# Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide



## LEVESQUE

*UPDATE!!! Anthem D2v NOW SHIPPING.* News By Bob Pariseau:


''The Anthem Statement D2v is shipping now (confirmed). The Anthem AVM 50v is supposed to ship this coming week. [NOTE: Anthem originally referred to these two units as the "D2 v.2" and "AVM 50 v.2".]


The original Statement D2, AVM 50, and quite possibly the AVM 40, may be discontinued soon if that hasn't already happened. Upgrades to the D2v or AVM 50v for owners of the original units should be available soon (my guess would be February for the D2 -> D2v upgrade). Upgrade pricing is not confirmed yet. Either upgrade will require shipping the unit to the Anthem factory in Canada.


HDMI is V1.3c -- some folks may care about the particular V1.3 level

Speaker Xover is "Pair"

Surround Mode is BOTH PLIIx and THX (the additional THX stuff is user selectable -- you don't seem to have an option for that)


Pricing is a little confusing right now as Anthem seems to be offering a reduced "introductory" price at the moment. It appears the US MSRP for the D2v is $7499 at the moment. The AVM 50v pricing is not confirmed yet but will likely remain $2K less than the D2v pricing. The price includes Anthem ARC-1 (room correction) bundled with either the D2v or the AVM 50v.


LPCM audio: for both of these units it is up to 7.1 channels at up to 192KHz/24bit. [NOTE however that ANALOG multi-channel audio input remains 5.1 on both units.]


In addition, Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD bitstream decoding are in both units now via HDMI 1.3c. Anthem has announced that "Dolby Volume" will be added as a free software upgrade for both units (user installable) -- no ETA announced.


Video is up to HDMI 1080p/60 (with 1080p/24 support) including HDMI V1.3 "Deep Color" and full video processing. Video processing is 12 bits per component (36 bits per pixel) end to end using the latest VXP chip from Sigma Designs. The two HDMI video outputs run in "parallel" -- i.e., they are both live at the same time, but they can not be set to carry different video signals. It is not clear yet whether that restriction may be relaxed in future firmware.''



Anthem support. Fast and really efficient:
[email protected] 


Anthem D2v2 announcement:

http://www.castercomm.com/prView.cfm?cid=111&id=208 


And the new Sigma scaler (Sigma bought Gennum...):

http://www.reuters.com/article/press...008+BW20080414 

*8 HDMI 1.3c IN and 2 OUT*!!!!! No need for an external HDMI switcher anymore!




















Here's a compilation of links to find specific informations faster in this mega-thread on the D2!


--------------------------------------------------------

*PANIC ROOM!*


* *Should I panic since the D2/AVM50 are NOT HDMI 1.3?* :


Not anymore!!!









*The D2/AVM50 will both be upgradable (hardware upgrade) to do the D2v, so they will be HDMI 1.3c, 7.1, and will support decoding of DD TrueHD, DTS HD and DTS-HD Master*


--------------------------------------------------------

*FIRMWARE and INSTALLING NEW FIRMWARE*


* Belt & suspenders approach to doing the update from Bob Pariseau
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post10645127 


* Disconnect HDMI sources and display PRIOR to installing an upgrade!
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9277613 


* Some extra steps to make sure your settings remain good
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9543881 


--------------------------------------------------------

*SETUP -- SOME BASIC, SOME ADVANCED*


How to adjust Phase and Polarity for your subwoofer(s)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post13997761 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post15831964 



* How to get the best from your video setup (video calibration for non-ISF techs)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9277613 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9564825 


* Lossless HDMI audio for folks without HDMI displays
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9805765 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9808465 


* Max resolution/frame rate for processed HDMI or Component video
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9683898 


* My video is "shocking pink"!
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9610862 


* Using AUTO DIG to get more than one device on the same input
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9564730 


* What if my 1080p display only accepts up to 1080i input?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9286645 


--------------------------------------------------------

*ANTHEM ROOM CORRECTION (ARC-1) : AUDIO BLISS IN A FEW, EASY STEPS*

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14142274 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14160614 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14165296 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14181449 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14192486 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14207104 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14207158 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14207663 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14214469 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14216213 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14220432 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14232090 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14236866 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14256232 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14262027 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14267952 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14268617 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14286844 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14287488 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14296873 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14306824 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14320989 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14322061 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14327449 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14335277 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14347781 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14351330 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14353551 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14363180 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14365808 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14366806 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14370256 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14372958 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14377508 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14379882 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14380719 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14383015 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14384710 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14391953 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14393593 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14393664 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14394305 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14395567 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14396801 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14407572 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14413014 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14415277 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14420677 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14422227 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14424204 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14424251 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14424733 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14429013 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14430627 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14436325 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14439704 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14439977 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14440383 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14448571 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14451192 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14458172 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14459485 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14461019 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14462796 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14469019 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14477302 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14484075 


--------------------------------------------------------

*THINGS YOU CAN DO WHILE WATCHING/LISTENING*


* Why can't I get to the audio processing mode I want?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9627851 


*Making SDTV Programs Fill a 16:9 Screen Without Distortion
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post10864623 


* Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9587424 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9652415 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9660854 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9672930 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=10203 


* What's with this Frame Lock stuff?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9556938 


--------------------------------------------------------

*TERMINOLOGY AND TECHNOLOGY*


* Color Space
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9731538 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9738172 


* Data Format (YCbCr 4:4:4, etc.)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=14288 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9442585 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9443139 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9445345 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9306459 


* Frame Rates and Custom Resolutions
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9211974 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9276351 


--------------------------------------------------------

*SOURCE DEVICE SPECIFIC SETTINGS*


* Scientific Atlanta DVR
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9557247 


* Oppo 970 for SACD or DVD-Audio over HDMI
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9388249 


--------------------------------------------------------

*DISPLAY SPECIFIC SETTINGS*


* Custom Resolution for a 1366x768 Panasonic display
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9081443 


* How to output 1080p48 to Sony Ruby with Live Video Settings Editor
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9221154 


* Custom /24Hz Resolution for a Sony Pearl
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9256440 


* What if your display won't accept it's "native" resolution as input?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9795082 


--------------------------------------------------------

*SOUND SPECIFIC SETTINGS*


* How to set the D2 with the Velodyne DD15 subwoofer
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post8872147 


* How well does the Room Resonance Filter work? What does it do, and what affect does it have?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post10516640 


==================================



Latest review by Kris Deering (august 2006) of the Anthem D2:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...006-page1.html 


And my review:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...D2_Reviews.pdf 


For those searching for *Kris Deering's benchmark* of the video section of the D2 at Secrets, you can access it directly here:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-b.../V%20Processor 


Anthem's page for the Statement D2:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/Products/D2/D2.html


----------



## vinodk

Looks like I am the viewer # 1. D2 looks good. Now I can't wait for my AVM30 upgrade.


----------



## Buckeyefan

Am I correct in assuming the D2 supports Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD, and DTS-HD, or will this be a system upgrade when the time comes?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Buckeyefan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Am I correct in assuming the D2 supports Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD, and DTS-HD, or will this be a system upgrade when the time comes?



If the player can read the disc, decode it, and send it as PCM, the receiving end doesn't care what it started out as.


The D2 support up to 8 channels of 192KHz/24bit digital audio over HDMI 1.1


----------



## JohnGZ28

Thanks for starting a thread as an actual owner. Keep the info coming this is some good stuff.


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## rsbeck

great pics.


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## ManWithAPlan

Just wanted to second Levesque's thoughts on the D2. I have owned mine for about 1 month or so (Beta tester), and this product is worth every penny I spent. I love the damn thing. My only complaint is that I am 1 input short of what I need to handle all my equipment. Just wish there was 1 more there for me.


That aside, in short, this thing rocks. The Gennum is incredible at cleaning up video, reducing artifacts, displaying the cleanest, crispest image I have yet seen on my Sony Qualia 006 set. I am sending 1080i out of the D2, and it looks great. Keep in mind something that Nick at Anthem taught me on this. The Gennum immediately deinterlaces and scales everything to 1080p, then from there adjusts it to meet whatever output one has chosen. So, when I feed the D2 480i from my DVD player over HDMI, it immediately performs inverse telecine true per-pixel deinterlacing, then scales the image to 1080p. The Gennum is always outputting a progressive signal, so Anthem included an interlacer in the D2 to allow for interlaced outputs when needed. So, the signal is interlaced then to 1080i, and sent to my Qualia over HDMI. The Qualia does its thing, converting it to 1080p for display.


Although the above sounds messy and circuitous, the picture is mindblowing. Short of Levesque's setup with the Ruby and the ability for 1080p the whole way, I have yet to see any picture this good.


It may help that I had UMR calibrate my display prior to getting the D2, so that helped as well. However, I didn't have the D2 for about 2 weeks after UMR calibrated, and the picture improved even that much more after inserting the D2 and taking advantage of the Gennum scaler.


So, for what it's worth, another viewpoint on the D2. I know I'll be enjoying this pre-pro for years to come!!


----------



## Ranger620

Got a dilemma here.


I am very interested (drooling even) over this Anthem D2. My question is... Would this be EXTREME overkill for my Paradigm Studio 100, CC-570, ADP-470, Servo-15, Denon DVD-3910 setup? Would I actually notice and improvement in SQ with this processor and a Statement 5 Channel amp over my current Pioneer Elite 74TXVi?


Please post as many thoughts and opinions on this as possible. You guys could help make it easier for me to part with my pennies.


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## rcgustafson

Hey, would this thing improve the pq on my vintage Zenith 20" tv?


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## Ted W

Yes, please, owners, some thoughts on sound quality.


Levesque, can you explain a bit about the "HDMI repeater option"? Will this allow me to switch my cable box in and out (go to DVD from cable and back if I want) without losing the handshake, as I now do? I guess the question is, is the D2 more of an "active" switcher, for lack of a better word?


I've been waiting for this thing for a long time. I mean, look how long that thread was. A lot of hotly-anticipated/recently released products seemed to have come up short. Glad to know that Anthem delivered the goods.


----------



## Dale Adams

Very cool. Thanks for the early report.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It can do 1080i inverse telecine and true per-pixel motion adaptive de-interlacing of 480i/1080i. It's not performing any Bob/weave like the Sil504 and Farouddja chip.



Both of those chips do inverse telecine and true per-pixel motion-adaptive deinterlacing. (They don't do a simple 'bob' deinterlacing.) They just don't do it for 1080i, only for 480i and 576i.


Question: Does the D2 accept a PAL or 576i input?



> Quote:
> One really cool aspect of the D2 is that the Gennum chip is fully upgradable with a simple firmware download from Anthem web site. So if we ever need new resolutions and timings for the upcomnig HD-DVD and Blu-Ray players, then we will just download a firmware upgrade to enable them. Also, if we need new features, aspect ratio controls, memory banks, test patterns, etc, we will be able to obtain them and install them later down the road with a simple firmware download.



So in other words, it's just like most video processors on the market today.







That's a big step forward for an A/V prepro. All the ones I've seen to date have been very limited in the video processing department.


- Dale Adams


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dale Adams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Both of those chips do inverse telecine and true per-pixel motion-adaptive deinterlacing. (They don't do a simple 'bob' deinterlacing.) They just don't do it for 1080i, only for 480i and 576i.



Thank you Dale for the precision. It was late and I was writing too fast. That's what I meant. I will edit my post.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dale Adams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question: Does the D2 accept a PAL or 576i input?



I'm not sure for now. But since they want to reach the european market, I would think so. I will ask Nick monday morning. But I think it does.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dale Adams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's a big step forward for an A/V prepro. All the ones I've seen to date have been very limited in the video processing department.



Coming from you, it really means something! It is definitely a bold step forward for a pre/pro manufacturer. This kind of video processing in a receiver or pre/pro is rather unique on the market right now.


----------



## goenkar

Levesque,


Thanks for your info. I ordered an AVM-50 myself in Feb and am anxiously awaiting its arrival.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ted W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque, can you explain a bit about the "HDMI repeater option"?



The D2 give you the option to put the HDMI repeater "off" for a particular input, so this particular source will think it's talking to a display directly, and not to a "repeater".


There is some satellite and cable STB that expect a repeater or a display to talk to and will give a black screen if they don't "find" the good thing at the end.


That's what I understood.


----------



## matted

Levesque: Thanks for the great info and pics! I'm sure you had a hell of a time sitting on those for the past little while










I'm just curious as to how the D2 behaves in some respects... These are things that are hard to put into spec sheets, and are only apparent if you use the product.


First, once the D2 and your display are fired up, and the display handshakes and syncs, will the display EVER have to re-sync so long as the D2 stays on, no matter what you pump into the D2? Also, how fast is the D2 with syncing different video types from the same source? For example, with my current display, when being fed from my cable box (it's set to pass through), when flipping through HD channels, if the channel is a different format than the last (i.e. flipping from a 1080i channel to a 720p channel) there's the normal slight delay for the MPEG decoders to catch up, then my TV will take a moment to re-sync and start displaying. I'm just curious, how quickly does the D2 deal with such format changes and re-sync?


Thanks again!


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matted* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> First, once the D2 and your display are fired up, and the display handshakes and syncs, will the display EVER have to re-sync so long as the D2 stays on, no matter what you pump into the D2?



Each time you switch from one input to another, you have a 1 or 2 seconds delay before you get a picture.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matted* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also, how fast is the D2 with syncing different video types from the same source? For example, with my current display, when being fed from my cable box (it's set to pass through), when flipping through HD channels, if the channel is a different format than the last (i.e. flipping from a 1080i channel to a 720p channel) there's the normal slight delay for the MPEG decoders to catch up, then my TV will take a moment to re-sync and start displaying. I'm just curious, how quickly does the D2 deal with such format changes and re-sync?




Same thing with the D2. With my satellite STB, when I switch from a 480i SD channel to a 1080i channel there is a 1-2 seconds delay before you have a picture back.


----------



## MStanic

Somehow, the release of this product has lost it's appeal to me. I'm not even sure if changing over from my D1 is worthwhile for me. Maybe, it just took too long for this thing to come out. It's not even on Anthem's web site? Just a really weird rollout of a product from a timeframe and marketing perspective.


----------



## anthonymoody




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 give you the option to put the HDMI repeater "off" for a particular input, so this particular source will think it's talking to a display directly, and not to a "repeater".
> 
> 
> There is some satellite and cable STB that expect a repeater or a display to talk to and will give a black screen if they don't "find" the good thing at the end.
> 
> 
> That's what I understood.




If used in this way with a given input, does the scaler still function with that input or is the signal just passed through?


TM


----------



## yatchaks

Does the OSD work through HDMI?


----------



## tonydeluce

I have been thinking about an AVM 40 but after reading this thread, I may decide upon the AVM 50.


Is there a way to bypass the scaler on the D2? If I feed the D2 1080p24

( assuming BluRay DVD eos this ) will it output unprocessed 1080p24?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does the OSD work through HDMI?



Yes. On the main screen, at any resolutions. Even in HD, you have full access to the D2 menus and the OSD over HDMI.



Just to make it clear for everyone. I'n not working for or with Anthem. I'm just a D2 owner. So I don't have the answer to every questions. For technical questions, you should contact Nick at Anthem. Or wait until some other D2 owners come here, and if they know some answers, they will post them.


This thread is for D1/D2 owners. Tweaks and tricks, configurations, settings, etc...


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This thread is for D1/D2 owners. Tweaks and tricks, configurations, settings, etc...



It's not labeled as such.. it just says "Official Thread."







So I think that's why you are getting all of the discussion.....




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tonydeluce* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a way to bypass the scaler on the D2? If I feed the D2 1080p24
> 
> ( assuming BluRay DVD eos this ) will it output unprocessed 1080p24?



According to the D2 manual, it will do 1080p 24/25/30/50/60..


If I understand it correctly, the unit has a bypass mode (when using the D2 for switching only), and it states that for both Component and HDMI that the max res is 1080p. If you are scaling, the max input for Component is 1080i, 1080p for HDMI.


----------



## thebishman

Levesque,

The video processor sounds incredible. With all of this 'video horsepower', do you notice any A/V lag? Does the D2 have per input audio delay to counteract any A/V delay that may be present? Lastly, what do you think of the musical/sound reproduction? Bright/Forward, or Warm and slightly 'laid-back'. Any further thoughts very much appreciated.

Bish


----------



## matted




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebishman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lastly, what do you think of the musical/sound reproduction? Bright/Forward, or Warm and slightly 'laid-back'. Any further thoughts very much appreciated.
> 
> Bish



From what I understand, the D2 is solely a video upgrade, and the audio section of the D1 went unchanged. I'm sure you can do some forum searches and find loads on how people (including Levesque) found the D1 sounded.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

I'll try and chip in and answer some of these questions. I have had the D2 for about a month, and love it. So, yes, you can choose to bypass the video processor on a per-input basis. So, if I don't want my D2 scaling the video from my XBOX 360, I can set it that way.


As for the audio quality, I made quite a big change recently with my "Plan". I went from being solely an audiophile, using 2-channel exlusively, and being a lifelong music nut, that's how life was for me. I loved my Creek Audio amp and pre-amp, and I played CD's and listened to music. Then, about a year ago, something changed in me! I grew fangs, and started appreciating good quality home theater. I started my research, and made a decision to change everything over to a 5-channel surround sound setup, with a full home theater, high rez multichannel audio/video, blah blah blah. So, my project is now 95% complete, as I have the D2 controlling 3 zones in the house independently, all controlled via MX950 RF remotes, etc. etc.


As for the questions about audio quality...


What I will say is that as detailed and warm as my Creek amps were over the years for 2-channel (still my main passion), I have found the D2 to be its equal, and in some cases, specifically with jazz and orchestras for some reason, I find it presents a bigger soundstage. Oh, and of course, the newfound movie freak in me absolutely eats up this 5.1 channel DTS stuff with a spoon!!!


I'll try to post more details as I think of them (or as people ask), so that Levesque isn't the only one strapped with all these (very good) questions.


-ManWithAPlan


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebishman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque,
> 
> The video processor sounds incredible. With all of this 'video horsepower', do you notice any A/V lag? Does the D2 have per input audio delay to counteract any A/V delay that may be present? Lastly, what do you think of the musical/sound reproduction? Bright/Forward, or Warm and slightly 'laid-back'. Any further thoughts very much appreciated.
> 
> Bish



The D2, like the D1 before it, has Lip Sync Delay, with independent settings per input. So, for those of us with our beloved Tivo's, which sometimes suffer from out of sync audio, we can get audio/video together in perfect harmony again


----------



## tonydeluce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's not labeled as such.. it just says "Official Thread."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I think that's why you are getting all of the discussion.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to the D2 manual, it will do 1080p 24/25/30/50/60..
> 
> 
> If I understand it correctly, the unit has a bypass mode (when using the D2 for switching only), and it states that for both Component and HDMI that the max res is 1080p. If you are scaling, the max input for Component is 1080i, 1080p for HDMI.



Thanks! I will be using HDMI exclusively...


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's not labeled as such.. it just says "Official Thread."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I think that's why you are getting all of the discussion.....



Yeah, you are right. I just ask Alan Gouger to change the title of the thread to "tweak guide" instead, and remove the "official" in there...


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Tony,


What's cool, and you may already know this, but I still find it very cool, is that the D2 will accept a Component input for instance, scale it and everything, and output it as HDMI if needed. This was a lifesaver for me, because I have a 20 foot-run of HDMI Kimber Kable as the sole connection from my D2 to my Qualia. However, many of my inputs are Component, like my HD Tivo, my XBOX 360, etc.


The HDMI switcher is great to have too. At first I thought there would be no way I would ever need 4 inputs, but I'm using 2 already, and I'm sure more in the future.


----------



## tonydeluce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah, you are right. I just ask Alan Gouger to change the title of the thread to "tweak guide" instead, and remove the "official" in there...




Since this hasn't been much of a "tweak guide" you might just want to open

up a different thread and report your initial posts and keep this thread going

the way it is...


----------



## tonydeluce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tony,
> 
> 
> What's cool, and you may already know this, but I still find it very cool, is that the D2 will accept a Component input for instance, scale it and everything, and output it as HDMI if needed. This was a lifesaver for me, because I have a 20 foot-run of HDMI Kimber Kable as the sole connection from my D2 to my Qualia. However, many of my inputs are Component, like my HD Tivo, my XBOX 360, etc.
> 
> 
> The HDMI switcher is great to have too. At first I thought there would be no way I would ever need 4 inputs, but I'm using 2 already, and I'm sure more in the future.




Yea, that is pretty cool but I probably won't have more than two DVD players

and a set top box at a time. With 4 HDMI inputs, I would even have room for

a PS3


----------



## overcast

Wow....this may be EXACTLY what I need. I've been looking to get a new Anthem surround processor as well as an external scaler. Any idea on the price of one of these beauties?


----------



## gostan

$6700 US MSRP less whatever your authorized dealer will give you as a discount.


----------



## Colin Banfield

Hmmm. Seems like there's some neglect on the audio side:


1) No USB or Ethernet input for direct conection to media servers.

2) Any room correction?

3) Can DVD-A and SACD pass over HMDI 1.1? What happens when future versions of this interface are released?

4) No satellite radio option.


----------



## Bob Sorel




> Quote:
> $6700 US MSRP less whatever your authorized dealer will give you as a discount.



Ouch! I was ready to order one until I read that...


----------



## overcast




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> $6700 US MSRP less whatever your authorized dealer will give you as a discount.



Wow, they are charging a SERIOUS premium on these things.


----------



## tonydeluce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Sorel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ouch! I was ready to order one until I read that...



I am trying to understand the differences between the AVM 50 and the D2

since I believe the m.s.r.p. on the AVM 50 is $4700 and they seem to offer

the same video processing. I wonder if the audio quality is much different

between the two...


----------



## Alan Gouger

I use an anamorphic lens so I need something that allows custom aspect ratio.

Would this give me this feature. Also very important to me and many others. I wont touch it unless, does this have chroma delay adjustment.


Thank you. Looks interesting.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alan Gouger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I use an anamorphic lens so I need something that allows custom aspect ratio.
> 
> Would this give me this feature. Also very important to me and many others. I wont touch it unless, does this have chroma delay adjustment.
> 
> 
> Thank you. Looks interesting.



Yes, it allows for Custom Aspect Ratio's in addition to the obvious 4x3 and 16x9. And yes, it allows for unique Chroma Adjustments. Again, each of these settings, as with all the Gennum settings, are unique per input. So, the Chroma Adjustment for my VCR is different than the Chroma Adjustment for my DVD player, etc. etc.


Hope this helps.


----------



## Alan Gouger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, it allows for Custom Aspect Ratio's in addition to the obvious 4x3 and 16x9. And yes, it allows for unique Chroma Adjustments. Again, each of these settings, as with all the Gennum settings, are unique per input. So, the Chroma Adjustment for my VCR is different than the Chroma Adjustment for my DVD player, etc. etc.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.



This is sounding very good. I was going to buy the Lexicon but I may look into this instead.

One last question, how does the sharpness control work. Will it go into the minus to help with DVDs with that dreaded EE


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Colin Banfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm. Seems like there's some neglect on the audio side:
> 
> 
> 1) No USB or Ethernet input for direct conection to media servers.
> 
> 2) Any room correction?
> 
> 3) Can DVD-A and SACD pass over HMDI 1.1? What happens when future versions of this interface are released?
> 
> 4) No satellite radio option.



I certainly don't want to start a philosophic argument here, but I think you are expecting qualities you might find in a Receiver in the Anthem D2. The D2 is a Pre/Pro, and as such, it remains very agnostic when it comes to Audio and Video inputs. They leave it up to you to choose what sources you need. This is a design philosophy that is at the heart of the difference between a Receiver and a Pre/Pro.


But, I'll try to provide a use case below that might be relevant to you.


In my case, I have both a music server that I rely on extensively, and a Sirius satellite tuner. I connect both as input sources to my D2. I don't know any music server worth its salt that does not have RCA outputs at the least, and most have Digital Outs as well. I have an Olive Symphony, which has a built-in 4-port switch, which is VERY handy, as I network my Tivo and my XBOX 360 to the Symphony's switch in my audio rack. So, in my case, I send Digital Audio to the D2 from the Symphony, and let the D2's excellent DAC take care of it. This also allows me to use one of the two Digital Outs on the D2 for recording to CD or sending to a digital input on my PC (through a wall jack panel behind my audio rack), without converting to Analog and then back to Digital. The signal stays Digital the entire way. This is important for some of the recording I do.


As for HDMI 1.1 on the D2, yes it handles DVD-Audio signal over HDMI to the D2. HDMI 1.1 can handle up to 8 channels of hi-res audio. HDMI 1.1 does not allow for the sending of SACD signals over HDMI, so that is where you still need to utilize the D2's 6 channel analog input.


Lastly, as for Room Correction, Anthem is working on an upgrade to the D2 that will provide extensive Room Correction capability. This will become available as a software upgrade at a later date.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alan Gouger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One last question, how does the sharpness control work. Will it go into the minus to help with DVDs with that dreaded EE



Sadly, no. It would be useful with the Ruby tough... But knowing Anthem, you can simply ask them for this, and they will probably try to do it in the next firmware upgrade.


----------



## Ted W

Hey, ManWithAPlan... I have the Olive Musica. Haven't heard of other people that are hip to it. I have a few operational beefs with it, but overall I think it's pretty cool. How do you get digital audio into the D2 again?


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ted W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey, ManWithAPlan... I have the Olive Musica. Haven't heard of other people that are hip to it. I have a few operational beefs with it, but overall I think it's pretty cool. How do you get digital audio into the D2 again?



EXCELLENT!


Yeah, I absolutely love the Olive products. I run a Digital Out from the Symphony via Digital COAX to one of the Digital Inputs on the D2. If you try to maintain the highest audio quality possible for your music files, I HIGHLY recommend using a Digital Out from the Symphony. The sound was good before, but was noticably more dynamic when using a Digital Out, and letting the D2's DAC deal with it. I believe there is a Stereophile article on the Symphony that agrees with what my ears are telling me as well. They compared the RCA analog outs on it to the Digital, and came away with some telling measurements.


Now, I also have to run Analog outs from every source to the D2 as well (including from the Symphony), so that I can independently switch them in Zone 2 and Zone 3 and Rec Zone. If you are not using other zones with the D2, then this would not be necessary. Or, if you didn't care about *independently* switching sources in other zones and Rec, then you could just use the Copy function, which will Copy whatever source is active in Zone 1 to whatever other zones you need.


That's my very lengthy way of saying, yeah, the Olive thing kicks ass! Oh, and they are very Mac friendly, all former Mac developers, so that works well for me, as my entire digital music collection resides on a server running Mac OSX.


----------



## rogergraham




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To use the powerful Gennum chip, you need to send a 480i and 1080i signal to it. It's really important to understand that. If you use a 480p DVD-player, then you will only use the scaling abilities of the Gennum chip, but not the advanced de-interlacing algorithms.



I don't understand why that might be a problem? You're saying that if I input a progressive signal into the D2, then the Gennum chip's de-interlacing function cannot be used - but why does that matter, since the signal doesn't *need* to be deinterlaced (it only needs to be scaled).


Or does the Gennum chip do something fancy with the deinterlacing that a source most likely can't do??


Thanks for the review!


----------



## Ted W




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> EXCELLENT!
> 
> 
> I run a Digital Out from the Symphony via Digital COAX to one of the Digital Inputs on the D2.



Duh... of course. Stupid question.


----------



## LEVESQUE

I just edit my first post in this thread to include that part to clear some confusion about the D2:



"Some people don't realized that the D2 IS a D1 with a hardware upgrade. Anthem came out with the D1 2 years ago, and now are doing a hardware upgrade and call it a D2. So they move the customer along the HT curve... The D2 is fully ready for the upcoming HD-DVD and Blu-Ray players.


The hardware upgrade of the D1 will be around 1500$... 1500$ for a full-fledge Gennum VXP scaler is not that bad IMHO... And the D1 will now be exactly like a D2!


The Anthem AVM20 (pre/pro) came out in 2001 and was updated regularly via hardware and software upgrades, and will probably have at least the HDMI switching, and maybe the scaler also. So it will still be current after 5 years!


And the D1/D2 will both probably be able to become a "D3" when it will come out in 1 year or 2. So D1 owners will be good for another 4-5 years or more, with the cost of the upgrade only each time.


Not different then what DVDO or other scalers companies are doing..."


So if we need a new scaler with new technologies, or new resolutions, new timings, or anything to keep the D1/D2 current in 1 or 2 years, Anthem will just make another hardware upgrade. They just proved that they can do it with the D2, and particularly with the AVM20.


----------



## welwynnick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Buckeyefan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Am I correct in assuming the D2 supports Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD, and DTS-HD, or will this be a system upgrade when the time comes?



Unfortunately not. HDMI V1.1 supports CD, DVD and DVD-A. V1.2 adds DSD for SACD and V1.3 (once the spec is released) will support TrueHD and DTD-HD. Whether and how the D2 will support this upgrade would be interesting to determine.


Otherwise, what a great sounding product. I've been looking out for it for some months. While high-quality displays ought to have high-quality video processing, the reality is that they don't, and the D2 makes much more sense than upscaling DVD players or receivers with video switching and perhaps procesing added as an afterthought.


It sound like there aren't any user-configurable output resolutions, though. Lumagen, Crystalio and DVDO owners swear by them, so it will be interesting to hear how many different displays can be pixel-matched to the D2.


Nick


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *welwynnick* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Whether and how the D2 will support this upgrade would be interesting to determine.



Like I said, if the HD player can read the disc, decode it, and send it as PCM, the receiving end doesn't care what it started out as.


The D2 support up to 8 channels of 192KHz/24bit digital audio over HDMI 1.1


----------



## vinodk

Hi Levesque!

Do you have any timeframe for the upgrade process for D1 & AVM30?

Thanks.


----------



## fgbaloh

I am have currently ordered the avm 50 for my new home theater. could someone help me understand a couple things. the anthem website is useless as they don't even list their own new products yet alone describe them!


1. What is the main difference between the avm 50 and d2? in particular the video processing.


2. I also don't understand the whole 480i input from dvd. if the unit breaks down everything to 1080p and then sends out whatever i want why does it matter what comes in?


3. lastly why should i spend 2k over avm 50? this may be answered by question #1 but several of you felt it was worth the difference. why?


thanks in advance


frank


----------



## sharpie

I guess my question is how good is the noise reduction on HD material, particularly from cable. How does it compare to the Mesquito?


----------



## nethomas

How about those of us with a D1 and an HD ready monitor without HDMI? Is there any benifit to upgrading my D1 until I can get an HDMI input monitor? All I will have is component in. How about it Levesque?

NETHNOMAS


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nethomas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How about those of us with a D1 and an HD ready monitor without HDMI? Is there any benifit to upgrading my D1 until I can get an HDMI input monitor? All I will have is component in. How about it Levesque?
> 
> NETHNOMAS



I certainly believe it is worth it, regardless of whether you have an HDMI-compatible set. The D2's Gennum chip can provide processed video over either HDMI or Component Video. The Gennum chip will provide processing for any input that is Component, SVideo, or HDMI, with unique video settings per input.


In fact, if using HDMI for your Main Zone, you can choose to use Component output as well, and if you do, you have the choice of setting the Component out to be a copy of Zone 1, that is another processed output, or unprocessed, or a dedicated independent output for Zone 2. I have chosen to use it for that last option. The only thing I miss in Zone 2 is the OSD in that room. I don't get the OSD in Zone 2 because I'm using Component and not S-Video. For some reason, the only way you can have OSD in both Zones1 and Zone2 is if you use SVideo in Zone 2.


Of course, the OSD for the Main Zone is still awesome, and very informative. I'm just bein picky now


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fgbaloh* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 2. I also don't understand the whole 480i input from dvd. if the unit breaks down everything to 1080p and then sends out whatever i want why does it matter what comes in?
> 
> 
> thanks in advance
> 
> 
> frank



It's like picking which DAC to use when talking about audio. Getting 480i over HDMI from a DVD player is about as close to getting the raw data off of the disc as you can get. Doing this allows you to use the scaler to do the heavy lifting... If the scaler is better at doing the deinterlacing / scaling, all the better... there are only one or 2 DVD players that will do a 1080p output that will be close to what this scaler is capable of.. and those players are very expensive. I have a Denon 5910ci which feeds my Ruby 1080p.. but it might need to find a new home if I go down this route : )


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In fact, if using HDMI for your Main Zone, you can choose to use Component output as well, and if you do, you have the choice of setting the Component out to be a copy of Zone 1, that is another processed output, or unprocessed, or a dedicated independent output for Zone 2. I have chosen to use it for that last option. The only thing I miss in Zone 2 is the OSD in that room. I don't get the OSD in Zone 2 because I'm using Component and not S-Video. For some reason, the only way you can have OSD in both Zones1 and Zone2 is if you use SVideo in Zone 2.



Is the above true even if you are using an HDMI source? If so they are violating HDCP unless they only output 480P over component. Not that this wouldn't be a very desirable feature


----------



## shah993

This is my first post here.I just got the D2!!.I have not yet set it up.I guess I am a little bit intimidated by the whole thing.I am glad there a forum where I can learn.I bought mine in Montreal QC but live in the States.Frank at Codell Audio did show me the basics but once I started reading the manual I am getting nervous about setting this thing up!I am going to be using an Optoma H 79 and a 110"screen.I have Martin Logans for speakers and was wondering if anybody has tried the D1/D2 with electrostatics and if there are any special settings.Once it is setup I will have a lot of naive questions and will appreciate all the help I can get.


----------



## LEVESQUE

Shah993


Congrats! Don't hesitate to ask your questions in here. The Gennum scaler can be intimidating for someone that never used an external scaler before.


The first thing to do is to configure the D2 menus first, particularly the output menu, and then the Gennum menus after.


The native resolution of your projector is 720p, so you should output 720p/60, HDTV colorspace and YCbCr 4:2:2 if you use an HDMI to HDMI cable with the H79. If you want to try 1080p just for fun, I'm not sure what timings the H79 will be able to take. You should check your user manual first then.


You also have a source set-up menu. If any of your sources is not fully HDCP compliant and buggy, just try the option HDMI repeater "OFF".


If you encounter any problem, like a black screen, just plug a second monitor (like a small TV, or a small LCD screen) with the main S-video out from the D2 to it. If the small display doesn't have a S-video input, then just buy a small s-video to composite video adapter for 5$. That way, you will be able to access the menus even if your projector can't display them at first.


----------



## shah993

Levesque,

Merci!!


----------



## Oscilated

I purchased a D2 knowing that in the future I would own an HDTV. As such, my 32" Sony SDTV is a bit limited with having only 1 component input. So, I decided to use the D2 as my video switcher and allow it to do the video stuff from my over-the-air antenna/reciever. Sounded logical. Use the Gennum to input HDTV from the antenna, and output 480i to my TV. Unfortunately, wheather I use my OTA reciever, satellite box, or DVD, the picture is noticably WORSE on the Main 1 Processed output (component). The picture is essentually the same (same as the source would be if directly connected to the TV) if I use the Zone 2 UNPROCESSED output (again, component).


Those with a D2, and especially those who know more about this scaler stuff, could you please experiment with the output of the D2 with a SDTV? I can only hope I'm doing this wrong.


Before you ask...


Yes, I setup the D2 for 480i/60hz output.

Yes, I setup the D2 for Component output preference.

Yes, I'm using "high quality" (~$150) cables.


I've not yet emailed Anthem with the hopes we can figure this out ourselves and give Anthem more time to deal with bigger problems.


-Oscilated


----------



## Spizz




> Quote:
> So each source has is own settings: contrast, brightness, tint and colors, but also CUE filtering, film mode on/off, noise reduction, cropping, total control over aspect ratios, tests patterns, and alot more options I'm forgetting.



Love this feature. Well done Anthem with the Scaler feature. I hope come September when Denon announce their new AVR-5807 that is has some of these scaling abilities.


LEVESQUE- As a Denon owner myself with a Denon DVD-A1XV (aka DVD-5910) would the Denon outputting 1080P using its HQV chip or a Pioneer outputting 480i thorough the Anthem upconverting to 1080P be better to use with the Sony Ruby or 1080P DLP projector etc?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spizz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LEVESQUE- As a Denon owner myself with a Denon DVD-A1XV (aka DVD-5910) would the Denon outputting 1080P using its HQV chip or a Pioneer outputting 480i thorough the Anthem upconverting to 1080P be better to use with the Sony Ruby or 1080P DLP projector etc?



Tough question. The Realta HQV and Gennum VXP both have strong and weak points IMHO. Kris Deering has both a D2 and a 5910 and would probably be the best person to answer your question. You should ask him directly.


I think the best solution will be to keep the 5910, and use the upcoming Oppo 970H to pass 480i over HDMI (will probably sell for around 200$). So you would still have the 5910 to use the Realta (for things you prefer it with) and for audio, and the Oppo when you want to use the Gennum chip (for those things you prefer it with). With the D2 and Gennum, you will also be able to process and scale ALL your other sources (XBox 360, PS3, PS2, VHS, LD, Satellite SD and HD, etc).


Best of both worlds!










And i forgot. What are you outputting with the 5910? 1080p60? Something else? Then if you prefer using 1080p24 or any other timings to avoid judder or for any other reasons, you then need a scaler to do this. The D2 will do it.


----------



## welwynnick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spizz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LEVESQUE- As a Denon owner myself with a Denon DVD-A1XV (aka DVD-5910) would the Denon outputting 1080P using its HQV chip or a Pioneer outputting 480i thorough the Anthem upconverting to 1080P be better to use with the Sony Ruby or 1080P DLP projector etc?



The Denon doesn't use the HQV processor for scaling (only de-interlacing). It uses an ABT processor for scaling, so the D2 may perform better given a 480i digital source. No guarantees, though; I'd wait to hear from someone like Kris Deering first.


Nick


----------



## bjgrounds

My Denon 3910 can output 1080i, will I get the deinterlacing from the genum chip?


----------



## bjgrounds

There is alot of choices and options here, and people that never used an external scaler before will be a little bit lost and confused with all the terms. For exemple. You really need to know the signal type you need to output before starting to use the D2. So YCbCr 4:2:2 or 4:4:4, RGB or Extented RGB, the color space of your display (SDTV or HDTV), the ouput resolution of the scaler (and if you know it, you definitely want to output a 1:1 signal matching your diplay native resolution). etc. And I really hope that new owners will come ask any questions here... but only after asking Nick at Anthem first...


Where can I find this information? If anyone has a Samsung HL-R6178W and know, please let me know. Thx.


----------



## Michael Grant




> Quote:
> My Denon 3910 can output 1080i, will I get the deinterlacing from the genum chip?



No. The Denon will be doing the deinterlacing of the 480i DVD content. To scale from one resolution to another, you have to deinterlace first. So, 480i->1080i actually looks like this: 480i->480p->1080p->1080i (though the last two stages can be combined to save processing).


So the Denon will do the real deinterlacing, and you'll actually be forcing the Gennum to do an _extra_ deinterlace step to take that 1080i output and convert it to your display resolution.


Ideally, you want to feed the D2 the native 480i 4:2:2 YCbCr signal, or you'll want to let the 3910 scale to your display resolution, and just let the D2 pass it through.


----------



## bjgrounds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael Grant* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No. The Denon will be doing the deinterlacing of the 480i DVD content. To scale from one resolution to another, you have to deinterlace first. So, 480i->1080i actually looks like this: 480i->480p->1080p->1080i (though the last two stages can be combined to save processing).
> 
> 
> So the Denon will do the real deinterlacing, and you'll actually be forcing the Gennum to do an _extra_ deinterlace step to take that 1080i output and convert it to your display resolution.
> 
> 
> Ideally, you want to feed the D2 the native 480i 4:2:2 YCbCr signal, or you'll want to let the 3910 scale to your display resolution, and just let the D2 pass it through.



So, what should I send to the D2, the options are; 480p, 720p, or 1080i? I believe my TV listed above can output 1080i, really 1080p but won't accept it through HDMI.


Thanks for your help....


----------



## Michael Grant

Hmm... honest truth? I'd try all three and see what you prefer. I know that's not satisfying but unfortunately, the two "ideal" choices are 480i and your display resolution, which aren't covered in your list (I assume). And of the choices that are left (480p/720p/1080i) they're in a tight race for second.


----------



## Keenan

bjgrounds, you could also try a component 480i feed from the Denon to feed the D2.


----------



## bjgrounds

Ok , I found out that the native resolution of my display is 1080p. Does that make a difference as to what I want to send to it? Also what resolution would I want to send from the D2 to the display?


----------



## Keenan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bjgrounds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok , I found out that the native resolution of my display is 1080p. Does that make a difference as to what I want to send to it? Also what resolution would I want to send from the D2 to the display?



It boils down to what component will do the best job at deinterlacing and scaling. Logically, given the components involved, I would send a 480i signal to the D2, deinterlace and scale to 720p and send it to the display device. _You should try other scenarios_ as one of the other setups _may_ look better.


----------



## LEVESQUE

I just put a new screenshots in the first post of this thread. It's an eye-shot from the film King Kong on a regular DVD at 480i. Not in HD, but still pretty decent.


Pio Elite 79AVi at 480i over HDMi to D2, then out at 1080p to Sony Ruby. On a 110" dia. So the image was 8' wide in reality.


There is some noise in the blacks, but it was introduced by my camera. It was not like that in the original image on the screen. Cheap camera...


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *keenan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It boils down to what component will do the best job at deinterlacing and scaling. Logically, given the components involved, I would send a 480i signal to the D2, deinterlace and scale to 720p and send it to the display device. _You should try other scenarios_ as one of the other setups _may_ look better.



So, it would appear that in order to take full advantage of the internal interlacing abilities of the D2 that a 480i DVD player is a must.


----------



## dsmith901

Am I correct in assuming the D2 will list for $7,500?


----------



## Keenan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, it would appear that in order to take full advantage of the internal interlacing abilities of the D2 that a 480i DVD player is a must.



For all intents and purposes, yes, although other scenarios could, and should, be tried to see what looks best, but, a 480i signal will usually be the best input signal.


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsmith901* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Am I correct in assuming the D2 will list for $7,500?



MSRP on D2 is $6700 U.S.


----------



## nkb

I am about to place my order. My dealer says that he can deliver the AVM-50 now. He refers to it as an upgraded/rebadged D1. But, what will I be missing compared to the D2?


----------



## mbkintner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am about to place my order. My dealer says that he can deliver the AVM-50 now. He refers to it as an upgraded/rebadged D1. But, what will I be missing compared to the D2?



Find another dealer. The AVM-50 evolved from the AVM-30, which evolved from the AVM-20. The D1 was upgraded to the D2.


Seriously, consider calling them out before doing business because either you misunderstood or they're full of it.


Mike


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> _Originally Posted by nkb_
> 
> I am about to place my order. My dealer says that he can deliver the AVM-50 now. He refers to it as an upgraded/rebadged D1. But, what will I be missing compared to the D2?



nkb,


mkbintner is correct that the Athem D1/D2 and AVM20/30/40/50 are different lines of products. The Anthem web site is not updated yet for the newest models coming out, but you can get a pretty good idea of the audio differences between the D2 and AVM50 by comparing the features of the D1 and the AVM30.


You can be sure that the D1/D2 have better audio potential than the AVM products, but how MUCH better and is it worth it to you? That can only be answered by a personal listening session and your accountant!


----------



## fgbaloh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> nkb,
> 
> 
> mkbintner is correct that the Athem D1/D2 and AVM20/30/40/50 are different lines of products. The Anthem web site is not updated yet for the newest models coming out, but you can get a pretty good idea of the audio differences between the D2 and AVM50 by comparing the features of the D1 and the AVM30.
> 
> 
> You can be sure that the D1/D2 have better audio potential than the AVM products, but how MUCH better and is it worth it to you? That can only be answered by a personal listening session and your accountant!




I am also awaiting the avm 50 with questions about d2. are you saying video processing is the same but audio is the difference?


frank


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> I am also awaiting the avm 50 with questions about d2. are you saying video processing is the same but audio is the difference?
> 
> 
> frank



Yes, I believe that is correct. The _main_ (but not only) audio component differences in the D1/D2 Statement line compared to the AVM line are the 24 bit / 192 kHz upsampling for all eight channels, dual Motorola DSP engines, and more memory.


----------



## gostan

Just curious. This may be a dumb question, but will the internal Gennum scaler in the D2 provide any PQ benefits to SD Satellite TV transmissions?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just curious. This may be a dumb question, but will the internal Gennum scaler in the D2 provide any PQ benefits to SD Satellite TV transmissions?



Yes. There is a noise reduction feature that is really useful with SD channels. I'm sending a 480i signal from my satelllite STB and let the Gennum do the job instead of the cheap thing in my STB.


With native 1080i broadcast, the Gennum is doing a really nice job. The picture is sharper, and there is less noise then going from the STB directly to the projector. Big improvement for HD, but SD is... SD, so if the signal is bad and noisy, then the Gennum can't do alot of things with that...


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally posted by LEVESQUE
> 
> With native 1080i broadcast, the Gennum is doing a really nice job. The picture is sharper, and there is less noise then going from the STB directly to the projector. Big improvement for HD, but SD is... SD, so if the signal is bad and noisy, then the Gennum can't do alot of things with that...



So perhaps the Gennum will sharpen up the infamous "soft" HD picture from my HD-Tivo (HR10-250)???


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So perhaps the Gennum will sharpen up the infamous "soft" HD picture from my HD-Tivo (HR10-250)???



mlbrand,


I'm fascinated by this comment. Tell me more about this. I have the very same DirecTivo HR10-250, and I notice the picture is very "soft" but only if I output 480i from the Tivo for an HD channel (silly anyway though right!). If I use any other output setting on the Tivo for HD, for instance, 720p or 1080i, then let the D2 w/ Gennum process the signal, the picture is amazingly crisp. Colors lock right into place, it's unreal. That's even with DirecTV's notorious compressing of their HD channels. Now, that very same Tivo is also being used with an OTA HD antenna for the HD locals, and you talk about clarity, the picture is so insanely clear you could eat it with a spoon. A simple OTA HD network show like West Wing suddenly becomes a work of art.


----------



## dsmith901




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> MSRP on D2 is $6700 U.S.



Thanks, and what is the MSRP on the AVM50? Can the AVM20/30 be upgraded to add the AVM50 video processing? If so, what will that cost?


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ManWithAPlan,_
> 
> I'm fascinated by this comment. Tell me more about this. I have the very same DirecTivo HR10-250, and I notice the picture is very "soft" but only if I output 480i from the Tivo for an HD channel (silly anyway though right!). If I use any other output setting on the Tivo for HD, for instance, 720p or 1080i, then let the D2 w/ Gennum process the signal, the picture is amazingly crisp. Colors lock right into place, it's unreal. That's even with DirecTV's notorious compressing of their HD channels. Now, that very same Tivo is also being used with an OTA HD antenna for the HD locals, and you talk about clarity, the picture is so insanely clear you could eat it with a spoon. A simple OTA HD network show like West Wing suddenly becomes a work of art.



I went from a stunningly good HD picture from my Zenith DTV-1080 DirecTV sat. receiver, to the slightly fuzzy (1080i satellite) picture quality of the HR10-250 last fall. I don't have OTA HD in my area, so I can't comment on that. Don't get me wrong, the HR10 still has a very good picture, but not what I was used to. I said "infamous" in my earlier post because the slightly degraded PQ of the HR10 is well documented by other users I have chatted with.


I still have the Zenith stored up in the attic, but the TIVO function of the HR10 is worth the slight sacrifice in PQ. I sometimes think about paying another $5/month and hooking up the Zenith alongside the HR10, but can't quite justify it.


THAT is why I am hoping the D2/Gennum will sharpen things up a bit, and from your post it sounds like it will. That's good news!


----------



## Bob Sorel

Here is something I commented on in another thread, and I was hoping that maybe one of you could clarify this for me:


> Quote:
> The biggest fault I can see with the D2 currently is that is only has 10 input configurations available - and of those 10, one is dedicated to AM/FM, one is for balanced analog 2 channel, and one is for 5.1 analog, leaving only 7 that are completely configurable. I use 11 configurations on my MC-12, so the D2 comes up short for my needs. Anthem should learn something from Lexicon and use the "patch bay" approach to input configurations. That is, ANY video input can be assigned to ANY audio input, and the same inputs can be used more than once. The Lex has 12 input configs available, and all 12 of them are completely programmable and assignable, allowing me to create configurations based on my needs, not by preconceived notions of what some guy somewhere thinks I should need. I could probably get by with the D2's 10 configs if 3 of them were not "hard wired" and I were allowed to program them as I wish (maybe they are configurable, but the manual seemed to indicate otherwise).



Am I correct in thinking that there are only 10 input configurations available, and are three of them really "hard wired"?


> Quote:
> Hmm... honest truth? I'd try all three and see what you prefer. I know that's not satisfying but unfortunately, the two "ideal" choices are 480i and your display resolution, which aren't covered in your list (I assume). And of the choices that are left (480p/720p/1080i) they're in a tight race for second.



Michael, until the new Oppo 970H is released, would 480i over component be preferable to 480p/720p/1080i over HDMI?


I'm seriously considering the D2 to replace my Lex MC-12/Vantage-HD combo, but I'm nervous about not having enough flexibility to meet my needs. I'm also concerned about further development of the Gennum scaler feature set. "Thinking about it" is a long way off from total commitment to further development.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Sorel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is something I commented on in another thread, and I was hoping that maybe one of you could clarify this for me:
> 
> 
> Am I correct in thinking that there are only 10 input configurations available, and are three of them really "hard wired"?
> 
> 
> Michael, until the new Oppo 970H is released, would 480i over component be preferable to 480p/720p/1080i over HDMI?
> 
> 
> I'm seriously considering the D2 to replace my Lex MC-12/Vantage-HD combo, but I'm nervous about not having enough flexibility to meet my needs. I'm also concerned about further development of the Gennum scaler feature set. "Thinking about it" is a long way off from total commitment to further development.



Bob,


You bring up an important point, and it touches on one area where I'd like to see Anthem provide more flexibility. You are correct that there are only 7 totally configurable inputs -besides the AM/FM Tuner, 2 Channel Analog Balanced, and 6 channel (5.1) analog RCA, all of which are "hard-wired". I found that I had to get a little creative in order to handle all my components. As it is, I now have used every available input, and all but 1 output on the D2, and though I don't expect to need another source anytime soon, it would be nice to have some growing room. I am at max potential now as far as number of input sources.


In defense of Anthem, I will say that the 7 flexible input sources are completely configurable. That is, if you want to re-use a different video or audio source for a given "Input" you can. You can also specify what speaker configuration to use per input as the default, and then modify if/when needed.


I think it may just boil down to real-estate on the back of the D2. Anthem is literally using every centimeter of available space on the back panel already. I think if they want to allow for more inputs, they are going to have to change the chassis and move to a larger chassis. I would suspect that the D3, whenever it becomes a reality, will almost HAVE to have a much larger footprint. Seems the connectivity we need these days goes way beyond what was needed even 3 years ago by most high-enders.


I thought it might be helpful for me to share my setup as a use case, to illustrate one example anyway of the various inputs and what they might be used for on a D2:


CD - Marantz CDR-510 DualDeck Pro CD Recorder/Player

TAPE - Olive Symphony Music Server

VCR - Sony RDR-VX515 VCR/DVD Recorder Combo

DVD - Pioneer DV-79avi DVD Video/DVD Audio/SACD player

AUX - Sirius Satellite Radio Tuner

SAT - DirecTivo HR10-250

TV - XBOX 360

AM/FM Tuner (Hard-Wired, Built into D2)

2 Channel Balanced Analog - Meridian G08 Upsampling CD Player

6 Channel Analog - Pioneer DV-79AVI (6 Analog Outputs for SACD use only)


----------



## jdswph

I have a AVM20 and have found a great feature in the Digital (first) then Analouge. This combination will free up a number of connections.


I use the the CD digital input for the Midi Lab then when the Midi Lab is switched off the CD input becomes the Reel to Reel tape recorder.


The AUX is a turntable but becomes PS2 when switched on.


----------



## Bob Sorel




> Quote:
> I think it may just boil down to real-estate on the back of the D2. Anthem is literally using every centimeter of available space on the back panel already. I think if they want to allow for more inputs, they are going to have to change the chassis and move to a larger chassis.



Thanks for the info! In my case I could probably get away with the number of connectors already on the back panel, so my request to Anthem would be to "unlock" the 3 hard wired configs. I don't need or want an AM/FM config, so let me use the EPROM space to config some other combination of A/V connectors that I need instead. The same goes with the 2 channel input. I could use the 5.1 input, but I would just need a simple s-v or composite video signal for disc navigation - I don't need to use a more valuable component or HDMI input, as I don't use the same player for DVD playback.


And I have a HD-DVD player on order and plan on buying a Blu-Ray player in May - Where can I connect these? (Sorry, I'm just thinking out loud...







)


----------



## LEVESQUE

Bob.


Anthem customer service is second to none. Just send an e-mail to Nick and tell him exactly what you want. He will usually give you an answer the same day or the next one. If they can do it, they will just release a firmware upgrade with the new features. If they can't, they will honestly tell you.


I remember asking them for something in particular when I was using an AVM20, and then getting it with a simple download a couple of days later.


So just ask Nick directly.


----------



## nacchio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Sorel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And I have a HD-DVD player on order and plan on buying a Blu-Ray player in May - Where can I connect these? (Sorry, I'm just thinking out loud...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )




You can use HDMI audio connection. The D2 is able to accept 8 PCM audio stream, so you can use THX post processing when you listen Dolby True HD and DTS Master HD. In this way the decoding is obtained by player directly. I remember you that DTS THD and DTS MHD are only two lossless stream of data, so the decompression doesn't give any problem to audio quality


----------



## EL

Hey LEVESQUE,

do you think if I ask for firewire I will have it?









I saw the place for that on the back but they told me since it's only (well not only) for SACD they will not do it because SACD pass with HDMI 1.2 but they implemented 1.1 ... so there is a hole.

Do you know the plan for that, either firewire or HDMI 1.2?


pretty eye in 480i upscaled in 1080p


----------



## KenLand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> ... I would suspect that the D3, whenever it becomes a reality, will almost HAVE to have a much larger footprint. Seems the connectivity we need these days goes way beyond what was needed even 3 years ago by most high-enders.
> 
> ...




If they haven't already, they could allow the 4 HDMI inputs to be 4 *additional* inputs.


It would just require a bit of creativity on the source selection.


Ken


----------



## Bob Sorel




> Quote:
> Just send an e-mail to Nick and tell him exactly what you want. He will usually give you an answer the same day or the next one. If they can do it, they will just release a firmware upgrade with the new features. If they can't, they will honestly tell you.



Thanks, LEVESQUE, I'll do just that, but I have a few questions before I email him:


1. Are the configs (I am using that term because it is clearer than using "input") _truly_ 100% configurable? That is can ANY video input be assigned to ANY audio input? For example, in the Lex, when I create something like a "HTPC" config, I can assign ANY low res video input (composite or s-video) PLUS ANY hi res video input (the Lex only has component - no HDMI) PLUS ANY digital audio input (coax or optical) PLUS ANY analog input (2 channel or 5.1 channel). This allows me to assign 2 video and 2 audio inputs to any config and then use the same inputs to be assigned to another config.


2. I can also use the same inputs as many times as I want. I can use, for example, s-video #5 on all 12 configs if I want. They are not locked out of other configs once I assign them for the first time. An example of this usage would be my HTPC. I need two configs for it, one for the main video card and another for the MyHD card, and though they use the same DVI output coming out of the back of the PC, they each have their own digital coax output and analog outputs, so I need to use the same DVI input on the D2 (I know, it will be HDMI) but assign different audio inputs. I can use the same 5.1 analog input several times if I wish...Can the D2 do these things now or will I need to request these features?


3. When using HDMI inputs, can the audio be configured separately, through HDMI, or both? So far I don't have any sources which feed audio through HDMI, but I am pretty confident that the upcoming HD-DV and Blu-Ray plyers will.


I don't want to ask Nick needless questions if they have already been resolved, so I figured I would ask here first. I have to admit that I am really pretty hot on this product and I hope that I can make it work for me. Thanks for all of your help!


----------



## LEVESQUE

Bob.


Just ask Nick at Anthem. And come post the answer here after, so we will all know also.


----------



## Bob Sorel

Ok, long letter has been sent to Nick (I hope...the address you posted on page one was not that obvious that it would be going to Nick...







). I gave him a link to post here if he would like, but if not I will be happy to pass on the info.


----------



## Davor

Hey guys,


Just an FYI that Anthem has updated their website with a dedicated D2 page.

Can't post a link (not enough posts yet) but it's right on the Anthem Statement homepage.


I've had my D2 for about a week now and have played around with the settings quite extensively. I'll post later on (probably this weekend) with a lot more details...some good, some not so good, and some incredible!


I'll quickly say that the 'incredible' is the video processor. This thing does wonders. The difference in video quality is night and day (at least in my situation), and I'm by no means an expert on this sort of thing.


Back this weekend...


Davor


----------



## goenkar

Here is the link to the D2 page


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Davor* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> Just an FYI that Anthem has updated their website with a dedicated D2 page.
> 
> Can't post a link (not enough posts yet) but it's right on the Anthem Statement homepage.
> 
> 
> I've had my D2 for about a week now and have played around with the settings quite extensively. I'll post later on (probably this weekend) with a lot more details...some good, some not so good, and some incredible!
> 
> 
> I'll quickly say that the 'incredible' is the video processor. This thing does wonders. The difference in video quality is night and day (at least in my situation), and I'm by no means an expert on this sort of thing.
> 
> 
> Back this weekend...
> 
> 
> Davor



Davor,

I am very interested inreading about your initial impressions more fully.


I am sold on the video abilities of the D2, but need more info/feedback on the MC and 2 CH audio of the D2. and of the prior D1 as the audio sections are identical.


Thanks to you and others for taking the time to comment. Very helpful to all of us.


Stan


----------



## Bob Sorel

Wow, that was fast! Nick got back to me within a couple of hours, and here is his reply:


> Quote:
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Thank you for your e-mail.
> 
> 
> You can already assign any video connection to multiple sources, any number. You can also do that with the digital audio connections, except they cannot be assigned to 2-Ch Bal, 6-Ch, or the tuner input. Any input can be renamed.
> 
> 
> It would not take much work to complete the picture by allowing any digital audio input to be assigned to the remaining source buttons. We've just never had that many requests for it, but as of now it's under consideration.
> 
> 
> Note that audio from HDMI cannot be assigned separately from its video (something that's not up to us), although you can assign the video from HDMI with the audio coming from a different connection, in case you're using DVI.
> 
> 
> About the scaler's features, our company's position is that as of the last dozen business days, we're on software version 1.00 .... there will be more.
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Nick P., Technical Support



I have to admit, I am very impressed by the quick reaction and great communication from Anthem! It looks like with version 1.00 of the software being only 12 days old, they are not yet ready to speculate on future video features...very understandable but not quite the answer I had hoped for.


----------



## gostan

And Bob,


Nick is responding to many of us with answers to our questions notwithstanding that we are not even Anthem owners yet. There are a numbe of other AV companies who can learn something from Anthem about real customer service.


Stan


----------



## Bob Sorel

Yes, I agree with you totally, Stan. This kind of highly responsive, individualized attention can not be overstated! It gives me great confidence to deal with a company that cares so much about its customers, or in my case, a potential customer. I am about 95% sold on this product (and the company) and will probably buy a D2 very soon!


----------



## Bob Sorel

I asked Nick another question in regard to how much "room" was left in the current hardware to effect additional video features and improvements, and less than an hour later I got this reply:


> Quote:
> Plenty of room left over, both on the video side and audio, all part of the plan. The day after something comes out, work on the next thing starts, and it's hard to say what will happen and when until it's actually done. For example, when the surround preamp's platform was under development, provision for 1394 was included, to be filled when it would become meaningful. Lo and behold, we have HDMI.
> 
> 
> If you would like an idea of how this works, the list of changes that comes with the latest AVM 20 software is a good indication.



That's it...I'm sold! Time to go talk to Alan!


----------



## MDRbone

In looking through the D2 manual, I noticed that possible output resolutions do not include 1024x768, a very common resolution for 42" displays. Based on the owner's manual, my commercial Panasonic plasma will accept 1024x768 @ 60HZ, its native resolution. Any thoughts on why such a common output resolution was omitted? Any suggestions for optimal matching with my display?


----------



## Ron Alcasid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MDRbone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In looking through the D2 manual, I noticed that possible output resolutions do not include 1024x768, a very common resolution for 42" displays. Based on the owner's manual, my commercial Panasonic plasma will accept 1024x768 @ 60HZ, its native resolution. Any thoughts on why such a common output resolution was omitted? Any suggestions for optimal matching with my display?



1024x768 is listed under "Computer Monitors" on page 33. Your main issue will be your panels use of non square pixels. If you output the panels native rate everything will look stretched horizontally.


----------



## LEVESQUE

Official Anthem D2 page on Anthem website:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/Products/D2/D2.html


----------



## KenLand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Official Anthem D2 page on Anthem website:
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/Products/D2/D2.html




Yeah, I saw that last night and got all excited when I saw the *Upgrade* button.










I'm going to be miserable when I get my HD-DVD player in a few weeks and no HDMI inputs on my D1!!!


But I guess if that's my worst problem...










Ken


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm going to be miserable when I get my HD-DVD player in a few weeks and no HDMI inputs on my D1!!!



My dealer did confirm yesterday my Toshiba HD-DVD player for the 18th...







So with the D2 and the Sony Ruby, I will soon be fully ready for 1080p!


----------



## THX Mode

Hey Levesque et al, (How's it going - lonng time no talk!!)


Just saw the D2 pics from Lev's setup -- ordered a D2 today!!


(I'm in the process of moving my D1 out on Canuck Audio Mart)


My wife isn't pleased -- but Nick made me feel better










Can't Wait....


../TC


----------



## MDRbone

For those of you with displays using non-square pixels, Nick at Anthem tells me that they have 'incorporated correction for square to non-square pixel aspect ratio' in the software. Of course, there's no guarantee of perfect performance, as this wasn't tested on every display possible. However, kudos to the guys at Anthem for really thinking through most every possibility! I'm really sold on this upgrade.


----------



## Ted W

Levesque, how's the sonic performance with your Paradigm set-up? I'm eyeing this exact combination for myself.


----------



## KenLand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MDRbone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ... However, kudos to the guys at Anthem for really thinking through most every possibility! I'm really sold on this upgrade.



That's what a lot of people miss. Just because some flavor of the month receiver has it on its feature list doesn't mean it works.


I had the pleasure of meeting and talking with Anthem's head of R&D at Cedia and it was clear that working through details (like pixels AR's and non-standard HDMI devices etc.) was the major source of holdup.


Anthem is going to the considerable trouble and expense to actually make it all work and work right.


Having a feature on the shiny brochure is one thing. Making it all compatible with real devices is quite another. I'm confident Anthem is doing the hard part as well as can be done.


Ken


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ted W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque, how's the sonic performance with your Paradigm set-up? I'm eyeing this exact combination for myself.



There is a synergy between the D2/P2/P5 and the Paradigm Signature speakers that I wasn't able to recreate with everything else I've tried in my room. I'm really happy with that set-up. It's the first time I keep my amps and speakers for more then 6 months!


And with the Sony Ruby and Gennum combination, I'm now really satisfied with my video chain also. I'm just waiting for those HD players now.


----------



## mbkintner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Sorel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's it...I'm sold! Time to go talk to Alan!



Is AVS selling Anthem products?


Mike


----------



## K2evergreen

As a reader of this forum for awhile and little contributions, I've finally assembled my multi-channel setup built around the D2 and can report some initial findings.


Background: a 2-channel enthusiast (Krell, Theta, & Vandersteen) for 20 years, I finally decided to get more use out of the system and have been converting to a 7.1 channel, "entire family" system. I'm decidedly a "hobbyist" in this realm, not in the HT/Audio industry.


System:

Anthem D2

Marantz DV9600 DVD

Theta Dreadnaught II

Vandersteen 3A Signatures, VCC-5, VSM Sigs (surrounds), 1C (rears), V2W sub

HP DLP (6580) 1080P display

DirecTV 10-250 TIVO


It's taken me four months to get the pieces assembled with the D2 finally arriving on Saturday. I have so many variables at play and most of the gear is still burning in. Like many others drawn to the D2 (and DV9600), I am running HDMI throughout. I have faithfully followed the set up advice offered by Levesque and others (thanks much).


PQ: My biggest revelation was in seeing PQ improvement (albeit initial impressions and subjective, no test patterns) in changing from 1080P output from the DV9600 to 480i and letting the D2 perform the de-interlacing/scaling. I don't think the 9600 is a slouch here but the picture letting the Gennum do its thing is much more three dimensional (depth) that I am having a hard time imagining how much better the HD DVD sources could be. I'm sure I'll think differently after being able to try it but what I am currently getting is stunning. And, my display has not been calibrated yet.


Sonic Impressions: fantastic so far with much more critical listening (and burn in) to go. This is my first taste of (high res) DVD-A and SACD sources so I'm re-discovering much on the audio side. DVD-A over HDMI to the D2, SACD over SE analog.


I haven't asked Nick this question and folks on this forum probably know off hand. What is the "HDMI Repeater" setting doing? I know as a digital protocol that there is a two-way handshake, does turning the repeater "off" affect this in some way? I have seen a state where the color map is messed up (green or red tint). After going back and forth with the D2s setup menu, it seemed to reset, completed the handshake, whatever and resumed normal function.

Anyway, well done, Anthem!

Ken


----------



## LEVESQUE

Ken


What version of the software do you have? I had this problem (green or orange tint across the screen after getting out of the video ouput set-up menu... I think it was after getting out of the main menu item number 8) with the beta firmware, but with 1.00, the problem is gone for me. It doesn't happen anymore.


You should check the firmware version you have.


----------



## Blaine

I'm in!


I exchanged my Rotel 1098 for the Anthem Statement D2. I had the Rotel for about a month and I really liked the audio quality but I thought at this point I might as well.....


I have also ordered Statement A2 and A5 amps.


Now my problem is what should I do with the Oppo DVD player I just bought!!!


Here is my humble system so far:


Anthem Statement D2

Anthem MCA-5 to be replaced

(Anthem Statement A2 and A5 should be here by next weekend)

Scientific Atlanta 8300 HD PVR

Mitsubishi HC3000U and Vutec 92" HCBW screen

Oppo OPDV971H DVD

Von Schweikert LCR-35 center (big mama!)

Von Schweikert VR-1 Left, Right, Left Rear, Right Rear

Von Schweikert TS-150 Left Surround, Right Surround

SVS PB-12 sub (Flood recovery victim thanks to TomV)

Velodyne SMS-1 digital EQ

Lots of cable from BlueJeans, VampireWire


So it looks like my DVD may be the weak link because it won't pass 480i over HDMI.


I hate the idea of throwing a ton of money at a player just to act as a video equivalent of a CD transport.


I'd also like to upgrade to Blueray sometime in the future.


So are there any good 480i players in the sub $500 range?


Time to go downstairs and work on the setup!


- Blaine


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> *Originally posted by Blaine*
> 
> So are there any good 480i players in the sub $500 range?



Check out this link for a plethora of answers!







What players support 480i over DVI-D or HDMI?


----------



## gostan

Hi Blaine


Congrats on your new D2. I enjoyed chatting with you when you picked it up yesterday. Good think that the A2 and A5 were not yet in as your car would need some new shocks.


Why don't you ask Gary if he can get you a good deal on a Pioneer DV-79AI. More than you want to spend, but you really should think about which 480i player will balance with your system.


Let us know what your system synergy is when your Statement amps come in.


----------



## LEVESQUE

There's not alot of choices at 500$ or under.


The upcoming Oppo 970H should be really interesting. I will probably buy one myself just for fun. The Sony DVP-NS975V should be near that price also.


Don't forget you need a HDMI 1.1 player. The 79AVi is a little bit more, but I can confirm that it's working flawlessly with the D2.


And congrats for the D2 and those new Anthem amps.


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't forget you need a HDMI 1.1 player.



Are you saying an HDMI 1.0 player, like the 59avi, won't work with the D2 using the HDMI connection?


----------



## ManWithAPlan

I have to agree with Levesque, the Pioneer DV-79avi is worth the extra money if you can swing it. Not only is it 480i over HDMI compatible, and HDMI 1.1 compatible, but the SACD and DVD-Audio sound quality are really impressive. The HDMI 1.1 will pass multichannel DVD-Audio, and it works great with the D2. Of course, for SACD, you still need the 6-channel outputs from the Pio and inputs on the D2.


I have found myself seeking out some old musical gems that are now available on SACD and/or DVD-Audio, and have been revisiting some old jazz stuff in particular, but also great recordings like the Who's "Tommy", Pink Floyd's Dark Side of the Moon, Dire Straits, etc. If anybody out there is a jazz fan at any level, do yourself a favor - pick up the limited edition SACD version of Jazz at the Pawnshop, and play the 5.1-channel mix through the D2, and this thing leaps out of your living room, and will fill your head for days. Every note is so real, it makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up....insanely high quality audio.


Damn I love my D2 and Pio 79avi...major prop's go to Levesque for talking me out of a super high end DVD player, and going instead with this flagship Pio box, which does everything very well, and nothing lousy.


----------



## Blaine

Hey Stan - great meeting you too. I will ask Gary.


One of the things that was keeping me back from getting the 79AVi as a video source for the D2 is some of the noted problems (specific for using it as a transport) noted in the Secrets Benchmark review.


"Some of the key things to look for when shopping for a digital transport are pixel cropping, CUE performance, and usability (speed of navigation and layer change). You also want to be sure the player doesn't have any Y/C delay issues. Unfortunately the 79AVi has issues in almost all of these categories." Kris Deering DVD Benchmark 2006


I understand that the D2 scaler is good but it can't fix these problems - correct?


Maybe I should stick with my Oppo for now and wait a couple months. The downside is that I'll have to put off my ISF calibration until I figure out which player.


----------



## Les 1

Picked up my D2 on the 1st of this month and have a few questions from fellow owners.Firstly do you guys find that you are doing much tweeking on the scaler end from the factory defaults or does making an adjustment to better one thing create another issue with PQ.I have found this scenario for me from my HD satellite receiver and also from my STD sat receiver.However my Sim Audio Stellar DVD player has definately benefited from some adjustments.Also my STD receiver has only an s video output, by purchasing one with component outs , will it achieve better picture quality even if it is the same receiver.

Also is anyone having problems with there video in regards to after making some scaling adjustments that you may get lines across the screen .I have had to power down the unit to get rid of it and also on switching of sources i have had an issue where it will not switch [shows a blank screen]without powering down the D2 and restarting it.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blaine* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One of the things that was keeping me back from getting the 79AVi as a video source for the D2 is some of the noted problems (specific for using it as a transport) noted in the Secrets Benchmark review.
> 
> 
> "Some of the key things to look for when shopping for a digital transport are pixel cropping, CUE performance, and usability (speed of navigation and layer change). You also want to be sure the player doesn't have any Y/C delay issues. Unfortunately the 79AVi has issues in almost all of these categories." Kris Deering DVD Benchmark 2006
> 
> 
> I understand that the D2 scaler is good but it can't fix these problems - correct?



Take a look (it will take you a while to read the whole thing) at the Pioneer DV-79AI thread in the Standard Def DVD section: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=578758 


It appears to me that while the described issues do appear to show up in the Secrets DVD Benchmark test, that many of these so-called issues are not really an issue in real life useage. And that some of these may be related to faulty discs. Many DV79AI users seem to concur with this in the thread. Maybe Levesque can shed some thoughts on this player.


And thanks for reference to your ISF Calibration expert. I will take advantage of this in the fall when I upgrade my monitor.


----------



## LEVESQUE

About the 79AVi. The Gennum scaler of the D2 will take care of the CUE bug (altough not completely...) and there is a Y/C delay adjustment in the menu. I'm not home, but it's H/offset or something like that (the last item of the 2nd menu... I think). You should ask Nick to be sure.


If you have MIcrosoft WHQL 3.0 disk, you can clearly see the effect of the Gennum CUE filtering when switching it on and off.


And yes the 59AVi will work with the D2 even if it's "only" HDMI 1.0.


Les 1.


The best thing you could do is hire a good ISF calibrator to calibrate each sources and inputs for your display. I can tell you it will be well worth the price.


Or else, you will have to calibrate each input seperately in the Gennum menu, since there is a memory bank for each. Each sources will need different settings.


----------



## MDRbone

I have a Panasonic 42" plasma, and I am planning to get a new blade for the Anthem scaler. I am concerned that the Panasonic HDMI blades do not support the native resolution of my display. The DVI blades, however, do seem to support the native resolution. Does anyone have any thoughts on using a DVI blade in conjunction with an HDMI-DVI cable from the Anthem?


----------



## Blaine

OK Stan and Alain - picked up a DV-79AVi. One solid DVD player to be sure. I still need another HDMI cable to show up until I put it through its paces with the D2.


Oh this evil hobby....


----------



## rsbeck

I thought there were hoards of people waiting for the D2 to be released.


I'm a little surprised there aren't more people chiming in to share experiences with the D2.


Either this means;


1) We don't have a lot of D2 owners here on AVS.


2) People are waiting for more reviews before buying.


3) The people who bought the D2 upon its release are too busy enjoying it to post.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blaine* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK Stan and Alain - picked up a DV-79AVi. One solid DVD player to be sure. I still need another HDMI cable to show up until I put it through its paces with the D2.
> 
> 
> Oh this evil hobby....



Blaine, yeah, the Pioneer is pretty darn solid. Now you can really put the D2 through its' paces. Give us a report when you come up for air.


----------



## gostan

I thought there were hoards of people waiting for the D2 to be released.


I'm a little surprised there aren't more people chiming in to share experiences with the D2.


Either this means;



> Quote:
> 1) We don't have a lot of D2 owners here on AVS.



Or they are awaiting delivery of their D2's, as I am.



> Quote:
> 2) People are waiting for more reviews before buying.



Or they have a decent pre-pro and are waiting for hdmi 1.3 instead of hdmi 1.1 connections before upgrading again. There still is much confusion about this out there.



> Quote:
> 3) The people who bought the D2 upon its release are too busy enjoying it to post.



Without doubt!


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsbeck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought there were hoards of people waiting for the D2 to be released.
> 
> I'm a little surprised there aren't more people chiming in to share experiences with the D2.



Not at all. The D2 is out since only 2 weeks!


They are just shipping the first batch to dealers, and then those dealers have to ship them to customers. I have 3 close friends that did pre-order a D2 and are still waiting for delivery.


Also, alot of D1 owners are waiting for the upgrade plan to the D2. The D1 was a really popular pre/pro.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blaine* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK Stan and Alain - picked up a DV-79AVi.



Good move. But be sure to activate the "CUE" filtering and adjust the Y/C delay (using AVIA is easier) in the Gennum scaler.


Blaine. What display are you using? Do you know the native resolution of that display?


----------



## K2evergreen

From Levesque (re: the D2 quirk on color mapping):


What version of the software do you have? I had this problem (green or orange tint across the screen after getting out of the video ouput set-up menu... I think it was after getting out of the main menu item number 8) with the beta firmware, but with 1.00, the problem is gone for me. It doesn't happen anymore.


Reply: So as one of the first non-Beta units shipped, mine has v1.00 as well. I haven't seen the problem in awhile so I won't stress over it. If it crops up a bunch more, I'll drop Nick a line.

Blaine:

Nice system assembled for sure. re: your DVD issue, I'm with ManWithAPlan re: getting the benefit of SACD/DVD-A from a couple of the 480i capable players. Granted, I am an audiophile first but the high res. formats would be a nice addition that your vons would resolve very well.


ManWithAPlan:

Thanks for the recommendations. Jazz at the Pawnshop was an old 2channel favorite, I will definitely pick up a 5.1ch copy. Do I remember correctly that you are running your SACD/DVD-A all via Analog-Dir mode? I have been busy playing around with the various DSP surround modes as well and seem to gravatate back to the Analog-Dir each time. Just wondering if you found a mode that is worth the tradeoff of the additional ADC/DAC step?


Les 1:

For what it's worth I haven't had to tweak the scaler output's defaults with my set up (but I am no expert in the video realm to be sure). The defaults have been looking great for me once I got the initial settings to match my display's native format.


Ken


----------



## elmac

Hello all

First post here

My D2 is on the way its an upgrade from rotel rsp1098

I have one question to you all how will this work with my HDPJ52 Hitachi PJ

Any inside on how should I set my first settengs on D2 also HDMI is on the way from blue jeans cable pj is about 25' (cable run)away from my system

Thank you all


----------



## ManWithAPlan

K2Evergreen,


For DVD-Audio discs, I use my Pio 79-AVI and the HDMI 1.1 on it, to send the multichannel audio to the D2's HDMI inputs. For SACD's, the Pio uses its 6 channel analog outputs to send to the 6-channel S/E input on the D2. Both DVD'As and SACD's sound amazing.


As for DSP's modes, I am experimenting quite a bit myself with different ones. I like Analog Direct a lot, but for DVD-A's I have been using Dolby ProLogic Music sometimes. I am far from settling on my favorite yet, I'm still such a neophyte with all the options the D2 gives me. By the way, I was pleasantly surprised at how good Anthem Logic-Music is as well. I'd be interested in your take on all this too.


I also have been experimenting with sending some of the low frequencies to the Sub, even for Music Speaker setup. Even though I have very full range speakers with the B&W 703s, I kinda like what I get by sending anything below about 50Hz to the sub using the Super sub setting in the D2. Like I said, I'm still experimenting with the right crossover point, but about 40-50Hz sounds pretty nice.


----------



## shah993

I have the D2 but my hometheater is not quite finished yet as I had to do a lot of rewiring for the HDMI.I had a proceed PAV before this and so I am looking forward to checking it out.I had my dealer test it in his showroom before I got it and at the default setting it looked great and sounded great.More in about 2 weeks.I am not sure if I can post pictures on this forum yet ( my 3 rd post).


----------



## jgbden

My D2 is on the way! (and also an HP MD6580NAVS bought from TV Authority using their deal for AVS Forum members).


I understand you need 480i HDMI to take full advantage of the internal scaling/deinterlacing. I've run into a dead end trying to find a network media player that supports that. Looking for something similar to the TIVX M-5000 or Pixel Magic HD Mediabox. The application is primarily streaming ripped DVD content from a windows server.


Anyone know of a solution?


Some of the players have 1080i, any idea how good the D2 would do acting as the deinterlacer for that already scaled signal?


Thanks for any help.


----------



## rsbeck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> They are just shipping the first batch to dealers, and then those dealers have to ship them to customers. I have 3 close friends that did pre-order a D2 and are still waiting for delivery. Also, alot of D1 owners are waiting for the upgrade plan to the D2. The D1 was a really popular pre/pro.



I see. So, its just that only a few people managed to get one so early.


I have been awaiting this release and I plan to purchase one, but my D2 will be going into a dedicated theater in a new home that is under construction, so I can wait awhile. Still, I am itching to get my hands on one and start playing!


----------



## K2evergreen

Hi ManWithAPlan,


So my set up on the audio connections is very similar to yours, DVD-A over HDMI and then a 6-ch SE input for the SACD/CD. I have not yet connected my Theta Data/Pro Prime DAC to the 2-ch input yet but it might be an interesting comparison vs. playing redbook CDs via my Marantz.


Mode Impressions: Like you, I am still experimenting with all the options. With 2-channel input like video/music DVDs I do seem to gravitate to either PLII music or AL-music. Maybe it's the two channel history that we share but I still seem to gravitate back to the D2's Analog-Dir mode any time I have a CD or SACD playing. So far I've even been preferring the high-res 2-channel DVD-A tracks vs. the DVD-A 5.1 mixes. I'm trying to discern if it sounds better to me because that's what I am more accustomed to hearing over the years or if there is an imaging precision and depth difference. That being said, I have been enjoying some of the SACD 5.1 mixes as the soundstage seems to stay true to the original recording's intent. But, I'm making this statement on a very small sample size so far.


Thanks for the tips on the Super Sub setting. I haven't done any tweaking there but will try. My vandys are also pretty flat down to 30Hz. I have been considering adding a pair of 2wq subs paired to each of my 3A Sigs down the road (in addition to the V2W for the LFE stuff) but need to absorb the expense of the D2 for awhile first...


If I have any epiphanys, I'll definitely drop you a line.

Ken


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello all
> 
> First post here
> 
> My D2 is on the way its an upgrade from rotel rsp1098
> 
> I have one question to you all
> 
> How will this work with my HDPJ52 Hitachi PJ?
> 
> Any inside on how should I set my first settengs on D2
> 
> HDMI is on the way from blue jeans cable (pj is about 25' (cable run)away from my system)
> 
> Thank you all



Should I use 720P or 1080I settings?


----------



## matthewD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Should I use 720P or 1080I settings?



I would think you would want to feed it what ever the native resolution of your projector is.


----------



## htfool

Okay.....Just setup my new D2. Maybe someone can help me. My display reads 480i on my d2 in dvd mode. Player is the panasonic Rp91. How do I get 1080i picture with my D2 while playing Dvd's. Picture quailty is much better, but should i not have 1080i displayed on the front of the D2. Anyhelp would be great


----------



## bballer

HTfool. Go to menu 8 (video output). There you can set the resolution, color space and data format. The front panel will tell what signal the D2 is receiving, but if you open up the scaler (by pressing #7 for 3 sec) you can then select info where it will tell you what the scaler is receiving and what the output that has been selected and is being sent to the video source.


----------



## gostan

Well, if any D2 owners were waiting for the Toshiba HD-DVD Players to arrive in order to obtain a 480i output over HDMI DVD Player, initial reports are that its' a no go. Initial reports are that 480i is only available over component outputs. Bummer!!


----------



## htfool

bballer,

I have been to Menu 8. Where in menu 8 can u select for dvd source only? I have set it for tv source.


----------



## dsm363

Has anyone had trouble passing the video from a Sony 9100ES DVD player through the D2's HDMI ports? I can't get a picture at all. I have version 1.00 of the software. Thanks.


Dave


----------



## FilmMixer

Sold my Denon 5805 and 5910ci and will probably have my D2 next week... I cannot wait!!!!


I was wondering if somebody could post a quick cheat sheet for setting up the 79avi and the D2... vid settings for both, etc... for best upscaling of that setup.. this will be feeding a Sony Ruby......


----------



## rsbeck

I think Levesque is your man. He's got the same gear and is a font of info.


----------



## mlbrand

I am considering ordering a D2, but I don't know much about video processing or scaling, so forgive the rookie question ahead of time.


Will the D2 take a 480i DVD filmed in an aspect ratio (say 2:35) that unprocessed does NOT fill the full screen of my widescreen HDTV, and not only upconvert it to 1080i, but make it fill the whole letter box screen, with no bars on the top or sides *and* still improve the picture quality? My current equipment will scale these movies to fill the picture, but the PQ suffers so I don't do it.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sold my Denon 5805 and 5910ci and will probably have my D2 next week... I cannot wait!!!!










Bold, and surprising move! Not a single review on the D2 and you made a jump like that?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was wondering if somebody could post a quick cheat sheet for setting up the 79avi and the D2... vid settings for both, etc... for best upscaling of that setup.. this will be feeding a Sony Ruby......



I have the exact same set-up. We did calibrate everything with a Minolta spectro, Colorfacts and OpticOne.


79AVi: "Component 12 bit" (so YCbCr 4:2:2), 480i out, then copy "Direct" settings to "Memory 1". O IRE, and black level bump 1 notch to the right. Everything else is at default.


D2. Menu Video 8 Video output: HDMI, 1920X1080p60, ColorSpace: HDTV, YCbCr 4:2:2 out.


In the Gennum menu: contrast 40, Brightness 51, Color and tint at 50 (note that those settings are with my projector, and after doing a full-blown calibation, so maybe not good with yours...). Film mode "on", CUE bug filtering "on", Y/C delay adjustment with AVIA.


Sony Ruby: everything at default in the user menus (I mean contrast 80 brightness 50 color and hue 50). Sharpness at min (plus EE removal tweak in the user menu), black level off, Iris Auto, custom gamma curve (if you can't do one, then you can use gamma 3 for SD and gamma 2 for HD).


Advanced settings in the Ruby's factory menu. Most of the time I'm using "Darin's" iris tweak: other/43:140 and other/44:650 to maximise contrast. And sometimes "Alan's" tweak at 43/44 376/100 to maximise brigthness.


And at 110 hours on the bulb. Gain R 103 G 124 B 127 and Bias R 133 G 124 B 123. You can try those values just for fun, but you definitely want to have it done by an ISF calibrator, or buy a good analyser to find your values.


We also did 2 RCP custom settings: one for SD (rec 601) and an other one for HD (rec 709). It's your call here. For some material I prefer accuracy, and for other type of material I prefer more saturation (RCP off). You need precision tools to measure those tough.


Have fun!


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Will the D2 take a 480i DVD filmed in an aspect ratio (say 2:35) that unprocessed does NOT fill the full screen of my widescreen HDTV, and not only upconvert it to 1080i, but make it fill the whole letter box screen, with no bars on the top or sides*and* still improve the picture quality?



What you are trying to do is fit a square peg into a round hole.









Don't know if the D2 has this capability but most scalers I have owned do have it. Now the question becomes why would you do such a thing? In your example above you have two ways of doing it neither very pretty. You can zoom the picture which means you will lose part of the sides of the image or you can squish the image in which case people and faces will look long and skinny. Most "zoom" functions do a combination of both. What I'm trying to say is no scaler in the world can fill your screen without losing part of, or distorting the picture.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bold, and surprising move! Not a single review on the D2 and you made a jump like that?
> 
> 
> I have the exact same set-up. We did calibrate everything with a Minolta spectro, Colorfacts and OpticOne.



Thanks for the detailed reply..... What can I say... I am very impulsive, but I used to have an AVM 30 and know how great the Anthem is... And Denon's 1080p implimentaiton is not anywhere near what Anthem is doing...


My Ruby was cal''d by umr, so hopefully the settings should get us in the same ball park...


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My Ruby was cal''d by umr, so hopefully the settings should get us in the same ball park...



So no problems then. Umr is one of the best. Did he create different custom RCP settings to match rec 601 and rec 709?


The only problem is that your video chain has changed, so you should ask Umr to come back and do a little "touch up". Changing the player and adding a scaler will need minor calibration again.


Or you should ask him to come tweak everything when you will buy your HD-DVD player soon...


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So no problems then. Umr is one of the best. Did he create different custom RCP settings to match rec 601 and rec 709?
> 
> 
> The only problem is that your video chain has changed, so you should ask Umr to come back and do a little "touch up". Changing the player and adding a scaler will need minor calibration again.
> 
> 
> Or you should ask him to come tweak everything when you will buy your HD-DVD player soon...



I will..too bad he was just here this week caling my RP set... next go round.. Thanks for all of the help...


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> _originally posted by obie_fl_ What I'm trying to say is no scaler in the world can fill your screen without losing part of, or distorting the picture.



Thanks for the answer Obie, that makes sense. So it appears that the main benefit of a "scaler", is to upscale lower quality images, and/or better match them to the native resolution of the video display. Still a very substantial benefit if the scaler does as good a job as the D2 Gennum appears to.


Mike


----------



## gostan

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 08:55:57 -0400

To: [email protected] 

Subject: D2 480i Question


Hi Nick,


One question relating to the new Toshiba HD DV player. Early reports

indicate that it does not output at 480i over hdmi. But it appears

that it does output 480i over component. What happens with the

scaler in the D2 if you are not using 480i via hdmi from the player?

And will the 480i over component upsample to the hdmi output?


Thanks,

Stan


I received the following answer today from Nick: Hi Stan,


If the player can't output 480i from HDMI (when playing SD discs), try using

its component output at 480i, and compare with HDMI output.


When the player is outputting 480p, it uses its own deinterlacer. When it's

outputting 480i via component, the D2's deinterlacer will be used, however,

component connection may have more noise and/or non-picture garbage around

the edges. In the latter case, use the Edges function in the video

processing menu.


Either way, the D2 sends the picture to the display via HDMI.


Nick


----------



## mlbrand

Here is a key question for many of us, which I don't remember seeing in this thread yet (unless I missed it).

*Will owners/early adopters of HDTV's that only have component inputs benefit from the D2's Gennum scaler?* I have several input sources with HDMI and component outputs, like the Pioneer 79AVi, and an HDTivo. I'm hoping that the D2 can take these sources and still improve P.Q. significantly while outputting through component to my Pioneer HD RPTV.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Yes it can and it will. The D2 can output its scaled video in either Component or HDMI. In fact, if you are using the HDMI or Main Component outputs for Zone 1, you can even output a second processed output via the second set of Component outs.


You've got quite a few options here.


----------



## Ted W

Sorry if I missed this, but is there a planned upgrade path when HDMI 1.3 arrives? Or will this require a new D2? Thanks.


----------



## KenLand

Ok, I've got my HD-DVD player but only a D1!


I'm about to start taking hostages










The D2 has to be the perfect processor for this player. Hi-rez audio over HDMI, Proper deinterlacing of 1080i over HDMI. Only the D2 AFAIK has exactly what it needs.


Ken

(will work for D2 upgrade)


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, I've got my HD-DVD player but only a D1!



I have a D2 but no HD-DVD player!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 has to be the perfect processor for this player. Hi-rez audio over HDMI, Proper deinterlacing of 1080i over HDMI. Only the D2 AFAIK has exactly what it needs.



Exactly. Perfect timing. Everyone was complaining about the "delays" for the D2 to come out, but the D2 is the ONLY pre/pro on the market that was ready for the Toshiba HD-DVD players. Alot of people should remember that...


Alot of delays, yes... but still in front of all the other high-end companies building pre/pros out there. Lexicon, Theta, Parasound, Intgra Research, Rotel and all the rest. Not a single one of those was ready for HD-DVD. Only Anthem... ready with HDMI 1.1 AND real 1080i de-interlacing.


And there is also not a single receiver on the market, with video processing (HDMI switching and the like), that was ready. There is not a single receiver out there that can properly deinterlace 1080i.


----------



## Dinger23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, I've got my HD-DVD player but only a D1!
> 
> 
> I'm about to start taking hostages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The D2 has to be the perfect processor for this player. Hi-rez audio over HDMI, Proper deinterlacing of 1080i over HDMI. Only the D2 AFAIK has exactly what it needs.
> 
> 
> Ken
> 
> (will work for D2 upgrade)



Can't the D1 be upgraded with all the features of the D2 or are they only upgrading by putting in the HDMI and no scaler?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dinger23* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can't the D1 be upgraded with all the features of the D2 or are they only upgrading by putting in the HDMI and no scaler?



The D1 will be exactly like a D2 after the upgrade... the only thing "missing" will be the logos on the front plate.


----------



## KenLand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dinger23* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can't the D1 be upgraded with all the features of the D2 or are they only upgrading by putting in the HDMI and no scaler?



Exactly, but noone is telling me where and when to send my D1 + check to get the upgrade. And LEVESQUE won't even help me, even though I've been the biggest supporter here on the forum.










(other than him and Kris of course, but they're different)


Ken


----------



## fhoude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dale Adams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question: Does the D2 accept a PAL or 576i input?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure for now. But since they want to reach the european market, I would think so. I will ask Nick monday morning. But I think it does.
Click to expand...


Hi,

I'm FRENCH and it's been a long time since I expect the AVM 10-20-30... D1 and now D2 or AVM 50 to reach the european ground...

Do you have any information regarding beeing compatible with European requirement such as 110-220v support, Pal video...

Regards









FRED


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fhoude* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Do you have any information regarding beeing compatible with European requirement such as 110-220v support, Pal video...



Yes. I did confirm with Nick and the D2 does accept a PAL or 576i input.


Si le D2 t'intéresse, il m'a d'ailleurs fournie les coordonnées du distributeur d'Anthem en France:


Distributor: HAMY/sound

Contact: Pierre Chabert

Phone: 01 47 88 47 02

Fax: 01 47 89 48 72

Email: [email protected] 

Website: www.HAMYsound.com


----------



## fhoude

Excellent !!

Thanks LEVESQUE !

I'll Email this man asap.

FRED


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 has to be the perfect processor for this player. Hi-rez audio over HDMI, Proper deinterlacing of 1080i over HDMI. Only the D2 AFAIK has exactly what it needs.
> 
> 
> Ken
> 
> (will work for D2 upgrade)



Ken.. I'll let you know on Friday











LEVESQUE - I'll finally have you beaten with a piece of gear


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes it can and it will. The D2 can output its scaled video in either Component or HDMI. In fact, if you are using the HDMI or Main Component outputs for Zone 1, you can even output a second processed output via the second set of Component outs.
> 
> 
> You've got quite a few options here.



Is the above true even if the source is HDMI? If so Anthem would be in violation of the HDCP license, which I doubt.


----------



## KenLand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ken.. I'll let you know on Friday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LEVESQUE - I'll finally have you beaten with a piece of gear



I'll be happy to hear how it goes, but Kris Deering has beat us all to it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...35#post7498135 


The D2 is really strutting its stuff. The Tosh with at least some of the release titles is having audio problems/oddities over Toslink, Coax, and even 5.1 analog but... NOT OVER HDMI INTO THE D2







'Tis all niceness over HDMI 1.1.


I think I'm going to write an auto mailer to ask Nick how the upgrades are coming about 10X a day










Ken


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Yes, even with HDMI sources, you can view them processed through Component Output or HDMI output from the D2 to a monitor for Zone 1. For Zone 2, you have the additional option of utilizing a second set of Component Outputs for just simply Zone 2 (Unprocessed), or Processed Main Zone...this might be nice if you wanted to A/B test the difference between your HDMI output with processed video and your Component output with processed video, on the same TV, including the abliity to freeze frame, picture in/on picture, or at least flip back and forth between inputs, to get a feel for PQ.


I cannot comment on any violation of HDCP as I haven't read the specs, though it strikes me that there is nothing Wrong(TM) with what Anthem is doing by allowing a second set of Component outputs for various inputs. After all, that is the entire concept of a multizone pre-amp, in this case, 3 audio/video zones plus Record. There are plenty of AV receivers that allow multiple sources, including HDMI, to be output over Component or HDMI, etc. It is called video transcoding I believe, and there are several folks doing it.


Perhaps I misunderstood the question?


----------



## obie_fl

Let me get this straight if I hook up my Pioneer 79AVi via the HDMI at 480i to the D2 and output it via component at 1080i/720p to an analog display it will work? If so this is a first for a video scaler and definitively a violation of HDCP. I don't see how the HDCP handshake would get validated unless the D2 is "cheating".


(EDIT) Can you point me to another device that can take an HDMI/HDCP source and output hi-res component? This flys in the face of everything I have encountered regarding HDMI/HDCP. HDCP is supposed to shutdown any component output if the source is HDCP.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Let me get this straight if I hook up my Pioneer 79AVi via the HDMI at 480i to the D2 and output it via component at 1080i/720p to an analog display it will work? If so this is a first for a video scaler and definitively a violation of HDCP. I don't see how the HDCP handshake would get validated unless the D2 is "cheating".
> 
> 
> (EDIT) Can you point me to another device that can take an HDMI/HDCP source and output hi-res component? This flys in the face of everything I have encountered regarding HDMI/HDCP.



Ahh, now that I slow down and read thoroughly, I'm not 100% sure of the answer to your question. Sorry about that. I know that in order for Zones 2, 3 and Record to have independent switching of all source components, they need to be connected via the same input connection as they will output. What I don't know, is whether Zone 1 has to live by the same rule. If so, then your suspicions are correct, you would need to also connect the 79avi via Component as well as HDMI in order to take advantage of both outputs.


By the way, the D2 manual makes note that if your ONLY connection is HDMI from a source, and if the source material is copy-protected with HDCP, then you will ONLY have HDMI video output active at that moment.


What makes this confusing in my case is that I utilize every available video and audio connection from every source I have to the D2, because I am using it as the centerpiece of a 3 Zone house system. So, in my case, my 79avi is connected via HDMI, Component, SVideo and Composite video to my D2. I am outputting 480i to the D2, and letting the D2 output processed video via HDMI for Zone 1, Unprocessed Component for Zone 2, Composite for Zone 3, and SVideo for the Record Zone.


Not sure this helps you out at all yet, but I wanted to clarify my earlier post. I know it will take a Component input and process it and output it via HDMI, but not sure if it works the other way around.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> By the way, the D2 manual makes note that if your ONLY connection is HDMI from a source, and if the source material is copy-protected with HDCP, then you will ONLY have HDMI video output active at that moment.



Ahh now that makes sense...you were getting my and all the other CRT FPTV owners hopes up.







I suspect if your only source is HDMI you will get nothing on the component of any zone. The trouble is I've yet to see an HDMI device that didn't have HDCP enabled.


----------



## fhoude

Hi,

I read many post with the D2 but I did not find so much about the new Digital Image Processing.


I have a Vigatec V1280 right now that feed an analogic Barco Cine7 and I'm wondering how the D2 perform regarding to this stand alone scaler.

Is there any test that compare the D2 Scaler and another Scaler ? (even if not the Vigatec)


Also perhaps I miss anything but, I'm wondering if the D2 could convert HDMI to Component (I dont know if it look better than direct component feed) and also could we scale a component input and output the result on the component Out ?

Exemple: Input(component 480P) output(component 720P)


YC could be scaled but not the Composite if I read the manual well enough


I also want to know the delay between input & output. As a Gammer myself I love playing various consoles but V1280 insert to much delay and the PAD controller does not match what you seen on the screen... Sometime we need reflex in games and to many delay kill the Gameplay










In fact I want to see if this vigatec coud be replace or not.

D2 is pricy so...


Regards,

FRED


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ManWithAPlan_ By the way, the D2 manual makes note that if your ONLY connection is HDMI from a source, and if the source material is copy-protected with HDCP, then you will ONLY have HDMI video output active at that moment.



So... will the HDMI _Audio_ still be able to output from the HDCP copy protected source, and if so will the D2 let you listen to the audio from that HDMI input and view the video from another (component) input at the same time?


(and yes, us component input only HDTV owners are desperate to stay current!)


----------



## tarichar

I got my D2 yesterday with no wait. I called my out of state dealer on Thursday to ask when he might get a D2 in. He said that he had several on order and one had just arrived. He put it in the mail that day and I got it yesterday.


We haggled a bit on price but he has always treated me fairly. I traded in my AVM 20 and a PS Audio P600 and paid less than half the list price for the D2.


It took me about 45 minutes to set it up. I have three main video sources, my high definition cable box, an Arcam FMJ DV27 DVD player, and my XBOX 360. The scaler is awesome. My DVD's look much better than I remember, even than what I remember with my top of the line Lumagen scaler. High Definition is improved as well. Standard Definition is a little softer with the processing engaged, but again this is what you would expect. The best thing is that I now have only one cable to my TV, and don't have to switch inputs going from standard def, 480P, or 1080i.


Overall I am very happy with my unit.


Troy


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So... will the HDMI _Audio_ still be ouput from the HDCP copy protected source, and if so will the D2 let you listen to the audio from that HDMI input and view the video from another (component) input at the same time?
> 
> 
> (and yes, us component input only HDTV owners are desperate to stay current!)



HA! Understood. I believe the answer is yes, it will allow you to use HDMI input for the audio from a given source and match it with a particular video input for that source, including Component.


If I get some time this weekend, I will switch things around a bit and test this theory.


----------



## obie_fl

Two hurdles I can see for HDMI audio with component video.


1. Most sources shutdown the component outputs once the HDMI interface is connected and verified.

2. Can the D2 provide the HDCP handshake without a HDCP display attached? Video scalers are called repeaters in HDCP talk, I'm not sure if this also applies to receivers and Pre/Pros. The D2 may be able to be the "display" for audio.


Notice the catch 22 here? If #2 is true #1 will kick in







It will be interesting to see what you find out ManWithAPlan, thanks for all the info.


----------



## tarichar

This is a copy of the email I sent to Anthem regarding transcoding from HDMI to component. This may answer some questions.



Subject: Question for nick regarding video transcoding on new D2 Nick


I am about to purchase a D2. Can I run an HDMI signal from my DVD player into the D2, and have it output a component signal to connect to my TV. I have an older Mitsubishi TV with only Component and Firewire High Definition inputs, but want to use the better and simpler HDMI connection to connect my DVD to the D2

Thanks Troy


Hi Troy, Not allowed if there's copy protection. If an analog input has Macrovision, it can be converted to digital outputwith HDCP, but not the other way around. If the DVD isn't copy protected, then HDMI input can turn into analogoutput, but if it came from Hollywood, assume it's copy-protected. Nick


----------



## obie_fl

Troy - Thats what I expected and I've yet to come across an HDMI device without HDCP enabled. Thanks for the added info.


----------



## fhoude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tarichar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Troy, Not allowed if there's copy protection. If an analog input has Macrovision, it can be converted to digital outputwith HDCP, but not the other way around. If the DVD isn't copy protected, then HDMI input can turn into analogoutput, but if it came from Hollywood, assume it's copy-protected. Nick



OK so HDMI to Component possible but only if HDMI is not copy protected.

Do you know if we can scale Component Input to Component Output?

(Exemple: 480p Component to 720p Component)


FRED


----------



## fhoude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tarichar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got my D2 yesterday with no wait. I called my out of state dealer on Thursday to ask when he might get a D2 in. He said that he had several on order and one had just arrived. He put it in the mail that day and I got it yesterday.
> 
> ...
> 
> It took me about 45 minutes to set it up. I have three main video sources, my high definition cable box, an Arcam FMJ DV27 DVD player, and my *XBOX 360*. The scaler is awesome.
> 
> Troy



Hi Troy,


Regarding the XBox360, I'm wondering if you notice any delay between the input (your controler) and the display... I mean, the digital video processing takes more or less time and sometimes, if delay is too long, game turns unplayable since you react to something that already happend "long" time ago...

I detect this problem with my Vigatec VG1850 Scaler and a Shooter... delay is about 8 frames at 60hz (0.13s)


FRED


----------



## fhoude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tarichar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The scaler is awesome. My DVD's look much better than I remember, even than what I remember with my top of the line Lumagen scaler. High Definition is improved as well.
> 
> Troy



Good to hear that since the Lumigen is supposed to be a very good scaler...

FRED


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fhoude* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK so HDMI to Component possible but only if HDMI is not copy protected.
> 
> Do you know if we can scale Component Input to Component Output?
> 
> (Exemple: 480p Component to 720p Component)
> 
> 
> FRED



Yes indeed you can.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fhoude* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Troy,
> 
> 
> Regarding the XBox360, I'm wondering if you notice any delay between the input (your controler) and the display... I mean, the digital video processing takes more or less time and sometimes, if delay is too long, game turns unplayable since you react to something that already happend "long" time ago...
> 
> I detect this problem with my Vigatec VG1850 Scaler and a Shooter... delay is about 8 frames at 60hz (0.13s)
> 
> 
> FRED



Fred, I also have an XBOX 360 and I can tell you there is no noticable lag at all. I play mostly racing games, and the slightest delay would plant me in the wall far too much for my liking  So, I can tell you, no lag at all in my case at least.


----------



## fhoude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Fred, I also have an XBOX 360 and I can tell you there is no noticable lag at all. I play mostly racing games, and the slightest delay would plant me in the wall far too much for my liking  So, I can tell you, no lag at all in my case at least.



Hi ManWithAPlan,

That's sounds/looks good indeed









Thanks for your two answer !!

FRED


----------



## tarichar

I just hooked my new D2 up last night and went thru my different video sources to check out the pictures.


With the XBOX360, I watched the Oblivion intro and it seemed fine but did not do any playing. I don't think a delay would be a problem with a game like Oblivion though it could show up with a first person shooter like Perfect Dark or Call to Duty2, especially if you are playing online. I'll check it out tonight.


Troy


----------



## jgbden

I placed my order through a local dealer (Cherry Creek Audio in Denver) on April 3. They told me at that time it would be here within 1 1/2 to 2 weeks. Today I found out it hasn't even shipped yet and that it is still 2 weeks away from shipping from Anthem - 4 weeks total.


Aside from being ticked off that I didn't get honest info from the dealer, I'd be interested in hearing what lead times others are encountering.


----------



## tarichar

I called my dealer and got my D2 the same day, and for half list price no less. Truthfully, it shipped out from his shop the day I called to see if he had one, and it took me 3 days to get it as it was in the mail, but if I lived close to him I could have picked it up that day.


I guess I just got lucky, and I also have a great dealer who I've bought many things from over the years.


Troy


----------



## Capfacsurf

Same day on a D2? Who is your dealer? I was going to upgrade my D1, but why wait......


----------



## tarichar

I use Kevin Deal at Upscale Audio. He let me trade in my AVM20 and gave me what I payed for it. He always does this and has been very loyal thru the years.

Tell him Troy Richards sent you. www.upscaleaudio.com 


Troy


----------



## gostan

I ordered the D2 last Monday and it arrived yesterday. I was hoping for a Friday delivery, but then none of the yard work would have got done.


I will probably not be able to find the time to properly recalibrate the video until this weekend as I have been tweeking the audio readying for some A-B comparisions. No leaf raking this weekend.


----------



## mlbrand

I ordered my D2 today, though the dealer was not sure exactly how long it would take for delivery, but said that around two to three weeks is normal. This is going to be a long two weeks (or more). I'll have to live vicariously through this forum until then!


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tarichar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I called my dealer and got my D2 the same day, and for half list price no less. Truthfully, it shipped out from his shop the day I called to see if he had one, and it took me 3 days to get it as it was in the mail, but if I lived close to him I could have picked it up that day.
> 
> 
> I guess I just got lucky, and I also have a great dealer who I've bought many things from over the years.
> 
> 
> Troy



Troy.. you didn't mention (in this reply) that you traded in some gear for that price... you're going to get a lot of people mad at their dealers for not matching your deal


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jgbden* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I placed my order through a local dealer (Cherry Creek Audio in Denver) on April 3. They told me at that time it would be here within 1 1/2 to 2 weeks. Today I found out it hasn't even shipped yet and that it is still 2 weeks away from shipping from Anthem - 4 weeks total.
> 
> 
> Aside from being ticked off that I didn't get honest info from the dealer, I'd be interested in hearing what lead times others are encountering.



I finalized my order today, and I was told to expect it by next Friday at the latest, probably Wed or Thurs with 3 day air... Hate to speculate, but it sounds like the dealer didn't even place the order, and a little birdy told me two weeks ago that all backorders were filled back then, so any current orders should have shipped already...


----------



## tarichar

_"Troy.. you didn't mention (in this reply) that you traded in some gear for that price... you're going to get a lot of people mad at their dealers for not matching your deal_ "



Sorry about that. I had traded in a PS Audio powerplant and AVM 20 (both of which I had previously purchased from that dealer) towards the D2. In addition, I have known my dealer for many years having purchased many high end stereo products from him. In fact, he trusted me enough to mail me the D2 the day I purchased it, despite the fact that I wouldn't be able to ship him back the AVM20 and PS Audio unit for about 4 days. He told me "No problem, take your time to make sure the units are packed well, and send them back when you get the chance."


What I'm trying to say is that you must support of your local dealer if you wish to foster a relationship that will allow you to be able to make transactions that are mutually beneficial for both of you.


----------



## gostan

Has anybody run in to an issue connecting the Pioneer DV79-AI vis HDMI to the D2. No HDMI connection shows up in the player menu when connected through the D2 vis HDMI. The player works fine via HDMI when connected directly to my monitor. I have tried different HDMI cables and inputs, with no luck. And my DirecTV HD10-250 runs fine through HDMI in and out of the D2.


The Pio is only 7 or 8 days old and Nick suggests that it may be a player issue and that I should try swapping the player out for another unit.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anybody run in to an issue connecting the Pioneer DV79-AI vis HDMI to the D2. No HDMI connection shows up in the player menu when connected through the D2 vis HDMI. The player works fine via HDMI when connected directly to my monitor. I have tried different HDMI cables and inputs, with no luck. And my DirecTV HD10-250 runs fine through HDMI in and out of the D2.
> 
> 
> The Pio is only 7 or 8 days old and Nick suggests that it may be a player issue and that I should try swapping the player out for another unit.



Stan,


I have the same equipment. Are you able to see the HDMI Settings under "Initial Settings" in the 79avi? If so, are they set for 480i, 10-bit Component, and Auto for Audio? When you load a DVD and press play, does the red HDMI logo emblazened on the front of the 79avi light up and glow red? I assume you have the D2's Source Settings for DVD set up correctly? With HDMI as the Scaler Input, and Repeater set to Yes?


Let's start with that, and go from there. I am connected the exact way you are, and all is well. It could be your player is bad, but let's rule out some things first.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Stan,
> 
> 
> I have the same equipment. Are you able to see the HDMI Settings under "Initial Settings" in the 79avi? If so, are they set for 480i, 10-bit Component, and Auto for Audio? When you load a DVD and press play, does the red HDMI logo emblazened on the front of the 79avi light up and glow red? I assume you have the D2's Source Settings for DVD set up correctly? With HDMI as the Scaler Input, and Repeater set to Yes?
> 
> 
> Let's start with that, and go from there. I am connected the exact way you are, and all is well. It could be your player is bad, but let's rule out some things first.



The D2 DVD source settings are set correctly with HDMI as the scaler input, etc. When HDMI out from the 79avi is connected into the D2 the HDMI settings in the 79avi under Initial Settings are greyed out and not available for modification. I cannot get into the HDMI screen to change the resolution, aspect ratio, coulour, video memory and audio. The red HDMI logo on the front of the player does not light up at all.


One Additional Question: In addition to analog 5.1, Are you also running a digital coax or optical cable from the 79avi into the D2? I am running a digital coaxial cable as well. I was just thinking that since HDMI 1.1 is video and audio capable into the D2 that there might be an audio conflict issue interfering with the ability of the HDMI connection to link the video and audio between the two.


Again, when I bypass the D2 and connect HDMI out from the 79avi direct to my monitor I am able to see the HDMI settings on the 79avi and the red HDMI light is on.


Thanks for your help.


----------



## dsm363

Has anyone with a Sony 9100ES DVD player been able to get video to work over HDMI? Nick at Anthem said a few other people had had similar trouble.


----------



## THX Mode

Hey Guys,


Got my D2 last Thurs. It is indeed impressive. I also found that it sounds a lot smoother than my D1.


I've got it hooked up to a Marantz DV-8400 DVD at 480i and going to an Epson Cinema 500 Dreamio Projector.


As the projector is a 720p but WXGA at 1366x768 .. should I set the Anthem VXP to that instead of 1280x720 60fps?


Loving the piece!!


----------



## nethomas

THX, I am courious why it would sound smoother than the D1. Isn't it the same audio circuitry as the D1? Thanks

NETHOMAS


----------



## THX Mode

I guess it comes down to the software... 1.00 version on D2 vs. 1.12 on D1


Having both - I A/B'ed them on the same system ... your mileage may vary .. but that's what I can hear


----------



## Blaine

So since this is a tweak thread - my ISF calibrator is going to show up in a few hours. Any ideas of some D2-specific tweaks I should ask him about? Any source material I could run past him?


My video path (all HDMI) is Pioneer 79AVi->D2->Mits HC3000U-> VuTec 92" HCBW screen


Stan - you are welcome to stop by my palce and a/b your 79AVi with mine.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 DVD source settings are set correctly with HDMI as the scaler input, etc. When HDMI out from the 79avi is connected into the D2 the HDMI settings in the 79avi under Initial Settings are greyed out and not available for modification. I cannot get into the HDMI screen to change the resolution, aspect ratio, coulour, video memory and audio. The red HDMI logo on the front of the player does not light up at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stan, you don't by any chance have a DVD playing when this is happening? The HDMI settings are only available if you stop the DVD that is playing, and then go into the Home Menu. Just wanna make sure you're not being thrown off by something silly like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> One Additional Question: In addition to analog 5.1, Are you also running a digital coax or optical cable from the 79avi into the D2? I am running a digital coaxial cable as well. I was just thinking that since HDMI 1.1 is video and audio capable into the D2 that there might be an audio conflict issue interfering with the ability of the HDMI connection to link the video and audio between the two.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I am not running an optical or digital out from the 79avi at all, only the HDMI out for all video and multichannel audio from DVD-Audio discs. I also connect the 5.1 analog of course, to play SACD's. Your theory could be correct. For testing, I would remove the digital coax cable, and just use HDMI and Analog audio.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Again, when I bypass the D2 and connect HDMI out from the 79avi direct to my monitor I am able to see the HDMI settings on the 79avi and the red HDMI light is on.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> This is a mystery, assuming the above ideas don't lead us anywhere. I'll keep thinking about it though. There is smoke emanating from my brain right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## DoctorO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX Mode* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess it comes down to the software... 1.00 version on D2 vs. 1.12 on D1
> 
> 
> Having both - I A/B'ed them on the same system ... your mileage may vary .. but that's what I can hear



Very curious, this. What type of source and mode did you use in the comparisons--e.g., analog direct, Dolby 5.1 via coax. Or was it HDMI sound via the D2 versus another source mode on the D1??


----------



## mlbrand

From previous posts it appears that I cannot use the HDMI output on the Pioneer 79 AVi if I have only component inputs on my display. (I didn't know that HDCP was active with standard DVDs.)


Since the experts say the Gennum upscales best on SD DVDs with a 480i input, I assume that when properly setting up my 79AVi for component output that I should select Initial Settings>Video Output>Component Out>*Interlace*, and not Progressive, correct?


----------



## Kris Deering

Just an FYI, I have just updated our Video Processor benchmark to include the D2. I plan on following up on this with an article to supplement our D1 review that will go even more in detail including audio, HD processing and more. Enjoy!!!

www.hometheaterhifi.com


----------



## yatchaks

Thank you Kris, a very nice article.


----------



## Blaine

Just finished the ISF session and everything is looking fantastic! My calibrator (Eliab from Avical) was able to point out some very interesting things about the D2. The only problem he was able to come across was a small bit of ghosting (take a look at the woman's right shoulder in the dinner/restaurant scene in DVE - I"ll have to look up the title and time if interested)


That said, I think he was just about amazed how well the D2 handled everything else. We started watching Master and Commander looking for the typical problems he has seen on many many systems. I guess this DVD can really be tough. The D2 apparently really surprised my calibrator how good it was. He had some serious praise for it, and don't forget this comes from a guy that has literally seen hundreds of well setup displays!


Well done Anthem - I'm sure more accolades will follow.


----------



## gostan




ManWithAPlan said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Stan, you don't by any chance have a DVD playing when this is happening? The HDMI settings are only available if you stop the DVD that is playing, and then go into the Home Menu. Just wanna make sure you're not being thrown off by something silly like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> I am not running an optical or digital out from the 79avi at all, only the HDMI out for all video and multichannel audio from DVD-Audio discs. I also connect the 5.1 analog of course, to play SACD's. Your theory could be correct. For testing, I would remove the digital coax cable, and just use HDMI and Analog audio.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I disconnected digital coax and adjusted HDMI audio to HDMI Digital on D2 and no difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> This is a mystery, assuming the above ideas don't lead us anywhere. I'll keep thinking about it though. There is smoke emanating from my brain right now
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Easy, the fire department is on the way.
> 
> 
> Seriously, thanks for helping. I am thinking defective Pioneer. But I will probably take Blaine up on a switch in/out 79-avi in his system as we are only about 20 minutes from each other. That could cinch the deal. But, it if works A-OK in his system, then, my brain will start smoking.
Click to expand...


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blaine* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Stan - you are welcome to stop by my palce and a/b your 79AVi with mine.



Good idea. I will PM you. And I can see your fully calibrated system.


Thanks,

Stan


----------



## THX Mode

PHP Code:


Code:


[CODE]Very curious, this. What type of source and mode did you use in the comparisons--e.g., analog direct, Dolby 5.1 via coax. Or was it HDMI sound via the D2 versus another source mode on the D1??/ 

[/CODE]
On Analog Direct, Dolby/DTS via Toslink, PCM over Toslink


Basically swapped the two of them out - recalibrated - and tested on the same source, settings, and surround modes.


I'm wondering why people find this surprising? I remember back when the AVM20 got it's 1.10 upgrade - the sound changed dramatically from it's previous software rev.


Like I said - your mileage may vary. Having owned an AVM20, D1 and D2 - mine has.....


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blaine* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 apparently really surprised my calibrator how good it was. He had some serious praise for it, and don't forget this comes from a guy that has literally seen hundreds of well setup displays!



Same thing here. MichaelTLV the ISF calibrator was really impressed with the D2, particularly paired with the Sony Ruby.


Everyone should go read Kris Deering review of the Gennum scaler in the D2. I really think Anthem have a winner here!


----------



## Ted W

Where's that review?


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ted W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where's that review?



7 posts up from your post.


----------



## randman

I have the Marantz S3 DLP projector. Like a number of other displays, its DVI input doesn't allow a number of picture/video settings to be changed, so it doesn't have all the controls for tweaking the video that you would need when using Video Essentials. I have a Denon DVD-3910 so I can tweak a number of the video-related settings (e.g. color/hue, etc). Question - seems that the D2 allows you to have all the controls (plus more) for tweaking the video to get the settings right (color, hue, brightness, etc.)?? If so, that would be one really great advantage of the D2.


Also, a general question - for tweaking, would it be better to first tweak the settings (where available) in the display device, and then do the tweaking in the D2?


----------



## Dinger23

I don't want to break any forum rules here so I wont mention any prices. Since the D2 is now out Anthem is discontinuing the D1. According to my dealer, Anthem is making all dealers display the D2. My dealer sold me his D1 that he has been modeling for a great price. Add the price to get the D2 upgrade I will be paying less than MSRP of a D1 for a complete upgraded D1 with the HDMI and scaler


You might want to stop in and see your dealer. You never know


----------



## KenLand

Dinger23,


Congrats on a great deal.


Did your dealer have an idea when the upgrade would be available?


I'd really like to get mine upgraded as well. Having a new HD-DVD player with HDMI 1.1 and no D2 is just plain wrong.










Thanks,

Ken


----------



## Dinger23

He had no idea. He is sending my unit back to have Anthem give it a "tune up" He is going to request at that time to put the D2 upgrade in. He should know more next week.


----------



## gostan

I visited Blaine today to view his ISF calibrated system and to see the results of all of his hard work on his new HT. Congrats Blaine as the combination is really sweet. Just wait until the new amps show up.


I also took the opportunity to swap in my Pioneer DV-79 (HDMI worked perfectly) and I received a double confirmation of my discussions with Nick at Anthem that my D2 is faulty as it will only play one HDMI source. No multiple hdmi switching is available. So, my dealer will be speaking to Anthem on Monday to exchange units.


No question, however, after watching some demos at Blaine's - an ISF calibration with the D2 is money well spent.


----------



## dyates69

Just a quick couple of questions regarding this processor.

Can it be configured to output RGB (rather than YUV perhaps) for a CRT projector?

Does it accept and process a [email protected] signal?

Oh and is it multivoltage compatible?


Thanks


----------



## Blaine

Stan - thanks for stopping by! Sorry that your D2 is going to have to go back










D2 strangeness - I can't get the video out from my SMS-1 to display through the D2. Tried both S-video and composite. Confirmed S-video was configured correctly using the 79AVi. - I think it is because of the low res format from the SMS-1.


D2 tip - if you can't get a device to HDCP handshake with the D2, try turning the "HDMI Repeater" function to "OFF" in the aD2. My Scientific Atlanta HD PVR didn't think that my D2 was HDCP compliant until I toggled this setting.


Randman - my calibrator just did most of the adjustments from the D2. We set the PJ and DVD mostly to default values.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blaine* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> D2 strangeness - I can't get the video out from my SMS-1 to display through the D2. Tried both S-video and composite. Confirmed S-video was configured correctly using the 79AVi. - I think it is because of the low res format from the SMS-1.



Very strange. Maybe Nick at Anthem can give you some suggestions. I don't know why the Velodyne SMS-1 would not carry video in and out through the D2.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dyates69* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a quick couple of questions regarding this processor.
> 
> Can it be configured to output RGB (rather than YUV perhaps) for a CRT projector?
> 
> Does it accept and process a [email protected] signal?
> 
> Oh and is it multivoltage compatible?
> 
> 
> Thanks



From checking the manual:


Yes

Yes

Maybe.. It says the there is a high and low voltage version.. But there is no switch on it to change voltages.


----------



## MarkZ

I have an AVM 20 and I've asked Nick about it's upgradeability. My impression is that it will be possible in "the coming months" to convert this unit to a D2. Price to be determined. Has anyone heard anything back on HDMI 1.3 future implementation?


----------



## Dennis Oblow

The conversion would make it an AVM 50, which is an AVM 30 with the scaler built in, the D2 has a completely different audio section with two processor chips while the other version have one.


----------



## elmac

Hello Everyone

Just Got my D2 after a weeks wait. Here is what I found:

DVD-wow what an improvement

Rogers Cable HD problems

1-hdmi didn't work (using Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD box) looks like no signal out

2-picture is all red/pink looking on component (can't watch it, looks so terrible)

3-I have tried to send all the signals out through component from 480i to 1080i all the same

Need help


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1-hdmi didn't work (using Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD box) looks like no signal out



As Blaine mentioned in an earlier post have you tried turning the "HDMI Repeater" function to "OFF"?


----------



## dyates69




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> From checking the manual:
> 
> 
> Yes
> 
> Yes
> 
> Maybe.. It says the there is a high and low voltage version.. But there is no switch on it to change voltages.



Thanks for that. Sounds good.


Can anyone here pm me an idea of what sort of street pricing I could expect on this unit?


Thanks


----------



## TomHuffman




> Quote:
> 2-picture is all red/pink looking on component (can't watch it, looks so terrible)



This sounds like an incorrect color space setting. Can you switch betwen RGB and YPbBr?


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As Blaine mentioned in an earlier post have you tried turning the "HDMI Repeater" function to "OFF"?



Here is what i get on hdmi

"Your HDTV does not support HDCP

Please disconnect the HDMI connector and use the YPrPb connection to continue watching TV"

HDMI Repeater is not operational for componnent









and picture is terrible on componnent(that only from HD Box, DVDis OK)

Any ideas???????????


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is what i get on hdmi
> 
> "Your HDTV does not support HDCP
> 
> Please disconnect the HDMI connector and use the YPrPb connection to continue watching TV"



My recollection is that this is the identical message that Blaine received on Saturday and when we turned the HDMI repeater from yes to no in the SAT source in number 5 handshaking occured between the Scientific Atlanta and the D2 via HDMI.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My recollection is that this is the identical message that Blaine received on Saturday and when we turned the HDMI repeater from yes to no in the SAT source in number 5 handshaking occured between the Scientific Atlanta and the D2 via HDMI.



Ok Got it working on HDMI#1

Can someone explain to me Y HDMI #2, 3 ,4 are not working

I didn't try #1 till just now

I have #1 input reserved for Bluray disk, and I really wanna to use 2,3, or 4.

Does any one have any ideas y my HD box will only work on HDMI input #1???

Thank you for your help


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also took the opportunity to swap in my Pioneer DV-79 (HDMI worked perfectly) and I received a double confirmation of my discussions with Nick at Anthem that my D2 is faulty as it will only play one HDMI source. No multiple hdmi switching is available. So, my dealer will be speaking to Anthem on Monday to exchange units.



I thin I may have the same problem









only HDMI #1 works for me


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thin I may have the same problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> only HDMI #1 works for me



OK went to the factory today and got brand new off the line D2

Nick is priceless he is the most helpful guy.

Anthem and paradigm factory is big and impressive

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My first unit had HDMI scal/swicher gone

This one works like a charm now I have no problems with picture it looks amazing

I'm a really happy customer now

















Thank you for all your help

another happy anthem owner


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK went to the factory today and got brand new off the line D2
> 
> Nick is priceless he is the most helpful guy.
> 
> Anthem and paradigm factory is big and impressive
> 
> WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> My first unit had HDMI scal/swicher gone
> 
> This one works like a charm now I have no problems with picture it looks amazing
> 
> I'm a really happy customer now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for all your help
> 
> another happy anthem owner



Great for you....Anthem customer service is surely superior. They are shipping a new unit to my dealer, but I am keeping the existing one until the new one show up. Many manufacturers would simply have me ship the existing unit back for repair. Two thumbs up for Anthem customer service.


But, Elmac, between our two D2's, there are at least two units with faulty video switching, which probably should have been caught prior to shipment. I know that these are complicated electonic wonder-machines, but I suspect that all AV manufacturers can benefit from better testing and quality control procedures prior to shiping to the end customers.


It will now only be a few more days before I can recalibrate my entire video and audio system again. The D2 is worth this unplanned detour.


----------



## Spizz




> Quote:
> Just an FYI, I have just updated our Video Processor benchmark to include the D2. I plan on following up on this with an article to supplement our D1 review that will go even more in detail including audio, HD processing and more. Enjoy!!!



Kris what do you prefer using the D2 with a Pioneer 79 at 480i or if you have a Denon 5910 bypassing the Gennum chip and using Denon onboard HQV?


----------



## LEVESQUE

For those searching for Kris Deering's benchmark of the video section of the D2, you can access it directly here:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-b.../V%20Processor


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Great for you....Anthem customer service is surely superior. They are shipping a new unit to my dealer, but I am keeping the existing one until the new one show up. Many manufacturers would simply have me ship the existing unit back for repair. Two thumbs up for Anthem customer service.
> 
> 
> But, Elmac, between our two D2's, there are at least two units with faulty video switching, which probably should have been caught prior to shipment. I know that these are complicated electonic wonder-machines, but I suspect that all AV manufacturers can benefit from better testing and quality control procedures prior to shiping to the end customers.
> 
> 
> It will now only be a few more days before I can recalibrate my entire video and audio system again. The D2 is worth this unplanned detour.



Yes it was a short detour for me and I wouldn't trade my D2 for anything right now









Good luck and let us know when the new unit will arrive


----------



## chas

Pardon my ignorance, but I wanted to make sure I have this straight before I pull the trigger. My dealer only has a D1 to demo. I know that I like the sound that it produces.


I have purchased, but not yet installed (it arrived an hour ago), a Toshiba HD-XA1 player. I was resigned to playing the audio through the analog inputs of my B&K AVR307, replacing my DVD-A player. I planned to wait until HDMI matured and receivers and pre-amps upgraded to HDMA 1.3 and added the advanced audio codecs to their arsenals.


Now, I have read that the D2 "handles" everything except SACD through its HDMI 1.1 connection. Does "handle" mean that I will get the full benefit of DD+ and DTS-HD over eight channels and Dolby True HD over two? Maybe I don't need to wait...


Thanks for any help you can provide.


C.


----------



## uzun

I think current players output only 5.1 PCM streams via HDMI. I'm not sure if the receivers capable of HDMI 1.1 audio processing can actually handle more HDMI input channels than 5.1 or not. I would check into before I assumed anything one way or another, it's quite possible the current HDMI receivers/pre-pros only accept a 5.1 channels of PCM data via HDMI max. I'm 99% sure thats all the Toshiba A1 series will output (in PCM mode), regardless of whats on disc.


----------



## pciav

Page 8 of the D2 manual states that "HDMI also carries up to 8 channels of PCM".


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have purchased, but not yet installed (it arrived an hour ago), a Toshiba HD-XA1 player. I was resigned to playing the audio through the analog inputs of my B&K AVR307, replacing my DVD-A player. I planned to wait until HDMI matured and receivers and pre-amps upgraded to HDMA 1.3 and added the advanced audio codecs to their arsenals.
> 
> 
> Now, I have read that the D2 "handles" everything except SACD through its HDMI 1.1 connection. Does "handle" mean that I will get the full benefit of DD+ and DTS-HD over eight channels and Dolby True HD over two? Maybe I don't need to wait...
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help you can provide.
> 
> 
> C.



chas... to all that have suffered through my numerous posts on this subject in the other forums I am sorry










HDMI 1.3 will in fact carry the DD+/DD THD/DTS MA bitstream IF the discs are authored as Basic... it is very doubtful that this will happen, as you need to use Advanced authoring to mix in commentary tracks and the like...


But even if this is the case, there really is no benefit to having the D2/ssp/receiver decode the format over the player.... I can't think of one reason... HDMI 1.3 will add a wider color space and the ability to shift sync of the audio and video to maintain sync when using a video processor for example... But using the player for decoding shifts the burden of only having to upgrade the player when 8 channel True HD or DTS MA decoders come out.


So yes, HDMI will do 1080p and 8 channels of 24/96 right now.. and I doubt we will see many, if any, 24/192 discs... And when HDMI 1.3 comes out, it's useless unless the content providers author in basic, which I don't see happening.. My .02


I think that the D2 is good to go for at least the next five years... If HDMI 1.3/2.0 offers anything compelling, I am sure they will ge it to us asap..


----------



## pciav

Thanks for a nice summary FilmMixer. Anthem is the only Co. that seems to have thought all of this out in advance and will not be playing catch up. The more I read and research it, the more I am leaning towards a purchase. I have a demo setup for Friday and if all goes well, I am going to be moving up from a Rotel RSP-1098 and Lumagen VisionPro HDP. I have no concerns about the audio end of it all, but want to make sure the VP functionality meets all of my needs. I have become quite used the functionality of the Lumagen, but from everything I am reading after the demo this should be a no brainer. Keep the comments coming and thanks to all for the info.


----------



## FilmMixer

Does anybody know if the D2 automatically compensates for the video processing delay imposed by the scaler?


----------



## pciav

See page 29 of the D2 maual re: Lip Synch Delay. It does not appear to be automatically compensated for and the delay is less than one frame at 24 milliseconds. You can set it manually for each input source.


----------



## THX Mode

So Guys .. Question ...in section 4.1.4 and Section 2 in the manual it talks about Macrovision and HDCP.


I've currently got mine setup with component at the moment - but every movie I play comes across as 'Macrovision Copy protected'


So the Anthem states 480i on it's display - but does this mean that's the most I'm getting from the projector side? Or have I not set something up right?


Once I move to HDMI ... will I be able to scale to 720p with HDCP content?


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX Mode* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So Guys .. Question ...in section 4.1.4 and Section 2 in the manual it talks about Macrovision and HDCP.
> 
> 
> I've currently got mine setup with component at the moment - but every movie I play comes across as 'Macrovision Copy protected'
> 
> 
> So the Anthem states 480i on it's display - but does this mean that's the most I'm getting from the projector side? Or have I not set something up right?
> 
> 
> Once I move to HDMI ... will I be able to scale to 720p with HDCP content?



THX Mode, the display on the front face of the D2 is the perceived output rate of the source, not the signal that is output from the D2. In other words, it is the Input rate coming from the DVD player/XBOX/HD-DVD/VCR, etc., it is not the output rate being sent from the D2 to the display. The output rate from the D2 to the display is dictated by the setting for Video Output in Menu 8 in the Setup menu, and can be confirmed by the "Info" tab on the Gennum menu (you can enter this menu by holding down the number 7 key).


Hope this helps.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes it was a short detour for me and I wouldn't trade my D2 for anything right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck and let us know when the new unit will arrive



The replacement D2 arrived today and it works like a charm. Now this Saturday I can finally recalibrate the video end of my system.


----------



## pciav

Hopefully I will be an owner this weekend. I am having trouble finding a dealer in my area that has one or that is worth dealing with. I have been in contact with Nick @ Anthem, who is extremely helpful, so with a little luck he will be able to get me hooked up with somebody tomorrow.


----------



## THX Mode

ManWithAPlan .. Thanks!


That was exactly what I was looking for.


../TC


----------



## pciav

Can anybody shed some more light on the VP functionality...I know it remembers settings per input, but does it remember Per Resolution/Per Input, in other words does it have separate memories per input for 480i, 480p, 720 & 1080i sources? How does it handle 4:3 material, non-linear stretch? Can I set an input up for instance my Cable HD STB on lets say input one: Can I setup 480i to be 4:3 input with non-linear stretch output with all assoicated settings, Brightness, Contrast, Size, Postion etc. and then setup 720p and 1080i sources as 16:9 and so on and when I switch channels/signals all settings are recalled? I can't imagine it not doing this, but just want to be sure. Any info will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.


PS - Anyone using a Sony DVP-NS975V DVD Player via HDMI at 480i? Any issues?


----------



## TomHuffman

A lot of questions are addressed in the user manual


----------



## pciav

Tom,


Unless I am blind, none of the questions I asked are covered in the manual, but I will check again. Thanks for the help.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can anybody shed some more light on the VP functionality...I know it remembers settings per input, but does it remember Per Resolution/Per Input, in other words does it have separate memories per input for 480i, 480p, 720 & 1080i sources? How does it handle 4:3 material, non-linear stretch? Can I set an input up for instance my Cable HD STB on lets say input one: Can I setup 480i to be 4:3 input with non-linear stretch output with all assoicated settings, Brightness, Contrast, Size, Postion etc. and then setup 720p and 1080i sources as 16:9 and so on and when I switch channels/signals all settings are recalled? I can't imagine it not doing this, but just want to be sure. Any info will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> PS - Anyone using a Sony DVP-NS975V DVD Player via HDMI at 480i? Any issues?



Luckily for me, I don't care for non-linear stretch mode for 4:3 material. I have a DLP front projector, so I don't have to worry about burn-in; besides, I don't want to watch a distorted 4:3 picture. You do bring up an nteresting question, though. In a way, I wouldn't be too upset if it doesn't store per resolution/per input settings... If it did, I'll wind up wanting to tweak it for every possible resolution for every source... and I'll wind up spending all my time tweaking and little time enjoying music and movies. 


You can send an email to Anthem asking them this. Their tech-support (a.k.a. "Nick") is wonderful.


----------



## omegaGray

I'm assembling a 7.1 set-up with a second 2.0 zone in the backyard more or less to listen to whatever I might be watching or listening to inside while attending to the barbie. What amps are people running or might you suggest would complement this for the D2?


Klipsch THX ultra2 speakers in the HT, pieces o'crap outside, more than likely. The Klipsch aren't a done deal, but I'll need functional equivalents insofar as they will be installed in cabinetry.


----------



## tarichar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can anybody shed some more light on the VP functionality...I know it remembers settings per input, but does it remember Per Resolution/Per Input, in other words does it have separate memories per input for 480i, 480p, 720 & 1080i sources? How does it handle 4:3 material, non-linear stretch? Can I set an input up for instance my Cable HD STB on lets say input one: Can I setup 480i to be 4:3 input with non-linear stretch output with all assoicated settings, Brightness, Contrast, Size, Postion etc. and then setup 720p and 1080i sources as 16:9 and so on and when I switch channels/signals all settings are recalled? I can't imagine it not doing this, but just want to be sure. Any info will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> PS - Anyone using a Sony DVP-NS975V DVD Player via HDMI at 480i? Any issues?




Yes, the scaler does remember the stretch and resolution settings including non-linear stretch per each source/input.


Troy


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tarichar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, the scaler does remember the stretch and resolution settings including non-linear stretch per each source/input.
> 
> 
> Troy



Thanks Troy. The problem here is that the settings are remembered per input and not per resolution/input. Each input is global and this limits functionality severely. This mostly affects an input being used with a cable or sat stb that ouputs multiple resolutions (480i, 720p, 1080i) and possibly HD DVD and BluRay (720p, 1080i, 1080p). Brightness, Contrast etc. will all be different with each incoming signal. I want the ability to set these individually for each resolution on the input and have them automatically recalled when the signal is input. Individual calibration per input resolution is pretty basic stuff that I am surprised Anthem overlooked. Hopefully, this is something that will be addressed in a future update.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The problem here is that the settings are remembered per input and not per resolution/input... Hopefully, this is something that will be addressed in a future update.



That's what Nick told me they want to do in an upcoming firmware upgrade. There will be different memory banks for each inputs, just like you want.


----------



## pciav

Thanks for the info Levesque, I was hoping you would chime in. I haven't had a chance to talk to Nick yet. I have only been using the D2 for a couple of days and I am ironing out all of the kinks and making notes of all the issues I am encountering so I can present them concisely.


I won't even talk about the sound, because there is nothing that can be said short of awesome. Out with the Rotel RSP-1098 and in with the D2. The Rotel sounds good, but the D2 sounds great.


Overall the image quality is excellent. It bests my Lumagen VisionPro HDP by a mile. I've noticed a few motion problems here and there, but overall I am very pleased. Feature wise and functionality, the D2 needs some help, and this is where the Lumagen shines. Hopefully with some feedback we can get some things implemented, starting with the per input/per resolution memories.


I have three sources feeding the D2 and out to an NEC 61XM2/S 61" Plasma HDMI > DVI @ NR 1360 x 768 RGB:


First Problem - When I power up, the D2's output is corrupted, everything is green, changing of inputs does not solve or change anything, shutting the display off and re-synching doesn't do anyting, entering the D2 setup menu shows a green background instead of blue. If I change the resolution to 480p, 720p or 1080i, then everything synchs up and goes back to the correct RGB color output. I then have to change the timings again back to 1360 x768 and everything is fine. After doing this I have no further problems until I turn everything off and back on again. I already inverted the synch as this required for + + output that the display requires, so it is not that. There are no problems with the cable as I was using it without issues with the Lumagen and going directly out of the cable box works without problem either. Not sure what is going on here, but will report this to Anthem.


1) Time Warner Cable SA-8300HD Cable Box via Component - I first tried the HDMI output and it worked no problem, I had to turn the repeater off for it to work properly due to a known problem with the HDMI implementation in the SA8300's. The PQ was excellent.


I discovered a problem when I went to listen to music. I turned the D2 on, switched to the CD input, this is where I have my Sonos ZP 80 hooked up to, and the cable box started clicking on and off trying to synch even though I had not turned it on or the video input for it. It seems as if the HDMI port is always active looking for a signal. There was no way to stop it from doing this without rebooting the cable box. This is a real problem as it does this everytime I turn the D2 on. In the meantime, I switched to component until I can report this and get some further info. You would be hard pressed to tell the difference between component and hdmi. The image looks outstanding from both. So I am willing to live with this until there is a fix for this.


2) Toshiba HD-D1 HD via HDMI - well this is what started my interest in the D2 for its Video and Audio capabilities. I had a problem here also in that the D1 would not let me change resolution to 1080i and the picture was not right it was colored magenta. The problem here was the crappy cable Toshiba shipped with the player. After changing the cable, I have had little or no problems with the exception of once when starting up, the color went to this weird magenta color, but switching inputs and coming back seem to fix it. Image and sound quality are excellent, but have not had enough time to fully play here as I have been swapping things in and out and experimenting.


3) Sony DVP-CX777ES DVD via Component, formerly SDI into the Lumagen. I am waiting on a Sony DVP-NS975V to show up to try HDMI @ 480i as the 975 outputs 480i YCbCr 4:2:2. If that doesn't work out, I may try the Pioneer 79, but prefer not spending large dollars on SDDVD right now and would prefer to also pick up a BluRay payer when released. The image quality produced via 480i Component out to the D2 bests my Lumagen VisionPro HDP which I was feeding via SDI. This is not evident in test pattern viewing, but movie viewing is a different story. I can't wait to try HDMI here. Hopefully the Sony 975 will work out and I can save a few dollars, otherwise I will be compelled to try the Pioneer 79.


I'm sorry I can't give any further in depth review right now, but I am trying to figure out all the little things to make this work correctly. I hope Anthem can help on these issues. I'll report as new info is available and hopefully items solved.


----------



## LEVESQUE

pciav.


You should send that post to Nick directly.


----------



## madshi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Overall the image quality is excellent. It bests my Lumagen VisionPro HDP by a mile. I've noticed a few motion problems here and there, but overall I am very pleased.



Would you mind giving us a few more details about this? I'm very interested in your findings. E.g.:


- is film mode also better, or just video mode?

- is scaling better?

- is cadence detection better?


Did you find anything (I'm talking image quality, not features) where you prefer the Lumagen? Any other details worth mentioning?


Thank you!


----------



## Will Binegar

Thanks for sharing your experience with us Phil; please keep us posted


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> pciav.
> 
> 
> You should send that post to Nick directly.



I sent it off to Nick at the same time I posted and spoke with him briefly. He is going to check some things out for me and get back to me.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *madshi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Would you mind giving us a few more details about this? I'm very interested in your findings. E.g.:
> 
> 
> - is film mode also better, or just video mode?
> 
> - is scaling better?
> 
> - is cadence detection better?
> 
> 
> Did you find anything (I'm talking image quality, not features) where you prefer the Lumagen? Any other details worth mentioning?
> 
> 
> Thank you!



To be honest I just haven't had the time to do very much critical viewing. Mostly setup and making sure everything works and taking notes on any problems.


The Lumagen as expected is a much more flexible product and offers a whole lot more in the way of user functions and customization. The D2 is in its initial release and as I stated already needs a lot of help in this department. This will get better as more people get the unit and make feature requests.


It boils down to this for me, the image output from the D2 is better in every way to my eyes. It is sharper, more detailed, less noise, smoother with no banding or solarization. There is definitely less noise and artifacts in the picture. I've done a basic calibration for the sources and not much else. Some things may change as I go along and I will report. I have noticed no problems with film processing at all just a much sharper, more detailed noise free picture. On the video end of it, I have watched some HD Basketball and HD Baseball (baseball both in 1080i and 720p). I've noticed a couple of noise blocks during fast motion with Basketball, but no more so than with the Lumagen. The only other thing I visibly noticed was some moire on an announcers herringbone sport jacket. Other than that, the picture is rock solid. 720p sports ala ESPN seem to have more detail and depth also. SD is SD and no matter what you do looks bad compared to HD. That said, SD is improved also, less artifacts and definitely less jaggies. I mostly watch HD and very little SD, so do not put too much into my opinion here.


That's all I can say for now until the issues I reported above are worked out. If all goes well by the end of the week, I will put the Lumagen VisionPro HDP and the Rotel RSP-1098 up for sale and look towards the future.


----------



## madshi

Thanks.


----------



## Armin2

He Guys,

what about european scart rgb input, can the D-2 handle it? Switch from component input to rgb?

I'm suffering a lot from Zone 1 AV delay compared with my Zone 2 on the Lex-MC12. Living room (z1) and citchen are open without door in between, so i have a big delay.

What about a delay settings for the Zone2 / 3 in the D-2?


Best

Armin


----------



## mlbrand

Will the 1080i picture quality from my satellite box (HD DirecTivo) AND from my Toshiba HD-DVD player be improved going through the D2's scaler, or will the P.Q. be better sent direct to my HDTV inputs?


I am waiting for my D2 to be shipped, (arrives in 2 weeks) so I can't try it myself yet.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Will the 1080i picture quality from my satellite box (HD DirecTivo) AND from my Toshiba HD-DVD player be improved going through the D2's scaler, or will the P.Q. be better sent direct to my HDTV inputs?
> 
> 
> I am waiting for my D2 to be shipped, (arrives in 2 weeks) so I can't try it myself yet.



I have not jumped on a Toshiba HD-DVD Player yet, but my HD channnels cerrtainly appear to be sharper with my HD DirecTivo DVR run through the scaler of the D2 than direct to my HD monitor. I would assume that the same should be true for the Toshiba HD-A1. You will have to try both out with your own eyes when your D2 arrives.


While I used to run my video connections separately, I would assume that the reason you have opted for the D2 is to run all video sources through the D2. Hope that yours arrives sooner than 2 weeks.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Will the 1080i picture quality from my satellite box (HD DirecTivo) AND from my Toshiba HD-DVD player be improved going through the D2's scaler, or will the P.Q. be better sent direct to my HDTV inputs?



The PQ will be improved, but it also depends alot on your display capabilities... Is it accepting 1080p? Is it 720p? Can it accept 1:1 and bypass it's internal video processing? It's a video chain, so it's a little bit tough to know without more details on your set-up.


Almost all the 720p displays and projector out there are doing 1080i to 540p then 720p. The D2 is bringing evrything up to 1080p then downscale to the resolution you want, so you don't loose any resolution because of vertical interpolations.


In my case, the D2 processing is superior to the one in my Sony Ruby. 1080i to 1080p is sharper, cleaner, with less noise and artifacts.


----------



## Sweet

I have been considering the Arcam AV9 as I felt it was more musical than the D1 (and the D2 is unchanged in this regard). It too supports 1080p HDMI x 5. It does not have the impressive scaler function however I was thinking about a separate outboard scaler.


What I am confused about is the HD-True and HD-DTS. Does the Arcam support these as well? I guess what I am really wondering looking for is someone with more technical savy to explain the pros and cons of the AV9 versus the D2.


The differences I see are the greater price, lack of scaler, and superior sonics. Am I missing something?










I can't post a link to the AV9 as I am new here...


----------



## pciav

Arcam and there HDMi implementation in all there current products including the AV9 is a waste of time. It does not do any audio at all. It acts as an HDMI Video switcher only. Save your money and frustration, look elsewhere.


I have listened to the Arcam stuff in the past and it does sound nice, but right now the D2 is a unique product that offers everything one needs to be fully HD compliant via HDMI. The D2 sounds incredible.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> *Originally posted by Levesque* The PQ will be improved, but it also depends alot on your display capabilities... Is it accepting 1080p? Is it 720p? Can it accept 1:1 and bypass it's internal video processing? It's a video chain, so it's a little bit tough to know without more details on your set-up.



My display is a Pioneer 643-HD RPTV, and only does 1080i in HD, and only has component inputs for HD, no DVI or HDMI. This set has been calibrated, and I should add that it is known for and still has an excellent HD picture.

*** It has a PureCinema mode that "detects movie film recorded at 24 frame/second and converts it to 30 frames/second delivering the picture at the same rate as it was recorded". This can be turned on or off.

*** This set also has a "Reference Theater Mode" which can be turned on or off, and the manual says "By cutting video enhancement circuits, the picture becomes more natural and looks filmlike".


I would assume that the PureCinema mode should be turned off, and the Reference Theater mode turned on, to maximize PQ with the D2 video scaler?


This set is only four years old, so I would ideally like to get at least a few more years out of it. However, if the 1080p and HDMI picture quality improvement is significant enough, I may upgrade sooner.


----------



## Sweet

I don't want to beat a dead horse but I just don't get what the advantage of this audio HDMI switching.


Let's assume that system A is composed of a DVD player that puts out HDMI, a D2 and a projector. System B is composed of the same DVD player, an AV-9 and a DVDO VP30.


For system A the audio travels in the HDMI cable on tiny wires to the D2 and then gets switched along with the video stream. For system B the audio passes along coax or optical from the DVDO into the AV9 and is switched via assignable input along with the video stream.



What is the advantage of HDMI audio switching or assignable coax in sytem B? Is audio over HDMI cable that much better than over coax or optical?


----------



## obie_fl

It's not that it is that much better but rather that it can do things coax and toslink can't do. Namely DVD-A, and the new DD+, DD TrueHD and DTS-HD when decoded in the new players.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sweet* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been considering the Arcam AV9 as I felt it was more musical than the D1 (and the D2 is unchanged in this regard). It too supports 1080p HDMI x 5. It does not have the impressive scaler function however I was thinking about a separate outboard scaler.
> 
> 
> What I am confused about is the HD-True and HD-DTS. Does the Arcam support these as well? I guess what I am really wondering looking for is someone with more technical savy to explain the pros and cons of the AV9 versus the D2.
> 
> 
> The differences I see are the greater price, lack of scaler, and superior sonics. Am I missing something?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't post a link to the AV9 as I am new here...



Sweet... The new DD DD+ and THD / DTS HD cannot be carried as bitstreams to the receiver for decoding until 2 things happen:


1, HDMI 1.3

2. Content providers author the discs as basic, which would eleimate commentaries and player sounds, for example.. all of the software that has come out so far is advanced authored, and it probalby won't change...


Current HDMI 1.1 receivers (the D2) can pass 1080p video and HD/BR/DVD player decoded 8 channel 24/96k PCM audio... IMO, HDMI 1.3 offers no advantages, and even if new procs and recievers can decode the new codecs, unless the content providers support it, it won't matter... the players now and in the future will do it for you... don't get too caught up in the promise of this new spec.. gear makers have to find a new way to see you gear










Regarding the AV9, it cannot process video over HDMI at all... it is simply a switcher and does no upconversion from non HDMI sources.. And from reading the lit, it looks to be 1.0, and it looks to only do video over HDMI..


I think that the D2 is a fantastic product that offers a lot of bang for alot of buck







The AV9 with a scaler that can match the D2's (and afaik there aren't many) will be more expensive, but if the audio quality of the Arcam is that much better for you, even without HDMI audio, then the choice should be easy for you, but I think you'll be missing out on some cool stuff.. My .02


----------



## Spizz

LEVESQUE- Do you know if Anthem are planning on offering any Room EQ like the audyssey Room Correction?


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spizz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LEVESQUE- Do you know if Anthem are planning on offering any Room EQ like the audyssey Room Correction?



While I am not Alain, I can tell you that Anthem is working on something along these lines for the future. Just no dates or details as of yet.


----------



## gostan

Another audio benefit of the D2.


For the first time, with the D2, I am now able to utilize the balanced outs from my Cary CD303/300 in to the D2. I know that there is not supposed to be any great difference in sound ability between RCA and XLR interconnects, but that is not what my ears are telling me. The 2 channel analog direct balanced inputs of the D2 are a nice design touch, which do not get to many comments due to the D2's video abilities. More higher end pre pro's should include this ability.


----------



## gostan

Question For any D2 & Toshiba HD-A1 owners. Have you compared the DD+ v. DD or DTS audio from the initial HD movie releases? And, if so, do the DD+ soundtracks sound better or different than the standard DD or DTS soundtracks? I am curious as initial reports call for the Blu-ray players to offer none of the advanced HD audio streams.


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question For any D2 & Toshiba HD-A1 owners. Have you compared the DD+ v. DD or DTS audio from the initial HD movie releases? And, if so, do the DD+ soundtracks sound better or different than the standard DD or DTS soundtracks? I am curious as initial reports call for the Blu-ray players to offer none of the advanced HD audio streams.



The best way I can describe it is it sounds more transparent, rich and full. I compared the SD version of Phantom of the Opera and the HD version; despite the HD version being mastered -10db to low, the HD DVD version sounds better. The bass it tighter and more defined.


Last night we watched the HD version of Doom, I did not see the SD version, but the sound was incredible, very immersive. Bad movie, but great sound. Next up is Apollo 13. I'll compare that to the SD DTS version when I get a chance and report.


----------



## obie_fl

Stan - You may already know this but I'd like to point out that the HD-DVDs do not have a standard DD or DTS track. The Toshiba can re-encode the DD+ as a standard DTS stream though. I have also read that the Blu-ray discs may not have the new formats but will have raw PCM tracks that the D2 should be able to handle.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> *Originally posted by gostan* Question For any D2 & Toshiba HD-A1 owners. Have you compared the DD+ v. DD or DTS audio from the initial HD movie releases? And, if so, do the DD+ soundtracks sound better or different than the standard DD or DTS soundtracks? I am curious as initial reports call for the Blu-ray players to offer none of the advanced HD audio streams.



I don't have my D2 yet, but I do have the HD-A1, and I second the opinion of MUCH better sound quality from the DD+ track from the analog outputs. The audio sounds much more detailed and real. The lower volume sounds, such as birds and crickets chirping, wind blowing, whispers, etc. are much clearer. It seems to add a greater dimension of realism to the films.


However, the LFE bass output is also lower on the DD+ tracks from the analog outs, requiring an increase in your receivers sub db settings. I found that about +3 to +5 db got it back to where it needed to be. The DTS track from the digital outs seem to have normal LFE levels, and not as good S.Q., but still sounds better than the audio from SD DVD's.


----------



## Sweet

Filmixer, just to summarize then:


The advantage of HDMI 1.1 (currently what the D2 has) over coax and toslink is that you can pass HD/BR/DVD player decoded 8 channel 24/96k PCM audio and DVD-A only with the HDMI.


The DD+, HD-DTS, and HD-True will have to wait until 1.3?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sweet* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Filmixer, just to summarize then:
> 
> 
> The advantage of HDMI 1.1 (currently what the D2 has) over coax and toslink is that you can pass HD/BR/DVD player decoded 8 channel 24/96k PCM audio and DVD-A only with the HDMI.
> 
> 
> The DD+, HD-DTS, and HD-True will have to wait until 1.3?



No... the players will decode DD+, DTS-MA And DD THD to PCM and pass it out over HDMI 1.1 or 1.3.. .if the formats are mastered in advanced format, this will be the only way to get it out of the player..... As far as HD DVD is concerned, there will be no great advantage to wait for 1.3... The only missing link right now are decoder chips that do MC THD and DTS-MA.


So, just to drrive it home, you can get DD+ digitally right now with the D2, and get 2 ch THD along with core decoded MC DTS.


----------



## bkwong73

Hey Stan,


How does the Anthem D2 sound as just a 2 channel transport, while using your Cary Audio 303/300 as just a transport?


Or does the Cary sound better as a cd player, and using the D2 as a preamp only?


Thanks, BK


----------



## tonydeluce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't have my D2 yet, but I do have the HD-A1, and I second the opinion of MUCH better sound quality from the DD+ track from the analog outputs. The audio sounds much more detailed and real. The lower volume sounds, such as birds and crickets chirping, wind blowing, whispers, etc. are much clearer. It seems to add a greater dimension of realism to the films.
> 
> 
> However, the LFE bass output is also lower on the DD+ tracks from the analog outs, requiring an increase in your receivers sub db settings. I found that about +3 to +5 db got it back to where it needed to be. The DTS track from the digital outs seem to have normal LFE levels, and not as good S.Q., but still sounds better than the audio from SD DVD's.



Analog sounds better than what? Coax and Optical or HDMI? The HDMI should

sound at least as good as the analog...


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bkwong73* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Stan,
> 
> 
> How does the Anthem D2 sound as just a 2 channel transport, while using your Cary Audio 303/300 as just a transport?
> 
> 
> Or does the Cary sound better as a cd player, and using the D2 as a preamp only?
> 
> 
> Thanks, BK



BK,

I have not yet really had the time to utilize the internal D2 dacs for 2 channel, but I will definitely do so when I get a moment.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> *Originally posted by tonydeluce* Analog sounds better than what? Coax and Optical or HDMI? The HDMI should
> 
> sound at least as good as the analog...



Since I don't have my D2 yet and my current processor (Sunfire TGIV) doesn't support HDMI, I can't listen to the DD+ through HDMI. So with my current setup, DD+ sounds better from the analog outs, as it's the only way I can get true DD+ into my processor.


----------



## FilmMixer

Got my D2 and A5 today.. all hooked up.. I had very little time, but I have one problem, and spent most of the set up trying to fix it...


Display is Ruby Projector... on the projector, all the video is shifted to the left with a black bar on the left side, and a small black bar across the bottom.. Ruby patterns are still dead center, and this happens on all output resolutions.... Alain, Kris, somebody? Help Me!!!!!!


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Display is Ruby Projector... on the projector, all the video is shifted to the left with a black bar on the left side, and a small black bar across the bottom.. Ruby patterns are still dead center, and this happens on all output resolutions....



There is 2 solutions to that "problem" (I had the same phenomena with my Ruby). In menu 8 (Video output) of the D2, go to "f" (sync) and switch it.


Or else, there is a menu ("Signal", then "shift") in the Ruby to move the picture up or down, left or right (it's not keystoning... don,t be afraid). Just move it back in place. That's what I did. It's not affecting the PQ at all.


BTW, it's a 'band-aid" solution just for now, because the "shifting problem" is gone in the latest beta-firmware that should be out soon. No more "shifting" with the latest iteration with my Ruby.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is 2 solutions to that "problem" (I had the same phenomena with my Ruby). In menu 8 (Video output) of the D2, go to "f" (sync) and switch it.
> 
> 
> Or else, there is a menu ("Signal", then "shift") in the Ruby to move the picture up or down, left or right (it's not keystoning... don,t be afraid). Just move it back in place. That's what I did. It's not affecting the PQ at all.
> 
> 
> BTW, it's a 'band-aid" solution just for now, because the "shifting problem" is gone in the latest beta-firmware that should be out soon. No more "shifting" with the latest iteration with my Ruby.



Thanks.. the sync fix didn't work, but I did repo the input. It was weird when I first got the D2 menus up.. they were so fuzzy and bad.. but once the pix came on I was floored.. The Gennum easily outpaces the Ruby's internal scaler....


The HD-A1 looks fantastic... the only problem so far is that this machine suffers from an HDMI error unless you change inputs back and forth after starting to play the disc.. It's a Toshiba problem I guess..


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK went to the factory today and got brand new off the line D2
> 
> Nick is priceless he is the most helpful guy.
> 
> Anthem and paradigm factory is big and impressive
> 
> WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> My first unit had HDMI scal/swicher gone
> 
> This one works like a charm now I have no problems with picture it looks amazing
> 
> I'm a really happy customer now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for all your help
> 
> another happy anthem owner



Hello Everyone

Just an update

Just picked my DV-79AVi, and here is my impression of D2(BTW I paid less than for DV-47Ai SRP)

Picture quality is amazing D2 does a wonderful job with DVD's and HD cable box

Audio is better than my Rotel RSP1098(clean and crisp well balanced over B&W speakers) CD QUALITY is amazing.

D2 was great out of the box already outperform 1098, required min calibration(your usual adjustments for distance, speaker type, room ETC)

picture quality is the best I ever seen coming out of my projector I have tried both setting on PJ 720P and 1080i both are really good( i think 1080i has a small edge in sharpness). Monster INC looks really good on my inexpensive PJ

My next upgrade will be the projector to 1080P because this is a week link right now.

Still playing with all the settings(try this for a day than this for a day and it goes on)

Thank you all for your help


----------



## elmac

I know I forgot something

NO MORE CABLES ALL OVER THE PLACE

ONLY ONE CABLE FROM EACH COMPONENT









HDMI ALL THE WAY!!!!!!!!!


----------



## LEVESQUE

Congrats Elmac!










I know what you mean... 1 HDMI cable only from my Toshiba HD-DVD player HD-A1, and from my Pioneer Elite 79Avi.


----------



## THX Mode

So - finally figured out that I had to disable Faroudja DCDI and other processing on my projector side - to be able to have the D2 put out 720p on it. (Had to do DVD player -480i -- output from D2 to 480i (720x480i) - then I could 'unlock' the projector's film/auto modes and turn off processing there - then switch the D2 back to 1280x720p/60)


Found the D2 to 'brighten' the picture - and as such had to re-calibrate the projector input










Watched GhostBusters 2 (ok it was laying right there from my nephews watching it) - in 720p .. absolutely gorgeous.


... now I'm wondering as to why I should jump on the early HD-DVD bandwagon?...


----------



## dsmith901




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Another audio benefit of the D2.
> 
> 
> For the first time, with the D2, I am now able to utilize the balanced outs from my Cary CD303/300 in to the D2. I know that there is not supposed to be any great difference in sound ability between RCA and XLR interconnects, but that is not what my ears are telling me. The 2 channel analog direct balanced inputs of the D2 are a nice design touch, which do not get to many comments due to the D2's video abilities. More higher end pre pro's should include this ability.



Since balanced connections usually provide a 6 dB boost in the signal that may explain the perceived improvement you hear, since (somewhat) louder generally sounds better.


----------



## dsmith901

Here is my question - is the D2 worth $2k more than the AVM-50?


----------



## THX Mode

"Here is my question - is the D2 worth $2k more than the AVM-50? "


But your asking this on the D2 Thread? ... I'm not sure if the 24/192 upscaling and sum of other parts =$2000 better - but my answer would be yes


----------



## KenLand

I say if you have the money to spend it is worth it. If you don't then get the AVM-50.


I'd estimate its 1-3% "better", but whether that's worth 30% more money is up to the buyer. I went for the D1 which I will upgrade ASAP to the D2.


Ken


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsmith901* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since balanced connections usually provide a 6 dB boost in the signal that may explain the perceived improvement you hear, since (somewhat) louder generally sounds better.



I am A-B'ng trying to equalize the volume level of each and the balanced do sound better, but now I need to determine how much is related to the cable (the balanced and RCA's are both Nordost, but the balanced is two rungs up the Nordost spec ladder) and how much due to the type of connection. That is going to be difficult. But it sure sounds good.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsmith901* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is my question - is the D2 worth $2k more than the AVM-50?



Well, like any home theater/stereo component, the law of diminishing returns applies here, and to some people, $2k is a small price to pay for perceived improvements, while to others, $2k is a big price to pay. As for me, I use my equipment for movies 95% of the time, so I'm not sure if I would be able to appreciate the difference between the two (and this of course depends on other equipment). One thing about the D2, though, is that it has two DSPs, while the Anthem 50 has one. According to Anthem, the two DSPs provide greater power for future potential enhancements, such as the possibiity of room eq enhancement. Anthem's not sure yet if the Anthem 50's existing DSP can handle the processing needed for a future room eq feature. I already have the Velodyne SMS-1 for low frequency EQ, which is the type of EQ that actually works well (since higher frequencies are harder to room-EQ, as evinced by the fact that Meridian and Lexicon room EQs only deal with the lower frequencies).


Anyway, for me, the potential of better future upgradability is a plus for the D2. Of course, they'll be supporting upgrades for their old Anthem 20s to have HDMI, so I supposse the 50s can theoretically be upgraded in the future for future features (but may require more hardware changes if its DSP isn't powerful enough).


So, I'm also on the fence about whether to get the D2 or the 50...


----------



## mcnisiv

I'm still waiting for the upgrade to be announced. It seems like I've been waiting forever.


----------



## dsmith901




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, like any home theater/stereo component, the law of diminishing returns applies here, and to some people, $2k is a small price to pay for perceived improvements, while to others, $2k is a big price to pay. As for me, I use my equipment for movies 95% of the time, so I'm not sure if I would be able to appreciate the difference between the two (and this of course depends on other equipment). One thing about the D2, though, is that it has two DSPs, while the Anthem 50 has one. According to Anthem, the two DSPs provide greater power for future potential enhancements, such as the possibiity of room eq enhancement. Anthem's not sure yet if the Anthem 50's existing DSP can handle the processing needed for a future room eq feature. I already have the Velodyne SMS-1 for low frequency EQ, which is the type of EQ that actually works well (since higher frequencies are harder to room-EQ, as evinced by the fact that Meridian and Lexicon room EQs only deal with the lower frequencies).
> 
> 
> Anyway, for me, the potential of better future upgradability is a plus for the D2. Of course, they'll be supporting upgrades for their old Anthem 20s to have HDMI, so I supposse the 50s can theoretically be upgraded in the future for future features (but may require more hardware changes if its DSP isn't powerful enough).
> 
> 
> So, I'm also on the fence about whether to get the D2 or the 50...



Perhaps you would be better served putting that $2k into room treatment. See this article:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...06-part-1.html


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX Mode* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ... now I'm wondering as to why I should jump on the early HD-DVD bandwagon?...



Because the picture quality and sound quality is unreal maybe?







And because the D2 is a "perfect match" with it?


Seriously. Color richness and saturation, details, black level... Picture quality is better then any SD-DVD player I have ever used before. Sound quality is also more full and involving.


The HD-A1 is a bit clunky, but you forget all those "big problems" really fast while beeing overwhelmed by the awesome picture quality and sound improvement compared to SD. With my system, I'm speechless...


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Because the picture quality and sound quality is unreal maybe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And because the D2 is a "perfect match" with it?
> 
> 
> Seriously. Color richness and saturation, details, black level... Picture quality is better then any SD-DVD player I have ever used before. Sound quality is also more full and involving.
> 
> 
> The HD-A1 is a bit clunky, but you forget all those "big problems" really fast while beeing overwhelmed by the awesome picture quality and sound improvement compared to SD. With my system, I'm speechless...



The sound does seem very good, but I am still testing out the sound quality before running any accolades of DD+ over DD up the flag pole, but, I agree completely that the PQ of the HD player is simply brilliant. As you indicate, the colors and detailing are the most fulfilling that I have ever viewed at home.


By the way, have you compared the upconverting of SD's on the Toshiba in comparison to your Pioneer 79AVi? And, if so, which do you prefer. Although, if they are even close, the Pio will be a more satisfying unit to use when you compare its' ease of use to the Toshiba.


----------



## bkwong73

Hi All,


I have a real need to consolidate and upgrade from current set up. Which is an Enlightened Audio Design Theatermaster Signature preamp/processor, and a Faroudja NR Scaler. Due to it's lack of video switching, and out dated audio capabilities.


I currently have a Pioneer Elite Dv-09, which outputs 480i through component video cables. Would the Anthem D2 be able to use it's ultra cool video processing engine to de-interlace and upconvert to 1080P; as well as a dvd player that outputs 480i through it's HDMI cable.


I love the picture that comes out of the Pioneer Elite Dv-09, plus it cost a pretty penny in it's hay day. Or do I have to buy another dvd player that does 480i through it's HDMI output. I am trying to determine if I can keep my Pioneer Elite Dv-09 player.


Thanks in advance for your input.


Sincerely, BK


----------



## pciav

I have found the component input processing of the D2 to be almost indistinguishable from HDMI. I am still having some issues with getting my cable box to work properly via HDMI so I am using component out of the cable box into the D2. The PQ is rock solid and I really could not tell you which connection was which if I did not know.


I would hook the DVD Player up via component and let your own eyes be the judge for the time being and then keep your eye out for a suitable HDMI repplacement player such as the Pioneer DV-79AVi.


----------



## bkwong73

Thanks Phil, for your prompt response.


Has anyone here successfully used the Anthem D2 with a CRT front projector?


Or is everyone here using a Digital Front Projector with the Anthem D2?


Thanks, BK


----------



## obie_fl

I'm thinking about using the D2 with my CRT FP. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. You wouldn't be able to use the HDMI inputs or output but the component should work. Hopefully someone out is using it on an analog display and will speak up.


----------



## pciav

I haven't tried the component output of the D2, but you shouldn't have any issues. I would've preferred that the component inputs and outputs were BNC instead of RCA, but honestly didn't buy it for its component connections or use.


I have updated things a bit since obtaining the D2. I have three video sources feeding the D2, then out of the D2 via HDMI > DVI @1360 x 768 (Video Levels In and Video Levels Out).

*Display:* NEC 61XM2/S 61" Plasma

*Cable:* Time Warner Cable SA-8300HD - I have this connected via component in as I am still having HDMI issues which I am working with Anthem to resolve. I can get a picture via HDMI and the PQ is fine, but the difference using component is almost non existent. When the HDMI problem is solved I will go back to HDMI for simplicitiy of the single cable hook up.

*SD-DVD:* I was able to pick up a Sony DVP-NS975V DVD Player and I am using it via HDMI as it outputs 480i YCbCr 4:2:2 and the image quality is excellent. For the price I paid, this was a no brainer. I may pick-up the new Oppo when it is released and I am keeping my open for a Pioneer DV-79AVi.

*HD-DVD:* I have the Toshiba HD-D1 (Walmart all black version of the A1) and I am using it via HDMI and so far have not had any major issues. I have not experienced the lock-ups being reported probably because I am not using the Toshiba remote. I am extremely happy with the Picture and Sound Quality.


I really do not have any complaints, just wants. I want more functionality in the VP with the biggest request being Per Input/Per Resolution Memories. I know Anthem is working on this and other things. I believe once the initial HDMI bugs are worked out more functionality is all but a given.


Overall I am very satisfied with the D2. It looks and sounds fantastic. The jump in PQ and SQ from my Rotel RSP-1098 and Lumagen VisionPro HDP is not just incremental, it is substantially noticable. The reason I say this is that my wife commented the very first day we installed the D2 and everyone who had seen and heard my prior setup wants to know what I changed because it looks and sounds so good.


----------



## Ranger620

Anyone here using the gennum scaler with their PS2? I've heard of some problems with the video being fine for the menus but going blank when the game begins. Anyone else have this problem?


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bkwong73* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Phil, for your prompt response.
> 
> 
> Has anyone here successfully used the Anthem D2 with a CRT front projector?
> 
> 
> Or is everyone here using a Digital Front Projector with the Anthem D2?
> 
> 
> Thanks, BK



Sorry I'm Fully Digital Can't help on this one


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bkwong73* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I have a real need to consolidate and upgrade from current set up. Which is an Enlightened Audio Design Theatermaster Signature preamp/processor, and a Faroudja NR Scaler. Due to it's lack of video switching, and out dated audio capabilities.
> 
> 
> I currently have a Pioneer Elite Dv-09, which outputs 480i through component video cables. Would the Anthem D2 be able to use it's ultra cool video processing engine to de-interlace and upconvert to 1080P; as well as a dvd player that outputs 480i through it's HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> I love the picture that comes out of the Pioneer Elite Dv-09, plus it cost a pretty penny in it's hay day. Or do I have to buy another dvd player that does 480i through it's HDMI output. I am trying to determine if I can keep my Pioneer Elite Dv-09 player.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for your input.
> 
> 
> Sincerely, BK



Components Upscaling is as good as HDMI, I have tested my old DVD player on D2 (it could transmit over component 480P to 1080i), when I got 79avi I went HDMI and I have noticed a small difference

It works fine:

Component in to Componnent out with upscaling works No Problem









Hdmi in to comonent out DOSEN'T WORK (I learn that hard way)

Hope this Helps


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I haven't tried the component output of the D2, but you shouldn't have any issues. I would've preferred that the component inputs and outputs were BNC instead of RCA, but honestly didn't buy it for its component connections or use.
> 
> 
> I have updated things a bit since obtaining the D2. I have three video sources feeding the D2, then out of the D2 via HDMI > DVI @1360 x 768 (Video Levels In and Video Levels Out).
> 
> *Display:* NEC 61XM2/S 61" Plasma
> 
> *Cable:* Time Warner Cable SA-8300HD - I have this connected via component in as I am still having HDMI issues which I am working with Anthem to resolve. I can get a picture via HDMI and the PQ is fine, but the difference using component is almost non existent. When the HDMI problem is solved I will go back to HDMI for simplicitiy of the single cable hook up.
> 
> *SD-DVD:* I was able to pick up a Sony DVP-NS975V DVD Player and I am using it via HDMI as it outputs 480i YCbCr 4:2:2 and the image quality is excellent. For the price I paid, this was a no brainer. I may pick-up the new Oppo when it is released and I am keeping my open for a Pioneer DV-79AVi.
> 
> *HD-DVD:* I have the Toshiba HD-D1 (Walmart all black version of the A1) and I am using it via HDMI and so far have not had any major issues. I have not experienced the lock-ups being reported probably because I am not using the Toshiba remote. I am extremely happy with the Picture and Sound Quality.
> 
> 
> I really do not have any complaints, just wants. I want more functionality in the VP with the biggest request being Per Input/Per Resolution Memories. I know Anthem is working on this and other things. I believe once the initial HDMI bugs are worked out more functionality is all but a given.
> 
> 
> Overall I am very satisfied with the D2. It looks and sounds fantastic. The jump in PQ and SQ from my Rotel RSP-1098 and Lumagen VisionPro HDP is not just incremental, it is substantially noticable. The reason I say this is that my wife commented the very first day we installed the D2 and everyone who had seen and heard my prior setup wants to know what I changed because it looks and sounds so good.



Hi Phil, this is a great descriptive summary of the video end of your D2 based system. Too bad there is not a way in which to have a sub-thread here for Anthem owners to post a similar description of his or her video system with connections and comments. I guess we can just intermingle such posts under this thread.


----------



## Boston_Chad

On a related topic, I have a D2 on the way as well as a Panasonic 65" plasma (8UK). I had planned on using an HDMI connection to the display, however my question is this. Since I would like to avoid any image processing in the display in favor of what I believe is the superior capabilities of the D2 should I opt for a Component/RGB connection to the display?


The reason I ask is that my research seems to show that the HDMI input on the panasonic will not take a native 1366X768 signal but the Component/RGB inputs seem to. (According to the manual). So the bottom line is am I better off with native resolution component or non-native hdmi.


Any opinions? (or am I splitting hairs?)


----------



## LEVESQUE

I was looking at my first post in this thread... After almost 2 months on the market, the D2 is still the only pre/pro or receiver with HDMI 1.1 and true 1080i video processing.


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Boston_Chad* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On a related topic, I have a D2 on the way as well as a Panasonic 65" plasma (8UK). I had planned on using an HDMI connection to the display, however my question is this. Since I would like to avoid any image processing in the display in favor of what I believe is the superior capabilities of the D2 should I opt for a Component/RGB connection to the display?
> 
> 
> The reason I ask is that my research seems to show that the HDMI input on the panasonic will not take a native 1366X768 signal but the Component/RGB inputs seem to. (According to the manual). So the bottom line is am I better off with native resolution component or non-native hdmi.
> 
> 
> Any opinions? (or am I splitting hairs?)



I would get the DVI blade for the Panny as it is known to accept its NR of 1366 x 768. Check the Video Processor forum for info on the HDMI blade. I do not beleive there has been too much success in getting it to accept NR, but the DVI card does no problem.


You have to speak to Anthem also and see if there 1366 x 768 timings are Panny friendly. Until Anthem implements user custom timings, you may or may not have a problem trying to output 1366 x 768.


----------



## obie_fl

There is no such thing as native rate on analog component, it is going to get converted to digital in the display no matter what. Phil's DVI recomendation seems to be the way to go if you can.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Cable:* Time Warner Cable SA-8300HD - I have this connected via component in as I am still having HDMI issues which I am working with Anthem to resolve. I can get a picture via HDMI and the PQ is fine, but the difference using component is almost non existent. When the HDMI problem is solved I will go back to HDMI for simplicitiy of the single cable hook up.



Hmm... I had a fairly dramatic difference when I went from component to HDMI on my 8300HD feeding my HDLeeza. Do you know which operating system the 8300 is using, SARA or PASSPORT? I'm guessing Passport since it is TW. What is the actual issue again? Sorry if I missed this earlier.


EDIT: OK I found your old post about the 8300 cycling, I don't see this with my HDLeeza. Were you using the 8300 HDMI with your Lumagen?


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...EDIT: OK I found your old post about the 8300 cycling, I don't see this with my HDLeeza. Were you using the 8300 HDMI with your Lumagen?



Yes I was feeding the Lumagen HDMI > DVI from the SA-8300HD without issue. I have given complete info to Anthem and they are aware of the issue as I am not the only one. By the way it is Passport and not Sara.


The picture looks fine via HDMI, but I can not live with the cycling issue. Being 100% honest, the difference between component and hdmi is minimal at best and you would be hard pressed to tell the difference without knowing which is which.


----------



## TomHuffman




> Quote:
> On a related topic, I have a D2 on the way as well as a Panasonic 65" plasma (8UK). I had planned on using an HDMI connection to the display, however my question is this. Since I would like to avoid any image processing in the display in favor of what I believe is the superior capabilities of the D2 should I opt for a Component/RGB connection to the display?
> 
> The reason I ask is that my research seems to show that the HDMI input on the panasonic will not take a native 1366X768 signal but the Component/RGB inputs seem to. (According to the manual). So the bottom line is am I better off with native resolution component or non-native hdmi.
> 
> Any opinions? (or am I splitting hairs?)



If I am not mistaken, the optional DVI input on the Panny does support the native resolution. HDMI to DVI adaptors are cheap.


3 things to consider.

1. Does the video source output a better better picture via digital or component? In principle digital should always be better, since it would avoid an additional analog-to-digital conversion, but experience has shown otherwise. Sometimes component just looks better.

2. It's always better to bypass the display's scaler if you have a good outboard scaler (which the D2 is), so inputting the native rate into the Panny would be advisable.

3. And, yes, you are splitting hairs, but anyone who spends $6500 on a prepro/scaler is pretty much by definition a hair-splitter. This entire forum subsists on hair-splitters who are trying to wring out the last bit of performance from their gear.


----------



## bkwong73

The only concern I have with the Anthem D2, is that I am not sure if it will work very well with a 9" CRT. Like the Marquee 9500LC or G90. The sales manager at the retail store that I was looking at, has a CRT. And he said that since the Anthem D2 lacks RGB-HV, it would be difficult to use with a great analogue projector like the above mentioned CRT's.


What do you guys think, especially the CRT front projector users that have or is considering an Anthem D2?


Thanks, BK


----------



## Boston_Chad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I am not mistaken, the optional DVI input on the Panny does support the native resolution. HDMI to DVI adaptors are cheap.
> 
> 
> 3 things to consider.
> 
> 1. Does the video source output a better better picture via digital or component? In principle digital should always be better, since it would avoid an additional analog-to-digital conversion, but experience has shown otherwise. Sometimes component just looks better.
> 
> 2. It's always better to bypass the display's scaler if you have a good outboard scaler (which the D2 is), so inputting the native rate into the Panny would be advisable.
> 
> 3. And, yes, you are splitting hairs, but anyone who spends $6500 on a prepro/scaler is pretty much by definition a hair-splitter. This entire forum subsists on hair-splitters who are trying to wring out the last bit of performance from their gear.




Thanks Phil Tom and Tom. Your responses were very helpful. I have an email into Anthem on the timing at 1366X768.


I'm looking forward to getting the video portion of my theater up to spec and as you can guess the Panny is my first digital display. I currently have a Runco rear projection CRT with a Faroudja scaler and they look great (WHEN THEY WORK). Major emphasis on the last three words. Having video processing on board the pre/pro was a major selling point for me on the D2. Can't wait!


Cheers


----------



## yatchaks

I just recieved a call from my dealer telling me my AVM-50 is in! I'm pretty geeked and thought I'd start the official thread before I break the speed limit going to and from my dealer. If I can remove myself from my new toy today, I will post some thoughts later tonight.


ps..This is the first time I have posted an "official" thread, what a bonus!


----------



## musica

yatchaks - Congratulations! Can wait to read your "review". What is the AVM50 replacing?


BTW, I'm a very happy owner of an AVM30.


Cheers!


----------



## Nathan_R

Congrats! I see Anthem finally updated their website to introduce the 30/40/50, as well.


----------



## Clepto

Anyone know if Anthem is offering an HDMI 1.3 upgrade to the AVM-50?


----------



## goenkar

Has anyone been able to use the settings editor application with a serial cable into their D2/AVM-50.


I have the AVM-50 and am very pleased with it. However, I have had no luck with getting the settings editor to recognize the receiver.


I have tried 2 separate pc's with 2 sets of cable with no luck. I have an email into Anthem support but was wondering if the D2 folks had any sucess.


Thanks


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone been able to use the settings editor application with a serial cable into their D2/AVM-50.



No problem here using the settings editor with my D2 and my HTPC. Same thing with firmware upgrades. I'm also using it to store my settings on my computer in case something goes wrong.


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone been able to use the settings editor application with a serial cable into their D2/AVM-50.



No issues here using a Dell Laptop and Keyspan USB to Serial Adapter. Make sure you are using a straight through serial cable and not a null modem cable.


----------



## Johnla

There is no HDMI 1.3 to upgrade to yet, so how could they even offer it now?


----------



## goenkar

Did you have to do anything before attempting to connect i.e. change settings in the receiver or PC before connecting.


I have used a USB to serial cable from my laptop and a DB9 m/f cable from my PC and both don't work. I tried with the receiver off and on. Also tried different baud rates.


I was told by Anthem that settings editor is the same for D2 and AVM-50. Let see what tech support says.


Thanks


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes I was feeding the Lumagen HDMI > DVI from the SA-8300HD without issue. I have given complete info to Anthem and they are aware of the issue as I am not the only one. By the way it is Passport and not Sara.
> 
> 
> The picture looks fine via HDMI, but I can not live with the cycling issue. Being 100% honest, the difference between component and hdmi is minimal at best and you would be hard pressed to tell the difference without knowing which is which.



I also have an SA-8300HD with Passport. I'm looking into getting a D2 or 50. Did Anthem give an indication of whether the problem with the 8300HD is in hardware or software (i.e. whether the fix can be done via firmware upgrade or not)?


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did you have to do anything before attempting to connect i.e. change settings in the receiver or PC before connecting.
> 
> 
> I have used a USB to serial cable from my laptop and a DB9 m/f cable from my PC and both don't work. I tried with the receiver off and on. Also tried different baud rates.
> 
> 
> I was told by Anthem that settings editor is the same for D2 and AVM-50. Let see what tech support says.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Nothing special at all. Connected, ran the executable file and it connected. Check your USB to Serial Adapter's assigned com port and make sure it not something out of range that the Anthem software automatically scans for.


From the Anthem Read Me:


"If you are using a USB to serial adapter:


1. Make sure its driver is properly installed. If a Windows message pops up just before driver is installed saying that the driver is not Windows-certified, DO NOT USE IT. Some of these "budget" adapters are known to load funny data into the preamp, causing it to freeze up, which is not covered under warranty.


2. The virtual port must be assigned to COM1 through COM6 for installer to run. If installer can not locate preamp, go to Start Menu / Settings / Control Panel / System / Device Manager. Double-click on Ports, then double-click on the adapter. In Port Settings, if it shows COM7 or higher, change to an available port between COM1 and COM6."


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also have an SA-8300HD with Passport. I'm looking into getting a D2 or 50. Did Anthem give an indication of whether the problem with the 8300HD is in hardware or software (i.e. whether the fix can be done via firmware upgrade or not)?



No and I am not sure as I did not have the issue when it was connected to my Lumagen.


Here is exactly what is happening: With the SA-8300 HD off as soon as I connect an HDMI cable and plug it into the Anthem the 8300 turns itself on looking to sync. This appears to be an SA-8300HD problem. After getting it hooked up and turning the display and D2 on I am able to get picture and sound from the 8300 via HDMI @480i, 720p, and 1080i and there are no HDCP hand shake issues, repeater mode in the D2 must be turned off otherwise you get an HDCP error, the standard Your TV does not support...use YPbPr connection. The real problem is that when I switch inputs, to listen to a CD or use another source, the 8300 goes into a manic switching on and off mode looking for a signal. Even if the box is off and I turn the D2 on to the CD input, the 8300 turns itself on looking to sync.


I believe it is a combination of the two. The bad HDMI implementation in the SA-8300HD and something in Anthem's settings related to hot plugging or how inputs are muted etc. All I know is that it worked without issue with the Lumagen, so it is just a matter of Anthem figuring out the how and why.


----------



## zaracsan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just recieved a call from my dealer telling me my AVM-50 is in! I'm pretty geeked and thought I'd start the official thread before I break the speed limit going to and from my dealer. If I can remove myself from my new toy today, I will post some thoughts later tonight.
> 
> 
> ps..This is the first time I have posted an "official" thread, what a bonus!



Congrats on snagging the first AVM-50; not an easy feat to be the first among such an A/V savvy group! I am anxiously awaiting your review and hoping others will soon have more to share here as well.


----------



## bassbone57

The AVM-50 isn't replacing anything, it is basically an AVM-30 with 4 HDMI inputs and an output. It also adds the Gennum VXP chip for scaling up to 1080p. In other words, the basic Anthem version of the Anthem Statement D2. It doesn't have the audio upconverter or dual processors like the D2. The AVM-30 is still current, but can be upgraded to the AVM-50 if you want the VXP chip and HDMI.


-K


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Clepto* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know if Anthem is offering an HDMI 1.3 upgrade to the AVM-50?



I'm not sure that HDMI 1.3 is even finalized yet. It's not on the hdmi.org website.


----------



## FerretHunter

I'm supposed to get my AVM50 on Friday. I don't think I've had a good nights sleep since last Friday when I bought it. Thank goodness its' a long weekend here in Canada. That'll give me some extra time to get to know my Anthem gear. Now, if only Amazon would ship my DVD-Audio disks in time!


----------



## randman

Phil -


Thanks for the info. My SA 8300HD is connected to an HDMI to DVI converter, which in turn is connected to a DVI switcher, which is then connected to my 720p projector. I have had no problems whatsoever with my DVI switcher. If my SA 8300HD is on and I'm watching another source, then switch my DVI switcher to use the 8300HD, everything works. Hopefully, Anthem can resolve this problem soon via firmware upgrade or other workaround. Let us know if you get more information.


BTW - my projector is a Marantz projector. It does some processing for video that is connected to its component inputs (I believe with its built-in Faroudja chip which isn't ideal for high-def sources). However, it doesn't do the same processing for sources connected to its DVI input. Thus, for high-def sources, the DVI input looks better than the component input. This is why it's important for me that the HDMI work with the SA 8300HD (unlike with your setup, where component and HDMI inputs look similar... I suppose the D2 can convert component to HDMI output, which I would send to my projector, but I would prefer not to go that route).


Thanks!


----------



## elmac

Phil, I don't have that problem,

When I switch from SA to PIO DVD (all connected through HDMI) there is no problems, and nothing goes crazy.

HDMI should not be able to turn on your components.

This one is an interesting problem


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Phil, I don't have that problem,
> 
> When I switch from SA to PIO DVD (all connected through HDMI) there is no problems, and nothing goes crazy.
> 
> HDMI should not be able to turn on your components.
> 
> This one is an interesting problem



It certainly is interesting and not all SA8300HD's are created equal. It is dependent on the cable system and software running. In my case it is Time Warner Cable with Passport Software. The main problem is with the HDMI implementation and software on my SA8300HD; howver, based upon the fact that I had zero issues when using the HDMI out connected to my Lumagen VisionPro HDP tells me that there is also something different, not necessarily wrong, just different with Anthem's HDMI and HDCP implementation. Hopefully they will figure it out and get it in an upcoming update


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Phil -
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. My SA 8300HD is connected to an HDMI to DVI converter, which in turn is connected to a DVI switcher, which is then connected to my 720p projector. I have had no problems whatsoever with my DVI switcher. If my SA 8300HD is on and I'm watching another source, then switch my DVI switcher to use the 8300HD, everything works. Hopefully, Anthem can resolve this problem soon via firmware upgrade or other workaround. Let us know if you get more information.
> 
> 
> BTW - my projector is a Marantz projector. It does some processing for video that is connected to its component inputs (I believe with its built-in Faroudja chip which isn't ideal for high-def sources). However, it doesn't do the same processing for sources connected to its DVI input. Thus, for high-def sources, the DVI input looks better than the component input. This is why it's important for me that the HDMI work with the SA 8300HD (unlike with your setup, where component and HDMI inputs look similar... I suppose the D2 can convert component to HDMI output, which I would send to my projector, but I would prefer not to go that route).
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I have a Hughes HTL-HD Directv receiver with DVI out... It gave me nothing but problems on the D2.... and it didn't work properly with my old Denon 5805.. But I comapred it DVI - Component through the D2, and the component looks just as good to my eyes... problem solved.. It seems these DVI implimentations are more screwed up than the HDMI ones.. I am not sure how much effort Anthem is going to put in to fixing all of the DVI-HDMI issues.


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...However, it doesn't do the same processing for sources connected to its DVI input. Thus, for high-def sources, the DVI input looks better than the component input. This is why it's important for me that the HDMI work with the SA 8300HD (unlike with your setup, where component and HDMI inputs look similar... I suppose the D2 can convert component to HDMI output, which I would send to my projector, but I would prefer not to go that route).
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Don't worry about not preferring to go that route. If you have to, you will missing very little if anything at all. I have component out of the SA8300HD into the D2 and HDMI out of the D2 for now until the HDMI issue is solved.


I have compared HDMI out Vs. Component out into the D2 numerous times now trying to debug my HDMI problem. The difference is minimal at best and I am hard pressed to tell the difference. Believe me I would put up with my issue if the HDMI out looked that much better, it just doesn't. In the meantime, to me the only thing I am missing is the simpler 1 cable hookup that HDMI allows. Of course I want HDMI to work, but until things get sorted out, things are good for now and I am looking forward to Anthem adding more features.


----------



## musica

bassbone57 - Thanks for the explanation, however, I was trying to find out what pre/pro or receiver is yatchaks replacing in his system with the AVM50.


Cheers!


----------



## Dinger23

good to hear the AVM 50s are out. Puts me closer to being able to upgrade my D1.


----------



## umr

I had a chance to work with a D2 with a Gennum scaler yesterday. It is a nice product, but be careful. In this case only a single combination did not result in scaling problems or level clipping. This is after examining all four format options on the HDMI source format (RGB, RGB Extended, Component, Component 12 bit) to the D2 and all the similar options on the HDMI output from the D2. The magic combination in this case was Component on the input and YCbCr 4:2:2 on the D2. Otherwise, the Gennum appeared to do a nice job assuming you select the proper options for your equipment.


----------



## Clepto




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Clepto* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know if Anthem is offering an HDMI 1.3 upgrade to the AVM-50?



I realize 1.3 isn't out yet, but was wondering if Anthem/Dealers were going to be offering an upgrade (whether firmware or hardware) in the future.


----------



## pciav

Thanks for the info Jeff. The problems you incurred were they a limitation of the D2 or the source equipment and the SIL 9030 chip which has the clipping problem?


I have three HDMI sources and the only one that has the clipping problem is my Toshiba HD-D1 HD DVD Player which uses the SIL 9030 chipset as reported by Stacey Spears and reports 4:4:4 YCbCr. My Sony DVP-NS 975 SD DVD Player outputs 4:2:2 YCbCr and it passes BTB and WTW. My SA-8300HD cable box reports Digital RGB when connected and when using both the INHD and HDNET Test Patterns as sources does not appear to show any clipping either. I have the D2 to accept Video Levels In and Output Video Levels and my display set to accept Video Levels.


At this point, I am waiting on having somebody come in and do a full calibration until Anthem makes all there initial adjustments and bug fixes that may affect the outcome.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had a chance to work with a D2 with a Gennum scaler yesterday. It is a nice product, but be careful. In this case only a single combination did not result in scaling problems or level clipping. This is after examining all four format options on the HDMI source format (RGB, RGB Extended, Component, Component 12 bit) to the D2 and all the similar options on the HDMI output from the D2. The magic combination in this case was Component on the input and YCbCr 4:2:2 on the D2. Otherwise, the Gennum appeared to do a nice job assuming you select the proper options for your equipment.



Jeff is referring to my D2 in combination with my Pioneer DV-79avi DVD player. It was odd indeed, and still has me scratching my head.


Levesque, I know you also have the 79avi - what settings are you using with it and the D2 to your Ruby projector?


By the way, regardless of this strangeness, the resulting PQ is really excellent...owing alot to Jeff's extensive calibration of my Qualia by the way...I would HIGHLY recommend Jeff's services for video calibration and/or audio tuning.


----------



## umr

Phil,


It is hard to tell who was at fault in every case, but I suspect both were depending on the options chosen. I just wanted to give folks a heads up that choosing the proper format can be tricky. Level problems were also not the only ones encountered. Converting formats caused problems with scaling as well.


----------



## umr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ....By the way, regardless of this strangeness, the resulting PQ is really excellent...owing alot to Jeff's extensive calibration of my Qualia by the way...I would HIGHLY recommend Jeff's services for video calibration and/or audio tuning.



Thanks for such positive feedback. It was a pleasure working with you as well.


----------



## bassbone57




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *musica* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> bassbone57 - Thanks for the explanation, however, I was trying to find out what pre/pro or receiver is yatchaks replacing in his system with the AVM50.
> 
> 
> Cheers!



Sorry, I see what you were getting at now musica.



-K


----------



## musica

clepto - I spoke with my local dealer about a month ago regarding upgrades. In general, Anthem will offer upgrades. However, at that time, my dealer was waiting for details on the program - upgrade paths, cost and timeframe. I will stop by over the next few days to get an update.


Cheers!


----------



## pciav

Thank you for the info Jeff. If you can and do not mind, please pass any info you feel is relevant along to Anthem so hopefully fixes and adjustments can be made and incorporated into future firmware updates where applicable on Anthem's part. Again, thanks for the info and your expertise.


----------



## Steve Goff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jeff is referring to my D2 in combination with my Pioneer DV-79avi DVD player. It was odd indeed, and still has me scratching my head.
> 
> 
> Levesque, I know you also have the 79avi - what settings are you using with it and the D2 to your Ruby projector?
> 
> 
> By the way, regardless of this strangeness, the resulting PQ is really excellent...owing alot to Jeff's extensive calibration of my Qualia by the way...I would HIGHLY recommend Jeff's services for video calibration and/or audio tuning.



Are you putting out 1080i to the Qualia? Are these problems also evident at 1080p? What kind of scaling and clipping problems are we talking about? When you say component on the input, do you mean anaog component, or the type of signal seen by the HDMI receiver (4.2.2 YCbCr versus 4.4.4 or RGB)?


----------



## LEVESQUE

I'm using the 79AVi at 480i over HDMI, "component 12 bit" out to the D2, and YCbCr 4:2:2 out from the D2 to the Sony Ruby. Everything was measured ok by Michael TLV, ISF calibrator also.


----------



## shah993

Just checked out the Anthem site.They already have a firmware upgade.Has anybody done that?Any problems to watchout for?


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Clepto* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I realize 1.3 isn't out yet, but was wondering if Anthem/Dealers were going to be offering an upgrade (whether firmware or hardware) in the future.



I think its' a safe bet that Anthem will offer an upgrade to 1.3 when its' all finalized and what not. One of their selling points is that the AVM line is future proof. There is a little blurb on their website saying that AVM models are designed to be software and hardware upgradeable, "*provided that future formats do not require physical changes to front or back panels*".


I don't think HDMI 1.3 would require drastic changes to the back panel. I mean, if the AVM30 will be upgradeable to the AVM50, then an upgrade to HDMI 1.3 would be no sweat.


----------



## abc999

I am also waiting for my avm50 here in the Philippines. It might be here by the end of the month


----------



## yatchaks

Well, things have been a little crazy here. I had new carpet installed yesterday, so even though I hooked everything up to the AVM 50 the night before, I knew I'd have to disconnect all the equipment and move it to another room the next morning.


I only had listened to less than a minute at reference levels of one song since it was almost midnight when set up was complete. I'm running a Velodyne DD15 as well, and thought I'd not bother the neighbors.


Last night I had everything back in place and was ready to give this unit a serious look and listen. I could not get the HDMI output to work, it worked fine the night before...and now nothing. I spent a couple hours pulling everything back out and going through connections. I'm going to call Anthem in a few minutes.



When I initially hooked up, I hit the power button...nothing, then I hit the button on the face of the unit...nothing. I checked the power cord and checked it again then swapped it out with the MCA 50 power cord. Still nothing. Looked at the directions and noticed a power switch on the back of the unit...BINGO! A little embarrassing to admit.


Musica, the AVM 50/MCA 50 is replacing a Pioneer Elite 49TX. I lost all sound output from the 49TX a couple months ago. My dealer gave me a Denon 2805 as a loaner and I purchased the MCA 50 when I pre ordered th AVM 50 and used the MCA 50's amps with the Denon acting as a pre/pro.


Sorry guys, I wish I could give some impression. It really stinks that I've not been able to demo this piece yet. I'll report back soon.



FYI...I see Anthem has a software upgrade already available on their site.
*EDIT>>As paul states below...This is an error with Anthem's website and does not apply to the D2/AVM 50*.


----------



## musica

yatchaks - Sorry to hear about the glitch. I'm hopeful that it's something minor. Keep us posted.


Good luck!


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just checked out the Anthem site.They already have a firmware upgade.Has anybody done that?Any problems to watchout for?



I just talked to Nick at Anthem about a problem with the AVM 50 not outputting HDMI, looks like an exchange is going to take place. Anyway, I asked of the software update and this update is *NOT* for the D2/AVM 50. It is for the AVM 30. He said he would get the link corrected.


I wanted to give a heads up before possible problems arise if someone here attempts the upgrade.


----------



## goenkar

My Settings editor problem is solved. Nick sent me an updated settings editor that had longer time for handshake with COM port. Amazing sameday service by Anthem.


It works now. Thanks to all who replied


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FYI...I see Anthem has a software upgrade already available on their site.



The update is 1.14 for the AVM30, nothing yet for the 50. Their links are all messed up and I am sure they will be sorted soon.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jeff is referring to my D2 in combination with my Pioneer DV-79avi DVD player. It was odd indeed, and still has me scratching my head.
> 
> 
> Levesque, I know you also have the 79avi - what settings are you using with it and the D2 to your Ruby projector?
> 
> 
> By the way, regardless of this strangeness, the resulting PQ is really excellent...owing alot to Jeff's extensive calibration of my Qualia by the way...I would HIGHLY recommend Jeff's services for video calibration and/or audio tuning.



I'm also using the 79AVi at 480i over HDMI, "component 12 bit" out from my DV-79avi to the D2, and HDMI Auto out from the D2 to my HDPJ52 at 720P.

It gives me the best picture


----------



## cpgator

I placed an order today for the 50, and will pick it up tomorrow. However, since I am in the process of moving, I won't be able to test it out for a few weeks.


----------



## lchurch

My D2 just arrived. I can't wait for 5:00 to pick it up. My wife is in Hawaii for a week, so I have plenty of time to play.


larry


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lchurch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My D2 just arrived. I can't wait for 5:00 to pick it up. My wife is in Hawaii for a week, so I have plenty of time to play.
> 
> 
> larry



Congrats and have fun with it


----------



## tanilium

So, here's a question.


If you could get a D1 for 1k off of price of an AVM50, would that be a better deal? Knowing full well that you can update the D1 to a D2?


After the upgrade, would the D1 then actually be a D2? And future upgrades to the D2 be available for the D1?


Gah. Mind goes blewie thinking if I should do this. Help! I could have either tomorrow. *(sigh)*


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Goff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you putting out 1080i to the Qualia? Are these problems also evident at 1080p? What kind of scaling and clipping problems are we talking about? When you say component on the input, do you mean anaog component, or the type of signal seen by the HDMI receiver (4.2.2 YCbCr versus 4.4.4 or RGB)?



Yes, 1080i from the D2 to the Qualia...the Qualia cannot take a 1080p input (yet), so I cannot test that. The component i'm talking about is the type of signal (not the analog component connection).


I am connected via HDMI from the Pioneer to the D2, and via HDMI from the D2 to the Qualia. The Pio is sending "Component" signal type to the D2, and the D2 is sending YCbCr 4.2.2 to the Qualia. The Pio sends its signal as 480i to the D2, which does the deinterlacing and scaling to 1080p with Gennum, then sends it thru the D2's interlacer to output the 1080i that is necessary for the Qualia to receive the signal.


I am pushing quite hard for Sony to release a 1080p upgrade for the Qualia 006. If that ever happens, it will be interesting to see if the use of 1080p to the Qualia from the D2 changes anything in regards to the clipping that UMR/Jeff and I saw, and the right combination of settings for the most optimal picture quality.


----------



## lchurch

After a couple of hours of unplugging cables and reconnecting (many fewer) cables...

The D2 has certainly simplified the wiring -- from the pile of unused cables on the floor, I'd say by half.

One HDMI cable from the D*TV HR10-250! One HDMI cable to the TV (instead of three). I had an HDMI switcher -- gone -- one less box, one less remote, less wires!


Sound:

Even without calibration, WOW! After my first pass at speaker calibration (no "advanced" stuff done), I can't believe the difference in the sound. I wouldn't have believed that the improvement would be so dramatic. I only had a few hours to explore, but I like it.


Picture:

At this point, I'm not sure I have disabled all of the other scalers, but the satellite HD picture looks great. I have some SVHS tapes that the Denon could not even lock on to upconvert (to component) I had to switch the TV input to S-Video to watch it. The D2 does a magnificent job.


I can't tell you how cool having the OSD available over HDMI. Just to tweak something required switching the TV from HDMI to component, do the adjustment, then switch the TV input back.


Questions:

1) How hot is this thing supposed to run -- the right side is approaching uncomfortably hot (my Theta Dreadnought II runs cooler!).

2) Can you set what input is active on power-up? I didn't see anything in the manual. I did read it -- honest!


thanks,

larry


----------



## musica

yatchaks - Any news on the "possible" problem(s) with your new AVM-50?


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *musica* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> yatchaks - Any news on the "possible" problem(s) with your new AVM-50?



Yes, I talked with Nick at Anthem, he recommened I bring it back to the dealer to confirm the HDMI output is not working. Upon confirmation, Anthem will allow me to keep this unit until a replacement arrives.


I have been overwelmed by all the possibile configuration options. Between spending time with the various xover settings combined with the Velodyne DD15 software and the scaler, I've had much confusion.


I will ask a few questions in the D2 thread in attempt to have some questions answered. The manual is not written poorly for people who understand the various functions since it explains how to navigate the various settings , but not knowing why I may want to adjust a setting, its not explained well enough for me. I have never owned a piece of this caliber and admit I'm a little lost.


Overall, I am extemely impressed with the AVM 50. It's hard to explain the improvements without sounding like many others touting their gear, but I can say, it just sounds different, in many positive ways. I have much to explore and know further improvements will come.


I absolutely hear an improvement over the my previous gear, much to the credit (imho) of the MCA 50. When using the Denon as a pre pro, it worked suprisingly well in terms of audio. The question, is it worth 3700.00 (retail) more than a 1000.00 reciever acting as a pre pro? For me, a big yes. Any regrets? No way. I am not a wealthy person by any means, but I really enjoy home theater. Any improvements, no matter how subjective, come with a price. With my over extended budget, I'm thrilled.


----------



## Les 1

lchurch

As far as running hot , i inquired about this also for my D2.I am told by Anthem that it is perfectly normal but you should not leave it on 24/7.I used to keep my AVM30 powered up all the time but was told that it only takes a few minutes to warm up anyway and prolongs the life of the unit


----------



## LEVESQUE

For those with the new HD-DVD player Toshiba HD-A1... with the awful and buggy remote.


I finally found something to do with the second remote included with the D2...







It took me 5 minutes to program it and learn the different buttons, and now the Toshiba remote is in the closet... and no freezing anymore.










The D2 runs pretty hot. My rack is in a sealed closet, and there is fresh air blowing directly on it to keep it cool. SilentX fans are also great to cool things down w/o the noise.


----------



## Will Binegar

Congratulations Larry. Before the D2 arrived, you were using a Denon receiver for processing with a Theta Dreadnaught providing the amplification, right? It sounds as though the improvements you're hearing are due solely to the D2's superior sonics, rather than a combination of the D2 plus better amplification.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those with the new HD-DVD player Toshiba HD-A1... with the awful and buggy remote.
> 
> 
> I finally found something to do with the second remote included with the D2...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me 5 minutes to program it and learn the different buttons, and now the Toshiba remote is in the closet... and no freezing anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The D2 runs pretty hot. My rack is in a sealed closet, and there is fresh air blowing directly on it to keep it cool. SilentX fans are also great to cool things down w/o the noise.



Alain, I put the remote that came with mmy HD-XA1 in remote purgatory immediately after final setup was finished. My Harmony 880 has been doing the full remote duties since my second day with the Toshiba HD player. And I avoided all of the freezing issues and have much faster responsive communications between the remote and the player.


Maybe the anticipated Toshiba firmware update will alleviate the remote issues. Doesn't really matter for either of us (or others who program their universal or other such remotes) if they provide a fix for a simply awful remote.


----------



## KenLand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lchurch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 2) Can you set what input is active on power-up?
> 
> ...
> 
> thanks,
> 
> larry



I don't have that problem, because I just hit the input I want to watch to power up the D2.


TV? hit TV. DVD? hit DVD. That turns the D2 on with that input selected.


Very wife friendly I might add.


Ken


----------



## yatchaks

I'm hoping for some help. I aplogize for my ignorance but I have never owned a pre pro with all these features.

*Xover settings*

We have xover frequency, individual speaker xover settings and sub/lfe xover. Currently I have my Velodyne DD15 xover bypassed, xover frequency set at 80, fronts and center set at 80, and the rears set at 100, and finally the sube/lfe xover set at 80. Does this seem acceptable or am I overlapping the xover?

*Scaler and video adjustments*

I own a 60" Sony SXRD and wonder if I should leave the display setting set from my past DVE calibration current, then tweak with image color from the scaler. Or, should I set the color adjustments in the Sony as default, then use the image color in the scaler to set color? If so, I assume another calibration with DVE should be done through the scaler?

*Output Resolution*

The Sony accepts a 1920x1080I signal, upconverts to 1920x1080p but does not accept a 1080p signal. I assume I would set the output resolution at the native resolution of 1920x1080I and forget about it regaurdless of source?

*Data format*

I'm currently using component for all video sources. The manual states 4:4:4 is rarely used but all my video sources show up in scaler info as component 4:4:4, why?

*Sampling frequency*

I only use the Anthem for main zone, no recording, and run a 5.1 setup. How do I know which frequency to use, 44.1..48...88.2.... or 96 kHz?


Lastly, I'm having a problem displaying a picture with my Intel Mac Mini. The Anthem defaults to 1080p when I first start the Mac. I will get a picture until I switch video inputs then lose the picture to a black screen when I switch video back to the mac. I then have to run a VGA cable from the mac directly to the tv to get my picture back, then switch back to the Anthem. I have tried setting the macs resolution to 480i and 1080i and some in between, but the same problem comes back. On that note, what resolution would one want to use when hooking up a computer, keep it at 480i and let the scaler do the work, or set at 1080I?


Thanks in advance. Please don't feel as though you have to answer all questions, I know there is a lot to address. But I hope that various people will chime in potentially eliminating the questions.


----------



## elmac

Yatchaks,

I know Intel Mac Mini have Video output problem for HT usage. This was all over Mac boards when they first come out.

Check with your Apple dealer just to make sure you don't have one of those units.

They are fine with regural computer screen, but they loose video when going through receiver or a processor to HT display

If you can keep the resolution at 1080P computers don't require scaling

BTW, I love intel Macs


----------



## FerretHunter

I picked up an AVM50, PVA7, and a Pioneer Elite 79avi on Friday. I've been spending a lot of time getting this stuff set up. I've come accross some frustrations that I hope someone can help me out with. I could have posted this in the official AVM50 thread, but since it is almost the same as the D2 and there are more folks posting here, I thought I'd post in this thread.


First off, I've got DVD movies working fine with the 79avi. Initial impression is that for film based movies, it's not a whole lot better than what I was getting from my HTPC before. Video based DVDs are much better, but I wasn't watching much of these.


I'm having some trouble with DVD-audio discs. I've got just an HDMI cable connecting the 79avi and the AVM50. I bought REM (Automatic For The People), and Foreigner (4). The REM disc plays fine. The AVM50 picks up that it is a 5.1 audio stream coming from the 79avi. When I click "Audio" on the 79avi, it shows PPCM 3/2.1. But when I put in the Foreigner dics, the AVM50 is only detecting 2.0 channel stereo. But the 79avi is showing PPCM 3/2.1. It's bugging the hell out of me why I am not getting 5.1 from this disc. If I had a setup issue, it would have shown up for REM as well. Any insights? And how do you switch to different audio tracks on the 79avi? I click "Audio" but can't switch. I tried this on a movie with DD and DTS. I couldn't switch Audio tracks on the fly. The manual seems to indicate I should use that Audio button.


Next is a problem I had with connecting my HDTV settop box. I have a Rogers Cable HDTV box (Scientific Atlanta 3250). When I connected it via HDMI (with an HDMI/DVI adaptor at the HDTV box), I get one of four possible outcomes, with no predictable pattern of which outcome to expect:


1) No picture, no sound, just a green screen.

2) No picture, no sound, flashing green screen.

3) Picture and sound, but a horrible green tint to the picture

4) Picture and sound, but a horrible green tint to the message box saying my display is not HDCP compliant.


I've tried all kinds of combinations and permutations. Nothing worked. If I disconnected the HDMI input to the AVM50 in outcomes 1 and 2 above, I suddenly got sound and a blank blue screen. Seems HDMI is interfering with coaxial digital audio in????


Three-four hours later, I was getting pissed and rather than risk throwing the cable box and/or the AVM50 out the window, I switched to a component cable connection and it worked fine. Picture quality seemed to be as good as I was getting using the HDMI into my H79. I can let this go, but would prefer to use the HDMI since I paid for the damn cables! As an aside, is there a risk of the cable company limiting resolution on tv shows? I wouldn't want to use component and find out that I can only get Desperate Housewives in 480p!


Then I tried setting up my third HDMI input to the AVM50. That would be my computer, outputting at 1280x720. This input worked fine going directly into my H79 projector. But into the AVM50, I got ... a blank green screen.


What the heck is going on with my setup? Why can't the damn thing seem to accept a computer input? Why doesn't it accept a DVI input from my HDTV box? And why the heck can't I hear Foreigner 4 in 5.1 DVD audio?


I'm not a happy camper at this point. And to top it all off, like I said, the picture from DVD isn't all that much better (if any at all) than I was getting from my HTPC.


----------



## tngiloy

Hello! I'm a new member to this thread. I currently have an avm30, but my dealer offered me a trade in/up deal on the d2 that i couldn't refuse. Well I could have, but I would have regretted it.

I looked through the tweak guide and couldn't find any mention of what you all think is the best way to connect a denon 2910 to the d2. They suggest using hdmi at 480i, but the only way to get the denon input at 480i is to use a component connection, which would be O.K. Or I could use hdmi connection at 1080i (or 480/720p).

I would be interested what you have found is the best connection for this situation.

By the way the d2 will be connected by hdmi to a 50'' samsung 1080p hdtv.

Tom G.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello! I'm a new member to this thread. I currently have an avm30, but my dealer offered me a trade in/up deal on the d2 that i couldn't refuse. Well I could have, but I would have regretted it.
> 
> I looked through the tweak guide and couldn't find any mention of what you all think is the best way to connect a denon 2910 to the d2. They suggest using hdmi at 480i, but the only way to get the denon input at 480i is to use a component connection, which would be O.K. Or I could use hdmi connection at 1080i (or 480/720p).
> 
> I would be interested what you have found is the best connection for this situation.
> 
> By the way the d2 will be connected by hdmi to a 50'' samsung 1080p hdtv.
> 
> Tom G.



Hey Tom with D2 that would be easy to compare both inputs

plug both in and change the setting from one to the other and choose the best,

I had an LG dvi player before I got Pio79AVi

and my LG looked same through both inputs at 480i.

and 480i component looked better than 1080i dvi coming in to D2

Denon has a better scaler than LG, so please post you findings.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FerretHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> First off, I've got DVD movies working fine with the 79avi. Initial impression is that for film based movies, it's not a whole lot better than what I was getting from my HTPC before. Video based DVDs are much better, but I wasn't watching much of these.
> 
> 
> I'm having some trouble with DVD-audio discs. I've got just an HDMI cable connecting the 79avi and the AVM50. I bought REM (Automatic For The People), and Foreigner (4). The REM disc plays fine. The AVM50 picks up that it is a 5.1 audio stream coming from the 79avi. When I click "Audio" on the 79avi, it shows PPCM 3/2.1. But when I put in the Foreigner dics, the AVM50 is only detecting 2.0 channel stereo. But the 79avi is showing PPCM 3/2.1. It's bugging the hell out of me why I am not getting 5.1 from this disc. If I had a setup issue, it would have shown up for REM as well. Any insights? And how do you switch to different audio tracks on the 79avi? I click "Audio" but can't switch. I tried this on a movie with DD and DTS. I couldn't switch Audio tracks on the fly. The manual seems to indicate I should use that Audio button.
> 
> 
> Next is a problem I had with connecting my HDTV settop box. I have a Rogers Cable HDTV box (Scientific Atlanta 3250). When I connected it via HDMI (with an HDMI/DVI adaptor at the HDTV box), I get one of four possible outcomes, with no predictable pattern of which outcome to expect:



Don't know how good your PC looked, so can't comment on that... I can say that the 79avi at 480i looked better than my Denon 5910ci 1080p native DVD player..


But regarding the DVD-A discs... I have some discs that also won't do 5.1 over the HDMI as PCM either (Steely Dan "Two Against Nature")... it is always the same with the same discs, so I think it must be some kind of authoring issue... I haven't tried my DVD-A's throught the analog outs, but will have to try and see what's up..


But regarding the audio switch issue.. that is an authoring issue on each disc.. some will let you change audio selections on the fly, some won't.. this is especially true with discs that have DTS and DD on them, as they don't want people without DTS receivers to get an earful of static.. usually have to go to the disc menu to change them.


And as far as your cable box goes, this is not an Anthem problem. I have had more problems over the years using DVI outputs than I care to remember.. with my D2, my Hughes Directv HTL-HD does something similar... if you are on the sat input when you power it up, it is fine... go to another input and change back, green screen or flashing video.... and it also changes my HTL video output to instead of 1080i... a complete system power off is the only solution.. I spoke to Nick at Anthem, and he is aware of the problem, but stated that it will be almost impossible to fix every itieration of DVI issue out there... My solution was to switch to component, and I can't tell the difference..


You aren't alone, and don't be discourage.... I'll try and do some more research on DVD-A and get back to you.. I will also drop Nick a line about it and see if it is indeed related to HDMI....


----------



## musica

yatchaks - Glad to see that you are getting good support from Anthem. Also, as you have seen, the Anthem pre/pro is very flexible. With flexibility comes some complexity, however, once the setup is complete, you will be very happy.


Please keep us updated on your progress. My hope is that the problem with your unit is just an exception.


Cheers!


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FerretHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And to top it all off, like I said, the picture from DVD isn't all that much better (if any at all) than I was getting from my HTPC.



Has anyone ever quoted themselves in a post? Anyways, I just finished watching Finding Nemo and X-Men with the kids. I feel much better about the video output. It was very clean and very nice. It's been a while since I last watched them, but I'm pretty sure it was better than I recalled them being. How much better, I can't say with certainty.


The movie I watched the other day during setup was Terminator 2 Ultimate Edition.


My earlier post was regarding setup and testing from yesterday. Today was relax day. I listened to music and watched movies with the kids. I feel much better about my purchase. The audio side of the AMV50/PVA7 is absolutely fantastic. If I can just get it to accept my computer input, I'll be set. I finished watching Desperate Housewives from the HDTV box using component and it was just as good as watching it straight into the H79 using DVI/HDMI, so I'm ok with using component out of that box.


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But regarding the DVD-A discs... I have some discs that also won't do 5.1 over the HDMI as PCM either (Steely Dan "Two Against Nature")... it is always the same with the same discs, so I think it must be some kind of authoring issue... I haven't tried my DVD-A's throught the analog outs, but will have to try and see what's up..
> 
> 
> But regarding the audio switch issue.. that is an authoring issue on each disc.. some will let you change audio selections on the fly, some won't.. this is especially true with discs that have DTS and DD on them, as they don't want people without DTS receivers to get an earful of static.. usually have to go to the disc menu to change them.
> 
> 
> You aren't alone, and don't be discourage.... I'll try and do some more research on DVD-A and get back to you.. I will also drop Nick a line about it and see if it is indeed related to HDMI....



Thanks for the information, especially regarding DVD-Audio. I will also do more research into the Foreigner 4 disc.


Regarding switching audio tracks, it was easy to do in TheaterTek and with my Panasonic RP91. I guess I could just go back to the main menu of the disc to switch tracks.


I will also send a note off to Nick asking for some suggestions. More so about hooking up my computer (for the convenience of HDMI switching, not for the video processing of that input). I'm ok at this point with using component outputs from the HDTV box.


My initial post was after some mixed results from the day before. The family was watching and when you've just spent a significant amount of coin, everything needs to go smoothly in order to justify the expenditure to the wife.


----------



## tonydeluce

Great to see this thread finally started! I will be watching this thread closely

since I am trying to decide between the AVM 40 and the AVM 50...


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Overall, I am extemely impressed with the AVM 50. It's hard to explain the improvements without sounding like many others touting their gear, but I can say, it just sounds different, in many positive ways. I have much to explore and know further improvements will come.
> 
> 
> I absolutely hear an improvement over the my previous gear, much to the credit (imho) of the MCA 50. When using the Denon as a pre pro, it worked suprisingly well in terms of audio. The question, is it worth 3700.00 (retail) more than a 1000.00 reciever acting as a pre pro? For me, a big yes. Any regrets? No way. I am not a wealthy person by any means, but I really enjoy home theater. Any improvements, no matter how subjective, come with a price. With my over extended budget, I'm thrilled.



I completely understand what you're saying. I just got the AVM50 and PVA7 to replace an Integra DTR 6.5. I definitely hear a difference. It's a different kind of sound, one that seems to be a bit crisper and clearer than before. When I crank it up now, the sound gets better. Before, it just got louder. Does that even make sense?


I've also posted about some setup issues I've had with my AVM50. Since it's video and setup is essentially the same as the D2, I posted in that thread since there is more activity.


I know what you mean about the budget being over extended, but just like you, I am also happy that I did this upgrade. If I can just get the AVM50 to accept 720p from my computer, I'll be set. It would be nice if it took HDMI/DVI from my HDTV box as well.


Do you by any chance have a DVI source connected to the AVM50? If so, any issues? HDMI inputs seem to be working on my AVM50 (Pioneer Elite 79avi), but I seem to be having issues with the two items which I try to connect to the AVM50 that are outputting from a DVI port (computer and HDTV box). Even though its' an HDMI cable going from the DVI device (with a DVI to HDMI adapter) into the AVM50, maybe there's some DVI issue?


----------



## lchurch

It sounds good and has a great PQ for about an hour, then shuts it's self off. That's with

six 80 mm fans (two blowing into the power supply and 4 sucking elseware)! With NO fans it runs about a half hour. The Denon had no problems in that location (even using two of the channels for zone two use).


My Dreadnought is "walled off" from the D2, so it's not contributing.


One would think that for that kind of money, Anthem would do a "burn-in" to catch this kind of thing. With all of the processing going on, I'm not suprised the thing runs warm, but the PC guys gave figured cooling high powered boxes out...


Needless to say, I'm disappointed.


larry


----------



## LEVESQUE

My satellite STB is using DVI and I also have the green screen if I power it on AFTER the D2. If I power on the STB before the D2, then everything is working fine, and I can switch inputs all I want.


FerretHunter.


What settings are you using for the 79AVi and D2. Could you give us more details?


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FerretHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I picked up an AVM50, PVA7, and a Pioneer Elite 79avi on Friday. I've been spending a lot of time getting this stuff set up.
> 
> Next is a problem I had with connecting my HDTV settop box. I have a Rogers Cable HDTV box (Scientific Atlanta 3250). When I connected it via HDMI (with an HDMI/DVI adaptor at the HDTV box), I get one of four possible outcomes, with no predictable pattern of which outcome to expect:
> 
> 
> 1) No picture, no sound, just a green screen.
> 
> 2) No picture, no sound, flashing green screen.
> 
> 3) Picture and sound, but a horrible green tint to the picture
> 
> 4) Picture and sound, but a horrible green tint to the message box saying my display is not HDCP compliant.
> 
> 
> I've tried all kinds of combinations and permutations. Nothing worked. If I disconnected the HDMI input to the AVM50 in outcomes 1 and 2 above, I suddenly got sound and a blank blue screen. Seems HDMI is interfering with coaxial digital audio in????
> 
> 
> Three-four hours later, I was getting pissed and rather than risk throwing the cable box and/or the AVM50 out the window.



Congrats on a buy

Ease with frustration, i know where you coming from had similar problem with my initial setup.

1. are you renting HD box from rogers

if yes get it change out some of them have major software problems

If you would like to use hdmi like i do, get an HDPVR box it has HDMI out and you can set it to 480i it looks amazing

2.Some video cards out of PC will not send proper signal out. What are you using for signal out from your PC.

NOT all DVI outputs are compatible with HT equipment, this really depends on Factory specs and a plug type.

Hope this helps


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Congrats on a buy
> 
> Ease with frustration, i know where you coming from had similar problem with my initial setup.
> 
> 1. are you renting HD box from rogers
> 
> if yes get it change out some of them have major software problems
> 
> If you would like to use hdmi like i do, get an HDPVR box it has HDMI out and you can set it to 480i it looks amazing
> 
> 2.Some video cards out of PC will not send proper signal out. What are you using for signal out from your PC.
> 
> NOT all DVI outputs are compatible with HT equipment, this really depends on Factory specs and a plug type.
> 
> Hope this helps



I bought the SA 3250 box from Rogers, so I don't think I can swap it out.


I have an ATI All In Wonder 9800 card sending 1280x720 out at 60Hz. If I connect either of the above two signals straight into the H79, it works. But into the AVM50, and crapola or nada.


I'm gonna send a shout out to Anthem tomorrow and see what they'v got to say.


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My satellite STB is using DVI and I also have the green screen if I power it on AFTER the D2. If I power on the STB before the D2, then everything is working fine, and I can switch inputs all I want.
> 
> 
> FerretHunter.
> 
> 
> What settings are you using for the 79AVi and D2. Could you give us more details?



I will try different sequences as you suggest, but what would I do if I wanted to watch a DVD first and then CSI or something from the STB?


I will be watching some stuff later, so I'll jot down the settings.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FerretHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought the SA 3250 box from Rogers, so I don't think I can swap it out.
> 
> 
> I have an ATI All In Wonder 9800 card sending 1280x720 out at 60Hz. If I connect either of the above two signals straight into the H79, it works. But into the AVM50, and crapola or nada.
> 
> 
> I'm gonna send a shout out to Anthem tomorrow and see what they'v got to say.



I guess you are using svideo out or is dvi


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FerretHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought the SA 3250 box from Rogers, so I don't think I can swap it out.



I don't think ypu can

How long did you have it for

I think roger has a warranty on them for a year.

Also borow from them one of the HDPVR's and see if it does the same thing, It shouldn't cost you a penny if you return it with in 21 days


----------



## FerretHunter

I have some more information regarding my DVD-audio issue. After carefully reading the back of the two discs I bought, I noticed the REM multichannel audio is 48KHz/24 bit, while the Foreigner disc is recorded at 96/24. Does the AMV50/D2 not accept 96/24?


I thought this might be the problems, so I tried the down convert feature of the 79avi. The signal from the Foreigner disc is now leaving the 79avi as 48/24 (just like the REM disc), but the AVM50 is still picking it up as 2 channel stereo. Damn!


I then played the disc as a DVD-video disc and selected the DD/DTS soundtrack. It was coming in now as 5.1 channel, but then again its' not the high resolution audio track. However, to my ears, it sounded just the same when comparing the DD/DTS soundtrack to the multichannel soundtrack. So for now I guess I could just listen to both of these DVD-audio discs this way.


Is the DD/DTS soundtrack as good as the multichannel soundtrack? Should I try an analog connection from the 79avi to the AVM50?


BTW, I've sent Anthem technical support an email with my problems. I'll let you all know what they have to say.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FerretHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have some more information regarding my DVD-audio issue. After carefully reading the back of the two discs I bought, I noticed the REM multichannel audio is 48KHz/24 bit, while the Foreigner disc is recorded at 96/24. Does the AMV50/D2 not accept 96/24?
> 
> 
> I thought this might be the problems, so I tried the down convert feature of the 79avi. The signal from the Foreigner disc is now leaving the 79avi as 48/24 (just like the REM disc), but the AVM50 is still picking it up as 2 channel stereo. Damn!
> 
> 
> I then played the disc as a DVD-video disc and selected the DD/DTS soundtrack. It was coming in now as 5.1 channel, but then again its' not the high resolution audio track. However, to my ears, it sounded just the same when comparing the DD/DTS soundtrack to the multichannel soundtrack. So for now I guess I could just listen to both of these DVD-audio discs this way.
> 
> 
> Is the DD/DTS soundtrack as good as the multichannel soundtrack? Should I try an analog connection from the 79avi to the AVM50?
> 
> 
> BTW, I've sent Anthem technical support an email with my problems. I'll let you all know what they have to say.



The D2 receives 24/96 8ch.


----------



## yatchaks

Well, my non working HDMI output was confirmed dead. Anthem will be sending out a replacement unit.


FerretHunter, I have not had any luck with the DVI inputs, but only because my HDMI out was not working. I tried running DVI in while selecting component out, but it appears the unit may not down convert DVI/HDMI to component out.


You mentioned you are using a DVI/HDMI adapter. On page 7 in the owners manual, it mentions using an actual HDMI to DVI cable is more reliable than using one with an adapter. I wonder if a new cable will help? I just purchased a few cable from monoprice, one being a 10 foot HDMI/DVI cable for $18.00. You could buy their lesser expensive cable for less than six dollars.


When I press the select button, the unit reads AVM 30-HD. Shouldn't it say AVM 50? Anyone else have the same display reading?


I also notice when watching 4x3 content, the image is shifted to the far left, as well as the AVM 50 display graphics. I have attempted to move the image within the scaler menu, but the image will not move. When I press bypass, the image turns into a small box about an eighth the size of full screen.


Can others confirm if this is happening to your units as well? I'm wondering if I may have a software issue.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Ferret Hunter,


I had some problems with certain DVD-A's over HDMI from my 79avi to the D2 as well. Not exactly what you report, but close. In any case, the setting that ultimately saved me was a setting for HDMI under the Initial Settings area of 79avi. It is NOT under the Audio settings, as you might expect (that would make too much sense 


Instead, go under Initial Settings, HDMI Settings, and about 4 fields down the screen, there is an option called Audio. Make sure that is set to Auto, not to Linear PCM.


This may not fix it, but thought I would throw that out there as a suggestion.


Good luck,

ManWithAPlan


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Instead, go under Initial Settings, HDMI Settings, and about 4 fields down the screen, there is an option called Audio. Make sure that is set to Auto, not to Linear PCM.



Thanks for the suggestion, but I tried every possible setting. It didn't matter if this setting was Auto or Linear PCM. The AVM50 is only picking up 2.0 channel stereo from the Foreigner disk, even though the 79avi is outputting LPCM 3/2.1.


----------



## obie_fl

Just curious if you get 5.1 out of the analogs on the Foreigner disc if you have them hooked up? I don't have that DVD-A or I would check it on my 79AVi.


----------



## KenLand

I just got some Upgrade info that will interest most everyone.


The D2 upgrades require different firmware than a virgin D2.


This different firmware is still in development with an unknown ETA.


One difference is the D1 supports OSD over composite and the D2 does not.


This same story holds true for AVM-50 upgrades for AVM-30's.


Ken


----------



## lchurch

A new D2 is headed west as I write this. I'm dissappointed that I got a defective box, but Anthem's response is terriffic.


----------



## lchurch

I have a Universal MX-800. Universal's database has a listing for the Anthem D1 buy not (yet) for the D2. I'm assuming that the D1 remote codes should *work* for the D2.


Have any of you D2 owners tried this?



larry


----------



## goenkar

Larry,


I have the MX-3000 and am using AVM-30's codes for AVM-50.


----------



## lchurch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Will Binegar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Congratulations Larry. Before the D2 arrived, you were using a Denon receiver for processing with a Theta Dreadnaught providing the amplification, right? It sounds as though the improvements you're hearing are due solely to the D2's superior sonics, rather than a combination of the D2 plus better amplification.



Yes, the difference in sound is due to the D2 replacing the Denon 3805 used as a pre/pro. The Denon sounded "thin". The D2 added a lot of dementionality - I'm not a professional audio reviewer, no do I play on on the forums -- there just seemed to be more there (like comparing coffee machine coffee to French Roast out of a press).


It was a dramatic difference. I remenber thinking, wait till my wife hears this! (She was in Hawaii for a week -- her gift, the D2 -- my gift).



larry


----------



## mcnisiv

Ken,


Nick told me pretty much the same thing. I hope they get this done soon, because it seems like it's been forever waiting for this upgrade. I'm about ready to throw the towel in and sell my D1 and go with another solution.


...Nisi


----------



## obie_fl

Larry - I was going to get the D2 but I was hoping the difference was more like comparing coffee machine coffee to espresso, guess I'll wait on the D3.










Nisi - Assuming you are waiting on the HDMI upgrade what other solutions are you considering?


----------



## lchurch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was hoping the difference was more like comparing coffee machine coffee to espresso



Tom.

Maybe, I don't drink espresso







. Considering the work that Anthem has ahead of them (all the upgrades, ramping up production on the AVM-30/40/50 and the D2, not to mention the software development for the above products), I wouldn't expect a D3 until HDMI v1.3 + a year.



larry


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcnisiv* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick told me pretty much the same thing. I hope they get this done soon, because it seems like it's been forever waiting for this upgrade. I'm about ready to throw the towel in and sell my D1 and go with another solution.



There are several D1's on Audiogon - and a D2 too - selling for $3500 - $3600. It seems that some D1 owners would rather sell their D1's and buy the D2 than wait for the D1->D2 upgrade.


R


----------



## obie_fl

I tried to buy a used D1 on Audiogon last year and they would only take an MO, no escrow or paypal etc. I wasn't about to send that big an MO across the country. Been afraid of the place ever since, seems like there are a lot of shady dealers/postings there.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> *Posted by obie_fl* I tried to buy a used D1 on Audiogon last year and they would only take an MO, no escrow or paypal etc. I wasn't about to send that big an MO across the country. Been afraid of the place ever since, seems like there are a lot of shady dealers/postings there.



I have bought three items off Audiogon with excellent results everytime. I would much rather buy electronics from their site than ebay, as I have found a higher quality of seller on Audiogon. However, just like other online auctions, be sure that the people you are buying from have good feedback. I highly agree with never sending a money order to anyone you don't know, but that's pretty much a "no-brainer".


By the way, (back on topic) I am STILL waiting for my D2 to come in to my dealer that I ordered it from FOUR weeks ago. He says he was waiting for some of the initial "bugs" to get worked out so I wouldn't have to bring it back to him right away. That's not exactly comforting, but after reading a few posts here it might be a plausible excuse!


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have bought three items off Audiogon with excellent results everytime. I would much rather buy electronics from their site than ebay, as I have found a higher quality of seller on Audiogon. However, just like other online auctions, be sure that the people you are buying from have good feedback. I highly agree with never sending a money order to anyone you don't know, but that's pretty much a "no-brainer".
> 
> 
> By the way, (back on topic) I am STILL waiting for my D2 to come in to my dealer that I ordered it from FOUR weeks ago. He says he was waiting for some of the initial "bugs" to get worked out so I wouldn't have to bring it back to him right away. That's not exactly comforting, but after reading a few posts here it might be a plausible excuse!



MLBRAND,


That's a crap excuse from your dealer. He is either misinformed dramatically, or just plain making excuses, or outright lying. It is one thing to tell you that he is having a hard time getting his hands on one because of high demand for a new product, or whatever. But to say he is waiting for bugs to be worked out, that is lame, and you should threaten to go to another dealer, who will gladly push to get you a box sooner than this guy.


Make no mistake about it - this is one hell of an SSP/Video Processor, and it absolutely works as advertised in all respects. Now, have I found defects with some of the Beta code I've tested? Yes. Have any of those things led me to de-value the D2? No. Is the current General Release of software stable and effective? Absolutely. Are there still some edge cases, where certain combinations of equipment behave suboptimally under certain conditions? Yes. Will the software get better and better over time? You're damn right it will. Do I wake up every day happy as a pig in s&%# that I bought the D2? You bet!


This thread is about tweaking and sharing our experiences and getting the very most out of the D2 that we can as owners. You will hear a preponderence of "issues" with the D2 on this forum, simply because, as audio/videophiles, we are picky bastards that wanna get the most out of everything we own. Don't let the issues you hear about on here deter you from running out and getting this product. IMHO, you will NOT be disappointed.


Good luck with it, and let us all know how we can help you maximize your enjoyment of the D2.


Peace,

ManWithAPlan


----------



## mlbrand

ManWithAPlan,


Thanks for the input. I agree that my dealer is giving me a lousy excuse on the delay of my D2. I really wonder if they just forgot to order it, or gave mine to somebody else? They now say I will have it in 2 weeks, and if not I am going elsewhere.


Your feedback on the performance of the D2 is helpful in restoring my confidence in following through with this purchase. This is more money than I have ever spent on a SSP before, so I want it to definitely be worth it. When I finally get one I will let you know my impressions, and how it is working for me.


----------



## randman

The pictures of the Anthem 50 in the Anthem web site show silver Anthem 50s. Just wanted to confirm - does the Anthem 50 also come in black?


----------



## tonydeluce




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The pictures of the Anthem 50 in the Anthem web site show silver Anthem 50s. Just wanted to confirm - does the Anthem 50 also come in black?



If not, this just might just force me into the D2


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ManWithAPlan,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. I agree that my dealer is giving me a lousy excuse on the delay of my D2. I really wonder if they just forgot to order it, or gave mine to somebody else? They now say I will have it in 2 weeks, and if not I am going elsewhere.



Ask your dealer to give you a copy of the original order confirmation with order date. There have been more D2's delivered over the past month than drops of rain during the brief rain shower in Boston this morning. Seriously, an acquaintance in Florida ordered one around May 8th and it was delivered yesterday.


Remember that the D2 is a pricey unit and Anthem, like other dealers, has credit lines with its' dealers, so if your dealer had exceeded his credit line, then, he would be required to make a payment to Anthem before your D2 could be delivered.


I am not saying that this is what happened with your dealer, but it does not sound as if he is shooting straight with you. Unless the pricing is unbelievable, why would not go to another dealer, if there is anotherauthorized local Anthem outlet.


You will enjoy it when it arrives! Hopefully sooner rather than later.


----------



## goenkar

I have a black AVM-50 so YES!!! it does come in black


----------



## randman

Good to know it comes in black (but in a way, not, since it's one less reason to get a D2  ).


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It certainly is interesting and not all SA8300HD's are created equal. It is dependent on the cable system and software running. In my case it is Time Warner Cable with Passport Software. The main problem is with the HDMI implementation and software on my SA8300HD; howver, based upon the fact that I had zero issues when using the HDMI out connected to my Lumagen VisionPro HDP tells me that there is also something different, not necessarily wrong, just different with Anthem's HDMI and HDCP implementation. Hopefully they will figure it out and get it in an upcoming update



The following URL may shed some light on the problem with the SA 8300HD:

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums...ad.php?t=21194


----------



## obie_fl

My quest to see a D2 or an AVM-50 live have proved to be rather futile. I'm to the point where I wish Anthem would just sell direct over the Internet. My local authorized dealer only special orders Anthem products but was more then happy to show me his Rotel gear. Then I plugged a bunch of different zip codes into Anthems site to find the next nearest dealer. This dealer actuallly said that they had a few AVM-50s in back but were all spoken for, they did say they would have a floor model in a few weeks. I asked about the D2 and they told me they are not a Statement dealer. OK back to the web site plug in more zip codes and find the closest Statement dealer over 80miles away. I' guess I'll call them next.


I think I've been spoiled by the instant gradification of the Internet. I'm really to the point where I despise walking into a B&M store and dealing with someone who knows less then I do about the product. I'm really interested in seeing one live as I have the SA 8300HD and would like to see one hooked up with my cable provider.


Well... sorry for the rant I just had to vent a little.


Is there a master list of Anthem dealers someplace? The web site only shows one dealer for any zipcode I enter.


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The following URL may shed some light on the problem with the SA 8300HD:
> 
> http://forums.audioholics.com/forums...ad.php?t=21194



Thanks Randman, but nothing new here. With the repeater function in the D2 off the SA8300HD works. The problem I am experiencing is not that HDMI doesn't work it is how it works. Just turning the D2 on to any input makes the SA8300HD power up and look for a signal to sync to. This starts a manic switching on/off of the cable box that is just not feasible to live with.


Again, just to be clear, I used the SA8300HD with my Lumagen via HDMI > DVI for a year and half without a single HDCP issue and certainly nothing like the above. Yes the SA8300HD has problems, but there is a definite work around and it seems to be based upon the implementation in the VP. I am hopeful Anthem will figure it out.


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The following URL may shed some light on the problem with the SA 8300HD:
> 
> http://forums.audioholics.com/forums...ad.php?t=21194



Thanks for the link, I am experiencing cable box problems and the above link provided some good information. I started looking into HDMI switchers and realized that if I do this, then I am bypassing the 1080i deinterlacing of the Gennum VP in the AVM50.


I've had all kinds of headaches and the work arounds seem to be to move to analog connections (for my cable box and multi-channel audio from DVD-audio).


I did speak to Nick at Anthem and he sent me a beta firmware update that might fix my problems, though he said a newer firmware is expected in days (don't know if he meant a release, or another beta version). My only hesitation in updating the firmware is the verbage in the manual that says firmware updates by the end user are not covered by warranty if something happens during upgrade. That's certainly incentive to try to upgrade your $5500 SSP yourself


----------



## lchurch

I ordered my D2 on 4/22 and took delivery on 5/18 (which includes ground shipment to California and my dealer not actually placing the order until 4/25). That's a little over 3 weeks.


In spite of the fact that I am awaiting a replacement D2, I still like the beast. I'm still trying to figure out how it works. There just isn't enough time to explore all the nooks and crannies. As I've said before the improvement is sound is dramatic!


larry


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FerretHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My only hesitation in updating the firmware is the verbage in the manual that says firmware updates by the end user are not covered by warranty if something happens during upgrade. That's certainly incentive to try to upgrade your $5500 SSP yourself



Don't hesitate. I'm was changing my firmware almost every 2 weeks before getting v1.00 (pre-production... going back and forth with each new iteration). It's really easy to do, and you also have Nick's benediction to do it.







So don't worry about doing it.


It takes 10 minutes to install a new firmware. You just have to do it properly. Save your settings in the last menu of the D2 first. Then reload "Default settings". Then install the new firmware. Then re-load the settings you did save on the 1st step.


If it's not working the 1st time, then just press "Install" again. Sometimes (rarely) it takes 2 times before working. The software will tell you if something went wrong. Don't worry.


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lchurch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I ordered my D2 on 4/22 and took delivery on 5/18 (which includes ground shipment to California and my dealer not actually placing the order until 4/25). That's a little over 3 weeks.
> 
> 
> larry



Sounds like a 3-week turn-around isn't strange for new orders. I placed an order for an AVM-50 a week ago, and my dealer told me to anticipate receiving it in three weeks. I have an MCA-50 sitting on the floor and the wait is killing me!


----------



## lchurch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have an MCA-50 sitting on the floor and the wait is killing me!



Yea, the wait was tough. Luckily, I had so much going on in my life durring those three weeks, that the time just *flew* by. It will certainly be worth the wait.


larry


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't hesitate. I'm was changing my firmware almost every 2 weeks before getting v1.00 (pre-production... going back and forth with each new iteration). It's really easy to do, and you also have Nick's benediction to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So don't worry about doing it.
> 
> 
> It takes 10 minutes to install a new firmware. You just have to do it properly. Save your settings in the last menu of the D2 first. Then reload "Default settings". Then install the new firmware. Then re-load the settings you did save on the 1st step.
> 
> 
> If it's not working the 1st time, then just press "Install" again. Sometimes (rarely) it takes 2 times before working. The software will tell you if something went wrong. Don't worry.



Ok, I'll give it a try this weekend. If it doesn't work, I will probably pick up one of these HDMI switchers. Damn HDMI!


Oh and I have some ideas about what might be the problem with the 79avi playing the Foreigner DVD-Audio over HDMI. I'm going to try it and if it doesn't work, I'll post my 79avi settings. I haven't forgotten that you asked me for the settings. If all else fails, I did buy some analog cables for plan B.


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When I press the select button, the unit reads AVM 30-HD. Shouldn't it say AVM 50? Anyone else have the same display reading?



On my unit it says "AVM 50 v1.01"


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FerretHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link, I am experiencing cable box problems and the above link provided some good information. I started looking into HDMI switchers and realized that if I do this, then I am bypassing the 1080i deinterlacing of the Gennum VP in the AVM50.
> 
> 
> I've had all kinds of headaches and the work arounds seem to be to move to analog connections (for my cable box and multi-channel audio from DVD-audio).
> 
> 
> I did speak to Nick at Anthem and he sent me a beta firmware update that might fix my problems, though he said a newer firmware is expected in days (don't know if he meant a release, or another beta version). My only hesitation in updating the firmware is the verbage in the manual that says firmware updates by the end user are not covered by warranty if something happens during upgrade. That's certainly incentive to try to upgrade your $5500 SSP yourself



Can you elaborate on what cable box you are using and what the problems are? Wondering if they're the same symptoms that Phil (pciav) mentioned earlier.


Keep us up to date on how the firmware update works.


Thanks.


----------



## FerretHunter

First off, let me clarify that I have an AVM50, not a D2. Both should work similarly and since there is more activity in this thread, I thought I'd post in here.


I applied the firmware update (1.01b). The update process was very easy. I won't say painless because I was worried if I might screw up my AVM50. But everything went smoothly, took roughly 5 minutes. Sorry to say, but my problems are still there.


I'll keep using the component outputs from the STB, and I will momentarily be hooking up analog outs from my 79avi for the multichannel audio.


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you elaborate on what cable box you are using and what the problems are? Wondering if they're the same symptoms that Phil (pciav) mentioned earlier.
> 
> 
> Keep us up to date on how the firmware update works.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I have a Rogers Cable HDTV box (Scientific Atlanta 3250). When I connected it via HDMI (with an HDMI/DVI adaptor at the HDTV box), I get one of four possible outcomes, with no predictable pattern of which outcome to expect:


1) No picture, no sound, just a green screen.

2) No picture, no sound, flashing green screen.

3) Picture and sound, but a horrible green tint to the picture

4) Picture and sound, but a horrible green tint to the message box saying my display is not HDCP compliant.


I've tried all kinds of combinations and permutations. Nothing worked. If I disconnected the HDMI input to the AVM50 in outcomes 1 and 2 above, I suddenly got sound and a blank blue screen. Seems HDMI is interfering with coaxial digital audio in????


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My satellite STB is using DVI and I also have the green screen if I power it on AFTER the D2. If I power on the STB before the D2, then everything is working fine, and I can switch inputs all I want.
> 
> 
> FerretHunter.
> 
> 
> What settings are you using for the 79AVi and D2. Could you give us more details?



Levesque, a big BIG THANK YOU!!! I tried starting the Rogers box first, then the AVM50. I couldn't believe it when the damn thing worked. Picture looks the same as component, but I feel better. When I switch inputs, I lose the picture. But if I turn the AVM50 off and then back on, it works again. Since I don't switch inputs all that much, I'm going to keep the STB on DVI for now.


Regarding the 79AVi, here are my settings:


Under Setup Navigator, my Audio Out Settings were:

AV Reciever - Connected

5.1ch Audio Out - Not Connected

Digital Audio Out - Connected

Dolby Digital - Compatible

DTS - Compatible

96kHz Linear PCM - Compatible

MPEG - Compatible


Then under Initial Settings, Digital Audio Out

Digital Out -> On

Dolby Digital Out -> Dolby Digital

DTS Out -> DTS

Linear PCM Out -> Down Sample Off

MPEG Out -> MPEG


Inital Settings, Options

HDMI Settings: Resolution -> 720x480i

Aspect Ratio -> 16:9 Wide

Colour -> Component (12-bit)

Video Memory -> Direct

Audio -> Auto


Under Audio Settings:

Audio DRC - Off

Legat PRO - Off

Hi-Bit - Off

Virtual Surround - Off

The rest I think only applies to the analog outs.


I can't get the AVM50 to reckognize the 96/24 multi channel track from the Foreigner 4 DVD Audio disc with the above settings. It is picking it up as 2.0 channel audio, even though the 79avi shows 96/24 track coming out (though it says converted). The disc must be incorrectly authored, or it won't allow this high resolution track out through digital ports.


THe same settings do play the 48/24 track from the REM DVD-A.


I'm just going to connect analogs and be done with it. I'd have to do this for SACD anyways.


Sorry for bogging down the D2 thread with a post mostly about the 79avi.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FerretHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque, a big BIG THANK YOU!!! I tried starting the Rogers box first, then the AVM50. I couldn't believe it when the damn thing worked.



Good for you!










Could you post all your settings in the D2 nenu item "5. Source setup/Presets" for the 79AVi?


You should use:

-Audio In: Dig HDMI

-Auto dig: No

-HDMI 6ch map: did you try it?


But just post all your settings in that menu.


----------



## randman

One thing about forums in general is that they tend to have a greater number of discussions regarding negative aspects of a product as compared to positive aspects. This applies not just to this forum but other forums that discuss other products (such as cars, etc.). I suppose folks having trouble need to seek solutions to their issues, while those not having trouble are enjoying their products and don't feel a need to log their experiences in a forum.


Having said that, what I'd like to hear more from Anthem D2/50 owners regarding what positive things they have observed. Specifically, I'd like to hear about what HDMI source components (e.g. DVD players, cable boxes, PCs, etc.) that owners have that work flawlessly. So, folks with good experiences regarding HDMI source components, please speak up! Let's hear what brands of source components work well, and how much Anthem's video processing has helped. I need more encouragement to go out and get an Anthem!


Thanks!!


----------



## goenkar

FH,


I have an AVM-50 connected to a Hitachi 65SWX20b via a HDMI/DVI cable from www.BestDealCables.com . They had a special going for 50% last month. You can also buy them on Newegg 


I have a Motorola 2 tuner HD DVR from Brighthouse Networks that has a DVI out that goes to the AVM-50 via a DVI/HDMI cable.


I leave my DVR on all the time (its leased so I don't care if it breaks).


I have set the Anthem video output to

a. HDMI

b. 1920x1080i/60

c. HDTV

d. Extended RGB

f. Normal


Software version is 1.01


My DVR is set to output 16:9, 1080i (this givs me the best picture quality to my eyes) and 4:3 overide is set to 480i (this eliminates black bars on SDTV)


My setup works for me with only one issue so far. If I turn the Anthem on to just listen to music and then turn the TV on to watch cable, the picture flickers.


The solution is to turn everything off and then turn the TV on,followed by the Anthem.


My normal sequence to watch cable is to power on the TV and then the Anthem. I am able to switch inputs without any flicker.


----------



## LEVESQUE

With my D2 I'm using:


-Sony "Ruby" VPL-VW100 at 1080p over HDMI. Working like a champ with the D2. No glitches, no bugs, and just awesome PQ.










-Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player. Working flawlessy for me. I have the "HDMI error" once and a while, but just pressing "play" 2 or 3 times on the remote easily get rid of it. HDMI to HDMI.


-Star Choice DSR530, HD PVR (satellite). DVI to HDMI. If I power it on before the D2, then everything works fine. Switching inputs, etc. If I power it on after the D2, then I have to power off and on the D2 to make it work.


-Pioneer 633 DVD recorder. Component to D2. Working like a champ.


-Pioneer 79AVi WAS working like a champ also. But I just sold it to get a Blu-Ray player soon.


I also tried with my D2:


-Oppo 971H. DVI to HDMI. Working perfectly.


-Denon 1910. DVI to HDMI. No problems.


----------



## randman

Levesque - thanks for the info. Since the Denon 1910 works, sounds like my Denon 3910 will probably work just fine.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My quest to see a D2 or an AVM-50 live have proved to be rather futile. Well... sorry for the rant I just had to vent a little.



Obie

There aren't too many D2's at dealers yet to be seen. If you'd like to take the drive down here to West Palm area, you can view mine! I bought mine sight unseen based on the recommendations of Alain (levesque) and Stan (gostan). (I'm the friend in Florida that gostan speaks of that got my unit on Thursday). I'm having ALL of the Toshiba XA1 HDMI issues talked about here in this thread, but I believe they will all shake out soon with new firmware from Anthem and Toshiba. Meanwhile, there is plenty to see if you want to make the trip. OBTW, it needs to be in the evening since I have a pj in a non light controlled room.


----------



## obie_fl

Jerry - Thanks for the very generous offer but I'm swapped for the next several weeks. I think I finally have a bead on a D2 so I may end up with one sight unseen like yourself. Hopefully I'll be posting once I have it installed in a month or so. Thanks again.


----------



## Capfacsurf

When my source is DD, I can't get any modes other than None, or Movie THX. What am I doing wrong? I have tried to set the mode preset to vaious settings, but still have the same problem. I am waiting for the D2 upgrade to be announced , so this issue is with my D1.

Thanks for any suggestions.


----------



## Capfacsurf

Nevermid....I found the poblem. Unexplicably, I had the rear speakers set to Off in my speaker configuration.With the setting restored to On, all the modes have re-emerged. Now I can relax. That woulda' drove me crazy all weekend!


----------



## Max Spivak

Does anyone know how much a D1->D2 upgrade will cost?


----------



## shah993

Does anyone have HDMI issues with the Sony DVP 995V?When connected to the D2 with HDMI I get no signal but with componant it is no problem.


----------



## TomHuffman

I understand that the difference between the AVM 40 and 50 is that only the 50 includes the Gennum scaler. However, does the AVM 40 include a HDMI video output with no scaling or processing?


----------



## Milt99

Tom,

You are correct, the 40 does HDMI switching only.

Here's a comparison grid between Anthem's pre/pros
Features


----------



## TomHuffman

Yes, I have already looked at this. It dosn't say anything about video outputs. Does the AVM 40 have a pass-through HDMI video output?


----------



## obie_fl

The comparison grid says the AVM-40 can convert S-Video and component to HDMI, it also says it accepts 1080P/60hz. My understanding is the 40 "transcodes" video to HDMI and the 50 and D2 actually de-interlace and scale video. HDMI would be pretty useless if it didn't pass on the video.


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you post all your settings in the D2 nenu item "5. Source setup/Presets" for the 79AVi?
> 
> 
> You should use:
> 
> -Audio In: Dig HDMI
> 
> -Auto dig: No
> 
> -HDMI 6ch map: did you try it?
> 
> 
> But just post all your settings in that menu.



Ok, here are my settings:


HDMI Repeater: No

d,e,f: set to NONE

Audio In: Dig HDMI

Auto Dig: No

HDMI 6ch Map: Auto


I hooked up the 6 channel analog audio out from the 79avi and I can finally listen to the Foreigner 4 DVD-Audio in multichannel surround sound. "Juke Box Hero" sounds fantastic, and "Urgent"? I'm in heaven







And it doesn't sound any worse than REM through HDMI. In other words, not much difference between digital and analog in this case.


Anyways, the only item left in my issues list is getting the AVM50 to accept 720p from my computer.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FerretHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, the only item left in my issues list is getting the AVM50 to accept 720p from my computer.



Ferret,

What wire are you using to transfer video signal from your computer?

What video card do you have in your computer?


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ferret,
> 
> What wire are you using to transfer video signal from your computer?
> 
> What video card do you have in your computer?



I use a DVI/HDMI adaptor connected to the DVI out of the video card, then an HDMI cable into the AVM50. My video card is an ATI All-In-Wonder 9800 Pro. If I connect the other end of the HDMI cable into the Optoma H79 DVI/HDMI adaptor (connected to the H79's DVI input), it works fine.


I've set my desktop resolution to 1280x720 (60 Hz). Maybe I should try downloading powerstrip and using its' builtin HDTV timings?


----------



## rsbeck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tried to buy a used D1 on Audiogon last year and they would only take an MO, no escrow or paypal etc. I wasn't about to send that big an MO across the country. Been afraid of the place ever since, seems like there are a lot of shady dealers/postings there.



I've bought lots of gear on Audiogon and have never had a bad experience. I always check the people out first, but I have wired money orders in advance, Fed Exed checks in advance and waited for them to clear before the seller ships, etc.


You've got to look at it from the seller's point of view, too.


Would you ship gear to someone and then hope they pay you?


I wouldn't.


I have also sold gear on Audiogon and I always demand payment before I ship.


Check the seller's feedback, get their address, phone number, phone number of their workplace. Check to make sure their workplace has a listed number. Call their employer, check with people who have bought from the before, whatever you have to do. But, you have to send the money first.


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsbeck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've bought lots of gear on Audiogon and have never had a bad experience. I always check the people out first, but I have wired money orders in advance, Fed Exed checks in advance and waited for them to clear before the seller ships, etc.
> 
> 
> You've got to look at it from the seller's point of view, too.
> 
> 
> Would you ship gear to someone and then hope they pay you?
> 
> 
> I wouldn't.
> 
> 
> I have also sold gear on Audiogon and I always demand payment before I ship.
> 
> 
> Check the seller's feedback, get their address, phone number, phone number of their workplace. Check to make sure their workplace has a listed number. Call their employer, check with people who have bought from the before, whatever you have to do. But, you have to send the money first.



Same here, I always demand payment before I ship and send money first when I buy. I prefer sending and receiving postal money orders, never had any problems on Audiogon.


R


----------



## obie_fl

Of course if I was selling I would demand payment but I wouldn't expect someone to send me a MO before I shipped. I'm fine with PayPal and escrow services but the transaction I originally mentioned wanted an MO and there was some other lose ends to the story.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FerretHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I use a DVI/HDMI adaptor connected to the DVI out of the video card, then an HDMI cable into the AVM50. My video card is an ATI All-In-Wonder 9800 Pro. If I connect the other end of the HDMI cable into the Optoma H79 DVI/HDMI adaptor (connected to the H79's DVI input), it works fine.
> 
> 
> I've set my desktop resolution to 1280x720 (60 Hz). Maybe I should try downloading powerstrip and using its' builtin HDTV timings?



Did you try s-video out

Also, did you try to change the settings on your input to your scaler.

press and hold for about 4 sec #7 key on your remote this will take you to video portion settings, and see if you could change it there to get to work.

Let us know


----------



## htfool

Anybody looking to buy a D2 with new software for hdmi? looking to aell mine!


----------



## htfool

Anybody looking to buy a D2 with new software for hdmi? Looking to sell mine!


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htfool* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anybody looking to buy a D2 with new software for hdmi? Looking to sell mine!



Why are you selling?


----------



## Gooddoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htfool* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anybody looking to buy a D2 with new software for hdmi? Looking to sell mine!



htfool, check your PM


----------



## htfool

I have two units....Dont need both.


----------



## whitewolf1

Is one a D1 upgrade? How much?


----------



## htfool

It's a brand new d2. 5995.00


----------



## LEVESQUE

For those interested to use a 480i over HDMI player with the D2, the Oppo 970HD is now shipping. I just ordered one...


149$ for 480i over HDMI 1.1! LOL...


----------



## pciav

I ordered the Oppo to. I will compare it to the Sony DVP-NS975V that I am currently using. The Sony outputs YCbCr 4:2:2, the Oppo outputs YCbCr 4:4:4.


The audio via HDMI seems to be a little confusing for the Oppo. If you choose HDMI 1.1 audio options all decoding takes place in the Oppo and is sent out as PCM, this is fine for SACD and DVD-A to take advantage of the HDMI connection, but for DD & DTS soundtracks it looks like you have to change the audio output options to let the D2 (or whatever SSP or receiver you are using) decode the "Raw" bitstream.



> Quote:
> *Surround Speakers and HDMI 1.1 Multi-Channel PCM Audio Support:* If your receiver supports HDMI 1.1 Multi-Channel PCM audio, please set Speaker Setup Page > Down-mix to 5.1 CH and Audio Setup Page > HDMI Audio to Multi-Channel. *In this configuration you can enjoy all audio formats using the HDMI connection. The DVD player performs decoding for compressed audio.*





> Quote:
> *Surround and Dolby Digital or DTS Support, or HDMI 1.0:* If the audio system has surround speakers and can support Dolby Digital or DTS with its HDMI input, please set Audio Setup Page > HDMI Audio to SPDIF AND Audio Setup Page > SPDIF Output to Raw. *In this case your audio system will perform decoding for Dolby Digital or DTS surround audio.* Unfortunately the HDMI standard does not allow DVD-Audio or SACD to be sent over HDMI in this configuration.



I'll give it a try and see how it goes.


----------



## notanewbie

May I ask where you guys bought your Oppo's? PM me if you cannot post it. THX


----------



## pciav

Here is the link to Oppo's site: DV-970HD


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> *Originally posted by LEVESQUE* "For those interested to use a 480i over HDMI player with the D2, the Oppo 970HD is now shipping. I just ordered one..."



I thought you already had a DVD player that will do 480i over HDMI (Pioneer DV-79avi), if so why buy the Oppo? I'm just curious because I have the 79avi. Is there something wrong with the Pioneer player, or could you just not pass up a bargain!










BTW, I pick up my D2 next week!


----------



## Nathan_R

I echo mlbrand's question, as I, too, have a DV-79AVi (and an HD-XA1). My AVM-50 is due to arrive Friday and the wait is absolutely killing me!


----------



## gostan

Nothing wrong with the Pioneer player at all. I believe that Alain simply sold his Pioneer DV-79avi to a friend and opted for the new bargain DV-970HD 480i player from Oppo to go along with his Toshiba HD-A1.


I had the Pioneer in play for a few weeks and was even thinking about a Marantz DV-9600. But, instead, the Toshiba HD player, along with the Oppo DV-970HD were a more future proofed cost-effective way to get an HD player and a 480i player for less than the price of the Pioneer player. Still have a few bucks left over to apply to a Blu ray player.


----------



## dsm363

I bought the Sony 9100ES DVD player a month before I decided to buy my D2. This is a very nice DVD player but doesn't output 480i over HDMI. Would the picture quality really be that much better getting something like the Opppo DV970HD with 480i over HDMI vs. the build quality of something like a $1200 DVD player with the D2? Thanks.


----------



## DrJRapp

Levesque


I know you probably speak to Nick at Anthem frequently as a beta tester. Any word on when the new firmware release should occur?


----------



## LEVESQUE

I' m sorry Jerry, but I don't have any dates for the next firmware release. But it will fix alot of incompatibilities with manufacturers not fallowing HDMI specs strictly like they should...


Like Gostan said, I sold my 79AVi to a friend because the upcoming Pioneer Elite Blu-Ray player will be able to do 480i over HDMI for standard DVDs, and I should get a pre-production unit soon. So the Oppo 970HD will be perfect until then.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I' m sorry Jerry, but I don't have any dates for the next firmware release. But it will fix alot of incompatibilities with manufacturers not fallowing HDMI specs strictly like they should...
> 
> 
> Like Gostan said, I sold my 79AVi to a friend because the upcoming Pioneer Elite Blu-Ray player will be able to do 480i over HDMI for standard DVDs, and I should get a pre-production unit soon. So the Oppo 970HD will be perfect until then.



Alain,


I'm actually going to do the exact same thing when the Pio BluRay comes out. I will dump my 79avi on Audiogon, and move on up to BluRay! For now though, it's a great player, and I have no regrets at all...very versatile, does exactly what I need right now.


I am hearing that the Pio BluRay player is delayed now, I heard a September-ish rumor...you got any dirt on that?


-Brian


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am hearing that the Pio BluRay player is delayed now, I heard a September-ish rumor...you got any dirt on that?



I have a good contact at Pioneer, and he told me "after the PS3" last week... But pre-production units should be available for reviewers soon, but in a very small quantity...


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a good contact at Pioneer, and he told me "after the PS3" last week... But pre-production units should be available for reviewers soon, but in a very small quantity...



Uggh, ok, longer than I thought then, probably November/December-ish...maybe they will release in time for Christmas season. I will give the gift of BluRay to myself at Christmas this year then. I certainly have enough great content to keep me entertained until then, with the D2 providing excellent upscaling of old fashioned DVD's! They look amazing, actually I'm dying to compare the quality of my Superbit Fifth Element DVD to the new BluRay release, as I see its one of the first that will come out.


Ahh yes, more toys!


----------



## Poiram

Hi, I just got a D2, what a machine.


My tv is a RPTV, a Pioneer SD-533Hd5, Its support 1080i true component. The image is just supperb. I intend to plug my Denon 5900 true the DVi output(with an hdmi adapter) and also to plug my Bell 9200 true the HDMI ourput.


I have tried to plug the 9200 to the D2 using the hdmi and send it to the D2 component output. I get the sound, but no image, I did select the proper input in the SAT config on the D2.


I did tried it from component to component and iTs fine, but i would like to use it HDMI to Component.


Any hint?


Thanks


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Yes, the problem is that the D2 will not transcode from HDMI to component. This would infringe on current copyright specifications. It will transcode from component, S Video, composite video to HDMI only.


This topic has been covered a few times within this thread.




Regards,


----------



## notanewbie

Yes, but the D2 will transcode composite, component and s-video to component and transcode composite, component and s-video to HDMI, the only thing it cannot do (or any other processor I know of) is take an HDMI digital signal and transcode it to analog component.


Digital stays digital, analog stays analog and analog can go out digital, but digital cant go out analog.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> *Originally posted by LEVESQUE* "Like Gostan said, I sold my 79AVi to a friend because the upcoming Pioneer Elite Blu-Ray player will be able to do 480i over HDMI for standard DVDs, and I should get a pre-production unit soon. So the Oppo 970HD will be perfect until then. "



That makes sense, as long as you're not into SACD, or you have another player for multi-channel audio duties. I picked up my 79AVi mainly for the superior audio and multi-channel audio capabilities, as well as the 480i DVD output. I hope that someday, somebody will come out with a HD-DVD/Blu-Ray/multi-channel audio player, but that's not very likely.


----------



## Poiram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notanewbie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Digital stays digital, analog stays analog and analog can go out digital, but digital cant go out analog.



Why not since everything can be process, it has to go digital first, process and then back to analog?


----------



## Clepto




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I hope that someday, somebody will come out with a HD-DVD/Blu-Ray/multi-channel audio player, but that's not very likely.



I'm counting on Denon! (;


----------



## richkorn

When I run my Toshiba HD-DVD, or other video sources through the D2 the picture is terrible ... lots of green. However, the picture quality is exeptional if I take the D2 out of the loop? I only chaqnged the DVD Video source to HDM1 and Audio to Digital Optical 1. All else is factory settings ?????


Any help would be appreciated


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richkorn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When I run my Toshiba HD-DVD, or other video sources through the D2 the picture is terrible ... lots of green. However, the picture quality is exeptional if I take the D2 out of the loop? I only chaqnged the DVD Video source to HDM1 and Audio to Digital Optical 1. All else is factory settings ?????
> 
> 
> Any help would be appreciated



That's exactly what I've been experiencing with my D2 except my colors lean heavily towards the reds. I've been in contact with Nick at Anthem, and the bottom line is that they really don't have a handle on this one yet. They are working feverishly on a firmware fix which hopefully will come soon or my $6700 D2 will go soon and be replaced by a $400 Sony reciever that at least works. (god forbid!)


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's exactly what I've been experiencing with my D2 except my colors lean heavily towards the reds. I've been in contact with Nick at Anthem, and the bottom line is that they really don't have a handle on this one yet. They are working feverishly on a firmware fix which hopefully will come soon or my $6700 D2 will go soon and be replaced by a $400 Sony reciever that at least works. (god forbid!)



Sony Ouch!

Hope you will stick with them and your unit. D2 is amazing.

Spoke to Nick today and the update for D2 is delayed, but beta version should be available soon.

This is do to some companies like TO*****, Pa***** and lower end companies. Production units from them uses less expensive components. (like DVI to HDMI adapters build in) They are cutting corners when it comes to HDMI (assuming that people buying $150.00 DVD players will not use HDMI because of the HDMI cable pricing) This is very unfortunate, because early adopters like us will suffer. This is do to problematic voltage stability/connection problems on some of the HDMI plugs (thats y you get a red /pink or green screens).

Don't forget most (about 80% of) units are build for component video out and not for HDMI.

HDMI cables are not even build to the sane standard.

HDMI has agreed, that the standard is not refined enough and thats Y 1.3 is getting developed. This standard will NOT be backwards compatible









Read this:
HDMI HAS PROBLEMS 

Unfortunately this is life and you get what you paid for.


----------



## audiman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Poiram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi, I just got a D2, what a machine.
> 
> 
> My tv is a RPTV, a Pioneer SD-533Hd5, Its support 1080i true component. The image is just supperb. I intend to plug my Denon 5900 true the DVi output(with an hdmi adapter) and also to plug my Bell 9200 true the HDMI ourput.
> 
> 
> I have tried to plug the 9200 to the D2 using the hdmi and send it to the D2 component output. I get the sound, but no image, I did select the proper input in the SAT config on the D2.
> 
> 
> I did tried it from component to component and iTs fine, but i would like to use it HDMI to Component.
> 
> 
> Any hint?
> 
> 
> Thanks



You need a DVI to VGA converter. Works fine with HDCP content, but there's a slight white crush with bright scenes.


Alain : on what player are u going to play SACD/DVD-A ?


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richkorn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When I run my Toshiba HD-DVD, or other video sources through the D2 the picture is terrible ... lots of green. However, the picture quality is exeptional if I take the D2 out of the loop? I only chaqnged the DVD Video source to HDM1 and Audio to Digital Optical 1. All else is factory settings ?????
> 
> 
> Any help would be appreciated



I was having a horrible time getting DVI out of my STB (SA 3250) into the AVM50. When it did work, the picture was horribly green. You should try the following to fix the problem:


1. Boot up the Toshiba HD-DVD.

2. Set the D2 input to whatever the Toshiba is connected to.

3. Turn off the D2. Wait a few seconds.

4. Turn on the D2.


If that doesn't work, contact Nick for the beta firmware. Load it into the D2 and then try the above order of equipment startup.


To solve my STB problem, I applied a beta firmware and then followed the above order of turning on equipment. It worked for me. I think though the beta firmware was not required. It's all about proper sequence of handshaking when it comes to HDMI.


Oh, and I have the HDMI Repeater setting to No. In a previous tuning exercise, it didn't seem to matter if this was set to Yes or No, so I just leave it at No.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Alain : on what player are u going to play SACD/DVD-A ?



Oppo 970HD through HDMI 1.1... both SACD and DVD-A... for now...










I'm sorry for you guys. I'm using the 4 HDMI connections w/o any problems. Toshiba HD-A1 is working like a charm for me. Powering on everything in the right order is really important, or else the handshakes are not done properly.


----------



## richkorn

Thanks for the input Big relief to know I am not the only one experiencing this problem. Glad I ran across forum. But how do I find "Nick" or better yet the link to his beta firmware upgrade?


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richkorn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input Big relief to know I am not the only one experiencing this problem. Glad I ran across forum. But how do I find "Nick" or better yet the link to his beta firmware upgrade?



Richkorn,

Wait for 2 weeks, or if you can't you could send an e-mail to Nick

Go to Anthem Website, than go to tech support, click on the link

Tell them your problem, also include all the components that are part of the problem and your setting on D2 for that componnent

That e-mail will get to nick very quickly

Hope this helps


----------



## Poiram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> . Powering on everything in the right order is really important, or else the handshakes are not done properly.



What do you mean?


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richkorn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input Big relief to know I am not the only one experiencing this problem. Glad I ran across forum. But how do I find "Nick" or better yet the link to his beta firmware upgrade?



Just ask Nick to send it to you and I'm sure he will. The beta firmware he sent me was for the AVM50, so you probably shouldn't use it on your D2, even though the firmware may be the same.


----------



## lchurch

I picked up my replacement D2 last night (just in the nick of time as the old unit wouldn't stay on for longer than 15 minutes -- with 6 fans). I did manage to get through the basic setup and managed to verify that things worked.


I did have color problems from time to time on my defective D2 -- a power cycle usually cleaned that up (since my HDMI input -- HR10-250 -- is always on).


I do have a question about how the record path works. I have a Pioneer DVR533 connected to the VCR input and a JVC HR-S5902 connected to the TAPE input. How do I get the TAPE input connected to the RECORD path and can I monitor (via MAIN) the source and the destination? The description in the manual didn't make sense to me (it's like they assumed you just *knew*).



larry


----------



## richkorn

What is the anthem website?


----------



## Nathan_R

 www.anthemav.com


----------



## richkorn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richkorn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the anthem website?




Scrath that I found it!


----------



## gostan

My Oppo 970HD just arrived. While I did purchase it for its ability to output 480i to the D2, I do remain interested in comparing its' SACD sound with that of my Denon 2900.


----------



## Nathan_R

I'm also curious about the multichannel audio capabilities of the Oppo. Please let us know your results.


----------



## richkorn

Would someone suggest

a good place to buy Long HDMI Cables?


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richkorn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Would someone suggest
> 
> a good place to buy Long HDMI Cables?



I use Kimber Kable for almost everything in my system. The Kimber HDMI comes in all different sizes up to about 20 meters. I have bought some at AudioAdvisor, and they even did overnight shipping for me once. You can get a 10 meter size for instance for $260.


Hope this helps.


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richkorn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Would someone suggest
> 
> a good place to buy Long HDMI Cables?



I bought a 16ft long cable from www.pacificcable.com a couple of years ago. No problems with the cable. I had ordered a cable from better cables because they advertised silver conductor in the cable. When I got the cable and found out it was an import from China with no silver, they refunded my money and updated their website to say the HDMI cables are not made of silver.


I've bought DVI cables from pacific cable as well and have never had a problem. Prices are very reasonable.


----------



## Nathan_R

My AVM-50 arrived today and so far I'm in heaven. It turns out that my Mits WD-52628 accepts 1080p over HDMI afterall. I'm still playing with the AVM's scaler, but so far, it blows away any other scaler I've tried.


I've noticed something, though, but I don't think the Anthem's at fault. When I powered down the Anthem and my Motorola 3412, my DCT-3412 resets to its default settings. I go from 16x9 @ 1080i at power-off to 4x3 @480i when I turn the units back on.


I have the HDMI Repeater option turned off for what it's worth.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richkorn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Would someone suggest
> 
> a good place to buy Long HDMI Cables?



You can buy a 50' cable for $95.00 from Monoprice (a site sponser) here... http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...ormat=2&style= 


I have bought a lot from these folks with great results. Ships same or next day, depending on the time ordered.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richkorn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Would someone suggest
> 
> a good place to buy Long HDMI Cables?



Also try
Blue Jeans Cable click here and it will take you to their web site 

They are suporters of this website


----------



## LEVESQUE

There is a brand new Toshiba firmware for the Toshiba HD-A1 and HD-AX1 HD-DVD players here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post7763031 


For those having problems with the combo HD-A1/HD-AX1 and D2/AVM50, I think it's a really good idea to at least give it a try. It's solving alot of problems with handshakes and compabilties with that player.


It's really easy to install the firmware if you fallow the instructions carefully. I did it with my Toshiba HD-A1 yesterday w/o any problems.


----------



## gostan

I ran my 970HD through some preliminary paces last evening. Hooked up through the enclosed HDMi cable, but I am not able to obtain 5.1 sound through the D2-just intermittent surround sound. It may be a bum hdmi cable, although I do receive SACD 5.1. Very strange. So, I got an extra coax dig cable and all was OK. Watched Freedomland and for now I am pretty sure that I will be committed to watching all SD's through the Oppo and not the Toshiba XA1 as the interface is easier to use and the PQ is pretty amazing for a $149 player. I will have to watch more to offer a fuller report.


It was not the hdmi cable; I did not have HDMI audio on spdif. Works fine now.


As for SACD, I am receiving 5.1 sound, but the Anthem must be simply converting 2 channel to 5.1, as there is an issue obtaining sacd with the Oppo connected to the D2.


Gotta go to work. Catch up later.


----------



## RMK

I am having troubles getting 4:3 non-anamorphic DVD material to display correctly on the D2. I am using a Denon DVD 5900 via component input into the D2 with component output from the D2. The DVD 5900 is configured for a 16x9 display and interlaced output. Prior to the D2, I would run the 5900 with progressive output and squeeze mode enabled. This gave me a properly scaled 4:3 image centered in a 16:9 display.


What I am getting on the D2 is a letterboxed image, but the 4:3 content is completely stretched edge to edge on the display. I really want just pillarboxed output. I have talked with Nick at Anthem about this, and he tells me to use 4:3 crop and Letterbox/pillarbox on the scaling menu. This does not give me pillarboxed output.


The only way that I have found to fix this is to set the DVD 5900 to 4:3 letterboxed. This works, but is not practical for casual browsing through lots of extras on a DVD. Nick has also told me to always leave the player in 16:9 mode.


Does anyone using the D2 get their 4:3 material to display in the correct aspect ratio while leaving the DVD player in 16:9 format? Thanks for the help.


Robert


----------



## pciav

Some quick Oppo 970-HD impressions: The first good thing I guess is that it works without issue with the D2. It is the quickest and most responsive DVD player I have used. Overall image quality is excellent. I did a direct comparison to the Sony DVP-NS975V I was using and overall the Oppo is the winner. The Oppo is a tad sharper, a little less noise, and fewer artifacts. I have not done much extensive viewing other than setup and test clips, but so far I like what I see.


As far as the sound goes, I have not had any problems getting DD & DTS over the HDMI connection, but I have had no success in getting DVD-A & SACD to play in multi-channel. All I get is two channels. I've tried all the settings listed in the setup guide for Downmix, SPDIF & HDMI Audio options. If anybody manages to get this to work, please post your settings.


Overall the Oppo is a keeper and a bargain at $149.


A new D2 problem developed today that I can not figure out. I can no longer get the setup screen to display on-screen all I get is a blue screen with no text. The VP menu comes up no problem and the OSD status text appear fine, but I can no longer access the setup screen, strange. I will report this to Anthem. It's been a while since the last beta release. I hope the new release solves some more problems.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Some quick Oppo 970-HD impressions: The first good thing I guess is that it works without issue with the D2. It is the quickest and most responsive DVD player I have used. Overall image quality is excellent. I did a direct comparison to the Sony DVP-NS975V I was using and overall the Oppo is the winner. The Oppo is a tad sharper, a little less noise, and fewer artifacts. I have not done much extensive viewing other than setup and test clips, but so far I like what I see.
> 
> 
> As far as the sound goes, I have not had any problems getting DD & DTS over the HDMI connection, but I have had no success in getting DVD-A & SACD to play in multi-channel. All I get is two channels. I've tried all the settings listed in the setup guide for Downmix, SPDIF & HDMI Audio options. If anybody manages to get this to work, please post your settings.
> 
> 
> Overall the Oppo is a keeper and a bargain at $149.
> 
> 
> A new D2 problem developed today that I can not figure out. I can no longer get the setup screen to display on-screen all I get is a blue screen with no text. The VP menu comes up no problem and the OSD status text appear fine, but I can no longer access the setup screen, strange. I will report this to Anthem. It's been a while since the last beta release. I hope the new release solves some more problems.



Phil,


Try unpluging your Oppo DVD HDMI cable and see if screen comes up

This may work


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RMK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am having troubles getting 4:3 non-anamorphic DVD material to display correctly on the D2. I am using a Denon DVD 5900 via component input into the D2 with component output from the D2. The DVD 5900 is configured for a 16x9 display and interlaced output. Prior to the D2, I would run the 5900 with progressive output and squeeze mode enabled. This gave me a properly scaled 4:3 image centered in a 16:9 display.
> 
> 
> What I am getting on the D2 is a letterboxed image, but the 4:3 content is completely stretched edge to edge on the display. I really want just pillarboxed output. I have talked with Nick at Anthem about this, and he tells me to use 4:3 crop and Letterbox/pillarbox on the scaling menu. This does not give me pillarboxed output.
> 
> 
> The only way that I have found to fix this is to set the DVD 5900 to 4:3 letterboxed. This works, but is not practical for casual browsing through lots of extras on a DVD. Nick has also told me to always leave the player in 16:9 mode.
> 
> 
> Does anyone using the D2 get their 4:3 material to display in the correct aspect ratio while leaving the DVD player in 16:9 format? Thanks for the help.
> 
> 
> Robert



Yes, you can acces that menu on scaler screen, just press #7 on the remote and you can change it there


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Phil,
> 
> 
> Try unpluging your Oppo DVD HDMI cable and see if screen comes up
> 
> This may work



I'll give it a try when I get a chance. Any idea why that would be causing it? doesn't make sense... Another interesting quirk is that when I use the Toshiba HD-D1 HD DVD player, the info page in the VP section shows blanks, no input information or sound information. Patiently wating for the next round of fixes...


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As far as the sound goes, I have not had any problems getting DD & DTS over the HDMI connection, but I have had no success in getting DVD-A & SACD to play in multi-channel. All I get is two channels. I've tried all the settings listed in the setup guide for Downmix, SPDIF & HDMI Audio options. If anybody manages to get this to work, please post your settings.



Phil, try going into the General Setup Menu and item 5 is SACD priority. Make Multi-Channel the first SACD priority. And I believe that Down-Mix in the Speaker Menu should be on 5.1 CH. Hope this helps.


----------



## gostan

The XA-1 firmware update has resolved all of the fairly intermittent handshaking issues I was having at startup between the XA-1 and the D2. Nice of Toshiba to get off of the couch and resolve its' own problems.


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Phil, try going into the General Setup Menu and item 5 is SACD priority. Make Multi-Channel the first SACD priority. And I believe that Down-Mix in the Speaker Menu should be on Stereo, not 5.1 CH as 5.1 CH is if you are using analog cables instead of hdmi. Hope this helps.



Hi Stan,


I do have the Priority set to Multi-Channel for SACD and DVD-Audio for DVD-A. In the downmix page I have 5.1 set as this is what is says in the setup guide:

*"Surround Speakers and HDMI 1.1 Multi-Channel PCM Audio Support: If your receiver supports HDMI 1.1 Multi-Channel PCM audio, please set Speaker Setup Page > Down-mix to 5.1 CH and Audio Setup Page > HDMI Audio to Multi-Channel. In this configuration you can enjoy all audio formats using the HDMI connection. The DVD player performs decoding for compressed audio."*


I will try playing with some more and different settings to see if I can get anything to work. It also says in the manual that the Downmix settings do affect the Digital Output, but yet they are telling you to set it 5.1 CH.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Another interesting quirk is that when I use the Toshiba HD-D1 HD DVD player, the info page in the VP section shows blanks, no input information or sound information.



I told Nick about that one a couple of weeks ago. If you power off the D2 and then power it on again, then all the infos are there.


They have both a Toshiba HD-A1 and the new Oppo 970HD at Anthem, so the next firmware upgrade should solve any problems with those.


----------



## pciav

I have tried any and all combination of settings to get the Oppo to output 5.1 sound for DVD-A & SACD with no luck. All ouput is two channel PCM @ 48 Khz for DVD-A and 88.2 for SACD. I'll check with Oppo on this Monday and check the main Oppo thread to see if there is any info. Again, if anyone is sucessful, please post your settings.

-------------------------------------------------

Levesque,

I have also been keeping Nick up to date wtih any and all issues I have found to date.


----------



## whitewolf1

I am intigued by the D2's abilities as I understand them but not sure I fully comprehend the video scaling aspects. I have an H79 projector with a native resolution of 1280x720. The H79 has an internal scaler which is obviously not up to the D2's standard but if my HDTivo is set at 720p and goes to the D2 then to the H79 won't the D2 upscale the res to 1080p and go to the H79 which will scale it back down to 720p? Can the D2 be set at 720p? I am trying to determine whether I will have a compatibility issue with too much scaling, deinterlacing sort of thing. I could set the HDtivo to 480i for sd and let the D2 scale but what about HD?

DJ


----------



## tngiloy

I'm new to this site so please forgive me if I ask questions that may have been answered before. I got my D2 yesterday. Hooked up my D* HR10-250 and Pioneer dv-79avi via hdmi cables to the D2 and hdmi out from D2 to samsung 1080p dlp hdmi in.

I got a picture from the satellite feed and was able to fine tune thru D2, but no matter what I did I couldn't get a picture from the dvd. All I get is a big, blue blank screen indicating that the tv isn't getting a signal.I made sure that the dvd was set to hdmi output-it had been hooked to tv directly by hdmi before with a good picture as had the sat- I changed cables and inputs with the sat to make sure that the cables were OK. Still just a blue screen. Its not flickering like its trying to lock on to a signal, just blank like its getting no signal from the dvd to the D2.

I' usually pretty good at troubleshooting, but I'm stumped. I see that some of you are using the same pioneer dvd player with the D2 so I'm hoping someone can help.

I also tried turning on the dvd first then the D2, and visa versa. Nothing.

I was able to hook up the pioneer via component cables and digital coax to the D2 and get a picture and sound, but I was hoping to be able to use hdmi for all the connections.


----------



## TomHuffman




> Quote:
> I am intigued by the D2's abilities as I understand them but not sure I fully comprehend the video scaling aspects. I have an H79 projector with a native resolution of 1280x720. The H79 has an internal scaler which is obviously not up to the D2's standard but if my HDTivo is set at 720p and goes to the D2 then to the H79 won't the D2 upscale the res to 1080p and go to the H79 which will scale it back down to 720p? Can the D2 be set at 720p? I am trying to determine whether I will have a compatibility issue with too much scaling, deinterlacing sort of thing. I could set the HDtivo to 480i for sd and let the D2 scale but what about HD?



The D2 can be set to output a signal at several resolutions: 1080p, 1080i, 720p, plus numerous others.

If I were you, I'd set my TIVO to output 1080i and then have the D2 scale it to 720p before going into the H79, Make sure that you set the H79 at "Native" so it applies no scaling of its own.


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was able to hook up the pioneer via component cables and digital coax to the D2 and get a picture and sound, but I was hoping to be able to use hdmi for all the connections.



Is your 79AVi's HDMI indicator light still active on the front panel? Is it possible the Pioneer reverted to component-only output when you changed your equipment setup? I initially forgot to switch the video output to 480i on my 79AVi before connecting the my AVM-50.


----------



## whitewolf1

Thank you for the reply Tom! I am seriously considering the D2 and your setup solution makes sense.

DJ


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have tried any and all combination of settings to get the Oppo to output 5.1 sound for DVD-A & SACD with no luck. All ouput is two channel PCM @ 48 Khz for DVD-A and 88.2 for SACD. I'll check with Oppo on this Monday and check the main Oppo thread to see if there is any info. Again, if anyone is sucessful, please post your settings.



Phil... I was under the assumption that HDMI has never been certified to pass multichannel SACD... the only digital connections that I know of that pass SACD digitally are the Denon's through Denon Link 2 and some Pioneer models thru Firewire....


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Phil... I was under the assumption that HDMI has never been certified to pass multichannel SACD... the only digital connections that I know of that pass SACD digitally are the Denon's through Denon Link 2 and some Pioneer models thru Firewire....



Agreed, but all info known so far about the Oppo suggests that it will decode DSD to PCM and pass it along via an HDMI 1.1 connection. We'll find out soon enough.


If it works, it is a nice bonus. The video performance and the extremely fast operation of the Oppo are what really have impressed me so far.


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have tried any and all combination of settings to get the Oppo to output 5.1 sound for DVD-A & SACD with no luck. All ouput is two channel PCM @ 48 Khz for DVD-A and 88.2 for SACD. I'll check with Oppo on this Monday and check the main Oppo thread to see if there is any info. Again, if anyone is sucessful, please post your settings.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Levesque,
> 
> I have also been keeping Nick up to date wtih any and all issues I have found to date.



This is a known issue between the two pieces and Anthem is working on it. It will be fixed very shortly as they are currently working on it.


----------



## Armin2

Hi All,

new on the D2.

Got one in 230V.

What a heck of a piece. Like it so much.


Best

Armin


----------



## Armin2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richkorn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Would someone suggest
> 
> a good place to buy Long HDMI Cables?



Hi,

give the supra cables a try. I used the Supra HDMI with big success


Best

Armin


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is a known issue between the two pieces and Anthem is working on it. It will be fixed very shortly as they are currently working on it.



Thanks for the info Kris. Looking forward to the next software release on several levels...


----------



## randman

I've been itching to get an Anthem D2 or 50, but am somewhat concerned about the pending HDMI 1.3 spec.... In the future, HD-DVD and Blue Ray DVD players (at least better ones) will be able to output 7.1 PCM channels via HDMI so that HDMI 1.1 pre/pros like the Anthem D2/50 can take advantage of the new surround formats (see http://www.twice.com/article/CA6260470.html for more information).


Question: if 7.1 PCM is used, will the Anthem D2/50 be able to do any post-processing on the 7.1 PCM channels (such as lip-sync delay, use of speaker/listener distance settings, center channel EQ, subwoofer notch filter, etc.)??


Also, if/when HDMI 1.3 is finalized, I a1ssume Anthem will provide an upgrade for it? Is it likely to require a hardware upgrade? I understand that the answer to this would be just speculation for now, but wanted to see if others had an opinion...


Thanks.


----------



## Gooddoc

Kris,


How is the full review of the D2 coming along? Just curious, not rushing you or anything


----------



## TomHuffman

Since NO titles are actually encoded with discrete 7.1 data, other than being future-proof, what's the advantage of the 1.3 spec in this regard?


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gooddoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kris,
> 
> 
> How is the full review of the D2 coming along? Just curious, not rushing you or anything



It is just about complete. I am waiting on the next firmware to address some issues that I know are going to be resolved before I publish though.



> Quote:
> Would someone suggest a good place to buy Long HDMI Cables?



I would recommend the Ultra Run series from Accell. They offer up to 45M and guarantee their cables with even 1080P material at those lengths. Can't beat that!


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was under the assumption that HDMI has never been certified to pass multichannel SACD...



HDMI 1.1 can't, but HDMI 1.2 should be able to pass SACD in its native DSD bitstream.


Sanjay


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since NO titles are actually encoded with discrete 7.1 data, other than being future-proof, what's the advantage of the 1.3 spec in this regard?



I don't want to turn this thread into a discussion about HDMI 1.3 in general, but just wanted to talk about HDMI with respect to current D2/50 and future (hypothetical) Anthem upgrades. Having said that, the 1.3 spec will allow the new high-def DVD surround formats to be passed in their native form from the DVD player to a preamp/receiver. The decoding will be done by the preamp/receiver. For more information, see:

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums...ad.php?t=22061 


and:

http://www.twice.com/article/CA6260470.html 


Thanks.


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since NO titles are actually encoded with discrete 7.1 data, other than being future-proof, what's the advantage of the 1.3 spec in this regard?



Even if a soundtrack was 7.1 discrete, it could be decoded/unpacked in the player and sent as 8 channels of linear 96/24 PCM via the Anthem's HDMI 1.1 connection. So, audio-wise, no advantage to HDMI 1.3 spec. Certainly no difference in sound quality.


Sanjay


----------



## yatchaks

My new AVM 50 (warranty replacement) has been on my rack now for a few days. I didn't realize I had as many quirks with the other AVM 50, until playing with this one. I had software issues with the other unit which created quite a few problems.


I had nick e-mail me the latest beta software, and it installed without a problem. A download should be available from the Anthem website by the end of the week.


Is anyone using a Motorola cable box? Currently, I have the box set at 1080i output and 4:3 override set at 480i. Is this the correct setting? I do need to learn more about using the scaler. If anyone has any good links, please share them.


A few problem's I've noticed, I sometimes see a black screen. Shutting the AVM 50 off and turning it back on fixes this. Next... when the AVM 50 scaler out is set at letter/pillarbox, the 4X3 material might be normal size and the next time it may be slightly stretched. The same thing will happen to HD material, sometimes showing as 4x3 material, and another time, full screen. Again, turning off and on fixes the problem. Next...Sometimes when turning the volume up or down, the screen shakes up and down, I'd say around 1/4 of an inch.


I have no doubt the above issues will be taken care of by a software update. HDMI and scaling can be very touchy and this is all new territory for Anthem. I have no problems waiting for the software updates, I look forward to them.


If anyone else has bought an AVM 50, please share your experiences.


----------



## Nathan_R

I have a Motorola box (DCT-3412) and it has been a headache with my AVM-50. Mine is set to 16x9, 1080i and 4x3 override OFF. To be honest, I never watch SD, so I don't even know how it displays through the Anthem's scaler. I've been following the D2 tweaks thread, but I haven't seen any specific reference to the Moto boxes yet in that thread.


I have the same problem you do when I switch sources. A power toggle of the AVM-50 fixes it. However, the Moto box goes back to its defaults of 4x3 and 480i. Grr. I'm pretty sure this is not a problem with the Anthem, but rather the fantastic Motorola architecture we've all come to love.







Other than that, I've had no aspect ratio issues with the combination. The Gennum scaler is set to send out Anamorphic stretch @ 1080p/60 to my display, and I don't have to do any other aspect ratio changes to get a properly formatted picture. I've experienced no picture issues (wobbles/shakes) when changing the volume.


My main issue in my setup is not Anthem related, but if anyone knows how to set a Harmony 880 remote to send short (discrete?) bursts for volume +/- to the Anthem, I'd greatly appreciate any tips. As it stands, my 880 moves the volume in 4.5 to 5 db increments. Until I figure this out, I'm using the Anthem's remote to control everything.


What's in the beta firmware, by the way?


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My main issue in my setup is not Anthem related, but if anyone knows how to set a Harmony 880 remote to send short (discrete?) bursts for volume +/- to the Anthem, I'd greatly appreciate any tips. As it stands, my 880 moves the volume in 4.5 to 5 db increments. Until I figure this out, I'm using the Anthem's remote to control everything.



Using the advanced setup options (More Options for the device) on the Harmony config web pages, you can specify the time delays for the remote. I'd play with these options and set a shorter Inter-Key delay. I suspect the Harmony is sending too long an IR signal which is causing the Anthem volume to move more.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> *Originally posted by Kris Deering* "This is a known issue between the two pieces and Anthem is working on it. It will be fixed very shortly as they are currently working on it."



I am scheduled to pick up my D2 from my dealer this coming Friday. Should I postpone the pickup until this imminent software upgrade is done and can be installed by the dealer, or can I do the upgrade at home without violating the warranty? I ask this because I am _a 4 1/2 hour drive_ from my dealer!


----------



## Nathan_R

Thanks for the tip. I finally found an acceptable delay timing. It's still not perfect, but I'm happier now.


----------



## Gooddoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is just about complete. I am waiting on the next firmware to address some issues that I know are going to be resolved before I publish though.



Kris,


Thanks bud. I know you've heard it many times, but for contributions such as yours it always bears repeating:


Thanks for your very thorough reviews that can always be counted upon by those of us in this community. I am patiently awaiting your review prior to making my processor choice.


May the road rise up to meet you, may the wind be ever at your back. May the sun shine warm upon your face and the rain fall softly on your fields, May your toilet always flush, etc., etc. .......you get the point


----------



## yatchaks




What's in the beta firmware said:


> I'm not sure of what all is included, no notations were included. When I initially talked to Nick about the problem's I had with my first AVM, he mentioned that he could send me beta firmware for my replacment AVM. He didn't want me to install it on the original AVM in fear it may cause it to crash. He also wanted the people at Anthem to see the problems to figure out what may have happened.
> 
> 
> A couple things I do see with the update...Video output (8) now has an OSD line for NTSC and PAL. Under the "picture" setting in the scaler menu, Video ADC replaces s-video. Included is s-video chroma TI level, s-video luma DNR level, video input gain and sampling phase. I wish I understood what these setting do.
> 
> 
> I believe this also fixes the image shifting to the left. I no longer have this problem. However, I downloaded the update to the new AVM before using it, so I don't know If I would have had the problem with this unit anyway. Nick mentioned something to the extent of TV signals not following protocol with HDMI. Anthem had it programmed per specs, but this doesn't jive with the signal sent by the provider (they may not follow HDMI protocol) and this caused a shift issue with the AVM. Please don't quote me on the last few sentences, I'm going from memory and this is the information as I remember and I don't have a very good understanding of the technology so I could be a little off. I don't want to misrepresent nor misquote Nick as he is a wealth of information and very helpful.
> 
> 
> If someone is interested, I could send the file (only good for the AVM 50!). Or if your more comfortable dealing with Anthem, just e-mail Nick at [email protected] He usually responds within hours. Or simply wait until the end of the week, possibly next week and you can download it from Anthem's website.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am scheduled to pick up my D2 from my dealer this coming Friday. Should I postpone the pickup until this imminent software upgrade is done and can be installed by the dealer, or can I do the upgrade at home without violating the warranty? I ask this because I am _a 4 1/2 hour drive_ from my dealer!



You will not void you warranty. Your owners manual explains how to do an update and Anthem offers the update on their website for you to download. I believe the only issue, which Anthem mentions, is when using a USB to serial adapter. If it is not Windows certified, don't use it as this can cause a problem. You will then pay to have it fixed.


Firmware updates is one of the major benefits to owning equipment like this.


So, four more days and it's all yours!


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> *Originally posted by yatchaks* "You will not void your warranty. ........ So, four more days and it's all yours!



That's what I wanted to hear!







(I was pretty sure we could do software updates ourselves, but was starting to get a little spooked.) Look out equipment rack, there's a new "sheriff" coming to town!


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Even if a soundtrack was 7.1 discrete, it could be decoded/unpacked in the player and sent as 8 channels of linear 96/24 PCM via the Anthem's HDMI 1.1 connection. So, audio-wise, no advantage to HDMI 1.3 spec. Certainly no difference in sound quality.
> 
> 
> Sanjay



But can the Anthem processing (such as notch filter, center channel EQ, etc.) be used on HDMI 1.1 PCM?


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But can the Anthem processing (such as notch filter, center channel EQ, etc.) be used on HDMI 1.1 PCM?



Everything (DD, DTS, analogue) gets converted to PCM at some point. There's no reason why the Anthem should treat PCM coming from the HDMI inputs any differently from any other PCM source.


Sanjay


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's what I wanted to hear!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I was pretty sure we could do software updates ourselves, but was starting to get a little spooked.) Look out equipment rack, there's a new "sheriff" coming to town!



Sheriff!!









I like that


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But can the Anthem processing (such as notch filter, center channel EQ, etc.) be used on HDMI 1.1 PCM?



All input signals can have anything applied to them, no worries there. I am currently using the HDMI 1.1 function for HD DVD and DVD Audio and I can apply any processing I want.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All input signals can have anything applied to them, no worries there. I am currently using the HDMI 1.1 function for HD DVD and DVD Audio and I can apply any processing I want.



Wonderful! Thanks.


----------



## DrJRapp

Speaking of upgrades. Has anyone here yet found a USB>serial adapter that works reliably with Anthem FW? I don't have a single computer at home with a serial port on it.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Speaking of upgrades. Has anyone here yet found a USB>serial adapter that works reliably with Anthem FW? I don't have a single computer at home with a serial port on it.



Someone mentioned earlier in this thread that they successfully used the Keyspan usb/serial adapter with the settings editor. They have different models. The following is Microsoft WHQL certified:

http://www.keyspan.com/products/usb/USA19HS/ 

http://shop1.outpost.com/product/389...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG 


I just picked one up. Haven't tried it yet, but plan on using it for my Velodyne SMS-1 (and with the Anthem when I get one).


----------



## Nathan_R

I've exchanged a couple of emails with Nick concerning the Motorola 64xx/34xx cable boxes.


First, he told me to change the Gennum scaler output to Letter/Pillar Box, as opposed to the anamorphic stretch mode I was using. That seems to have fixed my aspect ratio issues, however, the Moto box is still losing its handshake through the AVM-50, as well as resetting itself to 480i.


When I switch inputs on the Anthem, I've also noticed that the 3412 briefly (like for half a second) displays a code to the effect of "du1" on the front panel. I can't be sure of the exact text, as it happens so quickly. Anyway, at this point, I go into the 3412's setup menus, and as I scroll down to the resolution section, I see "YPP Out" and "L" before any of the output (720p, 1080i, etc.) resolutions. I'm going to assume the "YPP Out " and "L" notations refer to the fact my HDCP handshake has been lost and the unit is trying to output video over component (which is no longer used in my setup). Once I change the 3412's menus to 16x9 and 1080i, reboot the cable box, and reboot the Anthem, I have cable again.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is your 79AVi's HDMI indicator light still active on the front panel? Is it possible the Pioneer reverted to component-only output when you changed your equipment setup? I initially forgot to switch the video output to 480i on my 79AVi before connecting the my AVM-50.



I ordered a couple of new hdmi cables and when they get here in a day or two I'll try again. I didn't specifically check the front panel, but all I did was unplug the hdmi from the back of my tv and plug it in the d2 so I wouldn't think the pioneer would default back to component. When I plugged the hdmi cable back into the tv it worked OK.

But thanks, I'll be sure to check the front panel on the pioneer when I set it up with new cables.

I can only pray that it was something that simple.


----------



## Keenan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is a known issue between the two pieces and Anthem is working on it. It will be fixed very shortly as they are currently working on it.



Thanks for that info, I'm having the same problem with a Denon 3806. I'll have to contact Denon and see what they say. Do you know if the issue is with the Oppo or on the recvr/pre-pro side?


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've exchanged a couple of emails with Nick concerning the Motorola 64xx/34xx cable boxes.
> 
> 
> First, he told me to change the Gennum scaler output to Letter/Pillar Box, as opposed to the anamorphic stretch mode I was using. That seems to have fixed my aspect ratio issues, however, the Moto box is still losing its handshake through the AVM-50, as well as resetting itself to 480i.
> 
> 
> When I switch inputs on the Anthem, I've also noticed that the 3412 briefly (like for half a second) displays a code to the effect of "du1" on the front panel. I can't be sure of the exact text, as it happens so quickly. Anyway, at this point, I go into the 3412's setup menus, and as I scroll down to the resolution section, I see "YPP Out" and "L" before any of the output (720p, 1080i, etc.) resolutions. I'm going to assume the "YPP Out " and "L" notations refer to the fact my HDCP handshake has been lost and the unit is trying to output video over component (which is no longer used in my setup). Once I change the 3412's menus to 16x9 and 1080i, reboot the cable box, and reboot the Anthem, I have cable again.




I wonder if you ran a set of component cables from the 3412 to the AVM, and unplugged the HDMI cable, would the 3412 still reset itself? This would eliminate a possible HDMI problem if the same problem occured again.


----------



## Derek N

Nathan,


I get the du1 on my Moto 6416 as well, when the cable box is off and I happen to switch my tv to the HDMI input. Doesn't appear to do anything beyond display that code. Oh, and tell me that my cable box is off. Interesting that the box is off but still outputs (via hdmi) a black screen with white letters telling me the box is off in text when the tv's corresponding input is selected.


Ah, those wonderful Moto boxes. I have Cox cable and had an issue with the boxes resetting themselves constantly and losing all my DVR settings. This then progressed to macroblocking on the HD channels. Well 5 techs and many months later nothing really changed, it just seemed to happen in varying forms. Each time I got a new box and actually in 4 months went through several versions of the 6412 and 6414. They also preceeded to replace all cabling in my house in the process. The final tech finally listened to my thought that if he tested the line at the street it would tell if the problem was my house or the branch line. Well it was the branch line, so all that wiring (free) was just chasing their tail. Supposedly they came out to fix the brank line on two occasions but nothing really changed. The test readings basically read strength, of which I always had plenty and a second reading that I am not sure the name of. I think it has to do with draw and line splitting. Well anyway this second figure never really improved and I got tired of taking days off.


I got fed up and went with my theory that the variations were the box, as the tech had said that soft and esp. the hard hits they send seem to damage the delicate Moto boxes. Also that most boxes seem to be shuffled around to different customers or are refurbs. Well each week I went to the cox counter to exchange my box (a bunch of 6414s) and they each worked to differing degrees, some were better and some didn't pass a HD pic. since the macro blocking was so bad. THEN I got what finally appeared to be a NEW box and a 6416 to boot. Cable has been perfect since. No resets, perfect HD picture. So don't take the box for granted and exchange it if you even think its the problem. Afterall you are renting it so it costs nothing to keep exchanging until you find one that works better.


OH, and I am an AVM30 owner, since this is a bit off topic. ;-)


----------



## Derek N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip. I finally found an acceptable delay timing. It's still not perfect, but I'm happier now.



I have the 880 as well and have noticed this BUT the Anthem remote does the same thing for me. As such I think its the Anthem HEX code that actually has a fast repeat built in. A quick jab yields a small increase and longer push yields a fast increase, on both remotes for me.


The delay setting could certainly modify this behavior to your liking though, with the 880 at least.


----------



## goenkar

I have a motorola DVR also (not sure which model, its a dual tuner) and I believe the display means "dvi", it just lookslike "dui" (at least thats what I think it says).


I leave my dvr box on all the time and I see this flash by when I turn the anthem on.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,



I just pulled the trigger on the AVM 50. I will be mating it with a Denon 3910, Scientific Atlanta 8300HD ( Time Warner - Passport software ) DVR/STB, Sony DVP-CX995VP DVD/SACD 400 disc jukebox, D link DSM 520 Media Bridge all connected via HDMI ( hopefully ).


My display is a Sony VPL-HS51 which is 1280x720 native resolution display. I am sure there will be some challenges with the SA Box although time Warner recently updated the firmware so I will have to see how that works out.


I look forward to receiving this superb machine......woo hoo!


Regards,


----------



## abc999

just got my avm50 here in the Philippines. from my initial setup, everything looks great. Used the HQV disc and it has much better picture quality than my Iscan hd+


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> just got my avm50 here in the Philippines. from my initial setup, everything looks great. Used the HQV disc and it has much better picture quality than my Iscan hd+



Im curious, do you find it better to calibrate video using the scaler adjustments, or do you leave the video adjustments at default?


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> 
> I just pulled the trigger on the AVM 50. I will be mating it with a Denon 3910, Scientific Atlanta 8300HD ( Time Warner - Passport software ) DVR/STB, Sony DVP-CX995VP DVD/SACD 400 disc jukebox, D link DSM 520 Media Bridge all connected via HDMI ( hopefully ).
> 
> 
> My display is a Sony VPL-HS51 which is 1280x720 native resolution display. I am sure there will be some challenges with the SA Box although time Warner recently updated the firmware so I will have to see how that works out.
> 
> 
> I look forward to receiving this superb machine......woo hoo!
> 
> 
> Regards,



I also have the Denon 3910 and SA 8300HD (Time Warner in upstate NY). I'd be interested to know how these 2 components work with the AVM 50. I'm looking into getting the AVM 50 as well.


Thanks.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,




> Quote:
> I also have the Denon 3910 and SA 8300HD (Time Warner in upstate NY). I'd be interested to know how these 2 components work with the AVM 50. I'm looking into getting the AVM 50 as well.




Randman, I will be sure to post my findings once I have things up and running.



Regards,


----------



## Nathan_R

Follow to my DCT-3412 issues. Nick and another Anthen employee told me to set "16x9 on Crop Input and Letterbox/Pillar box on Scale Out." For whatever reason, this has solved my resetting problem. I can now switch back and forth from the 3412 to another source and have the 3412 remember its 16x9 and 1080i settings. Weird.


----------



## ajeruns

Hello everyone. For several months, I've been reading the Anthem AVM 50 AND Statement D2 threads while anticipating the arrival of my AVM 50, MCA 50, and MCA 20 amplifiers. They finally arrived two weeks ago, but I have yet to hook anything up, as I am in the process of building an equipment rack to house them in. I have taken them out of the box and admired them for many an hour. My wife and kids think I'm nuts!


I have plugged both the MCA 50 and MCA 20 into the wall outlet to make sure they turn on. When I did this, I listenened to see if I could hear any noise, but they are both dead silent. When I plugged the AVM 50(version 1.o1) in, I turned the little switch above the power cord on and it was dead silent. When I press the Main button on the front cover to turn the unit on, however, I could hear a low level electronic humming noise. The noise seems to be coming from the right front side of the unit. Looking into the vents, I can see what looks like a torroidal transformer. I believe the sound is coming from this part. I have tried plugging the unit into other outlets in my house, but it's still there. It's a low level sound, which I can hear while I'm approx. 2 feet away from the unit.


Does anyone else's AVM 50 make this noise? Is this normal for this unit? I've read the FAQ section on the Anthem website and ensured that the one dimmer I have in my house was turned off.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello everyone. For several months, I've been reading the Anthem AVM 50 AND Statement D2 threads while anticipating the arrival of my AVM 50, MCA 50, and MCA 20 amplifiers. They finally arrived two weeks ago, but I have yet to hook anything up, as I am in the process of building an equipment rack to house them in. I have taken them out of the box and admired them for many an hour. My wife and kids think I'm nuts!
> 
> 
> I have plugged both the MCA 50 and MCA 20 into the wall outlet to make sure they turn on. When I did this, I listenened to see if I could hear any noise, but they are both dead silent. When I plugged the AVM 50(version 1.o1) in, I turned the little switch above the power cord on and it was dead silent. When I press the Main button on the front cover to turn the unit on, however, I could hear a low level electronic humming noise. The noise seems to be coming from the right front side of the unit. Looking into the vents, I can see what looks like a torroidal transformer. I believe the sound is coming from this part. I have tried plugging the unit into other outlets in my house, but it's still there. It's a low level sound, which I can hear while I'm approx. 2 feet away from the unit.
> 
> 
> Does anyone else's AVM 50 make this noise? Is this normal for this unit? I've read the FAQ section on the Anthem website and ensured that the one dimmer I have in my house was turned off.



I just checked mine and didn't notice any noise. When the AVM 50 triggers the MCA 50 to power up, I hear a very slight hum. Nothing I would have ever noticed unless my ear was pressed up against it.


I have got to hand it to you, I could never muster up that much testosterone and not hook up that gear for two weeks!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RMK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am having troubles getting 4:3 non-anamorphic DVD material to display correctly on the D2. I am using a Denon DVD 5900 via component input into the D2 with component output from the D2. The DVD 5900 is configured for a 16x9 display and interlaced output. Prior to the D2, I would run the 5900 with progressive output and squeeze mode enabled. This gave me a properly scaled 4:3 image centered in a 16:9 display.
> 
> 
> What I am getting on the D2 is a letterboxed image, but the 4:3 content is completely stretched edge to edge on the display. I really want just pillarboxed output. I have talked with Nick at Anthem about this, and he tells me to use 4:3 crop and Letterbox/pillarbox on the scaling menu. This does not give me pillarboxed output.
> 
> 
> The only way that I have found to fix this is to set the DVD 5900 to 4:3 letterboxed. This works, but is not practical for casual browsing through lots of extras on a DVD. Nick has also told me to always leave the player in 16:9 mode.
> 
> 
> Does anyone using the D2 get their 4:3 material to display in the correct aspect ratio while leaving the DVD player in 16:9 format? Thanks for the help.
> 
> 
> Robert



If there was an answer to Robert's Question, I missed it. Pillar boxing non-anamorphic with no aspect ratio changes is a basic capability. I'm hoping it's not left to funky resetting of source players.


I'm pulling the trigger on this given my disappointment in the Dragonfly. My biggest challenge is regrouping inputs/outputs to a 1080p JVC HD2K FP

- JVC30K component (mostly for archiving)

- JVC D5MU DVI (mostly for Playback)

- MediaPC 1080p HDMI

- Symmetry (probably at 720x480)

- Pio DV59AVi HDMI 480i, (but no firewire







)

- Moto Cable HD DVR (I have bad experience on DVI here, so probably Component)

- Samsumg BD (soon I hope)

- Tosh HD-A1 (it's challenging when a HD disc format is a bigger pain than D-VHS)

- Couple Pio LDs (what no firewire OR RF







)

- Zenith DVB318 backup player, to deal with things like pillar boxing

(I guess the HD Leeza & RP82 SDI will be officially retired, even though it's really only turned after power outages).


So I will probably need to keep the Zektor 4x2 component switch but maybe drop the Zektor 5x1 DVI switcher. I have a purelink HDMI switcher between my JVC HD2K and scalers & PC & was planning to run Blu-Ray direct with no scaler.

-



But if Phil likes it, I know I will love it. How you doing?


Appreciate everyone's postings.


Tim


----------



## xrayii

Newb question.....can the gennum scalar do the vertical stretch for CH 2.35:1 setup


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ....But if Phil likes it, I know I will love it. How you doing?
> 
> 
> Appreciate everyone's postings.
> 
> 
> Tim



Hey Tim,


How are you. With your complicated setup, I would not base too much on what I have to say as my situation is quite a bit simpler. The D2 is not without its bugs and in need of fixes. Each situation is going to be different based upon equipment and needs. For me, I am willing to see what Anthem can and is going to do going forward as the D2 has even greater potential than what it is in its current form and to the best of my knowledge it is about the only (depending how you look at it) affordable complete solution available right now.


On the sound side of things, the improvements I am hearing compared to my former Rotel RSP-1098 are very noticable and I am very pleased.


On the video side of things, the overall PQ is noticably better than my former Lumagen VisionPro HDP. The usability factor of the D2 compared to the Lumagen is a completely different story. After as much HDMI issues are solved as possibile and an official firmware update is released, the next firmware update needs to address at a minimum: Per Resolution/Per Input Memories, better Aspect Ratio Controls, more basic test patterns including every other HLine and VLine and making custom timing input available. All signs and indications point to this being done; however, how fast they are implemented is something else.


I am enjoying my D2 and I am going to give it some time to mature on the Video Processing end of things.


----------



## chas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All input signals can have anything applied to them, no worries there. I am currently using the HDMI 1.1 function for HD DVD and DVD Audio and I can apply any processing I want.



Is the post-processing applied to DD+ or just to the DD stream? Can you convert DD+ 5.1 to DD+ 7.1? Thanks.


C.


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is the post-processing applied to DD+ or just to the DD stream? Can you convert DD+ 5.1 to DD+ 7.1? Thanks.
> 
> 
> C.



DD+ is decoded by the HD DVD and output as PCM to the Anthem over HDMI. The Anthem reports it as 6 Channel PCM 96Khz. To that you can add any post processing available: The display will read something like this - Digital 5.1+PLIIx, Digital 5.1+THX Ultra 2 Cinema etc.


As far as I know the only source you can not add post processing to according to the manual is a DTS 24/96 signal.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DD+ is decoded by the HD DVD and output as PCM to the Anthem over HDMI. The Anthem reports it as 6 Channel PCM 96Khz. To that you can add any post processing available: The display will read something like this - Digital 5.1+PLIIx, Digital 5.1+THX Ultra 2 Cinema etc.



Does this mean that you can setup the post processing to "extract" rear-channel information from the L/R surrounds (for those of us who have 7.1 speakers), thereby simulating a surround EX decoding?


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does this mean that you can setup the post processing to "extract" rear-channel information from the L/R surrounds (for those of us who have 7.1 speakers), thereby simulating a surround EX decoding?



Exactly. You can apply any available format in the D2: DD-EX, PLIIx, THX, DTS:NEO etc.


----------



## randman

Just placed an order for a D2 today! Can't wait. Salesman said it will take about 2 weeks... hopefully I get it before the 4th of July weekend!


I plan on using XLR balanced cables with the Anthem (my amps support XLR in). It's hard to tell from the D2's manual whether the XLR connections in the rear of the D2 are male or female. It seems from the pictures that Levesque posted (on the first page of this thread) that the XLR connections are male, so I would need an XLR cable with a female end to connect to the D2. Is this correct?


Also, what sort of XLR cables are Anthem owners using? I believe in good cables, but IMHO, most cables are "diminishing returns" type of items... would prefer to spend


----------



## rsbeck

Excellent XLR cables ---

http://www.avcable.com/Merchant2/mer...ode=XLR_CABLES


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just checked mine and didn't notice any noise. When the AVM 50 triggers the MCA 50 to power up, I hear a very slight hum. Nothing I would have ever noticed unless my ear was pressed up against it.
> 
> 
> I have got to hand it to you, I could never muster up that much testosterone and not hook up that gear for two weeks!



Called my dealer today and explained the humming noise to him. He told me this was not normal and started to tell me it was a ground loop problem. I then explained how I plugged the MCA 50 and MCA 20 into the same outlets and got dead silence. He told me to bring it in so a tech can look at it. I'm taking it back in the morning.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Called my dealer today and explained the humming noise to him. He told me this was not normal and started to tell me it was a ground loop problem. I then explained how I plugged the MCA 50 and MCA 20 into the same outlets and got dead silence. He told me to bring it in so a tech can look at it. I'm taking it back in the morning.




Your situation has worked out well. Having to hook up all your gear to the AVM, make all you adjustments, then having to rip it all apart and possibly wait for a new unit to arrive would have caused a bit of a headache.


----------



## funlvr1965

I use mogami cables with neutrix ends, no worries at all and im using 3 runs (lcr) at 50ft each to my m&k s-150 powered fronts and about 35ft to my powered rears, processor is anthem D-1


----------



## randman

Thanks for the replies. I'll look into those cables. I was also contemplating Blue Jeans cables:
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/...udio/index.htm


----------



## LEVESQUE

Randman.


I'm using the XLR balanced cables from Blue Jeans Cables between my D2, my Anthem P5 and my P2, and also 2 long runs with my 2 subs Paradigm Signature Servo.


Highly recommend!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Tim,
> 
> 
> How are you. With your complicated setup, I would not base too much on what I have to say as my situation is quite a bit simpler. The D2 is not without its bugs and in need of fixes....
> 
> 
> On the video side of things, the overall PQ is noticably better than my former Lumagen VisionPro HDP. The usability factor of the D2 compared to the Lumagen is a completely different story. After as much HDMI issues are solved as possibile and an official firmware update is released, the next firmware update needs to address at a minimum: Per Resolution/Per Input Memories, better Aspect Ratio Controls, more basic test patterns including every other HLine and VLine and making custom timing input available. All signs and indications point to this being done; however, how fast they are implemented is something else.




I appreciate your opinions based on past interactions very much. It's good to go in with eyes open. Is there specific inputs you have given on the aspect ratio controls. Only interested in maintaining aspect but 4:3 pillar & non-anamorphic LBX to 1:1 maintained zoom, and hoping AR controls work on all inputs (HD too) (like the OSD).


Thanks & ordered today










Tim


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randman.
> 
> 
> I'm using the XLR balanced cables from Blue Jeans Cables between my D2, my Anthem P5 and my P2, and also 2 long runs with my 2 subs Paradigm Signature Servo.
> 
> 
> Highly recommend!



Thanks. I plan on getting the Blue Jeans cables. I also searched other forums, and Blue Jeans seems to be highly recommended, and their cost is reasonable.


Just wanted to double check before I place an order for 8 cables.... The XLR outputs in the back of the D2 - are they male?


Thanks,


Randy


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Exactly. You can apply any available format in the D2: DD-EX, PLIIx, THX, DTS:NEO etc.



Thanks.


----------



## rsbeck

Basically, Blue Jeans and AVCables specify the exact parts that go into their cables. After that, you need to know how they construct the cables from these parts. Both companies provide well constructed cables. After that, it is a matter of price. Look at the parts, then the specs, then the prices and make your decision. I have nothing against Blue Jeans -- they make fine cables and since they specify the parts, they are not trying to BS anyone. But, I buy from AVcables because you can get the exact same cables cheaper and they provide excellent service. Either way, you cannot go wrong with either company.


----------



## BillW

Randy, yes they are male. Anthem'a web site lets you download the manual where there is a blow up of the front and rear panels. It's a good idea to read thru it even before you get the D2. It's a lot to absorb!!


----------



## funlvr1965

give hotwired cable a call 877-679-4733, I got my cables from them, they are pro audio specialist and know their stuff when it comes to making cables and prices are excellent, compare them against the others absolutely no complaints from my cables and have had them over two years, word of caution do not go crazy with selecting a cable with noise reduction, if you get a cable with very high noise reduction you will lose some of your high frequency, I think it has something to do with the increased capacitance, standard balanced cable without any of the higher noise reduction was what was recommended for me, the guys at hotwired said if I were using the cables in a professional setting with wires running constantly over amps and near high voltage then thats what I would use since at concerts and such you would not be able to tell the degree of high frequency fall off but in a hometheater setting a standard balanced cable is fine.....its funny when I first called I asked him if a balanced cable could go out 50 ft with no signal loss or degradation, he laughed and said that he uses the cable im using over 250 ft and can go further still, gotta love balanced!!!!


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randy, yes they are male. Anthem'a web site lets you download the manual where there is a blow up of the front and rear panels. It's a good idea to read thru it even before you get the D2. It's a lot to absorb!!



Prior to posting my question, I looked at the figures at the back of the manual, and you couldn't tell whether they were male or female. Aside: I actually read the manual of the AVM 50 a week back. I had ordered the AVM 50 last Saturday, but then decided to switch my order to the D2 yesterday. I later compared the manuals of the AVM 50 and D2 page by page, and they are almost identical.


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I appreciate your opinions based on past interactions very much. It's good to go in with eyes open. Is there specific inputs you have given on the aspect ratio controls. Only interested in maintaining aspect but 4:3 pillar & non-anamorphic LBX to 1:1 maintained zoom, and hoping AR controls work on all inputs (HD too) (like the OSD).
> 
> 
> Thanks & ordered today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tim



Tim,


Glad I can provide any help at all. As far as the aspect ratio controls go, I don't think I am the best person to comment here. All of the things you are asking for have controls in the scaler output menu but there aren't any easy shortcut(s) to changing them, in other words no discrete commands. If you setup an input a certain way, all settings are memorized. If you need to use multiple settings per input it involves manually changing the settings. I have asked Anthem to look into this as soon as they can following solving HDMI issues. They are looking into memory banks, but I do not know to what extent or how long a time frame we are looking at.


I watch very little SDTV and watch almost no 4:3 or non-anamorphic DVD's anymore plus now having enough HD content to watch has really spoiled me.


I'm sorry I can't be more specific or help. Personally, I am really enjoying my D2; however, it is not without bugs and some frustrations. As an overall package I am head and shoulders above where I was with my prior setup of the Rotel RSP-1098 and Lumagen VisionPro HDP. To simplify this, the sound I hear and the image I see are superior in every way to what I had before. If would be lying if I said I didn't miss some things from my old setup, but these would all be items of convenience and not performance.


I am willing to give Anthem and the D2 the next several months to see how things progress and improve. Bugs must be fixed and needed features added. If the D2 remains status quo with little or no changes, bug fixes or improvements, and things are not headed in the right direction, then I will be concerned and probably start to look at alternatives. In the meantime, I will continue to enjoy the D2 and provide feedback to Anthem and hopefully things will move forward.


I look forward to your comments on the D2 and hope it does the job for you.


----------



## Max Spivak

OK! I just ordered the D2 & A5 amp. Hope these two will match well. Speakers are Triad Silver Monitors all around. Welcome me to your club!







(And my credit card is about to get a jolt.)


I'm a bit concerned about bugs with the scaler that people are reporting. I'm hopeful that they will be resolved sooner or later. My primary sources will be DVD & CD. I'm planning on getting the Oppo 970 player fed into JVC HX1U DILA pj. Are people still experiencing problems with it the oppo?


Cheers!

Max


----------



## notanewbie

I am fairly certain that the D2 is not configured very well as a scaler and I dont mean useability. Please continue reading to explain what i mean...


I have been doing a lot of research and looking into different combinations that do and do not work properly when output from the D2. What I have found is that on the D2 specifically, the only resolutions that work "natively" are 480/575/720/1080. Anyone using any other resolution and getting NATIVE RATE to their display device, please respond.


I capitalized NATIVE RATE because there are an infinite number of people/rates and panels that can accept NEAR their rate and still produce an image. However, I am pretty certain that no one using any rates other than the ones listed above are getting native rate. I don't even think 480 is a native rate of any panel but, it is a working rate for every panel.


I do not know of any 1366 or 1365 or 1360 plasma panels, for example that are being fed a signal from the D2 natively and getting an image. You CAN (maybe) send a 1366 panel a 1360 rate or even a 1365 panels a 720 rate and get an image or "close" to native rate but, remember that close is almost as bad as nothing at all because you are still using the internal scaler of the panel to get you from X to native rate.


This is not intended to attack or slam the D2 but, to acertain who is getting a native image and if so, what rates are working and what rates need to be tweaked to get them to work.


I'll go first:


Panasonic 1366x768 does NOT work as a native rate input.


----------



## pciav

Excluding any issues already reported that are unrelated to Native Rate Output, 1360x768p/60 has worked with my NEC Plasma without issue since day one. I have other issues as documented, but luckily this has not been one of them.


Display: NEC 61XM2/S 61" Plasma - 1360 x 768

D2: 1360x768p/60 Sync = Inverted


----------



## ILhometheater

Hi everyone,


I've read AVS Forums for some time, but new to posting. I have a dedicated home theater room in my basement and I'm looking to add an Anthem Pre to my equipment. I've been looking at the AVM-30 with a separated scaler but I'm now interested in the AVM-50.


What's a good price on the AVM-50? What have you guys paid?


Also, any feedback on the performance of the scaler, say in relation to a DVDO iScan VP30?


Thanks a bunch!


-Mike


----------



## notanewbie

PCIAV: What is the actual native resolution of your panel? Is it 1360 or 1365?


Because based on the research I have, that panel is a native 1365 x768.

http://www.extremetech.com/article2/...1617990,00.asp 

http://shopmiracle.stores.yahoo.net/px-61xm2a.html 


If so, then you are NOT sending it native rate but, 5 rows SHORT of native rate. As such, the panel is using its INTERNAL scaler to process what it is missing from the D2.


I have already ascertained that an infinite number of panels and displays can take any number of different resolutions, but I think that the way the D2 is designed with locked timings and standard porch settings, VERY few panels can be fed their native rate via the D2, which is the main reason any of us need or use a scaler to begin with...to bypass all of the crappy internal scaling completely.


So unless I am mistaken, you are not sending your panel native rate and are one more check mark in the list of people unable to get NR to their panel.


Anyone else that IS getting NR? So far its NR-0 Other Rates-2


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ILhometheater* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> I've read AVS Forums for some time, but new to posting. I have a dedicated home theater room in my basement and I'm looking to add an Anthem Pre to my equipment. I've been looking at the AVM-30 with a separated scaler but I'm now interested in the AVM-50.
> 
> 
> What's a good price on the AVM-50? What have you guys paid?
> 
> 
> Also, any feedback on the performance of the scaler, say in relation to a DVDO iScan VP30?
> 
> 
> Thanks a bunch!
> 
> 
> -Mike



Hi mike,

Welcome to the forum. Forum rules don't allow talk of direct pricing. The moderators keep an eye out for this.


That said, depending on your relationship with your dealer, or how flexible they may be, you might get a 10% discount, perhaps up to 15% if you are very lucky. Some people have gotten a little better, usually because of the releationship with the dealer and/or they are purchasing amp/speakers etc.. as well.


As far as I know, the only professional review on the scaler can be read at http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-b.../V%20Processor


----------



## LEVESQUE

Alot of people out there are using 720p digital displays and projectors, and alot of 1080p displays are coming this fall. Probably that the vast majority of displays out there are standard resolutions.


I know my Ruby is working perfectly with my D2 at 1080p/60 with all my sources.







A sight to behold with my Toshiba HD-DVD player.


Notanewbie. Did you do some research before buying the D2? Did you download the instruction manual to check if your native resolution was supported?


I'm just curious. Why go through all that trouble without checking first with the manufacturer directly, since you knew pretty well that you were using a non-standard resolution (I mean not 480p/720p/1080i/p)?


Anthem told me they want to support more non-standard resolutions in the future with upcoming firmware upgrades. With the first firmwares iterations, they wanted to concentrate on and cover the most popular one, and keep the "odd ones" for later.


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notanewbie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> PCIAV: What is the actual native resolution of your panel? Is it 1360 or 1365?
> 
> 
> Because based on the research I have, that panel is a native 1365 x768.



The glass is 1365 x 768, but 1:1 Pixel mapping is achieved at 1360 x 768. NEC themselves defines this in their model info supplement to the manual and readily supplies end users with the official timings needed to achieve NR for their entire product line.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notanewbie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If so, then you are NOT sending it native rate but, 5 rows SHORT of native rate. As such, the panel is using its INTERNAL scaler to process what it is missing from the D2.



Hogwash the internal scaler of the NEC is not engaged when it receives a 1360 x 768 signal and it is not adding anything that is missing from the D2 because nothing is missing, it displays all 1360 x 768 pixels that is being output by the D2 with no additional processing. Three rows on the right and two rows on the left are not lit and unused.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notanewbie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So unless I am mistaken, you are not sending your panel native rate and are one more check mark in the list of people unable to get NR to their panel.
> 
> 
> Anyone else that IS getting NR? So far its NR-0 Other Rates-2



You are mistaken as NEC defines Native Rate for 1:1 display as 1360 x 768 with my particular panel. If you want to disagree, fine by me, not worth arguing about.


I'm really sorry you are having so much trouble. Hopefully Anthem can and will add custom user defined timings ASAP or at least fix the 1366 x 768 timing for use with the Panasonic.


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Alot ...Anthem told me they want to support more non-standard resolutions in the future with upcoming firmware upgrades. With the first firmwares iterations, they wanted to concentrate on and cover the most popular one, and keep the "odd ones" for later.



There is absolutely no reason why Anthem can not or should not enable a user defined timing input. Any external VP worth buying offers this feature and so should Anthem.


----------



## ajeruns

Returned my AVM 50 to the dealer today. They will have a tech look at it. Advised that if it is a minor issue, they will fix it. If not, they will order me a replacement unit.


Yatchaks,


I've read in other threads where you own a Sony 60" SXRD. I also own the same display and am extremely happy with it (this is my second display as the first one had "green blob" issues). How much of an improvement did you see in picture quality using the AVM 50's scaler? Any tips you can provide will be helpful. Also, did you go out and buy a DVD player that outputs 480i thru HDMI? I own a Denon 2900, which does not have HDMI output and I'm thinking of purchasing the Oppo player they frequently talk about on the D2 thread.


----------



## notanewbie

LEV: Not only did I check the online D2 manual to confirm that it had 1366 x 768 as an option but, I also called Nick AND emailed him to "triple" confirm that the rate was supported and output by the D2. In my email Nick went on to reply that he has had no reports of Panny incompatibility with the D2 and "The designers say that the D2 and Panny DVI should work via DVI at least, but if anything needs fixing, we'll get our hands on a Panny plasma to investigate."


There was nothing more I could do other than buy the piece and see for myself. I know it accepts NR because my DVDO VP-30 did it with a great deal of tweaking. As far as my panel being a "non standard" resolution that is incorrect. In fact, 1366 x768 is the single MOST POPULAR resolution for 50-65 inch plasmas from ALL manufacturers.


To state that most people are using 720 is absurd. 720 is old school and higher resolution has existed for several years. Almost all 2006 models of every technology offer much higher resolutions than 720 and the D2 is a 2006 piece of equipment.


As stated, the only people getting correct NR are either sending it a non native rate or one of the standard rates mentioned above. Finally, why bother including 30 different scale and refresh rates when only 4 work?


PCIAV: I will most definitely disagree with your interpretation of native rate. While you ARE correct that you are not missing any information sending it 1360 and you are ALSO correct that the internal scaler is not being used at all in this situation...you are not sending the panel its TRUE NR and your panel is capable of accepting 1365, just not from the D2.


If you had a Lumagen or DVDO would you send it 1365 or still send it 1360 if both worked?


Worst case scenario for you PCIAV is when you one day sell that panel and the sides have irrepairable burn in from having NEVER illuminated 5 rows of pixels. So, unless the next guy plans on using your scaler or sending it 1360 for ever, he/she will see a significant difference in color and contrast on the sides when compared to the center.


I used to have this argument with the Fujitsu owners who made the same claims you do and they are accurate. I just feel that "true" native rate for a panel is it's specified rate and utilizes each and every pixel the screen has to offer.


My reply was always "well, what if you send it 1299 and have 66 lines of non illuminated pixel rows..if the internal scaler is bypassed and its still 1:1..is that native resolution?"


If you say yes, then we can agree to disagree. If you say no then it is an issue of semantics because if you are missing 1 line, 6 lines or 60 lines, you are not getting all you can get out of the panel, creating burn in and NOT getting true NR.


My view on it.


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notanewbie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> PCIAV: I will most definitely disagree with your interpretation of native rate. While you ARE correct that you are not missing any information sending it 1360 and you are ALSO correct that the internal scaler is not being used at all in this situation...you are not sending the panel its TRUE NR and your panel is capable of accepting 1365, just not from the D2.
> 
> 
> If you had a Lumagen or DVDO would you send it 1365 or still send it 1360 if both worked?



Had the Lumagen Visionpro HDP prior to obtaining the D2. It to was output at 1360 x 768. 1365 x768 is not obtainable on any of the NEC or shared Pioneer panels before the XM3/XR3 Series. This is a hardware limitation that has subsequently been updated in later generations. I spent much time trying to get a firmware update from NEC. Ultimately it was going to have to be a hardware update that they would not cover under warranty and it was not worth the $2k asking price. Other than gaining 5 extra rows of pixels, there is nothing to be gained.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notanewbie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Worst case scenario for you PCIAV is when you one day sell that panel and the sides have irrepairable burn in from having NEVER illuminated 5 rows of pixels. So, unless the next guy plans on using your scaler or sending it 1360 for ever, he/she will see a significant difference in color and contrast on the sides when compared to the center.



I have taken measures to deal with this by using the internal inverted and white screens that use the full 1365 x 768 so that the unlit rows wear evenly along with the rest. The panel has about 3500 hours of use on it and there are no ill effects. Panel was calibrated by Cliff Plavin.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notanewbie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I used to have this argument with the Fujitsu owners who made the same claims you do and they are accurate. I just feel that "true" native rate for a panel is it's specified rate and utilizes each and every pixel the screen has to offer.
> 
> 
> My reply was always "well, what if you send it 1299 and have 66 lines of non illuminated pixel rows..if the internal scaler is bypassed and its still 1:1..is that native resolution?"
> 
> 
> If you say yes, then we can agree to disagree. If you say no then it is an issue of semantics because if you are missing 1 line, 6 lines or 60 lines, you are not getting all you can get out of the panel, creating burn in and NOT getting true NR.
> 
> 
> My view on it.



We agree to disagree, no big deal.


----------



## notanewbie

Hey, I still love you man! And I need your help and infinite wisdom so please tell me you still love me too!


PS: Cliff is real good, I use him too!


----------



## Dinger23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notanewbie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey, I still love you man! And I need your help and infinite wisdom so please tell me you still love me too!
> 
> 
> PS: Cliff is real good, I use him too!




what's going on here? Now you love the Anthem cheerleaders?


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notanewbie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey, I still love you man! And I need your help and infinite wisdom so please tell me you still love me too!
> 
> 
> PS: Cliff is real good, I use him too!



No love lost. Feel your pain and anxiety. I know how bad you want it to work right.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notanewbie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LEV: Not only did I check the online D2 manual to confirm that it had 1366 x 768 as an option but, I also called Nick AND emailed him to "triple" confirm that the rate was supported and output by the D2. In my email Nick went on to reply that he has had no reports of Panny incompatibility with the D2 and "The designers say that the D2 and Panny DVI should work via DVI at least, but if anything needs fixing, we'll get our hands on a Panny plasma to investigate."



I was just curious. You did your homeworks then.










But why are we even talking about all those strange non-standard resolutions BTW? We all know that the only thing we all need is true 1080p.










Notanewb. I still don't understand why your set-up is not working, particularly if you're sending the good resolution to your plasma (NR)... How do you know it's not working? Are you getting a picture? Did you use a 1:1 test patterns to check it? Which test pattern? What was the result?


Did you try to talk with the manufacturer of the display? Can it be a problem related to the display and not the scaler?


I'm just trying to help you. But we need some details.


----------



## notanewbie

LEV: I had a DVDO scaler that I sold, partly due to your opinions and Kris Deerings glowing reviews. I don't hold you responsible though










Based on the DVDO, I know that my Panny can accept NR via the DVI card with an HDMI to DVI adapter. I also know that even on the DVDO, the factory default settings for 1366x768 did not produce an image. It required specific changes to front porch, back porch, V size etc.. to get the image to sync up and pop into place.


So, I am sending resolutions to the plasma that are truly standard and that "all" panels should accept like, 480, 720 and in my case 1920x1080. While that sounds impressive, it isnt and I need to run 1366x768 for optimal, pixel to pixel scaling.


No test patterns are needed because the panel isnt getting the resolution I need to then put up test patterns and tests to calibrate.


I know you are trying to help. We are all owners of the same piece and I am certain we want it to be perfect for all of our needs..especially mine


----------



## walker15

now, if only this unit can do room correction as well, then it would fill up every request I have towards a processor.....


----------



## nkb

I received all my gear yesterday. Hooked up the Marantz 9600 and played CD's through the D2.


I hooked up my plasma today.


Initially I was able to get the D2 setup screen displayed. I was also able to display SAT HDTV and DVD inputs. All hookups are HDMI.


While I was watching the basketball game on SAT HDTV, the picture just went blank. Now I have no signals whatsoever from the D2. The D2 also reports no input signal.


The plasma is fine. I can hook up the DVD and SAT to it directly and it displays fine.


What would cause the picture from the D2 to just suddenly go out? I have played with input settings to no avail. I also went back to factory defaults on the D2. Same thing. Nothing.


Am I missing something obvious or is this a D2 equipment/software failure on a new unit?


Any tips, suggestions?


----------



## notanewbie

I am currently in a similar situation with no HDMI output, only component. Call Nick and tell him and make sure you have your local dealers name


----------



## elmac

NR 720P on my PJ works like a charm.

Awaiting New Panasonic DLP PJ with NR of 1080P

That will be cool


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dinger23* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> what's going on here? Now you love the Anthem cheerleaders?



You are calling the wrong guy a cheerleader. Obviously, you have not read all my posts in this thread. I tell it like it is, the bad as well as the good.


----------



## notanewbie

PCIAV is dead right. He is one of the people who always shoots straight, both good and bad and I respect his D2 posts more than anyone elses because of that fact..so should you all.


ELMAC: You wont have an issue with Native Rate because the D2 has no problems with 720 or 1080..so youre good to go! The only thing you need to find out is whether the PJ's internal scaler can be bypassed by being sent 1080 from an external source, but thats not Anthems issue it is a Panasonic issue.


----------



## dsmith901

Is anyone using the AVM50 with a Panasonic plasma, using either DVI or HDMI input? If so I would appreciate any comments on problems, PQ, etc. Thanks.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Returned my AVM 50 to the dealer today. They will have a tech look at it. Advised that if it is a minor issue, they will fix it. If not, they will order me a replacement unit.
> 
> 
> Yatchaks,
> 
> 
> I've read in other threads where you own a Sony 60" SXRD. I also own the same display and am extremely happy with it (this is my second display as the first one had "green blob" issues). How much of an improvement did you see in picture quality using the AVM 50's scaler? Any tips you can provide will be helpful. Also, did you go out and buy a DVD player that outputs 480i thru HDMI? I own a Denon 2900, which does not have HDMI output and I'm thinking of purchasing the Oppo player they frequently talk about on the D2 thread.



I do see an improvement using the scaler, but not as much as I expected. I hooked up component from my Motorola 6412 directly to the tv while having HDMI plugged into the AVM, and flipped video inputs on the tv while both playing and pausing the image. 1080i and 480i both seem to be a little cleaner with less jaggies, 480i of course, shows more of an improvement.


I'm wondering, as nice as this tv is, since the tv upscales everything to 1080p, does this affect the Gennum scaler (1080i out) from operating to its full potential?


One tip you might try on 480i sources, is try 720p out from the scaler since the tv will upcale the image to 1080p, and see if you notice an improvement.


I actually did order an Oppo DVD player and it will arrive today. I'll hook it up tonight and let you know the results.


----------



## Bear5k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm wondering, as nice as this tv is, since the tv upscales everything to 1080p, does this affect the Gennum scaler (1080i out) from operating to its full potential?



Yes, you lose the ability to have the superior deinterlacing of the Gennum chip drive your display. I do not know what Sony uses for HD deinterlacing. It is supposed to do IVTC for film-based sources, but I doubt if it is anything much more sophisticated than a Bob/Weave for video. The Gennum's motion adaptive algorithms should blow away the SXRD's processing with a progressive input.


I may be in the market for one of these in a few months, though the lack of HDMI 1.3, DTS-HD and TrueHD support somewhat puts me off of it. Oh, the appeal of pulling two older components out of the rack and replacing them with one, though!










Later,

Bill


----------



## ajeruns

Thanks for the down to earth review. I think I will hook up the video portion of the Avm 50 to the Sony when I get it back from the dealer.


Question; In the D2 thread Levesque states " You really need to know the signal type you need to output before starting to use the D2. So YCbCr 4:2:2 or 4:4:4, RGB or Extented RGB, the color space of your display (SDTV or HDTV), the ouput resolution of the scaler (and if you know it, you definitely want to output a 1:1 signal matching your diplay native resolution)." Can you tell me what the proper selections are for the Sony SXRD?


----------



## ILhometheater

Anyone know the performance of the Sony VPL-VW100's internal scaler or how it functions? I've already purchased this unit and am currently debating between the AVM 30 and AVM 50. Interested in the AVM 50's scaling output and upconversion of other inputs to 1080p HDMI (which this projector supports). But I'm unsure of the projector's native scaling ability. Anyone have info or know of a thread that discusses this? Again, debating between the AVM 30 and 50.


Thanks in advance!


-Mike


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ILhometheater* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know the performance of the Sony VPL-VW100's internal scaler or how it functions? I've already purchased this unit and am currently debating between the AVM 30 and AVM 50. Interested in the AVM 50's scaling output and upconversion of other inputs to 1080p HDMI (which this projector supports). But I'm unsure of the projector's native scaling ability. Anyone have info or know of a thread that discusses this? Again, debating between the AVM 30 and 50.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> -Mike



Hello Mike

AVM50 will outperform Sony PJ

Check this link out
Anthem D2 and Gennum VXP scaler. Tweak guide


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notanewbie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> PCIAV is dead right. He is one of the people who always shoots straight, both good and bad and I respect his D2 posts more than anyone elses because of that fact..so should you all.
> 
> 
> ELMAC: You wont have an issue with Native Rate because the D2 has no problems with 720 or 1080..so youre good to go! The only thing you need to find out is whether the PJ's internal scaler can be bypassed by being sent 1080 from an external source, but thats not Anthems issue it is a Panasonic issue.



Will do


----------



## Gary Murrell

what the heck is a man supposed to do if there isn't a Anthem dealer with in 100 miles of me??







living in the sticks has it's high's and low's









online anywhere?


Thanks guys


-Gary


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


As with any new product release there will be that window where early adopters deal with bugs and issues that need to be sorted out.


I am interested in hearing from any AVM 50 owners who so far have not had any of the problems reported with their respective units. In other words "how is your AVM 50 performing?"


I hope to have mine by next week.



Thanks in advance.


Regards,


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


As with any new product release there will be that window where early adopters deal with bugs and issues that need to be sorted out.


I am interested in hearing from any D2 owners who so far have not had any of the problems reported with their respective units. In other words "how is your D2 performing?"


I ordered an AVM 50 and hope to have it by next week.



Thanks in advance.


Regards,


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> As with any new product release there will be that window where early adopters deal with bugs and issues that need to be sorted out.
> 
> 
> I am interested in hearing from any D2 owners who so far have not had any of the problems reported with their respective units. In other words "how is your D2 performing?"
> 
> 
> I ordered an AVM 50 and hope to have it by next week.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Regards,



My second unit (first had scaling issues)


No heating issue

No buzzing issue

No HDMI issues

DVD-A works perfect over HDMI (in all formats)

Scaling is priceless from 480i to my native resolution 720P

No problems with HD SA 8300

Hope this helps

A happy Anthem customer now for 2 months


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gary Murrell* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> what the heck is a man supposed to do if there isn't a Anthem dealer with in 100 miles of me??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> living in the sticks has it's high's and low's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> online anywhere?
> 
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> 
> -Gary



Anthem does not have any online dealers and you will have no warranty should you find someone willing to sell you one that way. I was looking at a 5 hour drive until a local Paradigm dealer got the nod to do Anthem sales as well


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My second unit (first had scaling issues)
> 
> 
> No heating issue
> 
> No buzzing issue
> 
> No HDMI issues
> 
> DVD-A works perfect over HDMI (in all formats)
> 
> Scaling is priceless from 480i to my native resolution 720P
> 
> No problems with HD SA 8300
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> A happy Anthem customer now for 2 months




Greetings,


Thanks for the response Elmac. I will also be mating the Anthem with the SA8300 HD. I am glad to hear that you have no issues there.


Regards,


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My second unit (first had scaling issues)
> 
> 
> No heating issue
> 
> No buzzing issue
> 
> No HDMI issues
> 
> DVD-A works perfect over HDMI (in all formats)
> 
> Scaling is priceless from 480i to my native resolution 720P
> 
> No problems with HD SA 8300
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> A happy Anthem customer now for 2 months



That's good news. What firmware does your Anthem D2 have? Do you know what software your 8300HD uses? Is it passport? Do you know what version of firmware it has?


Thanks.


----------



## ajeruns

Talked to the Tech who is looking at my AVM 50 today. He told me that the buzzing/humming noise is coming from the transformer in the power supply section of the unit, which is on the right side. He told me that he could even feel a slight vibration originating from the transformer (I had also noticed this when I placed my hand on top of the unit). He told me that he consulted with Anthem and confirmed that the power supply unit is defective. Anthem will be shipping him a new power supply unit. Should be fixed by next week (I hope).


----------



## Gary Murrell

what the heck is up with Anthem Warranty policy?, according to their site, I can't even buy a 2nd hand AVM-30 or 40 and have warranty, the unit has to be traded into Anthem dealers and re-sold


I can't drive 100 miles to and from, my vehicle is not sufficient right now and with no 2nd hand or internet, that pretty much means no Anthem for me










-Gary


----------



## Johnla




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gary Murrell* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> what the heck is up with Anthem Warranty policy?, according to their site, I can't even buy a 2nd hand AVM-30 or 40 and have warranty, the unit has to be traded into Anthem dealers and re-sold




That's true with a lot of brands, not just Anthem. With many brands the warranty is only valid to the original purchaser and not to anyone else that he may later on sell it to, even though it's still within the time limits of the warranty.


----------



## BillW

I've installed 2 D2's neither with any problems. The first was early in the production run the second about a month later. I liked the sound, video was amazing.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've installed 2 D2's neither with any problems. The first was early in the production run the second about a month later. I liked the sound, video was amazing.




Greetings,


Thanks for the info Bill. It is good to hear.



Regards,


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Talked to the Tech who is looking at my AVM 50 today. He told me that the buzzing/humming noise is coming from the transformer in the power supply section of the unit, which is on the right side. He told me that he could even feel a slight vibration originating from the transformer (I had also noticed this when I placed my hand on top of the unit). He told me that he consulted with Anthem and confirmed that the power supply unit is defective. Anthem will be shipping him a new power supply unit. Should be fixed by next week (I hope).



Greetings,


Good news at least. Post back once things are up and running.


Regards,


----------



## yatchaks

I notice when toggling from 2 channel stereo to Anthem Logic music, my Velodyne DD15 is pumping out quite a bit more bass from Anthem Logic music. Anybody know what this mode is doing other than adding subtle volume to the rear speakers?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ILhometheater* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know the performance of the Sony VPL-VW100's internal scaler or how it functions? I've already purchased this unit and am currently debating between the AVM 30 and AVM 50. Interested in the AVM 50's scaling output and upconversion of other inputs to 1080p HDMI (which this projector supports). But I'm unsure of the projector's native scaling ability. Anyone have info or know of a thread that discusses this? Again, debating between the AVM 30 and 50.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> -Mike



Mike, from my experience with the D2 and Ruby, I saw a noticable improvement with video quality using the D2... the Ruby wasn't bad, but I think the D2, and hence the AVM50, is a step up..


----------



## LEVESQUE

I'm still using the same pre-production D2 since january. 6 months w/o any problems. Working with all my equipment. My rack is cooled with a heat-pump, with cold air blowing directly on my D2. So it's always around room temperature.


Same thing for my Anthem Statement P2 and P5. 2 years w/o any problems. Working flawlessly, just like my D1 was doing.


----------



## pciav

I downloaded and installed the Oppo DV-970HD 0613 Beta Software and can report that both SACD & DVD-A now work properly over HDMI to the D2 as all channels are now passed. SACD input reported by the D2 is 6 Channel 88.2 Khz. DVD-A input reported by the D2 is 6 Channel 96 Khz and the Oppo Audio Menu shows MLP.


As noted in the Oppo release notes, in order to get full resolution from the SACD or DVD-A the video output of the Oppo must be set to 720p or 1080i. I have found it needs to be set to 1080i. A few discs I put in were still only output as two channel PCM at 720p.


It is an inconvenience to switch the output from 480i to 1080i to listen and then back when you are done to watch movies, but not a big deal as it works. Hopefully Oppo will figure out some type of auto switching like they now have for the audio output. The Oppo now will output the "Raw" stream for DD & DTS so the D2 can decode and process and automatically switch to PCM for SACD & DVD-A.


DVD-A sounds as good as I have ever heard in any of my setups. SACD sounds good, but not sure if it sounds as good as a true DSD output SACD player. Without direct comparison it is hard to make that call going by memory. To me is seems to be missing a little something.


All in all, the Oppo DV-970HD is one of the best bargain pieces of equipment I have ever used and probably the best $150 I have spent in a long time...except maybe for the Japanese Kobe Steak dinner we recently enjoyed, no wait, that dinner cost me alot more than $150 , so yes the Oppo is the best $150 I have spent...







. It does everything right. I can not get over how fast and responsive this player is at navigation, setup and disc play plus I haven't noticed a layer change yet. Of course, same as the varying D2 experiences YMMV.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm still using the same pre-production D2 since january. 6 months w/o any problems. Working with all my equipment. My rack is cooled with a heat-pump, with cold air blowing directly on my D2. So it's always around room temperature.
> 
> 
> Same thing for my Anthem Statement P2 and P5. 2 years w/o any problems. Working flawlessly, just like my D1 was doing.



Greetings,


Lev, thanks for the info. My AVM 50 will be on it's way today and I should have it by the middle of next week.



Regards,


----------



## czech622

Long time reader, first time post....Also in Samsung DLP Posts. Just purchased a Samsung HL-S6767 from Costco here in St. Louis today. (First one out the door I was told). The price included the stand as well. I have this unit being provided a 1080p/60 signal from my Anthem D2 - what an absolutely beautiful picture - even on 480i stuff - not bad -The Gennum is something special - Very nice TV/processor combo. Watched a couple of dvds thru a pioneer 79avi - hdmi @ 480i and let the D2 do its thing. Watching the Heat vs Mavs....Frickin awesome....1080P!



________________________

Anthem D2

Pair Odyssey Monoblocks

Sunfire Cinema Grand

Samsung HL-S6767W

Pioneer DV-79Avi

Adire Audio Speakers

Direct TV H10-250


----------



## mlbrand

My D2 finally came in and I picked it up last week. So far I am very pleased with it's performance and operation, great audio and video quality, and no bugs have shown up for me. (However, I am only using component video connections due to having a non-HDMI display, so I guess for now I am immune to HDMI bugs.







)


The audio quality is excellent, probably the cleanest, most detailed sound I have ever heard from any processor. During one of the scenes in "The Last Samurai" when Tom Cruise was stick fighting in the rain, my wife said, "It sounds like it's raining in the whole house!". She was right, it did. Despite the excellent detail, I would call this a "neutral" sounding processor, as I don't think it adds any "color" or "brightness" to the audio at all. I also noticed that the mid-bass seems to have more kick than I have had in other processors.


As for video quality, it looks great, though I am still trying to figure out how to tweak this to my system. I have watched some SD DVD's through my Pioneer DV-79Avi, output at 480i and upconverted to 1080i by the D2, and they have looked very very good, much closer to HD than I expected.


The adjustability and tweakability of this processor is incredible. There are so many things you can set, and they all seem to have a good purpose. Anything I have ever wished a processor could do seems to have been thought of by Anthem.


As you can tell, I am pleased with the performance of my D2 at this point, and am not having any (component connection) problems to report.


Mike


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's good news. What firmware does your Anthem D2 have? Do you know what software your 8300HD uses? Is it passport? Do you know what version of firmware it has?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



D2 running at 1.0

8300 -Don't know


----------



## elmac




pciav said:


> As noted in the Oppo release notes, in order to get full resolution from the SACD or DVD-A the video output of the Oppo must be set to 720p or 1080i. I have found it needs to be set to 1080i. A few discs I put in were still only output as two channel PCM at 720p.QUOTE]
> 
> The same thing goes for pio79AVi, 1080i works like a charm


----------



## laststarfighter




elmac said:


> resolution from the SACD or DVD-A the video output of the Oppo must be set to 720p or 1080i. I have found it needs to be set to 1080i. A few discs I put in were still only output as two channel PCM at 720p.QUOTE]
> 
> 
> really? that sucks, I hope that can be changed via firmware.
> 
> I've been looking at getting the oppo, because of the quality of the output @ 480i and it does dvda and sacd(pcm) over hdmi.
> 
> 
> does anyone know if the oppo is upgradable to hdmi 1.2?


----------



## wmeic

On the subject of HDMI 1.3 you might fiind this article interesting ...from 6/16/06
http://www.twice.com/article/CA6323699.html 


If I read this correctly it appears some of the new audio formats require a decoder in the pre/amp or an ourboard decoder according to the HDMI licensing group. Even if the audio is converted to PCM...


Here is part of the article....I'm just interested in getting this right and not to prove someone else wrong..and I appreciate all the information that has been given to date...can someone help confirm/deny my finding???


Thanks!

_HDMI 1.1 is capable of transporting all HD DVD and Blu-ray audio formats in native form except for losslessly compressed DTS HD Master and Dolby True HD, whose 768kHz frame rates exceed HDMI's 192kHz frame-rate capability, the HDMI licensing organization previously told TWICE._


----------



## laststarfighter

I expect that when the hdmi 1.3 specs are done, that receiver and pre/pros will be in the pipeline, and will be hdmi 1.1, 1.2, and 1.3 compliant.


I'd prefer that all decoding be done in the processer with the player to be just a transport.


and until players and processers are 1.2 and 1.3 compliant, I won't waste my time or money on equipment that will be out of date before they even reach market.


I'm wondering if there is any other interconnects on the horizon that will be capable of handling the uber resolution formats with 1080p...


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wmeic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I read this correctly it appears some of the new audio formats require a decoder in the pre/amp or an ourboard decoder according to the HDMI licensing group. Even if the audio is converted to PCM...



Not if the audio is converted to PCM. The problem is only when transmitting the HD audio codecs in their "native form". The article uses those two words repeatedly.


Sanjay


----------



## wmeic

Thanks sanjay...so this means then that if a Blue ray or HD DVD player has a decoder for Dolby HD or DTS HD to convert it to PCM then the player can send the PCM signal to the D2 via HDMI which will enable the user to hear the new audio formats as they were intended to be heard??? Then the current HDMI cables and connectors are not becoming obsolete for these formats as well?? Is there any loss of quality converting the signal to PCM vs native form?

This seems to be what Levesque was saying...


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wmeic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> so this means then that if a Blue ray or HD DVD player has a decoder for Dolby HD or DTS HD to convert it to PCM then the player can send the PCM signal to the D2 via HDMI which will enable the user to hear the new audio formats as they were intended to be heard???



Absolutely. Soundtracks start off as linear PCM. The only reason they are lossily compressed or losslessly packed is to save space on the disc and/or fit through the narrow bandwidth of digital connections. At some point during playback, the soundtracks have to be decoded/unpacked back to linear PCM. It doesn't matter whether this step occurs in the player or the pre-pro; the decoded results will be the same.


This even holds true for older audio codecs. For example: if you were to decode a DD or DTS soundtrack in the player and send it as 6 channels of PCM to the D2, it would be no different than decoding the soundtrack in the D2 itself. I mean, it's not like there is a special secret version of Dolby Digital decoding reserved only for surround processors but not available for disc players.


> Quote:
> _Then the current HDMI cables and connectors are not becoming obsolete for these formats as well??_



Correct. As long as there are players made with format decoders built-in, you can continue to send the data as PCM in full resolution to the D2. Everything that the D2 does to the signal (bass management, time alignment, surround processing, post-processing, down-mixing, D/A conversion, etc) is done when the signal is in PCM form. The chips that do all those things don't know (or care) whether the PCM signal they received was decoded in the player or the processor.


> Quote:
> _Is there any loss of quality converting the signal to PCM vs native form?_



None. If you have a D2 and a HD-DVD player, there's no reason you shouldn't be connecting them together via current HDMI 1.1 _right now_ rather than waiting for v1.3. There won't be any difference in sound quality once 1.3 arrives.


Sanjay


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,



> Quote:
> None. If you have a D2 and a HD-DVD player, there's no reason you shouldn't be connecting them together via current HDMI 1.1 right now rather than waiting for v1.3. There won't be any difference in sound quality once 1.3 arrives.




Woo Hoo !


----------



## ssumner

Hello,


My family is moving into our first new home and I'm planning on building a new HT system for my family room. This will be a temporary HT system until I finish the dedicated HT system in the basement. I plan on going with a front projection system (Ruby) in the dedicated HT within 2-3 years. So eventually this HT system will be used primarily for watching regular TV, football, etc.


For the past two months I've been reading up on the Avsforum, taking notes and figuring out what equipment I want to go with based on my personal tastes. I've narrowed my choices down to a few pieces of equipment. I'm very interested in the AVM-50 but want to make sure it will mate well with the other equipment I plan on purchasing. I'd love to get some guidance from the AVM-50 folks in this thread.


Before I get into the equipment I plan on purchasing you should understand my room's configuration. I'm placing my HT system in a large family room which is 20x19 with 10 feet high ceilings. The back of the room is open up to the breakfast nook (15x13) and kitchen area (15x13). The flooring through out all three rooms will be solid hardwood. I have wired the house so that no equipment will reside in the family room with exception of display and remote. I can only do a 5.1 configuration because of window placement.


I'm planning on going with the NEC 50XR5 50 inch plasma which supports native 1080p (1365 x 768). I've narrowed my speaker selection down to two choices:


Option 1:

L-C-R - Klipsh R-5800-W (in-wall)

Rear - Klipsh CDT-5800-C (ceiling)

HSU VTF-3 MKII Sub or Nova Earthquake Thor (In-Wall Sub)


Option 2:

L-C-R - Atlantic Tech IWTS-20 (in-wall)

Rear - Atlantic Tech ICTS8.3e (ceiling)

HSU VTF-3 MKII Sub or Nova Earthquake Thor (In-Wall Sub)


Originally, I was looking at the Yamaha RX-V2600 or Denon AVR-2807 to control all video and sound but there are numerous issues related with HDMI and the STB Motorola DCT6412/6414. The other option was to use the DVDO iScan VP30 to get around the HDMI repeater issues but it has issues of its own from what I've read in it's thread. I plan on purchasing an OPPO DVD player that does 480i via HDMI. I'm also looking at going with MovieBeam in the near future also.


Simplicity and upgradeability are two of my biggest criteria's when selecting an AV Receiver. The idea of using just HDMI cables between all my components really appeals to me. I'm also very concerned with upgradeability since the HDMI 1.3 standard just got approved but we won't see equipment using it until mid next year the earliest (I can't wait until then). I get the impression that when HDMI 1.3 becomes mainstream there will be an upgrade available for the AVM-50. Plus, I want to utilize the native 1080p support of the NEC display for all my content. The integration with the high-end video processor (Gennum VXP chip) seems like a much better choice then using a DVDO iScan VP30 and a low to mid range AV Receiver meshed together.


I think the biggest concern I have is with the Motorola DCT6412/6412 working with the AVM-50 via HDMI. I have read about so many problems getting these STB cable boxes to work with almost every HDMI repeaters (AV Receiver). However, from what I've read in this thread there are people that have successfully gotten them to mate well with the AVM-50. That alone makes it worth paying the extra money. But then again I have no idea what these puppies really sell for on the street. I haven't contacted any dealers yet but it sounds like these puppies aren't cheap. ;-)


So does anyone have any comments or suggestions?


Scott


----------



## PaulT_BC

Scott-


am waiting to upgrade my AVM30 to the 50 so emailed Nick reference any problems they may have seen with Motorola 6412 boxes. Here are the mails:


> Are you having owners report similar problems with Motorola PVR's?

> Specifically 6412 units. I plan on going the HDTV route soon and

> upgrading my 30 to the AVM50 functionality when that is available.

>

> Thanks

> Paul


Had some with the 6412 but there are workarounds - note that various

firmware versions are floating around in the boxes:


- on preamp, set Crop Input to 16:9 and Scale Out to Letter/Pillarbox. May

requires the edge crop to be On.


- if the Motorola resets itself to 4:3 Letterbox and 480i, it switches back

to 1080i in a few moments (if on HD channel, only, I believe) as long as the

HDCP display is on.


- problems reduced when the cable box is powered on first and THEN the

preamp. (On/off activity on the preamp causes the cable box display to

flash even if it's off.)


Nick


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ssumner* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> My family is moving into our first new home and I'm planning on building a new HT system for my family room. This will be a temporary HT system until I finish the dedicated HT system in the basement. I plan on going with a front projection system (Ruby) in the dedicated HT within 2-3 years. So eventually this HT system will be used primarily for watching regular TV, football, etc.
> 
> 
> For the past two months I've been reading up on the Avsforum, taking notes and figuring out what equipment I want to go with based on my personal tastes. I've narrowed my choices down to a few pieces of equipment. I'm very interested in the AVM-50 but want to make sure it will mate well with the other equipment I plan on purchasing. I'd love to get some guidance from the AVM-50 folks in this thread.
> 
> 
> Before I get into the equipment I plan on purchasing you should understand my room's configuration. I'm placing my HT system in a large family room which is 20x19 with 10 feet high ceilings. The back of the room is open up to the breakfast nook (15x13) and kitchen area (15x13). The flooring through out all three rooms will be solid hardwood. I have wired the house so that no equipment will reside in the family room with exception of display and remote. I can only do a 5.1 configuration because of window placement.
> 
> 
> I'm planning on going with the NEC 50XR5 50 inch plasma which supports native 1080p (1365 x 768). I've narrowed my speaker selection down to two choices:
> 
> 
> Option 1:
> 
> L-C-R - Klipsh R-5800-W (in-wall)
> 
> Rear - Klipsh CDT-5800-C (ceiling)
> 
> HSU VTF-3 MKII Sub or Nova Earthquake Thor (In-Wall Sub)
> 
> 
> Option 2:
> 
> L-C-R - Atlantic Tech IWTS-20 (in-wall)
> 
> Rear - Atlantic Tech ICTS8.3e (ceiling)
> 
> HSU VTF-3 MKII Sub or Nova Earthquake Thor (In-Wall Sub)
> 
> 
> Originally, I was looking at the Yamaha RX-V2600 or Denon AVR-2807 to control all video and sound but there are numerous issues related with HDMI and the STB Motorola DCT6412/6414. The other option was to use the DVDO iScan VP30 to get around the HDMI repeater issues but it has issues of its own from what I've read in it's thread. I plan on purchasing an OPPO DVD player that does 480i via HDMI. I'm also looking at going with MovieBeam in the near future also.
> 
> 
> Simplicity and upgradeability are two of my biggest criteria's when selecting an AV Receiver. The idea of using just HDMI cables between all my components really appeals to me. I'm also very concerned with upgradeability since the HDMI 1.3 standard just got approved but we won't see equipment using it until mid next year the earliest (I can't wait until then). I get the impression that when HDMI 1.3 becomes mainstream there will be an upgrade available for the AVM-50. Plus, I want to utilize the native 1080p support of the NEC display for all my content. The integration with the high-end video processor (Gennum VXP chip) seems like a much better choice then using a DVDO iScan VP30 and a low to mid range AV Receiver meshed together.
> 
> 
> I think the biggest concern I have is with the Motorola DCT6412/6412 working with the AVM-50 via HDMI. I have read about so many problems getting these STB cable boxes to work with almost every HDMI repeaters (AV Receiver). However, from what I've read in this thread there are people that have successfully gotten them to mate well with the AVM-50. That alone makes it worth paying the extra money. But then again I have no idea what these puppies really sell for on the street. I haven't contacted any dealers yet but it sounds like these puppies aren't cheap. ;-)
> 
> 
> So does anyone have any comments or suggestions?
> 
> 
> Scott



Hi scott,


I too, have the 6412. Once in a while when I'm viewing 4x3 (480i) material and switch to a HD channel, the HD channel will squish to a 4x3 image. I do have the setting as Paul mentioned above. The other issue is when viewing from another source, and then switching back to the 6412, I sometime get a black or green screen. A power toggle from the AVM always fixes either issue.


I'm confident Anthem will fix the issue with the 6412 as this is not only a known issue, it is probably one of the more common pieces owned by many Anthem owners.


I'm also looking forward to the release of the next Tivo, and hope all works well out of the box.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *laststarfighter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I expect that when the hdmi 1.3 specs are done, that receiver and pre/pros will be in the pipeline, and will be hdmi 1.1, 1.2, and 1.3 compliant.
> 
> 
> I'd prefer that all decoding be done in the processer with the player to be just a transport.
> 
> 
> and until players and processers are 1.2 and 1.3 compliant, I won't waste my time or money on equipment that will be out of date before they even reach market.
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if there is any other interconnects on the horizon that will be capable of handling the uber resolution formats with 1080p...




Why do you prefer that it be done in the player.. .what advantages do you see?


I see none, and to me the new audio formats offer the advantage of only having to replace the player over time, not the processors.... Personally, I think HDMI 1.3 offers no advantages over 1.1 as far as audio and Home Theater is concerned.... the new color bit depth will not be applicable to video material for a long time... the current infrastructure and codecs weren't made for it...


It is my understanding with DD+ and THD, that if the discs are authored in the advanced format (and all discs to date have been) that the decoding must be done in the player..... this has been discussed ad naseum in the HD DVD player forums, but HDMI 1.3 will only pass the bitstreams if they were authored in basic format, and that doesn't look like it's going to happen.. some people have suggested otherwise, but offerered no source for that point.


----------



## Johnla




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *laststarfighter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if there is any other interconnects on the horizon that will be capable of handling the uber resolution formats with 1080p...



The cables you can buy and use now can handle it with no problem.


----------



## MC6

I am wondering if someone also has problem with the d2/ toshiba hddvd to sony ruby with hdmi input/output. whenever I turn on the toshiba hddvd, I got a pink tint picture, if I go into setup right away and just exit without change any setting, the picture will be back to normal. I have try all the setting I can think of but nothing works.


Mike


----------



## notanewbie

Does it look anything like this?


----------



## tycoondog2

is this before or after they fixed your video board?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notanewbie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does it look anything like this?


----------



## notanewbie

This occurred on both of the boards I had in the unit. I was able to diagnose it as a power "surge" to the Anthem AFTER it turns on. This occurred every time the triggers switched the amps on. The Anthem would turn on, the picture would appear as normal and then the trigger switched the amp on and THEN the screen turns pink.


I can assure MC6 that if he turns on the anthem and amps FIRST and then the DVD player OR turn on the DVD player then the Anthme and the amps and one of those 2 circumstances should always give you a pink screen and the other should eliminate ever seeing the pink screen.


Please report back MC6 to help diagnose this problem, if yours is the same as mine was.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MC6* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am wondering if someone also has problem with the d2/ toshiba hddvd to sony ruby with hdmi input/output. whenever I turn on the toshiba hddvd, I got a pink tint picture, if I go into setup right away and just exit without change any setting, the picture will be back to normal. I have try all the setting I can think of but nothing works.
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike... I had the problem until I installed the beta software.. V1.00k I think...


I just got the new beta, and the problem is still gone.


----------



## kanefsky




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Absolutely. Soundtracks start off as linear PCM. The only reason they are lossily compressed or losslessly packed is to save space on the disc and/or fit through the narrow bandwidth of digital connections. At some point during playback, the soundtracks have to be decoded/unpacked back to linear PCM. It doesn't matter whether this step occurs in the player or the pre-pro; the decoded results will be the same.



There is additional metadata packed in with the raw PCM data. This data is lost in the process of decoding. Some of the surround settings need to be configured prior to decoding, which means that you have to configure each of your source devices independently if you pass PCM to the pre-pro. You lose the ability to centralize the configuration in the pre-pro and you lose some of the improved decoding capabilities or features that the pre-pro might have.


A concrete example of this is the "night mode" feature on my Integra AVC-7.1 pre-pro. This feature depends on dynamic range metadata in Dolby Digital and doesn't work when processing PCM or DTS.


Here's a document that describes Dolby Digital metadata in great detail:
http://www.dolby.com/assets/pdf/tech...data.Guide.pdf 


--

Steve


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kanefsky* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A concrete example of this is the "night mode" feature on my Integra AVC-7.1 pre-pro. This feature depends on dynamic range metadata in Dolby Digital and doesn't work when processing PCM or DTS.



Understood. But certain features that require metadata to work on some receivers/processors do not require it on others. Some time ago, for example, DTS couldn't readily be dowmixed to 2 channels the way DD could. At that time, my processor could downmix DD, DTS and PCM sources without the downmix coeficients built into the metadata.


I should also make clear that my responses were in regard to sound quality, not features. Hence my post ending with _"There won't be any difference in sound quality once 1.3 arrives."_ But since you bring up features, decoding in the player also has certain advantages with titles where the soundtrack has been mastered in the advance mode (most titles so far). Concrete examples include mixing in of commentary, foreign language tracks, button noises etc. You can't access these features if you transmit the signal natively to your receiver or processor.


It should also be noted that once HDMI 1.3 arrives, users may still not be able transmit most soundtrack natively to the receiver/processor, since that requires they be masteded in the basic mode.


> Quote:
> _Some of the surround settings need to be configured prior to decoding, which means that you have to configure each of your source devices independently if you pass PCM to the pre-pro._



Do you have any examples of soundtracks that require surround settings to be re-configured specifically to play that soundtrack? Or am I misunderstanding what you're saying above?


Sanjay


----------



## kanefsky




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Understood. But certain features that require metadata to work on some receivers/processors do not require it on others. Some time ago, for example, DTS couldn't readily be dowmixed to 2 channels the way DD could. At that time, my processor could downmix DD, DTS and PCM sources without the downmix coeficients built into the metadata.



I'm sure it can't do as good a job of downmixing or other processing without the associated metadata.



> Quote:
> I should also make clear that my responses were in regard to sound quality, not features. Hence my post ending with _"There won't be any difference in sound quality once 1.3 arrives."_



I'm sure the metadata improves the quality of any post-processing that's done by the pre-pro. It's not just for features but it guides how the processing is done. But more importantly, passing the undecoded audio allows you to choose the best decoder instead of being stuck with whatever is in your player. It's the same reason you would want a DVD player with 480i output so you could pick your favorite external scaler instead of being stuck with the scaler in the player.



> Quote:
> But since you bring up features, decoding in the player also has certain advantages with titles where the soundtrack has been mastered in the advance mode (most titles so far). Concrete examples include mixing in of commentary, foreign language tracks, button noises etc. You can't access these features if you transmit the signal natively to your receiver or processor.



True, although you would think they'd design new codecs to allow for that since they're already passing so many channels of sound and doing various kinds of mixing and splitting depending on your speaker setup. Then they could have passed all the unmixed sounds and the external processor could do the mixing. In any case, I'd gladly do without the menu sounds, and from what I understand they're not taking advantage of the mixing with the director's commentary. The commentary includes the film audio just as it does with SD DVD. I'd happily do without that capability.



> Quote:
> It should also be noted that once HDMI 1.3 arrives, users may still not be able transmit most soundtrack natively to the receiver/processor, since that requires they be masteded in the basic mode. Do you have any examples of soundtracks that require surround settings to be re-configured specifically to play that soundtrack? Or am I misunderstanding what you're saying above?



I just mean that I have to configure more-or-less the same settings on my HD-DVD player separately from my SD-DVD player, my Blu-ray player, etc. -- with various different features, limitations, user interfaces, quirks, etc. And I'm wasting much of the capability of my pre-pro. For example, my HD-DVD player does have something similar to the night-mode feature of my pre-pro, but I have to stop the movie to change it and then start the movie over from the beginning again.


--

Steve


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notanewbie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does it look anything like this?



Just checking to make sure the photo is just an example of the screen and not representative of the actual settings you were using as those settings could explain a lot of the problems you were seeing. Data Format should be RGB (RGB = Video Levels, & RGB Extended = PC Levels) and not be YCbCr anything (4:2:2 or 4:4:4). As far as I know the Panasonic DVI Blade only accepts RGB signals and it does not accept 1920 x 1080p. If you are using the HDMI blade, then it would accept a component signal, but again I do not think it would accept 1080p.


Again, if the picture is just for illustration purposes and not representative of the actual settings you are using, just ignore the above...hoping the replacement D2 works out for you.


----------



## MC6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mike... I had the problem until I installed the beta software.. V1.00k I think...
> 
> 
> I just got the new beta, and the problem is still gone.



thanks, I will give that a try.


----------



## MC6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notanewbie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This occurred on both of the boards I had in the unit. I was able to diagnose it as a power "surge" to the Anthem AFTER it turns on. This occurred every time the triggers switched the amps on. The Anthem would turn on, the picture would appear as normal and then the trigger switched the amp on and THEN the screen turns pink.
> 
> 
> I can assure MC6 that if he turns on the anthem and amps FIRST and then the DVD player OR turn on the DVD player then the Anthme and the amps and one of those 2 circumstances should always give you a pink screen and the other should eliminate ever seeing the pink screen.
> 
> 
> Please report back MC6 to help the this problem, if yours is the same as mine was.



Hello


Thanks for the response, and yours is the same as me except I don't get the pick screen anymore when I go into the video output setup like your picture showed. Did you contact Anthem about this?


Mike


----------



## notanewbie

Phil, those werent the settings just a representation of the problem. Actually the bigger problem in that image is the fact that letterbox settings say "yes no" when they should say Black, darkest, dark, lighter etc.


Thanks for caring though


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I received my AVM 50 yesterday and integrated it into my system this morning. The unit is connected to the following:


Denon DVD 3910 connected via HDMI - set at 720p ( passthrough ) DVD Audio playback via HDMI SACD via 6 analog cables. The unit is set to Analog DSP ( None for 5.1 playback ).


Sony DVP-CX995V 400 disc DVD player/SACD player - HDMI 1.0 capable however I was unable to get a picture via HDMI ( this worked using a Gefen HDMI switcher ). I switched to component ( 480i ) and a digital audio cable. I had planned on doing this anyway but was curious to see if the Sony and Anthem would connect via HDMI. I had read where another forum member had similar issues.


Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR/STB connected via HDMI - running Passport Echo software through Time Warner cable. No issues at all. The two connected right away.


D link DSM-520 Media Bridge via HDMI at 480i - No issues at all.


Sony VPL-HS51 front projector - I set the video output to 1280x720/60p - No issues.


I have my Denon set to output Audio via HDMI using Multi ( Normal ) which sends the data via bitstreams. There is another option labled Multi ( LPCM ). Should I set the unit to this output for DVD Audio? I believe with the Normal setting I am only getting the Dolby Digital audio off DVD A discs.


So far the unit is everthing I anticipated.



Regards,


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I received my AVM 50 yesterday and integrated it into my system this morning. The unit is connected to the following:


Denon DVD 3910 connected via HDMI - set at 720p ( passthrough ) DVD Audio playback via HDMI SACD via 6 analog cables. The unit is set to Analog DSP ( None for 5.1 playback ).


Sony DVP-CX995V 400 disc DVD player/SACD player - HDMI 1.0 capable however I was unable to get a picture via HDMI ( this worked using a Gefen HDMI switcher ). I switched to component ( 480i ) and a digital audio cable. I had planned on doing this anyway but was curious to see if the Sony and Anthem would connect via HDMI. I had read where another forum member had similar issues.


Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR/STB connected via HDMI - running Passport Echo software through Time Warner cable. No issues at all. The two connected right away.


D link DSM-520 Media Bridge via HDMI at 480i - No issues at all.


Sony VPL-HS51 front projector - I set the video output to 1280x720/60p - No issues.


I have my Denon set to output Audio via HDMI using Multi ( Normal ) which sends the data via bitstreams. There is another option labled Multi ( LPCM ). Should I set the unit to this output for DVD Audio? I believe with the Normal setting I am only getting the Dolby Digital audio off DVD A discs.


So far the unit is everthing I anticipated.



Regards,


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR/STB connected via HDMI - running Passport Echo software through Time Warner cable. No issues at all. The two connected right away.



Glad things worked out for you placidman. I am still unable to use the SA8300HD via HDMI. Are you using HDMI for audio also? If yes, do you get sound on channels below 100? Do you know what software version your 8300 is running? My system reports Pioneer Passport Echo Software 1.8.112. I do not know if tuning to channel 996 on your system will provide this info like here in NYC or if you need to enter diagnostic mode to check this. If you get a chance and can find this out and report it would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## obie_fl

Compatibility with the 8300 is something that is holding me back on the D2. Phil my cable company started simulcasting the first 100 channels as digital a few month back, I wonder if that would now give sound over HDMI. I take it your first 100 channels are still analog?


The Orlando dealer says they have the 8300 hooked up to the AVM-50 but I'm not convinced they have really checked it out. I just wish I had a local Statement dealer so I could test one in my system for a weekend before plunking down $6K. Tell me again what a B&M dealer network is good for?


----------



## pciav

Tom,


As far as I know the first 100 are simulcast as digital here also. I have no problem using the Optical or Coax Digital Audio output of the 8300. In the Audio settings there is an option to select HDMI so I am not sure what the deal is. There are so many iterations of the 8300 around it is hard to nail down what the problem is for each one.


Using the latest beta software my 8300 use via HDMI is actually worse than it was before. I am still using component out for now. When I get a chance and I clear out my unwatched programs from the HD I may exchange the box and see if that does anything. My 8300's are more than a year old and I think there are new versions of hardware around that may or may not make a difference.


----------



## BillW

Tom you have a PM







.


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kanefsky* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm sure it can't do as good a job of downmixing or other processing without the associated metadata.



Depends on how the metadata has the downmix coeficents set (if at all). For example: most of the time the downmix is done using Dolby Surround encoding, where the stereo surround channels are combined into a single, mono, bandwidth limited surround channel. On my processor, the downmixing keeps the surround channels as stereo and full bandwidth.


> Quote:
> _I'm sure the metadata improves the quality of any post-processing that's done by the pre-pro._



How? Can you give me some examples?


> Quote:
> _passing the undecoded audio allows you to choose the best decoder instead of being stuck with whatever is in your player._



What are the differences in decoders? For example, if you were to compare the Dolby Digital decoding in a Walmart HTiB and Mark Levinson No.40 (to use extreme examples), how would the decoding differ? Would the data flagged for the left front channel be sent to that channel differently?


> Quote:
> _True, although you would think they'd design new codecs to allow for that since they're already passing so many channels of sound and doing various kinds of mixing and splitting depending on your speaker setup._



But that's not what they did. And we have to go by what is, rather than would we wish had been done. However, I do understand their thinking: why send all those streams to the processor when you'll only be listening to a portion of them? Better to live-mix the soundtrack in the player and minimize clogging the pipeline.


> Quote:
> _I just mean that I have to configure more-or-less the same settings on my HD-DVD player separately from my SD-DVD player, my Blu-ray player, etc. -- with various different features, limitations, user interfaces, quirks, etc._



That's strange. I've never had to do that. I can send a DD or DTS soundtrack natively to my processor and the sound quality will be the same as if I sent the same soundtrack as 6 channels of PCM to my processor. As I said before, there isn't any special secret version of Dolby Digital decoding in my processor. It's the same DD decoding you find elsewhere.


Sanjay


----------



## elmac




laststarfighter said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> resolution from the SACD or DVD-A the video output of the Oppo must be set to 720p or 1080i. I have found it needs to be set to 1080i. A few discs I put in were still only output as two channel PCM at 720p.QUOTE]
> 
> 
> really? that sucks, I hope that can be changed via firmware.
> 
> I've been looking at getting the oppo, because of the quality of the output @ 480i and it does dvda and sacd(pcm) over hdmi.
> 
> 
> does anyone know if the oppo is upgradable to hdmi 1.2?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not anthem problem
> 
> This is specific player and HDMI problem, do to minimum spec requirements from HDMI this is optional, and the player MFG have decided not to use this option for lower resolutions. hopefully they can fix this with software upgrade from pio and oppo
Click to expand...


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Glad things worked out for you placidman. I am still unable to use the SA8300HD via HDMI. Are you using HDMI for audio also? If yes, do you get sound on channels below 100? Do you know what software version your 8300 is running? My system reports Pioneer Passport Echo Software 1.8.112. I do not know if tuning to channel 996 on your system will provide this info like here in NYC or if you need to enter diagnostic mode to check this. If you get a chance and can find this out and report it would be appreciated. Thanks.




Greetings,


My 8300Hd is using Passport software version 2.5.051 and it does pass everything via HDMI on all channels. Tuning to channel does provide system info here as well ( I am just 65 miles north west of NYC ).


I hope this helps.


Regards,


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> My 8300Hd is using Passport software version 2.5.051 and it does pass everything via HDMI on all channels. Tuning to channel does provide system info here as well ( I am just 65 miles north west of NYC ).
> 
> 
> I hope this helps.
> 
> 
> Regards,



Thanks Ralph. That is what I suspected. NYC has not received this software update yet with the exception of Staten Island. I am going by memory, but I believe this is the software update that changes the opening splash screen during a cold boot from the Pioneer Logo to the new Aptiv one. Hopefully we will get the update soon and my issues will be solved as this is the only remaining issue I have as far as HDMi operability with the D2. Thanks again for checking. I will update this info with Anthem in my next email with Nick.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Ralph. That is what I suspected. NYC has not received this software update yet with the exception of Staten Island. I am going by memory, but I believe this is the software update that changes the opening splash screen during a cold boot from the Pioneer Logo to the new Aptiv one. Hopefully we will get the update soon and my issues will be solved as this is the only remaining issue I have as far as HDMi operability with the D2. Thanks again for checking. I will update this info with Anthem in my next email with Nick.




Greetings,


No problem Phil. Hopefully this get resolved and you can gain full use of your D2.


Post back when that happens.



Regards,


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...Hopefully this get resolved and you can gain full use of your D2.



I won't be holding my breath for TWC-NYC to do anything. Who knows when and even if we will get this update. From some posts in the TWC NYC thread this update has been delivered to Staten Island only so far. Hopefully we will get the update soon.


I do not feel like I do not have full use of my D2 because of this. The HDMI implemenation in the SA-8300HD is the worst I have come across and has caused problems for a lot of us.


As stated earlier in the thread, I would like the HDMI to work for the convenience of the one cable hookup and the theoretical better performance, but the truth is in a blind test one would be hard pressed to see the difference between component and hdmi, still I want it to work. This one definitely has nothing to do with Anthem.


Good luck with your new toy and keep us posted of not only the good but any problems that arise.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> Denon DVD 3910 connected via HDMI - set at 720p ( passthrough ) DVD Audio playback via HDMI SACD via 6 analog cables. The unit is set to Analog DSP ( None for 5.1 playback ). Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR/STB connected via HDMI - running Passport Echo software through Time Warner cable. No issues at all. The two connected right away.
> 
> 
> I have my Denon set to output Audio via HDMI using Multi ( Normal ) which sends the data via bitstreams. There is another option labled Multi ( LPCM ). Should I set the unit to this output for DVD Audio? I believe with the Normal setting I am only getting the Dolby Digital audio off DVD A discs.
> 
> 
> So far the unit is everthing I anticipated.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Congratulations! I also have a Denon DVD-3910. I'm waiting for my D2. I wonder how 720p out of the Denon's HDMI looks compared to 480i out of its component outputs (just to see how the D2/50's deinterlacing compares). Not sure about your Multi (Normal) vs.l Multi (LPCM) question. I still don't have my D2 yet, so can't test. I got the impression from the Denon manual that with Multi (Normal), the Denon outputs DTS and DD via bitstream and maybe outputs DVD-Audio via PCM. But, can't be sure until I actually get my D2.


Glad to hear that the 8300HD works with no problems. BTW - did you configure the 8300HD to output the native signal or to output a specific resolution? Theoretically, setting it to output native (e.g. output 720p if the broadcast is 720p, which is what ABC & ESPN use, or output 1080i if the broadcast outputs 1080i) would be ideal, so the D2 or AVM 50 would handle the conversion to your monitor's native resolution.... However, outputing the native signal, at least when it is connected directly to my projector, causes my projector to have to resynch a couple of seconds, which makes surfing channels a pain. I wonder how quickly the D2 and 50 take to synch when the 8300HD is set to output the native signal.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Randman, I have the 8300HD set to output 480i/720p/1080i. Those are the 3 resolutions that are natively broadcast from the networks. This way the 8300HD does not use it's internal scaler. Setting the box this way passes the signal on to the Gennum for processing. The time the AVM 50 takes to resync is about the same time as my projector takes ( 1 to 2 seconds ) which is no time problem.


I do have the 3910 connected via component 480i as well and will do a comparison. I tried the Multi LPCM setting and got a lot of snaps and pops. I would like to know how you make out when you try it.


For now I am using Analog DSP for both until I have time for more experimentation.


I will post back as I move along.


Regards,


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


On another note to potential AVM 50 owners who are reading some of the threads regarding issues. My AVM runs dead quiet. It does get warm to the touch, especially on the right top and side ( transformer location ). I would NOT describe it as HOT though.


No scaler related issues at all....



Regards,


----------



## MC6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MC6* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am wondering if someone also has problem with the d2/ toshiba hddvd to sony ruby with hdmi input/output. whenever I turn on the toshiba hddvd, I got a pink tint picture, if I go into setup right away and just exit without change any setting, the picture will be back to normal. I have try all the setting I can think of but nothing works.
> 
> 
> Mike



Problem updates, updated my d2 to v1.03 and problem solved. Nick is the best technical support I have ever seen, two thumbs up.


Mike


----------



## Kainam

Stories like that is why I plan on getting a D2 for myself. My Samsung Blu-ray player still sealed in the box on the other hand....


----------



## notanewbie

That is great news! I installed 1.03 the day it came out, June 16th, but it did not address some of my issues. I think they have 1.04 coming out shortly but, if 1.03 works I say leave it alone and dont upgrade it..be happy!


----------



## randman

How did you get 1.03? I looked at Anthem's web site, and they don't have it online.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How did you get 1.03? I looked at Anthem's web site, and they don't have it online.



1.03 is a beta and, AFAIK, has only been sent to those who have reported any problems to Anthem and thus have been sent the Beta to see if it has resolved any issues.


----------



## pciav

I'm not trying to rain on the parade, but I do not think we are supposed to discuss beta software in the open. I'm glad problems are getting solved, but I think Anthem prefers we report directly to them so they can get an official release out to help everyone.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My satellite STB is using DVI and I also have the green screen if I power it on AFTER the D2. If I power on the STB before the D2, then everything is working fine, and I can switch inputs all I want.



Al


Have you ever found a solution to this problem besides powering up the SAT before the D2? I have a very similar problem but it isn't dependent on which device is turned on first, but which device the D2 is set to at ITs power up. If the D2 is set to SAT then switched to DVD no problem till switched back to SAT. if it is set to DVD then switched to SAT I get the green screen. Power cycling the D2 is what cures. Been thru 1.00n, 1.02 & 1.03 with no improvement.


I'm bringing this here because Nick doesn't respond to my emails on this point.


----------



## notanewbie

Jerry, Nick never responded to my emails either but, he always answers the phone and always listens to the problem when you get him on the phone.


I feel like a tech guy so let me try and help..if you dont mind.


Please tell me if the components in question are set up via HDMI or component. Also, which HDMI input and/or component input are they plugged into. Example: DVD on HDMI1, SAT on component 2 etc.


I "think" that the issue has less to do with the compnents themselves and more to do with the inputs on the board. It seems that the D2's have a chain of command or oreder of preference whereby certain inputs get "ssen" first. Depending on your order things can change.


I had a similar problem as well but, it was caused by a pulse in the signal and/or a pulse in the powering up/down of certain components. It seems this is a serious issue that has so many combinations it might be difficult to cure.


----------



## DrJRapp

My SAT receiver is a DISH 811 which is DVI. I'm using a DVI>HDMI cable.Toshiba XA1 HDDVD is on HDMI2 and SAT on HDMI3. HDMI 1 is reserved for an Oppo 970 which should arrive today. When I use HDMI 1 for the Toshiba XA1 (latest firmware installed) I get HDMI handshaking issues that caused the XA1 to stop with it's prior software. This didn't happen on HDMI2. It doesn't seem to matter which HDMI input I put what device on, the SAT receiver still behaves the same. Also tried repeater on or off with no change. One thing to note: I didn't have this issue with the SAT receiver with the original software, (1.00), but I had other issues with the XA1 that have been "cured" by the upgrades. In this case the "cure" seems to be as bad as the disease.


I do really like the D2, however I've been convinced from the beginning that I may have a bad one, but have been unable to convince Nick of this. I've tried to talk to Nick on the phone, but honestly I don't like the way he talks down to me with a condesending attitude.


----------



## notanewbie

Could the problem with the SAT box be related to the DVI/HDMI conversion???


It also seems that you have found out on your own that different inputs work differently with different components. In your example, HDMI 1 is no good with the Toshiba but, HDMI 2 is fine. How this isnt an Anthem issue is beyond me at this point. This has nothing to do with HDMI standards or protocol if one input works and another doesnt. It has something to do with the Anthem but, it is beyond my scope of technical knowledge.


I have the Oppo and it worked with the D2 intermittently. Sometimes it would shake and other times it wouldnt but, again my board was shot and my unit had multiple issues so, I cannot really apply my issues to other peoples.


Please report back after getting the Oppo in HDMI 1. It will be interesting to see it it will work seamlessly or if HDMI input 1 is the culprit. Or the Sat box or the Toshiba or...


Funny how you mention the way Nick talks "down" to you, I feel the same way! Its like I am beneath him and he is the almighty one! You know what, do what i do and just eat crow, say "uh huh" even if you know what he is saying isn't what you believe and do what you have to do to get the unit up and running right. Thats too funny that you said that.


----------



## DrJRapp

Yeah, somehow Nick forgets we are customers that just spent a lot of money and bought his firms flagship product and we are his reason for being.


I've considered the DVI> HDMI point, however, HDMI is a subset of DVI and the receiver AND cable works perfectly with other HDMI devices. It also worked fine until software changes, as I noted above.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah, somehow Nick forgets we are customers that just spent a lot of money and bought his firms flagship product and we are his reason for being.
> 
> 
> I've considered the DVI> HDMI point, however, HDMI is a subset of DVI and the receiver AND cable works perfectly with other HDMI devices. It also worked fine until software changes, as I noted above.



Did you try to load in your old software


----------



## DrJRapp

That would just bring back other problems.


----------



## FerretHunter

Well, I fixed my problem related to the AVM50 not accepting my computer signal. I went ahead and got the monoprice 5:1 HDMI switcher. I input the computer and AVM50 into the Monoprice, and connect the projector to the Monoprice output. Works like a charm. Too bad the $4700 AVM50 can't do what the $132 switcher can. How difficult can it be to just pass a signal straight through? Oh well, I'm back to being a happy camper.


----------



## rsbeck

Can somebody sum up the issues that have been uncovered and have, to date, remained unsolved?


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FerretHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I fixed my problem related to the AVM50 not accepting my computer signal. I went ahead and got the monoprice 5:1 HDMI switcher. I input the computer and AVM50 into the Monoprice, and connect the projector to the Monoprice output. Works like a charm. Too bad the $4700 AVM50 can't do what the $132 switcher can. How difficult can it be to just pass a signal straight through? Oh well, I'm back to being a happy camper.



I had a problem with my computer (dvi/hdmi) working with my AVM 50 as well. The latest beta software (1.03) solved my problems.


----------



## richkorn

" ... I fixed my problem related to the AVM50 not accepting my computer signal. I went ahead and got the monoprice 5:1 HDMI switcher. I input the computer and AVM50 into the Monoprice, and connect the projector to the Monoprice output. Works like a charm. Too bad the $4700 AVM50 can't do what the $132 switcher can. How difficult can it be to just pass a signal straight through? Oh well, I'm back to being a happy"


How do you have your computer hooked into the D2. I have just added a dual core Apple Mini to my media cabinet and would really appreciate some ideas on what you are using the computer to do before I begin down this road.

I tried to upgrade the firmware on my D2 andmy computer told me it couldn't see the D2. I was using a DB9 Seriual cable. Perhaps the cable is bad. I will try another cable tomorow.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FerretHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I fixed my problem related to the AVM50 not accepting my computer signal. I went ahead and got the monoprice 5:1 HDMI switcher. I input the computer and AVM50 into the Monoprice, and connect the projector to the Monoprice output. Works like a charm. Too bad the $4700 AVM50 can't do what the $132 switcher can. How difficult can it be to just pass a signal straight through? Oh well, I'm back to being a happy camper.



I use a DLINK HDMI switcher too. Helps offload sources that can go direct from sources that need the video processing.


----------



## kanefsky




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FerretHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I fixed my problem related to the AVM50 not accepting my computer signal. I went ahead and got the monoprice 5:1 HDMI switcher. I input the computer and AVM50 into the Monoprice, and connect the projector to the Monoprice output. Works like a charm. Too bad the $4700 AVM50 can't do what the $132 switcher can. How difficult can it be to just pass a signal straight through? Oh well, I'm back to being a happy camper.



I think the difference is that the AVM50 has to decrypt the signal and process the audio, overlay an on-screen display onto the video, etc. The switchbox is just passing the encrypted signal through untouched. But it's not clear to me why the AVM50 can't look just like a display to the source component, and look just like a source component to the display. These problems seem to occur when there's some kind of 3-way handshake between the source component, the display, and the device in the middle.


--

Steve


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richkorn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you have your computer hooked into the D2. I have just added a dual core Apple Mini to my media cabinet and would really appreciate some ideas on what you are using the computer to do before I begin down this road.
> 
> I tried to upgrade the firmware on my D2 andmy computer told me it couldn't see the D2. I was using a DB9 Seriual cable. Perhaps the cable is bad. I will try another cable tomorow.




Rick,


I use an Intel Mac Mini and am running MCE, all works perfectly with the AVM 50.

If you have any specific questions, let me know.


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richkorn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you have your computer hooked into the D2. I have just added a dual core Apple Mini to my media cabinet and would really appreciate some ideas on what you are using the computer to do before I begin down this road.
> 
> I tried to upgrade the firmware on my D2 andmy computer told me it couldn't see the D2. I was using a DB9 Seriual cable. Perhaps the cable is bad. I will try another cable tomorow.



My computer has an ATI All In Wonder 9800 Pro video card with DVI. I use an HDMI cable with an HDMI/DVI adaptor.


I used to use my computer as a DVD player with TheaterTek. However, I now use the Gennum processing with a Pioneer Elite 79Avi for that purpose (by the way, the picture is not a whole lot better than I was getting with my computer. It's closer than you would think. Actually, I'm more happy with the audio improvement of the AVM50 over my old receiver. The video improvement hasn't been very noticeable to me, if at all).


Going forward, I'm only going to use my computer for video games, Windows WMV high def movies, and watching home movies I recorded with my Sony HC1 HDV camcorder (I recorded those to my computer using CapDVHS and watch the mpeg movies using TheaterTek).


Regarding your serial cable problems, is the cable a null-modem cable by any chance? This won't work since pins 2 and 3 are switched. Just try a different cable.


----------



## FerretHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kanefsky* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think the difference is that the AVM50 has to decrypt the signal and process the audio, overlay an on-screen display onto the video, etc. The switchbox is just passing the encrypted signal through untouched. But it's not clear to me why the AVM50 can't look just like a display to the source component, and look just like a source component to the display. These problems seem to occur when there's some kind of 3-way handshake between the source component, the display, and the device in the middle.
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Steve



There should be an option in the AVM50 menu to allow you to specify an HDMI input as just straight pass through. There is a "Bypass" option in the Gennum menu, but it's obviously not a pass through.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FerretHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There should be an option in the AVM50 menu to allow you to specify an HDMI input as just straight pass through. There is a "Bypass" option in the Gennum menu, but it's obviously not a pass through.



Greetings,


Nope there is no such option.



Regards,


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I reached out for Anthem support this morning. I spoke with Kris Deering and he thought that Nick had come up with a fix regarding the Denon 3910 issue with DVD Audio over HDMI.


Sure enough the problem was solved via the latest software which should be released in the near future on the website.


As a bonus it also cleared up an issue I was having with my Sony DVP-CX995V 400 disc mega changer via HDMI. The Sony did not recognize the Anthem via HDMI however after the update the two did the "handshake" no problem.



The update was pretty painless and took about 10 minutes to complete.


Regards,


----------



## Kris Deering

I agree that there should be a mode for passthrough. There is a pass thru for resolutions though, similar to what you get with a "through" mode for a projector. Also, a source device is the same resolution as the output resolution set for the D2, it just passes through.


----------



## randman

Placidman:


Great news! I updated my Denon DVD-3910 with the July 2005 firmware (the similar May 2005 firmware addressed HDMI issues as well). Once I get my D2, I guess one of the first things I should do is upgrade its firmware.


BTW - if you have the Denon DVD-3910's firmware update documentation, there is a table that discusses what is output from its HDMI depending on the source and whether you set its HDMI to MULTI (NORMAL) or MULTI (PCM). Looks like, with MULTI (NORMAL), it outputs Dolby Digital and DTS for DVD Video, and Multi PCM for DVD Audio. If you use MULTI (LPCM), it outputs Multi PCM for DVD Video and DVD Audio.


----------



## randman

Yes, passthrough would be a nice feature, particularly for misbehaved sources!


----------



## tomcat211




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I notice when toggling from 2 channel stereo to Anthem Logic music, my Velodyne DD15 is pumping out quite a bit more bass from Anthem Logic music. Anybody know what this mode is doing other than adding subtle volume to the rear speakers?



Y,

I couldn't give you much more than what the manual says on the subject. I hardly understand what they are trying to say myself. Which mode do you prefer for music? Does one mode sound any better for a particular genre? I find AnthemLogic great for Jazz and acoustic string pieces but it's a toss up with that mode and the Neo 6.1 for everything else.


----------



## Robert Crawford

What is the MSRP of this unit?


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Robert Crawford* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the MSRP of this unit?



MSRP is U.S. $4700


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Placidman:
> 
> 
> Great news! I updated my Denon DVD-3910 with the July 2005 firmware (the similar May 2005 firmware addressed HDMI issues as well). Once I get my D2, I guess one of the first things I should do is upgrade its firmware.
> 
> 
> BTW - if you have the Denon DVD-3910's firmware update documentation, there is a table that discusses what is output from its HDMI depending on the source and whether you set its HDMI to MULTI (NORMAL) or MULTI (PCM). Looks like, with MULTI (NORMAL), it outputs Dolby Digital and DTS for DVD Video, and Multi PCM for DVD Audio. If you use MULTI (LPCM), it outputs Multi PCM for DVD Video and DVD Audio.



Greetings,


Randman, I found that documentation as well. That coupled along with Kris' recommendation prompted my call to Anthem. My initial response was that I may have not had the Denon configured properly. You may want to try the 3910/D2 combo first. The lastest software loaded into your incoming unit may already contain the fix.


Keep us posted.


Regards,


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tomcat211* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Y,
> 
> I couldn't give you much more than what the manual says on the subject. I hardly understand what they are trying to say myself. Which mode do you prefer for music? Does one mode sound any better for a particular genre? I find AnthemLogic great for Jazz and acoustic string pieces but it's a toss up with that mode and the Neo 6.1 for everything else.



Greetings,


Going from 2 channel stereo to AL Music will add digital signal processing which will steer bass information to the subwoofer. This of course is dependent on how you have the unit configured. I prefer AL Music for Jazz and pop both.


I use AL Cinema for 2 channel TV broadcasts and Pro logic IIx gets the nod for 5.1 channel TV sound.


Regards,


----------



## tomcat211

Placid,


I'm about the same as well for my listening modes. Anyone else have any preferences for their sound settings?


Tomcat


----------



## ajeruns

Good News! Got my AVM 50 back from the dealer today. Talked with the tech in person, who confirmed that my power supply was bad (even showed me the one he took out of my unit). Told me that it would not be "dead silent," but much better than it was. Got it home, plugged it in, and its much, much better! Cannot hear anything unless I place my ear to within several inches of the right side of the unit. Cannot feel any vibrations either. I can live with that. Will be connecting my Denon 2900 to the video portion of the AVM 50 tonight to see how it looks.


Question: I've noticed that the unit's display dims slightly after approximately 5-10 seconds. If I touch any button or turn the volume knob it brightens up. The little red and blue lights on the faceplate also do this. Is this normal? Please, someone tell me it is!


----------



## Nathan_R

Yes, it's normal.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question: I've noticed that the unit's display dims slightly after approximately 5-10 seconds. If I touch any button or turn the volume knob it brightens up. The little red and blue lights on the faceplate also do this. Is this normal? Please, someone tell me it is!



Normal. You can adjust the brightness (when it dims) via the setup menu.


----------



## yatchaks

FYI.....Software update 1.04 is now available for download for the AVM 50 from Anthem's website http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...areUpdate.html


----------



## yatchaks

I also just noticed another download for "video settings editor". I hadn't noticed this before. Anyone know what this is for? I'll have to check it out tonight when I get home.


----------



## randman

FYI, v1.04 of the D2 firmware is available online:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


The following is from its readme file:


CHANGE LIST


v1.04:


1. Increased compatibility with HDMI-connected equipment that doesn't follow all of the HDMI spec.


2. Added adjustments for analog video inputs - see pdf file.


Tip: If you are using S-Video inputs and prefer the appearance of the hi-def OSD characters vs the default S-Video ones, you can enable the HD characters with S-Video inputs, although they will appear only when a video signal is present - change first item in menu 11 to HD Only.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also just noticed another download for "video settings editor". I hadn't noticed this before. Anyone know what this is for? I'll have to check it out tonight when I get home.




Greetings,


This is so that the settings made in the video setup menu can be saved on your PC. Nick sent me this program along with the latest software update.



Regards,


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> This is so that the settings made in the video setup menu can be saved on your PC. Nick sent me this program along with the latest software update.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



I though "settings editor" did this? Or is "video settings editor" for the scaler?


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I though "settings editor" did this? Or is "video settings editor" for the scaler?



Greetings,


Settings editor saves everything in the setup menu. Video settings saves everything associated with the video setup menu.



Regards,


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, passthrough would be a nice feature, particularly for misbehaved sources!



Try online video editor, bypass may be something that you are looking for.

You can do all kind of neat things online now.

Cool


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Try online video editor, bypass may be something that you are looking for.
> 
> You can do all kind of neat things online now.
> 
> Cool



But the bypass is only for the video processing, and not for HDMI.


----------



## chas

The 1.0.4 update is no longer on the web site--the 1.0 version is back...


Have there been problems with 1.0.4?


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 1.0.4 update is no longer on the web site--the 1.0 version is back...
> 
> 
> Have there been problems with 1.0.4?



Greetings,


My guess would be that perhaps they found they needed to make an adjustment to it. I suspect it will be back up next week sometime.



Regards,


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 1.0.4 update is no longer on the web site--the 1.0 version is back...
> 
> 
> Have there been problems with 1.0.4?



Yes, Placidman is correct. The problem is when a 1080i input is fed via component connection, and edge cropping is turned on, the picture gets scrambled, requiring a power-down.


1.05 should be available shortly after the Canadian holiday.


This information is from Nick.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 1.0.4 update is no longer on the web site--the 1.0 version is back...
> 
> 
> Have there been problems with 1.0.4?



Yes,

Only if you use component

HDMI inputs are OK


----------



## nkb

Witht the v1.04 upgrade my HDMI inputs and outputs were working.


Today I was working to get the triggers setup to power up my amps. That all worked out.


In the process, the HDMI video out cable fell out of the D2 (not uncommon with HDMI). I simply plugged it back in (I think the unit was on).



Now, I cannot get any picture. I have tried:


a. Removing the HDMI inputs, HDMI output only (see if I can get Setup)

b. Disabling the triggers, this was the one thing I changed.

c. Various sequences of power up/down of D2/components, source selection, etc.


Nothing works. Just get the "green screen".


I even reloaded v1.04 which had cured my HDMI problems.


Again, no change. Always the green screen.


Guess I am stuck again, until Anthem gives a clue of what to try next. Anybody have any suggestions?


Too bad, I thought I was past the HDMI issues.


----------



## randman

nkb - Did you try using another HDMI cable just to be sure?


----------



## notanewbie

I have repeatedly stated that I feel heat is the culprit. Try powering OFF the unit and removing the power cord. Give the unit several hours to cool down. It is overkill as it should be cool much faster than that but, give it a few hours anyway.


Put the cord back in and power it back up with the HDMI cord already plugged in.


Report back


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *notanewbie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Try powering OFF the unit and removing the power cord. Give the unit several hours to cool down. It is overkill as it should be cool much faster than that but, give it a few hours anyway.
> 
> 
> Put the cord back in and power it back up with the HDMI cord already plugged in.
> 
> 
> Report back



I will agree with this,

Also try to use diffrent HDMI input and Cable

Hope this helps you


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


If I had to guess it is possible that you damaged the HDMI output by making connection while the unit was powered up. The owner's manual clearly states that no connections should be made while the unit is turned on.


Hopefully that is not the case and you can get it working.



Regards,


----------



## nkb

Upon close inspection of my HDMI cable (main out) it looked to me like a pin was missing. So I went out and bought a new cable. The old HDMI cable did work fine from the SAT receiver direct to the plasma. But, perhaps the "missing pin" didn't matter to the SAT but did to the D2.


In any event, the new cable didn't help ($70 down the drain). Now, no green screen. But no "certifying HDMI" message. Just black.


Gave up on HDMI for now. Hooked everything back up with component. Lot more cables, but the PQ still looks good. So maybe I don't need HDMI. On the other hand, what the hell did I pay for?


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I just wanted to clarify one post that I made earlier regarding how warm the AVM 50 gets. I stated that it did not run that warm.


I stand corrected. The unit does run warm when both the video/audio processing is running for extended periods ( say two hours or more ).


This should in no way be construed to mean that there is a performance issue related to this. So far my unit has been fine. I point this out because those considering the AVM 50 should ensure that it is placed in a location that provides proper ventilation.



Regards,


----------



## abc999

mine is black too


----------



## bobpaule

Sorry dear people have to intervene, even if it is somewhat out of the context. First i am grinding my teeth for the AVM50 big time. I am waiting for the beta testers to give the final word though.


I notice quite a few talking about cable HD boxes. Just want to tell you that i got rid of my cable HD (5 channels) in favor of the Dish/Voom 23 HD channel lineup and will never look back. I have a 622 DVR unit and it can store 12 HD movies at a time. Awesome entertainment for 28 bucks/mo as i strictly get HD from them. Bought everything on ebay and installed it myself. Just my c2, and mainly because you Anthem people deserve better quality than the pathetic copper cable narrow bandwidth pixelatronics. Of course FIOS availability changes everything.


Sorry, dont mean to hijack the tread, hope this will help you enjoy some quality HD upscaled to 1080p.


----------



## yatchaks

I wanted to give a quick follow up to my Oppo 970HD purchase. If you are on the fence on purchasing this player, place your order, you will love it.


480i run through the AVM 50's scaler is incredible. The 5.1 signal ran through the HDMI cable works great.


I recently subsribed to Widescreen Review, and they sent me a free copy of the HQV benchmark DVD. I ran the various tests from the disc. I have not been able to find any flaws. I'm now going to run the DVD through one of my other DVD players just to see what the flaws actually look like.


----------



## goenkar

Is anyone using Dish DVR with the AVM-50 ? Any issues ?


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bobpaule* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry dear people have to intervene, even if it is somewhat out of the context. First i am grinding my teeth for the AVM50 big time. I am waiting for the beta testers to give the final word though.
> 
> 
> I notice quite a few talking about cable HD boxes. Just want to tell you that i got rid of my cable HD (5 channels) in favor of the Dish/Voom 23 HD channel lineup and will never look back. I have a 622 DVR unit and it can store 12 HD movies at a time. Awesome entertainment for 28 bucks/mo as i strictly get HD from them. Bought everything on ebay and installed it myself. Just my c2, and mainly because you Anthem people deserve better quality than the pathetic copper cable narrow bandwidth pixelatronics. Of course FIOS availability changes everything.
> 
> 
> Sorry, dont mean to hijack the tread, hope this will help you enjoy some quality HD upscaled to 1080p.




Bob,

I currently have Comcast and the buggy 6412. I have been thinking of getting the 622 for the added HD content as well as the much improved HD recording capabilities.


A couple issues keep me from switching. I'm very satisfied with 480i (run through the AVM scaler) as well as the geat HD picture Comcast provides. I also like On Demand. As I understand it, all the Voom HD channels are HD lite. Tivo will soon release their Series 3 for cable. I"m having a hard time switching to Dish based on the above thoughts.


Since you recently made the switch, do you have any thoughts on my hesitation to switch?


Sorry guys, I know we have a seperate forum for Dish, but this could still be good information since most Motorolla boxes also give the Anthem problems. I have grown impatient over time with the Moto, and now owning the AVM, it is even more of a headache.


----------



## Nathan_R

For what it's worth, all my AVM-50 and DCT-3412 problems went away when I followed some suggestions from the Anthem folks. I'm not sure how they fixed my problems, but they did.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wanted to give a quick follow up to my Oppo 970HD purchase. If you are on the fence on purchasing this player, place your order, you will love it.
> 
> 
> 480i run through the AVM 50's scaler is incredible. The 5.1 signal ran through the HDMI cable works great.
> 
> 
> I recently subsribed to Widescreen Review, and they sent me a free copy of the HQV benchmark DVD. I ran the various tests from the disc. I have not been able to find any flaws. I'm now going to run the DVD through one of my other DVD players just to see what the flaws actually look like.



Greetings,


Yatchaks, thanks for sharing. I have been thinking about the move to an inexpensive 480i (HDMI) equipped player. I have a Denon 3910 which I run at 720p through the AVM 50 and out ( unprocessed ) to my Sony HS51a projector. The Denon's scaler is very good and picture quality is as well. The Gennum is a better solution though. I really figured I would wait until a HD disc player with 480i/HDMI became available. However for the Oppo's price it might be worth giving it a shot to see how it compares to the Denon.



Regards,


----------



## LEVESQUE

For those searching for a 480i over HDMI DVD player to use with the D2, the Oppo 970HD is working great with the latest Oppo firmware.


I didn't had alot of time before to play with SD DVDs (since I'm busy listening to HD disks!), but yesterday I was able to look at 3 SD films with the Oppo 970. I'm impressed.


I was also able to try some SACDs finally over HDMI. The Oppo is still a little bit "buggy". When switching tracks with SACDs, I miss a couple of seconds at the beginning. But sound quality is surprinsigly good for a 149$ player. DVD-As are working pretty good also.


Oppo did it again.


----------



## tycoondog2

LEVESQUE


What are your thoughts on the build of the HDMI inputs and outputs. It seems this is the reason why most peoples units are failing. Of course people should be turning the unit off before making connections. I have no problems with any of my current components with the cable falling out.


Do you know the part number for the HDMI receptacle and is it on the HDMI approved connector list


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Upon close inspection of my HDMI cable (main out) it looked to me like a pin was missing. So I went out and bought a new cable. The old HDMI cable did work fine from the SAT receiver direct to the plasma. But, perhaps the "missing pin" didn't matter to the SAT but did to the D2.
> 
> 
> In any event, the new cable didn't help ($70 down the drain). Now, no green screen. But no "certifying HDMI" message. Just black.
> 
> 
> Gave up on HDMI for now. Hooked everything back up with component. Lot more cables, but the PQ still looks good. So maybe I don't need HDMI. On the other hand, what the hell did I pay for?



Do both cables work going direct?


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those searching for a 480i over HDMI DVD player to use with the D2, the Oppo 970HD is working great with the latest Oppo firmware.
> 
> 
> I didn't had alot of time before to play with SD DVDs (since I'm busy listening to HD disks!), but yesterday I was able to look at 3 SD films with the Oppo 970. I'm impressed.
> 
> 
> I was also able to try some SACDs finally over HDMI. The Oppo is still a little bit "buggy". When switching tracks with SACDs, I miss a couple of seconds at the beginning. But sound quality is surprinsigly good for a 149$ player. DVD-As are working pretty good also.
> 
> 
> Oppo did it again.



Greetings,


Levesque, this is good to hear. I am considering a 480i/HDMI DVD solution and the Oppo is a consideration. I am currently running a Denon 3910 at 720p through my AVM 50 ( pass through ) to my Sony HS51a front projector ( 1280x720 ). The Denon does a great job deinterlacing/scaling however I believe the Gennum would be a better option. The Denon is not capable of 480i/HDMI.


I love the Denon's audio reproduction and would keep if for SACD/CD playback. I will probably give the Oppo a shot.


Regards,


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What are your thoughts on the build of the HDMI inputs and outputs. It seems this is the reason why most peoples units are failing. Of course people should be turning the unit off before making connections. I have no problems with any of my current components with the cable falling out.



I'm changing HD and SD players often since I'm using the D2, and moving the HDMI cables alot, and never got into any problems. I'm using a mixture of Ultralink HD Pro HDMI cables (for HD sources) and RAM Electeronics HDMI cables (for SD sources), and I always put something under the cables to support them and avoid putting excessive pressure on the connectors, since I got some problems with my "old" Pioneer 59AVi HDMI connector last year. Since then, I'm really careful with HDMI cables.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you know the part number for the HDMI receptacle and is it on the HDMI approved connector list



I don't know. Nick at Anthem could give us that information probably.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Levesque, this is good to hear. I am considering a 480i/HDMI DVD solution and the Oppo is a consideration. I am currently running a Denon 3910 at 720p through my AVM 50 ( pass through ) to my Sony HS51a front projector ( 1280x720 ). The Denon does a great job deinterlacing/scaling however I believe the Gennum would be a better option. The Denon is not capable of 480i/HDMI.
> 
> 
> I love the Denon's audio reproduction and would keep if for SACD/CD playback. I will probably give the Oppo a shot.
> 
> 
> Regards,



My $0.02

You will be happy with Oppo

Its a great player


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I love the Denon's audio reproduction and would keep if for SACD/CD playback. I will probably give the Oppo a shot.



Since the Oppo is only 149$, I really think it's worth a try.







I was able to try the 3910 before, and I definitely prefer the combo Oppo 970HD at 480i over HDMI to the Gennum for SD disks.


The only problem with the 970 is the Chroma 4:2:0 ICP bug that is still there, but the AVM50/D2 filters are doing a great job masking those chromatic aberrations. I was able to compare the D2 filters with the CUE filters of the DVDO VP30, and they were both doing a great job masking that problem.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Elmac/Levesque, thanks for your input.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm changing HD and SD players often since I'm using the D2, and moving the HDMI cables alot, and never got into any problems. I'm using a mixture of Ultralink HD Pro HDMI cables (for HD sources) and RAM Electeronics HDMI cables (for SD sources), and I always put something under the cables to support them and avoid putting excessive pressure on the connectors, since I got some problems with my "old" Pioneer 59AVi HDMI connector last year. Since then, I'm really careful with HDMI cables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know. Nick at Anthem could give us that information probably.



I haven't had any problems with the Anthem's HDMI ports. So far, so good. I have the Blue Jeans HDMI cables, which are good cables, but they are quite thick and not very flexible. My equipment is in a built-in rack, so I don't have access to the back of the rack. Thus, changing cables entails pulling out and later pushing back in my equipment. I figured that given the posts in this thread, I'd play it extra safe, so I ordered Next Generation's "Mini Copperhead Stress Relief Cable":

http://www.nextgenerationhomeproducts.com/1184331.html 


I ordered it directly from Next Generation by calling them up on the phone (they didn't seem to have an online web-ordering mechanism). The cables are also available from:

http://www.summitsource.com/next-gen...le-p-6148.html 


They're actually cheaper in this site, but they charge a ton for overnight delivery.


I can't vouch for how well the cables work, since I haven't gotten them yet (they're suppossed to arrive later today).


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do both cables work going direct?



Yes, both cables (even the one that appears to be missing a pin), old and new, work when hooked directly from SAT receiver to the Fujitsu plasma.


Conclusion is that the D2 jack is damaged/faulty and they are sending a replacement (no charge).


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Levesque, this is good to hear. I am considering a 480i/HDMI DVD solution and the Oppo is a consideration. I am currently running a Denon 3910 at 720p through my AVM 50 ( pass through ) to my Sony HS51a front projector ( 1280x720 ). The Denon does a great job deinterlacing/scaling however I believe the Gennum would be a better option. The Denon is not capable of 480i/HDMI.
> 
> 
> I love the Denon's audio reproduction and would keep if for SACD/CD playback. I will probably give the Oppo a shot.
> 
> 
> Regards,



I know it is a lot more expensive, but the Marantz DV9600 that I have also puts out 480i. It also does a great job for CD's, SACD's and DVD-A's. Because of my HDMI problems I haven't yet been able to yet fully assess the video through the D2, however. Once you go to component which I have to do for now, one runs into DVD copy protection issues that disallow scaling.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry guys, I know we have a seperate forum for Dish, but this could still be good information since most Motorolla boxes also give the Anthem problems. I have grown impatient over time with the Moto, and now owning the AVM, it is even more of a headache.



At the risk of continuing off topic, I would not change content sources for easier compatibility. I used to really like Dish, had DirecTV too & Voom. Voom Monsters is the only channel I would watch in that package, but I switched to a 6412 to get locals and Max HD and now about a new channel every couple months.


MOST importantly I got screwed by Dish in the faulty 942 DVR trade down to the new model WITHOUT firewire. With the 6412 I archive a great deal of content ONLY for personal use. Not an option with Dish, so archiving + more premium channels makes me stay with cable. And mine works great on component connection 1080i -> 1080p on the Anthem. Very nice.


Back to our regularly scheduled Anthem discussion










I LOVE this preamp!!!!!! I got rid of need for component switcher but still have a DVI switcher on one of the Anthem HDMI ports. I also have an 1080p HDMI switcher right before the projector to switch between the anthem and PC connection both at full bandwidth.


Tim


----------



## DrJRapp

Another vote for the Oppo @480i thru the D2. I also find the results with the Toshiba XA1 outputting 1080i to the D2 to be very close, however that may be due to the limitations of the 720p PJ (Optoma HD72) that I am using.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know it is a lot more expensive, but the Marantz DV9600 that I have also puts out 480i. It also does a great job for CD's, SACD's and DVD-A's. Because of my HDMI problems I haven't yet been able to yet fully assess the video through the D2, however. Once you go to component which I have to do for now, one runs into DVD copy protection issues that disallow scaling.



Greetings,


nkb, thanks for the response. I considered the Marantz a while ago but in all honestly I can't justify the cost at this point. In reality I am looking for a decent 480i/HDMI equipped player to get me by until there are more HD disc options. I am hoping to see a universal player however if not I will make a decision one way, the other or both.


I have the Denon 3910 which I am really happy with other than the fact it won't do 480i/HDMI. It's 720p output to my Sony HS51a front projector is really quite decent. I just believe that the scaling/deinterlacing in the Gennum is better.



Regards,


----------



## Nathan_R

Maybe I just didn't see this covered in the manual, but I think the AVM-50 does PAL->NTSC conversion. On a whim, I popped in my R2 PAL copy of "Spaced" on my Pioneer DV-79AVi. The Pioneer has been modded to be region-free, but it doesn't do PAL->NTSC conversion-- it only outputs native PAL or NTSC. Lo and behold, the Anthem processed the signal and correctly displayed the image on my display.


I must admit-- I'm a bit shocked this worked.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe I just didn't see this covered in the manual, but I think the AVM-50 does PAL->NTSC conversion. On a whim, I popped in my R2 PAL copy of "Spaced" on my Pioneer DV-79AVi. The Pioneer has been modded to be region-free, but it doesn't do PAL->NTSC conversion-- it only outputs native PAL or NTSC. Lo and behold, the Anthem processed the signal and correctly displayed the image on my display.
> 
> 
> I must admit-- I'm a bit shocked this worked.



I'm surprised as well. I thought the PAL setting was simply for the on screen display.


Good find.


----------



## rudolpht

Anthemites,


I have a question on Live settings editor. I have never had a successful load or get. I'm at 9600 baud so it will take longer, but after 10 minutes I give up. I'm taking live editor literally so I have unit on & sources input.


Any tips?


Tim


----------



## rudolpht

Note: restoring factory settings then reloading user (or installer settings) appears to also reset the video board. (Yay!!!)


----------



## yatchaks

Could resetting the video board help with an HDMI issue? If not, what does this do?


----------



## video_bit_bucket

So as a D1 owner (very happy I might add) lets fast forward a couple of years. With a native 1080P display and a HD-DVD outputting at 1080P what would the D2 upgrade do for me? Only thing I can figure is that for SD-DVD the up convert would be better. But in two years if everything is being released in 1080P would I care?


It seems that people are getting two things from the D2. Fewer cables, better way to get to 1080P. Neither trivial, but am I missing something else?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Could resetting the video board help with an HDMI issue? If not, what does this do?



I basically was trying to just set the red error and detail, and to go pillarbox on 4:3 sources. After a bad "LOAD" on live video settings all I got was black screen. It was nerve racking for a while. I could see the OSV but just black (or dark grey) on every video source like it wasn't being passed out.


The good news was the reset brought me back to being able to watch video, but I wasn't able to watch on any channel which sounds different from your situation. Just restoring user or installer settings by themselves did not restore the functionality.


If you have a dead screen on all sources (hopefully not) I would try it. If you have recent user or installer settings stored, it will bring you back to the same functionality.


Basically I did both steps from the front panel.

Restore factory settings.

Restore save user settings


and I was back in business, so I assume it reinitializes the video board or at a minimum resets the settings for the video board during the factory settings step.


Tim


----------



## rudolpht

If hope HD-DVD will be around in two years, but what it does now for me is properly deinterlace adaptively 1080i HD-DVD for a 1080p display. Same for 1080i cable. It assumably passes through already 1080p Blu-ray, which looks stunning incidentally. So having every source scaled and deinterlaced to a target native resolution, for me, is the value proposition (which is why I went the AVM-50 route with identical video processing).

Tim


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It seems that people are getting two things from the D2. Fewer cables, better way to get to 1080P. Neither trivial, but am I missing something else?



I think you are forgetting a big one and the primary reason I'm upgrading. The ability to process high resolution audio without going through needless D/A-A/D conversions. I have a relatively large DVD-A/SACD collection and have bought in to DVD-HD none of these work over S/PDIF in high rez.


----------



## whitewolf1

Does the AVM50 have the ability to process high resolution audio or is that why the D2 has upsampling and DTS 96?


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whitewolf1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does the AVM50 have the ability to process high resolution audio or is that why the D2 has upsampling and DTS 96?



The AVM 50 like the D2 can accept high rez. audio up to 8 channels over HDMI. The D2 has dual processers which upsample incoming signals up to 192khz. It also includes DTS 96/24 processing which to me is something that I have not personally had any need for.


The AVM 50 was a better fit for me and I have no complaints.



> Quote:
> If hope HD-DVD will be around in two years, but what it does now for me is properly deinterlace adaptively 1080i HD-DVD for a 1080p display. Same for 1080i cable. It assumably passes through already 1080p Blu-ray, which looks stunning incidentally. So having every source scaled and deinterlaced to a target native resolution, for me, is the value proposition (which is why I went the AVM-50 route with identical video processing).



One of my reasons as well...



Regards,


----------



## funlvr1965

now that the l.3 hdmi spec has been released what will become of the D2? since 1.3 cannot be implemented into the D2 with a firmware upgrade what is anthems solutions to this? will the present D2 owners share the same fate as the current D1 owners which is to wait for anthem to provide a solution where the units are sent back in to have the hardware upgraded? a fate I should mention that D1 owners are still suffering through, and yes I am a current D1 owner however It seems that Anthem does not have a timetable for D1 owners to send their units in for a D2 upgrade so I put in an order for a lumagen HQV, this is going to prove to be very interesting now, D1->D2 upgrade not available, D2-> HDMI 1.3 = New box? or 6 month old D2 now old news and becomes what the D1 is to the D2, reminding everyone that Anthem said that they would not be releasing a D3 or model change for quite sometime,,,,,, am I the only one who is pondering this? now im glad that I didnt go chasing upgrades im happy with my " basic" D1 and will wait for the fallout


----------



## obie_fl

I've talked to a couple of insiders and most feel that HDMI 1.3 is 9 to 18 months away from implementation. The big Japanese CE companies may have something sooner but I suspect 1.3 won't be widespread for at least another year. The real question here is what do you find lacking in 1.1? HDMI 1.1 does what I want today I have no desire to wait another year for 1.3. I guess the question I would pose is why spend the money on the Lumagen which is 1.1 and can't do audio?


Upgrades always take time and Anthem has been good to their owners in the past. Why not just sell or trade your D1 and get a new D2 if you are not willing to wait? I currently own an external scaler but my motivation to move to the D2 is for the HDMI audio support and being able to consolidate into one box.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well I'm only 24 hours into playing with this new beastie, but I think it's time to transcribe some notes.


My new D2 was shipped with V1.00 software even though it just came off the manufacturing line. I have not upgraded the software yet with any Beta software.


Display is a Fujitsu P50 plasma (30 series) driven by a DVI input at 1360x768 (studio RGB). This is the nearest-to-native rate recommended by Fujitsu.


Sources for now are:

1) Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD player, connected HDMI at 480i, plus 6 channel analog audio. All audio goes over the HDMI except for the exotic audio disc formats which have to use the 6 channel analog connection.


2) Motorola 3412 HD/DVR cable box from Comcast, connected via HDMI and sending 1080i for HD and 480i for SD. Audio goes over HDMI.


3) Polk XRt12 XM Radio receiver with optical cable for audio, and a component video output converted to S-video and plugged into a D2 S-video input.


Calibration software is Avia Pro.


-------------------------------------------------------------------


Setup was really quite easy given the complexity/flexibility of the D2. I've done only the basic time alignement and level setting for the speakers at this point. Bass adjustment will follow later. But even without refining the bass, I'd have to say this unit sounds just fine compared to my prior Lexicon MC-1.


All audio processing assignments are still at D2 defaults.


--------------------------------------------------------------------


My setup exhibits the well known, D2, HDMI connection problems -- i.e., Ghastly Green screen and Shocking Pink screen. These are triggered by power up sequences, and also, occassionally, simply by changing channels on the Comcast box. I'm not too alarmed at this since it is obvious Anthem is working on the fix, and I'll just wait for V1.05 or greater software to finally get released.


[Shocking Pink screen will also come up during initial setup since the D2 doesn't default to RGB output over HDMI even though it sees the display as a DVI device. This is, of course, fixed by setting Video Output to RGB.]


But for those who are trying to battle this by adjusting power-on sequences or swapping HDMI cables between sockets, I think you are unlikely to make this problem go away on your own before the new software comes out.


The best workaround I've found when GG/SP intrudes has already been reported earlier in this thread. Go into Setup/Video Output and select another output resolution your display can handle. 720x480p is a good bet. Hit Select, and then confirm you really want to change that resolution. This will force the D2 to re-establish it's HDMI connections and should bring up a "proper" blue screen with Setup menu text. You don't have to exit the Setup menu, but can just immediately switch back to your normal output resolution. This will force yet another handshake and things should be back to "normal".


Annoying yes, but not that nasty so long as you don't have to explain the process to a wife, etc.


What makes it more annoying is that my Fujitsu thinks it is seeing a new source device after I do this -- one that it doesn't remember -- so I have to tell it to reload my display calibration settings. Sigh....


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------


The HDMI 1360x768 output to the display was grossly shifted to the right and a bit down. Fortunately the Fujitsu has enough Positioning range that I could get the image centered.


It looks like I've got pixel-to-pixel match except for the 3 columns on the left and 2 on the right which are unused (since this Fujitsu can not accept the glass's full matrix count as an input), and also, for some bizare reason, I seem to have lost the bottom line which is cropped. That is, it appears the Fujitsu is actually seeing something like 1360x767 or perhaps 1360-766.


I suspect this last is a D2 bug. I notice that when the D2 is doing On Screen character overlay on top of live video, that any time the character overlay changes, the video briefly pops up one line -- briefly showing an extra Ghastly Green line at the bottom -- and an instant later drops back down to its normal positioning.


Because of this, I've disabled the On Screen version of the Front Panel text. Thus I only see this when doing video adjustments via the overlay menu reached by holding down the "7" button.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


My Comcast box is also new to me since I just moved to a building where I can not use my prior DirecTV equipment. So this next issue my not be a D2 issue but rather a Comcast HD/DVR issue.


When I change channels on the Comcast box, there is a significant delay before the D2 starts playing audio AFTER the new channel's video comes on screen. The delay is probably a couple seconds -- i.e., about the same as an HDMI handshake delay. But again, the audio is delayed even AFTER the picture is locked in.


And this even happens switching between SD channels where no new HDMI handshake is required.


Is anybody else seeing this? Is it likely a D2 issue or a Motorola 3412 Comcast HD/DVR issue?


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


However the thing that's most annoying me right now is that the D2 appears to be doing something very nasty at the near black end of the gray scale.


First, understand that neither my DVD player nor plasma exhibits "black float". That is, once you have set a certain black level, the visibility of near black details does not change according to the average screen brightness. Avia Pro has a test sequence of moving, near-black bars on the left half plus a variable gray panel on the right half. CRT tvs and such with "black float" will alter the visibility of the moving black bars according to how bright the rest of the image is -- think of it as a variable Brightness setting. With my DVD player connected HDMI to DVI into my plasma there is no such "black float".


But when connected through the D2 there is! And I haven't been able to find any way to eliminate it. As the average image brightness increases, near black details are crushed into black (i.e., the moving bars become invisible even if you stand close to the screen so the eye isn't disturbed by the brighter image on the other half of the screen).


And what's worse, the D2 seems to have added some truly nasty noise in the near blacks. This is most visible by bringing up Avia Pro's gray windows at various, low IRE levels. With my current settings, the IRE 10 gray window is really nasty for example.


And I'm seeing this noise reflected in movies I play.


I haven't seen these two gray scale problems reported elsewhere in this thread. Is anybody else seeing this? Any suggestions?


NOTE 1: These gray scale problems also appear if I have the 59avi output HDMI 480p instead of 480i.


NOTE 2: I've tried calibrating with the D2 and 59avi at default settings and making all changes via the display's controls and also with the 59avi and display at default settings and making all changes via the D2's controls.


NOTE 3: I believe I'm seeing the same noise in HDMI 1080i scenes from the Comcast HD/DVR box.


NOTE 4: I've tried both 59avi default settings for HDMI 480i -- which are known to clip blacks below 16 and whites above 235 -- and also Carl Sundstrom's variant settings which pass the full range of Blacker than Black and Peak White data, but require a reduction in color saturation setting since the math triggered by them briefly passes through Extended RGB color space.

--Bob


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've talked to a couple of insiders and most feel that HDMI 1.3 is 9 to 18 months away from implementation. The big Japanese CE companies may have something sooner but I suspect 1.3 won't be widespread for at least another year. The real question here is what do you find lacking in 1.1? HDMI 1.1 does what I want today I have no desire to wait another year for 1.3. I guess the question I would pose is why spend the money on the Lumagen which is 1.1 and can't do audio?
> 
> 
> Upgrades always take time and Anthem has been good to their owners in the past. Why not just sell or trade your D1 and get a new D2 if you are not willing to wait? I currently own an external scaler but my motivation to move to the D2 is for the HDMI audio support and being able to consolidate into one box.



thats all good and well but the reason but can you pass lossless audio through hdmi currently with the D2? currently im using coax and will continue to do so with once the lumagen arrives and take care of any lipsync issues due to external processing with D1 audio delay feature, if one wishes to pass lossless audio through all channels in the future (hd players only pass 2 channel at the moment same with encoded hd movies) then seems to me like 1.3 will do that, are you telling me that you can theoretically pass hidef audio over hdmi through ALL channels now? if so then I stand corrected and see no need for 1.3


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> thats all good and well but the reason but can you pass lossless audio through hdmi currently with the D2? currently im using coax and will continue to do so with once the lumagen arrives and take care of any lipsync issues due to external processing with D1 audio delay feature, if one wishes to pass lossless audio through all channels in the future (hd players only pass 2 channel at the moment same with encoded hd movies) then seems to me like 1.3 will do that, are you telling me that you can theoretically pass hidef audio over hdmi through ALL channels now? if so then I stand corrected and see no need for 1.3



My Oppo will pass through SACD and DVD-A no problem to D-2.

1.1 HDMI only should work with DVD-A, but it works also with SACD

So I'm very happy with 1.1


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> are you telling me that you can theoretically pass hidef audio over hdmi through ALL channels now? if so then I stand corrected and see no need for 1.3



Not only can you do so theoretically but in practice also. My Samsung BDP 1000 passes lossless HIDEF pcm directly to the D2 over HDMI where I apply some PLIIx. My Toshiba decodes DD+ and converts it to PCM where it is passed to the D2 via HDMI. Both these scenarios avoid the limitations of s/pdif and analog connections. The only radical change that 1.3 will bring to the table will be the ability to pass encoded hidef audio to a receiver/processor that has onboard decoding capabilities. Till then we will have to rely on the decoding capabilities of the players, which is not such a bad thing since it is easier to swap out a player when superior decoding chips arrive then to upgrade a processor.


It took nearly three years to make HDMI1.1 work, I expect at least 1.5 to 2 years before we see 1.3. I'm sure Anthem is already at work designing the boards that will have to be changed out in the D2 to upgrade to HDMI 1.3.


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My Oppo will pass through SACD and DVD-A no problem to D-2.
> 
> 1.1 HDMI only should work with DVD-A, but it works also with SACD



Just a quick clarification:


HDMI 1.1 cannot pass SACD in it's native state; you need HDMI 1.2 or higher to pass 1-bit signals like DSD (the digital audio format used by SACD). Your Oppo player is converting DSD to PCM (at 88.2kHz/24-bit resolution) before outputing it via HDMI.


However, I doubt the conversion is hurting the sound quality; DSD was originally intended as an archival format, designed from the begining to be converted to PCM for distibution.


Sanjay


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> thats all good and well but the reason but can you pass lossless audio through hdmi currently with the D2? currently im using coax and will continue to do so with once the lumagen arrives and take care of any lipsync issues due to external processing with D1 audio delay feature, if one wishes to pass lossless audio through all channels in the future (hd players only pass 2 channel at the moment same with encoded hd movies) then seems to me like 1.3 will do that, are you telling me that you can theoretically pass hidef audio over hdmi through ALL channels now? if so then I stand corrected and see no need for 1.3



I see Jerry beat me to it but yes you can push lossless audio through 1.1. You just have to decode it in the player first which HD DVD does. Hopefully Toshiba will soon be able to do 5.1 lossless decoding instead of just two channel. HDMI 1.1 can also do the LPCM coming off of current Blu-Ray releases and the MLP off of DVD-As. As Sanjay points out SACD needs to be converted to LPCM in the player under HDMI 1.1, which is what the new Oppo 970 does. You will also be missing the full benefits of DD+ staying with S/PDIF.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is, of course, fixed by setting Video Output to RGB.]
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Well this one stumped the dummy (me) for a few hours of swearing as it was counter intuitive based on sources. But it works! Great observations.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm sure Anthem is already at work designing the boards that will have to be changed out in the D2 to upgrade to HDMI 1.3.



The question remains will it be still called a D2 v2 or will it be a D3. I'll wager on the D2 v2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The continuing saga....


Upon more careful reading of the manual (i.e., I finally read it all the way through -- grin!), I discovered that the D2's Sync = Normal/Inverted setting for HDMI or DVI connections doesn't just make the video appear or fail to appear, but is also the solution if you get an image that's grossly offset from where it is supposed to be!


I switched the D2's HDMI-to-DVI connection to my Fujitsu plasma from Normal to Inverted sync and the image positioning promptly returned to where it was supposed to be instead of being offset by about 1/3 of the screen width.


However, I'm still not lighting up the 3 and 2 pixel wide columns on either side (definitely due to the Fujitsu's limitations) and what turns out to be the bottom TWO lines of cropped pixels as well according to the Avia Pro test image. Not yet sure who's at fault for that last one.


When it gets dark enough to do proper calibration, I'll check if the sync change also fixes the noisey gray scale problems I reported.


-------------------------------------------------------------


The delay in hearing the next channel's audio remains when switching channels on my Comcast/Motorola 3412 HD/DVR cable box. I discovered a couple promising things to change to try to speed up the process, but none of them solved the problem:


1) Changed Setup/Source Settings "Mute" to "Min" -- minimum mute time delay when the digital audio stream changes. Other settings provide more delay to eliminate "pops" when the source coding changes.


2) Turned off Setup/Source Settings "Auto Dig" for this source -- which means the D2 doesn't waste time looking at the analog audio input when the digital signal (over the HDMI cable) drops out during the channel change.


Both changes should have helped, and may have helped a bit, but there's still too much delay for the new channel's audio to commence AFTER the new channel picture has locked in.


I ask again: Is anyone else seeing this with their cable box or satellite box? I.e., is it likely a D2 issue? Or yet another problem with this truly benighted Motorola cable box?


----------------------------------------------------------------------


The menus hidden under the "7" key are full of surprises!


I discovered that Video Source Adjustment / Scale Output "Letter/Pillar Box" works automatically with the Comcast HD/DVR cable box. HDTV automatically becomes full width (anamorphic) and SDTV is pillar boxed.


You can choose between several shades of gray for the pillar boxes generated by the D2 when viewing such 4:3 SDTV content, but if you select other than black you will likely see a small band of black or dark gray between the pillar box and what appears to be the image. This is actually the image cropping done by either the source station or Comcast. One trick here is to select Video Source Adjustment / Crop Input "Edges On", and select a suitable width. The D2 will then do it's own crop on top of the already cropped portion of the image, BUT using the D2's pillar box color!


----------------------------------------------------------------


Unfortunately "Letter/Pillar Box" does NOT seem to work automatically with the Pioneer Elite DV-59avi. It works, just not automatically.


When sending HDMI 480i (or 480p) from the 59avi it is fundamentally important that you do NOT have the 59avi generate it's own pillar box bars, since it will use up some of the 720 pixels on each line to do that -- reducing horizontal resolution for what's left in the middle -- i.e., the pixels that have to carry the movie image. Instead you want the 59avi to send a full 720x480i (or 480p) -- which makes the image SEEM TO BE stretched from 4:3, until it gets adjusted elsewhere in the video chain.


If you set the D2 to "Anamorphic", it will do NO adjustment to that 720x480 data and the resulting image will indeed look stretched to fill a 16:9 frame. It's not stretched, it's just that the display interprets each pixel as "wider". Instead, if you set the D2 to "Letter/Pillar box" it will add the necessary pillar box bars itself to restore the proper 4:3 aspect ratio. BUT (and this is the important bit) IT DOES THAT AFTER SCALING UP THE IMAGE! Which means it has plenty of extra pixels on each line to waste as pillar box pixels will still preserving enough pixels in the middle of each line to represent the original 720 pixel horizontal resolution of the original DVD movie data.


Which is all fine and dandy except that the D2 doesn't automatically detect whether the movie being played is encoded in a 16:9 frame or a 4:3 frame. So you have to MANUALLY change the D2 to "Letter/Pillar Box" when playing older movies or DVDs of TV shows to get this benefit. Again, DON'T let the DVD player do this for you itself (at low resolution), even though it can do it automatically, lest you offend the gods of horizontal resolution.


----------------------------------------------------------------------


I must say I like the D2's manual. The hints and tips scattered through it were obviously done by someone who has had to put up with loads of questions from confused customers.

--Bob


----------



## notanewbie

Bob regarding your audio issue with the cable box, are you using HDMI for video and audio? If so try running a seperate audio cable to the D2 and bypass the audio over HDMI. That will make the audio sync up more closely with the video.


If you ARE running a seprate audio cable already and still getting delays when swithcing channels, try changing the type of cable from coax to toslink or vise versa and see if one or the other reduces the audio delay. Get back to me/us on the result.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The continuing saga....
> 
> 
> The menus hidden under the "7" key are full of surprises!
> 
> 
> --Bob




Bob,


Keep playing please!!!!


We have similar equipment (59AVi, 6412 Comcast) and I am really taking advantage of your surprises. This one is a a great one in that I couldn't get with live video settings not working.


I actually went back and reprogrammed my 850 & 950 remotes because it appears the source I used only programmed 1-6










I don't mind the manual change to non-anamorphic and being able to zoom for SciFi (about the only SD channek I watch) for their letterboxed 4:3 to 16:9 losing bars.


Thanks man,

Tim





Thanks man!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

notanewbie,

I am running audio over HDMI from the Comcast box.


I suspect the problem is with the Comcast box, which would be no surprise given its other problems.


I'll put the separate audio cabling experiment on the list. So many possible ways to cable things, so little time....


---------------------------


It would still be useful to know if other people are experiencing a similar delay with this same style Comcast box or other cable or satellite boxes.


Again the delay in question is the time for audio to start AFTER the video image has locked in after a channel change.


---------------------------


However I note that, for example, Lexicon's MC-12 manual warns of a significant delay each time there is a change of surround sound processing format due to the need to load in all the software for each format -- rationalized by referring to all the extra special processsing the MC-12 has to do compare to their earlier processors.


I suppose it's possible that the D2 has a similar problem. It has to inhale a bunch of software before it can play the new audio, even if the new surround processing format happens to be identical to that used by the prior Comcast channel....


What's clear is that somebody needs to spend more money on human factors engineering. Have all the DVD layer change complaints taught them nothing?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm one of the "lucky" ones who managed to download the V1.04 software from the Anthem Statement web site before they retracted it.


From this thread, it appears that the only known issue with that retracted "upgrade" is for people using Component video at 1080i.


Since I've got all my critical video connections running over HDMI and DVI can anyone think of any reason why I SHOULDN'T foist this orphaned V1.04 software on my unsuspecting, new D2?

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht

Bob,

I'm using 1.04. The only side ewffect I have is Live Video not working, but now I know about the hold down 7 and just super reprogrammed my 850 & 950 with macros to take advantage of it. I use component for the comcast (at 1080i & 480p for SD) and don't have the sound issues you have. I've given up on HDMI & the moto boxes.

Tim


----------



## sipester




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a quick clarification:
> 
> 
> HDMI 1.1 cannot pass SACD in it's native state; you need HDMI 1.2 or higher to pass 1-bit signals like DSD (the digital audio format used by SACD). Your Oppo player is converting DSD to PCM (at 88.2kHz/24-bit resolution) before outputing it via HDMI.
> 
> 
> However, I doubt the conversion is hurting the sound quality; DSD was originally intended as an archival format, designed from the begining to be converted to PCM for distibution.
> 
> 
> Sanjay




So let me get this straight. It appears that one of the best ways to get the best picture from the DVD format is the Oppo 970 using 480i over HDMI and it is similar to upscaling DVD players that cost thousands? Plus, for DVD-A and SACD, the Oppo can send the signal digitally to the D2 which can process the signal digitally.


So given the capabilities of the D2 (Gennum scaler and HDMI 1.1 for hi-res audio), it appears you would end up with better picture and sound than you would with the $5,000 Lexicon RT-20? Usually there is synergy with similarly priced products but in this case, a $150 product paired with the D2 seems to be able to give you similar or better results than a $5,000 player.


Am I missing something with this analysis?


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sipester* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So let me get this straight. It appears that one of the best ways to get the best picture from the DVD format is the Oppo 970 using 480i over HDMI and it is similar to upscaling DVD players that cost thousands? Plus, for DVD-A and SACD, the Oppo can send the signal digitally to the D2 which can process the signal digitally.
> 
> 
> So given the capabilities of the D2 (Gennum scaler and HDMI 1.1 for hi-res audio), it appears you would end up with better picture and sound than you would with the $5,000 Lexicon RT-20? Usually there is synergy with similarly priced products but in this case, a $150 product paired with the D2 seems to be able to give you similar or better results than a $5,000 player.
> 
> 
> Am I missing something with this analysis?



No, you are right on

SACD its getting converted to PCM by Oppo and send over HDMI (what a bonus)

It seems to sound beter than from my pio 79AVi, which can't transport it over HDMI (it drove me nuts having all those extra cables connected from pio to D2









Picture Quality on 720P projector looks the same from pio and Oppo over HDMI

Hope this helps.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm one of the "lucky" ones who managed to download the V1.04 software from the Anthem Statement web site before they retracted it.
> 
> 
> From this thread, it appears that the only known issue with that retracted "upgrade" is for people using Component video at 1080i.
> 
> 
> Since I've got all my critical video connections running over HDMI and DVI can anyone think of any reason why I SHOULDN'T foist this orphaned V1.04 software on my unsuspecting, new D2?
> 
> --Bob



Don't do anything else with 1.04

New version should be out this coming week


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sipester* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So let me get this straight. It appears that one of the best ways to get the best picture from the DVD format is the Oppo 970 using 480i over HDMI and it is similar to upscaling DVD players that cost thousands?



Yes, unless you can find a player with better deinterlacing and upscaling than the D2.


> Quote:
> _Plus, for DVD-A and SACD, the Oppo can send the signal digitally to the D2 which can process the signal digitally._



Yes, and once the data is in the D2, it's just another digital signal and you can do anything you want to it (bass management, time alignment, surround processing, etc).


> Quote:
> _So given the capabilities of the D2 (Gennum scaler and HDMI 1.1 for hi-res audio), it appears you would end up with better picture and sound than you would with the $5,000 Lexicon RT-20?_



Even without the D2 in the chain, I'd still get the Oppo over the RT-20. DVD players and video deinterlacing/scaling are not Lexicon's areas of expertise.


> Quote:
> _Usually there is synergy with similarly priced products but in this case, a $150 product paired with the D2 seems to be able to give you similar or better results than a $5,000 player._



Synergy shmynergy. All you're looking to do is transmit digital video and audio data to your D2, and the Oppo will do that just fine.


> Quote:
> _Am I missing something with this analysis?_



Not that I can see. For the small investment, it's worth an in-home trial.


Sanjay


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,




> Quote:
> It would still be useful to know if other people are experiencing a similar delay with this same style Comcast box or other cable or satellite boxes.




Bob, I have the same issue with my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR/STB and the AVM 50.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More saga....


elmac, thanks for the ETA update on the newer software. I'll wait for it.


placidman and rudolpht, thanks for reporting your audio delay or lack thereof. I wonder what the difference is here? It can't just be an HDMI thing since placidman would not be using HDMI audio to an AVM50. rudolpht, I'm assuming you are running digital audio to handle DD 5.1 for HDTV programs, right? So it's not just a digital audio connection thing either. I'll have to find some time to experiment.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------


I recalibrated video last night. The Sync change to "Inverted" did not eliminate either the floating blacks or the nasty, low-gray-scale noise.


So far what I've found best is to go with the flow on the floating blacks rather than trying to fight it when setting blacks and whites.


That means you optimize black levels for mid level average screen brightness (i.i.e.., you want to see the full range of black details in normally lit scenes), while optimizing white levels so as to avoid white crush at high average screen brightness. The side effect is that blacks are set a bit too high at low screen brightness, which means Blacker than Black data floats up into visibility for very low light scenes. This mirrors what would normally be done with a CRT style monitor, where floating blacks are the norm. In addition you will, technically, lose some black details in brightly lit scenes (i.e.., low grays near Black "float down" into one uniform Black, becoming progressively less visible as scene brightness increases), but since the eye loses sensitivity watching such scenes anyway, this is no big loss.


But do be sure to iterate between Brightness and Contrast settings to find a combo that preserves peak white data at least in mid bright scenes, and ideally in bright scenes. The Avia Pro deep double crossing ramp test screen is a great test for this. Look to "sharpen" the bright peak of white in the middle of the upper ramp (going left to right the upper ramp increases to digital luminance value 254 and then decreases from 254). If you have a "wide" patch of white in the middle instead of a sharp peak, then you are crushing Peak White data. Your ideal combo will likely not have a sharp, fine line in the middle, but sharpen it as much as is practical.


Next I've found that it is best to make all the adjustments using ONLY the D2's blacks/whites/colors settings. Leave any display controls at their neutral settings (that's 0 for Contrast, Brightness, Color, and Hue on my Fujitsu), and do the same thing for any source devices that include such controls. I suspect the extra bit depth of the processing inside the D2 is what's giving the advantage here. Just calibrate using the D2's separate settings for each source device going into your display.


The only trick with that is if you are using more than one display (i.e, Zone 2, or a flat panel along with a projection screen), since the D2 doesn't seem to have separate settings per source device per "path". So calibrate the D2's levels for Main and adjust from there using the second display's own controls.


Now the last bit of fun and games comes in trying to do all this while eliminating the "noise" in the low grays. This noise is, I think, likely due to dithering in the digital display fighting with dithering in the D2, and possibly aggravated by whatever the heck the D2 is doing to simulate "floating blacks". At it's worst it is simply godawful -- easily visible in real movies.


What you need to do is to look at a sequence of low gray screens, increasing from 7.5 IRE (Black) to roughly 20 or 30 IRE -- or the digital equivalents thereof. Avia Pro has such test screens. As mentioned in an earlier post, Avia Pro also has some moving black bars test screens where the other half of the image varies in gray scale brightness. These screens are a good quick test of the problem, but the low grays increase to higher grays too fast for use while trying to adjust things.


Now as is typically the case, the "best" combo of Contrast (white levels) and Brightness (black levels) controls is really chosen from a short list of very similar looking pairs of those settings. But the low gray scale noise seems to be particularly sensitive to 1 or 2 step changes in both of these Controls -- another indication that we are seeing a duel of two dithering engines. So try the various nearby pairs of Brightness and Contrast until you find the sweet spot that minimizes the noise while also still letting Peak White data pass and while optimizing Blacks for mid bright scenes. Think of it as keeping lots of plates spinning on top of lots of sticks. It's OK for one to be a bit "wobbly", just don't let it fall off.


What I ended up doing was getting into the ballpark and then writing down the Brightness/Contrast combos near there that largely eliminated the noise. Then go to the other test screens and cull out the pairs that trigger other problems such as white crush. I ended up with a setting that still has a hair more noise than I think should really be there, as well as having a bit more of Blacker than Black data visible in dark scenes than I think should really be there, and a bit more crush of the highest Peak White data than I would like, but which otherwise seems to be a good compromise setting.


Finally, use the D2's Color and Hue adjustments, as necessary, to make sure colors are correct. Any Sharpness or Detail Enhancement processing you want should also likely be done in the D2.


------------------------------------------------------------------------


My final settings using the D2 for my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD player and my Fujitsu P50 (30 series) plasma are:


59avi outputs HDMI 480i using Carl Sundstrom's modified 59avi settings to preserve Blacker than Black and Peak White data.


Fujitsu plasma receives HDMI to DVI 1360x768 from the D2. Fujitsu Contrast, Brightness, Color, and Hue all set to 0. Fujitsu Sharpness set to -4 (lowest setting available at this resolution). Fujitsu picture mode set to Natural. Fujitsu Color Temp set to -3000K relative to Natural mode's default.


D2 set to expect "Studio RGB" from the 59avi and to send "RGB" to the plasma (due to the DVI connection to the plasma).


D2's Video Source Adjustment / Picture Color settings for the 59avi:


Contrast: 45

Brightness: 59

Saturation: 50 (factory default works just fine here)

Hue: 50 (factory default works just fine here)


Film Mode: Auto


Detail Enhancement at it's lowest setting (presumably that means "off")


Noise Reduction: 50 (just a guess on what's best here)


Motion Threshold: 4 (factory default)


Chroma Bug Correction: ON


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


And the results are stunningly good!


I may be able to improve these settings down the road, but right now I'd have to say I'm exceptionally pleased with the DVD images I'm seeing. Problem scenes I've viewed so far appear to be much MUCH better than what I could get out of the 59avi's de-interlacer, and with scaling done either by the Fujitsu plasma alone, or by the 59avi scaling up to 1080i and then the plasma scaling back down to native resolution.


I'm still seeing a bit of low gray "graininess" which I attribute to too much Blacker than Black data getting through due to the "floating blacks" (Blacker than Black data is inherently lower quality data due to quality limitations in the entire digital video production chain from camera to TV screen), but it's nothing like the nasty noise I started with. Now what I'm seeing seems to be more like the inherent quality limits of the DVD movies themselves. I.e., the usually problem -- great equipment also makes DEFECTS in the content more visible.


I'm going to leave things set this way for a while and see if I can spot any gotchas.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------


Of course one gotcha is that you can only easily do this for a DVD player source. For now I've just copied the D2 settings for the 59avi over to the D2 settings for the Comcast box -- except that the Comcast D2 settings use HDMI Auto detect on the color space to automatically switch expected color space input between HDTV YCbCr at 1080i, or SDTV YCbCr at 480i instead of the Studio RGB coming in from the 59avi. I haven't had time to do a lot of critical Comcast viewing since making these settings, but the early results, for HDTV at least, also look quite good.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,



> Quote:
> placidman and rudolpht, thanks for reporting your audio delay or lack thereof. I wonder what the difference is here? It can't just be an HDMI thing since placidman would not be using HDMI audio to an AVM50. rudopht, I'm assuming you are running digital audio to handle DD 5.1 for HDTV programs, right? So it's not just a digitial audio connection thing either. I'll have to find some time to experiment.



Bob, I AM using HDMI audio from my SA 8300HD to the AVM 50. Sorry if I was not clear on that eariler.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ralph,

Got it. I think I'll have time to try using an optical digital audio connection from the comcast later today.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE

Bob.


If you read through the thread fully, there is an ISF calibrator that said that the combo 79AVi/D2 or 59AVi/D2 are a bit problematic because there is only 1 combination of settings working for those, and all the rest is not accurate. So you need to find the good one.


I don't have this problem you seem to have in the blacks with all my players and the D2 paired with the Sony Ruby. Everything is at default in the user menu of the Ruby (except alot of service menus tweaks...) and all my players are at default. All the brightness, contrast and other picture settings are done in the D2 Gennum menu. I'm outputting 1080p60 YCbCr 4:4:4 to the Ruby.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Levesque,

If it's the post I'm thinking of, I believe umr only addressed the 79avi. The 59avi doesn't have the color space altering settings that he was trying to sort out between the 79avi and the D2. I'm not seeing any of the crush or scaling problems that I think he was describing.


Now the 59avi has its own problems at 480i (ONLY!), which can be worked around using Carl Sundstrom's settings found in the first post of the 59avi Owner's Thread in the DVD Forum here.


I don't believe the noise I'm seeing is a 59avi problem, but I've been wrong before. I believe it is a conflict between the fancy processing the D2 is trying to do for near black situations and the same processing my Fujitsu plasma is trying to do. Kind of an optical beat frequency between those two that presents itself as noise.


That said, I'm surprised you aren't seeing the "floating blacks".


Try this: Set blacks using the darkest test screen you have with the typical moving black bars. Avia Pro has an all black screen with just the moving black bars for example. Set blacks so that, say, two bars are visible with the blacker bar being just visible.


Now go to the BRIGHTEST test screen you have that also has moving black bars in a portion of it. Avia Pro has a screen where the bars are on a black background on the left side and the right side cycles from black to white in about 50 steps. But you can also use the typical needle pulses test screen which has a lot of white and light gray on it as well as the moving black bars on a black background in some portion. If you have "floating blacks" you will NOT be able to see both black bars on that lighter screen even if you get up close so that your eye is not fooled by the light output from the rest of the screen. Your effective Brightness setting has floated lower on the brighter screen so that one or both of the moving black bars have merged with Black itself. If you DON'T have floating blacks you WILL still be able to see those two black bars.


If I cable my 59avi directly to my Fujitsu, HDMI to DVI at 480p, I have no floating blacks.


If I cable my 59avi at HDMI 480p to the D2, and then cable HDMI to DVI at 480p from the D2 to the Fujitsu, I *DO* have floating blacks -- and the noise problem

I discussed.


Of course the setting I actually use for watching is 480i in from the 59avi and 1360x768 out to the Futjitsu, but the floating blacks are there even if I stick with an all 480p path via the D2.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Now for something completely different.


notanewbie, placidman, & rudolpht,


I just changed my Comcast setup to send digital audio via an optical cable instead of via the HDMI cable and that *FIXED!* my audio delay problem when changing channels! Yay!


Now audio begins just as the HD/DVR starts to show moving video (a slight pause after the initial still image comes on screen following the HDMI handshake, most likely due to the DVR buffer getting its butt in gear). Or the audio might even start BEFORE the video starts.


Problem solved.


I don't know, of course, whether this is an HDMI flaw in the Comcast box, or in the D2, or in the design spec of HDMI itself. It has the flavor of a second handshake happening for audio AFTER the video handshake completes.

--Bob


----------



## notanewbie

I will send you my bill in the mail










As far as the black levels are concerned, I too noticed this same thing when going through either HDMI or Component and the D2. When I went direct to the monitor (panny plasma) the levels were accurate.


If you are so inclined to troubleshoot and waste time, try connecting your DVD player direct to the Fuji and see if the black levels improve.


If they do then it is the D2 (which was what I found) if not, it could be cables, the player or even the monitor itself.


----------



## pciav

Bob,


If you are stil using software V1.00 some things will change once you install the new update due this week. Along the way Anthem changed how black level and colorspace conversion works and it should improve some of the things you are seeing.


After installing the new software, when available, you will need to recalibrate everything. Here's a suggestion: Use the Anthem's built in test pattern signal generating capabilities and calibrate the display first to a baseline, then make individual adjustments for your sources individually by input using the D2 controls. In the VP Menu (7 key access) go to test patterns and put up the gray ramp, calibrate the display brightness and contrast using this pattern and make the adjustments using the display's brightness and contrast controls. This is much more revealing of the noise issues you are seeing in the lower values. Like you, I found careful interaction between brightness and contrast eliminated all but the limitations inherent in the display itself. Once you set the brightness and contrast using the display brightness and contrast controls, put up the Color Bar Pattern and use the display controls to make any adjustments necessary.


After using the internal test patterns, then calibrate each source and make the adjustments for each source input like you did before. I think you will find doing this will yield better results.


As far as your floating blacks, I do not see this with the D2 to my NEC 61XM2/S Plasma also being fed 1360x768 HDMI>DVI. This is more than likely the Fujitsu's AVMII since it can not truly be bypassed as far as I know. Somewhere in the Plasma forum or archives is a post by Trainer Dave from Fujitsu on this. Hope this helps.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Notanewbie,

I already have a ton of experience with this DVD player directly connected to this plasma via HDMI to DVI. It's not a perfect setup, but gray scale levels are not the issue -- no floating blacks, no bizarre noise.


I've been using that pair at 480p since the DVI input will not accept 480i. One reason for getting the D2 was to run 480i to the D2 to access its superior de-interlacing, which by the way, is indeed visually excellent in the tests I've run so far.


My guess is that the D2 is INTENTIONALLY set to try to emulate the "floating blacks" inherent in the studio monitors used by the content editors to set levels while the DVD transfer is being made. It is a long standing problem that you can't get accurate black levels off a DVD movie unless your monitor (or combo of monitor and other processing) happens to match the same level of "float" found in the studio monitors.


Otherwise your ideal black level settings will need to vary from scene to scene. Of course nobody does that, but rather lives with a "compromise" black level setting.


That is, I think this is a D2 "feature". It just surprised me to find it. It also surprised me that there's no way to disable it. I'd love to disable it just long enough to see if that cures the noise problem.


"Floating blacks" complicate the calibration process, but the end result, once things really are calibrated, should be a closer match to what the content creators were TRYING to show on screen.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

pciav,

Thanks for the teaser on the new software! (grin!)


If you are using that new software, I suppose it's possible they eliminated the "floating blacks" issue as well. I'll check it when it arrives. But the "floating blacks" is NOT inherently a Fujitsu problem. As I just posted to notanewbie, I've had tons of time running this particular DVD player HDMI to DVI at 480p into this particular plasma directly, prior to getting my D2, and there is no black float in that direct connection. Only when the D2 is added.


Your suggestion to separately calibrate the display and then the sources is a good one, although the D2's test screens are pretty limited for someone trying to calibrate without a light sensor.


I'll give them a look, however. My quick reaction when I looked at them AFTER making the settings I described above, is that they seemed to be pretty much on target already -- i.e., using the Fujitsu's default settings. So I may have just lucked out there.

--Bob


----------



## pciav




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> pciav,
> 
> Thanks for the teaser on the new software! (grin!)
> 
> 
> If you are using that new software, I suppose it's possible they eliminated the "floating blacks" issue as well. I'll check it when it arrives. But the "floating blacks" is NOT inherently a Fujitsu problem. As I just posted to notanewbie, I've had tons of time running this particular DVD player HDMI to DVI at 480p into this particular plasma directly, prior to getting my D2, and there is no black float in that direct connection. Only when the D2 is added.



Just my opinion...the Fujitsu's AVMII is optomized to handle standard video resolutions and not PC resolutions. If you output 720p or 1080i from the D2 to the Fujitsu does the problem go away? I would not go to crazy until you load up the latest software which will be v1.06 and hopefully will be posted soon on the Anthem site.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Your suggestion to separately calibrate the display and then the sources is a good one, although the D2's test screens are pretty limited for someone trying to calibrate without a light sensor.
> 
> 
> I'll give them a look, however. My quick reaction when I looked at them AFTER making the settings I described above, is that they seemed to be pretty much on target already -- i.e., using the Fujitsu's default settings. So I may have just lucked out there.



Without instrumentation it is all a guess, but one thing I picked up from watching a calibrator work is that for basic contrast and brightness settings let your eyes be the judge. Using the gray ramp you can see the overall performance black to white and see where your problems are before doing any color temp adjustments.


Interested to hear if v1.06 helps or not. Just be prepared because of the changes made mentioned above, you more than likely will have to re-calibrate.


----------



## notanewbie

PCIAV's suggstion is indeed a good one. Try sending the plasma 480 or 720 or anything other than 1360 and see if you still have the problem.


I am glad you have narrowed down the issue to the D2, I wish you would have posted this 3 weeks ago to save me the time and effort it took to eliminate all the other options










I am uncertain if AVMII is bypassed completely or not if sent 1360. I know it cannot accept 1366 or 1365 native and the rows of pixels on either end of the screen will never get information at 1360 but, I am not sure if the AVM is completly bypassed. My guess would be that it IS but, PCIAV's guess that it is NOT is just as valid.


----------



## pciav

v1.06 is up on the Anthem site. See HERE


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> _*Originally posted by pciav*_ "v1.06 is up on the Anthem site."



Will the new firmware updates be of any benefit to me if I only use component video inputs/outputs on my D2? I haven't been worried about the updates yet, since I am not having any problems that I am aware of.


----------



## pciav

mlbrand,


I'm not sure, best to ask Anthem directly. It's totally up to you if things are functioning properly and you are happy, but there are some minor feature enhancements (test patterns etc.) that are also included in addition to the bug fixes implemented.


----------



## rudolpht

 1.06 update. Note different than the D2 now.


----------



## rudolpht

It updates what seems like every chip in the unit. Maybe they were always different installs. AVM is bigger than D2.


----------



## randman

I've got a question on the optimal setting to use for the Video Output Data Format (menu item 8d) when used with a 720p DLP front projector with DVI input.


I have a Marantz VP-12S3 720p DLP front projector. My D2 is connected to the S3 using an HDMI to DVI cable. I'm not sure what the optimal settings to use between the D2 and the S3.


The S3 projector has the following possible settings for its DVI input (descriptions below

are from the S3 manual):


- RGB: Color space conversion is skipped.

- YPbPr: This mode is suitable for HDTV signals such as 720p, 1080i

- YCbCr: This mode is suitable for SDTV signals such as 480i, 480p


So, this seems to rule out YCbCr, based on the S3 manual's description. However, should I use RGB or YPbPr??


The S3 also has a black level setup setting, which can be set to one of the following (descriptions below are from the S3 manual):


- Normal: 16 (Black) ~ 235 (White). For NTSC system for USA, this level is 7.5IRE

- Expand: 0 (Black) ~ 246 (White). For NTSC system for Japan and DVD, this level is 0 IRE.


If I recall, "Normal" is what should be used for non-PC sources??


Now, the Anthem's data format (menu item 8d) has the following settings (quote from manual below):


"Choices are YCbCr 4:2:2 (for TVs) or 4:4:4 (rarely used),

RGB (normally for computer monitors with HDMI),

Extended RGB (normally used with DVI), and Auto."



My question is: amongst the possible settings listed above, what are the optimal combination of values to use in the S3 and in the D2? Some combinations obviously don't work (and would result in a greenish or pinkish screen). If I recall, I believe at one point I tried the RGB setting in my S3 and the Extended RGB setting in the D2, and things looked fine, but later on, when I turned things back on, I got the greenish (or was it pinkish?)

behavior with these settings and had to try another combination. I thought it strange that at one point I got good behavior and another time, with the same settings, I got the greenish (or pinking?) behavior. I was using firmware version 1.00, so maybe that had to do something with it (I'm traveling currently and haven't yet applied 1.06).


Anyway, can anyone suggest the optimal setting to use in the D2's 8d menu and the S3 (RGB, or YPbPr?).


What are other folks with 720p DLP projectors using?


Also, for the D2 resolution, I assume that for a 720p DLP projector, that the optimal setting is 1280x720p/60?


Thanks!


----------



## Max Spivak

Has anyone ever seen something like this? Two columns on greenish dots -- happens when I output 480i from Oppo 970HD to D2:











Works fine when I set Oppo to output 480p:











(Ignore the blurry photos -- I didn't have the camera stabilized and exposure in the dark takes a little while.)


Video D2 settings. HDMI connection from Oppo -> D2 and DVI from D2 to JVC HX1U. Original firmware on both Oppo & D2 (still need to update).











------------


Initial impressions: I picked up my brand-spanking new D2 from the dealer on Friday night. Yesterday, the B&K came out of the rack and the Anthem went in. I spent Sunday on audio and did the first pass on video today.


After my first 2 days with the D2, I'm quite happy. The sound is fantastic. After a quick distance and speaker level calibration, with everything else default, it sounds better than B&K Ref 50. It's also much easier to set up and use -- a very, vey welcome thing. It mates very nicely with the A5 amp into Triad Silver Monitor speakers. I find that I enjoy AnthemLogic-Music, maybe a bit more than DPLIIx on Ref50. Straight stereo is fantastic, of course. The sound is simply natural. Very, very, very sweet!


Today I tackled HDMI video. Hooked everything up: Oppo ---HDMI---> Anthem ---optical DVI---> JVC HX1U pj. Turned it on... and got the evil magenta screen. My wife's understated comment was, "This doesn't look right. They have a fix for it, right?". Gee, thanks dear! Started tweaking video settings, one at a time, to see what fixes things. Setting data format to RGB fixed it. And then I noticed the green dots -- aren't they weird! At least there is a workaround by sending 480p from the dvd player. The picture is quite good, without any tweaking on the player, the D2 or projector. The calibration disks are coming out next.










Quick aside -- they say experience is best gained when it happens to someone else -- or something like that. To those of you who inadvertently fried your D2 by inserting cables with its power on -- I say a big thanks. I'm now *PARANOID* about having the power cable out when I just *think* of reaching behind the unit!











What I love (so far):


* Sound quality!!! Simply awesome!

* On-screen status & display. After years of not having it (never used B&K for video switching) being able to see volume level when you change it and other status is so, so nice!

* Ease of use and it's look. There are a lot of buttons on the front, but they're nicely organized. Settings are easy to select and status is easy to see. The look is classy, esp. along with the A5. My wife even commented that she likes the look.

* Manual and remote. These may look small fry in a product of this caliber, but they're not. Especially the manual -- very comprehensive and well written. Doesn't just list the options and setting, it actually explains them. Notes and tips sprinkled throughout are helpful. The remote won't win any awards, and sooner or later I'll add the D2 to my home automation system, but the included remote is nicely backlit and balanced, pretty functional, so far. With all the D2 - Oppo hype, I'm suprised that the remote doesn't have Oppo settings -- oh well.



On the fence (with disclaimer):


* Video quality is not there yet for me. I don't know which of the 3 pieces (dvd player, d2, pj) is responsible for the green dots. And I need to update firmare on both the Oppo and D2. And video hasn't been calibrated yet. So I'll reserve judgement for now.


* Relialibility and bugs. I haven't run into any bugs that I've narrowed down to the D2. As an engineer, bugs are an everyday thing for me. As long as they're addressed in a timely fashion, I'll be happy. Having had it only for two days, reliability is too early to predict. Hopefully keeping it cool with a fan will help matters.



Improvements I'd like to see:


1. Custom resolutions!!! My JVC DILA projector's panel is 1400x788. I would love to bypass its internal scaler and send NR from D2.


2. Heat. I have a full size MA AXS rack in a wood cabinet. The rack pulls out 5 feet for setup -- while there, the D2 gets warm but not too hot. Once I push eveything back into the cabinet and close the door, I'm sure it will heat up. I will order a MA 3U fan and install it above the D2. Electronics don't like to run hot. The fan is $250 + a bit of noise (hopefully not much with the ultra-quiet model) and the D2 is >$6K. I'm definitely getting the fan. A good thing: when it's on standby, it's pretty cold. My B&K was *always* warm.


3. Auto-calibration. I can wait, but I want it at some point.


Cheers,

Max


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I downloaded and installed 1.06 last night. No problems...


Regards,


----------



## goenkar

I installed 1.06 and had to restore factory defaults to get video back.


I have an issue with OPPO though. I cannot get a multi-channel from SACD, defaults to 2-channel. This worked before in 1.04.


I have OPPO (with 6/13 beta) set to RAW/SPDIF. I see it switch to "multi-channel" when playing back by going to "setup" menu when SACD is playing. Pre-amp just sees 2 channel.


I tried every 6-ch map (option "i") to see if pre-amp could find the 6 channels and no luck.


I have reported problem to Anthem but wanted to see if anyone else had this issue also.


Anthem has been good in fixing other issues I have had with OPPO and am very happy with their dedication to customer service.


----------



## David Bott

*NOTE THE NAME OF THIS THREAD...."Anthem D2 and Gennum VXP scaler. Tweak guide"


Please keep it on topic and not used for other motives. THIS IS THE ONLY WARNING THAT WILL BE GIVEN.*


----------



## FilmMixer

Max... what version of software are you on? I had some similar issues on 1.00 and they went away with the newer software revs..


----------



## pciav

Randman,


I would use this as a starting point and go from there:


Set the S3 for RGB & Normal and the D2 to 1280x720p/60 & RGB. In the D2 VP menu (7 key access) under the picture menu make sure the input color space is set to Auto & Studio RGB. This combination should produce optimal results. Video Levels In (16-235) and Video Levels Out.


DVI in is inherently RGB. As a result, the signal must be converted at some point. Since you can do the convrsion in the D2 or the S3 try it both ways and see what you think produces a better image to your eyes. Short of a professional calibration, this is the best you can do.


Possible Alternative Configuration, try the following despite the descriptions:


Set the S3 to YCbCr or YPbPr, whichever works, (it should be YCbCr since this is the digital nomenclature for Component in the digital domain, but based upon there description it may have a limitation on the signal. YPbPr signafies analog component...) and Normal for black. Set the D2 to 1280x720p/60 YCbCr 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 (try both combinations along with the S3 combination also) & RGB. Same settings apply in the VP menu.


With the alternative settings the S3 will be doing the RGB conversion. Based upon some reports, RGB conversion in the D2 seems to be the cause of some of the problems reported with green and magenta screens. Try it and see how it goes. Finding the right combination that is optimal for your setup is the key to getting the most out of the D2.


Hope this helps.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

pciav and notanewbie,

The floating blacks and noise problems also show if the DVD player sends 720x480p to the D2 (HDMI to HDMI) and the D2 then sends 720x480p to the Fujitsu (HDMI to DVI).


The problem does NOT show if the DVD player is directly connected to the Fujitsu at 720x480p (HDMI to DVI).


I've not tried 720p from the D2. I've tried 1080i from the D2 briefly, but not enough to be sure of the answer there.


In any event, all further testing on this will be place on hold while we attempt an upgrade to the new software!

--Bob


----------



## notanewbie

BOB: It is clearly the D2 at this point. All other options I can think of have been eliminated. Perhaps you will find a resolution that will not display this issue but, in the end I think if a firmware update doesnt cure the problem it is something you will have to live with.


Can you live with it?


----------



## Max Spivak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Max... what version of software are you on? I had some similar issues on 1.00 and they went away with the newer software revs..



I'm on original firmware for both D2 and Oppo. Will update tonight.


----------



## yatchaks

When my AVM 50 is working, I love it. However, I'm getting a little frusttrated with a few issues. My wife can't believe the money we have spent on my equipment, and then I have to show her how to respond to the various glitches. Of course, her frustration adds to mine. If anyone has any suggestion/tips, please let me know.


I have corresponded with Nick via e-mail after various beta release were sent to me. The following e-mail was sent today.

*Nick,


I wanted to mention a few problems with the latest software installed.


Moto 6412 (9.19) connected via HDMI/DVI---Better than half of the time I get a squished image in the middle about 1/3 the size of the screen with both HD an SD. A power toggle (AVM 50 or 6412)) fixes the issue. This usually happens when powering everything on, but sometimes happens when changing channels on the fly.


When watching a DVD on the Oppo 970 (latest software installed) and switching to the Moto 6412, I get a green screen and need to power toggle the AVM 50. This happens 100% of the time. I have attempted to power toggle the Moto 6412, but it has never worked.


I Mentioned before about using the Intel Mac Mini, and mentioned it was working well. I had to resort to plugging (HDMI/DVI) it back in to the Sony SXRD instead of the Anthem. Whenever I have to do a restart to the Mac Mini, I get a black screen. The only fix is to plug DVI from the TV to the Mac, then back to (HDMI/DVI) the Anthem.
*


----------



## goenkar

Yatchaks,


I have a similar setup as you, AVM-50 with OPPO and 6412 (71.44 / 09.17) from Brighthouse MI.


I found that if I have the OPPO sending 480i to the preamp and 6412 sending either 720p or 1080i to the preamp then when I switch from 6412 to OPPO and back I lose the picture. I get a black screen instead of green.


If I set the OPPO to output either 720p or 1080i to the preamp then I can switch between the 2 without a loss of picture.


Note that the output resolutions on the 6412 and OPPO do not have to match i.e. one can be 720p and the other 1080i.


Also, this problem only happens on the HDMI inputs. I have DISH/TIVO feeding the preamp via S-Video at 480i and do not have an issue switching between 6412 and those inputs.


I am having an issue with the latest firmware 1.06 as noted in a post above where I cannot get multi-channel SACD to work.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pciav* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randman,
> 
> 
> I would use this as a starting point and go from there:
> 
> 
> Set the S3 for RGB & Normal and the D2 to 1280x720p/60 & RGB. In the D2 VP menu (7 key access) under the picture menu make sure the input color space is set to Auto & Studio RGB. This combination should produce optimal results. Video Levels In (16-235) and Video Levels Out.
> 
> 
> DVI in is inherently RGB. As a result, the signal must be converted at some point. Since you can do the convrsion in the D2 or the S3 try it both ways and see what you think produces a better image to your eyes. Short of a professional calibration, this is the best you can do.
> 
> 
> Possible Alternative Configuration, try the following despite the descriptions:
> 
> 
> Set the S3 to YCbCr or YPbPr, whichever works, (it should be YCbCr since this is the digital nomenclature for Component in the digital domain, but based upon there description it may have a limitation on the signal. YPbPr signafies analog component...) and Normal for black. Set the D2 to 1280x720p/60 YCbCr 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 (try both combinations along with the S3 combination also) & RGB. Same settings apply in the VP menu.
> 
> 
> With the alternative settings the S3 will be doing the RGB conversion. Based upon some reports, RGB conversion in the D2 seems to be the cause of some of the problems reported with green and magenta screens. Try it and see how it goes. Finding the right combination that is optimal for your setup is the key to getting the most out of the D2.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.



Phil:


Thanks for the info. Once I get home from travelling, I'll give this a try. Don't recall if I tried the first option you specified (but various combinations that I tried resulted in green/magenta screens).


Thanks.


----------



## Max Spivak

Updated both Oppo and D2. Still get the green dots when signal from Oppo is 480i. No problem with other resolutions. Any ideas?











I also connected Oppo directly to the pj, bypassing D2. No dots.


----------



## DrJRapp

Have you been trying the Oppo on different HDMI inputs? I know with my D2, only certain devices will work on certain inputs, ie: My Toshiba XA1 will only work on HDMI2.


Also, have you another HDMI input device you can try? Perhaps you can borrow one. You may also want to try different HDMI cables.


If all else fails, contact Nick at Anthem. He will probably initially blame the problem on the Oppo, and whine about how he always has to fix others problems. Ignore his martyrdom act and remind him that there are many of us out here using the Oppo with the D2 without issues.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Max,

Are you by any chance using rather long HDMI cables when hooked up through your D2? What you are seeing as green dots might possibly be bit dropout due to a weak digital signal over a long (or otherwise flakey) cable.


However, usually such bit dropout would be much more randomized in screen position. And it is hard to see how a cable problem would show when your input is 480i and go away when your input is 480p.


-----------------------------------------------------------


Here's another experiment to try: Lower both Brightness and Contrast on your display substantially, and also lower them in the D2 for the Oppo's input. Do the green dots go away?


If so, then you are likely overdriving black levels on either the D2 or the display (or both). A digital signal path like this will have trouble if you try to set black levels so high that it tries to make black into very dark gray. It can't light all the pixels "just a little bit" since the minimum step is one step up in digital value, so instead it tries to dither by turning on just a few of the pixels. This can result in a regular pattern of wrong color pixels like you are seeing -- think of it as a rounding error.


To test this you need to lower the settings both on the D2's input for the Oppo and on the display since the rounding error could happen at either of those points. If the Oppo has its own output level controls you might want to try lowering them as well. If lowering levels makes the green dots go away, then use the re-appearance of the green dots as an upper limit on suitable settings when you are picking proper levels for normal viewing.


Now many source devices, including some DVDs, handle Black levels differently for 480i vs. 480p output. On analog outputs this is due to market research confusion over whether more customers will find an easy match of source to display if the source, by default, puts out Black as zero voltage vs. the small positive voltage corresponding to 7.5 IRE. There should be no such confusion regarding the digital outputs, but nevertheless many many source devices still confusingly switch between Black = digital 0 and Black = digital 16 when you change output resolution from 480i to 480p or vice versa.


The result is that your source's output Black levels will unexpectedly shift by 16 steps when you change between those two resolutions. And that may be enough to overdrive blacks at your current level settings.


If THAT'S the culprit, then look for a "Black Level" control on the Oppo. It will have two choices, but they could be called just about anything since the marketing guys have no clue how to describe this: E.g., Normal vs. Enhanced, or 0 vs 7.5, or Lighter vs. Darker. When you switch to 480i just switch that Black Level control to the other setting as well and see if the problem goes away.


Since 480i directly to the display shows no problem, the expectation would be that you are overdriving blacks on the digital input into the D2. But it could be that your levels are set so close to the upper limit on the display, that just the subtle differences in processing between 480i and 480p in the D2 are shifting things just over the limit on the output to the display.


------------------------------------------------------------------------


If this is a device flaw, as opposed to cable problems or level setting problems, isolating which device is at fault is the next step.


You can "borrow" another cheap HDMI source device from a store like Best Buy with an easy 30 day return for refund policy. If the green dots don't show, then the finger points at the Oppo.


If the green dots do show, then the finger points at the D2 since you already know you have no green dots with the Oppo directly connected to the display.

--Bob


----------



## Max Spivak

Thanks for your replies guys.


Bob,


Cable from Oppo to D2 is about 3 ft copper that came w/Oppo. D2 to pj is 20m fiber DVI w/HDMI-DVI adapter. I will buy and try a different cable between Oppo and D2. The long optical would be very hard to replaces (in-sofft long run) and it works directly b/t Oppo and pj.


Interesting point about blacks. I'll experiment tonight. None of the three devices in the chain -- oppo, D2, or projector -- have been calibrated yet.


DrJRapp,


I'll try different HDMI inputs -- good one.


I sent Nick an email last night with problem and photo. He asked a couple of follow-on questions and tried to reproduce problem inhouse. Something he suggested trying is to set D2 output to something other than 720p. He also asked if it happens with another, different source. I'll need to try tonight.


Which brings me to the question of a different source to try. Since the problem is when oppo is sending 480i to D2, can anyone suggest a source that outputs 480i HDMI that I can "borrow" from a store? I don't have a cable box. And none of the big box stores around here is selling Pioneer 59 or 79 DVD player.


Heck, I guess I can send an email to Oppo -- see if they've ever seen this.


Thx,

Max


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Spivak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Which brings me to the question of a different source to try. Since the problem is when oppo is sending 480i to D2, can anyone suggest a source that outputs 480i HDMI that I can "borrow" from a store? I don't have a cable box. And none of the big box stores around here is selling Pioneer 59 or 79 DVD player.



Hello Max,

Here are the players that can send 480i over HDMI

Pioneer Elite 79avi

Pioneer Elite 59avi

Sony DVP-NS975V

Arcam DV79

Marantz DV9600

Classe CDP-300

SigmaTek XMB-510

LG LDA-511

NeuNeo HVD2085 (latest firmware as of 3-14-2006)

LG DVX9900H

Oppo 970HD

Pio DV490-V


----------



## DrJRapp

Max


Why don't you ask the dealer that sold you the D2 if they have a DVD to lend you that does 480i over HDMI.


----------



## Max Spivak

Oppo says they've never seen it:

---

We have not heard of this error before, either from end users or beta

testers. We do know that Antem recently updated their firmware, and it

may be adventageous to update the firmware to see if this does not fix

your 480i error.

---


elmac -- good list. I guess I could've searched for it


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Spivak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> elmac -- good list. I guess I could've searched for it



Some time is easier to ask


----------



## whitewolf1

Just took the AVM50 plunge! I should get it in a week or so. Thanks Placidman for your comments! I felt the 50 was a better choice for me than the D2 for much the same reasoning as yours. I'm sure there will be bugs to explore with my equipment as well and I'll post my experiences as they develop.

DJ


----------



## dsmith901




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsmith901* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is anyone using the AVM50 with a Panasonic plasma, using either DVI or HDMI input? If so I would appreciate any comments on problems, PQ, etc. Thanks.



So no one on the planet is using the AVM50 (or D2) with a Panasonic plasma?!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

New improved continuing saga, V1.06 --


I'm a Mac kind of guy so I originally tried doing the upgrade from V1.00 to V1.06 using Virtual PC on the Mac with a Belkin USB to Serial adapter that I've used for other applications. My intent was to verify the connection using Live Video Settings Editor, and then go from there.


But Live Video Setting Editor was not able to get a good lock on the connection. It would sometimes find the D2 but would then promptly lose it again.


OK, so I abandoned the Mac and switched to an older Windows PC that I keep around for just such purposes.


Son of a gun but Live Video Settings Editor wouldn't communicate properly that way either!


So I tried the new Setup Editor that came with V1.06 and that worked fine! And based on that confidence check, I ran the upgrade and that ran fine as well.


Although I didn't go back to the Mac to try again, it is quite possible doing this stuff on the Mac would ALSO have worked if I'd just ignored Live Video Settings Editor. Live Video Settings Editor was identified as V1.04, so it may simply not be compatible with the original V1.00 D2 software. I didn't try it again on the PC after the upgrade either, so it might work now, I just don't know.


-------------------------------------------------------------


I used Settings Editor to save my settings to the PC prior to the upgrade and to restore them after the upgrade. That worked fine as well.


As warned in the included docs, the output resolution to my Fujitsu ended up at a strange setting (1280 x 980 or some such) after this, but resetting that was no problem.


Other settings seemed to come through unscathed.


---------------------------------------------------------------


The new software seems to have fixed the HDMI connection problems between sources and the D2, and between the D2 and the display. Yay!


Other observations are:


1) The "floating blacks" are still present


2) The low gray scale noise is still present, but at a much more manageable level. That is, it is much easier to find Contrast/Brightness settings that work for basic level and also minimize, if not quite completely eliminate this noise.


3) I'm still seeing the Bottom two lines cropped on my 1360 x 768 output to the Fujitsu. Since I have no other device that can drive the Fujitsu at that resolution, I'm not sure whether this is a D2 problem or a Fujitsu problem. Left, Right, and Top go right out to pixel 0 on the Avia Pro pixel cropping test screen. Of course the left most 3 pixels and rightmost 2 pixels of each line are not driven since the Fujitsu can't accept it's full native matrix (a known Fujitsu limitation). But except for the loss of the bottom two lines of pixels, the pixels that ARE being driven appear to be matched 1 to 1. [By the way, the AVMII processing in the Fujitsu can not be bypassed, but when fed a 1360 x 768 signal, it is, apparently, not scaling -- just doing it's other processing as for example the low gray dithering that I suspect is battling with the D2's dithering and resulting in the noise I see if Contrast/Brightness levels are set wrong.]


4) The Polk XM receiver has a video display that only offers S-video output. It's kind of a grim reminder of just how bad TV used to be before Component and digital connections. However the new S-video adjustments in D2 V1.06 go a long way towards cleaning up that display. They seem to work just fine.


5) For some reason the new V1.06 software disables the Color and Hue input Video Source Adjustment / Picture settings for HDMI inputs. Shifting Color and Hue in the D2 to either end of their range has no effect whatsoever, whereas they worked just fine in V1.00. That means any color/hue adjustments have to be made either in the source device or at the display. I don't know if this is a new bug or if they decided it has to be this way for some reason.


6) The delay in startup of audio on changing channels from the Comcast HD/DVR remains as before if the audio is sent over HDMI. The workaround, as before, is to send audio over, say, the optical digital connection.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------


Calibration:


First I checked the default settings on the Fujitsu (Contrast, Brightness, Color, and Hue all at 0, and Sharpness at -4, its minimimum setting for this resolution) against the D2's built in test patterns. By eye and using the R, G, B color gelatin filters, the default settings seem to be a fine match for what the D2 is putting out. I assumed I would just leave them there and do everything else in the D2's input controls, but see color adjustment below.


Using Avia Pro I then spent quite a bit of time trying variations on D2 input settings for my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD player. The best Contrast/Brightness settings are indeed different from V1.00. Although "floating blacks" and low gray noise are still present, it is much MUCH easier to come up with a good pair of Contrast/Brightness settings that largely if not quite completely eliminates the noise without having to drive Blacks so high that excessive Blacker than Black detail becomes visible on nearly black scenes. I was able to set Black levels "normally" for 7.5 IRE and 10 IRE screens and have them carry through reasonable for the 55 IRE screen. Meanwhile Peak Whites were not crushed on the 100 IRE screen and the Deep Double X test screen showed a nicely sharpened Peak White level for the range between 235 and 254.


The final settings on the D2 input for the 59avi were:


Contrast: 47

Brightness: 46


These settings also look great on the Banding Check chart and the other Ramp charts. Default Gamma settings seem to be OK as well.


Then I went to adjust Color, and found that the default 50/50 settings were a little off compared to being quite good for V1.00. So I tried to adjust them and discovered that unlike V1.00, these controls have NO EFFECT on the HDMI input from the 59avi.


Scratch head, scratch head. Well the 59avi has it's own color output adjustments, but I decided to do the adjustment on the Fujitsu instead since I'm used to doing it that way from previous configurations.


I use the Color Checkerboard chart in Avia Pro which allows me to see the effect on Red, Green, and Blue simultaneously to pick the best "compromise" setting for saturation and tint for all three colors simultaneously. I've had good luck with doing it this way in the past -- finding that such a compromise setting is startlingly superior in real movie watching to the traditional user level approach of setting Color and Hue according to just the Blue channel and then reducing Color (only) as necessary to compensate for any Red push.


The final, compromise settings on the Fujitsu were:


Color: -1

Hue: +3


Both just a hair different from the Fujitsu's default 0/0.


Rechecking color to the Fujitsu with the D2's own, new SMPTE Color chart showed that indeed these settings were slightly off (i.e., 0/0 was better). But using the whole data path from the 59avi to the display, the settings above were superior.


But of course that means the Comcast HD/DVR would also be using these settings.


Lacking any obvious way to calibrate the Comcast HD/DVR separately (does INHD or whoever broadcast test screens periodically that I can record like HDNET does on DirecTV?), I just copied the Contrast /Brightness settings to the D2 input for the Comcast box and left the Fujitsu color settings as above.


------------------------------------------------------------------------


With these settings, and after (only) several hours of critical viewing my results so far are as follows:


The DVD imagery is spectacular.


It is simply the best I've seen so far. Problem scenes were cleaned up even more than with the V1.00 software -- which I attribute to being able to find settings that greatly reduce the inherent low gray noise without also forcing Blacker than Black data to appear in near black scenes.


I have seen a very few instances of instantaneous drop out in the HDMI video path from the DVD player (i.e., a brief white flash -- probably just one frame and not reproduceable if the scene is played again). But since I was playing problem DVDs that may be the cause, or there may have been some other source of transient interference affecting the signal. I'll keep an eye out for this, but right now it is not a problem.


Comcast SDTV is very very good for SDTV. Sometimes I will need to turn "Edges On" in the Video Source Adjustment / Cropping menu since otherwise I've allowed no overscan and will see the source station's noise data -- usually at the top of the screen. This is an easy adjustment when needed, but it would be nice if Anthem could make it an automatic setting on any given input for incoming 480i vs. 1080i.


Comcast HDTV is also very very good, but not quite spectacular yet. I suspect I may need to adjust black levels a bit more as I'm seeing a bit more low level graininess than I think should be there. This could be Blacker than Black data creeping up into visibility, or could be the inherent low gray noise that will be eliminated by a slight tweaking of D2 input settings. Edges On is sometimes needed here as well if a digital station is transmitting 4:3 content in a 1080i frame. Colors look just fine given that I'm sharing the Fujitsu's color settings between the Comcast and DVD paths.


All in all I'm quite pleased by the progress in this software upgrade.


-----------------------------------------------------------------


Audio sounds very good using default settings and having only adjusted speaker type, distance and level, but I still have to tune the bass response for my room, so any critical listening will wait until I've done that.

--Bob


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> New improved continuing saga, V1.06 --
> 
> ...
> 
> 5) For some reason the new V1.06 software disables the Color and Hue input Video Source Adjustment / Picture settings for HDMI inputs. Shifting Color and Hue in the D2 to either end of their range has no effect whatsoever, whereas they worked just fine in V1.00. That means any color/hue adjustments have to be made either in the source device or at the display. I don't know if this is a new bug or if they decided it has to be this way for some reason.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Thanks for the detailed info. If color and hue settings aren't available, that's not good. My display's DVI input doesn't allow setting of color and hue, so having the D2 provide these settings is a really nice benefit. Have you been able to confirm with Anthem if this is indeed a problem inadvertently introduced in v1.06?


Thanks.


----------



## Ron Alcasid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsmith901* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So no one on the planet is using the AVM50 (or D2) with a Panasonic plasma?!!



Apparantly, the D2 does not provide the correct timing to output native rate to a commercial Panasonic display. Supposedly Anthem is working on a fix. There was a huge ugly thread about it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ight=anthem+d2


----------



## rudolpht

1.04 Live Video came with the briefly released 1.04 and 1.06. It did not work for me under 1.0 (major differences in interface), 1.04 nor 1.06. As you mention Bob it looses lock and typically hangs on a save or load operation.


The 7 key is my friend.


On Comcast I noticed I needed to set 16:9 vs HDMI inputs (which works on some sources to maintain aspect ratio), bot not with the Moto boxes, it just stretches the horizontal on SD material.


----------



## whitewolf1

I have an H79 projector which has a native rate of 720p so I am not expecting an issue passing native resolution from the AVM50. I would not have purchased the Anthem if the situation were otherwise.

DJ


----------



## Bob Pariseau

randman,

I haven't had any direct contact with Anthem yet. I was kind of holding off until I had a problem that didn't have an obvious workaround or pending software fix, and I really haven't hit that yet. If I'm right on this Color/Hue thing, and I can't imagine how I could have fooled myself on this one, I suspect they'll get any number of phone calls shortly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

rudolpht,

Try this: Set HDMI "16:9" output on the Comcast HD/DVR. And leave it that way.


Using your friendly, neighborhood "7" key, set the D2's Video Source Adjustment / Scale Output to "Letter/Pillar Box" for the Comcast input.


For me that produces a proper 16:9 wide image for HDTV channels, and a 4:3 image with D2-manufactured pillar box bars on either side for SDTV channels on my Comcast/Motorola 3412 HD/DVR.


Automatically.


The D2's pillar box color is adjustable in the Setup menu.


[If you prefer to see your 4:3 content in wide screen -- for example if you are concerned about burn-in on a plasma -- select "Anamorphic" in this menu instead. That too will work just fine for both HDTV and SDTV. Personally I leave it on Anamorphic for casual viewing (since I use a plasma) and temporarily switch it to Letter/Pillar Box for critical SDTV viewing, e.g., those all important Addams Family reruns.]


This D2 function does NOT work automatically for my 59avi DVD player, so I leave that one on Anamorphic in the D2 and switch to Letter/Pillar Box manually as necessary for watching older movies or DVDs of TV programs. You can also get to this D2 setting via a fancy pressing combo of the Mode key -- see the new V1.06 documentation.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I've only had my D2 a few hours so far so good but still setting up. Quick question about the "7" Video menu settings are they global or input specific?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> rudolpht,
> 
> Try this: Set HDMI "16:9" output on the Comcast HD/DVR. And leave it that way.
> 
> 
> Using your friendly, neighborhood "7" key, set the D2's Video Source Adjustment / Scale Output to "Letter/Pillar Box" for the Comcast input.
> 
> 
> For me that produces a proper 16:9 wide image for HDTV channels, and a 4:3 image with D2-manufactured pillar box bars on either side for SDTV channels on my Comcast/Motorola 3412 HD/DVR.
> 
> --Bob



That's what I meant to say, only less eloquently







I meant "HDMI stream timings" vs "4:3" vs "16:9" vs using HDMI as an input (I actually use Component on the Moto to avoid the side issues to good effect). Bottom line as I got from you, 16:9 is the appropriate default. I wonder if any source uses the HDMI aspect ratio metadata correctly.


I use your methodology described on the 59Avi also. Thanks!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've only had my D2 a few hours so far so good but still setting up. Quick question about the "7" Video menu settings are they global or input specific?



My understanding (and my experience) is it is per input. The "Video Output" settings you want to stay "stuck" for obvious reasons.



Here's another observation. I think the uploading of software is fantastic, particularly with the improvements (despite a few side effects), followed by restoring settings.


One setting that does NOT restore is the OSD setting. It defaults back to S-Video only and I have to manually (after wondering why the info is missing) set S+HD.


Tim


----------



## Max Spivak

Update on my "green dots" problem. Still no luck. Here's what I've tried:


* Setting HDMI output to something other than 720p. Nick's suggestion. Set it to 1080i - no help.

* Tried a different, HDMI2, input. No go.

* Switched hdmi cable ends.







I know, it's stupid, but when you've got gremlins in the system, use unorthodox methods.


Still todo:

* Exchanged Oppo 970 today. I work about 5 miles from their office, so I swung in at lunch. Will try tonight. The Oppo guys thought the problme could be caused by the player. Since no one has seen this before, it would be my isolated player then, and a different one should fix it. They don't have a D2 inhouse, only a VP30.

* If different Oppo doesn't help, will try Bob's settings tests.

* I guess I could "borrow" Pio 79AVi from Magnolia... Not sure what it would demonstrate. Since Oppos generally work for other people, it's pretty safe to assume that if the green dots are still there with the exchanged player, it's most likely the D2.


I know, I'm overthinking this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Less satisfied saga....


Well I think I spoke too soon on DVD image quality yesterday.


I started last night trying to tackle the noise problem I was seeing in HDTV and ended up realizing, after watching more of my "high quality" DVDs that I was seeing the noise problem there as well. The rest of the DVD image was so good on my "problem" DVDs that I just didn't see it yesterday. But I know how good my "high quality" DVDs can look, and the noise stood out too much to be ignored.


It has proven to be pretty intractable to adjust out using only the D2's controls. The best I've come up with is a dramatic reduction of Contrast on the 59avi input setting in the D2 (from 47 yesterday to 33 last night) and a modest increase of Brightness (from 46 yesterday to 48 last night). The interaction between these two controls is such that the lowest black level that's now visible is about 10 IRE, even on an otherwise completely Black screen.


So I'm crushing blacks between 7.5 IRE and 10 IRE. Peak Whites on the other hand, look fine. From the standpoint of Avia Pro's moving black bars test screens, even when looking at the otherwise all black screen so that the "floating blacks" effect has no impact, only the brightest moving bar is visible, and that one just barely so in a dark room. Any setting that shows the brightest bar more clearly, or even a hint of the less bright moving bar leaves way to much noise in the imagery.


The upside is that these settings SEEM to eliminate the noise in both DVD and HDTV.


Tonight I'm going to try a different tack.


Since I have no light sensor to measure the gray scales coming from the D2's own test charts, and since I know the settings I'm using for the 59avi have been measured by others with digital signal sampling equipment to put out correct digital levels (e.g., DVD content luminence values of 1-254 actually come out of the 59avi HDMI that way as well using these settings at 480i), I'm going to assume instead that the "default" settings for the Fujitsu are in fact incorrect as a baseline for best reproducing the signal coming from the D2.


Instead, I'll set the Fujitsu to the best settings I have from when I had the 59avi directly connected to the Fujitsu at 480p. Assuming (a big assumption here) the Fujitsu's gray scale processing is the same between the 480p I used then from the 59avi and the 1360 x 768p I'm using now from the D2 then that should be a better baseline. I'll check by eye to see if the D2's internal test ramps look reasonable.


My hope is that by starting with "better" baseline values on the display, whatever interaction I'm seeing as noise between the D2 and the Fujitsu will be eliminated and I can concentrate on setting black levels properly without having to crush them.


Then I'll readjust the 59avi input on the D2 as necessary from there. My expectation would be that the D2's input settings done this way should be a lot closer to the default 50/50.


More later....


---------------------------------------------------------------------------


EDITED TO ADD: On a more positive note, I ran the HQV test DVD last night and the D2 handled it exceptionally well. The 59avi is no slouch as a deinterlacing player (and an upscaling player for that matter), but the D2's deinterlacing really is markedly superior to what the 59avi can do on its own. Yay!


Also I've now had enough useage of V1.06 to feel comfortable the V1.00 HDMI connection problems really are fixed at least as regards my equipment.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So no problems then. Umr is one of the best. Did he create different custom RCP settings to match rec 601 and rec 709?
> 
> 
> The only problem is that your video chain has changed, so you should ask Umr to come back and do a little "touch up". Changing the player and adding a scaler will need minor calibration again.
> 
> 
> Or you should ask him to come tweak everything when you will buy your HD-DVD player soon...



Hello...


I am a new proud owner of the D2 and P5! Do you know of a good ISF guy or gal in the Denver Colorado area. I would like to have my infocus 7205 calibrated...


Thanks


-bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The PQ will be improved, but it also depends alot on your display capabilities... Is it accepting 1080p? Is it 720p? Can it accept 1:1 and bypass it's internal video processing? It's a video chain, so it's a little bit tough to know without more details on your set-up.
> 
> 
> Almost all the 720p displays and projector out there are doing 1080i to 540p then 720p. The D2 is bringing evrything up to 1080p then downscale to the resolution you want, so you don't loose any resolution because of vertical interpolations.
> 
> 
> In my case, the D2 processing is superior to the one in my Sony Ruby. 1080i to 1080p is sharper, cleaner, with less noise and artifacts.




Levesque,


Any idea if the IFOCUS sp7205 dlp projector will accept 1:1 and bypass its internal video processing?


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Phil,
> 
> 
> It is hard to tell who was at fault in every case, but I suspect both were depending on the options chosen. I just wanted to give folks a heads up that choosing the proper format can be tricky. Level problems were also not the only ones encountered. Converting formats caused problems with scaling as well.



UMR....can you rec. a calibrator in Denver CO?


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> nkb, thanks for the response. I considered the Marantz a while ago but in all honestly I can't justify the cost at this point. In reality I am looking for a decent 480i/HDMI equipped player to get me by until there are more HD disc options. I am hoping to see a universal player however if not I will make a decision one way, the other or both.
> 
> 
> I have the Denon 3910 which I am really happy with other than the fact it won't do 480i/HDMI. It's 720p output to my Sony HS51a front projector is really quite decent. I just believe that the scaling/deinterlacing in the Gennum is better.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,




I too am looking for a good (compatable d2) DVD player (with SACD and DVD audio) that will pass a 480i signla through HDMI. Any suggestions other than the Oppo?


I recently purchased a DENON 1920 for around $300. To my knowledge, the player will not pass a 480i signal throught it's hdmi output. I have about five days left in my 30 day return policy and would like to return the player and purchase a replacement.


Any suggestions?


----------



## nkb

Quick recap (I won't go all the way back to the beginning):


1. Had HDMI working between my D2 and Fujitsu plasma. Then it quit working for some reason. I noted no message "Certifying HDMI" anymore. Nick at Anthem felt that it was a bad HDMI jack on the D2, so it called for a replacement.


2. Replacement D2 showed up today(3rd unit). However, same problem no HDMI video output to the Fujitsu. Component works fine (as in prior unit). Note I also replaced the HDMI cable.


3. Take the same HDMI cable being used from the D2 to the plasma and try it directly from the DVD to the plasma:


Message: "Certifying HDMI", picture OK


4. Take the same HDMI cable and try it directly from the SAT receiver to the plasma. Message "Certifying HDMI", picture OK.


5 I have tried turning everything off (unplugging as well, no standby) and turning things on in different sequence. No luck.


6. I have disconnected all other HDMI inputs, so just the HDMI video out, no inputs, and try to get the setup screen. Nothing


I am at my wits end. On my 3rd D2 and I still can't get HDMI video out to work (although it did work for a short while with #2 D2 after v1.04 upgrade).


Note: new D2 came with V1.04. After no luck with HDMI out, upgraded to V1.06, but no change for this problem.


It's Friday, and I will send an email to Nick at Anthem but won't hear anything until Monday, at this point.


Anybody got any ideas of what else to try? What is maddening is that I saw the HDMI work (for one day) with the prior D2 unit, so I know it CAN work. A grand mystery.....




Thanks.

.


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anybody got any ideas of what else to try



Try a 4th D2!


R


----------



## umr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> UMR....can you rec. a calibrator in Denver CO?



I will be in Denver for CEDIA. Just drop me an email at [email protected] and we can discuss your needs.


----------



## stieger

I'm getting my AVM50 next week, but had a quick question:


Will it scale an s-video signal from a TIVO to 1080 if the AVM outputs HDMI to my projector?


I'm just trying to figure out what video inputs it actually scales to 1080...


Thx,


stieger


----------



## whitewolf1

Yes! The AVM50 has the ability to upconvert and deinterlace all video signals and output them via hdmi up to 1080p. I observed an svideo signal upconvert to 720p to a plasma and the picture looked like a typical hidef 720p picture. I was impressed!

DJ


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stieger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm getting my AVM50 next week, but had a quick question:
> 
> 
> Will it scale an s-video signal from a TIVO to 1080 if the AVM outputs HDMI to my projector?
> 
> 
> I'm just trying to figure out what video inputs it actually scales to 1080...
> 
> 
> Thx,
> 
> 
> stieger



Yes,

It has an scaling option for S-Video

This setting is located in input settings


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody got any ideas of what else to try? What is maddening is that I saw the HDMI work (for one day) with the prior D2 unit, so I know it CAN work. A grand mystery.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> .



Turn your D2 off

Unplug all HDMI inputs

Turn you D2 back on

See if you can access your manu through HDMI on Fujitsu

Make sure no inputs are connected and only one cable is connected from HDMI out from D2

Did you try different display?

D2 may not be handshaking with your Fujitsu

If you are getting 4th D2 I think you should really consider using a professional installer(this is Just a suggestion, so don't take it personal)

Maybe you could "borrow" an HDMI projector from BB or Costco for a Day and see if your D2 works with them

Did you try to test the D2 in the store where you bought it from???

Hope this helps,

Maybe one of the members can help you if you would let us know what Town you are from

Sorry I couldn't help more

Matt


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I too am looking for a good (compatable d2) DVD player (with SACD and DVD audio) that will pass a 480i signla through HDMI. Any suggestions other than the Oppo?
> 
> 
> I recently purchased a DENON 1920 for around $300. To my knowledge, the player will not pass a 480i signal throught it's hdmi output. I have about five days left in my 30 day return policy and would like to return the player and purchase a replacement.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?



Here are some choices


Pioneer Elite 79avi

Pioneer Elite 59avi

Sony DVP-NS975V

Arcam DV79

Marantz DV9600

Classe CDP-300

SigmaTek XMB-510

LG LDA-511

LG DVX9900H

Pio DV490-V


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anybody got any ideas of what else to try? What is maddening is that I saw the HDMI work (for one day) with the prior D2 unit, so I know it CAN work. A grand mystery.....
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> .



Given that this is the 3rd D2, it's hard to believe you're having such bad luck. Maybe it isn't merely the D2 that's an issue (i.e. doesn't seem to be bad hardware) but maybe the interaction between the D2 and your Fujitsu. I suggest trying another display just to rule out a bad HDMI-out hardware. Alternatively, take your D2 to your dealer, and hook it up to one of their (non-Fujitsu) HDMI displays via HDMI. It will be very interesting if the D2 actually works.




I assume that there's nothing that all 3 D2s underwent that may be causing the problem. For example, plugging/unplugging HDMI cables while the D2 or other component is on, or placing the D2 in an area that's not well ventilated, or other condition/action that was done on all 3 D2s (like a non-cautious delivery guy....). It just seems to weird and coincidental and back luck that you have had problems with 3 D2s.


----------



## nkb

In response to the posts to my "plea" for help on HDMI problems:


a. There is no issue regarding ventilation. The unit is sittinng out in the open and running relatively cool. It is inherently not a cool unit.

b. Everything was switched off during cabling operations. I note that HDMI is supposed to be a "hot" cable specification such that you do not have to power off everything (which I did anyway).

c. I already tried no HDMI inputs, just the HDMI output hooked up.

d. Clearly there is a handshaking problem between the D2 and the Fujitsu. Not present with the DirecTV sat receiver or the Marantz DV9600 player.

e. The D2 was plugged into ONCE, not multiple times. It did not produce a picture. The same cable was then used directly with the SAT and DVD and was fine.



There is something going on here that is not allowing the handshaking between the D2 and the Fujitsu. I don't think this a "hardware" problem of a damaged jack or faulty cable at this point. I don't pretend to understand the vagaries of HDMI. I did a quick search on the Net and this kind of problem is not unheard of with HDMI. But, I didn't find a solution either.


I now vaguely recall that I received a message about having a "non-compliant HDCP" device at one point - even though things had been working. As far as the D2 is concerned this seems to be now "established" - no messages, just nothing. On the other hand, other devices are happy to handshake with the plasma. I am grasping at straws: is there some way to "reboot" the Fujitsu so that it starts to handshake again with the D2? I get no message of "Certifying HDMI".


From an article on HDMI:


"The handshake has two goals. First, it lets each device confirm that the other device is an authorized HDCP device. Second, it lets the two devices agree on a secret encryption key which only those two devices know. Subsequent communication over the cable is encrypted using that key, so that eavesdroppers can't get their hands on any content that is distributed."


I need to get these devices handshaking again. Right now, things are shut down as if there has been an uncertified communication and nothing further will ever be allowed.


Since the Fujitsu works with two other mainstream devices (DirecTv H20, Marantz DV9600) I am guessing the only thing that is going to fix this is a firmware fix from Anthem.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am at my wits end. On my 3rd D2 and I still can't get HDMI video out to work (although it did work for a short while with #2 D2 after v1.04 upgrade).



Go to your input setups and see if each device is set for HDMI repeater off, if not make it so.


Have you tried FW 1.03 Beta? Do you have a copy? Are you sure the D2s you are getting from Anthem are new?


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Go to your input setups and see if each device is set for HDMI repeater off, if not make it so.



I Agree with Jerry, But have to add :

You have to try different display.

Can you take your D2 back to the dealer and let them have a look at it?

I'm really surprice you didn't try your 3rd D2 at the dealer before you took it home, that is a nust when you get your next unit


----------



## LEVESQUE

nkb


Did you try installing a small display with the S-video out connection of the D2 to it? That's what I'm doing, and it's alot easier to play with the all the options in the D2 and in my display. HDMI to Ruby, but S-video out to a small LCD display at my sitting place. So if I choose and option that makes everything crash (like a Ruby non-supported resolution...), then I use the LCD display over S-video to make the change in the menus, and get everything working again. Alot easier.


What resolution out of the D2 are you using? Could you give us all your settings in the D2 in details (source set-up, video output set-up, etc)? Did you try another HDMI display?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nkb,

Which series of Fujitsu plasma are you using?


Since you are connecting HDMI to HDMI from the D2 it must be a 40 series or newer.


I'm using a Fujitsu P50, 30 series which has an HDCP compliant DVI input instead of an HDMI input and I've had no problems making that connection work, although it took the V1.06 D2 software to make the connection stable.


The Fujitsu 30 series has a menu item for setting options on the inputs. For example, you need to set the DVI input to "DVI2" mode instead of "DVI1" in order to tell that Fujitsu to expect "Studio RGB" as from a home theater set top box or something like the D2. Otherwise it expects the type of digital RGB coding used by typical computer graphics cards.


Check for a similar menu item in your Fujitsu and compare against the manual to see if there are any changes that might help.


One possibility is that the Fujitsu is set to demand RGB but is actually seeing YPbPr from the D2 or vice versa. A mismatch of YPbPr 4:2:2 vs. 4:4:4, or even a mismatch of encoding bit depth is also possible. Usually source and destination devices are set to allow a variety of choices here, and so a match will be found automatically during the handshake. But if the D2 is set to force one style of output and the Fujitsu is set to demand a different style as input, then the HDMI connection will not complete. Your other source devices, on the other hand, may be set to switch automatically to whatever the Fujitsu demands. If that's the case then the workaround is to adjust the D2 and Fujitsu settings to match.


Another possibility is to try different output resolutions from the D2. Perhaps the timing is off just enough in the resolution you are trying to use that the Fujitsu doesn't see a signal it can handle so it never even TRIES to complete the HDMI/HDCP handshake. Keep it simple and do your testing at 720x480p for now.


For the handshake to complete the source and destination must be HDCP compliant (not likely the problem in your case) and the source and destination must reach agreement on resolution and data encoding. The destination must see a resolution that it knows how to handle. The source queries the destination as to what it is willing to accept as encoding (given its current user settings) and then the source sees if it can do that, given ITS current user settings. If the user settings restrict either end so much as to prevent agreement, then you get no connection.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Using the D2 in its default HDMI configuration and the Fujitsu in ITS default HDMI configuration this really shouldn't be this tough.


So I've got to ask one other question -- please don't be offended: Are you sure you have the output HDMI cable from the D2 actually plugged into the D2's HDMI output socket and not into one of it's input sockets? Does your Fujitsu have an HDMI output socket for some sort of pass through? If so, are you sure you have the HDMI cable from the D2 plugged into the Fujitsu's input socket?


Another possibility is bad seating of the HDMI plug in its socket at either or both ends. Try this: With a friend to help, have him grasp the HDMI plugged into the D2 and have him hold it in place, pressing firmly straight into the socket, while you see if you can get a connection. Don't pull it out and re-insert it, just hold it firmly inserted making sure the plug is going straight in and is not drooping or being pulled to either side. Now do the same thing at the Fujitsu end. These HDMI connectors need to be fully inserted and it is often the case that connection problems are simply due to the plug being slightly offset in the jack. The plug is just a friction fit -- no locking mechanism -- so it is easy for it to become mis-seated if you slide equipment around after inserting it for example. People who buy fancy HDMI cables with heavy wire also frequently find that just the weight of the wire is enough to mis-seat the plug in the jack so that there is no connection.


You may need to support the weight of the cable at the Fujitsu end to keep the plug properly seated in the jack.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

OK had my D2 for two days and thought I would post some quick first impressions.


Everyone has said it but I'll repeat it, this thing runs hot, which concerns me from a reliability perspective. My rack is open both front/back and top/bottom so the heat does dissipate but I'm still thinking of adding a fan.


Display is a CRT PJ with a DVI interface. So no native rate to worry about. Sources are all HDMI, Sci-Atl 8300HD-DVR, Toshiba HD DVD, Pioneer Elite 79AVi. Had some lock ups the first night getting things set up but watched two movies last night without incident. I also flashed the 1.06 firmware shortly after hooking things up and verifying initial operation.


Anthem goes out of their way to warn about the HDMI connectors. Personally I believe this to be a design flaw. This is the first device I have encountered where the HDMI individual jacks do not have a small screw above them to keep them secure. Rigid jacks may have gone a long way towards remedying a lot of the problems encountered with these connectors.


Video for the most part looks pretty good, although I think I've lost some black detail. Not sure if it is just a cal issue or a setting somewhere. It may be crushing the blacks but I haven't checked yet. I don't think the 480i out of the Pioneer to the Gennum is quite as good as my HDLeeza/SDI DVD. But this may be a cal issue also.


I had a few HDMI audio stutters on all three sources but it is very intermittent, maybe once or twice during a movie. Overall sound quality is very good. I briefly tried out a DVD-A but I don't think it is being mapped properly, I will have to revisit this later.


Video Bypass doesn't work as I had envisioned it. I would like to be able to bypass the scaler and change the output resolution. My HD-DVR outputs 1080i/720P/480i depending on the channel selected. I would like the processor to actually change resolution to the corresponding input resolution when it encounters 720P or 1080i since they are both native to my display. I know this is counter to most displays but I wonder if I could somehow work around this. I think the answer may be discrete remote codes for some of the more common video settings such as a resolution change button. Maybe this is possible I have a lot more reading of the manual to do.


All in all I'm pretty satisfied for now. I was pleasantly surprised that the cable box works as well as it does. I have a lot more to explore and will try to update as I come across other issues and become more familiar with the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Cautiously optimistic saga.....


Well I think I'm finally on the right course to a proper calibration solution!


I had previously reported that my Fujitsu's default settings (all 0's) looked fine as regards the D2's internal test ramps. But that's just by eye as I have no light sensor to measure these ramps. However using the Fujitsu defaults and attempting to calibrate the sources using only the D2's input adjustments proved fruitless.


So last night I switched the Fujitsu to the best settings I've found given an HDMI to DVI connection directly from my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD player at 480p. Those Fujitsu settings are:


Fujitsu Contrast -8

Fujitsu Brightness +12

Fujitsu Color +2

Fujitsu Tint +6

Fujitsu Sharpness -4 (actually -8 at 480p, but the Fujitsu limits the range to -4 at 1360x768P resolution)


By eye the D2's ramps still looked good, which just goes to show that by eye is not the way to do this stuff. The D2's SMPTE color chart was now spot on when viewed through the color filters. Again, these Fujitsu numbers were achieved by using Avia Pro on the 59avi connected DIRECTLY to the Fujitsu. Using these Fujitsu numbers without further alteration, the D2's internal color charts APPEAR to be correct. So that's my new baseline for the D2 talking to the Fujitsu.


Next I tried setting the D2's input settings for the 59avi to the D2's default (50) values. This proved to be too bright and contrasty.


So leaving the Fujitsu settings as above, I finished calibrating using the D2's input settings for the 59avi. The color and tint settings of 50/50 were just fine as is -- a good thing since they have no effect in the V 1.06 software.


Going through the usual stuff for Brightness and Contrast, the first thing that stood out was THE FLOATING BLACKS ISSUE WAS GONE! I have no idea why setting the Fujitsu as above would eliminate this. Clearly there is some sort of clipping or crushing going on when I have the D2 talk to the Fujitsu at the Fujitsu's default (0) settings. But with the Fujitsu set to the new baseline as above, I can set the moving black bars and have those same bars remain visible -- to precisely the same degree -- on a screen that is otherwise all black, or almost all white.


There was still some dithering noise in low IRE gray panels, but certainly not as severe as my first try under V1.00, and even improved somewhat over yesterday's try with V1.06.


The final settings for the 59avi input on the D2 were:


D2 Contrast 45

D2 Brightness 38


The combo is interesting I think. I lowered Contrast on the 59avi input and lowered it AGAIN in the plasma. I lowered Brightness on the 59avi input and RAISED it in the plasma.


And the resulting image quality was, dare I say it, spectacular on both my "problem" and my "high quality" DVDs. I still need more viewing time and may tweak these settings a bit more, but the intractable low level noise problem I was fighting now seems to be eliminated, or very very nearly so. Yay!


I then copied the D2 Contrast and Brightness settings over to the input for my Comcast HD/DVR and they seem to work just fine there as well! The grainy noise I was seeing in HDTV appears gone!


So I'm finally seeing the kind of imagery from this beast which it really should be capable of producing, and, for now at least, I'm quite pleased.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------


The moral of this story is that you really do have to calibrate the display to the D2 separately FIRST, and then worry about calibrating your source devices into the D2. If you have a light sensor, you could use the D2's internal test charts to calibrate your display, but doing it by eye alone is not likely to be optimal.


Or you can do as I did and get a good DVD player which you can leave at known (default) settings for digital video output and use it with a tool like Avia Pro to calibrate your display's level settings. Then use those settings, unchanged, when hooked up to the D2.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------


A suggestion when playing around like this: Take another input, AUX for example, and temporarily configure it in the D2's Settings menu to use the same audio and video connections as your DVD player.


Now you can use different D2 input settings in DVD and in AUX and switch back and forth between them for A/B comparison.


If you don't need all the D2's input configurations for separate sources you could even leave it this way permanently and then have, say different input settings for Day and Night -- one under DVD and the other under AUX for example. And thus you'd maintain the same baseline setting on the display for how the D2 talks to the display. This is an alternative to keeping the same D2 source input settings and using different DISPLAY settings for day/night. Which works better for you will depend on your equipment.

--Bob


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Video Bypass doesn't work as I had envisioned it. I would like to be able to bypass the scaler and change the output resolution. My HD-DVR outputs 1080i/720P/480i depending on the channel selected. I would like the processor to actually change resolution to the corresponding input resolution when it encounters 720P or 1080i since they are both native to my display. I know this is counter to most displays but I wonder if I could somehow work around this. I think the answer may be discrete remote codes for some of the more common video settings such as a resolution change button. Maybe this is possible I have a lot more reading of the manual to do.



Basically, your display, assuming it's digital, has a fixed set of pixels, and the number of pixels it has dictates what its native rate is. A display can't have two native rates (unless your display has two physical "chips"... if so, that would be quite a display!). Just because your display supports both 720p and 1080i as input doesn't mean they are both "native" to your display. It just means that your display, when fed its non-native rate will just convert it to its native rate. Theoretically, the D2 would do a better job doing the conversion than the display.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

randman,

Obie-FL is using a CRT based projector. That's an analog system, not a fixed pixel count digital system. Any rate it can sync to will be it's "native" rate.

--Bob


----------



## Max Spivak

nkb,


You've probably tried this, but I'll mention it anyway. I found one way to force an hdcp handshake from D2 is to switch its output resolution. Last night, for whatever reason, it refused to handshake with my jvc dila projector. D2 output resolution was set to 720p. The screen was black.


So I set it to 1080i, which forced the handshake and got the display going and then switched it back to 720. Presto! (And still a pain in the ass! I wish I understood vagarities of hdcp. Why sometimes it just works, and sometimes I need to jump through hoops.)


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Go to your input setups and see if each device is set for HDMI repeater off, if not make it so.
> 
> 
> Have you tried FW 1.03 Beta? Do you have a copy? Are you sure the D2s you are getting from Anthem are new?



The inputs are not even relevant to my problem. I should be able to get the setup screen without any inputs. But, I have also tried video out with video in from the DVD and SAT player. Do not work.


If I can't even get the setup screen, the problem is fundamental to the HDMI video out I would think.


The unit came installed with V1.04. I also upgraded to V1.06. I had found that V1.04 had cured my HDMI problems (until the HDMI video out quit altogether and I requested another replacement unit).


I have checked the various serial numbers:


#1 : .....747

#2 : .....502 (or thereabouts)

#3: .....1206


So it looked like #2 was older than #1 but #3 is definitely newer. I don't know however if this is remanufactured unit. I would presume not.


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I Agree with Jerry, But have to add :
> 
> You have to try different display.
> 
> Can you take your D2 back to the dealer and let them have a look at it?
> 
> I'm really surprice you didn't try your 3rd D2 at the dealer before you took it home, that is a nust when you get your next unit



I don't have another HDMI display in the house. I will have to trek back to the dealer to test this.


I picked up the D2 at the Dealer's offices but not showroom so no equipment to test with. The showroom is another 30 minutes away ... I was optimistic that the new D2 was going to work... it will now take additional trips and more time.


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> nkb
> 
> 
> Did you try installing a small display with the S-video out connection of the D2 to it? That's what I'm doing, and it's alot easier to play with the all the options in the D2 and in my display. HDMI to Ruby, but S-video out to a small LCD display at my sitting place. So if I choose and option that makes everything crash (like a Ruby non-supported resolution...), then I use the LCD display over S-video to make the change in the menus, and get everything working again. Alot easier.
> 
> 
> What resolution out of the D2 are you using? Could you give us all your settings in the D2 in details (source set-up, video output set-up, etc)? Did you try another HDMI display?



The fujitsu has multiple inputs. So I also have component sent to Fujitsu, so it is easy to view the OSD. Also, the front of the D2 also displays the setup info so there is not a problem of suddenly "going blind" and not being able to modify setup.


I have used 1080i and 720p out of the D2.


Don't have another HDMI display. Will have to go back to the dealer to test that.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> randman,
> 
> Obie-FL is using a CRT based projector. That's an analog system, not a fixed pixel count digital system. Any rate it can sync to will be it's "native" rate.
> 
> --Bob



That is correct and why I put native in quotes.










Someone earlier was talking about getting the settings correct for their cable box. The only way I have been able to get the proper ratio for 480i, 720P and 1080i is to set Crop Input - HDMI Auto and Scale Output - Anamorphic Stretch. This is the only combination I've found that doesn't double pillar box the 480i or distort/zoom the HDTV signals. Got my blacks a lot better today playing with the brightness and contrast settings.


So I think I have the cable DVR pretty well tweaked in. Now I need to get the HD DVD and SDVD players calibrated.


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> nkb,
> 
> Which series of Fujitsu plasma are you using?
> 
> 
> Since you are connecting HDMI to HDMI from the D2 it must be a 40 series or newer.
> 
> 
> I'm using a Fujitsu P50, 30 series which has an HDCP compliant DVI input instead of an HDMI input and I've had no problems making that connection work, although it took the V1.06 D2 software to make the connection stable.
> 
> 
> The Fujitsu 30 series has a menu item for setting options on the inputs. For example, you need to set the DVI input to "DVI2" mode instead of "DVI1" in order to tell that Fujitsu to expect "Studio RGB" as from a home theater set top box or something like the D2. Otherwise it expects the type of digital RGB coding used by typical computer graphics cards.
> 
> 
> Check for a similar menu item in your Fujitsu and compare against the manual to see if there are any changes that might help.
> 
> 
> One possibility is that the Fujitsu is set to demand RGB but is actually seeing YPbPr from the D2 or vice versa. A mismatch of YPbPr 4:2:2 vs. 4:4:4, or even a mismatch of encoding bit depth is also possible. Usually source and destination devices are set to allow a variety of choices here, and so a match will be found automatically during the handshake. But if the D2 is set to force one style of output and the Fujitsu is set to demand a different style as input, then the HDMI connection will not complete. Your other source devices, on the other hand, may be set to switch automatically to whatever the Fujitsu demands. If that's the case then the workaround is to adjust the D2 and Fujitsu settings to match.
> 
> 
> Another possibility is to try different output resolutions from the D2. Perhaps the timing is off just enough in the resolution you are trying to use that the Fujitsu doesn't see a signal it can handle so it never even TRIES to complete the HDMI/HDCP handshake. Keep it simple and do your testing at 720x480p for now.
> 
> 
> For the handshake to complete the source and destination must be HDCP compliant (not likely the problem in your case) and the source and destination must reach agreement on resolution and data encoding. The destination must see a resolution that it knows how to handle. The source queries the destination as to what it is willing to accept as encoding (given its current user settings) and then the source sees if it can do that, given ITS current user settings. If the user settings restrict either end so much as to prevent agreement, then you get no connection.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Using the D2 in its default HDMI configuration and the Fujitsu in ITS default HDMI configuration this really shouldn't be this tough.
> 
> 
> So I've got to ask one other question -- please don't be offended: Are you sure you have the output HDMI cable from the D2 actually plugged into the D2's HDMI output socket and not into one of it's input sockets? Does your Fujitsu have an HDMI output socket for some sort of pass through? If so, are you sure you have the HDMI cable from the D2 plugged into the Fujitsu's input socket?
> 
> 
> Another possibility is bad seating of the HDMI plug in its socket at either or both ends. Try this: With a friend to help, have him grasp the HDMI plugged into the D2 and have him hold it in place, pressing firmly straight into the socket, while you see if you can get a connection. Don't pull it out and re-insert it, just hold it firmly inserted making sure the plug is going straight in and is not drooping or being pulled to either side. Now do the same thing at the Fujitsu end. These HDMI connectors need to be fully inserted and it is often the case that connection problems are simply due to the plug being slightly offset in the jack. The plug is just a friction fit -- no locking mechanism -- so it is easy for it to become mis-seated if you slide equipment around after inserting it for example. People who buy fancy HDMI cables with heavy wire also frequently find that just the weight of the wire is enough to mis-seat the plug in the jack so that there is no connection.
> 
> 
> You may need to support the weight of the cable at the Fujitsu end to keep the plug properly seated in the jack.
> 
> --Bob



The Fujitsu is the P50XTA51UB (black frame), just released.


The HDMI input works fine from SAT or DVD (HDMI to HDMI). This using the same cable that I am trying from the D2 to the plasma. In fact, I don't change the plasma input side I just hook it up to three different sources (D2, SAT, DVD) individually to test. "Certifying HDMI" appears for the SAT and DVD, but not the D2.


No, I am not offended, but the D2 is hooked up at Video OUT (not IN).


The D2 HDMI jack has a lot of free play. I have (carefully) held the D2 HDMI cable connection in place while observing if anything happens. Nothing happens.


I have set the D2 Video out resolution to 1080i, 720p, 480p all with the same result: Nothing. No handshake.


______________


Just now:



One can visually inspect the HDMI jacks/plugs. I hate to say it but the Video out looks damaged. So the one insertion was bad enough to kill it.


I was originally using a Ram electronics HDMI cable and that apparently got damaged or caused damage. Replaced it with a Radio Shack HDMI cable (could get locally). This now appears to me to be damaged as well. It looks like a "spreading infection" once I had a bad jack or cable in the system it would manage to wreck whatever it touched.


However, I inspected the HDMI jacks on my SAT and DVD and they seem just fine. They also appear to be more robustly designed than the ones on the Anthem.


1. It looks like I need another D2 video out jack. Unfortunately, Anthem told me I had to pay next time.


2. Throw away all my existing HDMI cables and replace.


3. In the future, before using any HDMI cable/jack inspect it carefully for any anomalies. Just because a cable works in one configuration does not mean that it is OK. This is what I have experienced. Cable between the Fujitsu and SAT, Fujitsu and DVD, was OK. However, this same cable appears to have damaged the new D2 jack (the damage most likely having been inflicted on the cable by the previous D2).


4. The tolerances on the HDMI jacks must not be the same. They feel differently and they (obviously) do not have the same robustness of design/manufacture. I really think Anthem needs to review its supplier for the D2 HDMI jacks. The ones on my Marantz and SAT look better made.


I am not a "ham-fisted" consumer. I'm a physicist, software engineer, and have regularly delved into the guts of computer hardware. If I am getting "bit" like this I can only imagine what is in store for the average consumer. That, or perhaps the D2 jacks, as I have noted are sub-standard.


In Anthem's own words:


"These connections are evidently too delicate for the real world, but there's not much we can do about it except put a warning both in the manual and right on the HDMI jacks on the rear panel in such a way that it's impossible to ignore.


Now that defective units have returned and we can diagnose them, it turns out in several cases that a shorted or otherwise mechanically-damaged HDMI jack or jacks is very simply the problem."


----------



## randman

Prior to upgrading my D2 to v1.06, the HDMI & component outputs were working. I connected my D2 and PC using a Windows WHQL-certified serial/USB adapter. I confirmed they were connected okay by retrieving and uploading settings to/from my PC. When I ran the v1.06 installer, things were working fine for about 20 minutes, then I got the message: "FPGA configurator programming failed". After that, my HDMI & component outputs stopped working. I can no longer enter the Video menu (button 7). I tried all sorts of permutations (particularly in menu 8), and no luck. Applying v1.04 and v1.00 also resulted in "FPGA configurator programming failed". So, now, HDMI & component out don't work. Plus, the S-Video output flickers every 1 to 2 seconds now. Anyone had this problem?


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't have another HDMI display in the house. I will have to trek back to the dealer to test this.
> 
> 
> I picked up the D2 at the Dealer's offices but not showroom so no equipment to test with. The showroom is another 30 minutes away ... I was optimistic that the new D2 was going to work... it will now take additional trips and more time.



When your next D2 comes asked them to set it up in the show room and drive extra 30 min

also bring your new cables with you, so they could test them for you

I'm sorry to hear about your Jack

Order new set of Blue Jeans Cables

Their jacks look really solid

Matt


----------



## obie_fl

Next time you talk to Anthem ask why this problem seems to be much more prevalent on the D2. As I said earlier every HDMI device I own and most I've seen in other places have a screw holding the jack above it. I can't help but believe this is a design flaw on Anthem's part.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For some reason the new V1.06 software disables the Color and Hue input Video Source Adjustment / Picture settings for HDMI inputs. Shifting Color and Hue in the D2 to either end of their range has no effect whatsoever, whereas they worked just fine in V1.00. That means any color/hue adjustments have to be made either in the source device or at the display. I don't know if this is a new bug or if they decided it has to be this way for some reason.
> 
> --Bob



Bob. That point was really surprising to me. Since I'm using 1.06, I just went in my HT to try moving those (color and hue adjustments), and it was clearly working for me.


I never move those sliders since I'm already at the sweet spot, but color saturation was going down almost to black and white, and really oversaturated over 50. Same thing with hue that was working like it should.


Did you try re-installing the firmware 1.06? Also, you should always reset the D2 to factory defaults each time after upgrading the firmware, before re-loading your custom settings.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Prior to upgrading my D2 to v1.06, the HDMI & component outputs were working. I connected my D2 and PC using a Windows WHQL-certified serial/USB adapter. I confirmed they were connected okay by retrieving and uploading settings to/from my PC. When I ran the v1.06 installer, things were working fine for about 20 minutes, then I got the message: "FPGA configurator programming failed". After that, my HDMI & component outputs stopped working. I can no longer enter the Video menu (button 7). I tried all sorts of permutations (particularly in menu 8), and no luck. Applying v1.04 and v1.00 also resulted in "FPGA configurator programming failed". So, now, HDMI & component out don't work. Plus, the S-Video output flickers every 1 to 2 seconds now. Anyone had this problem?



Upgrade shouldn't take 20 min

Did your computers screen saver came on

If yes this may cause interruption of the software upgrade


----------



## nkb

I have carefully compared the HDMI jacks on the D2 and my Marantz DV9600.


The Marantz jack has "interference spring pins" on both the bottom and top of the jack. These help to locate the cable end, minimizing free play, and also help to lock the cable in place.


The D2 jacks only have these "interference spring pins" on one side, not both. This leads to free play and a lack of guiding the cable end into position. More importantly, it also tends to "push" the cable end asymmetrically against the HDMI pin wafer. This uneven mechanical loading is just asking for trouble and I believe a major contributor to the multiple failures that have been experienced. (I might even offer Anthem to run an FEA analysis and demonstrate this to them). This uneven loading is borne out by the fact that the damage to the HDMI wafer pins are only on the underside exactly where the asymmetric loading is applied. The other side is undamaged. The Marantz jack is clearly of superior design and construction compared to ones used in the D2.


I think Anthem needs to revisit this issue. It is costing both them and us (the end user) by using what appear to be clearly sub-standard and poorly designed jacks. They have had numerous support issues and returned units just because of these failures.


In the meantime, if you haven't already been put on notice, inspect all of your cables and get rid of them if anything appears amiss. You might also inspect your existing HDMI jacks for any anomalies as well, as the problem WILL spread if not remedied. Remember a functioning cable does not mean it is necessarily OK. It may have damage that can spread.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Levesque,

I have not tried re-installing the V1.06 firmware. The original installation and verification of he V1.06 firmware worked just fine, so I'm not inclined to futz with it again until the next version comes out.


Today I set up daytime configurations along with my original darkened room configurations, and I verified again that NEITHER the D2's Color input setting nor its Hue (Tint) setting has any effect in my configuration. Both worked as expected with the original V1.00 software that came on my unit.


I can think of a few possible reasons why it would work for you and not for me. For example my display has only a DVI input, which means I have to send it RGB instead of YPbPr.


I'm sure this is just a new bug that will be simple for Anthem to fix.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Prior to upgrading my D2 to v1.06, the HDMI & component outputs were working. I connected my D2 and PC using a Windows WHQL-certified serial/USB adapter. I confirmed they were connected okay by retrieving and uploading settings to/from my PC. When I ran the v1.06 installer, things were working fine for about 20 minutes, then I got the message: "FPGA configurator programming failed". After that, my HDMI & component outputs stopped working. I can no longer enter the Video menu (button 7). I tried all sorts of permutations (particularly in menu 8), and no luck. Applying v1.04 and v1.00 also resulted in "FPGA configurator programming failed". So, now, HDMI & component out don't work. Plus, the S-Video output flickers every 1 to 2 seconds now. Anyone had this problem?



rand... are all of your HDMI components off when you try to upgrade.... if not they need to be.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

randman,

You should probably just try running the upgrade again. Programming non-volatile memory like this can be a bit tricky, which is why there is a verification pass to make sure it took.


But if this is the first time you've updated the firmware in your D2, it is also possible that there is a fault in the circuit that drives the re-programming of that particular component.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Saga sung way down low.....


I did a first pass at base configuration today. Things worked pretty much as expected.


I used the D2's one, built-in, parametric filter to squash a room resonance around 38 Hz, and split the subwoofer's D2 crossover setting from the crossover setting of the rest of the speakers to squash another room resonance in the range of roughly 75 to 95 Hz.


[All this is using a cheap sub that will be replaced soon.]


First listening tests are promising.


One gotcha to watch out for: The D2 has an LFE bypass option which, when set, runs the LFE data around the crossover network. This is useful if you set your sub's crossover below 80 Hz so that you don't lose LFE content above the crossover point (since the D2 does not steer such content to the main speakers).


But beware that if you turn on that option, you will not be able to use the standard test disks to measure room base response against your settings. That's because those disks send the test sounds out over the LFE channel (instead of to a main speaker), and thus if you have the D2's LFE bypass engaged, the crossover settings, for example, are ignored.

--Bob


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Upgrade shouldn't take 20 min
> 
> Did your computers screen saver came on
> 
> If yes this may cause interruption of the software upgrade



No, the screen saver did not go on (I increased it to a very large value before the upgrade). I attempted the upgrade 3 times, and it failed in the same spot each time (FPGA configurator problem). I then tried to revert to 1.04 and 1.00 and they failed on the same spot as well (FPGA configurator problem). All HDMI components were turned off during this time.


My PC is fairly new (January 2006, 3GHz Pentium D dual core). The upgrade fails in 20 minutes. The settings editor takes about 5 minutes to retrieve the settings from the D2. Is this normal? I figured maybe RS232 is just slow...


----------



## rudolpht

I believe the XP serial port default is 9600. Many issues result when not matched. It is awfully slow, but not 5 minutes slow.


A full upgrade takes about 20 mins with the 9600 setting.


Since some things are never truly off (only standby) when connected, suggest you disconnect the HDMI inputs and even output during upgrade, which you can monitor from the PC.


After it takes (I hope), reset to D2 factory defaults (can do from front panel).


Then load back in your user or installer settings (can also do from front panel).


Tim


----------



## LEVESQUE

If you have a "failed" message in any part of the installation progress of the firmware, just start it back again. Sometimes (not often), I get the "installation failed" message, and I just start it back again and it usually get through the 2nd time.


I always save my settings in the last menu of the D2, I then load factory defaults (reset), and then start the installation of the firmware. If I have the "installation failed" message, I just do it again until I have a confirmation message that it was done properly. After that, I always reload factory defaults (reset), and then reload my settings.


----------



## drmabuse

Hi Friends,

First of all I apologize if this particular problem has been addressed before - I have gone through the entire thread and have not seen it but everyone's set-up is different so I will ask...

I picked up my D2 on Friday (!!!) which now replaces my AVM20. First impressions are fantastic.

My problem is happening on the video side...

I currently have a 65" WS Toshiba HDTV (back projection/5 years old), Denon 3910 and HDTV receiver all plugged in through components with component out going to the Toshiba.

When I select Video Output at 1920x1080i/60 my picture varies wildly from TV to DVD interms of quality and positioning. I have gone into bypass mode and changed vertical/horizontal positioning but it is still less than adequate.

If I select output of 720x480p/60 my DVD looks better but my HDTV is crap.

Is there a solution here or should I just input my HDTV box into the direct component inputs in my TV set or am I missing something?

I plan on moving to a 1080p projector this Fall so whatever I do is short term but would appreciate any feedback someone might have.

This video switching stuff is very new to me...

Cheers and Thanks!

Wayne (DrMabuse)


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Prior to upgrading my D2 to v1.06, the HDMI & component outputs were working. I connected my D2 and PC using a Windows WHQL-certified serial/USB adapter. I confirmed they were connected okay by retrieving and uploading settings to/from my PC. When I ran the v1.06 installer, things were working fine for about 20 minutes, then I got the message: "FPGA configurator programming failed". After that, my HDMI & component outputs stopped working. I can no longer enter the Video menu (button 7). I tried all sorts of permutations (particularly in menu 8), and no luck. Applying v1.04 and v1.00 also resulted in "FPGA configurator programming failed". So, now, HDMI & component out don't work. Plus, the S-Video output flickers every 1 to 2 seconds now. Anyone had this problem?



Good news. Based on various folks' input (thanks), I did the following:


1. Restored D2's factory defaults prior to upgrading.

2. Ensured that my PC and D2's baud rate matched. Since the D2's factory

default is 19200, I set my PC to use that default as well.



Finally, I used my laptop, which has a built-in RS-232 port. The upgrade to v1.06 worked the first time!! It took about 8 minutes to get to the "FPGA" configuration area, and a total of about 14 minutes to complete the upgrade. When I was using my HTPC with the USB/Serial adapter, it was taking ~20 minutes to get to the "FPGA" configuration. I thought I made sure my HTPC and D2 had the same baud rate (I was using the highest available setting of the D2).


So, not sure why I was having trouble yesterday. Some theories:


1. The USB/Serial cable of my HTPC is good enough to save/restore settings but not good enough for firmware upgrades.


2. Maybe I should have used 19200 baud.


3. Maybe I should have restored D2 factory defaults before the upgrade.


4. My HTPC's audio is connected to my D2 with a digital optical cable. My HTPC's VGA out is connected directy to my projector. I know, HDMI sources are suppossed to be off, but my HTPC only uses a digital optical cable, so I figured it should be okay to be connected to the D2 while it is on.


Bottom line is that it works with my laptop. Now, HDMI and component out work. Video settings (menu 7) work. Not sure if I want to experiment some more with my HTPC. Anyone else have a Keyspan USB/Serial adapter that works okay for them?


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Levesque,

I have more info on the D2's Color and Hue controls under the V1.06 software.


I found out, to my surprise, that the Color and Hue controls ARE WORKING for my Comcast HDMI input. They are also working for the S-Video input from my Polk XM Radio receiver.


They are still NOT working for my 59avi HDMI input, even though they used to with the V1.00 software.


I suspect the difference is that the 59avi is sending HDMI 480i as RGB (confirmed in the D2's Info display under the "7" key for that input), whereas the Comcast box is sending either HDMI 480i or 1080i as YCbCr 4:4:4.


So it appears that Anthem has disabled Color and Hue input controls for HDMI RGB input only -- either by design or by mistake. Again, these controls WERE working with the V1.00 software for that style of input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Uh oh! HDCP failure saga!


Well just when I was starting to feel comfortable with this beast I've got a problem.


My Comcast box can't get an HDCP lock over HDMI! This is with D2 Repeater Off as before (Repeater ON has NEVER worked with this Comcast box). No cables have been touched, it just failed for no apparent reason when I tried to switch to Comcast after a couple hours of DVD watching this morning.


The Comcast box resets itself to 4:3 display at 480p when this happens.


The D2 Status display shows 480P input with an "NP" status, which I assume means no protection. The Info display under the "7" key shows DVI (Not HDMI!) input at 480p -- which I presume is the mode either the Comcast or the D2 reverts to when there is no HDCP lock.


Meanwhile my 59avi is now also having trouble initiating an HDCP lock. When it fails to lock, it's front panel, HDMI, blue light remains off, the D2 Status shows 480i input with the "NP" flag, and the D2's Info display shows DVI input. There is no image because the 59avi is set to put out 480i (which doesn't work over DVI). Power cycling the 59avi, and/or the Fujitsu, and/or the D2 does not change this.


HOWEVER. if I switch the D2 to the S-video input for the Polk XM receiver, and then back to the 59avi, the 59avi *CAN* get a proper HDCP lock (blue light ON in 59avi's front panel, D2 status shows 480i with a "CP" flag, and D2's Info shows HDMI RGB at 480i -- all correct). However it may take it 2 or 3 handshakes before it locks in. Once locked in it appears to stay locked in.


Through all of this the connection between the D2 and the Fujitsu display is without problem (HDMI 1360x768p).


Switching to the Polk XM and back to the Comcast box does NOT cure the Comcast problem however.


Switching to the Comcast (no lock) and then back to the 59avi puts things back in the state where the 59avi ALSO can not get a lock.


Switching output resolutions to the Fujitsu to force a re-handshake on that end also does not cure the problem.


The 59avi input is set for D2 Repeater YES. The Comcast input is set for D2 Repeater NO.


I'm at a loss.


I've just powered everything down and I'm going to let things cool off and see if that seems to help, although the open cabinet seems to be dissipating the heat OK.


--------------------------------------------------------------------


The Comcast box works fine if I set up its input to use Component YCbCr at 1080i and 480i. And I was already using a Digital Optical connection for audio to avoid the sound startup delay on changing channels as compared to audio going over HDMI.


But the D2 is intended to be my HDMI switching solution, and if that can't work reliably it will have to go.


I have another Comcast box, and if the cooling off doesn't seem to fix things I'll try swapping that one in.


I'll also try restoring factory settings and then my last Saved batch of user settings, which has been working fine, to see if that fixes things.

--Bob


=================================================


EDITED TO ADD:


I had the D2 and its three inputs disconnected from power for about half an hour.


When I powered back up the D2 the first thing I did was restore Factory Defaults and then Restore User Settings on top of that.


The combo seems to have fixed my problem. All switching and HDMI/HDCP handshake is working properly again. Deep sigh....


I don't know which of these steps (i.e., complete power disconnect, cool down period, or restoring Factory Defaults) did the trick here. If the problem recurs I'll try them one at a time.


I'm not surprised the Comcast/Motorola 3412 HD/DVR box was having problems. It's a known flakey piece of extremely shoddy engineering.


What bothered me was that the Comcast box's problems apparently left things in a state where the 59avi *ALSO* stopped working properly.


I suspect there may be some sort of counter for how many tries the D2 makes to establish HDCP, and once that's exceeded it doesn't get easily reset. Or some such.


In any event, I'll keep an eye out for future problems here. But if anyone has a hard failure re making HDMI connections work, before you go pulling cables, etc., try what I did: Disconnect from power, allow a cool down period, restore D2 Factory Defaults, and finally restore previously saved D2 User Settings. And be aware that problems with one source may leave things in a state where another source now ALSO can't connect properly.


CAUTION: I do NOT know if it is safe to Save User Settings *AFTER* such a problem shows up. If the problem is due to some sort of corruption of the user configuration tables, then Saving at that point might save the corrupted data as well. I suspect it is best to Save settings only when things are working well. If you are not sure things are working well remember that you have two memory spaces available to Save settings -- User Settings and Installer Settings. You can use one for your last apparently good configuration, and the other for a newer configuration that appears good (but not sure yet), and finally using the live (as yet unsaved) settings for current experiments.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Getting ready to try critical audio listening saga....


If, like me, you have a DVD player that you also use for playing audio discs, and if you don't want to have to leave your display powered on while playing audio discs, be aware that turning off the TV will make any HDMI connection from the player lose HDCP lock.


And most such players will disable ALL digital audio outputs, not just the HDMI digital audio output, if the HDMI is active (source and destination sockets both powered) but can't get HDCP lock. Typically the audio will go in and out as the player periodically retries to get an HDCP lock.


The work-around is to set up another D2 input, "CD" for example, with a digital optical or coax for audio and either None or a Component for video. Since the D2 is no longer sucking on the HDMI input straw when you switch to CD, the HDMI output of the player will completely shut down (just as if you had pulled the cable), and thus it will no longer be looking for an HDCP lock.


Another work-around would be to use 2 or 6 channel analog connections between player and D2, but if the D2's input is sucking on the HDMI socket, your player will continuously try and retry to establish HDCP lock if your display is actually off. This SHOULDN'T be a problem, but the flashing of the player's front panel lights might be distracting, and I'm not sure multiple failures to establish HDCP lock won't have other side effects.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque,
> 
> They are still NOT working for my 59avi HDMI input, even though they used to with the V1.00 software.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob - I'm running 480i HDMI/RGB out of my 79AVi with 1.06. I just checked and the hue and color are adjustable for me.


I have a difficult time getting the aspect ratio looking right though. I have Crop Input set to HDMI Auto and Scale Output to Anamorphic Stretch but it seems a little too tall and not quite centered on the screen. Menus and full screens fill the screen. I tried various other settings to no avail. What are people using for settings on their 480i inputs?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bottom line is that it works with my laptop. Now, HDMI and component out work. Video settings (menu 7) work. Not sure if I want to experiment some more with my HTPC. Anyone else have a Keyspan USB/Serial adapter that works okay for them?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Excellent


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Uh oh! HDCP failure saga!
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> The Comcast box works fine if I set up its input to use Component YCbCr at 1080i and 480i. And I was already using a Digital Optical connection for audio to avoid the sound startup delay on changing channels as compared to audio going over HDMI.
> 
> 
> But the D2 is intended to be my HDMI switching solution, and if that can't work reliably it will have to go.
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I can tell you are frustrated (understatement), but I don't think you can blame Anthem for the Moto box being crappy. After having so many problems with DVI on the Moto on a number of switches , I have to admit I didn't even try it on the Anthem. Call it preemptive frustration avoidance. So if something had to go, I would suggest the Moto.


The Component on mine works great I'm already using an external DVI switcher into one of the 4 HDMI inouts, so not using up an HDMI in port is a "bonus."


Tim


BTW I use the save profiles like you. Good known into Installer and "playing around" into USER, that way the Installer is an extra reset step, so I can see the output etc.


----------



## obie_fl

Ok I'm having trouble getting my Pioneer Elite 79AVi setup at 480i. I've tried numerous settings on both the player and the D2 but can't seem to get it to display the entire picture in the correct aspect ratio. I have the player at HDMI Direct and 16:9 (have also tried 4:3) and just about every combination of Crop Input and Scale Output. About the only way I can see the entire image unstreached is to bypass but that of course turns scaling off and I get a 480 pic in the middle of a 720P screen. This is really making me pull my hair out. I thought that the Sci-Atl 8300HD PVR would give me fits but it is working fine and it is the "simple" DVD player that is giving me heartburn.


Anyone with a 59AVi or 79AVi mind sharing settings with me? I've already figured out I needed to select component (12bit) to get blacker then black. RGB was not passing it on my system.


----------



## Nathan_R

Tom,


I'm using Auto-Detect on Crop Input and Anamorphic Stretch for the output. The Pioneer itself is set for 16x9.


----------



## obie_fl

That's what I use for my 8300HD DVR but for some reason it was messing up with the Pioneer. I'll start fresh tonght. Thanks Nathan.


----------



## DrJRapp

Try using a different HDMI input...ie: I use my Oppo on Aux and HDMI 3.


----------



## Nathan_R

Tom,

For what it's worth, after I posted my reply, I saw your initial post about Auto-Detect and Anamorphic output yielding tall images, off-center. I haven't seen that with my AVM-50.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

obie_fl,

If the 79avi's menu structure is the same as in the 59avi, the most likely problem is that you are setting 16:9 mode IN THE WRONG PLACE.


In the 59avi, the Initial Settings / Video Output menu has an obvious place to change this, but a change in that menu *ONLY* affects analog video output. To make the setting for HDMI video output you need to go to an entirely different menu hidden elsewhere: Initial Settings / Options / HDMI Settings.


For the 59avi, the correct setting for HDMI 480i or HDMI 480p output resolution in that hidden HDMI Settings menu is "16:9 Wide" (rather than "16:9 Compressed"). The 16:9 Wide setting means that the 59avi does *NOT* automatically put pillar box bars around 4:3 content -- which consumes a significant number of the 720 pixels in each line and thus clobbers horizontal resolution for the real image when viewing 4:3 DVDs. [Use 16:9 Compressed in the 59avi only if you are having it also scale the output up to 720p or 1080i.]


On the D2, the correct input setting for cropping for the 59avi, set as above, is "Auto Detect", and for Scaling is "Anamorphic" for wide screen movies. You will likely need to manually change the D2 Scaling to "Letter / Pillar Box" for 4:3 movies. The D2 will then generate the necessary pillar box bars -- without loss of horizontal resolution since it does it AS PART OF scaling up the 480i data to your display's resolution.


--------------------------------------------------------------


Another possibility here is that you have chosen an output display resolution that your display can not synch to quite correctly. Some displays will put up a cropped or otherwise distorted image rather than simply displaying nothing. Trying to get aspect ratios correct if the display is doing this is fruitless.


Try playing with output resolutions to see which ones REALLY work. For example, some CRT displays really want 1080i input, rather than 720p input, but will display a distorted image if fed 720p. The fact that the CRT is not "fixed pixel" doesn't imply it will correctly handle all the various possible input resolutions between 480i and it's max sync-rate resolution.


Also, if you are connected via HDMI to your display, try changing the D2's Settings / Video Output / Sync from "Normal" to "Inverted".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

rudolpht,

Good advice re frustration. But understand that my frustration was not that the D2 couldn't handle the Comcast box -- that's just to be expected with that benighted piece of so called engineering.


My frustration was that whatever was going on between the D2 and the Comcast box was ALSO, apparently, screwing up how the D2 handled the 59avi DVD player!


--------------------------------------------------------------------------


In any event, there has been no repeat of this HDCP lock problem since I "fixed" it yesterday morning. I'll keep an eye on it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A new D2 problem?


I've now had 2 instances of all my Video Source Adjustment settings (under the "7" key) spontaneously reverting back to their Factory Default settings. These are things like input settings for Brightness and Contrast and for Chroma Bug Correction for example. All settings for all inputs revert.


When this happens, the main configuration settings accessed via the Settings menu remain unchanged, i.e., just as I set them.


And reloading Saved User Settings resets everything under the "7" key back to where it is supposed to be, so there's an easy work around.


I've not been able to figure out why this is happening. In the course of switching control modes on the remote, I have frequently pressed keys thinking I was talking to my Comcast box when in fact the control mode was set to "Main" on the D2. Typically these would be the number keys (i..e., I thought I was changing channels).


The best I can figure is that there is some combination of number key presses that has the unexpected effect of reverting everything under the "7" key -- for all inputs, not just one -- back to original default values.


Does anyone know of such a D2 remote key combo so that I can better avoid it?


I don't think it is corruption of D2 memory since both times the values reverted to default values instead of some sort of random values.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

obie_fl,

The fact that Color and Hue D2 input settings are working with your 79avi is certainly puzzling.


Do me a favor. Under the "7" key for the 79avi's input on the D2, go to the "Info" panel and confirm that the D2 is, in fact, really seeing HDMI RGB at 480i from your 79avi, and then re-check that Color or Hue is working.


The idea that it was the HDMI RGB (vs. HDMI YCbCr) which was causing those controls not to work in my configuration was just a guess. If you are seeing them working when the D2 really says it is receiving an HDMI RGB input at 480i, then I guess my problem lies elsewhere, although I can't imagine what it would be.

--Bob


EDITED TO ADD: I wonder if it is working for you because of the "Bypass" stuff you've been trying in you hunt for proper aspect ratio?


----------



## obie_fl

Bob - Thanks for the responses.


When I had RGB selected on the Pioneer I also checked the "7" info and it did say RGB. I'm now using (Component 12bit) on the Pioneer as RGB was not passing blacker then black on my system. Does RGB pass blacker then black on your system?


The 59AVi menu does sound the same as the 79AVi and yes I am in the HDMI menu. The settings you and Nathan recommended are what I started with and also work with my cable HD-DVR. I think I'll start from scratch tonight on the 79AVi and maybe swap HDMI ports with the cable box.


I'm confident my display works at 720P as that is what I was using with my previous scaler. I will play around with 1080i and maybe 960P once I get 720P figured out. I wish there was a way to change resolutions other then the main setup menu. I like to see a discrete key or at least move it into the "7" menu.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

obie_fl,

By default the "HDMI Direct" settings in the 59avi pass neither Blacker than Black nor Peak White data at 480i. The folks in the 59avi owner's thread consider this a bug. The bug only exists at 480i.


Carl Sundstrom came up with a work around -- verified with a digital signal sensor to check precisely what's coming out when the DVD sends luminance values of 1-254 in. His work around involves making the 59avi go through some gyrations with Extended RGB. See the first post in the 59avi owner's thread in the standard definition DVD forum here.


The results of his work around include a few steps still crushed right near 0 and 254, and a handful of one step rounding errors in between. In addition, Color saturation has to be reduced a few steps since YCbCr to RGB color conversion gets done using the math for Extended RGB with these settings.


Some folks prefer to run the 59avi in it's default 480i settings -- giving up Blacker than Black and Peak Whites instead -- or at 480p or above where the 59avi has no such problem -- rather than live with Carl's "nearly perfect" results for 480i.


The 59avi does not offer the option to send anything other than RGB out the HDMI cable.


I'm using Carl's work around settings at 480i with my 59avi.


--------------------------------------------------------------------


Your aspect ratio problem is certainly a puzzle. Is it possible that you've got something set for PAL instead of NTSC?


---------------------------------------------------------------------


I'm beginning to think my Color/Hue control problem really might be a bit of the firmware that didn't quite take properly. But I'm not going to reload the firmware just yet as I have a perfectly adequate workaround using the controls in the other devices.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Bob - The 79AVi has RGB, Full Range RGB, Component 12 bit, and Component under HDMI Color. I guess this is one area where the 59 and 79 diverge.


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Next time you talk to Anthem ask why this problem seems to be much more prevalent on the D2. As I said earlier every HDMI device I own and most I've seen in other places have a screw holding the jack above it. I can't help but believe this is a design flaw on Anthem's part.



There appear to be two basic configurations for securing the HDMI jack. One as on the D2, which is surface mounted to the board and not secured to the chassis. The other is the one you speak of wherein there is a tab with a screw for mounting to the chassis. In terms of stability for insertion and extraction, having the jack secured to the chassis could be a better solution.


The other design variation is the use of friction retention clips within the HDMI jack body. There appear to be 3 variants of this:


a. Clips on bottom (as in the D2 jack)

b. Clips on bottom and top (as in my Marantz DV9600 and SAT Receiver).

c. Clips on bottom and sides


In my estimation the only design that makes sense in terms of keeping an even force on the wafer pins is design "b". The other designs will create asymmetric loads and allow crushing/distortion of the pins. Which is exactly what is happening repeatedly on the D2 jacks. This has happened to me and many others including Nick, himself, at Anthem.


I am onto my 4th D2. I have relayed all of this to my dealer who has passed it on to Anthem with my observation that they consider using a different HDMI jack for the D2. I think the basic cost to Anthem is probably about $20(maybe less) for the 5xHDMI jacks that they install in each unit. It is costing them much, much more than that for all the returns and support issues that these jacks are causing, not to mention frustrations for the end users. From my dealer, Anthem apparently is quite concerned about this and would sincerely like a solution to this problem as well.


----------



## randman

nkb - were you able to confirm that it's the HDMI jacks you're having trouble with versus the handshaking between the D2 and Fujitsu (i.e. were you able to try the D2 with a display of your dealer's)?


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am onto my 4th D2.



Congratulations, I myself have been through 5 Integra Research RDC-7.1 processors until I found one that worked OK. I wonder what Anthem/IR do with all these defective units? Sell them as refurbished? Fix them and sell them as new?


R


----------



## stieger

folks,


I have the Panasonic AE700 Projector, which according to projectorcentral, indicates a 1280x 720 native rate, but a "maximum" of 1920x1080.


found here: http://www.projectorcentral.com/Pana...-PT-AE700U.htm 


So, does this information from this site indicate I can use the Anthem to scale to 1080P based on this PJs max rate?


Just curious if anyone would be able to give me some setup tips (refresh rates, if I should use 4:2:2, and other stuff to help me get it looking awesome) with this PJ since I'll have my unit later in the week!


best,


Stieger


----------



## stieger

One last question - anybody using the Oppo 970H DVD player using hdmi out to the Anthem?


Just curious, for those who may be using this combo, what's your impressions? Any problems, does it look as good as expected (or in comparison to some of the Pioneer dvd models)?


Looking at the Oppo makes me wonder what is missing since it's so small. My previous DVD player, the CARY DVD-6, was 45 lbs and was rather substantial, so just wondering if the Oppo leaves any audio or video to be desired.....


Thx, just "rebuilding" my system for the 100th time!!


Stieger


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> nkb - were you able to confirm that it's the HDMI jacks you're having trouble with versus the handshaking between the D2 and Fujitsu (i.e. were you able to try the D2 with a display of your dealer's)?



Once I determined that the D2 jack was damaged I didn't go any further. A visual inspection shows the damage clearly - there would be no expectation that it could work under the circumstances.


Remember, I had the D2 and Fujitsu handshaking, once upon a time (when I didn't have a damaged HDMI jack). So I don't think there is a fundamental HDMI/handshaking problem.


However, on the next D2, I WILL have them test it for me at the dealers before it goes home. But, I want to be there for the test (and the insertion of the HDMI cable).


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stieger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One last question - anybody using the Oppo 970H DVD player using hdmi out to the Anthem?
> 
> 
> Just curious, for those who may be using this combo, what's your impressions? Any problems, does it look as good as expected (or in comparison to some of the Pioneer dvd models)?
> 
> 
> Looking at the Oppo makes me wonder what is missing since it's so small. My previous DVD player, the CARY DVD-6, was 45 lbs and was rather substantial, so just wondering if the Oppo leaves any audio or video to be desired.....
> 
> 
> Stieger



The Oppo does just fine with the D2. SD DVDs upscaled and deinterlaced thru the Gennum look almost as good as Blu-ray discs over the Samsung BDP 1000. It seems to have less operational issues than almost anything out there on HDMI.


The Oppo also makes a good transport for CDs when outputted digitally into my Benchmark DAC1. Not the best I have heard, however.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stieger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> folks,
> 
> 
> I have the Panasonic AE700 Projector, which according to projectorcentral, indicates a 1280x 720 native rate, but a "maximum" of 1920x1080.
> 
> 
> found here: http://www.projectorcentral.com/Pana...-PT-AE700U.htm
> 
> 
> So, does this information from this site indicate I can use the Anthem to scale to 1080P based on this PJs max rate?
> 
> 
> Just curious if anyone would be able to give me some setup tips (refresh rates, if I should use 4:2:2, and other stuff to help me get it looking awesome) with this PJ since I'll have my unit later in the week!
> 
> 
> best,
> 
> 
> Stieger



You would basically be defeating the purpose of the D2 if you scaled to 1080P as the projector's scaler will then turn around and scale it to 720P, its native rate. You would want to scale everything with the D2 to 720P your native rate to bypass the projectors scaler.


----------



## obie_fl

nkb - Lots of good info on the HDMI connectors let us know what you find out.


I started from scratch on the Pioneer 79AVi tonight and now have it dialed in. I don't know what was going on with it last night but it looks fine now. I did adjust the geometry on the projector so that may have been the centering problem I saw. I'm pretty happy at this point.


I have all three sources pretty much set up and not a S/PDIF or analog cable in sight.







My sources again are Pioneer DV-79AVi, Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR (Brighthouse Networks with Passport software), and Toshiba A1 HD DVD. All connected via HDMI only. I may have to pick up the Oppo 790 just for the SACD over HDMI and may consider replacing the 79AVi if it is up to snuff.


----------



## stieger

(Obie_fl)


So even though my projector is 1280x720 (which I assume means it'll do 1080i), I should still have the Anthem do 720P vs. 1080i?


What about 4:2:2 as opposed to 4:2: 4 or whatever it's called???


Thx again,


e


----------



## Andy Lammer

Has Anthem mentioned anything about offering an SDI input for the D2 ?


- Andy


----------



## Max Spivak

I haven't heard about SDI input. Frankly, I doubt they would do it -- too much of a niche. Doesn't HDMI essentially take it's place in the market?


----------



## obie_fl

I'd be shocked if they offered SDI. Although I do still have my SDI mod'ed Pany.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stieger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> (Obie_fl)
> 
> 
> So even though my projector is 1280x720 (which I assume means it'll do 1080i), I should still have the Anthem do 720P vs. 1080i?
> 
> 
> What about 4:2:2 as opposed to 4:2: 4 or whatever it's called???
> 
> 
> Thx again,
> 
> 
> e



That is correct you would want the D2 to do the scaling not the projector.


Not sure about the Chroma subsampling question. Do you mean on the projector? Generally 4:4:4 has a higher sampling rate then 4:2:2.


----------



## stieger

(obie_fl)


I was talking about the Anthem set up at 4:2:2 or 4:4:4?


Just not sure if I should set the Anthem to 720 or 1080.


Last question - how is the Toshiba A1 working out - do you have it sending 480, and if so how are you ensuring you're by-passing the scaler in the Toshiba and using the Anthem?


Thx,


Eric


----------



## mlbrand

stieger,


You should set the Anthem to output 720 to your projector, as your projector will not _output_ 1080. It will allow 1080 to be _input_, but has to convert it to its _native_ rate of 720 for output. The D2 will be MUCH better at this 1080 to 720 conversion, so you will get a better picture.


----------



## obie_fl

Not sure how or where you would set the chroma subsampling on the Anthem, only thing I can think of is the Input Color Space selection, which I have on Auto.


The Toshiba can't output 480i on standard DVDs, it can only output 1080i, 720P or 480P. For standard DVDs you would want to output deinterlaced 480P and let the D2 scale it to your native rate. For HD DVDs you would set the player to 1080i and let the D2 scale that to native rate. Many of us have a seperate player for standard DVDs that outputs 480i, such as the Pioneer Elite 59AVI or 79AVi. The new Oppo 970 is also popular and only $150.


----------



## stieger

Rumor has it the Oppo doesn't have very good sound quality - so not sure why I'd want to pair it with the Anthem.


I had an AVM30 with a CARy-6 DVD player, and that combo sounded incredible. However, when I took the Cary out of the setup and put in a low-level denon, I immediately noticed the sound quality was less open and airy, detailed, etc. I don't want to buy the Oppo only to find this exact scenario.


for those of you with the Oppo AND other more expensive DVD players, do you notice a difference in the audio quality between the Oppo and your other unit while running through the Anthem?


Best,


Stieger


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> *Originally posted by stieger* "Rumor has it the Oppo doesn't have very good sound quality - so not sure why I'd want to pair it with the Anthem. I had an AVM30 with a CARy-6 DVD player, and that combo sounded incredible. However, when I took the Cary out of the setup and put in a low-level denon, I immediately noticed the sound quality was less open and airy, detailed, etc. I don't want to buy the Oppo only to find this exact scenario. for those of you with the Oppo AND other more expensive DVD players, do you notice a difference in the audio quality between the Oppo and your other unit while running through the Anthem?"



stieger,


If you utilize the digital outputs from any CD or DVD player you use the DAC's in the processor. In this scenario there should be no difference in the audio quality between CD/DVD players as you are only using the player as a transport and audio "quality" will be determined by the ability of your processors DAC's. However, when you are using the ANALOG outputs from a CD/DVD player you ARE using the DAC's in the player, not the processor.


Simply put, if you think your CD players DAC's are better than your processors DAC's, use the analog connection. If you like the sound of your processors DAC's better, use a digital connection.


I'm fairly certain that the AVM30's and the D2's DAC's are better than the Oppo's







!


----------



## Nathan_R

I have a dumb question:


I just bought a Sirius SR-H550 satellite radio tuner. Currently, I have the unit set up to ouput to my AVM-50 via optical. Would I be better suited setting the digital satellite tuner to output via analog stereo L+R to the processor?


I could see the benefit of setting a dedicated cd player to output analog stereo, but I'm curious what the preferred output would be from a digital satellite radio tuner.


Thoughts?


----------



## muad'dib

I have found that even if you are using digital outs of a dvd player, you DO get different sound quality between players..


I have the D2, and tried several dvd players using the coax digital outs.. To my surprise, very big sound differences..


For testing, I found that JVC was the worst (very thin and tinny sounding), while pioneer elite sounded smooth and full..


I think that the player when used as a transport, must impact sound on how well it picks up the digital signal..


Not sure what the real cause is, but different players make different sonic impact..


----------



## Kris Deering

All digital is not the same. I've had several DVD players connected to my D1 and my D2 via coax digital connections, and the differences between them can be quite drastic. Most recently I had the Toshiba HD-A1, Oppo 970HD and the Denon DVD 5910. The 5910 sounds quite a bit different with CDs via coax with a far richer and fuller sound. I would demo this to anyone at anytime (I would do a blind test for you if you like). While I agree that the Anthem is doing all the processing, there is a difference.


----------



## obie_fl

I guess my first question would be what about HDMI or is this strictly a S/PDIF phenomenon? If there is also a difference between transports over HDMI what to you attribute the difference to?


----------



## rudolpht

It would be hard to argue that two totally idental bitstreams would produce different results, but to the extent that one HDMI source may produce different (non-dentical) bitstreams whether because of electromagnetic or conductive emissions, or any level of processing based on differences of components within source components (different routing, processors, quality of connections, bitrate tolerances, etc), it would have the same potential for differences.


Some of the newer components are absolutely astounding in terms of features and flexibility per dollar, but quality still counts even in a digital world.


----------



## stieger

So if anyone can answer my question about the Oppo sounding as good, on par, or 'worse" than the other 'more expensive" DVD players you have with HDMI, I would greatly appreciate it and I'll stop hijacking this thread...


Best,


Stieger


----------



## stieger

(Nathan_R) good question, I wish I had an answer for you!


I have another question for those who have - previously owned the AVM20 or 30, or owned a D1, or listened to the Statement series product prior to buying the AVM 50....


Were you able to hear any differences in the sound quality?


Does the AVM50/30 and 20 use the same series chipset for dacs, processing, etc?


Does the AVM50 and D2 sound that much different even though the D2 has more processing power/chips?


I'm just curious if people can literally hear the difference between 24/96 and the D2's 192/24 processing?


Last thing/question - IF HD-DVD and Blu Ray are capable of 192kHz, why buy a preamp that doesn't do that (ie., buy the 50 vs. the D2) other than price...


Thx all, just trying to ascertain the "real" differences between the 2 processors, and what is more "marketing" than reality...


Best,


Stieger


----------



## Max Spivak

How do you connect IR to D2?


I use Xantech 789-44 connection block for IR distribution ( http://xantech.com/products/p_folder/p_78944.htm ). It outputs to a regular 2-conductor IR emitter. I tried cutting off the emitter, stripping the two wires, and inserted them into D2's IR connection block position 1 and ground.


This didn't work, however. It shorted the two conductors when I inserted the connection block back into the D2.


How do you guys do it? Of course I can stick an IR emitter on the front, but that's ugly. I'd like to use IR receiver in the back.


Thx,

Max


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stieger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So if anyone can answer my question about the Oppo sounding as good, on par, or 'worse" than the other 'more expensive" DVD players you have with HDMI, I would greatly appreciate it and I'll stop hijacking this thread...



Stieger,

I would imagine few folks have both the Oppo and a more expensive player doing A/B comparisons. I have a Symmetry (run as a 6 channel analog source) & a 59AVi, and I have an Oppo still in an unopenned box. I've run out of "sources" that can be programmed so there is no point in trying it out given satisfaction with the 59AVi in particular.

Tim


----------



## Max Spivak

Is there a set of standard or recommended settings for 59AVi when connected to D2 via HDMI?


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Spivak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you connect IR to D2?
> 
> 
> I use Xantech 789-44 connection block for IR distribution ( http://xantech.com/products/p_folder/p_78944.htm ). It outputs to a regular 2-conductor IR emitter. I tried cutting off the emitter, stripping the two wires, and inserted them into D2's IR connection block position 1 and ground.
> 
> 
> This didn't work, however. It shorted the two conductors when I inserted the connection block back into the D2.
> 
> 
> How do you guys do it? Of course I can stick an IR emitter on the front, but that's ugly. I'd like to use IR receiver in the back.
> 
> 
> Thx,
> 
> Max



I had the same question and couldn't find an ideal solution. What I did was buy a Xantech Dinky Link Mini IR receiver. I haven't done this yet (been too busy with other things), but what I plan to do is connect the Dinky Link to the D2's rear. Then, connect an IR emitter to my Xantech connecting block. The other end of the IR emitter would then be taped to the Dinky Link IR receiver. Not a very graceful approach, but it should work, and I don't need to have an LED in the front of the D2. The Xantech Dinky Link is pretty small as far a IR receivers go, so it's not too bad of a hack. Also, with this solution, I can theoretically use the two IR emitters in the D2, in conjunction with my Xantech connecting block.


It would be nice to use the D2's connecting block as the main IR "hub", but the D2 only has 2 IR emitter outputs, which is not enough for my needs. Thus, I need to keep my existing Xantech connecting block. Nick at Anthem said that if quad IR emitters are used with the D2, then up to 8 devices can be controlled. However, I did a Google search and could not find any quad IR emitters. With dual IR emitters, only 4 devices can be controlled from the D2's connecting block, which is not enough for me.


----------



## Max Spivak

randman -- thanks.


This would work. In fact, I'm doing a variant of the flasher-taped-to-IR-receiver to control my gear both via regular IR as well as Control4 (which uses IR itself to convert devices)


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stieger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So if anyone can answer my question about the Oppo sounding as good, on par, or 'worse" than the other 'more expensive" DVD players you have with HDMI, I would greatly appreciate it and I'll stop hijacking this thread...
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> 
> Stieger



Oppo is not as good as pio 79avi

but what oppo does is play

SACD, DVD Audio and recorded home dvd movies and audio CDs

with out any problems

where pio has some problems

BTW

I use both


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All digital is not the same. I've had several DVD players connected to my D1 and my D2 via coax digital connections, and the differences between them can be quite drastic. Most recently I had the Toshiba HD-A1, Oppo 970HD and the Denon DVD 5910. The 5910 sounds quite a bit different with CDs via coax with a far richer and fuller sound. I would demo this to anyone at anytime (I would do a blind test for you if you like). While I agree that the Anthem is doing all the processing, there is a difference.



Interesting. What was your impression of the HDA1 vs the oppo in this regard?



Is anyone esle concerned about how hot this unit gets? I was thinking of getting a cooling fan for the top of it because its so hot i cant even rest my hand on top of it for a few seconds.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good news. Based on various folks' input (thanks), I did the following:
> 
> 
> 1. Restored D2's factory defaults prior to upgrading.
> 
> 2. Ensured that my PC and D2's baud rate matched. Since the D2's factory
> 
> default is 19200, I set my PC to use that default as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used my laptop, which has a built-in RS-232 port. The upgrade to v1.06 worked the first time!! It took about 8 minutes to get to the "FPGA" configuration area, and a total of about 14 minutes to complete the upgrade. When I was using my HTPC with the USB/Serial adapter, it was taking ~20 minutes to get to the "FPGA" configuration. I thought I made sure my HTPC and D2 had the same baud rate (I was using the highest available setting of the D2).
> 
> 
> So, not sure why I was having trouble yesterday. Some theories:
> 
> 
> 1. The USB/Serial cable of my HTPC is good enough to save/restore settings but not good enough for firmware upgrades.
> 
> 
> 2. Maybe I should have used 19200 baud.
> 
> 
> 3. Maybe I should have restored D2 factory defaults before the upgrade.
> 
> 
> 4. My HTPC's audio is connected to my D2 with a digital optical cable. My HTPC's VGA out is connected directy to my projector. I know, HDMI sources are suppossed to be off, but my HTPC only uses a digital optical cable, so I figured it should be okay to be connected to the D2 while it is on.
> 
> 
> Bottom line is that it works with my laptop. Now, HDMI and component out work. Video settings (menu 7) work. Not sure if I want to experiment some more with my HTPC. Anyone else have a Keyspan USB/Serial adapter that works okay for them?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Unfortunately, I'm not so fortunate. I have a new D2 and am unable to successfully complete a firmware upgrade from 1.00 to 1.06. After 2-3 minutes, it fails with:
GF9350 uC FLASH programming failed


From what I can tell, GF9350 is related to the scaler. D2 status now reports 1.06, and audio seems fine but I get no HDMI video.


Please help







I'm still w/in my return period, and this firmware failure prevents me from further evaluation of the D2.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I'm not so fortunate. I have a new D2 and am unable to successfully complete a firmware upgrade from 1.00 to 1.06. After 2-3 minutes, it fails with:
> GF9350 uC FLASH programming failed
> 
> 
> From what I can tell, GF9350 is related to the scaler. D2 status now reports 1.06, and audio seems fine but I get no HDMI video.
> 
> 
> Please help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still w/in my return period, and this firmware failure prevents me from further evaluation of the D2.




You must not have any HDMI sources on when you do the upgrade, including your display......


----------



## chas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I'm not so fortunate. I have a new D2 and am unable to successfully complete a firmware upgrade from 1.00 to 1.06. After 2-3 minutes, it fails with:
> GF9350 uC FLASH programming failed
> 
> 
> From what I can tell, GF9350 is related to the scaler. D2 status now reports 1.06, and audio seems fine but I get no HDMI video.
> 
> 
> Please help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still w/in my return period, and this firmware failure prevents me from further evaluation of the D2.



My installer received the same message using two different USB - serial adapters. I got an old Keyspan adapter out of my closet and it worked the first time. I believe the baud rate was 9600. I turned off every other piece of equipment in my rack, including a HDMI switcher.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You must not have any HDMI sources on when you do the upgrade, including your display......



Thanks for the quick reply. My first attempt involved use of a USB-serial adapter. I just remembered I had an old laptop in storage, and it happened to have a DB9 port on the back. After establishing a direct connection from the laptop, the flash worked successfully.


----------



## stieger

Did any of you D1/D2 owners previously own an AVM30 or AVM20? Just curious if you do in fact hear a difference in the sound quality between your D1/2 and the AVM line.


I know the D2 is more of a "scaler" upgrade vs. any audio differences (unless there are more notch filters or upgraded DACS) but just trying to figure out the "real/measurable" differences vs. that which is on paper - ie., can a person truly hear the difference between the AVM50's 24/96 processing and the D2's dual processors and 24/192 processing? I'd assume a person can't audibly hear that difference, but would like comments from people who previously owned the AVM20 or 30 prior to upgrading...


FYI, I used to have a Theta CII which I sold because it was SOOO hot even in standby that I could have cooked an egg on it - it warmed the inside of the cabinet and it had plenty of ventilation!


Best,


Eric


----------



## stieger

Hey folks,


Quick question for everyone - would appreciate your replies:


Did anyone audition the D1 or D2 prior to getting your AVM30/50?


I'm curious if you can truly hear the audible differences between the two.


Yes, I know the AVM has 1 processor and is 24/96 and the D1/2 is 24/192, but can people "really" hear that, or is it marketing schpeel?


Lastly, for those who do have the AVM50. Other than price, why did you buy it instead of the D2 when HDMI 1.3 and HD-audio is capable of 192/24, and the AVM50 will "only" process at 96kHz?


Thx all, just trying to decide if I should sell the 50 when I get it, or trade it in and get the D2 - but only if the audio differences are truly apparent...


Best,


Stieger


----------



## uzun

Does the D2 feature multiple output resolutions for a given HDMI input at this time? That is, if I hook my cable box HDMI output into the D2, I would want options for 720p output of 480i and 720p channels, and 1080i output of the 1080i channels. Does the D2 allow this in some fashion?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uzun* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does the D2 feature multiple output resolutions for a given HDMI input at this time? That is, if I hook my cable box HDMI output into the D2, I would want options for 720p output of 480i and 720p channels, and 1080i output of the 1080i channels. Does the D2 allow this in some fashion?



No... the output is set to one rez.... is there a scaler that does this? Just curious..


Also, for my education, why would you want to do this? Since your display has a native rate, I am trying to figure out the benefit of doing this.. once again, just curious....


----------



## uzun

Yes the lumagen scalars do this, but when you think about it it seems a necessary feature. How else do you handle things like cable boxes etc. I guess you could output everything 1080p/60 and be done with it. I might need to get my projector modded to accept 1080p/60 just to get around this sort of thing.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stieger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So if anyone can answer my question about the Oppo sounding as good, on par, or 'worse" than the other 'more expensive" DVD players you have with HDMI, I would greatly appreciate it and I'll stop hijacking this thread...
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> 
> Stieger



Stieger,


I tried the Oppo670HD as a transport for my audio system it was connected in my Audiomat Tango 2.5 Stereo DAC and the performance is far below my current CD transport which is a Vecteur D2.2. I also did the same test with my AVM30 and again the Oppo as a CD transport is far from reaching the level of a high end transport. If you picky about audio you may not like it.


This is why I keep a separate CD transport to get the best out of my CDs.


----------



## stanger89

I really hate to crash this thread, but is there any word on if/when there will be an upgrade for the AVM-20 V2?


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I really hate to crash this thread, but is there any word on if/when there will be an upgrade for the AVM-20 V2?




Greetings,


I am sure that no one who owns an AVM 50 would have the anser to your question. Why not try contacting Anthem directly?


Regards,


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uzun* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes the lumagen scalars do this, but when you think about it it seems a necessary feature. How else do you handle things like cable boxes etc. I guess you could output everything 1080p/60 and be done with it. I might need to get my projector modded to accept 1080p/60 just to get around this sort of thing.



Greetings,


Maybe I am missing something. Wouldn't you want to send your projector's native rez. from the Anthem? I have my HD cable box set to output 480i/720p/1080i because those are all the resolutions that it feeds natively. My AVM 50 is set to output 1280x720 which is my projector's native rez.


Why would you want the scaler to output varying resolutions which would ultimately engage your projectors scaling?


Sorry if I missed something..


Regards,


----------



## stanger89

Just thought there might be some Anthem owners interested in the upgrade following the thread as the "AVM-20 V3" as it would be called, would basically be an AVM 50.


FWIW, I did contact Anthem a couple months ago, but didn't get much of an answer (not that I'm surprised being forthcoming often comes back to bite them).


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uzun* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes the lumagen scalars do this, but when you think about it it seems a necessary feature. How else do you handle things like cable boxes etc. I guess you could output everything 1080p/60 and be done with it. I might need to get my projector modded to accept 1080p/60 just to get around this sort of thing.



It doesn't seem like a neccesary featrue... isn't a scaler made to "scale" to a resolution? That's the whole point.. if you just want to pass native output, then you would just want a switcher, or you could just plug the cable box directly into your projector and let it do the scaling... am I missing something?


And what kind of projector are you using? Why would you need to get it modded to accept 1080p/60 unless it's a 1080p, and I think all of those accept 1080p anyways ....


----------



## Dennis Oblow

When I spoke to Anthem a couple of months ago, they said there would be an AVM20 upgrade but they wouldn't commit to a time frame


----------



## uzun

My projectors native res is 1920x1080 and it can accept 720p/1080i and 1080p/24 but not 1080p/60. I have a Qualia 004.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uzun* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My projectors native res is 1920x1080 and it can accept 720p/1080i and 1080p/24 but not 1080p/60. I have a Qualia 004.



I was going to comment that the 004 was the only 1080p projector that can't accept 1080/60....










I have a Ruby and if it is any indication, the scaler in the D2 is better than the one in the Ruby, and I see no reason why you wouldn't wan't to use the D2 at 1080i... having the output change with different inputs makes no sense, and I can only imagine that the Gennum is better than the internal scaler that Sony is using based on my experience with the Ruby, which is much newer, and I would imagine has a comparable scaler in it... on that same train of thought, if you are going to spend the money to get the input upgraded to accept 1080p, why would you want to feed it 480 or 720... makes no sense... 1080p out of the D2 will give you pixel by pixel perfection


----------



## uzun

If you had a 720p source, as in ABC-HDTV etc, and had the Gennum output it at 1080i, then the Qualia or ruby deinterlace the 1080i, you would get anomalies with video sourced material.


----------



## Max Spivak

uzun, D2 will output 1920x1080p/24. Since this is the NR of your projector, the built in scaler wouldn't need to touch the signal, as far as I understand it.


----------



## uzun

If you try and take video sourced 60hz material and output it a 24hz you have a mess, you cant use 1080p/24 for everything, only for film based material. It's not suitable for most 1080i/60 or 720p/60 sports broadcasts, for example.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uzun* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you had a 720p source, as in ABC-HDTV etc, and had the Gennum output it at 1080i, then the Qualia or ruby deinterlace the 1080i, you would get anomalies with video sourced material.



There seems to be some confusion (and maybe it's me), but for non-native rate sources there will need to be a conversion in either the Qualia or the D2 or both. While you definitely want to avoid the both combination, the whole point of the D2 video processing is to do the conversion to the projector/display's native rate (just like the qualia does now).


Though I haven't seen any other 004 users report results, the p24 output makes the D2 a great combination if you can avoid the costly p60 004 upgrade.


The bottom line is you only want to pass in signals to in there most native form, eg if you had a cable/sat box that passed SD signals as SD, DVD at 480i, HD ABC at 720p & HD NBC at 1080i IN, but always pass p24 out of the D2 to your projector.


----------



## Expletive

FYI, i believe 720p 48/72hz and 1080p/48hz are coming in firmware at some point


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uzun* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you had a 720p source, as in ABC-HDTV etc, and had the Gennum output it at 1080i, then the Qualia or ruby deinterlace the 1080i, you would get anomalies with video sourced material.



Well the Ruby accepts 1080p/60 so that not an issue... but thats besides the point.... you have a progressive display.... that it can't accept 1080p/60 is an issue...


But you want a scaler that accepts 720p, in this example, then passes it through at 720p (completely negating the scaler part of the equation) and then letting the projector scale the 720p to 1080p? Once again, whats the point of the scaler? You need to pick your poison some time (scaling to a native rate your projector can use), and, in most cases, the Gennum does it better than any other device available...


Looks like you need to upgrade your Qualia.... but even in this case, you seem to still want a scaler that is 'passive', and it still makes no sense to me.... you seem to want to let the Qualia do the scaling rather than a scaler (ie have the D2 send out 720p as 720p), and I am still unsure what your rationale is..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nothing much new to report from this end. I'll be experimenting with different speakers soon, so may have more to say on sound quality then, but for the moment I'm quite pleased -- so long as I remember to turn off PLIIx and THX when watching typical 2-channel TV. The music and movie sound modes all seem to work as advertised without any annoying semblance of digital processing as was common in the older Lexicon stuff I used previously. This unit can be quite musical!


I've had one instance of the D2 refusing to power up in the morning -- either from the remote or from the front panel buttons. A disconnect from wall power and a reconnect fixed that. I'm not sure where this came from. The D2 and all it's inputs are on a surge protector and the surge protector is plugged into a high-capacity battery UPS which also doubles as a surge protector. So I don't think it was a power glitch. Cosmic rays perhaps.


I've had numerous instances of the Comcast HD/DVR box getting confused as to which resolution to send out. I have the Comcast set for HDMI 1080i for HDTV and HDMI 480i for the SDTV override. Sometimes changing channels or swapping tuners or switching to DVR playback will cause the Comcast to put out the other resolution from the one it is supposed to, even though it has apparently gone through a new HDMI/HDCP handshake. I've no doubt this is a Comcast problem, but for those of you using the Comcast/Motorola HD/DVR, KEEP AN EYE ON THE D2'S INPUT RESOLUTION as displayed on the D2's front panel! Viewing SDTV upscaled to 1080i by the Comcast box will look a lot worse than forcing the Comcast box to put out the proper 480i and letting the D2 do the de-interlacing and scaling. And of course the same is true if the Comcast box is putting out HDTV as 480i!


If you discover the Comcast box is putting out the wrong resolution, changing channels to a channel of the other resolution (HDTV vs. SDTV) and back invariably seems to "fix" it. Similarly going in and out of DVR playback seems to "fix" it. Note that the D2's handling of 480i is good enough that if you've recorded an HDTV program and the the Comcast box plays it back at only 480i, you may not immediately notice that it's wrong! Again, keep an eye on the input resolution displayed by the D2.


I've had a few rare instances of the Comcast box not being able to get an HDCP lock with the D2 -- the Ghastly Green screen. Switching the D2 to a non-HDMI input and back invariably fixes that. Again, I'm assuming this is actually a Comcast problem.


Out of an abundance of caution I decided to add a fan to disperse the D2's heat a little faster. I got one of those cooling fan pads designed to go under a laptop computer (about $50), turned it upside down, and placed it on top of the D2 shifted over towards where the power cord comes into the D2. That seems to work and it's sufficiently silent. I have it powered separately (not off the D2) so it runs all the time to cool the D2 faster when the D2 is turned off.


More later.

--Bob


----------



## uzun

If you set the D2 to pass 1080p24sf to the Qualia 004, you would get a mess with all video sourced material which is 60hz. You cannot convert 60hz video sourced material to 24hz cleanly, you have to drop frames and the result is a stuttering mess.


So for video sourced 480i, 480p, or 720p material you have to use a 60hz output mode. For the Qualia 004 without the 1080p/60 mod that means 720p/60. For 1080i/60 video sourced material you would want to output 1080i/60.


For all film sourced material, at any input resolution, you would output 1080p24sf.


You cannot output everything at 1080p24sf because that would result in massive stuttering for all NON-FILM sourced programs, such as sports, regular tv shows etc.


Even if you had the 1080p/60 capability, you would want to output film based material at 1080p/24 and video sourced material at 1080p/60, although you could get by with simply outputting 1080p/60 all the time for simplicity sake and not lose much.


----------



## rudolpht

You are asserting that the Qualia has multiple native rates? or as is more likely it is a standard SXRD p60, it just doesn't take it in p60 (like a wide range of displays that don't). There is not a film projector built into the unit (







) so 24sf is being converted somewhere (ie the scaler inside the 004). If you believe that your projector needs to be driven by multiple non-native rate standards to achieve best picture quality results, particularly if the native rate is not allowed to be input externally from the projector, then D2 is probably not for you and an HDQ or some other interim fix until p60 is a better choice.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uzun* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> So for video sourced 480i, 480p, or 720p material you have to use a 60hz output mode. For the Qualia 004 without the 1080p/60 mod that means 720p/60. For 1080i/60 video sourced material you would want to output 1080i/60.....
> 
> 
> Even if you had the 1080p/60 capability, you would want to output film based material at 1080p/24 and video sourced material at 1080p/60, although you could get by with simply outputting 1080p/60 all the time for simplicity sake and not lose much.




In your first point, you don't need a scaler, you just need a switcher.... it still makes no sense.. the 720p/60 still has to get to 1080i/p.... you can either have the scaler do it or the Qualia... why would you inverst ~$1500-2000 for a scaler and then bypass it.


Your second point makes a little more sense, but not much. I still think that a scaler makes no sense in that scenario... if you have a device that is cabable of outputting film based source at 24p, what would a scaler do for you if it just passed 1080/24p straight through and did the same for 1080i/p 60 inputs... you don't need a scaler for that... you need seperate inputs or a switcher..


If I am making sense of all of your posts, you want a scaler that will scale what? 480i and 480p? Passing 720p straight through so the Qualia can scale and deinterlace seems foolish for the money, and while there are scalers that do this (Lumangen Vision Pro HDP's "Hybrid Mode"), I can see no value in this with a fixed panel display (except for 1080 24 and 60, but you keep speaking of 480 and 720 also), but do for a CRT based device... But since you have a Qualia 004.....


Anybody else care to enlighten me?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Spivak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you connect IR to D2?
> 
> 
> I use Xantech 789-44 connection block for IR distribution ( http://xantech.com/products/p_folder/p_78944.htm ). It outputs to a regular 2-conductor IR emitter. I tried cutting off the emitter, stripping the two wires, and inserted them into D2's IR connection block position 1 and ground.
> 
> 
> This didn't work, however. It shorted the two conductors when I inserted the connection block back into the D2.
> 
> 
> How do you guys do it? Of course I can stick an IR emitter on the front, but that's ugly. I'd like to use IR receiver in the back.
> 
> 
> Thx,
> 
> Max



I use a Xantech 791-44 amplified connection block, which is similar to your 789-44. I simply connected to the IR *Input* and ground on the block to the D2. Works great here.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uzun* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does the D2 feature multiple output resolutions for a given HDMI input at this time? That is, if I hook my cable box HDMI output into the D2, I would want options for 720p output of 480i and 720p channels, and 1080i output of the 1080i channels. Does the D2 allow this in some fashion?



I think I mentioned earlier that I wanted to do this also as I'm using an analog display with no native rate. It would be nice if the scaler had an option to just pass through anything higher then 480P without processing it.


----------



## obie_fl

Reviving the cheap transport vs expensive transport discussion for a moment. Those with the Oppo is the audio degradation on both S/PDIF and HDMI? Still trying to figure out where the drop in quality is originating. I have a 79AVi but it would be nice to be able to do SACD digitally.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm beginning to think my Color/Hue control problem really might be a bit of the firmware that didn't quite take properly. But I'm not going to reload the firmware just yet as I have a perfectly adequate workaround using the controls in the other devices.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I may have missed it, but did you get this resolved with the Gennum menu and the 79avi? I finally upgraded today to 1.06 on the D2, and the Gennum menu does indeed allow me to change the color and hue settings for the 79avi.


I am sending 480i via HDMI from the 79avi to the D2, which converts to 1080i for delivery over HDMI to my Qualia 006.


By the way, I have to say again, this processor is absolutely amazing. The picture quality when watching a couple movies today was outstanding - I watched Batman Returns and Corpse Bride on DVD, and some old Hitchcock movies in black and white, and the quality on all was stunning.


Now if Tivo would hurry up and release the Series 3 HD unit, I could say goodbye to the greatly inferior DirecTV HD channels, and go full bore with Comcast HD, as I have been absolutely floored by the quality of HD with Comcast - I must say, I never would have predicted that Comcast would have great HD, but at least in the Boston area, they have a HUGE leg up on DirecTV...I have both and have done tons of A/B testing.


-Brian


----------



## uzun

If the Qualia 004 has been modified to accept 1080p/60 input, the need for multiple output resolutions isn't an issue.


As it is the standard qualia 004 is a 1080p display device that can accept 720p, 1080p24sf or 1080i/60 input (IT CANNOT ACCEPT 1080p/60).


For film based material 1080p24sf works perfectly, you get clean scaling and deinterlacing from the scalar and the 004 does very little processing internally.


For video sourced material, coming it at 480i or 720p or 1080i, 1080p24sf DOES NOT WORK WELL, you get massive stuttering when you convert 60hz video sourced material to 24hz.


If you take such material and output it at 1080i, you will get BAD deinterlacing with the Qualias internal scalar for video sourced material. So you lose the benefits of the scalar.


Therefore there IS a need for multiple output resolutions if you have a Qualia 004 that CANNOT accept 1080p/60 input.


In that case you want all film sourced material to be output from the scalar at 1080p24sf regardless of the resolution it came in at.


For 480i video sourced material you want 720p/60 output because then the deinterlacing is handled by the external scalar which will do a much better job with video sourced material. The conversion from 720p/60 to the native 1080p of the Qualia works fine in the qualia itself, it introduces no deinterlacing errors of any kind.


For 720p/60 input you want 720p/60 output again for the same reason, you introduce no errors this way because the internal Qualia 720p/60 to 1080p conversion is fine since the operation is such a simple one.


You want 1080i/60 video sourced material to come through at 1080i/60 because you have no other viable option.


The point is that the need for multiple output resolutions on a given input with something like a cable box is MOST definately there with a Qualia 004 that cannot accept 1080p/60 input.


----------



## KenLand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Reviving the cheap transport vs expensive transport discussion for a moment. Those with the Oppo is the audio degradation on both S/PDIF and HDMI? Still trying to figure out where the drop in quality is originating. I have a 79AVi but it would be nice to be able to do SACD digitally.



Did you catch the Audioholics Oppo Review?

http://www.audioholics.com/productre...970HDDVDp1.php 


They go to great lengths to show/prove the analog outs for Hirez are as good as their reference Denon 5900, but HDMI is flawed. (I believe they say SPDIF is fine) No word if HDMI is firmware fixable.


Since I'm still waiting (hint hint) on the D2 upgrade, I'm considering picking up the Oppo for the great analog DVD-A/SACD.


Ken


----------



## htguy1

Hi,


Just curious if anyone has done an a/b comparison between the D2 scaling/deitnerlacing and that done by the Lumagen HDP? How do they compare?


God bless...


mark


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Reviving the cheap transport vs expensive transport discussion for a moment. Those with the Oppo is the audio degradation on both S/PDIF and HDMI? Still trying to figure out where the drop in quality is originating. I have a 79AVi but it would be nice to be able to do SACD digitally.



I have an Oppo and D2 at the moment and there are some problems of which Oppo is aware. To answer your question see #3. Here they are:


1. Multchannel Hi res audio over HDMI between the latest D2 firmware and the Oppo (both release and beta fw) is not working. Some seem to have been luck and can get it to work but theres a few of us now that are still stuck and Oppo has confirmed there is an issue.


2. Only able to get multichannel hi-res audio out of HDMI with the Oppo set to 720 or 1080i. Apparently this isnt a problem with all receivers/processors but it is with the D2. Based on the wording in the manual it doesnt seem like something they can or will fix. You can do this fairly easily with the HDMI button on the remote but since youre going to have the Oppo at 480i for everything else you cant really 'macro' it. Also, analog isnt an awful choice either if you dont listen to a lot of these discs.


These next 2 are stricly oppo related but i'll put them here for the sake of completeness.


3. SACD sound quality. The oppo rep actually offered this up as something they were working on at the moment, seemed to be at the top of their list. They convert DSD to PCM and theres a problem with the conversion. Based on the details i know at this point, it seems that only SACD sound quality is affected.


4. SACD pauses between contigious tracks when there shouldnt be one. SO if you want to play DSOTM via HDMI OR analog youre going to wait -2 seconds between tracks which is unaccaptable for that album. I dont know of another that requires that sort of continuous play. The oppo rep was aware and said it was on their list to fix.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htguy1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Just curious if anyone has done an a/b comparison between the D2 scaling/deitnerlacing and that done by the Lumagen HDP? How do they compare?
> 
> 
> God bless...
> 
> 
> mark



I owned the Luma before the D2 and i would have to say theyre on par. I started playing with the noise reduction on the D2 tonight and it seemed to do a pretty good job, i'll do some more testing tomorrow. Keeping in mind its tough to say with a gap between owning th etwo but the D2 does look pretty amazing.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now if Tivo would hurry up and release the Series 3 HD unit, I could say goodbye to the greatly inferior DirecTV HD channels, and go full bore with Comcast HD, as I have been absolutely floored by the quality of HD with Comcast - I must say, I never would have predicted that Comcast would have great HD, but at least in the Boston area, they have a HUGE leg up on DirecTV...I have both and have done tons of A/B testing.
> 
> 
> -Brian



I, too would make the jump in Boston, if Comcast had a real DVR choice. The Moto just does not make it. Here in Sudbury, we also hope to have Verizon Fios TV by the end of this year. Even though NESN HD is now available on DirecTV I am even more upset with DTV as I would need to add a larger 5 LNB dish and a HR-20 (without DVR) to obtain the new spot beamed feed of NESN. No Red Sox in HD in this household right now. How do the locals on Comcast compare to OTA??


----------



## ripclawsa

Getting back to the problems faced by nkb with the HDMI jacks on the D2, I admit this is very concerning (probably a major understatement). I planned on buying a D2 sometime in the near future, but reading about these problems is putting a dampener on my plans. If I do decide to buy the D2, I will do the following at the dealer:


1) Take an HDMI upscaling DVD player (a Marantz DV9600 is my choice) along and get the dealer to test with the D2 by plugging them together via HDMI.

2) Evaluate the video performance of the D2. As per Levesque's and others observations, the D2 is superlative in this department, but I want to see this for myself.

3) Perform a firmware upgrade at the dealer, or at the very least, get the dealer to show me firsthand how this is done.

4) Connect the HDMI video output from the D2 to a DVI input on a plasma. I want to see if there are any issues between DVI and HDMI. I am planning on getting either the 9th generation Panasonic plasma or the Pioneer Pro-FHD1.


Doing all of the above at the dealer I have in mind is not an issue as they stock Panasonic, Anthem and Marantz, among other brands.


As for the HDMI jacks on the D2 (as well as the AVM50 and the AVM30), I see 2 possibilities:

Anthem either goes for more robust jacks, or the status quo remains, i.e. Anthem does nothing. I cannot believe that the latter will happen given Anthem's reputation for listening to their customers. We'll see.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I, too would make the jump in Boston, if Comcast had a real DVR choice. The Moto just does not make it. Here in Sudbury, we also hope to have Verizon Fios TV by the end of this year. Even though NESN HD is now available on DirecTV I am even more upset with DTV as I would need to add a larger 5 LNB dish and a HR-20 (without DVR) to obtain the new spot beamed feed of NESN. No Red Sox in HD in this household right now. How do the locals on Comcast compare to OTA??



Hey Stan,


Yeah, the Moto has been a real piece of junk with current OS, and although Comcast is about to release the Moto boxes with Tivo OS and software on them, I was actually referring to the actual Tivo Series 3 box, which will NOT be Motorola or any other "cable box". The Series 3 will be a Tivo-branded box, with 2 Cablecard slots in the back, and external SATA storage, ethernet port, etc. I really like the cablecard idea, and this box is exactly what I've been waiting for, to go full-on with Comcast. The really cool feature which is going unnoticed by many is that the Series 3 will allow output in 480i, 480p, 720p, or 1080i, or can be set to Pass-Through. The Pass-Through setting forces the Series 3 to simply pass the signal through at the native rate of the broadcast. So, when ESPN-HD is chosen, the box will output the native rate of 720p, when NESN HD is output, it will output 1080i, etc. etc. This is perfect for us D2 owners, who ideally want all scaling/deinterlacing happening in the Gennum. Oh, and the Series 3 will actually have 6 tuners total (!), with any 2 active at any one time. You can record 2 different programs at the same time, or even record 2 programs and watch something already recorded. I have this now with my DirecTivo HR10-250, but the program choices and low HD quality with DirecTV are what will make me switch to Comcast eventually full bore.


Your point about NESN HD is right on, and I feel your pain. I have the Sox in HD only because of Comcast cablecard package, but it really stinks to pay for both. The need for the different dish with DirecTV is what sealed it for me, I'm not going to replace my dish and go through an HR-20 to receive it.


Lastly, as to your question on HD locals, the Comcast HD locals are perfect, no complaints there at all. I had very good reception of OTA HD locals as well, but of course the once in a blue moon digital artifact I was getting with OTA is non-existent when coming in through Cable.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Brian,

I have not resolved why the D2 doesn't implement Color and Hue input controls for my Pioneer 59avi at HDMI 480i.


I'm not actually looking to fix this since the 59avi has it's own internal controls, as does my Fujitsu plasma.


Since it used to work in the D2 with the V1.00 software, I'm assuming it is either a glitch in my upgrade to V1.06, or a bug that will be fixed in an upcoming Anthem release.

--Bob


----------



## jdswph




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I'm not so fortunate. I have a new D2 and am unable to successfully complete a firmware upgrade from 1.00 to 1.06. After 2-3 minutes, it fails with:
> GF9350 uC FLASH programming failed
> 
> 
> From what I can tell, GF9350 is related to the scaler. D2 status now reports 1.06, and audio seems fine but I get no HDMI video.
> 
> 
> Please help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still w/in my return period, and this firmware failure prevents me from further evaluation of the D2.



I had the same problem with a Belkin USB serial adaptor. Forturnatly the laptop I use for work had a serial port and the update ran fine. Thanks for posting your problem I would have wasted the whole weekend tinkering before Anthem opened on Monday.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uzun* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Therefore there IS a need for multiple output resolutions if you have a Qualia 004 that CANNOT accept 1080p/60 input.



As mentioned IMHO



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ... then D2 is probably not for you and an HDQ or some other interim fix until p60 is a better choice.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I, too would make the jump in Boston, if Comcast had a real DVR choice. The Moto just does not make it. Here in Sudbury, we also hope to have Verizon Fios TV by the end of this year. Even though NESN HD is now available on DirecTV I am even more upset with DTV as I would need to add a larger 5 LNB dish and a HR-20 (without DVR) to obtain the new spot beamed feed of NESN. No Red Sox in HD in this household right now. How do the locals on Comcast compare to OTA??



I used to have DirecTV HD, Dish HD, AND Voom

After the Dish DVR fiasco & the DirecTV HD-DVR not accepting all channels, and Voom taking a dirt nap, I went back to Comcast


Firewire active to DVHS, Max HD, and about 5 more channels HD that I rarely watch and channels I can't get OTA (WMUR) even with amped & two channel locked (non-interferring) combined HD antennas.

WGBHHD, CBS-4HD, WCVBHD, WHDHHD, WMURHD, WFXTHD,MTV HD, TNT pseudo-HD, WSBKHD, DiscoveryHD, Weather pseudo-HD,ESPNHD, ESPNHD2, NESNHD,WLVIHD,MAXHD (Good), HBOHD, StarzHD, Sho HD, INHD, INHD2


I don't watch but one channel SD (which at least does lots of letyterboxed programming for ultra low res but better framed SD - SciFi), but it is almost too convenient. The Motobox replacement now has me salivating, unless they forgo the Firewire, in which case I'll need two of the new ones and one Moto.


Sorry to keep up the tangent but I owe Stan for a good hook up


----------



## RudyR1999

I picked up my Anthem D2 Saturday (July 22nd) and couldn't be happier.


Anthem D2 and A5

Samsung HLS5688W

Oppo 970

Time Warner Cable, SA 8300HD

Monster Power 5100 MKII


Have a question though.... When watching DVDs (example: Matrix) what setting should I go with to get the full picture on the screen, little black bars on the top and bottom? Right now it is pulled vertically and I lose some picture on the left and right.


----------



## wingnut4772

I am seriously thinking of picking one of these up to replace my Sherwood Newcastls P-965. Has anyone here compared the two sonically and can anyone tell me if they have experience with the D2 and the Samsung 1080 dlp sets? (HLR5688)I am also trying to find out what the average street price is for the D2 if someone can PM me with the info I would be most appreciative.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rudy,

Set your DVD player to expect a 16:9 TV, and if it offers the option of generating pillar boxes (black bars left and right) when playing 4:3 content -- such as when playing older movies or DVDs of TV shows -- turn that OFF (i.e., leave this to the D2 to handle as part of its scaling of the image).


Set your DVD player to send a 480i signal to the D2 so that the D2 will handle all the de-interlacing and scaling that is necessary. Also turn off, as much as possible, any special processing the DVD player might offer, such as noise reduction, color enhancement, etc.


Now in the D2's Setup / Video Output menu, set the D2 to output the resolution that most closely matches the "native" resolution of your display -- so that the display has no additional scaling to do once it receives the signal. For example, if you have a 720p display that also accepts 1080i signals and scales them down to the display's "native" 720p, then the correct D2 output resolution will be 720p and not 1080i.


By selecting the right output resolution you are also telling the D2 whether your display has a 16:9 or 4:3 shape, so there's no need to set that separately.


Finally, set the D2's input settings for the DVD input using the Video Source Adjustment menu (found under the "7" key). Under the D2's Video Source Adjustment / Scale Output, select "Anamorphic Stretch" when watching normal wide screen DVDs. The setting "Letter/Pillar Box" is the setting to use for watching 4:3 DVDs.


With some players, the D2 may be left on Letter/Pillar Box all the time and it will automatically switch to Anamorphic for wide screen DVDs. With other players you will need to switch this manually according to the DVD you are viewing, so you will typicall leave it on Anamorphic since that's the more common case.


Now play a DVD scene that shows circles in the middle and towards the edges -- a typical resolution test chart from a calibration DVD for example, or a movie scene showing car tires moving across the screen will work.


If the circles are oval shaped instead of round either all across the screen or only near the sides of the screen -- or if portions of the image are still cropped on any side -- then you have one additional adjustment to make. Cycle through the "Zoom/Stretch/Wide" modes of your DISPLAY until you find the mode that leaves those circles looking like circles all across the image and that doesn't crop any portions of the image off any side. The correct display mode may be called just about anything since the marketing guys have no agreement here, so cycle through all of them until you find the mode that shows ALL the picture without distorting ANY of it.


Whatever mode you discover works best for your display in this test, you will leave the display in that mode no matter what you watch. The D2's Anamorphic vs. Letter/Pillar Box will handle the rest.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RudyR1999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Have a question though.... When watching DVDs (example: Matrix) what setting should I go with to get the full picture on the screen, little black bars on the top and bottom? Right now it is pulled vertically and I lose some picture on the left and right.



The Matrix Aspect Ratio is 2.35:1. Maintaining the horizontal to vertical resolution on a 16:9 screen (assuming what you have) will still have bars above and below & keep the full content on the screen.


You have three choices:

1) Keep bars to keep the theatrical aspect ratio, HDMI source input & Anamorphic. Sounds like this is what you want (me too).

2) Use the Anthem video settings to go from HDMI source input to 16:9 (Hold down the 7 key on the anthem, you'll see it). You will get "stretch-o-vision" but the screen will be filled.

3) Use the anthem 2nd heading under video settings on screen to zoom, cutting off left & right content to fill the screen from Anamorpic. Sounds like you have this or Panoramic set.


Tim


----------



## zroll1

Just got the D2 last week and set it up with my system. I'm using the four HDMI inputs for a DVHS deck, a Blu-ray Deck, a Dish receiver, and a Mac Mini. With the Mini and the Dish, I am using an HDMI-DVI adapter. If I start up the D2 in in the mode for the Mini it works great. But if I switch to the mode for the Blu-ray player or the DVHS VCR and then go back to the Mini I get a blank green screen and I can't see the Mini til I restart the D2. The same goes for my Dish when switching to the Blu-ray or DVHS deck except that when I switch back to the Dish it has a picture but it is all green and pink. I don't understand why this is happening. Please help. Thanks.


BTW-I have the 1.06 software


----------



## RudyR1999

Thanks for the answers. I just want to see the entire film. When you have 56inches of screen the black bars at the top and bottom become less annoying. I tried the letterbox and no can do with the oppo. It shrinks the film even more by putting black bars at the top, bottom, left, and right of the screen.


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zroll1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just got the D2 last week and set it up with my system. I'm using the four HDMI inputs for a DVHS deck, a Blu-ray Deck, a Dish receiver, and a Mac Mini. With the Mini and the Dish, I am using an HDMI-DVI adapter. If I start up the D2 in in the mode for the Mini it works great. But if I switch to the mode for the Blu-ray player or the DVHS VCR and then go back to the Mini I get a blank green screen and I can't see the Mini til I restart the D2. The same goes for my Dish when switching to the Blu-ray or DVHS deck except that when I switch back to the Dish it has a picture but it is all green and pink. I don't understand why this is happening. Please help. Thanks.
> 
> 
> BTW-I have the 1.06 software



Zroll1, have you tried toggling the HDMI Repeater option for the troublesome inputs? You may want to turn them to "off." I'll check my working d-vhs input's settings when I get home this evening.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zroll1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just got the D2 last week and set it up with my system. I'm using the four HDMI inputs for a DVHS deck, a Blu-ray Deck, a Dish receiver, and a Mac Mini. With the Mini and the Dish, I am using an HDMI-DVI adapter. If I start up the D2 in in the mode for the Mini it works great. But if I switch to the mode for the Blu-ray player or the DVHS VCR and then go back to the Mini I get a blank green screen and I can't see the Mini til I restart the D2. The same goes for my Dish when switching to the Blu-ray or DVHS deck except that when I switch back to the Dish it has a picture but it is all green and pink. I don't understand why this is happening. Please help. Thanks.
> 
> 
> BTW-I have the 1.06 software



There is someone else with the same Mac mini issue if you read backwards. I understand Anthem is aware, but what I do is use a seperate HMDI switcher between the display switching between the Anthem and (in my case) two PCs. I tried to do Blu-Ray 1080p direct to the display (to offload one of the Anthem HDMIs) but it didn't work to my 1080p projector (but looks great through the Anthem). People will complain that the ANthem should solve all of the industries DVI & HDMI incompatibilities. I'm more pragmatic, particularly with computer DVI vs consumer electronic products, and the cost is marginal and with a goOd remote no one would know the difference.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RudyR1999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the answers. I just want to see the entire film. When you have 56inches of screen the black bars at the top and bottom become less annoying. I tried the letterbox and no can do with the oppo. It shrinks the film even more by putting black bars at the top, bottom, left, and right of the screen.



Rudy (good name),


You should be playing out Anamorphic on the DVD player (preferrably HDMI 480i)


On the Anthem, set HDMI input & Anamorphic framing and you will see the whole film. Hold down the 7 key on the Anthem remote & you'll see the menu. It's the first check box on the first menu & the second check box on the second menu. Also in the manual (yech, I know)


----------



## RudyR1999

^ Ditto, My name has a "f" not a "ph". I have the slovenia way of spelling.


Seems like I have to sit down longer with the D2. I must say that I'm impressed with everything the D2 can produce.


Any recommend a good remote for the D2? I need something that can do the basic features of all my equipment.


----------



## zroll1

Does the D2 have problems with HDMI-DVI switching because it is just doing this thing with the two components I'm using the HDMI-DVI adapter.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RudyR1999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^ Ditto, My name has a "f" not a "ph". I have the slovenia way of spelling.
> 
> 
> Seems like I have to sit down longer with the D2. I must say that I'm impressed with everything the D2 can produce.
> 
> 
> Any recommend a good remote for the D2? I need something that can do the basic features of all my equipment.



Rudy, FWIW I'm using an MX-950 from Universal Remote. I like the hard keys, not a soft key guy, so the 950 was the top of their hard key line. It is very flexible, allows use of RF and/or IR, which is great, and is controlling everything in my setup across 3 rooms in the house. I still need to tweak the setup a bit, but it is a windows-based config program, connect to a PC via firewire to program, and is pretty cool - they have a database of thousands of components, so training is pretty easy. I also like the form factor. If you're more of a soft key guy, the MX-3000 is supposedly super cool, but requires 2 hands to operate, something I don't like.


I've heard good things of the Harmony remotes as well, similar concept. Not sure if they do RF and IR though. Because I'm using RF, I don't need line of site to anything. I can shut myself in a closet, and still fire up Zone 1 and start playing the Doors from the CD input, while triggering some Chopin in the kids room (Zone 2) from my music server, and tell Zone 3 to switch to Satellite so I can catch up on Sports Center in our bedroom. Oh, then I can let myself out of the closet, so I can quit showing off 


Good luck in your search for remote nirvana!


----------



## yatchaks

I second the MX line from Universal. I have an MX 850, an MX 700, (in the bedroom now) and had a couple Pronto remotes. Pronto's are nice, but I too, prefer a hard button remote.


----------



## Max Spivak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zroll1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does the D2 have problems with HDMI-DVI switching because it is just doing this thing with the two components I'm using the HDMI-DVI adapter.



Hmm... I wonder if this is my problem too.


My setup:


Oppo 970 ----HDMI----> D2 ---HDMI-DVI-converter---> ---DVI fiber cable---> JVC HX1U projector w/DVI input


I'm consistently having problems with the HDCP handshake. I consistently, pretty much 100% of the time, get the black screen and "Need handshake, HDMI video muted" message. Then, I power down the D2, bring it back up, and now I get the fuzzy "copy protected" image. Then, I go to setup, menu 8, (D2 menu shows up fine), set the resolution to something other than my default 720p/60, say 1080i/60. This forces a resync, and the picture appears correctly. I can then switch back to 720p.


A couple of questions --


Do you have problems with HDMI video muting? What happens when you do?


Are you using HDMI-DVI converters?


What order do you turn your devices on? Source, D2 & display.


If you had HDMI handshaking issues and were able to fix them, what did you do?



By the way, for those who remember my green dots problem.... I've been able to reproduce it with 480i over component inputs from Comcast HD box. This definitely rules out Oppo as the root of the issue. I'm waiting for my replacement D2 from Anthem.


Max


----------



## Nathan_R

The AVM-50 thread isn't doing so well, so I thought I'd ask this here.


Also, this is my official petition to merge the Official D2 and AVM-50 threads.


---------------------------------------


I have a dumb question:


I just bought a Sirius SR-H550 satellite radio tuner. Currently, I have the unit set up to ouput to my AVM-50 via optical. Would I be better suited setting the digital satellite tuner to output via analog stereo L+R to the processor?


I could see the benefit of setting a dedicated cd player to output analog stereo, but I'm curious what the preferred output would be from a digital satellite radio tuner.


Thoughts?


----------



## Max Spivak

Nathan, I think the question to ask is whose D-A conversion will be better? The radio tuner's or D2's. I'd put my money on D2. You can try both, see which one sounds better.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I second the MX line from Universal. I have an MX 850, an MX 700, (in the bedroom now) and had a couple Pronto remotes. Pronto's are nice, but I too, prefer a hard button remote.



It's a triple, a MX 950, MX 850 & an MX-800 recently retired to the family room (and an original pronto already retired there too).


The 950 is nice that it can program hold down keys so my JVC HD2K can be put in the macros for full automation.


It sounds like we'll have a couple of MX file variants here too










Rudy-Rudolf


I think playing with the hold down 7 key on Anthem and do some experimenting will fix your aspect ratio issue.


----------



## obie_fl

Nathan the limiting factor is probably going to be digital stream from the satellite, so it may not make much difference but if I was hooking it up I'd definitely use the digital out.


----------



## obie_fl

Guess I'll chime in on the remote, another MX-700 user here. Still have a Pronto squirreled away somewhere but hated it.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The AVM-50 thread isn't doing so well, so I thought I'd ask this here.
> 
> 
> Also, this is my official petition to merge the Official D2 and AVM-50 threads.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I have a dumb question:
> 
> 
> I just bought a Sirius SR-H550 satellite radio tuner. Currently, I have the unit set up to ouput to my AVM-50 via optical. Would I be better suited setting the digital satellite tuner to output via analog stereo L+R to the processor?
> 
> 
> I could see the benefit of setting a dedicated cd player to output analog stereo, but I'm curious what the preferred output would be from a digital satellite radio tuner.
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



Nathan, greetings mate! I concur about threads by the way, we have much to learn from each other me thinks  So, umm, your question is intriguing, because I too find myself the owner of an SR-H550 Sirius tuner. I am using both the optical output and the stereo output. The reasons I do this are the same reasons I do this for all of my components - that is, I want to have independent switching of sources in every Zone in the house. As Anthem so eloquently notes in the D2 manual, you cannot have independent sourcing of a component in another zone, if you don't have both analog and digital audio, and the corresponding appropriate video, for each zone. So, this makes me a cable supplier's wet dream of course! I have WAY too many cables connecting each of my sources to the D2 - however, this is the price of admission, if you want to truly use the D2 as a multi-zone, multi-source, independent switching demon preamp from hell!


Now that we settled that, I will say that I almost always prefer delivering a digital signal to the D2, rather than analog, for my main listening environment (Zone 1). This way, I can leverage the DAC within the D2 to convert my signal to analog - by doing so, I am making use of a 24 bit/192KHz digital upsampler, which allows the signal to be sampled with greater bit length and at greater range than the SR-H550, or virtually any other, component could do by itself. Now, I will admit that the SR-H550 is probably my worst argument to be made of said upsampling. This thing is receiving compressed signals via satellite, then converting this into digital bits, many of which are lost or "guessed at" in transit, before ever being output as a PCM bit stream. But, in pure point of fact, I will still take my chances with a digital bitstream over analog in this regard. The D2's DAC will get the very most out of whatever signal quality I get in. Normally, and Sirius is to be commended for this, I get VERY good quality satellite radio, and I have been pleasantly surprised on more than one occasion by the quality of the radio content through the D2. It makes FM look like pounding on stone tablets...


So, as for your claim that you would normally deliver a CD player's output over Analog Stereo as opposed to Digital, I am sorry to say that I would throw up a big flag on this one! Unless you are using an incredibly high end CD player, with an extremely good DAC with separate power supply, etc., I would trust the D2's DAC in a heartbeat over just about any CD player's DAC out there. The reasons are familiar to the above - the 24 bit word length, and 192KHZ frame rate of upsampling provides for greater dynamic range, which leads to greater depth of soundstage and higher clarity, than any other method. Of course, with every rule there are exceptions. I myself have a Meridian upsampling CD player as my reference player for all things CD. I have done A/B tests and have found the Meridian's DAC and upsampling to be more full, more rich, than the D2's...so, in my case, I output Analog Stereo via XLR outputs to the "2-channel" XLR inputs on the D2, and I listen in pure, unadulterated "Analog Stereo" from the D2...the soundstage is so wide, and so deep, I find myself calling in sick to work to keep from crying on the job....no really, it is THAT good...I find myself digging into old copies of Toad the Wet Sprocket's "Pale", just to prove that they indeed do have soul...


I say send that Sirius signal via Digital, one day you will indeed hear the difference by letting your AVM-50 do the processing instead of the cheapie DAC within the SR-H550...by the way, I'm curious, what is the best station you've found on Sirius?


Peace Nate!

-Brian


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> alot of stuff



Wow, that's really something to chew-- thanks for your thoughts! In all honesty, I haven't yet tried the stereo outputs of the Sirius, and before climbing behind the cabinet, I wanted input from others. Your post (and the several before it) saved me the trouble!


On a side note, and for what it's worth, I reported my last post to the mods and asked that this thread and the "Official AVM-50" thread be merged. We have much to learn from one another without having to search two different threads.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RudyR1999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^ Ditto, My name has a "f" not a "ph". I have the slovenia way of spelling.
> 
> 
> Seems like I have to sit down longer with the D2. I must say that I'm impressed with everything the D2 can produce.
> 
> 
> Any recommend a good remote for the D2? I need something that can do the basic features of all my equipment.



I use Harmony 688

but if you wanna to show off your system and lock yourself in the closet









than Harmony 890 remote control uses both radio frequency (RF) and infrared (IR) both work amazing (one thing with Harmony. You will need a MAC or a PC with USB to set it up and customize it to your liking.

BTW

MX 950 looks really amazing (but $1k for a remote that is allot for me at this time







)


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I use Harmony 688
> 
> but if you wanna to show off your system and lock yourself in the closet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> than Harmony 890 remote control uses both radio frequency (RF) and infrared (IR)...
> 
> )



Check reviews on the 890 before acquiring, Many, many negative on RF not working well, though the Harmony ease of setup has many admirers.


----------



## zroll1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Spivak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A couple of questions --
> 
> 
> 1.) Do you have problems with HDMI video muting? What happens when you do?
> 
> 
> 2.) Are you using HDMI-DVI converters?
> 
> 
> 3.) What order do you turn your devices on? Source, D2 & display.
> 
> 
> 4.) If you had HDMI handshaking issues and were able to fix them, what did you do?
> 
> 
> Max




1.) I don't have problems with HDMI muting.

2.) I am using 2HDMI-HDMI monster cables, both with HDMI-DVI converters attached to my Mac Mini and my Dish Receiver.

3.) D2, display, and then source

4.) Haven't fixed any handshaking issues


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zroll1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1.) I don't have problems with HDMI muting.
> 
> 2.) I am using 2HDMI-HDMI monster cables, both with HDMI-DVI converters attached to my Mac Mini and my Dish Receiver.
> 
> 3.) D2, display, and then source
> 
> 4.) Haven't fixed any handshaking issues



Which Dish receiver?


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I am in agreement regarding the AVM 50 thread and this one merging especially considering that they both use the same video processor and have similar traits in most other areas.



Regarding the remote controls, I use a Philips Pronto/Pro TSU7000 with my AVM 50. No complaints at all.


Regards,


----------



## zroll1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Which Dish receiver?



Dish 921


----------



## Bob Pariseau

zroll1,

I'm not sure you mentioned which version of D2 software you are using. You want to be on at least the V1.06 software before trying to debug HDMI connection problems as there are significant fixes in that software related to HDMI issues. If you have older software on your D2, the V1.06 software can be down-loaded from the Anthem web site and installed on your D2 yourself, using a Windows PC with a serial port.


Next, keep things simple by testing at the "easiest" resolution for DVI, which is 480p, that is, temporarily tell the D2 to output 720x480p to your display (and let the display scale as necessary from there), and tell all of your balky input devices to send 480p to the D2. Higher res signals take more bandwidth and are more subject to cable length problems and anything else that might degrade the signal. And standard DVI connections do not support 480i, so 480p is the lowest you can go.


Next, make sure you aren't being messed up by cable length problems. The devices that have DVI connectors are more sensitive to signal loss than the devices that have HDMI connectors. For testing purposes try to keep each individual cable run under about 10 feet. HDMI to HDMI can tolerate longer cables than either HDMI to DVI or DVI to DVI. "Better" quality cables can help if cable length turns out to be the problem between any two devices. There are also DVI "repeaters" and "switches" (which typically include repeaters) that essentially regenerate the signal and let you start over when measuring cable length.


Finally, be sure your connectors are fully inserted. The DVI connectors should be attached using their screws. The HDMI connnectors are friction fit, and if you have a vertical socket, a heavy cable, or an adapter or anything else that might stress the connector one way or the other in the socket, then the HDMI connector might have worked just a little bit loose. It doesn't take much to lose the connection or partially lose the connection. You may need to support the cable in some fashion.


These are the basics. If reducing things down to this simple situation STILL doesn't make the problem go away, then you probably need to get on the phone with Anthem tech support.


If reducing things down to this DOES fix the problem, then try to work your way back to your desired configuration one step at a time. You may find, for example, that to send high res output from the D2 to your DVI-based display, you either need to use a shorter cable, or a better cable, or a DVI "repeater" that re-generates the signal.

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks

I started the AVM 50 thread, and I would also like to see the D2 and AVM 50 threads become one. Even though I think most owning either processor read both threads, I feel that we would all benefit from the combined sharing of knowledge, information, and issues from all D2/AVM50 owners in a single thread.


That is of course provided LEVESQUE doesn't mind, since this is his thread.


What do you think LEVESQUE? If you agree, please shoot an e-mail to a mod asking for the thread title to reflect the change, or reply here and hopefully a mod will make it so.


----------



## Capfacsurf

I think that if the D2 thread and the AVM 50 threads are combined, the AVM 50 posters should be required to pay an upgrade fee


----------



## Hyenna

A simple question:

Anyone knows if its possible to output the unprocessed signal to the MAIN zone (like you can do for zone 2)? I tried setting the SCALER INPUT to None and COMPONENT INPUT to 1 but I get no picture at all.


And a related problem:

I'm having noise problem in the picture when the signal passes through the scaler for some reason - and this is only when I use the component inputs for switching, s-video and hdmi are fine. It looks like faint white-ish rolling horizontal lines. I first thought it was a ground loop problem, but I tried everything to get rid of it to no avail. AND it only happens when the signal gets processed by the scaler so I don't know what to think now. My Anthem is plugged to an ordinary 480i SDTV by component.


Any ideas?


I'm about to take it back to the dealer unless I hear different from Anthem's tech.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Capfacsurf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think that if the D2 thread and the AVM 50 threads are combined, the AVM 50 posters should be required to pay an upgrade fee



I'm game, that's why I upgraded my AVS membership










How about AVM 50 folks (like me) have to wait to post for the upgrade


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Folks,

I'm beginning to think that even with the V1.06 software, the D2's various HDMI connection instability problems are strongly related to the D2's operating temperature. An external fan helps a lot, but only if it moves enough air.


Even a few degrees seems to make a big difference.


I suspect the thermal engineering for the D2 isn't quite up to the task.


I had another case of inability of my Comcast box to keep an HDCP lock which happened quite unexpectedly, and for no obvious reason, after several hours of flawless viewing. Upon experiment it turned out that the Comcast box was working fine AS LONG AS MY DISPLAY WAS OFF (with the D2 set to Repeater = OFF of course). As soon as the display was turned on, the Comcast box immediately decided it was unhappy with the HDCP and reverted it's settings back to its default 480p settings -- and in those settings it would not produce a picture for more than a couple seconds.


Attempts to return the Comcast to the proper 16:9, 1080i and 480i settings would only hold if the display was left off. As soon as the display was turned on they reverted to 4:3 letterbox and 480p -- all as determined by the D2's input resolution display and the front panel of the Comcast.


Thus I think the problem is ACTUALLY in the D2, and that it is related to what the D2 does to present a "proper" HDCP to the Comcast as a source device depending upon what the D2 sees on the display output line. Note that the D2's output to the display seemed fine in all of this, so it was apparently NOT that the D2 didn't think the display was HDCP compliant, but rather that the D2 was not passing that info properly to the Comcast via it's Repeater=OFF logic.


And the*FIX* for this was to turn off the D2 for 15 minutes to let it cool down a bit. A shorter turn off didn't to the trick, so it was not just a power-cycling issue. And all the devices were still connnected to power so it wasn't a power-reset issue. The Comcast was kept on throughout this test so it wasn't a Comcast heat issue.


No other combo of steps corrected this problem except for letting the D2 cool down -- and 15 minutes of course produces only a partial cool down. Once cooler, the D2 and everything else worked fine again for another half hour of use -- plenty of time to warm up again. So I think the D2's operating termperature is right on the edge of being too hot -- sometimes it works, sometimes it fails.


I've just increased the external fan I use with the D2 and I'll see if that eliminates the problem.

--Bob


----------



## stieger

Hey folks,


Just trying to find out again if anyone auditioned the D2 before getting the 50?


Trying to figure out the benefits of the 50 IF HD-DVD plays 192kHz, and the 50 only plays to 92kHz.


Other thing I don't "get" is why does it matter anyway - humans can't hear past 19kHz anyway, so who cares if the D2 and HD-DVD can play to 192kHz?


Best,


Stieger


----------



## stieger

Folks,


Not trying to start a flame here (since I'm an AVM50 owner considering "upgrading to the D2)...


What's the big deal with the D2's ability to upsample everything to 192kHz when humans can only hear to 20kHz (if we're lucky?)


I know HD-audio goes to 192kHz also, but again, what's the big deal if no body on planet Earth can hear frequencies remotely close to that?


I'm debating on whether to keep the AVM50, since it "only" plays to 96kHz, and don't want to be left in the cold once Anthem upgrades the processing chips in the D2 to hopefully decode DD+, TrueHD, etc. My guess is since the main difference between the 50 and the D2 is the dual-processors and 192kHz upsampling, any "upgrade" to decode the new HD-audio formats wouldn't be provided to the AVM line, since it would in essence make it then equivalent to the D2?


Thoughts? You gotta wonder - if there's upgrades for decoding DD+ etc., then the AVM line would have to get 192kHz dacs.....or be left out in the cold!


Best,


Stieger


----------



## lchurch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stieger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Other thing I don't "get" is why does it matter anyway - humans can't hear past 19kHz anyway, so who cares if the D2 and HD-DVD can play to 192kHz?



You are confusing bandwidth (20Hz to 20KHz) with sampling frequency (192KHz). The sampling frequency needs to be *at least* two times the highest frequency you want to reproduce. Many folks say that two times is not nearly enough -- I happen to agree. Other folks think that 192KHz is getting way beyond what is needed.


larry


----------



## cigarguy

BOB: I found these in another thread, apparantly you are not alone in your opinion that heat could be the problem.


"As far as the unit not having a cooling fan, it is a gross design error on the part of Anthem. Tech support refuses to acknowlege that heat is any issue at all but, I don't care what they or anyone else says, extreme heat in the long run will accelerate failure in these units."


"As far as the heat issue, if it isnt an issue that effects the units as Anthem states, then I dont need to concern myself with it. If they are wrong, then they will have more people than just me that they will be repairing under warrantee at their expense."


I live in NJ and work in NY and took a trip over to 6th ave electronics to check out the D2. No D2 on display but they had a D1 and I put my hand on it to feel the temp and it was hot but, not as hot as some reports make it sound.


Either it just isnt THAT hot or the D1 runs cooler because it doesnt have the scaler in it that may add heat to the chassis. Any suggestions? Is this unit ready for primetime now?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

stieger,

The basic idea is pretty simple. Whenever you are handling the digital equivalent of an analog signal you want the digital sampling rate to be higher than the highest analog frequency you are trying to preserve by at least a factor of 2.


Failure to do this will DEFINITELY introduce artifacts in the digital data stream resulting from the fact that you are dealing with finite, discrete samples instead of a continuous, analog stream of information. Note that this is not a result of sloppy processing or bad math. It is inherent in ANY digitizing of an analog signal. You can't faithfully reproduce frequencies higher than 1/2 the sampling rate no matter how good your processing. And the resulting errors don't just screw up those high frequencies. They also damage the lower frequencies you SHOULD HAVE BEEN able to reproduce faithfully. Too high frequencies into the digitizer produce screwed up lower frequencies in the output.


If you want to see why this is so, do a search for "Nyquist Limit" on, say Wikipedia. It's a basic tenet of "information theory", and the math is not that complicated.


The bottom line is that the combination of data sampling rate -- and bit depth per sample -- together limit how precisely the digital stream of information can possibly replicate the real world, continuous analog signal. Of course whatever processing you do to the signal after digitizing it may introduce other problems. But if your sampling rate is too low compared to the incoming frequencies, or if your bit depth per sample is too low to handle the dynamic range (range of volumes) of the signal, you can't get a quality signal no matter how fancy your processing.


As to the frequency problem, well designed digitizers will filter out frequencies higher than 1/2 the sampling rate prior to digitizing the analog signal, just to be sure artifacts resulting from improper digitization of any such higher frequencies won't damage the lower frequency portions of the signal as now represented in digital form.


Once you HAVE your digitized stream, and now want to process it, you need to be aware that some of the math you are trying to do kind of has the effect of "creating" higher frequencies (kind of like harmonics) in the digital data. If that effect is pronounced, and if your sampling rate is too low, you will get the artifacts described above (called "aliasing"), just as if you had digitized too high frequencies to begin with. Digital "filters" in the math can suppress this.


OR you could convert everything to a higher sampling rate BEFORE you do the math!


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


OK, now the human ear can hear up to 20Khz or so. Digital sampling for CDs is thus in the 44Khz range. Should be fine.


However, people felt they were still hearing digital processing artifacts with CDs, so exotic digital audio formats pushed that up to 96Khz "just to be sure". The D2 handles such 96Khz digital streams, and since they want to make sure they aren't degrading the 96Khz stream in any fashion between input and output, they do all their internal processing at 192Khz.


Those factors of 2 times the frequency mount up fast when you compound things like this!


Since the actual input signal will vary in sampling rate from different devices, the D2 converts ("upsamples") all incoming signals to that same high rate just to simplify the rest of the design.


Does it really make a difference? Hard to say. But except for the cost of the electronics, it sure doesn't hurt.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Years ago I worked in a specialized computer facility in the desert southwest. When we built the building, we told the engineers that we were going to have lots of heat producing electronics in there and so we needed adequate air conditioning.


They asked how much heat we had to dissipate and we tallied up all the racks and multiplied by a factor of 2 for safety.


The architect then multiplied that by a factor of 2 before handing the spec over to the air conditioning designer.


The designer then multiplied by a factor of 3 -- better safe than sorry -- and handed that to the air conditioning contractor.


Who then did his standard thing of installing (and billing for) about 1.5 larger than was spec'ed.


The result was that we had air conditioning ducts with a 3 foot inner diameter at the cold air outlets into that room.


The compressor, two stories tall and built on it's own concrete pad outdoors, sprang a leak one day when the outside temperature was approaching 100 degrees F.


And it started snowing around the compressor.


It's the same thing with this upsampling in the D2. It *MIGHT* be overkill, but in any event you can be sure sampling rate is not going to be the cause of any artifacts in the audio.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stieger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Folks,
> 
> 
> Not trying to start a flame here (since I'm an AVM50 owner considering "upgrading to the D2)...
> 
> 
> What's the big deal with the D2's ability to upsample everything to 192kHz when humans can only hear to 20kHz (if we're lucky?)
> 
> 
> I know HD-audio goes to 192kHz also, but again, what's the big deal if no body on planet Earth can hear frequencies remotely close to that?
> 
> 
> I'm debating on whether to keep the AVM50, since it "only" plays to 96kHz, and don't want to be left in the cold once Anthem upgrades the processing chips in the D2 to hopefully decode DD+, TrueHD, etc. My guess is since the main difference between the 50 and the D2 is the dual-processors and 192kHz upsampling, any "upgrade" to decode the new HD-audio formats wouldn't be provided to the AVM line, since it would in essence make it then equivalent to the D2?
> 
> 
> Thoughts? You gotta wonder - if there's upgrades for decoding DD+ etc., then the AVM line would have to get 192kHz dacs.....or be left out in the cold!
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> 
> Stieger



There is nothing to feel left out in the cold about.... the DAC's in the AVM or D2 will be able to handle anything you throw at it.... As I've discussed elsewhere, as far as movie soundtracks go, over the product lifetime of the Anthem gear, you won't see films over 24/96, and you will only see a small number of 24/96 titles over the next couple of years...


As far as DD+ THD decoding, etc.... as far as HD DVD and BR, if the titles are authored in advanced mode, the players will not be able to pass the bitstream out anyways, even with HDMI 1.3... to date, all of the HD DVD titles have been authored in advanced format, and it doesn't look like it will change, so player decoding will be mandatory...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Cigarguy,

The D2, like the D1, has a temperature overlimit shutoff that should protect it if someone installs it where it can't dissipate the heat.


I believe most of the heat is near the power supply, and the temp the D2 is running should be fine if the heat is partitioned off like that.


But the video circuit board is new, and I'm not sure they've adequately dealt with heat related effects on some of that circuitry.


The problem is, since the symptoms I'm seeing are with respect to my Comcast/Motorola HD/DVR -- a well known piece of crap -- it *MAY* very well be that the D2's circuit is operating within HDMI design specs even when hot, but that it is running just a little slower (or otherwise differently) from what the Comcast box can handle -- compared to what the D2 does when it is cooler.


Technically that would be a D2 problem, but I can see how it could have escaped Anthem's testing.


And of course there could be some variation from one D2 to another.


It's still too early for me to say the D2 is not ready for prime time. But folks having continuing HDMI connection problems should experiment with an external fan -- probably positioned over near where the power cord plugs into the D2 (the hot side of the D2). If we can get enough anecdotal evidence together there may be a fix.


Since the HDMI handshake involves timing and repetition, it is even possible that the fix could be in the form of a firmware upgrade to the D2 rather than requiring them to re-engineer the box to add a fan or etc.

--Bob


----------



## stieger

Sweet guys, those 2 responses to my question(s) were terrific - thank you for putting the time in (Bob) to answer my question - I now "get it." BTW, by stating you worked in the "southwest" without really indicating where or what it was, my first thought was Area 51.....yeah?


Best,


Stieger


----------



## dsm363

Can the D2 output a different resoultion for each source (TV, DVD..etc)?

I guess I'm trying to ask how I should set things up for my new TV. I just got one of the new Sony SXRD TVs and am trying to figure out how to assign the correct output for the display.

Thanks.


Dave


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Cigarguy,
> 
> The problem is, since the symptoms I'm seeing are with respect to my Comcast/Motorola HD/DVR -- a well known piece of crap -- it *MAY* very well be that the D2's circuit is operating within HDMI design specs even when hot, but that it is running just a little slower (or otherwise differently) from what the Comcast box can handle -- compared to what the D2 does when it is cooler.
> 
> --Bob



When the D2 is hot and does not work with your Comcast box, does the D2 still work okay with other HDMI sources (e.g. DVD or other source)?


----------



## Max Spivak

dsm,


You set D2 to output the native resolution of your TV. You want all the sources to output the signal as unmolested as possible. For DVD and regular TV, that would be 480i. This would allow D2 to handle scaling of all inputs.


This topic has been discussed a lot in this thread.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

randman,

It's weird.


It works with my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD player *UNLESS* it has first failed with the Comcast box. That is, there's something about the handshake with the Comcast box that leaves the D2 in a state where the 59avi *ALSO* can't handshake with it.


I can switch to a non-HDMI source and then go back to the 59avi and that then works. The same trick, however, does not make the Comcast box work. Once the Comcast box gets unhappy, the only way to get it happy again is, apparently, to cool off the D2.


--------------------------------------------------------


UPDATE: I've had the D2 running all day -- literally -- with the larger external fan in place, and as of now there are no glitches with the Comcast box or otherwise.

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks

Bob,


I also have a Comcast (6412 connected via HDMI/DVI) box which gives me problems as well. I have the AVM 50, and I find that if I turn the 6412 off, then back on, it will fix my issues.


However, when watching my Oppo (970 connected via HDMI) DVD player set at 480i, and switch to the 6412, I lose the picture on the 6412 to a green screen. The *only* way to remedy this problem is to turn the AVM 50 off and back on.


I've read your posts about having to turn the D2 off for an extended period of time due to heat. I feel for you, as this is unacceptable. I assume this is a problem that will not go away, even with a software update. What are your thoughts on doing an exchange? What has Nick said about this problem?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yatchaks,

I haven't approached Anthem about this yet as I'm still collecting information. I'm now about 24 hours into using the D2 with the larger external fan and so far the Comcast box (a 3412 in my case) has been perfectly happy. The larger fan is noisier than I'd like, so I'll need to find a better one if this is ends up being the only solution, but for now proper operation is more important to me than room silence.


-----------------------------------------------------------


By the way these Comcast boxes are also notoriously sensitive to heat, and I believe the various generations of 6412 boxes have a poorer reputation for this than the newer 3412 box. I've got mine separated from the D2 (so there's no heat flow between them), and with it's own, smaller external fan -- in this case a laptop cooling pad turned upside down and placed on top of the Comcast box so as to suck heat up and exhaust it to the rear.


If the Comcast box is working OK by itself with the D2, then HDMI switching between the D2 and my 59avi DVD player works without a hitch in both directions (since upgrading to the V1.06 D2 software). I.e., if I can switch channels between SDTV (480i output) and HDTV (1080i output) on the Comcast with no problems, then switching to and from the 59avi (480i output) also works just peachy.


If the Comcast box is NOT working, then turning it off completely (i.e, disconnecting from wall power) and letting it cool while the D2 remains turned on, apparently does NOT fix the problem although I will need more instances of failure to feel confident about this statement. Also if the Comcast box is failing, turning off the D2 completely (disconnecting from wall power) and turning it back on after 30 seconds or so, ALSO does not fix the problem. Of course 30 seconds is not adequate time for the D2 to cool, but should be plenty if it's just a power reset issue.


-------------------------------------------------


At this point I remain hopeful that Anthem will find a firmware solution to adjust the D2's HDMI handshake timing so as to be more robust at operating temperature.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

Does something like the Parasound Zbreeze look like it would be good for cooling the D2? Does the AVM50 get hot also?


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does something like the Parasound Zbreeze look like it would be good for cooloing the D2? Does the AVM50 get hot also?



Greetings,


The AVM 50 also gets pretty warm after extended use. I have not had any heat related issues with my AVM 50.


I have had some minor HDMI related glitches with my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR/HD STB. It was recently upgraded to the 2.5.066 software which seemed to cause a few minor problems.


One of the issues is that sometimes when switching HD channels from a 1080i broadcast to a 720p broadcast the Anthem's display would still show the incoming signal as 1080i. The cable box display would show the correct signal. This could be corrected by switching channels sometimes or switching to another input on the Anthem and then back again.


Twice I have gotten the green screen and had to power the unit off and back on to correct it. Both times this happend when switching from a 480i signal to a 1080i or 720p signal.


I had some problems with SD channels not reproducing audio. This was corrected only by switching to another input and then back again. I found out that this was corrected by switching the "Auto Dig " setting from Yes to No in the setup menu.


Again these issues are minor when compared to those that others have faced with their cable boxes.


These issues never arise when using other HDMI sources.


Regards,


----------



## stieger

folks,


I live my AVM50 - couldn't be happier with the unit and the gennum chip. I had an XA1 paired with a Pioneer Elite Receiver, and thought the video looked ok, but the gennum chip scaling my 'plain-jane" Denon dvd player to 720P is awesome.


2 questions:


Anyone know the least expensive 1080P PJ available today with street price?


Is there any advantage to buying an HD-Tivo box running through the Anthem vs. buying a Tivo with S-video out - I assume the video once scaled would look identical going through Anthem, so not sure why someone with the Anthem units would buy an HD-Tivo box vs. a plain one...


Best,


Stieger


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There's no comparison between S-video out and what you can get with either Component out or HDMI out to the D2. Both Component and HDMI out yield a significantly higher bandwidth signal -- better spatial resolution AND better colors. And this is just for SDTV!


And of course if you are Tivoing HDTV you will need an HD-Tivo and you will need Component or HDMI out to pass the higher resolution. S-Video goes no higher than 480i -- not even 480p.


S-Video beats "Composite" video, and of course it beats video modulated to tune in on regular TV channels 3 or 4. But S-Video, even for just SDTV, is inferior to Component video or a digitial video connection (HDMI or DVI).


Using S-Video will reduce image quality (compared to Component or HDMI) in ways the D2 can't recover.

--Bob


----------



## stieger

I have an HD-Tivo "downstairs" and could just run a 40ft HDMI cable (if that makes sense without signal degradation) through the wall, over the theater ceiling, and into the theater. IF I do that, would I also need some sort of IR repeater for the HD-Tivo so while I sit in my theater I can skip all the commercials - otherwise I'm not sure how I would be able to skip commercials.


Best,


Stieger


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Anyone know the least expensive 1080P PJ available today with street price?




Greetings,


Steiger, glad to hear that you are enjoying the AVM-50. The least expensive 1080p I believe is the Sony VPL-VW100 aka the "Ruby". It streets for around 8K.



I agree with Bob in that there is no way to compare S Video to Component/HDMI even is processed by the Anthem.



Regards,


----------



## mjavman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The problem is, since the symptoms I'm seeing are with respect to my Comcast/Motorola HD/DVR -- a well known piece of crap -- it *MAY* very well be that the D2's circuit is operating within HDMI design specs even when hot, but that it is running just a little slower (or otherwise differently) from what the Comcast box can handle -- compared to what the D2 does when it is cooler.
> 
> 
> Technically that would be a D2 problem, but I can see how it could have escaped Anthem's testing.
> 
> 
> And of course there could be some variation from one D2 to another.
> 
> 
> It's still too early for me to say the D2 is not ready for prime time. But folks having continuing HDMI connection problems should experiment with an external fan -- probably positioned over near where the power cord plugs into the D2 (the hot side of the D2). If we can get enough anecdotal evidence together there may be a fix.
> 
> --Bob



I want to thank everyone in this forum. I have been reading for weeks and you all are fantastic. I'm on the verge of getting a D2, but have been holding off pending you all identifying the source of the HDMI issues. I eagerly await the results of your tests. 1 comment, 1 question:


1) a cheap solution on the fan side could be the Zallman or Arctic cool fans that are used for HTPCs. Can probably get some of those at a local computer store and test it with a 12v battery if need be.


2) For those that do have a successful D2 install that is problem free, is your unit in an area that gets lots of circulation or has limited usage?


----------



## stieger

(mjavman)


Don't wait, go order one - it's that good (and I "only" have the 50!!)


Stieger


----------



## elmac

mjavman

I have a D2

With no problems

My D2 is in the open and it has nothing above it

after using it for about 4 hrs it does get warm but not hot

hope this helps


----------



## tycoondog2

why does it seem that some peoples D2 run warm and

some people say they are to hot even to touch. Bob can

you tell me how your unit is set up? You look like you have

done a lot of testing.


Elmac


I noticed with your Rotel it was in your unit

your photo of the D2 has it on top of the unit

and in the open. Is it still set up that way?

did you put it where the Rotel was and it got to hot?


Thanks.


----------



## obie_fl

My D2 is in an open rack. It does get pretty warm after a while but I would guess it is about the same temperature as my previous HDLeeza video processor. I think the key here is if you are placing it in an enclosed rack you may want to look into supplemental cooling.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Elmac
> 
> 
> I noticed with your Rotel it was in your unit
> 
> your photo of the D2 has it on top of the unit
> 
> and in the open. Is it still set up that way?
> 
> did you put it where the Rotel was and it got to hot?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Rotel was moved to the top also and DVD player and SA8300hd went to that opening.

The reason why I moved it to the top that it was easier to upgrade 1098. In 1098 you had to flip dip switches to get it to upgrade and they where hidden behind screw in cover. So every time I try to upgrade it had come out.

It took rotel 7 upgrades to get it working correct after the second upgrade I made a decision to keep it up top.

BTW 1098 run at the same temperature as D2

So I'm not really concern with temperature on D2

D2 went in the same place after that


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tycoondog2,

My D2 is set on a shelf in a cabinet with about 6 inches air space above and 3 inches to either side. The cabinet is open to the rear and glass paneled in the front. There is no other heat source near it.


The temperature of the D2's case is less a concern than the ambient temperature around the D2 (air and cabinet surfaces), since that's what determines how much heat it will be able to dissipate through radiation and convection.


When things reach steady state, without an external fan, the surfaces and air inside the cabinet warm to about 96 degrees. The smaller fan I tried lowered that to about 90 degrees. The larger fan lowered that to about 85 degrees.


I've been at home for the past few days while contractors were working on other things, and I've been running the unit continuously during the day. So far no problems with the larger fan.


In a week or so I'll try another experiment where I put the D2 at the bottom of a double shelf space so that it will have over a foot of air space above it -- all open to the rear, and see how that works without an external fan.


Note that the ONLY problem the D2 exhibits when allowed to get warmer is this HDMI connnection issue. The D2 has never issued it's "too hot" warning or shown any other signs of being heat stressed even without the fan.

--Bob


----------



## tycoondog2

This is good to know. I have an open rack with 2 inches on the side and 4 above which I could increase to six. Now what would be nice for my Toshiba HDDVD. It can tell the difference between HDDVD and DVD it would be nice if in the menu you could select the out put format for each in the menu. 480I for DVD and 1080I for HDDVD. It should not be to hard to for Toshiba to do this. Thats of course if they can get the hdmi to output 480I


----------



## mjavman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been at home for the past few days while contractors were working on other things, and I've been running the unit continuously during the day. So far no problems with the larger fan.
> 
> 
> Note that the ONLY problem the D2 exhibits when allowed to get warmer is this HDMI connnection issue. The D2 has never issued it's "too hot" warning or shown any other signs of being heat stressed even without the fan.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


So it sounds like with the fans you have not been experiencing any more HDMI problems? I don't want to jump to conclusions, but it sounds like this may be a fix. If that is the case I'll put my order in for my D2 today. I too have contractors at my house and they are starting the install of the my theater equipment cabniets next week. I will redesign to put a fan behind to force better air circulation.


Thanks everyone, I'm sure I will reach out to get everyone's opinion on my final equipment design. It has been 5 months in the works (and reading here) and deciding on the central pre/pro and video processor has been the only remaining peice.


The D2 now will be at the center of everything. It will include a HTPC (connected to an E86 with R5000 mods) via DVI to HDMI to D2, a 480i DVD player, HD-DVD, H20 D* box, 5.1 (I just didn't have space for 7.1), and to start a sammy 61" 1080p dlp (with the intention of goint to the panansonic 65" 1080p next year after it has been out a while). The whole thing will be on a gigabit backbone with an Infrant ReadyNAS terrabyte server and media players on my other 2 TVs in the house.


I almost can't wait!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

mjavman,

It's still early days, but I'm cautiously optimistic that what I'm doing with an external fan, or reconfiguring the cabinet to give the D2 more exposure to the open back side will be a fix even if Anthem provides no further adjustment via new firmware.


Now understand that every now and again the Comcast box still gets confused all on its own. This happens in one of two ways. First, it sometimes fails to connect at the different resolution when switching between 480i and 1080i. This is different from the hard failure in that it is easily fixed by just changing channels again to the other resolution and back. The symptom here is either no connection or a connection at the "wrong" output resolution for the given channel. No connection is obvious of course, but seeing HDTV at 480i or SDTV upscaled by the Comcast to 1080i is less obvious unless you watch the input resolution displayed on the D2's front panel. Again, just changing channels again cures this particular screwup.


Second, for reasons I've yet to fathom, the Comcast box will revert to it's default settings overnight even though it is continuously on (and power is battery backed up so there's no possibility of loss of wall power). The symptom is that the Comcast reverts to 4:3 Letterbox and 480i output. When it does this, the fix is to power off the Comcast so as to get to its output settings menu to put things back where they are supposed to be.


I can only assume it is doing this because the D2 is powered off overnight, but it doesn't ALWAYS do this. It doesn't do this while the D2 is powered on -- presuming there is a good HDMI connection. Short term power downs of the D2 never produce this problem and sometimes even overnight power downs of the D2 don't result in this. It seems to be about a 50/50 proposition of whether I'll need to redo the Comcast settings after the D2's been powered off overnight.


My belief is that both of these problems are squarely in the Comcast and not in the D2.


So if you are using one of these Comcast boxes, don't expect a completely effortless experience. But the HARD failures -- the really annoying HDMI connection problems that seem to be D2 heat related -- have not happened in my setup since I switched to the larger external fan 2 days ago.

--Bob


----------



## stieger

folks,


Quick comment and question:


I have Triad inRoom gold speakers, which will "comfortably" play to about 60hz. I have the center channel on a stand, sitting on the floor. I'm not sure if it's just my setup, but the center channel seems boomy to me. Was watching Batman Begins last night, and when batman makes it to the top of the mountain and Liam Neeson starts beating on him, the audio is pretty tough to hear exactly what they are saying.


I've tried changing the crossover for the center, and also tried the center EQ from the 'small tv" to the "large tv" ....


Does anyone have a good remedy for a center channel on the floor? Should I make the crossover setting 100+ (seems odd since it'll play lower than that...)


My other real question - does anybody know when an actual "room eq" will be coming out? I just replaced a Pioneer Elite receiver which had room eq, and it did wonders for my center channel - vocals were much more intelligible......


Thinking about picking up a digital EQ (Behringer DEQ24/96) until Anthem releases something...


Stieger


----------



## Bob Pariseau

stieger,

You could easily have a room resonance which is causing this.


Setting your Center speaker to "small" is probably best even though it can go down that far. Let your subwoofer carry the bass instead. Don't set the cross-over for your main speakers too low even though they are spec'ed to go down there. They won't handle the low end as efficiently as your subwoofer.


Now use the D2's Room Bass EQ option along with a Radio Shack sound pressure level (SPL) meter. It only takes a few moments to get a reading for the various frequencies. This will tell you where your room resonances are. You can use the one notch filter provided in the D2's feature to tackle one of them and use the separately adjustable cross-overs to tackle another near the cross-over point. E.g. if your room is boomy near the cross-over then raise the cross over level in your main speakers and lower it in the subwoofer. These are not hard cutoffs so you'll still get plenty of bass in the "gap" in between.


Play around a bit and I think you'lll find the D2 offers you pretty good flexibility to tackle this even without an "automatic" system. You will likely *NOT* be able to do this effectively by ear alone however. Go spend the $50 to get the Radio Shack sound meter. It's well worth it. You'll also be able to use it to refine the basic level setting between all your speakers.

--Bob


----------



## stieger

Hi Bob,


thanks for the info - I will try increasing the crossover of the center and setting it to small - I think I have it on "large" right now.


Anybody know what exactly (frequencies, amount of boost or cutoff) the center EQ does when set from the smallest (I think it's 18" - 32" tv) to the largest? Just wondering if that can also be used to help increase/decrease the boominess of the center.


Thx again!


Stieger


----------



## mjavman

Stieger brings up a good point that I haven't considered, the right speakers to match my D2. I'm loathe to bring it up as I know it can open up the whole di-pole mono-pole issue.


However, the NHT L5s had been reccomended to me and I was going to go with these for all 5 channels. Am I making a mistake and how will these match up to the D2, or worse the same speaker for all 5 channels? (I know this should probably be in the speaker section, but as I said everything revolves around the D2).


Additionally I planned on going with an Anthem PV5 for the amp, as I made the assumption that staying in brand would mean it was good match for the D2.


----------



## mjavman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> mjavman,
> 
> It's still early days, but I'm cautiously optimistic that what I'm doing with an external fan, or reconfiguring the cabinet to give the D2 more exposure to the open back side will be a fix even if Anthem provides no further adjustment via new firmware.
> 
> 
> So if you are using one of these Comcast boxes, don't expect a completely effortless experience. But the HARD failures -- the really annoying HDMI connection problems that seem to be D2 heat related -- have not happened in my setup since I switched to the larger external fan 2 days ago.
> 
> --Bob



So noted, good news/bad news is that I CAN'T get cable. I live in the country and comcast doesn't think cornfields are a cost effective place to lay cable. Funny part is they had to tear apart the front of my yard next to the street to pull fiber to a subdivision built in the old cornfield 2 miles down the road. So I'm stuck using DirecTV and OTA. I suspect, though, from what I've read that the new H20 (DirecTV Mpeg 4) box has its own set of problems and will send the D2 into fits. I already found that out, I can't use a digiplexer to bring in OTA on a single line.


-Marc


----------



## randman

The D2 comes with the Gennum GF9350 VCP chip. I noticed from Gennum's web site that they have come out with a newer chip, the GF9351:

http://www.gennum.com/ip/press/CES_2...9351_press.pdf 


The press release says:


"The GF9351 enables VXP technology to be deployed in systems where heat

dissipation can be a problem, especially high-definition flat-panel TVs and home

theatre projectors. Pin-out, package and software compatibility with the GF9350

allows an easy upgrade path for existing customers and enables a single, highend

image processing platform for a wide range of consumer electronics

products."


Granted, projectors may run quite warm, especially due to the bulb. Oh well, the press release is dated Janury 4, 2006 (probably CES-related press release) so it was probably too late in the D2's development cycle to include...


----------



## stieger

....Moore's Law...


technology doubles or advances and its costs of production falls in half every 18 months....such is life in this fun hobby. I'm going home to watch a movie!! No kids -



Hey, anybody know what the "center EQ" actually does - what cutoff or boost it gives at each of the options?


Stieger


----------



## Steve Goff

The GF9351 works as a pin-for-pin replacement of the GF9350, so there is no reason it can't be substituted for the older chip.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'd be surprised if the VXP chip has anything to do with implementing the HDMI handshake.

--Bob


----------



## Joe C5

Anyone know when the upgrades for the D1's will be available? I asked Nick, but he was obviously very busy and didn't really understand my question (I think he thought I was asking about firmware upgrades). I don't want to pester him again since I suspect the volume of email he gets is enormous.


----------



## Nathan_R

Another retarded question....


I'd like to use an external source to calibrate audio, rather than the AVM-50's internal test tones. How can I calibrate the AVM-50 with VE, DVE, or Avia and have control over the individual speaker level adjustments?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Another retarded question....
> 
> 
> I'd like to use an external source to calibrate audio, rather than the AVM-50's internal test tones. How can I calibrate the AVM-50 with VE, DVE, or Avia and have control over the individual speaker level adjustments?



Nathan... I don't believe that you can do that.. but why would you want to? You need to first set up the D2 using it's tones so you have a reference to based your VE, DVE or Avia changes to...


The only way to do an accurate calbration is to use the internal noise, adjust all speakers to match, and then adjust each source component after that.... you're chasing your tail if you don't.


----------



## Nathan_R

But how can I adjust each source component's audio if I have nothing but the AVM-50's internal noise as reference?


My old Integra 9.1 had the ability to adjust individual speaker levels outside of the setup menus and without being handcuffed to the processor's internal noise. This would allow me to calibrate based on VE's test tones, which in my experience was far more accurate than built-in test tones. I see the Anthem has the ability to adjust Fronts on the fly, but I see no way to change FL and FR independently.


----------



## abc999

You can write down the level of each channel and adjust accordingly via the listening level menu and then try again to verify results


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But how can I adjust each source component's audio if I have nothing but the AVM-50's internal noise as reference?
> 
> 
> My old Integra 9.1 had the ability to adjust individual speaker levels outside of the setup menus and without being handcuffed to the processor's internal noise. This would allow me to calibrate based on VE's test tones, which in my experience was far more accurate than built-in test tones. I see the Anthem has the ability to adjust Fronts on the fly, but I see no way to change FL and FR independently.



Cal with the D2 tones and get 75dB (or whatever you are using) out of all speakers.. then put VE into whatever transport you are using... you then cal the _players_ outputs to give you the same readings out of all speakers.. that's why the DVD players have output level controls for the different channels


I understand your intent and reasoning, but how do you know that the DVD player or sounce unit is at the proper levels? Using the DVD tones, you could just tweak the output level of the DVD and it would get you the same result... but you have no reference... IMO, you need to use the D2 tones as your starting reference..


Here's another point... the tones off of VE could be different for each player you play them out of... and each player might be different on it's digital and analog outputs, but since you have no baseline, you are not sure where the reference is.. My HD-A1 and 79avi are different, and if I used them to cal with, it would change with each player... also, how do I know that my sat receiver, which has no tones, is properly set up? The only way I can know is if I set the D2 using it's internal tones first, and then adjust the source components in their respective output menus...


As far as accuracy, I don't really see how you can say that source generated tones are more accurate that processor tones, at lease as far as the Anthem products are.... for a receiver to be THX certified, the tones must be accurate for setting reference level to gain that certification.. i.e. the D2 and AVM's


Every day that I mix, the first thing we do is to pink the room with pink noise from the console... we then check the tones from the playback machines and adjust them as needed...


----------



## abc999

I think we have to assume that Anthem's internal tone generator is accurate. From there, you can get a reference level(say the center channel) using VE and note the difference and adjust the level of each component via anthem's setup options.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think we have to assume that Anthem's internal tone generator is accurate. From there, you can get a reference level(say the center channel) using VE and note the difference and adjust the level of each component via anthem's setup options.



Except that you still can't assume that all channels will be accurate on each device... to do it right, I say cal the D2, then each unit, using your method to get then trims set on the D2, and then check all relative balances per source deck..


FYI: From the D2 Manual:



> Quote:
> 3.4 Speaker Level Calibration
> 
> 
> Speaker Level Calibration uses internal test noises to match the relatvie level of each speaker at the listening position. Use of noises from home theater setup discs is not recommended - some use incorrect methods.



I guess they are pretty confident of their tones


----------



## Bob Pariseau

HDMI Connection saga continues....


Well now I'm confused again.


I had another hard failure of HDMI connection tonight -- still with the large external fan cooling the D2 (and working just fine accoding to my temperature measurements). All the usual symptoms were present: The Comcast wouldn't make a good HDMI connection either at 480i or 1080i. The 59avi DVD player on the other hand worked just fine at HDMI 480i. Short power cycles of the D2 and/or Comcast didn't fix it. Etc.


Except this time, just for a lark, I decided to see if turning off the Comcast for an extended period would have any effect.


I left the D2 powered on and unplugged the Comcast from wall power for an hour. And voila the problem was gone!


So it isn't a whole box temperature issue in the D2 (it remained powered on and thus had no chance to cool).


It could be a temperature issue in the Comcast box, but with the small external fan I'm using with it, the Comcast is quite cool after hours of use.


Or it could be a localized temperature issue in the D2 where the HDMI circuit itself is reacting to the signal passing through it -- and thus cooled when the Comcast was turned off leaving it with no signal.


Or it could be this whole temperature thing is a red herring after all!


Next time it happens, I'll try shorter power resets of the Comcast.


But at this point I'm theorizing the issue is in the Comcast itself -- perhaps something which keeps it from recognizing the "repeater = OFF" in the D2. I suppose it's possible the repeater=OFF logic in the D2 is intermittant (and thus the 59avi works since it handles repeater=ON just fine). But why turning off the Comcast would make the D2 work right again is beyond me.

--Bob


----------



## randman

Blaine had mentioned earlier in this thread that he could not get his Velodyne SMS-1's OSD (on-screen display) to show up when connected to the D2. I have the same problem.


My Velodyne SMS-1's S-Video output is connected to my D2. When using the D2's HDMI output, I do not see the SMS-1's OSD. However, when using the D2's S-Video output, I can see the SMS-1's OSD just fine. I have other S-Video sources (e.g. a VCR and a TiVo). Their video shows up fine using the D2's HDMI output. However, the Velodyne's OSD doesn't show up in the D2's HDMI output. It only shows up in the D2's S-Video output. Anyone else have this problem, and what the resolution was?


Thanks.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But at this point I'm theorizing the issue is in the Comcast itself -- perhaps something which keeps it from recognizing the "repeater = OFF" in the D2. I suppose it's possible the repeater=OFF logic in the D2 is intermittant (and thus the 59avi works since it handles repeater=ON just fine). But why turning off the Comcast would make the D2 work right again is beyond me.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


You get extra points for perseverance! Every time I see your Comcast posts I know I probably did the right thing on leaving it component. (Heck it wouldn't work right for me with nothing in the loop).


Tim


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Blaine had mentioned earlier in this thread that he could not get his Velodyne SMS-1's OSD (on-screen display) to show up when connected to the D2. I have the same problem.
> 
> 
> My Velodyne SMS-1's S-Video output is connected to my D2. When using the D2's HDMI output, I do not see the SMS-1's OSD. However, when using the D2's S-Video output, I can see the SMS-1's OSD just fine. I have other S-Video sources (e.g. a VCR and a TiVo). Their video shows up fine using the D2's HDMI output. However, the Velodyne's OSD doesn't show up in the D2's HDMI output. It only shows up in the D2's S-Video output. Anyone else have this problem, and what the resolution was?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



It's strange that the SMS-1's S-Video output can't be "upconverted" to HDMI output.... This issue may not be unique to the D2. I noticed in the Velodyne thread that someone else has a problem with the SMS-1 when used with their Yamaha receiver:


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...eo#post7905260


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's strange that the SMS-1's S-Video output can't be "upconverted" to HDMI output.... This issue may not be unique to the D2. I noticed in the Velodyne thread that someone else has a problem with the SMS-1 when used with their Yamaha receiver:
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...eo#post7905260




Isn't is just simple enought to plug the SMS-1 to the TV or are we getting at a bigger problem?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

randman,

I presume you've double checked that your Scaler Input setting in the Setup menu for that input is in fact set to S-Video, right? And that the S-Video setting in that same menu specifies the D2 S-Video jack you are actually plugged in to?


Have you tried playing with the Video Source Adjustment / Picture/ Video ADC menu items that were added in the V1.06 software? These are intended to help deal with anomolous S-Video signals that are causing problems when converted to digital.


Also be sure the S-Video plug is fully inserted into the D2. Like HDMI, these too have a tendency to work loose under cable weight, etc.


For more info on what the D2 is seeing as the video input, see the Info panel in Video Source Adjustment (under the "7" key). You can also get status info by repeatedly pressing Select/OK on the remote.


I'll be interested in what you find here, since I'm considering a Velodyne DD series subwoofer that works the same way for OSD.

--Bob


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> randman,
> 
> Have you tried playing with the Video Source Adjustment / Picture/ Video ADC menu items that were added in the V1.06 software? These are intended to help deal with anomolous S-Video signals that are causing problems when converted to digital.
> 
> --Bob



I've checked everything, and all is setup like it should be, except I haven't yet played with the Video Source Adjustment/Picture/Video ADC that you mentioned above. I'll try that later. Note that the Velodyne's output can be seen if I use the D2's S-Video output. It's only if I use the D2's HDMI output that I have trouble with. So, until I figure this out, I do have the workaround of using the D2's S-Video output. Aside: the SMS-1 (and the DD series in general) is great for smoothing out bass response.


----------



## drmabuse

I am a recent owner of a D2 - 2 weeks now and I am experiencing a problem with the video output that I am wondering if anyone has had a similar issue or a suggestion. I have emailed Nick and he responded but he was having trouble recreating my problem.

I am currently watching the D2 video output on a Toshiba 65"WS which is coming up on 6 years old.

I can only get a picture at all when I select either the 720x480p output or the 1920x1080i outputs but I have issues on either.

In the 720 setting my DVD player (Denon 3910) outputs fine but my HD PVR appears fuzzy and zoomed - this makes sense to me.

When I select the 1920 setting my DVD picture is now off centre and fuzzy/zoomed while the HD signal is good.

I am very new to this "video switching" arena and am at a bit of a quandry - I have plans to upgrade to a 1080p projector but not for a few months and would like the ability to switch both DVD & HD within the D2.

Can anyone provide any insight? I REALLY appreciate it!

/\\/\\


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> FYI: From the D2 Manual:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess they are pretty confident of their tones



FilmMixer, I apologize if I seemed antagonistic in my posts. In re-reading them, I could see how they could have been read. That was not my intent.










If Anthem is confident in their test tones, then that works for me. I suppose it speaks volumes (no pun intended) on the inadequacy of my old DTR-9.1's internal tones.


My issue with the Anthem was that I calibrated my speaker levels to the best of my ability using the internal noise and a SPL meter. However, I just wasn't satisfied with the LS and RS levels when watching HD DVDs. To my ears, the left surround channel always seems about 4db higher than the right, but my SPL shows they're both spot on reference with the test tones. I was hoping I could compensate "externally" for that. Of course, in all reality, I know in my heart of hearts that it's due to reflections in my room and I'll have to live with it or redo my furniture arrangement or add some acoustical treatments.


Thanks again for the explanation. I DO feel better now.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FilmMixer, I apologize if I seemed antagonistic in my posts. In re-reading them, I could see how they could have been read. That was not my intent.



Nathan.... I sensed nothing of the kind







I thought I was missing something in your reasoning...


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI Connection saga continues....
> 
> 
> Well now I'm confused again.
> 
> 
> I had another hard failure of HDMI connection tonight -- still with the large external fan cooling the D2 (and working just fine accoding to my temperature measurements). All the usual symptoms were present: The Comcast wouldn't make a good HDMI connection either at 480i or 1080i. The 59avi DVD player on the other hand worked just fine at HDMI 480i. Short power cycles of the D2 and/or Comcast didn't fix it. Etc.
> 
> 
> Except this time, just for a lark, I decided to see if turning off the Comcast for an extended period would have any effect.
> 
> 
> I left the D2 powered on and unplugged the Comcast from wall power for an hour. And voila the problem was gone!
> 
> 
> So it isn't a whole box temperature issue in the D2 (it remained powered on and thus had no chance to cool).
> 
> 
> It could be a temperature issue in the Comcast box, but with the small external fan I'm using with it, the Comcast is quite cool after hours of use.
> 
> 
> Or it could be a localized temperature issue in the D2 where the HDMI circuit itself is reacting to the signal passing through it -- and thus cooled when the Comcast was turned off leaving it with no signal.
> 
> 
> Or it could be this whole temperature thing is a red herring after all!
> 
> 
> Next time it happens, I'll try shorter power resets of the Comcast.
> 
> 
> But at this point I'm theorizing the issue is in the Comcast itself -- perhaps something which keeps it from recognizing the "repeater = OFF" in the D2. I suppose it's possible the repeater=OFF logic in the D2 is intermittant (and thus the 59avi works since it handles repeater=ON just fine). But why turning off the Comcast would make the D2 work right again is beyond me.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Have you done a close visual inspection of the HDMI jacks on the D2 as well as your HDMI cable plugs? You may have some slight damage that causes erratic behavior (and maybe even temperature sensitive). Especially look for distortion of the pins on the underside of the wafer on the D2 HDMI jacks, which seems to be the most vulnerable area.


It doesn't take very long (if your unit and cables are accessible) to make this inspection. If all looks OK at least you have eliminated one of the common failure areas.


As you know I have had serious problems in this area (awaiting my 4th D2 unit) but ascribe most of this to a poor design choice for the D2 HDMI jacks that is different from that on my other equipment (which have not failed or been easily damaged). Whether Anthem are going to change to a better designed jack or not, I don't know. But, in my opinion(as a physicist/engineer/manager at a large public company that provides commercial computer aided engineering analysis software -structural, thermal, and fluid mechanics) this will certainly continue to be an Achilles heel of the D2 until they do. I am also concerned about the heat issues as well.


Maybe Anthem would be interested in doing some analyses of their problems (thermal management, mechanical failure of the jacks, etc.). After I get my next D2, maybe I'll sic our local Canadian rep on them to sell them software or consulting.










Having said the above, it is also clear that HDMI and its implementation(in the D2 and elsewhere) in itself is rather quirky. Not everything is necessarily a thermal/mechanical problem.


----------



## Nathan_R

Question for Toshiba HD DVD owners: did you change the HDMI 6Ch Map from Auto to anything else on the Anthem for your HD DVD player's HDMI feed? I wonder if my odd sound levels from the LS channel (and almost a lack of RS entirely) are due to some strange mapping from the Toshiba to the Anthem.


Has anyone else noticed this?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question for Toshiba HD DVD owners: did you change the HDMI 6Ch Map from Auto to anything else on the Anthem for your HD DVD player's HDMI feed? I wonder if my odd sound levels from the LS channel (and almost a lack of RS entirely) are due to some strange mapping from the Toshiba to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else noticed this?



No... I didn't do any remapping.. I thought that function was only for DVD-A players/issues.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nkb,

I strongly doubt it is a connector issue since my current setup can now work for days before a failure occurs. The HDMI inputs and outputs of the D2 have been plugged into precisely once when I did my initial setup, and the cables have no strain on them.


My current theory, pending further experiment, is that there are actually two separate problems here. The first, I believe, really is D2 temperature related and has been fixed by my use of an external fan. The root cause may still be the Comcast, with the D2 being robust enough to keep the flakey Comcast working anyway -- but not quite robust enough at warm D2 operating temperature.


The second appears to be Comcast power-on-time related and is, I suspect, just another example of the shoddy hardware and software engineering in that box. I suspect the Comcast loses the ability to execute the HDMI handshake properly after so many hours of continuous operation -- quite possibly due to software using up some resource, such as internal memory, and not restoring it properly. The Comcast doesn't actually shut down when you power it off. You have to actually sever its connection to wall power to shut down it's internal programming.


There are other examples in the Comcast HD/DVR threads regarding the need to periodically (approx. every 2 weeks) disconnect the Comcast from wall power or it will get too sluggish to use and will show other faults. I suspect this second class of HDMI failure falls into the same category.


If so, a modest power disconnect of the Comcast -- a minute or two -- should make the problem go away for a few days. Such a result would show it is not Comcast temperature related (since the problem doesn't return in a few minutes), but rather it is a Comcast power reset issue.


I'll try that next time it fails.


--------------------------------------------------------------


I'll very likely end up using the Comcast on Component Video in the end anyway. But I want to understand this better so that I know how much I can rely on the D2 for HDMI switching for other devices in the future. That's why I'm keeping on with this.

--Bob


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am a recent owner of a D2 - 2 weeks now and I am experiencing a problem with the video output that I am wondering if anyone has had a similar issue or a suggestion. I have emailed Nick and he responded but he was having trouble recreating my problem.
> 
> I am currently watching the D2 video output on a Toshiba 65"WS which is coming up on 6 years old.
> 
> I can only get a picture at all when I select either the 720x480p output or the 1920x1080i outputs but I have issues on either.
> 
> In the 720 setting my DVD player (Denon 3910) outputs fine but my HD PVR appears fuzzy and zoomed - this makes sense to me.
> 
> When I select the 1920 setting my DVD picture is now off centre and fuzzy/zoomed while the HD signal is good.
> 
> I am very new to this "video switching" arena and am at a bit of a quandry - I have plans to upgrade to a 1080p projector but not for a few months and would like the ability to switch both DVD & HD within the D2.
> 
> Can anyone provide any insight? I REALLY appreciate it!
> 
> /\\/\\



Is this a rental HD box

If it is see if you can change it to the new one and test it again

I'm assuming this is a rogers box.

If it is some of them have problems, did you try Component out, out of your PVR box and see if makes a difference


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drmabuse,

Off hand it sounds like you have your TV plugged into the D2's Zone 2 Component output instead of the Main output and the D2's scaler is set to not process Zone 2 output (video goes through unscaled by the D2).


So first make sure your TV is properly connect to a "Main" D2 output -- either Component or HDMI.


You may also have your two source devices configured improperly in the D2 so that the wrong input signal from each is being sent to the scaler.


----------------------------------------------------------------


Start with the basics. First set the D2 to output properly to your TV, then worry about the source settings.


Find out what video resolutions your TV is able to handle by checking its manual. Some TVs limit only one input jack to high-res signals or limit which high-res signals they can handle. Don't confuse the "720" in 720x480i with the 720p resolution used for HDTV. 720x480i is a 480i signal -- standard definition TV. 1280x720p and 1920x1080i are the two broadcast HDTV resolutions.


Set the D2 to output an HD resolution the TV can handle in the Setup / Video Output menu. Some D2 resolutions allow you to choose between different "frame rates". Pick a resolution and frame rate combo your TV can handle. For example, a typical HDTV-ready TV in the US will accept a 1920x1080i 60Hz signal [automatically converting that internally, as necessary, to its "native" display resolution].


While you are in that menu, turn "Component 2 Out:" to "OFF" just to make sure you are not getting confused by seeing things through a Zone 2 video output. If you ARE plugged into the Zone 2 output, accepting this change will mean your TV picture goes away. You can still make D2 menu changes via what's displayed on the D2's front panel.


[Note: Your best results will be to match the D2's output to the "native" resolution of your TV so your TV's internal scaler has no work to do. But for now let's keep things simple and stick with the "normal" HDTV resolutions.]


When you finally accept that change the Setup menu should still display "properly" on your TV. You can do this even with all your sources disconnected or turned off. If the Setup menu is way off center or cropped or the wrong color (Ghastly Green or Shocking Pink) you need to make other adjustments in the Setup / Video Output menu to properly match the D2's video output to what your display can handle.


Once the Setup menu looks right at your selected high definition resolution, back out of the Setup menu and select a D2 input that is not connected to anything. You should see an all blue screen (since the D2 is receiving no input signal for that source). Press and hold the "7" key on the D2 remote to bring up the Video Source adjustment menu. That menu should appear centered and crisp. Scroll over to the Info panel and verify that the D2 is sending the resolution you told it to send to your TV. Scroll back to the Pattern panel and select on of the D2's internal test patterns. They should fill your screen (slight off-center or slight width or height issues probably mean your TV's image centering controls need to be adjusted).


Again you can do all this without ANY source devices.


And if all of this looks right then the D2 is properly set to send the selected high resolution signal to your TV and your TV is handling that signal just fine. You should need to make no further changes here as it is the D2's job to process whatever it receives as video input and convert it to your specified video output.


--------------------------------------------------------------


For each source device you need to:


1) Cable it properly. Keep in mind that you can't send HDTV over, say, S-video cables for example.


2) Configure the input on the D2 to look at the video input sockets on the back of the D2 you have actually used for that source device. Each selectable input (i.e., the buttons on the bottom of the D2 remote) can be separately configured as to which sockets it looks at for video input. This selection is done in the D2's Setup / Source Setup/Presets menu for each source. You tell the source what video stream to send to the D2's scaler, and for component, S-video, and composite video streams you separately specify which input plug to use (HDMI input plugs are selected in the scaler setting menu item itself).


3) For each source, since your TV is a widescreen TV, go to the proper source device menu and tell the source device that it is talking to a wide screen (16:9) TV. If your source also produces 4:3 content (e.g., SDTV channels on a cable box, or older movies on a DVD), it is best to tell the source to *NOT* add black pillar box bars on either side of the image to restore it to the 4:3 shape. Let the D2 do that instead.


4) Select the "best" output resolution for each source. For sources playing SDTV content (includes standard DVD players), your best choice here will be 480i output -- e.g., let the D2 do ALL the de-interlacing and scaling. [If you are using DVI cabling, you will not have 480i as an option. Rather than selecting 480p (and thus losing the advantages of the D2's de-interlacer), consider switching to Component cabling at 480i.] For sources playing HDTV content (e.g., HDTV set top boxes and the new HD/DVD and Blue Ray DVD players playing high res disks), that will either by 720p or 1080i resolution.


5) For each source, set it to play something, select that source device as the D2's input, and then press and hold the "7" key on the D2 to bring up the D2's Video Source Adjustment menu for that input. The default settings in this menu should work fine to begin, but if you are having problems with any or your sources, here is where you will make D2 changes to deal with it.


6) For each source, you can, for example, view the Info panel under this menu to see what the D2 is seeing as input resolution and what it is sending to your display as output resolution. You already know from the steps above that the D2 knows how to send a proper signal to your TV. So any problems left to fix are input setting related and not output setting related.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------


The idea here is that the D2 not only lets you select between your sources, but it also converts whatever comes in as input video to your explicitly selected output settings for your TV. So it will scale ALL sources to the "best" resolution to send to your TV.

--Bob


----------



## Expletive

Not sure if this would fall under this topic but here goes...


I emailed Anthem about the heat that the D2 puts off ans was assured that as long as you have a few inches clearance, it is running within spec. I asked that if I wanted to somehow cool the unit, if only for peace of mind, would that be ok. Anthem responded by saying that it was fine and that if i wanted to use a fan i could probably find a 12v 200ma fan and connect it right to the 200ma trigger, which is a great solution for automatically shutting it on and off.


Question is, does anyone have ideas on how to wire a 12V/200ma DC(?) fan to run off the 1/8" plug of the trigger? (I was thinking of an 80mm computer case fan) I've never used the triggers for anything so i dont know if those are mono or stereo input jacks, or something else.


Technically i think this is a 'tweak' but if everyone feels otherwise, apologies in advance...


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anthem responded by saying that it was fine and that if i wanted to use a fan i could probably find a 12v 200ma fan and connect it right to the 200ma trigger, which is a great solution for automatically shutting it on and off.



I've always used fans for my gear - I have a total of 8 fans in my entertainment center. Instead of using the trigger better connect the fan to a multi-voltage power adapter - a good one is the Radio Shack 273-1667. In this way you can control the fan speed/noise by decreasing/increasing the voltage. I've heard that Yate Loon 120mm fans are very good and quiet - I just ordered a few to see how they work from nexfan.com. You can find a lot more info on fans over at silentpcreview.com.


R


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Razvanel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've always used fans for my gear - I have a total of 8 fans in my entertainment center. Instead of using the trigger better connect the fan to a multi-voltage power adapter - a good one is the Radio Shack 273-1667. In this way you can control the fan speed/noise by decreasing/increasing the voltage. I've heard that Yate Loon 120mm fans are very good and quiet - I just ordered a few to see how they work from nexfan.com. You can find a lot more info on fans over at silentpcreview.com.
> 
> 
> R



Is it better to have the fans aimed at the D2 or into it or away from it? Forgive the silly question...


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it better to have the fans aimed at the D2 or into it or away from it? Forgive the silly question...



Away from the D2, you want the fans to suck out the hot air from inside the D2. Never aim the fans at the D2 or into it - if you do then you gonna get lots of dust into the processor.


R


----------



## Razvanel

When I had my D1 I used two fans to keep it cool. I now use 4 fans for my Integra Research RDC-7.1 processor- the RDC-7.1 gets hotter than the D1!, 2 fans for my amp, 1 fan for my Dish Network receiver, 1 for my DVD recorder.


R


----------



## wingnut4772

Maybe I will get a Zbreeze for it. Thanks.


----------



## jhuang




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Razvanel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Away from the D2, you want the fans to suck out the hot air from inside the D2. Never aim the fans at the D2 or into it - if you do then you gonna get lots of dust into the processor.
> 
> 
> R



You're going to get dust into the unit no matter what way you aim the fans. If you're moving contaminated air through the unit, some of the dust will settle down. If you are concerned about dust, get yourself a foam or metal screen, screw it onto the inlet side of the fan, and then blow it INTO the case.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question is, does anyone have ideas on how to wire a 12V/200ma DC(?) fan to run off the 1/8" plug of the trigger? (I was thinking of an 80mm computer case fan) I've never used the triggers for anything so i dont know if those are mono or stereo input jacks, or something else.



A ready built (or two) to run off the trigger - one in, one out - would be a great idea. Any ideas for the non-soldering iron types would be great.


Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Expletive,

Wiring a mini-jack for a D2 12-volt "trigger" is simple.


It is a "mono" mini-jack (just two electrical connections) -- available at Radio shack for example. The wiring specs are on page 78 of the D2 manual -- the "tip" is positive, and the "sleave" is ground. Of course the easiest way to do this may be simply to buy a "mono" mini-to-mini (or mini to anything) cable of the right length -- which should be quite inexpensive -- and then just lop off of the jack at the fan end to get to the bare wires at that end.


Note that the D2's 3 triggers have different max current specs. Use Trigger 3 to be sure you have enough current to drive a small box fan.


-----------------------------------------------------------


Personally I prefer to have my fan separately powered so that it runs even if the D2 is powered off for faster cooling between use sessions.

--Bob


----------



## jhuang

You can buy a mono mini plug that you will have to solder to. Parts Express sells one:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=090-290


----------



## stieger

Call me stupid, but here goes...


Can each input on the Anthem have different volume settings for surrounds/sub?


With the color test-tones of the Anthem, are you supposed to use the funky glasses to calibrate it correctly? I ask because while watching Pearl Harbor, the clouds seem way to bright with no definition....what is that from>


Thanks all...


Stieger


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drmabuse,
> 
> Off hand it sounds like you have your TV plugged into the D2's Zone 2 Component output instead of the Main output and the D2's scaler is set to not process Zone 2 output (video goes through unscaled by the D2).
> 
> 
> So first make sure your TV is properly connect to a "Main" D2 output -- either Component or HDMI.
> 
> 
> You may also have your two source devices configured improperly in the D2 so that the wrong input signal from each is being sent to the scaler.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Start with the basics. First set the D2 to output properly to your TV, then worry about the source settings.
> 
> 
> Find out what video resolutions your TV is able to handle by checking its manual. Some TVs limit only one input jack to high-res signals or limit which high-res signals they can handle. Don't confuse the "720" in 720x480i with the 720p resolution used for HDTV. 720x480i is a 480i signal -- standard definition TV. 1280x720p and 1920x1080i are the two broadcast HDTV resolutions.
> 
> 
> Set the D2 to output an HD resolution the TV can handle in the Setup / Video Output menu. Some D2 resolutions allow you to choose between different "frame rates". Pick a resolution and frame rate combo your TV can handle. For example, a typical HDTV-ready TV in the US will accept a 1920x1080i 60Hz signal [automatically converting that internally, as necessary, to its "native" display resolution].
> 
> 
> While you are in that menu, turn "Component 2 Out:" to "OFF" just to make sure you are not getting confused by seeing things through a Zone 2 video output. If you ARE plugged into the Zone 2 output, accepting this change will mean your TV picture goes away. You can still make D2 menu changes via what's displayed on the D2's front panel.
> 
> 
> [Note: Your best results will be to match the D2's output to the "native" resolution of your TV so your TV's internal scaler has no work to do. But for now let's keep things simple and stick with the "normal" HDTV resolutions.]
> 
> 
> When you finally accept that change the Setup menu should still display "properly" on your TV. You can do this even with all your sources disconnected or turned off. If the Setup menu is way off center or cropped or the wrong color (Ghastly Green or Shocking Pink) you need to make other adjustments in the Setup / Video Output menu to properly match the D2's video output to what your display can handle.
> 
> 
> Once the Setup menu looks right at your selected high definition resolution, back out of the Setup menu and select a D2 input that is not connected to anything. You should see an all blue screen (since the D2 is receiving no input signal for that source). Press and hold the "7" key on the D2 remote to bring up the Video Source adjustment menu. That menu should appear centered and crisp. Scroll over to the Info panel and verify that the D2 is sending the resolution you told it to send to your TV. Scroll back to the Pattern panel and select on of the D2's internal test patterns. They should fill your screen (slight off-center or slight width or height issues probably mean your TV's image centering controls need to be adjusted).
> 
> 
> Again you can do all this without ANY source devices.
> 
> 
> And if all of this looks right then the D2 is properly set to send the selected high resolution signal to your TV and your TV is handling that signal just fine. You should need to make no further changes here as it is the D2's job to process whatever it receives as video input and convert it to your specified video output.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> For each source device you need to:
> 
> 
> 1) Cable it properly. Keep in mind that you can't send HDTV over, say, S-video cables for example.
> 
> 
> 2) Configure the input on the D2 to look at the video input sockets on the back of the D2 you have actually used for that source device. Each selectable input (i.e., the buttons on the bottom of the D2 remote) can be separately configured as to which sockets it looks at for video input. This selection is done in the D2's Setup / Source Setup/Presets menu for each source. You tell the source what video stream to send to the D2's scaler, and for component, S-video, and composite video streams you separately specify which input plug to use (HDMI input plugs are selected in the scaler setting menu item itself).
> 
> 
> 3) For each source, since your TV is a widescreen TV, go to the proper source device menu and tell the source device that it is talking to a wide screen (16:9) TV. If your source also produces 4:3 content (e.g., SDTV channels on a cable box, or older movies on a DVD), it is best to tell the source to *NOT* add black pillar box bars on either side of the image to restore it to the 4:3 shape. Let the D2 do that instead.
> 
> 
> 4) Select the "best" output resolution for each source. For sources playing SDTV content (includes standard DVD players), your best choice here will be 480i output -- e.g., let the D2 do ALL the de-interlacing and scaling. [If you are using DVI cabling, you will not have 480i as an option. Rather than selecting 480p (and thus losing the advantages of the D2's de-interlacer), consider switching to Component cabling at 480i.] For sources playing HDTV content (e.g., HDTV set top boxes and the new HD/DVD and Blue Ray DVD players playing high res disks), that will either by 720p or 1080i resolution.
> 
> 
> 5) For each source, set it to play something, select that source device as the D2's input, and then press and hold the "7" key on the D2 to bring up the D2's Video Source Adjustment menu for that input. The default settings in this menu should work fine to begin, but if you are having problems with any or your sources, here is where you will make D2 changes to deal with it.
> 
> 
> 6) For each source, you can, for example, view the Info panel under this menu to see what the D2 is seeing as input resolution and what it is sending to your display as output resolution. You already know from the steps above that the D2 knows how to send a proper signal to your TV. So any problems left to fix are input setting related and not output setting related.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The idea here is that the D2 not only lets you select between your sources, but it also converts whatever comes in as input video to your explicitly selected output settings for your TV. So it will scale ALL sources to the "best" resolution to send to your TV.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob - I will give these options a go and see what happens.

I REALLY appreciate the help!

Cheers!

/\\/\\


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Expletive,
> 
> Wiring a mini-jack for a D2 12-volt "trigger" is simple.
> 
> 
> It is a "mono" mini-jack (just two electrical connections) -- available at Radio shack for example. The wiring specs are on page 78 of the D2 manual -- the "tip" is positive, and the "sleave" is ground. Of course the easiest way to do this may be simply to buy a "mono" mini-to-mini (or mini to anything) cable of the right length -- which should be quite inexpensive -- and then just lop off of the jack at the fan end to get to the bare wires at that end.
> 
> 
> Note that the D2's 3 triggers have different max current specs. Use Trigger 3 to be sure you have enough current to drive a small box fan.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob & jhuang,


Stripping wires & electric taping I can handle well. I actually have pretty good clearance all around so this would be extra insurance.


I probably have a mini extension for my remote IRs I can lop off & a quite fan siting around too, just getting the two together need that inspiration


----------



## Bob Pariseau

stieger,

You can not calibrate speaker levels separately for each input.


You have two speaker configurations, Cinema and Music, and you can select one or the other for each input. By default the Music configuration is just a duplicate of the Cinema configuration. For each of these two you can set the speaker types, crossovers, and subwoofer levels independently. You can not set the other speaker levels independently.


These are the calibration settings which are "saved" in the Settings menu.


---------------------------------------------------------------


Separate from these, the D2 allows you to alter the Front (or just the Center), the Surrounds, the Rears, and the Subwoofer levels for EACH SURROUND MODE! See manual section 4.6.


So if you are using different surround modes for playback from different inputs then you have this extra flexibility as well.


By the way, if you are having unusual results from the speakers with some surround mode, it is wise to check that you haven't accidentally set any of these surround mode levels.


----------------------------------------------------------------


Viewing the D2's color patterns through the color gelatin filters is one way to see if the D2 is sending the proper color saturation (Color) and tint (Hue) to your display.


However your problem with bright whites is likely not a color problem, but rather a classic case of "white crush". The various stages of the video stream each have an upper limit as to the whitest signal they can send. If you set white levels too high at any point, or if there is some limitation in the circuit, then near whites will be pushed up to that whitest level and anything "whiter" than that will not look any different.


Typically this is fixed by lowering white levels (Contrast control) to give the device that is having the problem (often the display itself) more "headroom". This is best done using a calibration tool such as the Digital Video Essentials DVD or the Avia Pro DVD that will display grays across the entire range. The setting for black levels (Brightness control) and white levels interact. So you need to find the best compromise setting of these two controls as a pair.


Setting Black and White levels properly so that you can distinguish ALL the steps is not that hard, but it can be confusing at first and it takes some patience. Modern displays are VERY sensitive to getting these levels right -- i.e., the difference in what you see in real programs between "right" and "nearly right" is substantial. There are lots of threads on calibration in the Standard Definition DVD forum here for example.

--Bob


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've checked everything, and all is setup like it should be, except I haven't yet played with the Video Source Adjustment/Picture/Video ADC that you mentioned above. I'll try that later. Note that the Velodyne's output can be seen if I use the D2's S-Video output. It's only if I use the D2's HDMI output that I have trouble with. So, until I figure this out, I do have the workaround of using the D2's S-Video output. Aside: the SMS-1 (and the DD series in general) is great for smoothing out bass response.



I still can't get the Velodyne SMS-1's output to show up with the D2's HDMI out.

I checked the scaler's Video Source Adjustment/Picture/Video ADC settings, and nothing helped. The Info page in the scaler setup indicated the following:


Input Status: Video Source: S-Video

Signal Type: 0x0i/0Hz

Audio Source: NA


The Signal Type isn't correct. I double checked the D2's menu #5, and the scaler input is set to S-Video, and the "S-Video In" is set as it should be. I sent email to Anthem support to see if they can help.


Note that the SMS-1's OSD shows up correctly when using the D2's S-Video output. I have other S-Video sources (a VCR and a TiVo), and their output shows up okay when using the D2's HDMI out. This issue might be due to something unique about the SMS-1's S-Video signal. Blaine reported the same problem with his D2. Someone else in another thread reported a similar problem, but with a Yamaha receiver. However, if the SMS-1 works properly when connected to the S-Video in of TV or a projector (or when using the D2's S-Video out), it would be nice if its output can be sent to the D2's HDMI out. It would be nice to be able to use a single cable to my projector (and not have to have an S-Video cable to the projector). For now, the workaround is to use the S-Video output of my D2 (currently connected to a TV, but I can take the cable and connect it to my projector if no other solution is available). Fortunately, the D2's setup menu and other OSD show up okay when using the D2's S-Video out.


----------



## wingnut4772

I have never used a scaler before and I am a little intimidated by this feature of the D2. How do I find out exactly what each component is outputting to set it up correctly?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

randman,

Well this certainly is a puzzle!


One possibility is that the D2 is getting confused and thinks this input has been selected for Zone 2/3, or Rec -- in which case the incoming S-video is not processed but just passed through to the S-video output.


I wonder if there's a chance that the remote control for the SMS-1 has a conflict with the D2 so that SMS-1 remote button pushes are altering the D2 settings.


------------------------------------------


Another possibility is that your SMS-1 has been set to put out PAL instead of NTSC and the D2 is passing through the PAL stuff but not processing it. The assumption would have to be that your display will accept either PAL or NTSC S-video for this to be possible.


But this is just grasping at straws. This is really one that Anthem is going to have to answer.

--Bob


----------



## dipan

Newbie warning here. I hope you guys can help with a basic wiring question.


I've placed an order for a D2 after shopping around some time for separates and a scaler/deinterlacer. It should be here soon (week or two). I'm trying to get the appropriate cables that I would be needing from bluejeanscable and am unsure what to get. I plan on having HDMI's connecting DVD player, DVD recorder, and SA 8300HD cable box to the D2, along with coax/opt digital lines. Then the D2 would connect via HDMI to a Sony TV (also not here yet).


The problem lies with the DVD recorder. I would like to record analog video from old VHS and C-VHS archives to DVD. I also have some home movies on DVD that I'd like to manipulate onto other DVD's. I also would like to record the occasional TV show (from the cable box) to DVD. Will I have issues with trying to record stuff on the DVD recorder if the sources are only connected to the D2 via HDMI? Or do I need to use analog connections also or instead of the digital HDMI?


Thanks guys ...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

wingnut,

You tell the D2 what to send to your display in its Setup / Video Output menu. So you control that. You need to first find out what resolutions and frame rates your display will accept. Most HDTV-ready displays in the US will accept 1280x720p 60 Hz and 1920x1080i 60Hz as those are the standard broadcast HDTV resolutions, but a different resolution closer to the "native" resolution of your display may yield better results.


The D2's scaler will take whatever video it receives from the source devices and convert it to that output resolution and frame rate.


As far as what each source device can send to the D2, that depends on the specific device.


Sources that put out standard definition TV (including standard DVD players), will offer 720x480i -- a regular SDTV signal -- and may also offer 720x480p -- a de-interlaced (progressive) SDTV signal. What comes off a DVD disc or via your TV antenna, or cable box, or satellite service for SDTV is 480i. The D2's de-interlacer is exceptionally good, so any such source device *SHOULD* be set to put out 480i (instead of 480p) so that the de-interlacing happens inside the D2.


Sources that put out high resolution TV (including "upscaling" standard DVD players, HDTV receivers, HDTV capable cable boxes, HDTV capable satellite boxes and the new high resolution DVD players playing HD/DVD or Blue Ray discs) will typically offer 1280x720p and 1920x1080i output as well. These are the two types of HDTV broadcast signal. One is not inherently better than the other (because they both stream about the same number of bits per second of picture information), but converting between those two formats is also a "scaling" operation and many such source devices have really REALLY crappy scalers inside them.


So ideally you want to set those boxes to pass along whatever is coming into them (from the disc, the antenna, the satellite, etc.) without change -- i.e., without scalingg it. Thus, if you are watching sports on an HDTV Fox TV channel at 720p, you want to send that to the D2, whereas if you are watching sports on and HDTV ESPN channel at 1080i you want to pass THAT to the D2.


For example, the new HD/DVD discs have 1080p data on them. The new Toshiba HD/DVD player offers the choice of sending 1080i (not 1080p) or 720p video as output when playing such a disc. However the Toshiba's internal scaler is brain dead and so you HAVE TO set it to put out 1080i or you will see a lousy image even if you plug it into a display with a "native" 720p resolution.


Another example is an "upscaling" standard definition DVD player which offers the option to send 480i, 480p, 720p, or 1080i output when playing standard DVDs which are inherently 480i. For such a player, ignore its "upscaling" feature and set it to output 480i -- as the scaler in the D2 is most likely better than the scaler in the "upscaling" DVD player.


Some broadcast TV source devices offer the ability to automatically pass through whatever the incoming resolution is directly to the output without scaling. Some source devices offer a limited ability to do that (i.e., only 480i or 1080i but not also 720p), and some force you to pick the ONE resolution you want for output. If you are in that last situation with your cable or satellite box, then you should probably pick 1080i output as there is more HDTV at 1080i than at 720p. The source box will then be scaling 480i SDTV or 720p HDTV to 1080i -- which is not ideal since the D2 likely *COULD* do it better -- but at least your 1080i watching will be good.


When you get more into this, you will likely also encounter discussion of TV "frame rates" vs. movie "frame rates". That's a topic for another discussion and can be safely ignored for now. The basics are as stated above and can be summarized as follows:


Tell each source device to do the LEAST POSSIBLE processing on whatever video signal it is passing along to the D2. Leave it to the D2 to do any de-interlacing and scaling and color space conversion and noise reduction and etc., etc.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dipan,

I haven't tried to record stuff myself via the D2 but I believe its "RECORD path" is unprocessed. That is it just switches audio and video without doing anything to it.


And if I'm correct, that means you will need Component, S-video, and Composite connections to your recorder to record Component, S-video, and Composite sources respectively. I don't believe you will be able to record HDMI sources. Indeed that's what the copy protection stuff in HDMI is supposed to prevent.


Also, I believe there are similar issues trying to get a digital audio input stream to go to the recorder.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

Wow. Thanks for the in depth answer, Bob. That makes it go in between the ears a little.


----------



## dipan

Thanks Bob ...


I guess I'll just have to see how it goes. I suppose I could just bypass the D2 and input the individual components directly to the DVD recorder, but I was hoping to centralize this task through the D2 so I have a simpler setup (less wires).


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I still can't get the Velodyne SMS-1's output to show up with the D2's HDMI out.
> 
> I checked the scaler's Video Source Adjustment/Picture/Video ADC settings, and nothing helped. The Info page in the scaler setup indicated the following:
> 
> 
> Input Status: Video Source: S-Video
> 
> Signal Type: 0x0i/0Hz
> 
> Audio Source: NA
> 
> 
> The Signal Type isn't correct. I double checked the D2's menu #5, and the scaler input is set to S-Video, and the "S-Video In" is set as it should be. I sent email to Anthem support to see if they can help.
> 
> 
> Note that the SMS-1's OSD shows up correctly when using the D2's S-Video output. I have other S-Video sources (a VCR and a TiVo), and their output shows up okay when using the D2's HDMI out. This issue might be due to something unique about the SMS-1's S-Video signal. Blaine reported the same problem with his D2. Someone else in another thread reported a similar problem, but with a Yamaha receiver. However, if the SMS-1 works properly when connected to the S-Video in of TV or a projector (or when using the D2's S-Video out), it would be nice if its output can be sent to the D2's HDMI out. It would be nice to be able to use a single cable to my projector (and not have to have an S-Video cable to the projector). For now, the workaround is to use the S-Video output of my D2 (currently connected to a TV, but I can take the cable and connect it to my projector if no other solution is available). Fortunately, the D2's setup menu and other OSD show up okay when using the D2's S-Video out.



Randman

I have spoke to Nick about this problem and he is looking into it

I have the same problem with my DD12

For now I'm using direct connection to my PJ from DD12

Even when we tested DD at the dealer and we went directly to PJ, his PJ reset itself to receiver after you exit manu from DD

So this confirm it that there is a problem with signal from DD subs

I'm currently looking at S-video to Component converter to use with My DD.

Does anyone know if something like this exists(i know boxes do that, but do anyone know if cable like this exists)?

THX


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randman
> 
> I have spoke to Nick about this problem and he is looking into it
> 
> I have the same problem with my DD12
> 
> For now I'm using direct connection to my PJ from DD12
> 
> Even when we tested DD at the dealer and we went directly to PJ, his PJ reset itself to receiver after you exit manu from DD
> 
> So this confirm it that there is a problem with signal from DD subs
> 
> I'm currently looking at S-video to Component converter to use with My DD.
> 
> Does anyone know if something like this exists(i know boxes do that, but do anyone know if cable like this exists)?
> 
> THX



Or an upconverting box on a budget that is available in Canada









Thank you


----------



## dipan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if something like this exists(i know boxes do that, but do anyone know if cable like this exists)?
> 
> THX



Infocus sells an S-video to component video adapter cable. Search the Infocus website for this. I could have sworn I've seen something like this that came with one of my computers' graphics card.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> randman,
> 
> Well this certainly is a puzzle!
> 
> 
> One possibility is that the D2 is getting confused and thinks this input has been selected for Zone 2/3, or Rec -- in which case the incoming S-video is not processed but just passed through to the S-video output.
> 
> 
> I wonder if there's a chance that the remote control for the SMS-1 has a conflict with the D2 so that SMS-1 remote button pushes are altering the D2 settings.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Another possibility is that your SMS-1 has been set to put out PAL instead of NTSC and the D2 is passing through the PAL stuff but not processing it. The assumption would have to be that your display will accept either PAL or NTSC S-video for this to be possible.
> 
> 
> But this is just grasping at straws. This is really one that Anthem is going to have to answer.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, Elmac - thanks for your input.


No, it's not an issue with remote control conflicts. My SMS-1 is triggered on via the D2, and I started having this problem even before I ever used the SMS-1 remote after hooking it up to the D2. It's not the Zone2/3 or Rec issue either.


I don't think it's a PAL/NTSC issue either. The SMS-1 has a way of switching betweeen PAL and NTSC. NTSC is the default. If it's not currently NTSC, resetting the SMS-1 to its defaults will make it NTSC. A long time ago, I did reset it to its defaults (but don't really want to do it now, since I will lose all my settings... unlike the D2, the SMS-1 has no way of saving the settings to a PC). My projector

supports both PAL and NTSC, but I doubt that my old circa 1991 TV does, and the SMS-1 OSD shows up okay in my TV.


I suspect that there's something inherently wrong with the SMS-1 OSD signal that's confusing the D2. Nick replied that this is "not uncommon" with OSD generators where the output is not exactly interlaced and can't be recognized by the video processor.


For now, I'll use a long S-Video cable from the D2 to my projector, since the D2's S-Video out correctly outputs the SMS-1's OSD. Fortunately, the D2's OSD can also be displayed via S-Video, so I can see both the SMS-1's and the D2's OSDs.

The only hassle is having to switch inputs in my projector, but I can program that automatically with my Pronto. No big deal about not having "upscaled" OSD, but would be nice to have a resolution on this nevertheless.


I'll also post this issue in the "Official Velodyne Support Thread", and see if others have a suggestion (maybe Curt from Velodyne can help).


----------



## Max Spivak

I'm getting a fairly loud hum from my speakers when Oppo 970 is turned on. Oppo 970 is connected to D2 via HDMI or coax dig audio. When Oppo is turned on, I get the hum that's not really audible when music is playing, but definitely audible when music stops. Hum increases and decreases with D2 volume changes. If I turn Oppo off, hum is 80-90% gone. If I unplug Oppo, hum is completely gone.


I initially suspected a ground loop, so I tried plugging D2, amp and Oppo into the same outlet, and the hum is still there. There's nothing else on the circuit - it's a brand new 20amp line.


Has anyone else seen this?


What can be causing this? When Oppo isn't playing, it's not sending a digital audio bitstream, so it can't be coming from the audio source, right? I have no analog connections between the two.


Any ideas on how to get rid of it?


----------



## wingnut4772

A local shop let me borrow their D1 just to see how it sounds with my gear. Every now and then I experience drop outs with my Pioneer 79avi hooked up to the D1 via optical. Various discs with no seeming rhyme or reason will just be silent in the middle of a song for a second. I have never had this experience.Is this a known issue at all with either the D1 or D2?


----------



## Dennis Oblow

Max, Try using a Toslink cable to connect your audio, will probably eliminate the hum


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A local shop let me borrow their D1 just to see how it sounds with my gear. Every now and then I experience drop outs with my Pioneer 79avi hooked up to the D1 via optical. Various discs with no seeming rhyme or reason will just be silent in the middle of a song for a second. I have never had this experience.Is this a known issue at all with either the D1 or D2?



HAve you tried a different Toslink cable, or a digital coax cable?


----------



## stieger

(Bob) et al.,


Thanks for the reply. I understand I cannot set different volume levels per input, but CAN for different surround modes - Are those surround format volume changes kept in memory even after turning off the Anthem, OR after power down does the unit automatically reset each surround mode volume level to -0- across the board (for each speaker)?


thx,


stieger


----------



## randman

The surround mode settings are retained even after powering off.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, Elmac - thanks for your input.
> 
> 
> No, it's not an issue with remote control conflicts. My SMS-1 is triggered on via the D2, and I started having this problem even before I ever used the SMS-1 remote after hooking it up to the D2. It's not the Zone2/3 or Rec issue either.
> 
> 
> I don't think it's a PAL/NTSC issue either. The SMS-1 has a way of switching betweeen PAL and NTSC. NTSC is the default. If it's not currently NTSC, resetting the SMS-1 to its defaults will make it NTSC. A long time ago, I did reset it to its defaults (but don't really want to do it now, since I will lose all my settings... unlike the D2, the SMS-1 has no way of saving the settings to a PC). My projector
> 
> supports both PAL and NTSC, but I doubt that my old circa 1991 TV does, and the SMS-1 OSD shows up okay in my TV.
> 
> 
> I suspect that there's something inherently wrong with the SMS-1 OSD signal that's confusing the D2. Nick replied that this is "not uncommon" with OSD generators where the output is not exactly interlaced and can't be recognized by the video processor.
> 
> 
> For now, I'll use a long S-Video cable from the D2 to my projector, since the D2's S-Video out correctly outputs the SMS-1's OSD. Fortunately, the D2's OSD can also be displayed via S-Video, so I can see both the SMS-1's and the D2's OSDs.
> 
> The only hassle is having to switch inputs in my projector, but I can program that automatically with my Pronto. No big deal about not having "upscaled" OSD, but would be nice to have a resolution on this nevertheless.
> 
> 
> I'll also post this issue in the "Official Velodyne Support Thread", and see if others have a suggestion (maybe Curt from Velodyne can help).



Have you tried the composite output on the SMS1 as well? I have a DD18 so as soon as i get a chance i'll give it a try.


----------



## randman

I haven't tried the composite out. If memory serves (from the manual), I don't think the scaler is designed to work with composite input. I believe the S-Video can't be scaled due to the way the Velodyne OSD generator works. Anthem suspects that maybe, like other OSD generators, that it is only outputing either the odd fields or the even fields and not both. Both are needed by the processor to do the deinterlacing. Anyway, this isn't a big deal. You can use the S-Video out from the D2 to your display. The Anthem's OSD also works with S-Video as well, so you would be able to look at both the SMS-1 and the D2's OSD.


----------



## Max Spivak

I tried a different HDMI and digital coax cable. Even if I use toslink, I still need HDMI for video. Still get the hum.


Everything else has been disconnected, save for D2, Oppo and amp. If I turn off the oppo, hum goes away.


Ideas?


(Grumble... I understand stuff breaking and not working right if you buy crappy gear. What's frustrating is when really high-end gear isn't working right! I'm still waiting for replacement D2 that will hopefully cure the weird green dots on 480i input. Oh, btw, I get the weird green dots both on hdmi and component 480i input.)


----------



## ripclawsa

Is anyone outputting HDMI video from the D2 into their display's / projector's DVI input port? If so, have you experienced any issues? If not, what resolution(s) are you outputting from the D2? I am assuming that this is scaled and deinterlaced output.


Cheers.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HAve you tried a different Toslink cable, or a digital coax cable?



No. That might make a difference? It is the same Toslink I used with my Sherwood.


----------



## cigarguy

Try using a cheater plug on all 3 power cables. A cheater plug converts the 3 prong units into 2 prong units thus, eliminateing the ground which is what is probably causing the hum. Try it on one at a time until you eliminate the hum. They are about $1-2 at any hardware store.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ripclawsa,

I'm sending 1360x768p from my D2, via HDMI to DVI cabling, into my Fujitsu P50 (30 series) plasma.


It works just fine except that I've got the bottom two rows of pixels clipped for some reason.


Most DVI displays will expect RGB instead of YPbPr, so you need to set the D2's Setup / Video Output / Data Format to output "RGB" or the colors will look weird (Shocking Pink).


For my display, I also had to set the D2's Setup / Video Output / Sync to "Inverted" to get the image properly positioned.


The DVI input on your display needs to be HDCP (i.e., copy protection) compliant. Some older displays have DVI inputs that were only intended for connection to computers and are not HDCP compliant. These will likely give you problems so you will likely be happier using analog Component video cabling.


Even if your DVI input is HDCP compliant, it is possible your display has a setup option for the different digital encoding typically used by computers as compared to that found on home theater digital equipment and content (such as the content on standard DVD's). Look for a setup option on your display that configures its DVI input for "TV" or "Set Top Box" as opposed to "PC" or "Computer". Technically what's going on here is that home theater digital video encodes "black" as digital 16 and "reference white" as digital "235" -- using the ranges from 1 to 15 and 236 to 254 for "blacker than black" and "peak white" data. (Digital 0 and 255 are reserved values for special purposes.) This extra headroom helps prevent artifacts from appearing in the image as the image is processed in various stages from camera to screen.


Computer cards on the other hand, don't expect any significant processing to happen between their output and the display so they use the entire range for data they expect to remain visible and include no such headroom. They encode "black" as digital 0 and reference white as digital 255. Obviously if your display is set to expect this type of encoding the blacks and whites will be off if it is sent the other type of encoding.


If your display says it's DVI input is only intended for computer connections, then you will probably be happier using analog Component video cabling instead.


[HDMI inputs have no such problems. HDMI always includes HDCP, and is always set for home theater style digital encoding.]


The last issue is cabling. It is best to NOT use an adapter at the D2 end of the cable (i.e., a DVI to DVI cable with a DVI to HDMI adapter at the D2 end) as the extra weight of the adapter will put more strain on the D2's HDMI output socket. Either get an HDMI to DVI cable or get an HDMI to HDMI cable and use an HDMI to DVI adapter at the display end of the cable.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

wingnut,

It is fairly easy for the sockets or cable ends of an optical cable to get dirty/dusty enough that you experience occassional drop outs. Your borrowed D1 may have had so many different things plugged into it that some dust got into it's optical input socket. Or your optical cable might have gotten some fingerprint oil or whatever on either end.


Try a digital coax cable. If that eliminates the problem then look to the possibility of dust in either socket of the optical connection, or a dirty optical cable.


A can of clean compressed air (of the type used to blow dust from camera lenses for example) is a useful tool for blowing dust from the optical socket. This stuff comes out cold so just use a brief squirt or you will get condensation moisture in there.


Optical cables are also not indestructible. If you've kinked your cable sharply around a corner for example, or stomped on it at some point, it might be frayed inside its sheath which is also interfering with a clean signal.


Also check that the optical cable is fully inserted into the socket at both ends.


I forget what the recommended length limit is for optical cables, but I suppose that might be an issue as well if you've got a really long cable.


I'm using both optical and digital coax with my D2 and I'm experiencing no problems with dropouts.


I've got the audio from my 59avi coming in over the HDMI cable however. I suspect that's how you'll work things with your 79avi if you get a D2.

--Bob


----------



## ripclawsa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ripclawsa,
> 
> I'm sending 1360x768p from my D2, via HDMI to DVI cabling, into my Fujitsu P50 (30 series) plasma.
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. It truly is an honour receiving a reply from you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Max,

Ground loops can be a real nuisance to deal with, but lets first make sure that's what you've got.


A digital optical cable electrically isolates the equipment at either end -- i.e., there's no wire in that connection, so if that's all you've got connected between the Oppo and the D2 there can be no ground loop.


So try this:


1) Disconnect everything from the D2 except for power and its audio output connections to the amp. If you are using a D2 trigger to turn on the amp, you should leave that connected as well. The amp should be connected only to power and the speakers (and possibly the D2 trigger). Turn on the D2 and the amp and select the Oppo input on the D2 (which has nothing connected to it at this point). No hum right? OK, that was just to be sure it really was Oppo related, and not a D2/amp issue.


2) Now connect ONLY a digital optical cable from the Oppo to the D2 (no HDMI or any other connection). The Oppo should also be connected to power, but no other connections of any sort. Turn on the Oppo, D2, and amp and check for hum while nothing's playing and while music is playing. If you have hum at this point then you have a faulty Oppo. There is no electrical connection between the Oppo and the D2 except that they have a common power source, so there is no possibility of a ground loop.


3) If you don't have hum in step (2), then now add back your HDMI connection from Oppo to D2. This is your original configuration and you should now have hum. Still there? OK, just checking. Now disconnect the HDMI connection and try a DIFFERENT electrical (i.e., WIRE) connection from Oppo to D2. Just about anything should work here. For example run an S-Video cable from the Oppo to the D2 (audio still going via the optical cable). Still got hum? If so you can be pretty certain you have a ground loop. The likely cause is that the Oppo is "lifted" (disconnected) from the common power ground and the D2/amp are not. So there is a voltage difference between what the two devices think is "ground" and that means 60 Hz current is passing along the ground connection between them. This is what generates the hum. Using cheater plugs (3 prong to 2 prong power adapters) to disconnect the D2 and amp from power ground will lift them as well and may break the ground loop. But it might be better to try a different Oppo in case this one just has a bad chassis ground connection inside it -- usually where its power-supply ground is connected to the chassis ground.


4) On the other hand, if the hum only seems to happen when your one and only electric wire connection between the Oppo and the D2 is the HDMI cable, and DOESN'T happen with OTHER wire connections between the Oppo and D2, then there is a problem with the grounding of that HDMI connection. This could be due to a bad cable or to an improperly connected HDMI socket at either end. Again, using cheater plugs may eliminate the hum, but a badly grounded HDMI connection may give you other signal problems so I wouldn't be satisfied with just a cheater plug solution [again, this assumes the hum ONLY happens if the one and only WIRE connection between the Oppo and D2 is the HDMI cable]. I doubt it's related to your pattern of green pixels, but who knows. You've already got a replacement D2 in process, but you might want to try a replacement Oppo in the interim, or an alternate HDMI equiped DVD player.

--Bob



=================================


EDITED TO ADD:


I should add the other common trick to deal with ground loops is to try reversing any two prong power plugs in the outlet. If you've got 3 such plugs, there are several different combinations to try.


Another commonly reported source of hum comes from dimmer switches ANYWHERE IN THE HOUSE. If you have any dimmer switches ANYWHERE, go turn ALL of them entirely off and see if that fixes your hum problem. Be diligent about looking for these as it is easy to forget where all your dimmer switches are located. If this eliminates your hum then turn the dimmer switches back on one at a time until you find the culprit switch.


Another commonly reported source of hum comes from cable TV cables. If you have cable TV service, even though it is not currently connected to your D2 listening environment, disconnect ALL of the cable TV sockets from any cable box or TV that happens to be plugged into wall power ANYWHERE IN THE HOUSE. If that eliminates your hum, then try reconnecting the cables one at a time until you find the culprit connection (which may be ALL of them). You can get cable isolation adapters from, say, Radio Shack, that will dramatically reduce 60 Hz hum coming in via the cable.


In one particularly nasty case I dealt with, the only solution was to take advantage of the fact that the power amp had XLR ("balanced") inputs as well as standard RCA jack inputs. The pre-amp connecting to it only had RCA outputs (unlike the D2 that has both), but I was able to break the ground loop and eliminate hum by buying a set of RCA to XLR adapter plugs and using them at the power amp end.


The point is, there are lots ot tricks to dealing with hum like this, but it can be quite a thorny problem even if all of your pieces of electronics are working the way they are supposed to.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ripclawsa* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is anyone outputting HDMI video from the D2 into their display's / projector's DVI input port? If so, have you experienced any issues? If not, what resolution(s) are you outputting from the D2? I am assuming that this is scaled and deinterlaced output.



HDMI Ultralink Platinum HD Pro & Ultralink HDMI to DVI adapter (all recommended by William Phelps) from Anthem to JVC HD2K Projector - 1080p/60. Great combo.


----------



## Wilfred

If I had a D2 or AVM50 and used HDMI to handle all of my signals from my 970HD, would I need to have a HDCP compliant display powered up to listen to CDs and SACDs? If so, why doesn't this really bite?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Wilfred,

You do, and it does.


However you should also be aware that you can't use HDMI to handle all of the exotic audio formats because the people who control those formats haven't opened them up to digital audio connection yet (a licensing issue more than a technology issue.)


For example, you can't pass highest quality SACD audio via digital connections (including HDMI) -- the current version(s) of HDMI are not licensed to carry it digitally. The HDMI connection can only carry a down-sampled (e.g., crippled) version of the SACD audio EVEN IF YOUR DISPLAY IS TURNED ON!


So you will want to have 6 channel analog audio cables running between your SACD player and the D2 and then listen to SACD by selecting the D2's 6 channel input. SACD decoding and processing will then be done by your player, but the D2 can *ALSO* do additional processing on the incoming 6 channel signals if you wish. For example, you can turn off speaker time delays and bass processing in your player and leave it to the D2 to do all that.


If you want to watch the video from your SACDs you will have your display turned on of course, and the HDMI will then carry the video (specify HDMI as video input for the 6 channel audio input of the D2). If your display is turned off the player will repeatedly try to re-establish the HDMI connection, but it will NOT turn off the analog audio ouput since that's decoded and processed inside the player itself. So this should be a non issue except perhaps for a light blinking on the player as it repeatedly tries to re-establish the HDMI/HDCP connection.


If you have an HDMI V1.1 player, then you CAN pass DVD-Audio in highest digital quality to the D2 -- the original HDMI V1.0 wasn't even licensed for that -- but if your display is off, the HDMI connection will drop. Again your best bet is probably to use the 6 channel analog audio connections from your player to the D2 if you want to listen with the display off. Normal optical and coax digital audio connections don't have the necessary bandwidth to carry highest quality DVD-Audio (or SACD for that matter) signals digitally.


For normal CDs you *DO* have the option of sending highest quality audio via optical or coax digital connections. But again if your video connection is via HDMI and your display is off, these digital audio outputs may also be turned off by your player.


Note there is a difference between the player seeing a powered HDMI device at the other end of the cable which is not responding to HDCP handshakes and the player seeing no powered device at the other end of the cable. So if you configure the CD input of your D2 to *NOT* look at an HDMI input (e.g., "scaler input" is Component Video, or even None), then the player will not try to HDCP handshake on the HDMI cable (because it sees no device at the other end of the cable) and will NOT turn off any other digital audio outputs for failure to complete that handshake. I.e., you can send optical or coax digital audio (as opposed to HDMI digital audio) to the D2 even though your display is off, because the player is not seeing a live HDMI connection on the D2 end.


Aint copy protection fun?

--Bob


----------



## Wilfred

Bob,

The plan was to use the Oppo as a universal transport with a single digital connection for all outputs. I don't think that converting DSD to 24 bit 88 KHz PCM would be too difficult to stomach, my DVD5900 does a similar conversion and I still like it. I was trying to keep the source component, where the failures are most likely and the obsolescence curve is steep, as cheap as possible while keeping the downstream components more stable (and more expensive). I guess I'll have to stay with the current configuration using the MAP1 and keeping all digital processing in the player. Bulb life is too precious to waste on disk menus.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Wilfred,

Yeah. As we see more people stuck this way, I wouldn't be surprised to find new projectors (and other displays) which offer a "Standby" mode where the bulb is off but the HDMI (and HDCP) connection is live.


Right now the devices are all too single-device-centric. E.g., why should I engineer anything to make other devices work if my product is going to be powered off?


With HDMI receivers hitting the market big time this year for connection to this year's and last year's under-engineered displays, the angry mobs of customers should be forming shortly after Christmas. Keep your torches and pitchforks handy.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Bob, I use a Denon DVD 3910 connected to my AVM-50 via HDMI. I listen to both DVD Audio and SACD. DVD Audio is carried via HDMI and SACD via analog cables connected to the 6 channel analog input. I have the HDMI video input for both specified to the AVM-50's HDMI 1 input. I listen to both types WITHOUT having my projector turned on. I use a 14 inch CRT as a monitor to view the menu etc.


The Denon will not attempt to handshake as long as the AVM-50 is set to either the DVD or 6 channel input ( specified as HDMI input 1 ). If I switch the Anthem to an input other than those two than the dispaly on the Denon shows it as searching ( hdmi blinks on the Denon display ).


I see no reason why the Oppo would behave differently or perhaps I am missing something.


Regards,


----------



## Wilfred

It would be interesting if those pre-pros that had a little LCD display could set that up as a HDCP sink.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

placidman,

Curious! Do you have the D2 set with Repeater = ON for HDMI 1?


Perhaps your projector has just the type of standby HDMI input I was talking about.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE

I'm using a small 6" LCD screen at my sitting place for DVD-As and SACDs over HDMI. S-video out of the D2 to the small LCD screen, audio over HDMI. My projector (Sony Ruby) is off (main HDMI out), and there is no problems also in my case.

Small LCD screen 


No need to use my main projector while listening to music.


----------



## Max Spivak

Bob,


Thanks a bunch for a detailed writeup. Off to try it.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> placidman,
> 
> Curious! Do you have the D2 set with Repeater = ON for HDMI 1?
> 
> 
> Perhaps your projector has just the type of standby HDMI input I was talking about.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Bob, HDMI 1 is set to Repeater = No



Regards,


----------



## Max Spivak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Max,
> 
> Ground loops can be a real nuisance to deal with, but lets first make sure that's what you've got.



Ain't that the truth!


The Oppo has been exonerated. It's been fully acquitted of all charges. It has a rock-solid alibi -- it wasn't at the scene of the crime and the hum was still there.


Bob, thanks for your excellent writeup. It got me inspired and I started troubleshooting in ernest. I won't go over all the various permutations I tried. I'll just describe the final setup:


* D2 - no input other than power, RT speaker output (either balanced or unbalanced) to amp

* A5 amp - power, single input to RT channel and single output to RT speaker (Prior to dropping down to one channel, I had hum from all 5 channels. Dropping down to one channel was an attempt to isolate the problem.)

* Both D2 & A5 use two-prong outlets -- no need for cheater plugs.

* House: fridge turned off; all dimmers turned off (air gapped); all cable boxes & tvs disconnected; D2 & A5 on dedicated 20 amp circuit, different circuit also tried; everything else in component rack unplugged (12 ch distribution amp, home automation, sub amp, rack cooling fans, cable box, oppo, accessories)


* D2 on, volume at +10

* A5 on via auto sensing


** Test Cases **


Switching source selections on D2. As I switch, hum varies as follows.


1) 2ch Bal input --> no hum

2) CD Anlg-DSP -> loud hum, variable with volume change

3) Tape Digital -> hum, not variable with volume

4) 6ch Anlg DSP -> quiet hum

5) DVD Digital -> moderate hum, not variable with volume


Go to setup, source setup screen, section 5d for tape, selection g. Audio. As I switch between different inputs for TAPE, the hum volume varies as follows:

1) Anlg Dir - no hum

2) Anlg DSP - loud hum

3) Dig optical & coax - moderate hum


Note - hum is slightly louder with balanced interconnects, but that makes sense since balanced outputs are 3db higher (I believe).


So - it looks like it's the D2 is the culprit. The worst hum is when analog input is selected. Can it be D2's power supply 'leaking' into pre-preamplified the audio path?


What else could be causing this?


Anyone want to try theirs?










Cheers / Sigh,

Max


----------



## Wilfred

Levesque, placidman,

Are you guys sure that you are getting full high rez signals out of the 970 when you have no display on? Reading between the lines in the manuals seems to indicate that the unit may send out downrezed PCM, similar to what other players do with DVD Audio, when it doesn't have a fully compliant chain. Hard to pin down though.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Max,

It certainly looks like a D2 problem. Just to be sure, you've got no display hooked up to the D2 either, right?


So far I've not had any hum problems on my analog inputs or otherwise.


I think this is now a situation you really need to work with Anthem. If you've got a serious chassis ground fault inside the D2 that could explain both the hum and the screwed up digital video signal you've been seeing (green dots).

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wilfred*  /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque, placidman,
> 
> Are you guys sure that you are getting full high rez signals out of the 970 when you have no display on? Reading between the lines in the manuals seems to indicate that the unit may send out downrezed PCM, similar to what other players do with DVD Audio, when it doesn't have a fully compliant chain. Hard to pin down though.



Greetings,


Wilfred, I do not have the Oppo. I have a Denon 3910 in my system which sends full high resolution audio without my Sony vpl-HS51a projector havng to be powered on.


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

placidman,

I have my 59avi connected to the D2 with Repeater=YES for the HDMI. It drops digital audio output if my display is turned off. So I have a separate input set up for CD listening with the video input set to None, and that works fine for receiving digital audio from the 59avi (optical or digital coax) whether or not the TV is on.


I'll have to see whether setting the 59avi input to Repeater = NO alters that, but right now everything is disconnected because I've got painters in here.


Curiously, with my Comcast box where the D2 is set to Repeater = NO, one of the HDMI failure modes (one that I think is D2 heat related), is triggered by my TV being turned on! E.g., when that failure mode is present, turn off the display, reset the Comcast to the proper output settings, wait -- the Comcast holds those settings properly, now turn on the display and the Comcast instantly reverts to its improper, factory default settings. So the D2 is doing something on that input when the display comes live even though the input is set to Repeater = NO.


------------------------------------------------


Wilfred, I believe you can check the signal rate the D2 is receiving via the various D2 status displays. That should tell you whether you are getting down-rezzed DVD-Audio over the digital connection. You'd need a non-HDMI display to see some of these while your HDMI display is turned off.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wilfred* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque, placidman,
> 
> Are you guys sure that you are getting full high rez signals out of the 970 when you have no display on?



Yes. The Oppo is at 1080i while listening to DVDs and SACDs. And like Bob said, I have access to the signal rate on my small LCD screen (non-HDCP).


----------



## DrJRapp

OK guys another wierd scenario:


Yesterday I finally got a replacement (v1.06) for my original D2. The replacement is much more stable and vivid video wise in terms of overall pq. The setup menu of the original would shimmer and the picture had a bt of unsteadiness to it that I attributed to my pj but now is easy to identify as being the fault of the processor when compared to a second D2. My hypotheses was one of power supply issues with the first unit as the front panel display would also visably change brightness levels. I additionally noted that my original SN was only 9 units higher than Levesque's that is pictured in the opening of this thread (130219). That means that I probably had gotten a very very early unit.


The new unit is not without it's own issues, however. HDMI3 socket is unusable. plugs liiterally fall out. I had this issue to a small degree with HDMI1 of the first one so I bought a bunch of flexible pigtails (from Summit source) to remove any strain from the sockets. That worked for the last unit, but is ineffective on HDMI3 socket of this unit. I've tried 8 different cables of 4 different manufacturers and it's all the same; HDMI3 is just mechanically out of tolerance.


Second, but more importantly, 2 out of three of my HDMI connected sources (see below) work fine, the other is inverted. I can only cure this by inverting the output sync, which of course makes the other two then out of sync. Here is the hoot. Every time the D2 power cycles, or a device is turned off the two that are ok change. ie: this time it may be my SD DVD player and PVR that are OK, with the HD DVD player being the odd man out. later today when I turn the system on again, the HD DVD player and SD DVD player will be ok and the PVR will be odd man out. And tomorrow when I turn it on again it may be the PVR and HD player OK and the SD not. So today the output sync may have to be set to normal for the Toshiba to work and tomorrow it must be set to inverted. The same applies to all two other devices. I'm sure this isn't entirely random, and may somehow be connected to another event such as turn on sequence, but I haven't had time to determine that yet.


My connected equipment:


HD DVD: Toshiba XA1, SD DVD Oppo 970, and PVR Dish Vip 622. All of this gear is being used successfully in the same combination by a plethera of others I am friends with online.


It's enough to tear your hair out, and after the first D2 I don't have that much left....LOL


----------



## Nathan_R

I currently have a Pioneer 79AVi, and I'm thinking of getting the Oppo 970 for dvd-a and sacd over hdmi. Given my recent issues with my HD-XA1's audio over HDMI, I'd like to use the analog outputs from the Toshiba to avoid my Anthem's odd decision to output 2.0 instead of 5.1. This would mean, however, that I'd be giving up the multichannel inputs on the Anthem that I've been using for my Pioneer 79.


Has anyone switched from a 79AVi to a 970? Thoughts?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Given my recent issues with my HD-XA1's audio over HDMI



Nathan... what are your issues with the HD A1?


----------



## Nathan_R

Truth be told, I don't know if it's the Toshiba or Anthem at the root of the problem, but the Anthem has a nasty habit of "forgetting" about the 5.1 stream and instead outputs 2.0 with AL-Cinema instead. It doesn't matter how many times I change the audio options (DD+, DTS, etc.) in a movie's menu, I have to kill the Anthem (and restart whatever's playing on the Toshiba) to get back to the proper audio stream.


Also, I'm still getting weird audio output levels over HDMI. The LS channel *appears* either to be ouputting some audio from the fronts and/or center channels, or it's just overwelming other channels. Moreover, the RS is virtually non-existent on some titles. I've calibrated the channel levels with the Anthem's test tones and an SPL meter, and everything looks (and sounds) correct. That's why I originally asked about the whole 6-Ch map feature of the Anthem-- I was curious if my unit was mismapping audio from the Toshiba.


With that said, no other device in my setup is doing this. My DCT-3412, 79AVi, dvhs deck, and others are doing ok and the audio levels seem correct.


----------



## wingnut4772

Nathan, what version D2 do you have (sorry if I missed it).


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Truth be told, I don't know if it's the Toshiba or Anthem at the root of the problem, but the Anthem has a nasty habit of "forgetting" about the 5.1 stream and instead outputs 2.0 with AL-Cinema instead. It doesn't matter how many times I change the audio options (DD+, DTS, etc.) in a movie's menu, I have to kill the Anthem (and restart whatever's playing on the Toshiba) to get back to the proper audio stream.
> 
> 
> Also, I'm still getting weird audio output levels over HDMI. The LS channel *appears* either to be ouputting some audio from the fronts and/or center channels, or it's just overwelming other channels. Moreover, the RS is virtually non-existent on some titles. I've calibrated the channel levels with the Anthem's test tones and an SPL meter, and everything looks (and sounds) correct. That's why I originally asked about the whole 6-Ch map feature of the Anthem-- I was curious if my unit was mismapping audio from the Toshiba.
> 
> 
> With that said, no other device in my setup is doing this. My DCT-3412, 79AVi, dvhs deck, and others are doing ok and the audio levels seem correct.



Nathan.. that is weird! Have you tried initializing the HD A1? And I assume you are on HD A1 v1.4... I can't see how this would be a D2 problem, but have you tried switching HDMI inputs on the D2.. also, have you tried to hooking up the HD A1 via the analog outs to see if it is coming out of the box that way? Also, are you sure the HD A1 is setup to output correctly (i.e. PCM output only?).. have to ask..


----------



## Nathan_R

I've re-initialized a few times. The XA1 is on v1.4. The AVM-50 is on v1.06. I've switched HDMI inputs on the Anthem (from 1 to 3). I've tried the multichannel inputs on the AVM-50, and the levels appear to be correct when I do this. The XA1 is outputting PCM only.


It's sporadic when my problems happen. Sometimes if I go into the AVM-50's menus to make a small change (say to tweak the level of the LS channel), it switches from 5.1 to 2.0 upon exiting the menus. If I jump to another movie scene via the XA1, sometimes the Anthem discards the 5.1 feed and switches to 2.0. Whenever either scenario happens, I have to kill the Anthem to get it back to 5.1. Sadly, this always means restarting the movie, as the Toshiba loses its HDMI connection and stops automatically.


So, I think using the analog outputs from the Toshiba will be a good work-around, but now I'm going to lose the analog outputs from my Pio 79AVi.


I guess I can live with the issues. It's not everyday that I want to skip scenes or adjust the speaker levels. I just want to figure out why my LS channel is so loud compared to the RS, fix it for good, and leave it alone.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've re-initialized a few times. The XA1 is on v1.4. The AVM-50 is on v1.06. I've switched HDMI inputs on the Anthem (from 1 to 3). I've tried the multichannel inputs on the AVM-50, and the levels appear to be correct when I do this. The XA1 is outputting PCM only.
> 
> 
> It's sporadic when my problems happen. Sometimes if I go into the AVM-50's menus to make a small change (say to tweak the level of the LS channel), it switches from 5.1 to 2.0 upon exiting the menus. If I jump to another movie scene via the XA1, sometimes the Anthem discards the 5.1 feed and switches to 2.0. Whenever either scenario happens, I have to kill the Anthem to get it back to 5.1. Sadly, this always means restarting the movie, as the Toshiba loses its HDMI connection and stops automatically.
> 
> 
> So, I think using the analog outputs from the Toshiba will be a good work-around, but now I'm going to lose the analog outputs from my Pio 79AVi.
> 
> 
> I guess I can live with the issues. It's not everyday that I want to skip scenes or adjust the speaker levels. I just want to figure out why my LS channel is so loud compared to the RS, fix it for good, and leave it alone.



Interesting.... I guess the only thing left to try is another XA1... I have had zero issues with the D2 and A1, and I will try and do some of the things you have... Have you also checked the repeater functions on the 50? Best of luck figuring this one out.. somebody in Georgia's gotta have another XA1 or A1/D1 for ya to try


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Truth be told, I don't know if it's the Toshiba or Anthem at the root of the problem, but the Anthem has a nasty habit of "forgetting" about the 5.1 stream and instead outputs 2.0 with AL-Cinema instead.



I've had this issue also with the new D2. Must be something in the D2 with 1.06 fw because the old unit which had 1.03 never demonstrated that problem. My XA1 is still on 1.2.


I found the solution is to set the all the preferences to NONE. Once that is done, the D2 will follow whatever it is currently receiving. It really freked me out at first, tried playing a new HD DVD (Chronicles of Riddick) and there was NO DIALOG, even though there was sound coming from the center channel. That's when I noticed the D2 was stuck on AL 2 channel.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I am about to add the Toshiba HD-A1 to my AVM-50 setup as well. Are there any others experiencing issues with the Toshibas and their respective Anthem?



Regards,


----------



## DrJRapp

My replacement D2 took three weeks for Anthem to ship out, after my dealer made a decision to relace the first. The second is still loaded with issues, even though they are different issues than the original. The D2 has been shipping nearly 6 months and they still haven't resolved FW discrepancies and production deficiencies. Additionally, the unit I received has several scratches on the front bezel and one of the HDMI sockets is so loose as to be unusable. I think I may have received a B stock unit that someone else returned previously.


This is my first Anthem acquisition, and I started at the top, rather than the bottom.The conclusion I am drawing is that Anthem is really a Class B company trying to purvey 2d rate equipment at 1st rate prices.


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've had this issue also with the new D2. Must be something in the D2 with 1.06 fw because the old unit which had 1.03 never demonstrated that problem. My XA1 is still on 1.2.
> 
> 
> I found the solution is to set the all the preferences to NONE. Once that is done, the D2 will follow whatever it is currently receiving. It really freked me out at first, tried playing a new HD DVD (Chronicles of Riddick) and there was NO DIALOG, even though there was sound coming from the center channel. That's when I noticed the D2 was stuck on AL 2 channel.



Interesting. You know, I only noticed this when I went to v1.06 on the AVM-50.


What do you mean when you say you set all the preferences to NONE? Can you expand on that for me? I'd like to try everything possible before pestering Toshiba's or Anthem's tech support.


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My replacement D2 took three weeks for Anthem to ship out, and it is still loaded with issues, even though they are different issues than the original. The D2 has been shipping nearly 6 months and they still haven't resolved FW discrepancies and production deficiencies. Additionally, the unit I received has several scrathces on the front bezel and one of the HDMI sockets is so loose as to be unusable. I think I may have received a B stock unit that someone else returned previously.
> 
> 
> This is my first Anthem acquisition, and I started at the top, rather than the bottom.The conclusion I have drawn is that Anthem is really a Class B company trying to purvey 2d rate equipment at 1st rate prices.



Maybe you got one of NKB returned unit. What is the serial number


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe you got one of NKB returned unit. What is the serial number



131488


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting. You know, I only noticed this when I went to v1.06 on the AVM-50.
> 
> 
> What do you mean when you say you set all the preferences to NONE?



In the setup menu under source/presets at the bottom you have "Mode Presets". The list goes Program: 2.0, 2.0 surround, 6ch/5, DDEX, DTS5.1

DTSES. the last choice for each one of those is "none". That's what I had to set all of them to in order to get it to work automatically. Otherwise the machine was stuck in Anthem Logic 2.0.


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe you got one of NKB returned unit. What is the serial number



What does Anthem do with all these returns? I don't know of any store or site that sells Anthem b-stock or refurbished units.


R


----------



## DrJRapp

Another thing that leads me to believe I got a B stock unit is the fact that there was no plastic film over the display bezel. Now, I have no objection to their repairing a unit and turning it around as a service replacement. After all, the unit I am returning to them is used also. Howver, they should be extra careful to ascertain that the unit is perfect both operationally and cosmetically prior to shipping it out. That was obviously not done in this case. This is why I peg Anthem as a B class company. They lack any real pride in their product. They don't treat customers who buy their flagship products as VIPs as they should. In fact, my experience was quite the opposite, we generally are talked down to by their tech staff. I have purchase my fair share of high grade equipment in my lifetime. Of that share there have been issues with some. The better companies stand out clearly in the fact they care about their customers. This, however unfortunatly, isn't an Anthem characteristic.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Razvanel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What does Anthem do with all these returns? I don't know of any store or site that sells Anthem b-stock or refurbished units.
> 
> 
> R



Perhaps after repair they are renumbered and repackaged and resold. Or perhaps they are used as service replacements.


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now, I have no objection to their repairing a unit and turning it around as a service replacement.



I think that a $6500 defective unit deserves a brand new replacement especially considering the fact that you only used it for a few months.


R


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Perhaps after repair they are renumbered and repackaged and resold.



I think that that might be illegal. I once asked the Integra Research rep for So Cal what IR does with all the returns they get and he told me that they are fixed and sold as refurbished units through some of their dealers, they are not allowed to fix the units, change the serial numbers and sell the units as new.


R


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Razvanel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think that a $6500 defective unit deserves a brand new replacement especially considering the fact that you only used it for a few months.
> 
> 
> R



Thanks for that support, and while I believe likewise, it doesn't always happen, especially with companys that have mission statements that arn't based on 100% customer satisfaction.


At this point I'll just settle for one that works well enough for my wife to be able to change activities without having to go into the setup menu and play with a whole collection of settings to get a picture on the screen. I think for $6500 it should do at least that.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Razvanel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think that that might be illegal. I once asked the Integra Research rep for So Cal what IR does with all the returns they get and he told me that they are fixed and sold as refurbished units through some of their dealers, they are not allowed to fix the units, change the serial numbers and sell the units as new.
> 
> 
> R



I believe that is US law. Canadian law may differ.


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> At this point I'll just settle for one that works well enough for my wife to be able to chage activities without having to go into the setup menu and play with a whole collection of settings to get a picture on the screen. I think for $6500 it should do at least that.



If I were you I'd insist that the 3rd unit should be a brand new one. If that turns out to also be defective ask for a 4th one, also new. And next time don't buy Anthem any more, their QC is very poor.


R


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe that is US law. Canadian law may differ.



As far as I know US law applies to products sold in the US. I also think that refurbished and b-stock units are to be clearly marked as such.


R


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Razvanel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As far as I know US law applies to products sold in the US. I also think that refurbished and b-stock units are to be clearly marked as such.
> 
> 
> R



Actually, I've been told that it only applies to those manufactured in the US, and it doesn't prohibit the practice, it only requires that a manufacturer state in the fine print that they may use some recycled parts in their product.



I just heard from my dealer. They're getting me another D2. Thank god I have a good dealer because I'm not enamored with dealing with Anthem's support.


If at first you don't succeed.. try and try and try and try.......lol


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually, I've been told that it only applies to those manufactured in the US, and it doesn't prohibit the practice, it only requires that a manufacturer state in the fine print that they may use some recycled parts in their product.
> 
> 
> 
> I just heard from my dealer. They're getting me another D2. Thank god I have a good dealer because I'm not enamored with dealing with Anthem's support.
> 
> 
> If at first you don't succeed.. try and try and try and try.......lol



Dammit Jerry, you are scaring the hell out of me


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If at first you don't succeed.. try and try and try and try.......lol



Or call your CC company and dispute the charges for shipping a defective product. Get your money back.


If you read the warranty they probably just have to replace the defective unit, it does not have to be brand new.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Dammit Jerry, you are scaring the hell out of me





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you read the warranty they probably just have to replace the defective unit, it does not have to be brand new.



Actually, all the warantee says is that they will repair a non-functioning unit, and it is the dealer's responsibility to arrainge that. That is why it's very important to have a good dealer. My dealer is consistently one of the top 5 in the US, year after year. They certainly didn't get that way thru Anthem's doing, but by being proactive to customer problems.


Now hopefully I can get a fully operational D2 BEFORE they are obsolete.


----------



## Unclejeff

Ouch! This thread has certainly taken a turn away from the good vibes posted back in April. I think I am going to wait till next year to make my purchase.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> I additionally noted that my original SN was only 9 units higher than Levesque's that is pictured in the opening of this thread (130219). That means that I probably had gotten a very very early unit.



Jerry, that is certainly strange. My recollection is that I received my second D2 at least three or four weeks before you received your original and my serial number is 130207. Mine replaced the first which came with a defective hdmi switching mechanism.


Since I upgraded my Toshiba HD-XA1 to v.1.2 I have had no issues with the D2. And I have refrained from undertaking any of the Anthem firmware upgrades. Believe it or not, I am still running 1.0. From what I see 1.6 scares the s_ _ t out of me. It does seem that the solution to one issue causes a different technicality. I consider myself lucky that all is well with my D2. And I will still wait a bit before upgrading the firmware (no matter how much is ingrained to have the latest firmware).


And Jerry, your patience is certainly beyond what mine would be. We all know how difficult it is to disconnect, reconnect, disconnect and reconnect all of the cables and wires and power cords, etc.


And, If my wife had to go into the Setup menu, nothing would be working correctly. I already tell her to count to 45 when powering up the Toshiba before hitting another button on the remote. At least, your luck is very good in that area.


I certainly hope that D2 numero tres' is the fully working one!!


----------



## DrJRapp

Stan,


You'll notice that the SN of your replacement machine preceeds the sn shown on Levesque's in the beginning of this thread, one that he got in February. You got your replacement in mid May? This heightens my suspicions that Anthem recycles units that are returned for repair.


No, my wife won't go into the setup menu and play around to get things to work. Therefore she has been denied the use of the system while I am not around. At her request, I therefore had to go out a buy her her own Plasma and DVD player so she can watch movies while I'm not here to fiddle with the D2.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jerry, your patience is certainly beyond what mine would be. We all know how difficult it is to disconnect, reconnect, disconnect and reconnect all of the cables and wires and power cords, etc.




Yes, having to deal with this has been very stressful. I'm in this hobby to relieve the stress of my overly stressful occupation. If there were a viable alternative available to the D2, I'd tell Anthem to stick it where the sun don't shine. However, I have now built my whole system around the D2, so I have no choice except put up with the stress till I get one that works.


PS: Stan

Toll Bros just started a new complex right doen the road from me. Maybe you can get yourself a good preconstruction deal.


----------



## ripclawsa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Dammit Jerry, you are scaring the hell out of me



This is just getting more and more depressing.










It's one thing to experience problems between getting two or more HDMI components "talking" to each other. It's another thing to have poorly constructed HDMI ports. And on top of that you have the issue of B-stock being used to replace faulty A-stock units.


Down here in South Africa, the importer of Anthem (who is also the importer of Paradigm speakers) has said that he will only be bringing in the AVM30 and AVM50 for now. If you like the sound of the Anthem, and if you want the D2, then that will be brought in by special request. Now what happens when the D2 that has been purchased experiences one or more of the issues documented by Bob and nkb? Wait for the importer to import another? That will probably take at least 4 weeks. And what if it's a B-stock unit that exhibits more problems? At least you guys are physically closer to Canada, and on top of that, some or most of you have good dealers. If I purchase a D2 that is a problem-child, my wife will most likely kill me. No lie.


Reading through those who have posted their problems about the D2 is making me reconsider my decision to purchase one. .


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ripclawsa* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I purchase a D2 that is a problem-child, my wife will most likely kill me. No lie.
> 
> 
> Reading through those who have posted their problems about the D2 is making me reconsider my decision to purchase one. .




That's what went on here...hence my wife got her own system. This was an unbudgeted expense of the D2 upgrade. Getting a second bad D2 made her really question my judgement. She is simultaneously concerned about the stress this puts on me. Now every purchase is likely to be scrutenized in the future. It never was that way.


If I were in your shoes I would take a long hard look before making the D2 leap. Anthem obviously hasn't exterminated the bugs after nearly 6 months.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Folks,

Just to put things in perspective, despite the number of posts I've made here, my problems are not that bad.


Mechanical fit and finish on my D2 is fine -- including the physical fit of the HDMI plugs.


I believe my D2 is demonstrating heat related unreliability on the HDMI connections, but I anticipated that due to the way I've installed it, and a sufficiently powerful external fan seems to fix that. There's a DIFFERENT set of HDMI connection problems that appears to be entirely due to the poorly engineered Comcast/Motorola HD/DVR -- and no surprise about that either.


No audio problems so far on my D2. In fact the audio has exceeded my expectations.


Firmware upgrade to V1.06 made HDMI much more reliable.


Firmware upgrade to V1.06 appears to have broken Color and Tint input controls in the D2 for my Pioneer 59avi DVD player (which sends 480i RGB via HDMI). These used to work with V1.00. Color and Tint are still working, however for my Comcast HDMI input. This appears to be a bug, but a relatively minor one from my perspective.


Firmware upgrade to V1.06 was made more complicated than it should have been because Anthem shipped a piece of software -- live settings editor -- that wasn't intended for use with the original V1.00 software and didn't mention that. This is a minor documentation issue.


I would love to see my Comcast box magically start to work right, and I still hold out hope that Anthem's future firmware will handle it better, but I've no doubt at all that the main problem here is with the Comcast box -- and I'll probably end up switching to Component conections from the Comcast once I get tired of torturing the D2 this way.


------------------------------------------------------------------


So my only major complaint about the D2 is that I still have not been able to eliminate noise in the low grays sufficiently. Whatever is going on between my D2 and my Fujitsu plasma, it shouldn't be this tough to find a calibration solution that eliminates this noise -- which I suspect is dithering noise due to both the D2 and the Fujitsu dithering low grays.


There is no such noise when I connect my 59avi directly to the Fujitsu (HDMI to DVI). Of course that's done at 480p resolution (since DVI won't handle 480i) and right now I've got the D2 sending 1360x768p to the Fujitsu, with 480i coming in over HDMI to the D2 from the 59avi. So there are, I suppose, ways this could prove to NOT be a D2 problem. But right now it sure seems to be a D2 problem.


Imagery outside of the lowest grays is spectacular, so I'm willing to spend the time to fight this one some more. I'll be making another calibration pass after I reassemble things later this week.


----------------------------------------------------------------


So for the folks who've gotten flakey initial units, or replacement units, you have my sympathies. Anthem really should be better at this. Keep giving them heck.


And it is inexcusible that Anthem is trying to wash their hands of their mechanical problems with their choice of HDMI sockets.


And for folks who aren't comfortable out at the bleeding edge of new products, this is probably not the time to buy a D2.


But personally, I'm still happier to have the D2 than to have purchased, say, the top end Lexicon unit. Your angst tolerance may vary.

--Bob


----------



## DrJRapp

Bob,


My second D2 runs far cooler than the first. It appears Anthem has put some attention into the heat issue. I can't be sure if the instabilities in the video and audio demonstrated in my first D2 have been the cause of the heat or are the result of the heat.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Jerry,

That's interesting! Particular if you really did get a re-tread older unit.


They didn't add a fan did they?


I wonder where they made the heat go?


-------------------------------------------------------------


Apple had a problem with their recent laptops where they were overheating because manufacturing failed to pull off a strip of dust-protective, clear saran wrap during final assembly. The strip covered the rear heat vents and was not easily seen by owners since it was hidden by the display hinge.


Wouldn't it be something if Anthem just discovered a similar manufacturing error that kept their venting from doing its job?

--Bob


----------



## lchurch

My origional D2 (130742) was a hot one too. I suspected at the time it was a run away process in the video processor (due to the weird colors that would appear and require a power cycle to correct). Several large fans helped extend the playing time (before thermal shutdown).


My replacement D2 (130802), about a month later, has been spectacular. No problems. It runs warmer than I think it should (but way cooler than my first D2), so out of paranoia, I have an auxerillery fan on it. I've had no HDMI problems. no color problems, works great!


larry


----------



## PaulT_BC

Gennum has come out with a lower heat generating GF9351 chip recently (January of this year) and I wonder if Anthem is upgrading units as they come through the door?. It is a drop in replacement for the GF9350:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post6899065 

http://www.gennum.com/ip/gf9351.html 


Can anyone with a unit that is no longer generating lots of heat 'as before' specify the VSX chipset in their unit?

Jerry & larry, - can you confirm you have 9351 vs 9350 or do all units have the 9351?


----------



## Monty Williams

I started reading this thread early last week after deciding to look at a dedicated pre/pro to replace the Pioneer Elite 84TXSi receiver I am currently using in front 3 Bryston SST amps. After reading the first 10-15 pages, the Anthem D2 seemed like it had everything I wanted and found lacking in the Bryston, Lexicon, and Meridian pre/pro's I have demo'd and/or owned - such as balanced XLR outputs, the latest surround sound formats, HDMI, video upscaling, rack mountable, available in black, etc. So I ordered the D2 the middle of last week and it's supposed to be here sometime towards the end of this week.


However, I just got finished reading the entire thread up to page 40 and it seems like the D2 is full of bugs and defects. I'm still looking forward to it as I believe that on forums like these, the general trend is for folks with problems to post more frequently than those who are enjoying defect free products. Unfortunately, I am also hoping I didn't make a mistake because my current setup is performing flawlessly and I have had no HDMI issues. Fingers crossed....


----------



## lchurch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can anyone with a unit that is no longer generating lots of heat 'as before' specify the VSX chipset in their unit?
> 
> Jerry & larry, - can you confirm you have 9351 vs 9350 or do all units have the 9351?



PaulT_BC,


Unless there is a software query, I have no idea. Everything is in a _large_ Salamander cabinet that I would have to pull out to get access to the rear of the D2. The D2 has a large number of cables connected to it (including several, apparently fragile, HDMI cables).


That's a question you should ask Anthem.


larry


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lchurch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> PaulT_BC,
> 
> 
> Unless there is a software query, I have no idea. Everything is in a _large_ Salamander cabinet that I would have to pull out to get access to the rear of the D2. The D2 has a large number of cables connected to it (including several, apparently fragile, HDMI cables).
> 
> 
> That's a question you should ask Anthem.
> 
> 
> larry



When you run the software it gives you the name of the chip. some one had posted that when he ran the update it would freeze and it was the VSX chipset.


He originally posted the number but for some reason went back and edited.


It is in this thread somewhere.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Monty Williams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm still looking forward to it as I believe that on forums like these, the general trend is for folks with problems to post more frequently than those who are enjoying defect free products.



You are correct on that assertion. These threads do become a place for those of us with problems to both seek solutions and vent. What alarms me is the fact that more than a few of us have had more than one defective unit. This statistically shouldn't happen unless there is a high incidence of defects. Then again that does happen randomly also. Back in my Rotel days I received a replacement RSP 1098 that had a defect. Rotel quickly identified the problem and sent me a board that I was able to replace and all was well. The D2 is far more complex, and there are many more interactive issues wiith peripheral equipment, so the solution isn't always simple....but it should not be this difficult and time consuming.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Firmware upgrade to V1.06 was made more complicated than it should have been because Anthem shipped a piece of software -- live settings editor -- that wasn't intended for use with the original V1.00 software and didn't mention that. This is a minor documentation issue.



Bob, as I have indicated, I have yet to upgrade software to 1.06 from 1.0. What do I have to be careful about with the live settings editor in accomplishing such an upgrade?


I ask this question looking for the answer, but I am still wary of upgrading the firmware since my unit and sources seem to be working together pretty darn good right now. but, at some point I will have to jump in and do so.


I am an Anthem D2 owner who is happy that he jumped on the bandwagon almost 4 months ago. No doubt, these forums seem to highlight the problems and fixes for these highly complicted electronic marvels. Let' remember that there are many of us who have been lucky enough to have D2's that fit into our systems problem free.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> there are many of us who have been lucky enough to have D2's that fit into our systems problem free.



Stan.....Ar'nt you on your second D2? I guess you ment that there are many, but accidently included yourself in that group...lol


----------



## obie_fl

Well...Just to provide a little counterpoint I have my D2 set up without any major issues. I'm actually kind of surprised after reading some of the horror stories here that it is working quite well so far. I haven't had much time with mine so long term reliability is still an unknown. I'm using a Toshiba A1 HD DVD player, Pioneer Elite 79AVi, and a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR with Passport software. All are connected via HDMI with the latest firmware loaded on the D2 and the Toshiba. Display is DVI.


----------



## randman

After upgrading to firmware v1.06, my Anthem works great! Picture and sound are wonderful. I have a Denon DVD-3910 and a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD connected via HDMI. They work fine. I recently assembled a new Salamander Synergy rack and also bought a Middle Atlantic UQFP-2 fan to install in the rack. The fan is suppossed to be fairly quiet at 24db. My Anthem is currently in a built-in. I haven't transferred my Anthem to the new rack yet. The Anthem, while in my built-in, does not run hot. It runs a little warm, but no big deal. I have lots of clearance above it. I originally bought the fan after reading this thread. I have not yet installed it. I may not need the fan, given the clearance I have above the D2.


So far, I'm happy with my D2, particularly after upgrading to v1.06 firmware.


----------



## LEVESQUE

Same thing here. I have mine since january. One of the first unit out. I'm running 1.06, and everything is rock solid.


There is cold air constantly blowing in my rack so all my equipment is running really cool (dedicated heat-pump for the HT room and the rack only). My only "problem" is with my Star Choice DSR530 (satellite STB). I need to power it on after the D2, or else I get a "pink screen". All the rest is working w/o issues (Toshiba HD-A1, Samsung BD-P1000, Oppo 970HD, Pioneer DVR-633H-S recorder).


My unit is now 8 months old and it's working great for me. Picture quality is outstanding with HD disks and the Sony Ruby projector at 1080p60. Same thing with audio over HDMI.


This is a breakthrough product. Early adoptors are always (sadly) dealing with those kind of problems. Go take a look in the video processors section of AVS just for fun. All the new high-end video processors (some of those costing around the same price than the D2!) are having major problems with HDMI, and other "bugs". For example, the new Algolith Dragonfly is buggy like crazy, the Vantage-HD is getting the "new firmware available" festival also, the VP30 is still having HDMI problems, the Crystalio II (using the same Gennum chip..) is having (strangely...) some of the same problems that people are having with the D2...


But it's not all the D2s that are having major issues. I know it's nice to have a place to vent sometimes, and that it can be REALLY frustrating sometimes to get a bad unit...


----------



## nkb

Well, I have been off the forum for a while waiting for my fourth (yes, that is correct: 4!) D2.


This time the plan was to test it at the dealer before taking it home.


I brought my new HDMI cables, my Marantz 9600 DVD, and we hooked up the new (4th) D2 to a Panasonic 50" plasma (same model as I have at home). I personally made all the connections under the watchful eye of the dealer. Everything checked out.


Went home, reconnected everything. And everything still worked over HDMI. So, I was very happy and relieved and sat back to enjoy.


BUT.....shortly thereafter, as I was watching a DVD, not touching anything, about 15 minutes of total D2 uptime(including time at the dealer), the picture went blank. Now there is no HDMI video whatsoever. I have power cycled. NOTHING.


I inspected the video out HDMI jack and it looks fine.


I am now letting the D2 sit for a protracted time, unplugged to see if it will revive itself.


I am more disappointed than angry at this point. I called the dealer, he is beside himself.


Notes:

a. The unit did not appear hot at all when it quit. The newer units may in fact be running cooler.


b. Anthem has in fact changed to a different design for the HDMI jack. The new ones have retention clips on the upper edge. The old design had none. This had been my specific recommendation to them. They either heeded my advice or because of all the HDMI problems realized that they had to change regardless. I do note that their choice of jack still is not the best as the upper clips are biased to one side and not symmetric. Still not a good idea in terms of the mechanical loads on the HDMI pin wafer. Not sure why they are not using the design being used on other mainstream equipment that provides symmetric guidance and load.


c. For those that feel they have a recycled unit. Because I have had four now, I have some idea of the serial number history. What is the serial number on your "new" unit. I might be able to tell you if it really is new.



At this point, I am wrungout. As I said I am more disappointed than anything. Just so tantalizing to have it work beautifully and then just like that it's gone, without having done a thing!


I cannot see going another round on this. We'll see.


----------



## tycoondog2

LEVESQUE


We all know this is a break through product and we all know that HDMI has been a complete disaster as far as compliance goes.


What is true as NKB has stated as well as others it the build quality of these units. How many other posts are out there about HDMI jacks shorting out or the cables just falling out.


As you seem well connected with Anthem what are they doing to address these problems. When are we going to see a credible review of the D2.


Don't get me wrong I would love to have a cool working Anthem D2 in my system but the odds on getting a good unit are not good and the replacement time way to long.


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am more disappointed than angry at this point. I called the dealer, he is beside himself.



I know exactly how you feel - I myself have been through five ( 5!!!) Integra Research RDC-7.1 processors and several ATI made amps.


R


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those that feel they have a recycled unit. Because I have had four now, I have some idea of the serial number history. What is the serial number on your "new" unit. I might be able to tell you if it really is new.



Why don't you post the serial numbers of the units you returned in this thread? That's what I did in the IR thread.


R


----------



## nkb

Here is my serial number history:


1. #130741, received 6/8/2006. Died after 10 minutes of viewing. (Exactly same behavior as my 4th unit). Anthem said don't fool with it, just return it.


2. #130502, received 6/27/2006. Apparently HDMI jack failure. Note serial number was earlier than first unit.


3. #131206, received 7/14/2006. HDMI jack failure


4. #131538, received 8/7/2006. Died after ~15 minutes of viewing. (Similar to 1).



While you may not have exactly the same unit numbers as above, if you have received a "new" unit that does not have a serial number that fits in the sequence (i.e. a much earlier number) then you may have a reconditioned unit?


Hope this helps.


BTW: After 1.5 hours of unplugged "rest", still no video from the D2 HDMI. I am now going back to component. However, because of the DVD copy protection restrictions on scaling component output, this really is not a final solution. Without the HDMI connections, the D2 loses a lot of its video capability.


Not quite sure what I am going to do. I really want the D2 to work. It has only served to tease me by working for a short while. I think I have been incredibly patient and Anthem has tried to be helpful. But, in the end, I still don't have a functioning D2. Will discuss with dealer as to what the next step might be. I can tell you however, if I had read on this forum what I have gone through I would have punted and moved on to some other product(s). I have been very pleased with the quality and performance of the other equipment in my system (McIntosh 3x501's, McIntosh 252, B&W 2x802D, B&W HTM2D, B&W ASW825, Marantz DVD 9600, Escient Fireball 400Gb). Even my DirecTV HD SAT receiver has been OK. I did not expect the D2 to be a weak link.


----------



## Monty Williams




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can tell you however, if I had read on this forum what I have gone through I would have punted and moved on to some other product(s).



That's what I'm thinking, but I don't know if the Anthem dealer is going to let me cancel the order I placed last week. I've never used them before placing the order, my usual dealer doesn't carry Anthem.


I'm tempted to ask though as the second half of this thread is starting to make me realize how trouble free and reliable my current system is and I'm starting to wonder if the relatively minor improvements are worth the potential trouble and expense.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Stan.....Ar'nt you on your second D2? I guess you ment that there are many, but accidently included yourself in that group...lol



jerry, I have always indicated that my first D2 had a defective hdmi switcher (only one hdmi input would work). But, my dealer and Anthem were great. I kept the first unit in play until the replacement unit was delivered four days later. IMO, no reason not to include myself in that group.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Stan,

If your current D2 firmware is V1.00, don't bother trying the live settings editor that comes with the V1.06 upgrade. Apparently it is only compatible with V1.04 and later.


Instead use the Setup Editor that also comes with that upgrade to save your current settings to the PC before doing the upgrade to V1.06. Then use it again to restore your settings to the D2 after the upgrade.


Live Settings Editor probably works just fine as well after the upgrade, but I haven't tried it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nkb,

It really sounds to me like you've got something else going on here than just a 4th flakey D2.


I would suggest the following:


1) Turn everything off.


2) Disconnect everything from the D2 except for power and your HDMI cable to the display. Disconnect everything from the display except for power and the HDMI cable from the D2.


3) Leaving the display turned off, power on the D2 and navigate -- using it's front panel display -- to the Setup / Video Output menu. Select 720 x 480p resolution for the HDMI output. Accept that change and back out of the menu.


4) Power off the D2. Power on the display. Wait a moment for it to be ready. Now power on the D2 (it doesn't matter what input the D2 has as selected since nothing is connected to any input). Does the Anthem splash screen come on the display against a blue background? If so, cycle to the Video Source Adjustments / Patterns menu (under the "7" key) and play around with different patterns for a while to see if the connection to the display remains stable for a few minutes.


[If you have no output to your display, double check that both ends of the HDMI cable are fully inserted and that the correct input is selected on the display. This last is in case there is a remote control conflict which is causing your display to change inputs when you use the D2 remote control.]


5) If all is working fine, then go back into the D2's Setup / Video Output menu and select the display resolution you really want to use. Accept that change and see if you have a stable image on the display for a few minutes -- again with nothing else connected to the D2 or the display.


[If you had a stable image at 480p but not at your normal, higher, resolution then this points to a bandwidth problem to your display -- a bad display cable, or too long a cable, or possibly a problem with that display input.]


6) Assuming you can get a stable image on the display at your desired resolution in this fashion, the next step is to hook up JUST the HDMI cable from your favorite source device and see if that now works. What I'm looking for here is to isolate any shorts or ground loops that might be interfering with proper D2 operation. So don't hook up any additional audio or video or trigger connections to or from the D2. If you can get an image from the source to the display in this fashion, leave it this way for a while to see if it remains stable. Of course you'll have no audio since the input audio is not connected and the output amp is also not connected.


7) If you can get a stable image from source to display this way, then you should suspect that some OTHER connection you have been using is interfering with proper D2 operation. For example, a trigger that's drawing too much current, or a shorted audio cable, or a severe ground loop. I suppose it's even conceivable that you have voltage loss on your wall power when other things are turned on as well. The idea is to isolate down to JUST the HDMI connections and see if they can be made stable all by themselves. If not, then I guess you really do have a 4th flakey D2. Keep an eye out for remote control conflicts as well. Is the display's remote causing the D2 to do something or vice versa?

--Bob


----------



## nkb

Well, since my HDMI video out was not working I figured I would go back to the old reliable component like I had done successfully on prior (defective) units.


Not this time. Component Out also does not work. So, the video out section(HDMI and Component) of the D2 looks completely blown. At least I never was completely out of business on units 1 to 3. But now I am.


(And yes, I changed the setting to component out). I am very, very familiar with the D2 menus now after several months and 4 units.


This is probably the final straw.


Probably no one on this thread wants to discuss this, but what are the (better) alternatives out there? Is the Halcro SSP100 unit, with built in scaler worthwhile, although a review I just read indicates all kinds of problems? Go with separate components, outboard scaler? Or just hang it up for a few years until this all gets sorted out.


Sorry to bring this up. I am glad that a number of you have had good luck with the D2.... but I have been cursed.


----------



## mlbrand

I feel for the people having problems, that must be very frustrating. You lay out that kind of cash and you expect things to work perfectly.


That said, there are quite a few and most likely the majority of D2 owners that are not having any problems, including me. I must also be totally honest and say that I am NOT using HDMI connections at all at this point, so I have not had to mess with this troublesome area. I plan on buying an HDMI display sometime in the future, though after seeing all the compatibility problems others are having I am in no hurry. The D2 has definitely improved my PQ even with component connections, and the audio is stunning, so I am fairly content for now.


Anthem is a first class company that will take care of their customers in the long run.


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> nkb,
> 
> It really sounds to me like you've got something else going on here than just a 4th flakey D2.
> 
> 
> I would suggest the following:
> 
> 
> 1) Turn everything off.
> 
> 
> 2) Disconnect everything from the D2 except for power and your HDMI cable to the display. Disconnect everything from the display except for power and the HDMI cable from the D2.
> 
> 
> 3) Leaving the display turned off, power on the D2 and navigate -- using it's front panel display -- to the Setup / Video Output menu. Select 720 x 480p resolution for the HDMI output. Accept that change and back out of the menu.
> 
> 
> 4) Power off the D2. Power on the display. Wait a moment for it to be ready. Now power on the D2 (it doesn't matter what input the D2 has as selected since nothing is connected to any input). Does the Anthem splash screen come on the display against a blue background? If so, cycle to the Video Source Adjustments / Patterns menu (under the "7" key) and play around with different patterns for a while to see if the connection to the display remains stable for a few minutes.
> 
> 
> [If you have no output to your display, double check that both ends of the HDMI cable are fully inserted and that the correct input is selected on the display. This last is in case there is a remote control conflict which is causing your display to change inputs when you use the D2 remote control.]
> 
> 
> 5) If all is working fine, then go back into the D2's Setup / Video Output menu and select the display resolution you really want to use. Accept that change and see if you have a stable image on the display for a few minutes -- again with nothing else connected to the D2 or the display.
> 
> 
> [If you had a stable image at 480p but not at your normal, higher, resolution then this points to a bandwidth problem to your display -- a bad display cable, or too long a cable, or possibly a problem with that display input.]
> 
> 
> 6) Assuming you can get a stable image on the display at your desired resolution in this fashion, the next step is to hook up JUST the HDMI cable from your favorite source device and see if that now works. What I'm looking for here is to isolate any shorts or ground loops that might be interfering with proper D2 operation. So don't hook up any additional audio or video or trigger connections to or from the D2. If you can get an image from the source to the display in this fashion, leave it this way for a while to see if it remains stable. Of course you'll have no audio since the input audio is not connected and the output amp is also not connected.
> 
> 
> 7) If you can get a stable image from source to display this way, then you should suspect that some OTHER connection you have been using is interfering with proper D2 operation. For example, a trigger that's drawing too much current, or a shorted audio cable, or a severe ground loop. I suppose it's even conceivable that you have voltage loss on your wall power when other things are turned on as well. The idea is to isolate down to JUST the HDMI connections and see if they can be made stable all by themselves. If not, then I guess you really do have a 4th flakey D2. Keep an eye out for remote control conflicts as well. Is the display's remote causing the D2 to do something or vice versa?
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I appreciate your taking the time to help. I have everything disconnected except for the HDMI out and the power cord. This is then connected to my plasma HDMI in. The plasma only has power and the HDMI connected.


There is no picture. I never get the certifying HDMI message as it powers up. I did change the resolution down to 480i but that is moot as it never gets that far. There is no splash screen, no OSD from setup. Double checked that the plasma was on HDMI (Video 5). Tried different power up sequences between the D2 and the plasma.


Also, removed the HDMI and tried component (which has always worked in the past). Changed to component display on the plasma(Video 3), changed to Component for video out on the D2. Nothing. This unit is really dead.


Again this unit functioned properly for ~15 minutes, and then with no changes or connections being made, playing a DVD, simply went "poof" - blank screen.


Thanks for the input, but I think this is beyond repair at this level.


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I feel for the people having problems, that must be very frustrating. You lay out that kind of cash and you expect things to work perfectly.
> 
> 
> That said, there are quite a few and most likely the majority of D2 owners that are not having any problems, including me. I must also be totally honest and say that I am NOT using HDMI connections at all at this point, so I have not had to mess with this troublesome area. I plan on buying an HDMI display sometime in the future, though after seeing all the compatibility problems others are having I am in no hurry. The D2 has definitely improved my PQ even with component connections, and the audio is stunning, so I am fairly content for now.
> 
> 
> Anthem is a first class company that will take care of their customers in the long run.



Sincerely, I am glad you aren't having problems with the D2. As you say, perhaps because you aren't using HDMI. That said, when you play some DVD's do you not run into the Macrovision copy protection that limits output to 480p when using component? If using HDMI you don't have that limitation. That's why I want the HDMI to work, plus the much neater cabling situation.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> jerry, I have always indicated that my first D2 had a defective hdmi switcher (only one hdmi input would work). But, my dealer and Anthem were great. I kept the first unit in play until the replacement unit was delivered four days later. IMO, no reason not to include myself in that group.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am an Anthem D2 owner who is happy that he jumped on the bandwagon almost 4 months ago. No doubt, these forums seem to highlight the problems and fixes for these highly complicted electronic marvels. Let' remember that there are many of us who have been lucky enough to have D2's that fit into our systems problem free.





The implication you give people is that you never had a problem with a D2 and your equipment. If they don't read the entire (somewhat ponderous) thread, they would not know that it took your 2 units to get there. That isn't a perfect track record.


I know you are an attorney by profession, you should familiar with the implications of "failure to disclose"....... I look at the moral obligations.


Once my dealer and Anthem get me a D2 that works, they will get the praise that they deserve, however, I will always let people know what it took to get there.


OBTW, it turns out that the current D2 malfunctions based on turn on sequence, just like Levesque's SAT receiver, except it effects two of my devices. Al may consider that minor, however, I consider that a major deficiency in the D2 switching software, nothing to be "soft"-sold, or played down because it reduces the usability of the D2 with most system automation. Not all of us want to stand on our head and spit wooden nickels to get our gear to work. we just want to push a button.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by gostan
> 
> jerry, I have always indicated that my first D2 had a defective hdmi switcher (only one hdmi input would work). But, my dealer and Anthem were great. I kept the first unit in play until the replacement unit was delivered four days later. IMO, no reason not to include myself in that group.


This was stated in thread #166





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by gostan
> 
> I am an Anthem D2 owner who is happy that he jumped on the bandwagon almost 4 months ago. No doubt, these forums seem to highlight the problems and fixes for these highly complicted electronic marvels. Let' remember that there are many of us who have been lucky enough to have D2's that fit into our systems problem free.


This was stated in thread #1179






> Quote:
> The implication you give people is that you never had a problem with a D2 and your equipment. If they don't read the entire (somewhat ponderous) thread, they would not know that it took your 2 units to get there. That isn't a perfect track record.


I was going to insert parentheticals reconfirming that it took two D2's to get there, but I figured that I had already stated so 13 threads earlier and most of us are reading all of them.



> Quote:
> I know you are an attorney by profession, you should familiar with the implications of "failure to disclose"....... I look at the moral obligations.


Just shows that it is true that a lawyer should never represent him/herself!!



> Quote:
> Once my dealer and Anthem get me a D2 that works, they will get the praise that they deserve, however, I will always let people know what it took to get there.


Unfortunately for you, my friend, your full disclosure response would be a full page long.



> Quote:
> OBTW, it turns out that the current D2 malfunctions based on turn on sequence, just like Levesque's SAT receiver, except it effects two of my devices. Al may consider that minor, however, I cosider that a major deficiency in the D2 switching software, nothing to be "soft"-sold, or played down because it reduces the usability of the D2 with most system autimation. Not all of us want to stand on our head and spit wooden nickels to get our gear to work. we just want to push a button. His SAT receiver is not a 1 off or espoteric unit. It is a common device by a major manufacturer.


I hope that I am not in for this type of trouble when I add a Tivo Series 3 and Comcast cable to my DirecTV when the Series 3's becomes available.


I am looking forward to the end of this month. Hopefully no early hurricanes down there in SF.


----------



## DrJRapp

I'm afraid if we took a poll that we would find very few people with D2 that have worked 100%. This whole thing reminds me of the early days of Windows 98 and plug and play. Except this is 2006 and we should be much better at it nowadays.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> Unfortunately for you, my friend, your full disclosure response would be a full page long.



Well, it will make for some interesting reading in the review I'm preparing for HTG forum.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Monty Williams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's what I'm thinking, but I don't know if the Anthem dealer is going to let me cancel the order I placed last week. I've never used them before placing the order, my usual dealer doesn't carry Anthem.
> 
> 
> I'm tempted to ask though as the second half of this thread is starting to make me realize how trouble free and reliable my current system is and I'm starting to wonder if the relatively minor improvements are worth the potential trouble and expense.



Monty,


I had owned 4 generations of Pio flagship receivers (and still own most as hammy downs to other rooms in the house), but upgraded to the Anthem and will never go back.


The improvements, at least for somebody with a 1080p display, are major IMHO. I'm on my first D2, gone through 3 software upgrades, and have had only one scary moment where I was admittedly playing with settings and I black screened, fixed with a reset to defaults and a reload of the software.


I connect HDMI (2 on a switcher)

HD-DVD (Tosh), Blu-ray (Samsung), LD (Pio), DVD 59AVi (Pio), Symmetry, DVHS#2

Component

Cable (Moto, have avoided HDMI with every scaler or receiver based on prior experiences), DVD (Zenith), DVHS#1

S

LD (Pio)

Connected to an HD2K at 1080p/60, there is an HDMI switcher between the Anthem and the projector to switch in two computer sources


Other than desiring 5 HDMI ports inputs and automated multi-position calibration, I would put the Anthem as about perfect with the added flexibility of the software downloads that my flagships never had.


----------



## MStanic

If my TV does not have an HDMI connection, is there any advantage to getting a D2 to replace my D1? My TV does do high def via component.


Thanks.


----------



## ripclawsa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I were in your shoes I would take a long hard look before making the D2 leap. Anthem obviously hasn't exterminated the bugs after nearly 6 months.



Jerry, after reading the most recent posts from nkb, I have decided to sit on the sidelines. I am actually thinking of keeping my existing system as-is and might decide to buy a seperate scaler (the Crystalio II appeals to me, but that has been beset by it's own share of problems).


I do plan on buying the (excellent) Marantz DV9600 player. In my country, we don't have HD-DVD as yet, and lord only knows when Blu-Ray will make an appearance.


So my humble advice and possible appeal to those who are on the fence about buying a D2 is to just sit tight and wait and see what Anthem does.


nkb, I am really sorry to hear about your troubles. I would have given up a long time ago, probably after my 2nd unit. Good luck with whatever you decide.










Cheers.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If my TV does not have an HDMI connection, is there any advantage to getting a D2 to replace my D1? My TV does do high def via component.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Your D1 will switch HiDef component signals. I would upgrade only if you need a scaler, however, most displays have a rudamentary B/I scaler.


----------



## wingnut4772

Well I finally got my D2 and I only have it partially set up as I am still waiting on my Salamander furniture. I got it locally for a pretty nice price so no warranty issues. At first I noticed a slight inconsistency with the brightness through the scaler but last night I watched an entire movie and did not notice this at all. It seems to only be affecting my Sat input if at all anymore...?


The audio processing on this thing is terrific. I am so happy with the 2 channel so far. It sounds amazing.


The PQ on my 61" 1080p Sammy noticeably improved also. Especially SD..but everything looks amazing. Last night I was watching an SD DVD and I had to keep reminding myself that it was not HD. ( I can not say enough about the PQ quality of the Samsung HLS6187 set also).


The unit runs HOT. I put a fan on the venting on the right though and now it's way cool. All my HDMI inputs seem fine. Nothing is loose or broken. I wouldn't input the HDMI cable from 50 yard sprint, but they seem fine.


The only issues I seem to have so far is that the HDMI handshake seems to be touchy. As long as I turn everything on and switch inputs in a particular order and time it seems to take ok. That should be a really interesting project for my Harmony 890!














I am using aToshiba HD A1 with great results.



Last night, I was listening to a redbook CD on my Pioneer 79avi via HDMI and had some issues with the unit cycling through HDMI, Analog etc. I turned the HDMI repeater to 'NO' and this seems to be corrected so far.


Hopefully as I keep setting it up to the full 7.1 with the Harmony etc. I will keep having good luck but I love my D2 so far.


----------



## Monty Williams




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Monty,
> 
> 
> I had owned 4 generations of Pio flagship receivers (and still own most as hammy downs to other rooms in the house), but upgraded to the Anthem and will never go back.
> 
> 
> The improvements, at least for somebody with a 1080p display, are major IMHO. I'm on my first D2, gone through 3 software upgrades, and have had only one scary moment where I was admittedly playing with settings and I black screened, fixed with a reset to defaults and a reload of the software.
> 
> 
> I connect HDMI (2 on a switcher)
> 
> HD-DVD (Tosh), Blu-ray (Samsung), LD (Pio), DVD 59AVi (Pio), Symmetry, DVHS#2
> 
> Component
> 
> Cable (Moto, have avoided HDMI with every scaler or receiver based on prior experiences), DVD (Zenith), DVHS#1
> 
> S
> 
> LD (Pio)
> 
> Connected to an HD2K at 1080p/60, there is an HDMI switcher between the Anthem and the projector to switch in two computer sources
> 
> 
> Other than desiring 5 HDMI ports inputs and automated multi-position calibration, I would put the Anthem as about perfect with the added flexibility of the software downloads that my flagships never had.



I hear you, that's why I ordered the D2 last week, it's just that the second half of this thread has made me wonder if it's going to be worth it.


I'd really love to be able to input 1080p into my Ruby, versus the 1080i my current video scaler is limited too. But I just ahve to wonder if it's worth potential HDMI problems. I have a HD-A1 HD DVD, a 79AVi, and a Comcast HD STB all connected via HDMI (and will add the HDMI dongle for the XBOX360), and only HDMI out to my projector. I have never had any HDMI problem with this setup other than the initial issues with the HD-A1 which have been corrected by Toshiba via their firmware downloads. HDMI issues is not something I want to get into.


The D2 should be here any day now, hopefully I'll be one of the lucky one's.


----------



## LEVESQUE

Monty.


My Pioneer Elite 79AVi (I don't have it anymore, I sold it not so long ago...), my Toshiba HD-A1 and my Ruby were all working fine with my D2. The Gennum scaler is clearly superior to the Ruby internal scaler, particularly with a 480i signal, and also with a 1080i signal in video mode.


I was able to compare that set-up with the IScan VP30, and with a 1080i signal the Gennum scaler of the D2 was superior (no "bob" with Gennum). I was also able to try the Algolith Dragonfly (Realta HQV) 2 weeks ago, and the Gennum is better with 480i, and pratically the same with 1080i. The Realta is a little bit better, but not by far with 1080i.


----------



## Monty Williams

That's reassuring to hear. Thanks.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sincerely, I am glad you aren't having problems with the D2. As you say, perhaps because you aren't using HDMI. That said, when you play some DVD's do you not run into the Macrovision copy protection that limits output to 480p when using component? If using HDMI you don't have that limitation. That's why I want the HDMI to work, plus the much neater cabling situation.



I do run into the copy protection limiting output to 480p on regular DVD's, but am continuously amazed at how good 480p looks out of the D2's Gennum scaler. I look forward to the day when I get an HDMI compatible display, but as I said earlier I am in no hurry, especially when my SD DVD's look pretty darn good through my trusty old Pioneer 64" RPTV, and HD looks awesome!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

mlbrand,

With regular DVDs you'd likely get even better results sending 480i (instead of 480p) to the D2. The D2's de-interlacing is exceptional. It's better to let the D2 handle this than most any regular DVD player.


SDTV channels should also be sent as 480i to the D2.

--Bob


----------



## nkb

Having no palatable plan B available: Anthem is shipping me another D2 (number 5).


Not a lot to say at this point except that Anthem is certainly being responsive and responsible. Needless to say, everyone is perplexed and frustrated.


I just hope that I have been the victim of some rare cosmic collision of events and that this next D2 is going to do the trick. Two of my units were defective because of HDMI jack problems (so that is understood) - I think my experiences on that along with others has led to an improved jack design now being installed. But, the other two failures are unknown, at this point. When they get #4 back they can tear into it and diagnose its problem (no video out - HDMI or component).



The D2's continue to be in short supply, virtually none available at the factory(maybe 1), some in the distributor pipeline. My dealer and Anthem were able to locate one in the US and are shipping it out today.


Looking forward to joining the satisfied D2 user community. The D2 IS working for some of you!










PS: I would easily have jumped ship by now (and may still yet) but I don't see another alternative out there that has the same "promise" of performance. Maybe I am wrong on that and (hopefully not) I will just need to look harder - thus my earlier question about alternatives.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> PS: I would easily have jumped ship by now (and may still yet) but I don't see another alternative out there that has the same "promise" of performance. Maybe I am wrong on that and (hopefully not) I will just need to look harder - thus my earlier question about alternatives.



Promise or not...the D2 is the only game in town right now.


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Promis or not...the D2 is the only game in town right now.



The Halcro SSP100 seems to have similar features (i.e. built-in video scaling, HDMI, etc.). But, it looks like its video output is limited to the "common" resolutions(480,720,1080) and not the wider range of native display resolutions (although I haven't yet been able to determine that the D2 will do this for my Fujitsu plasma). Also, the Halcro review I read indicated equipment failures as well.


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Promise or not...the D2 is the only game in town right now.



In NKB's case that is about 15 minutes viewing in the last month. Maybe it is best to go with a seperate pre/pro and scaler at this time. Ay least if the scaler goes you can still have sound and hook up your display direct.


Maybe we will see some new product like the D2 at Cedia.


I am sure Anthem is probably re working the board at this time, which is probably

why there is no D1 upgrade just yet.


My wife for one hopes they can get things together, so she can use the Home Theater when I'm not around.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are correct on that assertion. These threads do become a place for those of us with problems to both seek solutions and vent. What alarms me is the fact that more than a few of us have had more than one defective unit. This statistically shouldn't happen unless there is a high incidence of defects. Then again that does happen randomly also. Back in my Rotel days I received a replacement RSP 1098 that had a defect. Rotel quickly identified the problem and sent me a board that I was able to replace and all was well. The D2 is far more complex, and there are many more interactive issues wiith peripheral equipment, so the solution isn't always simple....but it should not be this difficult and time consuming.



I was not so lucky with my 1098 and some of my friends with 1068, as you did.

on the other hand I'm happy with my D2, and I have no problems at all.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was also able to try the Algolith Dragonfly (Realta HQV) 2 weeks ago, and the Gennum is better with 480i, and pratically the same with 1080i. The Realta is a little bit better, but not by far with 1080i.



The Anthem was a joy compared to my aborted attempt to work the DragonFly. I give them credit for taking it back quickly after a series of reported problems, and features missing (like watching component in on HDMI out). I had two scalers active to work around problems and the most convoluted macros a remote has ever seen







So the grass was greener coming to Anthem for me.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Having no palatable plan B available: Anthem is shipping me another D2 (number 5).
> 
> 
> Not a lot to say at this point except that Anthem is certainly being responsive and responsible. Needless to say, everyone is perplexed and frustrated.
> 
> 
> I just hope that I have been the victim of some rare cosmic collision of events and that this next D2 is going to do the trick. Two of my units were defective because of HDMI jack problems (so that is understood) - I think my experiences on that along with others has led to an improved jack design now being installed. But, the other two failures are unknown, at this point. When they get #4 back they can tear into it and diagnose its problem (no video out - HDMI or component).
> 
> 
> 
> The D2's continue to be in short supply, virtually none available at the factory(maybe 1), some in the distributor pipeline. My dealer and Anthem were able to locate one in the US and are shipping it out today.
> 
> 
> Looking forward to joining the satisfied D2 user community. The D2 IS working for some of you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: I would easily have jumped ship by now (and may still yet) but I don't see another alternative out there that has the same "promise" of performance. Maybe I am wrong on that and (hopefully not) I will just need to look harder - thus my earlier question about alternatives.



I can't believe you have 4 D2 problems

on the other post that was shut down I have suggested to you to have it connected at your dealer just to test it, and you agree to it(what happen?)

If I would have problems with My D2 a specially after second unit I would ask the dealer for a burn in period at their store for 24 or 48 hr before I will pick it up

I'm really surprised that Anthem have not asked the dealer for this yet.

BTW
Please stick to the thread title, and lets use it for right reasons.

Sorry LEVESQUE, for being so strong


----------



## DrJRapp

Well, my second D2 died tonight. I can have the choice between inverted video and 5.1 sound or correct video and no sound....nothing else.


I'm seriously thinking of going out and buying a cheap HDMI receiver so I can have something to watch till my dealer and Anthem sort this all out.


----------



## chazanova

Hi all been lurking for awhile and I am considering a d1/upgrade in the future . just to let everyone know I had to return a brand new 84txi due to hdmi issues it would not work with my comcast dvr and it would not properly pass 1080p from a upconverting dvd player it would randomly blip a black screen for a second or two then continue on fine, so it seemes to me Everyone is having issues with hdmi not just anthem just my 02


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> mlbrand,
> 
> With regular DVDs you'd likely get even better results sending 480i (instead of 480p) to the D2. The D2's de-interlacing is exceptional. It's better to let the D2 handle this than most any regular DVD player.
> 
> 
> SDTV channels should also be sent as 480i to the D2.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I have actually tried 480i out of my Pioneer 79avi into the D2, and despite quite a bit of tweaking it did not look as good as 480p out of the Tosh HD-A1 into the D2. I know this is not the conventional wisdom, but that's my experience so far. Maybe I still don't have the Pioneer and D2 tweaked right, but I gave it a good try. If you or others have any setting or tweaking suggestions I might give it a try again.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chazanova* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all been lurking for awhile and I am considering a d1/upgrade in the future . just to let everyone know I had to return a brand new 84txi due to hdmi issues it would not work with my comcast dvr and it would not properly pass 1080p from a upconverting dvd player it would randomly blip a black screen for a second or two then continue on fine, so it seemes to me Everyone is having issues with hdmi not just anthem just my 02



One thing that people must realize is the PROBLEMS are going to get more attention than the praises,

That's Life
















People often find this thread when their D2/AVM50 has problems, they are hoping we can help. This does not take into account the mass majority of people that aren't on this forum that have Anthem gear that haven't had any problems.

Unfortunately, there are going to be problems, it's just the nature of the beast. I do not feel that Anthem has any more (or less) problems than any other manufacture out there, and chazanova proofs it in his statement.


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This does not take into account the mass majority of people that aren't on this forum that have Anthem gear that haven't had any problems.



Do you work for Anthem? If not, your statement's pure speculation, it could very well be that the opposite was true. The only people who really know the percentage of units having problems are the Anthem folks.


R


----------



## wingnut4772

I have to say that it is very disturbing that people here seem to be replacing their D2s 2, 3, 4 and even 5 times. That makes me pretty nervous with just a 3 year warranty considering the $$$ of these things. Mine seems to be ok but who knows about tomorrow?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Razvanel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you work for Anthem? If not, your statement's pure speculation, it could very well be that the opposite was true. The only people who really know the percentage of units having problems are the Anthem folks.
> 
> 
> R



While it is true that Anthem really knows the number of problems reported to them (there may be more), multiple studies show that the vast majority of feedback (>95%) is only about negatives. While forums represent a skewed sample (more intelligent, not ONLY negative) it is typically about making OK things better (tweaks) consumable again by the smarter consumers or diagnostics on problems. Folks like Bob help on both fronts. If you read only this thread you may come to the conclusion that one out of 2 buyers have failures and one out of 4 have received multiple units because of failures. Common sense knows better or a 20 year warranty wouldn't help as Anthem & its parent company would have been out of business months ago.


----------



## DrJRapp

According to my dealer Anthem had a nearly perfect track record with them until release of the D2. The D2 has changed all that.


----------



## Nathan_R

For what it's worth, I'm still very happy with my AVM-50. My gripes are probably due to my lack of understanding everything about the Anthem unit. Someone in this thread PM'd me a solution to my 5.1 audio turning into 2.0, and so far, it has corrected my problem (fwiw, I had HDMI Repeater turned ON for the Toshiba input). I totally fess up to being the idiot in this scenario. With that said, I still can't figure out why my channels appear to be mapped incorrectly on the XA1's Anthem input.



HDMI on any CE device is still a head-scratcher and I applaud Anthem for at least trying to make them all play together nicely.


----------



## Monty Williams




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chazanova* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all been lurking for awhile and I am considering a d1/upgrade in the future . just to let everyone know I had to return a brand new 84txi due to hdmi issues it would not work with my comcast dvr and it would not properly pass 1080p from a upconverting dvd player it would randomly blip a black screen for a second or two then continue on fine, so it seemes to me Everyone is having issues with hdmi not just anthem just my 02



The Comcast/Motorola STB's are notorious for not supporting HDMI or DVI becuase most cable providers haven't enabled the HDMI repeater function within the boxes software. Many people have posted that when they called their cable provider they were informed that their provider does not currently support the HDMI or DVI output. I'd be willing to bet the problem was with your Comcast STB, not your 84TXSi.


What DVD player are you using that upconverts to 1080*p*?


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you read only this thread you may come to the conclusion that one out of 2 buyers have failures and one out of 4 have received multiple units because of failures.



This thread is the only source of info we have, isn't it? The rate of failure could be > than the one you mentioned since most of the D2 owners never heard of the AVS forum or any other forums.


R


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Razvanel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you work for Anthem? If not, your statement's pure speculation, it could very well be that the opposite was true. The only people who really know the percentage of units having problems are the Anthem folks.
> 
> 
> R



Sorry do not work for Anthem, but have a good friend at the dealership, and they are always notify by Anthem of any problems with any of the units they sell.

All the dealers are always notify by anthem if there is a problem with any of the units sold by them, because they have to track Ser # for warranty









my dealer sold 32 avm50/d2

4 problems only

1 had to be replaced do to scaler operation and 3 fixed with software upgrade

and the others must be happy


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> my dealer sold 32 avm50/d2
> 
> 4 problems only
> 
> 1 had to be replaced do to scaler operation and 3 fixed with software upgrade
> 
> and the others must be happy



That's exactly what most dealers will tell you - if they told you otherwise they would be out of business pronto. Dealer 'info' is almost always unreliable.


R


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, my second D2 died tonight. I can have the choice between inverted video and 5.1 sound or correct video and no sound....nothing else.
> 
> 
> I'm seriously thinking of going out and buying a cheap HDMI receiver so I can have something to watch till my dealer and Anthem sort this all out.



Are you going to get another replacement (i.e. 3rd unit)? If so, do they not let you keep the existing D2 until the replacement comes? That has been my case.


So what I have done is take what IS working at the time on the D2 and do a workaround(e.g. component only - of course, requires other cabling than HDMI). At the moment I have NO video so I am just using the failed D2 for audio and sending the video signals direct from source to the display, so I have something to watch.


Instead of buying a cheap HDMI receiver (and throwing away the money), why not spend less on an HDMI switcher and use the D2 for audio only. Or try component, or ... There are a number of workarounds that might be less expensive for (hopefully) an interim solution than buying a new receiver. You should be able to get a replacement D2 in a week or so, from my (extensive) experience.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It would be good to figure out if Anthem is making any running manufacturing changes in the D2 for new units or repaired units. So far there's been one suggestion that Anthem has switched to a different type of HDMI socket and another suggestion that Anthem has done something to reduce the heat output of the unit.


Both of these are probably best thought of as unconfirmed at this point.

--Bob


----------



## Monty Williams

I'm surprised that no one from Anthem, like Nick, has commented on this thread yet. I think it would go a long way towards addressings people's concerns if they offered some kind of explanation, planned remedy, etc.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you going to get another replacement (i.e. 3rd unit)? If so, do they not let you keep the existing D2 until the replacement comes? That has been my case.
> 
> 
> Instead of buying a cheap HDMI receiver (and throwing away the money), why not spend less on an HDMI switcher and use the D2 for audio only.



Great minds think alike. I thought of this solution this AM while driving to work. I already have a $25 manual 2x1 HDMI switcher and enough cables to use the D2 for audio only. My dealer informed me it would take about as long to get another unit as it took to get this one.... about three weeks.


OBTW my dealer says Anthem has plans to use a different HDMI port in the near future. It seems loose HDMI plugs are nearly a universal problem with the D2 and AVM50.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone with a unit that is no longer generating lots of heat 'as before' specify the VSX chipset in their unit?



All the units have 9350

9351 uses lower voltage and it requires different power supply.

9350 and 9351 are same units with different operating voltages.

Hope this helps


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Great minds think alike. I thought of this solution this AM while driving to work. I already have a $25 manual 2x1 HDMI switcher and enough cables to use the D2 for audio only. My dealer informed me it would take about as long to get another unit as it took to get this one.... about three weeks.
> 
> 
> OBTW my dealer says Anthem has plans to use a different HDMI port in the near future. It seems loose HDMI plugs are nearly a universal problem with the D2 and AVM50.



As I reported earlier the D2 that I just received (serial #131538) definitely has different HDMI jacks installed from my previous units. The newer jacks have a retention clip on the upper side. The older jacks had none. This should help two problems:


a. More secure HDMI cabling lessening the problem with the cable falling out.

b. Better loading on the wafer pins avoiding damage/shorting.


I did note that the newer design is still different than others out there in that the retention clips are biased to one side(not symmetric) which still could possibly give an uneven mechanical load on the pins in the jack. It is interesting that there is no universal standard relative to the HDMI jack design for the "retention clips" or lack thereof, just pin configuration and general "envelope" shape. There are at least 4 different jack designs that I am aware of, on top of different chassis and board mount options.


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Monty Williams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm surprised that no one from Anthem, like Nick, has commented on this thread yet. I think it would go a long way towards addressings people's concerns if they offered some kind of explanation, planned remedy, etc.



Nick actually did respond to some earlier posts. I can't remember if it was on this thread or another Anthem D2 one (that got out of hand and got shut down/removed). From what I remember Nick felt his time was more efficiently spent fielding the technical support issues coming in via phone/email. Part of the problem was the tone of the removed thread was not conducive to meaningful and productive dialog.


----------



## Monty Williams




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick actually did respond to some earlier posts. I can't remember if it was on this thread or another Anthem D2 one (that got out of hand and got shut down/removed). From what I remember Nick felt his time was more efficiently spent fielding the technical support issues coming in via phone/email. Part of the problem was the tone of the removed thread was not conducive to meaningful and productive dialog.



That's too bad.


----------



## DrJRapp

I took the afternoon off (well half the afternoon) and picked up a 20' HDMI cable so I could run the output of the D2 to my Samsung LCD in my office. Then, with abundant light, which I don't have at night while using the projector, I started some serious experimentation. The results indicate the following:


HDMI 3 &4 on the D2 are problematical, either the input socket or somewhere internally with the switching topology. When I use 2 devices, one on HDMI1 and one on HDMI2 everything works fine, no matter which two devices I chose. As soon as I add a third on either HDMI3 or 4 the problems with pink screen inversion and missing audio channels start, no matter what devices are hooked to those two inputs.


At least I can operate 2 devices until the next unit arrives.


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I took the afternoon off (well half the afternoon) and picked up a 20' HDMI cable so I could run the output of the D2 to my Samsung LCD in my office. Then, with abundant light, which I don't have at night while using the projector, I started some serious experimentation. The results indicate the following:
> 
> 
> HDMI 3 &4 on the D2 are problematical, either the input socket or somewhere internally with the switching topology. When I use 2 devices, one on HDMI1 and one on HDMI2 everything works fine, no matter which two devices I chose. As soon as I add a third on either HDMI3 or 4 the problems with pink screen inversion and missing audio channels start, no matter what devices are hooked to those two inputs.
> 
> 
> At least I can operate 2 devices until the next unit arrives.



Sounds like your 3 and 4 HDMI jacks may be messed up. Shine a flash light into the jack and look for pin damage (most likely on the underside of the wafer).


----------



## yatchaks

I'm curious, when watching good movie content, what volume setting brings the movie "to life" for you? I'm in a fairly small room and find that -10 usually does the trick. This setting certainly is no where near ear blasting, but a comfortable movie like experience.


To me, this is a higher setting than any of my previous gear, and I realize many factors come in to play here. However, do you feel it takes more volume to get the "oomph" over your previous gear?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm curious, when watching good movie content, what volume setting brings the movie "to life" for you? I'm in a fairly small room and find that -10 usually does the trick. This setting certainly is no where near ear blasting, but a comfortable movie like experience.
> 
> 
> To me, this is a higher setting than any of my previous gear, and I realize many factors come in to play here. However, do you feel it takes more volume to get the "oomph" over your previous gear?



You can't really compare this with anybody else... your amp and speakers will change your zero reference (i.e. noise at 75 or 85dB)..... and once again, to me the amps figure more into the equation as far as efficiency and oomph goes










As an aside, for theatrical features, we mix referencing pink noise at 0VU, which is -20dB below 0dBfs, at a reference level of 85 dB, and that is where I like my dialog to sit at for the most part.


----------



## chazanova




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Monty Williams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Comcast/Motorola STB's are notorious for not supporting HDMI or DVI becuase most cable providers haven't enabled the HDMI repeater function within the boxes software. Many people have posted that when they called their cable provider they were informed that their provider does not currently support the HDMI or DVI output. I'd be willing to bet the problem was with your Comcast STB, not your 84TXSi.
> 
> 
> What DVD player are you using that upconverts to 1080*p*?



I am using a samsung hd960 which does a good job imho

You are partially right monty i would have been able to live with the dvr issue but the black blip screen was not acceptable as it would not apparently pass 1080p (future prob with the htpc I am going to build when richo comes out with their universal player(hd-dvd blu ray) properly so I decided to return it and wait for the hdmi dust to settle plus I don't like the new look of the pioneer . I do however think the anthem is hot though LOL


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sounds like your 3 and 4 HDMI jacks may be messed up. Shine a flash light into the jack and look for pin damage (most likely on the underside of the wafer).



My nearly 60 y/o eyes arn't that good!


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My nearly 60 y/o eyes arn't that good!



I know what you mean!!


----------



## wingnut4772

This may be a silly question but I can't figure out why no matter what source I am using from my HD DVR to my Toshiba HD A1 the D2 says that I am using 2 channel input for audio? I played my DVR Master and Commander HD Demo in 5.1 and the D2 is telling me it's on the 2 channel audio inpu for PLIIXt. Am I doing something wrong?


Edit: OK I am a dork. I am running HDMI audio through my Dish DVR and I am sure that it does not support multichannel audio. See how my D2 is spoiling me already?Back to the optical for my satellite.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Edit: OK I am a dork. I am running HDMI audio through my Dish DVR and I am sure that it does not support multichannel audio. See how my D2 is spoiling me already?Back to the optical for my satellite.



I'm getting MC audio thru HDMI with my Dish 622 DVR. 5.1 programs are few and far between on Dish's MP4 birds.


The two channel lock up issue has shown up here before. Make sure that HDMI repeater is set to off and 6/5.1 preference is set to NONE.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm getting MC audio thru HDMI with my Dish 622 DVR. 5.1 programs are few and far between on Dish's MP4 birds.
> 
> 
> The two channel lock up issue has shown up here before. Make sure that HDMI repeater is set to off and 6/5.1 preference is set to NONE.



Thanks Jerry. I have the Dish 942 but I am getting the 622 soon. HDMI repeater is off (not sure what that does anyhoo). the 6/5.1 preference is in the input/setup menu right? the one where you tell it to play Dolby PLIIx, or EX etc..?


----------



## wingnut4772

I set up the Dish 942 with optical and now it's in 5.1. I don't have the 2 channel issue with my Toshiba HD A1.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've confirmed that I can play audio via HDMI from my Pioneer Elite 59avi DVD player with my HDMI display turned off -- if and only if the D2's input for the 59avi is set to Repeater = NO.


Every time you turn the display on or off the 59avi will go through a new handshake, so the D2 is doing something that triggers re-establishing the HDMI connection to the 59avi in response to seeing the change of status of the display itself. But either way (display on or off), the connection gets established and the audio passes over the HDMI.


So far I've found no down side to leaving Repeater = NO for that input.


------------------------------------------------


As I mentioned before, one of the HDMI failure modes with the Comcast/Motorola HD/DVR -- which of course ONLY works with Repeater = NO -- is triggered by turning ON the display. I.e., things are correct and stable with the display off, but as soon as you turn the display on the Comcast box improperly reverts to its default output settings. Based on what's going on with the 59avi, apparently the D2 is causing a re-handshake with the Comcast box in response to seeing the display come on, even though Repeater is set to NO. The resulting failure itself is probably in the Comcast box of course.


--------------------------------------------------


I figured out another issue with the Comcast as well. If you change the HDMI's HDTV output resolutions between 720p and 1080i sometimes the Comcast box will put up the display saying the HDCP is corrupt and suggesting you use component cables.


To change the output resolution on the Comcast you need to power it off with the remote control -- which is just a "soft" power off, i.e., the box's programming is still running anyway -- and then bring up a special menu. Upon exiting that menu and powering the Comcast up normally it will attempt to re-establish the HDMI connection.


The trick is YOU CAN'T DO THIS TOO QUICKLY! Apparently what's going on is that the D2 and or the Comcast still remembers the prior connection for a bit -- a connection that was still live while you were looking at the Comcast's resolution changing special menu, and if you switch output resolutions on the Comcast the new handshake fails -- apparently because the Comcast thinks you've pulled a fast one and swapped devices on the other end of the cable. I.e., it thinks you are trying to defeat its copy protection.


In addition to seeing the HDCP corrupt message on the TV, another distinguishing factor here is that changing TV channels or switching the D2 between inputs will not "cure" this once that message comes up. You need to power off the Comcast for a short while, and possibly go back into its resolution setting display, to get it back to the point where it will connect.


However, if you wait a bit after changing the Comcast's output resolution and before powering it up again normally (30 seconds seems plenty, maybe less), it or the D2 has time to forget the previous connection and the new handshake works just fine every time. For some reason this seems to be more of a problem when setting 720p output resolution as opposed to 1080i. Again, this is likely due to flakey programming in the Comcast, plus the fact that the D2 is remembering the old connection for a bit.


I haven't tried this, but I suspect that there would NOT be a problem if you changed channels to an SDTV channel (with 480i or 480p SDTV output resolution override set in the Comcast) before changing the HDTV output resolution of the Comcast. That is, I think you'll only see this failure if the "remembered" connection was also a high-res connection.

--Bob


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Jerry. I have the Dish 942 but I am getting the 622 soon. HDMI repeater is off (not sure what that does anyhoo). the 6/5.1 preference is in the input/setup menu right? the one where you tell it to play Dolby PLIIx, or EX etc..?



Yup...set it to none.


----------



## mjavman

So I ordered my D2. Giddy, keeping my fingers crossed that all of the HDMI ports work. Need a port for D*, HTPC, and a soon to be orderd 480i (via hdmi) DVD, haven't decided.


NOW comes the big question which I consider the ultimate tweak: What display type and size! At furtheset I'll be 9.5 feet and closest 7 feet (I can move the couch if I want). Given the D2 can upconvert everything to 1080p, it seems that I should without question get a 1080p display, especially given that I may sit as close as 7 feet.


Everything I've read about screen size and seating distance, I'm safe at 60." Much smaller and 1080p wouldn't be worth it (and I would loose the theater emmersion effect, or am I wrong here?), much bigger and it can get too grainy. But that brings up the issue then of what 1080p screen? Must take 1080p via HDMI right, othweise the TV scaler takes over? I'm not sold on plasma vs DLP, etc, I just want the best image and have the budget and space for either. (though I'd have to wait for a 1080p plasma at 60")


Anyone have a personal thought or experience?


----------



## chazanova

mjavman I have a 67 that i sit 9 feet from and i think it looks great could have gone 71 if i had more room on wall


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjavman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Given the D2 can upconvert everything to 1080p, it seems that I should without question get a 1080p display



It would be foolish to spend all the $$$ on the D2 and not take advantage of it's strongest feature.


----------



## Monty Williams

My D2 came in today, just got back from picking it up.


*fingers crossed I got a good one*


I'll be connecting it to an HD-A1 HD DVD via HDMI, a 79AVi via HDMI, a Comcast HD STB via DVi>HDMI, and out to a Sony Ruby projector via HDMI. For sound, I'll be connecting via balanced XLR's to a Bryston 6BSST to 3 M&K S150 THX Ultra's, and via balanced XLR to a pair of 4BSST's to 4 M&K SS150 THX Ultra's, plus a Velodyne SMS-1 via balanced XLR, out to a pair of M&K MX350 THX Ultra subs.


Plus Xbox360 and DVR/HHD via component.


I was using a Pioneer Elite 84TXSi as a pre/pro. "This better be good!"


Nothing better than spending a Friday evening redoing all the cables, wires, and setup to your HT.


----------



## randman

FYI, the September/October issue of the Robb Report's Home Entertainment magazine has a review of the D2 by Brent Butterworth (formerly of Home Theater Magazine).

A quote:


"I feel cetain the D2 will earn a fantastic reputation as the first surround processor that totally eliminates the need for an external video scaler. Yet I fear many will overlook its other outstanding quality: sound. In my comparisons, the D2 sounds better than every other processor I have on hand - and, I feel safe saying, every other processor I have reviewed, with the possible exception of the Theta Casablanca II Extreme, which cost $15,000 when we reviewed it in 2003."


The only flaw that he pointed out: "complexity", given how many options can be adjusted.


----------



## wingnut4772

Aargh! I just hooked up balanced interconnects to my D2 and now I have a horrible ground loop. I have isolated it to the satellite box- kind of. When I remove the HDMI cable from the the Sat to the D2 it goes away 90% but I still have a hum. Do I have to return my balanced interconnects?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Monty Williams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My D2 came in today, just got back from picking it up.
> 
> 
> *fingers crossed I got a good one*
> 
> 
> I'll be connecting it to an HD-A1 HD DVD via HDMI, a 79AVi via HDMI, a Comcast HD STB via DVi>HDMI, and out to a Sony Ruby projector via HDMI. For sound, I'll be connecting via balanced XLR's to a Bryston 6BSST to 3 M&K S150 THX Ultra's, and via balanced XLR to a pair of 4BSST's to 4 M&K SS150 THX Ultra's, plus a Velodyne SMS-1 via balanced XLR, out to a pair of M&K MX350 THX Ultra subs.
> 
> 
> Plus Xbox360 and DVR/HHD via component.
> 
> 
> I was using a Pioneer Elite 84TXSi as a pre/pro. "This better be good!"
> 
> 
> Nothing better than spending a Friday evening redoing all the cables, wires, and setup to your HT.




Monty,


Best of luck.


If you are glutton for punishment you'll do comcast by DVI/HDMI (or read every Bob post). I happily use components based on wasted man weeks of effort fiddling with Comcast & other scalers.


You should be very happy with it.


Tim


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Aargh! I just hooked up balanced interconnects to my D2 and now I have a horrible ground loop. I have isolated it to the satellite box- kind of. When I remove the HDMI cable from the the Sat to the D2 it goes away 90% but I still have a hum. Do I have to return my balanced interconnects?



What are you using balanced ICs for? The ground loop is likely being generated by your sat box creating a "rogue" path to ground thru the cable that comes from the antenna switch that is independently grounded. If you go outside you'll see a ground wire from you Sat "dish" to a stake in the ground. That's may be the real culprit. You can test by temporarily disconnecting the wire from the stake.



HDMI "should" be isolated from that ground because the digital circuits are isolated from the analog withing the sat receiver. Analog component circuits are not. I need to look back a year or so on another thread, but I remember someone mentioning a device sold at Rat Shack that breaks that loop in the antenna line. I also remember sombody fixing that by bonding the antenna ground to their house wiring ground.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've reconfigured my console to give the D2 a double height space all to itself. It now has about 12 inches of air space above it -- all open to the rear -- isolated from other heat sources. I've removed the external fan.


So far it appears this gives enough natural, convective and radiative cooling that an external fan is not necessary. The surrounding air, walls, and top of that space are about the same temperature (once things reach steady state) as what I measured before in the smaller space WITH the largish (and too noisy) external fan.


I'm going to leave it this way for a while -- quite possibly permanently. Right now it appears to be working just fine, with no HDMI connection issues except for those that seem to be entirely the fault of the Comcast HD/DVR.


If that proves to be the case over the next week, then I'll finish up by switching to Component cabling from the Comcast. I agree with the good Dr.: Using HDMI from this benighted Comcast box is just asking for aggravation. But for now I'll leave it on HDMI as a way of checking whether the D2 is heat stressed.


I'll leave the HDMI cable attached -- so I can beat my head against this wall again when Anthem eventually releases new D2 firmware! (grin).


-----------------------------------------------------------------


Prior to this layout change, I did have another instance of the D2 spontaneously resetting its Video Source Adjustment settings (under the "7" key) back to factory default values. I've still got no idea what's causing this, although I continue to suspect it's some key combination on the D2's remote that I'm hitting by accident. It's been quite a while since the last time this happened.


Restoring my settings from Saved User Settings fixes this. It's only really a problem in that I need to check things are right under the "7" key before I SAVE settings, so that I don't accidentally wipe out my Saved copy.

--Bob


----------



## randman

The following company makes a number of useful items to get rid of ground loops: http://www.jensen-transformers.com/


----------



## Dennis Oblow

Try this for ground loop, works for me and only $10.00 http://www.smarthome.com/81285.html


----------



## T-smith

I recently bought an AVM-50 and after reading all the issues a lot of people have been having with it getting hot I have been paying attention to it and mine doesnt seem to be getting hot at all. I had it on for 3 hours last night and it barely felt warm


so far so good, dont have it tweeked all the way yet but I am getting there


----------



## abc999

I too have the AVM50. It does not get hot at all. We still dont have HD cable or Satellite here in the Philippines. But wilth all other sources, everything works


----------



## randman

Must be hot in the Philippines especially this time of the year. I assume your AVM50 is in an air conditioned room!


My Anthem D2 doesn't get hot either. A little warm, but not much, really. Granted, my home theater room is about 68 degrees Fahrenheit. My D2 is in a built-in rack, so it's closed on the back and on the sides. The front is open though, and I have about 6" of free space above the D2. I recently put together a new Salamander rack that is open in the front and back and has perforated metal sides for ventilation. I plan on moving the D2 there once I get some time. That will allow it to run even cooler (again, heat is not an issue for me, but at the time I bought the Salamander rack, I was reading about the heat that others were reporting, so I wound up designing the Salamander rack to ensure I have very adequate cooling).


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dennis Oblow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Try this for ground loop, works for me and only $10.00 http://www.smarthome.com/81285.html



At the risk of sounding goofy..where does this go exactly? My Sat HD DVR has about 5 inputs...?


----------



## Dennis Oblow

This is for ground loop hum caused by cable tv it goes in thecable line before the cable box


----------



## dipan

Hi guys,


I just received a D2 also. I guess I can be a part of this club now ...










Hopefully I'll be a happy owner.


I have purchased a new sony 1080p lcd but don't have it yet. I've got the D2 hooked up to a SA 8300HD cable box via component and the D2 hooked up to a Samsung 26" (yes ... I did say 26") HDTV via component. I seem to have some syncing issues. When I initially set it up for 1080i operation, it worked fine. Now I can only get 480i working intermittently. The cable box to the TV direct worked fine for me. Is there something I'm doing wrong? I've got the following settings in Video Output:


OSD format: NTSC

Preferred: HDMI

Resolution: 1920x1080i/60Hz

Color Space: Auto

Data Format: YPbPr

Letterbox: Black

Sync: Normal

Component 2 Out: Processed


Incidentally, in regards to the HDMI jack issue, my rather newer D2 has a sign taped over HDMI jacks that reads:

*WARNING*

BE CAREFUL WHEN INSERTING HDMI CABLES.

The connector should slide into the jack easily -- do not insert it on an angle and do not force it in. Each connector contains 19 delicate pins, and cables with damaged pins can damage the jack.
*Jacks damaged through misuse are not covered under warranty.*

If your HDMI cables have been connected so many times that they are about to wear out, we strongly recommend that you replace them to prevent damage to any HDMI jacks in your system


Clearly, all you guys damaging your jacks are haphazardly monkeying around with the unit and do not fully understand the delicate intricacies of HDMI cable insertion ...







Seriously, after reading this thread, I find it a bit concerning that they are trying to deny any blame for this and deny any financial responsibility for it. Needless to say I won't be inserting any HDMI cables until I really have to. They will also be brand new cables that are individually visually inspected to be in good shape. Really now, should I have to go through all that with a $6500 piece of gear? [/end rant] ...


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dipan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Incidentally, in regards to the HDMI jack issue, my rather newer D2 has a sign taped over HDMI jacks that reads:
> 
> *WARNING*
> 
> BE CAREFUL WHEN INSERTING HDMI CABLES.
> 
> The connector should slide into the jack easily -- do not insert it on an angle and do not force it in. Each connector contains 19 delicate pins, and cables with damaged pins can damage the jack.
> *Jacks damaged through misuse are not covered under warranty.*



I would have to look in my box, but a very similar sign was taped to the back of my D2 purchased last April.


Good luck with your new D2. And don't be afraid to connect hdmi cables to it. That is why you purchased it - isn't it?? Do your hdmi inputs have the new locking connector on them?


I have never had a problem inserting an hdmi cable into my D2.


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dipan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> *WARNING*
> 
> BE CAREFUL WHEN INSERTING HDMI CABLES.
> 
> The connector should slide into the jack easily -- do not insert it on an angle and do not force it in. Each connector contains 19 delicate pins, and cables with damaged pins can damage the jack.
> *Jacks damaged through misuse are not covered under warranty.*
> 
> If your HDMI cables have been connected so many times that they are about to wear out, we strongly recommend that you replace them to prevent damage to any HDMI jacks in your system
> 
> 
> Clearly, all you guys damaging your jacks are haphazardly monkeying around with the unit and do not fully understand the delicate intricacies of HDMI cable insertion ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, after reading this thread, I find it a bit concerning that they are trying to deny any blame for this and deny any financial responsibility for it. Needless to say I won't be inserting any HDMI cables until I really have to. They will also be brand new cables that are individually visually inspected to be in good shape. Really now, should I have to go through all that with a $6500 piece of gear? [/end rant] ...



Should read


"We used sub standard parts and if they break it is your fault".


Notice they do not put this disclaimer on the web site but leave it as a nice suprise when you open the box.


Never seen this on any other product with HDMI.


----------



## dipan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would have to look in my box, but a very similar sign was taped to the back of my D2 purchased last April.
> 
> 
> Good luck with your new D2. And don't be afraid to connect hdmi cables to it. That is why you purchased it - isn't it?? Do your hdmi inputs have the new locking connector on them?
> 
> 
> I have never had a problem inserting an hdmi cable into my D2.



I _have_ to be afraid of plugging in HDMI cables. I still plan on doing it, but only when I'm ready for final installation. My sockets do have three very tiny retaining pins on the bottom of the socket. There are either soldering points or two additional clips visible on the top right. I wouldn't think that they provide any locking, but probably just help to guide the connector properly.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have never had a problem inserting an hdmi cable into my D2.



I've never had an issue inserting them either. Now KEEPING them in is another issue! The HDMI sockets that Anthem uses are pathetic for a $6500 msrp device, and I understand they are being replaced soon in ongoing production. I believe that the substandard HDMI sockets have a lot to do with some of the switching issues some of us are experiencing. Anthem is in deep denial about all the problems associated with HDMI on the D2, so it doesn't surprise me that they deny any responsibility for anything.


My solution was to purchase a handfull of flexible HDMI pigtails that don't allow the main cables to put strain on the sockets. Additionally, every time I have to change a HDMI device I can unplug it's cord from the pigtail rather than the D2 itself, saving wear and tear on the overly fragile and tempermental D2.


----------



## wingnut4772

I have had a strange thing happen a couple of times on start up. The picture will have about a one inch wide green vertical band on the left side where I guess the picture is not centered. I have had to shut it down and start over again to correct it. Twice.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dipan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I've got the D2 hooked up to a SA 8300HD cable box via component and the D2 hooked up to a Samsung 26" (yes ... I did say 26") HDTV via component. I seem to have some syncing issues.



My 8300HD works fine for me. Make sure you set repeater=off (or was it false?) in the source setting for the DVR.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dipan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've got the D2 hooked up to a SA 8300HD cable box via component and the D2 hooked up to a Samsung 26" (yes ... I did say 26") HDTV via component. I seem to have some syncing issues. When I initially set it up for 1080i operation, it worked fine. Now I can only get 480i working intermittently. The cable box to the TV direct worked fine for me. Is there something I'm doing wrong? I've got the following settings in Video Output:
> 
> 
> OSD format: NTSC
> *Preferred: HDMI*
> 
> Resolution: 1920x1080i/60Hz
> 
> Color Space: Auto
> 
> Data Format: YPbPr
> 
> Letterbox: Black
> 
> Sync: Normal
> 
> Component 2 Out: Processed



Is there a reason you have Preferred set to HDMI instead of component?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My 8300HD works fine for me. Make sure you set repeater=off (or was it false?) in the source setting for the DVR.



If he is using component the repeater setting should not come into play.



I was kind of insulted by the HDMI warning sticker too. Although by most of the reports here they aren't actually enforcing that warning.


----------



## dipan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a reason you have Preferred set to HDMI instead of component?
> 
> 
> If he is using component the repeater setting should not come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> I was kind of insulted by the HDMI warning sticker too. Although by most of the reports here they aren't actually enforcing that warning.



Sorry, I was wrong. It is on component. When it was initially installed it was on HDMI and the picture was grainy and off color, but nowhere near the distortion I'm having now. Maybe it's just the TV's fault. I'll have to wait until the 1080p display arrives to be sure. It is an old TV that I have. And maybe that one time I dropped it from 3 ft caused some damage a couple months ago.







Built like a tank and weighs as much. It still works otherwise.


----------



## THX Mode

Apologize if this was covered somewhere before;


I just bought the Toshiba HDX and was confused by the various audio setup options.


I've got it connected via HDMI - but then was reading through the manual of what to have connected - should it be the analog 6 connection - for DD+? Or should I have the optical connected for SD DVD's?


What should I set the input for on the Anthem side - should it be HDMI digital? Analog?


On the Toshiba side - what should be set -- HDMI? or PCM?


Arr!... help! (but it does have a nice picture tho')


----------



## obie_fl

You don't need optical or analog, HDMI will do it all and it is the preferred method if you want to maximize the potential of the D2. Can you be more specific on which of the Toshiba and D2 settings you are referring to? I'll check my setup if you can give me the specific settings.


----------



## obie_fl

Ok here is one for you Pioneer 59/79AVi guys. Are you getting multichannel off of DVD-A's through the HDMI port? When I play the multi-channel track of a DVD-A the anthem is detecting it as two channel. I know I'm playing the right tracks because the M/C indicator is lit on the player and switching to analog 5.1 has the other channels. Solution???


(Edit)Hmm seems goenkar had a similar problem with his Oppo after upgrading to 1.06. Anyone have M/C DVD-A working over HDMI?


----------



## lchurch

I have a DirecTV HR10-250 connected to my D2 via HDMI and it seems to work OK. My TV is a 720p DLP. I can't find anyway to set the HR10-250 to send SDTV at 480i and HDTV at 720p _automatically_. Switching from an HD program to a SD program (and using the D2s scaler) involves a bunch of button presses to get the D2 and the HR10-250 set up correctly.


Anybody know the proper settings?


larry


----------



## obie_fl

Larry why do you have to change anything on the D2 side? Ideally it would be a one button press to change the res on the HR10. I take it it is much more involved. On my STB (cable) I have to enable all the resolutions to get them to pass thru other STBs I've seen have a pass-thru setting I guess the HR10 doesn't have this and automatically scales the SDTV channels.


----------



## Hunter67

I'm looking to upgrade my AVM30 to a AVM50, anyone heard when Anthem is going to start upgrading these?


----------



## obie_fl

By most accounts the upgrades are still a ways down the road, you would really have to ask Anthem. Personally I think they are waiting on us D2 and AVM-50 owners to finish beta testing.


----------



## Hunter67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> By most accounts the upgrades are still a ways down the road, you would really have to ask Anthem. Personally I think they are waiting on us D2 and AVM-50 owners to finish beta testing.



Am I better off selling my 30 and buying a 50?


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hunter67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Am I better off selling my 30 and buying a 50?



You may be correct on this

if you can get a good $ for it I will do that.

New warranty may be worth it


----------



## BLS

Lchurch,


How old is your HR10-250? I had mine for a couple years before I had any HDMI equipment to use and I don't get anything out of the HDMI port.


The component video out does shut off when I plug an HDMI cable into it, but I get nothing.


Hopefully I'll be one of the D2 club here in a few months!


----------



## lchurch

My HR10-250 is about a year old. And yes, the HDMI output disables the component output.


I can set the output resolution to whatever I want (480i, 720p). The HR10-250 will then scale it's output to that resolution. I can also program the remote to switch the out put resolution. As far as I can tell, there is no way to have the HR10-250 set it's output resolution to 480i for SD and 720p for HD.


My guess is that the scaler in my D2 would probably do a better job of scaling 480i to 720p (the resolution of my TV).



larry


----------



## uzun

Does the video scalar in the D2 output 1080p24sf? I have a modded qualia that can accept 1080p/60 but for film sourced material 1080p24sf is smoother. I'd like to be able to switch back and forth from 1080p/60 to 1080p24sf. I dont think the Qualia will accept 1080p/24 but I cant be certain, I cant get anythign to send that. It wont accept 1080p/48 thats for sure. It will accept 1080p24sf, 1080p/50 and 1080p/60.


----------



## Nathan_R

Yes, it outputs 1080p24.


----------



## uzun

I don't think my projector can accept 1080p/24 but it might. I think it only accepts 1080p24sf, 1080p/60 and 1080p/50.


Does anyone know if the D2 can output 1080p24sf?


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lchurch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a DirecTV HR10-250 connected to my D2 via HDMI and it seems to work OK. My TV is a 720p DLP. I can't find anyway to set the HR10-250 to send SDTV at 480i and HDTV at 720p _automatically_. Switching from an HD program to a SD program (and using the D2s scaler) involves a bunch of button presses to get the D2 and the HR10-250 set up correctly.
> 
> 
> Anybody know the proper settings?
> 
> 
> larry



It is actually simpler than you think.

1. go into messages and setup.

2. go into video.

3. go to Output Format-Up Arrow Setup. You can select 480i, 480P, 720P & 1080i - each of which can be toggled to by the up button on the HD-Tivo remote. You can set one or two or all of the resolutions for output purposes and just hit the up button to go through them.


Leave the D2 alone.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok here is one for you Pioneer 59/79AVi guys. Are you getting multichannel off of DVD-A's through the HDMI port? When I play the multi-channel track of a DVD-A the anthem is detecting it as two channel. I know I'm playing the right tracks because the M/C indicator is lit on the player and switching to analog 5.1 has the other channels. Solution???



Set the player to 1080i output.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Set the player to 1080i output.



Agree only works at higher resolution

I have my pio 79AVi running at 480I for movies

and Oppo 970HD at 1080i for SACD and DVD-A

Pio will not output SACD over HDMI


----------



## obie_fl

Thanks I switched to 1080i after reading about the Oppo problems and sure enough it worked. Ya gotts ta wonder







why the video resolution is tied to the audio output. So is this a Pioneer/Oppo problem or D2 issue?


Came across another HDMI audio idiosyncrasy tonight. I had to switch the Toshiba HD DVD HDMI Audio from Auto to down converted PCM to get the commentary and gag feature to work on Kiss Kiss Bang Bang, anyone else seen this? I don't believe I've watched any of the extras on HD DVD before tonight, so not sure if it is just this title. KKBB was a surprisingly good flick too.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Personally I think they are waiting on us D2 and AVM-50 owners to finish beta testing.



You noticed that too!


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So is this a Pioneer/Oppo problem or D2 issue?



If memory serves, I believe it is a player issue... Oppo was working on a fix.. we'll see what Pio does


----------



## obie_fl

It seems strange that both players exhibit the same problem. Makes me wonder if it is in the hardware implementation and not easily fixable by firmware. I'd be shocked if Pioneer fixed it, unless it is a silent upgrade.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So is this a Pioneer/Oppo problem or D2 issue?



The answer is on the Oppo's website. Like always, the problem is the HDMI specification.


"If you use HDMI to connect audio to an HDMI A/V receiver or audio processor, it is recommended that you choose 720p or 1080i HDMI output resolution when playing high resolution audio content (DVD-Audio and SACD). *According to the HDMI specification, the bandwidth available for digital audio is proportional to the total bandwidth used by digital video. At 480i/480p/576i/576p resolution, the HDMI specification can only support 2 channels of audio with high sample rate (up to 192kHz), or 8 channels of audio with standard sample rate (up to 48kHz).* Depending on the capability of your A/V receiver or audio processor, if you play high resolution audio content at 480i/480p/576i/576p resolution, you may encounter problems of incomplete audio channels or no audio/video output at all. *Choosing a high HDMI output resolution such as 720p or 1080i allows enough bandwidth for all high sample rate audio channels*"


----------



## obie_fl

Thanks Lev... I was going to put in my original post on the matter that it could actually be the HDMI spec itself but wasn't sure, thanks for confirming.


Anyone have any experience with the HD DVD commentary audio issue I posted earlier?


----------



## wingnut4772

I have decided just to keep my RCAs instead of the XLRs. The RCAs are dead quiet so I do not feel like dealing with whatever is causing the ground loop with the XLRs. The run is only 1 meter anyway.


Here is a photo of my 'green line' issue.I was wondering if anyone else has observed this? It is intermittent and is resolved by turning the D2 off and on.


I would like to add also that Nick at Anthem has been very helpful and responsive to all my emails and questions and I feel pretty comfortable with Anthem CS so far.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The answer is on the Oppo's website. Like always, the problem is the HDMI specification.
> 
> 
> "If you use HDMI to connect audio to an HDMI A/V receiver or audio processor, it is recommended that you choose 720p or 1080i HDMI output resolution when playing high resolution audio content (DVD-Audio and SACD). *According to the HDMI specification, the bandwidth available for digital audio is proportional to the total bandwidth used by digital video. At 480i/480p/576i/576p resolution, the HDMI specification can only support 2 channels of audio with high sample rate (up to 192kHz), or 8 channels of audio with standard sample rate (up to 48kHz).* Depending on the capability of your A/V receiver or audio processor, if you play high resolution audio content at 480i/480p/576i/576p resolution, you may encounter problems of incomplete audio channels or no audio/video output at all. *Choosing a high HDMI output resolution such as 720p or 1080i allows enough bandwidth for all high sample rate audio channels*"



I still cannot get Multichannel working over HDMI between these two. Oppo has confirmed that it shouldnt work so i still dont understand how some of you are getting it to work at all!


----------



## Monty Williams

I just got the Anthem Statement D2 last Friday and finally felt that I have used it enough to make some initial comments/first impressions.


I've got the D2 hooked up to 3 Bryston amps via balanced XLR - 6BSST and a pair of 4BSST's. Speakers are M&K S150 (L/C/R) and SS150 (SR/SL/SBR/SBL). Subs are a pair of M&K MX350's controlled by a Velodyne SMS-1. Sources are HD-A1 HD DVD, 79AVi, and Comcast HD STB all connected via HDMI, plus an XBOX360 via component. Display is a Sony Ruby connected via HDMI projecting onto a Stewart 110" Grayhawk RS.


Compared to the Pioneer Elite 84TXSi receiver I was using as a pre/pro with the above listed equipment I don't know if it's $5k better, but I do think the AQ is a little better, at least for SACD/DVD-A. I wouldn't say there's a mindblowing difference, but it does seem a little clearer/cleaner, but the Pioneer was nice too. For movies, I can't really say that there's much difference with HD DVD or DVD. It's hard to do a back to back comparison, and I haven't even tried. As we all know, our auditory memory is poor, but that's what I'm going by. I do feel confident in saying that if you hear or notice something in the music or soundtrack that you never noticed before, then there is an improvement as long as it's a positive and not something like distortion, etc. I was blown away recently by the AQ on the 'We Were Soldiers' HD DVD, I think I'm going to rewatch that tonight. So far I have only watched 'Ray', "Animal House', and 'Aeon Flux' HD DVD's since adding the Anthem D2.


Now as far as PQ, the Gennum processor makes a noticeable difference with SD and a bit less with HDTV (but still noticeable). With HD DVD, I had to get within a couple of feet of the screen (110" w/ Sony Ruby) to see the improvement - increased clarity and less noise.


Overall I'm happy with it. It is a complex piece of equipment, you can basically tweak and adjust everything. As I said, I don't know if it's $5k better, as with everything else in this hobby, the law of diminishing returns plays a factor. With that said, now that I've crossed over to the dark side of going fully seperate I won't be going back to using a receiver for my HT.


I am looking foward to the addition of automated room correction/eq though, which I've been told is an upgrade that is in the works and will be available via firmware (but what about the necessary microphone?)


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Monty Williams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am looking foward to the addition of automated room correction/eq though, which I've been told is an upgrade that is in the works and will be available via firmware (but what about the necessary microphone?)



Welcome to the club Monty. Did you hear the above directly from Anthem? I've wondered how they would accommodate the mic also.


----------



## Monty Williams




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Welcome to the club Monty. Did you hear the above directly from Anthem? I've wondered how they would accommodate the mic also.



Thanks...I thought I heard it from Anthem. I exchanged several emails with Nick at Anthem when I still sitting on the fence. I thought he mentioned it in one of his emails but just reviewed them and couldn't find any mention of it. I must have read it here and "bunched it up" with what I heard from Anthem directly. Sorry if my previous post was misleading and incorrect. But I'm pretty sure I didn't dream it







!


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It seems strange that both players exhibit the same problem. Makes me wonder if it is in the hardware implementation and not easily fixable by firmware. I'd be shocked if Pioneer fixed it, unless it is a silent upgrade.



From what I got it from Pio Canada they don't have a clue, and they told me that if I wanna HDMI 1.2 I should of waited

That's after talking to 6 people.

So I don't think PIO will do anything

Also HDMI limits high resolution Audio for Low resolution Video, and no one can answer me Y


----------



## obie_fl

Well...If you believe the Oppo statement above it *is* part of the hardware implementation, that being HDMI. Unless the HDMI spec gets changed it looks like this issue is not going away.


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I still cannot get Multichannel working over HDMI between these two. Oppo has confirmed that it shouldnt work so i still dont understand how some of you are getting it to work at all!



Expletive,


This is a mystery to me also. I had posed this question after v1.06 when MC stopped working for me and never received a yay/nay as to any one else experiencing the problem.


Anthem confirmed the issue saying Oppo has to fix things at their end. I had reported an issue with v1.04 where if Oppo was turned off I would get a high pitched sound from my speakers. Anthem fixed the problem in v1.06 but MC was broken. Nick told me that OPPO has to identify the channels or something to that effect (email is at work).


Some posts here seem to indicate that MC works with D2/AVM-50.


Question is does multi-channel work with OPPO and v1.06 ??


----------



## obie_fl

Just to be clear I have the Pioneer 79AVi and the DVD-A does work with multi-channel as long as I have 1080i selected. The Pioneer doesn't support SACD over HDMI. My question for you Oppo guys is the problem only with SACD or DVD-A also?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks with the Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD player: That unit -- one of the first to ship with HDMI -- has only HDMI V1.0 support. HDMI V1.0 is not licensed by the exotic audio format owners for EITHER DVD-Audio OR SACD high-res digital audio. If you try to use HDMI for these you will either get no audio or down-rezed audio. Use 6 channel analog connections instead. Multi-channel audio over HDMI works just fine from this player when playing regular DVD movies.


Keep in mind that you can, essentially, turn off time alignment and bass steering inside the player for its multi-channel analog outputs and set the D2 to digitize and process the 6 channel analog signal coming in. Set the 59avi to assume Large speakers all around, and all at the same distance, plus a subwoofer (to receive any LFE channel so that is not steered to the front main speakers). Set your actual speaker configuration in the D2 and tell the 6-channel input of the D2 to DSP process the incoming signal instead of passing it through "direct" with no processing.

--Bob


----------



## uzun

I asked about Anthem room correction, since that's an important feature for me, and they said they are indeed working on it but have no date for when it will be available. From what they told me it sounds like it will be a great solution, more than just distance and channel levels for sure.


Does anyone know if the Anthem D2 video processor can be set to do NO video processing, just send out the SAME HDMI video signal it got in? Or send out the SAME Component video signal it gets in, basically put it in a switcher mode to bypass ANY and ALL video processing, but still pass the video data through?


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just to be clear I have the Pioneer 79AVi and the DVD-A does work with multi-channel as long as I have 1080i selected. The Pioneer doesn't support SACD over HDMI. My question for you Oppo guys is the problem only with SACD or DVD-A also?



Hey Tom I have both

79AVi will transport multichannel DVD-A at 480i up 48/24. For 96/24 you will have to switch to 1080i if not you will only get 2 channel from PIO, and no Go for SACD.

OPPO it works the same way at 480i

but at 1080i you will receive all SACD and DVD-A formats

Plus OPPO will play all recordable DVD's an CD's where pio will not


----------



## obie_fl

Elmac so you are saying you have the Oppo working unlike Expletive and Goenkar?


----------



## obie_fl

uzun - AFAIK there is no way to pass thru the video unprocessed, I asked about that earlier in the thread before I had mine. That is a feature I'd like to see too.


----------



## uzun

That is kind of bad for me, the video processor in the D2 won't output 1080/24PsF and it won't allow me to bypass it to get 1080/24PsF from an external processor in a clean fashion.


They should add a bypass/pass through mode for HDMI video the way they do for various aspects of audio, and/or add support for 1080p24sf output.


----------



## obie_fl

Curious why you would want to pass the 1080p24sf straight through? Wouldn't you want it to output 1080P60? I don't fully understand digital displays as I'm still a CRT guy. For CRT I'd like to see a 1080P48 or 1080P72. Do we know if the D2 can accept 1080P24?


----------



## uzun

I would want the D2 to pass all video data straight through not just 1080p24sf, and let a video processor capable of outputting 1080p24sf handle all the video processing chores. You need to send HDMI to the prepro for sound, but not necessarily for video. I would not want to process the video twice using two different processors, you would get the worst of each in that case.


In this case the projector accepts 1080p/50, 1080p/60 and 1080p24sf. The refresh rate on the screen is 50hz with 1080p/50, 60 hz with 1080p/60 and 48hz with 1080p24sf. For film based material a 48hz on screen update rate means a smoother picture with none of the judder that occurs when you display film sourced material at 60hz.


So for video sourced material you want to use 1080p/60 for film sourced material 1080p24sf. If the D2 would output 1080p24sf it wouldnt be a problem, if you wanted to use the internal video processor. Since it won't output 1080p24sf you would wind up using 1080p/60 for everything, meaning some 3:2 judder on film sourced material you wouldnt get if you fed the projector a 1080p24sf signal.


----------



## obie_fl

I understand where you are coming from with the refresh rates and video vs film, in fact that is why I mentioned some of those same rates above. I guess I'm just surprised you would get a D2 and not want to use the Gennum but I understand your motivation. Gotta ask though, wouldn't you be better served by an audio only HDMI processor? Oh wait there aren't a whole lot of those out yet.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I understand where you are coming from with the refresh rates and video vs film, in fact that is why I mentioned some of those same rates above. I guess I'm just surprised you would get a D2 and not want to use the Gennum but I understand your motivation. Gotta ask though, wouldn't you be better served by an audio only HDMI processor? Oh wait there aren't a whole lot of those out yet.




I'm getting flashbacks. Didn't we go through this routine before.


I thought the Halcro (similar class) did have bypass & there are many audio only and switcher combos or use the Anthem and a separate switcher. I use two HDMI switchers in my setup (one to switch output to include unprocessed PC inputs, one because 4 ins is not enough so I have 4to1 into one of the Anthem HDMI ports). Works great.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Elmac so you are saying you have the Oppo working unlike Expletive and Goenkar?



Yep,

Guys did you follow the instructions, did you upgrade software:
oppo 

maybe all you have to do is to switch to PCM in audio output and it will work.


----------



## JohnRB




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Monty Williams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking foward to the addition of automated room correction/eq though, which I've been told is an upgrade that is in the works and will be available via firmware (but what about the necessary microphone?)



A microphone will be included in the Room EQ software.


John


----------



## Monty Williams

Where/what does it plug into?


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep,
> 
> Guys did you follow the instructions, did you upgrade software:
> oppo
> 
> maybe all you have to do is to switch to PCM in audio output and it will work.



Elmac,


I have the latest Oppo firmware and Anthem at v1.06


Do you have D2 or AVM-50 ?


What version of Anthem software are you running ?


When you press the status button on the Anthem remote 3 times (I think) does it report 6 incoming channels at 88.1 Khz?


Thanks


----------



## uzun

Anthem said they do not provide HDMI pass through on the D2 and don't plan to add it (would not be possible he suggested), and they don't support 1080p24sf output and can't add it. Oh well, maybe the AVM40 will get room correction, looks like you are forced into using the video processor on the D2 if you want it to process HDMI audio.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uzun* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anthem said they do not provide HDMI pass through on the D2 and don't plan to add it (would not be possible he suggested), and they don't support 1080p24sf output and can't add it. Oh well, maybe the AVM40 will get room correction, looks like you are forced into using the video processor on the D2 if you want it to process HDMI audio.



I believe they are planning on adding 720p/72 and 1080p/48, with the inverse telecine, isnt that adequate?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For those having problems with S-video from Velodyne subwoofer products not being converted to HDMI by the D2, I just got a PM from the Velodyne tech guy participating in the Velodyne thread in the subwoofer forum. He said there's no answer yet and he does not know when they will get to it, although it will be addressed eventually.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

I am exchanging my D2 due to the brightness shifting, green line problem. I made it clear to my dealer that I will only accept a replacement with a later serial number because of what I have read here. For those that have replaced theirs and noticed that the replacements were running cooler...have you determined why that is and what are your serial numbers?TIA


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Elmac,
> 
> 
> I have the latest Oppo firmware and Anthem at v1.06
> 
> 
> Do you have D2 or AVM-50 ?
> 
> 
> What version of Anthem software are you running ?
> 
> 
> When you press the status button on the Anthem remote 3 times (I think) does it report 6 incoming channels at 88.1 Khz?
> 
> 
> Thanks



D2 with v1.06

will check the rest tonight


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnRB* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A microphone will be included in the Room EQ software.
> 
> 
> John



John curious to your source on this and like Monty says where would you plug it in?


----------



## JohnRB




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> John curious to your source on this and like Monty says where would you plug it in?



Since every type of microphone will have a different frequency response, a room EQ must take that into account, otherwise the calibration would change based on what mic was used. A proper EQ requires that the designer be aware of the response of the microphone so they can take it into account. Allowing the customer to use any old mic from radio shack present a nearly impossible programming challenge.


John


----------



## obie_fl

John I understand what you are saying but that is not why I asked. I was looking for a confirmation from Anthem about this. The question also remains where would you plug it in on the D2. My previous Outlaw Pre/Pro came with a Mic and had an input jack on the front panel for it.


----------



## hifiaudio2

Am I reading correctly that selecting 1080i on the Oppo is required to get full hi-rez multichannel out of the HDMI cable? How would selecting 1080i leave more bandwidth for the audio than selecting 480i would?


----------



## uzun

Neither 1080/48p nor 720/72p are in any way equivalent to 1080/24PsF, and they would not serve the same purpose, so they would not be adequate. The projector in question accepts 1080/60p, 1080/50p and 1080/24psF. 720/72p would not work as it would be downrezzing everything, and the projector won't accept 1080/48p. 1080/60p is only sufficent for VIDEO sourced material FILM based material looks better using a 1080/24PsF signal.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifiaudio2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Am I reading correctly that selecting 1080i on the Oppo is required to get full hi-rez multichannel out of the HDMI cable? How would selecting 1080i leave more bandwidth for the audio than selecting 480i would?



I believe it is a matter of BW allocation not total BW.


----------



## obie_fl

uzun - As I said I'm fuzzy on digital displays and 1080/24PsF so I'm trying to learn here if you don't mind trying to educate me a little. I always thought digital displays had one native rate but you are saying you have 60hz, 50hz, and 48hz "native" correct?


I'm fortunate in that I can accept 48hz or 72hz thanks to good ole analog. Actually I'm sure my PJ can accept analog at those rates but I'm not sure my DVI interface can output those rates at 1080. Time to do some experimenting I guess.


----------



## uzun

All fixed pixel digital displays have a native resolution, such as 1080p (1920x1080). Many have one a single refresh rate, but some have multiple refresh rates at their native resolution and choose the display refresh rate based on the incoming signal.


In the case of the Qualia 004, the native resolution is 1920x1080, but the refresh rate is 60hz with 60hz input, 50hz with 50hz input, and 48hz with 1080/24PsF input.


So in a sense 1080/50P, 1080/60P and 1080/24PsF are all "native", they are the exact same resolution but result in a different on-screen refresh rate which can make a difference in the overall video quality for film based material.


Basically NTSC video looks best at 60hz, at 48hz its a mess. Film looks decent at 60hz but somewhat better at 48hz. The only way to get 48hz with this projector is to send it a 1080/24PsF signal. Things would be a LOT easier on me if it could accept a 1080/48P signal as well.


----------



## obie_fl

uzum - Gotcha, good summation thanks. What are you using for a 24PsF source?


I'm hoping HD DVD can output 24PsF at some point I'd like to see what it looks like at 48hz or 72hz on a analog PJ. 1080 is pushing my 8" CRT so it would take some serious tweeking. I use to run film at 960P48 and it looked pretty good.


----------



## uzun

The lumagen video processor can output 1080/24PsF. There aren't any source devices that output 1080/24PsF or even 1080/24P or 1080/48P that I know of. You need to have a video processor construct a smooth 1080/24 or 1080/48 stream from the data. Since all the information is there it's fairly easy. 1080i/60 has all the information needed to reconstruct the original 24hz data stream perfectly.


The only things that throw it are bad digital edits etc, but those clear up quickly and are less and less common in transfers.


----------



## obie_fl

For some reason I thought 24PsF was only done at the mastering stage. So Lumagen offers that output to avoid any 3:2 pulldown for those displays? Correct me if I'm wrong but both both HD DVD and Blu-Ray are 24PsF and not 24P on disc correct?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uzun* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you set the D2 to pass 1080p24sf to the Qualia 004, you would get a mess with all video sourced material which is 60hz. You cannot convert 60hz video sourced material to 24hz cleanly, you have to drop frames and the result is a stuttering mess.
> 
> 
> So for video sourced 480i, 480p, or 720p material you have to use a 60hz output mode. For the Qualia 004 without the 1080p/60 mod that means 720p/60. For 1080i/60 video sourced material you would want to output 1080i/60.
> 
> 
> For all film sourced material, at any input resolution, you would output 1080p24sf.
> 
> 
> You cannot output everything at 1080p24sf because that would result in massive stuttering for all NON-FILM sourced programs, such as sports, regular tv shows etc.
> 
> 
> Even if you had the 1080p/60 capability, you would want to output film based material at 1080p/24 and video sourced material at 1080p/60, although you could get by with simply outputting 1080p/60 all the time for simplicity sake and not lose much.




I know there was a reason I was having deja vu, uzun, it was you who went through this whole routine decrying the lack of passthrough less than a month ago, and like a month ago when Anthem said they couldn't do it because of hard ware constraints, they still can't this month.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are asserting that the Qualia has multiple native rates? or as is more likely it is a standard SXRD p60, it just doesn't take it in p60 (like a wide range of displays that don't). There is not a film projector built into the unit (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) so 24sf is being converted somewhere (ie the scaler inside the 004). If you believe that your projector needs to be driven by multiple non-native rate standards to achieve best picture quality results, particularly if the native rate is not allowed to be input externally from the projector, then D2 is probably not for you and an HDQ or some other interim fix until p60 is a better choice.



Just because I repeat myself too....


----------



## uzun

The qualia 004 does have multiple native refresh rates (on-screen), it does not display all signals using a fixed 60hz refresh rate on-screen, Sony engineering did authoritatively confirm this for me as I was researching the 1080/60p upgrade option. I didnt mention a desire for the D2 to do a pass-through until recently. A month ago when I spoke of the D2 PASSING a 1080/24PsF signal I was referring to it sending one from its video processor, not passing one through from an external source, there are no 1080/24psf source devices I know of. I must have missed the month old post where Anthem declared they could not do 1080/24Psf due to hardware constraints prior to the recent discussion and my emails questioning them about it, in fact I can't find such a post now although you claim there is one.


If you feel the need to repeat yourself go ahead, it won't make your assertions regarding a fixed 60hz refresh rate on the 004 any more accurate. The Qualia 004 displays 1080p/50hz input (indeed all 50hz input) as 50hz on screen. It displays 1080/60hz or other 60hz input as 60hz on screen, and 1080/24PsF as 48 HZ on screen. All THREE can be considered native, since the resolution is fixed at 1920x1080 but the displays onscreen refresh rate is NOT fixed to a single value. The improvement using 1080/24PsF is very apparent on screen when you watch scrolling credits or slow pans on film based material, and Sony Engineering has confirmed the 48hz on screen refresh rate issue for me multiple times (elevating the question higher and higher up the chain until someone could answer authoritatively).


Actually the new Marantz VP-11S1 digital projector also displays 48hz signals at 48hz onscreen, whether the signal is 1080/24PsF or 1080/48P (yes 1080/24PsF is a 48hz signal). It also displays the 50hz input signals at 50hz, and the 60hz signals at 60hz. So the Qualia 004 is not alone in displaying input signals at their native rates. Unfortunately the Qualia 004, unlike the Marantz, won't accept a 1080/48P signal making things a little more difficult for the user (me in this case).


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those having problems with S-video from Velodyne subwoofer products not being converted to HDMI by the D2, I just got a PM from the Velodyne tech guy participating in the Velodyne thread in the subwoofer forum. He said there's no answer yet and he does not know when they will get to it, although it will be addressed eventually.
> 
> --Bob



Is this a Velodyne issue or a D2 issue?

I'd guess a D2 issue since this configuration works fine between my SMS-1 and Pioneer Elite 84 receiver.... S-Video in, HDMI out.


dc


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uzun* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you feel the need to repeat yourself go ahead, it won't make your assertions regarding a fixed 60hz refresh rate on the 004 any more accurate.



The repetition is NOTHING has changed regarding passthrough since last month. It was established this key feature YOU need is not part of the D2 NOR will it be until the D3 IF ever.


Could you get over it and find a processor that does meet your needs or are you going to come back in another month and ask if the D2 has passthrough yet? Please either get the Qualia upgrade or find another processor which meets your needs.


I guess I don't understand why you are stating the same need continuously vs upgrading the Qualia or finding an appropriate solution. ????????????????????


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dreamcatcher,

What HDMI resolution are you outputting when the Velodyne works S-video to HDMI in your Pioneer receiver?


The theory is that the Velodyne is only putting out half the fields in it's 480i signal and thus the D2 is having fits trying to de-interlace that. Is the Pioneer de-interlacing the Velodyne's S-video signal?

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

I have a silly question. Is there a way to change the video setting on the D2 fro the HD A1 for HD and SD DVDs or do I just leave the D2 at 10801/60? Also my Satellite box is HD but I also get SD programs. What is best to set the D2 on for that? Thanks


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> dreamcatcher,
> 
> What HDMI resolution are you outputting when the Velodyne works S-video to HDMI in your Pioneer receiver?
> 
> 
> The theory is that the Velodyne is only putting out half the fields in it's 480i signal and thus the D2 is having fits trying to de-interlace that. Is the Pioneer de-interlacing the Velodyne's S-video signal?
> 
> --Bob



Someone in another thread also reported that their Yamaha receiver couldn't convert the SMS-1's S-Video to HDMI out. Sounds like the same problem the D2 has with the SMS-1. So, I'm actually curious as well what the Pioneer is doing. Maybe it's just passing the signal through? Anyway, note that the S-Video out of the D2 displays the SMS-1 signal, so it's only a matter of switching your display to use S-Video in when tweaking the sub. The D2's OSD also works with S-Video, for added convenience.


----------



## obie_fl

Wingnut - Not sure I understand your question. If you mean setting the output resolution of the D2 you would set it to your display's native rate and let it be. What display are you using?


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wingnut - Not sure I understand your question. If you mean setting the output resolution of the D2 you would set it to your display's native rate and let it be. What display are you using?




That's what I thought but I was wondering if I was missing something. I have a Samsung HLS6187 which is supposed to accept 1080p but when I switch the D2 to that I get no picture so I have it set at 1080i/60. What is the best setting to put the HD A1 on ?


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> dreamcatcher,
> 
> What HDMI resolution are you outputting when the Velodyne works S-video to HDMI in your Pioneer receiver?
> 
> 
> The theory is that the Velodyne is only putting out half the fields in it's 480i signal and thus the D2 is having fits trying to de-interlace that. Is the Pioneer de-interlacing the Velodyne's S-video signal?
> 
> --Bob



The 84 is set to video conversion "on", resolution "pure".

The blue velodyne setup screen just pops right up when I select the SMS-1 input on the 84.


dc


----------



## obie_fl

Wingnut - The best setting is the one you can't get to work.







Not being able to send it 1080P negates most of the advantages of the D2 Gennum. Sending any other resolution will cause the Samsung to also process the video. Have you contacted Anthem or Samsung about this?


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's what I thought but I was wondering if I was missing something. I have a Samsung HLS6187 which is supposed to accept 1080p but when I switch the D2 to that I get no picture so I have it set at 1080i/60. What is the best setting to put the HD A1 on ?



I think the Samsung only takes 1080i input which it scales to 1080p


Nowhere in the manual does it say it can take a 1080p input. from what I have read.


----------



## uzun

rudolpht:I HAVE the qualia upgrade, it DOES accept 1080/60p and 1080/50p, that's the UPGRADE (for some reason you aren't clear on the details but insist on commenting). It doesn't accept 1080/24P or 1080/48P that's the problem (there is no way to change this). I was hoping the Anthem D2 would provide 1080/24PsF and despite what you say no one ever stated it could NOT due to hardware limitations until RECENTLY.


I need a scalar that can output 1080/60P and 1080/24PsF, it's been made clear RECENTLY that the D2 cannot do this, and will not be made to provide a pass through function so that an external scalar could do this. Even if the D2 couldn't handle the video processing for my needs I was tempted to purchase it as an audio prepro, that's when the issue of pass through came up.


----------



## obie_fl

uzun - Have you by chance checked out the HDMI Lexicon that came out recently? How about the AVM-40 if Anthem ever gets it released? Neither of these has video processing but do process audio. I'm prone to forget and repeat things myself, seems my brain gets erased every night when I fall asleep. Anyway I learned quite a few things reading your deliberations about the D2.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wingnut - The best setting is the one you can't get to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not being able to send it 1080P negates most of the advantages of the D2 Gennum. Sending any other resolution will cause the Samsung to also process the video. Have you contacted Anthem or Samsung about this?



OK It seems to just be the Sat. setting that is not accepting the 1080p. I set the resolution to 1080p/60 for the Toshiba and that is working fine. I have the Dish VIP 622 HD DVR.


Ok. Now suddenly it's all working at 1080p/60 .....







After I set it for the Toshiba miraculously it now works when I switch over to satellite input where before it told me I had no picture. This thing sure is tricky.


----------



## mjavman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think the Samsung only takes 1080i input which it scales to 1080p
> 
> 
> Nowhere in the manual does it say it can take a 1080p input. from what I have read.



I thought the Sammy DLP were 1080p via HDMI, which now has me thrown for a loop. What DLPs do take 1080p via HDMI, as I know this is a highly important feature to take advantage of the D2. My plan was either the sammy 61" DLP or wait the 4 weeks for the Sony XBR2 (which I can't determine if it accepts 1080p via HDMI).


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjavman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought the Sammy DLP were 1080p via HDMI, which now has me thrown for a loop. What DLPs do take 1080p via HDMI, as I know this is a highly important feature to take advantage of the D2. My plan was either the sammy 61" DLP or wait the 4 weeks for the Sony XBR2 (which I can't determine if it accepts 1080p via HDMI).



My old Sammy used to up convert to 1080p but this one accepts a 1080p signal.


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjavman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought the Sammy DLP were 1080p via HDMI, which now has me thrown for a loop. What DLPs do take 1080p via HDMI, as I know this is a highly important feature to take advantage of the D2. My plan was either the sammy 61" DLP or wait the 4 weeks for the Sony XBR2 (which I can't determine if it accepts 1080p via HDMI).



I had read that the new XBR's would take 1080P.


Have not found anything that says the sammy takes 1080p


----------



## obie_fl

There is a huge thread on the Sammy over in the display forum it certainly appears to accept 1080P over HDMI.


----------



## uzun

If the AVM40 had room correction I would go for that as a prepro I believe. At this point I'm still in limbo, using a receiver as a prepro until I can find a dedicated prepro that has the features I really want. The D2 is so close, I really want to get one but it's just missing one essential feature for me. If the AVM40 had room correction, and was available, I think I would purchase one right away.


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uzun* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 is so close, I really want to get one but it's just missing one essential feature for me. If the AVM40 had room correction, and was available, I think I would purchase one right away.



It's possible that both the D2 and the AVM50 will eventually have room correction. Why don't you e-mail Anthem and ask if room correction is in their plans or not?


R


----------



## uzun

I did email anthem, and they said room correction was in the plans for the D2 anyway. It has some video processing issues that make it a bad choice for me, and you can't bypass the video processor section in any way (and still process HDMI audio).


Anthem didn't have any timeframe on when room correction would be completed, or if it would be part of the AVM40/50 as well as the D2.


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uzun* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It has some video processing issues that make it a bad choice for me,



My mistake, I thought that room correction was the issue.


R


----------



## uzun

The Lexicon is close to what I want but it's costly for what you get, and I'm not sure it's even as good as the AVM40 sound wise. It's one I've strongly considered, but I'm not convinced about the quality of its room correction, or it's overall sound quality compared to other prepros.


If it were cheaper I'd strongly consider it, but as it is it looks like something that costs twice as much as the AVM50 and perhaps doesnt perform as well sonically.


----------



## rudolpht

Could a new thread be started regarding uzun's "Anthem doesn't fit my needs, what will thread?"


----------



## Bob Pariseau

HDMI saga -- a new and confusing case....


Earlier today I changed the amp configuration I was turning on using the D2's 12 volt triggers. As part of this I switched from Trigger 1 to the higher current Trigger 3.


After a few hours of use, the HDMI from the Comcast box developed a particularly stubborn failure to establish HDCP. All of my usual tricks were no help. I even swapped in a different Comcast box and the problem remained. I was about to conclude my D2's HDMI circuit had developed a permanent failure -- although HDMI to the display and HDMI input from my 59avi DVD player still worked fine so the circuit was not completely fried. The Comcast also worked normally using Component video cabling.


After scratching my head I decided to step back towards my earlier configuration and the first thing I tried, for no good reason except that it was easy, was to set DISABLE on the D2 triggers.


And voila the Comcast HDMI started working again!


Then I re-enabled the D2 triggers and the HDMI continued working!


It's now several hours later -- with the triggers still enabled -- and the Comcast HDMI is still working correctly.


I have no idea if this was a coincidence or if there's something important going on here. The drain on Trigger 3 for the stuff that I'm using is well WELL below its 200 mA spec. But maybe there's a timing issue between when the draw initially happens on that trigger and when the Comcast decides to try for HDCP handshake (remembering that the Comcast is never really shutoff unless you pull it's plug out). It does appear that once the Comcast decides it is unhappy with HDCP you need to hit it with a crowbar to get it to try again.


So, if anyone has an HDMI problem and happens to be using D2 triggers, please try temporarily disabling your D2 triggers and report back if that seems to clear up your problem. If there really is a relationship here, we'll have something that Anthem can sink its engineering teeth into.

--Bob


----------



## Alan Gouger

Lets stay on topic and keep other brands out of this thread. Thank you.


----------



## obie_fl

Tim - Sorry will stick to the D2 talk from now on.


Bob - That is very weird. Hopefully just a bizarre coincident and not a power problem.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Came across another HDMI audio idiosyncrasy tonight. I had to switch the Toshiba HD DVD HDMI Audio from Auto to down converted PCM to get the commentary and gag feature to work on Kiss Kiss Bang Bang, anyone else seen this? I don't believe I've watched any of the extras on HD DVD before tonight, so not sure if it is just this title. KKBB was a surprisingly good flick too.



Anyone have a experience with this issue? I tried Aeon Flux tonight and it did it also. It appears if I have the Toshiba HDMI audio set to anything other then downmix PCM I don't get sound on the commentaries or any of the extra features. In fact I noticed on the AF disc tonight that while the main menu looped I was only getting the menu clicks until I changed to PCM downsample. It appears that the Auto and PCM setting on the Toshiba only work on my system if it is decoding a straight DD+ signal with nothing mixed in.


Surely one of you HD DVD guys has tried this. I'm trying to figure out if it is just my system or if others have seen this.


----------



## Max Spivak

Only the Statement D1 & D2 will get room correction, not the AVM line. There's only one DSP cpu in AVM -- D1/D2 have two. The additional horsepower is needed to process room correction.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Spivak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Only the Statement D1 & D2 will get room correction, not the AVM line. There's only one DSP cpu in AVM -- D1/D2 have two. The additional horsepower is needed to process room correction.



Max, assume that is from the horses mouth, and intuitively that is a good marketing but it doesn't make sense to me completely. The typical room correction I'm familiar with is a diagnostic to plot response curves for correction, e.g., automated detection of feet of speaker from microphone, equalization curves, etc., so it is diagnostic and settings generation - not "live" during pre-amp use other than testing.


----------



## Johnla

Yeah that don't make much sense. Because once a EQ/room correction plot is made up by a unit in the setup procedure, I'm sure it no longer consumes any real power to implement it. Some memory maybe to hold the plots it came up with, but any real CPU power I doubt. If such a thing was even any sort of real time CPU power hog, then I doubt you would find MCAAC on the lower end $300-$400 Pioneer receivers like they do have.


----------



## mjavman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI saga -- a new and confusing case....
> 
> I have no idea if this was a coincidence or if there's something important going on here. The drain on Trigger 3 for the stuff that I'm using is well WELL below its 200 mA spec. But maybe there's a timing issue between when the draw initially happens on that trigger and when the Comcast decides to try for HDCP handshake (remembering that the Comcast is never really shutoff unless you pull it's plug out). It does appear that once the Comcast decides it is unhappy with HDCP you need to hit it with a crowbar to get it to try again.
> 
> --Bob



I can't help but think about the movie Apollo 13 where Gary Sinese is trying to power back up the main ship and it is "all in the sequencing."


Its a few weeks more before I set everything up, but I'm going to document sequencing, HDMI input selection, the whole shibang. I'll try to keep a good enough record to post and share with Anthem. Anthem = NASA


----------



## mjavman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had read that the new XBR's would take 1080P.



So I'll probably wait to see the XBR2. However this brings me back to the question about taking advantage of the D2's video scaling, which is my main reason for choosing the D2.


1080i to 1080p, thats an easy to understand as is 720p to 1080p, but what are you all experiencing on the SD to 1080p up conversion? Does the anthem let you keep the original aspect ratio as an option, or does it have to default to 16:9? Have you found one setting better then another?


Additionally, from the whole seating distance/screen size perspective with SD scaled to 1080p what is the visual effect with respect to the details. Does the upconverting let you actually sit closer/go larger without seeing the pixels?


I have seen other scalers but not the Genum, some with some impressive results off of DVDs, that scaled to 1080i.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim - Sorry will stick to the D2 talk from now on.
> 
> 
> Bob - That is very weird. Hopefully just a bizarre coincident and not a power problem.
> 
> 
> Anyone have a experience with this issue? I tried Aeon Flux tonight and it did it also. It appears if I have the Toshiba HDMI audio set to anything other then downmix PCM I don't get sound on the commentaries or any of the extra features. In fact I noticed on the AF disc tonight that while the main menu looped I was only getting the menu clicks until I changed to PCM downsample. It appears that the Auto and PCM setting on the Toshiba only work on my system if it is decoding a straight DD+ signal with nothing mixed in.
> 
> 
> Surely one of you HD DVD guys has tried this. I'm trying to figure out if it is just my system or if others have seen this.



Greetings,


Tom, I checked for this on my AVM-50/Toshiba HD-A1 and have no problem. My HD-A1 is set to Auto and both the commentary and extra's play normally. The same goes for the menu loop as well. I also tried it on Swordfish and it was the same.


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Fan update:


Just a quick update that my cabinet configuration with the D2 in a double-height space, open only to the rear, seems to be working just fine without requiring any external fan. In this configuration, the D2 has about 12 inches of air space above it, all open to the rear, and is otherwise isolated from other heat sources.


Interior air and interior cabinet surface temperatures, at steady state, remain about where they were with the D2 in its original single height space along with a largish external fan (near the power supply side of the D2) exhausting to the rear.


So no fan noise to deal with any more.


-----------------------------------------------


Triggers update:


A few more hours of continuous operation with the D2 triggers enabled, and so far no repeat of last night's HDMI problems.


Besides simple co-incidence, and a possible current draw conflict between the triggers and the HDMI/HDCP circuits, another possibility here is that there is a firmware problem affecting the video board's proper operation that is caused by making a change to the D2's trigger configuration (in the Setup menu), and which is cleared by disabling and re-enabling the D2 triggers (in that same menu). This is not so far fetched since one way to configure the D2 triggers is to have them activate when a specific input is selected. So the process of selecting an input has to go through various firmware stages such as automatic digital vs. analog audio input selection and possible trigger activation. Any of this could possibly conflict with the proper handling of the HDMI handshake. Normally, I believe, such handshake would be isolated inside the HDMI driver chips independent of other things the pre-pro is doing, but the D2 may be doing this in a more complicated way due to it's Repeater = YES/NO function.


Anyway this is all just guess work at the moment.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tom, I checked for this on my AVM-50/Toshiba HD-A1 and have no problem. My HD-A1 is set to Auto and both the commentary and extra's play normally. The same goes for the menu loop as well. I also tried it on Swordfish and it was the same.



Thanks Ralph are you running the 1.4 firmware on the Toshiba? Reason I ask is I don't recall seeing the issue before upgrading.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Max, assume that is from the horses mouth, and intuitively that is a good marketing but it doesn't make sense to me completely. The typical room correction I'm familiar with is a diagnostic to plot response curves for correction, e.g., automated detection of feet of speaker from microphone, equalization curves, etc., so it is diagnostic and settings generation - not "live" during pre-amp use other than testing.



I don't know I thought most of these systems worked in the time domain too and have to react to the source in real time. I think it is much more then just slapping a bunch of filters on the signal, even that could be fairly processor intensive if you are applying numerous and distinct filters on all eight channels.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Ralph are you running the 1.4 firmware on the Toshiba? Reason I ask is I don't recall seeing the issue before upgrading.




Greetings,


Tom, sorry about that I should have mentioned the firmware. I am running 1.4 firmware which came installed with my HD-A1.


Regards,


----------



## obie_fl

Darn there goes another theory down the tubes. I guess I need to check the D2 settings again. Are you running 1.06 on the Anthem or is the AVM-50 firmware based on a different release schedule then the D2?


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Darn there goes another theory down the tubes. I guess I need to check the D2 settings again. Are you running 1.06 on the Anthem or is the AVM-50 firmware based on a different release schedule then the D2?




Greetings,


Tom, I am running v1.06 as well.....



Regards,


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI saga -- a new and confusing case....
> 
> 
> Earlier today I changed the amp configuration I was turning on using the D2's 12 volt triggers. As part of this I switched from Trigger 1 to the higher current Trigger 3.
> 
> 
> After a few hours of use, the HDMI from the Comcast box developed a particularly stubborn failure to establish HDCP. All of my usual tricks were no help. I even swapped in a different Comcast box and the problem remained. I was about to conclude my D2's HDMI circuit had developed a permanent failure -- although HDMI to the display and HDMI input from my 59avi DVD player still worked fine so the circuit was not completely fried. The Comcast also worked normally using Component video cabling.
> 
> 
> After scratching my head I decided to step back towards my earlier configuration and the first thing I tried, for no good reason except that it was easy, was to set DISABLE on the D2 triggers.
> 
> 
> And voila the Comcast HDMI started working again!
> 
> 
> Then I re-enabled the D2 triggers and the HDMI continued working!
> 
> 
> It's now several hours later -- with the triggers still enabled -- and the Comcast HDMI is still working correctly.
> 
> 
> I have no idea if this was a coincidence or if there's something important going on here. The drain on Trigger 3 for the stuff that I'm using is well WELL below its 200 mA spec. But maybe there's a timing issue between when the draw initially happens on that trigger and when the Comcast decides to try for HDCP handshake (remembering that the Comcast is never really shutoff unless you pull it's plug out). It does appear that once the Comcast decides it is unhappy with HDCP you need to hit it with a crowbar to get it to try again.
> 
> 
> So, if anyone has an HDMI problem and happens to be using D2 triggers, please try temporarily disabling your D2 triggers and report back if that seems to clear up your problem. If there really is a relationship here, we'll have something that Anthem can sink its engineering teeth into.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I thought you might be on to something here because in my prior HDMI video failures these problems seemed to have appeared after I connected and enabled Trigger 1 and 2. On my latest failed D2, I have just disabled the triggers but unfortunately this did not bring my video back (went through several power up/down sequences). That is the case with this unit that has no video whatsoever (HDMI and component). However, based upon my prior failures which I cannot verify anymore (units sent back) I think there may be something to the HDMI/Trigger situation that you may have discovered.


BTW: I had thought my (5th) replacement D2 was to be here by now but just got a call from the dealer that Anthem never shipped it as promised. They said they were shipping 11 days ago. Now another 7-10 days. Since I took delivery of the D2 in the beginning of June (2.5+ months ago) I have had a fully operational D2 for a total of ~15 minutes. With the additional delay, it will now be at least 3 months. Probably not a good idea to ask me for a testimonial on the D2. I'm numb.


I wonder if my warranty period reinitializes and gets extended each time I get a new replacement unit?


By the time I get this sorted out I should have room equalization plus all the other new features on my delivered unit.


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BTW: I had thought my (5th) replacement D2 was to be here by now but just got a call from the dealer that Anthem never shipped it as promised. They said they were shipping 11 days ago. Now another 7-10 days.



Maybe it's better that way: it's possible that Anthem might be making some changes to the D2 and that they are thoroughly testing the 5th D2 they are sending you. You might get the best D2 ever made.


R


----------



## Max Spivak

Regarding equalization -- I believe I heard that from the horse's mouth. Either from Nick or dealer. It's one of the main reasons I bought a D2 instead of AVM50.


Now, about the Conservation of Bugs Law --


I got my second D2 today. My dealer was at a jobsite not to far from me, so we agreed that he'd drive it over to do a quick test of the replacement unit. I first showed him my original D2, with it's green dots and hum problems. He confirmed both of them.


Out went the first D2 (serial 131238) and in went the second (131505). The new unit has 1.06 firmware. No clips on hdmi ports. Unit appears new -- no scratches. Basic connections only - amp, oppo 970 over hdmi, projector.


The good: green dots problem gone


The bad: Hum still there. I need to run through all the tests I did before, but the dealer didn't find any obvious problems with my wiring. So this points to the D2 -- again.


New problem: High-pitch squeal. Audible pretty much anytime. I'm too bummed right now to debug.










Dealer says he'll contact Anthem next week. At least he saw it and heard it.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnla* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah that don't make much sense. Because once a EQ/room correction plot is made up by a unit in the setup procedure, I'm sure it no longer consumes any real power to implement it. Some memory maybe to hold the plots it came up with, but any real CPU power I doubt. If such a thing was even any sort of real time CPU power hog, then I doubt you would find MCAAC on the lower end $300-$400 Pioneer receivers like they do have.



I think it may be more based on marketing & product differentiation. I don't blame anthem, it's simple tiering of products, like Ford & Lincoln, but the options kill ya










Application of multi-dimensional filters, even dynamically is not processor intensive. Now this feature is vaporware until released but maybe there is some new fangled dynamic application, ie multiple mics plugged into some undetermined port. Even much simpler static sampling (compared to cheap MCACC receivers) would be a nice addition, at least to contrast to sound meter and other settings tools.


----------



## PaulT_BC

FYI - Kris Deering has reviewed the D2 at Secrets:
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...006-page1.html


----------



## Monty Williams

Very strong review. I've had the D2 for a week now and have been very pleased with it. I'm trying to find another one for my second home.


"The D2 encompasses one of the best add-ons I've ever seen for any product, period. As a stand-alone video processor it is outstanding and better than the vast majority of video processors I've ever evaluated. The fact that it does true HD video processing makes it a standout in a very limited market. Couple this with the HDMI switching and the fact that it supports all the audio formats that will be soon become the new standard with HD DVD and Blu-Ray and you have an investment that will pay off for a long time to come. The Anthem Statement D2 will continue to be my reference Audio/Video processor and I could not recommend a product more. "


- Kris Deering -


----------



## wingnut4772




Monty Williams said:


> Very strong review. I've had the D2 for a week now and have been very pleased with it. I'm trying to find another one for my second home.
> 
> 
> "The D2 encompasses one of the best add-ons I've ever seen for any product, period. As a stand-alone video processor it is outstanding and better than the vast majority of video processors I've ever evaluated. The fact that it does true HD video processing makes it a standout in a very limited market. Couple this with the HDMI switching and the fact that it supports all the audio formats that will be soon become the new standard with HD DVD and Blu-Ray and you have an investment that will pay off for a long time to come. The Anthem Statement D2 will continue to be my reference Audio/Video processor and I could not recommend a product more. "
> 
> 
> - Kris Deering -[/QUO
> 
> That's a great review. I think that when all the little hitches are ironed out it will be an almost perfect little pre.


----------



## obie_fl

Yea Kris is a big Anthem fanboy.










There were hardly any negatives in the entire review, contrast that to this thread and you have to wonder if it is the same unit. Personally my experience has been much closer to Kris's. The only nagging problem I have with mine is the inability to get sound on the HD DVD extra featurettes and commentary tracks but others have not reported this. The only feature missing from my want list is a digital transport for SACD, too bad Anthem dropped the iLink interface.


It occurs to me that maybe a lot of the problems with the D2 we are seeing are later production units. I'm assuming Kris's and Levesque's units are early models as I know both have had them for a while and mine is S/N 130290. 290th unit built? Could explain some of what has been experienced here.


----------



## LEVESQUE

Nice review form Kris! My experience with my D2 was, and still is, like Kris's.


My unit is 8 months old already, and working great since the first day. I'm reviewing alot of DVD players and different HDMI sources lately, and I have to change them REALLY often, and so far, even with all this abuse, my HDMI connectors are not having any problems.


2 of my friends bought D2s in the first batch, and they are physically just like line, and working without issues. But another of my friend received is first D2 yesterday and is really not happy. It's a B-stock unit with a damaged XLR connector for the sub, and some scratches on the front display and on the front plate.


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The only nagging problem I have with mine is the inability to get sound on the HD DVD extra featurettes and commentary tracks but others have not reported this.



I remember having a somewhat similar problem with a D1 - no sound on some DVD menus. I e-mailed Anthem about it and they quickly fixed the problem with a software upgrade.


R


----------



## obie_fl

Raz - This is an HDMI and HD DVD only problem. I'm hoping it is a firmware problem either on the D2 or A1, but no one else seems to be reporting it.


OK a little more background. With the Toshiba A1 HDMI audio set to either Auto or PCM the following results:


The main feature plays fine as 5.1 96K PCM.


Any extra features or in movie commentary do not work, total silence.


The main menu does not appear to be mapped correctly; I get just the center channel and maybe a little in the surrounds. I am getting the menu click effects, but most of the underlying soundtrack is gone. I am not sure at this point if it is just a matter of the L&R mains being missing.


The only D2 setting that appears to have any impact on the issue is the HDMI 6 channel Map setting. By cycling through the various mappings I can get sound from the extra features but I'm not sure they are being mapped to the correct speakers. My default setting is Auto and has the problem described above.


If I switch the Toshiba A1 HDMI audio to Bitstream or Downsampled PCM things work as expected albeit as DTS or two channels of PCM at 48K respectively.


Latest firmware is loaded on the both the Anthem(1.06) and Toshiba(1.4).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

obie

If the "extras" sound channels are being incorrectly mapped to the LFE channel you'd get the effect you describe because the sounds would be above the subwoofer's crossover frequency and would be cut off.


I don't know if you have any speaker configuration stuff set in the HD/DVD player but you might double check that if you do. Since you don't want the HD/DVD player to be doing any bass steering or such, the HD/DVD should think that all your main speakers are large, and that you have a subwoofer, and that everything is at the same distance. Leave it to the D2 to do any processing after it receives that unaltered signal.


Also, when checking Mode settings on the D2, keep in mind that the menu sound track and extras are probably only 2 channel, and thus the D2 will go to whatever Mode you have set for that input for 2 channel, along with any adjustments you may have made for that Mode. In particular, if while listening to 2 channel on that input you have accidentally turned down the front speaker volume using the temporary setting remote control button (above left of the Select button), that temporary setting will be memorized, but only for that specific 2 channel Mode (triggered by 2 channel coming in on that input). So when playing other 2 channel inputs using different Modes or when playing 6 channel from the HD/DVD you wouldn't be affected.


One quick way to discard any and all such temporary settings you might have accidentally set is to Save User Settings in the Setup menu, then restore Factory settings in that same menu, then restore Saved User Settings.


You can get additional information on what the D2 thinks it is receiving by repeatedly pressing the Select button on the remote.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Thanks for the reply Bob.


I was under the understanding the speaker settings in the A1 applied to analog only. I will play around with those settings though good point.


I understand what you are saying about 2 channel and that is probably a big part of the problem, the D2 is *not* switching to two channel and remains stuck on 5.1 Digital 96K when the problem is active.


I've already done the factory reset trick no difference.


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Raz - This is an HDMI and HD DVD only problem. I'm hoping it is a firmware problem either on the D2 or A1, but no one else seems to be reporting it.



Tom - just let Anthem know about your problem, my D1 had several 'unique' problems that no one else was reporting and yet Anthem was able to fix most of them.


R


----------



## obie_fl

Already emailed em hopefully they can reproduce it and come up with a fix.


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Monty Williams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Very strong review. I've had the D2 for a week now and have been very pleased with it. I'm trying to find another one for my second home.
> 
> 
> "The D2 encompasses one of the best add-ons I've ever seen for any product, period. As a stand-alone video processor it is outstanding and better than the vast majority of video processors I've ever evaluated. The fact that it does true HD video processing makes it a standout in a very limited market. Couple this with the HDMI switching and the fact that it supports all the audio formats that will be soon become the new standard with HD DVD and Blu-Ray and you have an investment that will pay off for a long time to come. The Anthem Statement D2 will continue to be my reference Audio/Video processor and I could not recommend a product more. "
> 
> 
> - Kris Deering -



Of course its going to be a strong review. Look at all the Anthem banner adds on the Home Page.


Not one remark on the fact that if you mess up the HDMI connector your warranty is invalid.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Of course its going to be a strong review. Look at all the Anthem banner adds on the Home Page.
> 
> 
> Not one remark on the fact that if you mess up the HDMI connector your warranty is invalid.




Greetings,


tycoondog, in all fairness have you ever read a review that made mention of the warranty fine print? I know Kris and feel confident that what is stated in his review has in fact been his experience with the D2.


Let's not turn this into another attack on a reviewer which in this case has nothing to do with the topic/spirit of this thread.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

obie,

In the Setup menu's input setup page for the HD/DVD input, what do you have as the default settings for Mode if the input is 2 channel or 2 channel surround?


Have you tried playing with the D2's mode while the HD/DVD is supposedly playing these 2 channel menus and extras? You can change mode by pressing the Mode button on the D2 remote and then using the up and down buttons. Some modes for 2 channel will only be accessible if you turn THX off (press the THX button on the remote and use the up or down arrow to turn THX off). I guess some of the 2 channel modes might not work with 96Khz input.


Here's another thing to try: While the HD/DVD is playing this extras content (and thus should be in 2 channel), and the D2 is showing 5.1 channel input instead, try switching to a different D2 input, pause 5 seconds or so, and then switch back to the HD/DVD input. This will force a new HDMI handshake on that input. However, I'm not sure if that Toshiba player will allow you to continue through such actions or whether it will insist you start playing the disc over again. Perhaps doing this while playing a menu would be a safer test.


I suspect there's something simple here that we're overlooking. As another experiment you could start over with the D2 settings by temporarily restoring factory settings and then doing JUST the minimal changes necessary to activate the HD/DVD input for audio play (cinema speaker config without worrying about calibration, HD/DVD input socket selection, and HDMI video output setup so that the HDMI from the HD/DVD will handshake properly).


If there's a way to restore factory defaults in the Toshiba that would probably be wise as well.


Then see if THAT makes the switch between 5.1 and 2 channel work OK. If so, you know it's one of your user settings that is causing the problem.

--Bob


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Razvanel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tom - just let Anthem know about your problem, my D1 had several 'unique' problems that no one else was reporting and yet Anthem was able to fix most of them.
> 
> 
> R



See now a statement like that scares the Hell out of me. They were only able to fix "most" of the problems in a $6K device! That's not very reassuring.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Razvanel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe it's better that way: it's possible that Anthem might be making some changes to the D2 and that they are thoroughly testing the 5th D2 they are sending you. You might get the best D2 ever made.
> 
> 
> R



I'm waiting for my third and my dealer indicated it's going to be awhile because the D2 is undergoing some hardware revisions to solve the reliability issues that are being encountered.


----------



## cigarguy

What reliablility issues?


Lev's unit has been working flawlessly for 8 months.


Kris Deerings unit was the best piece of equipment he's ever owned?


Why on earth would Anthem make any hardware changes at all when 2 of the internets most prolific Anthem supporters have no issues whatsoever?


Jerry, you must just have gotten a bad unit, thats all. You and notanewbie and about 6 others in this thread.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> obie,
> 
> In the Setup menu's input setup page for the HD/DVD input, what do you have as the default settings for Mode if the input is 2 channel or 2 channel surround?



I have tried DPIIX and Anthem Logic but currently have it to plain ole stereo so as to not muddy the issue.


> Quote:
> Have you tried playing with the D2's mode while the HD/DVD is supposedly playing these 2 channel menus and extras? You can change mode by pressing the Mode button on the D2 remote and then using the up and down buttons. Some modes for 2 channel will only be accessible if you turn THX off (press the THX button on the remote and use the up or down arrow to turn THX off). I guess some of the 2 channel modes might not work with 96Khz input.



Yes I have done the above. The problem boils down to this if I just start from scratch the disc comes up in six channel mode and the feature works fine. If I go into the Anthem menu and monkey around I can force it to two channel and the extras and menu then work. At that point if I try to play the main feature I only get the L&R mains but I can tell it is playing the 5.1 track because all the dialogue from the center is gone. The only way I have found to force it back to 6-channel is to stop and re-start the disc.


> Quote:
> Here's another thing to try: While the HD/DVD is playing this extras content (and thus should be in 2 channel), and the D2 is showing 5.1 channel input instead, try switching to a different D2 input, pause 5 seconds or so, and then switch back to the HD/DVD input. This will force a new HDMI handshake on that input. However, I'm not sure if that Toshiba player will allow you to continue through such actions or whether it will insist you start playing the disc over again. Perhaps doing this while playing a menu would be a safer test.



You will get an HDMI 1 error on the Toshiba if you do that.


> Quote:
> I suspect there's something simple here that we're overlooking. As another experiment you could start over with the D2 settings by temporarily restoring factory settings and then doing JUST the minimal changes necessary to activate the HD/DVD input for audio play (cinema speaker config without worrying about calibration, HD/DVD input socket selection, and HDMI video output setup so that the HDMI from the HD/DVD will handshake properly).



Already did just that, no change.


> Quote:
> If there's a way to restore factory defaults in the Toshiba that would probably be wise as well Then see if THAT makes the switch between 5.1 and 2 channel work OK. If so, you know it's one of your user settings that is causing the problem.
> 
> --Bob



Not sure how to restore default on the A1 but I have thought about rolling back to the 1.2 firmware since I have it on disc. I'm going to wait until I hear from Anthem as it really isn't that big of a deal and everything else is working. I'm also crossing my fingers that Toshiba releases the 2.0 firmware soon.


Thanks for the help Bob.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It occurs to me that maybe a lot of the problems with the D2 we are seeing are later production units. I'm assuming Kris's and Levesque's units are early models as I know both have had them for a while and mine is S/N 130290. 290th unit built? Could explain some of what has been experienced here.



I guess no one is buying into this theory huh.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not one remark on the fact that if you mess up the HDMI connector your warranty is invalid.



To be fair though Anthem does not seem to be enforcing this and replacing units, sometimes multiple times.


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To be fair though Anthem does not seem to be enforcing this and replacing units, sometimes multiple times.



Agreed for the people we know about, but it also looks like they maybe redesigning the board as the 2 people with problems are having to wait a rather long time for a replacement unit.


That's why I am still sitting on the fence.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cigarguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jerry, you must just have gotten a bad unit, thats all. You and notanewbie and about 6 others in this thread.



It's funny that you are speaking about Notanewbie like he's another person, when it's actually you under a new alias.







I think there is a medical term for that condition... I mean, people talking about themselves like it's someone else.







I think that getting back on an internet forum under a new alias after getting banned from there is also indicating something else, and there is also probably a medical term for that...










Please Notanewbie, sorry, I mean cigarguy, don't start everything all over again. You sold your D2, so get over it. Go buy a new pre/pro from another manufacturer and then start attacking everyone like you did on the SMR forum when you had a Lexicon, before buying the Anthem, and then doing it about Anthem. And I think you did the exact same thing with a dedicated scaler you bought just before also... I'm detecting a pattern here...









*Notanewbie/cigarguy, the title of this thread is "Anthem D2/AVM50 tweaking guide". Could you respect the title of this thread, please?*


----------



## obie_fl

I understand not wanting to jump in now, the truth is this is a bleeding edge device without any other peers. I had a bit of buyers remorse while I was waiting on mine to show up, but once I actually recieved it I've been very pleased and have no regrets. I also take the redesign, if true as a good thing as it is Anthem actively trying to make it right.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For those keeping score, I've really got only two concerns about my D2. The one I've posted most frequently on is the inability of the D2 to maintain a robust HDMI/HDCP connection with my Comcast/Motorola HD/DVR. This Comcast box is known to be, umm, difficult, so my refusal to just give up and switch to Component cabling is pure stubborness.


I've developed a lot of theories about heat related issues, and/or combinations of D2 setup stuff leading to these problems, but in reality there's nothing solid yet that really explains this. Sometimes the Comcast/D2 combo works like a champ for days at a time. Other times it fails and can be a bear to get working again. On my most recent failure (as it turns out, *NOT* fixable by disabling Triggers, by the way) I just decided to leave the Comcast and the D2 sitting there with the ghastly green screen of failure displayed. After about 10-15 minutes the problem FIXED ITSELF with no further intervention from me. I've now got about 24 hours of flawless operation since that happened. And that includes several power cycles and etc., which might well have produced a new failure. Go figur....


----------------------------------------------------


However my second problem was really giving me second thoughts about the D2. My display is a couple years old and has a DVI/HDCP input. That means it takes 8 bit RGB as input. It's a Fujitsu plasma and does a good job of dithering low level grays to counter the effects of that limited input.


Unfortunately, when connected to the D2, I had severe noise problems in the low level grays. The D2 does 10 bit internal processing but has to dither down to 8 bit when sending out RGB -- see Kris's review for example. My theory is that the noise I was seeing was a result of a conflict between the D2's dithering and what was going on in my plasma -- kind of a beat frequency between those two algorithms.


Well today I did another calibration pass, specifically focused on eliminating the noise in the low level grays. I use the gray scale ramps, IRE windowed fields, and steps charts (both normal and "monotonicity") in Avia Pro to see this stuff. The noise, when present, is not at all subtle. It's easy to see the noise vary, or move between IRE levels, when making Brightness/Contrast level changes.


And I found a solution.


Actually I'd say I'm about 90% there right now. Certainly close enough for delightful viewing, and maybe as good as it gets with my display.


The trick was to use a control in my plasma that raises the overall luminance level indpendent of the Blacks/Whites settings. Raising this one step apparently changed the dithering going on inside the display enough that it was no longer beating against the dithering produced by the D2. What's left is a "normal" level of dithering noise for this display.


Whatever's really going on, I've now got low level grays which are comparable in quality to the best I could get previously by directly connecting my 59avi DVD player to the DVI input of the Fujitsu. And every other aspect of the imagery is improved by running 480i into the D2 (HDMI to HDMI) and then 1360x768p to the display (HDMI to DVI).


I may be able to tweak this up a bit better as time goes on, but I'm now solidly in the camp that says the HDMI video path through the D2 really produces spectacular results. However if you have an 8 bit RGB display, it may take some serious patience to find the magic combo of display and D2 settings that produces nirvana.


-------------------------------------------------------


And this leads to the real reason I'm sticking with HDMI from my Comcast box.


The settings I'm using on my 59avi are known to produce "standard" HDMI output values from the 59avi (see the 59avi Owner's Thread in the Standard Definition DVD forum here). The level settings combo of (1) the D2's input settings for the 59avi input, and (2) the settings on my display which together produced the best results are thus the "best" settings for processing "proper" HDMI values through the D2 to my display.


And that means that if I connect my Comcast box via HDMI, setting the SAME COMBO of D2 and display settings should give me the best chance of having proper levels for Comcast viewing as well -- modulo the odd variations that happen between various broadcast stations.


The one gotcha here is the color space difference between the DVD content (SDTV style color) and HDTV from the Comcast, but the D2 automagically handles that colorspace stuff already.


Contrast with if I had the Comcast connected via Component cabling. Now there's no reason whatsoever to believe that the "best" HDMI settings from the 59avi would also be the "best" Component settings for viewing the Comcast. Thus I'd have to get a light sensor, *AND* find some standardized test patterns broadcast on some Comcast channel, to calibrate the Comcast independently.


Or more likely I'd have to hire an ISF guy to come in with a signal generator and a light sensor, and etc.


The point is, the proper settings with this combo of hardware are finicky in the extreme. Screw up just a little and the nasty noise comes back. So being able to transfer settings "proved' with Avia Pro on my 59avi to the Comcast video path is a big win. And that can only be done if I use the Comcast's HDMI output.


The proof is in the viewing. Having achieved near nirvana with my current "best" settings for 59avi viewing through the D2, I then transferred those settings to the Comcast video path and voila I've now got eye candy there as well. At least until the Comcast decides it no longer likes my HDCP again.....


At the moment, life is good.

--Bob


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cigarguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kris Deerings unit was the best piece of equipment he's ever owned?
> 
> 
> Why on earth would Anthem make any hardware changes at all when 2 of the internets most prolific Anthem supporters have no issues whatsoever?
> 
> 
> Jerry, you must just have gotten a bad unit, thats all. You and notanewbie and about 6 others in this thread.




And Kris Deering's first D2 was DOA.


I figure it this way, if you buy a D2 you have a 50/50 chance of getting a good one, then if you get a good one you have less than a 50/50 chance that your D2 and your peripherals wind up being compatible.


So, if you happen to be one of the lucky few..........


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And Kris Deering's first D2 was DOA.



It sucks being an early adopter. 2 defective D1's in a row and then 4 defective RDC-7.1's in a row for me and my 5th RDC-7.1 in not perfect either, all early units. Next time I buy a processor I'll wait at least one year from its release date so that all bugs are fixed.


R


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Of course its going to be a strong review. Look at all the Anthem banner adds on the Home Page.
> 
> 
> Not one remark on the fact that if you mess up the HDMI connector your warranty is invalid.



Um, what does that have to do with me? I've gotten paid the same amount for every review I've done since I started working for Secrets, even before Anthem ads were on the site. If I didn't like the D2, I would definitely say so. Advertising doesn't do me any good and my EIC never edits my reviews except for spelling and grammar.


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yea Kris is a big Anthem fanboy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There were hardly any negatives in the entire review, contrast that to this thread and you have to wonder if it is the same unit. Personally my experience has been much closer to Kris's. The only nagging problem I have with mine is the inability to get sound on the HD DVD extra featurettes and commentary tracks but others have not reported this. The only feature missing from my want list is a digital transport for SACD, too bad Anthem dropped the iLink interface.
> 
> 
> It occurs to me that maybe a lot of the problems with the D2 we are seeing are later production units. I'm assuming Kris's and Levesque's units are early models as I know both have had them for a while and mine is S/N 130290. 290th unit built? Could explain some of what has been experienced here.



I've definitely had issues with the Anthem, but every one of them was ironed out within a week of me telling Anthem about them. Now it has been running flawlessly for a few months now. I did have a nagging HDMI issue, but that turned out to be a faulty cable of all things!! Anthem even sent me a new D2 to remedy the problem because I swore it was the D2, and I got the same thing. Soon as I swapped the cable all the issues went away!!


I am interested in seeing what they do next with it. I know of some things in the works that will be interetign.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've definitely had issues with the Anthem, but every one of them was ironed out within a week of me telling Anthem about them. Now it has been running flawlessly for a few months now. I did have a nagging HDMI issue, but that turned out to be a faulty cable of all things!! Anthem even sent me a new D2 to remedy the problem because I swore it was the D2, and I got the same thing. Soon as I swapped the cable all the issues went away!!
> 
> 
> I am interested in seeing what they do next with it. I know of some things in the works that will be interetign.



Thanks for the very detailed review Kris, even though i own a D2, i enjoyed it. One question for you though...


In the review you mentioned that you had an Benq 8720 on hand to test colorspaces. Were you able to pass btb and wtw when using 4:2:2 to the Benq?


An installer on another thread mentioned that the Benq wont pass these tests with 422 due to a limitation with its HDMI receiver chip, you need to use 444 or RGB. Ive been sending RGB to my 8720 based on this info but was then disappointed to find that the D2 is only processing in 8-bit by me doing so. Can you confirm this same clipping behavior with the 8720 and D2 using 422?


----------



## DrJRapp

In the few moments that the scaler either of my D2s worked in the past four months, the pq did look every bit as good as Kris reports. Kris doesn't deserve criticism from anyone. He didn't make the thing and It's not his job to promote anything, purely report on it. I'm very glad that he opened up about his problems with it here to add balance to his review.


Part of the problem with owning a D2 is that the early reports from credible people like Levesque and Gostan played down the problems and set high expectations. As I said in an earlier post one has about a 50% chance of getting a good one, and then a less than 50% chance of having it work trouble free with your peripherals. For those of us old enough to remember, it's sort of like the early days of plug-and-play in Windows 95. You paid your money and took your chances. So, one needs to enter a D2 purchase with the expectation that there will be some issues. And, since most of us don't have the stature of either Kris Deering or Al Levesque, don't expect Anthem to solve YOUR problems quite as fast.


The D2 does have it's strengths....the SQ is phenominal, that's the only reason I'm hanging in for a third try.


----------



## wingnut4772

I am seriously considering just keeping the D2 I have . I don't seem to have any of these problems really except for the slight intermittent variation in brightness on Sat. My HDMI connections are solid and a cooling fan keeps her happy so I think I am going to stick with my unit for now. I have discovered a couple of my D2's "problems" are a result of blondeness







.


I am having a drop out issue with my Pioneer 79avi on redbook cds. I am using the cheap HDMI cable that came with my Toshiba HDA1 on the Pioneer. The drop outs do not happen often and I only have the Pioneer connected via HDMI....


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As I said in an earlier post one has about a 50% chance of getting a good one, and then a less than 50% chance of having it work trouble free with your peripherals.



Honestly Jerry, I have to ask... If those % are true, who in their right mind would continue to produce something like this?


The last I've heard from the factory at Anthem is that there are several hundred AVM 50 and D2 out there and that the percentage that has been returned is a single-digit figure, including those with a failure not due to manufacturing or design. And a few people don't realize that components in their system other than Anthem are the ones to blame...


----------



## obie_fl

I have no idea how many D2s or AVM-50s have been sold and/or returned. I suspect it lies somewhere in between the above posts by Jerry and Levesque. The more I read, the more I'm convinced that the design is a moving target and there have been some pretty major revisions under the hood, and not just firmware. As evidence I'd point out some of the differences in the video boards and HDMI connectors that have been mentioned. This may be the result of going into full scale production and getting quantities up to meet demand.


I said it earlier but this is a bleeding edge device and has no peers at this time. I'm not trying to make excuses for Anthem but they do appear to be trying to make it right. I wouldn't blame anyone for sitting this out for a while. There are people out there who have functional units, myself included, I don't think it is fair to say the reviewers have missed all the problems mentioned here because it is quite possible they don't have them.


----------



## JohnRB




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As I said in an earlier post one has about a 50% chance of getting a good one, and then a less than 50% chance of having it work trouble free with your peripherals.




The failure rate is no where in the vicinity of 50%, this comment has absolutely no basis in fact. Can you honestly say that Anthem has been engaging in unit swapping with over half their customers? And that only 25% of their units are actually working? There are hundreds of D2's currently in circulation, almost all of them are working flawlessly or had problems that were fixed with 1.06. Just because happy owners don't feel the need to come onto the forums doesn't mean that they don't exist.


My personal D2 wasn't flawless, it had HDMI switching errors that were fixed with a firmware update. Does the fact that Anthem wasn't able to test compatability with every other component on the market bother me? Not in the least. I have personally seen 7 different D2's all of them performing perfectly, including mine thats 8 working units that I have personally operated without a single defective. Some of them are still running v1.00, they just don't care to fix it if its not broken.


John


Edit: Thats what I get for leaving my message window open for 4.5 hours.


Levesque - Beat me too it

Obie - All D2's currently being shipped from the factory are the same as the first releases, excluding the different HDMI connectors.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Honestly Jerry, I have to ask... If those % are true, who in their right mind would continue to produce something like this?



Any company that has it's entire reputation at stake. Could you imagine anyone EVER trusting Anthem again if they backed away from D2 production before making it right?


Honestly Al, one would need to be very naive to believe Anthem's return figures. There are more than single digits represented here alone..... and this is only a small part of the iceberg.


Your quotations from Anthem sort of reminds me of a few years ago when Vinc marketed the Bravo D1 upscaling DVD player, which was enormously problematical. Vinc claimed a 2% failure and return rate which later turned out to really be 70%.


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Your quotations from Anthem sort of reminds me of a few years ago when Vinc marketed the Bravo D1 upscaling DVD player, which was enormously problematical. Vinc claimed a 2% failure and return rate which later turned out to really be 70%.



I too think that some if not most companies don't tell the truth about their failure rates. Integra Research for example also claimed a failure rate of 2% for the IR RDC-7.1, totally unbelievable since I myself have owned 5 RDC-7.1's and all 5 units had problems.


R


----------



## obie_fl

I believe he said a single digit failure percentage rate. Not a single digit number of units. I could almost buy into a 1 in 10 failure rate but in reality I have no idea it could be 1 in 1000 or 50 out of 100. Failure analysis based on Internet posts is deceiving at best.


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Um, what does that have to do with me? I've gotten paid the same amount for every review I've done since I started working for Secrets, even before Anthem ads were on the site. If I didn't like the D2, I would definitely say so. Advertising doesn't do me any good and my EIC never edits my reviews except for spelling and grammar.



Kris, thanks for the D2 review. I couldn't resist responding to your quote above. Please take this in a humorous light. This is not a criticism of your review at all. But, you can tease your editor about the following excerpts from your review since he/she is responsible for spelling and grammar. These were cut and pasted without additions/deletions by me. Spot the errors:



"We put the D2 through our progressive scan benchmark and the Gennum VXP did an incredible job with al of our tests."


"At this time this is the only source I have in my system that I use a component output for." [This is strictly incorrect (dangling preposition) but often accepted]


"In fact the only gripes I had was the motion artifacts present from the over compression present in the cable broadcasts."


"Anthem is the only company I know that lets you dictate what channel information goes to what output with HDMI but unfortunately they are not support the rear speakers for this."




BTW: No charge for this service.







This is caused by a malady of having debugged software programs and edited documentation for more than 4 decades. I see errors constantly, everywhere (TV, newspapers, books, etc).


I also didn't charge Anthem for my engineering survey and analysis on HDMI jacks. The jacks have now been modified. Perhaps my input had a little to do with that. My dealer jokingly threatened Anthem that they owed me a consulting fee. I guess that is why I am on to my 5th D2 with no argument from Anthem. But, it appears that they have also treated most users with D2 problems very responsibly. For me, they have continued to be very responsive. Just hoping the next unit does the trick. I am sure that I have the record for D2 replacements. Hopefully the odds of this situation repeating are astronomical.


----------



## obie_fl

Speaking of modified HDMI jacks does anyone have pictures?


----------



## Docray1

So if the quality/reliability of the D2 isnt what it should be, are there ANY other options out there for another prepro with similar features that is any better right now?


----------



## Razvanel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Docray1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So if the quality/reliability of the D2 isnt what it should be, are there ANY other options out there for another prepro with similar features that is any better right now?



No.


R


----------



## obie_fl

Docray1 - That is what I have been trying to say it has no peers at this point. There are a few other Pre/Pros that process HDMI audio but none with a video scaler like the Gennum.


----------



## Docray1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Docray1 - That is what I have been trying to say it has no peers at this point. There are a few other Pre/Pros that process HDMI audio but none with a video scaler like the Gennum.



Well, it would seem to me then that early adopters should be willing to accept a slightly higher failure rate than normal since this product clearly represents state-of-the-art technology. The same thing occurs with cars, PC's and other technology products- witness what is happening with the hi-def DVD players! If customers are unwilling to accept this, they should look elsewhere or wait until some of the issues are worked out. From what I can tell, Anthem seems to be updating software regularly to address concerns; that is a good sign at least!


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Speaking of modified HDMI jacks does anyone have pictures?



Rather hard to take meaningful pictures of these. But the following information should clarify things.



The "new" jacks look like these:

http://akamai.globalsources.com.edge...1002335048.pdf 


There are clips at bottom and sides as well as top(biased to one side).


The "old" jacks had clips at bottom only (it is possible there were some on the sides, I don't remember seeing them). You can peer in there with a flashlight and check it out.


Old jacks are like these:

http://www.globalsources.com/gsol/I/...1001945314.htm 


There are all kinds of variations on a theme with the internal clips. The salient point I think is that the clips should be relatively symmetric top/bottom and side/side to allow the male connector to "float" around the female wafer without causing undue loads one way or the other. The initial D2 jack with no upper clips, I believe allowed the male connector to "push upward" and asymmetrically load the underside(even numbered) pins. In fact my damaged pins were on the underside only.


The new jacks have "opposing" upper clips. But, the design chosen is still asymmetric with the upper clips biased to one side. Personally, I would have chosen one of the other alternatives that are completely symmetric. But, perhaps this changed design is sufficient to reduce potential HDMI jack damage.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Docray1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, it would seem to me then that early adopters should be willing to accept a slightly higher failure rate than normal since this product clearly represents state-of-the-art technology. The same thing occurs with cars, PC's and other technology products- witness what is happening with the hi-def DVD players! If customers are unwilling to accept this, they should look elsewhere or wait until some of the issues are worked out. From what I can tell, Anthem seems to be updating software regularly to address concerns; that is a good sign at least!



Well said and what I've been alluding to all along. I don't think everyone shares that view. It is not unreasonable to expect a working model, but just don't expect it to be without a high degree of maintenance and not have any growing pains at this stage of its life.


----------



## obie_fl

Thanks nkb that link to the new connector shows what you are talking about perfectly.


----------



## Monty Williams




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well said and what I've been alluding to all along. I don't think everyone shares that view. It is not unreasonable to expect a working model, but just don't expect it to be without a high degree of maintenance and not have any growing pains at this stage of its life.



I agree with what you're saying overall, and I am thankful that my D2 appears to be working flawlessly over the course of the ~week that I've owned it. It's alot easier to overlook the 'early adopter' quirks of a $500 HD DVD player than it is a $6700 MSRP processor.


----------



## obie_fl

Monty - As the owner of both those devices I know exactly what you mean. I really sympathize with those who are on their third and fourth device it has got to be frustrating. It makes me wonder if it is because of the level of Q/A by Anthem, or more just HDMI related in general. I personally would not give Anthem a third chance if the first two failed but I guess I was lucky and mine worked correctly the first time.


If Anthem really hasn't made any changes to the production models it just doesn't make sense that some of us are basically plug and play and everything works. It may be something as simple as the connectors types on the cables people are using, I'm actually using a DVI/HDMI adapter on my D2 output. I will eventually replace it and I'm also thinking of downgrading my source cable from 24AWG cables to these el cheapo 28AWG cables just to relieve some of the strain on the fragile connectors. So much of HDMI/HDCP is black magic but I've never had HDCP problems with my previous scaler and displays. Which makes me wonder if the big culprit is really the displays out there.


----------



## LEVESQUE

Every D2 owner should go read a little bit, just for fun, in the video processors section of AVS. ALL the new high-end video scalers are full of problems with HDMI, HDCP, and sound issues over HDMI. Algolith Dragonfly, DVDO IScan VP30, Crystalio II, Vantage HD...


All of those are using the latest cutting-edge chips on the market (Realta HQV, Gennum VXP) and ALL of those are having problems with incompabilties and hardware failures, broken connectors, users using cheap cables and breaking the connectors.... It's the nature of the beast. Video scalers and HDMI are a crazy puzzle for manufacturers, and alot of those are simply not fallowing specs like they should and simply don't care.


And this is giving major headaches to all the serious manufacturers like DVDO and Anthem for example. They have to fix other people's problems...


Alot of receivers are simply HDMI switchers. Really easy to do. Alot of set top boxes only talk to TVs and few other things. But a t least Anthem are not hiding the HDMI repeater setting! (like others do...).


----------



## wingnut4772

I think that is is really unacceptable to expect bugs even if you are an early adopter on a $6700 piece of equipment. If my friends knew how much I spent on my HT gear they would lock me away.


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the very detailed review Kris, even though i own a D2, i enjoyed it. One question for you though...
> 
> 
> In the review you mentioned that you had an Benq 8720 on hand to test colorspaces. Were you able to pass btb and wtw when using 4:2:2 to the Benq?
> 
> 
> An installer on another thread mentioned that the Benq wont pass these tests with 422 due to a limitation with its HDMI receiver chip, you need to use 444 or RGB. Ive been sending RGB to my 8720 based on this info but was then disappointed to find that the D2 is only processing in 8-bit by me doing so. Can you confirm this same clipping behavior with the 8720 and D2 using 422?



4:2:2 won't work with the BenQ either. Sorry.


You can send 4:4:4 out of the D2 to the BenQ though and it should work just fine.


----------



## gostan

Now that Anthem is apparently changing the hdmi connectors - I wonder how many D2/AVM 50 owners have not had any issues with the original hdmi connectors?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think that is is really unacceptable to expect bugs even if you are an early adopter on a $6700 piece of equipment. If my friends knew how much I spent on my HT gear they would lock me away.



I agree in principle but in practice if you are on the bleeding edge it is often times just not realistic. I do however expect Anthem to do everything in their power to make it right at these price levels. As I said earlier if I had multiple failures I would have demanded my money back ASAP.


The other big issue I have is how do you classify a bug? Say Toshiba releases firmware that doesn't work correctly with the Anthem . If Anthem provides a workaround in their software to fix the Toshiba problem who is at fault here? I feel I will get much better support out of Anthem then either Toshiba, Pioneer, or Scientific Atlanta and my cable company.


Levesque is correct about processors constantly changing and evolving. My previous scaler, (HDLeeza) still has occasional firmware updates and it has been out for several years now.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now that Anthem is apparently changing the hdmi connectors - I wonder how many D2/AVM 50 owners have not had any issues with the original hdmi connectors?



No connector problems here so far.


----------



## lchurch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think that is is really unacceptable to expect bugs even if you are an early adopter on a $6700 piece of equipment. If my friends knew how much I spent on my HT gear they would lock me away.



I've been in the technology business for over 30 years and have shipped products ranging in price from $10,000 to $8,000,000. I have *never* seen a product ship that was defect free.


In every case, we put lots of effort in to find and correct bugs (I never worked for a company who thought it was OK to let your customers do your QA). It is simply cheaper to find and correct bugs in your shop that to correct bugs after a product ships -- that's monetarily and customer satisfaction (you can lose more customers by word of mouth than you can gain by word of mouth).


I was also involved in meetings (some not so friendly) where it was decided what defects we *could* ship with and (in spite of the schedule) what had to be fixed before we would allow it to be shipped.


I've done hardware and software QA and have never been over ruled by a VP (some were not happy, but never over ruled).


larry


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lchurch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been in the technology business for over 30 years and have shipped products ranging in price from $10,000 to $8,000,000. I have *never* seen a product ship that was defect free.
> 
> larry




8,000,000.!?


----------



## lchurch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 8,000,000.!?



Yep, That was eight *million* dollars! And there were bugs when we shipped that puppy. None of which were "show stoppers." As I recall most were fairly minor. We had an R&D IC fab facility on site, so we could turn a chip change around in days (and at great cost, too). That was a fun project, we could always trade $$$ for performance. Talk about a kid in a candy store!


It was like giving John Force the keys to the bank and telling him to build a fast car!



larry


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now that Anthem is apparently changing the hdmi connectors - I wonder how many D2/AVM 50 owners have not had any issues with the original hdmi connectors?



AVM-50 here-- no problems with the original connectors. I wish I could say the same about my Motorola DCT-3412.



As far as bug-free CE devices go, like I've said before, the days of defect-free CE devices are long gone. They actually never existed in the first place, but the Internet has given us a new avenue in the last 15 years to coordinate our bug tracking level and consolidation.


Even in the Six Sigma world, I'm actually quite amazed Anthem is providing such a complex CE device with such a low defect level.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 4:2:2 won't work with the BenQ either. Sorry.
> 
> 
> You can send 4:4:4 out of the D2 to the BenQ though and it should work just fine.



Bummer, so i'm stuck with 8 bit processing then?


----------



## Kris Deering

Yep, but most sources are 8 bit as well, so at the end of the day you are not losing too much. The BenQ has 8 bit panel drivers too I think, which means you wouldn't have seen a big difference anyways. If the display has better than 8 bit panel drivers and luma/gamma processing, then feeding it a higher rate would be ideal, but in this case it may or may not have made a big difference.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep, but most sources are 8 bit as well, so at the end of the day you are not losing too much. The BenQ has 8 bit panel drivers too I think, which means you wouldn't have seen a big difference anyways. If the display has better than 8 bit panel drivers and luma/gamma processing, then feeding it a higher rate would be ideal, but in this case it may or may not have made a big difference.



Thanks, youd recommend 444 instead of sending RGB from the D2?


----------



## wingnut4772

Does t 'Auto' setting an the digital audio make a difference whether it is turned on or off on SD DVDs in 6 channel mode via HDMI? I was watching an SD movie last night on my Toshiba HD A1 in 6 channel mode with PLIIX and it sounded really bloated and veiled. Not the same crystal clear audio I have been excited about so far...? I am trying to figure out what happened but all my settings appear to be in order...?


----------



## obie_fl

Which "Auto" setting? There are several on the D2 and A1. I have issues with the A1/D2 combo on HD DVDs where 2-channel soundtracks do not get automatically mapped correctly. I've made several posts above but no one else seems to have this issue.


What did the D2 indicate for input when you had the problem? Did you go into the D2s menu by chance? I suspect you may have been listening to processed 2-channel and not the 5.1 track. I don't play SD DVD in the A1 but will have to check and see if my issue shows up there too.


Here is my issue:


- Start playback of HD DVD

- Opening trailer plays in 6-channel.

- Main Menu does not switch to 2-channel; D2 indicates 6-channel 96K and I'm missing the sound from the mains.

- If I immediately start the feature all is well, full 6-channel at 96K.

- If I try to view any of the extras I get no sound and the D2 remains in 6-channel 96K.

- If I go into the input menu and then immediately exit out I am now stuck in 2-channel and the main menu and extras work.

- If I play the main feature at this point it remains in 2-channel 48K with the other channels missing (No dialog).

- To restore 6-channel I have to stop and restart the disc.


----------



## THX Mode

Yes, this is my question as well.


I have my HDX-A1 connected to my D2 via HDMI


On the Anthem: HDMI is mapped to Auto


On the A1 - the output Audio is bitstream


----------



## obie_fl

If you are talking about the A1 HDMI and not S/PDIF setting it should definitely be on Auto or PCM. If you have bitstream selected you will get the DD+ track re-encoded to DTS, same as if you were using the S/PDIF (optical/coax) connection.


----------



## THX Mode

Thanks much obie! I'll get that changed tonite.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> - Start playback of HD DVD
> 
> - Opening trailer plays in 6-channel.
> 
> - Main Menu does not switch to 2-channel; D2 indicates 6-channel 96K and I'm missing the sound from the mains.
> 
> - If I immediately start the feature all is well, full 6-channel at 96K.
> 
> - If I try to view any of the extras I get no sound and the D2 remains in 6-channel 96K.
> 
> - If I go into the input menu and then immediately exit out I am now stuck in 2-channel and the main menu and extras work.
> 
> - If I play the main feature at this point it remains in 2-channel 48K with the other channels missing (No dialog).
> 
> - To restore 6-channel I have to stop and restart the disc.



See my PM


----------



## obie_fl

Thanks Jerry I was beginning to think it was only me.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now that Anthem is apparently changing the hdmi connectors - I wonder how many D2/AVM 50 owners have not had any issues with the original hdmi connectors?




Greetings,


No connector problems with my AVM-50.



Regards,


----------



## wingnut4772

Has anyone else compared the D2's audio test tones with any of the popular calibration discs? I have always used my Sound and Vision DVD and I find that the D2 wants to set my surrounds about 4 db lower through its test tones than when I use the S&V disc. Before when I had my Sherwood pre, the S&V disc calibrated at about 2db higher than my Sherwood's internal test tones.


Edit: I also am getting different readings with my S&V disc when I set the D2 to 6 channel with no processing and play the tones than when I set the D2 to 6 channel with PLIIX processing. The 6 channel with no processing plays the surrounds about 3 dbs louder according to my SPL meter.


----------



## Kris Deering

The D2's internal test tones are dead on with the Dolby reference level that they are associated with. They meet the spec perfectly. The S&V test disc was done by the folks at AVIA and even they have said that the reference mark doesn't matter, only that the channels are balanced, so I would take the levels of that disc with a grain of salt.


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, youd recommend 444 instead of sending RGB from the D2?



Either one should be fine and make it so you are not clipping. Every projector converts to RGB and the Gennum does all of its processing in the RGB domain so you cut down on the amount of color space conversions you do by just outputting RGB. But the choice is yours to make.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2's internal test tones are dead on with the Dolby reference level that they are associated with. They meet the spec perfectly. The S&V test disc was done by the folks at AVIA and even they have said that the reference mark doesn't matter, only that the channels are balanced, so I would take the levels of that disc with a grain of salt.



Thank you Kris. I guess it just seemed a little low to me. Do you know why I would be getting different SPL readings from the Avia Disc when my system is set to PLIIX?



THX: Have you guys gotten as far as experimenting with the THX surround yet? Just curious if most are using it or not and what your opinions are of it and the THX EQ.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

wingnut,

So far I prefer the extra THX processing turned ON when watching movies, both in 2 channel and the various multi-channel formats, and both from TV and DVD.


I prefer the extra THX processing turned OFF for viewing other TV shows (either live or recorded on DVD) and of course for music.


So far I like Anthem's own Anthem Logic - Music mode best for music listening.


There's no hard and fast answer to which is "better" in any of this. For example there will be differences depending upon whether your surround speakers are direct or dipole. Mostly it will be personal preference. It's easy enough to experiment.


I've not tried varying any of the extra parameters that become tweakable when THX processing is turned ON.


-------------------------------------------------------------


I've got the defaults for my Comcast input (specified in the Setup menu) to have THX OFF for 2 channel and multi-channel. For my DVD input, on the other hand, I've got the defaults set to have THX ON for 2 channel and multi-channel.


If I need the other setting for any specific viewing, it's easy enough to change it temporarily with the THX button on the remote (and then the up or down arrow to toggle the setting).

--Bob


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Either one should be fine and make it so you are not clipping. Every projector converts to RGB and the Gennum does all of its processing in the RGB domain so you cut down on the amount of color space conversions you do by just outputting RGB. But the choice is yours to make.



Great, thanks for all the info!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

wingnut,

When playing multi-channel audio from a DVD or other source (as opposed to using the D2's own internal test tones), the various audio processing modes of the D2 will produce different results because they typically steer some of the audio to different speakers.


For example, some of the left and right front channel audio may be steered to the center speaker (depending on frequencies) or vice versa to help enhance dialog or widen the stereo sound stage.


Since the D2 has excellent internal test tones, your best bet is to balance your speakers using the D2's own tones.


Having done that, any differences you then measure when playing test tones from a DVD are either the result of content errors on the DVD or, more likely, audio steering done by the D2's current processing mode. If you trust your DVD, you can, then, use test tones from the DVD to get a better feel for just how the D2 is steering audio around. If you are going to tweak any of the audio mode settings on the D2, such DVD test tones may give you a better handle on just what's changing with each D2 setting change.


Also keep in mind that if you are using analog audio outputs from your DVD player, then the DVD player is decoding the DVD audio and may be doing additional processing to it depending on how you've set it up. For example, it may be doing it's own bass steering or dialog enhancement. If you are using analog audio outputs from the DVD player it is likely best to turn OFF any such processing in the DVD player and let the D2 do it instead.


Typically that means you would set your DVD player to believe all your main speakers are large (whether or not that is true), that you have a subwoofer (again whether or not that is true), and that all speakers are at the same distance from you main seating position. If the player has any special settings for audio enhancement, etc., turn those off as well.


Meanwhile, set the D2 to the Analog-DSP setting for the analog audio input. That means the D2 will process the incoming analog audio, and thus will be able to adjust things according to your ACTUAL speaker configuration and whatever audio mode you prefer.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

Thanks Bob. I just used the internal test tones of the D2 as accuracy is important.


I am experimenting with the THX Ultra 2 with my HD DVDs via HDMI and I must say the result is superb in my 7.1 set up. I thought I would NEVER stray from my trusty PLIIx but I am loving the THX.







The panning seems smoother and even though I have my room acoustically treated, I am appreciating the EQ. Now I am just playing with dipole vs mono on my Von Schweikert surrounds.


----------



## obie_fl

Just updated my Toshiba A1 to firmware 2.0 and Dolby TrueHD 5.1 now works! Still have my issue with switching between 2 and 6 channels modes though.


----------



## Monty Williams




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just updated my Toshiba A1 to firmware 2.0 and Dolby TrueHD 5.1 now works! Still have my issue with switching between 2 and 6 channels modes though.



Did the 2.0 firmware really come out today? I tried updating last night and 1.4 was still the current version.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Monty Williams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did the 2.0 firmware really come out today? I tried updating last night and 1.4 was still the current version.



Yeah..I still just see 1.4?


----------



## CycloneMike

I apologize as this is a D1 audio question and I have searched and reviewed and either have missed that this question has been asked. So here goes:


I am confused about or do not understand what the D1 is doing in a couple of instances:


QUESTION 1:

I use the flip function for changing rears to surrounds for the 6-channel analog input (I have Paradigm ADP surrounds and monopole in-wall rears and prefer the rears for SACD/DVDA playback). I did change the amp connections as indicated in the users manual. When playing a DVD-A (or SACD) I get sound out of the following surround/rear speakers under the these different settings:


ANALOG DIRECT - copy surrounds to rears on or off - Rear Only. This makes sense.


ANALOG DSP - Copy surrounds to rears off - Surrounds Only. This seems wrong. Should I not be getting the sound from my rears since I am using the flip function? I use the "None" selection for processing since I only want to make use of the crossovers and distance correction in the D1 and not add additional post-processing.


ANALOG DSP - Copy surrounds to rears on - Surrounds and Rears. This also makes sense.



QUESTION 2: I am unable to increase the reference noise level setting above +0.0. Is this normal? I am able to balance my speakers just fine within the ranges allowed for speakers, so this is not impacting the balance and this is just something that does not seem to agree with the manual.



QUESTION 3: When I change channels on my Time-Warner SA8300HD DVR I sometimes get an audible (rather loud) pop from my left front speaker. It does not always happen, but is quite annoying and I am concerned about what could cause this to happen. Any thoughts? (This did not happen with my previous pre/pro).


FYI: I do have the latest D1 software version 1.12.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## obie_fl

The Toshiba firmware is not up on the server yet. You have to download the disc image and burn it. Head over to the HD DVD player forum for the details.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mike,

In my D2, there's no problem raising the Noise Reference Level above 0.0 in the Setup / Speaker Level Calibration menu. I would assume the D1 should operate the same way. Perhaps it's an unexpected side effect of your using that "flip" function.


I've not played with the "flip" myself, so I can't help on that one.

--Bob


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just updated my Toshiba A1 to firmware 2.0 and Dolby TrueHD 5.1 now works! Still have my issue with switching between 2 and 6 channels modes though.



Is there a list of current discs that have 5.1 DTHD? Sorry if a little off-topic but i want to test it with my D2!


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a list of current discs that have 5.1 DTHD? Sorry if a little off-topic but i want to test it with my D2!



Training Day

POTO

The Perfect Storm

Constantine


----------



## LEVESQUE

I just finished listening to Training Days in Dolby TrueHD 5.1 over HDMI.


It's working baby! Toshiba HD-A1 updated firmware to 2.0 and Anthem D2 with 1.06, over HDMI 1.1.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just finished listening to Training Days in Dolby TrueHD 5.1 over HDMI.
> 
> 
> It's working baby! Toshiba HD-A1 updated firmware to 2.0 and Anthem D2 with 1.06, over HDMI 1.1.



Great. Did you ever have issues wiht BtB or WtW with the HD-A1/D2? I was passing it even before the update so i'm not sure what was fixed.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did you ever have issues wiht BtB or WtW with the HD-A1/D2?



No. I had to redo my brightness/contrast settings though with the newest Tosh firmware. That's all.


----------



## wingnut4772

I just wanted to mention that I got my new HT all done with my new Anthem D2 (finally). Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No. I had to redo my brightness/contrast settings though with the newest Tosh firmware. That's all.



Incidentally, what do you use for that? I've actually had better results with the THX optimizer patterns than Avia (i dont own DVE but probably should).


----------



## obie_fl

I'm still trying to nail down the issue I'm having with HD DVD 2-channel sources such as menues and extra featurettes.. I'm trying to see if anyone else has the issue. So have any of you Anthem/Toshiba owners actually played any of the extras on an HD DVD? If so do you automatically get sound from them? The issue also manifests itself on titles that have startup menues.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Incidentally, what do you use for that? I've actually had better results with the THX optimizer patterns than Avia (i dont own DVE but probably should).



I'm using custom made test patterns in HD (1080i).


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just wanted to mention that I got my new HT all done with my new Anthem D2 (finally). Thanks for the help guys.



WOW!!!!

That's an awesome setup you've got there wingnut









Are those the VR-4jrs

& what SVS PB-12s, two of them







?


Very nice.......


dc


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> WOW!!!!
> 
> That's an awesome setup you've got there wingnut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are those the VR-4jrs
> 
> & what SVS PB-12s, two of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> 
> Very nice.......
> 
> 
> dc



I'll second that, and very nice accoustical treatment as well!


----------



## wingnut4772

Thanks guys! One of the SVS is a PB12 Ultra/2 and the other is a Plus/2 with the new drivers. (which SVS said was ALMOST as good as the Ultra now with the new drivers.) And yep..VR4 Jrs! I love them.


Back to the D2...I switched out an HDMI cable on my SAT input and it seems that has fixed the brightness variation so far. My old Monster HDMI was a bit bent I see so now that would make me a problem free D2 owner. Now I am just playing with surround modes to see which I prefer.


----------



## LEVESQUE

Very nice system wingnut4772!










But with an awesome set-up like that, you need a good 1080p projector and a screen over 8' wide!


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Very nice system wingnut4772!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But with an awesome set-up like that, you need a good 1080p projector and a screen over 8' wide!




Thanks. I thought about that but there is too much natural light in that room during the day and the farthest I can sit from the screen is 11 feet . I am scheduled to replace this set due to a defect...maybe I will get the 71" instead. I am just worried it will be too big for 11 feet.



NAH! This is perfect for now.


----------



## wingnut4772

I also wanted to add that the D2 in 6.0 with THX Ultra Cinema 2 sounds simply marvelous with my Fifth Element Superbit DVD. I have never heard it sound so good.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. I thought about that but there is too much natural light in that room during the day and the farthest I can sit from the screen is 11 feet . I am scheduled to replace this set due to a defect...maybe I will get the 71" instead. I am just worried it will be too big for 11 feet.
> 
> 
> 
> NAH! This is perfect for now.



You've got plenty of "growth potential" at 11'. I've have a 100" 16x9 screen at 12' viewing distance that seems just right. We could probably increase that to 110 without being too big. The rule of thumb, so I am lead to understand, for optimum "suspension of disbelief" is to have the screen big enough so that one needs to move one's eyes side to side, but not one's head.


You've REALLY got to be a bass lover.... I have a PB12.3 plus2 in a 20 by 20 room with an attached kitchen and open to a hallway 2 story atrium....and it blows us away without bottoming.... and you have over twice that!!!!..awesome


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You've got plenty of "growth potential" at 11'. I've have a 100" 16x9 screen at 12' viewing distance that seems just right. We could probably increase that to 110 without being too big. The rule of thumb, so I am lead to understand, for optimum "suspension of disbelief" is to have the screen big enough so that one needs to move one's eyes side to side, but not one's head.
> 
> 
> You've REALLY got to be a bass lover.... I have a PB12.3 plus2 in a 20 by 20 room with an attached kitchen and open to a hallway 2 story atrium....and it blows us away without bottoming.... and you have over twice that!!!!..awesome



Well..if I ever do anything else down the line I will consider a projector but it will have to be bright. My bass is only calibrated about 4db hot bit its nice and even. Plus two just looked cooler.


----------



## obie_fl

I have a single PB12.1 plus2 (that reminds me I have to install the 12.3 drivers sitting in the box)







. My gain on the sub is calibrated at about 1/4, in other word goobs of headroom left. I was listening to the Training Day TrueHD track earlier and some of the LFE in there is amazing. I couldn't imagine two of these monsters in a room like mine. Granted my room is sealed and treated but I think two might be over kill. On the other hand overkill is good.










So back on topic a bit has anyone played any HD DVD extra featurettes or commentary tracks with the D2 yet?


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also wanted to add that the D2 in 6.0 with THX Ultra Cinema 2 sounds simply marvelous with my Fifth Element Superbit DVD. I have never heard it sound so good.



Very Nice!


Do you use "DPL IIx+THX' to get the back channel or just the "THX Ultra 2 Cinema" I guess the only difference between the 2 being whats is creating the surround back channels, THX ASA or DPL IIx...


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Very Nice!
> 
> 
> Do you use "DPL IIx+THX' to get the back channel or just the "THX Ultra 2 Cinema" I guess the only difference between the 2 being whats is creating the surround back channels, THX ASA or DPL IIx...




I am using just the THX Ultra 2 Cinema. the biggest difference I have noticed is that my rear surrounds blend in much much better. I have my Von Schweikert surrounds on direct rather than dipole though. I just prefer it - but I believe the THX is ideally used with a dipole setting.


----------



## sudden

I have a bit of a problem in setting up everything, as I want to connect the D2 to both my TV and my Sony Ruby via HDMI. The D2 has only 1 HDMI out, so I assume I need a splitter of some kind. Dont want something that'll require me to push buttons, but rather something that sends the signal to both at the same time.


To make things more complicated, the TV is a 1080i Toshiba, and the projector is 1080p. The projector also has to use a 50 foot fiber HDMI due to the distance (but this shouldn't complicate this problem I guess).


What's my best option for solving this?


Daniel


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sudden* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a bit of a problem in setting up everything, as I want to connect the D2 to both my TV and my Sony Ruby via HDMI. The D2 has only 1 HDMI out, so I assume I need a splitter of some kind. Dont want something that'll require me to push buttons, but rather something that sends the signal to both at the same time.
> 
> 
> Daniel



Unfortunatly, HDCP and it's related HDMI handshakig issues woun't allow that to happen. I have the same issue...and I wind up having to unplug and replug for each to work when I need it to work.


----------



## obie_fl

Here ya go Dtrovision 1-in 5-out HDCP Compliant HDMI Distribution Amp . Not cheap but what is in this hobby?


----------



## chas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sudden* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a bit of a problem in setting up everything, as I want to connect the D2 to both my TV and my Sony Ruby via HDMI. The D2 has only 1 HDMI out, so I assume I need a splitter of some kind. Dont want something that'll require me to push buttons, but rather something that sends the signal to both at the same time.
> 
> 
> To make things more complicated, the TV is a 1080i Toshiba, and the projector is 1080p. The projector also has to use a 50 foot fiber HDMI due to the distance (but this shouldn't complicate this problem I guess).
> 
> 
> What's my best option for solving this?
> 
> 
> Daniel



I use a Gefen 1:2 HDMI splitter ($299) to a Fujitsu plasma and the Sony Ruby. I leave the D2 on 1080i and the picture is great on both the plasma and the screen, with no handshake issues and no buttons to push. Don't know if the 50 foot distance will make a difference, though...


C.


----------



## wingnut4772

I am still a litlle confused as what the best setting is for my Pioneer 79avi even after searching this thread. I am using it for audio only no video. I turned off all of the extra processing goodies so I can let the D2 do its thing but what resolution is the best for audio only?TIA


----------



## obie_fl

I don't think many, if any of the audio settings on the 79AVi impact the HDMI output, just the analog. The only caveat I can think of is you need to have a video resolution of 1080i or 720P selected if you want to do multi-channel DVD-A. Now SACD is another story and requires analog output in which case the settings on the 79AVi will affect the output.


Do you use the Toshiba for standard DVD? If so you may want to try the 79AVi in HDMI direct at 480i into the D2 for standard DVDs as that way the Gennum gets to do all the processing.


----------



## wingnut4772

I have been using the Toshiba for SD DVDs ..I will try the Pioneer at 480i. Thanks.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I use a Gefen 1:2 HDMI splitter ($299) to a Fujitsu plasma and the Sony Ruby. I leave the D2 on 1080i and the picture is great on both the plasma and the screen, with no handshake issues and no buttons to push. Don't know if the 50 foot distance will make a difference, though...
> 
> 
> C.



Thanks...I needed that info....


----------



## Dennis Oblow

Try this one http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## abc999

I have the Avm50 and have just upgraded my A1's firmware to 2.0. My question are:


What are the proper settings in the 50 that should be set to get trueHD5.1?

Should I adjust the 5.1 setting(spk,distance,level) in the A1's setup if I have an audio output of PCM via hdmi?


Thanks


----------



## LEVESQUE

For those using the new Oppo 970HD with the D2/AVM50.


Oppo has a new firmware on their web site, and they tried it on the AVM 50 v1.06.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dennis Oblow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Try this one http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2



That monoprice link is for a switch not a splitter or distbution amp. Monoprice does list a HDMI splitter but I haven't seen it in stock yet.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> IWhat are the proper settings in the 50 that should be set to get trueHD5.1? Should I adjust the 5.1 setting(spk,distance,level) in the A1's setup if I have an audio output of PCM via hdmi?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I believe those bass management and time alignment functions are for the A1 analog only, in any case you wouldn't want to use them as the AVM-50 should be taking care of BM and TA.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those using the new Oppo 970HD with the D2/AVM50.
> 
> 
> Oppo has a new firmware on their web site, and they tried it on the AVM 50 v1.06.



Greetings,


Levesque, I have been sitting on the fence about the Oppo. I currently have a Denon 3910 which does a very decent job of deinterlacing/scaling to 720p. I would love to move to the Oppo and 480i to my AVM-50. The problem is that I have read that the Oppo may have some issues with the Anthem and that DVD Audio/SACD sound quality may be inferior.


Can you or anyone comment on what the firmware addresses and also how does the Oppo compare musically?



Regards,


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you or anyone comment on what the firmware addresses and also how does the Oppo compare musically?
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



I'll leave the question of what the FW addresses for others such as AL L I'm not able to draw comparisons since I have been running the beta firmware in my Oppo since I got it. Video wise the 480i ouput to the D2 yeilds pq that I found equal to the Samsung BDP1000(an original with the NR bug) playing Blu-ray and just slightly inferior to some of the HD DVD film based movies. I need to qualify that statement by saying that my display is a 720p projector and that a 1080p display may reveal slight additional differences.


Addressing the audio question for you. For SACD and DVDA I use a Denon 2900 which supposidly is the audio equivalent of the 3910 which replaced it. I have tried using the Oppo 970 for SACD over the HDMI and chose to stick with the Denon because by comparison the Oppo sounds compressed in the midrange and a bit bass shy. I probably will eventually run only the Oppo but thru it's analog outputs and get rid of the 2900, only because my SACD collection is small, and I don't plan on expanding it.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The problem is that I have read that the Oppo may have some issues with the Anthem



The new firmware for the Oppo was almost just for for us!







It's a firmware to solve issues with the Anthem AVM50/D2. Oppo will fix problems with other manufacturers later...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you or anyone comment on what the firmware addresses and also how does the Oppo compare musically?



My answer is simple. The Oppo 970HD is for video. Use something else for your DVD-As and SACDs.







But for video, and 480i over HDMI, it's unbelievable, particularly for the price they sell it.


----------



## obie_fl

I know Kris Deering was also very critical about the sound quality of the Oppo. Does the new firmware improve the SQ or is it strictly an operability update? Anyone have any theories as to why the SQ of DVD-A and SACD is poor when it should just be a transparent digital transport? I could understand SACD being slightly degraded by the DSD to PCM conversion but shouldn't the DVD-A playback be as good as the Pioneer 59/79 over HDMI? Is the Oppo somehow processing the DVD-A audio?


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> QUESTION 1:
> 
> I use the flip function for changing rears to surrounds for the 6-channel analog input (I have Paradigm ADP surrounds and monopole in-wall rears and prefer the rears for SACD/DVDA playback). I did change the amp connections as indicated in the users manual. When playing a DVD-A (or SACD) I get sound out of the following surround/rear speakers under the these different settings:
> 
> 
> ANALOG DIRECT - copy surrounds to rears on or off - Rear Only. This makes sense.
> 
> 
> ANALOG DSP - Copy surrounds to rears off - Surrounds Only. This seems wrong. Should I not be getting the sound from my rears since I am using the flip function? I use the "None" selection for processing since I only want to make use of the crossovers and distance correction in the D1 and not add additional post-processing.
> 
> 
> ANALOG DSP - Copy surrounds to rears on - Surrounds and Rears. This also makes sense.
> 
> 
> FYI: I do have the latest D1 software version 1.12.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



More information: I experimented with the "ANALOG DSP" setting on the D1 last night when using the 6-CH input. Here is what I found (reverse suurounds/rears on, copy surrounds to rears off, "none" mode (THX off) used in the setup menu):


When switching from another input to the 6-CH input the sound comes from the surrounds.


1. If I hit the "THX" button and scroll to "THX Surround EX" and back to "THX off" the sound switches to both surrounds and rears and then back to surrounds.

2. If I hit the "THX" button and scroll to "THX Cinima" and back to "THX off" the sound first stays at the surrounds and then switches to the rears!

3. If I input the 3-key sequence (THX,1,0) after switching from another source, the sound stays in the surrounds.

4. If I input the following 3-key sequences then input the THX,1,0 sequence the sound swithces to both then goes back to the surrounds: THX,1,4; THX,1,6; THX,1,7; THX,1,8; THX,1,9, THX,2,0; THX,2,1. Note that all of these modes are "EX" type modes.

5. If I input the following 3-key sequences then input the THX,1,0 sequence the sound stays in the surrounds then swithces to the rears: THX,1,1; THX,1,2; THX,1,3; THX,1,5. Note that all of these modes are 5.1, not "EX" type modes.

6. If I leave the default mode for the 6-CH input to "None" and switch back to another source and then to 6-CH it does not matter what mode setting the other source is the sound will then come from the surrounds, even if I had adjusted it to come from the rears in the 6-CH input before changing back and forth.


It seems as if there is a glitch in the programming that needs to be addressed. In order to overcome this I have set the default mode for 6-CH to "THX Cinema" then I hit "THX,1,0" when I go to 6-CH mode which will put the surrounds in the rears. I will program this into my remote macro until Anthem can come up with a software update to cure the problem, or maybe my unit is just wacky!


Mike


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The new firmware for the Oppo was almost just for for us!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a firmware to solve issues with the Anthem AVM50/D2. Oppo will fix problems with other manufacturers later...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My answer is simple. The Oppo 970HD is for video. Use something else for your DVD-As and SACDs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But for video, and 480i over HDMI, it's unbelievable, particularly for the price they sell it.




Is this the beta 3A-0824. I would post a link to help folks out but I would like to know if this is the firmware in question.


Any word on Anthem updates?


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone have any theories as to why the SQ of DVD-A and SACD is poor when it should just be a transparent digital transport?



I've been studing this "phenominon" with various machines for the past few months since I got my Benchmark DAC.


That answer is both simple and complex at the same time. The simple part: there really is no such thing as a transparent digital transport!!!! Every machine adds, alters or diminishes the digital signal in some manner. The complex part is why: There are a multitude of reasons, alot of them I am yet to understand suffiently to explain having to do with reclocking, jitter, error correction and the nature of the recorded data on a cd disc itself. There is a post I saw somewhere here on AVS that explained it well, except I can't seem to find it anymore.


----------



## LEVESQUE

After listening to POTO, Training Day and now Constantine with my Toshiba HD-DVD player, I can now say that having the ability to hear Dolby TrueHD 5.1 tracks fed over HDMI into the D2, entirely in the digital domain (with no additional D/A and A/D conversion) is absolutely amazing.


Constantine particularly was truly amazing with the Dolby TrueHD 5.1 track in my room. I can now finally appreciate those HD films fully and like they should, because of the D2 and my 1080p projector.


I was sitting in my dedicated HT with a big smile this morning, and couldn't believe I was now really experimentating HD like it should, with a 1080p projector and a Dolby TrueHD 5.1 track.


Who could have beleive that only 1 year ago? Men, those are great days for us videophiles/audiophiles.


----------



## DrJRapp

Al


Is it my imagination or did 2.0 reduce the audio output of the A1? I seem to have to crank POTO even higher than I remember to get to listenable levels. I myself don't find all that much difference in overall sq between the two tracks...at least for that movie.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After listening to POTO, Training Day and now Constantine with my Toshiba HD-DVD player, I can now say that having the ability to hear Dolby TrueHD 5.1 tracks fed over HDMI into the D2, entirely in the digital domain (with no additional D/A and A/D conversion) is absolutely amazing.



Sigh... If only they could catch up and start doing the upgrades. I guess I could sell the D1 and buy a D2







I have both the Samsung and Toshiba, and would buy the Oppo if I could get a D2 (limping along with a mono-price switcher for now).


----------



## wingnut4772

I picked up a super long ethernet cable and Constantine today. I look forward to hearing the True HD.

Levesque, can you articulate the difference that you heard vs the Dobly Plus and True HD?


----------



## yatchaks

The new firmware for the Oppo 970 states..


When the HDMI output is connected to an A/V receiver or audio processor with HDMI v1.1 or above specifications, please use the following settings:


Speaker Setup Page:

Down-mix: 5.1 CH

Front Speaker: Large

Center Speaker: Large

Rear Speaker: Large

Subwoofer: On

Audio Setup Page:

Digital Output: Raw

HDMI Audio: Auto

With the above settings, the DVD player will send CD, Dolby Digital and DTS audio signals as raw bit streams to the receiver for decoding. For high resolution stereo or multi-channel audio contents such as DVD-Audio and Super Audio CD, the DVD player will send multi-channel PCM audio signals with the highest available sample frequency and bit numbers to the receiver. Depending on the original audio content, the format could be 44.1kHz - 192kHz, 2 - 6 channels. Setting all speakers to "Large" allows bass management to be handled by the receiver or audio processor.


This seems to contradict earlier thoughts using these particular settings. However, since the firmware is now different, I assume this would be the correct settings.


Do you agree with the above?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

yatchaks,

That's certainly what you would LIKE the Oppo to do when connected to the D2, and the settings they instruct you to use all make sense.


As they describe it, the Oppo will pass the normal audio formats -- UNDECODED -- to the D2 for decoding, but will decode the exotic audio formats itself and send them as a multi-channel digital audio stream (PCM). The suggested speaker settings should keep the Oppo from doing any bass (or other) steering when decoding these exotic formats, so that what comes out should be the unaltered digital stream as decoded in the Oppo for each audio channel. For the normal audio formats -- output as UNdecoded digital bit streams -- the speaker settings should be irrelevant.


Presumably the HDMI Audio "Auto" setting makes the Oppo switch automatically between the two styles of output.


Meanwhile the D2 will automatically sense that it is receiving a bitstream that needs decoding or an already decoded, multi-channel digital PCM stream. In either case the D2 will adjust the signal automatically for your actual speaker configuration and distances as previously specified in the D2's Setup menu.


So if the new Oppo firmware actually works as described, this should indeed be your best audio configuration.

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks

Bob,


Your post is much appreciated. Thank you.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Regarding my query on the Oppo's playback ability of DVD Audio/SACD I may have found another option.


To restate: I currently have a Denon 3910 which I have set to output 720p which is the native rate of my Sony VPL-HS51a front projector. This is passed through the AVM-50 directly to the projector. The Denon does a very good job of deinterlacing/scaling however I would like the AVM-50/Gennum to handle it via a 480i HDMI signal.


I have been sitting on the fence about the Oppo due to some of the issues related to it and the Anthem. On top of that I use the Denon for DVD Audio/SACD playback and am very happy with it in this regard. I am fearful that the Oppo will not have the same playback ability especially for SACD. DVD audio should hopefully be fine as it is passed through to the Anthem. SACD would be converted from DSD to PCM in the Oppo.


I also have in my rack a Sony DVP-CX995V 400 disc DVD/SACD Jukebox. I connected it and the Anthem via 5.1 analog and popped in some SACD's. The Sony does a very good job of SACD playback. I could simply utilize the 995 for SACD and the Oppo for DVD Audio/DVD.


The only reason this is even an issue is that I currently have 3 DVD players in my rack. The Denon, Sony and Toshiba HD-A1. I would prefer not to add another one not to mention the fact that I would like to add a player capable of 480i via HDMI.


Thoughts?



Regards,


----------



## yatchaks

Ralph,


I wish I could answer your question since we both have the AVM-50 and I do have the Oppo. However, I don't own any DVD-A/SACD.


I do believe you will be very pleased with the 480i playback. I don't know if this alone is worth owning a fourth DVD player.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Yatchaks, thanks. Actually I would sell the 3910 if the Oppo can fill for DVD Audio/DVD playback. I am trying to avoid having to add a forth player to my setup.


I will be ordering the Oppo tomorrow and will report back once I have it up and running.



Regards,


----------



## obie_fl

Well....I may have to join the ranks of those with a D2 hardware issue.










Spent the whole day troubleshooting and I'm pretty frustrated right now. My issue is only with 5.1 96K PCM over HDMI. Basically that means HD DVD and DVD-A. It started as just HD DVDs not properly switching between 2.0 and 5.1. Now even when 5.1 is detected I get no sound from the Mains just the center and surrounds. To make matters worse I can duplicate this with my Pioneer 79AVi with 5.1 DVD-A.


I've done several factory resets and even rolled back the D2 firmware but the symptoms don't change. I was really hoping this was going to be a Toshiba issue but now I can reproduce it with the Pioneer too. Well at least I had everything working for a few weeks.


----------



## DreamCatcher

2 weeks and you're complaining










Has any D2 owners here tried it with the Oppo 970?

Well I should say tried it successfully........


dc


----------



## DrJRapp

sorry to hear than nothing cures that Obie.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> sorry to hear than nothing cures that Obie.



Greetings,


Yeah I am sorry to hear that as well. Keep us posted.



Regards,


----------



## obie_fl

The frustrating part is everything else including the video is working very well. It is just Hi-Res multi-channel audio (HD DVD & DVD-A) that is acting up. I thought for sure my problem child would be the 8300 HD DVR cable box but it is working flawlessly at this point. I can still use HD DVD via bitstream (DTS) and DVD-A via analog 5.1 but that kind of defeats the purpose of the D2


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has any D2 owners here tried it with the Oppo 970?
> 
> Well I should say tried it successfully........



Working good for me. I was listening to V for Vendetta yesterday with the new Oppo firmware, and also to some DVD-As and SACDs w/o any problems.


The D2 is also working great with the new firmware 2.0 for the Toshiba HD-DVD HD-A1.


But alot of high-end scalers (Lumagen, etc) paired with Sony Rubys are now having problems with the new Toshiba firmware. But no problem with my D2 and my Ruby.










HDMI/HDCP incompatibilities is again the culprit for those high-end scalers. Just like the D2 is also having some problems with HDMI and HDCP. Nothing different.


----------



## obie_fl

What makes my issue so frustrating is that I know it can work because it use to. I really thought it was the Toshiba updates but no one else was reporting the problems and then this past weekend it appeared to get worse and now I can duplicate it on the Pioneer. HDCP has never given me any problems as my video always worked even with the 1.0 firmware.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Obie,


I feel your pain...I am going to retest 5.1 PCM audio over HDMI from my Pioneer 79avi to the D2 with several DVD-A's today. I now have 1.06 installed finally, and your post is making me wonder if multichannel audio over HDMI works anymore. Did you say you also had a 79avi???


-Brian


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Working good for me. I was listening to V for Vendetta yesterday with the new Oppo firmware, and also to some DVD-As and SACDs w/o any problems.
> 
> 
> The D2 is also working great with the new firmware 2.0 for the Toshiba HD-DVD HD-A1.
> 
> 
> But alot of high-end scalers (Lumagen, etc) paired with Sony Rubys are now having problems with the new Toshiba firmware. But no problem with my D2 and my Ruby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HDMI/HDCP incompatibilities is again the culprit for those high-end scalers. Just like the D2 is also having some problems with HDMI and HDCP. Nothing different.



Also favorable on Tosh HD-DVD 2.0 with a JVC HD2K (still a clunky piece of ... though







)


Can you post the Oppo firmware version, sorry if I missed it?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

obie,

This could be a bandwidth problem caused by a flakey or too long HDMI cable. The HDMI electronics at either end may have decided it is bandwidth limited for some reason and that is affecting the audio setup.


In addition, the audio setup over HDMI is a separate handshake after the HDCP handshake is established. So doing something to alter the timing there might help isolate the problem. For example, try changing the Repeater = Yes/No setting in the D2 Setup for those two inputs. And although the Toshiba won't let you re-do the handshake without restarting, your other player likely will. So when the problem occurs with the other player, try switching the D2 away from that input and back again to see if the new handshake cures the problem.


Another experiment to try is to set Repeater=No and try this audio stuff with your display TURNED OFF. I've seen at least one form of HDMI/HDCP failure from my Comcast box that only happens if the display is also powered on.


All of this is just to gather more evidence as to what's going on here.

--Bob


----------



## THX Mode

Hey Guys,


I had posted this over in the HD-DVD area - thought some of you may be seeing this issue as well:



> Quote:
> So it looks like the HDMI 'chain' needs to be complete now ... meaning 'all' HDMI attached devices have to be 'ON' to play CD's when HDX-A1 is connected solely via HDMI cable to my preamp.
> 
> 
> This totally sucks as I have to turn my projector on - to get sound going from the HDX ... (and I highly doubt I'll be using this as my 'all' player now - as bulbs are kinda pricey)
> 
> 
> This used to work fine in 1.2 and 1.4 revs ... sigh... now I've gone back to using my Marantz DV8400 as the 'secondary' player.



I see my D2 light up a couple of times during the handshake process - then it locks in as it should, but then no sound until I turn the projector on - when I see 'needs HDCP compliant source' - flash across the D2 display.


They've mentioned a couple of options in the HD-DVD area - but I was wondering if there was something else I could try in the D2 input settings alternatively?


../TC


----------



## Bob Pariseau

THX Mode,

Try setting HDMI Repeater = NO in the D2's Setup / Source Setup Presets menu for the input you are using for the HD/DVD player. Essentially this causes the D2 to pretend that there's an HDCP compliant display directly connected to the player.


When you turn off your display or switch to that input with the display already off, there will be an HDMI handshake with the HD/DVD player and it should just work. When you turn on your display, the D2 won't lie about whether or not the display is HDCP compliant, but presuming it is, there will be a new handshake and that too will work.

--Bob


----------



## THX Mode

Thanks Bob,


I'll give that a shot!


../TC


----------



## obie_fl

I've played extensively with the HDMI repeater On/Off, it has exactly the effect I would expect on the Pioneer 79AVi. This player will "play" audio no matter what unless I have the Repeater On and the Display Off which makes sense to me. In fact if Repeater is Off I can actually turn the display Off and the audio will be re-aquired and you get the HDMI video muted message. I would think if Repeater is Off then the longer cable to the display wouldn't come into play, but who knows?


I've always had video and audio no matter what I set the repeater to, it never seemed to impact me one way or the other. What bothers me is nothing in my system has changed except the firmware on the D2 and the Toshiba, nothing on the Pioneer has changed and it used to work.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

obie,

I too had a situation where a screwup by one source device (my Comcast) left things in a state when a different source device (my 59avi) stopped working over HDMI. In that case I could fix the 59avi connection by switching the D2 to a non-HDMI input and then back to the 59avi. [This was a hard HDCP failure, however, not just an audio format recognition problem.]


But the same shuffle didn't fix the Comcast, and if I shuffled between the Comcast and the 59avi the 59avi would also stop working.


This particular failure was one that feels like a heat related issue in the D2, in that I could cure the situation by powering off the D2 for an hour. I've also had no repeats of this failure mode since I put a largeish fan behind the D2 and then removed the fan but moved the D2 to a double height space with more cooling space above it.


In any event, it sounds like you need a new HDMI board in your D2.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan

OBIE,


OK, so I spent about 3 hours this afternoon doing further testing with my D2 running 1.06 and my Pioneer 79avi in the area of multichannel audio over HDMI.


First off, let me say that my normal setting for the last 6 months that I've had the Pio and D2 is simply to send 480i over HDMI to the D2, to let the D2 perform the video processing. This has worked great, video quality is superb, and running 1080i out from the D2 to my Qualia 006; when watching a DVD video, the audio is often Dolby Digital 5.1 or sometimes DTS, etc. and also works great, sounds great, getting the most functionality out of the D2, all is right in the world, blah blah blah.


However, when I leave the HDMI settings on the Pio at 480i and play a DVD-A disc, the signal is succesfully sent over HDMI as Digital PCM, but it results in only 2 channel audio, front R and front L. This can be seen in the Status button menu, by toggling thru the signal inputs/outputs. No matter what I tried, including setting HDMI Repeater to No, then trying every possible order of powering on in every possible sequence the Qualia TV, the D2, the Pio79avi, no matter what I did I could not get the input to be just "DVD" and "5.1". It always defaulted to Dolby Pro Logic, and the Audio Input was always only 2 channel PCM. I also tried setting the AutoDigital setting for the DVD input on the D2 to "No", when it had always been "Yes" previously. Likewise, I tried powering on every link in the chain in every possible order, and no luck, still only 2 channel PCM.


But...when I set the Pio79avi's HDMI settings to output 1080i or 720p, suddenly the DVD-Audio discs all can play perfectly as 6-channel PCM input over HDMI. I have tried several discs including some 5.1 channel, 48KHz/24 bit audio, as well as some 5.1 channel, 96KHz/24 bit audio, as well as some DTS 96/24 audio discs, all play perfectly. Again, I tried every possible setting for the Source Setting on the D2, specifically in the AutoDigital field (Yes or No) and the HDMI Repeater field (Yes and No). This is where it gets weird, and where I was seeing the same strangeness that Obie saw. There was no consistency between the HDMI Repeater field and the working or not working of multichannel audio over HDMI. All that seemed to matter was that once the HDCP handshake occured once properly, I could play a DVD-A fine, eject and switch to another DVD-A, over to a CD, back to a different DVD-A, turn the 79avi off, then back on (hard and soft cycle), and still the multichannel audio would work. I ended up settling on HDMI Repeater set to "No", and Auto Digital set to "No". If I set AutoDigital to "Yes", the D2 would play the 5.1 channel PCM tracks fine, but the setting would read "Auto-Digital" on the display constantly, instead of syncing back to Digital as it normally does. That was annoying me, so I hard set it to AutoDigital "No". Then the display immediately locks on Digital, and says so in the Display field and on the OSD.


So, that's the positive news. It does indeed work, and it stays working, with the 79avi HDMI settings set to 1080i (or 720p), and HDMI Repeater on the D2 set to "No" and AutoDigital set to "No". It evens works after everything is powered completely off, then turned back on (in whatever sequence one performs it in). The bad news then? The bad news is that I will have to manually change back to 480i in the 79avi HDMI settings menu, each time I want to watch a DVD movie. Because I actually listen to more DVD-Audio music than I watch movies, my default config will be set to 1080i on the Pioneer, and I'll just change to 480i when I need to watch a movie. Too bad there aren't discrete codes for the resolution setting, otherwise this would be less painful.


Sorry for the lengthy description, but I thought that might help you Obie. Have you tried any of this? Let me know if this is helpful at all. This HDMI handshaking crap is definitely finicky, and you get weird results sometimes, but if you mess with it long enough, and isolate every possible combination of the relevant 3 or 4 settings, you eventually find some consistent behavior - or at least, I'm hoping you will have similar results.


Let me know what you think.

-Brian


----------



## obie_fl

The 720P/1080i requirement for multi-channel is fairly widely documented, apparently it is a part of the HDMI spec and not specific to the Anthem. I got bit by that a few weeks back and I even knew about it, but had forgotten. Mine did work up unitil this weekend.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Ahh, ok, well I feel like a complete idiot now! Didn't realize this was the case. I could swear my multichannel audio worked fine over HDMI set to 480i in an earlier D2 software, maybe one of the Beta builds. Hmmmm...ok, well, it sounds as though you have a different problem than I did. I will keep kicking it around in case I come up with anything.


----------



## obie_fl

I also think a lot of people are mis-interpeting the Auto Digital setting...Or maybe I am.










If I understand correctly this is for automatically switching between a digital and analog signal. I don't have any analog signals connected. This settings is for older cable boxes that had both digital and analog stations so it would automatically switch back and forth. I used this feature a lot on an old Denon receiver I had a few years back. I always set these to No since I have no analog connected.


----------



## obie_fl

Brian - I think the 1080i/720P requirement is buried pretty deep in the Pioneer manual but it is in there someplace. You are not the only one to get bit by that one.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Obie,


Yeah, I am clear on its use, though I agree it is prone to misinterpreting. I use many analog as well as digital connections, essentially for all 8 sources, because I have to in order to have independent sources chosen in each of Main Zone, Zone 2, Zone 3 and Record Zone. There is no way to have truly independent switching for each zone, without having analog audio as well as digital, and every possible video connection that is used for the 4 zones as well. It is a cable seller's wet dream for sure, but it does work. So, the clarification I might make for people is that the AutoDigital setting, even when using all zones like I do, is not generally needed to be set to Yes, as it *only* applies to the Main Zone. The other zones are always analog only, except for Record Zone, which can output Toslink and/or Digital RCA outputs. So, ummm, what I'm saying is "yeah, I agree with you Obie, it probably gets misinterpreted by many folks, and should generally be set to "No"...the exceptions being certain cable boxes with certain cable providers.


----------



## Ranger620

Hello,


I am having a problem updating my AVM 50. I have tried to install the 1.06 update (from 1.01) and keep getting the error message, "GF9350 uC programming failed". And now the unit will not output any video signal. Anyone else had this problem? Possible suggestions... any help would be great.


----------



## DrJRapp

What are you using to upgrade with? Many notebooks with USB>serial adapters are not fast enough to complete the transfer before the AVM50 (and D2 for that matter) time themselves out. Contact Nick at Anthem for help on how to configure your computer.


----------



## Joe C5

Also, some notebooks (I don't know about USB adapters) do not conform to the RS-232 voltage specs. While you can sometimes get away with it, I have seen many cases where it just does not work. Also, I do know there are issues with some USB adapters and certain software. In other words, if you have access to a standard PC with serial ports (harder to find these days), try it. Otherwise, go search the web for a known good USB to serial adapter (I have seen threads on this, but I can't remember the brand). Good luck...


----------



## goenkar

I did not have any luck with a USB/Serial adapter. I had to use a serial port with a DB9/DB9 cable from Radio shack. Fortunately my home computer and work laptop have a serial port. I have done the updates from both PC and laptop and both worked with serial ports.


When I did the upgrade to 1.06 I lost video too and had to reset to factory defaults to get video back. OSD would work but no video from my sources.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ranger620* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I am having a problem updating my AVM 50. I have tried to install the 1.06 update (from 1.01) and keep getting the error message, "GF9350 uC programming failed". And now the unit will not output any video signal. Anyone else had this problem? Possible suggestions... any help would be great.



I had posted this issue a while back (last July 15). When I tried to upgrade using a USB/serial adapter, I also had trouble upgrading to 1.06. I was getting the "FPGA configurator programming failed" error. I tried upgrading to 1.06 two or three times and got the same error. I also tried downgrading my firmware to 1.04 and then to 1.00, and got the same error.


I finally gave up on my USB/serial adapter, and instead used my laptop with a built in serial port. I was able to successfully upgrade to 1.06 on the first try. I suspect that it was the serial/USB adapter, but I also did other things. See my earlier post dated "7-16-06, 12:46 PM".


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also, some notebooks (I don't know about USB adapters) do not conform to the RS-232 voltage specs. While you can sometimes get away with it, I have seen many cases where it just does not work. Also, I do know there are issues with some USB adapters and certain software. In other words, if you have access to a standard PC with serial ports (harder to find these days), try it. Otherwise, go search the web for a known good USB to serial adapter (I have seen threads on this, but I can't remember the brand). Good luck...



I had problems when using my Windows approved USB/Serial adapter. I was able to upgrade successfully using my laptop's built-in serial port. Since I already have an HTPC in my home theater, I prefer not to have to setup my laptop everytime I want to save my D2 settings or upgrade the firmware. So, I purchased a serial card from SIIG. I just got it, and will see how it works.


----------



## DrJRapp

Belkin's Win XP certified 10117 USB to serial adapter works for me...but only from my desktop, not from my toshiba Notebook. Nick says that the notebook can't transmit fast enough to avoid the D2 timing out.


----------



## Ranger620




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ranger620* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I am having a problem updating my AVM 50. I have tried to install the 1.06 update (from 1.01) and keep getting the error message, "GF9350 uC programming failed". And now the unit will not output any video signal. Anyone else had this problem? Possible suggestions... any help would be great.



Thanks for the input, it was indeed the USB-Serial adaptor. Piece of junk! Worked first try on my old computer with a built in serial port.


Again, thank you!


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Ok, for those who are following my earlier posts regarding the Oppo 970HD I have had the unit for several days. I am really satisfied with it's video performance and so far have found it to be very decent ergonomically.


My real concerns were how it would handle DVD Audio when compared to the Denon 3910 it could be replacing. Well after doing some listening I can say that sound quality is with DVD Audio is very close. Close enough that I am happy with it. The Oppo will be used strictly for DVD video/audio.


Initially I had a minor issue where I could not get any audio playback without my projector being on. I remedied that by setting the Anthem to Repeater setting to 'Yes'.


Just wanted to follow up. Thanks to those who offered their input.


Regards,


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ranger620* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I am having a problem updating my AVM 50. I have tried to install the 1.06 update (from 1.01) and keep getting the error message, "GF9350 uC programming failed". And now the unit will not output any video signal. Anyone else had this problem? Possible suggestions... any help would be great.



Ranger... I see that you remedied the situation, but just for others I wanted to point out that you must have your display turned off if you are using HDMI when trying to update... I had three failedd attempts before I turned off my projector, after that no problems....


----------



## nkb

Just got my replacement D2 (number 5). Serial number 131701 if you are keeping track - apparently 163 units later than #4. The dealer delivered it and we hooked it up (carefully) and verified that it was working.


I am using HDMI out, HDMI in for DVD and SAT. Haven't tested everything yet. The main functions of the DVD and SAT input and HDMI video output are working, I am pleased to report.


However, now the setup menu is flickering and cutting in and out. Wasn't like this initially when no other inputs were hooked up. When the setup display does seem to lock on, the colors are washed out and banded. I tried different output resolutions but the situation did not change. The picture is fine for DVD and SAT. Just the Setup menu.


Any ideas what is causing this? Heat related? I note this late production model is still pretty hot. I have powered this down and am letting it sit. We'll see if it the setup display gets restored after it cools down.


While the setup display thing is annoying I could live with this if everything else continues to work.


----------



## nkb

Well, after sitting for a bit the D2 setup menu now is displayed correctly.


So far so good. Keep my fingers crossed. Everything appears to be AOK.




Back in the saddle!!



But, I don't know if I'll pull out my backup cabling quite yet.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Ok, for those who are following my earlier posts regarding the Oppo 970HD I have had the unit for several days. I am really satisfied with it's video performance and so far have found it to be very decent ergonomically.
> 
> 
> My real concerns were how it would handle DVD Audio when compared to the Denon 3910 it could be replacing. Well after doing some listening I can say that sound quality is with DVD Audio is very close. Close enough that I am happy with it. The Oppo will be used strictly for DVD video/audio.
> 
> 
> Initially I had a minor issue where I could not get any audio playback without my projector being on. I remedied that by setting the Anthem to Repeater setting to 'Yes'.
> 
> 
> Just wanted to follow up. Thanks to those who offered their input.
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,


Thats good news. I'm glad your purchase was justified. The Oppo really does do an excellent job integrating with the Anthem scaler. As a matter of fact, I just purchased a HD-A1 a couple days ago, and my wife does see the improvement, but I hyped up the HD-A1 so much, (I had to justify the purchase







) she doesn't think it's worlds better than the Oppo. Of course, I disagree. I think her short term video memory is flawed. Tonight I will show her Training day and The Perferct Storm in SD on the Oppo and HD on the Toshiba, switch between both formats, and hope to prove a point










*EDIT* The Perfect Storm is the only movie we watched so far, and I just read that this movie really is not the best for a first impression, and not a whole let better than the standard sd release. That explains things.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


I'm curious if anyone owning the Toshiba and/or Oppo, and a Motorola cable box get a green picture from the Motorola after watching a DVD and changing the source to the Motorolla box? The players are connected via HDMI and the Moto, DVI/HDMI. The only way to rid the green picture is to power toggle the Anthem. Any ideas?


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, after sitting for a bit the D2 setup menu now is displayed correctly.
> 
> 
> So far so good. Keep my fingers crossed. Everything appears to be AOK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in the saddle!!
> 
> 
> 
> But, I don't know if I'll pull out my backup cabling quite yet.




After warming up for a bit the setup menu still goes into flakey mode. Too bad. Hopefully nothing else turns flakey as I continue to "burn" this unit in.


----------



## yatchaks

I noticed this was touched on earlier in this thread, but I want to confirm I understand correctly.


Toshiba HD-A1 is connected to an AVM-50 via HDMI. In the Toshiba set up menu, I have PCM enabled, 5.1 (I am running 5.1), speaker size-large, sub-yes, did not change speaker distance nor crossover setting of 120.


In the AVM-50, I have audio in-DIG HDMI, Auto Dig-yes.


Does this sound correct? Am I missing anything? Does the HDMI connection bypass the speaker size, distance and crossover serttings in the Toshiba?


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I noticed this was touched on earlier in this thread, but I want to confirm I understand correctly.
> 
> 
> Toshiba HD-A1 is connected to an AVM-50 via HDMI. In the Toshiba set up menu, I have PCM enabled, 5.1 (I am running 5.1), speaker size-large, sub-yes, did not change speaker distance nor crossover setting of 120.
> 
> 
> In the AVM-50, I have audio in-DIG HDMI, Auto Dig-yes.
> 
> 
> Does this sound correct? Am I missing anything? Does the HDMI connection bypass the speaker size, distance and crossover serttings in the Toshiba?



Greetings,


Yatchaks, you have the set up right. I have my AVM-50 set to Auto Dig-No.



Regards,


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm curious if anyone owning the Toshiba and/or Oppo, and a Motorola cable box get a green picture from the Motorola after watching a DVD and changing the source to the Motorolla box? The players are connected via HDMI and the Moto, DVI/HDMI. The only way to rid the green picture is to power toggle the Anthem. Any ideas?



I had persistent greenscreen which was corrected by fixing the colorspace.


After that I saw it in a few components, my complcated set up of switching after the AVM and for some sources before the AVM I thought was at fault. It wasn't, it was the quality of the HDMI cables. I never thought much nkowing a 10x $ cable may be a 10% better result, but in terms of HDMI, it has proven true. Switching to Ultralink HDMI HP Pro Platinum cables made a big difference and eliminated intermittent green shifts (even better than lesser Ultralink (thin DVI-HDMI) cables).


Your mileage may vary


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Switching to Ultralink HDMI HP Pro Platinum cables made a big difference and eliminated intermittent green shifts (even better than lesser Ultralink (thin DVI-HDMI) cables).



Rudolpht.


I think you're on something here. I'm using only Ultralink HDMI HD Pro in my system also. No problems with anything.


Anthem told me that alot of the problems people are having and reporting with the D2/AVM50 are related to cheap HDMI cables, and that they don't even know it. Alot of the run-of-the-mill HDMI cables are having problems with 1080i/p.


I remember reading somewhere that William Phelps, the famous calibrator, was having alot of problems with HDMI cables and 1080i/p signals with 1080p projectors, and that only some high-end optical cables and the Ultralink HDMI Pro were free of problems. All the other "regular" HDMI cables (RAM, PacificCable, Monoprice...) were having intermittent problems with 1080i/p.


Rudolpht. After writing that, I just noticed in your signature that William Phelps did calibrate your HD2K! Funny.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rudolpht.
> 
> After writing that, I just noticed in your signature that William Phelps did calibrate your HD2K! Funny.




Actually William turned me on to the HD Pro Platinum ultralinks and even tracked some down and sold me a few. It does make a difference. I had green when I hooked in my HD-DVD player direct into the Anthem (it was actually a lower end ultralink cable, so there is an additional lesson here) and swapped it out for the HD Pro the picture looked GREAT (particularly with Anthem 1080i to 1080p processing).


Wm is a great guy by the way. My HD2K was the first calibration of that type of unit and it is simply amazing the difference he makes.


I am definitely not a cable snob, but this was advise I took and keep.


Tim


----------



## nkb

I have had my replacement D2(#5) for a day now. It works fine except once it gets hot, accessing the setup menu is a problem(flashes on and off, colors washed out).


I also experienced a couple of times when switching between HD and non HD channels on SAT that I would only have a blue screen and no audio either. Switching to another source and back to SAT cures the problem.


Looking for fan suggestions. I remember someone posted pictures a while back but I think that thread got booted off.


Experience with Zbreeze anyone? Seems a bit pricey.


----------



## jkmw

I bought this one. Cool Stack 1 by Active Thermal Management Case is now only slightly warm to the touch. Hooked it to 12v trigger. This requires opening the fan case and switching two jumpers. Hope it works for you.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually William turned me on to the HD Pro Platinum ultralinks and even tracked some down and sold me a few. It does make a difference. I had green when I hooked in my HD-DVD player direct into the Anthem (it was actually a lower end ultralink cable, so there is an additional lesson here) and swapped it out for the HD Pro the picture looked GREAT (particularly with Anthem 1080i to 1080p processing).
> 
> 
> Wm is a great guy by the way. My HD2K was the first calibration of that type of unit and it is simply amazing the difference he makes.
> 
> 
> I am definitely not a cable snob, but this was advise I took and keep.
> 
> 
> Tim



OK

How flexible is this cable


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK
> 
> How flexible is this cable



That's a hard one to answer, only because it's hard to describe. It's (searching for analogies) as flexible as about any 1/4" braided shielded cable, but comes in multiple lengths. Guessing about the same flexibility as shielded RG-59 cable to use a different cable comparison. I know there are perpendicular adaptors for tight spots.


Tim


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's a hard one to answer, only because it's hard to describe. It's (searching for analogies) as flexible as about any 1/4" braided shielded cable, but comes in multiple lengths. Guessing about the same flexibility as shielded RG-59 cable to use a different cable comparison. I know there are perpendicular adaptors for tight spots.
> 
> 
> Tim



Thank you


So the same as Blue Jeans Cable


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have had my replacement D2(#5) for a day now. It works fine except once it gets hot, accessing the setup menu is a problem(flashes on and off, colors washed out).
> 
> 
> I also experienced a couple of times when switching between HD and non HD channels on SAT that I would only have a blue screen and no audio either. Switching to another source and back to SAT cures the problem.
> 
> 
> Looking for fan suggestions. I remember someone posted pictures a while back but I think that thread got booted off.
> 
> 
> Experience with Zbreeze anyone? Seems a bit pricey.



Can you describe the environment of your D2? For example, how much open ventilation do you have around the D2, what's the ambient temperature in the room, are there other heat producing components around the D2, etc.


My D2 has a good 7" above it, and is well ventilated. It's open in the back and perforated steel to the left, right, and front. My D2 feels barely warm to the touch.


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you describe the environment of your D2? For example, how much open ventilation do you have around the D2, what's the ambient temperature in the room, are there other heat producing components around the D2, etc.
> 
> 
> My D2 has a good 7" above it, and is well ventilated. It's open in the back and perforated steel to the left, right, and front. My D2 feels barely warm to the touch.



Randman,


Fair question.


For testing, I currently have the D2 sitting in the middle of the room, no cabinet, no other heat generating equipment. Open in every direction but sitting on a hard surface. The ambient temperature is 73 F. I do not have air conditioning in that room - not really needed as it very, very rarely approaches an ambient 80. (I am in Northern California, well insulated new house, no major sunlight incursion into the room.)


Even out in the open, the D2 still gets hot and eventually the setup video degrades. If I take an external household fan and direct it on the D2, it cools down to "cool to the touch" in a couple of minutes. Then the setup video returns. Unfortunately, it is not just the setup screen. Last night after watching an SD movie from SAT for 2+ hours the video processing on 480i started producing a jittery image. HD was OK. Again directing a fan on the unit, cured the problem.


This D2 seems more sensitive to heat than its 4 predecessors (when they worked). So I definitely do not think that Anthem has made any changes/inroads on the cooling issues.


I haven't checked it scientifically but suspect that when not doing video processing that the overheating problem is not as severe.


You say your D2 is "well ventilated". Do you have forced air or just relying on convection and ample space around it? Do you have space below the unit as well, I couldn't tell from your post. Mine is just sitting on its feet on a surface.


After 5 units, there is not much to say about the "quality" and design of this unit. It is clearly thermally challenged. Your experience may vary ... but the design is just not robust.










I will get a fan and hope that the unit stays operating. Probably one of the stackable kind, as recommended.


Holding the modern day record for returned D2's at 4, I will not be going for 5.


Clearly, I remain disappointed with this whole D2 saga. Anthem has listened to me all the way through and been responsive. They have even (apparently) changed the HDMI jacks based upon my recommendations and perhaps others. BTW, I have not had any problems with the new HDMI jacks - so that is a step in the right direction.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randman,
> 
> 
> Fair question.
> 
> 
> For testing, I currently have the D2 sitting in the middle of the room, no cabinet, no other heat generating equipment. Open in every direction but sitting on a hard surface. The ambient temperature is 73 F. I do not have air conditioning in that room - not really needed as it very, very rarely approaches an ambient 80. (I am in Northern California, well insulated new house, no major sunlight incursion into the room.)
> 
> 
> Even out in the open, the D2 still gets hot and eventually the setup video degrades. If I take an external household fan and direct it on the D2, it cools down to "cool to the touch" in a couple of minutes. Then the setup video returns. Unfortunately, it is not just the setup screen. Last night after watching an SD movie from SAT for 2+ hours the video processing on 480i started producing a jittery image. HD was OK. Again directing a fan on the unit, cured the problem.
> 
> 
> This D2 seems more sensitive to heat than its 4 predecessors (when they worked). So I definitely do not think that Anthem has made any changes/inroads on the cooling issues.
> 
> 
> I haven't checked it scientifically but suspect that when not doing video processing that the overheating problem is not as severe.
> 
> 
> You say your D2 is "well ventilated". Do you have forced air or just relying on convection and ample space around it? Do you have space below the unit as well, I couldn't tell from your post. Mine is just sitting on its feet on a surface.
> 
> 
> After 5 units, there is not much to say about the "quality" and design of this unit. It is clearly thermally challenged. Your experience may vary ... but the design is just not robust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will get a fan and hope that the unit stays operating. Probably one of the stackable kind, as recommended.
> 
> 
> Holding the modern day record for returned D2's at 4, I will not be going for 5.
> 
> 
> Clearly, I remain disappointed with this whole D2 saga. Anthem has listened to me all the way through and been responsive. They have even (apparently) changed the HDMI jacks based upon my recommendations and perhaps others. BTW, I have not had any problems with the new HDMI jacks - so that is a step in the right direction.



Greetings,


nkb, I sympathize with your situation. I have been following your story and can understand your feelings. I hope that in the end your unit performs well with the added cooling and you can get to the business of enjoying it. You certainly deserve it.....



Regards,


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You say your D2 is "well ventilated". Do you have forced air or just relying on convection and ample space around it? Do you have space below the unit as well, I couldn't tell from your post. Mine is just sitting on its feet on a surface.



I rely on convection. My home has centralized A/C, and it's set at 68 degrees Fahrenheit. The D2 sits on a shelf (below the shelf are other units). There's about 7" of free space above the D2. Before purchasing my D2, I did some research on fans after reading this thread thinking that i might need one. I purchased one, but so far I haven't had to use it. I installed it anyway for extra insurance, but so far, my D2 has kept its cool.


The following are some fans that I saw while doing my research:

http://www.activethermal.com/ 


This company makes a number of interesting cooling products.

In the URL above, I purchased the COOL-IT mkII equipment cooler (haven't used it yet, but holding on to it for insurance - I may use it for an amplifier that I recently relocated from out in the open to a rack... plus, reading this thread makes me paranoid). I purchaesd the COOL-IT mkII from http://www.smarthome.com .


http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/cooling/uqfp.htm 


In the URL above, I bought the UQFP-2 from http://www.performanceaudio.com/ . This is the fan that's currently sitting behind my D2. So far, I haven't used it yet, but keep it there for insurance (just in case my A/C is off and it gets hot in the house).


Middle Atlantic and Active Thermal Management both have quite a selection of fans. Some are relatively quiet, others less so. The Middle Atlantic fan that I got is 24db, which is pretty good. I can hear it if I'm close to it, but I wouldn't be able to hear it further away, especially with my projector's fan turned on.


nkb - hope you get your D2 to work. Best of luck.


----------



## yatchaks

It just occured to me, shouldn't I be able to apply a post processing format to 5.1 material (I am running a 5.1 system) such as PLIIx movies? My AVM-50 just shows 5.1 even though PLIIx movies is selected in the set up menu. When I push mode attempting to switch, the display says "Dolby D 5.1 input none".


I have been experimenting with my new HD-A1 and this is when I noticed this. With the Toshiba, it only shows 5.1 on the active display even though I have PLIIx movies selected. After pressing mode, the display reads "6.0 channel input none" with PLIIx movies selected. I then switched to my Moto 6412 cable box, turned to several 5.1 movie channels, and get the "Dolby D 5.1 input none".


The only red light I get to the left of the display with the cable box selected is DD.


I don't get any red lights when playing the Toshiba.


Am I missing something or is this correct?


----------



## obie_fl

How is your A1 connected? HDMI, S/PDIF or analog 5.1?

What do you have the A1 setup to output? Auto, PCM, Bitstream, Downsampled PCM?


----------



## wingnut4772

Quick question. I am sure it's a setting but I am getting drop outs while playing cds on my Pioneer 79avi. I have the D2 set to HDMI in for audio with the repeater off. The pioneer is set at 1080i with none of the fancy schmancy stuff on. It occurs on all formats.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It just occured to me, shouldn't I be able to apply a post processing format to 5.1 material (I am running a 5.1 system) such as PLIIx movies? My AVM-50 just shows 5.1 even though PLIIx movies is selected in the set up menu. When I push mode attempting to switch, the display says "Dolby D 5.1 input none".
> 
> 
> I have been experimenting with my new HD-A1 and this is when I noticed this. With the Toshiba, it only shows 5.1 on the active display even though I have PLIIx movies selected. After pressing mode, the display reads "6.0 channel input none" with PLIIx movies selected. I then switched to my Moto 6412 cable box, turned to several 5.1 movie channels, and get the "Dolby D 5.1 input none".
> 
> 
> The only red light I get to the left of the display with the cable box selected is DD.
> 
> 
> I don't get any red lights when playing the Toshiba.
> 
> 
> Am I missing something or is this correct?



If you only have 5 speakers the D2 won't dp PLIIX - at least that was my experience when I was redoing my room and only had 5 for a while. As soon as I selected 7 the PLIIX showed up.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question. I am sure it's a setting but I am getting drop outs while playing cds on my Pioneer 79avi. I have the D2 set to HDMI in for audio with the repeater off. The pioneer is set at 1080i with none of the fancy schmancy stuff on. It occurs on all formats.



Its not D2

I have the same problem with my 79AVi

All CD's work fine on oppo


----------



## dsm363

I just got the Oppo DVD player (970HD I believe) and tried connection it via HDMI to HDMI 3 causing the picture to blink every 5 seconds or so. This doesn't happen on HDMI 4.

From reading some of the prior posts, it looks like I have the older style HDMI ports. From what I can tell, there doesn't appear to be any bent posts on HDMI 3 though. Has Anthem been swaping out broken HDMI ports?

Also, a simple question. I have the D2 to ouput 1080p to my new Sony SXRD TV. The picture from the Oppo looks good but am not sure if it's actually being scaled to 1080p. Is there a way to check? Thanks.


Dave


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you only have 5 speakers the D2 won't dp PLIIX - at least that was my experience when I was redoing my room and only had 5 for a while. As soon as I selected 7 the PLIIX showed up.



This is correct

PLIIX is an extension of PLII

PLII is for 5.1

where PLIIx is for 6.1 and up

if you only have 5 speakers selected PLIIx will not kick in

IF you decide to select any back speakers on D2 than PLIIx will kick in, but if you don't have speakers hooked up you will have missing sound out of surround speakers. What PLIIx does is separates sound out of surround speakers and sends it to back speaker/s which makes a complete sound

Imagine taking out your centre channel and not disabling it in D2.

that would be the same thing.

Hope this helps


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Its not D2
> 
> I have the same problem with my 79AVi
> 
> All CD's work fine on oppo




As long as I leave the TV on it seems not to be a problem. The cds play pretty smoothly and the drop outs are only a few but I think that as I experiment they are happening when my set fully powers down and at the very moment the cooling fan shuts off. I see now that it is doing it then every time...I will keep listening to see if it plays smoothly afterwards.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsm363* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got the Oppo DVD player (970HD I believe) and tried connection it via HDMI to HDMI 3 causing the picture to blink every 5 seconds or so. This doesn't happen on HDMI 4.
> 
> From reading some of the prior posts, it looks like I have the older style HDMI ports. From what I can tell, there doesn't appear to be any bent posts on HDMI 3 though. Has Anthem been swaping out broken HDMI ports?
> 
> Also, a simple question. I have the D2 to ouput 1080p to my new Sony SXRD TV. The picture from the Oppo looks good but am not sure if it's actually being scaled to 1080p. Is there a way to check? Thanks.
> 
> 
> Dave



Press number 7 on your Anthem Remote and hold it for about 5 sec go to info that will tell you your ins and outs

Did you try 1 or 2 inputs to see what happens

also what software are you running on D2


----------



## dsm363




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Press number 7 on your Anthem Remote and hold it for about 5 sec go to info that will tell you your ins and outs
> 
> Did you try 1 or 2 inputs to see what happens
> 
> also what software are you running on D2



porst 1 and 2 work fine. I've got my Sony DVD player in 1 and a DVR in 2.

Looks like my model is a early model too from the serial number.

If it does turn out to be broken, hopefully I can get it fixed.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As long as I leave the TV on it seems not to be a problem. The cds play pretty smoothly and the drop outs are only a few but I think that as I experiment they are happening when my set fully powers down and at the very moment the cooling fan shuts off. I see now that it is doing it then every time...I will keep listening to see if it plays smoothly afterwards.



This is a common thing with HDMI connectors

PIO is looking for TV/PJ to shake hands and what its seeing is D2

As per pioneer this will be corrected in their next model of DVD player (which doesn't make sense )


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsm363* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> porst 1 and 2 work fine. I've got my Sony DVD player in 1 and a DVR in 2.
> 
> Looks like my model is a early model too from the serial number.
> 
> If it does turn out to be broken, hopefully I can get it fixed.



Check with Nick,

But they still use same connectors, so unless yours is damage they will not touch the connectors.

Also what software are you running and did you try to plug in your sony DVD to 3 to see if it works?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is correct
> 
> PLIIX is an extension of PLII
> 
> PLII is for 5.1
> 
> where PLIIx is for 6.1 and up
> 
> if you only have 5 speakers selected PLIIx will not kick in
> 
> IF you decide to select any back speakers on D2 than PLIIx will kick in, but if you don't have speakers hooked up you will have missing sound out of surround speakers. What PLIIx does is separates sound out of surround speakers and sends it to back speaker/s which makes a complete sound
> 
> Imagine taking out your centre channel and not disabling it in D2.
> 
> that would be the same thing.
> 
> Hope this helps



Or just a little additional.


PLII is a digital synthesis of analog 2 channel Dolby ProLogic conversion (coded or not coded) to 5.1.


PLIIx is smart enough to use DD 5.1 as distinct 5.1 separation, and apply the synthesis to the surround back 1 or 2 channels, depending on 6 or 7 speakers.


The display analogy (which I hate when it shows up) is showing NEO:6 on DTS non-ES streams with 6 or 7 speakers. I never like NEO:6 2 channel analog conversion so I hate to see it show up on 5.1 DTS material.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As long as I leave the TV on it seems not to be a problem. The cds play pretty smoothly and the drop outs are only a few but I think that as I experiment they are happening when my set fully powers down and at the very moment the cooling fan shuts off. I see now that it is doing it then every time...I will keep listening to see if it plays smoothly afterwards.



Greetings,


Try setting the Repeater to On (Yes). This should take care fo the problem. I had the same issue with the Oppo. If my projector was on there was no problem playing DVD Audio/CD etc. If the projector was off I got nothing. Switching the Repeater from Off (No) to On (Yes) took care of it.


Regards,


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsm363* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got the Oppo DVD player (970HD I believe) and tried connection it via HDMI to HDMI 3 causing the picture to blink every 5 seconds or so. This doesn't happen on HDMI 4.
> 
> From reading some of the prior posts, it looks like I have the older style HDMI ports. From what I can tell, there doesn't appear to be any bent posts on HDMI 3 though. Has Anthem been swaping out broken HDMI ports?
> 
> Also, a simple question. I have the D2 to ouput 1080p to my new Sony SXRD TV. The picture from the Oppo looks good but am not sure if it's actually being scaled to 1080p. Is there a way to check? Thanks.
> 
> 
> Dave



Greetings,


The Oppo is sensitive to the power up sequence. Be sre that your display and the Anthem are powered up BEFORE you power on the Oppo. If you power on the Oppo first the blinking occurs. Just another suggestion.


Regards,


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Oppo is sensitive to the power up sequence. Be sre that your display and the Anthem are powered up BEFORE you power on the Oppo.



This applies to everything else also. It should always be the display first, then the D2, and then all the sources.


----------



## yatchaks

Thanks guys, I appreciate the input. I guess the only processing I can apply to 5.1 material when using a 5.1 system is THX.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How is your A1 connected? HDMI, S/PDIF or analog 5.1?
> 
> What do you have the A1 setup to output? Auto, PCM, Bitstream, Downsampled PCM?



A1 connected via HDMI/PCM.


----------



## dsm363




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Check with Nick,
> 
> But they still use same connectors, so unless yours is damage they will not touch the connectors.
> 
> Also what software are you running and did you try to plug in your sony DVD to 3 to see if it works?



I'm running 1.06h and the Sony doesn't work on HDMI 3 either. I'll have to e-mail Anthem.


Dave


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Try setting the Repeater to On (Yes). This should take care fo the problem. I had the same issue with the Oppo. If my projector was on there was no problem playing DVD Audio/CD etc. If the projector was off I got nothing. Switching the Repeater from Off (No) to On (Yes) took care of it.
> 
> 
> Regards,



It does it with the repeater to 'yes' also. After extended listening though it is only doing it the one time when my tv does its final shutdown. if I go into CD mode just from scratch with the TV off from the get go , I get no drops at all. I can live with that.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This applies to everything else also. It should always be the display first, then the D2, and then all the sources.



How would a cable box or satellite box fit in this sequence? Most people leave these item on all the time for recording purposes.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How would a cable box or satellite box fit in this sequence? Most people leave these item on all the time for recording purposes.



Greetings,


Actually my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR/STB does not have to powered On to record. Some of the older boxes I have had in the past did but tis one does not. In most cases the Anthem and display should already BE powered on prior to source components. The exception would be a music player which would not necessaily require to display be on when listening to music.


My Denon 3910 and 8300HD have no such issues. It does not matter which is powered on first. If I switched inputs on the Anthem they search for an active HDMI signal until I switch back. In that case they simply reaquire the signal.



Regards,


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Actually my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR/STB does not have to powered On to record. Some of the older boxes I have had in the past did but tis one does not. In most cases the Anthem and display should already BE powered on prior to source components. The exception would be a music player which would not necessaily require to display be on when listening to music.
> 
> 
> My Denon 3910 and 8300HD have no such issues. It does not matter which is powered on first. If I switched inputs on the Anthem they search for an active HDMI signal until I switch back. In that case they simply reaquire the signal.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Thanks Ralph,


I'll look my cable box up to see it it will turn on by itself. Perhaps this will eliminate the "green screen" I get after watching another HDMI source and switching back to the cable box.


----------



## Hunter67

Anyone know when Anthem is going to start offering the upgrade for older units? (D1, AVM-20/30).


I'm wanting to get my Toshiba A1 hooked up to HDMI sometime soon.


----------



## DrJRapp

Pehaps after they catch up with the backlog of those of us waiting for replacement D2s?


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I remember reading somewhere that William Phelps, the famous calibrator, was having alot of problems with HDMI cables and 1080i/p signals with 1080p projectors, and that only some high-end optical cables and the Ultralink HDMI Pro were free of problems. All the other "regular" HDMI cables (RAM, PacificCable, Monoprice...) were having intermittent problems with 1080i/p.



Al


Are you saying that the Canadian D2 only likes to work with Canadian cables???.....LOL


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you saying that the Canadian D2 only likes to work with Canadian cables???.....LOL



Jerry.


William Phelps lives in the US. He did test alot of cables with true 1080i/p sources and projectors, and almost all the cables were having problems with those, except some really costly optical HDMI cables, and the Ultralink HDMI HD Pro.


Passing 1080p and 6 ch of PCM audio can cause some troubles to alot of cheap HDMI cables.


I didn't knew that Ultralink was a canadian company btw . Interesting. Must be "the conspiracy theory" again...


----------



## DrJRapp

Yup it's a Canadian company! but_....I'm ordering one anyway_...LOL My 3d D2 should be here soon so I'm tring to eliminate as many variables as possible. My pj cable is from Pacific, it's their higher priced one and it's 10m long. I've never had an issue with it with 720P or 1080i, but with the D2, ANYTHING can be an issue...so, I figure it can't hurt to go with a known good cable. I'll rewire when my (on order) Pearl arrives.


----------



## Don O’Brien

Are they using identical heat dissipation, chassis, and power supply from the D1?


The D2 specs out as a great product, but the heat issues, failures and glitches would give pause to anyone looking to purchase this product.

Anthem should be given kudos for its vision.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Don O'Brien* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are they using identical heat dissipation, chassis, and power supply from the D1?
> 
> 
> The D2 specs out as a great product, but the heat issues, failures and glitches would give pause to anyone looking to purchase this product.
> 
> Anthem should be given kudos for its vision.



My dealer has one installed in a cabinet siting on the top of A2 and A5, it is warm but there is no heat issues.

There is some software issues with HDMI hand shaking, do to MFG not following the spec (but Anthem is not the only one with HDMI software issues).


----------



## LEVESQUE

I still have a D1 in my rack, and my D2 is only a little bit warmer. Not much tough.


And there is no more failures and glitches with the D2 then with all the new high-end video scalers like the DVDO VP30, Algolith Dragonfly or Vantage HD. You can go read all the threads with alot of owners complaining about all the bugs and HDMI incompatibilities with those new scalers in the video processor section of AVS. Just like the D2. Go take a look just for fun. HDMI specs are the problems.


The D2 is not your regular run-of-the-mill pre/pro. There is a high-end Gennum scaler in there. Alot tougher to implement. Just like all those high-end video scalers in the video processor section of AVS.


----------



## obie_fl

I really got my start here over 5 years ago with the CRT and Video Processor Forums. I agree new Video Processors are usually very bug ridden and go through a long series of firmware revisions. What I don't think is normal is the high number of hardware failures that the D2 seems to be experiencing myself included. You can say the bad apples are more likely to speak up on the Internet but there certainly does seem to be an unusually high number of failures reported on the D2. My unit developed hardware issues after several weeks of use. There were no hardware changes and rolling back to older firmware did not correct my issue so I have to believe it is hardware related. Just my 2 cents on the whole thing.


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I still have a D1 in my rack, and my D2 is only a little bit warmer. Not much tough.
> 
> 
> And there is no more failures and glitches with the D2 then with all the new high-end video scalers like the DVDO VP30, Algolith Dragonfly or Vantage HD. You can go read all the threads with alot of owners complaining about all the bugs and HDMI incompatibilities with those new scalers in the video processor section of AVS. Just like the D2. Go take a look just for fun. HDMI specs are the problems.
> 
> 
> The D2 is not your regular run-of-the-mill pre/pro. There is a high-end Gennum scaler in there. Alot tougher to implement. Just like all those high-end video scalers in the video processor section of AVS.



NKB is on to his 5th unit. all his problems have not been HDMI handshaking issues but more quality of workmenship and part sourcing.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> NKB is on to his 5th unit. all his problems have not been HDMI handshaking issues but more quality of workmenship and part sourcing.



As an engineer ( a real engineer not a virtual engineer), and the former head of a major electronics program in (US) Naval Air Systems Command, I need to concur. I've been inside the D2 and had a look around and honestly I can't tell what Anthem had in mind. My best analogy would be a Mercedes that got pimped out by Ford.


As long as Anthem fails to recognize that there is a potentially serious heat issue effecting the reliability and useful life of EVERYONE's D2 and therefore does nothing to really improve upon the D2 design and constuction (much more than just changing HDMI socket suppliers) there will be Anthem naysayers around. Many EE's and Electronics geeks don't have a clue about heat. That's the domain of a Mechanical Engineers, but most smaller electronics firms fail to hire an ME as a consultant during design.


A classic example of this was NuForce with their Ref9 amps which had an overheating problem when stacked due to the shortsighedness of their design team. I developed a solution for them that they have successfully implimented. If I had the time I'd work out the D2 also.


----------



## Unclejeff

I will be waiting and watching before moving on the D2. I do have a question. I am right now in the middle of a re-model and I have to close my walls. Is Catagory-5 wiring adequate for most in-wall infrared panels that can send signals back to the D2? Since I have not made up my mind on the D2, I don't know which panels I will be installing. Still, I need to get the wires into my walls.


----------



## DrJRapp

If it were me I'd do somthing more robust that Cat5. That way should you later choose to go RS232 or technology changes you are covered. 5 wire thermostat wire works well in that regard.


Yes, it is probably wise to wait on the D2 unless you are a compulsive tweaker like some are here and actually enjoy working out the problems.


----------



## obie_fl

I use Cat 5 without any problem. I did run some Class II PELV cable but I don't think it was necessary. You might want to see what the guys in the dedicated builder forum have to say.


----------



## Shiney6188W

I will be waiting and watching before moving on the D2 too. I'll be saving all my Dimes and Quarters during that time as well. I'll also need to get some speakers appropriate to the D2's abilities which will, no doubt, be quite costly. By the time I am ready to pull the trigger, the D2 should be completely reliable.


BTW, I would love to know what the current user base is mating to the D2 for audio output. I know there has been some mention of this in this thread but it would be nice to have more input on this. Please reply with speaker makes and models. Thanks...


----------



## DonnieW

Anyone using HDMI cable lengths of 35' plus? I read in the manual that anything over 25' can be a problem with either the D2 or AVM 50. I've got a 35' cable and want to know if I should expect problems??


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shiney6188W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BTW, I would love to know what the current user base is mating to the D2 for audio output. I know there has been some mention of this in this thread but it would be nice to have more input on this. Please reply with speaker makes and models. Thanks...



Greetings,


I am using Canton "Ergo" Series speakers the models are as follows:


Mains - 611 DC

Center - 605 CM

Rear Channel surrounds - 601 On walls

Surrounds - Axiom QS8 Quadpolars

Subwoofers - SV Sounds 20-39 PC Plus 12.3 ( front ) & Canton AS 650 SC (rear)



Regards,


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shiney6188W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BTW, I would love to know what the current user base is mating to the D2 for audio output.



Martin Logan Summit Mains

Martin Logan Theater _i_ Center

Klipsch THXII Surrounds

Klipsch RF35 Center backs

SVS PB12 Plus/2 with 12.3 drivers.


Amps: Aragon 3005 and Rotel 1080 for cb.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonnieW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone using HDMI cable lengths of 35' plus? I read in the manual that anything over 25' can be a problem with either the D2 or AVM 50. I've got a 35' cable and want to know if I should expect problems??



I have this cable

BJC HDMI Cable, Series-2, 30 foot

No problems at this moment


----------



## Shiney6188W

Ralph


I was just going through your HT pictures for the second time now, I think. Very nice and very serious looking. See, I didn't know what brand of speakers you had until today. Thank you for the info....


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shiney6188W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will be waiting and watching before moving on the D2 too. I'll be saving all my Dimes and Quarters during that time as well. I'll also need to get some speakers appropriate to the D2's abilities which will, no doubt, be quite costly. By the time I am ready to pull the trigger, the D2 should be completely reliable.
> 
> 
> BTW, I would love to know what the current user base is mating to the D2 for audio output. I know there has been some mention of this in this thread but it would be nice to have more input on this. Please reply with speaker makes and models. Thanks...



Started with CDM line from B&W

Slowly upgrading to Paradigm Signature:

Paradigm Signature S4

Paradigm Signature C3

Paradigm Signature ADP

CDM-SNT still left over from B&W

Velodyne DD-12

Anthem A2

Rotel RSB1075, soon to be replaced by A5


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hunter67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know when Anthem is going to start offering the upgrade for older units? (D1, AVM-20/30).
> 
> 
> I'm wanting to get my Toshiba A1 hooked up to HDMI sometime soon.



I just talked to the great guys at Anthem and they said they're still not yet ready to go. They suspected they'd be able to do the upgrades soon and assured me it would be advertised on the site. I did get a ballpark on the upgrade costs. It was significant enough to compell me to go for the AVM 50 now and be done with it.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shiney6188W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BTW, I would love to know what the current user base is mating to the D2 for audio output.



Paradigm Signature S8

Paradigm Signature C5

Paradigm Signature S2 (2 pairs)

Paradigm Signature Servo (2X)


Anthem Statement P2 (2X325W)

Anthem Statement P5 (5X325W)


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shiney6188W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BTW, I would love to know what the current user base is mating to the D2 for audio output. I know there has been some mention of this in this thread but it would be nice to have more input on this. Please reply with speaker makes and models. Thanks...



I'm using the following for Main Zone:


Anthem A5 Amp (5x180W)

B&W 703's for Main Zone L+R

B&W HTM-7 for Main Zone Center

B&W CCM-80's for Main Zone Rear L+R

B&W ASW-750 Subwoofer


For Zone 2, the Master Bedroom:

Anthem A2 Amp (2x200W)

B&W Inwall CWM-650's (L+R)


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shiney6188W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ralph
> 
> 
> I was just going through your HT pictures for the second time now, I think. Very nice and very serious looking. See, I didn't know what brand of speakers you had until today. Thank you for the info....



Greetings,


You are welcome. Actually my site clearly lists my equipment. Under each picture is also a description of the gear in the pic.



Regards,


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shiney6188W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BTW, I would love to know what the current user base is mating to the D2 for audio output. I know there has been some mention of this in this thread but it would be nice to have more input on this. Please reply with speaker makes and models. Thanks...



B&W Nautilus Series

803 x 2

HTM1

805 x 2

ASW 850


----------



## Bob Pariseau

HDMI Connection Saga -- cables matter!


Well I may be kicking myself soon. As you know I've had an extended series of problems maintaining a robust HDMI connection between my Comcast/Motorola HD/DVR and my D2. I had convinced myself that it couldn't be cable related since instances of failure would be followed by days of correct operation without any cable alteration.


Well 2 days ago I had another particularly stubborn case of failure to complete the HDCP handshake. In frustration I went out and bought a new, high end cable. In my case it was a Monster Ultra 1000 series 4 foot HDMI to HDMI cable. I selected it for no particularly good reason except that it came from Best Buy and thus I could return it for refund when it proved not to solve the problem.


But much to my surprise it DID solve the problem!


I'll have to use it for a few weeks more to feel confident it REALLY solves the problem, but right now I'm feeling pretty stupid for not trying this sooner.


The thing is, the HDCP handshake is not a high bandwidth exchange (as compared to the 1080i or 1080p data transfer during normal operation AFTER the handshake). Cable quality SHOULDN'T MATTER as regards that handshake. It should either work -- always -- or not work (also always) if the cable or sockets are faulty.


In addition the cable I replaced worked without problems at both 480i and 1080i from my Pioneer Elite 59avi DVD player. The Comcast box must have particularly crummy HDMI driver circuits.


Well so much for logic. Anyway, if you are having HDMI problems, it would probably be a good idea to try swapping in a high end HDMI cable. These things are ridiculously expensive of course, so buy it at a place where you can return it if it doesn't solve your problem.

--Bob


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI Connection Saga -- cables matter!
> 
> 
> The Comcast box must have particularly crummy HDMI driver circuits.
> 
> 
> --Bob



I believe this to be the case with a lot of similar equipment. Unfortunately, cable and satellite carriers don't provide the most high-end products. I suppose they're good enough for the masses. It would be interesting to see some type of 'levels' review of HDMI outpus on different types of equipment.


----------



## Shiney6188W




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> You are welcome. Actually my site clearly lists my equipment. Under each picture is also a description of the gear in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



yeah...I noticed that the second time I checked it out.


----------



## Monty Williams

"Frequency Out Of Range!"


I've got my D2 connected to a Sony Ruby projector via HDMI and lately I've had a couple of instances where my projector displays the above message when I turn my system on. I have a macro programmed into my remote so the turn on sequence is the same everytime, but I occassionally get that error message. If I turn the D2 off and then back on, everything is fine.


Source doesn't seem to matter, whether it is Comcast HD via HDMI, Pioneer 79AVi via HDMI, or HD-A1 HD DVD via HDMI, it has happened with each source.

It seems random and occurs about 1 out of 5 system starts.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Monty,

Try putting in a bit more delay between the turn on of the projector and the turn on of the D2. Your display may not be quite ready to receive the initial connection from the D2.


The source SHOULD be irrelevant as the D2 converts every source's video to the video output format you have set up in it for driving your projector. So if the projector is complaining, that's just a problem between it and the D2.


If you've run your HDMI connection with longish cables (as is typically the case with a projector setup), you might need to upgrade your HDMI cable between the D2 and the projector. One way to test this would be to temporarily move the D2 close to the projector and try the same turn on sequence with a shorter cable connected to the projector.


Clearly, trying an additional delay in the macro before you turn on the D2 is easier.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI Connection Saga -- cables matter!...
> 
> 
> Well so much for logic. Anyway, if you are having HDMI problems, it would probably be a good idea to try swapping in a high end HDMI cable. These things are ridiculously expensive of course, so buy it at a place where you can return it if it doesn't solve your problem.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Good deal. I know in the digital age of boolean should or shouldn't how much sometimes comes up










Good lesson learned, particularly from a well respected member as yourself given many people great advice,

Tim


----------



## Monty Williams




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Monty,
> 
> Try putting in a bit more delay between the turn on of the projector and the turn on of the D2. Your display may not be quite ready to receive the initial connection from the D2.
> 
> 
> The source SHOULD be irrelevant as the D2 converts every source's video to the video output format you have set up in it for driving your projector. So if the projector is complaining, that's just a problem between it and the D2.
> 
> 
> If you've run your HDMI connection with longish cables (as is typically the case with a projector setup), you might need to upgrade your HDMI cable between the D2 and the projector. One way to test this would be to temporarily move the D2 close to the projector and try the same turn on sequence with a shorter cable connected to the projector.
> 
> 
> Clearly, trying an additional delay in the macro before you turn on the D2 is easier.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the input, Bob. I don't think it's a cable issue because I've been using the same HDMI cable for 2 years with no problems, 18' Monster THX Ultra 1000 by the way. I'll try a little more delay in my macro. Thanks again.


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If the player can read the disc, decode it, and send it as PCM, the receiving end doesn't care what it started out as.
> 
> 
> The D2 support up to 8 channels of 192KHz/24bit digital audio over HDMI 1.1




Would this be the case for the AVM 50 as well?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonnieW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Would this be the case for the AVM 50 as well?



Yes. Same thing. But it's 8 ch of 96KHz/24bit and 2 ch of 192KHz/24bit digital audio over HDMI 1.1. It's more a bandwidth limitation then a number of channels limitation.


----------



## DonnieW

So the limit of 96/24 is an HDMI 1.1 limitation?


But there is still a difference in the 50 which is only capable of 24/96, whereas the D2 can do 24/192. Correct?


Sorry... missed my morning coffee.


----------



## nkb

Well, #5 D2 has remained stable (or at least consistent).


It still gets hot to the point that the setup screen gets flakey. I have put a fan near it now but still need to fine tune the configuration to keep it cool enough.


Now that I have had a working D2 for a while I have been setting up the remote and triggers to turn things on in sequence and according to what is needed. This has worked pretty well but is limited. I also apparently ran out of memory programming all my remotes into the D2 remote.


I was originally slated to have a Crestron control for the system but have been trying to get by with the programmable remote and triggers. A whole other topic.


In any event I am now playing. The D2 works!!


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was originally slated to have a Crestron control for the system but have been trying to get by with the programmable remote and triggers. A whole other topic.
> 
> !



Try the Harmony 880. It can be obtained for as little as $175 and is super easy to program. It is also much easier to use than the stock D2 remote.


Good luck with number 5. That's one of my lucky numbers, lets hope it's yours. I'm still waiting for #3 to arrive.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I use a Philips ProntoPro TSU7000 which is completely customizable and has plenty of memory. It is my third Pronto remote and I have become accustomed to using them. Once you get the hang of programming them they are truly excellent universal remotes.



Regards,


----------



## KenLand

So what is the latest consensus on the D2? Is it perfect? Is the video processing everything we'd hoped it would be?


I'm going to go by and talk to Anthem at Cedia either Thursday or Friday. Any suggestions on what I should ask about?


Of course my main question is When will upgrades start?


Ken


----------



## Dennis Oblow

Ask Anthem if there is an HDMI 1.3 upgrade comming as well, and if this is why there has been no upgrades for us yet?


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dennis Oblow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ask Anthem if there is an HDMI 1.3 upgrade comming as well, and if this is why there has been no upgrades for us yet?



I'd specifically like to know what a 1.3 upgrade would entail? Complete board or just a chip? I don't suppose HDMI 1.3 is a firmware upgrade, but it would be good to have a firm answer!


----------



## Monty Williams




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Monty,
> 
> Try putting in a bit more delay between the turn on of the projector and the turn on of the D2. Your display may not be quite ready to receive the initial connection from the D2.
> 
> 
> The source SHOULD be irrelevant as the D2 converts every source's video to the video output format you have set up in it for driving your projector. So if the projector is complaining, that's just a problem between it and the D2.
> 
> 
> If you've run your HDMI connection with longish cables (as is typically the case with a projector setup), you might need to upgrade your HDMI cable between the D2 and the projector. One way to test this would be to temporarily move the D2 close to the projector and try the same turn on sequence with a shorter cable connected to the projector.
> 
> 
> Clearly, trying an additional delay in the macro before you turn on the D2 is easier.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks for the tip. I reordered the sequence of my macro and added 2 seconds delay to my projector and have not had and "Frequency out of range" reoccurances, or any other problems, since last Friday (including 20+ hours of football watching over the weekend).


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Slightly off topic, but was discussed a while back in this thread.


The new Tivo Series 3 HD box is available now, and has a multitude of different video output settings, including one that is intriguing to us D2 owners called "Native Mode". Native Mode allows the native broadcast resolution to be sent to the D2 in every case, allowing the Gennum scaler to deinterlace and/or scale to the appropriate video output for your display. This may not seem like an earth-shattering new feature, but for those of us who have had DirecTiVo HR10-250's, the satellite-based Tivo, we have all suffered with the pain and crappy HD picture that results from NOT having the capability for a "Native Mode". [You could choose 480i, 480p, 720p, or 1080i, but it was a manual choice, never done "Natively" as you flip around to different channels].


So, to give an example, the Series 3 will receive my Comcast broadcast of ESPN-HD in 720p, and not try to scale it or anything, but will send the 720p native broadcast on to the D2 via HDMI for proper scaling by the D2. Similarly, if I then change the channel to Discovery HD Theater, the Series 3 will now just pass that native 1080i signal on to the D2 for proper deinterlacing....and so on...


My Series 3 arrives on Friday, Comcast comes to add the Cablecards to it on Friday also, and I'll be leaving DirecTV in the dust for good! Long live quality HD!!!!!


-Brian


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So what is the latest consensus on the D2? Is it perfect? Is the video processing everything we'd hoped it would be?
> 
> 
> I'm going to go by and talk to Anthem at Cedia either Thursday or Friday. Any suggestions on what I should ask about?
> 
> 
> Of course my main question is When will upgrades start?
> 
> 
> Ken



You could ask them when they are going to switch over to better HDMI sockets

and what modfications they are making so people do not have to add a $12 fan to keep a $6900 unit working properly.



If they fix that I will buy 3 D2's (or d3's from them)


Not that this effects me but also when you will be able to setr custom timmings for non standard displays?


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Try the Harmony 880. It can be obtained for as little as $175 and is super easy to program. It is also much easier to use than the stock D2 remote.
> 
> 
> Good luck with number 5. That's one of my lucky numbers, lets hope it's yours. I'm still waiting for #3 to arrive.




Thanks for the tip. In looking at the Harmony 880 I also found the Harmony 1000 that looks like a Crestron setup for a lot less, if all you want to control is the A/V equipment (my case). Not interested in lights, climate, etc. - have that with another system.


The only thing is that the 1000 was just announced(I think yesterday). Do I get into the same early adopter syndrome that I fell into with the D2, and end up shooting the manufacturer's bugs for them?


----------



## KenLand

Ok,


1. Is HDMI 1.3 in the cards?


2. Any plans for more robust HDMI connectors?


3. Any plans to adress reported overheating problems?


4. How about custom resolutions? (I sure thought Nick told me that was in there)



Brian, the only problem with "Native rez" is that every time the resolution changes it triggers a new re-authentication and so a long delay and slow channel changing. If you set it to fixed (out of the Tivo or any other box for that matter) it shouldn't require a re-authentication.


So really, in all, I'd say everyone is happy with the performance of the D2 since the complaints are primarily physical in nature.


Ken


----------



## Milt99

Ken, Ken, Ken.


IMO questions about HDMI 1.3 and connectors are a waste but they won't take much time for him to answer, i.e., no.


Ask about the time frame for D1->D2 upgrades.

Remind Nick that we D1 owners are the original faithful and have been waiting patiently. Sort of.


Also, ask about the EQ\

oom correction feature. NOT auto calibration, EQ Room Correction ala Audessey(sic).


Please and thank you!


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Brian, the only problem with "Native rez" is that every time the resolution changes it triggers a new re-authentication and so a long delay and slow channel changing. If you set it to fixed (out of the Tivo or any other box for that matter) it shouldn't require a re-authentication.
> 
> 
> Ken



Ken, I wouldn't necessarily assume that this is the case. The early reviews of the Series 3 indicate that Native mode allows for very quick channel changing, just like the other video output modes. But I will be able to tell you for sure by Friday night


----------



## LEVESQUE

With the latest beta-firmware, we are now testing:


-custom resolutions

-custom gamma curves

-multiple per-input memory banks

-gen-lock


So the D2 will now have almost every features that you can get with an external dedicated scaler. Even DVDO, PixelMagic, vantage HD, and all the other high-end scalers manufacturers are not offering alot more then that in their scalers...


Anthem also already told me that room-eq should be available later down the road for the D2... They are working on it.










Ken.


The D2, performance wise, is on par (or better) then all the latest high-end video processors out there using the newest Realta and HQV chips. I sold my VP30 the day I was able to try the D2. Picture quality is simply better with 1080i on the D2. Toshiba HD-DVDs are unbelievable at 1080p with the D2 and my Sony Ruby. Sound quality over HDMI with an all digital chain must be heard. No analog to digital conversion.


The D2 is a major breakthrough product, and ALL the major receivers manufacturers for once will have to copy what Anthem did. The upcoming Denon flagship this fall will finally have an integrated Realta chip and finally use a true 1080i/p vdeo processing solution. So Denon will do just like Anthem, but 6 months AFTER Anthem were able to do it in a pre/pro.


Lexicon were just able to react with the MC-12HD with HDMI 1.1... But it's not passing 1080p!, and I'm not even sure it can do basic video processing... Probably using the same "run-of-the-mill" Faroudja chip like everyone else were doing before Anthem showed then how it should be done with a real powerful chip like the Gennum. So the Lexicon is around 2X the price of the D2... for alot less...


The newest Halcro with HDMI? A reviewer is already trying it's fifth (yes, 5) unit. And it's still full of bugs... Hardware failures, etc. Each unit he got was ridden with bugs and failures. The Halcro is not even using a true 1080i chip like Realta or Gennum. Again the run-of-the-mill Faroudja video processing. And again the Halcro cost more $ then the D2... for less...


Where are Integra, Theta, and all the other high-end pre/pro manufacturers? Where are Pioneer, Denon and Onkyo flagship receivers with Realta or Gennum processing? They are 6 months late already. But they will put those products on the market this fall! Anthem were faster then all those giant receivers manufacturers.


And only Anthem were ready for the new HD-DVD and Blu-ray formats when they came out, with true inverse telecine and per-pixel motion adaptive de-interlacing with 1080i.


Even DVDO are lagging behind with the VP50 coming out in a couple of weeeks... And it's a true video processor manufacturer!


I know there seems to be some hardware failures for some... But if you put those aside for a second (they will fix the problems), the D2 is a unique product on the market right now. Nothing can do what it does short of a combo Lexicon HD + Crystalio II... for around 3X the price of the D2...


Since my unit is working like a champ since january (like alot of other owners that are simply not vocal like those with problems...) I'm in video and audio nirvana.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With the latest beta-firmware, we are now testing:
> 
> 
> -custom resolutions
> 
> -custom gamma curves
> 
> -multiple per-input memory banks
> 
> -gen-lock
> 
> 
> So the D2 will now have almost every features that you can get with an external dedicated scaler. Even DVDO, PixelMagic, vantage HD, and all the other high-end scalers manufacturers are not offering alot more then that in their scalers...
> 
> 
> Anthem also already told me that room-eq should be available later down the road for the D2... They are working on it.



Greetings,


Lev, can you expand on the above. Specifically regarding multiple per-input memory banks, and gen-lock?


Thanks.


Regards,


----------



## tycoondog2

LEV


Can we keep this thread on topic. We are talking Anthem not every other product out there










PS. the mine better then yours is in the 20K and up forum


----------



## Ed Weinman

O.K., I'll ask this here at risk of being stoned but...is there any news re: the D1 upgrade to the D2? (Now I'll duck!)


Thank you!


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip. In looking at the Harmony 880 I also found the Harmony 1000 that looks like a Crestron setup for a lot less...... Do I get into the same early adopter syndrome that I fell into with the D2, and end up shooting the manufacturer's bugs for them?




I don't think there could be anywhere near as many problems with that device as with the D2....for a lot of reasons.


However, I would still opt for the 880 to give it a try. I think you will be very pleased....I KNOW your wife (or so or whatever) will..... it's activity based functionality makes using a very complex setup easy as pie! My wife insited I get one for the MBR after using the main one.


You could then give the 1000 a few more months to get the kinks out, and reassign your 880 to another system....it's cheap enough.


----------



## DrJRapp

Al L


I've read that same post before from you, either at Nextlevel or in one of your emails to me.


I have just one question....how much does Anthem pay to get such good press?....LOL...just joking, but it certainly seems that way!


As for me, i'd prefer to see them work on the heat issues rather than provide more features. Longevity and reliability trumps versatility in my book on any given day. Then again, since you probably get your D2 very cheaply, you wouldn't be as concerned as us "not so connected" folks who spent upwards of a month or more pay for their D2. I've given up worring about the glamor features. I'll just settle for a D2 that can switch between three different sources without crashing or having a HDMI plug fall out when it shakes loose from LFE.


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip. In looking at the Harmony 880 I also found the Harmony 1000 that looks like a Crestron setup for a lot less, if all you want to control is the A/V equipment (my case). Not interested in lights, climate, etc. - have that with another system.
> 
> 
> The only thing is that the 1000 was just announced(I think yesterday). Do I get into the same early adopter syndrome that I fell into with the D2, and end up shooting the manufacturer's bugs for them?



I would also recommend the Universal Remote 950.


----------



## benowen

LEVESQUE,


What version of firmware is being tested? Any do you know when it may be released?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would also recommend the Universal Remote 950.




Bill... just a note.. make sure that anybody thinking about buying one of these goes with an authorized dealer.. URC started making the software for their custome installer lines very difficult to obtain...


----------



## Max Spivak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With the latest beta-firmware, we are now testing:
> 
> 
> -custom resolutions
> 
> -custom gamma curves
> 
> -multiple per-input memory banks
> 
> -gen-lock



Woo-hoo!!! Custom resolutions! Does that mean we can define *any* resolution? My projector res is non-standard 1400x788. I'd love to be able to output that by the D2.


I've been off AVS for a few weeks -- too busy. In the meantime, my second D2 arrived. I'm glad to report that it's fine. Green dots are gone. Hum ended up being due to a faulty balanced interconnect. Blue Jeans Cable replaced it and all is good.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Spivak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Woo-hoo!!! Custom resolutions! Does that mean we can define *any* resolution? My projector res is non-standard 1400x788. I'd love to be able to output that by the D2.



I will get excited when they allow custom resolutions via component. If that is the case I may decide to upgrade my D1 to a D2 when that option comes to fruition.


If DVDO can do it with their VP-30 and VP-50, with the limit of course being the broadcast flag (or whatever the flag is that limits output resolution without HDCP), then I think that both pre/pros with video processors and DVD players with the ability to upscale are just looking for excuses when releasing top notch video processors without taking advantage of all the units can accomplish.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Zoom feature flickers?


The Zoom feature of the D2's Scaler allows zooming in on wide screen content letter-boxed in a 4:3 frame -- as when viewing some wide-screen movies shown on SDTV channels or with some older, letter-boxed, movie DVDs which are not utilizing anamorphic enhancement for 16:9 TVs. At the default 100% setting, Zoom causes a 16:9 movie letter-boxed in a 4:3 frame to expand to just about fill a 16:9 screen. Settings below 100% cause more zoom-in, and when set below 100% you can also shift the picture horizontall and vertically -- possibly useful to make sure subtitles remain visible.


This is not a feature I would use a lot, but nevertheless I finally got around to playing with it and discovered the resulting picture quality -- even at the default 100% setting -- seems to be significantly worse than the usual, exceptionally good video the D2 otherwise produces.


My video input is 480i and the output is 1360x768p at 60Hz. What seems to be going on is some sort of interlacing artifact that gives a flickering appearance to the image. It may be that the D2 is zooming BEFORE de-interlacing the 480i input, thus making the inherent interlace flicker more evident. But that's just a guess.


There is no such flicker evident if you use the D2's Anamorphic stretch Scaler option to expand a 4:3 image to fill the 16:9 screen. But of course that just stretches the image side to side without also stretching it top to bottom to eliminate the letter-box bars in such a movie.


(I've not yet tried playing with the Bypass option as an alternative way to zoom in on such a movie.)


Is anyone else seeing this?


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------


By the way, it's been a week since I switched to the new high-end HDMI cable for my Comcast HD/DVR and I've had no recurrence of the nasty HDMI/HDCP connection issues. I'm now cautiously optimistic this cable may be a true solution.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Bob, my initial attempts to use the Zoom feature while viewing 4:3 letterboxed DVD had the same effect. I believe I had the crop setting set to HDMI Auto. I found that viewing the same discs using the 16:9 setting yielded the desired results.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ralph!

Good find! I just did some testing and can see only minor down-side to this one: If you are viewing a 16:9 image which is letter-boxed in a 4:3 SDTV resolution frame (i.e., *NOT* anamorphically enhanced for 16:9 screens), you can zoom in to have it fill the 16:9 screen by setting D2 Crop to "16:9" and D2 Scale to "Letter/Pillar Box" for that input. The resulting image is geometrically correct and of high quality.


The only down-side I can find is that if you bring up any sort of overlay display from your video source (e.g., guide content, etc.) you may lose part of it off the screen, but that's to be expected. This could be a problem for Letter-boxed foreign DVDs that display the subtitle stream in the letter-box bar below the movie image. But there are fewer and fewer of those to worry about.


---------------------------------------------------------


So that still leaves open what the D2's Zoom function is SUPPOSED to be used for, and why it seems to produce such a crappy image. I was just watching a vertical credit scroll while Zoom was enabled and it was ridiculously jerky. So the Zoom function is either screwing up de-interlacing or possibly screwing up the film-mode cadence detection function.


Has anyone found a good use for the D2's Zoom scaler option?

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Bob, my initial attempts to use the Zoom feature while viewing 4:3 letterboxed DVD had the same effect. I believe I had the crop setting set to HDMI Auto. I found that viewing the same discs using the 16:9 setting yielded the desired results.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,




I'm glad I didn't know about the Zoom function, I had been doing it that way all along


----------



## fhoude

Hi,


According to your technical experience, do you think the AVM50 will be able to support HDMI 1.3 (via Hardware upgrade).


I know this standard will require a huge amount of horsepower / bandwidth and I'm afraid the AVM50 (D2's little brother) wont be upgradable. I assume that one day the basic concept of the AVM Serie will be an obstacle.


I'm about to buy the new AVM50 or the D2 and I'm figthing again myself to choose between the best features (D2), money (AVM50) and RealWord...


Regards,

FRED


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fhoude* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> According to your technical experience, do you think the AVM50 will be able to support HDMI 1.3 (via Hardware upgrade).
> 
> 
> I know this standard will require a huge amount of horsepower / bandwidth and I'm afraid the AVM50 (D2's little brother) wont be upgradable. I assume that one day the basic concept of the AVM Serie will be an obstacle.
> 
> 
> I'm about to buy the new AVM50 or the D2 and I'm figthing again myself to choose between the best features (D2), money (AVM50) and RealWord...
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> FRED



Yes it will be

But not for at least 2 to 3 years

1.3 was just finalized

It took MFG 4 years to start use HDMI,

Plus nothing can support 1.3 at this time, none of the TV/PJ will be able to support 1.3 for a long time (don't forget nothing is made for anything above 12 bit color depths at this time on the market).

So IMHA 1.1 is all you need for at least next 2 to 3 years


----------



## Johnla




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes it will be
> 
> But not for at least 2 to 3 years
> 
> 1.3 was just finalized
> 
> It took MFG 4 years to start use HDMI,
> 
> Plus nothing can support 1.3 at this time,



1.3 on some devices, such a HD DVD players, will be here a lot sooner than you expect. Like in a month or two!


http://www.twice.com/article/CA6372424.html 



"Toshiba Shows Next-Gen HD DVD Players


By Greg Tarr -- TWICE, 9/15/2006 6:10:00 AM


Denver Nearly six months into the launch of HD DVD, Toshiba introduced a pair of next-generation players, including a model that will support 1,080p high-definition video output.


The new models include the new entry HD-A2, shipping in October at a $499 suggested retail, and the new step-up HD-XA2, shipping in December at a $999 suggested retail. Both will offer performance and functionality improvements over the initial HD-A1 and HD-XA2 versions that are now in stores, including improved remote controls.


The flagship HD-XA2 will incorporate the new 1.3 version of the HDMI spec, said Jodi Sally, Toshiba A/V products group marketing VP, and will output high-definition in all major formats including 1,920 by 1,080p. Toshiba will use the capability to support the company's growing assortment of native 1,080p video displays, and to answer competitors planning to launch Blu-ray Disc players with full 1,080p output later in the fall.


The XA2 will also add 12-bit video DACs with 4x over-sampling at 297MHz, bi-directional RS-232, adjustable picture setting function and a more compact brushed aluminum housing than the first generation.


Both players will also include out-of-the-box support for the Dolby TruHD 5.1 audio format a feature that was also recently added to the first-generation players through a firmware update.


The entry HD-A2 model features a slimmer cabinet design, and will output HD content in either the 720p or 1,080i picture formats.


Toshiba also brought to CEDIA its HD DVD Mobile Experience 18-wheel truck, offering demonstrations of HD DVD players and various Toshiba high-definition video displays. In includes various Mark Levinson audio components and Microsoft HD DVD products.


The truck will be taken on a tour of more than 10 major cities across the nation between now and the end of January."


http://www.audioholics.com/cedia/ced...HDXA2HDDVD.php 


"The new high end Toshiba HD-XA2 HD DVD player is designed to output 1920 x 1080p via HDMI version 1.3, adding support for Deep Color technology. The HD-XA2 also incorporates a 297MHz / 12 bit Video DAC with high-quality, 4x oversampling for increased bandwidth of HD picture playback. The HD-XA2 comes with a picture setting function allowing customers to optimize picture quality with user adjustable settings for color, contrast, brightness, edge enhancement and block noise, among others. The new HD-XA2 HD DVD player's 1080p output capability also complements Toshiba's new Cinema Series Pro LCD TVs which provide true HD 1080p input capability via HDMI.


Since the HD-XA2 will be one of the first next generation players to support the "Deep Color" or 36-bit RGB/YCbCr portion of HDMI 1.3 I suppose we shoudl be on the lookout for compatible displays coming from Toshiba next year."


----------



## fhoude

Hello again,

In fact I'm not asking if HDMI 1.3 will come in a month or years but... Is the AVM50 still a good choice if I want to face the future?

The next big step in term of hardware will be according to me HDMI 1.3 but there perhaps more (Room EQ, new Audio format... ) and I don't want to see Anthem upgrade the D2 but not upgrade the AVM because of technical limitation. One day the AVM basic hardware will be a limitation unless they also upgrade this basic hardware... It's exactly like a computer, you can easily change your software, add a new card but as soon as you need extra Flops you need to change the main processor, the mother board, the RAM... and its no more an upgrade but a very different hardware.

I'm afraid of this since even the AVM50 represent an amount of money here and since hardware change very fast I'm wondering if the AVM is still a good choice to face the future. I do love the upgrade policy of Anthem and don't want to be frustrated if only the D2 will get hardware upgrade... (for now Anthem always succeed their hardware upgrade on the AVM so perhaps its not a problem)

Regards

FRED


PS: Forthcoming Sony PlayStation 3 will be an HDMI 1.3 BlueRay player.


----------



## LEVESQUE

HDMI 1.3 doesn't change anything at all for audio. You get 100% the same thing by sending decoded PCM to the receiver or pre/pro, which most any receiver/pre/pro with HDMI (non 1.3) should be able to handle just fine. It doesn't really provide any advantages, except for cases where the player can't decode all the formats internally. And they all do it for now, and shou7ld always do it.


Any HDMI connection works as long as the player decodes. Any HDMI version will pass 8channels of PCM to the processor for all BM and time alignment processes without any problem.


And for picture quality also. There is not a single display on the market now that can take advantage of the new HDMI 1.3 "features"... And there is not a single camera able to shoot with those new features... And Blu-ray and HD-DVD are still far from using those also.


I've read this on AVS from user "William" and I think it says everything:

*"HDMI 1.3 is about 98% hype as far as video goes and about 98% misinformation as far as audio goes..."*


Don't loose any sleep about it....


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> *"HDMI 1.3 is about 98% hype as far as video goes and about 98% misinformation as far as audio goes..."*
> 
> 
> Don't loose any sleep about it....



So are you saying Anthem wont be adding 1.3 to the D2 anytime soon

If not, why are the holding off so long on the D1 upgrades?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So are you saying Anthem wont be adding 1.3 to the D2 anytime soon



I've never said that.










Who says Anthem will not give us HDMI 1.3 when it will be needed? They were the first with a Gennum scaler on the market. Some people were even questionning that choice from Anthem to go with gennum. But now everyone is doing it...


Even the newest Lumagen announcement is about a Gennum scaler, the Lumagen RadianceXG:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=723537 


There was alot of hype about Realta on the net, but we can now clearly see at CEDIA that Gennum is now the best choice for high-end projector and scalers, since alot of manufacturers are now announcing projectors and scalers with Gennum inside... and only a few are using Realta...


We don't need HDMI 1.3 today. HDMI 1.1 is giving us everything we need for now. If Anthem were able to come out with the FIRST gennum scaler, I'm sure we will have HDMI 1.3 when we will need it. The D2 was out BEFORE the first Toshiba HD-DVD players and Blu-ray players. SO Anthem were ready when there was a need for it. The D2 was there when it was needed for HD-DVD and Blu-ray.


All the other pre/pro manufacturers were not...


----------



## KenLand

I got a chance to talk to Anthem about the D1/D2 here at Cedia.


1. Upgrades should start happening Q1-Q2 '07

2. If you're having an actual heat problem contact Nick (They acknowlege the issue and have a fix IF you are having an issue)

3. HDMI 1.3 won't be part of D2 model

4. Room correction around Q2 '07. Will include "kit and sw" with mic. Kit will cost $500-$600 and will work with D1 or D2 only. (others don't have the horsepower)

5. No acknowlegement of connector issues


4. took me by surprise. I expected it to always be on the perpetual "list".


I think I forgot a few things, but there you go.


Ken


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got a chance to talk to Anthem about the D1/D2 here at Cedia.
> 
> 
> 1. Upgrades should start happening Q1-Q2 '07
> 
> 2. If you're having an actual heat problem contact Nick (They acknowlege the issue and have a fix IF you are having an issue)
> 
> 3. HDMI 1.3 won't be part of D2 model
> 
> 4. Room correction around Q2 '07. Will include "kit and sw" with mic. Kit will cost $500-$600 and will work with D1 or D2 only. (others don't have the horsepower)
> 
> 5. No acknowlegement of connector issues
> 
> 
> 4. took me by surprise. I expected it to always be on the perpetual "list".
> 
> 
> I think I forgot a few things, but there you go.
> 
> 
> Ken



Thanks Ken


Nice of them to admit there is a heat problem, but dissapointed they did not address the HDMI conectors. I am sure the will be a silent swap out.


With Lumagen offering a 2 HDMI out, use 1 for picture use the other

to route sound into a pre/pro, I might stick with seperates


Any word on a D3?


----------



## yatchaks

I just purchased a Tivo Series 3. In the audio section of the S3 you can choose to output Dolby Digital, or it can convert the audio to PCM. The Tivo recommends using DD when using a receiver with a built in decoder. However, I'm still confused on which setting to use. I'm thinking, since my HD-A1 is set to output PCM, shouldn't the Tivo be set the same?


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got a chance to talk to Anthem about the D1/D2 here at Cedia.
> 
> 
> 1. Upgrades should start happening Q1-Q2 '07
> 
> 2. If you're having an actual heat problem contact Nick (They acknowlege the issue and have a fix IF you are having an issue)
> 
> 3. HDMI 1.3 won't be part of D2 model
> 
> 4. Room correction around Q2 '07. Will include "kit and sw" with mic. Kit will cost $500-$600 and will work with D1 or D2 only. (others don't have the horsepower)
> 
> 5. No acknowlegement of connector issues
> 
> 
> 4. took me by surprise. I expected it to always be on the perpetual "list".
> 
> 
> I think I forgot a few things, but there you go.
> 
> 
> Ken



My D2 does get VERY hot. Did they mention what the fix might be? Hardware/firmware/software? I've seen some odd behavior with my HD-A1 whereas i had to reboot the d2. I always figured it was the A1 but wonder if the D2 contributes as well. I wouldnt mind cooling the thing down anyways since my equipment room is getting very toasty since i added the Halo amps in there...


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just purchased a Tivo Series 3. In the audio section of the S3 you can choose to output Dolby Digital, or it can convert the audio to PCM. The Tivo recommends using DD when using a receiver with a built in decoder. However, I'm still confused on which setting to use. I'm thinking, since my HD-A1 is set to output PCM, shouldn't the Tivo be set the same?



No. Set the Tivo to output DD so the Anthem decodes it. The reason you want the A1 set to PCM is so it can convert the DD+ and TrueHD formats.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No. Set the Tivo to output DD so the Anthem decodes it. The reason you want the A1 set to PCM is so it can convert the DD+ and TrueHD formats.




Thanks Tom, I appreciate it.


----------



## fhoude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI 1.3 doesn't change anything at all for audio. You get 100% the same thing by sending decoded PCM to the receiver or pre/pro, which most any receiver/pre/pro with HDMI (non 1.3) should be able to handle just fine. It doesn't really provide any advantages, except for cases where the player can't decode all the formats internally. And they all do it for now, and shou7ld always do it.
> 
> 
> Any HDMI connection works as long as the player decodes. Any HDMI version will pass 8channels of PCM to the processor for all BM and time alignment processes without any problem.
> 
> 
> And for picture quality also. There is not a single display on the market now that can take advantage of the new HDMI 1.3 "features"... And there is not a single camera able to shoot with those new features... And Blu-ray and HD-DVD are still far from using those also.
> 
> 
> I've read this on AVS from user "William" and I think it says everything:
> 
> *"HDMI 1.3 is about 98% hype as far as video goes and about 98% misinformation as far as audio goes..."*
> 
> 
> Don't loose any sleep about it....



Thanks,

It's now quite clear I will be able face the future with "only" the AVM-50.

Audio will be decoded by the player, I will be vigilent on that point.

Picture is on extra board for the AVM (the same as the D2) so this part could be upgrade in the future... I'm quite confident Anthem will do that right on time... I'll see then, if an upgrade bring me something more with my setup.

Thanks again for this answer.


AVM-50 it will be... I'm already drooling










FRED


----------



## FilmMixer

I've talked about this in other forums, but to be clear...


As far as HD DVD goes, even with HDMI 1.3, unless the content providers author the soundtracks in the basic format, as opposed to the advanced formats, the decoding for DD+ and THD must happen in the player... so far, all of the studio releases will NOT pass their bitstreams out of the player for DD+ and THD, even with HDMI 1.3.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just purchased a Tivo Series 3. In the audio section of the S3 you can choose to output Dolby Digital, or it can convert the audio to PCM. The Tivo recommends using DD when using a receiver with a built in decoder. However, I'm still confused on which setting to use. I'm thinking, since my HD-A1 is set to output PCM, shouldn't the Tivo be set the same?



Do you have it hooked up via hdmi? And, if so, do you have any handshaking issues with the D2? I ask because my S3 is coming from CC on Monday with new Comcast service on Wednesday. I am concerned about setting the S3 to native with constant new handshaking with each resolution change.


Your audio question is the same that I would have. How does the audio sound with DD or PCM?


Maybe ManWithAPlan can chime in as he was supposed to get his S3 and 2 cablecards installed by Friday.


----------



## obie_fl

This discussion brings up a question I had the other day in another forum. Can the D2 handle eight channels of PCM over HDMI or is it limited to six? I'm not aware of any 7.1 hi-res software but was wondering what would happen if we ever get 7.1 versions of DD+ or TrueHD.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This discussion brings up a question I had the other day in another forum. Can the D2 handle eight channels of PCM over HDMI or is it limited to six? I'm not aware of any 7.1 hi-res software but was wondering what would happen if we ever get 7.1 versions of DD+ or TrueHD.



Greetings,


It is my understanding the HDMI version 1.1 equipped gear can handle up to 8 channels of 96khz PCM. Currently there is no software supporting 7.1 channel sound. The Anthem shouldhave no problem.


Regards,


----------



## obie_fl

I realize HDMI 1.1 supports this but that doesn't mean the Anthem supports it, hence the question. A lot (all?) of the newer HDMI 1.2 devices do not appear to support SACD for instance. I don't see anything on the Anthem web page or manual, both could use an update as most of the information is based on the older models.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can the D2 handle eight channels of PCM over HDMI or is it limited to six?



We should not talk about a "number of channels" but about a total bandwidth limitation. But so far the D2 can pass up to 8 channels of PCM 96/24 audio, or 2 channels of 192/24.


But since almost everything out there is under, or at, 48/24 (even the newest TrueHD tracks), there is no bandwidth problem to pass those with the D2. 96/24 tracks are a rarity now. There is only a few on the market, and almost all of them are concerts.


But yes, the D2 can handle up to 8 channels of PCM 96/24 audio.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you have it hooked up via hdmi? And, if so, do you have any handshaking issues with the D2? I ask because my S3 is coming from CC on Monday with new Comcast service on Wednesday. I am concerned about setting the S3 to native with constant new handshaking with each resolution change.
> 
> 
> Your audio question is the same that I would have. How does the audio sound with DD or PCM?
> 
> 
> Maybe ManWithAPlan can chime in as he was supposed to get his S3 and 2 cablecards installed by Friday.




Yes, I am connected via HDMI. I have the AVM 50, and have not had *any* handshaking issues, and am using the S3's native video mode. I get a slight screen flicker when changing channels from SD to HD, but never had a problem. The channel changing is slower than the 6412, not a big deal.


I also have Comcast and just retired the 6412. My wife and I are more than pleased with the purchase, well worth it IMHO. I don't know if it's possible, but the audio seems to edge out the 6412, as well as the video.


One issue I've noticed, is sometimes when entering the S3 menu I get that high pitched, half second audio chirp. This may also happen when exiting the menu and watching live TV. I'm not sure why this happens.


No more phantom recordings, lockups and just plain, terrible Motorola software to deal with. I love it.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, I am connected via HDMI. I have the AVM 50, and have not had one handshaking issues, and am using the S3's native video mode. I get a slight screen flicker when changing channels from SD to HD, but never had a problem.
> 
> 
> I also have Comcast and just retired the 6412. My wife and I are more than pleased with the purchase, well worth it IMHO. I don't know if it's possible, but the audio seems to have improved, as well as the video.
> 
> 
> No more phantom recordings, lockups and just plain, terrible software to deal with. I love it.



Cool,

but what is S3 is it a new digital box

I went to comcast to find some info on it and I can't

It almost sounds like its SA8300HD with internet support


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Cool,
> 
> but what is S3 is it a new digital box
> 
> I went to comcast to find some info on it and I can't



The S3 is the new HD Tivo box which works with cable only, it uses two cable cards and can be found here... http://www.tivo.com/2.0.boxdetails.asp?box=series3HDDVR .


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The S3 is the new HD Tivo box which works with cable only, it uses two cable cards and can be found here... http://www.tivo.com/2.0.boxdetails.asp?box=series3HDDVR .



I get it

Will this thing work in Canada, does any one know?

So all it gives you more than SA8300HD is Internet support


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I get it
> 
> Will this thing work in Canada, does any one know?
> 
> So all it gives you more than SA8300HD is Internet support



According to the outcome of the following link, it will work in Canada.. http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb...ghlight=canada 



Tivo's S3 will give more than internet support, you get awsome glitch free, easy to use, no headache software. When it comes to DVR's, Tivo has it nailed.


I know some of you would rather see this posted in the Tivo thread, I was going to send a pm, but know a few others here are from Canada, and might find the ability to use Tivo in Canada usefull.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> According to the outcome of the following link, it will work in Canada.. http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb...ghlight=canada
> 
> 
> 
> Tivo's S3 will give more than internet support, you get awsome glitch free, easy to use, no headache software. When it comes to DVR's, Tivo has it nailed.
> 
> 
> I know some of you would rather see this posted in the Tivo thread, I was going to send a pm, but know a few others here are from Canada, and might find the ability to use Tivo in Canada usefull.



Thank you will look into it,

Sorry LEVESQUE for steeling your tread


----------



## nkb

I am in contact with SFI re excessive heat on my D2(#5). It seems that this may be related to the video output resolution, cable, display device.


I am running 1360x768 as this is the closest to the native resolution of my plasma (Fujitsu 50 inch). I am using a 10 foot HDMI cable from Blue Jeans (based upon this forum).


Do others have a similar setup? Do you have excessive heat with resultant failure of the setup screen video out? This heat buildup occurs after about 10 minutes of operation in an open room (no enclosure, no stacked equipment). Cooling the D2 down the problem goes away. I also got the D2 hot enough in a more closed environment to result in "shaky" video from an SD SAT broadcast.


Maybe those D2 owners that do not have excessive heat have "lesser" video processing requirements that allow the scaler to not work so hard or are not using HDMI. And thus, the very different experiences you see on this forum regarding heat. Some report their D2 is barely warm while others, like myself, have a "hot" D2. The variation is perhaps not in the units themselves but in the loads imposed.


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am in contact with SFI re excessive heat on my D2(#5). It seems that this may be related to the video output resolution, cable, display device.
> 
> 
> I am running 1360x768 as this is the closest to the native resolution of my plasma (Fujitsu 50 inch). I am using a 10 foot HDMI cable from Blue Jeans (based upon this forum).
> 
> 
> Do others have a similar setup? Do you have excessive heat with resultant failure of the setup screen video out? This heat buildup occurs after about 10 minutes of operation in an open room (no enclosure, no stacked equipment). Cooling the D2 down the problem goes away. I also got the D2 hot enough in a more closed environment to result in "shaky" video from an SD SAT broadcast.
> 
> 
> Maybe those D2 owners that do not have excessive heat have "lesser" video processing requirements that allow the scaler to not work so hard or are not using HDMI. And thus, the very different experiences you see on this forum regarding heat. Some report their D2 is barely warm while others, like myself, have a "hot" D2. The variation is perhaps not in the units themselves but in the loads imposed.



Have you tried changing you output to another resolution to see if it still gets hot.


It was stated the other day that the heat issue could be fixed by a simple repair, so this seems a little contradictory


----------



## DrJRapp

There are other considerations that need to be looked at also. While this may seem like a rerun of the Canadian D2 conspericy theory it's really not.


I live in South Florida, room ambient temperatures that we are adjusted to for normal everyday living are 78-80. My cousins who live way way upstate NY very near the Canadian border tell me that they (and a poll of their friends) prefer 65-70 as their year round indoor temperature. Basic thermodynamics....65-70 degree ambient air can remove a lot more heat from a device without mechanical assistance than can 78-80.


My D2 runs very hot here in WPB and has heat stability issues, whereas Al Lev's D2 may not.......in Canada. So, if Anthem wasn't thoroughly considering the ramifications of different environments when they cobbled together the D2, problems could occur.


----------



## Monty Williams




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, if Anthem wasn't thoroughly considering the ramifications of different environments when they cobbled together the D2, problems could occur.




"...cobbled together..." Interesting choice of words.


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are other considerations that need to be looked at also. While this may seem like a rerun of the Canadian D2 conspericy theory it's really not.
> 
> 
> I live in South Florida, room ambient temperatures that we are adjusted to for normal everyday living are 78-80. My cousins who live way way upstate NY very near the Canadian border tell me that they (and a poll of their friends) prefer 65-70 as their year round indoor temperature. Basic thermodynamics....65-70 degree ambient air can remove a lot more heat from a device without mechanical assistance than can 78-80.
> 
> 
> My D2 runs very hot here in WPB and has heat stability issues, whereas Al Lev's D2 may not.......in Canada. So, if Anthem wasn't thoroughly considering the ramifications of different environments when they cobbled together the D2, problems could occur.



I experience problems at an ambient interior temperature of around 70 deg F. I am in Northern California and while we have some hot days, typically it is not all that hot.


I suspect that the D2 is not subjected to any kind of "torture" testing relative to ambient heat. It's probably only tested sitting in a well ventilated rack in an air conditioned room. That situation is definitely not going to compare to an 80 degree ambient environment. The D2 clearly has a very tight operating tolerance on heat levels, one that is not practical nor reasonable for the range of real world situations.


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Monty Williams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> "...cobbled together..." Interesting choice of words.



As I understand it the D2 is a direct descendant of the D1 which when originally designed probably had no intention of having a high level scaler in it. It appears that the assumption was made that the D1 could accept the scaler without any other redesign of the chassis or cooling requirements. (BTW: While there are no D1 to D2 upgrades available yet, I haven't heard of any changes in this area - just addition of boards/components.).


So, "cobbled together" may not be such an unfair characterization.


----------



## obie_fl

I have not experienced any thermal issues with my unit video or audio and I live in Florida too. I do like the Canadian conspiracy theory though.










I do have an issue with 96K/24 audio dropping channels over HDMI but it does it all the time. I'm awaiting my replacement unit but am worried the one I have might be better then the replacement.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nkb,

I'm running 1360x768 60Hz via 6 feet of HDMI to DVI cable to my Fujitsu plasma. I currently have my D2 by itself in a double height section of a wooden console that has glass on the front and is completely open in the back (but facing a wall). There are something over 12 inches of free air space above the top of the D2 in that double-height section. All other heat sources are isolated by the wooden walls so the D2 doesn't see any of that heat.


The D2 itself gets quite warm -- particularly along the side with the power supply (where the power cord attaches). But the ambient temperature of the walls and air inside the cabinet remains about 80 F at steady state so the heat is being adequately dissipated out the back of the cabinet.


I have none of the problems you are seeing with the reliability of the D2's Setup screen.


I would suggest the problem here may be that although your display is supposed to accept 1360x768 60Hz in fact it's timing may be slightly different and thus the slight variation in timing as both the display and D2 heat up causes loss of sync lock between them. For example, your display's requirement at 1360x768 may, in fact, be slightly different from 60Hz, but still close enough that it can sync up at least for a while until the timing changes a wee bit more as things warm up.

--Bob


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are other considerations that need to be looked at also. While this may seem like a rerun of the Canadian D2 conspericy theory it's really not.
> 
> 
> I live in South Florida, room ambient temperatures that we are adjusted to for normal everyday living are 78-80. My cousins who live way way upstate NY very near the Canadian border tell me that they (and a poll of their friends) prefer 65-70 as their year round indoor temperature. Basic thermodynamics....65-70 degree ambient air can remove a lot more heat from a device without mechanical assistance than can 78-80.
> 
> 
> My D2 runs very hot here in WPB and has heat stability issues, whereas Al Lev's D2 may not.......in Canada. So, if Anthem wasn't thoroughly considering the ramifications of different environments when they cobbled together the D2, problems could occur.



I tend to agree that the cooler the environment the cooler the device, however, seldom are devices kept in 'open air'. What I mean is, many people rack or shelve their processors, thus, the ambient air is whatever is surrounding the processor. If it's in a shelf with little air, it won't matter if you're in a cooler climate. It will eventually bake itself.


If a component is that sensitive to heat than there is something wrong. Look no further than the overclockers to get an idea of how hot components can run before failing.


----------



## DonnieW

Does this problem exist with the AVM 50? I ask because there seems to be a focus on the video section (common to both the AVM and D) as the source of the heat problem.


I've not encountered any heat issues on my AVM50, but will now put a temp probe on it and see what kind of heat it gives off.


----------



## tycoondog2

If you go back and read Ken's post. he met with Anthem at Cedia and they admit a heat

problem which can be fixed.


Read post 1659


Acording to this nothing to do with output settings or room temprature


----------



## Unclejeff

Bummer. I will pay $600-plus for a unit that needs tweaking. $6,000-plus should have all of the tweaks included, which should not require a seperate fan to keep it working.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Acording to this nothing to do with output settings or room temprature



Room temp and equipment houseing will excaberate heat issues. What I am exploring is why people like Al Levesque have no issues while just about everyone here in Florida does.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have not experienced any thermal issues with my unit video or audio and I live in Florida too. ....... I'm awaiting my replacement unit but am worried the one I have might be better then the replacement.



Are you sure you don't have thermal issues?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Monty Williams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> "...cobbled together..." Interesting choice of words.



OBTW: Cobbled together is exactly the right term for how the D2 was designed....from an engineer's perspective.


----------



## gostan

I added the new Tivo Series 3 (via OTA-still waiting for Comcast installation) to my system and hooked it up to the fourth and last remaining HDMI input on my D2. I did this with trepidation as the Tivo is a brand new HDMI 1.1 capable device and I have never utilized the fourth HDMI input of the D2.


Lo and behold, it handshaked on the first try with both video and audio. No issues at all, and I am still running software version 1.00 as I have never updated to any of the new software versions.


Jerry, I am not gloating, just one of the lucky ones, I guess.


----------



## Nathan_R

I still don't have any heat issues with my AVM-50 and I keep the unit in (*insert grimace here*) a slightly ajar enclosed cabinet. I'm still curious if this is due to some component in the D2 that the AVM-50 lacks.


Has anyone with an AVM-50 complained about excessive heat?


----------



## yatchaks

No heat problems with my AVM 50 either. It does sit on an open rack, has a few inches above the unit before the next glass shelf.


I too wonder why the AVM 50 doesn't appear to have the heat problems the D2 has.


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No heat problems with my AVM 50 either. It does sit on an open rack, has a few inches above the unit before the next glass shelf.
> 
> 
> I too wonder why the AVM 50 doesn't appear to have the heat problems the D2 has.



Less horse power under the hood.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you sure you don't have thermal issues?



I'm fairly certain as my problem is a hard failure present immediately at power up and only one specific audio mode. With the exception of multi-channel LPCM over HDMI all my other audio and video modes work fine. I've had my D2 on for over 12 hours straight without a single video hiccup. I'm a little hesitant swapping out the unit due to some of the horror stories here and because everything but the above exception works great. Problem is the main reason I bought a D2 was for the HDMI multi-channel LPCM.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nkb,

Just in case you haven't already tried this, you might want to try Component Video cabling at 1360x768 60Hz to see if the same problem presents itself after the D2 and display warm up. If I'm right that this is a sync rate issue, then the problem SHOULD likely appear via analog Component video as well.


------------------------------------------------------------


In my HDMI to DVI configuration, the Info Panel (under the D2's "7" key) shows


1920x1080i 59.94Hz video input (for example)


for the HDTV HDMI input feed from my Comcast box, being turned into


1360x768p

60.00 Hz Frame Rate

47712.00 Hz Line Rate


for the digital video output stream to my Fujitsu.


Meanwhile the Fujitsu's own info display is showing it is receiving


60.0 Hz Vertical Rate

47.7 KHz Horizontal Rate


You might want to compare these displays in your setup to see if anything peculiar shows up. Also check the manual for your display to see if it expects these precise Vertical and Horizontal rates for a 1360x768p input signal.


For example the manual for my Fujitsu, says that its expected timing for 1360x768p is


60.01 Hz Vertical

47.71 KHz Horizontal


Now, to the accuracy these numbers are shown, the Horizontal rate is a match. But the Vertical rate differs (60.00 vs. 60.01). However, even if that's a real difference, apparently the Fujitsu and/or the D2 have enough flexibility to stay in sync lock ANYWAY.


Your display may be different.

--Bob


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Problem is the main reason I bought a D2 was for the HDMI multi-channel LPCM.



Didn't we all?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

obie_fl,

Yeah, I'd be hesitant to swap out the D2 as well in your shoes. Now as I recall you've already tried a different, high-end, short length HDMI cable right? Have you also had a chance to try a different HD/DVD player unit with the latest firmware?


In all likelihood there's nothing for it but to replace the D2. But at least these two tests would make you feel more comfortable that it just has to be done.

--Bob


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> nkb,
> 
> Just in case you haven't already tried this, you might want to try Component Video cabling at 1360x768 60Hz to see if the same problem presents itself after the D2 and display warm up. If I'm right that this is a sync rate issue, then the problem SHOULD likely appear via analog Component video as well.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In my HDMI to DVI configuration, the Info Panel (under the D2's "7" key) shows
> 
> 
> 1920x1080i 59.94Hz video input (for example)
> 
> 
> for the HDTV HDMI input feed from my Comcast box, being turned into
> 
> 
> 1360x768p
> 
> 60.00 Hz Frame Rate
> 
> 47712.00 Hz Line Rate
> 
> 
> for the digital video output stream to my Fujitsu.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile the Fujitsu's own info display is showing it is receiving
> 
> 
> 60.0 Hz Vertical Rate
> 
> 47.7 KHz Horizontal Rate
> 
> 
> You might want to compare these displays in your setup to see if anything peculiar shows up. Also check the manual for your display to see if it expects these precise Vertical and Horizontal rates for a 1360x768p input signal.
> 
> 
> For example the manual for my Fujitsu, says that its expected timing for 1360x768p is
> 
> 
> 60.01 Hz Vertical
> 
> 47.71 KHz Horizontal
> 
> 
> Now, to the accuracy these numbers are shown, the Horizontal rate is a match. But the Vertical rate differs (60.00 vs. 60.01). However, even if that's a real difference, apparently the Fujitsu and/or the D2 have enough flexibility to stay in sync lock ANYWAY.
> 
> 
> Your display may be different.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I could be wrong but I don't think 1360x768 resolution is available except with HDMI. When I was running component (because of HDMI jack problems) on prior units I don't remember being able to select that resolution.


I'll check the scan rates but remember this problem only really shows up with the setup screen. Not sure I can get the display info screen on top of the setup screen - never tried.


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you go back and read Ken's post. he met with Anthem at Cedia and they admit a heat
> 
> problem which can be fixed.
> 
> 
> Read post 1659
> 
> 
> Acording to this nothing to do with output settings or room temprature




SFI has not yet shared with me what this heat fix is. Their suggestion was to take my unit and try it in a different environment (at the dealer). Both the dealer and I are not particularly enthusiastic about following this course of action after all the prior hoops we have jumped through with 5 units. This would involve at least another half a day's time on my part in travel and onsite activity .... with a high probability that nothing will be resolved. I think we are grasping at straws at this point.


In the meantime I'll keep a fan on the D2. This is a 4", 65CFM AC unit. Even now I still don't get the D2 quite cool enough to eliminate setup screen display problems altogether. I probably need to reorient the fan better, but haven't yet had the time.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> obie_fl,
> 
> Yeah, I'd be hesitant to swap out the D2 as well in your shoes. Now as I recall you've already tried a different, high-end, short length HDMI cable right? Have you also had a chance to try a different HD/DVD player unit with the latest firmware?
> 
> 
> In all likelihood there's nothing for it but to replace the D2. But at least these two tests would make you feel more comfortable that it just has to be done.
> 
> --Bob



Both the Toshiba HD DVD and the Pioneer 79AVi DVD-A have the issue. I've tried three different cables and both players used to work. My replacement is on order so we will see.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nkb,

I've not tried Component video output myself, but there's no good reason why the D2 shouldn't offer 1360x768 over Component as well.


I don't think you'll be able to get to the Info panel display while the Setup screen is active. But it's still probably a good idea to check what it is telling you during normal video play. In addition, your display may have it's own Info display that woould show the precise timing it is seeing.

--Bob


----------



## flynnflamman

Price wise you can't beat a $15 fan from RS or Fry's but I saw a couple of neat little component coolers at Cedia and as a D2 owner myself I thought I'd pass it on.


This one from Middle Atlantic was actually being demoed at the show and is supposed to be available in a week or two. If I understood correctly, it has a sensor that activates the fan and then increases fan speed as a component heats up. I think they quoted it at $79.

http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/cooling/qcool.htm 


Cool Components showed something similiar in addition to several other options

http://www.cool-components.com/m6_view_item.html 



kevin


----------



## whitewolf1

AVM-50 here and no heat issues! This appears to be a D2 problem. I cannot, however, get hdmi to output dialogue on my center channel of the hd oppo. I hear music out of all other speakers but no dialogue?


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whitewolf1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> AVM-50 here and no heat issues! This appears to be a D2 problem. I cannot, however, get hdmi to output dialogue on my center channel of the hd oppo. I hear music out of all other speakers but no dialogue?




I can also confirm I've not noticed any heat issues. In fact the AVM 50 runs cooler than any other component I own! It's fair to mention that I use a Metro wire rack, so airflow is likely a factor. Nonetheless, this thing runs COOOOOL


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tycoondog2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Less horse power under the hood.



Im a more is better horsepoer guy, but.... I was thinking of trading up to the D2 from a 50 primarily to take advantage of the Environment Eq, but would like more info on what the real capabilities will be.


With that Kit, I'm wondering if there will be a chain reaction and the Pre-AMP will melt into the bowels of the earth


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whitewolf1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> AVM-50 here and no heat issues! This appears to be a D2 problem. I cannot, however, get hdmi to output dialogue on my center channel of the hd oppo. I hear music out of all other speakers but no dialogue?



hmmm...That's similar to my D2 problem except for me it is the left and right mains. This is for PCM output only. Is that what you are using on the Oppo? DTS and DD bitstreams work fine.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonnieW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can also confirm I've not noticed any heat issues. In fact the AVM 50 runs cooler than any other component I own! It's fair to mention that I use a Metro wire rack, so airflow is likely a factor. Nonetheless, this thing runs COOOOOL



Donnie

Thats a cool rack where did you find it in TO

Do you have any more pics of it


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whitewolf1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> AVM-50 here and no heat issues! This appears to be a D2 problem. I cannot, however, get hdmi to output dialogue on my center channel of the hd oppo. I hear music out of all other speakers but no dialogue?




I have a d2 and the oppo and they are working fine together with both sound and video...hooked up via hdmi.


I am assuming you have updated the d2 and the oppo with the latest firmware? the oppo update is beta but it is working great so far for me.


I have also not had any heat issues.



-bob


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whitewolf1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> AVM-50 here and no heat issues! This appears to be a D2 problem. I cannot, however, get hdmi to output dialogue on my center channel of the hd oppo. I hear music out of all other speakers but no dialogue?



This is one the same issue I have with my (2d) D2, along with video phase issues, except I have it both with the Oppo and the Toshiba XA1. Reverting back to 1.03 firmware gives me the ability to select between having the audio work or the video, but not both at the same time. I have temporarily solved all the problems by going to component and s/pdif. I've been waiting 6 weeks now for my 3d D2 to arrive.


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Donnie
> 
> Thats a cool rack where did you find it in TO
> 
> Do you have any more pics of it














"Metro" shelves are available worldwide, however, in Toronto your best bet is the "Solutions" chain. It's even 30% off at the moment, but I digress.


I suppose well ventilated shelving is still an AVM 50/Statement D2 TWEAK


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is one the same issue I have with my (2d) D2, along with video phase issues, except I have it both with the Oppo and the Toshiba XA1. Reverting back to 1.03 firmware gives me the ability to select between having the audio work or the video, but not both at the same time. I have temporarily solved all the problems by going to component and s/pdif. I've been waiting 6 weeks now for my 3d D2 to arrive.



Jerry - If you switch the Oppo and Toshiba to bitstream does it work? I'm curious as to how similar your and whitewolf issues are to mine. I'm into week 3 waiting on my replacement. I'm going to be cautiously optimistic and view the delay as Anthem fixing something on the D2, realistically it is more then likely a CEDIA induced delay.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Two weeks and counting since I swapped in my high end HDMI cable between my Comcast HD/DVR and D2, and still not a single instance of Comcast related HDMI/HDCP problems despite everything I've tried throwing at it -- including changing Comcast output resolutions willy-nilly. I think it's reasonable to assume by now that this is more than just coincidence. It would be interesting to go back to my original cabinet setup so see if the connection remains robust even if I let the D2 get warmer, but that's too much trouble at this point.


My remaining problems are:


1) Nasty image noise in low grays -- likely related to dithering frequency conflict between the D2 and my Fujitsu plasma -- almost entirely eliminated by *VERY* careful selection of calibration levels. The resulting picture at this point is excellent, but it really shouldn't be this hard to find calibration levels that produce "acceptable" picture quality.


2) V1.06 D2 firmware broke the ability to alter Color and Hue for the 480i HDMI/RGB input from my Pioneer Elite 59avi DVD player. Color and Hue controls still work for the Comcast input, although I don't actually use them. The controls used to work for the 59avi with the original firmware.


3) Setting the D2 to Letter/Pillar Box for the Comcast input ocassionally results in improper Pillar Boxing of HDTV channels. This can be fixed by momentarily switching the D2 to a different input and back again. This may very well be yet another instance of crappy engineering on the Comcast box (i.e., wrong flag being sent to the D2).


4) Very rarely the D2 loses HDMI to DVI handshake with my Fujitsu plasma when doing a handshake triggered by some change in video source. The fix for this is to power off the D2 and power it back on again. This is a rare enough issue that I haven't tried to fix it. It might be fixed by upgrading the HDMI to DVI cable to the Fujitsu for example.


5) I've had a series of cases where the D2 resets all it's settings under the "7" key, for all inputs, back to factory defaults all by itself. The settings in the Setup menu are unchanged when this happens. I can fix this by reloading Saved User Settings. It's as if I've accidentally hit some magic remote control combo of keys that triggers this. However, this has not happened since I switched to the new cable from the Comcast box, so perhaps it was related to flakey handshake from the Comcast.


6) The "Zoom" feature appears badly broken -- producing unacceptable image quality (jerky imaging as if cadence detection is screwed up). I would only use this feature to expand 16:9 images in a 4:3 SDTV frame to fill my 16:9 screen, and the D2's 16:9 Crop setting does this all by itself without screwing up the imaging, so I've no pressing need to use Zoom. But it is definitely broken.


-----------------------------------------------------------------


Video quality at this point is exceptional so long as I don't use the Zoom feature, and also given the extra care I've taken to find calibration settings that eliminate noise in the low grays. It really is amazingly good on everything I've thrown at it so far. This was the main thing I was looking for from this box, and by golly it really has delivered.


-----------------------------------------------------------------


I'm not yet using multi-channel PCM audio from any input so I don't know whether my unit has any of the problems reported for that. So far, I've had no issues at all with audio, and audio has completely surpassed my expectations in every respect. I knew the older D1 had an excellent reputation in this regard, but I wasn't expecting my D2 to be this much better than my prior Lexicon equipment. This was indeed a pleasant surprise.

--Bob


----------



## nkb

Well, I am finding that #5 even with a substantial fan on it and with a barely (to the touch) warm case that the setup onscreen display still is flakey. My unit appears to have a very low heat threshold for this problem to appear.


I don't have any other apparent problems with the D2 except for this.


But because of the heat related OSD, Dealer and Anthem are talking about #6. (I can't believe I just typed that).



I'm also looking forward to getting the remote automation on my whole setup. I am using all the D2 triggers to fire up amps and control the plasma lift depending on source.


Right now the newly announced Philips Pronto TSU9600 touchscreen remote looks interesting because it also has built-in support for Lutron Radio-Ra and the Escient Fireball - both of which I have.


----------



## tycoondog2

NKB


No Man Is Just A Number


TV Trivia


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I am finding that #5 even with a substantial fan on it and with a barely (to the touch) warm case that the setup onscreen display still is flakey. My unit appears to have a very low heat threshold for this problem to appear.
> 
> 
> I don't have any other apparent problems with the D2 except for this.
> 
> 
> But because of the heat related OSD, Dealer and Anthem are talking about #6. (I can't believe I just typed that).
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also looking forward to getting the remote automation on my whole setup. I am using all the D2 triggers to fire up amps and control the plasma lift depending on source.
> 
> 
> Right now the newly announced Philips Pronto TSU9600 touchscreen remote looks interesting because it also has built-in support for Lutron Radio-Ra and the Escient Fireball - both of which I have.



I use URC MX-3000

Here is a picture of it

Its great and very flexible and it comes with software on a CD









I hope they can sort out your D2

My is warm to touch but not hot, and so far no problems

Here is my setup


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonnieW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Metro" shelves are available worldwide, however, in Toronto your best bet is the "Solutions" chain. It's even 30% off at the moment, but I digress.
> 
> 
> I suppose well ventilated shelving is still an AVM 50/Statement D2 TWEAK



Thank you

If you just could show me your setup 2 weeks ago

I just build my

But I can see my shelf will be getting replaced for holidays


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I use URC MX-3000
> 
> Here is a picture of it
> 
> Its great and very flexible and it comes with software on a CD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope they can sort out your D2
> 
> My is warm to touch but not hot, and so far no problems
> 
> Here is my setup



The URC remote was on my short list until I heard that they recently changed their policy and do not readily provide the software to the end user. URC is now apparently promoting their remotes as installer only products.


So, fortunately you got your system setup before URC changed their business model. It looks quite nice.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The URC remote was on my short list until I heard that they recently changed their policy and do not readily provide the software to the end user. URC is now apparently promoting their remotes as installer only products.
> 
> 
> So, fortunately you got your system setup before URC changed their business model. It looks quite nice.



I got my URC after the change

MX-3000 includes software on a CD, which comes with all 3000

Also you can download software from their web site with the ser # of the remote if needs too.

All you have to do buy it from approved dealer


----------



## goenkar

elmac


Nice images on your MX3000. Did you purchase those ? If so where ?


I have an MX3000 too but am using the stock graphics.


Thanks


----------



## Johnla




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got my URC after the change
> 
> MX-3000 includes software on a CD, which comes with all 3000
> 
> Also you can download software from their web site with the ser # of the remote if needs too.



Yeah but the software on that CD and also the one that you D/L from their website no longer has a working "Live Update" function/option either. The latest URC professional series remotes are now shipped with no software CD's. The only way you can get the new software that also has a functioning "Live Update" option, is from the dealer that you buy/bought the remote from.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnla* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah but the software on that CD and also the one that you D/L from their website no longer has a working "Live Update" function/option either. The latest URC professional series remotes are now shipped with no software CD's. The only way you can get the new software that also has a functioning "Live Update" option, is from the dealer that you buy/bought the remote from.



All 3000 should have software with them and a splash screens.

Is your dealer not willing to help you. Thats strange.

You will always download the latest software from URC

when you log in with your ser #

and the screen files can be found here RC FILES 


Hope this helps


----------



## Johnla




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All 3000 should have software with them and a splash screens.
> 
> Is your dealer not willing to help you. Thats strange.
> 
> You will always download the latest software from URC
> 
> when you log in with your ser #
> 
> and the files can be found here RC FILES
> 
> 
> Hope this helps



I don't need any help with the remote, I already know all about it. And that D/L from URC for the software, will disable the live update function. Which means that unless you get your dealer to provide you with the other version that still has it, you will have to enter in your ser# and fill out their stupid form every time you even want to check for a newer version via the URC D/L page. Where as before you could just run the "Live Update" from within the MX-3000 editor program, and it would check for, and D/L any newer version. And it would also check for any newer firmware updates for the remote itself.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnla* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't need any help with the remote, I already know all about it. And that D/L from URC for the software, will disable the live update function. Which means that unless you get your dealer to provide you with the other version that still has it, you will have to enter in your ser# and fill out their stupid form every time you even want to check for a newer version via the URC D/L page. Where as before you could just run the "Live Update" from within the MX-3000 editor program, and it would check for, and D/L any newer version. And it would also check for any newer firmware updates for the remote itself.



Greetings,


It just means that new users will have to keep on top of things and a bit more effort ( meaning a few key strokes ) will be required to check for updates.


Hey John, elmac was only trying to help. I have noticed that on a routine basis that you seem to have an 'edge' to your posts when responding to others. This thread has maintained a friendly tone for the most part and it would be nice to keep it that way.


Regards,


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnla* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't need any help with the remote, I already know all about it. And that D/L from URC for the software, will disable the live update function. Which means that unless you get your dealer to provide you with the other version that still has it, you will have to enter in your ser# and fill out their stupid form every time you even want to check for a newer version via the URC D/L page. Where as before you could just run the "Live Update" from within the MX-3000 editor program, and it would check for, and D/L any newer version. And it would also check for any newer firmware updates for the remote itself.



The URC punishment of users is enough to make the most peaceful and friendly person turn into Atilla the hun. I have spent many years with URC and use the 950 & 850 for my theater, and I have dozens of products deployed for custom centers, but the lack of support and punishment because URC cannot control its own sales channels is irksome because it wasnt applied to new remotes after the policy changed but is retroactive, so I understand it's more than a few keystrokes. Looking at what's next across all remotes, whether it's Monster (no RF?) or Harmony 1000 or Philips 9600.


Well back to our regularly scheduled Anthem tweaks thread.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I got confused by this again yesterday, so it is probably worth documenting for others:


If you hit the "Mode" key on the D2 remote, you can cycle through the available audio processing Modes using the up and down arrow keys. The available Modes will depend upon the format of the audio input being received by the D2 at the moment, the speaker configuration (in particular whether you have Rear speakers as well as Surround speakers), *AND* whether THX post-processing is currently turned on.


THX post-processing is turned on or off by hitting the THX button on the D2 remote (which will report the current status) and then using the up or down arrows to toggle the setting.


And this is where it can get confusing.


Typically I will turn on THX when watching a movie -- whether via Comcast or DVD -- and turn it off otherwise.


However when watching old black and white movies (originally filmed in 4:3 aspect ratio -- in the days before wide-screen theaters), the best listening is to be had by selecting the Mono-Academy audio Mode which counters the high frequencies that were deliberately added in to those sound tracks (known as the "Academy" equalization) to make up for the dulling effect produced by theater speakers which were positioned to play from behind (i.e., through) the thickish movie screens of those days.


But that Mode aint available if you have THX turned on!


So if you are puzzled by why you can't find the audio Mode you want to use, try toggling THX to the other setting and look again.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got confused by this again yesterday, so it is probably worth documenting for others:
> 
> 
> If you hit the "Mode" key on the D2 remote, you can cycle through the available audio processing Modes using the up and down arrow keys. The available Modes will depend upon the format of the audio input being received by the D2 at the moment, the speaker configuration (in particular whether you have Rear speakers as well as Surround speakers), *AND* whether THX post-processing is currently turned on.
> 
> 
> THX post-processing is turned on or off by hitting the THX button on the D2 remote (which will report the current status) and then using the up or down arrows to toggle the setting.
> 
> 
> And this is where it can get confusing.
> 
> 
> Typically I will turn on THX when watching a movie -- whether via Comcast or DVD -- and turn it off otherwise.
> 
> 
> However when watching old black and white movies (originally filmed in 4:3 aspect ratio -- in the days before wide-screen theaters), the best listening is to be had by selecting the Mono-Academy audio Mode which counters the high frequencies that were deliberately added in to those sound tracks (known as the "Academy" equalization) to make up for the dulling effect produced by theater speakers which were positioned to play from behind (i.e., through) the thickish movie screens of those days.
> 
> 
> But that Mode aint available if you have THX turned on!
> 
> 
> So if you are puzzled by why you can't find the audio Mode you want to use, try toggling THX to the other setting and look again.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Bob, been there and done that !!



Regards,


----------



## whitewolf1

Sorry! been away for a few days and noticed a few people have responded to the audio issues. I have my oppo hooked up using raw through hdmi and have not been able to cure my dialogue loss issue with hdmi. I am using the optical out for audio along with the hdmi for video and it works fine that way. I am also having a problem with hdmi 1 not functioning but otherwise am happy with the avm50.


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whitewolf1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry! been away for a few days and noticed a few people have responded to the audio issues. I have my oppo hooked up using raw through hdmi and have not been able to cure my dialogue loss issue with hdmi. I am using the optical out for audio along with the hdmi for video and it works fine that way. I am also having a problem with hdmi 1 not functioning but otherwise am happy with the avm50.



I've got the Oppo 970HD connected to my AVM 50 via HDMI. I have experienced no issues with missing speakers/dialogue. For what it's worth, I tried all the HDMI ports 1 through 4. It's also worth mentioning that the Oppo is at it's factory default, I've touched nothing since getting it last week.


I've also cycled through each sound mode. Although each sounds different, none exclude any speakers or grossly affect dialogue.


----------



## whitewolf1

Thanks DonnieW! I think I'll fool around with it this weekend and see what I come up with.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonnieW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's also worth mentioning that the Oppo is at it's factory default, I've touched nothing since getting it last week.



Check and be sure that you have the latest Oppo software. The Oppo website support section can be your best friend. Also, I would try swapping the HDMI cable.


----------



## DonnieW

I thought I'd share details on the components I've got connected to the 4 HDMI ports on my AVM 50. Results as indicated:

*Denon 3910 Universal Player* = Perfect functionality with both audio and video. PCM is the selected output. Handshake is quick


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonnieW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> *note: Despite what many say about HDMI cable lengths, I've got mine connected to a Sanyo Z4 via 35' Monoprice cable. Even Anthem themselves said I'd likely have a problem over 25'. Not so, works flawlessly. I've even tested it on 1080P material to a professional movie monitor, again no issues.



FWIW.. no problems here and I am feeding my Sony Ruby with a 10meter/30ft DVI cable with adaptors at both ends...


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FWIW.. no problems here and I am feeding my Sony Ruby with a 10meter/30ft DVI cable with adaptors at both ends...



I think that the cable issue is an important consideration, but not as important as some would lead us to believe. Some people have had HDMI cable induced issues with the D2, but to say that cables are responsible either all or in part for the D2s reputation for unreliability is misleading.


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think that the cable issue is an important consideration, but not as important as some would lead us to believe. Some people have had HDMI cable induced issues with the D2, but to say that cables are responsible either all or in part for the D2s reputation for unreliability is misleading.



Good point, I agree. What's unfortunate is that there has not been a defined standard for testing HDMI cables and connectors, let alone manufactures don't implement HDMI consistently. Many other forms of data cables (essentially what HDMI is) have well established protocols and testing methodology - although most test equipment and methodologies are beyond the average consumers reach.


Point is, if you don't provide a mechanism to test the connection, the cable will _never_ be the culprit. It will always be the device







After all, it's just a cable right?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonnieW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Point is, if you don't provide a mechanism to test the connection, the cable will _never_ be the culprit. It will always be the device
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all, it's just a cable right?



Interesting. I read an article recently of some of the consumer electronics companies including a "HD Ready" like label as the support related to poor cables has been climbing.


From the Denon FAQ an interesting note


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by * http://ca.denon.com/2082.asp * /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What Should I know about HDMI connections and cables?
> 
> 
> The operation of a product by means of an HDMI connection is guaranteed only when a cable certified by the HDMI standard is used. Product performance can not be guaranteed when a cable not certified by the HDMI standard is used, as signal degradation of the high frequency digital signal can occur. This is often confused as a problem with the device rather than the cable itself. Typical performance failures from uncertified cables can include no picture, blinking (on/off) display, pixilation, sandstorm type of interference and poor quality picture. The HDMI logo is not a certification that the cable has passed the HDMI standard guaranteeing product performance.
> 
> 
> CABLES THAT HAVE BEEN CERTIFIED BY THE HDMI STANDARD
> 
> 
> At present, the following cables that have confirmed HDMI certification are as follows:
> 
> 
> Manufacturer Model Name Types of Cable (length)
> 
> 
> JAE DC1 Series 4 types: 1.5, 2, 3, and 5 meters
> 
> 
> Radio Shack NA 3 types: 1.8, 3.6 and 4.9 meters
> 
> 
> Sony DLC-HM Series 3 types: 1.5, 3, and 5 meters
> 
> 
> Audio Technica ATMX Series 3 types: 1.5, 3 and 5 meters


----------



## DrJRapp

That's probably a bit dated. I'm sure by now there are more certified cables available.


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting. I read an article recently of some of the consumer electronics companies including a "HD Ready" like label as the support related to poor cables has been climbing.



Hopefully you didn't misinterpret my point which was that of the testing of cables, not certifying them. One can certify a product to a set of standards, I agree. The issue at hand is that of not being able to _test_ the cable at the point of installation, or in this case, at the point one experiences problems.


Although I can digress into cable theory I'd rather quote what I believe is an accurate summary of current HDMI certifying. It is from Blue Jeans Cables:

"I can hear you asking: "but the HDMI organization requires compliance testing, doesn't it?" Indeed it does, but the details of that compliance testing are not what people sometimes expect them to be. First, under HDMI 1.2 and below, there were no "layers" of compliance testing. Cables either tested compliant, or they didn't. Under HDMI 1.3, there are now two layers of compliance testing possible, one called "Category 1," equivalent to the prior spec, and the other called "Category 2," a higher-bandwidth spec. But this "Category 2" criterion doesn't correspond neatly to any commonly-recognized characteristic like a resolution (e.g. 1080p) or color depth (e.g. 32-bit); the fact that a cable passes Category 2 testing doesn't mean it will perform at any particular standard in actual use.


Now, here's the kicker. Compliance testing is required only for a manufacturer's first product in a product category. So if one is a manufacturer of cable, all that has to be done is to meet compliance testing, once, for a single batch of cable. After that, no external compliance testing is required by the HDMI organization at all. One can build, for example, a 24 AWG cable with PE dielectric and bare copper conductors, have compliance testing done on it, and then go on to build a cable of a completely different design--say, a polyolefin dielectric, with 28 AWG tinned copper conductors--and do no compliance testing at all.


And the kicker has a kicker. The product submitted for compliance can be of any length; so HDMI compliance testing protocols tell you that an HDMI adopter has, at some unknown time in the past, built a test sample of unknown characteristics and unknown length, which passed HDMI compliance testing. That test sample may bear no resemblance whatsoever to the cable you're buying. Reassuring, huh?


So, the fact that a manufacturer has established official HDMI spec compliance means, in practical terms, nothing. The HDMI adopter agreement does require manufacturers to carry out their own testing of products, but establishes no particular standards for doing so, and it's a fair bet that few of them do any ongoing testing at all."


As an aside, I read an article on another site that analyzed a number of long (+ 50') HDMI cables. Their objective was to establish whether those cables could pass 1080P without issues. I believe they all passed. I have a friend who bought one of those cables, primarily because he was under the impression it would support his 1080P setup. Although the cable was certified to pass 1080P, the cable was defective and led to much frustration.


Nothing is certain in electronics. All one can do is objectively analyze each component (pardon the pun) and determine where the problem is. Anything else is speculation. I probably would not have bough my Anthem if I took to heart everything I've read in this thread. Instead, I chose to buy one and conduct my own analysis and remediate any problems using objective methods. Problem is, I've not experienced a single problem


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonnieW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nothing is certain in electronics. All one can do is objectively analyze each component (pardon the pun) and determine where the problem is. Anything else is speculation. I probably would not have bough my Anthem if I took to heart everything I've read in this thread. Instead, I chose to buy one and conduct my own analysis and remediate any problems using objective methods. Problem is, I've not experienced a single problem



I wish I had your problem....


----------



## gostan

A comment on the hdmi cable debate. I was using the generic hdmi cable that came packaged with my Series 3 Tivo connected to HDMI input 2. It was working fine for 4 days until I disconnected my turntable (aux-analog direct)today to install some upgrades. All of a sudden, no cable over hdmi or satellite over hdmi. Why a disconnect of audio cables would affect hdmi connnected decices is a mystery.


After trying numerous resets and plugging and unplugging cable, a simple swap of the no-name hdmi cable for a better made hdmi cable provided the solution to the lack of video and audio via TV and satellite. All is well again.


----------



## DonnieW

HDMI is a mystery. It's got the potential to frustrate man to no end and discredit otherwise great audio/video components.


That's all I will say on HDMI. Back to loving my Anthem. First time I've wathced football with Anthem Logic and was impressed. It seemed to subdue some of the otherwise spotty encoding on OTA football games.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Some people have had HDMI cable induced issues with the D2, but to say that cables are responsible either all or in part for the D2s reputation for unreliability is misleading.



Y would you call it misleading

I would call it a correct statement


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why a disconnect of audio cables would affect hdmi connnected decices is a mystery.



I have 2 Ultralink Pro plantinum HDMI ICs that won't work with one socket in the D2 while the cheapie that came with the the Oppo 970 that does, however when I use 6" jumpers made by Copperhead on the end plugged into the D2 they all work. It's got to be the mechanical tolerances.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonnieW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI is a mystery. It's got the potential to frustrate man to no end and discredit otherwise great audio/video components.



Well said.


----------



## elmac

Sound and Vision Magazine just review AVM50

You should all read it: Here 

"BOTTOM LINE While the AVM 50's $4,699 price might seem hefty for anything but a huge flat-screen, it's actually two state-of-the-art products in one. That officially qualifies it as a sweet deal. Do I have any complaints? Well, its remote control could be updated with additional buttons to let users quickly switch aspect ratios and access picture controls things that you now have to dig a couple of onscreen menus deep to get to. Outside of that, I've got nothing but deep, unabashed love for this Anthem combination."

COOL


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Can the D2 be used to stretch the video for a 2.35 constant height setup?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> "Outside of that, I've got nothing but deep, unabashed love for this Anthem combination."



And now the are 3...







Kris Deering, me, and now Sound & Vision magazine. 3 glowing reviews. 3 reviewers with the same conclusion...


Is it a canadian magazine?







Just kidding...


----------



## MStanic

Okay, I picked up a D2 to replace my D1. Quickly hooked it up yesterday.


I'm not that easily impressed but this thing (out of the box & quick setup) has better steering in surround. The precision & effect is truly amazing. So far so good.


Now, waiting to decide on my TV. Debating between Eilte PRO-1540HD or Sony KDS-R60XBR2. Any opinions on either of these sets. The Elite won't do 1080p but the Sony will. Any advantage/disadvantage having this or not with the D2.


Is there any purpose to the video scaler in the D2 if you're outputting 1080i or 1080p natively?


Currently, using component on my Sony 51-KPHW Rear Projection. I see the picture looks different (trying to get accustomed to it). The D2 is doing something even with component? Dumb questions because I'm just trying to familiarize myself with this PREAMP video section.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, I picked up a D2 to replace my D1. Quickly hooked it up yesterday.
> 
> 
> I'm not that easily impressed but this thing (out of the box & quick setup) has better steering in surround. The precision & effect is truly amazing. So far so good.
> 
> 
> Now, waiting to decide on my TV. Debating between Eilte PRO-1540HD or Sony KDS-R60XBR2. Any opinions on either of these sets. The Elite won't do 1080p but the Sony will. Any advantage/disadvantage having this or not with the D2.
> 
> 
> Is there any purpose to the video scaler in the D2 if you're outputting 1080i or 1080p natively?
> 
> 
> Currently, using component on my Sony 51-KPHW Rear Projection. I see the picture looks different (trying to get accustomed to it). The D2 is doing something even with component? Dumb questions because I'm just trying to familiarize myself with this PREAMP video section.



New Elite will

Check out

Elite PRO-FHD1

I'm running 720p and 1080i to my PJ and the clarity of 1080p

gets me going on the next upgrade. I like PJ's but Plasma would be my choice. If i would have $ for it. Grays and blacks are more detail on plasma or even DLP than SXRD or LCD

just waiting for 1080p 40" plasma screen to become available on the market this thing will be placed behind my screen for games and kids watching movies.

BTW you do wanna if you can use 1080p from D2. IMHO D2 gives you the best video processing on the market for 720p, 1080i and 1080p


----------



## MStanic

The PRO FHD1 is only 50 inches...too small for viewing for me. I'll be 8 to 12 feet away depending on where I'm sitting. The new ELITE 60 PRO 1540HD will not do native 1080p...the FHD1 will.


What does it mean if the set will put out 1080p but not in native mode? Apparently, the PRO 1540HD will do it but not natively? Is this where the D2 would come into play for a non native 1080p? Again, confused about the video aspect but trying to learn.


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What does it mean if the set will put out 1080p but not in native mode? Apparently, the PRO 1540HD will do it but not natively? Is this where the D2 would come into play for a non native 1080p? Again, confused about the video aspect but trying to learn.



Thats correct.

U do wanna use your native resolution of your display and send everything from D2 at that resolution in your case would be:

1365 x 768 if you decide on 1540HD

or

1920 x 1080 if you decide on Sony SXRD


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And now the are 3...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kris Deering, me, and now Sound & Vision magazine. 3 glowing reviews. 3 reviewers with the same conclusion...



Make it 4 mow.










Brent Butterworth in Home Entertainment September/October 2006. The combo D2/P5 is doing the front cover of the magazine, and here's the title:


"1080p video, 1625 watts, 0 complaints, D2 & P5 surround sound gear"


----------



## Kishore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, I picked up a D2 to replace my D1. Quickly hooked it up yesterday.
> 
> 
> I'm not that easily impressed but this thing (out of the box & quick setup) has better steering in surround. The precision & effect is truly amazing. So far so good.



I presume you used HDMI audio input to D2?


I thought audio from D1 should be identical to that of D2, and only video processing/HDMI is the add on to the D2 (over D1).


Cheers,

Kishore


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kishore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I presume you used HDMI audio input to D2?
> 
> 
> I thought audio from D1 should be identical to that of D2, and only video processing/HDMI is the add on to the D2 (over D1).
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Kishore



The fact that HDMI has been provisioned means there is a perceivable difference in sound, at least compared to the 6-channel analog that the D1 is limited to. That is if Kishore was comparing the multi-channel analog to HDMI??


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonnieW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought I'd share details on the components I've got connected to the 4 HDMI ports on my AVM 50. Results as indicated:
> 
> *Denon 3910 Universal Player* = Perfect functionality with both audio and video. PCM is the selected output. Handshake is quick


----------



## DrJRapp

Most cables will pass 720P or 1080i with only a few problems, however once 1080P's bandwidth requirement comes into play, many longer length cables (those over 25-30 ft) will falter.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Most cables will pass 720P or 1080i with only a few problems, however once 1080P's bandwidth requirement comes into play, many longer length cables (those over 25-30 ft) will falter.



Not only the long one, but alot of short one also. 1080p/60 with audio is a problem for alot of different brands of HDMI cables on the market.


----------



## DrJRapp

Al


You have the experience in that area that I don't. What happens if the cable only needs to pass the video, such as to a projector?


Are you going to be testing the Sony Pearl? Nick say's not to assume that the Pearl will work trouble free with the D2 just because the Ruby does. This is probably valid due to differing drivers, etc. I've ordered a Pearl, but since I'm trying to put all the grief and frustration behind me and start enjoying the thing, I'm afraid I might be putting myself right back where I started.


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Al
> 
> 
> You have the experience in that area that I don't. What happens if the cable only needs to pass the video, such as to a projector?



It will still depend heavily on the cable and what it is comprised of. 1080i uses 2.2gbps of bandwidth, theoretic max. 1080P uses twice that. Therefore, a cable of the 5gbps variety may struggle.


Audio adds lots more overhead. Additionally, the fact that more color information is slated for HDMI 1.3 and you've got even more data trying to go down the wire. My colleagues and I have been measuring HDMI cables for some time now and have yet to see a cable 'top out' due to lack of bandwidth. We've got plenty of experience from our old networking days where there are many defined maximum length restrictions - i.e. we know what we're looking for. The main killer of signal is attenuation. So the better the cable (shielding) the less attenuation. That said, the sensitivity of the end device plays a factor in whether or not a signal is maintained.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You have the experience in that area that I don't. What happens if the cable only needs to pass the video, such as to a projector?



Same thing. Some cables are ok with 1080i, but struggling with 1080p, be it a long or a short cable. It's working or it's not. But there is alot more problems with cables and 1080p then 1080i.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you going to be testing the Sony Pearl?



I don't know, probably not. But one of my friend with a D2 is getting a Sony Pearl soon, so I will know if everything is working fine. But never assume that because the Ruby is problem free that the Pearl will be. It can be... but we never know what will happen when HDMI-HDCP is in the equation...











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've ordered a Pearl, but since I'm trying to put all the grief and frustration behind me and start enjoying the thing, I'm afraid I might be putting myself right back where I started.



Great! I'm sure the Pearl/D2 combo will give you alot of satisfaction. But just like the Ruby, the Pearl needs to be carefully calibrated wth your video chain (screen, projector, scaler and all your players). If you can't do it yourself, you should think of getting in touch with a good ISF calibrator or a friend with the tools to perform a good calibration (Colorfact, OpticOne, etc).


It's also important to calibrate for 480i and for 1080i separately, and since there is new 1080i test patterns now circulating on the net, it's really important to calibrate both resolutions.


What screen are you planning to use with the Pearl? Dimensions?


I hope everything will go fine for you this time Jerry.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What screen are you planning to use with the Pearl? Dimensions?
> 
> 
> I hope everything will go fine for you this time Jerry.



I'll be using my current 100" 16x9 Stewart Firehawk G2, if down the road the reports on the new SSP screens are good, I can always change out the fabric.


I'm hopeing it will too since I'm really a a/v user not a a/v tinkerer. Thanks for the support.


----------



## mjavman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not only the long one, but alot of short one also. 1080p/60 with audio is a problem for alot of different brands of HDMI cables on the market.



A buddy of mine found these guys at CEDIA. Uses microprocessors embedded in the cable, so uses standard copper, so should be nearly the same price of standard HDMI and way less then optical. Showed demos of 10 meter cable at 1080p! Seems like it works both short and long runs.

http://www.vizionware.com/ 


I'm only waiting on my Panny 65" 1080p unit at the end of October, and I will put everything together using these cables.


----------



## nkb

Well, for those that have followed my trials and tribulations with the D2, the other shoe finally dropped. The fifth D2 was my last and final unit. The 5th unit overheated no matter (unless I put a big external fan on it). It would take about 40 minutes from power on to heat up such that the setup screen became flakey.


No promised fix from Anthem has been forthcoming.


This was the final straw. My dealer took the D2 back (his suggestion) and swapped me for a new well-known high-end A/V pre/processor, straight across, even though the new unit is 30% more expensive than the D2.


I picked up the unit today and it is rock solid and a tremendous performer.

No video scaling though. However, I found running material from my Marantz DV9600 at 720p into my latest model Fujitsu 50" plasma provides an excellent picture. I even checked this with the HQV test disk and found that while not quite as good as the D2 across all the tests it was still very, very close. HDTV from SAT also looked excellent. SD varies a lot but it varied a lot with the D2, as well. My biggest concern moving to this other pre/pro was the lack of a scaler. But, I have been pleasantly surprised that I don't really miss it, yet. If it gets to that point I will add an external scaler.


I think the D2 could, in the end, once they get things ironed out (modified), potentially be an exceptional piece of equipment. But, for a few of us, I am sorry to say this promise is as yet unrealized. It is wonderful that for some the D2 is performing well. That's great and I don't think your passion for the unit is necessarily misplaced. Some of us just didn't fare as well.


At this point, my saga with the D2 is ending. My dealer is doing the "right thing" by taking the D2 back and providing me with a highest quality, more expensive, pre/pro at no additional charge. Clearly I have an exceptional dealer (I am also a very good customer). Moreover, I really cannot fault Anthem for their efforts per se. They really tried with me and my 5 units to get me a stable, performing D2. There was never a hesitation to provide me with a replacement unit and they did so promptly even though production was many times sold out. They just have some problems with the D2 that they need to get through. I, for one, just do not the have time and energy to continue. After all, I have struggled with this for more than 4 months and 5 units.


My experience is certainly many standard deviations out from the norm even compared with those who have experienced problems. Time to hang it up and move on.


Sincerely, and without rancor, good luck to all.


----------



## DrJRapp

I'm kida curious where your D2 was located....was it in a cabinet? I bring this up because I have a potential solution for those memebers that have D2s that are in cabinets that are experiencing some heat distress.


----------



## nkb

My last D2 overheated even when in an open setting. No cabinet, no nearby equipment, no other heat sources, no blocked ventilation. Ambient temperature ~70 degrees F.


----------



## randman

nkb - sorry to hear things didn't work out for you. As for me, my D2 works great. I have a temperature sensor about 1" away from the right side of my D2 (towards the rear where it feels most warm). Before turning on my D2, the ambient temperature, according to the temperature sensor, is about 71 degrees Fahrenheit. After watching for 2 to 3 hours, the temperature rises only about 3 degrees, and that's with the temperature gauge only 1" away. My rack is a Salamander rack, and is open in the rear. The front and sides are perforated steel. I have about 8" or so of free space above the D2. The temperature sensor is connected to a fan that turns on if the temperature hits 80 degrees. The fan has NEVER turned on. In summary, no heat problems for me.


----------



## MStanic

Is it normal for the D2 to take 2 or 3 seconds to grab the picture when first feeding it an image (it's like a series of distorted images for 2 seconds or so before the image locks)? This happens when playing from either of my DVD players or SAT cable box.


Now, what I also noticed is that while a movie is playing, the signal seems to go for a second or two every now and again (same as when I'm first trying to play it). It happens with both DVD players & two different movies. I have the Main Output set to Component for now as I'm waiting to get my new TV with HDMI. I'm using a Pioneer 47ai which shows 480P when playing "Don't Say a Word" and the Sony DVP NS775V which shows 480i on the D2 when playing King Kong. When playing from my ExpressVu HD Box, same to grab picture, but rock solid when it play showing 1080i on D2. I had no issues with video on the D1 using the same players/movies. I'm using V1.06 which is what my D2 came with...latest as per their web page.


----------



## jkmw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now, what I also noticed is that while a movie is playing, the signal seems to go for a second or two every now and again (same as when I'm first trying to play it). It happens with both DVD players & two different movies.



MStanic,


This is pretty much what my first D2 did regardless of source. If I recall correctly, I was running HDMI from DVD to D2 and component from hd dvr to D2, then HDMI from D2 to ruby. Mine just went to a blank screen for a second or two, (black since this is what I picked as background color), then came back on. After reading about all the heat problems I bought a high power 4 fan system that sucked the hot air out the top of the D2 and blew it into the room. It is entirely possible that the interval between 'blinks' grew to several minutes, maybe as many as 10, but it may also have been my imagination.


The short of it is that after an email conversation with the techs at Anthem, their recommendation was to return it to my dealer for exchange. Sound Works in Kensington MD took care the exchange without a fuss. I requested that I be allowed to keep the defective unit until the replacement arrived and this was agreed to by everyone.


The new unit has been working flawlessly for several months now, (with fan positioned over the hot rear end). Don't know if the fan has helped make the difference or not.


jkmw


----------



## MStanic

Just wrote to Anthem......what a shame if it's defective. Let's see what they say. Thanks jkmw.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> MY D2 is connected to my infocus pj via 50 feet of HDMI cable and it is working fine.



Can you share the cable manufacturer you used and/or a link? I'm interested in running DVI-HDMI from PC into a D2.


My graphics card has component out, and I tried connecting to the D2 with a 50' component cable. Works, but the picture is extremely blury. So I'm hoping I'll have better luck with a digital cable. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Krops,

Keep in mind that the electronics used to implement the DVI standard are not as robust as those used to implement the HDMI standard since DVI was originally designed to connect computers to their monitors (i.e., relatively short cable runs), and its use for home theater installations is kind of a stretch. Thus if either end of the cable connection is DVI you will likely run into length limitations sooner than if both ends are HDMI -- even given the same quality of cable.


With HDMI electronics at both end of the cable, the connection protocol used includes more tolerance for degraded signals.


The issue is in the "industry standard" driver chips in the units at each end of the cable (i.e, the chips that actually generate and receive the signals running along the cable) -- as opposed to the cable connectors or the shielding or the quality of the wires in the cable. So for example, there's no point in trying an HDMI to HDMI cable with an HDMI to DVI adapter at either end. Such an arrangment will work no differently than an HDMI to DVI cable of the same quality and length. There are design and manufacturing variations from device to device of course so you may just luck out and have a long DVI to HDMI cable work just fine between your PC and the D2.


There are (expensive) fiber optic versions of DVI cables that are suitable for long cable runs. There are also such things as DVI repeaters, and DVI switches which generally include repeaters, that essentially let you start over as regards measuring cable length limits for normal, wire cables. But not all HDMI/DVI devices are capable of properly performing the HDCP (copy protection) handshake through a DVI switch. So it would be best to try the cabling combo you want to use (including the specific length of cables) with everything out of the walls first before you embed stuff where it might be hard to replace.


[Note that many PC DVI monitor outputs, particularly the older ones, won't even implement HDCP. This is not a problem, and in fact should make it easier to implement the connection with the D2. HDCP is a nuisance standard that gives you nothing and just makes the content providers happy.]


----------------------------------------------------------------


You should also try SHORT component cables (under 6 feet) between your PC and the D2 to make sure there isn't some other setup issue which was causing the blurriness you were seeing with the long component cables.

--Bob


----------



## akopperl

I recently purchased an AVM-50. I have an HD TIVO (HR10-250) connected via HDMI to the AVM-50. When I set the video output to 1080p/60, the picture goes in and out and occasionally comes up as snow (works fine at 1080i/60). My TV is the JVC 61FN97 which supports a 1080p input. The HDMI cable is 13 ft. long purchased from HDTV Supply. They represent that the cable was tested to pass 1080p.


Any ideas regarding what may be wrong? Settings? HDMI cable? Unfortunatley it is not easy to diagnose as I do not have any 1080p sources other than the Anthem. I also do not have any other HDMI cables. If necessary, I will purchase another set of HDMI cables (maybe from Better Cables) and return the others to HDTV Supply.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

akopperl,

A 13 foot HDMI to HDMI cable should not be too long, but of course it might be a flakey cable.


First eliminate that something strange may be going on with the source side of this -- i.e., the HR10-250 to D2 connection. Do this by selecting a D2 input that has nothing connected to it.


Now go into Setup/Video Output on the D2 and choose 1080p/60Hz output. When you accept this change does the Setup screen come back and appear stable? If the Setup screen is stable, Back out of Setup (leaving 1080p/60hz set) and then press and hold the D2's "7" key until those menus come up. The video should be a blue screen except for those menus since the source you have selected on the D2 has nothing coming into it. Are those menus displayed and stable?


If the Setup menu display and the menus under the "7" key are both displayed properly after you have selected 1080p/60Hz output then your problem is likely *NOT* on the output side of the D2 but rather the input side. Even though things work fine at 1080i, your HR10-250 might be getting confused in its handshake to the D2 when the D2 is told to output 1080p.


If that's the case, one easy thing to try is to set Repeater = NO on that input of the D2 which will reduce the communication the HR10-250 tries to do with your display (through the D2). It is also possible that your HDMI cable between the HR10-250 and the D2 is the one that is flakey.


If, however, you can't get stable output (Setup screen and "7" menus) at 1080p while using an empty D2 input, then the problem is entirely on the D2 output side. One easy thing to try is to switch the HDMI's Setup / Video Output / Sync setting to the other setting. Your choices are Inverted and Normal. The "correct" setting should produce a stable picture that doesn't require any significant amount of horizontal positioning adjustment. The incorrect setting will produce no picture or a picture that is offset horizontally at the "default" positioning settings of the D2 and your display (perhaps, or perhaps not, within range of your ability to adjust it back again). It is possible that your TV requires a different D2 setting here for a 1080p input vs a 1080i input.


If switching the Sync setting doesn't do the trick for you, then you really should try a different cable between the D2 and your TV. Your current cable may have a manufacturing flaw or may have been damaged later. Get the new cable from a place with an easy return policy in case it doesn't fix the problem for you. If convenient, it would be best to test first with a short, high end cable (i.e., about 4 to 6 feet) to maximize the chances of the cable working. If that works, then try a new, longer cable.


If a new cable doesn't do the trick for you, then you could have a faulty input on your TV or a faulty D2. It's probably easiest to first bring the D2 to your dealer and connect it up (using a high quality, shortish cable) to one of his store TVs that handles a 1080p/60hz signal. Again you won't need any input device to do this test. Just use the D2's own video generation (Setup menu and menus under the "7" key -- for example the bar charts) to see if the D2 is sending out a 1080p signal the dealer's TV can handle.

--Bob


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Krops,
> 
> Keep in mind that the electronics used to implement the DVI standard are not as robust as those used to implement the HDMI standard since DVI was originally designed to connect computers to their monitors (i.e., relatively short cable runs), and its use for home theater installations is kind of a stretch. Thus if either end of the cable connection is DVI you will likely run into length limitations sooner than if both ends are HDMI -- even given the same quality of cable
> 
> 
> .....



Bob, thanks for the input - did not realize the differences in HDMI/DVI standards.


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nkb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My last D2 overheated even when in an open setting. No cabinet, no nearby equipment, no other heat sources, no blocked ventilation. Ambient temperature ~70 degrees F.



Kind of strange. Acording to Cedia reports Anthem said they had a fix for this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

tycoondog2,

Ah, yes, the mystery fix. Surely by now SOMEBODY on this thread has actually had this fix implemented for them by Anthem or, at least, has details as to just what the purported fix entails.


The more time passes, the more this particular report from CEDIA sounds fishy.

--bob


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> tycoondog2,
> 
> Ah, yes, the mystery fix. Surely by now SOMEBODY on this thread has actually had this fix implemented for them by Anthem or, at least, has details as to just what the purported fix entails.
> 
> 
> The more time passes, the more this particular report from CEDIA sounds fishy.
> 
> --bob



It would be helpful if Anthem could be a little bit more forthcoming about issues

they are having, and what they are doing to fix them. Is it a QC problem? Are they doing a board redesign.


It seems that they are giving a whole new meaning to Bob and Weave










I will not order a unit until they can guarantee this problem is fixed.


And Lev I don't care if there are 3 great reviews out there and I don't need to to know that other manufacturers are having HDMI problems.


----------



## DrJRapp

Anyone having a heat issue with their D2, try raising your unit by about 1/2 inch (or 2 cm) by putting furniture coasters or the likes under the feet. Please report your results. Also, don't go sticking your cd cases or DVD cases under the front or sides. Don't sit the D2 on carpeting as the feet will sink into the carpet and narrow the ventilation space under the unit. These may seem intuitively obvious but I've actually seen really smart people do dumb things like that and block the intake perferations on the bottom of the unit.


----------



## wingnut4772

Hey Jerry,

I raised the D2 and you are right. It does run cooler. Even though my D2 is in a pretty well ventilated cabinet and I have a fan on it there is still an improvement by raising it.

Thanks


----------



## akopperl

Bob -


Thanks for your reply.


After trying all of your suggestions, I still had the same problem. I ordered a new set of HDMI cables and hopefully that will correct the problem. If not, it becomes a bit of a problem trying to determine whether it is the TV or the AVM-50.


----------



## rudolpht

Any word on new firmware, updates?


----------



## LEVESQUE

The new firmware will have alot of new things like:


-Custom resolutions

-1080p48 (for all those Sony Ruby users out there!)

-Multiple per-input memory banks


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The new firmware will have alot of new things like:
> 
> 
> -Custom resolutions
> 
> -1080p48 (for all those Sony Ruby users out there!)
> 
> -Multiple per-input memory banks



Al

Do you know if the 1080p48 is applicable to the Pearl. Also, Nick indicates we can expect much better HDMI reliability if what you are testing correlates to what they are working on internally.


----------



## obie_fl

Just hooked up my replacement D2 and restored my settings using my laptop. Watched Fear & Loathing in Dolby TrueHD and all was perfect.










As far as I can tell the HDMI connectors on the new unit are identical to my original. I'm actually thinking of downgrading my 24 gauge HDMI input cables to some cheap Monoprice cables just to see if they work. The thicker cables put a lot of strain on the connectors.


----------



## Bill Mac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just hooked up my replacement D2 and restored my settings using my laptop. Watched Fear & Loathing in Dolby TrueHD and all was perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as I can tell the HDMI connectors on the new unit are identical to my original. I'm actually thinking of downgrading my 24 gauge HDMI input cables to some cheap Monoprice cables just to see if they work. The thicker cables put a lot of strain on the connectors.



Tom,


Excellent looking HT, but you have to upgrade those pictures. That Outlaw doesn't look anything like the D2. If a certain someone from the av123 forum saw that he would be upset. That being nobbie, he should post over here. He could reach 10,000 posts in about a week and have everyone taking pictures







.


Bill


----------



## obie_fl

Yea that rack picture is pretty dated. There isn't a single piece of gear in that picture still installed.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Al
> 
> Do you know if the 1080p48 is applicable to the Pearl.



Yes. The Pearl can accept 1080p24 and 1080p48 over HDMI. The Ruby can only do 1080p48 over DVI and 1080p24 over component.


----------



## BLS

I've been reading this thread from the begining and may be ready to buy a D2 soon. I realize there are some problems. If I was looking for a better surround processor, which ones compare to the D2?


I like Anthem's service and I'm into high quality sound. The video processor is a bonus only because it does a top notch job. There are many others that have switching/processing that are unecessary fluff because they do an average job on video.


I like that it's made here in America and I can talk to an engineer familiar with it's construction, operation and future upgrade capability.


HDMI sucks! Well, it's ok when it works.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BLS* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I like that it's made here in America



It's made in Canada, but we get your point


----------



## BLS

Sorry, I thought it was made here. Is repair performed here? Customs delays would be undesireable. Not that I expect repairs, but it is important to know just in case.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BLS* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I was looking for a better surround processor, which ones compare to the D2?



Other pre/pros right now? None.










The HDMI Halcro's are really buggy, are using a run-of-the-mill video scaler, and the most important thing... it's not even passing multi-ch PCM over HDMI after more than 1 year on the market!







It's limited to 2 ch only over HDMI. So it's a no go if you want to use a HD-DVD player or a Blu-ray player with HDMI.


And it cost alot more then the D2. And you need a high-end scaler with it to match what the D2 can do video wise.


The Lexicon HD is a really pricey and simply a glorified HDMI switcher. It's not even able to pass 1080p!







And the video scaling is really sub-par...


And it cost like 2X the price of the D2. So you have to pair your Lexicon HD with a high-end scaler like the Crystalio II (around 4000$) to get the same level of video processing that you get with the D2. So now you are at approximately 3X the price of the D2... For the SAME PQ with the same Gennum chip!


And don't forget that Anthem are beta-testing a new firmware that will soon enable:


-custom resolutions (really easy to use with Livevideoeditor)

-multiple per-input memory banks

-custom gamma curves


So it will soon be on the same level "features-wise" then all the popular high-end scalers like the DVDO VP50 or the new Crystalio II, and PQ is also on the same level. Those scaler are not really offering you alot more for the price they are asking for...


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BLS* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry, I thought it was made here. Is repair performed here? Customs delays would be undesireable. Not that I expect repairs, but it is important to know just in case.



Seems to be that the local dealers are doing swaps if a unit has a problem. I'm sure they are sending them back to Ontario Canada for repair.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

BLS,

I've liked the Lexicon stuff in the past for home theater, but they've never been particularly "musical", and their current HDMI offering is a joke.


The D2 is one of those rare products that, at least for now, stands alone. This is what makes its faults so frustrating. It has the potential to be a new "classic" of home theater technology integration -- if only Anthem can refine it a bit more. It's not just what it does now, but how well it fits in with respect to other product developments going on around it. And there's really nothing else offering this combination of technologies right now. So the choice is either to live with its faults or to do without this level of integration.

--Bob


----------



## akopperl

I posted earlier about having an issue getting the AVM-50 to successfully output a 1080p/60 signal to my JVC 61FN97 TV. I purchased new cables from Better Cables and can now get the AVM-50 and JVC to sync (have to set sync to inverted). However, every 7 minutes the screen goes blue, flickers a few times then locks back in. This happens whether I set repeater to on or off for the source (DirecTV HD Tivo HR10-250). I doubt that HDMI cables would be the issue. Any ideas on what may be causing the problem?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

akopperl,

Sounds like you are making progress.


What you are likely seeing is the result of the HR10-250 periodically re-checking to make sure HDCP is still good on its HDMI output to the D2. It is likely failing on its first attempt and then trying again and getting a good handshake.


The way to diagnose this is to select a D2 input that has nothing connected and then put up a D2 generated image on your display -- e.g., one of the color bar charts from test patterns available under the D2's "7" key. Just leave that on screen for 10 minutes or so and verify that no flickering occurs.


Presuming you find this flicker really is associated with the HR10-250 being selected as the input source, then, yes, you first thought here should be to replace the HDMI cable between the HR10-250 and the D2 with a high end cable.

--Bob


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The D2 is one of those rare products that, at least for now, stands alone. This is what makes its faults so frustrating. It has the potential to be a new "classic" of home theater technology integration -- if only Anthem can refine it a bit more.
> 
> --Bob




My sentiments exactly.


----------



## akopperl

Bob,


Thank you for your reply.


I tried checking two other inputs. First, I tried my Oppo DV-970HD and I could not get the 1080p/60 output to work at all. I completely lost the picture. The Oppo was set to 480i output.


I then tried the CD input which does not have anything connected to it. I set the output to 1080p/60 - sync inverted and viewed the setup screens and some of the video patterns available after holding down the 7 key and the picture was fine - no flickering (viewed for about 11-15 minutes). The scaler input for CD was preset as s-video, HDMI repeater NA (I don't know if this affected the results).


Could the HDMI input cables be bad? The output cable is the longest (3 meters)and is the same brand/model as the input cables. (Note: The HD DVR HDMI input cable is also 3 meters in length, but the Oppo is only 1 meter in length.)


If it makes sense to buy a different set of cables - does anyone have a brand that they can recommend? Thus far I have tried HDTV Supply and Better Cables.


Thanks,


Anthony


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthony,

First, if there was no input signal coming in on the S-video when you selected the CD input, then no it doesn't matter that you used that one for your test.


The fact that you can get a stable image using the AVM-50's own generated images at 1920x1080p/60Hz means that you've got a good link to your display.


That means your problems are likely on the input side. You can nail this down totally by running component cables between your HR10-250 and the AVM-50 (disconnect the HDMI cable from the HR10-250). That should give you flicker free viewing and prove that whatever you are seeing is not a product of the AVM-50's scaler or it's output to your display or your display's ability to stay synced to that output.


-------------------------------------------------------------


Assuming that's the case, go back to HDMI from the HR10-250. While viewing TV from the HR10-250, press the Select key twice on the AVM-50's remote. That should show the input resolution from the HR10-250. Look for the characters "CP" at the end of that. They indicate a good HDCP handshake on that input. If you see "NP" instead, that indicates a failed HDCP, and means you will either get no image or the HR10-250 will periodically try again (depending on the output resolution you have set up in the HR10-250). However even if you see "CP" you should expect the source device to re-check periodically, and usually invisibly.


Now a bad HDCP handshake could be due to a faulty HR10-250 output or a faulty AVM-50 input, but most likely it is a cable problem -- a flakey cable or one that is not fully inserted at both ends.


There have been a number of high-end cable recommendations here: Monster Ultra 1000, Blue Jeans Cable, and at least one more whose name escapes me at the moment -- something Platinum. Check back a few pages in this thread.


You can also try moving to a different AVM-50 input. If the handshake is almost working, just a change like that could make enough difference in signal quality.


--------------------------------------------------------


Since you know your cable to the HR10-250, and its AVM-50 socket, is "almost" working. Try moving that cable from the HR10-250 to your Oppo to see if you can get its 480i output to work.


I'm not familiar enough with the Oppo, but many HDMI equipped DVD players require a special menu setting to activate their HDMI output -- i.e., it is inactive by default. Check that for the Oppo as well.

--Bob


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anthony,
> 
> First, if there was no input signal coming in on the S-video when you selected the CD input, then no it doesn't matter that you used that one for your test.
> 
> 
> The fact that you can get a stable image using the AVM-50's own generated images at 1920x1080p/60Hz means that you've got a good link to your display.
> 
> 
> That means your problems are likely on the input side. You can nail this down totally by running component cables between your HR10-250 and the AVM-50 (disconnect the HDMI cable from the HR10-250). That should give you flicker free viewing and prove that whatever you are seeing is not a product of the AVM-50's scaler or it's output to your display or your display's ability to stay synced to that output.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Assuming that's the case, go back to HDMI from the HR10-250. While viewing TV from the HR10-250, press the Select key twice on the AVM-50's remote. That should show the input resolution from the HR10-250. Look for the characters "CP" at the end of that. They indicate a good HDCP handshake on that input. If you see "NP" instead, that indicates a failed HDCP, and means you will either get no image or the HR10-250 will periodically try again (depending on the output resolution you have set up in the HR10-250). However even if you see "CP" you should expect the source device to re-check periodically, and usually invisibly.
> 
> 
> Now a bad HDCP handshake could be due to a faulty HR10-250 output or a faulty AVM-50 input, but most likely it is a cable problem -- a flakey cable or one that is not fully inserted at both ends.
> 
> 
> There have been a number of high-end cable recommendations here: Monster Ultra 1000, Blue Jeans Cable, and at least one more whose name escapes me at the moment -- something Platinum. Check back a few pages in this thread.
> 
> 
> You can also try moving to a different AVM-50 input. If the handshake is almost working, just a change like that could make enough difference in signal quality.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Since you know your cable to the HR10-250, and its AVM-50 socket, is "almost" working. Try moving that cable from the HR10-250 to your Oppo to see if you can get its 480i output to work.
> 
> 
> I'm not familiar enough with the Oppo, but many HDMI equipped DVD players require a special menu setting to activate their HDMI output -- i.e., it is inactive by default. Check that for the Oppo as well.
> 
> --Bob




That's a lot of good info Bob!


I've got an 'almost good' situation as well that I'll be attemtping to resolve based on your suggestions.


----------



## Monty Williams

Does anyone have the rackmount version of the D1 or D2? If so, could you post a picture of it, thanks!


----------



## obie_fl

I have the rack version. It looks just like the regular version except the ears aren't quite as wide and have two holes in each side. I'll see if I can snap a picture.


----------



## Monty Williams

Tom,


I'd appreciate it if you would. My D2 is the standard version, the rack mount version was backordered when I ordered mine. All my gear is rack mounted in a MA Slim5 with custom faces, etc except the D2. I emailed Anthem this morning about converting it over, but it will require a trip back to Anthem and a service charge. I was thiinking about buying another D2, but the rackmount version, and using the one I have at my lakehouse. The reason I'd like a picture is to see if the rack ears are flat or if they are still curved like the "wings" on the standard version because I have trim strips that cover the component mounting screws on my rack. If the ears are curved, I won't be able to use the trim strips. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm currently testing a Velodyne DD-15 with my D2. For those who don't know this subwoofer, it has a built in room EQ system with 8 parametric filters.


I'm kind of limited as to where I can place this beasty, so using the controls to tame the room resonances is a big deal for me.


Well by using the combo of the DD-15's features and the Anthem D2's features I've been able to achieve what strikes me as a surprisingly flat response over the full 15Hz to 200Hz range reported by the Velodyne's calibrated mike (via an an on-TV display that's updated in real time).


I'm using the D2's one parametric filter near the very top of its range to squelch the highest room resonance, and using the 8 filters on the DD-15 to handle the ones below that. I'm also using the D2's ability to overlap the cross-over frequencies for the main speakers and the subwoofer.


And finally, I'm using the D2's THX Ultra2 setting with "Boundary Gain Compensation" turned on to tame the very lowest frequencies. This last makes a BIG difference in taming the response of a sub placed in a corner.


Using the DD-15's live reponse graph, all of this actually went surprisingly quickly.


Time for some listening.....


---------------------------------------------------------------------------


While I'm doing that, here's a question for others who have played with this area of the D2's setup:


What is the purpose of specifying the sub as THX Ultra2 in the Room Response Filter portion of the speaker configuration?


The Boundary Gain Compensation setting (which apparently requires the Ultra2 setting as well) has a pretty obvious effect. But I can't figure out what the Ultra2 setting does all by itself.

--Bob


----------



## cargen

I've been using dual DD-15's with a D1 for 2 years (mated with 7 ceiling mounted Thiel Powerpoint speakers). The Velodyne's 8 parametric filters have enabled a nearly flat frequency response with the exception of a single valley no amount of compensation will correct. I haven't used the Boundary Gain Compensation setting.


I haven't messed with it for quite a while, but your post has spurred me to experiment some more with it this weekend.


I collect and watch a lot of music DVD's. I use an MX-3000 remote control equipped with DMX-3000 software to control a Sony CX-777ES DVD changer to navigate between the hundreds I own. I have macro buttons on the MX-3000 that automate switching to the D1's excellent audio music settings and the Velodyne's music settings. The combination enhances the music presentation substantially over standard movie settings. I'm looking forward to the first 3 music HD DVD's being released with Dolby Digital TrueHD audio on November 14 all pre-ordered via amazon.


Chris


----------



## randman

Bob - interesting info. I have the Velodyne SMS-1. Things are more or less flat, but a dip in the 80Hz range that's hard to correct. Maybe I'll try messing with the D2's settings as well to see if it helps.


----------



## Monty Williams

I have SMS-1 controlling a pair of M&K MX350 subs along with the D2, and ahve achieved a near ruler flat frequency response from ~16 - 200hz.


If you are having a big dip at 80hz, and your crossover is at that frequency as well, you might try adjusting the phase on your sub/SMS-1. Also, if you have multiple crossovers at the same frequency the culmination of multiple crossover slops could be to blame.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

randman,

Re your 80 Hz dip: First make sure the crossover in the Velodyne AND the crossover in the sub(s) it is controlling are ALL turned off. If your sub doesn't have a bypass for its internal crossover, then simply set it as high as you can to minimize its impact. The only crossover you want active is the one in the D2.


Assuming you still have a dip, the usual first step is to try shifting the sub around to a different location. Even a few inches of shift can help de-couple it from the room cancelation or resonance effect. However the details of construction of your room and limits on physical positioning may mean you can't eliminate such "room suck" just by moving the sub.


Next try adjusting the subwoofer phase to minimize cancellation in the vicinity of the crossover frequency. While playing low frequency "white noise" through the sub *AND* a main speaker (e.g., the left front), sit in your listening position and adjust subwoofer phase until you find the setting that produces (by ear) the *GREATEST* amount of the upper frequencies. You can adjust phase using any available phase control (i.e., in the D2, in the SMS, or on the sub(s) themselves). However, there's no point in fiddling with more than one control as they all do the same thing.


The Avia calibration DVD, for example, has a subwoofer test that produces the necessary sound on the LFE and left front channels together. Set it to "Repeat Pattern ON" before entering the subwoofer test area and it will keep looping long enough for you to try all the different phase settings.


The phase adjustment that lets you hear the most high frequency sound in this test is the setting where the sub and left front are producing the LEAST cancellation of each other's output in the frequency range where they are both playing -- i.e., near the crossover frequency. Try all the settings and you should be able to hear the timbre of the white noise change between mostly low bass (max cancellation) and a more uniform bass hiss including higher frequencies (min cancellation). That latter result is what you are looking for. The effect is usually subtle, but you'll hear it with careful listening.


If you still have an 80 Hz dip after phase adjustment -- and you likely will -- then the next step is to use the D2's "advanced" speaker configuration settings to set *DIFFERENT* crossover frequencies for the main speakers and the sub. For example, set the sub crossover to 90Hz and the mains crossovers to 70Hz. The crossover point is not a cliff -- there's a gradual change. By overlapping the frequency settings like this you add more contribution from both speakers right at the crossover point. Similarly, if you have a peak at the crossover, you can do the opposite setting to splay the crossovers and reduce the contribution of both speakers at the crossover.


Also, check that you are using an appropriate crossover point to begin with. The usual rule of thumb is to set the mains crossover at (roughly) *TWICE* their spec'ed low frequency response. E.g., if they are spec'ed to go down to 50Hz, then don't set their crossover much below 100Hz. However, given that limit, you have flexibility to pick the crossover that works best in your room. I.e., there's nothing magical about 80Hz for example unless you are really trying to hit the THX specifications -- futile if your room has a problem like this, unless you want to pay for room treatment. So pick the crossover center point that lets you overlap or splay the settings to deal with a room problem right at that center point.


I've found you can also get interesting results by playing off the D2's sub volume setting against the volume control in the sub itself. Lower one and raise the other (to maintain overall calibration balance with the mains) and you may get unexpected benefits near the crossover point. The live response graph in the Velodyne makes it easy to do such experiments.

--bob


----------



## tcowden

Monty,


The rackmount ears are curved. You can see a photo of them at the Anthem website if you go to the Custom Installation page and download the pdf.


Cheers,

Tom


----------



## Monty Williams

Thanks Tom, I see it now. For whatever reason, that PDF is not on the D2's custom installation page.


I guess I won't be able to use the anodized trim strips on the side of my MA rack to cover the mounting screws...


----------



## randman

Monty, Bob:


Thanks for the suggestions on getting rid of the 80 Hz dip. The only crossover that I use is the one on the D2. The SMS-1's crossover is disabled. The sub itself (Paradigm Servo 15, version 1) doesn't have a built-in crossover. I don't have much options in where to put the sub, so I'll try the phase adjustment first, and if that doesn't do it, I'll try the other suggestions.


Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I continue to be amazed at how sensitive bass response is to room conditions. It really is important that you do your testing with the room configured just the way you expect to use it during normal listening, or you will just confuse yourself and waste time.


I'm still playing around with the calibration of the Velodyne DD-15 with the D2 -- so many new tweaks to try! In any event, this morning I had a stubborn case of room suck around 50 Hz that wasn't there last night. Then I happened to close the closet door where I stash my stuff and voila that particular dip vanished! Apparently my closet likes to hoard 50 Hz sound waves.


So be sure you have furniture placement, rugs, pictures and other wall hangings, doors (open/closed), curtains (open/closed), etc., set the way you will most usually use the room for listening. And then don't CHANGE any of that stuff while you are testing different calibration settings or you won't know whether it was the new setting or the new room config that produced whatever difference you see/hear.

--Bob


----------



## sfield

I picked up an Anthem D2 recently, running 1.06 software, and just configured this. I have several problems enumerated down below.


I have three components hooked up via HDMI:


1. Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player. Set to 1080i output. HDMI->HDMI cable.

2. Dish 921 Satellite PVR. Set to 1080i output. DVI->HDMI cable.

3. HTPC computer, configured at 1920x1080p output. DVI->HDMI cable.


The HDMI output from the D2 feeds a Dtrovision DD-D12P 1in 2out DVI distribution amp. This in turn feeds a Westinghouse 37" LCD and a Sony "Pearl" projector.


The D2 is configured to output [email protected]


1. I find that the Toshiba HD-A1 always works correctly -- audio and video over HDMI.


2. The dish 921 video output behaves erratically. If I turn off all components, including the D2, and then power on with the input set to Dish921, the image is all magenta colored. If I go into the D2 video output menu, and manually toggle the color space from Auto->HDTV, and then jump out of the menu, the video changes to the correct mode. However, if I then turn on the HD-A1, and switch to that input, and then switch back to the Dish921 input, the image is all green saturated, and there is no way to fix this other than resetting everything and starting over. The main setup menu for the D2 remains the correct black background color, however.


3. There is no video output what-so-ever from the HTPC. It appears the D2 is not asserting the proper DDC/DVI related signals when the system boots, so the video card in the PC never outputs the DVI signal starting from the system boot. Perhaps the D2 doesn't recognize 640x480? Most external scalers have a way to configure this behavior (like the Lumagen), but I don't see a way to do this with the D2. I do have a small Dtrovision DDC DVI dongle that fakes the signal during boot, but this thing doesn't pass 1080p correctly, so I can't leave it in the video chain -- with this I verified the D2 doesn't display 640x480, but will pass 1368x768 correctly (but this configuration is not desirable).


4. When the D2 is set to output [email protected] to the Sony Pearl, the video is smooth for about 10 seconds, and then "stutters" for a couple of seconds, and this cycle repeats. This happens with film based content from both the HD-A1, and HD PVR film based material for the Dish 921. Does anybody else have this working smoothly?



This entire system was working fine from a video switching perspective at 1080p before swapping out a Dtrovision 4way DVI switch for the Anthem D2. I have played around with several video output modes in the D2, all to no avail.


Per BobP on another thread, I also switched out ALL of the HDMI cables, as well as using a direct HDMI connection from the D2 to the projector (bypassing the Dtrovision DD-12P). Same problems in this case.


Are discrete IR codes available for switching the output from 1080p @60 and 1080p @24 ?



Any insights?


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are discrete IR codes available for switching the output from 1080p @60 and 1080p @24 ?



I'm not aware of IR codes that do this. I don't have RS-232 control in my system, but looking at the spreadsheet containing the RS-232 code set (downloaded from Anthem's web site), it looks like there are discrete commands to change the video output format. There's a surprisingly large number of RS-232 commands available.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

sfield,

Did you have a chance to experiment yet with setting Repeater = NO in the D2 input settings for the sources giving you grief? The problems you report with the 921 really sound to me like a bad HDMI handshake between it and the D2.


---------------------------------------


Did you upgrade your D2 to the V1.06 firmware yoursef or did it arrive with that software already installed? If you did it yourself, were there any problems during that process?


We have a report here that Anthem is testing a beta version of new software which includes adjustable video signal timing. If you talk to Anthem tech support, they might have software for you to try as regards your HTPC problem. In particular, your report that the D2 won't handle 640x480 from your HTPC sounds very odd.


---------------------------------------


Here's another thing to try: Reconfigure the D2 to the settings that *SHOULD* work for you.


Now in the D2's Setup screen, Save User Settings. Then Restore Factory Settings. Then Restore User Settings.


Now look through your various Settings to make sure they all restored to what you expected them to be. If not, correct any differences and then Save User Settings again (for future use).


It is possible that some configuration setting in your D2 got corrupted, and this is a way to reset things.


------------------------------------------


On the color space issues, I just want to be sure you aren't getting confused by a misconfiguration of the video output to your display which you are then trying to fix by adjusting the INPUT color spaces and formats. You need to get the display output settings in the D2 correct FIRST, then adjust the D2's input settings as necessary.


Turn on the D2 and select a video input that has *NOTHING* connected to it. The entire screen should now be bright blue (not pinkish or greenish) -- the default screen the D2 puts up when it senses no incoming video signal. Now hold down the "7" key on the D2 remote until the video adjustment menus come on screen. The body of the menus should be pure white and the portion of the screen surrounding the menus should still be brignt blue -- again neither a pinkish nor greenish tint.


If the color is *NOT* as described then you have incorrectly set the D2's Setup / Video Output / Data Format value -- or alternatively your display is not properly configured to match the value you are trying to use in the D2. Bring up the Setup screen (which should be Red), try a different value, and Back out of Setup to check what results.


While you are at it, make sure the D2's Setup / Video Format / Color Space value is also set to "HDTV" so the correct color math is used for your Pearl.


If you make any changes in Setup / Video Output, be sure to accept the changes -- i.e., change "NO" to "YES" when asked to confirm you want to make such changes (when hitting "Back" to exit the Setup / Video Output screen).


--------------------------------------------------------------


Having confirmed that the Video Output color settings are correct, then now set the INPUT color space for each source device. Select the D2 input for each source device in turn, then press and hold the "7" key on the D2 remote. Scroll to Picture / Input Color Space. There should be two checkmarks -- one for what the D2 does if it receives a YCbCr signal and the other for what it does if it receives an RGB signal. The default settings (Auto YCbCr and Standard RGB) are most likely the ones you want to use for each of your source devices -- except that you may need to use Extended RGB if the graphics card in your HTPC uses computer style digital video encoding (e.g., Black = digital 0) as opposed to the "studio" encoding found in typical home theater content such as DVDs (e.g., Black = digital 16).


Finally, go into each of your source devices and make sure it is configured to OUTPUT the right stuff. For example, your cable box should likely be configured to output YCbCr 4:4:4 (instead of RGB) over it's HDMI output.


If you make any changes to these video adjustment menus for your various sources, you can save the entire set of changes by going back into the D2's Setup menu and Save User Settings. [Save Installer Settings does the same thing -- it's just a second memory that you might use while experimenting or as backup for your main settings.]


-----------------------------------------------------------------------


Now try things out. If you get a good image from a particular source, do a couple of things. First, press the Select key on the D2 remote repeatedly and note the status information it displays. For example, the second press will display the incoming video resolution and also whether there is a good HDCP copy protection handshake on the that connection ("CP") or not ("NP"). Depending on your source device and its resolution, you may or may not get an image displayed if the HDCP handshake is unhappy.


Next, press and hold the "7" key and then scroll to the Info panel in the on-screen menu. This will display details about what the D2 is receiving -- in particular whether it is RGB or YCbCr, and which format of YCbCr -- as well as what it is converting it to for output.


Note the values that are displayed when the image is good. If you get a bad image, go check those values again. Note any differences as they may very well lead you towards what's going wrong.


Keep in mind you will need to deal with each input source separately here.


Also, if you get a bad image, try this: Momentarily switch the D2 to a different input and then back to your desired input. This will force a new HDMI handshake.


It is also possible that your display has its own info screen that will confirm what it is receiving from the D2. The important thing is that this info SHOULD NOT CHANGE as you switch between D2 sources. The D2's scaling and color conversion is supposed to convert any video input to a single style of output. If your display is getting different stuff when you change D2 inputs then the most likely thing that is going on is that you have mistakenly connected your display to the Zone 2 or Record outputs of the D2 (which are, by default, pass-through) instead of the Main output.

--Bob


----------



## Xavier

Do D2 have parametric EQ build in?


----------



## BillW

They don't yet. It is one of the rumored upgrades that will be available, with no release date known. This would be something for the D2 and not the 50. l would guess not until the end of next year. And yes, that is a totally uninformed guess







.


l


----------



## obie_fl

Actually the D2 does have a Room Resonance Filter which is basically a one band parametric equalizer.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Actually the D2 currently does have one (and only one) generalized EQ, but it is specfically intended to help cure your worst room resonance in the bass frequency arena, so your ability to adjust its center frequency is limited by the current subwoofer crossover setting.


See the Room Resonance Filter page in the speaker configuration Setup options.


The D2 also has a variety of less adjustable filters for helping to cure a variety of EQ-ish problems. Some of these can only be toggled on and off, such as the "Boundary Gain Compensation" filter for deep subwoofers (e.g., THX Ultra2) placed in a corner or against a wall. Others have a set of fixed settings you can choose between such as the filter that helps deal with the muddying of voice related frequencies due to placing the center channel speaker against a wall or too near the surface of the display.


Other filters are not intended to solve EQ problems but rather are intended for use in specific listening conditions, such as the reduction of LFE channel dynamics when you don't want to wake the neighbors.


Anthem is on record that they are working on extending the set of general purpose EQ filters, as well as adding calibrated microphone sensing and an automatic room EQ setup process. This extra processing is supposedly dependent on the extra DSP power offered in the D1 and D2, and so would not be offered for, say the AVM-50.

--Bob


----------



## sfield

Bob,


I've tried all sources set to Repeater = NO, as well as setting just the 921 to NO and YES. That didn't have any impact on things.


The D2 came with 1.06 already installed. I believe there was a sticker on the outside of the box somewhere that said software v 1.06.


Note with the HTPC, the intended output resolution is 1920x1080p. It doesn't get this far, since the 640x480 BIOS boot graphic is never seen. That's even with the EDID dongle in place. Same behavior with/without the EDID dongle. Apparently, Gefen makes an EDID dongle that will pass 1080p, so that would be a work-around if all else fails. I expected this to "just work" though. Note the machine has a radeon 9600 XP/XT.


I will try resetting the saved settings tonight, and the other suggestions. Note the '7' output display options show the expected information, as does toggling through the various status indicator options.


It would be nice if a future software update also supported detection of film content, and then switched to 24fps output automatically. That's assuming this output rate works correctly with the Sony Pearl and the D2.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> sfield,
> 
> Did you have a chance to experiment yet with setting Repeater = NO in the D2 input settings for the sources giving you grief? The problems you report with the 921 really sound to me like a bad HDMI handshake between it and the D2.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
> Did you upgrade your D2 to the V1.06 firmware yoursef or did it arrive with that software already installed? If you did it yourself, were there any problems during that process?
> 
> 
> We have a report here that Anthem is testing a beta version of new software which includes adjustable video signal timing. If you talk to Anthem tech support, they might have software for you to try as regards your HTPC problem. In particular, your report that the D2 won't handle 640x480 from your HTPC sounds very odd.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Here's another thing to try: Reconfigure the D2 to the settings that *SHOULD* work for you.
> 
> 
> Now in the D2's Setup screen, Save User Settings. Then Restore Factory Settings. Then Restore User Settings.
> 
> 
> Now look through your various Settings to make sure they all restored to what you expected them to be. If not, correct any differences and then Save User Settings again (for future use).
> 
> 
> It is possible that some configuration setting in your D2 got corrupted, and this is a way to reset things.
> 
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

sfield,

Yes the auto change to 24fps video output (for displays that support it) has been discussed here. So far there's no indication that this is coming in the next software release.


When your HTPC image fails to show up, what does the D2 show as the input resolution it is seeing? Or is it saying "No Video"?

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Note with the HTPC, the intended output resolution is 1920x1080p. It doesn't get this far, since the 640x480 BIOS boot graphic is never seen. That's even with the EDID dongle in place. Same behavior with/without the EDID dongle. Apparently, Gefen makes an EDID dongle that will pass 1080p, so that would be a work-around if all else fails. I expected this to "just work" though. Note the machine has a radeon 9600 XP/XT.



You may be the first to get this to work, so interested if the dongle does it's stuff.


Few other trials & tribulations in the thread regarding HTPCs. Personally I switch to an HD2K after the AVM-50/D2 with a high qual HDMI switcher. Macros programmed, very seamless.


----------



## budeone

I look at these posts and get scared. I bought my avm-50 and should be here this week..


Has anybody just been able to take out of box and connect?


The directions seem easy.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

budeone,

Relax. It will probably go smoothly for you as it has for others here. These threads tend to fill up with posts from only those folks having problems or folks trying to push the system to its limits.


While you are waiting for your AVM-50 to arrive, the best advice I can give you is to see to your cables.


In particular, consider getting top end HDMI cables that are only just as long as you need them to be. Although this may be overkill, problems with HDMI connections can be particularly frustrating to debug because they tend to be intermittent. HDMI either works or doesn't however, so HDMI problems if any, will be pretty evident.


If you are using component video cables, good cables are also a help. Component video problems can sneak up on you -- you'll see a picture but it isn't as high quality as it could be.


Keep in mind that for some source devices -- particularly a DVD player that also plays the exotic audio formats such as SACD -- you may want to plan on more than one TYPE of video and/or audio connection to the AVM-50 so as to be able to use all of the features of your source device. For example, no player shipping today will pass multi-channel, high res, digital audio over an HDMI connection if you are currently playing an SACD disc (due to licensing restrictions from the folks who own the SACD standard). Running 6 channel analog audio cables to the AVM-50 will cover that base for you.


Also think about where you are going to place your AVM-50. It has a lot of electronics inside and will be happiest if it is in a location with good ventilation and no immediately adjacent heat sources.


The default settings in the AVM-50 are well thought out. So make changes to those settings gradually. Get the basics set up first, and once you are comfortable with that, then feel free to start playing with some of the fancier features. A good rule of thumb is to set each of your source devices to do the MINIMUM POSSIBLE processing of any audio or video content. Leave it to the AVM-50 to do all the work. So for example, your best results with a standard DVD player will be to have it pass 480i video (instead of 480p or video upscaled to 720p or 1080i). Leave it to the AVM-50 to do all the de-interlacing and scaling. Similarly, turn off video enhancement "features" in your other devices.


Finally, remember that the AVM-50 is at the center of electrical connections to lots of other stuff. So heed this advice: Turn EVERYTHING OFF -- even better, disconnect everything from wall power -- before connecting or disconnecting any cables between devices. Then double check that both ends of all connections are as you want them to be before you restore power to anything.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

Once again thank you Bob.


I bought the best cables that were offered at monoprice.


I took your advice and just bought a short cable for dvd to avm-50


The rest are 6-10-15 foot.. I didn't know how many to get so I just bought a bunch of them. I am sure I have way to many.


I only play movies from blockbuster or some other video stores so I don't think they play any crazy type of different sounds.. Just some have DTS that I love.


People think I am crazy for spending more on a pre-amp than I did for my TV..



I will know real soon.. I think I may stay away from this thread for a few days..lol


If this works they way I picture it will.. this will be 4500.00 spent well


----------



## dmorse4765

I purchased a D2 2 months ago and have no problems at all. The only minor problem was with the heat issue however it never caused any problems. For my own satisfaction I did install a fan in rear of my cabinet and the heat issue is gone. Anthem makes some very intelligent equipment. One day when I was installing some banana connectors I acidently pulled the optical cable from it's socket. When I turned everything back on all worked well except for my H20. The D2 would power on but after 10 seconds the D2 shut down. After re inserting the optical cable the H20 worked fine. If you do connect something wrong it has ways of telling you. You will love your D2 more than your wife.


----------



## BLS

I'm wondering what the lowest price paid for the D2 is here in the states.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

budeone,

All the sound you'll find on commercial DVDs (i.e., movies and such) will work just fine through your HDMI connection to the AVM-50. Regular stereo (and mono for old movies), Dolby Digital, DTS, and the extended versions of those for surround speaker setups that include rear speakers, will all work automagically. If you end up getting one of the new, high definition players (HD-DVD or Blue Ray discs), their higher res, multi-channel sound will ALSO come through the HDMI, and indeed that's by far the best way to hook them up.


The same is true for traditional CDs.


The problem only arises when playing the exotic music discs -- DVD-Audio or SACD -- that are sold as like CDs but better. The people who license those formats to player manufactureres put restrictions on digital audio connections that are only slowly being removed.


-----------------------------------------------------------------


But here's another example: If you have a set top box for TV (for example a cable TV box) which happens to have an HDMI output you will likely find you can get both video and top quality digital audio via an HDMI connection. However, if you have that box set to change output resolutions according to whether you are currently tuned to an SDTV or HDTV channel, then it will need to do a new HDMI/HDCP handshake each time you change from one to the other. This causes about a 1 to 2 second flicker in the video and there's really no way around it if you want the advantage of the digital video connection. Blame an industry obsessed with copy protection (HDCP).


But then AFTER the new channel's video locks in, you may find there is an ADDITIONAL 1 to 2 seconds before the AUDIO starts! This is another type of handshake. If your set top box happens to work this way, and you find it as annoying as I did, you may want to run a separate digital audio connection from it to the AVM-50 -- for example an optical digital audio cable. Then you'll still have the handshake delay for the video to lock in, but the audio will start right away.


Although the traditional digital audio connections (optical and coax digital audio cables) can not handle the high bandwidth required for exotic formats such as SACD, or audio from HD-DVD or Blue Ray discs, they will handle both the normal and the multi-channel TV audio just fine -- indeed identically to what the HDMI connection would have given you. So you lose nothing doing this.


The AVM-50 makes it easy to specify a different input for audio when using any HDMI socket for video.

--Bob


----------



## nkb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I look at these posts and get scared. I bought my avm-50 and should be here this week..
> 
> 
> Has anybody just been able to take out of box and connect?
> 
> 
> The directions seem easy.



If it gives you some additional comfort my dealer said that he (and other dealers) were not seeing the same "problems" with the AVM50 as with the D2.


My dealer says, for the moment, he will sell the AVM50 but not the D2 because of this.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BLS* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm wondering what the lowest price paid for the D2 is here in the states.



BLS, Sorry, but we're not allowed to talk street prices on this forum, only MSRP, so you probably won't get an answer to this. Your best best is to find your closest dealer and haggle with him. I will say that you will love the D2 if you buy one. Mine has worked flawlessly so far.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anybody just been able to take out of box and connect?
> 
> 
> The directions seem easy.



The D2, do mostly to HDMI HDCP issues has quite reached the point of plug and play. You may not be old enough to remember the early days of Windows plug and play where it had similar issues.


But the good part is you've got a lot of talent and experience here to help you thru any issues, however many (or few) you encounter.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I suspect the real distinction between D2 and AVM-50 installations is that the D2 owners tend to be the folks pushing the unit more to its limits.

--Bob


----------



## BLS

I read a lot about the HDMI issues and how good the Genum scaler is but what do you think of the sound.


I listened to a D2 hooked up to Paradigm speakers fed from an Integra 10.1 at a dealer couple months ago in Mesa. It sounded good, but as much as I enjoy listening to gear, I never enjoy it very much at a dealer. Way too many variables and you really need a lot of time and different material to even start to get an idea of whether it's a peice of gear you want. Especially at the D2 price.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BLS* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I read a lot about the HDMI issues and how good the Genum scaler is but what do you think of the sound.
> 
> 
> I listened to a D2 hooked up to Paradigm speakers fed from an Integra 10.1 at a dealer couple months ago in Mesa. It sounded good, but as much as I enjoy listening to gear, I never enjoy it very much at a dealer. Way too many variables and you really need a lot of time and different material to even start to get an idea of whether it's a peice of gear you want. Especially at the D2 price.



I can tell you that I think that, as far as films go, the D2 is as close to transparent to the source as I have heard in the home... and trust me... I know what the films should sound like







. And subjectively, I think it is very musical..


----------



## DrJRapp

The sound of the D2 weather in multichannel or stereo is superb. I can't say enough about it. I'm one of the people who have had "problems" with the HDMI, and I can't say for sure I'm out of the woods yet. All the while the thing that has kept me with the D2 is it's sound quality. It's important that I add that I am an audiophile first ande a videophile second. I'm using my D2 with some extremely high end gear, ie: Theta transpports and amps, Martin Logan Summit speakers, and I have yet to reach a point where I could call the audio of the D2 the weak link. I believe that many have never experienced the true aural joys of this device because they haven't married it up with sufficiently high quality speakers and sources.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The audio section of the D2 is basically the older D1 pre/pro which received numerous glowing reviews.


Home theater "surround sound" equipment in general has received a well deserved bad rep for audiophile-quality musicality -- witness some of Lexicon's older products for example. I bought my D2 expecting more of the same.


But I must say this beasty has surprised me. Purely from the audio perspective, the D2 has exceeded my expectations. If listening to music is your thing, it's going to take some doing -- and an exceptional amp and speaker setup -- to hear problems.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I bought a D1 just over two years ago. I really have enjoyed the audio quality. I have in the end spent more time listening to music than watching movies. A very nice sound.


----------



## BLS

I was used to listening to a Nakamichi preamp and amp and klipsch Forte speakers when I entered home theater for the second time. I'm skeptical of reviews because everyone glowed about the Denons and Sonys. I brought home a Denon surround sound receiver and it sounded horrible compared to my Nak. Took it back and tried a Sony. Same result. I think it was around the year 2000. I found a local dealer with a Marantz SR18. Brought it home and it was so far ahead in sound quality I couldn't beleive it. The other two were so harsh and compressed, the Marantz smooth and more open. And man I can crank it up and I've not once heard one bit of distortion.


The Marantz is getting long in the tooth compared to what's available now. If the power goes out it loses all settings.


I'm also an audiophile first, within my budgetary limits. Aren't most of us? To me the sound is the most important thing when auditioning a pre/pro. Then since it's the nerve center it's nice to have the ability to tweak and label inputs.


The D2 sounds very capable in this respect.


Does it have indicators on the front panel that tell you what the bit rate is for different inputs/outputs? For example playing a DVD-Audio that might be 24/192.


I'll admit six years have passed and improvements have been made.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

BLS,

Repeatedly pressing Select on the D2 remote brings up a sequence of status indications in the on-screen and front panel displays -- one of which is the current incoming data rate for audio.

--Bob


----------



## lotia

I'm a newbie to the Home Theater world so please excuse what may be a very stupid question. I'm considering a D2 as my pre/pro and will be using an HTPC running mythtv as my primary source for it. I'll be recording OTA hd and cable sourced sd content. I will also be using it to play DVD and other media files. I plan on having the HTPC send each file in it is native resolution to the D2. Will the D2 accept different resolutions on the same input and upscale/deinterlace it to the selected output resolution (which will be 1080p).


Also how is people's mileage with HTPCs connected to the D2 using DVI to HDMI cables? I will b using an Nvidia GeForce 6600 video card.


TIA

--

Ali


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lotia* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm a newbie to the Home Theater world so please excuse what may be a very stupid question. I'm considering a D2 as my pre/pro and will be using an HTPC running mythtv as my primary source for it. I'll be recording OTA hd and cable sourced sd content. I will also be using it to play DVD and other media files. I plan on having the HTPC send each file in it is native resolution to the D2. Will the D2 accept different resolutions on the same input and upscale/deinterlace it to the selected output resolution (which will be 1080p).
> 
> 
> Also how is people's mileage with HTPCs connected to the D2 using DVI to HDMI cables? I will b using an Nvidia GeForce 6600 video card.
> 
> 
> TIA
> 
> --
> 
> Ali



The D2 will resync when it receives a new resolution on it's input.. takes about two seconds.. I believe the new firmware will also allow different video settings for different resolutions on the same input.. or you could set up the same source (i.e. HDMI 1) on different inputs (i.e. DVD and Sat)... DVI > HDMI is source dependant, but should be ok for most.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 will resync when it receives a new resolution on it's input.. takes about two seconds.. I believe the new firmware will also allow different video settings for different resolutions on the same input.. or you could set up the same source (i.e. HDMI 1) on different inputs (i.e. DVD and Sat)... DVI > HDMI is source dependant, but should be ok for most.



Interesting. So, depending on the source resolution, we would be able to select 1080p/24 or 1080p/60? What happens if the input resolution is the same as the output resolution? I guess no scaling takes place, but the Gennum can still be used to adjust settings like color, hue, brightness, etc?


----------



## sfield




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting. So, depending on the source resolution, we would be able to select 1080p/24 or 1080p/60? What happens if the input resolution is the same as the output resolution? I guess no scaling takes place, but the Gennum can still be used to adjust settings like color, hue, brightness, etc?




I mentioned in a previous post that my HTPC set at [email protected] would not negotiate a video connection over DVI->HDMI. I also suspected this was an EDID issue, which turned out to be correct.


I put a Gefen DVI detective in place, which spoofs the EDID signal, and also passes 1080p correctly.


Now, the HTPC video output is visible on the Anthem D2, including the 640x480 boot video, as well as the [email protected] output.


HOWEVER, the D2 appears to be introducing noise in the output. This is clearly visible in small text. I have the D2 set to output [email protected] -- which happens to match the output from the HTPC. Bypassing the D2 avoids this noise in the output. Is there a way to bypass the scaler in this case? (It certainly doesn't appear to be bypassed). Note the '7' info screen showed signal type 1920x1080/60hz as the input, as well as the output.


Oddly, both the 921 and the HTPC DVI input info on the '7' display show Video Source: No Input, even though the signal type is valid. Also, the audio source says n/a. Is that expected?


The other problem I reported with the Dish 921, where the color goes magenta also happens with the HTPC if I switch to another input and then back to the HTPC. ( that includes switching to the Dish 921 and then back to the HTPC ). Also, the D2 got confused about the input HTPC resolution after this switch. The D2 displayed 1078P (!) as the input resolution.


I have not yet tried the suggestion of reseting to factory defaults.

Overall, the video processing and switching on DVI inputs appears very flakey, with 1080i and 1080p inputs. I will try Anthem support later this week.


I did determine the video output color space setting doesn't really impact the magenta/green issues. It seems that toggling the output color space works ONCE for addressing the magenta issue for the DIsh 921 unit, after powering on the device.


I am VERY pleased with the audio section of this unit.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

sfield,

You've certainly got enough info to make it worthwhile to work this with Anthem support. The EDID issue needs to be worked out of course. Your color space problems continue to sound like a bad handshake, but that could be due to a bad video board.


Doing the reset to factory defaults (and then restoring saved user settings) is a long shot, but it is easy enough to try so I'd still suggest you try it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Question for FilmMixer:


Have you reached any conclusions on the value of the THX post processing option in the D2?


Personally my subjective opinion is that I prefer the THX mode to be turned OFF for any non-cinematic content (e.g., TV non-film programs, or any music source), and to be turned ON for stereo, digital 2-channel and multi-channel film content -- EXCEPT when listening to DTS film tracks. For DTS film tracks I like it better turned OFF. In all cases I've left the factory default parameter settings unchanged.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

I like the THX mode. Especially for HD DVDs. This is the first time I have ever had gear with it and I previously poo pooed it but the Cinema mode is excellent.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question for FilmMixer:
> 
> 
> Have you reached any conclusions on the value of the THX post processing option in the D2?
> 
> 
> Personally my subjective opinion is that I prefer the THX mode to be turned OFF for any non-cinematic content (e.g., TV non-film programs, or any music source), and to be turned ON for stereo, digital 2-channel and multi-channel film content -- EXCEPT when listening to DTS film tracks. For DTS film tracks I like it better turned OFF. In all cases I've left the factory default parameter settings unchanged.
> 
> --Bob



As I am sure you know, the THX Re-EQ (see X-Curve Eq and THX) feature is helpful.... it is a great feature if the source has not been mastered with this in mind..... however, you can never know if it was done in mastering or not... I prefer to have it on... not having an X-Curve eq in the system is one of the reasons that a lot of ADR (replaced dialog) sticks out more in the home theater environment... I find the THX Re-EQ helps this alot....


----------



## budeone

Well... It came today and my G/F hooked the whole thing up b4 I got home.


I can tell you I see zero difference on any input. The dvd looks the same and so does everything else.


I was trying to talk myself into seeing a difference and there is none. It did sound good.


I tool a little look and found she only did the audio and nothing with the video..lmao


I did not yell...

















So now all inputs are in and one HDMI cable is out going to the TV.


We have no pic...

















She is playing in the menu setting now


----------



## budeone

We still have zero pic.


Everything is plugged into black input and HDMI is on out to TV.


No pic.. I tried a different cable and still nothing.


any suggestions?


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We still have zero pic.
> 
> 
> Everything is plugged into black input and HDMI is on out to TV.
> 
> 
> No pic.. I tried a different cable and still nothing.
> 
> 
> any suggestions?




Wingnut asked me today why after selling my Lexicon MC-12B that I didn't save a few bucks and go with the Anthem ( I bought the Halcro SSP_100)?


Well, you answered the question..(hope things workout for you).


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We have no pic...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She is playing in the menu setting now



Come on TheBland. This guy girlfriend is playing in the menu and you make a buying decision on that alone...







Do you let your girlfriend touch anything in your HT?


I'm sure this lady would be alot more upset with the Halcro...


My wife is able to listen to any HD-DVD she wants to play w/o any problems. At least she can use LPCM multi-channel over HDMI... Not a single Halcro user is able to use a Blu-ray or HD-DVD player with HDMI... And those Halcro pre/pros are on the market since more then 1 year... Sigh...


IMHO, the Halcro HDMI connections are useless HDMI connections...


----------



## obie_fl

Nice contribution to the thread Jeff.







I'd rather have a Pioneer Elite receiver then that Halcro. At least it can do HDMI audio.


budeone - Lets start with the basics.

Does the Anthem setup menu come up? (Hold the setup button on remote or front panel for 2 seconds)

Have you selected the correct HDMI input on the TV?

Did the TV HDMI input work before the D2 was hooked up?


----------



## thebland

I am sure the Anthem is nice....just too many hiccups for me. The Halcro does not have LPCM yet, but it is bulletproof in operation.



BTW - it's not the processor, it's the remote. My 10 year old can completely control my ultra sophisticated set up with my RTI touchscreen remote. So, let's not call his grilfriend an idiot.....anyone who has a girlfriend that would attempt to tackle such a project is good in my book.


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nice contribution to the thread Jeff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd rather have a Pioneer Elite receiver then that Halcro. At least it can do HDMI audio.
> 
> 
> budeone - Lets start with the basics.
> 
> Does the Anthem setup menu come up? (Hold the setup button on remote or front panel for 2 seconds)
> 
> Have you selected the correct HDMI input on the TV?
> 
> Did the TV HDMI input work before the D2 was hooked up?



yes it does.. we have the dvd working at 480..


This is the first anything with HDMI,,.. It s anew Sony 60 XBR2 TV.


We have pic on the dvd but it still says 480.


We cant get pic on the Zenith HD Sat box


----------



## FilmMixer

^^ Have you tried the Sat box using component? I had no luck at all with my Hughes HD-HDL using DVI.... put I have to say that the component looked fantastic..


And about the Sony DVD.. are you saying you cannot get it to output more than 480i over HDMI, or that you can't get the D2 to ouput more than 480?


----------



## budeone

We went back to sending sat right to tv. I/ we can not get it working correct.


I need a pro...


Do any of you know someone who knows the avm-50 in Chicago area?


----------



## budeone

out put more than 480


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am sure the Anthem is nice....just too many hiccups for me. The Halcro does not have LPCM yet, but it is bulletproof in operation.



Jeff.. It's fine that you didn't buy the Anthem but come on...



> Quote:
> FROM THE HALCRO DISCUSSION THREAD ON AVS:
> 
> 
> Perfectionist2 on 10/07/06 "The upcoming software update is supposed to resolve the previously discussed HDMI issues."
> 
> 
> uzun in Oct 06 - "Do the SSP80 and SSP100 do multichannel PCM audio over HDMI? It seems to me they might only support stereo PCM via HDMI looking at the features, is this true? I know they support Dolby Digital/DTS etc via HDMI, but it looks like for PCM they only support 2 channel currently (and probably not even DVD-Audio streams via HDMI)."
> 
> 
> Audiodynamics in Sept 06 "I have also been blatant in stating the weaknesses of the SSP-100. Although QC issues had plagued early production units, those problems have long since been eliminated. The next firmware rollout (rumoured to be a few weeks away) is very comprehensive and will address a myriad of irritating issues. The greatest weakness of the SSP-100 is the non intuitive user interface. A Lexicon or a Theta offers a much better user interface and more flexible setup options. But when the lights go out, it all boils down to ultimate sound quality and that's where the Halcro at only $10,000 is unbeatable. "



No MC PCM? 10k price? No thanks... We've had some growing pains too, but don't come in here to pee all over our parade


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jeff.. It's fine that you didn't buy the Anthem but come on...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No MC PCM? 10k price? No thanks... We've had some growing pains too, but don't come in here to pee all over our parade



Peeing on a parade? What would you call this below?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Levesque* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After reading this thread, I was thinking the exact same thing.
> 
> 
> My D2 is spectacular with both my HD-DVD and Blu-ray players. I have it since 9 months already, and the internal Gennum VXP scaler of my D2 is so good paired with my Sony Ruby.
> 
> 
> Actually, I sold my DVDO VP30 external scaler after getting the D2 since it was giving me a much better PQ with 1080i HD-DVDs then the DVDO. My pre/pro was simply better then a true dedicated external scaler.
> 
> 
> And now we know that Anthem made the right choice 1 year ago in choosing the Gennum chip since all the latest high-end dedicated scalers (Lumagen RadianceXG and Crystalio II) are all using the same chip. Anthem were the first to put a working Gennum scaler on the market. Not a simple feat for a pre/pro manufacturers...
> 
> 
> While Lexicon and Halcro are fighting and struggling to just follow the market, Anthem were taking the lead, even in front of the receiver manufacturers (not a single high-end receivers can do true 1080i IVT and per-pixel motion adaptive, even today... but the newest high-end receivers will all do it soon... 9 months after Anthem).
> 
> 
> Anthem are now testing a firmware to enable custom resolutions, multiple per-input memory banks, custom gamma curves, gen-lock... (all those are actually working in the beta firmware). So everything the high-end dedicated scalers can do. And all those new features are not for "next christmas" or "next year", since I'm already using them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Room-eq is also coming soon for the D2.
> 
> 
> And multi-channel LPCM over HDMi is working since the first day it came out on the market.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it's passing 1080p/60 easily. I'm using only the HDMI connections and don't do any 2 ch or analog in my room, and the D2 is spectacular.
> 
> 
> The first months were predictably a rocky road for a ground-breaking product like that, and it was to be expected. But the latest batch are now rock solid. Mine is working like a charm since day one 9 months ago




Now that is a funny post!! It came from the LEVESQUE moseying over to the HALCRO thread. I thought it a tidy sales job.... but not peeing. That post was the first reference to Anthem in the HALCRO thread after I was asked why I didn't buy the ANthem. Like I said, I laughed out loud when I read it...Too serious (and perhaps a bit defensive and a little braggish...







. If 'PEEING on a THREAD' was a term in the dictionary, the above post would be printed as an example of such under the defintion (you may find an additional reference under 'Pontification' as well....)










I only came over to this thread after LEVESQUE's above post from the Halcro thread. He posted there to prop up Anthem and his own system. That is fine, he likes his stuff. I didn't get all bent out of shape and accuse him of peeing on that thread. I enjoy the banter, he (obviously) does too...we're only talking about electronics - not someones wife OR CHILD in a bad light!..So, I wanted to see what was going on over here. A guy above was having set up problems and I simply parroted that those problems were what kept me away from Anthem (even though it does have LPCM).. No biggy.....Relax, it's just equipment, not something that'll ruin your life. i was being honest about my reasons not to by ANthem and then I get accused of Peeing on a thread. C'mon... casual readers will see that problems are still occuring with new units and it may save them some grief or get them to aask more questions about the Anthem before buying it. Isn't that what the forum is about? It's not a parade of high fiving like purchases by ignoring the bad and bolstering the good. Sometimes, I think many here are too [emotionally and financially] invested in what they buy and take any negative comments take way too seriously and, oddly, personally. Relax, its just toys and we're not 12 years old.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We went back to sending sat right to tv. I/ we can not get it working correct.
> 
> 
> I need a pro...
> 
> 
> Do any of you know someone who knows the avm-50 in Chicago area?




It just takes walking through step by step.


Since you get 480 (the correct DVD unscaled input) to the set, what HDMI cables are you using from the DVD to the Anthem and then the anthem to the display.


What kind of display is it & it's resolution?


----------



## budeone

I have the Sony dvd player ns999es going to the avm-50 with 3 componet cables.


They are going to copmonet 1 in.


I have a Zenith HD Diredt TV box with componet also. I had those in componet 2 in on the back of the avm.


Then 1 HDMI cable going from the back of the avm where it says HDMI out and that is plugged right into the TV. The Sony 60 xbr2 1080p set.


----------



## budeone

Ok... We have pic now!!


There was little switch on the back of the sat box.. I moved it to 480i and we have pic.


I still see no diffrence between b4 and after. The picture looks the same as it did before.


----------



## budeone

We lose pic when we unhook the s-video cable. The only way we are getting pic is when the s-video is hooked to the back of the tv.


I still get pic when I unplug the componet cables..


----------



## obie_fl

budeone - Do you loose the Anthem setup menu when you switch to anything higher then 480P? Menu 8 submenu b.


----------



## obie_fl

Have you selected the HDMI input on the TV???


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Have you selected the HDMI input on the TV???



I have looked all over in the menu on the TV and I dont see anything.


I have looked in tools and setup.. Its all pic and sound.


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> budeone - Do you loose the Anthem setup menu when you switch to anything higher then 480P? Menu 8 submenu b.




When we go lower than 1920x1080p/60 we lose menu.


----------



## obie_fl

You have the setup menu displayed with 1920x1080p/60 in Menu 8b?


Is HDMI the only video connection between the Anthem and TV?


----------



## budeone

8b has two settings.. hdmi or componet.. we have it set at hdmi.


yes,, the only connection..


----------



## obie_fl

That is correct but what resoulution do you have selected at Menu 8b?


Maybe the menu is different on the AVM50 but on the D2 8a selects Component/HDMI.


----------



## budeone

8c has 1920/1080p/60


----------



## obie_fl

Ok that a good sign... now lets go to the input setup.

Where do you have the DVD player hooked up?

For the DVD input under Menu 5 make the *scaler input* to component since you don't have a HDMI player. Also select *component video in* to "1".


You will have to do the same for the sat input except set *component video in* to "2"


----------



## budeone

dvd is going into componet 1


----------



## budeone

the sat box is going into componet 2


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok that a good sign... now lets go to the input setup.
> 
> Where do you have the DVD player hooked up?
> 
> For the DVD input under Menu 5 make the scaler input *component* since you don't have a HDMI player. Also select *component video in* to "1".
> 
> 
> You will have to do the same for the sat input except set *component video in* to "2"



Thats how its connected already.


----------



## budeone

I am going to best buy and just buy a new hd sat box with HDMI and see if that works.


----------



## budeone

Do you guys think the data format


4.2.2


or 4.4.4 rgb extended or auto is best?


----------



## obie_fl

I'd stick with 4.2.2 for now.


You could try hooking up the s-video and switching to that for scaler input.


Does you TV indicate it is receiving a 1080P signal when the menu is displayed?


----------



## budeone

Yes it shows 1080p.. I think my sat box is bad.. It seems to be hooked up corrcet and I have tried all inputs on the back of the avm..


Maggie is at the store as we speak picking up a new sat box.. I will know in an hour


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I only came over to this thread after LEVESQUE's above post from the Halcro thread. He posted there to prop up Anthem and his own system. That is fine, he likes his stuff. I didn't get all bent out of shape and accuse him of peeing on that thread. I enjoy the banter, he (obviously) does too...we're only talking about electronics - not someones wife OR CHILD in a bad light!..So, I wanted to see what was going on over here. A guy above was having set up problems and I simply parroted that those problems were what kept me away from Anthem (even though it does have LPCM).. No biggy.....Relax, it's just equipment, not something that'll ruin your life. i was being honest about my reasons not to by ANthem and then I get accused of Peeing on a thread. C'mon... casual readers will see that problems are still occuring with new units and it may save them some grief or get them to aask more questions about the Anthem before buying it. Isn't that what the forum is about? It's not a parade of high fiving like purchases by ignoring the bad and bolstering the good. Sometimes, I think many here are too [emotionally and financially] invested in what they buy and take any negative comments take way too seriously and, oddly, personally. Relax, its just toys and we're not 12 years old.



Jeff.. it's wasn't meant to be an angry, defensive or 'bent out of shape' post. No offense to him, but the gentleman who was 'having problems' is now being helped out in this thread, and his problems seems to be experience related, and not equipment related. Your post seemed to say "see.. I didn't buy a D2 because they are un-reliable and buggy, so I got the Halcro.."


I was merely pointing out that your new piece of gear is neither more stable or more feature laden than the D2 for almost 40% more according to that thread.. that's it... I don't have much of an emotional investment as you think... If you knew me, you'd know that if the Halcro offered anything more than the D2, at what ever price, I'd be there in a second.


I hope that you are able to enjoy MC PCM (btw the D2 does do 8 ch over HDMI) soon, because, without it, your reviews aren't going to be very 'complete' in the audio department










If you're ever in LA, look me up.. I'll show you who's the king of bass... 8x15" low end drivers in the mains, 4x18" LFE chain


----------



## budeone

Well we picked up a new hd 20 direct tv box.. it works..


The picture is green.. its clear.. but green.


Any ideas?


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well we picked up a new hd 20 direct tv box.. it works..
> 
> 
> The picture is green.. its clear.. but green.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



I sometimes experience a green screen, a power toggle of the Anthem always fixes the issue.


----------



## budeone

lol... it worked!


I have pic and sound...


Thanks all of you for all your help... You guys are the best!


----------



## obie_fl

Did you get your DVD player working? Have her pick up a HDMI DVD player too.


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did you get your DVD player working? Have her pick up a HDMI DVD player too.




roflmao.. Thats next


I am waiting for the Sony to come out.


----------



## yatchaks

You might look at http://www.oppodigital.com/dv970hd/dv970hd.html .


Passes 480i via HDMI to the Anthem scaler and only $149.00.


----------



## obie_fl

Is everyone now happy with the Oppo 970 SACD playback over HDMI? I know they had issues initially.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

budeone,

I'm glad things are starting to come together for you with your new gear. There are many ways to confuse yourself with this stuff so just take your time and do one thing at a time.


As far as image quality, please keep in mind that getting the best imaging means figuring out how to take best advantage of ALL the pieces in your video chain.


The first order of business is to turn off the "torch mode" settings that most likely came as factory defaults in your display. The manufacturers almost invariably set their factory defaults too bright, too contrasty, too red, and overly sharpness enhanced as this makes for an eye-catching image in the garish lighting conditions found in most stores. Such settings are WRONG WRONG WRONG for best viewing!


Let me repeat that: The factory default settings in your TV are almost certain to be way wrong for best viewing.


Start fixing this by selecting the "picture mode" in your display that does THE LEAST to the incoming image. Often this will be labeled "movies". Definitely stay away from any mode labeled "vivid", "dynamic", "vibrant", "games", "scorch your eyeballs", or the like. If you have two likely "good" modes to choose between, select the one that appears to produce the DARKER and SOFTER images.


At first this movies mode (or whatever it is called) will look TOO dark and TOO soft. Trust me on this, this is where you want to start.


Now turn off any special "enhancement" features in your display. These might be labeled "flesh tone correction", "noise reduction", or just about anything. The marketing guys keep coming up with new names for them. They are -- all of them -- just going to get in the way. They are intended to help make crappy input signals look better, and too correct (poorly) for the typically bad settings most owners use. But you are not going to be feeding your display a crappy input signal, and I'm now going to tell you how to set the settings properly.


For an HDMI feed to your display, you likely want to use YCbCr rather than RGB. Check if your display requires you to set this manually and set it if necessary.


Now go to the video output Setup menu in the AVM-50. Be sure the output color space is set to HDTV since you have an HDTV dispaly -- HDTV images and SDTV images uses slightly different math for converting between RGB and YCbCr. Also select the correct output color format (typically YCbCr for an HDMI connection).


RGB sends red, green and blue brightness data. YCbCr sends gray scale brightness data (the Y) and two streams of "color difference" data to color that gray appropriately. If the two devices get confused about what's being sent then the Y data gets misinterpeted as Green, or vice versa, and that's how you end up with a ghastly green or shocking pink image. A pair of devices can get confused because you have manually set them to use the mismatched format, or because there was a bad handshake between them when they started to talk to each other.


Also select the video output resolution from the AVM-50 that most closely matches the "native" or physical pixel matrix resolution of your display. Not all displays will actually accept their native resolution, but if yours does, then that's by far the best one to use.


Once you have accepted these changes in the AVM-50's Setup / Video Output menu you can test the display side of your setup WITHOUT NEEDING any working input devices.


Just select an AVM-50 input that has nothing connected to it. The AVM-50 will see no incoming video and will generate its default screen which is a full screen of bright blue.


Is that what you see? If the color is wrong (greenish or pinkish) then you have the output format mismatched between the AVM-50 and the display. If the image appears offset to the left or right by a lot (say 1/3 of the screen) or if you have no image, then you need to go back into the AVM-50's Setup / Video Output menu and change the Sync setting to the other setting (your choices being normal or inverted). Accept that change and look again.


Once you have a properly centered blue screen, press and hold the "7" key on the AVM-50 remote to bring up its live video adjustment menus. They should appear in the middle of the screen and be pure whiteish gray (no red or green tint). You can bring up the color bar patterns generated by the AVM-50 in those menus to double check how the image looks. Again this can all be done with no active input device. You might use these test bars, for example, to check for proper image size and centering on your display.


OK, by this point you know the AVM-50 is properly talking to your display. The next step is to "calibrate" the levels in the display. The levels I'm talking about here are the settings for the blackest blacks, the whitest whites, the saturation and balance of the colors, and the degree of "sharpness" enhancement of vertical edges. Your digital display will be very finicky about getting these levels correct. To put it another way, the difference in image quality between getting the levels right and nearly right may be a lot greater than what you are used to from any older TV.


And the problem is that you've got lots of places to fiddle with levels here. The display likely has its own controls. The AVM-50 has controls for each input source device. And many of the better source devices also offer their own controls.


Ideally what you want to do is to adjust the display FIRST (using its internal controls) to produce the best possible image of the video test patterns and menus generated by the AVM-50 itself.


Then you use the AVM-50's input controls to adjust the signal from each input device to produce the best possible image on the TV for each type of source.


Unfortunately the AVM-50's internally generated test patterns are not particularly helpful unless you have a light sensor you can put on your TV. As a starting point, your best bet is probably to go to the correct TV forum here and look for the thread for your TV. There will likely be suggestions for setting the basic levels (Blacks using the Brightness control, Whites using the Contrast control, Color Saturation using the Color control, Color Balance using the Hue or Tint control, and edge enhancement using the Sharpness control). Try to find a set of recommended settings from someone who is also using the HDMI input!


Having selected the "movies" picture mode, it is likely the factory default settings are STILL not right in your display. Typically you will need to lower Contrast and Sharpness even further. Brightness, Color, and Tint may well be correct or close to correct already (in that picture mode). Again, these are settings you are making in your display itself. Bring up the AVM-50's test bar patterns to see what's happening.


Eventually you will reach the point where you are happy with the way the test bar patterns and menus look. The next step is to hook up a source device and calibrate it.


The easiest device to calibrate will be a standard DVD player. You will need a calibration test DVD such as "Avia" or "Digital Video Essentials" (also known as DVE). These come with test charts that make it easier to see the impact of changing the basic levels. They also come with a set of colored gelatin filters that you look through to adjust the color settings. For example if you look through a blue filter at a blue item and a white item simultaneously, then adjusting the Color control up or down will allow you to vary the amount of blue that contributes to the white item. When the blue and white items look equally bright (while viewed through the blue filter), then the Color setting for blue is correct! Similarly you can look at a pair of the secondary colors to adjust the Tint setting. The calibration DVDs come with instructions.


Using these test DVDs is not hard. It's just a bit confusing at first and it does take some time. It takes time because the settings interact. That means you may need to cycle through the process a number of times until you find the best compromise set of settings.


With modern digital displays, taking the time to do this calibration is well worth it! Again, the factory default settings are not likely to give you the ideal image.


OK, before you can calibrate your DVD player you have to hook it up. By now you know how to set the input plug selections on the AVM-50. The other input settings in the AVM-50 can be left in their factory default values. But just as in your TV you need to make sure you have turned off any torch mode like settings in the DVD player. If your DVD player offers various output or picture modes, again select the one described as doing THE LEAST to the image.


The output resolution of the standard DVD player should be set to 480i. Let the AVM-50 do all the de-interlacing and scaling of the image. Be sure you are using Component video cabling or HDMI to connect the DVD player.


Now use the calibration DVD according to its instructgions. However don't make any changes in the settings in your display! Those settings are already "right" for displaying the video signal coming from the AVM-50 and YOU DON'T WANT TO ALTER THEM. Instead make any necessary changes in the Picture / Color menu of the AVM-50 (under the "7" key) for whichever input you are using for your DVD player. Alternatively, if your DVD player has it's own output setting controls you could make some or all of the setting changes there.


Keep in mind that the best input settings for Component cabling may very well be different from the best input settngs for HDMI cabling! Each combination of source device and cabling choice needs to be dealt with separately.


The value of calibrating the DVD player imagery first is that you can get a better handle on just how good your display CAN look with the AVM-50 doing the work. Until you've seen a properly calibrated image it is hard to understand just how much better it can be than, say, the factory default settings will produce.


Also keep in mind that the correct calibration will be different for different viewing conditions. For critical viewing -- i.e., where you want to see the best imagery -- you should both calibrate and watch in a dimly lit (but NOT blacked out) room. Your eye will see the most in such viewing conditions, and the correct calibration will enhance this.


For casual viewing, on the other hand, the room may very will be more brightly lit and the correct calibration settings for such a room will also be different. There is nothing wrong with this, and many people keep "day" and "night" style calibrations handy. One easy way to do this is to leave all your input settings the same and simply have two sets of saved settings in your display for dim or bright viewing. Understand that the bright view settings can not produce the same fine and rich detail as the darker view settings because the eye will not be as sensitive if the ambient lighting is bright. But if you are using the bright settings for casual viewing, then fine!


Once you have a handle on just how good the image can look, the next job is to set up your HDTV source. There the problem will be that you have no calibration test charts to work from. As a start you can cable your DVD player the same way as you plan on cabling your set top box. Then you can transfer the settings you achieve for the DVD player to the HDTV input and refine from there. Note this will only be useful if you have made all the input adjustments using the AVM-50 input menu as there will be no way to transfer any settings you've made in the DVD player into your HDTV source box.


OK by now you are probably thinking this is all pretty confusing and a lot of work.


The thing to remember is that you don't have to do it all at once. Get rid of the torch mode settings and start by adjusting by eye -- aiming for that "darker and softer" but also "richer and more detailed" imagery with "natural" colors. Then, as you have time, start refining your settings using things like a calibration DVD. If you are like most people the "calibrated" settings will initially look too dark and too soft. STICK WITH THEM! Soon, very soon, you will start seeing "real" details you never knew where in there. The softness you are seeing will also reveal itself as "natural" and you will understand that your old, overly sharpness enhanced, imagery was simply showing "false detail" -- known as "ringing" or "haloing".


It takes time to develop an eye for a properly calibrated image. But once you've gotten there you will never want to go back.


Many people pay to have an expert come in (an "ISF" technician) to do all this stuff. The ISF tech will bring special tools to generate test signals and measure light output. He will also bring a trained eye and an understanding of the compromises that work best. He will also bring a bill -- usually a few hundred dollars to near a thousand dollars depending upon the complexity of your setup.


So don't give up on image quality too fast. Your AVM-50 is capable of some pretty amazing stuff when both the input and output sides are set up right. And with some care and patience and a willingness to experiment and learn you will likely be able to do much of this refinement yourself.


---------------------------------------------------------------------


And by the way, you can have almost as much fun improving the setup of your audio system!

--Bob


----------



## budeone

Thank you Bob. I printed that one because I will use that as a step by step.


That is going to be my project for Tuesday. I have so many cables and boxes on my floor it is embarrassing.


Hind sight, I knew something must have been wrong with that sat box last night. You were correct.. Easy isn't a word I would describe but with the manual and some sense I knew it must have been hooked up correct. I as still unsure why it works going into the tv but not into the avm.


It was a 1st gen Zenith HD box and it was 999.00 when I bought it. The new one is 1/3 the size and a 1/4 of the weight.. It was only 99.00.. go figure!


The dvd does not really look any different.. CNN and MSNBC look great. I was watching the Lions game and it looked better than I have ever seen before.


I know you are correct with doing some settings. There are so many of them I cant even comprehend what most of the terms mean.


There are so many audio setting and they are MUCH easier than my Adcom was. Just setting the speakers takes sec not min.


Thanks again... You have been great and this board has many wonderful people.


----------



## Big Tex

Friends,


I need some help. I'm not an AV expert like most of you but I do enjoy reading the informative posts and detailed information. Based on your posts and data I went ahead and ordered an AVM 50/MCA 50/MCA 20 combo. Also on order are a Dalite HP screen and Sony Pearl. What I haven't ordered is a DVD Player. I'm not ready to jump into HD-DVD or Blue Ray. What I'd like to do is purchase an inexpensive DVD player ($200 - $275) that would work nicely with my new AVM 50. I understand and appreciate the fact that the VXP processor is superior to anything I can get in a DVD player at that price range so I want a DVD player that will feed a good HDMI signal to the AVM50 for post processing. At this point I have *NO* idea on earth what to buy? Should I feed the AVM50 a 480i signal or a 480P. I keep noticing that most of the reviews use a 480P yet some of you recommend 480i. What to do?????????????


Please advise. I'm an AV novice and need some advice. I'd like to send a clean signal to the AVM in order to tweak it for maximum resolution and quality. I'd like to get the most out of my extensive DVD library.


Thx


Big Tex


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> At this point I have *NO* idea on earth what to buy? Should I feed the AVM50 a 480i signal or a 480P. I keep noticing that most of the reviews use a 480P yet some of you recommend 480i. What to do?????????????
> 
> 
> 
> Big Tex



Tex,


About 5 posts up is a short money DVD player. You want one with 480i HDMI output to let the Anthem do the deinterlacing and the scaling. I have a Pioneer 59Avi, and there is a newer Pio model, but prices are much higher than the Oppo. There are also good threads in the DVD player forum on HDMI players that properly pass 480i.


You'll love your setup.


Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Big Tex,

You absolutely want to send 480i -- and preferably a digital version of 480i -- from the standard DVD player to the AVM-50. The AVM-50 has an exceptionally good de-interlacing solution -- the circuit that turns the 480i data coming off the DVD disc into 480p. That is the AVM-50 will almost certainly do a better job of this crucial piece of processing than any "progressive" DVD player you are likely to be looking at. [NOTE: The data on all standard DVDs is 480i.]


That 480p signal is then what the AVM-50 scales up for your display. As you've already noted, the AVM-50 will *ALSO* do a better job of that processing than any of the upscaling DVD players you might be looking at.


The Oppo standard DVD player mentioned above is probably the current consensus favorite for a player that will do a fine job of passing a digital 480i signal over HDMI to the AVM-50.


This is a hot topic in the standard DVD forum here, so there's lots of info there.


The more expensive players include upscaling to higher resolution (which you definitely won't be using given your AVM-50) as well as ability to play the exotic audio format discs sold as SACD and DVD-Audio which you just might want to do. The players that can play these exotic formats are known as the "universal" players. It is possible to get a universal player that is not also an upscaling player, but the trick is that such beasties typically don't offer digital video output (i.e., HDMI). Also beware that many many players with HDMI outputs *DO NOT* implement 480i over that output. The lowest they go is 480p (for marketing reasons more than technical ones).


Universal players are more expensive because they require high quality analog audio output stages due to licensing restrictions about them playing the exotic audio formats over digital audio outputs.


So the Oppo is a fav right now because it does one thing quite well -- reading standard DVD discs and shipping out 480i over HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

budeone,

Your older SAT-HD box probably didn't work via HDMI through the AVM-50 simply because its HDMI output stage is, umm, cheap -- the minimum possible implementation they could get away with. This is a *VERY* common problem with cable and sat boxes which have HDMI.


The problem is that the HDCP (copy protection) protocol -- a mandatory part of the HDMI standard -- requires the source device to verify that every piece of hardware in the video chain is HDCP compliant. That means that when you put the AVM-50 in the path, the SAT box has to ask the AVM-50, and THEN it has to ALSO ask the display. It does this THROUGH the AVM-50. This extended query is known as repeater processing -- the AVM-50 being the "repeater" here. And the crappy, urhh, cheap HDMI implementations used in many of these SAT and cable boxes simply aint smart enough to do it. As soon as the SAT box recognizes that it is not directly connected to a TV it simply gives up!


Well you replaced your SAT box before we could work this through with you, and your new one works, so great. But as it turns out the AVM-50 has a nifty special feature that addresses just this problem. You can set Repeater = NO for the problematic input and the AVM-50 will pretend to your SAT box that it is directly connected to a TV. If your TV is turned off, that's all that's involved. However if your TV is turned on, the AVM-50 -- all on its own -- queries the TV about its HDCP compliance and then passes that on to the SAT box. I.e., the AVM-50 won't lie if your TV is not HDCP compliant. The AVM-50 has to be honest about that to maintain its own HDCP compliance.


So if you still have your older SAT box and would like to continue using it (and perhaps return the new one), try setting Repeater = NO on that AVM-50 HDMI input in the Setup menu. On the other hand, your newer SAT box is likely better in other ways as well, so you may just want to send the older box off to SAT box heaven.

--Bob


----------



## akopperl

HDMI is the most frustrating issue I have ever dealt with in the 15+ years I have been involved with this hobby. I don't know how the industry can release an interface that does not appear to have requirements or at least requirements that are enforced. How can you have a universal interface that is a hit or miss proposition regarding compatibility?


In previous threads, I mentioned issues that I was having with an Oppo DVD player and my DirecTV HD DVR (HR10-250). Bob was kind enough to give me some advice.


Since then I upgraded the DVR to the new DIrecTV HR20-700S and Anthem provided me a copy of beta software. Prior to installing the new software - I could not get either the Oppo or the new DVR to lock in at 1080p/60. However, after installing the beta software - both sources immediately locked in at 1080p/60 and my display appeared to sync quicker when the resolution from my source changed. The downside - my new DVR kept on locking-up (sometimes immediately - other times after about 10 minutes). After resetting my DVR about 5 times - I decided to switch back to 1080i/60 from the Anthem. The DVR worked the rest of the night - but I'm not convinced that I won't experience any problems at 1080i/60. Any ideas on what component is at fault when trying to output 1080p/60 from the Anthem - the DVR, the Anthem or my TV? This is so frustrating because it is so difficult to isolate the cause. Between cables, software and hardware it is a very time consuming and tedious process.


Thanks,

Anthony


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthony,

My first thought is that it is the HDMI cable between the Anthem and your display.


1080p/60 requires perfect peformance from your cable. Among other things, this means the cable length can be an issue as can any corrosion on the connectors or mechanical problems at any socket.


Another thought is to set the Anthem HDMI input for your DVR to Repeater = NO. With that setting, your DVR will communicate only with the Anthem -- i.e., it won't try to also communicate THROUGH the Anthem to your display.


---------------------------------------------------------------


It is also possible that you just have a typical, new-device hardware problem on your new DVR. Bad disk sectors can cause the type of lock ups you have been experiencing. When you switched to 1080i you possibly also switched channel buffer locations on the DVR's disk. That is, it may be simple coincidence that things are now working better after you switched to 1080i output.


For example if you have a two tuner DVR it may be that you are primarily using the tuner with a good disk buffer now whereas you were using the other tuner (with a bad disk buffer) earlier.

--Bob


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I suspect the real distinction between D2 and AVM-50 installations is that the D2 owners tend to be the folks pushing the unit more to its limits.
> 
> --Bob




Why do you say that? Not sure how to read that, but it seems almost insulting to AMV50 owners.


Would it be fair to say those that can only afford an AVM50 might be pushing the unit more to its limits? I've had both and swear the AVM50 (at least for the moment) is more stable given the same conditions and the same demands put on them.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DonnieW,

There's no insult of course. It's simply that folks with more complex installations and a more elaborate set of high end equipment are also folks more likely to pony up the money for the more expensive D2.

--Bob


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DonnieW,
> 
> There's no insult of course. It's simply that folks with more complex installations and a more elaborate set of high end equipment are also folks more likely to pony up the money for the more expensive D2.
> 
> --Bob



I guess I look at it differently, the guys who have less money tend to really push things. Look no further than PC's and overclocking. Once could buy dual Xeons or instead a cheap chip and push it till it nearly melts... literally.


It's ironic, even with all the money one couldn't buy a system that isn't still pushed to some extent. At least not one as convenient as the Anthems. But hey, my Anthem works and sounds beautiful and I'm glad to be in the company of both AVM and D series owners. Truth be told cost was not a consideration at all between the two models and I'm convinced I'm pushng the AVM harder than most people and their D's.


----------



## yatchaks

*Bob Pariseau*,


I wanted to take a momemt and thank you for the posts you contribute to this thread. They are well written and thought out, making life much simpler for those of us who are "newbies" to the Anthem line, which is in a different class than anything many of us have owned before.



Thank you,



Mark


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Bob Pariseau*,
> 
> 
> I wanted to take a momemt and thank you for the posts you contribute to this thread. They are well written and thought out, making life much simpler for those of us who are "newbies" to the Anthem line, which is in a different class than anything many of us have owned before.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> 
> Mark




Ditto..


Bob, I did not have HDMI on my old sat box. I was running componet in.. I did try the repeater off and it didn't do anything.


We were working on that box for almost 7 hours.. for $100.00 bucks its worth it..lol


I am having a few other issues.. I don't want to be a pain in the butt......


1. I get gibberish on the screen of the Avm-50.. doing a reset clears it. then back to user settings.. I don't know if this is just a quirk of something more.


2. I cant find a way to make my dvd player send out 480i like in the GREAT post you posted. I fired up the old remote and went through the settings and just don't find anything.. I see

bit rate and just about any thing else.. nothing about 480i and 480p.. it is a Sony ns999es http://reviews.cnet.com/Sony_DVP_NS9...-20324937.html 


3. My panamx max 5300 is shutting down on me

its says 15 amps http://www.panamax.com/pdf/INS5300D.pdf 


Can this really be sucking that much more juice and this panamax cant handle it?


It was fine most of the day/.. from about 7:00 am to 7:00pm 12 hours straight.. the other unit was on much longer than that.


----------



## BLS

As much as I love this forum, when a chunk of change this size is spent on a peice of gear, where is the dealer support?


Depending on the dealer and amount spent, there should be a knowledgeable person assigned to come out and help with intial setup and familiarize the client enough to get him started.


I realize a lot of the setups we have and tweaking we do can go past what is considered normal, but it also seems like a lot of these questions/problems should be happily resolved by a good dealer.


Just my thoughts.


----------



## Bruceko

I am thinking about upgrading from my AVM20 to a 50 or D2.

I plan on running a 60 plasma and a projector in the same room. Is the scaling capabilty on zone 2 or 3? Does the D2 have the ability to drive both at different scaling without changing settings in the D2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

budeone,

Hook up your DVD player via Component cables and select INTERLACED output using the switch on the back of the player near its Component output jacks and also in the Component Out menu (page 78 of its user manual). "Interlaced" output is a 480i signal. The alternative, "Progressive" output, is a 480p signal.


Is the gibberish you are seeing coming up on your TV screen or rather on the front panel of the AVM-50? What version of AVM-50 software do you have? To find the software version, bring up any image on your TV screen and then press Select on the AVM-50 remote once. The version number will be the last text on the first line of info displayed. It should be V1.06 If it is V1.00 you have older firmware and need to download an update from the Anthem web site and install it (using a windows PC). I believe one of the things fixed by the newer software was a front panel display problem like this.


It doesn't make sense that you couldn't get a signal from the Component outputs of your old SAT box unless you got confused and didn't select the proper Component input jacks in the AVM-50 setup. Component hookups don't have any of the complications of HDMI hookups.


To select a Component input in the AVM-50 input Setup you need to say that you want a specific Component input jack to go to the Scaler as part of the setup for that input. If you have selected a Component jack to go to the scaler, then the HDMI Repeater setting should not be possible to set (it will show as "NA").


I can't help with your Panamax problem.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

I never thought of looking on the back on the machine. I was just looking for 480I and 480P.


I am going to do that right now.


The gibberish id on the diplsy of the AVM machine notthe Tv. The TV always says 1080I..


Should the repeater be off or on?


I have them off on both the HDMI sat box and the DVD player.


----------



## budeone

It was on interlaced in the set up and progressive on the switch.

















Its a wonder I find my car keys..


Ok, they are both set on interlaced now..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

budeone,

The Repeater setting is only relevant to an HDMI connection. Your new SAT box is cabled via HDMI, right? So Repeater = NO for that input is fine.


But your DVD player is cabled via Component cables, right? If that's correct, then the Repeater setting is irrelevant and, in fact, shouldn't even be something the AVM-50 lets you change. That is, it should only be settable if you have specified HDMI for that input.


ALSO: What's the software version on your AVM-50. Is it V1.06?


What sort of gibberish are you seeing?

--Bob


----------



## budeone

You ever come to the burgs of Chiacgo I will buy you a steak dinner... Thanks!


I surprised the dvd player has been set wrong all this time. I wounder if the pic will be any better now...


----------



## akopperl

It looks like 1080p/60 finally works properly in my setup. As Bob suggested - I changed the HDMI repeater to NO for my DVR and had no issues while watching live TV and recorded programs for 3 hours tonight.


I have noticed a little bit more noise in my picture - but I am not sure whether that is a function of the beta software or a result of watching most high def programming from HD locals from DirecTV as opposed to OTA HD locals. Unfortunately, the new DirecTV HD DVR does not support OTA as of yet. Maybe, I should experiment with some of Anthem's video settings. RIght now I have everything set to the defaults. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,


Anthony


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthony,

DirecTV retransmits HDTV at a reduced bit rate -- often disparagingly called "HD-Lite". It is particularly bad for the HD local channels retransmitted by DirecTV in many markets but even the national feeds such as HBO-HD are bit starved to varying degrees.


In addition, the scaler inside the DirecTV boxes is no great shakes, so if you are viewing a 720p program and telling the DirecTV box to put out 1080i (or vice versa) you are going to get some artifacts compared to sending the signal unmolested to the Anthem and letting the Anthem do the scaling from there.


But time spent refining the calibration levels for your display and for the input you are using from the DirecTV box will probably pay off well.


If the noise you are seeing is blotchiness in near blacks then that is likely a calibration problem. The same is true if you are losing detail in near blacks or near the brightest whites.


If the noise you are seeing looks like blockiness (often in areas of nearly uniform color) or pixelation in rapidly moving stuff then that is likely bit starvation or scaling problems.


If the noise you are seeing looks like sparklies then that is likely to be digital video bit drop out -- either in the HDMI from the DirecTV box or in the HDMI to your display. I.e., it is a cabling problem.


Also recheck the data format the DirecTV box is sending out, and the format you are sending to your display. RGB and one of the 2 YCbCr formats (I can never remember which one, but I think it is 4:4:4) use fewer bits to process the signal than the other YCbCr format. If I recall correctly, what you want is YCbCr 4:4:4 in (because that's how the content is encoded) and YCbCr 4:2:2 out.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Just wanted to advise that I added the Panasonic DMP-BD10 Blu-ray to my setup. No problems via HDMI to my AVM-50. I set the output on the Panny to 1080i and image quality is superb.


If anyone has any specific questions please let me know.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

placidman,

Are you sending multi-channel, high-res PCM over the HDMI cable to the D2 when playing Blue Ray discs? Any issues with loss of channels yet (normal play, or when playing "extras" content)?


Also, can the panny be configured to switch (automatically) to 480i output over the HDMI cable when playing standard DVDs so that the D2 can do all the work?


Did you have any particular issues in calibrating video from the panny for either Blue-Ray or standard DVD playback?

--Bob


----------



## BLS

So why no thoughts on dealer help/involvment?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

BLS,

Well it's not exactly a tweak. (grin!)


Sure you should expect the Anthem dealer network to be made up of higher end dealers who feature support in the hopes of generating add-on sales, but I think you have to recognize that:


1) Anthem has no control over how any of its dealers chooses to balance that equation (extra dealer support costs vs. potential for more sales), and


2) The D2 is a sufficiently complicated product that it will tax the best dealers. The type of support needed is a combo of system integration (which not all dealers do well) and ISF calibration (which not all dealers do at all).


In addition, even though the D2 and AVM-50 have been out for a while, there is still a lot to learn about them (witness this thread). And any given dealer probably has limited experience with working through problems on them. Also, if a problem is thorny the dealer is likely to try to switch the customer to another product rather than risk alienating the customer by working through the issue -- even when it might very well turn out the problem is not in the Anthem at all.


So the number of dealers that actually get good at dealing with such things is even smaller.


But heck if the dealers did all the work we wouldn't need this forum.

--Bob


----------



## BLS

Can't argue with that.


It always amazes me how owners of the gear we love actually end up knowing more than the dealer/rep/and even manufacturer sometimes.


Hence my comment, I love this forum.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> placidman,
> 
> Are you sending multi-channel, high-res PCM over the HDMI cable to the D2 when playing Blue Ray discs? Any issues with loss of channels yet (normal play, or when playing "extras" content)?
> 
> 
> Also, can the panny be configured to switch (automatically) to 480i output over the HDMI cable when playing standard DVDs so that the D2 can do all the work?
> 
> 
> Did you have any particular issues in calibrating video from the panny for either Blue-Ray or standard DVD playback?
> 
> --Bob




Greetings,


Bob, I am sending multi-channel, and high res audio via HDMI with no issues. The Panasonic will not send 480i via HDMI for standard DVD playback. I use the Oppo 970HD for 480i HDMI DVD.


No issues with video setup. I used Digital Video Essentials for calibration. In it's default setting the DMP-BD10 will not pass below black via HDMI. This is not a real problem though.


The unit is excellent. I would say that pic quality is on par with HD DVD from what I have seen thus far.



Regards,


----------



## dmorse4765

I have a HD XA1 arriving next week. Can anyone recommend to me the best audio and video output settings on the Toshiba to my D2? I am using a Panny 50 inch plasma and 5.1 surround. Any input would be greatly appreciated.



Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau

bruceko,

The D2 and AVM-50 have only one scaler so you can't get two different types of scaler output on two different video outputs.


The Zone2 Component video output jacks can be configured to pass the same (scaled and processed) signal as the Main Component output jacks, or an unscaled and unprocessed version of the input currently going out the Main jacks, or an unscaled and unprocessed version of an alternately selected video input source (while the Main jack continues to display the scaled version of the currently selected Main input source).


Basically the unprocessed output options are just a pass through of the selected input to the output.


Also be aware that if you are using an HDMI input, then you may get no signal at all on the Component output jacks due to HDCP copy protection -- and there's only one HDMI output so you can't do Zone2 stuff with HDMI.


The current version of the Anthem Owner's manual is available for download from the Anthem site for more details. However it would be best to work out such system integration issues with your dealer, so that if there's a deal breaker in any of this you can return the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

I have ver 1.07 to install on my Avm-50... I will see if that fixes my problem.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a HD XA1 arriving next week. Can anyone recommend to me the best audio and video output settings on the Toshiba to my D2? I am using a Panny 50 inch plasma and 5.1 surround. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Dick



Greetings,


Dick, set the Toshiba to output 1080i via HDMI and ensure that HDMI audio is enabled (I believe it is by default). You should be good to go.



Regards,


----------



## dmorse4765

Thank you very much. It should arrive today.

Dick


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have ver 1.07 to install on my Avm-50... I will see if that fixes my problem.



That's a version newer than available for download.


----------



## budeone

Corrcet.. I was having an issue and they thought this may fix it. I will probably install Friday when I get home from work.


It is a Beta and I hope it works the way he says it will. I needed to wait for a cable to come.. I didnt have a cable to hook up to the computer and the back of the avm-50.


Now I have it.


----------



## budeone

an FYI for those that upgrade.


It took over an hour and had to try it 5 times before it worked.


Its in and shows the new version. I hope that fixes it.


----------



## obie_fl

I've reloaded my D2 firmware at least seven or eight times and it always loads on the first try and only takes around ten minutes. What kind of hookup are you using? Do you have any other apps running on the PC such as a PDA?


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've reloaded my D2 firmware at least seven or eight times and it always loads on the first try and only takes around ten minutes. What kind of hookup are you using? Do you have any other apps running on the PC such as a PDA?




Greetings,


I have had the same experience as obie. An hour and 5 attempts seems excessive.



Regards,


----------



## budeone

Its hooked up to a 1 year old HP pent 4 running xp2 pro.


I bought it and thought I would like it and I didnt. It is way to big and heavy. So nothing is even loaded on this machine. Turned teh screen saver off like in the directions and hooked up to a/c just in case.


bought a usb to serial connector and just loader the drivers. Found the anthem and clicked upgrade.


Went about half way through and said failed... I tried again.


one the 3rd try .. i was just going to forget it for when I had more time. The problem is it would not turn back on. Nothing would work.


So I hooked it up again and kept doing over and over.



Finally it worked all the way through and it works fine.. This weekend I will see if the gibberish shows back up.


If you want the file give my your email


----------



## randman

As I mentioned earlier, I have a USB/Serial adapter which worked for saving the settings, but didn't work for me for upgrades. I tried upgrading 4 times or 5 times with no luck. I then used my laptop, which has a built-in serial adapter, and it worked the very first time. My USB/Serial adapter was WHQL tested/approved.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> bought a usb to serial connector and just loader the drivers. Found the anthem and clicked upgrade.



Thats is likely the issue, others have had problems with USB to serial convertors. I'm lucky as I have a laptop with a serial output.


----------



## budeone

That must be the issue then.


The funny thing is.. I dont recall needing one for YEARS.. it was always like a wasted port. I used to have a ext US Rob courier modem, that was the last thing I ever hooked up.


Now two times in a week I need one.


The Anthem and my Pronto needs that cable as well.


----------



## DrJRapp

It appears that the 3d time is the charm. I have a D2 that is 100% functional. I hope I don't jinx it....lol


----------



## FilmMixer

I have found that when upgrading, you must have everything that is connected to the D2 off, or it will fail when trying to program the scaler chips... I've never had a failure except the time I tried to upgrade with the projector on..


I guess that why in the instructions it says to turn everything off







I knew those directions must be there for somebody.....


----------



## samperio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Bob, I am sending multi-channel, and high res audio via HDMI with no issues. The Panasonic will not send 480i via HDMI for standard DVD playback. I use the Oppo 970HD for 480i HDMI DVD.
> 
> 
> No issues with video setup. I used Digital Video Essentials for calibration. In it's default setting the DMP-BD10 will not pass below black via HDMI. This is not a real problem though.
> 
> 
> The unit is excellent. I would say that pic quality is on par with HD DVD from what I have seen thus far.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



I have the Panny and the D2 too and they work together with no issues in audio and video.

Just a word: the Panny PASS BLACKER THAN BLACK! Just go to the brightness regulation of the player; the default value is 0. Try a value of 2 or 3 and you will see that the shadow of the THX logo or the blacker than black bar appears!!!


P.S: My DMP-BD10 is an european model (Zone 2/B)

P.S. Excuse me for my english...


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *samperio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the Panny and the D2 too and they work together with no issues in audio and video.
> 
> Just a word: the Panny PASS BLACKER THAN BLACK! Just go to the brightness regulation of the player; the default value is 0. Try a value of 2 or 3 and you will see that the shadow of the THX logo or the blacker than black bar appears!!!
> 
> 
> P.S: My DMP-BD10 is an european model (Zone 2/B)
> 
> P.S. Excuse me for my english...



Greetings,


Samperio, thanks for the reply. The problem with adjusting the brightness to see the below black bars on DVE is that you are raising the black level of the player. This does not provide optimum black level settings. Leaving the players settings at default provides the best picture quality in my setup.


Regards,


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Samperio, thanks for the reply. The problem with adjusting the brightness to see the below black bars on DVE is that you are raising the black level of the player. This does not provide optimum black level settings. Leaving the players settings at default provides the best picture quality in my setup.
> 
> 
> Regards,



According to Stacey Spears, on the BR players thread, the Panny does not pass BTB on the digital HDMI output....



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sspears* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Dynamic Range - HDMI to HDMI*
> 
> Panasonic DMP-BD10
> 
> Above White - Fail - Clips
> 
> Below Black - Fail - Clips
> 
> Comments: The player has built-in picture controls. If you lower contrast down to -4 through -7, it will no longer clip. However, you are compressing the dynamic range. Steps are introduced, which show up as contouring. If you adjust brightness, you can make below black appear. If you do this, you are actually raising the black level of the player. I suspect this clipping may be caused by the bug in the Silicon Image 9030 HDMI transmitter. If they were to output Y'CbCr 4:2:2, it may fix the problem.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Filmixer, actually Stacy's response is that it CAN be done however it effects the black level of the player by raising it. Hence my comments.



Regards,


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Filmixer, actually Stacy's response is that it CAN be done however it effects the black level of the player by raising it. Hence my comments.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



You're right... and Kris Deering says that the component outs don't exhibit this behavior, and I believe that you can set the machine up to do component video and HDMI audio... I just got home and my Panny was sitting on the door step.. I'll have to compare comp vs hdmi for picture.. I am betting it will be very close...


Marc.


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As I mentioned earlier, I have a USB/Serial adapter which worked for saving the settings, but didn't work for me for upgrades. I tried upgrading 4 times or 5 times with no luck. I then used my laptop, which has a built-in serial adapter, and it worked the very first time. My USB/Serial adapter was WHQL tested/approved.




I highly recommend AGAINST using USB-Serial adapters. They're not reliable enough for things like firmware upgrades - you're just asking for trouble. Do you want to hear the story about the guy in the Army who was consoled into a defense system and had a malfuntion with his USB-Serial adapter???


You think you had problems !!


----------



## DonnieW

BTW - the 1.07 firmware fixed a couple of stability issues I had, in addition to a green screen issue I experienced from time to time. I think this is a positive update as I continue to experience absolutely NO significant problems.


The upgrade was eventless although it did take quite some time to complete. It appeared to be upgrading different 'chips' and provided some feedback as to its progress.


----------



## budeone

How often do they upgrade it?.. Is it something your check for 2x a year.. or do you guys check monthly?


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How often do they upgrade it?.. Is it something your check for 2x a year.. or do you guys check monthly?




If it ain't broke...


Otherwise I'd check in every few months for 'feature' upgrades. Also, if you are considering new components, check their site to see if there are any notes regarding those components.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DonnieW,

Where on the Anthem site did you find any info regarding other components?

--Bob


----------



## DonnieW

Nothing definitive Bob, but I found a comment in the readme files included with the updates that suggests they have addressed issues with a certain DVD player.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonnieW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BTW - the 1.07 firmware fixed a couple of stability issues I had, in addition to a green screen issue I experienced from time to time. I think this is a positive update as I continue to experience absolutely NO significant problems.



NOW if it was only available to mere mortals


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How often do they upgrade it?.. Is it something your check for 2x a year.. or do you guys check monthly?



Nice people usually give a heads up here. Really nice people will even post a URL for the D2 and AVM-50 downloads


----------



## DonnieW

I agreed to do a beta test of it. Frankly, I've yet to get back to Anthem on details of my testing. Rather than knee-jerk a response to them, I gave it a good couple weeks worth of real family use. So far everything is perfect. I previously experienced a green screen from time to time on my OTA tuner. The issue is now gone. I've also got a bullet-proof connection to my Denon 3910 - which I can only attribute to the solid firmware upgrade on the Anthem.


Fair to say the firmware is in beta so it shouldn't be floated around. Let's ask Anthem when they're planning a final.


Donnie


----------



## obie_fl

If you email tech support and ask nicely Nick will send you a copy but this is a beta. I'm running with the released 1.06 without issue so if I load the beta it will be for testing only. I will say it looks like they have gotten things pretty stable in the firmware and appear to be starting to add new features.


----------



## Carl_Ballard

Is there a listing somewhere of what the various firmware updates add/fix?


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carl_Ballard* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a listing somewhere of what the various firmware updates add/fix?



Here you go, this is from the AVM-50 file. Notice it lists the latest firmware upgrade first.



CHANGE LIST


v1.06:


1. Increased HDMI compatibility with a certain DVD player.


2. Removed from menu 8 output resolutions which can't always be supported by HDMI connection due to bandwidth restriction. **YOU MAY NEED TO RESET OUTPUT RESOLUTION IN MENU 8 depending on which you had set. If you cannot see an image on your display after the update, use the front panel display to navigate through the menu. Even if you are getting a picture immediately after this update, check menu 8 to make sure that the output resolution and refresh rate are set correctly since the setting may have changed to another that works, but with lower performance.


If you are saving your settings in menu 12, be sure to back them up after making this change.


If you were using Settings Editor, the wrong value will may stored there. After the software update, save the setup again using Setup Editor v1.06 (now called Setup Editor to prevent confusion with the Live Video Settings Editor).



v1.04:


1. Increased compatibility with HDMI-connected equipment that doesn't follow all of the HDMI spec.


2. Added adjustments for analog video inputs - see pdf file.


Tip: If you are using S-Video inputs and prefer the appearance of the hi-def OSD characters vs the default S-Video ones, you can enable the HD characters with S-Video inputs, although they will appear only when a video signal is present - change first item in menu 11 to HD Only.



v1.00 D2 / v1.01 AVM 50:


1. Initial releases.


----------



## budeone

I just had a installer for A/V here on another issue. He told me my sat box should be set at 1080i not 480p. Im using the h20 Hd box.


I thought I read the Sat box should be set low. I know I have the DVD player set at 480i.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just had a installer for A/V here on another issue. He told me my sat box should be set at 1080i not 480p. Im using the h20 Hd box.
> 
> 
> I thought I read the Sat box should be set low. I know I have the DVD player set at 480i.




There should be two settings within the cable box menu. One for HD, the other for SD. You will want to use 1080i or 720p, depending on your displays native resolution. There should be another setting for "override" (this is what the moto boxes uses, not sure on yours), this should be set to 480i for your standard def programs. This way the Anthem scaler will take over and feed your display its native resolution.


----------



## budeone

I dont see that. Its a h20 box about a week old. In the menu it gives me 4 choices.

480i

480p

720p

1080i


and the 4.3 and 6.9


----------



## Bob Pariseau

budeone,

Set your h20 to 16:9 (wide screen) output since that's the type of TV you have. You probably also want to set it to letter/pillar-box mode so that any 4:3 (SDTV) content will be shown undistorted (but with pilllar box bars on either side).


Set the h20 to output 1080i since it doesn't have a pass through mode.


SDTV (480i) programs will be upscaled by the h20 to 1080i -- not ideal since it's scaler is not great shakes. HDTV 720p programs will also be upscaled to 1080i. But HDTV 1080i programs will be sent to the AVM-50 unchanged.


It is not ideal that the SDTV and the HDTV 720p signals get scaled by the h20. And if you want the best imaging you could manually change the h20 output to 480i and 720p when watching such programming (leaving the AVM-50 to do any scaling from there -- in which case see the comments below regarding 480i pillar boxing). But most HDTV channels are 1080i -- the most important exception being some sports programming. So if you are only going to use one output resolution from the h20, then 1080i is your best bet so that the scaler in the h20 is used as little as possible for HDTV watching, which is, after all, when you want the best results.


If the h20 software is ever upgraded to include a pass-through mode (a mode where the output resolution simply tracks whatever resolution is currently coming in on the channel you are watching) then that's the best mode for you to use in the h20. However that makes things a little more confusing in another way. When watching SDTV content (480i 4:3 content) you *DO NOT* want the h20 to generate the pillar box bars. That's because those bars will take up some of the horizontal resolution. Instead set it to have the 4:3 image fill the screen from left to right. Although that looks "stretched" actually it means the h20 is doing nothing. [The 720 pixels across each of the 480 lines ares simply interpreted as being fatter.] Then set the AVM-50 to Letter/Pillar Box instead of Anamorphic. The AVM-50 will then generate the necessary bars on either side so that your 4:3 imagery is undistorted. However it does that at the high resolution going to your display so you don't lose horizontal resolution.


You do this same trick with your DVD player. Tell it you have a 16:9 TV, tell it to send 480i, and tell it to *NOT* generate the pillar box bars itself if you happen to be watching a DVD with 4:3 content on it (such as DVDs of regular TV shows or of old movies). Instead let the AVM-50 generate the pillar box bars in those cases. The horizontal resolution you retain doing it this way is quite dramatic and particularly improves color resolution (since color resolution is already only half of the gray scale resolution).

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks

If you are referring to the HR20, go to Menu---Help & Setting----Setup-Display and choose Native, which lets the HR-20 automatically select the resolution of the program as it is being broadcast.


----------



## budeone

Ok,, I am changing it back to 1080i on the Sat box.


Everyone who has come over and seen this set up was just shocked on how clear the pic is.


I finally got to sound to come out of the rear speakers so now it sounds MUCH better than it did.


Nick is still working on my set up.. I had to send him a file today to see why I get gibberish on my display.


I bought a cooler dish to put under the AVM to cool it down so it would stop over heating and shut off.


I also bought a new panamax and have just the TV-SAT-VCR running of that one and it has not shut down once.



It is all coming together with your guys help!!!


Thanks!!!


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I dont see that. Its a h20 box about a week old. In the menu it gives me 4 choices.
> 
> 480i
> 
> 480p
> 
> 720p
> 
> 1080i



Are the above mutually exclusive? In other words can you only select one at a time? I know on my cable box I can select all four resolutions effectively making it pass-thru.


----------



## budeone

I can take off all but 480p


480p stays on no matter what I do.. I can take off 1080i and 720p


----------



## obie_fl

So you can have 480P, 1080i, and 720P all selected at once? If so that is what you want.


----------



## budeone

Ok,, I will turn them all on..


what about that Native?


Keep that one as well?


----------



## obie_fl

Opps I missed yatchaks post, "native" is what you want. Sorry for the confusion.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

budeone,

I haven't used an h20 myself, but "native" sounds very much like it might be the "pass through" mode I described above. If that's the case then that's the one you want to use. Let the h20 send along whatever resolution it gets as input from the satellite without the h20 doing any scaling at all.

--Bob


----------



## Carl_Ballard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here you go, this is from the AVM-50 file. Notice it lists the latest firmware upgrade first.
> 
> 
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v1.06:
> 
> 
> 1. Increased HDMI compatibility with a certain DVD player.
> 
> 
> 2. Removed from menu 8 output resolutions which can't always be supported by HDMI connection due to bandwidth restriction. **YOU MAY NEED TO RESET OUTPUT RESOLUTION IN MENU 8 depending on which you had set. If you cannot see an image on your display after the update, use the front panel display to navigate through the menu. Even if you are getting a picture immediately after this update, check menu 8 to make sure that the output resolution and refresh rate are set correctly since the setting may have changed to another that works, but with lower performance.
> 
> 
> If you are saving your settings in menu 12, be sure to back them up after making this change.
> 
> 
> If you were using Settings Editor, the wrong value will may stored there. After the software update, save the setup again using Setup Editor v1.06 (now called Setup Editor to prevent confusion with the Live Video Settings Editor).
> 
> 
> 
> v1.04:
> 
> 
> 1. Increased compatibility with HDMI-connected equipment that doesn't follow all of the HDMI spec.
> 
> 
> 2. Added adjustments for analog video inputs - see pdf file.
> 
> 
> Tip: If you are using S-Video inputs and prefer the appearance of the hi-def OSD characters vs the default S-Video ones, you can enable the HD characters with S-Video inputs, although they will appear only when a video signal is present - change first item in menu 11 to HD Only.
> 
> 
> 
> v1.00 D2 / v1.01 AVM 50:
> 
> 
> 1. Initial releases.



I'm at 1.04. Don't see anything in the 1.06 release that I need.


Thanks.


----------



## tcoles

I have a tough decision in front of me and looking for some advice. I picked up a used set Paradigm Reference Signature series speakers and my older Yamaha RX-V1 is in need of being upgraded.


I've been looking closely at the AVM-50/A2/A5 or the D2/P2/P5. With all of the negativity regarding overheating and HDMI issues I'm considering holding off and just picking up an AVM-30 or the B&K Ref50 and 200.7 amp.


My Anthem dealer tells me the overheating issues have been resolved but he doesn't have any confidence in the current version of HDMI. He tells me that 1.3 is a step in the right direction and is told that it should be available from Anthem around April 07 and the upgrade should be $300-$500.


I have a Sony SXRD television so I would like to take advantage of the scaler but I'm concerned with all of the issues I read about on this site.


Thanks in advance for your recommendations!


----------



## Ed Weinman

I don't know if this is the place to ask this but...here goes...


I have the D1 and have been hoping for the upgrade to the D2. However, I really do not want, at this point, the video processing aspect of the D2...only the HDMI-audio related sound.


PureLink has a new switching unit, the HS-42A (4-in, 2-out HDMI) which lists at $699.00.


One of its features allows for "HD digital audio breakout from HDMI input signal (Coax and digital Optical output for easy audio reouting via existing AV receiver)."


Does this mean that I could use this switcher mainly for its digital audio breakout to be connected to the digital audio on the D1 so that I could take advantage of, and hear, the new Dolby/DTS codacs coming? (Hope this is clear!)


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tcoles* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a tough decision in front of me and looking for some advice. I picked up a used set Paradigm Reference Signature series speakers and my older Yamaha RX-V1 is in need of being upgraded.
> 
> 
> I've been looking closely at the AVM-50/A2/A5 or the D2/P2/P5. With all of the negativity regarding overheating and HDMI issues I'm considering holding off and just picking up an AVM-30 or the B&K Ref50 and 200.7 amp.
> 
> 
> My Anthem dealer tells me the overheating issues have been resolved but he doesn't have any confidence in the current version of HDMI. He tells me that 1.3 is a step in the right direction and is told that it should be available from Anthem around April 07 and the upgrade should be $300-$500.
> 
> 
> I have a Sony SXRD television so I would like to take advantage of the scaler but I'm concerned with all of the issues I read about on this site.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for your recommendations!



Now that I have most of mine working with the help of the members here.. I love it. You almost have to see and hear it to really know the money was well spent. imho


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't know if this is the place to ask this but...here goes...
> 
> 
> I have the D1 and have been hoping for the upgrade to the D2. However, I really do not want, at this point, the video processing aspect of the D2...only the HDMI-audio related sound.
> 
> 
> PureLink has a new switching unit, the HS-42A (4-in, 2-out HDMI) which lists at $699.00.
> 
> 
> One of its features allows for "HD digital audio breakout from HDMI input signal (Coax and digital Optical output for easy audio reouting via existing AV receiver)."
> 
> 
> Does this mean that I could use this switcher mainly for its digital audio breakout to be connected to the digital audio on the D1 so that I could take advantage of, and hear, the new Dolby/DTS codacs coming? (Hope this is clear!)



The answer is no.. you need an HDMI capable receiver or processor.. this will only give you DD and DTS bitstreams from the HDMI feed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ed,

Traditional coax and optical digital audio connections do not have the bandwidth to carry the audio info encoded with the new codecs. Splitting the audio out of the HDMI connection this way won't do what you are trying to do.

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman

Thanks, FilmMixer/Bob...hope the D2 upgrade isn't too far off.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

tcoles,

There's always something just around the corner (i.e., 6 months out).


The problem with HDMI is shoddy implementations in too many devices and cables. The V1.3 standard can, and likely will, still be poorly implemented by folks who just want it in there as a check-off (i.e., marketing) item. Cable company boxes for example.


From a practical perspective, there's nothing that V1.3 HDMI brings to the table that makes any real difference over V1.1, and that's likely to be true for a few years out.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tcoles* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been looking closely at the AVM-50/A2/A5 or the D2/P2/P5. With all of the negativity regarding overheating and HDMI issues I'm considering holding off and just picking up an AVM-30 or the B&K Ref50 and 200.7 amp.
> 
> 
> My Anthem dealer tells me the overheating issues have been resolved but he doesn't have any confidence in the current version of HDMI. He tells me that 1.3 is a step in the right direction and is told that it should be available from Anthem around April 07 and the upgrade should be $300-$500.



I don't think your dealer has good info about Anthems future plans....


1.3 gives you a whole lot of nothing, IMO. Deep color will do nothing for video.... the current infrastructure for all consumer video formats is not set up to support it.. You can fully enjoy all of the advanced audio codecs now, and 1.3 won't let you pass DD+/THD on HD DVD as it stands, so you gain nothing.. People need to start realizing that since we have moved to digital MC connectiviity, the players should do as good of a job converting codecs to PCM as the proc/receiver.. Once again, I feelHDMI 1.3 is just an excuse for manufacturers to sell you something you don't really need, and I know I am not the only one who feels this way...


I have serial # 660 D2... not one problem and all 4 HDMI inputs are being used (A1, Panny BR, Oppo DVD, Directv) and is feeding a Ruby with a 30ft DVI cable... amazing picture and sound.. no heat issues.... the scaler performance is magnificent...


I say go for it.


----------



## tcoles

Thanks Bob, FilmMixer, and Budeone. It's good to hear that you're having success. I know the effort of working through the implementation will make the outcome even sweeter.


Now the tough part.... D2/P2/P5 or the AVM/A2/A5?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carl_Ballard* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm at 1.04. Don't see anything in the 1.06 release that I need.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Download at Anthem Download Site for the AVM-50 or the corresponding site for the D2 D2 Upgrade 


There is a 1.07 version coming out if you want to wait on the hassle.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Download at Anthem Download Site for the AVM-50 or the corresponding site for the D2 D2 Upgrade
> 
> 
> There is a 1.07 version coming out if you want to wait on the hassle.



Carl,


Reread your post, and if you don't need a fix most people let these complex systems alone (don't fix what isn't broken) but some of us like to upgrade as a matter of course.


----------



## nine ball

tcoles and all lurkers,

I have been following this thread almost from day one. I was enormously affected by the observations and content to the point where I junked ALL my existing equipment and built a new infrastucture. This in a half million dedicated single purpose true home theater in a separate octagonal building. The primary building block was the decision to go with the D2 and P5/P2 combination. this is paired with the ruby. I cannot tell you how profoundly well fitted this solution is. This thread has helped me to understand some of the complexities in a continued pursuit of excellence but I tip my hat to those who have similar combinations. It is clear to me that this works and is profoundly better that 98% of the attempts to enjoy the advances in high definition video and sound. I can afford just about anything and have a pretty good notion that this particular grouping beats just about anything in the market at three time the price. You cannot go wrong with these reccomendations you have been getting from the folks in this thread. Having said that I am still running on ver 1.00 and have the occasional blue and green screen but live with it. I have not been successful in getting the upgrade to work yet for most of the reasons noted above. Apart from the stability issues with the HDMI stuff noted can anyone tell me if there are audio codecs that I am missing by not upgrading????


----------



## tycoondog2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> tcoles and all lurkers,
> 
> I have been following this thread almost from day one. I was enormously affected by the observations and content to the point where I junked ALL my existing equipment and built a new infrastucture. This in a half million dedicated single purpose true home theater in a separate octagonal building. The primary building block was the decision to go with the D2 and P5/P2 combination. this is paired with the ruby. I cannot tell you how profoundly well fitted this solution is. This thread has helped me to understand some of the complexities in a continued pursuit of excellence but I tip my hat to those who have similar combinations. It is clear to me that this works and is profoundly better that 98% of the attempts to enjoy the advances in high definition video and sound. I can afford just about anything and have a pretty good notion that this particular grouping beats just about anything in the market at three time the price. You cannot go wrong with these reccomendations you have been getting from the folks in this thread. Having said that I am still running on ver 1.00 and have the occasional blue and green screen but live with it. I have not been successful in getting the upgrade to work yet for most of the reasons noted above. Apart from the stability issues with the HDMI stuff noted can anyone tell me if there are audio codecs that I am missing by not upgrading????



What other equipment did you demo before deciding on the D2?


----------



## nine ball

tycoondog2,

pretty well ran the gamut I believe....i wouldn't want to turn my comments into a challenge of one brand against another as is all too often the case on these things. I'm not saying anything negative against other configurations consistently noted in this forum....they're all pretty good, all I'm suggesting is that the D2/p5/p2,ruby,tosh Xa1,oppo to name a few produce by far the best results. Runco, meridian, macintosh,sharp,panny,denon 5805 II,have all been mixed and matched to name a few (most of which I have owned....but the current batch address the most opportunities for a better hi def experience than anything I have seen or have been able to research. I also have settled on the escient/sony carousel but to date use that config to simply find my standard DVD's because the sony 777es stinks compared to the oppo and or tosh. I have not been able to get the video performance from the HP 588 entertainment center which has approx 20 ter raid 5 attached. I have not started to address the myriad of issues with the digital chain of challenges in 'backing up' the 3K SD DVD's which is my real objective in the short and long run. But for the life of me I can't understand why there isn't more enthusiam for a device with such a stellar audio performance that now challenges the best dedicated video processors at such a reasonable cost. But thats another whole thread!!!!! suffice it to say that I doubt anyone can describe (for today at least) a collection of devices that can equal or beat the funtionality of the components I've described in my rack at any price....period! The d2 ruby is a better match than say any of the runco 3 chip DLP and the gen graphics in the D2.


----------



## nine ball

addendum,


The real culprit that clearly influenced the majority of choices in my selection was Mr. Levesque who started this thread. The final decision was mine however as I've never met the Levesque and wouldn't know of him outside of his musings on this thread......however I owe him a deep debt of gratitude as I have never enjoyed this hobby more than at this time with this equipment......


p.s. my wife hates him!!!!!!


peter


----------



## yatchaks

*Bob Pariseau*,


I noticed your experimenting with the Velodyne DD15 and Anthem combo. I'm curious, have you attempted to play around with Anthem's room resonance filters when running the DD15?


Early in the Velo thread, Curt was asked about the Anthem filter, but he wasn't familiar with it, but thought it might not be wise (but said to experiment) to use any additional filtering with the DD series subs.


Your thoughts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nine ball,

You are not missing any audio codecs or other substantial features by delaying your D2 firmware upgrade. There were additional tools added for adjusting imaging from S-video sources, and some additional D2 generated video test charts, but up to now the firmware changes have essentially all dealt with stability issues.


As far as doing the upgrade itself, the best advice I can give you is to acquire a Windows PC that has a BUILT-IN serial port and use that instead of any sort of USB Serial adapter or the like. Also, make sure that all other equipment, particularly ANY other HDMI or DVI video source or display equipment connected to the D2 is turned *OFF* when trying to do the D2 upgrade. For example, if your HDMI or DVI display is connected and powered on then the D2 firmware upgrade will likely fail when it gets to the point of trying to replace the scaler software.


EDITED TO ADD: This is true up to the current V1.06 release now on the Anthem web site. However the NEXT release, currently in field testing as V1.07, is rumored to have some true feature upgrades. So keep an eye out for that one.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yatchaks,

I'm using the Velodyne DD-15 in a corner configuration and it sounds very good indeed. I've got the D2 set to THX Ultra2 subwoofer with Boundary Gain Compensation turned on to reduce the effects of the corner -- I've not really got the option of different positioning.


My listening room has, umm, interesting bass response issues, and I'm giving the parametric filters in the DD-15 a real workout flattening things out. For a while I also used the one parametric filter in the D2. But in my current setup I've found I can get a nice response curve without complicating things by using the D2 filter as well.


However in my experiments with the DD-15 and with other subwoofers I can tell you that the one filter offered by the D2 works just as advertised. Its greatest limitation is that its center frequency setting is limited by the current cross-over setting, so that you can't use it to fix a problem that's just above the cross-over point for example.


I've also had good luck using the "advanced" cross-over features in the D2 where the cross-over for the mains is set differently from the cross-over for the subwoofer. Overlap adds volume near the cross-over point, and non-overlap (or splay as I call it) reduces volume near the cross-over point.


That said, I've had some problems with my DD-15 shutting down which Velodyne is trying to sort out right now. I'll be doing some more tests next week but they have a suspicion that the Boundary Gain Compensation option in the D2 is screwing up phase or something and thus causing the DD-15's servo to work overtime when fed the lowest frequencies. Personally I don't think that's likely to be the case. The shutdown problem has only arisen when I do extended sessions running the DD-15's internal test sweep (i.e., while experimenting with new manual EQ settings). I've had no such problem during normal listening.


One of the things I am trying to do with the manual EQ on the DD-15 is to come up with the best "compromise" filter settings to produce the best response curve at several different listening positions in the room. If the room were better sound treated or if I had the option of alternate sub positioning this might not be necessary. But as it is, being able to keep complete control of how the EQ is set, and being able to see the response so easily and quickly by just moving the mike from position to position makes this a very feasible exercise. And although my response curve is not ideally flat at any one given listening position, it is close enough at ALL of them, and the subjective listening results have been OUTSTANDING.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,



> Quote:
> Apart from the stability issues with the HDMI stuff noted can anyone tell me if there are audio codecs that I am missing by not upgrading????



Peter, the answer to this question is NO. I do think that there are some features which you may find useful but the decision is of course up to you.


I am currently running software version 1.07d. My unit came with 1.01 installed and it has been upgraded to 1.03, 1.06 and now this latest version.


I believe in running the latest software/firmware in all of my gear. Quite a bit of audio gear passes throughmy system each year. I feel it is imperative that I keep my reference gear up to date (as per the manufacturer) to ensure compatibility issues remain current.


Best of luck with your gear !


Regards,


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> That said, I've had some problems with my DD-15 shutting down which Velodyne is trying to sort out right now. I'll be doing some more tests next week but they have a suspicion that the Boundary Gain Compensation option in the D2 is screwing up phase or something and thus causing the DD-15's servo to work overtime when fed the lowest frequencies. Personally I don't think that's likely to be the case. The shutdown problem has only arisen when I do extended sessions running the DD-15's internal test sweep (i.e., while experimenting with new manual EQ settings). I've had no such problem during normal listening.



I'm sorry to hear you are *still* dealing with this problem.

I have not had similar issue with my DD15. I have tried experimenting with the Boundary Gain Compensation since my DD is also close to a corner. I did notice the DD15's volume had to be raised much higher when using the Anthem's Boundary gain to obtain the appropiate listening level. However, I only used the Boundary gain for less than an hour, and have not used it since.


The DD series is simply amazing. Combining the DD series sub/software with the Anthem muscle truly creates an incredible experience.


----------



## FilmMixer

I have a feature request, if Nick is reading










When you show the info on screen for the D2, bit depth would be a welcome addtiion to the other info i.e. DIGITAL INPUT 6CH 48kHz....


----------



## obie_fl

FilmMixer - You reading my mind or something?? I was thinking the very same thing last night. Another feature I'd like to see although probably not doable with the present hardware would be separate assignable subwoofers outputs. I'd really like to run my main power woofers as stereo subs and LFE to my Sub. I'm assuming the D2 hardware is only eight channels and not ten though.


Been running my replacement D2 a couple of weeks now without any problems guess it is time to try out the 1.07d firmware.


----------



## sfield

Nick at Anthem sent me the beta 1.07d software. Good news...

This software fixes two of my three problems:


1. The green/magenta HDMI/DVI input switching problem. No more issues with having to power cycle the unit between switching video inputs! This was the most severe of the problems I observed.

2. 1920x1080p @24 works properly now, AFTER I set what appears to be a new option in the "7" video menu, labelled "Frame Lock" -- I set this to Auto (instead of the default off).



The EDID related problem with the HTPC still exists. (no video output unless I put the Gefen DVI detective between the HTPC and the D2). Nick was going to investigate another change for this.


Now that 24fps works correctly, I would LOVE to see a discrete IR code for switching between 60 and 24. Or, an "auto detect" mode, that would switch between 60 and 24 based on detecting the input material.


----------



## budeone

I added a plate cooler today and have had the Avm-50 running for a few hours and it feels like its not even turned on.


It works perfect. You cant even hear the fans.


----------



## nine ball

Bob and Ralph,

Thanks for your replies and comments. I will upgrade to the released 1.07 for sure assuming that I will be able to go straight from 1.00 to 1.07. I have made sure Bob that the HDMI devices have been turned off BUT I have tried with the serial usb hybrid. It worked to get the Sony 777ES carousel to respond to software commands coming from the newest HP entertainment center so I figured the 'driver' was good. However after several attempts to communicate with the D2 from a laptop I dropped the usb and fed the serial port directly from the serial port on my lap top.....still no joy! Soooo I am going out this afternoon to buy another serial cable assuming they still exist and will follow every step you have suggested from the beginning. Thank you for taking the time to respond to my note.

If I may ask one more simple question....I now have enough hours on the Ruby(about 350) to do my first serious calibration. Levesque even recommended a fellow who not only understood the Ruby but the D2 as well I think....however I lost his name^^^^ and now my question......

It seems to me that the goal at a minimum is to get the D2 to do most of the heavy lifting with respect to signal processing and the challenge is getting the originating device to send pure unfiltered source and then get the Ruby to leave the processed signal alone. If thats true then it seems to me that unless the individual calibrating my system is an expert with the D2 I am probably throwing my money away. In the same context how effective will the AVE HD DVD be for the 'do it yourselfer' which I don't pretend to be as I really don't understand how to get the Tosh Xa1 to NOT TOUCH the raw sig on the send to the D2 and then tell the Ruby not to touch all my hard work? Or have I missed something. I truthfully believe that the experience I am getting with the uncallibrated system is spectacular so the future seems to potentially offer close to a religious experience if I can get some of the next steps right.


Bob....anyone?


Peter


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob and Ralph,
> 
> Thanks for your replies and comments. I will upgrade to the released 1.07 for sure assuming that I will be able to go straight from 1.00 to 1.07. I have made sure Bob that the HDMI devices have been turned off BUT I have tried with the serial usb hybrid. It worked to get the Sony 777ES carousel to respond to software commands coming from the newest HP entertainment center so I figured the 'driver' was good. However after several attempts to communicate with the D2 from a laptop I dropped the usb and fed the serial port directly from the serial port on my lap top.....still no joy! Soooo I am going out this afternoon to buy another serial cable assuming they still exist and will follow every step you have suggested from the beginning. Thank you for taking the time to respond to my note.
> 
> If I may ask one more simple question....I now have enough hours on the Ruby(about 350) to do my first serious calibration. Levesque even recommended a fellow who not only understood the Ruby but the D2 as well I think....however I lost his name^^^^ and now my question......
> 
> It seems to me that the goal at a minimum is to get the D2 to do most of the heavy lifting with respect to signal processing and the challenge is getting the originating device to send pure unfiltered source and then get the Ruby to leave the processed signal alone. If thats true then it seems to me that unless the individual calibrating my system is an expert with the D2 I am probably throwing my money away. In the same context how effective will the AVE HD DVD be for the 'do it yourselfer' which I don't pretend to be as I really don't understand how to get the Tosh Xa1 to NOT TOUCH the raw sig on the send to the D2 and then tell the Ruby not to touch all my hard work? Or have I missed something. I truthfully believe that the experience I am getting with the uncallibrated system is spectacular so the future seems to potentially offer close to a religious experience if I can get some of the next steps right.
> 
> 
> Bob....anyone?
> 
> 
> Peter



I don't think that you need a D2 expert... I have had my Ruby calibrated by umr and it is spectacular. However, any source adjustments that need to made in the D2 are very easy to access and, IMO, don't require advanced knowledge of to properly tweak, especially for an ISF certified calibrator.


As far as the HD XA1.. set it's output to 1080i, set the D2's output to 1080p/60 and you're all set...


----------



## nine ball

FilmMixer,

Thank you....that is very encouraging advice but more importantly did I pick up on an earlier thread that you had something to do with the 'We were Soldiers" film. That wouldn't have been the audio mix would it? I have been know to say during showstopping demoes in my theater that the fellow who mixed Soldiers is one of about three individuals on the planet that truly understands what a sub should be doing and has been given the gift of knowing how to achieve it...!!!!! would you be this Demi God....at least in my small world?


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nine ball,

Be sure the serial cable that you get is a straight through cable -- pins 1-9 connected directly to pins 1-9. There's another common form of serial cable that swaps some of the lines for connecting different types of devices, and that one won't work. It is very easy to purchase that wrong form of serial cable by mistake. Radio Shack for example, labels their cable packaging to show how the pins are connected from one end to the other so you know what you are getting so long as you remember to check.


In the old days, the cable with the swapped wires (the style that WON'T work) was called a "null modem" cable, but today not all such cables are labeled that way.


----------------------------------------------------------


The ISF tech will do the most important part of the work inside your Ruby. Primarily he will make sure that the gray ramps, gamma, and color settings in the Ruby are as close to perfect as can be, and that the Ruby is set to accurately reproduce the signal being sent out by the Anthem. Then he will adjust the Anthem input settings for each source device as necessary to account for any variance from source device to source device.


The first step can be done using the Anthem's own internally generated test patterns, a light sensor, and a knowledge of how to adjust the Ruby. So no special Anthem knowledge is needed. The second step uses traditional level setting controls (e.g., Brightness and Contrast) in the Anthem input settings that will be no challenge to the tech at all.


The only tricky part is to make sure that the output resolution, sync, color space and format are set correctly in the Anthem. There are only a few choices so it is no challenge to learn this on the fly. Tell your ISF tech that your Anthem is a video processor (scaler and de-interlacer) and either loan him the Anthem manual in advance or point him to where he can download it from the Anthem web site if he wants to learn about it ahead of time.


The ISF tech should already be well acquainted with how to best set the picture modes or whatever in your Ruby and your source devices to turn off any bogus "torch mode" settings. There are no such problems in the Anthem.


One of the key things the ISF tech may bring is a signal generator for your TV set top box (e.g. either a cable style signal or an HDTV off air style signal). This lets him send known patterns through the set top box so that he can adjust the Anthem input settings correctly. It does what a test DVD does for the DVD player. Again, there is no special Anthem knowledge needed here.


My guess would be that your calibration may take a while simply because the tech will get fascinated by the Anthem and want to play with it.


----------------------------------------------------------------


The Avia calibration DVDs and competing products are well worth getting and learning how to use. You can do many tweaks on your own, but the key is learning what each tweak actually does. These test charts will help you develop an eye for that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nine ball,

Also be aware that the "Live Video Settings Editor" which is included in the V1.06 software update kit *DOES NOT WORK* with your current V1.00 software. So if you are using that one to try to Save your current settings prior to the upgrade it will report problems talking to the D2 which look like serial cable failures -- making you think you have serial problems. Live Video Settings Editor should work just fine AFTER you upgrade to V1.06.


Instead, use the Setup Editor (also included in the kit) to save your current settings to the PC prior to the upgrade and to restore them to the D2 after the upgrade. In addition, you will likely need to go in and manually correct the D2's Video Output settings after this upgrade-and-restore of settings since Anthem made a change there that affects such older restored settings.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball

Bob,

To give credit where it is due, you have correctly identified with approx 100% accuracy every pitfall I have encountered and been somewhat confounded by. I am on my way out to get the 'proper cable' and again I find your advice and coaching to be thorough and immensely helpful. Like another earlier devotee I am in awe of your patience and tolerance for these issues and find I too will have to print off your threads and painstakingly follow your logic. To a fault I am not a brand chaser but a disciple of that which works and works well. The D2 is in my less than humble opinion, a device that is opening a door to possibilities and enjoyment at a level I never expected. It truly is.....the stuff of dreams!

I am familiar with the DVE for standard def and swear by it for its effectiveness and educational value, especially for houseplants like myself. I am anxiously awaiting the availability of the second gen Tosh player to fully max the Ruby D2 capabilities. However at the age of sixty in Canada I may be long in the ground before I see one.


Thanks ever so much for your support and encouragement......I am off to get my straight through serial cable!


Peter

ps you were soooo right with the live video settings editor! hit the nail on the head!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> nine ball,
> 
> In addition, you will likely need to go in and manually correct the D2's Video Output settings after this upgrade-and-restore of settings since Anthem made a change there that affects such older restored settings.
> 
> --Bob



At a minimum you will need to fix the on screen menu setting, if you typically have it turned on for HDMI. It inexplicable resets to Svideo only, useful for other zones. It is easy to toggle back on despite not being carried over with the saved settings.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FilmMixer,
> 
> Thank you....that is very encouraging advice but more importantly did I pick up on an earlier thread that you had something to do with the 'We were Soldiers" film. That wouldn't have been the audio mix would it? I have been know to say during showstopping demoes in my theater that the fellow who mixed Soldiers is one of about three individuals on the planet that truly understands what a sub should be doing and has been given the gift of knowing how to achieve it...!!!!! would you be this Demi God....at least in my small world?
> 
> 
> Peter



Peter... I did mix "WWS" along with a fabulous sfx mixer (who is wholely responsible for the amazing fx mix on the film) and an amazing editorial crew.. For the most part, we mix a film in a 2 man team, I mix dialog and music, and my partner mixes sfx, backgrounds and foley......


Your words are too kind, and while I can't take credit for the amazing fx mix on the film, I am very proud of that track...


----------



## nine ball

Tim,

Thanks for the warning, now I will watch for that from the outset.


FilmMixer,

This is awesome! I have three M&K 350's and a fourth 150 for breadth. I always play WWS as an educational demonstration as to what to look for in assessing a perfect implementation of sub and appropriate use of LFE. The D2 has given even more strength to that assessment. The result is an acoustic painting that delivers its message beautifully without a single submarine. Even though U-571 and Das Boot are poignant reminders of excellent fx bass passages WWS. reaches a higher plane in showing us that there are other uses for LFE outside an explosion inside an oil drum. A truly sincere and heartfelt congratulation. You have established the top of the mountain with finesse. This is incredible to connect with anyone involved in such an artistic accomplishment. My advice to you if you haven't gone back to review it is to sit down and give it another listen through the D2. Never mind my comments, I'm sure you will be in awe like the rest of us.

Incredible..........


Peter


ps. Bob I have just returned from my failed mission to get my serial cable. I made three mistakes: First I went to Future Shop (Best Buy). Second, I tried to talk to someone employed there and three, I actually tried to follow his logic in explaining to me why I did not really want a straight through serial cable. If you have ever sat through the Abbot and Costello "Who's on first?" vignette you will, through the tears of laughter, begin to understand why I still haven't got my cable........ But I will persist.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> Thanks for the warning, now I will watch for that from the outset.
> 
> 
> FilmMixer,
> 
> This is awesome! I have three M&K 350's and a fourth 150 for breadth. I always play WWS as an educational demonstration as to what to look for in assessing a perfect implementation of sub and appropriate use of LFE. The D2 has given even more strength to that assessment. The result is an acoustic painting that delivers its message beautifully without a single submarine. Even though U-571 and Das Boot are poignant reminders of excellent fx bass passages WWS. reaches a higher plane in showing us that there are other uses for LFE outside an explosion inside an oil drum. A truly sincere and heartfelt congratulation. You have established the top of the mountain with finesse. This is incredible to connect with anyone involved in such an artistic accomplishment. My advice to you if you haven't gone back to review it is to sit down and give it another listen through the D2. Never mind my comments, I'm sure you will be in awe like the rest of us.
> 
> Incredible..........
> 
> 
> Peter



Peter.. FYI.. Michael, who I mixed "WWS" with, also mixed "Das Boot."


----------



## nine ball

FilmMixer,

I knew it !!!!! I just knew the same hand was in both films. The bolts....I knew it because of the bolts in Das Boot. When the pressure started to fire off the bolts there was a super clean sub-sonic LFE touch that was totally unique and stand out. The intent was to give the metal texture and substance without the boomy base that nine out of ten LFE mixers would have given in to for cheap effect. Totally awesome. With the D2 you can also almost taste the metal shavings from the threads!

I have a rack that holds 50 dvd's on display out of a central library of about 3 thousand films. The point of the display is that it is my top 50 of all time ....not so much for content but for AV production values. Das Boot is an unqualified number two and U571 is further down the rack but in the top 40.

I apologize for the side bar folks but one question that this discussion brings me to is whether or not it is recommended that the typical sub should be segmented from the LFE and is it possible with today's mix on the source. if so how would the D2 handle it if it is even possible???


WOW Das Boot.....this is just too much!


Peter


----------



## goenkar

Peter,


The Radio Shack part number of the serial cable that I use is 26-117B, Its a Male DB9 to Female DB9.


I had problems using a usb/serial also and had better luck using this cable with my laptop. I have an AVM-50 BTW.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nine ball,

All this technology and the hardest part to get right is basically just wire.


The Great Connector Conspiracy, still alive and well, is dedicated to the proposition that no two devices can be connected together simply, much less cheaply. I'm convinced these guys know full well how many buyers will just buy an additional cable (or two or three) without trying to return the original wrong cable.


But take heart! Wireless, multi-channel, high-res audio and HD video connections are the next big thing! If you think people pay too much for wire right now, you'll be AMAZED at what the market will be taught to bear in paying for basically, umm, nothing between their devices. And the new opportunties for incompatability are just mind boggling! Think of it as the Emperor's New Wiring.


After all, stores like Best Buy will have to struggle to replace the wopping profit margins they now make on Monster Cable. Wireless setups could easily be the new cash cow.


And then of course ALL the wire makers will be reduced to just making power cords. Even today you'll find "experts" that argue you should pay big bucks to make sure the last three feet of power connection to your devices deliver a pristine pure replica of the power coming out of the wall socket -- blithely ignoring the crap that the forty year old power station, three miles of squirrel-chewed utility wire, and a hundred feet of crappy wiring in the wall of your house have delivered to that Home Depot quality socket in the first place.


It would make a snake oil barker blush....

--Bob


----------



## nine ball

Goenkar,

Thank you for the info. I am off again to Radio Shack AKA "the Source" armed with proper cable info. I will prevail.


Bob,

You are right, living in a spaceship saucer like facility, a design from AREA 51, a 23 yr old home theater expert suggested that my D2 without an optional $3,000 18" power cord would be an ancient egyptian anvil. I humbly submit to you that I almost succumbed. I do believe that paying even more for nothing(wireless) is definitely in my future!


I am surprised however with the serial cord implementation for the updating of the Anthem product in this day and age........why not cut to the quick and use a USB interface? It would have been so much better on so many levels or heaven forbid a standard RJ 45 ethernet interface. Every single component in my rack is updateable over the internet and almost requires no human intervention to work flawlessly. The Anthem design philosophy is so advanced and well implemented in most other areas that I am surprised with this obvious throwback to the middle ages.

Speaking of connections, even with marginal immediate benefits can anyone tell me how Anthem will likely implement the HDMI 1.3 spec? Will it likely require a trip back to the factory or is it conceivable that some sort of adapter is possible?


I love the smell of solder in the morning.....some day this hobby will end!


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

HDMI 1.3, when and if it ever becomes important, will require a hardware change. The driver chips are different.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

In addition to new hardware I believe someone posted that it would be an entirely new platform (model) which makes sense as the AVM and D1/2 series is getting a little dated hence the lack of cool features like USB and ethernet mentioned above.


----------



## nine ball

Tom,

I don't know how but if the output improves then I will be first in line for the D3. Having said that I am unaware of a production unit available today that eclipses the D2 in the combined basket of features for both audio and video that is upgradeable to the extent of the Anthem architecture albeit over nine strands of straight through copper. I am assuming that by "dated' you mean that there is something out there that is better? I don't think I have come close to 10% of the tweaks in calibration suggested in this thread and I am in awe of even this level of achievement. The truth is if I tried to cover half of the material suggested here I would never get to watch anything just for the pure enjoyment for at least a year. Then again perhaps the D3 will come with a level of auto calibration that will put all of the domain experience surfacing in this thread to bed.

Then again I might not have met Bob and FilmMixer......and that would be sad!


Bob,

I have to tell you, I love your description of the last thirty feet! Accurate and so eloquently put.


----------



## obie_fl

All I was saying was the platform has been around for a while. Other devices do have features such as ethernet and USB and of course auto cal, which is supposed to happen on the D2 next year but not the AVM-50. I agree 100% with your post, the D2 and the AVM-50 have no peers when it comes to the total A/V package, which is why I own a D2.










Question of the day or feature request. Is there a way to switch the scaler from 4:3 pillarbox to anamorphic without going through the video menu? Very un-WAF friendly. Is there a remote discrete?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

obie_fl,

Hold down the Mode button on the remote for a bit and it will switch to a display of the current scaler setting. You can then use the up and down arrows to change it.


Pause briefly and press Mode again and you can then see and change whether the Edge cropping is turned on for TV channels with noise around some edge of the screen.


Pause briefly and press Mode again and you can see and change the Cropping mode -- useful for viewing a 16:9 movie which is otherwise letter boxed in a 4:3 SDTV frame.


I don't know if there are discretes for those though.

--Bob


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All I was saying was the platform has been around for a while.




I think that calling a D2 dated just because it's been around for awhile is like calling a Porsch 911 dated. Can't ignore the fact that it's a solid platform designed with room to grow.


----------



## obie_fl

Yea but sometimes I'd like a USB or ethernet port on my 911.










It's really the AVM platform that is starting to show its age since it has been stated it won't be getting the auto-cal/EQ system. The nice thing about Anthem is they have always provided very reasonable upgrade paths. Of course all those AVM20/30 and D1 owners waiting on the upgrade may disagree with me on that. Speaking of which, did the AVM-40 ever get released? Haven't heard anything about it in a while.


----------



## nine ball

Yesterday,

Just before I was to leave to get my male female db9 pin cable I put in the new HD DVD Pat Matheny concert and experienced a litany of quirks described by others that I had never personally seen before now. It was also the first DVD produced by Eagle Rock i have ever played.

First I got an image that was clear and concise but no sound. Tried to recycle the XA1 but no joy. then cycled through all outputs on the D2 and the SAT produced image but no audio. Then I recycled the D2 and got green screen followed by the red dominant intro. on the XA1 but when I cycled back to the SAT I got video and sound so I jumped to the DVD and got video and sound. So far I had attributed much of the confusion to HDMI instability but for some strange reason I had never experienced anything this concentrated before. I experienced my first stutter in image stability. Then it just froze but the XA1 looked like it was still motoring along because the counter continued to move and responded to pause commands while the picture remained frozen with no sound. I turned everything off and brought everything back on line finally with some more trial and error. Then the layer change ground everything to a halt but the sound continued. No matter what I did the messaging on the D2 stated 5.1 Dolby PLX II (I have the P5 plus the P2 for a 7.1 configuration even though I swapped through all the options except the pcm. I could chalk this up to the Eagle Rock production except that I played polar express and experienced another lockup on the layer change. I have been living with this setup for the last four months and have never had this kind of behaviour. I assume that a valid test would be to get my serial cable and do the upgrade (I was going to wait until the 1.07) but I'm not sure I want to wait. Does anyone know how long before the 1.07 official release?


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nine ball,

Based on the number of people who have mentioned they now have it, public release of V1.07 is probably only a few weeks away. Be advised that if you contact Anthem tech support they will likely offer it to you with the understanding that it is a Beta release still undergoing field testing.


The V1.06 release included major HDMI stability improvements over the original V1.00 software. Before fighting HDMI problems, you really owe it to yourself to at least upgrade to V1.06. With the right cable, and a PC with a built-in serial port, the upgrade process should be straightforward. If V1.00 continues to work for you then fine -- if it aint broke don't fix it. But if you are now starting to see annoying HDMI stability problems then your first step should be to upgrade the Anthem firmware.


[Note that there was also a V1.04 Beta version that was never publicly released -- it was suplanted by V1.06. So the next public release version might actually end up being something greater than V1.07.]


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


Also the Toshiba HD-DVD player has had important firmware uprade(s). It would be wise to get that as well if you don't already have it. Details can be found over on the HD-DVD Player forum here. Simply put, you get the firmware on a disc (i.e., make it yourself or get a pre-loaded disc from Toshiba), stick the disc in the player, incant the magic phrase, and it loads the new firmware from the disc. Alternatively, I understand you can get the player to go out over the internet and fetch the firmware itself -- in which case you need to be sure you do *NOT* have a movie disc in the player when you tell it to do this.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball

Thanks Bob,

The Xa1 is current 2.0 (over the internet) and appears to work well. (no disk when I did it) .

You are right, I have 1.06 on my laptop (older one with the proper serial port) and I will get my cable today. I have my weekly pool game tonight so I may have to wait til tomorrow for the fix. I have printed off your earlier advice on this topic and will attempt not to stay from your suggested plan!

Thanks.....good common sense as always.


Peter


----------



## rlockshin

I have just ordered a new D2 processor. I am replacing my old Meridian 565 equipment. Will I hear a difference ?

Also could someone sumarize all of the tips and tricks of this unit for me?

I am having it professionally installed and calibrated

Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

rlockshin,

I certainly hope you will hear a difference! The D2 is capable of an excellent listening experience, but what you will hear is dependent on the other equipment you have and how it is all set up.


As to summarizing tips and tricks:


1) Don't skimp on ventilation. There's a lot of high performance electronics in your D2 and it needs to dissipate the heat they produce.


2) Don't skimp on cables. Better cables will likely produce less frustration.


3) Let the D2 do the most important work. Turn off "enhancement" processsing in your source and destination devices. Set your source devices to transfer the original content to the D2 with the least possible processing (and let the D2 take it from there). Set the D2's output so that your destination devices have to do the least possible work upon receiving that signal.


4) Trust the default settings in the D2 until you have time to experiment with changing them. The D2's factory default settings are intelligently thought out.


5) The D2 provides a high degree of home theater integration, and is thus a pretty complex beast. And home theater at this level is inherently complicated as well. Take your time getting to understand it. Paying to have the unit set up and calibrated can indeed be money well spent, but you'll have more pride of ownership if you take the time to learn what's going on yourself even after that. Just keep it simple and tackle one piece at a time.


6) The D2 sits at the center of a lot of other electronics in your setup all of which can be electrically live even if you think they are idle. So heed this advice: Turn off the D2 AND ALL OTHER devices -- better yet disconnect them from wall power -- before connecting or disconnecting cables. Then double check BOTH ENDS of all cables before you restore power.


7) There are lots of useful tips and tricks in this thread, but unfortunately there is no summary post that collects the most interesting. Perhaps as a new owner you can start a summary of what you find most useful. If you run into a problem, don't get frustrated. There are lots of experienced owners here who will try to help. And Anthem tech support is highly regarded as well.


And welcome!

--Bob


----------



## nine ball

rlockshin,

I couldn't echo Bob's advice more. The D2 is a remarkable piece of equipment. Part of the challenge for you at the outset will be describing to your installer exactly what you want it to do. I've had mine for six months and I don't think I have scratched the surface but at its worst it has been a better audio and video experience than I have ever had in my home before. I must admit that the P5 and P2 additions with it appears to have been a wise decision as I am hearing a quality and depth I have never experienced before. My advice is very consistent with Bob's. Do take the time to get to know the technology but don't let it interfere with your enjoyment in the interim. Know that with each WOW there is a strong possibility that improvements are still awaiting you with further study and calibration. This thread is phenomenal and rich with detail for most of what you may encounter and I would strongly advise you to get your installer familiar with this forum thread on the D2 before you begin if possible. It will save an enormous amount of frustration to the educated professional.

You are in for a treat!!!!!!


Peter


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I added a plate cooler today and have had the Avm-50 running for a few hours and it feels like its not even turned on.
> 
> 
> It works perfect. You cant even hear the fans.



What plate cooler did you add?


dc


----------



## rlockshin

What are the P5 and P2 additions that you have mentioned? I am paying a large install cost for this piece. I was told that there are many calibrations that need to be done


----------



## Bob Pariseau

rlockshin,

The P5 and P2 are Anthem audio power amplifiers. The P5 is a 5 channel amp. The P2 is a 2 channel amp. The D2 is a pre-amp/processor and needs to be connected to power amps to drive the speakers. The Anthem power amps are just one possible way of doing this.


The video and audio setup process for a system including a D2 can be quite extensive -- partly depending upon how much other hardware you have as well, but mostly depending upon how far you are willing to go to try to reach perfection in the setup. But the most time consuming stuff is not really in the D2 itself. Setting levels and geometry properly on your display, sound treating the room and otherwise dealing with room audio problems (particularly with regard to your subwoofer(s)), and getting everything cabled up right can take some time. If you are getting a master remote control system, then programming that can also take time. But once all that is done, testing to adjust the various settings in the D2 should go pretty easily if your installer knows what he or she is doing and has the right equipment.


EDITED TO ADD: The Anthem D2 manual is available for download from the Anthem Statement web site (a PDF file) if you haven't already had a chance to look through it. It's pretty good at walking you through the process of what needs to be configured inside the D2.

--Bob


----------



## jcthomas

I am looking for a work around: I have the D2 fed at 480i component from my DVD player and feeding 720p to my projector over component. However, many DVD's with copy protection are restricted to 480p. I do not have a HDMI cable feeding the Projector and retrofitting same would be difficult. Is there a work around to allow the D2 to do all of the heavy lifting-----de-interlace and scale to 720p over component?


Regards,


----------



## nine ball

J Thomas,

I suspect the answer is in an earlier part of this very thread and Bob will have a proper and concise answer. If my research and actual experience is correct the originating signal must come from the DVD player via HDMI at 480i. Anything else and the D2 will think it is preprocessed and not bring the value of the tech to the party. Output to the projector does NOT have to go via HDMI but component at whatever the native res of the projector calls for...720P in your case. The restriction you refer to of 480P is to the best of my knowledge not been activated and would not affect non HD sourced material. There are a whole bunch of folks on this forum who know the answer to your question and I'm sure I will be corrected if I have strayed too far from the truth!


Peter


----------



## obie_fl

Are you saying the D2 can't upscale analog 480i to analog 720P when the source is copy protected? I haven't hooked up any of my analog gear but video scalers have been doing this for years. I didn't realize that copy protected analog couldn't be scaled, this doesn't sound right. How does the scaler know analog is copy protected, Macrovision?


Edit: What happens when you actually try to do this? Is there an error message or something?


----------



## jcthomas

The D2 scaler first seems to scale to 720 and then drops back to 480p with an on-screen warning re copy protection.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

jcthomas,

This is mentioned in the D2 manual in the section describing the various types of video connection. There are two limitations:


1) If the source is Component video protected by Macrovision then Component output is limited to 480p.


2) If the source is HDMI (or DVI) video protected by HDCP then the output is limited to HDMI only (no Component video for example) although it will still be scaled up HDMI. In addition, the destination device must by HDCP compliant as well. This can be a particular nuisance if you have a Zone 2 hookup since there is only Component (not HDMI) video output available.


I don't know a way around either of these restrictions. Presumably Anthem is bound by the licensing restrictions for these two forms of copy protection. Welcome to the ham fisted efforts of the video content industry attempting to stifle copying but in fact only screwing up legitimate use.

--Bob


----------



## Nathan_R

Ahhh, the power of Anthem-addiction. I sold my AVM-50 two months ago, but I purchased another one last night. I just couldn't stay away, guys!


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ahhh, the power of Anthem-addiction. I sold my AVM-50 two months ago, but I purchased another one last night. I just couldn't stay away, guys!




Welcome back Nathan.


I have to ask, why did you sell your AVM50? Did you purchase something else to replace it?


----------



## Nathan_R

No, I had some emergency bills to pay/help-with-paying for a family member, and selling my equipment seemed like the easiest way to get some cash quickly. While I was at it, I thought I could get out of HT entirely, but I failed miserably at that, too.










So here I am, searching for a cheap amp to match my AVM-50 when it arrives next week. I think I'm going to pick up an Emotiva LPA-1 until I can afford another MCA-50.


In all honesty, watching ANYTHING without the Anthem was complete hell. I couldn't believe how spoiled I had become with the scaler and hdmi+audio switching/processing.


----------



## DrJRapp

NAthan


Welcome back!


If you need amps buy something cheap and reliable used tyhat can be resold when you are redy to move up, for example .....Check this out http://www.martinloganowners.com/~td...ead.php?t=2942


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,



Nathan, Welcome back ! I remember when you sold your gear and indicated that you were getting out of home theater.


Good to see you back...



Regards,


----------



## Nathan_R

I think I'm either going to pick up a local used MCA-50 for $1400 today (ugh) or a used Rotel 1075 for $750. I'm not crazy about the MCA-50's asking price, but there are no moderately-priced Anthem amps on Audio/Videogon right now and I need an amp stat.


Any thoughts?



Edit: I just called called about the Rotel and it's already gone. I'm trying to get the MCA-50 for a bit less now.


Edit2: Grrrr, after driving from one side of Atlanta to the other, I discovered that the dealer had an MCA-20, and not an MCA-50. So, I just ordered an Emotiva LPA-1 to tide me over for a few months.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Nathan, I would go with the Rotel. It is a great amp for that price.



Regards,


----------



## shah993

I want to use my projector as well as the hdtv with hdmi.Is this possible with the D2 or do I need to use component and HDMI?Any suggestions welcome.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2 has only one HDMI output.


You can use the Main or the Zone2 Component video outputs to drive a second screen. The Main output shows what the HDMI output shows (but see below for a gotcha!).


The Zone2 Component output can be set to 1 of 3 uses:


1) Duplicate the Main Component output (i.e., processed output of the Main path's selected video input).


2) Show an UNprocessed version of the Main path's selected video input -- this is just a pass through of the input to the output.


3) Show an UNprocessed version of a different video input selected for the Zone2 path while the Main output(s) continue to show the Main path's selected video input (processed).


The gotcha is that if the source is an HDMI device playing copy protected content, then the Component outputs are disabled. I haven't played with this enough to see if you can get Zone2 Component out by setting it to the third mode above even though the Main input is protected HDMI. It is also the case that most HDMI source devices will automatically turn Component output off and on depending upon whether the HDMI display is on or off respectively. This might be a way to go if you need only one of the two displays active at any given time.


This strikes me as being a pretty serious gotcha for folks trying to run two displays off the D2, however I suspect that I haven't really understood how to best use the input configuration options to work around this.


It would be useful to get some sample configurations posted here from folks here who have found multi-display configuration solutions.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I want to use my projector as well as the hdtv with hdmi.Is this possible with the D2 or do I need to use component and HDMI?Any suggestions welcome.



You will need an external box/HDMI splitter to mirror the Anthem HDMI output to two devices (of the same resolution characteristics). There have been DVI boxes that have done this (with DVI-HDMI adapters), and newer HDMI boxes (I haven't tested the latter) that mirror 1:2 or 1:4 HDCP compatible input to (only) HDCP compatible devices.


One side benefit of leaving my Moto HD cablebox on component (besides the nightmare of hassles usinf HDMI) is that I do route it to a component input & use the #2 method below to a 1920x1200 computer monitor.


As I use my HD Tivo Series 3 more, I notice I am firing up the projector more.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 has only one HDMI output.
> 
> 
> You can use the Main or the Zone2 Component video outputs to drive a second screen. The Main output shows what the HDMI output shows (but see below for a gotcha!).
> 
> 
> The Zone2 Component output can be set to 1 of 3 uses:
> 
> 
> 1) Duplicate the Main Component output (i.e., processed output of the Main path's selected video input).
> 
> 
> 2) Show an UNprocessed version of the Main path's selected video input -- this is just a pass through of the input to the output.
> 
> 
> 3) Show an UNprocessed version of a different video input selected for the Zone2 path while the Main output(s) continue to show the Main path's selected video input (processed).
> 
> 
> The gotcha is that if the source is an HDMI device playing copy protected content, then the Component outputs are disabled. I haven't played with this enough to see if you can get Zone2 Component out by setting it to the third mode above even though the Main input is protected HDMI. It is also the case that most HDMI source devices will automatically turn Component output off and on depending upon whether the HDMI display is on or off respectively. This might be a way to go if you need only one of the two displays active at any given time.
> 
> 
> This strikes me as being a pretty serious gotcha for folks trying to run two displays off the D2, however I suspect that I haven't really understood how to best use the input configuration options to work around this.
> 
> 
> It would be useful to get some sample configurations posted here from folks here who have found multi-display configuration solutions.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, for what it's worth, I am using the D2's HDMI out for my Main zone, powering a Sony Qualia HDTV, and I use the Zone2 Component out for my second zone, in other words option #3 in your list, to power my Sharp Aquos in the master bedroom. There is no problem at all with displaying protected content in the second zone over Component, while it plays the same content over HDMI in the Main zone. In fact, we do that all the time. And of course, the wonderful thing is that my better half can go watch Gilmore Girls in the master bedroom (broadcast and passed to the bedroom in "unprocessed" native 1080i from the Series 3 Tivo), while I play XBox 360 in HD in the Main Zone on the Qualia. Ahh yes, domestic harmony!


By the way, one of the BEST things about the Tivo Series 3 is that every video output is active simultaneously, unlike the old HR10-250 Tivo from DirecTV. So, the HDMI output and the Component outputs are active simultaneously (as is SVideo and Composite), which is critical for all the "many to many" combinations of switching that the D2 gives me in each of the 3 zones + Record zone.


I know this is probably obvious to all, but I still can't get over the fact that just several years ago, having the ability to control a total of 4 zones from one central "brain" like the D2, with fully independent many to many switching in each zone of the house, would have been a monumental task. A guy in my shoes would have had to buy separate systems for each room, pouring money into amps/pre-amps, multiple duplicate source components, etc. That's all ancient history now - I have a vast set of source components, and they are all centrally situated in the Main Zone, all connected to the D2, but with totally independent control from anywhere in the house to any zone. God I love technology.


[off soapbox]


I hope you are all getting as much joy out of the D2 as I am. This thing has saved me money when you really look at it, and for a fairly pricey component, that says alot.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Brian,

So the key in your case is that the Tivo S3 is live on both HDMI and Component all the time -- presumably because the broadcast copy protection flags are not being broadcast yet right?


You've got the Main Tivo input via HDMI and the Zone2 Tivo input via Component right?


That leaves you good to go unless and until the broadcast guys try to sneak back in the flags.


DirecTV had one channel they deliberately transmitted with the protection flag turned on to test that required HDCP handshake was working. But of course as you note, their older Tivo HD-DVR wouldn't do Component out when HDMI was live even if the protection flag was OFF.


--------------------------------------------------------


And if you've got some other protected input on Main (such as a standard DVD player connected via HDMI), the Zone2 Component out isn't affected as long as it doesn't also try to look at that DVD player right?

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Brian,
> 
> So the key in your case is that the Tivo S3 is live on both HDMI and Component all the time -- presumably because the broadcast copy protection flags are not being broadcast yet right?
> 
> 
> You've got the Main Tivo input via HDMI and the Zone2 Tivo input via Component right?
> 
> 
> That leaves you good to go unless and until the broadcast guys try to sneak back in the flags.
> 
> 
> DirecTV had one channel they deliberately transmitted with the protection flag turned on to test that required HDCP handshake was working. But of course as you note, their older Tivo HD-DVR wouldn't do Component out when HDMI was live even if the protection flag was OFF.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> And if you've got some other protected input on Main (such as a standard DVD player connected via HDMI), the Zone2 Component out isn't affected as long as it doesn't also try to look at that DVD player right?
> 
> --Bob



No, Bob, I think you've got this wrong. I can watch any protected source, including a DVD playing over HDMI and Component simultaneusly, watching the DVD player via HDMI in the Main Zone and watching the very same DVD in the bedroom aka Zone 2 at the same time. We do this all the time as well.


And, by the way, Comcast HD is broadcasting some things with copy protection flag active on certain channels. The Series 3's ability to keep multiple video outputs active simultaneusly is not why this works. It works across the board for some other reason, without fail, even with copy protection flags active on certain content.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> By the way, one of the BEST things about the Tivo Series 3 is that every video output is active simultaneously, unlike the old HR10-250 Tivo from DirecTV. So, the HDMI output and the Component outputs are active simultaneously



Wow, that's great news. I think I'll be doing some recabling tonight


----------



## obie_fl

Are you sure the component output isn't down rez'ed to 480P?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've finally completed the bass EQ with the Velodyne DD-15 in my setup. Between the DD-15 features and the Anthem D2 features there are many ways to solve problems in the bass arena, and it can literally take weeks working through the possibilities and doing critical listening.


Features I'm using in the D2:


1) THX Ultra2 Subwoofer = YES


[Anthem gives no details about what this setting does. One obvious thing it does is disable the D2's subwoofer peak volume limiter (leaving it to the subwoofer to protect itself). I suspect this setting also eliminates any subsonic filter in the D2 -- letting even lower frequencies go out to the subwoofer. It may also have some impact if the THX post processing is engaged, but that's just a guess.]


2) THX Ultra2 Boundary Gain Compensation = ON


[This rolls off lower frequencies -- apparently below about 50 HZ -- to compensate for the placement against a wall or in a corner of a subwoofer that is capable of going really deep (below 20 Hz). If you turn this off you can lower DD-15 volume a bit, but you also need to move the DD-15's lowest EQ filters a bit lower in frequency, broaden them, and set them to a deeper cut (more negative dB). The net effect, I believe is that the DD-15 is actually working HARDER. That is, the best curve with this off arises with deeper cuts and the volume turned back up again! I was worried that turning this on would give me too much roll off below 25 Hz but with careful DD-15 EQ filter settings I can get flat response down to its lower limit.]


3) Speaker Configuration Advanced = ON


[This gives acces to some additional setting options in the D2 -- most notably separate crossovers for mains and sub and also subwoofer polarity and phase adjustment.]


4) Split Crossover Setting -- I have the mains crossover higher than the subwoofer crossover.


[This option in the D2 can be remarkably handy for dealing with issues near the desired cross over point. The DD-15's own internal crossover is disabled in my setup.]


5) Polarity / Phase adjustment


[I spent considerable time playing with Polarity and Phase adjustments. The D2 has a finer step size for phase adjustment than the DD-15 which can be important, although it wasn't in my case. As expected, making these adjustments in the DD-15 (which is actually more convenient for testing purposes) work the same as making them in the D2. Careful observation of the sweep results reveals very interesting variations in peaks and dips both above and below the crossover as you change these settings. To my surprise, I found that Polarity = Normal and Phase = 180 was *NOT* the same as Polarity = Inverted and Phase = 0 -- and vice versa. So it helps to work through all the Phase settings in *BOTH* Polarities to find the best compromise setting. As it turns out in my configuration Polarity = Normal and Phase = 0 gave the best results, but it was easy to see how important these settings can be in dealing with issues -- particularly in the frequencies above the crossover. Again, the DD-15's live video display of the response curve reveals nuances in these settings that mere listening would be hard pressed to spot.


6) Subwoofer Output Calibration Level


[I raised this in the D2 to keep the DD-15 volume down where I wanted it to avoid stressing the DD-15's amp.]


-----------------------------------------------------------------------


Features I Ended Up *NOT* Using in the D2:


1) Bypass LFE Crossover


[Not needed since my subwoofer crossover was high enough to make this moot.]


2) Room Resonance Filter = OFF


[This extra parametrice EQ was not needed since the combination of the features described above and the DD-15's own, eight, internal parametric EQ filters handled the job just fine.]


3) Set Bass Peak Leavel = NA


[This D2 feature is disabled if THX Ultra2 Subwoofer is selected.]


4) Separate Music Speaker Configuration


[Not used since I prefer minimal surround added for music listening -- the Anthem Logic Music setting works great as far as I'm concerned -- and thus the same speaker setup is just fine for me for both Cinema and Music.]


5) Center EQ = OFF


[This is not really a bass configuration setting, but I mention it for completeness. In my setup I prefer this "speach enhancement" setting to be OFF.]


-----------------------------------------------------------------


In the DD-15 I've got its internal crossover disabled, and so far I've only experimented with its default "Jazz/Music" pre-set which uses maximal servo correction to minimize distortion.


Careful setting of DD-15 volume and D2 sub output volume is important when doing the EQ. You need to iterate on this. Setting the volumes wrong will cause you to need more extreme EQ filter settings -- not just level but also Q value (filter width). I need to stress this again: Doing the EQ at different sub volume settings gives surprisingly different results. Use the volume that works best with what the filters can actually achieve.


One advantage of a system like the DD-15 is that it is so darned easy to move the mike around to see what the settings are doing at different listening positions. With the DD-15 it is almost trivial to get an absolutely flat response curve at any one location -- in fact there are numerous different filter settings which will do this. But flat at one location could be grossly NOT flat at another location.


This is where it gets fun!


Using all the setting options, and taking the time to iterate, it is actually possible to get "reasonably flat" at multiple listening locations. And in fact that's where you want to be.


Then get out your trusty radio shack SPL meter and work towards the best compromise calibration level for all the main speakers AS WELL at these multiple listening locations. Of course if your room is acoustically perfect you won't have such issues, but for the rest of us I can tell you that taking the time to do all this produces spectacular results. My surround sound now sounds much smoother and I've got detail in the bass, without boominess -- no matter WHERE I sit.


But just as with video calibration, I went through numerous settings that I thought might work -- settings where I just got tired and said, "That's good enough." And they sounded lousy when I got down to critical listening.


The D2 really is capable of amazing sound. But again, just as with video, if your audio setup is wrong you won't experience it.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------


Just to complete things, I'll add that the DD-15's AUTOMATIC bass EQ function taint nearly good enough to deal with the sort of problems my listening area presents. Primarily this is because it uses only fixed EQ filter frequencies.


You can get much MUCH better results doing it manually -- using all the filter setting options.


Whatever Anthem does to add room EQ to the D2 in the future, I certainly hope it doesn't force us to use an automatic result that may not be optimal.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you sure the component output isn't down rez'ed to 480P?



Well I thought I found a great work around, but alas, not only will the components not down rez while a HD feature is being played or recorded, it will not even allow watching an HD picture or change to an HD channel.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

rudolpht,

Try setting the D2 input for the Tivo S3 to HDMI Repeater = NO for the input connected via HDMI. The input connected via Component needs no such setting. See if that helps.

--Bob


----------



## petetherock

Hi

Greetings from down under, just wondering if anyone knows if the Anthem will run on 220v or has anyone used a transformer (and what size)?

Thanks mates


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Petetherock,

The 120V version does not handle 220V, but Anthem is supposedly shipping a high voltage version that runs on single-phase 216V to 264V at any frequency from 50Hz to 60Hz.


I don't believe we've actually had posts here from anyone using that version yet.

--Bob


----------



## abc999

I am from the Philippines using 220volts also. I use a 500 watt servo type Automatic voltage regulator for my 120 volt Avm50.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> rudolpht,
> 
> Try setting the D2 input for the Tivo S3 to HDMI Repeater = NO for the input connected via HDMI. The input connected via Component needs no such setting. See if that helps.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,



How in the world :




















































OK, I'm watching in HiDef with cable connected direct to the Series 3 TIVO, and even though the Anthem says HDCP connection needed... it's working on Component.


I bow to you Master Bob,

Tim


----------



## jkmw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've finally completed the bass EQ with the Velodyne DD-15 in my setup. Between the DD-15 features and the Anthem D2 features there are many ways to solve problems in the bass arena, and it can literally take weeks working through the possibilities and doing critical listening.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Your work with the D2 Bass EQ and the Velodyne DD15 is, for all intents and purposes, Priceless. With my D2 and Ruby wrapped up, tucked away in a safe room while I complete my theater renovation, I felt like the A/V life in me had been drained away....Until a post like this comes along and I am re-energized to get-er-done.


Thanks!


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you sure the component output isn't down rez'ed to 480P?



To be clear, the Zone 2 Component out is set to the Option that allows it to be a true, independent zone, which means the scaler/deinterlacer is not at work for this connection. Now, having said that, if I pass 1080i on protected material from my Tivo Series 3 to the D2, the Main Zone will display the 1080i of course, and the D2 will gladly pass along the 1080i for Zone 2 over Component to the bedroom. In other words, it will send along exactly what it is fed, no scaling, no deinterlacing for Zone 2. I just re-confirmed this this evening with some procted content from the Universal HD channel on Comcast.


I would test this with my Pioneer DV-79avi as well, but the only output from the Pio that allows for 1080i output is the HDMI, which is used by the D2 only for Zone 1. So, when I output 1080i via HDMI for Zone 1, the Component connections between Pio and D2 are sending 480p, simply because the Pio can only send 480i or 480p over Component, the other resolutions are reserved for HDMI. Of course, my normal mode of operation is just to send 480i over HDMI to the D2 and let it do the scaling/deinterlacing. By the way, an interesting feature of the Pio is that it can send 480i over HDMI at the same time it is sending 480p over Component. Since Zone 2 cannot be scaled/deinterlaced anyway if using Option 3 as I am, it is really nice to at least have a progressive output for the second zone. But again, the limitation in the case of this DVD player is a function of that player, not of any copy protection the D2 is doing.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> 
> How in the world :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, I'm watching in HiDef with cable connected direct to the Series 3 TIVO, and even though the Anthem says HDCP connection needed... it's working on Component.
> 
> 
> I bow to you Master Bob,
> 
> Tim



Bingo gents! That's exactly the setting I've been using since day one with the Series 3, so I guess that's why it's always worked! Dumb luck on my part, but ya gotta love it when stuff just works sometimes.


-Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan

So, I just got the XBox 360 HD-DVD player add-on, short money and I thought I'd start there in terms of dipping my toes into the HD-DVD world. It came with a copy of King Kong. Just thought I'd share my initial impressions of HD-DVD via the XBox anyway.


There's no question that the Kong transfer is beautifully done. The movie looked absolutely stunning. The audio quality was great as well, with all of Kong's snorting sounding perfect with just enough LFE alongside it to make my eyes water.


Now here comes the but....


But...I have to say, I am able to get very close if not the same level of video quality out of a very good DVD, for instance, the SuperBit version of Fifth Element, when processed thru the D2/Gennum. It's early, and these are first impressions for sure, maybe more analysis will change my mind. But so far, though the Kong HD-DVD was flawless, I have seen just as good with various DVD's in my collection. Oh, another one that would equal it is Master and Commander, or Corpse Bride. Hopefully, I'll be able to A/B test soon with something I already own on DVD, perhaps Batman Returns, I hear there's an HD-DVD version of that.


Not sure what any of you would say about your HD-DVD experience thus far, but this experience has given me an even greater respect for what the Gennum is doing to my 480i DVD's to make them seriously rival the look of HD-DVD. I expected for some reason that I'd be more blown away by HD-DVD, and so far, it just isn't the case. So, I guess I'm really glad I didn't spend more than the $199 MSRP that the 360 drive costs, at least at this point.


FWIW, the XBox interface for the drive is really nifty, works like a charm, very intuitive, and very stable performance, no weirdness a la the reports from the early firmware of the Toshiba player, etc. This from a guy who gets great satisfaction normally in seeing Microsoft come up short 


Thought I'd just share this in case anyone is curious.


Cheers,

Brian


----------



## obie_fl

As good as some standard DVDs look I have to say my worse HD DVD looks better then any of my best standard DVDs. Maybe it is due to using the analog video on the Xbox? To be pefectly honest I think my DVD video experience with the D2 may a tad less then what I was getting with my HDLeeza and SDI mod'ed player. What are you using for a display Brian?


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As good as some standard DVDs look I have to say my worse HD DVD looks better then any of my best standard DVDs. Maybe it is due to using the analog video on the Xbox? To be pefectly honest I think my DVD video experience with the D2 may a tad less then what I was getting with my HDLeeza and SDI mod'ed player. What are you using for a display Brian?



I've got a 70 inch Sony Qualia 006. I had Jeff Maier calibrate it to within an inch of its life earlier this year. I've been VERY happy with the results. He calibrated the HDMI inputs of course, as those were most important, and he also calibrated the Component inputs as well. Of course, the 360 is using the Component in, as you mention. In other words, the video from the XBox is not connected through the D2, it is the only source component that is not. Only the digital and analog audio are connected to the D2. I did this for reasons of wanting to use PIP on the Qualia during certain lengthy baseball games, e.g. I play certain XBox games with less moving action using PIP, like Texas Hold Em online (it's a serious addiction!).


Perhaps it's a combination of the XBox being limited to Component for now, not HDMI, and the fact that the HD-DVD video is not being routed thru the D2. I also need to evaluate more content, and really do A/B testing to see the differences.


Good thing winter is coming! Plenty of excuses to hang out on the couch drinking egg nog, enjoying the "Plan".


Thanks for the input, definitely interesting to hear other people's experiences.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Brian,

The XBOX add on is new, and may very well have come with some factory installed problems as was the case with the early Toshiba player and the first Blue Ray players.


Keep an eye on the HD-DVD player forum here for reports from folks who really know how to test this stuff.


The D2 is good, but PROPER HD should look better than D2 scaled DVD. [EXCEPTION: Some broadcast HD movies are actually just scaled up from DVD masters since they don't actually have an HD master.]


The sort of thing I'm talking about is a player mistakenly lowering the HD content to 540p (discarding resolution) on the way to outputing your selected high def resolution. This is what the early Toshiba did, for example, if you told it to output 720p.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bingo gents! That's exactly the setting I've been using since day one with the Series 3, so I guess that's why it's always worked! Dumb luck on my part, but ya gotta love it when stuff just works sometimes.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Brian,


My bad in using the defaults. I was having trouble going direct but it sounds like you can do it routed through the D2, so that's my next try.


Tim


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Brian,
> 
> 
> My bad in using the defaults. I was having trouble going direct but it sounds like you can do it routed through the D2, so that's my next try.
> 
> 
> Tim



Brian,


Ok, still issues, are you routing the HD Tivo into the D2 via Component vs HDMI?


Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim,

I haven't actually tried this, but this is how it should work.


Run HDMI from the Tivo S3 to, say, HDMI1 input on the D2.


Run Component from the Tivo S3 to, say, COMPONENT1 input on the D2.


Choose a D2 SSP (Source Signal Path) for viewing Tivo, say "TV"


Go into the D2 Setup / Source Selection screen and go to TV.


Set HDMI1 as the Scaler input for that SSP


Set HDMI Repeater = NO


*ALSO* set COMPONENT1 as the Component input for that SSP.


Finally set the Zone2 output to use a separately selectable input from the Main input.


Back out of the Setup screens.


Your main screen should be connected to the D2 HDMI output and the D2's Video Output settings should be set as best for viewing on your main screen.


Your secondary screen should be connected to the D2 Zone2 Component output.


To view Tivo on the main screen, select the D2 Main Path (the buttons near the top of the remote) and then select the TV SSP (the buttons near the bottom of the remote).


HDMI from the Tivo will be scaled and sent out the D2's HDMI output to your main screen.


To view Tivo on the secondary screen, select the Zone2 Path on the D2 and then, once again, select the TV SSP.


Since there is no HDMI on the Zone2 output, and since HDMI repeater has been set to "NO", the D2 should generate a good HDCP handshake to the Tivo whether or not your main screen happens to be turned on. The Tivo, now having a good HDMI handshake, will send out data on both HDMI and Component, and the D2 will pass through the Component (unprocessed) to the Zone2 Component output and thus to your secondary screen.


At least I *THINK* this is how it should work.


The alternative would be to use 2 different D2 SSPs and have the HDMI setup on one of them and the non-scaled Component setup on the other for use by Zone2.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> I haven't actually tried this, but this is how it should work.
> 
> 
> Run HDMI from the Tivo S3 to, say, HDMI1 input on the D2.
> 
> 
> Run Component from the Tivo S3 to, say, COMPONENT1 input on the D2.
> 
> 
> Choose a D2 SSP (Source Signal Path) for viewing Tivo, say "TV"
> 
> 
> Go into the D2 Setup / Source Selection screen and go to TV.
> 
> 
> Set HDMI1 as the Scaler input for that SSP
> 
> 
> Set HDMI Repeater = NO
> 
> 
> *ALSO* set COMPONENT1 as the Component input for that SSP.
> 
> 
> Finally set the Zone2 output to use a separately selectable input from the Main input.
> 
> 
> Back out of the Setup screens.
> 
> 
> Your main screen should be connected to the D2 HDMI output and the D2's Video Output settings should be set as best for viewing on your main screen.
> 
> 
> Your secondary screen should be connected to the D2 Zone2 Component output.
> 
> 
> To view Tivo on the main screen, select the D2 Main Path (the buttons near the top of the remote) and then select the TV SSP (the buttons near the bottom of the remote).
> 
> 
> HDMI from the Tivo will be scaled and sent out the D2's HDMI output to your main screen.
> 
> 
> To view Tivo on the secondary screen, select the Zone2 Path on the D2 and then, once again, select the TV SSP.
> 
> 
> Since there is no HDMI on the Zone2 output, and since HDMI repeater has been set to "NO", the D2 should generate a good HDCP handshake to the Tivo whether or not your main screen happens to be turned on. The Tivo, now having a good HDMI handshake, will send out data on both HDMI and Component, and the D2 will pass through the Component (unprocessed) to the Zone2 Component output and thus to your secondary screen.
> 
> 
> At least I *THINK* this is how it should work.
> 
> 
> The alternative would be to use 2 different D2 SSPs and have the HDMI setup on one of them and the non-scaled Component setup on the other for use by Zone2.
> 
> --Bob



This recipe is exactly correct and has been working flawlessly for me since the day I got the Series 3. The way all my sources are set up in fact. I am a cable salesman's best friend, as I literally have to run every video output, and both analog and digital audio from every source to the D2, in order to have truly independent switching of sources in Zones 2 and 3 and Record. The cabling of this was a ton of fun for sure, but I am reaping the rewards each day.


Let me know how you make out Tim.


-Brian


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> I haven't actually tried this, but this is how it should work.
> 
> 
> Run HDMI from the Tivo S3 to, say, HDMI1 input on the D2.
> 
> 
> Run Component from the Tivo S3 to, say, COMPONENT1 input on the D2.
> 
> 
> Choose a D2 SSP (Source Signal Path) for viewing Tivo, say "TV"
> 
> 
> Go into the D2 Setup / Source Selection screen and go to TV.
> 
> 
> Set HDMI1 as the Scaler input for that SSP
> 
> 
> Set HDMI Repeater = NO
> 
> 
> *ALSO* set COMPONENT1 as the Component input for that SSP.
> 
> 
> Finally set the Zone2 output to use a separately selectable input from the Main input.
> 
> 
> Back out of the Setup screens.
> 
> 
> Your main screen should be connected to the D2 HDMI output and the D2's Video Output settings should be set as best for viewing on your main screen.
> 
> 
> Your secondary screen should be connected to the D2 Zone2 Component output.
> 
> 
> To view Tivo on the main screen, select the D2 Main Path (the buttons near the top of the remote) and then select the TV SSP (the buttons near the bottom of the remote).
> 
> 
> HDMI from the Tivo will be scaled and sent out the D2's HDMI output to your main screen.
> 
> 
> To view Tivo on the secondary screen, select the Zone2 Path on the D2 and then, once again, select the TV SSP.
> 
> 
> Since there is no HDMI on the Zone2 output, and since HDMI repeater has been set to "NO", the D2 should generate a good HDCP handshake to the Tivo whether or not your main screen happens to be turned on. The Tivo, now having a good HDMI handshake, will send out data on both HDMI and Component, and the D2 will pass through the Component (unprocessed) to the Zone2 Component output and thus to your secondary screen.
> 
> 
> At least I *THINK* this is how it should work.
> 
> 
> The alternative would be to use 2 different D2 SSPs and have the HDMI setup on one of them and the non-scaled Component setup on the other for use by Zone2.
> 
> --Bob




OK, getting closer, my mistake is thinking I was just mirroring the HDMI via component.


If I have to set up a second zone (a feature I have never used on a bunch of pre-amps, do I get the same speakers to work as the HDMI out? This would be a show stopper if I need another set of speakers for the LCD (Zone 2), and I definitely don't want to go from a 7.1 system to a 5.1 +2 (for Zone 2). in other words, can I set the Zone 2 speakers = Zone 1 speakers?


Here's what I do have working, always hot component outs on the TIVO with the HDMI Repeater = NO, but it is the only source I get on my LCD, which is probably OK, unless as I typically only watch news or the occasional sitcom, and I watch DVDs, HD DVDs, Blu-Ray, D-VHS, on Projector anyways.


It's humbling to go back to school










Thanks Brian too.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim,

Try this:


Cable and configure as described above.


But now set Zone2 output to be UNPROCESSED pass through of Main input.


Now control everything via the Main path (just as if you only had one screen).


I believe that will do what you want -- e.g. viewing on either the main or secondary screen, but audio always processed out to the main speakers setup.


EDITED TO ADD: You should be able to extend this to any source that is Component input into the scaler for Main, or that (like the Tivo S3) is willing to output both on HDMI and Component at the same time.

--Bob


----------



## gsysak

Hi,


I am interested in demoing a D2. I live in New Jersey near NYC. Can anyone recommend a good dealer in the NYC metro area who also preferably carries Sony product? I am looking to demo the D2 with a Sony 46V2500 LCD panel. I tried the anthemav website, and they only list three dealers near me. Any advice would be appreciated.


Thanks for the help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

gsysak,

There were complaints in the D2 related threads earlier this year that the Anthem dealer setup around NYC was pretty weak (not many, and not very good). That may have changed by now and I suppose others will post if they know of any good ones.


But you might need to go further afield.


For example, there's a full service dealer in Cherry Hill, NJ, that seems pretty reasonable. You can look them up on the Anthem site.


And before you say it, yes it is pretty lame that Anthem has any trouble at all getting top quality dealer support in and near NYC.

--Bob


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gsysak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I am interested in demoing a D2. I live in New Jersey near NYC. Can anyone recommend a good dealer in the NYC metro area who also preferably carries Sony product? I am looking to demo the D2 with a Sony 46V2500 LCD panel. I tried the anthemav website, and they only list three dealers near me. Any advice would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help.



6th Avenue Electronics has a number of stores in the NJ area and one in Long Island, NY. I was just in the Paramus, NJ store a couple of weeks ago, and they have the D2 on display (connected to Paradigm Signature speakers and a Sony Ruby!). 6th Avenue is an Anthem dealer.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For those looking to double check the video calibration of your cable or satellite set top box, and particularly for those with an HD DVR of one sort or another:


1) HDNET broadcasts 15 minutes of test patterns periodically -- usually very early on Tuesday mornings.


2) INHD broadcasts test patterns about every couple weeks. Look for "Tune Up" or "INHD Tune Up".


3) There is also a program called "Bars and Tones" which is supposed to broadcast SMTPE test charts. So far I've only found this on SDTV.


---------------------------------------------------------------


If anyone knows of any other broadcast calibration charts, I'd appreciate hearing about them.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> Try this:
> 
> 
> Cable and configure as described above.
> 
> 
> But now set Zone2 output to be UNPROCESSED pass through of Main input.
> 
> 
> Now control everything via the Main path (just as if you only had one screen).
> 
> 
> I believe that will do what you want -- e.g. viewing on either the main or secondary screen, but audio always processed out to the main speakers setup.
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: You should be able to extend this to any source that is Component input into the scaler for Main, or that (like the Tivo S3) is willing to output both on HDMI and Component at the same time.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks again. I'll give it a go. This is probably what Brian said for his setup originally & I was too thick to understand.


If there is a quick button press to change the SSP video source input from HDMI 3 to Component 3, I can get away without setting up a redundant device. (I'm out of devices)?


Tim


If the Series 3 had a firewire output it would be just about the perfect HD device.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim,

You don't have to change from HDMI3 to Component3 on the fly.


When you set Zone2 to be the unprocessed version of the Main input it will automatically pass through Component3 to the Zone2 Component output whenever you select that SSP.


Meanwhile HDMI3 will be passed to the scaler and the result will go out the Main output.


Again, this is why you set up the SSP with HDMI3 as the Scaler input AND ALSO specify Component3 as the Component input.

--Bob


----------



## BillW

Well the new 1.17 update is being released in the next two to three days, with custom resolutions. I was complaining about the new Pioneer and NEC 1365x768 resolution not being available and was told it's no longer an issue with this new upgrade.


----------



## budeone

Is there a fix with 1.17 for your set turning green when going from hd to non-hd?


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What plate cooler did you add?
> 
> 
> dc




IMG http://www.smarthome.com/images/8734ci2side.jpg 


I love it

http://www.smarthome.com/8734c.html


----------



## Don O’Brien

After reading through the manual I have a question about the bass management in the D2.


7channel setup

Front speakers set to large

Center spkr set to small- 80 hz crossover

Rear and Surround speakers set to small- 80hz crossover

Sub-Yes and set to "1 sub".. not super

Bypass LFE Crossover set to yes


Please confirm what the manual seems to indicate:

Front speakers receive full bandwidth-no redirected bass, no LFE bass

Center, Surrounds, Rear speakers receive above the 80hz high pass

Subwoofer receives redirected bass from Center, Surrounds, Rears below the 80HZ low pass and all fo the full bandwidth LFE bass.


With 2 channel sound what cues does anthem's proprietary audio modes (Anthem Music and Anthem Cinema) use to create the additional 2 channels in a 7 channel configuration?


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> IMG http://www.smarthome.com/images/8734ci2side.jpg
> 
> 
> I love it
> 
> http://www.smarthome.com/8734c.html



So your D2 sits on top of the cooler, correct?


dc


----------



## budeone

Its the avm-50 but yes it sits right on top.. You cant hear anyting and it works great


----------



## drmabuse

Has anyone heard when the next firmware upgrade for the D2 is happening? Do we think it will read/display properly the 2 new HD tracks (DD True HD/DTS-HD)?

/\\/\\


----------



## FilmMixer

Rumor is firmware imminently...


D2 won't ever display the True HD/DTS HD/DTS MA decodes.. it doesn't decode them, just accepts them as LPCM.


----------



## obie_fl

If you mean decode the new HD Codecs (DD True HD/DTS-HD) then no as that will take a hardware upgrade to HDMI 1.3. The real question is why do you feel you would want to decode them in the D2 when all the players are dong the decoding and transmitting it just fine to the D2 today?


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you mean decode the new HD Codecs (DD True HD/DTS-HD) then no as that will take a hardware upgrade to HDMI 1.3. The real question is why do you feel you would want to decode them in the D2 when all the players are dong the decoding and transmitting it just fine to the D2 today?




It is difficult to tell what signal is coming through - I see the high bit rates so I guess I just have to assume...


----------



## obie_fl

Assuming you are talking about the Toshba you can hit the players display button and it will tell you what it is using.


----------



## yatchaks

New software (V 1.10) is available for download for the AVM50 http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html 


And for the D2 http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


This update appears to fix many issues as well as add new features to the Scaler.


I'm anxious to install the update tonight.


Remember guys, make sure all HDMI devices are off, including the display.



Mark


----------



## budeone

thanks for the information !!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 has only one HDMI output.
> 
> The Zone2 Component output can be set to 1 of 3 uses:
> 
> 
> 1) Duplicate the Main Component output (i.e., processed output of the Main path's selected video input).
> 
> 
> 2) Show an UNprocessed version of the Main path's selected video input -- this is just a pass through of the input to the output.
> 
> 
> 3) Show an UNprocessed version of a different video input selected for the Zone2 path while the Main output(s) continue to show the Main path's selected video input (processed).



OK guys (Bob & Brian), I'm still dead in the water.


I have tried all three methods and I'm still not getting video over component unless I bypass the Anthem completely.


I have tried the mirroring using component out 1 & 2

Component 2 in all it's states (Processed, Unprocessed, Zone 2).


Now I get Cable (moto box) on component 2 input out on either Component out 1 &2 and it works fine.


My monitor does 1920x1080/60, the same as my projection so I know it's not the monitor side (it can take processed or unprocessed from the cable input (I like to leave it unprocessed).


At wits end (this should be simple).


----------



## goenkar

CHANGE LIST


v1.10:


For changes to operating instructions, see pdf file. Note that as of this version, video source adjustments cannot be made if the selected source has no video input.


1. Added gamma correction (through Live Video Settings Editor).


2. Added custom output resolution and timing (through Live Video Settings Editor).


3. Added frame lock.


4. Added multiple input memory.


5. Reduced number of color space conversions. Note that because of this, if input is RGB and output is RGB, Brightness / Contrast / Color / Tint adjustments can no longer be made - simply set your source to YCbCr output instead of RGB if adjustment is necessary.


6. Added colon (







to character set for renaming sources.


7. Increased HDMI compatibility yet again. Known problems are very few at this time. If you are experiencing problems, ensure that all connected equipment has latest drivers installed before contacting tech support (you might need to contact your cable/sat company).


If you need to contact Anthem tech support regarding connectivity from a computer's video output, please provide details including operating system, build of operating system, microprocessor, video card model, software, version of software, and settings. If your computer provides EDID status, that would greatly help as well.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> New software (V 1.10) is available for download for the AVM50 http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html
> 
> 
> And for the D2 http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html
> 
> 
> This update appears to fix many issues as well as add new features to the Scaler.
> 
> 
> I'm anxious to install the update tonight.
> 
> 
> Remember guys, make sure all HDMI devices are off, including the display.
> 
> 
> 
> Mark




Mark,


Great, & thanks for including the links. Very helpful (easy).


My upgrade took first try.


----------



## Expletive

In terms of features, the top of my list is output multiples of 24hz for film sources and 30 for video. Manually changing the output resolution for HD-DVD is a little kludgy.


If you have HD-DVD and send 1080i from a Toshiba A1 to the D2, will it deinterlace it properly to 1080p24sf? Would outputting 720p/78 then remove judder? Just making sure i understand it all correctly...


----------



## budeone

Same thing, I just cant get it to update..


I get errors

gf9350 osd


error

0x33394647


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Same thing, I just cant get it to update..
> 
> 
> I get errors
> 
> gf9350 osd
> 
> 
> error
> 
> 0x33394647



Just a reminder... turn off all devices that it is connected to or connects to (TV, DVD, Sat...) while updating...


----------



## DonnieW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a reminder... turn off all devices that it is connected to or connects to (TV, DVD, Sat...) while updating...



And stay away from USB Serial converters.


----------



## budeone

After hours, I just reinstalled the 1.07 beta back in.


----------



## yatchaks

I do think you have a problem with the serial cable your using. I had the same errors (a few months back) before replacing it with a DB9 cable I bought from radioshack http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search They do carry the cable in store as well.



I no longer have issues, always takes first try.

*EDIT:* I'm not at home now to make sure it is M/F. I hate to have someone buy what I link and a M/M or F/F cable is needed instead. Can someone verify?


----------



## budeone

I need a USB to Serial cable.. I bought a trendnet from amazon.


Why would it work with the 1.07 and not the 1.10?


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I need a USB to Serial cable.. I bought a trendnet from amazon.
> 
> 
> Why would it work with the 1.07 and not the 1.10?




USB/Serial adapters can be flakey. If I recall, you were having a problem with a past software update? I could be wrong. If so, are you using the same adapter?


Is the cable Windows certified? Anthem says this is a requirement. You may want to buy another brand but return it if gives you the same problem.


Another thing to try...make sure your cable has the latest drivers installed.


For what it's worth, I no longer have the green screen issues with v1.10.


Mark


----------



## budeone

There are two on that page

http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...igkw=db9%20usb 


They look the same just $10.00 diff..


Yes, I was having a problem before then 1.07 goes in fine after just 2 tries.


I will get a new cable today...


Did you unscrew the little headers off the Anthem so the cable will go in?


Or did you take them off the cable?


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are two on that page
> 
> http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...igkw=db9%20usb
> 
> 
> They look the same just $10.00 diff..
> 
> 
> Yes, I was having a problem before then 1.07 goes in fine after just 2 tries.
> 
> 
> I will get a new cable today...
> 
> 
> Did you unscrew the little headers off the Anthem so the cable will go in?
> 
> 
> Or did you take them off the cable?



Appears to be two diff manufactures. Either one should work.


I don't recall unscrewing anything from the RS232 port.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In terms of features, the top of my list is output multiples of 24hz for film sources and 30 for video. Manually changing the output resolution for HD-DVD is a little kludgy.
> 
> 
> If you have HD-DVD and send 1080i from a Toshiba A1 to the D2, will it deinterlace it properly to 1080p24? Would outputting 720p/72 then remove judder? Just making sure i understand it all correctly...



Yes, with 1.10, you can do this now. There is a new "frame lock" feature that will be REALLY useful for Sony Pearl/Ruby users and those with projectors that can accept 1080p24/48/72. Smoother, w/o judder.










With Live Video Settings Editor, you can choose any refresh rates you want now, or any custom resolution that your display can support.










A really useful and rare feature. The D2 scaler is now up there features wise with the best high-end scalers out there.


-Custom resolutions

-Multiple per-input memory banks (DVD1,2,3,4 TV1,2,3,4 Sat1,2)

-Custom gamma curves

-Frame lock

-New test patterns


This on top of true multi-ch LPCM over HDMI. Everything we need for Blu-ray and HD-DVD.


----------



## chas

For Mac users:


I upgraded to firmware 1.10 without a hitch using a MacBook, Boot Camp with Windows XP Home, and a Keyspan USB - serial adapter. I made sure that I had the latest versions of OS X and Boot Camp and installed the latest Keyspan driver from their Web site.


Although I received a message that the Keyspan was not Windows-certified, I went ahead and had no problems. I have used the same adapter twice previously with a Windows laptop without any problems.


C.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm travelling so it's going to be a while before I can test V1.10, but one thing already alarms me.


The Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD player only sends RGB via HDMI. There is no option for YCbCr.


My Fujitsu plasma is a DVI device so it only accepts RGB via the HDMI to DVI cable.


If I understand the change list correctly, this means I can no longer do Brightness and Contrast adjustments on the D2 input menu for the 59avi.


The V1.06 upgrade lost me the ability to do Color and Tint adjustments on that input, but that was not a problem for me.


Losing the ability to do Brightness and Contrast as well is a *BIG* problem. I need those settings to get that delicate balance of settings to eliminate the nasty noise problem in the low grays.


--------------------------------------------------


Other than that the described changes appear positive. I'll want to check to make sure the extra memory banks for DVD and such do not get in the way if they aren't being used -- i.e., if you accidentally press the DVD SSP button on the remote more than once.


--------------------------------------------------


rudolpht,

For your Tivo S3 problem: Be sure Repeater = No is set in the Setup menu for that SSP. If it still doesn't work, then temporarily disconnect just the HDMI cable from the Tivo S3 end. Now see if you can get Component to your second screen when Zone2 Component is set to be the Unprocessed version of Main. Again you will need both the HDMI and Component plug to be entered in the SSP Setup. If you can get Component that way (with the HDMI cable temporarily disconnected) then your setup is likely correct and the only thing I can think of is that your S3 is different from Brian's.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

Will this cable work?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search


----------



## benowen

I succussfully upgraded my D2 to 1.10 and its working fine at the moment.

Now can any one help me dial in the custom resolution for my Panasonic TH-50PHD8UK with the live video settings?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> For what it's worth, I no longer have the green screen issues with v1.10.
> 
> 
> Mark



Same here.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> rudolpht,
> 
> For your Tivo S3 problem: Be sure Repeater = No is set in the Setup menu for that SSP. If it still doesn't work, then temporarily disconnect just the HDMI cable from the Tivo S3 end. Now see if you can get Component to your second screen when Zone2 Component is set to be the Unprocessed version of Main. Again you will need both the HDMI and Component plug to be entered in the SSP Setup. If you can get Component that way (with the HDMI cable temporarily disconnected) then your setup is likely correct and the only thing I can think of is that your S3 is different from Brian's.
> 
> --Bob



I do have a 750GB version but I doubt that has anything to do with the compatibility. I should have though of trying w/o the HDMI (I'll get no sound) but should see if pic works.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

rudolpht,

I'm hampered by the fact that I don't have an S3 to try this stuff out on, but I had another thought (presuming you are getting Component working with the HDMI cable disconnected as in my previous post):


See if you can set the S3 to "pass through" the incoming channel resolution rather than scaling all channels to a single output resolution. It's possible that the S3 disables scaling on the Component output when its HDMI output is active, but will nevertheless "pass through" unscaled video to Component even if HDMI is active.


Such a pass through setting is what you want anyway -- even for the HDMI path to your main screen -- since you want the D2 to do any and all scaling. Now the D2 won't be scaling the Zone2 Component output the way we are setting it up, but that's fine as well since now the scaler in your second screen will take it from there.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball

Levesque,

I now have virtually all the same major components that you do in your main theater! Since you were the main influencer in my purchase decisions I want to thank you for making my enjoyment of this hobby the most satisfying experience to date. I have the D2, P5/P2,Tosh Xa1, oppo and the Ruby on to a 110" stewart screen. I am still running ver 1.00 on the D2 and I hope to upgrade to 1.10 this weekend. Since I am still running an uncalibrated system (350 hours) and I am totaly in awe of the experience can you tell me what settings you recommend for your equipment for frame lock and or any customized settings for the resolution.

And thank you for starting this thread and bringing a great group of people to help make this pastime even better for the rest of us!


Peter


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque,
> 
> I now have virtually all the same major components that you do in your main theater! Since you were the main influencer in my purchase decisions I want to thank you for making my enjoyment of this hobby the most satisfying experience to date. I have the D2, P5/P2,Tosh Xa1, oppo and the Ruby on to a 110" stewart screen.



With practically all the same equipment, you're officially my "mini-me".







Maybe you said it somewhere else, but I'm not able to find what kind of speakers you're using... I'm just curious...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am still running ver 1.00 on the D2 and I hope to upgrade to 1.10 this weekend.



Good idea. Updating the firmware is really painless with the good cable, and takes around 10 minutes to do. Just be sure to save your settings before updating, then resetting to default settings after the firmware update, and finally reloading your settings. 1.10 is a big step up over 1.00. Major differences.


With 1.10, the scaler of the D2 is alot more powerful. You should try 1080p48 to the Ruby DVI connections (HDMI doesn't support it...) to see if you prefer it with less judder compared to 1080p60. If (like me) you're waiting for the Pio Elite Blu-ray player (able to do 1080p24), then 1080p48 to the Ruby will be really useful!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since I am still running an uncalibrated system (350 hours) and I am totaly in awe of the experience can you tell me what settings you recommend for your equipment for frame lock and or any customized settings for the resolution.



First thing to do would be to call a good ISF calibrator with experience calibrating the Ruby, and to schedule a full calibration for your system. If you can, with both a HD-DVD and a Blu-ray player. So will be all set for a while. He will help you find the configurations "sweet spots" with your equipment for the best results.


Have fun!


----------



## nine ball

M&K THX Ultra

Levesque


M&K thx ultra II


6 150

2 tri polar (set up bipolar)

3 350 sub

1 125 sub (helps to fill in the depth of field for LFE)




Peter


----------



## budeone

Does anybody have a copy of the 1.06 they can send to

[email protected] 


Thanks


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anybody have a copy of the 1.06 they can send to
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> Thanks




Check your e-mail. Sent as a .Zip file.


Also, the link you supplied for the D9 adapter "should" work. Depending on device connected, results will be different with different adapters. It's trial and error.


----------



## budeone

Thank you very much...


Nick said something that it may not be updating because of the beta in there now.


It did not come I did check the spam folder.


Can you please try renaming it .ccc


Thanks again!!!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> rudolpht,
> 
> I'm hampered by the fact that I don't have an S3 to try this stuff out on, but I had another thought (presuming you are getting Component working with the HDMI cable disconnected as in my previous post):
> 
> 
> See if you can set the S3 to "pass through" the incoming channel resolution rather than scaling all channels to a single output resolution. It's possible that the S3 disables scaling on the Component output when its HDMI output is active, but will nevertheless "pass through" unscaled video to Component even if HDMI is active.
> 
> 
> Such a pass through setting is what you want anyway -- even for the HDMI path to your main screen -- since you want the D2 to do any and all scaling. Now the D2 won't be scaling the Zone2 Component output the way we are setting it up, but that's fine as well since now the scaler in your second screen will take it from there.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Yes, I have always run the S3 at native rate for the purposes you describe, letting the Anthem do the deinterlacing and/or scaling. This way the 720p or 1080i Locals are handled to their max res. Even though I'm unprocessed to my second monitor, it to is native rate so when the S3 switches to menus (720p) it will flicker and settle to the rative rate. I have black bars constantly (also fine) to blank the 120 extra pixel lines (1920x1200 -> 1920x1080). Regular SD broadcast shows are small on the screen, but that's fine two, as it looks bad scaled (being an HD snob







).


Tim


----------



## yatchaks

Sent again. One .Zip and a second as a folder.


PM me if you still have a problem.


----------



## Spizz

When will the release there Room EQ? I take it no chance they can add Audyssey to the D2 without a new seperate chip?


----------



## budeone

I dont understand why its not going through..


I hate to be a pain.. can you please try

[email protected] 


I keep getting the emails that a post has been made just nothing from you.


Thanks again... really!


----------



## nine ball

Levesque,

Have you heard of a 'ringing' in the bulb of the ruby. It starts about five mins after a cold start then dissappears after about 20 mins with no audible sound whatsoever. during the 20 mins it is extremely audible with a sound like a high frequency whistle. I know its not part of this thread but I believe you may have heard of it?


Peter


----------



## budeone

Thanks yatchaks I have it..































1.07 and 1.06 go in with out any problem.. 1st time on both .. I bought a new cable today. That may be the reason they go in the first time now.


I am trying 1.10 right now for the 14th time.


If this does not work I have no idea why it takes 1.06 and 1.07 just not 1.10.



Thanks again!


----------



## rudolpht

Bob/Brian,


Getting closer.


The non-HDMI use didn't change things, although after setting Component preferred it also didn't work to the main projector. I rewired again and I can get component out of the Tivo to Zone 2 to Monitor. Processed or Unprocessed Component 2 out will not get the Component output of the S3 to "flow."


OK, so it works (that's good). I'll need to do some macros to shift the SSP 2 zone outputs, so that as I switch around inputs, the sound matches the Main zone.



Brian,


I assume since you are using Zones you are not mirroring out (processed or unprocessed) the S3 component, only using zones and manually syncing sources? I assume you are routing the fiber (or stero analog) for audio then too?


So progress gents,

Thanks,

Tim


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> If this does not work I have no idea why it takes 1.06 and 1.07 just not 1.10.



I'm not being a wise guy or condascending, but you are using the D2 download for a D2 or the AVM50 for the AVM50, correct?


The baselines are different now, so what used to work in the past interchangeably isn't necessarily so now.


Tim


----------



## budeone

 http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html 


That is the link I am going to


AVM 50 - AUDIO/VIDEO PROCESSOR

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/....10install.zip 


That is the link I am using.


It still does not work


I think There is something wrong with my machine


----------



## yatchaks

The links you provide are correct.

It may not make a diff, but for kicks, burn the file to a CD and download off the CD.


----------



## budeone

That is the way I have been doing it. 1.06 1.07d and 1.10 are all on cd.


----------



## randman

According to section 3.5 of the updated manual, version 1.10 of the firmware provides support for additional source components (i.e. DVD2, DVD3, DVD4, TV2, TV3, TV4, SAT2).

The manual doesn't explain how to take advantage of these, given that the hardware itself hasn't changed. Is this useful primarily if you have source components that are analog only and source components that are digital only, so between them you can actually have more than 9 source components?


Anyway, has anyone tried the Anthem's support for additional source components? I'm wonderning if the following is possible:



1. Connect source A's S-Video output to SAT1. Connect source B via HDMI and use SAT2 for source B.


2. Connect source X's S-Video output and analog L/R output to TV1. Connect source Y's component output to the D2's component input #1 and source Y's optical output to the D2's optical #1 input. Assign this to TV2.


I assume that the only way to really have more than 7 sources (ignoring the 2-channel balanced in and the 6-channel in) is to have 7 analog sources and the other sources would use component, optical or coaxial inputs, component inputs, and HDMI inputs?


For universal DVD players that have 6 channel analog output for SACD/DVD-A, do folks use the DVD input for DVD movies and the 6-channel input when listening to SACD/DVD-A? Just wondering what other permutations/uses are possible with the various input assignments the D2 allows.


Thanks.


----------



## goenkar

Just thought fellow Anthemers would like to know, PS3 worked flawlessly with my AVM-50. I have described my setup here 


I was able to feed 1080p to the AVM-50 with no issues. Unfortunately my son has control of it now and is hooked to his gaming setup so I will need to get myself another one for the family room where I have the anthem.


I wish I could afford another of these puppies for my theater room in the basement. May have to settle for an AVM-40 if they ever release one. A lot of people are having issues with HDMI and PS3 and am afraid of trusting any other manuf. to fix the issues like Anthem does.


BTW, I used v1.06 to test. I have upgraded to v1.10 now but have not retested with the PS3.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is the way I have been doing it. 1.06 1.07d and 1.10 are all on cd.



Perhaps v1.10 is a bad burn? Try burning another if you didn't already do so.


----------



## LEVESQUE

Randman.


The multiple memory banks can be really useful. For example, with my satellite HD-decoder, I'm using Sat1 for 1080i and sat2 for 480i signals over the same HDMI input. I can then use different settings in the D2 for the 2 different resolutions, since they don't need the same settings.


Same thing with my HD players. Different settings for 1080i/p and 480i/p, but on the same input.


But you can do alot of other things with different memory banks. If you have a DVD player able to also play SACDs, then you can use, for example, DVD1 for regular DVDs and HDMI, and programming DVD2 for the analog multi-ch connection from the same player for SACDs.


Those are just some examples. We can do alot more then that...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Spizz,

Rumor is that the D2 will get room EQ early next year. The D2 already has the spare DSP processing power to handle this. The AVM-50 does not, and will not get room EQ.


So far there are no other details, but the word is that Anthem has been working on this for some time and thinks they've got a winner on their hands.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Has anyone yet tried V1.10 with an RGB source (e.g., Pioneer 59avi DVD via HDMI) and an RGB display? Can you verify that Brightness and Contrast on the D2 input settings will no longer work for such a source and display?

--Bob


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Perhaps v1.10 is a bad burn? Try burning another if you didn't already do so.



I did that and I also put on hard drive.. 1.10 just does not work










When I put on 1.06 last night it was real fast.. works great.. 1.07 takes a bit longer but works..


----------



## DreamCatcher

The additional inputs options (ie DVD1, DVD2, DVD3, DVD4, etc..) is just what I was looking for.

With 4 HDMI inputs (HD-DVD, 3930, OPPO 970 & HD-VCR) assigned to 4 different inputs, say DVD, VCR, AUX & TAPE, on the D2, I was scrambling to figure out what inputs on the D2 I was going to use for our,

SAT receiver (Directv)

MOXI box (cable)

Turntable

Transporter (SlimDevices music server of sorts)

SMS-1

Blu-Ray computer and/or PS3

etc.....


Now NO worries, thanks to the additional input options.

Way to go Anthem










dc


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now NO worries, thanks to the additional input options.
> 
> Way to go Anthem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dc



It definitely helps as I already had to add in an external HDMI switcher (now unused while I do gymnastics with the S3 (Brian appreciate the additional info on your setup asked above). Spent a couple hours last night programming remotes to deal with Zone 2 (and making sure to shut it off so the unit doesn't stay on constantly even with Main zone and amp triggered off), but can't complain as at least I have flexibility.


Now I just need to figure out how to use the extra devices and how to switch the combinations remotely.


----------



## bluemark81

Just got the AVM50 and it has me baffled. Can someone explain to me how the "Mode Presets" work within the Source Setup/Presets screen?


If I go to a DVD encoded in 5.1, I notice my center channel is not working. On the AVM, it is saying AL-Music. I assume that this stands for AnthemLogic Music, but why is the AVM not sensing the disk as 5.1? I have tried playing around with the mode presets, but I have no idea what I am changing when I change things there. Can anyone give me a bit of a lesson on how these presets work or am I in the wrong menu to do this? The manual is not very detailed in explaning this. Thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81

The mode presets in the Setup / Source screen are simply the defaults the AVM-50 uses each time the AVM-50 detects a new style of incoming audio format from some particular source device when you are listening to that source.


You can manual change to a different form of surround sound processing while listening by pressing the Mode button on the remote and then using the up and down arrows to cycle through the available options. The options available will vary depending on:


1) The type of incoming audio signal the AVM-50 currently detects.


2) Whether or not you have rear speakers configured in addition to surround speakers.


3) Whether or not you have turned on THX post processing -- by using the THX button on the remote and then the up or down arrows to toggle the setting, or by selecting THX on "by default" in the appropriate Setup / Source line.


If you would prefer that the AVM-50 *NOT* have a default surround proccessing mode for any given source device or for any specific type of incoming audio format from a source, simply select "Last Used" in the appropriate Setup / Source lines and it will use whatever you last used for that type of incoming audio.


Here's an example:


I prefer THX post processing turned on while watching movies and off while watching TV. This is true whether or not the movie or TV content is 2 channel or 5.1 I also don't like THX added to DTS content. These, by the way, are all personal preferences and your preferences may be different.


So for my DVD player input in my D2 I have 2 channel defaulted (in Setup / Source for DVD) to PLII-x with THX, and 5.1 Dolby defaulted to DD with THX, and 5.1 DTS defaulted to DTS without THX.


Meanwhile for my cable TV input in my D2 I have 2 channel defaulted to Anthem Logic Cinema (no THX), 5.1 Dolby defaulted to DD (no THX), and 5.1 DTS -- which is unlikely to ever appear on a TV program, but it doesn't hurt to set it up -- defaulted to DTS (no THX).


Now if I happen to be watching a DVD recording of a TV series, the default will have THX on -- which I *DON'T* want -- but I can easily turn it off for that viewing using the THX button and then the up or down arrrow on the remote. The default I have set up stays remembered, and works for me for most DVDs I watch, since most of them happen to be movies.


And if I happen to be watching a TV broadcast of a movie, THX will be off by default -- but again I can easily turn it on for that viewing.


--------------------------------------------------------


The various processing modes you have available are described in the user manual. Anthem Logic Music (AL-Music), for example, is a non-aggressive surround sound mode for listening to music developed by Anthem. It is designed to give a little bit of AVM-50 generated surround (as compared to "Stereo" which is straight 2 channel without any generated surround, or "PLII-X" which produces a more aggressive form of generated surround sound), and it specifically DOES NOT USE the center speaker so as to keep from screwing up the "sound stage" for the main stereo speakers. [NOTE: Some surround modes have options you can adjust. For example you could, if you wish, adjust PLII-x to not use the center speaker as well and the AVM-50 will remember that setting for that specific mode on that specific input.]


So if you are listening to an incoming 2-channel audio signal, and AL-Music is your default setting -- or if you happen to have selected it manually -- then the center speaker will be silent. Just use the Mode button and the up and down arrow buttons to try different options. If you like one in particular, then go to the Setup / Source screen and set it as the default for that style of incoming audio signal from that particular source device.


The AVM-50 comes with factory preset values for these defaults which are pretty logical. For example the presets for the "CD" input are geared towards music listening and for the "DVD" input are geared towards movie listening. But you are free to change them around as best suits your particular set of sources and the way you use them.


--------------------------------------------------------------------


DVD players often default to 2 channel output until you tell them otherwise. You may have to do this in 2 different places.


First in the Setup inside your DVD player, you need to tell it that it is OK to send the undecoded Dolby Digital or DTS "Bitstream" as digital audio output if the DVD disc happens to offer it. The AVM-50 will decode the Bitstream and play it.


Next, when viewing a given DVD disc, you may have to go into that disc's own menus and tell it you want to listen to the multi-channel sound track instead of the stereo sound track that happens to also be on the disc. Many movie discs default to 5.1 sound already, but some require you to ask for it when playing the disc.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Bob:


That is what I thought was supposed to happen, but it appears as though mine is not sensing the signal properly through HDMI. What I did to test it was run seperate digital cables. One from my DVD player and one from my SAT receiver and then assigned these as my audio inputs in the setup screen rather than HDMI. After doing so, it sensed the signal automatically and defaulted to the settings I selected the way it should. Do you think this is more likely to be a problem with the HDMI cables or with the AVM?


Also....I notice that my Video Processing menu is very small and hard to read on my 51" TV. I think is was Levesque that had a picture from his that looked large. Do you know what might be causing this?


Thanks,


----------



## randman

Levesque:


Yes, the new memory inputs will be really useful. I maxed out in the number of source components that I could connect to the Anthem. But, with v1.10, I can add even more components. Also, as you alluded to earlier, this can be a good solution so that one input can be used for a DVD player for 1080p/24 and another for 1080p/60 (if and when a Blue Ray DVD player comes out that I like.... PS3 would have been a good stop gap solution for now.... although it only does 1080p/60, and I didn't stay up all night long to get one...).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

Well it is possible that both your DVD player and SAT box need an additional setting regarding the type of audio to send out the HDMI cable. The regular digital audio output may be set correctly which is why it works.


Do you have another way to test whether 5.1 audio is coming down the HDMI cable from them? You could take the DVD player to the store and hook its HDMI up to another receiver or 5.1 capable TV just to double check you have the player set correctly and that the cable is working.


This is not likely to be a cable issue.


Are you sure the stereo signal you were seeing was actually coming down the HDMI cable? If you also have regular analog stereo wires connected, and if Auto-Dig is set in the Setup/Source, then if there is *NO* digital audio coming down the HDMI cable the AVM-50 will automatically revert to the analog cabling.


-----------------------------------------------------


The video source adjustment menus (produced by holding down the "7" key) should fill about 50% of your screen. The test pattern bar charts available from those menus should fill your screen. If either of those is not correct then it is likely you have selected a video output resolution your display is not able to handle -- and it is just doing the best it can. There may be some setting you need to make in your display.


Also, in the AVM-50 Setup / Displays menu, be sure the on-screen display is set to generate both S-video and HD versions. The menu item gives you the choice or one, the other, or both of them.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Bob:


With DVD's over HDMI, it will sometimes sense the 5.1 but mostly doesn't. If I turn the AVM off, then back on, it seems to always sense that it is 5.1. However, if I go into setup and then back out, it will go to 2-ch. Or, if I switch to another source, then go back to DVD, it will go to 2-ch. I haven't been able to really detect everytime it does it, but those are some of the cases when it is happening.


The video source adjustment is roughly 20% of my screen size. It is so small, that I have to be right at the screen to read the information. I have the output resolution set to the only one that will work and give a good picture. Any other thoughts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

Well if you are getting it at all then your player is probably set up properly.


It is unlikely to be an HDMI cable problem but it wouldn't hurt to get a high end HDMI cable from someplace where you can return it if it doesn't fix the problem (i.e., Best Buy) and give it a try. Use the shortest cable that will work for you.


Unfortunately you may have a bad AVM-50 HDMI input.


I presume you've got at least the V1.06 firmware in your AVM-50 right? If not, then the first thing you should do is download the new firmware (V1.10) from the Anthem site and install it. If you are running the original V1.00 firmware, the new firmware will fix many many HDMI related issues.


Another thing to try is to set HDMI Repeater = No in the Setup / Source for these two devices. This simplifies the HDMI copy protection handshake. It is just barely possible that your source devices are reverting to two channel because the handshake is getting screwed up and they think the AVM-50 is not capable of receiving 5.1 channel. Each time you exit setup or switch sources a new handshake happens -- another chance for it to get screwed up. The usual result of a bad handshake is that the HDMI turns off (no video and audio muted), but I can imagine ways in which it might still be live but just confused.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

Your video is definitely screwed up. If you are running HDMI to the display then that may be the cable causing the problems -- and yes that can screw up stuff on the input side as well.


What's your display, and what resolution are you sending to it? What goes wrong when you send other resolutions (i.e., why is this one the only one that works)?


If the output resolution you originally intended to use either produced no picture or produced a picture that was shifted horizontally by a bunch (say 1/3 of the screen) then you need to try again but use the alternate setting of Sync in the Setup / Video Output menu.


And again, if you have the original V1.00 firmware, now is the time to install the new firmware.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

Bob, Do you have any ideas for me about no being able to install 1.10?



yatchaks was great .. he sent me the 1.06 and I have 1.07 running again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

budeone,

Sorry, no. You've obviously got a good PC and cable setup if the other installs are going so smoothly. So it's a puzzle.


Try this:


1) Use Setup Editor to save any settings to your PC if you haven't already done so.


2) Install V1.06. As usual, anything connected to the Anthem should be powered off when you do this.


3) Leave everything else turned off and just power up the Anthem. Using the front panel display (and remote) only, go to Setup /Save Restore Settings and Restore Factory Defaults.


4) Power off the Anthem


5) Try to install V1.10.


6) If the install works, power on just the Anthem again and once again Restore Factory Defaults. Now you can restore your settings saved on the PC.


I'm thinking it is just possible you have a setting in the Anthem that differs from the factory default and is getting in the way of the V1.10 install.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

I printed that and I will try on Sunday.


To be real honest... Im tired of standing there trying over and over.


Last night just took it out of me.


This sounds like a format if we were talking about computers..


This just may work...










Thnanks again!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

budeone,

I had another thought. Go to the serial port setup for your PC and check that RTS/CTS is set properly according to the V1.10 install instructions. As I recall Anthem wants it OFF.


RTS/CTS is a pair of serial port hardware signals for "flow control". If the receiving side gets data too fast it can assert this to stop the sending side at the hardware level. The V1.10 load may have files of just the wrong length causing a problem here and the serial port is shutting down and never getting turned back on again -- rather than the data just being re-sent by the installer program.


Re-read the short list of the instructions that came in the V1.10 install package and look for any other possible gotchas like this.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Bob:


My AVM came from the factory yesterday (apparently built last week). On the box it says V1.06.


I have a Toshiba 51HX83 51" CRT with HDCP DVI. It is set to 1080i and is receiving signal from the AVM via HDMI x DVI.


I have an Oppo 970HD DVD player. The output on it is set for "RAW". (My choices are raw or pcm). HDMI audio is set to "Auto". (My choices are auto, lcpm or off). It's output is set to 480i and is going to the AVM via an HDMI cable.


I have a Bell HD PVR Satellite receiver model 9200. It's output is set to 720p and also is going to the AVM via HDMI.


The video output on my AVM is set as follows:


OSD format = NTSC

Preferred = HDMI

Resolution = 1920x1080i/60

Color Space = HDTV

Data Format = RGB

Letterbox = Dark

Sync = Normal

Comp2 out = processed


I spent a significant amount of time with the two techs/installers trying various resolutions until they found one that worked.


So, the two issues are with the mode presets not sensing 5.1 material and with the video adjustment page being very small (20% of screen area).


Thanks for your help.


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> budeone,
> 
> I had another thought. Go to the serial port setup for your PC and check that RTS/CTS is set properly according to the V1.10 install instructions. As I recall Anthem wants it OFF.
> 
> 
> RTS/CTS is a pair of serial port hardware signals for "flow control". If the receiving side gets data too fast it can assert this to stop the sending side at the hardware level. The V1.10 load may have files of just the wrong length causing a problem here and the serial port is shutting down and never getting turned back on again -- rather than the data just being re-sent by the installer program.
> 
> 
> Re-read the short list of the instructions that came in the V1.10 install package and look for any other possible gotchas like this.
> 
> --Bob




I will look.. The only thing it said on the directions was to make it com 3..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

For your Oppo, check it's firmware version against the one shown in the Support section of the Oppo web site. I seem to recall the original firmware had a problem with passing multi-channel audio properly over HDMI. If you have that firmware, this may be an easy fix.


There are lots of Oppo users here who can confirm whether I've remembered this correctly or not.


Also note that if you are playing SACD discs, you HAVE TO raise the Oppo video output resolution to 1080i to get multi-channel audio to work. This is a limitation of the HDMI spec which defines audio bandwidth as being a percentage of the selected video output bandwidth. Return to 480i for normal DVD playing.


For your 9200, there is almost certainly a setting needed to send Bitstream (undecoded Dolby 5.1 audio) output if it is capable of doing it. Double check that there isn't such a setting specific to HDMI audio output. I'm not familiar enough with the 9200, but be aware there are some older devices out there which limit their HDMI audio output to only 2 channels under the theory that you will connect HDMI directly to a TV and thus only have the two stereo speakers in the TV to work with. Typically these devices will have a clue in the manual to the effect that for best audiio you need to make some other audio connection AS WELL as using HDMI (for video). It is also likely that the 9200 will be happier if the Anthem is set to HDMI Repeater=NO on that input.


For your TV, everything you've described sounds correct. I'm going to try to see if I can bring up the Toshiba manual to look for gotchas but my traveling network is flakey so I may not be able to do that.


However, as an experiment, try using Component cables (only) to the Toshiba and see if the Anthem video adjust menu comes up properly at 1080i that way. This is not a workaround given that you want to use HDMI input devices but it may help close in on the problem.


To confirm the firmware version in your Anthem, just press the Select button on the remote control. Repeated pressings will bring up a series of status displays, one of which includes the current firmware version.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Budeone,

I was talking about the "troubleshooting" section at the end of the Read Me First text file in the V1.10 install kit.


I just looked again and yes RTS/CTS should be off. As I recall you are using a USB to Serial adapter and you may need to turn this off yourself depending on how it defaults. It should be settable in Windows Hardware Device Manager for the COM port that the adapter implements.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer

I am also having problems updating my D2.. have had no problems in the past... Will find D2, EPROM programming and verify, and now it is hanging on the Verify Flash portion... in the past, it had made it to the GF programming and then died, and also once made it to the OSD programming section and died....


Same laptop, same connector.. very frustrating... All HDMI is unplugged...


Anybody care to send me some old D2 software? It would be greatly appreciated....

[email protected]


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am also having problems updating my D2.. have had no problems in the past... Will find D2, EPROM programming and verify, and now it is hanging on the Verify Flash portion... in the past, it had made it to the GF programming and then died, and also once made it to the OSD programming section and died....
> 
> 
> Same laptop, same connector.. very frustrating... All HDMI is unplugged...
> 
> 
> Anybody care to send me some old D2 software? It would be greatly appreciated....
> 
> [email protected]



FilmMixer,


I can send v1.06 to you when I get home from work later tonight. This is for the AVM50, but I believe this is the same software download as the D2. Can someone verify that it is the same?


Mark


----------



## obie_fl

FilmMixer I just sent you 1.06. Let me know if you got it.


----------



## bluemark81

Besides running satellite for HDTV, I also have regular old cable from my cable company which comes into the house via coax. I can run this directly to my coax in on the back of the TV and switch my TV inputs to get the signal, but I would rather run it through the AVM for it's switching abilities. Since the AVM does not have coax in, I have a coax x RCA adapter that I could use or I could take that one step further and adapt from RCA to S-vid using a RCA x S-video adapter to go into the s-vid TV input on the back of the AVM. Currently, I am going in using the adapters and into S-vid on the back of the AVM. Then I've changed my setup page to the following settings for TV:



Rename: TV

Scaler Input: S-vid

HDMI Repeater: NA

Component Video In: None

S-Video In: TV

Composite Video In: None

Audio In: Anlg. Dir

NA for the remaining settings.


If I understand the manual correctly, if I use S-video, it will output the signal using HDMI going to my TV. However, I am not receiving any signals on my TV when I switch to TV on the AVM. Does anyone have any suggestions?


Thanks,


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It definitely helps as I already had to add in an external HDMI switcher (now unused while I do gymnastics with the S3 (Brian appreciate the additional info on your setup asked above). Spent a couple hours last night programming remotes to deal with Zone 2 (and making sure to shut it off so the unit doesn't stay on constantly even with Main zone and amp triggered off), but can't complain as at least I have flexibility.
> 
> 
> Now I just need to figure out how to use the extra devices and how to switch the combinations remotely.



Tim,


I'll try to assist, but I am astonished this is not working for you still. So, here goes some things to try:


1. Here are my settings for my Video Output, menu 8:

OSD Format: NTSC

Preferred: HDMI

Resolution: 1080i/60

Color Space: HDTV

Data Format: YCbCr 4:2:2

LetterBox: Black

Sync: Normal

Component 2 Out: Zone 2 ****THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT****


2. Also, make sure that for the Series 3 settings, you have something similar to this:


RENAME: Cable

Scaler Input: HDMI4 (yours may be a different HDMI input of course)

HMDI Repeater: No (very important)

Component Video In: 1 (or whichever yours is)

S-Video In: AUX

Composite Video In: AUX

Audio In: Dig OPT3 (or whichever Optical input you are using)

AutoDig: Yes ***This is quite important as well***


3. Lastly, and this is also very important...

Make sure that your settings under Menu 5 (Source Setup/Presets), make sure that all of the "Copy Main-->Zone2, Copy Main--->Zone 3, and Copy Main---Rec" are all set to "Manual". You can always copy inputs to other zones on an ad hoc basis, but by default, if I understand your needs correctly, you want to be able to have independent zones whereby different sources can be viewed/listened to in the different zones at the same time.


4. Also, you made a comment that raised an eyebrow over here. You said something about "even when the amp has turned itself off automatically after shutting down Zone 1." If you are using an Anthem A5 or P5, then yes, you have the automatic shutdown capability after 10 minutes or so, the amp will go into standby if there is no signal. This is a super cool feature, I'm totally with ya, and I'm glad to hear you are using it. However, you never mentioned having a second amp dedicated to Zone 2. I just wanna make sure that you do indeed have a second amp of some sort powering Zone 2. Each Zone needs its own amp to be useful. This is probably obvious, and you probably already know this, I just wanna make sure. In my case, I use an Anthem A5 for Zone 1, and an Anthem A2 for Zone 2. Zone 3 gets its power off of a 20-watt Computer Amp that is connected to my Mac, so that is a bit of an oddball setup in Zone 3 (I call it Franken-Amp!).


And, as Bob mentioned and as you've now confirmed, make sure the Tivo Series 3 is outputting "Native Mode".


There is no reason that the recipe above should not work with the Series 3. Of course, cabling is a nightmare, as you need both optical audio out and RCA stereo outputs to be connected, you also need HDMI as well as Component, and even SVideo and Composite if you want to independently output to any Zone (including REC zone) that uses SVideo or Composite [in my case, Zone 3 uses Composite, and REC uses SVideo, so I need those as well]. This again is how every source in my setup is configured basically - that is, I am using EVERY possible cable connection between every source and the D2, thereby allowing me to have the fully independent multi-zone, multi-source switching that I require).


I know some of this is repeated from before, but wanted to place everything in 1 comprehensive thread response.


Good luck, let me know how I can help further.


-Brian


----------



## obie_fl

Bluemark - That is not video coming in through the coax it is a modulated cable signal. You definitively don't want to feed that to your AVM-50 it would need a built in cable tuner, which it doesn't have to do anything with it. Your only alternative would be to get an external cable box.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FilmMixer I just sent you 1.06. Let me know if you got it.




Yes.. Tom.. Thanks!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

Even worse the cable TV coax often has voltage on it that can be damaging.


DO NOT CONNECT YOUR CABLE TV COAX TO ANY INPUT ON YOUR ANTHEM!


Cable receivers in set top boxes and TVs are supposed to isolate such voltage, but even so, cable TV cable connections are often a source of 60Hz hum gettting in to your audio system.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Thanks to Bob!


While playing around with various video output settings on the AVM, and also trying component cables as suggested by Bob, I discovered that my AVM reduces the size of the AVM's on screen video adjustment when I am set to 1080i output only. It seems if I set the AVM to any other resolution, the video adjustment window is large and legible. Using 1080i, I can barely read it. This is the case with either HDMI or Component.


Now, I have set the output resolution of the AVM to be 1280 x 720p/60, but my TV is a 1080i. Does this mean that the TV will convert the 720p output coming from the AVM to a 1080i at the TV? Doesn't this defeat the purpose of the scaling abilities of the AVM?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

I looked at the online manual for your TV and what you are doing should work. I could find no settings in the TV that might have confused things. The TV's DVI input is indeed intended for use at 1920x1080i/60Hz.


The video source adjust menus on a 51" screen should be easily readable from 10 feet away or more (if your TV doesn't have image quality problems and if you have normal eyesight).


Something very odd is going on with your video if those menus are so tiny.


-----------------------------------------------------


Check a few things:


1) Watch an HDTV channel using your 9200. Does the image fill the screen?


2) While continuing to watch that, bring up the video source adjust menu. Is it still tiny?


3) Go to the Info panel in the video source adjust menu. Write down the info it displays about input and output stuff and report back here. Does anything look odd to you in that info? For example, is the video output resolution what you expected it to be?


4) Go to the test patterns panel in the video source adjust menu and select any of the bar charts. Does the bar chart display and fill the screen? Use the Back key to exit the bar chart.


5) Exit the video source adjust menu and then repeatedly press the Select key on the remote to bring up the status displays. Write down the info and report back here.


6) Go to the Seup menu. Go to Save/Restore settings page. Select Save User Settings. Confirm that you want to do that and confirm that it responds that the save happened correctly.


7) Now in that same page, select Restore Factory Defaults. Confirm that you want to do that. Your video will likely vanish when you do that, but you can continue using the display on the front panel.


8) You should still be in the same page in Setup, but if not, use the front panel display and reenter Setup and the Save/Restore Settings page. Using the front panel display and the up/down arrow keys on the remote, select Restore Saved User Settings. Confirm you want to do that.


9) Back out of the Setup menu. Your video should be live again. Now try bringing up the video source adjust menus and see if they work better.


10) If not, go back into the video source adjust menu and go to the Crop panel and then the Scaling panel. Write down the current settings and report back here. In particular, double check that you don't have "Bypass" selected. The Bypass setting turns off the scaler and simply embeds the source signal in whatever you have specified as the video output resolution. So for example a 480i signal would appear as a small image in the middle of your 1080i screen. However that SHOULD NOT ALTER the size of the video source adjust menu itself.


I'm grasping at straws here. Let's collect a little more info like this and see if something stands out. The bit about saving settings, restoring defaults, and restoring saved settings will eliminate some confusing temporary settings that may have been turned on by accident during the installation processs.

--Bob


----------



## DrJRapp

Check your TVs setup menu it may have the option to display 720p. I think you will find 720p to be just as pleasant (or more so) than 1080i as there will actually be more pixtels lit on the screen at any given time in 720p than in 1080i. Plus, keeping the TVs internal processor out of the picture and relying strictly on the Genum in the Anthem will give you lower video noise.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks to Bob!
> 
> 
> While playing around with various video output settings on the AVM, and also trying component cables as suggested by Bob, I discovered that my AVM reduces the size of the AVM's on screen video adjustment when I am set to 1080i output only. It seems if I set the AVM to any other resolution, the video adjustment window is large and legible. Using 1080i, I can barely read it. This is the case with either HDMI or Component.
> 
> 
> Now, I have set the output resolution of the AVM to be 1280 x 720p/60, but my TV is a 1080i. Does this mean that the TV will convert the 720p output coming from the AVM to a 1080i at the TV? Doesn't this defeat the purpose of the scaling abilities of the AVM?



Bluemark,


If your TV's normal native rate is 1080i, then you should be sending 1080i from the AVM in all cases to the TV. Set the AVM back to 1080i, not 720p. Don't worry about the video calibration menu being a smaller window, that is how it is intended to look when you are mapping 1:1 pixels to your display. You will not be in this menu that often anyway, once things are set properly for each of your sources. As you note, anything other than what i just described above is a waste of the Gennum scaler in the AVM.


Also, please ensure, as others have said, that you are not connecting a raw cable feed to the D2 in any way, regardless of cable termination type. That could be disastrous, because of the high voltage of a raw cable feed. You need a cable tuner, such as a cablebox, or CableCard, or Tivo DVR, or some combination thereof. Your TV has a built in tuner, your Anthem does not.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For those following the Bluemark81 saga, his TV is an older generation, rear projection, CRT based, HDTV ready TV with an HDCP compliant DVI input that is intended for home theater use (as opposed to PC hookup).


Since it is not a fixed pixel display, it doesn't have a "native resolution" per se, but as with almost all CRT based TVs its internal circuitry works best if it receives HDTV at 1920x1080i/60Hz.


-------------------------------------------------------


Bluemark81,

CRT TVs handle different resolutions by simply adjusting their scan timing. The result is fatter pixels for SDTV and tinier pixels for HDTV -- i.e., the number of pixels that fill the screen is different for each resolution. As such, it doesn't have the same type of "scaling" problems that a fixed pixel display has (such as a plasma panel).


Nevertheless your particular TV is designed to handle HDTV best if fed a 1080i signal. It's not so much an issue of scaling as it is that that's how the circuitry is optimized.


Now it is my understanding that the video adjust menus should remain at their normal size even if you set the Anthem to put out 1080i. If someone knows different that is news to me. Personally I use 1360x768p to my plasma panel and I don't have a 1080 display to test this on. But it would seem very odd to me if Anthem overlooked a user interface issue such as this.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

My video menu gets quite a bit smaller on my CRT front projector when it outputs at 1080i vice 720P. Same thing happens when you increase resolution on a computer screen when you think about it. The menu stays at X number of pixels by Y number of pixels no matter what resolution you are at. So if you increase the screen resolution the physical screen size of the menu is smaller.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My video menu gets quite a bit smaller on my CRT front projector when it outputs at 1080i vice 720P. Same thing happens when you increase resolution on a computer screen when you think about it. The menu stays at X number of pixels by Y number of pixels no matter what resolution you are at. So if you increase the screen resolution the physical screen size of the menu is smaller.



Correct. 1080i will result in this "issue" being seen. It is not a problem at all. Nick at Anthem and I have discussed this in the past as well, it is totally expected behavior.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well it may be "expected" but it surely isn't desireable. This is the first blemish I've heard of in Anthem's support for 1080i/1080p displays.


It is not tough at all to adjust the font size and menu graphics to keep the menus useable at the higher resolutions. If you really do have to get up and go right up to the display to read the menus at 1080i and 1080p then that's just silly. These menus may not be used a lot but they are intended to be used WHILE WATCHING so that you can do things such as turning Edge Cropping on and off as you change channels. Yes there are remote control shortcuts for that but the menus should still be useable from a normal viewing location.


Anthem, if you are reading, take note that Bluemark81's bad reaction to this is unlikely to be unique.


-------------------------------------------------------------------


How about other elements of the on screen display such as volume changes or status displays that come up when you press Select or Mode? Are they also unusably small at 1080i or 1080p?


-------------------------------------------------------------------


Bluemark81,

You may want to use 720p for a while (if it works OK for you) until you get more familiar with the menus so that the tiny type at 1080i is less of a problem. But proper setup for your TV is to send it a 1080i signal, so that's really what you should try to use.


It wouldn't hurt to add your complaint to the list that Anthem support must already have on this.


OK so I guess that means we're back to figuring out just your 5.1 audio problems.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer

Tom.. thanks so much for the software...


Alas.. I am still not able to update the D2 past the GF OSD.. it gets about 75% through and then I get:


"GF9350 OSD Serial FLASH 1 programming failed (error code =0x33394647)"


Yes I am using the D2 upgrade software, and I can reinstall 1.06 no problem......


Weird..... I am sure Nick will be able to help me out..


----------



## nine ball

Bob,

I followed your advice to me in an earlier conversation and the update from 1.00 to 1.10 went in like a charm except for one small detail. I have sound but no picture with any source. I do have the D2 menus however and everything appears to be ok but still no visuals.


to refresh, I have a D2 with p2/p5 , ruby, hp xa1 , Sat HD, Cable HD, oppo and escient tied to the sony 777es carousel with and hp z558 (entertainment center (pseudo media pc)) and finally an xbox.


is there something obvious i need to do???? I have most devices coming HDMI 1080i (except the oppo which is 480i over HDMI) to the D2 and the D2 1080p/60 to the ruby.


any help would be appreciated as I am sitting in front of a blank screen now and my wife keeps pacing back and forth with an I told you so look on her face!!!!


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

FilmMixer,

Try the trick I mentioned to Budeone and see if it helps:


1) Re-install V1.06


2) Save your settings to a PC file if you haven't already done so.


3) Restore Factory Defaults in the D2 Setup menu to get things back to a known state.


4) Now try to install V1.10 over V1.06 set to Factory Defaults


5) If that works then you can restore your saved settings from the PC file.


---------------------------------------------------------


Also, since it is failing in the On Screen Display portion of the firmware, if you have any secondary screen connected via S-video for example, disconnect that as well as the HDMI.


Also, find the Serial port setup for the port your are using and confirm that RTS/CTS is turned OFF on your PC for that port.


I suppose this could also be a baud rate issue triggered by different file sizes in the new firmware. You could try lowering or even raising the serial port speed one step.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Thanks for everyones input. It seems to have started quite a discussion. Anyway, currently, I have my output set to 720p.


Bob, following are the answers to your questions.


My answers follow each one of yours.


1) Watch an HDTV channel using your 9200. Does the image fill the screen? Yes, no problem there with either 1080i or 720p.


2) While continuing to watch that, bring up the video source adjust menu. Is it still tiny? Tiny only on 1080i regardless if I use DVI or component.


3) Go to the Info panel in the video source adjust menu. Write down the info it displays about input and output stuff and report back here. Does anything look odd to you in that info? For example, is the video output resolution what you expected it to be?


From the info screen, the infor is as follows:

For 720 p: or For 1080i

Input

Video Source: HDMI RGB; or No input; (this is odd isn't it?)

Signal: 1280 x 720p/59.94 Hz; or 1280 x 720p/59.94 Hz;

Audio: 2 ch FS:NA; or 2 Ch Fs:NA;


Output

Signal: 1280 x 720p/60Hz; or 1920 x 1080/60;

Frame Rate: 60.0 Hz; or 60;

Line Rate: 45000 Hz. or 33750.



4) Go to the test patterns panel in the video source adjust menu and select any of the bar charts. Does the bar chart display and fill the screen? Use the Back key to exit the bar chart. Fills the screen. Actually, the manual says there should be 20 vertical bars. I have 18.


5) Exit the video source adjust menu and then repeatedly press the Select key on the remote to bring up the status displays. Write down the info and report back here.


AVM v 1.06

Video input: 1280 x 720p/59.94 cp;

Audio in: 384 kbs;

Input: LCR LFE;

Format: LS RS;

Audio out: 48 kHz;

Output: LCR Sub;

Format: LS RS RR RS;

plus additional info that I don't think is relevant.


6) Go to the Seup menu. Go to Save/Restore settings page. Select Save User Settings. Confirm that you want to do that and confirm that it responds that the save happened correctly. I have already done this a few times.


7) Now in that same page, select Restore Factory Defaults. Confirm that you want to do that. Your video will likely vanish when you do that, but you can continue using the display on the front panel. I don't believe I want to do that now that I have everything programmed into it. Is this necessary?


8) You should still be in the same page in Setup, but if not, use the front panel display and reenter Setup and the Save/Restore Settings page. Using the front panel display and the up/down arrow keys on the remote, select Restore Saved User Settings. Confirm you want to do that. See above.


9) Back out of the Setup menu. Your video should be live again. Now try bringing up the video source adjust menus and see if they work better.


10) If not, go back into the video source adjust menu and go to the Crop panel and then the Scaling panel. Write down the current settings and report back here. In particular, double check that you don't have "Bypass" selected. The Bypass setting turns off the scaler and simply embeds the source signal in whatever you have specified as the video output resolution. So for example a 480i signal would appear as a small image in the middle of your 1080i screen. However that SHOULD NOT ALTER the size of the video source adjust menu itself.


I have anamorphic widescreen selected.


I have to say that since setting it to 720p, the picture actually appears to be better, even though 720 is not one of the TV's settings. Maybe it is because I've played around a bit with the video features, now that I can see them.


I hope this does not mean that I have to get a new TV. I still prefer the picture on my CRT over the new technologies, but if the AVM is not compatible, I may have to consider it.



Thanks for your help.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I followed your advice to me in an earlier conversation and the update from 1.00 to 1.10 went in like a charm except for one small detail. I have sound but no picture with any source. I do have the D2 menus however and everything appears to be ok but still no visuals.
> 
> 
> to refresh, I have a D2 with p2/p5 , ruby, hp xa1 , Sat HD, Cable HD, oppo and escient tied to the sony 777es carousel with and hp z558 (entertainment center (pseudo media pc)) and finally an xbox.
> 
> 
> is there something obvious i need to do???? I have most devices coming HDMI 1080i (except the oppo which is 480i over HDMI) to the D2 and the D2 1080p/60 to the ruby.
> 
> 
> any help would be appreciated as I am sitting in front of a blank screen now and my wife keeps pacing back and forth with an I told you so look on her face!!!!
> 
> 
> Peter




Greetings,


nineball, it is important that when this upgrade is done that your HDMI sourced components are not only turned off but I recommend that you disconnect the HDMI cables from the D2. When I first installed this latest update on my unit I got that black/blank screen also.


I reset the unit to factory defaults and disconnected y HDMI cables and reinstalled and it went fine.


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nine Ball,

Yikes! I'd be pacing too!


Try the simple thing first: Press the "Main" path button near the top of the remote then select an input source using the buttons on the bottom of the remote. If you accidentally hit one of the other path buttons on the remote then the source selection will be for that path instead of the Main path.


If that doesn't fix it, the next thing to do is to go into Setup and carefully review all the settings for the inputs and the output to make sure the firmware upgrade didn't change something on you unexpectedly. You have more input choices now with the V1.10 stuff so your prior settings might not have been preserved properly. Apparently the audio side is working so concentrate on making sure the input video plug associated with the Scaler for each input source is correct and that things like HDMI Repeater are set as you wanted them.


I presume you've already checked that your video cables are propely plugged in from the sources.


If none of that fixes it, then we may need to dig around a bit:


1) Select your Oppo input and get a disc playing. It will likely go to its movie startup menu which should produce video and audio. Are you hearing the audio but seeing no video?


2) Press the Select button on the Anthem remote repeatedly and see what status info it gives you. For example, it should tell you the name of the source your selected and the incoming video resolution if any.


3) If you have some other video cable going to your Ruby as well as HDMI be sure the HDMI input is selected on the Ruby -- otherwise you may see the Anthem menus but no actual source video.


This is all I can think of to start. It is possible for the firmware load to fail but it is pretty unlikely for that to happen when it tells you everything worked properly.


You can reload the new firmware on top of itself, but check the other stuff first.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball

Ralph,

thanks for the response. did you have audio with the blank screen???


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ralph,

I suspect the fact that you reset to Factory Defaults prior to re-installing may have been more important than physically unplugging the HDMI plugs. If the HDMI source device is powered off, the HDMI should be completely idle just as if it was unplugged.


It may be that this firmware install really does need to be preceded by a restore to Factory Defaults.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball

Bob,

I have a Warres 63 port with your name on it and it will remain in the cellar untill you come to Oakville for me to thank you. the ruby input button on the remote fixed it........!!!!!!!My God you are good.......


'Thank you so very much...



Your biggest fan,

Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

Thanks for the detailed info. I didn't see anything there that would help you. Apparently this small menu at 1080i is a "feature". There's probably nothing for it except to complain to Anthem.


The question you asked about Restore Factory Defaults has a simple answer:


You Save User Settings, then Restore Factory Defaults, then Restore Saved User Settings back again. This gets everything back to where you had it except for some settings that are specifcally intended to be temporary such as "on the fly" changes in relative speaker volumes. My intent was to get the unit into a known state and then restore your set of personal settings on top of that to see if this helped. This may still help with your 5.1 audio problem. But all the complicated Setup stuff you did for inputs and such will be restored back the way you had it.


This is a procedure recommended in the Anthem manual whenever something unexplained is happening -- just in case you accidentally set one of the temporary settings that affects the problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nine Ball,

Well how 'bout that! Be sure to tell your wife that you, "meant to do that!"


I hope this sorts out your HDMI problems for you.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bluemark81,

On your comment about the number of displayed bars:


You said you were short a couple bars. Your Toshiba likely has a significant amount of overscan (i.e., it is adjusted so that the edges of the image are actually off screen and not visible) since that makes it easier to keep the rest of the image properly focused for all three colors. So you may just have lost 2 bars off the sides.


But if you have a couple of "wide" bars -- particularly at either end of the brightness scale -- then all this means is that you have not yet properly adjusted the black and white levels in your Toshiba.


Use the Toshiba's Brightness control to adjust black level and its Contrast control to adjust white level and see if you can't make those 2 wider bars split into 4 separately visible bars. Brightness and Contrast interact so you may need to iterate a bit to find the best compromise setting for both of them.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ralph,
> 
> I suspect the fact that you reset to Factory Defaults prior to re-installing may have been more important than physically unplugging the HDMI plugs. If the HDMI source device is powered off, the HDMI should be completely idle just as if it was unplugged.
> 
> 
> It may be that this firmware install really does need to be preceded by a restore to Factory Defaults.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Bob, actually I had already gone back to factory prior to the original attempt. I have both the Toshiba HD DVD player and the Panasonic DMP-BD10. My unit was set to the HDMI input that the Panasonic was plugged in to at the time of the problem. I believe that some HDMI equipped devices even though in standby mode (not shut down by a hard power switch or unplugged) are not severing the HDMI handshake. The problem I had was that the HDMI inputs that were connected to the these players no longer worked and only displayed a blank screen ( still had the audio Nineball). I tried it several times that way.


I discussed it with Nick and we both arrived at the same conclusion. I went back and disconnected them and tried it again and all was fine.


Nineball, glad to see that you are up and running.



Regards,


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FilmMixer,
> 
> Try the trick I mentioned to Budeone and see if it helps:
> 
> 
> 1) Re-install V1.06
> 
> 
> 2) Save your settings to a PC file if you haven't already done so.
> 
> 
> 3) Restore Factory Defaults in the D2 Setup menu to get things back to a known state.
> 
> 
> 4) Now try to install V1.10 over V1.06 set to Factory Defaults
> 
> 
> 5) If that works then you can restore your saved settings from the PC file.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Also, since it is failing in the On Screen Display portion of the firmware, if you have any secondary screen connected via S-video for example, disconnect that as well as the HDMI.
> 
> 
> Also, find the Serial port setup for the port your are using and confirm that RTS/CTS is turned OFF on your PC for that port.
> 
> 
> I suppose this could also be a baud rate issue triggered by different file sizes in the new firmware. You could try lowering or even raising the serial port speed one step.
> 
> --Bob



Bob.. thanks for the info... There is nothing connnected at all.. I will try the baud rates.... I had alredy blown out to factory defaults before starting..... One time I did get an error that said it couldn't set baud rate to 115200 ( I am set at 9600 ) but I haven't tried it again since reinstalling 1.06 and changing the baud to 115k... Thanks again.. Marc.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> 
> I'll try to assist, but I am astonished this is not working for you still. So, here goes some things to try:
> 
> 
> 1. Here are my settings for my Video Output, menu 8:
> 
> OSD Format: NTSC
> 
> Preferred: HDMI
> 
> Resolution: 1080i/60
> 
> Color Space: HDTV
> 
> Data Format: YCbCr 4:2:2
> 
> LetterBox: Black
> 
> Sync: Normal
> 
> Component 2 Out: Zone 2 ****THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT****
> 
> 
> 2. Also, make sure that for the Series 3 settings, you have something similar to this:
> 
> 
> RENAME: Cable
> 
> Scaler Input: HDMI4 (yours may be a different HDMI input of course)



Only difference, VCR device renamed "HDTIV", HDMI2 (shouldn't matter)


> Quote:
> HMDI Repeater: No (very important)
> 
> Component Video In: 1 (or whichever yours is)



Component 3 (shouldn't matter)


> Quote:
> S-Video In: AUX
> 
> Composite Video In: AUX
> 
> Audio In: Dig OPT3 (or whichever Optical input you are using)
> 
> AutoDig: Yes ***This is quite important as well***



Main difference number 1. I'm using audio only from the HDMI. (and all the optical audio ins are used up)


> Quote:
> 3. Lastly, and this is also very important...
> 
> Make sure that your settings under Menu 5 (Source Setup/Presets), make sure that all of the "Copy Main-->Zone2, Copy Main--->Zone 3, and Copy Main---Rec" are all set to "Manual". You can always copy inputs to other zones on an ad hoc basis, but by default, if I understand your needs correctly, you want to be able to have independent zones whereby different sources can be viewed/listened to in the different zones at the same time.



Main Difference Number 2: These are all set to Manual, BUT MAYBE MINE SHOULDN'T be. I am only using Zone 2 because the normal mirroring of the component out isn't working to my 2nd monitor. I'll never watch a different source than what I am listening 2 on the Main Zone. Our big difference is you use the Zones as Zones. I'm using Zone 2 only because I have to to get the Tivo video to my second monitor in the same room as my projector. So, maybe I should try *Copy Main -->Zone 2* Bob, would appreciate your thoughts.



> Quote:
> 4. Also, you made a comment that raised an eyebrow over here. You said something about "even when the amp has turned itself off automatically after shutting down Zone 1." If you are using an Anthem A5 or P5, then yes, you have the automatic shutdown capability after 10 minutes or so, the amp will go into standby if there is no signal. This is a super cool feature, I'm totally with ya, and I'm glad to hear you are using it. However, you never mentioned having a second amp dedicated to Zone 2. I just wanna make sure that you do indeed have a second amp of some sort powering Zone 2. Each Zone needs its own amp to be useful. This is probably obvious, and you probably already know this, I just wanna make sure. In my case, I use an Anthem A5 for Zone 1, and an Anthem A2 for Zone 2. Zone 3 gets its power off of a 20-watt Computer Amp that is connected to my Mac, so that is a bit of an oddball setup in Zone 3 (I call it Franken-Amp!).



No second Amp and my primary is a Anthem 7 channel so it triggers (and would auto shutoff I assume) BUT since I turned Zone 2 on to watch the Pre-Amp doesn't go aff.


My Remote journey Try 2 started with making sure any off sequence included shutting off Zone 2. My Remote journey Try 3 included my making sure I turned on Zone 2 when Watching HD-Tivo, Cable HD Moto Box, or Simmetry (DVD/SACD/DVD-Audio). I assumed (INCORRECTLY) triggering a device in Zone 2 would actually turn on Zone 2.... It doesn't. Thank goodness the CCF file has the power on for Zone 2 because I could not learn it.


> Quote:
> And, as Bob mentioned and as you've now confirmed, make sure the Tivo Series 3 is outputting "Native Mode".



Yup



> Quote:
> There is no reason that the recipe above should not work with the Series 3. Of course, cabling is a nightmare, as you need both optical audio out and RCA stereo outputs to be connected, you also need HDMI as well as Component, and even SVideo and Composite if you want to independently output to any Zone (including REC zone) that uses SVideo or Composite [in my case, Zone 3 uses Composite, and REC uses SVideo, so I need those as well]. This again is how every source in my setup is configured basically - that is, I am using EVERY possible cable connection between every source and the D2, thereby allowing me to have the fully independent multi-zone, multi-source switching that I require).



Yikes, but makes sense. I already have named my generations of cables in layers like the Pliestone Age, etc., but I am not running the optical audio which I would need if I was using Zone 2 as a real zone. My ba$tardized setup is working, though if the HD-Tivo worked on mirroring the Main zone properly (like the Motocable does) it would all be simple. Right now it works, but there's enough variables to keep me redoing remote presses to get on track.



> Quote:
> I know some of this is repeated from before, but wanted to place everything in 1 comprehensive thread response.
> 
> 
> Good luck, let me know how I can help further.
> 
> 
> -Brian



THANKS for all your help. I guess I should be thankful that the S3 has hot component output. Setting up a "dummy" zone to get a second monitor to work with the Main audio has been a challenge, but even slightly cludged the Anthem has come through, with many thanks to the good folks here.

Tim


----------



## obie_fl

I would physically disconnect all HDMI devices unless you actually pulled the power cables off the sources. Most cable and Sat boxes aren't really "off" when turned off. I now my cable box can cycle on/off just by switching HDMI inputs on the D2.


Bob - Not sure if this got answered but the OSD is fine under 1080i/p it is just the video menu that gets really small.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OK Tom, that shows they already know how to adjust their character overlay graphics for 1080i/p. So they really should do the same thing for the Video Source Adjust menus.


Shucks! It aint perfect! Sniffle.....


----------------------------------------------------------


Meanwhile I'm getting ready to get really miffed at them if I find I can't calibrate the display properly for my Pioneer Elite 59avi DVD player because they took away source adjustments for RGB to RGB video....

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK Tom, that shows they already know how to adjust their character overlay graphics for 1080i/p. So they really should do the same thing for the Video Source Adjust menus.
> 
> 
> Shucks! It aint perfect! Sniffle.....
> 
> --Bob



Sorry, I disagree. I like the Gennum menu just like it is, so I can see borders and height and width clearly when I trim Edges, or when I crop, change stretch modes, etc. The whole point is to be able to see the result of your work clearly, so they use a Translucent menu structure, and they make the menu 640x480, allowing you to see the edges clearly, so you know what you're adjusting - the theory being that most folks will either have 720p or 1080i/p native sets, so in either case, you can see what 480i looks like when it's exactly 480 pixels by 640 pixels, and still see the edges and borders so that you see what you are modifying. This static pixel height and width is important, as it allows you to see the results of per pixel changes in video settings. If you have to move a little closer to the screen (I do not, but I have 20/20 vision, and yes I do recognize that some might have to), that is a reasonable act me thinks for understanding EXACTLY what you are modifying as you modify it.


Really, this is not a problem IMO. The menu can be seen very clearly, it's just different than the Setup menu, for the reasons given above.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Brian,

I think I see what you are getting at, but in reality most people aren't using this menu primarily for such fine work once they have things set up initially. They are using it to switch between operating modes they already know are set right (such as anamorphic vs letter/pillar box). There's no reason for 1080i/p version of the menu to be hard to read, by design, for such use. Bluemark81 talks about having to get right up to the screen to read the text. This could be a result of the way his CRT is displaying 1080i but if that's the way it is on most displays that's not right.


On the other hand, you say you have no problem reading the smaller menu. I don't have a 1080 display so I have no opinion on how legible it is.


But for heavens sake if the idea is just to have a 640x480 reference on the higher resolution display while you tweak things, then just put markers within the larger, more legible graphics like they do in most every form of standard calibration test chart. I'm not saying the menu has to fill the display. I'm saying it should be designed to be easily legible from normal viewing distance regardless of resolution. And that means filling about 50% of the screen in the current menu format.


Either that or split out the operational menus from the pixel tweaking menus.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer

Tom.. if that messsage was for me... I unplugged all video input to the D2 before upgrading... this is a weird one.. I'll let ya know what Nick says... thanks to all for the help..


----------



## rudolpht

My Kludge Zone 2 has a problem, I can't get my MX-850 remote to issue a Zone-2 ON command. I copy it from the CCF but no joy. (Z2 off works fine & Z2 on works on the MX-950 works). One more reason to trade out the couple dozen MX-800/850s I have in use.


Anybody help with a Zone 2 ON (Z2+Power on Anthem remote) for MX-700/800 series???


----------



## nine ball

Placidman & Bob Pariseau,

I thought I was ok but no joy.....I have sound but no video via HDMI to the ruby. I do have a soft fuzzy poor colour rendition via component (I think) but for some reason 1080P/60 from the D2 just won't take. The ruby has an input button which toggles from "VIDEO" to "HDMI" and video works and HDMI goes black. This is exactly your phenomena.


Placidman I am going to take most of the day off tomorrow and do as you have suggested. I have about a three hundred foot walk to get from the front of my rack to the rear access so there are times I am a little lazy when I have to fiddle with cabling.


Do you think it will make a difference if I disconnect each HDMI connection at each device and leave the D2 side alone? The D2 is in a difficult location to get at but if there is no other way.....................


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nine ball,

It isn't the physical HDMI connection that would cause a problem, it's some electrical signal between the two devices. Disconnecting the cable at either end would be sufficient.


It should also be sufficient to disconnect the other devices from wall power unless there's some sort of ground loop that might put power on that cable coming from some futher removed source.


But pulling the HDMI cable from one end or the other will make sure there's nothing coming in to the Anthem that might hinder upgrade of the HDMI related firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Placidman & Bob Pariseau,
> 
> I thought I was ok but no joy.....I have sound but no video via HDMI to the ruby. I do have a soft fuzzy poor colour rendition via component (I think) but for some reason 1080P/60 from the D2 just won't take. The ruby has an input button which toggles from "VIDEO" to "HDMI" and video works and HDMI goes black. This is exactly your phenomena.
> 
> 
> Placidman I am going to take most of the day off tomorrow and do as you have suggested. I have about a three hundred foot walk to get from the front of my rack to the rear access so there are times I am a little lazy when I have to fiddle with cabling.
> 
> 
> Do you think it will make a difference if I disconnect each HDMI connection at each device and leave the D2 side alone? The D2 is in a difficult location to get at but if there is no other way.....................
> 
> 
> Peter



Greetings,


Peter, I agree with Bob. Pulling the HDMI cable on either end will ensure that the connection between the source and D2 is severed. Be sure to est to factory prior to attempting again.


Your description of the problem sounds identical to the one that I experienced. This should hopefully resolve that and get you up and running.


Regards,


----------



## nine ball

Ralph and Bob,


Thank you for sticking with me through this. The way to ensure that the D2 is reset to factory is to load the set up program first....I assume??? sorry to ask but I want too get this right from the start of this run.

also I assume that the cables other than HDMI are ok???? please say they are so I don't have to start over completely.......


Peter


ps Bob, if this works you may have to share your bottle of port with Ralph and possibly even Nick.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Hopefully you already have a saved copy of your settings in a file on the PC -- saved there prior to your first install of V1.10. You use Setup Editor in the V1.10 install kit to do this. If not you can save your current (V1.10) settings to a PC file and it will probably be OK to re-use those after you re-install V1.10.


Now you Restore Factory Defaults in the Save / Restore settings portion of the D2's own Setup Screen. Since you've already got V1.10 on your machine those will be V1.10 defaults. If you were not re-installing firmware, you could then reload your own settings from Saved User Settings in the same screen. But instead we're going to re-install the firmware and then reload the settings from the file you saved on the PC.


Then you power off the D2, disconnect the HDMI wires (either end), leave other wires attached, but turn off other devices. The serial cable should be attached to your PC. Now power on the D2 and your computer.


Then you re-install V1.10 on top of itself using the install program in the V1.10 install kit.


Now if you have already saved a copy of your Settings to a file on your PC (using Setup Editor in the V1.10 install kit for example) then you can use that file to reload your settings to the D2 after you complete the re-install of V1.10. Otherwise you will need to re-enter your D2 settings manually.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Everything that Bob has said. The only thing I would recommend is that you verify that you do not have the blank screen prior to reloading your old settings. Be sure to use the new 1.10 setup editor and not any older version.


Good luck !


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

The fact that you are having so much trouble reading the small menus at 1080i and that others are not implies to me that there may be some settings in your CRT rear projection TV that are fuzzing up the text.


So here are some suggestions:


1) Turn off SVM. This velocity modulation "enhancement" screws up black and white vertical edges by making the black wider than the white when they should be the same width. As you can imagine, that can really make it hard to read fine detail. This is intended for tricking the eye into thinking that crappy incoming signals look better. Turn it off and leave it off.


2) Lower Sharpness significantly. Sharpness is a different style of vertical edge enhancement. The factory default setting in your Toshiba is without question too high. This results in "ringing" or "haloing" of vertical edges which the casual eye thinks is extra detail. It is not. Such "false detail" makes it much harder to see the real detail as when reading text.


3) Lower Contrast. Contrast more or less controls how bright your whites are. If it is set too high you exceed the ability of your TV to raise brightness uniformly and near whites become indistinguishable from full white causing loss of detail. More importantly, in a CRT display white objects "bloom" or get fatter causing loss of detail.


4) Raise Brightness. Brightness more or less controls your ability to see near black detail. If it is too low, dark grays near black become indistinguishable from true black. However you want to be judicious here and not raise it too far. In addition, Contrast and Brightness interact so you need to find the best compromise setting of both of them.


5) Double check color convergence and adjust as necessary using your CRT TV's controls.


TV makers invariably set the defaults on their TVs too Bright, too Contrasty, overly Sharpness enhanced, and with too blue a color temperature (which fools people into thinking the screen is brighter) which they try to compensate for by overly enhancing Red colors -- so called "red push". Together, these abominations produce the infamous "torch mode" settings -- designed to catch the shopper's eye in the garish lighting in stores. Such settings are way wrong for best TV viewing, and among other things, make it hard to distinguish fine detail such as small text.


Using your DVD player and a calibration test disc such as Avia or Digital Video Essentials (DVE) you can set these basic levels properly yourself. If you haven't done that, then that may explain why the small menus are so hard for you to read.


With the D2 or AVM-50 in use, you want to first set the levels in your TV to best reproduce the images the Anthem generates all by itself. These include the test bar patterns and the Anthem menus themselves.


Then, leaving your newly refined TV settings unchanged, you make any necesssary adjustments for individual source devices in the Anthem's video source adjustment menu for that input.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

re: The video menu being unreadable at 1080i. I think this is more a resolving issue of CRTs then anything else. I have an 8" CRT front projector on a 108" screen and yes the text is very small but it may very well be readable if it was sharper. Only the most finely tuned and 9" CRTs can really resolve everything at 1080i. As far as a CRT is concerned with regards to resolving capabilty 1080i is the same as 1080P. If I finely tune and converge my projector I might be lucky to resolve 960P but that would take a lot of tweeking.


Having said all that I wish they would provide a bigger font for the menu at 1080i/P for us CRT owners.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Hello.


I was wondering if there are any compatability issues with the next gen HD/BR DVD players with the D2 from an audio or video standpoint. For example, the some of these new players will be using hdmi 1.3. Will this create any issues? For example, how well will the new Toshiba HD -XA2 connect with the D2? Any issues with passing DD True HD and the other HD audio formats?


----------



## Kermitpsu2

Anyone using the AVM 50 with a pio elite plasma? I assume you have to still feed the TV through the media box. I'm on the edge of buying one. I have a mca 5 series II amp that I bought a while back but never made the big jump on the processor. Currently Im using a denon 3801 reciever. I'm thinking real hard about spending the cash







Anyone one else make a move similar to mine want to convince me it was a significant upgrade and worth the expense? Thansks guys.


----------



## obie_fl

The new HD-XA2 should work the same way as the present HD DVD players. The new audio formats will continue to be decoded in the player and sent out as LPCM over the HDMI port. HDMI1.3 is downwards compatible with the previous versions. 1.3 really doesn't bring anything new to HD DVD as the audio decoding is done in the player and the deeper color of HDMI 1.3 is not present on either HD DVD or Blu-ray.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was wondering if there are any compatability issues with the next gen HD/BR DVD players with the D2 from an audio or video standpoint. For example, the some of these new players will be using hdmi 1.3. Will this create any issues?



Not at all. HDMI 1.3 is backward compatibles with prior HDMI versions.


HDMI 1.3 is more hype then anything else...


On the video side... Blu-rays and HD-DVDs are limited to 8 bit color. So "Deep Color" won't magically create something that is not already on the disk.


On the audio side... The only difference between HDMI 1.1 or 1.3 could be where the audio will be decoded. In the player (and then passing as LPCM over HDMI) or passed encoded over the HDMI connection to be decoded in the pre/pro to LPCM. And if a disc is encoded with "Advanced Content" (and they all are!) the player is going to decode the audio internally and pass it to the pre/pro as LPCM even with HDMI v1.3.


A good example of Advanced Content is all those annoying sounds you get when navigating the menus on the Toshiba HD-A1. And every Blu-ray and HD-DVD disks out there are encoded like that.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A good example of Advanced Content is all those annoying sounds you get when navigating the menus on the Toshiba HD-A1. And every Blu-ray and HD-DVD disks out there are encoded like that.



Lest people think that is the only thing gained from Advanced Content, you also get mixing in of things like commentary and the like.. Resume is also an Advanced Content feature..


On my firmware upgrade saga, Nick and the boys are working on it... if there is anyone else here having issues, send him an email.


----------



## bluemark81

My CRT RPT has only one HD setting which is 1080i. I've been told that CRT's do not have internal scalers but simply adapt to incoming signals. So, what does the 1080i setting on my TV give me? If I set my AVM 50 at 720p output, what is my TV doing with the signal? ie Displaying it at 720p? What would it do if I fed it a 1080p signal? I have tried the AVM at both 720p and 1080i outputs and don't think I can see any difference other than the video adjustment display being larger when the output is set to 720p.


----------



## nine ball

Bob Pariseau and Placidman,


Thank you Thank you Thank you.......It worked as you described and it appears to have worked well. I believe this is more than just a quirk and that someone (Nick?) should be told that the protocol for the upgrade should be as you have both indicated. I followed the steps to the letter and it worked the first time.


This is exceptional technology and the enjoyment shouldn't be tainted by unnecessary experimentation. I don't know whether its my imagination or not but the result is superior to the before status. AND switching is no longer a risky process. Well done Anthem!


AND if I can one more time.....thank you Bob and Ralph for your patience and support.


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Kermitpsu2,

There is no media box any longer in the current generation of Pioneer plasmas. The off-air tuner is built into the plasma. (There are also commercial "monitor" versions of the plasmas that have no tuner). You would connect to the HDMI input of the plasma screen itself.


One gotcha to watch out for is that I don't believe the current crop of Pioneers accept their physical native pixel count as an input video resolution -- except on the 1:1 pixel matching computer input which may very well give you black/white level problems if you try to use it in a home theater setup. Check with the experts in the flat panel forum here.


Of course if you can pony up the bucks for the Pioneer Elite FHD-1 then you'll have a native 1920x1080p display. Yum!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nine ball,

At the risk of jinxing things again, let me say once more that I'm glad it has finally worked out for you.


-----------------------------------------


Bluemark81,

You'd have to ask Toshiba what the TV is doing. It could be displaying the 720p signal unchanged or it could be scaling 720p to 1080i. For that generation TV, either option is about equally likely. If the latter, its internal scaler may or may not be any good, but detecting bad scaling takes some experience, so you may not see problems. Which is good.


The single link DVI connection in the Toshiba doesn't have the bandwidth to handle a 1080p signal.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

Also, double check in the Info panel to confirm the Anthem really is sending 720p. It's barely possible the Anthem is doing something unexpectedly clever here and sending 1080i but with a larger menu.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob Pariseau and Placidman,
> 
> 
> Thank you Thank you Thank you.......It worked as you described and it appears to have worked well. I believe this is more than just a quirk and that someone (Nick?) should be told that the protocol for the upgrade should be as you have both indicated. I followed the steps to the letter and it worked the first time.
> 
> 
> This is exceptional technology and the enjoyment shouldn't be tainted by unnecessary experimentation. I don't know whether its my imagination or not but the result is superior to the before status. AND switching is no longer a risky process. Well done Anthem!
> 
> 
> AND if I can one more time.....thank you Bob and Ralph for your patience and support.
> 
> 
> Peter



Greetings,


Peter, I am happy to hear that you are up and running. All the best and enjoy your D2 !


Regards,


----------



## obie_fl

Not sure about your RPTV Bluemark but most of them do in fact have scalers. Most CRT RPTVs I have come across convert HD (1080i and 720P) to 540P and display 480P/480i as 480P. If you do a little digging on your Toshiba model you should be able to uncover what it is doing. Try searching the archives here.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tom,

I'm familiar with the next generation OLDER version of Bluemark81's Toshiba (actually the "Cinema" version which is an upgraded version). That older one works like this:


1) 480i/480p is displayed as 540p via its "line doubler" (a rather simple de-interlacer and scaler). This is its EDTV style display.


2) 1080i is displayed as 1080i. The scan rate and resolution is noticeably higher than 540p, and interlace flicker is apparent with fine horizontal lines. This is its HDTV style display.


3) 720p and 1080p are rejected. The TV won't sync to those.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

I did everything everybody suggested.


Still no go.. This time something bad happened....


My speakers started to thump.. real loud... I have no idea why.. I have never seen that before myself.. They seem to be fine.. I have to check them all out a bit more.. but something is wrong, that is for sure.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

budeone,

It's time for you to work this with Anthem tech support. Something definitely got screwed up in your upgrade process and they may need to swap out your unit.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

Yes, I agree.. There is something wrong. I have been emailing back and forth with Nick. No luck.


----------



## rhrhodes

I took the plunge and ordered the AVM50 and PVA5 amplifier from my dealer. I'm hoping the video scaling capabilties help squeeze some more picture quality out of my pioneer FHD1 plasma. I will post back with setup questions and experiences once I receive my unit.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

rhrodes,

I'll be very interested to see how that goes. If I were in the market for a new plasma right now, the FHD-1 would likely be at the top of my list.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

I am using Oppo's 970HD DVD player and I was wondering if anyone who is using the same player has tried bypassing their AVM50 or D2, to compare signals. I tried it tonight and I'm not sure if I am doing something wrong, but the Oppo, straight into my display gives a better picture than being fed trough my AVM. When I send it through the AVM, I am feeding a 480i signal out. When I am going to the display, I am using the Oppo to upconvert to 1080i. $166 Oppo vs $5000 Anthem? Am I missing something here?


----------



## budeone

The AVM-50 also does regular TV and SAT.. Without the AVM you are only gettingthe DVD part.. I wanted it for all TV signals.


I watch CNN and it looks just great!


----------



## obie_fl

Bluemark - There is no way the Media Tek integrated chip in the Oppo should out perform the Gennum in the Anthem.


In what way did the picture look better?

Were you feeding the Anthem via *HDMI* 480I?

Is the Anthem output resolution also set to 1080i?

What is your display's native rate?

Are any of the video adjustments on the Anthem out of whack?

Do you have other video sources connected to the Anthem? How are they?


Something doesn't sound right here. The Oppo may come close but but there is no way it should exceed the performance of the Gennum.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

If you are seeing what looks to you like a better picture from the Oppo directly connected at 1080i then the odds are you don't have the video path properly calibrated through the Anthem.


First calibrate your TV's blacks/whites/colors/sharpness settings to the Anthem's internally generated graphics at 1080i.


Then use a DVD calibration disc to fine tune the oppo input at 480i using the oppo's controls and the Anthem input settings (TV controls left unchanged as set above). The Oppo should be set to send YCbCr 4:4:4 to the Anthem and the Anthem should be set to send RGB to your Toshiba.


It would not take much error in the levels on your TV for the imaging through the Anthem to appear inferior. So you can't really compare imaging until you've calbrated it both ways.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

You bring up a interesting question.


When the Sony Blu Ray players come out.. Do I want to set that to 480i also?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

budeone,

Nope. Set a Blue Ray or HD-DVD player to 1080i or 1080p (depending on the player). Consider using the new Anthem Frame Lock feature if your display can handle a 24Hz (movie style) frame rate and the player also outputs at that frame rate.


If you use the new player for playing old standard def DVDs (not recommended currently as the current new players do a shoddy job of this) then set the player to 480i (or 480p if it won't do 480i).

--Bob


----------



## budeone

I was going to replace my Sony with the new HD sony that is coming out. They say its 1080p.


I was planning on using it for all my dvd's.


Are you suggesting I keep two dvd players hooked up?


The one set at 480i and then the new one at 1080p and bring them both into the anthem?


I have heard you talk about frame lock. I dont think I ever set that menu up. I just went down that great list you gave me a few weeks ago.


Dvds look just great.. just old dvd's look so much better since I swiched that button in the back like you told me to.


----------



## LEVESQUE

The upcoming Pioneer Elite Blu-ray (end of december) will be able to output 480i over HDMI for standard DVD and 1080p24 for HD. Best of both world... Mine is coming soon!


The D2 now has some really nice features for those new Blu-ray players: the memory banks (for 480i and 1080p), and the ability to take 1080p24 in and ouput 1080p48... Again, Anthem is fully ready for those new players, even before they are officially out on the market...


My Oppo will soon be moved to another room...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

LEVESQUE,

I'd hold off on moving that Oppo until you find out whether the standard DVD performance of the new Pioneer is adequate.


I predicted over a year ago that the new players would do a shoddy job of handling standard DVDs since the whole point was to make the new discs look so much better. And so far I've been proved right. Deep sigh...

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

budeone,

Frame Lock is a new, optional feature in the new V1.10 software that lets the output to your display switch automatically between, say, 60Hz and 24Hz to match the frame rate of the currently selected input.


This is only useful if your display can handle the diffferent frame rates -- most older TVs will only handle 60Hz -- and if you have a source device that outputs the different frame rate.


The point is that movie content (unlike normal TV) is recorded at 24Hz. Converting it to 60Hz involves repeating some interlaced half frames (fields) more often than others since the two rates have no common multiple. That introduces a little jerkiness into movie playback


You could do the same sort of switching with the older firmware, but you had to do it manually.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LEVESQUE,
> 
> I'd hold off on moving that Oppo until you find out whether the standard DVD performance of the new Pioneer is adequate.
> 
> 
> I predicted over a year ago that the new players would do a shoddy job of handling standard DVDs since the whole point was to make the new discs look so much better.
> 
> --Bob



I totally agree. But there is a "79AVi" (approximately...) in the new Pio Elite Blu-ray player to play those standard DVDs. So it should be nice... Outputting 480i over HDMI is not something difficult. The "problem" is that those manufacturers can't resist the urge to play with the signal, instead of letting us get a true, untouch, 480i signal digitally.


But at least we will finally get 1080p24 from those HD disks. And that is really nice!


----------



## budeone

I guess I will have to get 1.10 installed..lol


They still have not figured out why it wont install.


I think my tv handles the faster.. Its the new 60 XRB2


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> budeone,
> 
> Frame Lock is a new, optional feature in the new V1.10 software that lets the output to your display switch automatically between, say, 60Hz and 24Hz to match the frame rate of the currently selected input.
> 
> 
> This is only useful if your display can handle the diffferent frame rates -- most older TVs will only handle 60Hz -- and if you have a source device that outputs the different frame rate.
> 
> 
> The point is that movie content (unlike normal TV) is recorded at 24Hz. Converting it to 60Hz involves repeating some interlaced half frames (fields) more often than others since the two rates have no common multiple. That introduces a little jerkiness into movie playback
> 
> 
> You could do the same sort of switching with the older firmware, but you had to do it manually.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I believe my FHD1 can handle 1080p24, 1080p48, and 1080p60. I am using the HD-A1 HDDVD player and will likely be getting the Pioneer blu-ray player when it's available. As I understand, the Toshiba player converts the 1080p24 data on disc to 1080i60 output. What output format from the AVM is going to give the best picture, 1080p24 or 1080p60 (I'm assuming I should let the AVM50 de-interlace the signal rather than the plasma)? Should I just enable the frame lock feature on the AVM and let it pick the output frame rate? Logic tells me that 1080p60 should be better since it will reduce the amount of processing, too bad the 1st gen Toshiba can't do 1080p24.

Thanks,

Ryan


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Levesque,

I'm talking about things like loss of Blacker than Black and Peak White data when playing standard DVDs as well as Y/C delay problems. As I recall some of the new players have even been detected showing MPEG decoding errors, which is inexcusible.


And of course the early players couldn't even be bothered with implementing 480i over HDMI.


Now Pioneer certainly knows how to do it right. The only questions are whether they care, and whether they'll put in the necessary testing to make sure bugs haven't crept in.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

rhrhodes,

My understanding is that the Anthem can generate a perfect 1080p/24Hz or 1080p/48Hz from a proper 1080i/60Hz signal that happens to contain film frame rate content that has been "rev'ed up" to 60Hz by duplicating fields in one of several possible cadences. And of course it also does the right thing if asked to generate 1080p/60Hz from that signal which is what you want for incoming 1080i HDTV non-film content. By default, film rate content would go out as /60Hz by simply retaining the cadence.


I haven't played with any part of V1.10 yet (still traveling), and I don't have a 1080p display. I don't know just how smart the new Frame Lock stuff is.


Ideally it would detect the repeating cadence in the incoming 1080i/60Hz signal and would then know that it was appropriate to switch the output format from the "normal" 1080p/60Hz to an alternate film frame rate output. Ideally that would be 1080p/48Hz (since 72Hz is still a step too far these days). But 1080p/24Hz would be the next best.


Your FHD-1 would then display that incoming signal without scaling simply by switching its refresh rate. The older Elites switch to 72Hz for this, but I'm not sure if the FHD-1 does that or displays these signals at 24Hz or 48Hz. The point is, whichever rate is used, all fields are duplicated the same number of times so there is no jerkiness to what you see. So 24Hz or 48Hz are indeed the right signals to feed the FHD-1 for such film based content.


Folks who've actually played with this Frame Lock stuff should post sample configuration setups here as well as listing any gotchas so everyone can learn.


----------------------------------------------------------


Also I believe the Pioneer Elites below the FHD-1 will accept 1080p/24Hz (but not /60Hz!) and will then internally convert that to 768p/72Hz for display. But I'm foggy on the details there as well.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Bob and Levesque:


I hope you guys are right and it is simply a matter of calibration, however, I have frigged at it for many days now trying to make the picture coming from the Anthem better than the Oppos. To answer some of your questions, the Oppo is set to 480i and RGB when feeding into the Anthem. When I send it directly to the TV, I upconvert the Oppo to 1080i. I have tried setting the sources first to improve the signal off them first, then my TV and then the Anthem. But never fails, just when I think I have it perfected, I try switching back to the Oppo and no question, it appears better. This seems to be the case even when I switch my Sat reciver over directly. Do you think it is possible that it is the cable from my Anthem to my TV? Could it make that much of a difference?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

Set the Oppo to YCbCr output when connected to the Anthem at HDMI 480i. [You will need it to be set to RGB for direct connect to your Toshiba, but that's not the proper color space to use when connecting it through the Anthem.]


Set the Anthem to send RGB at 1080i/60Hz to your Toshiba. I know you have a problem with the menu size, but that's the proper resolution to send to your Toshiba from the Anthem.


Calibration goes like this:


1) Turn off torch mode settings in your Toshiba -- i.e., select Movies picture mode in the Toshiba and modify from there, turn off SVM, turn off flesh tone correction, turn off noise reduction.


2) Turn off torch mode settings in your Oppo -- i.e., set the Oppo to do the least possible to the output signal. Set the Oppo to factory default blacks/whites/colors/sharpness level settings. Turn off any optional picture "enhancements".


3) Using the Anthem's internally generated color bar patterns and the blue gelatin see through filter from your calibration DVD, set the blacks/whites/colors/sharpness levels on your Toshiba. You will like need to lower Contrast (white levels) and Sharpness a lot. Brightness (black levels) may need to come up a bit. Color and Hue may be OK but will likely need to be adjusted at least a bit. Sharpness will likely be best adjusted by viewing the Anthem video adjust menu. Lower it to the lowest possible setting and then raise it up, but stop before even the first hint of haloing appears on vertical edges.


4) Play a calibration DVD in your Oppo. Using the Anthem Video Adjust Menu settings, adjust blacks/whites/colors as necessary according to the instructions in the calibration DVD. Do not make setting changes in the Toshiba or the Oppo to accomplish this. Make all setting changes in the Anthem's own input settings.

--Bob


[Edited to clarify.]


----------



## bluemark81

Bob: Thanks for the information. I will have to try to get a calibration disk and try your suggestions. I will let you know how it goes. By the way.....how do you know so much about this stuff?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Pretty much by struggling with the same sort of issues you are struggling with.


In the past I've been very active on the standard def DVD forum here where many of these issues come together.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Bob:


I ran out to a couple of stores here that I thought may carry the calibration disks. No luck so far. I may have to purchase one online. However, I'm not familiar with the term "torch" settings. You seem to know alot and likely more about my equipment than I do, but to just give you a rundown on the various picture settings on both my Toshiba and Oppo, they are as follows:

*Toshiba:*


mode;

contrast;

brightness;

color;

tint;

sharpness;

ALS;

Flesh tone;

SVM;

Temperature.

*Oppo:*


TV display;

Sharpness;

Brightness;

Contrast;

Hue;

Saturation;

Gamma;

Color Space;

TV type;

PBC.


Thanks again


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Read back a few posts. I explained what the so-called "torch" settings were on the TV. The factory default settings are just set wrong for good viewing because that makes for an eye catching picture in the stores.


For the Oppo, the factory default settings for everything except setting a 16:9 TV are likely to be correct. Others will chime in here if I'm wrong.


Time to eat turkey!

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not at all. HDMI 1.3 is backward compatibles with prior HDMI versions.
> 
> 
> HDMI 1.3 is more hype then anything else...
> 
> 
> On the video side... Blu-rays and HD-DVDs are limited to 8 bit color. So "Deep Color" won't magically create something that is not already on the disk.
> 
> 
> On the audio side... The only difference between HDMI 1.1 or 1.3 could be where the audio will be decoded. In the player (and then passing as LPCM over HDMI) or passed encoded over the HDMI connection to be decoded in the pre/pro to LPCM. And if a disc is encoded with "Advanced Content" (and they all are!) the player is going to decode the audio internally and pass it to the pre/pro as LPCM even with HDMI v1.3.
> 
> 
> A good example of Advanced Content is all those annoying sounds you get when navigating the menus on the Toshiba HD-A1. And every Blu-ray and HD-DVD disks out there are encoded like that.




LEVESQUE- thanks for this great thread! I see a lot of people posting here that I have a great deal of respect for, which is comforting (too many to mention in fact, so I won't







) .


My head is spinning after skimming through this thread, but your post above hits on the very question(s) that I was going to ask regarding the D2.


For clarification, is the D2 currently capable of decoding the new HD audio formats such as TrueHD and DTS-HD? Or do they have to be decoded in the player first, then sent as LPCM to the D2? It appears that many of the players currently on the market wont internally decode these new audio formats, so it would be great if the D2 did.


If the D2 does not do this currently, will a firmware upgrade be available that will allow it to do so?


I have the new JVC RS1 projector on order, and I will probably want a VP/Switcher for it. I figure since the D2 will also give me HDMI audio inputs (which my current Parasound C2 does not have) I could kill 2 birds with one stone by purchasing the D2.


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> rhrhodes,
> 
> My understanding is that the Anthem can generate a perfect 1080p/24Hz or 1080p/48Hz from a proper 1080i/60Hz signal that happens to contain film frame rate content that has been "rev'ed up" to 60Hz by duplicating fields in one of several possible cadences. And of course it also does the right thing if asked to generate 1080p/60Hz from that signal which is what you want for incoming 1080i HDTV non-film content. By default, film rate content would go out as /60Hz by simply retaining the cadence.
> 
> 
> I haven't played with any part of V1.10 yet (still traveling), and I don't have a 1080p display. I don't know just how smart the new Frame Lock stuff is.
> 
> 
> Ideally it would detect the repeating cadence in the incoming 1080i/60Hz signal and would then know that it was appropriate to switch the output format from the "normal" 1080p/60Hz to an alternate film frame rate output. Ideally that would be 1080p/48Hz (since 72Hz is still a step too far these days). But 1080p/24Hz would be the next best.
> 
> 
> Your FHD-1 would then display that incoming signal without scaling simply by switching its refresh rate. The older Elites switch to 72Hz for this, but I'm not sure if the FHD-1 does that or displays these signals at 24Hz or 48Hz. The point is, whichever rate is used, all fields are duplicated the same number of times so there is no jerkiness to what you see. So 24Hz or 48Hz are indeed the right signals to feed the FHD-1 for such film based content.
> 
> 
> Folks who've actually played with this Frame Lock stuff should post sample configuration setups here as well as listing any gotchas so everyone can learn.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Also I believe the Pioneer Elites below the FHD-1 will accept 1080p/24Hz (but not /60Hz!) and will then internally convert that to 768p/72Hz for display. But I'm foggy on the details there as well.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, thanks Bob. I downloaded the manual last night and started reading through it. It sounds like what I need to do is setup the video output for 1080p24. The frame lock feature should be *disabled* for the HD-DVD player input, causing the AVM to output 1080p24. The frame lock feature should be *enabled* for my HD cable box, and this will cause it to override the output to 1080p60. If I'm watching a broadcast HD film over my cable box, I might want to setup another source input with the frame lock off so that it will convert to 1080p24. BTW, is there any way to disable the video processing entirely and just use the AVM as a switch? I'd like to compare the picture with and without processing without having to rewire everything. From what I can see in the manual, there is no way to completely disable processing. I apologize in advance if this has already been covered in this thread, it's pretty long and I haven't had a chance to read all of it yet.


----------



## drhankz

I'm interested in buying a D2. I went to my local Anthem Dealer to see a D2 in action. Of course they didn't have one - but they did have an AVM-50 which they demonstrated.


Whatever they were using for a source - he didn't know or however they had the video scaler configured - he didn't know - the video was awful. I didn't really care - I was there to evaluate the audio. Overall - I was happy with the audio sound.

*HOWEVER*, When there was no AUDIO - there was a DEAL-BREAKING *HUM*. The salesperson said Anthem was aware some early AVM-50's and D2's Had a *HUM* issue generated by the scaler. He said Anthem would take back the unit and fix any that had the *HUM*.


Is this something that owners here have experienced?


Fix or No Fix - I could not believe any Company would let a product out the door with that kind of *HUM*.


I will appreciate your feedback on this issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drhankz,

Find another dealer.


There's no hum problem in either the D2 or AVM-50, and no such repair is needed.


This guy has just set up his demo area badly and he's got a ground loop -- 60Hz power passing between devices along their common ground connection.


Apparently that's not the only problem he's got with his demo setup. Deep sigh....


The audio section of these two units is very clean -- no base level noise at all -- even when the scaler is going full blast.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

I've given up! I went out, purchased all new HDMI cables and a calibration DVD and the picture quality now even appears worse than it did before. Not that the picture is bad, but I expected to be wowed by the $5000 AVM50 and not by a $166 Oppo. There has to be something wrong.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

Get out your magic decoder ring and I'll let you in on the secret the industry doesn't want you to know (in their eagerness to get people to buy new receivers next year):


Most commecial discs for the new formats are authored in the "advanced" mode. That means that the player *HAS TO* decode the high res audio format regardless of whatever the receiver might or might not be capable of doing. This requirement exits because of "advanced" audio overlay in the player (sound effects, comment tracks, etc.). Even if you are not using such features, an advanced mode disc has to be decoded by the player. Period.


If the player is not capable of decoding one or another of the new audio formats on any given "advanced" disc, then that player can not play that format when viewing that disc REGARDLESS of how you cable it up and regardless of what the receiver can do. This is true even if the player comes with the upcoming HDMI V1.3. Advanced discs HAVE TO BE decoded INSIDE the player.


Once the player decodes the high res format there are only three things it can do with it:


1) Convert it to multi-channel analog and send it out on multi-channel analog audio output jacks.


2) Ship it to the receiver as multi-channel PCM on HDMI V1.1 or higher -- protected by HDCP.


3) Down-res it to traditional multi-channel audio bandwidth, re-encode it as a traditional format -- typically old, standard DTS -- and ship it out the traditional optical or coax digital audio output. This is for compatability with receivers older than HDMI V1.1.


That's it.


All of this hype about upcoming HDMI V1.3 being able to transmit the undecoded form of the new formats to upcoming receivers that will do the decode themselves (as is already done with the standard format, normal res, Dolby Digital or DTS tracks) is just that. Hype.


Almost any disc you stick in the player will be "advanced" and if the player can't do the decode itself then you just can't listen to that particular audio track.


-----------------------------------------------------


The D2 (and AVM-50) are HDMI V1.1 devices. They don't decode the new audio formats and likely won't in the future.


But that's irrelevant because playing these tracks on the "advanced" commercial discs requires buying a player that can do the decode to high res PCM and send that to the D2. The D2 handles such incoming high res streams very well indeed.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz,
> 
> Find another dealer.
> 
> 
> There's no hum problem in either the D2 or AVM-50, and no such repair is needed.
> 
> 
> This guy has just set up his demo area badly and he's got a ground loop -- 60Hz power passing between devices along their common ground connection.
> 
> 
> Apparently that's not the only problem he's got with his demo setup. Deep sigh....
> 
> 
> The audio section of these two units is very clean -- no base level noise at all -- even when the scaler is going full blast.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob:


I appreciate and respect your input - HOWEVER - in doing my research - I did find

another corroborating example of HUM.

http://cgi.videogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.p...1ch&1162920369 


I do want to purchase a D2 - but it does seem like something I need to be concerned

with. I don't have many dealers in my area.


Hank


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

Don't give up. It takes a while to get familiar with video calibration. By the way, there's a whole forum here dedicated to helping people do this (user level video calibration using tools such as calibration DVD discs).


In addition, your Anthem dealer may very well offer calibration service (ISF calibration) for a few hundred bucks. This is professional calibration by a technician who brings signal generators and a light sensor to measure what your TV is actually doing with the test signals.


I think you might want to spend some time with your Anthem dealer and see if he can give you a hand. You've already spent some big bucks with him.


Of course there really could be something wrong with your Anthem, but it's tough for us to nail that down without actually being there to see what's going on and how you have things set up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drhankz,

Any manufacturer can have a product failure. But this thread has been going forever, and if hum was a common problem in D2 or AVM-50 units -- to the point where Anthem announced a fix to dealers -- I'm sure we'd have heard about it. People aint shy about reporting such stuff here.


We've had all sorts off other problem reports -- the usual crop of stuff with a hot new product -- but hum just isn't on the radar.


EDITED TO ADD: We have had some hum discussions in here, but as I recall each and every case was resolved as being due to some other piece of faulty equipment in the setup.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Thanks for the response Bob. It almost goes without saying that you were one of the people I was referring to in my post who I have a great deal of respect for.










Your post has clarified things greatly. I guess the follow up question would be what players (particularly Blu-ray) currently decode the new audio formats and send it to the D2 in PCM _via HDMI_ (not using analog cables as the Toshiba HD-A1 does)? (sorry if this is getting a little off topic)


Regarding the D2's video processing, does it use the same Gennum chip that the Pixel Magic Crystalio II is using?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz,
> 
> Any manufacturer can have a product failure. But this thread has been going forever, and if hum was a common problem in D2 or AVM-50 units -- to the point where Anthem announced a fix to dealers -- I'm sure we'd have heard about it. People aint shy about reporting such stuff here.
> 
> 
> We've had all sorts off other problem reports -- the usual crop of stuff with a hot new product -- but hum just isn't on the radar.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob:


I would hope not. It is a mystery to me how a high-end audio equipment

manufacturer can let anything out the door with HUM. This is the 21st

Century last I looked [GRIN]!


I have gone the extra mile to make sure there is NO HUM in my theater

and I want to keep it that way.


Thanks Again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

The D2 uses a Genum VXP chip. I'm not certain it is exactly the same one that is in the Crystalio II, but I believe it is. I'll bet Levesque, et. al., will chime in here.


The Toshiba HD-A1 *DOES* decode and send full bandwidth PCM over HDMI V1.1 to the D2. There are many here using it just that way today. Now I know that some of the players shipped without all the new audio decoders, but the ones they DO decode work just fine over HDMI to the D2 -- at full bandwidth and quality.


The HD-A1 also has multi-channel analog outputs, which you simply don't need with a D2.


I've lost track of which players are currently shipping with which audio decoders installed.


-------------------------------------------------------------------


Drhankz,

I, too, hate hum. With a passion. My D2 is blissfully free of any such problem. Again that's just one unit, but if this were a common flaw I'm quite sure this thread would be full of the sounds of wailing and gnashing of teeth.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Drhankz,
> 
> I, too, hate hum. With a passion. My D2 is blissfully free of any such problem. Again that's just one unit, but if this were a common flaw I'm quite sure this thread would be full of the sounds of wailing and gnashing of teeth.
> 
> --Bob



If there is a problem - I'm sure Anthem would stand behind their units and fix

the problem. I'll touch base with Nick or Frank in Tech Support on Monday just

to confirm Anthem will fix the problem if I happen to be unlucky and get one

with the problem. ALSO - for the two cents it is worth - the dealer did say the

problem was only in the first units shipped with scalers and does not exist

anymore.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> The D2 uses a Genum VXP chip. I'm not certain it is exactly the same one that is in the Crystalio II, but I believe it is. I'll bet Levesque, et. al., will chime in here.
> 
> 
> The Toshiba HD-A1 *DOES* decode and send full bandwidth PCM over HDMI V1.1 to the D2. There are many here using it just that way today. Now I know that some of the players shipped without all the new audio decoders, but the ones they DO decode work just fine over HDMI to the D2 -- at full bandwidth and quality.
> 
> 
> The HD-A1 also has multi-channel analog outputs, which you simply don't need with a D2.
> 
> 
> I've lost track of which players are currently shipping with which audio decoders installed.



Interesting, I was under the distinct impression that you HAD to use the analog outs on the A1 to get TrueHD decoded. I am very glad to hear that is not the case! I've already learned a lot from this thread. Thanks again Bob.


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting, I was under the distinct impression that you HAD to use the analog outs on the A1 to get TrueHD decoded. I am very glad to hear that is not the case! I've already learned a lot from this thread. Thanks again Bob.



Has anyone here tried comparing a TrueHD PCM stream via HDMI against the down converted DTS from the Toshiba's optical output with a D2/AVM50? I'm interested in knowing how much of an improvement there is.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess the follow up question would be what players (particularly Blu-ray) currently decode the new audio formats and send it to the D2 in PCM _via HDMI_ (not using analog cables as the Toshiba HD-A1 does)? (sorry if this is getting a little off topic)



If you were looking to but one today, you have zero choices... Panny says they are soon going to upgrade theirs, but when is anyines guess.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Regarding the D2's video processing, does it use the same Gennum chip that the Pixel Magic Crystalio II is using?



Rob, nice to see you here!


Yes, exactly the same chip. There is a newer and more advanced Gennum VXP chip now on the market with better and more powerful Noise Reduction (NR) features, and doing a better job with Anime cadence.


But it would be really sad if we would have to use NR with Blu-rays and HD-DVDs... It's more useful for people listening to bad standards channels with alot of noise. Someone could always buy the Algolith Flea instead though to do the same thing...


About multi-ch LPCM and the new HD players. They all send LPCM out over HDMI, and they will probably always will, since all the disks are encoded with "Advanced Content". Or else, there would be no sound while navigating menus, etc. Decoding is always happening in the player.


All the manufacturers will soon have big and shiny "HDMI 1.3" stickers on their new receivers, pre/pros and displays to suck people in the hype, and resell new gears to all those poor souls not knowing the truth about HDMI 1.3.


Just look here on AVS in this forum. Everyday there is a new post from someone asking desperately for the new "HDMI 1.3" receivers, and if they should wait, and why they are not already on the market, and (the worst...) there is always someone else telling him to wait for those and not buy today, since HDMI 1.3 will magically solves all our problems!


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Thanks Levesque, nice to be here!










I appreciate the explanation regarding the audio formats and decoding, as well as knowing the D2 is using the same Gennum chip as the Crystalio II.


FilmMixer-


That's exactly what I thought. Only the Panny, and even that player doesn't do it yet, pending firmware updates. Sheesh!


Another question for anyone: what are the differences between the D2 and the AVM50?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Another question for anyone: what are the differences between the D2 and the AVM50?


 Anthem Comparison Chart 


D2 ---- greater lip sync delay (up to 170ms)

Dual DSP engines

DTS 96/24

24/192 upsampling on all inputs

$2000 more MSRP


----------



## Rob Tomlin

^ I found that comparison just before you posted, and it is, indeed, very helpful.


I'll probably save the 2 grand by going with the AVM50, since I am spending money like it grows on trees lately!


----------



## obie_fl

Rob - Be aware that the D2 has a room correction upgrade that apparently uses the second DSP and will not be available on the AVM-50. I'm also a believer in upsampling.


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob - Be aware that the D2 has a room correction upgrade that apparently uses the second DSP and will not be available on the AVM-50. I'm also a believer in upsampling.



There you have it,

Upsampling of the D2 is a huge consideration

but,

The D2 getting, the AVM-50 NOT getting, Anthem's room EQ upgrade

was the deal maker for me.


dc


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

Just to clarify Tom's post, Anthem has been working on Room EQ for some time, and the rumor is that it will be available for the D2 (only) early next year. It is not available yet. The AVM-50 doesn't have the necessary spare DSP power to support this.


The D2's audio section is basically the D1 (plus HDMI audio input of course). So any writeups you find on D1 audio quality will apply to the D2.

--Bob


----------



## randman

Some questions on the room eq, in case anyone has any advanced knowledge about it:


1. Will a hardware upgrade be required to use the Room EQ, or just a firmware upgrade? I'm not sure how a microphone would be hooked up without a hardware upgrade, unless maybe one of the XLR inputs can be used. Also, what will be the source of the signals that will be used to do the equalization? An external box maybe, unless there is a way to have the D2 generate the frequences via software (after all, it generates the sound for the level settings menu)?


2. Will the room EQ only be for low frequencies, such as those below 100Hz? The reason I ask is because this is the way some manufacturers, such as Meridian and Lexicon (?) have implemented room EQ. They seem to feel that doing room EQ on higher frequencies is not very helpful due to the nature of higher frequencies (this is a long story, and Meridian has a good article on its web site explaining why room EQ is only useful for low frequencies. This is a similar position that Anthem had a while back).


3. If room EQ is only for lower frequencies, then is there any benefit for users who already have either the Velodyne SMS-1 or the Velodyn DD series subwoofers, which provide room EQ for sub frequences?


Thanks.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The upcoming Pioneer Elite Blu-ray (end of december) will be able to output 480i over HDMI for standard DVD and 1080p24 for HD. Best of both world... Mine is coming soon!
> 
> 
> The D2 now has some really nice features for those new Blu-ray players: the memory banks (for 480i and 1080p), and the ability to take 1080p24 in and ouput 1080p48... Again, Anthem is fully ready for those new players, even before they are officially out on the market...
> 
> 
> My Oppo will soon be moved to another room...



Great! I can't wait.... I just saw a demo Pioneer Blu-Ray player in Best Buy (one of the larger ones with a separate Magnolia Home Theater section). Looks interesting, and I'm glad, unlike the Philips, that it is possible to turn off the nasty bright blue light. I don't care about the Pioneer's ability to play MP3s and pictures from a PC (after all, my TiVo already does that, and my PC is hooked up to my system anyway). I assume that it can decode all the new audio formats and output LPCM? I'd be interested to see how the Sony player compares to the Pioneer, given that the Pioneer costs 50% more than the Sony. Sorry to get off topic here, just excited to get a Blu-Ray player (maybe Levesque should start a Blu-Ray thread  )...


----------



## flynnflamman

Sorry to shift the topic away from EQ but I have a quick question. If I run the HDMI output into a DVIGear or Gefen 1-in / 2-out splitter, would this splitter be considered a repeater and so should I set the "repeater" opton to yes for the inputs? Is anyone splitting their output? My setup would be to a plasma and projector.


kevin


----------



## obie_fl

Is it still true that the Pioneer Blu-ray player can't play CDs, SACDs or DVD-As? That would be a real show stopper... that and outlaying that kind of money for an unproven format. I"ve thought about picking up a PS-3 until things shake out a bit but I just can't bring myself to hook up a game machine to my D2.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Thanks for the info on the audio abilities of the D2 vs the AVM50 guys. I saw this coming! I was hoping you would make it easy on me and tell me to just go with the less expensive AVM50, but noooo, you had to go on talking about the merits of the extra horsepower of the D2, didn't you!?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

That's what you get for asking! (grin!)


------------------------------------------------------------------------


Tom,

Levesque believes the upcoming Pioneer Blue Ray player will also be the equivalent of a Pioneer Elite DV-79avi as regards standard DVDs and the exotic audio formats. I don't know what inside scoop he has but frankly I'm skeptical.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------


Flynnflamman,

The HDMI Repeater = Yes/No setup option in the D2 and AVM-50 affects *INPUT* operation only. Repeater = Yes means the Anthem presents itself to the source device as a "repeater" and that the source device bears the burden of establishing HDCP compliance of anything on the output side of the Anthem -- i.e., a player first asks the Anthem and then it asks the TV beyond the Anthem in a communication that goes through the Anthem.


Repeater = No means the Anthem pretends to the source device that it is actually a TV. If the real TV is turned off, then Anthem says it is HDCP compliant. If the real TV is turned on the Anthem figures out whether or not the real TV is compliant and presents that result to the source device.


Repeater = No is useful for source devices with a crappy implementation of HDMI -- such as many many cable and sat set top boxes -- which simply give up as soon as they discover they are not directly connected to a TV. It is also useful for enabling HDMI audio output from some devices even when the real TV is turned off.


Repeater = Yes is the "default" processing for HDMI. I've yet to discover any downside to setting Repeater = No in the Anthem for any given input, but conceivably a setup with Repeater = Yes would allow the source device to discover characteristics of the real TV that the Anthem is not smart enough to emulate.


The question of whether an HDMI switch will work on the output side of the Anthem is a good one. We've had several reports here of people using HDMI splitters with good results but splitters and switches open up a real can of worms as regards HDCP copy protection, so I don't think there are any guarantees here.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------


Randman,

The rumor, and it is only a rumor, is that Room EQ will be added to the D2 without a hardware upgrade to the D2 itself. Of course a calibrated mike will need to be part of the package. How it will connect is not clear. The Anthem is more than capable of generating the necessary test signals.


Bass Room EQ represents the biggest problem. It is not clear how much of the frequency range Anthem intends to cover and how this will mesh with the Velodyne offerings (i.e., the DD series subs or the stand-alone SMS product). Rumor is that Anthem is targeting a more general solution but whether this implies full frequency coverage or just an automated, or auto assisted process is not clear.


However, odds are that Anthem will be trying to tie Bass Room EQ in with their related Paradigm Signature subwoofer products. Whether this causes issues for Velodyne owners is not knowable yet.

--Bob


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Repeater = No is useful for source devices with a crappy implementation of HDMI -- such as many many cable and sat set top boxes -- which simply give up as soon as they discover they are not directly connected to a TV. It is also useful for enabling HDMI audio output from some devices even when the real TV is turned off.



I had mine set as yes and it would not work with the sat box. I turned it to No and its been fine.


I replaced my Adcom GTP-750 with the AVM-50 and as far as sound goes it is NIGHT and DAY.


My G/F who just watches TV and Movies talks about it(that is a downside, her talking). I thought my sound was great before.. Now it just does not even compare.


----------



## LEVESQUE

There was a big and famous canadian project at the NRC a couple of years ago that was called the "Athena project" (with Dr Toole), and now some of those great guys are programing our D2s and AVM50s...


If you know anything about the Athena Project, then you know that the Anthem's room-eq will probably be really powerful, and probably be one of the best in the industry.










They taught about coming out with room-eq last year, but the only way for them to do things like they wanted to do them , people would have need to use a PC besides the D1, and they taught the "average Joe" would be "afraid" to use it. An internal solution was the only way to do it.


The guys at Anthem don't like the solutions used in the other receivers manufacturers. They want to do something different, and more powerful then those receivers "auto-eq".


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> By the way, there's a whole forum here dedicated to helping people do this (user level video calibration using tools such as calibration DVD discs).
> 
> 
> --Bob




Bob:


Thanks for the support. Just would hate to think that the money I spent on the AVM50 for the Gennum processor is wasted. You say that there is a whole forum in here dedicated to helping people with calibration. Can you point me to where this might be?


Thanks


----------



## LEVESQUE

Bluemark.


I also have the Oppo, and there is no comparison between that player and the Gennum processing. Bob is right. Something is wrong with your set-up or your configuration, and you're definitely in need for a good ISF calibration.


In my case, 480i from the Oppo to the D2 is better then the Oppo directly to my projector.


----------



## Hunter67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> Anthem Comparison Chart
> 
> 
> D2 ---- greater lip sync delay (up to 170ms)
> 
> Dual DSP engines
> 
> DTS ES (Discrete and Matrix)
> 
> 24/192 upsampling on all inputs
> 
> $2000 more MSRP



One correction here; the AVM series can decode DTS ES (Discrete and Matrix) what I think FilmMixer meant to post was the D1/2 can decode DTS 96/24 which the AVM series can not.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hunter67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One correction here; the AVM series can decode DTS ES (Discrete and Matrix) what I think FilmMixer meant to post was the D1/2 can decode DTS 96/24 which the AVM series can not.




Hunter... thanks for the correction.. fixed in the original post!


----------



## obie_fl

Finally got a chance to play with the 1.10 Live Video settings and have a question. Is it possible to make a custom resolution in interlaced mode? All I see is progressive resolutions. I assume 1080P30 has the same pixel clock as 1080i but how do I force interlaced? Overall I'm very impressed with the 1.10 video additions more of what I'm used to in a dedicated video processor.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

No problem. The forum is the "Display Calibration" forum here at AVS:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=139 


It is full of useful advice on what this is all about, what you are trying to achieve, and how to interpret various calibration test images such as are found on your calibration DVD.


Feel free to ask questions there. Just make sure you tell them you are new to all this.


------------------------------------------------------------------------


Here's a suggestion for you: First hook up the Oppo directly to your Toshiba and then use your calibration DVD that way to get familiar with the process in a simpler setup. The Oppo should be set for RGB (since your Toshiba has a DVI input), for 1080i HDMI output, and for a 16:9 TV. Leave the other Oppo imaging settings in their factory default position and just make adjustments using the Toshiba.


Select the "Movies" picture mode on the Toshiba. It is very important that you select this mode and then start making changes from there as the Toshiba makes some hidden settings in the background when you select other picture modes that you can not turn off or change. The Movies setting will likely appear too dark and soft to begin with but that's the one you want to use.


In the Toshiba, now turn off SVM, ALS, and Flesh Tone Correction. Set Temperature to the setting that produces a redder image. This will likely be labeled "Warm" even though it really, and confusingly, corresponds to a lower, i.e., cooler, "color temperature". Color temperature is the different bias of "white" that you see under different lighting conditions. You will likely be offered a bluer, a mid range, and a redder option. You want the one that is redder even though that will appear odd to start.


Close curtains and adjust the room lighting so that the room is dimly lit but not blacked out. Go to your favorite seating position for watching TV.


Following the instructions on the calibration DVD, now adjust Brightness, Contrast, Color, Tint, and Sharpness using only the controls on the Toshiba.


[By the way, which calibration DVD did you purchase?]


[Also, since your Toshiba is a CRT display, it is best to let it warm up for at least 20 minutes before you do calibration or critical viewing. After warming it up, adjust color convergence using the user controls on the Toshiba. After that you are ready to calibrate.]


Having completed that you should have a pretty good result playing your Oppo directly into your Toshiba at 1080i. This will give you a better idea of what a calibrated image should look like. What we are telling you is that you will get an even BETTER result once you complete things with the Anthem.


------------------------------------------------------------


OK, now find the test patterns on the calibration disc that are most similar to the test bar charts the Anthem generates all on its own. Get familiar with how they are supposed to look AFTER you have completed calibration with the Oppo directly connected to the Toshiba.


OK, now start over -- this time with the Oppo connected through the Anthem to the Toshiba.


The Oppo should be set to YCbCr, for HDMI output at 480i, and for a 16:9 TV. The other Oppo controls should still be in their factory default position.


[*****If any Oppo owners know that some Oppo control needs to be set differently for proper calibration, PLEASE CHIME IN HERE!******]


Once again select the "Movies" picture mode on the Toshiba. It is very important that you select this mode and then start making changes from there as the Toshiba makes some hidden settings in the background when you select other picture modes that you can not turn off or change.


The Toshiba SVM, ALS, and Flesh Tone should still be off and Temperature should be on the redder ("Warm") setting.


First set each of the the Toshiba's Brightness, Contrast, Color and Tint to the *MIDDLE* position of the available setting range. Turn Sharpness all the way down. I.e., start from here rather than from the Toshiba's factory default settings for "Movies" picture mode.


The Anthem should have all of its Oppo input settings at Factory default (mid range). Color space should be HDMI Auto (and RGB will also be checked but that's irrelevant). The Video Output settings should be RGB at 1920x1080i/60Hz.


Your room should still be darkened.


Now bring up the test charts that the Anthem generates all on its own (under the "7" key). Compare what you see with what you saw previously using the calibration DVD and adjust the Toshiba's levels as necessary. The "SMPTE" test chart will likely be your best bet for this. This is the one with different color bars split vertically into a long and short section as well as particular shades of gray along the bottom. Use the shades of gray to adjust Brightness and Contrast.


You can also view the menus under the "7" key to help adjust Sharpness by looking at vertical edges of the menu graphics.


You will use the blue gel filter from the calibration DVD to adjust Color and Tint as necessary, again using the Anthem's SMPTE chart.


Having made those adjustments, look at the other Anthem bar charts to check for all the bars being there and for uniform shading changes from bar to bar. With a light sensor you could do this precisely. Without one, trust your SMPTE chart settings and just check the other bar charts for obvious problems such as gray scale bars at either end not being distinguishable from the adjacent bar.


Now play the calibration DVD in the Oppo.


Leave your Toshiba settings alone, and try to complete the calibration using only the Anthem's input controls for the Oppo. It may very well be that only Brightness needs to be adjusted.


The net result is that the calibration test charts should now be showing on your Toshiba as good, or better, than what you had when you did it with the Oppo alone.


If not, go back to the step of using the Anthem internal bar charts and try again to refine your Toshiba settings. Then iterate back to the charts on the calibration DVD and further refine the Anthem's input settings for the Oppo.


Expect this to take some time until you find the "sweet spot" combo of settings that seems to work best.


------------------------------------------------------------------------


Now view some film scenes critically. Do you see problems?


Likely the answer is yes. It is rare person who gets calibration right the first time. It takes a while to develop your eye here. The trick is to write down your initial set of settings and then start making small changes while replaying scenes.


When you get a set of settings you like, set aside the calibration stuff and just enjoy. Keep an eye out for problems in scenes you view. After a day or two come back and do the calibration over again from scratch. It should go faster this time since you are more familiar with the process. Compare your latest settings to what you wrote down as your final set of original settings. Are there differences? If so, try splitting the difference.


This is how you continue to refine your settings.


A professional can do this faster because he has some test tools that help him hone in on the "sweet spot" more quickly and because he already has a trained eye. But you can learn to do this yourself if you take the time.


One piece of advice. Initially your calibrated settings may look too dark and too soft, and possibly even redder than you think is right. Don't panic. Trust the calibration DVD and live with the settings a while. You will likely discover your calibrated settings really are right as you get used to them.


---------------------------------------------------------------


Meanwhile for TV watching, the trick is to leave the Toshiba settings as you set them for the Oppo and to make any necessary adjustments using the Anthem input settings for your cable or sat box input. As a start, just copy the settings you used for the Oppo input into the cable or sat box input -- particularly if the cable or sat box is also connected via HDMI.


Hope this helps!

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Ijust got the Xbox hd-dvd player. Question? When the hd-dvd drive is set to output a 1080P signal I am not getting a signal source rec. via the D2? Any suggestions? I am getting a signal via 1080i or 720p. the D2 is hooked up via component.


-bob


----------



## yatchaks

When selecting the video output from the Anthem menu, I'm not understanding which of the three "YCbCr, Auto, or RGB" I should select, nor why I would select one over another. Is it dependent on the source or the type of TV used?


I own a 60" SXRD and am running HDMI from the Anthem to the TV.


I found an earlier post here asking a similar question, but am still not sure of the answer.


Mark


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ijust got the Xbox hd-dvd player. Question? When the hd-dvd drive is set to output a 1080P signal I am not getting a signal source rec. via the D2? Any suggestions? I am getting a signal via 1080i or 720p. the D2 is hooked up via component.
> 
> 
> -bob



I don't think most displays will accept a 1080p signal via component.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ijust got the Xbox hd-dvd player. Question? When the hd-dvd drive is set to output a 1080P signal I am not getting a signal source rec. via the D2? Any suggestions? I am getting a signal via 1080i or 720p. the D2 is hooked up via component.
> 
> 
> -bob



What is your TV? Does it accept 1080p over component?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yatchaks,

If your TV has an HDMI input (as opposed to DVI) then odds are things will work better if you select YCbCr as the output color format from the Anthem. It is possible you may need to make a setting in your TV as well to set it to receive YCbCr.


Auto may work as well, but it's best to set YCbCr in the Anthem and then find whatever setting change you need to make on the TV's input to get the colors right. YCbCr is the default color format for HDMI to HDMI connections.


If the Anthem and TV are mismatched then you will either get ghastly green or shocking pink images. The error is not subtle, so if the colors look reasonably right then you are OK and you can go on from there to adjust things with the TVs Color and Tint controls.


Simply put, only use RGB if you can't make it work any other way. For example, TVs with only a DVI input will likely require RGB.


While you are at it, make sure you have the video output color space in the Anthem set to HDTV. The math for converting from RGB to YCbCr is slightly different for SDTV and HDTV and this setting means the Anthem will do the right thing if you hook up any RGB sources.


EDITED TO ADD: Similarly, folks with HDTV displays requiring RGB should also set the video output color space to HDTV so that YCbCr sources are converted to RGB using the proper color math.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

M.B.M.F.

Go to the D2 Video Source Adjust menu for the XBOX input (i.e., select the XBOX input and then press and hold down the "7" key on the D2 remote) and then select the Info panel in that menu.


The Info panel will tell you what resolution of video input signal is being received and what is being sent out to the TV.


If both show as 1080p, then odds are your TV can't handle 1080p via component


If no video input is shown, then odds are the XBOX is not capable of 1080p output via component (only via HDMI).

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> M.B.M.F.
> 
> Go to the D2 Video Source Adjust menu for the XBOX input (i.e., select the XBOX input and then press and hold down the "7" key on the D2 remote) and then select the Info panel in that menu.
> 
> 
> The Info panel will tell you what resolution of video input signal is being received and what is being sent out to the TV.
> 
> 
> If both show as 1080p, then odds are your TV can't handle 1080p via component
> 
> 
> If no video input is shown, then odds are the XBOX is not capable of 1080p output via component (only via HDMI).
> 
> --Bob



Bob... the XBox 360 had an update to do 1080p over VGA and component a couple of weeks ago.... No HDMI on the thing..


I haven't looked yet, but I assume the D2 does 1080p out of component?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

It might be helpful if you can describe to us what you see wrong with the image through the Anthem from the Oppo compared to when the Oppo is directly connected to the TV.


For example:


1) If you say that the direct connect produces movies that seem to play smoothly but the connection through the Anthem results in a certain jerkiness in the movies -- particularly visible during pans across a scene -- then we'd know to tell you to turn on automatic detection of "film mode" in the Anthem input settings for the Oppo.


2) If you say that there is noise or blotchiness in the dark areas of scenes using the Anthem, then we'd know to tell you that you probably need to raise the black levels (Brightness) on your Toshiba and compensate by lowering them in the Anthem input for the Oppo.


There are other key symptoms that might suggest obvious fixes. Try to desscribe to us what you are seeing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Filmmixer,

Good question. I'm pretty sure the D2 does output 1080p/60Hz over Component but I haven't tried it and I'm away from my manual, etc.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer

It just checked the new manual for 1.1x.. the D2 will only pass 1080p over component if the Scaler is in Bypass... try that and see if you can get it to work..


Also I thought it interesting that the cover of the manual now says Statement D2 / Statement D1-HD.... maybe the upgrades are coming soon?


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is your TV? Does it accept 1080p over component?




infocus 7205. while it is not native 1080p it will accept 1080p24/30. The problem is that the d2 is not rec. the source.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob... the XBox 360 had an update to do 1080p over VGA and component a couple of weeks ago.... No HDMI on the thing..
> 
> 
> I haven't looked yet, but I assume the D2 does 1080p out of component?




got a link for that? I just turned on the hd-dvd player while online and it performed an automatic update... so I am assuming that was inlcuded?


----------



## bluemark81

Bob:


Thanks again for your very detailed help. You ask which Calibration DVD I bought. Long story, because I cannot find any in this City to purchase. Nobody seems to carry them anymore so I actually borrowed one called HDTV Calibration Wizard put out by Monster ISF Series. It appears to be a bit simplistic, so I've ordered the Digital Video Essentials. I should have it in a couple of weeks. I have printed out your instructions and will give it a whirl when the disk arrives. You mention the reds and I did find things to be redder even after using the disk I borrowed, but it does seem to grow on you or appear more natural the more I look at it.


Thanks again,


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> M.B.M.F.
> 
> Go to the D2 Video Source Adjust menu for the XBOX input (i.e., select the XBOX input and then press and hold down the "7" key on the D2 remote) and then select the Info panel in that menu.
> 
> 
> The Info panel will tell you what resolution of video input signal is being received and what is being sent out to the TV.
> 
> 
> If both show as 1080p, then odds are your TV can't handle 1080p via component
> 
> 
> If no video input is shown, then odds are the XBOX is not capable of 1080p output via component (only via HDMI).
> 
> --Bob



Bob, the info panel tells me that I have a 1080i or 720p source when I have the xbox set to output either of those sources. However, when I have the xbox set to output 1080p the info panel tells me that I do not have a source connected... the problem here is with the D2 not rec. the source. From what I have been told, the xbox, when outputting a 1080p source through its component outputs will convert that source to 1080i. Even if this is true, the D2 is not recognizing ANY signal.


----------



## Ed Weinman

Just a quick question:


Someone is selling the "D2" @ audiogon.com. However, in the discription, the seller indicates that he just got it back (origionally a D1) from Anthem with the D2 upconversion.


Is Anthem now upgrading the D1's to the D2? (I just looked at their site and could not find any indication of this.)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ed,

They are apparently real close -- they just updated the on-line manual for example -- but we've had no reports here as yet from anyone able to purchase or even schedule a D1 to D2 upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman

Ok, Bob (he said, real nervously!)...I'll wait...and wait...


Thanks, Ed.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a quick question:
> 
> 
> Someone is selling the "D2" @ audiogon.com. However, in the discription, the seller indicates that he just got it back (origionally a D1) from Anthem with the D2 upconversion.
> 
> 
> Is Anthem now upgrading the D1's to the D2? (I just looked at their site and could not find any indication of this.)



FYI - I have tried contacting this seller - THREE TIMES - asking some tough

questions about this.


SO FAR NOT A SINGLE RESPONSE from him.


You can see his ad is ALREADY rather ANGRY


----------



## Ed Weinman

Bob,


Where at anthemav.com ...I'd like to look at it...


Thanks, Ed.


----------



## bluemark81

Bob:


I think your advice has helped. One thing I want to make sure of is when I send the signal directly to the TV from the Oppo, the Oppo should be set for 480i and *not* 1080i correct? I assume we want to work with the same signal that will be fed into the Anthem which is 480i as opposed to having the Oppo process the signal and calibrating it from there.


Anyway, that is the way I tried doing it, and things are starting to take shape I think. After calibrating the DVD player, I switched over to the Satellite and the colors were way off, so I used the Anthem to bring them back.


One thing I have noticed though is that the Anthem doesn't seem to be saving my video settings all the time. I'm sure I've saved them each time I've made changes, but it is possible I haven't. I will have to keep an eye on this to make sure it is a slip on my part and not the Anthems.


Thanks...seems like I am getting closer. Possibly the DVE disk will help improve things in other areas as well.


How much are people turning up their detail enhancements?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ed,

Here ya go:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...ual/D2_OM.html 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

No, when the Oppo is directly connected to the Toshiba, set the Oppo to output RGB at HDMI 1080i just as I said.


The idea is to get the TV into the mode in which is displays 1080i -- which is what you will be using with the Anthem in the circuit -- so that you can learn what the calibration stuff looks like at 1080i.


Now the Oppo has an OK de-interlacer and scaler. The better stuff that the Anthem does won't really be visible when just viewing calibration charts.


So running the Oppo in its up-scaling mode -- getting it to generate 1080i from the 480 data on the calibration disc -- is the way to go.


Be sure to switch the Oppo back to YCbCr and 480i when connecting it through the Anthem.


There may be color space settings on your cable or satellite TV set top box that would be worth looking for as well. If the set top box is also hooked up via HDMI there really shouldn't be dramatic Color and Tint setting changes needed compared to the best settings for the Oppo. However if the set top box is hooked up via Component cables, then the best level settings for it could indeed be quite a bit different from those used in the Anthem input for the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

M.B.M.F.

In the Video Source Adjust menu for the XBOX input on the Anthem, go to the Scaler panel and select Bypass. Filmmixer found the info in the D2 manual that you need to bypass the scaler if you want to pass 1080p via Component input and output through the Anthem. You would still set Video Output on the Anthem to 1080p.


If that doesn't work it is possible that you don't yet have the upgrade he mentioned for your Xbox.


==============================================


EDITED TO ADD:


Also try setting Scaler Input to NONE in the Setup / Source Selection menu for the XBOX input. Be sure to also specify the appropriate Component input socket number in the Component Input entry further down that menu.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just had a chance to scan the new on-line manual at the Anthem site myself. They've added some explanatory comments here and there that go beyond the change pages that were included in the V1.10 install kit. So getting a copy of the new manual is probably wise.


One thing I noted is that the description of input level settings in the Video Adjust Menu states only that you will lose the ability to set Color and Tint if both the source and display are RGB (or extended RGB). This in fact already happened with the V1.06 release.


If this is accurate, then Brightness and Contrast should still be useful in this menu which means I won't have to chuck my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD player (which only sends RGB over HDMI) or Fujitsu (DVI input only, and thus RGB only) plasma. Yay!

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

Okay, after weeks of waiting I finally got my Elite Plasma. I have the PRO 1540HD and would like some help please. I'm confused about setting my D2 properly to ensure that I have the basics correct.


I have my TV connected via HDMI from the D2 to HDMI INPUT5 on my TV. How do I set my Video Output correctly:


Preferred: HDMI


Resolution AUTO


(setting to 1280x720p or 1366x768 causes my display to cut out and seems to blink not catching the signal even to display the OSD. My TV's native display is 1365x768 (yah, it's odd with the one pixel deviation...it's Pioneer...not that they're odd but it's the way the set is). What do I need to set this to?


Color Space HDTV


Data Format YCbCr 4:2:2


LetterBox Black


Sync Normal


Component2Out None


I also have the OPPO Digitial 970HD & a Sony non HDMI player so how do I set these up correctly?


Once I set these correctly, do I need to do anything else to ensure that it's setup all correctly? I'm not a videophile so please have patience as I really need to understand this to set it up correctly and get the most out of this high powered gear.......thanks ALL.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mstanic,

It's good that Auto resolution works for you. You can view the output resolution the Anthem is using by bringing up the Info panel in the Video Source Adjust menu. I.e., back out of the Setup menu, select any source that is playing, press and hold the "7" key on the Anthem remote to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu, and select the Info panel from that menu.


However you may find that the Auto resolution has simply picked a "safe" resolution like 480p -- which is not what you really want.


So that means you need to go back into the Setup/ Video Output menu and try again.


But first you need to go to your Pioneer manual and read up on what video it is willing to accept. Even though it is a 768p display, I believe you will find that it won't actually accept that resolution as an HDMI input.


And so you will probably have to use either of the HDTV standard resolutions of 720p or 1080i. This is not ideal since it means the Pioneer will do some scaling after the Anthem finishes its job, but that's what you'll probably have to do.


So switcht the anthem output resolution to one the Pioneer will accept. Pick the one closest to the Pioneer's native size.


If you get no image or an image that is shifted horizontally by a bunch (say 1/3 of the screen) then switch the HDMI Sync option in the Anthem Video Output menu to the other setting and try again -- your choices are Normal and Inverted.


Next check your Pioneer manual on signal format. Although YCbCr 4:2:2 will likely work, YCbCr 4:4:4 may be more to your Pioneer's liking.


OK, that's the output side. You can check it using the test bar patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu.


You will likely want to use Pure mode in your Pioneer. Adjust the blacks/whites/colors/sharpness settings in your Pioneer as necessary to make the Anthem's test bar patterns look right.


-----------------------------------------------------------------


Set the Oppo 970 to YCbCr output at HDMI 480i. Set it for a 16:9 TV. Leave it's other settings as factory default.


Since you have the Oppo there's no reason I can think of why you'd want to hook up the Sony as well, but if so, cable it with Component cables and set it to 480i output at 16:9 as well.


Using a calibration DVD such as Avia or Digital Video Essentials (DVE) adjust the Anthem input settings in the Video Adjust menu for each player according to the instructions in the calibration DVD. Leave the Pioneer's own levels set as determined above and make these changes in the Anthem alone.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> got a link for that? I just turned on the hd-dvd player while online and it performed an automatic update... so I am assuming that was inlcuded?



You needed the November 06 Update to run both the HD DVD drive and 1080p.. if you have one, you have both...


If you want more info, see XBox Nov 06 Dashboard Update


----------



## gostan

My attempts to upgrade to v1.10 keep getting hung up at Verifying Flash. Please Wait. All HDMi devices are disconnected. And I have followed the balance of the upgrade instructions. Not sure what to do now. I did save my previous settings.


Actually, the update appears to have taken effect. But I cannot seem to reload my saved settings. And, my D2 now states that I am running Statement D1HD v1.10 software. Strange............


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Stan,

Anthem support is working with a number of people in this thread who are having some sort of upgrade problem. It is possible they have identified some fix to try by now.


At this point the best advice I can give you is to return to V1.06. If you want to try V1.10 again, do what you did before but prior to installing the upgrade do a Restore Factory Defaults under V1.06. Also, in addition to disconnecting HDMI inputs and outputs, make sure all other devices cabled to the Anthem are completely powered off (e.g., disconnected from wall power).


Flash memory can be a bit finicky at times. Retrying the upgrade may be the only answer.


By the way, which portion of the upgrade is failing -- i.e., which set of flash memory?

--Bob


----------



## gostan

Bob,


See my edit above. My D2 now states that I am running D1HD v.1.10. I am not really sure which set of flash memory got hung-up. Has anybody who has upgraded now have their software version listed as I do now?


I will have to determine if the entire upgrade has been accomplished. And, if I can reload my previous settings - or I will have to reset manually.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Stan,

If any of the verification steps failed to complete normally I wouldn't trust it.


However all you may need to do is just try re-installing V1.10 on top of itself again.


Before you do that, do a Restore Factory Defaults in the V1.10 Setup / Save Restore Settings page. That's your best bet, at this point, of resetting the V1.10 stuff to a known state before you try the re-install.


---------------------------------------------------------------------


Also, if you are upgrading from the original V1.00 software, then you will likely need to re-enter the Setup / Video Output settings manually. There was a configuration change between V1.00 and V1.06 and a set of V1.00 saved settings won't restore that bit properly since some of the original output resolution setting options were eliminated. Your other saved settings however, should be restored just fine when you use the V1.10 Setup Editor to save them to the PC file and then restore them afterwards.

--bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My attempts to upgrade to v1.10 keep getting hung up at Verifying Flash. Please Wait. All HDMi devices are disconnected. And I have followed the balance of the upgrade instructions. Not sure what to do now. I did save my previous settings.
> 
> 
> Actually, the update appears to have taken effect. But I cannot seem to reload my saved settings. And, my D2 now states that I am running Statement D1HD v1.10 software. Strange............



Stan... when trying to upgrade from my MacPro running Parallels with my USB-Serial it would sometimes take over 15 minutes to pass the verifying screen.... On my PC, it wouldn't take long at all... but I have still not been able to finish the 1.10 upgrade... after it fails, the unit reports v1.10 through the settings editor, but I have no video to see onscreen display.. If I read your posts correctly, nothing failed, right? The installer didn't quit? I would take Bob's advice though, and restore defaults and reload the software...


Also, don't know if you saw my earlier post, but the new manual's front cover now says "Statement D2/Statement D1-HD" which we can assume is what the upgraded D1's will be dedignated as since they have stated that the upgrade will not include a new faceplate for the unit.


I am going to pass your info along to Nick... another clue in the mystery!


Bob.. I sent a very detailed list of PC setup to Nick this week and he says the software team is working on it... I expect a solution soon


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For those having V1.10 upgrade problems that appear to be failing in the video processor portions of the upgrade, I have a suggestion to try. This is based on the theory that the upgrade fails if the last good HDMI/HDCP connection was made at 1080i or 1080p (or similar higher resolution settings). I.e., I'm trying to find a common thread here between the various people having problems. Try this:


1) Re-install V1.06.


2) Restore Factory Defaults for V1.06. Do NOT restore any saved user settings.


3) Power off the Anthem and reconnect an HDMI 480i or 480p source device (such as the Oppo DVD player) and your HDMI display. Power on the Anthem, your display and the source device.


4) Go to the Setup / Video Output screen and manually set the Anthem to output HDMI 720p (i.e., the 720 version HDTV broadcast resolution). This resolution should work for all HDTV displays except for some older CRT based HDTV-ready TVs. Toggle Sync as necessary to get your display working.


5) Back out of Setup and select your HDMI input device. Play something so that the HDMI connection gets established and is working (video playing on the display). Using the "7" key, bring up the Video Adjust Menu. Back out of that menu. Press the Select key to bring up its first on screen status message. Back out of that. The idea here is to get each portion of the Anthem video and OSD overlays to last be in a state of having worked at 720p.


6) Now power off the Anthem, your display, and your HDMI source device. Disconnect the HDMI cables.


7) Now try installing the V1.10 upgrade.


This is just a guess, but I think it is worth a try.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

gostan I am having a problem myself updating to 1.10. Nick has told me he is working on it also.


Bob has made some great posts of ideas but I cant get it to work.


Nick told me to hold on till they figure something out.


I uploaded 1.06 for AVM-50 for anybody who wants it.

http://rapidshare.com/files/4842021/...stall.zip.html 

*Credit for file goes to yatchaks*


----------



## gostan

My software version was the original shipped with my D2 early last April. I believe it was the original 1.01 version. My upgrade yesterday was attempted with an Intel Core 2 Duo IMac and Parallels software. Quite a change in those Macs since System 7 and the days of my IICi and Duo 230. Nothing failed in the install. I have video and all of the new multiple tv and other inputs. The install states that it is programming the eepprom and then it goes to verifying flash please wait. And I wait and I wait.....


Bob, I will try some of your suggestions and get back today. I may take my wife's windows laptop and see if that provides a solution to the setup issues. But, it is only USB1, so I thought that my chances were better with my mac/parallels setup.


----------



## gostan

I am not able to go back to the AVM50 1.06 software. Now that my D2 shows up named as a D1 and is running 1.10, it is not recognized in the AVM 50 1.06 software posted by Yatchaks and Budeone. I am going to attempt to reload 1.10 and see if I can get past the first Verifying Flash....Please Wait screen before our Sunday company arrives at noon and the Patriots and Bears arrive at 4:15 PM today. Seriously, I will give it 20-30 minutes and see if any progress is made.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bluemark81,
> 
> It might be helpful if you can describe to us what you see wrong with the image through the Anthem from the Oppo compared to when the Oppo is directly connected to the TV.
> 
> 
> For example:
> 
> 
> 1) If you say that the direct connect produces movies that seem to play smoothly but the connection through the Anthem results in a certain jerkiness in the movies -- particularly visible during pans across a scene -- then we'd know to tell you to turn on automatic detection of "film mode" in the Anthem input settings for the Oppo.
> 
> 
> 2) If you say that there is noise or blotchiness in the dark areas of scenes using the Anthem, then we'd know to tell you that you probably need to raise the black levels (Brightness) on your Toshiba and compensate by lowering them in the Anthem input for the Oppo.
> 
> 
> There are other key symptoms that might suggest obvious fixes. Try to desscribe to us what you are seeing.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Jerkiness is not the issue. I do have my auto detect turned on.


I thought everything was coming along quite well until I watched The Davinci Code last night which has all kinds of dark scenes. These almost appeared to have a faded, washed out look and almost gave the appearance that the darks were painted on. Blotchiness as you say may be the term to describe it. However, I tried playing some dark scenes from a couple of other movies including Hellboy and Star Wars - Revenge of the Sith, and the dark scenes in those movies appeared to be good or very good. The blacks were a nice deep black, but I didn't lose subtlties like textures.


Have you or anyone else watched the Davinci Code? Is this possibly just an issue with the movie?


Colors and bright scenes are now very good.


I don't know if it would help, but I could tell you what all my settings are on TV/Oppo/Anthem.


----------



## budeone

We watched it last week. I saw nothing different from what was expected.


The pic was great, the movie was so-so


----------



## MStanic

Hi Bob...thanks a lot for the help. Okay, I tried some of the stuff you said and here's where I'm at..........


For Video Setup on the D2, I was able to set as follows (rest same as above):


Resolution: 1280x720p/60


Data Format: YCbCr 4:4:4


Sync: Inverted


On the Oppo, you mention changing it to YCbCr output at HDMI 480i. Under Video Setup of the Oppo, I was able to Change the Color Space from RGB to YCbCr 4:4:4 but I see nowhere to specify 480i. When playing something on the Oppo, the D2 shows 480p and the On Screen of the D2 (King Kong playing) shows:


Input Status


Video Source: HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4

Signal Type: 720x480/p59.94Hz

Audio Source: NA


Output Status


Signal Type: 1280x720p/60Hz

Frame Rate: 60.00Hz

Line Rate: 45000.00Hz


Have I got this set right?


King Kong looks great but the black bars are still fairly large. Should I be seeing them or, if seeing them, very little? My LetterBox settting is set to Black on the D2. Setting this to darker settings, will it harm the TV? Particularly, for break in period.


I'm using Pure Mode on the display and the setting DNICE posted on this forum for the Elites.


Thanks again Bob.........your help is much appreciated.....and thanks to anybody else who might respond/assist me also.


----------



## gostan

From not so good to better to awful. I finally got the 1.10 update to go through the first Verifying Flash. Then it went into FPGA Configurator Programming which failed. (errror code = oxfff). I ran the 1.10 update again and it goes through Epprom programming and into the Verifying Flash and then I receive a message that the Statement D2 code requires update. Communication Error - Statement D2 Not Programmed.


I now have no hdmi capabilities and am in the process of setting up component and digital cabling until there is a solution for this situation. I assume that Nick will have to send me some underlying file to reprogram/update the D2.


----------



## obie_fl

King Kong is 2.35:1 so it should have fairly large bars compared to a 1.85:1 movie.


Bluemark - Just watched Davinci Code Friday night it was fine.


----------



## obie_fl

Gostan did you try the windows laptop? I think the vast majority of the update failures here are Mac and or USB related. I'm lucky as I have an old laptop with good ole RS232 and have never had a problem.


----------



## randman

I agree. Gostan, if you are using a USB/Serial adapter, I suggest trying a PC or laptop with a real serial port. If you don't have one, consider getting a PCI card with a real serial port.


----------



## bluemark81

MStanic:


On your Oppo, to change outputs, you must first press stop. Then press the HDMI button repeatedly until you get 480i.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gostan did you try the windows laptop? I think the vast majority of the update failures here are Mac and or USB related. I'm lucky as I have an old laptop with good ole RS232 and have never had a problem.



The windows laptop does not have rs232, just usb 1, and I had no luck with that one at all. The mac with usb 2 via parallels had a better pairing communication wise - something just happened during the first install in the initial flash programming upgrade. Today it worked fine, but the initial problem yesterday has caused all of these issues.


As of the moment, with the last upgrade having an FPGA configurator Programming failure, I have no scaler, hdmi or component video. I have run video via s-video to get ready for company and the Patriots-Bears game.


I will need the underying D2 video programming files for reinstallation. I may need to find an older windows laptop with rs232 at a used computer store. Although I see no reason why this cannot be done under parallels-mac. I am running a full version of CAd on it as well as some other programs, with no issues at all.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Stan,

Don't load the AVM-50 version of V1.06 onto your D2. You need the D2 version.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

MStanic,

While watching a movie on the Oppo, press and hold the "7" key on the Anthem remote to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu.


Go to the Crop Input panel and check that HDMI Auto Detect is checked. If not scroll down to it and press Select on the remote.


Now scroll up again and go to the Scale Output panel and check that Anamorphic is checked.


Use the Back button to exit these menus.


In the Oppo, check that it is set for a 16:9 TV.


The last thing you need to do is to check the stretch/zoom modes on your Pioneer plasma to find the one that makes circles look like circles all the way across the screen. A calibration DVD helps here, or just watch car tires in a scene where a car crosses the screen.


If all this is set right then the geometry of your movie watching will be right for all wide screen movies.


Understand that many feature films are actually "wider than wide screen" and so you will get black bars top and bottom to pad the movie out to fill the 16:9 shape of your plasma. This is normal. Distorting the image to get rid of them will either cause you to lose parts of the picture off the side or will cause circles to look like ovals across the screen or concentrated to the sides of the screen (depending on the stretch/zoom mode you select).


If you are using the break in settings for the Pioneer then some movie watching with black letter box bars isn't going to hurt, but try to watch stuff that fills the screen (such as HDTV broadcasts) for most of your watching time for the first 100 hours or so just to be safe.


EDITED TO ADD: Do please change the Oppo to HDMI 480i output as per Bluemark81's instructions a few posts up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

It sounds like you are making progress. It wouldn't hurt to post your level settings (Brightness, Contrast, Color, Tint, Sharpness) and we'll see, although I'm not sure I can recall what should be best for the Toshiba.


You will find this easier to sort out when you get your calibration DVD.


But for now, when watching Da Vinci, try lowering Brightness on the Anthem input menu a few steps and see if that improves things for you. Now put it back and try lowering it on the Toshiba. Which works better? As long as you make small changes like this and keep track of what your are doing, you can refine your settings as you go.


With the calibration DVD you will be able to see what such changes are doing to the standardized charts. One thing you will discover is that display technology means there isn't always an obvious answer to what setting is right.


For example, CRT based displays usually show what is called "black float". The apparent black levels setting actually raises and lowers according to the average brightness of a given scene. Most commercial DVDs have extended range of near black data called "Blacker Than Black" data so that if the black levels are set too high, or float up, there isn't a hard cutoff of detail. But this BTB data isn't really intended to be seen. It should all merge into one uniform "Black". For CRT based displays, this usually means that the "best" Brightness setting is a bit lower than would be the case for a non-CRT based display.


From what you are seeing, I would guess Da Vinci has poor quality BTB data and that your black levels are too high so that you are seeing it when you shouldn't. The other movies have good BTB data, but you still should consider dropping your black levels since you are not really supposed to see it.


Again, the calibration DVD will provide a direct way to see just how your black level settings are interacting with such data.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Stan,
> 
> Don't load the AVM-50 version of V1.06 onto your D2. You need the D2 version.
> 
> --Bob



Can somebody email the D2 version to me at [email protected] ?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can somebody email the D2 version to me at [email protected] ?




stan.. files on the way...


BTW.. I cannot get the unit to update from Parallels form my Mac Book... I am also trying again and bumped up the speed of the setial port to 115200... we'll see if that helps..



EDIT... failed again... I tried Bob's suggestion of playing a 480i source and outputing the D2 at 480i... I can install 1.06 fine with my pc with baud set at 115200, but 1.10 is a no go... failes on GF9350 FLASH 1 programming failed (error code=0x33394647).. I am sure Nick and his team will fix this promptly... Back to 1.06, which is pretty rocking on its own


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Filmmixer,

Sigh. So much for that guess.


I think Anthem is going to have to rev the installer program itself to be a bit more robust.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

FilmMixer That is the same error message I get.


this is what he wanted to know from me


We're working on finding

out why some computers cannot load v1.10 all of a sudden. This is what we

need to know in such a case:


1. microprocessor: single or multicore? (note that multicore and

multiprocessor are not the same thing)


2. processing: 32-bit or 64-bit?


3. Windows: version, service pack, most recent update?


4. USB to serial adapter: yes or no?


5. Is other software that using serial ports / USB connectors?


6. Cable length?


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The windows laptop does not have rs232, just usb 1, and I had no luck with that one at all. The mac with usb 2 via parallels had a better pairing communication wise - something just happened during the first install in the initial flash programming upgrade. Today it worked fine, but the initial problem yesterday has caused all of these issues.
> 
> 
> As of the moment, with the last upgrade having an FPGA configurator Programming failure, I have no scaler, hdmi or component video. I have run video via s-video to get ready for company and the Patriots-Bears game.
> 
> 
> I will need the underying D2 video programming files for reinstallation. I may need to find an older windows laptop with rs232 at a used computer store. Although I see no reason why this cannot be done under parallels-mac. I am running a full version of CAd on it as well as some other programs, with no issues at all.



gostan - back when I first tried to upgrade to 1.06 with a USB/serial adapter, I was getting the "FPGA configurator programming failed" error. I got this error with 1.06 and 1.04. I also had the problem where the HDMI output stopped working. I then switched to a new laptop (less than 6 months old) that fortunately has a built-in serial adapter, and I was able to upgrade to 1.06 on the very first try. See my post dated "07-16-06, 12:46 PM" for details. I haven't tried upgrading to 1.10 yet though. But, the lesson I learned is: if you're having trouble upgrading, try a laptop or PC with a real serial adapter.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

If anyone can recommend a good Anthem dealer in SoCal, please send me a PM!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If anyone can recommend a good Anthem dealer in SoCal, please send me a PM!




You gonna roll that big dice? Say goodbye to that kidney!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mstanic,

Oh by the way, the Letter / Pillar Box color setting in the Anthem has nothing to do with the color of the black bars you are seeing above and below King Kong.


The output from the DVD player is at most a 16:9 wide image. The content coming off the DVD, even if it is "anamorphically enhanced for 16:9 TVs", is also at most a 16:9 shape.


That means that if you are watching a "wider than wide screen" movie, then there are black bars ALREADY IN THE CONTENT ON THE DVD fleshing out that movie top and bottom to fill the 16:9 shape.


-----------------------------------------------------------


There are cases where the Anthem may need to generate padding on the fly. For example, if you are watching SDTV at 480i, and if you have set the Anthem to Letter/Pillar Box in the Scale Output menu for your TV viewing input, then the Anthem will generate Pillar Box Bars on either side off the SDTV to pad it out left and right to fill your 16:9 screen without distorting the image. And those bars will be colored as you have specified. I suggest you keep the setting at Black since you will likely find other settings too distracting.


However, during the break in period, I suggest you watch SDTV with the Anthem set to Anamorphic. This will stretch (distort) the image left and right to fill the screen.


-----------------------------------------------------------


One other point. For any source sending 480i or 480p to your Anthem -- such as the Oppo DVD player or a TV set top box sending SDTV at 480i -- set the source so that 4:3 content fills the screen left and right -- i.e., set the source to *NOT* generate pillar box bars. Although this appears to be stretching the image, in fact it means the source is doing nothing. The pixels are just being interpreted as "fatter" by the Anthem and the TV.


Now if you prefer to watch such content undistorted, set the *ANTHEM* to Letter / Pillar Box and let THE ANTHEM generate the pillar box bars.


The reason is that a 480i or 480p signal has limited horizontal resolution. If you set the source to generate the pillar box bars, that chews up a significant amount of the horizontal resolution. But if you send the signal unmolested to the Anthem and let the Anthem generate the pillar box bars, then the Anthem will do that in the scaler at the high resolution it is sending to your TV. This preserves a significant amount of horizontal resolution of the original source content -- particularly color resolution.


If a source happens to be sending high def 4:3 content to your Anthem (e.g. an HDTV station that happens to be showing a 4:3 program with pillar box bars generated by the station) then it is fine for the source to generate the pillar box bars since the HD signal has plenty of horizontal resolution to contain the bars and still preserve the original horizontal resolution of the 4:3 content.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You gonna roll that big dice? Say goodbye to that kidney!



Want to buy a nice Parasound Halo C2 pre/pro in very good condition?


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> gostan - back when I first tried to upgrade to 1.06 with a USB/serial adapter, I was getting the "FPGA configurator programming failed" error. I got this error with 1.06 and 1.04. I also had the problem where the HDMI output stopped working. I then switched to a new laptop (less than 6 months old) that fortunately has a built-in serial adapter, and I was able to upgrade to 1.06 on the very first try. See my post dated "07-16-06, 12:46 PM" for details. I haven't tried upgrading to 1.10 yet though. But, the lesson I learned is: if you're having trouble upgrading, try a laptop or PC with a real serial adapter.



Randman, that is at least encouraging for me. But, since my software was so old (1.1) I could not save those settings and go back to it, and my D2 now shows up as a D1HD v. 1.10. But my error code in FPGA Configurarotor is error code = oxff which is a different one than Filmixer and you. I am waiting to obtain a version of 1.06 and see if I can set the D2 back to that software version. But I cannot do so until later today. Filmixer was going to try to email it to me. Can't wait. I am a glutton for punishment.


Mac users, are you running Intel Core 2 Duo chips of just Core 2? And which version of Wiindows? I am running Core 2 duo with XP Home upgraded.


----------



## gostan

Thanks to JerryR (and FilmMixer-just found it in my junk folder) for sending me D2 v1.06 software. I am now getting hung up at the cannot connect to OKI boot loader command right after programming fpga configurator please wait. But, I am now showing Statement D2 v1.06 software. But still no video /hdmi with on screen button from remote. I am guessing that this is where the video/scaler hdmi switching software loads and my mac/parallels usb/serial connection does not appear to be fast enough to complete the software install.


----------



## chas

gostan...


I upgraded to 1.10 without incident using an original MacBook (2G Core Duo), Boot Camp, and a KeySpan USB-serial adapter.


I avoided Parallels because of many reports of USB flakiness. I can't find the link right now, but I have read of one person who used a USB-serial adapter successfully after loading the Mac drivers in OS X as well as the Windows drivers in Parallels--might be worth a try if you haven't already done so. Good luck.


C.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> gostan...
> 
> 
> I upgraded to 1.10 without incident using an original MacBook (2G Core Duo), Boot Camp, and a KeySpan USB-serial adapter.
> 
> 
> I avoided Parallels because of many reports of USB flakiness. I can't find the link right now, but I have read of one person who used a USB-serial adapter successfully after loading the Mac drivers in OS X as well as the Windows drivers in Parallels--might be worth a try if you haven't already done so. Good luck.
> 
> 
> C.



I opted for Parallels since my full version of Windows XP is SP1. BootCamp requires full version of SP2.


I tried a different serial to usb adapter with a windows laptop and finally got 1.06 to load in full. I may try 1.10 with it later. And I did. Now I have full working v. 1.10, but it shows up as Statement D1HD v1.10 instead of Statement D2 v1.10 in the select/info screen.


Thanks to all for your assistance.


----------



## abc999

Just got the PS3 last night. I was watching Kingdom of Heaven with DTS HD5.1 audio via HDMI . What mode should I use with the AVM50? There are 3 choices that come up, 6 channel input dolby digital ex, neo6 plus thx and none . I should use "none" so that there will be no additional processing right?


----------



## obie_fl

Is the PS-3 outputtinig PCM or bitstream? I'd do neo 6 to get the rear channels if bitstream. DTS HD is just a fancy way of saying full bitrate lossy it is really not a new codec.


----------



## gostan

Nick @ Anthem just let me know that v1.11 is now up and that it should fix some PC issues and my D2 showing up as D1HD in the status/info window. They are working on some of the Mac emulation issues. Anthem continues to provide great customer service.


----------



## budeone

Well, It does not work with mine.. It is worse.. It does not even find my Anthem.


I did all the normal resets and I reinstalled 1.07 once again.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, It does not work with mine.. It is worse.. It does not even find my Anthem.
> 
> 
> I did all the normal resets and I reinstalled 1.07 once again.



Are you using a serial to usb cable? And if so, what kind?


----------



## budeone

Yes, I have tried two different cables and NO update works at all.. It just lets me install 1.07 in and thats it.


----------



## gostan

Was one of them the Keyspan. It worked fine for me with my wife's half-baked Compaq laptop (that I hate to use-but did the trick). The radio shack serial-usb adpater would not work with the Compaq.


----------



## budeone

I have a radio shack and a trendnet.. I find it starage that only one update works


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a radio shack and a trendnet.. I find it starage that only one update works



It is definitely the cable. The radio shack worked for me for 1.06, but not for 1.10. I don't know why, but that is what happened. Most folks here appear to be using the Keyspan. http://www.keyspan.com/products/usb/USA19HS/ It worked like a charm for me with 1.10.


----------



## abc999

I had no problem updating my AVM50 to 1.10. I just used a serial cable on my old desktop computer. I learned my lesson using a USB to serial cable, everything went haywire when I used it


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is the PS-3 outputtinig PCM or bitstream? I'd do neo 6 to get the rear channels if bitstream. DTS HD is just a fancy way of saying full bitrate lossy it is really not a new codec.



I think its LPCM because the PS3 is doing the decoding.


----------



## randman

I used a Keyspan, which worked for saving settings but not for firmware upgrades. I had to use a laptop with a built-in serial port.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think its LPCM because the PS3 is doing the decoding.



If I'm not mistaken none of the Blu-ray players, PS-3 included will decode the full DTS HD stream at this time only the core 1.5Mbps. That being the case I would try bitstream and let the Anthem do the DTS decoding.


----------



## MStanic

I upgraded my D2 to 1.11, from 1.06, and it went okay.


Is using the Lvie Video Settings program the only way to set my TV's custom settings? The OSD allows me to pick CUSTOM, on the D2, but does not allow me to enter ANY custom settings.


Has anybody used the Live Video Setting program. If so, how does it work and how do you use (fields exactly) to input my monitor's settings. I have the Elite PRO 1540HD and need to know what settings I need.


----------



## gostan

I tried to upgrade from 1.10 to 1.11 with the same windows laptop and serial-usb cable with no luck at all. It recognized my D1, but would not begin the upgrade at all.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

MStanic,

I don't think Live Video Settings is going to help you. Your display won't accept it's native (physical) resolution as an input resolution via HDMI, right? None of the resolution and timing adjustments in Live Video Settings is going to alter that.


The special adjustments available via Live Video Settings are intended for dealing with displays that have unusual timing requirements, and are also intended for types of specialized calibration setup that can really only be done with the aid of pro tools such as a proper light sensor. That's why they aren't in the user menus in the D2 -- i.e., they are intended more for professional installers to play with.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had no problem updating my AVM50 to 1.10. I just used a serial cable on my old desktop computer. I learned my lesson using a USB to serial cable, everything went haywire when I used it



This problem with USB to Serial Converters is not UNIQUE to Anthem.


I'm a DVDO VP50 [Video Processor] owner and the same thing happens trying

to update the FPGA logic in the VP50. Those who use a real serial port do not

have the problem. DVDO has gotten so BURNT by this - they now supply a TESTED

USB to Serial Adapter they KNOW works and they supply their own Windows

XP drivers which behave properly.


I'll be getting my D2 next week - So I'll have a VP50 for sale but I'm sure no one

here will need one [GRIN]!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drhankz,

Welcome to the club!


Here's hoping your initial installation is problem (and hum) free....

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I spoke with a Anthem dealer today by telephone. The guy was nice enough and seemed somewhat eager to help, but I really wasn't all that impressed with his knowledge (he had some unusual things to say about problems with 1080p projectors for example, but I digress).


Anyway, one of the things that he said he wanted me to be aware of was that the D2 and AVM50's video processor does NOT remember different video settings for each seperate hdmi connection. This doesn't sound right to me. Is it?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz,
> 
> Welcome to the club!
> 
> 
> Here's hoping your initial installation is problem (and hum) free....
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob:


I did travel 4 hours on Sunday to an Anthem Dealer in MAINE who could

demo a D2 WITHOUT HUM [GRIN]!


So I'm in [GRIN]!


It must have been - maybe the very first units and then only a few

that had the HUM.


I did verify with Anthem Tech Support on Monday - there were some but

the problem is long gone - SO I ORDERED ONE [GRIN]!


And just in case mine doens't come with the latest software - I KEEP TWO

PCs around with real serial ports [GRIN]!


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tried to upgrade from 1.10 to 1.11 with the same windows laptop and serial-usb cable with no luck at all. It recognized my D1, but would not begin the upgrade at all.




This is really strange for sure.. Did you let Nick know?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

The D2 has one HDMI output and one set of HDMI video output settings. All source video is transcoded, scaled, and frame rate converted to that.


Starting with the V1.10 software, the D2 now also has a Frame Lock optional feature for any given input which overrides the frame rate you specify in the video output settings and instead tracks the frame rate of the incoming source video. Whether or not that is set, transcoding and scaling to the single set of specified video output settings still happens.


The D2 also has per-input HDMI settings for, among others, color space, aspect ratio sensing, and for whether or not the D2 presents itself to the source as a "repeater" or as a "tv".


Also the V1.10 software adds multiple overlaid "inputs" for key devices. So you can specify settings for DVD1, DVD2, DVD3, and DVD4 that are all accessible via the DVD input button on the remote.


---------------------------------------------------


Whether or not the source is HDMI, the D2 remembers other video adjustment settings (e.g., scaling, cropping, video level settings, etc.) for each input. It also remembers audio parameter settings per the combination of input and audio processing mode.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> The D2 has one HDMI output and one set of HDMI video output settings. All source video is transcoded, scaled, and frame rate converted to that.



Thanks Bob - Great Explanation for Rob and a NEW OWNER Waiting for FEDex!


----------



## MStanic

Bob...thanks again. Wow you really need a PHD to get this stuff figured out.


Anthem told me, on the phone today, to use the Custom setting to get my monitor's native resolution entered correctly. If I can't enter it, and it doesn't work, what am I achieving by setting it to 1280 x 768 (my native diaply is listed at 1365 x 768 but only 1366 and 1360 x 768 are available on the D2 ... none work for me).


I'll keep trying to understand this but this is just crazy fun.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> The D2 has one HDMI output and one set of HDMI video output settings. All source video is transcoded, scaled, and frame rate converted to that.
> 
> 
> Starting with the V1.10 software, the D2 now also has a Frame Lock optional feature for any given input which overrides the frame rate you specify in the video output settings and instead tracks the frame rate of the incoming source video. Whether or not that is set, transcoding and scaling to the single set of specified video output settings still happens.
> 
> 
> The D2 also has per-input HDMI settings for, among others, color space, aspect ratio sensing, and for whether or not the D2 presents itself to the source as a "repeater" or as a "tv".
> 
> 
> Also the V1.10 software adds multiple overlaid "inputs" for key devices. So you can specify settings for DVD1, DVD2, DVD3, and DVD4 that are all accessible via the DVD input button on the remote.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Whether or not the source is HDMI, the D2 remembers other video adjustment settings (e.g., scaling, cropping, video level settings, etc.) for each input. It also remembers audio parameter settings per the combination of input and audio processing mode.
> 
> --Bob




Excellent! Thanks Bob, that makes much more sense. I think I see why he was saying what he was saying, but it appears he just didn't understand exactly how to use the unit for seperate settings (such as DVD1, DVD2 etc).


Unfortunately this dealer doesnt have the AVM50 or D2 in stock, so I can't demo it. I may have to take up a fellow avser's offer to check out his D2!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mstanic,

This is not that tough. First you have to get a basic grasp of what a scaler does. It is just math.


The scaler takes one resolution and produces another resolution by kind of averaging the real input pixels as necesary to invent imaginary output pixels. As you can imagine, the closer the input already happens to be to the desired output, the less work the scaler has to do and the less chance there is for it to screw up in ways you will see.


-----------------------------------------------------


Your display has its own scaler. It has to for normal users who will cheerfully feed it SDTV (480i), de-interlaced SDTV (480p), and the two HDTV broadcast resolutions (720p and 1080i), none of which happen to match the display's physical and fixed pixel count. The users expect each of these sources to produce a pleasing image that fills the screen, and that's what the scaler does -- by inventing an imaginary video stream that happens to match its "native" pixel resolution.


However scalers cost money, and so it is common that they won't take JUST ANYTHING as an input resolution. Including a scaler that just takes the "standard" resolutions is, of course, the minimum the display maunfacturer can get away with. Beyond that all bets are off.


Well he probably also wants to include standard European inputs which come in at different frame rates than in the US (50 Hz vs 60 Hz), and he might also want to include the magic "native" resolution since that's pretty crucial for getting good quality imaging if you use the display as a computer monitor. But the fact that the "native" resolution is also what folks with fancy external scalers want to use is well down the list of important things to fatten the manufacturer's wallet.


-----------------------------------------------------------------


So you would LIKE your Anthem to send the "native" resolution to your display, but your display won't let you do that. It's scaler won't accept that resolution as a valid input.


So instead you set the Anthem to produce a resolution the display WILL accept that happens to be as close as possible to its "native" resolution. The idea is to let the Anthem do the most difficult part of the scaling job and leave the display itself with very little to do after that.


------------------------------------------------------------------


Unfortunately this too often turns out to be the wrong choice. That's because when displays take "unusual" resolutions like this -- i.e., not a standard TV resolution and ALSO not the display's "native" resolution -- they often do odd things with it. For example, they may throw away a significant number of pixels around the edges, or they may display the resolution with an annoyingly large black border around it -- pixels you can't light up at that resolution.


There are other possible gotchas as well, but we are getting kind of technical now. The bottom line is that your "best" resolution to feed the display may be something a little further afield from its true "native" resolution. In fact it may be that the best result, all things considered, comes from sending it a "standard" resolution like 1080i.


Your best bet is to go over to the experts in the flat panel display forum and tell them you have a very good external scaler and would like to get their recommendations for the best resolution to use that your panel will accept, since it won't accept its true, "native" resolution.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------


So suppose they tell you that a standard resolution like 720p or 1080i is best. Why bother? Well suppose you pick 1080i. The Anthem will still be de-interlacing and scaling 480i SDTV and DVD discs to that 1080i and it will be doing a very good job of it. It will also scale 720p HDTV to 1080i very well.


Now your plasma will take the 1080i and scale it again to its native resolution, but the Anthem has already solved some of the tough problems -- like de-interlacing 480i, so the net result will still likely be a dramatic improvement.


Again, you probably want to set the Anthem to the closest resolution to the display's "native" resolution that the display will actually accept. That gives you maximum advantage from the Anthem. But check in the flat panel forum for any gotchas.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

The custom resolutions are throwing me for a loop too. I'm trying to get my hands around how changing the total horizontal size and holding the pixel count steady changes the frame rate. Some of the pre-canned resolutions don't quite add up mathematically. Still not sure how you would do a custom interlaced resolution either. I've put all the resolutions in a spreadsheet trying to comprehend them. I'm thinking about trying to do a [email protected] and or 72. Am I the only CRT guy?


----------



## Nathan_R

Off-topic question: Is the AVM-40 out now? I see one on eBay, but I don't remember reading an announcement from Anthem that it's out, so I'm hesitant to believe this is for real (especially considering the picture).


On-topic dumb comment: I am sooooooooooooo happy to be back in the Anthem family. If I could sleep with my AVM-50, I would....maybe.


----------



## budeone

Please NO pics


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I completed my update to D2 V1.11 today. Here are some notes.


* Upgraded from V1.06


* Used a Compaq laptop (rather old) running Windows 2000 (fully patched) and a serial to serial straight-through Radio Shack cable.


* Prepared to upgrade by using V1.10 Setup Editor (still called that in the V1.11 install kit) to save current D2 settings to a PC file. Noted that "Save Non-installer Settings" WAS checked (see below).


* Then did a Restore to Factory Defaults on the D2 to set V1.06 defaults.


* Powered off other devices but left HDMI cables connected. For the Comcast HD-DVR, powering it off involves disconnecting it from wall power.


* Then ran the V1.11 upgrade install. It took just under 15 minutes and completed without funnies, faults or failures.


* Then ran V1.10 Setup Editor again to restore my saved settings from the PC file to the D2. That too apparently worked just fine.


------------------------------------------------------


* The first thing I discovered upon powering everything back up again was that the save and restore settings via Setup Editor had not actually saved my Video Source Adjust menu settings (under the "7" key) despite the fact that Save Non-installer Settings had been checked on. This was mildly annoying but they were pretty easy to re-enter manually.


* Also discovered that my setting for front panel display brightness (Low) had been forgotten.


* Meanwhile, all the more critical, and hard to reconstruct, settings in the Setup menu were, in fact, all apparently restored properly. However, upon checking the "new" input source setup entries, I was surprised to discover some unusual settings in DVD2 and DVD3. DVD1 contained my saved and restored settings from V1.06, and DVD4 was properly "disabled". The other additional input slots for TV, etc., were all properly "disabled".


* Audio setup and calibration as done under V1.06 were unaffected by this upgrade. Everything appears to be working just peachy.


* I then explored Video setup and calibration using my settings from V1.06 and the default Gamma Correction Off and Frame Lock Off new settings. Everything appears to be working fine.


* In particular, despite the release notes, but in accord with the new User Manual, Brightness and Contrast input settings still do work under V1.11 for my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi input even though it is an RGB input to an RGB display. I didn't try it, but I presume Color and Tint is still disabled as it has been since V1.06. This latter is not a problem for me.


----------------------------------------------------------------


* I then did some experiments in refining the Video calibration. It appears to me that the V1.11 software makes it easier to get proper levels set without low level gray noise issues on my Fujitsu plasma (which I still think are due to a sort of "beat frequency" conflict between the dithering algorithm in the D2 and the one in the Fujitsu). But that may be just because I've now become familiar with the tricks involved. The SMPTE test chart generated by the Anthem is, of course, a big help. The result so far looks very VERY good. It's hard to say if it looks BETTER than V1.06, but it certainly looks at least as good. I'm watching some fine HDTV as I type this and it is just the cat's meow.


* Can't tell yet if source input HDMI handshaking is working better, but I did have one case where the HDMI to DVI connection to my plasma got screwed up when attempting to enter the Setup menu. The fix for this is to power the D2 off and then back on again, and then to restore the proper, previously saved settings within the plasma since it returns to defaults when it gets a signal it doesn't recognize. I was hoping this one would go away with V1.11. We'll see how often it happens. I may need to upgrade my HDMI to DVI cable.


------------------------------------------------------------------


* I fired up Live Settings Editor just long enough to make sure it was working and to discover it was more complicated than I wanted to get involved with tonight.


* By the way, if you haven't looked yet, the V1.11 install kit also comes with some new documentation on RS-232 control of the D2.


------------------------------------------------------------------


* I also verified that V1.11 still does not recognize the S-video user interface from the Velodyne DD-15 subwoofer. However, I noticed that if you switch from another S-video source to the Velodyne that you get a brief glimpse of the video the Velodyne is sending out before the D2 gives up and decides it can't recognize that input signal. I.e., it *ALMOST* works through the scaler. As before if you switch your TV to an S-video input from the Anthem the Velodyne S-video passes (unprocessed) through the Anthem to the TV just fine.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

I called and asked for a replacement unit today. My dealer says he will call Anthem and see what he can do.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

With V1.11, the remote shortcut for Edge Cropping On/Off is no longer under the "Mode" key. It has apparently been replaced by shortcuts for Frame Lock On/Off and for Gamma Correction choices.


Does anyone know of a new shortcut for Edge Cropping On/Off under some other key?


I know I could do this by using up one of the new, overlaid "TV" inputs, but I kind of got used to the remote shortcut.


------------------------------------------------------------------------


The Info panel in the menus under the "7" key has added status indications for Film Mode (and for Frame Lock). But so far, I've not found a situation where the Film Mode indication turns on.

--Bob


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Off-topic question: Is the AVM-40 out now? I see one on eBay, but I don't remember reading an announcement from Anthem that it's out, so I'm hesitant to believe this is for real (especially considering the picture).
> 
> 
> On-topic dumb comment: I am sooooooooooooo happy to be back in the Anthem family. If I could sleep with my AVM-50, I would....maybe.



The 40 is available now in limited quantities, more will become available as production ramps up.


----------



## rudolpht

Under 1.10 & 1.11 you may find that default digital setting for sound may need to be reset, e.g., my HDMI audio default needed to be reset for HD-DVD (Tosiba) from digital optical.


I assume this relates to the increase of devices per button, e.g., TV1, TV2, etc.

Tim


----------



## randman

I've got some questions regarding saving settings prior to firmware upgrade:


1. Does the settings editor only save the settings associated with the "Setup" menu ("Sub/LFE Setup" in the remote) and not the video settings?


2. To save the video settings ("7" in the remote), is it necessary to use the Live Video Editor software?


3. The setup menu has "Save User Settings" and "Save Installer Settings". Do these only save the Setup settings or do they also save the video settings?


4. If I use the "Save User Settings" or "Save Installer Settings", is it necessary to use the PC software to save my settings?


I've made a number of changes to the setup menu and video settings menu, and don't want to lose the changes. I supposse I can write everything down, but that takes quite a bit of time....


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Randman,

I was surprised to find that V1.10 Setup Editor apparently did NOT save and restore my settings under the "7" key. I don't know if Live Settings Editor handles it differently. Fortunately, my settings under the "7" key were relatively easy to reenter manually.


The Save User Settings and Save Installer Settings functions in the Setup menu definitely DO save and restore settings under the "7" key, as well as all settings made in the Setup menu itself. These two sets of saved settings are identical in function. Just think of them as two different memories you can use.


However the Save User Settings and Save Installer Settings do NOT save the so called "temporary" on the fly settings such as the ability to raise or lower subwoofer volume using the Sub/LFE button on the remote. In fact one easy way to clear all such temporary settings is to Save User Settings, Restore Factory Defaults, and then Restore Saved User Settings.

--Bob


----------



## markalston

Hi all,

After having many problems getting my D2 to accept 768p from my HTPC I have stumbled upon an interesting glitch.


If I boot up with a working 720p configuration all is fine.


If I switch to a 480p or 768p mode then it works but if I switch the D2 inputs to any other input and then switch back I get no picture. The status will say [email protected] NP or some such but always NP.


If I don't switch away but bring up the "7" menu and go to info it will tell me

Video Source: No Input

Input Type: 640x480/p60hz (or something like that)

Audio Source: NA


If I hit status on the front panel it still shows the old input resolution of 1280x720 @60 with NP


all the while it is displaying the picture and playing the sound.


Again, if I switch away and come back I get no picture at all.


I am using a DVI-HDMI cable from my video card running MythTV on linux.


I am currently outputing using component output to a regular SD TV.


This is with software ver 1.10.


Very odd.


Mark


----------



## yatchaks

I'm using an Intel Mac Mini connected to the AVM50/MCA50 via SPDIF. I use the Mini exclusively for music (lossless) listening.


From a little research, it seems folks recommend an external DAC connected to the Mini using balanced outs for the best sound quality. Is this still the case when using a higher grade of equipment (Anthem)?


I understand this question belongs in the HTPC forum, but you people are much more familiar with the Anthem product, and may have a better answer.


Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mark,

There was a previous posting in this thread from someone who was having trouble getting his HTPC working with the Anthem due to some problem regarding the handshake of supported resolutions. In his case his HTPC needed to boot up in one resolution and then switch to another and it wasn't working.


Apparently he found a work around with a gadget stuck in the signal path that faked the necessary ID information. I don't have the details but you should check back rather a few pages in this thread for that exchange -- or do a search.


In addition, Anthem tecnical support may, by now, have more info on this problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

yatchaks,

If you are using SPDIF (digital audio) connection I can't see any point in adding an external DAC. The DAC in the Anthem should work just peachy.

--Bob


----------



## markalston




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 
> [cut]
> 
> Apparently he found a work around with a gadget stuck in the signal path that faked the necessary ID information.
> 
> --Bob



Yep the DVI Detective. Actually that is what has made any connection at all work. Before I installed that trying to get any resolution over DVI was sketchy at best. With the detective in place I now have very reliable 720p going but can't get 768p to work reliably (at least on boot).


Just thought that it was weird that the D2 would obviously be scaling the input and was definately receiving the right resolution but would say that it had no picture/input. I think that this info might help debug the problems with switching away and back losing picture.


I probabably just need a better/cleaner modeline though.


I'll send this info to Anthem.


Mark


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Save User Settings and Save Installer Settings functions in the Setup menu definitely DO save and restore settings under the "7" key, as well as all settings made in the Setup menu itself. These two sets of saved settings are identical in function. Just think of them as two different memories you can use.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - thanks. I guess before applying the firmware upgrade I should do a "Save User Settings". Then, after applying the firmware upgrade, I should just do a restore.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

randman,

I don't know whether or not the Saved User Settings will survive the upgrade.


Now Anthem insists that all of your settings will survive if you just do the upgrade with the settings in place. Personally I prefer to Restore Factory Defaults prior to the upgrade just to be sure the unit is in a "known state" prior to the upgrade.


But if you don't do a Restore Factory Defaults, and if Anthem is correct, then all your setting should be in place WITHOUT having to restore them from either the Saved User Settings in Setup or from a file you have saved to the PC.


I suggest you Save User Settings, and also save a file to the PC, and I suppose also jot things down, and then do the upgrade without a Restore Factory Defaults and see what survives. At the worst you can restore Setup's settings from your saved PC file and then manually enter the rest.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mark,

The D2's status displays have a number of interesting peculiarities -- differences between the different displays -- that I think may be do to the system setting values at different times in the handshake process.


Anthem certainly should fix this, but it is probably pretty low priority for them.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> yatchaks,
> 
> If you are using SPDIF (digital audio) connection I can't see any point in adding an external DAC. The DAC in the Anthem should work just peachy.
> 
> --Bob



He has an AVM50. I thought that the AVM50 DACs do not do 24/192 upsampling. If so, there may be better DAC choices out there, albeit, more expensive ones. Although, I would likely be more concerned about the stereo sound with a CDP source, rather than an Apple Mini lossless source.


----------



## bluemark81

*ADC/Audio Output?*


Can someone explain to me how this works? I have my 6-ch source set to be my DVD player when playing SACD's. So, according to the manual, I've switched the cabling for rears and surrounds from my AVM to my amp so my rear channels are the ones that play when I play a 5.1 SACD rather than the surround speakers. Now, am I understanding the manual correctly that the AVM will magically send signals to the proper channels when playing any 5.1 movie soundtrack? I notice when I use the speaker level calibration, when set up this way that the surround speakers and the rear speakers are reversed, which is what I would expect from switching the AVM channel outputs as instructed. Am I missing something here?


----------



## FilmMixer

Just a note... I finally got a PCI-Serial card for my pc today, and 1.10 installed without a hitch...


It does seem that the Mac virtualization and / or USB>Serial cables are the big issues for upgrades... I know for some it is the only solution (it was for me), but for less than $15 on ebay I got the card and cable and my upgrade troubles are over.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a note... I finally got a PCI-Serial card for my pc today, and 1.10 installed without a hitch...
> 
> 
> It does seem that the Mac virtualization and / or USB>Serial cables are the big issues for upgrades... I know for some it is the only solution (it was for me), but for less than $15 on ebay I got the card and cable and my upgrade troubles are over.



Good Move Marc - cheap way for insurance against problems.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> He has an AVM50. I thought that the AVM50 DACs do not do 24/192 upsampling. If so, there may be better DAC choices out there, albeit, more expensive ones. Although, I would likely be more concerned about the stereo sound with a CDP source, rather than an Apple Mini lossless source.



I'm pretty sure that the AVM 40 and 50 do 24/192 upsampling on the two front main channels only, while the D2 does the upsampling on all channels.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anyone else seeing improved HDTV with V1.11?


I don't have a clue what's going on here, but I seem to be getting more dynamic range in both grays and colors with V1.11 when viewing HDTV from my Comcast HD/DVR (via HDMI in and then HDMI to DVI to my plasma). My current calibration setup is not that different from the one I used in V1.06.


SDTV viewing from the same Comcast box and DVD viewing from my Pioneer does not seem to have shown any such dramatic improvement. It still looks very very good, but not significantly different than the quality I achieved with V1.06.


But there seems to have been -- somehow -- a positive change that affects my HDTV viewing. Has there been a change in the way the D2 handles YCbCr 4:4:4 input when it detects the HDTV color space coming in?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

gostan,

Unless he is using the analog RCA or balanced inputs in Analog Direct mode (no processing) it really doesn't make much difference if the external DAC is better than the Anthem's internal DAC that would otherwise be used on the digital audio inputs.


That's because if the Anthem is going to do any processing of that analog audio input it will first convert the incoming analog audio to digital and then eventually convert it back to analog. And that will be done at the DSP and DAC precision internal to the Anthem.


So it is likely better -- if you want the Anthem to process the audio -- to send it the original digital audio signal in the first place. [Upsampling, if any, of the digital input signal is not subject to the same sorts of concerns.] Then you only have the final Anthem output DAC in the audio path.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

FilmMixer,

Congrats on finally getting past the upgrade barrier.


Given your particular expertise, I'll be interested to hear if you notice any changes in the audio after this upgrade. So far I haven't spotted any audio feature or quality changes.

--Bob


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FilmMixer,
> 
> Congrats on finally getting past the upgrade barrier.
> 
> 
> Given your particular expertise, I'll be interested to hear if you notice any changes in the audio after this upgrade. So far I haven't spotted any audio feature or quality changes.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, Are you complaining about the audio quality of the D2









I don't think there's much, if any, or needed for that matter, room for audio quality improvement in the D2. But of course we (me) are always hoping for a magic bullet or vail lifted............ between "us" and the music.

The hopefully (soon) upcoming Anthem Room EQ upgrade for the D2 should put this unit, the D2, at the TOP of any heap.... on this planet at least.


Anyway I just wanted to thank Bob for all his posts and info within those post that helps keep us educated about the D2 and actually keeps this D2 thread alive!


dc


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

I haven't used this Swap Surrounds and Rears feature myself but I believe you have it correct.


When the Anthem is set to the 6 channel input, and when you have also not selected a mode to have the Anthem generate Rear information from the incoming 6 channel information, then Rears and Surrounds remain switched due to you having also physically switched switched the cables from the Anthem to your power amp. Thus the Surround speakers will be silent and the Rear speakers will play the two surround channels coming in on your 6 channel input -- the idea being that this is a better way to play SACD music for example.


When the Anthem is set to a mode to generate Rear information from the incoming 6 channel information, or when you switch to any other input, the Swap function activates and essentially reverses what you did by physically exchanging the wires to your power amp. Thus the incoming surround info goes to the side Surround speakers and the Rear speakers are silent unless the Anthem has been set to a mode to generate audio for them.


Now when you enter the Setup / Speaker Level Calibration menu, it is not clear what the Anthem will do. I believe it may vary according to the last input you selected before going in there, but it may also be that it drives those outputs directly without regard to your setting of this Swap function. I.e., the tone generator in the calibration menu may be independent of the Swap logic. In any event it seems reasonable that you should just calibrate the level for whichever speaker is playing and assume Anthem will sort it out internally.


The other issue in my mind is how to set the speaker placement distances. Despite the fact that the level calibration may play Rear Left when it says it is playing Surround Left, I believe the distance for the Rear Left speaker should still be entered in the Rear Left line of the speaker distance table (as opposed to putting that distance in the Surround Left line). And of course the distance between the Rear speakers should be entered as the distance between the real Rear speakers and not the side Surround speakers.


Frankly I think it is a bug that the speaker level calibration doesn't correctly identify the speaker it is playing when you have set this Swap function and also switched the cables as instructed. You might want to confirm all this with Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DreamCatcher,

No complaints. All is bliss.


I'm just asking one of the experts here to report if he discovers any "undocumented changes" in the way audio works under the new software.

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk

Can someone explain the enhancements in the D2 1.11 upgrade? I am reading some horror stories regarding the loss of settings. Also is the Oppo still the best player for the scaler for SACD/DVDA and SD movies. I also have the HD-A1 and Panny Blu-Ray.


Thanks,


Lou


----------



## LEVESQUE

Horror stories?


It takes 2 minutes to write your settings on paper before performing a firmware upgrade if you are afraid to loose anything.


In my case, my settings are always there after each firmware upgrade since v1.00. I don't even unplug any HDMI cables before proceding. I just press update, and 10 minutes later my D2 is fully operational, and my settings are still there. It was like that with 1.06, 1.10 and now 1.11.


But just to be sure, I always write down and save my settings before any firmware upgrade. I'm doing the same thing before each calibration of my projector. I write down everything in case something goes wrong.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FilmMixer,
> 
> Congrats on finally getting past the upgrade barrier.
> 
> 
> Given your particular expertise, I'll be interested to hear if you notice any changes in the audio after this upgrade. So far I haven't spotted any audio feature or quality changes.
> 
> --Bob



Bob.. you are the expert around here










I haven't done a lot of listening since the upgrade, but nothing I did hear denoted any changes...


My D2 sounds the same as it ever has.. better than almost anything out there







And I don't know what the "almost anything" is...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A while back, we had a poster here, I forget who, with the following symptom:


* His on screen Setup menu display was unstable. After things warmed up it developed a flicker or even disappeared. When things were cooler it was stable. Accessing Setup functions via the front panel display worked without issue.


We never found a solution for him, and I believe he either swapped out his Anthem or switched to a different product.


Upon re-reading the new Anthem V1.1x manual today I ran across the following that I hadn't seen before. This is in the discussion of Setup / Displays Timeout.


"Main / Z2 OS Color:

If the On-Screen display of the Setup Menu appears unstable, it could be that your display is not synchronizing to the blue (factory default) background color. You can change the background color to one that your display can synchronize to -- black and magenta are also available."


If that poster is still here and struggling with this, or if any new reader has such a symptom, try changing this. This might also be helpful if folks find that their display is having trouble locking in the all blue default screen the Anthem generates if it detects no current input video signal.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------


In a possibly related matter, it occurs to me that this just might explain why the Anthem's scaler processing is not able to recognize the user interface S-video coming from the Velodyne DD series subwoofers! The Velodyne produces white text on an all blue background. I don't know if there is a way to change the Velodyne background color.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Lou,

Right now the Oppo 970 (*NOT* the 971!) appears to be the consensus favorite player for the formats you asked about when used with the D2 or AVM-50. Among many other things it does well, it can pass SACD audio at full quality over the HDMI connection to the Anthem.


PLEASE NOTE: However you need to temporarily set the Oppo to 1080i video output resolution when you do SACD like that due to limitations in the HDMI spec. HDMI specifies that available audio bandwidth is only a proportion of the currently used video bandwidth. If you attempt SACD over HDMI at, say 480i video resolution you will only get 2 channels of audio.


I currently use a Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD player, but if I were in the market for a new standard-def player today, I would have no hesitation about getting the Oppo 970 to connect to my Anthem D2.


Frankly, however, I'm waiting for HD-DVD and Blue Ray players to finally stop screwing around with customers and include a standard def DVD and audio formats section that is done right. The upcoming Pioneer Blue Ray player is rumored to be such a device, but, also frankly, I'm skeptical. Right now I do not believe the current crop of HD-DVD and Blue Ray players are ready for prime time. They are "early adopter" products, and will likely be replaced with significantly improved products within the next year or so.


But it would be hard to imagine a new standard def player that improves on the Oppo 970 in any significant way when connected to the Anthem D2 or AVM-50.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Many people have done the Anthem upgrade without issue at this point. It's really nothing to be scared about. It is wise to note down your settings anyway just in case you accidentally change something yourself.

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Horror stories?
> 
> 
> It takes 2 minutes to write your settings on paper before performing a firmware upgrade if you are afraid to loose anything.
> 
> 
> In my case, my settings are always there after each firmware upgrade since v1.00. I don't even unplug any HDMI cables before proceding. I just press update, and 10 minutes later my D2 is fully operational, and my settings are still there. It was like that with 1.06, 1.10 and now 1.11.
> 
> 
> But just to be sure, I always write down and save my settings before any firmware upgrade. I'm doing the same thing before each calibration of my projector. I write down everything in case something goes wrong.



So eventhough you save the settings to file, you may not be able to re-import those settings? I have a file with the extension .a20, I should be able to re-import those settings. But you are correct, it would take a few minutes to jot them all down.


Question 2:


I am reading about the avi79 player, is that better suited for the D2 than the Oppo, is it Panny or Pioneer? I had a Denon DVD-5910 but sold it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Given what you will have the Anthem doing for you, I see no advantage in using the Pioneer Elite DV-79avi over the Oppo 970. You really only need a quality DVD transport -- nothing fancier than that. You will be paying for quality features in the Pioneer 79avi that you simply won't be using.


The Denon 5910 has some very special video noise reduction circuitry that actually does a better job than the Anthem in dealing with DVDs that have a lot of noise, such as DVD transfers of old TV shows. The consensus view is that the Anthem does about half as good a job at cleaning up such stuff. Personally I don't see the point of paying the high price for the Denon just to get this one advantage however. But then I don't watch a lot of poor quality DVDs.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------


See my notes on my V1.11 upgrade in the last page or so of this thread for more info on saving and restoring the various different kinds of settings in the Anthem.


Again, this is not something to be scared about. Writing down settings is a useful backup, but the most difficult to recreate stuff seems to save and restore just fine.

--Bob


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lou,
> 
> Right now the Oppo 970 (*NOT* the 971!) appears to be the consensus favorite player for the formats you asked about when used with the D2 or AVM-50. Among many other things it does well, it can pass SACD audio at full quality over the HDMI connection to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> PLEASE NOTE: However you need to temporarily set the Oppo to 1080i video output resolution when you do SACD like that due to limitations in the HDMI spec. HDMI specifies that available audio bandwidth is only a proportion of the currently used video bandwidth. If you attempt SACD over HDMI at, say 480i video resolution you will only get 2 channels of audio.
> 
> 
> I currently use a Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD player, but if were in the market for a new standard-def player today, I would have no hesitation about getting the Oppo 970.
> 
> 
> Frankly, however, I'm waiting for HD-DVD and Blue Ray players to finally stop screwing around with customers and include a standard def DVD and audio formats section that is done right. The upcoming Pioneer Blue Ray player is rumored to be such a device, but, also frankly, I'm skeptical. Right now I do not believe the current crop of HD-DVD and Blue Ray players are ready for prime time. They are "early adopter" products, and will likely be replaced with significantly improved products within the next year or so.
> 
> 
> But it would be hard to imagine a new standard def player that improves on the Oppo 970 in any significant way.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Many people have done the Anthem upgrade without issue at this point. It's really nothing to be scared about. It is wise to note down your settings anyway just in case you accidentally change something yourself.
> 
> --Bob



Yes the OPPO 970 seems to be THE SD-DVD player to mate with the D2 if you want,

SACD/DVDA capability via HDMI.... sounds pretty darn good to my ears.

480i output via HDMI.... looks pretty darn good to my eyes.

It is the ONLY player on the market, that I'm aware of, regardless of price, that gives you all of the above.


On a different note, I'm trying to get into the Anthem Setup Editor and had a question right off the bat, why when I go to "Auto Detect" does it turn my D2 off?


dc


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DreamCatcher,

Setup Editor assumes you are going to be saving Anthem settings to a PC file or restoring them from a PC file. Setup Editor does this with the Anthem powered on at the rear panel switch but turned off (i.e., in a kind of standby mode) as far as the front panel, remote, and processing is concerned.


So Setup Editor will put the Anthem in standby as soon as it detects it.


----------------------------------------------------------------


If you want to make "live" changes to Anthem settings, then use the other program, Live Settings Editor.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Out of curiosity, what's wrong with the Oppo 971 compared to the 970?


----------



## budeone

I was told today that there is a new version of the 1.11 I dont know if its still called 1.11 or not.


It has a new loader in it and when I get it and install it I will let you all know how it works.


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DreamCatcher,
> 
> Setup Editor assumes you are going to be saving Anthem settings to a PC file or restoring them from a PC file. Setup Editor does this with the Anthem powered on at the rear panel switch but turned off (i.e., in a kind of standby mode) as far as the front panel, remote, and processing is concerned.
> 
> 
> So Setup Editor will put the Anthem in standby as soon as it detects it.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you want to make "live" changes to Anthem settings, then use the other program, Live Settings Editor.
> 
> --Bob



I'm so confused









The only other program I have is called "Live Video Settings Editor"

Sounds like I'm missing a program?


dc


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, what's wrong with the Oppo 971 compared to the 970?



The 971 doesn't do 480i over HDMI.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, what's wrong with the Oppo 971 compared to the 970?



971 doesn't do SACD or have an HDMI output, over which you can get 480i with the 970.... for $150, the 970 is a steal










Rob... I am still looking for that dealer for ya...


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question 2:
> 
> 
> I am reading about the avi79 player, is that better suited for the D2 than the Oppo, is it Panny or Pioneer? I had a Denon DVD-5910 but sold it.




I had the Pio 79, the Denon 5910ci with native 1080p output... the Oppo paired with the D2 is just as good picture wise... the audio on the Pio and Denon were better with MC DVD-A and SACD, but it isn't a huge difference.


----------



## obie_fl

Did Oppo ever get gapless SACD playback going? Still have my 79AVi.


----------



## obie_fl

DreamCatcher - If you are trying to do live audio changes I don't think you can only live video adjustments are supported. AFAIK there are only two programs, the Anthem Setup Editor for all the blue menu items and the Live Video Settings Editor.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DreamCatcher,

The V1.11 install kit you downloaded should contain three programs.


There is the V1.11 Installer program itself for installing the new software. Part of the install will happen with the Anthem in standby and part will happen with the Anthem "powered up". The Installer does this all automatically for you.


Then there is the V1.10 Setup Editor which does batch saving and restoring of settings between the Anthem and a PC file. You can adjust the settings in the program before sending them to the Anthem (not something you would normally need to do) but no changes take effect until you actually transfer the entire batch of settings to the Anthem. The transfers happen with the Anthem in standby (i.e., it looks powered off). Setup Editor will work and will save settings to a PC file even if you have not yet upgraded your Anthem and thus it is still running old software. That's why it is the one recommended to use for saving and restoring settings during the upgrade process itself.


Finally there is the V1.10 Live Video Settings Editor which you can use to control video features of the Anthem and make "on the fly" changes while the Anthem is live and processing audio and video for you. There are a few changes (gamma correction) that won't happen live as you adjust them, but only when you tell the Live Video Settings Editor to pass over the current set of those adjustments. Live Video Settings Editor is intended for use AFTER you have upgraded your Anthem software. If you use it with older Anthem software (particularly the original V1.00 software) it may not work.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------


The V1.11 install kit also comes with new, enhanced documentation of the RS-232 (i.e., serial port) control protocol for controlling the Anthem. Custom installers can use this to control the Anthem from a computer in more elaborate ways.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

The 970 is the newer product. There is an upgrade to the 971 called the 981 that is supposedly shipping real soon now. In addition to what the others have said about the 971 lacking HDMI (the 981 will have it) in the 971 you are paying for a fancier scaling solution that of course you will not use with the Anthem.


The 970 has a simple scaler -- not a problem for Anthem users of course since you won't use it. The 971 has a Faroudja scaler which works well *UNLESS* you have a display which is prone to exhibiting the "macro blocking" artifact. But the key problem for 971 owners is that you can't get 480i digital video output.


Again, the 970 is newer and cheaper and is the correct one to get for Anthem D2 and AVM-50 owners. Right now that appears likely to be true EVEN AFTER the new 981 starts shipping.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Or put another way you want to Gennumize before you Faroudja up the video coming out of the MPEG decoder.










Rob if you still have your 59AVi you have everything you need except you will still need to use analog for SACD.


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> The 970 is the newer product. There is an upgrade to the 971 called the 981 that is supposedly shipping real soon now. In addition to what the others have said about the 971 lacking HDMI (the 981 will have it) in the 971 you are paying for a fancier scaling solution that of course you will not use with the Anthem.
> 
> 
> The 970 has a simple scaler -- not a problem for Anthem users of course since you won't use it. The 971 has a Faroudja scaler which works well *UNLESS* you have a display which is prone to exhibiting the "macro blocking" artifact. But the key problem for 971 owners is that you can't get 480i digital video output.
> 
> 
> Again, the 970 is newer and cheaper and is the correct one to get for Anthem D2 and AVM-50 owners. Right now that appears likely to be true EVEN AFTER the new 981 starts shipping.
> 
> --Bob



I'm thinking of picking up the 981 to go with my 970.

Use the 970 for DVDs via HDMI

Use the 981 for MC DVDA & SACD via HDMI

I'll be curious to see/hear if the 981 improves MC SACD/DVDA via HDMI capabilities of the 970,

not that I'm complaining










Bob,

I'm sure I'll have more "issues" as I get into the Live Video Settings Editor and Setup Editor programs but thanks for your help.... so far.

I haven't upgrade my D2 with v1.11 as of yet but will later today or this weekend.

I'm presently on v1.10.


dc


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DreamCatcher,

I don't see how the 981 could possibly improve over the 970 for HDMI digital audio output of DVDA and SACD -- except of course for finally fixing the SACD gapless playback bug. Since the only work the player is doing is decoding one digital format to another, there's no place for quality enhancements to be made. It's not like comparing one quality of Digital to Analog Converter (DAC) with another for example.


If the 981 is still more expensive than the 970, right now I can't think of ANY reason the 981 would be preferably for us Anthem owners.

--Bob


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DreamCatcher,
> 
> I don't see how the 981 could possibly improve over the 970 for HDMI digital audio output of DVDA and SACD -- except of course for finally fixing the SACD gapless playback bug. Since the only work the player is doing is decoding one digital format to another, there's no place for quality enhancements to be made. It's not like comparing one quality of Digital to Analog Converter (DAC) with another for example.
> 
> 
> If the 981 is still more expensive than the 970, right now I can't think of ANY reason the 981 would be preferably for us Anthem owners.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Exactly what is this "gapless playback bug"?


thanks


dc


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just had an exchange with Velodyne tech support about my new, wild-eyed theory that the blue background is the culprit in why the Anthem D2 and AVM-50 scalers won't recognize the S-video coming in from the Velodyne DD series subwoofers and SMS-1 bass EQ product.


There is currently no way to change that background color. They've told me they are adding it to the list for a future software upgrade.


However, they suggested I might get the same result -- i.e., better synchronization -- by switching the Velodyne to PAL/SECAM output mode instead of NTSC. I believe the Anthem should have no problem with accepting PAL/SECAM, and any minor display artifacts will be irrelevant considering the rare use of this Velodyne user interface. So if this really does change the sync processing in the Anthem scaler input, then that might, just might, do the trick.


I don't expect I'll have a chance to try this for a while, but I thought I'd pass it along in case any other Velodyne owners here are willing to take a stab at it. The Velodyne manual describes how to switch it to PAL/SECAM output, and how to switch it back to NTSC if that doesn't work.


I'm not sure that can be done without resetting other Velodyne settings, so double check that or be sure you have your Velodyne settings written down.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DreamCatcher,

The original Oppo 970 software forced a short gap of muted audio each time the SACD playback switched tracks. Although this works fine for much music, for some music the playback should be gapless -- seamlessly continuing as one track ends and the next track begins.


As I understand it, Oppo has beta 970 software that fixes this, but I'm not sure that is generally available yet.

--Bob


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Exactly what is this "gapless playback bug"?
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> dc



DC,


Pink Floyd's Dark side of the moon is a great example of gapless playback between tracks.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Thanks for all the responses on the Oppo guys!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Or put another way you want to Gennumize before you Faroudja up the video coming out of the MPEG decoder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rob if you still have your 59AVi you have everything you need except you will still need to use analog for SACD.



That's exactly what I understood, and frankly is the only reason I would consider selling the 59avi in favor of the Oppo (one big reason for upgrading is to get rid of the maze of connections I am getting, which is only getting worse with HD-DVD and Blu-ray).


What I don't understand is why the Oppo is able to do SACD over HDMI but the 59avi isn't?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The 59avi is only an HDMI V1.0 device -- it was one of the first shipping HDMI devices.


HDMI V1.0 hardware can't support that audio bandwidth.

--Bob


----------



## lotia

Hello all,

I'm still in the process of deciding what PrePro to get and the Anthem D2 seems to be on the top of my list since it seems to offer a lot of bang for the buck. I have listened to it but only briefly and not with speakers that have appealed to me.


Reading the posts about HDMI, I am a bit discouraged since my main usage will be with a Linux HTPC running MythTV. I've said in a previous post on this thread that I'm going to have the HTPC output stuff in native resolution and have the D2 do the processing. Markalston's post suggests that changing resolutions makes the D2 unhappy, is it only the resolution you are trying Markalston. Have you tried to toggle between 720p and 1080i on the HTPC?


TIA

Ali


----------



## Bob Pariseau

**** Correct boosting of incoming LFE PCM signal ****


Q of Banditz was kind enough to direct my attention to this tutorial post in another forum here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=748147 


For those using, say, the Oppo 970 for SACD over HDMI, and for those using HD-DVD or Blue Ray players for multi-channel, high res PCM over HDMI for the new high res audio formats, what is known about how the Anthem D2 and AVM-50 deal with this issue of needing to boost or not boost the incoming PCM "LFE" signal before bass steering happens?


What special settings, if any, are needed in the D2 and AVM-50 to get this right?


We need to clear this up and get some working configurations documented here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ali,

I believe Anthem is very interested in getting HTPC working right, and that it is now higher on their radar now that they've pretty much eliminated the problems with typical consumer electronics HDMI devices.


You might want to discuss this with Anthem tech support directly. And in any event you should have an understanding with your dealer that lets you return the Anthem if, for some reason, this can not be made to work for you.


We've only had a handful of HTPC posters here, but we may have more lurking who have not yet posted.

--Bob


----------



## sfield

If you put a Gefen DVI detective between the HTPC and the Anthem, you should be fine.

I've tried the following resolutions from the HTPC to the Anthem, all work as expected. And that includes switching the resolutions on a live system.


1080i

1080p @60hz

1080p @59.94hz

1080p @24.00hz

1080p @23.976 hz

720p @60hz

1366x768 @60


Currently, I have the HTPC set to 1080p @23.976, and the Anthem is set for Framelock=auto/enabled. The anthem outputs at the proper frequency in this case, to a Sony Pearl projector for smooth film playback.


There is still a problem with the 1080p @24 output mode in the Anthem though, where you are feeding the Anthem a 1080i input signal (in my case, from a Toshiba HD-A1). Nick at Anthem provided custom resolution timings, which are work better than the built in 24p mode, but the video still goes into a slow-motion glitch every few minutes or so (and the source HD-A1 component needs to be paused/resumed to get the video back in sync). Anthem is still investigating this.







> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lotia* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I'm still in the process of deciding what PrePro to get and the Anthem D2 seems to be on the top of my list since it seems to offer a lot of bang for the buck. I have listened to it but only briefly and not with speakers that have appealed to me.
> 
> 
> Reading the posts about HDMI, I am a bit discouraged since my main usage will be with a Linux HTPC running MythTV. I've said in a previous post on this thread that I'm going to have the HTPC output stuff in native resolution and have the D2 do the processing. Markalston's post suggests that changing resolutions makes the D2 unhappy, is it only the resolution you are trying Markalston. Have you tried to toggle between 720p and 1080i on the HTPC?
> 
> 
> TIA
> 
> Ali


----------



## bluemark81

*Any Canadians with Bell's 9200 or US DishNet 622DVR with the AVM50?*


1. I am not able to use my HDMI cable from my satellite receiver to my AVM and get a 5.1 signal. I have to also use an optical cable to get the 5.1. If I just use HDMI, my AVM senses the signal as a 2 ch source.


2. The other thing I notice is that the AVM may say 5.1 EX on the display, but I am only getting sound out of my rear speakers, not my surrounds. When I do my speaker calibration, they all work in the proper order. The wiring is as it should be and the ADC/Audio Output setting is as it should be. On, 5.1 DVD's the surrounds kick in as well as on some Satellite broadcasts. Why would it say 5.1 and not be playing to my surrounds?


Anyone else experience either of these issues?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 59avi is only an HDMI V1.0 device -- it was one of the first shipping HDMI devices.
> 
> 
> HDMI V1.0 hardware can't support that audio bandwidth.
> 
> --Bob



I thought the 59AVi was 1.1 it supports DVD-A doesn't it?


I believe the real issue here is Sony used to forbid converting DSD to PCM. My 79AVi can't do SACD over HDMI either. I don't know of any players that actually output DSD via HDMI ala version 1.2. Funny thing is the new PS3 is apparently transmitting SACD as PCM over HDMI 1.3.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought the 59AVi was 1.1 it supports DVD-A doesn't it?
> 
> 
> I believe the real issue here is Sony used to forbid converting DSD to PCM. My 79AVi can't do SACD over HDMI either. I don't know of any players that actually output DSD via HDMI ala version 1.2. Funny thing is the new PS3 is apparently transmitting SACD as PCM over HDMI 1.3.



So how is the Oppo able to do it? The Oppo isn't a 1.3 hdmi device, is it?


----------



## obie_fl

The Oppo converts DSD to PCM.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Oppo converts DSD to PCM.



So Sony no longer "forbids" this, or is Oppo doing it anyway?


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought the 59AVi was 1.1 it supports DVD-A doesn't it?
> 
> 
> I believe the real issue here is Sony used to forbid converting DSD to PCM. My 79AVi can't do SACD over HDMI either. I don't know of any players that actually output DSD via HDMI ala version 1.2. Funny thing is the new PS3 is apparently transmitting SACD as PCM over HDMI 1.3.



The 59AVi is only HDMI 1.0 and only passes video via HDMI maybe 2ch audio?, the 79AVi I believe is 1.1 but still won't do SACD via HDMI like the OPPO 970 will.


dc


----------



## obie_fl

Apparently Sony no longer cares and are doing it themselves on the PS3.


Rob can you confirm that the 59 can't do DVD-A over HDMI? I thought it could for some reason.


----------



## budeone

The new file Nick sent me works great.. It upgraded in about 15 min and took the first time.


It is still 1.11 but it is NOT the same file.


This is the NEW 1.11 file... You still need the other files that go with it. This is just teh loader.

This is for the AVM-50 !

http://rapidshare.com/files/5670317/..._06__.zip.html 



I hope this helps some of you


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought the 59AVi was 1.1 it supports DVD-A doesn't it?
> 
> 
> I believe the real issue here is Sony used to forbid converting DSD to PCM. My 79AVi can't do SACD over HDMI either. I don't know of any players that actually output DSD via HDMI ala version 1.2. Funny thing is the new PS3 is apparently transmitting SACD as PCM over HDMI 1.3.



The PS3 transmits SACD to the D2 as PCM 24/88.2kHz.... it makes the thing work like a dog, and the fans start going crazy, but it does sound very nice







Appearantly it is all done in software, and is quite a feat..


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Apparently Sony no longer cares and are doing it themselves on the PS3.
> 
> 
> Rob can you confirm that the 59 can't do DVD-A over HDMI? I thought it could for some reason.




No, I can't confirm that because my Parasound Halo doesn't have HDMI inputs, which is one reason I am considering an upgrade.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The PS3 transmits SACD to the D2 as PCM 24/88.2kHz.... it makes the thing work like a dog, and the fans start going crazy, but it does sound very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Appearantly it is all done in software, and is quite a feat..




BTW, my "contact" for the PS3 has come through.......with flying colors!










Will have it early next week. Earlier if I weren't too lazy to drive out this weekend!


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The PS3 transmits SACD to the D2 as PCM 24/88.2kHz....



Just an FYI: DSD's native sampling rate is exactly 64 times the CD sampling rate (44.1), which makes converting it to 88.2 easier and cleaner than converting to 96. Divide by 32, no fractions.


Sanjay


----------



## Unclejeff

It has been a month since anyone has complained about the Anthem over-heating problems. Have I missed something?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It has been a month since anyone has complained about the Anthem over-heating problems. Have I missed something?



As someone who has read a good portion of this thread, and is considering the D2, I was going to bring this up myself. Glad to see that someone else did instead!


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It has been a month since anyone has complained about the Anthem over-heating problems. Have I missed something?



Well, winter is here is it not?


Actually, I thought the overheating complaints disappeared when DrJRapp suggested that the tweek for reducing the overheating was increasing the space under the bottom of the D2 by raising it up a bit from the shelf with some cones or risers.


----------



## drmabuse

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone on here might have some insight into a problem I have encountered.

First of all I own a D2 which is running HDMI through to a Panny 65" 1080p plasma.

I recently purchased the Velodyne SMS-1 subwoofer management system. This EQ tool has a video out and an s-video out. These enable the EQ screen for tweaking.

I have the SMS hooked up through s-video (tried video as well = same result) and I cannot get the screen to come up.

Interestingly enough when I go into the source setup, I have the SMS in aux, and exit back out I see the Velodyne screen for a split second and then it disappears.

The D2 seems to be blocking the signal...

Anyone have any ideas/suggestions?

Cheers!!!

/\\/\\


----------



## obie_fl

If you search this thread you will see quite a bit of discussion about this issue.


Here is a search for you.


----------



## bluemark81

Reposted:


Any Canadians with Bell's 9200 or US DishNet 622DVR with the AVM50?


1. I am not able to use my HDMI cable from my satellite receiver to my AVM and get a 5.1 signal. I have to also use an optical cable to get the 5.1. If I just use HDMI, my AVM senses the signal as a 2 ch source.


2. The other thing I notice is that the AVM may say 5.1 EX on the display, but I am only getting sound out of my rear speakers, not my surrounds. When I do my speaker calibration, they all work in the proper order. The wiring is as it should be and the ADC/Audio Output setting is as it should be. On, 5.1 DVD's the surrounds kick in as well as on some Satellite broadcasts. Why would it say 5.1 and not be playing to my surrounds?


Anyone else experience either of these issues?


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you search this thread you will see quite a bit of discussion about this issue.
> 
> 
> Here is a search for you.




Thanks Tom - did not realize how old a problem this is...

Cheers!

/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

You might try searching or asking on the HD Recorder forum here. That's where most discussion of HD/DVR devices (both cable and satellite) takes place.


Off hand it sounds to me like you've got a faulty HD/DVR device. Perhaps there is a software upgrade for it.


As I understand it you are saying that you can never get more than 2 channel audio from it's HDMI output. This was pretty common in early implementations of HDMI from manufacturers who didn't really give a d*mn about doing HDMI right. The theory was that HDMI would only ever be used to connect directly to a TV and so you'd only have the stereo speakers built into the TV to drive via HDMI.


The workaround as you've discovered is to run a separate optical or coax digital audio cable to the Anthem. It is unlikely you will be able to change this without getting a different DVR -- it is a hardware issue. By the way, running a separate optical cable is good for another reason, because getting audio over HDMI will likely increase the delay when you change channels between SDTV and HDTV channels and a new HDMI handshake kicks in.


However the fact that you are getting screwed up surround sound over the optical cable on some broadcasts sounds like a software screw up in the DVR. If so, there will likely be many other complaints reported on the HD Recorder forum.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm surprised! Is there really no one here who has tackled this issue of having to boost LFE for some multi-channel analog and for all PCM inputs?


What settings are you using in the D2 to get proper bass from 6 channel analog SACD input, from HDMI PCM SACD input, and from HDMI PCM HD-DVD or Blue Ray input?


Levesque? Anybody?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

So far no HDMI handshake issues with any source device while using V1.11. It's a pity it is too late to return the high end HDMI cable I bought to use with my Comcast Motorola HD/DVR.....


However one related bug is still in the V1.11 software:


I have the Comcast input in the Anthem set to Scale Output / Letter Pillar Box. With this setting, HDTV is full screen (of course), and SDTV automatically uses pillar box. However, sometimes when switching from SDTV to HDTV the HDTV image ALSO gets pillar boxed.


The fix for this is to momentarily switch the Anthem to a different video input and then back to the Comcast box.


I'm fully prepared to believe this is a screwup in the Comcast box -- sending the wrong flag to the Anthem. I'm just documenting that the new Anthem software hasn't worked around this yet.

--Bob


----------



## markalston




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you put a Gefen DVI detective between the HTPC and the Anthem, you should be fine.



Just out of curiosity, did you teach your detective from the d2 like I did? If so, does it report an apple display to your htpc?



> Quote:
> I've tried the following resolutions from the HTPC to the Anthem, all work as expected. And that includes switching the resolutions on a live system.
> 
> 
> 1080i
> 
> 1080p @60hz
> 
> 1080p @59.94hz
> 
> 1080p @24.00hz
> 
> 1080p @23.976 hz
> 
> 720p @60hz
> 
> 1366x768 @60



Mind posting your modelines/powerstrip settings for fellow D2'ers who are still having problems?


Mark A.


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm surprised! Is there really no one here who has tackled this issue of having to boost LFE for some multi-channel analog and for all PCM inputs?
> 
> 
> What settings are you using in the D2 to get proper bass from 6 channel analog SACD input, from HDMI PCM SACD input, and from HDMI PCM HD-DVD or Blue Ray input?
> 
> 
> Levesque? Anybody?
> 
> --Bob



Bob

This is an issue I don't think most of us want to admit to









While I've experienced low LFE with HD-DVD via HDMI/PCM, the fix I'm using is to lower all levels except SUB within player.

But this low LFE issue doesn't seem to be a factor when using the OPPO 970 via HDMI/PCM and SACD or DVD-A. Are you having a different experience?


dc


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drmabuse,

The work around for the Velodyne S-video issue is to run S-video (and stereo audio) from the Velodyne to the D2, and then also run a separate S-video connection from the D2 to your display.


When you want to use the Velodyne EQ interface, select the SMS input on the D2 (to make the test audio signal from the SMS work and to activate the S-video input) and then also switch your display to ITS S-video input as opposed to the normal HDMI or Component input you use from the D2 scaler.


The S-video from the Velodyne will then "pass through" the D2 (unscaled and unprocessed) to your TV's S-video input and will likely show up just fine on your TV.


--------------------------------------------------------------------


No one has yet figured out why the Anthem's scaler won't sync to the Velodyne S-video. One theory is that the Velodyne is only sending half the fields of the 480i signal. Another is that the Anthem is having trouble syncing up because the Velodyne uses an all blue background color.


The latest suggestion from Velodyne was to try switching the Velodyne video output to PAL/SECAM mode from NTSC. I haven't had a chance to try this yet with my Velodyne DD-15, but maybe you could try it with the SMS and report back.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DreamCatcher,

I don't use an Oppo. I'm just trying to get this documented here for others and for when I eventually take the plunge on HD-DVD or Blue Ray.


The problem with changing the SUB level on the D2 with respect to other channels is that it affects not only the incoming LFE signal but also the bass steered from the main speakers to the subwoofer. This problem is better described in the thread I linked to above. Here it is again:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=748147 


Now the Anthem *DOES* have a way for modifying just the LFE level. Press the Sub/LFE button on the remote, pause briefly, and press it again. But that setting only allows you to LOWER the LFE with respect to the other channels. You can't boost it that way.


So how should we correctly tackle this issue of boosting JUST LFE, and when is that appropriate? Or does the Anthem somehow figure this out all by itself?

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Well until the DVE HD DVD disc ships it is really difficult to quantify the LFE output of HD DVD. I need to re-run some SPL cals as I think I lost them during one of the upgrades. I'll try to do some checks with both the internal tones of the D2 and the Toshiba and Pioneer players if I can find the time later today.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Good Tom.


Here's the key. If the Anthem is doing something automatic here we need to quantify it so that we can figure out when, if ever, we need to disable it.


If not then we need to figure out the best way to boost JUST the PCM digital, or 6 channel analog, LFE input with respect to the other channels on a per input basis. Apparently we need a 10dB boost and may need a 15dB boost. The key is to just boost the LFE channel and to NOT boost bass steered from any of the main speakers to the Subwoofer output.


Off hand, it is not obvious to me how to do this properly in the D2. There is most likely an easy way to do it, but it is not something I've tried.

--Bob


----------



## jjmd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> Reposted:
> 
> 
> Any Canadians with Bell's 9200 or US DishNet 622DVR with the AVM50?
> 
> 
> 1. I am not able to use my HDMI cable from my satellite receiver to my AVM and get a 5.1 signal. I have to also use an optical cable to get the 5.1. If I just use HDMI, my AVM senses the signal as a 2 ch source.
> 
> 
> 2. The other thing I notice is that the AVM may say 5.1 EX on the display, but I am only getting sound out of my rear speakers, not my surrounds. When I do my speaker calibration, they all work in the proper order. The wiring is as it should be and the ADC/Audio Output setting is as it should be. On, 5.1 DVD's the surrounds kick in as well as on some Satellite broadcasts. Why would it say 5.1 and not be playing to my surrounds?
> 
> 
> Anyone else experience either of these issues?



The 622 only transmits stereo over the "HDMI" output. That is why they call it a "High Definition" output, not HDMI as it does not comply to the HDMI spec for aidio.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OK, now I'm officially alarmed.


I've just gone through the D2 manual again and I can't spot anything which OUGHT TO work as suggested in that LFE boost thread previously referenced. Everything I can think of will not only boost the incoming LFE but will also boost bass steered to the subwoofer from the main speakers.


Nor is there any way to lower all channels EXCEPT LFE without also FAILING to lower steered bass.


If correct, this is a fundamental functionality flaw affecting SACD, HD-DVD and Blue Ray users, and Anthem needs to address it right quick.


On the other hand, adding such an LFE specific adjustment should be a piece of cake. Since some people are reporting weak bass problems with the Anthem and these sources, it is apparent that the Anthem doesn't just handle this automatically. So it is beyond me that Anthem hasn't spotted and addressed this already.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the Comcast input in the Anthem set to Scale Output / Letter Pillar Box. With this setting, HDTV is full screen (of course), and SDTV automatically uses pillar box. However, sometimes when switching from SDTV to HDTV the HDTV image ALSO gets pillar boxed.
> 
> 
> I'm fully prepared to believe this is a screwup in the Comcast box -- sending the wrong flag to the Anthem. I'm just documenting that the new Anthem software hasn't worked around this yet.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I haven't had this error with the Moto comcast using the same HDTV and std def defaults, but using the component outputs only. This may be an Anthem issue then, but I put nothing past the Moto being HDMI out screwing up.


Tim


----------



## Juan Solo

Hi,

I need some help. After reading the glowing reviews about the d1/d2 I decided to jump in and get a d2. I've been reading this thread and know about the heat related issues. Well I got my unit on Wednesday and finally opened it up today. Everything was going great until the unit abruptly shut down. I powered down the rear switch and let it cool down. Turned it on after a while and again everything was great. Problem is that this unit will not stay on for longer than 10 minutes. I tried raising the unit about an inch and getting a colling fan, which helped, but it shut down again. I'm really concerned because I got this unit from Audiogon. Do I have any options, or did I roll the dice and lose? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


----------



## budeone

I had a problem close to that myself I bought a cool plate and have had zero problems since.

http://www.smarthome.com/8734C.html


----------



## Juan Solo

budeone,

Thanks alot. Just placed my order for the cool plate. Hopefully it will do the trick.


----------



## randman

For those who have had trouble upgrading their D2/50, here's some history of my experiences upgrading the firmware.


I first tried to upgrade from 1.0 to 1.06 using a Keyspan USB/Serial adapter. I successfully verified that the things were configured properly by using the Settings Editor to save my D2's settings. However, I tried a number of times to upgrade the firmware to 1.06 with the USB/Serial adapter, and I kept getting an error (FPGA type of error). I then used my laptop, which has a built-in serial port, and was able to do the upgrade on the first try. I really wanted to use my HTPC to configure/save settings, etc. with my D2. It's more convenient than a laptop, since my HTPC is already in the same room. However, my HTPC doesn't have a built-in serial port. So, I purchased a serial card from SIIG ( http://www.siig.com/ ). I successfully upgraded my D2 from 1.06 to 1.11 on the first try with this serial card (took 11 minutes). I know other folks have had success with the Keyspan USB/Serial adapter, but I have no luck. For those who have had trouble with a USB/Serial adapter, try a serial PCI card.


----------



## FilmMixer

I suggedted to Nick @ Anthem that they supply a certified USB>Serial adaptor or at least sell one... the probably spend more time and money chasing down these issues than an adaptor would cost them....


I had the same issues as you and the PCI serial card did the trick...


----------



## DOBE

I love what I've read about the D2. The reviews suggest that it's fully compatible with the next-generation of HD players. But is that totally true?


It seems clear that HDMI 1.1 has the bandwidth to carry the new high-definition multichannel digital *audio* formats ... *after* they're decoded by a Blu-ray or HD-DVD player. However, what about the video?


I realize the D2 can be upgraded ... but unless the update merely involves the software, the process is time consuming and cumbersome. I'm concerned about purchasing any a/v device in the chain which isn't HDMI 1.3 compliant.


As I understand it, unless every HDMI link in the chain is 1.3 complaint, the *video* resolution will be limited to the oldest resolution of any device in the chain.


So in the near future when an HDMI 1.3 Blu-Ray player is capable of outputting 1080P, it will only be able to output that full resolution 1080P signal to a 1.3 display or projector. The near future 1.3 compliant HD player will default to a *lower resolution* when connected to a 1.1 display/projector or through the current D2.


Does anyone know how much resolution will be lost?


Also, it's obviously possible to upgrade the D2 but it would probably require a hardware update. The HDMI receiver chips in the D2 would probably need to be replaced. I do not think they can just be upgraded with firmware to the 1.3 specifications.


The key would seem to be how much video resolution would be lost with 1.1 HDMI receiver chips in the chain. Of course, since 1.3 compliant displays/projectors aren't available yet that creates a potentially even more formidable concern.


So more waiting to prevent buyers remorse?


----------



## elmac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I love what I've read about the D2. The reviews suggest that it's fully compatible with the next-generation of HD players. But is that totally true?
> 
> 
> It seems clear that HDMI 1.1 has the bandwidth to carry the new high-definition multichannel digital *audio* formats ... *after* they're decoded by a Blu-ray or HD-DVD player. However, what about the video?
> 
> 
> I realize the D2 can be upgraded ... but unless the update merely involves the software, the process is time consuming and cumbersome. I'm concerned about purchasing any a/v device in the chain which isn't HDMI 1.3 compliant.
> 
> 
> As I understand it, unless every HDMI link in the chain is 1.3 complaint, the *video* resolution will be limited to the oldest resolution of any device in the chain.
> 
> 
> So in the near future when an HDMI 1.3 Blu-Ray player is capable of outputting 1080P, it will only be able to output that full resolution 1080P signal to a 1.3 display or projector. The near future 1.3 compliant HD player will default to a *lower resolution* when connected to a 1.1 display/projector or through the current D2.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how much resolution will be lost?
> 
> 
> Also, it's obviously possible to upgrade the D2 but it would probably require a hardware update. The HDMI receiver chips in the D2 would probably need to be replaced. I do not think they can just be upgraded with firmware to the 1.3 specifications.
> 
> 
> The key would seem to be how much video resolution would be lost with 1.1 HDMI receiver chips in the chain. Of course, since 1.3 compliant displays/projectors aren't available yet that creates a potentially even more formidable concern.
> 
> 
> So more waiting to prevent buyers remorse?



you will not loose any resolution

D2 can handle all the current and Future sounds with HDMI1.1

also 1.1 will handle up to 24 bit of video in 1080P

Unfortunately none of the screens/PJ/monitors at this time can handle anything above 12 bit so D2 will be fine for years

Hope this helps


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've got a new problem with V1.11.


I set the Anthem input for my Comcast box to Letter/Pillar Box. The Comcast (usually) flags the incoming signal correctly and the Anthem then automatically displays an image that fills the screen for 16:9 content (HDTV) and is pillar boxed by the Anthem for 4:3 content (SDTV).


The problem is that for some reason the Anthem FAILS TO REMEMBER THIS SETTING over power cycles. Something greater than 50% of the time, when I turn off the Anthem using the remote and then turn it back on again, this setting reverts to "Anamorphic"!


This never happened with V1.06.


NOTES:


* All other settings in the Video Source Adjustment menus for that Comcast input get remembered just fine. No problem with any of them.


* I'm not using any layered inputs with this Comcast input yet. The primary input (TV1) is the only TV input that is not "disabled".


* I've not yet been able to find any rhyme or reason to why this setting reverts sometimes over a power cycle but not always.


* The work around of course is just to check and reset the setting after powering up the D2.


* I've yet to have the setting revert DURING viewing. Only a power cycle seems to trigger this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dobe,

Upgrading the D2 to HDMI V1.3 would indeed require a hardware change out. The relevant driver chips are different.


However, as you'll discover reading back in this thread, HDMI V1.3 is essentially marketing fluff and hype which is being deliberately talked up in as confusing a manner as possible by an industry desperate to find some way to get people to buy new receivers next year by introducing fear, uncertainty and doubt into the HD-DVD and Blue Ray markets. It's purported benefits are not real at all today, and the parts of it that may have some future advantage likely won't for the next 4 years (or more). The limiting factors are the commercially available content and also the physical display technology.


The D2 today can handle 1080p over HDMI just fine at both video and film frame rates. The hardware on either side of the D2 need be only HDMI V1.1. HDMI V1.3 devices will work with the D2 the same way.


There's nothing wrong with HDMI V1.3, despite the nonsense being spouted about it. It's just that it is not worth waiting for, nor is it worth paying a premium for.

--Bob


----------



## randman

Bob - My D2 seems to remember my letter/pillar box settings okay. I had to reset them after upgrading from 1.06 to 1.11 (saving and then restoring User Settings did not save them). After I reset them after the upgrade, I have had no problems with the settings after powering on and off. It's only been less than a day since I upgraded, so if I find similar issues, I'll post them here.


I did notice one annoying issue after upgrade, though....


After upgrading my D2 from firmware version 1.06 to version 1.11, I noticed that the on-screen display stays on for about 20 seconds, regardless of the display timeout that I set.


My Setup menu's Displays/Timeout (3.11) settings are as follows:


a. Main On-Screen: S-V + HD

b. Main OS Info: All Zones

...

i. FP Wake-Up: Up 1

j. Display Timeout: 5 s


Prior to upgrading to 1.11, the Display Timeout setting worked for both the front panel display and the on-screen display. With version 1.11, the Display Timeout setting works only for the front panel. The on-screen display stays on for about 20 seconds regardless of the Display Timeout setting.


I like using the on-screen display, but having it on for as long as 20 seconds is not desirable.


Anyone else having this issue? I'll send email to Anthem.


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> hype which is being deliberately talked up in as confusing a manner as possible by an industry desperate to find some way to get people to buy new receivers next year by introducing fear, uncertainty and doubt
> 
> --Bob



Sounds like the tactics being used by our current administration










I'm sure as HDMI 1.3 makes it's way into home theater products Anthem will take care of it's products as well, needed or not.


Bob, Do you think Anthem will have a working Room EQ for the D2 by CES 07?


dc


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've got a new problem with V1.11.
> 
> The problem is that for some reason the Anthem FAILS TO REMEMBER THIS SETTING over power cycles. Something greater than 50% of the time, when I turn off the Anthem using the remote and then turn it back on again, this setting reverts to "Anamorphic"!This never happened with V1.06.
> 
> --Bob



I have a confirm of this with the Pio 59AVi (HDMI, still no prob with Comcast on Component nor HDTivo on HDMI), so it must be the Anthem failing to remember vs a Comcast box issue.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a confirm of this with the Pio 59AVi (HDMI, still no prob with Comcast on Component nor HDTivo on HDMI), so it must be the Anthem failing to remember vs a Comcast box issue.



I've confirmed the issue that Bob was reporting...


I have an HD TiVo. My HD TiVo's "Video Output Format" is configured to "Native" mode, meaning that it will output the original broadcast's format (e.g. 480i, 720p, 1080i, etc.). My HD TiVo is connected via an HDMI cable to my D2's HDMI 1 input. It is also connected via S-Video (for Zone 2). "HDMI Repeater" is set to "Yes".


In the D2's video settings, I changed "Scale Out" from "Panoramic Stretch" to "Letter/Pillar Box", so non-HD channels appear in 4:3 format. When I power off the D2 (via the remote), and power it back on, "Scale Out" resets back to "Panoramic Stretch". This has happened to me 3 times for the past 3 Power On/Off cycles. I can't seem to make it stay at "Letter/Pillar Box" after powering off/on.


Note: I also changed "Crop Input" from "Edges Off" to "Edges On", with a value of 10. The D2 remembers this setting correctly when I power cycle.


I'm going to send Anthem email about this....


----------



## bluemark81

What does v1.11 add?


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I suggedted to Nick @ Anthem that they supply a certified USB>Serial adaptor or at least sell one... the probably spend more time and money chasing down these issues than an adaptor would cost them.... /QUOTE]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a great idea - Anthem should put you on the payroll as a paid consultant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I purchased my Arcam AVP700, my dealer included a cable (null modem cable) to be sure that I would be able to handle upgrades myself with no problems.
Click to expand...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

randman,

My display timeout was set to 3 seconds prior to the upgrade, and restored to 3 seconds as expected when I restored settings from my saved PC file after the upgrade. With my V1.11 D2, the 3 second time out continues to work properly for both the front panel and the On Screen Display. I think you'll need to work this issue with Anthem.


-------------------------------------------------

DreamCatcher,

I've got no clue when Anthem will have Room EQ ready to show. They've apparently been working on it for some time and don't seem to be under any pressure to rush it out until they think they've got it right.


-------------------------------------------------

randman and rudopht,

Thanks for reporting. I suspect this failure to remember the Scaler Out setting is related to the layered inputs. That is, I suspect they are accidentally getting the value from the wrong layered input when things power up. The only thing that puzzles me is that it doesn't ALWAYS reset when I power cycle. In any event, this is clearly a new bug and should be straightforward for them to find.


------------------------------------------------

Bluemark81,

The changes for V1.11 are in the installer's read me first text file when you download the V1.11 install kit. As I recall they were also posted by someone a while back in this thread.


The biggest changes are the addition of multiple input setting memories for many of the inputs, film/video frame rate Frame Lock for displays that can take advantage of it, Custom video output resolutions and timings, and Gamma Correction.


HDMI handshake robustness has also been improved.

--Bob


----------



## lotia




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you put a Gefen DVI detective between the HTPC and the Anthem, you should be fine.
> 
> I've tried the following resolutions from the HTPC to the Anthem, all work as expected. And that includes switching the resolutions on a live system.
> 
> 
> 1080i
> 
> 1080p @60hz
> 
> 1080p @59.94hz
> 
> 1080p @24.00hz
> 
> 1080p @23.976 hz
> 
> 720p @60hz
> 
> 1366x768 @60
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the HTPC set to 1080p @23.976, and the Anthem is set for Framelock=auto/enabled. The anthem outputs at the proper frequency in this case, to a Sony Pearl projector for smooth film playback.
> 
> 
> There is still a problem with the 1080p @24 output mode in the Anthem though, where you are feeding the Anthem a 1080i input signal (in my case, from a Toshiba HD-A1). Nick at Anthem provided custom resolution timings, which are work better than the built in 24p mode, but the video still goes into a slow-motion glitch every few minutes or so (and the source HD-A1 component needs to be paused/resumed to get the video back in sync). Anthem is still investigating this.



sfield, are you running a windows or a linux htpc? if the latter, i would love to know what X modelines you're using for the different framerates.

TIA

Ali


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've got another problem with V1.11.


My Fujitsu plasma is connected to the D2 via HDMI to DVI cable. The Fujitsu automatically remembers settings for the last 5 devices coming in over that input, and switches to the last set of settings made for each of those devices.


If a "new" device comes in over that input, the Fujitsu switches back to its default settings.


Under V1.06 this all worked just fine. The Fujitsu always recognized the Anthem as a device for which it had previously remembered settings.


However under V1.11 that no longer works. Upon powering up both the Fujitsu and the Anthem, the Fujitsu apparently sees the Anthem as a "new" device and thus reverts to default settings. Now I can easily work around that by restoring settings from one of the memory banks on the Fujitsu, but no matter how many times I do that (and I've done it more than 5 times) the Fujitsu continues to believe the Anthem is a "new" device each time they are powered up.


I don't know exactly how the Fujitsu recognizes a device on that input. I don't believe it is just the incoming video resolution, but likely also involves the electronic ID information passed in the handshake.


In any event, something changed here for V1.11 and now I've got this extra inconvenience when I power things up.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In any event, something changed here for V1.11 and now I've got this extra inconvenience when I power things up.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob:


I hope you will be communicating your findings directly to Anthem

and just not HERE!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

New V1.1x manual considered helpful!


The new V1.1x manual includes a number of helpful, explanatory changes. If it has been a while since you last read the manual, now might be a good time to take another look.


For example, we previously discussed here the "broken" Zoom feature in the Scale Output menu -- use it and video quality goes to pot. The prior manual mistakenly suggested using this feature to deal with "matted" films -- e.g. a wide screen film embedded in a 4:3 SDTV frame so that it appears on a 16:9 screen with large black borders around all 4 sides.


The new manual no longer makes that recommendation. Instead the new manual describes the Zoom feature as something for temporary use only when you want to magnify the image for some reason, and points out that Zoom takes place AFTER other processing and thus will likely screw up image quality. The new manual correctly points out that dealing with issues like matted films is much better handled with the standard or custom cropping options in the Crop Input menu -- which take effect BEFORE other processing and result in much better image quality.


I continue to think that Anthem does a remarkably good job of answering real user questions in their manual.

--Bob


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elmac* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> you will not loose any resolution
> 
> 
> D2 can handle all the current and Future sounds with HDMI1.1
> 
> 
> also 1.1 will handle up to 24 bit of video in 1080P
> 
> 
> Unfortunately none of the screens/PJ/monitors at this time can handle anything above 12 bit so D2 will be fine for years
> 
> 
> Hope this helps





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Dobe,
> 
> 
> Upgrading the D2 to HDMI V1.3 would indeed require a hardware change out. The relevant driver chips are different.
> 
> 
> However, as you'll discover reading back in this thread, HDMI V1.3 is essentially marketing fluff and hype which is being deliberately talked up in as confusing a manner as possible by an industry desperate to find some way to get people to buy new receivers next year by introducing fear, uncertainty and doubt into the HD-DVD and Blue Ray markets. It's purported benefits are not real at all today, and the parts of it that may have some future advantage likely won't for the next 4 years (or more). The limiting factors are the commercially available content and also the physical display technology.
> 
> 
> The D2 today can handle 1080p over HDMI just fine at both video and film frame rates. The hardware on either side of the D2 need be only HDMI V1.1. HDMI V1.3 devices will work with the D2 the same way.
> 
> 
> There's nothing wrong with HDMI V1.3, despite the nonsense being spouted about it. It's just that it is not worth waiting for, nor is it worth paying a premium for.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the responses. My question was prompted by an answer to a letter in the December "Perfect Vision"... Robert Harley's magazine. It's on page 11, if anyone has the magazine.


Barry Willis's response to a question about an HDMI 1.3 equipped Blu-ray player connected to any device in the chain with a "lower" version went like this:



> Quote:
> ...the resulting resolution will be limited to the oldest version of HDMI of any device in the chain. HDMI involves a 'handshaking protocol' wherein each device identifies itself and it's capabilities to other connected devices....An HDMI v1.3 Blu-ray player is capable of outputting 1080p, but only to a v 1.3 display or projector. it will default to a lower resolution when connected to a v 1.1 projector [display or other device]. You'll still get high definition just not the highest. There's no risk of damage. When reconnected to a v1.3 display or projector the Blu-ray will output 1080p...



Talk about confusing. These guys are supposed to be HT experts.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Indeed. His response is wrong. The Anthem D2 and AVM-50 are HDMI V1.1 devices and they accept 1080p over HDMI today.


There certainly are HDMI V1.1 devices out there which top out at 1080i, but that's not an HDMI V1.1 limitation, but rather a marketing decision to not add the cost of processing the higher bandwidth 1080p signal inside the device. If you try to send 1080p to such a device the connection won't work. HDMI includes a protocol for exchanging allowed resolutions between devices so the device at the other end of the cable will know that the other device isn't fast enough to handle 1080p.


You should also know that there are a significant number of HDMI cables out there which work fine at 1080i but are not quite up to handling 1080p. This is probably equal parts of a design decision (keep the cost down) and a manufacturing quality control issue (also keep the cost down). This problem will likely carry over to the HDMI V1.3 world as well. There is no good way to be sure you are paying as much as you need to get a 1080p capable cable, but not paying too much for an "exotic" cable that offers no real advantage. Clever of them, eh?


Even with HDMI V1.3, you will need to check to be sure you aren't buying a "cut rate" device which only goes up to 1080i.


And it is even more confusing than that! That's because there are different "frame rates" of 1080p. 1080p/24Hz is a lower bandwidth signal than 1080p/60Hz. The Anthem D2 and AVM-50 go up to /60Hz on their HDMI V1.1 connections for both input and output. On the other hand, the current crop of Pioneer Elite 768p (native resolution) plasmas can accept a 1080p/24Hz signal (good for watching movies -- down scaled by the plasma to 768p/78Hz) but do NOT accept a 1080p/60Hz signal (good for watching TV).


Having fun yet?

--Bob


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> Reposted:
> 
> 
> Any Canadians with Bell's 9200 or US DishNet 622DVR with the AVM50?
> 
> 
> 1. I am not able to use my HDMI cable from my satellite receiver to my AVM and get a 5.1 signal. I have to also use an optical cable to get the 5.1. If I just use HDMI, my AVM senses the signal as a 2 ch source.



I'm not Canadian but have a simple answer for you.


Since the 622 doesn't have an internal DD decoder the only way to get 5.1 is to decode a digital signal externally. I use the D2s decoder to decode a toslink digital signal from the 622.


My D2 reports the HDMI audio source on the Dish 622 as 2 channel.


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On the other hand, the current crop of Pioneer Elite 768p (native resolution) plasmas can accept a 1080p/24Hz signal (good for watching movies -- down scaled by the plasma to 768p/78Hz) but do NOT accept a 1080p/60Hz signal (good for watching TV).
> 
> 
> Having fun yet?
> 
> --Bob



I'm pretty sure Bob's aware of this, because he only mentioned the Elite 768P panels, but the 1080P PRO-FHD1 panel can handle a 60 hertz 1080P signal. I'm still waiting for my AVM50 to arrive (hopefully early this week), and I will report back how the VXP chip compares to the FHD1 internal scaling. I'm not sure what chip Pioneer is using inside the TV.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes indeed! I'll be very interested to hear how your experience goes with the FHD1 and the AVM-50. I have every reason to believe the Gennum VXP processing in the Anthem will be the bee's knees with this plasma.


Do you intend to get the setup professionally calibrated? Between the new setup options under V1.11 and the extensive options in the FHD1, deciding you've got the best combo could take a while.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht

Hmmm. HD Tivo issue not impacting me as I do the SD "blow up" from Letterbox SD to 16:9 SD then the Anthem does the rest in the Tivo. Maybe a bad choice, but I avoid the 1.11 quirk.


I do have an additional problem though. About 1 out of 3 times I'll start up with the unit with the HD Tivo device and only recycling Anthem po=wer gets the sound back. Annoying, but might be related to my Zone 2 settings, though always using Zone 1 sound.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm. HD Tivo issue not impacting me as I do the SD "blow up" from Letterbox SD to 16:9 SD then the Anthem does the rest in the Tivo. Maybe a bad choice, but I avoid the 1.11 quirk.
> 
> 
> I do have an additional problem though. About 1 out of 3 times I'll start up with the unit with the HD Tivo device and only recycling Anthem po=wer gets the sound back. Annoying, but might be related to my Zone 2 settings, though always using Zone 1 sound.




My HD TiVo's Video Settings' Aspect mode is set to "FULL", meaning that if 4:3 ratio (e.g. 480i) pictures are received, the picture is stretched to fill the entire screen width. I then rely on the D2 to display the picture correcty by "squeezing" the picture. Wasn't clear from the TiVo documentation & help text, but I got the impression this was the optimal way to do it to preserve as much resolution as possible.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Randman's TIVO setup is correct whenever you have the Tivo sending 480i (or 480p) to the Anthem.


A 480i signal has limited horizontal resolution as well. If you tell the Tivo, or any other 480i device, to generate pillar box bars around 4:3 content, the bars will chew up a significant portion of that resolution, leaving only what's left in the middle to carry the real program content.


Instead, set your 480i or 480p devices so that 4:3 content fills the 16:9 frame "just as if" it had been uniformly stretched left and right. In reality, when you do this, the source device is doing nothing. The Anthem and TV simply interpret the pixels as fatter.


Then set the Anthem to Letter/Pillar Box and the Anthem will generate the pillar box bars. However this will be done at the higher resolution that comes out of the scaler, leaving plenty of horizontal resolution in the middle to hold the original program content.


This dramatically and measurably improves horizontal resolution, and is particularly noticeable as regards color resolution since incoming color is only recorded at half the luminance horizontal resolution to begin with.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


If you have a source device sending 4:3 content at 720p or 1080i -- such as if you set the Tivo to do its own scaling of everything to 1080i (not recommended!) -- then it is fine for the source device to be set to generate the Pillar Box bars on its own. But of course it is (almost always) better to let the Anthem do any necessary scaling.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

rudolpht,

Next time you start up with the Tivo selected and have no sound, try momentarily switching the Anthem to another video input and then back to the Tivo and see if that fixes it. If so, then this sounds like the Tivo is getting confused by the HDMI handshake for audio (which happens, I believe, after the handshake for video).


A work around may be to run a separate optical cable from the Tivo to the Anthem and pass audio over that instead of over HDMI.


If I'm correct, you may have another symptom -- something I experienced with my Comcast box. When you change from an SDTV to HDTV channel a new HDMI handshake should occur due to the change in Tivo output resolution (set to "native" mode). There is the usual 2 second delay for video to lock in. But then there is ANOTHER delay where the video is playing but there is no audio. That's the separate audio handshake. Running audio through a separate optical cable avoids that problem as well. In fact audio may be live a bit BEFORE the video locks in.

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks

Interesting. I too have the Tivo S3 and lose audio sometimes, but usually lose both audio and video. When I lose audio and video I get the blue screen and switching video inputs does correct the issue.


Most of the time this happens when pushing the Tivo menu button. I notice the Anthem switches to 720P when bringing up the menu. I may also lose audio/video when switching tuners.


I assume the handshake is lost when the Tivo menu (720P) is brought up, as well as the resolution change that may happen when switching tuners. Another words, if I happen to be watching a 480i program and the second tuner is tuned to a 720P or 1080i source, or visa versa, the resolution change causes the handshake to become lost. I am running the Tivo in native mode.


I wonder if this is a Tivo issue or an Anthem issue.


This kind of stinks.


On a positive note, I'm anxious to get home and change the Tivo and Anthem settings as described above. I currently do not have the Tivo outputting full screen.


I can't believe the 480i material can possibly improve more than what I see now.


Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

yatchaks,

You are going to be pleasantly surprised!


I once set this up wrong with my DVD player and noticed immediately that things looked blurrier when playing, say the Addams Family TV show DVDs which are black and white so you don't have the added confusion of limited color resolution. When it dawned on me that I'd fallen into this trap, I switched it back and the improvement was obvious.


4:3 format color resolution test charts on calibration DVDs will also show the gain in color resolution in very measurable ways -- presuming you are using HDMI or are using a Component video connection that is not filtered by the player.


-----------------------------------------------------------------


Of course if your SDTV is coming from a source that over-compresses the signal, a la DirecTV, the compression artifacts will still be there. In fact since they are "crisper" they might even be more annoying.


-----------------------------------------------------------------


The temptation to have the 480i source do this pillar boxing is large because for many sources it will happen automatically, whereas if you ask the Anthem to do it you may need to make the switch from Anamorphic to Letter/Pillar Box manually. Avoid this temptation! You'll be happy you did.


The Anthem will do the switch automatically with many HDTV set top boxes due to a flag coming in from the box over HDMI. But standard DVD players may require you to set the option manually on the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For those losing audio and video with the Tivo S3, you should also consider upgrading to a high end HDMI cable. Since I made that change with my Comcast box I've had almost no problems from it.

--Bob


----------



## randman

Bob - thanks for the info. regarding having the TiVo output 4:3 material in stretched mode. That's how I set it up, but it's good to hear the confirmation that this is the ideal way to do so.


I occassionally also lose the audio from my HD TiVo, but I have the picture. This is rare (maybe happens once every 7 or 8 days of daily usage). I've also lost the audio & video (in which case I get the blue screen), and this is even rarer. Switching to another input (such as an S-Video only device) and switching back to my HD TiVo resolves the problem. These issues occurs very rarely, but does happen. It has never occured while I'm in the middle of watching a show. It generally occurs (as far as I remember) when I'm using the menu or switching between the menu and a show, and possibly when I've switched channels a lot (I set my HD TiVo to output in "native" mode, meaning output whatever the original broadcase is, whether it is 480i, 720p, 1080i, etc.).


So, it's not clear this is an issue with the Anthem or HD TiVo. Fortunately for me, it only occurs rarely, and overall, I'm very happy with the HD TiVo (this is the only bug I've experienced, which is nothing compared to my old SA 8300HD). There's a thread in http://www.tivocommunity.com/ that talks about S3 bugs, but I haven't had the time to read it yet.


----------



## randman

Regarding the 1.11 issue of "Scale Out" resetting from "Letter/Pillar Box" back to "Panoramic Stretch" upon power on/off cycle, Anthem has been able to replicate the issue and is working on it.


Audio Video Revolution just came out with a glowing review of the Anthem Statement D2:

http://www.avrev.com/equip/anthemd2/ 


Some quotes:


"Other reviewers and some Anthem dealers I spoke with suggest the Anthem Statement D2 is one of the few, if not the only, AV preamp that successfully switches HDCP copy-protected HD material from HD DVD and Blu-ray."


"Anthem took an unquestioned winner in the Anthem Statement D1 and raised the bar with the addition of a dazzling video processor, better audio and killer connectivity in the new D2. Focusing on using quality components for achieving mind-blowing sound quality and video performance, the D2 does not disappoint at any level. At its price, I toss around the term bargain infrequently, but when you consider you need to put the Anthem Statement D2 up against preamps from the likes of Krell, Halcro, Meridian, Lexicon, Sunfire and others at the upper echelon, perhaps the D2 is a bargain. I would certainly say so. With a poised pen, I paid the D2 the ultimate compliment and paid for one at a time when I had no less than three other AV preamps in my system. The Anthem Statement D2 is so good that I couldn't resist buying it."


They added the D2 to their 2006 "Gear We Love" list:

http://www.avrev.com/equip/gearwelove2006/ 


EDIT: and, for you conspiracy theorists, Audio/Video Revolution is not based in Canada - it is based in California  .


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes indeed! I'll be very interested to hear how your experience goes with the FHD1 and the AVM-50. I have every reason to believe the Gennum VXP processing in the Anthem will be the bee's knees with this plasma.
> 
> 
> Do you intend to get the setup professionally calibrated? Between the new setup options under V1.11 and the extensive options in the FHD1, deciding you've got the best combo could take a while.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I am strongly considering getting my setup professionally calibrated, but I'll probably play around with it myself first and experiment a little. Does anyone know if it's possible to bypass the D2/AVM50 processing and use it just as an HDMI switch? I'd like to be able to do a with/without AVM50 processing comparison without having to re-wire everything.


----------



## bluemark81

HDMI 6 CH map?


Can someone explain to me how this feature works?


From what I understand in reading the manual is that it supposedly will rearrange the order in which your speakers play.


If I use the speaker level calibration tool on the same source that I change this map, will it play in that order?


What does LR/lrs/CS/xx stand for?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randman's TIVO setup is correct whenever you have the Tivo sending 480i (or 480p) to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> A 480i signal has limited horizontal resolution as well. If you tell the Tivo, or any other 480i device, to generate pillar box bars around 4:3 content, the bars will chew up a significant portion of that resolution, leaving only what's left in the middle to carry the real program content.
> 
> --Bob



I guess I'm still confused here, I am talking about 480i SD material staying 480i. I rarely if ever watch Tivo SD material, but when I do it is usually 4:3 letterboxed, meaning bars all around on a 16x9 monitor.


I use the Tivo to do the minimal zoom from 4:3 SD windowboxed to 16x9 SD. I will tell you I have done the switch to Anthem device hold down 7, drop down two menus with lag vs the do nothing and the video that starts as crappy SD looks indistinguishable. This is not like a DVD squeeze or anything nearly as pristine. The Anthem is much more watchable than say Tivo internally scaled 1080i to 1080p, but overcompressed cable 480i SD 4:3 with bars vs 480i SD w/o bars difference then scaled/deinterlaced by the Anthem is negligible because of garbage in to begin with. YMMV. (note: I do make the manual changes accounting for anamorphic DVDs and non-anamorphic, correctly enhancing for widescreen. I never add pillarboxes back in because I don't start with them. The Anthem still does the 480i to 1080p scaling and deinterlacing.


Since there is no easy way to switch aspect ratios w/o menus on the anthem but I like to leave the device set not to have to change video modes. It already corrects for SD & HD appropriately.


Now on to the more important issue. I have changed devices, including to an optical audio fed component video source, and I still get silence until I do the power cycle, (I admit that I use HDMI audio for a few sources so I could see you that could be an issue, if I wasn't already trying the non-HDMI audio switched sources).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim,

480i video has only so many pixels across each line. This is true whether or not you view it on a 16:9 TV.


If you leave the source set to fill the 16:9 screen from left to right, you get every last one of those pixels in the final image. They are just interpreted as wider. Same number of pixels across each line -- just fatter. Scaling up to higher resolution at this point will produce more "made up" pixels from that original count of pixels across the line (by interpolation), but you have preserved the entire information content from the orignal source line in this process. You have lost no information. However, the result is an image which doesn't preserve the original aspect ratio. It looks stretched left and right. Circles now look like wide ovals.


If, on the other hand, you set the 480i source to generate pillar box bars, then some of the pixels on each side of each of the 480 lines are forced to black. The remaining pixels in the middle of line now have to carry the information content that was originally represented by the entire set of pixels across the line. Essentially you have SCALED DOWN the image horizontally. Fewer pixels -- the ones left in the middle -- have to carry the content that was originally carried by the whole set of pixels across the line. If you scale up this result you will get more pixels (again, by interpolation) but the information in the original image has already been lost when you squeezed it down into fewer pixels across each line. The lost information can no longer be recovered simply by scaling up the image.


So rather than throwing away information this way, stick with the original approach. Set the 480i source so that it *DOES NOT* generate pillar box bars around 4:3 content. Now set the Anthem to scale that up in resolution while SIMULTANEOUSLY generating pillar box bars -- i.e., the Letter/Pillar Box setting. What that gives you is a HIGHER RESOLUTION line that, once again, has quite a few pixels on each side set to black. But since it is a higher resolution line, the remaining pixels left in the middle of each line are numerous enough to retain the entire information content of the original 480i line! Now you have an image in the correct aspect ratio (circles look like circles), and with all of the original information content preserved.


--------------------------------------------------------------------


Now depending on your source of SDTV, you may very well have some pretty crappy 480i images to begin with. The setting I'm suggesting here won't make them any less crappy. Garbage in, irritation out. But not all SDTV channels are this bad. Some of them are actually surprisingly good. And anything you can do to preserve that quality is worthwhile.


Having Pillar Boxes applied as part of scaling the image (i.e., within the Anthem) is technically and measurably sound -- the best way to do it. More than that, you may very well be surprised just how good some SDTV can look.


----------------------------------------------------------------------


OK now here's the next step. If you are watching a wide screen movie letterboxed in a 4:3 SDTV frame (i.e., 480i or 480p), try this: As with all 480i or 480p 4:3 content, set the source to NOT generate pillar box bars, and set the Anthem to Letter/Pillar Box. Now also set the Anthem's Crop Input to "16:9" instead of "HDMI Auto". This will crop the middle of the image to a 16:9 shape PRIOR to scaling it up. That will eliminate the pillar box bars left and right and will minimize (if not totally eliminate) the letter box bars top and bottom as well! The result will not be as good as watching an HDTV version of the same movie, but it will be, nevertheless, surprisingly good.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

bluemark81,

Speaker level calibration in the Anthem is independent of how any given source is treated. It reflects the response of each real speaker in the room. So don't vary the way you calibrate your speakers even if you need to use the HDMI channel mapping function.


-------------------------------------------------------------


That aside, HDMI carries multiple channels of audio. Unfortunately for DVD-Audio listeners, there is no set standard for which DVD-Audio HDMI channel is supposed to go to which speaker. Pretty stupid, eh?


So the Anthem gives you a way to re-arrange the assignment of HDMI channels to actual speakers in case you happen to be playing a DVD-Audio disc with this problem.


You should never need to use this remapping function for any souce except DVD-Audio. If you think you have to then there is something else wrong with your setup.


LR is the Left Front and Right Front speakers.


lrs is the Left (side) Surround and Right (side) Surround speakers.


CS is the Center and Subwoofer speakers.


The Anthem also supports Left Rear and Right Rear speakers, and that's what's left.

--Bob


----------



## Buckeye

Does anyone know if any of the calibration discs include a test pattern to verify that the D2 is doing 1:1 pixel mapping?

Does Anthem plan on adding additional test patterns similar to the standalone VPs?


Bob


----------



## markalston

Hi all,


Just got my panny 50" 9uk hung on the wall and really want to get NR working on this panel. Not to rehash old nastiness but the one guy I know of who was trying to get this to work gave up and returned his D2.


[edit]


Just got it working. Found a helpful post in another scallers thread. So far it has been stable for 45 seconds










I'll followup on the stability later.


Since 1366x768 pannys are one of the most popular plasmas around I thought I'd post my settings:


Horizontal Size Total: 1794

Horizontal Size Active: 1366

Horzontal Sync Start: 24

Horizontal Sync End: 272

Vertical Size Total: 806

Vertical Size Active: 768

Vertical Sync Start: 3

Vertical Sync End: 4

Field Active Size: 768

Field Black Size 37

Offset: 0

Pixel Clock Rate: 86750000


However, these settings have only been tested for 2-3 minutes so far so I take no responsibility for you frying your plasma, losing your wife/husband and kids, or any other misbehavior.


Mark Alston


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dang Mark! It woulda been a lot more impressive if you'd let us believe you'd worked out this magic incantation all by yourself!


Good news on getting the Panny to light up.


Consider yourself absolved of all blame.

--Bob


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> EDIT: and, for you conspiracy theorists, Audio/Video Revolution is not based in Canada - it is based in California  .



Yes, but if you take the official initials of the State (CA) it is the same as the initials for the Country (CA).







And Anthem is based in Ontario, CA







LOL


----------



## pclausen

After reading about the D2 here, I'm quite interested in this unit but have some questions;


1. I currently use a BFD (Behringer Feedback Destroyer) to tame my subs. Will this new "Room EQ" upgrade that is coming out soon allow me to retire that unit?


2. I currently use a MonoPrice 5x1 HDMI switcher to switch among 3 HDMI sources and my DirecTV H20-100 receiver does not work when going through the switcher, yet it works when connected directly to my Pearl. Will the "pass through" feature of the D2 eliminate this issue?


3. My current equipment consists of the following:


Audio:

Sony TA-9000ES Preamp (really beginning to show its age. It doesn't even have 5.1 inputs so I can't enjoy Dolby TrueHD yet)

Adcom GFA-5500 mains

Adcom GFA-7500 center + 4 surrounds

Behringer DSP1124P Sub EQ

2 Crown CE-2000 sub amps


Video:

Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player

Sony PS3 Blu-ray player

DirecTV H20-100 receiver

HTPC with a Sapphire ATI 1600x Pro HDMI (w/HDCP) video card running 1080p60

MonoPrice 5x1 HDMI switcher

Sony Pearl front projector


Is the D2 a good match for the above components? (I'd retire the Sony pre-amp of course)?


4. While the HD-A1 does an excellent job upscaling DVDs, would a Oppo 970 outputting 480i over HDMI to the D2 result in an even better image on the Pearl? If so, can I use the MonoPrice HDMI switcher in front of one of the HDMI inputs on the D2? (I ask because I would then have a 5th HDMI source) Or, would I be better off connecting, say the DirecTV receiver, over component?


Thanks a bunch!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

pclausen,

The capabilities of the rumored Room EQ upgrade have not been made public. I currently use the features of a Velodyne DD series subwoofer to deal with bass EQ issues, and fully expect that I will continue to do so even after Anthem's Room EQ comes out. Why not? If the Velodyne tames the major bass issues, that lets the Anthem focus its power on refining all that (and more) even further.


That said, I'd be amazed if the Anthem Room EQ doesn't provide significant tools for dealing with bass issues.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Your DirecTV H20 will likely work just fine when you set the Anthem input to "HDMI Repeater = NO". This is a very clever feature in the Anthem which makes it pretend to the source device that the source device is directly connected to a TV. Many people are using this today with set top boxes that also just give up on HDMI the moment they discover they are not directly connected to a TV -- which by the way is a bug in the set top box itself.


This is significantly better than any sort of "pass through" solution, since the D2 can fully process the incoming video and audio just as if the H20 didn't have that bug to begin with.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------


The Oppo 970 outputing HDMI 480i to the D2, upscaled by the D2 to your Pearl, will produce a DRAMATICALLY improved image compared to playing standard def DVDs on your Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player. The de-interlacing and scaling solution in the HD-A1 is, umm, no good. And the HD-A1 doesn't offer the ability to send HDMI 480i output.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------


I see no issues in the equipment configuration you have now, except of course that your HTPC may require some tuning to work well through the Anthem. But of course the Anthem only has 4 HDMI inputs, so if you add an Oppo you may be short one input (HD-A1, PS3, H20, HTPC, and Oppo makes 5).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well from the silence from the HD-DVD, Blue Ray and SACD crowd here regarding the ability of the D2 and AVM-50 to properly deal with the LFE boost issue over 6 channel analog or HDMI 6 channel PCM inputs (obie_fl excepted), I have to conclude that the problem exists and that there really is no solution as of the V1.11 software. Right?


People really are experiencing low bass from these, right?


And there really is no way to set the D2 or AVM-50 to boost JUST the LFE channel by the necessary 10dB (or possibly 15dB for analog) without also incorrectly boosting steered bass coming from the mains, right?


Which means, at the very least, that if any of your main speakers are "small" you will get an improper bass mix, right?


As such, shouldn't we stop recommending the D2 or AVM-50 as appropriate for the best quality audio listening experience for HD-DVD, Blue Ray and SACD until Anthem adds the necessary feature in new software?

--Bob


----------



## pclausen

Thanks for the fast response Bob!


I'm thinking that I might just connect the HTPC directly to the 2nd HDMI input on the Pearl unless there is a specific reason to run it through the D2 first? I mean, I'm enjoying a pixel perfect desktop on the Pearl already and the audio would be via digital optical anyway.


I take it I should set my DirecTV H20 to always output the source natively and let it stretch everything to use all horizontal resolution as well?


I got into collecting DVDs back when they first came out. As a result, a large portion of my collection is non-anamorphic. The HD-A1 displays such titles with black borders on all sides, so I'm forced to use the zoom feature of the Pearl to fill my screen (119" diag 16x9), and it looks absolutely terrible. It sounds like I'll be in for a treat with an Oppo 970 and a D2 for this scenario.


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

pclausen,

Yes, the Oppo / D2 / Pearl combo should have you in standard DVD heaven. It is a very elegant solution.


The H20 should definitely be set to "native" -- i.e., pass along whatever video resolution happens to be coming in on the channel you are watching -- so that the H20 scaler does nothing. And the H20 should be set to NOT produce pillar box bars either side of any 4:3 SDTV content.


What's best with the HTPC will depend upon how you use it. For now, hooking it directly to the Pearl should be fine.

--Bob


----------



## randman




randman said:


> I did notice one annoying issue after upgrade, though....
> 
> After upgrading my D2 from firmware version 1.06 to version 1.11, I noticed that the on-screen display stays on for about 20 seconds, regardless of the display timeout that I set./QUOTE]
> 
> 
> Bob (and maybe others) may not be having this problem, but somehow, I have this problem. I reinstalled 1.11, and after reinstallation, it works a little differently. If I have "Display Timeout" set to X seconds, then the onscreen display turns off after X seconds, but the front panel stays on for another X seconds (so the front panel is on for 2 * X seconds total). I've exchanged emails with Anthem, and they have confirmed this is an issue and are working on a fix. Kudos again to Anthem's great tech support!


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well from the silence from the HD-DVD, Blue Ray and SACD crowd here regarding the ability of the D2 and AVM-50 to properly deal with the LFE boost issue over 6 channel analog or HDMI 6 channel PCM inputs (obie_fl excepted), I have to conclude that the problem exists and that there really is no solution as of the V1.11 software. Right?
> 
> 
> People really are experiencing low bass from these, right?
> 
> 
> And there really is no way to set the D2 or AVM-50 to boost JUST the LFE channel by the necessary 10dB (or possibly 15dB for analog) without also incorrectly boosting steered bass coming from the mains, right?
> 
> 
> Which means, at the very least, that if any of your main speakers are "small" you will get an improper bass mix, right?
> 
> 
> As such, shouldn't we stop recommending the D2 or AVM-50 as appropriate for the best quality audio listening experience for HD-DVD, Blue Ray and SACD until Anthem adds the necessary feature in new software?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Have you tried SACD via the OPPO 970, via HDMI, to the D2?

For me this works perfectly with NO adjustments within the player and NO loss of Bass content.

On the other hand my HD-XA1 when connected to the D2 via HDMI does display a loss of Bass/LFE. For now, until there's a fix hopefully, I reslove this by lowering the output levels, except SUB, within the HD-XA1, to about -5db. This does the trick, bringing back strong LFE where appropriate. But of course you have to raise the main volume of the D2 to get equal output. Have you tried this?


dc


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> bluemark81,
> 
> Speaker level calibration in the Anthem is independent of how any given source is treated. It reflects the response of each real speaker in the room. So don't vary the way you calibrate your speakers even if you need to use the HDMI channel mapping function.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> That aside, HDMI carries multiple channels of audio. Unfortunately for DVD-Audio listeners, there is no set standard for which DVD-Audio HDMI channel is supposed to go to which speaker. Pretty stupid, eh?
> 
> 
> So the Anthem gives you a way to re-arrange the assignment of HDMI channels to actual speakers in case you happen to be playing a DVD-Audio disc with this problem.
> 
> 
> You should never need to use this remapping function for any souce except DVD-Audio. If you think you have to then there is something else wrong with your setup.
> 
> 
> LR is the Left Front and Right Front speakers.
> 
> 
> lrs is the Left (side) Surround and Right (side) Surround speakers.
> 
> 
> CS is the Center and Subwoofer speakers.
> 
> 
> The Anthem also supports Left Rear and Right Rear speakers, and that's what's left.
> 
> --Bob




Bob:


Given your above explanation, what does the xx stand for? Also, how would I set the mapping if I wanted to redirect signal from side channels to rear channels?


Thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dc,

That's just the point. As I understand it, SACD recordings (at least some of them, maybe most) do *NOT* lower the "LFE" channel by 10dB in their mix to clear headroom for extra loud bangs without clipping -- thus requiring the pre-amp to re-boost the LFE by 10dB prior to output to the power amp to get everything back in line again.


However HD-DVD and Blue Ray apparently do -- just as DD and DTS "bitstream" audio tracks already do. And, also apparently, some newer SACD discs also do to "fit in" with the other formats. I.e., not all SACD discs are created equal these days.


Now the DD and DTS bitstreams from standard DVDs, HDTV, or the optical or coax digital audio "compatability" outputs of HD-DVD or Blue Ray get handled properly by EVERYBODY these days. The LFE track, decoded from the bitstream in the receiver or pre/pro, is boosted by 10dB before bass steering happens and also before output to the power amp. The incoming LFE signal doesn't clip, and everything is back in balance again before power amplification happens.


But apparently the D2 and AVM-50 don't do the LFE boost for incoming analog 6-channel or HDMI PCM 6-channel. And that's why it is working right for the SACD discs you happen to own, but working wrong for your HD-DVD or Blue Ray discs decoded into HDMI PCM in the player!


That means that *ALL* HD-DVD and Blue Ray tracks decoded by the player into HDMI PCM will appear weak in bass. Some SACD tracks will as well if you happen to get one of the "new" SACD discs that lower their LFE by 10dB as part of the mixing process.


And there appears to be no way in the user settings for the D2 or AVM-50 to boost *JUST* the incoming LFE track by 10dB when the LFE comes in over 6-channel analog or HDMI PCM.


All that the D2 and AVM-50 provide are ways to boost the entire subwoofer output. This is true whether you boost sub, or lower everything except sub. That means you boost LFE correctly, but *ALSO* boost bass steered to the subwoofer from the main speakers -- incorrectly.


And that means you get an incorrect bass mix coming out of your set of speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

I haven't played with this HDMI Re-mapping for DVD-Audio discs option, but I presume that "xx" stands for the 2 rear channels that are not actually part of a 5.1 input.


So I would imagine that to move the Left Side Surround and Right Side Surround to the rear channels you would want to map incoming "lrs" to "xx".


Again I'm just guessing here.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I really, really wish the D2 could steer the redirected bass to one of the extra subwoofer outputs seperate from the LFE but I guess that is not possible in an eight channel Pre/Pro.







Those Lexicon guys are sneering at us.


----------



## obie_fl

I believe Nick told me a while back that some DVD-A players map the channels incorrectly on HDMI and those settings were put in as a bandaid.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

obie,

Sneer right back at them! Shell out that kind of money and they can't even switch 1080p, much less de-interlace or scale?


The nerve!


(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> But apparently the D2 and AVM-50 don't do the LFE boost for incoming analog 6-channel or HDMI PCM 6-channel. And that's why it is working right for the SACD discs you happen to own, but working wrong for your HD-DVD or Blue Ray discs decoded into HDMI PCM in the player!



I had a Denon Pre-Pro and Lexicon Pre-Pro before I ordered a D2.


The only time I found the LFE low out of my HD-A1 was 5.1 Analog.


I ran all 6 channels from the HD-A1 to a Rane SM-26B amplifier so I could

adjust the analog outputs before it got to the Pre-Pro.


But when I used HDMI input with 5.1 PCM decodes from the HD-A1 - I never

experienced the LFE decode being low. I think it happens on Analog only from

the HD-A1!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

obie,

Yes, the HDMI audio channel re-mapping function is intended *ONLY* for use with these peculiar DVD-Audio discs/players. If you feel you need to use it for any other reason, there is something else wrong with your setup.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> obie,
> 
> Sneer right back at them! Shell out that kind of money and they can't even switch 1080p, much less de-interlace or scale?
> 
> 
> The nerve!
> 
> 
> (grin!)
> 
> --Bob



BOY do I agree with Bob on that point.


I have had every version of Lexicon since the CP-1 to the MC-12B.


I just bought a D2 because of Lexicon's MC-12HD being very inferior.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Drhankz,

I believe the Denon and the Lexicon boost incoming HDMI PCM LFE by 10dB by default -- which will work fine unless you happen to play one of the "old" SACD discs from the PS3 or Oppo players that will send SACD as PCM over HDMI. Since those "old" SACD discs don't have LFE artificially lowered by 10dB in their mix, the result out your speakers will be 10dB hot in the LFE contribution to the subwoofer output.


The Denon and Lexicon probably do not boost the analog multi-channel LFE input. That's why you are experiencing low bass there.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Drhankz,
> 
> I believe the Denon and the Lexicon boost incoming HDMI PCM LFE by 10dB by default -- which will work fine unless you happen to play one of the "old" SACD discs from the PS3 or Oppo players that will send SACD as PCM over HDMI. Since those "old" SACD discs don't have LFE artificially lowered by 10dB in their mix, the result out your speakers will be 10dB hot in the LFE contribution to the subwoofer output.
> 
> 
> The Denon and Lexicon probably do not boost the analog multi-channel LFE input. That's why you are experiencing low bass there.
> 
> --Bob



I can't say right or wrong about Lexicon and Denon boosting LFE by default.


ALL I know is almost everyone complains about the HD-A1 LFE via Analog

as being LOW.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

randman,

I'm glad your re-install made the display timeouts work better for you, but I'm disturbed by the apparent ability of the Anthem to accept a firmware upgrade without complaint or error message and yet it still hasn't ACTUALLY been installed correctly.


This is not good. Not good at all.


---------------------------------------------------------------


That aside, I too have the 2x delay for the front panel, but I guess I have always viewed that as "normal".


What's going on is that the front panel goes to its "wake up" brightness each time it changes from one display to another. It then goes to your selected (dimmer) brightness after the time out.


Now watch closely what happens when you, say, change volume. The On Screen Display and the Front Panel both display the new volume. After a display timeout period the On Screen Display shuts off and the Front Panel display switches to its "default" content. But that's still new content so the Front Panel display remains at its "wake up" brightness.


After another display time out period, the Front Panel display -- still showing its "default" content -- now reverts to your selected, dimmer setting.


The net result is that the Front Panel is bright for 2x timeout periods, but that's only because it is displaying two different messages.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The net result is that the Front Panel is bright for 2x timeout periods, but that's only because it is displaying two different messages.
> 
> --Bob



Ah - someone at Anthem forgot to reset some software flag [GRIN]!


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> dc,
> 
> That's just the point. As I understand it, SACD recordings (at least some of them, maybe most) do *NOT* lower the "LFE" channel by 10dB in their mix to clear headroom for extra loud bangs without clipping -- thus requiring the pre-amp to re-boost the LFE by 10dB prior to output to the power amp to get everything back in line again.
> 
> 
> However HD-DVD and Blue Ray apparently do -- just as DD and DTS "bitstream" audio tracks already do. And, also apparently, some newer SACD discs also do to "fit in" with the other formats. I.e., not all SACD discs are created equal these days.
> 
> 
> Now the DD and DTS bitstreams from standard DVDs, HDTV, or the optical or coax digital audio "compatability" outputs of HD-DVD or Blue Ray get handled properly by EVERYBODY these days. The LFE track, decoded from the bitstream in the receiver or pre/pro, is boosted by 10dB before bass steering happens and also before output to the power amp. The incoming LFE signal doesn't clip, and everything is back in balance again before power amplification happens.
> 
> 
> But apparently the D2 and AVM-50 don't do the LFE boost for incoming analog 6-channel or HDMI PCM 6-channel. And that's why it is working right for the SACD discs you happen to own, but working wrong for your HD-DVD or Blue Ray discs decoded into HDMI PCM in the player!
> 
> 
> That means that *ALL* HD-DVD and Blue Ray tracks decoded by the player into HDMI PCM will appear weak in bass. Some SACD tracks will as well if you happen to get one of the "new" SACD discs that lower their LFE by 10dB as part of the mixing process.
> 
> 
> And there appears to be no way in the user settings for the D2 or AVM-50 to boost *JUST* the incoming LFE track by 10dB when the LFE comes in over 6-channel analog or HDMI PCM.
> 
> _*All that the D2 and AVM-50 provide are ways to boost the entire subwoofer output. This is true whether you boost sub, or lower everything except sub. That means you boost LFE correctly, but *ALSO* boost bass steered to the subwoofer from the main speakers -- incorrectly.*_
> 
> 
> And that means you get an incorrect bass mix coming out of your set of speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Just a lurker here looking to get an AVM-50 in the very near future. As such, I've been reading the manual during my daily commute.


I'm sure you know much more about the AVm-50 than I do, but I came across this in the manual on pg. 47 (AVM-50 v1.1):Surround Mode Levels: *Subwoofer Only:* Press Sub-LFE then adjust. *Pressing Sub-LFE twice* allows you to adjust the level of the ".1" LFE channel while leaving the base derived from the other channels unchanged.


Is this not the solution, or am I way off base (pun intended) here?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

KCWolfPck,

Yes, that was my first thought, too, until I actually tried it.


However, the LFE adjustment you refer to apparently only allows reduction of LFE (negative dB settings). You can't boost LFE, with this adjustment, above its default 0dB setting.


It is also described in the manual as being for reduction of bass if the bass track in the content is too aggressive.


-------------------------------------------------------------------


Now if the DEFAULT processing in the Anthem for the HDMI PCM LFE track were to boost it by 10dB, then this control might very well be the ticket for the cases where you might need to disable this boost -- e.g., the "original" SACD discs.


The issue over the analog mutli-channel input is more complicated, because it depends upon whether or not bass steering has already happened in the player.


See KMO's tutorial thread I referenced earlier.


The bottom line is that the analog multi-channel LFE track might need:


1) No boost at all -- as when playing "original style" SACD discs which treat this output as a musical subwoofer output and don't cut it by 10dB to prevent clipping of loud explostions, since there won't be any. OR


2) 10dB boost as when playing "new" SACD or any HD-DVD or Blue Ray where no bass steering has yet happened but where the LFE is already 10dB down in the content's audio track mix. OR


3) 15dB boost as when playing any of the above AFTER bass steering has happened IN THE PLAYER, due to an extra 5dB cut implemented in the player to keep the mixed bass (LFE plus steered bass) from clipping if both LFE and steered bass happen to be loud at the same time.

--Bob


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> KCWolfPck,
> 
> Yes, that was my first thought, too, until I actually tried it.
> 
> 
> However, the LFE adjustment you refer to apparently only allows reduction of LFE (negative dB settings). You can't boost LFE, with this adjustment, above its default 0dB setting.
> 
> 
> It is also described in the manual as being for reduction of bass if the bass track in the content is too aggressive.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now if the DEFAULT processing in the Anthem for the HDMI PCM LFE track were to boost it by 10dB, then this control might very well be the ticket for the cases where you might need to disable this boost -- e.g., the "original" SACD discs.
> 
> 
> The issue over the analog mutli-channel input is more complicated, because it depends upon whether or not bass steering has already happened in the player.
> 
> 
> See KMO's tutorial thread I referenced earlier.
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that the analog multi-channel LFE track might need:
> 
> 
> 1) No boost at all -- as when playing "original style" SACD discs which treat this output as a musical subwoofer output and don't cut it by 10dB to prevent clipping of loud explostions, since there won't be any. OR
> 
> 
> 2) 10dB boost as when playing "new" SACD or any HD-DVD or Blue Ray where no bass steering has yet happened but where the LFE is already 10dB down in the content's audio track mix. OR
> 
> 
> 3) 15dB boost as when playing any of the above AFTER bass steering has happened IN THE PLAYER, due to an extra 5dB cut implemented in the player to keep the mixed bass (LFE plus steered bass) from clipping if both LFE and steered bass happen to be loud at the same time.
> 
> --Bob



I wonder if the Music Speaker Configuration could be made to except different level adjustments versus the Cinema Speaker Configuration? This way you could assign the same source different inputs and different speaker configurations.


On a different note maybe you guys can help me make up my mind about something that I keep fence jumping on.

At present I have my D2's HDMI going into a Gefen splitter (1in 2out).

It works like a charm except my two displays are different native resolutions so I have to change Video Settings within the D2 each time I change displays.

Not a big deal......... but, life could be easier and a little better if I pull the trigger on a different display.

My current displays are:

Pearl (D2 + Pearl = Nirvana







) and

Panasonic 65" 7U the 3 year old version of their 65" plasma.

I have a new found respect for this display since the D2 and it's video processing has arrived in my system and improved the big Panny's picture noticeably for both HD and particularly SD content.

Now I'm thinking I could make life a little easier and probably get a better picture from my plasma, (how much better is the question????), if I spring for the new Panasonic 1080p 65"..... YES!

But how much better will the picture really be, that is the question









Going component to the plasma, while an option, really doesn't compare picture wise to the picture I get via the D2s HDMI output. Not sure why this is but it is and that's what lead me to picking up Gefen HDMI splitter. And if I use component to the plasma I can't watch or monitor HDMI sources on the plasma.

Making the video changes in the D2 when I switch displays is not a really big deal but does get annoying







For example if I don't change the setting before switching from Pearl (1080p) to the plasma then I have no picture on the plasma as it won't display anything when feed anything but 1080i or 720p. So I have to use the front panel display of the D2 or switch the Pearl back on to make changes.

You get the picture, right?

So bottom line,

I'm not unhappy with the picture quality of my present plasma

(via HDMI & the D2) but

I'm sure I'll prefer the 1080p plasma picture however

HOW MUCH BETTER IS IT ? ? ? ? ?

Most of my critical viewing is via the Pearl anyway

but then again most my regular viewing is via the Plasma

(probably a 70/30 split in favor of the plasma)


Sorry to go on and on (stop already!) OK

What would you guys (or girls I guess, funny how this is such a guys hobby... not complaining....I can't imagine golfing with spouses and such









So where was that bottom line, oh yeah

Stick with present plasma

save over $7k (new speakers... maybe)

or

Go for the 1080P ? ? ? ? ?


dc


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dc,

Buy a second D2?


OK, OK stop hitting me!


Personally I think the current crop of 1080p plasmas are a little scary. The manufacturing for these is so new that I can't help thinking these are early adopter products -- likely to be surpassed in significant ways as early as next year.


Since you've got the Pearl for critical viewing, my personal approach to this would be to wait until the middle of next year to see what comes next in 1080p plasmas. If the changes are not significant, THEN I'd start feeling that technology had stabilized to the point where buying one wouldn't lead to regrets too soon as newer products come out. Of course that means living with some inconvenience for 6 months.


On the other hand, if you are going to buy a new plasma anyway, I'm a big believer in going for a good 1080p solution. It's the place to be for all sorts of technology convergence reasons. This is entirely independent of whether your eye will actually be able to resolve that resolution on that size screen from your viewing distance.

--Bob


----------



## KMO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> e.g., the "original" SACD discs.



Just going to chip in here on this.


Any SACD disc which is mixed for a 10dB LFE gain "to fit in with other formats" is utterly wrong. It's as bad as the LFE gain bug in a receiver.


This would totally screw up the bass management in the player. It will end up summing the bass incorrectly, as players never seem to have an "LFE Level" setting to allow this to be corrected. On top of that, any decent universal SACD player will be lowering the LFE by 10dB before outputting it to match other formats, meaning you would then need a +20dB or +25dB boost in the receiver to get it right.


Please don't confuse the issue by suggesting there's been a shift in the design of SACD. There hasn't. There may have been some producers cocking up though.


Do let us know of any such discs with this problem. I've heard of one, which gets the panning it rightly deserves on its Amazon reviews .


----------



## KMO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that the analog multi-channel LFE track might need:
> 
> 
> 1) No boost at all -- as when playing "original style" SACD discs which treat this output as a musical subwoofer output and don't cut it by 10dB to prevent clipping of loud explostions, since there won't be any.



And just to clarify here on this specific case. Single-format SACD players will typically be like this through analogue interconnects. But universal multi-format players normally compensate for the different LFE content of SACD and other discs by lowering the LFE of SACD themselves by 10dB. Thus you don't need to adjust amplifier calibration when you put a different format disc in. +10dB/+15dB is correct for all formats.


This highlights the importance of standards. This sort of helpful behaviour only works if everyone agrees on the correct LFE level of an SACD disc. If some bright spark on a mixing desk decides that they're going to put in a 10dB drop themselves, it becomes a free-for-all. You can't have each stage in the reproduction process adding or removing 10dB at random - you could be 30dB out by the end.


The same should apply to HDMI. I'd expect any player outputting SACD, either as DSD or PCM, even if single format, to be lowering the LFE by 10dB to get correct BT.775 levels. Users should not have to be changing any settings on receivers with correctly mixed discs.



Oh, and there is a case 1a in your list:


1a) 5dB boost as when playing SACD discs as above in a single format player with bass steering, due to a 5dB cut implemented in the player to keep the mixed bass (LFE plus steered bass) from clipping if both LFE and steered bass happen to be loud at the same time.


That then accounts for all 4 subwoofer input options that Onkyo and Denon offer.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

KMO,

Thanks for the clarification! Standards notwithstanding, this issue is likely going to cause significant user confusion unless defaults are set right. That is, it's not enough that the player and receiver are capable of doing the right thing, they should be set, out of the box, to most likely be correct without further user intervention. Unfortunately that can't be automatic if the analog user has to make a different selection depending upon whether he's using a single format or universal player. But getting it right by default for HDMI should be possible, yes?


I think we're going to see quite a few posts on all this over the next year.


There's also going to be a real need for calibration discs that target this particular problem so that users have a way of verifying the correct LFE boost setting for any given configuration.


--------------------------------------------------------


By the way, I think it will be straightforward for Anthem to add this feature given the processing power of these products and Anthem's demonstrated ability to put out new software. It does surprise me, however, that they missed the boat on this to begin with.

--Bob


----------



## KMO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Unfortunately that can't be automatic if the analog user has to make a different selection depending upon whether he's using a single format or universal player.



SACD is rather unfortunate. I'd say it was a design error by Sony/Philips. They should have said that the LFE on SACD discs followed normal +10dB standards. But we're stuck with it.


Denon and Onkyo default their receivers to +15dB on the analogue subwoofer input, and I think that's correct. I'd prefer it if player manufacturers adjusted their outputs so they default to a +15dB gain being needed, regardless of disc format. And they should document that.



> Quote:
> But getting it right by default for HDMI should be possible, yes?



Yes, but we're going to have to nip this in the bud early. The only sensible receiver default for PCM LFE is a +10dB boost. But DSD complicates this.


The HDMI hardware spec, which is public, doesn't discuss channel levels. It references the standard CEA-861-D to define its upper layers, but I haven't seen this. I hope this unequivocally specifies standard ITU-R BR.1384-1 audio interchange parameters, which would mean that any LFE going across the link needs a +10dB gain.


This means an SACD player would have to lower the LFE by 10dB - non-trivial for DSD... Now, I've got a horrible feeling that some of the first HDMI 1.2 players that send DSD might not bother to do this, they might send the DSD raw, so the receiver would have to not boost. And will receivers that apply a +10dB boost to PCM LFE also apply it to DSD LFE? Who knows. This mess could equal what we've already seen.


If CEA-861-D doesn't specify channel levels, then we could end up with a defacto arrangement whereby PCM LFE over HDMI expects a 10dB boost, but DSD LFE over HDMI doesn't. This would be wrong-headed, but understandable, given current disc technology. But so much for HDMI being a general-purpose interconnect; it would rule out any future DSD-based format that _did_ want extended LFE range.


Presumably the Oppo and PS3 players that output SACD as PCM are lowering LFE by 10dB in the process... (as well as lowering the whole thing 3-6dB to allow for the lower headroom of PCM). Can anyone confirm?


> Quote:
> I think we're going to see quite a few posts on all this over the next year.



Oh yes...



> Quote:
> There's also going to be a real need for calibration discs that target this particular problem so that users have a way of verifying the correct LFE boost setting for any given configuration.



You can test it already with existing discs, like Avia and suchlike, if you make sure your player is set up for internal decode. We could prepare a guide on how to do it with those discs, watching out for confusion like the subwoofer test on Avia not being LFE-based.


But it may not be as easy as it should be. The easiest test would be an alternating tone or noise that jumps from LFE to centre, so the user can check that LFE's balanced correctly with the other channels for that format.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well it seems to me we are going to need a test for HD-DVD, a test for Blue Ray, a test for SACD, and a test for standard DVD (Dolby Digital should be enough). I suppose there needs to be one for DVD-Audio as well so that people can feel confident there is no problem there.


Of course for HD-DVD and Blue Ray, the assumption will be that if the setup is right for one codec, then it must also be right for any other codec. How this will play out if people really send bitstreams of the new codecs to new receivers over V1.3 I really don't know. I could easily see folks believing they've got it right for a codec that streams over (since, with it handled automatically, the LFE boost setting should probably be bypassed in that case), only to discover it is still wrong for one that is decoded in the player.


And if people hook up both HDMI and analog multi-channel from a single player, they'll have to test each way to be sure they know the right way to set their receiver depending on which way is selected at the moment.


And since people will experiment with bass steering happening in the player vs. in the receiver (and of course some will get it wrong and do it in both places or in neither), it needs to be made clear they have to retest according to their setup.


Unfortunately, people are likely to try combinations of steering setup and cabling that mean they don't have to make a manual change in the receiver according to what they are playing and how they are playing it. I think there's real potential for folks to miss out on the "best" setup in an effort to avoid having to adjust this LFE boost.

--Bob


----------



## randman

Anthem confirmed that the 2x timeout for the front panel is an issue and is working on a fix. Back in 1.06, my on-screen display and front panel both turned off at the same time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

randman,

Interesting! I could've sworn that 2x was the norm for the front panel all along. But if they put it to 1x, that's fine by me as well.

--Bob


----------



## KMO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well it seems to me we are going to need a test for HD-DVD, a test for Blue Ray, a test for SACD, and a test for standard DVD (Dolby Digital should be enough). I suppose there needs to be one for DVD-Audio as well so that people can feel confident there is no problem there.



Oh, absolutely. One will need a test disc in each format, with each codec.


> Quote:
> And if people hook up both HDMI and analog multi-channel from a single player, they'll have to test each way to be sure they know the right way to set their receiver depending on which way is selected at the moment.



A decent receiver won't need manual intervention as you change source/input. It will have separate _LFE Level_ and _SW Input Level_ settings. But they'll need to be set up correctly initially. I strongly advise manufacturer defaults of +10dB and +15dB respectively. Full marks to Denon for getting this totally right by default, whilst also offering manual overrides.


> Quote:
> And since people will experiment with bass steering happening in the player vs. in the receiver (and of course some will get it wrong and do it in both places or in neither), it needs to be made clear they have to retest according to their setup.



Yep. I'd prefer it if players with bass management always needed a +15dB boost, rather than switching between +10dB and +15dB depending on speaker size. (Obscure or what?) Behaviour appears to be mixed. And I note that Denon players have some sort of "PURE AUDIO" setting that also removes the normal 10dB lowering for SACD, just to complicate things










> Quote:
> Unfortunately, people are likely to try combinations of steering setup and cabling that mean they don't have to make a manual change in the receiver according to what they are playing and how they are playing it. I think there's real potential for folks to miss out on the "best" setup in an effort to avoid having to adjust this LFE boost.



Well, that would be me. I'm not prepared to go in and manually fiddle with calibration settings between discs. I'm going to insist on a player/receiver/interconnect combination that can be calibrated to be right in all circumstances, so I never have to touch it again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

KMO,

The Anthems also have a processed and unprocessed mode for analog inputs, including the multi-channel analog.

--Bob


----------



## Kris Deering

For Dolby and DTS levels you should use the internal test tones for setting channel levels as that is where the bitstreams are decoded.


For PCM I use the Chesky demo disc to set my levels. That has worked fine for HD DVD/Blu-Ray/DVD-A/SACD since all of those sources are going in to my D2 as PCM via HDMI. I have not had any issues with channel balance at all so far. I just use the trims to adjust from my baseline when using the Chesky disc.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Kris,

Are you running "large" main speakers with your D2? If not, how do you separately adjust incoming LFE on HDMI PCM without also screwing up the level of bass steered to the subwoofer from your mains?


LFE needs to be boosted BEFORE steered bass gets mixed in.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well from the silence from the HD-DVD, Blue Ray and SACD crowd here regarding the ability of the D2 and AVM-50 to properly deal with the LFE boost issue over 6 channel analog or HDMI 6 channel PCM inputs (obie_fl excepted), I have to conclude that the problem exists and that there really is no solution as of the V1.11 software. Right?
> 
> 
> People really are experiencing low bass from these, right?
> 
> 
> And there really is no way to set the D2 or AVM-50 to boost JUST the LFE channel by the necessary 10dB (or possibly 15dB for analog) without also incorrectly boosting steered bass coming from the mains, right?
> 
> 
> Which means, at the very least, that if any of your main speakers are "small" you will get an improper bass mix, right?
> 
> 
> As such, shouldn't we stop recommending the D2 or AVM-50 as appropriate for the best quality audio listening experience for HD-DVD, Blue Ray and SACD until Anthem adds the necessary feature in new software?
> 
> --Bob



Greetings.


Sorry guys I have missed part of this thread over the last week or so. I have no problems relative to low bass output via bitstream or analog. This would include HDMI and 5.1 channel output from an SACD player.


I have the following:


Oppo 970HD - HDMI - DVD video/audio - bitstream

Toshiba HD-A1 HD DVD - HDMI - PCM decoded by player

Panasonic DMP-BD10 blu-ray - HDMI - PCM decoded by player

Scientific Atlanta 8300HD - HDMI - bitstream

Sony SACD - 5.1 channel analog



Bob, can you summarize the problem that others are having?


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ralph,

The problem is reports of low bass from HD-DVD and Blue Ray for audio decoded in the player and sent to the D2 via HDMI PCM.


Apparently SACD via HDMI PCM from the Oppo does not have this problem.


The reports are that people are having to boost their subwoofer level in the D2 to get bass up to proper levels, but that won't work for folks with "small" main speakers because what needs to be done is to boost the incoming LFE channel without also boosting bass steered to the subwoofer from the mains. There appears to be no way to do this in the D2.


See the following thread for more info on this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=748147 


It is also not clear, I suppose, what the D2 is doing for analog multi-channel input if the player both decodes and bass steers, or if the player simply decodes and leaves it to the D2 to bass steer.


It appears the D2 needs an additional option to boost incoming HDMI PCM or analog multi-channel LFE (only) by 0dB, 5dB, 10dB, or 15dB to cover all the possibilities.


Apparently the existing LFE trim control (two presses of the subwoofer button on the remote) only allows for LFE to be cut -- not boosted.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Has anyone emailed Nick to get Anthem's "official" take on this BM issue? Seems like most of it could be overcome if the LFE Trim could boost.


----------



## KMO

Presumably this unit gets its own internal DD decode correct, right? With its LFE level set to "0dB"? Then the PCM input just needs to be adjusted to match: "0dB" should mean a +10dB boost. You don't need to add positive settings to the user control.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

obie,

I have not because I don't have either HD-DVD or Blue Ray set up yet, and thus I can't confirm the precise circumstances where the bass is low.


Apparently Kris is seeing low bass over HDMI PCM, but Ralph is not?


I'm confused.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I have another HDMI 1.3 question. I am asking here because this will have an impact on my decision to purchase an Anthem or to wait:


In speaking with someone about the HDMI 1.3 and it's application to the new HD audio codecs, I explained that my understanding was that having HDMI 1.3 wouldn't matter because if the movie was encoded in the "advanced" mode, the player MUST internally decode the new codec before sending it to the receiver.


I was told that this was only partially correct, in that this only applies to Dolby Digital TrueHD and that it does NOT apply to the new DTS codecs such as DTS-HD and Master Audio.


Clarification/confirmation would be appreciated!


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> obie,
> 
> I have not because I don't have either HD-DVD or Blue Ray set up yet, and thus I can't confirm the precise circumstances where the bass is low.
> 
> 
> Apparently Kris is seeing low bass over HDMI PCM, but Ralph is not?
> 
> 
> I'm confused.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,



> Quote:
> For PCM I use the Chesky demo disc to set my levels. That has worked fine for HD DVD/Blu-Ray/DVD-A/SACD since all of those sources are going in to my D2 as PCM via HDMI. I have not had any issues with channel balance at all so far. I just use the trims to adjust from my baseline when using the Chesky disc.



Bob, from Kris' post above I would say that he is NOT having any problems either. For those with universal type players or players with internal bass mangement who are using the analog outputs, all the speakers settings should be set to large. This will pass the signal through to the Anthem full range. The Anthem will then handle BM/time alignment. Setting the player up with small speakers for any of them will cause it to apply BM. The Anthem will do a much better job at this than the player will. Using BM in both the player and then the Anthem is certainly going to cause confusion.


Like Kris I send the signal from both of my high def players to the Anthem via HDMI/PCM. As I stated earlier, I have had no problems with low bass output. If those that have could report here what settings they are using within the player as well as the Anthem and how they are connected it may be a start.


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ralph,

Yes, speaker settings in the player (if any) should be "large". That's a given. You only want bass management to happen in one place, and that place should be inside the D2 even on the multi-channel analog inputs.


The problem is that if the speakers are "small" as set in the D2, and if you need to boost just LFE (and not also boost bass steered by the D2) to get proper bass volume, there is apparently no way to do that in the D2.


----------------------------------------------


I read Kris' post as saying he DID have to adjust bass from his normal "baseline" settings, i.e., the baseline derived from the D2's internal test tones, to get his test disc to play bass correctly.


Kris could you confirm one way or the other?


----------------------------------------------


Obie, I believe you are reporting low bass, right? What settings are you using in the player and Anthem?


Folks this is what I've been trying to extract for several posts now. Who, if anyone, is experiencing low bass from these PCM formats? And can we confirm or debunk the idea that the D2 actually has a problem here that needs fixing?


If Anthem has actually implemented what KMO suggested -- a 10dB boost by default on HDMI PCM LFE and a 15dB boost by default on multi-channel analog LFE -- then NOBODY should be hearing low bass.


On the other hand, SOME folks probably should be using the LFE cut feature in the D2 for those cases where either a 0dB or 5dB boost is actually correct. And so far we've had no reports of that!


For example, Ralph, KMO's reporting suggests your standalone Sony SACD player should require no boost over multi-channel analog.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

We won't know "for sure" what's going on with the new DTS formats for a while.


Here's how I understand it: The *DISC* format (i.e., HD-DVD or Blue Ray) establishes the rules. The rules are that if your disc is authored for "advanced content" then it must be decoded in the player. Any codec maker who limits the use of his codec to non-"advance content" authoring -- so as to guarantee that decoding in the receiver will always work with HDMI V1.3 or higher -- will likely be at a disadvantage in the marketplace since the other competing codecs will be considered to be more fully featured.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE

Bob.


I don't see any weak bass output in my room also. While listening to Apollo 13 launch sequence (HD-DVD), I had to actually lower the bass output manually since my projector was vibrating. It was the first time I got this phenomena in my room.


And when swapping between SACDs, regular standard DVDs or HD DVDs, I don't need to do any adjustment manually.


The 2 Paradigm Signature Servos are probably helping alot though...


----------



## obie_fl

I have to revisit all the BM scenarios. I only had time to do a quick cal using the Anthem internal tones this past weekend. If I recall correctly when I played the internal LFE tones from the Toshiba HD DVD it may have actually been too high. This is the opposite of what is supposed to happen correct? My Pioneer only outputs tones through the analog and not HDMI. Like I said I was in a rush and will have to revisit it later as I'm out of town for the next two weeks. BM issues always make my head hurt as there are so many configurations and variables.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,



> Quote:
> I read Kris' post as saying he DID have to adjust bass from his normal "baseline" settings, i.e., the baseline derived from the D2's internal test tones, to get his test disc to play bass correctly.




B


> Quote:
> For PCM I use the Chesky demo disc to set my levels. That has worked fine for HD DVD/Blu-Ray/DVD-A/SACD since all of those sources are going in to my D2 as PCM via HDMI. I have not had any issues with channel balance at all so far. I just use the trims to adjust from my baseline when using the Chesky disc.



Bob, according to the above post by Kris he says "I have not had any issues with channel balance at all so far".


I cannot speak for Kris however I interpret his post above to mean that he uses the channel level trims to ensure proper overall level consistency while playing the test tones from the Chesky disc through his player's analog output. The output from the player may not exactly match channel for channel those on the Anthem and thus needs to be "snugged" up. I do the same thing. If I get a chance tonight I will give Kris a call and discuss this with him


I agree that there is no way to boost the LFE signal in the Anthem and perhpas that should be looked into under the circumstances. As I have previously stated this has not been an issue for me via HDMI or analog audio.



Regards,


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> We won't know "for sure" what's going on with the new DTS formats for a while.
> 
> 
> Here's how I understand it: The *DISC* format (i.e., HD-DVD or Blue Ray) establishes the rules. The rules are that if your disc is authored for "advanced content" then it must be decoded in the player. Any codec maker who limits the use of his codec to non-"advance content" authoring -- so as to guarantee that decoding in the receiver will always work with HDMI V1.3 or higher -- will likely be at a disadvantage in the marketplace since the other competing codecs will be considered to be more fully featured.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, much appreciated!


----------



## LEVESQUE

I was able to get some informations about the Room-eq that will soon be available for the D2.


First, the software will be free, and a simple download on Anthem internet site. Each mic will be calibrated in an anachoic chamber and will come with correction tables working only with that mic.


So the price of the upgrade will only be the price that a dealer will charge to perform the room-eq calibration with mic and software. So it will be up to the dealer. So a dealer will be able to buy only 1 mic and calibrate alot of D2s with it, since the software will be free.


I'm not sure, but probably that end-users will be able to buy the mic and correction tables also. I need to confirm that with Nick though.


He was talking about 600-700$ for the mic (good mics can cost alot more... and don't forget that they will be all individually calibrated in a anachoic chamber.. a big plus!). But price is still not firm. So don't insist on that point, I don't know what the price will be!










The PC software will be free. So all you need is a PC with a soundcard, and then loading the settings in the D2.


I don't know more then that. And if you send an e-mail to Nick, he will tell you the same thing.


With Room-eq on top of HDMI 1.1, a world class Gennum VXP scaler and all the new 1.10 features , the D2 is really going to be the ultimate pre/pro on the market...


----------



## bluemark81

*Recommendations for Cinema Speaker Configuration*


I know alot depends on room acoustics, but I am looking for some recommendations for Cinema Speaker Configuration from others who may have a similar speakers in their system I am using all V3.0 Studios except for my side surrounds.


For music, I am only using my main channels with no sub.


Main's 60's;

Center 470;

Rears 20's;

Sides, Mini Monitors;

Sub Seismic 10;

Pre/Pro Anthem AVM50;

Amp Anthem PVA7;


Thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Personally, I'm disappointed by the idea that the Anthem Room EQ will require an external PC hardware/software environment to calibrate rather than being driven by new software within the hardware of the Anthem itself.


Yes, I know you only need the PC to establish the settings to load into the Anthem -- much like you need a light sensor and signal generators to do ISF video calibration -- but room audio characteristics are more likely to be changed than video characteristics. I'm really not thrilled with having to maintain the PC software and hardware environment to re-calibrate. Nor do I think the Anthem dealer network is strong enough to expect this is going to be sufficiently easy to get done by paying a dealer to do it as often as might be necessary.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The "on the fly" LFE cut feature available from the remote control (two presses of the Sub/LFE button, and then up and down arrows to adjust) allows cutting LFE independent of any bass steered to the subwoofer from the main speakers in the range of 0dB to -10.0dB in steps of 0.5dB. LFE can not be boosted with this feature, only cut.


This setting is, I believe memorized per audio processing mode -- and possibly also per input but I'm not sure of that. It is not, I believe, stored in the saved settings memories -- meaning that if you save settings, restore factory defaults, and restore saved settings it will be automatically reset to 0dB (no cut) for all audio modes and inputs. And also if it is changed by mistake and is supposed to be less than 0dB for your preferred use, you will not be able to restore it automatically simply by restoring saved settings. It will require a manual reset.


If we decide that Anthem has the "default" LFE boosts correct for the HDMI PCM LFE channel (+10dB by default seems to be the only viable candidate here) and for the analog multi-channel input (possibly +15dB by default), then this additional LFE adjustment will enable the PCM LFE boost to be cut all the way to 0dB -- which is the most cut you should ever need. For the analog multi-channnel LFE, however, the LFE boost can only be reduced to a net of +5dB.


Now I still don't have a handle on whether +15dB is correct on the analog *FOR THE ANTHEM* given that the Anthem can do full processing on the analog multi-channel inputs -- including full bass management -- and thus there is no need to set the player to do any bass management on its own (which is where the extra 5dB of needed boost comes from -- see KMO's tutorial thread previously referenced). If I understand what's going on here, and my confidence is low on this, I believe the correct default for the Anthem, when the Anthem is set to do bass management on the analog multi-channel input, and the player's bass management is properly disabled, should only be +10db -- just as with the PCM LFE. In which case an Anthem "on the fly" cut of -10dB from there gives all the flexibility we need.


So the bottom line is getting the confidence that the default LFE boost in the Anthem really is set right for both forms of incoming LFE.


At this point, it looks like we are developing consenus that the Anthem does *NOT* experience problematic, weak bass, for any disc format for any input, and quite possibly also for any player (which is extra surprising). I.e., *NOBODY* has found the need to boost Anthem subwoofer output for any disc format for any input for any player, correct? Kris? Obie? The error would be at least 10dB so it should not be subtle if it exists.


This would actually be VERY good news if it pans out.


The issue of precisely what boost is present on the analog input is still open, as is the description of precisely when users should anticipate needing to use the LFE cut feature to remove the built-in, default LFE boost based on some combo of source disc format, input cabling type, and player type -- always assuming the players will be set to disable their own bass management in deference to the Anthem's own bass management.


------------------------------------------------------------------------


Please, if *ANY* D2 or AVM-50 user is experiencing weak bass in these situations -- weak enough that you've been tempted to boost the Anthem subwoofer settings for a specific disc format from a specific player over a specific type of cabling -- please post the problematic configuration and your settings so we can help determine if this is a real problem or just some user error. I was under the impression that we had numerous users experiencing this, but the current responses belie that concern.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob.
> 
> 
> I don't see any weak bass output in my room also. While listening to Apollo 13 launch sequence (HD-DVD), I had to actually lower the bass output manually since my projector was vibrating. It was the first time I got this phenomena in my room.
> 
> 
> And when swapping between SACDs, regular standard DVDs or HD DVDs, I don't need to do any adjustment manually.
> 
> 
> The 2 Paradigm Signature Servos are probably helping alot though...



Count me in as another D2 owner with no apparent bass output problems. I play a lot of SACD's and DVD-A's in my Pioneer DV-79AVi, and SD and HD-DVD's in my Toshiba HD-A1. I am something of a bass fanatic, with two SVS subs EQ'd with the REQ software on a laptop PC, tied into a Behringer Feedback Destroyer as my sub equalizer. I have 4 custom EQ curves for my room that I built for different source needs. So you can see that I have done a lot of calibrating and tweaking and tend to pick up any bass discrepancies in my system pretty quickly. So far, I have found none.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

mlbrand,

Are you using multi-channel analog from the 79avi for SACD and DVD-Audio, and HDMI PCM for HD-DVD from the Toshiba? And are your bass configuration settings (essentially) identical for both -- i.e., nothing as dramatic as a 10dB boost of one compared to the other?

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Bob beat me to it I am also disappointed that the software runs on the PC. How is this any different then something like RoomEQ Wizard where you take measurements and upload them to an equalizer? I have an R-DES unit that requires a PC interface and was really hoping to get away from that. I've been intrigued by TACT but was scared away due to their reliance on PCs although I think their latest models can actually do standalone corrections. I hope the firmware is more then just some additional notch filters and the PC software more then just an RTA.


----------



## randman

Well, I already have an HTPC in the same room as my D2 (connected to my D2 & projector), so I can live with the EQ... although it would be easier if it were integrated into the D2; but, if the software is good and provides good tweaking capability and saving settings on the PC, that would be one good reason to do it in the PC... Hopefully the mike won't be that expensive. I'd prefer to do the EQ myself... I don't think my dealer would offer that kind of service, and if they did, not sure how good they would be at it.... It's good to be able to tweak things at will, and being able to do it w/o the dealer is much more preferable.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> mlbrand,
> 
> Are you using multi-channel analog from the 79avi for SACD and DVD-Audio, and HDMI PCM for HD-DVD from the Toshiba? And are your bass configuration settings (essentially) identical for both -- i.e., nothing as dramatic as a 10dB boost of one compared to the other?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I can't use an HDMI connection (no HDMI display







), so I am using multi-channel analog outs from the 79avi AND from the HD-A1 as well. I also use the digital optical output from both units for SD-DVD's. My only bass adjustment is a +2 boost for my cinema settings.


----------



## obie_fl

Hopefully you can use your own mic too, a Behringer ECM-8000 calibrated is under $200. I wonder just how elaborate the firmware and software really is. Is it strictly frequency amplitude correction or does correct time domain errors too? I guess Anthem wasn't scared away from the PC requirement by all the problems people had updating their firmware on non standard serial setups. Getting this new software setup up on a variety of sound cards is going to be interesting and I fear a support nightmare. I have no interest in trying to turn this over to dealer to do.


----------



## obie_fl

mlbrand - Why can't you use HDMI for audio and component for video? Seems like a waste especially since you have two sets of analog inputs. Do you have a 5.1 switcher? You also avoid an extra A/D conversion with HDMI.


----------



## Unclejeff

whew. The thread has become a bit esoteric. So, we get the mic...run it through the PC and will the human ear be happy?


----------



## bluemark81

Recommendations for Cinema Speaker Configuration


I know alot depends on room acoustics, but I am looking for some recommendations for Cinema Speaker Configuration from others who may have a similar speakers in their system I am using all V3.0 Studios except for my side surrounds.


For music, I am only using my main channels with no sub.


Main's 60's;

Center 470;

Rears 20's;

Sides, Mini Monitors;

Sub Seismic 10;

Pre/Pro Anthem AVM50;

Amp Anthem PVA7;


Thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

UncleJeff,

Well the human ear is pretty durned happy already!


Apparently the idea is that you download the (free) software for a PC, match it up with a PC sound card of some variety, buy a calibrated microphone from Anthem, run the software according to Anthem's guidelines and the PC generates test tones through the Anthem to the speakers which are picked up by the microphone.


[Step #2, a miracle occurs.]


The net result is a set of room correction settings which need to be transferred into new software in the Anthem. And yes that should produce a happier ear.


Step #2 is the fun part. The question is how easy all this will be (completely automatic, assisted so that mere mortals can use it effectively, or so complicated that only a trained audio tech will know how to use it effectively). There are also different levels of room EQ complexity -- i.e., just how much they ask the box to do when the new settings are installed. It will be interesting to see how far Anthem takes this.


And if the process is automated, an additional question is how good it gets all by itself, or will careful manual tweaking make the result better.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

bluemark81,

Some of this stuff is pretty cut and dried right? Place your speakers where you want them, describe what you've got to the Anthem, enter the distances to your main listening position into the Anthem, and set the level calibrations so they are all at the same volume.


For the start, set all the speakers to small for Cinema and set the mains and subwoofer cross-over at 80Hz. Leave the Center speaker EQ and the Room Resonance filter in their default (OFF) setting. I don't believe your subwoofer is THX Ultra 2 so don't turn on that setting in the Room resonance menu.


For the music configuration, if you prefer not to use the sub, remove it from the configuration and change your Left and Right front speakers to "large".


Now listen to what you've got and refine from there! You can use the test tones in the Room Resonance Filter menu to see how bass is working in your room at various frequencies. If you have problems with bass peaks or dips you can adjust by moving the subwoofer a bit, or by using the Room Resonance Filter or by using the Advanced speaker config options to set different crossover points. Experiment and see what happens to bass response. This takes some time.


If speech sounds muddy, try experimenting with the Center speaker EQ filter.


You should have a pretty good sounding setup by this point. Room treatment may help deal with any problems that remain.


Life gets more complicated if you want to automatically switch your Music surround speakers to be the rear speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In case you folks haven't noticed, there's a report in a related thread here that Anthem is now issuing RMA #'s for people to return a D1 and purchase an upgrade to a D1-HD.

--Bob


----------



## DOBE

This situatation with bandwidth and cables is diificult for me to wrap my head around. Sorry.


HDMI v.1.0 has a maximum bandwidth of 165MHz and a maximum bitrate of 4.9Gbps and passes two-channel audio only.


HDMI 1.1 will pass a maximum permissible total bitrate of 9.6 Megabits per second. Channel/resolution combinations that would exceed this need to be compressed. In uncompressed modes, it's possible to get up to 96/16 or 48/24 in 5.1, and 192/24 in stereo [no uncompressed 192/24 in 5.1?].


HDMI 1.3 Increases single-link bandwidth to 340 Mhz (10.2 Gbps)



> Quote:
> UPSAMPLING: Increases the sampling rate of the incoming digital signal. This allows the reconstruction filter to operate at a higher frequency, making it less intrusive in the audible bandwidth. While outboard Upsamplers can be purchased as an add-on component, their output is restricted to a maximum of 96 kHz due to the *bandwidth limitation*of (RCA/Toslink) and AES/EBU digital connections. When outboard Upsamplers are used with SSPs or separate DACs capable of 192 kHz *they will, in reality, never operate at better than 96 kHz*. In addition, they only operate on 2-channel PCM, not on decoded Dolby® Digital or DTS® program material.
> 
> 
> The D2 includes its own built-in state-of-the-art Upsampler incorporating Analog Devices' AD 1896 and converts the sample rate of all incoming digital signals to 192 kHz. Since this is done completely inside the D2 there are no digital connections to limit the upsampling frequency. Our D/A converters then operate at their full 192 kHz capability. And unique to the D2, our Upsampler also operates on all decoded Dolby® Digital and DTS® program material.



Assuming I connect a Blu-ray that decodes some form of HD audio into a lossless PCM audio stream, which is then transmitted over an HDMI 1.1 cable into the D2, then doesn't that digital lossless stream need to be converted into an analog signal ... so it can be transmitted to the amp(s) and then the speakers through old fashioned analog speaker wires.


In my case I have M&K 150P (powered) speakers which are currently connected to a preamp via RCA cables. Don't the RCA cables (one per speaker) have limited bandwidth? They would never transmit more than 96Khz to the M&K amps would they? Even if I used XLR cables, that wouldn't increase the bandwidth (KHz capability) would it?


I'm just concerned that inspite of all the large numbers (192/24), the ultimate bandwidth being delivered to the final producers of sound, analog amps and speakers, will be limited by the bandwidth of the RCA or XLR connections to the amp(s). Thanks.


----------



## Milt99

I'm a little surprised that people are already disappointed with the Anthem's EQ implementation before much of anything is really known about it.

I'm willing to give them the benefit of the doubt and assume that like the D2, it will be a high-end, effective solution resulting in a real world improvement at a reasonable price when compared to the existing alternatives.

Time will tell.


----------



## obie_fl

Dobe I believe HDMI can support 8-channel, 192kHz, uncompressed digital audio. I'm not familar with the M&K 150P but does it have a digital amp and interface? If not it is analog and you are comparing apples and oranges. Analog audio requires much less bandwidth then a digital signal. That is unless you can hear 9.6Mhz.


----------



## obie_fl

Milt - You are correct time will tell. I'm just disappointed about the PC angle and a concern that this is going to require a Pro to come in and do the calibration. I've been holding off on setting up an RTA on my PC for this very reason, because I had assumed the Anthem would be an integrated solution. Maybe the software will be the be all end all in room EQ.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> mlbrand - Why can't you use HDMI for audio and component for video? Seems like a waste especially since you have two sets of analog inputs. Do you have a 5.1 switcher? You also avoid an extra A/D conversion with HDMI.



I am under the assumption that since I do not have an HDMI compatible display, the HDMI audio output from my sources would not work either. I thought that the failed "handshake" would effectively shut off everything from the HDMI output. If this is not correct let me know! I cobbled together and am using a cheap 5.1 analog audio switcher, that is working OK, but obviously not the best scenario. BTW my sources are a Toshiba HD-A1 and a Pioneer 79AVi.


----------



## THX Mode

Hi mlbrand,


This may be a shot in the dark - but have you tried turning the HDMI repeater off in the Anthem setup?


----------



## obie_fl

I play DVD-As and CDs on my 79AVi via HDMI with the display off all the time. Try the repeater mode off like THX says. I haven't tried with my Toshiba A1 though.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dobe,

These high audio sampling rates (192KHz) you are talking about are only an issue in the digital domain. Analog representation of audio can be safely limited to the upper limits of human hearing, which is quite a bit below that.


For more information on what's going on here, see this post I made earlier in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...64#post8079464 


The bottom line is that once the fully processed digital signal is finally converted to analog for power amplification you no longer need to maintain 192Khz bandwidth.

--Bob


[edit for typos.]


----------



## KMO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now I still don't have a handle on whether +15dB is correct on the analog *FOR THE ANTHEM* given that the Anthem can do full processing on the analog multi-channel inputs -- including full bass management -- and thus there is no need to set the player to do any bass management on its own (which is where the extra 5dB of needed boost comes from -- see KMO's tutorial thread previously referenced). If I understand what's going on here, and my confidence is low on this, I believe the correct default for the Anthem, when the Anthem is set to do bass management on the analog multi-channel input, and the player's bass management is properly disabled, should only be +10db -- just as with the PCM LFE. In which case an Anthem "on the fly" cut of -10dB from there gives all the flexibility we need.



It depends on the player, to be honest. Some always need a +15dB boost, some switch between a 10dB and 15dB boost. Some SACD players might need a 0dB or 5dB boost.


Denon receivers offer 0dB, 5dB, 10dB and 15dB, and default to 15dB. Onkyo do the same, but reverse the labelling. 0dB (ie 15dB boost) is the default, and they then let you lower it by up to 15dB.


As long as you've got adjustments in that range, you'll be fine. Whether the out-of-the-box default should be 10dB or 15dB, I'm not too bothered, but you may need to be able to provide 15dB for some players. And some people may want to do bass management in the player (eg SACD players with DSD/DXD bass management?).


----------



## LEVESQUE

Everything I said about room-eq is not set in stone, and everything can change anytime. It's preliminary info only.


Cost, mic, software, dealer, end-user... nothing is set in stone. We will know more in the upcoming weeks. Since they were able to solve almost all the HDMI issues lately, they are now working hard on the room-eq update.


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Everything I said about room-eq is not set in stone, and everything can change anytime. It's preliminary info only.
> 
> 
> Cost, mic, software, dealer, end-user... nothing is set in stone. We will know more in the upcoming weeks. Since they were able to solve almost all the HDMI issues lately, they are now working hard on the room-eq update.



Excellent, thanks for keeping us posted Levesque.

I'm confident whatever Anthem comes up with for room EQ will be top notch and among the best out there. Most of the available room EQs out there right now are more of a negative feature, sound quality wise, than actually addressing better sound within a given listening enviroment.


dc


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Excellent, thanks for keeping us posted Levesque.
> 
> I'm confident whatever Anthem comes up with for room EQ will be top notch and among the best out there. Most of the available room EQs out there right now are more of a negative feature, sound quality wise, than actually addressing better sound within a given listening enviroment.



Since the people programming the Anthem pre/pros were working for the NRC before, I'm pretty sure it will be something surprisingly powerful, and probably be the new "best out there"...


I remember well 1 year ago when some nay-sayers were telling us that Gennum VXP was not that good, that it was a bad choice, that it was the "low cost" solution, and that the Realta HQV was the best out there, the king of the county, and blah blah blah...


After 1 year, we now see that the Crystalio II (top-of-the-line from PixelMagic) and the upcoming top-of-the-line Lumagen are BOTH using Gennum VXP, and NOT Realta... Same thing with the newest and upcoming high-end projectors from JVC, Marantz and alot of others...


So Anthem made the right choice with the best chip out there 1 year ago, and I'm sure the room-eq feature will do the same thing, again...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

From a user perspective, I suppose I'd like to see a combo EQ solution much like they are now doing with video.


1) Have the calibrated microphone connect directly to the D2 -- e.g., by temporarily connecting it via one of the 2-channel XLR inputs. The calibration table for the microphone would likely to have to be loaded into the D2 from a PC -- a separate file from the normal firmware install. Choosing the distribution media for delivering that file will be interesting. Most new PCs don't have floppy disc drives for example. I suppose one way would be for Anthem to maintain a database on their web site for EQ customers -- enter your mic serial # and the file you need to download will be presented to you. The microphone should come with an adequately long cable for normal listening room setups. Folks who have the D2 in a different room will have trouble using this, however. [NOTE: This is the only good argument I can think of for having the mic connected to a PC. But the test tone signals from the PC would still have to be cabled to the D2 so what's the difference?]


2) Have all test tones generated by the D2 so that there is no need to worry about any external sound card.


3) Have the D2 implement all of the Room EQ settings internally during normal listening -- no external hardware needed during normal listening.


4) Have the D2 implement a user interface for Room EQ that allows access to all features intelligent users can be expected to deal with on their own.


5) More complicated features, or features involving any additional test tools or external signal generators could then be safely relegated to a separate PC program that allows for more customized Room EQ settings to be developed and loaded into the D2.


6) Any automated features should result in settings the user can tweak without having to start from scratch. This is particularly important for folks who may need to come up with compromise settings for less than perfect listening rooms -- e.g., the "correct" settings differ significantly according to seating position within the room.


7) The built-in user interface (at the very least) should protect novice users from accidentally stumbling into bad or dangerous solutions -- e.g. a substantial boost overlayed on top of a substantial cut at the same point.


8) Multiple Room EQ setting memories so that users can readily test one possible solution against another or can adjust for expected room variations -- e.g., curtains open/closed or doors open/closed to connecting areas.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE

The PC software will only be a part of the full implementation. It's not only an external PC software solution... Like Bob said, it will be a "combo" solution.


To do what Anthem wanted to do since the fist day they taught about room-eq a couple of years ago, you need both the processing of the pre/pros AND a PC...


Anthem are already doing it with Live Video Settings Editor and all the PC applications that we can now use with the D2/AVM50. They will do the same thing with the room-eq.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anthem are already doing it with Live Video Settings Editor and all the PC applications that we can now use with the D2/AVM50. They will do the same thing with the room-eq.




Sounds GOOD to ME. As us Marketeers say *"SHIP IT"*


I imagine I will see a demo at CES!


----------



## yatchaks

Bob,


I wonder if the Velodyne DD microphone (with adapter to fit smaller mic input) will work with PC/Mac room correction?


The Velo mic is made for eq purposes, and is of very good quality.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

yatchaks,

Yes, but I don't know that they've actually QA'ed the Velodyne mic for frequencies much above 200Hz. That is, any given sample of that mic might have a problem at say 10Khz, and Velodyne's manufacturing QA wouldn't particularly care.

--Bob


----------



## BonesF15

With the new eq function on the D2 will subwoofer eq's like the sms-1 be redundant?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

BonesF15,

Could be, but I'm betting the two will complement each other. Use a dedicated bass EQ solution to handle the usual, gross errors in room bass, and then let the Anthem's EQ -- covering both bass and above -- refine things further.


You can ask the same question about room treatment. If you don't treat the room the Anthem's EQ should work nicely. If you do treat the room it should work even better.


One important point, though. To use the Anthem and the Velodyne stuff together, the Anthem's test signals must ALSO produce bass steered through both the mains and the subwoofer.


If not, then you will have to do the Anthem stuff with the Velodyne set to neutral, AND THEN add the Velodyne stuff on top of that. And that might not be the best use of whatever resources the Anthem can bring to bear in the bass region.

--Bob


----------



## randman

Do we know that the D2 EQ will actually support the 20Hz - 20Khz frequency range? In the past, I thought Anthem felt that the only readily correctible frequencies were the bass frequencies, a similar viewpoint shared by Lexicon and Meridian.


Having to rely on a soundcard can be a pain, given that there's so many different kinds of sound cards out there (hard enough to try to find a USB/Serial adapter). My HTPC's soundard is connected to my D2 via an optical cable (and analog output connected to small speakers when I don't want to turn on the D2 just for some PC usage). But, given the plethora of sound cards out there, this can complicate things.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Milt - You are correct time will tell. I'm just disappointed about the PC angle and a concern that this is going to require a Pro to come in and do the calibration. I've been holding off on setting up an RTA on my PC for this very reason, because I had assumed the Anthem would be an integrated solution. Maybe the software will be the be all end all in room EQ.



Having used both an auto-EQ receiver based solution, and a PC Software (REQ) EQ solution, I have to say I much prefer the PC based software. Yes, there is a little more complication in initially setting things up, but the results are worth it. Being able to see your room response and EQ results graphically is pretty sweet.


I would also think that the majority of the D2 owners either have the ability to do the EQ with the D2 software and a PC/laptop themselves, or have the money to have someone else do it for them. That said, we all might be jumping the gun here, as Levesque is saying that nothing is final yet. I'm just glad they are working on it, as I'm sure that if Anthem is doing it, it will be GOOD!


----------



## Milt99

Allow me to preface my post by saying I know very little about the internals of room eq.

But I am positive that to do it properly requires either a special purpose chipset in a standalone unit like DEQX or the raw processing power of an Intel cpu using a matlab type program.

While the Anthem solution will likely not be as flexible with the ability to change things on the fly it seems obvious that it will have to have the ability to do multi-channel in reasonable manner. This is not cheap.

Outside of getting 3\\4 DEQX units or going with something like a Phase Tech system this could really be nice.

Afterall, a movie without sound is just a nicklelodeon









Sorry for the OT posts. This really is a D2 video tweak thread.


----------



## DrJRapp

I've been using fw 1.10 successfully in my D2 without the slightest gltch till last night when the D2 has started to get hung up in Anthem Logic or 2 channel mode when playing HDDVDs with my XA1. Power cycling will fix the issue, but I don't believe that it's a power up sequencing issue since the D2 reverts back to 2 channel when I play the 2d of 2 DVDs in arow. Once again, another power cycle will alleviate the problem.


What I find disturbing is the fact that everything worked perfectly for more than a week, and this only started yesterday. Could I be experiencing some sort of melt down in the FW code?


I will be contacting Nick with this issue also.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry for the OT posts. This really is a D2 video tweak thread.


*Milt,* Don't sweat it, this is a "tweak EVERYTHING" on the D2/AVM50 thread. Audio, video, remotes, general operation, you name it. BTW, I agree with your post!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been using fw 1.10 successfully in my D2 without the slightest gltch till last night when the D2 has started to get hung up in Anthem Logic or 2 channel mode when playing HDDVDs with my XA1.


*DrJRapp*, version 1.11 is available for download, I wonder if that would fix your bug?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> While the Anthem solution will likely not be as flexible with the ability to change things on the fly it seems obvious that it will have to have the ability to do multi-channel in reasonable manner. *This is not cheap.*



But unlike all the others (Lexicon, Meridian...) Anthem software will be FREE. A simple download of both the software and the firmware upgrade to go along with it... for FREE.


----------



## obie_fl

FREE is meaningless if it isn't up to Meridan, Lexicon or better yet TACT standards. I'm willing to pay for a really good implementation. Having said that if the mic plugs directly into the D2 and the test tones are generated internally I have no problem using an external PC control program.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But I am positive that to do it properly requires either a special purpose chipset in a standalone unit like DEQX or the raw processing power of an Intel cpu using a matlab type program.



Curious about this statement are you saying the DEQX has a more powerful DSP then the two Motorola Freescales in the D2?


----------



## Nathan_R

Is anyone using an hdmi splitter to feed two displays from the Anthem? I tried a Y-adapter from Monoprice, thinking I'd be ok as long as one of the displays was powered off. I was wrong.


I'd prefer not to fork over $300 for the Gefen 2 port splitter, if anything functional and less expensive exists. Any thoughts?


----------



## lotia




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But unlike all the others (Lexicon, Meridian...) Anthem software will be FREE. A simple download of both the software and the firmware upgrade to go along with it... for FREE.



Is there any possibility that such control software would be written as a java app so us Windows challenged people would be able to use it? If I do go with a D2 which seems quite likely, I will either have to pay my dealer to come out and do field upgrades or will have to acquire a windows machine. My HTPC currently runs Linux since I use MythTV as my PVR and the thought of having to run a second machine for room correction duties is not a fun one. That said, I could simply do without this additional functionality and be satisfied with all the other fantastic features available on the D2. Its just that it ticks so many of the boxes already...


--

Ali


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FREE is meaningless if it isn't up to Meridan, Lexicon or better yet TACT standards.



And if Anthem's solution is better, what then?


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is anyone using an hdmi splitter to feed two displays from the Anthem? I tried a Y-adapter from Monoprice, thinking I'd be ok as long as one of the displays was powered off. I was wrong.
> 
> 
> I'd prefer not to fork over $300 for the Gefen 2 port splitter, if anything functional and less expensive exists. Any thoughts?



I had no luck either. Did not try with Anthem but with PS3. I used this 


It does not matter if one display is even unplugged from power source, the moment an HDMI cable is plugged in (or DVI), the target screen goes blank.


This was surprise as I thought it would work. So if you see this product don't buy it.


----------



## Milt99

obie,

I have no idea what the specifics of the DEQX dsp(s) are but I would have to believe that they are special purpose and will only work with their proprietary software. It also has active digital crossovers.

The 2-channel DEQX is $3k without the calibration kit plus $300 to $800 for the calibration kit. This is much more sophisticated then the what is possible in the D2.


The Anthem solution _sounds_ like the software uses a PC to do the calcs and then the results translated into DSP native code and are loaded into the Anthem DSPs and are as such static until reloaded.

I would think that somehow the kit will have to provide for frequency sweeps to be effective.

I'm not qualified to speculate on this stuff. I'm just happy I'm getting my D1 upgraded
























lotia,

you must have at least one friend with a Windows-based pc


----------



## obie_fl

Looks like the DEQX uses two 32 bit SHARC DSPs vs the D2s two Freescale 24 bit DSPs. Not sure what you mean by special purpose all these devices use off the shelf DSPs. All but the largest Japanese CE companies use off the shelf components. I would have to say the D2 is a much more sophisticated device from a hardware perspective, although the DSPs may be a bit less powerful. Now if you are talking software, yea the DEQX probably has the edge.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And if Anthem's solution is better, what then?



It makes me a very happy D2 owner unless I can't do it myself with my laptop.


----------



## abc999

Maybe I missed it, but will the EQ function be available with AVM50?


----------



## sfield




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markalston* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity, did you teach your detective from the d2 like I did? If so, does it report an apple display to your htpc?
> 
> 
> 
> Mind posting your modelines/powerstrip settings for fellow D2'ers who are still having problems?
> 
> 
> Mark A.



I did teach the DVI detection through the D2.

The monitor shows up as a SNY57F3 according to powerstrip. This is a sony pearl projector, not sure if those values are expected. If you have problems, just try taking the D2 out of the loop, and program the DVI detective directly hooked to your display device.


Here are the 1080p timing values I have used with the HTPC. I am using the 23.976 setting consistently, with the D2 set to FrameLock=Auto (so the D2 doesn't change the frequency).


******[email protected]*******

59.40Mhz pixel clock


27.000khz scan rate

1920 active

96 front porch

48 sync width

136 back porch

2200 total lines


24.000 refresh rate

1080 active

4 front porch

11 sync width

30 back porch

1125 total lines


******[email protected]*******

59.340Mhz pixel clock

23.976 refresh rate

all other values same as those for 24.000hz


(BTW, creating a custom D2 resolution matching this works the best so far for 1080i film content from the Toshiba HD-A1, but it still occasionally glitches, requiring a pause/resume cycle from the source component to "resync").



Also, I had to experiment with several video decoders and various settings in order to get smooth 24fps playback from the HTPC. I was not able to get the nVidia decoder to work properly at these 24fps settings. The decoder I settled on was the $14 Sonic video decoder pack. I had to turn off DXVA hardware acceleration and tweak some other esoteric settings in the registry. I can post details if you have problems.



******[email protected]*******

148.50Mhz pixel clock

67.50Khz scan rate

1920 active

96 front porch

40 sync width

144 back porch

2200 total


60.000hz refresh rate

1080 active

4 front porch

5 sync width

36 back porch

1125 lines


----------



## sfield




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is anyone using an hdmi splitter to feed two displays from the Anthem? I tried a Y-adapter from Monoprice, thinking I'd be ok as long as one of the displays was powered off. I was wrong.
> 
> 
> I'd prefer not to fork over $300 for the Gefen 2 port splitter, if anything functional and less expensive exists. Any thoughts?



I am using a DTrovision DD-D12P 1input 2output DVI device.

Output #1 goes to a Sony Pearl Projector

Output #2 goes to a Westinghouse LCD display


Both display devices support [email protected]

THe westinghouse doesn't support [email protected], so I don't use it for those usage cases. BTW, the de-interlacer builtin to the westinghouse is terrible. The D2 does wonders for that display.


The Dtrovision DVI splitter passes all manner of signals correctly. It also has some interesting properties related to HDCP if you happen to be driving non-HDCP compliant devices. (I originally purchased it to send video to a Sanyo PLV-70 projector, which doesn't support HDCP).


The Westinghouse has some EDID issues, so I had to put a DVI detective between the Anthem HDMI output and the Dtrovision input. (otherwise, there would be no video, depending on if the Westinghouse was the only output device turned on).


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is anyone using an hdmi splitter to feed two displays from the Anthem? I tried a Y-adapter from Monoprice, thinking I'd be ok as long as one of the displays was powered off. I was wrong.
> 
> 
> I'd prefer not to fork over $300 for the Gefen 2 port splitter, if anything functional and less expensive exists. Any thoughts?



Yes I tried the Monoprice splitter as well with no luck.

If it's any consolation you can pick up the Gefen splitter for $250 from Buy.com using the Goggle checkout method. And better yet,

it works










dc


----------



## tspotorno

My D2/P5 finally arrived from the dealer yesterday. BTW the D2 has 1.11 installed on it not 1.10.


However, I seem to be having an issue, no sound from the speakers...


Got it pretty much setup, hooked my oppo and samsung bdp1000 up and can watch video hear sound thru the tv. tv is mt 65831 hooked up via hdmi. both dvd players have hdmi cable to D2. Picture is great. Sound appears from tv. Nothing i seem to be configuring lets sound out of speakers hooked to P5...


All 5 blue lights on the P5 light up. all circuit breakers are in, the 5 xlr cables from D2/P5 are there.


Is there something I'm missing? Went thru sound check levels. Nothing. I'm hoping there is a setting somewhere that I missed...


Any help would be appreciated.


Tony


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe I missed it, but will the EQ function be available with AVM50?



Last I heard it was the D2 only. Apparently it needs the second Freescale DSP not present in the AVM-50.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tony,

Do you need to "enable" a 12 volt trigger to activate the power amp?


I haven't used the P5, but some power amps with XLR inputs have a manual switch that must be thrown to enable the XLR inputs instead of RCA inputs.


Also double check that you have connected the XLR cables to the XLR outputs of the D2 and not to it's multi-channel, analog XLR inputs.


If you have powered speakers for your computer -- or perhaps another amp and speaker combo that's easy to move -- hook it up temporarily to a pair of the RCA line level outputs of the D2 to see if audio is coming out of those. This will help isolate whether the setup problem is in the D2 or the P5.


On the D2, be sure you have selected the Main path (buttons at top of the remote) before you select the input source (buttons at bottom of the remote).


Press Select on the D2 remote repeatedly to see the input bit rate and number of speakers for the audio (as well as other status displays). This will confirm that you have configured the audio input items correctly in the D2's Setup menu.


Let's start with these and see what you get.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht

Bob is more logical in Q&A leading to solutions, but a couple quick one.


Assume Amp light is blue/lit, there is a specific mini din way to hook the anthem amp up to auto on with pre-amp zone 1, it works great.


Are you getting a tone for sound setup?


What is the input (analog, digital, device)/sound format if the test tone is working.


Not trying to be condascending, I always forget the easy things.


----------



## obie_fl

I've been bit by the lack of a trigger a few times it defaults to off I believe.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Also double check that you have connected the XLR cables to the XLR outputs of the D2 and not to it's multi-channel, analog XLR inputs.



The D2 doesn't have multi-channel analog XLR inputs, only outputs.


On the P5 you have 2 switches to check, the trigger,auto on and manual on switch and the selector for each channel that switches from RCA to XLR and if XLR the amount of gain you want.


I'm assuming you plugged in both cords right?


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Last I heard it was the D2 only. Apparently it needs the second Freescale DSP not present in the AVM-50.



You are correct obie. I talked to Nick's co-worker the other day and confirmed, as well as learned there is no way to upgrade an AVM50 to a D2, only to a D1. I didn't ask why, but needless to say, if I thought of getting the best Anthem offered in the future, I'm out of luck. Unless of course, I bought a new D2.


However, I must say that I'm more than thrilled today with the AVM50.


On another note, I may (hope) get the new Slim Devices Transporter or the Lavry DA10 for Christmas. The Dac's in these two units are raved to be fantastic for two channel listening. I'll give some feedback if Santa comes through.


Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 doesn't have multi-channel analog XLR inputs, only outputs.



Oh yeah. Ooops.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DrJRapp,

Any update on your multi-channel input problem from the Toshiba X1 HD-DVD player?


As I recall we had one earlier poster here who was having problems with his Anthem properly handling multi-channel with the Toshiba and the result was that Anthem had to swap out his unit. However he was having a whole series of related audio strangeness.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DrJRapp,
> 
> Any update on your multi-channel input problem from the Toshiba X1 HD-DVD player?
> 
> 
> As I recall we had one earlier poster here who was having problems with his Anthem properly handling multi-channel with the Toshiba and the result was that Anthem had to swap out his unit. However he was having a whole series of related audio strangeness.
> 
> --Bob



I don't remember Dr Rapp's Problem with the HD-A1 and True-HD over PCM with

the D2 - but that is WHY I called Nick on Friday - with my Brand NEW D2 that I

just installed.


Nick made me believe it was because I was still running 1.06 and it would go away

after an update.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been using fw 1.10 successfully in my D2 without the slightest gltch till last night when the D2 has started to get hung up in Anthem Logic or 2 channel mode when playing HDDVDs with my XA1. Power cycling will fix the issue, but I don't believe that it's a power up sequencing issue since the D2 reverts back to 2 channel when I play the 2d of 2 DVDs in arow. Once again, another power cycle will alleviate the problem.
> 
> 
> What I find disturbing is the fact that everything worked perfectly for more than a week, and this only started yesterday. Could I be experiencing some sort of melt down in the FW code?
> 
> 
> I will be contacting Nick with this issue also.



YOU NAILED IT - That is my problem also - see my PREVIOUS Post.


Same problem with 1.06 FW.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

V1.11 startup problems with HDMI video output.


I previously reported that my Fujitsu plasma was having problems recognizing the Anthem as a previously used video source -- so as to automatically load the last set of saved Fujitsu settings appropriate for that source. This is a problem with V1.11 that I never had with V1.06.


I've now decided the problem is a little more severe. Periodically when I power on the Fujitsu and D2 there will be no video at all! The Fujitsu shows a black screen as if it has no input. Meanwhile the D2 ALSO says it has no video *INPUT* -- however it is not sending out its default blue screen as it would normally do if there were really no input. My power on sources send optical audio to the D2 and the audio always works fine in these cases.


There are no error messages displayed by any device when this happens.


The workaround when this happens is to power off the D2 and immediatley power it back on. One power off/on like this is always enough. I've never had it fail again when doing this, nor has it ever failed during normal viewing. It only seems to have this problem when both units have been powered off for quite a while.


I've tried turning on the D2 and letting things sit a good while before turning on the Fujitsu, as well as trying it the other way around. Neither of these seems to have any affect on how frequently this failure will occur when the second device is finally powered up. The failure seems to happen about 50% of the time when powering up after both devices have been off for several hours.


My Fujitsu is connected to the D2 by HDMI to DVI cable. I suspect that in the process of improving HDMI input the V1.11 software may have degraded HDMI output handshake. I presume the reason the D2 is saying it has no input is that it knows there is a TV on the HDMI line but it has not made a good handshake to it, so it is saying HDCP is bad to the HDMI input devices.


However I have also had this failure occur when the source device at power up is an S-VIDEO device, and once again the D2 front panel display says it has no video input (via presses of Select button).


----------------------------------------------------------------------------


My theory is that the unexpected alteration of Scale Output mode on power up for the input selected on power up (previously reported, and confirmed by Anthem) is perhaps just the most visible sign of the D2 improperly initializing itself at power up, and that this HDMI output handshake problem I'm having may be a more subtle result of the same problem.

--Bob


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> V1.11 startup problems with HDMI video output.
> 
> 
> I previously reported that my Fujitsu plasma was having problems recognizing the Anthem as a previously used video source -- so as to automatically load the last set of saved Fujitsu settings appropriate for that source. This is a problem with V1.11 that I never had with V1.06.
> 
> 
> I've now decided the problem is a little more severe. Periodically when I power on the Fujitsu and D2 there will be no video at all! The Fujitsu shows a black screen as if it has no input. Meanwhile the D2 ALSO says it has no video *INPUT* -- however it is not sending out its default blue screen as it would normally do if there were really no input. My power on sources send optical audio to the D2 and the audio always works fine in these cases.
> 
> 
> There are no error messages displayed by any device when this happens.
> 
> 
> The workaround when this happens is to power off the D2 and immediatley power it back on. One power off/on like this is always enough. I've never had it fail again when doing this, nor has it ever failed during normal viewing. It only seems to have this problem when both units have been powered off for quite a while.
> 
> 
> I've tried turning on the D2 and letting things sit a good while before turning on the Fujitsu, as well as trying it the other way around. Neither of these seems to have any affect on how frequently this failure will occur when the second device is finally powered up. The failure seems to happen about 50% of the time when powering up after both devices have been off for several hours.
> 
> 
> My Fujitsu is connected to the D2 by HDMI to DVI cable. I suspect that in the process of improving HDMI input the V1.11 software may have degraded HDMI output handshake. I presume the reason the D2 is saying it has no input is that it knows there is a TV on the HDMI line but it has not made a good handshake to it, so it is saying HDCP is bad to the HDMI input devices.
> 
> 
> However I have also had this failure occur when the source device at power up is an S-VIDEO device, and once again the D2 front panel display says it has no video input (via presses of Select button).
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> My theory is that the unexpected alteration of Scale Output mode on power up for the input selected on power up (previously reported, and confirmed by Anthem) is perhaps just the most visible sign of the D2 improperly initializing itself at power up, and that this HDMI output handshake problem I'm having may be a more subtle result of the same problem.
> 
> --Bob



Same problem here (fw v1.10), same solution, powering the D2 off/on









Hopefully Anthem will get a grip on this before long.


dc


----------



## budeone

Has anybody hooked the AVM-50 to a Blu-Ray player yet?


If so, was there a big difference between SD going through the Anthem and the BP going through.


What settings did you use to get the best pic?



Thanks


----------



## tspotorno

Thanks for the replies, after all the heavy lifting to get that amp in place, I failed to notice the input selector switch is 3way on the amp, coax, 0db, -6db. I had them all at coax setting, instead of the middle setting...


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Indeed. His response is wrong. The Anthem D2 and AVM-50 are HDMI V1.1 devices and they accept 1080p over HDMI today.
> 
> 
> There certainly are HDMI V1.1 devices out there which top out at 1080i, but that's not an HDMI V1.1 limitation, but rather a marketing decision to not add the cost of processing the higher bandwidth 1080p signal inside the device. If you try to send 1080p to such a device the connection won't work. HDMI includes a protocol for exchanging allowed resolutions between devices so the device at the other end of the cable will know that the other device isn't fast enough to handle 1080p.
> 
> 
> You should also know that there are a significant number of HDMI cables out there which work fine at 1080i but are not quite up to handling 1080p. This is probably equal parts of a design decision (keep the cost down) and a manufacturing quality control issue (also keep the cost down). This problem will likely carry over to the HDMI V1.3 world as well. There is no good way to be sure you are paying as much as you need to get a 1080p capable cable, but not paying too much for an "exotic" cable that offers no real advantage. Clever of them, eh?
> 
> 
> Even with HDMI V1.3, you will need to check to be sure you aren't buying a "cut rate" device which only goes up to 1080i.
> 
> 
> And it is even more confusing than that! That's because there are different "frame rates" of 1080p. 1080p/24Hz is a lower bandwidth signal than 1080p/60Hz. The Anthem D2 and AVM-50 go up to /60Hz on their HDMI V1.1 connections for both input and output. On the other hand, the current crop of Pioneer Elite 768p (native resolution) plasmas can accept a 1080p/24Hz signal (good for watching movies -- down scaled by the plasma to 768p/78Hz) but do NOT accept a 1080p/60Hz signal (good for watching TV).
> 
> 
> Having fun yet?
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob: Thanks. Like you, I currently own a Fujitsu plasma. It's the P50XHA10US. I don't know what model you own. I love the AVM scaler and have been concerned about increasing screen size and giving up the AVM.


However, I want a larger screen so I'm thinking about purchasing the 65" 1080P Panasonic TH-65PX600U . One of the reasons I want the D2 is help clean-up the SD and HD PQ. Obviously, flaws are much more noticeable on larger screens.


However, I also want to make sure I buy a display that can handle the D2's video output of 1080P/24Hz through 1080P/60Hz. If the Panasonic has an HDMI 1.1 input, will it accept the D2's 1080P/60Hz output ... without defaulting to a lower resolution? Thanks.


----------



## Unclejeff

Yatcheks; I went to Slim Devices' open house yesterday and I saw the Transporter in action. I put in an order for one . Oh, heads up: because the Transporter is on back-order they are throwing in a Squeezebox for free when you order the Transporter. The squeezebox is a massive improvement over my Apple G5 internet feed and now I need to reburn my CDs in Apple Lossless as now I have something that can use the better format.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yatcheks; I went to Slim Devices' open house yesterday and I saw the Transporter in action. I put in an order for one . Oh, heads up: because the Transporter is on back-order they are throwing in a Squeezebox for free when you order the Transporter. The squeezebox is a massive improvement over my Apple G5 internet feed and now I need to reburn my CDs in Apple Lossless as now I have something that can use the better format.



The squeezbox tossed is a bonus indeed.


The transporter has balanced out which I'm looking forward to using with the AVM50.

It is expensive at $1999.00, but I'm thinking this will be a nice addition. Early comments from users claim there high end cd transports are up for sale.


I have not used balanced inputs before, I assume when the Anthem is in bypass mode, my dedicated subwoofer will not output, but bass willl redirect to the towers?


If this is correct, this is where Anthems "music" speaker settings come in to play?


----------



## MStanic

I haven't had any time to play with my setup at all lately but I'd like to get back at it during the Holidays.


Bob, you've been really helpful in your replies....thanks.


For instance, how do I know that the 480i feed, from the Oppo, to the D2 and then back to my TV is being cleaned up by the scaler. Stupid question since my eyes should be able to tell me but it doesn 't look that great to me on most DVD's. I must be doing something wrong. Again, I can't set the D2 to my TV's native display but Anthem indicated I should use Live Video Settings for that. At this rate, I'm not seeing any advantage to my D2 over my previous D1.


Now that I have some time, I'm going to read the manual which is where I should start I suppose.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anybody hooked the AVM-50 to a Blu-Ray player yet?
> 
> 
> If so, was there a big difference between SD going through the Anthem and the BP going through.
> 
> 
> What settings did you use to get the best pic?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



It of course all depends on the player and how well calibrated the system is (I try to keep the projector professionally calibrated constant), basic tweaks/known areas on player, then calibrate the Anthem Input settings). With the new 50GB discs, the Samsung upgrade, and better CODEC use, it is a significant difference over well scaled & deinterlaced SD. The sound is noticeably richer. I usde the Anthem to deinterlace from 1080i because the 1080p output is kind of a hack. Interested in the new Pio or even a PS3 (but not at a wacky premium). Sound is PCM to let player decode. I have hundreds of D-VHS tapes, but I'm still impressed with Blu-ray. Ergonomically it is much better than the Tosh HD-DVD player, and doesn't take as long to get playing a feature.


Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dobe,

I own a 30 series 50" Fujitsu. I like it's scaler a lot. However sending 1360x768p to it from the D2 is better still. I can see that subjectively, and also objectively with things like the HQV de-interlacing test disc.


----------------------------------------------------------


I haven't been following the current Panasonics that closely, but it ought to be easy to determine from spec sheets and the owner's manual (usually downloadable) whether it accepts 1080p/24Hz and also /60Hz.


For /24Hz input, you *ALSO* want to find out whether the display shifts its own internal scan rate to some multiple of "24", since otherwise you will get no benefit -- i.e., the 24Hz will just be converted to 60Hz inside the plasma. Typically 24Hz is considered not so good (screen flicker), 48Hz is considered probably OK, and 72Hz or a higher multiple is best. The Pioneer Elite plasmas have done the 72Hz thing for a while. You might want to look at the Pioneer Elite FHD-1 (only a 50") as comparison to see if you can see problems in the larger Panny.


There are plenty of experts in the flat panel display forum here who would know for sure what that Panny can do.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mstanic,

It's tough to help without being there to see what you are seing.


I know that the Oppo 970, with the latest firmware, is able to put out pristine 480i over HDMI. I know that the D2 is capable of doing a first class job of de-interlacing and scaling that signal for HDMI output. What I don't know is how good a job your TV can do of de-interlacing and scaling on its own, or what it does to the signal you feed it from the D2 since you can't feed it its native resolution, or whether you've got the basic blacks/whites/colors/sharpness levels set correctly when hooked up both ways.


De-interlacing defects are easy to see once you have a clue what to look for. Scaling defects are harder to see. The "Secrets of Home Theater" web site (do a Google search) has some very detailed info on what goes wrong during de-interlacing. I don't have an equally good reference for you on scaling problems.


It is rather common that people who are used to typical, poorer quality video, don't "see" such defects until they are first pointed out. The brain does a good job of pretending such problems don't exist. However once you see them first they become obvious thereafter.


-----------------------------------------------------


Now be aware that there are lots of crappy DVDs out there, and no combination of devices is going to make any of them look very good. In fact a better setup can make the problems of a bad DVD even more annoying.


But if you are viewing a good quality DVD -- "The Incredibles" for example -- and you still think the solution through the D2 looks worse, then there is most likely something wrong in your setup. There's a standard DVD disc forum here where people debate the quality of DVDs and even have a list of "reference quality" DVDs.


You may also want to look at the diisplay calibration forum here for ideas on how to better set up your system, or you may want to pay a professional to come in and do an "ISF" calibration on your stuff.


-----------------------------------------------------


Here are some basic questions:


1) What's your display (I haven't looked back in the thread)?


2) What calibration DVD disc(s) are you using?


3) What "picture mode" are you using in the display?


4) Have you turned off other video "enhancement" features in the display such as flesh tone correction, velocity modulation, noise reduction, and such?


5) What's the range of settings in your display for Brightness, Contrast, Color, Tint, and Sharpness from low to high, and what settings are you currently using?


6) Have you viewed the SMPTE test chart generated by the Anthem to confirm your display's Brightness, Color, and Tint settings are correct independent of any source video coming in to the Anthem?


7) What input settings are you using in the Anthem for Brightness, Contrast, Color and Tint when viewing the Oppo?


8) Have you verified that the Anthem is actually receiving a 480i signal from the Oppo by pressing the Anthem Select key on the remote twice to see the incoming resolution?


9) What video output settings (other than resolution) are you using in the Oppo? HDMI output should be in the YCbCr format for example.


10) What video resolution and color format are you sending from the Anthem to your display?


11) Have you verified that the Anthem is actually sending that resolution and format to your display by looking at any status info in the display itself and by looking at the Info panel in the Anthem's Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key)?


12) Just to confirm the obvious, you are using HDMI from the Oppo to the Anthem right? The Oppo does *NOT* produce a good Component video signal.


Based on what you can tell us, we may have other questions. But there is absolutely no way that the de-interlacing and scaler in the 0ppo 970 can match what's in the Anthem. So if you are saying that a video scaled up by the Oppo looks better than a video scaled up by the Anthem, there is definitely something wrong in your Anthem related setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tony,

I'm glad the solution to your silent speakers problem turned out to be so simple!


Things should be sounding pretty durned good right about now. Enjoy!

--Bob


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yatcheks; I went to Slim Devices' open house yesterday and I saw the Transporter in action. I put in an order for one . Oh, heads up: because the Transporter is on back-order they are throwing in a Squeezebox for free when you order the Transporter. The squeezebox is a massive improvement over my Apple G5 internet feed and now I need to reburn my CDs in Apple Lossless as now I have something that can use the better format.



Yes the Transporter is my new favorite toy, well besides the D2 of course.

You are going to love it!


dc


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It off course all depends on the player and how well calibrated the system is. With the new 50GB discs, the Samsung upgrade, and better CODEC use, it is a significant difference over well scaled & deinterlaced SD. The sound is noticeably richer. I usde the Anthem to deinterlace from 1080i because the 1080p output is kind of a hack. Interested in the new Pio or even a PS3 (but not at a wacky premium). Sound is PCM to let player decode. I have hundreds of D-VHS tapes, but I'm still impressed with Blu-ray. Ergonomically it is much better than the Tosh HD-DVD player, and doesn't take as long to get playing a feature.
> 
> 
> Tim



I couldn't find a standalone Blu-Ray player that had all the features I wanted (1080p/24, support for decoding advanced codecs, future blu-ray live support, Ethernet jack built-in, etc.). After doing a bit of research on what Blu-Ray player to get, I decided to get a PS3 for now (only had to pay a small premium for it). It's arriving on Tuesday.


I don't know about the PS3, but I read that another player does some strange shenanigans when converting from 1080p/24 to 1080p/60. My display is a Marantz VP-12S3, which is a 720 DLP front projector (waiting for an ideal1080p projector). Am I better off letting the PS3 output 1080i for movies and have the Anthem D2 convert it to 720p? Some games are 720p, so I guess I would use 720p for the games (though truthfully, I got the PS3 for movies).


----------



## BillW

Now that I have some time, I'm going to read the manual which is where I should start I suppose.[/quote]


I couldn't figure out why my Roku wouldn't play in the second zone. I checked the wiring the amp etc. Finally whenall else failed I broused the OM and sure enough it states that optical inputs cannot be assigned to zone 2 or 3. They must be copied from zone 1 which is done by simultaneously pressing down zone 1 and 2 buttons. Presto proplem resolved!


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now that I have some time, I'm going to read the manual which is where I should start I suppose.



I couldn't figure out why my Roku wouldn't play in the second zone. I checked the wiring the amp etc. Finally whenall else failed I broused the OM and sure enough it states that optical inputs cannot be assigned to zone 2 or 3. They must be copied from zone 1 which is done by simultaneously pressing down zone 1 and 2 buttons. Presto proplem resolved![/quote]


Bill,


...or, if you don't want to have to Copy Zone 1 all the time, connect both analog R+L RCA inputs as well as optical from the Roku to the D2, and then you WILL be able to independently switch that source in Zone 2. Likewise, you can do this with any/all other sources.


-Brian


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markalston* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Just got my panny 50" 9uk hung on the wall and really want to get NR working on this panel. Not to rehash old nastiness but the one guy I know of who was trying to get this to work gave up and returned his D2.
> 
> 
> [edit]
> 
> 
> Just got it working. Found a helpful post in another scallers thread. So far it has been stable for 45 seconds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll followup on the stability later.
> 
> 
> Since 1366x768 pannys are one of the most popular plasmas around I thought I'd post my settings:
> 
> 
> Horizontal Size Total: 1794
> 
> Horizontal Size Active: 1366
> 
> Horzontal Sync Start: 24
> 
> Horizontal Sync End: 272
> 
> Vertical Size Total: 806
> 
> Vertical Size Active: 768
> 
> Vertical Sync Start: 3
> 
> Vertical Sync End: 4
> 
> Field Active Size: 768
> 
> Field Black Size 37
> 
> Offset: 0
> 
> Pixel Clock Rate: 86750000
> 
> 
> However, these settings have only been tested for 2-3 minutes so far so I take no responsibility for you frying your plasma, losing your wife/husband and kids, or any other misbehavior.
> 
> 
> Mark Alston



Mark, now that you've had this running for a while - has it been stable? And were you able to feed this resolution to the panasonic via HDMI or did you have to use a DVI board? (I believe the industrial panasonics can only take 720p via HDMI but can take 768 via DVI - but don't quote me on that, I'm not 100% certain).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

randman,

You should check the Blue Ray Players forum here for updated info on the PS3, but as I recall, it was discovered that the PS3 screws up 720p output big time by first downscaling to 480p and then upscaling again to 720p. If that's still the case, then you definitely want to have the PS3 output 1080i or 1080p (even from 720p games) and let the Anthem take it from there.


I can't recall whether the PS3 is also supposed to have problems putting out 1080p instead of 1080i.

--Bob


----------



## gostan

I have a Sennheiser HD650 headphones and a Stephen Audio Arts cable coming soon for some late evening quiet music and TV listening. Has anybody tried out the internal D2 headamp to be able to give some guidance on its' abilities? Generally, the internal headamps do not compare to external stand alone headamps.


Most headphone afficienados seem to use their headphone amps in a stand alone configuration with a cdp connected directly into it. Since I would want the ability to use the headphones with my cdp, TT and cable through my D2, would the best mode of connection of a separate headamp (if I decide I need one) to the D2 be an in and out connection using the tape loop?


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If that's still the case, then you definitely want to have the PS3 output 1080i or 1080p (even from 720p games) and let the Anthem take it from there.
> 
> --Bob



Even from 720p games? Interesting. I'll have to checkout the PS3 forums.


Thanks.


----------



## Ed Weinman

Sorry for the redundancy...do we sill not have an official announcement from Anthem re: the D1-to-D2 upgrade (including costs)? Their web site does not

reflect any information that I can find.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ed,

There are reports in another thread that Anthem is issuing RMA #s now to return a D1 and purchase an upgrade to a D1-HD (the D2 equivalent). I believe there is still some confusion about the cost, but $2k has been bandied about.

--Bob


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

Sorry to jump in. I am not as well versed as you folks but I am considering purchasing a D2 and the P5. What is the mark-up on these devices; I was quoted $13k for both (incl. tax). What is the best price I can expect to pay?


----------



## Ed Weinman

Bob,


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drlopezmdfacc,

I don't know about the P5 amp, but right now the D2 is a hot item with significant lead times. I wouldn't expect much discount unless your dealer has other reasons to want to curry favor with you.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

RE: HD DVD input to D2.

Don't know bout Blu-ray, I don't swing that way









but for the Tosh HD DVD you want to output 1080i to the D2 and then use the D2 to scale to the native res of the display device.

I had a Tosh and a D2 for awhile and it was soooooo nice.

FWIW, The new gen Toshiba HD DVD player is availble for approx. $500 from a forum sponsor, Value Electronics, plus some very nice extras. Way cheaper than any Blu player with the exception of the PS3 and the Samsung(don't go there).

The slow start issues with the first gen players is gone.


As far as the D1 to D1-HD upgrade. $2k is the price quoted directly to me by Frank at Anthem. Visa\\Mastercard only.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> I wouldn't expect much discount unless your dealer has other reasons to want to curry favor with you.



If forking over $13k doesn't curry some favor I don't know what would.









Drlopez, what kind of speakers are you driving in how big a room?

The P5 is an awesome amp to be sure but the A5 is pretty sweet too, I have one and it's a LOT cheaper than the P5.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> RE: HD DVD input to D2.
> 
> Don't know bout Blu-ray, I don't swing that way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but for the Tosh HD DVD you want to output 1080i to the D2 and then use the D2 to scale to the native res of the display device.
> 
> I had a Tosh and a D2 for awhile and it was soooooo nice.
> 
> FWIW, The new gen Toshiba HD DVD player is availble for approx. $500 from a forum sponsor, Value Electronics, plus some very nice extras. Way cheaper than any Blu player with the exception of the PS3 and the Samsung(don't go there).
> 
> The slow start issues with the first gen players is gone.
> 
> 
> As far as the D1 to D1-HD upgrade. $2k is the price quoted directly to me by Frank at Anthem. Visa\\Mastercard only.




I have the xbox HD-DVD hooked up to the D2 via component. I have the option of 1080i or 720P as an output. My infocus 5207's native is 720P. Should I also set the xbox to output 1080i as you have the tosh set?


Thanks


----------



## budeone

Anybody hook up a Sony BP player to the Anthem AVM-50 yet? I just did mine today.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anybody hook up a Sony BP player to the Anthem AVM-50 yet? I just did mine today.




AND -? -? -?


----------



## budeone

Still working on the settings. I am looking for posts that my get the most out of it.


The Blu disks just great.. The regular dvd I don't see any difference that my Sony 999es player.


I cant get the menu on the Tv yet. If i change the settings on the TV the left is always cut off. If its in 4:3 its still cut off, just in the middle of the screen.


So, I am still working on it.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Still working on the settings. I am looking for posts that my get the most out of it.
> 
> 
> The Blu disks just great.. The regular dvd I don't see any difference that my Sony 999es player.
> 
> 
> I cant get the menu on the Tv yet. If i change the settings on the TV the left is always cut off. If its in 4:3 its still cut off, just in the middle of the screen.
> 
> 
> So, I am still working on it.



Enjoy the tweaking [GRIN]!


----------



## drhankz

Hi D2 Tweakers!


I just installed and turned on my D2 for the first time last Friday.


Even though it is new - it came with FW 1.06.


When I talked with Nick on Friday - he suggested waiting to upgrade until

1.12 is released.


Nick is out for the next two weeks - so I will try to find my answer here.


The VIDEO feature I CAN NOT FIND is Vertical or Horizontal Blanking Adjustment.


Every scaler I have ever owned usually has this feature. My DVDO VP50 which

the D2 replaces has it. My Faroudja had it 10 years ago.


All CRT projectors need it.


SO WHERE IS IT IN THE D2 [GRIN]?


----------



## LEVESQUE

drhankz


Live Video Settings Editor. It's a software utility coming with the firmware upgrade package. Just download the latest firmware on Anthem's site, unzip it on a computer, and you will see the software with the firmware.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz
> 
> 
> Live Video Settings Editor. It's a software utility coming with the firmware upgrade package. Just download the latest firmware on Anthem's site, unzip it on a computer, and you will see the software with the firmware.



Hi Levesque:


I DID that - but It was not Obvious after looking at all the parameters

there - EITHER.


What does Anthem CALL IT?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz
> 
> 
> Live Video Settings Editor. It's a software utility coming with the firmware upgrade package. Just download the latest firmware on Anthem's site, unzip it on a computer, and you will see the software with the firmware.



Hi Levesque:


Is it vertical size versus active size in the CUSTOM OUTPUT section

of Live Edit.


I don't want to change the 1:1 pixel mapping SO ACTIVE size needs

to stay at 1080.


If I reduce Vertical size to LESS than 1080 - I hope that would blank

the top and bottom of the display Frame?


Am I on the right track?


----------



## obie_fl

I've always done the blanking on mine with my CRT controls. I haven't tried to do it with the scaler controls. What projector do you have?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've always done the blanking on mine with my CRT controls. I haven't tried to do it with the scaler controls. What projector do you have?



I have two Runco's - BUT they are obsolete and sitting on the floor.


I have a SONY RUBY - now.


No Blanking adjustment there.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drhankz,

Actually what I think you want is vertical size bigger than active vertical size. The difference is the vertical blanking interval. If vertical size and active vertical size were the same there would be no blanking interval. Vertical size less than active vertical size would make no sense.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Ah thought you were still using the CRTs...went to the dark side heh?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz,
> 
> Actually what I think you want is vertical size bigger than active vertical size. The difference is the vertical blanking interval. If vertical size and active vertical size were the same there would be no blanking interval. Vertical size less than active vertical size would make no sense.
> 
> --Bob



That Changes resolution and 1:1 pixel mapping. That is what I do not

want to touch. At least that is my belief. All Anthem had to do was name

the slider VERTICAL blanking [GRIN]! I guess that would have been too

easy.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ah thought you were still using the CRTs...went to the dark side heh?



I had to go to the DARK side after 10 years of CRT PJs.


Both PJs have new tubes [GRIN] [GRIN] [GRIN]!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drhankz,

I haven't actually played with this new stuff yet myself, but the change I suggested should result in no change in resolution. The Active vertical region remains at 1080 lines. All you are doing is setting how many line time periods elapse between the last line of one frame and the first line of the next frame. E.g vertical size of 150 and active vertical size of 100 would give you 100 hundred image lines and then a blanked time gap equal to 50 more lines before the first image line of the next frame. You also need to set an offset in that so that the first active line actually happens where you want at the top of the image.


Resolution is then just the active horizontal setting X the active vertical setting.

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks

Live Video Settings editor...I have not so much as opened this file, and know nothing about it. Is this something I should spend some time/research with? I haven't seen much talk here about this feature or the importance of using it.


Am I missing something of importance here?


Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mark,

The primary use for Live Video Settings editor is to get to some of the more complex video setup stuff the Anthems can do. Custom video output resolutions and timings and custom Gamma correction curves are the two biggies here.

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 
> The primary use for Live Video Settings editor is to get to some of the more complex video setup stuff the Anthems can do. Custom video output resolutions and timings and custom Gamma correction curves are the two biggies here.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob,


I'll experiment with this. I'm sure I'll be back with a couple questions. Actually, one off the top of my head, my SXRD's native output is 1080p but the tv only accepts a 1080i input. I assume 1:1 pixel mapping is not possible?


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

Thanks. I have a 5.2 set-up with M&K speakers--3 S-150 THX speakers in front, 2 ss-150 in back and 2 MX-150 subs in a large room 20 x 25? room. Do I really need this?


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> I'll experiment with this. I'm sure I'll be back with a couple questions. Actually, one off the top of my head, my SXRD's native output is 1080p but the tv only accepts a 1080i input. I assume 1:1 pixel mapping is not possible?




This is my 1rst post here so please be gentle.

I have many questions but to make this easy, I'll explain my rig and maybe someone can offer some advice.


Display "SONY KDS-R60 XBR-1" 1920x1080/1080i native res. x HDMI in.


Controller "ANTHEM AVM-50 PrePro" "Video output"= Preferred/HDMI,

Resolution/auto, Color Space/HDTV

VXP Gennum set to "Crop"= HDMI Auto Detect,

"Scale out"= Letter/Pillar Box, "Output"= Gamma corr/off,

Frame lock/Auto


DVD "OPPO DV-970HD DVD Player" Man. set to 480i raw


SAT "DIRECTV H-20 set to roaming native 480i/480p/720p/1080i


PC " MSI K8N NEO 4 SLI/AMD FX55 W/2 BFG 7800 GTX HD/DVI CARDS

DVI to HDMI interface to AVM-50 AUX. input & serial to serial

interface for AVM data update.


POWER 4)"ROTEL RB-1080/2 channel amps


CENTER PARADIGM CC-690/Bi amped


MAIN L/R PARADIGM MONITOR 90 P's/Bi wired, Sub amp set to max. all.


SURR L/R PARADIGM SA-35 IN WALLS


REAR L/R PARADIGM SA-35 IN WALLS


I don't really notice a lot of difference viewing hd channels via Directv "direct to display" in comparison to viewing through the AVM-50, What am I missing here, is it that my display is not 1080P? I must be doing something really really wrong here, any help will be much appreciated.

Please, don't hesitate to critisize, if you see something here that should change, it can only help me to get this rig where it needs to be.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz,
> 
> I haven't actually played with this new stuff yet myself, but the change I suggested should result in no change in resolution. The Active vertical region remains at 1080 lines. All you are doing is setting how many line time periods elapse between the last line of one frame and the first line of the next frame. E.g vertical size of 150 and active vertical size of 100 would give you 100 hundred image lines and then a blanked time gap equal to 50 more lines before the first image line of the next frame. You also need to set an offset in that so that the first active line actually happens where you want at the top of the image.
> 
> 
> Resolution is then just the active horizontal setting X the active vertical setting.
> 
> --Bob



I guess it is academic at this point.


I just tried to change the settings - nothing seemed to change

on the screen.


----------



## obie_fl

Roomraider I'll ask the obvious do you have the Anthem set to output 1080i? You may not see a huge difference in the 720P and 1080i sources but the 480 sources should have a pretty obvious improvement.


----------



## Roomraider

I have the Anthem set to auto, I checked the output menu and it states 1920x1080 output.

In order to experience the most from the AVM-50, do I need to get a 1080p display????


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the Anthem set to auto, I checked the output menu and it states 1920x1080 output.
> 
> In order to experience the most from the AVM-50, do I need to get a 1080p display????



That'll work









You're looking for a better picture from HD programing, right?

I'm not sure but I think you're going to see the biggest improvement in PQ with SD material such as DVDs, etc...

HD is already pretty darn good










dc


----------



## Milt99

RoomRaider,

Looks like you have a nice system.

What about setting the Colorspace to YCbCr?

I don't know the specifics of your display but I have a Benq DLP

and it likes YCbCr 4:4:4 so your set may like a specific feed.

Check the forums specific to your Sony, maybe someone there has that info.

Have you had your set calibrated by a professional?

Just a thought.


----------



## Roomraider

Thanks Milt99,

I'll give that a try, & no I haven't had the display calibrated, I'll call today for an appointment.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I just wanted to let my fellow Anthem owners know that I ordered the Sony Pearl 1080p front projector. I am currently using the Sony VPL-HS51a 720p projector which I have been very happy with.


Any of you guys own the Pearl? I know that there are a few who own the Ruby. I assume that setting the Anthem to output 1920x1080p/60 would provide 1:1 pixel mapping. The Pearl is capable of accepting a 1080p/24 signal also. I don't have any sources that can output 1080p/24.


I have the following:


Panasonic DMP-BD10 Blu-ray player - 1080p/60 output (1080p/24 conversion occuring within the player) - HDMI


Toshiba HD-A1 HD DVD player - 1080i/60 output - HDMI


Oppo 970HD - 480i - HDMI


Scientific Atlanta 8300HD high def DVR/STB - Set to output native rez. - HDMI


Sony DVP-CX995V - 400 Disc SACD/DVD player - 480i - Component



My plan is to set the Anthem to output 1920x1080p/60. Anyone who owns either the Ruby or Pearl care to comment??


Regards,


----------



## obie_fl

Ralph - Actually you do have a 1080p/24 source the Anthem.







You could try outputting 1080i out of the Pany Blu-ray and let the Gennum do the heavy lifting, you shouldn't lose any resolution that way since all the frames off the disc should still be output at 1080i.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ralph - Actually you do have a 1080p/24 source the Anthem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could try outputting 1080i out of the Pany Blu-ray and let the Gennum do the heavy lifting, you shouldn't lose any resolution that way since all the frames off the disc should still be output at 1080i.



Greetings,


Hi Tom, the Blu-ray discs are mastered at 1080p/24. If I set the Panny to 1080i output then the player will interlace the signal. The player is already converting the signal from 1080p/24 to 1080p/60. This is done because most displays are not capable of accepting a 1080p/24 signal.


Thoughts?


Regards,


Ralph


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I just wanted to let my fellow Anthem owners know that I ordered the Sony Pearl 1080p front projector. I am currently using the Sony VPL-HS51a 720p projector which I have been very happy with.
> 
> 
> Any of you guys own the Pearl? I know that there are a few who own the Ruby. I assume that setting the Anthem to output 1920x1080p/60 would provide 1:1 pixel mapping. The Pearl is capable of accepting a 1080p/24 signal also. I don't have any sources that can output 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> I have the following:
> 
> 
> Panasonic DMP-BD10 Blu-ray player - 1080p/60 output (1080p/24 conversion occuring within the player) - HDMI
> 
> 
> Toshiba HD-A1 HD DVD player - 1080i/60 output - HDMI
> 
> 
> Oppo 970HD - 480i - HDMI
> 
> 
> Scientific Atlanta 8300HD high def DVR/STB - Set to output native rez. - HDMI
> 
> 
> Sony DVP-CX995V - 400 Disc SACD/DVD player - 480i - Component
> 
> 
> 
> My plan is to set the Anthem to output 1920x1080p/60. Anyone who owns either the Ruby or Pearl care to comment??
> 
> 
> Regards,



You are going to love the D2/Pearl combo, I know I do.

What screen do you plan on using with the Pearl?

I'm using the Da-Lite Hi-Power, highly recommended combo.

Let us know how it goes.


dc


----------



## gdc

Ralph:


I have a Ruby instead of the Pearl, but fundamentally I consider them to be the same.


I output 1080p/60 from the Anthem D2 via HDMI. When I tried 1080i either via HDMI or component, the PQ was not as good. I have not tried the DVI, but I read some comments in the Ruby master thread that HDMI gave better quality than DVI.


I also have the Oppo 970 connected in the same way as you (480i via HDMI).


The Ruby is not able to accept 1080p/24 or 1080p/48 *over HDMI*, whereas the Pearl can (24?). However, I am coming to believe that the signal processing in the D2 may be helping lessen any judder issues I might see on film based material.


I agree with you that you might not want to interlace and deinterlace from the BD content.


I have not added BD or HD-DVD yet, so there may be issues I haven't seen yet. However, the OTA HD content I get is stunning when it's not overcompressed.


My philosophy is to use source and display components that pass signal along relatively unscathed, with minimal processing, and let the D2 do the work (as obie sez).


The nice thing is that you can try it different ways with the Anthem and see which looks best.


-Gordon


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I just wanted to let my fellow Anthem owners know that I ordered the Sony Pearl 1080p front projector. I am currently using the Sony VPL-HS51a 720p projector which I have been very happy with.
> 
> 
> Any of you guys own the Pearl? I know that there are a few who own the Ruby. I assume that setting the Anthem to output 1920x1080p/60 would provide 1:1 pixel mapping. The Pearl is capable of accepting a 1080p/24 signal also. I don't have any sources that can output 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> I have the following:
> 
> 
> Panasonic DMP-BD10 Blu-ray player - 1080p/60 output (1080p/24 conversion occuring within the player) - HDMI
> 
> 
> Toshiba HD-A1 HD DVD player - 1080i/60 output - HDMI
> 
> 
> Oppo 970HD - 480i - HDMI
> 
> 
> Scientific Atlanta 8300HD high def DVR/STB - Set to output native rez. - HDMI
> 
> 
> Sony DVP-CX995V - 400 Disc SACD/DVD player - 480i - Component
> 
> 
> 
> My plan is to set the Anthem to output 1920x1080p/60. Anyone who owns either the Ruby or Pearl care to comment??
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,


I do not own a Sony projector, but I do own a Pioneer FHD1 1080P plasma which is capable of accepting 1080P/24 and 1080P/60 and currently have an AVM50 on order. I believe that you should setup the Anthem for 1080P/24 output. The frame lock feature should be enabled on the HDMI input connected to your 8300HD (but not on the HD disc players). The frame lock feature will cause the Anthem to switch its output to 1080P/60 automatically when the Scientific Atlanta box is selected. Because the HD discs are mastered at 24Hz film rate, 24 Hz or a multiple of (such as 72) will provide the smoothest picture.


Ryan


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. I have a 5.2 set-up with M&K speakers--3 S-150 THX speakers in front, 2 ss-150 in back and 2 MX-150 subs in a large room 20 x 25? room. Do I really need this?



Need.....Need.......oh sorry, got confused there for a minute. YES, you absolutely do need the P5. I can say this as I have 6 s-150 THX, 2 ss 150, 3 mx350 and 1 mx150 sub. I came from a Denon 5805 and I have NEVER looked back. I mention the denon as it was very good to begin with and I believe that the A5 would be marginally better. The D2 with the P5 (and P2) is beautifully matched with the M&K's. The sound is truly 3 dimensional and markedly better than the lessor powered amp. I can honestly say that the auditory experience is unmatched by anything three times the price point. The M&Ks which have always been supreme with cinema have improved in the musical realm and almost require a re-education in listening skills at this caliber of technological achievement. Need.....need? Yes sir anything less would be a compromise! AND as you will discover compromise will not get you the Levesque/Pariseau secret handshake when you return for more.............


----------



## Bob Pariseau

....nor the secret decoder ring....

(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Thanks Ryan, Gordon, and Dreamcatcher. Ryan, the issue is that neither of the HD player that I have will do 1080p/24 at their output. Currently the only HD player that will is the Sony BDP-S1 and the jury is not back yet on the player. For the little I MAY gain from it's output what I give up when compared to the Panasonic won't be worth it.


Gordon, I plan on sending out native video from each source to the Anthem. I was looking to see what others were doing to garner a reference. At this point I think that I will set the output on the Anthem at 1080p/60 to begin with and see what that looks like. I will try 1080p/24 and see what happens there although I suspect I am just adding further processing to the signal which really is unnecessary.


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ralph,

Key to this is making sure the Anthem is doing any de-interlacing of 1080i to 1080p.


As I recall there was concern that one of the new players was decoding 1080p from the disc *AS 1080i*, and was then de-interlacing that (poorly) to 1080p to generate its actual 1080p output signal. If that's true, then it would be far better to input 1080i to the Anthem from that player (the best the player is ACTUALLY able to produce) and let the Anthem de-interlace to 1080p output for your display.


--------------------------------------------------------------


As for 24Hz output, understand that the Anthem can generate a pristine "film mode" signal for your display with either of two distinct types of video input:


1) The video source is sending 24 fps content (i.e., from a movie film) to the Anthem as a 1080p/24Hz signal.


2) The video source is sending 24 fps content to the Anthem as a 50Hz or 60Hhz signal produced by duplicating interlaced half-frames ("fields") periodically in a "cadence" that the Anthem can recognize. This is typically the way that films are output by standard def DVD players or cable/satellite set top boxes. Simply set the Anthem to output 24Hz and MANUALLY TURN OFF Frame Lock for the 50Hz or 60Hz input. The Anthem will sense the incoming cadence of repeated fields, strip them out (with no loss of info since they are just duplicates) and send the resulting 24fps imagery to the display as a 1080p/24Hz (or 48Hz) output. When viewing normal (non-film based) video from that 50Hz or 60Hz source, manually turn Frame Lock back on and the Anthem will switch to sending /50Hz or /60Hz to your display.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I was thinking the Pany could do 1080i48 for some stupid reason. Hopefully the newer HD DVD and Blu-ray players will have 1080P24 output. I'd like to feed 1080P24 in to the Anthem and output something like 960P at 48hz or 72hz. Yea I know I'm probablly the only CRT guy left.


----------



## budeone

My Sony says it has 1080p/24 out.. Thats what I set mine to


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ....nor the secret decoder ring....
> 
> (grin!)
> 
> --Bob



By the way Bob, I have been trying to follow the BM concerns/discussions you have been having and I believe that you are on to something that will definitely become a major topic of conversation once we all get past the basic WOW experiences with this technology. The ability to separate normal sub bass(for want of a better descriptor) from LFE not only for channel management but I believe for better Sub device (dedicated speaker) optimization will increasingly become relevant.


I really wanted to respond to your request for info on the audio dynamics of the D2 but I must confess the current experience is sooooo much better than with my previous setup that I can't really judge fairly whether it is the best it can be. I have not had a professional calibration done yet as now more than ever I really want to know that the individual really really knows what he or she is doing. Having said that I believe that the bass is still an issue with the Xa1/D2 HD DVD content. I just can't prove it yet.


Also the comments made to you regarding increasing importance on standards and adherence to them from the device makers are going to make more and more sense with each new revision. The danger we AVS obsessed fanatics will encounter is that the Statement D2 will increasingly be difficult to ignore as an integrated piece of the video/audio processing landscape and we still represent such a small fraction of the home theater population that our version of the standards necessary may be viewed by the industry as too narrow.


Peter


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My Sony says it has 1080p/24 out.. Thats what I set mine to




Greetings,


budeone, the BDP-S1 does do 1080p/24 but it is currently the only one that will.


Bob, the layer you are referring to is the Samsung. The Panasonic DMP-BD10 outputs 1080p/60.


I will set frame lock to off for the input that my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR is connected to. The remaining are all DVD players which should be fine.


Thanks.


Regards,


----------



## yatchaks

Ralph,


Congrats on your new addition (Sony Pearl). Be sure to let us know when you update your ht pics.


Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ralph,

I'm not sure you have followed this Frame Lock thing yet.


Since your display will accept 1080p/24Hz or /48Hz, set the output resolution and frame rate of the Anthem to that in Setup / Video Outputt. Use Frame Lock = ON for 60Hz inputs *ONLY* when you want the Anthem to shift it's output frame rate up to that "video mode" frame rate -- i.e., when watching TV shows and such.


Now for standard DVD playback, the player will send 480i to the Anthem, and if you turn Frame Lock on the Anthem will switch it's output to 1080p/60Hz. This will work, but is only ideal if you are playing standard DVD discs that come from video sources (e.g., old TV shows) or from modern computer animation transferred direct to the disc which is also typically done at the higher rate.


When playing typical movies transferred from film to the disc, you want to set the Anthem to Frame Lock = OFF! Then the Anthem will IGNORE the higher frame rate coming from the player, will sense and remove the repeat field cadence coming from the player, and the resulting 24Hz or 48Hz output to your display will be pristine.


For cable watching, leave Frame Lock = ON *UNLESS* you are watching a movie. With Frame Lock = ON the Anthem will shift its output to /60Hz which is what you want for video based stuff.


But if you are watching a movie, turn Frame Lock OFF. The Anthem will ignore the /60Hz coming from your set top box, will detect and discard the repeat cadence, and will produce proper /24Hz output.

--Bob


----------



## sfield

I have yet to get 1080i->[email protected] to work correctly with the Anthem, feeding a Sony Pearl projector where the source component is a Toshiba HD-A1. The image starts jerking into the film, the duration of the jerking varies.


Can somebody else who has the Pearl and a 1080i input confirm proper 1080i->[email protected] behavior with the Anthem?



I know the Sony Pearl correctly supports 24p playback, as confirmed by direct HTPC hookup.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ralph,
> 
> I'm not sure you have followed this Frame Lock thing yet.
> 
> 
> Since your display will accept 1080p/24Hz or /48Hz, set the output resolution and frame rate of the Anthem to that in Setup / Video Outputt. Use Frame Lock = ON for 60Hz inputs *ONLY* when you want the Anthem to shift it's output frame rate up to that "video mode" frame rate -- i.e., when watching TV shows and such.
> 
> 
> Now for standard DVD playback, the player will send 480i to the Anthem, and if you turn Frame Lock on the Anthem will switch it's output to 1080p/60Hz. This will work, but is only ideal if you are playing standard DVD discs that come from video sources (e.g., old TV shows) or from modern computer animation transferred direct to the disc which is also typically done at the higher rate.
> 
> 
> When playing typical movies transferred from film to the disc, you want to set the Anthem to Frame Lock = OFF! Then the Anthem will IGNORE the higher frame rate coming from the player, will sense and remove the repeat field cadence coming from the player, and the resulting 24Hz or 48Hz output to your display will be pristine.
> 
> 
> For cable watching, leave Frame Lock = ON *UNLESS* you are watching a movie. With Frame Lock = ON the Anthem will shift its output to /60Hz which is what you want for video based stuff.
> 
> 
> But if you are watching a movie, turn Frame Lock OFF. The Anthem will ignore the /60Hz coming from your set top box, will detect and discard the repeat cadence, and will produce proper /24Hz output.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## suthrn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You really need to know the signal type you need to output before starting to use the D2. So YCbCr 4:2:2 or 4:4:4, RGB or Extented RGB, the color space of your display (SDTV or HDTV), the ouput resolution of the scaler (and if you know it, you definitely want to output a 1:1 signal matching your diplay native resolution). etc. And I really hope that new owners will come ask any questions here... but only after asking Nick at Anthem first...



I am looking at the D2 but the only thing I know about my tv is the resolution, which I believe is 1368X768. It's a Sony LCD projection KDF-50WE655. If anyone knows the other stuff it would really help. Also, I have serached and read about a few problems using HD-DVD and the D2. I have the new HDA2 and wanted to find out if most of the problems have been addressed by Anthem or do they seem to just be on a few faulty machines? I am considering the D2 because of the high praise and I want to upgrade to something with HDMI but I don't want to have a bunch of problems using my current set up. This will be my first processor so I am kind of new to this. Sorry if the questions seem dumb. Any help or advice would be great. Thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suthrn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also, I have serached and read about a few problems using HD-DVD and the D2.



SHOW me the problems.


I have a HD-A1 and a D2.


PERFECT in every way!


----------



## Electron Mover

I have questions re. Dolby True Hd PCM over HDMI and how the Anthem AVM 50 handles it.

Does the processor allow for bass management and time alignment of Dolby True HD and DD+ PCM over HDMI from HD DVD players? Will it process the 5.1 channels to 7.1 channels?

Thanks,

Bill


----------



## obie_fl

Bill - In a word YES.


----------



## LEVESQUE

My dealer just confirmed that I should get both my new Toshiba HD-XA2 (HD-DVD) and Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1 (Blu-ray) around the 27th of december.










All those new toys to play with for Christmas!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My dealer just confirmed that I should get both my new Toshiba HD-XA2 (HD-DVD) and Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1 (Blu-ray) around the 27th of december.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All those new toys to play with for Christmas!



You mean as a BETA tester - you don't already HAVE THEM [GRIN]?


I might see mine BEFORE Christmas if Mr. FEDex is speedy.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You mean as a BETA tester - you don't already HAVE THEM [GRIN]?



Pre-production units = NDA, and they have to be ship back after a while.










I will receive regular production units in 2 weeks...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Pre-production units = NDA, and they have to be ship back after a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will receive regular production units in 2 weeks...



I know I know - I was just teasing.


I was told my production pioneer will ship before Christmas.

That could mean 12/22 at 5 PM [GRIN] in which case I won't

see it until after Christmas.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My dealer just confirmed that I should get both my new Toshiba HD-XA2 (HD-DVD) and Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1 (Blu-ray) around the 27th of december.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All those new toys to play with for Christmas!



Good thing Anthem firmware v1.10/1.11 provided more inputs!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good thing Anthem firmware v1.10/1.11 provided more inputs!



More inputs but same number of HDMI ports!


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

Ok. Thanks for input, nine ball. I ordered the combo D2/P5 today. Since they are going next to each other can someone tell me whether it really matters if I hook up with RCA or XLR. Is there a specific brand of cable or price range of cable I should use to hook them up? For that matter are you guys using the HDMI cables from the cable company or from the boxed DVD player or does it matter to spend more and if so how much? Sorry about all the basic questions, I'm just a stupid cardiologist looking for a superior entertainment experience in my down time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RCA cables between the D2 and P5 should be fine. XLR cables have an advantage for long runs and for environments with a lot of electrical interference.


HDMI cables are tricky. If you are running 1080p signals you need cables specifically made and tested for high bandwidth. Not all HDMI cables will work.


In addition, some source devices have really crappy HDMI implementations, and a high end HDMI cable may have just that slight bit less signal loss to avoid problems. Cable TV set top boxes from Motorola are a prime example of this.


I'd suggest you use the cables you've got first, but if you start having problems, an HDMI cable upgrade should be one of the first things you try.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k

Alright who's hogging all the parts?


I ordered my AVM40 about a week and a half ago. Talked to my local dealer this afternoon wondering where it is, he said he was wondering the same thing. So he called Paradigm/Anthem to find out. Looks like they haven't even shipped it yet. So I thought, hey this is a sign that I am suppose to get the AVM50. So he calls back, the AVM50 and the D2 are both backordered worst off that the AVM40. Is there something I am missing here? I haven't heard of anyone else having problems getting the D2 or the AVM50 until now.


And thanks to this little incident, now I can't get the AVM50 out of my head. Trying to decide if I should just go ahead and get it instead.


Darrell


P.S. I really need to block this site.


----------



## KCWolfPck

Neff,


I ordered my AVM-50 on 12/4. I was originally told I'd have it around between the 12th & 14th, but now that's been moved back to mid to late next week.


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

Thanks, Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Neff,
> 
> 
> I ordered my AVM-50 on 12/4. I was originally told I'd have it around between the 12th & 14th, but now that's been moved back to mid to late next week.



Maybe D2's are on backorder now - buy I ordered mine after Turkey

day and there were no backorders then!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well let's face it, D2s and AVM-50s make excellent stocking stuffers....

--Bob (if your chimney is wide enough) P.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well let's face it, D2s and AVM-50s make excellent stocking stuffers....
> 
> --Bob (if your chimney is wide enough) P.



None of my stockings hanging by the fireplace would hold that WEIGHT [GRIN]!


----------



## KCWolfPck

I'm kind of glad that my AVM-50 is delayed until closer to xmas. It is a present from my wife (she doesn't know it yet). It would have been hard to resist hooking it up early if it had come on time.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm kind of glad that my AVM-50 is delayed until closer to xmas. It is a present from my wife (she doesn't know it yet). It would have been hard to resist hooking it up early if it had come on time.



Come on [GRIN] - Present for your WIFE [GRIN]?


Maybe you can tell her that but not us [GRIN]!


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> None of my stockings hanging by the fireplace would hold that WEIGHT [GRIN]!




Easy to find a stocking to hold the D2, if only I could find a Santa to fill it with one.


I think my biggest delima in this whole decision is, would I really benefit any from the 50 vs the 40. I currently push video with my Denon 3910. Would I see any difference? My dealer isn't large enough to just have a 50 sitting on the shelf so I could see for myself.


Darrell


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Easy to find a stocking to hold the D2, if only I could find a Santa to fill it with one.
> 
> 
> I think my biggest delima in this whole decision is, would I really benefit any from the 50 vs the 40. I currently push video with my Denon 3910. Would I see any difference? My dealer isn't large enough to just have a 50 sitting on the shelf so I could see for myself.
> 
> 
> Darrell



BOTH the 50 and D2 are all about Video.


I don't know if your display is up to the VIDEO that both the 50

and D2 can output.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

neff2k,

I haven't played with a Denon 3910 in a while but I don't think it will pass the severe de-interlacing stress tests on the HQV test disc.


Get the HQV test disc (it's inexpensive). Set the Denon to output 480p or higher so that the Denon is doing the de-interlacing. Play the tests. Check out things like the empty seats in the background of the race car test. If you spot any problems then you can be absolutely certain that the AVM-50 will do a better job for you (when fed HDMI 480i from the player so that the ANTHEM is now doing the de-interlacing). The Gennum VXP de-interlacing and scaling passes those de-interlacing tests like a champ.


That's just a sample of how good the Gennum stuff is.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BOTH the 50 and D2 are all about Video.
> 
> 
> I don't know if your display is up to the VIDEO that both the 50
> 
> and D2 can output.



Hmmm didn't even think about that. Have a Hitachi 70VX915 Designer Series. Its almost exactly two years old. Not sure what specs you would need to answer that.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Get the HQV test disc (it's inexpensive).



I will pick that up. Seems I will have plenty of time to test and decide.


Thanks for the input.


on Edit: Seems someone already did my homework
Denon DVD-3910 DVD Player Resolution and HQV DVD Testing


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok. Thanks for input, nine ball. I ordered the combo D2/P5 today. Since they are going next to each other can someone tell me whether it really matters if I hook up with RCA or XLR. Is there a specific brand of cable or price range of cable I should use to hook them up? For that matter are you guys using the HDMI cables from the cable company or from the boxed DVD player or does it matter to spend more and if so how much? Sorry about all the basic questions, I'm just a stupid cardiologist looking for a superior entertainment experience in my down time.



As mentioned earlier, one advantage for XLRs is for long cable runs, which don't apply in your case. However, another advantage is that they will prevent potential ground loop hums. XLRs are more expensive. Look at http://www.bluejeanscables.com , where I got my XLRs. For HDMI, it depends. Some HDMI cables can't handle long runs or higher resolutions (e.g. 1080p) as other HDMI cables, so you'll have to experiment.


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Alright who's hogging all the parts?
> 
> 
> I ordered my AVM40 about a week and a half ago. Talked to my local dealer this afternoon wondering where it is, he said he was wondering the same thing. So he called Paradigm/Anthem to find out. Looks like they haven't even shipped it yet. So I thought, hey this is a sign that I am suppose to get the AVM50. So he calls back, the AVM50 and the D2 are both backordered worst off that the AVM40. Is there something I am missing here? I haven't heard of anyone else having problems getting the D2 or the AVM50 until now.
> 
> 
> And thanks to this little incident, now I can't get the AVM50 out of my head. Trying to decide if I should just go ahead and get it instead.
> 
> 
> Darrell
> 
> 
> P.S. I really need to block this site.



I've been waiting about 3 weeks for my AVM50. In fact, my dealer contacted me today to say it arrived. When I arrived to pick it up, I found out that they had ordered mine (in black) and another one (in silver) for another customer. Apparently, only the silver one arrived







Suffice to say I'm a little bit annoyed they didn't properly check if it had arrived before contacting me, but they are giving me a pretty good deal ... and said they'd make up for the lost time and gas.


----------



## suthrn

I think I know the answer to this but I still wanted to ask. Will my Comcast HD/SD look better going through the D2 via HDMI? And if so, should I set the STB to pass 1080i and 480i? I know some cable is 720 but I figure if the D2 does a good job it wont matter. Thanks.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok. Thanks for input, nine ball. I ordered the combo D2/P5 today. Since they are going next to each other can someone tell me whether it really matters if I hook up with RCA or XLR. Is there a specific brand of cable or price range of cable I should use to hook them up? For that matter are you guys using the HDMI cables from the cable company or from the boxed DVD player or does it matter to spend more and if so how much? Sorry about all the basic questions, I'm just a stupid cardiologist looking for a superior entertainment experience in my down time.



I do envy your first experience.....you are in for a treat. Bob is (as usual) correct with his observations. I have a short run and the RCA work well. The HDMI cable issues are very important especially if the run is more than 20 feet. I'm sorry I forget what your monitor is but if you plan on going anywhere near 1080P which should be your ideal then the bandwidth requirements become less and less trivial.


Note that there is a fairly significant power requirement for the p5 and that is one area I actually went to great effort to ensure that I had the recommended two 15amp dedicated circuits for the p5. Also it is strongly recommended that there not be any line conditioning on those two circuits. I don't think its fatal but the purist in me believes the rhetoric from the manual and the Anthem FAQ. Again Bob and or Levesque can comment more fully I believe. The P5 and P2 both run very cool if not cold. You will not believe the heat sinks and you will never forget the weight!!!!! I strongly advise maximum allowance for air circulation around the D2 as it is usually working hard. I wish I had the knowledge that Bob and Levesque do on the individual settings that are possible......all too often my brain just caves in when I try and follow the possibilities.


To all the other recent 'acquirers' of this technology......welcome aboard. Levesque is correct when he notes that the D2 with the rumored additional audio calibration facilities will put the D2 in a league of its own and the current delays for product availability will seem insignificant.


Peter


----------



## Milt99

neff2k,

You might want to consider an Oppo 970.

It puts out 480i via HDMI which would be ideal to feed the D2.

It's also dirt cheap and has excellent video.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

suthrn,

Your Comcast HD/SD box will look just spiffing through the D2 via HDMI!


Yes, set the Comcast to do 1080i for HDTV and 480i for SDTV since it doesn't have a "native" mode that will also automatically pass 720p. Set the Comcast box for a 16:9 TV without any pillar boxing for SDTV -- i.e., leave it to the Anthem to do that. Set the Anthem Scale Output to Letter/Pillar box if you want automatic pillar box bars for 4:3 content.


Set the Comcast box for YCbCr 4:4:4 HDMI output.


Run a separate optical cable from the Comcast to the D2 for audio as this will minimize the startup delay for audio when you change channels between SD and HD or the other way.


Beware that you may need to upgrade your HDMI cable from the Comcast box since the Comcast box has such a crappy implementation of the HDMI driver circuit. Beware that you may need to reenter your settings in the Comcast box from time to time when it has one of its periodic strokes and simply forgets.


Set the Anthem to HDMI Repeater = NO for the Comcast input. Do not forget this crucial step.


Calibrate the levels on your TV against the test patterns generated by the D2 itself. Then look for the INHD "Tune Up" program and the "Bars and Tones" program which can be found in both HD and SD on different channels from time to time and use that program to refine the D2's input settings for the Comcast (typically only modest color and tint adjustments).

--Bob


----------



## suthrn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> suthrn,
> 
> Your Comcast HD/SD box will look just spiffing through the D2 via HDMI!
> 
> 
> Yes, set the Comcast to do 1080i for HDTV and 480i for SDTV since it doesn't have a "native" mode that will also automatically pass 720p. Set the Comcast box for a 16:9 TV without any pillar boxing for SDTV -- i.e., leave it to the Anthem to do that. Set the Anthem Scale Output to Letter/Pillar box if you want automatic pillar box bars for 4:3 content.
> 
> 
> Set the Comcast box for YCbCr 4:4:4 HDMI output.
> 
> 
> Run a separate optical cable from the Comcast to the D2 for audio as this will minimize the startup delay for audio when you change channels between SD and HD or the other way.
> 
> 
> Beware that you may need to upgrade your HDMI cable from the Comcast box since the Comcast box has such a crappy implementation of the HDMI driver circuit. Beware that you may need to reenter your settings in the Comcast box from time to time when it has one of its periodic strokes and simply forgets.
> 
> 
> Set the Anthem to HDMI Repeater = NO for the Comcast input. Do not forget this crucial step.
> 
> 
> Calibrate the levels on your TV against the test patterns generated by the D2 itself. Then look for the INHD "Tune Up" program and the "Bars and Tones" program which can be found in both HD and SD on different channels from time to time and use that program to refine the D2's input settings for the Comcast (typically only modest color and tint adjustments).
> 
> --Bob



Thanks a ton for the info. As for the YCbCr stuff, do you have any advice for my HDA2 and my Sony KDF-50WE655? And just to make sure, set HDMI Repeater to OFF for the comcast? I am just wanting to make sure that when I do the set up I have it all right. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

suthrn,

Your options for the Repeater setting are Yes/No. You want No on the D2's Comcast input. This makes the D2 pretend to the Comcast box that the Comcast box is directly connected to a TV.


YCbCr is the usual color format for HDMI connections. RGB is the usual color format for DVI connections.


It all gets a little complicated, but that's the starting point. I just mentioned it for the Comcast box because sometimes, as part of having one of its strokes, it decides it must now be connected to a DVI display and so it reverts its output to RGB and you have to reset it yourself or you will get a poorer rendition of colors.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> neff2k,
> 
> I haven't played with a Denon 3910 in a while but I don't think it will pass the severe de-interlacing stress tests on the HQV test disc.
> 
> 
> Get the HQV test disc (it's inexpensive). Set the Denon to output 480p or higher so that the Denon is doing the de-interlacing. Play the tests. Check out things like the empty seats in the background of the race car test. If you spot any problems then you can be absolutely certain that the AVM-50 will do a better job for you (when fed HDMI 480i from the player so that the ANTHEM is now doing the de-interlacing). The Gennum VXP de-interlacing and scaling passes those de-interlacing tests like a champ.
> 
> 
> That's just a sample of how good the Gennum stuff is.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


I owned the Denon 3910 and used it for several months with my Anthem. The Denon does pass the speedway test sequence on the HQV disc however it does not detect it as quickly as the Gennum. I can tell you that using a player like the Oppo at 480i via HDMI to the Anthem offers performance that is slightly superior to the 3910 set at 720p. For me it was enough that I made the switch.



Regards,


----------



## LEVESQUE

nine ball


I'm using my P5 with 2x 20A dedicated circuits actually, and with 2x Panamax 4400-20A, and it's working pretty well.


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I owned the Denon 3910 and used it for several months with my Anthem. The Denon does pass the speedway test sequence on the HQV disc however it does not detect it as quickly as the Gennum. I can tell you that using a player like the Oppo at 480i via HDMI to the Anthem offers performance that is slightly superior to the 3910 set at 720p. For me it was enough that I made the switch.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Well told the local shop to change the order to a AVM50, decided I would regret it down the road if I didn't.


As for the DVD player. I will just going to order the Oppo. Doubt I will be getting rid of the 3910, would think it would be an excellent player for SACD and DVD-A's. Or are people found the Oppo does just as good of a job?


Question. Regular DVD's are considered raw 480i, what about HD-DVD? What is their native format?


Actually I just noticed the Toshiba HD-A2 can output 480i, does this work over HDMI as well?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well told the local shop to change the order to a AVM50, decided I would regret it down the road if I didn't.
> 
> 
> As for the DVD player. I will just going to order the Oppo. Doubt I will be getting rid of the 3910, would think it would be an excellent player for SACD and DVD-A's. Or are people found the Oppo does just as good of a job?
> 
> 
> Question. Regular DVD's are considered raw 480i, what about HD-DVD? What is their native format?




Merry Christmas - I'm sure you will like the AVM50.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well told the local shop to change the order to a AVM50, decided I would regret it down the road if I didn't.
> 
> 
> As for the DVD player. I will just going to order the Oppo. Doubt I will be getting rid of the 3910, would think it would be an excellent player for SACD and DVD-A's. Or are people found the Oppo does just as good of a job?
> 
> 
> Question. Regular DVD's are considered raw 480i, what about HD-DVD? What is their native format?
> 
> 
> Actually I just noticed the Toshiba HD-A2 can output 480i, does this work over HDMI as well?



Greetings,


The Denon is an excellent DVD-A/SACD player. The Oppo does a fine job with DVD-A disc via HDMI. I find it's SACD playback via HDMI to be less nto as good though. I use a seperate player for SACDs.


I believe the Toshiba will do 480i via component only.


HD DVD's disc are output at 1080i natively via HDMI/component.



Regards,


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suthrn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think I know the answer to this but I still wanted to ask. Will my Comcast HD/SD look better going through the D2 via HDMI? And if so, should I set the STB to pass 1080i and 480i? I know some cable is 720 but I figure if the D2 does a good job it wont matter. Thanks.




The one additional benefit of going Component from the Comcast box, aside from having to have gone through all the pain of a flaky HDMI connect from the Moto box that Bob went through, is getting the 720p out of ABC, ESPN-HD, and a couple more of the very few non-1080i HD channels. While I'm less of a zealot on SD upconversion, I prefer the native HD into the Anthem scaled to the destination device skipping a deinterlace. Calibration will make the color differences a non-difference.


The second additional benefit is that it may help you avoid running out of HDMI inputs like me, with some inputs like S3 HD Tivo not liking to go through a 1080p HDMI switcher before getting to Anthem, regardless of repeater settings.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> nine ball
> 
> 
> I'm using my P5 with 2x 20A dedicated circuits actually, and with 2x Panamax 4400-20A, and it's working pretty well.



Honestly Levesque, I was just trying to spare the good doctor a heart attack(pun intended)!!!!!I too put in not two but three 20 amp(P5 and P2) dedicated circuits to a separate dedicated 100 amp service that looks after the home theater building exclusively. The main house has a separate 200 amp service. I am curious however as the literature from Anthem specifically asked for NO line conditioning whatsoever which I assume would allow for true unfettered peaks to be delivered to the amps without any power conditioning. I do protect against surges but leave the frequency alone. Because I am completely isolated from the main house by a 30 foot sound proofed corridor I am prone to playing most material at reference levels. My wife has her own THX system that only ever processes Oprah!


I assume that if there is a difference without the PANAMAX that it would be so miniscule that we would be accused of esoteric irrelevance to discuss it here.


or would it?


Peter


----------



## neff2k

I can just imagine explaining this to the wife:


me, "Alright dear, if you want to watch regular DVD's use this Oppo one here, if you want to use HD-DVD's use this Toshiba player here, and finally if you want to listen to CD's, DVD-A, or SACD's use the Denon."


wife, "Why do we have three different player, wait... when did we get three different players?"


What happen to the good ole days of one player fits all!


----------



## DreamCatcher

In my opinion SACD sounds as good via the OPPO 970 to the D2 via HDMI as did the Denon 3930 to the D2 via multichannel analog. (I sold the 3930)

I think the 970/D2 combo has the advantage of fewer conversions and the D2 handles digital audio better than analog, imho.


dc


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can just imagine explaining this to the wife:
> 
> 
> me, "Alright dear, if you want to watch regular DVD's use this Oppo one here, if you want to use HD-DVD's use this Toshiba player here, and finally if you want to listen to CD's, DVD-A, or SACD's use the Denon."
> 
> 
> wife, "Why do we have three different player, wait... when did we get three different players?"
> 
> 
> What happen to the good ole days of one player fits all!



My TWO CENT Opinion - says it is TWO not Three.


I think the Oppo is redundant. I have a D2 feeding a Sony Ruby 1080p,

displaying on a 12ft. Screen.


I PLAY all my SD DVDs on the Toshiba. The Upconverting in the Toshiba

is as good as any scaler. I know Bob is MR. D2 when it comes to knowledge

of the D2 - but he doesn't own a Toshiba. You can check the Toshiba threads

and EVERYONE is happy with the ability of the Player to upconvert SD DVDs.


I don't think there is any way your EYES will be able to detect the difference.


That is MY TWO CENT OPINION for saving Marriages.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My TWO CENT Opinion - says it is TWO not Three.
> 
> 
> I think the Oppo is redundant. I have a D2 feeding a Sony Ruby 1080p,
> 
> displaying on a 12ft. Screen.
> 
> 
> I PLAY all my SD DVDs on the Toshiba. The Upconverting in the Toshiba
> 
> is as good as any scaler. I know Bob is MR. D2 when it comes to knowledge
> 
> of the D2 - but he doesn't own a Toshiba. You can check the Toshiba threads
> 
> and EVERYONE is happy with the ability of the Player to upconvert SD DVDs.
> 
> 
> I don't think there is any way your EYES will be able to detect the difference.
> 
> 
> That is MY TWO CENT OPINION for saving Marriages.



Greetings,


I agree that you don't need 3 players. I have 4 players in my system but that is my choice.


I have the following:


Toshiba HD-A1 HD DVD player

Panasonic DMP-BD10 - Blu-ray disc player

Oppo 970HD

Sony DVP-CX995 400 disc SACD/DVD player


I have 600 discs in my collection and it is growing. I use the Sony for CD/SACD playback and it currently is storing 200 of the discs in my collection as well as SACD and some CD's. I got it because I ran out of storage space and this allowed me to install DVD's that I like to have in my collection but that are not of "reference" quality. The cases are stored away in a closet. The player is not located in my theater room but is in an adjacent room controlled via RF using my Philips ProntoPro TSU7000.


The Toshiba and the Panasonic are used strictly for HD playback. The Oppo is used for SD DVD playback, and DVD-Audio. I Toshiba does a fair job of deinterlacing and upconverting however it does not do it as well as the Anthem. The difference is noticeable. I use a front projector as well and I can see it.


I disagree that the Oppo would be redundant. For $149 it is an excellent digital transport and is small enough to not be obtrusive.


Just my .02


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The one additional benefit of going Component from the Comcast box, aside from having to have gone through all the pain of a flaky HDMI connect from the Moto box that Bob went through, is getting the 720p out of ABC, ESPN-HD, and a couple more of the very few non-1080i HD channels. While I'm less of a zealot on SD upconversion, I prefer the native HD into the Anthem scaled to the destination device skipping a deinterlace. Calibration will make the color differences a non-difference.
> 
> 
> The second additional benefit is that it may help you avoid running out of HDMI inputs like me, with some inputs like S3 HD Tivo not liking to go through a 1080p HDMI switcher before getting to Anthem, regardless of repeater settings.



Hang on there! How do you get 720p over Component from the Comcast/Motorola box without screwing up 1080i channels??


As far as I knew, the Comcast/Motorola box only offers two resolutions at any one time -- one for HDTV channels that can be set at either 720p or 1080i BUT NOT BOTH, and one for SDTV that can be set to match the HDTV output, or to switch automatically to 480i or 480p. And as far as I knew that limitation was true for both HDMI and Component output!


Are you saying you found a "native resolution pass through mode" on the Comcast/Motorola box that will pass both 720p and 1080i HDTV over Component according to what's coming in, and without any user intervention?


Speak! We have ways of making you talk!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have yet to get 1080i->[email protected] to work correctly with the Anthem, feeding a Sony Pearl projector where the source component is a Toshiba HD-A1. The image starts jerking into the film, the duration of the jerking varies.
> 
> 
> Can somebody else who has the Pearl and a 1080i input confirm proper 1080i->[email protected] behavior with the Anthem?
> 
> 
> 
> I know the Sony Pearl correctly supports 24p playback, as confirmed by direct HTPC hookup.



sfield,

I'm astounded you haven't gotten any responses to this. I was sure we had people here using exactly this configuration. Surely by now someone else here has also tried this with this configuration.


Can you describe a little better what you are seeing? Does it look like the frame rate might be switching back and forth between /24Hz and /60Hz or simply that the cadence detection is getting screwed up and the /24Hz imagery is juddering because of it?


I presume you are watching with Frame Lock = OFF when this happens and your Setup / Video Output is set for 1080p/24Hz, right?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can just imagine explaining this to the wife:
> 
> 
> me, "Alright dear, if you want to watch regular DVD's use this Oppo one here, if you want to use HD-DVD's use this Toshiba player here, and finally if you want to listen to CD's, DVD-A, or SACD's use the Denon."
> 
> 
> wife, "Why do we have three different player, wait... when did we get three different players?"
> 
> 
> What happen to the good ole days of one player fits all!



Think of all the engineers and their happy little children you are feeding by buying all these players!


OK, OK, I've been watching "The Fifth Element" too much.....

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I agree that you don't need 3 players. I have 4 players in my system but that is my choice.
> 
> 
> I have the following:
> 
> 
> Toshiba HD-A1 HD DVD player
> 
> Panasonic DMP-BD10 - Blu-ray disc player
> 
> Oppo 970HD
> 
> Sony DVP-CX995 400 disc SACD/DVD player
> 
> 
> I have 600 discs in my collection and it is growing. I use the Sony for CD/SACD playback and it currently is storing 200 of the discs in my collection as well as SACD and some CD's. I got it because I ran out of storage space and this allowed me to install DVD's that I like to have in my collection but that are not of "reference" quality. The cases are stored away in a closet. The player is not located in my theater room but is in an adjacent room controlled via RF using my Philips ProntoPro TSU7000.
> 
> 
> The Toshiba and the Panasonic are used strictly for HD playback. The Oppo is used for SD DVD playback, and DVD-Audio. I Toshiba does a fair job of deinterlacing and upconverting however it does not do it as well as the Anthem. The difference is noticeable. I use a front projector as well and I can see it.
> 
> 
> I disagree that the Oppo would be redundant. For $149 it is an excellent digital transport and is small enough to not be obtrusive.
> 
> 
> Just my .02
> 
> 
> Regards,




I agree 100%


I have the Toshiba XA1(soon to be replaced with the XA2)

Oppo 970 HD

sony 777ES (400 disks)

Escient fireball to find and manage my library (2000)

XBox 360 with HDDVD

HP z558 entertainment center with 2 terb (going to 20) of attached storage

Ruby with a 110" stewart screen (firehawk)


My best device for SD material is the oppo by far. The D2 loves the 480i over HDMI. I have nothing short of HDDVD that comes anywhere close. The oppo is the ideal transport for the D2....better than the XA1 for sure.


As far as the wife factor.......first use the same P5 box to bring all the new stuff in and take the old stuff out. "sorry, honey, its flaky equipment that needs alot of maintenance". Then get her her own system with two buttons......Oprah ON and Oprah OFF.


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Peter,

I believe you can add a "Watch Oprah" activity to the Harmony 880 remote...

--bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> sfield,
> 
> I'm astounded you haven't gotten any responses to this. I was sure we had people here using exactly this configuration. Surely by now someone else here has also tried this with this configuration.
> 
> 
> Can you describe a little better what you are seeing? Does it look like the frame rate might be switching back and forth between /24Hz and /60Hz or simply that the cadence detection is getting screwed up and the /24Hz imagery is juddering because of it?
> 
> 
> I presume you are watching with Frame Lock = OFF when this happens and your Setup / Video Output is set for 1080p/24Hz, right?
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I thought, based on Levesque's comments that the D2 would/could only pass 1080P 24 to the ruby over component and not over HDMI? or have I missunderstood Levesque. I currently run 1080P /60. Should I switch?


Peter


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Peter,
> 
> I believe you can add a "Watch Oprah" activity to the Harmony 880 remote...
> 
> --bob



I can't believe you said that.......I did...REALLY I did but she won't use it. So I'm hoping that the new Harmony 1000 touch sensitive screen with the icons that even a houseplant can use will be worth trying.


Peter


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can just imagine explaining this to the wife:
> 
> 
> me, "Alright dear, if you want to watch regular DVD's use this Oppo one here, if you want to use HD-DVD's use this Toshiba player here, and finally if you want to listen to CD's, DVD-A, or SACD's use the Denon."
> 
> 
> wife, "Why do we have three different player, wait... when did we get three different players?"
> 
> 
> What happen to the good ole days of one player fits all!



In my case I even got a dedicated transport strictly to play CDs, nothing else. We are all here just to get the best out of these little disks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Peter,

The D2 is spec'ed to output processed HDMI up to 1080p/60Hz -- and that includes /24Hz (in the menu) and /48Hz (in the custom resolutions via Live Video Settings Editor I believe).


Component output from the D2 is spec'ed at 1080p/60Hz only for UNprocessed -- pass through -- signals.


Processed Component output from the D2 is spec'ed at 1080i/60Hz or 1080p/30Hz -- which would include 1080p/24Hz.


Now I don't know what limitations the Ruby or Pearl may place on their input signals. Someone with those is going to have to handle that side of it.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My TWO CENT Opinion - says it is TWO not Three.
> 
> 
> I think the Oppo is redundant. I have a D2 feeding a Sony Ruby 1080p,
> 
> displaying on a 12ft. Screen.
> 
> 
> I PLAY all my SD DVDs on the Toshiba. The Upconverting in the Toshiba
> 
> is as good as any scaler. I know Bob is MR. D2 when it comes to knowledge
> 
> of the D2 - but he doesn't own a Toshiba. You can check the Toshiba threads
> 
> and EVERYONE is happy with the ability of the Player to upconvert SD DVDs.
> 
> 
> I don't think there is any way your EYES will be able to detect the difference.
> 
> 
> That is MY TWO CENT OPINION for saving Marriages.










If the Toshiba is so good than why even bother getting a high end scaler? I have both the Oppo and the Toshiba and never use the Toshiba for my 480i transport.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, I thought, based on Levesque's comments that the D2 would/could only pass 1080P 24 to the ruby over component and not over HDMI? or have I missunderstood Levesque. I currently run 1080P /60. Should I switch?
> 
> 
> Peter



I believe the Ruby will accept 1080p24 ONLY over DVI.


But then I could be wrong!


But I do know the Rudy version of 24p is 24spf.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the Toshiba is so good than why even bother getting a high end scaler? I have both the Oppo and the Toshiba and never use the Toshiba for my 480i transport.



For 6 months I used the Toshiba feeding my CRT Projector at 1080i

without any scalar.


Then I upgraded to a 1080p Sony Ruby.


I bought a D2 to upgrade my audio chain because of HDMI PCM

decoding. The scalar was stuck inside the D2. But I'm not

complaining - it does upconvert from 1080i to 1080p.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drhankz,

The problem with getting a handle on this "video quality" stuff is that it is almost all about the handling of "problem content". If the only SD DVDs you play have no problems you will be hard pressed to see the difference between an average de-interlacing solution and a great one such as is found in the D2.


However, there are literally tons of DVDs out there that have problematic content. These are DVDs that are mis-coded, that have strange edits, that have strange "cadences", etc., etc. If you ever get the urge to learn just how bad this can be, read the very detailed tutorial info on the "Secrets of Home Theater" web site (you can find it via a quick Google). Be warned, however, that once you learn what to look for you are going to see these problems ALL THE TIME and they will get increasingly annoying unless you are using a truly good de-interlacer.


Scaling requires de-interlacing. When the Toshiba is sending you scaled SD DVD output then it is doing the de-interlacing. The original Toshiba can't send HDMI 480i so even if you set it to 480p it is doing the de-interlacing. If you set the Toshiba to 1080i it is de-interlacing, scaling, and then RE-interlacing SD DVDs.


De-interlacing aside, scaling comes with its own gotchas. But except for dealing with mismatched resolutions, and the usual gotchas of pixel cropping and such, scaling problems are harder to see. And the basics of passing the signal also come with gotchas, such as clipping of info near black or near reference white.


The Toshiba may do an OK job on good, film-based DVDs, but using a simple transport like the Oppo 970 at HDMI 480i and leaving it to the D2 to do the rest means you will get a good result on ALL SD DVDs.


That said, if you are not seeing problems using the Toshiba I would not recommend you go looking for them.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe the Ruby will accept 1080p24 ONLY over DVI.
> 
> 
> But then I could be wrong!
> 
> 
> But I do know the Rudy version of 24p is 24spf.





You are right! Levesque did say exactly that. only over DVI. Forgive the obviously dumb question (but that is how I seem to learn) the difference between 24p and 24spf is????


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are right! Levesque did say exactly that. only over DVI. Forgive the obviously dumb question (but that is how I seem to learn) the difference between 24p and 24spf is????



That is a $5 Million Dollar question.


I looked for a white paper I had explaining it and even when I

read it I got confused.


If I can find it again - I will post something here.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That said, if you are not seeing problems using the Toshiba I would not recommend you go looking for them.
> 
> --Bob



Maybe I'm just easy to please [GRIN]!


But on a 12ft screen - if I wasn't happy I would do something.


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can't believe you said that.......I did...REALLY I did but she won't use it. So I'm hoping that the new Harmony 1000 touch sensitive screen with the icons that even a houseplant can use will be worth trying.
> 
> 
> Peter




Sad thing is it's not even the remote that would be a problem for my wife(880). That is the simple part. Explaining which DVD is which and which player it goes in where.... Afraid as soon as I started explaining that, the glazed over eyes would be staring me down.










By the way got a call from my dealer this morning with some very interesting information. Seems I am looking at mid to end of January before my AVM50 will be here. Something is fishy. That means it will be a couple weeks after CES. So what does Anthem have up their sleeves?


----------



## LEVESQUE

The Ruby can accept 1080p48, and only over DVI. But not 1080p24


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Ruby can accept 1080p48, and only over DVI. But not 1080p24



Hi LEVESQUE


You are PROBABLY VERY CORRECT as usual.


But in all honesty - NONE of that is in any Sony Ruby Documentation.

I went though the whole manual just an hour ago looking for it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

LEVESQUE,

I presume you have to set /48Hz in Live Video Settings Editor, right?


What's the story with the Pearl, and do you have any ideas about the problem Sfield is having?

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Toshiba may do an OK job on good, film-based DVDs, but using a simple transport like the Oppo 970 at HDMI 480i and leaving it to the D2 to do the rest means you will get a good result on ALL SD DVDs.



Exactly. The Toshiba is awful with Anime, and since I listen to alot of those, I use the Oppo 970 at 480i to the D2. Much better.


But for regular film-based DVDs, I agree that the Toshiba is pretty good on it's own.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Ruby can accept 1080p48, and only over DVI. But not 1080p24



I finally found one note in the Sony Ruby Manual.


Memory Location # 9 is programmed to be


1080/24PsF which is 1080/48i and it can ONLY BE USED with *COMPONENT* Input!


That is what the MANUAL says.


I like Levesque's Answer Better - but I have never tried it.

I will when my Pioneer Blu-Ray Arrives.


----------



## suthrn

Since the new Toshiba HDA2 passes 480i over HDMI then there would be no need to use something like the Oppo, right? Just let the D2 do all the work?


----------



## Tolstoi




neff2k said:


> Sad thing is it's not even the remote that would be a problem for my wife(880). That is the simple part. Explaining which DVD is which and which player it goes in where.... Afraid as soon as I started explaining that, the glazed over eyes would be staring me down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> My wife is a business women always rushing on something. Every second count. She can't stand the Toshiba HD-A1. For the first time ever she is the one asking for an upgrade... Get that PS out of here


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suthrn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since the new Toshiba HDA2 passes 480i over HDMI then there would be no need to use something like the Oppo, right? Just let the D2 do all the work?



In theory yes, however there are other things the player can screw up in the processs of decoding the data coming off the disc and formulating the HDMI 480i output. Clipping Blacker than Black and/or Peak White data for example, or various MPEG decoder issues.


Early reports are that the new Toshiba is fine at HDMI 480i, but I've looked and have not been able to find an analysis yet from the only folks I really trust to test this stuff right -- Kris Deering, Stacey Speers, et. al.


In addition, there are reports that this player is having trouble even playing certain DVDs. It used to be quite common that DVD players had pecularities that only showed up on certain DVDs -- different ones for different players -- but it is much less common today. Apparently Toshiba has reprised this theme.


So I'd say the jury is still out on the new Toshiba as regards SD DVDs.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suthrn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since the new Toshiba HDA2 passes 480i over HDMI then there would be no need to use something like the Oppo, right? Just let the D2 do all the work?




Is this confirmed? I could find the answer in the A2 thread...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is this confirmed? I could find the answer in the A2 thread...



I found three different posts from people saying HDMI 480i was working from the new A2. Unless all three of them are confused, I think the answer is that it works.


What I have no confidence in yet is that it works well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I finally found one note in the Sony Ruby Manual.
> 
> 
> Memory Location # 9 is programmed to be
> 
> 
> 1080/24PsF which is 1080/48i and it can ONLY BE USED with *COMPONENT* Input!
> 
> 
> That is what the MANUAL says.
> 
> 
> I like Levesque's Answer Better - but I have never tried it.
> 
> I will when my Pioneer Blu-Ray Arrives.



I'm really stretching my memory on this one, but my recollection is that there was an upgrade to the Ruby that enhanced it's DVI capabilities. I do not recall if this was firmware or hardware, nor precisely what the improvement was supposed to accomplish, nor when Ruby's might have started shipping with this already in place.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm really stretching my memory on this one, but my recollection is that there was an upgrade to the Ruby that enhanced it's DVI capabilities. I do not recall if this was firmware or hardware, nor precisely what the improvement was supposed to accomplish, nor when Ruby's might have started shipping with this already in place.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob:


Mine is only three months old and if nothing else - the manual that

came with it - SAYS Component Only.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm really stretching my memory on this one, but my recollection is that there was an upgrade to the Ruby that enhanced it's DVI capabilities. I do not recall if this was firmware or hardware, nor precisely what the improvement was supposed to accomplish, nor when Ruby's might have started shipping with this already in place.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob:


From a Sony Ruby Thread - here on AVS.


A sony Owner reached a executive from Sony USA - who was

very technically Competent and asked him LIVE - could the Ruby be

upgrade in ANY WAY to accept 1080p/24 as the Pearl does?


The ANSWER was NO WAY - the Pearl was Gen 3 hardware and was

totally different from the Gen 2 Ruby Hardware.


That still leaves the 48 question open for the Ruby however.


----------



## neff2k

I think Bob should go out and pick up a A2 and let us know how it goes! Anyone else agree?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think Bob should go out and pick up a A2 and let us know how it goes! Anyone else agree?



Bob Needs a *BIG ROUND OF Cheers and Applause* from all

of us on this thread.


His answers are timely and extremely detailed.


If he got HD DVD or Blu-Ray - he wouldn't have much time

for his responses here [GRIN]!


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm really stretching my memory on this one, but my recollection is that there was an upgrade to the Ruby that enhanced it's DVI capabilities. I do not recall if this was firmware or hardware, nor precisely what the improvement was supposed to accomplish, nor when Ruby's might have started shipping with this already in place.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, that was for the Sony Qualia, not the Ruby.


----------



## suthrn

I am by no means near as up on this stuff as most in this thread but I do have the A2 and hope to have a D2 next week, so if and when I get my machine I will give my uneducated feedback.


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> By the way got a call from my dealer this morning with some very interesting information. Seems I am looking at mid to end of January before my AVM50 will be here. Something is fishy. That means it will be a couple weeks after CES. So what does Anthem have up their sleeves?



neff2k,

These machines are hand built and tested in Ontario, Canada ... with relatively low volume. I've been waiting 3.5 weeks for mine, and I'm still hopeful it will arrive before Christmas (but not really sure). If the pre-Christmas shipment is already allocated to dealers, your delay is probably just due to a holiday shutdown.


----------



## suthrn

LEVESQUE? My mother-in-laws maiden name. Hopefully you aren't related or I lose all confidence in your opinions. JK


----------



## neff2k

While I agree that Bob has been an excellent resource throughout these boards especially this thread, I give credit to a large amount of people here. Just reading this thread alone (On page 34 now), has helped me understand a lot of the fundamental points of audio/video. So thank you to all of you guys for your input. I hope you realize how much everyone appreciates it!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> neff2k,
> 
> These machines are hand built and tested in Ontario, Canada ... with relatively low volume. I've been waiting 3.5 weeks for mine, and I'm still hopeful it will arrive before Christmas (but not really sure). If the pre-Christmas shipment is already allocated to dealers, your delay is probably just due to a holiday shutdown.



Yeah its not like I am suffering with my existing setup (Denon 3805). Just once you make the decision you can't wait to have it in your hands. Be sure to let us know when you get it.


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> While I agree that Bob has been an excellent resource throughout these boards especially this thread, I give credit to a large amount of people here. Just reading this thread alone (On page 34 now), has helped me understand a lot of the fundamental points of audio/video. So thank you to all of you guys for your input. I hope you realize how much everyone appreciates it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah its not like I am suffering with my existing setup (Denon 3805). Just once you make the decision you can't wait to have it in your hands. Be sure to let us know when you get it.



Wow, I also too currently own a 3805


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob Needs a *BIG ROUND OF Cheers and Applause* from all
> 
> of us on this thread.
> 
> 
> His answers are timely and extremely detailed.
> 
> .
> 
> [GRIN]!



I can honestly say that Levesque and Bob have, with unbelievable patience helped many of us find the best ways to maximize the benefits of not only the D2 but the surrounding technology. My lifelong passion for home theater has been enhanced a thousandfold. Every time I catch one of your responses to a challenging question I learn a little bit more.


By the way, I finally read Levesque's review of the D2 and highly recommend it to anyone who wants a reasonably thorough overview. Well done Levesque. I actually believe that you were far more balanced than I would have been. I am in total awe of this technology and I know from listening to both you and Bob Pariseau that its only going to get better with a little more discipline on my part in following your advice and coaching.


I thank you both. My wife hates you both equally.............


Peter


----------



## DOBE

I have 2 questions buried in this post. Thanks.


I put a system together almost 4 years ago. It's still an excellent system, but I want more. You fellow audio/videoholics know what I mean. Technology marches forward and I'm now trying to replace some of my equipment. I'm keeping my M&K speakers because this is a HT only system and I believe these are still the best speakers available for HT. SECRETS review by Collin Miller 


I'm seriously looking at the 65" Panasonic 1080P plasma. It only does 1080P/60. I may wait to see what the new 65" 1080P Fujitsu can do. I now own a 50" Fujitsu and love it.


1. How important is it to wait until there is a 65" plasma (asuming that's the kind of display you want) that accepts 1080P/24 and internally scans to 48 or 72Hz and accepts 1080P/60Hz. Apparently the 50" Pioneer Elite is the only plasma that currently does that . However 50" is too small for me. The up-coming 65" Fujitsu may do it.


I'm using a Pioneer Elite 49Txi avr and will be replacing it with the D2. I contacted the sound engineer at M&K. He's been in the sound business for decades and is a fountain of knowledge. He's referred to in the "Secrets" review above. I didn't really ask him his opinion of the Anthem, but here's what he said:


"The Anthem is SUPERB - my favorite HT device of all time. I am SURE that when you get rid of that awful Pioneer and get the Anthem you will have to pick your jaw up off the floor."


He's known for his very strong knowledgable opinions, but I was still surprised he offered this strong an opinion. So his very valued opinion plus you guys have sold me on the D2.


2. What SD DVD player should I buy? It seems like the choice is between the Pioneer Elite 79avi and the Oppo 970 HD. I want a player that competently passes a 480i signal over HDMI.


It seems strange to buy all this high end equipment and then spend less than $150 on a DVD player. Other than build quality, is there any advantage to buying the Pioneer over the Oppo ... considering that they both will be feed to the D2?


This thread has been incredibly valuable. Thanks.


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I thank you both. My wife hates you both equally.............
> 
> 
> Peter



Luckily my wife doesn't know they exist, yet


----------



## nine ball

Dobe,

I can't answer your video question(I have a ruby) but you were able to do something that I tried to do before I bought my D2 and that was to ask M&K their opinion. I wrote but got no response. I am a M&K bigot to be honest....for the same reason that you have advanced here......they are uniquely qualified for the best theater performance. I took the plunge and can only tell you that the results are deeper,cleaner and bring a refined presence to reference material that is truly unmatched by anything I have heard before. AND all this is before any calibration! I do understand your reluctance to accept the Oppo in the mix but it really does work well and I have yet to hear anyone present a valid comparison with the pioneer that made me regret the Oppo decision.



Peter


----------



## mjavman

Dobe, and everyone else.


Haven't posted for a while as I had no forward progress becuase I decided to wait for the 65" Panny. So this wednesday I begin install of:


65" Pannny

Toshiba HD

Oppo 970

MCA 50

HTPC w/ Blu-Ray


And of course a D2 at the heart. All connections will be HDMI (HTPC will be dvi to hdmi with digital optical for sound)


I will let everyone know how it goes. I'm using a professional installer to do the video callibration.


Dobe - I went with the 970 because it is true 480i over HDMI and almost everyone in these forums says it is incredible. I think my question is do I want to spend 5-8x more on a pioneer and see potentially little to no improvement. Besides at the price for the oppo, if I don't like it I can always move it to another TV and get a pioneer.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1. How important is it to wait until there is a 65" plasma (asuming that's the kind of display you want) that accepts 1080P/24 and internally scans to 48 or 72Hz and accepts 1080P/60Hz.
> 
> 2. What SD DVD player should I buy? It seems like the choice is between the Pioneer Elite 79avi and the Oppo 970 HD. I want a player that competently passes a 480i signal over HDMI.
> 
> .


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My biases:


* If I had to buy a new SD DVD player today I would buy the Oppo 970. Period. And that's from someone currently using a Pioneer Elite DV-59avi. The only other viable option is to step up to a Denon 5910, but then you are paying a SUBSTANTIAL price premium for only modest noise reduction improvement over what the D2 can already do for you.


* However I would rather wait until I can buy either an HD-DVD or Blue Ray player that is as good as the Oppo for "legacy" formats. I don't really want to buy both since I think that's just catering to the industry.


* If you are going to buy a new display today for your primary, critical viewing area, you really owe it to yourself to get a quality 1080p native resolution display that can accept 1080p/24Hz or 1080p/48Hz input and display that at 1080p/48Hz, or 1080p/72Hz or a higher multiple of 24. Accepting 1080p/24Hz input and displaying it at either 1080p/24Hz or 1080p/60Hz is *NOT* an acceptable option. Expect more such displays next year, and expect that they will be differentiated by other critical characteristics such as black level, ease of calibration, and price.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sad thing is it's not even the remote that would be a problem for my wife(880). That is the simple part. Explaining which DVD is which and which player it goes in where.... Afraid as soon as I started explaining that, the glazed over eyes would be staring me down.



Heck you've got it easy! There's an old post over in the standard def DVD forum from someone plaintively asking how to deal with having found a peanut butter and jelly sandwich his kids put in the disc tray of his player.


Which is almost as good as the guy in the flat panel display forum wondering the best way to deal with his uber-expensive plasma having been hit with a paint-ball bullet. He was in a panic for a quick answer because the paint was drying.


The solution to your problem is to have only one player accessible -- the one for standard DVDs most likely. Put the others behind a locked cabinet door and deny they exist. They are only for the "projectionist" to use.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The only other viable option is to step up to a Denon 5910, but then you are paying a SUBSTANTIAL price premium for only modest noise reduction improvement over what the D2 can already do for you.



For the price of the Denon 5910ci (that can ONLY play standard DVDs), you can buy the Toshiba HD-AX2 (the top HD-DVD player), the Pioneer Elite Blu-ray player (or a PS3 and alot of games to play), the Oppo 970, and for good noise reduction, you can also buy the Algolith Flea instead for alot cheaper.


And I think you still have some money left after buying all this, compared to the price of the 5910ci.


----------



## drhankz

Previously I had mentioned a White Paper on 24p.


I had time to find it for your education or confusion.


ENJOY!

http://www.leitch.com/resources/whit.../Whatis24P.pdf


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Previously I had mentioned a White Paper on 24p.
> 
> 
> I had time to find it for your education or confusion.
> 
> 
> ENJOY!
> 
> http://www.leitch.com/resources/whit.../Whatis24P.pdf



Thank you very much for taking the trouble.......I'll give it a try!


Peter


What I think I learned.......


1.a) If in fact the sony 'Ruby' supports spf that's a good thing for legacy film formats.


1b). There are some sync's like 1080p 24spf that the 'Ruby' does not accept and obviously must be avoided.


2. the Genum card in the D2 appears to provide the greatest likleyhood of finding the appropriate match (sync) from input to output over any other similarly priced AV Preprocessors.


3. The recently added detailed configuration per input with the possibilities of multiple profiles per input could be a HUGE advantage to a disciplined educated home theater operator.


What I now don't know, that I didn't know, that I didn't know before reading this article!!!!!!


1. How much does the end user have to know about the source construction in this context or does the technology understand and take the best syncing method by default?


2. If the Ruby doesn't accept 24spf or 24p then can the D2 send anything to the Ruby that does NOT introduce artifacts? If it can will it do it without operator knowledge or intervention?


Does anyone have medication for this........my head hurts.


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

24p and 24psf are entirely equivalent as far as imaging quality for film-base content. It is just a matter of how the data -- the IDENTICAL data -- is transferred from one device to the next. Either way, at the end of each "frame time" the same identical data ends up at the other end of the cable. Some devices just find it easier to deal with data presented as if it were two interlaced fields arriving one after the other instead of already combined together into the progressive frame.


However, to get the visual advantage, the display device needs to display that signal at a frame rate which is a multiple of 24Hz. Sending 24p or 24psf to a display which actually displays it at 60Hz will give you no advantage.


And displaying at 24Hz will give you that advantage, but will produce a degree of "flicker" that is annoying to many people. Displaying at 48Hz or 72Hz gives the same visual advantage without the flicker. Movie theater projectors actually have shutters which artificially block the light 1 or 2 additional times DURING each frame of film to make the flicker rate 48Hz or 72Hz even though the film frames are only changing at 24Hz.

--Bob


----------



## DOBE

nine ball, mjavman and Bob: Thanks for the feedback. The Oppo 970 it is. I notice Oppo released a new model. It's the Oppo DV981HD. It's $229, but there's no 480i via HDMI. I better grab the 970 before they discontinue it.


mjavman: Be sure to let us know how the D2 performs with the 65" Panny. I don't know of anyone else using that combination.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for taking the trouble.......I'll give it a try!
> 
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have medication for this........my head hurts.
> 
> 
> Peter



Same thing I learned - My Head Hurt and I felt DRUNK [GRIN]!


Of course I OFTEN feel DRUNK [GRIN]!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 2. If the Ruby doesn't accept 24spf
> 
> Peter



From what I know that is the only 24 format the

Ruby Accepts which is what makes it WEIRD!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> nine ball, mjavman and Bob: Thanks for the feedback. The Oppo 970 it is. I notice Oppo released a new model. It's the Oppo DV981HD. It's $229, but there's no 480i via HDMI. I better grab the 970 before they discontinue it.
> 
> 
> mjavman: Be sure to let us know how the D2 performs with the 65" Panny. I don't know of anyone else using that combination.



The Oppo 981 is a replacement for the Oppo 971. Both of these are intended for use by people who need the PLAYER to do the scaling. They are a little more expensive because they have a better scaler inside. Not anywhere near as good as the Anthem's scaler however. The 981 replaces the DVI output in the older 971 with an HDMI output.


The Oppo 970 is intended for use by people who have a good scaler that accepts HDMI 480i -- either in their TV or in something like the Anthem. The Oppo 970 can be set to do its own scaling but it is just not that great at it. However as a transport for people with a good external scaler it is excellent. Right now I believe it has only one outstanding problem and that is when playing SACD discs that are intended to play from track to track without any muting between tracks. I believe Oppo is still working on their fix for this. The 970 is also no good for Component video output. Its forte is HDMI 480i.


But that aside, there's really no point in Oppo replacing or discontinuing the 970. It is pretty dang close to perfect right now, and is selling well to people with good HDMI scalers.

--Bob


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Right now I believe it has only one outstanding problem and that is when playing SACD discs that are intended to play from track to track without any muting between tracks. I believe Oppo is still working on their fix for this. --Bob



I can confirm that the issue of gapless playback has been fixed in the latest beta from Oppo. Its been out for at least a month now for public download.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can confirm that the issue of gapless playback has been fixed in the latest beta from Oppo. Its been out for at least a month now for public download.



Cool! But Oppo still considers this 970 software upgrade to be just a Beta test release, right? That is, they haven't finalized their testing on it, and it is not currently shipping in newly ordered 970's, right?

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have 2 questions buried in this post. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 2. What SD DVD player should I buy? It seems like the choice is between the Pioneer Elite 79avi and the Oppo 970 HD. I want a player that competently passes a 480i signal over HDMI.
> 
> 
> It seems strange to buy all this high end equipment and then spend less than $150 on a DVD player. Other than build quality, is there any advantage to buying the Pioneer over the Oppo ... considering that they both will be feed to the D2?
> 
> 
> This thread has been incredibly valuable. Thanks.



I have a Pioneer Elite 79AVi, and I think one advantage over the Oppo is that it is a superb CD/SACD/DVD-A player. This player is well known and widely reviewed as having great sonic properties, here's a quote.



> Quote:
> *Ultimate AV - Thomas Norton* - On CDs, the Pioneer surprised me in that it exceeded even the very fine performance I heard from the older (and more expensive) Pioneer Elite DV-59AVi. Certainly most of the credit here for both the DVD-Video(DD and DTS) and CD (PCM) performance goes to the D/A converters in the Anthem processor I used for most of the listening tests, but I've been around the block long enough to know that, for CDs at least, the digital transport matters, and I had no complaints about the DV-79AVi on that score.



Here's a link to the full article. Review of Pioneer 79AVi 


I must say that I heard a substantial improvement in CD and SACD music quality in my system, with imaging and clarity that I had never heard before.


All that said, if you already have a very good or adequate CD music transport, then go with the Oppo.


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a Pioneer Elite 79AVi, and I think one advantage over the Oppo is that it is a superb CD/SACD/DVD-A player. This player is well known and widely reviewed as having great sonic properties, here's a quote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a link to the full article. Review of Pioneer 79AVi
> 
> 
> I must say that I heard a substantial improvement in CD and SACD music quality in my system, with imaging and clarity that I had never heard before.
> 
> 
> All that said, if you already have a very good or adequate CD music transport, then go with the Oppo.



mlbrand: Thanks for the input. This is an HT (including *TV*) only system.


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My biases:
> 
> ....
> 
> 
> * If you are going to buy a new display today for your primary, critical viewing area, you really owe it to yourself to get a quality 1080p native resolution display that can accept 1080p/24Hz or 1080p/48Hz input and display that at 1080p/48Hz, or 1080p/72Hz or a higher multiple of 24. Accepting 1080p/24Hz input and displaying it at either 1080p/24Hz or 1080p/60Hz is *NOT* an acceptable option. Expect more such displays next year, and expect that they will be differentiated by other critical characteristics such as black level, ease of calibration, and price.
> 
> --Bob



Okay, I'm trying to understand this, since it will probably delay my purchase of a 1080P display.


My current understanding is that the *refresh rate* involves the repeated illumination of identical frames per second, while the *frame rate* measures how often a display can change from one image to another. So a movie projector advances from one frame to the next 24 times each second. But each frame should be illuminated twice or three times before the next frame is projected to prevent flicker. So the better displays, in the future, should be able to accept 24 frames per second, but have an internal 48 or 72hz refresh rate.


A display capable of internally scanning a 24fps input to 48 or 72Hz will result in a smoother image. So when you say 24fps scanned to 60Hz is *"unacceptable"*, is it that because Judder will occur? Or is it more than that ... although that's enough, depending on the extent of and a person's sensitivity to Judder.


If so then is judder eliminated when the input is 24fps and the display scans to 48 or 72Hz or higher.


But, if you're also using the display to watch *TV*, wouldn't you still also need that display to be capable of a 60hz rate for live or video broadcasts.


So the better displays of the future (hopefully near future) will ideally need to do both? Thanks for the time.


I'm sure I'm not the only one trying to learn. Most importantly, I'm trying to learn what all this means in *real world viewing* of DVD film Vs Video Vs live televised sports events.


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Cool! But Oppo still considers this 970 software upgrade to be just a Beta test release, right? That is, they haven't finalized their testing on it, and it is not currently shipping in newly ordered 970's, right?
> 
> --Bob



Relax Bob, surprised to see you so touchy







. I am merely pointing out that firmware is available for download. I have upgraded and gapless playback works.


I have noticed that Oppo tends to keep their firmware in "beta" state for a while. I have updated 3 "beta" firmwares since I bought it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Relax Bob, surprised to see you so touchy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I am merely pointing out that firmware is available for download. I have upgraded and gapless playback works.
> 
> 
> I have noticed that Oppo tends to keep their firmware in "beta" state for a while. I have updated 3 "beta" firmwares since I bought it.



Not touchy. Sorry if it sounded that way. I just thought you might have newer information on the release status of this fix.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, I'm trying to understand this, since it will probably delay my purchase of a 1080P display.
> 
> 
> My current understanding is that the *refresh rate* involves the repeated illumination of identical frames per second, while the *frame rate* measures how often a display can change from one image to another. So a movie projector advances from one frame to the next 24 times each second. But each frame should be illuminated twice or three times before the next frame is projected to prevent flicker. So the better displays, in the future, should be able to accept 24 frames per second, but have an internal 48 or 72hz refresh rate.
> 
> 
> A display capable of internally scanning a 24fps input to 48 or 72Hz will result in a smoother image. So when you say 24fps scanned to 60Hz is *"unacceptable"*, is it that because Judder will occur? Or is it more than that ... although that's enough, depending on the extent of and a person's sensitivity to Judder.
> 
> 
> If so then is judder eliminated when the input is 24fps and the display scans to 48 or 72Hz or higher.
> 
> 
> But, if you're also using the display to watch *TV*, wouldn't you still also need that display to be capable of a 60hz rate for live or video broadcasts.
> 
> 
> So the better displays of the future (hopefully near future) will ideally need to do both? Thanks for the time.
> 
> 
> I'm sure I'm not the only one trying to learn. Most importantly, I'm trying to learn what all this means in *real world viewing* of DVD film Vs Video Vs live televised sports events.



Ideally you need a display that can produce a 60Hz refresh rate, or any higher multiple of 30Hz such as 90Hz, and ALSO a 48Hz refresh rate, or any higher multiple of 24Hz such as 72Hz.


The display also has to ACCEPT an input frame rate which is a multiple of 30Hz as well as one which is a multiple of 24Hz at its "native" resolution. And it should be able to switch its refresh rate automatically to match some multiple of the underlying input frame rate (i.e., 30 or 24).


However you don't want a refresh rate of only 30Hz or 24Hz (or less) because that will make "flicker" too noticeable -- i.e., the eye's ability to perceive that the light issuing from the screen is actually turning on and off that many times a second.


This is for the US and other "NTSC/60Hz" based countries. As it turns out the true frame rate in those countries is 29.97 frames per second for technical reasons having to do with broadcast TV standards but everyone commonly talks about it as 30Hz unless you are actually in the video production business.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------


For countries where wall current is 50Hz -- such as is commonly found in European, PAL/SECAM TV standard countries -- the display needs to be able to handle a multiple of 50Hz refresh rate, since to keep the cost of the electronics down TVs were original built to use the Hz rate of the wall current as a kind of a clock driving the circuits. TV broadcasts there happen at 25Hz.


In those countries DVD players ALSO put out 25Hz frame rate regardless of whether they are playing video or film based content. For video-based content this is an exact match. Films (normal films made on film stock) are shot at 24Hz -- I'm using "Hz" here loosely you understand, it is really frames per second -- but in these countries DVD playback happens at 25Hz ANYWAY. I.e., the film is played back slightly speeded up. The same film on a PAL DVD plays in 96% of the time it takes to play it on an NTSC DVD. For imaging the difference is slight enough that nobody notices. But for audio, the audio tracks have to be adjusted prior to recording on the DVD so that they still sound right when played back at the slightly higher speed.


-------------------------------------------------------------------


Now if you could build a TV to have a fixed 120Hz refresh rate you wouldn't HAVE TO change refresh rates depending on the incoming signal. 120 is a multiple of 30 and is also a multiple of 24. But a TV that can do that needs faster (i.e., more expensive) circuitry and display elements.


But guess what, TVs like that are likely to start coming out as soon as next year!


For PAL/SECAM style countries, the engineering is not so tough. A 50Hz refresh rate on the TV works OK, and a 75Hz refresh rate should be plenty.


--------------------------------------------------------------------


There are 3 *DIFFERENT* defects that are being addressed by all this.


First is the one we already talked about, "flicker". Depending upon overall room brightness, the eye's ability to smear together separate images is limited. The eye starts seeing, or almost seeing, the images as separate images. And this gets annoying. Some folks are sensitive to flicker even up to 60Hz, but for most folks the perception drops once you get over 30Hz. However 24Hz is too annoying for too many people.


Folks who are overly sensitive to flicker commonly suffer from "fluorescent light headaches" since fluorescent light tubes actually shift from full light output to almost no light output 60 times a second. Contrast with incandescent bulbs which stay at essentially the same brightness throughout each second. Folks who suffer fluorescent light headaches thus find that the addition of an incandescent table lamp at their work area often eliminates the problem.


High contrast sensitivity (leading to flicker awareness) is another reason why viewing rooms should not be completely blacked out. They should be dimly lit.


-------------------------------------------------------------------


Second is "judder". Judder happens when the incoming frame rate and the display's refresh rate are not related by a simple multiple. Displaying a 24 frames per second film on a 60Hz refresh rate display is just such a case. 24 doesn't go into 60 cleanly. So how does it work at all? Well the 24 fps film content is "raised" to a 30 fps video frame rate by splitting each frame into interlaced half frames, called fields, and then duplicating some, but not all of the fields in a periodic "cadence". The result is that some fields appear on screen for a longer time duration than other fields. And thus motion has a little bit of jerkiness to it.


You've all seen judder, but many have not recognized it because in the modern TV age you are so used to it that the brain filters it out. Judder happens every time you watch a film based movie on a normal TV. In fact the brain is so good at hiding judder that many people won't see any advantage on a judder-free setup (such as a display that accepts 24Hz and displays 72Hz) unless they have a traditional setup side by side for comparison.


However there are certain styles of scene and motion which enhance the eyes ability to see judder, and, just as with de-interlacing problems, once you get used to seeing judder you will see it more often. And thus a judder free setup is the gold standard for movie viewing.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


What most people are ACTUALLY seeing when they THINK they see judder is actually not judder at all but the third problem, which is that the film frame rate itself is just too slow to capture motion all that well. So for example, if the camera pans past a sharp vertical edge at too high speed the edge moves TOO FAR from one frame to the next for the brain to see it as smooth motion. Instead you see it is kind of jumping or strobing from one location to the next.


Film producers are well aware of this and use lots of tricks to keep it from being annoying. They don't pan the camera so quickly for example, or they adjust the depth of field so that distant objects are blurred a bit and thus the skipping motion is less noticeable.


There is nothing that even the best, judder-free display setup can do about this third problem. It is inherent in the film's being shot at only 24fps. To get rid of it you need to shoot the film at higher frame rates or you need to do tricks like I mentioned to keep it from becoming annoying.


This same sort of thing occurs in video as well, but is less of an issue because the video frame rate is higher. However video is also recorded "interlaced" and that leads to its own nasty problems because the two interlaced fields that make up a frame are not actually parts of the same picture. They are recorded by the video camera slightly separated in time and thus they are really a double exposure of a slightly motion blurred picture. This is one of the things that makes good de-interlacing so tough.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Putting it all together, the reason I said displaying an incoming 24fps movie at 24Hz refresh rate was unacceptable was because of flicker.


And the reason I said displaying an incoming 24fps movie at 60Hz refresh rate was unacceptable was because of judder. There are displays out there which try to fool buyers by saying they accept 1080p/24Hz, but without being clear that they still display it at 60Hz.


And again, all of this is for people looking to buy the best new display technology. For folks with current 60Hz displays, don't sweat it. As I said, the brain is so good at concealing judder that you are fine. Just keep all this in mind for your NEXT display.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, I'm trying to understand this, since it will probably delay my purchase of a 1080P display.
> 
> 
> My current understanding is that the *refresh rate* involves the repeated illumination of identical frames per second, while the *frame rate* measures how often a display can change from one image to another. So a movie projector advances from one frame to the next 24 times each second. But each frame should be illuminated twice or three times before the next frame is projected to prevent flicker. So the better displays, in the future, should be able to accept 24 frames per second, but have an internal 48 or 72hz refresh rate.
> 
> 
> A display capable of internally scanning a 24fps input to 48 or 72Hz will result in a smoother image. So when you say 24fps scanned to 60Hz is *"unacceptable"*, is it that because Judder will occur? Or is it more than that ... although that's enough, depending on the extent of and a person's sensitivity to Judder.
> 
> 
> If so then is judder eliminated when the input is 24fps and the display scans to 48 or 72Hz or higher.
> 
> 
> But, if you're also using the display to watch *TV*, wouldn't you still also need that display to be capable of a 60hz rate for live or video broadcasts.
> 
> 
> So the better displays of the future (hopefully near future) will ideally need to do both? Thanks for the time.
> 
> 
> I'm sure I'm not the only one trying to learn. Most importantly, I'm trying to learn what all this means in *real world viewing* of DVD film Vs Video Vs live televised sports events.



We are in the same place from an educational standpoint. To keep this discussion on point I believe the D2 pretty well has the flexibility to handle the majority of situations that would be central to this complex process....... and the source material from either Oppo SD 480i over HDMI to the D2 *OR* 1080P 24Hz over HDMI from the Tosh XA2 to the D2 and then processed to 1080P 48hz (over HDMI) (for everything?) going to the Ruby to be displayed at 1080P 48Hz would be possible and work????? (except for HTPC issues which would be entirely another discussion over DVI).......Right?


Exactly how much alcohol will fix this?


Peter


Bob, remember I told you I have a bottle of Warres 63 with your name on it? Well I have to tell you it is only about half full and evaporating faster with your last disertation.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Putting it all together, the reason I said displaying an incoming 24fps movie at 24Hz refresh rate was unacceptable was because of flicker.
> 
> --Bob



Bob Your ANSWERS are so detailed - you set a standard none of us can meet!


Flicker is only a concern for CRT displays.


Most SOLID STATE TVs or Projectors like the Ruby do not flicker.

The bits are either ON or OFF!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Peter,

You definitely sound like you need that Warre's right now. Help yourself!


You're closing in on it, but not quite there yet.


Sending everything out of the D2 at 48Hz is no better than sending everything out at 60Hz. The problem is that video based content is recorded at a 30fps rate and 30 doesn't go into 48 any better than 24 goes into 60.


And THAT is what the Anthem's "Frame Lock" stuff is all about.


Set the Anthem to output 24Hz. Turn on Frame Lock for any source that might be sending video based content (30Hz or 60Hz) instead. When the Anthem detects the differing frame rate it will alter it's output to match.


Meanwhile get a display which displays 24Hz input at a multiple of 24Hz, and 30 or 60Hz input at a multiple of that.


You'll only be able to stick to one frame rate in the display when the new, 120Hz displays come out.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


OK now here's the trick to all this. Sometimes you KNOW that the 60Hz content you are playing is ACTUALLY 24fps film-based stuff that has just been raised to 60Hz by the cadence duplication I mentioned so that it will play on normal TVs. For example, if you are playing a film-based DVD coming over at 480i/60Hz or if you are watching a film-based movie from your cable box coming over at 1080i/60Hz.


In such case turn Frame Lock OFF while watching that movie. The Anthem will then try to produce the 24Hz output you specified in Setup / Video Output. But it will find this trivial to do because it will detect and discard the duplicated fields in the incoming frames -- leaving the original 24fps frames behind for output.


The problem comes, however, if the DVD is playing a mix of 24fps scenes (from film) and 30fps scenes (from digital effects animation or digitial film editing setups). With Frame Lock off, the Anthem will output all of that at /24Hz. But that means that some fields need to be discarded from the embedded, 30fps video-based content.


You might need to open another bottle.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hang on there! How do you get 720p over Component from the Comcast/Motorola box without screwing up 1080i channels??
> 
> 
> As far as I knew, the Comcast/Motorola box only offers two resolutions at any one time -- one for HDTV channels that can be set at either 720p or 1080i BUT NOT BOTH, and one for SDTV that can be set to match the HDTV output, or to switch automatically to 480i or 480p. And as far as I knew that limitation was true for both HDMI and Component output!
> 
> 
> Speak! We have ways of making you talk!
> 
> --Bob



I'll talk, I'll talk. Like the Rosanna Dana I have to plead a never mind. I do get 720p from comcast, but forgot I was watching it on a S3 HD-Tivo. So the good news is you can get it. Bad news is not with the crappy ole Moto box, which I still keep for firewire (actually two crappy ole Moto boxs on two different HDTVs).


Now for the DVD count

- Pio 59AVi

- Tosh A1 HD-DVD

- Sammy Blu-Ray

- Symmetry for SACD & DVD-A

- A Zenith component scaler

- An Oppo still in the box


----------



## vcs_wharvey

Hi everyone,


I am going on 3 weeks waiting for my new AVM50 and still have no firm date for shipment. Is this what others have experienced? My dealer says that they are backordered and the distr is waiting for a shipment. Just looking for a sanity check here.


Starting to worry about my xmas morning surprise! : )


Wayne


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Peter,
> 
> You definitely sound like you need that Warre's right now. Help yourself!
> 
> 
> You're closing in on it, but not quite there yet.
> 
> 
> Sending everything out of the D2 at 48Hz is no better than sending everything out at 60Hz. The problem is that video based content is recorded at a 30fps rate and 30 doesn't go into 48 any better than 24 goes into 60.
> 
> 
> And THAT is what the Anthem's "Frame Lock" stuff is all about.
> 
> 
> Set the Anthem to output 24Hz. Turn on Frame Lock for any source that might be sending video based content (30Hz or 60Hz) instead. When the Anthem detects the differing frame rate it will alter it's output to match.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile get a display which displays 24Hz input at a multiple of 24Hz, and 30 or 60Hz input at a multiple of that.
> 
> 
> You'll only be able to stick to one frame rate in the display when the new, 120Hz displays come out.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> OK now here's the trick to all this. Sometimes you KNOW that the 60Hz content you are playing is ACTUALLY 24fps film-based stuff that has just been raised to 60Hz by the cadence duplication I mentioned so that it will play on normal TVs. For example, if you are playing a film-based DVD coming over at 480i/60Hz or if you are watching a film-based movie from your cable box coming over at 1080i/60Hz.
> 
> 
> In such case turn Frame Lock OFF while watching that movie. The Anthem will then try to produce the 24Hz output you specified in Setup / Video Output. But it will find this trivial to do because it will detect and discard the duplicated fields in the incoming frames -- leaving the original 24fps frames behind for output.
> 
> 
> The problem comes, however, if the DVD is playing a mix of 24fps scenes (from film) and 30fps scenes (from digital effects animation or digitial film editing setups). With Frame Lock off, the Anthem will output all of that at /24Hz. But that means that some fields need to be discarded from the embedded, 30fps video-based content.
> 
> 
> You might need to open another bottle.
> 
> --Bob



Bob how about putting this stuff in laymans terms









Here's what I'm working with

D2

Sony Pearl

Toshiba HD-DVD (HDMI to D2)

Blu-Ray via Vaio HTPC (DVI to HDMI directly to Pearl)

OPPO 970 (HDMI 480i to D2)

Now, what's the best way to set up the D2 video output to the Pearl? 24, 60hz or what







Thanks


dc


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> .....Now if you could build a TV to have a fixed 120Hz refresh rate you wouldn't HAVE TO change refresh rates depending on the incoming signal. 120 is a multiple of 30 and is also a multiple of 24. But a TV that can do that needs faster (i.e., more expensive) circuitry and display elements.
> 
> 
> But guess what, TVs like that are likely to start coming out as soon as next year!



This is great news.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> .....Putting it all together, the reason I said displaying an incoming 24fps movie at 24Hz refresh rate was unacceptable was because of flicker.
> 
> 
> And the reason I said displaying an incoming 24fps movie at 60Hz refresh rate was unacceptable was because of judder. There are displays out there which try to fool buyers by saying they accept 1080p/24Hz, but without being clear that they still display it at 60Hz.
> 
> 
> And again, all of this is for people looking to buy the best new display technology. For folks with current 60Hz displays, don't sweat it. As I said, the brain is so good at concealing judder that you are fine. Just keep all this in mind for your NEXT display.
> 
> --Bob



I edited your post since its available, above, for everyone to fully read.


It was one of the most detailed, informative and well written posts, I've every read on the AVS forum. Thanks for taking the time to compose it.


You should be a teacher. I'm actually understanding the subject. Amazing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dc,

The problem is I don't know what the Pearl accepts as input.


Let's assume it can take either 1920x1080p/24Hz or 1920x1080p/60Hz and "do the right thing" with either of them. That is the /24Hz gets displayed at a refresh rate which is a multiple of 24Hz (most likely 24, 48 or 72Hz) and the /60Hz gets displayed at a refresh rate which is a multiple of 30Hz (most likely 60Hz).


OK, assuming that, now set the Anthem Setup / Video Output to produce HDMI 1920x1080p/24Hz. This will be your "default" output mode to the Pearl.


-------------------------------------------------


Now let's take the Oppo. What you want is either two input settings (one with Frame Lock = ON and one with it OFF), or one input setting set to Frame Lock = OFF by default which you can then manually change using the new remote shortcut found under the Mode key.


Use the Frame Lock = OFF setting for watching film-based movie DVDs. These will likely be the vast majority of DVDs you watch, which is why this should be our default. Even though the Oppo is sending 480i/60Hz to the Anthem, the Anthem will still send 1080p/24Hz out to the Pearl.


What's on the disc for film-based movies is 24fps content. The Oppo automatically duplicates fields (in the necessary cadence) as it converts the 24fps stuff coming off the disc into 30fps (actually 480i/60Hz) to send towards the TV. This is part of the DVD standard -- done this way so that you don't have to stash this additional, and totally redundant, information on the DVD for its most common use as a storage media for films. The Anthem, in the process of converting this /60Hz to /24Hz will simply detect and discard these extra fields so you are just left with the original movie frames as originally recorded on the disc.


Use the Frame Lock = ON setting for watching video-based DVDs. Video-based DVDs will be any DVD of a TV show, or some computer animated movies that have been transferred "direct to DVD" -- i.e., they made a special run of the computer to put out 30fps stuff on the DVD instead of transferring the 24fps stuff that was printed on film and sent out to theaters for their projectors.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------


As for the HD-DVD and Blue Ray players, I'm not sure what their best output resolution is. If you have 1080p/24Hz coming off the disc then the two good choices are 1080p/24Hz or 1080i/60Hz. Note that 1080p/60Hz is *NOT* a good choice here. Turning 1080p/24Hz into 1080i/60Hz can be done with complete accuracy and little chance of error -- re-interlace each frame into its two constituent fields and then duplicate some of those fields in the necessary cadence -- a piece of cake. Turning it into 1080p/60Hz however involves an extra de-interlacing step that the player likely does not do nearly as well as the Anthem does it.


So if you havae 1080p/24Hz coming off the disc, then set the player to output 1080p/24Hz (if the player is known to do this properly) or set it to output 1080i/60Hz. In either case you want Frame Lock = OFF on the Anthem and again you want the Anthem to output 1080p/24Hz to the Pearl.


This is the way it is supposed to work with the Toshiba A1. 1080i/60Hz from the player converted to 1080p/24Hz by the Anthem. However SFIELD reports he is having some sort of problem with that.


If on the other hand you have 1080p/60Hz coming off the disc, then you want the player to send 1080p/60Hz to the Anthem and you want the Anthem to be set to Frame Lock = ON. I do not know if any of the commercial discs are recorded this way.


Note that the DVI output from your VAIO may not be capable of 1080p/60Hz.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------


You didn't mention a TV source but let's assume you have a Tivo S3 which is capable of passing 480i, 720p, or 1080i automatically according to what's coming in on the channel being watched.


In that case you want to set Frame Lock = ON by default. The Anthem will see the /60Hz stuff coming in and will generate 1080p/60Hz automatically for the Pearl.


But if you know you are watching a TV broadcast of a film-based movie, turn Frame Lock = OFF. The Anthem will then convert the incoming /60Hz to the default output of 1080p/24Hz by stripping out the extra, repeated fields that were duplicated when the movie was raised to video frame rates for broadcast (known as the "telecine" process).


------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Question: Why do you set the Anthem output to /24Hz and use Frame Lock only as necessary to raise that to /60Hz? Why not set the Anthem to output /60Hz and use Frame Lock to LOWER it to /24Hz?


Answer: Some incoming /60Hz content is actually /24Hz content in disguise. This is what happens when you play a standard DVD of a film-based movie for example.


Frame Lock responds to the physical signal. The physical signal for these disguised films is /60Hz. Thus you can't use Frame Lock to lower the frame rate for those.


But if you set the default output rate to /24Hz and turn Frame Lock OFF for those disguised films the Anthem will be forced to generate /24Hz output from that /60Hz input. But miracle of miracles the Anthem is very good at detecting the repeating field cadence in that content which is all the clue it needs that this is REALLY a film disguised as video. So it merely discards the redundant duplicated fields and what's left is the original film!

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

This evening while watching a movie, I noticed that the front panel display looked different. Upon closer inspection, I noticed the "N" in "MAIN" and the "i" in "480i" was missing. Looking at the display closely, everything was shifted to the right of the screen such that the "I" in MAIN and the "0" in 480 was taking up the last display digit on the right hand side. I turned the AVM off and back on and everything was back to normal showing all the proper information. Has anyone else ever noticed this?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This evening while watching a movie, I noticed that the front panel display looked different. Upon closer inspection, I noticed the "N" in "MAIN" and the "i" in "480i" was missing. Looking at the display closely, everything was shifted to the right of the screen such that the "I" in MAIN and the "0" in 480 was taking up the last display digit on the right hand side. I turned the AVM off and back on and everything was back to normal showing all the proper information. Has anyone else ever noticed this?



I've had some irregularities with 1.10 with the OSD garbling words and displaying things like 1078p input from my PS3... a restart fixes the issues... but a bug that I havent seen in a long time...


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> I am going on 3 weeks waiting for my new AVM50 and still have no firm date for shipment. Is this what others have experienced? My dealer says that they are backordered and the distr is waiting for a shipment. Just looking for a sanity check here.
> 
> 
> Starting to worry about my xmas morning surprise! : )
> 
> 
> Wayne



Yep this seems to be the norm this month, my order went in officially on the eigth I believe and I was told this week to expect it somewhere around mid-late January. Someone mentioned something about Anthem shutting down for the two weeks around X-Mas, no official word on that though. Will keep my fingers crossed for ya though. You could always wrap up a printed manual.


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> dc,
> 
> The problem is I don't know what the Pearl accepts as input.
> 
> 
> Let's assume it can take either 1920x1080p/24Hz or 1920x1080p/60Hz and "do the right thing" with either of them. That is the /24Hz gets displayed at a refresh rate which is a multiple of 24Hz (most likely 24, 48 or 72Hz) and the /60Hz gets displayed at a refresh rate which is a multiple of 30Hz (most likely 60Hz).
> 
> 
> OK, assuming that, now set the Anthem Setup / Video Output to produce HDMI 1920x1080p/24Hz. This will be your "default" output mode to the Pearl.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now let's take the Oppo. What you want is either two input settings (one with Frame Lock = ON and one with it OFF), or one input setting set to Frame Lock = OFF by default which you can then manually change using the new remote shortcut found under the Mode key.
> 
> 
> Use the Frame Lock = OFF setting for watching film-based movie DVDs. These will likely be the vast majority of DVDs you watch, which is why this should be our default. Even though the Oppo is sending 480i/60Hz to the Anthem, the Anthem will still send 1080p/24Hz out to the Pearl.
> 
> 
> What's on the disc for film-based movies is 24fps content. The Oppo automatically duplicates fields (in the necessary cadence) as it converts the 24fps stuff coming off the disc into 30fps (actually 480i/60Hz) to send towards the TV. This is part of the DVD standard -- done this way so that you don't have to stash this additional, and totally redundant, information on the DVD for its most common use as a storage media for films. The Anthem, in the process of converting this /60Hz to /24Hz will simply detect and discard these extra fields so you are just left with the original movie frames as originally recorded on the disc.
> 
> 
> Use the Frame Lock = ON setting for watching video-based DVDs. Video-based DVDs will be any DVD of a TV show, or some computer animated movies that have been transferred "direct to DVD" -- i.e., they made a special run of the computer to put out 30fps stuff on the DVD instead of transferring the 24fps stuff that was printed on film and sent out to theaters for their projectors.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> As for the HD-DVD and Blue Ray players, I'm not sure what their best output resolution is. If you have 1080p/24Hz coming off the disc then the two good choices are 1080p/24Hz or 1080i/60Hz. Note that 1080p/60Hz is *NOT* a good choice here. Turning 1080p/24Hz into 1080i/60Hz can be done with complete accuracy and little chance of error -- re-interlace each frame into its two constituent fields and then duplicate some of those fields in the necessary cadence -- a piece of cake. Turning it into 1080p/60Hz however involves an extra de-interlacing step that the player likely does not do nearly as well as the Anthem does it.
> 
> 
> So if you havae 1080p/24Hz coming off the disc, then set the player to output 1080p/24Hz (if the player is known to do this properly) or set it to output 1080i/60Hz. In either case you want Frame Lock = OFF on the Anthem and again you want the Anthem to output 1080p/24Hz to the Pearl.
> 
> 
> This is the way it is supposed to work with the Toshiba A1. 1080i/60Hz from the player converted to 1080p/24Hz by the Anthem. However SFIELD reports he is having some sort of problem with that.
> 
> 
> If on the other hand you have 1080p/60Hz coming off the disc, then you want the player to send 1080p/60Hz to the Anthem and you want the Anthem to be set to Frame Lock = ON. I do not know if any of the commercial discs are recorded this way.
> 
> 
> Note that the DVI output from your VAIO may not be capable of 1080p/60Hz.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> You didn't mention a TV source but let's assume you have a Tivo S3 which is capable of passing 480i, 720p, or 1080i automatically according to what's coming in on the channel being watched.
> 
> 
> In that case you want to set Frame Lock = ON by default. The Anthem will see the /60Hz stuff coming in and will generate 1080p/60Hz automatically for the Pearl.
> 
> 
> But if you know you are watching a TV broadcast of a film-based movie, turn Frame Lock = OFF. The Anthem will then convert the incoming /60Hz to the default output of 1080p/24Hz by stripping out the extra, repeated fields that were duplicated when the movie was raised to video frame rates for broadcast (known as the "telecine" process).
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Question: Why do you set the Anthem output to /24Hz and use Frame Lock only as necessary to raise that to /60Hz? Why not set the Anthem to output /60Hz and use Frame Lock to LOWER it to /24Hz?
> 
> 
> Answer: Some incoming /60Hz content is actually /24Hz content in disguise. This is what happens when you play a standard DVD of a film-based movie for example.
> 
> 
> Frame Lock responds to the physical signal. The physical signal for these disguised films is /60Hz. Thus you can't use Frame Lock to lower the frame rate for those.
> 
> 
> But if you set the default output rate to /24Hz and turn Frame Lock OFF for those disguised films the Anthem will be forced to generate /24Hz output from that /60Hz input. But miracle of miracles the Anthem is very good at detecting the repeating field cadence in that content which is all the clue it needs that this is REALLY a film disguised as video. So it merely discards the redundant duplicated fields and what's left is the original film!
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


You continue to amaze me with your detailed replies. Ofcourse my eyes glaze over, but I am hopeful that over time I will grasp some of the concepts you are patiently explaining.


Appreciate it. I hope Anthem pays you to write a supplemental manual


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep this seems to be the norm this month, my order went in officially on the eigth I believe and I was told this week to expect it somewhere around mid-late January. Someone mentioned something about Anthem shutting down for the two weeks around X-Mas, no official word on that though. Will keep my fingers crossed for ya though. You could always wrap up a printed manual.



I broke down and ordered a second AVM-50 for the basement. Did not want to play russian roulette with other receivers and their HDMI implementations. I have been very happy with Anthem's commitment to making other products work with theirs.


Anyway, my order went on the 27th of Nov and am still waiting. Its worth it IMO.


----------



## Bruceko

I ordered a D2 0n the 27th and got it last Tuesday. It is replacing a AVM20 version 2.

I am almost done setting it up.


----------



## KCWolfPck

I was wondering what sources/programs you all use and what steps you all take to calibrate the video.


I will be receiving the AVM50 soon and will be using it to scale/process video to feed to my Samsung HL-S6187S (1080p). My thoughts were that I would disable all "ehanced processing" on the TV (i.e. DNie, noice reduction, etc.) and also zero out all video adjustment settings (i.e. set contrast, brightness, etc....to 50). I then thought that I then claibrate each video input within the AVM50 itself.


Is what I've understood so far correct?


Next....I was wondering what kind of colibration tools lie within the AVM50 itself. I know it has built in calibration screen...but am unsure which one there are and what they will help calibrate.


FInally, I thought I would fine tune the video setting using the Live video setting editor. How are most users utilizing this feature? Do some of you have one of the Spyder colorimeters or something? How do you all calibrate your gamma settings etc??


I'm just trying to get an ideo of the tools that are available within the AVM50 itself and what tools I should buy to assist in calibration. I already own a RS SPL meter and a couple calibration DVDs.


Thanks in advance for helping me understand!


Scott



Edit: Here are my sources and how I understand I should set up each:
Sony BDP-S1 Blu-ray player via HDMI. I will set to output video at "Direct", this will output Blu-rays at 1080p24 and standard DVDs at 480i. Audio should be set to output via HDMI "Auto". All speaker settings set to large to allow the AVM50 to handle bass management.

DirecTV HR-20 HD DVR via HDMI. I'll set to output native format.

XBOX 360 via component. This one I'n not sure about. I wold imagine that I should continue to output 1080p, but I also have the HD-DVD add on that outputs 1080i over component. I would imagine I would leave this the same as well.

Denon DVD-2910 via HDMI and 5.1 anolog. This wll be used for SACD/DVD-A playback so video not so important.

Cambridge Audio Azur 640H DIgital Music Server - S-video. Do any of you have any opinions on which DAC I should use....internal of the 640H or the AVM50's? THis wll help me decide which audio connection to use optical or analog. The Azur 640H uses a Wolfson WM8740 24/192kHz DAC.


Any input or corrections to my assumptions of correct connectivity would also be appreciated. THank you!!


Scott


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep this seems to be the norm this month, my order went in officially on the eigth I believe and I was told this week to expect it somewhere around mid-late January. Someone mentioned something about Anthem shutting down for the two weeks around X-Mas, no official word on that though. Will keep my fingers crossed for ya though. You could always wrap up a printed manual.




Holy Cow!!! I guess I'd better wrap up that manual now then. I did not get that indication at all from my dealer. He told me that his distributer told him the units were on backorder and they were expecting a shipment. Of course the shipment never arrived and is still outstanding.


Oh well - I guess I'll get it when I get it. Can't wait though - especially as I read all of this interesting information here. Maybe I should focus on my beer brewing hobby for a while to get mind mind off of the HT. : )


----------



## drmabuse

Hi,

Hopefully this has not been asked before - I did a search and there does not seem to be an answer...

I will be receiving shortly the Panasonic Blu-Ray player and the Toshiba HD-AX2 (1080p) and I am a bit confused on the DD - True HD and DTS -HD formats.

Will these come across on the HDMI to the D2 and be processed accordingly?

Do I have to utilize the analogue outputs?

Can the D2 deliver these codecs?

/\\/\\


----------



## KCWolfPck

drmabuse,


All you need is HDMI. The players will decode the audio (when capability has been added to the panasonic). It will then send the audio as PCM over HDMI. The D2 won't have to do anything except apply bass management and additional processing if you want it too (7.1, etc...).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drmabuse,

If the player can decode the format at all, then you can indeed get the full quality, multi-channel, digital audio over the HDMI connection to the D2. It comes as high res, multi-channel "PCM" which is simply the output of the decoder in the player.


Passing this stuff to the D2 as HDMI PCM is the ideal way of doing it.


I don't know off hand which decoders ship with the new Toshiba.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse

Thanks Gents!

My understanding is that the Toshiba will output both formats, this is the HD-XA2 model . What is causing my greatest concern at this point is SACD - I have a Denon 3910 which will have to remain in my system for playing SACD as neither the Panasonic nor the Toshiba will offer this format. The Panasonic will offer DVD-A.

Wow - I consider myself a bit of a "geek" and if I am confused by all this new stuff I can't imagine what "joe consumer" is thinking...

/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Scott,

There is a whole forum here dedicated to display calibration which is probably your best source for info if you want to get into this deeply yourself instead of paying a professional to do it for you. I find this stuff fun, and the basic stuff is not that tough once you get a handle on what's going on. But it is easy to get frustrated while learning this stuff.


------------------------------------------------------


You don't *NEED* Live Video Settings editor unless you:


1) Need to set up custom video resolutions or timings to best match your display, OR


2) Want to fiddle with the new Gamma Correction stuff in the Anthem.


Live Video Settings editor can be helpful when setting things up, but you can do everything else just using the Anthem's own built-in user interface.


My recommendation to you would be that you NOT touch the Gamma stuff until you feel you have a good understanding of all the other video calibration things first. The eye is EXTREMELY sensitive to bad Gamma and you can easily screw up the image a lot by making changes there when the more common level setting adjustments are really what you should have been using. For now, presume that the factory default settings for "movies" or for "alter the content as little as possible" produce correct Gamma from your source devices, the Anthem, and your display.


[For newbies: Gamma can probably best be thought of as adjusting the linearity of the gray scale response on the display as the source content varies from Black to White. Another way of thinking of it is that Brightnesss controls "black" levels, Contrast controls "white" levels, and Gamma curves adjust the mid-range of the grays. The new Anthem software allows for fully customized, gray scale Gamma response curves, or for separate curves for each of the primary colors that combine to make "gray". Good Gamma correction produces a very natural image with a sense of transparency and depth -- the "looking through a window" effect. Bad Gamma correction produces a "flat" image that looks "processed".]


------------------------------------------------------------------


Get a calibration DVD or two. Digital Video Essentials (DVE) and Avia are the two most common. The more expensive Avia Pro disc set makes a nice treat.


Without needing a light sensor, use the "SMPTE" color bar chart generated by the Anthem (in the latest firmware) to calilbrate your display's basic level settings to best match what the Anthem produces. Use the colored gelatin filters from your calibration DVD to adjust Color and Tint. Brightness and Contrast can be adjusted directly as described in the Anthem manual.


You need to turn off any factory default "torch mode" settings in your display. Typically you will do this by selecting a picture mode with a name like "movies" and then turning off any image "enhancements" such as flesh tone correction, SVM, noise reduction or the like. If your display has a Color Temperature setting, you will likely need to adjust it to a redder bias for whites than the factory default. This may be confusingly labeled "warmer" (for the reddish tone) even though it actually corresponds to a lower (e.g., cooler) Color Temperature. If you are offered a setting for 6500K or SMPTE Standard, that's the one you want.


You may discover that you want to save two different settings for your display. One for "critical viewing" in a dimmed room, and one for "casual viewing" in a more brightly lit room. But or heaven's sake avoid the torch mode settings that are often the factory defaults (to make the TV more eye catching in garish store lighting). Any picture mode with a name like "Vivid", "Dynamic", "Vibrant", "Games", or the like should be avoided, and even thhe "Movies" setting will likely need to have Contrast and Sharpness lowered significantly from factory defaults.


Having determined the best settings for your display, according to the Anthem's test chart, leave the display settings alone from then on and do all other adjustments using the Anthem's input settings (under the "7" key on the remote).


Start by using your calibration DVD(s) with your standard DVD player according to their instructions. Get a feel for how a calibrated image should look. Initially it may appear darker and softer (and possibly with more of a warm, reddish cast to it) than you are used to. Trust the calibration DVDs.


If your DVD player has its own picture modes, try to find the one that does the LEAST to the content coming off the disc.


For HDTV, look for test chart programs that are played periodically on HDNET or INHD. If you have a DVR you should record these. INHD's version is called "Tune Up." Also look for the "Bars and Tones" program which can sometimes also be found on SDTV channels as well as HDTV. Use these to refine the Anthem's input settings for your TV set top box. In all likelihood the only change you will need to make from the best settings you found for your DVD player (presuming your set top box and DVD player are both connected via HDMI) will be modest adjustments of Color and Tint -- again in the Anthem's input settings -- leave the TV's own settings alone.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


If you have a light sensor, you can use the other test bar charts generated by the Anthem to better set up your TV. For that, and for Gamma stuff, I will refer you to the Display Calibration forum here.

--Bob


----------



## rlockshin

What is the latest software version for the D2?

I am havng mine professionally installed on Wednesday and want it to have the latest software in it.

How often do they release new software?

Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

rlockshin,

The latest software version for the D2 downloadable from the Anthem web site is V1.11. However that differs from V1.10 only in the way the installer application works. So if your D2 arrives with V1.10 on it you are good to go.


There is supposedly a V1.12 in the works which improves installer robustness even further, and may even have a bug fix or two, but right now I wouldn't expect that to come out until after the holidays.


V1.10 was a significant feature upgrade over the prior V1.06. They were separated by about 4 months as I recall.

--Bob


----------



## rlockshin

Thanks for the information

I am looking forward to the D2


----------



## bkwong73

Hi All,


I am considering getting the Anthem D2, and upgrading from my current EAD Theatermaster Signature.


But I was wondering if anybody here is using the D2 with the Xbox 360 and the HD DVD Drive?


If you are, how is the audio especially with the DD+ that is outputed through HDDVD's?


Currently my EAD Theatermaster Signature is not accepting the audio signal correctly with the Optical Digital output.


Thanks in advance any input.


bkwong73


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bkwong73* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I am considering getting the Anthem D2, and upgrading from my current EAD Theatermaster Signature.
> 
> 
> But I was wondering if anybody here is using the D2 with the Xbox 360 and the HD DVD Drive?
> 
> 
> If you are, how is the audio especially with the DD+ that is outputed through HDDVD's?
> 
> 
> Currently my EAD Theatermaster Signature is not accepting the audio signal correctly with the Optical Digital output.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance any input.
> 
> 
> bkwong73



I can tell you first hand that you would be well served to buy a standalone player for the HDMI output for both audio and video... The PCM and picture from the Toshiba A2 is stunning...


That being said, I have both the X360 add on and the Toshiba A2.. they both work great with the D2...


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can tell you first hand that you would be well served to buy a standalone player for the HDMI output for both audio and video... The PCM and picture from the Toshiba A2 is stunning...
> 
> 
> That being said, I have both the X360 add on and the Toshiba A2.. they both work great with the D2...




I couldn't agree more.....If you are going to the touble of getting the best integrated AV pre-processer on the market then it only makes sense to get the Tosh A2 as your main source for HD DVD.


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I couldn't agree more.....If you are going to the touble of getting the best integrated AV pre-processer on the market then it only makes sense to get the Tosh A2 as your main source for HD DVD.
> 
> 
> Peter



WHY not X2 - On another Thread - they just announced the X2

will have 1080p24 as a software upgrade - sometime after CES.


The A2 does not do 1080p anything.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> WHY not X2 - On another Thread - they just announced the X2
> 
> will have 1080p24 as a software upgrade - sometime after CES.
> 
> 
> The A2 does not do 1080p anything.



Given how well the D2 does de-interlacing of 1080i/60Hz it should be equally good to use that output from the A2 -- all assuming that SFIELD'S reported problems with the A1 turn out to have a simple solution.


The A2 should be able to turn 1080p/24Hz off the disc into 1080i/60Hz output with complete fidelity. This is an easy conversion -- described in my earlier post above. The D2, with Frame Lock = OFF and output set to 1080p/24Hz, should then be able turn that back into 1080p/24Hz output for a suitable display. Again, if there are no problems in the data coming off the disc this dual conversion should result in identical data going to the display.


Now in the past, disc makers have been very inventive in coming up with ways to screw up the data on the disc -- things that have given players fits. But off hand I can't think of anything they could do here that would make this dual conversion work worse than with 1080p/24Hz output from the XA2 going through the D2 directly. Even if they had a mix of 1080p/24Hz and 1080p/60Hz coming off the disc it would be no better with the XA2 unless the XA2 can also do 1080p/60Hz output on the fly.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Given how well the D2 does de-interlacing of 1080i/60Hz it should be equally good to use that output from the A2 -- all assuming that SFIELD'S reported problems with the A1 turn out to have a simple solution.
> 
> 
> The A2 should be able to turn 1080p/24Hz off the disc into 1080i/60Hz output with complete fidelity. This is an easy conversion -- described in my earlier post above. The D2, with Frame Lock = OFF and output set to 1080p/24Hz, should then be able turn that back into 1080p/24Hz output for a suitable display. Again, if there are no problems in the data coming off the disc this dual conversion should result in identical data going to the display.
> 
> 
> Now in the past, disc makers have been very inventive in coming up with ways to screw up the data on the disc -- things that have given players fits. But off hand I can't think of anything they could do here that would make this dual conversion work worse than with 1080p/24Hz output from the XA2 going through the D2 directly. Even if they had a mix of 1080p/24Hz and 1080p/60Hz coming off the disc it would be no better with the XA2 unless the XA2 can also do 1080p/60Hz output on the fly.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I have been patiently waiting for the Xa2 (I have the Xa1) under the belief that the xa2 should send the 1080p 24/48 native source to the D2 who would only touch it if it was deemed beneficial with operator intervention and then off to the ruby (taking into account your earlier excellent dissertation on the subject) to be left alone at 1080p....... no conversion hence the best possible result? Forgive me if my brain fell off the rails again but am I wrong? Its ok Bob, my ego can stand some ridicule at this point!


Peter


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> WHY not X2 - On another Thread - they just announced the X2
> 
> will have 1080p24 as a software upgrade - sometime after CES.
> 
> 
> The A2 does not do 1080p anything.



As I think I am about to find out, Bob will clarify the best logical option. In answer to your point in advance of Bob's response to my latest question, yes I would argue that the XA2 is the best option including the much debated value prop for the HDMI ver 3.0. I realize that it will be some time before the material and display technology will sync to offer the colour palette but there may be some earlier benefits with the audio side of the equation..... (I know this is going to get me into trouble with both Bob and Alain)


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI ver 3.0.




I assume you mean Version 1.3.


HDMI has not advanced out of version 1.x YET [GRIN]!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Peter,

This stuff can really be confusing. The thing you need to understand is that turning 1080p/24Hz into 1080i/60Hz can be done easily and without loss of information or any other problem. Each frame of the 1080p/24Hz image is split into 2 interlaced half frames (fields) to produce 1080i/48Hz, and then some of the fields are duplicated in a regular cadence to raise the rate up to 1080i/60Hz. This is trivial to do.


Then if proper de-interlacing is done (as should be the case in the D2) this 1080i/60Hz stream can be restored to its original 1080p/24Hz glory. The D2 has to recognize the cadence of the incoming duplicated fields (which it does), strip out the duplicates, and then de-interlace the remaining fields back into the original 1080p/24Hz frames. The D2's motion adaptive de-interlacing can distinguish between 1080i/60Hz coming from a film based source (where both fields in the frame are recorded at the same time) from that coming from a video based source such as HDTV (where the second field is recorded slightly later in time than the first field). And that's the key. That's why this should work just fine in the D2. The cadence of duplicated fields tells the D2 that what's coming in came from a film-based source.


By the way, the D2 will also do the right thing if it is asked to output 1080p/60Hz in such a scenario. You'll still have the "judder" from the duplicated fields, but the de-interlacing should be "perfect".


The only fly in the ointment here is that this should ALSO now be working from the Toshiba A1, and SFIELD is reporting he's having problems with it!


That's why I've been trying to get someone else here with an A1/D2/Pearl combo to speak up on this.


=================================


EDITED TO ADD: It is possible for edits in the film or chapter changes to break the regular pattern of the "cadence" the D2 uses to do this stuff. This happens with standard DVDs as well. But the D2 is very VERY fast at re-establishing that it still has the cadence coming in, and so it picks up again so quickly that there should be no visual glitches that you can actually see.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The only fly in the ointment here is that this should ALSO now be working from the Toshiba A1, and SFIELD is reporting he's having problems with it!



Bob:


Theory and Engineering Specifications are truly wonderful.


But as a EE for 40 Years - I have seen LOTS of FLIES in the

ointment along the way - IN ALL TECHNOLOGIES.


The More BLEEDING Edge it is - the More Flies.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Peter,
> 
> This stuff can really be confusing. The thing you need to understand is that turning 1080p/24Hz into 1080i/60Hz can be done easily and without loss of information or any other problem. Each frame of the 1080p/24Hz image is split into 2 interlaced half frames (fields) to produce 1080i/48Hz, and then some of the fields are duplicated in a regular cadence to raise the rate up to 1080i/60Hz. This is trivial to do.
> 
> 
> Then if proper de-interlacing is done (as should be the case in the D2) this 1080i/60Hz stream can be restored to its original 1080p/24Hz glory. The D2 has to recognize the cadence of the incoming duplicated fields (which it does), strip out the duplicates, and then de-interlace the remaining fields back into the original 1080p/24Hz frames. The D2's motion adaptive de-interlacing can distinguish between 1080i/60Hz coming from a film based source (where both fields in the frame are recorded at the same time) from that coming from a video based source such as HDTV (where the second field is recorded slightly later in time than the first field). And that's the key. That's why this should work just fine in the D2. The cadence of duplicated fields tells the D2 that what's coming in came from a film-based source.
> 
> 
> By the way, the D2 will also do the right thing if it is asked to output 1080p/60Hz in such a scenario. You'll still have the "judder" from the duplicated fields, but the de-interlacing should be "perfect".
> 
> 
> The only fly in the ointment here is that this should ALSO now be working from the Toshiba A1, and SFIELD is reporting he's having problems with it!
> 
> 
> That's why I've been trying to get someone else here with an A1/D2/Pearl combo to speak up on this.
> 
> 
> =================================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: It is possible for edits in the film or chapter changes to break the regular pattern of the "cadence" the D2 uses to do this stuff. This happens with standard DVDs as well. But the D2 is very VERY fast at re-establishing that it still has the cadence coming in, and so it picks up again so quickly that there should be no visual glitches that you can actually see.
> 
> --Bob





as usual I'm going to have to read this a few times and digest it......thanks Bob.


Peter


----------



## edhab

Am getting highly confused with all the HD tv's available, but am currently thinking of the JVC rear projection HD 70FH97 to complement the d2 - Is this a good choice - or might there be other HDTV's worth considering? thanks so much - ed h


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Peter,
> 
> This stuff can really be confusing. The thing you need to understand is that turning 1080p/24Hz into 1080i/60Hz can be done easily and without loss of information or any other problem. Each frame of the 1080p/24Hz image is split into 2 interlaced half frames (fields) to produce 1080i/48Hz, and then some of the fields are duplicated in a regular cadence to raise the rate up to 1080i/60Hz. This is trivial to do.
> 
> 
> Then if proper de-interlacing is done (as should be the case in the D2) this 1080i/60Hz stream can be restored to its original 1080p/24Hz glory. The D2 has to recognize the cadence of the incoming duplicated fields (which it does), strip out the duplicates, and then de-interlace the remaining fields back into the original 1080p/24Hz frames. The D2's motion adaptive de-interlacing can distinguish between 1080i/60Hz coming from a film based source (where both fields in the frame are recorded at the same time) from that coming from a video based source such as HDTV (where the second field is recorded slightly later in time than the first field). And that's the key. That's why this should work just fine in the D2. The cadence of duplicated fields tells the D2 that what's coming in came from a film-based source.
> 
> 
> By the way, the D2 will also do the right thing if it is asked to output 1080p/60Hz in such a scenario. You'll still have the "judder" from the duplicated fields, but the de-interlacing should be "perfect".
> 
> 
> The only fly in the ointment here is that this should ALSO now be working from the Toshiba A1, and SFIELD is reporting he's having problems with it!
> 
> 
> That's why I've been trying to get someone else here with an A1/D2/Pearl combo to speak up on this.
> 
> 
> =================================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: It is possible for edits in the film or chapter changes to break the regular pattern of the "cadence" the D2 uses to do this stuff. This happens with standard DVDs as well. But the D2 is very VERY fast at re-establishing that it still has the cadence coming in, and so it picks up again so quickly that there should be no visual glitches that you can actually see.
> 
> --Bob



I have the XA1/D2/Pearl combo and I'd be glad to test something out

if I knew what it was you wanted me to check out









I'm new to all this VP stuff so please forgive my confusion.


dc


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the XA1/D2/Pearl combo and I'd be glad to test something out
> 
> if I knew what it was you wanted me to check out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm new to all this VP stuff so please forgive my confusion.
> 
> 
> dc



Bob is saying you should be able to get the 1080i out of

the X1 to deinterlace to 1080p24 out of the D2.


TURN IT ON AND TRY IT.


Just set the D2 to output 1080p24 instead of 1080p60 which

is what you probably have now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dc,

Set the XA1 to output 1080i/60Hz via HDMI to the D2.


Set the D2 to output 1080p/24Hz via HDMI to the Pearl. Turn Frame Lock = OFF.


[It is my understanding that the Pearl accepts 1080p/24Hz and displays it at refresh rate which is a multiple of 24hz. So this combo of settings should result in nice, smooth film playback.]


Play HD-DVD movies -- normal movies shot on film stock.


Look for jerkiness in pans (horizontal or vertical) and in what should be smooth motion of objects across the screen.


SFIELD may have specific movies and time locations in those movies that he'd like you to check out. [SFIELD? Are you still here?] In his previous post he indicated that he was getting good smooth motion that would then fall apart after a minute or so.


I'm not sure if it stayed broken after that or cycled between working right and working wong as the film progressed.

--Bob


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> dc,
> 
> Set the XA1 to output 1080i/60Hz via HDMI to the D2.
> 
> 
> Set the D2 to output 1080p/24Hz via HDMI to the Pearl. Turn Frame Lock = OFF.
> 
> 
> [It is my understanding that the Pearl accepts 1080p/24Hz and displays it at refresh rate which is a multiple of 24hz. So this combo of settings should result in nice, smooth film playback.]
> 
> 
> Play HD-DVD movies -- normal movies shot on film stock.
> 
> 
> Look for jerkiness in pans (horizontal or vertical) and in what should be smooth motion of objects across the screen.
> 
> 
> SFIELD may have specific movies and time locations in those movies that he'd like you to check out. [SFIELD? Are you still here?] In his previous post he indicated that he was getting good smooth motion that would then fall apart after a minute or so.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if it stayed broken after that or cycled between working right and working wong as the film progressed.
> 
> --Bob



OK,

There IS jerkiness in pans.... big time!

Unwatchable is how I'd catergoizes it.

Items and people moving across the screen (sometimes they don't even have to be moving across the screen, just standing there moving their hands, or shaking their head) appear jerky, sort of like they are studdering across the screen.

This is with the King Kong HD-DVD, didn't bother checking any other titles.

Is this what you're looking for?

Should I try putting Frame Lock = Auto?


dc


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK,
> 
> There IS jerkiness in pans.... big time!
> 
> Unwatchable is how I'd catergoizes it.
> 
> Items and people moving across the screen (sometimes they don't even have to be moving across the screen, just standing there moving their hands) appear jerky, sort of like they are studdering across the screen.
> 
> This is with the King Kong HD-DVD, didn't bother checking any other titles.
> 
> Is this what you're looking for?
> 
> Should I try putting Frame Lock = Auto?
> 
> 
> dc



Never mind about the Frame Lock = Auto,

tried it, that just sets the D2 is output 1080/60p.


dc


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK,
> 
> There IS jerkiness in pans.... big time!
> 
> Unwatchable is how I'd catergoizes it.
> 
> Items and people moving across the screen (sometimes they don't even have to be moving across the screen, just standing there moving their hands, or shaking their head) appear jerky, sort of like they are studdering across the screen.
> 
> This is with the King Kong HD-DVD, didn't bother checking any other titles.
> 
> Is this what you're looking for?
> 
> Should I try putting Frame Lock = Auto?
> 
> 
> dc


*THANKS for TRYING.*


There you go --- Some of those FLIES in the ointment

Bob Referred to.


It works on PAPER but not in the real world.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DC,

Thanks for checking!


Now what we need to figure out is whether it is the D2 screwing up the de-interlacing or the Toshiba screwing up its 1080i/60Hz output. Of course if it is the Toshiba, then it would have to be doing it in some way that DOESN'T screw up TVs receiving that as 1080i/60Hz, or through a scaler as 1080p/60Hz. Doesn't sound likely.


Um, I'm also making an assumption here that the content coming off the King Kong HD-DVD is actually 1080p/24Hz. It occurs to me that I'm not sure of that. Can someone verify that?


One other possibility here is that the Pearl wants its 1080p/24Hz as Progressive Segmented Frames (i.e, 1080psf/24Hz). This just means that instead of having the two interlaced fields shuffeld together for each frame (line 1, then line 2, then line 3, etc.) it wants the fields one after the other (line 1, then line 3, etc., followed by line 2, then line 4, etc.). If that's the case, then we may need to specify the D2's output format using Live Video Settings Editor. I'm not sure how you'd set the D2 to do that. Probably setting it to 1080i/48Hz or some such.


Let's see, what other players/displays can we try this with? If the D2 has a bug doing this, that would be very disappointing.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Um, I'm also making an assumption here that the content coming off the King Kong HD-DVD is actually 1080p/24Hz. It occurs to me that I'm not sure of that. Can someone verify that?
> 
> 
> One other possibility here is that the Pearl wants its 1080p/24Hz as Progressive Segmented Frames (i.e, 1080psf/24Hz). This just means that instead of having the two interlaced fields shuffeld together for each frame (line 1, then line 2, then line 3, etc.) it wants the fields one after the other (line 1, then line 3, etc., followed by line 2, then line 4, etc.). If that's the case, then we may need to specify the D2's output format using Live Video Settings Editor. I'm not sure how you'd set the D2 to do that. Probably setting it to 1080i/48Hz or some such.
> 
> --Bob



BOB:


YES - KK and every HD DVD I know of [movies at least] are 1080p24.


Someone will jump in and say something is not 1080p24. But I don't

own any of them [GRIN]!


The Ruby - Which I have wants 24psf. The Pearl is suppose to take

24p. So I think that leaves us pointing to flies [GRIN]!


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bkwong73* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I am considering getting the Anthem D2, and upgrading from my current EAD Theatermaster Signature.
> 
> 
> But I was wondering if anybody here is using the D2 with the Xbox 360 and the HD DVD Drive?
> 
> 
> If you are, how is the audio especially with the DD+ that is outputed through HDDVD's?
> 
> 
> Currently my EAD Theatermaster Signature is not accepting the audio signal correctly with the Optical Digital output.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance any input.
> 
> 
> bkwong73



Hi BK...

my 2cents worth...

I would recommend a standalone player like the Toshiba as well.

My experiences with the 360 add on are not the best. I find the remote particularly poor with lacklustre response. Little things like not being able to open the drawer from the remote seems like a major shortcoming. The unit is quite noisy (the 360 is on it's own).

I have had some issues with discs not playing properly - mostly music discs which might have something to do with bitrates but not sure...the Pat Metheny Live HD won't play past the opening studio logo.

No HDMI means no 1080p as well as no DD-TD or DTS-HD either.

I had every intention of buying the Toshiba HD-XA2 imminently so this was merely a stopgap solution but for serious home theatre enthusiasts it probably is not the way to go. It is probably fine for game enthusiasts who want to watch the occasional movie though!

/\\/\\


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BOB:
> 
> 
> YES - KK and every HD DVD I know of [movies at least] are 1080p24.
> 
> 
> Someone will jump in and say something is not 1080p24. But I don't
> 
> own any of them [GRIN]!
> 
> 
> The Ruby - Which I have wants 24psf. The Pearl is suppose to take
> 
> 24p. So I think that leaves us pointing to flies [GRIN]!



Not sure I follow this but I do know when I feed the Pearl directly from the XA1 the Pearl tells me it's receiveing 1080i/60.

Does this mean anything special to our conversation? Do I need to change a setting within the XA1?

Is there a setting within the Pearl that I need to change when feeding it 1080p/24 from the D2?


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BOB:
> 
> 
> YES - KK and every HD DVD I know of [movies at least] are 1080p24.
> 
> 
> Someone will jump in and say something is not 1080p24. But I don't
> 
> own any of them [GRIN]!
> 
> 
> The Ruby - Which I have wants 24psf. The Pearl is suppose to take
> 
> 24p. So I think that leaves us pointing to flies [GRIN]!



Please forgive the highly possible repetition here but does this mean that we will come out of the XA2/Bluray equivilant with 1080P 24PSF TO THE D2 then what to the ruby? 1080p 48?????


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not sure I follow this but I do know when I feed the Pearl directly from the XA1 the Pearl tells me it's receiveing 1080i/60.
> 
> Does this mean anything special to our conversation? Do I need to change a setting within the XA1?
> 
> Is there a setting within the Pearl that I need to change when feeding it 1080p/24 from the D2?



Nothing needs to change in the X1.


If the D2 outputs 1080p/24 to the Pearl - it should sync up.


THAT IS IN THEORY [GRIN]!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Please forgive the highly possible repetition here but does this mean that we will come out of the XA2/Bluray equivilant with 1080P 24PSF TO THE D2 then what to the ruby? 1080p 48?????
> 
> 
> Peter



If you have an X2 - which INITIALLY will NOT support 1080p/24 - but

when it does - then you feed it to the D2 1080p/24.


Same for Blu-Ray 1080p/24.


The D2 will need to convert 1080p/24 to 1080p/24psf - IF IT CAN [GRIN]??????


I'll know that answer Friday NIGHT!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If this 1080i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz stuff isn't working, we're going to have to resolve it through Anthem. I can't think of any alternate combination of settings that should work better.

--Bob


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drmabuse,
> 
> If the player can decode the format at all, then you can indeed get the full quality, multi-channel, digital audio over the HDMI connection to the D2. It comes as high res, multi-channel "PCM" which is simply the output of the decoder in the player.
> 
> 
> Passing this stuff to the D2 as HDMI PCM is the ideal way of doing it.
> 
> 
> I don't know off hand which decoders ship with the new Toshiba.
> 
> --Bob



Does the AVM50 handle hdmi 1.1 audio exactly the same way as the D2? Will it need more than a software upgrade to handle 1.3?

Thanks, getting my tosh a2 tomorrow and need an hdmi audio piece. Love the gennum chip and can get this or the Optoma HD3000, that has the same gennum chip in it, to go with my Optoma HD7100. I could get the scaler separate from the audio, but it appears the D2 or the AVM50 will do the same trick, but I may still go separate if I can't get the hdmi audio features with the AVM50. I think the D2 may be too much for me and am hopeful the AVM50 can handle the audio for 1.1.

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

buyrightlow,

The audio side of the AVM-50 is pretty close but not identical to the audio side of the D2. The major difference is that the D2 upsamples all incoming audio to 192Khz prior to any processing.


In addition, the D2 has spare processing power which is expected to be utilized by a very powerful room EQ upgrade rumored to be coming out in 2007.


As I recall the power supply is better in the D2 as well.


Neither the D2 nor the AVM-50 can be upgraded from the current HDMI V1.1 to HDMI V1.3 by software. The HDMI driver chips for V1.3 are different. On the other hand, there is nothing especially wonderful about HDMI V1.3 despite furious marketing efforts to convince you otherwise.


The bottom line is that the D2 has a more exotic audio solution than the AVM-50, but the AVM-50 offers a perfectly reasonable solution for HD-DVD and Blue Ray audio and video.

--Bob


----------



## drlopezmdfacc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Honestly Levesque, I was just trying to spare the good doctor a heart attack(pun intended)!!!!!I too put in not two but three 20 amp(P5 and P2) dedicated circuits to a separate dedicated 100 amp service that looks after the home theater building exclusively. The main house has a separate 200 amp service. I am curious however as the literature from Anthem specifically asked for NO line conditioning whatsoever which I assume would allow for true unfettered peaks to be delivered to the amps without any power conditioning. I do protect against surges but leave the frequency alone. Because I am completely isolated from the main house by a 30 foot sound proofed corridor I am prone to playing most material at reference levels. My wife has her own THX system that only ever processes Oprah!
> 
> 
> I assume that if there is a difference without the PANAMAX that it would be so miniscule that we would be accused of esoteric irrelevance to discuss it here.
> 
> 
> or would it?
> 
> 
> Peter



Ok, now you have me a little intrigued. Sounds like I should have my electrician come to the house before the devices arrive and are plugged in. What do I tell him? BTW, thanks for all the free help. This website is great but somewhat addictive...my wife is starting to wonder about all the time I am suddenly spending at the computer!


----------



## drlopezmdfacc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My biases:
> 
> 
> * If I had to buy a new SD DVD player today I would buy the Oppo 970. Period. And that's from someone currently using a Pioneer Elite DV-59avi. The only other viable option is to step up to a Denon 5910, but then you are paying a SUBSTANTIAL price premium for only modest noise reduction improvement over what the D2 can already do for you.
> 
> 
> * However I would rather wait until I can buy either an HD-DVD or Blue Ray player that is as good as the Oppo for "legacy" formats. I don't really want to buy both since I think that's just catering to the industry.
> 
> 
> * If you are going to buy a new display today for your primary, critical viewing area, you really owe it to yourself to get a quality 1080p native resolution display that can accept 1080p/24Hz or 1080p/48Hz input and display that at 1080p/48Hz, or 1080p/72Hz or a higher multiple of 24. Accepting 1080p/24Hz input and displaying it at either 1080p/24Hz or 1080p/60Hz is *NOT* an acceptable option. Expect more such displays next year, and expect that they will be differentiated by other critical characteristics such as black level, ease of calibration, and price.
> 
> --Bob



I currently own a 65" Pioneer Elite HD RPTV which has (to my eye) an awesome picture but I am considering giving it to my in-laws and buying the Sony KDS-R70XBR2 70" SXRD 1080p XBR Rear Projection HDTV to marry with the D2. Does this TV offer the display capability you reference above? I could not tell from looking at the product brochure. Also will I need to? The Pioneer is only 1080i but all the HDTV I watch on cable via a Scientific Atlanta HD-DVR with HDMI-DVI direct input to the TV looks simply stunning. Will the D2 improve on this picture? Thank you again for sharing your extensive knowledge with the rest of us mere mortal wannabes.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I currently own a 65" Pioneer Elite HD RPTV which has (to my eye) an awesome picture but I am considering giving it to my in-laws and buying the Sony KDS-R70XBR2 70" SXRD 1080p XBR Rear Projection HDTV to marry with the D2. Does this TV offer the display capability you reference above? I could not tell from looking at the product brochure. Also will I need to? The Pioneer is only 1080i but all the HDTV I watch on cable via a Scientific Atlanta HD-DVR with HDMI-DVI direct input to the TV looks simply stunning. Will the D2 improve on this picture? Thank you again for sharing your extensive knowledge with the rest of us mere mortal wannabes.



As far as I know - it is a Pearl inside a BOX with a Mirror.


Therefore it should be as good as you can get.


And Yes - A lot us here have a D2 with either a Ruby or a Pearl.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I currently own a 65" Pioneer Elite HD RPTV which has (to my eye) an awesome picture but I am considering giving it to my in-laws and buying the Sony KDS-R70XBR2 70" SXRD 1080p XBR Rear Projection HDTV to marry with the D2. Does this TV offer the display capability you reference above? I could not tell from looking at the product brochure. Also will I need to? The Pioneer is only 1080i but all the HDTV I watch on cable via a Scientific Atlanta HD-DVR with HDMI-DVI direct input to the TV looks simply stunning. Will the D2 improve on this picture? Thank you again for sharing your extensive knowledge with the rest of us mere mortal wannabes.



I don't know the details of that Sony. The best I can suggest is that you try to download the actual owner's manual from the Sony web site. Those manuals generally have more details and fine print (describing gotchas) than the marketing spec sheets.


If the set is a true 1080p/60Hz set (as is likely) then the D2 will indeed most likely give you a better image than if you run your HDTV directly into the set. The D2 does "motion adaptive" de-interlacing of 1080i to 1080p. This is very unusual. It is the best style of de-interlacing for 480i to 480p, but most systems don't have the processing power to do it that well for the HDTV images as well. They do a much simpler form of de-interlacing called "bob and weave". Now whether you will be able to see the differences, particularly compared to your good Pioneer, is much harder to say.


As for this "judder-free" stuff for films, I'll have to refer you to the Sony documentation to see if the set can accept 1080p/24Hz at all and also whether it will display that at /24Hz, or /48Hz, or /7Hz, or whether it will do "the WRONG thing" and display it at /60Hz.


Also I believe the Pioneer is a CRT-based RPTV and the Sony is not. If that's correct, your Sony will require careful calibration to get blacks approaching as good as your CRT was able to deliver. On the other hand, you will have no "interlace flicker" whatsoever.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, now you have me a little intrigued. Sounds like I should have my electrician come to the house before the devices arrive and are plugged in. What do I tell him? BTW, thanks for all the free help. This website is great but somewhat addictive...my wife is starting to wonder about all the time I am suddenly spending at the computer!



In this rarified air it is sometime too easy to fall prey to the exagurated or the high tech hype, especially with the likes of some of the well informed and highly experienced coaches who will remain nameless Bob, Alain and Drhankz to name but a few. I actually met one of the sound engineers on some of my absolute favorite reference movies........what an incredible rush.....


Tonight I just put on one of my favorite concerts and played it at reference level. First.....it wasn't loud!!!!!It had presence and impact with virtually no rough edges. I give most of the credit to the Anthem D2/P5P2 combination with the M&k's finding new tonal qualities that just were not present with the Denon. I remember thinking with the Denon playing the same concert as tonight that I didn't think it could get any better for the genre in the same room. Well its not just a simple evolutionary step forward .....there is a new texture especially in the audio notwithstanding that the video provided as close to the actual experience of being on stage at the Greek Theater as it can get. Speilberg would not be happy with the lighting or the placing of a remote high definition camera right next to the drummers throne......what a colossal stupid goof but in all not too far from the real experience of being there.

My rather lengthy comment to your concern is that the audio punch offered may well have been assisted by the fact that the P5 had the power it needed to 'play it out' with as visceral effect as you would get sitting in the first row. It wasn't the volume, it was the phenomenal presence of 'being there'! Did those dedicated 20 amp circuits define that qualitative difference????? Truthfully I don't know but I'm glad I didn't take any chances as the result has very much enriched the core of my soul.

Sorry for the prosaic rambling I'll try not to do it again. I suspect Alain or Drhankz might be able to put it more scientifically if not succinctly!


Peter


----------



## rudolpht

The 24 on disc to 1080i output from player to 24 on display is interesting, including the results.


I have a Tosh A1 and an XA2 on order. I'll demote the A1 or firesale it. I assumed the 1080p would be better output into Anthem to a 1080p display, but the upgrade was more to get past the slow speed an get a generation better technology. If I was looking for a far superior picture, particularly with the Anthem in between, I assumed I would be disappointed, getting pretty much as good as it gets right now.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 24 on disc to 1080i output from player to 24 on display is interesting, including the results.
> 
> 
> I have a Tosh A1 and an XA2 on order. I'll demote the A1 or firesale it. I assumed the 1080p would be better output into Anthem to a 1080p display, but the upgrade was more to get past the slow speed an get a generation better technology. If I was looking for a far superior picture, particularly with the Anthem in between, I assumed I would be disappointed, getting pretty much as good as it gets right now.



Obviously the jury is still out but not for long!!!!



Peter


----------



## sfield

DreamCatcher, thank you for verifying this. The jerkiness you describe matches what I have seen.


First, let me recap what I have observed:


1. The Sony Pearl DOES correctly support 24fps output. I have cofirmed this with an HTPC using several methods, using powerstrip to set the output to [email protected]:

a. A program called juddertest shows no judder in the moving horizontal line

b. A series of mpeg-2 transport stream test patterns created by dr1394. There is no judder in the horizontal moving line.

c. Various film based content does not show the 3:2 judder. A specific scene is in LOTR2 (the scene where treebeard sees the devastation caused by the Sauroman, and the other Ents show up -- lots of panning here). Also, many films have rock solid and smooth rolling credits at the end (whereas there is subtle judder at 60hz).

d. I have the HTPC input to the Anthem set to FrameLock=auto, so the anthem just sync's to 23.976hz, without changing the frequency.


2. The builtin timing values for [email protected] in the Anthem is 24.00hz, and this should likely be 23.976hz for most situations. The custom video resolution I created is closer to 23.976hz, and works correctly for a longer period of time, but still goes into the jerky mode. HOWEVER, the custom resolution less frequently "self-corrects" (temporarilly at least) to a non-jerky image. The builtin resolution does correct after some time period. Also, the jerkiness starts frequently during scene changes in the flim content (film/cadence detection problems?). ( I will play around more with custom timing values over the next week ).


3. This problem is not unique to the Toshiba HD-A1. Film based content played back through the Dish PVR921 (1080i output) has the same problem. The Island, Saving Private Ryan (both in HD) are a couple of examples where the problem manifests.


4. I also have a Sencore HDTV996 running custom software that can feed arbitrary mpeg-2 transport stream content from a file server modulated over an 8VSB HD OTA carrier (this is output onto OTA channel 14). This same content causes jerkiness when this content is "tuned" by the Dish PVR921 OTA HD tuner (note this is effectively a bit-perfect mpeg-2 transfer). When played back on the HTPC at 23.976hz, the jerkiness is not visible with the same mpeg-2 content.


5. If you want to reproduce the problem with the Toshiba HD-A1, with the Anthem set to framelock=off [email protected], insert the Mission Impossible 3 disc. You can hit the "display" button to get the timestamps.


a. goto scene 11 (bridge attack scene). sometimes, this jerks the first couple of seconds.

b. 1:02:11 (brief jerkiness with armored car).

c. 1:02:27 (close up of Tom cruise).

d. 1:03:08 lots of jerking here as the action heats up. The jerking lasts many seconds.

e. 1:03:50 jerking here when Tom Cruise is hanging upside down.

f. 1:04:34 jerking starts when the bad guys come into view sitting in the helicopter.


6. With the custom resolution, things are fine until approx 1:03:47, goes jerky, but recovers (temporarilly) a few seconds later.


It's possible this is just a timinig setting issue, but more analysis is required.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK,
> 
> There IS jerkiness in pans.... big time!
> 
> Unwatchable is how I'd catergoizes it.
> 
> Items and people moving across the screen (sometimes they don't even have to be moving across the screen, just standing there moving their hands, or shaking their head) appear jerky, sort of like they are studdering across the screen.
> 
> This is with the King Kong HD-DVD, didn't bother checking any other titles.
> 
> Is this what you're looking for?
> 
> Should I try putting Frame Lock = Auto?
> 
> 
> dc


----------



## Bob Pariseau

sfield,

Have you tried any of the same experiments with 480i/60Hz input from a standard DVD player playing film based content? If the D2 produces solid 1080p/24Hz from that then we are closing in on it. It would suggest that the 1080i cadence detection in the D2 has a problem.


Cadence detection and processing of a 480i source should be less of a challenge of course (bad edits notwithstanding), but the *OUTPUT* timing has to be the same. So if 480i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz is essentially solid then the OUTPUT timing is right and it is the 1080i cadence detection at fault.


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Also have you had any contact with Anthem on this? The A1 experiments should be quite reproducible for them.


===================================================


EDITED TO ADD: Contrariwise, if the 480i input *ALSO* fails to produce solid 1080p/24Hz output then I thnk that points the finger at the output timing. Based on the HQV, standard DVD de-interlacing test disc I think the D2 has proven its ability to do cadence detection properly when fed 480i/60Hz input.

--Bob


----------



## sfield

No, I haven't tried these experiments with 480i content. I don't have any devices in my chain that output 480i over DVI/HDMI. I will trying hooking up the HD-A1 / PVR921 via component and set them to 480i, and try that.


The fact that the jerkiness frequently starts during scene changes is very suspicious.


I have talked to Anthem about this on several occasions. Nick indicated they don't have a Pearl or equivalent display hardware handy to verify this. Nick did suggest creating a custom resolution. (and the parameters he first provided, which I later adjusted, were significantly different than the 1080p24 settings bultin to the unit).


Also, as a followup to the Mission impossible 3 repro steps, the credits at the end show the problem clearly. They are smooth for a while, and then they jerk. There is sort of a subtle "shimmering" (not judder) around some of the text though, which isn't uniform across the horizontal plane. I haven't checked if this is present at [email protected] yet.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> sfield,
> 
> Have you tried any of the same experiments with 480i/60Hz input from a standard DVD player playing film based content? If the D2 produces solid 1080p/24Hz from that then we are closing in on it. It would suggest that the 1080i cadence detection in the D2 has a problem.
> 
> 
> Cadence detection and processing of a 480i source should be less of a challenge of course (bad edits notwithstanding), but the *OUTPUT* timing has to be the same. So if 480i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz is essentially solid then the OUTPUT timing is right and it is the 1080i cadence detection at fault.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Also have you had any contact with Anthem on this? The A1 experiments should be quite reproducible for them.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

sfield,

480i COMPONENT video input from a standard, progressive DVD player should suffice for this test -- i.e., to determine if the D2 is able to put out solid 1080p/24Hz from a 480i source.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Also, as a followup to the Mission impossible 3 repro steps, the credits at the end show the problem clearly. They are smooth for a while, and then they jerk. There is sort of a subtle "shimmering" (not judder) around some of the text though, which isn't uniform across the horizontal plane. I haven't checked if this is present at [email protected] yet.



If the cadence detection is screwed up for 1080i input (when targeting 1080p/24 output) then the de-interlacing is probably going to pot as well. This may be what you are seeing in that text. Since the resolution is quite a bit higher it won't be as obvious as de-interlacing failures (jaggies) of a 480 source.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1. The Sony Pearl DOES correctly support 24fps output. I have cofirmed this with an HTPC using several methods, using powerstrip to set the output to [email protected]



The actual broadcast rate for television in the US is 29.97fps for technical reasons involving the way the NTSC TV broadcast signal is decoded into its component parts upon reception.


This amounts to a 0.1% slowdown, or roughly 1 less frame for every 33 seconds of TV. The eyes and ears don't notice the difference.


Film intended for delivery to television sets is thus also slowed down by 0.1% as the first step in prepping it for conversion to TV format. The result is that the real film frame rate for NTSC television related media is 23.976fps. Then you can maintain the simple relationship that 4 frames of film have to happen in the same amount of time as 5 frames of NTSC TV -- i.e., nominally, 24fps compared to 30fps.


Alternatively that's 8 "fields" of film for every 10 "fields" of video. And that's why duplicating film "fields" in the 2, 3, 3, 2 cadence works to raise film rate to video rate -- the "telecine" process.


That said, the TV *SHOULDN'T BE THAT SENSITIVE* to this frame rate. There's some re-synching flexibility built into the system. So 1080p/24Hz signals should still sync up on a TV that ideally expects 1080p/23.976Hz.


I'm more inclined to believe that the problem is with the D2's cadence detection at 1080i/60Hz than with output signal timing.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The actual broadcast rate for television in the US is 29.97fps for technical reasons involving the way the NTSC TV broadcast signal is decoded into its component parts upon reception.
> 
> 
> This amounts to a 0.1% slowdown, or roughly 1 less frame for every 33 seconds of TV. The eyes and ears don't notice the difference.
> 
> 
> Film intended for delivery to television sets is thus also slowed down by 0.1% as the first step in prepping it for conversion to TV format. The result is that the real film frame rate for NTSC television related media is 23.976fps. Then you can maintain the simple relationship that 4 frames of film have to happen in the same amount of time as 5 frames of NTSC TV -- i.e., nominally, 24fps compared to 30fps.
> 
> 
> Alternatively that's 8 "fields" of film for every 10 "fields" of video. And that's why duplicating film "fields" in the 2, 3, 3, 2 cadence works to raise film rate to video rate -- the "telecine" process.
> 
> 
> That said, the TV *SHOULDN'T BE THAT SENSITIVE* to this frame rate. There's some re-synching flexibility built into the system. So 1080p/24Hz signals should still sync up on a TV that ideally expects 1080p/23.976Hz.
> 
> 
> I'm more inclined to believe that the problem is with the D2's cadence detection at 1080i/60Hz than with output signal timing.
> 
> --Bob




Bob for the life of me I don't know where you are getting this 'stuff' but it is most welcome and appreciated by us all.


My only fear is that my laptop is going to start singing "DAISY, DAISY" with your next post and if it does.......I'm outta here!


Peter


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bkwong73* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I am considering getting the Anthem D2, and upgrading from my current EAD Theatermaster Signature.
> 
> 
> But I was wondering if anybody here is using the D2 with the Xbox 360 and the HD DVD Drive?
> 
> 
> If you are, how is the audio especially with the DD+ that is outputed through HDDVD's?
> 
> 
> Currently my EAD Theatermaster Signature is not accepting the audio signal correctly with the Optical Digital output.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance any input.
> 
> 
> bkwong73



The Xbox 360 with HD DVD Drive does not support HDMI output. Thus, it is not possible to take advantage of the latest codecs and output them via HDMI & LPCM. That's one thing that I liked about the PS3, which supports decoding the advanced codecs and outputs them via LPCM output (at this time, DTS-HD is not supported but is planned for a future firmware upgrade). The PS3 also supports HDMI v1.3 for future receivers/preamps that can decode the codecs. Although I like the ease of use and integration associated with a standalone DVD player, I decided (for now) to use a PS3 instead of a standalone blu-ray player. The PS3 is also a lot quieter than the Xbox 360 - I can't hear it from where I sit - my projector is louder, actually. None of the standalone blu-rays support (or have officially stated they will support via firmware upgrade) all the advanced codecs _AND_ also output 1080p/24. So, I decided to get the PS3. Only disadvantage is a bluetooth remote (can't program commands in a universal remote such as my Pronto, although there have been some workarounds), and the PS3 only supports 1080p/60. But, we can't have it all, and in the future, once there is a standalone player that supports all the features I want, then I would get it (and not feel bad since the PS3 is still good for games, though I don' t have any time for games...). See the following web pages:


1. Compares PS3 with Xbox 360 w/ HD-DVD add on:

http://www.highdefdigest.com/feature...x360addon.html 


2. Compares PS3 with other standalone blu-ray players:

http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/hd-...c-players.html 



Sorry for getting a little off topic here, but lots of folks are just now adding high def DVD players to their Anthems....


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Xbox 360 with HD DVD Drive does not support HDMI output. Thus, it is not possible to take advantage of the latest codecs and output them via HDMI & LPCM. That's one thing that I liked about the PS3, which supports decoding the advanced codecs and outputs them via LPCM output (at this time, DTS-HD is not supported but is planned for a future firmware upgrade). The PS3 also supports HDMI v1.3 for future receivers/preamps that can decode the codecs. Although I like the ease of use and integration associated with a standalone DVD player, I decided (for now) to use a PS3 instead of a standalone blu-ray player. The PS3 is also a lot quieter than the Xbox 360 - I can't hear it from where I sit - my projector is louder, actually. None of the standalone blu-rays support (or have officially stated they will support via firmware upgrade) all the advanced codecs _AND_ also output 1080p/24. So, I decided to get the PS3. Only disadvantage is a bluetooth remote (can't program commands in a universal remote such as my Pronto, although there have been some workarounds), and the PS3 only supports 1080p/60. But, we can't have it all, and in the future, once there is a standalone player that supports all the features I want, then I would get it (and not feel bad since the PS3 is still good for games, though I don' t have any time for games...). See the following web pages:
> 
> 
> 1. Compares PS3 with Xbox 360 w/ HD-DVD add on:
> 
> http://www.highdefdigest.com/feature...x360addon.html
> 
> 
> 2. Compares PS3 with other standalone blu-ray players:
> 
> http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/hd-...c-players.html
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for getting a little off topic here, but lots of folks are just now adding high def DVD players to their Anthems....



The best way to go is the Tosh hd dvd a2, mine will be here Friday and I'm out buying the AVM50 to go with it, along with my Optoma HD 7100. I can't wait to take advantage of the best audio and picture quality available.


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> suthrn,
> 
> Your Comcast HD/SD box will look just spiffing through the D2 via HDMI!
> 
> 
> Yes, set the Comcast to do 1080i for HDTV and 480i for SDTV since it doesn't have a "native" mode that will also automatically pass 720p. Set the Comcast box for a 16:9 TV without any pillar boxing for SDTV -- i.e., leave it to the Anthem to do that. Set the Anthem Scale Output to Letter/Pillar box if you want automatic pillar box bars for 4:3 content.
> 
> 
> Set the Comcast box for YCbCr 4:4:4 HDMI output.
> 
> 
> Run a separate optical cable from the Comcast to the D2 for audio as this will minimize the startup delay for audio when you change channels between SD and HD or the other way.
> 
> 
> Beware that you may need to upgrade your HDMI cable from the Comcast box since the Comcast box has such a crappy implementation of the HDMI driver circuit. Beware that you may need to reenter your settings in the Comcast box from time to time when it has one of its periodic strokes and simply forgets.
> 
> 
> Set the Anthem to HDMI Repeater = NO for the Comcast input. Do not forget this crucial step.
> 
> 
> Calibrate the levels on your TV against the test patterns generated by the D2 itself. Then look for the INHD "Tune Up" program and the "Bars and Tones" program which can be found in both HD and SD on different channels from time to time and use that program to refine the D2's input settings for the Comcast (typically only modest color and tint adjustments).
> 
> --Bob



Bob, do you have any recomendations for setting up the avm-50 to work with direct tv's h20 sat box, I get only 2 channel audio via hdmi, that amongst many other issues.


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> sfield,
> 
> Have you tried any of the same experiments with 480i/60Hz input from a standard DVD player playing film based content? If the D2 produces solid 1080p/24Hz from that then we are closing in on it. It would suggest that the 1080i cadence detection in the D2 has a problem.
> 
> 
> Cadence detection and processing of a 480i source should be less of a challenge of course (bad edits notwithstanding), but the *OUTPUT* timing has to be the same. So if 480i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz is essentially solid then the OUTPUT timing is right and it is the 1080i cadence detection at fault.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Also have you had any contact with Anthem on this? The A1 experiments should be quite reproducible for them.
> 
> 
> ===================================================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: Contrariwise, if the 480i input *ALSO* fails to produce solid 1080p/24Hz output then I thnk that points the finger at the output timing. Based on the HQV, standard DVD de-interlacing test disc I think the D2 has proven its ability to do cadence detection properly when fed 480i/60Hz input.
> 
> --Bob



OK, I tried this, OPPO at 480i to D2 via HDMI, set D2 to 1080p/24 and on to Pearl via HDMI.

Again video studdering









Also tried this via Directv native output 480i, 720p & 1080i

video studdering is always there







with D2 set to 1080p/24, it goes away when set to 1080p/60..............


dc


dc


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, do you have any recomendations for setting up the avm-50 to work with direct tv's h20 sat box, I get only 2 channel audio via hdmi, that amongst many other issues.



Roomraider,

Set the H20 to "native" output resolution so that it automatically passes along 480i, 720p, or 1080i according to what's coming in on each channel at the moment.


Set the H20 to expect a 16:9 TV, and set it to *NOT* generate pillar box bars either side of 4:3 content coming in on SDTV channels. Let the Anthem generate the pillar box bars as you desire by setting either Anamorphic (no bars) or Letter/Pillar Box in the Anthem's "Scale Output" setting for that input. This menu will be found as part of the Video Source Adjust menus by pressing and holding the "7" key on the Anthem remote while watching that input (as opposed to the Setup configuration menu).


You may find it best to set the Anthem's input setup for the H20 to HDMI Repeater = NO. This is in the Anthem's Setup / Source Selection menu.


Set the H20's digital audio to send out a "bitstream" instead of PCM. That will cure your lack of multi-channel audio on channels that are broadcasting that way.


If you find you are getting an annoying extra delay before audio starts when you change channels, you will likely find it better to run an optical audio cable from the H20 to the Anthem and set the Anthem to receive audio from that input instead of the HDMI cable. Again the H20 should be sending out the digital "bitstream" instead of PCM.


You'll have to describe what other problems you are having. There are quite a few people using that box with these Anthems so it shouldn't be hard to set you straight.

--Bob


----------



## Roomraider

OK so it appears that I do not know what the hell I'm doing.

$4000.00 for an Anthem AVM-50 and I don't see a video difference.

Sony 60" XBR 1 SXRD 1080I native, do I need a new 1080P display to resolve my problems?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK so it appears that I do not know what the hell I'm doing.
> 
> $4000.00 for an Anthem AVM-50 and I don't see a video difference.
> 
> Sony 60" XBR 1 SXRD 1080I native, do I need a new 1080P display to resolve my problems?



Odds are all you need to do are to set the basic Blacks/Whites/Colors/Sharpness settings properly to take best advantage of the video capabilities of the Anthem and your TV.


Here's a post I made a while back in this thread which discusses the basics:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9198737 


If you can describe the sorts of things you are seeing we might be able to offer more suggestions.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, I tried this, OPPO at 480i to D2 via HDMI, set D2 to 1080p/24 and on to Pearl via HDMI.
> 
> Again video studdering
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried this via Directv native output 480i, 720p & 1080i
> 
> video studdering is always there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with D2 set to 1080p/24, it goes away when set to 1080p/60..............
> 
> 
> dc



Well this is certainly annoying!


**********************************************


ARE THERE ANY OTHER READERS OUT THERE WITH 1080p/24HZ CAPABLE DISPLAYS THAT HAVE MANAGED TO MAKE THIS WORK?


IF SO, PLEASE POST YOUR RESULTS.


YOUR RESULTS ARE VALUABLE WHETHER OR NOT YOUR DISPLAY ACTUALLY USES A /24Hz or /60Hz REFRESH RATE TO DISPLAY SUCH AN INPUT.


**********************************************


Anthem surely must have tried 1080p/24Hz video output on SOME display. And the recommendation to turn Frame Lock = OFF when viewing film content embedded in /60Hz input comes right from the Anthem V1.1x manual.


We need to get some more evidence here from other folks who can try this.

--Bob


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Roomraider,
> 
> Set the H20 to "native" output resolution so that it automatically passes along 480i, 720p, or 1080i according to what's coming in on each channel at the moment.
> 
> 
> Set the H20 to expect a 16:9 TV, and set it to *NOT* generate pillar box bars either side of 4:3 content coming in on SDTV channels. Let the Anthem generate the pillar box bars as you desire by setting either Anamorphic (no bars) or Letter/Pillar Box in the Anthem's "Scale Output" setting for that input. This menu will be found as part of the Video Source Adjust menus by pressing and holding the "7" key on the Anthem remote while watching that input (as opposed to the Setup configuration menu).
> 
> 
> You may find it best to set the Anthem's input setup for the H20 to HDMI Repeater = NO. This is in the Anthem's Setup / Source Selection menu.
> 
> 
> Set the H20's digital audio to send out a "bitstream" instead of PCM. That will cure your lack of multi-channel audio on channels that are broadcasting that way.
> 
> 
> If you find you are getting an annoying extra delay before audio starts when you change channels, you will likely find it better to run an optical audio cable from the H20 to the Anthem and set the Anthem to receive audio from that input instead of the HDMI cable. Again the H20 should be sending out the digital "bitstream" instead of PCM.
> 
> 
> You'll have to describe what other problems you are having. There are quite a few people using that box with these Anthems so it shouldn't be hard to set you straight.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I really appreciate your help, I really do and I'll try what you suggest, but my other problem is hooking up my theater pc to the anthem via DVI to HDMI, The Anthem doesn't recognize the video card which outputs native 1080 p. Prior to the Anthem it worked just fine straight to the display, loaded an older Nvidia driver, turned on the Anthem 1rst then started the PC and it recognized it but coming out of standby mode the Anthem drops the video signal and shows the blue screen/no signal. In addition to that, I tried using the AVM-50 setup software via serial cable and when I pressed "load settings" the AVM-50 shut off and displayed a message stating: there has been a power interuption, check the time. Wow! sorry to bother you with my nightmare.

This AVM-50 remote doen't have codes for my display, sat box or oppo 970 DVD player, If anyone has the proper codes I will forever be in your debt.


----------



## "MIKEY"

First off, thanks for the technical assistance on this thread regarding the D2!


Now, we've had the D2/P5 combo for about a month. I cannot express my sheer enjoyment listening to music through this set-up. Nine Ball put it right when he stated, "enriching the soul..."


The Oppo 970 arrives this week. Will post observations.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

"MIKEY"


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, I really appreciate your help, I really do and I'll try what you suggest, but my other problem is hooking up my theater pc to the anthem via DVI to HDMI, The Anthem doesn't recognize the video card which outputs native 1080 p. Prior to the Anthem it worked just fine straight to the display, loaded an older Nvidia driver, turned on the Anthem 1rst then started the PC and it recognized it but coming out of standby mode the Anthem drops the video signal and shows the blue screen/no signal. In addition to that, I tried using the AVM-50 setup software via serial cable and when I pressed "load settings" the AVM-50 shut off and displayed a message stating: there has been a power interuption, check the time. Wow! sorry to bother you with my nightmare.



For your HTPC you will likely need to insert a gadget called "DVI Detective" in the path that will deal with the resolution handshaking problem your HTPC and Anthem are having on startup. I don't use an HTPC myself, but there have been a few other HTPC posters on here saying that the problem had to do with resolutions changing as the video card starts up and the DVI handshake getting confused.


You may also find it useful to set HDMI Repeater = NO in the Anthem for your HTPC input. That makes the Anthem pretend to the source that the source is directly connected to a TV.


As for the PC software, tell us what version of firmware is installed on your AVM-50. To do this, turn it on and press the Select key on the remote. The firmware version is at the end of the first line of status info displayed.


When sending info between the Anthem and the PC the Anthem resets its internal time of day clock according to the time of day clock on the PC. If your PC's clock is set strangely (e.g., the year is way off), the Anthem may possibly reject that and then report that it's internal clock seems wrong (thus the apparent power fail message), which is just a reminder to you to set it manually using the Anthem's own Setup menu.


Alternatively, the serial connection between the Anthem and your PC may not be working properly. Are you by any chance using a USB to Serial adapter instead of a built-in Serial port on the PC?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, I tried this, OPPO at 480i to D2 via HDMI, set D2 to 1080p/24 and on to Pearl via HDMI.
> 
> Again video studdering
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried this via Directv native output 480i, 720p & 1080i
> 
> video studdering is always there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with D2 set to 1080p/24, it goes away when set to 1080p/60..............
> 
> 
> dc



DC,

I'm going to beg your indulgence to run yet another 480i test:


Try toggling the HDMI Repeater setting for the Oppo input in the D2 to the other value from whatever you are using now.


It occurs to me that something may be getting confused here due to the extra communication that goes on between the Oppo and the Pearl (through the Anthem) when HDMI Repeater is set to YES.


Also, please go to the Info panel in the menus under the "7" key and report the precise input and output values the Anthem claims to be using when this fails. For example, the input from the Oppo should be reported by the D2 as HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4, 720x480i/59.94Hz.


Please report the output figures as well from that panel.


While we are at it, do the Video Source Adjust menus and bar charts themselves look stable and clean (no de-interlacing problems) when the Anthem is sending 1080p/24Hz to the Pearl?


----------------------------------------------


sfield or DC,

It would also still be useful to try the 480i input test using Component video just to try to nail down whether this is HDMI input related. Of course there's no Repeater setting for Component input.


We had some reports quite a ways back that some users found they needed to toggle the HDMI Sync setting in Setup / Video Output when sending different resolutions to their displays. There have been no such reports recently, and I presume whatever was going on there was fixed by subsequent Anthem software upgrades. I can't think how the HDMI Sync being wrong could result in what we are seeing, but if you get the chance to try the alternate Sync setting for this 1080p/24Hz output to your Pearl that would eliminate one other possibility.


The "correct" Sync setting will result in an image from the Anthem's built in test charts that is solid, and centered, without requiring any significant image repositioning in the display.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


My Sony Pearl is due here on Thursday. I have the Oppo as well and will give this a try. I also have the Panasonic DMP-BD10 Blu-ray player which can output 1080p.


I will report my findings.



Regards,


----------



## drlopezmdfacc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I do envy your first experience.....you are in for a treat. Bob is (as usual) correct with his observations. I have a short run and the RCA work well. The HDMI cable issues are very important especially if the run is more than 20 feet. I'm sorry I forget what your monitor is but if you plan on going anywhere near 1080P which should be your ideal then the bandwidth requirements become less and less trivial.
> 
> 
> Note that there is a fairly significant power requirement for the p5 and that is one area I actually went to great effort to ensure that I had the recommended two 15amp dedicated circuits for the p5. Also it is strongly recommended that there not be any line conditioning on those two circuits. I don't think its fatal but the purist in me believes the rhetoric from the manual and the Anthem FAQ. Again Bob and or Levesque can comment more fully I believe. The P5 and P2 both run very cool if not cold. You will not believe the heat sinks and you will never forget the weight!!!!! I strongly advise maximum allowance for air circulation around the D2 as it is usually working hard. I wish I had the knowledge that Bob and Levesque do on the individual settings that are possible......all too often my brain just caves in when I try and follow the possibilities.
> 
> 
> To all the other recent 'acquirers' of this technology......welcome aboard. Levesque is correct when he notes that the D2 with the rumored additional audio calibration facilities will put the D2 in a league of its own and the current delays for product availability will seem insignificant.
> 
> 
> Peter



The electrician is coming out tomorrow to make sure about the power requirements and install the two 15 amp circuits. I understand that both the D2 and the P5 are supposed to go straight into the wall outlet or just the P5? Should I plug both into surge protectors? I understand no power conditioner/cleaner for the P5 but what about the D2?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well this is certainly annoying!
> 
> 
> **********************************************
> 
> 
> ARE THERE ANY OTHER READERS OUT THERE WITH 1080p/24HZ CAPABLE DISPLAYS THAT HAVE MANAGED TO MAKE THIS WORK?
> 
> 
> IF SO, PLEASE POST YOUR RESULTS.
> 
> 
> --Bob



I just got 1080p/48 working on the D2/Ruby Combination.


WORKS Perfectly.


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For your HTPC you will likely need to insert a gadget called "DVI Detective" in the path that will deal with the resolution handshaking problem your HTPC and Anthem are having on startup. I don't use an HTPC myself, but there have been a few other HTPC posters on here saying that the problem had to do with resolutions changing as the video card starts up and the DVI handshake getting confused.
> 
> 
> You may also find it useful to set HDMI Repeater = NO in the Anthem for your HTPC input. That makes the Anthem pretend to the source that the source is directly connected to a TV.
> 
> 
> As for the PC software, tell us what version of firmware is installed on your AVM-50. To do this, turn it on and press the Select key on the remote. The firmware version is at the end of the first line of status info displayed.
> 
> 
> When sending info between the Anthem and the PC the Anthem resets its internal time of day clock according to the time of day clock on the PC. If your PC's clock is set strangely (e.g., the year is way off), the Anthem may possibly
> 
> reject that and then report that it's internal clock seems wrong (thus the apparent power fail message), which is just a reminder to you to set it manually using the Anthem's own Setup menu.
> 
> 
> Alternatively, the serial connection between the Anthem and your PC may not be working properly. Are you by any chance using a USB to Serial adapter instead of a built-in Serial port on the PC?
> 
> --Bob



Bob Thanks for the reply, I've only had the AVM-50 for a week or 2 and the firmware is v 1.11.

As for the 1rst portion of your reply, thats exactly what is happening, can you tell me where to obtain 1 of these devices you speak of?

I am using a fem to male serial cable and it shuts off the AVM-50 whenever loading the internal settings for setup, the video setup program doesn't have that problem.


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DC,
> 
> I'm going to beg your indulgence to run yet another 480i test:
> 
> 
> Try toggling the HDMI Repeater setting for the Oppo input in the D2 to the other value from whatever you are using now.
> 
> 
> It occurs to me that something may be getting confused here due to the extra communication that goes on between the Oppo and the Pearl (through the Anthem) when HDMI Repeater is set to YES.
> 
> 
> Also, please go to the Info panel in the menus under the "7" key and report the precise input and output values the Anthem claims to be using when this fails. For example, the input from the Oppo should be reported by the D2 as HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4, 720x480i/59.94Hz.
> 
> 
> Please report the output figures as well from that panel.
> 
> 
> While we are at it, do the Video Source Adjust menus and bar charts themselves look stable and clean (no de-interlacing problems) when the Anthem is sending 1080p/24Hz to the Pearl?
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> sfield or DC,
> 
> It would also still be useful to try the 480i input test using Component video just to try to nail down whether this is HDMI input related. Of course there's no Repeater setting for Component input.
> 
> 
> We had some reports quite a ways back that some users found they needed to toggle the HDMI Sync setting in Setup / Video Output when sending different resolutions to their displays. There have been no such reports recently, and I presume whatever was going on there was fixed by subsequent Anthem software upgrades. I can't think how the HDMI Sync being wrong could result in what we are seeing, but if you get the chance to try the alternate Sync setting for this 1080p/24Hz output to your Pearl that would eliminate one other possibility.
> 
> 
> The "correct" Sync setting will result in an image from the Anthem's built in test charts that is solid, and centered, without requiring any significant image repositioning in the display.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, OK checking as we speak









Setting repeater to NO actually seems to make the stuttering worst if that's possible. Pearl is showing receiving a 1080/24p signal. D2 is showing receiving 720 x 480i / 59.94 CP from the 970.

The info panel is showing

Input Status:

Video Source - HDMI RGB

Signal Type - 720x480i/59.94hz

Audio Source - N/A

Flim Mode - Off

Output Status:

Signal Type - 1920x1080p/24hz

Frame Rate - 24.00hz

Line Rate - 27000.00hz

Frame Lock - Inactive


Let me know if there's anything else......


dc


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob Thanks for the reply, I've only had the AVM-50 for a week or 2 and the firmware is v 1.11.
> 
> As for the 1rst portion of your reply, thats exactly what is happening, can you tell me where to obtain 1 of these devices you speak of?
> 
> I am using a fem to male serial cable and it shuts off the AVM-50 whenever loading the internal settings for setup, the video setup program doesn't have that problem.



I believe DVI Detective is a Geffen product. Do a search in this thread as it was discussed a few times.


The Setup Editor, and the software Installer are *SUPPOSED* to power down the Anthem when communicating with it. The Installer actually does this a few times in the course of installing new software. This is not a problem. That's the way they are designed to work.


The clock related complaint is, as I said, possibly related to the current clock setting in your PC being strange.


You have the latest firmware for the Anthem. That's primarily what I wanted to check.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got 1080p/48 working on the D2/Ruby Combination.
> 
> 
> WORKS Perfectly.



You lucky dog!


OK, so when you say it is working perfectly, does that include 480i/60Hz film based input and 1080i/60Hz film based input with Frame Lock=OFF?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, OK checking as we speak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting repeater to NO actually seems to make the stuttering worst if that's possible. Pearl is showing receiving a 1080/24p signal. D2 is showing receiving 720 x 480i / 59.94 CP from the 970.
> 
> The info panel is showing
> 
> Input Status:
> 
> Video Source - HDMI RGB
> 
> Signal Type - 720x480i/59.94hz
> 
> Audio Source - N/A
> 
> Flim Mode - Off
> 
> Output Status:
> 
> Signal Type - 1920x1080p/24hz
> 
> Frame Rate - 24.00hz
> 
> Line Rate - 27000.00hz
> 
> Frame Lock - Inactive
> 
> 
> Let me know if there's anything else......
> 
> 
> dc



DC,

OK, except that you should set the output on your Oppo to YCbCr for better color rendition than you'll get with RGB, I see nothing odd here.


[YCbCr is what comes off the DVD discs, and it is the standard format for HDMI connections.]


I'll have to ponder this some more, but this really looks like a problem Anthem is going to have to tackle.

--Bob


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DC,
> 
> OK, except that you should set the output on your Oppo to YCbCr for better color rendition than you'll get with RGB, I see nothing odd here.
> 
> 
> [YCbCr is what comes off the DVD discs, and it is the standard format for HDMI connections.]
> 
> 
> I'll have to ponder this some more, but this really looks like a problem Anthem is going to have to tackle.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the heads up on the YCbCr thing. Strange though because I had the 970 set to Auto on the Color Space menu










dc


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Roomraider,
> 
> Set the H20 to "native" output resolution so that it automatically passes along 480i, 720p, or 1080i according to what's coming in on each channel at the moment.
> 
> 
> Set the H20 to expect a 16:9 TV, and set it to *NOT* generate pillar box bars either side of 4:3 content coming in on SDTV channels. Let the Anthem generate the pillar box bars as you desire by setting either Anamorphic (no bars) or Letter/Pillar Box in the Anthem's "Scale Output" setting for that input. This menu will be found as part of the Video Source Adjust menus by pressing and holding the "7" key on the Anthem remote while watching that input (as opposed to the Setup configuration menu).
> 
> 
> You may find it best to set the Anthem's input setup for the H20 to HDMI Repeater = NO. This is in the Anthem's Setup / Source Selection menu.
> 
> 
> Set the H20's digital audio to send out a "bitstream" instead of PCM. That will cure your lack of multi-channel audio on channels that are broadcasting that way.
> 
> 
> If you find you are getting an annoying extra delay before audio starts when you change channels, you will likely find it better to run an optical audio cable from the H20 to the Anthem and set the Anthem to receive audio from that input instead of the HDMI cable. Again the H20 should be sending out the digital "bitstream" instead of PCM.
> 
> 
> You'll have to describe what other problems you are having. There are quite a few people using that box with these Anthems so it shouldn't be hard to set you straight.
> 
> --Bob



The H-20 has no option to disable pillar box, the only options are: stretch, pillar & crop.

The only audio options are: Dolby Digital & OFF/PCM, I'm assuming Dolby Digital to be Bitstream but there is no change, maybe the HDMI interface is an older version & not capable, @ any rate I'll just use your latter suggestion & use the optical interface for audio.


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The H-20 has no option to disable pillar box, the only options are: stretch, pillar & crop.
> 
> The only audio options are: Dolby Digital & OFF/PCM, I'm assuming Dolby Digital to be Bitstream but there is no change, maybe the HDMI interface is an older version & not capable, @ any rate I'll just use your latter suggestion & use the optical interface for audio.



The stretch mode effectively is a "pillar box off" button. However, this only works on 480i programming. You can not disable the pillar box if it is an SD show on an HD channel (as the show is actually broadcast at 720p/1080i w/ pillar box).


This prompts my question:


If you set your H20 or HR20 to output native format, can the AVM50 determine the program resolution and decide to add or not add pillar boxing based on the users preference? For example:


For 720p/1080i programming, I don't want the AVM50 to pillar box

FOr 480i programming I do want the AVM50 to add a pillar box


Can this be set up to do that automatically without any user intervention each time the channel is changed?


Thank you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The H-20 has no option to disable pillar box, the only options are: stretch, pillar & crop.
> 
> The only audio options are: Dolby Digital & OFF/PCM, I'm assuming Dolby Digital to be Bitstream but there is no change, maybe the HDMI interface is an older version & not capable, @ any rate I'll just use your latter suggestion & use the optical interface for audio.



You want "Stretch" which actually does nothing to the 4:3 content so it appears stretched but actually the pixels are just being interpreted as "fatter", and you want "Dolby Digital" for the audio.


Understand that not all channels will be broadcasting 5.1 audio. You'll get regular stereo broadcasts on most channels (just as if you had selected PCM), and some Dolby channels will only be sending Dolby 2.0.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The stretch mode effectively is a "pillar box off" button. However, this only works on 480i programming. You can not disable the pillar box if it is an SD show on an HD channel (as the show is actually broadcast at 720p/1080i w/ pillar box).
> 
> 
> This prompts my question:
> 
> 
> If you set your H20 or HR20 to output native format, can the AVM50 determine the program resolution and decide to add or not add pillar boxing based on the users preference? For example:
> 
> 
> For 720p/1080i programming, I don't want the AVM50 to pillar box
> 
> FOr 480i programming I do want the AVM50 to add a pillar box
> 
> 
> Can this be set up to do that automatically without any user intervention each time the channel is changed?
> 
> 
> Thank you.



KC,

The set top box can flag the content -- over HDMI -- as being 4:3 or 16:9. If you set the Anthem to Letter/Pillar Box, and if the set top box is flagging the content correctly over HDMI, then the Anthem will leave 16:9 content alone and wil automaticallyl pillar box 4:3 content just as you want.


This works, for example, with the Motorola HDMI boxes used by Comcast.


As you point out, 4:3 content embedded in a 16:9 frame, as with SDTV broadcasts coming in on an HDTV channel, will be pillar boxed by the source station. I believe if you set the Anthem's Crop Input to "4:3" it will extract the 4:3 content from the middle of that signal and then apply either the Anamorphic or Letter/Pillar Box setting as you have selected for Scale Output. I haven't actually tried this.


What I HAVE tried is the opposite: If you have a 16:9 movie coming in inside a 4:3 frame -- as with a wide screen movie broadcast on an SDTV channel -- setting the Anthem's Crop Input to 16:9 will extract the 16:9 content from the center of that 4:3 frame and only scale that portion of the image, and the result will be that the movie better fills the screen.

--Bob


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Xbox 360 with HD DVD Drive does not support HDMI output. Thus, it is not possible to take advantage of the latest codecs and output them via HDMI & LPCM. That's one thing that I liked about the PS3, which supports decoding the advanced codecs and outputs them via LPCM output (at this time, DTS-HD is not supported but is planned for a future firmware upgrade). The PS3 also supports HDMI v1.3 for future receivers/preamps that can decode the codecs. Although I like the ease of use and integration associated with a standalone DVD player, I decided (for now) to use a PS3 instead of a standalone blu-ray player. The PS3 is also a lot quieter than the Xbox 360 - I can't hear it from where I sit - my projector is louder, actually. None of the standalone blu-rays support (or have officially stated they will support via firmware upgrade) all the advanced codecs _AND_ also output 1080p/24. So, I decided to get the PS3. Only disadvantage is a bluetooth remote (can't program commands in a universal remote such as my Pronto, although there have been some workarounds), and the PS3 only supports 1080p/60. But, we can't have it all, and in the future, once there is a standalone player that supports all the features I want, then I would get it (and not feel bad since the PS3 is still good for games, though I don' t have any time for games...). See the following web pages:
> 
> 
> 1. Compares PS3 with Xbox 360 w/ HD-DVD add on:
> 
> http://www.highdefdigest.com/feature...x360addon.html
> 
> 
> 2. Compares PS3 with other standalone blu-ray players:
> 
> http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/hd-...c-players.html
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for getting a little off topic here, but lots of folks are just now adding high def DVD players to their Anthems....




You forgot to mention the best player now out, the second generation Toshiba HD A2, which is fully HDMI compliant and allows internet access via an ethernet adapter. I get mine Friday and will be hooking it up the Anthem AVM50 and MAC50, to go with my Optoma HD7100. I also just got the new HDMI Directv HD box accepting local HD satellite channels. Can't wait!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the heads up on the YCbCr thing. Strange though because I had the 970 set to Auto on the Color Space menu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dc



DC,

Pending further information from DRHankz, have you tried setting the Anthem to 1080p/48Hz output to your Pearl just to see if it works?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DC,
> 
> Pending further information from DRHankz, have you tried setting the Anthem to 1080p/48Hz output to your Pearl just to see if it works?
> 
> --Bob



You do have to use LIVE EDIT - Custom Output Setting to get the 1080p48.


----------



## drhankz

Santa Claus just notified us ----


Pioneer is Shipping their Blu-Ray Player EARLY





















!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You do have to use LIVE EDIT - Custom Output Setting to get the 1080p48.



Could you please post the complete set of Live Video Settings Editor custom settings you used to do this?


And again, when you say this is working perfectly, does that include proper handling of film based content from 480i/60Hz and 1080i/60Hz sources?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Could you please post the complete set of Live Video Settings Editor custom settings you used to do this?
> 
> 
> And again, when you say this is working perfectly, does that include proper handling of film based content from 480i/60Hz and 1080i/60Hz sources?
> 
> --Bob



I don't KNOW BOB - I spent Hours and Hours

TESTING and Tweaking to come up with these

TRICK settings. I'm not sure I should

share them in an OPEN FORUM [GRIN]!


1) I clicked on Advanced Video Settings


2) I clicked on Custom Output Resolution.


3) I clicked on LOAD Standard


4) Scrolled down to SELECT 1080p48


5) Clicked on Advanced Video Settings


6) Checked the Box for Custom Output Resolution


7) Click on the UPLOAD button.


8) Now go into the Video out MENU in the D2 - Menu # 8 and SELECT CUSTOM.


ALL DONE - NOW you have my Settings





















.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drhankz,

Cool! I thought you might still be futzing with the blanking interval stuff.


So OK, if this stuff works in a Ruby, why shouldn't it also work in a Pearl?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz,
> 
> Cool! I thought you might still be futzing with the blanking interval stuff.
> 
> 
> So OK, if this stuff works in a Ruby, why shouldn't it also work in a Pearl?
> 
> --Bob



Every brand of ointment has their own FLIES [GRIN]!


It should work in the PEARL even BETTER.


I'm clueless why it doesn't.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Every brand of ointment has their own FLIES [GRIN]!
> 
> 
> It should work in the PEARL even BETTER.
> 
> 
> I'm clueless why it doesn't.



Well OK, I guess we need to get one of our intrepid Pearl owners to just try it.


DC? SFIELD? Try using Live Video Settings Editor to set Anthem's pre-defined 1080p/48Hz HDMI output to the Pearl -- without any customization of that setting.


It might just work.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well OK, I guess we need to get one of our intrepid Pearl owners to just try it.
> 
> 
> DC? SFIELD? Try using Live Video Settings Editor to set Anthem's pre-defined 1080p/48Hz HDMI output to the Pearl -- without any customization of that setting.
> 
> 
> It might just work.
> 
> --Bob



If that doesn't work - they can ship their *DEFECTIVE*

Pearl to me or *you* for that fact [GRIN]!


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well OK, I guess we need to get one of our intrepid Pearl owners to just try it.
> 
> 
> DC? SFIELD? Try using Live Video Settings Editor to set Anthem's pre-defined 1080p/48Hz HDMI output to the Pearl -- without any customization of that setting.
> 
> 
> It might just work.
> 
> --Bob



OK, I'm giving it a shot, btw drhankz nice job of describing setting custom video procedure, even I got it done. Or at least I think I did. Have you noticed when you go to check the video INFO setting within the D2 it shows NA or Unknown Format?

Also when I check the Pearl for what signal it's receiving it says 1080/50p?

Stuttering is still there







but maybe not as bad? It's late, I'm tired maybe it's eye strain, off to bed for me. I'll give it a good look see tomorrow.


dc


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, I'm giving it a shot, btw drhankz nice job of describing setting custom video procedure, even I got it done. Or at least I think I did. Have you noticed when you go to check the video INFO setting within the D2 it shows NA or Unknown Format?
> 
> Also when I check the Pearl for what signal it's receiving it says 1080/50p?
> 
> Stuttering is still there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but maybe not as bad? It's late, I'm tired maybe it's eye strain, off to bed for me. I'll give it a good look see tomorrow.
> 
> 
> dc



I did not check what the D2 says for Video.


The RUBY Info certainly shows 1080p/48 - NOT 50.


----------



## bluemark81

Bob......or anyone else:


I have noticed that fine detail on images such as houndstooth patterns or white picket fences and similar type details appear to have somewhat of an oily appearance when the camera moves quickly by them. When I say oily, the straight line detail gets squiggly or looses it's edge. I never noticed this before I had the AVM50. Seems to be more prominent in HD programming than DVD's. Do you have any ideas as to what might be causing this? I appologize if I don't know the proper terms to describe what I am seeing.


Thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

bluemark81,

Remind me what source you are using when you see this and at what resolution (input and output). Also remind me what type of display you have. This sounds like it might be compression related artifacts. Some sources, like DirecTV over-compress their broadcasts which means they don't transmit enough bits of information to fully represent fine detail. [Basically they are trying to cram too many channels into their available bandwidth.] The lack of bits is usually most noticeable in rapid movement. Usually this shows up as an appearance of "blockiness" in the image, but misrepresentation of edge detail is another symptom.


If that's what's going on there's not much you can do about it except switching to a different provider. Unfortunately better imaging elsewhere in your system makes such defects more noticeable.


----------------------------


It could also be that you have things set so that your source device is doing either de-interlacing or scaling instead of leaving it to the Anthem to do this. These could also be de-interlacing defects. Scaling requires de-interlacing so if the source is doing any scaling then it is also de-interlacing.


--------------------------


Another possibility is that you have Sharpness (vertical edge enhancement) turned up too high on your display. The "haloing" this causes around vertical edges can cause "moire" artifacts in rapid motion.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Are there any D2/AVM50 users out there with Pioneer plasmas that can accept 1080p/24Hz and display it at 72Hz (via the "advanced" cinema setting)? Even if your display scales that to 768p/72Hz your input would be useful on this Anthem 24Hz issue. I.e., trying to determine whether or not the Anthem does the right thing converting 1080i/60Hz film-based input to 1080p/24Hz output.


Anyone with the new Pioneer FHD-1 plasma should also, I believe, be able to set it to accept 1080p/24Hz and display that as 1080p/72Hz.

--Bob


----------



## suthrn

I just took delivery of my D2 and am in the process of trying to get everything set-up. I would like to apologize in advance for all my dumb questions. My first one, however, is how do I know if I am getting TrueHD from my HD-DVD player? I have it hooked up via HDMI but I am not sure what setting it should be at or what to be looking for on the display. Thanks and wish me luck. This is definitely more than I bargained for.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> bluemark81,
> 
> Remind me what source you are using when you see this and at what resolution (input and output). Also remind me what type of display you have. This sounds like it might be compression related artifacts. Some sources, like DirecTV over-compress their broadcasts which means they don't transmit enough bits of information to fully represent fine detail. [Basically they are trying to cram too many channels into their available bandwidth.] The lack of bits is usually most noticeable in rapid movement. Usually this shows up as an appearance of "blockiness" in the image, but misrepresentation of edge detail is another symptom.
> 
> 
> If that's what's going on there's not much you can do about it except switching to a different provider. Unfortunately better imaging elsewhere in your system makes such defects more noticeable.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------
> 
> 
> It could also be that you have things set so that your source device is doing either de-interlacing or scaling instead of leaving it to the Anthem to do this. These could also be de-interlacing defects. Scaling requires de-interlacing so if the source is doing any scaling then it is also de-interlacing.
> 
> 
> --------------------------
> 
> 
> Another possibility is that you have Sharpness (vertical edge enhancement) turned up too high on your display. The "haloing" this causes around vertical edges can cause "moire" artifacts in rapid motion.
> 
> --Bob




Bob:


I am using Bell Expressvu's 9200 receiver (Canadian version of Dishnets 622 I think). I have it's output set to 720p and my AVM set to 1080i. My display is a Toshiba 51HX83 rear projection CRT. I have the sharpness of my display turned to 50 which is the setting for movies as recommended by you in an earlier discussion. I have tried turning it lower and turning the detail enhance level on the AVM higher, but this did not provide good results. Currently, the AVM detail is set to 15 for my satellite input. I've played around with this a bit and this setting in combination with the 50 setting on my display seems to provide the best results. I've heard about providers cramming too much information, so perhaps that is what is causing it especially where I don't think I've noticed it while playing DVD's. It just seems odd that I never noticed it prior to getting the AVM. What is kind of reminds me of as well is a slow refresh rate on a fixed pixel display. I'm not sure if that makes sense or not.


I also used Digital Video Essentials and Monster Cables ISF calibration disk in an attempt to set things up properly.


Because some of the networks broadcast in 720p and others in 1080i, I chose to set my satellite recivers output at 720p. I suppose it is 6 for one and half dozen for the other in this case unless you think setting it at 1080i is my better option?


Thanks,


ps, I know the display is capable of stunning pictures, especially evident while watching DVD's so it should be able to produce at least equal quality pictures through HD. (Unless, like you say it is due to the provider)


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suthrn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just took delivery of my D2 and am in the process of trying to get everything set-up. I would like to apologize in advance for all my dumb questions. My first one, however, is how do I know if I am getting TrueHD from my HD-DVD player? I have it hooked up via HDMI but I am not sure what setting it should be at or what to be looking for on the display. Thanks and wish me luck. This is definitely more than I bargained for.



On the D2 you should see Audio Input either 6 ch 48kHz or 6ch 96 kHz....


On the A1/A2, you should hit info and it will tell you what audio track is playing... You must select TureHD in either the disc menu or by pressing the Audio button on the HD DVD remote.


----------



## suthrn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On the D2 you should see Audio Input either 6 ch 48kHz or 6ch 96 kHz....
> 
> 
> On the A1/A2, you should hit info and it will tell you what audio track is playing... You must select TureHD in either the disc menu or by pressing the Audio button on the HD DVD remote.



I set the A2 to output T-HD but is there a setting or something in the D2 to be made so it isn't doing any of it's own processing? I know on my old receiver I set it to external decoder but I don't know what to tell the D2. Thanks.


----------



## goenkar

I finally got my second Anthem AVM50 for the basement. I have a Runco CL-710 fed over DVI. I have been able to feed the projector DVI signal from my Brighthouse networks cable box just fine.


I cannot get the Anthem to display over HDMI-DVI. The native resolution of the Runco is 1280x720. However it appears to receive [email protected]


I have selected [email protected] in the Anthem but no go. I tried custom resolutions as described by drhankz picking standard 720p. It appeared to work and I got a picture but with sparklies. Then it stopped working.


I tried sending 720p again as a custom resolution again even though its a standard res and it does not want to work.


Any ideas what could be going on ? I have HDMI/DVI working fine with my other uint going to a Hitachi RPTV. Never had any issues with it.


Why does it get a different resolution then one I am sending ?


Thanks


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suthrn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I set the A2 to output T-HD but is there a setting or something in the D2 to be made so it isn't doing any of it's own processing? I know on my old receiver I set it to external decoder but I don't know what to tell the D2. Thanks.



In the D2 setup menu for the input you are using for the A2, set 6-ch to NONE.

That way no further processing will take place within the D2.


dc


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I am using Bell Expressvu's 9200 receiver (Canadian version of Dishnets 622 I think). I have it's output set to 720p and my AVM set to 1080i. My display is a Toshiba 51HX83 rear projection CRT. I have the sharpness of my display turned to 50 which is the setting for movies as recommended by you in an earlier discussion. I have tried turning it lower and turning the detail enhance level on the AVM higher, but this did not provide good results. Currently, the AVM detail is set to 15 for my satellite input. I've played around with this a bit and this setting in combination with the 50 setting on my display seems to provide the best results. I've heard about providers cramming too much information, so perhaps that is what is causing it especially where I don't think I've noticed it while playing DVD's. It just seems odd that I never noticed it prior to getting the AVM. What is kind of reminds me of as well is a slow refresh rate on a fixed pixel display. I'm not sure if that makes sense or not.
> 
> 
> I also used Digital Video Essentials and Monster Cables ISF calibration disk in an attempt to set things up properly.
> 
> 
> Because some of the networks broadcast in 720p and others in 1080i, I chose to set my satellite recivers output at 720p. I suppose it is 6 for one and half dozen for the other in this case unless you think setting it at 1080i is my better option?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> ps, I know the display is capable of stunning pictures, especially evident while watching DVD's so it should be able to produce at least equal quality pictures through HD. (Unless, like you say it is due to the provider)



Bluemark81,

If your satellite receiver is not able to switch output resolutions automatically according to what's coming in on each channel, my recommendation would be that you set it to 1080i output. Most HDTV is 1080i and you want the receiver to do as little as possible to the signal before passing it to the Anthem, so selecting 1080i output means you get your "best" viewing on 1080i HDTV channels.


If your satellite receiver allows for an easy manual switch of resolutions while watching, then the ideal would be for you to change its output to 480i when watching SDTV channels, and to 720p when watching those few channels that broadcast HDTV in 720p -- generally for sports programming, and then back to 1080i for other HDTV.


If your receiver can't be set to send 480i to the Anthem for SDTV, then using 480p is better for SDTV than using either 720p or 1080i. That means the receiver will be doing the de-interlacing -- probably not all that well -- but it won't be doing any scaling.


The de-interlacers in these boxes are generally pretty bad, and the scalers downright awful.


---------------------------------------------------


Dish does not bit-starve its HDTV to the degree that DirecTV does, but it still does to some degree. So you WILL see some artifacts when there is high motion since the video compression scheme used to encode these images isn't being given enough bits to handle all the changes. However I suspect that setting the receiver to 720p as you've done, and thus forcing it to scale 1080i HDTV channels down to 720p, may be causing even more problems for you.


---------------------------------------------------


In addition I suspect your Sharpness and Detail Enhance settings are still too high.


My recommendation would be that you turn Detail Enhance in the Anthem all the way down to 0 -- its factory default setting. While you are at it, any detail enhance or sharpness setting in your DVD player should also be turned OFF.


Now first make sure your Brightness and Contrast are reasonably set. If they are not perfect that's not a problem, but if they are way off, setting Sharpness properly will be difficult. Contrast too high, for example, can cause "blooming" of whites which will screw up the appearance of the contrasty edges you need to look at when adjusting Sharpness on your TV.


Also make sure any "SVM" or "Velocity Modulation" feature on your TV is turned OFF. SVM will cause vertical black and white lines to not have the same width. Leave SVM off permanently. It is an abomination.


Then also turn Sharpness ALL the way down on your TV. Now go to your calibration DVD's sharpness setting test chart and rapidly run Sharpness up and down on your TV. What you are looking for is white halos on either side of isolated vertical black lines in the pattern. Sometimes it is easier to see the halos at the ends of horizontal black lines. Keep running Sharpness up and down on your TV until you begin to see and recognize these halos. Do not worry at this point about the lines appearing fuzzy when you run Sharpness all the way down. Just look for those halos until you are confident you know what I mean by them.


[Note: If your DVD calibration disc test chart has kind of a zebra stripe pattern of repeated vertical black and white lines in some portion, along with instructions to adjust Sharpness to even out that pattern all the way from the wider to the thinner lines, JUST IGNORE THAT FOR NOW! Find vertical black lines that are isolated away from other stuff so that you see just that line against the gray background. Concentrate on those isolated, vertical black lines exclusively.]


Once you have learned to recognize the halos, now turn Sharpness all the way down again and then SLOWLY raise it. What you want to do is sharpen up the fuzzy vertical lines in the test chart but without even the SLIGHTEST HINT of the halos re-appearing. Record the setting you think is right.


Now run Sharpness up and down rapidly again until you feel comfortable again that you know what the halos look like when they are present, and then set Sharpness ABOVE the point where halos are clearly present and SLOWLY lower Sharpness until the halos COMPLETELY disappear. Compare your result coming up from below with your result coming down from above. Iterate a bit until you are comfortable that you have found the one, best Sharpness setting in your TV where the vertical lines are as sharp as possible without even the slightest hint of halo showing.


That's the correct Sharpness setting. Typically that will be in the lower third of the range of Sharpness settings offered by your TV. For some TVs, the correct Sharpness setting may be almost all the way down.


Again, all this should be done with the Anthem's Detail Enhance turned all the way down to 0. Leave it at 0. You should not need to use this Anthem adjustment with a display device (like your TV) that has its own adjustment.


-------------------------------------------------------------


The resulting image may appear too soft at first. Give yourself time to get used to it.


That said, I think the big win for you will be changing your satellite box to 1080i output for most of your HDTV watching.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I finally got my second Anthem AVM50 for the basement. I have a Runco CL-710 fed over DVI. I have been able to feed the projector DVI signal from my Brighthouse networks cable box just fine.
> 
> 
> I cannot get the Anthem to display over HDMI-DVI. The native resolution of the Runco is 1280x720. However it appears to receive [email protected]
> 
> 
> I have selected [email protected] in the Anthem but no go. I tried custom resolutions as described by drhankz picking standard 720p. It appeared to work and I got a picture but with sparklies. Then it stopped working.
> 
> 
> I tried sending 720p again as a custom resolution again even though its a standard res and it does not want to work.
> 
> 
> Any ideas what could be going on ? I have HDMI/DVI working fine with my other uint going to a Hitachi RPTV. Never had any issues with it.
> 
> 
> Why does it get a different resolution then one I am sending ?
> 
> 
> Thanks



goenkar,

The fact that you got an image with sparklies at one point implies to me that you are having HDMI to DVI cable problems -- possibly too long a cable run for the quality of cable you are using.


Try sending 480p to the Runco as a test (presuming it can accept that as input). That puts less stress on the cable. Also try re-positioning the Anthem temporarily so that you can use a short HDMI-DVI cable to the Runco.


You'll need to double check your Runco documentation for what signals it can actually accept over DVI. It may also have a setting that needs to be set for "TV" or "Set top box" as opposed to "PC" or "computer" for that DVI input.


Also set the output color format for the Anthem to RGB in Setup / Video Output -- since that's what a DVI connection will want.


Finally try toggling the HDMI Sync setting in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu.

--Bob


----------



## suthrn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In the D2 setup menu for the input you are using for the A2, set 6-ch to NONE.
> 
> That way no further processing will take place within the D2.
> 
> 
> dc



I did that. Thanks. But I don't see any 48khz or 96khz in the display. Maybe I am not hitting the right button. It just says 5.1.


----------



## goenkar

Bob,


Thanks. I will have to try with a shorter cable, unfortunately the projector end is not easily accessible.


The runco will not accept 480p over DVI. When I send a custom res of 720p it briefly shows that its receiving the correct res. then it switches out to the 1360x765 one.


Do you think the cable length could affect the resolution received ? I have not had problems with a crappy cable box.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks. I will have to try with a shorter cable, unfortunately the projector end is not easily accessible.
> 
> 
> The runco will not accept 480p over DVI. When I send a custom res of 720p it briefly shows that its receiving the correct res. then it switches out to the 1360x765 one.
> 
> 
> Do you think the cable length could affect the resolution received ? I have not had problems with a crappy cable box.



Try changing the Anthem "Sync" setting first.


If the cable is too long, the handshake may be failing. During the handshake the two devices offer suggested resolutions to each other.

--Bob


----------



## goenkar

BTW,


If I connect the PS3 to the projector it works over the same cable.


I suspect it may be an incompatibility with the Anthem and the projector. Will have to contact support and see if they have any suggestions.


Meanwhile I will try any other suggestions.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bluemark81,
> 
> If your satellite receiver is not able to switch output resolutions automatically according to what's coming in on each channel, my recommendation would be that you set it to 1080i output. Most HDTV is 1080i and you want the receiver to do as little as possible to the signal before passing it to the Anthem, so selecting 1080i output means you get your "best" viewing on 1080i HDTV channels.
> 
> 
> If your satellite receiver allows for an easy manual switch of resolutions while watching, then the ideal would be for you to change its output to 480i when watching SDTV channels, and to 720p when watching those few channels that broadcast HDTV in 720p -- generally for sports programming, and then back to 1080i for other HDTV.
> 
> 
> If your receiver can't be set to send 480i to the Anthem for SDTV, then using 480p is better for SDTV than using either 720p or 1080i. That means the receiver will be doing the de-interlacing -- probably not all that well -- but it won't be doing any scaling.
> 
> 
> The de-interlacers in these boxes are generally pretty bad, and the scalers downright awful.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Dish does not bit-starve its HDTV to the degree that DirecTV does, but it still does to some degree. So you WILL see some artifacts when there is high motion since the video compression scheme used to encode these images isn't being given enough bits to handle all the changes. However I suspect that setting the receiver to 720p as you've done, and thus forcing it to scale 1080i HDTV channels down to 720p, may be causing even more problems for you.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In addition I suspect your Sharpness and Detail Enhance settings are still too high.
> 
> 
> My recommendation would be that you turn Detail Enhance in the Anthem all the way down to 0 -- its factory default setting. While you are at it, any detail enhance or sharpness setting in your DVD player should also be turned OFF.
> 
> 
> Now first make sure your Brightness and Contrast are reasonably set. If they are not perfect that's not a problem, but if they are way off, setting Sharpness properly will be difficult. Contrast too high, for example, can cause "blooming" of whites which will screw up the appearance of the contrasty edges you need to look at when adjusting Sharpness on your TV.
> 
> 
> Also make sure any "SVM" or "Velocity Modulation" feature on your TV is turned OFF. SVM will cause vertical black and white lines to not have the same width. Leave SVM off permanently. It is an abomination.
> 
> 
> Then also turn Sharpness ALL the way down on your TV. Now go to your calibration DVD's sharpness setting test chart and rapidly run Sharpness up and down on your TV. What you are looking for is white halos on either side of isolated vertical black lines in the pattern. Sometimes it is easier to see the halos at the ends of horizontal black lines. Keep running Sharpness up and down on your TV until you begin to see and recognize these halos. Do not worry at this point about the lines appearing fuzzy when you run Sharpness all the way down. Just look for those halos until you are confident you know what I mean by them.
> 
> 
> [Note: If your DVD calibration disc test chart has kind of a zebra stripe pattern of repeated vertical black and white lines in some portion, along with instructions to adjust Sharpness to even out that pattern all the way from the wider to the thinner lines, JUST IGNORE THAT FOR NOW! Find vertical black lines that are isolated away from other stuff so that you see just that line against the gray background. Concentrate on those isolated, vertical black lines exclusively.]
> 
> 
> Once you have learned to recognize the halos, now turn Sharpness all the way down again and then SLOWLY raise it. What you want to do is sharpen up the fuzzy vertical lines in the test chart but without even the SLIGHTEST HINT of the halos re-appearing. Record the setting you think is right.
> 
> 
> Now run Sharpness up and down rapidly again until you feel comfortable again that you know what the halos look like when they are present, and then set Sharpness ABOVE the point where halos are clearly present and SLOWLY lower Sharpness until the halos COMPLETELY disappear. Compare your result coming up from below with your result coming down from above. Iterate a bit until you are comfortable that you have found the one, best Sharpness setting in your TV where the vertical lines are as sharp as possible without even the slightest hint of halo showing.
> 
> 
> That's the correct Sharpness setting. Typically that will be in the lower third of the range of Sharpness settings offered by your TV. For some TVs, the correct Sharpness setting may be almost all the way down.
> 
> 
> Again, all this should be done with the Anthem's Detail Enhance turned all the way down to 0. Leave it at 0. You should not need to use this Anthem adjustment with a display device (like your TV) that has its own adjustment.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The resulting image may appear too soft at first. Give yourself time to get used to it.
> 
> 
> That said, I think the big win for you will be changing your satellite box to 1080i output for most of your HDTV watching.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


First thing I tried was changing the setting on my Sat receiver from 720p to 1080i and the whole TV picture goes scrambled when I do this. If I try switching the TV input over to component which is fed from the sat receiver directly to the TV, the picture is fine, but when switched back to DVI which feeds through the Anthem, it scrambles again.


I also tried shutting everything off and back on thinking this may reset something, but no luck in doing that either.


What do you figure is doing this?


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suthrn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did that. Thanks. But I don't see any 48khz or 96khz in the display. Maybe I am not hitting the right button. It just says 5.1.



5.1 is what you want to see.

To check all other parameters just hit the select button on the remote until you get to the info you want to see.


dc


----------



## rhrhodes

Santa Claus has arrived early







I picked up my AVM50 and PVA5 amplifier from my dealer today. I haven't yet had a chance to play with video settings, but the audio quality on music is incredible. I upgraded from a Denon 3805, and I was nervous about how much of an improvement there would be, but it was well worth the upgrade. There's so much more detail and depth to the music. I'm planning on watching The Perfect Storm on HD-DVD tonight because it is one of the few discs I have with a TrueHD soundtrack. The Anthem will setup to convert 1080i/60 from the A1 to 1080p/24 into my Elite FHD-1 plasma. Yippee, I can't wait, I'm like a kid in a toy store.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> First thing I tried was changing the setting on my Sat receiver from 720p to 1080i and the whole TV picture goes scrambled when I do this. If I try switching the TV input over to component which is fed from the sat receiver directly to the TV, the picture is fine, but when switched back to DVI which feeds through the Anthem, it scrambles again.
> 
> 
> I also tried shutting everything off and back on thinking this may reset something, but no luck in doing that either.
> 
> 
> What do you figure is doing this?



That's very odd. If you can get DVI to HDMI 720p input working you should be able to get DVI to HDMI 1080i input working no problem at all! They're essentially the same bandwidth of signal.


What Anthem software version are you using now? It's at least V1.06, right?


The only thing I can think of is that you've got a bad or confused DVI on your sat box. Try power cyling the sat box, the anthem and the TV once each to see if that get's things going again.


-----------------------------------------------------------------


With my Comcast/Motorola box I had a problem some time back where changing HDTV resolutions caused the HDMI input on the Anthem to lock up in a strange state. It even confused HDMI to the Anthem from other devices. It turns out that was fixed (with V1.06 software) by switching to a better grade of HDMI cable from the Comcast box.

--Bob


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Try changing the Anthem "Sync" setting first.
> 
> 
> If the cable is too long, the handshake may be failing. During the handshake the two devices offer suggested resolutions to each other.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Tried that. No luck. Do you think Anthem could provide a custom resolution to fix it or would it be a firmware affair.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Santa Claus has arrived early
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I picked up my AVM50 and PVA5 amplifier from my dealer today. I haven't yet had a chance to play with video settings, but the audio quality on music is incredible. I upgraded from a Denon 3805, and I was nervous about how much of an improvement there would be, but it was well worth the upgrade. There's so much more detail and depth to the music. I'm planning on watching The Perfect Storm on HD-DVD tonight because it is one of the few discs I have with a TrueHD soundtrack. The Anthem will setup to convert 1080i/60 from the A1 to 1080p/24 into my Elite FHD-1 plasma. Yippee, I can't wait, I'm like a kid in a toy store.



Men v. boys -- size of toys. Yup, that checks.

(grin!)


I'm very interested to hear how things go with /24Hz into your FHD-1. If I understand it correctly you will also need to turn on the "advanced" cinema mode in the Pioneer to enable the 72Hz refresh rate.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Tried that. No luck. Do you think Anthem could provide a custom resolution to fix it or would it be a firmware affair.



This is very strange. The Runco should have no problem accepting the standard 720p or 1080i HDTV signals. I mean they aren't expecting every owner to have an external scaler. The PS3 and your cable box aren't putting out anything different from what the Anthem is supposed to put out for those standard resolutions.


If you really need a custom resolution/timing setup, the stuff offered in V1.10 (or higher) via Live Video Settings Editor will give you all you need.


But I'd concentrate on figuring out why the STANDARD 720p or 1080i, the one you get from the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu, isn't working.


You may have a faulty Anthem. Do you have another HDMI or DVI TV that you'd feel comfortable hooking the new Anthem up to to make sure it's HDMI output is working at all?

--Bob


----------



## goenkar

Bob,


I have 2 Anthems AVM-50's. I tried the other one and it does the same thing. I guess I should have tested before I ordered the second one, did not expect this.


The HDMI output works when I connect it to my RPTV


What gets me is why the projector sees a different resolution instead of what I am sending.


----------



## suthrn

Sorry guys but I have another newbie? I have tried a bunch of times to get this macro thing setup but I can't figure it out. I am wanting to turn on my D2, TV, and cable box all at once. I have the codes set in to do all this as long as I hit each source and then the power button but I would like to hit power and they all come on/off. I have read the manual but I am obviously missing something here. Any help, thanks.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's very odd. If you can get DVI to HDMI 720p input working you should be able to get DVI to HDMI 1080i input working no problem at all! They're essentially the same bandwidth of signal.
> 
> 
> What Anthem software version are you using now? It's at least V1.06, right?
> 
> 
> The only thing I can think of is that you've got a bad or confused DVI on your sat box. Try power cyling the sat box, the anthem and the TV once each to see if that get's things going again.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> With my Comcast/Motorola box I had a problem some time back where changing HDTV resolutions caused the HDMI input on the Anthem to lock up in a strange state. It even confused HDMI to the Anthem from other devices. It turns out that was fixed (with V1.06 software) by switching to a better grade of HDMI cable from the Comcast box.
> 
> --Bob




Bob:


I am running V1.10 software. It actually did it when I tried switching back to the DVI thru the Anthem when the Sat receiver was switched back to 720p. However, when I turned it off and back on, the signal came back ok. Still no luck with the 1080i though. It's odd because when I first got the Anthem piece, I did have the Sat set to 1080i because I was running directly into the TV before getting the Anthem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

goenkar,

Let's try some basics.


Turn off the Runco and the Anthem.


Hook up your new AVM-50 to the Runco HDMI to DVI cable, but DO NOT make any other connections to the AVM-50. No source devices, and no audio outputs or other video outputs or triggers, or etc. Also, if you can, disconnect any other things that might be plugged into the Runco. You can disconnect these at the far end if the Runco end itself is not easy to get to. I want to eliminate the possiblity that any other device might be forming a ground loop that's passing current over the cable shields and confusing either the Anthem or the Runco.


********************

Turn on the Anthem and go into the Setup menu and do a Restore Factory Defaults. By the way, what version of software is installed?

********************


Using the Anthem's front panel display, go to Setup / Video Output and select:


S-Video OSD = NTSC

Preferred = HDMI

Resolution = 1280x720p/60

Color Space = HDTV

Data Format = RGB


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I am running V1.10 software. It actually did it when I tried switching back to the DVI thru the Anthem when the Sat receiver was switched back to 720p. However, when I turned it off and back on, the signal came back ok. Still no luck with the 1080i though. It's odd because when I first got the Anthem piece, I did have the Sat set to 1080i because I was running directly into the TV before getting the Anthem.



Bluemark81,

Make sure both ends of your DVI to HDMI cable are fully inserted. If you spot no problem there I'd suggest you try buying a high end DVI to HDMI cable from a place where you can return it for refund if that doesn't fix the problem. You could also try carefully switching the cable to a different HDMI input on the Anthem since each socket will likely have slightly different connection quality. But even if a new input appears to fix it, the fact that it is marginal probably means you'd be better off with a higher quality DVI to HDMI cable.


I'm afraid some of the cable and sat boxes out there have really REALLY bad HDMI and DVI outputs.


I don't know if you own your sat box or rent it. If you rent it, you may want to try replacing it with a new one, preferably with an HDMI output instead of DVI.


Again, there's no good reason why 1080i input shouldn't work given that 720p input works.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suthrn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry guys but I have another newbie? I have tried a bunch of times to get this macro thing setup but I can't figure it out. I am wanting to turn on my D2, TV, and cable box all at once. I have the codes set in to do all this as long as I hit each source and then the power button but I would like to hit power and they all come on/off. I have read the manual but I am obviously missing something here. Any help, thanks.



I presume you are trying to program the Macro into the Anthem's own remote control as opposed to some other remote, right? OK the procedure is on page 67 of the Anthem V1.1x manual.


What specific sequence of remote key presses did you try to program in?

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bluemark81,
> 
> Make sure both ends of your DVI to HDMI cable are fully inserted. If you spot no problem there I'd suggest you try buying a high end DVI to HDMI cable from a place where you can return it for refund if that doesn't fix the problem. You could also try carefully switching the cable to a different HDMI input on the Anthem since each socket will likely have slightly different connection quality. But even if a new input appears to fix it, the fact that it is marginal probably means you'd be better off with a higher quality DVI to HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> I'm afraid some of the cable and sat boxes out there have really REALLY bad HDMI and DVI outputs.
> 
> 
> I don't know if you own your sat box or rent it. If you rent it, you may want to try replacing it with a new one, preferably with an HDMI output instead of DVI.
> 
> 
> Again, there's no good reason why 1080i input shouldn't work given that 720p input works.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I just made a very peculiar discovery.


First, I tried switching cables. That made no difference.


Then, while the sat receiver was set to 1080i output, I tried switchig to my DVD player which is set to 480i. The signal to it was also scrambled. So, I switched the sat receiver back to 720p, and checked the picture through the DVD player and all is ok. I tried this again because this makes absolutely no sense to me, and same results. So, if sat receiver is set to 1080i, the Anthem not only screws up the satellite signal, somehow, it also screws up the DVD signal. I think I'm going to have to get ahold of Nick at Anthem for this one, unless you have some idea as to what is happening here.


----------



## suthrn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I presume you are trying to program the Macro into the Anthem's own remote control as opposed to some other remote, right? OK the procedure is on page 67 of the Anthem V1.1x manual.
> 
> 
> What specific sequence of remote key presses did you try to program in?
> 
> --Bob



I get through Step 1 *LEARN*, and Step 2 *9,9,5* just fine and then I press the POWER button Step 3(thinking I want everything to turn on at the same time) but after that is where I guess I am messing up. I'm not sure what they mean by Command Sequence. After power I pressed tv and sat then hit learn again. I am trying to use the Anthems remote.


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Santa Claus has arrived early
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I picked up my AVM50 and PVA5 amplifier from my dealer today. I haven't yet had a chance to play with video settings, but the audio quality on music is incredible. I upgraded from a Denon 3805, and I was nervous about how much of an improvement there would be, but it was well worth the upgrade. There's so much more detail and depth to the music. I'm planning on watching The Perfect Storm on HD-DVD tonight because it is one of the few discs I have with a TrueHD soundtrack. The Anthem will setup to convert 1080i/60 from the A1 to 1080p/24 into my Elite FHD-1 plasma. Yippee, I can't wait, I'm like a kid in a toy store.



Oh you are not right! How cruel







Sure rub it in.


Just kidding of course. Congrats on getting the new units. I am so excited to hear the huge improvement. So did you have any kind of an amp running from the 3805 before, or just using the internal amp? I picked up an A5 when I got the 100's a few weeks back, but haven't just tried hooking the 100's straight to the 3805. Might have to do that.


Anyway only about a month or so till mine gets here. Keep us updated on how it goes!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I just made a very peculiar discovery.
> 
> 
> First, I tried switching cables. That made no difference.
> 
> 
> Then, while the sat receiver was set to 1080i output, I tried switchig to my DVD player which is set to 480i. The signal to it was also scrambled. So, I switched the sat receiver back to 720p, and checked the picture through the DVD player and all is ok. I tried this again because this makes absolutely no sense to me, and same results. So, if sat receiver is set to 1080i, the Anthem not only screws up the satellite signal, somehow, it also screws up the DVD signal. I think I'm going to have to get ahold of Nick at Anthem for this one, unless you have some idea as to what is happening here.



Bluemark,

This is *PRECISELY* the problem that was caused by my Comcast/Motorola cable TV HD/DVR under the V1.06 software. Somehow there is a type of HDMI confusion which causes the Anthem's HDMI processing to fail even with respect to other devices.


The fix, much to my surprise, was to replace the HDMI cable I had been using from the Comcast box to the Anthem with a high end HDMI cable -- in my case a Monster brand, Ultra 1000 model, 4 ft cable. Such cables are ridiculously expensive and SHOULDN'T make a difference over such short lengths. However apparently my Motorola box had such lousy HDMI driver circuits that the slight difference in signal loss between that expensive cable and the original cable made all the difference.


Again, in my case I am convinced that the real culprit here was a crappy implementation of HDMI in my Comcast/Motorola box.


---------------------------------------------------------


There is another alternative here you might want to consider. I kept pushing to find an HDMI solution for my Comcast box because I'm stubborn. But a Component video connection to the Anthem would have been a completely reasonable alternative solution.


So if you don't want to fight the HDMI stuff any further, consider running Component video and optical digital audio from your sat box to the Anthem. Set the sat box for 1080i output (for most HDTV viewing), and set the Anthem to pass that Component video input to the Anthem Scaler instead of the HDMI video input you are using now. You will still be able to use the HDMI output from the Anthem to your TV.


The best input level settings in the Anthem for Component in from the sat box may be different from those for HDMI in.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suthrn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I get through Step 1 *LEARN*, and Step 2 *9,9,5* just fine and then I press the POWER button Step 3(thinking I want everything to turn on at the same time) but after that is where I guess I am messing up. I'm not sure what they mean by Command Sequence. After power I pressed tv and sat then hit learn again. I am trying to use the Anthems remote.



OK, a macro is just a remembered sequence of remote control button presses.


So turn all your stuff off and start pressing buttons on the Anthem remote to turn everything back on. Record that sequence of button presses, because that exact sequence is what you want to teach the Anthem remote as your new macro.


First of all, you'll note that the Anthem remote doesn't do much of anything to your other devices until you have "programmed" the Anthem remote to use the correct remote control codes for each device.


So, for example, if the Anthem fails to turn on your cable box when you press the right buttons, it's probably because you haven't told it which cable box you have.


Next realize that the Anthem remote is a multi-device remote control. So when you press a button how does it know which device's remote control code it should transmit? Well you tell the remote which device you intend to control next by pressing the "Control Mode" button for that device at the top of the Anthem remote. Think of the Anthem remote as 6 remotes in one. You have to press the correct Control Mode button to tell the Anthem multi-device remote which style of remote control you want it to be for now. I.e., is it now a CD player remote, a TV remote, a VCR remote, or really an Anthem remote?


That is, if you want to power on your TV -- remember, only AFTER you have taught the Anthem remote *WHICH* TV you own -- you press the TV "Control Mode" button at the top of the Anthem remote and THEN you press the power button.


The Anthem remote continues controlling the last device you specified (by pressing a Control Mode button) until you press a different Control Mode button.


[EXCEPTION: You can force the Anthem remote to always send certain button presses to one device regardless of which Control Mode button you pressed last. So for example it could be set it to send Volume Up and Volume Down to the Anthem *EVEN THOUGH* you have pressed a Control Mode button for some other device.]


What if you want to control the Anthem itself? Well the Anthem has 3 DIFFERENT control mode buttons that select it -- one each for the Main signal path through the Anthem, the Zone 2 path, and the Zone 3 path.


So to record your macro you first need to teach the Anthem remote which devices you own. Then to record the power on macro you put the Anthem remote in the learning mode and press the sequence to power on each device in turn. Just remember that part of that sequence for each device is that you have to switch Control Mode by pressing the proper device button before you press the Power ON button to turn on that device.

--Bob


----------



## rhrhodes

OK, my movie enjoyment has been halted due to technical difficulties. I was having trouble getting my HD-A1 working with the AVM50, when I tried to play a disc, the player stopped and reported "HDMI Error" on the front display. I pulled my hair out trying 1080i/60, 1080p/24, and 1080p/60 output formats, and toggling the "HDMI Repeater = Yes/No" setting. Finally, I tried physically unplugging the player from HDM1 input 1 and plugging into HDMI input 2. Voila, it works on HDMI Input 2. Now I'm worried that I have a hardware problem with my unit that is preventing HDMI handshaking from working on input 1. I can view the setup menu and boot screen for the player on input 1, I just can't play a disc, so I have some signs of basic signal integrity. I remember reading some previous posts on this thread of other people having HDMI input trouble. Note that I received my unit with software 1.11 installed. Does anyone have any suggestions for settings to try, or do you think there's a problem with my AVM50? Luckily, I can still enjoy it for now







I have emailed Nick at Anthem.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, my movie enjoyment has been halted due to technical difficulties. I was having trouble getting my HD-A1 working with the AVM50, when I tried to play a disc, the player stopped and reported "HDMI Error" on the front display. I pulled my hair out trying 1080i/60, 1080p/24, and 1080p/60 output formats, and toggling the "HDMI Repeater = Yes/No" setting. Finally, I tried physically unplugging the player from HDM1 input 1 and plugging into HDMI input 2. Voila, it works on HDMI Input 2. Now I'm worried that I have a hardware problem with my unit that is preventing HDMI handshaking from working on input 1. I can view the setup menu and boot screen for the player on input 1, I just can't play a disc, so I have some signs of basic signal integrity. I remember reading some previous posts on this thread of other people having HDMI input trouble. Note that I received my unit with software 1.11 installed. Does anyone have any suggestions for settings to try, or do you think there's a problem with my AVM50? Luckily, I can still enjoy it for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have emailed Nick at Anthem.



I don't know what you are using for hdmi cables, but when I exchanged one cable out for another, this similar issue disappeared. You might also try reassigning sources to different hdmi inputs via the D2 software. And, lastly, I assume that you have v2.0 of the Toshiba software.


By the way, I understand that Nick is on vacation until December 27th. I am sure that somebody else from Anthem will reach out to you.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I have 2 Anthems AVM-50's. I tried the other one and it does the same thing. I guess I should have tested before I ordered the second one, did not expect this.
> 
> 
> The HDMI output works when I connect it to my RPTV
> 
> 
> What gets me is why the projector sees a different resolution instead of what I am sending.



My guess is the Runco is sending back the wrong EDID - if it is even *HDCP* compliant.

The CL-710 is so OLD - circa 2003 - I'll bet it does *NOTHING in the EDID or HDCP*

department and THEREIN is your problem.


----------



## goenkar

Bob,


I will try your suggestions tonight. I have open an issue with tech support.


drhankz, the Runco supports HDCP over DVI but it could be an EDID issue. I don't really want to replace the projector just yet as I can't get much for it now and its ONLY 3 years old .


Question :

Is it possible to setup a source with video over component and audio over HDMI. I tried doing this but if the scaler is not set to HDMI I cannot pick HDMI for audio.


This option would let me use component for my video from the PS3 and listen to audio over HDMI. This way I could delay any projector replacement for a while.


I don't belive this can be done but was hoping I had missed something.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I will try your suggestions tonight. I have open an issue with tech support.
> 
> 
> drhankz, the Runco supports HDCP over DVI but it could be an EDID issue. I don't really want to replace the projector just yet as I can't get much for it now and its ONLY 3 years old .
> 
> .



I just hope your OPEN TECH SUPPORT call is with Runco.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I will try your suggestions tonight. I have open an issue with tech support.
> 
> 
> drhankz, the Runco supports HDCP over DVI but it could be an EDID issue. I don't really want to replace the projector just yet as I can't get much for it now and its ONLY 3 years old .
> 
> 
> Question :
> 
> Is it possible to setup a source with video over component and audio over HDMI. I tried doing this but if the scaler is not set to HDMI I cannot pick HDMI for audio.
> 
> 
> This option would let me use component for my video from the PS3 and listen to audio over HDMI. This way I could delay any projector replacement for a while.
> 
> 
> I don't belive this can be done but was hoping I had missed something.



I don't think it can be an HDCP issue since the PS3 would undoubtedly demand an HDCP compliant display, and the PS3 is working when connected directly to the Runco.


It could be an EDID issue. But I'm hoping it is simply a matter of either the Anthem or the Runco not being quite awake enough to do the initial handshake of EDID information during the power up. Thus the idea of powering them up with a delay in between. It could also be a ground loop confusing one or the other of them, thus the idea of testing with nothing else cabled in.


--------------------------------------------------


You can NOT extract the audio from an HDMI source to pair with any other video source. Blame copy protection.


You CAN extract the video from an HDMI source and pair it with audio from any other NON-HDMI source, but I don't think that will help you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, my movie enjoyment has been halted due to technical difficulties. I was having trouble getting my HD-A1 working with the AVM50, when I tried to play a disc, the player stopped and reported "HDMI Error" on the front display. I pulled my hair out trying 1080i/60, 1080p/24, and 1080p/60 output formats, and toggling the "HDMI Repeater = Yes/No" setting. Finally, I tried physically unplugging the player from HDM1 input 1 and plugging into HDMI input 2. Voila, it works on HDMI Input 2. Now I'm worried that I have a hardware problem with my unit that is preventing HDMI handshaking from working on input 1. I can view the setup menu and boot screen for the player on input 1, I just can't play a disc, so I have some signs of basic signal integrity. I remember reading some previous posts on this thread of other people having HDMI input trouble. Note that I received my unit with software 1.11 installed. Does anyone have any suggestions for settings to try, or do you think there's a problem with my AVM50? Luckily, I can still enjoy it for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have emailed Nick at Anthem.



I'd agree with gostan. The FIRST thing to try here is to replace the HDMI cable between the Toshiba and the Anthem with a new, high quality cable.


The Toshiba is probably trying to establish the HDCP copy protection protocol when you start playing the disc (as opposed to just looking at its menus). The different Anthem inputs probably have slightly different connection quality through your cable and apparently input 1 is marginal due to the slight signal loss through the cable and its connectors.

--Bob


----------



## rlockshin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> First thing I tried was changing the setting on my Sat receiver from 720p to 1080i and the whole TV picture goes scrambled when I do this. If I try switching the TV input over to component which is fed from the sat receiver directly to the TV, the picture is fine, but when switched back to DVI which feeds through the Anthem, it scrambles again.
> 
> 
> I also tried shutting everything off and back on thinking this may reset something, but no luck in doing that either.
> 
> 
> What do you figure is doing this?



Just had my D2 installed and found out that software 1.11 DOES NOT accept 1080 i from satellite. My tech spoke with Anthem and they are aware of the issue.

Should be fixed soon is what they told us.

Anyone have more information on this issue?


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just had my D2 installed and found out that software 1.11 DOES NOT accept 1080 i from satellite. My tech spoke with Anthem and they are aware of the issue.
> 
> Should be fixed soon is what they told us.
> 
> Anyone have more information on this issue?



Thanks for this info. That was a head scratcher for me last night. I could not get 1080i over component from my motorola cable box, only 720p.


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd agree with gostan. The FIRST thing to try here is to replace the HDMI cable between the Toshiba and the Anthem with a new, high quality cable.
> 
> 
> The Toshiba is probably trying to establish the HDCP copy protection protocol when you start playing the disc (as opposed to just looking at its menus). The different Anthem inputs probably have slightly different connection quality through your cable and apparently input 1 is marginal due to the slight signal loss through the cable and its connectors.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob and gostan. I definitely agree that there is a marginal signal integrity problem, I'm really hoping it's the cable and not the connector on the Anthem. The very first time I powered up the Toshiba on input 1, the movie started playing. I changed the frame lock setting in the menu 30 seconds into the movie (causing the Anthem to switch output format). The toshiba stops playing the disc whenever it loses the HDMI handshake, and I believe a change in output format causes it to re-establish the link. Since then, I haven't been able to get input 1 to work. I'm using a 1m HDMI cable from ultralink ( www.ultralinkcables.com ). I believe it's a decent quality cable. Without going to buy another cable (which I might do), the only other cable I have is the cheap cable that came with the toshiba (which I will try). I will report back after trying a couple new cables. Note that it's the same cable that's failing on input 1, but working on input 2. There was a note packaged with the Anthem that the HDMI jacks are very fragile and to be careful inserting cables. I was extremely gentle, so I don't think I could have damaged the connector.


----------



## goenkar

Bob,


Tried your suggestions, no luck.


DrHankz ,


Spoke with Runco. They do send EDID and do not have any known issues with compatibility with this model. They have a firmware upgrade that fixes a overheating issue that I will get thru my dealer.


A google of 1360x765 and runco appears to show that its a resolution for their Plasma's.


Nick @Anthem is out till next week. Will hopefully make some progress after that.


Maybe I will have to upgrade the projector , aw shucks










Thanks



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't think it can be an HDCP issue since the PS3 would undoubtedly demand an HDCP compliant display, and the PS3 is working when connected directly to the Runco.
> 
> 
> It could be an EDID issue. But I'm hoping it is simply a matter of either the Anthem or the Runco not being quite awake enough to do the initial handshake of EDID information during the power up. Thus the idea of powering them up with a delay in between. It could also be a ground loop confusing one or the other of them, thus the idea of testing with nothing else cabled in.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> You can NOT extract the audio from an HDMI source to pair with any other video source. Blame copy protection.
> 
> 
> You CAN extract the video from an HDMI source and pair it with audio from any other NON-HDMI source, but I don't think that will help you.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE

rhrhodes


Do you have firmware 2.0 in your Toshiba HD-DVD player?


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> rhrhodes
> 
> 
> Do you have firmware 2.0 in your Toshiba HD-DVD player?



Yes, I do have firmware version 2.0 loaded onto the Toshiba.


----------



## rlockshin

Bob,

You seem to be the guru around here. Any way around the 1080i bug that wont pass satellite at that resolution?

New software fix,soon?

Thanks Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> You seem to be the guru around here. Any way around the 1080i bug that wont pass satellite at that resolution?
> 
> New software fix,soon?
> 
> Thanks Bob



This is the first I've heard of any such problem.


I'm using the Anthem V1.11 software on my D2 and I have no problem whatsoever feeding it HDMI 1080i from my Comcast/Motorola HDDVR.


I can't imagine what Anthem could have done to break this and still have 720p input working.


For those of you having a problem here, I hope Anthem can get on top of this for you quickly.


If the V1.11 software was generally incapable of receiving 1080i input we'd have had a TON of complaint posts on here a few weeks ago. All I can imagine is that the factory got a bad copy of the software and loaded it onto their recent production run machines.


And of course that WOULD happen just as people are going on vacation!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> You seem to be the guru around here. Any way around the 1080i bug that wont pass satellite at that resolution?
> 
> New software fix,soon?
> 
> Thanks Bob



In terms of workarounds while Anthem is fixing whatever they screwed up here:


1) Try Component video cabling instead of HDMI. This should work for 1080i from satellite and cable boxes, but it won't work for disc players due to their more restrictive copy protection. You should still be able to use HDMI to your display from the Anthem.


2) Try a re-install of the V1.11 software downloaded from the Anthem web site. This is grasping at the straw that the factory installed software is a bad software image.

--Bob


----------



## "MIKEY"

Exciting observations! Watching SD DVDs w/an Oppo 970 transporting 480i to the D2, then displayed at my RPT Hitachi w/720P capability, was simply amazing.


We watched Eric Clapton Unplugged, Finding Nemo & Pirates of Carribean II with more clarity resolution & depth than ever before. My wife says its almost 3D & kids see more things. I think the Gennum chip is doing a great job w/480i DVDs.


It looks so good that we are hard pressed to go with HD DVD or Blue Ray any time in the near future. We look forward to the day when one player plays SACD, DVD A, HD DVD & BR w/a single HDMI cable. Am I asking too much?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is the first I've heard of any such problem.
> 
> 
> I'm using the Anthem V1.11 software on my D2 and I have no problem whatsoever feeding it HDMI 1080i from my Comcast/Motorola HDDVR.
> 
> 
> I can't imagine what Anthem could have done to break this and still have 720p input working.
> 
> 
> For those of you having a problem here, I hope Anthem can get on top of this for you quickly.
> 
> 
> If the V1.11 software was generally incapable of receiving 1080i input we'd have had a TON of complaint posts on here a few weeks ago. All I can imagine is that the factory got a bad copy of the software and loaded it onto their recent production run machines.
> 
> 
> And of course that WOULD happen just as people are going on vacation!
> 
> --Bob



It occurs to me that I'm using HDMI for *VIDEO* from my Comcast but using an optical digital cable for audio.


This shouldn't make a bit of difference as to whether 1080i works, but since we're grasping at straws here, another thing to try would be to run optical audio and set the Anthem to get video from the HDMI but to get audio from the optical input.


--------------------------------------------------------


I've been scratching my head trying to figure out why satellite boxes might have a problem and other source devices not have a problem. I can't think of anything.

--Bob


----------



## suthrn

Bob, thanks for trying to help me with the macro thing. No, I still haven't gotten it but I'll continue to try. On another note, does anyone else find the D2 a little touchy or is it me. Last night while getting everything setup and switching back and forth between HDDVD(A2)HDMI and Comcast(Pacer Box)component the video went wacky and wouldn't straighten itself out. It was discolored and shifted down and to the right. I had to turn the D2 off/on and then all was fine. Then today getting all ready to watch Casino on HDDVD I couldn't get any sound out of the center. I unplugged the A2 and played with the settings and nothing. I went into the D2 and put 6.0 to THX and played it awhile and all was fine then I went back and put 6.0 to NONE(using A2 for audio processing) and all was good again. Everything was fine last night with the audio but got a little quirky today. Maybe it's just me, just checking.


----------



## suthrn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, my movie enjoyment has been halted due to technical difficulties. I was having trouble getting my HD-A1 working with the AVM50, when I tried to play a disc, the player stopped and reported "HDMI Error" on the front display. I pulled my hair out trying 1080i/60, 1080p/24, and 1080p/60 output formats, and toggling the "HDMI Repeater = Yes/No" setting. Finally, I tried physically unplugging the player from HDM1 input 1 and plugging into HDMI input 2. Voila, it works on HDMI Input 2. Now I'm worried that I have a hardware problem with my unit that is preventing HDMI handshaking from working on input 1. I can view the setup menu and boot screen for the player on input 1, I just can't play a disc, so I have some signs of basic signal integrity. I remember reading some previous posts on this thread of other people having HDMI input trouble. Note that I received my unit with software 1.11 installed. Does anyone have any suggestions for settings to try, or do you think there's a problem with my AVM50? Luckily, I can still enjoy it for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have emailed Nick at Anthem.



Is the error coming up on the A1 display or the Anthem? The A1 is known for having this problem. Make sure you have the latest firmware. If you happen to do a search on the HD-DVD thread you will find many an A1 getting the HDMI ERROR.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suthrn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, thanks for trying to help me with the macro thing. No, I still haven't gotten it but I'll continue to try. On another note, does anyone else find the D2 a little touchy or is it me. Last night while getting everything setup and switching back and forth between HDDVD(A2)HDMI and Comcast(Pacer Box)component the video went wacky and wouldn't straighten itself out. It was discolored and shifted down and to the right. I had to turn the D2 off/on and then all was fine. Then today getting all ready to watch Casino on HDDVD I couldn't get any sound out of the center. I unplugged the A2 and played with the settings and nothing. I went into the D2 and put 6.0 to THX and played it awhile and all was fine then I went back and put 6.0 to NONE(using A2 for audio processing) and all was good again. Everything was fine last night with the audio but got a little quirky today. Maybe it's just me, just checking.



suthrn,

The video problem you describe is a long standing bug. Apparently, in the course or re-doing the HDMI handshake, the Anthem loses track of how to make the HDMI connection work to the display. Fortunately it is pretty infrequent. The workaround, as you discovered is to power the Anthem off momentarily and then power it back on. You should also check that your display hasn't switched its own settings in an effort to recover at its end.


We've had a very few reports of loss of center channel or one front speaker from the Toshiba players. I don't think anyone has been able to pin that down yet. Yours I believe is the first report of the problem with the new Toshiba A2.

--Bob


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suthrn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is the error coming up on the A1 display or the Anthem? The A1 is known for having this problem. Make sure you have the latest firmware. If you happen to do a search on the HD-DVD thread you will find many an A1 getting the HDMI ERROR.



Yes, the error was coming from the A1 & I do have firmware 2.0 installed. However, I have some success to report. I swapped out the HDMI cable, and input 1 starting working. I then tested inputs 3 & 4 with the orignal cable, and they worked. I then went back to the original cable on input 1, and it started working. Right now I'm at a loss for what the problem was, my guess is the original cable probably did not have a snug mechanical fit with the connector. Unplugging and re-plugging the cable must have corrected it. However, last night, I went back and forth between input 1 & 2 and could get input 1 to work. Oh well, it's working now







Thanks for the suggestions everyone.


Wait a second, a last second update. 30 minutes into the movie as I'm typing this post, the player just stopped again with the original cable "HDMI Error" ... I'm going to put the other cable in again.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> probably did not have a snug mechanical fit with the connector.



Loose Cables with HDMI has been a PROBLEM.


I have experienced the same problem UNTIL I stared to use

these EXPENSIVE cables.


Why are they expensive?


Because they have a CLEVER ATTACHING DEVICE.


Never had another problem.

http://www.bestdealcables.com/LineList.aspx?LineID=57


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, the error was coming from the A1 & I do have firmware 2.0 installed. However, I have some success to report. I swapped out the HDMI cable, and input 1 starting working. I then tested inputs 3 & 4 with the orignal cable, and they worked. I then went back to the original cable on input 1, and it started working. Right now I'm at a loss for what the problem was, my guess is the original cable probably did not have a snug mechanical fit with the connector. Unplugging and re-plugging the cable must have corrected it. However, last night, I went back and forth between input 1 & 2 and could get input 1 to work. Oh well, it's working now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
> 
> 
> Wait a second, a last second update. 30 minutes into the movie as I'm typing this post, the player just stopped again with the original cable "HDMI Error" ... I'm going to put the other cable in again.



OK, I swapped the 2nd cable back in, and it has stopped working too. I'm now beginning to beleive the problem may still be with the Anthem. I'm wondering if it's temperature dependent. It worked this morning after being turned off all night, and now I can't get input #1 working at all again.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Loose Cables with HDMI has been a PROBLEM.
> 
> 
> I have experienced the same problem UNTIL I stared to use
> 
> these EXPENSIVE cables.
> 
> 
> Why are they expensive?
> 
> 
> Because they have a CLEVER ATTACHING DEVICE.
> 
> 
> Never had another problem.
> 
> http://www.bestdealcables.com/LineList.aspx?LineID=57



I don't know whether anyone else on this thread has noticed but Toshiba USA has removed all product reference to the XA2 !!!!!!!


OK fess up who knows whats happened to the XA2??????


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, I swapped the 2nd cable back in, and it has stopped working too. I'm now beginning to beleive the problem may still be with the Anthem. I'm wondering if it's temperature dependent. It worked this morning after being turned off all night, and now I can't get input #1 working at all again.



I doubt that it is temperature related except that of course the mechanical fit changes slightly as things warm up.


You may have a flakey input #1. Get a flashlight and compare the inputs to see if you can spot any bent pins in input #1. While you are at it, check the output from the player as well.


Now check the cable ends for anything that looks odd.

--Bob


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I doubt that it is temperature related except that of course the mechanical fit changes slightly as things warm up.
> 
> 
> You may have a flakey input #1. Get a flashlight and compare the inputs to see if you can spot any bent pins in input #1. While you are at it, check the output from the player as well.
> 
> 
> Now check the cable ends for anything that looks odd.
> 
> --Bob



I'm not saying for certain that it's temperature related, but it's possible. The electrical characterisics of the silicon chip that is driving the the HDMI connector will change with temperature.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's very odd. If you can get DVI to HDMI 720p input working you should be able to get DVI to HDMI 1080i input working no problem at all! They're essentially the same bandwidth of signal.
> 
> 
> What Anthem software version are you using now? It's at least V1.06, right?
> 
> 
> The only thing I can think of is that you've got a bad or confused DVI on your sat box. Try power cyling the sat box, the anthem and the TV once each to see if that get's things going again.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> With my Comcast/Motorola box I had a problem some time back where changing HDTV resolutions caused the HDMI input on the Anthem to lock up in a strange state. It even confused HDMI to the Anthem from other devices. It turns out that was fixed (with V1.06 software) by switching to a better grade of HDMI cable from the Comcast box.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I tried using Monsters top of the line HDMI cable and that didn't help matters. I'm still getting the same scrambled picture when my satellite receiver is set to 1080i output.


See attached file.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I tried using Monsters top of the line HDMI cable and that didn't help matters. I'm still getting the same scrambled picture when my satellite receiver is set to 1080i output.
> 
> 
> See attached file.



There are reports this afternoon that Anthem may have acknowledged a problem with HDMI 1080i input from satellite boxes on its latest software.


I find that hard to believe, not least because I'm using that software myself and have no problems.


But for the moment, I'd suggest you switch to Component cables (at 1080i) from your satellite box while this gets sorted out a bit further.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not saying for certain that it's temperature related, but it's possible. The electrical characterisics of the silicon chip that is driving the the HDMI connector will change with temperature.



The only reason I say I doubt it is that I went down the same path you are going down with my Comcast/Motorola box. I was convinced it had to be temperature related -- either in the Anthem or in the Comcast -- but nothing I did to cool things seemed to make any real difference. Then I swapped out the HDMI cable for a new, high end cable and the problem vanished.


----------------------------------------------------------------


Also make sure the HDMI plugs are not stressed by the weight of the cable or anything else. They need to go straight into the socket. One thing to try is to grasp the cable about an inch away from the plug and hold it firmly in place by hand to see if that makes the connection work. If so, you may have the plug coming a bit loose due to the angle and weight of the cable.

--Bob


----------



## suthrn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> suthrn,
> 
> The video problem you describe is a long standing bug. Apparently, in the course or re-doing the HDMI handshake, the Anthem loses track of how to make the HDMI connection work to the display. Fortunately it is pretty infrequent. The workaround, as you discovered is to power the Anthem off momentarily and then power it back on. You should also check that your display hasn't switched its own settings in an effort to recover at its end.
> 
> 
> We've had a very few reports of loss of center channel or one front speaker from the Toshiba players. I don't think anyone has been able to pin that down yet. Yours I believe is the first report of the problem with the new Toshiba A2.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Thanks alot for the explanation. At least I know I'm not the only one and that it might something that is being looked at. Just wanted to make sure I didn't have a faulty unit.


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The only reason I say I doubt it is that I went down the same path you are going down with my Comcast/Motorola box. I was convinced it had to be temperature related -- either in the Anthem or in the Comcast -- but nothing I did to cool things seemed to make any real difference. Then I swapped out the HDMI cable for a new, high end cable and the problem vanished.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Also make sure the HDMI plugs are not stressed by the weight of the cable or anything else. They need to go straight into the socket. One thing to try is to grasp the cable about an inch away from the plug and hold it firmly in place by hand to see if that makes the connection work. If so, you may have the plug coming a bit loose due to the angle and weight of the cable.
> 
> --Bob



I've been running some more experiments to try and further identify the problem. I started connecting my Motorola 6416 HD PVR to the various HDMI inputs. The cable box works on inputs 2,3, & 4. On input 1, I see a picture momentarily, and then I get a message and blue screen saying the HDCP handshake was lost. So, I think that rules out the HD-A1 being the problem. Perhaps it's still a HDMI cable problem. I have two cables, one cheap, and one high end. Both cables work with both the 6416 and HD-A1 on inputs 2,3,4. Both cables and both devices *do not* work on input 1. The only common theme I see here is input 1 on the Anthem, so my gut says that's the problem. I still beleive it could be temperature related, so I'm going to try again after the AVM has cooled down. There's no evidence of bent pins or physically damaged connectors on the cables or jacks. Bob, I'll try your suggestion of holding onto the cable firmly to see if that makes a difference.


----------



## dmorse4765

I also have a scrambled picture with 1080i on my Directv. A few channels will work and others are scramled. Even HD Discovery will not work at 1080i. Another problem is my Oppo will scramble at 1080i but my HD-A1 displays it fine. I thought it was me. I am using HDMI for video on satellite and optical for sound. On the Oppo I am using HDMI for both.



Dick


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also have a scrambled picture with 1080i on my Directv. A few channels will work and others are scramled. Even HD Discovery will not work at 1080i. Another problem is my Oppo will scramble at 1080i but my HD-A1 displays it fine. I thought it was me. I am using HDMI for video on satellite and optical for sound. On the Oppo I am using HDMI for both.
> 
> 
> 
> Dick




Dick:


You probably saw that I was having the same problems. I also have the Oppo player and your symptoms sound the same. If you go back a few threads, you will be able to see a picture of what my display looks like using 1080i.


However, I tried it again a few minutes ago and mysteriously, the problem is gone.


I also have to use DVI for video and optical for sound out of my Satellite Receiver which is a Bell Expressvu 9200 (Dishnet 622).


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are reports this afternoon that Anthem may have acknowledged a problem with HDMI 1080i input from satellite boxes on its latest software.
> 
> 
> I find that hard to believe, not least because I'm using that software myself and have no problems.
> 
> 
> But for the moment, I'd suggest you switch to Component cables (at 1080i) from your satellite box while this gets sorted out a bit further.
> 
> --Bob




Bob:


Where did you see the reports from Anthem on this issue?


I just tried changing to 1080i again a few minutes ago and the problem seems to have mysteriously cured itself. However, the picture is definitely better when satellite receiver is set to 720p. The 1080i signal seems shakey if you look at the edges of things on the display.


I'm not sure what is going on. Hope I didn't make a mistake getting this anthem piece.


----------



## KCWolfPck

I am picking up my AVM50 tomorrow and I know that it has firmware V1.06 installed (based on the dealer checking the box). I'm not going to open this up until X-mas, but I know I am going to want to upgrade the firmware before I get started with setting it up. Since stores will be closed on X-mas, I need to know what comes in the box and what I need to buy in order to perform the upgrade.


I will be using a laptop that does not have a serial port, but has a USB port.


So, what do I need to buy that doesn't come in the box?


Thank you!


Edit: Would this work?


----------



## dmorse4765

Bluemark81:


I tried to view your image but it will not let me enter for some reason. I can set it to output 1080i and view some channels. when I switch channels it scrambles, and then when I return to the channel it did work with it is scrambled. By scrambled I describe this as sometimes severe horizontal noise scrolling very fast and sometimesit is acombination of vertical bands scrolling both horizontal and vertically. I have tried 3 different cables with no difference. Also I am still running 1.10. I am sure someone will come up with a solution, till then it is 720p. I don't think it is my display because the Toshiba works.


Dick


----------



## vcs_wharvey

Well, my AVM 50 finally arrived today. I've set it up and am having no luck with my Pioneer DVD 47A player and 1080 output on my directv tivo receiver. I am not using hdmi, only component. I am unable to view the DVD video signal unless I start the DVD player while viewing the DVD source on the avm. If I switch away to another source and then return, the avm doesn't recognize the signal - just a blue screen.


As for the sat receiver, it only works in 720p. Otherwise I get the blue screen described above. It looks like others may have similar problems as well. This unit came preloaded with v1.11 software. This is soooo disappointing.


----------



## bluemark81

dmorse:


I am also using a toshiba display. I tried 1080i again a short time ago and it is acting up again. Your description sounds very much like what mine is doing. Even if I switch over to component, while my satellite receiver is set at 1080i, effects the picture, so it is not just effecting HDMI, although that is the most severe instances.


----------



## dmorse4765

Bluemark:


My Toshiba is a HD-DVD. My display is a Panasonic px500u. Possibly part of this is with Directv. I am still confused about the Oppo.


Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Where did you see the reports from Anthem on this issue?
> 
> 
> I just tried changing to 1080i again a few minutes ago and the problem seems to have mysteriously cured itself. However, the picture is definitely better when satellite receiver is set to 720p. The 1080i signal seems shakey if you look at the edges of things on the display.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what is going on. Hope I didn't make a mistake getting this anthem piece.



See RLOCKSHIN's Post 2908 earlier today in this thread.


I have no further information on this.


I still find it absolutely bizarre that this would only come out now given that this software has been in use by many people for several weeks. Again, the only thing I can figure is that Anthem manufacturing got a bad copy of the new software and installed it in on their most recently produced machines.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *suthrn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks alot for the explanation. At least I know I'm not the only one and that it might something that is being looked at. Just wanted to make sure I didn't have a faulty unit.



If this starts happening regularly for you, you should definitely contact Anthem technical support. Who knows? The info you give them may be just the clue they need to fix it.

--Bob


----------



## rlockshin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In terms of workarounds while Anthem is fixing whatever they screwed up here:
> 
> 
> 1) Try Component video cabling instead of HDMI. This should work for 1080i from satellite and cable boxes, but it won't work for disc players due to their more restrictive copy protection. You should still be able to use HDMI to your display from the Anthem.
> 
> 
> 2) Try a re-install of the V1.11 software downloaded from the Anthem web site. This is grasping at the straw that the factory installed software is a bad software image.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for your help.

here is my setup,maybe it will shed more light on the problem.

Anthem tech Vince did admit that there is a problem with 1080i

I have Direct tv H20 running component into the D2

Out is componenet into a key digital converter to VGA in on my Loewe Aconda

Hopefully this information may help.

Rick


----------



## rlockshin

Unfortunately my tv only accepts vga and comonent for HD

VA in doers show a slightly better picture.

I have the satellite receiver set to native on with 1080 i not checked.

All works well,when I check 1080 and a program is native 1080i,no picture on tv


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been running some more experiments to try and further identify the problem. I started connecting my Motorola 6416 HD PVR to the various HDMI inputs. The cable box works on inputs 2,3, & 4. On input 1, I see a picture momentarily, and then I get a message and blue screen saying the HDCP handshake was lost. So, I think that rules out the HD-A1 being the problem. Perhaps it's still a HDMI cable problem. I have two cables, one cheap, and one high end. Both cables work with both the 6416 and HD-A1 on inputs 2,3,4. Both cables and both devices *do not* work on input 1. The only common theme I see here is input 1 on the Anthem, so my gut says that's the problem. I still beleive it could be temperature related, so I'm going to try again after the AVM has cooled down. There's no evidence of bent pins or physically damaged connectors on the cables or jacks. Bob, I'll try your suggestion of holding onto the cable firmly to see if that makes a difference.




I had the exact same problem that you have. Turned out the HDMI "1" input on the D2 was bad. As a result, Anthem replaced my D2 for me. I have not had a problem with the second D2 and all inputs work fine now.


I would suggest you contact your dealer and have them swap one out for you... Hook up everything via inputs 2, 3, and 4 while you are waiting for the replacement D2


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> See RLOCKSHIN's Post 2908 earlier today in this thread.
> 
> 
> I have no further information on this.
> 
> 
> I still find it absolutely bizarre that this would only come out now given that this software has been in use by many people for several weeks. Again, the only thing I can figure is that Anthem manufacturing got a bad copy of the new software and installed it in on their most recently produced machines.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I'm on ver 1.1 NOT 1.11 but everything and I mean everything is working as advertised. So I suspect it must be 1.11 that has to be the culprit.


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

******************************************************


POSSIBLE, NEW, SYSTEMIC PROBLEM WITH 1080i INPUT IN ANTHEM D2 and AVM-50 RUNNING V1.11 or V1.10 SOFTWARE.


*******************************************************


Folks I don't have any good information on this, and with the holidays upon us I'm not sure how fast Anthem tech support is going to be able to respond. However we may be able to help ourselves if we can close in on the details.


As I understand it we now have numerous reports of newly delivered AVM-50 units that can not properly handle 1080i input from satellite and cable TV boxes. These reports imply that the problem exists on both HDMI and Component video input. These reports also imply that HDMI 720p and Component 720p are working properly.


We also have one poster -- RLOCKSHIN -- reporting that Anthem has acknowledged a problem here without further details except that a fix is likely to come out soon.


So far I don't believe we have any reports of failures on D2 units, either old or newly delivered.


I believe we have one report -- from BLUEMARK81 -- of a unit failing that was not delivered with V1.11 or V1.10 but was, rather, upgraded by the owner to that new software. But I'm not sure about whether or not BLUEMARK81 did his own upgrade.


Meanwhile we have many people, including me, who downloaded and upgraded some weeks back, and I've seen no reports from any of those folks of a problem like this. Of course in my case I'm using a D2, not an AVM-50.


Now it is possible that Anthem had a hardware glitch crop up in the production line. If so, there's no possibility of a fix except direct from Anthem. It is possible that whatever might have changed in the hardware is fixable with a software change, so don't panic about having to send units back just yet.


Meanwhile it is also possible that Anthem had a software installation glitch in the production line. If so, re-installing a "clean" version of V1.11 on top of the delivered software version might fix things.


Beware however that we had one user -- BUDEONE as I recall -- report that Anthem updated the V1.11 download kit to a new version without changing the version number. So it is possible that some of us who grabbed V1.11 earlier actually have a different version of the software than what's currently on the site for download. At the time of that report, the assumption was that Anthem had just improved the installer application -- so that the software installed on the Anthem itself was unchanged. However this may not really be the case. Anthem may have gotten sloppy.


But some of us probably have saved versions of the "original" V1.11 software which we downloaded and which still appears to work.


*********************************************************


Now before we get people all excited about doing a mass re-install, it would be wise to see if we are on the right track here. Thus some questions:


1) Is there anyone with a D2 (as opposed to an AVM-50), either old or newly delivered, who has V1.10 or V1.11 software installed and thinks he is experiencing this problem? We only need a couple of responses here. All I'm trying to do is determine whether this problem is isolated to the AVM-50 or not.

++++++++++++++++ ALREADY ANSWERED! SEE NEXT POST ++++++++++++


2) Is there anyone who did *THEIR OWN DOWNLOAD AND UPGRADE to V1.10 or V1.11*, either of a D2 or AVM-50, who is experiencing this problem? Or are all the problems only with units that arrived with V1.10 or V1.11 pre-installed?


3) Will BUDEONE or whoever previously posted the info that the V1.11 download kit might have been changed without the version number being changed please repost the details? Specifically when do you think this happened, what do you think was changed, and what makes you think such a change happened (e.g., phone call with Anthem)? We need to determine if anyone who responds to (2) above grabbed their download kit after that puported change, so the date when the change happened may be crucial.


4) Is there anyone who received a D2 or AVM-50 *WITH V1.10 OR V1.11 ALREADY INSTALLED BY THE FACTORY* who has been able to get correct performance with HDMI 1080i or Component 1080i input from a satellite or cable TV set top box? If so, we may need to find some way to compare the manufacturing date of your unit with the units having problems. Right now it would also be useful to know if anyone with this problem on HDMI managed to get it working by switching to Component or vice versa.


**********************************************************


Based on the responses, it may or may not be wise for folks to try a re-install of the Anthem software. And we may need to post the D2 and AVM-50 versions of the "original" V1.11 software for folks to use.


For those of you who are having this problem, my recommendation would be that you hang in there for a bit until we collect more info.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1) Is there anyone with a D2 (as opposed to an AVM-50), either old or newly delivered, who has V1.10 or V1.11 software installed and thinks he is experiencing this problem? We only need a couple of responses here. All I'm trying to do is determine whether this problem is isolated to the AVM-50 or not.



OK, upon checking back I see RLOCKSHIN has this problem with a newly delivered D2. So whatever's going on here is not just isolated to the AVM-50.

--Bob


----------



## rlockshin

My installer called into Anthem tech support. He spoke with Vince and Vince acknowledged that there was a problem and a fix should be out soon.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.


----------



## bluemark81

dmorse:


Mine is doing the same thing through my Oppo even thought the Oppo is set to 480i. As long as the Satellite receiver is set to 1080i, it seems all other sources get scrambled to one degree or another. It isn't even confined to the HDMI inputs, because it is also effecting my component inputs from my satellite. It's all got to do with the satellite receivers output setting and the Anthem not being able to cope with it, and thus screwing all other inputs up. I'm not sure why this would be though. In any case, I sent Nick at Anthem an e-mail on it today, but he is on vacation so I won't hear anything until next week. I suspect this will likely be a programming upgrade again.


----------



## dmorse4765

Hopefully this will shed a little light. After my last post I swapped HDMI inputs on the D2 for my H20 and had the same problems when switching channels. I then went into my satellite setup and changed the output to 480i/p and 720p. Now all channels display fine at 1080i. However this will not let you do native but it works for now until there is a fix.


Dick


----------



## dmorse4765

Bluemark81


I will go try my Oppo and see if it is working. If it displays 1080 then I think you have found the problem.


Dick


----------



## dmorse4765

Bluemark81

You were exactly right. If I select all and native on my satellite the Oppo does not work at 1080i. Same with all channels. Also when I was getting some channels before at 1080 and they would not display I would power off and back on and sometimes display ok untill I switched channels. Anybody else having these problems with Dish or another satellite provider?


Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 3) Will BUDEONE or whoever previously posted the info that the V1.11 download kit might have been changed without the version number being changed please repost the details? Specifically when do you think this happened, what do you think was changed, and what makes you think such a change happened (e.g., phone call with Anthem)? We need to determine if anyone who responds to (2) above grabbed their download kit after that puported change, so the date when the change happened may be crucial.



I just re-downloaded the V1.11 install kit for the D2 from the Anthem web site. The installer application matches the one I previously downloaded and used to upgrade my D2.


The Created and Modified time stamps are: Friday, November 24, 2006, 4:46PM


The Size is: 6,156,288 bytes


I don't have a file compare utility that I trust to test this better, but I think it highly unlikely that the V1.11 installer for the D2, as available for download now from the Anthem site, is any different than the one I previously downloaded and used.


And again, I have my Comcast box putting out HDMI 1080i and 480i to the D2 and my Pioneer DVD player putting out HDMI 480i to the D2 and they both work just fine.


I never downloaded the AVM-50 version of the installer, so I can't tell if there's been any change there.

--Bob


----------



## mjavman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My installer called into Anthem tech support. He spoke with Vince and Vince acknowledged that there was a problem and a fix should be out soon.
> 
> Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.



My installer is coming tomorrow to finish my setup, including firing up my D2. There goes what was supposed to be a great week off enjoying my new HT. I checked the box and it is firmware v1.11.


So as I understand it I should tell him that the current solutions is to set my h20 to either 480i/p or 720p?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjavman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My installer is coming tomorrow to finish my setup, including firing up my D2. There goes what was supposed to be a great week off enjoying my new HT. I checked the box and it is firmware v1.11.
> 
> 
> So as I understand it I should tell him that the current solutions is to set my h20 to either 480i/p or 720p?



That appears to be the case. It wouldn't hurt to try it at 1080i so that you could report back here whether or not you, too, are seeing this problem.


If you have the 1080i bug, you will not be able to use "native" safely in the H20. For best viewing, switch output resolutions manually until this is resolved. Use 480i for SDTV watching. Use 720p for HDTV watching. 1080i broadcasts will then be down-scaled by the H20 to 720p.


Alternatively you could just set a fixed output resolution of 720p and let the H20 also scale SDTV up to 720p for you. Not ideal, but certainly easier.


Of course if 1080i happens to be working for you, then the "native" mode is by far the best way to go since it changes resolutions automatically for you.


-----------------------------------------


My recommendation is that you NOT use 480p for anything. Using 480p means the H20 will be de-interlacing the incoming SDTV content (always 480i) instead of letting the Anthem do it, and the de-interlacing in the H20 is not all that great.

--Bob


----------



## mjavman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That appears to be the case. It wouldn't hurt to try it at 1080i so that you could report back here whether or not you, too, are seeing this problem.



Will do. As a side question, I'm putting together a list for him of all the little tweaks he should be working on. I have the following equipment and the following list of fixes:


equipment


-Panny TH-65PX600U (65" 1080p)

-Toshiba HD-XA1

-Oppo 970

-DirecTV H20 PVR

-HTPC (DVI-HDMI)/Optical audio input

-Velodyne DD-15

-5x NHT L5

-cooling plate for the D2 to sit on.


Fixes

-Repeater = NO for all sources

-S-video from D2 to TV to see DD-15 setup

-H20 set to 480i & 720p for the time being

-Since the HD-DVD discs are 1080p and I think the HD-A1 outputs 1080p, then even v1.11 should be able to display it?

-H20 & oppo set to "strech" 480i and then let the anthem scale the image up but put in pillar bars.

-set the D2 to 1080p/60 output frame lock = on


----------



## mjavman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> nine ball, mjavman and Bob: Thanks for the feedback. The Oppo 970 it is. I notice Oppo released a new model. It's the Oppo DV981HD. It's $229, but there's no 480i via HDMI. I better grab the 970 before they discontinue it.
> 
> 
> mjavman: Be sure to let us know how the D2 performs with the 65" Panny. I don't know of anyone else using that combination.



4 hours getting the 65" panny on the wall....sigh..to find out that the v1.11 can't take 1080i input. I'll let you know how the combo works, but will have to wait for anthem to fix this new problem (I want to tear my hair out).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjavman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Fixes
> 
> -Repeater = NO for all sources
> 
> -S-video from D2 to TV to see DD-15 setup
> 
> -H20 set to 480i & 720p for the time being
> 
> -Since the HD-DVD discs are 1080p and I think the HD-A1 outputs 1080p, then even v1.11 should be able to display it?
> 
> -H20 & oppo set to "strech" 480i and then let the anthem scale the image up but put in pillar bars.
> 
> -set the D2 to 1080p/60 output frame lock = on



Since this problem is so new, I don't know that we have any info yet on whether there's also a problem with 1080p/24Hz or /60Hz input as well.


If you intend to send 1080p/60 output to your Panny, then you probably want to leave Frame Lock = Off for all inputs. All forms of input will be converted to 1080p/60.


If instead you want to send a mix of /24 (or /48) and /60 to your Panny (presuming it can accept the /24 (or /48) and switch to a refresh rate which is a multiple of 24), then what you want is to set the Anthem's default output to 1080p/24 (or possibly /48) and set Frame Lock = Auto for video based sources and = OFF for film based sources. Frame Lock is something you set on a per input basis.


Thus, for example, you'd leave Frame Lock = OFF as the default for your Oppo input since you will most likely be watching film-based DVDs most of the time. Films would then be extracted from the Oppo's /60 input and turned into /24 output. If you decide view a DVD of a TV show, temporarily turn Frame Lock = Auto for the Oppo input and the /60 coming in from the Oppo will trigger the Anthem to switch to /60 output.


Meanwhile for the H20 you would set Frame Lock = AUTO by default since most off the time you will be watching video based content. But when watching a movie, you might want to temporarily turn Frame Lock = OFF.

--Bob


----------



## rlockshin

Here is my workaround for the 1080i bug on the D2:


I have native turned ON


I have all resolutions selected except 1080i


I am receiving a picture on all channels.

1080i channels are coming in and D2is displaying 720p on front panel display.


Bob, the H20 DTV receiver DOES NOT ALLOW you to turn off 480p as a resolution choice.

I tried numerous times

I believe that my set up is the best choice to use until the fix comes out

If someone has a better one, I would like to try it.

Mine could be 2nd best

Merry Christmas to all


----------



## obie_fl

I have developed a minor issue here that I thought was due to to an SA 8300HD DVR update, but after reading of the problems people are having with 1080I maybe it is the D2 firmware.


I updated the D2 to 1.10 about the same time as getting a 8300 update from my cable co.

I no longer get HDMI audio on my 480i channels. If I turn off 480i on the 8300 i.e. upconvert in the the 8300 the audio returns.

HDMI audio with 480i out of my Pioneer DVD player is fine.

None of my local cable users have reported this problem.

Any other SA 8300HD DVR with passport software users seen this?

Is the 1080i problem described above specific to firmware 1.10/11?


If I get a chance I will downgrade my D2 firmware but thought I'd check here first.


----------



## Blaine

Can anybody foresee a problem using my D2 to downrez the 1080p signal from a PS3 to 720p - the native resolution for my Mits HC3000U projector?


All signals will be over HDMI.


Sometime soon I'll get a 1080p projector but for now I'm stuck in 720p land.


----------



## gdc

FWIW, I have a D2 with 1.10 and my OTA tuner is set to output 1080i over HDMI (it won't do pass-through). I also have the Oppo 970 that outputs at 480i over HDMI. Both are outputting audio over their respective HDMI connectors.


Or is this specific to cable/sat and NOT OTA tuners?


I successfully updated 1.06, 107d, 1.10, but when I gt 1.11 it would not finish the update. I went back to 1.10. Nick said that there were no differences in actual code but the 1.11 was an optimized installer.


Has anyone with this issue downgraded back to 1.10?


As far as HDMI weirdness, I have experienced a lot. It seems to relate to power-on order. I've had to move connectors a few times from one input to another as I've seen a few glitches that became permanent, defying the usual power cycle attempts. I now leave my DVD and STB on at all times, and switch my Ruby pj on *before* the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blaine* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can anybody foresee a problem using my D2 to downrez the 1080p signal from a PS3 to 720p - the native resolution for my Mits HC3000U projector?
> 
> 
> All signals will be over HDMI.
> 
> 
> Sometime soon I'll get a 1080p projector but for now I'm stuck in 720p land.



Blaine,

There should be no problem, and in fact that's definitely the way to go. Leave it to the Anthem to do any scaling.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is my workaround for the 1080i bug on the D2:
> 
> 
> I have native turned ON
> 
> 
> I have all resolutions selected except 1080i
> 
> 
> I am receiving a picture on all channels.
> 
> 1080i channels are coming in and D2is displaying 720p on front panel display.
> 
> 
> Bob, the H20 DTV receiver DOES NOT ALLOW you to turn off 480p as a resolution choice.
> 
> I tried numerous times
> 
> I believe that my set up is the best choice to use until the fix comes out
> 
> If someone has a better one, I would like to try it.
> 
> Mine could be 2nd best
> 
> Merry Christmas to all



I suspect the H20 is reserving 480p as it's default resolution in case things don't seem to be working. 480p would also be required if you were using DVI at either end of the cable or if the device receiving the signal from the H20 didn't support HDMI 480i and you were cabled via HDMI.


In fact there are no channels that broadcast 480p. SDTV is always 480i and HDTV is either 720p or 1080i. So when you press Select on the Anthem Remote to get the status displays you should never see 480p coming in from the H20. As long as that's true then leaving 480p active in the H20 is no problem.


Thanks for the correction regarding "native". I was not aware you could still use "native" in the H20 and yet still disable 1080i output and have it automatically scale 1080i stations to 720p.


I take it you have not heard anything new from your installer re Anthem's response on all this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FWIW, I have a D2 with 1.10 and my OTA tuner is set to output 1080i over HDMI (it won't do pass-through). I also have the Oppo 970 that outputs at 480i over HDMI. Both are outputting audio over their respective HDMI connectors.
> 
> 
> Or is this specific to cable/sat and NOT OTA tuners?
> 
> 
> I successfully updated 1.06, 107d, 1.10, but when I gt 1.11 it would not finish the update. I went back to 1.10. Nick said that there were no differences in actual code but the 1.11 was an optimized installer.
> 
> 
> Has anyone with this issue downgraded back to 1.10?
> 
> 
> As far as HDMI weirdness, I have experienced a lot. It seems to relate to power-on order. I've had to move connectors a few times from one input to another as I've seen a few glitches that became permanent, defying the usual power cycle attempts. I now leave my DVD and STB on at all times, and switch my Ruby pj on *before* the D2.



gdc,

The V1.10 software definitely introduced something strange in the way the Anthem powers up. For example, my Fujitsu plasma no longer recognizes it as a device it has seen recently and so it no longer auto loads the correct set of saved Fujitsu settings from its memory.


However, all of this appears to be just a power up issue, and apparently only if the Anthem has been powered off for a while. Something is not getting initialized properly. I've not found any fix related to the order of powering things up.


The workaround, however, appears to be simple. If the Anthem does not appear to initialize properly when you power it up with the other devices, then just power down the Anthem momentarily and then power it up again. I and several other posters have found this to work every time.


Again, this is a new issue with V1.10. The prior V1.06 software did not have this problem.


----------------------------------------------------------


Now if you are having HDMI problems during normal viewing AFTER everything has powered up and connected properly, then my suggestion would be to look to your cables. V1.10 appears to be better even than V1.06 in keeping things going properly once you've gotten past power up. But HDMI's sensitivity to cable quality is quite alarming.


-----------------------------------------------------------


The newly reported 1080i issue seems to be isolated to newly manufactured units, received from the factory with V1.10 or V1.11 already installed. People who did their own upgrade are not reporting problems. So far, the only reportee I'm not sure of in this regard is BLUEMARK81. I don't know whether he did his own upgrade or not.


It may very well turn out that a re-install of V1.11, freshly downloaded from the Anthem site, is the solution. On the other hand, if the issue is related to improper initialization at power up, and if the problem is due to something having changed in what's left in memory after manufacturing testing, then a software fix from Anthem that initializes things properly may be the only solution.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have developed a minor issue here that I thought was due to to an SA 8300HD DVR update, but after reading of the problems people are having with 1080I maybe it is the D2 firmware.
> 
> 
> I updated the D2 to 1.10 about the same time as getting a 8300 update from my cable co.
> 
> I no longer get HDMI audio on my 480i channels. If I turn off 480i on the 8300 i.e. upconvert in the the 8300 the audio returns.
> 
> HDMI audio with 480i out of my Pioneer DVD player is fine.
> 
> None of my local cable users have reported this problem.
> 
> Any other SA 8300HD DVR with passport software users seen this?
> 
> Is the 1080i problem described above specific to firmware 1.10/11?
> 
> 
> If I get a chance I will downgrade my D2 firmware but thought I'd check here first.



Obie,

So far the new Anthem problem appears to be isolated to V1.10 and V1.11, and furthermore seems to be isolated to people who just received newly manufactured units with that software pre-installed by the factory.


So I think what you are seeing is a problem with your 8300. Possibly it got a bad upgrade.


Try hooking up optical digital audio from the 8300 and see if you get audio out that way at HDMI 480i. My guess is that that will work, and is probably what most people are using -- and thus no complaints from 8300 users.


HDMI audio bandwidth is spec'ed at a proportion of the current video bandwidth. I suspect your new 8300 software screwed up the math and decided it either couldn't send audio over HDMI at 480i or that the incoming channel had analog audio and thus it shouldn't send out digital audio at all at least as regards HDMI.


You might also experiment with 480p to see if the sound comes back.


Finally, if you have access to an HDMI capable TV with built-in speakers and the ability to receive HDMI 480i, you could try hooking that up to your 8300 temporarily to verify whether or not audio is actually coming out of the 8300.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765

My D2 was purchased in October with 1.06. I upgraded to 1.10 in november and I am also having the same problems as Bluemark81 with 1080i and also on my Oppo.


Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My D2 was purchased in October with 1.06. I upgraded to 1.10 in november and I am also having the same problems as Bluemark81 with 1080i and also on my Oppo.
> 
> 
> Dick



Dick,

Thanks for the report. OK, so now we know it is not just units delivered with V1.11 pre-installed that have this problem.


Unfortunately, this looks like another case of the Anthem not initializing properly when turned on. Unless there's a manufacturing difference that goes back as far as October (unlikely), that's the only explanation I can think of which would account for some upgraded units having the failure and others not.


We've also had scattered reports of people doing the upgrade -- without error messages -- only to have some random failure. And then when instructed by Anthem to re-install the upgrade the failure has gone away. This implies either that the upgrade verification process is not working correctly or that repeated upgrade installations leave the unit in a sufficiently different initial state that problems appear or don't appear.


Either case is not great.


--------------------------------------------------------------------


If one of you folks with the problem feels like trying the experiment, you might try to do a re-install of V1.11 (freshly downloaded from the Anthem site).


My recommendation would be that you:


1) Note all of your settings. Do not trust to saving and restoring settings either in the Anthem or a PC.


2) Restore Factory Defaults


3) Re-install the upgrade -- take the usual precautions with HDMI devices powered off.


4) Restore Factory Defaults yet again.


5) Manually reenter your settings


All of the above is to maximize the chances that the unit will then be in the initial state Anthem is most likely to have tested.


There is no guarantee this will work, but its the only thing I can think of trying short of waiting for Anthem to come up with a proper fix.

--Bob


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had the exact same problem that you have. Turned out the HDMI "1" input on the D2 was bad. As a result, Anthem replaced my D2 for me. I have not had a problem with the second D2 and all inputs work fine now.
> 
> 
> I would suggest you contact your dealer and have them swap one out for you... Hook up everything via inputs 2, 3, and 4 while you are waiting for the replacement D2



Yes, I'm pretty convinced now that the problem lies with the Anthem and not the cable. So, I'm going to see if my dealer and Anthem can swap it for me, hopefully it doesn't have to go back for service. Luckily, I can still use 2,3,4 so I'm not in a huge rush to get it replaced.


----------



## drhankz

*SPECTACULAR - is hardly enough to describe the Picture Quality.
*

I just hooked up my Pioneer BDP-H1 Blu Ray Player to my Anthem

D2. It is outputting 1080p/24 to the D2 and then to a Ruby @ 1080p

onto a 12 ft. Screen.

*SPECTACULAR - is hardly enough to describe the Picture Quality.
*

I was hoping 1080p/24 would be BETTER than the 1080i coming

off my HD DVD and then Converted to 1080p via the D2.


I can SAY with 100% - It is Awesome. Looks like I'll have to be

upgrading my HD DVD to 1080p/24 - When it is Available.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> *SPECTACULAR - is hardly enough to describe the Picture Quality.
> *
> 
> I just hooked up my Pioneer BDP-H1 Blu Ray Player to my Anthem
> 
> D2. It is outputting 1080p/24 to the D2 and then to a Ruby @ 1080p
> 
> onto a 12 ft. Screen.
> 
> *SPECTACULAR - is hardly enough to describe the Picture Quality.
> *
> 
> I was hoping 1080p/24 would be BETTER than the 1080i coming
> 
> off my HD DVD and then Converted to 1080p via the D2.
> 
> 
> I can SAY with 100% - It is Awesome. Looks like I'll have to be
> 
> upgrading my HD DVD to 1080p/24 - When it is Available.



Don't hold back, tell us what you really think. (grin!)


I presume in both cases you are sending 1080p/48Hz to the Ruby, which is displaying it at 48hz right?


It's interesting that you see that kind of difference. 1080i/60Hz from the HD-DVD, converted to 1080p/48Hz by the Anthem, should be equivalent to 1080p/24Hz input from an HD-DVD disc converted the same way by the Anthem.


My guess is that the Pioneer player is doing something else right compared to your HD-DVD player.


A couple things you might want to try:


1) Try 1080i/60Hz output from the Pioneer converted to 1080p/48Hz by the Anthem (i.e., Frame Lock = OFF). Does it appear different from 1080p/24Hz from the Pioneer converted to 1080p/48Hz by the Anthem? It shouldn't.


2) Try 1080i/60Hz from the Pioneer converted to 1080p/60Hz by the Anthem (i.e., Frame Lock = AUTO). Do you see "judder" compared to the /48Hz output? I.e., is this judder-free setup really working for you in a visible way?

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765

Bob

I think you are on the right track.I mentioned a few channels work and some don't when setting the output to 1080i. At times when I have a channel displaying ok and switch channels the picture is scrambled. Then sometimes if I power off and on the scrambled channel is ok until I change channels again. Most of my ota channels that are in 720p work better than other resolutions. When I purchased my D2 I tried 1080i output and it did not work so I assumed it was my display and set the D2 to 720p. It wasn't till 2 weeks ago that I tried 1080i again after reading many post on this forum. It is an amazing piece of equipment so we have to be patient with the bugs.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't hold back, tell us what you really think. (grin!)
> 
> 
> It's interesting that you see that kind of difference. 1080i/60Hz from the HD-DVD, converted to 1080p/48Hz by the Anthem, should be equivalent to 1080p/24Hz input from an HD-DVD disc converted the same way by the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob:


Again - Theory is always great - But I am one of the TWO Inventors

of this whole Raster Scan - now called Pixel Mapping Display Technology.

We first did this for CAD [Computer Aided Design] Displays in 1972.


No matter how great your VIDEO Processing Horsepower is - native

1:1 Pixel Mapping with No Processing of the original content always

wins. *WHAT YOU SEE IS WHAT YOU GET!*


I be a HAPPY CAMPER - Santa has Arrived EARLY [GRIN]!


Time to go watch some Blu-Ray Movies.

*BTW

House of Flying Daggers blows the screen away with DETAIL & COLOR.*


----------



## obie_fl

drhankz - I know you are excited but are you outputting at 48hz? Just curious as I thought the Ruby only took 48hz or am I confused with the Pearl? If you are outputting 48hz aren't you still processing it?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Obie,
> 
> So far the new Anthem problem appears to be isolated to V1.10 and V1.11, and furthermore seems to be isolated to people who just received newly manufactured units with that software pre-installed by the factory.



So has anyone tried downgrading the firmware?


> Quote:
> So I think what you are seeing is a problem with your 8300. Possibly it got a bad upgrade.



Probably true but I've talked to a couple of guys using 480i and HDMI and they claim it works although I'm not convinced. It worked before the updates.


> Quote:
> Try hooking up optical digital audio from the 8300 and see if you get audio out that way at HDMI 480i. My guess is that that will work, and is probably what most people are using -- and thus no complaints from 8300 users.



I've developed a really bad allergy to S/PDIF cables.











> Quote:
> HDMI audio bandwidth is spec'ed at a proportion of the current video bandwidth. I suspect your new 8300 software screwed up the math and decided it either couldn't send audio over HDMI at 480i or that the incoming channel had analog audio and thus it shouldn't send out digital audio at all at least as regards HDMI.



I was thinking the same thing as I went through that with my Pioneer and DVD-A.



> Quote:
> You might also experiment with 480p to see if the sound comes back.



Already did it doesn't. Needs to be 1080i or 720P.



> Quote:
> Finally, if you have access to an HDMI capable TV with built-in speakers and the ability to receive HDMI 480i, you could try hooking that up to your 8300 temporarily to verify whether or not audio is actually coming out of the 8300.
> 
> --Bob



Unfortunately all my displays are DVI only. I still think it is the 8300 too. I actually have two of them but no one locally seems to have the issue. Maybe after the holiday I'l downgrade the Anthem just to make sure.

Thanks Bob.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz - I know you are excited but are you outputting at 48hz? Just curious as I thought the Ruby only took 48hz or am I confused with the Pearl? If you are outputting 48hz aren't you still processing it?



If it is 48 Hz there is no processing - just sending

the EXACT same frame twice as often.


----------



## obie_fl

Just teasing drhankz but you are still touching that video coming off the disc.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

obie,

We've not yet had a report from anyone with any of this rash of problems who has done a re-install of V1.11. Nor has there been any report that Anthem is suggesting this as a possible fix yet.


See my post a few posts back about a suggested way of doing the re-install that maximizes, as best as I can figure it, the possibility that the resulting power on state for the D2 will most closely match what Anthem likely used for testing purposes. I.e., if a re-install is able to conceal this bug (rather than fix it), that's the most likely way to make it happen.

--Bob


----------



## rlockshin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I suspect the H20 is reserving 480p as it's default resolution in case things don't seem to be working. 480p would also be required if you were using DVI at either end of the cable or if the device receiving the signal from the H20 didn't support HDMI 480i and you were cabled via HDMI.
> 
> 
> In fact there are no channels that broadcast 480p. SDTV is always 480i and HDTV is either 720p or 1080i. So when you press Select on the Anthem Remote to get the status displays you should never see 480p coming in from the H20. As long as that's true then leaving 480p active in the H20 is no problem.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the correction regarding "native". I was not aware you could still use "native" in the H20 and yet still disable 1080i output and have it automatically scale 1080i stations to 720p.
> 
> 
> I take it you have not heard anything new from your installer re Anthem's response on all this.
> 
> --Bob




Not a word. Being Christms weekend, I doubt I will hear anything. Please check with your contact Nick at Anthem and see if he knows the release date for the fix. I have to believe that this is a MAJOR problem for them and that they want it fixed ASAP

I appreciate your guidance


----------



## Blaine

Tom - I have a SA 8300HD DVR that feeds my D2 via HDMI and the audio works fine. I'm running v1.06 firmware however. Let me know if I can help.


----------



## DreamCatcher

I have v1.10 installed on my D2,

I don't have the 8300HD

but I do have many 1080i sources

HD-DVD

HD Sat (set to native)

HD-VCR

I've even tried the OPPO set to 1080i


I haven't had any issues.

I'm I missing something or just lucky.......


dc


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have v1.10 installed on my D2,
> 
> I don't have the 8300HD
> 
> but I do have many 1080i sources
> 
> HD-DVD
> 
> HD Sat (set to native)
> 
> HD-VCR
> 
> I've even tried the OPPO set to 1080i
> 
> 
> I haven't had any issues.
> 
> I'm I missing something or just lucky.......
> 
> 
> dc



DC,

If you had the problem it would, from all accounts, be obvious: Scrambled images with 1080i input into the Anthem, and problems with other input sources that are NOT set to 1080i just because another source, not currently selected, IS set to 1080i.


Anthem's going to have egg on their face with this one.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765

Today I tried to upgrade to 1.11 from 1.10. I tried 4 times with 2 different computers. Each time the computer could find the D2but after afew minutes there was an error message (can not connect to OKI boot loader). So I will remain at 1.1 until there is another fix. Also when the installer starts it supposed to turn the D2 off, however it turns mine on.


----------



## vcs_wharvey

Does anyone have a copy of 1.1 or 1.06 they could email to me. I have one of the faulty 1.11 units (received yesterday) and have had terrible luck trying to reinstall it. I am also getting the OKI boot loader error most of the time, but after reducing baud rate to 300 it works some of the time. Problem is after reinstalling 1.11 I am getting worse results. Not even the setup menu is showing on screen and none of my video sources are showing.


I am really disinfranchised with Anthem right now. I'll be really grateful if any of you could pm me if you know where i can get the older upgraqdes.


Thanks!!


----------



## vcs_wharvey

Oh and I guess I should mention that I have an AVM50.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Folks,

If you are having trouble doing the software install, re-read the instructions carefully.


Note for example, that you must make sure there is no live connection to any HDMI or DVI devices (inputs or display). Some devices keep their HDMI or DVI sockets live even if they are "powered off" unless you actually remove them from wall power. I.e., they are only in a sort of stand-by mode even though they appear off.


If at all possible, use a Windows computer with an actual Serial port instead of a USB to Serial adapter.


Lowering your baud rate is not likely to be the answer here. If Setup Editor (as opposed to Live Video Settings Editor) can both find the Anthem and load the settings to save to a file on your PC, then your Serial connection is likely OK for the software install.


The software install turns off the Anthem at some points in the process and turns it on at other points in the process. This is normal. Do not interfere with this. The installer is able to tell whether the Anthem is on or off at any given point.


If things are working smoothly, the install and verification should take about 15 minutes total. If things don't work, it is OK to re-install on top of the partially installed stuff.


VCS_Wharvey, I'm afraid I don't have any of the AVM-50 stuff.

--Bob


----------



## jdh11

sorry for interrupting this forum but i just came across it and now i'm freaking out. i'm just about to order the d2 to go in my new ht, thinking it would be a awesome machine to go with the anthem p5 and p2, along wth the new panny 1080p projector . i am a amature compared to everyone on this forum, i was just looking to buy it, plug it in, set it up and enjoy. is there major problems ahead for me with the d2? i will continue to read everything i can about the d2 but any help or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.

Happy Holidays


----------



## neff2k

Well add another AVM50 owner to the list! What a Merry Christmas! Dealer called and told me mine had come in. I am absolutely floored at the difference between the sound coming out of my Denon 3805 and this unit. Holy cow. I haven't even gotten to the video portion. I am just still in awe of the music coming from it. More info tomorrow.


P.S. Wasn't expecting this thing till late January so really a bonus!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> *SPECTACULAR - is hardly enough to describe the Picture Quality.
> *
> 
> I just hooked up my Pioneer BDP-H1 Blu Ray Player to my Anthem
> 
> D2.



As somebody who "won" the right to buy a PS3 from Amazon, and just received it based on recent reviews, I'm still very jealous.


I didn't know the Pio was out (assuming there will be other player specific threads), but interested (here) about any more Pio H1 + Anthem observations, e.g., 480i STD def impressions etc.


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well add another AVM50 owner to the list!



Congrats, that does make the holidays very merry.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdh11* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> sorry for interrupting this forum but i just came across it and now i'm freaking out. i'm just about to order the d2 to go in my new ht, thinking it would be a awesome machine to go with the anthem p5 and p2, along wth the new panny 1080p projector . i am a amature compared to everyone on this forum, i was just looking to buy it, plug it in, set it up and enjoy. is there major problems ahead for me with the d2? i will continue to read everything i can about the d2 but any help or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.
> 
> Happy Holidays



Don't Panic! (grin!)


The D2 is a serious machine with a lot of flexibility. And that means that there are lots of folks playing with the more complex stuff it offers, and of course they post here. However, it's really not that tough to set up for "normal" use compared to *ANY* other receiver or pre/pro. Its setup menus are pretty straightforward, and the factory defaults are intelligently designed.


The user's manual is MUCH better than average. It is available for download from the Anthem site.


HDMI connections can be a bit of a nuisance with ANY receiver or pre/pro, but they offer so much that it's worth the effort. And figuring out how to survive some of the gyrations going on in the market right now -- HD-DVD, Blue Ray, new audio formats, etc. -- is daunting to be sure. But the D2's got you covered when you want to do that stuff, and there's no need to get into that stuff RIGHT NOW if you want to take it more slowly.


----------------------------------------------------------------


At the moment, Anthem seems to have a software problem that's tripping up a bunch of people taking delivery of new machines. Anthem is, by all accounts, on the case and we are awaiting a fix. I've no doubt they will provide a fix in short order as the stuff that's broken now worked just fine in the prior software release.


It's just Murphey's Law at work. This had to happen just as the holiday vacation period comes up.


So get the owner's manual and look through it. Ask some questions here. By the time you've done that, Anthem will probably have the fix out for this current fiasco and you'll have met a number of the folks here who can hardly manage to control themselves long enough to tell how much they like their D2s or AVM-50s.


Silly grins on the lot of them, and all that hopping about in glee....

--Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck

I have a laptop with only USB ports, will this cable work to update an AVM-50?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1110263657278


----------



## neff2k

Its amazing how I at one point thought this video coming from my Denon 3910 was really good. Doesn't hold a candle to the detail I am getting through the AVM50 now. I will be ordering a Oppo 970 to watch the regular DVD's so I can get the native 480i. The only options this player has is 480p/576p. Going to have to go back through this thread and pick up and hints and tricks I missed. My display only does 1080i so I won't be able to understand the hoopla with 1080p, but within time. That Pioneer Elite 60" sure is a beauty


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a laptop with only USB ports, will this cable work to update an AVM-50?
> 
> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1110263657278



Never heard of Dynex stuff.


If I had to buy a Windows USB to Serial adapter right now, the only two brands I'd even consider would be Keyspan and Belkin. Drivers are everything with these, and those are two companies that have been around for ever and know how to do it.


One problem is making sure you're buying one with the latest drivers since these things can sit on the peg for a while.


Here's a link to a Keyspan:

http://www.pcmall.com/pcmall/shop/de...pno~313519.asp 


However, I'm afraid there are no guarantees with any of these adapters.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Its amazing how I at one point thought this video coming from my Denon 3910 was really good. Doesn't hold a candle to the detail I am getting through the AVM50 now. I will be ordering a Oppo 970 to watch the regular DVD's so I can get the native 480i. The only options this player has is 480p/576p. Going to have to go back through this thread and pick up and hints and tricks I missed. My display only does 1080i so I won't be able to understand the hoopla with 1080p, but within time. That Pioneer Elite 60" sure is a beauty



Darell,

I don't know if you've followed the panic about 1080i input problems here over the past day. If you have a 1080i source device, in particular an HDTV satellite or cable set top box, I'd appreciate it if you could verify whether or not it is working through your AVM-50 when set to send 1080i to the Anthem over either HDMI or Component.


Whether or not this works, we'll also need to know what software version came with your AVM-50. Press the Select key on the Anthem remote and the software version will display at the end of the first line of info that comes up.


------------------------------------------------


By the way, until you get your Oppo, you can send 480i from your Denon 3910 to the Anthem over Component cables.

--Bob


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well add another AVM50 owner to the list! What a Merry Christmas! Dealer called and told me mine had come in. I am absolutely floored at the difference between the sound coming out of my Denon 3805 and this unit. Holy cow. I haven't even gotten to the video portion. I am just still in awe of the music coming from it. More info tomorrow.
> 
> 
> P.S. Wasn't expecting this thing till late January so really a bonus!



Darrell,


Congrats on getting your AVM50 before Christmas







... I too am totally floored at the difference in sound quality from the 3805. I've noticed the biggest difference with music, but movies sound incredible too. Unfortunately, my dealer needs to order me another AVM50 because HDMI Input 1 appears to be dead. Luckily, I don't need all 4 inputs, so I can still enjoy it. What speakers are you using, I've got the Energy Reference Connoisseur line (RC30, RCLCR, RC-R), and they sound spectacular.


Bob,

My AVM50 came pre-installed with v1.11 and my motorola cable box (6416) appears to be working when set for 1080I output through the Anthem. However, I haven't used it very much yet through the Anthem. My toshiba HD-A1 is also working fine with 1080I output. Currently, I've got the Anthem setup for 1080p/60 output, I'm about to go try 1080p/24 with a film source.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My AVM50 came pre-installed with v1.11 and my motorola cable box (6416) appears to be working when set for 1080I output through the Anthem. However, I haven't used it very much yet through the Anthem. My toshiba HD-A1 is also working fine with 1080I output. Currently, I've got the Anthem setup for 1080p/60 output, I'm about to go try 1080p/24 with a film source.



Thanks for the report. This is more evidence that it's not the software itself which is broken, even for recently manufactured units delivered with V1.11 pre-installed.


Right now I'm betting it's an iniitialization problem, which means it could be random which machines exhibit the problem.


Perhaps we'll get some good news from the folks with failing units who are trying a software re-install.

--Bob


----------



## sfield

I've been experimenting with a custom resolution with new timing values for 24p playback with the Toshiba HD-A1, D2 and the Sony Pearl (1080i -> [email protected]). Two things:


1. Setting the custom resolution to the D2 builtin 1080p48 resolution template is still jerky, but not as jerky as the builtin 1080p24 setting.


2. My new custom resolution values appear to be much improved over anything else. The end credits in MI:3 playback entirely with no jerkiness. The entire bridge attack scene in MI:3 (chapter 11) plays back with no jerkiness. Bottom line: *no jerkiness observed so far*. I have only done this very limited testing so-far.


Here are my custom timing values below, use the instructions posted elsewhere in this thread for setting these via the Live Video settings editor.


Others having problems with 24p playback with the Sony Pearl should try this and comment on their results.



2200 total horizontal size

1920 active horizontal size

96 horiz start sync

144 horiz end sync


1123 total vertical size

1080 active vertical size

4 start sync veritical

13 end sync vertical


1080 field active size

43 black size

0 offset

59235106 pixel clock rate.


----------



## rhrhodes

Bob,

I just tried 1080p/24 output. I need do more tests, but to my eye, I think 1080p/60 looks smoother. It's not continuous, but on 1080p/24, the motion occasionally looks choppy (I think this is referred to as motion judder). Interestingly, when the FHD1 is receiving a 1080p signal, the PureCinema setting can not be adjusted, so I'm guessing it only applies if the signal needs to be scaled and/or de-interlaced.

Ryan


----------



## sfield

rhrhodes, try creating a custom resolution, and set the Anthem to output this, instead of the builtin 24p setting per my comments in an earlier thread today, timing values below. Please report back on your results...



2200 total horizontal size

1920 active horizontal size

96 horiz start sync

144 horiz end sync


1123 total vertical size

1080 active vertical size

4 start sync veritical

13 end sync vertical


1080 field active size

43 black size

0 offset

59235106 pixel clock rate.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I just tried 1080p/24 output. I need do more tests, but to my eye, I think 1080p/60 looks smoother. It's not continuous, but on 1080p/24, the motion occasionally looks choppy (I think this is referred to as motion judder). Interestingly, when the FHD1 is receiving a 1080p signal, the PureCinema setting can not be adjusted, so I'm guessing it only applies if the signal needs to be scaled and/or de-interlaced.
> 
> Ryan


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I just tried 1080p/24 output. I need do more tests, but to my eye, I think 1080p/60 looks smoother. It's not continuous, but on 1080p/24, the motion occasionally looks choppy (I think this is referred to as motion judder). Interestingly, when the FHD1 is receiving a 1080p signal, the PureCinema setting can not be adjusted, so I'm guessing it only applies if the signal needs to be scaled and/or de-interlaced.
> 
> Ryan



Ryan,

It makes sense that the FHD-1 would force 72Hz refresh rate all on its own for a /24Hz input, rather than having an option for it. Have you found any status display in the FHD-1 that will show whether it is currently using a /60Hz or /72Hz refresh rate?


I'm beginning to suspect that the default 1080p/24Hz timings in the V1.11 Anthem software are not ideal -- to wit, see SFIELD's post above re the Pearl.


It may be that to get the 24Hz stuff to work properly in the FHD-1 you need to put in a custom set of resolution and timing settings. I wonder what the odds are that SFIELD's current test settings for the Pearl would work well for the FHD-1 as well?


By the way, I suspect you also want to set Dot by Dot mode for both 1080p/24Hz and /60Hz. And as I understand it, the "Pure" picture mode is the one in vogue for use on the FHD-1 with fine quality input sources (such as the Anthem). See the flat panel display forum here for the experts.


We had one other poster in this thread who managed to figure out appropriate custom Anthem timings for his display by searching in the video processor forum here -- possibly in threads for other Gennum VXP based scalers.

--Bob


----------



## abc999

I tried the PS3 with the AVM50 adjusted for 1080/24 resolution and on fast scenes the judder is more evident than at 1080p/60,


I also tried Eagles farewell tour 1 via Toshiba HD A1 with PCM setting in the HDMI audio selection setting. The resulting bass was anemic. When I switched to bitstream, the familiar sound that I hear via the DVD version was there. Is this the issue with the PCM bass discussed earlier?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tried the PS3 with the AVM50 adjusted for 1080/24 resolution and on fast scenes the judder is more evident than at 1080p/60,
> 
> 
> I also tried Eagles farewell tour 1 via Toshiba HD A1 with PCM setting in the HDMI audio selection setting. The resulting bass was anemic. When I switched to bitstream, the familiar sound that I hear via the DVD version was there. Is this the issue with the PCM bass discussed earlier?



What's your display? Unless your display is able to not only accept 1080p/24Hz but also to display it at a multiple of 24Hz (usually 48Hz or 72Hz) there will be no advantage to /24Hz input. There are a number of displays out there which say the accept 1080p/24Hz without making it clear that they then display it at 60Hz.


Also, we may be on the verge of discovering that the default timings in the Anthem for 1080p/24Hz output are not correct.


Your weak bass from the Toshiba certainly sounds like the LFE problem discussed earlier. On the other hand, we have a number of posters here saying they have no such problem using the Toshiba A1 with the D2 or AVM-50. I wonder what's different between your setup and theirs? In fact, I believe right now yours is the *ONLY* report we have at present that the Anthem might have the missing LFE 10dB boost problem.

--Bob


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ryan,
> 
> It makes sense that the FHD-1 would force 72Hz refresh rate all on its own for a /24Hz input, rather than having an option for it. Have you found any status display in the FHD-1 that will show whether it is currently using a /60Hz or /72Hz refresh rate?
> 
> 
> I'm beginning to suspect that the default 1080p/24Hz timings in the V1.11 Anthem software are not ideal -- to wit, see SFIELD's post above re the Pearl.
> 
> 
> It may be that to get the 24Hz stuff to work properly in the FHD-1 you need to put in a custom set of resolution and timing settings. I wonder what the odds are that SFIELD's current test settings for the Pearl would work well for the FHD-1 as well?
> 
> 
> By the way, I suspect you also want to set Dot by Dot mode for both 1080p/24Hz and /60Hz. And as I understand it, the "Pure" picture mode is the one in vogue for use on the FHD-1 with fine quality input sources (such as the Anthem). See the flat panel display forum here for the experts.
> 
> 
> We had one other poster in this thread who managed to figure out appropriate custom Anthem timings for his display by searching in the video processor forum here -- possibly in threads for other Gennum VXP based scalers.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob & sfield,

I have to pick up a USB to serial adapter before I can try loading custom video settings, so stay tuned. I do have the plasma in dot-by-dot pure mode. Right now, with 1080p/60 output, the picture is stunning. From what I can tell, there's no status information on the plasma to determine the current refresh rate.

Ryan


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What's your display? Unless your display is able to not only accept 1080p/24Hz but also to display it at a multiple of 24Hz (usually 48Hz or 72Hz) there will be no advantage to /24Hz input. There are a number of displays out there which say the accept 1080p/24Hz without making it clear that they then display it at 60Hz.




My display is a HC5000 PJ.


Alvin


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Right now I'm betting it's an iniitialization problem, which means it could be random which machines exhibit the problem.
> 
> 
> Perhaps we'll get some good news from the folks with failing units who are trying a software re-install.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


I successfully re-installed v1.11 3 times last night and the problem persists. I sure hope this isn't a hardware problem. I did encounter the OKI boot loader error many times, however so maybe the update is not quite getting completely installed without errors (bad crc, etc) but still reports a successful update.


Either way I guess we'll have to wait for Anthem to let us know something. I sent a tech support email to them yesterday morning and never heard from them. I'm guessing they are closed until after the 1st (but hopefully not!).


In the meantime I am enjoying the incredible audio abilities of this piece. Quite spectacular.


Wayne


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I successfully re-installed v1.11 3 times last and the problem persists. I sure hope this isn't a hardware problem. I did encounter the OKI boot loader error many times, however so maybe the update is not quite getting completely installed without errors (bad crc, etc) but still reports a successful update.
> 
> 
> Either way I guess we'll have to wait for Anthem to let us know something. I sent a tech support email to them yesterday morning and never heard from them. I'm guessing they are closed until after the 1st (but hopefully not!).
> 
> 
> In the meantime I am enjoying the incredible audio abilities of this piece. Quite spectacular.
> 
> 
> Wayne



All I can say is those who have PCs with real serial ports have had a lot

less trouble [IF ANY] installing the software. Anthem has ACKNOWLEDGED

this fact.


As a previous DVDO VP50 Owner - They experienced the same problem

upgrading their boxes when people used a USB Serial Adapter versus a

real serial port.


I bought a 2 port serial board to plug into my desktop PC for $15.

That was a better investment than a USB Serial Adapter. I know

if you are a laptop owner - you do not have that option.


Just an FYI!


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All I can say is those who have PCs with real serial ports have had a lot
> 
> less trouble [IF ANY] installing the software. Anthem has ACKNOWLEDGED
> 
> this fact.
> 
> 
> As a previous DVDO VP50 Owner - They experienced the same problem
> 
> upgrading their boxes when people used a USB Serial Adapter versus a
> 
> real serial port.
> 
> 
> I bought a 2 port serial board to plug into my desktop PC for $15.
> 
> That was a better investment than a USB Serial Adapter. I know
> 
> if you are a laptop owner - you do not have that option.
> 
> 
> Just an FYI!




Hi there,


I have a laptop here and it is equipped with a real rs-232 port. The computer is about 5 years old so maybe that was before they decided to phase out serial ports on them. I'm using a standard serial cable female to male for the install and have noticed the installation errors. I've seen others on the forum say that previous updates went well for them, but the 1.11 started to exhibit problems. Maybe there were some modifications to the installer app that cause it to be more problematic in v1.11. Only Athem knows I guess.


Wayne


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> 
> I have a laptop here and it is equipped with a real rs-232 port. The computer is about 5 years old so maybe that was before they decided to phase out serial ports on them. I'm using a standard serial cable female to male for the install and have noticed the installation errors. I've seen others on the forum say that previous updates went well for them, but the 1.11 started to exhibit problems. Maybe there were some modifications to the installer app that cause it to be more problematic in v1.11. Only Athem knows I guess.
> 
> 
> Wayne



Hi Wayne:


Then you are a LUCKY Laptop Owner with a real serial port.

My NEW D2 came with 1.06 installed. Anthem actually warned

me to NOT Install 1.11 because some have been having trouble

with USB Serial Adapters. Since I had a real serial port - I gave

it a try and had PERFECT SUCCESS.


Anthem says they are working on 1.12 which will fix any 1.10

or 1.11 problems. But with all the Holidays here - I doubt we

will see it before NEXT YEAR.


----------



## goenkar

FWIW in the process of my exchange of emails with tech support regarding my projector issue, I asked about the 1080i issue. I was informed that they are aware of the problem and are working on a fix for it.


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Wayne:
> 
> 
> Then you are a LUCKY Laptop Owner with a real serial port.
> 
> My NEW D2 came with 1.06 installed. Anthem actually warned
> 
> me to NOT Install 1.11 because some have been having trouble
> 
> with USB Serial Adapters. Since I had a real serial port - I gave
> 
> it a try and had PERFECT SUCCESS.
> 
> 
> Anthem says they are working on 1.12 which will fix any 1.10
> 
> or 1.11 problems. But with all the Holidays here - I doubt we
> 
> will see it before NEXT YEAR.





Hahah - I'm not feeling so lucky right now! : ) Just for kicks, I think I'll disassemble my setup and take the AVM50 into the office and try an update with my desktop PC to see if I have similar results. Will let you all know how it goes.


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My display is a HC5000 PJ.
> 
> 
> Alvin



Alvin,


Sent you a PM regarding questions I have about the Mitsu. Appreciate any feedback


Thanks


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hahah - I'm not feeling so lucky right now! : ) Just for kicks, I think I'll disassemble my setup and take the AVM50 into the office and try an update with my desktop PC to see if I have similar results. Will let you all know how it goes.




OK, I gave it a shot. It installed without a problem on the first try - so that obviously got me excited. However, once I returned it to the HT again, the picture was still scrambled - even the menu display is scrambled. It's almost like I took a step back with these installs - when I first got the unit, the setup menu was visible at least. Oh well.


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Darell,
> 
> I don't know if you've followed the panic about 1080i input problems here over the past day. If you have a 1080i source device, in particular an HDTV satellite or cable set top box, I'd appreciate it if you could verify whether or not it is working through your AVM-50 when set to send 1080i to the Anthem over either HDMI or Component.
> 
> 
> Whether or not this works, we'll also need to know what software version came with your AVM-50. Press the Select key on the Anthem remote and the software version will display at the end of the first line of info that comes up.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> By the way, until you get your Oppo, you can send 480i from your Denon 3910 to the Anthem over Component cables.
> 
> --Bob



Maybe I am missing something here, I didn't think we wanted the sources to send 1080i into the AVM50/D2? Something strange did happen when I hooked up the DTV H20 yesterday for the first time. I would get the H20's guide, menus, and everything just no picture. I changed the H20's settings to Native, then I went into TV Type and changed the TV resolution to only 480i. Problem still existed where I could see all the menu's just no picture. So I went in to the H20 and performed a system reset(Reboot). After this everything seems to be working just fine. The H20 outputs to the Anthem at 480i, and the Anthem outputs at 1080i just fine.


My AVM50 came with 1.11 installed from the factory.


----------



## dmorse4765

Change your output resolution to 720p using the front panel display on the D2. I am just going to wait on the Anthems fix. If you want to use 1080i for DVD or HD-DVD set your satellite or cable box to outputt 720p until the fix is posted.



Dick


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Darrell,
> 
> 
> Congrats on getting your AVM50 before Christmas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I too am totally floored at the difference in sound quality from the 3805. I've noticed the biggest difference with music, but movies sound incredible too. Unfortunately, my dealer needs to order me another AVM50 because HDMI Input 1 appears to be dead. Luckily, I don't need all 4 inputs, so I can still enjoy it. What speakers are you using, I've got the Energy Reference Connoisseur line (RC30, RCLCR, RC-R), and they sound spectacular.



Thank you! Yes music is is just phenomenal. That stinks about the one HDMI port being bad on yours. Mine all seem to be working just fine, no problems. I am running Paradigm Studio 100's V.4 Mains, and a Paradigm CC-690 Center. The rears are still my old Infinity QPS-1's which will be replaced early this coming year with the Paradigm 590's. Sub is a Paradigm Seismic 12. One happy camper sitting here.


On another note: I have just reset my DTV-H20 to output only 1080i, and everything is still just fine. Actually I prefer the image coming out of the H20 at 1080i. Is DirecTV's HD native 1080i? One thing to note is in order for the settings to take affect I always have to reset the H20(Reboot) Not just turn it off and back on, but reset it through the menu-settings-setup-reset.


Hope this is the info you guys are looking for.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> rhrhodes, try creating a custom resolution, and set the Anthem to output this, instead of the builtin 24p setting per my comments in an earlier thread today, timing values below. Please report back on your results...



Whatever CUSTOM resolution you end up with.


You should then go to the Pearl Menu - Display INFO.


You want to see that it is USING ---
*Memory Location 14*

and the
*Horizontal Freq is 26.973*

and the
*Vertical Freq is 23.976*


If you get the numbers above - you should have

NO MORE PROBLEMS.


or Double that if you are trying to do 48 fps - but

there is no MEMORY location in the Pearl Programmed

for 48 fps.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe I am missing something here, I didn't think we wanted the sources to send 1080i into the AVM50/D2? Something strange did happen when I hooked up the DTV H20 yesterday for the first time. I would get the H20's guide, menus, and everything just no picture. I changed the H20's settings to Native, then I went into TV Type and changed the TV resolution to only 480i. Problem still existed where I could see all the menu's just no picture. So I went in to the H20 and performed a system reset(Reboot). After this everything seems to be working just fine. The H20 outputs to the Anthem at 480i, and the Anthem outputs at 1080i just fine.
> 
> 
> My AVM50 came with 1.11 installed from the factory.



Darell, that's fine if you are watching an SDTV channel since they are all 480i anyway, but if you are watching an HDTV channel you want the H20 to send 720p or 1080i to the Anthem (according to what's coming in on the channel at the moment). If you force the H20 to use *ONLY* 480i output then you are forcing it to downscale all your HDTV to SDTV resolution before it sends it over to the Anthem.


I don't have an H20 myself, but my understanding is that the way it is supposed to work is that you set it to "native" to track the resolution of the incoming TV channel (instead of using only one, fixed, output resolution), and then you ALSO set the resolutions your TV can support.


So you should have "native" set along with 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i since the Anthem accepts all of those.


Then the H20 will use the correct resolution according to each station you switch to.


The problem people are reporting is that when the H20 tries to use 1080i -- i.e., when you have tuned to an HDTV station that is currently broadcasting in 1080i -- the Anthem produces a scrambled picture and, what's worse, OTHER source devices stop working properly through the Anthem.


The workaround people have found -- until Anthem fixes this -- is to turn off 1080i as an option for the H20's set of "native" resolutions. Leave 480i, 480p and 720p. Then the H20 will use 480i for SDTV channels and 720p for all HDTV channels regardless of whether or not they are currently broadcasting in 1080i.


And this also, apparently, fixes the problem folks are having with OTHER source devices. I.e., you only have to do this fix with your satellite or cable TV box.


**********************************************


So here's the test: Set the H20 to have all 4 resolutions active in "native" mode. Tune to an HDTV channel that's broadcasting in 1080i, and see if you get a good image. If so, press Select on the Anthem remote twice to get it to display the incoming resolution. Verify that it is 1920 x 1080i /59.94Hz. There will likely also be a "CP" at the end of that line indicating copy protection is active.


If you DON'T get a good image, then try the workaround of disabling just 1080i from the set of H20 resolutions. Leave 480i, 480p and 720p as well as "native" mode. Try your 1080i HDTV station again. It is likely that it will work but the Anthem will now report that it is receiving 720p instead of 1080i from the H20.


Please report back whether 1080i input is working properly for you or whether you had to do this workaround of limiting things to 720p.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On another note: I have just reset my DTV-H20 to output only 1080i, and everything is still just fine. Actually I prefer the image coming out of the H20 at 1080i. Is DirecTV's HD native 1080i? One thing to note is in order for the settings to take affect I always have to reset the H20(Reboot) Not just turn it off and back on, but reset it through the menu-settings-setup-reset.
> 
> 
> Hope this is the info you guys are looking for.



DirecTV, along with all other satellite and cable services, as well as off the air stations, broadcasts in THREE DIFFERENT resolutions.


All SDTV stations come in at 480i.


HDTV stations come in at 720p or 1080i, and may even switch from one to the other depending upon the source material they are broadcasting. Most HDTV broadcasts right now are 1080i. 720p is most commonly used for sports broadcasting, by FOX HDTV for example.


Ideally you want your satellite or cable box to send along the resolution it is receiving WITHOUT CHANGE. So it should send 480i to the Anthem when watching SDTV channels and it should send 720p or 1080i to the Anthem when watching HDTV according to what's coming in on that channel at the moment.


The "native" mode in the H20 should accomplish this for you automatically if you also enable all 4 output resolutions.


Please try setting that, doing the Reset you've found makes things work better, and then switch to a few different channels. When you tune each channel and get a good image, please also press Select twice on the Anthem remote to see what resolution the Anthem is receiving from the H20. Please report whether you are able to get good imaging from the different channels with the Anthem getting all three different resolutions -- 480i, 720p, and 1080i.


********************************************


NOTE: This idea of having to reset the H20 after you change it's output resolution settings may be the crucial step people are missing to get this to work. But what I'm afraid of is that when you reset the H20 you are also causing it to go back to its default mode for output resolution -- probably 480p only. So please do verify not only that you are getting good imaging on these different channels but also that you are getting the three different resolutions received in the Anthem -- and in particular that you are getting 1920x1080i/59.94Hz from some HDTV channels that are still showing a good image.


********************************************

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My display is a HC5000 PJ.
> 
> 
> Alvin



Alvin,

It would be interesting if you tried the custom resolution and timing settings that SFIELD found worked for his Pearl instead of the Anthem's built in settings for 1080p/24Hz output (see a few posts back from your initial post).


To set the custom resolution and timing settings you will need to use Live Video Settings Editor from your PC.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht

As to the bass problem, I'm wondering if it is software (DVD not Anthem) based. I tried 5 times to play "A Christmas Story" on Blu-ray, and got low but inaudible sound until I switched to bitstream. Disappointing to have to switch back and forth depending on movie. It's mono sound originally, which may have something to do with it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As to the bass problem, I'm wondering if it is software (DVD not Anthem) based. I tried 5 times to play "A Christmas Story" on Blu-ray, and got low but inaudible sound until I switched to bitstream. Disappointing to have to switch back and forth depending on movie. It's mono sound originally, which may have something to do with it.



If you are talking about playing a standard def DVD on your Blue Ray player then YES you want to send a bitstream to the Anthem.


If you tell the Blue Ray player to send PCM when playing standard def DVDs then it will decode what's on the DVD and may very well make a mistake. I suspect what happened for your mono movie is that the player failed to send over the center channel (which should have all the mono content) and was just sending the very much reduced audio via the L and R front speakers.


I believe all of these new format players have an "auto" option or some such to make it automatically send bitstreams when playing standard def DVDs and yet still send decoded multi-channel PCM when playing HD-DVD or Blue ray discs.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k

OK all four resolutions are active in Native Mode now. Image is perfect no problems. Resolution showing 1920x1080i/59.94Hz. I am able to switch to a 720x480i/59.94Hz channel and everything looks great as well. Can't find any native 720p channels to test. I can flip around till my hearts contents. No need for a work around.


I am trying to break it for ya!


I too wonder if maybe reseting the device reinitialized the HDMI handshake with the AVM-50, because remember before I did this I was not getting any picture at all besides the menus.


Sorry I am not able to reproduce this problem (Well not really







, but I would like to help)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK all four resolutions are active in Native Mode now. Image is perfect no problems. Resolution showing 1920x1080i/59.94Hz. I am able to switch to a 720x480i/59.94Hz channel and everything looks great as well. Can't find any native 720p channels to test. I can flip around till my hearts contents. No need for a work around.
> 
> 
> I am trying to break it for ya!
> 
> 
> I too wonder if maybe reseting the device reinitialized the HDMI handshake with the AVM-50, because remember before I did this I was not getting any picture at all besides the menus.
> 
> 
> Sorry I am not able to reproduce this problem (Well not really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I would like to help)



************************************************************ ***


+++++ POSSIBLE WORKAROUND FOR 1080i INPUT PROBLEM! +++++


************************************************************ ***


Folks, Darrell may have hit upon something important here!


He is using an H20 DirecTV HD satellite receiver. He reports he has been able to get "native" output resolution working at all resolutions -- including 1080i -- by doing a RESET of the H20 after setting up the "native" output resolutions.


Menu / Settings / Setup / Reset


This causes the H20 to do a reboot, but apparently preserves the desired output resolution settings, and the result includes good 1080i output.


If he turns on 1080i *WITHOUT* doing the Reset, things get screwed up.


*****************************************


We need someone else who has an H20, and also has this 1080i problem, to try this and see if it works in your setup as well.


It is also possible that folks having problems with other set top boxes may find a similar sort of thing works. After telling your set top box that you want to include 1080i output, do whatever the equivalent reboot function is in your set top box.


It is possible that doing this may fix a problem in the set top box itself, or may simply force the Anthem to start over from scratch in figuring out what type of signals it is getting from that box.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If he turns on 1080i *WITHOUT* doing the Reset, things get screwed up.
> 
> 
> --Bob



I just know that when I first connected the H20 up to the AVM50, I couldn't get any video until I reset the device. After I did that I was able to select and deselect any changes without a problem. I started out by just selecting 480i thinking that is all I would need. Well it wouldn't allow the 480i until I reset. Then once I was able to get that 480i I choose only 1080i. It wouldn't switch to 1080i until I reset the unit. That is when I realized that I needed to have all resolutions selected. So I did this and did another reset just for good measures. I am up and running with no problems.


Something to note though: my display has a max resolution of 1080i, I do not have a 1080p set. This may be a difference in other people having the problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, I gave it a shot. It installed without a problem on the first try - so that obviously got me excited. However, once I returned it to the HT again, the picture was still scrambled - even the menu display is scrambled. It's almost like I took a step back with these installs - when I first got the unit, the setup menu was visible at least. Oh well.



Don't give up! You may have a good re-install of the software with this latest try and just need to reset some Anthem settings. The fact that the menu display is screwed up is a good indication of this.


Try manually re-entering your Setup / Video Output settings in the Anthem. It is possible that they didn't survive the software installation, particularly because you had some aborted attempts earlier.


Even though you don't have good video on your display, you can do all the Setup menu stuff using the front panel display on the Anthem.


It may help to set the Anthem's output resolution to something else (i.e., 480p), accept that change, and then go back in and return it to what you really want to use with your display.


Also, double check the other Setup / Video Output settings such as Preferred = HDMI or Component (according to what you are using), and HDMI Sync, and Color Format.

--Bob


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't give up! You may have a good re-install of the software with this latest try and just need to reset some Anthem settings. The fact that the menu display is screwed up is a good indication of this.
> 
> 
> Try manually re-entering your Setup / Video Output settings in the Anthem. It is possible that they didn't survive the software installation, particularly because you had some aborted attempts earlier.
> 
> 
> Even though you don't have good video on your display, you can do all the Setup menu stuff using the front panel display on the Anthem.
> 
> 
> It may help to set the Anthem's output resolution to something else (i.e., 480p), accept that change, and then go back in and return it to what you really want to use with your display.
> 
> 
> Also, double check the other Setup / Video Output settings such as Preferred = HDMI or Component (according to what you are using), and HDMI Sync, and Color Format.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the reply, Bob.


I am not getting a picture on the AVM50 in any resolution setting. 720p, 1080i, 480i/p - it doesn't matter. If I set it to 720p the whole screen turns red. Currently I have it set to 1080i and the screen is blue, but the weird thing is that the sub menu that appears for volume control or status displays fine at the bottom of the screen. But the setup menu doesn't display at all. None of my sources appear either - I can't even see a 480p signal from the sat receiver anymore.


All I can guess is either I have a faulty piece or my initial software reinstall irrecoverably damaged some data.


I am using component as preferred, my color space is auto, but if I set it to HDTV the same thing happens.


For now I have my sources going directly into the tv (Sony Grand Wega 60) until a fix is issued or I get some attention from my dealer or anthem support. I've reinstalled 1.11 about 7 times with many factory resets to no avail and don't have access to 1.1 or 1.06 so I'm at my witts end for now.


I'm sure it'll work out eventually so I'll try to keep my spirits up! : )


----------



## rlockshin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ************************************************************ ***
> 
> 
> +++++ POSSIBLE WORKAROUND FOR 1080i INPUT PROBLEM! +++++
> 
> 
> ************************************************************ ***
> 
> 
> Folks, Darrell may have hit upon something important here!
> 
> 
> He is using an H20 DirecTV HD satellite receiver. He reports he has been able to get "native" output resolution working at all resolutions -- including 1080i -- by doing a RESET of the H20 after setting up the "native" output resolutions.
> 
> 
> Menu / Settings / Setup / Reset
> 
> 
> This causes the H20 to do a reboot, but apparently preserves the desired output resolution settings, and the result includes good 1080i output.
> 
> 
> If he turns on 1080i *WITHOUT* doing the Reset, things get screwed up.
> 
> 
> *****************************************
> 
> 
> We need someone else who has an H20, and also has this 1080i problem, to try this and see if it works in your setup as well.
> 
> 
> It is also possible that folks having problems with other set top boxes may find a similar sort of thing works. After telling your set top box that you want to include 1080i output, do whatever the equivalent reboot function is in your set top box.
> 
> 
> It is possible that doing this may fix a problem in the set top box itself, or may simply force the Anthem to start over from scratch in figuring out what type of signals it is getting from that box.
> 
> --Bob



Did areset and it did not help matters. In fact,now when I select 1080 ifrom the H20 menu it looks like my tv does not support the format.

When selecting formats,a quick test is run to see if tv supports that resolution. I cannot get a selected mak next to 1080i . I thought that I could before.

Any more ideas?


A side question, when you load new software into the D2 all settings are saved,I hope?


1080i is still an issue


----------



## neff2k

rlockshin,


When I select the resolution it then pops up a little window telling you to press the "Info" button on the H20's remote then it will select. Are you seeing the box about the "info" button?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply, Bob.
> 
> 
> I am not getting a picture on the AVM50 in any resolution setting. 720p, 1080i, 480i/p - it doesn't matter. If I set it to 720p the whole screen turns red. Currently I have it set to 1080i and the screen is blue, but the weird thing is that the sub menu that appears for volume control or status displays fine at the bottom of the screen. But the setup menu doesn't display at all. None of my sources appear either - I can't even see a 480p signal from the sat receiver anymore.
> 
> 
> All I can guess is either I have a faulty piece or my initial software reinstall irrecoverably damaged some data.
> 
> 
> I am using component as preferred, my color space is auto, but if I set it to HDTV the same thing happens.
> 
> 
> For now I have my sources going directly into the tv (Sony Grand Wega 60) until a fix is issued or I get some attention from my dealer or anthem support. I've reinstalled 1.11 about 7 times with many factory resets to no avail and don't have access to 1.1 or 1.06 so I'm at my witts end for now.
> 
> 
> I'm sure it'll work out eventually so I'll try to keep my spirits up! : )



The all blue screen is the default screen the Anthem puts up when it thinks it has no input video signal. I actually think you are pretty close to getting this working again.


Try this: Press the "Main" path button in the green portion at the top of the Anthem remote to make sure the Anthem's Main path is being controlled. Then press and hold the "Setup" button for about 5 seconds. Still no Setup screen? Is the front panel on the Anthem showing the first line of the Setup screen?


If you have the first line of the Setup menu in the front panel but still nothing on your TV except for the blue screen, the next step should be to Restore Factory Defaults. You will need to confirm you want to do this. Now this will cause you to lose your settings. If you had previously Saved your settings in the Setup screen you can Restore Saved User Settings, but if not you will need to re-enter settings manually.


Start with the Setup / Video Output menu and see if you can get your display live again with the Setup screen after restoring factory defaults.

--Bob


----------



## rlockshin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> rlockshin,
> 
> 
> When I select the resolution it then pops up a little window telling you to press the "Info" button on the H20's remote then it will select. Are you seeing the box about the "info" button?



On all resolutions except 1080i

It was working just fine on 1080i prior to adding the D2


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you are talking about playing a standard def DVD on your Blue Ray player then YES you want to send a bitstream to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> If you tell the Blue Ray player to send PCM when playing standard def DVDs then it will decode what's on the DVD and may very well make a mistake. I suspect what happened for your mono movie is that the player failed to send over the center channel (which should have all the mono content) and was just sending the very much reduced audio via the L and R front speakers.
> 
> 
> I believe all of these new format players have an "auto" option or some such to make it automatically send bitstreams when playing standard def DVDs and yet still send decoded multi-channel PCM when playing HD-DVD or Blue ray discs.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I tend to think you are correct on the PCM upsampling. Of course talking a Blu-ray disc vs std def, and it sounds like it did what you said, much reduced side and no center. I have a big Magnepan center that I actually notch a half db above sampled reference settings, so it wasn't lack of a speaker. I guess it may be the player (Samsung, which has no auto switch that I know of but I use a 59AVi for Std Def, but for Blu-ray it's going to a PS3 in the equipment room soon, just need to get a PS2to USB converter to get IR to work before I switch out the Sammy). I just assumed it was the disc itself and how it was mastered. Is there that much room for error going converting whatever CODECs to PCM?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A side question, when you load new software into the D2 all settings are saved,I hope?



A software install is supposed to preserve all settings, and in general it seems to do a pretty good job of that. The upgrade from V1.00 to V1.06 required manual re-entry of the Setup/Video Output settings.


You can also Save User Settings in the Anthem's Setup menu and these will survive a software upgrade.


You can also use Setup Editor to copy the Anthem settings to a file on the PC and to restore them after the upgrade. Be sure you use the latest version of Setup Editor as opposed to any older version you might have left around from a prior software installation.


When I did my upgrade from V1.06 to V1.11 I first saved settings to the PC with the new Setup Editor, then did a Restore Factory Defaults on the Anthem, then did the upgrade (worked first time), then did a Restore Factory Defaults again on the Anthem, and finally reloaded my Anthem settings from the saved file on the PC using Setup Editor.


I discovered that settings in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key on the remote) were *NOT* restored in this process. There were also a few odd settings in the new "inputs" (i.e., DVD2, DVD3, etc.) that are a new feature of the V1.10 software.


Other folks just install new software without doing any of this and have reported that their Anthem settings seem to survive this just fine.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I tend to think you are correct on the PCM upsampling. Of course talking a Blu-ray disc vs std def, and it sounds like it did what you said, much reduced side and no center. I have a big Magnepan center that I actually notch a half db above sampled reference settings, so it wasn't lack of a speaker. I guess it may be the player (Samsung, which has no auto switch that I know of but I use a 59AVi for Std Def, but for Blu-ray it's going to a PS3 in the equipment room soon, just need to get a PS2to USB converter to get IR to work before I switch out the Sammy). I just assumed it was the disc itself and how it was mastered. Is there that much room for error going converting whatever CODECs to PCM?



Not really room for error. There are standard chips used for these legacy, standard DVD formats now. But that Samsung player has had a load of problems so it wouldn't surprise me to discover it found a way to screw this up as well.


Again, when playing standard DVDs on these new style players, you ALWAYS want to send a bitstream to the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## rlockshin

When selecting 1080iscreen goes blue,box does not show. I push info ,then exit out and change to a non hd channel.

1080i is selected

I am restting now and will report my fidings.

I will switch to a 1080i channel and see what happens.

I would be shocked to see it work


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did areset and it did not help matters. In fact,now when I select 1080 ifrom the H20 menu it looks like my tv does not support the format.
> 
> When selecting formats,a quick test is run to see if tv supports that resolution. I cannot get a selected mak next to 1080i . I thought that I could before.
> 
> Any more ideas?
> 
> 
> A side question, when you load new software into the D2 all settings are saved,I hope?
> 
> 
> 1080i is still an issue



If you haven't already done so, try setting HDMI Repeater = NO in the Anthem's Setup/ Source Selection menu for that input. This keeps the source device (in this case the H20) from trying to handshake with the TV *THROUGH* the Anthem.


See if that gets you back to the point where you can select the 1080i option in the H20. Then do the H20 Reset again.

--Bob


----------



## rlockshin

NEGATIVE. 1080i still does not work

Any more ideas?


----------



## rlockshin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you haven't already done so, try setting HDMI Repeater = NO in the Anthem's Setup/ Source Selection menu for that input. This keeps the source device (in this case the H20) from trying to handshake with the TV *THROUGH* the Anthem.
> 
> 
> See if that gets you back to the point where you can select the 1080i option in the H20. Then do the H20 Reset again.
> 
> --Bob



See earlier post, I was able to select 1080i and with the reset problem still exists


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> NEGATIVE. 1080i still does not work
> 
> Any more ideas?



Drat! I guess we are back to waiting for Anthem on this.

--Bob


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The all blue screen is the default screen the Anthem puts up when it thinks it has no input video signal. I actually think you are pretty close to getting this working again.
> 
> 
> Try this: Press the "Main" path button in the green portion at the top of the Anthem remote to make sure the Anthem's Main path is being controlled. Then press and hold the "Setup" button for about 5 seconds. Still no Setup screen? Is the front panel on the Anthem showing the first line of the Setup screen?
> 
> 
> If you have the first line of the Setup menu in the front panel but still nothing on your TV except for the blue screen, the next step should be to Restore Factory Defaults. You will need to confirm you want to do this. Now this will cause you to lose your settings. If you had previously Saved your settings in the Setup screen you can Restore Saved User Settings, but if not you will need to re-enter settings manually.
> 
> 
> Start with the Setup / Video Output menu and see if you can get your display live again with the Setup screen after restoring factory defaults.
> 
> --Bob




Hey there! I gave it a shot. I am able to edit all the settings just fine using the front panel. Initially when I reset to factory defaults I got a lot of RED garbage and zigzags - sort of like a sync problem. I think tried every video output setting I could with no luck - similar but slightly different results on every rez. Never saw the menu. I then restored my previous settings and now I'm stuck with a red screen instead of a blue one! : ) Something is very very wrong.


Wayne


----------



## dmorse4765

I tried all of the above with my H20. At first it displayed a couple channels at 1080i but after flipping through several channels back to the garbage.


Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey there! I gave it a shot. I am able to edit all the settings just fine using the front panel. Initially when I reset to factory defaults I got a lot of RED garbage and zigzags - sort of like a sync problem. I think tried every video output setting I could with no luck - similar but slightly different results on every rez. Never saw the menu. I then restored my previous settings and now I'm stuck with a red screen instead of a blue one! : ) Something is very very wrong.
> 
> 
> Wayne



Sigh. You have tried both settings of HDMI Sync, correct?


The Red vs. Blue stuff is probably just the setting of Color Format (i.e, RGB vs. YCbCr) in the Video Output menu.


I'm sorry but I've run out of things to suggest. You may have a faulty video board. This one's going to have to be worked with Anthem directly.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> (Sony Grand Wega 60)



Is it SAFE to ASSUME you had your AVM50 connected to your

Sony TV via HDMI?


----------



## sfield

I have seen a few cases where HDMI video capability stops working period, regardless of input, even switching across multiple components. Power-cycling the Anthem (via the front panel) never fixed this problem, regardless of how many times I power-cycled.


On the rare cases when this situation occured, this situation was triggered by playing around with the active resolution of source components (eg: I accidentally changed the Toshiba HD-A1 to output 720p instead of 1080i, while watching a disc).


In my case, I just "hard" power-cycled the D2 with the rear on/off switch. This cleared up the problem.


There must be some state that is incorrectly initialized and preserved across the "soft" power cycles.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ************************************************************ ***
> 
> 
> +++++ POSSIBLE WORKAROUND FOR 1080i INPUT PROBLEM! +++++
> 
> 
> ************************************************************ ***
> 
> 
> Folks, Darrell may have hit upon something important here!
> 
> 
> He is using an H20 DirecTV HD satellite receiver. He reports he has been able to get "native" output resolution working at all resolutions -- including 1080i -- by doing a RESET of the H20 after setting up the "native" output resolutions.
> 
> 
> Menu / Settings / Setup / Reset
> 
> 
> This causes the H20 to do a reboot, but apparently preserves the desired output resolution settings, and the result includes good 1080i output.
> 
> 
> If he turns on 1080i *WITHOUT* doing the Reset, things get screwed up.
> 
> 
> *****************************************
> 
> 
> We need someone else who has an H20, and also has this 1080i problem, to try this and see if it works in your setup as well.
> 
> 
> It is also possible that folks having problems with other set top boxes may find a similar sort of thing works. After telling your set top box that you want to include 1080i output, do whatever the equivalent reboot function is in your set top box.
> 
> 
> It is possible that doing this may fix a problem in the set top box itself, or may simply force the Anthem to start over from scratch in figuring out what type of signals it is getting from that box.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sigh. You have tried both settings of HDMI Sync, correct?
> 
> 
> The Red vs. Blue stuff is probably just the setting of Color Format (i.e, RGB vs. YCbCr) in the Video Output menu.
> 
> 
> I'm sorry but I've run out of things to suggest. You may have a faulty video board. This one's going to have to be worked with Anthem directly.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob. I've tried it all. Thing is that I had similar symptoms to everyone else with this problem where everything is fine except for 1080 input - then I did the upgrade install and things got worse. It was working before with video output settings of 1080i, component preferred, etc.


Like I said before at least the audio is unaffected and those features are really what I bought the unit for.


Thanks for all of your help!!!


Wayne


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it SAFE to ASSUME you had your AVM50 connected to your
> 
> Sony TV via HDMI?




It is a first generation grand vega. I paid WAY too much for it but that is a different story!! It doesn't have hdmi so I am using component right now.


As soon as we get past this a conundrum I plan to start convincing the wife we need an upgrade. ; )


Wayne


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is a first generation grand vega. I paid WAY too much for it but that is a different story!! It doesn't have hdmi so I am using component right now.
> 
> 
> As soon as we get past this a conundrum I plan to start convincing the wife we need an upgrade. ; )
> 
> 
> Wayne


*Wayne* - I do not want to sound like a WISE GUY HERE.

*BUT THEREIN is YOUR PROBLEM.
*
*Page #8 of the MANUAL.
*

You do not have a HDCP Compliant Display.

Therefore you should be getting a Blue Screen

from the AVM50.


It should be EASY NOW to convince your wife.

It is all her fault your Vega is not HDCP Compliant.


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Wayne* - I do not want to sound like a WISE GUY HERE.
> 
> *BUT THEREIN is YOUR PROBLEM.
> *
> *Page #8 of the MANUAL.
> *
> 
> You do not have a HDCP Compliant Display.
> 
> Therefore you should be getting a Blue Screen
> 
> from the AVM50.
> 
> 
> It should be EASY NOW to convince your wife.
> 
> It is all her fault your Vega is not HDCP Compliant.




You my friend are a genius!!! hahaha


But of course, HDCP should only go into effect for HDCP compliant sources. I have none. All my sources are component based (sat, DVD, and Wii). But it is funny you should mention it. It does say sometimes rarely after a factory reset onscreen "macrovision protected 576p". Could be that the AVM thinks it is getting protected material when it isn't. Sorry I forgot to mention this in previous posts.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You my friend are a genius!!! hahaha
> 
> 
> But of course, HDCP should only go into effect for HDCP compliant sources. I have none. All my sources are component based (sat, DVD, and Wii). But it is funny you should mention it. It does say sometimes rarely after a factory reset onscreen "macrovision protected 576p". Could be that the AVM thinks it is getting protected material when it isn't. Sorry I forgot to mention this in previous posts.



Yes - Macrovision was invented LONG BEFORE

HDMI and HDCP. It is an analog version of

Copy protection versus the wonderful digital

version of HDCP you will LEARN TO LOVE AND

HATE [GRIN]!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You my friend are a genius!!! hahaha



Wayne - ONE LAST STUPID question!


When you did the software upgrade - you did use the AVM50

version 1.11 file and NOT the D2 version 1.11 file?


They are similar but different. I just did a file compare and

it came up with 24,000 differences.


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wayne - ONE LAST STUPID question!
> 
> 
> When you did the software upgrade - you did use the AVM50
> 
> version 1.11 file and NOT the D2 version 1.11 file?
> 
> 
> They are similar but different. I just did a file compare and
> 
> it came up with 24,000 differences.




Hey DrHankz,


Yeah - I used the avm50 upgrade. They do a really good job of keeping them separate on the website. Now one thing that did happen -> I did the install and got the OKI boot loader message. Not knowing what this meant I turned on the AVM and tried to set video output and got the scarmbled video. Maybe because I didnt get a complete install and then tried to use the device something became corrupted. I have lots of theories!


Wayne


----------



## neff2k

Question:


When I watch TV, I really only want the TV speakers on. Is there a setting to pass through Audio, but not process it?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey DrHankz,
> 
> 
> Yeah - I used the avm50 upgrade. They do a really good job of keeping them separate on the website. Now one thing that did happen -> I did the install and got the OKI boot loader message. Not knowing what this meant I turned on the AVM and tried to set video output and got the scarmbled video. Maybe because I didnt get a complete install and then tried to use the device something became corrupted. I have lots of theories!
> 
> 
> Wayne



It is the BIGGEST of No No's to touch the AVM50 or D2 until you

have a COMPLETE ERROR FREE Load. There is lots and lots of

HARDWARE LOGIC [aka FPGAs] that are getting reprogrammed

-- You can do some serious damage. Updating any FPGA Box is

not like loading software on RAM in your PC. FPGA is actually

PROGRAMMABLE HARDWARE not Software.


Good Luck with Anthem Tech Support, when they get back to work.


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is the BIGGEST of No No's to touch the AVM50 or D2 until you
> 
> have a COMPLETE ERROR FREE Load. There is lots and lots of
> 
> HARDWARE LOGIC [aka FPGAs] that are getting reprogrammed
> 
> -- You can do some serious damage. Updating any FPGA Box is
> 
> not like loading software on RAM in your PC. FPGA is actually
> 
> PROGRAMMABLE HARDWARE not Software.
> 
> 
> Good Luck with Anthem Tech Support, when they get back to work.




You're most likely right. But honestly I should have received a fully functional preamp when I pulled it from the box. And conversly should not have been compelled to do a software re-install in the first place. I almost (ALMOST!) feel ashamed that I have abandoned Lexicon for Anthem and now I'm paying my dues.


I'm good to go until they return - I guess I'll see what they say when they get back. Thanks for your help!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I almost (ALMOST!) feel ashamed that I have abandoned Lexicon for Anthem and now I'm paying my dues.
> 
> 
> I'm good to go until they return - I guess I'll see what they say when they get back. Thanks for your help!



I agree you should have a working unit out of the box

- no Issue there.


As for Abandoning Lexicon - that is not a MISTAKE.

I have owned EVERY Lexicon from the CP-1 to the

MC-12b. I live 20 miles from Lexicon. I know all the

guys there. I talked to them about the MC-12HD.

They convinced me to go with the Anthem D2.


No regrets at all - Now an Anthem Owner and NO

MORE Lexicon's in my future.


FYI - the *"Home Entertainment Magazine - Robb

Report"* December issue VOTED the Anthem D2

as the BEST Pre-Pro on the Planet. The Robb Report

only deals with high-end stratospheric Audio and

Video Gear and the D2 WON - against Lexicon, Krell,

Meridian, you name it.


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree you should have a working unit out of the box
> 
> - no Issue there.
> 
> 
> As for Abandoning Lexicon - that is not a MISTAKE.
> 
> I have owned EVERY Lexicon from the CP-1 to the
> 
> MC-12b. I live 20 miles from Lexicon. I know all the
> 
> guys there. I talked to them about the MC-12HD.
> 
> They convinced me to go with the Anthem D2.
> 
> 
> No regrets at all - Now an Anthem Owner and NO
> 
> MORE Lexicon's in my future.
> 
> 
> FYI - the *"Home Entertainment Magazine - Robb
> 
> Report"* December issue VOTED the Anthem D2
> 
> as the BEST Pre-Pro on the Planet. The Robb Report
> 
> only deals with high-end stratospheric Audio and
> 
> Video Gear and the D2 WON - against Lexicon, Krell,
> 
> Meridian, you name it.



I said "ALMOST!" haha The audio capabilities of the AVM 50 have floored me so far. I am just aghast at how much better the avm sounds compared to what I am used to.


Wayne


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I said "ALMOST!" haha The audio capabilities of the AVM 50 have floored me so far. I am just aghast at how much better the avm sounds compared to what I am used to.
> 
> 
> Wayne



Well I am use to an MC12b - and I am even MORE HAPPY

with the D2. [excuse the poor English - just trying to make a point]


----------



## sfield

No, using this approach to check for 24p Pearl "compliance" is not conclusive.

Even the 1080p24 setting builtin to the D2 shows up as memory location 14, yet these frequency settings are clearly off with respect to the Pearl.


The sony pearl manual appears to be in error on the frequency display. My projector does not display the HFreq or VFreq no matter what the input frequency is (even 1080p60). I suspect ths information may only be displayed if you are using an analog input.


Now that I've had more time to watch content, I have seen a couple of cases of jerkiness, even with the new timing values. However, the frequency is vastly reduced. I will keep researching the proper timing values.


Note that people with other high-end scalers feeding the Pearl (with Toshiba HD-A1) have reported success with 24p playback.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Whatever CUSTOM resolution you end up with.
> 
> 
> You should then go to the Pearl Menu - Display INFO.
> 
> 
> You want to see that it is USING ---
> *Memory Location 14*
> 
> and the
> *Horizontal Freq is 26.973*
> 
> and the
> *Vertical Freq is 23.976*
> 
> 
> If you get the numbers above - you should have
> 
> NO MORE PROBLEMS.
> 
> 
> or Double that if you are trying to do 48 fps - but
> 
> there is no MEMORY location in the Pearl Programmed
> 
> for 48 fps.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The sony pearl manual appears to be in error on the frequency display. My projector does not display the HFreq or VFreq no matter what the input frequency is (even 1080p60). I suspect ths information may only be displayed if you are using an analog input.



I know the Ruby is NOT a Pearl - but the Ruby INFO

box DOES Show both Horizontal and Vertical Frequencies.

*PAGE 52* of the *Pearl* Manual DOES SHOW the

Frequencies being Displayed?????????


YOURS Does Not????


I did notice a NOTE saying it may not be displayed - but

NO REASON for that note.


----------



## sfield

The Pearl does NOT show the frequency information for me.

I have never seen the frequency information displayed. Just the model number, serial number, memory setting index, description of memory location (eg: 24p), and number of lamp hours.


This is on HDMI input2.


Here are the latest CUSTOM resolution settings I am using. These have passed the previous tests I have performed. No jerkiness yet.


NEW 24p CUSTOM settings to try:


2200 horizontal total size

1920 horizontal active size

96 horizontal start sync

144 horizontal end sync


1125 vertical total size

1080 vertical active size

4 vertical start sync

9 vertical end sync


1080 field active size

45 field black (blank) size

0 offset


59340600 pixel clock rate


Drhankz, if you have a Ruby, can you try these custom 24p settings too?


Update: ARG, the video did hit a bit of jerkiness after submitting this, but it quickly recovered.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know the Ruby is NOT a Pearl - but the Ruby INFO
> 
> box DOES Show both Horizontal and Vertical Frequencies.
> 
> *PAGE 52* of the *Pearl* Manual DOES SHOW the
> 
> Frequencies being Displayed?????????
> 
> 
> YOURS Does Not????
> 
> 
> I did notice a NOTE saying it may not be displayed - but
> 
> NO REASON for that note.


----------



## rlockshin

If this question has been asked before, I apologize for the repetition.

When ou load in new software into the D2 are all of your settings saved or do you have to reprogram the unit?

I hope that it is like my DTV HR20 that keeps all settings

Thanks for the answer


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I am use to an MC12b - and I am even MORE HAPPY
> 
> with the D2.



So you're telling me that the Lexicon MC12b at 2 times the price of the Anthem D2 doesn't sound better?


So drhankz, if the Lexicon MC-12HD is not sounding better then the D2, can't process any video signal, can't pass 1080p... then why are people buying those for 2 times the price?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If this question has been asked before, I apologize for the repetition.
> 
> When ou load in new software into the D2 are all of your settings saved or do you have to reprogram the unit?
> 
> I hope that it is like my DTV HR20 that keeps all settings
> 
> Thanks for the answer



You should save settings before doing an upgrade, optimally in a PC file. There may be a time when you have to do a reset to originally config, then they will have to be saved externally. You can restore after an upgrade BUT with new features (e.g., when TV went to TV1, TV2, etc.) or even with no new features, some settings are not carried forward (this has been improving in subsequent updates, though). There is a high probability that you will most savings seamlessly saved, but make sure to save manually before an update. It's worth the piece of mind even if you don't have to restore from the backup.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So you're telling me that the Lexicon MC12b at 2 times the price of the Anthem D2 doesn't sound better?
> 
> 
> So drhankz, if the Lexicon MC-12HD is not sounding better then the D2, can't process any video signal, can't pass 1080p... then why are people buying those for 2 times the price?



I'm kind of curious about that myself!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Drhankz, if you have a Ruby, can you try these custom 24p settings too?



I Used the 1080p/48 parameters from Live Video Edit

on the Ruby and they worked PERFECTLY.


The Ruby will not recognize 1080p/24 - only 1080p/48.


If I do have the time - I will give it a whirl - But I expect

to see a black screen with Frequency out of range at

the Bottom left of the Screen. I'm familiar with that

ERROR MESSAGE!


However - I'll BET $100 bucks if someone can give me

access to programming the Memory Locations in the

Ruby - I can tune the Ruby up to accept 1080p/24.


I have the SERVICE Manuals for BOTH the Ruby and

Pearl and even the schematics. I'm disappointed that

nowhere in the SERVICE Manuals can I find the clue

to acces memory. I'm still on a mission to find that

clue.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So you're telling me that the Lexicon MC12b at 2 times the price of the Anthem D2 doesn't sound better?
> 
> 
> So drhankz, if the Lexicon MC-12HD is not sounding better then the D2, can't process any video signal, can't pass 1080p... then why are people buying those for 2 times the price?



So they can brag to their friends at Cocktail Parties

they spent $14,000 on a MC-12HD and it won't even

PASS 1080p - let alone Process any Video.


In Movie Content Mode - I give the D2 the Thumbs up.


I have not had time to get into ULTRA music mode to see

how the D2 stacks up to the MC-12b. But I'll bet it is a

darn close run off in MUSIC mode.


I DOUBT I would be able to tell the difference in a BLIND TEST.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If this question has been asked before, I apologize for the repetition.
> 
> When ou load in new software into the D2 are all of your settings saved or do you have to reprogram the unit?
> 
> I hope that it is like my DTV HR20 that keeps all settings
> 
> Thanks for the answer



As someone else said - you should save the settings.


I did the ugrade from 1.06 to 1.11 and not a SINGLE

setting changed.


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So you're telling me that the Lexicon MC12b at 2 times the price of the Anthem D2 doesn't sound better?
> 
> 
> So drhankz, if the Lexicon MC-12HD is not sounding better then the D2, can't process any video signal, can't pass 1080p... then why are people buying those for 2 times the price?



It's actually 3 times the price for their HD model.



Why do people choose coke over pepsi, sony over toshiba, toyota over honda, chevy over dodge, microsoft over nintendo? Simple answer is that we are addicted to brand -- even simpler answer -----> people are ___________.


Left blank as not to offend anyone else out there. : ) Those not easily offended, please feel free to insert your own text.


I've been a loyal Lexicon fan for some years but obviously with their recent pricing decisions they aren't interested in keeping people like me around. 14k for a preamp?????? no thanks.


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So you're telling me that the Lexicon MC12b at 2 times the price of the Anthem D2 doesn't sound better?
> 
> 
> So drhankz, if the Lexicon MC-12HD is not sounding better then the D2, can't process any video signal, can't pass 1080p... then why are people buying those for 2 times the price?



Three potential reasons:


-Reputation and name recognition (snobbery)

-Dealer margins (the dealers push them more)

-Customer brand loyalty


Unlike many here my system is audiophile oriented rather than HT oriented, even though my use is roughly 50-50. I am at heart an audiophile. My speakers are world class along with the amplification., I use a primium CD transport with a separate DAC and the D2 wouldn't be here if it didn't measurre up to the rest of the system.


I had the opportunity to audition the MC 12 HD side by side with the Anthem in my home. Many of you may remember the problems I had with my first two D2s and during that time a dealer was trying to move me up (?) to Lexicon so they loaned me the showroon MC12. The audio quality of the two units in two channel bypass with XLR connectiolns could not be differentiated on my system. They we ever so slightly different but neither was clearly better. So, I decided to stick with the D2, fight for another unit to see if it solved the HDMI issues I was experiencing. Fortunatly it did and now I am a gushing D2 owner even considering a 2d unit (or AVM 50) for another room in my new home.


----------



## LEVESQUE

I know. I was also able to compare the Lexicon MC-12B of one of my friend at my place, with the D2, a couple of months ago. My friend was so impressed with the D2 that he sold the Lex and the DVDO VP30 that he was using with it, bought a D2, and put ALOT of money in his pocket (since he sold the scaler also).


Like he said, sonically, the D2 is on par with the Lex, but the scaler in the D2 was better then the VP30. So the switch was easy to make.


But some people thinks that because the Lexicons are 2 times (3 times up here) the price of the Anthem D2, that it MUST be better. But it's not.


Logic7 didn't impressed me. Double differential DACs are just specs, and the end result is not better.


It's really sad that some people are thinking that the more money you pay, the better it will be. The D2 is an exception on the high-end market right now, and I know alot of Lexicon + scalers owners who made the switch to the D2 in the last months.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know. I was also able to compare the Lexicon MC-12B of one of my friend at my place, with the D2, a couple of months ago. My friend was so impressed with the D2 that he sold the Lex and the DVDO VP30 that he was using with it, bought a D2, and put ALOT of money in his pocket (since he sold the scaler also).



After talking to the Lexicon Engineers about the MC-12HD.


I sold my Lexicon MC-12b and my DVDO VP50 and Bought

my D2 with the money from the sales; and had a wee bit

left over. SO MY D2 was FREE. How can you beat that?

*I call that a MERRY CHRISTMAS.*


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I sold my Lexicon MC-12b and my DVDO VP50 and Bought
> 
> my D2 with the money from the sales; and had a wee bit
> 
> left over. SO MY D2 was FREE. How can you beat that?



You know it's impossible. The D2 can't be better then the Lex MC-12B + VP50...







You're just justifying the money you *saved* (I was about to say "the money you spent", but since you did put money back in your pocket...)


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You know it's impossible. The D2 can't be better then the Lex MC-12B + VP50...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're just justifying the money you *saved* (I was about to say "the money you spent", but since you did put money back in your pocket...)



I'm HAPPY with my D2 Choice. I'd even make the choice AGAIN

- even PAYING FOR IT IN FULL.


Heck when I had the MC-12b - I couldn't listen to Phamtom in HD without

Audio Drops outs over Optical Inputs. THAT is QUALITY [GRIN]?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You guys! Silly grins... Hopping up and down in glee...


OK, so you've dealt with Lexicon. But surely you realize the real competition is all the other "better sounding" pre-pros in Zissou's thread here.


[Stand's back to admire the fireworks....]


I enjoyed Logic-7 from my prior Lexicon. And if I only had the PLIIX stuff on the Anthem I'd be annoyed. Fortunately the mix of PLIIX and the Anthem Logic modes -- particularly with the PLIIX THX post processsing option -- covers the bases for movies, music and TV just fine.


So I suppose the lack of 8-channel PCM and deep color and, umm, lip lock over HDMI V1.3 is what's really going to give us all buyer's remorse. No wait! It's the lack of TrueHD decoding!


Excuse me, I need to get back to hopping and grinning.

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk

I was upgrading my D2 today and got the following error message FPGA configurator programming failed(error code=0Xffff). When the D2 boots says firmware is 1.11, but there is no picture. I get a message on the D2 that says no HDCP monitor found. I have audio, but no picture. Can I go back to a previous version? I am using the Radio Shack USB to serial aadapter which worked fine for the previous upgrade. i bought the Keyspan, but the mounting bolts get in the way. Hope I don't have to send it back. I reset to factory defaults.


Thanks,


Lou


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was upgrading my D2 today and got the following error message FPGA configurator programming failed(error code=0Xffff). When the D2 boots says firmware is 1.11, but there is no picture. I get a message on the D2 that says no HDCP monitor found. I have audio, but no picture. Can I go back to a previous version? I am using the Radio Shack USB to serial aadapter which worked fine for the previous upgrade. i bought the Keyspan, but the mounting bolts get in the way. Hope I don't have to send it back. I reset to factory defaults.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Lou



Lou,

You can definitely do a re-install of the older version if you want to.


However, this error commonly happens if you have a powered HDMI connection to the D2 when you try to do the install. Some HDMI devices are not really off when they look off, unless you pull the power plug or pull the HDMI cable.


I'd suggest that before going back, you try the V1.11 install again, but this time first power off the D2 and then disconnect any HDMI inputs or outputs. You can disconnect either end of the HDMI cable. Then try the V1.11 install again.


By the way, the mounting bolts are typically removable on things like the keyspan. And of course you can also put a serial cable between keyspan and the Anthem instead of connecting it directly to the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, so you've dealt with Lexicon. But surely you realize the real competition is all the other "better sounding" pre-pros in Zissou's thread here.
> 
> 
> [Stand's back to admire the fireworks....]
> 
> 
> So I suppose the lack of 8-channel PCM and deep color and, umm, lip lock over HDMI V1.3 is what's really going to give us all buyer's remorse. No wait! It's the lack of TrueHD decoding!
> 
> 
> Excuse me, I need to get back to hopping and grinning.
> 
> --Bob



Bob! Ouch! I didn't knew you had a "nasty" side!







I like it!


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I Used the 1080p/48 parameters from Live Video Edit
> 
> on the Ruby and they worked PERFECTLY.
> 
> 
> The Ruby will not recognize 1080p/24 - only 1080p/48.



Drhankz, are you getting 1080p/48 by using the DVI input? I thought the HDMI input would not accept 48 Hz. Or is it through creating a custom setting through Live Video Settings editor? Inquiring minds want to know...


I would like to eventually try the 48 Hz setting with my Ruby since the D2 is such a champ at processing and transcoding.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Drhankz, are you getting 1080p/48 by using the DVI input? I thought the HDMI input would not accept 48 Hz. Or is it through creating a custom setting through Live Video Settings editor? Inquiring minds want to know...
> 
> 
> I would like to eventually try the 48 Hz setting with my Ruby since the D2 is such a champ at processing and transcoding.



Yes as of TODAY it is 1080p/48 over DVI.


Despite what Sony may say - After reviewing the Sony Service

manuals and schematics for both the Ruby and Pearl - I feel

pretty safe in predicting the Ruby can accept 1080p/48 over

HDMI. HOWEVER - That requires a change in DISPLAY Memory

parameters that I have yet to figure out [and SONY will not

Support] how to make those chages.


----------



## nine ball

*******PLEASE NOTE ********


If you take a look at the thread stats, this thread has a very high ratio of contributors (and benefactors) to page views BUT there is considerable evidence to a fair number of anonymous lurkers who i assume are learning, researching and improving their enjoyment of this fabulous hobby(obsession). It is to this silent population that I now speak.......


Please do not misinterpret our enthusiasm and passion for this technology as blind loyalty to a particular brand. To a man(person) we would jump to something better if it were available, and for some of us that includes options at any price! In a sense, the majority of sensible active participants on this particular thread are on a life long quest for the AV holy grail...........finding a way to fit the entire Boston Pops orchestra in our living rooms live, unplugged and on demand!

Do not let our tendency to analyze just how many angels we can get to dance on the head of a pin diminish just how truly remarkable this technology is and your potential enjoyment of it. A number of the strongest proponents, including myself, have no involvement in the industry other than our passion for excellence. We come to these conclusions honestly and as many would have observed are truly tough critics even to that which we admire and respect.

I am 60 years old having achieved that status in spite of nurse ratshit's attempts to kill me on the treadmill. I have been involved with the arts and addicted to consumer electronics for at least 52 of those years that I can still remember. The life long pursuit of those very special moments of inner peace that come in achieving a certain level of audio/video performance have never been closer than with the D2 paired with the P5/P2 and I honestly believe I am still at the bottom of the hill as I have yet to properly calibrate my equipment. So with no shares in Anthem, and certainly no hope of beginning a second career at my age I urge anyone sitting on the fence to make the plunge. The result will pierce your heart with the audio and immediately mend it with the video!


Peter


ps. Bob Pariseau, Alain Levesque, and drhankz........thank you for your influence, patience and support of alot of dumb questions! My passion and desire for this hobby has been enhanced a thousand fold! May this holiday bring the best to you all!!!!!!


and to Anthem........keep up the good work and do not drop the ball......we are not a forgiving group!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> .we are not a forgiving group!



Maybe a New Year's Resolution is in ORDER


Maybe we should be a FORGIVING Group [GRIN]!


----------



## nine ball

after we get the promised audio calibration stuff............


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> after we get the promised audio calibration stuff............
> 
> 
> Peter



I never made that PROMISE!


Did YOU?


I calibrated my Theater myself.


It sounds the way I WANT IT not some Dumb Computer [GRIN]!


WHO IS IN CHARGE HERE [GRIN]?


----------



## nine ball

yes Hank but you have a five thousand year head start on the rest of us!


I have to go and start my Christmas shopping now.......I've decided that this year I'm not leaving it to the last minute!


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> yes Hank but you have a five thousand year head start on the rest of us!
> 
> 
> I have to go and start my Christmas shopping now.......I've decided that this year I'm not leaving it to the last minute!
> 
> 
> Peter



$5000 Head Start - Where Did you get that IDEA [GRIN]?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well here's to the folks at Anthem who are working to fix the current issues despite the press of other, holiday priorities. I've been there guys. Don't think it goes unappreciated.


As for future stuff, I'm reminded that baseball umpires all know you are expected to start out perfect and then get better. Let's hope Anthem has the same drive to produce perfection for these two products over the next year. If so, it won't be because of the pay or the prestige. It will be because a lot of people worked very hard at something they love.


For now, I'm signing off for a day or so. Here's hoping Christmas is everything you'd wish it be, for you and all those you hold dear.

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lou,
> 
> You can definitely do a re-install of the older version if you want to.
> 
> 
> However, this error commonly happens if you have a powered HDMI connection to the D2 when you try to do the install. Some HDMI devices are not really off when they look off, unless you pull the power plug or pull the HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> I'd suggest that before going back, you try the V1.11 install again, but this time first power off the D2 and then disconnect any HDMI inputs or outputs. You can disconnect either end of the HDMI cable. Then try the V1.11 install again.
> 
> 
> By the way, the mounting bolts are typically removable on things like the keyspan. And of course you can also put a serial cable between keyspan and the Anthem instead of connecting it directly to the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob




Bob, Thanks for the input. I re-installed v1.06 to play it safe and disconnected all HDMI sources, not good enough to just turn them off as the manual describes. All is well, will try again tomorrow.


Thanks,


lou


----------



## yatchaks

Well said guys. It's now time to play some Christmas music, spend time with the family, and wait for Santa










Happy Holidays boys,


Mark


----------



## abc999

I use an old desktop with RS232 whenever I make a firmware change with the AVM50. The upgrades were unproblematic with this procedure. It is just too cumbersome bringing the whole destop to the other room and do this. Is it possible to use my laptop and a USB to RS232 cable instead for the Live video editor?


----------



## m396 #00-011

1st off, Merry Christmas!


However, I seem to have the same issue with my new AVM50 v1.11 on 1080i input source material.


From what I understand, this is a new issue with the latest software. Is there an older version of software we can load on the AVM50 so it does work, until the latest fix is available?


I'm glad I saw this thread before I even tried to hook it up, otherwise I would be pulling my hair out trying to figure out what I did wrong....

*Update...I* downloaded the v1.11 from the Anthem website and tried a reload. Unfortunitly, it is now worse, way worse. I currently can't get any processed signal through, not just 1080i, now on 480i/p, 720p, etc....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> NEW 24p CUSTOM settings to try:
> 
> 
> 2200 horizontal total size
> 
> 1920 horizontal active size
> 
> 96 horizontal start sync
> 
> 144 horizontal end sync
> 
> 
> 1125 vertical total size
> 
> 1080 vertical active size
> 
> 4 vertical start sync
> 
> 9 vertical end sync
> 
> 
> 1080 field active size
> 
> 45 field black (blank) size
> 
> 0 offset
> 
> 
> 59340600 pixel clock rate
> 
> 
> Drhankz, if you have a Ruby, can you try these custom 24p settings too?



I did give your Custom Settings a TRY.


As expected - I got the blue screen and Freq Out Of Range Error.


I also tried the clock rate at 118681200 with the same result.


HOWEVER - The Ruby still displays both frequencies even with the

Blue Screen. I did notice with your settings - the frequency was a

tad bit low of the 24 Hz refresh rate. I expect that is why you still

get occasional jerkiness.


I'm convinced the RUBY will accept almost any input and display

it properly - IF - I can change a memory location to get the

appropriate match.


WHY don't standard 24Hz or 48Hz settings work for YOU?


----------



## KCWolfPck

I got my AVM-50 all set-up yesterday. I haven't delved much into the video calibration, but I'm very impressed so far (upgraded from a B&K Ref 50). I was able to update the firmware from 1.06 to 1.11 (after about 4 tries using a Radio Shack USB->DB9 converter).


I use a DirecTV HR20 for satellite viewing and I have not had any problems yet with 1080i as reported by others (I have the HR20 set to output native). The only problem I ran into while hooking everything up was with my XBox 360. Since my TV accepts 1080p via component (Sammy HL-S6187W), my 360 was set to output 1080p. I wasn't getting a picture when I hooked it up to my AVM-50, so it took me a few minutes to realize that the AVM-50s component inputs must not accept 1080p.


The next thing I need to fix is programming my Harmony 880 to control the AVM-50. The codes that are in Harmony's database don't all work properly (i.e. click volume up and the volume goes up about 5dB; you can't press and hold 7 for scaler menu, etc...)


This brings me to my question. Did any of you Harmony users have difficulties programming it to control your AVM-50/D2? Did you manually learn all of the commands? Were you able to program it so if you clicked it once or press and hold, it would work the same as the remote that came with it?


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

KC,

The AVM-50 allows Component 1080p, but only as an unprocessed "pass through" signal -- i.e., it will just switch the selected input to the output without touching it in any way: No video adjustments, no changing of frame rate between /60 Hz and /24Hz, no overlay of AVM-50 displays, and no transcoding of that Component input to the HDMI output.


Cable your Component in from that device. Add Component out cables to your TV (from the Anthem's "Main" Component output) in addition to your normal HDMI out. For that input's Setup in the Anthem, send nothing to the scaler and specify the correct Component jacks as input in the Component input line.


To use that input, select it on the Anthem and then also switch your TV to it's Component input instead of HDMI input.


If you want both processed and unprocessed video from that source device, another way to do it is to adjust the Anthem's input Setup to send the Component input to the scaler (which will produce processed output on HDMI for the "Main" path, so long as the input signal is 1080i or lower), and also specify that input on the Component input line. Then set Zone 2 output to be the "unprocessed" version of the Main input. This time run Component out cables to your TV from the Anthem's Zone 2 outputs.


When you select that source device, 1080i or lower signals will be processed and sent to your TV's HDMI input. Meanwhile, unprocessed signals, all the way up to 1080p/60Hz will also be sent out the Zone 2 output's Component cables to your TV's Component input. Select the correct input on the TV and you are set.


=============================================


EDITED TO ADD: It occurs to me that Scale Output = BYPASS in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the 7 key) may also give you what you want for Component 1080p pass through. That could make the processed and unprocessed configuration simpler if it works. I haven't actually tried to set this up myself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The next thing I need to fix is programming my Harmony 880 to control the AVM-50. The codes that are in Harmony's database don't all work properly (i.e. click volume up and the volume goes up about 5dB; you can't press and hold 7 for scaler menu, etc...)
> 
> 
> This brings me to my question. Did any of you Harmony users have difficulties programming it to control your AVM-50/D2? Did you manually learn all of the commands? Were you able to program it so if you clicked it once or press and hold, it would work the same as the remote that came with it?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I believe you have to reduce the number of repetitions the harmony sends each time you press a harmony key. While you are at it, reduce the delay it inserts between codes sent for each key press and between codes going from one device to codes going to another. As I understand it all of these are global settings affecting all devices the harmony is controlling and they are set ridiculously high by default to cover slow-witted devices.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did notice with your settings - the frequency was a
> 
> tad bit low of the 24 Hz refresh rate. I expect that is why you still
> 
> get occasional jerkiness.
> 
> 
> I'm convinced the RUBY will accept almost any input and display
> 
> it properly - IF - I can change a memory location to get the
> 
> appropriate match.
> 
> 
> WHY don't standard 24Hz or 48Hz settings work for YOU?



Here's a link to a post I made earlier in this thread about why the correct frame rate for film based content destined for NTSC TVs is actually 23.976fps instead of 24fps:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9211974 


In SFIELD's latest suggested settings, the image, 1920 x 1080 "active" pixels, is embedded in a larger frame of 2200 x 1125 imaginary pixels. The difference between 2200 and 1920 is the "horizontal blanking" interval between each line -- basically a time out, 280 imaginary pixels long, for the TV to get ready to process the next line -- and the difference between 1120 and 1080 is the "vertical blanking" interval, 45 imaginary lines long (of 2200 completely imaginary pixels each), during which the TV gets ready to process the first real line of the next frame. Sync processing happens during those blanking intervals, and basically clues in the TV to when the first real pixel display starts on each extended line and when the first real line starts at the top of the extended frame.


Even though there are no real pixels during the blanking intervals, it is convenient to think of a continuous stream of pixels arriving at a constant rate -- some of which are just "blanked out". And that's what the pixel clock rate is: The number of real plus imaginary pixels that arrive during each second of time.


Thus 2200 x 1125 x 23.976 = 59340600 is the number of pixel time steps that happen for SFIELD's frame size at a 23.976fps frame rate.


For a 24.000fps frame rate, just do the math.


[NOTE: The blanking intervals are not completely wasted space these days. Non-imaging data is often hidden in there. That's where "closed captioning" text resides for example. And HDMI audio is also multiplexed in there, which is why the bandwidth of HDMI audio is limited by the currently selected bandwidth of HDMI video as people trying to play SACD audio over HDMI 480i connections have discovered. If your TV has no overscan, i.e., if it shows every last pixel with none concealed behind the edges of the screen, you may see such non imaging data as noise at the very top or bottom of an SDTV broadcast signal. SDTV stations expect people to be using cheap TVs with overscan and thus they steal some of the real "active" image frame to put in extra data -- often control signals between the networks and the local stations.]


As I said in my earlier post referenced above, the TV shouldn't be that sensitive to whether the incoming rate is 23.976fps or 24.000fps since the sync signals should cover that. There's some timing flexibility built in since not all devices will have perfect clocks.


However the blanking intervals and sync locations must be right or lines or frames might be misprocessed.


Anthem has not provided documentation on setting this stuff up, but I suspect we can find reference info in the video processor forum here.


It appears to me that the last settings (field size, field blanking, and offset) most likely have to do with whether the signal is Progressive, Interlaced, or Progressive Segmented Frame.


As I understand it, Progressive is all lines followed by a vertical blanking interval. Interlaced is odd lines (the first "field") followed by a blanking interval and then even lines (the second "field") followed by a blanking interval. The two "fields" each hold half the lines and the field rate is, of course, twice the frame rate. Progressive Segmented Frame is odd lines, followed by even lines, follwed by a blanking interval. The data arrives in the same order as an interlaced signal but there is only one blanking interval.


It is easier for cheap electronics to turn Progressive Segmented Frame into Interlaced than it would be to do the same with straight Progressive, so, for example storage media like DVDs record the data in Progressive Segmented Frame format even if both fields of each frame have actually been recorded at the same point in time (as when digitizing a frame of film) as opposed to separated in time (as when recorded by a TV camera). Blanking intervals are of course not something stored on the storage media. They are generated by the output circuit of whatever is reading that media.


In SFIELD's settings, I believe his "Field Size" of 1080 indicates that this is a Progressive signal -- all 1080 lines before any blanking interval. His 45 Field Black size is the vertical blanking interval again, and the Offset of 0 indicates the Field and Frame are aligned. For an Interlaced signal I believe the Field Size would then be 960. And I suspect the Offset would be used to differentiate Progressive from Progressive Segmented Frame. But these are just guesses.


So the TV is going to need a signal which presents the real "active" pixels embedded in a larger imaginary frame of the right size, with sync occurring at the right points during the horizontal and vertical blanking so that the TV is ready to process sync and still has enough time after sync to get set before the next real pixel arrives, and with the data organized in the format it expects (i.e., progressive, interlaced, or progressive segmented frame).

--Bob


----------



## mjavman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Drat! I guess we are back to waiting for Anthem on this.
> 
> --Bob



Finally a minute to post, holidays with house full of relatives, sorry for no report everyone.


I no long have the 1080i issue.


First, I have a new D2 with factory installed 1.11. When I first set up my H20, I had the 1080i issues. I setup the H20 and told it my TV only did 480i and 720p. I had to reset my box after the "activation" as all my channels were not coming in. The next day (last saturday) I thought, well lets give it a try: VIOLA 1080i did work. I now have the H20 set to native and output either 480i, 720p, or 1080i. I do notice that the sequencing has something to do with it. If the D2 is off and the h20 is on, once the D2 is started up, I have problems with the H20. If I reverese the sequence, D2, wait, then H20, no problems.


RLOCKSHIN - I have a direct dial to a tech support guy at Anthem. My dealer called Bob McConell this morning not knowing I had fixed the problem, and he told me that BOB wanted to make sure everything was working. PM me if you want the number....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjavman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Finally a minute to post, holidays with house full of relatives, sorry for no report everyone.
> 
> 
> I no long have the 1080i issue.
> 
> 
> First, I have a new D2 with factory installed 1.11. When I first set up my H20, I had the 1080i issues. I setup the H20 and told it my TV only did 480i and 720p. I had to reset my box after the "activation" as all my channels were not coming in. The next day (last saturday) I thought, well lets give it a try: VIOLA 1080i did work. I now have the H20 set to native and output either 480i, 720p, or 1080i. I do notice that the sequencing has something to do with it. If the D2 is off and the h20 is on, once the D2 is started up, I have problems with the H20. If I reverese the sequence, D2, wait, then H20, no problems.
> 
> 
> RLOCKSHIN - I have a direct dial to a tech support guy at Anthem. My dealer called Bob McConell this morning not knowing I had fixed the problem, and he told me that BOB wanted to make sure everything was working. PM me if you want the number....



Very interesting!


Given that you have noticed a dependency on the order of power up, this could be just another, more subtle, example of the D2 not quite initializing itself properly at power up.


The most visible example of this is that the Scale Output setting for the last used input prior to power down is changed to a different value (e.g., Anamorphic vs. Letter/Pillar Box) at power up.


I also believe the fact that my Fujitsu plasma no longer recognizes the D2 as a recently seen HDMI device on its DVI input (as evidenced by it not auto-loading the correct Fujitus settings for that device) is another case of this.


The cure for some of these video related power up problems has been to briefly power the D2 off and then back on again. However if your problem requires the H20 to be powered up last then that won't work unless you also power off the H20 first.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Update...I* downloaded the v1.11 from the Anthem website and tried a reload. Unfortunitly, it is now worse, way worse. I currently can't get any processed signal through, not just 1080i, now on 480i/p, 720p, etc....



You and VCS_WHARVEY should contact Anthem tech support directly. It is unlikely you both have failed video boards. It is far more likely that Anthem needs to get you a better version of the software installer.


As I understand it, both of you had your last software install of V1.11 go to completion without error, and now you have no video through the scaler. I suspect that though the software install went cleanly, there is some piece of initialization for the scaler that is not being set properly on power up, and so it is picking up random stuff left in memory and getting confused.


Anthem can likely provide you with the AVM-50 V1.06 installer in the interim, if they don't already have a fix for this. I don't have any of the AVM-50 software.

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio

Hello Guys. I need help. First I am new to AVS so bear with me...as I know this thread is advanced beyond my newness in higher-end AV stuff.


Anyhow, I upgraded my HT to separates recently (about 1 week ago)...and I am trying to get the most out of my AVM-50 (I bought an MCA20 and an MCA50 to match the pre/pro). From a sound stanpoint, I couldn't be happier - it absolutely blows away the Integra DTR 6.5 I used to use.


The reason for the posting is that I want to get the most out of the video processing of the unit. Currently my display is a Mitsubishi 73" diamond series DLP - which obviously accepts HDMI and 1080p signals. I have a Motorola digital comcast cable box - I am using HDMI from the cable box to the AVM 50. I am using a 12 meter audioquest HDMI cable which is rated to run 1080p. Anyhow, the only video ouptut (from the AVM-50) setting which seems to work best is the 1280 x 720p.


My questions are:

1) How do I get the most out of the cable box picture

2) Should I upgrade to version 1.11? I currently have v1.10

3) If I just use component cables for video - could this help (due to potential HDMI limitations of the cable box?)


I haven't really "messed" with any other settings. I called the Anthem tech. support guy earlier today and haven't heard back from him yet. I left the color output to "auto." I am new at this and thanks for your help.


----------



## gdc




ddimberio said:


> My questions are:
> 
> 1) How do I get the most out of the cable box picture
> 
> 2) Should I upgrade to version 1.11? I currently have v1.10
> 
> 3) If I just use component cables for video - could this help (due to potential HDMI limitations of the cable box?)
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> 1. Cable box to AVM-50 should be HDMI if possible (my own opinion). If not, component will work fine as there is no limitation to 480i/p as there is with commercial DVDs. The quality difference should be minimal assuming all cables are decent. Make sure the cable box is sending either 1080i or a native passthrough.
> 
> 
> 2. Stick with 1.10. Nick at Anthem said 1.11 didn't have anything new, just a new installer program (that did NOT work for me). There is supposed to be an imminent 1.12 that might have improvements.
> 
> 
> If your Mitsubishi truly accepts 1080p, that is what you want to send out of the Anthem. That will give you the best picture quality.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ddimberio,

Set up the TV side of things first. The Anthem will generate video signals for you to do this so you don't need any source devices to do this.


First you need to figure out the "native" resolution of your DLP TV. That's the actual, physical pixel matrix in its hardware. Your TV will convert (scale) other sizes of signal to that native resolution, so don't confuse the native resolution with the various different types of signals the TV will accept. What you are looking for is the resolution it converts them to for display. That may very well be 1920 x 1080p/60Hz, but check the manual specs to be sure.


You will want to set the Anthem to your TV's "native" resolution, if it will, indeed also accept that as an input resolution, or to the nearest resolution it will accept otherwise. The Anthem's job is to convert all incoming video to that "best" resolution for your TV so that your TV's electronics have the least amount of work to do.


Before you do that, prepare your TV for best quality imaging. Do this by turning off what are called the "torch mode" settings that likely came as the factory defaults. The torch mode settings produce an overly bright/contrasty, overly red, and overly sharpness enhanced image at too high (too blue) a color temperature. These settings produce an eye catching image in garish store lighting but they are way wrong for best viewing. There are also several image "enhancement" features typically turned on by default that will really just get in the way of good viewing. They are designed to help deal with crappy signals (which you won't have) and the bad level settings most owners use.


Find a "picture mode" in your TV labeled something like "movies". That's the one to use. Avoid anything labeled something like Vivid, Vibrant, Dynamic, Games, Scorch your Eyeballs, or the like. If you have two possible picture modes to choose between, pick the one that produces the darker and softer lookin image.


IMPORTANT NOTE: Do NOT just assume you can modify any picture mode into the equivalent of a different picture mode such as "movies" simply by adjusting the TV's level settings. In modern TVs these picture modes often make additional, secret setting changes behind your back that you can not alter with the user controls. Find the "movies" picture mode and start from there.


Having picked the right picture mode, turn off enhancements like "flesh tone correction", automatic brightness adjustment, SVM (velocity modulation -- it's awful, don't ask), noise reduction, or detail enhancement. Turn them all off and leave them off.


Look for a setting for "Color Temperature". You will likely need to set it to produce a more reddish cast to whites than the factory default. This is often confusingly labeled "warmer" (for the reddish tone) even though it really corresponds to a lower (i.e, cooler) Color Temperature. By default this is usually set too blue because that setting trick's the shopper's eyes into thinking the screen is brighter -- and then the factory compensates by pushing red color in other settings. If you have a Color Temperature setting marked 6500K or SMPTE STANDARD that's the one you want.


Finally set Brightness, Contrast, Color, Tint, and Sharpness all to the mid range values. Again, the factory default settings, even in the "movies" mode, are likely to be WRONG.


----------------------------------------------------------


Having prepped your TV, now go to the Anthem Setup / Video Output menu.


The first order of business is getting the right resolution output to your TV. Set PREFERRED=HDMI and set the "native" resolution (e.g., 1920x1080p/60Hz if that's what you found in the TV specs). Set Color Space to HDTV and set Color Format to YCbCr 4:4:4 (to start -- you might decide later that 4:2:2 looks better). Set Sync = Normal.


Back out of that menu and Accept those changes. The Anthem Setup screen should now appear centered on your TV as a reddish screen with text on it.


If it doesn't appear, or is shifted horizontally by, say 1/3 of the screen, then go back into the Setup / Video Output menu and change to Sync=Inverted and try again.


If you can't get your TV to display it's "native" resolution from the Anthem then something is wrong. Either your cable is bad or you misread the TV manual as to its actual "native" resolution and which resolution it will accept as input that is closest to that. Again, don't get confused just because your TV will accept another resolution such as 720p. Your TV is designed to do the same sort of scaling the Anthem does, although not as well, so it will accept a variety of different resolutions. But the one YOU want to use from the Anthem is your TV's "native" resolution or as close as you can get to it.


--------------------------------------------------------------


Once you have the TV displaying its "native" resolution from the Anthem then you are ready for the next step.


Back out of the Setup menu entirely. If you have no video coming in from a source you should now see an all blue screen -- the Anthem's default screen when it has no video input. Now press and hold the "7" key on the Anthem remote until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up.


That menu should be crisp and centered -- black text on a grayish background with some colored labels. If not, then you have a problem. Recheck your Setup / Video Output settings.


If so, now go to the Info panel in that menu. Double check that the output resolution and format it says you are sending to your TV is what you told it to send.


Now go to the Patterns panel on that menu and bring up any of the bar charts. They should fill the screen. Use the Back button to exit the bar pattern.


If all this is right then your video output signal is setup just fine and you can proceed to setting the "levels" on your TV.


Bring up the SMPTE test pattern, called "Color Bars" in that menu.


Remember that you have previously set all the level controls in your TV to their mid-point. You are now going to set them properly.


It is best to do this in a dimly lit room.


The Contrast setting controls white levels. Adjust it either side of mid-point until you find a pleasing light level for whites in the test pattern, without their looking grayish. For your HDMI input, that may very well just be the mid-point position. The correct setting will likely be quite a bit lower than the factory default, since that is set for more garish room lighting.


Next use the Brightness setting to control black levels. The Anthem V1.1x manual tells you how to do that using the near black fields in the lower right of the SMPTE chart.


Brightness and Contrast interact so you may want to iterate a bit on this.


Now go to the gray bars test patten and verify that all the bars are distinguishable -- i.e., you haven't got some bars near black or near white merging together so that you can't tell them apart. If there's a problem, adjust white levels with Contrast and then go back to the SMPTE chart to re-adjust black levels with Brightness.


[NOTE: Using source device test patterns -- as from a calibration DVD disc -- you will be able to later refine your Brightness and Contrast settings, as well as being able to verify that Blacker than Black and Peak White data are being properly handled. But that's for later.]


Now you need to adjust the color settings in your TV. This is best done with the aid of a blue gelatin filter which you will find included with any of the calibration DVD discs you can buy such as Avia, or Digital Video Essentials (DVE). You'll need a calibration disc when setting up your DVD player, so get one if you don't already have one.


[NOTE: If you don't have a blue gelatin filter yet, you can adjust Color and Tint in your TV by eye while watching TV later, but you will be amazed how much better it looks when you eventually do it "right" with the filter. Modern digital TVs are finicky about correct level settings. Or to put it another way, the difference between "right" and "nearly right" is likely to be a LOT greater than what you are used to from older TVs.]


The Color setting controls color saturation (brilliance). The Tint setting controls the bias towards Red or Green. Look through the blue filter at the SMPTE test chart and follow the instructions in the Anthem manual to adjust your Color and Tint properly. Basically what you are looking for is the amount of Blue that's added in as part of making up white. When White and Blue look the same brightness when viewed through the blue gelatin filter then that's set right. Similarly you look at the blue contribution to magenta and cyan, again through the blue filter, and adjust Tint until they match.


Color and Tint also interact, so you will need to take some time to iterate and find the best setting. You will also have red and green gelatin filters in your calibration DVD stuff. Look at the SMPTE pattern through those and notice that for each filter there's a DIFFERENT pair of primary colors that match (and vary as the Color setting changes) and also of secondary colors that match (and are controlled with Tint). The best settings of Color and Tint through each filter may differ a bit. You may prefer the Color and Tint setting which seems the best "compromise" setting -- not perfect for any gelatin filter, but pretty close for all three.


Finally adjust your TV's Sharpness setting. The best way to do this, for now, is to Back out of the SMPTE chart and look at menu text in the Video Source Adjust menu. You want vertical black edges to look crisp but without any hint of a slightly brighter "halo" to either side of them. Run Sharpness up and down to see how the appearance of text changes. The correct setting is likely to be in the lower 1/3 of the available range of settings, and is also likely to be WELL below the factory default value.


IMPORTANT NOTE: The correct, "calibrated" settings for your TV may result in imaging that is darker and softer than you are used to, and possibly with a more reddish cast to it. Take some time to get used to these settings. Properly calibrated settings really are better. You will see more natural imagery and more real detail once you get over the surprise at how different they are. Feel free to adjust things to your taste after you've had some time to view different programs, but always refer back to your "calibrated" settings. Over time, if you are like most people, you will find your taste preferences converging on the "calibrated" settings.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Once you've got the Anthem sending a good "native" resolution signal to your TV and you've got the levels set on your TV, then the TV side of things is DONE! It is the Anthem's job to convert all input video to your selected output settings in the best possible way -- dealing automatically with all the various technical differences between inputs.


You may find that you need to vary levels for different source devices. If so, do NOT do that using the TV's settings. The TV's settings are now "right" for the video coming from the Anthem. Instead make adjustments in the Anthem's INPUT settings for each source device -- again in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key).


[NOTE: As you get more used to adjusting settings, and using tools like a calibration DVD, you will discover ways to improve your TV-side settings using such source-side tools. For example, the Anthem test patterns provide no way to verify that you haven't set Contrast (white levels) so high that you are losing "Peak White" details. A calibration DVD such as Digital Video Essentials, provides another way to help set your TV's Contrast level so as to keep it from pushing whites above the limit of what your TV can faithfully reproduce.]


But before you do that, you need to prep each source device to send the best possible signal to the Anthem. The rule of thumb for this is simple. Set each source device to do the LEAST POSSIBLE manipulation of the image. Leave it to the Anthem to do all the work.


So for a standard DVD player, for example, you want it to send 480i video to the Anthem, since that's what comes off the DVD disc, and you want to turn off any image "enhancement" features it may offer. If your DVD player also offers "picture modes", follow the rule of thumb given above and pick the one described as doing the LEAST POSSIBLE to the imaging coming off the DVD disc.


For your Motorola HDTV set top box, you want it to send along exactly the same resolution as happens to be coming at the moment on the channel you are currently watching.


For SDTV channels that will always be 480i. For HDTV that will most often be 1080i, but sometimes (typically live sports shows) it will be 720p.


If your Motorola box works like my Comcast/Motorola box, you will, however, only be able to set two resolutions -- one for SDTV and one for HDTV. In that case set 480i and 1080i. Also, if your box has an HDMI output (instead of DVI) be sure to set the Motorola's output format to YCbCr 4:4:4.


[IMPORTANT NOTE: Some recent Anthem purchasers have run into a new bug in the Anthems that makes it difficult for the Anthem to handle 1080i input via HDMI or Component. A fix is expected shortly. If you have this bug it will be obvious -- either a "scrambled" screen image or no image at 1080i input to the Anthem. Contact Anthem tech support. The workaround is to set 480i and 720p from your box, but again this is not ideal, so do switch back to 480i and 1080i when you get this fixed.]


For standard DVD players, you can adjust the Anthem's input settings with the aid of a calibration DVD. These DVDs come with instructions. The process is not hard, but it does take some time and can be confusing at first until you get a handle on what's going on. It's really very similar to what you already did setting up the TV output side of the Anthem using the TV's own controls. Only minor changes should be needed, if any, for the Anthem input settings. If you find you need to make major adjustments to the Anthem's input levels, you should probably go back and revist the way you set the levels on your TV for the Anthem's output.


For your set top box, look for test pattern programs that are periodically broadcast on INHD and HDNET early in the morning about twice a month. The INHD version is called "Tune Up". Record these if you have a DVR. Another program, "Bars and Tones" can be found on both HDTV and SDTV channels now and again. Using these, you can adjust the Anthem's input levels for your set top box. The changes from the best levels you found for your HDMI DVD player should be very close to those for your HDMI set top box.


The resulting image quality should be very VERY good, approaching spectacular if you've been careful. A professional calibration technician, an "ISF" tech, would bring additional signal generation and light sensing tools to refine things further.

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio

Gordon- Thanks for the reply. I am using HDMI from the cable box...when I select 1080p as the video output per the Anthem - I do not get a picture at all??? Why is this? I am sending it at 1920 x 1080p/60.


----------



## ddimberio

Wow...thanks Bob...I will try everything and report back....much appreciated!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gordon- Thanks for the reply. I am using HDMI from the cable box...when I select 1080p as the video output per the Anthem - I do not get a picture at all??? Why is this? I am sending it at 1920 x 1080p/60.



Separate the two issues: Is the *ANTHEM* unable to generate a 1920x1080p/60Hz signal that your TV will display?


To test this, unplug your cable box from wall power (to eliminate the 1080i input bug I mentioned), turn the Anthem off and then back on again and see if you can bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) when the Anthem is set to 1920x1080p/60Hz output. Since your cable box is unplugged that menu should be showing against the Anthem's all blue default screeen.


If you are getting the blue screen with the Video Source Adjust menu displayed on your TV at 1920x1080p/60Hz then the *OUTPUT* side of the Anthem is set up just fine. If not, then either you need a better cable to the TV or you have misread the specs for your TV.


Let's assume the Anthem generated stuff is getting to your TV just fine.


Now power up your cable box. And see what happens.


If you have no video from your cable box the most common cause is that you have forgotten to set HDMI Repeater = NO in the Anthem Setup / Source Select menu for that input.


If you have video but only when the cable box is set to a resolution lower than 1080i, then you have the 1080i bug I mentioned in my long, prior post. Contact Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe you have to reduce the number of repetitions the harmony sends each time you press a harmony key. While you are at it, reduce the delay it inserts between codes sent for each key press and between codes going from one device to codes going to another. As I understand it all of these are global settings affecting all devices the harmony is controlling and they are set ridiculously high by default to cover slow-witted devices.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I was able to find these settings in the Device Troubleshooting menu. I adjusted the delay settings as well. For the "Press & Hold" functions, I had to create separate codes and learn them as Raw. Unfortunately, the Harmony cannot be both the 7 key and the On Screen key like the original remote. I did get everything working properly now though. I appreciate your iinput.


----------



## ddimberio

Bob...you are amazing and read my mind. My TV's native resolution is in fact 1920x1080p but all I get from the Anthem is a strange snowy picture where the snow has colors and is long and thin horizontally.


Also of note...when I change the AVM back to 1280/720p, I have to turn the Anthem off and back on again for the pic to focus..otherwise it produces snow as well. I will try your test later simply by unplugging the HDMI cable from the Cable box to the Anthem and report. Thanks!


----------



## rlockshin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Very interesting!
> 
> 
> Given that you have noticed a dependency on the order of power up, this could be just another, more subtle, example of the D2 not quite initializing itself properly at power up.
> 
> 
> The most visible example of this is that the Scale Output setting for the last used input prior to power down is changed to a different value (e.g., Anamorphic vs. Letter/Pillar Box) at power up.
> 
> 
> I also believe the fact that my Fujitsu plasma no longer recognizes the D2 as a recently seen HDMI device on its DVI input (as evidenced by it not auto-loading the correct Fujitus settings for that device) is another case of this.
> 
> 
> The cure for some of these video related power up problems has been to briefly power the D2 off and then back on again. However if your problem requires the H20 to be powered up last then that won't work unless you also power off the H20 first.
> 
> --Bob



Either I misunderstood the directions or this fix does not work.

I usually leave on H20 all the time.

I turnd it off and then turned o the D2,waited 10 seconds and tried 1080i

It still gave a blank screen

What am I doing wrong?

Please send me that tech's number at Anthem

Would love to speak to him

Thanks

Rick


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Update...I* downloaded the v1.11 from the Anthem website and tried a reload. Unfortunitly, it is now worse, way worse. I currently can't get any processed signal through, not just 1080i, now on 480i/p, 720p, etc....



I feel your pain! No offense but I am sure glad I'm not the only one. I was having the typical 1080i problem until I installed v1.11 from the web and then no picture whatsoever. I guess I should send another email to Anthem. Sent one on Friday morning and still haven't received a reply. I asked someone to pm me the 1.06 version of the software on Friday as well but haven't heard anything - will let you know if I do (please return the favor)!


Bob thanks again for your help. I've bookmarked this page for later reference - your description of how to set up the video for ddimberio's system is superb. Unfortunately I can't do anything with it right now!


Wayne


----------



## DOBE

As I've mentioned, I'm upgrading my HT system. I'm keeping my M&K speakers. They're bi-amped so I don't need to worry about new amps. I will be buying the D2, the OPPO 970HD and the HR20 (D* DVR). Those decisions were relatively easy. The more difficult decision is whether to buy the 65" 1080p Panasonic consumer or commercial plasma.


Both have native resolutions of 1920 x 1080p/60Hz . I thought about waitng for a plasma with a 120 Hz refresh rate or a least inputs for 24fps with refresh rates of 48 or 72 *and* a 30fps input with refesh rates of 60 or better 90Hz, but I think I've waited about as long as I can. I will wait for the CES show to see if any of these PDPs are on the horizon ... in this size.


Both the consumer and commerical versions have 1:1 pixel mapping. It seems clear that if you have a piece of equipment such as the D2 and you have it set to ouput all incoming signals to 1080p/60Hz that 1:1 pixel mapping is a very important feature to have in your display. This is correct?


The OPPO will be set to output 480i over HDMI into the D2. The HR20 will be set to native ... so it will pass the native 480i, 720p or 1080i signal to the D2.


The D2 would then be set to output 1080P/60Hz to the display. Correct?


The commercial model comes with a DVI board which handles 1080p. The boards can be changed out, but I'm not sure the advantage since as I understand it even if Panasonic develops a 1.3 HDMI board, the display won't be able to take advantage of the greater bandwidth (higher bit rate, higher refresh rate, deep color transfer, larger color space)


With the DVI input you have no "Color" control in the user menu. The commerical unit has more flexibility to tweak the picture (more picture controls), but I think the D2 should be able tweak the picture as much as I want or am I wrong?


The consumer model has fixed inputs. It has an HDMI 1.1 input that also accepts 1080P/60Hz. I read somewhere that its best to use an RGB or DVI input with plasmas. But that may be old information.


So given that I will have the D2, does it really make any difference whether I get the commerical or consumer version? Thank you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As I've mentioned, I'm upgrading my HT system. I'm keeping my M&K speakers. They're bi-amped so I don't need to worry about new amps. I will be buying the D2, the OPPO 970HD and the HR20 (D* DVR). Those decisions were relatively easy. The more difficult decision is whether to buy the 65" 1080p Panasonic consumer or commercial plasma.
> 
> 
> Both have native resolutions of 1920 x 1080p/60Hz . I thought about waitng for a plasma with a 120 Hz refresh rate or a least inputs for 24fps with refresh rates of 48 or 72 *and* a 30fps input with refesh rates of 60 or better 90Hz, but I think I've waited about as long as I can. I will wait for the CES show to see if any of these PDPs are on the horizon ... in this size.
> 
> 
> Both the consumer and commerical versions have 1:1 pixel mapping. It seems clear that if you have a piece of equipment such as the D2 and you have it set to ouput all incoming signals to 1080p/60Hz that 1:1 pixel mapping is a very important feature to have in your display. This is correct?
> 
> 
> The OPPO will be set to output 480i over HDMI into the D2. The HR20 will be set to native ... so it will pass the native 480i, 720p or 1080i signal to the D2.
> 
> 
> The D2 would then be set to output 1080P/60Hz to the display. Correct?
> 
> 
> The commercial model comes with a DVI board which handles 1080p. The boards can be changed out, but I'm not sure the advantage since as I understand it even if Panasonic develops a 1.3 HDMI board, the display won't be able to take advantage of the greater bandwidth (higher bit rate, higher refresh rate, deep color transfer, larger color space)
> 
> 
> With the DVI input you have no "Color" control in the user menu. The commerical unit has more flexibility to tweak the picture (more picture controls), but I think the D2 should be able tweak the picture as much as I want or am I wrong?
> 
> 
> The consumer model has fixed inputs. it has an HDMI 1.1 input that also accepts 1080P/60Hz. I read somewhere that its best to use an RGB or DVI input with plasmas. But that may be old information.
> 
> 
> So given that I will have the D2, does it really make any difference whether I get the commerical or consumer version? Thank you.



Let's see, yes, you want the D2 output to be 1920x1080p/60Hz for such a display.


Yes you want 1:1 pixel addressing. Since the display has a 1920x1080p native pixel matrix, all that means is that there's no artifical overscan introduced by the display's circuitry. All 1920x1080 pixels of the input signal will light up visible pixels on the display.


The DVI input on the commercial unit will limit you to RGB color format from the D2. The D2 does some additional dithering of dark grays near black to make that work. I'd suggest you get a replacement HDMI card to avoid that. By the way this is also why you have no Color control.


The idea that RGB input is better for plasmas is not really true any longer. Although the plasma will convert the HDMI's YCbCr input to RGB as part of its internal processing, modern plasmas do that using extra bit depth in the math, so the conversion is, for all practical purposes, perfect. And the Anthem will take care of any "color space" variations automatically. Just pick an HDMI input card that's known to work well for this unit.


An HDMI to HDMI connection is also more reliable than an HDMI to DVI connection, particularly as the cable gets longer, and particularly given you are pushing the bandwidth. The difference is the newer driver chips used for HDMI.


There are three different points where you want to tweak the image. First the display has to be set to produce the best image from the Anthem's output. This is done using the display's controls. Extra controls may make this easier. The biggest addition beyond the standard "levels" controls is fine adjustments to gray scale and color ramps that are a result of tweaking the color drivers in the display and also the Gamma correction curves. The Anthem's newest stuff will let you do Gamma adjustment, but will not let you get at the primary and secondary color settings in the display. Having access to more of that stuff in the commercial unit is a plus for that unit. However, most owners will not be able to take advantage of that unless they hire a professional ISF tech to come in and do the work.


The second point of adjustment is at the Anthem's input for each source device. The Anthem has you covered there. And the third point of adjustment is in each source device. Some sources let you tweak things, but given the Anthem's controls you primarly want to get AROUND any such stuff in the sources.


The consumer model probably has a higher resale value if that's important to you simply because most potential used equipment buyers don't have a clue what the commercial units are all about. The consumer model likely also has other features that are irrelevant to your use -- such as, quite possibly, a tuner.


The commercial model may put out more heat, and may draw more power. The warranty and ease of getting service may also be different. Check the specs.


For your purpose I'd probably lean towards the commercial unit with an HDMI blade.


=========================================


EDITED TO ADD: For this kind of bucks, you should also take a serious gander at a front projection system as an alternative. You might be able to save money and still get a bigger image almost as bright. Plus you'll be able to fiddle with "judder free" settings.


=========================================


ANOTHER EDITED TO ADD: One more thing to watch out for with the DVI blade on the commercial unit is whether it is set up for "studio RGB", which is typical for home theater, or "extended RGB", which is typical if the unit is to be used as a computer monitor.


The Anthem's output can handle both, but for home theater use I'd recommend you stay away from a DVI setup that forces you to use "extended RGB". Since there's limited image adjustment processing that will hapen inside the plasma, it's not THAT big a deal, but I'd still say avoid the computer based DVI format. For example, even if you want to for some reason, there's no way to make an extended RGB setup display Blacker than Black data because that data doesn't come across the cable. In extended RGB, "Black" is represented as digital 0 and so there's no room below that for Blacker than Black data. A similar issue arises with respect to Reference White vs. still brighter Peak White data.

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Separate the two issues: Is the *ANTHEM* unable to generate a 1920x1080p/60Hz signal that your TV will display?
> 
> 
> To test this, unplug your cable box from wall power (to eliminate the 1080i input bug I mentioned), turn the Anthem off and then back on again and see if you can bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) when the Anthem is set to 1920x1080p/60Hz output. Since your cable box is unplugged that menu should be showing against the Anthem's all blue default screeen.
> 
> 
> If you are getting the blue screen with the Video Source Adjust menu displayed on your TV at 1920x1080p/60Hz then the *OUTPUT* side of the Anthem is set up just fine. If not, then either you need a better cable to the TV or you have misread the specs for your TV.
> 
> 
> Let's assume the Anthem generated stuff is getting to your TV just fine.
> 
> 
> Now power up your cable box. And see what happens.
> 
> 
> If you have no video from your cable box the most common cause is that you have forgotten to set HDMI Repeater = NO in the Anthem Setup / Source Select menu for that input.
> 
> 
> If you have video but only when the cable box is set to a resolution lower than 1080i, then you have the 1080i bug I mentioned in my long, prior post. Contact Anthem tech support.
> 
> --Bob





OK...I guess I'll be contacting Anthem tech. support. I have in fact concluded the issues is the Anthem - after unplugging and seeing if it displays the setup menu (even after repowering the Anthem). Unless it's the cable (a 15 meter audioquest HDMI-A (which is rated to run 1080p), but I couldn't get 1080i to focus either.


Honestly it is a real bummer, spending $4600.00 on a piece that won't display the 1080p promised. So what's next? Tech. Support will fix it? How? Should I get a replacement from the dealer? I've only owned it a few days. Is the glitch software related? If so, why isn't everyone having this problem? Anyhow, thanks for all of the help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK...I guess I'll be contacting Anthem tech. support. I have in fact concluded the issues is the Anthem - after unplugging and seeing if it displays the setup menu (even after repowering the Anthem). Unless it's the cable (a 15 meter audioquest HDMI-A (which is rated to run 1080p), but I couldn't get 1080i to focus either.
> 
> 
> Honestly it is a real bummer, spending $4600.00 on a piece that won't display the 1080p promised. So what's next? Tech. Support will fix it? How? Should I get a replacement from the dealer? I've only owned it a few days. Is the glitch software related? If so, why isn't everyone having this problem? Anyhow, thanks for all of the help.



OK now we know to concentrate on Anthem output problems. What you are experiencing is not this new 1080i input bug.


See if you can find a way to temporarily move the Anthem near to your display and then try hooking it up with a shorter HDMI cable (6 foot or shorter). You can likely use most any reasonable HDMI cable for a 1080i trial, but for 1080p you'll need a high bandwidth cable even for the short distance. That will tell you whether it is the Anthem or the cable.


Again, you won't need any source devices for this test -- nor hookups to speaker amps.


15 meters -- 45 feet -- is pretty long for HDMI. It could easily be the cable.


Let's see if you can get a good signal using a shorter cable first. If not, then Anthem and your dealer should certainly take care of you. There are plenty of people using these Anthems with 1080p displays right now. The most common problem is discovering that their cable is not REALLY able to handle 1080p and thus they need to try a different cable. But since you are also having problems with 1080i the cable would have to be more than usually flakey.


And just to be sure, you have tried both settings of HDMI Sync in the Anthem Setup / Video Output menu right? Only one of the two settings is going to work right.


---------------------------------------------------------------------


If you get a good Anthem menu display with the shorter cable, then that points the finger at your longer cable.


If you do NOT get a good Anthem menu display with the shorter cable, then it would be wise to try another HDMI source into your TV directly (such as the cable box, or perhaps a scaling DVD player) to make sure your TV is in fact set up correctly to receive at least a 1080i signal.


===============================================


EDITED TO ADD: And also, if you have a second TV with HDMI input, see if the Anthem can drive that TV correctly with a shorter cable. Your dealer may be able to help with this -- hooking up the Anthem to a TV in his store for example.


These few tests will help isolate where the problem really lies. You may have a bad HDMI output on your Anthem. If so, what Anthem has typically done is to send a replacement through the dealer while the dealer takes care of getting the faulty machine back to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio

Thanks again Bob. What if I used component video from the Anthem? Also, the HDMI cable is 12m not 15...sorry my mistake.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob. What if I used component video from the Anthem? Also, the HDMI cable is 12m not 15...sorry my mistake.



Component video will limit you to 1080i output for processed output, and you'll need to run component video cables in to the Anthem from your sources since there will no longer be an HDCP-compliant (i.e., copy protected) display on the Anthem's HDMI output.


But this could certainly be a temporary workaround while awaiting your replacement machine if that turns out to be necessary.


In any event the first thing to do is to find out where the problem really resides. See if you can do the few tests I mentioned, perhaps with your dealer's help. I'm sure your dealer wants you to be happy with this product too, so he'll likely oblige with the loan of a cable or the chance to hook up to a TV in his shop for example.


Again these are easy tests because you really don't need anything cabled to the Anthem except for video output and of course the power cord.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob. What if I used component video from the Anthem? Also, the HDMI cable is 12m not 15...sorry my mistake.



I'm not familiar with the brand audioquest - But I run a 12 meter

HDMI Cable from the D2 to my Sony Ruby PJ @ 1080p - no HINTS

of any problems.


I use this brand because of the strain relief ---

http://www.bestdealcables.com/LineList.aspx?LineID=57 


But any High-Quality Cable should work.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not familiar with the brand audioquest - But I run a 12 meter
> 
> HDMI Cable from the D2 to my Sony Ruby PJ @ 1080p - no HINTS
> 
> of any problems.
> 
> 
> I use this brand because of the strain relief ---
> 
> http://www.bestdealcables.com/LineList.aspx?LineID=57
> 
> 
> But any High-Quality Cable should work.



drhankz,

You did notice that this company only guarantees 1080p performance on its HDMI cables up to 10 meters? (grin!)


Of course there's no hard and fast rule as to how long of a cable will still work. About all you can say is that the longer the cable the greater the chance of problems. And 1080p requires more from the cable than lower resolutions.

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio

I am going to go with a 9 meter cable that I will research 1st...that will be long enough to make the stretch to the anthem from my in-wall rack on the side.


Also. Just another test I ran this morning. I plugged the 12-meter HDMI cable directly in the cable box and achieved a perfect 1080i signal on the Mits. Why won't my Anthem simply drive a 1080i image as well? I do believe the problem is the software bug. I will borrow a shorter HDMI cable from my dealer (who happens to be my best friend) and see if the Atnhem will drive 1080i on my Bravia 26" LCD that is in my bedroom - but I am now 95% sure I will have the same problem. For whatever reason my Anthem simply will not drive 1080i. Any thoughts?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am going to go with a 9 meter cable that I will research 1st...that will be long enough to make the stretch to the anthem from my in-wall rack on the side.
> 
> 
> Also. Just another test I ran this morning. I plugged the 12-meter HDMI cable directly in the cable box and achieved a perfect 1080i signal on the Mits. Why won't my Anthem simply drive a 1080i image as well? I do believe the problem is the software bug. I will borrow a shorter HDMI cable from my dealer (who happens to be my best friend) and see if the Atnhem will drive 1080i on my Bravia 26" LCD that is in my bedroom - but I am now 95% sure I will have the same problem. For whatever reason my Anthem simply will not drive 1080i. Any thoughts?



GOOD TEST.


That is why I mentioned no problem with cable length.


I'm sure it is not a drive issue between the D2 and Cable Length.


But I think it is CLEAR - there is an Issue between the D2 and Your Display.


----------



## vcs_wharvey

I found a copy of AVM v1.06 out there on the web thanks to a post from budeone that was posted last month. I'll try to install it after work and see if it clears up any of my video problems. If not, then I'll assume I have a hardware problem until further notice.


Have any of you noticed that the installer size doubled from v1.06 to v1.11? The installer for v1.06 is about 3MB whereas v1.11 is 6MB. Big changes between the two maybe.


-Wayne


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I found a copy of AVM v1.06 out there on the web thanks to a post from budeone that was posted last month.
> 
> -Wayne



Well Thank You for POSTING that link.


Now in case any others need it - we only need to SEARCH the

last month's worth of postings.


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well Thank You for POSTING that link.
> 
> 
> Now in case any others need it - we only need to SEARCH the
> 
> last month's worth of postings.




haha, ok I get the message so here is what I was able to find. I didn't actually get a link to the post, but my searches called up the following text from a post from budeone. I hope this helps someone out there. Thanks budeone if you're still out there!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> budeone11-25-06, 08:47 PM
> 
> gostan I am having a problem myself updating to 1.10. Nick has told me he is working on it also.
> 
> 
> Bob has made some great posts of ideas but I cant get it to work.
> 
> 
> Nick told me to hold on till they figure something out.
> 
> 
> I uploaded 1.06 for AVM-50 for anybody who wants it.
> 
> http://rapidshare.com/files/4842021/...stall.zip.html
> 
> 
> Credit for file goes to yatchaks
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am going to go with a 9 meter cable that I will research 1st...that will be long enough to make the stretch to the anthem from my in-wall rack on the side.
> 
> 
> Also. Just another test I ran this morning. I plugged the 12-meter HDMI cable directly in the cable box and achieved a perfect 1080i signal on the Mits. Why won't my Anthem simply drive a 1080i image as well? I do believe the problem is the software bug. I will borrow a shorter HDMI cable from my dealer (who happens to be my best friend) and see if the Atnhem will drive 1080i on my Bravia 26" LCD that is in my bedroom - but I am now 95% sure I will have the same problem. For whatever reason my Anthem simply will not drive 1080i. Any thoughts?



You are doing the right things. If the Anthem also won't work with HDMI 1080i to your Bravia you have all the evidence you need.


My understanding is that the 1080i software bug is an INPUT problem. That is, even people who clearly have this bug are still able to send 1080i or 1080p OUTPUT to their TVs as long as they are not using a 1080i input source. But you could be having a related problem or you could simply have a bad HDMI output on your Anthem.


If the test fails with your Bravia, you and your dealer should contact Anthem about a replacement unit. Let Anthem know your test is based on the Anthem's own internal video output graphics, and you have tried different cables, have tried different TVs, and have verified that the TVs properly receive HDMI 1080i from a different source device (your cable box).

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns

This is my first post on this thread. I purchased my original AVM 50 several months ago, but had an issue with a low level humming noise coming from the power supply. I took it back to my dealer and he, without hesitation, exchanged it for another unit (excellent customer service from authorized dealer). I made several posts on the Official AVM 50 thread, and everyone was extremely helpful. My current AVM 50 runs dead silent! It came installed with version 1.01, and I currently have it running with version 1.10. Purchased an Oppo 970 and have it hooked up via HDMI. Initially, I calibrated it using my Avia calibration disc, and when I did side by side comparisons using my Denon 2900 hooked up directly to my TV via component, I only noticed a marginally better picture. When Bob Pariseau posted his technique on how to calibrate the Anthem I decided to give it a try. All I can say is WOW! The picture improved quite a bit. Watched Sin City the other night and the picture was razor sharp. Black level and detail improved. The picture quality was simply amazing. I want to thank Bob Pariseau, Levesque, and all the other knowledgeable people who have contributed their knowledge to this thread.


On another note:


Recently, I decided to run video from my SA 8300 HD DVR via HDMI to my AVM 50. I previously was not interested in doing this because of all the issues reported here on this thread. I had a 6 foot HDMI cable running from the cable box directly to my Sony SXRD, and a digital coax running from the cable box to the AVM 50 for sound. After several weeks, however, I missed having the Anthem's OSD and decided to invest in a 15 foot HDMI cable from Blue Jeans Cable to run it directly from the box to the Anthem. Video Out from the Anthem is via a 10 foot HDMI Blue Jeans cable. Whenever the Anthem receives a 1080i signal from the 8300, it comes out scrambled. Once this happens, the Anthem's processor cannot recover, and I have to power it off/on to fix it (after changing the 8300 back to a 480i station). I have conducted all of the suggestions made in this thread to no avail. Hopefully this is a minor software issue Anthem can correct. Until then, I will hook up a component cable I recently purchased to replace the HDMI.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> haha, ok I get the message so here is what I was able to find. I didn't actually get a link to the post, but my searches called up the following text from a post from budeone. I hope this helps someone out there. Thanks budeone if you're still out there!



Thanks WAYNE - That link is a BIG HELP







!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is my first post on this thread. I purchased my original AVM 50 several months ago, but had an issue with a low level humming noise coming from the power supply. I took it back to my dealer and he, without hesitation, exchanged it for another unit (excellent customer service from authorized dealer). I made several posts on the Official AVM 50 thread, and everyone was extremely helpful. My current AVM 50 runs dead silent! It came installed with version 1.01, and I currently have it running with version 1.10. Purchased an Oppo 970 and have it hooked up via HDMI. Initially, I calibrated it using my Avia calibration disc, and when I did side by side comparisons using my Denon 2900 hooked up directly to my TV via component, I only noticed a marginally better picture. When Bob Pariseau posted his technique on how to calibrate the Anthem I decided to give it a try. All I can say is WOW! The picture improved quite a bit. Watched Sin City the other night and the picture was razor sharp. Black level and detail improved. The picture quality was simply amazing. I want to thank Bob Pariseau, Levesque, and all the other knowledgeable people who have contributed their knowledge to this thread.
> 
> 
> On another note:
> 
> 
> Recently, I decided to run video from my SA 8300 HD DVR via HDMI to my AVM 50. I previously was not interested in doing this because of all the issues reported here on this thread. I had a 6 foot HDMI cable running from the cable box directly to my Sony SXRD, and a digital coax running from the cable box to the AVM 50 for sound. After several weeks, however, I missed having the Anthem's OSD and decided to invest in a 15 foot HDMI cable from Blue Jeans Cable to run it directly from the box to the Anthem. Video Out from the Anthem is via a 10 foot HDMI Blue Jeans cable. Whenever the Anthem receives a 1080i signal from the 8300, it comes out scrambled. Once this happens, the Anthem's processor cannot recover, and I have to power it off/on to fix it (after changing the 8300 back to a 480i station). I have conducted all of the suggestions made in this thread to no avail. Hopefully this is a minor software issue Anthem can correct. Until then, I will hook up a component cable I recently purchased to replace the HDMI.



Thanks for the kind words on the calibration techniques! You may now join the silly grins and hopping up and down in glee club. (grin!)


It appears you have run afoul of the newly discovered 1080i input bug. Anthem is well aware of it, and a fix is expected shortly. The previous software version, V1.06 did not have this bug, so I've no doubt they will be able to track it down if they can drag the right people back from vacation.


Be aware that we have some reports this bug exists for both HDMI and Component video 1080i input, so trying Component 1080i input may not work for you either.


As you've probably seen we have a few reports of people who have managed to get rid of this bug, although none of the techniques reported have worked for others when they tried it. Personally I believe that Anthem is failing to initialize some portion of the scaler properly, and thus it is picking up some random stuff left around in memory. And that's what leaves it susceptible to failure when 1080i input is tried. If you do enough random things you might manage to change whatever garbage it is picking up and voila the bug hides itself. But the real fix will require new software from Anthem that initializes things properly.


The best workaround until then is to set your cable box to produce only 480i and 720p output to the Anthem. HDTV 1080i programs will be downscaled to 720p by your cable box (and then scaled again to your selected output resolution by the Anthem), which is certainly not ideal, but at least it will work reliably while awaiting a fix from Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> haha, ok I get the message so here is what I was able to find. I didn't actually get a link to the post, but my searches called up the following text from a post from budeone. I hope this helps someone out there. Thanks budeone if you're still out there!



PLEASE NOTE: The posted software is for AVM-50 units ONLY. D2 owners will need to track down a D2 version of V1.06.

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are doing the right things. If the Anthem also won't work with HDMI 1080i to your Bravia you have all the evidence you need.
> 
> 
> My understanding is that the 1080i software bug is an INPUT problem. That is, even people who clearly have this bug are still able to send 1080i or 1080p OUTPUT to their TVs as long as they are not using a 1080i input source. But you could be having a related problem or you could simply have a bad HDMI output on your Anthem.
> 
> 
> If the test fails with your Bravia, you and your dealer should contact Anthem about a replacement unit. Let Anthem know your test is based on the Anthem's own internal video output graphics, and you have tried different cables, have tried different TVs, and have verified that the TVs properly receive HDMI 1080i from a different source device (your cable box).
> 
> --Bob




I spoke to Nick at Anthem today and he seems to think that I apparently have the 1080i software glitch. He is well aware of the problem and he offered to send me version 1.12...although he needed to look into a few things first. That said, he also educated me on the fact that my Mits. display cannot take a 1080p signal...even though it is marketed as a 1080p display. I have officially learned that taking a 1080p signal and "displaying" one are two different things entirely. For the time being, I am going to sit tight and wait for the new software and go from there. Thanks for all of your help. - David


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I spoke to Nick at Anthem today and he seems to think that I apparently have the 1080i software glitch. He is well aware of the problem and he offered to send me version 1.12...although he needed to look into a few things first. That said, he also educated me on the fact that my Mits. display cannot take a 1080p signal...even though it is marketed as a 1080p display. I have officially learned that taking a 1080p signal and "displaying" one are two different things entirely. For the time being, I am going to sit tight and wait for the new software and go from there. Thanks for all of your help. - David



I am NOT AT ALL Surprised at the Mits Discovery.


Actually - I thought that was your problem - but I wasn't sure

enough to INSERT my Foot in my mouth [GRIN]!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I spoke to Nick at Anthem today and he seems to think that I apparently have the 1080i software glitch. He is well aware of the problem and he offered to send me version 1.12...although he needed to look into a few things first. That said, he also educated me on the fact that my Mits. display cannot take a 1080p signal...even though it is marketed as a 1080p display. I have officially learned that taking a 1080p signal and "displaying" one are two different things entirely. For the time being, I am going to sit tight and wait for the new software and go from there. Thanks for all of your help. - David



Good news about the software. Bad news about the display.


It's also good to hear that Nick is back in the plant and on top of things. He'll take care of you.

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good news about the software. Bad news about the display.
> 
> 
> It's also good to hear that Nick is back in the plant and on top of things. He'll take care of you.
> 
> --Bob



Nick also told me that the 1280x720p setting may very well give me a better picture than the 1920x1080i - but I guess I'll be the judge of that as soon as I can get a 1080i image (via new software) to the display from the Anthem. Does that make sense to you guys? Why would the 720p maybe look better than the 1080i?


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am NOT AT ALL Surprised at the Mits Discovery.
> 
> 
> Actually - I thought that was your problem - but I wasn't sure
> 
> enough to INSERT my Foot in my mouth [GRIN]!




But I still can't get the 1080i signal to my set either...because of the "glitch."


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick also told me that the 1280x720p setting may very well give me a better picture than the 1920x1080i - but I guess I'll be the judge of that as soon as I can get a 1080i image (via new software) to the display from the Anthem. Does that make sense to you guys? Why would the 720p maybe look better than the 1080i?



A 1080p display that only accepts a 1080i input has to "de-interlace" the 1080i into 1080p. Generally speaking, such TVs do this using a simple method that is not all that great. Now you are unlikely to notice any glaring problems because the resolution is so high that the artifacts are much smaller than is the case, for example, when standard TV at 480i is poorly de-interlaced into 480p. But the artifacts still exist.


The Anthem uses a much more sophisticated method of de-interlacing. Thus if you send 720p to your TV the TV will not have to de-interlace it since the Anthem has already done that, although it WILL have to "scale" it up to 1080p. So the issue is whether the quality of your TV's scaling is good enough that it is better to send it 720p to avoid any potential problems in its de-interlacing.


It's really hard to tell in advance which will work better for you. Such TVs are usually optimized in other ways for a 1080i signal since that's how they are most commonly judged by buyers in stores. In other words, if the engineers have to cut corners somewhere to keep the price down they will damage the way other resolutions are handled before they damage 1080i input. So that might turn the tide all by itself to preferring 1080i.


Your best bet is probably to go to the appropriate display forum here and find a thread for your TV, or just start a new thread and see if any of the people there have experience with your TV. Mention that you are feeding the TV with a top quality de-interlacing and scaling solution -- the Gennum VXP stuff in the Anthem -- so the real issue is which signal your TV will handle better.


And of course once you get your Anthem fixed, you can just try it yourself. Be sure you calibrate your TV separately for 720p and for 1080i as the "best" settings may differ between them and you can't really judge quality unless you know both ways are calibrated the same way.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick also told me that the 1280x720p setting may very well give me a better picture than the 1920x1080i - but I guess I'll be the judge of that as soon as I can get a 1080i image (via new software) to the display from the Anthem. Does that make sense to you guys? Why would the 720p maybe look better than the 1080i?



Sending out 1080i might mean that a signal would have to be interlaced, and then deinterlaced again once it was in the display. The display MAY not do the best job. The Anthem will do a better job than most displays, sources, really anything other than the highest end processors.


Sorry to hear your Mits TV can't accept 1080p. Is it a 2005 model? Most projectors and TVs even today cannot *accept* a 1080p signal, even though they might be able to display one (via upsampling-720p, or deinterlacing-1080i).


1080p is a bit of a marketing checkbox right now.


I had my Sony Ruby projector hooked up briefly via component using 1080i in. The Ruby does a decent job of deinterlacing to 1080p, so the picture looked good. But when I hooked it up via HDMI and 1080p from the Anthem - spectacular!


----------



## vcs_wharvey

Well - gave the 1.06 install a try and get nothing but the famous FPGA configurator error. I tried it on my other computer and got the typical OKI Boot loader error. Both have physical RS-232 ports. Also, the avm50 is completely disonnected from the HT - only the power cord and serial cable are connected. If I reinstall 1.11 I get the same video problems described previously. I guess as one last resort I can take it to work with me tomorrow and try it across the numerous computers I have there.


Still no reply from Anthem tech support after 2 emails. I'll be CALLING them tomorrow and will try to remain courteous.


Wayne


----------



## dubist

New poster, same problems updating new D2 software. Nick has been responsive, if not successful, addressing the problem. He emailed me a v.1.11a that was supposed to take care of the problems, but got bootloader message. I have tried multiple computers, including some with serial connections. Nick was to return from vacation today, so hopefully, he can get the matter resolved. It is getting disheartening. I never had an issue with my AVm-20 and upgrading to the D2 has not panned out as hoped, since I have no OSD and can't make any video adjustments until this bug is worked out.


Dubist


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But I still can't get the 1080i signal to my set either...because of the "glitch."



I have been hearing and hearing about a 1080i BUG or Glitch.


But I don't have a CLUE what everyone is talking about.


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well - gave the 1.06 install a try and get nothing but the famous FPGA configurator error. I tried it on my other computer and got the typical OKI Boot loader error. Both have physical RS-232 ports. Also, the avm50 is completely disonnected from the HT - only the power cord and serial cable are connected. If I reinstall 1.11 I get the same video problems described previously. I guess as one last resort I can take it to work with me tomorrow and try it across the numerous computers I have there.
> 
> 
> Still no reply from Anthem tech support after 2 emails. I'll be CALLING them tomorrow and will try to remain courteous.
> 
> 
> Wayne



Wayne,


I too got the FPGA config error while upgrading to 1.11 which left me with a very expensive boat anchor. I was able to re-load 1.06 so, all is well. I purchased a serial cable, instead of using the USB to DB9 cable. And was going to attempt it again until I saw your post. I also left a message for support and zipped up the error message and emailed it to support. One thing I have learned having owned B&K, Krell and now Anthem, they are great hardware companies, not so great on the software. Being a veteran programmer, there are things these companies can do to make the install better for the average consumer, heck it's only a 6mb file.


Anyway, I love my D2 and having applied some of techniques learned in this forum, my Panny Blu-Ray and Tosh A2 put out some pretty amazing video along with excellent 2 channel.


Keep us posted if you hear anything tomorrow, perhaps when v1.12 will be out.


Lou


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had my Sony Ruby projector hooked up briefly via component using 1080i in. The Ruby does a decent job of deinterlacing to 1080p, so the picture looked good. But when I hooked it up via HDMI and 1080p from the Anthem - spectacular!



Same Here - Spectacular on the D2-Ruby!


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On another note:
> 
> 
> Recently, I decided to run video from my SA 8300 HD DVR via HDMI to my AVM 50. I previously was not interested in doing this because of all the issues reported here on this thread. I had a 6 foot HDMI cable running from the cable box directly to my Sony SXRD, and a digital coax running from the cable box to the AVM 50 for sound. After several weeks, however, I missed having the Anthem's OSD and decided to invest in a 15 foot HDMI cable from Blue Jeans Cable to run it directly from the box to the Anthem. Video Out from the Anthem is via a 10 foot HDMI Blue Jeans cable. Whenever the Anthem receives a 1080i signal from the 8300, it comes out scrambled. Once this happens, the Anthem's processor cannot recover, and I have to power it off/on to fix it (after changing the 8300 back to a 480i station). I have conducted all of the suggestions made in this thread to no avail. Hopefully this is a minor software issue Anthem can correct. Until then, I will hook up a component cable I recently purchased to replace the HDMI.



Hey a local.









I assume you have BHN cable. I've been running my 8300HD DVR via HDMI without any video issues for the last 6 months with my D2. I have all the resolutions enabled on the 8300 so the D2 can scale everything. Sounds like you have the same issue that people have described above. I'm running 1.10 and the D2 and don't have the issue.


I do have an issue since the recent BHN update where I don't get any HDMI audio over the 480i channels. Do you get HDMI audio on the 480i channels?


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wayne,
> 
> 
> I too got the FPGA config error while upgrading to 1.11 which left me with a very expensive boat anchor. I was able to re-load 1.06 so, all is well. I purchased a serial cable, instead of using the USB to DB9 cable. And was going to attempt it again until I saw your post. I also left a message for support and zipped up the error message and emailed it to support. One thing I have learned having owned B&K, Krell and now Anthem, they are great hardware companies, not so great on the software. Being a veteran programmer, there are things these companies can do to make the install better for the average consumer, heck it's only a 6mb file.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I love my D2 and having applied some of techniques learned in this forum, my Panny Blu-Ray and Tosh A2 put out some pretty amazing video along with excellent 2 channel.
> 
> 
> Keep us posted if you hear anything tomorrow, perhaps when v1.12 will be out.
> 
> 
> Lou



Hi Lou,


It's funny that you called it a boat anchor. My wife has said those 2 words repeatedly over the past week and keeps saying I should return it. Thing is - I'm hard headed and won't give up till I beat it. : )


I too come from software. I used to be a video game programmer and now own a video game development company, so I know how complicated software development can get. But DSP programming seems much more complicated than video games to me. I was actually commenting to my wife today that it is amazing how awesome these guys are at developing audio DSP and the hardware that goes along with it but how difficult of a time they have at making robust windows applications to supplement their products. I've noticed similar problems with my Pronto remote.


I am confident that the folks at Anthem will give me some attention soon and that their brand new 1.12 installer will work without a charm. Just the thought of another FPGA or OKI error once that patch arrives makes me shudder.


Wayne


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well - gave the 1.06 install a try and get nothing but the famous FPGA configurator error. I tried it on my other computer and got the typical OKI Boot loader error. Both have physical RS-232 ports. Also, the avm50 is completely disonnected from the HT - only the power cord and serial cable are connected. If I reinstall 1.11 I get the same video problems described previously. I guess as one last resort I can take it to work with me tomorrow and try it across the numerous computers I have there.
> 
> 
> Still no reply from Anthem tech support after 2 emails. I'll be CALLING them tomorrow and will try to remain courteous.
> 
> 
> Wayne




Ditto, I tried the v1.06 with the same error at FPGA. I then had problems reloading v1.11, until I rebooted my CPU. So we are in the same boat. I haven't gotten a call from Anthem, but Nick sent me an email. I left a message earlier in the day with my email, however he couldn't send the attachement to that account. We will try again tomorrow.....


Keep me posted on your end.


----------



## darryl b

i'm really looking hard at the d2. i am reading this entire thread( believe it or not) i wanted to be sure to read answers to a few basic questions, so i posted them below.


some of the out-board box vps now offer picture by picture and picture in picture. has the video section of d2 been supported with such upgrades? how are upgrades applied, easily?


which amps are some of you using? i have a gemstone 200*7, is that in the same league as the d2?


is the d2 economical compared to a pre/pro and out-board box vp?


i have a ruby, am on pre-order for the jvc rs-1, will get hddvd and a ps3. will the antem statement d2 be the piece to rule such a system?


i don't read much about d2 audio, what about the sound?


thanks,


darryl


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I spoke to Nick at Anthem today and he seems to think that I apparently have the 1080i software glitch. He is well aware of the problem and he offered to send me version 1.12...although he needed to look into a few things first. That said, he also educated me on the fact that my Mits. display cannot take a 1080p signal...even though it is marketed as a 1080p display. I have officially learned that taking a 1080p signal and "displaying" one are two different things entirely. For the time being, I am going to sit tight and wait for the new software and go from there. Thanks for all of your help. - David



David, what's the model number of your Mits? Contrary to what the rumor mill says, the 2005 models do in fact accept and display a native 1080p signal. My WD-52628 is displaying 1080p/60 from the my AVM-50 without a problem. If you let me know your exact model number, I'll walk you through the steps of setting up the tv to pass through a native 1080p signal.


----------



## vcs_wharvey

Hey guys,


Question for ya. I notice that the Oppo 970HD gets mentioned a lot in this thread.


Is this a highly recommended DVD player for the Anthem preamps? I currently have a Pioneer Elite that only outputs 480i/p. And I spent a lot more for it than what the Oppo goes for. Should I switch?


-Wayne


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Lou,
> 
> 
> It's funny that you called it a boat anchor. My wife has said those 2 words repeatedly over the past week and keeps saying I should return it. Thing is - I'm hard headed and won't give up till I beat it. : )
> 
> 
> I too come from software. I used to be a video game programmer and now own a video game development company, so I know how complicated software development can get. But DSP programming seems much more complicated than video games to me. I was actually commenting to my wife today that it is amazing how awesome these guys are at developing audio DSP and the hardware that goes along with it but how difficult of a time they have at making robust windows applications to supplement their products. I've noticed similar problems with my Pronto remote.
> 
> 
> I am confident that the folks at Anthem will give me some attention soon and that their brand new 1.12 installer will work without a charm. Just the thought of another FPGA or OKI error once that patch arrives makes me shudder.
> 
> 
> Wayne



Wayne,


I think you are being kind, looking at the GUI for the installer and the Live Video Editor, there isn't much going on.

I'll wait until they stablize the code and installation procedures, I have a functioning 1.06 and while there are some "cool" features in 1.11, not enough for me to take the chance since getting support from Anthem this week appears to be a challenge.


Lou


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> Question for ya. I notice that the Oppo 970HD gets mentioned a lot in this thread.
> 
> 
> Is this a highly recommended DVD player for the Anthem preamps? I currently have a Pioneer Elite that only outputs 480i/p. And I spent a lot more for it than what the Oppo goes for. Should I switch?
> 
> 
> -Wayne



The Oppo 970 is a popular item since it outputs 480i over HDMI, and allows all processing to be turned off, so it is a very inexpensive transport for those who have a great av processor such as the D2/AVM50. And taking the data straight off the DVD into the Anthem at 480i ensures that ALL processing (deinterlacing, scaling, noise reduction, cadence detection etc.) is done in one place only.


Plus, it plays all manner of discs (other than HD), and has USB and memory card input as well. Audio can also be delivered over HDMI, making the Oppo + Anthem path a minimal cabling issue.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> Question for ya. I notice that the Oppo 970HD gets mentioned a lot in this thread.
> 
> 
> Is this a highly recommended DVD player for the Anthem preamps? I currently have a Pioneer Elite that only outputs 480i/p. And I spent a lot more for it than what the Oppo goes for. Should I switch?
> 
> 
> -Wayne




In a word........YES! But why switch...why not keep both and use the Elite for SACD.


Peter


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In a word........YES! But why switch...why not keep both and use the Elite for SACD.
> 
> 
> Peter




Ahh interesting idea. Do you think the Elite is better equipped at processing sacd information?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Oppo 970 is a popular item since it outputs 480i over HDMI, and allows all processing to be turned off, so it is a very inexpensive transport for those who have a great av processor such as the D2/AVM50. And taking the data straight off the DVD into the Anthem at 480i ensures that ALL processing (deinterlacing, scaling, noise reduction, cadence detection etc.) is done in one place only.
> 
> 
> Plus, it plays all manner of discs (other than HD), and has USB and memory card input as well. Audio can also be delivered over HDMI, making the Oppo + Anthem path a minimal cabling issue.



Thanks! That settles it then. : )


-Wayne


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ahh interesting idea. Do you think the Elite is better equipped at processing sacd information?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! That settles it then. : )
> 
> 
> -Wayne




I and others here have not seen a better SD pic quality than the oppo D2 pairing especially when you throw in the ruby!


Peter


ps. performance not price was the determining factor (at least for me!)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darryl b* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i'm really looking hard at the d2. i am reading this entire thread( believe it or not) i wanted to be sure to read answers to a few basic questions, so i posted them below.
> 
> 
> some of the out-board box vps now offer picture by picture and picture in picture. has the video section of d2 been supported with such upgrades? how are upgrades applied, easily?
> 
> 
> which amps are some of you using? i have a gemstone 200*7, is that in the same league as the d2?
> 
> 
> is the d2 economical compared to a pre/pro and out-board box vp?
> 
> 
> i have a ruby, am on pre-order for the jvc rs-1, will get hddvd and a ps3. will the antem statement d2 be the piece to rule such a system?
> 
> 
> i don't read much about d2 audio, what about the sound?
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> 
> darryl



Darryl,

The D2 does not offer picture by picture or picture in picture. Nor is that something that seems to be on the wishlist of the many different owners posting in this thread -- who on the whole aren't shy about expressing their demands (grin!). Presuming we are representative of what Anthem is hearing, I wouldn't expect to see it anytime soon. As to whether it could be done, that's a tougher question. The Anthem does a significant amount of processing on its video path. I'm not sure it would have the processing power to handle two video input streams at the same time and maintain that quality. In addition, HDMI video's copy protection might get in the way if two HDMI video sources were to be merged.


I don't know the Gemstone amp. Folks are using all sorts of different amps with the D2. Of course some go one stop shopping and use the Anthem amps (P5, etc.) If you like your current amp, I'd suggest you keep it until you get familiar with your D2 and then you can work with your dealer to try out new amps at home and see for yourself.


"D2" and "economical" are two terms that seldom appear in the same sentence, but yes the D2 is good value for the money compared to a high end pre-pro combined with a high end video processor of current design. The level of integration provides added convenience as well.


Many people are using the D2 with equipment very similar to what you listed. Ruby owners seem particularly excited about how well it works with the D2. The D2 is excellent for HD-DVD, Blue Ray, and standard def DVD. I can't say there are any sources which I think don't match well with the D2. If you have a record turntable, you will need a separate phono-preamp prior to the D2 as the D2 does not have a dedicated phono-stage input.


The audio section of the D2 is the Anthem Statement D1. You will likely find reviews of the D1's audio around. Personnaly I think the audio of the D2 is very VERY good. It has exceeded my expectations for a surround sound processor, both for home theater and for music.


The audio side of the D2 lacks Room EQ -- a feature found in many high end audio systems. The rumor is that Anthem has been working on a very powerful Room EQ solution that is supposed to be added to the D2 early next year (free software on both the D2 and a PC plus a calibrated microphone that you pay for).


The video side of the D2 has one acknowledged weakness. Its noise reduction is not quite as powerful as the best such solutions out there. This is relevant if you watch a lot of crappy TV signals -- weak off air broadcasts for example. It is not an issue for video of normal to good quality such as is typically found on discs. Lest you get too concerned at this, I should point out that most people use their D2 with video noise reduction turned off anyway (which is also the factory default setting), i.e., they don't need it at all, much less need a more powerful version of it.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns

Obie_fl


I do have BHN cable. I also noticed they upgraded the software within the last several months. When I reboot the cable box it now displays a different screen. I do get audio via HDMI on all channels at 480i and 720p.


Do you have anything hooked up to the component and digital coax outs of the cable box in addition to the HDMI? I had component cable running from the box to one of the video inputs of my TV and the digital coax running from the box to the Anthem, so that I could listen to the music channels without turning on the TV, and also to do some comparisons on picture quality (Anthem processed via HDMI vs. component straight to TV). This produced some pretty wacky results, and I believe I had some problems with audio when I did this.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darryl b* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i'm really looking hard at the d2. i am reading this entire thread( believe it or not) i wanted to be sure to read answers to a few basic questions, so i posted them below.
> 
> 
> some of the out-board box vps now offer picture by picture and picture in picture. has the video section of d2 been supported with such upgrades? how are upgrades applied, easily?
> 
> 
> which amps are some of you using? i have a gemstone 200*7, is that in the same league as the d2?
> 
> 
> is the d2 economical compared to a pre/pro and out-board box vp?
> 
> 
> i have a ruby, am on pre-order for the jvc rs-1, will get hddvd and a ps3. will the antem statement d2 be the piece to rule such a system?
> 
> 
> i don't read much about d2 audio, what about the sound?
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> 
> darryl



The D2 does not currently do any picture in picture type display. I suppose the horsepower is there, but I don't know if the target market would demand it. I'm not even clear on how you would use it.


Upgrades are done via a serial port. Users can do it via a laptop or desktop PC, or your dealer can do it for a nominal fee if any.


I'm using a Rotel RMB-1077. It's a fine little multichannel amp, but I'll be upgrading at some point. I'm not familiar with the Gemstone, though.


The D2 is a preamp, video processor, surround sound processor, and analog/digital switcher all in one. Plus it has an AM-FM tuner







. It is *very* economical when you consider how much gear you are combining into one box. Another feature is that both audio and video are converted to digital and switched together, so everything you connect can have the same processing power applied to it. Of course, every input can have its own tweaked settings.


The D2 will rule whatever you hook to it. Period.


I've mostly used it for movie and HDTV playback, but the listening so far tells me the D2 is very very accurate (and as a former pro musician I'm pretty picky).


I think the basic architectural philosophy of the D2 is the way to go - an upgradable master controller that processes all signals.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been hearing and hearing about a 1080i BUG or Glitch.
> 
> 
> But I don't have a CLUE what everyone is talking about.



By all accounts it is obvious if you've got it: Send 1080i video to the Anthem, typically from a cable or satellite box, and the output video from the Anthem gets scrambled. In addition, video from other input sources, at any resolution, is now also hosed until you turn off the 1080i input and also power cycle the Anthem.


The only proven workaround if you have this bug is to set your sources so that they don't generate 1080i video output to the Anthem.


The problem has been reported for both HDMI and Component 1080i video, on both D2 and AVM-50 units running V1.10 or V1.11 software, and on units that have been delivered recently with that software installed or which have been upgraded by the owners themselves to that software.


HOWEVER, there are of course many D2 and AVM-50 owners who have done the upgrade themselves who do NOT have this problem, and there are also owners who have received new machines with this software pre-installed who do not have it. So V1.11 software does not ALWAYS cause the problem.


Re-installing the V1.11 software does not appear to eliminate the problem.


The problem does not exist in the prior V1.06 software.


Some few users with the problem have reported things they have done which made the problem vanish. However, up to now, none of those techniques seems to work for other folks with the problem.


Aren't you glad you asked?

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I and others here have not seen a better SD pic quality than the oppo D2 pairing especially when you throw in the ruby!
> 
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> ps. performance not price was the determining factor (at least for me!)



Once I got my D2 I labored over selling my Denon 5910 and getting an Oppo 970.

I bought the 970, and tested it for a while once satisified, I sold my 5910, reasoning being the Gennum was as good as the Realta. Havn't regretted my decision.


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Once I got my D2 I labored over selling my Denon 5910 and getting an Oppo 970.
> 
> I bought the 970, and tested it for a while once satisified, I sold my 5910, reasoning being the Gennum was as good as the Realta. Havn't regretted my decision.



OK, it's ordered! I'll get it in a couple of days and hopefully by then I'll have a working avm.


-Wayne


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> David, what's the model number of your Mits? Contrary to what the rumor mill says, the 2005 models do in fact accept and display a native 1080p signal. My WD-52628 is displaying 1080p/60 from the my AVM-50 without a problem. If you let me know your exact model number, I'll walk you through the steps of setting up the tv to pass through a native 1080p signal.



Nathan...Actually, I have a 2006 year model. The model # is 73927 (which is the Mits. diamond). Thanks for your help!!


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Obie_fl
> 
> 
> I do have BHN cable. I also noticed they upgraded the software within the last several months. When I reboot the cable box it now displays a different screen. I do get audio via HDMI on all channels at 480i and 720p.
> 
> 
> Do you have anything hooked up to the component and digital coax outs of the cable box in addition to the HDMI? I had component cable running from the box to one of the video inputs of my TV and the digital coax running from the box to the Anthem, so that I could listen to the music channels without turning on the TV, and also to do some comparisons on picture quality (Anthem processed via HDMI vs. component straight to TV). This produced some pretty wacky results, and I believe I had some problems with audio when I did this.



grr... I was hoping you weren't going to say that.









I have nothing hooked up to the D2 except HDMI, no component, no S/PDIF, no analog. Just to be clear you get audio on the 480i stations without the S/PDIF hooked up correct? Does your AVM-50 indicate it is receiving 480i on the 1 through 100 channels? What do you have the digital audio set to on the 8300? This use to work for me so now I'm wondering if my 1.10 install is good.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nathan...Actually, I have a 2006 year model. The model # is 73927 (which is the Mits. diamond). Thanks for your help!!



According to the literature on the Mits web site, your TV can, indeed, accept a 1920x1080p/60Hz signal, but only through the 15 pin connector intended for computer graphics.


I'm kind of curious myself what Nathan has up his sleave here!


Paticularly with regard to HDCP compliance....

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> grr... I was hoping you weren't going to say that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have nothing hooked up to the D2 except HDMI, no component, no S/PDIF, no analog. Just to be clear you get audio on the 480i stations without the S/PDIF hooked up correct? Does your AVM-50 indicate it is receiving 480i on the 1 through 100 channels? What do you have the digital audio set to on the 8300? This use to work for me so now I'm wondering if my 1.10 install is good.



Currently the only cable I have running from the box to the Anthem is HDMI (no component, digital coax, or analog). The Anthem displays 480i in channels 1-100. In the Setup/Presets menu Audio In is set to "Dig HDMI". Auto Dig is set to "No." Digital Out on the 8300 is set to "HDMI."


NOTE:


Before replying to your message I went to verify my settings. I turned on my cable box first and the Anthem next. GUESS WHAT? I had no audio on the analog channels! While changing channels I got the dreaded message "Your TV does not support HDCP....." I then turned off the Anthem and cable box. I disconnected the power to the cable box and waited several minutes. I then turned on the Anthem and let it run its course till I got the blue screen. I then connected the power back to the 8300 and let it reboot. When it finished rebooting I got audio back to all channels!! Give that a try and see what happens.


----------



## obie_fl

Thanks for checking. I've rebooted the cable box already but I'll have to try that again. Did you have audio on the HD channels before it hung with the HDCP message?


btw: You may already know this but the 1-100 channels are now broadcast as digital. Actually they are simulcasted with the analog versions.


----------



## ajeruns

Yes, I did have audio to the HD channels before I received the HDCP message. Didn't know the 1-100 channels were broadcast in digital. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nathan...Actually, I have a 2006 year model. The model # is 73927 (which is the Mits. diamond). Thanks for your help!!




Crap, I meant 2006, but hit the "5" by mistake.


Anyway, you can get 1080p passthrough on the VGA *or* HDMI-2 port. If you choose HDMI-2 (I don't have a VGA port on my 52628, so I use this), set up this input in NetCommand as a "Computer," then simply feed a 1080p signal to it. You won't see "1080p" in the upper-lefthand corner of the screen, but I assure you that you're seeing the native 1080p signal.







Just ignore any messages about unknown sync or the likes. Mitsubishi kinda snuck this in as an undocumented feature. I'm speculating here, but perhaps they were banking on fully supported 1080p with the 2007 models and wanted to try it out low-key on the 2006 ones. FWIW, check out the 2006 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (start here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post8818444 and read the next couple of pages) in the Rear Projection RPTV area for specifics.


Happy 1080p'ing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Crap, I meant 2006, but hit the "5" by mistake.
> 
> 
> Anyway, you can get 1080p passthrough on the VGA *or* HDMI-2 port. If you choose HDMI-2 (I don't have a VGA port on my 52628, so I use this), set up this input in NetCommand as a "Computer," then simply feed a 1080p signal to it. Voila, you're watching native 1080p.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FWIW, check out the 2006 Mitsubishi Owners Thread in the Rear Projection RPTV area for specifics.



Cool! I love undocumented features. I bet some engineer said, "It doesn't cost us anything, and somebody might figure out a way to use it, so lets enable 1080p over that HDMI port without telling marketing."


So this is a true 1080p HDMI connection, then -- complete with HDCP and without any computer-graphics-style limitations such as loss of Blacker than Black or Peak White data, right?


I've always liked Mitsubishi's stuff....

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk

On my D2 the defaults for many of the surround presets are PLIIX Movie I am using a Toshiba HD-A2, and a Panny BD10 Blu-Ray player. It appears that most of the titles are DTS, DTS-EX, etc, should I be changing my presets since I do not have any titles that are PLII? Also, when i put a movie in my D2 displays AL Cinema DD-EX, is that right?


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Cool! I love undocumented features. I bet some engineer said, "It doesn't cost us anything, and somebody might figure out a way to use it, so lets enable 1080p over that HDMI port without telling marketing."
> 
> 
> So this is a true 1080p HDMI connection, then -- complete with HDCP and without any computer-graphics-style limitations such as loss of Blacker than Black or Peak White data, right?
> 
> 
> I've always liked Mitsubishi's stuff....
> 
> --Bob




GET OUT OF MY HEAD, BOB!







In all seriousness, I edited my message to note the undocumented feature and then saw your reply echoing my thoughts and words. Wow.


With that said, you nailed the other caveat-- you lose all the internal Mitsubishi color and picture controls when using 1080p on HDMI-2. The PC input mode *severely* cripples user controls (no Perfect Color or other proprietary adjustments), but then again, that's why we have the Anthem's controls, eh?










It's not a perfect system, and the Mits is no Ruby or Pearl by any means, but it's an expensive display (at this point) with an added 1080p bonus. For what it's worth, I've done extensive testing with the WD-52628 and every built-in resolution in the AVM-50-- the 1080p/24, 1080p/25, and 1080p/30 outputs of the Anthem cause massive stuttering on the Mits, but the 1080p/50 and 1080p/60 work flawlessly.


----------



## obie_fl

Very few of the HD DVDs have DTS on them. You need to change the HDMI audio on the Toshiba to Auto or PCM from bitstream. What you are hearing is the re-encode to DTS that the A2 does. I imagine you want to do something similar on the Pany too.


You should then be able to apply DPIIx to the HDMI PCM six channel input.


----------



## Nathan_R

Also, dumb question and it's too late this evening to re-read the manual-- I just picked up "The Descent" on Blu-ray this afternoon and I've selected the LPCM 7.1 stream, but I can't get the Anthem to recognize anything greater than 5.1 PCM over HDMI. Is this a limitation of the Anthem, or have I set up something incorrectly in my Sammy P1000 or AVM-50?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also, dumb question and it's too late this evening to re-read the manual-- I just picked up "The Descent" on Blu-ray this afternoon and I've selected the LPCM 7.1 stream, but I can't get the Anthem to recognize anything greater than 5.1 PCM over HDMI. Is this a limitation of the Anthem, or have I set up something incorrectly in my Sammy P1000 or AVM-50?



The Anthems are limited to 5.1 PCM input -- from which they will generate 7.1 output via surround processing.

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> GET OUT OF MY HEAD, BOB!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all seriousness, I edited my message to note the undocumented feature and then saw your reply echoing my thoughts and words. Wow.
> 
> 
> With that said, you nailed the other caveat-- you lose all the internal Mitsubishi color and picture controls when using 1080p on HDMI-2. The PC input mode *severely* cripples user controls (no Perfect Color or other proprietary adjustments), but then again, that's why we have the Anthem's controls, eh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not a perfect system, and the Mits is no Ruby or Pearl by any means, but it's an expensive display (at this point) with an added 1080p bonus. For what it's worth, I've done extensive testing with the WD-52628 and every built-in resolution in the AVM-50-- the 1080p/24, 1080p/25, and 1080p/30 outputs of the Anthem cause massive stuttering on the Mits, but the 1080p/50 and 1080p/60 work flawlessly.



You guys are all awesome and much smarter than I am. I am so glad I joined this thread. I can't wait to try this out...Thanks Nathan and Bob!


----------



## m396 #00-011

*UPDATE*


I got a AVM50 v1.11 on Dec 22nd. It would take all signal inputs except for 1080i. It would process and output any signal.


I tried to software update with v1.11 on the website. After the successful update, I couldn't process any video, and didn't have OSD. I tried various methods of resoration with v1.11 and v1.06 with no luck. The v1.06 would never load, it failed on the FPGA error.


I recieved a v1.11a that successfully loaded and restored video processing and OSD, except for 1080i input.


Nick at Anthem assured me that they were working on it, however, he hasn't been able to contact any software engineers as they are off until Jan 2nd. I'm sure they will get this bug fixed shortly, as they do with anything else. The holidays are causing a slight delay from normal. I can understand the delay and I'm fine with a software fix by Jan 3rd....







I'm sure this will be taken care of shortly. The AVM line continues to impress me with the performance/price factor and I look forward to the next upgrade!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/0
> 
> *UPDATE*
> 
> 
> I got a AVM50 v1.11 on Dec 22nd. It would take all signal inputs except for 1080i. It would process and output any signal.
> 
> 
> I tried to software update with v1.11 on the website. After the successful update, I couldn't process any video, and didn't have OSD. I tried various methods of resoration with v1.11 and v1.06 with no luck. The v1.06 would never load, it failed on the FPGA error.
> 
> 
> I recieved a v1.11a that successfully loaded and restored video processing and OSD, except for 1080i input.
> 
> 
> Nick at Anthem assured me that they were working on it, however, he hasn't been able to contact any software engineers as they are off until Jan 2nd. I'm sure they will get this bug fixed shortly, as they do with anything else. The holidays are causing a slight delay from normal. I can understand the delay and I'm fine with a software fix by Jan 3rd....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure this will be taken care of shortly. The AVM line continues to impress me with the performance/price factor and I look forward to the next upgrade!



That's great news about your success with V1.11a. At least they're starting to get a handle on that problem. I've no doubt the 1080i input problem will be fixed in a hurry as well. As I said before, Anthem's going to have egg on their face with this one. And of course it WOULD have to happen right during the vacation season.


Darn you Murphey and your idiot law! Darn you to heck!

(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## neff2k

Hey guys,


Getting ready to give in to the desires of HD-DVD, I am not finding any information leading to believe I would be better off with the Toshiba HD-XA2. Seems since the AVM-50 will be doing all my video processing that I am better off just going with the Toshiba HD-A2. Anyone think differently?


Darrell


----------



## wes182

New to the forum and posting a basic question that might have been asked/answered already. What would the AVM50 do for a normal cable signal (Comcast) on an older 48" Mits RPTV (WS-48311) that does not have HDMI ? Any change? Make it look like DVD? Make it approach HDTV 1080i through component? I do get the HD package with Comcast and the difference between the normal 480i and HD is unbelievable. Difference between normal 480i and DVD 480p is noticeable. If my regular cable TV could come in DVD like quality then the AVM50 becomes a consideration. If it takes regular cable TV and turns it into HD like then an upgrade is a no-brainer !! If no noticeable difference then saving my upgrade $$ for another time. Thanks in advance.


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> Getting ready to give in to the desires of HD-DVD, I am not finding any information leading to believe I would be better off with the Toshiba HD-XA2. Seems since the AVM-50 will be doing all my video processing that I am better off just going with the Toshiba HD-A2. Anyone think differently?
> 
> 
> Darrell




I decided on the A2 instead of the XA2 for that very reason. Does'nt make much sense given the video processing capabilities of the AVM-50/D2


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Anthems are limited to 5.1 PCM input -- from which they will generate 7.1 output via surround processing.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Is this a hardware limitation in the Anthem ?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> Getting ready to give in to the desires of HD-DVD, I am not finding any information leading to believe I would be better off with the Toshiba HD-XA2. Seems since the AVM-50 will be doing all my video processing that I am better off just going with the Toshiba HD-A2. Anyone think differently?
> 
> 
> Darrell



I have a different opinion than *runnerlk!*


I have had the Toshiba A1 since Day One and processing the

1080i output to 1080p is great with the D2.


I didn't think it could get any better.


However - since last week - IT HAS BEEN BETTER - Thanks

to Santa. I received my Pioneer Elite Blu-Ray which can

output 1080p/24 natively without processing to the D2.


It is significantly better. Enough so that I NOW will upgrade

my Toshiba A1 to an XA2 - when I'm sure it does 1080p/24

natively without some reverse processing.


With that said - I think it all depends on screen size and whether

your display can actually display 1080p/24 natively.

*There is no SIMPLE ANSWER







*


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Is this a hardware limitation in the Anthem ?



I don't know the answer to that. In any event it is not a significant limitation.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wes182* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> New to the forum and posting a basic question that might have been asked/answered already. What would the AVM50 do for a normal cable signal (Comcast) on an older 48" Mits RPTV (WS-48311) that does not have HDMI ? Any change? Make it look like DVD? Make it approach HDTV 1080i through component? I do get the HD package with Comcast and the difference between the normal 480i and HD is unbelievable. Difference between normal 480i and DVD 480p is noticeable. If my regular cable TV could come in DVD like quality then the AVM50 becomes a consideration. If it takes regular cable TV and turns it into HD like then an upgrade is a no-brainer !! If no noticeable difference then saving my upgrade $$ for another time. Thanks in advance.



What's the technology of your older Mits? CRT? LCD?


A significant factor in 480i viewing quality is the de-interlacing that takes it to 480p prior to any scaling. The Anthem will do a LOT better job of that then your Comcast box, and, also, than your DVD player. In addition, many such TVs are optimized for 1080i input and so a good scaler feeding them 1080i from 480i sources (such as cable TV or DVD discs) will produce a noticeable improvement.


That said, standard def TV is not HDTV. You can't invent content that wasn't there in the first place. All you can do is keep it from being damaged further by crappy de-interlacing, or scaling, or the filtering that is often applied to 480i and 480p signals.


Also, many cable channels broadcast standard def TV content that has been damaged before it ever gets to your house. The stuff has been copied too many times and suitable care for signal levels has not been taken. Better imaging in your home system may make such garbage more noticeable, and thus more annoying. But some standard def cable broadcasts are really very good, and the Anthem will show quite a good result on an HDTV ready display.


However, the Anthem will ALSO improve the quality of your DVD imagery. A lot. And thus you will still find that DVD stuff looks better than SDTV cable stuff!


So everything will improve -- even your HDTV if you set stuff up right. But HDTV will look better than DVD which will look better than good SDTV channels which will look better than bad SDTV channels.

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a different opinion than *runnerlk!*
> 
> 
> I have had the Toshiba A1 since Day One and processing the
> 
> 1080i output to 1080p is great with the D2.
> 
> 
> I didn't think it could get any better.
> 
> 
> However - since last week - IT HAS BEEN BETTER - Thanks
> 
> to Santa. I received my Pioneer Elite Blu-Ray which can
> 
> output 1080p/24 natively without processing to the D2.
> 
> 
> It is significantly better. Enough so that I NOW will upgrade
> 
> my Toshiba A1 to an XA2 - when I'm sure it does 1080p/24
> 
> natively without some reverse processing.
> 
> 
> With that said - I think it all depends on screen size and whether
> 
> your display can actually display 1080p/24 natively.
> 
> 
> *There is no SIMPLE ANSWER
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *




Agreed,


My Panny PT-AE900 cannot display 1080p/24, I also have the Panny BD-10 Blu-Ray and doing a side by side comparison between the 2 I still prefer the A2, though I think that is more a function of the software rather than the player. I will be upgrading my 900 to the 1000 which is native 1080p which may cause me to upgrade my A2, darn.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Agreed,
> 
> 
> My Panny PT-AE900 cannot display 1080p/24, I also have the Panny BD-10 Blu-Ray and doing a side by side comparison between the 2 I still prefer the A2, though I think that is more a function of the software rather than the player. I will be upgrading my 900 to the 1000 which is native 1080p which may cause me to upgrade my A2, darn.



I think that is the bottom line.


If you don't need it why pay for it.


If you need it or PLAN to NEED it - then that is a different reason.


All I can say is with a Ruby and 12 FT. Screen - it does make a

difference.


----------



## vcs_wharvey

Do you guys know if the Sony KDS-60A2000 will accept the 1080p/24 signal from the AVM50? Thinking of upgrading.


-Wayne


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you guys know if the Sony KDS-60A2000 will accept the 1080p/24 signal from the AVM50? Thinking of upgrading.
> 
> 
> -Wayne



It is CONFUSING.


The Manual says --


It is only 1080i not even 1080p anything.


The Spec sheet says 1080p.


Don't know about 1080p/24 versus 1080p/60.


The spec sheet must be newer than the manual on the Sony Support Site.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you guys know if the Sony KDS-60A2000 will accept the 1080p/24 signal from the AVM50? Thinking of upgrading.
> 
> 
> -Wayne



Just enter the MODEL #


http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/sel...?DIRECTOR=DOCS


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Anthems are limited to 5.1 PCM input -- from which they will generate 7.1 output via surround processing.
> 
> --Bob



Darn, just set up the PS3 and turned on the 7.1 PCMs. Back to the settings. There is not much software in the way of discrete 6 channel but with a 7 channel setup it is definitely more enveloping played discretely than synthesized (IIx style or otherwise). I would put this on the definite want list.


Has this been discussed as a future feature or is it limited to HDMI 1.3 or some hardware/bandwidth constraint?


Incidentally pretty jazzed by the PS3 as a Blu-Ray player, and working out the IR remote programming now, ie using a PS2 IR receiver/remote off a USB->PS2 adapter. I was thinking of going the Pio Blu-Ray route and could dump the 59AVi in the process to free up an HDMI port, but for about a third of the cost (595 vs 1500 +tax and/or shipping) and the fact that I like my old 59 and can keep it set up consistently for SD & most music, I'll slum it with the PS3










Having been through most of Pio's flagship receivers and LD and DVD players, I know there will be a better player out at half the cost with more features in a year, and I'm not losing anything in the interim.


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just enter the MODEL #
> 
> 
> http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/sel...?DIRECTOR=DOCS




Thanks! Will bookmark it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks who have HDMI displays I'm curious how many of you have settled on YCbCr 4:4:4 format vs. YCbCr 4:2:2 format for output from the Anthems.


Not all displays will allow both YCbCr formats, and some HDMI displays (and ALL DVI displays) will require RGB format so it's not an option.


YCbCr 4:4:4 format sends 24 bits per pixel made up of 8 bits of luminance data (the Y) and 2 channels, of 8 bits each, of color difference data (the Cb and Cr).


YCbCr 4:2:2 format on the other hand cuts the horizontal color resolution in half -- one color sample is sent for every two luminance samples. But because of that it can, if the display supports it, send more bits per sample! What happens is that you can send up to 12 bits per pixel of luminance data and, in essence, 6 bits per pixel for each of the Cb and Cr channels. It still averages out as 24 bits per pixel. It's just that it takes two pixels to get the next color sample. That means both luminance and color data go out as more bits per sample, but you only have half as many color samples per line as compared to gray scale samples.


This works because the eye can not resolve fine color detail to the same degree it can resolve fine luminance detail. Of course the display has to convert this back to color data on a per pixel basis before it can light up the screen, but the result might be superior, particularly as regards gray scale smoothness.


[For reference: What comes out of the decoder in DVD players is YCbCr 4:2:2 data -- only half as much horizontal color resolution as luminance resolution -- but at only 8 bits per luminance sample and 8 bits x 2 for each of the half-as-frequent color samples. The video output stage of the player converts that as necessary according to the type of output cabling and the format requested. What's actually on the DISC is even worse -- what's called 4:2:0 format -- which ALSO halves the VERTICAL color resolution! The DVD player re-constitutes the missing vertical color resolution before sending the signal along to the video output stage. Think of it as another kind of scaling. This is true for all DVD players, even the old, original, non-progressive designs. It is tricky to do this right given both film and video based content. Players that managed to screw up this process suffered from the infamous Color Upsampling Error or "CUE".]


Now just because the TV accepts YCbCr 4:2:2 doesn't mean it ALSO supports 12 bit sample sizes. The data rate of 12 bits each, per Y, Cb, and CR channel sample -- leading to 24 bits per pixel (since Cb and Cr come along only half as frequently) is just the max. Other formats are 10 bits per channel sample and 8 bits per channel sample (as in DVD data). So it is not obvious which format, 4:4:4 or 4:2:2, should be better for some random HDMI TV. But I believe the Anthem DOES support the larger sample sizes for 4:2:2, and so it might be worth a try.


And thus my question. Who's using what, and do you see a difference?

--Bob


==============================

edited to add some detail.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And thus my question. Who's using what, and do you see a difference?
> 
> --Bob



I have it set to *ATUO*. So I don't know [GRIN]!


Making decisions is TOO MUCH LIKE WORK for me [GRIN]!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have it set to *ATUO*. So I don't know [GRIN]!
> 
> 
> Making decisions is TOO MUCH LIKE WORK for me [GRIN]!



Well as I recall you are going into a DVI connection on your projector anyway, so AUTO will necessarily result in RGB for you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, for anyone who wants to experiment with this YCbCr 4:4:4 vs. 4:2:2 stuff (presuming your display allows) be aware that you may have to adjust your calibration levels differently for the two different formats. So check calibration each way before you do any critical viewing to decide which looks better.


In addition, if you are going to see a difference here I suspect you will see it first in gray "ramp" charts from, say, a calibration DVD.


Note that the original 4:2:0 and then 4:2:2 data resulting from DVD discs does NOT contain the extra bits. Nor do they exist in any TV broadcast (not even HDTV) nor in HD-DVD or Blue Ray discs. The extra bits only result from image processing that goes on inside one device or another, such as inside the Anthem itself.


You should also check your display's owner manual. You may need to enable one or the other of these formats on the display side for it to work.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well as I recall you are going into a DVI connection on your projector anyway, so AUTO will necessarily result in RGB for you.
> 
> --Bob



I can switch between HDMI and DVI.


I like HMDI - WAY WAY BETTER.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can switch between HDMI and DVI.
> 
> 
> I like HMDI - WAY WAY BETTER.



Oh that's interesting. I thought your Ruby only accepted the 1080p/48Hz stuff over the DVI connection.


So are you using HDMI for 1080p/60Hz?


Can you describe the difference you see between the HDMI and DVI hookups? There is a real possibility that they need to be calibrated differently.

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For folks who have HDMI displays I'm curious how many of you have settled on YCbCr 4:4:4 format vs. YCbCr 4:2:2 format for output from the Anthems.
> 
> 
> Not all displays will allow both YCbCr formats, and some HDMI displays (and ALL DVI displays) will require RGB format so it's not an option.
> 
> 
> YCbCr 4:4:4 format sends 24 bits per pixel made up of 8 bits of luminance data (the Y) and 2 channels, of 8 bits each, of color difference data (the Cb and Cr).
> 
> 
> YCbCr 4:2:2 format on the other hand cuts the horizontal color resolution in half -- one color sample is sent for every two luminance samples. But because of that it can, if the display supports it, send more bits per sample! What happens is that you can send up to 12 bits per pixel of luminance data and, in essence, 6 bits per pixel for each of the Cb and Cr channels. It still averages out as 24 bits per pixel. It's just that it takes two pixels to get the next color sample. That means both luminance and color data go out as more bits per pixel, but you only have half as many color samples per line.
> 
> 
> This works because the eye can not resolve fine color detail to the same degree it can resolve fine luminance detail. Of course the display has to convert this back to color data on a per pixel basis before it can light up the screen, but the result might be superior, particularly as regards gray scale smoothness.
> 
> 
> [For reference: What comes out of the decoder in DVD players is YCbCr 4:2:2 data -- only half as much horizontal color resolution as luminance resolution. The video output stage of the player converts that as necessary according to the type of output cabling and the format requested. What's actually on the DISC is even worse -- what's called 4:2:0 format -- which ALSO halves the VERTICAL color resolution! The DVD player re-constitutes the missing vertical color resolution before sending the signal along to the video output stage. Think of it as another kind of scaling. This is true for all DVD players, even the old, original, non-progressive designs. It is tricky to do this right given both film and video based content. Players that managed to screw up this process suffered from the infamous Color Upsampling Error or "CUE".]
> 
> 
> Now just because the TV accepts YCbCr 4:2:2 doesn't mean it ALSO supports 12 bit sample sizes. So it is not obvious which format should be better for some random HDMI TV. But I believe the Anthem DOES support the larger sample sizes for 4:2:2, and so it might be worth a try.
> 
> 
> And thus my question. Who's using what, and do you see a difference?
> 
> --Bob




Bob,


I am using 4:4:4, and do notice a slight improvement.


Lou


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I am using 4:4:4, and do notice a slight improvement.
> 
> 
> Lou



Can you describe the difference?


As I understand it you are saying 4:4:4 is better than 4:2:2 with your display. Remind me, what's your display? Do you happen to know if it is spec'ed to accept 10 bit or 12 bit samples via HDMI 4:2:2? If it only accepts 8 bit samples, then 4:4:4 is surely the way to go.

--Bob


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Let's see, yes, you want the D2 output to be 1920x1080p/60Hz for such a display.
> 
> 
> Yes you want 1:1 pixel addressing. Since the display has a 1920x1080p native pixel matrix, all that means is that there's no artifical overscan introduced by the display's circuitry. All 1920x1080 pixels of the input signal will light up visible pixels on the display.



Bob: Thanks for the answer.


I've read that if you're using an external VP, then having a display with 1:1 pixel mapping is critical since this allows complete by-passing of any processing by the display . Now I'm not so sure. It does seem clear that the D2 should do all the video processing. This should mean completely eliminating any display processing. Can this be adequately done without 1:1 mapping? If I send a 1080p/60Hz signal from the D2 to a 1080p/60Hz display won't that eliminate any processing by the display ... even without the display being capable of 1:1 mapping?


I've heard that there is often noise/garbage hidden in the overscan and that, without adjustment, 1:1 mapping can reveal the garbage. So, if I'm *not* using a PC, is 1:1 mapping all that important? That is, does its use really affect (help to eliminate) display processing to a point where it makes a difference in the final PQ?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The DVI input on the commercial unit will limit you to RGB color format from the D2. The D2 does some additional dithering of dark grays near black to make that work. I'd suggest you get a replacement HDMI card to avoid that. By the way this is also why you have no Color control.
> 
> 
> The idea that RGB input is better for plasmas is not really true any longer. Although the plasma will convert the HDMI's YCbCr input to RGB as part of its internal processing, modern plasmas do that using extra bit depth in the math, so the conversion is, for all practical purposes, perfect. And the Anthem will take care of any "color space" variations automatically. Just pick an HDMI input card that's known to work well for this unit.
> 
> 
> An HDMI to HDMI connection is also more reliable than an HDMI to DVI connection, particularly as the cable gets longer, and particularly given you are pushing the bandwidth. The difference is the newer driver chips used for HDMI.



Panasonic is working on an HDMI 1.3 board for the commerical 65" Panny plasma. It will just snap in. However, given the *internal* *refresh rate* of 60Hz and the other internal limitations (inability to process deep color and larger color space) will being able to add an HDMI 1.3 board have any advantage over the HDMI 1.1 input currently on the consumer model? I think this (kind of) relates to your current question:



> Quote:
> ....how many of you have settled on YCbCr 4:4:4 format vs. YCbCr 4:2:2 format for output from the Anthems.



I know some of these questions are slightly OT, but you know more than the members on the plasma threads. Don't tell them I said that.










Actually, the more knowledge we have in all these areas, the better we should be able to take advantage of the D2's capabilites. That includes the decison of what display to pair with it.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For this kind of bucks, you should also take a serious gander at a front projection system as an alternative. You might be able to save money and still get a bigger image almost as bright. Plus you'll be able to fiddle with "judder free" settings.



The problem is that my HT set-up is in a room with too much light. There's no way to darken the room enough. The room is in a very open area of the house. I'm also accustomed to direct view displays (CRT and Plasma) and I can't get use to rear or front projection with video sources. If I had a dedicated HT room, for film only, it would be different.


I'm thinking about waiting for a 65" + plasma with a 120hz *refresh* rate. I just have a feeling it's several years away and the price will be astronomical. I notice that there are at least 2 LCDs that now have a *refresh rate* of 120 ... but they're 1366 X 768 and the largest is 37" JVC 37" LCD TV with 120hz Clear Motion Drive Thanks again.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh that's interesting. I thought your Ruby only accepted the 1080p/48Hz stuff over the DVI connection.
> 
> 
> So are you using HDMI for 1080p/60Hz?
> 
> 
> Can you describe the difference you see between the HDMI and DVI hookups? There is a real possibility that they need to be calibrated differently.
> 
> --Bob



1) You are right - as of today the Ruby only accepts 1080p/48 over DVI.


2) After going through the Service Manuals and Schematics for BOTH the

Ruby and the Pearl - I'm convinced the Ruby can be MADE to Accept 1080p/48

over HDMI. To enable that - the internal Memory needs to be reprogrammed.


3) I'm still on a MISSION to find the Super Secret way to do that.


4) The sharpness on HDMI input outways the Judder Improvement over DVI.


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a different opinion than *runnerlk!*
> 
> 
> I have had the Toshiba A1 since Day One and processing the
> 
> 1080i output to 1080p is great with the D2.
> 
> 
> I didn't think it could get any better.
> 
> 
> However - since last week - IT HAS BEEN BETTER - Thanks
> 
> to Santa. I received my Pioneer Elite Blu-Ray which can
> 
> output 1080p/24 natively without processing to the D2.
> 
> 
> It is significantly better. Enough so that I NOW will upgrade
> 
> my Toshiba A1 to an XA2 - when I'm sure it does 1080p/24
> 
> natively without some reverse processing.
> 
> 
> With that said - I think it all depends on screen size and whether
> 
> your display can actually display 1080p/24 natively.
> 
> *There is no SIMPLE ANSWER
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



You know you guys cost me a lot of money. I am just trying to get the picture on my Sony 13" black & white to look the best it possibly can.










Well currently my Hitachi 70VX915 only accepts 1080i, so 1080p isn't really a necessity at this point. Although if I don't keep my nose out of that dang plasma forum, it may matter sooner than I expect.


Well I will think it over for a couple days and wait for reports on the XA2 vs the A2. There are sure to be a couple AVM50/D2 owners who will make the switch. Bob weren't you going to buy both and giving us a comparison, could have swore that you said something about it







(Kidding)


Thanks for the input.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 4) The sharpness on HDMI input outways the Judder Improvement over DVI.



This is very strange. There shouldn't be that kind of difference between the two connections. I wonder if it is a YCbCr vs RGB difference. If not, I wonder what the Ruby is doing differently for signals from those two inputs.


The calibration thing I alluded to was that the DVI input may expect Extended RGB instead of Studio RGB. But you've got Auto output on the Anthem anyway so that should take care of that for you.


Ah well, lots of things for you to experiment with -- when you get in the mood again.... (grin!)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dobe,

Since you have a 1920x1080p display, sending it a 1920x1080p signal should produce the identical result whether or not you have 1:1 turned on. That is the display should simply bypass its internal scaler, or the scaler should simply decide it has no work to do which is essentially the same thing.


Some displays offer artificially produced over-scan by default. Setting 1:1 turns that off.


For some displays, setting 1:1 may disable certain features you would like to use such as calibration level adjustments.


The primary purpose of the 1:1 setting is for computer graphics cards that produce an odd resolution close to but not quite the same as the display's native resolution. 1:1 keeps the scaler from adjusting that image at the expense of either losing some pixels off the side or having thin black borders.


---------------------------------------------------


There's no point in waiting for an HDMI V1.3 interface or paying a premium for one. But if they offer one at a reasonable price there's also no reason to NOT get it. It is unlikely you will see any advantage on screen unless their current HDMI card is known to have problems.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob weren't you going to buy both and giving us a comparison, could have swore that you said something about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Kidding)



Nope, I'm holding out waiting for someone to finally do it right.


Maybe Oppo will come out with one....

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is very strange. There shouldn't be that kind of difference between the two connections.
> 
> --Bob



In *THEORY* - I agree 100%.


In Theory there should be NO VISIBLE Difference.


Alain did confirm this REALITY - However.


----------



## Nevr2Big




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You know you guys cost me a lot of money. I am just trying to get the picture on my Sony 13" black & white to look the best it possibly can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well currently my Hitachi 70VX915 only accepts 1080i, so 1080p isn't really a necessity at this point. Although if I don't keep my nose out of that dang plasma forum, it may matter sooner than I expect.
> 
> 
> Well I will think it over for a couple days and wait for reports on the XA2 vs the A2. There are sure to be a couple AVM50/D2 owners who will make the switch. Bob weren't you going to buy both and giving us a comparison, could have swore that you said something about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Kidding)
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input.



Sorry in advance for the knucklehead question (I'm trying to get a grip on this newest technology):


I am considering a purchase of the AVM50 or D2 in large part due to its mating of audio and video processing. I also intend to purchase a proj capable of 1080p/24 input. If my Bluray or HDDVD player is outputting a 1080p/24 signal (doing its own upconversion/processing), this signal is "passed thru" the D2 to my projector. So assuming the Bluray/HDdvd player can perform this upconversion with SD discs as well, the only real advantage of the D2's gennum scaler is for cable box feeds (up to and including 1080i) or to function as a video switcher? Is it for easier management of lip synch delays and such?


Please set me straight here! Thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry in advance for the knucklehead question (I'm trying to get a grip on this newest technology):
> 
> 
> I am considering a purchase of the AVM50 or D2 in large part due to its mating of audio and video processing. I also intend to purchase a proj capable of 1080p/24 input. If my Bluray or HDDVD player is outputting a 1080p/24 signal (doing its own upconversion/processing), this signal is "passed thru" the D2 to my projector. So assuming the Bluray/HDdvd player can perform this upconversion with SD discs as well, the only real advantage of the D2's gennum scaler is for cable box feeds (up to and including 1080i) or to function as a video switcher? Is it for easier management of lip synch delays and such?
> 
> 
> Please set me straight here! Thanks.



Absolutely Correct. If all your sources are 1080p/24 - the Video Scaler is

just functioning as a switcher - unless of course your sources are SD.


The other Issue is - TO ENJOY new audio codecs - you need a Audio

processor that picks the audio off the HDMI interface. So even if the

D2 is just doing switching - because your VIDEO is 1080p/24 - you

still need that HDMI switching function to get the Lossless Audio from

either HD DVD or Blu-Ray.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry in advance for the knucklehead question (I'm trying to get a grip on this newest technology):
> 
> 
> I am considering a purchase of the AVM50 or D2 in large part due to its mating of audio and video processing. I also intend to purchase a proj capable of 1080p/24 input. If my Bluray or HDDVD player is outputting a 1080p/24 signal (doing its own upconversion/processing), this signal is "passed thru" the D2 to my projector. So assuming the Bluray/HDdvd player can perform this upconversion with SD discs as well, the only real advantage of the D2's gennum scaler is for cable box feeds (up to and including 1080i) or to function as a video switcher? Is it for easier management of lip synch delays and such?
> 
> 
> Please set me straight here! Thanks.



Not all de-interlacing and scaling solutions are created equal.


The odds are high that whatever HD-DVD or Blue Ray player you get, the Anthem will do a better job of turning the 480i data coming off the standard DVD disc into the 1080p/24Hz signal you want to send to your projector.


What you want to do is to set the HD-DVD or Blue Ray player to send HDMI 480i to the Anthem for standard DVD discs. Let the Anthem do all the de-interlacing, scaling, and frame rate conversion. Meanwhile, set the HD-DVD or Blue Ray player to send HDMI 1080p/24Hz to the Anthem for HD-DVD or Blue Ray movies presuming they are known to do that well. Otherwise set them to send 1080i/60Hz to the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Nevr2Big




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Absolutely Correct. If all your sources are 1080p/24 - the Video Scaler is
> 
> just functioning as a switcher - unless of course your sources are SD.
> 
> 
> The other Issue is - TO ENJOY new audio codecs - you need a Audio
> 
> processor that picks the audio off the HDMI interface. So even if the
> 
> D2 is just doing switching - because your VIDEO is 1080p/24 - you
> 
> still need that HDMI switching function to get the Lossless Audio from
> 
> either HD DVD or Blu-Ray.



Thanks, that helps. One more compound question if you could oblige:


I have been seeing much banter regarding HDMI 1.3 though I remain unsure if I should care. I have a 5.1 system now and plan to keep it this way for at least the near future. If I understand correctly, the upcoming HDMI 1.3 will allow lossless audio which should theoretically sound better (though many past years of loud music may likely have rendered my ears less capable than many a resident here). Does the D2/AVM50 process the HDMI 1.3 info (or has Anthem said it can be upgraded to do so should I decide I want to have it)?


Lastly, what are the major differences between the D2 and AVM50? I have been to the Anthem website and looked at the comparison chart. It appears that the D2 has more DSP capability, longer lip synch delay, and DTS 96/24differences . I am not familiar with the 24/192 upsampling though this would appear to be important. I would prefer to keep the extra $2K in my pocket if it only buys me bells and whistles I wont be using much or at all (however would gladly hand it over if there were significant sonic or video differences I would perceive).


Thanks for any light you can shead on this for me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, that helps. One more compound question if you could oblige:
> 
> 
> I have been seeing much banter regarding HDMI 1.3 though I remain unsure if I should care. I have a 5.1 system now and plan to keep it this way for at least the near future. If I understand correctly, the upcoming HDMI 1.3 will allow lossless audio which should theoretically sound better (though many past years of loud music may likely have rendered my ears less capable than many a resident here). Does the D2/AVM50 process the HDMI 1.3 info (or has Anthem said it can be upgraded to do so should I decide I want to have it)?
> 
> 
> Lastly, what are the major differences between the D2 and AVM50? I have been to the Anthem website and looked at the comparison chart. It appears that the D2 has more DSP capability, longer lip synch delay, and DTS 96/24differences . I am not familiar with the 24/192 upsampling though this would appear to be important. I would prefer to keep the extra $2K in my pocket if it only buys me bells and whistles I wont be using much or at all (however would gladly hand it over if there were significant sonic or video differences I would perceive).
> 
> 
> Thanks for any light you can shead on this for me.



You do not need HDMI V1.3 to get lossless audio from these players. The HDMI V1.1 in the Anthems does that just fine. What happens is that the player sends lossless, multi-channel PCM to the Anthems. It works today.


The D2 and the AVM-50 have the same video solution.


The D2 has a better power supply and a more exotic audio solution than the AVM-50.


In addition the D2 has spare DSP processing power which will be utilized by a Room EQ solution next year.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In *THEORY* - I agree 100%.
> 
> 
> In Theory there should be NO VISIBLE Difference.
> 
> 
> Alain did confirm this REALITY - However.



Well if it is that noticeable, I'd say there is something wrong with the DVI input on the Ruby. I could think of a number of things the Ruby might be doing to screw up here, but this is the first I'd heard anyone had image quality issues with the Ruby's DVI input.


Have you tried running resolution test charts to see if it is as gross as the Ruby mistakenly dropping things down to 540p before resetting back to 1080p?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not all de-interlacing and scaling solutions are created equal.
> 
> 
> The odds are high that whatever HD-DVD or Blue Ray player you get, the Anthem will do a better job of turning the 480i data coming off the standard DVD disc into the 1080p/24Hz signal you want to send to your projector.
> 
> --Bob



As ALWAYS - I have to agree with Bob's OPINION - IN THEORY.


However my NEW results confirm what I thought I was seeing.


I have been using the Toshiba HD-A1 to do upconverting of SD

DVDs to 1080i before it goes to the D2 to be converted to 1080p.


I have stated here that the upconverting ability of the Toshiba was

as good as one might want. After all remember - the SOURCE is

still SD and some COMPUTER is doing its thing to make it better.

So - it will never be as good as HD.


Bob and Others have said - I need to trying SD at 480i over HDMI

and letting the D2 do the upconverting. Before last week I had no

way of testing that to see if they were right. Last week I got a

Pioneer Blu-Ray that outputs 1080p/24 [WOW is the WORD].


But for the first time - I could play a SD DVD at 480i over HDMI

to the D2 for converting to 1080p.


I STILL STAND PAT - the Toshiba does a better job than the D2.

I'm sorry to say that Bob - But that is what I SEE!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well if it is that noticeable, I'd say there is something wrong with the DVI input on the Ruby. I could think of a number of things the Ruby might be doing to screw up here, but this is the first I'd heard anyone had image quality issues with the Ruby's DVI input.
> 
> 
> Have you tried running resolution test charts to see if it is as gross as the Ruby mistakenly dropping things down to 540p before resetting back to 1080p?
> 
> --Bob



Alain Levesque - Confirmed that is what us Ruby Owners have to live with.

I'll take it up with SONY at CES. Just to name a few things I will be talking

to them about.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But for the first time - I could play a SD DVD at 480i over HDMI
> 
> to the D2 for converting to 1080p.
> 
> 
> I STILL STAND PAT - the Toshiba does a better job than the D2.
> 
> I'm sorry to say that Bob - But that is what I SEE!



I do not know that the Pioneer Blue Ray has yet been certified to do a proper job of turning standard DVDs into HDMI 480i.


That aside, if you are seeing a better result from letting the Toshiba do the de-interlacing and scaling (to 1080i) of standard DVDs then I have to believe there is something wrong with the way you have 480i set up from the Pioneer. It could be as simple as YCbCr vs. RGB input selection, or it could be levels, or it could be clipping near blacks or near whites.


Pioneer has a long history of making standard DVD players that do, umm, peculiar things with HDMI 480i, requiring workarounds in the way they are set.


I'd be more surprised if you said that you thought the Toshiba solution was better than what the Anthem could do with input from an Oppo 970.


Anyway that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd be more surprised if you said that you thought the Toshiba solution was better than what the Anthem could do with input from an Oppo 970.
> 
> 
> Anyway that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
> 
> --Bob



I don't know about any Oppo.


I don't have one.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well if it is that noticeable, I'd say there is something wrong with the DVI input on the Ruby. I could think of a number of things the Ruby might be doing to screw up here, but this is the first I'd heard anyone had image quality issues with the Ruby's DVI input.



Sadly Bob, William Phelps himself did confirmed the fact that the DVI connection on the Ruby was less sharp then the HDMI connection. So you have to pick your poison. Less sharp but judder-free over DVI, or more sharp but at 1080p60 over HDMI. Pearl owners can have the best of both worlds.


But! We are really splitting hair in 4 here. The difference insharpness is really small between the DVI and HDMI connection on the Ruby, almost insignificant. I'm sure alot of people wouldn't notice it if we didn't told them there was a difference between the 2 inputs.










But AVSers are more picky (has we can clearly see in this thread!







), and some will be bothered by the smallest thing. Alot of people on AVS are using the Ruby at 1080p48 over the DVI connection with external scalers and are really happy with the results, and are not bothered at all by the "less sharp" picture.










And we can also agree that alot of people are used to judder (we were raised looking at it every day on TV...) and don't even realized what it is until they see the other way around. And even then, some are more annoyed by judder then others, who don't see the "big" difference at all...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sadly Bob, William Phelps himself did confirmed the fact that the DVI connection on the Ruby was less sharp then the HDMI connection. So you have to pick your poison. Less sharp but judder-free over DVI, or more sharp but at 1080p60 over HDMI. Pearl owners can have the best of both worlds.
> 
> 
> But! We are really splitting hair in 4 here. The difference insharpness is really small between the DVI and HDMI connection on the Ruby, almost insignificant. I'm sure alot of people wouldn't notice it if we didn't told them there was a difference between the 2 inputs.



Any idea what they screwed up on the DVI side? This is really odd. If I wanted to set out to do this on purpose I'm not sure I'd find a way.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any idea what they screwed up on the DVI side? This is really odd. If I wanted to set out to do this on purpose I'm not sure I'd find a way.
> 
> --Bob



I know and I totally agree. But who am I to argue with William Phelps?







William is a reference.


----------



## abc999

Can the AVM50 be uses for Constant Height Application? I have a Mitsu hc5000 and the AVM50. Can this combo work?


----------



## rudolpht

DVI so RGB. That's what saved me from the "Green screen of terror" first time out around the block.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The difference insharpness is really small between the DVI and HDMI connection on the Ruby, almost insignificant. I'm sure alot of people wouldn't notice it if we didn't told them there was a difference between the 2 inputs.



In my theater it was like going back to my CRT displays at 1080i.


I would not call that insignificant.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can the AVM50 be uses for Constant Height Application? I have a Mitsu hc5000 and the AVM50. Can this combo work?



I haven't looked into that. What do you need the AVM-50 to do to support this?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> .


*Alain* -- Did you pick up your Pioneer Yet?


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you describe the difference?
> 
> 
> As I understand it you are saying 4:4:4 is better than 4:2:2 with your display. Remind me, what's your display? Do you happen to know if it is spec'ed to accept 10 bit or 12 bit samples via HDMI 4:2:2? If it only accepts 8 bit samples, then 4:4:4 is surely the way to go.
> 
> --Bob




I have a Panasonic PT-AE900U, the colors are slightly more defined and the blacks are marginally blacker. For instance, there is a scene in Flyying Dagger when the blind girl is dancing in a room while the cheif is throwing beans at her the colors of that room are richer and more vibrant. Not sure if it accepts 8,10 or 12, I ll have to research it some.


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ....The video side of the D2 has one acknowledged weakness. Its noise reduction is not quite as powerful as the best such solutions out there. This is relevant if you watch a lot of crappy TV signals -- weak off air broadcasts for example. It is not an issue for video of normal to good quality such as is typically found on discs. Lest you get too concerned at this, I should point out that most people use their D2 with video noise reduction turned off anyway (which is also the factory default setting), i.e., they don't need it at all, much less need a more powerful version of it.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Noise reduction can be an important feature. It's an especially important feature if it can reduce noise ... without softening the picture. I know that ability is limited to a very few processors. Video noise can greatly affect my enjoyment of a film or a program. This is one of my concerns with owning a larger display. The larger the display the more obvious the artifacts.


My experience is that there are *compression artifacts* from limited bandwidth, which is most noticeable in Cable or Satellite broadcasts, and there are *deinterlacing artifacts* which result from poor deinterlacing in DVD players, satellite and cable STBs.


Mosquito noise and Blocking artifacts (macroblocking) are the result.


When you say that the D2 has a weakness in "noise reduction", I'm assuming you mean "noise" that results from limited bandwidth (compression artifacts) and not noise that results from poor deinterlacing. My understanding is that the D2 uses motion adaptive deinterlacing which eliminates deinterlacing artifacts.


I significantly upgraded my system about 4 years ago, except that I keep an inferior progressive scan JVC DVD player. As my viewing became more critical, I noticed artifacts (noise) when watching certain DVDs. In "Monsters INC." I noticed noise around the hinges of a bathroom door and at the edges of the monsters fur. I replaced the JVC with the Pioneer 59 avi and immediately noticed that almost all the noise disappeared.


I'm guessing this was a result of the better deinterlacer in the Pioneer. I'm also guessing that the D2 will eliminate this kind of noise in a 480i signal sent over HDMI by the OPPO through the D2 to any display.


I'm also guessing, from what you said, that the D2 is no "Mosquito" when it comes to eliminating compression artifacts. So I shouldn't expect *video noise* from over-compressed satellite, cable or OTA signals to be eliminated ... or even reduced? ... by the D2?


If I want that, I would also need to buy a "Mosquito"? Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Noise reduction can be an important feature. It's an especially important feature if it can reduce noise ... without softening the picture. I know that ability is limited to a very few processors. Video noise can greatly affect my enjoyment of a film or a program. This is one of my concerns with owning a larger display. The larger the display the more obvious the artifacts.
> 
> 
> My experience is that there are *compression artifacts* from limited bandwidth, which is most noticeable in Cable or Satellite broadcasts, and there are *deinterlacing artifacts* which result from poor deinterlacing in DVD players, satellite and cable STBs.
> 
> 
> Mosquito noise and Blocking artifacts (macroblocking) are the result.
> 
> 
> When you say that the D2 has a weakness in "noise reduction", I'm assuming you mean "noise" that results from limited bandwidth (compression artifacts) and not noise that results from poor deinterlacing. My understanding is that the D2 uses motion adaptive deinterlacing which eliminates deinterlacing artifacts.
> 
> 
> I significantly upgraded my system about 4 years ago, except that I keep an inferior progressive scan JVC DVD player. As my viewing became more critical, I noticed artifacts (noise) when watching certain DVDs. In "Monsters INC." I noticed noise around the hinges of a bathroom door and at the edges of the monsters fur. I replaced the JVC with the Pioneer 59 avi and immediately noticed that almost all the noise disappeared.
> 
> 
> I'm guessing this was a result of the better deinterlacer in the Pioneer. I'm also guessing that the D2 will eliminate this kind of noise in a 480i signal sent over HDMI by the OPPO through the D2 to any display.
> 
> 
> I'm also guessing, from what you said, that the D2 is no "Mosquito" when it comes to eliminating compression artifacts. So I shouldn't expect *video noise* from over-compressed satellite, cable or OTA signals to be eliminated ... or even reduced? ... by the D2?
> 
> 
> If I want that, I would also need to buy a "Mosquito"? Thanks.



The noise reduction I'm talking about is typical analog TV broadcast noise. See the HQV test disc for more info. The Realta stuff is the champ at reducing this right now. The D2's Gennum stuff tackles it about half as well.


If your TV provider is treating you to a lot of compression noise (think DirecTV) the Mosquito would be well worth looking into. It fills a very special niche.


You won't have any de-interlacing artifacts to worry about if you let the D2 do all your de-interlacing.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I haven't looked into that. What do you need the AVM-50 to do to support this?
> 
> --Bob



I think it is called horizontal stretch wherein a 2.35 movie will fill the whole 16:9 area of the display device LCD (in my case) making the image taller. Then using an anamorphic lens in front of the display's lens assembly stretching it back horizontally to correct the the image. Those with this setup claims that it increases brightness by 20% and maybe around 30% in resolution since you use the whole 1080x1920 pixel area of the device.


This is what I understand, I might be wrong.


Alvin


----------



## bluemark81

If I were to purchase a new display for use with my AVM50, what do you folks recommend? I am looking for 55" to 60" panel or rear projection capable of 1080p. I've been considering Panasonics plasma or Sony's SXRD.


Thanks,


----------



## LEVESQUE

DOBE.


You can always buy the Algolith Flea if you want powerful noise reduction. But with DVDs, HD-DVDs and Blu-rays, you don't want to use NR. But with satellite or cable, then NR can be useful.


drhankz


When I said "insignificant", it was for Joe-6-pack out there.







AVSers are really picky and more concerned with PQ, so alot of us are bothered by that phenomena, like you and me.


And yes I got my new Pio yesterday, but I'm not home for 4 days, so I will not be able to play with it until wednesday.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz
> 
> 
> When I said "insignificant", it was for Joe-6-pack out there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AVSers are really picky and more concerned with PQ, so alot of us are bothered by that phenomena, like you and me.
> 
> 
> And yes I got my new Pio yesterday, but I'm not home for 4 days, so I will not be able to play with it until wednesday.



Thanks for the Complement Alain.


Oh Dear 4 DAYS? The suspense must be killing you.


I'm very happy I WAITED for the Pioneer!


See you in Las Vegas [GRIN]! I'm leaving Friday!


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I haven't looked into that. What do you need the AVM-50 to do to support this? (2:35 Constant Height Screen)
> 
> --Bob



Here is a link to the best place on this forum that explains it, with many links to other good places. I am planning to do this as well.

2:35 Constant Height FAQ's 


Simply put, if your DVD player or your projector will not do the "vertical stretch" or zoom (or whatever your device calls it), then you need a scaler to do it for you.


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The noise reduction I'm talking about is typical analog TV broadcast noise. See the HQV test disc for more info. The Realta stuff is the champ at reducing this right now. The D2's Gennum stuff tackles it about half as well.
> 
> 
> If your TV provider is treating you to a lot of compression noise (think DirecTV) the Mosquito would be well worth looking into. It fills a very special niche.
> 
> 
> You won't have any de-interlacing artifacts to worry about if you let the D2 do all your de-interlacing.
> 
> --Bob



Good guess. Yes I have Direct TV. Although at least they are all digital. Where I live Comcast cable is still mostly analog, although they are in the process of converting. Cable also has compression artifacts.


D* is slowly converting to MPEG 4 compression. I don't know if this will increase or decrease the compression artifacts. I watch as many programs as I can OTA, which greatly reduces the compression artifacts.


I was hoping the D2 would help to eliminate the compression artifacts



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DOBE.
> 
> 
> You can always buy the Algolith Flea if you want powerful noise reduction. But with DVDs, HD-DVDs and Blu-rays, you don't want to use NR. But with satellite or cable, then NR can be useful.



Yeah the Flea is cute. it looks like a little R2D2.


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I were to purchase a new display for use with my AVM50, what do you folks recommend? I am looking for 55" to 60" panel or rear projection capable of 1080p. I've been considering Panasonics plasma or Sony's SXRD.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



The choice for me was always between the 70" SXRD and the 65" Panasonic plasma. I decided to go with the Pannny because I'm sensitive to the Silk Screen Effect (SSE) and the picture still looks projected and a little soft (by comparison) ... although much less than with RPTVs of the past. I like the close to virtual reality look of a plasma, but that's me.


I think these guys will probably tell you that the AVM50/D2 will work equally well with either display.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is a link to the best place on this forum that explains it, with many links to other good places. I am planning to do this as well.
> 
> 2:35 Constant Height FAQ's
> 
> 
> Simply put, if your DVD player or your projector will not do the "vertical stretch" or zoom (or whatever your device calls it), then you need a scaler to do it for you.



OK, well I'm not really sure I have a handle on this yet, but I *THINK* what you want to do here can be handled with the "Crop Input" function in the Anthem's Video Source Adjust menu.


This function has two built-in styles of cropping, but also provides for the user to enter a completely custom cropping. I believe if you simply crop the content to 2.35:1 the scaler will do the rest. However you may also need to manually set the horizontal and vertical sizing using the "No Scale" function of the "Scale Output" function in that same menu.


This is all just a guess. Someone who actually has such a setup is going to have to dig into this for us.


I do note, however, that the referenced links state that all Gennum based processors can do this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The choice for me was always between the 70" SXRD and the 65" Panasonic plasma. I decided to go with the Pannny because I'm sensitive to the Silk Screen Effect (SSE) and the picture still looks projected and a little soft (by comparison) ... although much less than with RPTVs of the past. I like the close to virtual reality look of a plasma, but that's me.
> 
> 
> I think these guys will probably tell you that the AVM50/D2 will work equally well with either display.



Sure, it will work fine with either display.


Personally I prefer flat panels. I hate worrying about whether my projection geometry is still perfect just because I've moved the cabinet.


Right now I'm most intrigued by the Pioneer Elite FHD-1, but that's smaller than requested. However I'm not actually in the market for a new display at the moment so I really haven't dug into this stuff that much.


I suspect my next display will be a flat panel with a native resolution of 1920x1080p, a refresh rate of 120Hz, and the ability to accept /24Hz, /48Hz, and /60Hz at that resolution over HDMI V1.1 (or higher but still compatible with V1.1) and "do the right thing" with it using at least 12 bit internal processsing and with exceptional black levels. If you find one, let me know. (grin!)


Meanwhile I also want an HD-DVD or Blue Ray player that's as good as the Oppo 970 for legacy formats. And world peace. And a pony....

--Bob


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ....I suspect my next display will be a flat panel with a native resolution of 1920x1080p, a refresh rate of 120Hz, and the ability to accept /24Hz, /48Hz, and /60Hz at that resolution over HDMI V1.1 (or higher but still compatible with V1.1) and "do the right thing" with it using at least 12 bit internal processsing and with exceptional black levels. If you find one, let me know. (grin!)
> 
> 
> Meanwhile I also want an HD-DVD or Blue Ray player that's as good as the Oppo 970 for legacy formats. And world peace. And a pony....
> 
> --Bob



If I were a betting man, I would put my money on you getting the pony first.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DOBE.
> 
> 
> You can always buy the Algolith Flea if you want powerful noise reduction. But with DVDs, HD-DVDs and Blu-rays, you don't want to use NR. But with satellite or cable, then NR can be useful.



Understand that there is no free lunch with any of this noise reduction stuff. The damage has already been done to the image and all you can do is try to conceal it.


My current cable provider produces a surprisingly clean digital signal. Way better than DirecTV with their infamous "HD Lite" and their silly over-compression of SD channels. But you will still get SD content at times where the colors are washed out or the black levels are wrong. This is not so much noise as just mishandling and "generation loss" from too many copying stages. I don't try to fiddle with stuff to conceal that. If I like the program, I ignore it. Otherwise I change the channel.


I calibrate my setup for high quality content. That means that artifacts in poor quality content are actually more noticeable. So I curse TNT or whoever is broadcasting this crap and let the anticipation build for when I switch to a channel that takes more care.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> D* is slowly converting to MPEG 4 compression. I don't know if this will increase or decrease the compression artifacts. I watch as many programs as I can OTA, which greatly reduces the compression artifacts. .



DirecTV's problem is lack of satellite capacity. The push to provide local station rebroadcast into local markets -- particularly HD locals -- to compete with cable really clobbered them. They can't launch the satellites fast enough.


So they "bit starve" HD (you don't really get 1080i or 720p into your receiver -- it's just scaled up to that by the crappy scaler in the satellite box before it's sent out towards your TV) and they "over compress" SD. When football season is on, and they have to free up even more HD capacity for sports package broadcasts, they even over compress HD. And whenever any satellite develops a problem, they shuffle things around and over compress even more. The worst DirecTV signals are really godawful.


But there's nothing fundamentally wrong with the technology. The BEST DirecTV signals are *PERFECT*. They really can send off air quality HD if they want to and the receivers all know to do the right thing with it. Remember that off air HD is also MPEG compressed. It's just that these days DirecTV never lets the signal get that good.


So they are trying to launch more satellites, and they are trying to switch from MPEG2 compression to MPEG4 compression. MPEG4 compression is a more clever algorithm that is capable of producing the same quality in a signal that consumes less bandwidth. With MPEG4 they can fit more stuff OR better quality into their limited satellites. Unfortunately the demand for more local channels will exceed their ability to launch new satellites for some time EVEN WITH MPEG4. So they are still going to be limited in the number of channels they can carry and the quality with which they can carry them.


As they launch more satellites, the combo of more satellite capacity and the extra efficiency of MPEG4 compression should result in more channels at higher quality. But the emphasis will be on more channels (channels you won't be able to receive) until they cover ALL the local markets with local into local service. So if your local market is already served this way, you are not likely to see any significant improvement in DirecTV channel-count or quality for a couple more years.


I suggest you lean on Comcast to improve their service faster.

--Bob


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ....So they "bit starve" HD (you don't really get 1080i or 720p into your receiver -- it's just scaled up to that by the crappy scaler in the satellite box before it's sent out towards your TV) and they "over compress" SD....
> 
> 
> But there's nothing fundamentally wrong with the technology. The BEST DirecTV signals are *PERFECT*. They really can send off air quality HD if they want to and the receivers all know to do the right thing with it. Remember that off air HD is also MPEG compressed. It's just that these days DirecTV never lets the signal get that good....
> 
> 
> As they launch more satellites, the combo of more satellite capacity and the extra efficiency of MPEG4 compression should result in more channels at higher quality. But the emphasis will be on more channels (channels you won't be able to receive) until they cover ALL the local markets with local into local service. So if your local market is already served this way, you are not likely to see any significant improvement in DirecTV channel-count or quality for a couple more years.
> 
> 
> I suggest you lean on Comcast to improve their service faster.
> 
> --Bob



At the moment, I don't use D*'s STB. I have a Sony HD 300 STB ($800 when purcahsed) paired with the 50" Fujitsu. The HD and SD quality is fairly good.


I'm hoping that sending all channels at native resolution out of the HD300 and into the D2 will improve the PQ even more. I'm sure it won't make it worse.


My current plan is buy the HR20, which is D*'s. I hope it's not "crappy". I was going to buy the S3 TIVO, but Comcast in Sacramento (also known as Comcrap on the boards) is way behind the curve.


As I said, it's still mostly SD and they only offer about 5 channels in HD, besides the premiums.


I'm thinking that although the $800 S3 Tivo probably has a better scaler, if I'm sending a native signal into the D2, the extra money put into the S3 scaler/processor (Vs the HR20) will be wasted. No?


My understanding is cable has its own terrestrial limited bandwidth problems. Also D* claims that they will be offering 20 new HD (MPEG4) channels by this time next year. Do I believe them?







If they're offered will they be HD lite?










All I know is that with a larger display 65" Vs 50", I will see the difference for better or worse. That's one of the reasons for the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> At the moment, I don't use D*'s STB. I have a Sony HD 300 STB ($800 when purcahsed) paired with the 50" Fujitsu. The HD and SD quality is fairly good.
> 
> 
> I'm hoping that sending all channels at native resolution out of the HD300 and into the D2 will improve the PQ even more. I'm sure it won't make it worse.
> 
> 
> My current plan is buy the HR20, which is D*'s. I hope it's not "crappy". I was going to buy the S3 TIVO, but Comcast in Sacramento (also known as Comcrap on the boards) is way behind the curve.
> 
> 
> As I said, it's still mostly SD and they only offer about 5 channels in HD, besides the premiums.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking that although the $800 S3 Tivo probably has a better scaler, if I'm sending a native signal into the D2, the extra money put into the S3 scaler/processor (Vs the HR20) will be wasted. No?
> 
> 
> My understanding is cable has its own terrestrial limited bandwidth problems. Also D* claims that they will be offering 20 new HD (MPEG4) channels by this time next year. Do I believe them?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If they're offered will they be HD lite?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I know is that with a larger display 65" Vs 50", I will see the difference for better or worse. That's one of the reasons for the D2.



OK a lot of stuff here. First of all I doubt you'll get 20 new national HD feeds from DirecTV because there aren't that many. Some will be premium channels. Some channels will be local rebroadcast. Some will be sports packagaes. Some will be the same channel in East and West coast versions and you'll only be allowed to actually watch one or the other. DirecTV uses "new math" in counting its channels. Mind you the cable guys do the same thing. My cable service offers the same HD channel on 2 different channel numbers and counts it as two channels.


Second, they will most likely either be HD-lite or delayed in showing up. DirecTV still has to launch some more birds. What's happening right now is that they are pushing MPEG4 fast, and that is freeing up some capacity on the existing birds.


Third you *CAN'T* feed a native HD-lite signal to the D2 because the DirecTV receiver doesn't make it available to you. So if a given, bit-starved, 1080i HD-lite channel actually comes in to your receiver at 1280x960i equivalent bandwidth, the satellite receiver will "scale" that up to 1920x1080i (i.e., reconstitute the "original" signal) before you can get your hands on it. So the quality of that proccess in the receiver becomes an issue. Although this is not precisely what happens with bit-starved signals, the best way to think of it is that the receiver de-interlaces, scales and re-interlaces. Yuck.


Now that said, the H20 is your best bet for DirecTV (as I understand it). The S3 plus a simpler satellite receiver will not gain you anything. The simpler receiver will still have to handle the HD-lite stuff before the S3 can get anything.


Set the H20 to "native" resolution output. This will be a big win for SD because you will get a true 480i signal (they don't bit starve SD since there aint enough bits to starve) and the D2's de-interlacing and scaling will take it from there. For HD you will get the HD-lite scaled up to the "original" 720p or 1080i by the H20 -- there's no way around that -- and the D2 will take it from there. This will be a win vs. setting the H20 to always send out either fixed 720p or 1080i no matter what you are watching.


Now for SD you will still see macro-blocking due to the over-compression DirecTV foists on you. This is not equally bad on all channels -- DirecTV tries to pick its enemies. It is worst on channels with lots of commercials and on local SD stations rebroadcast by DirecTV to you. You will also see it on animation channels due to large blocks of solid color that just show it up more. Some SD channels actually come through quite well in this regard. Unfortunately it does vary as D* needs to shuffle things around from time to time. The Friday and Saturday before football Sundays will see more damaged SD for example as that's when they re-jigger the transponders to carry the various football HD feeds.


For HD you will primarily see artifacts in areas of rapid motion. This is a combination of bit-starving and then re-scaling in the receiver and also some over-compression. Again this varies between channels and from time to time. Mark Cuban at HD-NET has a running battle with D* about what they do to his signal.


Now I don't want to make this sound too grim. You will see BETTER stuff through the D2 than you are getting now. SD will gain a lot. Although on channels with bad over compression that may just make the compression artifacts more noticeable, the good SD channels will definitely show improvement. In addition, the color space issues between SD and HD will be taken care of automatically by the D2. HD will be improved due to feeding both 720p and 1080i to the D2. The D2 will also enable you to better calibrate the levels for your HD feed. The result CAN BE very very good. But two days later you may find the same channel has been given the D* "touch". Record the same HD program on the same HD channel on different days on your H20 and you may very well see different quality when you compare them. And that's entirely due to what D* does to the signal since the H20 is merely recording the exact bitstream coming down from the bird.


-----------------------------------------------------------------


Cable providers that are still using mixed analog and digital systems often over-compress the digital channels to cram more digital channels into limited bandwidth.


Cable providers that have finally managed to eliminate their analog stuff don't have that problem (more or less) and the resulting digital signals can be excellent. For Comcast that means when they start offering the Motorola 3412 HD-DVR instead of the 6412 HD-DVR. The newer 3412 is digital-only while the 6412 is mixed analog and digital.


Have you considered moving? (grin!)


==============================================


I should add that even cable companies that over-compress the bulk of their digital SD channels typically have very good HD channels since that's their main point of competition.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Incidentally pretty jazzed by the PS3 as a Blu-Ray player, and working out the IR remote programming now, ie using a PS2 IR receiver/remote off a USB->PS2 adapter. I was thinking of going the Pio Blu-Ray route and could dump the 59AVi in the process to free up an HDMI port, but for about a third of the cost (595 vs 1500 +tax and/or shipping) and the fact that I like my old 59 and can keep it set up consistently for SD & most music, I'll slum it with the PS3



I hate quoting my own verboseness, but here's a helpful link for folks trying to get a PS3 better integrated into your setup. The picture is simply stunning 1080p.

Remote Central PS3 Instruction 


Now PLEASE Anthem add in the PCM 7.1 capability.


----------



## rudolpht

OK, I have been experiencing a great deal of audio glitches on the Anthem lately in switching between sources that use HDMI audio. It effectively dies (silences requiring sometimes at least one and sometimes two power cycles and minutes of family frustration.


Is there anything that can be done to "initialize" a PCM stream between devices????


Bob? Anyone?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

rudolpht,

I can't recall anyone else reporting an HDMI audio problem like this here. Is this new? What audio sources are you switching between? Are you saying you get good HDMI video but the audio fails? Is this just upon switching inputs or does it happen in the middle of watching something?

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> rudolpht,
> 
> I can't recall anyone else reporting an HDMI audio problem like this here. Is this new? What audio sources are you switching between? Are you saying you get good HDMI video but the audio fails? Is this just upon switching inputs or does it happen in the middle of watching something?
> 
> --Bob



Video typically remains fine, just the audio goes away. Switching between PS3, HD Tivo, and/or HD Moto DVR loses HDMI audio. Sometimes even within a device (but it's probably me not noticing the transition, from HD Tivo menu to live video. (The only resolution change is typically 720p Tivo menus to or from 1080i or 480i video, but it happens going from 1080i to 1080i also).


Thanks & HNY,

Tim


----------



## agrsiv95

I have just purchased a D2 and was wondering if anyone has any pointers since I do not have enough time to read all 108 pagesin this thread. I must say that it is an amazing product and cannot see my system without it. I have a benq W10000, an Oppo 970hd and a SA8300HDdvr.


Thanks,


Jeremy


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ....you *CAN'T* feed a native HD-lite signal to the D2 because the DirecTV receiver doesn't make it available to you. So if a given, bit-starved, 1080i HD-lite channel actually comes in to your receiver at 1280x960i equivalent bandwidth, the satellite receiver will "scale" that up to 1920x1080i (i.e., reconstitute the "original" signal) before you can get your hands on it. So the quality of that proccess in the receiver becomes an issue. Although this is not precisely what happens with bit-starved signals, the best way to think of it is that the receiver de-interlaces, scales and re-interlaces. Yuck.



Hey Bob: If I thought I could consistently ... or more often than with D* ... receive 1920 X 1080i or 1280 X 720P from Comcast, I would switch tomorrow. In my area I've heard more negative comments about Comcast than D*. But mostly about analog SD and not enough HD content. So what to do?


I hadn't thought about the D* receiver being required to de-interlace and scale the HD-lite before it feeds it to the D2. Bummer!


I was hoping there was some way to pass the signal, untouched, to the *D2* no matter what resolution the D* receiver encounters. This messes up my intention of how the whole process ... with the D2 to the rescue ... will work with the STB or the DVR and D* or Comcast for that matter. I guessing Comcast has HD-lite also.


You're not saying that Comcast consitently sends out full 1920 X 1080i or 1280 X 720P are you? I 'm not sure how to verify what my Comcast does with the HD resolutions?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now that said, the H20 is your best bet for DirecTV (as I understand it). The S3 plus a simpler satellite receiver will not gain you anything. The simpler receiver will still have to handle the HD-lite stuff before the S3 can get anything.



The S3 TIVO ("The world's first THX-certified, dual CableCARD DVR") only works with cable and OTA. The H20 is only a D* receiver only. The HR20 is a D* DVR. At $800 and being THX certified, I'm willing to bet the S3 has a better de-interlacer and scaler than the HR20. But does that really help the situation ... if HD lite is invloved?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Set the H20 to "native" resolution output. This will be a big win for SD because you will get a true 480i signal (they don't bit starve SD since there aint enough bits to starve) and the D2's de-interlacing and scaling will take it from there. For HD you will get the HD-lite scaled up to the "original" 720p or 1080i by the H20 -- there's no way around that -- and the D2 will take it from there. This will be a win vs. setting the H20 to always send out either fixed 720p or 1080i no matter what you are watching.



It sounds like the same situation would be needed if I switched to cable, except that the D3 should have a better deinter/scaler and perhaps Comcast HD will be less compressed than D*. Maybe no HD-lite. Our Comcast is also alledgedly adding HD channels in the near future (5-7 channels) but with a bastardized (from the days when AT&T screwed up everything) 750 MHz system, I have no confidence in them.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now for SD you will still see macro-blocking due to the over-compression DirecTV foists on you. This is not equally bad on all channels -- DirecTV tries to pick its enemies. It is worst on channels with lots of commercials and on local SD stations rebroadcast by DirecTV to you. You will also see it on animation channels due to large blocks of solid color that just show it up more....
> 
> 
> For HD you will primarily see artifacts in areas of rapid motion. This is a combination of bit-starving and then re-scaling in the receiver and also some over-compression. Again this varies between channels and from time to time. Mark Cuban at HD-NET has a running battle with D* about what they do to his signal.



I only watch local channels OTA which is significantly superior to D* in PQ and SQ. HD-NET consistently has the best PQ. I intensely dislike artifacts, especially on bigger screens.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob PariseauNow I don't want to make this sound too grim. You will see BETTER stuff through the D2 than you are getting now. SD will gain a lot. Although on channels with bad over compression that may just make the compression artifacts more noticeable, the good SD channels will definitely show improvement. In addition, the color space issues between SD and HD will be taken care of automatically by the D2. HD will be improved due to feeding both 720p and 1080i to the D2. The D2 will also enable you to better calibrate the levels for your HD feed. The result CAN BE very very good. But two days later you may find the same channel has been given the D* "touch". Record the same HD program on the same HD channel on different days on your H20 and you may very well see different quality when you compare them. And that's entirely due to what D* does to the signal since the H20 is merely recording the exact bitstream coming down from the bird.
> 
> 
> Cable providers that are still using mixed analog and digital systems often over-compress the digital channels to cram more digital channels into limited bandwidth.
> 
> 
> Cable providers that have finally managed to eliminate their analog stuff don't have that problem (more or less) and the resulting digital signals can be excellent. For Comcast that means when they start offering the Motorola 3412 HD-DVR instead of the 6412 HD-DVR. The newer 3412 is digital-only while the 6412 is mixed analog and digital.[/QUOTE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> I should add that even cable companies that over-compress the bulk of their digital SD channels typically have very good HD channels since that's their main point of competition.--Bob



In my area Comcast is in the process of a full analog to digital conversion. It should be complete by Spring. The roll-out will take longer. However, Comcast will continue to use the old MPEG-2 rather than the newer MPEG-4 compression standard. This contributes to their tight bandwidth limitations. Apparently their next priority is to free up bandwidth for local phone service ... to compete with SureWest.







Generally, with the exception of the members of this forum, people don't care much about PQ. Somtimes I feel like giving up the quest for greater PQ.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Video typically remains fine, just the audio goes away. Switching between PS3, HD Tivo, and/or HD Moto DVR loses HDMI audio. Sometimes even within a device (but it's probably me not noticing the transition, from HD Tivo menu to live video. (The only resolution change is typically 720p Tivo menus to or from 1080i or 480i video, but it happens going from 1080i to 1080i also).
> 
> 
> Thanks & HNY,
> 
> Tim



Very odd. I think we would have heard more complaints if this was common.


I suspect you are losing the SECOND handshake that happens when the HDMI connection needs to re-establish itself, as for example after a resolution change. The first covers video and HDCP, and the second covers audio. If you are hearing a delay of a second or two before audio starts up AFTER video starts up when changing between SD and HD channels on the Tivo for example, then that's the second handshake.


But except for that annoying delay, I've not heard of the audio actually failing to start while video just plays normally. Again, I would think we'd have had a ton of complaints on this.


Have you tried simply switching away from the offending source and back again?


Have you upgraded your HDMI cables already?


By the way, if you are seeing such a delay when changing channels on the Tivo (for example), my recommendation would be that you switch to optical audio. Optical will give you the same quality as HDMI for audio from that style of device and you won't have that extra delay before audio starts up.


Of course that's no help for the PS3.


Another possibility is to turn off the Auto Digital option in the Anthem's Setup / Source Select. It is, I suppose, possible that the Anthem is getting confused as to whether or not there actually is any incoming digital audio, and thus it is mistakenly switching to the unused analog audio jacks.


But of course it is not supposed to make that mistake. You may need to work this one with Anthem directly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have just purchased a D2 and was wondering if anyone has any pointers since I do not have enough time to read all 108 pagesin this thread. I must say that it is an amazing product and cannot see my system without it. I have a benq W10000, an Oppo 970hd and a SA8300HDdvr.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Jeremy,

Well I'm afraid the best pointer is to read all 108 pages. (grin!)


Actually I'd suggest you read the first post in the thread and then start reading the rest of the thread from back to front. That will skip over at lot of the initial confusion in the thread as well as info that's old due to software updates.


It would be nice if Levesque or someone collected links to the typical newbie-focused suggestion posts embedded in this opus and copied them into the first thread for folks just starting out, but that hasn't happened yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dobe,

I haven't heard of anyone except DirecTV and possibly Dish doing "HD-Lite". The reason is very simple. The stuff coming off the cable has to work with a variety of cable-ready receivers that the cable providers don't control -- cable cards in the S3 for example, or in people's TVs.


DirecTV can do it because THEY control the receivers. And so they can put in the special processing stage to re-constitute HD-Lite back into what people are led to believe is real HD. The original DirecTV receivers had a secret key combination you could press to get it to display what was actually coming in on each channel at the moment as opposed to the "nominal" 720p or 1080i. Pretty soon, DirecTV realized folks were posting those results on forums like this and thus DirecTV was getting the horse laugh. So they "upgraded" the software to remove that feature. Now folks figure out the same thing by hacking into the HD-DVRs to see how much disk space is being used to record a given channel over a given period of time. They can run but they can't hide.


So really the only thing you have to fear from HD over cable is that they've boosted the compression -- or that the signal is so weak that your cable receiver can't keep a good lock on it. Right now that doesn't seem to be the case for most cable providers. Mind you, the signal they get from the original source station might ALREADY be damaged or over-compressed. Many local stations are still trying to figure this stuff out. They can't even re-broadcast network feeds properly some times. But the cable version usually matches the off air version -- for HD channels.


It's all the OTHER channels that the cable guys compress the heck out of if they are having bandwidth problems. I've seen some digital SD channels over cable that are utter crap -- way worse than the worst I've ever seen from DirecTV.


-------------------------------------------------


From all accounts the S3 does a very nice job of both video and audio. Yes I suspect it is likely better than the H20.

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, I have been experiencing a great deal of audio glitches on the Anthem lately in switching between sources that use HDMI audio. It effectively dies (silences requiring sometimes at least one and sometimes two power cycles and minutes of family frustration.
> 
> 
> Is there anything that can be done to "initialize" a PCM stream between devices????
> 
> 
> Bob? Anyone?



I too have the same problem. However, it only happens with my Tivo S3. When the S3's HDMI acts up, I *always* lose audio and sometime lose both audio and video to a blue screen. I could simply be changing channels and lose the handshake.


I always get a short, high pitched "chirp" when changing channels.

Very annoying.


I have yet to try Bob's idea, and buy another cable, but will. I currently use a 6' Monoprice cable. All my other HDMI connected devices are connected with Monoprice cables, but the S3 is the only one causing a headache.


Mark


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have just purchased a D2 and was wondering if anyone has any pointers since I do not have enough time to read all 108 pagesin this thread. I must say that it is an amazing product and cannot see my system without it. I have a benq W10000, an Oppo 970hd and a SA8300HDdvr.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Well, within 108 pages there are *tons* of valuable pointers. I would echo Bob's point to just read the first page as background, and then start skimming backward looking for things that interest you. Whatever question you have has probably been asked and answered, maybe multiple times.


Since you have an Oppo 970, the best way to set it up is 480i out to the Anthem, using HDMI for both video and audio. This uses the Oppo as just a transport with NO processing (turn off EVERYTHING in the Oppo). That way the Anthem does all processing (which is the reason we all bought it, right?).


I have no ideas on your other equipment. The best quality is when you can send out 1080p from the D2, but I don't know if your display can take that. You might be limited to 720p (which can be incredible as well).


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's all the OTHER channels that the cable guys compress the heck out of if they are having bandwidth problems. I've seen some digital SD channels over cable that are utter crap -- way worse than the worst I've ever seen from DirecTV.--Bob



So sending *480i via HDMI from the OPPO 970HD to the D2* gives great results because the 480i signal is in a purer state as it leaves the OPPO.


Sending an overcompressed (bit starved) *480i signal from a D* or cable receiver via HDMI to the D2* is less likely to produce great results because the original source has been damaged by over-compression (bandwidth limitations) introduced by the satellite or cable company?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So sending *480i via HDMI from the OPPO 970HD to the D2* gives great results because the 480i signal is in a purer state as it leaves the OPPO.
> 
> 
> Sending an overcompressed (bit starved) *480i signal from a D* or cable receiver via HDMI to the D2* is less likely to produce great results because the original source has been damaged by over-compression (bandwidth limitations) introduced by the satellite or cable company?



Precisely.


Here's another point to consider that may help set this in your mind. Not all DVD discs are created equal. Some discs contain movies that have ALSO been over-compressed! Once again, if you play a DVD with a crappy transfer there's no way the Anthem or any other system can undo the damage that's already been done.


Now there are lots of ways a studio can screw up a transfer of film to DVD, but most of those are simply mistakes. [By the way, there's a whole forum here dedicated to people who like to talk about the quality of particular DVDs. You can find a list of "reference quality" DVDs there -- DVDs with exceptionally good transfers.]


However some such problems simply arise from confusion in the studios about their target market. For example, should colors and black levels be set on the DVD disc assuming the DVD will be played on the lowest, and far too common, denominator TV in the typical household which hasn't a clue how to set it up, or should the levels be set for the knowledgeable few who have good TV setups and know how to calibrate them? What's the poor marketing guy to recommend? Yup. And that's one of the reasons that the first release "full screen" disc versions of hot new flicks are often so bad.


Unfortunately, over-compression of the DVD transfer is often done DELIBERATELY simply in an effort to free up space on the disc -- to cram both widescreen and full screen versions of the movie onto the same disc, or to include "extras", or simply to keep the movie from lapping over onto an additonal disc. Studios know full well that buyers assume the release with the most "extras" on it *MUST* be the best release of any given movie.


Here's a post I made quite some time ago on this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post4966784 


There are additional details following that post.


So the bottom line is that you can't undo damage that's already been done. All you can do is keep from doing *MORE* damage. And letting a scaling DVD player do de-interlacing or scaling usually introduces new damage. As does letting scaling happen multiple times before your screen lights up. As does letting the typical 1080p TV do the de-interlacing of 1080i HDTV into 1080p. As does letting SDTV-style color space encoding be played using HDTV-style color space math. Etc., etc. And these are precisely the sorts of things the Anthem DOES RIGHT for you.

--Bob


----------



## agrsiv95

Thanks for the quick responses. I will set a side some time at night to start reading through all of this. So audio is good through HDMI with the D2? I have been told to only use it for video and run coaxial for sound.


Jeremy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick responses. I will set a side some time at night to start reading through all of this. So audio is good through HDMI with the D2? I have been told to only use it for video and run coaxial for sound.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



My recommendation would be to use optical or coax digital audio connections for audio for everything EXCEPT FOR HD-DVD or Blue Ray players. For those, you will definitely want to send the multi-channel, high bandwidth PCM audio over HDMI.


For the other devices, optical or coax will produce IDENTICAL quality to HDMI audio, but is somewhat less troublesome.


[I should add that for some SACD or DVD-Audio players you will need to use multi-channel analog audio connections since you can't get the full bandwidth over optical or coax, and they don't support that audio over HDMI.]


-------------------------------------------------------------------


For video setup, here's a link to my post earlier in this thread where I tried to collect the wisdom of the ages all in one place:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9277613 


Hope this helps!

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio

Can you "video select" with an AVM-50. In other words, can I listed to a CD, or another source (media server) while having a football game on processing through the AVM-50?


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you "video select" with an AVM-50. In other words, can I listed to a CD, or another source (media server) while having a football game on processing through the AVM-50?



Yes, "simulcast" is what you are referring to. Simulcast is available with all paths, with an exception to HDMI. You can't use HDMI audio from another source while watching video.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you "video select" with an AVM-50. In other words, can I listed to a CD, or another source (media server) while having a football game on processing through the AVM-50?



You can mix audio from any non-HDMI source with video from any source. You can do this either by setting up an "input" for just such viewing, or by using the Simulcast function via the Anthem remote to mix your already existing inputs -- see the Anthem manual for details on Simulcast.


For example, I have my "CD" input set to produce audio from the player and video from my cable TV box since I don't need to see on screen menus from the player. I have coax digital audio setup from the CD player and HDMI video from the cable box. Then I can listen to CDs either with the display on or off according to whether I also want to watch something.


You can not mix audio coming in on any HDMI cable with any other video except the video also coming in on that same HDMI cable.

--Bob


----------



## BillW




yatchaks said:


> I too have the same problem. However, it only happens with my Tivo S3. When the S3's HDMI acts up, I *always* lose audio and sometime lose both audio and video to a blue screen. I could simply be changing channels and lose the handshake.
> 
> 
> How well does the Tivo S3 work (when working). I've been thinking about getting one for it's native rate capability (I assume that's what you are using), and increased storage capacity. I would probably just use component and digital audio out.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How well does the Tivo S3 work (when working). I've been thinking about getting one for it's native rate capability (I assume that's what you are using), and increased storage capacity. I would probably just use component and digital audio out.



Bill,


I am using the native rate, and it works extremely well.


Previously, I had a Moto 6412 (provided by Comcast). The Moto software was very glitchy and a constant headache.


IMHO, Tivo software is second to none. There is noticable improvement over the Moto 6412 with 1080i/720p material, and an even bigger improvement with 480i.


No regrets here, I love it.


Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bill,
> 
> 
> I am using the native rate, and it works extremely well.
> 
> 
> Previously, I had a Moto 6412 (provided by Comcast). The Moto software was very glitchy and a constant headache.
> 
> 
> IMHO, Tivo software is second to none. There is noticable improvement over the Moto 6412 with 1080i/720p material, and an even bigger improvement with 480i.
> 
> 
> No regrets here, I love it.
> 
> 
> Mark



Mark,

Were you using DVI from the 6412 and HDMI from the S3? The conversion from YCbCr to RGB in the 6412 for DVI probably has problems -- clipping blacks and whites for example as well as color space problems.


And if you were using Component out the analog video output stage of the Motorola aint great either.


Motorola has nothing to be proud of in its cable boxes and the software issued by the cable providers makes it worse.


The S3 is certainly better engineered hardware, and the software is pretty spiffy.


-------------------------------------------------------


Bill,

Component video and optical audio from the S3 should work very well with the D2. We have a number of people here using the S3.


The HDMI audio dropout problem just brought up needs to be sorted out, however.

--Bob


----------



## KIDSMD1

I'm a newbie (with a big grin) that has read all 109 pages of this great thread and want to give thanks to all of you, with special emphasis to Bob, Levesque, and Drhankz. My D2 (from Audigon) arrived Friday with ver1.0 and with fear I upgraded to ver1.11 but it went without a hitch and I'm living with a gorgeous 1080i picture and awesome audio as a result of all that I learned from this thread.


I am using a 9m Better Cables HDMI cable to a Hitachi SX5600 PJ and having no problems geting 1080i out HDMI(1m BC) from my SA 8300HD DVR; however my PS3 will only output via component cable, but still a gorgeous pic. I'm in visual/audio bliss but still awaitng my pre-ordered XA2 and JVC-RS1. I will wait until then to figure out my HDMI connection problem with the PS3. Good Luck to all!!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Very odd. I think we would have heard more complaints if this was common.
> 
> 
> I suspect you are losing the SECOND handshake that happens when the HDMI connection needs to re-establish itself, as for example after a resolution change. The first covers video and HDCP, and the second covers audio. If you are hearing a delay of a second or two before audio starts up AFTER video starts up when changing between SD and HD channels on the Tivo for example, then that's the second handshake.



Yes I get that, and then audio will pop on. Slightly annoying but easy to live with. My problem is the audio not popping back on.



> Quote:
> But except for that annoying delay, I've not heard of the audio actually failing to start while video just plays normally. Again, I would think we'd have had a ton of complaints on this.



This has only started happening to me when using the second audio zone in my setup, which also makes it additionally complicated to get the unit to fully shut down to get the audio back, as the pre-amp will not power down if Zone 2 is up, even though I only listen to audio from zone 1.



> Quote:
> Have you tried simply switching away from the offending source and back again?



Yes. It works about 1 out of 4 times.



> Quote:
> Have you upgraded your HDMI cables already?



I think I was the one that started the better HDMI cable trend in recommending what William Phelps recommended to me, about 75 pages of posts ago. Always started with the best.



> Quote:
> By the way, if you are seeing such a delay when changing channels on the Tivo (for example), my recommendation would be that you switch to optical audio.



I don't see that. The problem with the Anthem is too few optical hookups and too many components that use them. It is a good point that I should only need the PCM through HDMI for HD DVD & Blu-Ray where the codecs are use there.


> Quote:
> Optical will give you the same quality as HDMI for audio from that style of device and you won't have that extra delay before audio starts up.
> 
> 
> Of course that's no help for the PS3.
> 
> 
> Another possibility is to turn off the Auto Digital option in the Anthem's Setup / Source Select. It is, I suppose, possible that the Anthem is getting confused as to whether or not there actually is any incoming digital audio, and thus it is mistakenly switching to the unused analog audio jacks.



This is already set, unfortunately.



> Quote:
> But of course it is not supposed to make that mistake. You may need to work this one with Anthem directly.
> 
> --Bob



Doing the bitstream audio to the tivo is a good start. THANKS


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KIDSMD1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm a newbie (with a big grin) that has read all 109 pages of this great thread and want to give thanks to all of you, with special emphasis to Bob, Levesque, and Drhankz. My D2 (from Audigon) arrived Friday with ver1.0 and with fear I upgraded to ver1.11 but it went without a hitch and I'm living with a gorgeous 1080i picture and awesome audio as a result of all that I learned from this thread.
> 
> 
> I am using a 9m Better Cables HDMI cable to a Hitachi SX5600 PJ and having no problems geting 1080i out HDMI(1m BC) from my SA 8300HD DVR; however my PS3 will only output via component cable, but still a gorgeous pic. I'm in visual/audio bliss but still awaitng my pre-ordered XA2 and JVC-RS1. I will wait until then to figure out my HDMI connection problem with the PS3. Good Luck to all!!



Welcome to the HAPPY







D2 Club and a HAPPY NEW YEAR!


----------



## sartorius33

I just got my D2 and am of course still in the very beginnings of setting everything up (so many options). DVD from an Arcam DV79 and Sat work fine via HDMI. However, when I call up the OSD, after a short while it flickers and then disappears in all inputs and just the blue overlay (or the black, the color does not matter) appears. The status display always works. The D2 is hooked up to a Fujitsu 42 inch panel with HDMI at a 1080i/60 scaler output and the picture is really good. I tried adjusting the D2 video settings but that does not bring back the OSD. Also I have a Replay DVR - still treasured for its Commercial Advance - which also only shows the blue screen. If I wait a few hours the OSD might come back for a while. My apologies if this issue has already been addressed in this threat. Thank you very much for any help on this.


----------



## bluemark81

Has anybody come up with a fix for the 1080i input problems many are having or are we all still waiting on Anthem? I sent Nick an e-mail with the problem a few days b4 Christmas, but he was on vacation and I haven't heard anything back from him yet.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anybody come up with a fix for the 1080i input problems many are having or are we all still waiting on Anthem? I sent Nick an e-mail with the problem a few days b4 Christmas, but he was on vacation and I haven't heard anything back from him yet.



The last word we had here, attributed to Nick last week, was that the engineer(s) they needed to fix the problem wouldn't be back at work until tomorrow, Jan 2.


There have been a couple folks here who reported things they did to make the problem go away, but noone else with the problem was able to make that work for them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sartorius33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my D2 and am of course still in the very beginnings of setting everything up (so many options). DVD from an Arcam DV79 and Sat work fine via HDMI. However, when I call up the OSD, after a short while it flickers and then disappears in all inputs and just the blue overlay (or the black, the color does not matter) appears. The status display always works. The D2 is hooked up to a Fujitsu 42 inch panel with HDMI at a 1080i/60 scaler output and the picture is really good. I tried adjusting the D2 video settings but that does not bring back the OSD. Also I have a Replay DVR - still treasured for its Commercial Advance - which also only shows the blue screen. If I wait a few hours the OSD might come back for a while. My apologies if this issue has already been addressed in this threat. Thank you very much for any help on this.



First, for your Replay DVR, if you are connecting it to the Anthem via HDMI or DVI, try setting HDMI Repeater = NO in the Anthem's Setup / Source Select menu for that input. This will make the Anthem pretend to the DVR that it is directly connected to a TV.


For your OSD issue, we had one prior poster report a situation where the Setup screen wouldn't stay visible. It would come up, waiver for a while and then vanish. We never heard that he found a solution for this, and he may have just given up and gone to other hardware.


However, sometime after that exchange, I stumbled across the writeup in the manual for Setup / Displays / Main OS Color and Z2 OS Color. According to the V1.1x manual, using these to the change the default (blue) background color used by the Anthem may help some displays sync up properly with the Setup menu.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The last word we had here, attributed to Nick last week, was that the engineer(s) they needed to fix the problem wouldn't be back at work until tomorrow, Jan 2.
> 
> --Bob



As a long time engineer - don't expect a fix in 8 hours.


Until they determine the root cause of the problem and

then engineer a fix and test it - the fix will not be ready.


Some problems can take awhile to get implemented and

distributed.


Engineering might even have a higher priority like NEXT

WEEK's CES SHOW [GRIN]!


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick responses. I will set a side some time at night to start reading through all of this. So audio is good through HDMI with the D2? I have been told to only use it for video and run coaxial for sound.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



I ran some comparisons in my system and found no detectable difference between HDMI and digital coax in terms of the final audio output.


So I recommend HDMI merely for the convenience factor. As BobP said, you will definitely want it for HD/BluRay. I like the minimalist cable approach (as long as no quality is lost).


I know there are some who believe that HDMI audio (and video) is intrinsically inferior to other connections. Apart from HDMI software issues (HDCP, handshaking) I have not detected ANY signal degradations.


----------



## drlopezmdfacc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KIDSMD1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm a newbie (with a big grin) that has read all 109 pages of this great thread and want to give thanks to all of you, with special emphasis to Bob, Levesque, and Drhankz. My D2 (from Audigon) arrived Friday with ver1.0 and with fear I upgraded to ver1.11 but it went without a hitch and I'm living with a gorgeous 1080i picture and awesome audio as a result of all that I learned from this thread.
> 
> 
> I am using a 9m Better Cables HDMI cable to a Hitachi SX5600 PJ and having no problems geting 1080i out HDMI(1m BC) from my SA 8300HD DVR; however my PS3 will only output via component cable, but still a gorgeous pic. I'm in visual/audio bliss but still awaitng my pre-ordered XA2 and JVC-RS1. I will wait until then to figure out my HDMI connection problem with the PS3. Good Luck to all!!



I too have received my D2/P5 and am very happy with the results. I'm no expert and the picture on my Pioneer PRO-730HD is significantly improved whether I am using the 8300 SADVR or my Toshiba Hd-DVD. I have HDMI from the cable box and the DVD player to the D2 and a HDMI to DVI connection to the TV. As predicted by Bob, the picture is significantly improved using the RGB video output. RGB extended (no idea what that is!?) does not look better than regular RGB.


I have some questions: there is a soft hum coming from the P5--is that supposed to be there? I hear no speaker hum. Do I have a ground loop problem? Is this important? Will it "hurt" the amp? I can not hear the hum from my listening position and the sound is otherwise spectacular coming through my M&K 5.2 set-up. Also, still not able to get an analog sound signal from a non-HD channel coming through the cable box; I thought I went through the set-up as advised in the manual. Any thoughts? The screen says it is receiving "Analog-DSP" but I hear nothing. Thanks and Happy New Year!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I ran some comparisons in my system and found no detectable difference between HDMI and digital coax in terms of the final audio output.
> 
> 
> So I recommend HDMI merely for the convenience factor. As BobP said, you will definitely want it for HD/BluRay. I like the minimalist cable approach (as long as no quality is lost).
> 
> 
> I know there are some who believe that HDMI audio (and video) is intrinsically inferior to other connections. Apart from HDMI software issues (HDCP, handshaking) I have not detected ANY signal degradations.



This exactly mirrors my sentiments except when switching between HDMI audio sources and losing audio "lock". I had a hassle just last night but we'll see if moving the HD S3 Tivo to bitstream optical helps in the switching issue.


Please ANYONE post if you have lost HDMI audio in switching between two sources and what you had to do to get HDMI audio back.


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I too have received my D2/P5 and am very happy with the results. I'm no expert and the picture on my Pioneer PRO-730HD is significantly improved whether I am using the 8300 SADVR or my Toshiba Hd-DVD. I have HDMI from the cable box and the DVD player to the D2 and a HDMI to DVI connection to the TV. As predicted by Bob, the picture is significantly improved using the RGB video output. RGB extended (no idea what that is!?) does not look better than regular RGB.
> 
> 
> I have some questions: there is a soft hum coming from the P5--is that supposed to be there? I hear no speaker hum. Do I have a ground loop problem? Is this important? Will it "hurt" the amp? I can not hear the hum from my listening position and the sound is otherwise spectacular coming through my M&K 5.2 set-up. Also, still not able to get an analog sound signal from a non-HD channel coming through the cable box; I thought I went through the set-up as advised in the manual. Any thoughts? The screen says it is receiving "Analog-DSP" but I hear nothing. Thanks and Happy New Year!



There's allot of stuff here that may take a few contributors to answer all of them but in answer to the P5 'HUM" problem the answer is a definite NO, NO WAY, NAADA......etc. I can't believe how quiet both the P5 and P2 are! I suspect a ground loop but Levesque may be able to walk you through a proper diagnostic process to determine the problem. In fact at reference levels with no active content running through them I can't tell the amps are even live except for the blue lights being on...... For me that level of quiet is almost a religious experience. Bob Pariseau can always be counted on for suggesting a disciplined approach to eliminating obvious mistakes that may be affecting your performance. After you have conquered your floor noise problem I will suggest some 'reference material' to try through the toshiba HD-DVD model???? are you unable to go HDMI to HDMI on the Pioneer. I for one have had very poor luck trying the HDMI to DVI (from the HP z558 to the D2) with a very expensive cable. Actually poor luck may be an understatement.....I can't get it to work at all so I have reverted to Component. This works but I believe with less than stellar results compared to just about everything else.......and there is allot of everything else that is spectacular! BUT the M&K's really do sing don't they. Imagine what it will sound like after proper calibration!!!!!!!! No more Viagra for me!!!!


Peter


----------



## sartorius33




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> First, for your Replay DVR, if you are connecting it to the Anthem via HDMI or DVI, try setting HDMI Repeater = NO in the Anthem's Setup / Source Select menu for that input. This will make the Anthem pretend to the DVR that it is directly connected to a TV.
> 
> 
> For your OSD issue, we had one prior poster report a situation where the Setup screen wouldn't stay visible. It would come up, waiver for a while and then vanish. We never heard that he found a solution for this, and he may have just given up and gone to other hardware.
> 
> 
> However, sometime after that exchange, I stumbled across the writeup in the manual for Setup / Displays / Main OS Color and Z2 OS Color. According to the V1.1x manual, using these to the change the default (blue) background color used by the Anthem may help some displays sync up properly with the Setup menu.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you very much for the quick reply. Unfortunately, the Replay is pre-HDMI and outputs from it are either in S-Video or Composite. In either case, the Replay picture and the OSD come on for a while (there is some flickering with the OSD sometimes but not major) after I turn on the D2 with some hours interruption and then the overlay screen appears. I tried changing the color but that does not change the result. I have also turned off all the video processing in the display, though the input resolution from the D2 is of course not the native resolution of the panel. Just wondering, does anybody have a Fuji 42 inch with the D2 which works fine?

Is this unit broken then?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sartorius33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for the quick reply. Unfortunately, the Replay is pre-HDMI and outputs from it are either in S-Video or Composite. In either case, the Replay picture and the OSD come on for a while (there is some flickering with the OSD sometimes but not major) after I turn on the D2 with some hours interruption and then the overlay screen appears. I tried changing the color but that does not change the result. I have also turned off all the video processing in the display, though the input resolution from the D2 is of course not the native resolution of the panel. Just wondering, does anybody have a Fuji 42 inch with the D2 which works fine?
> 
> Is this unit broken then?



I'm using a 30 series Fujitsu 50" via HDMI to DVI and have no such problems.


I think this is one you may need to work with Anthem directly. There may be adjustments for the S-video input from the Replay that will help, but the OSD shouldn't have the type of problem I think you are describing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I too have received my D2/P5 and am very happy with the results. I'm no expert and the picture on my Pioneer PRO-730HD is significantly improved whether I am using the 8300 SADVR or my Toshiba Hd-DVD. I have HDMI from the cable box and the DVD player to the D2 and a HDMI to DVI connection to the TV. As predicted by Bob, the picture is significantly improved using the RGB video output. RGB extended (no idea what that is!?) does not look better than regular RGB.
> 
> 
> I have some questions: there is a soft hum coming from the P5--is that supposed to be there? I hear no speaker hum. Do I have a ground loop problem? Is this important? Will it "hurt" the amp? I can not hear the hum from my listening position and the sound is otherwise spectacular coming through my M&K 5.2 set-up. Also, still not able to get an analog sound signal from a non-HD channel coming through the cable box; I thought I went through the set-up as advised in the manual. Any thoughts? The screen says it is receiving "Analog-DSP" but I hear nothing. Thanks and Happy New Year!



I suspect your 8300 is sending digital audio out even for SDTV channels -- even if it is receiving those over analog-style cable. It will only be digital stereo, of course, not multi-channel, but it will still be digital. Try that first -- i.e., use the same digital audio input you use for your HDTV channels. If that doesn't work for you, then there may be a setting you need to make inside the 8300 itself. We have several 8300 users here who can probably provide more detail.


------------------------------------------------------


Typically what you want for home theater DVI connections is "RGB". In addition, you may need to make a setting to the DVI connection in your TV itself. Look for something in the TV that adjusts its DVI input to expect stuff from a "video" or "set top box" source as opposed to a "computer" or "PC" source. Any DVI connection which is also HDCP (copy protection) compliant should either offer such a setting or should be explicitly spec'ed as being intended for home theater use and NOT for use connecting a computer to the TV. Check your owner's manual.


This all arises because DVI was originally a standard for connecting computers to monitors digitally, and the original use of DVI connectors on TVs was so that folks could use them as digital video computer monitors.


Extended RGB, you see, is the encoding typically used by computer graphics cards.


Technically what's going on is that Extended RGB encodes "Black" as digital 0, and "Reference White" as digital 255. Since the digital signal is limited to the range of 0 to 255 there is no space below Black to encode "Blacker than Black" data and no space above Reference White to encode "Peak White" data.


Blacker than Black data is *NOT* intended to be seen but is in the video signal to help any video processing work better. It keeps the image data from cutting off all of a sudden at Black -- which can produce artifacts when various types of math are performed on the video. Peak White data *IS* intended to be seen, but not all TV's will be capable of reproducing it so the content producers make sure that the image looks good even if the TV cuts off at the slightly lower Reference White level. Glints, sparks, and detail in clouds are examples of Peak White data.


"RGB" on the other hand -- or more properly "Studio RGB" -- encodes Black as digital 16, and Reference White as digital 235.


The range from 1 to 15 in Studio RGB is used for Blacker than Black data, and the range from 236 to 254 is used for Peak White data. 0 and 255 are reserved values.


On the face of it Extended RGB would seem "better" because it provides more steps for displaying the visible gray scale. But in fact Studio RGB is what you want to use because the extra data at either end helps video processing algorithms produce a better result and because the people who are producing the content have designed it to be used that way. So you should only use Extended RGB if your TV input gives you no choice in the matter.


As you can imagine if you send Extended RGB when the TV is expecting RGB or the other way around the first thing you will notice is that black levels are wrong -- either too dark with loss of detail near black, or too gray and washed out. Some TVs provide enough control of black level (Brightness control) that you can compensate and make things SEEM to be correct. But it is still not correct because, in addition to the gray scale differences, the math used to convert YCbCr to RGB *COLOR* information is also a little bit different. This is much harder to pick up by eye. The bottom line is that you want to get the Anthem and your TV to agree on which format of RGB is being used, and, given a choice, that should just be "RGB".


The same issues exist on the input side if your source device insists on sending RGB. Regular "RGB" is the likely default for home theater devices, but if your source is, say, a typical computer graphics card, then it is likely sending Extended RGB. The Anthem can be set to expect either type of input.

--Bob


----------



## rlockshin

Has anyone spoken to Nick at Anthem about the 1080i fix v 1.12?

No sense in everyone with the problem bugging him.

As soon as someone has an update,please post.

i thought that I read somewhere that it would be released on 1/3

Could be wrong with that date

Thanks

rick


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone spoken to Nick at Anthem about the 1080i fix v 1.12?
> 
> No sense in everyone with the problem bugging him.
> 
> As soon as someone has an update,please post.
> 
> i thought that I read somewhere that it would be released on 1/3
> 
> Could be wrong with that date
> 
> Thanks
> 
> rick



I think 1/3 is when they will be back from vacation...


Although I would be surprised to see any new products at CES, I am sure that is their priority for now...


----------



## Rayjr

Hey FilmMixer,

Will you be attending CES?...if so give me a call...we can hang out.


Thanks

RayJr


----------



## JlgLaw

Just posting to move the thread back to the top.


----------



## VTGOLFER

I have a quick question and was wondering if this is the right spot. I currently own the McIntosh MX-119 which I have had for about six weeks now. I love the AQ but since then I have dove head high into HD DVD and BD with a purchase of the Toshiba and the Panasonic players and my Mac only has 3 component inputs which I currently run my HD/Tivo Receiver, X-Box 360 and the Panasonic BD which leaves my Denon 2910 and Toshiba HD DVD player out of the loop which leaves the question I have.


Will the AVM 50 play the new audio codecs through the HDMI inputs? How will the AVM 50 compare to the McIntosh in sound quality? How is the reliability of the AVM 50? What about the ease of use?


I am really contemplating getting the AVM 50 over the Statement D2 because I watch movies a good 90% of the time vs. music. Is the AVM 50 a better choice giving my tendencies?


Thanks for the help.


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone spoken to Nick at Anthem about the 1080i fix v 1.12?
> 
> No sense in everyone with the problem bugging him.
> 
> As soon as someone has an update,please post.
> 
> i thought that I read somewhere that it would be released on 1/3
> 
> Could be wrong with that date
> 
> Thanks
> 
> rick




Spoke with Nick today. He confirmed that the 1080i problem is BOTH an input problem to the Anthem as well as an output problem (which is the issue my AVM-50 has and contrary to what I have read elsewhere in the forum) to the display. Didn't give me a date on the fix but said it would be ASAP. He also told me it has affected only about 10% of the units with 1.10 or 1.11...which subsequently has made it more difficult to resolve because of the fact that it is not a "universal" issue.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Spoke with Nick today. He confirmed that the 1080i problem is BOTH an input problem to the Anthem as well as an output problem (which is the issue my AVM-50 has and contrary to what I have read elsewhere in the forum) to the display. Didn't give me a date on the fix but said it would be ASAP. He also told me it has affected only about 10% of the units with 1.10 or 1.11...which subsequently has made it more difficult to resolve because of the fact that it is not a "universal" issue.



Those sometimes bugs can be hard to track down.


It usually points to race conditions in the logic or

software where some units win the race and others

loose.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VTGOLFER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Will the AVM 50 play the new audio codecs through the HDMI inputs? How will the AVM 50 compare to the McIntosh in sound quality? How is the reliability of the AVM 50? What about the ease of use?
> 
> 
> I am really contemplating getting the AVM 50 over the Statement D2 because I watch movies a good 90% of the time vs. music. Is the AVM 50 a better choice giving my tendencies?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help.



The short answer is that the AVM-50 will work fine for you. However if sound quality is a major factor for you, as is likely the case given your McIntosh background, you should be aware that the D2 has a more exotic audio solution. The audio section of the D2 is an Anthem Statement D1. You can find reviews of the D1 in various places. Whether paying the premium for 192KHz upsampling, etc., is worth it to you is a choice you'll have to make for yourself. There are plenty of AVM-50 owners on this thread who are more than satisfied with the audio they are getting. But the D2 is certainly something to boast about.


That said, the AVM-50 and the D2 have the identical video solution and the same feature set -- TODAY -- as regards audio. However the D2 has spare DSP processing power which is expected to be utilized by a Room EQ solution "real soon now". [The D2 also has a better power supply.]


You may or may not be aware of all the confusion surrounding the new audio codecs for HD-DVD and Blue Ray. Simplifying things, the straight poop is that you HAVE TO buy a player that can decode any of the new high bandwidth audio codecs of interest to you ALL BY ITSELF. You have to do this despite all the hype about HDMI V1.3 and future receiver products with built in decoders. Such solutions WILL NOT WORK for the most important task of playing the vast majority of commercial movie discs in the new formats, again despite the current marketing frenzy trying to convince you otherwise.


But having bought a player that can do the decoding, the D2 or AVM-50 will take it from there. The audio comes over as multi-channel, high bandwidth, full quality, PCM via the HDMI connection.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But having bought a player that can do the decoding, the D2 or AVM-50 will take it from there. The audio comes over as multi-channel, high bandwidth, full quality, PCM via the HDMI connection.
> 
> --Bob



But, understand Anthem cannot do 7.1 PCM, but is there a difference in the bandwidth of the PCM that the 50 vs the D2 can take in. There are about 10 variations of 5.1 PCM with the upper bounds being 192 varieties. I was wondering if the D2 had an edge not in what is internally processed/upsampled, but what can be taken in digitally from the HDMI streams.


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VTGOLFER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a quick question and was wondering if this is the right spot. I currently own the McIntosh MX-119 which I have had for about six weeks now. I love the AQ but since then I have dove head high into HD DVD and BD with a purchase of the Toshiba and the Panasonic players and my Mac only has 3 component inputs which I currently run my HD/Tivo Receiver, X-Box 360 and the Panasonic BD which leaves my Denon 2910 and Toshiba HD DVD player out of the loop which leaves the question I have.
> 
> 
> Will the AVM 50 play the new audio codecs through the HDMI inputs? How will the AVM 50 compare to the McIntosh in sound quality? How is the reliability of the AVM 50? What about the ease of use?
> 
> 
> I am really contemplating getting the AVM 50 over the Statement D2 because I watch movies a good 90% of the time vs. music. Is the AVM 50 a better choice giving my tendencies?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help.



I purchased a D1 rather than a AVM 30 because what I perceived to be better audio quality in the D1. After over 2 years of use the decision seems to have been a good one. I really like the sound. I would encourage you to give the D2 a listen if you enjoy the audio as well as the video.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But, understand Anthem cannot do 7.1 PCM, but is there a difference in the bandwidth of the PCM that the 50 vs the D2 can take in. There are about 10 variations of 5.1 PCM with the upper bounds being 192 varieties. I was wondering if the D2 had an edge not in what is internally processed/upsampled, but what can be taken in digitally from the HDMI streams.



Interesting question! I can't find any specific spec on this anywhere in the D2 or AVM-50 stuff.


It is known that only the D2 can handle 96/24 DTS, and that both the D2 and AVM-50 are limited to 5.1 channel PCM over HDMI, but the specs on what level of PCM bandwidth the D2 and AVM-50 will accept over HDMI don't seem to be printed.

--Bob


----------



## barrykeck

Just purchased the Anthem AVM50 and MCA 50Amp (waiting for delivery). My plasma TV is the Pioneer Elite Pro-HD1. My question is that I have an Integra DVD player that I purchased in 1998. It operates at 480i and only has S-Video and the old one RCA jack video outputs. What is the preferred DVD player to go with the Anthem AVM 50? I believe the Anthem would de-interlace and upscale better than most DVD players. (I not a blue-ray or HD DVD person - My DVD's are from the Rental Stores). Should I look for a modern DVD player that puts out at 480i?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrykeck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just purchased the Anthem AVM50 and MCA 50Amp (waiting for delivery). My plasma TV is the Pioneer Elite Pro-HD1. My question is that I have an Integra DVD player that I purchased in 1998. It operates at 480i and only has S-Video and the old one RCA jack video outputs. What is the preferred DVD player to go with the Anthem AVM 50? I believe the Anthem would de-interlace and upscale better than most DVD players. (I not a blue-ray or HD DVD person - My DVD's are from the Rental Stores). Should I look for a modern DVD player that puts out at 480i?



The hands down favorite is the Oppo 970 -- connected to the AVM-50 via HDMI 480i. Either purchase it direct from Oppo, or I believe you can now even purchase here on this site through AVS. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the price. Be sure you get the 970 instead of the older Oppo 971 or the newer Oppo 981. Those last two players are intended for people who don't plan on using a high end de-interlacing and scaling solution.

--Bob


----------



## barrykeck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The hands down favorite is the Oppo 970 -- connected to the AVM-50 via HDMI 480i. Either purchase it direct from Oppo, or I believe you can now even purchase here on this site through AVS. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the price. Be sure you get the 970 instead of the older Oppo 971 or the newer Oppo 981. Those last two players are intended for people who don't plan on using a high end de-interlacing and scaling solution.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob - I appreciate your help.


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrykeck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just purchased the Anthem AVM50 and MCA 50Amp (waiting for delivery). My plasma TV is the Pioneer Elite Pro-HD1. My question is that I have an Integra DVD player that I purchased in 1998. It operates at 480i and only has S-Video and the old one RCA jack video outputs. What is the preferred DVD player to go with the Anthem AVM 50? I believe the Anthem would de-interlace and upscale better than most DVD players. (I not a blue-ray or HD DVD person - My DVD's are from the Rental Stores). Should I look for a modern DVD player that puts out at 480i?



I have the new Toshiba HD A2 and am awaiting, on backorder, the avm 50 to go with my Optoma 7100 and my 96" horizontal Vutek screen. The Toshiba is absolutely fantastic. I get all the hd movies available through netflix and IMHO no matter how good your dvd player may be, it can't hold a candle to the audio and video quality of what comes off a HD disc. The second generation toshiba hd player is unbeatable. No non hd player can compare.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrykeck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just purchased the Anthem AVM50 and MCA 50Amp (waiting for delivery). My plasma TV is the Pioneer Elite Pro-HD1. My question is that I have an Integra DVD player that I purchased in 1998. It operates at 480i and only has S-Video and the old one RCA jack video outputs. What is the preferred DVD player to go with the Anthem AVM 50? I believe the Anthem would de-interlace and upscale better than most DVD players. (I not a blue-ray or HD DVD person - My DVD's are from the Rental Stores). Should I look for a modern DVD player that puts out at 480i?




Barrjkeck: I have the Oppo 970HD linked to an AVM50 and can tell you it is phenomenal. Purchased here in Canada for $166. I think it is about $150 US. This seems to be a very popular piece for owners of the AVM50 and D2 due to the fact that it will output 480i over HDMI, not to mention it's outstanding reviews. One review that I read even compared them to HD or Blue-ray, I forget which one and I'm not even sure if that review was for the 970 or their older model. Not bad for $166. Another advantage is that they are firmware upgradeable and also playback SACD and DVD-A. The only fault they appear to have is that they look like a $150 DVD player. Key for me is that they certainly will outperform any $150 player I know of and many at 10X the price. Good Luck!


----------



## bluemark81

Bob:


As you will remember, I have been having some video problems using my HD receiver. I'm not sure that changing from 720p to 1080i output (Once Anthem comes up with a fix) will resolve this particular issue, however, I thought I would bounce this off you in any case:


I just finished watching the world Junior Semi Final hockey Championships on TSN. One thing I noted is when the camera panned up the ice, the writing on the boards distorted into a scrambled state. It almost reminded me of a very slow refresh rate, but as you know I am running a HD CRT display.


Any ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> As you will remember, I have been having some video problems using my HD receiver. I'm not sure that changing from 720p to 1080i output (Once Anthem comes up with a fix) will resolve this particular issue, however, I thought I would bounce this off you in any case:
> 
> 
> I just finished watching the world Junior Semi Final hockey Championships on TSN. One thing I noted is when the camera panned up the ice, the writing on the boards distorted into a scrambled state. It almost reminded me of a very slow refresh rate, but as you know I am running a HD CRT display.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



Sure, that sounds like it could either be scaling issues from your set top box (1080i gets de-interlaced and then scaled to 720p by the box the way you have to have it set right now -- not very well) or it could be compression artifacts. If I recall correctly you are using a satellite feed. Over compression kind of comes with the territory on those right now.


Panning like that commonly cause de-interlacing problems. It would be even more visible if this was an SD channel that you were having the box de-interlace (from 480i to 480p) and then scale to 720p.


Also, a CRT display like yours typically takes a 1080i signal and actually displays it "line doubled". But the net result is that you still see "interlace flicker" of thin horizontal lines since the line actually is captured by only half of the interlaced fields.


Any of these could easily be the cause. Let's wait until Anthem gets you the software fix and you can get your set top box properly configured. Then we'll take it from there.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting question! I can't find any specific spec on this anywhere in the D2 or AVM-50 stuff.
> 
> 
> It is known that only the D2 can handle 96/24 DTS, and that both the D2 and AVM-50 are limited to 5.1 channel PCM over HDMI, but the specs on what level of PCM bandwidth the D2 and AVM-50 will accept over HDMI don't seem to be printed.
> 
> --Bob



Since the PS3 and most likely newly shipping Blu-Ray & HD DVD players will be outputting linear PCM, it would be good to know. Will try Nick. For example the PS3 supports:
Linear PCM 2CH (44.1kHz, 88.2kHz, 48kHz, 96kHz, or 192kHz),

Linear PCM 5.1CH (44.1kHz, 88.2kHz, 48kHz, 96kHz, or 192kHz),

Linear PCM 7.1CH (44.1kHz, 88.2kHz, 48kHz, 96kHz, or 192kHz).


----------



## barrykeck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Barrjkeck: I have the Oppo 970HD linked to an AVM50 and can tell you it is phenomenal. Purchased here in Canada for $166. I think it is about $150 US. This seems to be a very popular piece for owners of the AVM50 and D2 due to the fact that it will output 480i over HDMI, not to mention it's outstanding reviews. One review that I read even compared them to HD or Blue-ray, I forget which one and I'm not even sure if that review was for the 970 or their older model. Not bad for $166. Another advantage is that they are firmware upgradeable and also playback SACD and DVD-A. The only fault they appear to have is that they look like a $150 DVD player. Key for me is that they certainly will outperform any $150 player I know of and many at 10X the price. Good Luck!



Thanks BlueMark81...I searched this site and other sites regarding the Oppo DV-970HD. This will be ideal for me. I'm ordering it today.


----------



## neff2k

I just wanted to post again on how incredible moving to the AVM50 has been. Nothing informational to post, just content with my decision.


Over the last month I have went from the following:

Denon 3805

Infinity Overture 1s

Infinity Video One Center

Infinity BU-150 Sub

Denon 3910


To the following:

AVM-50

Anthem A5

Paradigm Studio 100 v4

Paradigm Studio cc-690

Paradigm Seismic 12

Denon 3910

GIK Room treatments


Everything except for the AVM-50 was switched out at the beginning of December, and then the AVM came in right before Christmas. It has been a really exciting month. I am definitely amazed at the difference in music/movies between the two setups. I always wondered what the big deal about 2 channel listening was. Well, now I know. I don't even listen to music in the surround sound mode anymore since the stage with this system already feels huge. While it may not be as high end as some of the systems in these forums, for me it is a real dream. I had not bought a CD in almost three or four years. Now I find myself making excuses to visit Best Buy/Wal-Mart just to pick up more. While I would to listen to Jazz and Orchestra every once in a while, I now find these two types of music to be more enjoyable than a good back massage.


Oh and video, while the music is phenomenal I had no idea the display on my Hitachi could be this good. I only druel at the thought of what HD-DVD will bring to it. At this point my screen is Native 720p which I think should last me at least another year or two.


The only problem I have found with moving to this system is how picky my taste has become. Before this move, I use to love listening to music in my car. It has the Bose system in it, and while that is a cuss word around here, I really felt it was a great sounding car audio system. It still sounds good, but nothing in comparison to what awaits me when I get home.


So thank you to everyone for your help and information, it is just priceless.


On Edit: Also my Oppo 970HD will be here today, so I am excited to see what the difference will be with it feeding native 480i to the AVM vs the Denon's 480p.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Darrell,

For music listening from any stereo souce, try the "Anthem Logic Music" mode. This is a NON-aggressive surround mode (i.e., not much generated surround) with the Center channel turned off to keep the front imaging pure. Compare this to Stereo mode which is, of course, unaltered, pure two-channel [*** EDIT: PLUS SUBWOOFER if you have your LF and RF speakers configured as "small". ***]


In my setup I've settled on the AL-Music mode as my standard music listening mode in my primary listening position. If I know I'll be moving around the room a lot for whatever reason, but still want to listen critically to music, I'll switch to Stereo mode since the surround speakers can be a distraction.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k

Will definitely give that a try Bob. Thanks.


----------



## maclarenjc

Hello all,


Have read through several of the posts here and my dealer has reported several recent AVM50's being returned for video issues but I was not sure what issue.


I recevied my AVM50 ver 1.11 yesterday and plugged in my Moto cable box via HDMI and set the AVM50 to output to Sony SXRD 50" via HDMI 1920 x 1080i/60. That is working fine after some initial handshaking issues as I was a bit worried about that given the issues I saw here regarding 1080i input/output.


My issues are with my component inputs. I have an Integra DPC 8.5 set to output 480i so AVM50 can do upscaling, etc. I also have a PS2 via component and a Netgear EVA700 media server via component as well. The most common symptom is a flashing blue screen on my display and when I toggle AVM status it is saying no video input signal so seems to be having an issue locking on.


Last night PS2 via Component 3 was working fine and I got a blip via Component 1 from the DVD player. Netgear via Component 2 has never gotten a signal to the display. This morning now nothing is working via component. I have also tried plugging those devices directly into the Sony via component and they display fine.


I spoke with Anthem tech support this morning, didnt catch the persons name. They had me try various things like trying different cables via different component inputs, etc. to no avail. We ended with them saying I need to take it into my dealer and have them try with different cables and DVD player, etc. to see if problem is replicable.


On my own I also tried outputting from the AVM via component to the Sony display but couldnt get anything to display except the OSD. I also downrezzed the output to 720p and set preferred output to Component but when I switched to DVD input I kept getting a Macrovision Max 480p warning on the AVM50 display so I then changed the video output to 480p and still could not get any video output. I was thinking I could live with component if I just needed to wait for a firmware upgrade.


I have double checked my source input setups regarding video and scaler inputs and all seems correct but I just cant get component inputs to work and I dont have another DVD player to try but the other components can only output via component anyway so I need those inputs to work on the AVM50.


These same components and cables all worked fine before the AVM50 with a Denon 2807 which also took component inputs and outputted via HDMI 1080i. I certainly sympathize with Anthem and the complexity of this video processing but it appears Denon was able to have this working successfully but just doesnt have the video adjustments that the AVM50 has but I havent even been able to tweak those settings as of yet.


Anyone have any other ideas I can try or have similar symptoms?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *maclarenjc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My issues are with my component inputs. I have an Integra DPC 8.5 set to output 480i so AVM50 can do upscaling, etc. I also have a PS2 via component and a Netgear EVA700 media server via component as well. The most common symptom is a flashing blue screen on my display and when I toggle AVM status it is saying no video input signal so seems to be having an issue locking on.



It sounds to me like you have a faulty AVM-50. I think that Anthem's suggestion made sense: See if it does the same thing in a different enviroment (the store) with different equipment. This will eliminate any possible environmental factor in your home setup.


If it fails in the store then obviously the AVM--50 is toast. It is likely Anthem will just swap it out. There are plenty of folks here using Component video inputs without problem. The problem you are having is not common by any means.


If it works in the store, then the most likely thing I can think of is that you have a pretty severe ground loop (power travelling between devices along the shields of the various cables) which is confusing the Anthem. The most common source of such problems is the incoming wire from a cable TV service.


However I would expect that to give you problems on the HDMI side as well, and also a loud buzz in your speakers -- particularly the subwoofer.


I'm sure your dealer wants you to be happy with this purchase as well, so there should be no problem getting some time to try a few things in the store with your AVM-50.

--Bob


----------



## maclarenjc

Thanks for the quick reply Bob. I would have also thought that the ground loop would have affected the Denon as well. Now that I think about the since hooking up the AVM50 I noticed the regular cable channels via RF coax into the Sony display had some visible interference on them but the high def channels looked OK so at the time I just assumed that SD feed was bad at that moment but I do also have the RF coax laying on the av cables behind the equipment. Perhaps I could try lifting the RF coax out of the way of those and try again...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *maclarenjc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply Bob. I would have also thought that the ground loop would have affected the Denon as well. Now that I think about the since hooking up the AVM50 I noticed the regular cable channels via RF coax into the Sony display had some visible interference on them but the high def channels looked OK so at the time I just assumed that SD feed was bad at that moment but I do also have the RF coax laying on the av cables behind the equipment. Perhaps I could try lifting the RF coax out of the way of those and try again...



This is not a signal radiating from the cable TV cable. It is, rather, garbage coming in on the shield of the cable itself because the cable has not been properly grounded at its point of entry to your house. It is mostly 60hz power. It won't electrocute you but it plays havoc with your other electronics. It travels from device to device via the "ground" connections -- basically the shielding found in all the cables between them, and eventually exits through the ground pin of some device with a 3 prong power outlet.


Here's a simple test: Disconnect the incoming cable TV cable feed from your equipment. If you have more than one cable TV setup in your house, disconnect the cable feed for ALL of them just to be sure. Now see if the Component video stuff from your other devices works better through the AVM-50. If so, then you need to block the garbage coming in on that cable TV cable.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If so, then you need to block the garbage coming in on that cable TV cable.
> 
> --Bob



If that is the case - there are filters for that.


I use them.


I'm Ground-loop paranoid [GRIN]!


----------



## bluemark81

I have tried using the Simulcast feature several times to keep the display on while listening to a CD. The issue I have is if I am set to Sat1 or DVD1 and hold the these buttons down to activate the simulcast feature, it will first go to Sat2 or DVD2 as opposed to staying at either Sat1 or DVD1. In other words I end up watching the signal from Sat 2 as opposed to Sat1 while listening to a CD. The same is true of the DVD inputs.


Anyone else experiencing this?


----------



## Jongoldman

I just got my D2 installed today. I have a Sony DVD player (the 400 capacity HDMI model w/o the RS-232 port) that is set to output interlaced video. The D2 is showing 1080i in the digital display even though the Sony can't output that (that i know of).


Same thing is also happening with my cable box (Scientific Atlanta), even in the old non-HD channels, but that could be the box.


The D2 is running 1.06.


Its going to a Panasonic 65PX600U (the consumer 1080P model Plasma). The installer set it to output 1920 @ 60, is that right?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jongoldman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my D2 installed today. I have a Sony DVD player (the 400 capacity HDMI model w/o the RS-232 port) that is set to output interlaced video. The D2 is showing 1080i in the digital display even though the Sony can't output that (that i know of).
> 
> 
> Same thing is also happening with my cable box (Scientific Atlanta), even in the old non-HD channels, but that could be the box.
> 
> 
> The D2 is running 1.06.
> 
> 
> Its going to a Panasonic 65PX600U (the consumer 1080P model Plasma). The installer set it to output 1920 @ 60, is that right?



Everything sounds ok.. your DVD player(the DVPCX995V?) is upscaling to 1080i ( it doesn't do 480i over HDMI), your cable box is upconverting everything to 1080i, and the installer set it to output 1920x1080/60p... that is correct..


----------



## Jongoldman

The quality from the Sony is quite good. Do you think it would be worth using Component to see if 480i is better?


I have to play with the cable box, I'd imagine its doing a lousy job of upconverting.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have tried using the Simulcast feature several times to keep the display on while listening to a CD. The issue I have is if I am set to Sat1 or DVD1 and hold the these buttons down to activate the simulcast feature, it will first go to Sat2 or DVD2 as opposed to staying at either Sat1 or DVD1. In other words I end up watching the signal from Sat 2 as opposed to Sat1 while listening to a CD. The same is true of the DVD inputs.
> 
> 
> Anyone else experiencing this?



Oh great!


I don't use Simulcast myself as I've set up my inputs for such "mixed" sources already.


I wouldn't be at all surprised to discover Anthem broke Simulcast when introducing the new, overlayed inputs (i.e., DVD 1 and DVD 2, etc.).


If you are not actually using the overlayed inputs you can individually "disable" them in the Setup / Source Select menu, and that should get Simulcast working for you for at least the main input of the same name, but if this is truly the way it is working now it is a pretty egregious bug.


Deep sigh....


This is one Anthem is going to have to tackle.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jongoldman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The quality from the Sony is quite good. Do you think it would be worth using Component to see if 480i is better?
> 
> 
> I have to play with the cable box, I'd imagine its doing a lousy job of upconverting.



Absolutely. The content coming off the standard DVDs is 480i. The Anthem almost certainly does a better job of de-interlacing and scaling than the DVD player.


For many players, Component 480i output is every bit as good as HDMI 480i output. For some players there will be some gratuitous filtering introduced which loses just a bit of image resolution.


You just have to be careful to separately calibrate the basic blacks/whites/colors/ sharpness levels for each style of input from each device. I.e., there's no good reason to assume that the best levels in the Anthem input settings for any HDMI device (even one sending 480i) will ALSO, automatically be the best input levels for 480i from a Component video device -- EVEN IF IT IS THE SAME DEVICE.


Set up video output from the Anthem to your TV first using the TVs own level controls and then separately set the Anthem input levels for each source.


-------------------------------------------------------


For the cable box, see if you can set it to a mode which passes through exactly what it is receiving. For SDTV channels that will always be 480i. For HDTV channels it will usually be 1080i but sometimes will be 720p.

--bob


----------



## maclarenjc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a simple test: Disconnect the incoming cable TV cable feed from your equipment. If you have more than one cable TV setup in your house, disconnect the cable feed for ALL of them just to be sure. Now see if the Component video stuff from your other devices works better through the AVM-50. If so, then you need to block the garbage coming in on that cable TV cable.
> 
> --Bob



I disconnected all the cable feeds and am still having issues. I did find with the DVD player to Anthem issue that if I hit the "Stop" button on the DVD remote to get it to return to the Integra splash screen that the Anthem then gets the video sync and I can then play the DVD fine but as soon as I switch to another video input then go back to DVD I need to hit stop again or it never gets video sync again.


Guess I will be taking it into my dealer and trying more tests there...


----------



## Jose_L

Pardon my post, but I'm trying to decide if it's worth it for me to upgrade my avm20v2 to a avm20-HD (avm50)..


Would I benefit ?


Hitachi 65S500 65" rptv it has component & DVI inputs.. (1080i, 720p, 480p, 480i)


Pioneer Elite Laser Disc/DVD player does composite, s-video & component (dvd only) at 480i


Panasonic Progressive DVD CP72 does 480p thru component



Anyway what I'm trying to decide is whether the upgrade would benefit me w/ my current 2yr RPTV..


Will it upconvert all my sources to 1080i ? dvd's and LD's ..?? thru either component or DVI ??


BTW, my local dealer is of no help...so I'd deal directly w/ Anthem.


Thanks for the advice ..


Regards,

Jose


----------



## yatchaks

I have a question about the 24/96Khz setting within the AVM50.


I have purchased the new Slimdevices Transporter (incredible DAC/world clock besting the AVM) for music listening. The Transporter is capable of 24/96Khz output.


Never have I owned 24/96 recordings, but Santa dropped off the Best Of Audiophile Voices collection as well as a few other 24/96 recordings.


The Transporter is connected via balanced cables to the AVM and is running in two channel direct mode.


My question is, should I switch to 96Khz in the AVM when listening to 24/96 recordings, or stay with 44.1?


Or, since its balanced direct, does the AVM pass through the native format?


Mark


----------



## GabGuy

I have an older HDTV with component inputs only- no HDMI or DVI inputs. Can the D2/AVM50 transmit a Gennum VXP-processed signal at 1080i through the component outputs? So if I fed it HDMI 480i from an Oppo 970 and HDMI 1080i from my Dish 921, then the processor does its thing and gives me an improved 1080i component signal to feed my TV?


----------



## maclarenjc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jose_L* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Pardon my post, but I'm trying to decide if it's worth it for me to upgrade my avm20v2 to a avm20-HD (avm50)..
> 
> 
> Will it upconvert all my sources to 1080i ? dvd's and LD's ..?? thru either component or DVI ??
> 
> 
> BTW, my local dealer is of no help...so I'd deal directly w/ Anthem.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice ..
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Jose



I am sure others will reply shortly.


In general the Gennum VXP processing in the Anthem AVM50 and D2 is considered to be among the best at its price point. There are many forums posts which go into details on this. That being said if you do not need the extensive tweaking capability and sound qualities of the AVM50/D2 then there are less expensive receivers such as Denon 2807 and others which can also do basic upconversion/switching of video sources and output HDMI as well.


It can upconvert and process from s-video, component, hdmi inputs and output that via component and/or HDMI to a display device. In your case you will need an HDMI -> DVI cable to go from the AVM into your display. It has configurable output resolutions so you can do 1080i, 720p and many other variations.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GabGuy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have an older HDTV with component inputs only- no HDMI or DVI inputs. Can the D2/AVM50 transmit a Gennum VXP-processed signal at 1080i through the component outputs? So if I fed it HDMI 480i from an Oppo 970 and HDMI 1080i from my Dish 921, then the processor does its thing and gives me an improved 1080i component signal to feed my TV?



No. It is a violation of the industry's required copy protection scheme -- a mandatory part of HDMI -- for any device to turn a typical, home theater, copy protected HDMI source into a Component video output.


The Anthems can scale Component video inputs to higher resolution and send that out on HDMI output whether or not the input Component video is copy protected. They can do the same with Component to Component so long as the input Component video is not "Macrovision" copy protected. Otherwise you are limited to 480p Component video output.


Basically this means that HDMI sources will be useless to you.


Component video from cable and satellite boxes can be handled just fine by the Anthem -- with 480i SDTV and 720p HDTV scaled up to Component 1080i output for you. Such signals are not copy protected. Component 1080i input will also be adjusted as necessary for color space and format.


Component video from standard DVD players will be de-interlaced from 480i to 480p by the Anthem -- which is a major thing in its own right -- but may not be scaled up depending upon how the disc is authored.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jose_L* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Pardon my post, but I'm trying to decide if it's worth it for me to upgrade my avm20v2 to a avm20-HD (avm50)..
> 
> 
> Would I benefit ?
> 
> 
> Hitachi 65S500 65" rptv it has component & DVI inputs.. (1080i, 720p, 480p, 480i)
> 
> 
> Pioneer Elite Laser Disc/DVD player does composite, s-video & component (dvd only) at 480i
> 
> 
> Panasonic Progressive DVD CP72 does 480p thru component
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway what I'm trying to decide is whether the upgrade would benefit me w/ my current 2yr RPTV..
> 
> 
> Will it upconvert all my sources to 1080i ? dvd's and LD's ..?? thru either component or DVI ??
> 
> 
> BTW, my local dealer is of no help...so I'd deal directly w/ Anthem.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice ..
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Jose



Jose,

You need to pull out your TV owner's manual and verify that the DVI input on your TV is "HDCP compliant". HDCP is the industry's copy protection scheme for HDMI and DVI. If you TV's DVI input is HDCP compliant than the upgrade to the AVM-50 feature set should work just fine for you even if you buy some HDMI source devices in the future.


By the way, your progressive DVD player probably has an option (usually a menu setting, but sometimes also a switch on the back) to TURN OFF the progressive output, so that it sends 480i out over the Component video cables. This is the way you want to use it with the AVM-50. Let the AVM-50 do the de-interlacing of the 480i (which is what actually comes off the DVD discs) to 480p as it will likely do a much better job.


If your laser disc player can't use Component video for output when playing laser discs, then S-video is the way to go. S-video will always be 480i.


You don't mention a TV source, so you may just be using the tuner in your TV. This is not ideal because the AVM-50 will not be able to help improve that viewing. You might want to switch to a set top box, or check and see if you can feed Component video tuner output from your TV to the Anthem and then BACK to the TV.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a question about the 24/96Khz setting within the AVM50.
> 
> 
> I have purchased the new Slimdevices Transporter (incredible DAC/world clock besting the AVM) for music listening. The Transporter is capable of 24/96Khz output.
> 
> 
> Never have I owned 24/96 recordings, but Santa dropped off the Best Of Audiophile Voices collection as well as a few other 24/96 recordings.
> 
> 
> The Transporter is connected via balanced cables to the AVM and is running in two channel direct mode.
> 
> 
> My question is, should I switch to 96Khz in the AVM when listening to 24/96 recordings, or stay with 44.1?
> 
> 
> Or, since its balanced direct, does the AVM pass through the native format?
> 
> 
> Mark



I presume you are talking about the "sampling frequency" setting in the Anthem's Setup / ADC - Audio Output menu. If so, that setting has no effect when you have the Anthem's 2 channel analog input set to Analog-Direct. It only affects the sampling rate when you use Analog-DSP for that input, in which case it is the sampling rate for converting the analog audio input signal into digital audio inside the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *maclarenjc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Guess I will be taking it into my dealer and trying more tests there...



That sounds like the best plan. If it is easy to demonstrate the Component video side of your video board is flakey then you can get the wheels turning to get a replacement. No need to try to diagnose it further at home.


If it WORKS in the store, then we have a bit of a challenge ahead of us.


By the way, I'd suggest you bring your PLAYER to the store as well.


If the Anthem works via Component with the STORE'S player and display, then swap in your player and see if still works with the store's display. If so, that means it is either a display problem at your end or an environemental problem such as a ground loop not caused by the cable TV, or perhaps flakey cables.

--Bob


----------



## Jose_L

Bob Pariseau, & everyone ..


Thanks for the reply's..


I checked the manual for the rptv, it does say that it has a HDCP compliant DVI input..


So I could use a hdmi > DVI cable...


But setting the LD (svideo) & Panasonic DVD (component) both to 480i what would the avm50 do ? upconvert to 1080i or 480p ??


Thank you for your time,,


Regards,

Jose


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jose_L* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob Pariseau, & everyone ..
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply's..
> 
> 
> I checked the manual for the rptv, it does say that it has a HDCP compliant DVI input..
> 
> 
> So I could use a hdmi > DVI cable...
> 
> 
> But setting the LD (svideo) & Panasonic DVD (component) both to 480i what would the avm50 do ? upconvert to 1080i or 480p ??
> 
> 
> Thank you for your time,,
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Jose



The AVM-50 will upconvert either of those to 1080i if you so wish. De-interlacing from 480i to 480p gets done as a preliminary step when doing that.

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I presume you are talking about the "sampling frequency" setting in the Anthem's Setup / ADC - Audio Output menu. If so, that setting has no effect when you have the Anthem's 2 channel analog input set to Analog-Direct. It only affects the sampling rate when you use Analog-DSP for that input, in which case it is the sampling rate for converting the analog audio input signal into digital audio inside the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob. I was writing from work and could have sworn 96Khz was an option while running Analog/Direct. Sometimes I get a little to excited to experiment with new ideas, and become brain dead.


While I'm thinking of it, the Transporter actually has a built in pre-amp. Some have decided to bypass their dedicated pre-amp in favor of the transporter's pre-amp, and run straight into their amp. Analog output attenuation is available for this purpose.


I'm thinking of attempting this, but wonder if the AVM's balanced in bypasses the AVM's internal parts all together. Hence, it's the same as running directly to the amp anyway, so no need to spend time pulling equuipment and rerouting cables.


Any thoughts?


Mark


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I was writing from work and could have sworn 96Khz was an option while running Analog/Direct. Sometimes I get a little to excited to experiment with new ideas, and become brain dead.
> 
> 
> While I'm thinking of it, the Transporter actually has a built in pre-amp. Some have decided to bypass their dedicated pre-amp in favor of the transporter's pre-amp, and run straight into their amp. Analog output attenuation is available for this purpose.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of attempting this, but wonder if the AVM's balanced in bypasses the AVM's internal parts all together. Hence, it's the same as running directly to the amp anyway, so no need to spend time pulling equuipment and rerouting cables.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Mark



Hey Mark,

I also have the Transporter with the D2







They RULE!

I'm guessing your using full range main speakers, as you want to bypass the D2 bass management, etc....

I believe Analog-Direct in the D2 bypasses all processing except volume control.

So you should be good to go through the D2.

You might want to also try using the BNC digital out of the Transporter into the BNC digital input of the D2.... sounds very nice. As good as the Transporter's DAC? I think so... but then you're sort of wasting the excellent sounding DAC of the Transporter







My remedy is to use both connections and alternate every now and then. Make sure you check the D2 analog level control as the Transporter's analog output is so strong I had to turn this control in the D2 down 9db









If not you get an overload situation within the D2 and it sounds horrible.


dc


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Mark,
> 
> I also have the Transporter with the D2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They RULE!
> 
> I'm guessing your using full range main speakers, as you want to bypass the D2 bass management, etc....
> 
> I believe Analog-Direct in the D2 bypasses all processing except volume control.
> 
> So you should be good to go through the D2.
> 
> You might want to also try using the BNC digital out of the Transporter into the BNC digital input of the D2.... sounds very nice. As good as the Transporter's DAC? I think so... but then you're sort of wasting the excellent sounding DAC of the Transporter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My remedy is to use both connections and alternate every now and then. Make sure you check the D2 analog level control as the Transporter's analog output is so strong I had to turn this control in the D2 down 9db
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not you get an overload situation within the D2 and it sounds horrible.
> 
> 
> dc



Thanks a lot, I really appreciate the advice!


I'll leave it hooked via the balanced connection.


Previously, I was using my Mac Mini as a transport and I am very happy with the Transporter finding its way into my home, it as an incredible sounding piece of equipment.


I hope others on this forum who listen to a lot of music, give the Transporter a whirl. I'm sure they will be as pleased as we are.


The free squeezebox found itself in my wifes bathroom, and she loves it.


Disclaimer: I don't work for slimdevices or work in the audio/video field, just very pleased with their product and spreading the word of a not to well known product/technology.



Mark


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jose_L* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob Pariseau, & everyone ..
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply's..
> 
> 
> I checked the manual for the rptv, it does say that it has a HDCP compliant DVI input..
> 
> 
> So I could use a hdmi > DVI cable...
> 
> 
> But setting the LD (svideo) & Panasonic DVD (component) both to 480i what would the avm50 do ? upconvert to 1080i or 480p ??
> 
> 
> Thank you for your time,,
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Jose



Jose,


The theory, well founded is you want the output of the Anthem to match the native rate, preferably even pixel for pixel with your display device. This will scale and deinterlace as necessary and most appropriate input sources to the target display resolution and other characteristics within the constraints of any copy protection issues.


So many different sources in (preferably as close to 480i standard def in & 720p or 1080 i/p for High Def) and let the Anthem do the magic. The better calibrated the output to the display and the inputs into the anthem the better the picture you will get.


Getting as close to native rate out of the anthem is the raison d'etre (where's that crazy circumflex or other symbol when you need it).


Tim


----------



## IncraTL

Yellow

Hi:

After reading the discussions concerning the inability of the D2 to support PIP or P by P, I have the following question:

For my 5.2 HT, (2 subs, zone 1) plus 2.1, (zone2, 1 sub), I had planned to purchase a NEC PX-50XR6, (w/ PIP features). If I have OTA reception and DVR, no cable nor satellite, could I still realize PIP from the plasma, (through the D2)?



(2) Onix ref 3

(1) Onix ref 1

(2) Onix ref 100

(2) Onix RSS300

SMS-1

TrueRTA

D2,(future)

A5,(future)

A2, (future)

(3) UFW-12, (future)

(1) NEC PX-50XR6, (fututre)

(1) Inca swivel powered plasma lift


----------



## Nathan_R

Does anyone have a Anthem D2/AVM-50 feeding an Optoma HD70, by chance? I picked up the DLP projector this evening for game nights with the buddies and I've read elsewhere on the forum that the projector accepts 1080p/60 (though it scales it back down to 720p/60). This was attractive to me as I could keep my Anthem's scaler at 1080p/60 and feed my 1080p tv and my 720p PJ at the same time, without toggling resolutions.


However, I can't get the PJ to accept 1080p/60. It accepts 1080p/24, 1080p/25, and 1080p/30 with stuttering, but it can't find the signal on 1080p/60.


Ok, with that said, I'm temporarily using (until my HDMI cable arrives next week) a DVI-DVI cable with an DVI->HDMI adapter at each end. Could this possibly be my problem? Should I mess with the Anthem's frame lock properties or something instead?


----------



## HTfanatic4life




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Is this a hardware limitation in the Anthem ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't know the answer to that. In any event it is not a significant limitation.
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...


Bob,

Could you please expand on this?


I understand there isn't much software currently supporting more than 5.1 LPCM tracks, however, at which time we see more titles including additional tracks, encoded with Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD, what are D1-HD/D2 owners going to do? As it stands right now, we have no ability to work with more than 5.1 LPCM channels via HDMI.


This has me concerned, albeit, I'm not sure how concerned I should really be, or if I should assume at which time this becomes a bigger issue Anthem will be able to upgrade the unit accordingly.


I suppose I assumed a flagship product such as this would have no trouble working with these new high-def audio formats through some kind of upgrade, and I'm a little surprised to find out it doesn't! Well, not 100% support anyways. More over, if my reading is correct (may be wrong here); some receivers currently exist or are on the horizon that accept 7.1 LPCM, costing thousands of dollars less than the D1-HD/D2! Granted, they won't have the video processing, but let's stick with the audio side of things; they can do 7.1!


What are peoples take on this limitation of the D1-HD/D2? Reason for concern, or not? Facing a pending upgrade to my D1 in order to get HDMI, I wonder if I should be instead considering a different pre-pro that's more future friendly.


Aside from this 5.1 LPCM limitation, I love the D1; a beautiful and remarkable sounding piece of consumer electronics.


Cheers.


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a Anthem D2/AVM-50 feeding an Optoma HD70, by chance? I picked up the DLP projector this evening for game nights with the buddies and I've read elsewhere on the forum that the projector accepts 1080p/60 (though it scales it back down to 720p/60). This was attractive to me as I could keep my Anthem's scaler at 1080p/60 and feed my 1080p tv and my 720p PJ at the same time, without toggling resolutions.
> 
> 
> However, I can't get the PJ to accept 1080p/60. It accepts 1080p/24, 1080p/25, and 1080p/30 with stuttering, but it can't find the signal on 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> Ok, with that said, I'm temporarily using (until my HDMI cable arrives next week) a DVI-DVI cable with an DVI->HDMI adapter at each end. Could this possibly be my problem? Should I mess with the Anthem's frame lock properties or something instead?



Are you using a good quality HDMI cable & how long is the cable run? 1080p/60 requires more than double the bandwidth of 1080p/24. If the spec sheet for the project says it takes 1080p/60, then that's a possible problem. High bandwidth requires high frequency, making signal integrity more of a concern.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IncraTL* /forum/post/0
> 
> Yellow
> 
> Hi:
> 
> After reading the discussions concerning the inability of the D2 to support PIP or P by P, I have the following question:
> 
> For my 5.2 HT, (2 subs, zone 1) plus 2.1, (zone2, 1 sub), I had planned to purchase a NEC PX-50XR6, (w/ PIP features). If I have OTA reception and DVR, no cable nor satellite, could I still realize PIP from the plasma, (through the D2)?



Incra,

I suppose the question is what's the processing path for your OTA reception? If it is entirely inside the NEC -- using a tuner built-in to the NEC -- and if the NEC's PIP feature allows you to PIP an OTA source with an external source, then you are good to go. The Anthem would never see the OTA video. It would just see the DVR video. Meanwhile the NEC would have no way to distinguish that the external video it was PIPing with its own OTA video had gone through the Anthem.


On the other hand, this means you will get no advantage from the Anthem for your OTA viewing.


Keep in mind while sorting this out, that it is trivial to send audio and video by different processing paths. So your OTA video may stay entirely within the NEC while the audio for OTA viewing comes out the NEC and goes through the Anthem on the way to your speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a Anthem D2/AVM-50 feeding an Optoma HD70, by chance? I picked up the DLP projector this evening for game nights with the buddies and I've read elsewhere on the forum that the projector accepts 1080p/60 (though it scales it back down to 720p/60). This was attractive to me as I could keep my Anthem's scaler at 1080p/60 and feed my 1080p tv and my 720p PJ at the same time, without toggling resolutions.
> 
> 
> However, I can't get the PJ to accept 1080p/60. It accepts 1080p/24, 1080p/25, and 1080p/30 with stuttering, but it can't find the signal on 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> Ok, with that said, I'm temporarily using (until my HDMI cable arrives next week) a DVI-DVI cable with an DVI->HDMI adapter at each end. Could this possibly be my problem? Should I mess with the Anthem's frame lock properties or something instead?



Nathan,

You mean you are driving both displays at the same time? How are you splitting the Anthem's HDMI output?


Using a DVI-DVI cable with DVI-HDMI adapters at each end is, theoretically, IDENTICAL to using an HDMI cable -- even to the extent of being able to pass digital audio over it!


However each connector to connector interface is a source of potential signal degradation. And as you may already be aware from your 1080p experience with your other display, not all manufacturers bother to either engineer or test their HDMI or DVI cables for the high bandwidth required by 1080p/60Hz. So you could be losing due to the DVI cable itself, or due to the combo of the DVI cable and the pair of adapters.


The fact that you can get the lower bandwidth signals to work suggests to me that you are having cable quality, or length, problems at 1080p/60Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTfanatic4life* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Could you please expand on this?
> 
> 
> I understand there isn't much software currently supporting more than 5.1 LPCM tracks, however, at which time we see more titles including additional tracks, encoded with Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD, what are D1-HD/D2 owners going to do? As it stands right now, we have no ability to work with more than 5.1 LPCM channels via HDMI.
> 
> 
> This has me concerned, albeit, I'm not sure how concerned I should really be, or if I should assume at which time this becomes a bigger issue Anthem will be able to upgrade the unit accordingly.
> 
> 
> I suppose I assumed a flagship product such as this would have no trouble working with these new high-def audio formats through some kind of upgrade, and I'm a little surprised to find out it doesn't! Well, not 100% support anyways. More over, if my reading is correct (may be wrong here); some receivers currently exist or are on the horizon that accept 7.1 LPCM, costing thousands of dollars less than the D1-HD/D2! Granted, they won't have the video processing, but let's stick with the audio side of things; they can do 7.1!
> 
> 
> What are peoples take on this limitation of the D1-HD/D2? Reason for concern, or not? Facing a pending upgrade to my D1 in order to get HDMI, I wonder if I should be instead considering a different pre-pro that's more future friendly.
> 
> 
> Aside from this 5.1 LPCM limitation, I love the D1; a beautiful and remarkable sounding piece of consumer electronics.
> 
> 
> Cheers.



Although technically interesting, real-world commercial film mixes above 5.1 are just not the norm, and, in my opinion, are not distinguishable from the "invented" rear surround information that a well designed device like the Anthem can produce when asked to drive 7.1 setups from a 5.1 source.


This assessment works for most commercial movies, but does *NOT* work for either games or for movies that have an exceptionally aggressive, discrete rear track (either 6.1 or 7.1) created largely as a gimmick.


Now, that said, this is my personal opinion. FILM MIXER, being in the industry, might be able to provide some much needed expertise here.

--Bob


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot, I really appreciate the advice!
> 
> 
> I'll leave it hooked via the balanced connection.
> 
> 
> Previously, I was using my Mac Mini as a transport and I am very happy with the Transporter finding its way into my home, it as an incredible sounding piece of equipment.
> 
> 
> I hope others on this forum who listen to a lot of music, give the Transporter a whirl. I'm sure they will be as pleased as we are.
> 
> 
> The free squeezebox found itself in my wifes bathroom, and she loves it.
> 
> 
> Disclaimer: I don't work for slimdevices or work in the audio/video field, just very pleased with their product and spreading the word of a not to well known product/technology.
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



Mark, How are you streaming audio to your Transporter and SlimServer?

Have you tried and compared analog/digital to your D2?

What main speakers are you using?


dc

btw, nice Avatar


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nathan,
> 
> You mean you are driving both displays at the same time? How are you splitting the Anthem's HDMI output?
> 
> 
> Using a DVI-DVI cable with DVI-HDMI adapters at each end is, theoretically, IDENTICAL to using an HDMI cable -- even to the extent of being able to pass digital audio over it!
> 
> 
> However each connector to connector interface is a source of potential signal degradation. And as you may already be aware from your 1080p experience with your other display, not all manufacturers bother to either engineer or test their HDMI or DVI cables for the high bandwidth required by 1080p/60Hz. So you could be losing due to the DVI cable itself, or due to the combo of the DVI cable and the pair of adapters.
> 
> 
> The fact that you can get the lower bandwidth signals to work suggests to me that you are having cable quality, or length, problems at 1080p/60Hz.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I tend to agree with your thoughts. I think I'm having a cable quality issue here-- especially with the number of adapters I have going on between the splitter and the PJ. I'll see what happens when my long Monoprice cable arrives.


For what it's worth, I'm using the 2-port Gefen HDMI splitter (EXT-HDMI-142).


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Although technically interesting, real-world commercial film mixes above 5.1 are just not the norm, and, in my opinion, are not distinguishable from the "invented" rear surround information that a well designed device like the Anthem can produce when asked to drive 7.1 setups from a 5.1 source.
> 
> 
> This assessment works for most commercial movies, but does *NOT* work for either games or for movies that have an exceptionally aggressive, discrete rear track (either 6.1 or 7.1) created largely as a gimmick.
> 
> 
> Now, that said, this is my personal opinion. FILM MIXER, being in the industry, might be able to provide some much needed expertise here.
> 
> --Bob



The only difference between an acutal encoded EX or ES track and a L C R surround created from DPLIIx style logic decoding is that the specialized matrix encoders for EX/ES allow you to have a mono signal in the LS and RS at the same time that doesn't collapse into the CS upon decode... I don't know _exactly_ how they do this, but it works.....


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For what it's worth, I'm using the 2-port Gefen HDMI splitter (EXT-HDMI-142).



I have had many problems with Gefen splitters and switches. They say they are rated at 1080p but I have always needed to find a different manufacturer to actually meet the 1080p claims. (much better luck with PureLink and Zektor)


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think 1/3 is when they will be back from vacation...
> 
> 
> Although I would be surprised to see any new products at CES, I am sure that is their priority for now...



I just picked up my avm 50 and matching anthem amp, tried to install it to my Optoma HD 7100 projector through a hdmi to dvi connection, along with my directv hd dvr 20 box and my fantastic hd dvd 2a from Toshiba, all hdmi. After 2 days with tech support, redownloading and reinstalling 1.11, I have a very expensive doorstop!

It would work on occassion, power down then up, and no go. It would recognize the signal, but open pink (magenta, purple?), shake, go blue, shake and go back pinkish, regardless of resolution. Picture would be showing so signal received, but colors all pinkish. I was beginning to think the canadians were commies







. The setup sceen was pinkish with yellow lettering, not white. Took the doorstop to the dealer and worked great on a straight hdmi connection, they didn't have a dvi for replication.

New release has a totally unknown eta. Anthem should be sued for knowingly selling expensive product that does not work with dvi, without at least some sort of public disclosure. Not sure what I'll do next, maybe offer to be a beta for 1.12, if the indicate they think they understand and have at least tried to address the problem. Never got to audio, oh well, back to optical. Might buy the optoma HD3000 gennum scaler and a separate hdmi prepro, especially one that, unlike the avm50, will play phono without a separate preamp!

When will I be happy again? the lament of dvi connected anthem customers.


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jose_L* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob Pariseau, & everyone ..
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply's..
> 
> 
> I checked the manual for the rptv, it does say that it has a HDCP compliant DVI input..
> 
> 
> So I could use a hdmi > DVI cable...
> 
> 
> But setting the LD (svideo) & Panasonic DVD (component) both to 480i what would the avm50 do ? upconvert to 1080i or 480p ??
> 
> 
> Thank you for your time,,
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Jose




I would not, repeat, not, at this time buy the avm 50 in a hdmi to dvi configuration. DON'T ROLL THE DICE! They simply do not work properly. It is a known problem, which I just endured and would not wish on anyone.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would not, repeat, not, at this time buy the avm 50 in a hdmi to dvi configuration. DON'T ROLL THE DICE! They simply do not work properly. It is a known problem, which I just endured and would not wish on anyone.



Not to minimize your frustration, but it is not as simple as saying DVI doesn't work. I'm using HDMI to DVI from my D2 to my Fujitsu plasma at 1360 x 768p. DRHANKZ and LEVESQUE are using 1080p/48Hz via DVI into their Ruby projectors. And there are others here as well who have reported success with V1.11 software in DVI configurations.


So there's something more complicated going on here.


----------------------------------


The shocking pink imaging is symptomatic of a mismatch in "color format". Your DVI projector likely wants RGB format (since that's the default for DVI), which you can specify in the Anthem's Setup/Video Output menu. If for whatever reason the Anthem is sending YCbCr instead, then you get that type of coloration (i.e., the "Y" gray scale signal is interpreted as Red).


You should probably set "RGB" color format explicitly in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu rather than depending upon the "Auto" setting.


--------------------------------


The next thing I'd suggest is that you unplug everything from the Anthem, move it closer to the projector, and try a *SHORT* HDMI to DVI cable and see if that works reliably. Use the Anthem's Setup screen and the test pattern charts in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) to test this without needing any source device hooked up.


Keep in mind that you may need to try both settings of HDMI Sync in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu to find the one that gives you a good signal.


If this works at the output resolution you want to use, then that suggests a cable problem. For a given quality of cable, the reliable length is shorter for an HDMI to DVI connection than for an HDMI to HDMI connection.


If it still doesn't work, and you are trying to use 1080i output resolution, then you may indeed have the 1080i bug that Anthem is supposedly going to fix soon. But again, that is not a DVI specific problem.


I don't know what else you may have already tried with Anthem tech support, but these are the first two things I'd suggest.

--Bob


----------



## Nevr2Big

Just a question to mull over while I wait for the reports from CES to start trickling in and spawning a host of new threads:


When playing a SD DVD, would the picture be best if :


a) SD DVD played in Oppo, output at 480i over HDMI to D2 then to proj;

OR

b) SD DVD played in Pioneer HD1 player then output at 1080i (?1080p) to D2 and then to proj ???


Thanks


----------



## LEVESQUE

buyrightlow


The Optoma HD 7100 is well known to have problems with long DVI-DVI and HDMI-DVI cables. For example, the Audioholics review of your projector is talking about: "*Trouble syncing* with longer DVI and HDMI cables"...


How long is your cable, and what brand it is? Since your projector is known for having problems with low quality, or too long cables, you should definitely try a different cable from a good brand.



"Took the doorstop to the dealer and worked great on a straight hdmi connection, they didn't have a dvi for replication."


What brand of cable, and what was the lenght? Same source exactly? Shorter cable, different brand? And more important, were they using the same projector? If not, then the problem is really pointing in the direction of your Optoma projector, or the cable you're using with it...


I got good results using the Ultralink HDMI HD Pro and Nordost Wyrewizard HDMI cables, and also the Ultralink HDMI to DVI cable. Monoprice and RAM cables where having problems with 1080p. I know people think that a cable is a cable, but just wait for HDMI 1.3 with 3 times the bandwidth... it will get really ugly...


Secrets are now even doing testing and a shoot-out of HDMI cables for a reason... 1080p is NOT working with all the HDMI cables out there, so we need to test them...


So just try a shorter and a better quality cable just to be sure, since alot of users in this thread solve alot of their problems by using a better video cable.


Also, Optoma projectors are also known for having problems with alot of different scalers and players. People are having alot of problems with Optoma projectors over HDMI and DVI. So the problem can also be your projector, and not the Anthem.


And, like always, Optoma won't move a finger to help you (no firmware update...), and Anthem will break a leg just trying to solve Optoma's problems... And you come here with an angry tone and attacking Anthem, while at least THEY are trying to help you solve a problem alot of Optoma's owners are having with alot of their projectors...


So Optoma took your money and won't do anything to help you and fix their bad implementation and coding. Anthem will try to solve that Optoma's problem for you.


----------



## rudolpht

With regards to HDMI to DVI I'm a pretty happy camper with the JVC HD2K DVI projector, but along with dropped audio on switching HDMI sources I'm getting an increasing number of issues switching sources. I have noticed that switching sometimes puts the Anthem into a mode where it changes the output res, creating an out of bounds condition in my projector which requires a , yes reboot of the Anthem, exacerbated by a Zone 2 being on, I have to shut off all the zones to get a real power cycle. .


Folks may remember I'm an Ultralink HD platinum HDMI cable lover. From experience dropping just one grade to an HDMI-DVI cable I have experienced problems. I always use (even DVI to DVI) the HDMI Ultralink HD Platinum HDMI cable and Ultralink HDMI-DVI adapters. It's just a better, more robust solution. Why? I have no idea, but this one was learned on too many trial & error occasions.


----------



## HTfanatic4life




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Although technically interesting, real-world commercial film mixes above 5.1 are just not the norm, and, in my opinion, are not distinguishable from the "invented" rear surround information that a well designed device like the Anthem can produce when asked to drive 7.1 setups from a 5.1 source.
> 
> 
> This assessment works for most commercial movies, but does *NOT* work for either games or for movies that have an exceptionally aggressive, discrete rear track (either 6.1 or 7.1) created largely as a gimmick.
> 
> 
> Now, that said, this is my personal opinion. FILM MIXER, being in the industry, might be able to provide some much needed expertise here.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The only difference between an acutal encoded EX or ES track and a L C R surround created from DPLIIx style logic decoding is that the specialized matrix encoders for EX/ES allow you to have a mono signal in the LS and RS at the same time that doesn't collapse into the CS upon decode... I don't know _exactly_ how they do this, but it works.....
Click to expand...


Thanks guys, much appreciated.


Cheers.


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> the specialized matrix encoders for EX/ES allow you to have a mono signal in the LS and RS at the same time that doesn't collapse into the CS upon decode... I don't know _exactly_ how they do this, but it works.....



During EX encoding, the L/R surround channels are given a small phase shift relative to each other (+/- 45 degrees), and _then_ the surround-back information is mixed in.


Since the EX decoder is looking for correlated (in-phase) mono sounds, it only extracts the surround-back info. Other mono sounds are decorrelated (made slightly out of phase during encoding), so the decoding circuit doesn't see them and those mono sounds end up remaining in the L/R surround channels.


Non-EX soundtracks never went through this encoding trick, so all their mono surround content ends up being extracted and sent to the rear speakers. But that's where those sounds would have phantom imaged anyway.


Sanjay


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not to minimize your frustration, but it is not as simple as saying DVI doesn't work. I'm using HDMI to DVI from my D2 to my Fujitsu plasma at 1360 x 768p. DRHANKZ and LEVESQUE are using 1080p/48Hz via DVI into their Ruby projectors. And there are others here as well who have reported success with V1.11 software in DVI configurations.
> 
> 
> So there's something more complicated going on here.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> The shocking pink imaging is symptomatic of a mismatch in "color format". Your DVI projector likely wants RGB format (since that's the default for DVI), which you can specify in the Anthem's Setup/Video Output menu. If for whatever reason the Anthem is sending YCbCr instead, then you get that type of coloration (i.e., the "Y" gray scale signal is interpreted as Red).
> 
> 
> You should probably set "RGB" color format explicitly in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu rather than depending upon the "Auto" setting.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------
> 
> 
> The next thing I'd suggest is that you unplug everything from the Anthem, move it closer to the projector, and try a *SHORT* HDMI to DVI cable and see if that works reliably. Use the Anthem's Setup screen and the test pattern charts in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) to test this without needing any source device hooked up.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that you may need to try both settings of HDMI Sync in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu to find the one that gives you a good signal.
> 
> 
> If this works at the output resolution you want to use, then that suggests a cable problem. For a given quality of cable, the reliable length is shorter for an HDMI to DVI connection than for an HDMI to HDMI connection.
> 
> 
> If it still doesn't work, and you are trying to use 1080i output resolution, then you may indeed have the 1080i bug that Anthem is supposedly going to fix soon. But again, that is not a DVI specific problem.
> 
> 
> I don't know what else you may have already tried with Anthem tech support, but these are the first two things I'd suggest.
> 
> --Bob



I have a 12 foot cable run, that can't be it. I will try your other suggestions and see if it helps this doorstop!


----------



## Unclejeff

I have had a Transporter for over a month and I also love it. Although I have yet to purchase the D2, I would like to ditto the suggestion that you try alternative digital outputs. I have tried toslink, coax, balanced and SP/diff between my Transporter and my Audio Aero Capitole and I also like the sound of the SP/diff over even balanced.


There is a thread here at AVSFORUM called "high-end music player' in the 20,000+ catagory specifically on the Transporter. It makes for a nice visit.


----------



## Pride9

Is there a link to Ultralink cables or can someone provide one, thanks so much.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a 12 foot cable run, that can't be it. I will try your other suggestions and see if it helps this doorstop!



With that kind of attitude I wonder if you will get any help. I know you are frustrated but do you know the gauge or brand of the cable? Also if you do not have your output data format set to RGB you will have symptoms very similar to what you describe. It is menu item 8e. I've been using a 15ft DVI cable since day one without issue.


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not to minimize your frustration, but it is not as simple as saying DVI doesn't work. I'm using HDMI to DVI from my D2 to my Fujitsu plasma at 1360 x 768p. DRHANKZ and LEVESQUE are using 1080p/48Hz via DVI into their Ruby projectors. And there are others here as well who have reported success with V1.11 software in DVI configurations.
> 
> 
> So there's something more complicated going on here.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> The shocking pink imaging is symptomatic of a mismatch in "color format". Your DVI projector likely wants RGB format (since that's the default for DVI), which you can specify in the Anthem's Setup/Video Output menu. If for whatever reason the Anthem is sending YCbCr instead, then you get that type of coloration (i.e., the "Y" gray scale signal is interpreted as Red).
> 
> 
> You should probably set "RGB" color format explicitly in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu rather than depending upon the "Auto" setting.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------
> 
> 
> The next thing I'd suggest is that you unplug everything from the Anthem, move it closer to the projector, and try a *SHORT* HDMI to DVI cable and see if that works reliably. Use the Anthem's Setup screen and the test pattern charts in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) to test this without needing any source device hooked up.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that you may need to try both settings of HDMI Sync in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu to find the one that gives you a good signal.
> 
> 
> If this works at the output resolution you want to use, then that suggests a cable problem. For a given quality of cable, the reliable length is shorter for an HDMI to DVI connection than for an HDMI to HDMI connection.
> 
> 
> If it still doesn't work, and you are trying to use 1080i output resolution, then you may indeed have the 1080i bug that Anthem is supposedly going to fix soon. But again, that is not a DVI specific problem.
> 
> 
> I don't know what else you may have already tried with Anthem tech support, but these are the first two things I'd suggest.
> 
> --Bob




At Anthems suggestion I redownloaded the software one more time. I got, one time, a message that flashes on the avm50 display-- need hdcp monitor. It went by fast, but I think that's what it said and now it can no longer even find my toshiba hd dvd through hdmi connection. When turned off and on, that message doesn't reappear, instead I got, one time, "power interrupted check local time", but still not recognizing the player through the hdmi connection. It solved the pink thing though, now I get absolutely nothing! I can't even get the setup menu to display anymore!



One more thing, I disconnected the player and went direct from anthem to projector, still nothing after entering setup, though when I shut down, the projector for a fleeting moment did recognize an image, in pinkish, a split second before close. Nothing on start up. I've tried different cables to rule cable problems out as well.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> At Anthems suggestion I redownloaded the software one more time. I got, one time, a message that flashes on the avm50 display-- need hdcp monitor. It went by fast, but I think that's what it said and now it can no longer even find my toshiba hd dvd through hdmi connection. When turned off and on, that message doesn't reappear, instead I got, one time, "power interrupted check local time", but still not recognizing the player through the hdmi connection. It solved the pink thing though, now I get absolutely nothing! I can't even get the setup menu to display anymore!



You must have had something plugged in to the HDMI ports, namely your display, when you performed the upgrade. The best practice is to power off all equipment connected to the D2, remove all HDMI/DVI connections from the D2, then perform the software install, then reconnect. Then, check setting 8e as mentioned and make sure you are on RGB output.


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You must have had something plugged in to the HDMI ports, namely your display, when you performed the upgrade. The best practice is to power off all equipment connected to the D2, remove all HDMI/DVI connections from the D2, then perform the software install, then reconnect. Then, check setting 8e as mentioned and make sure you are on RGB output.



Nothing except the cables to the computer and power were attached when upgrading, which, at least on screen, seemed to go fine, albeit, I now am worse off than before the download.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nothing except the cables to the computer and power were attached when upgrading, which, at least on screen, seemed to go fine, albeit, I now am worse off than before the download.



Have you gone into the Setup menu for Sources and made sure that the DVD player that you're having problems with is indeed set on the D2 Source menu to accept via HDMI, etc.? Also, make sure you are DVD, and not DVD2 or DVD3 (the new 'virtual' inputs made possible in 1.1x). When you install new software to a D2, the old settings are wiped away, so even if you set these things before, they will not be there post-install. To avoid the headache of this, Anthem provides the Save User Settings and Save Installer Settings, then you can Reload your settings after install. Since you haven't yet reached a good baseline of performance from your whole setup, the backups/restores are probably not losing you much right now! But after you get a good solid baseline of settings that work for you, I would HIGHLY recommend you Save those settings, so future upgrades go smoother for you.


All of this assumes there are basic fixes to your problems, and not actual hardware issues which none of this maneuvering will fix.


Have faith though, this product is easily the best A/V piece of equipment I have ever owned, and the next one behind it ain't even close. I can think of several better ways to keep doors open than with my precious D2 


-Brian


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> buyrightlow
> 
> 
> The Optoma HD 7100 is well known to have problems with long DVI-DVI and HDMI-DVI cables. For example, the Audioholics review of your projector is talking about: "*Trouble syncing* with longer DVI and HDMI cables"...
> 
> 
> How long is your cable, and what brand it is? Since your projector is known for having problems with low quality, or too long cables, you should definitely try a different cable from a good brand.
> 
> 
> 
> "Took the doorstop to the dealer and worked great on a straight hdmi connection, they didn't have a dvi for replication."
> 
> 
> What brand of cable, and what was the lenght? Same source exactly? Shorter cable, different brand? And more important, were they using the same projector? If not, then the problem is really pointing in the direction of your Optoma projector, or the cable you're using with it...
> 
> 
> I got good results using the Ultralink HDMI HD Pro and Nordost Wyrewizard HDMI cables, and also the Ultralink HDMI to DVI cable. Monoprice and RAM cables where having problems with 1080p. I know people think that a cable is a cable, but just wait for HDMI 1.3 with 3 times the bandwidth... it will get really ugly...
> 
> 
> Secrets are now even doing testing and a shoot-out of HDMI cables for a reason... 1080p is NOT working with all the HDMI cables out there, so we need to test them...
> 
> 
> So just try a shorter and a better quality cable just to be sure, since alot of users in this thread solve alot of their problems by using a better video cable.
> 
> 
> Also, Optoma projectors are also known for having problems with alot of different scalers and players. People are having alot of problems with Optoma projectors over HDMI and DVI. So the problem can also be your projector, and not the Anthem.
> 
> 
> And, like always, Optoma won't move a finger to help you (no firmware update...), and Anthem will break a leg just trying to solve Optoma's problems... And you come here with an angry tone and attacking Anthem, while at least THEY are trying to help you solve a problem alot of Optoma's owners are having with alot of their projectors...
> 
> 
> So Optoma took your money and won't do anything to help you and fix their bad implementation and coding. Anthem will try to solve that Optoma's problem for you.



The cable is 12' audioquest hdmi, with a monster hdmi/dvi adapter. I did order a hdmi/dvi cable, sans adapter and am awaiting shipment.

Optoma is a MAJOR manufacturer of projectors, which was working just great. Anthem, at a higher price point, knowing they need to hook up to a major, must release product that will work. This is a known PROBLEM at Anthem and I will not forgive them for selling product without warning, with known issues when connecting to common equipment. It is not Optoma's responsibility to be compatible with every vendor that is selling add-ons to their equipment, that is absolutely the add-ons responsibility. We disagree on this point.


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With that kind of attitude I wonder if you will get any help. I know you are frustrated but do you know the gauge or brand of the cable? Also if you do not have your output data format set to RGB you will have symptoms very similar to what you describe. It is menu item 8e. I've been using a 15ft DVI cable since day one without issue.



I can no longer get to setup since reinstalling the software. A 12' audioquest, with dvi monster adapterwhich has been working just fine.

As to attitude, after spending 15+ hours with the doorstop and going from bad to worse, I think I'm being as kind as possible. Last I checked, my time has some value. I've now invested more time at my rate then the machine costs!


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Optoma is a MAJOR manufacturer of projectors, which was working just great.



BTW, Optoma is a much smaller company then the Paradigm/Anthem group.


Also, Audioholics and other reviewers did say your projector is having problems syncing with alot of other sources and scalers... your projector is known to be flaky...


So you have your facts backwards...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is not Optoma's responsibility to be compatible with every vendor that is selling add-ons to their equipment, that is absolutely the add-ons responsibility.



You are totally wrong here. It is their responsability. It's the Optoma implementation that is flaky and well known to be with alot of other projectors like the Hxx serie... Just try to ask them for a firmware upgrade to fix THEIR problems... Good luck! They won't even answer your e-mails probably...


And you know it well. That's why you're come in here with that tone... because you know pretty well that Optoma won't move a finger for you (when it's clearly them causing the problem...), and that Anthem will try EVERYTHING possible to try to help you.


You are a clever guy...











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is a known PROBLEM at Anthem and I will not forgive them for selling product without warning, with known issues when connecting to common equipment.



Say that to all the Pioneer Elite, Denon and Onkyo receivers owners that can't even dream of a firmware upgrade to solve all the HDCP problems plaguing ALL those popular receivers...


At least Anthem are fixing OTHER's manufacturers problems since the first day.


----------



## buyrightlow

This is absolutely an Anthem problem. Why did the doorstop, prior to redownloading the software, get recognized on the Optoma, albeit wrongly, when after download it isn't even being recognized. That is a software problem that Anthem created and has not solved, is aware of, and continues to sell into the market knowing of. Inexcusable. I don't give credit to manufacturers that try to fix problems they create, that's called doing the necessary and right thing, nothing special. What's unusual is selling a product that is known to fail in a significant number of installations, without warning.


----------



## bluemark81

Well....this conversation seems too good to not provide some comments.


As some of you are aware, I am a recent owner of an Anthem AVM50 (Nov 2006) which I too have had my share of problems getting things up and running properly. I am even still experiencing some problems. However, these problems are all being taken care of very promptly by Anthem and through this forum with the likes of Bob Pariseau and Levesque.


I purchased the Anthem knowing full well that it is a very complex unit with sophisticated software on board. That being said, I was prepared to suffer some growing pains knowing that I was acquiring one of the most advanced, if not the most advanced pre/pro's on the market with the exception of the D2.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------


Buyrightnow:


I know it can be frustrating at times, but I'm sure if you have some patience, the knowledgeable people within this forum and Anthem will get all your issues resolved soon enough and you will soon be very pleased with your purchase.


I can also guarantee you, that after owning several of the big brand name receivers over the years, that you will not get service from them that you will from Anthem.


I wish you the best of luck.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mark, How are you streaming audio to your Transporter and SlimServer?
> 
> Have you tried and compared analog/digital to your D2?
> 
> What main speakers are you using?
> 
> 
> dc
> 
> btw, nice Avatar



I installed Slimserver into my Mac Mini which is integrated with the rest of my gear, and I use an HDMI/DVI connection out to my TV enabling me to use Slimserver looking at my display from the couch.


Currently, the Transporter is connected wireless via Airport express, talking to the Mac mini and accessing two external hard drives.


Since the Transporter and Mac mini are only a couple feet apart, I may hard wire the connection to avoid any possible drop outs (which I have yet to experience).


I have not compared analog/digital to the AVM 50. I assumed the Transporters DAC and world clock would be bypassed going digital out of the Transporter and these items make up a bulk of the $2000.00 price. However, I'm still learning and don't have a good grasp of the possibilities, or what I'm doing. I will give it a go since you and Unclejeff feel I should try it.


As far as speakers, Jim Salk is finishing up a set of Salk HT 3's for me, and was kind enough to loan me a pair of HT 1's until the HT3' are completed.


You mentioned turning down the analog level control down 9db, are you referring to the menu which enables you to turn the volume down by source? I'm at work now, and cant think of the name of the menu.


Unclejeff, I appreciate the advice and will try the analog/digital switching, and thanks for the heads up on the "high end music player" thread, I didn't know it even exhisted.


Are you referring to the BNC S/PDIF as your preference?


Are all BNC S/PDIF made the same? Another words, does one need to buy a more expensive cable?


Would one of you guys mind providing a link to purchase?


Thanks,


Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is absolutely an Anthem problem. Why did the doorstop, prior to redownloading the software, get recognized on the Optoma, albeit wrongly, when after download it isn't even being recognized. That is a software problem that Anthem created and has not solved, is aware of, and continues to sell into the market knowing of. Inexcusable. I don't give credit to manufacturers that try to fix problems they create, that's called doing the necessary and right thing, nothing special. What's unusual is selling a product that is known to fail in a significant number of installations, without warning.



I agree that Anthem's problematic software installation process is ridiculous. They need to get a handle on this right away, particularly since they are currently shipping product that is going to need an important software fix (the 1080i problem fix) right away.


-------------------------------------------------------------------


That said, there's time to ***** about Anthem later. Let's focus on getting you up and running.


1) Did the latest attempt at installing software run to completion without any error messages? If not, then Anthem is going to have to work with you on getting a good software install. It is pointless to try any further action until that is done. Apparently you already know the most important step of disconnecting HDMI connections and using a PC with a built-in serial port instead of a USB to Serial adapter (to increase the odds of things working right).


2) If the install apparently went to completion without error, did it leave you with an Anthem whose front panel display is working properly? If not then revert to step (1) and ***** to Anthem. If the Anthem's front panel display *IS* working then you can do *ALL* of the Anthem Setup menu stuff using just the front panel display. You don't need a working video connection to your projector.


3) The front panel display will only display one chunk of the Setup menu at a time, but you already know what it is supposed to look like, and the manual shows the order of the lines in each sub-menu, so navigating through the Setup menu using just the front panel display is not that tough.


4) Turn off the Anthem, disconect everything from the Anthem and move it close to your projector. Connect only the power cord and a SHORT DVI cable to your projector -- 6 feet long or less! You may not be aware that DVI connections are only actually engineered to work out to about 10 feet long. Many people make longer connections work, but there's a degree of luck involved in that. Every adapter in the path makes a long connection harder. The DVI end of your connection should be screwed in to the projector. The HDMI end needs to be fully inserted into the Anthem, and it needs to go STRAIGHT IN without any stress pulling or pushing it in any direction. I.e., if you have an adapter at the Anthem end, or if your cable is heavy, you may need to find a way to support the cable so that you aren't levering the HDMI plug in the socket. This is a common problem with HDMI connections. The connector is only a friction fit, so even the weight of the cable can pull it out a bit, and only a little bit of that is enough to make the connection fail.


5) Again, at this point you should have only power and the HDMI video output connected to the Anthem and only power and the DVI input connected to the projector.


6) Turn on the projector. Wait until it has time to get itself running properly -- 10 to 15 seconds should be plenty. Now turn on the Anthem. Wait for it to boot up completely -- again 10 to 15 seconds. We are trying to eliminate any problem due to the two of them trying to handshake before they are both properly awake.


7) Using the Remote control, enter the Anthem Setup menu by pressing and holding the Setup buttong. Using the Anthem's front panel display, scroll down to line 8 -- the Video Output menu and hit Select to enter it. I don't know the limits of your projector, but the idea at this point is to try to keep things as simple as possible, so if your projector will accept a standard 480p signal (DVI doesn't support 480i), then set the Anthem output to 480p. [If your projector won't take 480p then try 720p.] Set Preferred to HDMI, set Color Space to HDTV, set Data Format to RGB, and set HDMI Sync to Normal. Use the Back button to back out of the Video Output menu, use the remote to highlight Yes when asked to confirm these changes, and hit Select again to complete the changes.


8) Do you have a good signal? If so we can proceed with further stuff such as trying again with your longer cable. If not, then we need to diagnose further. Leaving the Anthem set the way it is, try a power cycle of the Anthem and then a power cycle of the projector. If that gets you a signal, then your problem may be the power-on order of the projector and the Anthem. Some projectors insist upon being turned on LAST for example, or they won't connect up.


9) There are two other output settings in the Anthem which may affect the ability of the Anthem and the projector to connect. First, your projector may insist upon the Anthem using the "Extended RGB" Data Format. Second your projector may require you to set the HDMI Sync setting in the Anthem to Inverted. My Fujitsu, for example, works with normal "RGB" but insists upon Sync being Inverted. There are only a few combinations to try, so it is pretty quick to run through them. Again, do this at the lowest resolution your projector is spec'ed to accept (usually 480p) as this puts the minimum demand on the DVI connection. NOTE: When you get things working, you may find the correct Sync setting for your desired, higher resolution is different from the one that works at 480p.


10) If you still do not have a good signal then the two remaining possibilities are that the Anthem is not working correctly or the DVI input in your projector is not working correctly. I don't know the Optima projectors, although there are certainly plenty of projectors out there with problems, but let's leave that for later.


11) If the Anthem is faulty there is only one other thing you can do on your own pending a new unit or new software for this unit, and that is to Restore Factory Defaults and try again. You do that using the Setup menu (via the Front Panel display) by scrolling to line 12 -- Save Restore Settings. Enter that sub-menu, scroll down to Reload Factory Defaults, Select that, and confirm that you want to do that.


12) When the Reload completes, go back into the Anthem's Setup / Video Output, re-establish the settings I gave you above, and try again.


13) If that still doesn't work, the last thing to try is to go into the Optima's own setup stuff and double check how its DVI input is configured. You are looking for three things. First you are looking for any setting that limits the resolutions it is willing to accept -- or a setting that forces interlaces vs. progressive input. Second you are looking for a setting that configures the DVI input for a DVD player or set top box, i.e., a home theater source, as opposed to a computer or PC source. Third you are looking for a setting that controls the data format coming over the DVI input -- what you want is RGB. Since I don't know the Optima, I don't know which of these you'll find, but these are the possible setting types in the Optima that might make it reject a connection from the Anthem.


----------------------------------------------------------


Please do understand that in the end the problem here may be in your projector. I know that's not what you want to hear, but you can't reject the possibility out of hand. Not all DVI devices, and for that matter not all HDMI devices, are properly engineered. There's only so much a box like the Anthem can do in such cases.


All we can do is help you narrow down the possibilities here. You know your Anthem works into an HDMI display so you know the video board and HDMI output connector of your Anthem were functioning correctly at that point.


The software installs you've done since (at Anthem's request) MAY have left the Anthem non-functional, but let's not jump to that conclusion yet.


Try the steps listed above and let's see where we are.

--Bob


----------



## Gregg Bone

I finally decided on my new HT system:


Toshiba HD-A2

Anthem D2

Samsung LNS-5296D (52" 1080P LCD)

Mac HTPC - this is where I'll get my Blueray source from, as well as HD DVR

Sunfire 200-7

TBI Magellan VI Sub

Magnepan MG III fronts

Sunfire Cinema Ribbon center and surrounds


Eveything is installed but not working right.


I get lots of handshake issues between the A2 and the D2. Always resolvable by powering off and turing on the D2 first, then the A2. Once it required unplugging the cord on the A2, soft power cycle did not work. Mostly this shows up by losing either the audio or the video completely, but I've also seen random video snow over the whole screen, once seen the upper left corner of the 1080P signal scaled up enormously on the display, and once the Anthem power up display showed up, and would not go away.


There is a bug in the D2 (I'm working on it already with Anthem) handshaking with the Mac. The D2 does not do the correct thing with the DVI EDID information, and so the Mac will not believe the D2 exists, so cannot make a connection.


I have confirmed this with a Gefen DVI detective. If I have the Gefen read and store the EDID information from the Samsung, then insert the Gefen between the Mac and the D2, everything works (well, sort of). The Mac thinks it's connected to the Samsung rather than the D2, so I can only select resolutions supported by the Samsung that also work with the D2. But everything I want is, so it's fine - but the D2 should do this right without the Gefen box helping. I'd think this is what the HDMI repeater yes/no control should be faking, but neither position works connected directly.


When I say sort of - though in the showroom when I connected the Mac directly to the Samsung I got great 1:1 pixel matching at 1080P, at home I get either an overscanned image (edge menus lost) or with the Mac video driver set to overscan disabled a scaled down image (black border about 40 pixels all around). If I use the D2 to scale the image up (zoom) I can fill the screen (except for 3 pixels as I would need a non-integer zoom to fit exactly) all that scaling up (by the D2) and back down (by the Samsung) does bad things to the image edge quality.


I still have lots of things to tweak


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a question to mull over while I wait for the reports from CES to start trickling in and spawning a host of new threads:
> 
> 
> When playing a SD DVD, would the picture be best if :
> 
> 
> a) SD DVD played in Oppo, output at 480i over HDMI to D2 then to proj;
> 
> OR
> 
> b) SD DVD played in Pioneer HD1 player then output at 1080i (?1080p) to D2 and then to proj ???
> 
> 
> Thanks



Your best bet is to send 480i to the D2 from a player known to do HDMI 480i output correctly -- such as the Oppo 970.


It is highly unlikely the de-interlacing and scaling in the HD1 is as good as what's found in the D2.


Now DRHANKZ ran a test where he compared scaled standard DVD from the new Toshiba A2 to 480i standard DVD ouput from the new Pioneer HD1 (he doesn't have an Oppo) and he preferred what the A2 produced compared to what the Anthem D2 did with the output from the Pioneer. But it has still not been certified by people who know how to test this stuff that the HDMI 480i output for standard DVDs from the Pioneer HD1 is technically correct. As a long time owner of Pioneer players I can tell you that they have a history of doing some peculiar stuff with HDMI 480i output that requires careful setting changes in the player to correct.


All that said, however, it takes something of a practiced eye to see de-interlacing and scaling defects. Of course the more you get used to spotting them the more annoying they get, but there's a certain "ignorance is bliss" quality to this video stuff.


I use a Pioneer 59avi player right now at HDMI 480i -- with setting changes needed to make it work right. I'll replace it with an HD-DVD or Blue Ray player only when I'm sure the new player handles legacy formats as well as the old player does -- which includes HDMI 480i output or SD DVDs of course. So far I've seen no test results that I trust indicating any of the current crop of HD-DVD or Blue Ray players meet that challenge. It will happen eventually of course. Perhaps even Oppo will do it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gregg Bone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I finally decided on my new HT system:
> 
> 
> Toshiba HD-A2
> 
> Anthem D2
> 
> Samsung LNS-5296D (52" 1080P LCD)
> 
> Mac HTPC - this is where I'll get my Blueray source from, as well as HD DVR
> 
> Sunfire 200-7
> 
> TBI Magellan VI Sub
> 
> Magnepan MG III fronts
> 
> Sunfire Cinema Ribbon center and surrounds
> 
> 
> Eveything is installed but not working right.
> 
> 
> I get lots of handshake issues between the A2 and the D2. Always resolvable by powering off and turing on the D2 first, then the A2. Once it required unplugging the cord on the A2, soft power cycle did not work. Mostly this shows up by losing either the audio or the video completely, but I've also seen random video snow over the whole screen, once seen the upper left corner of the 1080P signal scaled up enormously on the display, and once the Anthem power up display showed up, and would not go away.
> 
> 
> There is a bug in the D2 (I'm working on it already with Anthem) handshaking with the Mac. The D2 does not do the correct thing with the DVI EDID information, and so the Mac will not believe the D2 exists, so cannot make a connection.
> 
> 
> I have confirmed this with a Gefen DVI detective. If I have the Gefen read and store the EDID information from the Samsung, then insert the Gefen between the Mac and the D2, everything works (well, sort of). The Mac thinks it's connected to the Samsung rather than the D2, so I can only select resolutions supported by the Samsung that also work with the D2. But everything I want is, so it's fine - but the D2 should do this right without the Gefen box helping. I'd think this is what the HDMI repeater yes/no control should be faking, but neither position works connected directly.
> 
> 
> When I say sort of - though in the showroom when I connected the Mac directly to the Samsung I got great 1:1 pixel matching at 1080P, at home I get either an overscanned image (edge menus lost) or with the Mac video driver set to overscan disabled a scaled down image (black border about 40 pixels all around). If I use the D2 to scale the image up (zoom) I can fill the screen (except for 3 pixels as I would need a non-integer zoom to fit exactly) all that scaling up (by the D2) and back down (by the Samsung) does bad things to the image edge quality.
> 
> 
> I still have lots of things to tweak



The connection problems at 1080p between the Toshiba A2 player and the D2 sound suspiciously like a cable problem. Not all HDMI cables actually handle the high bandwidth of a 1080p signal properly -- even if they claim to do so. Now the A2 may have its own issues but the first thing you should try here is a high-end, 1080p specific HDMI cable that is pretty short.


I agree that the DVI EDID stuff needs to be sorted out. As I understand it, what is going on with such HTPC setups is that the computer's output resolution is changing at the wrong time and there's a mismatch between it and what the Anthem thinks the EDID info is saying. As you note, Anthem is working on this one.


Your overscan problem sounds suspiciously like you may have accidentally turned on Crop Input / Edges in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) for the Anthem input connected to your HTPC. Check that out.


The Scale Output / Zoom function in the Anthem is something to avoid. Its processing is done after the scaler and so the result is pretty poor. It is really only useful for temporary viewing and for testing certain setups. Instead, try to use the Crop Input / Custom Setting function. It adjusts what portion of the input resolution is actually scaled so the result remains high quality.


If neither of those do the trick for you, then I suspect there is something in the setup you are using through the Gefen Detective that is changing the resolution and timings your display sees. Possibly due to what the Mac side of things is doing in that setup.

--Bob


----------



## buyrightlow

Bob, I really appreciate your good efforts. First of all thank you.

At this point, after 20 hours invested without being able to get any signal recognition out of the machine, I will wait until my new high quality hdmi/dvi cable without adapter gets here early next week and fire it up again and carefully fully your instructions off the anthem display. I had no error messsages on the software install. I must operate 12' away, so even if it works at 6', it's no good. If no signal still, the unit goes back until 1.12 is released. I have no objection to spending hours to setup and tweak the unit, fully expected. A "pro-sumer" should not have to go through what I've been through, just to get signal, without success!

As an aside, do you recommend xlr or rca to connect the MCA50 amp to the AVM50?

I could trade in my hd7100 for a hd81, which is 1080p and full hdmi, thereby avoiding the dvi handshake and getting a better projector to boot. Know anyone that wants a good HD7100







?


----------



## Don O’Brien




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have had many problems with Gefen splitters and switches. They say they are rated at 1080p but I have always needed to find a different manufacturer to actually meet the 1080p claims. (much better luck with PureLink and Zektor)



Do you have part numbers for the Zektor or Purelink HDMI splitters that have worked at 1080p60 without incident? I am reluctant to use Gefen because of prior problems I have had with Gefen DVI and HDMI parts.


Thanks in advance for any assistance. I am looking to drive 2 displays simultaneously with the HDMI output of the D2 and looking for a reliable solution.


----------



## buyrightlow

My new cable is:


These next generation Super High Resolution (SHR) HDMI cables are engineered for superior performance and reliability. Designed for fully transparent operation with single-link bit rates up to 1.65 Gbit/sec., Our SHR cables set a new benchmark for performance and durability.


Main Features:

HDTV resolutions up to 1080p & PC resolutions up to 1920x1200 / 60 Hz

Triple shielded for superior noise immunity

Dual UL ratings (CL2 and AWM20276) & RoHS compliant (green friendly)

Gold plated connectors

22AWG silver-plated copper wires


Specifications:

* This cable allows you to connect a DVI-D display to a source with HDMI display output.

* This cables allows you to connect a HDMI display to a source with DVI-D display output.

* This adapter will ONLY work with a digital display. Analog connections are not supported.

* This adapter will ONLY work with single link connections. Dual link is not supported.

* This adapter will support HDCP.

* If you need to gang cables together for a solution, be sure to use these SHR cables for maximum resolution.


I thought the specs looked real good, especially the 22awg.


----------



## Unclejeff

Mark;


Yes, I prefer the BNC S/PDIF in my set-up. This, even though the tech guys at the Slimdevice open house prefer digital balanced. I am using Dr. Lee's Acoustic Zen S/PDIF cable. I have compared this with AZ coax and tara labs digital balanced. I don't have other cables to compare with the exception of audioquest coax.


Hey folks, you might lighten up on buyrightnow's use of 'door stopper'. I on occasion use the term, 'boat anchor' for the most frustrating of products.


Yes, I still plan to buy a D2. Perhaps, mid-year.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, I really appreciate your good efforts. First of all thank you.
> 
> At this point, after 20 hours invested without being able to get any signal recognition out of the machine, I will wait until my new high quality hdmi/dvi cable without adapter gets here early next week and fire it up again and carefully fully your instructions off the anthem display. I had no error messsages on the software install. I must operate 12' away, so even if it works at 6', it's no good. If no signal still, the unit goes back until 1.12 is released. I have no objection to spending hours to setup and tweak the unit, fully expected. A "pro-sumer" should not have to go through what I've been through, just to get signal, without success!
> 
> As an aside, do you recommend xlr or rca to connect the MCA50 amp to the AVM50?
> 
> I could trade in my hd7100 for a hd81, which is 1080p and full hdmi, thereby avoiding the dvi handshake and getting a better projector to boot. Know anyone that wants a good HD7100
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?



First understand that the short cable test is just to diagnose the problem. If it turns out that your problem is actually due to cable length then there are things we can do to help -- either a better cable or a pair of shorter cables with a powered repeater in the middle. But the short cable test is an essential step.


If the problem is actually in your projector, then I'm not at all sure V1.12 software from Anthem is going to help. By the way, I presume you've done simple tests like running HDMI to DVI direct from your player to the projector, right?


On your last question, if the amp is within 6 feet or so of the AVM-50, my recommendation would be that you just use good quality RCA cables. XLR provides an advantage for rejecting interference for long cable runs and or environments with lots of electrical interference -- which is why pro setups use them.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can no longer get to setup since reinstalling the software. A 12' audioquest, with dvi monster adapterwhich has been working just fine.
> 
> As to attitude, after spending 15+ hours with the doorstop and going from bad to worse, I think I'm being as kind as possible. Last I checked, my time has some value. I've now invested more time at my rate then the machine costs!



Looking at it that way, the only rational thing to do is to cut your losses and move on, wouldn't you say? Just like an investment, if it goes down far enough, you sell. Take it back to your dealer and get something else.


This thread is for solutions. It can be frustrating to buy something and have it not work. Many of us have been there. But ultimately, we are here to find and provide help and information.


If you want to vent your spleen, start a different thread.


----------



## Gregg Bone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The connection problems at 1080p between the Toshiba A2 player and the D2 sound suspiciously like a cable problem. Not all HDMI cables actually handle the high bandwidth of a 1080p signal properly -- even if they claim to do so. Now the A2 may have its own issues but the first thing you should try here is a high-end, 1080p specific HDMI cable that is pretty short.
> 
> 
> I agree that the DVI EDID stuff needs to be sorted out. As I understand it, what is going on with such HTPC setups is that the computer's output resolution is changing at the wrong time and there's a mismatch between it and what the Anthem thinks the EDID info is saying. As you note, Anthem is working on this one.
> 
> 
> Your overscan problem sounds suspiciously like you may have accidentally turned on Crop Input / Edges in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) for the Anthem input connected to your HTPC. Check that out.
> 
> 
> The Scale Output / Zoom function in the Anthem is something to avoid. Its processing is done after the scaler and so the result is pretty poor. It is really only useful for temporary viewing and for testing certain setups. Instead, try to use the Crop Input / Custom Setting function. It adjusts what portion of the input resolution is actually scaled so the result remains high quality.
> 
> 
> If neither of those do the trick for you, then I suspect there is something in the setup you are using through the Gefen Detective that is changing the resolution and timings your display sees. Possibly due to what the Mac side of things is doing in that setup.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks for the reply. I'll add some detail:


1. The Toshiba A2 does not do 1080P, only 1080i, and once I get a valid handshake, everything works great for hours. The problem is there is not a "set output to native disk resolution" setting. So since I want the D2 to scale SD DVD rather than the A2 (though I must point out the A2 is not bad at this, the D2 is just better) I have to enter setup on the A2, change from 1080i to 480i to play a SD DVD, and change back to 1080i to watch a HD HVD. During the change things can go very wrong, causing video or audio loss or corruption. Power cycling always seems to fix these.


This could be a Toshiba A2 problem, but I do have to cycle the D2 to get things working, so at the very least the D2 is not recovering from a possible bad input.


2. I'm using a 2 meter Pure Digital HDMI 1.2a 1080p certified cable. Fairly short, and as I said above, no signal issues once handshake is established. And it's only running 1080i.


3. The overscan problem is Samsung. 1:1 worked in the last version of firmware (what the showroom had), did not work before that, and seems to be broken again in the version I got delivered. I even took my Mac to the showroom and connected it to confirm that it worked there, before I bought the display, but the one that came out of MY box was "newer". Ack! So now I'm trying to fix the Samsung bug with the D2 (wrong place I know). I'll try your suggestions, I agree the zoom does not work well. I also tried setting the Mac driver to overscan, then using "Scale" to shrink it down to all fit on the display, but that did not work at all. I don't see how crop is going to work, as the Mac is putting out a 1080p signal, and I do not want to lose any of the edges. Crop edges is off.


4. The Gefen is only touching the EDID data, and I have this problem if I take the D2 and the Gefen out of the loop and plug the Mac directly into the Samsung, either overscanned (scaled up from 1:1) or black borders (scaled down from 1:1). Really a Samsung problem, and I've posted more detail in the LN-S5296D thread.


I have one other issue, I get occasional pops through the sound system. They particularly happen between scene changes where I'd guess the source is changing from film to video cadence, or back. (commentator narrative shot with camcorder type device to sample of the movie, or back). They do happen other times also. I've tried Muting Max (and the other settings, but though there is difference it does not resolve the pops)


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Don O'Brien* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you have part numbers for the Zektor or Purelink HDMI splitters that have worked at 1080p60 without incident? I am reluctant to use Gefen because of prior problems I have had with Gefen DVI and HDMI parts.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any assistance. I am looking to drive 2 displays simultaneously with the HDMI output of the D2 and looking for a reliable solution.



Don,


The purelink HDMI switcher I have is HDS-41R. (My Zektor's are component & DVI switches) There was supposed to be a newer model that also switched digital audio (optical & component style) in addition to the audio over the HDMI itself for older sources (like my Pio 59DVI) that doesn't carry the audio over the HDMI. With a Pre_amp like the anthem the need for that extra switching is moot.


I actually use the Purelink to switch AFTER the Anthem between the anthem & a couple of Computer sources, all outputting 1080p.


I suggest you give our AVS friends a call or highly recommend as well Kei Clark at Digital Connection. She knows her stuff and will give you the straight line vs trying to sell you on the most expensive option. She has saved me many hours of diagnostic pain & agony on items like this.


Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gregg Bone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I'll add some detail:
> 
> 
> 1. The Toshiba A2 does not do 1080P, only 1080i, and once I get a valid handshake, everything works great for hours. The problem is there is not a "set output to native disk resolution" setting. So since I want the D2 to scale SD DVD rather than the A2 (though I must point out the A2 is not bad at this, the D2 is just better) I have to enter setup on the A2, change from 1080i to 480i to play a SD DVD, and change back to 1080i to watch a HD HVD. During the change things can go very wrong, causing video or audio loss or corruption. Power cycling always seems to fix these.
> 
> 
> This could be a Toshiba A2 problem, but I do have to cycle the D2 to get things working, so at the very least the D2 is not recovering from a possible bad input.



I've seen a similar thing when re-doing the handshake with my Comcast Motorola box when changing from HDTV to SDTV. For some reason it doesn't seem to happen going the other way.


So there's apparently still a type of HDMI confusion which causes the Anthem video circuit to go bonkers. And yes, a brief power cycle of the Anthem is the only way to fix it. However in my case it is so rare as to hardly be an issue. I've been assuming it was because I had not yet upgraded my video OUTPUT cable.


If you are getting it fairly repeatably using the Toshiba A2, then this may be something Anthem can finally track down and eliminate.


-----------------------------------------------------------


I've not had, nor heard of others having, the audio popping you mention. The muting time setting should only affect things when the type of incoming audio changes -- e.g., 2 channel stereo PCM becomes Dolby Digital 5.1 or vice versa.


Are you only getting that from the Toshiba A2?

--Bob


----------



## Gregg Bone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've seen a similar thing when re-doing the handshake with my Comcast Motorola box when changing from HDTV to SDTV. For some reason it doesn't seem to happen going the other way.
> 
> 
> So there's apparently still a type of HDMI confusion which causes the Anthem video circuit to go bonkers. And yes, a brief power cycle of the Anthem is the only way to fix it. However in my case it is so rare as to hardly be an issue. I've been assuming it was because I had not yet upgraded my video OUTPUT cable.
> 
> 
> If you are getting it fairly repeatably using the Toshiba A2, then this may be something Anthem can finally track down and eliminate.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I've not had, nor heard of others having, the audio popping you mention. The muting time setting should only affect things when the type of incoming audio changes -- e.g., 2 channel stereo PCM becomes Dolby Digital 5.1 or vice versa.
> 
> 
> Are you only getting that from the Toshiba A2?
> 
> --Bob



It happens often with the Toshiba HD-A2, maybe 20% of the time I switch. I've heard through the grapevine there is a software upgrade coming for the A2 that will add "Native" to the output resolution selection - but not the update scheduled in 2 weeks, but maybe April.


----


Yes only on the A2 do I get the popings, but that's the only source I have that does HDMI audio. I have 2 TosLink sources, the Mac HTPC and an Apple Airport Express running Airtunes, a 2 ch source from a Roland RD1000 keyboard, and an old VCR for some tapes I have yet to transfer to DVD. Oh yea, I have another TosLink source, the Samsung when watching the off air TV. 72 Digital off air stations, and no way to get the D2 to scale them instead of the scaler in the Samsung without buying an external tuner.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gregg Bone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes only on the A2 do I get the popings, but that's the only source I have that does HDMI audio. I have 2 TosLink sources, the Mac HTPC and an Apple Airport Express running Airtunes, a 2 ch source from a Roland RD1000 keyboard, and an old VCR for some tapes I have yet to transfer to DVD. Oh yea, I have another TosLink source, the Samsung when watching the off air TV. 72 Digital off air stations, and no way to get the D2 to scale them instead of the scaler in the Samsung without buying an external tuner.



And is the popping only when playing standard DVDs on the A2?


When playing standard DVDs there should be a setting to send the undecoded Dolby Digital or DTS bitstream to the Anthem as opposed to the multi-channel PCM you use for playing the HD-DVD discs. Have you experimented with that?

--Bob


----------



## Gregg Bone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And is the popping only when playing standard DVDs on the A2?
> 
> 
> When playing standard DVDs there should be a setting to send the undecoded Dolby Digital or DTS bitstream to the Anthem as opposed to the multi-channel PCM you use for playing the HD-DVD discs. Have you experimented with that?
> 
> --Bob



That is the setting I have selected, "Bitstream", not PCM for SD DVDs. I have not changed it to the only other setting which is 2 channel PCM for SD DVDs.


Gregg


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gregg Bone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is the setting I have selected, "Bitstream", not PCM for SD DVDs. I have not changed it to the only other setting which is 2 channel PCM for SD DVDs.
> 
> 
> Gregg



Very strange. If the Anthem has a problem with this I think we'd have heard from other Toshiba A2 owners by now.


Try something else when you get the chance. Tell the Toshiba A2 to scale your standard DVDs to 1080i or whatever and see if the popping still occurs. I'm thinking the A2 might have a problem with HDMI 480i output.

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mark;
> 
> 
> Yes, I prefer the BNC S/PDIF in my set-up. This, even though the tech guys at the Slimdevice open house prefer digital balanced. I am using Dr. Lee's Acoustic Zen S/PDIF cable. I have compared this with AZ coax and tara labs digital balanced. I don't have other cables to compare with the exception of audioquest coax.
> 
> 
> Hey folks, you might lighten up on buyrightnow's use of 'door stopper'. I on occasion use the term, 'boat anchor' for the most frustrating of products.
> 
> 
> Yes, I still plan to buy a D2. Perhaps, mid-year.



Unclejeff,


This is where I become somewhat confused. Perhaps, my newness to this technology is causing my thinking to become flawed.


If one of the most important feature of the Transporter is it's dac, doesn't using a digital out render this feature useless since the Anthems's dac would be used instead? I thought using the analog balanced out to the pre-amp was the only way to take advantage of the Transporter's dac. Maybe there is more going on within the Transporter than I am aware?


Please advice as I want to be sure I am taking full advantage of what the Transporter offers.


Dreamcatcher, If you can help as well, please do.


EDIT: It appears BNC S/PDIF is not available on my AVM 50, I've never used such a connection, but don't see anything that resembles a connection matching the Transporter, am I wrong? Would the AES/EBU option provide an adequate alternative if BNC S/PDIF is not an option?


Thanks bunches,


Mark


----------



## Unclejeff

Mark, yes this is a bit confusing. I think that the magic of the transporter is the ability to decode both internet and music stored in my G5 Computer. It sounds much better than coming direct from my couputer to my Audio Aero and it also beats the Transporter's 'little brother', the squeezebox when also coupled with my Audio Aero. So, the Transporter does it best with a digital 'out'.


Perhaps someone over at the 'High End Player' thread can shed some light on the subject as we are here departing from the Anthem crowd. The slim device people participate in that thread.


----------



## ensmarcum

This may already be posted but what is the difference between the d2 and avm50 besides the 24/192 sampling and dual dsp engines? are the parts the same? is there a 2000 dollar difference? just a newbie asking silly questions.


----------



## Gregg Bone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mark, yes this is a bit confusing. I think that the magic of the transporter is the ability to decode both internet and music stored in my G5 Computer. It sounds much better than coming direct from my couputer to my Audio Aero and it also beats the Transporter's 'little brother', the squeezebox when also coupled with my Audio Aero. So, the Transporter does it best with a digital 'out'.
> 
> 
> Perhaps someone over at the 'High End Player' thread can shed some light on the subject as we are here departing from the Anthem crowd. The slim device people participate in that thread.



Let me see if I can shed any light. I have a old SlimDevices unit, not the Transporter, but I think I understand enough to help.


Consider the entire path:


1. Starts with the original music source - What were you RIPed from (CD, SACD, DVDA, iTunes Download?)

2. How did you RIP - Lossless or MP3 or Orbis or ...


If either of these is iTunes or lossy compression, the quality is already below either the Transporter or the D2 and it does not matter, and CD source is questionalble as both DACs are better than the CD source. So let's assume great source and lossless compression to store on your server.


Transporter --> analog (RCA or Balanced) you get the great DAC in the Transporter but then you get the D2 Analog path. If you are going through the D2 analog DSP chain, the D2 runs that through an ADC then the DSP then the D2 DAC, and again it does not matter that you used the Transporter great DAC. So only if the D2 input is set to Analog Direct will you be using the Transporter DAC, but still through the D2 preamp stage to your final amplifier.


Transporter --> digital (Optical or COAX SPDIF or AES/EBU) The great DAC in the Transporter is skipped, you are going to be using the DAC in the D2. Hey that's OK, it has quite a good DAC also. Unless you have cabling issues and the digital bit stream is getting corrupted somewhere, what gets to the D2 DAC is the same as what was recorded on the server (assuming lossless compression, if not then what gets decompressed inside the Transporter).


I looked at upgrading to a Transporter, but decided to go the Mac HTPC route instead, so I have my server sitting next to my D2 and a SPD/IF optical connection between them. But if I did not I'd just get an Airtunes enabled Airport Express and connect it optically and get my lossless music streamed from my server with an all digital path, and set a laptop permanently running iTunes next to it as a display/controller. Cheaper than the Transporter, same all digital path, and a much nicer user interface than searching for the music you want to play than the interface on the Transporter.


P.S. My technophobic wife seconds that user interface thing, it's why I made the switch, she could never use the old squeezebox interface, so she never listened to music, now that she can run iTunes on the HT display it is easy for her, and she is happy about the $ I've spent on all this new gear - except for the "ugly black cube I sat in THE MIDDLE of her family room" even though I bought one of the smallest SUBs I could find that worked for me and it's sitting between one of my Magnepans and the wall.


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

Lots of heated discussion recently...The Anthem staff (esp. Nick) has been very helpful and more importantly for somebody like me, immediatley ACCESSIBLE by phone or email. Their customer service and prompt answers to my queries is greatly appreciated and probably one of the best I have ever encountered. Have had NO problems running 1080i via HDMI to my DVI Pioneer Elite PRO-730 HD from the D2.


Is it ok to leave the D2 on top of the P5? It happens to sit right on top of the breakers--is that an issue? I do not believe that heat generation from the P5 is an issue (the unit runs cool) but what about vice-versa?


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Gregg Bone,


Great post, and right on the money. It's a good reminder sometimes, with all these new fancy gadgets and the mulititude of ways of connecting them and routing signals. Your description helps us all take a step back, and realize just exactly what's going on here. Your setup struck a chord with me, cause I think more and more we are all going to want the capability this provides you.


So, FWIW, I thought I'd share with you guys how I am doing this today - little bit different than Gregg Bone, but in the same vein, with the same goals. I'm eager to share because last night I actually had a breakthrough on part of this, and have achieved a whole new level of functionality that I didn't have before (and the best part is this one was FREE!). I describe below.


As some of you know, I use an Olive Symphony with my D2, it does a couple of cool things.


1. It streams music from the opposite side of my house, where my old MAC G4 is housing a 1TB music collection, for playback thru the D2 and routing of that playback to any of the 3 Zones + Record.


2. It also allows me to record, either as an AIFF file or directly on CD, any audio source that routes through the D2. In other words, one of the Digital Outs on my D2 is going into the Symphony. This is very cool, because I'm one of these people that likes to find good concerts on channels like MTVHD, and then wants to burn a copy of the Audio portion of the show for listening in the car, archiving for all eternity, etc. I have also been known to this with Saturday Night Live, as there have been some of the greatest 2 or 3 song performances over the years on SNL in my opinion.


3. The Symphony is also a music server on its own, or can be, by using the 80GB drive within it, and ripping CD's into any format directly on box. This is actually its main marketed use, however I don't use it that way at all really. My central repository for music is my 1TB drive on the MAC G4, so why would I need this little extra 80GB! Nevertheless, it's nice that's it there, I have on occasion temporarily stored things on it, for use later across the network where I can see the Symphony "share" from anywhere in the house.


OKAY, so nothing new above, just a recap. Now for the cool part I discovered last night...I have a Tivo Series 3 HD box and before that I had a Series 2. They both have HME capability, or Home Media Engine natively within them. I have been a Tivo freak for a long time, but never knew of this very cool app called Audio Faucet, from digitaldroplet.net. This is a little middleware app that you place on your Mac or Windows music server, and it immediately allows you to "see" your whole iTunes music collection (or non-iTunes for that matter), through the Music Photos and More area of your Tivo! The interface is beautiful, well laid out, simple to use, and even brings over all your album art. You surf your collection of music from your couch thru the Tivo remote, and you play whatever you want! Playlists are there, Genres, and of course Albums and Artists, the whole iTunes shibang!


The best part? This little app is FREE!!!! Anyone with a Tivo with HME (ie any Series 2 or Series 3 Tivo) can just load it onto their music server PC or MAC, and away ya go! Took me all of 10 minutes to be using the thing perfectly. So, the nice part over and above the Symphony is the visual representation of your collection, with artwork and all, right on your TV. The Symphony just has a little LED screen on the front of it (like the Transporter or Roku, etc), and guests find it obnoxious to have to scroll thru the collection on there. So now, they can see it all in 70inch Qualia-vision from anywhere in the living room!


YEEEEEEHAAAAAAA!!! I'll still love the Symphony for what it allows me to do with recordings, burning CD's, ripping, etc. but this little free Audio Faucet app just changed the way we enjoy our music collection over here.


Just thought I'd share, in case there are other Tivo owners out there who may not know just how close they are to being able to view and play your entire music collection over your home network, thru the D2, to any Zone you want, without buying any fancy shmancy Transporter, Symphony, DLink Media Center, Roku, etc. etc. etc.


Aright, that's all I got guys, happy Sunday, happy Football watching, and godspeed to you all!


-Brian


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gregg Bone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Let me see if I can shed any light. I have a old SlimDevices unit, not the Transporter, but I think I understand enough to help.
> 
> 
> Consider the entire path:
> 
> 
> 1. Starts with the original music source - What were you RIPed from (CD, SACD, DVDA, iTunes Download?)
> 
> 2. How did you RIP - Lossless or MP3 or Orbis or ...
> 
> 
> If either of these is iTunes or lossy compression, the quality is already below either the Transporter or the D2 and it does not matter, and CD source is questionalble as both DACs are better than the CD source. So let's assume great source and lossless compression to store on your server.
> 
> 
> Transporter --> analog (RCA or Balanced) you get the great DAC in the Transporter but then you get the D2 Analog path. If you are going through the D2 analog DSP chain, the D2 runs that through an ADC then the DSP then the D2 DAC, and again it does not matter that you used the Transporter great DAC. So only if the D2 input is set to Analog Direct will you be using the Transporter DAC, but still through the D2 preamp stage to your final amplifier.
> 
> 
> Transporter --> digital (Optical or COAX SPDIF or AES/EBU) The great DAC in the Transporter is skipped, you are going to be using the DAC in the D2. Hey that's OK, it has quite a good DAC also. Unless you have cabling issues and the digital bit stream is getting corrupted somewhere, what gets to the D2 DAC is the same as what was recorded on the server (assuming lossless compression, if not then what gets decompressed inside the Transporter).
> 
> 
> I looked at upgrading to a Transporter, but decided to go the Mac HTPC route instead, so I have my server sitting next to my D2 and a SPD/IF optical connection between them. But if I did not I'd just get an Airtunes enabled Airport Express and connect it optically and get my lossless music streamed from my server with an all digital path, and set a laptop permanently running iTunes next to it as a display/controller. Cheaper than the Transporter, same all digital path, and a much nicer user interface than searching for the music you want to play than the interface on the Transporter.
> 
> 
> P.S. My technophobic wife seconds that user interface thing, it's why I made the switch, she could never use the old squeezebox interface, so she never listened to music, now that she can run iTunes on the HT display it is easy for her, and she is happy about the $ I've spent on all this new gear - except for the "ugly black cube I sat in THE MIDDLE of her family room" even though I bought one of the smallest SUBs I could find that worked for me and it's sitting between one of my Magnepans and the wall.



I disagree that the HTPC route is an easier to use interface than the Transporter.

That's the beauty of the Transporter. Even my wife can take the Transporter's remote and browse through our entire music collection within seconds. And she hates remotes







You don't need a video monitor on to use it and the front panel display is big enough to see from across the room 20' away.

Besides I love those analog VU meters on the right side of the Transporter's display.


Getting back to the D2 and the best way to use something like the Transporter, which has excellent DACs, with the D2. I think that depends on your Main speakers. If you are running full range mains then hooking the Transporter's analog outputs (RCA or BNC) to the D2 analog inputs, will take full benefit of the Transporters excellent DACs. On the other hand if you're like most of us who use less than full range main speakers and ultilize a sub or two, than a digital connection between the Transporter and the D2 will probably sound better.

However the D2 does such an excellent job processing analog sources that each user will have to make up their own minds and ears what sounds best in his/her system.


dc


----------



## buyrightlow

Well, I've decided to dump the AVM50 and its matching amp, aka, the doorstops. While I applaud Athem for attempting to marry a great video and audio solution with complicated software, the software has proven to be so buggy as to make it unworkable in a large variety of instances, specifically many hdmi to dvi connection environments, which are plentiful, and when attempting to load new software into the unit, which attempts have shown to fail repeatedly by those few users who have tried to download new versions. I suspect their problems on this are not widely reported because few have attempted software downloads. The 100 plus pages of chatter on this board is testament to the many issues owners are having!


I can get the Optoma HD3000 with the exact same gennum chip and capabilities, that will certainly work with the Optoma projectors without problem (street price $2200). A separate high end audio receiver and amp can handle hdmi signals, and avoid all the software needed to make video and audio run together in the same machine. I am going to keep it simple, especially since Anthem has demonstrated they can't fully handle the complex software issues involved in marrying their stellar pieces together. Why spend all the money and effort on software that has a decades old tradition of bugginess, when for the same or more money you can get the same effect without any possible complications, now or downstream.


Any suggestions on a great hdmi capable receivers with matching amp







?


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on a great hdmi capable receivers with matching amp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?



Therein lies the problem. Good luck finding a receiver that will sound or function as well as your Anthem combo did.

You think Anthem has interface issues










dc


----------



## LEVESQUE




buyrightlow said:


> I can get the Optoma HD3000 with the exact same gennum chip and capabilities, that will *certainly* work with the Optoma projectors without problem (street price $2200).
> 
> 
> 
> You're dreaming... But it's ok if you want to believe it... It will probably work with your projector (with the good cable length and brand...), but will be buggy with alot of different DVI and HDMI sources...
> 
> 
> Go in the video processor section of AVS and read all those really long and countless threads on all the problems, bugs and incompatibilities those scalers are all suffering from. Nothing different. DVDO VP50, VP30, Crystalio II, Algolith Dragonfly... they are all having problems with HDCP, HDMI and DVI.
> 
> 
> The problem is not the D2/AVM50, or all those high-end scalers, it's all those manufacturers out there NOT FOLLOWING the HDMI specs (just like Optoma with their projectors by the way...), and that don't even bother doing it right the 1st time, and much less doing a firmware upgrade to fix those after...
> 
> 
> I really hope it will work for you. But in here, get your facts straight, please, and stop accusing the wrong people. It's not Anthem the problem, it's the manufacturers doing all those out of specs equipment: satellite decoders, cables, projectors (Optoma is one of those...), players...
> 
> 
> I really wish you good luck. And I really hope you will move on.
Click to expand...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This may already be posted but what is the difference between the d2 and avm50 besides the 24/192 sampling and dual dsp engines? are the parts the same? is there a 2000 dollar difference? just a newbie asking silly questions.



The video solution is identical between the two.


The audio solution in the D2 is more "exotic". It has a better power supply and faster digital processing parts. The layout is different as well.


From a feature point of view, there's a comparison chart that you can find in the AVM section of the Anthem site. It lays it out pretty well.


But yes there are some parts differences.


I think the $2K premium has some "additional dealer profit" included, but it is a fair premium compared to other high-end pre-pros for the added "exotic" audio stuff.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Buyrightnow - If you haven't completely soured on Anthem how about the AVM-40? I don't think you are going to find an HDMI receiver any where near the quality of the Anthem and the receivers have their own set of issues.


I've loaded at least five different versions of firmware on my D2 to date and have never had any issues upgrading. I also have four HDMI sources going to a DVI display without issues. My first unit did develop a minor HDMI audio problem but was promptly replaced by Anthem. Just because you have a known finicky projector doesn't make the D2 fully to blame. The D2 worked at the dealer correct? Not saying the Anthem is perfect but it really has no competition at this level. I think the reason you see so much posting here is because there is so much interest in the Anthem and the people having issues are going to be more vocal. Anthem has been very responsive to any problems in my experience, which is more then I can say about most companies. I guess what I'm saying is Anthem is pretty much the only game in town if you are looking for a high end HDMI processor unless you want to spend three or four times the amount on a Lexicon MC-12HD.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it ok to leave the D2 on top of the P5? It happens to sit right on top of the breakers--is that an issue? I do not believe that heat generation from the P5 is an issue (the unit runs cool) but what about vice-versa?



I have a superstitious fear of putting anything on top of a power amp. But it is true that modern power amps run MUCH cooler than in the old days.


The D2 on the other hand needs to dissipate a lot of heat. Some folks have found that raising it further off the surface (by 1/2 inch risers under the D2's feet) makes a valuable difference. That implies to me that you do not want even a modestly warm surface UNDER the D2.


Here's a suggestion: Don't trust your hand to measure temps here. Get one of those infrared thermometers from, say, a cooking store -- the type that looks like a gun and often comes with a little laser light as a pointing aid. You can point this at the top of a table or the top of the P5 and compare ambient temps quite easily. If you have any cabinetry, you can also point this at the inside walls and ceiling to see what thermal "image" they are presenting to the electronics inside after things heat up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on a great hdmi capable receivers with matching amp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?



I'm sorry the Anthem stuff didn't work out for you. I, too, think you will be much happier with some other product. Sometimes the product and the customer just aren't a match.


Check out the "future proof" receiver sticky thread at the top of this forum.


Right now, folks are talking up Marantz, Yamaha, Onkyo and Denon receivers in there.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k

Good morning everyone!


Well finally sat down and enjoyed a couple movies with the new Oppo 970 last night. Had to fight it at first. Ran into HDMI handshake issues. Same problem of having to power up the Oppo first then power up the Anthem. When I turned them on normally, the Oppo was pushing 480i but when I went into the Video information on the AVM-50 it showed there was no video input. Looks like the Anthem was passing all of the information straight through to the TV. Need to figure out how program the Logitech 880 to do that, if it is at all possible. At the moment I am only upscaling to 720p which brings up one of my first questions. My Hitachi is native 720p but can accept 1080i. My question is if I push 1080i to it, will the display have to process the video at all? Not familiar with how rear projection TV's process information like this.


Second thing. Can someone with the Oppo 970 tell me what settings you are using regarding the audio and video outputs? I have the two devices connected via HDMI, set to output at 480i on the Oppo. Not sure how many people use the Logitech 880, but I did notice something strange. When I push play DVD it sets the Anthem to DVD2? Anyone seen this before? I have double checked the Remote setup and it should be setting it to just DVD.


Other than that, once I got everything setup. I am very happy with the picture from the Oppo. For $150 player it works just perfect for this setup. So for now I am using the Denon 3910 to play audio only. I listened to both of them and maybe it is just my mind playing tricks on me, but I still prefer the audio from the Denon. I think I am going to look at a CD Changer for those days when I just want to listen to music non-stop without changing out the CD every 45 minutes. Been researching it, and one of the favorites seems to be the Rotel RCC-1055. Would love to stick with Denon (Really like my Paradigm/Denon dealer) but just seems there aren't too many people happy with the Denon DCM-390.


Can't wait for all the announcements this week! Should be a great CES!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

neff2k,

If your display is native 720p then that's what you want to send it. If you send it 1080i then the display will de-interlace that 1080i and then scale it down to 720p. This is pointless and will likely introduce artifacts.


The only reason to send 1080i to a 720p native display is if the display has some problem which screws up its handling of 720p input. This happens mainly because manufacturers know their sets will be judged using 1080i in stores so that the QA for 720p is not all it should be. A typical problem would be excessive overscan (pixel cropping) with 720p input that you can not correct with the display's controls.


--------------------------------------------


I suspecct what is going on with the Harmony remote is that it is sending the "DVD" code more than once. As you know, multiple presses of those buttons on the Anthem remote are how you select the overlayed inputs such as DVD2. I believe there is a global setting in the Harmony remote for how many "repeats" it transmits, and it is set pretty high to work with slow-witted devices.

--Bob


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

Thanks, Bob!


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Have we come to any resolution to the 1080p/24 issue between the Anthem and the Sony Pearl?


Anthem sent me the latest beta software (1.11a) and some info on trying a 1080p/48 resolution. I am a bit leary though with the 1080i issue. Have we gotten to the bottom of that?


I really son't want to install this software and run into a problem I don't currently have.


Bob ?



Regards,


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Have we come to any resolution to the 1080p/24 issue between the Anthem and the Sony Pearl?



I think the problem is the Pearl, not the Anthem.


I've been reading alot about that, and was able to also try the DVDO VP50 with the Pearl. With both a HD-DVD player and the Panny BD player, there was also some tearing while outputting 1080p24 from the VP50. The exact same tearing we get with the Anthem D2...


What I think is that the Pearl is converting every video signal (be it i or p, 24,48,50,60...) to 1080p60, and then causing this tearing...


With BOTH the VP50 and the D2, there is tearing when sending 1080p24 to the Pearl. So if the VP50 is doing the exact same thing, it really seems to be a Pearl problem...


And when using the Ruby with the D2 at 1080p48 over the DVI connection, there is no tearing at all...


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I've decided to dump the AVM50 and its matching amp, aka, the doorstops.



Sorry to see you go! With a little more persistance in time you would feel differently. I went through the problems you are experiencing, and often felt the same as you do. It took awhile, HOWEVER, now that I have everthing working as it should you couldn't get me to part with mt D2 for ANYTHING. I'm even considering a 2d D2 or AVM50!


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think the problem is the Pearl, not the Anthem.
> 
> 
> I've been reading alot about that, and was able to also try the DVDO VP50 with the Pearl. With both a HD-DVD player and the Panny BD player, there was also some tearing while outputting 1080p24 from the VP50. The exact same tearing we get with the Anthem D2...
> 
> 
> What I think is that the Pearl is converting every video signal (be it i or p, 24,48,50,60...) to 1080p60, and then causing this tearing...
> 
> 
> With BOTH the VP50 and the D2, there is tearing when sending 1080p24 to the Pearl. So if the VP50 is doing the exact same thing, it really seems to be a Pearl problem...
> 
> 
> And when using the Ruby with the D2 at 1080p48 over the DVI connection, there is no tearing at all...



Greetings,


Actually the Pearl is converting the 1080p/24 signal to 96hz which is still a multiple of 24. Nick feels that trying a 1080p/48 hz signal will decrease the problem. My concern is right now is not so much trying that but updating my current software to 1.11a.


Has the 1080i problem been resolved with this version?


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Actually the Pearl is converting the 1080p/24 signal to 96hz which is still a multiple of 24. Nick feels that trying a 1080p/48 hz signal will decrease the problem. My concern is right now is not so much trying that but updating my current software to 1.11a.
> 
> 
> Has the 1080i problem been resolved with this version?
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,

We have no reason to believe the 1080i problem is resolved yet. My understanding is that 1.11a is simply a somewhat more robust version of the installer for 1.11.


If you don't have a pressing need for 1.11 yet, I'd hold off yet. There are other folks here, I think, who already have V1.11 and a Pearl and can try /48Hz into the Pearl and report back.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually the Pearl is converting the 1080p/24 signal to 96hz which is still a multiple of 24.



No one was ever able to confirm that. That's what people assume it's doing. If it was confirmed somewhere, I didn't see it.


And why does the DVDO VP50 is having the exact same "problem" then?


----------



## vcs_wharvey

Hey everyone,


A quick question and change of subject from some of the drama here.


Even with the 1080i bug I love this piece. I love this piece!!!


Anyway, I received my Oppo 970HD and everything is great, but I am having problems listening to 96khz 5.1 channel DVD Audio content via HDMI thru the AVM50. Are there any settings I should be aware of? DVD audio will work for stereo dvd audio but for some reason it will not work for 5.1.


I have the Oppo set to output RAW audio information. Anything else?


Thanks!!!


Wayne


----------



## abc999

Sure, I had issues upgrading the firmware but this is a minor issue caused by the USB to RS232 cable. Other than that I am a very happy AVM50 owner. The picture quality with the gennum chip is just spectacular. When I see the setup of some of my friends, I just don't comment about their picture quality because I will sound very biased to my system.


To: Buyrightnow


I really don't believe that the AVM50 is the ONLY problem with your system. A little more patience will work wonders.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ralph,
> 
> We have no reason to believe the 1080i problem is resolved yet. My understanding is that 1.11a is simply a somewhat more robust version of the installer for 1.11.
> 
> 
> If you don't have a pressing need for 1.11 yet, I'd hold off yet. There are other folks here, I think, who already have V1.11 and a Pearl and can try /48Hz into the Pearl and report back.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Bob, I have the Pearl and and am running software 1.07d which is a beta and became 1.10. I will try and input the custome rez and see what happens.


Lev, I have no answer for you at this point regarding why this also happens with the VP50 as well.



Regards,


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> 
> A quick question and change of subject from some of the drama here.
> 
> 
> Even with the 1080i bug I love this piece. I love this piece!!!
> 
> 
> Anyway, I received my Oppo 970HD and everything is great, but I am having problems listening to 96khz 5.1 channel DVD Audio content via HDMI thru the AVM50. Are there any settings I should be aware of? DVD audio will work for stereo dvd audio but for some reason it will not work for 5.1.
> 
> 
> I have the Oppo set to output RAW audio information. Anything else?
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!
> 
> 
> Wayne



I believe the 970 has to be set to 720p or 1080i resolutions to properly pass DVD Audio/SACD content. Something to do with bandwidth according to the guys at OPPO.

Somewhat of a hassle but you get use to it










dc


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> 
> A quick question and change of subject from some of the drama here.
> 
> 
> Even with the 1080i bug I love this piece. I love this piece!!!
> 
> 
> Anyway, I received my Oppo 970HD and everything is great, but I am having problems listening to 96khz 5.1 channel DVD Audio content via HDMI thru the AVM50. Are there any settings I should be aware of? DVD audio will work for stereo dvd audio but for some reason it will not work for 5.1.
> 
> 
> I have the Oppo set to output RAW audio information. Anything else?
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!
> 
> 
> Wayne



HDMI specs only allow audio bandwidth as a certain percentage of the currently selected video bandwidth. So if you are trying to output multi-channel, high res PCM over HDMI you need to also raise the video resolution. Just set your video output from the Oppo to HDMI 1080i (or 720p) while listening to DVD-Audio or SACD over HDMI and you should be fine. If you try to do the same at HDMI 480i you will be limited to 2 channels of audio.


Again, this is just the way HDMI works. It is not an error in either the Oppo or the Anthem. It would, I suppose, be better if the Oppo got you to 1080i automatically in such cases, or at least gave you a better idea of why it was limiting you.

--Bob


----------



## vcs_wharvey

DC and Bob,


That makes perfect sense. I'll give it a try and will let you know how it goes!


Wayne


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> 
> A quick question and change of subject from some of the drama here.
> 
> 
> Even with the 1080i bug I love this piece. I love this piece!!!
> 
> 
> Anyway, I received my Oppo 970HD and everything is great, but I am having problems listening to 96khz 5.1 channel DVD Audio content via HDMI thru the AVM50. Are there any settings I should be aware of? DVD audio will work for stereo dvd audio but for some reason it will not work for 5.1.
> 
> 
> I have the Oppo set to output RAW audio information. Anything else?
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!
> 
> 
> Wayne



I believe the Oppo must be set for 720p or 1080i only when listening to multichannel audio. This is a peculiarity of the way audio shares the bandwidth with video through HDMI.


*Edit - OK, so everyone answered this already. This would be a nice feature to ask if Oppo can implement (detecting DVD-A or SACD and auto-switching to 720/1080).


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Bob, I have the Pearl and and am running software 1.07d which is a beta and became 1.10. I will try and input the custome rez and see what happens.
> 
> 
> Lev, I have no answer for you at this point regarding why this also happens with the VP50 as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,

I'll be very interested to see what you come up with.

My Pearl doesn't seem to like anything 1080p accept 60hz.

Any other frequency gets me judder










dc


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ralph,
> 
> I'll be very interested to see what you come up with.
> 
> My Pearl doesn't seem to like anything 1080p accept 60hz.
> 
> Any other frequency gets me judder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dc



FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH ---


I'm here at CES and Sony is my PRIMARY TARGET to

GET INFO FROM and COMPLAIN TO about the *Ruby*

and *Pearl* - for whatever that is good for!


I'll let you know if I get any answers that are helpful.


----------



## ajeruns

Just wanted to let everyone know that for the past week, my AVM 50 has been receiving 1080i signals from my SA 8300 HD DVR with no problems. Currently it is doing this via component cables. I will try it tomorrow via HDMI. One thing I did notice though was when I had the problem with 1080i the Anthem displayed that all signals were "CP" which I believe stands for copy protected, but now that it is passing 1080i, all channels are displayed as "NP" which I assume stands for not protected.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just wanted to let everyone know that for the past week, my AVM 50 has been receiving 1080i signals from my SA 8300 HD DVR with no problems. Currently it is doing this via component cables. I will try it tomorrow via HDMI. One thing I did notice though was when I had the problem with 1080i the Anthem displayed that all signals were "CP" which I believe stands for copy protected, but now that it is passing 1080i, all channels are displayed as "NP" which I assume stands for not protected.



The Component video signals are not copy protected, so "NP" showing in the video input status would be correct.


-----------------------------------------------------------


Have you had any further thoughts on just what it is you did to get the 1080i working again? It would be great if we could figure out a workaround for other folks while Anthem is working on the real fix.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns

Didn't do anything. I pretty much decided to wait until Anthem corrected the problem and have been watching 1080i programs via HDMI running from cable box straight to TV. I've been watching SDTV via component from cable box to Anthem. One day I forgot to uncheck the1080i setting in the SA 8300 while watching SDTV through the Anthem and changed channel to a 1080i station and it worked.


----------



## KCWolfPck

Signature link updated with pictures of my new Anthem AVM-50. I'm loving it. Da-da--da--da--da.......Dominios.


----------



## sfield

If you read older posts from me to this thread, you'll see I noted the Pearl works fine (*) when driven by an HTPC at 23.976hz. No 3:2 judder with film content, no tearing or other artifacts. Also, I have experimented with different 24p timings with the D2 (which I have posted in this thread), when combined with the Toshiba HD-A1, and have been able to improve the results -- I can get about an hour into some movie content before the stuttering problem manifests.


The timing values for 1080p24 builtin to the Anthem are definitately wrong -- it's 24.000hz (instead of 23.976). Note there are people who have posted in the Video processors forum that they've had success driving the Pearl at 24p (23.976) using other scaler solutions.


Nick at Anthem sent me a new live settings editor with a new 48p template (actually, the correct 47.952hz). I will try that this week with the Pearl. Note the pearl display info erroneously reports 48p inputs as 50p (this may just be cosmetic).


(*) I have noticed the pearl does occasionally render the last ~20 vertical lines or so with some anomolies ONLY when at 24p. It's like the lines are shifted a couple of pixels to the left or delayed from the rest of the image. This happens rarely during movie content and seems related to the type of content being input (one particular test pattern causes this to ALWAYS be visible).





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think the problem is the Pearl, not the Anthem.
> 
> 
> I've been reading alot about that, and was able to also try the DVDO VP50 with the Pearl. With both a HD-DVD player and the Panny BD player, there was also some tearing while outputting 1080p24 from the VP50. The exact same tearing we get with the Anthem D2...
> 
> 
> What I think is that the Pearl is converting every video signal (be it i or p, 24,48,50,60...) to 1080p60, and then causing this tearing...
> 
> 
> With BOTH the VP50 and the D2, there is tearing when sending 1080p24 to the Pearl. So if the VP50 is doing the exact same thing, it really seems to be a Pearl problem...
> 
> 
> And when using the Ruby with the D2 at 1080p48 over the DVI connection, there is no tearing at all...


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you read older posts from me to this thread, you'll see I noted the Pearl works fine (*) when driven by an HTPC at 23.976hz. No 3:2 judder with film content, no tearing or other artifacts. Also, I have experimented with different 24p timings with the D2 (which I have posted in this thread), when combined with the Toshiba HD-A1, and have been able to improve the results -- I can get about an hour into some movie content before the stuttering problem manifests.
> 
> 
> The timing values for 1080p24 builtin to the Anthem are definitately wrong -- it's 24.000hz (instead of 23.976). Note there are people who have posted in the Video processors forum that they've had success driving the Pearl at 24p (23.976) using other scaler solutions.
> 
> 
> Nick at Anthem sent me a new live settings editor with a new 48p template (actually, the correct 47.952hz). I will try that this week with the Pearl. Note the pearl display info erroneously reports 48p inputs as 50p (this may just be cosmetic).
> 
> 
> (*) I have noticed the pearl does occasionally render the last ~20 vertical lines or so with some anomolies ONLY when at 24p. It's like the lines are shifted a couple of pixels to the left or delayed from the rest of the image. This happens rarely during movie content and seems related to the type of content being input (one particular test pattern causes this to ALWAYS be visible).



Greetings,


Thanks sfield. Nick sent me the same LVSE. I will try it and report back.



Regards,


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I was able to load the 1080p/48 custom rez into the Anthem. I then selected "custom" under video output although there was no way to verify that 1080p/48 was actually the rez being output. Sfield points out that the Pearl reports 1080p/48 as 1080p/50 which is what was indicated after I selected custom. The Anthem's info menu shows unknown (or something similar) under the video output.


At any rate, playback was better using this setting but not perfect. The judder was not as pronounced and the intervals between when it did it were longer. Nick did indicate to me that this would probably be the case.


Until there is a "resolution" I am certainly content with sending 1080p/60 as I really see no discernible difference in the quality of the image.


Regards,


----------



## Nevr2Big




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you read older posts from me to this thread, you'll see I noted the Pearl works fine (*) when driven by an HTPC at 23.976hz. No 3:2 judder with film content, no tearing or other artifacts. Also, I have experimented with different 24p timings with the D2 (which I have posted in this thread), when combined with the Toshiba HD-A1, and have been able to improve the results -- I can get about an hour into some movie content before the stuttering problem manifests.
> 
> 
> The timing values for 1080p24 builtin to the Anthem are definitately wrong -- it's 24.000hz (instead of 23.976). Note there are people who have posted in the Video processors forum that they've had success driving the Pearl at 24p (23.976) using other scaler solutions.
> 
> 
> Nick at Anthem sent me a new live settings editor with a new 48p template (actually, the correct 47.952hz). I will try that this week with the Pearl. Note the pearl display info erroneously reports 48p inputs as 50p (this may just be cosmetic).
> 
> 
> (*) I have noticed the pearl does occasionally render the last ~20 vertical lines or so with some anomolies ONLY when at 24p. It's like the lines are shifted a couple of pixels to the left or delayed from the rest of the image. This happens rarely during movie content and seems related to the type of content being input (one particular test pattern causes this to ALWAYS be visible).




Whoa! I'm in line to purchase the new JVC DLA proj which accepts 1080p24 and was ready to pull the trigger on a D2 or AVM50 unit this week. I had hoped to feed the proj with 1080p/24 output from Blu-ray player passing thru D2, and have D2/AVM50 deinterlacing/process other streams and send a 1080p/24 signal to the JVC as well. As I will be using the Anthem unit for more video than pure audio applications, the spectre of having problems on the video end described above are giving me pause.


If the stuttering and line anomalies are not evident when feeding a Pearl via alternate 1080p/24 source, this would more likely implicate the Anthem unit as the site of problem, no? Will newly shipping Anthem units have latest software versions, and has this issue been fixed?


As an aside, there is a new Gennum chip being released this year - will the D2 be similarly upgraded to include it (new production units)? Is there any way to upgrade the older chip (short of buying a new D2!)?


----------



## vcs_wharvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vcs_wharvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DC and Bob,
> 
> 
> That makes perfect sense. I'll give it a try and will let you know how it goes!
> 
> 
> Wayne



Yup - that was it. Thanks!


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If the stuttering and line anomalies are not evident when feeding a Pearl via alternate 1080p/24 source, this would more likely implicate the Anthem unit as the site of problem, no?



The DVDO VP50 is having the same "problem" wiith the Pearl: tearing at 1080p24, but ok at 1080p48, just like the D2.


If it's really a "problem", Anthem will fix it. They just came back from the Holidays and are now working hard on the latest problems.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH ---
> 
> 
> I'm here at CES and Sony is my PRIMARY TARGET to
> 
> GET INFO FROM and COMPLAIN TO about the *Ruby*
> 
> and *Pearl* - for whatever that is good for!
> 
> 
> I'll let you know if I get any answers that are helpful.




drhankz............... Thank you........for what its worth you are doing something noble that will not go unrewarded.......


Peter


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sure, I had issues upgrading the firmware but this is a minor issue caused by the USB to RS232 cable. Other than that I am a very happy AVM50 owner. The picture quality with the gennum chip is just spectacular. When I see the setup of some of my friends, I just don't comment about their picture quality because I will sound very biased to my system.
> 
> 
> To: Buyrightnow
> 
> 
> I really don't believe that the AVM50 is the ONLY problem with your system. A little more patience will work wonders.




OK, I'm trying to be calm, I have ordered a new hdmi/dvi cable that will eliminate my adapter and a signal repeater from monoprice. It does turn out that my audioquest cable is 15', which is when they start to lose signal. My dealer has another AVM50 in stock. If he switches that out for my dead unit, dead after reinstalling downloaded software, I will hook it up one more time when the new cable and signal booster arrive and see if that is the problem. I would like this to work. If not, I will probably wait 6-12 months for more product choices to hit the market.

I got the HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater - Extend Up to 100FT. Hopefully that was the right choice.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It does turn out that my audioquest cable is 15', which is when they start to lose signal.



All I know is I run 30 ft. at 1080p from my D2 to my Ceiling mounted

Sony Ruby Projector with ABSOLUTELY no Problems.


15 ft. doesn't sound like any deal-breaking length to me.


----------



## drhankz

Hi All - I promised to report as best I could on Sony Projector

news which some posters on this thread have asked.

CES NEWS REPORT


I was very disappointed by the Sony Booth and Team

at CES. There was not a Single Projector of any kind.

Their Comment was -- CES is the WRONG SHOW for Projectors.


Let me just say any other projector vendor was there

with 100% Attendance. Sony Projectors was the ONLY

No-Show.


They did say a couple of positive things.


1) They would be at the CEDIA Show 9/4-9/07, Denver, CO.


2) They will be announcing a NEW Projector at that show

called DIAMOND.


3) I was given the name of "THE MAN" when it comes to

Ruby and Pearl Knowledge - he is Rob McDonough. He was

at the show but I could not find him and no one in the SONY

Booth would help me find he. All they would tell me is what

he looked like. If anyone knows how to contact him - please

send me a PM.


----------



## Nathan_R

The International Consumer Electronics Show is the "wrong show" for home HD projectors? Way to dodge the bullet, Sony. Are they going to introduce the PS4 at the International Home Builders Expo 2008?



Edit: I'd love to meet you folks. If you're attending CES, please feel free to stop by my company's booth on Wednesday or Thursday and make my day with a little HT chat. I'll be working RBRC's booth (for my first time, yay!) at South 4 #36609-- just ask for Nathan. While we don't focus at all on home theater, I'd love to shoot the bull about HT or recycling rechargeable batteries (if you're so inclined).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The International Consumer Electronics Show is the "wrong show" for home HD projectors? Way to dodge the bullet, Sony. Are they going to introduce the PS4 at the International Home Builders Expo 2008?



GOOD ANSWERS [GRIN]!


----------



## drhankz

Maybe the BIGGEST NEWS from CES


LG Announced a Combo Player for HD DVD and Blu-Ray.


I missed the LG booth today but I will go back tomorrow

for sure [GRIN]!

*Anthem is ALSO on my Agenda for Tuesday!*


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not to minimize your frustration, but it is not as simple as saying DVI doesn't work. I'm using HDMI to DVI from my D2 to my Fujitsu plasma at 1360 x 768p. DRHANKZ and LEVESQUE are using 1080p/48Hz via DVI into their Ruby projectors. And there are others here as well who have reported success with V1.11 software in DVI configurations.
> 
> 
> So there's something more complicated going on here.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> The shocking pink imaging is symptomatic of a mismatch in "color format". Your DVI projector likely wants RGB format (since that's the default for DVI), which you can specify in the Anthem's Setup/Video Output menu. If for whatever reason the Anthem is sending YCbCr instead, then you get that type of coloration (i.e., the "Y" gray scale signal is interpreted as Red).
> 
> 
> You should probably set "RGB" color format explicitly in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu rather than depending upon the "Auto" setting.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------
> 
> 
> The next thing I'd suggest is that you unplug everything from the Anthem, move it closer to the projector, and try a *SHORT* HDMI to DVI cable and see if that works reliably. Use the Anthem's Setup screen and the test pattern charts in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) to test this without needing any source device hooked up.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that you may need to try both settings of HDMI Sync in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu to find the one that gives you a good signal.
> 
> 
> If this works at the output resolution you want to use, then that suggests a cable problem. For a given quality of cable, the reliable length is shorter for an HDMI to DVI connection than for an HDMI to HDMI connection.
> 
> 
> If it still doesn't work, and you are trying to use 1080i output resolution, then you may indeed have the 1080i bug that Anthem is supposedly going to fix soon. But again, that is not a DVI specific problem.
> 
> 
> I don't know what else you may have already tried with Anthem tech support, but these are the first two things I'd suggest.
> 
> --Bob



Well, I exchanged my unit and followed your suggestion to switch to RGB, which tech support at Anthem never mentioned, nor the dealer or his installer. Switiching to rgb solved the problem! No more pink! I am amazed that they didn't recognize the problem, forced me to download the software and killed the other unit. Well, I bought a cable out of this, eliminating my adapter, I guess that's some good.

I broke the hdmi connection on my directv box and now can't get the Anthem to recognize the sat signal through component. I'm sure it's something simple too, but I can't figure that out. I will get the new unit in a couple of days and will then connect through hdmi, which should probably solve the problem. But I could use some help on getting sat to work for the next couple of days, if any suggestions.

Also, Anthem suggests on sd dvd's you set the player to 480, which I have done on my Toshiba A2, looks great, but I'm concerned that when playing hd dvd's that won't be any good. Will I need to go back into the player setup menu and reset to 1080 every time I play a hd dvd, or is some other approach workable.

Thanks again and again and again
























Bob, you are my hero


----------



## Nathan_R

Bob is one hell of an asset to AVS. I wouldn't be surprised if the administrators ask him to be a mod of the Audio section soon.


With that said, in my humble opinion, the "leave-the-dvd-player-at-480i" advice really only pertains to SD-only players. As you have an A2, which has a darned good scaler in it by the way, you will be better off leaving it at 720p or 1080i all the time for stellar HD DVD and SD playback. While it's preferable to let the Anthem's scaler handle 480i off an SD dvd, it's probably not worth the effort to toggle your player's resolution when you switch between a HD DVD and and an SD disc.


However, I'm sure there are people who do actually toggle 480i and 1080i depending on the disc type. Personally, I'm fairly happy with my Toshiba's scaling abilities.


----------



## rlockshin

Any word from Anthem as to how soon for the 1080i fix?

Thanks

Rick


----------



## Bob Pariseau

buyrightlow,

Unfortunately, at this time the Toshiba A2 offers no automatic way to switch to HDMI 480i for standard DVDs and still use HDMI 1080i for HD-DVDs. There's a rumor that this feature will be added in new Toshiba software due in April.


You could, of course leave it at HDMI 1080i for both. But I've not yet heard of results from the various folks that I trust to test this stuff regarding the A2's de-interlacing and scaling. For that matter I haven't heard yet whether or not the A2 is known to do HDMI 480i without peculiarities!


Such results are likely going to be forthcoming shortly. There are already some very interesting preliminary results on scaling by the XA2....


If I were using an A2 as my primary solution for standard DVDs I would probably go through the effort of manually changing it to HDMI 480i each time I played one, and then returning it to high res for HD-DVD discs. But that's simply because I *KNOW* what the Anthem is capable of doing when handed "proper" HDMI 480i, and I'm guessing it is more likely that the A2 will have de-interlacing and/or scaling problems than that it will have screwed up HDMI 480i output.


**** NOTE 1: You most certainly do NOT want to set the A2 to play HD-DVD discs at 480i. ****

That would defeat the whole purpose of playing an HD-DVD disc. Once the HD image is downscaled to 480i, the information lost can not be restored.


That said, I probably wouldn't be able to resist doing some of my own experiments with the A2 feeding standard DVDs to the Anthem at HDMI 1080i as well.


NOTE 2: Be aware that you may need to calibrate the basic levels DIFFERENTLY for HDMI 480i vs HDMI 1080i input from the A2. Before you compare standard DVD performance through the Anthem with HDMI 480i vs. HDMI 1080i input from the A2, be sure you have both ways properly calibrated. A calibration DVD such as Avia or Digital Video Essentials (DVE) is your tool of choice here.


---------------------------------------------------------------


On your problem with the DirecTV box, I believe you have to actually disconnect the HDMI cable from the DirecTV box to enable its Component video outputs.


Then on the Anthem side, in Setup / Source Select for that input, you need to specify the appropriate Component video input *BOTH* in the "Scaler Input" line and in the "Component Video Input" line.


If those two items don't get it working for you, then there's probably an HDMI enabling setting in the DirecTV box that I've forgotten to tell you to clear. Check through it's output setup options.


---------------------------------------------------------------


Finally, thanks for the kind words. I'm delighted things are going more smoothly for you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Sorel




> Quote:
> But I've not yet heard of results from the various folks that I trust to test this stuff regarding the A2's de-interlacing and scaling.



I don't know if this will be the same for the A2, but you might want to read this about the XA2:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=782887


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Might as well put the good news in this thread too!


The procedure and pricing for upgrading an Anthem Statement D1 into a D1-HD (basically a D2, but with the original logos on the front panel) is now on the Anthem web site:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...pgrade_HW.html 


I was not able to find any similar page for upgrading an AVM to the AVM-50 feature set.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Might as well put the good news in this thread too!
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...pgrade_HW.html
> 
> 
> --Bob



For Everyone's Info - My D2 is the MULE D1 to D2 upgrade. It was

done as a test case and I can attest to it WORKING GREAT [GRIN]
*- Now that the cat is OUT OF THE BAG [GRIN]*


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For Everyone's Info - My D2 is the MULE D1 to D2 upgrade. It was
> 
> done as a test case and I can attest to it WORKING GREAT [GRIN]
> *- Now that the cat is OUT OF THE BAG [GRIN]*



You got a mule AND a cat in that bag? (grin!)


OK, now what else ya got up your sleeve?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You got a mule AND a cat in that bag? (grin!)
> 
> 
> OK, now what else ya got up your sleeve?
> 
> --Bob



I can not talk about things NOT ANNOUNCED YET [GRIN]!


----------



## sfield

Nevr2Big,


The Anthem CAN pass through a 24p signal fine. That is, if you have a HTPC, Blu-ray, or HD-DVD player (2nd gen) that outputs [email protected], you can input that to the Anthem. If you set the "7" video menu property for that input to Framelock=Auto, the Anthem will basically just pass the signal through with the same timing values. This is in fact how I have the HTPC setup (it outputs 23.976hz, which is passed through to the Pearl from the D2, and this works correctly). So, you should be fine if you are hooking up a blu-ray player that is outputting 24p.


The problems with the D2 revolve around using inputs that are NOT already 1080p24. In my particular case, the output of the Toshiba HD-A1 is [email protected], and the Anthem does not work correctly (or for the full duration of a movie) when converting this to a 1080p24 (24.000 or 23.976) output.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Whoa! I'm in line to purchase the new JVC DLA proj which accepts 1080p24 and was ready to pull the trigger on a D2 or AVM50 unit this week. I had hoped to feed the proj with 1080p/24 output from Blu-ray player passing thru D2, and have D2/AVM50 deinterlacing/process other streams and send a 1080p/24 signal to the JVC as well. As I will be using the Anthem unit for more video than pure audio applications, the spectre of having problems on the video end described above are giving me pause.
> 
> 
> If the stuttering and line anomalies are not evident when feeding a Pearl via alternate 1080p/24 source, this would more likely implicate the Anthem unit as the site of problem, no? Will newly shipping Anthem units have latest software versions, and has this issue been fixed?
> 
> 
> As an aside, there is a new Gennum chip being released this year - will the D2 be similarly upgraded to include it (new production units)? Is there any way to upgrade the older chip (short of buying a new D2!)?


----------



## Bob Sorel

Just out of curiosity, how long was it between the time that Anthem released the D2 and the first "regular" (non beta) D1 upgrade took place?


----------



## leverge

Hello to every one, I am a french avm50 owner and would like to know if Anthem is planning to add more video features on AVM50/D2 video boards like for example good sharpening and NR???


What do you think guys about these features????


Apart of that my AVM50 is V1.11, I have an hdmi DVB set top box connected to it and don't have the problem you have with 1080i over HDMI.


----------



## LEVESQUE

For those interested in a great Blu-ray player, the new Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1 is working great and without a single glitch with the D2.


You can use Source Direct to always output 480i for Standard DVDs and 1080p24 with Blu-ray disks automatically. Also, DLNA is working like it should (plug-and-play in my case) and is a REALLY nice feature on the Pioneer. It's a nice surprise for me, and this feature is really growing on me now.










The player is really fast and responsive and simply feel like a "normal" DVD player compared to my Toshiba HD-A1 that is SOOO slow.


So far, it's a steallar performer sonically, and the picture is great. I didn't had alot of times for testing, since I'm always getting sucked in the movie...


I didn't had time to compare 480i out of the Pioneer to the Oppo 970HD, but I will try to do it today. But it looks like my Oppo will go in another room soon.










Also, our friend Drhankz was able to confirm that the Pioneer BDP-HD1 will be updated via firmware upgrade (disks or internet) and able to play all the newest HD audio codecs. great news!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9396873


----------



## Blaine

Levesque - I have the option of upgrading my DV-79AVi to the BDP-HD1 but for now I have a PS3 doing my Blu-Ray duty.


Can you think of a reason why the BDP-HD1 would be worth the upgrade (costing $500-$1000) over my existing DV-79AVi+PS3?


My setup is similar = Statement D2, Sony Pearl PJ.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...pgrade_HW.html
> 
> 
> I was not able to find any similar page for upgrading an AVM to the AVM-50 feature set.
> 
> --Bob



I'm waiting for this so emailed Nick this morning. His answer today:


"Working on it, to be announced once available."


No mention of price.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Sorel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity, how long was it between the time that Anthem released the D2 and the first "regular" (non beta) D1 upgrade took place?



Let's see, from the first point that an average person could actually receive a D2 from an Anthem dealer to the first point a person could badger Anthem into giving an RMA # for the D1 to D1-HD upgrade was, I believe, about 8 months. Reviewer copies of the D2 were out earlier than that of course.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leverge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello to every one, I am a french avm50 owner and would like to know if Anthem is planning to add more video features on AVM50/D2 video boards like for example good sharpening and NR???
> 
> 
> What do you think guys about these features????
> 
> 
> Apart of that my AVM50 is V1.11, I have an hdmi DVB set top box connected to it and don't have the problem you have with 1080i over HDMI.



Welcome! I believe most D2 and AVM-50 owners have found no need to use the Detail Enhancement feature already in these products, much less wanting a better version. My personal tests indicate that horizontal resolution through the HDMI path on these is right up to the limits of what the media can provide.


Were there particular situations (particular discs for example) where you thought the AVM-50 imagery needed better sharpness enhancement?


The Noise Reduction is another matter. The Noise Reduction in the Anthem's is better than average to be sure, but not up there with the best available today. This is a function of the particular Gennum chip used in the Anthems. There is a new Gennum chip coming out that is supposed to be better at this, but I have no idea whether a hardware upgrade is feasible.


Again, most D2 and AVM-50 owners are, I believe running with Noise Reduction in its factory default (OFF) setting, as it should be for any high quality content. But there is certainly bad content out there which could benefit from some clever Noise Reduction. The trick is to mask the noise in the content without overly softening the whole image.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blaine* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque - I have the option of upgrading my DV-79AVi to the BDP-HD1 but for now I have a PS3 doing my Blu-Ray duty.
> 
> 
> Can you think of a reason why the BDP-HD1 would be worth the upgrade (costing $500-$1000) over my existing DV-79AVi+PS3?



I'm in the exact same situation. There is no way I could justify a BDP-HD1 over my 79AVi and stopgap PS3. I hate to say it but paying that kind of money for a blu-ray player that can't even play CDs, SACD or DVD-A is a showstopper for me. I find that kind of compromise in an Elite flagship product unforgivable. The fact that the PS3 is probably 95% of the Elite coupled with the unproven blu-ray format which in general seems to be faltering a bit just doesn't make sense for me. I was hoping the BDP-HD1 was going to be the one as I really wanted the DLNA functionality but I am really disappointed by this product.


----------



## ajeruns

Just wanted to post an update that my AVM 50, which was showing signs of the 1080i bug, is now allowing 1080i to pass via component and HDMI. The only glitch now is that I don't have audio via HDMI on 480i content, whereas when the Anthem was not allowing 1080i, I had audio vis HDMI on all content. Received an email from Nick and he assured me a fix is in the works.


PS - Watching the Gators pound the Buckeyes last night through the Anthem via HDMI at 720p was great. Especially noticed picture improvement with the commercials.


----------



## obie_fl

ajeruns - Is the HDMI 480i audio loss with BHN only? Mine is magically working again at all resolutions. I think it is a wierd BHN 8300 issue. I've never had any issues with 480i HDMI audio out of my 79AVi DVD player. You could try forcing the 8300 to reboot and then power it back on with the Anthem already up. Not sure what fixed my issue but somewhere over the holidays my 480i HDMI audio returned.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blaine* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque - I have the option of upgrading my DV-79AVi to the BDP-HD1 but for now I have a PS3 doing my Blu-Ray duty.
> 
> 
> Can you think of a reason why the BDP-HD1 would be worth the upgrade (costing $500-$1000) over my existing DV-79AVi+PS3?
> 
> 
> My setup is similar = Statement D2, Sony Pearl PJ.




If you are not using the DV-79AVI to listen to CD, SACD, nor DVD-A, I would do the swap.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm in the exact same situation. There is no way I could justify a BDP-HD1 over my 79AVi and stopgap PS3. I hate to say it but paying that kind of money for a blu-ray player that can't even play CDs, SACD or DVD-A is a showstopper for me. I find that kind of compromise in an Elite flagship product unforgivable. The fact that the PS3 is probably 95% of the Elite coupled with the unproven blu-ray format which in general seems to be faltering a bit just doesn't make sense for me. I was hoping the BDP-HD1 was going to be the one as I really wanted the DLNA functionality but I am really disappointed by this product.



I don't understand why and I don't agree with you. The concept of the Elite brand name is not to provide the absolute universal player but instead the optimum performance on any type of devices. I believe they will achieve it when they will be releasing a firmware upgrade that will support TruHD and/or DTSHD. You will than get the optimal Blu-Ray player.


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ajeruns - Is the HDMI 480i audio loss with BHN only? Mine is magically working again at all resolutions. I think it is a wierd BHN 8300 issue. I've never had any issues with 480i HDMI audio out of my 79AVi DVD player. You could try forcing the 8300 to reboot and then power it back on with the Anthem already up. Not sure what fixed my issue but somewhere over the holidays my 480i HDMI audio returned.



HDMI 480i audio loss is with BHN only. I also suspect BHN and/or the SA8300 box is the issue. I tried the reboot last night and it didn't work. I reconnected the digital coax from the 8300 to the Anthem and get audio on all content now. The wierd thing is when I set the audio input in the Anthem to digital coax TV, I get sound through both the TV speakers and the speakers connected to the Amps. The audio is being transmitted via the HDMI out of the Anthem to the HDMI in on my TV.


What does the Input Status on your Anthem state your 8300 is sending it? On the few times mine has registered anything it states "HDMI RGB" Currently it states "No Input." Am I supposed to configure the Anthem to output RGB to my display? I've tried both RGB and YCbCr 444 and the picture quality is the same.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI 480i audio loss is with BHN only. I also suspect BHN and/or the SA8300 box is the issue. I tried the reboot last night and it didn't work. I reconnected the digital coax from the 8300 to the Anthem and get audio on all content now. The wierd thing is when I set the audio input in the Anthem to digital coax TV, I get sound through both the TV speakers and the speakers connected to the Amps. The audio is being transmitted via the HDMI out of the Anthem to the HDMI in on my TV.
> 
> 
> What does the Input Status on your Anthem state your 8300 is sending it? On the few times mine has registered anything it states "HDMI RGB" Currently it states "No Input." Am I supposed to configure the Anthem to output RGB to my display? I've tried both RGB and YCbCr 444 and the picture quality is the same.



Use YCbCr 4:4:4 for the video output setting from the cable box to the Anthem over HDMI. The difference is subtle but this will give you better results.


Sometimes the info display in the Anthem fails to pick up on the correct status quickly enough. Momentarily switch the Anthem from the cable box to another input and then back to the cable box and see if the info display in the Anthem doesn't now display reasonable results.


Your loss of audio may be due to the cable box mistakenly believing it is connected to a DVI device. This should not be possible at 480i, but never underestimate the ability of the engineers to screw things up. This would also explain the cable box switching to RGB output. DVI devices use RGB format by default and can't pass audio over that connection. Try to force the cable box to use "HDMI" and YCbCr, as well as resetting any setting for automatically transmitting audio over that HDMI connection and see if that helps.


If you are using HDMI Repeater = Yes in that input's settings in the Anthem, try Repeater = No.


A screwed up hanshake like this (i.e., mistakenly believing this is a DVI connection) could also be a result of a marginal cable between the cable box and the Anthem. Some of these cable boxes have really bad transmit/receive circuits on that output apparently.


The mistake could be at either end. I.e., the ANTHEM might think the cable box is only a DVI source device, and thus can't be sending audio.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Use YCbCr 4:4:4 for the video output setting from the cable box to the Anthem over HDMI. The difference is subtle but this will give you better results.
> 
> 
> Sometimes the info display in the Anthem fails to pick up on the correct status quickly enough. Momentarily switch the Anthem from the cable box to another input and then back to the cable box and see if the info display in the Anthem doesn't now display reasonable results.
> 
> 
> Your loss of audio may be due to the cable box mistakenly believing it is connected to a DVI device. This should not be possible at 480i, but never underestimate the ability of the engineers to screw things up. This would also explain the cable box switching to RGB output. DVI devices use RGB format by default and can't pass audio over that connection. Try to force the cable box to use "HDMI" and YCbCr, as well as resetting any setting for automatically transmitting audio over that HDMI connection and see if that helps.
> 
> 
> If you are using HDMI Repeater = Yes in that input's settings in the Anthem, try Repeater = No.
> 
> 
> A screwed up hanshake like this (i.e., mistakenly believing this is a DVI connection) could also be a result of a marginal cable between the cable box and the Anthem. Some of these cable boxes have really bad transmit/receive circuits on that output apparently.
> 
> 
> The mistake could be at either end. I.e., the ANTHEM might think the cable box is only a DVI source device, and thus can't be sending audio.
> 
> --Bob



I had a stability issue between the D2 and my SA8300HD that was not there when I was using the DVDO VP50. I replaced the cheap cable with an Ultralink Pro that solves the issue. The D2 may be a bit more susceptible to bad HDMI devices than the VP50. Anyway with the new cable all my problem went away.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had a stability issue between the D2 and my SA8300HD that was not there when I was using the DVDO VP50. I replaced the cheap cable with an Ultralink Pro that solves the issue. I though that the cheap cable. The D2 may be a bit more susceptible to bad HDMI devices than the VP50. Anyway with the new cable all my problem went away.



Yeah, these problems are hard to pin down. I believe the root cause of the problem lies in the 8300's output stage chips, but a marginal connection goes over the edge to failure because of very subtle things such as slight differences in the mechanical contact between plug and socket.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns

Thanks for the suggestions Bob. I'll give them a try, but I think ultimately I am going to use the component cable as the connection between the Anthem and the cable box. I also have an HDMI cable going from the cable box to the TV. This setup makes it "wife friendly" and all she has to do is press one button to watch TV. If I want to watch a TV program via the Anthem I can do it by way of component cable connection. Frankly, I don't notice any difference in picture quality watching HDTV content through the Anthem vs. HDMI straight from the cable box to the TV, but do notice an improvement in SDTV programming. This is one of the reasons that makes the Anthem such a great product....it's a tweaker's dream. I'll probably be changing connections, settings, doing A/B comparisons, etc.. for the next 3 months.


----------



## cobracalde

Hello from Italy!


Sorry for my poor english..


I read about a future room EQ module for Anthem D2...


Is't a hardware upgrade? or only software?


Thanks


Stefano


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello from Italy!
> 
> 
> Sorry for my poor english..
> 
> 
> I read about a future room EQ module for Anthem D2...
> 
> 
> Is't a hardware upgrade? or only software?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Stefano



The only public information we have at this time is that it is a FREE software upgrade consisting of both D2 and Windows PC software, plus a calibrated microphone that you will have to buy from Anthem


The PC software will be needed to get to the full flexibility of the new stuff, but it will only be needed while creating the settings to be downloaded into the D2. The PC and microphone will not be needed during normal listening.


It seems likely that some subset of the full featured Room EQ will be available directly from the software in the D2 without requiriing a PC for setup -- much like the current D2 video features are divided into stuff that you can do in the D2's own setup menus plus more complicated stuff you can only do by using the Live Video Settings Editor software running on a Windows PC.


There's been enough leaking of information that I suspect there are already test versions of this new stuff out in the field now, but noone's talking yet. My guess is we'll see this released this Spring.


It is possible that some owners may only install the free software, and will then pay a dealer to send over someone with a PC and the microphone to do the actual calibration and setup.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those interested in a great Blu-ray player, the new Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1 is working great and without a single glitch with the D2.
> 
> 
> You can use Source Direct to always output 480i for Standard DVDs and 1080p24 with Blu-ray disks automatically. Also, DLNA is working like it should (plug-and-play in my case) and is a REALLY nice feature on the Pioneer. It's a nice surprise for me, and this feature is really growing on me now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The player is really fast and responsive and simply feel like a "normal" DVD player compared to my Toshiba HD-A1 that is SOOO slow.
> 
> 
> So far, it's a steallar performer sonically, and the picture is great. I didn't had alot of times for testing, since I'm always getting sucked in the movie...
> 
> 
> I didn't had time to compare 480i out of the Pioneer to the Oppo 970HD, but I will try to do it today. But it looks like my Oppo will go in another room soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, our friend Drhankz was able to confirm that the Pioneer BDP-HD1 will be updated via firmware upgrade (disks or internet) and able to play all the newest HD audio codecs. great news!
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9396873



Levesque.......have you received your XA2 yet? I am salivating to see what you are probably already experiencing with the Pio hd1.


Peter


----------



## drhankz

Anthem News - Live from CES


Hi ALL:


Today's Targets were Sony AGAIN for Ruby Pearl Questions.


And VISIT the Anthem Suite at the Venetian.

=============================================
*SONY NEWS:*


Even though I could not find Rob McDonough - Mr. PJ Wizard - I did talk to an

engineer who was responsible for the SXRD Rear Projection HD TV's which I

had heard used a Pearl inside.


He said not quite - It does use the same optical engine, with different optics

[obviously] and a different light source [ obviously].

*FIRST* - I asked what scan rate the Pearl CONVERTED the 24 fps into.
*His answer was 96 fps.*


I said - some Pearls are have tearing problems with VP's which output

24 or 48 fps.

*He said YES - he was aware of that. He said the VPs were

doing SOMETHING Wrong* - he didn't know what. He said output from

a Blu Ray player at 24 fps works fine - if connected directly to the Pearl.


AGAIN - I'm just the REPORTER here. I don't know if the person I talked

with is 100% correct - that is what he said.

*SECOND* - I wish you all could see the EXPRESSION on his face when I

asked him the NEXT question [GRIN]!


I said my belief, after looking at Ruby Schematics from the service manual

was that I BELIEVED, if I could find a way to reprogram scan memory that

the Ruby would except 24 fps over HDMI.


His *EXPRESSION WAS JUST PRICELESS*







- he said I might be right.


I said that is why I was hoping to meet Rob McDonough and ask him that

question. He did say Rob would know the right answer.

=============================================
*ANTHEM NEWS*


I went to the almost impossible to find ANTHEM Suite in the Venetian Hotel.


I asked if they had anything NEW in the D2/D1 Family.


He said no - what was I thinking of?


I said I was thinking of auto room equalizer [GRIN]!

*He SAID - OH YES - THAT FEATURE*







He said it is turning out to be harder

than they THOUGHT and was about 6 MONTHS Away.


=============================================


YIPEE - Now off to the AVS FORUM PARTY


----------



## Jongoldman

At Bob's suggestion, I connected my Sony DVPCX995V with Component Cables and bought an Optical Audio cable as well. They are connected to Compenent 1 and Optical 1 and are setup through "Aux" so I can toggle between HDMI and Component to compare.


The Sony player is configured to use Digitial Audio. For what its worth I got the Sony to output 480P (it was on 1080i) from its HDMI port, but I can't choose 480i.


The picture is slightly sharper with the Component 480i vs. HDMI 480P, but there is also a touch more noise. Does that make sense?


My main problem is that the D2 just won't recognize the Audio coming in from Optical 1. Any thoughts?


On a related topic, the D2 does a beautiful job of scaling the 480i component 4x3 content to fill the 16x9 in. screen, but the HDMI connection isn't doing it. I'm having trouble figuring out where to set it to do that for 4x3 output (its seems to be smart enough on Component to scale 4x3 to fill the screen by leave 16x9 alone, I'd like to try to get the same results on HDMI).


Any input would be appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jongoldman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> At Bob's suggestion, I connected my Sony DVPCX995V with Component Cables and bought an Optical Audio cable as well. They are connected to Compenent 1 and Optical 1 and are setup through "Aux" so I can toggle between HDMI and Component to compare.
> 
> 
> The Sony player is configured to use Digitial Audio. For what its worth I got the Sony to output 480P (it was on 1080i) from its HDMI port, but I can't choose 480i.
> 
> 
> The picture is slightly sharper with the Component 480i vs. HDMI 480P, but there is also a touch more noise. Does that make sense?
> 
> 
> My main problem is that the D2 just won't recognize the Audio coming in from Optical 1. Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> On a related topic, the D2 does a beautiful job of scaling the 480i component 4x3 content to fill the 16x9 in. screen, but the HDMI connection isn't doing it. I'm having trouble figuring out where to set it to do that for 4x3 output (its seems to be smart enough on Component to scale 4x3 to fill the screen by leave 16x9 alone, I'd like to try to get the same results on HDMI).
> 
> 
> Any input would be appreciated.



I suspect you have Sharpness cranked up too high for the Component 480i signal. The sharper image you are seeing may be made up of "false detail" -- which also explains why you see "noise".


Sharpness (vertical edge enhancement) will be a combination of any detail or sharpness enhancement setting in the player, the Detail Enhancement input setting in the Anthem, and the Sharpness setting in your TV. It is very common for people to crank Sharpness up too high until they get used to what a properly calibrate image is supposed to look like.


It is also possible that Black levels (Brightness control) are wrong for your Component 480i input. You may be seeing Blacker Than Black data which would appear as noise.


If I'm correct, then either of these problems is easily fixed. Be sure you have your TV's basic levels (Brightness, Contrast, Color, Sharpness) set according to the test charts generated by the Anthem, and then use a calibration DVD to adjust the Anthem's input level settings for the Component 480i input.


Any Detail Enhancement or Sharpness enhancement in the player should be turned off and the Detail Enhancement input item in the Anthem should likely be left in the factory default (0) position, which is also off. Your TV's own Sharpness control will likely provide way more than you need all by itself, and it's correct setting will likely be down in the lower third of its range.


It is not at all unusual that Component and HDMI inputs need different level settings. So calibrate each of them separately when comparing things.


-----------------------------------------------------


The most likely reason you are not getting audio on Optical 1 is that the Anthem's input is not set to look at that plug.


The next most likely reason is that there is a setting you need to make in the Sony player to use its optical output in preference to its HDMI output for digital audio.


Of course you could just have a faulty optical cable.


-----------------------------------------------------


On the 4:3 vs 16:9 stuff, whether for Component 480i output or HDMI 480p output what you want is to set the player to FILL THE SCREEN ITSELF with 4:3 content. The player probably describes this as uniformly "stretching" the 4:3 content, but in reality it means the player is doing nothing whatsoever to the data coming off the disc. The same number of pixels across each line are just being interpreted as fatter.


Meanwhile in the Anthem's Video Source Adjust / Scale Output menu, use Anamorphic to get the 4:3 content to fill a 16:9 screen and use Letter / Pillar Box to have the Anthem generate pillar box bars either side of it to preserve its original shape. The third option, "Panoramic", also fills the screen but concentrates more of the stretching to the sides so that the center of the image is less distorted.


Generally you will leave Anamorphic as the default setting since that's what you want for all wide screen movies, and switch to Letter/Pillar Box manually when playing a 4:3 disc.


I suspect you've got the PLAYER generating pillar box bars for you, which it may do automatically. This is not good, even though it may be more convenient, because it causes loss of horizontal resolution.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Today's Targets were Sony AGAIN for Ruby Pearl Questions.
> 
> 
> I said my belief, after looking at Ruby Schematics from the service manual
> 
> was that I BELIEVED, if I could find a way to reprogram scan memory that
> 
> the Ruby would except 24 fps over HDMI.
> 
> 
> His *EXPRESSION WAS JUST PRICELESS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - he said I might be right.
> 
> 
> I said that is why I was hoping to meet Rob McDonough and ask him that
> 
> question. He did say Rob would know the right answer.
> 
> 
> 
> YIPEE - Now off to the AVS FORUM PARTY



Go get 'em! If we Ruby owners can get this, it will rock.


And on the D2 room EQ feature, I'm OK waiting. It'll take me months to tweak everything else in my system.


Hope you have fun at the party, but not too much fun







- you need to be capable of asking technical questions tomorrow


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,



> Quote:
> Here are my custom timing values below, use the instructions posted elsewhere in this thread for setting these via the Live Video settings editor.
> 
> 
> Others having problems with 24p playback with the Sony Pearl should try this and comment on their results.
> 
> 
> 
> 2200 total horizontal size
> 
> 1920 active horizontal size
> 
> 96 horiz start sync
> 
> 144 horiz end sync
> 
> 
> 1123 total vertical size
> 
> 1080 active vertical size
> 
> 4 start sync veritical
> 
> 13 end sync vertical
> 
> 
> 1080 field active size
> 
> 43 black size
> 
> 0 offset
> 
> 59235106 pixel clock rate.



Thanks very much to sfield for the above values. I tried these this morning and experienced no issues with 24fps playback with Blu-ray/HD DVD/SD DVD.



Regards,


----------



## nine ball

Bob Pariseau, Levesque and Drhankz,


I don't know whether you have been following the most recent Tosh XA2 reviews but the general consensus is that it is by far the best machinery(so far) for upconverting and production of stellar HD programming. The question I have is how does the D2 fit that equation when the prevailing sentiment and evaluation argues very strongly for a direct connect to the Proj/monitor bypassing any external video processing. Am I misinterpreting the conclusions or is there a proper complementary fit to the D2 on the video side of the equation??? I am trying to source an XA2 but as Levesque knows all too often Canada sits in the toilet bowl when it comes to product distribution from the pacific rim.


Peter


Drhankz.....keep those Sony folks in your crosshairs....we are all rooting for you! Great info from the floor for those of us who still have to work for a living and couldn't join you for a beer or scotch or even a good port!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob Pariseau, Levesque and Drhankz,
> 
> 
> I don't know whether you have been following the most recent Tosh XA2 reviews but the general consensus is that it is by far the best machinery(so far) for upconverting and production of stellar HD programming. The question I have is how does the D2 fit that equation when the prevailing sentiment and evaluation argues very strongly for a direct connect to the Proj/monitor bypassing any external video processing. Am I misinterpreting the conclusions or is there a proper complementary fit to the D2 on the video side of the equation??? I am trying to source an XA2 but as Levesque knows all too often Canada sits in the toilet bowl when it comes to product distribution from the pacific rim.
> 
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> Drhankz.....keep those Sony folks in your crosshairs....we are all rooting for you! Great info from the floor for those of us who still have to work for a living and couldn't join you for a beer or scotch or even a good port!



I know every time I say this - Some People say NO NO NO!


I use my HD-A1 to play all my SD DVDs. I let the HD-A1 upconvert

the SD DVD to 1080i and then the D2 to upconvert to 1080p. I

think it looks great.


I also have the Pioneer BDP-HD1 which is the BEST PQ Blu-Ray player.

I have it set to DIRECT - which means it outputs the native resolution

to the D2. When playing a Blu-Ray - it send 1080p/24 to the D2 - just

the Best PQ. When I play a SD DVD in the Pio - it outputs 480i and the

D2 upconverts to 1080p.


I'm sorry to offend anyone - but I like the FIRST SD DVD PQ Better.


AS FOR SONY - they are doing everything to NOT LET ME FIND Rob!

I'll give it one more try today - Then I'm heading EAST Thursday

morning.


----------



## Blaine

OK - could somebody shed some light on my ignorance?


I am sending my Pearl 1080p/60 from my D2 because 1080p/24 seemed to stutter a bit and it made sense to me that increasing the frame rate from 24 -> 60 would provide a better picture.


Is it because 24fps is native and it is better to project an unmolested framerate?


----------



## buyrightlow

New Question:


I'd like to get the internet through my media center pc as well as audio and video content. The pc is in a different room from the entertainment center. To hook this up do I need to run a cable tv coax through a setup box to the pc and then go wireless to the windows media extender. Will the extender allow web surfing as well as access to a/v content?

Is all I need is the usb connection and no separate coax to the pc? If no web surfing, would I be better off just getting a another windows media center pc and dedicate it to the entertainment room?

I know this is off topic, but you guys are great and if you don't know, I'm sure you'll be able to send me to where I can get this info.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blaine* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK - could somebody shed some light on my ignorance?
> 
> 
> I am sending my Pearl 1080p/60 from my D2 because 1080p/24 seemed to stutter a bit and it made sense to me that increasing the frame rate from 24 -> 60 would provide a better picture.
> 
> 
> Is it because 24fps is native and it is better to project an unmolested framerate?



24fps is the native rate of many films transferred to DVD (some "films" are actually shot on video, so their rate is 30fps).


In order to convert to 60, there is a cadence of repeated frames that is non-integer. This can result in visual distortions. (Video-based material is simply doubled in order to achieve a 1080p/60 rate.)


However, there is a lot of debate over the effects of 24 -> 60. In addition, a processor such as the D2 seems to reduce any of these effects.


In general, it is best to avoid a lot of processing and conversions. Any that are done should be in the device that provides the highest quality - for most of us, that is the D2.


Check out Placidman's post earlier today about creating a custom setting for using 24p with the D2 and the Pearl. It seems as though the native D2 settings for 24p don't work as well as the custom ones.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob Pariseau, Levesque and Drhankz,
> 
> 
> I don't know whether you have been following the most recent Tosh XA2 reviews but the general consensus is that it is by far the best machinery(so far) for upconverting and production of stellar HD programming. The question I have is how does the D2 fit that equation when the prevailing sentiment and evaluation argues very strongly for a direct connect to the Proj/monitor bypassing any external video processing. Am I misinterpreting the conclusions or is there a proper complementary fit to the D2 on the video side of the equation??? I am trying to source an XA2 but as Levesque knows all too often Canada sits in the toilet bowl when it comes to product distribution from the pacific rim.



As best I can figure it out, these preliminary de-interlacing and scaling results for the XA2 apply only to the XA2. I.e., not even to the A2, much less the A1.


Nevertheless they are indicative of an important trend: Really good video solutions are starting to migrate down into affordable products.


If you have the XA2 scale standard DVDs to the "native" resolution of your display, and if the Anthem is also set to send out that resolution, then running the HDMI signal through the Anthem will not, I believe, degrade the signal in any way whatsoever.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Thanks very much to sfield for the above values. I tried these this morning and experienced no issues with 24fps playback with Blu-ray/HD DVD/SD DVD.
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph- could you summarize the quality difference you experienced by viewing the 24p? Was it any different on HD/BD vs. SD? Was it subtle, or noticeable?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> New Question:
> 
> 
> I'd like to get the internet through my media center pc as well as audio and video content. The pc is in a different room from the entertainment center. To hook this up do I need to run a cable tv coax through a setup box to the pc and then go wireless to the windows media extender. Will the extender allow web surfing as well as access to a/v content?
> 
> Is all I need is the usb connection and no separate coax to the pc? If no web surfing, would I be better off just getting a another windows media center pc and dedicate it to the entertainment room?
> 
> I know this is off topic, but you guys are great and if you don't know, I'm sure you'll be able to send me to where I can get this info.
> 
> Thanks in advance.



I don't know the details of the media center, but simply put you will need video rate cabling to get the computer monitor image to your display -- Component video or HDMI/DVI. And you will also need a communications channel BACK to the PC for mouse and keyboard activity. That's low bandwidth stuff and USB should handle it for you if you don't run into length limits. A Wifi (radio networking) connection might be an alternative for such control signals.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also have the Pioneer BDP-HD1 which is the BEST PQ Blu-Ray player.
> 
> I have it set to DIRECT - which means it outputs the native resolution
> 
> to the D2. When playing a Blu-Ray - it send 1080p/24 to the D2 - just
> 
> the Best PQ. When I play a SD DVD in the Pio - it outputs 480i and the
> 
> D2 upconverts to 1080p.
> 
> 
> I'm sorry to offend anyone - but I like the FIRST SD DVD PQ Better.



I don't doubt that's what you are seeing. Obviously you know how to eliminate the usual problems of mismatched calibration between sources you are trying to compare.


However as a long time owner of Pioneer standard DVD player products I just need to warn you that it is not yet clear that the BDP-HD1 is producing "correct" HDMI 480i from standard DVDs. Pioneer was one of the first to offer HDMI 480i output, but it typically had to be tweaked in various ways to eliminate some of the things that weren't quite right.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ralph- could you summarize the quality difference you experienced by viewing the 24p? Was it any different on HD/BD vs. SD? Was it subtle, or noticeable?



Greetings,


To be honest I did not do any critical viewing. I was looking for image stability in both HD/BD/DVD. I would not expect there to be a real discernible difference in the quality of the picture in most cases though.


I will do some critical viewing and report back...



Regards,


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As best I can figure it out, these preliminary de-interlacing and scaling results for the XA2 apply only to the XA2. I.e., not even to the A2, much less the A1.
> 
> 
> Nevertheless they are indicative of an important trend: Really good video solutions are starting to migrate down into affordable products.
> 
> 
> If you have the XA2 scale standard DVDs to the "native" resolution of your display, and if the Anthem is also set to send out that resolution, then running the HDMI signal through the Anthem will not, I believe, degrade the signal in any way whatsoever.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob, that was my thought as well. Theoretically is there any upside that the D2 can offer on the VidProc side without a negative impact or is its strength that it will leave the source as pure???? I assume 1080P 24? to the Ruby.


This of course begs the question that Hank is working on that the Ruby can be made to accept the 1080P 24 .......


Based on what appears to be a mountain of early experience with the Tosh Xa2 that it is exemplary, I don't know how I can avoid getting one even if I have to steal it..........


Having said all of that I am still having a continual suite of orgasmic epiphanys with the D2 / P5 on just about every front....SD /HD visuals not to mention the occasional WOW on the audio. To acknowledge your point, the trends are almost escalating to the point where our ability to grasp the real value will increasingly exceed our reach.


I don't know how to avoid sounding like an employee or shareholder in the company, which I am not, but Anthem has such a huge lead with this technology that anyone who has experienced it would feel sorry for Denon (who I am an enormous fan) that their recent announcement is not even a pale shadow of the Statement D2. I just wish they (Anthem) could improve their initial 'out of the box' experience for more first timers. I know its a complex environment(understatement!!!!) but beyond the core of obsessed and compulsive tweakers there is a growing band of potential customers who are intolerant of high tech excuses that should not be denied the pleasures of such a phenomenal accomplishment!


Anthem has to realize that the real value of the Denon A/V separates announcement is that it will create a much larger audience of tech expectations that only Anthem can deliver!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> To be honest I did not do any critical viewing. I was looking for image stability in both HD/BD/DVD. I would not expect there to be a real discernible difference in the quality of the picture in most cases though.
> 
> 
> I will do some critical viewing and report back...
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



The difference SHOULD be "subtle" -- which is why everyone with traditional 60Hz stuff isn't clamoring for it already. The NON-subtle tearing and jerkiness that people have reported from the incorrect timing settings are just bugs.


Most people will spot the difference first in things that the brain knows should be really smooth motion -- scrolling credits are the first place people tend to see it.


Smooth horizontal pans past vertical edges will be another.


But it is typical that folks don't actually "see" the difference unless they are set up to A/B both setups or have a traditional 60Hz setup side by side to watch as well.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz

3rd Day @ CES


Today was my last attempt at getting to the right Sony

Person for Ruby and Pearl Questions.


I already had two strikes against me from the first two

days. This was my LAST PITCH for this year.

*I was expecting 3 strikes and you are OUT!
*

Instead - I hit a *HOME RUN* [GRIN]!


I did not meet up with the person who I had been looking

for - the past two days. But I was lucky enough to meet

his East Coast Teammate. It turns out Sony has TWO WHOLE

Projector experts - one on the west coast and one on the

east coast.

*NO MORE NAMES from here on in!
*

The east coast person lives 12 miles from me in NH. I have

Cell Phone numbers and e-mail addresses for both PJ Experts.


I discussed my Ruby Theory with Mr. NH [GRIN] and he said

it MIGHT be possible. He told me to try a simple test - which

I will do when I get home. If that still looks promising - then

I can contact both guys and explore the *LONG-SHOT*

Possibility of getting the Ruby to accept 1080p/48 over HDMI.

*I'll keep you POSTED.*


I might have to take this person and his wife out for dinner

and drinks - but I now feel if it is POSSIBLE - I have the

right two people to MAKE IT HAPPEN.


----------



## nine ball

awesome news.....well done Hank. How does it go??????"Like a dog with a bone!!!"


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anthem has to realize that the real value of the Denon A/V separates announcement is that it will create a much larger audience of tech expectations that only Anthem can deliver!



Above a certain price point, speakers are all about very subtle differences of design emphasis.


Video processing in mid-range products is going to be that way soon -- perhaps as soon as 2008. The differences between the XA2 and the CrystallIO (Gennum-based) solutions in the cited tests are just that way. There is nothing big you can point at to say THIS is the right way to go.


Which is fine! People debate speakers endlessly and the same will happen with video processing, but it is approaching the point where folks can come to expect a very good quality level from main line manufacturers at "enthusiast" price points -- i.e., not "exotic", but also not "bargain".


The rest is configurability, user interface, connectivity, reliability, and support.


And of course the whole issue of whether you are going to pony up the bucks for the same quality solution multiple times (in multiple devices).

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> awesome news.....well done Hank. How does it go??????"Like a dog with a bone!!!"
> 
> 
> Peter



This was my LAST SHOT - They did have the other guy locked in

the THEATER - where they were running a Sony 4K PJ. I was lucky

to find his *PARTNER in CRIME* in the crowd of Sony People.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> New Question:
> 
> 
> I'd like to get the internet through my media center pc as well as audio and video content. The pc is in a different room from the entertainment center. To hook this up do I need to run a cable tv coax through a setup box to the pc and then go wireless to the windows media extender. Will the extender allow web surfing as well as access to a/v content?
> 
> Is all I need is the usb connection and no separate coax to the pc? If no web surfing, would I be better off just getting a another windows media center pc and dedicate it to the entertainment room?
> 
> I know this is off topic, but you guys are great and if you don't know, I'm sure you'll be able to send me to where I can get this info.
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Finally, a subject that is for the most part in my area of interest. I am a very very slow typist, the antithesis of what you would expect from the CEO of a software company but that often affects written responses so ...........if it looks like it would be easier I just might pm or email you with contact info so that it will be less painful and I can easily tap into the best tech resources on the continent!


To start with everything you want to do is possible and depending on your existing equipment stack and network it may be possible with minimum cost. For example Every device in my HT is addressable both within my home network and from a hotel room in Sydney Australia! It is secure, reliable and stable. There are some easy routes to follow if you already have an XBOX 360 and or a wired or wireless internal home network in place. The quality of 'web surfing ' experience will depend heavily on both your monitor/projector and your graphics card in your PC. Microsoft has in fact just made some announcements at the CES on using VISTA to pretty well make the setup and configuration close to something a houseplant can manage...... BUT and in this business its always a but it depends heavily on your available equipment inventory.


Soooooo do you have an XBOX 360? what PC graphics card? either wired or wireless network in place? I have a number of devices so I have a gigabit switch in the rack that brings everything together but you may not need that.


Lets start there..... at a certain point after we have worked out the basic most effective architecture for your equipment and needs there is an aspect of configuration to your monitor from the graphics adapter over DVI that I will ask Bob Pariseau or Levesque to talk you through as the timing and scaling is an important element to the final product that they are more adept at than me.


So Equipment???????


Peter


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What does the Input Status on your Anthem state your 8300 is sending it? On the few times mine has registered anything it states "HDMI RGB" Currently it states "No Input." Am I supposed to configure the Anthem to output RGB to my display? I've tried both RGB and YCbCr 444 and the picture quality is the same.



I'm away from home for a few weeks so I can't check to be sure. If you still want to know ping me again next week to remind me. I haven't even hooked an analog source up to the D2 since I owned it. I do know that with my previous scaler I saw a significant difference between component and HDMI out of the 8300. I will admit some of the analog degradation may have been a ground loop. With the exception of the mysterious missing 480i audio recently I have had very good luck using the HDMI on the 8300 with the D2 and that includes several updates on both boxes.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't understand why and I don't agree with you. The concept of the Elite brand name is not to provide the absolute universal player but instead the optimum performance on any type of devices. I believe they will achieve it when they will be releasing a firmware upgrade that will support TruHD and/or DTSHD. You will than get the optimal Blu-Ray player.



Has Pioneer made a formal announcement on a firmware update? To me the player just feels unfinished. I assume this is because of the first generation drive used. Both the PS3, which plays SACD and the Panasonic, which plays DVD-A, apparently use a newer drive. The other big question I haven't seen addressed is whether it will support BD-J whenever that is eventually finalized.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Above a certain price point, speakers are all about very subtle differences of design emphasis.
> 
> 
> And of course the whole issue of whether you are going to pony up the bucks for the same quality solution multiple times (in multiple devices).
> 
> --Bob



I believe you are communicating with the original prototype for that kind of behaviour. I can hardly wait for the XA2, have decided that the dual format LG will be mandatory and the Stewart curved panoramic screen will obsolete my Ruby before I can get it properly calibrated. BUT its probably better for me than drugs unless of course.......... IMAX with quad D2's and twenty seven P5's....... and my wife.......what to do with my wife!!!!!!!!!


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe you are communicating with the original prototype for that kind of behaviour. I can hardly wait for the XA2, have decided that the dual format LG will be mandatory and the Stewart curved panoramic screen will obsolete my Ruby before I can get it properly calibrated. BUT its probably better for me than drugs unless of course.......... IMAX with quad D2's and twenty seven P5's....... and my wife.......what to do with my wife!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> Peter



Good grief! With that kind of budget you could probably arrange for Oprah to put in a personal appearance...... (grin!)

--Bob (Press "Fetch Oprah" Activity) P.


----------



## Nevr2Big

Just a note of thanks to Mr. Pariseau, drhankz, Levesque, and others for your patience and assistance over the past weeks. This help along with my investigation, prompted me to purchase a D2 unit (and will be selling the farm shortly!). Your willingness to share knowledge with relative neophytes like myself (and other experts) is commendable.


----------



## abc999

Just thinking about the future, now that Denon, Onkyo and Sherwood are showing receivers with Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master HD. Will there be an upgrade path (hopefully firmware) for the AVM50 or the D2?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just thinking about the future, now that Denon, Onkyo and Sherwood are showing receivers with Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master HD. Will there be an upgrade path (hopefully firmware) for the AVM50 or the D2?



It can not be firmware because HDMI 1.3 is needed to transmit

TrueHD and DTS-HD. Therefore it REQUIRES a Hardware upgrade.


But even receivers that have it - still can't do anything with it

because the player needs 1.3 and all the DVDs to date are

authored in a way that forces decoding in the player.


So you have a BIG Incompatible world out there, when it comes

to decoding in the RECEIVER.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just thinking about the future, now that Denon, Onkyo and Sherwood are showing receivers with Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master HD. Will there be an upgrade path (hopefully firmware) for the AVM50 or the D2?



I'd be pretty surprised if they can add those codecs by firmware alone.


In any event it's not really important to have those in the pre/pro. The important thing is that they are in the PLAYERS.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd be pretty surprised if they can add those codecs by firmware alone.
> 
> 
> In any event it's not really important to have those in the pre/pro. The important thing is that they are in the PLAYERS.
> 
> --Bob



GO TO BED BOB - you are up TOO LATE


----------



## Joe C5

Has anyone had issues with the Toshiba A1 only on certain HDMI ports? I got my "D2" and plugged in my Samsung BR, Oppo 970 and the Toshiba. Everything else worked fine. Toshiba was a no show. It showed the "logo" and setup screen, but would fail the handshake when any disk was played. I tried a couple of cables and many settings, but no joy. Moved it from HDMI2 to HDMI4, and it sync'd right up (though it does blue screen for a while for the final handshake). I have the 1.11 firmware I believe. I will do some more testing tonight, to make sure all the other devices work in HDMI2, but I was curious if anyone else had seen behavior like this. Hopefully it's not a bad port out of the box (I had serious withdrawl for the ~4 weeks without it). I was VERY careful inserting cables (they even have a warning that ships with it now).


----------



## barrykeck

Hi:


I just received my Anthem AMV 50 pre/pro and MCA 50 Amp. My problem is that I am unable to pass the video signal from Dish Networks HD DVR through the AMV 50 to my Pioneer Elite Pro-HD-1.


My connections are;


Dish HD DVR to AMV50 - Component to Component 1; Analog audio to Sat Analog Audio.


AMV50 to TV - HDMI


Symptoms - I am able to go through the set-up menu so the AMV50 is passing data to the TV. On the menu I set the source for SAT1 to component1 and set up the audio for SAT1 to Analog-??? (DSP, I think). No video signal with great audio. I then went to the TV OUT submenu and set the TV res to the 1080P, still no signal. I then disconnected the componenet video cable from the AMV50 and connected directly to theTV, video signal is excellent.


I also broughtup my settings on the Dish DVR. The TV output settings are

Analog ??? -None (Choices are HRC, IRC, etc.)

Resolution - 1080i

format - 14:9


I seriously need help. I called Anthem tech support and left a message.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just thinking about the future, now that Denon, Onkyo and Sherwood are showing receivers with Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master HD. Will there be an upgrade path (hopefully firmware) for the AVM50 or the D2?



This is more a marketing BS. The reality is that HDMI 1.3 doesn't allow the players to send Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master HD bitstream via HDMI when the disk is encoded in advance mode. The entire disks using these codecs are encoded in advanced mode and therefore the decoding must be performed in the player.


----------



## barrykeck

Following up on my above message. Anthem Tech support thinks its the 1080i bug. I will set up my Dish DVR to output at 720p and see what happens.


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Finally, a subject that is for the most part in my area of interest. I am a very very slow typist, the antithesis of what you would expect from the CEO of a software company but that often affects written responses so ...........if it looks like it would be easier I just might pm or email you with contact info so that it will be less painful and I can easily tap into the best tech resources on the continent!
> 
> 
> To start with everything you want to do is possible and depending on your existing equipment stack and network it may be possible with minimum cost. For example Every device in my HT is addressable both within my home network and from a hotel room in Sydney Australia! It is secure, reliable and stable. There are some easy routes to follow if you already have an XBOX 360 and or a wired or wireless internal home network in place. The quality of 'web surfing ' experience will depend heavily on both your monitor/projector and your graphics card in your PC. Microsoft has in fact just made some announcements at the CES on using VISTA to pretty well make the setup and configuration close to something a houseplant can manage...... BUT and in this business its always a but it depends heavily on your available equipment inventory.
> 
> 
> Soooooo do you have an XBOX 360? what PC graphics card? either wired or wireless network in place? I have a number of devices so I have a gigabit switch in the rack that brings everything together but you may not need that.
> 
> 
> Lets start there..... at a certain point after we have worked out the basic most effective architecture for your equipment and needs there is an aspect of configuration to your monitor from the graphics adapter over DVI that I will ask Bob Pariseau or Levesque to talk you through as the timing and scaling is an important element to the final product that they are more adept at than me.
> 
> 
> So Equipment???????
> 
> 
> Peter




I spoke with Anthem tech support, Nick, a really good guy. He indicated that the AVM50 will recognize a pc as just another video source and will go to work from there. He also indicated that Anthem will, as a result of my call, amend their manual to show that you can hook up a pc to their unit, just as simply as you can hook up a dvd player. I thought that was a big omission. After all, your projector/tv is just another monitor from the pc's perspective, and now I know it's just another video source from the AVM's perspective. This time with the result that AVM will allow one to surf the internet, help control your music, pictures and video, all sitting on the pc with unlimited data storage. Wow, how's that for the AVM being the center of your media hub.

















Well, I've now become a "one page view" expert. It's beginning to apppear that I have 2 basic routes to go. One, wirelessly connect my exisiting Gateway 815GM media center computer, located in another room, that has a s video out connection, ( I believe the AVM50 will accept S video as a source, albeit not verified) the Aver Media TV tuner Philips 1236 MK3 with mpeg video capture, RealTech HD Audio, Radeon x300 Series card and a linksys G wireless broadband 2.4 ghz router already installed, or purchase any computer with windows media center and buy one of the new hdmi video adapter cards that have just come out for approx. $200 and plug and play it with full hdmi from the computer to the AVM50, to my dvi connection on my 720p rgb happy projector. This will allow me to view and hear, via my broadband internet connection, an endless supply of the highest quality digital audio and video content available for download. Coupling the avm with the pc, creates an audio/ video juke box monster extraordinaire!
























I understand that with the new hdmi cards I will get better resolution than the s video out I now have. I'm thinking that the better resolution and lack of wireless strongly points to a separate PC. However, on the cost side, a decent new pc will cost approx $550, plus the card. In both cases I have to spring for a wireless keyboard and mouse, so that's a wash financially. I'm not sure how to set up the wireless connection for the Gateway, i.e., what more I have to buy and the cost, or if I'm missing something.

This is very exciting, to be able to surf the internet, download content, organize pictures, etc. and operate all through Anthem, achieving spectacular a/v quality. Worse case, all for less than $900. Anthem should consider the next upgrade to include this capability built into the AVM50/Statement. They could do it for less than buying this capability separately and it would take the Anthem into being the true center of the home media experience. I would think it wouldn't take much to marry this together at Anthem.


Looking forward to your thoughts and those of the Board. I may be getting overly excited, but this really opened up a new frontier for me! I had no idea you could buy a hdmi video adapter card or if it would work with the AVM50.


----------



## buyrightlow

FYI, here's the tech spec on the hdmi video card:


Overview


Step-up to serious 3D performance and a high-definition image quality with the VisionTek® Radeon® X1600 Pro 256 MB PCI-E® HDMI Graphics Card. Avivo video and HDMI (audio and video mixing) technology capable of transferring up to 24 bits of data at 165 mega pixels per second, ensures today's video and audio standards' requirements, 1080i resolution for HDTVs and state-of-the-art digital audio formats such as DVD-Audio. It supports HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection) hardware decoding for HDTV, Blu-ray and HD-DVD applications for 1080i video quality. The Radeon® X1600 is CrossFire Ready to deliver multi-GPU gaming performance. High Dynamic Range features visual effects, and enhances realism with adaptive anti-aliasing and lightening fast performance. HDMI (high-definition multimedia interface) standard incorporates audio and video into a single connector on the graphics card to synchronize the audio and video signals to HDMI digital TV with the bundled HMDI cable.


Manufacturer Part# : VX1600PRO256HD

Dell Part# : A0741954

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------





Highlights


Supports HDMI Signal Mixing for Audio and Video Simultaneously output with HDCP hardware decoding

CrossFire Ready to deliver gaming experience with multi-GPU power that works with all games

Supports DirectX® Shader Model 3.0 and OpenGL 2.0 optimizations


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------





__USERID__
http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/p...9&sku=A0741954 

Customer Product Reviews Review This Product


accessories.us.dell.com/sna/ReviewsSubmit.aspx?c=us&l=en&cs=19&sku=A0741954 





Tech Specs



Features Features

256-Bit ring bus, 12-pixel shader engines, CrossFire ready, Ultra threaded core, HDCP on board Includes HMDI Cable,HDMI to DVI-D Adapter / HDMI to HDMI/Component HDTV Cables / SPDIF Adapter ATI CrossFire Technology

Analog Video Format Device Type

Component video Graphics adapter

Device Type Digital Video Standard

Graphics Card Digital Visual Interface (DVI), High-Definition Multimedia Interface (HDMI)

Enclosure Type Interface Type

Plug-in card PCI Express x16

Interface Type Port(s) Total ( Free ) / Connector Type

PCI-E® DVI-D / VGA / HDMI / TV-Out / HDTV Connectors

Slot(s) Required Software included

16X PCI-E® Drivers & Utilities

Technology Video Output

DDR II SDRAM 2048 x 1536

Graphics Processor / Vendor Graphics Processor / Vendor

ATI Radeon X1600 Pro Radeon® X1600 Pro

Max Resolution (external) Max Resolution (external)

2048 x 1536 2048x1536 Pixels

Supported Display Graphics Video Memory Installed ( Max )

VGA (640x480), XGA (1024x768), SVGA (800x600), SXGA (1280x1024), UXGA (1600x1200), HDTV (1920x1080), UXGAW (1900x1200), QXGA (2048x1536), 1152x864, 1920x1200, 1920x1440 256 MB

Video Memory Installed ( Max ) API Supported

256 MB - DDR II SDRAM Shader Model 3.0, OpenGL® 2.0

Video Compression Standards Compatibility

MPEG-2, MPEG-4 PC

Product Description Cables Included

VisionTek Radeon X1600 PRO - graphics adapter - Radeon X1600 Pro - 256 MB 1 x HDMI-DVI cable ¦ 1 x HDMI cable ¦ 1 x HDTV cable

Interfaces Compatible Slots

1 x VGA - 15 pin HD D-Sub (HD-15) ¦ 1 x DVI-D - 24 pin digital DVI ( with adapter ) ¦ 1 x HDMI ¦ 1 x HDTV output ( on supplied cable ) ¦ 1 x TV-out ( on supplied cable ) 1 x PCI Express x16

TV Interface Video Memory Installed

HDTV out 256 MB


----------



## LEVESQUE

buyrightlow


You should see the new NVidia 8800 GTX... That's what I'm using in my HTPC.







It's the first true DirectX 10 card.


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> buyrightlow
> 
> 
> You should see the new NVidia 8800 GTX... That's what I'm using in my HTPC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's the first true DirectX 10 card.




I took a quick look at the specs, it appears to only have dvi, not hdmi out. How does it do audio?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrykeck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Following up on my above message. Anthem Tech support thinks its the 1080i bug. I will set up my Dish DVR to output at 720p and see what happens.



Barry,

Also be sure to check that the Anthem's Setup / Source Select for the SAT1 input is set to have Component in the Scaler Input line AS WELL AS in the Component Input line. Otherwise no signal goes to the video scaler for the Main path and thus nothing to the TV on the Main output.


There are two separate lines here in this Setup menu so that you can specify one input (HDMI1 perhaps) for the Main path through the scaler while also setting a second input (Component1) to be "passed through" to the Zone 2 output.


That said, it is also quite possible that you've been bitten by the 1080i bug. I do hope Anthem gets the fix out on that one soon.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow, how's that for the AVM being the center of your media hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will allow me to view and hear, via my broadband internet connection, an endless supply of the highest quality digital audio and video content available for download. Coupling the avm with the pc, creates an audio/ video juke box monster extraordinaire!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to your thoughts and those of the Board. I may be getting overly excited, but this really opened up a new frontier for me! I had no idea you could buy a hdmi video adapter card or if it would work with the AVM50.



Actually you are peering through the opening to pandoras box!!!! If you keep heading down this path you inevitably will have to say goodbye to the wife and kids.


Stuff to consider............The platform that is most likely to bring the application layer into a single consolidated platform that the Anthem can deliver will be Vista so any hardware decisions should be Vista Ultimate capable. The graphics engine you have described sounds ideal. I have my media center buy all my itunes 'stuff'and then distribute it to the appropriate device for the occasion. One single library that also accomodates the sony dvp777es carosel for sacd/hdcd music integration into the library. The escient box that manages the library on my 10ft screen is prettier than most other internet freebie software and it does internet radio (the quality and range of material is almost beyond belief as well as sd DVD's.

I am NOT happy as yet with the 1080i through component from the HP z558 entertainment center with respect to desktop surfing as I was unable to get a prohibitively expensive hdmi to dvi cable to work through the D2. In fairness to Anthem I have not tried it since upgrading successfully to 1.1 so the upgrade MAY have fixed the connection, I just haven't tried it yet.


I have wired and wireless connectivity to everything. I have found the linksys SRX 400 to be the best performer for wireless and Cisco Gigabit 'stuff' for the CAT 5 broadband. Vista ultimate on one of my laptops is opening a ton of possibilities as I am about to set up an HD video conferencing capability from home to the office.


When I pause a movie with the Harmony remote the following suite of actions takes place without a single programmed macro.... The Fireplace comes on......this placates my wife, The cieling fan comes on.....special insulated ballast to prevent any interference....but it keeps the air circulating... the lights come slowly up down the corridor back into the main part of the house and in the pantry for my root beer and popcorn.....meanwhile the D2 switches to a preselected internet station for quiet mood music to keep my wife reasonably patient while I micro the popcorn. while the music is playing a preseleted slide show of my Canon photorraphs(I use thumbs plus) provides an additional distraction till i get back to the theater with food and drink in hand. When I hit the play botton on the Harmony the Fan shuts off, fireplace shuts off, lights in the house and theater go down slowly to off and the movie picks up where we left off. I am in the process of trying to add a 22 terabyte Raid 5 NAS for managed copy for my SD movie library but I am not happy with the steps to get the content in a usable state without the nightmare of utilities that we are forced to contemplate to deliver the streams to the D2. All of this, and I mean ALL is visible on the vista desktop including the projector, phone and security system for the house.

So as I said at the outset if you continue down this path get ready to give up part of your life! You are also right....all of this is made possible without diluting the quality of the experience because of the Anthem device. AAaaand I still don't think I have scratched the surface!


Peter


----------



## barrykeck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Barry,
> 
> Also be sure to check that the Anthem's Setup / Source Select for the SAT1 input is set to have Component in the Scaler Input line AS WELL AS in the Component Input line. Otherwise no signal goes to the video scaler for the Main path and thus nothing to the TV on the Main output.
> 
> 
> There are two separate lines here in this Setup menu so that you can specify one input (HDMI1 perhaps) for the Main path through the scaler while also setting a second input (Component1) to be "passed through" to the Zone 2 output.
> 
> 
> That said, it is also quite possible that you've been bitten by the 1080i bug. I do hope Anthem gets the fix out on that one soon.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob:


I have the scaler set to Component 1, so when I went home I set the Dish Networks HD DVR to output 720p instead of1080i and presto I have a picture. All SD programs had such a terrible pulse to them that I couldn't watch them ( any advertising text on a program or commercial would pulse bigger and smaller). I changed the DVR output to 480i and the pulsing wasn't as bad but SD programs looked like they had a dreamlike effect (like a soft lens on a camera) and all programs HD and SD have a sense of a slow motion effect. My dealer suggests changing the MVA50's TV output res to 1080i 30hz - I now have it set to 1080p 24hz. I'll try it, but I am afraid if the 1080i fix doesn't happen soon, I will have to return my purchase.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrykeck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob:
> 
> 
> I have the scaler set to Component 1, so when I went home I set the Dish Networks HD DVR to output 720p instead of1080i and presto I have a picture. All SD programs had such a terrible pulse to them that I couldn't watch them ( any advertising text on a program or commercial would pulse bigger and smaller). I changed the DVR output to 480i and the pulsing wasn't as bad but SD programs looked like they had a dreamlike effect (like a soft lens on a camera) and all programs HD and SD have a sense of a slow motion effect. My dealer suggests changing the MVA50's TV output res to 1080i 30hz - I now have it set to 1080p 24hz. I'll try it, but I am afraid if the 1080i fix doesn't happen soon, I will have to return my purchase.



Barry,

Yes it sounds like you have been hit with the 1080 bug. Be aware that for some people it also appears to be triggered by settings on the output side.


If your display will accept 720p input, try setting all source devices to 480i for SDTV (including standard DVDs) and 720p for HDTV, and also set your video output to 720p. This is just a workaround of course.


You will likely need to power cycle the Anthem after making these setup changes. Once the Anthem video board has been affected by this 1080 bug, apparently a power cycle (after changing source and/or display settings) is the only way to actually clear it and get things working properly again. And 1080 input from one device, if you have this bug, will also then screw up even NON-1080 input from other devices until you change settings and power cycle the Anthem.


Be sure to let Anthem tech support know what you are doing here. They are probably keeping a list of people who are willing to try potential bug fix versions of the software.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So there's apparently still a type of HDMI confusion which causes the Anthem video circuit to go bonkers. And yes, a brief power cycle of the Anthem is the only way to fix it. However in my case it is so rare as to hardly be an issue. I've been assuming it was because I had not yet upgraded my video OUTPUT cable.
> 
> 
> If you are getting it fairly repeatably using the Toshiba A2, then this may be something Anthem can finally track down and eliminate....
> 
> 
> Are you only getting that from the Toshiba A2?
> 
> --Bob



Sounds similar to some of my problems. My issues are sometimes picture, rarely, and still sound.


To confuse things I have two replacement products in the mix, an XA2 & a BDP-HD1. After going to CES, and looking at the new LG HD-Blu multi, there always seem to be trade offs (CODECs, menus, etc.) so it's separate high qual players for now. Maybe the 59AVi will be retired after all.


I sure would like the anthem to have 3 buttons to do LBX, Anamorphic, and scaled to fit vertical. It would be a much smoother product.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I spoke with Anthem tech support, Nick, a really good guy. He indicated that the AVM50 will recognize a pc as just another video source and will go to work from there. He also indicated that Anthem will, as a result of my call, amend their manual to show that you can hook up a pc to their unit, just as simply as you can hook up a dvd player.



I wished it worked that easily for me (it didn't which is why a 1080p switch after the Anthem to switch in two computers without going through the Anthem. Did a miracle occur in a late software rev?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH ---
> 
> 
> I'm here at CES and Sony is my PRIMARY TARGET to
> 
> GET INFO FROM and COMPLAIN TO about the *Ruby*
> 
> and *Pearl* - for whatever that is good for!
> 
> 
> I'll let you know if I get any answers that are helpful.



In the huge pavilion Sony didn't even show there HT projectors, only the 4K projector on the big screen. What gives?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Whoa! I'm in line to purchase the new JVC DLA proj which accepts 1080p24 and was ready to pull the trigger on a D2 or AVM50 unit this week.



I can tell you that the non 1080/24 JVC HD2K (DVI) is rock solid at 60. I think it's a whole different animal than the Sony's so I would wait for a JVC test of the new projector (didn't see it at CE, model #?) and not be jaded by the Ruby/Pearl experience. The result may be identical in terms of issues, but it's comparing apples and oranges (or future yet to be tested with Anthem oranges).


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blaine* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque - I have the option of upgrading my DV-79AVi to the BDP-HD1 but for now I have a PS3 doing my Blu-Ray duty.
> 
> 
> Can you think of a reason why the BDP-HD1 would be worth the upgrade (costing $500-$1000) over my existing DV-79AVi+PS3?
> 
> 
> My setup is similar = Statement D2, Sony Pearl PJ.



I can't think of any reason either, particularly happy with my 59AVi and after finally getting a BT remote for the PS3... but I did.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In the huge pavilion Sony didn't even show there HT projectors, only the 4K projector on the big screen. What gives?



If you read some of my earlier posts from the SHOW,

you will see ---


Their Cop-Out was - *it was the wrong show.*

*They only show PJs at CEDIA.
*

Too bad every other PJ manufacturer did not know

that because 100% of them were there with live PJs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We had at least one poster here say that he'd gotten "press and hold" button functions working properly between the Harmony 880 Remote and the Anthem D2. These would be things like the "7" key which work differently if you press them than if you press-and-hold them for a few seconds.


I need details on how to get this to work.


Thanks!

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We had at least one poster here say that he'd gotten "press and hold" button functions working properly between the Harmony 880 Remote and the Anthem D2. These would be things like the "7" key which work differently if you press them than if you press-and-hold them for a few seconds.
> 
> 
> I need details on how to get this to work.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> --Bob



I don't use the HARMONY - I use a Crestron System.


On Crestron it is trivial. You just set the output duration for a HOLD Function.


I'm pretty sure Pronto has the same capability.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you read some of my earlier posts from the SHOW,
> 
> you will see ---
> 
> 
> Their Cop-Out was - *it was the wrong show.*



I just caught up on the three pages since I left. Sorry I missed you. I was at the Sony pavilion about 30 mins before first day of general admission open and out of 15 people I asked nobody knew. Dopes.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't use the HARMONY - I use a Crestron System.
> 
> 
> On Crestron it is trivial. You just set the output duration for a HOLD Function.
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure Pronto has the same capability.



It doesn't work on the Aurora 950, 900 URC series which does have the capability.


How about some DIRECT button presses for aspect ratio changes???? Anthem??? Please.


----------



## budeone

In the settings the owner of the AV store told me to take off 4:2:2 and put on RGB.


It this correct?


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wished it worked that easily for me (it didn't which is why a 1080p switch after the Anthem to switch in two computers without going through the Anthem. Did a miracle occur in a late software rev?




Now you've got me worried, I wonder if others have had any problems with the Anthem recognizing the pc as a video source. I'd like to see that before I invest the time and money into setting up what would be a fantastic feature.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now you've got me worried, I wonder if others have had any problems with the Anthem recognizing the pc as a video source. I'd like to see that before I invest the time and money into setting up what would be a fantastic feature.



I'm not exactly sure what you are asking but as noted earlier I have the HP z558 Entertainment center (analogous to a media center pc) running 1080i over component to the D2 and then 1080P to the Ruby. Everything works well with my only complaint being that I think the timing for computer desktop graphics can be improved and I'm not sure how to do that. Also as noted earlier I could not get the DVI to HDMI cable to work at all under ver 1.0 (D2) so I switched over to Component. I haven't tried to retest the cable with ver 1.1 (D2).


Peter


----------



## Nevr2Big




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can tell you that the non 1080/24 JVC HD2K (DVI) is rock solid at 60. I think it's a whole different animal than the Sony's so I would wait for a JVC test of the new projector (didn't see it at CE, model #?) and not be jaded by the Ruby/Pearl experience. The result may be identical in terms of issues, but it's comparing apples and oranges (or future yet to be tested with Anthem oranges).



It was kinda there (off site at Ceasars). The model is JVD RS-1 (aka HD-1).


It is sounding more and more like this is a Sony problem rather than Anthem. Once the projector ships I am sure many will be trying to send it 1080p/24 so it should be evident where this problem lies. Hopefully it will be a sweet Anthem navel and not the poison Sony apple.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In the settings the owner of the AV store told me to take off 4:2:2 and put on RGB.
> 
> 
> It this correct?




It is better to use 4:2:2 but your display need to be compatible with that Data Format. The second best is 4:4:4. RGB should be set only if your display does not take neither 4:4:4 nor 4:2:2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is better to use 4:2:2 but your display need to be compatible with that Data Format. The second best is 4:4:4. RGB should be set only if your display does not take neither 4:4:4 nor 4:2:2.



"Standard" for HDMI to HDMI connections is YCbCr 4:4:4.


"Optional" and *POSSIBLY* superior for HDMI to HDMI is YCbCr 4:2:2. This can only be "better" if the devices at both ends will support greater than 8 bit samples (as the Anthem does).


YCbCr 4:2:2 comes in 3 different flavors -- 8 bits per sample, 10 bits per sample, or 12 bits per sample. This is typically selected automatically by the devices at either end of the cable -- they use the highest sample size they both support. YCbCr 4:4:4 always uses 8 bits per sample (at least until HDMI V1.3 connections arrive). YCbCr 4:2:2 supports the higher sample size because it only sends one color sample for each two luminance samples across each line.


"Standard" for HDMI to DVI connections or DVI to HDMI connections intended for home theater use is RGB. HDMI devices will typically also handle RGB for when they are connected to a DVI device, but RGB should only be used if YCbCr won't work -- as when either end is DVI.


"Standard" for HDMI to DVI connections or DVI to HDMI connections intended for use with typical computer graphics cards is Extended RGB. If the DVI side of your connection can be set to use just RGB (also called "Studio RGB"), then that's the one to use. Only use Extended RGB if the DVI side of your connection gives you no option to do otherwise. Typically any DVI connection with HDCP will either offer a setting for "set top box or DVD" vs. for "PC or computer", or will warn you that it is ONLY intended to be used for "set top box or DVD". The "set top box or DVD" setting is the one you want for Studio RGB.


Another way these are identified is Studio RGB means Black = 16. Extended RGB means Black = 0.

--Bob


----------



## sfield

I had to put a Gefen DVI detective between the HTPC and the Anthem D2, in order to get video output from the HTPC (via DVI). This solution has worked well for other people since then.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now you've got me worried, I wonder if others have had any problems with the Anthem recognizing the pc as a video source. I'd like to see that before I invest the time and money into setting up what would be a fantastic feature.


----------



## sfield

It would be GREAT if Anthem published the proper values for some of the more common HDMI equipment on the market today. I assume Anthem tests many source components, so this should be relatively easy to publish.


Failing that, is anybody aware of publicly confirmed information for some of the components such as:

Sony projectors (pearl, ruby, etc)

HD-DVD and Blu-ray players



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> "Standard" for HDMI to HDMI connections is YCbCr 4:4:4.
> 
> 
> "Optional" and *POSSIBLY* superior for HDMI to HDMI is YCbCr 4:2:2. This can only be "better" if the devices at both ends will support greater than 8 bit samples (as the Anthem does).
> 
> 
> YCbCr 4:2:2 comes in 3 different flavors -- 8 bits per sample, 10 bits per sample, or 12 bits per sample. This is typically selected automatically by the devices at either end of the cable -- they use the highest sample size they both support. YCbCr 4:4:4 always uses 8 bits per sample (at least until HDMI V1.3 connections arrive). YCbCr 4:2:2 supports the higher sample size because it only sends one color sample for each two luminance samples across each line.
> 
> 
> "Standard" for HDMI to DVI connections or DVI to HDMI connections intended for home theater use is RGB. HDMI devices will typically also handle RGB for when they are connected to a DVI device, but RGB should only be used if YCbCr won't work -- as when either end is DVI.
> 
> 
> "Standard" for HDMI to DVI connections or DVI to HDMI connections intended for use with typical computer graphics cards is Extended RGB. If the DVI side of your connection can be set to use just RGB (also called "Studio RGB"), then that's the one to use. Only use Extended RGB if the DVI side of your connection gives you no option to do otherwise. Typically any DVI connection with HDCP will either offer a setting for "set top box or DVD" vs. for "PC or computer", or will warn you that it is ONLY intended to be used for "set top box or DVD". The "set top box or DVD" setting is the one you want for Studio RGB.
> 
> 
> Another way these are identified is Studio RGB means Black = 16. Extended RGB means Black = 0.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It would be GREAT if Anthem published the proper values for some of the more common HDMI equipment on the market today. I assume Anthem tests many source components, so this should be relatively easy to publish.
> 
> 
> Failing that, is anybody aware of publicly confirmed information for some of the components such as:
> 
> Sony projectors (pearl, ruby, etc)
> 
> HD-DVD and Blu-ray players



(Stuidio) RGB is a safe bet for any DVI device intended for home theater use. This would include cable TV or satellite boxes when using DVI output for example, or home theater projectors when using DVI input.


YCbCr 4:4:4 is a safe bet for HDMI V1.1 or later connections.


For HDMI V1.0 connections you may run into devices that ONLY support RGB. The Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD player -- one of the first HDMI source devices -- is just such a case.


YCbCr 4:2:2 will typically be mentioned explicitly in the owner's manual for any HDMI device if it is actually available as an optional setting. Look closely for any hints as to whether the implementation is for 8, 10, or 12 bit samples. If for 10 or 12 bit samples, then using YCbCr 4:2:2 to or from the Anthem is well worth a try. You will have to judge by eye which works better for you. I suggest you look at gray scale and color ramps if you can get them. 8 bit YCbCr 4:2:2, on the other hand, should only be used if you have no other choice.


Also be aware that *MANY* HDMI source devices use a particular, almost industry standard, HDMI output chip that has a bug. It clips Blacker than Black and Peak White data when asked to do the conversion from YCbCr to RGB -- as for example when outputting to a DVI device, but also if you force RGB output on your own. It is possible for the manufacturer to work around this (as Pioneer has done with their older 59avi player -- basically the player has to do the conversion to RGB itself before passing the data to the output chip), but most manufacturers don't give a poop about DVI anymore so they don't bother.


Even some of the new HD-DVD and Blue Ray players have this chip and this DVI clipping bug.


I'm hoping, but not certain, that the new HDMI V1.3 output chips will not have this bug.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k

Can anyone explain what exactly difference is between the YCbCr 4:4:4, YCbCr 4:2:2, and RGB are? It has been explained when these should be used, but not sure what it really means.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can anyone explain what exactly difference is between the YCbCr 4:4:4, YCbCr 4:2:2, and RGB are? It has been explained when these should be used, but not sure what it really means.



Each signal consists of three channels of information. RGB is simpler to understand. It is a Red, Green, and Blue value -- one of each for each pixel. RGB for devices of interest to us here uses 8 bits per pixel for each of these. Thus you get a 24 bit value representing a mixture of 256 different values for each of R, G, and B.


Now you might assume that Black is a 0 value for each of these and White is a 255 value for each of these, and indeed that's the way it works for "Extended RGB". However when you do video processing of various sorts, the algorithms have trouble near black and near white because the image data has a sharp cutoff right there. There's no "headroom" for the algorithms to take advantage of -- letting things floating around a bit above and below Black and White. And you can get some artifacts because of this.


So video stuff is NOT set up that way. Instead "Studio RGB" uses a value of 16 for each of R, G, and B to represent Black. Reference White is 235 for each. The range from 1 to 15 is the Blacker than Black imaging data -- not intended to be seen, but still in there to make things work better. The range from 236 to 254 is the Peak White data, that IS intended to be seen, but content producers are careful to make sure things still look pretty good for TVs that can't reproduce different shades of white above Reference White. The values of 0 and 255 are reserved.


OK so much for RGB.


Now think of what happens when you get near black, for example. The eye is much more sensitive to shades of gray and to resolution of grays than it is to colors. There aren't that many steps available to keep one or the other color from kind of dominating things, so there is a different way of recording this stuff that works better.


Instead of recording the three primary colors you record a "luminance" signal -- basically the brightness of gray, plus two channels of "color difference" information that says how to color that gray appropriately. In YCbCr the Y signal is the gray scale luminance and the Cb and Cr are the color difference channels.


You will also sometimes encounter YPbPr, which is the same thing, but, properly, represents an analog signal whereas YCbCr is for a digital signal.


Now YCbCr 4:4:4 means that for each pixel you have one sample each for the three channels. Don't ask me to explain what 4:4:4 has to do with this. It is not something man is meant to wot of.


For the devices of interest to us here, each pixel is represented by 8 bits each of Y, Cb, and Cr. And as with Studio RGB, the values for Black and Reference White are 16 and 235 respectively (in the Y signal -- the color difference signals would be at the value that indicates "add no color"). For HDMI V1.3, the "Deep Color" stuff folks are talking about will allow that to extend to 10 bits each or 12 bits each.


Pretty straightforward so far, right? Now it gets funky.


The eye isn't capable of resolving color detail as finely as it can resolve gray scale detail, and back at the dawn of time TV people took advantage of this by only sending color info at half the resolution of gray scale info.


A 480i standard def TV signal has only half as many color samples across each line as it has gray scale samples. It's even worse for analog broadcast signals since color is encoded as kind of a "too rapid" change of gray scale -- which is why you see false colors when someone wears a striped shirt for example.


And YCbCr 4:2:2 is the digital video form of this. It has one color sample for every TWO luminance samples. Like this: Y, Cb,Y,Cr,Y,Cb,Y,Cr.


Now if your connection is able to handle 24 bits per pixel (as is used with RGB or YCbCr 4:4:4) then you can USE this reduction in color resolution to send bigger samples!


Again, your choices are 8 bit, 10 bit, or 12 bit. 8 bit is no fun. It has no better info than YCbCr 4:4:4 and you've ALSO cut the horizontal color resolution in half!


But 10 bit or 12 bit can be pretty nifty. If you send each of the Y, Cb, and Cr channels at 12 bits per sample you still, on the average, send 24 bits per pixel. It fits! But you've got more "dynamic range" for representing gray scale and color scale data.


Well that won't look good will it? You are throwing away half the color! Guess what. It looks just fine because, as stated the eye can't SEE color detail that well.


In fact standard DVD imagery is EVEN WORSE than this! The data on the DVD disc is encoded in what's called YCbCr 4:2:0. And what that means is that you've not only halved the HORIZONTAL color resolution, but you've ALSO halved the VERTICAL color resolution!


Your TV never sees YCbCr 4:2:0. Every DVD player -- even the old, original, non-progressive style players -- "reconstitutes" the vertical color info. I.e., it converts YCbCr 4:2:0 to YCbCr 4:2:2 as part of decoding the data off the disc. It's another kind of "scaling". It is tricky because of differences in video-based and film-based content. Players that screwed this up suffered from the now infamous Color Upsampling Error or "CUE".


And what's worse, the sample size on the DVD is only 8 bits! So you get all the loss of color resolution -- both horizontaly and vertically -- and no gain in data quality. Why do they do this? Because otherwise the movie wouldn't fit on the disc, or it could only be made to fit by cranking up the MPEG2 compression so high that the compression defects would be unignorable.


Next step: Players with digital outputs now have to decide whether to send out that YCbCr 4:2:2 they just created on the fly from the YCbCr 4:2:0 on the disc, and if so whether to leave it at 8 bits or "scale" it up to 10 or 12 bits, *OR* convert it to YCbCr 4:4:4 (8 bit samples) by "reconstituting" the horizontal color resolution as well. Alternatively they could convert it to RGB (8 bit samples) which also requires them to reconstitute the horizontal color resolution.


So if the device you are hooking to the Anthem supports YCbCr 4:2:2 at 10 or 12 bits it *MIGHT* give you better results than YCbCr 4:4:4. Or it might not.


But the only point in doing YCbCr 4:2:2 at 8 bits would be if you believe the source device has a bug in the way it produces YCbCr 4:4:4.


The only way to tell is to try it, calibrating both ways separately, and see for yourself which you like better.

--Bob


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a Anthem D2/AVM-50 feeding an Optoma HD70, by chance? I picked up the DLP projector this evening for game nights with the buddies and I've read elsewhere on the forum that the projector accepts 1080p/60 (though it scales it back down to 720p/60). This was attractive to me as I could keep my Anthem's scaler at 1080p/60 and feed my 1080p tv and my 720p PJ at the same time, without toggling resolutions.
> 
> 
> However, I can't get the PJ to accept 1080p/60. It accepts 1080p/24, 1080p/25, and 1080p/30 with stuttering, but it can't find the signal on 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> Ok, with that said, I'm temporarily using (until my HDMI cable arrives next week) a DVI-DVI cable with an DVI->HDMI adapter at each end. Could this possibly be my problem? Should I mess with the Anthem's frame lock properties or something instead?



I just wanted to follow up on my post from a week or so ago and say that it was indeed a problem of having too many DVI-HDMI adapters on my DVI cable. My Monoprice HDMI cable arrived today and I'm now feeding 1080p/60 to the Optoma with no problems.


Thanks for the help, everyone!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But the only point in doing YCbCr 4:2:2 at 8 bits would be if you believe the source device has a bug in the way it produces YCbCr 4:4:4.
> 
> 
> The only way to tell is to try it, calibrating both ways separately, and see for yourself which you like better.
> 
> --Bob




Really good explanation Bob.


My understanding is also that when you are using 4:2:2, even if your source (such as DVD) got only 8bits, it does allows for the processing to be performed over a 10 to 12 bits resolutions to be at the end of all the processing to be truncated to 8bits resolution before being sent to the display. This reduces the impact of rounding error.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Really good explanation Bob.
> 
> 
> My understanding is also that when you are using 4:2:2, even if your source (such as DVD) got only 8bits, it does allows for the processing to be performed over a 10 to 12 bits resolutions to be at the end of all the processing to be truncated to 8bits resolution before being sent to the display. This reduces the impact of rounding error.



Yes, but understand that rounding error is just not that big a deal as regards transmission between devices.


What people are USUALLY seeing when they discuss such stuff is more typically incorrect Gamma Correction or simply improper set up of gray and color ramps to begin with.


Doing the math with more bits helps much like upsampling audio to 192KHz helps in the D2. It makes the math easier which means you can do more stuff in the same time instead of being cleverer about how you do it (which takes time).


But at the point where you want to send stuff between devices, reverting to the original sample size just isn't that bad.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It was kinda there (off site at Ceasars). The model is JVD RS-1 (aka HD-1).



Thanks man, I know you'll love the JVC.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now you've got me worried, I wonder if others have had any problems with the Anthem recognizing the pc as a video source. I'd like to see that before I invest the time and money into setting up what would be a fantastic feature.



I give Peter kudos for getting component out of a PC to work, but component out of anything (analog) shouldn't be hard.


The real target is pixel by pixel HTPC to projector, by DVI or HDMI out of the PC. I have NOT been able to get that top work through the Anthem, even in "pass through" of 1920x1080 in to 1920x1080 out. Switching after the Anthem (HDMI high bandwidth switch) works fine, though it complicates the macros marginally, including every few weeks I pull my hair out trying to figure why I have no video and the post-Anthem switch is set incorrectly. Like Peter I have not tested later software revs.


Nick is great so if he says it works maybe it does, it's not as simple as plugging in an AV device though, even if it does work.


----------



## neff2k

Never seems to amaze me the knowledge of some people on this forum. Not only knowledge but the ability to break it down into words in a way that us people not so literate into the field jargan can understand. Thank you for taking the time to type out that explanation Bob. You know I use to think the scariest place ever was inside my wife's head, I have started to question that of lately. Please tell me you at least have a book open sitting off to the side that you read from when responding to these questions. Whew!


On that note off to have a beer! oh and some dinner.


----------



## KCWolfPck

Hey all.....I was wondering if you all could suggest an optimal setting for my room resonance filter. I set my volume to 10db below reference and measured the sound level of each without applying the filter.


SPL determined by the RS SPL meter set on C weaighting and slow response:


18hz 80 db

21hz 84 db

24hz 90 db

27hz 92 db

30hz 93 db

33hz 94 db

36hz 94 db

39hz 91 db

42hz 89 db

45hz 88 db

48hz 84 db

51hz 80.5 db

54hz 76 db

57hz 71.5 db

60hz 72 db

63hz 75 d

66hz 81 db

69hz 83 db

72hz 81 db

75hz 75.5 db

78hz 75 db


Also, if you think that I may have some problems with my crossover point that would help too.


My current speaker settings are all set to small with crossover of the front speakers set to 60hz....the rest at 80hz. My mains are Martin Logans Ascents (rated down to 35hz) and my sub is a ML Descent rated down to 18hz. Sub has the low pass filter set to 70hz.


Help or suggestions appreciated.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey all.....I was wondering if you all could suggest an optimal setting for my room resonance filter. I set my volume to 10db below reference and measured the sound level of each without applying the filter.
> 
> 
> SPL determined by the RS SPL meter set on C weaighting and slow response:
> 
> 
> 18hz 80 db
> 
> 21hz 84 db
> 
> 24hz 90 db
> 
> 27hz 92 db
> 
> 30hz 93 db
> 
> 33hz 94 db
> 
> 36hz 94 db
> 
> 39hz 91 db
> 
> 42hz 89 db
> 
> 45hz 88 db
> 
> 48hz 84 db
> 
> 51hz 80.5 db
> 
> 54hz 76 db
> 
> 57hz 71.5 db
> 
> 60hz 72 db
> 
> 63hz 75 d
> 
> 66hz 81 db
> 
> 69hz 83 db
> 
> 72hz 81 db
> 
> 75hz 75.5 db
> 
> 78hz 75 db
> 
> 
> Also, if you think that I may have some problems with my crossover point that would help too.
> 
> 
> My current speaker settings are all set to small with crossover of the front speakers set to 60hz....the rest at 80hz. My mains are Martin Logans Ascents (rated down to 35hz) and my sub is a ML Descent rated down to 18hz. Sub has the low pass filter set to 70hz.
> 
> 
> Help or suggestions appreciated.




Have you tried switching the phase switch to 180 instead of zero or vice versa? There might be a cancellation effect on your crossover frequency of 60 hz. If this works the difference between your highest and lowest SPL reading will not be as great and you can find the offending resonant freq. in your room quite easily.


I dont know if the RS meter would work well in your situation as you might factor in corrective values to make the reading accurate.


----------



## runnerlk

I am getting a JL Audio Fathom 113 today and trying to determine whether I should manage it through the D2 or the sub? Currently I have a Velo SPLR-1000, which is managed by the D2, however the 113 is much more sophisticated. Also it is suggested I use the balanced vs RCA. Any thoughts?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sub has the low pass filter set to 70hz.
> 
> 
> Help or suggestions appreciated.



Why would you have the low pass on at all? Can you disable it? Seems like you are creating a hole here. Isn't the sub's low pass redundant since you are using the Anthem crossover?


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why would you have the low pass on at all? Can you disable it? Seems like you are creating a hole here. Isn't the sub's low pass redundant since you are using the Anthem crossover?



I just learned that even though my low-pass filter is set to 70hz.....it is bypassed because I am using the LFE input (via balanced XLR connection). So disregard the comment about the low-pass filter.


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I dont know if the RS meter would work well in your situation as you might factor in corrective values to make the reading accurate.



Can you explain what you mean here? Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you explain what you mean here? Thanks.



The Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter from Radio Shack that everyone uses for manual audio level calibration is not completely flat in its response to the lowest frequencies. This can be importatant to folks doing bass response adjustments.


In the Subwoofer forum here, there is a sticky thread that goes into this and provides links to adjustment tables for correcting the readings you get at lower frequencies:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=505236 


*HOWEVER*, very important, read through that thread and DON'T just adopt one of the correction tables linked in the first post of that thread!


The folks working that thread have done additional testing and come to the conclusion that these widely published correction tables -- as linked from the first post in that thread -- are WRONG. They WAY overcorrect.


Later in the thread are links to tables with much more modest correction levels, and the discussion of how they were developed. THOSE are the corrections you want to use.


The correction table is nothing more than a list that says for a test (noise) tone at a given frequency -- as generated by the bass response test page in the Anthems for example -- you should add or subtract such and so from the value the Radio Shack SPL meter reads to get the correct reading.


There are two different types of correction table in there: One for people doing this by hand, and one for people to load into a PC program that graphs it automatically. They differ because the PC program processes the table's values a bit before using them.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you explain what you mean here? Thanks.




I think I cannot explain it better than Bob.


It would seem that you have a crossover problem because there is a big dip at around 57 hertz(near the 60hz. crossover frequency) relative your lower frequency values. Why don't you try the default 80hz. crossover point and calibrate the sub level again via D2. I think you will have a better set of values when you use the RS meter.


From the values given, you are really getting earthshaking bass but its 17-22dB more in the deep bass region, you might be hearing a muddied midrange because of this.


----------



## obie_fl

KCWolfPck - Does your sub have a variable phase or 0/180 switch? Even if you raise the crossover to 80 you might have phase problems there too. If you can't adjust the phase on the sub you can try playing with the subs distance setting in the Anthem which is a clever way of changing the phase at your listening position. Another option is placement. Do you have any flexibility in room location for the sub?


----------



## agrsiv95

Has anyone had their D2 turn off after turning it on? I have the 200mv trigger controlling my screen and the D2 will let the screen get about a third of the way down and then shut off so the screen goes back up. It does this at random and it is a little embarrassing when friends are over and it does this.


Jeremy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone had their D2 turn off after turning it on? I have the 200mv trigger controlling my screen and the D2 will let the screen get about a third of the way down and then shut off so the screen goes back up. It does this at random and it is a little embarrassing when friends are over and it does this.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



We've not had any reports of problems like that in this thread.


You could have a faulty D2 of course, but there are some things to try. The first is simply to disconnect the screen from the trigger and see if you still have the problem. If NOT, then it seems likely the screen is drawing too much current on that trigger and the D2 is shutting down to protect itself. Double check the specs for the screen's use of the trigger and double check that you are actually using Trigger 3 -- the higher current trigger on the D2.


Do you have anything else on any of the D2 triggers? It is possible that the overdraw is actually due to one or more of those. Possibly the combination including the screen trigger is just at the edge of what the D2 can support.


If that proves to be the problem, another way to set up a trigger that puts less demand on the D2 is to get a triggerable power strip. Use the D2's trigger to activate the power strip (this is a low current function). Get a 12-volt power brick of the right size from Radio Shack or whatever, plug it in to that power strip, and then use it to power the trigger input on the screen.


Other causes of D2 shutdown would be overheating or a short on one of it's cables.


Finally, if you are using a programmable remote, double check its programming. It is possible that one of the codes it is sending out when you turn everything on actually happens to duplicate or include the code the D2 uses for power off.

--Bob


----------



## drlopezmdfacc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree 100%
> 
> 
> I have the Toshiba XA1(soon to be replaced with the XA2)
> 
> Oppo 970 HD
> 
> sony 777ES (400 disks)
> 
> Escient fireball to find and manage my library (2000)
> 
> XBox 360 with HDDVD
> 
> HP z558 entertainment center with 2 terb (going to 20) of attached storage
> 
> Ruby with a 110" stewart screen (firehawk)
> 
> 
> My best device for SD material is the oppo by far. The D2 loves the 480i over HDMI. I have nothing short of HDDVD that comes anywhere close. The oppo is the ideal transport for the D2....better than the XA1 for sure.
> 
> 
> As far as the wife factor.......first use the same P5 box to bring all the new stuff in and take the old stuff out. "sorry, honey, its flaky equipment that needs alot of maintenance". Then get her her own system with two buttons......Oprah ON and Oprah OFF.
> 
> 
> Peter



I am getting the oppo 970 HD tomorrow to complement the Toshiba A2. My plan was to use the Toshiba for movies (SD and HD) and the oppo for music (esp. SACD/DVD-A).


How should I connect the oppo for best music reproduction on the D2--HDMI or use the 5.1 analog inputs?


If I decide to use the oppo for SD movie viewing, will I be able to use the 5.1 channel music output for SACD/DVDA or will it automatically output everything using HDMI?

Thanks,


p.s. the P5 issue was resolved and the M&K's sure do sound sweet!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am getting the oppo 970 HD tomorrow to complement the Toshiba A2. My plan was to use the Toshiba for movies (SD and HD) and the oppo for music (esp. SACD/DVD-A).
> 
> 
> How should I connect the oppo for best music reproduction on the D2--HDMI or use the 5.1 analog inputs?
> 
> 
> If I decide to use the oppo for SD movie viewing, will I be able to use the 5.1 channel music output for SACD/DVDA or will it automatically output everything using HDMI?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> p.s. the P5 issue was resolved and the M&K's sure do sound sweet!



You can use the analog outputs from the Oppo, but when doing that the quality is based on the quality of the DACs in the Oppo. They're OK, but not as good as in the D2.


So instead, use HDMI, even if you are just playing music, so that the audio remains digital all the way into the D2. You will need to set the Oppo's video output resolution to 720p or 1080i when playing DVD-Audio or SACD that way or you will only get 2 channels of audio. You can use any video resolution for CDs. You could also just use optical audio for CDs but *NOT* for DVD-Audio or SACD.


If you are not using the Oppo for DVDs at all, I'd suggest you just leave it at HDMI 1080i for all music.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone had their D2 turn off after turning it on?



I don't know about shutting off (I think that happened once). But increasingly when I turn on, the Anthem amp being triggered properly, but NO sound. It isn't muted, I test every zone, but no sound. Switching sources, doesn't help. Standing on my head or pretending I'm rabbit ears to cajole it into laughing to make sound ... nothing. Only a power recycle (which includes amp going off and back on also) gets sound back. This isn't an HDMI thing either as I'll start up on Optical audio devices and switch around, still with no sound.


At this point I regret moving up to v11, it seemed much more stable in the "olden days" or earlier software builds.


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

Thanks. I guess that if I use the Oppo for movies then I should manually switch to 480i output to the D2 and let the D2 upconvert the video signal to 1080i or should I just have the Oppo at 1080i ouput for everything?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't know about shutting off (I think that happened once). But increasingly when I turn on, the Anthem amp being triggered properly, but NO sound. It isn't muted, I test every zone, but no sound. Switching sources, doesn't help. Standing on my head or pretending I'm rabbit ears to cajole it into laughing to make sound ... nothing. Only a power recycle (which includes amp going off and back on also) gets sound back. This isn't an HDMI thing either as I'll start up on Optical audio devices and switch around, still with no sound.
> 
> 
> At this point I regret moving up to v11, it seemed much more stable in the "olden days" or earlier software builds.



I think all of this is just going to turn out to be a simple case of the Anthem not properly initializing all its internal operating values at power up, so that it is picking up whatever garbage is left around in memory.


When they added the new, overlayed inputs, and the custom video resolutions, they added a whole bunch of new values that have to be properly retrieved on power up, and a whole bunch of new default values that have to be established as well.


In any event, they really REALLY need to get the fix out for this stuff. It is downright embarrassing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. I guess that if I use the Oppo for movies then I should manually switch to 480i output to the D2 and let the D2 upconvert the video signal to 1080i or should I just have the Oppo at 1080i ouput for everything?



You want to manually switch the Oppo to 480i for standard DVD playback. Its internal de-interlacing and scaling are not anywhere near as good as what the D2 will do.

--Bob


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

Thanks, Bob!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In any event, they really REALLY need to get the fix out for this stuff. It is downright embarrassing.
> 
> --Bob



Roger that. New DVD2, 3, 4 etc are nice features but need to pay attention to the basics (stability, switching, etc.) first and foremost.


----------



## agrsiv95

Thanks Bob,


It is in the 200mv output for the screen. It is the only thing connected to the triggers. The screen doesn't effect it as the fourth time I tried it with the screen trigger unplugged it shut off. I'll keep track of when it happens to see if there is any kind of pattern but I know sources don't affect this.


Jeremy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> It is in the 200mv output for the screen. It is the only thing connected to the triggers. The screen doesn't effect it as the fourth time I tried it with the screen trigger unplugged it shut off. I'll keep track of when it happens to see if there is any kind of pattern but I know sources don't affect this.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



OK, so it is not the triggers.


Get a flashlight and carefully examine both ends of every cable (and socket) to and from the Anthem. What you are looking for is even just one hair of loose wire that might be shorting things -- perhaps when it is blown by a breeze or vibrated. The wiggle test is good here as well. While the D2 is on properly, grab each end of each cable in turn and give it a little wiggle to see if that causes the D2 to shut down. You could have a faulty cable that is shorted internally. Typically this will happen near the plug at either end.


Also consider carefully how the D2 is being ventilated. You might have an over-heating problem. An external fan can help. Others have found simply raising the D2 half an inch by putting a riser under each of its feet also helps. Ideally, the D2 should not "see" additional heat from any other devices, either.


Get one of those infrared, point-to measure, remote heat thermometers as sold in cooking stores -- they type that looks like a gun and often comes with a little laser light as a pointer. You can use that to accurately track the temperature of the surfaces around the D2 and of the D2 itself. The D2 will, normally, get quite warm on the side where the power cord enters (the power supply), but that's OK as long as the ambient temperature around it is still cool enough for it to radiate heat.


Another possiblity here is if you are doing any "unusual" cabling -- for example if you have Y-splitters on any inputs or outputs. If that's set up wrong you may have D2 outputs connected to each other, which will also put a strain on them, or something else unusual like that.


One last thought, make sure you have your timers turned off in the D2. If they've been mistakenly turned on, that alone might explain it's shutdowns.

--Bob


----------



## agrsiv95

Bob,


I have checked the cables but I will do it again to be sure. As for space around it, I have nothing on top (not even another shelf) so there is much for air restriction and I have put my hands around it after a movie and it runs alot cooler then the VP30 I had. I never did anything with the timers but I will recheck to be sure.


Thanks again for the support, I wish it were like this in all of the forums!


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am getting the oppo 970 HD tomorrow to complement the Toshiba A2. My plan was to use the Toshiba for movies (SD and HD) and the oppo for music (esp. SACD/DVD-A).
> 
> 
> How should I connect the oppo for best music reproduction on the D2--HDMI or use the 5.1 analog inputs?
> 
> 
> If I decide to use the oppo for SD movie viewing, will I be able to use the 5.1 channel music output for SACD/DVDA or will it automatically output everything using HDMI?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> p.s. the P5 issue was resolved and the M&K's sure do sound sweet!



Since we share so much similarity in equipment I would like to reinforce Bob's advice which I discovered by accident but I 'KNEW' I had done something right when I switched to 1080i for SACD. You just have to remember to switch back to 480i for SD DVD's for movies. One of the awesome experiences was playing a SACD source disk at reference level. As the volume crept up I couldn't believe the clarity and the M&K's just sparkled! The sound doesn't get 'louder' it just gets more three dimensional. I have to keep reminding myself how unbelievably rare that acoustical experience is........we few are sooooo fortunate. Glad to hear everything is coming together for you.


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I have checked the cables but I will do it again to be sure. As for space around it, I have nothing on top (not even another shelf) so there is much for air restriction and I have put my hands around it after a movie and it runs alot cooler then the VP30 I had. I never did anything with the timers but I will recheck to be sure.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the support, I wish it were like this in all of the forums!



You are welcome.


By the way, also make sure the D2's power cable is fully inserted, and of course that it is not plugged into some kind of "switched" outlet that might be turning on and off itself.


Now if none of this leads to a solution then you probably have to take the extreme measure of doing a Reload Factory Defaults (to get all its settings into a known state), then disconnect everything from the D2, move it to a different room (so that it is even on a different power circuit), and with just the power cord connected to it, try to power cycle it repeatedly using just the front panel buttons.


If it shuts down during that, then there's nothing for it but to contact Anthem about Warranty replacement.


If you have a PC, you can use the Setup Editor program from Anthem to make a copy of your settings to a file on the PC. That will make it easier to restore everything if you get this unit working or get a replacement from Anthem. Use the Setup Editor that came with the install kit for your current D2 software, or download the latest install kit from Anthem and use the Setup Editor in that one if you don't have the one for your current firmware. I would NOT suggest you update your D2 firmware at this point. Just use the Setup Editor from the kit to save and restore settings between the D2 and a PC file.


If you can't make the unit fail this way, then start restoring things one by one to see when failures start returning.


I'd start by trying it in the same (new room) location, still with nothing connected, but this time using whatever set of remote controls you normally use. Try to replicate the button pushes you normally do when trying to watch something using that screen. This will help eliminate the possibility that a remote control code for some other device is ALSO turning off the D2.


Next, still in the new room, restore your desired set of settings -- either manually using the front panel, or of course much more conveniently using the PC program. Test again.


If there's still no failure, then bring it back into the main listening room and start connecting things up with the OUTPUTS first. Remember to turn off all devices before changing connections. First the connections to the amps (test), then to the display (test), then the screen trigger (test). If things are still woking withhout failure, then start with the input connections one at a time, testing after each.


This is time consuming of course, but the D2 is a complicated switching device and if you don't approach this in a logical fashion you'll have difficulties.

--Bob


----------



## drlopezmdfacc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since we share so much similarity in equipment I would like to reinforce Bob's advice which I discovered by accident but I 'KNEW' I had done something right when I switched to 1080i for SACD. You just have to remember to switch back to 480i for SD DVD's for movies. One of the awesome experiences was playing a SACD source disk at reference level. As the volume crept up I couldn't believe the clarity and the M&K's just sparkled! The sound doesn't get 'louder' it just gets more three dimensional. I have to keep reminding myself how unbelievably rare that acoustical experience is........we few are sooooo fortunate. Glad to hear everything is coming together for you.
> 
> 
> Peter



Do you think that 480i from the oppo looks better than 480i from the toshiba hd-dvd? just wondering...i am getting to test it for myself tomorrw (hopefully!).


----------



## Vikingmd

So I just got an AVM-50. I had everything working perfectly and all of a sudden in the middle of a movie there was no video. I didn't change any settings. I didn't make any adjustments. Please help.


----------



## vince32837

It is posts like this that scare me from jumping into the D2/AVM50 game until these issues are resolved!...


The AVM50/D2 is a complex piece of gear... In my day job, I design electronics for missile applications..Once the entire bird is built, we go through 3-6 months of AUR(All-Up-Round) testing before we ship to the customer.........I have the Anthem MCA50 amp, much simpler robust design, Anthem has it nailed down..........


Once you step up to $4K-6.5K zone for a pre/pro, that's a lot of cash, Anthem needs to step up testing to the "missile-level" before shipping........I doubt that happened..........


The results when it all comes together as many have posted, look impressive, 480i HDMI to 1080P..I'll probably jump in when the issues are resolved..........


my 2 cents,

Vince


----------



## obie_fl

Vince - If Anthem did test to the "missile level" you would be paying a lot more then $4K-6.5K.







I work in the same industry so I have some idea what you mean. I'd also point out that you get a skewed view by reading here because you are likely to read about the issues rather then all the people with successful setups. I've been running a D2 for close to six months and have experienced very few problems. Most of the latest problems seem to stem from a recent firmware upgrade which I did implement on my system without incident. It does appear that this latest update could have been tested a little better before release.


----------



## vince32837

obie_fl,


I agree real in-depth testing costs serious $$$$$$$$....Have for the few guys that have issues, Anthem Customer Service is supposed to be excellent...


I clicked on your link, nice HT setup you have...I did not know you could get a basement in FL?.......No basements here in Orlando that I know of....


Vince


----------



## rlockshin

Has anybdy heard how soon we will have the new software which fixes the 1080i bug?

Have not heard from Nick in weeks

Thanks


----------



## Gregg Bone

As I posted earlier - I've been working with Anthem tech suport getting my Mac HTPC to talk through the D2.


I am now running a version of firmware Nick sent me that resolves the EDID handshake issue, and my HTPC now sees the D2 as a supported DVI device. This is not a complete fix, just a test fix to see if they understood the bug, and I'm happy to say, yes, they now understand it.


There is still some work to do, for example the D2 does not have any EDID entries for interlaced support, so that would force the PC to perform the de-interlacing of 480i content (better in the D2), and they turn off the handshake whenever an HDMI input other than the PC input is selected (causing the PC to detect loss of DVI output device).


For me this is fine for now, as I only intend to have 1080p content come from my Mac HTPC, and the Mac handles DVI disconnect/reconnect in an OK manner. I expect now that they understand how to get it to work at all, they will clean this up in a future release.


Gregg


----------



## JlgLaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anybdy heard how soon we will have the new software which fixes the 1080i bug?
> 
> Have not heard from Nick in weeks
> 
> Thanks




Funny, when I spoke with the Anthem guys at CES they claimed "no knowledge" of any 1080i problem.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JlgLaw* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Funny, when I spoke with the Anthem guys at CES they claimed "no knowledge" of any 1080i problem.



I only talked to one person there on Tuesday Afternoon and HE

Knew about it. I guess it is random luck.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JlgLaw* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Funny, when I spoke with the Anthem guys at CES they claimed "no knowledge" of any 1080i problem.



Not funny, just the usual left hand vs. right hand stuff. The demo droids at the shows are trained to explain features, not deal with engineering issues.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vikingmd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So I just got an AVM-50. I had everything working perfectly and all of a sudden in the middle of a movie there was no video. I didn't change any settings. I didn't make any adjustments. Please help.



The most common reason for this is that one of your plugs came loose -- possibly under the weight of the cable itself. HDMI plugs are only a friction fit and it takes only a tiny bit of looseness to lose the signal.


The next most common reason is that you had a power glitch and one or the other of your devices in the video chain didn't ride it out.


First of all, do you have video again? Do you have audio? If not, power cycle each device, double check which inputs/outputs are selected for each device, and see if it comes back.


If not, double check your cables at each end. Grasp each video cable in turn near its socket and press it firmly STRAIGHT IN to the socket and see if the picture comes back. If that gets you a signal again then you may need to support the cable in some fashion near that socket.


Another common problem, since the AVM-50 is new to you, is that you accidentally hit the remote button to change either the selected input on the AVM-50 or the selected input on the TV itself. It happens. If you've got video again, and no other cause suggests itself, this may be all that it was.

--Bob


----------



## rlockshin

Just spoke with Nick and he is testing 1.11b as I write this. If you have sent him an email about this problem,he should be sending you this version in a few days

If you want this fix,send him an email


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gregg Bone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As I posted earlier - I've been working with Anthem tech suport getting my Mac HTPC to talk through the D2.
> 
> 
> I am now running a version of firmware Nick sent me that resolves the EDID handshake issue, and my HTPC now sees the D2 as a supported DVI device. This is not a complete fix, just a test fix to see if they understood the bug, and I'm happy to say, yes, they now understand it.
> 
> 
> There is still some work to do, for example the D2 does not have any EDID entries for interlaced support, so that would force the PC to perform the de-interlacing of 480i content (better in the D2), and they turn off the handshake whenever an HDMI input other than the PC input is selected (causing the PC to detect loss of DVI output device).
> 
> 
> For me this is fine for now, as I only intend to have 1080p content come from my Mac HTPC, and the Mac handles DVI disconnect/reconnect in an OK manner. I expect now that they understand how to get it to work at all, they will clean this up in a future release.
> 
> 
> Gregg



I'm delighted to see they are taking your problem seriously. This is an area that Anthem has been working on since this past Fall. It would have been easy for them to just ignore the HTPC market, since there are workarounds like DVI Detective. But the fact that they are on the way to a proper solution means to me that they are truly committed to making their video board work completely correctly.


Thanks for the update! By the way, what version number did that test software have?

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not funny, just the usual left hand vs. right hand stuff. The demo droids at the shows are trained to explain features, not deal with engineering issues.
> 
> --Bob



Sooo true!!!


Bob and or Levesque........


I am getting a Tosh XA2 (soon I hope). To date I have been extremely satisfied with the 480i HDMI stream from the Oppo to the D2. Although terrific the Tosh XA1 in my setup is not as 'pristine', for want of a better descriptor, for upconversion as the Oppo.


My question is will this continue to be true with the XA2? Are the silicon improvements I am hearing about for the XA2 reviews likely a better result for SD DVD's than the oppo? Does the upconversion to 1080P in the Tosh XA2 trump the 480I from the oppo and subsequent conversion to 1080P?


Does any of this make sense?


Peter


----------



## rudolpht

OK this is getting ridiculous. Almost every time I start up the Anthem I have to shut down and recycle to get sound.


The EXTRA problem is that devices like the XA2 will start at the beginning because it looses it's HDMI connection on the recycle and starts from the beginning of the disc, which is a royal pain to wait, go through the Copyright screen, wait for the HD DVD feature promotional fingers crossed I have sound, Next chapter, then popup menu to get back where I was. This is BS big time.


----------



## darryl b

ok, first grade question, what are the material differences between D2 and AVM50? which does one get for best value? also, is this an AVS product line?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sooo true!!!
> 
> 
> Bob and or Levesque........
> 
> 
> I am getting a Tosh XA2 (soon I hope). To date I have been extremely satisfied with the 480i HDMI stream from the Oppo to the D2. Although terrific the Tosh XA1 in my setup is not as 'pristine', for want of a better descriptor, for upconversion as the Oppo.
> 
> 
> My question is will this continue to be true with the XA2? Are the silicon improvements I am hearing about for the XA2 reviews likely a better result for SD DVD's than the oppo? Does the upconversion to 1080P in the Tosh XA2 trump the 480I from the oppo and subsequent conversion to 1080P?
> 
> 
> Does any of this make sense?
> 
> 
> Peter



Peter,

It makes lots of sense. There are a number of ways the Toshiba players can screw up standard DVD playback.


Now with your XA1, I expect you are sending HDMI 480p instead of 480i, right? I didn't think the XA1 knew how to generate HDMI 480i output. If so, then what you are seeing is the Toshiba's idea of how to de-interlace the standard DVD content. The de-interlacing in the D2 is being bypassed! This alone could explain the difference.


Other ways that players can screw up HDMI 480i or 480p (beyond de-interlacing problems in production of the 480p) are:


1) Clipping Blacker than Black or Peak White data, or reducing the number of steps of it that are presented.


2) Crushing near Black or near Reference White data.


3) Y/C delay errors (color timing not quite aligned with gray scale timing).


4) MPEG2 decoder errors including the infamous Color Upsampling Error (CUE).


5) Missing or duplicated steps in the gray scale or color ramps.


6) Temporary improper signal when given a "bad edit" or chapter change on the disc.


7) Incorrect or overly aggressive "filtering" of the signal in a misguided effort to do noise reduction of various sorts, or in the belief that the destination device can't handle the full horizontal or vertical resolution coming off the disc.


There are more, but that should be enough to give you an idea.


The thing is, when folks claim these new players handle standard DVD discs just fine, there are *LOTS* of details they are glossing over without proper testing.


Early reports are that the XA2 is better than the XA1, but I've not yet seen test results (as regards standard DVD playback) from folks I trust to test this properly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darryl b* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ok, first grade question, what are the material differences between D2 and AVM50? which does one get for best value? also, is this an AVS product line?



The Statement D2 has a better power supply and a more "exotic" audio solution than the AVM-50. Their video solution is identical.


The D2 also has spare DSP processing power that is expected to be used soon to implement a Room EQ upgrade.


Check out the AVM section of the Anthem web site and you will find a comparison chart that lists specific feature differences between the D2 and AVM-50 (as well as the lower AVM products). There aren't many.


"Best value" is a difficult thing to assess. There are many happy AVM-50 owners on this thread who are perfectly happy saving the money by having bought it instead of the Statement D2. On the other hand, the average Sony receiver owner would likely look at the AVM-50 and consider it ridiculously over priced.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK this is getting ridiculous. Almost every time I start up the Anthem I have to shut down and recycle to get sound.
> 
> 
> The EXTRA problem is that devices like the XA2 will start at the beginning because it looses it's HDMI connection on the recycle and starts from the beginning of the disc, which is a royal pain to wait, go through the Copyright screen, wait for the HD DVD feature promotional fingers crossed I have sound, Next chapter, then popup menu to get back where I was. This is BS big time.



Have you updated Nick at Anthem on what you are going through? It sounds like it is getting worse.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK this is getting ridiculous. Almost every time I start up the Anthem I have to shut down and recycle to get sound.
> 
> 
> The EXTRA problem is that devices like the XA2 will start at the beginning because it looses it's HDMI connection on the recycle and starts from the beginning of the disc, which is a royal pain to wait, go through the Copyright screen, wait for the HD DVD feature promotional fingers crossed I have sound, Next chapter, then popup menu to get back where I was. This is BS big time.



You don't deserve this and it is not right! Something is terribly wrong and there is a no compromise position that Anthem should take in resolving this once and for all.


I say this as an enthusiastic owner of the D2. The behaviour of the Tosh MAY and I say MAY be in part due to the software implimentation on the disk with respect to the goofy restart procedure. Thats a bridge for the studio's and player hardware to be fixed.


The loss of sound and I suspect the catalyst HDMI handshake failure is too common an error condition to be passed off as just living in a complex world. The Toshiba XA2 and Anthem D2 should be rock solid by now with virtually no margin for error.....especially the one you are describing. The only config test I can suggest would be to either turn on or off the HDMI repeater function in the D2 options and try to see if the behaviour stops.


The behaviour you are describing was happening to me very intermittently with the original version 1.0 of the software. When I finally upgraded to Ver 1.1 virtually all of the HDMI handshake issues disappeared.


I have to admit that it bothers me to hear stuff like this when I know just how phenomenal the experience can be when everything works........Its too bad that Nick has to take the brunt of this as it is clear that the resolution is an engineering challenge and not a support issue.


Anthem I believe you have the best support attitude and response in the industry, you need to accept the need to focus on the engineering sooner rather than later. I can say this because I wouldn't sell my D2 back to you at DOUBLE the price! When it works well you have no peers.....


To ask an end user to recycle the device as normal operating procedure is just wrong. PERIOD!


Peter


ps.....not even triple the price....its mine and you can't have it back.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Peter,
> 
> It makes lots of sense. There are a number of ways the Toshiba players can screw up standard DVD playback.
> 
> 
> Now with your XA1, I expect you are sending HDMI 480p instead of 480i, right? I didn't think the XA1 knew how to generate HDMI 480i output. If so, then what you are seeing is the Toshiba's idea of how to de-interlace the standard DVD content. The de-interlacing in the D2 is being bypassed! This alone could explain the difference.
> 
> 
> Other ways that players can screw up HDMI 480i or 480p (beyond de-interlacing problems in production of the 480p) are:
> 
> 
> 1) Clipping Blacker than Black or Peak White data, or reducing the number of steps of it that are presented.
> 
> 
> 2) Crushing near Black or near Reference White data.
> 
> 
> 3) Y/C delay errors (color timing not quite aligned with gray scale timing).
> 
> 
> 4) MPEG2 decoder errors including the infamous Color Upsampling Error (CUE).
> 
> 
> 5) Missing or duplicated steps in the gray scale or color ramps.
> 
> 
> 6) Temporary improper signal when given a "bad edit" or chapter change on the disc.
> 
> 
> 7) Incorrect or overly aggressive "filtering" of the signal in a misguided effort to do noise reduction of various sorts, or in the belief that the destination device can't handle the full horizontal or vertical resolution coming off the disc.
> 
> 
> There are more, but that should be enough to give you an idea.
> 
> 
> The thing is, when folks claim these new players handle standard DVD discs just fine, there are *LOTS* of details they are glossing over without proper testing.
> 
> 
> Early reports are that the XA2 is better than the XA1, but I've not yet seen test results (as regards standard DVD playback) from folks I trust to test this properly.
> 
> --Bob



Bob you are right (again). The Xa1 does not know 480I over HDMI for output because to Toshiba it wouldn't make any sense.....why would anyone want to take a machine the size, weight and cost of the XA1 and use it to send 480i over HDMI as output??????? unless of course you happen to own an external AV pre/processor!


Although I will obviously a/b the two machines when the XA2 arrives I suspect that it will an interesting test to measure the results. Either way we (the consumer) win. I just can't imagine the SD upconversion getting any better but I certainly won't fight it either way.


Also would the best test be to take the current SD Digital Video Essentials and play it in both machines for the best reference material?


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also would the best test be to take the current SD Digital Video Essentials and play it in both machines for the best reference material?
> 
> 
> Peter



Well it is tough to see the sort of errors I'm talking about unless you already know what you are looking for. But in terms of subjective tests sure, the sample video sequences on the DVE disc are good, as are the de-interlacing and noise tests on the HQV test disc.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well it is tough to see the sort of errors I'm talking about unless you already know what you are looking for. But in terms of subjective tests sure, the sample video sequences on the DVE disc are good, as are the de-interlacing and noise tests on the HQV test disc.
> 
> --Bob



Do NOT, I repeat, do NOT tell me what I should be looking for! I have heard too many stories on this thread how the whole home theater experience has been ruined by a more informed perspective on things like artifacts etc. Ignorance is bliss Bob.......I have a staff member who will watch a video reflected in a toaster!!!!! We just haven't had the heart to explain the physics involved and it sure is an economical morale booster and yes we have him plug it in as it keeps him in the kitchen so we know where he is at all times.


Peter


----------



## runnerlk

OK I must be really dumb, but all of a sudden, all three DVD players(OPPO, A2, and DMP-BD10) play my CDs in surround sound not 2 channel. I am using the 2 channel preset via HDMI. I have checked and double checked my menus in the source and D2. What am I doing wrong?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK I must be really dumb, but all of a sudden, all three DVD players(OPPO, A2, and DMP-BD10) play my CDs in surround sound not 2 channel. I am using the 2 channel preset via HDMI. I have checked and double checked my menus in the source and D2. What am I doing wrong?



Odds are you have selected an audio "Mode" in the Anthem that is generating the surround sound for you from those stereo inputs. It does that by doing math on the incoming stereo audio.


If you have turned on THX post processing (perhaps by accident) then the only Modes you will be offered are the surround sound Modes.


So play a CD. Then press the THX button on the Anthem remote and use the Up or Down arrow keys as necessary to turn off THX post processing.


Then press the Mode button on the Anthem remote and use the Up and Down arrow keys to scroll through the available choices. What you likely want is "Stereo".


Personally, when I'm seated in my primary listening position and not moving around the room a lot, I prefer "Anthem Logic Music" (AL Music) mode over "Stereo". It is a non-aggressive surround sound mode -- i.e., it doesn't create much audio for the surround speakers -- and it turns off the Center speaker to keep from messing up the front sound stage.


Whichever Mode you like you can set as the default mode for 2-channel audio input when you select that device. For the modes that pair up with THX post processing, you can also set the default to have THX either on or off. Do this in the Anthem's Setup / Source Select page.


For example, I have my CD input's default settings for 2-channel to be "AL Music", i.e., non-aggressive "invented" surround sound, and without THX.


The default you specify will be activated each time you switch to that input. You can then change it manually, as you desire, while listening. If you would prefer that the Anthem *NOT* change things on the fly each time you change inputs, just set the default for each type of incoming audio format to be "last used", and the Anthem will just maintain whatever you last set manually.


For example I have my TV settings for 2-channel and 5.1 defaulting to no THX. When the program I'm watching happens to be a movie, I will manually turn on THX. Meanwhile the default settings for my DVD have THX on, and I turn it OFF manually if the DVD I'm watching happens to be of a TV series or other non-movie content.


I will also manually switch to "Academy-MONO" mode when watching old black and white movies.


The combination of defaults and manual adjustments works pretty well. The most common confusion is people forgetting that turning on THX post processing also means switching to the more limited set of available Modes.

--Bob


----------



## Vikingmd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The most common reason for this is that one of your plugs came loose -- possibly under the weight of the cable itself. HDMI plugs are only a friction fit and it takes only a tiny bit of looseness to lose the signal.
> 
> 
> The next most common reason is that you had a power glitch and one or the other of your devices in the video chain didn't ride it out.
> 
> 
> First of all, do you have video again? Do you have audio? If not, power cycle each device, double check which inputs/outputs are selected for each device, and see if it comes back.
> 
> 
> If not, double check your cables at each end. Grasp each video cable in turn near its socket and press it firmly STRAIGHT IN to the socket and see if the picture comes back. If that gets you a signal again then you may need to support the cable in some fashion near that socket.
> 
> 
> Another common problem, since the AVM-50 is new to you, is that you accidentally hit the remote button to change either the selected input on the AVM-50 or the selected input on the TV itself. It happens. If you've got video again, and no other cause suggests itself, this may be all that it was.
> 
> --Bob



Well I tried all of these suggestions: a new cable, reseating the cable, power cycling each device, reconfiguring the video outputs, cycling through the TV inputs. In fact I had already tried them but I gave it another shot. I still have nothing except sound. I don't even get the onscreen setup. I'm super stressed, because I purchased off audiogon.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Have you updated Nick at Anthem on what you are going through? It sounds like it is getting worse.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, unfortunately the current work pre-release has an issue with failure to program OKI external flash so I'm effectively stuck at the moment.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vikingmd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I tried all of these suggestions: a new cable, reseating the cable, power cycling each device, reconfiguring the video outputs, cycling through the TV inputs. In fact I had already tried them but I gave it another shot. I still have nothing except sound. I don't even get the onscreen setup. I'm super stressed, because I purchased off audiogon.



This happened to me and the only solution was to reset to factory defaults (via front panel) and then reload a more recent software load (suggest stopping at 1.06 given my experiences) then reload settings.


The other common one is RGB vs YCrCb color, this got rid of my green screen early on.


Tim


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You don't deserve this and it is not right! Something is terribly wrong and there is a no compromise position that Anthem should take in resolving this once and for all.
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> The behaviour you are describing was happening to me very intermittently with the original version 1.0 of the software. When I finally upgraded to Ver 1.1 virtually all of the HDMI handshake issues disappeared. ...
> 
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> ps.....not even triple the price....its mine and you can't have it back.



Peter,


I was much more stable on all releases through .06.


Nick was VERY fast to respond and very helpful but I'm stuck until a release after 11b.


I'll take stability over feature creep, and I'm hoping software types have the same attitude at Anthem (which didn't happen to be my attitude when I was a programmer in the early years...)


Thanks for the words,

Tim


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vikingmd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I tried all of these suggestions: a new cable, reseating the cable, power cycling each device, reconfiguring the video outputs, cycling through the TV inputs. In fact I had already tried them but I gave it another shot. I still have nothing except sound. I don't even get the onscreen setup. I'm super stressed, because I purchased off audiogon.



Another thing you might try is pulling the plug on all your HDMI equipment. I was having a problem with the Toshiba A1 and it finally crashed my TV







. It was so bad, the other HDMI input failed also (scary moment). Turning the TV off and back on did not help (yet another scary moment). However, removing power for a few minutes to force a reboot of all the processors and chips fixed it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vikingmd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I tried all of these suggestions: a new cable, reseating the cable, power cycling each device, reconfiguring the video outputs, cycling through the TV inputs. In fact I had already tried them but I gave it another shot. I still have nothing except sound. I don't even get the onscreen setup. I'm super stressed, because I purchased off audiogon.



OK, let's try taking this further.


First, if you have any HDMI source devices -- a scaling DVD player perhaps -- then set it to 480p output and connect it via a short HDMI cable (under 6 feet say) directly to your TV and see if you can get a picture. This will tell you whether the HDMI input of the TV is still working. Use 480p (480 "progressive") because that's the easiest HDMI signal for your TV to deal with.


Next, hook up Component video cables from the Main path output of the Anthem to the TV -- or some other TV if you have one handy -- and see if you can get the Anthem Setup stuff to appear on the TV when you select its Component video input. This will tell you that the video output circuit of the Anthem is not fried.


If you don't get Component video on the first try, then reset the Anthem's output to 480p in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu. You can do this with just the front panel display on the Anthem. It will only display one line at a time, but just take your time and scroll through the menu entries using the pictures of the menus in the Anthem owner's manual as your guide.


Presuming you TV's HDMI input as working and you can demonstrate that Component video output is working from the Anthem (at least at 480p) then we've isolated this quite a bit.


Now, tell us what version of the Anthem software is curently loaded on your Anthem. To find this, Back out of the Setup menu and press the Select button on the remote. The software version number will be at the right end of the first line in the Anthem front panel display.


If your software is older than V1.06 you may simply need to upgrade your software. The older software had significant issues with HDMI reliability.


If your software is V1.10 or V1.11, and if the output to your display is 1080i or 1080p, or if *ANY* of your input devices are set to generate 1080i or 1080p output to the Anthem, you may be suffering from the 1080 bug that crept in with those two software versions and affects about 10% of the Anthems out there. The way to test that is to set the output resolution of the Anthem to something other than 1080i or 1080p (using the front panel display), and then to set each and every one of your connected source devices so that they can not send out 1080i or 1080p, and then, finally power cycle the Anthem and see if you can now get video. If that workaround works for you then, be advised that Anthem is working on a fix for this and it should be available shortly.


If you have access to another TV, hooking it up to the Anthem output may also help isolate what's working and what isn't working.


Finally, give us some more info on your source devices, your TV, and the type and lengths of cables between them and the Anthem. This may suggest additional things for you to try.

--Bob


----------



## Vikingmd

Well, the component and HDMI inputs are definitely working on the TV. The component out is not working on the Anthem. I have reset the device to factory default settings. I have unplugged and replugged the AVM-50. HDMI cables are all less than six feet. Component cables are three feet. TV is a Sharp 52d62U. DVD player is a XA1. The software revision is 1.10.


The things about it is that I don't even get the OSD so it is not the sources. Although it also says no video input even with a video source playing.


I think that the video circuitry is fried.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vikingmd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, the component and HDMI inputs are definitely working on the TV. The component out is not working on the Anthem. I have reset the device to factory default settings. I have unplugged and replugged the AVM-50. HDMI cables are all less than six feet. Component cables are three feet. TV is a Sharp 52d62U. DVD player is a XA1. The software revision is 1.10.
> 
> 
> The things about it is that I don't even get the OSD so it is not the sources. Although it also says no video input even with a video source playing.
> 
> 
> I think that the video circuitry is fried.



Yes, I'm afraid that seems the most likely situation at this point. But since you have the V1.10 software, I just want to be sure you don't have the video output set to 1080i or 1080p and you have no connected source device that might have sent a 1080i or 1080p input signal since the last time you power cycled the AVM-50, correct?

--Bob


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

Hey, Bob:


How exactly does SACD via HDMI work? I am assuming that the D2 decodes the data into multichannel signals.


Thank you again for your expert advice.


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

What I mean is DVD-Audio will output a multichannel PCM signal via HDMI in the Oppo but will SACD (via HDMI in the Oppo) be in stereo (albeit high resolution PCM) or will it also be multichannel?


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What I mean is DVD-Audio will output a multichannel PCM signal via HDMI in the Oppo but will SACD (via HDMI in the Oppo) be in stereo (albeit high resolution PCM) or will it also be multichannel?



The 970 and 981 will output SACD as high resolution (88.1/24) 5.1 PCM via HDMI. I am using the 981HD for SACD and DVD-A via HDMI to the D2 just fine.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey, Bob:
> 
> 
> How exactly does SACD via HDMI work? I am assuming that the D2 decodes the data into multichannel signals.
> 
> 
> Thank you again for your expert advice.



As Kris says, the Oppo players do multi-channel just fine for this using an HDMI V1.1 link to the D2.


Not all HDMI V1.1 SACD players will do this!


SACD on the disc is not PCM. It is in a different digital format (the details aren't important). HDMI V1.1 supports players, like the Oppo players, that convert that other format to PCM for output. HDMI V1.2a (which the Anthem does not have) also supports sending the original digital format as found on the SACD disc. Some purists believe that is a better way to listen to SACD but most HDMI V1.2a receivers and pre/pros would just immediately convert that incoming digital stream to PCM *ANYWAY* so it is a moot point.


If you use an SACD player, such as the Oppo players, that will convert the SACD disc format to PCM (which is full quality, high bandwidth, and yes multi-channel) and send that out over HDMI V1.1, then that will work fine with the D2.


Also be aware that to do this you will need to set the output video resolution from the player to 720p or 1080i to get all the channels of full bandwidth audio. This is due to the way HDMI is designed for audio. This is true for DVD-Audio listening as well. Trying to do this at HDMI 480i or 480p will result in only two channels of audio or reduced bandwidth audio depending upon the player.

--Bob


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

thanks again!


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 970 and 981 will output SACD as high resolution (88.1/24) 5.1 PCM via HDMI. I am using the 981HD for SACD and DVD-A via HDMI to the D2 just fine.



The 970 is suppose to have a sonic advantage over the 981 regarding SACD & DVD-A playback, correct?


dc


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 970 is suppose to have a sonic advantage over the 981 regarding SACD & DVD-A playback, correct?
> 
> 
> dc



Pardon me please, and not to change the subject, but I'm tired of scouring the internet to find remote codes for the Oppo 970 and the Directv H20 mfg600 sat reciever that works with the Anthem AVM-50 remote.

If anybody has found them, Please help, or advise for an alternative would be much appreciated.


----------



## DrJRapp

I've been using a Harmony 880 with great sucess with the D2 and Oppo and Dish 622 DVr..


----------



## rlockshin

The 1080i fix is out. If you need it,email Nick at Anthem. I have not intalled t yet. Can we get people who install it to give us feedback on how it works?Thanks


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 1080i fix is out. If you need it,email Nick at Anthem. I have not intalled t yet. Can we get people who install it to give us feedback on how it works?Thanks



I am ordering my D2 today and am wondering first, what version number the new 1080i fix is at and secondly, anything I need to specify when ordering the D2. I am also ordering the A5 amp at the same time and have decided to use balanced connections between the amp and the D2. Is this a good move or not required, ($10 more for the balanced versus SE)?


I will be connecting a Arcam DV 137 and a HD PVR with Rogers feed coming in for now with a PC to be connected at a later date.


I am going with the either the Anthony Gallo Reference speakers, (Mains, C and rears), or the Eyis line from Tannoy. Still need to decide between those two and is dependent on Anthony Gallo meeting the price point.


Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


Cheers


Bob, (Mississauga, Ontario).


----------



## rlockshin

Nick said the version is 1.11b

It is not officially released but can be obtained by sending Nick an email


----------



## agrsiv95

Does anyone have a PS3 running to thier D2 via HDMI? I am tring to figure out the best way to setup the video output to the D2 (1080i or 1080p) and to make sure that linear pcm is the way to go.


Thanks,


Jeremy


----------



## barhoram

I see that Anthem has info on the D1 upgrade to D2 on thier website. I'm about ready to jump on this and upgrade my D1, but wanted to be ceratin that my other HT components will play nice with the D2. Are there any issues with a HD-DVD setup with a Toshiba XA2 and a Sony Pear FP that I should be concerned about? My other soureces are an HD-Tivo, Xbox 360, and a HTPC. I will probably then upgrade my video card in my HTPC to one with HDMI out and the only source using component will be the 360. Any thoughts appreciated.


----------



## jigesh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ..Also be aware that to do this you will need to set the output video resolution from the player to 720p or 1080i to get all the channels of full bandwidth audio. This is due to the way HDMI is designed for audio. This is true for DVD-Audio listening as well. Trying to do this at HDMI 480i or 480p will result in only two channels of audio or reduced bandwidth audio depending upon the player.
> 
> --Bob



Very infromative, Bob; thank you. Normally one would setup HDMI to 480i to take advantage of external video processing in D2 or AVM50. So it appears that while watching DVD-V, one would use Oppo's HDMI to 480i, but while listening to hi-rez audio, one would change Oppo's HDMI setting to 1080i or 720p. Perhaps even HDMI 1.2a would require this change in settings...? Not very convenient but a trade-off between cable clutter and settings-fiddling I guess.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrJRapp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been using a Harmony 880 with great sucess with the D2 and Oppo and Dish 622 DVr..



Jerry,

I'm having trouble getting the D2's various press-and-hold buttons to work with the Harmony 880. I.e., the "7" key, the "mode key", and the "sub/lfe" key to get to Setup.


Logitech tech support is working on a solution for me, but perhaps you've already figured out a way to do this?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am also ordering the A5 amp at the same time and have decided to use balanced connections between the amp and the D2. Is this a good move or not required, ($10 more for the balanced versus SE)?



$10 more is not a lot for the extra peace of mind, but the XLR connections will not add anything in a typical home theater configuration. The XLR connections are better at rejecting interference, so they are very useful for long cable runs (say over 15 feet) or in environments where there is expected to be a lot of electrical interference. That's why they are used in pro setups.


XLR connections also look cool, which is a factor for folks who like to show off the back of their setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick said the version is 1.11b
> 
> It is not officially released but can be obtained by sending Nick an email



Any other info on what ELSE might have been fixed in this version?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I see that Anthem has info on the D1 upgrade to D2 on thier website. I'm about ready to jump on this and upgrade my D1, but wanted to be ceratin that my other HT components will play nice with the D2. Are there any issues with a HD-DVD setup with a Toshiba XA2 and a Sony Pear FP that I should be concerned about? My other soureces are an HD-Tivo, Xbox 360, and a HTPC. I will probably then upgrade my video card in my HTPC to one with HDMI out and the only source using component will be the 360. Any thoughts appreciated.



The V1.10 and V1.11 D2 and AVM-50 software have a bug that hits about 10% of the units and makes it impossible to use 1080i or 1080p input or output. Anthem has test software out now that's supposed to fix this problem.


The V1.10 and V1.11 D2 and AVM-50 software have a bug (or possibly bugs) that causes it to not power on in the correct configuration when it has been powered off for "a while". A momentary power cycle fixes most of this -- although one issue (changing the setting of the Scale Output item for the input selected at power on) requires a manual fix each time you power on. Anthem is aware of several symptoms here. So far, no test software has been proposed as a fix to this.


Folks with the Sony Pearl have reported problems finding the corrrect output timings for the D2 when sending 1080p/24Hz video. Anthem is apparently working on adjustments to its /24Hz timings. 1080p/60Hz timings work fine.


Folks with HTPC setups with DVI output have reported problems getting the Anthem's to play nice with their EDID info (used in the handshake that establishes the connections). Gefen's DVI Detective is helpful here. Anthem has test software out now that handles this better without needing the Detective.


I can't recall any specific issues for the XA2, the various HD-Tivo boxes or the Xbox 360.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jigesh* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Very infromative, Bob; thank you. Normally one would setup HDMI to 480i to take advantage of external video processing in D2 or AVM50. So it appears that while watching DVD-V, one would use Oppo's HDMI to 480i, but while listening to hi-rez audio, one would change Oppo's HDMI setting to 1080i or 720p. Perhaps even HDMI 1.2a would require this change in settings...? Not very convenient but a trade-off between cable clutter and settings-fiddling I guess.



Yes, HDMI 1.2a, and even HDMI 1.3, would require this. Available audio bandwidth in HDMI is a percentage of the currently selected video bandwidth.


It is possible for the source device to do something special at HDMI 480i and 480p (called pixel repetition) to avoid having to do this, but I know of no HDMI source devices -- not one -- that goes this route for DVD-Audio or SACD playback over HDMI. As such, even if some new source device did this, it would probably be discovered that many displays and receivers just get confused by such a signal.


A more probable fix for this would be for players like the Oppo to offer the option of an AUTOMATIC switch to HDMI 1080i output when playing DVD-Audio or SACD discs over HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a PS3 running to thier D2 via HDMI? I am tring to figure out the best way to setup the video output to the D2 (1080i or 1080p) and to make sure that linear pcm is the way to go.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Depends on your monitor/projector.


My PS3 is connected via HDMI. I configured my PS3 to output Linear PCM. I use auto though. I haven't yet played with individual audio output settings (there's about a dozen or so audio output settings if you want to configure things manually, but I wasn't sure what to select and haven't had time to play with the manual settings). But, you definitely want to select Linear PCM.


For video output, depends on your projector/monitor. Since I have a 720p projector, I configured my PS3 to tell it that I support 480p, 720p, and 1080i. This way, the PS3 outputs 720p for 720p games, 480p for standard DVDs (if I recall, it doesn't do 480i for standard DVDs), and 1080i for 1080p Blu-Ray DVDs (since the PS3 does not properly scale 1080p sources to 720p; it's best to have Anthem do the 1080i to 720p conversion).


There's also a video output settting where you can select automatic, RGB, YCbCr, etc. I used to set mine to automatic, but I changed it to RGB (haven't done enough testing yet, but my PS3 was hanging occassionally while playing Blu-Ray. I changed it to RGB, and no hangs so far, but I haven't watched enough Blu-Ray DVDs lately to claim that changing from automatic to RGB fixed the issue).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There's also a video output settting where you can select automatic, RGB, YCbCr, etc. I used to set mine to automatic, but I changed it to RGB (haven't done enough testing yet, but my PS3 was hanging occassionally while playing Blu-Ray. I changed it to RGB, and no hangs so far, but I haven't watched enough Blu-Ray DVDs lately to claim that changing from automatic to RGB fixed the issue).



The typical default for an HDMI connection would be YCbCr 4:4:4. That should give you slightly better imaging than RGB.

--Bob


----------



## SilentSlug




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 1080i fix is out. If you need it,email Nick at Anthem. I have not intalled t yet. Can we get people who install it to give us feedback on how it works?Thanks



I got the Jan 16th update from Nick and tried it last night. I am sorry to say that the fix did not work for me. The firmware installed OK but I still have the 1080i/p problem. I replied to Nick and let him know it didn't fix it for me.


Update


I just got an email from Nick and he suspects something else might be the problem with my particular D2 that we are still trying to track down.


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> $10 more is not a lot for the extra peace of mind, but the XLR connections will not add anything in a typical home theater configuration. The XLR connections are better at rejecting interference, so they are very useful for long cable runs (say over 15 feet) or in environments where there is expected to be a lot of electrical interference. That's why they are used in pro setups.
> 
> 
> XLR connections also look cool, which is a factor for folks who like to show off the back of their setup.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,


Agree with your comment on the XLR issue and have used it extensively back in the days when I had a Discreet Edit system in my studio.


Don't really need but the cool factor is definitely there!


Cheers


Bob A


----------



## rlockshin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SilentSlug* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got the Jan 16th update from Nick and tried it last night. I am sorry to say that the fix did not work for me. The firmware installed OK but I still have the 1080i/p problem. I replied to Nick and let him know it didn't fix it for me.
> 
> 
> Update
> 
> 
> I just got an email from Nick and he suspects something else might be the problem with my particular D2 that we
> 
> are still trying to track down.



Did he think that it was just your D2 or other units too that the fix would not solve the roblem.

My installer is coming on Tuesdayto put in new software


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> $10 more is not a lot for the extra peace of mind, but the XLR connections will not add anything in a typical home theater configuration. The XLR connections are better at rejecting interference, so they are very useful for long cable runs (say over 15 feet) or in environments where there is expected to be a lot of electrical interference. That's why they are used in pro setups.
> 
> 
> XLR connections also look cool, which is a factor for folks who like to show off the back of their setup.
> 
> --Bob



I will have to slightly disagree here







(please note Smilie). While in most cases XLR do not help much in a home invironment, they can in some. I believe the S/N is slightly better in most configurations (though I'm not positive on this), but where it really helps is in rejecting noise from amoung other things, ground loops. With modern systems having many pieces of equipment (not always configured or grounded correctly), when you throw in that DVR and the associated cable connection, bad things can happen. Case in point, I was running the old D1 to some Adcom amps and had horrible hum. Disconnecting the ground helped, but is not a good idea. Adding a Cable isolator (one that isolates both the center and shield) got rid of most of it. Changing over to XLR got rid of it all (same amp). Of course YMMV. I just thought I would throw that in there. In my opinion (and you know the old saying), if you have XLR then use them (there are inexpensive cables out there that are not bad at all). Just my 2 cents


----------



## SilentSlug




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did he think that it was just your D2 or other units too that the fix would not solve the roblem.
> 
> My installer is coming on Tuesdayto put in new software



He thinks that it is just mine with this problem as the firmware has fixed correctly for everyone else that has tried it.


----------



## dmorse4765

I just tried installing 1.11b on my system. When the installation starts it say's searching for D2. Next it say's D2 Found. About 30 seconds later the computer's freeze. I tried it on my Mac with boot camp and XP with a usb serial adapter and with my Windows desktop. Failed total of 4 times. I will notify Nick this evening.


Dick


----------



## bluemark81

I too got the 1.11b upgrade, however, at the end of the download, my pc said "cannot connect to new OKI boot". Another thing I noticed, which maybe is normal, is that part way through the download, the AVM came on and the front display said "Power interrupted, Check correct time", followed by "AM-1, MAIN, 530kHz".


I have played around with it and the 1080i issue seems to be fixed and haven't noticed any problems other than my time was incorrect.


Has anyone else experienced this OKI message?


----------



## Joe C5

I have heard mention of the OKI message. I "think" it means that portion was not upgraded correctly. I would suggest if you can find a PC (not laptop) with a real serial port it might help. Also, through some connections I have, this is supposed to be one of the better serial USB adapters (if you can't get a real serial port). It looks cheap, but works good







(or so I have been told - I really need to order one and try it out).
http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=28030


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have heard mention of the OKI message. I "think" it means that portion was not upgraded correctly. I would suggest if you can find a PC (not laptop) with a real serial port it might help. Also, through some connections I have, this is supposed to be one of the better serial USB adapters (if you can't get a real serial port). It looks cheap, but works good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (or so I have been told - I really need to order one and try it out).
> http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=28030




It's the same laptop I used the last time without incident and it has a real serial port. Older model of IBM, but still works fine, or did for previous downloads anyway.


----------



## ddimberio

Just out of curiousity, what speakers are people using with their AVM-50's or D2's? I was considering changing out.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's the same laptop I used the last time without incident and it has a real serial port. Older model of IBM, but still works fine, or did for previous downloads anyway.



The only reason I mentioned not using a laptop is because "some" laptops do not have "real" RS-232 voltages. Not only are they not +/- 12V, they often are just 0 and 5 Volts. This occasionally causes problems. That being said, I guess it must be something else which causes the programming issue since you were able to program it before. Rats







.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just out of curiousity, what speakers are people using with their AVM-50's or D2's? I was considering changing out.




I am using Paradigm Studio 60,s, CC470 up front with Studio 20's side and rears. All v 3.0. Sub is a Seismic 10. Fantastic sound in both stereo or surround.


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will have to slightly disagree here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (please note Smilie). While in most cases XLR do not help much in a home invironment, they can in some. I believe the S/N is slightly better in most configurations (though I'm not positive on this), but where it really helps is in rejecting noise from amoung other things, ground loops. With modern systems having many pieces of equipment (not always configured or grounded correctly), when you throw in that DVR and the associated cable connection, bad things can happen. Case in point, I was running the old D1 to some Adcom amps and had horrible hum. Disconnecting the ground helped, but is not a good idea. Adding a Cable isolator (one that isolates both the center and shield) got rid of most of it. Changing over to XLR got rid of it all (same amp). Of course YMMV. I just thought I would throw that in there. In my opinion (and you know the old saying), if you have XLR then use them (there are inexpensive cables out there that are not bad at all). Just my 2 cents




I don't mean to jump into the fray, but I had a slight high pitched buzzing through my Paradigms, using 4 Rotel RB-1080 amplifiers with a Yamaha RX-V3000 as a pre-pro, all grounded proper under 120 v house, using top of the line Belkin Pure AV RCA cables.

After upgrading to the AVM-50, I decided to keep the same interface and re-used the same cables. As sure as day turns to night, the noise was still there, mind you, no decrease or increase in noise.

I went to the local Guitar Center and spent a small fortune on 8 Mugami XLR cables and WALLAH, that noise completely disappeared, silent @ -95 db.

In my opinion, I will never buy another receiver, integrated or pre-pro that doesn't incorporate the XLR interface.


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I too got the 1.11b upgrade, however, at the end of the download, my pc said "cannot connect to new OKI boot". Another thing I noticed, which maybe is normal, is that part way through the download, the AVM came on and the front display said "Power interrupted, Check correct time", followed by "AM-1, MAIN, 530kHz".
> 
> 
> I have played around with it and the 1080i issue seems to be fixed and haven't noticed any problems other than my time was incorrect.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this OKI message?




More than likely, if you got the 1.11b software, you were also warned that it is only working for some, as others are still getting this OKI message. I think Nick has been telling everyone this.


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just out of curiousity, what speakers are people using with their AVM-50's or D2's? I was considering changing out.




I have a very strange speaker config. right now, but I plan to do some changes after some sound advice from some of the good knowlegable folks here.

Paradigm Reference 100 v.4's L/R mains

Paradigm Reference CC-690 Center

Paradigm Reference SA-35 v.2's L/R Surround

Paradigm Reference SA-35 v.2's L/R Rear

This is the strange part: For subs I'm using a pair of Paradigm Monitor 90-P's because I just can't seem to find 2 subs that will fit inside my entertainment center alongside the 100's.

I'm not powering any of the high frequency drivers, I'm just using the three 8" subs and the built in power amp in each enclosure.

I know it's probably a waste not to use such a great sounding speaker, but I love the spacious sound I get from the vertical firing drivers on both sides of the room.

Eventually I will let someone talk me into selling them, as they no longer produce the Monitor 90 P's and I'll replace them with a pair of discreet powered subwoofers.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> More than likely, if you got the 1.11b software, you were also warned that it is only working for some, as others are still getting this OKI message. I think Nick has been telling everyone this.




I just read Nick's e-mail again to check your claim, however, I don't see any reference from him regarding OKI.


Another item I've noticed however, is now if I set my video out to component instead of HDMI, I get a black screen. No video at all.


----------



## Milt99

I would strongly advise folks NOT use USB to Serial cables for updating software on the D1\\D2.

Get a straight serial to serial cable from Rat Shack and your updates will work every time. Promise









It's like trying to use a USB to PS\\2. It rarely works.


Some more unasked for advice re: XLR connectors.

VERY easy to DIY with the correct jig. I only screwed up one of the 9 I made. Reversed the polarity on one of the power amp ends.









5 50 foot runs, no hums, solid connection.

If you don't like DIY, try BluesJeans Cables.

Solid quality, custom lengths, no voodoo, great price.


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> More than likely, if you got the 1.11b software, you were also warned that it is only working for some, as others are still getting this OKI message. I think Nick has been telling everyone this.



I don't have a big prob. with 1080i, but I am having trouble with the hand shake from my HTPC via DVI-HDMI.

If you could e-mail me the new v.1.11b update or send me a link I would greatly appreciate it.


----------



## dmorse4765

I amusing a 9 pin cable from my pc to the D2 and I get the OKI bootloader message installing 1.11b


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I amusing a 9 pin cable from my pc to the D2 and I get the OKI bootloader message installing 1.11b



Is it the message that says "cannot connect to new OKI boot loader in external flash"?


----------



## rudolpht

Sound is working much better in latest release, but I'm still experiencing video on non-fixed frame sources glitching to bad video output requiring a power recycle. Bottom line: Progress on the basics.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Make sure you have the 16 Sep 11b. I had a 15 Sep version and got the same problem. The newer rev (by 1 day) loaded fine.



I used the only one Nick sent me.


----------



## dmorse4765

Bluemark


Message say's "cannot connect to OKI bootloader"


Dick


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I used the only one Nick sent me.




The software I have was dated Jan 12th for 1.11b. I got it from him on the 15th. I haven't had a chance to try it yet.


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just read Nick's e-mail again to check your claim, however, I don't see any reference from him regarding OKI.
> 
> 
> Another item I've noticed however, is now if I set my video out to component instead of HDMI, I get a black screen. No video at all.




I appologize. The e-mail he sent us looked like a blanket e-mail with a few disclaimers, he also told me this over the phone. I assumed (yeh, I know) that he was telling everyone this as a precaution.


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Make sure you have the 16 Sep 11b. I had a 15 Sep version and got the same problem. The newer rev (by 1 day) loaded fine.




Do you care to e-mail the version you have out to me?


----------



## rudolpht

If you cannot get it to load tell Nick the issue & ask him if a version that addresses the loading issue is available. Later doesn't necessarily equal better and to keep the baseline tracked you really need to go through appropriate channel. It's important he has the configurations so released versions match up to the full range of configurations.


----------



## Gregg Bone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just out of curiousity, what speakers are people using with their AVM-50's or D2's? I was considering changing out.



I'm using Magnepan MGIIIa (old but I love them) for my fronts, and Sunfire Cinema Ribbons for center and surrounds. The Sunfires have an amazing big box sound for such a small speaker - but one of my main reasons for selecting them was their fast attack - they match well with the Magnepans


I'm very happy with the sound I'm getting.


----------



## vdmai

Anyone know where to get a good deal for AVM50 (in SoCal)? Guy I used to deal with no longer carry Anthem.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just out of curiousity, what speakers are people using with their AVM-50's or D2's? I was considering changing out.




I use Elac FS600 series Xjet speakers. They are not widely available in the USA but are popular in Europe and Asia.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will have to slightly disagree here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (please note Smilie). While in most cases XLR do not help much in a home invironment, they can in some. I believe the S/N is slightly better in most configurations (though I'm not positive on this), but where it really helps is in rejecting noise from amoung other things, ground loops. With modern systems having many pieces of equipment (not always configured or grounded correctly), when you throw in that DVR and the associated cable connection, bad things can happen. Case in point, I was running the old D1 to some Adcom amps and had horrible hum. Disconnecting the ground helped, but is not a good idea. Adding a Cable isolator (one that isolates both the center and shield) got rid of most of it. Changing over to XLR got rid of it all (same amp). Of course YMMV. I just thought I would throw that in there. In my opinion (and you know the old saying), if you have XLR then use them (there are inexpensive cables out there that are not bad at all). Just my 2 cents



My Classe amps are right besides my speakers. I use XLR cabling all out and would not use single ended connection if XLR is available.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just out of curiousity, what speakers are people using with their AVM-50's or D2's? I was considering changing out.



Paradigm Signature S8, C5, 2 pairs of S2, and 2 Signature Servo.










It's the first time I've keep speakers for so long (2 years now). I was changing every 6 months before that. Those speaker were made for and tested with the Statement line (D2,P2,P5) in mind, and there is a nice synergy with those.


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will have to slightly disagree here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (please note Smilie). While in most cases XLR do not help much in a home invironment, they can in some. I believe the S/N is slightly better in most configurations (though I'm not positive on this), but where it really helps is in rejecting noise from amoung other things, ground loops. With modern systems having many pieces of equipment (not always configured or grounded correctly), when you throw in that DVR and the associated cable connection, bad things can happen. Case in point, I was running the old D1 to some Adcom amps and had horrible hum. Disconnecting the ground helped, but is not a good idea. Adding a Cable isolator (one that isolates both the center and shield) got rid of most of it. Changing over to XLR got rid of it all (same amp). Of course YMMV. I just thought I would throw that in there. In my opinion (and you know the old saying), if you have XLR then use them (there are inexpensive cables out there that are not bad at all). Just my 2 cents



FYI, I had rca, switched to xlr and noticed a definite improvement. I was experiencing some hum. I think it is worth the few extra bucks to remove any doubt over marginal improvement in all systems.


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vdmai* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know where to get a good deal for AVM50 (in SoCal)? Guy I used to deal with no longer carry Anthem.



I got mine at Dynamic Sound Systems in Carlsbad. Good guys, good price.


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just out of curiousity, what speakers are people using with their AVM-50's or D2's? I was considering changing out.




My Vienna Acoustics sound terrific. I don't thing you can do any better without spending thousands more.


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would strongly advise folks NOT use USB to Serial cables for updating software on the D1\\D2.
> 
> Get a straight serial to serial cable from Rat Shack and your updates will work every time. Promise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's like trying to use a USB to PS\\2. It rarely works.
> 
> 
> Some more unasked for advice re: XLR connectors.
> 
> VERY easy to DIY with the correct jig. I only screwed up one of the 9 I made. Reversed the polarity on one of the power amp ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5 50 foot runs, no hums, solid connection.
> 
> If you don't like DIY, try BluesJeans Cables.
> 
> Solid quality, custom lengths, no voodoo, great price.



I got mine at Bluejeans, Great price, great cable!


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you cannot get it to load tell Nick the issue & ask him if a version that addresses the loading issue is available. Later doesn't necessarily equal better and to keep the baseline tracked you really need to go through appropriate channel. It's important he has the configurations so released versions match up to the full range of configurations.




After I had left work Tue, I got the 2nd version of 1.11b. I haven't had a chance to try it. Myself and another member with the same problem both tried the 1st 1.11b. It loaded fine with no errors, however the 1080i bug is still there on component. I will try the newer version tonight.


----------



## abc999

AVM50 is the top pre/pro of 2006 by Ultimate AV!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After I had left work Tue, I got the 2nd version of 1.11b. I haven't had a chance to try it. Myself and another member with the same problem both tried the 1st 1.11b. It loaded fine with no errors, however the 1080i bug is still there on component. I will try the newer version tonight.



Any luck?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> AVM50 is the top pre/pro of 2006 by Ultimate AV!



The D2 won BEST Pre-Pro 2006 from the
*Robb Report Home Entertainment* Magazine.


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any luck?



Nope, I work to much, I won't get a chance till about 1 am....I didn't see the new version till today since I was out yesterday.


The other member hasn't tried it yet either, or at least he has e-mail me back yet.

*UPDATE: I tried the latest 1.11b dated on Jan 16th. I still have the 1080i problem on component......







*


----------



## rlockshin

Just spoke with Frank at Anthem. Contrary to posts here,there is only one version of 1.11b and they have had no reports that it failed to correct 1080i problem.

If your problem is not fixed by this, please contact Frank or Nick ASAP


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 won BEST Pre-Pro 2006 from the
> *Robb Report Home Entertainment* Magazine.




Sound and Vision Magazine granted the AVM 50 an award.......*AUDIO PRODUCT of the YEAR.*


Good for Anthem!


Now Anthem, when your done gloating, please hurry with our software issues.


Mark


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I just installed 1.11b and have no issues.....FYI.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I just installed 1.11b and have no issues.....FYI.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



I forget what version you were on before this install. Did it fix anything for you?

--Bob


----------



## rlockshin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I just installed 1.11b and have no issues.....FYI.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Are you using component or HDMI?

Thanks


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Bob, I was previously using 1.07d which was beta release of 1.10. The only "issue" I had was relative to 1080p/24 out to my Sony Pearl.


rolckshin, I am using HDMI...



Regards,


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just spoke with Frank at Anthem. Contrary to posts here,there is only one version of 1.11b and they have had no reports that it failed to correct 1080i problem.
> 
> If your problem is not fixed by this, please contact Frank or Nick ASAP



That's funny since I was sent 2 different versions & one didn't load correctly and one did based on internal hardware differences between units and when manufactured. (1.11b16Jan worked for).


Your bottom line is important. Get the releases from Anthem and report issues through Anthem or there is no baseline control nor proper tracking of issues which helps all of us ultimately.


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's funny since I was sent 2 different versions & one didn't load correctly and one did based on internal hardware differences between units and when manufactured. (1.11b16Jan worked for).
> 
> 
> Your bottom line is important. Get the releases from Anthem and report issues through Anthem or there is no baseline control nor proper tracking of issues which helps all of us ultimately.



FYI, if you look closely they are both the same version, 1 is labeled and coded for the ANTHEM D-2 and the other is labeled and coded for the AVM-50.

I'm assuming this is the same upgrade software from Nick's e-mail response.

I installed the AVM-50 1.11b without a problem, via serial to serial port from my HTPC. I can't say that it has resolved any component issues, because I don't use the interface, but what I can tell you is, this update has not resolved the DVI-HDMI handshake, to which I am having great issues with.

My HTPC 1080i video cards report recognizing my AVM-50 as a D-2 and therefore requires a couple of hard restarts to even boot up through the AVM-50.

I've given up on any quick fix for this particular problem and just re-connected my HTPC via DVI-HDMI direct to my Sony 60 XBR1 and optical to the Anthem for sound only. In this config. it starts up every time w/o a prob.


----------



## m396 #00-011




Roomraider said:


> FYI, if you look closely they are both the same version, 1 is labeled and coded for the ANTHEM D-2 and the other is labeled and coded for the AVM-50.
> 
> I'm assuming this is the same upgrade software from Nick's e-mail response.
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> 
> Wrong, there are 2 different versions of 1.11b floating around for the AVM 50, I have both. Rudolpht got only one to work for him. They both loaded fine for me, however, neither fixed the problem with 1080i on component. Nick is aware of this, I spoke with him this morning.


----------



## Nathan_R

Wasn't there a version of 1.11 on the 12th and another one on the 16th? For what it's worth, I updated from 1.10 on my AVM-50 to 1.11b (01/16) this evening. I didn't have any issues on 1.10 that I was aware of, but I updated all the same.


With that said (and this is completely unrelated to the Anthem's firmware version), I'm still have stuttering issues on 1080p24 and 1080p48 on my Optoma HD70. It's probably my lack of knowledge of both devices (the AVM-50 and HD70), but if anyone has any advice, I'd greatly appreciate it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I previously reported that I was having problems getting my Harmony 880 Remote to work properly with the Anthem Statement D2. The problem was with the various buttons that do different things when pressed-and released vs. being pressed-and-held for a few seconds.


Examples would be:


* The "7" key (to get to the Video Source Adjust menu)

* The "Enter" key near the numbers (to adjust Mode and then to get to various Video Source Adjust shortcuts)

* The "Sub/LFE" key (to get to the Setup menu)


I worked through the issue with Harmony Level II support and they fixed the problem! Their coding experts identified some adjustments that needed to be made in their Anthem D2 template -- affecting both commands already in their database and additional commands I had to have the Harmony "learn" for me.


The result is that the buttons on the Harmony, when directed to send Anthem commands, work identically to the buttons on the Anthem remote.


These adjustments will be merged into the database for the Anthem Statement D2 at the next update -- sometime over the next month or so. After that, people should get them automatically.


Prior to that, if anyone else needs it, your Harmony setup can be individually adjusted via Harmony Level II support.


--------------------------------------------------------


By the way, I'm VERY impressed with Harmony's support setup. Even with the press of calls due to Christmas gifts, wait times were modest to minimal and the extent they went to to see the problem got resolved was as good as I've ever found with any company.


Hats off to them!

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

If I have my satellite receiver set to 1080i out, and my video output on my Anthem also set to 1080i, is the Anthem doing anything at all to the signal or is it simply passing it through, untouched?


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I have my satellite receiver set to 1080i out, and my video output on my Anthem also set to 1080i, is the Anthem doing anything at all to the signal or is it simply passing it through, untouched?



Greetings,


Passing it through..



Regards,


----------



## bluemark81

Since downloading 1.11b, my sub is now playing for CD listening even though I have it turned off in my music speaker configuration. This is how I have my music speaker configuration set:


a = no;

b = Large;

c = None;

d = Small;

e = Small;

f = None - this is the sub setting;

g = 65 Hz - I didn't think this was even selectable if "f" was set to none prior to 1.11b, but I may be wrong;

h = off;

etc


I am experiencing other problems since the new download but these are primarily all video related, that I've noticed, until now.


Has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## rudolpht

I have had one audio glitch. The XA2 PCM output gets scrambled after a chapter skip or fast forward and back, going forward or back seems to correct. There is sound but it is way out of whack.


I still lose video sometimes in switching, it pushes the projector out of range.


HDMI sound after switching or on power up has worked correctly which is a BIG win.


Tim


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since downloading 1.11b, my sub is now playing for CD listening even though I have it turned off in my music speaker configuration. This is how I have my music speaker configuration set:
> 
> 
> a = no;
> 
> b = Large;
> 
> c = None;
> 
> d = Small;
> 
> e = Small;
> 
> f = None - this is the sub setting;
> 
> g = 65 Hz - I didn't think this was even selectable if "f" was set to none prior to 1.11b, but I may be wrong;
> 
> h = off;
> 
> etc
> 
> 
> I am experiencing other problems since the new download but these are primarily all video related, that I've noticed, until now.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this?



Make sure that the sub is not set as a Super Sub.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Make sure that the sub is not set as a Super Sub.




It isn't.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I have my satellite receiver set to 1080i out, and my video output on my Anthem also set to 1080i, is the Anthem doing anything at all to the signal or is it simply passing it through, untouched?



Good question!


It can't simply be passing it through. At the very least it is doing "video overlay" of the Anthem on-screen graphics.


On the Main path, the Anthem takes the HDMI input signal and regenerates it as a shiny new HDMI output signal. Always.


In that process it may do color space and data format conversion on the input, extraction of the input audio signal, video levels adjustment on the input, noise reduction and detail enhancement, cropping and then scaling of the input, video overlay of on-screen graphics, re-introduction of a stereo "mix down" of the Main path's audio output signal, Gamma correction, color space and format conversion of the output, and then the output of the signal itself.


There are lots of places in there for the Anthem to screw up even if both the input and output signal are 1080i.


For example, if the Anthem is mistakenly applying improper Gamma correction, or "Zoom" scaling, then the image could easily be damaged. These would be bugs of course.


As for the resolution itself, I don't believe we know what the video data path actually is in the Anthem. For example, it may scale ALL incoming video to 1080p at the input frame rate as a preliminary step -- reducing it back to 1080i for output. Or it may not. We don't know.


---------------------------------------------------------------


What sort of imaging problems are you seeing?


The first order of business should be to double check the video-related input and output settings both in the Setup menu and in each panel of the Video Source Adjust menu for that input.


Also double check your source device. Comcast cable HDTV boxes, for example, are known to have periodic strokes where they revert to their default output settings (HDMI RGB 480p) and have to be manually reset to the correct output settings.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since downloading 1.11b, my sub is now playing for CD listening even though I have it turned off in my music speaker configuration. This is how I have my music speaker configuration set:
> 
> 
> a = no;
> 
> b = Large;
> 
> c = None;
> 
> d = Small;
> 
> e = Small;
> 
> f = None - this is the sub setting;
> 
> g = 65 Hz - I didn't think this was even selectable if "f" was set to none prior to 1.11b, but I may be wrong;
> 
> h = off;
> 
> etc
> 
> 
> I am experiencing other problems since the new download but these are primarily all video related, that I've noticed, until now.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this?



Double check that your CD input is indeed still set to Music configuration. In previous installs where I saved and restored settings via a PC file I found a handful of cases where some settings mysteriously "restored" to different values.


Failing that, it looks like you've found a new bug. I take it this worked properly for you in your prior software right?

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good question!
> 
> 
> It can't simply be passing it through. At the very least it is doing "video overlay" of the Anthem on-screen graphics.
> 
> 
> On the Main path, the Anthem takes the HDMI input signal and regenerates it as a shiny new HDMI output signal. Always.
> 
> 
> In that process it may do color space and data format conversion on the input, extraction of the input audio signal, video levels adjustment on the input, noise reduction and detail enhancement, cropping and then scaling of the input, video overlay of on-screen graphics, re-introduction of a stereo "mix down" of the Main path's audio output signal, Gamma correction, color space and format conversion of the output, and then the output of the signal itself.
> 
> 
> There are lots of places in there for the Anthem to screw up even if both the input and output signal are 1080i.
> 
> 
> For example, if the Anthem is mistakenly applying improper Gamma correction, or "Zoom" scaling, then the image could easily be damaged. These would be bugs of course.
> 
> 
> As for the resolution itself, I don't believe we know what the video data path actually is in the Anthem. For example, it may scale ALL incoming video to 1080p at the input frame rate as a preliminary step -- reducing it back to 1080i for output. Or it may not. We don't know.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> What sort of imaging problems are you seeing?
> 
> 
> The first order of business should be to double check the video-related input and output settings both in the Setup menu and in each panel of the Video Source Adjust menu for that input.
> 
> 
> Also double check your source device. Comcast cable HDTV boxes, for example, are known to have periodic strokes where they revert to their default output settings (HDMI RGB 480p) and have to be manually reset to the correct output settings.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Sorry if there was a misunderstanding. I was not having video problems, I was just curious what the Anthem did to the signal in that case if anything. You answered my question. Thanks,


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Double check that your CD input is indeed still set to Music configuration. In previous installs where I saved and restored settings via a PC file I found a handful of cases where some settings mysteriously "restored" to different values.
> 
> 
> Failing that, it looks like you've found a new bug. I take it this worked properly for you in your prior software right?
> 
> --Bob




Bob:


I checked as you suggested and CD is still set to music. However, I've turned everything off and back on and now the sub is not playing. Ghosts in the machine?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I checked as you suggested and CD is still set to music. However, I've turned everything off and back on and now the sub is not playing. Ghosts in the machine?



Could be! Or it could be a somewhat more subtle example of the machine not initializing itself properly on power up.


If it's working now, and the problem does not recur, my first thought would be that you accidentally selected an alternate input that's hooked up to that player. For example, DVD1, DVD2, or whatever. You'd still get sound, but if that input was set for your Cinema speaker configuration, then of course the sub would also play.


When I first installed V1.11, not all of those new, overlayed inputs were initialized as "disabled". Some of them were installed with unexpected values. I've set all the ones I'm not using to "disabled" now, of course, but if I had selected one of them accidentally prior to that, I would probably be quite confused, too. Your new software install may have done something of the same sort. Check each of your inputs in the Setup / Source Select menu and make sure the overlayed inputs you don't actually want to use are "disabled".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Sorry if there was a misunderstanding. I was not having video problems, I was just curious what the Anthem did to the signal in that case if anything. You answered my question. Thanks,



Oh, OK. This line from your ghostly subwoofer question:


"I am experiencing other problems since the new download but these are primarily all video related, that I've noticed, until now."


led me to believe you were seeing video problems at 1080i that resulted in your 1080i question.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht

Bob,


Thanks for the heads up on disabling the overlay inputs.


I didn't even think about that in the old releases.



Appears the production s/w is posted. Here it is for the AVM50
http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/....11install.zip 


For the D2
http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P....11install.zip


----------



## bluemark81

Just out of curiousity, have there been many issues with the AVM 30/40 Statement DI and earlier models of Anthems products as we are seeing with the AVM50/Statement D2?


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just out of curiousity, have there been many issues with the AVM 30/40 Statement DI and earlier models of Anthems products as we are seeing with the AVM50/Statement D2?



40 may have 'just' been released (but cannot confirm it).


No problems with the 30's - we've only had 1 SW update which I have not even bothered to do as there are no real issues behind the update.


Have been keeping track of this thread as I will be uprading to a 50 when I can, but all problems seem to be associated with the Scaler part of the 50/D2 (whether it be heat or software tweaking for configuration and connectivity issues).


Since the 30>50 upgrade currently has an unknown timeframe (from what Nick has emailed to me), they should have this pretty much sorted before I dive into the deep end









Based on the complexity of the 50/D2 it seems to me like Anthem has been doing a pretty good job of hunting this stuff down and trying to make it right. Of course that's easier for me to say sitting on the sidelines waiting rather than having a unit in my rack not performing properly.


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 40 may have 'just' been released (but cannot confirm it).
> 
> 
> No problems with the 30's - we've only had 1 SW update which I have not even bothered to do as there are no real issues behind the update.
> 
> 
> Have been keeping track of this thread as I will be uprading to a 50 when I can, but all problems seem to be associated with the Scaler part of the 50/D2 (whether it be heat or software tweaking for configuration and connectivity issues).
> 
> 
> Since the 30>50 upgrade currently has an unknown timeframe (from what Nick has emailed to me), they should have this pretty much sorted before I dive into the deep end
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Based on the complexity of the 50/D2 it seems to me like Anthem has been doing a pretty good job of hunting this stuff down and trying to make it right. Of course that's easier for me to say sitting on the sidelines waiting rather than having a unit in my rack not performing properly.




I've been living with my new avm50 for a couple of weeks now. Had a terrible install, swapping out units, etc., killing one on a software download, which was a real turn off, albeit it turns out a simple setting adjustment to rgb solved 95% of my problems. Now when the device is working properly, I'm in absolute heaven. BUT, it just doesn't work properly all the time. In particular, when switching from 480 to 1080, it just can't get the handshake right all of the time. On, I would say 15% of the channel switches, I get a grey snowy screen. I need to shut the unit off, turn it back on, sometimes a couple of times, and then all is well with the handshake.

This machine is too funky for me. I'm not sure it's ready for the mainstream consumer marketplace. I'm beginning to think it may be more trouble than it is worth and I may return it, wait a few months and repurchase when they work out all of the many issues that prevent it from being an enjoyable consumer experience. There is no excuse for the device to be working ok, until you change the channel from 480 to 1080 or vica versa and then you have disrupt your viewing experience to screw with shutting it on and off until it gets it right.

If someone can state with certainty its' my particular machine or settings, I'm open to suggestions, but from reading the board, this machine just appears to have to much funk in the software at this time.


----------



## FilmMixer

^^I think its your source unit... I have had nothing but problems with my Directv/Hughes boxes with both my D2 and Denon 5805 before it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I would agree. MOST such problems are actually due to strangeness in the source devices. When you put the Anthem between the source and display, the source is required to do more work to set up the connection. Many current source devices do this poorly. The Anthem can cover for some of this (forcing a re-setup) but apparently not all. The newer Anthem software is much better at this, but be clear here that what it is better at is trying to make up for mistakes in the implementation in the source devices.


This is just the way HDMI is designed. The SOURCE sets up the connection. If the source has not been properly engineered and tested to work through a receiver (as is the case with far too many cable and satellite boxes), then you get failures.


The ability of the source devices to do this right is ALSO very dependent on the quality of cables between them and the Anthem. Much more than it should be. Again, the problem here is in the SOURCE devices and the different protocols and timings the source is required to implement when setting up a connection THROUGH a receiver or pre/pro. When connecting through a receiver, far too many sources are WAY too susceptible to what would otherwise be minor, cable-related signal problems.


Now the Anthem has its own problems of course. But if you are seeing re-handshake failures that often when changing resolutions then that is most likely not the Anthem screwing up. It is the source device failing to do what it is supposed to do. And again, upgrading cables between the sources and the Anthem MAY help here.


Source cable replacement has helped far more people than it should. There's no good reason why super quality cables should be needed for this. But again, it is lack of design robustness in the SOURCE devices that is causing the problem.


And this is why the same sort of complaints are showing up in threads for other HDMI receivers and external scalers from folks using the same or similar sources.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse

I would agree as well on Bob's point. I currently have a Toshiba XA-2, Panasonic BluRay, Denon 3910 and a Scientific Atlantis PVR HD box hooked up to the Anthem and the handshake between all is very troublesome. I really seem to have issues when going from the PVR which outputs 1080i to either 1080p HD or BD. I have to do a lot of turning off and turning back on.

The HDMI handshake is a problem with all source devices it seems...

The price we pay to be "cutting edge"!!!

I do hope that the folks at Anthem come up with some kind of a remote driven "flash" to reset as opposed to turning off and back on - I have 2 power amps connected by triggers.

For the record - I am watching everything on the new Panasonic 65" 1080p plasma so it is about as state of the art as it can be...today! LOL

/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would agree as well on Bob's point. I currently have a Toshiba XA-2, Panasonic BluRay, Denon 3910 and a Scientific Atlantis PVR HD box hooked up to the Anthem and the handshake between all is very troublesome. I really seem to have issues when going from the PVR which outputs 1080i to either 1080p HD or BD. I have to do a lot of turning off and turning back on.
> 
> The HDMI handshake is a problem with all source devices it seems...
> 
> The price we pay to be "cutting edge"!!!
> 
> I do hope that the folks at Anthem come up with some kind of a remote driven "flash" to reset as opposed to turning off and back on - I have 2 power amps connected by triggers.
> 
> For the record - I am watching everything on the new Panasonic 65" 1080p plasma so it is about as state of the art as it can be...today! LOL
> 
> /\\/\\



You should also be aware that there are way too many HDMI cables out there right now which are neither designed nor tested to work properly at 1080p.


And even ones that SAY they will work at 1080p may not, since there are currently no standardized design or test requirements to make that claim. This is supposed to change with new (presumably more expensive) cables that are labeled for HDMI V1.3 compliance. Those cables will have to meet one of 2 design/test specs at their manufactured length. The "HDTV" cables are supposed to be reliable up to 1080i. The beyond HDTV cables (not known yet how this will be named) are supposed to be reliable up to 1080p/60Hz with deep color.


But even then, it is my understanding that each manufacturer is expected to police itself on this, so caveat emptor. Also note that if you join two cables together, the extra length means that all bets are off.


The same is true, to some degree, when you add the extra set of electrical connection losses by tacking an HDMI/DVI adapter on either end. But even worse, the chips used in DVI devices are not as robust against signal problems as the chips used in HDMI devices. The testing protocol will apparently only certify HDMI to HDMI reliability.


As for current cables, the folks at Secrets of Home Theater are supposedly beginning to test cables to provide some much needed guidance here. But I don't believe any results have been published yet as to which manufacturers can be relied upon.


My point is, if you are having problems on the re-handshake when going to 1080p, you should seriously consider trying to upgrade and/or shorten your source HDMI cables.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> YMy point is, if you are having problems on the re-handshake when going to 1080p, you should seriously consider trying to upgrade and/or shorten your source HDMI cables.
> 
> --Bob



I am currently using Audioquest HDMI 3 (their top of the line) on both BD and HD. Each are only .5m in length...

Yikes!


----------



## bluemark81

Can someone explain what "handshake" means and why this can be problematic?


----------



## Joe C5

Hi - for those of you having issues with handshake, let me ask a question. Do you notice that the display (TV) cycles between the blue screen (or whatever you set it to be when there is no signal) and something else (say black) at about 2 or 3 second intervals. If so, you might want to try this. Go into the settings editor and save off everything to a file on your PC (assuming you have a handy PC and serial cable). Then reset the D1-HD/D2 to factory defaults (from the front panel). Then finally reload your settings from the PC. This "seems" to have worked for me (though I have only tested it once so far). I was having a lot of issues with one of my inputs. It was cycling even when the source was turned off. So far so good. Possibly there is something stored somewhere we can't get to, but resetting to defaults can. YMMV.


It is my opinion that it may be possible that since the Anthem supports so many formats, it confuses some source devices ( Toshiba ). It would be nice if Anthem had a feature to limit the formats presented to a device. This could be done through a lookup table if their hardware would support it (just set up a list of supported resolutions and then a bit field for each input). Just a thought...


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can someone explain what "handshake" means and why this can be problematic?



Hi...far from an authority here but...

The "handshake" mentioned is when 2 or more HDMI sources open communication and determine what each is capable/trying to deliver/receive.

720p vs 1080p for example...

I know this sounds simplistic but not sure it is more complicated than that.

Maybe one of the real tech guys in here will respond.

Cheers!

/\\/\\


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi - for those of you having issues with handshake, let me ask a question. Do you notice that the display (TV) cycles between the blue screen (or whatever you set it to be when there is no signal) and something else (say black) at about 2 or 3 second intervals.



Howdy!

This is indeed what is happening however I have noticed, especially with the HD-DVD that the D2 cycles through what you describe but ends up delivering a black screen. I end up shutting everything down and starting in sequence and it corrects itself.

/\\/\\


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Howdy!
> 
> This is indeed what is happening however I have noticed, especially with the HD-DVD that the D2 cycles through what you describe but ends up delivering a black screen. I end up shutting everything down and starting in sequence and it corrects itself.
> 
> /\\/\\



I should mention I have 1.11, and have tried a couple of times now and it seems to be working. Updating from 1.10 to 1.11 did not help me, but resetting to factory defaults and reloading did. I still sometimes don't get the HD-DVD logo, but when I press play it immediately works (rather than cycle 5 or 6 times before getting it right). YMMV...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can someone explain what "handshake" means and why this can be problematic?



As mentioned by DRMABUSE, there is a negotiation that goes on when the connection is established. The negotiation attempts to find the "best" point of agreement between the source and destination as to how the connection will be set up. For example, can both of them handle audio? How many channels at what bandwidth? Can both handle YCbCr, and if so what flavor of it? What resolutions are supported in the destination device? Is the source willing to send that resolution? What about frame rate?


HDMI V1.3 adds some additional stuff to that. There's a whole new color space. There's deep color (and how deep). And there's lip synch. In addition HDMI V1.3 adds more potential resolutions.


The source drives this, based on its own needs and what it reads from the EDID memory in the destination. And having decided how to do it, the source then has to communicate the result to the destination, and allow the destination time to get set to do it that way.


Believe it or not, all that is the EASY stuff -- although unusual characteristics (as with HTPC systems) do lead to problems. What's hard is that copy protection is added on top of this. And each time the characteristics of the signal changes the copy protection has to be reestablished, which is why changing between SDTV and HDTV channels is a common point of failure. Not least because cable and satellite TV set top boxes are big offenders in implementing this poorly.


Copy protection is built on top of the real signal. So if the cable is marginal for carrying the real signal, setting up and verifying the copy protection may add enough complexity that things fail -- i.e, the source device doesn't trust the destination device or sends results that confuse the destination. And so you get no connection. Or you get a connection that gets screwed up if the source decides to set the signal in a way the destination can't handle -- despite the information exchange that is supposed to prevent that.


One of the biggest problems is that the SOURCE is responsible for establishing copy protection all the way to the FINAL destination -- through all intervening devices. This is something that poorly engineered source devices often do incorrectly, or don't even try to do right. The HDMI Repeater setting in the Anthems is in there specifically to try to work around such faulty source devices.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

Hi,

sorry if this has been posted somewhere in the 123 pages!!! but if I send a 480i over

hdmi to the D2 and upconvert in the D2 to 1080i will it output the 1080i on component? I'm wondering if it will only do this for unprotected dvds. My rptv only has component inputs and I don't have any immediate plans for upgrading it.


I see that Anthem is now offering upgrades to us D1 owners. I'm probably going to do it but am a bit nervous after reading this forum although I recognize that there are probably tons of users out there with no issues.


thanks,

The Bogg


----------



## Bob Anderson

Hope someone can help.


I have tried on 2 different computers in the house to download the D2 manual and it keeps getting stuck on either page 5 or 7 or 9.


If anyone could email it to [email protected] , it would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks in advance, (don't worry if you get a bounce back that I did not receive, my Blackberry does that unfortunately but my main email can handle the file size).


Cheers


Bob A


----------



## mr_fitz

I have been reading this thread for the past little while and appreciate all the insight you guys have given to me into my purchase of either the AVM50 or D2 (haven't made up my mind as to whether for me it's worth the extra money).


My system is not quite as extensive as most here but do not what to purchase the AVM50 and regret not getting the D2 down the road if I will miss out some features that will only be available for the D2.


Does anyone have confirmation that the room eq will be a feature for the D2 only or if it will be available on the AVM50?


Is anyone out-there bi-amping with this processor and if so, how are they doing it and does it work well. I could not find anywhere that you could assign zone 2 for bi-amping.


Thanks for the help.


Fitzy


----------



## mjavman

Only because far too often we read posts about how some little setting can't be tweaked or some minor (or major) problem is occurring with the D2, I would like to report that I am completely happy with my D2. For those having trouble, stick with it because it is worth it.


I have had some minor issues, but all were resolvable (HTPC issue solve by Geffen DVI detective) or frankly not important. The D2 sits on the cutting edge, but we get cutting edge performance out of it. For all the "gut wrenching" over the decision to go with the D2 vs. a separate video processor and a standard pre-amp, I realized it was all for naught. The D2 is fantastic, was the right decision, and would recommend it to anyone who is evenly slightly technologically inclined. If you are the kind of person that will fiddle with settings and even enjoys doing your own setup work this is the box for you (and if you are reading posts here, then it probably is you)


If all you want a press the on button on a TV and press the channel up/down and simply watch tv, then I'd tell you to a pass. But then again, if that is all you want, then you probably aren't reading posts to this forum.


At this point, my only concern is that I'm NOT knowledgable enough to be getting the most out of the unit. I have not tweaked the sound beyond measuring distances to my seating location. I don't know if I have speaker sizes set right (I'm sure I don't), have subwoofer settings right, etc... Then there is the video. There are so many ways to tweak the picture I'm just learning what I like to see. I haven't optimized my color settings, and the noise and motion processing make me feel like a novice (which I am).


However, this means that I have many more months of enjoying the hobby of playing with the D2 before I get it all "perfect", when of course all I will have left is watching TV and movies on an awesome screen with a fantastic picture and realistic sound.


Now if I had just waited and not gotten the Panny 65" since it can't do 24fps life would be perfect.....


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hope someone can help.
> 
> 
> I have tried on 2 different computers in the house to download the D2 manual and it keeps getting stuck on either page 5 or 7 or 9.
> 
> 
> If anyone could email it to [email protected] , it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance, (don't worry if you get a bounce back that I did not receive, my Blackberry does that unfortunately but my main email can handle the file size).
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob A



Bob, right click on the pdf link and select "save target as" in my documents, then open the pdf file.


----------



## richcolorado

Hello, I am building a home theater and am about to purchase my processor. I was planning on getting the AVM 50 but after reading this thread, am not sure that would be a good decision. I have set up an older AVM 20 and found it to be a very nice product. While I have extensive experience in setting up very complex audio systems (I am an audio consultant), when I am at home, I would just as soon have my home theater work without much effort. But I do want a lot of flexibility and quality, both of which the Anthem product line offers. To me, it seems OK to let the projector do the processing at this time. So, does it make sense to get the AVM 40 and keep things simpler? Or should I just let the projector do the source selection as well? I will initially only have 2 HDMI sources, and could add an external switcher when the need arises. One other option is to get the AVM 40 or AVM 50 and not use the HDMI section unitl they work the bugs out, connecting the two HDMI sources directly to the projector. Any thoughts from you folks who have been living with the Anthem processors? Thanks ,Rich


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Go into the settings editor and save off everything to a file on your PC (assuming you have a handy PC and serial cable). Then reset the D1-HD/D2 to factory defaults (from the front panel). Then finally reload your settings from the PC.



Good advice! But let me put alot of emphasis on that. *People should do this EVERY time they perform a firmware upgrade.* Every time!


0) Write down any settings you can't simply remember in your head.

1) Save settings to PC

2) Load factory defaults

3) Firmware upgrade

4) Load factory defaults

5) Reload settings

6) Go into each and every Setup and Video Adjust menu and verify that all of your settings were properly restored. Correct any that have unexpected values


**Edit** (good advice form Bob)

*Also remember to use *ONLY* the Setup Editor that came with the new version of the software you are now installing -- both to save your current settings prior to the upgrade and to restore them after the upgrade.*


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good advice! But let me put alot of emphasis on that. *People should do this EVERY time they perform a firmware upgrade.* Every time!
> 
> 
> 1) Save settings to PC
> 
> 2) Load factory defaults
> 
> 3) Firmware upgrade
> 
> 4) Load factory defaults
> 
> 5) Reload settings



I agree with LEVESQUE here, but would add a step at either end:


0) Write down any settings you can't simply remember in your head.

. . .

6) Go into each and every Setup and Video Adjust menu and verify that all of your settings were properly restored. Correct any that have unexpected values.


Although the process of saving and restoring settings via a PC file is pretty painless, I have personally experienced cases where not all settings were properly restored. In addition, the new, overlayed inputs introduced with V1.10 (DVD2 and such) may initially show up with some unexpected initial values -- and in particular not all of them will be "disabled" by default.


It is also wise, after each upgrade, to re-check your audio and video calibration settings (after you know all your setup and adjust menu entries are now properly restored) to see if any of the improvements in the new software mean you should make corresponding adjustments to your calibration settings as well.


-------------------------------------------------------------------


Also remember to use *ONLY* the Setup Editor that came with the new version of the software you are now installing -- both to save your current settings prior to the upgrade and to restore them after the upgrade. Do *NOT* rely on any previous settings file you have saved to your PC using some prior version of Setup Editor, and do *NOT* use an older Setup Editor to save or restore settings for a new upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 0) Write down any settings you can't simply remember in your head.
> 
> . . .
> 
> 6) Go into each and every Setup and Video Adjust menu and verify that all of your settings were properly restored. Correct any that have unexpected values.



Done.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> sorry if this has been posted somewhere in the 123 pages!!! but if I send a 480i over
> 
> hdmi to the D2 and upconvert in the D2 to 1080i will it output the 1080i on component? I'm wondering if it will only do this for unprotected dvds. My rptv only has component inputs and I don't have any immediate plans for upgrading it.
> 
> 
> I see that Anthem is now offering upgrades to us D1 owners. I'm probably going to do it but am a bit nervous after reading this forum although I recognize that there are probably tons of users out there with no issues.
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> The Bogg



If your HDMI source device insists on HDCP copy protection, then you will get no Component output from the Anthems.


Typically DVDs will be copy protected in this way. Cable and satellite channels may or may not be copy protected, and that can change for individual channels from time to time.


The bottom line is that it is usually best to NOT assume you can rely on Component output from the Anthem when fed an HDMI source.


With your current TV, your best bet is probably to use Component source devices.


---------------------------------------------------------------


Note that currently HD-DVD and Blue Ray players will output high def video over Component because the manufacturers have not yet started shipping discs that prohibit that. You can also get high def Component from cable and satellite boxes. 480i and 480p Component will come from any Component source.


The Anthem can scale up 480i or 480p Component to any output resolution so long as the Component source is not "Macrovision" copy protected. Processed Component input/output from the Anthem is limited to 1080i. You can "pass through" unprocessed Component 1080p as well.


When you eventually switch to an HDMI TV, the Anthem will convert your Component sources to HDMI output. For that, you will still be limited to Component 1080i input, but the Anthem will de-interlace that to HDMI 1080p output if you wish.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been reading this thread for the past little while and appreciate all the insight you guys have given to me into my purchase of either the AVM50 or D2 (haven't made up my mind as to whether for me it's worth the extra money).
> 
> 
> My system is not quite as extensive as most here but do not what to purchase the AVM50 and regret not getting the D2 down the road if I will miss out some features that will only be available for the D2.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have confirmation that the room eq will be a feature for the D2 only or if it will be available on the AVM50?
> 
> 
> Is anyone out-there bi-amping with this processor and if so, how are they doing it and does it work well. I could not find anywhere that you could assign zone 2 for bi-amping.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> 
> Fitzy



There's a pretty strong rumor that the Room EQ will be offered only for the D1 and D2, since the AVM line doesn't have the necessary, spare DSP processing power. But at this point that is still just a rumor.


The Zone 2 outputs could only realistically be used for bi-amping with stereo sources, or un-processed multi-channel analog inputs, since otherwise the D2 will down-mix the multi-channel sound to stereo for that output.


The Sub2 and Center2 outputs are already parallel to the Sub1 and Center1 outputs. I suppose you could use this to bi-amp the Center channel.

--Bob


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree with LEVESQUE here, but would add a step at either end:
> 
> 
> 0) Write down any settings you can't simply remember in your head.
> 
> . . .
> 
> 6) Go into each and every Setup and Video Adjust menu and verify that all of your settings were properly restored. Correct any that have unexpected values.
> 
> 
> Although the process of saving and restoring settings via a PC file is pretty painless, I have personally experienced cases where not all settings were properly restored. In addition, the new, overlayed inputs introduced with V1.10 (DVD2 and such) may initially show up with some unexpected initial values -- and in particular not all of them will be "disabled" by default.
> 
> 
> It is also wise, after each upgrade, to re-check your audio and video calibration settings (after you know all your setup and adjust menu entries are now properly restored) to see if any of the improvements in the new software mean you should make corresponding adjustments to your calibration settings as well.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Also remember to use *ONLY* the Setup Editor that came with the new version of the software you are now installing -- both to save your current settings prior to the upgrade and to restore them after the upgrade. Do *NOT* rely on any previous settings file you have saved to your PC using some prior version of Setup Editor, and do *NOT* use an older Setup Editor to save or restore settings for a new upgrade.
> 
> --Bob




After once having downloaded software into the avm50, making it inoperative, I will never attempt it again, and no, I didn't use a usb to serial adapter. As to the Directv unit being responsible for the handshake issues, or cables, all I can say is I bought the best cables made, have no adapter anywhere in the lines and my longest run is jsut short of 15' to the projector, all well within operational guidelines. If the AVM50 can't recognize a handshake from a hd directv box, which is the main reason to buy the unit in the first place, Anthem has a very serious problem and should either fix it, pull the unit from the market until they have working software, and I mean working 100% of the time, which is why you're paying thousands for a quality product, or warn people that the risk of the unit working with very common components is at the risk of the consumer, with the result that it should properly scare most buyers away. No vendor, regardless of how good their product works when it works, should be selling a product that doesn't work properly all of the time because it can't be used effectively with the nmost common components it has been designed to operate seamlessly with.

Sorry to be so harsh, especially to those that strongly support Anthem's valiant efforts, but no one should accept this kind of performance.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If the AVM50 can't recognize a handshake from a hd directv box, which is the main reason to buy the unit in the first place, Anthem has a very serious problem and should either fix it, pull the unit from the market until they have working software, and I mean working 100% of the time, which is why you're paying thousands for a quality product, or warn people that the risk of the unit working with very common components is at the risk of the consumer, with the result that it should properly scare most buyers away.



You have it (again) backward. It's your HD DirtectTV provider the problem. Not Anthem.


You should rewrite that quote and put "my directTV provider" instead of the word "Anthem", and then your quote would be good.


Bob, me and alot of others already explain the reasons at lenght to you in this thread. The culprit is your DirectTV STB.


I really think you should read a little bit more on the subject before attacking Anthem like that. You definitely don't understand how those handshakes problems are happening, so you are shooting in the wrong direction completely.


Here's a really good link for you, and another good exemple:









http://forums.audioholics.com/forums...ad.php?t=21194 


You should call your DirectTV provider directly and tell us what they will tell you to solve their problem. They won't even move a finger to help you, because they don't care.


----------



## Kirkland

Hello all,


1- is there a difference sonically between the D1 and the D2?

2- What are the differences between the D1 and the D2, beside video upconverting?


Thx.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kirkland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> 
> 1- is there a difference sonically between the D1 and the D2?
> 
> 2- What are the differences between the D1 and the D2, beside video upconverting?
> 
> 
> Thx.



The D1 and the D2 have the same audio solution. There may have been some running changes in manufacturing, but it shouldn't be anything the customer would see.


Thus the upgrade of a D1 to a D1-HD by adding the video board and related firmware effectively turns it into a D2. Please note that adding HDMI this way also means the audio side of the product can use HDMI for digital audio input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If the AVM50 can't recognize a handshake from a hd directv box, which is the main reason to buy the unit in the first place, Anthem has a very serious problem and should either fix it, pull the unit from the market until they have working software, and I mean working 100% of the time, which is why you're paying thousands for a quality product, or warn people that the risk of the unit working with very common components is at the risk of the consumer, with the result that it should properly scare most buyers away. No vendor, regardless of how good their product works when it works, should be selling a product that doesn't work properly all of the time because it can't be used effectively with the nmost common components it has been designed to operate seamlessly with.
> 
> Sorry to be so harsh, especially to those that strongly support Anthem's valiant efforts, but no one should accept this kind of performance.



Unfortunately that means that every HDMI receiver and pre/pro on the planet would have to be pulled from the market until all of the faulty, legacy, HDMI source devices are recalled and repaired. This includes most cable HDTV boxes and quite a few satellite HDTV boxes.


That said, the Anthem actually does way better than most receivers and pre/pros out there in compensating for the bugs in various source devices. The HDMI Repeater setting in the Anthem, for example, is not found in any HDMI receiver I know of.


As for your specific problem, I just want to double check that you have HDMI Repeater=NO set for that AVM50 HDMI input, correct? This dramatically simplifies what the source device has to do, and improves the chances it will do it without a hiccup. If you are using that HDMI source via several different source signal paths (the buttons along the bottom of the Anthem remote), then you need to set HDMI Repeater=NO for each of those inputs.


Again, it is each source device that manages the setup and verification of the HDCP (copy protection) portion of HDMI. When the Anthem, or any other device, is placed between the source and the display the SOURCE has to do more complicated stuff. This is just the way HDMI is designed. Unfortunately there are way too many HDMI source devices out there which don't do this correctly -- largely because HDMI receivers and pre/pros are just now becoming common.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After once having downloaded software into the avm50, making it inoperative, I will never attempt it again, and no, I didn't use a usb to serial adapter. As to the Directv unit being responsible for the handshake issues, or cables, all I can say is I bought the best cables made, have no adapter anywhere in the lines and my longest run is jsut short of 15' to the projector, all well within operational guidelines. If the AVM50 can't recognize a handshake from a hd directv box, which is the main reason to buy the unit in the first place, Anthem has a very serious problem and should either fix it, pull the unit from the market until they have working software, and I mean working 100% of the time,




buy.. did you bother to read my repsonse to you earlier... my directv boxes have never worked properly with my D2 or my older Denon 5805 over hdmi.. it is the only piece of gear I have consistetly had problems with...


When the new HR20 HD recorders came out, there were tons of peoples on those forums complainiing about how those boxes don't play well with some tv's... when I first got mine, it would require me to switch resolutions on power up every time before it would handshake with my JVC Pro 1080p set when directly connected (this is my living room set).... they are now on their 10th or so software download, and everytime I see the release notes, it stated "HDMI compatibility issues" have been improved.


As far as your issues with upgrading the software, I agree that it isn't the most stable funciton of this unit.. I have had my D2 lose it's scaler funcitonalitiy and have had to reinstall software multiple times.. it wasn't until I got a PCI serial card and used a PC, restored factory defaults and then upgraded until I stopped having problems.


HDMI is a tricky standard, and even Denon just announced that they are coming out with products that bear the Simply HD ceritifcation which basically means a manufacturer need to get their gear certified to meet HDMI specs to have its logo and they guarantee it will work with other certified devices...


And even knowing that it was my box that was responsible, after getting my D2, I explaned the problem to Nick, and I had software that made the problem a lot less frequent the next day... when I called Denon about it, the told me to call Directv...


And you know what my solution was? To use component and optical until D* gets their act together... In my A/B's, there was no differnce in quality.


Sorry to be so harsh, but blame Directv/Hughes and all the other manufacturers that don't manufacture to spec....or return the AVM 50 and give Anthem, and the rest of us, a break


----------



## Kirkland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thus the upgrade of a D1 to a D1-HD by adding the video board and related firmware effectively turns it into a D2. Please note that adding HDMI this way also means the audio side of the product can use HDMI for digital audio input.
> 
> --Bob



1-Do you mean that there's no HDMI input in the D1?


2-is it possible rigth now to upgrade from a D1 to a D2 by sending the unit to anthem ? how much for the HDMI board and video upscaling ?


----------



## bluemark81

If I am watching a satellite broadcast (Let's say, for example, an old episold of Seinfeld) with the sat receiver set to 480i and the Anthem upconverting it to 1080i, should it be considerably better than if I were to leave the sat receiver set to 1080i?


I realize, if I leave the Sat set at 1080i, it means the satellite receiver is upconverting the signal rather than the Anthem which should be crappy compared to the Anthem doing the upconverting, right?


The reason I am asking is because I see no difference. Seinfeld looks crappy regardless how I have things set and I don't see any noticeable difference, if any at all.


I have been very patient with all the software glitches we have had so far and also very impressed with Anthems customer service in trying to resolve such issues, however, my question above makes me wonder what all the hype is about with regards to the Gennum scaler and why I spent all this $$ on this particular Anthem piece? Am I totally missing something here?


Bob....can you help?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kirkland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1-Do you mean that there's no HDMI input in the D1?
> 
> 
> 2-is it possible rigth now to upgrade from a D1 to a D2 by sending the unit to anthem ? how much for the HDMI board and video upscaling ?



Correct, there is no HDMI input or output -- either video or audio -- in the D1.


Anthem will upgrade a D1 to a D1-HD (i.e., a D2 with different labeling) for US $2000, or CA $2300. The procedure can be found in the D1 section of the Anthem Statement web site.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I am watching a satellite broadcast (Let's say, for example, an old episold of Seinfeld) with the sat receiver set to 480i and the Anthem upconverting it to 1080i, should it be considerably better than if I were to leave the sat receiver set to 1080i?
> 
> 
> I realize, if I leave the Sat set at 1080i, it means the satellite receiver is upconverting the signal rather than the Anthem which should be crappy compared to the Anthem doing the upconverting, right?
> 
> 
> The reason I am asking is because I see no difference. Seinfeld looks crappy regardless how I have things set and I don't see any noticeable difference, if any at all.
> 
> 
> I have been very patient with all the software glitches we have had so far and also very impressed with Anthems customer service in trying to resolve such issues, however, my question above makes me wonder what all the hype is about with regards to the Gennum scaler and why I spent all this $$ on this particular Anthem piece? Am I totally missing something here?
> 
> 
> Bob....can you help?



Which satellite service are you using? DirecTV, for example, "over compresses" many SDTV channels. It is particularly bad for their retransmission of local SDTV channels back into that local market. The compression artifacts damage the image, and the information lost can not be restored by the Anthem.


When it is really bad, those artifacts will dominate what you see and so the improved de-interlacing and scaling in the Anthem won't be noticeable in comparison.


A quality SDTV feed, processed by the Anthem, can look very good indeed. The trick with the satellite providers right now is getting a quality SDTV feed. In many markets, the SDTV offered by digital cable is significantly better than what you can get from the satellite.


This has nothing to do with the satellite technology. It's just that the satellite guys are in a channel capacity crunch right now and they are compressing many of their channels to cram more in.


---------------------------------------------------------------


On top of that, old re-run programs may not be replays of the original masters but may very well be the result of several generations of copying. If the copying was done in analog, even using pro equipment, there will be generation loss. Again, crappy source content is still going to look crappy no matter how well processed it is by the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Which satellite service are you using? DirecTV, for example, "over compresses" many SDTV channels. It is particularly bad for their retransmission of local SDTV channels back into that local market. The compression artifacts damage the image, and the information lost can not be restored by the Anthem.
> 
> 
> When it is really bad, those artifacts will dominate what you see and so the improved de-interlacing and scaling in the Anthem won't be noticeable in comparison.
> 
> 
> A quality SDTV feed, processed by the Anthem, can look very good indeed. The trick with the satellite providers right now is getting a quality SDTV feed. In many markets, the SDTV offered by digital cable is significantly better than what you can get from the satellite.
> 
> 
> This has nothing to do with the satellite technology. It's just that the satellite guys are in a channel capacity crunch right now and they are compressing many of their channels to cram more in.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> On top of that, old re-run programs may not be replays of the original masters but may very well be the result of several generations of copying. If the copying was done in analog, even using pro equipment, there will be generation loss. Again, crappy source content is still going to look crappy no matter how well processed it is by the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Thanks....very good explanation. I am in Canada using Bell Expressvu. There are two satellite providers and one digital cable provider to select from in our area. If I understand you correctly, the digital cable may be the better option?


I have been a Bell customer for quite a few years now and would hate to change before knowing if a change is going to provide me with noticeable improvements. Is there a way you know of to determine this without actually changing providers?


Right now, if your explanation is correct, which I suspect is, I am certainly not getting the benefit of the high tech features of the Anthem.


----------



## The Bogg

Bob,

thanks for the answer. You are indeed an excellent asset to this site!


Do most dvds have macrovision protection? I have done a "google" search and am still not clear about that. I mean if most of them did then there really is no point in getting the upscaler for me at this time. In fact, I'm probably just going to wait on the whole video upgrade because the Toshiba HD-XA2 I'm considering supposedly does a good job with sddvd upconversion etc... I'll wait till hdmi 1.3 is the standard and all components are stable with it (ha, more likely to see hell freeze over!)


thanks,

The Bogg



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If your HDMI source device insists on HDCP copy protection, then you will get no Component output from the Anthems.
> 
> 
> Typically DVDs will be copy protected in this way. Cable and satellite channels may or may not be copy protected, and that can change for individual channels from time to time.
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that it is usually best to NOT assume you can rely on Component output from the Anthem when fed an HDMI source.
> 
> 
> With your current TV, your best bet is probably to use Component source devices.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Note that currently HD-DVD and Blue Ray players will output high def video over Component because the manufacturers have not yet started shipping discs that prohibit that. You can also get high def Component from cable and satellite boxes. 480i and 480p Component will come from any Component source.
> 
> 
> The Anthem can scale up 480i or 480p Component to any output resolution so long as the Component source is not "Macrovision" copy protected. Processed Component input/output from the Anthem is limited to 1080i. You can "pass through" unprocessed Component 1080p as well.
> 
> 
> When you eventually switch to an HDMI TV, the Anthem will convert your Component sources to HDMI output. For that, you will still be limited to Component 1080i input, but the Anthem will de-interlace that to HDMI 1080p output if you wish.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There's a pretty strong rumor that the Room EQ will be offered only for the D1 and D2, since the AVM line doesn't have the necessary, spare DSP processing power. But at this point that is still just a rumor.
> 
> 
> The Zone 2 outputs could only realistically be used for bi-amping with stereo sources, or un-processed multi-channel analog inputs, since otherwise the D2 will down-mix the multi-channel sound to stereo for that output.
> 
> 
> The Sub2 and Center2 outputs are already parallel to the Sub1 and Center1 outputs. I suppose you could use this to bi-amp the Center channel.
> 
> --Bob




What about using an xlr splitter that would plug one end into FL output of the processor and then have two lines out to two channels on my MCA50 and then the same for the FR?


Would this splitter affect quality if indeed it does degrade the signal?


What about hooking up the FL/FR outputs with RCA and XLR at the same time? how would the increased voltage output of the xlr affect this hookup?


Thanks


Fitzy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks....very good explanation. I am in Canada using Bell Expressvu. There are two satellite providers and one digital cable provider to select from in our area. If I understand you correctly, the digital cable may be the better option?
> 
> 
> I have been a Bell customer for quite a few years now and would hate to change before knowing if a change is going to provide me with noticeable improvements. Is there a way you know of to determine this without actually changing providers?
> 
> 
> Right now, if your explanation is correct, which I suspect is, I am certainly not getting the benefit of the high tech features of the Anthem.



Well even if I am correct, all you are losing is some SDTV quality, so you may not want to get too worked up over it.


SDTV is all about not doing any MORE damage. If you set things up right so that you don't do any more damage, and if you happen to get a good undamaged program to watch, then cool! But you really can't undo damage that's already been done. Unfortunately, many broadcasters cheerfully cut corners on SD quality because most people have no idea how good it COULD look.


This is why people like good DVDs over most SDTV. There's no technical reason that a digital SDTV feed (satellite or digital cable) shouldn't look as good as a good DVD.


And the reverse is also interesting. If you happen to latch on to a crappy DVD -- a bad transfer with poorly set levels, too much compression, and other production faults -- good video hardware will likely make the faults even more noticeable and annoying! In fact a bad DVD might even look worse than your best SDTV.


----------------------------------------


I don't know how they do things in Canada, but many US cable providers will let you get set up without having to buy any hardware and with no minimum time commitment. That is, you can KEEP your satellite service, turn on cable, see if it helps, and if not, just cancel the cable paying only for the time you had the service active. Now not all cable services offer good signals either, even on their digital signals, so the only way to know for sure is to try it and see.


I can't recall reading anything about the quality of the Bell satellite service. However there's a forum here for just about anything so a search might get you some info. Even if you just find people talking about Bell's HDTV service, odds are anyone who's looked into it that much will ALSO know whether Bell is over-compressing their SDTV channels. But with the pressure to free up capacity for more HDTV -- particular for live programming (sports) -- I think all the satellite services are cutting corners as much as they think they can get away with on SDTV. Heck, DirecTV even screws up its HDTV. A lot.


Here's a test: Find an SD channel showing recently created cartoons. Cartoon Channel is a good one if you get it. Look in such modern cartoons for background areas that should be pretty much one solid color -- reds in particular. If you see that area breaking up into rectangular patches then you are seeing over-compression artifacts. And those are most likely the fault of the satellite service.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What about using an xlr splitter that would plug one end into FL output of the processor and then have two lines out to two channels on my MCA50 and then the same for the FR?
> 
> 
> Would this splitter affect quality if indeed it does degrade the signal?
> 
> 
> What about hooking up the FL/FR outputs with RCA and XLR at the same time? how would the increased voltage output of the xlr affect this hookup?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Fitzy



Sure, external splitting solutions could work -- you just can't make the Anthem do it for you.


I haven't actually tried this myself, but the input impedance in each amp should be high enough that splitting an Anthem output to two amps, I think, will cause no issues.


The Anthem's XLR outputs run 6dB hot compared to the RCA outputs. If your amps can accept both, they may very well already have an attenuator switch built-in that will knock that back down for you.


Anthem makes amps as well of course, so you may just want to approach them directly on this.


You should also think carefully about what you are trying to achieve with bi-amping. Many people seem to have some pretty serious misconceptions about what it will do for you.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And you know what my solution was? To use component and optical until D* gets their act together... In my A/B's, there was no differnce in quality.



This is my solution on troublesome boxes, like the Moto 6412 DVR. I just don't have time or the patience of Job (or Bob for that matter) to waste on finicky sources for marginal incremental improvement. As far as SD "garbage in" can be better scaled and deinterlaced "garbage out," but again the improvement is marginal, better when blown up to 112", but not much better. For example I catch SciFi Battlestar in SD, then I really WATCH it when it comes out on UniversalHD channel. What a difference. That's about the only channel I watch in SD and sparingly.


----------



## mr_fitz

I was planning on running four of my five channels of my Anthem MCA50 for bi-amping my front L/R. I am not aware of any attenuator swith built inside the MCA50 but I will call anthem and ask them.


I have already tried bi-amping the MCA50 with my Klipsch RF-83 fronts using my current receiver and noticed much smoother highs with slightly tighter bass, and was happy with what it achieved. But I am purchasing either the AVM50 or the D2 in the next few weeks and would like to make sure that if I do end up bi-amping my fronts that it would be possible.


Fitzy


----------



## yatchaks

I will be ordering a new HDMI cable Today to hopefully combat the constant audio and or video dropouts headache I have with my Tivo S3. I have swapped out HDMI cables with extra Monoprice cables I had laying around, but it didn't help.


I'm not one to spend big money on cables, never had a reason to, but am willing to try anything at this point.


I wanted to order from our site sponsers (Blue jean/Ram), but dont know if this would be much of an upgrade to the Monoprice cables I have now.


Should I get a second cable as well, and replace the HDMI out of the Anthem to the TV?


A few of you swapped cables out and it helped. Would you mind directing me to what worked for you?



Thanks,


Mark


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After once having downloaded software into the avm50, making it inoperative, I will never attempt it again, and no, I didn't use a usb to serial adapter. As to the Directv unit being responsible for the handshake issues, or cables, all I can say is I bought the best cables made, have no adapter anywhere in the lines and my longest run is jsut short of 15' to the projector, all well within operational guidelines. If the AVM50 can't recognize a handshake from a hd directv box, which is the main reason to buy the unit in the first place, Anthem has a very serious problem and should either fix it, pull the unit from the market until they have working software, and I mean working 100% of the time, which is why you're paying thousands for a quality product, or warn people that the risk of the unit working with very common components is at the risk of the consumer, with the result that it should properly scare most buyers away. No vendor, regardless of how good their product works when it works, should be selling a product that doesn't work properly all of the time because it can't be used effectively with the nmost common components it has been designed to operate seamlessly with.
> 
> Sorry to be so harsh, especially to those that strongly support Anthem's valiant efforts, but no one should accept this kind of performance.



I don't agree with you. On top of the D2 I had the DVDO VP50 for a few months. In my setup the D2 is more stable. The main issue I had was freezing and handshaking issues. The freezing issue was really bad since my projector was frozen to a point that a power cycle was required to bring it back. I resolved ALL the FREEZING issues with a set of ULTRALINK PRO HDMI cables. The handshaking between my HDA1 and my projector was difficult but had anything to do with the D2. The D2 in the loop just make the thing a bit slower. Now I just got a Pioneer Blu-Ray BDP-HD1. The connection is fast and rock solid. Now I got rid of the HDA1 and ordered a XA2 and hope it will be as rock solid than the BDP-HD1. My SA8300HD is rock solid since I changed the Cable.


Conclusion most of the issues we are getting are related to bad HDMI implementation in lots of sources.


----------



## rlockshin

BAD NEWS


1.11b does not fix 1080i problem. I installed it on my D2 and it did not fix issue. Called Anthem and they said hat they are aware of that fact. Why would they release software and claim that i fixes issue and it does not?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will be ordering a new HDMI cable Today to hopefully combat the constant audio and or video dropouts headache I have with my Tivo S3. I have swapped out HDMI cables with extra Monoprice cables I had laying around, but it didn't help.
> 
> 
> I'm not one to spend big money on cables, never had a reason to, but am willing to try anything at this point.
> 
> 
> I wanted to order from our site sponsers (Blue jean/Ram), but dont know if this would be much of an upgrade to the Monoprice cables I have now.
> 
> 
> Should I get a second cable as well, and replace the HDMI out of the Anthem to the TV?
> 
> 
> A few of you swapped cables out and it helped. Would you mind directing me to what worked for you?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Mark



I am using the Ultralink Pro HDMI and it work flawlessly. I also got good results with Wireworld 5.2 series and audioquest HDMI-3. Meanwhile, the last two didn't provide any benefice compared to the Ultralink and since they are way more expensive, I returned them and kept the Ultralink.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BAD NEWS
> 
> 
> 1.11b does not fix 1080i problem. I installed it on my D2 and it did not fix issue. Called Anthem and they said hat they are aware of that fact. Why would they release software and claim that i fixes issue and it does not?



All that means is they don't have a handle on the problem yet. Since the problem only affects some machines (rumor is about 10%) what they changed in 1.11b may have simply concealed the problem in their internal test machine instead of actually fixing it.


We need to get a handle on 1.11b here. As I recall we have one report that 1.11b eliminates audio problems on power up -- a good thing.


Does it also eliminate video problems on power up?


Does it fix (or perhaps conceal) the 1080i problem for anyone?


Does it fix any of the other more nuisance issues out there such as unexpected changes of the Scale Out setting for the input selected at power up? Or the inability to use Simulcast because the remote control procedure unexpectedly also shifts you to the next overlayed input?


Does it install more reliably?


Does it BREAK anything?

--Bob


----------



## drlopezmdfacc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I am watching a satellite broadcast (Let's say, for example, an old episold of Seinfeld) with the sat receiver set to 480i and the Anthem upconverting it to 1080i, should it be considerably better than if I were to leave the sat receiver set to 1080i?
> 
> 
> I realize, if I leave the Sat set at 1080i, it means the satellite receiver is upconverting the signal rather than the Anthem which should be crappy compared to the Anthem doing the upconverting, right?
> 
> 
> The reason I am asking is because I see no difference. Seinfeld looks crappy regardless how I have things set and I don't see any noticeable difference, if any at all.
> 
> 
> I have been very patient with all the software glitches we have had so far and also very impressed with Anthems customer service in trying to resolve such issues, however, my question above makes me wonder what all the hype is about with regards to the Gennum scaler and why I spent all this $$ on this particular Anthem piece? Am I totally missing something here?
> 
> 
> Bob....can you help?



I have cable with a Scientific Atlanta DVR. There is a significant difference in video output (better color, more definition, and a full 16:9 output without using the "stretch" option meaning that the aspect ratio of the picture is more pleasing)using 1080i to the Anthem and 1080i back to my TV as opposed to just 1080i from the cable box to the TV. Thank goodness since I am a big basketball fan and my San Antonio Spurs broadcast half their games on a crappy SD channel! I am very happy with the D2, though I am still learning how to best take advantage of it.


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Unfortunately that means that every HDMI receiver and pre/pro on the planet would have to be pulled from the market until all of the faulty, legacy, HDMI source devices are recalled and repaired. This includes most cable HDTV boxes and quite a few satellite HDTV boxes.
> 
> 
> That said, the Anthem actually does way better than most receivers and pre/pros out there in compensating for the bugs in various source devices. The HDMI Repeater setting in the Anthem, for example, is not found in any HDMI receiver I know of.
> 
> 
> As for your specific problem, I just want to double check that you have HDMI Repeater=NO set for that AVM50 HDMI input, correct? This dramatically simplifies what the source device has to do, and improves the chances it will do it without a hiccup. If you are using that HDMI source via several different source signal paths (the buttons along the bottom of the Anthem remote), then you need to set HDMI Repeater=NO for each of those inputs.
> 
> 
> Again, it is each source device that manages the setup and verification of the HDCP (copy protection) portion of HDMI. When the Anthem, or any other device, is placed between the source and the display the SOURCE has to do more complicated stuff. This is just the way HDMI is designed. Unfortunately there are way too many HDMI source devices out there which don't do this correctly -- largely because HDMI receivers and pre/pros are just now becoming common.
> 
> --Bob




Well, I owe the board and Anthem an apology, I had hdmi repeater set to yes. I have no idea why. The other thing I can't seem to understand is how to set the "frame lock" control and, as always, would appreciate your help.


----------



## dmorse4765

I am one of the 10% group. I have been working with Nick at Anthem because I cannot get 1.11 or 1.11b to install. I have tried with 3 different pc's and laptops with no success, and followed all of Bob P and Levesque's instructions. I went from 1.06 to 1.10 with no problems at all. I have the 1080i bug with my directv H-10 series. Is there anyone with the D2 and Directv outputting 1080i that is not having a problem. If you are not having the problem please give any tips on cables or any item we may have overlooked. Possibly even the software version on the stb. On my Hd Dvr there was a software upgrade on the 19th. I moved it from the bedroom to the D2 for curiosity and experienced the same problem as before. For the H10 there is no softwre upgrade scheduled as of yet. I have confidence that Anthem is working on this night and day.


Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The other thing I can't seem to understand is how to set the "frame lock" control and, as always, would appreciate your help.



The instructions regarding how and when to use Frame Lock in the Video Source Adjust menu portion of the Anthem V1.1x manual really say it as best as it can be said.


If your display doesn't accept /24Hz video input (i.e., film rate input) and offer the option of displaying it at a refresh rate which is a multiple of /24Hz, then leave Frame Lock in it's factory default setting of OFF. Frame Lock offers nothing for that very common type of display. This would include all traditional TVs and MOST of the HDTVs out there.


If you have one of the few displays out there which can accept film rate video input and produce judder free imagery by displaying it at a film rate refresh rate then you may want to experiment with Frame Lock = Auto.


To do this, FIRST set your default video output frame rate to /24Hz (or /48Hz using the custom options in Live Video Settings Editor). For most such displays today, this will be 1080p/24Hz or 1080p/48Hz. Then use the Frame Lock = Auto setting to automatically change that output frame rate back to /60Hz when viewing video based content (TV shows or DVDs of TV shows, and also DVDs of some computer generated animated movies that have been re-mastered "direct to DVD"). With Frame Lock = Auto, the Anthem senses the incoming frame rate and tracks it for output.


With Frame Lock = Auto, a source that sends /24Hz video, such as a 1080p/24Hz HD-DVD or Blue Ray player, will have that video go through the Anthem and remain at /24Hz.


So normal TV, and /24Hz output devices all work automatically for you.


However, when watching a film-stock based movie on TV or standard DVD, change to Frame Lock = OFF! This turns off the automatic tracking of the input frame rate, and since you have set your default output frame rate to /24Hz the Anthem will now convert the 30Hz input from the TV channel or DVD to 24Hz output by detecting and removing the replicated fields that are already inserted into that film-based content to raise it up to the 30Hz TV rate needed by normal TVs.


For TV inputs then, you would likely start with Frame Lock = Auto and temporarily change it to OFF when watching a movie. For standard DVD inputs you would likely start with Frame Lock = OFF and temporarily change it to AUTO when watching a DVD of a TV show. For a suitable HD-DVD or Blue Ray player you would likely start with Frame Lock = Auto and temporarily change it to OFF when watching a STANDARD DVD which happens to also be of a TV show -- with the player's output set to 480i for standard DVD playback.


There's a shortcut to alter the Frame Lock setting available under the Mode key on the Anthem remote.


Again, MOST TVs and displays out there right now can not take advantage of the Anthem's Frame Lock feature, so just leave it OFF.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have cable with a Scientific Atlanta DVR. There is a significant difference in video output (better color, more definition, and a full 16:9 output without using the "stretch" option meaning that the aspect ratio of the picture is more pleasing)using 1080i to the Anthem and 1080i back to my TV as opposed to just 1080i from the cable box to the TV. Thank goodness since I am a big basketball fan and my San Antonio Spurs broadcast half their games on a crappy SD channel! I am very happy with the D2, though I am still learning how to best take advantage of it.



The ideal arrangement for watching SDTV from a DVR like this would be as follows:


1) Set the DVR video output resolution -- when watching SDTV -- to HDMI 480i -- or Component 480i if your DVR doesn't support HDMI 480i. Again this is the ideal since it means the set top box is doing NOTHING to the incoming SDTV signal -- the Anthem does all de-interlacing and scaling. Some set top boxes offer a setting to switch to 480i automatically when watching SDTV.


2) Set the DVR to expect a 16:9 TV. Set the DVR to "uniformly stretch" 4:3 programs left and right to fill the 16:9 screen. Although this LOOKS LIKE the DVR is fiddling with the image, in REALITY the DVR is doing NOTHING to the image. There are the same number of pixels across each line, they are just interpreted as fatter. If, on the other hand, you set the DVR to generate pillar box bars on either side of your 4:3 SDTV content it will in fact waste many of the low-resolution (480i) pixels across each line producing those bars -- leaving only a few pixels in the center to carry the original program content. Some set top boxes offer two different types of "stretch" here. The one you want is the one that is described as stretching uniformly across the screen instead of the one concentrating the stretching to either side.


3) Set the Anthem to Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box when you want to see your SDTV in its original shape. The ANTHEM will then generate the pillar box bars. But it does so at the high resolution coming out of the scaler so there are still plenty of pixels in the middle to hold the original program content. If you prefer to watch your SDTV stretched left and right to fill the 16:9 screen, set your Anthem to Scale Out = Anamorphic and it will leave the image unaltered (i.e., the orignal, fatter pixels). The Anthem's Panoramic setting does the other kind of shape adjustment -- concentrating the stretching to the sides so that the center of the image is less distorted. Again, all this language is backwards from what is really happening. Anamorphic really does nothing -- no stretch. And Panoramic actually "compresses" the middle a bit to partially return the middle of the image back towards its original shape. Variable width pixels again.


4) As always, leave the Anthem's video output set to the one best output resolution for your display -- as close as it will accept to its "native" resolution.


Now if you do all that and the image looks too dark or looks "washed out" compared to your HDTV viewing then your set top box has a very common problem -- its black levels differ for 480i output compared to 480p and above. This problem may only exist for its Component 480i output, or may ALSO be on HDMI 480i output. A very few set top boxes that exhibit this problem by default also have a black output control (offering just two choices) that will fix this when toggled. The two choices could be labeled just about anything. Commonly found are "0" vs "7.5", "lighter" vs. "darker", and "normal" vs. "extended". Pick the one that makes your SDTV at 480i match most closely with your HDTV at 1080i, and double check to make sure changing that setting hasn't now screwed up your HDTV!


However even if the set top box offers no help the Anthem gives you an easy way to fix that. Just use one overlayed input (e.g., TV1) for HDTV viewing and another (e.g., TV2) for SDTV viewing! And then make the necessary level adjustments in the Anthem Video Source Adjust menu for TV2. Use the Anthem's Brightness control to adjust black levels, and then double check that you don't have to refine its Contrast setting for white levels as well.


Fortunately this 480i black levels problem is becoming less and less common, so most people won't have to use different Anthem levels for SDTV viewing.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz

When running video through the AVM50 or D2 does it automatically scale up to 1080p then back down to the desired resolution for your video display. I only have a 480p projector right now and may upgrade to a 720p projector soon and would like to know if I will even be able to utilize the gennum video scaler?


Thanks


Fitzy


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

Wow! I am running home to try this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When running video through the AVM50 or D2 does it automatically scale up to 1080p then back down to the desired resolution for your video display. I only have a 480p projector right now and may upgrade to a 720p projector soon and would like to know if I will even be able to utilize the gennum video scaler?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Fitzy



I don't believe we have any definitive word on this.


One reasonable design would be for the video board to scale all video input to 1080p (at the input frame rate) and then adjust from there according to the desired output settings. But that would mean the scaler is "doing stuff" even if 1080i input was supposed to become 1080i output. So maybe not.


The gennum solution is not only for scaling. It is also for de-interlacing and other techy geeky stuff like color format conversionm, film cadence detection, and frame rate conversion. Yes if you get a 720p projector, the gennum stuff will likely give you a superior result to sending the original signals to your projector and letting it do it itself.


In fact, even with your current 480p projector, the Anthems will probably produce better results for you.

--Bob


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BAD NEWS
> 
> 
> 1.11b does not fix 1080i problem. I installed it on my D2 and it did not fix issue. Called Anthem and they said hat they are aware of that fact. Why would they release software and claim that i fixes issue and it does not?




Because they are having a hard time recreating this at Anthem. they are using us to feed back some info. It did fix the 1080i bug on HDMI, I believe, however, the problem still exists on component. Checking a few post back, I believe you would see this is the case. Intermitent problems are not easy to fix. Especially some problems that you can't recreate at the factory.


----------



## KCWolfPck

Hey all, I have a question. I just purchased an Escient media server (MX-111) that I will be using along with a Sony DVD changer.


The connection from the Escient is component for video and toslink for digital audio. The Sony DVD changer will also play SACDs so I will be hooking that up to my AVM-50 via the 6-ch analog audio input.


Is there a way that I can map my CD input to use both the digital audio input (OPT1) and 6-ch at the same time so it will use whatever is receiving a signal a signal?


Thanks.


----------



## muad'dib

I have the sony SXRD 55" rear projection..


I beleive it has be said that the YUV 4:4:4(think that is what it is called) is the best option to send to the t.v.


Now, for setting up colours (using a spydertvpro), does one hook up the dvd player to the T.V. direct then do the process, then after check brightness, contrast thru D2 from sources??


or


Is it better to run the process thru the D2 (running at 1080i from oppo dvd player) ??


The whole RGB / YUV setting thing is a litte confusing.. What should one use in source dvd player (if upconverting to 1080i), and one use for output of scaler??


Thanx all


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey all, I have a question. I just purchased an Escient media server (MX-111) that I will be using along with a Sony DVD changer.
> 
> 
> The connection from the Escient is component for video and toslink for digital audio. The Sony DVD changer will also play SACDs so I will be hooking that up to my AVM-50 via the 6-ch analog audio input.
> 
> 
> Is there a way that I can map my CD input to use both the digital audio input (OPT1) and 6-ch at the same time so it will use whatever is receiving a signal a signal?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



You can't do that with your CD input, but you CAN do that with your 6-chan input!


Go to Setup / Source Setup and select the 6-chan input. Set up as follows:


SCALER INPUT = Component

COMPONENT VIDEO IN = whichever Component video input you are using

AUDIO IN = whichever optical digital audio input you are using

AUTO DIG = YES


If the optical input has a signal, then the digital audio from the optical input will be processed and played.


If the optical input has no signal, then the 6-chan analog audio will be processed and played. Note that Analog-DSP mode will be used rather than Analog-Dir. You have no choice in this when doing AUTO DIG switching.


To get this to work, of course, you will need to shut off the optical digital signal from your media server when you want to listen to SACDs. Of course you can do that by powering off the media server, but muting it should be sufficient.


The AUTO DIG function is in there because some cable TV boxes only output digital audio for some channels. For others they output only analog audio. But it can also be used for the type of thing you are trying to do.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the sony SXRD 55" rear projection..
> 
> 
> I beleive it has be said that the YUV 4:4:4(think that is what it is called) is the best option to send to the t.v.
> 
> 
> Now, for setting up colours (using a spydertvpro), does one hook up the dvd player to the T.V. direct then do the process, then after check brightness, contrast thru D2 from sources??
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 
> Is it better to run the process thru the D2 (running at 1080i from oppo dvd player) ??
> 
> 
> The whole RGB / YUV setting thing is a litte confusing.. What should one use in source dvd player (if upconverting to 1080i), and one use for output of scaler??
> 
> 
> Thanx all



It is best to calibrate your TV using the test charts generated by the Anthem itself (in the Video Source Adjust menu).


If your Spydertvpro product has a sensing mode independent of its own test charts just use that to measure the gray scale and color bar patterns the Anthem will generate. These test patterns are independent of any source device. Make adjustments using your TV's level controls: Brightness for black levels, Contrast for white levels, Color and Tint for color levels, and Sharpness for vertical edge enhancement levels.


Your Spyder product may also offer a way to measure the "color temperature" of white. If so, you can select the color temperature setting in your TV which is closest to 6500K (SMPTE Standard).


When done, your TV's levels are now properly set for the video that the Anthem generates. It is the Anthem's job to convert each and every one of your video sources to that same output signal you just measured.


Now run your test DVD through the D2 to the TV and measure again. The DVD player should be setup they way you would normally use it to play DVDs through the D2. For example, the Oppo player should be set to send HDMI 480i to the D2. Any adjustments that need to be made at this point according to this second set of measurements should *NOT* be made by changing the TV's level controls. They are already "perfect".


Instead make adjustments using the ANTHEM'S level controls. The Anthem provides controls for each input in the Video Source Adjust menu when that input is selected. Once you have done that, this input is calibrated for playing standard DVDs.


The "best" Anthem video input levels may vary a bit for your other input sources. However the Anthem output levels will always match what you have set in your TV during the first stage above, so your TV's controls should stay the same for all inputs.



That said, some people find it convenient to set up two different sets of levels in their TV -- one for critical viewing in a dimly lit room, and another for casual viewing in a more brightly lit room.


--------------------------------------------


You can set YCbCr 4:4:4 data format, and HDTV color space, in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu. These would be quite normal as default settings for HDMI connection to a modern HDTV.


I wrote some detailed posts on YCbCr and RGB just a few pages back in this thread if you need more background on them.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have cable with a Scientific Atlanta DVR. There is a significant difference in video output (better color, more definition, and a full 16:9 output without using the "stretch" option meaning that the aspect ratio of the picture is more pleasing)using 1080i to the Anthem and 1080i back to my TV as opposed to just 1080i from the cable box to the TV. Thank goodness since I am a big basketball fan and my San Antonio Spurs broadcast half their games on a crappy SD channel! I am very happy with the D2, though I am still learning how to best take advantage of it.



I'm glad to hear that you are finding a noticeable difference, but with mine I have not noticed any. On DVD's, the picture is fantastic. I don't know if it is significanly better using the Anthem either though. Where is this stretch mode you are referring to? I recall a zoom feature, but is it something new with 1.11b? Perhaps I don't have it yet since I couldn't get a complete install.


----------



## muad'dib

Thanx Bob..


Awesome advice..










I beleive with the spydertvpro, you have to use their test patterns (supplied on dvd)..


If this is the case, would you then just connect dvd player to tv direct, do the process, and repeat with Anthem??


Thanx again,













> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is best to calibrate your TV using the test charts generated by the Anthem itself (in the Video Source Adjust menu).
> 
> 
> If your Spydertvpro product has a sensing mode independent of its own test charts just use that to measure the gray scale and color bar patterns the Anthem will generate. These test patterns are independent of any source device. Make adjustments using your TV's level controls: Brightness for black levels, Contrast for white levels, Color and Tint for color levels, and Sharpness for vertical edge enhancement levels.
> 
> 
> Your Spyder product may also offer a way to measure the "color temperature" of white. If so, you can select the color temperature setting in your TV which is closest to 6500K (SMPTE Standard).
> 
> 
> When done, your TV's levels are now properly set for the video that the Anthem generates. It is the Anthem's job to convert each and every one of your video sources to that same output signal you just measured.
> 
> 
> Now run your test DVD through the D2 to the TV and measure again. The DVD player should be setup they way you would normally use it to play DVDs through the D2. For example, the Oppo player should be set to send HDMI 480i to the D2. Any adjustments that need to be made at this point according to this second set of measurements should *NOT* be made by changing the TV's level controls. They are already "perfect".
> 
> 
> Instead make adjustments using the ANTHEM'S level controls. The Anthem provides controls for each input in the Video Source Adjust menu when that input is selected. Once you have done that, this input is calibrated for playing standard DVDs.
> 
> 
> The "best" Anthem video input levels may vary a bit for your other input sources. However the Anthem output levels will always match what you have set in your TV during the first stage above, so your TV's controls should stay the same for all inputs.
> 
> 
> 
> That said, some people find it convenient to set up two different sets of levels in their TV -- one for critical viewing in a dimly lit room, and another for casual viewing in a more brightly lit room.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> You can set YCbCr 4:4:4 data format, and HDTV color space, in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu. These would be quite normal as default settings for HDMI connection to a modern HDTV.
> 
> 
> I wrote some detailed posts on YCbCr and RGB just a few pages back in this thread if you need more background on them.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You can't do that with your CD input, but you CAN do that with your 6-chan input!
> 
> 
> Go to Setup / Source Setup and select the 6-chan input. Set up as follows:
> 
> 
> SCALER INPUT = Component
> 
> COMPONENT VIDEO IN = whichever Component video input you are using
> 
> AUDIO IN = whichever optical digital audio input you are using
> 
> AUTO DIG = YES
> 
> 
> If the optical input has a signal, then the digital audio from the optical input will be processed and played.
> 
> 
> If the optical input has no signal, then the 6-chan analog audio will be processed and played. Note that Analog-DSP mode will be used rather than Analog-Dir. You have no choice in this when doing AUTO DIG switching.
> 
> 
> To get this to work, of course, you will need to shut off the optical digital signal from your media server when you want to listen to SACDs. Of course you can do that by powering off the media server, but muting it should be sufficient.
> 
> 
> The AUTO DIG function is in there because some cable TV boxes only output digital audio for some channels. For others they output only analog audio. But it can also be used for the type of thing you are trying to do.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I thought of this while I was lying in my bed last night. I had a feeling I needed to switch over to the 6-Ch input.


Thanks for the confirmation!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanx Bob..
> 
> 
> Awesome advice..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I beleive with the spydertvpro, you have to use their test patterns (supplied on dvd)..
> 
> 
> If this is the case, would you then just connect dvd player to tv direct, do the process, and repeat with Anthem??
> 
> 
> Thanx again,



There's not much value in doing this with the DVD connected directly to the TV because there's no reason to presume the signal coming from the DVD player will match that coming from the Anthem. So setting your TV's levels for the DVD's signal doesn't really help.


If there is no way to use the Spyder product with the Anthem's own test charts, then you should do the Anthem output side of the calibration MANUALLY. Afterwards, you can do the Anthem input side of the calibration using the Spyder and with the test DVD played through the Anthem.


Here's a post I made earlier in this thread which details one way to do the calibration manually for the output side of the Anthem's video:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3post9277613 


However, if you look carefully, I think it likely you will find a way to use much, if not all of the Spyder features using the test charts generated by the Anthem.


For example, look at what the test DVD puts on screen during that process and find which Anthem charts have the same sort of gray scale or color ranges. The sensor won't actually know whether the DVD is playing, as it just sees the image on the screen. You will likely need to manually move the sensor to point at the correct portion of each Anthem chart.

--Bob


----------



## Roomraider

I just recieved an e-mail from nick addressing this issue, included is the latest firmware 1.11c.


Hi,


Beta software attached.


v1.11b that was sent on 16 Jan didn't fix all 1080i problems, particularly

1080i via component from Hughes boxes (DirecTV). Thanks to everyone who

provided feedback on this. To our knowledge, v1.11c fixes the remaining

1080i issues, but if not please let us know the model number of the source.


Other change in v1.11c:

When surfing from 480i to 1080i channel, there should be less picture loss

(where it had been occurring), however, this issue is ongoing.


Best Regards,

Nick P., Technical Support


----------



## bluemark81

Just loaded 1.11c and still came back with message saying cannot connect to new OKI boot loader in external flash. This is the same message I got when loading 1.11b. I'm not sure what this means, but we will continue to try.


----------



## ddimberio

All...what suggestions do you have for someone trying to use 2 displays in the same room using the AVM 50 or D2?


I am contemplating installing an overhead in addition to the TV and have all running throught the AVM 50. Any ideas of how best to achieve this making the use of it as simple as possible.


I was considering running component to the TV (as it can only display 1080i or 720p native) and running HDMI to a projector thereby utilizing both video out sources. Anyhow, just looking for suggestions....Thanks! - David


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

When contacting tech support regarding HDMI connection problems, please keep the observation to premature conclusion ratio high and we'll walk through the rest efficiently.


Finding the causes of never-seen-before problems often requires tools such as a data analyzer and knowledge of specs that would fill a big-city phone book.


To illustrate, some problems that weren't Anthem's fault, contrary to initial user impressions:


- source freezes when preamp ID has more video formats than source can count


- source doesn't connect unless it gets ID info in the order it wants


- HTPC refuses to put out unless ID from preamp says it prefers a progressive format (note that there are more variations of HTPC than easily counted)


- well-known now: cable/sat boxes that only connect to displays


- well-known but not well enough: connecting source straight to display and seeing an image only shows that the cable can carry the video format and resolution coming from that source (not necessarily the video plus audio, nor higher video formats)


To reach tech support, click on the tech support page at anthemav dot com.


Thank you for your time.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When contacting tech support regarding HDMI connection problems, please keep the observation to premature conclusion ratio high and we'll walk through the rest efficiently.
> 
> 
> Finding the causes of never-seen-before problems often requires tools such as a data analyzer and knowledge of specs that would fill a big-city phone book.
> 
> 
> To illustrate, some problems that weren't Anthem's fault, contrary to initial user impressions:
> 
> 
> - source freezes when preamp ID has more video formats than source can count
> 
> 
> - source doesn't connect unless it gets ID info in the order it wants
> 
> 
> - HTPC refuses to put out unless ID from preamp says it prefers a progressive format (note that there are more variations of HTPC than easily counted)
> 
> 
> - well-known now: cable/sat boxes that only connect to displays
> 
> 
> - well-known but not well enough: connecting source straight to display and seeing an image only shows that the cable can carry the video format and resolution coming from that source (not necessarily the video plus audio, nor higher video formats)
> 
> 
> To reach tech support, click on the tech support page at anthemav dot com.
> 
> 
> Thank you for your time.



Nick... all I can say is THANKS


Thanks for indicating some better ways to get user feedback to you, important to keep revisions rolling forward. No switching video drop outs yet for me, which was the last major issue I had (the switching and loosing HDMI audio being fixed).


Any "hints" at greater than 5 Channel PCM cap[ability or does the architecture limit to 5 "channels" of audio data???


I would still argue for stability before new features, but it would be good to get your Anthem zealots (me included) some nuggets


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just recieved an e-mail from nick addressing this issue, included is the latest firmware 1.11c.
> 
> 
> Other change in v1.11c:
> 
> When surfing from 480i to 1080i channel, there should be less picture loss
> 
> (where it had been occurring), however, this issue is ongoing.



This was a major fix for me.


----------



## Nevr2Big

What is the best way to connect a PS3 to ones projector?


As the PS3 is outputting a 1080p signal via HDMI should this go direct to projector in order to avoid any transient delay in gaming induced by the Anthems pass-thru. Or is there no appreciable delays caused by the AnthemD2 when passing the video component of the HDMI signal to the projector making this the prefered pathway?


The soon to be relesaed JVC HD1 has 2 HDMI inputs, and allows me to perseverate whether I should have one dedicated to the D2 with the other going from the PS3 direct. I would probably prefer a sigle cable but would do what is best.


Sorry if this has been covered before (I can't find it). Thanks.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the best way to connect a PS3 to ones projector?
> 
> 
> As the PS3 is outputting a 1080p signal via HDMI should this go direct to projector in order to avoid any transient delay in gaming induced by the Anthems pass-thru. Or is there no appreciable delays caused by the AnthemD2 when passing the video component of the HDMI signal to the projector making this the prefered pathway?
> 
> 
> The soon to be relesaed JVC HD1 has 2 HDMI inputs, and allows me to perseverate whether I should have one dedicated to the D2 with the other going from the PS3 direct. I would probably prefer a sigle cable but would do what is best.
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been covered before (I can't find it). Thanks.




perseverate - psychology: repeat a response after the cessation of the original stimulus; "The subjects in this study perseverated"


Cool.


I'm not a gamer & went through the Anthem and it was fine for movies. Blue Tooth for the remote and rigging a PS2 transceiver was a hassle and ultimately I brought it back and got the Pio...BUT I'm not a gamer ...


Also you MAY want to go through the ANTHEM to peel off the higher def audio using 5.1 PCM (even though the PS3 outputs up to 7.1 PCM and you have to shut off the extra channels in the PS3










Bottom line is the PS3 puts out a great picture for films and movies, and even though passed through video wise, you do have some advantages going through the ANTHEM (eg switch centrally vs introducing switching at the Set, but that may be easier for you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the best way to connect a PS3 to ones projector?
> 
> 
> As the PS3 is outputting a 1080p signal via HDMI should this go direct to projector in order to avoid any transient delay in gaming induced by the Anthems pass-thru. Or is there no appreciable delays caused by the AnthemD2 when passing the video component of the HDMI signal to the projector making this the prefered pathway?
> 
> 
> The soon to be relesaed JVC HD1 has 2 HDMI inputs, and allows me to perseverate whether I should have one dedicated to the D2 with the other going from the PS3 direct. I would probably prefer a sigle cable but would do what is best.
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been covered before (I can't find it). Thanks.



I'd be surprised if you can detect a delay here.


The one spec we have is that the video processing that takes place inside the Anthem adds less than 1 frame of video delay (compared to audio).

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio

I received version 1.11c today from Anthem and loaded it. It seems to have resolved all of my 1080i issues. However, occasionally still, when surfing from channel to channel and switching from 480i to 1080i and so on - I still sometimes get the dreaded blue screen. After this, I have to re-start the Anthem, or switch video inputs - and then switch back to the cable box and the picture reappears.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I received version 1.11c today from Anthem and loaded it. It seems to have resolved all of my 1080i issues. However, occasionally still, when surfing from channel to channel and switching from 480i to 1080i and so on - I still sometimes get the dreaded blue screen. After this, I have to re-start the Anthem, or switch video inputs - and then switch back to the cable box and the picture reappears.



If this is fixed by merely switching inputs and back then odds are you can eliminate it by upgrading and/or shortening the HDMI cable from your set top box to the Anthem.


If it requires an Anthem power cycle to fix that is a known problem that Anthem is still working on.


Both problems are caused by the set top box doing the wrong thing, but it is more likely to do the wrong thing if the cable is not "perfect".

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I received version 1.11c today from Anthem and loaded it. It seems to have resolved all of my 1080i issues. However, occasionally still, when surfing from channel to channel and switching from 480i to 1080i and so on - I still sometimes get the dreaded blue screen. After this, I have to re-start the Anthem, or switch video inputs - and then switch back to the cable box and the picture reappears.



I also installed 1.11c and had mixed results. If my H10 is set to native output it no longer scrambles the signal to my Oppo 970 or Toshiba XA1 at 1080i and they display fine. However the signal for all channels on my tv will not display until I switch H10 back to 720p. Nick is aware of thisand they are working on it. Can't say enough good things about their response and help.


Dick


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also installed 1.11c and had mixed results. If my H10 is set to native output it no longer scrambles the signal to my Oppo 970 or Toshiba XA1 at 1080i and they display fine. However the signal for all channels on my tv will not display until I switch H10 back to 720p. Nick is aware of thisand they are working on it. Can't say enough good things about their response and help.
> 
> 
> Dick




Things are definitely moving in the right direction and I am appreciative of their response as well. I love the product and would not hesitate to recommend it to anyone even in light of these issues which I am 100% confident will be overcome.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Things are definitely moving in the right direction and I am appreciative of their response as well. I love the product and would not hesitate to recommend it to anyone even in light of these issues which I am 100% confident will be overcome.



Do you have Directv or cable. I think most of the problem is with sat set top boxes from what I have heard. Not reallyy an Anthem problem but they are the ones taking the initative to fix it. I also would buy another one or recommend to anyone.


Dick


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you have Directv or cable. I think most of the problem is with sat set top boxes from what I have heard. Not reallyy an Anthem problem but they are the ones taking the initative to fix it. I also would buy another one or recommend to anyone.
> 
> 
> Dick



Cable...a Motorola 6412 DVR I believe.


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The ideal arrangement for watching SDTV from a DVR like this would be as follows:
> 
> 
> 1) Set the DVR video output resolution -- when watching SDTV -- to HDMI 480i -- or Component 480i if your DVR doesn't support HDMI 480i. Again this is the ideal since it means the set top box is doing NOTHING to the incoming SDTV signal -- the Anthem does all de-interlacing and scaling. Some set top boxes offer a setting to switch to 480i automatically when watching SDTV.
> 
> 
> 2) Set the DVR to expect a 16:9 TV. Set the DVR to "uniformly stretch" 4:3 programs left and right to fill the 16:9 screen. Although this LOOKS LIKE the DVR is fiddling with the image, in REALITY the DVR is doing NOTHING to the image. There are the same number of pixels across each line, they are just interpreted as fatter. If, on the other hand, you set the DVR to generate pillar box bars on either side of your 4:3 SDTV content it will in fact waste many of the low-resolution (480i) pixels across each line producing those bars -- leaving only a few pixels in the center to carry the original program content. Some set top boxes offer two different types of "stretch" here. The one you want is the one that is described as stretching uniformly across the screen instead of the one concentrating the stretching to either side.
> 
> 
> 3) Set the Anthem to Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box when you want to see your SDTV in its original shape. The ANTHEM will then generate the pillar box bars. But it does so at the high resolution coming out of the scaler so there are still plenty of pixels in the middle to hold the original program content. If you prefer to watch your SDTV stretched left and right to fill the 16:9 screen, set your Anthem to Scale Out = Anamorphic and it will leave the image unaltered (i.e., the orignal, fatter pixels). The Anthem's Panoramic setting does the other kind of shape adjustment -- concentrating the stretching to the sides so that the center of the image is less distorted. Again, all this language is backwards from what is really happening. Anamorphic really does nothing -- no stretch. And Panoramic actually "compresses" the middle a bit to partially return the middle of the image back towards its original shape. Variable width pixels again....--Bob



Bob: Great tips as usual. However, the situation you describe, above, has always been confusing. All displays and STBs will stretch 4:3 formatted programs when being broadcast in 480i/480p (SDTV channels). I think this is the situation you are describing. Your tips are great under those circumstances.


I've always found that watching 4:3 programming OTA on an HD (720p/1080i) channel offers better PQ and SQ than watching it on a digital only (480i) channel. For me, the problem has always been that very few STBs will allow stretching of 4:3 programming being broadcast over an HD channel (OTA or otherwise). The side black/grey bars are broadcast with the 4:3 programming.


The D* Sony HD200 allows you to *force* a 4:3 formatted program being broadcast on a 720p/1080i channel down to 480p. The program can then be nicely stretched, from the sides, to fill the 16:9 screen. The HD 300 allows this without down-rezzing the output resolution. Although an anamorphically perfect stretch is not possible, the Sony does an excellent job. I greatly perfer this to the side bars. I still watch a lot of 4:3 programming over HD channels.


Will the D2 stretch a 4:3 formatted program from a source, such as the D* HR20, which does *not* allow stretching of 4:3 material being broadcast over an HD channel? If so how? Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob: Great tips as usual. However, the situation you describe, above, has always been confusing. All displays and STBs will stretch 4:3 formatted programs when being broadcast in 480i/480p (SDTV channels). I think this is the situation you are describing. Your tips are great under those circumstances.
> 
> 
> I've always found that watching 4:3 programming OTA on an HD (720p/1080i) channel offers better PQ and SQ than watching it on a digital only (480i) channel. For me, the problem has always been that very few STBs will allow stretching of 4:3 programming being broadcast over an HD channel (OTA or otherwise). The side black/grey bars are broadcast with the 4:3 programming.
> 
> 
> The D* Sony HD200 allows you to *force* a 4:3 formatted program being broadcast on a 720p/1080i channel down to 480p. The program can then be nicely stretched, from the sides, to fill the 16:9 screen. The HD 300 allows this without down-rezzing the output resolution. Although an anamorphically perfect stretch is not possible, the Sony does an excellent job. I greatly perfer this to the side bars. I still watch a lot of 4:3 programming over HD channels.
> 
> 
> Will the D2 stretch a 4:3 formatted program from a source, such as the D* HR20, which does *not* allow stretching of 4:3 material being broadcast over an HD channel? If so how? Thanks.



The short answer is yes! I'll tell you how in a moment (grin!). But here's a hint: It doesn't involve forcing downscaling to 480i or 480p!


First understand that the issue of who does the pillar box bar generation *ONLY* matters if the resolution is still 480i or 480p. If the SDTV has already been scaled up to 720p or 1080i there are plenty of extra pixels per line already. So using some on either side as pillar box bars still leaves enough in the center of each line to carry the entire original information content of the SDTV image embedded in that 16:9 frame.


So for example if you decide you want to use a scaling standard DVD player set to 720p or 1080i output (not recommended, of course since the Anthem scaler is so good) then it is just fine to let the player do pillar box bar generation when watching a 4:3 content disc (as for example a DVD of a TV show).


Similarly if you decide for whatever reason that you want to watch SDTV from your HDTV cable or satellite box with that box doing the scaling to 720p or 1080i (DEFINITELY not recommended since the scalers in these boxes are awful) then it also does no harm to let the set top box generate pillar box bars.


But if the SDTV signal is coming in to the Anthem at 480i or 480p, you do NOT want the source device to generate pillar box bars. Let the Anthem do it using the Scale Out option because, again, that happens AFTER the image has been scaled up.


--------------------------------------------------------------------


What I'm leading to here is that there is no problem when an HD station sends you a 1080i or 720p 4:3 program which is pillar boxed. The pillar box bars are added AFTER the image has been scaled up to 720p or 1080i.


And generally the reason it looks better is that their HD transmission is technically cleaner than their SD transmission. OTA SDTV is damaged by the way the signal is modulated into TV transmission frequencies and then demodulated in the TV tuner. And SDTV via cable or satellite is often either over-compressed or damaged in other ways in the video chain from the station to your TV. It could be as simple as the quality of the video tape they are playing or the player they are using.


[DirecTV is a major offender here -- dramatically over-compressing many of its SDTV channels.]


One of the more subtle improvements is that the HD "color space" is richer than the SD "color space".


So yes, watching SDTV on HDTV channels can lead to good results. Although if you are seeing DRAMATICALLY better results that indicates the corresponding SDTV channels have problems.


---------------------------------------------------------------------


OK back to your question.


The trick is to set the Anthem's Crop Input setting to 4:3 in the Video Source Adjust menu! There is also a shortcut to this available under the Mode key on the remote.


Having done that, the 4:3 image embedded in the 16:9 HDTV frame is extracted (by cropping the sides) just as if 4:3 content had been sent to the Anthem in the first place.


And having done THAT, you can now set the Anthem's Scale Out to Anamorphic and the image will be uniformly stretched to fill the 16:9 screen!


Or you could set the Anthem's Scale Out to Panoramic to get the non-uniform stretch that also (almost) fills the screen but leaves the center of the image less distorted because the stretching is non-uniform.


But wait there's more! You could set the Anthem's Scale Out to Letter/Pillar Box and get a 4:3 image embedded in a pillar boxed 16:9 frame! Urh why would you want to do that, you ask? Isn't that what you started with?


Yes, except THESE pillar box bars are generated by the Anthem instead of by the source station -- which means you get to contol their color! Cool, eh?


Next, as an excercise for the reader: Try experimenting with the combination of Crop Input / Edges On as part of this. There are some useful tricks here for cleaning up the edges of noisy 4:3 content embedded this way.


Your Anthem Video Source Adjust options! Collect them all!

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Next, as an excercise for the reader: Try experimenting with the combination of Crop Input / Edges On as part of this. There are some useful tricks here for cleaning up the edges of noisy 4:3 content embedded this way.
> 
> 
> Your Anthem Video Source Adjust options! Collect them all!
> 
> --Bob



Now if we could get some one or two button pushes to execute some of the defaults, e.g.,


1) SD letterbox (not anamorphic) to 16x9 fill (as much as possible w/o losing content or marginal on sides.

2) SD Pillarboxed per above.


Then I would actually use the true capabilities, understanding garbage in = better processed garbage out.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now if we could get some one or two button pushes to execute some of the defaults, e.g.,
> 
> 
> 1) SD letterbox (not anamorphic) to 16x9 fill (as much as possible w/o losing content or marginal on sides.
> 
> 2) SD Pillarboxed per above.
> 
> 
> Then I would actually use the true capabilities, understanding garbage in = better processed garbage out.



I actually do (1) rather a lot since my cable service happens to have some good quality SDTV feeds that show wide screen movies embedded in the 4:3 SDTV frame.


(1) is achieved by setting Crop Input = 16:9. Scale Out can be left at whatever you like -- I usually leave it at Letter/Pillar Box.


The wide screen movie embedded in the 4:3 SDTV frame will be extracted as a 16:9 frame that is scaled to fill the screen from left to right. Top to bottom may or may not be filled depending upon whether the movie is actually wide screen or wider than wide screen. There is no distortion in this -- original aspect ratio of the film is preserved.


------------------------------------------------------------


Crop Input has a short cut under the Mode key. Hold the Mode key for a few seconds and it will switch to the Scale Out short cut. View you current Scale Out setting and modify it using the up or down arrows. Release the Mode key, pause briefly, and press and release the Mode key once again and this will change to the Crop Input short cut. View your current Crop Input setting and modify it using the up or down arrows.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

After loading 1.11c, I lost the video to the display altogether. I tried shutting everything off and back on and still no display. Also tried switching video out preferred to component and still nothing. Sometimes when I shut off and on, video to display will work and other times I only get black screen. I've ended up going back to 1.11b and all is working fine again.


I've notified Nick and hopefully they come up with a solution for this new issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After loading 1.11c, I lost the video to the display altogether. I tried shutting everything off and back on and still no display. Also tried switching video out preferred to component and still nothing. Sometimes when I shut off and on, video to display will work and other times I only get black screen. I've ended up going back to 1.11b and all is working fine again.
> 
> 
> I've notified Nick and hopefully they come up with a solution for this new issue.



Did you actually get a V1.11c install to work without any error messages such as the OKI message? That is, is your loss of video the result of a V1.11c that appeared to install properly? Or did this install also produce errors.


I'm trying to get a handle on whether your problem is more of an install problem or of a failure even after the install seemed to work correctly.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did you actually get a V1.11c install to work without any error messages such as the OKI message? That is, is your loss of video the result of a V1.11c that appeared to install properly? Or did this install also produce errors.
> 
> 
> I'm trying to get a handle on whether your problem is more of an install problem or of a failure even after the install seemed to work correctly.
> 
> --Bob




Bob:


Still getting the "cannot connect to OKI" with 1.11b and 1.11c, but only the loss of video with 1.11c. So, with both of these I am not getting complete install, however, with 1.11b, I don't notice any significant issues so far which is why I reinstalled it.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Crop Input has a short cut under the Mode key. Hold the Mode key for a few seconds and it will switch to the Scale Out short cut. View you current Scale Out setting and modify it using the up or down arrows. Release the Mode key, pause briefly, and press and release the Mode key once again and this will change to the Crop Input short cut. View your current Crop Input setting and modify it using the up or down arrows.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Your the best. I could have came out and asked about how to do the mode, but I knew your answer would be so complete, I didn't have to show how little I know









Thanks!

Tim


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Still getting the "cannot connect to OKI" with 1.11b and 1.11c, but only the loss of video with 1.11c. So, with both of these I am not getting complete install, however, with 1.11b, I don't notice any significant issues so far which is why I reinstalled it.



This is something Nick can roll in like the multiple versions of 1.11b. I had same error, but lost it with the production 11b and no issues 1.11c.


I have found I still have some missing video (blue screen of sound) issues but if I jump screens, titles, or menus it comes back. No need to reboot almost a week going and very happy.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is something Nick can roll in like the multiple versions of 1.11b.



Sorry, I don't understand what you mean by this statement.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since downloading 1.11b, my sub is now playing for CD listening even though I have it turned off in my music speaker configuration. This is how I have my music speaker configuration set:
> 
> 
> a = no;
> 
> b = Large;
> 
> c = None;
> 
> d = Small;
> 
> e = Small;
> 
> f = None - this is the sub setting;
> 
> g = 65 Hz - I didn't think this was even selectable if "f" was set to none prior to 1.11b, but I may be wrong;
> 
> h = off;
> 
> etc
> 
> 
> I am experiencing other problems since the new download but these are primarily all video related, that I've noticed, until now.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this?



The above noted issue is still occurring with me. What I have discovered though, is if I enter my setup screen for music configuration and then back out without changing a thing, the sub turns off. If I don't enter the music config screen, the sub will continue to play even though it should not for the configuration I have it set to.


Now, I don't know if this was one of the issues fixed with 1.11c, because I am still using b, since c will not work for me.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry, I don't understand what you mean by this statement.




If you are working the betas (or any release) through Anthem support, let them know where the load fails, and they can work to fix it.


They fixed a similar issue for me.


----------



## 3no

drhankz, levesque, anyone with a ruby... I've just ordered a D2 from my local dealer, and while waiting for it to arrive (2-3 weeks lead time) have been plowing through this thread looking for useful information (lot's of it).


One of the few questions not answered elsewhere in this thread: does my ruby want YCbCr 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 input? Can't find the answer in the ruby manual or elsewhere in this forum.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you are working the betas (or any release) through Anthem support, let them know where the load fails, and they can work to fix it.
> 
> 
> They fixed a similar issue for me.




Thanks, they are well aware of the issues I have been having but I like to see if other owners have similar type issues and sometimes there is a fix without it being a software upgrade. Sometimes could be my own stupidity.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, they are well aware of the issues I have been having but I like to see if other owners have similar type issues and sometimes there is a fix without it being a software upgrade. Sometimes could be my own stupidity.



I also installed 1.11c and had mixed results. If my H10 is set to native output it no longer scrambles the signal to my Oppo 970 or Toshiba XA1 at 1080i and they display fine. However the signal for all channels on my tv will not display until I switch H10 back to 720p. Nick is aware of thisand they are working on it. Can't say enough good things about their response and help.

I also had the OKI loader failure with 1.11b. After Nick sent me 1.11c I saved my settings and reloaded factory defaults. 1.11c installed easily. I then reloaded factory defaults again then restored my user setting. I run my sub with music and cinema with different levels and have had no audio issues. I will try to disable mine on music today and see if I can replicate your problem. I will let you know later today.


Dick


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also installed 1.11c and had mixed results. If my H10 is set to native output it no longer scrambles the signal to my Oppo 970 or Toshiba XA1 at 1080i and they display fine. However the signal for all channels on my tv will not display until I switch H10 back to 720p. Nick is aware of thisand they are working on it. Can't say enough good things about their response and help.
> 
> I also had the OKI loader failure with 1.11b. After Nick sent me 1.11c I saved my settings and reloaded factory defaults. 1.11c installed easily. I then reloaded factory defaults again then restored my user setting. I run my sub with music and cinema with different levels and have had no audio issues. I will try to disable mine on music today and see if I can replicate your problem. I will let you know later today.
> 
> 
> Dick



Thanks.


I don't think I even tried the sub issue with 1.11c, where I couldn't get a pic, I didn't leave it loaded long before going back to 1.11b. The issues have been frustrating, however, I agree about Anthem service. I never expected such good service when I bought the Anthem. I'm sure other manufacturers are not as responsive. Hopefully all the issues everyone is having can get resolved soon enough.


----------



## drmabuse

Hi, I am attempting to update to v 1.11 and getting an odd error which I have not seen before.

Says "Unable to connect to OKI boot loader".

Anyone seen this - any ideas what is or is not happening?

I have done updates on my AVM2, AVM20 and now my D2 and have not seen this one before.

Thx!


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> I don't think I even tried the sub issue with 1.11c, where I couldn't get a pic, I didn't leave it loaded long before going back to 1.11b. The issues have been frustrating, however, I agree about Anthem service. I never expected such good service when I bought the Anthem. I'm sure other manufacturers are not as responsive. Hopefully all the issues everyone is having can get resolved soon enough.



Bluemark

If you go to Music configuration and set your front speakers to large and then scroll down to the Subwoofer tab it will give you the option to turn the sub off. Make sure you have the speakers to large or it will not give you the option to turn it off. For CD's I really like the anthem logic. Try it once and I think you will want to leave the sub on. Hope this helps. I am using 1.11c but I believe this works in 1.11b the same way because if I remember correctly it also worked in 1.10

Dick


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi, I am attempting to update to v 1.11 and getting an odd error which I have not seen before.
> 
> Says "Unable to connect to OKI boot loader".
> 
> Anyone seen this - any ideas what is or is not happening?
> 
> I have done updates on my AVM2, AVM20 and now my D2 and have not seen this one before.
> 
> Thx!



Very common on about 10% of the units. Read some previous posts about 3 pages back. If none of the options work you will have to email Anthem Tech support. If you read my previous post you can see what worked for me.


Dick


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi, I am attempting to update to v 1.11 and getting an odd error which I have not seen before.
> 
> Says "Unable to connect to OKI boot loader".
> 
> Anyone seen this - any ideas what is or is not happening?
> 
> I have done updates on my AVM2, AVM20 and now my D2 and have not seen this one before.
> 
> Thx!



Send me your email address and I will send you 1.11c. I just noticed you were trying 1.11. 1.11`c will probably work for you. However still read the previous post by Bob P. And Levesque about the best method for installing.


Dick


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz, levesque, anyone with a ruby... I've just ordered a D2 from my local dealer, and while waiting for it to arrive (2-3 weeks lead time) have been plowing through this thread looking for useful information (lot's of it).
> 
> 
> One of the few questions not answered elsewhere in this thread: does my ruby want YCbCr 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 input? Can't find the answer in the ruby manual or elsewhere in this forum.



Maybe Mr. Levesque knows for sure.


I just feed my Ruby with HDMI out from the D2 and

I put the HDMI Color Space in AUTO.


I assume AUTO means the BOXES are smart enough

to figure it out







If not it looks awesome anyway.


----------



## ILhometheater

My work email filters .zip files so the update that Nick sent didn't get through. He did send me 1.11c to a home address but after updating things are less stable than they were with 1.11. I'd like to try 1.11b since it seems that more people had luck with that one.


P.S. How do you upload pics of your home theater? I finally finished mine and would love some feedback.


Thanks!


-Mike


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick... all I can say is THANKS....
> 
> 
> Any "hints" at greater than 5 Channel PCM capability or does the architecture limit to 5 "channels" of audio data???....





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also you MAY want to go through the ANTHEM to peel off the higher def audio using 5.1 PCM (even though the PS3 outputs up to 7.1 PCM and you have to shut off the extra channels in the PS3



I noticed no one answered rudolph's question. In order to upgrade the D2 so it can accept and process Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA 7.1 in a LPCM stream, will it require new hardware rather than just a software update? If so will we need to wait for a D3 before Anthem can accomplish this feat?


Given the inevitability of 7.1 this is an interesting topic.


Lord of the Rings "will be the first titles to use Dolby TrueHD 7.1 Audio *crosses fingers for 24bit*"


I know the D2 can take a 5.1 LPCM stream and matrix it into 7.1 audio, but 7.1 discrete channels is the next dream for HT (movie) audiophiles , isnt it?


It's a sign of the times that some of the *new* (last few months and now being released) moderately priced receivers will be able to surpass the D2, *in this limited area*.


I know the films that will have 7.1 Dolby True HD and DTS-HD MA lossless audio tracks will be limited, for awhile, but still ... Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




DOBE said:


> I noticed no one answered rudolph's question. In order to upgrade the D2 so it can accept and process Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA 7.1 in a LPCM stream, will it require new hardware rather than just a software update? If so will we need to wait for a D3 before Anthem can accomplish this feat?/QUOTE]
> 
> 
> I don't believe we know the answer to this yet. And the answer may be different for the D2 (and D1 upgraded to D1-HD) than for the AVM-40 and AVM-50 due to the spare DSP power in the D2.
> 
> 
> It is clear that changing to HDMI V1.3 would require a hardware change. The HDMI chips for V1.3 are different.
> 
> 
> It is not clear that changing the audio processing path for PCM via HDMI to 7.1 from 5.1 needs new hardware.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

I just got my d2 this weekend, setting up is pretty easy so far










I have one question, I have the a2 setup on hdmi 1 when playing hulk hd Im on showing 48kz on the status the display on the unit reads dvd1 auto-dig 5.1


the marantz sr9600 receiver I had showed 96kz with hd am I not setting it right?


also what res should I set the a2 at I have a 7205 (infocus)


thanks, Bob


----------



## drhankz




Bob Pariseau said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is not clear that changing the audio processing path for PCM via HDMI to 7.1 from 5.1 needs new hardware.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> *Mr. LEVESQUE* - Did say the 7.1 D2 Limitation was a *Motorola*
> *Chip* in the D2 Audio Path. I don't know which *Motorola chip
> * he is referring to. But any chip causing a limitation will usually
> 
> mean it will not be fixed with a software upgrade.
Click to expand...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my d2 this weekend, setting up is pretty easy so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have one question, I have the a2 setup on hdmi 1 when playing hulk hd Im on showing 48kz on the status the display on the unit reads dvd1 auto-dig 5.1
> 
> 
> the marantz sr9600 receiver I had showed 96kz with hd am I not setting it right?
> 
> 
> also what res should I set the a2 at I have a 7205 (infocus)
> 
> 
> thanks, Bob



The D2's "auto-dig 5.1" status display simply means it has detected a multi-channel digital audio signal for that input.


To see what bandwidth of digital audio signal the D2 is receiving, press Select on the remote multiple times. Each press brings up the next set of status display info.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi, I am attempting to update to v 1.11 and getting an odd error which I have not seen before.
> 
> Says "Unable to connect to OKI boot loader".
> 
> Anyone seen this - any ideas what is or is not happening?
> 
> I have done updates on my AVM2, AVM20 and now my D2 and have not seen this one before.
> 
> Thx!




I have been getting that error for 1.11, 1.11b and 1.11c. Anthem is supposed to be working on it. My understanding is that it has to do with the pc's we are using. Somewhat of a compatibility issue. They told me to try to download software using a different pc.


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2's "auto-dig 5.1" status display simply means it has detected a multi-channel digital audio signal for that input.
> 
> 
> To see what bandwidth of digital audio signal the D2 is receiving, press Select on the remote multiple times. Each press brings up the next set of status display info.
> 
> --Bob




thanks Bob, I know what status Im getting 48kz Im wondering why Im not getting 96kz for hd dvd? is there a setting I have to change in the d2. btw I have the a2 set to pcm


thanks, bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> btw I have the a2 set to pcm
> 
> 
> thanks, bob




A2 set to PCM is correct.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> thanks Bob, I know what status Im getting 48kz Im wondering why Im not getting 96kz for hd dvd? is there a setting I have to change in the d2. btw I have the a2 set to pcm
> 
> 
> thanks, bob



What disc and audio track? Not all HD-DVD audio tracks are above 48Khz.

--Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

u571 and hulk


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

I noticed a problem, I have the video output set to 1280x720/60 which looks great, but when I turn off the d2 and power back on I get a pinkish/light blue screen. I have to change the setting to say 1280x720/30 and then back to 1280x720/60 to get the correct picture back. I tried upluging the unit first but that didnt help.


any ideas, thank, Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> thanks Bob, I know what status Im getting 48kz Im wondering why Im not getting 96kz for hd dvd? is there a setting I have to change in the d2. btw I have the a2 set to pcm
> 
> 
> thanks, bob



The A2/XA2 switches HDMI between 48 and 96 depending on what setting the SPDIF output is set at (bitstream or PCM)..... It shouldn't, but it does... I think that it has something to do with using a common clock and whereas the old units upconverted everything to 96k (and I am speculating that they did the on route to the DTS encoder)... not the way it should work...


48k is what all of the discs are at... IMHO, that is the prefered output, and you can let the D2 do the upconverting for ya... and if you set the HDMI to "Auto", you will get decoded PCM for HD DVD's and bitstreams for SD DVD's.


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The A2/XA2 switches HDMI between 48 and 96 depending on what setting the SPDIF output is set at (bitstream or PCM)..... It shouldn't, but it does... I think that it has something to do with using a common clock and whereas the old units upconverted everything to 96k (and I am speculating that they did the on route to the DTS encoder)... not the way it should work...
> 
> 
> 48k is what all of the discs are at... IMHO, that is the prefered output, and you can let the D2 do the upconverting for ya... and if you set the HDMI to "Auto", you will get decoded PCM for HD DVD's and bitstreams for SD DVD's.



edit,

thanks to all for all the responses, I changed the setting in the A2 from bitstream to pcm in the digital out spdif and left digital out hdmi to auto and bingo 96khz


thanks again,


Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I noticed a problem, I have the video output set to 1280x720/60 which looks great, but when I turn off the d2 and power back on I get a pinkish/light blue screen. I have to change the setting to say 1280x720/30 and then back to 1280x720/60 to get the correct picture back. I tried upluging the unit first but that didnt help.
> 
> 
> any ideas, thank, Bob



That is a bug which used to be common, but is much less so with the current D2 software.


What version of D2 software are you using? Press Select once on the remote and the version will be at the end of the first line of status info.


This may possibly also be an indication that you need to upgrade either your input HDMI cables your output HDMI cable or both.

--Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

I also want to mention that the d2 is absolutely gorgous! great build,sound and picture very nice so far. Its nice to know that this piece will be supported and upgraded for many years to come. It matches up very nice with my paradigm sigs and my twin logan decent subs










Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is a bug which used to be common, but is much less so with the current D2 software.
> 
> 
> What version of D2 software are you using? Press Select once on the remote and the version will be at the end of the first line of status info.
> 
> 
> This may possibly also be an indication that you need to upgrade either your input HDMI cables your output HDMI cable or both.
> 
> --Bob




Bob I have ver1. 11 this unit supposedly came off the assembly line last week


if it persists I will contact nick, thanks Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been getting that error for 1.11, 1.11b and 1.11c. Anthem is supposed to be working on it. My understanding is that it has to do with the pc's we are using. Somewhat of a compatibility issue. They told me to try to download software using a different pc.



That stinks (or not if you have another computer). I was told that there were revisions to the unit itself that necessitated the change.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is a bug which used to be common, but is much less so with the current D2 software.
> 
> 
> What version of D2 software are you using? Press Select once on the remote and the version will be at the end of the first line of status info.
> 
> 
> This may possibly also be an indication that you need to upgrade either your input HDMI cables your output HDMI cable or both.
> 
> --Bob



Are you connecting to a DVI projector vs HDMI. it may be as easy as changing YCbCr to RGB, but Bob will correct me.


----------



## neff2k

Can someone that is using the Oppo 970 post your settings? The more I read the manual the more confused I am getting.


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you connecting to a DVI projector vs HDMI. it may be as easy as changing YCbCr to RGB, but Bob will correct me.




Im using a m1 dvi cable with an hdmi adapter going into the d2


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Im using a m1 dvi cable with an hdmi adapter going into the d2



Since you are using a DVI input on your display, in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu, try changing the output Data Format to RGB instead of Auto.


DVI devices generally want RGB video format. Usually this is handled automatically during the handshake that establishes the connection, but if that is failing for some reason the connection might be set up as YCbCr by mistake. You then get the "shocking pink" screen because the"Y" output signal (gray scale luminance) is misinterpreted in the display as the Red color signal.


Explicitly selecting RGB output in the Anthem avoids any such mischance.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bluemark
> 
> If you go to Music configuration and set your front speakers to large and then scroll down to the Subwoofer tab it will give you the option to turn the sub off. Make sure you have the speakers to large or it will not give you the option to turn it off. For CD's I really like the anthem logic. Try it once and I think you will want to leave the sub on. Hope this helps. I am using 1.11c but I believe this works in 1.11b the same way because if I remember correctly it also worked in 1.10
> 
> Dick




If you will notice a few posts prior to your response, my mains are set to large and my sub is set to none. That is my issue. With that setting, I get sound through my sub unless I enter the music config page and then back out without changing a thing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> edit,
> 
> thanks to all for all the responses, I changed the setting in the A2 from bitstream to pcm in the digital out spdif and left digital out hdmi to auto and bingo 96khz
> 
> 
> thanks again,
> 
> 
> Bob



I'm not sure you followed what FilmMixer was saying.


The tracks themselves are 48KHz. If you are getting 96Khz output from the Toshiba then it is upsampling those tracks for you.


My understanding is that the audio upsampling in these Toshibas players is not all that good. If that's correct, then you don't want to set the Toshiba to do that.


If you send the unaltered 48KHz track to an Anthem D2, it will do upsampling ITSELF -- all the way to 192Khz -- and do it very well indeed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you will notice a few posts prior to your response, my mains are set to large and my sub is set to none. That is my issue. With that setting, I get sound through my sub unless I enter the music config page and then back out without changing a thing.



Does this happen EVERY time you switch to a Music configuration input source or only the FIRST time you do it since last powering on the D2? I.e., once it is fixed does it STAY fixed until you next power cycle the D2?


If the latter, this could simply be another example of the V1.1x software not iinitializing itself properly on power up. I.e., the same sort of problem that causes the Scale Out setting to change on power up for the input in effect at power up.


That is, perhaps this input is improperly initializing as Cinema configuration. Or perhaps Music configuration is improperly initializing as "SAME AS CINEMA".


To test this, temporarily change your Cinema configuration in some drastic way (e.g., no surround speakers). Then see if this Music input ALSO loses its surround speakers when first selected after a power up -- only to be fixed when you simply go in and out of the Setup screen again. If so, then that input is likely powering up incorrectly initialized to use the Cinema configuration instead of the proper, Music configuration.


Whether or not that's really what's going on, it certainly sounds like you've encountered a new bug that Anthem needs to know about.


You are getting good at finding these! (grin!)

--Bob


----------



## Bing

Can somebody help me out with this? I read that.....



> Quote:
> In order to upgrade the D2 so it can accept and process Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA 7.1 in a LPCM stream, will it require new hardware rather than just a software update?



Why does the D2 need upgrading if it can support up to 8 channels of 192KHz/24bit digital audio over HDMI 1.1?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bing* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can somebody help me out with this? I read that.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why does the D2 need upgrading if it can support up to 8 channels of 192KHz/24bit digital audio over HDMI 1.1?



The D2 is currently limited to 6 channels (5.1) of LPCM input via HDMI V1.1.


The HDMI V1.1 (and higher) spec enables more channels but doesn't require it.


I don't believe it is publicly known yet whether the D2 can be updated to accept 7.1 input that way via just a software upgrade, or whether a hardware change would also be required.


==================================


EDITED TO ADD: Don't confuse input with output. The D2 will upsample that 5.1 channel input to 192/24, and will then do surround processsing math on it, as necessary, to produce up to 7.1 OUTPUT, still at 192/24. And that's what gets converted to analog to go to the amps.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does this happen EVERY time you switch to a Music configuration input source or only the FIRST time you do it since last powering on the D2? I.e., once it is fixed does it STAY fixed until you next power cycle the D2?
> 
> 
> If the latter, this could simply be another example of the V1.1x software not iinitializing itself properly on power up. I.e., the same sort of problem that causes the Scale Out setting to change on power up for the input in effect at power up.
> 
> 
> That is, perhaps this input is improperly initializing as Cinema configuration. Or perhaps Music configuration is improperly initializing as "SAME AS CINEMA".
> 
> 
> To test this, temporarily change your Cinema configuration in some drastic way (e.g., no surround speakers). Then see if this Music input ALSO loses its surround speakers when first selected after a power up -- only to be fixed when you simply go in and out of the Setup screen again. If so, then that input is likely powering up incorrectly initialized to use the Cinema configuration instead of the proper, Music configuration.
> 
> 
> Whether or not that's really what's going on, it certainly sounds like you've encountered a new bug that Anthem needs to know about.
> 
> 
> You are getting good at finding these! (grin!)
> 
> --Bob



Bob: Thanks, I think. Not that I enjoy finding new bugs.


Anyway, I tried duplicating the issue again and go figure, now I can't, but it seemed to be something that occurred on startup. If I switched sources and went back to CD, it would be fine, from what I remember. I will keep an eye on this, because it has happened plenty and I'm sure it hasn't mysteriously disappeared for good.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob: Thanks, I think. Not that I enjoy finding new bugs.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I tried duplicating the issue again and go figure, now I can't, but it seemed to be something that occurred on startup. If I switched sources and went back to CD, it would be fine, from what I remember. I will keep an eye on this, because it has happened plenty and I'm sure it hasn't mysteriously disappeared for good.



Based on the known bug affecting the Scale Out setting, one thing that may apply here is that it only screws up if that Music configuration input happens to be the one you were using when you last powered down the D2 -- and thus is also the one initially selected when you power it back up again. Only the input selected upon power up ever gets its Scale Out setting mysteriously changed -- and even then it doesn't happen EVERY time you power up.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can someone that is using the Oppo 970 post your settings? The more I read the manual the more confused I am getting.



I'm assuming you are using HDMI...


Speaker setup page

Downmix: 5.1 ch

Front speaker: LARGE

Center speaker: LARGE

Rear speaker: LARGE

Subwoofer: ON


Audio setup page

SPDIF output: RAW

HDMI audio: Auto (SPDIF)


Color space: YCbCr 4:4:4


HDMI out is 480i.


All processing settings are set to OFF, 0 or minimum.


The output via HDMI is 480p from the factory . To change, you have to have the transport stopped (not paused!!!). Use the HDMI button on the remote to change to 480i - I think it steps through 720p and 1080i first. Also, if you want to play SACD or DVD-Audio, you will need to change the setting JUST for these discs to HDMI 720 or 1080, due to a short-sighted move by the HDMI organization. Make sure to switch back to 480i for movies.


(neff2k - did you mean the settings on the D2? If so, let me know.)


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 is currently limited to 6 channels (5.1) of LPCM input via HDMI V1.1.
> 
> 
> The HDMI V1.1 (and higher) spec enables more channels but doesn't require it.
> 
> 
> I don't believe it is publicly known yet whether the D2 can be updated to accept 7.1 input that way via just a software upgrade, or whether a hardware change would also be required.
> 
> 
> ==================================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: Don't confuse input with output. The D2 will upsample that 5.1 channel input to 192/24, and will then do surround processsing math on it, as necessary, to produce up to 7.1 OUTPUT, still at 192/24. And that's what gets converted to analog to go to the amps.
> 
> --Bob



Bob... I emailed Anthem about it a couple of weeks ago. It will require a hardware change, and they are taking a wait and see attitude about it with the dearth of 7.1 software, and as somebody involved in the soundtrack business, I don't expect that to change.


----------



## Bing




> Quote:
> The D2 is currently limited to 6 channels (5.1) of LPCM input via HDMI V1.1.



I see. So Anthem left themselves a little to room to upgrade in the D3. Thanks Bob.


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since you are using a DVI input on your display, in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu, try changing the output Data Format to RGB instead of Auto.
> 
> 
> DVI devices generally want RGB video format. Usually this is handled automatically during the handshake that establishes the connection, but if that is failing for some reason the connection might be set up as YCbCr by mistake. You then get the "shocking pink" screen because the"Y" output signal (gray scale luminance) is misinterpreted in the display as the Red color signal.
> 
> 
> Explicitly selecting RGB output in the Anthem avoids any such mischance.
> 
> --Bob




thank you, the rgb setting did the trick no more hadndhake,


you guys are great thank you!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob... I emailed Anthem about it a couple of weeks ago. It will require a hardware change, and they are taking a wait and see attitude about it with the dearth of 7.1 software, and as somebody involved in the soundtrack business, I don't expect that to change.



Thanks for the report. Not surprising, really.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> thank you, the rgb setting did the trick no more hadndhake,
> 
> 
> you guys are great thank you!



Good! Now do one other thing. Look in the manual for your display for a setting that adjusts that DVI input for use with either a computer or with a DVD or TV set top box. If you find such a setting, set it to the DVD or TV set top box setting instead of to the computer setting.


You might also just find a note that says this particular DVI input is not intended for use with computers. That's fine as well.


If you ended up changing this setting, then be sure to also re-adjust the Blacks/Whites/Colors/Sharpness settings on your display with the aid of the test charts generated by the Anthem.


Doing this will make your Black and White levels work much better.


--------------------------------------------------------------


Technically what you are doing is configuring that DVI input (as necessary) to expect "Studio RGB" instead of "Extended RGB". If you are interested in what that means, and why you need to do it, I wrote a detailed post on that, and on YCbCr, earlier in this thread.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm assuming you are using HDMI...
> 
> 
> (neff2k - did you mean the settings on the D2? If so, let me know.)



Nope those are perfect, thanks.


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good! Now do one other thing. Look in the manual for your display for a setting that adjusts that DVI input for use with either a computer or with a DVD or TV set top box. If you find such a setting, set it to the DVD or TV set top box setting instead of to the computer setting.
> 
> 
> You might also just find a note that says this particular DVI input is not intended for use with computers. That's fine as well.
> 
> 
> If you ended up changing this setting, then be sure to also re-adjust the Blacks/Whites/Colors/Sharpness settings on your display with the aid of the test charts generated by the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Doing this will make your Black and White levels work much better.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Technically what you are doing is configuring that DVI input (as necessary) to expect "Studio RGB" instead of "Extended RGB". If you are interested in what that means, and why you need to do it, I wrote a detailed post on that, and on YCbCr, earlier in this thread.
> 
> --Bob



thanks bob, I will check it out


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

Mind you, please, that I am just a novice...I would like to experiment with the different DSP/THX modes but I am unable to get the D2 to express anything but THX Cinema when I press THX or when I attempt to cycle using the "MODE" button. Does not seem to matter what source I am using. Anybody else with a similar problem?


----------



## rlockshin

I had the 1080i bug with Direct Tv h20 receiver and D2. 1.11c fixed my problem. It changes between resolutions wih no problem.

Thanks to Nick and Frank at Anthem


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

Also...having a major problem getting my Oppo 970HD to play an SACD via the D2--all I hear is a scrambled gibberish while the info button tells me that the D2 is receiving a 1080i, 5.1 signal at 88.2 khz. Tried turning HDMI Repeater on/off and tried a different HDMI input to no avail. Called Oppo--settings are correct on the player (latest firmware is installed) and they have no knowledge of any one having a problem. Is this somehow related to my DSP problem I referenced above? I have version 1.11 of the D2--does someone have a link to whatever the latest version is? Calling Anthem tomorrow as they are now closed for the day.


----------



## obie_fl

I just hooked up a 970HD this weekend and it is working fine with SACD. Are you using the beta firmware for the Oppo that does gapless? I'm still using 1.10 on the Anthem. The only issue I've had so far with the Oppo is the Beatles - Love DVD-A is not gapless. I was also surprised to find that the Oppo outputs multi-channel LPCM at 480i. Looks like my Pioneer Elite may go on the auction block if I ever get it back from the service center.


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

Yes, I am using the latest beta firmware from Oppo. Tried switching the output to 4801, 720p and still getting static and gibberish, scrambled sound out of the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mind you, please, that I am just a novice...I would like to experiment with the different DSP/THX modes but I am unable to get the D2 to express anything but THX Cinema when I press THX or when I attempt to cycle using the "MODE" button. Does not seem to matter what source I am using. Anybody else with a similar problem?



The audio modes you have available at any given moment vary according to:


1) The type of audio input that is being received (e.g., stereo vs. 5.1)


2) Whether THX post processing is turned on, AND


3) Whether you have configured any REAR Surround speakers.


I suspect the reason you are not able to get to some of the modes of interest to you are either that you don't have Rear Surround speakers in your setup or that you have THX turned on and the mode you want is not available with THX. For example Mono-Academy for listening to old movies can not be accessed if THX is also turned on.

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

YES!!! I have just ordered my AVM 50!! I hope that it is worth the money and wait! I have a general question....I have a tv (sony rplcdtv) that has a dvi input, my dvd player is also dvi input, the first model of up converts that came out a few years ago from samsung, will these be able to work with dvi-hdmi cables into and out of the avm 50? anyone in a simlar boat as me or should i just spend another 150 and get the oppo? Thanks for you help. Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had the 1080i bug with Direct Tv h20 receiver and D2. 1.11c fixed my problem. It changes between resolutions wih no problem.
> 
> Thanks to Nick and Frank at Anthem




Yay!


So what's the status on remaining bugs at this point?


We had:


1) Video problems related to 1080i (HDMI and Component)


2) Video problems related to power on (no signal)


3) Audio problems related to power on (no signal or wrong signal)


4) Scale Out setting changes unexpectedly at power on


5) Can't get to Simulcast mode easily because the button combo on the remote also switches to the next overlayed input.


6) Subwoofer is unexpectedly active in a Music configuration where it should be shut off.


7) HDMI video problems relating to switching input resolutions on the HDMI source changing the Anthem output to something out of range -- fixable only by power cycling the Anthem.


8) Conversion of 1080i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz not producing useful output signal timings.


9) EDID handshake with HTPCs improved but not yet perfect.


10) Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR HDMI input sometimes results in incorrect pillar boxing being added to HD channels if Anthem Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box is set. Fixed by changing Anthem inputs away and back to Comcast.


===================================

EDITED TO ADD:

11) Anthem scaler gets confused by S-video user interface from Velodyne DD series subwoofers and SMS-1 equalizer. The Anthem scaler sees it as no input so you get no output on the Main path HDMI output. S-video pass through to the Anthem's S-video output works fine.


===================================


I *THINK* that was the current pending list of items discussed in this thread. Are there any I missed?


And which of these do we think we can check off with V1.11c software?

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz

Does anyone have confirmation yet that the room calibration will only be available on the D2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> YES!!! I have just ordered my AVM 50!! I hope that it is worth the money and wait! I have a general question....I have a tv (sony rplcdtv) that has a dvi input, my dvd player is also dvi input, the first model of up converts that came out a few years ago from samsung, will these be able to work with dvi-hdmi cables into and out of the avm 50? anyone in a simlar boat as me or should i just spend another 150 and get the oppo? Thanks for you help. Rob



First, they will work *IF* your TV's DVI input is also HDCP-compliant (copy protection) -- presuming you've already been using that TV with DVI 720p or 1080i from your player, you are probably fine. You may need to explicitly specify RGB data format for the input or output with DVI devices. The one limitation is that with an RGB input device AND an RGB display you will lose the ability to adjust Color and Tint in the Anthem input settings for that source device.


However I suggest you get the Oppo. DVI doesn't support 480i (only 480p) so if you stay with your DVI player you will be forced to use the de-interlacing in the player which will be nowhere near as good as that in the Anthem.


Alternatively, hook up your player with Component video cables at 480i output.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz

Just curious to see how many people who own the AVM50 or D2 have this dvd player.


How good is the hdmi cable that comes with it?


It does pass dvd-audio and SACD over hdmi to the anthem right?


Fitzy


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just curious to see how many people who own the AVM50 or D2 have this dvd player.
> 
> 
> How good is the hdmi cable that comes with it?
> 
> 
> It does pass dvd-audio and SACD over hdmi to the anthem right?
> 
> 
> Fitzy



I DO NOT own any Oppo Product.


In this era of HD DVDs - either HD or Blu-Ray - I can't understand

why anyone would BUY an OPPO player - UNLESS they need SACD.


I'm not saying there is a single thing wrong with OPPO - but if you

have ANY brand of HD DVD or Blu-Ray Player - they all upconvert

SD DVDs to HD.


NONE of the HD Players do SCAD or even CD music. So if that is

what you want then OPPO does a great job in that area.


----------



## obie_fl

Not true the PS3 does SACD. No HD drive to my knowledge does DVD-As though. I got the Oppo to play my rather large collection of DVD-A's and SACDs and more importantly to me I still want to feed the Anthem Gennum 480i from standard DVDs.


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can't understand why anyone would BUY an OPPO player



I will most likely continue using the 970 even after I finally break down and get HD-DVD player. My reason: I would much rather let the Anthem process the standard DVD 480i than the HD player's upconverting. I will definitely compare them once I get one. If I don't see any difference then I will sell the Oppo. Heck allowing the Anthem to process the 480i from the Oppo is a huge improvement over my Denon 3910's setting of 480p/720p into the Anthem.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not true the PS3 does SACD. No HD drive to my knowledge does DVD-As though.



The Panasonic BR does DVD-A..


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will most likely continue using the 970.




For someone who already owns one - OF COURSE - Keep Using it.

I could not agree more.


My comments where targeting a buyer of new technology.

I was just recommending new HD players of either format

over a SD player. Unless of course he needed SACD.


----------



## neff2k

Aha... In that case agreed, I will be testing though to see if there is a noticeable difference between the two.


----------



## ensmarcum

Alright, the AVM 50 is back ordered for a few weeks, so I have a choice, should I pay another 1600 for the D2 or just wait it out? Is it worth the extra money? Would there be a difference in the quality of the the build or parts or anything besides a few sound features? Thank for your inputs!


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Panasonic BR does DVD-A..



Yep...I forgot all about the Pany. Don't most of the Blu-ray players play CDs with the exception of the Pioneer and Sony? I know the Pioneer and Sony have a 1st gen drive in them where as the Pany and PS3 have a newer drive that explains the difference. I believe all the Toshiba HD DVD players play CDs too. It is just the Sony and Pioneer standalone blu-ray players and maybe the Samsung that can't play CDs isn't it?


Unlike drhankz I prefer to feed the Gennum 480i standard DVD since I paid a lot for that feature I want to use it.







I guess I'm just set in my ways as my previous scalers were fed 480i via either HDMI or SDI. The other big issue with a HD only optical drive is the operability isn't the greatest compared to a plain ole DVD player. At least that is the case with my Toshiba A1 and PS3.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Alright, the AVM 50 is back ordered for a few weeks, so I have a choice, should I pay another 1600 for the D2 or just wait it out? Is it worth the extra money? Would there be a difference in the quality of the the build or parts or anything besides a few sound features? Thank for your inputs!



The D2 is backordered as well. Just placed my order last Friday.


----------



## ensmarcum

Really, I was told today that they are being shipped now and that I would be able to get one by monday. Of course I damn near live in canada.


----------



## 3no

I hope you're right and my dealer is wrong. Delivery this week would be a pleasant surprise.


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Alright, the AVM 50 is back ordered for a few weeks, so I have a choice, should I pay another 1600 for the D2 or just wait it out? Is it worth the extra money? Would there be a difference in the quality of the the build or parts or anything besides a few sound features? Thank for your inputs!



Definite flashbacks! I started looking at the AVM-30, ended up with the 50. Was tempted to go the rest of the way to the D-2 but could not justify the extra cost. If you have the budget, I would say go the whole way. If it pushes the budget too far or further than you want, you will be very happy with the AVM-50. No regrets here. And don't be surprised if your dealer calls next week and tells you its in! I was expecting a end of January delivery when I ordered it the first part of December. Call on Friday before Christmas, "It's here!".


Best of luck with your decision. See if your dealer could get both in. I know if my dealer would have ordered both it would have been a much harder decision. Might have had to use the dreaded CC for that one.


----------



## ensmarcum

neff2k, that is probably the best bit of advice I have received from this forum yet. Still doesnt make the choice any easier. I think tomorrow I will call my dealer and ask if they can get me the d2 by saturday and if they can then i think I will make the plunge that way I wont be wanting the d2 later. I am that way and I wish i wasnt cause it costs money. But at least it isnt putting me in the poor house. Thanks for letting me bend your ear. Robert


----------



## rlockshin

I might have been premature with my 1080i issue on D2 via component. If I am watching a 1080i channel and turn off Anthem,picture does not work when Anthem is turned back on. I can change to a different resolution channel and switch back or turn off Direct Tv H20 and that brings it back.

Strange. I will contact Nick in the a.m.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I DO NOT own any Oppo Product.
> 
> 
> In this era of HD DVDs - either HD or Blu-Ray - I can't understand
> 
> why anyone would BUY an OPPO player - UNLESS they need SACD.
> 
> 
> I'm not saying there is a single thing wrong with OPPO - but if you
> 
> have ANY brand of HD DVD or Blu-Ray Player - they all upconvert
> 
> SD DVDs to HD.
> 
> 
> NONE of the HD Players do SCAD or even CD music. So if that is
> 
> what you want then OPPO does a great job in that area.



As with others, I would rather let the Gennum chip deinterlace and upconvert than the (most likely inferior) chip inside the HD player.


Clean 480i over HDMI, plus reasonable playback of CD-Audio, DVD-A and SACD, for just under $150. It's a great stopgap solution until the 3rd generation HD players show up. At that point, I'll give it away.


I would not recommend it, though, to someone who:


1. Did not have a D2 (Oppo's upconverting is nothing special)

2. Was not using HDMI

3. Did not care about getting the last drop of quality from their SD DVDs.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just curious to see how many people who own the AVM50 or D2 have this dvd player.
> 
> 
> How good is the hdmi cable that comes with it?
> 
> 
> It does pass dvd-audio and SACD over hdmi to the anthem right?
> 
> 
> Fitzy



Surprisingly, the cable seems to be decent.


Someone on an Oppo thread was comparing it to either a Monoprice or a Blue Jeans cable, and said it appeared to be identical.


I've seen no complaints on that thread so far...


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I DO NOT own any Oppo Product.
> 
> 
> In this era of HD DVDs - either HD or Blu-Ray - I can't understand
> 
> why anyone would BUY an OPPO player - UNLESS they need SACD.
> 
> 
> I'm not saying there is a single thing wrong with OPPO - but if you
> 
> have ANY brand of HD DVD or Blu-Ray Player - they all upconvert
> 
> SD DVDs to HD.
> 
> 
> NONE of the HD Players do SCAD or even CD music. So if that is
> 
> what you want then OPPO does a great job in that area.




The OPPO player would be used to play one of my 1000 sd-dvd's I currently own. I am using a sony DVP-NS999ES dvd player at the moment. I assumed that the D2 would do a better job of upconverting SD DVDs to HD than the OPPO.


I will buy an hd-dvd player when I upgrade to a 1080p projector but will wait until there is more content available on hd-dvd.(6 months maybe)


Thanks everyone for the input so far.


Fitzy


----------



## muad'dib

Here is the strange thing..


I love the oppo at 480i, and letting the D2 do the video work.. But, one day tried for fun, the oppo at 1080i (usings it's scaler). To my surprise, the picture was sharper!







Had a little more jaggies, but sharper (on my SXRD A2000)..


Has anybody else seen this with the D2??


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I added the problem of getting the Velodyne subwoofer's S-video user interface signal to output through the Anthem scaler to the list of pending bugs discussed in this thread in my post on Page 127.

--Bob


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I added the problem of getting the Velodyne subwoofer's S-video user interface signal to output through the Anthem scaler to the list of pending bugs discussed in this thread in my post on Page 127.
> 
> --Bob



I thought I was doing something wrong,


Jeremy


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just curious to see how many people who own the AVM50 or D2 have this dvd player.
> 
> 
> How good is the hdmi cable that comes with it?
> 
> 
> It does pass dvd-audio and SACD over hdmi to the anthem right?
> 
> 
> Fitzy



I have the Oppo and although it looks like a $150 DVD player, it outperforms most at many times the price.


If you have been following these threads, the Anthem pieces were hit with an issue when trying to input 1080i into them. I think for the most part that this has been corrected. The reason I'm telling you this is when I was hit with this issue, before I knew what was causing it, I borrowed a high end Ecosse hdmi cable to see if the 1080i issue was due to the cable. For comparison, I tried both the Oppo's cable and the Ecosse cable and saw absolutely no difference.


One very nice feature of the Oppo is that you can output it's native 480i resolution out to the Anthem using the hdmi cable. This allows the Anthem to do the processing. I'm not aware of any other DVD players that does this, although I'm sure there must be some.


It will play both SACD and DVD-A, again over hdmi. You just have to remember to switch it to 1080i output before doing so.


As you probably assume by now, I do recommend it without a doubt. Three other people I know have also purchased it and even without the Anthem doing the processing, they are amazed at the picture quality they are now getting. One of them has the ealier version which is probably better if you are allowing it to do the processing, but when linked with the Anthem, the 970 is the way to go.


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the Oppo and although it looks like a $150 DVD player, it outperforms most at many times the price.
> 
> 
> If you have been following these threads, the Anthem pieces were hit with an issue when trying to input 1080i into them. I think for the most part that this has been corrected. The reason I'm telling you this is when I was hit with this issue, before I knew what was causing it, I borrowed a high end Ecosse hdmi cable to see if the 1080i issue was due to the cable. For comparison, I tried both the Oppo's cable and the Ecosse cable and saw absolutely no difference.
> 
> 
> One very nice feature of the Oppo is that you can output it's native 480i resolution out to the Anthem using the hdmi cable. This allows the Anthem to do the processing. I'm not aware of any other DVD players that does this, although I'm sure there must be some.
> 
> 
> It will play both SACD and DVD-A, again over hdmi. You just have to remember to switch it to 1080i output before doing so.
> 
> 
> As you probably assume by now, I do recommend it without a doubt. Three other people I know have also purchased it and even without the Anthem doing the processing, they are amazed at the picture quality they are now getting. One of them has the ealier version which is probably better if you are allowing it to do the processing, but when linked with the Anthem, the 970 is the way to go.



mine arrives saturday


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I might have been premature with my 1080i issue on D2 via component. If I am watching a 1080i channel and turn off Anthem,picture does not work when Anthem is turned back on. I can change to a different resolution channel and switch back or turn off Direct Tv H20 and that brings it back.
> 
> Strange. I will contact Nick in the a.m.




I noticed the same thing too. If I fire the Anthem up on a HD channel, I need to switch to an SD channel, then back for it to show. I'm currently running 1.11c. This is using a Mediacom Motorola 6412 cable box on component video.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> mine arrives saturday



Your D2, AVM50 or Oppo? This thread seems to cover it all...


I'm interested as I have a D2 on order but was told "2-3 weeks backorder" last Friday


----------



## mlbrand

What's the latest knowledge (or rumor







) of when Anthem will offer an upgrade to HDMI 1.3 for the D2/AVM50?


It looks like by this fall there will be a fair number of displays and sources that use HDMI 1.3. I would hope that our Anthem processors will be ready for them!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What's the latest knowledge (or rumor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) of when Anthem will offer an upgrade to HDMI 1.3 for the D2/AVM50?
> 
> 
> It looks like by this fall there will be a fair number of displays and sources that use HDMI 1.3. I would hope that our Anthem processors will be ready for them!



Major hardware change, hopefully in the AVM-60 & D3


----------



## DreamCatcher

Hopefully Anthem is concentrating on more important issues like....

a kick butt ROOM EQ system


dc


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What's the latest knowledge (or rumor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) of when Anthem will offer an upgrade to HDMI 1.3 for the D2/AVM50?
> 
> 
> It looks like by this fall there will be a fair number of displays and sources that use HDMI 1.3. I would hope that our Anthem processors will be ready for them!


*And what will you SEE or HEAR that will be different?*


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> *And what will you SEE or HEAR that will be different?*


 HDMI 1.3 FAQ's


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> HDMI 1.3 FAQ's



I don't need to read specifications.


I'm an EE.


I ASKED what will you SEE and HEAR yourself?


So far EXTENSIVE testing by SONY and others with

HUMANS have not found one person yet - who can

see and hear anything different when using equipment

with HDMI v1.3!


----------



## Shaktijess

I'm using a Toshiba HD XA2 with my week old Pioneer Elite 1140 plasma, my first plasma /HD experience. The problem with HD DVDs is that almost all of them are in 2.33 :1 aspect. Therefore they have black bars top and bottom, a no no for plasma. When I use the 1140 zoom Tom Cruise's face gets stretched vertically; I hate the stretch! Are any of you using any video processors or scalers to do the aspect ratio instead of the TV, for a more natural stretch? Any recommendations?


I'm considering looking into an Anthem AVM 50, but wow, a lot of bucks. 4:3 DVDs look excellent in zoom on my setup, even 2.33:1 standard DVDs look ALMOST okay, but HD DVDs are stretched too distorted for my tastes. Aside from that they look extraordinary in full mode. Also I find the aspect control on my Dish 622 stb does a better, more natural zoom on satellite material than the Pioneer? What's up with that??? Would the Anthem allow me to do a natural customised stretch so that it filled the screen but didn't look stretched? Also, how big if any an improvement would it make in SD viewing form my Dish 622? Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

mlbrand,

If you haven't already, check out the "Why you don't need HDMI V1.3" sticky thread at the top of this forum.


Please keep in mind that the HDMI V1.3 FAQs you linked to are marketing spin.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> mlbrand,
> 
> If you haven't already, check out the "Why you don't need HDMI V1.3" sticky thread at the top of this forum.
> 
> 
> Please keep in mind that the HDMI V1.3 FAQs you linked to are marketing spin.
> 
> --Bob



You Mean this Thread - Bob







?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9506527


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shaktijess* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm using a Toshiba HD XA2 with my week old Pioneer Elite 1140 plasma, my first plasma /HD experience. The problem with HD DVDs is that almost all of them are in 2.33 :1 aspect. Therefore they have black bars top and bottom, a no no for plasma. When I use the 1140 zoom Tom Cruise's face gets stretched vertically; I hate the stretch! Are any of you using any video processors or scalers to do the aspect ratio instead of the TV, for a more natural stretch? Any recommendations?
> 
> 
> I'm considering looking into an Anthem AVM 50, but wow, a lot of bucks. 4:3 DVDs look excellent in zoom on my setup, even 2.33:1 standard DVDs look ALMOST okay, but HD DVDs are stretched too distorted for my tastes. Aside from that they look extraordinary in full mode. Also I find the aspect control on my Dish 622 stb does a better, more natural zoom on satellite material than the Pioneer? What's up with that??? Would the Anthem allow me to do a natural customised stretch so that it filled the screen but didn't look stretched? Also, how big if any an improvement would it make in SD viewing form my Dish 622? Thanks.



First, don't get too hung up with having to stretch EVERYTHING to fill the screen in your new plasma. Current plasma designs -- and that certainly includes your new Pioneer Elite -- are much less subject to permanent burn in problems. And the lesser form of that, "image retention", vanishes very quickly. Burn in happens when the used and unused phosphers burn (and thus dim) at different rates. Modern phosphers don't dim anywhere near as fast. There's even good reason to believe the usual advice for new plasmas -- fill the screen for the first 100 hours of watching -- is not needed any more. In any event, if you are using the "D-Nice" break in settings during that first 100 hours (see the Pioneer threads in the display forum) you are good to go.


And that's really the key: Much more important than avoiding letter or pillar box bars is that you get your Contrast and Brightness set properly from the start -- i.e., that you do NOT use the factory default settings. In the Pioneers you particularly want to avoid the "Dynamic" picture mode, which is what Pioneer calls their "torch mode" settings intended only for store display purposes.


If you want to be doubly sure, stretch your SDTV channels viewed during that first 100 hours. But so long as you are using proper Contrast and Brightness settings for watching movies, don't worry about those letter box bars when watching movies. After the first 100 hours you needn't even really worry about stretching your SDTV channels -- again with proper Contrast and Brightness settings. And even pausing the screen for a couple minutes is not an issue.


Again, modern plasmas are MUCH better at avoiding problems here than the earlier ones.


Distorting a "wider than wide screen" movie to fill your "wide screen" display will not really be pleasant no matter how you do it. There are only 3 ways to approach this:


1) Zoom in on the image until it fills the screen top to bottom. This means that some of the image is lost off either side. What remains on screen is not distorted -- circles still look like circles.


2) Stretch the image uniformly in the vertical direction only. No image is lost off the sides but circles now look like tall ovals.


3) Stretch the image NON-uniformly in the vertical direction only. This is like (2) -- no image lost, but circles look like tall ovals -- except that more stretch is applied near the top and bottom and less in the center so that the center of the image is less distorted. However the top and bottom are more distorted which can be particularly annoying during vertical pans. A vertical pan makes the image look like it is kind of on a funhouse mirror as the stretch of objects varies as they move up or down the screen.


My recommendation is that you calibrate the Contrast and Brightness properly on your plasma, watch casual content (like SDTV programs) stretched horizontally by method (2) above for roughly the first 100 hours, and enjoy your movies WITHOUT stretching them -- even during that first 100 hours.


Follow watching movies displayed with letter box bars with a similar amount of time watching 16:9 HDTV, or movies that fill the screen, or SDTV stretched to fill the screen. Again, this is only something you need watch out for during those first 100 hours.

--Bob


----------



## Shaktijess




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> First, don't get too hung up with having to stretch EVERYTHING to fill the screen in your new plasma. Current plasma designs -- and that certainly includes your new Pioneer Elite -- are much less subject to permanent burn in problems. And the lesser form of that, "image retention", vanishes very quickly. Burn in happens when the used and unused phosphers burn (and thus dim) at different rates. Modern phosphers don't dim anywhere near as fast. There's even good reason to believe the usual advice for new plasmas -- fill the screen for the first 100 hours of watching -- is not needed any more. In any event, if you are using the "D-Nice" break in settings during that first 100 hours (see the Pioneer threads in the display forum) you are good to go.
> 
> 
> And that's really the key: Much more important than avoiding letter or pillar box bars is that you get your Contrast and Brightness set properly from the start -- i.e., that you do NOT use the factory default settings. In the Pioneers you particularly want to avoid the "Dynamic" picture mode, which is what Pioneer calls their "torch mode" settings intended only for store display purposes.
> 
> 
> If you want to be doubly sure, stretch your SDTV channels viewed during that first 100 hours. But so long as you are using proper Contrast and Brightness settings for watching movies, don't worry about those letter box bars when watching movies. After the first 100 hours you needn't even really worry about stretching your SDTV channels -- again with proper Contrast and Brightness settings. And even pausing the screen for a couple minutes is not an issue.
> 
> 
> Again, modern plasmas are MUCH better at avoiding problems here than the earlier ones.
> 
> 
> Distorting a "wider than wide screen" movie to fill your "wide screen" display will not really be pleasant no matter how you do it. There are only 3 ways to approach this:
> 
> 
> 1) Zoom in on the image until it fills the screen top to bottom. This means that some of the image is lost off either side. What remains on screen is not distorted -- circles still look like circles.
> 
> 
> 2) Stretch the image uniformly in the vertical direction only. No image is lost off the sides but circles now look like tall ovals.
> 
> 
> 3) Stretch the image NON-uniformly in the vertical direction only. This is like (2) -- no image lost, but circles look like tall ovals -- except that more stretch is applied near the top and bottom and less in the center so that the center of the image is less distorted. However the top and bottom are more distorted which can be particularly annoying during vertical pans. A vertical pan makes the image look like it is kind of on a funhouse mirror as the stretch of objects varies as they move up or down the screen.
> 
> 
> My recommendation is that you calibrate the Contrast and Brightness properly on your plasma, watch casual content (like SDTV programs) stretched horizontally by method (2) above for roughly the first 100 hours, and enjoy your movies WITHOUT stretching them -- even during that first 100 hours.
> 
> 
> Follow watching movies displayed with letter box bars with a similar amount of time watching 16:9 HDTV, or movies that fill the screen, or SDTV stretched to fill the screen. Again, this is only something you need watch out for during those first 100 hours.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks so much for your help, Bob. IR is my primary concern. But I do also like to fill the whole scrren, and I hate stretch modes. Will the Anthem or some other processor enable me to customize the zoom so that it fills the screen without distorted stretches. The 1140 does a good job, distortion wise, on HD TV and on 4:3 materail but HD DVDs

in 2:33 mode have a vertical distortion. Apparantly it zooms equally on 4:3 but not on 2:33.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shaktijess* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for your help, Bob. IR is my primary concern. But I do also like to fill the whole scrren, and I hate stretch modes. Will the Anthem or some other processor enable me to customize the zoom so that it fills the screen without distorted stretches. The 1140 does a good job, distortion wise, on HD TV and on 4:3 materail but HD DVDs
> 
> in 2:33 mode have a vertical distortion. Apparantly it zooms equally on 4:3 but not on 2:33.



Like I said above, there is no free lunch here. If you "stretch" the image in only one direction (so as not to lose stuff off the edges in the other direction) you will end up with circles that look like ovals in that direction.


If you "zoom" into the image to increase it's size without distortion then you have to lose something off one pair of edges or the other. There's no place to put those portions of the image without distorting the image.


Stretching 4:3 content left and right to fill a 16:9 screen is less noticeable since the screen is already wider that way, the percentage stretch is not that big, and the eye gets fooled if there aren't prominant circles in the image.


Stretching "wider than wide screen" cinematic content to fill the 16:9 screen top to bottom produces more noticeable distortion. And your only way out of that is to allow some of the image to be lost off either side.


But to answer your question, the Anthem allows you to enter Custom settings to crop the image prior to scaling as you choose. That determines how much of the input image is lost off the top/bottom or the left/right. By default nothing is lost. Then the Anthem will scale that to the pixel count you specify in your video output resolution. In the process, the Anthem will either stretch the cropped input uniformly to fill the screen (Scale Out = Anamorphic), non-uniformly (Scale Out = Panoramic), or retaining the shape of your crop and adding either letter boxes or pillar boxes to pad out the short direction to fill the output resolution.


To use this with "wider than wide screen" cinematic content you will need to experiment with how much you prefer to lose left and right compared to how much distortion you introduce due to the stretching up and down.


If you watch a lot of 2.35:1 cinema from some input, you can put your prefered set of Custom settings for that in the Video Source Adjust / Crop Input / Custom entry for that input. Then you can use the remote to pretty easily switch between 16:9 crop, 4:3 crop, or your Custom crop. For HDMI sources, there is also an HDMI Auto setting that will switch automatically between 16:9 and 4:3 cropping (but not Custom). HDMI Auto is the factory default.


Of course not all "wider than wide screen" cinematic content is 2.35:1. You will need to enter new Custom numbers manually each time you switch image shapes you want to handle this way.


=====================================


EDITED TO ADD: If you do a Custom setting for Crop Input that is less than the full input resolution in either directiion, then you can ALSO adjust the centering of the crop in the short direction (both of them if both are short).


There's not much point in doing this horizontally unless your source is sending screwy video to the Anthem.


But adjusting the vertical positioning on an input that you have cropped top and bottom can be very useful if your source puts subtitles below the image. At the expense of losing some of the real image on the top, you can shift the crop down to keep the subtitles visible without adding additional distortion to the image. Increasing the size of the vertical crop to keep the subtitles visible would do the same thing, but then you'd ALSO have at least a letter box bar on top equal to the size of the space on bottom you've opened up to see the subtitles (even if you are "stretching" the result, since this letter box bar is being retained from the input image, so it is also shown in the "stretched" result).


And of course you can balance this by opening up the crop a little AND shifting it down a little.


The point is, you've got pretty much TOTAL flexibility, at the cost of having to figure out how you best prefer to do it for any given movie, and then writing down those settings someplace for the next time you watch that movie. The settings you need to note are the four integers making up your preferred Crop Input / Custom setting and also the preferred Scale Out setting to use with them (Anamorphic, Letter/Pillar Box, or Panoramic).


All of these settings can be seen and changed "live" while you are watching the movie (via the Video Source Adjust menu under the "7" key on the remote), so it is easy to see the result "on the fly" and refine things as you prefer.


You will likely discover that there is just one set of settings you prefer for each wideness of "wider than wide screen" cinemetic content -- plus perhaps one variant if the movie displays subtitles below the image. I.e., your preferred settings for ALL 2.35:1, non subtitled movies will likely be the same.


IMPORTANT NOTE: The additional Scale Out setting -- "ZOOM" -- should *NOT* be used for actual viewing. It is intended to be used temporarily when setting things up or when checking a particular portion of an image. Using it for normal viewing will result in dramatically worsened imaging as the math that implements it is done AFTER the scaler does its job.

--Bob


----------



## buyrightlow

I've got the Toshiba hd2A and it allows you to set the resolution to 480i, thereby allowing the anthem to take over from there and bypass the internal scaling. Also, it plays cd's just fine. So I really don't know why anyone would want another dvd player than that for video, and as to audio I'm not sure what the 2A does with sacd. BTW, the hd and sd picture on the Toshiba is truly remarkable!


I'm hooking my laptop up today to the AVM50 via s video and 2 channel stereo via line out, using a stereo y connector for right and left channel. I'm thinking about getting the Sound Blaster Audigy 2zs that will allow full 5.1 channel, not "virtual" sound, to be played from downloaded video's through the Anthem. Should be great. I'm curious to see how the anthem upscales the video signal from the laptop, which it will recognize it as a video source. If it does a good job I'll need to consider downloading video and bypassing the dvd player. Stay tuned.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the Oppo and although it looks like a $150 DVD player, it outperforms most at many times the price.
> 
> 
> If you have been following these threads, the Anthem pieces were hit with an issue when trying to input 1080i into them. I think for the most part that this has been corrected. The reason I'm telling you this is when I was hit with this issue, before I knew what was causing it, I borrowed a high end Ecosse hdmi cable to see if the 1080i issue was due to the cable. For comparison, I tried both the Oppo's cable and the Ecosse cable and saw absolutely no difference.
> 
> 
> One very nice feature of the Oppo is that you can output it's native 480i resolution out to the Anthem using the hdmi cable. This allows the Anthem to do the processing. I'm not aware of any other DVD players that does this, although I'm sure there must be some.
> 
> 
> It will play both SACD and DVD-A, again over hdmi. You just have to remember to switch it to 1080i output before doing so.
> 
> 
> As you probably assume by now, I do recommend it without a doubt. Three other people I know have also purchased it and even without the Anthem doing the processing, they are amazed at the picture quality they are now getting. One of them has the ealier version which is probably better if you are allowing it to do the processing, but when linked with the Anthem, the 970 is the way to go.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I DO NOT own any Oppo Product.
> 
> 
> In this era of HD DVDs - either HD or Blu-Ray - I can't understand
> 
> why anyone would BUY an OPPO player - UNLESS they need SACD.
> 
> 
> I'm not saying there is a single thing wrong with OPPO - but if you
> 
> have ANY brand of HD DVD or Blu-Ray Player - they all upconvert
> 
> SD DVDs to HD.
> 
> 
> NONE of the HD Players do SCAD or even CD music. So if that is
> 
> what you want then OPPO does a great job in that area.



I added the Pioneer BR BDP-HD1 player recently to my setup and feel it is as good or better transport for 480i than my Oppo 970HD. Meanwhile, I am still keeping the Oppo for SACD and DVD-A playback. I would like to get rid of the Oppo since my rack is full and I have a XA2 coming in two weeks. But, until we get SACD and DVDA playback from our HD player we are a bit stuck with the Oppo.


----------



## Shaktijess




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Like I said above, there is no free lunch here. If you "stretch" the image in only one direction (so as not to lose stuff off the edges in the other direction) you will end up with circles that look like ovals in that direction.
> 
> 
> If you "zoom" into the image to increase it's size without distortion then you have to lose something off one pair of edges or the other. There's no place to put those portions of the image without distorting the image.
> 
> 
> Stretching 4:3 content left and right to fill a 16:9 screen is less noticeable since the screen is already wider that way, the percentage stretch is not that big, and the eye gets fooled if there aren't prominant circles in the image.
> 
> 
> Stretching "wider than wide screen" cinematic content to fill the 16:9 screen top to bottom produces more noticeable distortion. And your only way out of that is to allow some of the image to be lost off either side.
> 
> 
> But to answer your question, the Anthem allows you to enter Custom settings to crop the image prior to scaling as you choose. That determines how much of the input image is lost off the top/bottom or the left/right. By default nothing is lost. Then the Anthem will scale that to the pixel count you specify in your video output resolution. In the process, the Anthem will either stretch the cropped input uniformly to fill the screen (Scale Out = Anamorphic), non-uniformly (Scale Out = Panoramic), or retaining the shape of your crop and adding either letter boxes or pillar boxes to pad out the short direction to fill the output resolution.
> 
> 
> To use this with "wider than wide screen" cinematic content you will need to experiment with how much you prefer to lose left and right compared to how much distortion you introduce due to the stretching up and down.
> 
> 
> If you watch a lot of 2.35:1 cinema from some input, you can put your prefered set of Custom settings for that in the Video Source Adjust / Crop Input / Custom entry for that input. Then you can use the remote to pretty easily switch between 16:9 crop, 4:3 crop, or your Custom crop. For HDMI sources, there is also an HDMI Auto setting that will switch automatically between 16:9 and 4:3 cropping (but not Custom). HDMI Auto is the factory default.
> 
> 
> Of course not all "wider than wide screen" cinematic content is 2.35:1. You will need to enter new Custom numbers manually each time you switch image shapes you want to handle this way.
> 
> 
> =====================================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: If you do a Custom setting for Crop Input that is less than the full input resolution in either directiion, then you can ALSO adjust the centering of the crop in the short direction (both of them if both are short).
> 
> 
> There's not much point in doing this horizontally unless your source is sending screwy video to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> But adjusting the vertical positioning on an input that you have cropped top and bottom can be very useful if your source puts subtitles below the image. At the expense of losing some of the real image on the top, you can shift the crop down to keep the subtitles visible without adding additional distortion to the image. Increasing the size of the vertical crop to keep the subtitles visible would do the same thing, but then you'd ALSO have at least a letter box bar on top equal to the size of the space on bottom you've opened up to see the subtitles (even if you are "stretching" the result, since this letter box bar is being retained from the input image, so it is also shown in the "stretched" result).
> 
> 
> And of course you can balance this by opening up the crop a little AND shifting it down a little.
> 
> 
> The point is, you've got pretty much TOTAL flexibility, at the cost of having to figure out how you best prefer to do it for any given movie, and then writing down those settings someplace for the next time you watch that movie. The settings you need to note are the four integers making up your preferred Crop Input / Custom setting and also the preferred Scale Out setting to use with them (Anamorphic, Letter/Pillar Box, or Panoramic).
> 
> 
> All of these settings can be seen and changed "live" while you are watching the movie (via the Video Source Adjust menu under the "7" key on the remote), so it is easy to see the result "on the fly" and refine things as you prefer.
> 
> 
> You will likely discover that there is just one set of settings you prefer for each wideness of "wider than wide screen" cinemetic content -- plus perhaps one variant if the movie displays subtitles below the image. I.e., your preferred settings for ALL 2.35:1, non subtitled movies will likely be the same.
> 
> 
> IMPORTANT NOTE: The additional Scale Out setting -- "ZOOM" -- should *NOT* be used for actual viewing. It is intended to be used temporarily when setting things up or when checking a particular portion of an image. Using it for normal viewing will result in dramatically worsened imaging as the math that implements it is done AFTER the scaler does its job.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks again, Bob- this gives me a lot more info. So as I understand it, if I'm willing to let go of the corners of the image, the Anthem will allow me to maintain normal body ratios/ no distortion and allow me to choos myself what I'll give up, as opposed to a preprogrammed choice. correct?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shaktijess* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks again, Bob- this gives me a lot more info. So as I understand it, if I'm willing to let go of the corners of the image, the Anthem will allow me to maintain normal body ratios/ no distortion and allow me to choos myself what I'll give up, as opposed to a preprogrammed choice. correct?



Yes. Although usually it is the left/right sides rather than the corners.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> mlbrand,
> 
> If you haven't already, check out the "Why you don't need HDMI V1.3" sticky thread at the top of this forum.
> 
> 
> Please keep in mind that the HDMI V1.3 FAQs you linked to are marketing spin.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks for pointing me to that sticky, I was aware of the ongoing debate on HDMI 1.3, and that thread and your posts explain it very well.


I do not intend to get into a debate here on the pro's and con's of HDMI 1.3. Arguments of that type are not my cup of tea, and your thread and others have covered it well. I just wanted to know if anyone had heard when Anthem might implement this upgrade.


Whether we like or need HDMI 1.3 or not, the course appears to be set, and at some point in the future Anthem customers will expect to see it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for pointing me to that sticky, I was aware of the ongoing debate on HDMI 1.3, and that thread and your posts explain it very well.
> 
> 
> I do not intend to get into a debate here on the pro's and con's of HDMI 1.3. Arguments of that type are not my cup of tea, and your thread and others have covered it well. I just wanted to know if anyone had heard when Anthem might implement this upgrade.
> 
> 
> Whether we like or need HDMI 1.3 or not, the course appears to be set, and at some point in the future Anthem customers will expect to see it.



Sure at some point it will be the natural way to go.


I haven't heard of any announcements from Anthem, but my expectations would be sometime around the middle of 2008.


HDMI V1.3 chips are in short supply, and what is actually important to implement as regards the optional features of HDMI V1.3 is not yet clear.


For example, is decoding relevant, or will "advanced content" discs dominate the market.


Also, what's the right video engine for that next generation product?


These questions are important if you have a reputation for "doing it right" to maintain.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht

1.3 will help provide additional bandwidth for audio, so in the near term it does nothing for color depth given all links of the chain, including content production and delivery through end device require it.


I'm hoping we get 7.1 PCM sooner than 1.3, but 1.3 won't hurt, it's just a couple years from meeting potential and all our new 4K res projectors with 4x p24 refresh.


----------



## ensmarcum

I just setup my D2 and I have a problem with HDMI. I have a Sony 50's rptv and it has a dvi connection, no hdmi. so i bought an adapter to make my dvi cable hdmi, but all i can get is a picture with a pink color over what is showing. it works fine with component, can anyone shed some light on this problem for me? I also get a skip in the image every now and again. Not the dvd, it is clean and the dvd player has never done that before. I have the dvd player running to the d2 via component and then to the tv via component. anyone else have this skipping problem? Thanks


----------



## drlopezmdfacc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just setup my D2 and I have a problem with HDMI. I have a Sony 50's rptv and it has a dvi connection, no hdmi. so i bought an adapter to make my dvi cable hdmi, but all i can get is a picture with a pink color over what is showing. it works fine with component, can anyone shed some light on this problem for me? I also get a skip in the image every now and again. Not the dvd, it is clean and the dvd player has never done that before. I have the dvd player running to the d2 via component and then to the tv via component. anyone else have this skipping problem? Thanks



I had the same problem. Bob has addressed it in detail earlier in this thread--you probably need to change your video output format to "RGB".


----------



## ensmarcum

Alright I just changed it to extended rgb and it works great. Thanks! how can you get the display to come up without losing the picture? You know like LEV does on his projector?


----------



## ensmarcum

Now when I set it to 1980/1080i X 60 I am getting some pixelizing. Should I set it to rgb and leave it be?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now when I set it to 1980/1080i X 60 I am getting some pixelizing. Should I set it to rgb and leave it be?



RGB is almost certainly what you want for your TV's DVI input instead of Extended RGB.


In addition look for any setting in your TV that configures its DVI input for DVD or set top box as opposed to computer or PC, and set it to the DVD or set top box setting if you find one.


After setting Anthem output to RGB, re-adjust the basic Blacks/Whites/Colors/Sharpness settings in your display based on the test patterns the Anthem will generate for you.


Then use the Anthem input settings, as necessary to fine tune input levels for each source device as necessary.

--Bob


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can the AVM50 be uses for Constant Height Application? I have a Mitsu hc5000 and the AVM50. Can this combo work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, well I'm not really sure I have a handle on this yet, but I *THINK* what you want to do here can be handled with the "Crop Input" function in the Anthem's Video Source Adjust menu.
> 
> 
> This function has two built-in styles of cropping, but also provides for the user to enter a completely custom cropping. I believe if you simply crop the content to 2.35:1 the scaler will do the rest. However you may also need to manually set the horizontal and vertical sizing using the "No Scale" function of the "Scale Output" function in that same menu.
Click to expand...


Hi Bob,


I've just ordered a D2 and really want to use it for constant height vertical stretching as several others have described. It sounds like your proposed solution above will work, although I never saw anybody post after you did to confirm it.


One question: Is it possible to store this custom scaling mode as a preset so one can switch back and forth with the touch of a button? I'll have an anamorphic lens that is only used for 2.35:1 aspect ratio programming, and would like to program a macro that both moves the lens into place (on a IR-controlled power sled) as well as switches the D2 into "constant height" mode.


Thanks.


-Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I've just ordered a D2 and really want to use it for constant height vertical stretching as several others have described. It sounds like your proposed solution above will work, although I never saw anybody post after you did to confirm it.
> 
> 
> One question: Is it possible to store this custom scaling mode as a preset so one can switch back and forth with the touch of a button? I'll have an anamorphic lens that is only used for 2.35:1 aspect ratio programming, and would like to program a macro that both moves the lens into place (on a IR-controlled power sled) as well as switches the D2 into "constant height" mode.
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> -Dave



You can store one set of Custom cropping info for each overlayed input -- via the Video Source Adjust menu while that input is currently selected -- and if you'd like you can make Custom cropping be the default Crop Input setting for a given overlayed input (i.e., DVD2, etc.). Then you can program your remote to switch to that overlayed input when needed.


You can do the same sort of thing with the Scale Out setting for that same overlayed input, as necessary.


[NOTE: There is currently a bug in the V1.1x software that causes the Scale Out selection to be changed unexpectedly at power up, something like 75% of the time, for the input that was last selected prior to power down (and is thus the input first selected at power up). Anthem is aware of this one.]


If you want to program the remote to adjust a given input into that set of settings it is tougher. As far as I know, the only combo of discrete codes to force the input to a specific Crop Input or Scale Out setting -- when you are not sure what the current setting might be -- involves opening the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold "7" key for several seconds), and then navigating within that menu by arrow keys to the correct entry, and then pressing "Select".


Selecting it manually is easier: Shortcuts to both Crop Input and Scale Out can be found under the "Mode" key. But those only let you adjust up or down (using the arrow keys) from whatever the current selection happens to be.

--Bob


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You can store one set of Custom cropping info for each overlayed input -- via the Video Source Adjust menu while that input is currently selected -- and if you'd like you can make Custom cropping be the default Crop Input setting for a given overlayed input (i.e., DVD2, etc.). Then you can program your remote to switch to that overlayed input when needed.
> 
> 
> You can do the same sort of thing with the Scale Out setting for that same overlayed input, as necessary.



Overlayed inputs sounds like EXACTLY what I need, thanks! Hopefully Anthem will have a fix for the random startup problem you described shortly.


-Dave


----------



## AnthemAVM

Currently a AVM30 user, and want to get into a AVM50, my dealer offered to take my AVM30 and he would give me a new AVM50 for $2500 bucks, do you think it is worth it?


Michael


----------



## abc999

I dont think you can get the avm50 much lower than its MSRP therefore with a trade in value of around 2200 for the avm30, I think its a fair deal considering your dealer still has to sell it .


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Currently a AVM30 user, and want to get into a AVM50, my dealer offered to take my AVM30 and he would give me a new AVM50 for $2500 bucks, do you think it is worth it?
> 
> 
> Michael




Deffinetly. Used AVM 30's are going for around $1800-1900. Unless you wanted to wait and do the AVM30-HD upgrade that will cost $1700-2000.


----------



## Shaktijess

A thought re: stretching a 2:33 image to get a properly proportioned image (no stretch) that will just fill a 16:9 screen, IOW a 1:85 aspect ratio. Can I just program the D2 (actually the AVM 50) to convert the image to a 1:85 aspect ration without doing it manually whenever it sees a 2:33 image?( My dish 622 does this fine, darn shame the pio 1140 can't quite get it.)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shaktijess* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A thought re: stretching a 2:33 image to get a properly proportioned image (no stretch) that will just fill a 16:9 screen, IOW a 1:85 aspect ratio. Can I just program the D2 (actually the AVM 50) to convert the image to a 1:85 aspect ration without doing it manually whenever it sees a 2:33 image?( My dish 622 does this fine, darn shame the pio 1140 can't quite get it.)



I'm not sure you've quite twigged off on what's happening here yet.


If the image is a different shape than the screen you can't change the image to fill the screen without distorting it or losing some portion of it off the edges, or both. It won't all fit without distortion, no matter WHAT you do.


If you choose to crop it, you can expand it without distortion. If you choose to distort it, you can decide whether to do that uniformly or non-uniformly. And you can choose to do only SOME cropping and SOME distortion so as to require less distortion. But you can't eliminate the letter box bars (or pillar box bars) built into the source content without distortion and/or cropping unless the image is already BOTH letter boxed AND pillar boxed as with a 16:9 movie being shown in a 4:3 SDTV frame on a 16:9 HDTV display.


--------------------------------------------------------------------


In the Anthems, you can pre-set the way you would like images of a certain shape to be changed to better fill the screen. You can set one, specific, custom crop shape per input, and you can set what the Anthem does to expand that crop shape. And you can set any input to use such a pre-set by default.


But if you want to use that method only some of the time for some given input you will have to enable and disable it manually. The Anthem has no way of knowing whether an incoming 16:9 or 4:3 video signal actually contains an image of a different shape that's already been padded out (with letter or pillar boxes) to that 16:9 or 4:3 by the source.


--------------------------------------------------------------------


A 16:9 aspect ratio (16 units wide by 9 units tall) is 1.78 times as wide as it is tall (just do the math). Movies that have been designed to play on 16:9 TVs vary. But an HDTV video SIGNAL is going to be 16:9 regardless of what type of movie it is carrying, and an SDTV video SIGNAL is going to be 4:3 again regardless. The movie is padded out to fill that 16:9 or 4:3 shape by letter or pillar boxes that are already IN THE CONTENT.


Some movies look as if they are 16:9 but aren't. Some movies are actually 1.66 or 1.85 for example. A 1.66 movie actually has tiny pillar box bars on either side BUILT IN TO THE CONTENT to pad it out to 1.78. A 1.85 move, similarly, has tiny letter box bars top and bottom. The normal HDTV setups used by most folks have enough "overscan" that they don't actually see these, as they are lost under the edges of the screen. But if your video setup actually displays all pixels then you WILL see these.


Meanwhile, cinematic movie content is generally "wider than wide screen". The 2.35 aspect ratio is a common one, but by no means the only one. Cinematic aspect ratios of 2.20:1, 2.40:1, and 2.55:1 are also quite common, and "Cinemascope" aspect ratios can be even WIDER.


Many people just watch these at 16:9 = 1.78:1, leaving the necessary letter box bars on screen so as to pad the movie image top and bottom to that 1.78 shape. Others do what you want to do and apply a combination of cropping and distortion (in some balance) to fill the screen. For most such folks, the setting they use for a 2.35 movie is also applied to a 2.20, or 2.40, or 2.55 movie without realizing that it is not so "correct". And then when they watch a Cinemascope movie they STILL see letter box bars and get annoyed.


----------------------------------------------------------------


The Anthems only have 16:9 and 4:3 crops built in. Anything fancier than that you will need to enter yourself. Whatever shape you crop out of the input, the Anthems can be set to expand (either uniformly or non-uniformly) until it can't be expanded any more without losing more image under some edge, or the Anthems will pad with Letter/Pillar Box bars as necessary to match the 16:9 shape of your screen.


But you'll have to decide when to turn on your Custom cropping.

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio

I am in the "hunt" for a new projector. What do you gents recommend? I am an AVM-50 owner.


----------



## Shaktijess

Yes, thanks for your patience , Bob- i do understand that I will either lose some image or have some distortion, or a combination of both. I don't mind losing some image on the sides. My question was, can I set the Anthem to do it automatically, given a 2:35 source, without having to do it manually "by eye." It doesn't matter so much really , as long as I can do it, which you have nicely indicated can be done. Thanks again. I'll probably get one.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am in the "hunt" for a new projector. What do you gents recommend? I am an AVM-50 owner.



Ruby or Pearl is my two cent recommendation.


Then there will be a DIAMOND in September.


----------



## abc999

I am using the hc5000


----------



## Egan

I've done a search and read a good portion of this thread, but I am interested in hearing opinions from SXRD rear projection owners using the D2--- has it really made a significant difference in improving picture quality? I am deciding whether to spend the $2000 to upgrade my D1. I have the 1st gen 60" SXRD, HD via DirecTV, Toshiba A1 HD-DVD. Thanks for any opinions.


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've done a search and read a good portion of this thread, but I am interested in hearing opinions from SXRD rear projection owners using the D2--- has it really made a significant difference in improving picture quality? I am deciding whether to spend the $2000 to upgrade my D1. I have the 1st gen 60" SXRD, HD via DirecTV, Toshiba A1 HD-DVD. Thanks for any opinions.



I would say yes to get PCM audio, HDMI switching and a Gennum processor all in one box. I'm sure the Gennum is better then the processor in the SXRD and PCM audio is a night and day difference over Bitstream. I have a D2 and took it to a friends house to show him the gain in audio via HDMI over coax into his D1. Needless to say, he is on the upgrade list.


Jeremy


----------



## robena

Levesque:


Does the D2 decode AAC?


----------



## Egan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would say yes to get PCM audio, HDMI switching and a Gennum processor all in one box. I'm sure the Gennum is better then the processor in the SXRD and PCM audio is a night and day difference over Bitstream. I have a D2 and took it to a friends house to show him the gain in audio via HDMI over coax into his D1. Needless to say, he is on the upgrade list.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Thanks Jeremy, but was wondering about your PCM comment. I was under the impression that I should be passing bitstream to the D1 and let it do all the processing, for the best sound. (Using analog outs now on the Toshiba, so it's moot, but if I do upgrade my D1.)


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've done a search and read a good portion of this thread, but I am interested in hearing opinions from SXRD rear projection owners using the D2--- has it really made a significant difference in improving picture quality? I am deciding whether to spend the $2000 to upgrade my D1. I have the 1st gen 60" SXRD, HD via DirecTV, Toshiba A1 HD-DVD. Thanks for any opinions.




Egan,


I own the same TV. This Anthem certainly does improves the image. To me, it's more noticable with 480i material.


However, as you know, the SXRD has a native 1080p display, but only accepts up to a 1080i signal. I often wonder if the TV is cryptonite to the Anthem scaler since the TV is using its own scaler and upscaling what the Gennum is doing.


Mark


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am in the "hunt" for a new projector. What do you gents recommend? I am an AVM-50 owner.



Look at the next-gen JVC DiLA 1080p. If it is half as good as the HD2K I have it's worth twice what they are asking for it.


----------



## Egan

Thanks Mark,


That's pretty much the heart of the matter, wondering if having to output 1080i to the SXRD is negating most of the benefits of the Gennum scaler. I do watch mostly SD programming though so still may benefit, just have to decide if it's worth the $2000 investment.


-Greg


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Mark,
> 
> 
> That's pretty much the heart of the matter, wondering if having to output 1080i to the SXRD is negating most of the benefits of the Gennum scaler. I do watch mostly SD programming though so still may benefit, just have to decide if it's worth the $2000 investment.
> 
> 
> -Greg



On your earlier question: You use high bandwidth, multi-channel PCM over HDMI when listening to the new, lossless audio formats from HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs. The HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player does the unzipping of those formats into PCM.


You also use PCM over HDMI for listening to SACD or DVD-Audio over HDMI from players that will send it out that way (such as the Oppo 970).


For everything else you use bitstream and the Anthem does the decoding. [EDIT: Well for completeness I should say that any bitstream connection will automatically revert to stereo PCM if the audio you are playing doesn't happen to be encoded -- such as when playing a CD or watching most TV programs.]


------------------------------------------------------------


The process of turning 1080i input into 1080p native display resolution in your TV is "de-interlacing". It is likely the Anthem does this better than your TV, but because the resolution is already so high the artifacts that might be produced if your TV does simple, "bob and weave" de-interlacing are much MUCH less visible than artifacts that arise from improper de-interlacing of lower resolution stuff.


And that's where the Anthem will surely help. When watching SD, the Anthem de-interlaces it (a necessary first step prior to scaling), scales it up, and interlaces it again to produce the 1080i output signal your TV requires. Both the de-interlacing of the lower res signal and the scaling are likely superior to what your TV does.


Now there ARE TVs out there which are known to do really REALLY bad de-interlacing of 1080i to 1080p. What happens, simply put, is that they throw away half the vertical resolution so that what you are REALLY seeing is more like 540p. The folks over at Secrets of Home Theater exposed a bunch of these last year. I don't know if your TV falls into that group.

--Bob


----------



## Egan

Thanks a lot for the information Bob. It seems then that the most benefit for me with the SXRD will be with the SD programming.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot for the information Bob. It seems then that the most benefit for me with the SXRD will be with the SD programming.



Well it's a little hard to pin it down like that.


There is significant possible improvement with SD, but only if the SD feed is good to begin with. If the SD feed is already damaged -- as DirecTV has been known to do from time to time for example -- you may not notice any real improvement because the artifacts already in the image will dominate. You can't really undo damage that's been done before the image arrives at your house.


Then there's the fact that the Anthem will also help when scaling 720p HDTV.


Then there's the fact that the Anthem will deal with any of the subtle differences in signal type -- SD color space vs. HD, or RGB vs. Extended RGB particularly from any DVI sources for example.


Then there's the fact that the Anthem does an excellent job of transcoding other input video sources to HDMI output which reduces the number of types of cable you have to run to your TV -- along with maintaining on screen overlay of its own user interface.


And then there is the extra adjustability the Anthem provides on the signal such as the custom cropping stuff we've been discussing recently and things like input level adjustments and output Gamma correction.


I suppose what it really all boils down to is that you can set your TV in the one particular set of settings that work best for it, including level settings that work particularly well for its HDMI 1080i input -- and then leave it to the Anthem to handle converting anything else to that one type of output signal.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am in the "hunt" for a new projector. What do you gents recommend? I am an AVM-50 owner.



Greetings,


I am using the Sony Pearl with my AVM-50 and the paring is quite impressive.



Regards,


----------



## PaulF

This is an excellent thread, one of the most informative and enjoyable I have read on this forum, and made quite the resource by Bob P. Levesqe, Drhanks and all those who contributed their knowledge.


First let me preface my following comments by saying that I think Anthem, and in particular the D2, sound like exceptional products. My hat's off to the engineers that pulled it off, but even moreso to the product manager who specified the product. Finally a serious audio/videophile product that provides all the necessary features in a one box solution (fewer cables and one remote







).


As I go through my search for an HDMI centric AV upgrade, I mostly considered separate audio pre/pro (or receiver) with HDMI video switching, external video processor and perhaps even stand-alone room correction solution. The D2 has certainly made me reconsider. While I agree the D2 is probably the best speced AV processor on the market, it is just a hair short of AV nirvana (perhaps already there for some of you).


My philosophy is the the pre/pro (or receiver) is the hub, the center of my AV system, where most if not all processing takes place (I know this goes counter to BD advanced material and the like) but I see myself changing out sources and displays far more often than pre/pro.


So here is where I see room for improvement, with the following changes this product (or perhaps a D3) would be irresistible. In no particular order of priority...



- Ethernet port, they seriously need to add one. Using an outdated serial port on a device of this caliber is simply wrong and causes too many problems. I like the thought of using my wireless laptop to adjust the advanced video settings while sitting on my couch watching the TV. BTW, DVDO includes a USB/Serial adapter with the VP50 today.


- Step up to the Gennum 9450. A key feature here is the Mosquito Noise and Block Artifact reduction, both a result of MPEG video compression so it makes sense to turn these ON for poor source material. This feature is available on the Realta HQV and is coming to ABT with the new ABT2010 chip. BTW, the Gennum 9350 is no longer listed on the Gennum web site.


- More optical inputs (as opposed to coax) - I don't know if the D2 buffers and re-clocks the incoming digital signal for maximum performance but optical inputs are a great way to avoid ground loop problems between components.


- A second HDMI output for more than one display device.


- Analog video bandwidth increased from 110 MHz (in realm of $1,700 RXV-2700 - 100 MHz) to 300 MHz (Arcam AV9 realm).


- Simplay HDMI testing. If testing is only done on HDMI 1.3 (not sure) then this is reason enough to step up to version 1.3. More info on Simplay here> Simplay . BTW, certified cables will be categorized into two classes, see this article> Simplay testing .


- HDMI version 1.2a (covered by 1.3) for SACD bitstream input with appropriate decoding. Hopefully this avoids the need to switch the player to HD video mode when setup for 480i video out on HDMI.


- 1080p reprocessing, color space, overscan etc. Coming in the ABT2010, not sure if the D2 supports or has path to it but would be very useful.


- HDMI 1.3 for deep color output e.g. YCbCr 4:4:4 at 10 or 12 bit. I suspect new displays will move in this direction as a competitive feature once HDMI 1.3 equipped models come to market. The ABT2010's specs suggest support for this but it's not clear. Also support for 120 Hz refresh rates (TVs already announced by Samsung).


- A full 7.1 (8 channel) PCM input on the HDMI interfaces for upcoming HD-DVD/BD content like the announced LOTR. Again, something now available on the Yammy RXV-2700.


- Room EQ correction. Apparently on the way but no formal announcement? Some Denon receivers support this well today through Audyssey.


- On the audio front the D2 seems near perfect but I would like to see support for Dolby TrueHD and DTS HD bitstreams over HDMI with internal decoding.



The D2 appears to provide exceptional audio and video quality which I intend to audition soon. My suggestions point more to a slight increase in flexibility and improvement of the overall user experience.



Paul


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So here is where I see room for improvement, with the following changes this product (or perhaps a D3) would be irresistible. In no particular order of priority...



Concur with many of these thoughts. I think the chip may go up 2 generations for a D3 though.



> Quote:
> - More optical inputs (as opposed to coax) - I don't know if the D2 buffers and re-clocks the incoming digital signal for maximum performance but optical inputs are a great way to avoid ground loop problems between components.
> 
> 
> - A second HDMI output for more than one display device.



I don't know the HDCP rules but it would help my funky Zone 2 config to use a monitor and projector alternatively in the same room).



> Quote:
> - Simplay HDMI testing.
> 
> 
> - 1080p reprocessing, color space, overscan etc. Coming in the ABT2010, not sure if the D2 supports or has path to it but would be very useful.
> 
> 
> - HDMI 1.3



With so many 1080p devices (inputs & outputs) this would be much better than passthrough.



> Quote:
> - A full 7.1 (8 channel) PCM input on the HDMI interfaces for upcoming HD-DVD/BD content like the announced LOTR. Again, something now available on the Yammy RXV-2700.



A definite want, actually make it 10.2 capable for when SDDS from Sony is a home format











> Quote:
> - Room EQ correction. Apparently on the way but no formal announcement? Some Denon receivers support this well today through Audyssey.



Let's face it, MCACC from low end Pioneers do multi-position room Eq which is very good.


A $600+ microphone for the D2 is a kludge approach. I think a the Audyssey in practice would support more than half of the buyers at a very low added cost.



> Quote:
> - On the audio front the D2 seems near perfect but I would like to see support for Dolby TrueHD and DTS HD bitstreams over HDMI with internal decoding.



And the Master formats.



> Quote:
> Paul



Would also like a Halcro-like LCD in front panel to see Zone 1 video for diagnostic purposes (since mine is in an equipment room behind viewing room.


Good puts.


Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just so we don't confuse anyone, the D2 and AVM-50 already "process" 1080p video input and output -- up to 1080p/60Hz over HDMI and up to 1080p/30Hz (or 1080i/60Hz) over Component.


[This would include, should you choose to use it, Component 1080p/24Hz from HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players for example -- as long as studios continue shipping titles that don't prohibit it. And of course any processed Component input can be transcoded to HDMI output.]


The D2 and AVM-50 will also "pass through" UNprocessed Component 1080p/60Hz.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just so we don't confuse anyone, the D2 and AVM-50 already "process" 1080p video input and output -- up to 1080p/60Hz over HDMI and up to 1080p/30Hz (or 1080i/60Hz) over Component.
> 
> 
> [This would include, should you choose to use it, Component 1080p/24Hz from HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players for example -- as long as studios continue shipping titles that don't prohibit it. And of course any processed Component input can be transcoded to HDMI output.]
> 
> 
> The D2 and AVM-50 will also "pass through" UNprocessed Component 1080p/60Hz.
> 
> --Bob




Agree with a comment earlier about this being one of the most informative and useful threads on the net - especially hats off to Bob and Levesque - your knowledge/insight is fantastic.

My question - I am a bit confused...

I am running the D2 to the Panny 65" 1080p plasma. I have the Toshiba HD-AX2.

Should I be setting the AX2 to 480i and letting the D2 process or set the XA2 to 1080p which is what I have currently done - the picture is fantastic.

Thanks guys!

/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Paul,

There is no point in sending /120Hz to any TV. The content -- at /24Hz or /30Hz -- can easily be turned into /120Hz refresh rate by the TV by repeating frames. The whole point of the /120Hz TVs is that 120 is a whole multiple of both 24 and 30 (and the lowest such number) so that you can do this without having to change refresh rates in the TV. But actually transferring /120Hz over the cable to the TV would be a waste of bandwidth. That is, there's no additional information in there and there's no difficult processing you are saving the TV from having to do itself.


-----------------------------------------------------


For the relative importance of HDMI V1.2a or V1.3 features, now or anytime soon, see the "Why you don't need HDMI V1.3" sticky thread at the top of this forum.


Deep Color, in particular, is WAY overrated.


And any new audio format decoding added into the Anthems will, in all likelihood, not function for the most important task -- playing audio from HD-DVD and Blu-Ray movies -- due to the inherent restrictions of "advanced content" authoring already in place for HD-DVD and coming soon for Blu-Ray.


------------------------------------------------------


I think your other points are well founded, although many would disagree with the relative importance of accepting 7.1 input.


Now I'm viewing all this purely from the perspective of new features that would be useful. Anthem may very well need to add some features, such as HDMI V1.3, purely for marketing purposes even if they don't add any real value.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Agree with a comment earlier about this being one of the most informative and useful threads on the net - especially hats off to Bob and Levesque - your knowledge/insight is fantastic.
> 
> My question - I am a bit confused...
> 
> I am running the D2 to the Panny 65" 1080p plasma. I have the Toshiba HD-AX2.
> 
> Should I be setting the AX2 to 480i and letting the D2 process or set the XA2 to 1080p which is what I have currently done - the picture is fantastic.
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> /\\/\\



I think you mean the Toshiba HD-XA2 HD-DVD player.


If so, you have some options. As I understand it, that player will output 1080p without interlacing the data coming off the disc and then de-interlacing it again. If that's true, then HDMI 1080p output is appropriate for HD-DVD discs. This would be 1080p/24Hz for movies.


If, on the other hand, it does it on the cheap by interlacing the data off the disc and then de-interlacing it again, you might want to send HDMI 1080i/60Hz to the Anthem on the off chance the Toshiba has hidden problems in its de-interlacing after the necessary fields are replicated to raise the movie input frame rate to the video output frame rate.


Meanwhile for SD DVDs, the usual recommendation would be to send HDMI 480i to the Anthem and let the Anthem do all the heavy lifting.


However there is some preliminary information that the low res de-interlacing and scaling in the XA2 is very very good. In which case you have the option of sending 1080p to the Anthem as well.


*BUT*, I have not yet seen testing results from the people I trust to test this stuff showing that the XA2 does not have subtle problems in SD DVD playback either at HDMI 480i or HDMI 1080p. Such results should be available soon.


Until then, and unless you have a signal analyzer yourself, it is a bit of a gamble picking one way over another. For now, go with what looks good to you.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 and AVM-50 will also "pass through" UNprocessed Component 1080p/60Hz.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Are you stating that 1080p/60 can be processed, and not only passed through. That was the point, not that it wouldn't take in or process to 1080p.


So again the question, can 1080p/60 in to a 1080p/60 output be processed?


Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Are you stating that 1080p/60 can be processed, and not only passed through. That was the point, not that it wouldn't take in or process to 1080p.
> 
> 
> So again the question, can 1080p/60 in to a 1080p/60 output be processed?
> 
> 
> Tim



Yes, you can process Component 1080p inputs, up to 1080p/30Hz input, and you can process HDMI 1080p inputs, up to 1080p/60Hz input.


The processing you can do to Component 1080p/30Hz or HDMI 1080p/60Hz inputs is the same as you can do at lower resolutions.


Processed Component output is limited to 1080p/30Hz. Processed HDMI output is limited to 1080p/60Hz. So for example you could input Component 1080p/30Hz and output HDMI 1080p/60Hz. The transcoding of the Component to HDMI and the frame rate conversion from /30Hz to /60Hz are both examples of processing the Anthems will do.


Component 1080p/60Hz input can only be handled UNprocessed -- meaning all you can get as output is the same Component 1080p/60Hz. You can't get HDMI output from it and you can't modify it in any other way on the path from input to output. All you can do is select the Component input that will be switched to the Component output.


HDMI 1080p/60Hz input, on the other hand, can be processed in all the ways the Anthem processes video, and then sent out as any supported HDMI output resolution -- all the way up to HDMI 1080p/60Hz. If the HDMI input is not HDCP copy protected, you can also send out Component video output from it, but only up to Component 1080p/30Hz.

--Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

does anyone know if I can use balanced center 2 and assign it for a third sub?


thanks, Bob


----------



## rudolpht

Bob,


Thanks, so I stand corrected. 1080p/60 HDMI in can be processed to 1080p/60 out and not only passed through. That's a pleasant surprise to me as I though like input to output was only passed through. So algorithms like mosquito reduction and cropping/framing can be applied, I take it. This was really the point of the "D3 request for 1080p/60 in to 1080p/60 out processing," a few threads above it was not to confuse folks about the capabilities of the anthem.


For example, I used to run the Samsung semi-kludged 1080p output intentionally at 1080i for the Anthem to do motion compensated 1080p processing. On the XA2 amd BDP-HD1 I output 1080p/60 for HD source material. I assumed it was passed through to my 1080p/60 projector, but I now understand it is processed by the Anthem. Cool.


Thanks Bob for your fountain of knowledge.


Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> does anyone know if I can use balanced center 2 and assign it for a third sub?
> 
> 
> thanks, Bob



I don't know of a way to do it. You CAN re-assign it and balanced sub 2 as a second pair of Zone 2 outputs, which can be useful if you have a long cable run to your Zone 2 amp.


Of course, realizing that the existing 2 sub outputs are the same output (i.e., not separately controllable outputs), and realizing that the impedance into the power amp in each of the subs is probably pretty high, I would expect you could simply split either of the existing sub outputs and drive your third sub off of one leg of that. I haven't actually tried to do this.

--Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

thanks Bob, I will email nick and see if can be done, I just wanted to check with you guys first. Im sure Anthem gets hammered with repetitive emails daily.



Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> thanks Bob, I will email nick and see if can be done, I just wanted to check with you guys first. Im sure Anthem gets hammered with repetitive emails daily.
> 
> 
> 
> Bob



You could also, I suppose, run 2 subs off the two balanced sub outputs and 2 additional subs off the two RCA sub outputs. You'd likely have to use the volume control on the various subs to correct for the 6dB difference in output level between the balanced and RCA outputs.


So that gets you up to 4 subs.

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

Hey, I have a problem, I am experiencing a drop in picture when I watch the D2 through hdmi or component. Here is my setup: Samsung DTB-H260F(over the air hdtv tuner) connected to my d2, first via hdmi, now component. D2 to my tv, via dvi to hdmi at the d2, with a converter not a solid cable. Now it is connected via component also, suspect tricky cableing. I connected the sound via optical now but first tried the hdmi, which worked great then went out. Problem is that the hdmi connection from the sammy tuner outputs 480p 720p or 1080i. with component you can get down to 480i. Which i switched to at the end of the super bowl but by then i was tired of messing with it and just turned it all off. So, when i was outputting at 1080i, the picture would just go out, and then I would get a rolling screen of bars. I would shut down the d2 and then turn it back on and it would show the picture again. every 15 to 20 minutes I would loose the picture and have to repeat the process. Can anyone shed some light on this, if it has already been discussed, I apologize, but I dont feel like rereading this whole thread. Thanks for your help. Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey, I have a problem, I am experiencing a drop in picture when I watch the D2 through hdmi or component. Here is my setup: Samsung DTB-H260F(over the air hdtv tuner) connected to my d2, first via hdmi, now component. D2 to my tv, via dvi to hdmi at the d2, with a converter not a solid cable. Now it is connected via component also, suspect tricky cableing. I connected the sound via optical now but first tried the hdmi, which worked great then went out. Problem is that the hdmi connection from the sammy tuner outputs 480p 720p or 1080i. with component you can get down to 480i. Which i switched to at the end of the super bowl but by then i was tired of messing with it and just turned it all off. So, when i was outputting at 1080i, the picture would just go out, and then I would get a rolling screen of bars. I would shut down the d2 and then turn it back on and it would show the picture again. every 15 to 20 minutes I would loose the picture and have to repeat the process. Can anyone shed some light on this, if it has already been discussed, I apologize, but I dont feel like rereading this whole thread. Thanks for your help. Rob



This could be several things, but the first suspect is that you have been stricken with the 1080i input bug. If you get hit with this bug, then sending 1080i to the D2 (over either HDMI or Component) screws up that input AND other inputs, even if you then change resolutions. To get around the bug you need to change output from all your souce devices to be less than 1080i and then power cycle the D2.


Anthem has told some folks they have the same bug, even though none of their sources is sending 1080i, due to the OUTPUT from the Anthem being 1080i or 1080p.


If no source is set to send higher than 720p to the D2 over Component or HDMI, and the video output is also not 1080i or 1080p, then this bug apparently can't happen.


This bug apparently cropped up with the 1.1x software, and apparently affects about 10% of the Anthems -- most likely due to the particular source devices people are using more than any manufacturing difference in the Anthems. There is trial software available from Anthem (contact tech support) that appears to fix most, and perhaps all of this problem. The most recent version of the trial software reported here is V1.11c.


I think this is most likely what you are facing since you are having the problem on Component as well as HDMI and since it affects more than one source device.


For now do this: Set your Anthem video output to 720p. Set each source device so that it can't send higher than 720p to the Anthem. AFTER doing that, power cycle the Anthem.


If the problem doesn't recur when set this way, then you've likely got the 1080i bug. Contact Anthem tech support for the trial software.


If the problem DOES recur, even at 720p over Component connections, then I think the video board in your Anthem may be failing. I'm basing this on what I think you said -- i.e., that you are driving your display with Component cables as well as using Component for input.


If you still have the HDMI to DVI connection driving your display then it could be that this cabling is marginal and that's contributing to the problem.

--Bob


----------



## PaulF

Bob,


Good to hear of the D2's 1080p reprocessing capabilities. As more HD sources come to market this will become more utilized.


I thought you might pick up on the 120 Hz output and your response is technically correct... but my philosophy is that the pre/pro should do the heavy lifting. Today we have deinterlacing/scaling offered in sources, processors/receivers and displays. There is way too much functional overlap between devices adding unnecessary cost (i.e. put the money towards improving each device's core function). No wonder the average consumer is confused.


I subscribe to a highly capable hub with cheaper sources and displays. The D2 coupled with the Oppo 970 is a great example of this.


Paul


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Good to hear of the D2's 1080p reprocessing capabilities. As more HD sources come to market this will become more utilized.
> 
> ...
> 
> There is way too much functional overlap between devices adding unnecessary cost (i.e. put the money towards improving each device's core function). No wonder the average consumer is confused.
> 
> ...
> 
> Paul



Pop me into that category.


Is there a list of 1080p/60 to 1080p/60 applicable processing functions on the Anthem?

While the processing on 1080i sources (like D-VHS & many cable boxes) is fairly intuitive (and useful), still wondering 1080p/60 to 1080p/60 capabilities, or even how to set it for passthru if I didn't want the processing????


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am in the "hunt" for a new projector. What do you gents recommend? I am an AVM-50 owner.




JVC RS1 is also a good choice.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> First let me preface my following comments by saying that I think Anthem, and in particular the D2, sound like exceptional products. My hat's off to the engineers that pulled it off, but even moreso to the product manager who specified the product. Finally a serious audio/videophile product that provides all the necessary features in a one box solution (fewer cables and one remote
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> As I go through my search for an HDMI centric AV upgrade, I mostly considered separate audio pre/pro (or receiver) with HDMI video switching, external video processor and perhaps even stand-alone room correction solution. The D2 has certainly made me reconsider. While I agree the D2 is probably the best speced AV processor on the market, it is just a hair short of AV nirvana (perhaps already there for some of you).
> 
> 
> My philosophy is the the pre/pro (or receiver) is the hub, the center of my AV system, where most if not all processing takes place (I know this goes counter to BD advanced material and the like) but I see myself changing out sources and displays far more often than pre/pro.



Paul,


That what I though too until I jumped in the HD bandwagon. Having the HD audio only available on HDMI or analogue output from the sources make the use of separate units a lot more complicated in usage. After trying the D2 and compared to my VP50, I found that VP50 provided only little benefice compared to the D2 video processing but in terms of usage it is extremely simplified and significantly increase the HDMI stability of the whole setup.


----------



## PaulF

Tolstoi,


You could send HDMI video and audio to a Yamaha RXV-2700, pass the video through to an external VP and decode either bitstream or up to 7.1 LPCM audio in the Yamaha itself.


But that's another HDMI connection between two devices in the video chain, and given the complications on HDMI even with the D2, I tend to agree that simplicity is better.


Paul


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a list of 1080p/60 to 1080p/60 applicable processing functions on the Anthem?
> 
> While the processing on 1080i sources (like D-VHS & many cable boxes) is fairly intuitive (and useful), still wondering 1080p/60 to 1080p/60 capabilities, or even how to set it for passthru if I didn't want the processing????



Anthem has conveniently listed most such possibilities for you under the "7" key on the remote. It's called the Video Source Adjust menu. (grin!)


Add a few additional input and output items from the Setup menu and you've got it.


Input color space and data format conversions, level adjustment, noise reduction, detail enhancement, film content detection, cropping options, scaling of content cropped from the input stream, gamma correction, and output color space and data format conversions (including HDMI sync) for example.


Obviously frame rate conversion doesn't apply if both the input and output are 1080p/60Hz. [But auto frame rate lock might very well apply.]


Nor can transcoding apply (conversion of Component to HDMI for example) since you can only process 1080p/60Hz input to output using HDMI at both ends.


In addition, the Anthem can offload HDCP protocol stuff from the source device via the HDMI Repeater option.


Quite a lot of processing really.

--Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> thanks Bob, I will email nick and see if can be done, I just wanted to check with you guys first. Im sure Anthem gets hammered with repetitive emails daily.
> 
> 
> 
> Bob



Nick emailed me back heres his response,


Hi Bob,


Sorry, can't be assigned like that although between the RCA and XLR outputs there are 4 sub outs that can be used simultaneously. If there is no grounding or interference issue, there is nothing wrong with using the RCA out.


Best Regards,

Nick P., Technical Support


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ethernet port, they seriously need to add one. Using an outdated serial port on a device of this caliber is simply wrong and causes too many problems. I like the thought of using my wireless laptop to adjust the advanced video settings while sitting on my couch watching the TV. BTW, DVDO includes a USB/Serial adapter with the VP50 today.



RS-232 has to stay because thousands of installed Crestron and AMX controllers use RS-232...







And don't forget that alot of professionnal installers doing high-end installations still love those...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Step up to the Gennum 9450. A key feature here is the Mosquito Noise and Block Artifact reduction, both a result of MPEG video compression so it makes sense to turn these ON for poor source material. This feature is available on the Realta HQV and is coming to ABT with the new ABT2010 chip. BTW, the Gennum 9350 is no longer listed on the Gennum web site.



The 9450's availability date is not known, and even when a chip like this comes out, it normally takes at least several months to build a processor around. And when the 9450 comes out, there will be another chip, and another after that, and so on...











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> More optical inputs (as opposed to coax) - I don't know if the D2 buffers and re-clocks the incoming digital signal for maximum performance but optical inputs are a great way to avoid ground loop problems between components.



The ground loop advantage is moot when another connection has to be made from the same source, such as video. In any case, coax is more versatile than optical because the connection can be longer and cheaper.Upsamplers re-clock the data, and the D2 has an upsampler.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A second HDMI output for more than one display device.



It is not so easy to get two HDMI outputs working at the same time because sources are designed to look for only one display. As well, the two displays would have to use the same resolution, data format, and refresh rate. It is common for people to use a projector for movies and a flat panel for the news in the same room - the latter can be connected by using the D2's component video switch in pass-through mode.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Analog video bandwidth increased from 110 MHz (in realm of $1,700 RXV-2700 - 100 MHz) to 300 MHz (Arcam AV9 realm).



The existing 110 MHz switching path is transparent for 1080i sources, and theoretically transparent for 1080p sources as well, except that the only known 1080p component video source is the xbox, and there is no known display accepting 1080p via component. Note that the spec for a component video switch is not the same as the spec for a component video switching path from the input jack to the output jack. A switch is just one part inside a path, and the layout of the copper traces affects bandwidth



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> - Simplay HDMI testing. If testing is only done on HDMI 1.3 (not sure) then this is reason enough to step up to version 1.3. More info on Simplay here> Simplay . BTW, certified cables will be categorized into two classes, see this article> Simplay testing .



Is every manufacturer going to submit each product for testing (increasing cost) and is Simplay going to be re-testing everything in every possible system each time something has a firmware update?







Don't think so...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI version 1.2a (covered by 1.3) for SACD bitstream input with appropriate decoding. Hopefully this avoids the need to switch the player to HD video mode when setup for 480i video out on HDMI.



SACD is beloved by some audiophiles but apparently insignificant to the rest of the world...










Nick told me he did asked Oppo if they can make 1080i-out automatic when playing DVD-A/SACD... maybe in next beta... and the HDMI Auto-PCM setting was also the idea of Anthem...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1080p reprocessing, color space, overscan etc. Coming in the ABT2010, not sure if the D2 supports or has path to it but would be very useful.



D2 has this since debut one year ago.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI 1.3 for deep color output e.g. YCbCr 4:4:4 at 10 or 12 bit. I suspect new displays will move in this direction as a competitive feature once HDMI 1.3 equipped models come to market. The ABT2010's specs suggest support for this but it's not clear.



Having HDMI v1.3 connection does not mean that even one new feature is added. More importantly, HDTV and hi-def discs use color that is 8 bits per channel, and that is not going to change.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A full 7.1 (8 channel) PCM input on the HDMI interfaces for upcoming HD-DVD/BD content like the announced LOTR. Again, something now available on the Yammy RXV-2700.



It remains to be seen if more than a handful of "showcase" discs will have more than 5.1 channels (for example, DTS-ES 6.1 Discrete didn't gain popularity, past the initial buzz, for a variety of reasons).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also support for 120 Hz refresh rates (TVs already announced by Samsung).



Only the TV needs to support 120 Hz, not the preamp. The purpose of 120 Hz scanning is so that the TV can prevent stuttering image regardless of whether the input is 24 Hz or 60 Hz. Also, for a cable to carry 1080p/120 it will need double the bandwidth compared to 1080p/60 (which could mean having to spending more time and money finding a reliable one).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Room EQ correction. Apparently on the way but no formal announcement? Some Denon receivers support this well today through Audyssey.



Anthem's room correction is in the making. Confirmed directly from Nick.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On the audio front the D2 seems near perfect but I would like to see support for Dolby TrueHD and DTS HD bitstreams over HDMI with internal decoding.



The definition of lossless audio means that it makes no difference to audio quality whether decoding is in the player or the preamp. There is, however, a practical difference - if the audio is decoded in the preamp, the interactive audio features, for example language selection, are lost. They can only be performed inside the player.


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anthem's room correction is in the making. Confirmed directly from Nick.



Wow!!










Is't possible to know about time of release...? weeks, months... ?


----------



## PaulF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Levesque*:
> 
> 
> RS-232 has to stay because thousands of installed Crestron and AMX controllers use RS-232... And don't forget that alot of professionnal installers doing high-end installations still love those...



I couldn't agree more. No point spending time and money removing existing features and, as you say, very useful for home automation. Unfortunately I don't own a Creston system







but I do own two networked PCs, a router/wireless access point and have Ethernet cabling at home. A 10/100 Ethernet port would cost next to nothing to add and it would open up a world of flexibility to people like me. I think it would make upgrades go smoother also.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Levesque*:
> 
> 
> The 9450's availability date is not known, and even when a chip like this comes out, it normally takes at least several months to build a processor around. And when the 9450 comes out, there will be another chip, and another after that, and so on...



Yes, it seems we are always lusting for the next best thing







but it appears the future has been revealed to us and 1080p displays along with 1080p sources like HD-DVD and BD are what's coming. The 1080p reprocessing features seem very good, but I really do want MNR and BAR before pulling the trigger and we now know that solutions are around the corner. I know time slips away, it has been nearly five months since the Gennum 9450 announcement so I'm hoping for next gen solutions to be announced on or before CEDIA.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Levesque*:
> 
> 
> The ground loop advantage is moot when another connection has to be made from the same source, such as video. In any case, coax is more versatile than optical because the connection can be longer and cheaper.Upsamplers re-clock the data, and the D2 has an upsampler.



Good point, at least it works for audio sources and does reduce some possibility of earth loops. This is definitely more a wish list item and certainly not a show-stopper.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Levesque*:
> 
> 
> It is not so easy to get two HDMI outputs working at the same time because sources are designed to look for only one display. As well, the two displays would have to use the same resolution, data format, and refresh rate. It is common for people to use a projector for movies and a flat panel for the news in the same room - the latter can be connected by using the D2's component video switch in pass-through mode.



It's not so much a need to drive two displays at once as it is to have two display devices cabled to the box. I would be happy with an HDMI output toggle button on the remote (provided I can configure them independently). Would this still pose a problem to HDMI?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Levesque*:
> 
> 
> The existing 110 MHz switching path is transparent for 1080i sources, and theoretically transparent for 1080p sources as well, except that the only known 1080p component video source is the xbox, and there is no known display accepting 1080p via component. Note that the spec for a component video switch is not the same as the spec for a component video switching path from the input jack to the output jack. A switch is just one part inside a path, and the layout of the copper traces affects bandwidth



As far as I understand about 30Mhz is about the minimum you would want for an HD analog video path. We often revere audio components that stretch the passband out to 150 KHz so why not provide the same level of headroom for video? I understand what you mean about the entire switching path but I think the Arcam would have that covered. However it does become a moot point if there are not going to be 1080p analog sources as you mention











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Levesque*:
> 
> 
> Is every manufacturer going to submit each product for testing (increasing cost) and is Simplay going to be re-testing everything in every possible system each time something has a firmware update? Don't think so...



Here's where we differ on thinking Levesque. I come from the telecom world where (often independent) interop testing is a must. I don't think 1-2 days testing would cost more than $10-15K and this could easily be borne by the quantities involved. It would also reduce the support costs by lowing the amount of problems seen. I just think most companies have a long way to go with HDMI and the knowledge gained from the first products tested would probably trickle into other products quickly.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Levesque*:
> 
> 
> SACD is beloved by some audiophiles but apparently insignificant to the rest of the world...



SACD not a big deal to me but it's nice to have the option. The Oppo fix would satisfy me but may not help others not using the Oppo











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Levesque*:
> 
> 
> Having HDMI v1.3 connection does not mean that even one new feature is added. More importantly, HDTV and hi-def discs use color that is 8 bits per channel, and that is not going to change.



Yes understood but it is a prerequisite for those features to be supported. There currently is no other standard enabling most of the associated features. A few years ago we heard that EDTV was enough for any one more than 8-10 feet from their screen, then it was 720p, while all the time I argued that 1080(i) would win (yes I'm in technical marketing). I never even foresaw the 1080p revolution. Now it seems nothing less will do. Wait until all new displays support 1080p through HDMI 1.3, then you will see these enhanced features come to the forefront... and if the D2 is the box in the middle...










BTW, love your HT room. Can you tell me who makes the chairs? Also, it looks like you paid much attention to room treatment, how did you decide on your design/materials used?


Also, why is it so much of the nice gear comes from your part of the world lately. Do you guys spend all your time indoors?










Paul


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




LEVESQUE said:


> Anthem's room correction is in the making. Confirmed directly from Nick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and with athems track record Im sure it will kick butt!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cant wait!


----------



## Lars158




ultra 150 pilot said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anthem's room correction is in the making. Confirmed directly from Nick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and with athems track record Im sure it will kick butt!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cant wait!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AVM50 included or will this only be for the D2?
Click to expand...


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Paul,
> 
> 
> That what I though too until I jumped in the HD bandwagon. Having the HD audio only available on HDMI or analogue output from the sources make the use of separate units a lot more complicated in usage. After trying the D2 and compared to my VP50, I found that VP50 provided only little benefice compared to the D2 video processing but in terms of usage it is extremely simplified and significantly increase the HDMI stability of the whole setup.



Paul, are you saying that the HDMI stability is better with the VP50 in the mix as opposed to using the D2 to switch HDMI?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is not so easy to get two HDMI outputs working at the same time because sources are designed to look for only one display. As well, the two displays would have to use the same resolution, data format, and refresh rate. It is common for people to use a projector for movies and a flat panel for the news in the same room - the latter can be connected by using the D2's component video switch in pass-through mode.



Though I will always defer to your wisdom, I would still stick with my commentary on the next-generation want list, already happy to see some of the next generation features here today (grin back at ya Bob







)


On the point of two HDMI outputs, it actually is easy and proven to accommodate two HDCP outputs when the output format is the same. It is uncommon because of "policy" vs technical or engineering issues. To me the component out is a kludge for the second monitor in that I can only see 2 of about 8 sources on 2 1080p/60 devices.


It is the early adopter drive to want more, pay more, and be satisfied earlier


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anthem has conveniently listed most such possibilities for you under the "7" key on the remote. It's called the Video Source Adjust menu. (grin!)
> 
> 
> Add a few additional input and output items from the Setup menu and you've got it.
> 
> 
> Input color space and data format conversions, level adjustment, noise reduction, detail enhancement, film content detection, cropping options, scaling of content cropped from the input stream, gamma correction, and output color space and data format conversions (including HDMI sync) for example.
> 
> 
> Obviously frame rate conversion doesn't apply if both the input and output are 1080p/60Hz. [But auto frame rate lock might very well apply.]
> 
> 
> Nor can transcoding apply (conversion of Component to HDMI for example) since you can only process 1080p/60Hz input to output using HDMI at both ends.
> 
> 
> In addition, the Anthem can offload HDCP protocol stuff from the source device via the HDMI Repeater option.
> 
> 
> Quite a lot of processing really.
> 
> --Bob




Bob,


Thanks. That's the comprehensive answer I was looking for, including the Hold-7 bane of my existence


----------



## Big Tex

*Ok, I'm officially brain dead!!!!!! There is too much data on this site.*


I've spent the past three hours trying to determine if my Xbox 360 HD DVD 1080i component picture (connection) to my AVM 50 is as good as a native 1080P picture (VGA Connection) connected directly to my Sony Pearl. *Basically I'm curious if anyone can explain to me how my AVM 50 can take the 1080i HD DVD over component and make it look as good if not better than the native 1080P master on the disk. Can it?* _ Is it possible???? Right now I have the Xbox DVD player hooked up via component which I assume down revs the 1080P to 1080i. I assume I'm losing picture quality since the AVM converted to 1080P can't match the natural 1080P. Do I have this all wrong? I have the option to hook it up via VGA to get 1080P. Unfortunately the AVM 50 doesn't accept VGA.


Quick note. When Anthem upgraded to the latest code (1.11) they forgot to test 1080i via component. *Oops!!!!* I had to call and get a beta sample of code to fix it. The new code is 1.11c and 1080i over component now works.


Lastly I'm thinking of buying a PS3 for the Blue Ray player. Will the native 1080P connection via HDMI allow the Gennum to deinterlace the picture? What's the best way to hook up the PS3 to the AVM 50? Does anyone own a PS3? Impressions? Is Blue Ray better than HD DVD? I will say the Xbox sound isn't the greatest.


Thanks for all the help! Because of all you super smart geeks I purchased an AVM 50 and I love it. Thanks and please help this nerd want to be again!!!!


Big Tex_


----------



## rudolpht

Tex,


Lots of questions.


First off, what is your AVM connected to for a display device.


In terms of computer, I assume you could go DVI into the Anthem then Anthem into the display, however, there are some mixed results even with some additional adapters.


Personally I switch after the AVM to output PCs to a display, ie i have an HDMI switch that switches between the AVM output & two PC outputs, all 1080p/60.


I was pretty jazzed by the PS3 until I upgraded to the Pio Blu-Ray Player. It puts out a very affordable (relative to other Blu-Ray players) and it's a cell processor based games platform some people tell me too










There are a few good threads on PS3 use including some ramblings in this thread if you search on PS3.


Welcome,

Tim


BTW Bob is nearly unique in the ability to range from deep technobabble to understandable discourse by mere mortals, so he'll answer the questions better than I ever could.


----------



## zzzzdoc

First of all, sorry for the double post, but someone suggested that I will get my answer quicker by posting in this thread.


Just got a D2. The unit has a DVD player attached via component, and a Satellite box hooked up via component. I have both set to output 480i (for temporary reasons not important for this discussion).


The D2 occassionally sees the DVD player and outputs the signal. Only a specific turn on order accomplishes this (and I can't remember which sequence.) Most of the time, the D2 says no video signal, outputs a blue screen, but I hear the digital audio fine from both the satellite STB and the DVD player.


The OSD looks fine, so I know the front projector is seeing an appropriate signal from the D2.


Any suggestions on how to force the D2 to see the 480i component signal, lock onto it, and output it to my projector? When it is showing the signal, the front panel says DVD1 480i. When it doesn't show the signal, the front display just has Dolby Digital and the volume setting.


----------



## mlbrand

Quick question, I couldn't find this in earlier posts (but could have missed it).


Will the D2's custom scaling work with an HD signal?


This was being discussed in the 2:35 CIH forum here, as folks were wondering what scalers will allow you to vertically stretch/expand an HD signal so they can then horizontally stretch with their anamorphic lenses. It appears that many scalers won't do this, but I am thinking that the D2 will. Can Bob or someone confirm this?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When it is showing the signal, the front panel says DVD1 480i. When it doesn't show the signal, the front display just has Dolby Digital and the volume setting.




Sounds like you have the *GHOSTING* - Multiple Input Problem.


It is a wonderful new feature Anthem added which you soon

learn to hate and DISABLE.


I'm guessing here - but there are now 4 or 5 DVD inputs

enabled out of the box for the one and only DVD BUTTON.

You really only want one enabled and programmed for

your DVD Component Input.


HOW TO DISABLE them is in the manual or maybe Bob

will come along and tell you what is wrong.

*Bob is the Mr. HUMAN Manual*


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question, I couldn't find this in earlier posts (but could have missed it).
> 
> 
> Will the D2's custom scaling work with an HD signal?
> 
> 
> This was being discussed in the 2:35 CIH forum here, as folks were wondering what scalers will allow you to vertically stretch/expand an HD signal so they can then horizontally stretch with their anamorphic lenses. It appears that many scalers won't do this, but I am thinking that the D2 will. Can Bob or someone confirm this?



BOB has posted numerous - LONG DETAILED ANSWERS.


----------



## Big Tex

Rud,


My bad. I should have been more specific. My display device is a Sony Pearl Projector in my HT room. I'm using a HDMI connection from my AVM 50 to the pearl. This seems to work fine. I'm outputing 1080P/60. I couldn't get 1080/24 to work. It kept freezing. I haven't tried 24p since I upgraded to 1.11c.


Like most of everyone else my issues are on the input side. I'm still very curious if I'm better off sending 1080P HD DVD signals via HDMI to the AVM 50 or should I send 1080i via component like I'm doing today. If the answer is 1080P via HDMI then I think I'm going to buy a PS3.


In summary do I l lose anything sending a 1080i feed instead of a 1080P feed? What's the difference? What's the best feed for the best picture???


One other benefit to the PS3 is the sound...


Thx!!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rud,
> 
> 
> My bad. I should have been more specific. My display device is a Sony Pearl Projector in my HT room. I'm using a HDMI connection from my AVM 50 to the pearl. This seems to work fine. I'm outputing 1080P/60. I couldn't get 1080/24 to work. It kept freezing. I haven't tried 24p since I upgraded to 1.11c.
> 
> 
> Like most of everyone else my issues are on the input side. I'm still very curious if I'm better off sending 1080P HD DVD signals via HDMI to the AVM 50 or should I send 1080i via component like I'm doing today. If the answer is 1080P via HDMI then I think I'm going to buy a PS3.
> 
> 
> In summary do I l lose anything sending a 1080i feed instead of a 1080P feed? What's the difference? What's the best feed for the best picture???
> 
> 
> One other benefit to the PS3 is the sound...
> 
> 
> Thx!!!!!



The short answer is really the only useful answer: There is NO DIFFERENCE in quality between the 1080p signal and the 1080i signal from such discs when fed to a display that accepts either and displays both at 1080p UNLESS there is a bug in the way the 1080i is "interlaced" from the 1080p on disc or a bug in the way the 1080p is "de-interlaced" from the 1080i signal.


With proper interlacing and de-interlacing, both signals contain precisely the same information.


That said, many devices (not just players) have been known to screw up one or the other of these processes. And for some of these disc players, the 1080p output signal is not the pure signal off disc, but rather the player interlaces it to 1080i and then de-interlaces it again before output. I don't happen to know how the XBOX produces its 1080p output or whether it has any problems here.


Meanwhile, the Anthem DOES generate proper 1080p from proper 1080i.


I also don't know what your projector might do differently when fed VGA as opposed to Component or HDMI. But one VERY LIKELY possibility is that the VGA input is set up expecting computer input (Extended RGB) instead of home theater style input (Studio RGB), which means you will have to adjust black and white levels differently and, even having done that, you may still be left with different imaging.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> First of all, sorry for the double post, but someone suggested that I will get my answer quicker by posting in this thread.
> 
> 
> Just got a D2. The unit has a DVD player attached via component, and a Satellite box hooked up via component. I have both set to output 480i (for temporary reasons not important for this discussion).
> 
> 
> The D2 occassionally sees the DVD player and outputs the signal. Only a specific turn on order accomplishes this (and I can't remember which sequence.) Most of the time, the D2 says no video signal, outputs a blue screen, but I hear the digital audio fine from both the satellite STB and the DVD player.
> 
> 
> The OSD looks fine, so I know the front projector is seeing an appropriate signal from the D2.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on how to force the D2 to see the 480i component signal, lock onto it, and output it to my projector? When it is showing the signal, the front panel says DVD1 480i. When it doesn't show the signal, the front display just has Dolby Digital and the volume setting.



I suspect there is something simple going on here, but nothing immediately jumps out at me so lets go through the basics:


* What video output cabling and resolution are you using? If Component, are you sure you have the Component output cables plugged into the Main path Component output and not the Zone2 Component output?


* When using the Anthem remote, realize that the buttons along the TOP of the remote select which device the remote is controlling, and not which device you are watching and listening to. To select a device to watch or listen to you need to use the buttons along the BOTTOM of the remote. The Anthem itself is like 3 different devices that can be separately controlled: Main Path, Zone 2 Path, and Zone 3 Path. It is easy to hit the Z2 or Z3 button in the green outlined section at the top of the remote, after which the Anthem won't appear to respond correctly. To be sure you are controlling the Main Path of the Anthem with its remote, just press the Main button in that set of three.


* The Anthem provides "overlayed" inputs. These are separately selectable inputs, each of which can have its own Anthem settings, that happen to all reside under one button on the bottom of the remote. If you hit the DVD button on the bottom of the remote more than once, for example, you will cycle between the various DVD overlayed inputs. This can be confusing if you have not ''disabled" any inputs you don't actually happen to have set up for use. All of the overlayed inputs can be set up in the Anthem's Setup / "Source Setup/Presets" menu. The overlayed inputs (DVD2, etc.) have an additional entry at the top of their settings named SAME AS which can be set to "disabled" if you don't want to use that overlayed input. You should go into that menu and "disable" any overlayed inputs you don't want to use at the moment.


* For the inputs you DO want to use, you need to be aware that selecting Component video as the video source for that input requires TWO entries in its Setup / Source Setup menu. First, on the Component Video In line, specify which set of Component jacks you want to use. Second, on the Scaler Input line, specify that you want Component video to be the video sent to the Scaler for processing and output on the Main Path outputs. The reason you need to do this is that when you select that input device, UNprocessed video from one set of cabling can be sent to the Anthem's outputs (to drive a second display) while PROCESSED input from a different set of cabling goes to the Main Path output to your primary display.


* In the Setup / Video Output menu, select PREFERRED = Component or HDMI according to which type of cabling you are using to your display.


OK, now think through all that, make any adjustments you need to make, and try your Component 480i source devices again. If things are working properly now, then fine. If not let's continue.


-------------------------------------------------------------------


If the above didn't fix things for you then we need to dig deeper.


* Some Component source devices have both a menu entry AND a physical switch (usually back near the jacks) that BOTH have to be set to select between 480i and 480p output. Double check how your source devices are set.


* Some Component source devices such as combo DVD/VCR players have Component outputs that are only ever active for a certain type of use. For example, the Component output on combo DVD/VCR players will typically ONLY have video output if you are running the DVD side of the combo. Double check how you are using your device. [EDITED TO ADD: Some HDMI source devices disable their Component video outputs if an HDMI cable is connected to them. Try disconnecting the HDMI cable and see if that restores proper Component video operation.]


* If you are trying to send HDMI 480i to your display, be aware that quite a few displays won't accept that. The lowest they will go is HDMI 480p.


* If you are trying to send HDMI 1080i or 1080p to your display, be aware that the Anthem V1.1x software has a bug which causes its video processing to fail for a small percentage of users when inputs or outputs are set to 1080i or 1080p. This can ALSO be triggered if ANY input device has been set to 1080i since the last time the Anthem was power cycled. Once the bug is triggered, ALL inputs are screwed up even if you change resolutions for all inputs. Anthem tech support has trial software that should fix this (software version V1.11c). To test if this is your problem, set all inputs to 720p or below, set the video output to 720p or below, and THEN power cycle the Anthem and see if your problem goes away.


That's all I can think of at the moment. Let's try this stuff and see where we end up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question, I couldn't find this in earlier posts (but could have missed it).
> 
> 
> Will the D2's custom scaling work with an HD signal?
> 
> 
> This was being discussed in the 2:35 CIH forum here, as folks were wondering what scalers will allow you to vertically stretch/expand an HD signal so they can then horizontally stretch with their anamorphic lenses. It appears that many scalers won't do this, but I am thinking that the D2 will. Can Bob or someone confirm this?



The D2 and AVM-50 will do this. Use CROP INPUT = CUSTOM in the Video Source Adjust menu to set a 2.35 frame (or whatever) around the movie embedded in the 1.78 (16:9) or 1.33 (4:3) source video input. Then use SCALE OUT = ANAMORPHIC to uniformly stretch that cropped image to your chosen output horizontal x vertical resolution. The result will be that your 2.35 movie is stretched uniformly in the vertical direction to fill the output frame.


You can also shift the centering of the crop as necessary to include subtitles that happen to be displayed below the image.

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex

Bob,


Thanks for the detailed info! That was very comforting and helpful!


The Xbox HD DVD player can only broadcast in 1080i over component. So I imagine it takes the 1080P converts it to 1080i and sends it to the Anthem which converts it back to 1080P. Hopefully along the way the Anthem cleans it up and beautifies it. Sounds goofy but we all get the point. I feel much better about my Xbox than before. I wasn't sure if I was sacrificing quality at 1080i, I didn't realize 1080i contained the exact same data. I assume the broadcast of the data is what separates the i from the P.


For now I'm going to stick with component 1080i out from the DVD player. VGA is to much of a nightmare.


I'm still waiting for someone to speak up and say that the PS3 changed their life and I should run out and buy one. I still feel I have this gap in my system. The picture is wonderful, the sound is ok. The Xbox audio comes out of an old school toslink and it doesn't sound that great.


Thx everyone for all the assistance....


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tex,

For film based content (as is coming off the discs), 1080i is just a different ordering of the same data that's found in 1080p. 1080p has all the lines of video in normal order and 1080i has all the odd lines followed by all the even lines. The 1080i signal "starts over" twice as fast as the 1080p signal so they both give you a complete image in the same amount of time. 1080i just takes two "passes" to do it.


Now I'm glossing over important details, but that should make you feel there's less magic going on here.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I have a PS3 hooked up to my D2 and it is fine for blu-ray, in fact it got better reviews then most stand alone players. Personally I wouldn't spend any more then that for a blu-ray player until things settle down. I found all the first generation stand alone players lacking in one way or another especially when you factor in price. PS3 makes a great stopgap player until the second generation blu-ray players or better yet combo players hit the street. Oh yea R:fom looks great through the D2.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> SACD is beloved by some audiophiles but apparently insignificant to the rest of the world...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nick told me he did asked Oppo if they can make 1080i-out automatic when playing DVD-A/SACD... maybe in next beta... and the HDMI Auto-PCM setting was also the idea of Anthem...



The latest Oppo beta which as been out for a couple of months now supports multi-channel DVD-A and SACD playback at 480i. Unfortunately they still haven't got gapless playback of DVD-A going At least that is the case on the Beatles - Love DVD-A. SACD does seem to be gapless.


As far as DSD over HDMI (1.2/1.3) I know of no players that output DSD over HDMI. Even Sony with the HDMI 1.3 equipped PS3 are doing a conversion to PCM.


----------



## PaulF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158*:
> 
> 
> Paul, are you saying that the HDMI stability is better with the VP50 in the mix as opposed to using the D2 to switch HDMI?



Lars,


Not at all. Just saying that the option is there and the combined functionality (as announced by competitors) may provide some additional flexibility. For the record my preference would be to use a single device like the D2 as long as it provides all the functionality I desire. It provides the simplest video chain.


Source > D2 > Display.


However you could do this:


Source > Receiver (HDMI switch) > External VP > Display


As I have already mentioned the Yamaha RXV-2700 is one such receiver. There are others but the Yammy is Simplay certified. You could pair this with any HDMI enabled external VP. These new "level 6" receivers allow a full 7.1 LPCM as well as DSD bitsream to be sent over the HDMI link.


Another option is this:


Source > External VP > Display

.............................> Receiver or Pre/Pro


In this case you have no extra elements in the video chain. The external VP will send audio to the receiver. Today the VP50 does this over S/PDIF (no good for multi-channel LPCM) but the announced Lumagen Radiance XP provides a second HDMI out for audio to a receiver. Or it can be used for a second display which is preferable to Component when using HDMI sources as HDCP won't get in the way.


Personally, I'm rooting for Anthem to add the few features I'm looking for.


Paul


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The latest Oppo beta which as been out for a couple of months now supports multi-channel DVD-A and SACD playback at 480i. Unfortunately they still haven't got gapless playback of DVD-A going At least that is the case on the Beatles - Love DVD-A. SACD does seem to be gapless.
> 
> 
> As far as DSD over HDMI (1.2/1.3) I know of no players that output DSD over HDMI. Even Sony with the HDMI 1.3 equipped PS3 are doing a conversion to PCM.



Tom! That's amazing!


So they've implemented the pixel replication in the HDMI video stream to regain the needed bandwidth in the audiio stream at HDMI 480i and 480p?


If so, they are the FIRST HDMI source device I know of that has done this for DVD-Audio and SACD.


And what's more, I'm equally impressed the Anthem handles that as input without problems!


=================================


EDITED TO ADD: Are you certain they have done this without reducing audio bandwidth? That is, do you get the full bandwidth of the full set of audio channels at 480i or did they simply cut back the bandwidth to allow multiple channels at 480i instead of just 2 channels?

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Bob - I was very surprised too as I just stumbled across it and hadn't seen anyone else mention it.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I suspect there is something simple going on here, but nothing immediately jumps out at me so lets go through the basics:
> 
> 
> * What video output cabling and resolution are you using? If Component, are you sure you have the Component output cables plugged into the Main path Component output and not the Zone2 Component output?
> 
> 
> * When using the Anthem remote, realize that the buttons along the TOP of the remote select which device the remote is controlling, and not which device you are watching and listening to. To select a device to watch or listen to you need to use the buttons along the BOTTOM of the remote. The Anthem itself is like 3 different devices that can be separately controlled: Main Path, Zone 2 Path, and Zone 3 Path. It is easy to hit the Z2 or Z3 button in the green outlined section at the top of the remote, after which the Anthem won't appear to respond correctly. To be sure you are controlling the Main Path of the Anthem with its remote, just press the Main button in that set of three.
> 
> 
> * The Anthem provides "overlayed" inputs. These are separately selectable inputs, each of which can have its own Anthem settings, that happen to all reside under one button on the bottom of the remote. If you hit the DVD button on the bottom of the remote more than once, for example, you will cycle between the various DVD overlayed inputs. This can be confusing if you have not ''disabled" any inputs you don't actually happen to have set up for use. All of the overlayed inputs can be set up in the Anthem's Setup / "Source Setup/Presets" menu. The overlayed inputs (DVD2, etc.) have an additional entry at the top of their settings named SAME AS which can be set to "disabled" if you don't want to use that overlayed input. You should go into that menu and "disable" any overlayed inputs you don't want to use at the moment.
> 
> 
> * For the inputs you DO want to use, you need to be aware that selecting Component video as the video source for that input requires TWO entries in its Setup / Source Setup menu. First, on the Component Video In line, specify which set of Component jacks you want to use. Second, on the Scaler Input line, specify that you want Component video to be the video sent to the Scaler for processing and output on the Main Path outputs. The reason you need to do this is that when you select that input device, UNprocessed video from one set of cabling can be sent to the Anthem's outputs (to drive a second display) while PROCESSED input from a different set of cabling goes to the Main Path output to your primary display.
> 
> 
> * In the Setup / Video Output menu, select PREFERRED = Component or HDMI according to which type of cabling you are using to your display.
> 
> 
> OK, now think through all that, make any adjustments you need to make, and try your Component 480i source devices again. If things are working properly now, then fine. If not let's continue.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If the above didn't fix things for you then we need to dig deeper.
> 
> 
> * Some Component source devices have both a menu entry AND a physical switch (usually back near the jacks) that BOTH have to be set to select between 480i and 480p output. Double check how your source devices are set.
> 
> 
> * Some Component source devices such as combo DVD/VCR players have Component outputs that are only ever active for a certain type of use. For example, the Component output on combo DVD/VCR players will typically ONLY have video output if you are running the DVD side of the combo. Double check how you are using your device. [EDITED TO ADD: Some HDMI source devices disable their Component video outputs if an HDMI cable is connected to them. Try disconnecting the HDMI cable and see if that restores proper Component video operation.]
> 
> 
> * If you are trying to send HDMI 480i to your display, be aware that quite a few displays won't accept that. The lowest they will go is HDMI 480p.
> 
> 
> * If you are trying to send HDMI 1080i or 1080p to your display, be aware that the Anthem V1.1x software has a bug which causes its video processing to fail for a small percentage of users when inputs or outputs are set to 1080i or 1080p. This can ALSO be triggered if ANY input device has been set to 1080i since the last time the Anthem was power cycled. Once the bug is triggered, ALL inputs are screwed up even if you change resolutions for all inputs. Anthem tech support has trial software that should fix this (software version V1.11c). To test if this is your problem, set all inputs to 720p or below, set the video output to 720p or below, and THEN power cycle the Anthem and see if your problem goes away.
> 
> 
> That's all I can think of at the moment. Let's try this stuff and see where we end up.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Wow! Thanks for the help. Quite impressive to say the least. I went through all of your suggestions without success. I did find out a few things, however:


1.) The order required to get the Anthem to see the component in is the Anthem has to first be turned on. THEN the DVD player has to be turned on. If I switch to another source on the Anthem and then go back to the DVD, it again doesn't see the signal.


2.) If the DVD player is on before the Anthem, it will not see the component source. BTW, it is a Pioneer Elite DV-09 interlaced DVD player.


3.) The DVD component signal is seen by the Anthem (on the video info menu) as:

The Front Display will read: DVD1 Digital MAIN

AL-Cinema 480i

If you hold in the On Screen button, you see:

Component 4:4:4

Signal Type 1440x480i / 59.94Hz


If you change inputs and change back, the Front Display changes to:

DVD1 Digital MAIN

-35.0dB

and a blue screen appears. If you hold in the On Screen button, you see:

Component 4:4:4

Signal Type: 0x0i / 0Hz



I also tried hooking up the DVD player to the Anthem via S-Video with the Aux inputs. When hooked up this way, the Anthem saw the DVD player irregardless if you changed inputs and went back to it, turned it off and on, order of powering up, etc.


So it appears that it is a sync/signal sensing issue with the Component inputs.


So, what am I missing to have the Anthem see my DVD player?

It also doesn't see my Zenith DTV-1080 HDTV STB. I have that set for 480i and outputting via the component outputs. Since that unit never stops outputting video, even when you turn it off (it outputs a black screen), it never sees that unit's signal. I haven't tried unplugging it yet and plugging it in after the Anthem is on, but that's the next step.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

zzzzdoc,

Hmm, I think you may need to work this with Anthem tech support.


I've used that DV-09 player and it is indeed a bit funky in its Component output signal. It doesn't pass Blacker than Black data for example. There may be a setting in the Picture / Video ADC section of the Video Source Adjust menu that will help here, but frankly I'm not up to speed enoough on what those adjustments do to offer useful suggestions. I would not expect the Anthem to see no signal to sync with at all however.


The 1440 x 480i the Anthem reports as input when you have a picture is suspicious. It should be 720 x 480i.


The fact that you are also seeing this at Component 480i from your set top box leads me to believe your Anthem video board may have a problem.


--------------------------------------------------------------


Again, what cabling and output video resolution are you using to get video from the Anthem to your display?

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> zzzzdoc,
> 
> Hmm, I think you may need to work this with Anthem tech support.
> 
> 
> I've used that DV-09 player and it is indeed a bit funky in its Component output signal. It doesn't pass Blacker than Black data for example. There may be a setting in the Picture / Video ADC section of the Video Source Adjust menu that will help here, but frankly I'm not up to speed enoough on what those adjustments do to offer useful suggestions. I would not expect the Anthem to see no signal to sync with at all however.
> 
> 
> The 1440 x 480i the Anthem reports as input when you have a picture is suspicious. It should be 720 x 480i.
> 
> 
> The fact that you are also seeing this at Component 480i from your set top box leads me to believe your Anthem video board may have a problem.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Again, what cabling and output video resolution are you using to get video from the Anthem to your display?
> 
> --Bob



I'm using component cabling, and 480i video resolution to my display.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm using component cabling, and 480i video resolution to my display.



Go to the Video Source Adjust / Info panel (press and hold the "7" key until this menu displays) and record what it shows for both input and output when you have a picture and when you have no picture. It is possible that the info in there may be different from what you get on the status display from repeatedly pressing the Select key.

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Go to the Video Source Adjust / Info panel (press and hold the "7" key until this menu displays) and record what it shows for both input and output when you have a picture and when you have no picture. It is possible that the info in there may be different from what you get on the status display from repeatedly pressing the Select key.
> 
> --Bob


*When I have a picture:*
Input Status:

Video Source: Component 4:4:4

Signal Type: 1440x480i/59.94Hz

Audio Source: NA

Film Mode: Off


Output Status:

Signal Type: 720 x 487i / 59.94 Hz

Frame Rate: 59.94 Hz

Line Rate: 15734.26 Hz

Frame Lock: Inactive


*When I am getting no signal:*
Input Status:

Video Source: Component 4:4:4

Signal Type: 0 x 0i / 0 Hz

Audio Source: NA

Film Mode: Off



Output Status:

Signal Type: 720 x 487i / 59.94 Hz

Frame Rate: 59.94 Hz

Line Rate: 15734.26 Hz

Frame Lock: Inactive


----------



## Bob Pariseau

zzzzdoc,

The 720 x 487i for output also is odd. I would expect 720 x 480i.


-----------------------------------------


I think it makes sense to do the experiment you had in mind for the satellite box (unplug it and then power it up again to see if you get a picture). Also try to make sure it is on a standard def channel so that there isn't an issue of whether it is willing to scale HDTV down to 480i for you or not.


With that last bit of info in hand, it would probably be best to get in touch with Anthem tech support directly and see what they suggest.

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> zzzzdoc,
> 
> The 720 x 487i for output also is odd. I would expect 720 x 480i.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I think it makes sense to do the experiment you had in mind for the satellite box (unplug it and then power it up again to see if you get a picture). Also try to make sure it is on a standard def channel so that there isn't an issue of whether it is willing to scale HDTV down to 480i for you or not.
> 
> 
> With that last bit of info in hand, it would probably be best to get in touch with Anthem tech support directly and see what they suggest.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I've called a couple of times this afternoon. Waiting for the callback.


I'll let you know what the Sat STB test shows, just for completion. I appreciate all the in-depth help.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 and AVM-50 will do this. Use CROP INPUT = CUSTOM in the Video Source Adjust menu to set a 2.35 frame (or whatever) around the movie embedded in the 1.78 (16:9) or 1.33 (4:3) source video input. Then use SCALE OUT = ANAMORPHIC to uniformly stretch that cropped image to your chosen output horizontal x vertical resolution. The result will be that your 2.35 movie is stretched uniformly in the vertical direction to fill the output frame.
> 
> 
> You can also shift the centering of the crop as necessary to include subtitles that happen to be displayed below the image.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks for the cordial and as usual very thorough answer. That confirms (and then some) what I thought was true. Someone in another thread had me doubting my knowledge of this. I'm also glad you threw in the comment on shifting the centering of the crop, that's very good to know. Keep up the good work!


----------



## Roomraider

Just got an e-mail from Nick @ Anthem with another firmware release v1.11d.



Hi Frank,


Latest attached, containing changes to input switching. One of the changes addresses HTPC, although not the same setup as yours - regardless, it might provide an improvement with any luck.


Best Regards,

Nick


----------



## drlopezmdfacc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also...having a major problem getting my Oppo 970HD to play an SACD via the D2--all I hear is a scrambled gibberish while the info button tells me that the D2 is receiving a 1080i, 5.1 signal at 88.2 khz. Tried turning HDMI Repeater on/off and tried a different HDMI input to no avail. Called Oppo--settings are correct on the player (latest firmware is installed) and they have no knowledge of any one having a problem. Is this somehow related to my DSP problem I referenced above? I have version 1.11 of the D2--does someone have a link to whatever the latest version is? Calling Anthem tomorrow as they are now closed for the day.



Turns out I had a bad unit delivered to me from Amazon. The unit I received from Oppo works just fine and delivers GREAT multichannel SACD and DVD-Audio via HDMI. If everything is upsampled to 192 Khz by the D2 then why does DVD-Audio at 96 Khz into the D2 sound remarkably better than SACD at 88.2Khz? Is this just a subjective difference I noted between the two discs I just listened to or is DVD-A "better" than SACD or is there a difference in the way the D2 processes DVD-A vs SACD?


----------



## mr_fitz

Reading the last few pages of text, I noticed someone bring up the new gennum chip and the possibility of mosquito noise reduction. Does the D2 do MNR? About a day away from ordering my D2










Fitzy


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Ok, I'm officially brain dead!!!!!! There is too much data on this site.*
> 
> 
> I've spent the past three hours trying to determine if my Xbox 360 HD DVD 1080i component picture (connection) to my AVM 50 is as good as a native 1080P picture (VGA Connection) connected directly to my Sony Pearl. *Basically I'm curious if anyone can explain to me how my AVM 50 can take the 1080i HD DVD over component and make it look as good if not better than the native 1080P master on the disk. Can it?* _ Is it possible???? Right now I have the Xbox DVD player hooked up via component which I assume down revs the 1080P to 1080i. I assume I'm losing picture quality since the AVM converted to 1080P can't match the natural 1080P. Do I have this all wrong? I have the option to hook it up via VGA to get 1080P. Unfortunately the AVM 50 doesn't accept VGA.
> 
> 
> Quick note. When Anthem upgraded to the latest code (1.11) they forgot to test 1080i via component. *Oops!!!!* I had to call and get a beta sample of code to fix it. The new code is 1.11c and 1080i over component now works.
> 
> 
> Lastly I'm thinking of buying a PS3 for the Blue Ray player. Will the native 1080P connection via HDMI allow the Gennum to deinterlace the picture? What's the best way to hook up the PS3 to the AVM 50? Does anyone own a PS3? Impressions? Is Blue Ray better than HD DVD? I will say the Xbox sound isn't the greatest.
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the help! Because of all you super smart geeks I purchased an AVM 50 and I love it. Thanks and please help this nerd want to be again!!!!
> 
> 
> Big Tex
> _


_



Is the hd information encoded onto hddvd and blueRay in 1080i or 1080p?


I have used limited demo material, but I believe the picture thus far to be superior with hddvd. I believe (and correct me if I am wrong) the BD players are using mpeg 2 compression which still does not look spectacular. I have seen a great deal more noise in the picture in the BD movies than in HDDVD._


----------



## DrJRapp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have seen a great deal more noise in the picture in the BD movies than in HDDVD.



I thought it was just me!


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have used limited demo material, but I believe the picture thus far to be superior with hddvd. I believe (and correct me if I am wrong) the BD players are using mpeg 2 compression which still does not look spectacular. I have seen a great deal more noise in the picture in the BD movies than in HDDVD.



The debate over this is epic, to say the least. Consensus of those who have both seems to be that the quality of the digital transfer process determines whether the resulting DVD (HD or BD) is great or crap, and that a good transfer will produce an equally good result on either HD or BD. Inversely, a lousy transfer produces a lousy DVD, which was the major problem with initial BD releases.


In the spirit of full disclosure, I am repeating what others in this forum have reported. I have only HD at the moment, with Pio BD on order.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is the hd information encoded onto hddvd and blueRay in 1080i or 1080p?
> 
> 
> I have used limited demo material, but I believe the picture thus far to be superior with hddvd. I believe (and correct me if I am wrong) the BD players are using mpeg 2 compression which still does not look spectacular. I have seen a great deal more noise in the picture in the BD movies than in HDDVD.



They are both encoded in 1080p24. The issue with noise is not related to the Blu-Ray vs HD DVD formats. It is more related to the encoding itself. Mpeg encoding used on lots of the Blu-Ray will show more noise than a VC1 encoding in either Blu-Ray or HD DVD.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> They are both encoded in 1080p24. The issue with noise is not related to the Blu-Ray vs HD DVD formats. It is more related to the encoding itself. Mpeg encoding used on lots of the Blu-Ray will show more noise than a VC1 encoding in either Blu-Ray or HD DVD.



Tolstoi is CORRECT.


Some of the Movie Studios for Blu-Ray like to call it

reproducing the FILM GRAIN







of the source material.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Turns out I had a bad unit delivered to me from Amazon. The unit I received from Oppo works just fine and delivers GREAT multichannel SACD and DVD-Audio via HDMI. If everything is upsampled to 192 Khz by the D2 then why does DVD-Audio at 96 Khz into the D2 sound remarkably better than SACD at 88.2Khz? Is this just a subjective difference I noted between the two discs I just listened to or is DVD-A "better" than SACD or is there a difference in the way the D2 processes DVD-A vs SACD?



So it was just a faulty Oppo? Interesting.


Although there are purists who favor one over the other, DVD-Audiio and SACD really are pretty much identical in what they can deliver. Odds are any differences you are hearing are just due to the quality of the performance.


I haven't looked for this, but there's probably a forum here where folks debate the quality of different DVD-Audio and SACD performances and transfers to disc. You can likely find some "reference" titles you can use if you want to hear for yourself what different folks think represents the best of each format.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Reading the last few pages of text, I noticed someone bring up the new gennum chip and the possibility of mosquito noise reduction. Does the D2 do MNR? About a day away from ordering my D2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitzy



The Gennum stuff used in the D2 does indeed include noise reduction, but the one significant criticism of the video processing in the D2 is that its noise reduction is only about half as effective as the "best" noise reduction out there right now. The top end REALTA stuff such as is found in the Denon 5910ci DVD player for example, probably gets the best marks. There are also standalone video processors that specialize in this stuff.


The new Gennum chip -- not available yet -- is supposed to tackle this. I've no idea whether Anthem will switch to that or use some other, presumably better, chip for future products.


Personally, I leave the noise reduction stuff turned OFF in my D2. I'm not actually all that fond of ANY noise reduction from any product. There's no free lunch with this stuff. You can't really eliminate damage that's already in the video stream. All you can do is try to hide it without doing further damage. But its almost impossible to avoid visible softening of the image if the noise reduction is "effective".


For standard DVDs, I leave a minimimal amount of noise reduction turned on in my Pioneer Elite 59avi DVD player.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tolstoi is CORRECT.
> 
> 
> Some of the Movie Studios for Blu-Ray like to call it
> 
> reproducing the FILM GRAIN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the source material.



And with the usage of AVC as a codec to replace MPeg2 encoding by the recent Sony release, there is a lot less Film Grain.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And with the usage of AVC as a codec to replace MPeg2 encoding by the recent Sony release, there is a lot less Film Grain.



Yes all the newer releases seem to be better.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The various video codecs for HD-DVD and Blu-Ray (all of them) are just as subject to abuse as the MPEG2 used for standard DVD.


Quality differences are almost always in the transfer creation process. Some of the earliest Blu-Ray titles are, reportedly, worse than their standard DVD equivalents.


That said, some of the first generation Blu-Ray players were really godawful. It is beyond me what Samsung was thinking with their first player.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,



> Quote:
> That said, some of the first generation Blu-Ray players were really godawful. It is beyond me what Samsung was thinking with their first player.



Actually Bob the Samsung was the only first gen. Blu-ray player with significant issues. I have the Panasonic and it does not suffer from the problems associated with the likes of the Samsung with the original firmware.


With respect to film grain, it is not something that can be solely attributable to mpeg 2 compression. I have several discs in my collection that use mpeg that look superb. Film grain is often inherent in the original master and in many instances is intentional.


I agree that mpeg 4 (AVC) is a superior codec however mpeg 2 is not what I would call inferior.



Regards,


----------



## BillW

I agree that mpeg 4 (AVC) is a superior codec however mpeg 2 is not what I would call inferior.



If mpeg4 is superior than mpeg2 has to be inferior


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree that mpeg 4 (AVC) is a superior codec however mpeg 2 is not what I would call inferior.
> 
> 
> 
> If mpeg4 is superior than mpeg2 has to be inferior



Greetings,


Got me there Bill !







Actually what I was saying is that in general mpeg 2 is not inferior as a codec. When compared to mpeg 4 (AVC) it is the weaker of the two in some respects.


Regards,


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree that mpeg 4 (AVC) is a superior codec however mpeg 2 is not what I would call inferior.
> 
> 
> 
> If mpeg4 is superior than mpeg2 has to be inferior


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Got me there Bill !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually what I was saying is that in general mpeg 2 is not inferior as a codec. When compared to mpeg 4 (AVC) it is the weaker of the two in some respects.
> 
> 
> Regards,



I guess, with time, the compressionist will be able to pick the codec he chose not based on political issues but instead based on the film he is working on. All the codecs are probably better on some type of film or film grain and the compressionist will just pick the best suited for the task.


----------



## LEVESQUE

Another great review for the AVM50 here (I don't know if that one was already posted...).









http://www.hometheatersound.com/equi...them_avm50.htm 


I really like that part:


''To compare the AVM 50 to any other processor would require a substantial wait. Pixel Magic's Crystalio II has the same Gennum video processor but not nearly as many features or capabilities, including surround-sound processing, and it costs more than $1000 more. Companies such as Outlaw sell processors that costs thousands less than the AVM 50, and while you do get good performance from their products, the Anthem AVM 50's sound quality and abundance of features, as well as the flexibility it offers in letting the user tweak each source setup, clearly set it apart. And that was before Anthem added the Gennum processing chip''


----------



## maclarenjc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I've called a couple of times this afternoon. Waiting for the callback.
> 
> 
> I'll let you know what the Sat STB test shows, just for completion. I appreciate all the in-depth help.



Any update from Anthem zzzzDoc? I have been having a similar issue with my Integra DPC 8.5 DVD player via component 480i into AVM50.


What usually works for me is to hit the Stop button on the DVD remote to get the Integra splash screen to appear then the AVM50 is able to lock onto the signal again then when I start the movie again its usually fine but sometimes it will lose sync in the middle of the movie and have to repeat that step again.


When I called tech support they seemed to think it was related to the 1080i input/output issue so I had changed my output to display to 720p but still experienced the symptom. So I am now waiting for the dust to settle on the 1.11d firmware upgrade then I will try applying that but I would be curious to hear what support said in your case as well.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OBIE_FL reported recently that the latest beta firmware from Oppo for the Oppo 970 player allows playback of full bandwidth, multi-channel, DVD-Audo and SACD over HDMI to the Anthems at HDMI 480i and HDMI 480p. I.e., without having to temporarily raise the Oppo's video output resolution to 720p or 1080i while playing DVD-Audio or SACD. Prior Oppo software reverted the HDMI audio output to full bandwidth but 2-channel output if the video output resolution was left at 480i or 480p.


This new functionality is so unexpected -- both that the Oppo does it *AND* that the Anthem can receive it without problems -- that I'd appreciate it if someone else can confirm. As I mentioned in my earlier response to OBIE_FL, I think this may be the FIRST HDMI source device that does this for DVD-Audio and SACD.


In particular, I'd like to get confirmation that the multi-channel PCM being received by the Anthem is actually full bandwidth, and that the Oppo hasn't achieved this simply by cutting down the bandwidth to send multi-channel audio instead of what it used to do of sending full bandwidth but only 2-channel.


If anyone else with the Oppo 970 and the latest Oppo beta software can test and confirm this for DVD-Audio and SACD playback at HDMI 480i, I'd appreciate it.


Thanks!


[Technical note: There's a known way to achieve this in the HDMI spec by artificially boosting up the video output bandwidth via "pixel replication". In fact pixel replication is also needed to make HDMI 480i work. The 480i signal is pixel replicated to use the bandwidth of 480p. This is one of the reasons HDMI 480i support is missing in some devices. But I've not heard of ANY source devices going beyond that to enable the audio bandwidth needed for DVD-Audio and SACD, and I'd be surprised if any receiver or pre/pro -- even the Anthems -- was tested for that as input.]

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Bob, I have both and will install the lastest firmware for the Oppo this afternoon and report back.



Regards,


----------



## ensmarcum

Alright, I have a question and require some input.


Problem 1: When I turn the volume up on the d2 without a source input, ie nothing on but the amp and d2, i hear noise, how can I get rid of that noise? Better power cords? is it a grounding problem? Should I just plug into the wall and not into the monster power center 3600 mk2? I have a 20 amp hospital grade outlet but the monster is 15 amps, should i just use the outlet?


Problem 2: I want to get new speaker cables. I am looking at getting audioquest to stick to one company, because that is what I am using for my interconnects. Would it be more prudent to upgrade interconnects or speaker wire? I have the copperhead interconnects on fronts and sidewinder for the rest(7.2 system). The speaker wire I have now is a mix match of generic radio shack 16ga for the sides, and monster mis-match for the rears, and I have monster for the fronts(biwired) and the center. My sub cables are going to be the audioquest sub-x's.


So what do you all think? Thanks for any input. Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ensmarcum,

If the noise you hear sounds like 60Hz hum, then the odds are you have a "ground loop". Electrical power -- usually wall power interference -- is travelling between your devices along the ground shields of the cables connecting them. Eventually it exits via a power plug -- usually the 3rd prong of some device with a 3-prong plug. Along the way it plays havoc with your electronics.


[NOTE: Some of the very first production D2's had a noise problem, but it's been a long time since anyone reported anything but total silence -- a very low noise floor -- from these.]


Do this first: Disconnect any cable TV or satellite TV feed line from your system and see if the noise goes away. These are the most common source of such problems, and if that's where the noise is coming from then there are relatively easy ways to fix it. The ground loop power is entering via the shield of that cable because the cable is not properly grounded at the point where it enters your house, or the cable shields are not properly connected to that grounding.


Another common source of ground interference is lamp dimmer switches. Turn all dimmers in the house completely off. If the noise goes away, turn them on one at a time until you find the offending switch.


If that doesn't fix the problem then do this: Disconnect ALL inputs from the D2. Leave the speaker outputs connected. See if the noise still exists. If it is gone, then re-connect inputs one by one until you find the problem device.


If the noise is still there, then you may have a ground loop between your D2 and the amp (including the amp in the subwoofer). Temporarily try a "cheater" plug -- a 3-prong to 2-prong plug adapter -- WITHOUT connecting the loose "ground" wire on the 2-prong side. You may also have to try both ways of inserting the resulting 2-prong plugs in the power outlet.


Also try running with just the subwoofer connected and then just the amp connected. You are looking for the minimum combo of hardware that generates the noise.


If you can't isolate the noise this way (which would be quite uncommon), you may need to work the problem with Anthem tech support just to make sure your D2 does not have an instance of the old noise problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Bob, I have both and will install the lastest firmware for the Oppo this afternoon and report back.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



PLACIDMAN and OBIE_FL,

Thanks! Also, please double check that the Anthem really is receiving 480i or 480p and that the Oppo has not handled this simply by switching to 1080i automatically when playing DVD-Audio or SACD, even though the Oppo was SET to output 480i.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I will double check this weekend as I've been out of town the last two weeks and only got to play with it for a brief time before leaving. I'm pretty certain it stayed in 480i but I will have to be sure and check that it wasn't downrezing the audio. I was hoping another Oppo 970 or 981 owner would chime in and verify my results. I should also reiterate that I have stayed at the 1.10 firmware on the D2 until things smooth out on that front.


----------



## earwit

Well I have been following this thread since April, knowing that one day I would

purchase a D2, which I happily did from my local dealer over Superbowl weekend.

Actually my wife suggested I purchase the D2 before our little Superbowl party.


Within one hour I was able to get the unit going, with no problems, Hdmi worked

without a hitch on my 79Avi, A1, and PS3...Thanks to this thread I had a good

overall understanding of the setup configuration...I do realize I still have alot of fine tuning still to do..

but out of the box the unit impressed the Superbowl crowd.


Until I used the D2 I really looked at a pre/amp/processor more as a switcher/

splitter more then anything else. This all changed with the D2 which truly does

improve both the audio and video.

Audio: The D2 did what was advertised, every source improved thru D2's d/a convertors..Sound was neutral, clean, more analog.


Video: The Gennum scaler has also been nothing short of amazing, improved, Dvd's, Hd-dvd's, BR, and HD broadcasts....


Still I have a few questions:


ZONE 2...I have Hdmi on main output to a projector , connected component cables,

to Zone 2 out, rca to Zone 2 audio out. Going to LCD in another room, able

to get video, but no audio. Need to confirm setting for ZONE 2...


5) Setup/presets

Hdmi settings for a1 and PS3 using Hdmi only ....


Hdmi repeater : no

Audio in: Dig Hdmi

Auto Dig: No??

Hdmi 6 ch map : Auto

Are these correct...??


7.) ADC/Audio Output

2ch Anlg DSP 44.1

6ch ANlg DSP 96..

Are these the optimum setting??


Thanks in advance for this forum and your help..


Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *earwit* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Still I have a few questions:
> 
> 
> ZONE 2...I have Hdmi on main output to a projector , connected component cables,
> 
> to Zone 2 out, rca to Zone 2 audio out. Going to LCD in another room, able
> 
> to get video, but to audio. Need to confirm setting for ZONE 2...
> 
> 
> 5) Setup/presets
> 
> Hdmi settings for a1 and PS3 using Hdmi only ....
> 
> 
> Hdmi repeater : no
> 
> Audio in: Dig Hdmi
> 
> Auto Dig: No??
> 
> Hdmi 6 ch map : Auto
> 
> Are these correct...??
> 
> 
> 7.) ADC/Audio Output
> 
> 2ch Anlg DSP 44.1
> 
> 6ch ANlg DSP 96..
> 
> Are these the optimum setting??
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for this forum and your help..
> 
> 
> Bob



Zone 2 output can either be a duplicate of the processed Main output or it can be a "pass through" of any input. When used as a pass through, you have to have the same style of input connected as you are trying to use for output.


So to get the L/R audio out to Zone 2, you need L/R analog audio INPUT connected for the selected source device *UNLESS* you set Zone2 to "copy" the Main audio path.


If you know you always want Zone 2 to play the same stuff as the Main path you can set this "copying" by default in the Setup / Source Setup menu.


You can also turn this on and off on the fly using the Copy function from the remote.


Copying Main to Zone 2 like this is the only way to get digital audio input to go to the Zone 2 analog audio outputs.


If you want Zone 2 to play DIFFERENT stuff from the Main path, then hook up analog stereo audio inputs from each source device you might want to play through Zone 2 and turn OFF copying of Main to Zone 2. You will be able to select the input device for Main and Zone 2 separately. The Main path will use the audio input type and socket you specify. The Zone 2 path will pass through the analog stereo audio input associated with that input device.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------


Your audio input settings are fine for HDMI audio input.


The Auto Dig setting is used when you want the Anthem to automatically switch from a digital audio input to an analog audio input based on whether or not there is any signal on the digital audio input. This is necessary for some cable TV boxes that don't output digital audio when watching analog TV channels, and can also be useful if you want to use the same Anthem input for two different source devices -- one via digital and one via analog audio.


The mapping function should be left in its default setting unless you have some problem with some DVD-Audio disc playback.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------


The ADC settings should be left in the factory default settings unless you are doing the funky recording to CD burners as described in the manual.

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

what kinds of speaker wire is everyone using? And what amps are you using?


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> PLACIDMAN and OBIE_FL,
> 
> Thanks! Also, please double check that the Anthem really is receiving 480i or 480p and that the Oppo has not handled this simply by switching to 1080i automatically when playing DVD-Audio or SACD, even though the Oppo was SET to output 480i.
> 
> --Bob




Greetings,


With the new Oppo firmware the unit does not output the high rez stream at 480i. It is outputting 6 channel at 48kHz. At 720p or 1080i it will output 6 channel 96kHz. There is no change from the previous version in this regard.


Sorry..


Regards,


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just got an e-mail from Nick @ Anthem with another firmware release v1.11d.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Frank,
> 
> 
> Latest attached, containing changes to input switching. One of the changes addresses HTPC, although not the same setup as yours - regardless, it might provide an improvement with any luck.
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Nick



I found this one quite interesting.



Hi,


Latest beta attached...


- more changes to input switching - too many to list, though latest ones address the PS3 and BDPS1. If connection problems with these sources remain, please find out if the cable being used can reliably carry 1080p *plus multichannel PCM audio* before reporting problem.


- video settings were sometimes lost when switching inputs - fixed


- "Cannot connect OKI boot loader" installation problem appears to be finally fixed, or at least it is with the dozens of computers available to try this version on (including Win 98)


- in the SMPTE test pattern (the colour bars), contrast bars have been added to the big white square but as this was a last minute addition, please ignore it as the levels do not appear to be correct


- if this is the first beta you are receiving, changes from v1.11a to v1.11d primarily addressed problems with 480i/1080i in and out and connection with some set top boxes


Best Regards,

Nick P., Technical Support


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> With the new Oppo firmware the unit does not output the high rez stream at 480i. It is outputting 6 channel at 48kHz. At 720p or 1080i it will output 6 channel 96kHz. There is no change from the previous version in this regard.
> 
> 
> Sorry..
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,

Thanks for checking. I had been under the impression that the prior Oppo software sent 2-channel at 96Khz at 480i.


6-channel at 48Khz is likely more useful to folks, but still -- Oppo can do better.


It would have been nifty if they'd done the pixel repetition stuff, but the odds it would work with more than a handful of AVRs is pretty slim. Auto switching to 1080i is a more likely solution.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Roomraider,

Thanks for posting the update notes on 1.11e. This IS looking pretty interesting!


I wonder whether they've rolled any of this into manufacturing yet? Maybe a real release soon?


I also like the idea that they are looking at additonal ways to improve the built-in test patterns.


Man you couldn't pay me enough to sort out this video connectivity stuff with the current mess of source and display devices out there. I hope customers recognize the difference between companies that take it seriously and companies that only go after the low hanging fruit -- the easy stuff -- and leave other customers frustrated.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> With the new Oppo firmware the unit does not output the high rez stream at 480i. It is outputting 6 channel at 48kHz. At 720p or 1080i it will output 6 channel 96kHz. There is no change from the previous version in this regard.
> 
> 
> Sorry..
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph - Thanks for checking up on this. I was kind of doubting myself as I was in a rush at the time and was just surprised to get multi-channel sound at all with 480i. I didn't even bother to check the audio resolution. I should have kept quiet until I had time to recheck it. At least it is better then the 79AVi where I don't get anything at 480i and it is a lot easier to change resolution on the Oppo. Sorry if I got anyone's hope up.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Roomraider,
> 
> Thanks for posting the update notes on 1.11e. This IS looking pretty interesting!
> 
> 
> I wonder whether they've rolled any of this into manufacturing yet? Maybe a real release soon?
> 
> 
> I also like the idea that they are looking at additonal ways to improve the built-in test patterns.
> 
> 
> Man you couldn't pay me enough to sort out this video connectivity stuff with the current mess of source and display devices out there. I hope customers recognize the difference between companies that take it seriously and companies that only go after the low hanging fruit -- the easy stuff -- and leave other customers frustrated.
> 
> --Bob



I also received 1.11e today. However it still does not output 1080i with my Directv H-10

set to native and all.


dick


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *maclarenjc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any update from Anthem zzzzDoc? I have been having a similar issue with my Integra DPC 8.5 DVD player via component 480i into AVM50.
> 
> 
> What usually works for me is to hit the Stop button on the DVD remote to get the Integra splash screen to appear then the AVM50 is able to lock onto the signal again then when I start the movie again its usually fine but sometimes it will lose sync in the middle of the movie and have to repeat that step again.
> 
> 
> When I called tech support they seemed to think it was related to the 1080i input/output issue so I had changed my output to display to 720p but still experienced the symptom. So I am now waiting for the dust to settle on the 1.11d firmware upgrade then I will try applying that but I would be curious to hear what support said in your case as well.



OK, here's the update. After conversations with Nick from Anthem Tech support, I received and flashed the firmware update v1.11e. Yes e, not d. Evidently hot off the presses today. Update went great, and after it was done, the unit worked like a charm. It now sees my satellite STB at several resolutions via component, and inputs and outputs my DVD player at 480i. All switching no longer causes a loss of input signal. Basically, totally cured.


----------



## Bob Anderson

Well, finally a formal member of the D2 users group. I have completed the installation over the last week of my new D2 with the A5 amp, matched with an Arcam 137 DVD/CD player and HD-PVR. HDMI output is to a Sharp D92U 46" LCD.


I went for the Anthony Gallo 3.1 Reference Mains and Reference center and Surrounds. The audio and video is just delightful. For a sub, I went with a MJ Acoustics 200 which has both LFE and mains feed in to it. This allows me to use the sub on two channel, (set at 40 hz). and then when the LFE is being fed in, at 80 hz.


I have a fair amount of tuning to do and the store that supplied everything but the speakers will be in to do the ISF calibration next week.


I've had a bit of fun/frustration trying to get the Rogers HD-PVR to sync it's 1080i output to the D2 but for some reason, tonight, the PVR is sync'ing very nicely. It may have to do with the cold boot I did to the D2 as I re-ran some new Mains speaker wire tonight.


The competition for watching and listening to the HT has been something else with everyone in the house, (especially the wife), recording all their shows and then demanding time with the set. Oh, well, at least it all has found a nice home!


To split the CD and DVD signals from the Arcam DV137, I output DVD video and sound via the HDMI and for CD, ran RCA from the DV137 to the D2's CD analog input by-passing the D2's digital inputs. I guess I could do that with the multiple DVD selections but wonder if there is any difference in the route I took.


I am sure I will have lots of questions for the group as time goes on but do have one if I may. Should I run Coax for the audio from the DVD player and HD-PVR to the D2 and if so, what are the benefits versus the HDMI signal path?


Anyway, just wanted to let the group know there is one more user out there, (extremely pleased) with his D2.


Cheers


Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, finally a formal member of the D2 users group. I have completed the installation over the last week of my new D2 with the A5 amp, matched with an Arcam 137 DVD/CD player and HD-PVR. HDMI output is to a Sharp D92U 46" LCD.
> 
> 
> I went for the Anthony Gallo 3.1 Reference Mains and Reference center and Surrounds. The audio and video is just delightful. For a sub, I went with a MJ Acoustics 200 which has both LFE and mains feed in to it. This allows me to use the sub on two channel, (set at 40 hz). and then when the LFE is being fed in, at 80 hz.
> 
> 
> I have a fair amount of tuning to do and the store that supplied everything but the speakers will be in to do the ISF calibration next week.
> 
> 
> I've had a bit of fun/frustration trying to get the Rogers HD-PVR to sync it's 1080i output to the D2 but for some reason, tonight, the PVR is sync'ing very nicely. It may have to do with the cold boot I did to the D2 as I re-ran some new Mains speaker wire tonight.
> 
> 
> The competition for watching and listening to the HT has been something else with everyone in the house, (especially the wife), recording all their shows and then demanding time with the set. Oh, well, at least it all has found a nice home!
> 
> 
> To split the CD and DVD signals from the Arcam DV137, I output DVD video and sound via the HDMI and for CD, ran RCA from the DV137 to the D2's CD analog input by-passing the D2's digital inputs. I guess I could do that with the multiple DVD selections but wonder if there is any difference in the route I took.
> 
> 
> I am sure I will have lots of questions for the group as time goes on.
> 
> 
> Anyway, just wanted to let the group know there is one more user out there, (extremely pleased) with his D2.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



congrats and welcome to the club, I have have had my d2 for a couple of weeks so far and love it! bob,lev and others are very helpful here.



enjoy one of the best processors on the planet










bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also received 1.11e today. However it still does not output 1080i with my Directv H-10
> 
> set to native and all.
> 
> 
> dick



Remind me, are you running Component or HDMI from the H-10?


Do you have other 1080i sources and are any of them working?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Good grief! How many Bobs do we have in here now?


The truth is out! It's not a Canadian conspiracy, it's a BOB conspiracy!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> congrats and welcome to the club, I have have had my d2 for a couple of weeks so far and love it! bob,lev and others are very helpful here.
> 
> 
> 
> enjoy one of the best processors on the planet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bob



Thanks Bob


Just wondering, is there a benefit to running coax for the audio from the DVD player and the HD-PVR to the D2 in addition to the audio being provided via the HDMI?


Cheers


Bob


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Remind me, are you running Component or HDMI from the H-10?
> 
> 
> Do you have other 1080i sources and are any of them working?
> 
> --Bob



I am running hdmi from H 10 to D2. The only thing I cannot do is watch sat tv at 1080i. I have the H10 set to native and all rresolutions. With these settings the Oppo 970 and my XA1 work fine and display at 1080i. If I want to watch tv at 1080i I have to set the D2 video our to 1280/ 720. Maybe I should change to component. Also since 1.11e there is more of a delay when changing inputs, sometimes 30 to 45 seconds.


Dick

update: Just tried component and same as hdmi. Scrambled tv picture at 1080i.


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good grief! How many Bobs do we have in here now?
> 
> 
> The truth is out! It's not a Canadian conspiracy, it's a BOB conspiracy!
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob P.


Well, actually I am Canadian as well, (Mississauga, home of Anthem). I guess we may have to start using first letter of the originators last name, or for us slightly older gents, start using a handle of some sort










Cheers


Bob A.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob
> 
> 
> Just wondering, is there a benefit to running coax for the audio from the DVD player and the HD-PVR to the D2 in addition to the audio being provided via the HDMI?
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



From a quality point of view, no. The optical or coax digital audio from the PVR will be identical to the HDMI audio. The same will be true for the DVD player when playing CDs or standard DVDs. If your player plays DVD-Audio or SACD over HDMI that's an advantage that HDMI will have over the other connections.


HDMI digital audio from HD-DVD and Blu-Ray players will also be better than what you can get via optical or coax digital audio.


That said, if you want to run Zone 2 output from the Anthem you may also need to run regular, analog stereo audio from your sources to the Anthem. You'll need to do this if you want Zone 2 to play audio from a different input than what you select for the Main path.


And some HDMI devices will introduce an extra handshake delay to set up audio after setting up video. This can be a nuisance when changing TV channels (for devices like your PVR) when the channel change also changes video resolutions -- and thus triggers a new handshake. To avoid this extra delay to start audio after the video starts, run optical or coax digital audio to the Anthem and use that for audio instead of the audio on the HDMI cable. Set up that way, audio may even begin slightly before the video gets going.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> From a quality point of view, no. The optical or coax digital audio from the PVR will be identical to the HDMI audio. The same will be true for the DVD player when playing CDs or standard DVDs. If your player plays DVD-Audio or SACD over HDMI that's an advantage that HDMI will have over the other connections.
> 
> 
> HDMI digital audio from HD-DVD and Blu-Ray players will also be better than what you can get via optical or coax digital audio.
> 
> 
> That said, if you want to run Zone 2 output from the Anthem you may also need to run regular, analog stereo audio from your sources to the Anthem. You'll need to do this if you want Zone 2 to play audio from a different input than what you select for the Main path.
> 
> 
> And some HDMI devices will introduce an extra handshake delay to set up audio after setting up video. This can be a nuisance when changing TV channels (for devices like your PVR) when the channel change also changes video resolutions -- and thus triggers a new handshake. To avoid this extra delay to start audio after the video starts, run optical or coax digital audio to the Anthem and use that for audio instead of the audio on the HDMI cable. Set up that way, audio may even begin slightly before the video gets going.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the advice Bob.


Yes, I have seen the audio take a little longer or not shake through correctly on the HDMI from the HD-PVR. I will run the coax as you suggest.


I have not seen a problem with the DVD player so will stay with the HDMI for now.


Cheers and thanks


Bob A


----------



## muad'dib

Hello ..


Note sure if this is a problem, but hear it goes..


I calibrated my colours on my sony SXRD 55" 1080p rear projection with OPPO DV-970HD (using colour space ycb4:4:4).. I confirmed this was correct with Avia colour decoder check with green filter (RGB setting was not correct)..


Anyway, I set up colours using spydertvpro, and all went well..


Then..


Using same Dvd player going into D2, with same settings, I found a problem.. Colour space was wrong!! RGB was correct thru D2.. Found this strange since I have D2 set to output (HDTV colour space, and ycb4:4:4 output), same as oppo was when going direct into t.v.


I have 3 other sources that are HD, and all had same colour space problem.. I had to set D2 to SDTV colour space output to be correct.. My other sources are PS3, Snazzio Net cinema HD, and Toshiba HD-DVD A2 player..



By setting the D2 to SDTV setting (to counter this effect), will this degrade my rich colours?? or should I set the output of D2 to RGB and leave the colour space to HDTV??




-chris


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Roomraider,
> 
> Man you couldn't pay me enough to sort out this video connectivity stuff with the current mess of source and display devices out there. *I hope customers recognize the difference between companies that take it seriously and companies that only go after the low hanging fruit -- the easy stuff -- and leave other customers frustrated.*--Bob



Well said Bob. I really hope people do realize that about Anthem.


I was just reading the Halcro pre/pro thread in another section of AVS and something there made me think about what you just said. The high-end Halcro pre/pro was out a little bit before the D2, and they never got multi-ch PCM over HDMI 1.1 working since then (limited to 2 ch only!)! And Halcro just announced that the "fix" would be a HARDWARE upgrade (= $$$), and to forget about HDMI 1.3...


So people paid alot of $ for a crippled HDMI 1.1 connection more then 1 year ago, and will now have to pay more $ to get it fixed... Incredible. Halcro went for the low hanging fruit like you said... I would be a really pissed customer today after reading that from Halcro.


It makes you realize how good the Anthem staff really are...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So people paid alot of $ for a crippled HDMI 1.1 connection more then 1 year ago, and will now have to pay more $ to get it fixed...
> 
> It makes you realize how good the Anthem staff really are...



Halcro costs TWICE what the D2 costs and I can't remember

if it even has any Video Processing.


A BIG OUCH is all I can say. I would be asking for my MONEY

back if I owned one of them.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello ..
> 
> 
> Note sure if this is a problem, but hear it goes..
> 
> 
> I calibrated my colours on my sony SXRD 55" 1080p rear projection with OPPO DV-970HD (using colour space ycb4:4:4).. I confirmed this was correct with Avia colour decoder check with green filter (RGB setting was not correct)..
> 
> 
> Anyway, I set up colours using spydertvpro, and all went well..
> 
> 
> Then..
> 
> 
> Using same Dvd player going into D2, with same settings, I found a problem.. Colour space was wrong!! RGB was correct thru D2.. Found this strange since I have D2 set to output (HDTV colour space, and ycb4:4:4 output), same as oppo was when going direct into t.v.
> 
> 
> I have 3 other sources that are HD, and all had same colour space problem.. I had to set D2 to SDTV colour space output to be correct.. My other sources are PS3, Snazzio Net cinema HD, and Toshiba HD-DVD A2 player..
> 
> 
> 
> By setting the D2 to SDTV setting (to counter this effect), will this degrade my rich colours?? or should I set the output of D2 to RGB and leave the colour space to HDTV??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -chris



This is complicated.


The default color translation for HDTV resolutions and SDTV resolutions is different. The two display standards use slightly different values for the primary colors.


This becomes a problem when converting between YCbCr and RGB (either way) because you need to know which math to use. The math for RGB and Extended RGB is ALSO different. Even if you send YCbCr to a TV, it likely is doing conversion to RGB internally prior to lighting up the pixels.


If you end up using the wrong math, the usual symptom is green "push" or "depression" depending on which way you got it wrong. And if you don't watch out you can make the error TWICE and believe you've fixed the problem when in fact you have only masked it (leaving more subtle problems).


Usually what you want for connection to an HDTV-capable TV is to set an HDTV output resolution and set the connection to use HDTV color space math. For an HDMI to HDMI connection, the data format for the connection would normally be YCbCr 4:4:4. For an HDMI to DVI connection, the data format for the connection would normally be RGB (not Extended RGB).


But consider what happens with an up-scaling standard DVD player. The data on the DVD disc has been captured in the SDTV color space. But if you set the DVD player to send out an HDTV resolution should it use that SDTV color space or convert it to the HDTV color space? The answer is, it should convert it, but not all upscaling players do this, or do it without introducing other problems.


And because of that some TVs have their own settings to force the TV to expect a certain color space (and even data format) instead of just assuming that HDTV resolutions will be using HDTV color space. And those settings in the TV may vary according to the type of cabling and the incoming data format.


So to sort out your problem we'll need to dig into the ENTIRE CHAIN of settings you are using in the Oppo, in the D2 for input, in the D2 for output, and in your SXRD TV. And you need to understand that the assumptions that are being made by each device will change depending upon whether the video signal is 480i/480p (SDTV resolution) or 720p/1080i (HDTV resolution). And if the resolution is NOT one of the standard resolutions the assumptions may be wrong.


Finally, since the devices are trying to do some of this stuff automatically for you, the choices made by the devices may vary according to which devices are connected. Thus you can have the type of confusing situation you describe where you think you have your TV set up correctly due to testing with a directly connected Oppo only to find that some other setting works better with the D2 in the middle.


The fact that you find D2 video output of RGB or SDTV color space better for your TV is suspicious. I suspect that in the course of setting things up for the directly connected Oppo you made some choices in the SXRD that are incorrect but are masked by related settings in the Oppo.


I haven't used an SXRD so I'm not sure I can help. And indeed the combinations are complex enough that there might even be a bug in the D2 that you have stumbled across.


But the thing to do here is to set your TV to best match the imagery produced by the D2's own INTERNAL test charts. And then adjust the D2 input settings and your source device settings as necessary to make source imagery work correctly through the D2.


You might need to start over with factory default settings in the SXRD and the D2 to eliminate anything unusual you set based on the earlier Oppo direct-connect experiments.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am running hdmi from H 10 to D2. The only thing I cannot do is watch sat tv at 1080i. I have the H10 set to native and all rresolutions. With these settings the Oppo 970 and my XA1 work fine and display at 1080i. If I want to watch tv at 1080i I have to set the D2 video our to 1280/ 720. Maybe I should change to component. Also since 1.11e there is more of a delay when changing inputs, sometimes 30 to 45 seconds.
> 
> 
> Dick
> 
> update: Just tried component and same as hdmi. Scrambled tv picture at 1080i.



That doesn't sound good. You've probably tried all the simple stuff already, but just to be sure, have you tried moving the HDMI cable from the output of, say, the Oppo to the output of the H10 and then seeing if you can get H10 input at 1080i through the D2 HDMI input you are currently using for the Oppo? That would eliminate the D2 HDMI input you are currently using for the H10, and also the cable running to it, as potential contributors to the problem.


But my guess is your H10 just happens to be a particularly nasty case. And of course you aren't going to get any help from DirecTV. Keep pluggin' with Nick.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well said Bob. I really hope people do realize that about Anthem.
> 
> 
> I was just reading the Halcro pre/pro thread in another section of AVS and something there made me think about what you just said. The high-end Halcro pre/pro was out a little bit before the D2, and they never got multi-ch PCM over HDMI 1.1 working since then (limited to 2 ch only!)! And Halcro just announced that the "fix" would be a HARDWARE upgrade (= $$$), and to forget about HDMI 1.3...
> 
> 
> So people paid alot of $ for a crippled HDMI 1.1 connection more then 1 year ago, and will now have to pay more $ to get it fixed... Incredible. Halcro went for the low hanging fruit like you said... I would be a really pissed customer today after reading that from Halcro.
> 
> 
> It makes you realize how good the Anthem staff really are...



Well said. In the league of the "upgradable" pre/pro there is only a few that really deliver. In my opinion Anthem is at the top the list.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> I was just reading the Halcro pre/pro thread in another section of AVS



On but Alain, the Halcro takes everything to another level. It's just so much more musical than the D1\\2. Why settle for mid-fi surround when you can have 2-channel bliss for only $10k?









What I find stupefying about some of the people who buy these pieces is that their patience seems unending regarding promised upgrades and small featuresets for a $10k piece of gear but when it comes to a $500 HD DVD player, slow load times are unacceptable.

BTW, the Anthem has been characterized as "highly flawed" up there.

What a joke.

To some the D1\\2 is an unbelieveably expensive piece of gear, to me it is one of the best if not the best, AV buying decisions I've ever made.

To me, a pre/pro on the level of the D1\\2 is the most difficult piece of AV gear to do right. Many good companies have tried and failed.

It really is a testament to the staff at Anthem that they have succeeded so well on so many different levels.


----------



## Nathan_R

Well, I joined the Oppo 970 club today. Thanks for the setup tips in the last few pages. So far, so good. It's nice to retire my analog multichannel connections.


Now an Anthem question: how hard would it be for Anthem to take an unprocessed 1080p component signal and output it over HDMI? I'm thinking Xbox360 here... As far as I can tell, the only way to get a native 1080p signal from the 360 through the AVM-50 is to use unprocessed component as the output-- but in my case (as I'm sure exists with many others), that would require running an additional cable to the display device.


Is the unit capable (in the future or whatnot) of transcoding that analog 1080p signal to digital 1080p output through HDMI? I'd greatly prefer to run a single HDMI cable to my PJ and TV.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What I find stupefying about some of the people who buy these pieces is that their patience seems unending regarding promised upgrades and small featuresets for a $10k piece of gear but when it comes to a $500 HD DVD player, slow load times are unacceptable.
> 
> BTW, the Anthem has been characterized as "highly flawed" up there.
> 
> What a joke.



I know. For some people, the more it cost, the better it should perform.







And when you pay that much money for the Halcro, and can't even get multi-ch LPCM over HDMI 1.1 after 1 year, you have to justify your decision...


I don't know what's flawed. A pre/pro with a working HDMI 1.1 since the first day it came out 1 year ago, or a pre/pro costing 2 times more with a crippled HDMI 1.1 connection still not working after 1 year?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nathan_R,

The Anthems can *PROCCESS* Component input up to 1080p/30Hz -- including transcoding it to HDMI, frame rate conversion to HDMI 1080p/60Hz output, etc.


1080p/30Hz is the same information content as 1080i/60Hz -- which the Anthem's can also proces even from Component input. What's actually on the HD-DVD and Blu-Ray discs is only 1080p/24Hz.


So if you can get the XBOX to output Component 1080p/24Hz (which is all that's really justified given what's on the disc) you are covered.


The only "pass through" restriction is for Component 1080p/60Hz input.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I joined the Oppo 970 club today. Thanks for the setup tips in the last few pages. So far, so good. It's nice to retire my analog multichannel connections.
> 
> 
> Now an Anthem question: how hard would it be for Anthem to take an unprocessed 1080p component signal and output it over HDMI? I'm thinking Xbox360 here... As far as I can tell, the only way to get a native 1080p signal from the 360 through the AVM-50 is to use unprocessed component as the output-- but in my case (as I'm sure exists with many others), that would require running an additional cable to the display device.
> 
> 
> Is the unit capable (in the future or whatnot) of transcoding that analog 1080p signal to digital 1080p output through HDMI? I'd greatly prefer to run a single HDMI cable to my PJ and TV.




I believe the XBOX HDDVD only outputs 1080i over component. But does do 1080p through VGA. Not 100% sure though.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe the XBOX HDDVD only outputs 1080i over component. But does do 1080p through VGA. Not 100% sure though.



Well if so, Component 1080i/60Hz carries all the information that's on the disc. The /24Hz film frame rate has been raised to the /30Hz video frame rate (in the player) by "field replication" in the standard 2-3-3-2 cadence. The video frame rate stuff is then interlaced and the result is 1080i/60Hz.


And again, the Anthems can do the full range of their processing on Component 1080i/60Hz input.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> set your TV to best match the imagery produced by the D2's own INTERNAL test charts.
> 
> --Bob



First off, thank you very much bob for the awesome advice..









We are lucky to have you on this forum..










What is the procedure to do the internal test patterns thing?? (I have a red, blue, green filter kit)..


I emailed Nick (anthem), and his thought were same as yours.. Check input signals (SDTV/HDTV), check output of D2 (SDTV/HDTV), and colour matrix on t.v. itself..


When I did the oppo to the T.V. direct, the SXRD was using the 701 colour matrix..


The oppo was set to 1080i, YCBR 4:4:4..


but..


D2 was set to HDTV colour space, and YCBR 4:4:4, and seemed incorrect for sources..


With your great suggestion, I will now go and check input setting on D2 for each source.. (SDTV/HDTV settings)..


I do believe however, that the input setting are correct.. Strange that all my sources (sony ps-3, toshiba HD-dvd A2, Oppo, and Snazzio are all incorrect)..


Thanks again for the great advice.. Your the best...


----------



## goenkar

Hi fellow Anthemers,


Here is an update on my attempts to get the preamp to talk to my Runco projector. I had to send my unit in because 2 HDMI ports stopped working within 2 days. For various reasons it took a while to get to Anthem. They looked at it, determined that there was a problem (software related I believe), fixed it and shipped it back to me within a week.


Meanwhile I got a 1x2HDMI splitter from Monoprice (not switcher). After I got the unit back, I hooked the output of the preamp and sent it to the splitter. The splitter then talks to the projector. This resolved the handshake issue.


With software 1.11c I was only able to get PS3 to work in this config over HDMI. My OPPO970 would not work.


With yesterdays 1.11e update I am now able to get my OPPO to also work. I had also updated the OPPO yesterday to the 1220 firmware so it maybe a combination of factors but I leaning towards the Anthem firmware fixing the OPPO problem.


I still have the problem with the Runco but at least now I am able to enjoy BD via HDMI and not have to buy another projector (for now).


Over the past year I have bought 2 AVM-50's and Jim Salk's HT3/HTC speakers and a PS3, so I need to stop spending money and make some







. I have to extract some more life out of my Runco which I like a lot.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I still have the problem with the Runco but at least now I am able to enjoy BD via HDMI and not have to buy another projector (for now).



I had HDMI problems with my RUNCO - EVEN BEFORE I owned a D2.


I ended up switching to a Sony Ruby - again before I bought a D2.


The D2 and the Ruby LOVE EACH OTHER.


I'm THINK the Runco has some outdated EDID codes that may be

causing your problems.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> First off, thank you very much bob for the awesome advice..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are lucky to have you on this forum..



The thought of Bob not posting here anymore, or buying from another manufacturer freaks me out










So Bob, *please* stay healthy, and for god's sakes, *please*, *please* look both ways before crossing


----------



## yatchaks

Duplicate post


----------



## zzzzdoc

Any issues with the DirecTV HD20, DirecTV HR20 DVR or the Tivo Series 3 with the Anthem?


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any issues with the DirecTV HD20, DirecTV HR20 DVR or the Tivo Series 3 with the Anthem?




I have had an audio/video droput problem with the Tivo S3. I replaced/upgraded two HDMI cables, and it didn't help.


Nick sent me 1.11d software, and that didn't help either. I now have the newer 1.11e software installed, so far so good.


Mark


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any issues with the DirecTV HD20, DirecTV HR20 DVR or the Tivo Series 3 with the Anthem?



I had an issue with losing picture & sound intermittently with the Series 3, but Anthem made a number of fixes and I run the Tivo S3 at native and works fine. Slight video pause when jumping in and out of the 720p listings/Menus, but that is a combination that likely includes the projector. Tossed out my Faroudja and never looked back.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> First off, thank you very much bob for the awesome advice..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are lucky to have you on this forum..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is the procedure to do the internal test patterns thing?? (I have a red, blue, green filter kit)..
> 
> 
> I emailed Nick (anthem), and his thought were same as yours.. Check input signals (SDTV/HDTV), check output of D2 (SDTV/HDTV), and colour matrix on t.v. itself..
> 
> 
> When I did the oppo to the T.V. direct, the SXRD was using the 701 colour matrix..
> 
> 
> The oppo was set to 1080i, YCBR 4:4:4..
> 
> 
> but..
> 
> 
> D2 was set to HDTV colour space, and YCBR 4:4:4, and seemed incorrect for sources..
> 
> 
> With your great suggestion, I will now go and check input setting on D2 for each source.. (SDTV/HDTV settings)..
> 
> 
> I do believe however, that the input setting are correct.. Strange that all my sources (sony ps-3, toshiba HD-dvd A2, Oppo, and Snazzio are all incorrect)..
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the great advice.. Your the best...



Here's a post I wrote earlier in this thread about setting up the display levels manually:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9277613 


For whatever reason, the symptoms you describe are best explained as the SXRD incorrectly using the SDTV color space math internally for YCbCr to RGB conversion when connected to the D2.


I'm not sure why it would do that.


But this explains why the picture corrects itself when you set the D2 to either SDTV output of YCbCr or to RGB output. When the D2 is set to SDTV color space output of YCbCr it is converting the YCbCr to that color space -- which apparently matches what your SXRD wants.


When you set the D2 to RGB output it is doing the conversion to RGB itself -- and doing it correctly for an HDTV display. Since the data is already arriving as RGB the SXRD has no math to do so it doesn't screw it up.


So again, the most likely problem here is that somehow you have managed to set the SXRD to expect that YCbCr is arriving in the SDTV color space even at HDTV resolutions.


If the color space math is right, and there are no other errors in the color decoder in your display, then the "best" Color and Tint settings when viewed through the blue filter will also be close to the "best" Color and Tint settings when viewed through the green filter. The red filter measurements may be further afield due to the common problem of "red push" found in some displays. If you've got it wrong, green "push" or green "depression" is pretty evident -- something like 15% as measured by the Avia color decoder test as I recall.


===============================


EDITED TO ADD: Pay careful attention to your choice of "picture mode" in the SXRD. If you've choosen one of the torch modes, you may have so much color bias built in that your efforts to compensate are skewing your color settings. And then the green push or green depression resulting from what's actually INCORRECT color space math might APPEAR to be correct when it is actually wrong.

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had an issue with losing picture & sound intermittently with the Series 3, but Anthem made a number of fixes and I run the Tivo S3 at native and works fine. Slight video pause when jumping in and out of the 720p listings/Menus, but that is a combination that likely includes the projector. Tossed out my Faroudja and never looked back.



rudolpht,


If memory serves me, I believe you and I are the only two with S3/Anthem problems.


I too run the S3 as native, and am curious as to what fixed your problem. I assume it was simply an Anthem software upgrade? If so, which version solved your issue, and how long has it been since you had an issue? Also, are you using HDMI in the complete chain (Anthem out to TV, S3 to Anthem)?


Mark


----------



## ensmarcum

Bob,


Can I ask you what you use for interconnects and speaker wire?


Thanks Rob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's a post I wrote earlier in this thread about setting up the display levels manually:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9277613
> 
> 
> For whatever reason, the symptoms you describe are best explained as the SXRD incorrectly using the SDTV color space math internally for YCbCr to RGB conversion when connected to the D2.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why it would do that.
> 
> 
> But this explains why the picture corrects itself when you set the D2 to either SDTV output of YCbCr or to RGB output. When the D2 is set to SDTV color space output of YCbCr it is converting the YCbCr to that color space -- which apparently matches what your SXRD wants.
> 
> 
> When you set the D2 to RGB output it is doing the conversion to RGB itself -- and doing it correctly for an HDTV display. Since the data is already arriving as RGB the SXRD has no math to do so it doesn't screw it up.
> 
> 
> So again, the most likely problem here is that somehow you have managed to set the SXRD to expect that YCbCr is arriving in the SDTV color space even at HDTV resolutions.
> 
> 
> If the color space math is right, and there are no other errors in the color decoder in your display, then the "best" Color and Tint settings when viewed through the blue filter will also be close to the "best" Color and Tint settings when viewed through the green filter. The red filter measurements may be further afield due to the common problem of "red push" found in some displays. If you've got it wrong, green "push" or green "depression" is pretty evident -- something like 15% as measured by the Avia color decoder test as I recall.
> 
> 
> -Bob



Thanx again Bob,, You are the awesome

















Finally solved what was happening, and very, very, happy to say that the D2 is decoding inputs correct...










Like you suggested, I threw on the test patterns from the D2 to the SXRD, went to the colour bars section, and looked thru my green, blue, red filters..


Here is what happened..


thru blue filter, all looked same shade (therefore set correct)..

thru red filter, same, all same shades..


but..


Green filter, shades were NOT same...


So....


Checked my D2 settings.. Was set to HDTV and YCB 4:4:4...


SXRD was detecting the 701 matrix (sending a 1080p singnal to SXRD)..


Chaged output of D2 to YCB 2:2:2, and same error with green..


Then tried the RGB output, with HDTV colour, and WOW, green shades dialed in perfect with internal test patterns..


So, Went back to all my sources, from Oppo (480i, YCB 4:4:4 setting on player - D2 detected SDTV signal colour space), and GREEN PERFECT..


So far so good..


Toshiba HD-DVD A2 player, set to 1080i, GREEN PERFECT..


PS3 (1080p setting), same, GREEN NOW PERFECT...


So..


To sum things up, looks like my SXRD likes the RGB output from D2, as compared to any of the YCB settings..


Now I can see movies with correct colour tones!!

















This now brings up the question,,,, Why when using Oppo direct to T.V. using the YCB 4:4:4 setting, green levels correct, but when going thru D2 with same settings, I have to use the RGB setting on D2??


For fun I tried the RGB setting on Oppo, and no colour change in green (when going into D2)..


Thanx so much again for all you help Bob...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Can I ask you what you use for interconnects and speaker wire?
> 
> 
> Thanks Rob



Frankly I forget, which will give you some idea of the importance I place on them.


There was a period some years back when I sought out exotic wire to match with Mark Levinson electronics, etc., etc. I'm kind of a pack rat so I've still got interconnects I purchased decades ago. I've come to believe that the manufacturing and materials in such wires are insignificant compared to other things that affect sound, and so nowadays I just grab whatever's convenient out of the pile -- the right length and with color pairing and difference between sets of wires to make it easier to know what connects to what.


Now I'm not suggesting you use unshielded twisted pair wire from Radio Shack as interconnects, but I also wouldn't recommend you spend a lot of time angsting about whether the $500 pair of cables is really better than the $100 pair or the $40 pair.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

maud'dib,

Yes it sounds like your SXRD is happiest being sent RGB.


It also sounds like there's an HDMI connection flaw in your SXRD. The YCbCr stuff shouldn't fail like that. It is possible the SXRD isn't applying the HDTV color space math correctly at the resolution you are sending from the Anthem, even though you told it to.


It is also possible that the SXRD is reporting incorrectly what it is doing when the Anthem does the handshake to set up the connection.


It is also possible that the SXRD is getting confused about what to do because the Anthem is sitting in between it and the sources and acting as a repeater.


If you haven't done so already, try setting HDMI Repeater = NO in the Anthem Setup / Source Setup menu for each source device connected via HDMI. When using HDMI Repeater = YES there is some communication that goes on (through the Anthem) between the source and the display. It is possible the SXRD thinks that the video resolution being used is SDTV instead of the HDTV it is actually being sent from the Anthem and so it is reverting to SDTV color space math -- incorrectly.


As to your original question, there's not really any reason to avoid RGB if that seems to work best. You may see a slight increase in noise in near black portions of the image since the Anthem will have to "dither" those to keep one color or the other from dominating. This can be minimized if not completely eliminated by careful adjustment of black levels.

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

Bob,


Do you know of anyway to get cable to be processed through the d2 without a cable box. I have cable in my house but no box, ie no digital cable. Do you know of a way or method to hook it up to be processed through the d2? And thank you for your undieing fortitued in answering even the silliest and easy questions. Cheers! Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Do you know of anyway to get cable to be processed through the d2 without a cable box. I have cable in my house but no box, ie no digital cable. Do you know of a way or method to hook it up to be processed through the d2? And thank you for your undieing fortitued in answering even the silliest and easy questions. Cheers! Rob



You need a TV tuner. A "cable-ready" TV has such a tuner and may even have an optical digital audio output you can use to send multi-channel audio to the D2. Connect your basic cable feed to the TV's antenna input, set the TV's antenna input to expect "cable-style" channel tuning instead of regular off air stuff, and then either don't use the D2 at all or run audio output from your TV to the D2.


Another possiblity is to use a VCR. Video tape recorders often have "cable-ready" TV tuners built in. However it is less likely, in that case, that you'll be able to get anything beyond traditional analog stereo audio to the D2. Run the cable feed to the antenna input of the VCR and once again set the tuner in the VCR to use cable-style channel tuning. Send video output and audio output from the VCR to the D2. Typically the best you'll get for video from the VCR will be S-video.


And then of course you can get a cable set top box from your cable provider or something fancy like a Tivo S3 with a couple of "cable cards" that would be activated by your cable provider.


Whatever you do, do *NOT* try to run a cable TV feed directly into ANY input on the D2! First of all, the D2 doesn't know how to tune TV channels, but more important the cable feeds often have voltage on them which can damage the D2.

--Bob


----------



## SupraIsMyCar

Anyone in the LA/South Bay area with experience purchasing either a 50 or D2 from one of the listed dealers? Looking for experiences purchasing Paradigm References too- thanks


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> rudolpht,
> 
> 
> If memory serves me, I believe you and I are the only two with S3/Anthem problems.
> 
> 
> I too run the S3 as native, and am curious as to what fixed your problem. I assume it was simply an Anthem software upgrade? If so, which version solved your issue, and how long has it been since you had an issue? Also, are you using HDMI in the complete chain (Anthem out to TV, S3 to Anthem)?
> 
> 
> Mark



Mark,


I believe it was 2 betas ago my video loss & audio loss intermittent issues seemed to be resolved. (Incidentally 1 release ago solved my XA2 audio loss issues on chapter skips, also HDMI.


So for me the HDMI switching audio and video issues seem resolved. (I was surprised you were still having them. As I mentioned the only negligible thing was a pause that occurs going to the guide which is 720p - wish I could get it 1080i, but that's clearly a Tivo thing (I'm assuming).


The next to last 3 betas were really amazing in cleaning issues. I haven't had to "reboot" the unit once in a few weeks.


One side issue on the Tivo. I did run toslink bitstream as a backup to the HDMI audio as effectively suggested by Bob, so potentially the unit retrogrades to that stream if the HDMI audio tango uniform, but I do have the status messages when I switch sources or resolutions and haven't noticed an audio change. The other devices on HDMI audio only (Pio BDP & Tosh XA2 are doing fine as well. (My 59AVi I need to run optical as no sound on the HDMI (too early)).


What are you still experiencing? I know I should wait to here experiences before installing betas, but I usually do it right off the bat. The ride (improvement) is nothing short of amazing based on Anthem commitment. (I have an AVM-50 but I don't think that would matter with regards to the S3.


Tim


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Do you know of anyway to get cable to be processed through the d2 without a cable box. I have cable in my house but no box, ie no digital cable. Do you know of a way or method to hook it up to be processed through the d2? And thank you for your undieing fortitued in answering even the silliest and easy questions. Cheers! Rob



Do you have Cable Card internal to the set (which makes it hard to route it out of the TV then back in again processed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> (My 59AVi I need to run optical as no sound on the HDMI (too early)).
> 
> 
> Tim



Really? I'm using a Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD player with both audio and video running over the HDMI cable to the D2 and it works peachy.


I also have Coax digital audio and 6-channel analog audio cabled for experiments (and for DVD-Audio / SACD stuff), but my primary configuration runs the digital audio over the HDMI to the D2.


It's been a long time since I fiddled with the audio settings on the 59avi, but I suspect you need to go into the special HDMI menu in the 59avi and turn on the proper audio output over HDMI: Initial Settings / Options / HDMI Settings / Audio. The settings in that HDMI menu are for HDMI only. The other audio and video settings menus in the 59avi won't adjust HDMI audio or video.


Set Audio to Auto in that HDMI menu.


You may also have to set HDMI Repeater = NO for that input in the Anthem. If your display doesn't handle bitstreams, or is a DVI device and doesn't handle audio at all, it is possible the 59avi will discover that during the handshake, if you leave Repeater = Yes, and turn off the HDMI audio output.


HDMI Repeater = NO is also helpful in that you can play audio over HDMI even if your display is turned off.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

Anyone mind if this thread is made a sticky?

I asked Alan and he said OK.

Actually imo this thread is a manual


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Really? I'm using a Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD player with both audio and video running over the HDMI cable to the D2 and it works peachy.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


You teach me something new almost every day







I was under the wrong assumption and I used to use the unit with firewire audio and missed that so I never even bothered to try HDMI.


Here's a question from the if it isn't broken don't fix it department (in sharp contrast to immediately installing betas) - Will the sound be any better using HDMI as a transport. It's decoded in the Anthem but just wondering what I'll gain. I was thinking of putting my 59 up for auction, but I would hate to lose an old friend










Tim


----------



## abc999

Bob,


I have a mitsu hc5000 and calibrated it to d6500 using colorfacts 6.0. I got d65 but had to lower green gain to -30 just to lower the color. Is it posibble that I should change my colorspace also (avm50)as there is too much green? I am using my pioneer dv59i as the souce of the greyscale window pattern using avia software.


Alvin


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The only downside to it being a sticky is that we'll likely attract more off topic questions from folks who don't know how to find the right thread or are too shy to start a new thread.


There will also likely be a few remarks about singling out such an exotic product this way. But those will pass.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I have a mitsu hc5000 and calibrated it to d6500 using colorfacts 6.0. I got d65 but had to lower green gain to -30 just to lower the color. Is it posibble that I should change my colorspace also as there is too much green?
> 
> 
> Alvin



Alvin,

Yes that's possible. Color Temperature and what happens in the Color Decoder are really two different things. But depending upon how you are measuring this stuff they can get confused together.


Also be aware that your choice of "picture mode" in the display may bias things so that it takes extreme settings to compensate. Find the "movies" picture mode and start from there as described in the link I gave MAUD'DIB above.


The trick to get the display settings right is to know how the source signal got generated and what's being done to it on the path to the display.


Measuring Color Temperature is not tough. You just need a panel of "white" that is bright enough for the light sensor to measure. You can get that generated for you directly in the Anthem via its Test Patterns.


This eliminates any possibility the source is being adjusted incorrectly. All that's left is how the Anthem is sending the signal to your display and what the display is doing to it.


In addition, you can measure the Green component of White and compare to the pure Green bar in the SMPTE chart, and similarly for Blue and Red components. And then also do the same for the secondary colors.


This will tell you if the Color Decoder is set right. For example if your current Color and Tint settings produce the correct match for the Blue component of both Blue and White bars and of Magenta and Cyan bars, but the GREEN is still off (i.e., the Green component of White is out of whack compared to the Green bar), then you know you have a Color Decodor problem, and the usual problem will be that you have a mismatch of SDTV and HDTV color space math.


Mass market TVs will also "feature" Red Push which shows up as Red being too hot even though Color and Tint are correct for Blue. This is a torch mode setting, and depending upon the TV you may have no way to eliminate it.


[NOTE: The measurements above are all at a particular output level, which is usually fine for owner adjustments. Most good TVs will do quite well with other levels when set right for one level. But a professional calibrator -- an ISF tech -- would look for controls that provide more refinement across the range of output levels.]

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> You teach me something new almost every day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was under the wrong assumption and I used to use the unit with firewire audio and missed that so I never even bothered to try HDMI.
> 
> 
> Here's a question from the if it isn't broken don't fix it department (in sharp contrast to immediately installing betas) - Will the sound be any better using HDMI as a transport. It's decoded in the Anthem but just wondering what I'll gain. I was thinking of putting my 59 up for auction, but I would hate to lose an old friend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tim



Well in my case I've never explored the I-link stuff so I don't have a good answer for that. But when comparing HDMI audio and either optical or coax SPDIF audio, the audio from both CDs and from standard DVDs is identical. If you've got optical or coax working now there's no point in switching to HDMI audio unless you need to free up an optical or coax input socket on the D2.

--Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

Im still trying to understand this, with my a2 hddvd player I have it set to pcm and when playing an hddvd sometimes on the d2 display it reads 2.0 and then other times I look over and it reads 5.1. I check the status on screen and when its 2.0 it reads L&R and when in 5.1 obviously it reads L,R,c,ls,lr,s and in 5.1 the status says imput 96kz. Now when in bitstream it only reads 48kz, I also noticed when the a2 is set to bitstream with sdvd the d2 does not read dd 5.1 it mixes pl2x for a true dd movie?



thanks, one of the bobs


----------



## Lars158

How can I get hold of the 1.11e release of the AVM50 software? On the Anthem site I can only find the 1.11 release...

Thanks, /LB


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How can I get hold of the 1.11e release of the AVM50 software? On the Anthem site I can only find the 1.11 release...
> 
> Thanks, /LB



It's a test release, not quite ready yet for general distribution. If you are having any of the problems discussed here, just get in touch with Anthem tech support and they can make it available to you -- typically be emailing the zip file to you.


If you are not having a significant problem you might just want to wait until they decide it is ready as a general public release and put it up for download on the web site. My guess would be they are getting pretty close to that. As a public release it would probably be named 1.12, or possibly even 1.20.

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex

Ok Super Nerds... Once again this novice want to be super nerd needs your incredible advice. I currently own the Sony Pearl which has a terrible scalar so the Anthem is a blessing and does a great job of scaling and deinterlacing my picture. (I'm trying to act like I know what I'm saying).


My issue is I'm thinking about upgrading to the new JVC RS-1 projector and selling my Pearl. My concern or question is will the two Gennum chips/scalars have issues working together? Apparently the RS-1 has a Gennum scalar like my AVM 50. I think it might have the same one that's in the Anthem. Can anyone confirm? If it does which one will do all the work and can I disable one to allow the other to carry the load and allow me to do all my modifications through one device. If it has a newer chip should I do my modifications through the projector and not the AVM 50? What would you guys do? I imagine I'll get more control through the AVM 50 but the RS-1 might have features (mosquito noise) that the AVM 50 doesn't.... Would the chip in the RS-1 have features specific to the projector that would outweigh using the AVM? Help....


What would you recommend? Do we think the scalar is the RS-1 will be better than my AVM 50?


Thanks again for all the wonderful advice. You guys are awesome for taking the time to help us "newbie's" out.



Lars,


Call Anthem... Usually you need an issue to get an upgrade. Say you can't get 1080i component to work for your Xbox 360 HD DVD drive. That's fixed in C, D and E. Request E.


Big Tex


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Big Tex,

There's nothing to fear in having two good video solutions one after the other. Part of what a good video solution does is recognizing when it has no work to do.


You will, most likely, use your new projector the same way you are using your current projector. Pick the one best video style for the projector -- the one it handles best -- and set the Anthem to convert all input sources to that one video output style.


If you ever have need to connect another source directly to the projector, the good video processing inside it will handle that for you.


----------------------------------


A quick check of the JVC site shows that this projector uses a Gennum 9351, instead of the 9350. I don't know the precise differences but I suspect they are minor, and likely do not include the noise reduction stuff that's supposed to be featured in the 9450 (not available yet).

--bob


----------



## ensmarcum

Alright, after spending all day and half the night completely rewiring my entire system with new speaker wire, video interconnects and audio interconnects, I have to say that there is a huge difference in what I was using and what I am now piping through my system. With a new HDMI cable and component interconnect from the dvd player to the d2 and then to the tv, all I can say is WOW!!! I know that it is a huge debate over whether or not cables make the difference, well i think that I must say they do. From the point and investment I have made now, I cannot imagine that buying higher priced cables will make that much more of a difference but from the radio shack/monster/what ever the hell else i had...the new audioquest cables and speaker wire has made the d2 and my movie going experience as big of a shock as the initial d2 experience. I have always not liked watching the bourne identity and supremacy movies because they are so dark and I could never get the picture right on my tv. Damnit if the d2 hasnt created a new life for these movies. No longer are the shadows dark, but clear and although dark, not so dark that I cant tell what is being shown. I cant wait to try out the divinci code, that whole movie has always been dark on my tv. MMMM...the day when I have more money, and time to invest in a projector, bigger amps and a dedicated theater room make me slobber. One day boys, one day....


----------



## psnl1

I've really tried to do my own homework using existing threads/posts, but after reading through this thread and some others that are referenced within, I would appreciate some feedback to be sure that I understand things correctly. Given some current limitations of my existing system, I'm trying to determine how much better video quality the AVM50 will give me for HDTV, SD DVD, and HD DVD (future upgrade) over my current setup, as well as what other upgrades are necessary.


I have a 2006 Mitsubishi WD-73727 display that cannot receive a 1080p signal directly (barring the PC input suggestion on HDMI-2). My understanding is that even though the Mitsu is a 1080p TV, it can only receive either a 1080i or 720p (or lesser) signal and then upconvert internally to *display* at 1080p. Also, I only have component cables running in the wall to my TV. A Denon 2900 DVD player and Comcast HR DVR box are switched through my Pioneer Elite 45 AVR.


1. For HDTV and SD DVD, if I'm not trying to pass a 1080p signal to the Mitsu from the AVM50, will I get any performance gain using my current component cables or do I have to use an HDMI cable?


2. Can I connect my SD DVD player and HD DVR to the AVM50 via component, let the AVM50 work its magic and output via component to the TV? I realize that I will still need to run audio cables to the AVM50 for each source.


3. When I finally move to HD-DVD/BluRaythen I will need to pull a HDMI cable to the TV because of the HDCP compliance issues.


I very much appreciate the discussion and thoughtful responses on this discussion thread. Thanks for your help!!


----------



## Jim E.

I hope this isn't too far off topic from the current threads and perhaps this issue deserves a thread of its own but it seems to me that Anthem should give a little more attention to the "broadcast quality" video processing's most critical aspect: namely 1:1 pixel mapping.


Both manuals, the D2's and AVM50's, mention the importance of disabling all video processing in any source so that the unit's "advanced processing can be used to its potential."


That may be easy in a dvd player, your cable box etc..., but not the case with many plasma display units.


If your display does NOT have a 1:1 pixel mapping mode then I would think that you may not be able to benefit from the full potential of the video processing chip. In other words, you could get double scaling which would definitely be an unwanted process.


So to get to my question, how do you determine whether or not you've reached this sought after 1:1 pixel mapping utopia?


Are there test patterns built in to the unit to do that? By way of example I do know that pixelmagic's Crystallio II offers such test patterns.


I know there are some test patterns built into the Anthem unit but the manual mentions nothing about 1:1 pixel test patterns.


To put this into perspective let's take an example. Panasonic plasma consumer models seem to be notoriously difficult when it comes to 1:1 pixel mapping.


I've read that some resort to using the vga in while other's try to use the hdmi but I can't recall anyone getting 1:1 mapping.


So what's the solution? Any examples, ideas or references? Any help might be useful to many people especially given the high cost of these units and wanting to get the most for your dollar.


If I missed the answer in this voluminous thread then I apologize in advance.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 
> 
> What are you still experiencing? I know I should wait to here experiences before installing betas, but I usually do it right off the bat.
> 
> Tim



Well, I spoke to soon. Still having the same issues.

















During almost every viewing (S3) I lose the handshake to a blue screen. This usually happens when selecting a show to watch (or backing out of) the S3 (720p)menu. Other times it will happen when changing channels, since I will be changing between 480i, 720p, and 1080i material.


Most of the time the program I'm about to watch, or the program that is on the current selected channel will be either 480i or 1080i, and since the S3 menu is 720p, I lose the hand shake when I want to view a program and leave the S3 menu.


Actually, the hand shake has even been lost while *simply watching* a program, and I don't have a remote in my hand!


Anthem repeater is set to off, I've tried setting it on, but this creates other issues.


Other gear connected via HDMI and component have worked perfectly.


It appears I'm the only one with this problem. I guess it is possible the problem is on my end. TV issue? Bad Tivo?


Tonight for kicks, I will use a different HDMI input on the Anthem, then try a different input on the TV and see if that helps. Next will be a call to Nick, then look into replacing the S3.


Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

yatchaks,

My guess would be either that Anthem needs to spend a little more time analysing the handshake from the S3 or that you need to upgrade your HDMI cable from the S3. You can do the cable test yourself, but for the rest, you need to contact Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex

Thanks Bob! I hope you have time available this afternoon because it looks like it's going to be a busy day. All my fellow newbie's are out for blood after putting their children to bed and spending their Saturday night fiddling with their Anthems.


Thanks for all the help and advice!!!!!! We all appreciate it!


PS. If anyone knows the difference between the 50 & 51 Gennum chip please speak up. I'm very curious....


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> yatchaks,
> 
> My guess would be either that Anthem needs to spend a little more time analysing the handshake from the S3 or that you need to upgrade your HDMI cable from the S3. You can do the cable test yourself, but for the rest, you need to contact Anthem.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob,


Actually, last week I replaced the S3 cable as well as the Anthem monitor out cable.


It just occured to me, connecting the S3 directly to the TV for few days will tell me if it is an Anthem issue. Worth a try.


Here is to the thought of losing Anthem's scaler for a few days...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So to get to my question, how do you determine whether or not you've reached this sought after 1:1 pixel mapping utopia?
> 
> 
> Are there test patterns built in to the unit to do that? By way of example I do know that pixelmagic's Crystallio II offers such test patterns.



The Anthems do not have a 1:1 pixel mapping test chart built in.


I use the Pixel Cropping test from Avia Pro, but of course that depends on whether your DVD player crops any pixels. The same would be true for any other source device based test.


My Fujitsu plasma won't accept its native resolution as input. It's native resolution is 1366 x 768 and the closest it accepts is 1360 x 768. It displays that with a tiny black bar on either side of the image. However the results of feeding it 1360x768 are spectacular. The 1360x768 pixels I'm feeding it are obviously being displayed without additional scaling.


There's no magic going on here. If you feed the display an image that it displays without further stretching, compression, or cropping then you don't have double scaling even if you haven't actually disabled the scaler in the display. Some displays force overscan and you need to find the setting to turn that off, but if your display contains N x M pixels and you send it N x M pixels and are seeing all of them without additional borders than you have achieved 1:1 pixel mapping.


That said, I think Anthem should add an edge to edge pixel test chart so that folks can verify their video output settings independent of any source device.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Anthems do not have a 1:1 pixel mapping test chart built in.
> 
> 
> I use the Pixel Cropping test from Avia Pro, but of course that depends on whether your DVD player crops any pixels. The same would be true for any other source device based test.
> 
> 
> My Fujitsu plasma won't accept its native resolution as input. It's native resolution is 1366 x 768 and the closest it accepts is 1360 x 768. It displays that with a tiny black bar on either side of the image. However the results of feeding it 1360x768 are spectacular. The 1360x768 pixels I'm feeding it are obviously being displayed without additional scaling.



So you verified that your dvd player does not crop any pixels? Which dvd player do you have?


Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *psnl1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've really tried to do my own homework using existing threads/posts, but after reading through this thread and some others that are referenced within, I would appreciate some feedback to be sure that I understand things correctly. Given some current limitations of my existing system, I'm trying to determine how much better video quality the AVM50 will give me for HDTV, SD DVD, and HD DVD (future upgrade) over my current setup, as well as what other upgrades are necessary.
> 
> 
> I have a 2006 Mitsubishi WD-73727 display that cannot receive a 1080p signal directly (barring the PC input suggestion on HDMI-2). My understanding is that even though the Mitsu is a 1080p TV, it can only receive either a 1080i or 720p (or lesser) signal and then upconvert internally to *display* at 1080p. Also, I only have component cables running in the wall to my TV. A Denon 2900 DVD player and Comcast HR DVR box are switched through my Pioneer Elite 45 AVR.
> 
> 
> 1. For HDTV and SD DVD, if I'm not trying to pass a 1080p signal to the Mitsu from the AVM50, will I get any performance gain using my current component cables or do I have to use an HDMI cable?
> 
> 
> 2. Can I connect my SD DVD player and HD DVR to the AVM50 via component, let the AVM50 work its magic and output via component to the TV? I realize that I will still need to run audio cables to the AVM50 for each source.
> 
> 
> 3. When I finally move to HD-DVD/BluRaythen I will need to pull a HDMI cable to the TV because of the HDCP compliance issues.
> 
> 
> I very much appreciate the discussion and thoughtful responses on this discussion thread. Thanks for your help!!



OK let's work backwards. First of all the situation right now is that you CAN play HD-DVD and Blu-Ray discs at high resolution over Component video cabling because the studios have not yet started shipping discs that prohibit it. They threatened to prohibit it from the get go, but backed off when they realized how tough the battle was going to be between the two formats. They could switch at any time to making new titles that prohibit it. If they do, everybody who set up their HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player with Component output cabling is going to be miffed.


However, it is still the case that when playing STANDARD DVDs on such players, the video output resolution for Component cabling is limited to 480p. This is not a problem since you want to feed the Anthem 480i anyway when playing standard DVDs.


Meanwhile, Component output resolution on the Anthem is limited to 480p if the source is Component video which is "Macrovision" copy protected. This would include Component video from DVD players that add Macrovision protection to DVDs to keep them from being copied to tape in VCRs.


Your HD DVR will have no such limitation.


Component output from the Anthems will also be completely disabled if you are playing an HDMI source which is copy protected using the HDCP protocol. It is best to assume all HDMI sources will work this way. So when you do finally switch to your first HDMI source you will also want to switch to running HDMI to the display as well.


So until you get your first HDMI source device hooked up, you will be able to get up to 1080i output to your display from the Anthem when viewing your HD-DVR or when viewing CURRENT HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs, but you can only depend on being able to get 480p output to your display when viewing standard DVDs (or potential future HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs -- obviously you'd switch to HDMI if that happenss).


-------------------------------------------------------------


You should still see improvement on your display even though you can't feed it the native 1080p.


Most of the "heavy lifting" is involved in de-interlacing 480i SDTV to 480p. The Anthems do a spectacular job of that. Scaling to 720p or 1080i is also done extremely well by the Anthems. If you feed your set 720p it will need to scale it to 1080p. If you feed it 1080i it will need to de-interlace it to 1080p. You can't know in advance which of those will give you better results.


Scaling from 720p to 1080p is not that tough but there are certainly bad scalers out there.


De-interlacing from 1080i to 1080p is actually tougher, but since the resolution is already so high the artifacts that might result are not all that obvious anyway.


Now there ARE some TVs out there -- TVs like yours that accept only 1080i and display it as 1080p -- that are really REALLY bad at this. They throw away half the vertical resolution so that what you are actually seeing is more like 540p. I don't know if your TV has this flaw. But if so, feeding it 720p from the Anthems will clearly be superior to feeding it 1080i.


Finally there are the other video processing features the Anthem includes. This would include color space conversion, level adjustments, gamma correction, custom cropping and such. These can make it much more pleasant to run multiple devices to your TV and to view different styles of program content. The idea is that you can set your TV to the one way it works best and leave it to the Anthem to handle the details of converting sources to that.


-----------------------------------------------------------


I think you need to be up front with your Anthem dealer about your concerns here and arrange for some time to try your Component video configuration with your display and sources to see if you can see the benefits. If not you might want to do the conversion to HDMI or the switch to a different TV sooner rather than later, or you might want to hold off on the Anthem style product until you can.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So you verified that your dvd player does not crop any pixels? Which dvd player do you have?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback.



I use a Pioneer Elite DV-59avi and know it crops a bit along the bottom. Pixel cropping for players are mentioned in their reviews in the DVD player benchmark on the Secrets of Home Theater web site.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> PS. If anyone knows the difference between the 50 & 51 Gennum chip please speak up. I'm very curious....



I'm not certain, but I believe it may be as simple as that the 9351 uses less power than the 9350.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

Anyone have a Anthem dealer that gave them a good deal on the AVM50? Want to PM me the details, as I can fly around the country and pick it up.


Thanks


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Im still trying to understand this, with my a2 hddvd player I have it set to pcm and when playing an hddvd sometimes on the d2 display it reads 2.0 and then other times I look over and it reads 5.1. I check the status on screen and when its 2.0 it reads L&R and when in 5.1 obviously it reads L,R,c,ls,lr,s and in 5.1 the status says imput 96kz. Now when in bitstream it only reads 48kz, I also noticed when the a2 is set to bitstream with sdvd the d2 does not read dd 5.1 it mixes pl2x for a true dd movie?
> 
> 
> 
> thanks, one of the bobs



Any update on this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Im still trying to understand this, with my a2 hddvd player I have it set to pcm and when playing an hddvd sometimes on the d2 display it reads 2.0 and then other times I look over and it reads 5.1. I check the status on screen and when its 2.0 it reads L&R and when in 5.1 obviously it reads L,R,c,ls,lr,s and in 5.1 the status says imput 96kz. Now when in bitstream it only reads 48kz, I also noticed when the a2 is set to bitstream with sdvd the d2 does not read dd 5.1 it mixes pl2x for a true dd movie?
> 
> 
> 
> thanks, one of the bobs



One of the folks here who uses an A2 is going to have to tackle this. I'll just make the obvious comments that not all content on these discs is 5.1. Extras content is likely 2.0.


And I believe the A2 is known for upsampling what are actually 48Khz tracks to 96Khz. And as I understand it, it doesn't do it very well. So this is not actually desireable.


That said, the "bitstream" audio will be the "compatibilty" audio track, and that's lower bandwidth than the "real" audio track on the discs. When playing HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs over HDMI to the Anthems what you want is PCM.

--Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One of the folks here who uses an A2 is going to have to tackle this. I'll just make the obvious comments that not all content on these discs is 5.1. Extras content is likely 2.0.
> 
> 
> And I believe the A2 is known for upsampling what are actually 48Khz tracks to 96Khz. And as I understand it, it doesn't do it very well. So this is not actually desireable.
> 
> 
> That said, the "bitstream" audio will be the "compatibilty" audio track, and that's lower bandwidth than the "real" audio track on the discs. When playing HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs over HDMI to the Anthems what you want is PCM.
> 
> --Bob




thanks again Bob! I hope anthem is compensating you for this, cause you are taking some of the load off their tech staff







maybe they will have more time to work on the room eq we are all waiting for.


----------



## psnl1

Thank you very much for the informative reply. You cleared up the component limitations for sure. You also confirmed what I was concerned with the most...that my biggest limitation is probably my TV's inability to accept a 1080p signal. I guess I was a year too early in my purchase. I feel like I'm always chasing the latest and greatest. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *psnl1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for the informative reply. You cleared up the component limitations for sure. You also confirmed what I was concerned with the most...that my biggest limitation is probably my TV's inability to accept a 1080p signal. I guess I was a year too early in my purchase. I feel like I'm always chasing the latest and greatest. Thanks again.



Don't be too quick to assume you have to replace the TV. Mitsubishi has made some pretty good TVs and this may be one of them.


If the de-interlacing in yours is done well, then you will get all the information content in the 1080i signal that you can get into the set with a 1080p signal. And that will be true even for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray from a good player.


Unless you find good info on the appropriate TV forum here, it really is the case that the only way to know is to try it.


However I do think you will be happier switching to HDMI at the first opportunity.

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio

Gents:


Just curious as to how you all have your video processors video default output settings set to DLP 16:9 displays? I am not talkng about the resolution settings, but the gennum settings.


Currently, I have the crop input set to HDMI Auto Detect and the Scale Output set Letterbox/Pillarbox. Everything else is factory default.


I am using a comcast 6412 DVR as the source and HDMI cabling. I just want settings for general TV surfing - where true HD is displayed 16:9 and so on. I find when I adjust the settings such as bypassing the scale output - the picutre becomes a tiny square in the center of the display.


Anyhow, I know I am a novice here but I need a little advice here. Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ddimberio,

The settings you are using are fine. The defaults Anthem provides are intelligently thought out, so don't feel you are missing out on anything by using them.


If you read back a few pages, there are some posts on situations where you might want to try playing around with different Crop Input and Scale Out settings.


The only setting I'd warn you away from is the Scale Out / Zoom setting. Zoom should not be used for normal viewing as it will produce reduced image quality.

--Bob


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *psnl1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a 2006 Mitsubishi WD-73727 display that cannot receive a 1080p signal directly (barring the PC input suggestion on HDMI-2). My understanding is that even though the Mitsu is a 1080p TV, it can only receive either a 1080i or 720p (or lesser) signal and then upconvert internally to display at 1080p.



Just curious, if you're thinking of getting an Anthem, what's stopping you from using the HDMI-2 solution? It's 1080p pure and simple You can even overcome the crippled Mits adjustments by adjusting the Anthem's input/output settings (in the OSD by holding the "7" key), if you're so inclined. I'm feeding 1080p to a WD-52628 and Optoma HD70, for what it's worth.


----------



## Nathan_R

I'm sorry for the double post and I apologize for bringing up the Xbox360 thing again in this thread, but I'm still on a quest to get 1080p from the 360 to my Anthem. My AVM-50's HDMI inputs are all being used be devices that I don't really want to switch over to analog, so I'm stuck with using one of the component inputs for the 360. For what it's worth, I'm not using the component output from the Anthem at all. All of my devices are ouputted over a single HDMI feed from the Anthem.


I've heard conflicting reports on what the 360 outputs over component-- some say that the dashboard will output as 1080p over component and some say it only works at 1080p over VGA. I don't know. As it stands, let's assume I'm just at the dashboard and want to change from 720p or 1080i to 1080p in my display settings. Using a component cable fed to my Anthem, when I switch to 1080p, I get no picture at 1080p and the console reverts to whatever setting I had previous to the 1080p change.


With that said, I'm desparately trying to use the 360's 1080p output into one of the Anthem's component inputs and send that over my single HDMI output.. I have the VGA cable for the Xbox, some VGA->RCA breakout cables, an old VGA->component transcoder, and some male-to-male couplers that I've tried in different combinations to get 1080p transcoded over component. All of which have failed to produce a picture, of course. Has anyone gotten 1080p from the 360 into the Anthem? If it boils down to it, I could purchase one of the VGA->HDMI transcoders, but I'd like to hear from 360 *and* Anthem owners if this will actually work.


Am I SOL?










Thanks.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> yatchaks,
> 
> My guess would be either that Anthem needs to spend a little more time analysing the handshake from the S3 or that you need to upgrade your HDMI cable from the S3. You can do the cable test yourself, but for the rest, you need to contact Anthem.
> 
> --Bob




Bob beat me to the cable point.


Note I did have a blue screen turn on to S3 today, so I'm kicking myself too, but may be latest beta. May go back to 1.11d. I went to list and back and picture came back fine, but I spoke too soon too.


The switching HDMIs on both too is a good idea too.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> It just occured to me, connecting the S3 directly to the TV for few days will tell me if it is an Anthem issue. Worth a try.
> 
> 
> Here is to the thought of losing Anthem's scaler for a few days...



So much for that Idea...


If only a couple days you would be lucky, did direct work?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well in my case I've never explored the I-link stuff so I don't have a good answer for that. But when comparing HDMI audio and either optical or coax SPDIF audio, the audio from both CDs and from standard DVDs is identical. If you've got optical or coax working now there's no point in switching to HDMI audio unless you need to free up an optical or coax input socket on the D2.
> 
> --Bob




Well interestingly enough, I have been sometimes experiencing the wrong optical playing until I start a DVD (assume it's the "use best" logic), I subbed to the HDMI and no issues and great sound. Reference level seemed a little louder, no idea why, but it works great. This was another learn a new thing from Bob every day story


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Am I SOL?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Does it work directly to the set?


Maybe, unfortunately, because I don't think anyone is doing 1080p over component into the Anthem. It's not an accepted standard.


You may want to try a place (check here at AVSforum) or digitalconnections com for a place that takes returns. You will probably do better (cheaper) going VGA-> DVI with a DVI-HDMI dongle. If it's like computers, what I do is use a high bandwidth DVI switch AFTER the Anthem.


----------



## psnl1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just curious, if you're thinking of getting an Anthem, what's stopping you from using the HDMI-2 solution? It's 1080p pure and simple You can even overcome the crippled Mits adjustments by adjusting the Anthem's input/output settings (in the OSD by holding the "7" key), if you're so inclined. I'm feeding 1080p to a WD-52628 and Optoma HD70, for what it's worth.




I wouldn't say that its stopping me...and I would certainly try to go that route, but I wanted to understand the limitations of my system under "normal" conditions.


I was a little confused in that in an earlier post, Bob P. layed out a detailed step by step on how to set up the VP and he started with adjusting the TV and working backwards in the chain toward the Anthem. That made sense to me. But, if using the HDMI-2 cripples the adjustments on the Mits, that won't work. I think what you're saying is that that can be overcome by using adjustments in the Anthem.


Thanks for chiming in!


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So much for that Idea...
> 
> 
> If only a couple days you would be lucky, did direct work?



I haven't tried yet. I did change the setting from 4:4:4 to 4:2:2 within the Anthem Menu. I don't know if this will make a difference.


I'll try one change at a time as to hopefully be sure that the problem is not on my end.


Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I haven't tried yet. I did change the setting from 4:4:4 to 4:2:2 within the Anthem Menu. I don't know if this will make a difference.
> 
> 
> I'll try one change at a time as to hopefully be sure that the problem is not on my end.
> 
> 
> Mark



The data format change is unlikely to alter things, but one thing that might be worth trying is to set Auto Dig = NO in the Setup / Source Setup page for that input. This keeps the Anthem from going through the logic to select digital audio (HDMI) vs. analog audio according to whether it sees a digital signal. This might be meaningful since I doubt the S3 has digital audio output, except possibly for sound efffects, when you are in its on screen displays.


This is a long shot, but as long as you are just trying things while waiting for the next software package from Anthem....

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The data format change is unlikely to alter things, but one thing that might be worth trying is to set Auto Dig = NO in the Setup / Source Setup page for that input. This keeps the Anthem from going through the logic to select digital audio (HDMI) vs. analog audio according to whether it sees a digital signal. This might be meaningful since I doubt the S3 has digital audio output, except possibly for sound efffects, when you are in its on screen displays.
> 
> 
> This is a long shot, but as long as you are just trying things while waiting for the next software package from Anthem....
> 
> --Bob



I would say hook up the optical and leave it on that vs over the HDMI, but it appears your issues (unlike half of my old issues) are video based, so I don't know how much it would help (though one less variable).


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just curious, if you're thinking of getting an Anthem, what's stopping you from using the HDMI-2 solution? It's 1080p pure and simple You can even overcome the crippled Mits adjustments by adjusting the Anthem's input/output settings (in the OSD by holding the "7" key), if you're so inclined. I'm feeding 1080p to a WD-52628 and Optoma HD70, for what it's worth.



Nathan...do you still get a message on your display describing some sort of error when you are using this method of feeding 1080p to your display. Is it annoying?


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nathan...do you still get a message on your display describing some sort of error when you are using this method of feeding 1080p to your display. Is it annoying?



I programmed a "TV OK" macro button on my Harmony that makes the message go away shortly after everything turns on. But yes, it's annoying.


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I programmed a "TV OK" macro button on my Harmony that makes the message go away shortly after everything turns on. But yes, it's annoying.




Is it only when you turn the TV on?..or does it occur every time you change the channel?


----------



## Nathan_R

It happens when I first fire up the Anthem (or TV) and if I change the output resolution of the Anthem.


----------



## Ed Weinman

Quick question re: the analog inputs to the D1/D2...(sorry if this has already been discussed)...the Panasonic HD player has seven analog outputs; the D1 (which I have) has 5 analog inputs. However, the manual section relating to "2-ch Balanced and 6-ch Single-Ended Analog Audio Inputs" says, in part, that "if unused for (the heading) purpose, the Front-Left and Front-Right connections can be used as an additional 2-channel input."


Does this mean that the D1 will accept the two additional inputs increasing the total inputs from the Panasonic from 5 to the 7 channels?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Does this mean that the D1 will accept the two additional inputs increasing the total inputs from the Panasonic from 5 to the 7 channels?



I believe you might be right - but lets let *MR. Anthem -*
*Bob Pariseau* chime in here.


I stopped using Analog In when I sold my MC-12b.


Of course - I would highly recommend the D1 to D2 Upgrade [GRIN]!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question re: the analog inputs to the D1/D2...(sorry if this has already been discussed)...the Panasonic HD player has seven analog outputs; the D1 (which I have) has 5 analog inputs. However, the manual section relating to "2-ch Balanced and 6-ch Single-Ended Analog Audio Inputs" says, in part, that "if unused for (the heading) purpose, the Front-Left and Front-Right connections can be used as an additional 2-channel input."
> 
> 
> Does this mean that the D1 will accept the two additional inputs increasing the total inputs from the Panasonic from 5 to the 7 channels?



That is certainly not the case on the D2 and I'd be very surprised if it was the case on the D1. You can only get 6 channels of analog audio (5 mains and the subwoofer channel) as input to the Main path at one time.


What they are saying is that if you have no need to use the 6-channel analog audio input to connect a 6-channel analog audio output device then you can use just the Front-L and Front-R pair out of those 6 sockets as another *STEREO* analog input. This would be identical to what would happen if you play (unprocessed) stereo content from a 6-channel analog audio output device -- i.e., the other 4 input cables are unused during that.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is certainly not the case on the D2 and I'd be very surprised if it was the case on the D1.
> 
> --Bob


*AS ALWAYS - Bob is CORRECT.*


But I did go back to the manual to see what it said.


I did not check the manual because I thought there

was the SLIGHTEST possibility Bob was wrong. I wanted

to see what it said that led me to the WRONG answer.


I honestly had to read it three times - to get it correct.

The manual is correct and Bob is correct. Maybe some

better words would have made it a wee bit more clear.


NOW I GET IT!


----------



## dmorse4765

I just received a email from Nick at Anthem regarding my satellite 1080i problem and the slow speed of switching inputs. Last friday he had me send him my settings editor and live video settings. To day he informed me that my frame lock was set to auto and had me change it to "off". All problems are now solved aand I can watch everything at 1080i. D2 is a great product and Anthem support is even greater.


Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dmorse4765,

Cool! But it DOES make me wonder what your satellite box was sending to the Anthem that confused auto frame lock so much....

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht

The above reminded me on the S3. Nick recommended Frame lock to off given the multiple scan rates. I always had it to off, but one more thing to check. ...


----------



## bool

I am trying to get my connections straight for my "theater" setup in my basement and want to use the AVM50 as the hub. The question I have is if I hook up a Dish HD receiver via HDMI into the AVM 50 and then hook the HDMI out to a Gefen 2x2 HDMI splitter/switcher which in turn connects to 2 TVs, does the AVM50 have to be turned on for the tvs to function (my guess is yes)? My reason for asking is I am trying to set this up so my wife can just turn on the tv and watch without having to run the entire system.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes the AVM-50 has to be on and the source (the Dish box in your case) has to be selected to get an HDMI signal through the AVM-50.


Running HDMI output through a splitter to 2 TVs may not be straightforward due to HDMI copy protection and signal setup issues. We have at least one poster here who apparently has managed to make it work, but you should be aware that this is something of a feat.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am trying to get my connections straight for my "theater" setup in my basement and want to use the AVM50 as the hub. The question I have is if I hook up a Dish HD receiver via HDMI into the AVM 50 and then hook the HDMI out to a Gefen 2x2 HDMI splitter/switcher which in turn connects to 2 TVs, does the AVM50 have to be turned on for the tvs to function (my guess is yes)? My reason for asking is I am trying to set this up so my wife can just turn on the tv and watch without having to run the entire system.
> 
> 
> Thanks



You would need the splitter to split before the AVM (which removes the Hub type idea) & you would need someway to remotely control the dish box. However, I have had at best mixed results with Gefen splitters, so you may want to get from a company you can return it to. Unless you have a dish model that can put out two different sources you may also be fighting for control of the box O) It would be easier if the output to the second TV was component, but still require remotely setting zone on AVM and controlling device remotely. Ultimately have a second box at the TV is probably the easiest, based on my experience trying to do what you are trying to do. Hopefully the D3/AVM-60 will have 2nd HDMI out (no breath holding), but you would still need remote turn on of the AVM & Sat box & channel control.


----------



## BillW

Has anyone gotten the D2 to sucessfully send out and have accepted 1366x768 to a Pany using the DVI board. It works well at 1280x720 but no matter what I fiddle with settings wise I get no signal when at it's native rate. The HDMI cable is from Blue jeans cable as is the HDMI-DVI adapter. I noticed it also works under "custom resolution" but then under the 7 info key it states the output signal is unknown. Why is that?


Thanks,

Bill


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone gotten the D2 to sucessfully send out and have accepted 1366x768 to a Pany using the DVI board. It works well at 1280x720 but no matter what I fiddle with settings wise I get no signal when at it's native rate. The HDMI cable is from Blue jeans cable as is the HDMI-DVI adapter. I noticed it also works under "custom resolution" but then under the 7 info key it states the output signal is unknown. Why is that?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bill



Not all 1366x768 signal timings are the same. Anthem chose to put one particular set of signal timings into the version accessible from the Video Output menu. Unfortunately for Panny owners, the Panny requires a different set of signal timings. These can be set up as a "Custom" video output using the Live Video Settings editor program from a PC (Anthem software V1.10 or later).


It would probably be better if the Anthem reported it was using a Custom output instead of an Unknown output in that case, but if your Custom settings are working that's pretty minor, right?

--Bob


----------



## rlockshin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just received a email from Nick at Anthem regarding my satellite 1080i problem and the slow speed of switching inputs. Last friday he had me send him my settings editor and live video settings. To day he informed me that my frame lock was set to auto and had me change it to "off". All problems are now solved aand I can watch everything at 1080i. D2 is a great product and Anthem support is even greater.
> 
> 
> Dick



Which menu is frame lock in? I want to check my settings

Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rlockshin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Which menu is frame lock in? I want to check my settings
> 
> Thanks



For each overlayed input: Video Source Adjust menu / Output panel. Frame Lock = OFF is the default setting.

--Bob


----------



## bool

Thanks for the info. I think I am going to try and split the HDMI signal out of the satellite box and hope for the best. If that doesn't work, try to split it out of the AVM50 and setup my Pronto to automatically turn everthing on so my wife can easily operate it. Finally if all else fails, run components out and try to split that signal and have to run seperate audio lines to the second tv (won't have to deal with HDMI at all then, but I would need more cables!) . I really do not want to have a seperate box since either tv 1 or tv 2 will be run and not both simultaneously.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. I think I am going to try and split the HDMI signal out of the satellite box and hope for the best. If that doesn't work, try to split it out of the AVM50 and setup my Pronto to automatically turn everthing on so my wife can easily operate it. Finally if all else fails, run components out and try to split that signal and have to run seperate audio lines to the second tv (won't have to deal with HDMI at all then, but I would need more cables!) . I really do not want to have a seperate box since either tv 1 or tv 2 will be run and not both simultaneously.



Sounds like a good plan.


----------



## Nevr2Big

and now for a novice's stupid question:


I've got the new D2 out of box and am going through setup.


I have had two episodes where there was a "lock-up/freeze" such that unit did not respond to remote or button commands and I have had to unplug to reset. Also have had the unit not respond at all to the remote such that I had to remove the batteries for a remote reset (which then worked properly).


Any ideas what's going on?


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You may have a bad remote or a bad set of batteries. See if the D2 responds to its own front panel buttons.


Also be aware that the D2 remote can control multiple devices and that the D2 itself is like 3 different devices -- Main path, Zone 2, and Zone 3. The buttons along the top of the remote tell the remote which device you want it to control. Do not confuse them with the buttons along the bottom of the remote that tell the D2 which input device you want to select for listening/viewing.


If the D2 appears unresponsive to the remote, first press the "Main" button in the green outlined area at the top of the remote. This tells the remote you want to control the D2 itself. and sets things to control the D2's Main path. Alternatively, press the Main button on the D2 itself to tell it you want to control Main path functions using the front panel buttons.


If problems persist, disconnect all inputs and outputs from the D2 and try operating it for a while using the Setup menu as viewed through the D2's own front panel. If that seems to work, double check each input and output connection carefully to make sure there is no chance things are being shorted somewhere.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You may have a bad remote or a bad set of batteries. See if the D2 responds to its own front panel buttons.
> 
> 
> Also be aware that the D2 remote can control multiple devices and that the D2 itself is like 3 different devices -- Main path, Zone 2, and Zone 3. The buttons along the top of the remote tell the remote which device you want it to control. Do not confuse them with the buttons along the bottom of the remote that tell the D2 which input device you want to select for listening/viewing.
> 
> 
> If the D2 appears unresponsive to the remote, first press the "Main" button in the green outlined area at the top of the remote. This tells the remote you want to control the D2 itself. and sets things to control the D2's Main path. Alternatively, press the Main button on the D2 itself to tell it you want to control Main path functions using the front panel buttons.
> 
> 
> If problems persist, disconnect all inputs and outputs from the D2 and try operating it for a while using the Setup menu as viewed through the D2's own front panel. If that seems to work, double check each input and output connection carefully to make sure there is no chance things are being shorted somewhere.
> 
> --Bob




With my D2, about 2 months ago, one of my 2 remotes for the D2 stopped working..


Few months before that, had a few situations where remote would not respond. After restarting the D2, all worked for a while..


Then one day, no amount of restarting, or playing with D2 and remote helped.. Remote died...


It was good that my D2 came with 2 remotes...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In the SACD over HDMI thread there's a comment that SACD playback over HDMI from the Sony PS3 sounds significantly better than from the Oppo 970. See this post and beyond:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9782257 


MDREW's receiver is a Marantz 8001.


Since I believe we have some folks here with both hooked up, I'd appreciate getting some comments. If confirmed, that would be the first significant ***** I know of in the quality of playback from the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> and now for a novice's stupid question:
> 
> 
> I've got the new D2 out of box and am going through setup.
> 
> 
> I have had two episodes where there was a "lock-up/freeze" such that unit did not respond to remote or button commands and I have had to unplug to reset. Also have had the unit not respond at all to the remote such that I had to remove the batteries for a remote reset (which then worked properly).
> 
> 
> Any ideas what's going on?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I had the same thing happen about a month after setting up. It turned out to be the batteries (I used the ones in the package). As soon as I replaced them, voila! the D2 responded again. (However, the D2 DID respond to front buttons.)


Now, I have also had the D2 freeze up. Every time it has been apparently related to HDMI oddities. Now that I'm not changing things around all the time, I'm not seeing lockups.


----------



## RIppolito

Please excuse me if this has been asked / answered somewhere else, but...


Does anybody have experience with running 1080i through the Gennum processor? I primarily watch HD-DVD and 1080i via digital cable (both via HDMI) to a Pioneer Elite 1140 plasma. I've read a lot of good things about the processor's ability to scale / upgrade 480i input, but since I don't watch much of that, I'm trying to understand the benefit, if any, of getting the D2 vs the AVM 40.


Your help will be greatly appreciated.


Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Please excuse me if this has been asked / answered somewhere else, but...
> 
> 
> Does anybody have experience with running 1080i through the Gennum processor? I primarily watch HD-DVD and 1080i via digital cable (both via HDMI) to a Pioneer Elite 1140 plasma. I've read a lot of good things about the processor's ability to scale / upgrade 480i input, but since I don't watch much of that, I'm trying to understand the benefit, if any, of getting the D2 vs the AVM 40.
> 
> 
> Your help will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Ron



Ron the advantage is limited, first because you plasma will not accept its "native" resolution as a valid video input, *AND* because it has a fine scaler in its own right that will down-scale the 1080i input to its native resolution and do a good job of it.


Now this assumes that when you say you are watching cable at 1080i you mean you are watching HDTV channels broadcast at 1080i. If you are letting the cable box de-interlace SDTV channels and scale them to 1080i, or letting it scale 720p HDTV broadcast to 1080i, then you need to know that the de-interlacing and scaling in these boxes is pretty bad.


Now with some cable boxes you can set them to pass through exactly what they receive on each different channel: 480i for SDTV, and either 720p or 1080i for HDTV. And as I recall the Pioneer will accept HDMI 480i as input. So set up that way your Pioneer would be doing all the work.


But it is likely that the Anthem does a better job of de-interlacing SDTV 480i to 480p (a necessary step before it can be scaled). So that's one point of advantage.


The same would be true if you play standard DVDs at HDMI 480i into the Anthem.


But again you can't get the full advantage since the Pioneer will have to scale again whatever video you feed it. You would likely feed it 720p, or possibly 1080i from the Anthem, and the Anthem will do an excellent job of converting whatever video source you give it to that. But the Pioneer then has to scale that one more time.


-------------------------------------------------------------


Now scaling and de-interlacing aside, the video solution in the D2 provides some extra processing that you might find useful. The ability to level match all video sources to the one best style of input for your plasma is no small thing. This includes automatically dealing with "color space" and "data format" issues. Custom cropping is fun at times when watching movies on SDTV channels. And special processing features such as Gamma Correction might prove useful. In addition the Anthem gives you more flexibility for hooking up additional stuff in the future, even just for experiment.


-------------------------------------------------------------


That's the video side. The audio side of HDMI input will be the same if you go with the AVM-40, except for the differences in quality of audio processing in the D2. The D2 has a more "exotic" audio solution -- better power supplies, more processing power, higher internal processing rate, better digital to analog output stage. But there's quite a bit of price difference if you aren't really taking advantage of the video solution as well.


I use a Fujitsu plasma which also won't accept its exact "native" resolution and also has a particular good internal scaling solution. The Fujitsu's native resolution is 1366x768p, but the closest it will accept is 1360x768p (which it displays without stretching). I'm very familiar with what the Fujitsu's own scaler can do, and I like what the D2 does quite a bit better. But if I had to feed 1080i to the Fujitsu I'm not at all sure I'd still see the advantage of having the D2 in the path.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm surprised we don't have any V1.11f software reports. I'm trying to figure out how close we might be getting to a "real" release available for download on the web site.

--Bob


----------



## barrykeck

I just started upgrading after 10 years, so this is all new to me. I just hooked up my AVM-50 amd MCA-50. My other components are: SAT - Dish HD PVR; DVD - oppo 970hd, TV - Pioneer Elite Pro-HD1. All connections to and from the AVM-50 are HDMI. I set my DishBox and oppo to output 480i and set the AVM-50 to output 1080p/60 to my plasma - Very Nice (I checked -There is no 1080i bug). I will tweak the video settings later. My first problem is this. When I first hooked up my DishBox- I used component video and Optic Cable. When I put on a dolby digital 5.1 station. The AVM switched automatically to Dolby Digital 5.1. Now that I have it hooked up with HDMI - The AVM stays at Anthem: Cinema. When I change modes the AVM reads: "Mode for 2 chan input: Anthem Cinema" or whatever mode I switch to. It always reads Mode for 2 chan input and it never changes to DD5.1 . This is my first time using HDMI cables. Is there a SAT input setting that sets the HDMI audio to digital, because it seems that I have something set to Analog.


I checked my DISHbox and the Dolby Digital setting was set to DD5.1/PCM. I set it to just DD5.1. That did not do anything. Any pointers would be aprreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrykeck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just started upgrading after 10 years, so this is all new to me. I just hooked up my AVM-50 amd MCA-50. My other components are: SAT - Dish HD PVR; DVD - oppo 970hd, TV - Pioneer Elite Pro-HD1. All connections to and from the AVM-50 are HDMI. I set my DishBox and oppo to output 480i and set the AVM-50 to output 1080p/60 to my plasma - Very Nice (I checked -There is no 1080i bug). I will tweak the video settings later. My first problem is this. When I first hooked up my DishBox- I used component video and Optic Cable. When I put on a dolby digital 5.1 station. The AVM switched automatically to Dolby Digital 5.1. Now that I have it hooked up with HDMI - The AVM stays at Anthem: Cinema. When I change modes the AVM reads: "Mode for 2 chan input: Anthem Cinema" or whatever mode I switch to. It always reads Mode for 2 chan input and it never changes to DD5.1 . This is my first time using HDMI cables. Is there a SAT input setting that sets the HDMI audio to digital, because it seems that I have something set to Analog.
> 
> 
> I checked my DISHbox and the Dolby Digital setting was set to DD5.1/PCM. I set it to just DD5.1. That did not do anything. Any pointers would be aprreciated.



Your Dish box probably has a SEPARATE setting for HDMI audio output. By default it is likely set to convert 5.1 audio programs to a 2-channel stereo "downmix" which gets sent over the HDMI as 2-channel PCM -- which is what the Anthem is reporting. This is done for people who connect HDMI directly to their TV and want stereo audio for the TV's speakers while ALSO being able to get mutli-channel audio over optical digital audio cable to a receiver. If your Dish box works this way, you just need to find the additional digital audio setting for HDMI. The choices will likely be Dolby Digital vs. stereo, or "bitstream" vs. "PCM". What you want is the Dolby Digital or "bitstream" setting. This will send Dolby 5.1 (or 2.0) audio if that's what's coming in on the channel you are watching or it will send 2-channel PCM (stereo) or one channel PCM (mono) for other channels.


Now there ARE some older HDMI source devices that don't support more than 2-channel PCM output over HDMI under the theory that their HDMI output would only be directly connected to TVs, which typically can only handle stereo input for their own speakers. If your Dish box is of this vintage it should warn you in its manual that if you want to get multi-channel sound you need to hook up BOTH the HDMI cable (for video) and an optical digital audio cable (for audio).


Even if your Dish box sends 5.1 over HDMI (which is likely once you find the right setting), you might want to hook up optical audio cable instead ANYWAY. You would do this if you find you are getting an extra delay after video starts and before audio starts and you find this extra audio startup delay annoying.

--Bob


----------



## barrykeck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Even if your Dish box sends 5.1 over HDMI (which is likely once you find the right setting), you might want to hook up optical audio cable instead ANYWAY. You would do this if you find you are getting an extra delay after video starts and before audio starts and you find this extra audio startup delay annoying.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. The DISH PVR is their newest model. After work, I'll go home and check the manual again and try to find the HDMI settings. And I DO NOTICE the startup delay, it was weird. I'll probably hook up the OPTIC cable also.


----------



## ensmarcum

What displays actually accept the 1080p resolution as a native resolution, without the tv doing anything but displaying the signal from the d2? I want to upgrade my display soon but I dont want to get a tv or projector that wont accept the 1080p as it's native resolution without doing something to the signal. Thanks. Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrykeck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. The DISH PVR is their newest model. After work, I'll go home and check the manual again and try to find the HDMI settings. And I DO NOTICE the startup delay, it was weird. I'll probably hook up the OPTIC cable also.



You will still have a 1 or 2 second delay for the video to start each time you change channels where the new channel is a different output resolution from the prior channel. This is just the HDMI connection getting re-established. This is a minor nuisance (once you get familiar with it) and is well worth the price for getting "native" signals from the Dish box to the Anthem. But yes, if there's an extra audio startup delay on top of that, that's something many find too annoying.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz

Sony SXRD XBR2 60"


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What displays actually accept the 1080p resolution as a native resolution, without the tv doing anything but displaying the signal from the d2? I want to upgrade my display soon but I dont want to get a tv or projector that wont accept the 1080p as it's native resolution without doing something to the signal. Thanks. Rob



There are quite a few now. Check the front projector, rear projector, or flat panel forums according to your interest. For flat panels, we've had some comments from folks here using the Pioneer Elite FHD-1. There were comments just a few pages back in this thread on various front screen projectors as well.


I plan to stick with my 768p Fujitsu plasma until I can get a plasma (or better) that does 1920x1080p at a /120Hz refresh rate and does it properly. I don't know of one of those yet, but they are clearly on the way.

--Bob


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I plan to stick with my 768p Fujitsu plasma until I can get a plasma (or better) that does 1920x1080p at a /120Hz refresh rate and does it properly. I don't know of one of those yet, but they are clearly on the way.
> 
> --Bob



Bob: You're in the same situation as I am. The only difference is I want to replace my 50" Fujitsu plasma with a 65" display ... and and I'm impatient!










The literature on the new Fujitsu 65" 1080p PDP, ready to be sold at the end of this month, says it has "a 24p/30p mode for film based sources".


Given that it's *$18,000*, I'm guessing the it will refresh film based material (24fps) at 72 Hz and video based material (30fps) at 60Hz..


Interestingly, I can't find anything in the Fujitsu literature that indicates the refresh rate. As you know, some displays claim they accept 24p/30p, but they display at 60Hz, which is useless. I'm convinced Fujitsu would not do that.


LCDs seem to be ahead of the curve, as far as displaying at 120Hz.
Refresh rates of 120Hz of LCD TVs 



> Quote:
> Sharp's flagship Aquos 92 series not only produces 120Hz images, it is also equipped with five wavelength backlights. Sony's 70-inch KDL-70XBR3 utilizes the Motionflow 120Hz technology with 10-bit panel and Triluminos LED backlight components. Philip's 42-inch Full Surround Ambilight also employs the 120Hz technology.
> 
> 
> LGE's LY3D and LB4D series, which includes 47-, 52- and 57- inch 1080p LCD TVs, makes use of the TruMotion Drive 120Hz technology. JVC displayed a 120Hz LCD TV during 2005. This year, they presented a 37-inch full HD 120Hz LCD TV with an LED backlight structure.
> 
> 
> Other models included Toshiba's Cinema Series Regza 1080p 42-, 46-, 52- and 57-inch models. Samsung's new 70-inch LCD TV and Hitachi's 32- and 37-inch LCD TVs added the 120Hz function as well.
> 
> 
> As the American ATSC and European DVB-T digital broadcast standards are not transmitted in the 120Hz format, it is expected that the 120Hz refresh rate will be primarily seen in flagship models.



The other problem is these sets are/will be EXPENSIVE. Is it really worth waiting for a 65 inch + 1080p that displays at a /120Hz refesh rate? I know this is an individual decision, but it seems as if this size display is about 3 years away if you want one for


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Beware that these 120Hz LCDs do that to try to speed up the pixel transitions -- i.e., to eliminate motion blur while still achieving high output.


I'm not at all sure these actually attempt to do film content detection properly to extract the 24Hz film stream and frame duplicate it differently than a normal video stream.


As for cost, the rate at which display prices are dropping right now is faster than just about anything else.

--Bob


----------



## Lars158

I have just installed my AVM50 and must say I am overall very impressed. It works great with the HD sources, but not so when using 480i/576i sources over component. I have several sources that are switched over a KDS Flash Matrix Switch (KD-MSW8x3) with different resolutions (480i, 576i, 480p, 720p and 1080i), connected into the Anthem via Component (including several DVD players). It turns out that the AVM50 reads the 480i signal as "480ix1440" and the 576i signal as "576ix1152". This obviously corrupts the processing of the signal and the output on the screen looks like crap... I suppose this could be a compatibility issue with the KDS Switcher, but may also be a configuration issue on the AVM50. Any ideas/hints how to approach this problem?


Thanks, /LB


PS1: I have used the same KDS switch with other video processors and directly into projectors with no issues detecting the 480i/576i signals correctly. The KDS switch also officially supports all these signal types.

PS2: I am using software v1.11e (had the same problem with v1.11c)


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I've called a couple of times this afternoon. Waiting for the callback.
> 
> 
> I'll let you know what the Sat STB test shows, just for completion. I appreciate all the in-depth help.



Hi zzzzdoc, it appears I have the same problem you experienced when using 480i over component (the AVM50 detect is as 480ix1440) with very poor picture output as result. This is consistent with all 480i/576i sources I have over component, including Sony Mega Changers, Escinet DVDM-100, and OPPO DVD Player. When I feed the AVM50 480i over HDMI everything is fine, so it's only an issue with component...


Did you ever get this resolved in your setup and if so what's the trick?


Your help would be appreciated, /LB


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have just installed my AVM50 and must say I am overall very impressed. It works great with the HD sources, but not so when using 480i/576i sources over component. I have several sources that are switched over a KDS Flash Matrix Switch (KD-MSW8x3) with different resolutions (480i, 576i, 480p, 720p and 1080i), connected into the Anthem via Component (including several DVD players). It turns out that the AVM50 reads the 480i signal as "480ix1440" and the 576i signal as "576ix1152". This obviously corrupts the processing of the signal and the output on the screen looks like crap... I suppose this could be a compatibility issue with the KDS Switcher, but may also be a configuration issue on the AVM50. Any ideas/hints how to approach this problem?
> 
> 
> Thanks, /LB
> 
> 
> PS1: I have used the same KDS switch with other video processors and directly into projectors with no issues detecting the 480i/576i signals correctly. The KDS switch also officially supports all these signal types.
> 
> PS2: I am using software v1.11e (had the same problem with v1.11c)



Update 1: I today bypassed the KSD Switch and the problem is still there (I should have tested this before reporting the problem yesterday), so we can rule out any compatibility issues with the KSD unit. I now have the OPPO DV-970HD connected directly to the AVM50 via Component and when feeding 480i the AVM50 detect 480ix1440 frame with a very poor end result as the deinterlacing is based on incorrect format (should of course be detected as 480ix720).


Update 2: When feeding 576i the AVM50 detect is as a 576ix1440 frame (I incorrectly stated in previous posts it was detected as 576ix1152). Either way it's still a problem as it should be decoded as 576ix720...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Lars158,

ZZZZDOC reported that his problem, which does indeed sound like yours, was fixed by software V1.11e.


Did your install of V1.11e complete without problems? If you are not sure, it wouldn't hurt to re-install V1.11e again.


Another thing to check is to go into the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) for each source causing problems and confirm that Frame Lock = OFF is set in the Output panel. This is the default setting, but it might have gotten changed to Auto by accident. This shouldn't make a difference, but we had one surprising report that it did.


But I think what you'll need to do is work this a bit more with Anthem. It sounds like whatever they fixed in V1.11e is not completely effective for Component 480i input.

--Bob


----------



## dknight

Hi guys, I just took delivery of my D2 this week and I'm loving it already. Moved from a Lexicon MC-12 and am very impressed sonically.


Most of my HDMI devices are working well, but my Toshiba XA2 HD-DVD player is very quirky with the D2. It sometimes take a lot of work to get any video via HDMI (sometimes I need to stop the player and go to the XA2 setup menu before I see anything). I also have yet to get any sound via HDMI despite trying just about every combination of audio options on the XA2 audio setup menu. I don't think it is a cable or D2 config issue, since the same input/cable works perfectly with my PS3.


I'm running the latest beta firmware that Nick just emailed me a couple of days ago - 1.11f.


Anybody have any suggestions on what to try with the XA2? From searching the thread it sounds as if there were some problems but they were fixed in an earlier beta firmware than the one I have.


Thanks in advance.


-Dave


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lars158,
> 
> ZZZZDOC reported that his problem, which does indeed sound like yours, was fixed by software V1.11e.
> 
> 
> Did your install of V1.11e complete without problems? If you are not sure, it wouldn't hurt to re-install V1.11e again.
> 
> 
> Another thing to check is to go into the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) for each source causing problems and confirm that Frame Lock = OFF is set in the Output panel. This is the default setting, but it might have gotten changed to Auto by accident. This shouldn't make a difference, but we had one surprising report that it did.
> 
> 
> But I think what you'll need to do is work this a bit more with Anthem. It sounds like whatever they fixed in V1.11e is not completely effective for Component 480i input.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks for your suggestions! Just to make sure I did reinstalled the v11.e software (the installation is indeed successful) and also double checked the settings for FrameLock and they are all set to OFF for my 480i sources. So, unfortunately did this not solve the issue at hand.


I can see from other postings that a new version of the software, v1.11f has been released. Any information what changed from v1.11e to 1.11f? Perhaps there is something in this new release that will address these 480i over component issues (I hope)...


----------



## markbic

Thanks to Bob I found the AVM-50. I pulled the trigger and have an AVM-50 on order. I have to wait 2 weeks. That should give me plenty of time to read through most of the thread and be ready with any tweaks.


I will be hooking up to a 52" Sony XBR2 LCD. If anyone has one I would be grateful for any tips!


Bob - Thanks again for pointing me to Anthem!!!


Mark


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guys, I just took delivery of my D2 this week and I'm loving it already. Moved from a Lexicon MC-12 and am very impressed sonically.
> 
> 
> I don't think it is a cable or D2 config issue, since the same input/cable works perfectly with my PS3.
> 
> 
> 
> -Dave



Don't discount the cable so fast - even if you used the cable

with a different device. I have found even the best HDMI

cable themselves can be quirky. I have a Pioneer BDP-HD1

and a Toshiba HD-A1 feeding my D2 via HDMI. Out of the

blue - my Pio input to the D2 seemed to get flaky. I reseated

the HDMI cable in the Pio and all is well AGAIN.


As for not getting audio over HDMI - there are D2 Menus

for configuring that. Double check your Input Settings.

*I ALSO Upgraded from a MC-12b to a D2.*


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't discount the cable so fast - even if you used the cable
> 
> with a different device. I have found even the best HDMI
> 
> cable themselves can be quirky. I have a Pioneer BDP-HD1
> 
> and a Toshiba HD-A1 feeding my D2 via HDMI. Out of the
> 
> blue - my Pio input to the D2 seemed to get flaky. I reseated
> 
> the HDMI cable in the Pio and all is well AGAIN.
> 
> 
> As for not getting audio over HDMI - there are D2 Menus
> 
> for configuring that. Double check your Input Settings.
> 
> *I ALSO Upgraded from a MC-12b to a D2.*




a lot of these flakey occurences are characteristics of hdmi no matter what you use.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The HDMI connector is just a friction fit and it is very sensitive to whether or not it is fully seated. It is not uncommon for an HDMI plug to work loose just a little bit under strain from the cable or even vibration. And if so, you will lose the signal. As you can imagine, some HDMI plugs/sockets have tighter fit than others.


If this becomes a nuisance, consider supporting your HDMI plug in the socket by using twist ties to attach the HDMI cable (near the socket) to something else such as a nearby cable. Do this so that the plug is held firmly in the HDMI socket -- straight in -- without being pressed or pulled in any direction.


Personally I think the mechanical design of the HDMI connector is one of the worst things about the whole standard.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Personally I think the mechanical design of the HDMI connector is one of the worst things about the whole standard.
> 
> --Bob



On most of my HDMI Equipment I can use the TRICK

Cable and Ball Latches shown in the Link Below.

http://www.bestdealcables.com/hdmiballmount.aspx 


However - the Anthem D2 dose not have the needed HDMI

screw to allow the Ball to screw in


----------



## LEVESQUE

dknight


Bes ure to use "PCM" for HDMI multi-channel audio in the HD-XA2, and not "Auto". The "Auto" setting in the XA2 is NOT working like the "Auto" setting of the Toshiba HD-A1, and that's confusing alot of peoples (and causing alot of headaches to some others).


"Auto" in the XA2 with HDMI 1.3 will allow (supposedly) the newest HD codecs (DTS-HD and MA, Dolby TrueHD, DD+) to be transmitted digitally as native bitstreams in the future. And Auto was causing me headaches also with my D2. I'm now using "PCM" in the XA2 and it's working flawlessly for me.


And also, don't use "Auto-Dig" in the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

From discussions with another poster, some interesting results for folks who do not yet have an HDMI display:


Suppose you have an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player with both Component and HDMI outputs that has the characteristic that BOTH of these outputs are live at the same time if both are hooked up -- presuming you are playing any of the current HD-DVD or Blu-Ray titles which don't yet prohibit high-def Component video output. The player will also need an optical digital audio output.


Without an HDMI display you will find that you can't mix HDMI audio input with Component video input in the Anthem (due to HDMI copy protection). So typically you would hook Component video and either multi-channel analog audio or optical digital audio to the Anthem and then Component video to your display. This would work, but you can't get lossless DIGITAL audio that way. You either get the "compatibility" digital audio track over the optical connection or you get whatever quality of analog audio output the player produces according to the quality of its own analog audio output stage.


There's an alternative, however:


Run HDMI to the Anthem and set HDMI Repeater=NO on that input so that the HDMI connection will stay live even though you don't have an HDMI TV connected to the Anthem output. The Anthem lies to the player and says it is directly connected to a TV. That gets lossless audio over HDMI into the Anthem. Meanwhile you can run Component video directly to the TV. That gets high def video to the TV since both player outputs are active at the same time.


That's cool by itself, but since you don't have video running through the Anthem you can't use any of the processing in the Anthem. This may not be a problem for playing HD-DVD or Blu-Ray movies but it would be annoying if you wanted to use the video solution in the Anthem while playing standard DVDs in this player.


But there's another way to go.


Hook up BOTH HDMI and Component to the Anthem. You will also need to hook up optical digital audio to the Anthem. Finally you will need to run TWO sets of Component video to your display -- one from the Anthem Main path output and one from the Anthem Zone 2 output.


To play HD-DVD or Blu-Ray movies, set the player to high def output (on both the Component and HDMI outputs) and set it to send lossless PCM digital audio over the HDMI output. Set up an input device on the Anthem (DVD for example) so that this particular HDMI input goes to the scaler. This is a necessary step to access the HDMI audio on that input. Once again, set HDMI Repeater=NO so that there's no problem due to not having a TV on the Anthem's HDMI output. Set audio to use the digital audio coming in on the HDMI. Meanwhile ALSO enter the Component input socket set you used to connect the player to the Anthem in the Component input line. Finally set Zone 2 output to be the UNprocessed version of the Main path. You do this in the Setup/Video Output menu. Zone 2 has to be UNprocessed for this to work. Note that this also means you can not get the Anthem On Screen Display on that output.


Set this way, when you select this input device on the Main path the HDMI will bring in audio and the HDMI video will be discarded (since there's no HDMI TV connected, and copy protected HDMI input content can not be sent to a Component output). The Main Component ouput will, thus, be turned off. But the SEPARATE Component video you connected will still be LIVE, and will go UNprocessed to the Zone 2 output! Finally select the input on the TV that you have connected to the Anthem's Zone 2 output.


You can't process the high def video "passed through" this way, so this is equivalent to running Component directly from the player to the TV. There's no way to use HDMI for audio and ALSO process Component video through the Anthem. HDMI copy protection won't let you mix HDMI audio with video from any other source. But set up as above, the Component video goes unprocessed through to the Zone 2 output anyway.


The reason for doing all this is for when you want to play standard DVDs.


To play standard DVDs, set the player to send 480i over Component video and "bitstream" digital audio over the optical digital audio cable. Meanwhile set a second input device on the Anthem (perhaps DVD2) to send the appropriate Component input to the scaler and to use the optical digital audio input for audio. Finally select the input on the TV that you have connected to the Anthem's Main Component output.


This is the normal setup for processing Component video along with "bitstream" digital audio from a player. The audio (and video) coming in on the HDMI cable is ignored. The Zone 2 output would have an UNprocessed version of the Component input on it, but you ignore that by switching the TV to its other Component input. As usual, the Anthem video output settings would be set to produce the best output resolution, etc., for your display on that Main Component output.


To switch from one playing mode to the other you need to:


1) Set the video output resolution on the player. If the player doesn't automatically switch between HDMI PCM output and "bitstream" output over the optical cable then you need to select that as well.


2) Select the appropriate input device on the Anthem. As described above that would be DVD for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs and DVD2 for standard DVD discs.


3) Select the appropriate Component video input on the TV. Use Component from the Main path for watching standard DVDs. Use Component from the Zone 2 path for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray movies.


This setup gains lossless digital audio over HDMI for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray playback at the expense of losing the abilty to process the high def video on its way from the player to the display. You also lose the Anthem On Screen Display when playing HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs this way. But you can still process all forms of STANDARD video (including OSD) and get digital bitstream audio over the optical connection for standard DVD play as normal.


Once again, to get BOTH lossless HDMI audio AND processed video for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray play you have no alternative but to change to a display with an HDMI video input.

--Bob


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Be sure to use "PCM" for HDMI multi-channel audio in the HD-XA2, and not "Auto". The "Auto" setting in the XA2 is NOT working like the "Auto" setting of the Toshiba HD-A1, and that's confusing alot of peoples (and causing alot of headaches to some others).
> 
> 
> "Auto" in the XA2 with HDMI 1.3 will allow (supposedly) the newest HD codecs (DTS-HD and MA, Dolby TrueHD, DD+) to be transmitted digitally as native bitstreams in the future. And Auto was causing me headaches also with my D2. I'm now using "PCM" in the XA2 and it's working flawlessly for me.
> 
> 
> And also, don't use "Auto-Dig" in the D2.



Levesque,


I tried the above two changes and my audio is working now. Thanks so much!


I popped in Batman Begins to try out the Dolby TrueHD soundtrack and ended up watching the entire movie. WOW! What a difference!


My D2 is still having issues the first time the XA2 is turned on until I stop playback and go into the XA2 setup menu (that is when I first get a picture). I have some new HDMI cables enroute from Monoprice so I'll try those out and see if it behaves any better.


Thanks again for the tips. They were right on the money!


-Dave


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> From discussions with another poster, some interesting results for folks who do not yet have an HDMI display:.......



Bob,


Thanks for the excellent information, and thanks to the other poster as well! Those are some GREAT work arounds for those of us who don't have an HDMI display yet. My 5 year old 64" Pioneer RPTV looks too good to give up just yet, and flat screens in this size still cost a bundle. (ie post # 4091







)


I have been using a cumbersome audio work around of three sets of analog input cables and a switcher, as I listen to SACD on my Pioneer 79 AVi and HD-DVD from my Toshiba A1, but of course this leads to a massive tangle of cables behind my audio rack. I guess I will still need one set of analog cables for SACD, but I can at least retire two sets and then get better sound to boot!


Great find!










Mike


----------



## mathis08




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I *stopped using Analog In when I sold my MC-12b.*
> 
> 
> Of course - I would highly recommend the D1 to D2 Upgrade [GRIN]!



Hello drhankz,

I am new among seen and I would like to know your opinion on the resonant qualities of this pre amplifier Anthem D2 in relation to your former Lexicon MC12, in SSE and in pure hifi, thank you to indicate me the advantages and inconveniences, outside very sure its superiority in video.


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the excellent information, and thanks to the other poster as well! Those are some GREAT work arounds for those of us who don't have an HDMI display yet. My 5 year old 64" Pioneer RPTV looks too good to give up just yet, and flat screens in this size still cost a bundle. (ie post # 4091
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> I have been using a cumbersome audio work around of three sets of analog input cables and a switcher, as I listen to SACD on my Pioneer 79 AVi and HD-DVD from my Toshiba A1, but of course this leads to a massive tangle of cables behind my audio rack. I guess I will still need one set of analog cables for SACD, but I can at least retire two sets and then get better sound to boot!
> 
> 
> Great find!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mike



Glad you like it Mike! I'm perhaps being overly cautious in not stating the other poster's name, but since the discussion happened in PMs I'll let him decide whether to chime in.


It occurs to me that you can also use this setup to compare the high def video sent directly to your TV vs. what you get if processed through the D2:


Using the setup described above, if you select the "DVD2" input while watching an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray disc you will have PROCESSED Component output on the Main output (according to your current Setup / Video Output settings) and UNprocessed Component output on the Zone 2 output. Audio will be via the optical cable so it will only be the "compatibility" track -- such is life. But now you can A/B the two inputs on your TV and see just what the Anthem might be doing for video quality compared to what your TV does when handed the raw, unprocessed Component video from the player. This can help you decide whether you are losing anything important to you in video quality when using the "DVD" input setup to listen to the HDMI lossless PCM audio track. It might also help in verifying that your PROCESSED Video Output settings are really set up correctly.


================================


EDITED TO ADD: Be aware, however, that the "best" level settings in your TV when viewing processed video from the Anthem may very well be different from the "best" level settings for viewing unprocessed video passed through from the player. This is just the nature of video calibration. You need to calibrate the two inputs on your TV separately for the two types of input signal before you will be able to make a meaningful comparison.


And if you try this unprocessed video pass through trick from more than one source device then you will also need to calibrate the input on your TV used for viewing the Zone 2 path separately for EACH such source device since the Anthem can not adjust the levels to one, standard, video output signal as it does on the Main path output.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mathis08* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello drhankz,
> 
> I am new among seen and I would like to know your opinion on the resonant qualities of this pre amplifier Anthem D2 in relation to your former Lexicon MC12, in SSE and in pure hifi, thank you to indicate me the advantages and inconveniences, outside very sure its superiority in video.
> 
> 
> Regards,



I had been a Lexicon Owner Since DAY ONE - CP-1, to DC-1, to MC-1

to MC-12b. A couple of times I switched away from Lexicon to something

that seemed to have Newer Technology - but because of the SOUND

QUALITY of the Lexicon Gear - I always came back. I never lived with

a NEW piece of gear more than a month before going back to Lexicon.


With the advent of HD DVD players and Blu-Ray Players - I needed to

upgrade to something with HDMI. I FULLY INTENDED to upgrade to

the Lexicon MC-12HD. But once Lexicon said NO 1080p support on

the MC-12HD - I was off to the Anthem D2. The D2 is the only gear

I HAVE FOUND - that is in the *QUALITY SOUND CLASS* of Lexicon.


When I had my Lexicon MC-12b - I had an EXTERNAL Video Processor

to generate 1080p Video to my Sony Ruby Projector. When I bought the

Anthem D2 - I got EQUAL QUALITY - Video Scaling for FREE.


By Selling my MC-12b and my VP50 - I PAID for the ANTHEM D2.

It has the QUALITY of BOTH UNITS - AUDIO & VIDEO and they

are integrated together and WORK perfectly for me in my THEATER.

*A HAPPY D2 OWNER*


----------



## yatchaks

Recently, I purchased new speakers. The towers are 8 ohm, and the matching center is 4 ohm.


I own the Anthem MCA 50 amp, and wonder if this is causing added stress or creating an issue running different ohm speakers?


For the record, the surrounds are connected, and are 8 ohm as well.


Thanks,


Mark


----------



## mathis08




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had been a Lexicon Owner Since DAY ONE - CP-1, to DC-1, to MC-1
> 
> to MC-12b. A couple of times I switched away from Lexicon to something
> 
> that seemed to have Newer Technology - but because of the SOUND
> 
> QUALITY of the Lexicon Gear - I always came back. I never lived with
> 
> a NEW piece of gear more than a month before going back to Lexicon.
> 
> 
> With the advent of HD DVD players and Blu-Ray Players - I needed to
> 
> upgrade to something with HDMI. I FULLY INTENDED to upgrade to
> 
> the Lexicon MC-12HD. But once Lexicon said NO 1080p support on
> 
> the MC-12HD - I was off to the Anthem D2. The D2 is the only gear
> 
> I HAVE FOUND - that is in the *QUALITY SOUND CLASS* of Lexicon.
> 
> 
> When I had my Lexicon MC-12b - I had an EXTERNAL Video Processor
> 
> to generate 1080p Video to my Sony Ruby Projector. When I bought the
> 
> Anthem D2 - I got EQUAL QUALITY - Video Scaling for FREE.
> 
> 
> By Selling my MC-12b and my VP50 - I PAID for the ANTHEM D2.
> 
> It has the QUALITY of BOTH UNITS - AUDIO & VIDEO and they
> 
> are integrated together and WORK perfectly for me in my THEATER.
> 
> *A HAPPY D2 OWNER*



Hi drhankz









Thank you very much for your return of experiences, it reinforces me in my choice, therefore a new owner of Anthem D2 for is added soon at your club of Anthemiste!!!,










Regards,


----------



## DreamCatcher

This is a great thread for Anthem owners or would be Anthem owners!

As a very happy D2 owner I'd like to get some setup help from you guys with different sources.

To lessen confusion, my confusion, I'd like to do one source at a time.

OK, so here it goes. PlayStation 3

Display is the Panasonic 65" 1080p (using HDMI to DVI cable)

D2 ----- PlayStation3 (HDMI to HDMI)

Should I output 1080p from PS3 to D2 or 1080i or ?

What about the audio setting in the D2, Auto-Dig or ?

Any other setting within the D2, PS3 or Display that I should be mindful of?

Thanks for your help


dc


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Recently, I purchased new speakers. The towers are 8 ohm, and the matching center is 4 ohm.
> 
> 
> I own the Anthem MCA 50 amp, and wonder if this is causing added stress or creating an issue running different ohm speakers?
> 
> 
> For the record, the surrounds are connected, and are 8 ohm as well.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Mark



The 4-ohm center speaker will draw more power from the amp to produce a given volume. It is "less efficient" than the 8-ohm speakers.


This could possibly be a problem since so much content gets played through the center speaker.


It's not a problem that the speakers have different ohm ratings so long as the amp can handle the least efficient speakers without going into thermal protect mode. You'll just have to depend upon the individual speaker volume adjustment range in your pre/pro to balance the more efficient and less efficient speakers.


Check your MCA specs for whether it can handle 4-ohm speakers. If so, then you should be fine.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mathis08* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi drhankz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for your return of experiences, it reinforces me in my choice, therefore a new owner of Anthem D2 for is added soon at your club of Anthemiste!!!,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Anthem D2 is a GREAT Product and Product Support has been great also.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Recently, I purchased new speakers. The towers are 8 ohm, and the matching center is 4 ohm.
> 
> 
> I own the Anthem MCA 50 amp, and wonder if this is causing added stress or creating an issue running different ohm speakers?
> 
> 
> For the record, the surrounds are connected, and are 8 ohm as well.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Mark



Yatchaks,


What brand/model of speakers are these?


Mike


----------



## dpstrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 4-ohm center speaker will draw more power from the amp to produce a given volume. It is "less efficient" than the 8-ohm speakers.
> 
> 
> This could possibly be a problem since so much content gets played through the center speaker.
> 
> 
> It's not a problem that the speakers have different ohm ratings so long as the amp can handle the least efficient speakers without going into thermal protect mode. You'll just have to depend upon the individual speaker volume adjustment range in your pre/pro to balance the more efficient and less efficient speakers.
> 
> 
> Check your MCA specs for whether it can handle 4-ohm speakers. If so, then you should be fine.
> 
> --Bob



A 4 ohm speaker is not less efficient. A 4 ohm load will draw twice the current at the same voltage (therefore draw twice the power) as an 8 ohm load, or it will need half the voltage at the same current. Most output devices are current limited rather than voltage limited, so yes, an amp has to be designed to be 4 ohm capable.


Anyways, I think this is the wrong thread to discuss this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks for the clarification.

--Bob


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is a great thread for Anthem owners or would be Anthem owners!
> 
> As a very happy D2 owner I'd like to get some setup help from you guys with different sources.
> 
> To lessen confusion, my confusion, I'd like to do one source at a time.
> 
> OK, so here it goes. PlayStation 3
> 
> Display is the Panasonic 65" 1080p (using HDMI to DVI cable)
> 
> D2 ----- PlayStation3 (HDMI to HDMI)
> 
> Should I output 1080p from PS3 to D2 or 1080i or ?
> 
> What about the audio setting in the D2, Auto-Dig or ?
> 
> Any other setting within the D2, PS3 or Display that I should be mindful of?
> 
> Thanks for your help
> 
> 
> dc



OK DreamCatcher I'll take a shot since nobody else will









PlayStation3 should be set to output 1080p

HDMI Repeater: Yes

Audio In: Dig HDMI

Auto Dig: Yes

Panny display 1:1 pixel mode = On

Btw dreamcatcher this is a great idea to list some of the more popular source components with setup recommendations for the Anthem D2 and components connected to it......... don't you guys think so


dc


----------



## funlvr1965

Well I am currently an Anthem D1 owner who turned a friend of mine who is also a forum member onto the D2, after running his 1080P Benq projector througth the D2 he was extremely satisfied with the result, lol then after using the D2 and getting aquainted with its features and performance he suddenly turned on me and asked my why I was still living in the stone age with my D1 and listening to audio through "coax" and did I not know the benefits of just one cable ( seems I created a monster







). I had recently switched 1080p projectors and we had an idea of something that would be kind of fun to do one weekend and that was for him to bring over his D2, sony playstation III and a bluray copy of " Iceage the meltdown", the night before I took the settings from my D1, wrote them down and the next day we transferred the setting such as speaker distances, crossover points for the sub etc to his D2. well I knew that the D2 was going to be an improvement but nothing could prepare me for the uncompressed audio I heard in Iceage, its the closest thing to "being there" that ive heard to date, another friend of mine also joined us that day who is also an audio dealer and installer and as a matter of fact he was the one who sold him the D2(and yes an authorized Anthem dealer), the uncompressed audio was stunning, my projector already had gennum chip inside but we sent 1080p out to it anyway from the D2 and it never missed a beat, we also watched "league of extroardinary gentleman", the picture was extremely detailed and crisp so where am I going with all this? lol I currently do not have my Anthem since my dealer has just sent it in for the upgrade(I couldnt resist), I havent been paying much attention to this thread in the past since I figured it was geared more toward D2 owners but it seems ive got a lot of catching up to do







, a question... is there anyone here who like me has had their D1 units upgraded to a D2? I would like to hear their impressions as well, Im also wondering if the newest firmware will be applied to my upgrade so it will be up to date when I get it back, I wish Anthem would change the faceplate from the D1 to a D2 faceplate to go along with the upgrade, if the price was reasoable I think that something many wouldnt mind doing.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there anyone here who like me has had their D1 units upgraded to a D2? I would like to hear their impressions as well.



Great Decision - I'm sure you will be HAPPY - Even without the

faceplate update. It is ONLY sheetmetal.


----------



## funlvr1965

your correct, I guess it my "vanity" side showing through


----------



## barhoram

On the list for my D1 upgrade. Supposed to get a call in mid-march. Can't wait.


One quick question. I'm going to be going from the XB0X HD-DVD add on, to a stand alone unit with HDMI. Was wondering that since I will have the D1 upgraded, will I be better off with the Toshiba XA2 unit vs. the XA1. I know the XA2 will output 1080p, but will the XA1 ($400 cheaper) outputting 1080i to the D2 result with an as good or better picture?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK DreamCatcher I'll take a shot since nobody else will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PlayStation3 should be set to output 1080p
> 
> HDMI Repeater: Yes
> 
> Audio In: Dig HDMI
> *Auto Dig: Yes*
> 
> Panny display 1:1 pixel mode = On
> 
> Btw dreamcatcher this is a great idea to list some of the more popular source components with setup recommendations for the Anthem D2 and components connected to it......... don't you guys think so



Funny guy!










I'm not using my PS3 in my main HT with my D2, but you should put *Auto-Dig to No*, since there is only HDMI from the PS3.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yatchaks,
> 
> 
> What brand/model of speakers are these?
> 
> 
> Mike



Salk HT3's and Salk HTC.


Bob and dpstrand,


Thanks for the feedback. In the event anyone else has the same question, I called Anthem and there is no problem connecting different ohm speakers at the same time, the Anthem amps can handle down to 2 ohm loads.



On another note, regarding the problems we have discussed with the Tivo S3 and AVM 50 losing the handshake. I have been sifting through the Tivo S3 forums and see that a software update is currently hitting various customers, and will be complete within a week.


It also appears some are having problems with the mpeg2 decoding done within the S3, causing audio and video glitches.


So, it may not be a problem with the Anthem at all. I'll give an update soon.


Mark


----------



## neff2k

I am going to need to double check my settings in my Tosh A2, because when I went to HD DVD I didn't realy notice that much of an audio change from DVD audio. Although I have always used HDMI for audio, so that may be why. It is fantastic as it is. Just didn't see that much of a difference. I know I have the AVM set with:


Audio In: Dig HDMI

Auto Dig: Yes


Just not positive I have the settings correct in the A2. I wish I had someone around here with a D2, because it is killing me knowing what the difference is between the D2's audio and AVM 50's audio.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Folks, the Auto Dig setting should be set to NO for ALL your Anthem inputs unless you have a need to turn it on.


Auto Dig = YES allows you to hook up an input with BOTH digital and analog audio. If there is s signal on the digital audio then it is used. If not then the analog audio is used. This is useful for devices like old cable boxes that don't send ALL audio out digitally, but rather send some channels on the digital output and some channels on the analog output. It is also useful as a way to hook more than one audio source device to a given input. Just power off the digitally connected device when you want to use the analog connected device.


But if you don't need that, then there are downsides to turning it on. For example it takes longer when using the "skip to next active input" function on the Anthem. And if the digital signal vanishes momentarily it will take longer for the Anthem to re-establish it when it comes back.


---------------------------------------------------------------------


Similarly, I have yet to find a good reason to set HDMI Repeater = YES for ANY Anthem HDMI input.


I'm sure it is set as "YES" by factory default because that's what the HDMI spec calls for.


But changing it to "NO" has no downside I've yet found for any device, and solves all sorts of problems.


Theoretically, setting it to "Yes" would allow a source to query a display THROUGH the Anthem and to adjust its output accordingly. But again, I've yet to find a case where this is either necessary or useful.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Funny guy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not using my PS3 in my main HT with my D2, but you should put *Auto-Dig to No*, since there is only HDMI from the PS3.



Like many others on this thread I made a decision to buy the Anthem Statement D2 on the basis of reviewing the numerous pages of content and conversing with a number of useful coaches' I have met here for the first time. I have never regretted the decision to make the purchase and have not found another product at ANY price point that would draw me away from the D2. So there is a bias in what follows but I believe that the enthusiasm has been honestly earned and relatively free of blind obsession which seems to accompany brand loyalty all too often in these threads! I do not work for Anthem nor do I own any shares in the company.

When everything works, I believe, the result is spectacular and cannot be beat. The caveat is when everything works! There are a number of issues discussed in this thread that are invaluable to anyone wanting to maximize their enjoyment of this technology. There are a number of consistent challenges that are repeated themes but that seems to be the nature of the beast in a time of phenomenal technological change.

The first and most obvious challenge is a by-product of the D2/avm50's (hereafter referred to as the Anthem) greatest asset and that is the tremendous flexibility on both the audio and video features set. This is not simple stuff. Expect that there will be a required learning curve and that there will be times that it will be daunting. The reality is that without a monitor, amplifier(s) and a source device (DVD, sat, cable etc.) the Anthem just doesn't make sense, so be prepared to expect to know more about all the interacting devices to gain the full capabilities and enjoyment of the end result. The video processing is certainly among the best in the industry and 9 times out of ten will be a better solution than the similar functionality in the source device. This is certainly true of the destination device as well. The wisdom emerging from the constituents on this thread is to let the Anthem do the heavy lifting wherever possible.

The biggest single irritant that I have found has been the introduction of the HDMI technology. The notion of having a single cable connection between devices is an end user dream come true but the reality I'm afraid is an engineering nightmare. It is clear now that the original spec was never detailed sufficiently to ensure that manufacturers could reliably implement a set of standards that all the community could abide by. Not all HDMI connectors and cables are the same and unfortunately the lack of quality control does not always result in a consistent error condition! All too often, various discussions of supposed engineering problems have been misdiagnosed due to HDMI cabling problems (length or quality). It is also clear from discussions on this very thread that not all manufacturers faithfully followed the HDMI spec due to value judgements on what elements of the spec were perceived as necessary. Now add HDCP and you have a nightmare scenario that only Stephen King could imagine.

To Anthem's credit not only did they not complain when confronted with poor implementations of the HDMI/CP spec they actually tried and for the greater part succeeded in compensating for other manufacturers mistakes with software upgrades! The fact that the Anthem has the switching capabilities that it has and most everything works in spite of failings in connected devices is nothing short of a miracle!

Another consistent observation that you would make if you were to read every page of this thread is that there are very, very few manufacturers of this calibre offering technical support and service at such a consistently high level. I mention this as the advice of the owner of this thread has always been to check with Anthem first and the AVS Forum second. Anthem really does care and will listen. Also the reader should be cautioned to watch out for these phenomena as there are a number of conversations buried in this thread that initially appear as one thing and end up being something else entirely. So caveat emptor, follow each issue to its logical conclusion to be safe before assuming any course of action to fix a problem.

I have also observed that as a matter of course Anthem will not evade problems. If they own it they will not only admit it but will prioritize the fix if possible. So take the time to let them know as we all benefit when you do.

Unlike many other areas of the AVS forum the main contributors in this thread are very sincere, very knowledgeable individuals who are honest and upfront with their advice. If there is a bias they will state it and the suggestions are always worthy of serious consideration. The overwhelming majority of contributors to this thread are conscientious devotees of home theatre and are seriously working together to help strengthen the enjoyment of a shared passion.

Having said all of that I believe that we may be ready to evolve this thread with a modicum of structure to consolidate the value of the learning to date. As progress is made toward a stable platform I wonder if certain popular combinations of equipment might be documented and then referred to or updated as the case may be. There are a couple of obvious examples that have been discussed at length and would probably benefit from a static reusable profile. The anthems D2 and AVM50 are certainly the foundation for any discussion relating to tweaks but most of the challenges or issues circle around familiar pieces of connected equipment. The OPPO 970HD for example has been discussed a number of times as the general agreement of delivering 480i over HDMI to the Anthems is the best starting profile for SD movies. There are a number of other OPPO default configuration preferences that have been explained and offered by Bob P and Levesque that really would be beneficial to offer up as starting positions rather than wading through the almost 70 pages of fairly detailed robust discussions that weave in and out to say the least.

I am sure that for those of us who have benefited from this thread since the beginning there have been huge leaps forward when lead by the disciplined words of Bob P, Lev and Hank to name a few. In fact I would feel privileged to be able to replicate the full suite of settings from Lévesque's Ruby to the D2 and back to the OPPO , Tosh XA2 , etc.. I can't imagine being better off outside of their experience and knowledge of these components. I know this because there have been moments of phenomenal leaps forward in quality of viewing and listening experience not so much because of a tweak' as much as a correction in basic configuration between two connected devices. Now that we are getting enough accumulated experience with the foundation pieces perhaps we can map the best default starting positions for certain popular equipment configurations and THEN begin the real process of tweaking the results for the best' HT experience! There are enough committed members of this thread who I believe would pitch in and maintain certain combinations with updated information as software upgrades or patches bring new features or behaviour to the known combination. Lévesque's observations on the Toshiba XA2 with the D2 are a case in point (by the way, thanks Lev for the pointers). I'm not sure exactly how to achieve my suggestion in terms of the thread organization but I for one appreciate Levesque's, Bob Pariseau and DRHankz's patience and support of those of us who are quite honestly more technically challenged than we would like to admit publically! I want to respect your time and effort and I believe that we have or are at least very close to achieving enough stability with the most popular equipment configurations to take a stab at establishing a few basic default profiles that will remain usable reference points that will not require repetition as we go forward. I realize that there will be some obvious differences with certain elements but if we take a consistent starting point with a set of assumptions then our coaches' can help with documenting some of the subtleties rather than repeating fundamental architectural designs which we all can accumulate responsibly in a better organized discussion.

For example I do know that a number of us have a Sony Ruby', a D2/AVM50, a Toshiba XA2, an Oppo 970HD, an XBOX 360HD and or a Play station 3 to name a few of the more frequent discussions in this thread. I am not suggesting that we preclude any particular brand or model for discussion but that we somehow flag the more popular pieces for a sticky designation within this thread, for want of a better description.

Levesque, if this rather lengthy note is not too confusing or inappropriate I will volunteer to help in any way I can to achieve a better use of your and Bob/Hank's valuable time and contribution to our increased enjoyment of this Anthem technology. I also need your forum experience to suggest how this might work in terms of process.


Peter


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Like many others on this thread I made a decision to buy the Anthem Statement D2 on the basis of reviewing the numerous pages of content and conversing with a number of useful coaches' I have met here for the first time. I have never regretted the decision to make the purchase and have not found another product at ANY price point that would draw me away from the D2. So there is a bias in what follows but I believe that the enthusiasm has been honestly earned and relatively free of blind obsession which seems to accompany brand loyalty all too often in these threads! I do not work for Anthem nor do I own any shares in the company.
> 
> When everything works, I believe, the result is spectacular and cannot be beat. The caveat is when everything works! There are a number of issues discussed in this thread that are invaluable to anyone wanting to maximize their enjoyment of this technology. There are a number of consistent challenges that are repeated themes but that seems to be the nature of the beast in a time of phenomenal technological change.
> 
> The first and most obvious challenge is a by-product of the D2/avm50's (hereafter referred to as the Anthem) greatest asset and that is the tremendous flexibility on both the audio and video features set. This is not simple stuff. Expect that there will be a required learning curve and that there will be times that it will be daunting. The reality is that without a monitor, amplifier(s) and a source device (DVD, sat, cable etc.) the Anthem just doesn't make sense, so be prepared to expect to know more about all the interacting devices to gain the full capabilities and enjoyment of the end result. The video processing is certainly among the best in the industry and 9 times out of ten will be a better solution than the similar functionality in the source device. This is certainly true of the destination device as well. The wisdom emerging from the constituents on this thread is to let the Anthem do the heavy lifting wherever possible.
> 
> The biggest single irritant that I have found has been the introduction of the HDMI technology. The notion of having a single cable connection between devices is an end user dream come true but the reality I'm afraid is an engineering nightmare. It is clear now that the original spec was never detailed sufficiently to ensure that manufacturers could reliably implement a set of standards that all the community could abide by. Not all HDMI connectors and cables are the same and unfortunately the lack of quality control does not always result in a consistent error condition! All too often, various discussions of supposed engineering problems have been misdiagnosed due to HDMI cabling problems (length or quality). It is also clear from discussions on this very thread that not all manufacturers faithfully followed the HDMI spec due to value judgements on what elements of the spec were perceived as necessary. Now add HDCP and you have a nightmare scenario that only Stephen King could imagine.
> 
> To Anthem's credit not only did they not complain when confronted with poor implementations of the HDMI/CP spec they actually tried and for the greater part succeeded in compensating for other manufacturers mistakes with software upgrades! The fact that the Anthem has the switching capabilities that it has and most everything works in spite of failings in connected devices is nothing short of a miracle!
> 
> Another consistent observation that you would make if you were to read every page of this thread is that there are very, very few manufacturers of this calibre offering technical support and service at such a consistently high level. I mention this as the advice of the owner of this thread has always been to check with Anthem first and the AVS Forum second. Anthem really does care and will listen. Also the reader should be cautioned to watch out for these phenomena as there are a number of conversations buried in this thread that initially appear as one thing and end up being something else entirely. So caveat emptor, follow each issue to its logical conclusion to be safe before assuming any course of action to fix a problem.
> 
> I have also observed that as a matter of course Anthem will not evade problems. If they own it they will not only admit it but will prioritize the fix if possible. So take the time to let them know as we all benefit when you do.
> 
> Unlike many other areas of the AVS forum the main contributors in this thread are very sincere, very knowledgeable individuals who are honest and upfront with their advice. If there is a bias they will state it and the suggestions are always worthy of serious consideration. The overwhelming majority of contributors to this thread are conscientious devotees of home theatre and are seriously working together to help strengthen the enjoyment of a shared passion.
> 
> Having said all of that I believe that we may be ready to evolve this thread with a modicum of structure to consolidate the value of the learning to date. As progress is made toward a stable platform I wonder if certain popular combinations of equipment might be documented and then referred to or updated as the case may be. There are a couple of obvious examples that have been discussed at length and would probably benefit from a static reusable profile. The anthems D2 and AVM50 are certainly the foundation for any discussion relating to tweaks but most of the challenges or issues circle around familiar pieces of connected equipment. The OPPO 970HD for example has been discussed a number of times as the general agreement of delivering 480i over HDMI to the Anthems is the best starting profile for SD movies. There are a number of other OPPO default configuration preferences that have been explained and offered by Bob P and Levesque that really would be beneficial to offer up as starting positions rather than wading through the almost 70 pages of fairly detailed robust discussions that weave in and out to say the least.
> 
> I am sure that for those of us who have benefited from this thread since the beginning there have been huge leaps forward when lead by the disciplined words of Bob P, Lev and Hank to name a few. In fact I would feel privileged to be able to replicate the full suite of settings from Lévesque's Ruby to the D2 and back to the OPPO , Tosh XA2 , etc.. I can't imagine being better off outside of their experience and knowledge of these components. I know this because there have been moments of phenomenal leaps forward in quality of viewing and listening experience not so much because of a tweak' as much as a correction in basic configuration between two connected devices. Now that we are getting enough accumulated experience with the foundation pieces perhaps we can map the best default starting positions for certain popular equipment configurations and THEN begin the real process of tweaking the results for the best' HT experience! There are enough committed members of this thread who I believe would pitch in and maintain certain combinations with updated information as software upgrades or patches bring new features or behaviour to the known combination. Lévesque's observations on the Toshiba XA2 with the D2 are a case in point (by the way, thanks Lev for the pointers). I'm not sure exactly how to achieve my suggestion in terms of the thread organization but I for one appreciate Levesque's, Bob Pariseau and DRHankz's patience and support of those of us who are quite honestly more technically challenged than we would like to admit publically! I want to respect your time and effort and I believe that we have or are at least very close to achieving enough stability with the most popular equipment configurations to take a stab at establishing a few basic default profiles that will remain usable reference points that will not require repetition as we go forward. I realize that there will be some obvious differences with certain elements but if we take a consistent starting point with a set of assumptions then our coaches' can help with documenting some of the subtleties rather than repeating fundamental architectural designs which we all can accumulate responsibly in a better organized discussion.
> 
> For example I do know that a number of us have a Sony Ruby', a D2/AVM50, a Toshiba XA2, an Oppo 970HD, an XBOX 360HD and or a Play station 3 to name a few of the more frequent discussions in this thread. I am not suggesting that we preclude any particular brand or model for discussion but that we somehow flag the more popular pieces for a sticky designation within this thread, for want of a better description.
> 
> Levesque, if this rather lengthy note is not too confusing or inappropriate I will volunteer to help in any way I can to achieve a better use of your and Bob/Hank's valuable time and contribution to our increased enjoyment of this Anthem technology. I also need your forum experience to suggest how this might work in terms of process.
> 
> 
> Peter



Well said Peter............ wow!


Bob/Levesque,

Thanks for the info.

So,

Auto Dig = NO (unless one has both digital & analog inputs on the same source)

HDMI Repeater = NO

Maybe Anthem should look at setting these as defaults.


Another interesting/confusing setting within the D2,

BYPASS LFE XOVER: default I believe is YES but I usually set this to NO.

Any reasons NO should not be the default?


dc


----------



## yatchaks

DreamCatcher,


Good post, and I agree.


This thread has become very popular, and has a strong following. I know there are many new Anthem owners who have posted within the last few months, while some new owners may never post. I'm sure some have purchased an Anthem product based on this thread alone and others will continue to do so.


Anyone try searching for a keyword within this thread? You will get back many pages, making it very difficult to narrow in on your reason for the search.


I agree that it would be beneficial to have the ability to refer people to an "index" of issues, fixes, common questions, etc.


It would also benefit us "old timers" of this thread. Some of us may not pay attention to particular post(s), since it doesn't concern us now, but may in the future, if we have an issue, or perhaps add a new piece of hardware.


However, with the overwelming information within this thread, it would prove very difficult to organize.


One way might be to print out the entire thread, color code relevant information, ie. all relevant oppo posts are blue, all Toshiba HD-DVD posts red...etc. Create topic, then link, or cut and paste.


Mark


----------



## DOBE

nine ball: Good post, with interesting suggestions, but difficult to read. I think this is what "DreamCatcher" wanted when he posted the following:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is a great thread for Anthem owners or would be Anthem owners!
> 
> *As a very happy D2 owner I'd like to get some setup help from you guys with different sources.*
> 
> *To lessen confusion, my confusion, I'd like to do one source at a time.*
> 
> 
> OK, so here it goes. PlayStation 3
> 
> Display is the Panasonic 65" 1080p (using HDMI to DVI cable)
> 
> D2 ----- PlayStation3 (HDMI to HDMI)
> 
> Should I output 1080p from PS3 to D2 or 1080i or ?
> 
> What about the audio setting in the D2, Auto-Dig or ?
> 
> Any other setting within the D2, PS3 or Display that I should be mindful of?
> 
> Thanks for your help. dc



"DreamCatcher" never asked about any other sources. This is probably because the responses were few. He has the Panasonic 65" 1080p. I don't think anyone else on this thread has that set, although I'm close to making the purchase.


If "Levesque's, Bob Pariseau and DRHankz's", to name, a few are willing, I think your idea is a good one. I'm just not sure it's practical. Bob P. has written some amazingly helpful and detailed posts concerning how to *generally* approach the set-up of a display, STB and DVD player in conjunction with the D2. I copied one such post and have it saved in "Word", but I can't find that post, in this thread, with the search engine of this forum.


I'm not sure detailed instructions, for even the most popular displays and STBs, is possible. It would be nice to try, if the technically literate among us are willing.


Below is the heart of your post ... in bite sized pieces:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Having said all of that I believe that we may be ready to evolve this thread with a modicum of structure to consolidate the value of the learning to date. As progress is made toward a stable platform I wonder if certain popular combinations of equipment might be documented and then referred to or updated as the case may be. There are a couple of obvious examples that have been discussed at length and would probably benefit from a static reusable profile. The anthems D2 and AVM50 are certainly the foundation for any discussion relating to tweaks but most of the challenges or issues circle around familiar pieces of connected equipment. The OPPO 970HD for example has been discussed a number of times as the general agreement of delivering 480i over HDMI to the Anthems is the best starting profile for SD movies. There are a number of other OPPO default configuration preferences that have been explained and offered by Bob P and Levesque that really would be beneficial to offer up as starting positions rather than wading through the almost 70 pages of fairly detailed robust discussions that weave in and out to say the least.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In fact I would feel privileged to be able to replicate the full suite of settings from Lévesque's Ruby to the D2 and back to the OPPO , Tosh XA2 , etc.. I can't imagine being better off outside of their experience and knowledge of these components. I know this because there have been moments of phenomenal leaps forward in quality of viewing and listening experience not so much because of a tweak' as much as a correction in basic configuration between two connected devices. Now that we are getting enough accumulated experience with the foundation pieces perhaps we can map the best default starting positions for certain popular equipment configurations and THEN begin the real process of tweaking the results for the best' HT experience! There are enough committed members of this thread who I believe would pitch in and maintain certain combinations with updated information as software upgrades or patches bring new features or behaviour to the known combination.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not sure exactly how to achieve my suggestion in terms of the thread organization but I for one appreciate Levesque's, Bob Pariseau and DRHankz's patience and support of those of us who are quite honestly more technically challenged than we would like to admit publically! I want to respect your time and effort and I believe that we have or are at least very close to achieving enough stability with the most popular equipment configurations to take a stab at establishing a few basic default profiles that will remain usable reference points that will not require repetition as we go forward. I realize that there will be some obvious differences with certain elements but if we take a consistent starting point with a set of assumptions then our coaches' can help with documenting some of the subtleties rather than repeating fundamental architectural designs which we all can accumulate responsibly in a better organized discussion.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well said Peter............ wow!
> 
> 
> Bob/Levesque,
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> 
> So,
> 
> Auto Dig = NO (unless one has both digital & analog inputs on the same source)
> 
> HDMI Repeater = NO
> 
> Maybe Anthem should look at setting these as defaults.
> 
> 
> Another interesting/confusing setting within the D2,
> 
> BYPASS LFE XOVER: default I believe is YES but I usually set this to NO.
> 
> Any reasons NO should not be the default?
> 
> 
> dc



Generally I would agree and say that Bypass LFE XOVER should be "NO" so that any bass coming in on the LFE channel is managed identically to the bass that might be present on the other channels.


However, if you prefer a very low crossover setting for your particular speakers and listening room -- something well below 80Hz -- then you may feel you are losing too much of the bass sound effects coming in on the LFE. The BYPASS = YES setting lets that signal pass through to the subwoofer without regard to your crossover settings in the Anthem.


Audio coming in on the LFE channel has usually rolled off completely all by itself above 125Hz. A crossover in the, say 70Hz and above range will roll off slowly enough in the Anthem that you shouldn't need to turn on the Bypass.


I believe BYPASS = NO is actually the factory default as it should be.


Note that setting BYPASS = YES means you will have difficulty using, say, calibration DVDs to test your bass response since they send bass into the system using the LFE channel and it won't be processed they way bass on the main channels will be.


I'm not a big fan of very low crossover settings even if you have mains that can go very deep and a THX Ultra2 subwoofer that can go even deeper. And so I'd suggest you leave Bypass LFE XOVER = NO unless and until you discover your particular bass setup needs you to switch it.


=====================================


EDITED TO ADD: For newbies, the LFE channel is not so much intended to carry bass as it is intended to carry *LOUD* bass -- explosions and stuff. The main channels can all carry very low frequency bass as well if that's how the content is mixed. The LFE channel is unique in that it is mixed at a lower level than the other channels. That means extra loud explosions can carry through the audio chain without clipping. This works because the LFE channel is boosted back up in your audio system prior to going to the subwoofer.


Bass management in general, and crossovers in particular, are about steering bass to the best speakers to play it, regardless of which channel of audio it came in on.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Folks, I've been through this before in the standard DVD forum.


The best solution I've seen is for the thread owner to Edit the first post to contain links to the most useful summary posts elsewhere in the thread. Newbies would then be advised to read the first post and follow the links in there to the most useful detailed posts elsewhere in the thread.


There could be a set of links added in there to point to:

* Basics of setup

* Understanding the technology and the terminology

* Suggested settings for popular devices


Each link would need a short description and advice on whether the linked post stands on its own (the normal case) or should be read along with the nearby responses to it.


Only Levesque as thread starter (or a moderator) can edit that first post, so he'd have to buy into this. If people help him collect links to specific posts that could be valuable in such a list it's actually not that much effort to do the first time. But it is rather a nuisance to keep the list up to date as new, valuable posts get added to the thread. We also need to be aware that new Anthem software will obsolete some older posts.


It is also helpful if a post is added at the end of the thread whenever that first post is edited. That helps confirm to folks that the list is being kept useful, and helps remind newbies of the value of using that first post as a starting point.


As for particular device settings, it is difficult for anyone to comment on those unless he is actually using one of those devices. In particular, the HD-DVD and Blu-Ray players are going through some pretty significant gyrations right now -- firmware upgrades and new device launches. For example it would never have occurred to me that Toshiba had changed the meaning of the Audio Auto setting in the XA2 player compared to their earlier players.


So if you've got a device, go ahead and post what's working well for you! We can all comment on suggested improvements, but only you can tell us if they work.


By the way, we ALSO need more posts with the correct Custom video settings for achieving true, native resolution 1:1 pixel mapping on displays that don't do that with one of the "standard" output resolutions.

--Bob


----------



## DreamCatcher

OK good info, thanks.

Keeping with the PS3 and D2 combo,

How about resolution setting within the PS3 for Blu-Ray playback?

I have the D2 set to output 1080p/60 to my display via HDMI.

The Panny 65" 1080p display set to 1:1 mapping.

The PS3 can be set to 1080p, 1080i, 720p, etc....

If I set the PS3 to output 1080p, what is the D2 doing to the signal if anything?

Would I be better served setting the PS3 to 1080i and letting the D2 take it from there for Blu-Ray playback?

Are there any other setting within the D2 or PS3 that I should be checking and/or adjusting?


dc


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DreamCatcher,
> 
> 
> Good post, and I agree.
> 
> 
> This thread has become very popular, and has a strong following. I know there are many new Anthem owners who have posted within the last few months, while some new owners may never post. I'm sure some have purchased an Anthem product based on this thread alone and others will continue to do so.
> 
> 
> Anyone try searching for a keyword within this thread? You will get back many pages, making it very difficult to narrow in on your reason for the search.
> 
> 
> I agree that it would be beneficial to have the ability to refer people to an "index" of issues, fixes, common questions, etc.
> 
> 
> It would also benefit us "old timers" of this thread. Some of us may not pay attention to particular post(s), since it doesn't concern us now, but may in the future, if we have an issue, or perhaps add a new piece of hardware.
> 
> 
> However, with the overwelming information within this thread, it would prove very difficult to organize.
> 
> 
> One way might be to print out the entire thread, color code relevant information, ie. all relevant oppo posts are blue, all Toshiba HD-DVD posts red...etc. Create topic, then link, or cut and paste.
> 
> 
> Mark




Dobe and Yatchaks and Dreamcatcher..........Thank you all and my apologies for not being more succinct. Actually I believe that it would not make sense to go back for the suggested default settings and cut and paste as much as it would be practical to summarize the current configs based on what we know today.


Dreamcatcher's straightforward template might be the best model to start with but I would like to see most of the settings from the relevant pages of both devices....the source (ps3) and the destination D2/avm50. Here I am assuming that the monitor might be an additional consideration if there was a departure from the HDMI to say DVI connection or component.


Before anyone begins to tell me how many permeatations that can produce I would suggest that we always try and start with the HDMI connections and then add the differences to that initial default as a matter of convention. Since this is the Anthem D2/AVM50 thread perhaps one way to begin the summary configs would be to head the title with the connected device name and model. What I would hope would be that if someone like Dreamcatcher would volunteer to initialize the PS3 config that if new or additional info came to light that he would agree to update his config with the passage of time.


My sense is that it would be a wee bit of a task at first but the long term would be substantial less work and a more humane use of Lev's, Bob's and Hank's time. By the way Dreamcatcher I am not picking on you as I would offer to try my best to pick up....... the Toshiba XA2 and hope that our tutors would keep our efforts quality controlled. We might just end up helping Anthem build an addendum for the product that might help others get a better start.


But Levesque owns this thread so its his feedback and decision we really need.



Thanks again .......


Peter


edited......I type too slow and didn't see your response Bob. You are right and I defer to your wisdom and experience........I just hope that we can find a balance that doesn't abuse Levesque's committment to this thread. In other words I hope we can help........


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK good info, thanks.
> 
> Keeping with the PS3 and D2 combo,
> 
> How about resolution setting within the PS3 for Blu-Ray playback?
> 
> I have the D2 set to output 1080p/60 to my display via HDMI.
> 
> The Panny 65" 1080p display set to 1:1 mapping.
> 
> The PS3 can be set to 1080p, 1080i, 720p, etc....
> 
> If I set the PS3 to output 1080p, what is the D2 doing to the signal if anything?
> 
> Would I be better served setting the PS3 to 1080i and letting the D2 take it from there for Blu-Ray playback?
> 
> Are there any other setting within the D2 or PS3 that I should be checking and/or adjusting?
> 
> 
> dc



DreamCatcher, I hope all the noise I have created does NOT interfere with someone answering your question as the principles apply to other similar connections. I too have the XA2 outputting 1080P to the D2 and then outputting 1080P 60 to the Ruby. Same question applies (I think) what is the D2 doing in this case? The only addendum I would add is if I use the XA2 for SD what changes if any should I make?


----------



## LEVESQUE

Nine ball.


Great post! And I totally agree with you! I'm thinking about this since 2 or 3 weeks already. I would really like to organize the monster that this simple thread became... But I have a really busy professionnal life (there is a life outside of AVS!), 2 children under 4, and I'm also a reviewer for a french audio/video magazine. So I don't have enough time to organize everything the way I would like to.



Bob is (like always!) on the right track when he says:


"The best solution I've seen is for the thread owner to Edit the first post to contain links to the most useful summary posts elsewhere in the thread. Newbies would then be advised to read the first post and follow the links in there to the most useful detailed posts elsewhere in the thread.


There could be a set of links added in there to point to:

* Basics of setup

* Understanding the technology and the terminology

* Suggested settings for popular devices


Each link would need a short description and advice on whether the linked post stands on its own (the normal case) or should be read along with the nearby responses to it."



That's exactly what I want to do, but I don't have the time to do it! I never taught this thread would become so big with a really fast growing community, and with such incredible people contributing in here, it's a shame that we can't organize everything a little bit. For example, some post by Bob Pariseau are simply outstanding (and should be FAQs at the top of the forum!) and it's really sad that they are lost in the thousands of posts in here. I sometimes shake my head and can't believe all the incredible and useful stuff this guy can wrote!


But I should have more spare time in march, and will try to organize the first post of this thread with links and subjects. But if someone else want to start it and help me, with some links and subjects they think are important, they can always send me a PM and I will gladly edit the first post of this thread and try to organize everything.


I was really buzy in the last 3 months and didn't had a lot of time to post in here.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nine ball.
> 
> 
> Great post! And I totally agree with you! I'm thinking about this since 2 or 3 weeks already. I would really like to organize the monster that this simple thread became... But I have a really busy professionnal life (there is a life outside of AVS!), 2 children under 4, and I'm also a reviewer for a french audio/video magazine. So I don't have enough time to organize everything the way I would like to.
> 
> 
> 
> Bob is (like always!) on the right track when he says:
> 
> 
> "The best solution I've seen is for the thread owner to Edit the first post to contain links to the most useful summary posts elsewhere in the thread. Newbies would then be advised to read the first post and follow the links in there to the most useful detailed posts elsewhere in the thread.
> 
> 
> There could be a set of links added in there to point to:
> 
> * Basics of setup
> 
> * Understanding the technology and the terminology
> 
> * Suggested settings for popular devices
> 
> 
> Each link would need a short description and advice on whether the linked post stands on its own (the normal case) or should be read along with the nearby responses to it."
> 
> 
> 
> That's exactly what I want to do, but I don't have the time to do it! I never taught this thread would become so big with a really fast growing community, and with such incredible people contributing in here, it's a shame that we can't organize everything a little bit. For example, some post by Bob Pariseau are simply outstanding (and should be FAQs at the top of the forum!) and it's really sad that they are lost in the thousands of posts in here. I sometimes shake my head and can't believe all the incredible and useful stuff this guy can wrote!
> 
> 
> But I should have more spare time in march, and will try to organize the first post of this thread with links and subjects. But if someone else want to start it and help me, with some links and subjects they think are important, they can always send me a PM and I will gladly edit the first post of this thread and try to organize everything.
> 
> 
> I was really buzy in the last 3 months and didn't had a lot of time to post in here.



This really is a phenomenal experience thanks to you and Bob and others too numerous to mention. I believe that one of the prime factors that will allow us to begin to consolidate this fountain of knowledge is that the ground under the Anthems is not shifting as much with the progress they have made with updates in the last couple of months. Can you imagine what it will be like when the audio calibration is added to the mix? I do know however that the playing with audio characteristics in a rapidly changing environment can be disastrous. This is why I believe we will need a stable default configuration for the next phase of discussion that will finally move from configuration issues to true calibration or tweaks which was the initial goal for this thread!


I realize this is alot of work and we owe you a deep debt of gratitude for sticking with it. Bob P is something special that I can't begin enumerate.


Please count me in to assist in any way possible when you are ready to come up for air. My enjoyment of this activity continues to increase in direct proportion to your valuable assistance.


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well this ain't gonna happen unless someone makes a start, so here are some example links for "The Good Parts Version!"


FIRMWARE and INSTALLING NEW FIRMWARE


* Disconnect HDMI sources and display PRIOR to installing an upgrade!
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9260519 


* Some extra steps to make sure your settings remain good
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9543881 


--------------------------------------------------------


SETUP -- SOME BASIC, SOME ADVANCED


* How to get the best from your video setup (video calibration for non-ISF techs)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9277613 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9564825 


* Lossless HDMI audio for folks without HDMI displays
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9805765 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9808465 


* Max resolution/frame rate for processed HDMI or Component video
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9683898 


* My video is "shocking pink"!
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9610862 


* Using AUTO DIG to get more than one device on the same input
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9564730 


* What if my 1080p display only accepts up to 1080i input?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9286645 


--------------------------------------------------------


THINGS YOU CAN DO WHILE WATCHING/LISTENING


* Why can't I get to the audio processing mode I want?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9627851 


* Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9587424 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9652415 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9660854 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9672930 


* What's with this Frame Lock stuff?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9556938 


--------------------------------------------------------


TERMINOLOGY AND TECHNOLOGY


* Color Space
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9731538 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9738172 


* Data Format (YCbCr 4:4:4, etc.)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9442585 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9443139 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9445345 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9306459 


* Frame Rates and Custom Resolutions
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9211974 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9276351 



--------------------------------------------------------


SOURCE DEVICE SPECIFIC SETTINGS


* Scientific Atlanta DVR
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9557247 


* Oppo 970 for SACD or DVD-Audio over HDMI
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9388249 



--------------------------------------------------------


DISPLAY SPECIFIC SETTINGS


* Custom Resolution for a 1366x768 Panasonic display
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9081443 


* Custom /24Hz Resolution for a Sony Pearl
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9256440 


* What if your display won't accept it's "native" resolution as input?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9795082 


==================================


There's undoubtedly more good stuff in this thread that deserves a link, but I got tired at this point. Perhaps someone else can continue?

--Bob


----------



## DOBE

Holy Cow! Thanks Bob. Now I need to link to this post, before it gets lost amid later posts.







I already copied and saved it.


These links should really be in the first post of the thread. What a great thread!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, the method used for compiling that list was to click on my name to the left of one of my posts, click on "View Public Profile", click on "Find All Posts by Bob Pariseau", and then start scrolling down the list looking for interesting topics. In some cases what I found, of course, was my response to someone else's post that I wanted to add to the list.


There's probably a way to limit that list to just this thread but I didn't bother to look for that.


The posts are listed chronologically, with the most recent post first. So if you know someone made a post you'd like to add to the list, and you know roughly what month he made that post, you can scroll right to that time frame and start looking from there.


To view a likely post in the list, click on the first line displayed for that post -- the one that has the pointer to the right of it saying it will take you directly to that post.


Once you find a post of interest, locate the Post Number in the upper right corner of the post and click on that number. For example this post is #4141. That will bring up a new page already scrolled to show that specific post at the top. Just copy the URL for that page and that's the link you want to add to the list.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On the list for my D1 upgrade. Supposed to get a call in mid-march. Can't wait.
> 
> 
> One quick question. I'm going to be going from the XB0X HD-DVD add on, to a stand alone unit with HDMI. Was wondering that since I will have the D1 upgraded, will I be better off with the Toshiba XA2 unit vs. the XA1. I know the XA2 will output 1080p, but will the XA1 ($400 cheaper) outputting 1080i to the D2 result with an as good or better picture?



My 2 cents...


The XA2 is an absolutely stunning player - the 1080p performance is amazing but it is also one of the best upconverting standard DVD players out there. there have been instances where I have found it hard to tell that the SD I was watching was not HD it is that good...

The D2 sweetens the deal.


Go XA2 - you won't regret it!!!


/\\/\\


----------



## nine ball

How do you do this so consistently Bob? I need to digest this but we all owe you a vote of thanks! It's a fabulous start.

A couple of quick questions.....if I may.......


1. I am using 1.10 on the D2 as I have been waiting for some consensus on when its safe to upgrade.....is that now?


2. I would offer that we should choose a starting point for this process that assumes a fixed starting point for the software version when beginning to draft configuration default profiles........again is there a recommended starting version yet?


3. Is it still recommended to disconnect alll hdmi cables from the D2 before upgrading or has this requirement been lifted yet?


Finally Bob P I am sooooo very impressed with your help. I accidently finished the 63 Port I had reserved for you but I can see that I'm going to have to find another bottle and put it under lock and key!!!!!


Thank you


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you do this so consistently Bob? I need to digest this but we all owe you a vote of thanks! It's a fabulous start.
> 
> A couple of quick questions.....if I may.......
> 
> 
> 1. I am using 1.10 on the D2 as I have been waiting for some consensus on when its safe to upgrade.....is that now?
> 
> 
> 2. I would offer that we should choose a starting point for this process that assumes a fixed starting point for the software version when beginning to draft configuration default profiles........again is there a recommended starting version yet?
> 
> 
> 3. Is it still recommended to disconnect alll hdmi cables from the D2 before upgrading or has this requirement been lifted yet?
> 
> 
> Finally Bob P I am sooooo very impressed with your help. I accidently finished the 63 Port I had reserved for you but I can see that I'm going to have to find another bottle and put it under lock and key!!!!!
> 
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> Peter



If you currently have V1.10 installed and do not have some of the problems discussed recently that are addressed with the trial software (latest rev being V1.11f I think), then you are where you should be right now. The V1.11 software currently on the Anthem web site is the same stuff. It only differs in the way the installer itself works.


If you are having problems and want to try the experimental software, contact Anthem tech support. But my guess is that they are likely getting close to publicly releasing a "real" maintenance release on the web site.


--------------------------------


Most of the configuration stuff that is puzzling people is not really dependent on the Anthem software version. It's all the basic stuff about setting up a specific source device or display.


For new features that come in with new Anthem software, of course we'll need to make clear what goes with what. That list I just put up stretches back into December, 2006, so it is all good for the V1.10 and V1.11 software.


--------------------------------


Yes, as best I know you still need to make sure all your HDMI connections, both input and output, are REALLY turned off before you do an upgrade of the Anthem. The problem is that some of these devices leave the connection live even though the device appears to be turned off. You need to either physically disconnect the cable (either end), or pull the power plug on the device to make SURE its HDMI socket is not live.


The Anthem is, of course, powered while the upgrade is being installed. If the HDMI cable is also live at the other end then the HDMI portions of the firmware can not install properly because the HDMI hardware in the Anthem is doing stuff.

--Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well this ain't gonna happen unless someone makes a start, so here are some example links for "The Good Parts Version!"
> 
> 
> FIRMWARE and INSTALLING NEW FIRMWARE
> 
> 
> * Disconnect HDMI sources and display PRIOR to installing an upgrade!
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9260519
> 
> 
> * Some extra steps to make sure your settings remain good
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9543881
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> SETUP -- SOME BASIC, SOME ADVANCED
> 
> 
> * How to get the best from your video setup (video calibration for non-ISF techs)
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9277613
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9564825
> 
> 
> * Lossless HDMI audio for folks without HDMI displays
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9805765
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9808465
> 
> 
> * Max resolution/frame rate for processed HDMI or Component video
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9683898
> 
> 
> * My video is "shocking pink"!
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9610862
> 
> 
> * Using AUTO DIG to get more than one device on the same input
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9564730
> 
> 
> * What if my 1080p display only accepts up to 1080i input?
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9286645
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> THINGS YOU CAN DO WHILE WATCHING/LISTENING
> 
> 
> * Why can't I get to the audio processing mode I want?
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9627851
> 
> 
> * Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9587424
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9652415
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9660854
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9672930
> 
> 
> * What's with this Frame Lock stuff?
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9556938
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> TERMINOLOGY AND TECHNOLOGY
> 
> 
> * Color Space
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9731538
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9738172
> 
> 
> * Data Format (YCbCr 4:4:4, etc.)
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9442585
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9443139
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9445345
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9306459
> 
> 
> * Frame Rates and Custom Resolutions
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9211974
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9276351
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> SOURCE DEVICE SPECIFIC SETTINGS
> 
> 
> * Scientific Atlanta DVR
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9557247
> 
> 
> * Oppo 970 for SACD or DVD-Audio over HDMI
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9388249
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> DISPLAY SPECIFIC SETTINGS
> 
> 
> * Custom Resolution for a 1366x768 Panasonic display
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9081443
> 
> 
> * Custom /24Hz Resolution for a Sony Pearl
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9256440
> 
> 
> * What if your display won't accept it's "native" resolution as input?
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9795082
> 
> 
> ==================================
> 
> 
> There's undoubtedly more good stuff in this thread that deserves a link, but I got tired at this point. Perhaps someone else can continue?
> 
> --Bob



Bob your awsome! this thread is great, I have gotten instant responses from Bob and others on my setup and it has helped me enjoy my d2 without worring about if Ive done it right or not.


I agree an faq is very helpful.


Im glad to be a member of this fantastic thread and a d2 owner.


thanks guys, bob


----------



## LEVESQUE

Awesome Bob! What would we do without you!


I just edited the first post of this mega-thread with the links Bob just gave us. So every new D2/AVM50 owners can now go to the first post of this mega-thread and use the quick link to any subject puzzling them, or if they just want more info about a particular technical term, instaed of surfing through hundred of pages.


Bob... Chapeau! And keep those links coming. So if anyone find a useful post not listed on that list, then I will gladly do my best to update the first post of this thread between two patients!







Just send me a PM or post your list here and I will update the first post.


A good thing would be to post your working settings with your projector and sources, so we could post a link to those directly.


----------



## mlbrand

Bob,


Regarding your answer above to nineball about software updates:


Since I do not have an HDMI display, and have had no problems or scaling needs, my D2 is still using software version 1.00. I'm almost embarrassed to admit that I have not upgraded the software yet,







but I haven't really needed to! It's been working great and why run the risk of a "1080i bug" or whatever if I don't need the new features? I eventually planned on upgrading when all the "bugs" were fixed.


However, my first HDMI compatible display is being shipped my way as we speak, and I will soon have a Panasonic PT-AE900U projector to add to my setup. I will be doing a CIH 2.35 anamorphic lens setup, which I asked you about recently. (BTW a great answer that should be added to the FAQ, post #3922)


Your post to nineball recommends waiting a little bit for the release of the full version of 1.11 (or 1.12?). I am good at waiting







, but will I need the newest software update to;


1. Process or pass video through the D2's HDMI output _trouble free_ to my Panasonic projector?


2. Do custom vertical scaling for the anamorphic lens?


Thanks,


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

mlbrand,

Post #3922 is not in the list I made because it is a paraphrase of a longer, more detailed post on the subject that IS in the list.


I suspect you will want to upgrade your software when you get your new HDMI projector. V1.06 had substantial improvements in HDMI reliability over V1.00. And V1.10 was, for most of us, even better at HDMI than V1.06. However I would hold off until Anthem replaces the current V1.11 software now on the web site with their next public release (probably either V1.12 or V1.20) -- or if you can't wait, ask them to let you have the newest trial version of V1.11.


The Custom Cropping stuff is in the software you have now. And as long as you don't mind feeding your projector one of the standard video resolutions you won't need the new software to light up your projector and start experimenting with Constant Height.


But to my eye, the video that the Anthem produces with the V1.10 software is significantly better than what I got with V1.00 and V1.06, so I would not suggest you hold off for long.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> mlbrand,
> 
> Post #3922 is not in the list I made because it is a paraphrase of a longer, more detailed post on the subject that IS in the list.
> 
> 
> I suspect you will want to upgrade your software when you get your new HDMI projector. V1.06 had substantial improvements in HDMI reliability over V1.00. And V1.10 was, for most of us, even better at HDMI than V1.06. However I would hold off until Anthem replaces the current V1.11 software now on the web site with their next public release (probably either V1.12 or V1.20) -- or if you can't wait, ask them to let you have the newest trial version of V1.11.
> 
> 
> The Custom Cropping stuff is in the software you have now. And as long as you don't mind feeding your projector one of the standard video resolutions you won't need the new software to light up your projector and start experimenting with Constant Height.
> 
> 
> But to my eye, the video that the Anthem produces with the V1.10 software is signifnicantly better than what I got with V1.00 and V1.06, so I would not suggest you hold off for long.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks the usual excellent info. I will hold off updating my software until the next public release. I've waited this long, what's another week or two?










I did find the link to your earlier detailed post on scaling for a 2.35 CIH setup. I do suggest that you title that link more clearly this purpose, or you will continue to get questions from people new to the thread on that topic.


Mike


----------



## cobracalde

Thanks Bob from an italian Anthem fan boy!!!


Another interesting post:

Setting D2 and Velodyne DD15 subwoofer


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Be sure to use "PCM" for HDMI multi-channel audio in the HD-XA2, and not "Auto". The "Auto" setting in the XA2 is NOT working like the "Auto" setting of the Toshiba HD-A1, and that's confusing alot of peoples (and causing alot of headaches to some others).
> 
> 
> "Auto" in the XA2 with HDMI 1.3 will allow (supposedly) the newest HD codecs (DTS-HD and MA, Dolby TrueHD, DD+) to be transmitted digitally as native bitstreams in the future. And Auto was causing me headaches also with my D2. I'm now using "PCM" in the XA2 and it's working flawlessly for me.
> 
> 
> And also, don't use "Auto-Dig" in the D2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried the above two changes and my audio is working now. Thanks so much!
> 
> 
> My D2 is still having issues the first time the XA2 is turned on until I stop playback and go into the XA2 setup menu (that is when I first get a picture). I have some new HDMI cables enroute from Monoprice so I'll try those out and see if it behaves any better.
Click to expand...


It looks like I spoke too soon. I'm continuing to have issues with the XA2. It took me about 15 minutes of fooling around last night to get HDMI audio. I never get HDMI video immediately - I always have to switch inputs back and forth or go into the XA2 setup menu. Audio is much harder to get.


If you are using an XA2 with your D2 via HDMI (including audio) and are having no issues, could you please let me know what firmware your D2 is on? I wonder if something may have regressed in 1.11f (which is the only firmware I've tried). I emailed Nick already but haven't heard a response yet (I know he is a busy guy).


Thanks.


-Dave


----------



## jorsan

I have a question :

My idea is to connect my DVD player, HTPC, and DISH thru my new AVM-50. I have a proyector AND a plasma TV. Can I process the signal (not just upscaling but control colors, contrast, etc.) independently or will apply to both? maybe using zone 1 for TV and zone 2 for proyector?. Maybe this question has been answered before but cant find that answer (this is too long . . .). Thanks in advance.


----------



## LEVESQUE

Dave.


I'm using 1.11f.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob from an italian Anthem fan boy!!!
> 
> 
> Another interesting post:
> 
> Setting D2 and Velodyne DD15 subwoofer



I agree that would be a good one to add to the specific devices section of the links. Good find! Levesque?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jorsan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a question :
> 
> My idea is to connect my DVD player, HTPC, and DISH thru my new AVM-50. I have a proyector AND a plasma TV. Can I process the signal (not just upscaling but control colors, contrast, etc.) independently or will apply to both? maybe using zone 1 for TV and zone 2 for proyector?. Maybe this question has been answered before but cant find that answer (this is too long . . .). Thanks in advance.



The Zone 2 Component output can be one of three things:


1) A copy of the Main Component output.


2) An unprocessed "pass through" of the Component input for the device selected on the Main path.


3) An unprocessed "pass through" of the Component input for some separately selected device independent of what's going on in the Main path.


The only way to get any Anthem processing on the Zone 2 Component output is to set it to be a copy of the Main Component output -- and thus using the same settings used for that output.


So to get separate level settings, etc., for your Zone 2 display you will have to do them using the controls in the Zone 2 display itself, or, possibly in the Component output controls of the source device if you can do that without impacting its use for the Main path.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It looks like I spoke too soon. I'm continuing to have issues with the XA2. It took me about 15 minutes of fooling around last night to get HDMI audio. I never get HDMI video immediately - I always have to switch inputs back and forth or go into the XA2 setup menu. Audio is much harder to get.
> 
> 
> If you are using an XA2 with your D2 via HDMI (including audio) and are having no issues, could you please let me know what firmware your D2 is on? I wonder if something may have regressed in 1.11f (which is the only firmware I've tried). I emailed Nick already but haven't heard a response yet (I know he is a busy guy).
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> -Dave



Dave, I am using XA2 1080p over HDMI to D2 ver 1.10 to Ruby 1080p over HDMI. It appears to work reasonably well..........The only issue I have had so far has been with audio wierd echoey sound which cures each and every time I go into the menus and choose the preferred sound format. Last night I turned off auto dig on the D2 and HDMI repeat off in the settings menu, but I have not had a chance to really test out the consequences yet. I will try tonight and feedback.


Peter


ps..I have noticed however that it does seem important on how I come to the XA2. I turn the XA2 on and then come to it from a 1080i Sat channel that is broadcasting HD and the video works all the time. Bob knows why I think.....it might have something to do with last settings being carried forward.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It looks like I spoke too soon. I'm continuing to have issues with the XA2. It took me about 15 minutes of fooling around last night to get HDMI audio. I never get HDMI video immediately - I always have to switch inputs back and forth or go into the XA2 setup menu. Audio is much harder to get.
> 
> 
> If you are using an XA2 with your D2 via HDMI (including audio) and are having no issues, could you please let me know what firmware your D2 is on? I wonder if something may have regressed in 1.11f (which is the only firmware I've tried). I emailed Nick already but haven't heard a response yet (I know he is a busy guy).
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> -Dave



Dave,

I suggest you try replacing your cable with a new, high end cable. Keep the new cable as short as possible. The signal you are trying to pass from the XA2 puts about as much demand on an HDMI cable as possible -- both video and audio. Even a slight mechanical mismatch between a plug and socket or a slight degradation of the cable itself can cause enough signal loss to have the effect you are seeing.


Do this even though you know your current cable works with other devices you have.


Now this may not fix the problem. Your problem may be in the XA2 itself or in the Anthem software. But it is WELL worth a shot. Unfortunately these cables tend to be ridiculously expensive. So try to buy it from a place with an easy return policy just in case it doesn't fix your problem.


Another thing to try is the hand holding test. You, or a friend, should grab the cable about an inch from the socket and hold the plug firmly in the socket. Make sure you are pressing the plug STRAIGHT into the socket with no tilt in any direction. While holding the plug in, try restarting things and see if video and audio come up properly. You will need to try this at both ends of the cable. If this fixes your problem then what's going on is that the plug is working its way just a tiny bit loose under the weight or strain of the cable. A different cable may have a better fit, but another alternative is to support the cable near the socket -- usually by using some sort of tie to attach it to a nearby cable -- to take the strain off the plug and to keep it from working loose due to bass vibration or whatever.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good find! Levesque?
> 
> --Bob



Already done! Plus the post from drhankz on how to get 1080p48 with live video settings editor to use with the Sony Ruby.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The only issue I have had so far has been with audio wierd echoey sound which cures each and every time I go into the menus and choose the preferred sound format.



That's a well knowned and well reported problem of the Toshiba XA2. I have the exact same problem of echo mixed with screeching, and alot of other XA2s users have the same problem with different HDMI receivers. A dealer posting in the HD-DVD forum said that Toshiba is well aware of that problem and will fix it in the next firmware upgrade.


The easiest way to fix that "echo" problem is to press the "Language" button on the Toshiba remote until you get back to the track you were using. Working each time for me. Annoying, but working.







Faster then going into the menus.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's a well knowned and well reported problem of the Toshiba XA2. I have the exact same problem of echo mixed with screeching, and alot of other XA2s users have the same problem with different HDMI receivers. A dealer posting in the HD-DVD forum said that Toshiba is well aware of that problem and will fix it in the next firmware upgrade.
> 
> 
> The easiest way to fix that "echo" problem is to press the "Language" button on the Toshiba remote until you get back to the track you were using. Working each time for me. Annoying, but working.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Faster then going into the menus.



Thanks Levesque........great advice!


I really am energized by the last couple of days on this thread.....I think we have really moved forward as a team thanks to your support and Bob P's initiative. It appears to have drawn some more members out of the shadows..........and as Martha would say "that is a good thing"!


Peter


----------



## ensmarcum

Is it better to use straight speaker wire (im using audioquest 14/2 and type 4 w/o fancy covering), or is it better to use the audioquest banana plugs and spades that i have? would you really notice a difference? Thanks. Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Personally I prefer banana plugs because if you attach the wires properly there's very little chance that a stray hair of wire will get loose to short things. With spades you have to be sure they stay separated as you lock them down and they are harder to remove when you want to.


From an audio point of view there's no difference if the wires are properly attached and the connector is solidly into the post.

--Bob


----------



## Lars158

Is anyone feeding the AVM50/D2 with 480i/576i over Component and if so what's the result? As I have reported earlier my AVM50 detect the signal as 1440x480i (instead of 720x480i) with an incorrectly processed picture as result. I have raised this to Anthem technical support and hope to hear back with some suggestions shortly.


I am wondering if this is a problem only on my unit, which then would indicate a possible hardware issue as opposed to something that can be addressed with a software update. Thanks... /LB


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Personally I prefer banana plugs because if you attach the wires properly there's very little chance that a stray hair of wire will get loose to short things. With spades you have to be sure they stay separated as you lock them down and they are harder to remove when you want to.
> 
> 
> From an audio point of view there's no difference if the wires are properly attached and the connector is solidly into the post.
> 
> --Bob



Banana Plugs here as well.

Spades are hard to get the speaker terminal tight enough to feel good about the connection, that is unless you break out the wrench then watch out something's bound to break. Sometimes they don't fit and you are stuck with using only one prong or there's just not enough room on the speaker terminals and the threat of them touching is a little scary.

Bare wire would be my second choice... but that's just me.


dc


----------



## Milt99

Depends on the wire gauge you're using.

With spades you just have to make sure to get the right width.

And yes better connectors are made to be tightened down with a socket.

Bare, again depending on the gauge and binding post config, it may or may not work.

Bananas, very popular but I'm not a fan but that's just me.

I like spades because even good ones are cheap and offer the best contact.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is anyone feeding the AVM50/D2 with 480i/576i over Component and if so what's the result? As I have reported earlier my AVM50 detect the signal as 1440x480i (instead of 720x480i) with an incorrectly processed picture as result. I have raised this to Anthem technical support and hope to hear back with some suggestions shortly.
> 
> 
> I am wondering if this is a problem only on my unit, which then would indicate a possible hardware issue as opposed to something that can be addressed with a software update. Thanks... /LB



Greetings,


I am feeding my AVM-50 480i via component from my Sony DVP-CX995V 400 disc jukebox with no problem.



Regards,


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is anyone feeding the AVM50/D2 with 480i/576i over Component and if so what's the result? As I have reported earlier my AVM50 detect the signal as 1440x480i (instead of 720x480i) with an incorrectly processed picture as result. I have raised this to Anthem technical support and hope to hear back with some suggestions shortly.
> 
> 
> I am wondering if this is a problem only on my unit, which then would indicate a possible hardware issue as opposed to something that can be addressed with a software update. Thanks... /LB



I am using an Escient SE D1 tied to a Sony ES777 mega changer to a D2 with Component into the D2 and HDMI 1080P out to a Ruby. Initially I had huge problems getting it to display properly. When it did work the Pic Quality was terrible. Then I went back to 480p on the default setting (physical switch) on the back of the sony 777ES and the picture improved substantially but still below that of my OPPO 970HD or the Toshiba XA1 (Now XA2). All I use the Escient Sony megachanger for is to locate a disk in my library and move it to the Oppo at 480i over HDMI. Much of my experience was in fact working with the D2 ver 1.06 software and to be honest I haven't retried 480i over component to the D2 with version 1.10 which I am currently running.

I was planning to try it again AFTER the next official release of the D2 software into full production as I believe if it ever will work it will be with that release of software......

Again, my initial experience was distorted output with pink and green screens as well as washed out colours untill I finally switched back to 480P. But it does work now....just not up to the same standard as the Oppo which is my baseline for PQ for SD DVD's. So I believe that your problem is either with the sony or its a setting in the D2 if you are running ver 1.10 or later.


Peter


edit: I just realized that I should state that I have NOT yet verified the 480i over component to the D2 ....just 480P. I will be testing it as stated but not untill the next full prod release of the D2 software.


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am using an Escient SE D1 tied to a Sony ES777 mega changer to a D2 with Component into the D2 and HDMI 1080P out to a Ruby. Initially I had huge problems getting it to display properly. When it did work the Pic Quality was terrible. Then I went back to 480p on the default setting (physical switch) on the back of the sony 777ES and the picture improved substantially but still below that of my OPPO 970HD or the Toshiba XA1 (Now XA2). All I use the Escient Sony megachanger for is to locate a disk in my library and move it to the Oppo at 480i over HDMI. Much of my experience was in fact working with the D2 ver 1.06 software and to be honest I haven't retried 480i over component to the D2 with version 1.10 which I am currently running.
> 
> I was planning to try it again AFTER the next official release of the D2 software into full production as I believe if it ever will work it will be with that release of software......
> 
> Again, my initial experience was distorted output with pink and green screens as well as washed out colours untill I finally switched back to 480P. But it does work now....just not up to the same standard as the Oppo which is my baseline for PQ for SD DVD's. So I believe that your problem is either with the sony or its a setting in the D2 if you are running ver 1.10 or later.
> 
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> edit: I just realized that I should state that I have NOT yet verified the 480i over component to the D2 ....just 480P. I will be testing it as stated but not untill the next full prod release of the D2 software.



Hi Peter, if you have the Escient connected to the D2 via component, can you check the frame resolution when you have the Escient OSD active by pressing status on the D2 (Escient always output 480i, even if the Sony is set to 480p)? Check if it is 1440x480i or 720x480i. I am sure the Sony is not to blame here as I have the same problem with all my 480i sources when using component.


----------



## ensmarcum

Hey Peter,


I have the same problem from my samsung dvd player. I just now notcied it, thanks alot...heehee... Well, how does this problem get fixed?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Peter,
> 
> 
> I have the same problem from my samsung dvd player. I just now notcied it, thanks alot...heehee... Well, how does this problem get fixed?



Contact Anthem technical support. This is likely to be directly related to the stuff they are working on fixing in the various V1.11 trial software versions. The more info they get on different source devices that are having trouble the more likely they are to be able to fix this quickly.

--Bob


----------



## bool

Well, I finally did it and ordered an AVM50. Now I have an Emotiva DMC-1 that I never even used, but is too late to return. I was wondering if it is possible to have two tvs (one 1080P and the other 720P) displaying the same thing simultaneously using HDMI out for one and component out to the other. I was told it was, but I do not see how the AVM50 can process a 1080P out and a 730P out at the same time. If not, I guess I will try my Gefen HDMI splitter splitting the signal before the AVM50. If I can just use the AVM50, I can return the splitter and the 50ft HDMI cable which would be a nice chunk of change.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I finally did it and ordered an AVM50. Now I have an Emotiva DMC-1 that I never even used, but is too late to return. I was wondering if it is possible to have two tvs (one 1080P and the other 720P) displaying the same thing simultaneously using HDMI out for one and component out to the other. I was told it was, but I do not see how the AVM50 can process a 1080P out and a 730P out at the same time. If not, I guess I will try my Gefen HDMI splitter splitting the signal before the AVM50. If I can just use the AVM50, I can return the splitter and the 50ft HDMI cable which would be a nice chunk of change.



See this post

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9826365 


for info on what you can and can't do for viewing on a second display.


The bottom line is that if your second display can't also accept the same processed video the main display receives (except via Component instead of HDMI) then your only choice is to "pass through" UNprocessed video from the sources to the second display. For UNprocessed Component video out to the second display you will need to hook up Component as well as HDMI from each source and you will be limited to sources where their Component output is live when you want to use it with the second display. [Some sources will turn off their Component output when you are also using their HDMI output.]


Since the output is UNprocessed, its resolution will be the same as whatever the source is feeding the Anthem. Video levels will also need to be controlled in the second display itself.


---------------------------------------------


Even if your second display CAN accept the same processed signal as your main display, odds are that this still won't work for all sources since most of the HDMI sources will set up copy protection on the Main path -- which means the Anthem has to turn off both the Main path Component output and any processed output directed to the Zone 2 Component output.


The bottom line is that Zone 2 works best when your sources of interest for Zone 2 viewing are Component input on the Main path (instead of HDMI input on the Main path) even though output to the Main display is via HDMI, or where both displays are run via Component, or when the Zone 2 path is set to view the unprocessed Component video input from a separate source device than what's being watched on the Main path.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Peter, if you have the Escient connected to the D2 via component, can you check the frame resolution when you have the Escient OSD active by pressing status on the D2 (Escient always output 480i, even if the Sony is set to 480p)? Check if it is 1440x480i or 720x480i. I am sure the Sony is not to blame here as I have the same problem with all my 480i sources when using component.



I will check tonight as I just logged in and am at work............but Bob P is absolutely correct in advising us to cc or directly communicate this to Anthem support. It sounds like an extra step but I will reiterate that calling Anthem for support is very very atypical to the industry in general. If we show a willingness to work with them they will not leave an issue outstanding, but they really do need the info to help. This fact has been demonstrated again and again in this thread.


I did not know about the Escient 480i output so thanks for that .....I am now very curious to check the info status as you have suggested.


Peter


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Peter,
> 
> 
> I have the same problem from my samsung dvd player. I just now notcied it, thanks alot...heehee... Well, how does this problem get fixed?




As I just noted above Bob Pariseau and I believe that Anthem is in fact working through these issues specifically in this area but they really need our help with as much accurate info as we can give them. They may in fact have already solved this problem with the current beta and Nick at Anthem may want you to verify that the fix works if your detailed description fits the profile. On the other hand your info may be just that little bit extra that ensures stability for the final full prod release. I truly believe that we are very close to closing the door on a whole bunch of related symptoms in this area which will finally give us a stable platform to begin seriously calibrating our various configurations.


I don't know if your experience has been like mine but I have had moments with the D2 when (for whatever reason) everything is working at peak performance and I am left totaly speechless with the result. The quality of output is really beyond words. The result is a 'feeling' that I know I was searching for when I made the decision to by the D2 in the first place so I definately know whats in store for all of us when this platform stabilizes. AAAnnnd I have all the members of this thread to thank for the progress we have been making by sharing this stuff.


Peter


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will check tonight as I just logged in and am at work............but Bob P is absolutely correct in advising us to cc or directly communicate this to Anthem support. It sounds like an extra step but I will reiterate that calling Anthem for support is very very atypical to the industry in general. If we show a willingness to work with them they will not leave an issue outstanding, but they really do need the info to help. This fact has been demonstrated again and again in this thread.
> 
> 
> I did not know about the Escient 480i output so thanks for that .....I am now very curious to check the info status as you have suggested.
> 
> 
> Peter



I fully agree we need to report any technical issues to Anthem to ensure prompt resolution. Regarding the issue I have raised on incorrect detection of 480i sources over component, this has been reported to Anthem Technical Support and Nick is looking at the case as we speak. It is still of interest to see if this particular problem is general or an isolated problem with my particular unit, so I am looking forward to hear back from you Peter once you check the Escient signal into your D2...


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I fully agree we need to report any technical issues to Anthem to ensure prompt resolution. Regarding the issue I have raised on incorrect detection of 480i sources over component, this has been reported to Anthem Technical Support and Nick is looking at the case as we speak. It is still of interest to see if this particular problem is general or an isolated problem with my particular unit, so I am looking forward to hear back from you Peter once you check the Escient signal into your D2...



Lars, Just to make sure does it matter when I check the status??? Escient menu displaying or when a movie is playing OR does it matter??? I will be happy to check and report......


Peter


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lars, Just to make sure does it matter when I check the status??? Escient menu displaying or when a movie is playing OR does it matter??? I will be happy to check and report......
> 
> 
> Peter



The Escient will output 480i only when you have the "guide" active. Once you select a movie the Escinet is bypassed and whatever the DVD player is sending will hit the D2 (in your case 480p). So for this test, check the resolution when you have the Escient "guide" active on the screen.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Escient will output 480i only when you have the "guide" active. Once you select a movie the Escinet is bypassed and whatever the DVD player is sending will hit the D2 (in your case 480p). So for this test, check the resolution when you have the Escient "guide" active on the screen.



Thank you I will do exactly as you have requested as soon as I get home and can dodge my wife's wrath for running into the home theater before dinner. Actually if Oprah or Dr Phil are on I just might get through unscathed.....(she has her own system!)


Peter


----------



## ensmarcum

yeah, I agree, i emailed Nick my problem, he hasnt responded but I am sure he will in time. Rob


----------



## Bob Anderson

Hi


Whilst it would be difficult to pry my D2 from me, my wife is ready to throw the thing out the window. We are having a bear of a time, constantly losing the link to the Rogers, HD-PVR when flipping between HD and SD channels.


The Rogers set-top box's controller has the "Last" button that allows one to flip between channels and it is one thing, my wife does repeatedly during commercials.


Normally, she flip back and forth a few times and then, is yelling at me to come and fix the dam thing or is having to switch the D2 off, then back on to re-establish the link to the set-top box.


Is anyone else having this problem and if so, what may be the work around?


I am at version 1.11 but am not sure how to see what alpha code I am at. The D2 is 3 weeks old.


Thanks in advance.


Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bob A.,

It is likely you have just the original version of V1.11, even though your D2 is new. They are unlikely to have rolled any of the trial software out to manufacturing yet since it is still being tested.


Contact Anthem Tech Support. This is a problem they think they've fixed in the trial software they are testing now. V1.11f is the last we've had reports of here. They can email a copy of that to you.


Another workaround, if you would rather wait until the new software has completed testing and is publicly released, would be to set your DVR to always send the same video resolution to your D2 regardless of which channel you are watching. Typically you would set it to always send 1080i. This is not ideal for watching SDTV channels (or even HDTV programs broadcast at 720p) since the DVR will then have to scale those, but it will avoid the repeated HDMI handshakes that have to happen each time the DVR changes video output resolution.


If you want to watch a 480i or 720p program the "best" way, you can always then switch the DVR manually at that time. However, that will cause a new HDMI handshake, so you may have a failure that will require power cycling the D2.


When you get the new software, for "best" viewing you should change your DVR back so that it's video output always matches the resolution it is receiving.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob A.,
> 
> It is likely you have just the original version of V1.11, even though your D2 is new. They are unlikely to have rolled any of the trial software out to manufacturing yet since it is still being tested.
> 
> 
> Contact Anthem Tech Support. This is a problem they think they've fixed in the trial software they are testing now. V1.11f is the last we've had reports of here. They can email a copy of that to you.
> 
> 
> Another workaround, if you would rather wait until the new software has completed testing and is publicly released, would be to set your DVR to always send the same video resolution to your D2 regardless of which channel you are watching. Typically you would set it to always send 1080i. This is not ideal for watching SDTV channels (or even HDTV programs broadcast at 720p) since the DVR will then have to scale those, but it will avoid the repeated HDMI handshakes that have to happen each time the DVR changes video output resolution.
> 
> 
> If you want to watch a 480i or 720p program the "best" way, you can always then switch the DVR manually at that time. However, that will cause a new HDMI handshake, so you may have a failure that will require power cycling the D2.
> 
> 
> When you get the new software, for "best" viewing you should change your DVR back so that it's video output always matches the resolution it is receiving.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob P.


I will try the fixed resolution method first and if that works, then will wait for the release. If not, then I will get the "beta" from Anthem and try that.


Thanks ever so much.


Bob A.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bob P.
> 
> 
> I will try the fixed resolution method first and if that works, then will wait for the release. If not, then I will get the "beta" from Anthem and try that.
> 
> 
> Thanks ever so much.
> 
> 
> Bob A.



I don't have your brand of DVR box - but I have 5 other DVRs

hooked to my D2. They are all set at 1080i and everything

works fine.


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't have your brand of DVR box - but I have 5 other DVRs
> 
> hooked to my D2. They are all set at 1080i and everything
> 
> works fine.



Hi Drhankz


Just set up the Rogers HD-PVR to 1080i only, (it's a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD), and flipped a bunch of SD and HD channels and Bob P's suggestion seems to work fine. Real test will be when the wife gets home and does her nighly flipping.


I'd rather have the D2 doing the scaling and hope this holds her until the formal release.


Cheers


Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Drhankz
> 
> 
> I'd rather have the D2 doing the scaling and hope this holds her until the formal release.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



I know all you guys are Purest - I'd rather have the D2 doing the

scaling







but I have looked at the output from my DVRs with the

DVR doing the scaling and the D2 doing the scaling. I don't

see a difference.


But having a fixed output resolution makes it easier on all the

equipment in the CHAIN.


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know all you guys are Purest - I'd rather have the D2 doing the
> 
> scaling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I have looked at the output from my DVRs with the
> 
> DVR doing the scaling and the D2 doing the scaling. I don't
> 
> see a difference.
> 
> 
> But having a fixed output resolution makes it easier on all the
> 
> equipment in the CHAIN.



I have not done an extensive test but my immediate response when setting the PVR to 1080i was that it did not look as good as if the D2 was handling the scaling. An examples is a lot more fringing around letters.


Cheers


Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have not done an extensive test but my immediate response when setting the PVR to 1080i was that it did not look as good as if the D2 was handling the scaling. An examples is a lot more fringing around letters.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



Maybe I'm spoiled - I hardly ever watch a SD channel.

I'm stuck on HD


----------



## obie_fl

I haven't bother to update to any of the 1.11s yet and still have 1.10 loaded. I have to say 1.10 is working very well for me including all three resolutions out of the SA 8300HD DVR. Just another option to throw out there for those who don't want to beta test 1.11x.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have not done an extensive test but my immediate response when setting the PVR to 1080i was that it did not look as good as if the D2 was handling the scaling. An examples is a lot more fringing around letters.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



Another workaround is to hook up the DVR via Component for video and optical digital for audio. Then you can go back to passing the "native" resolution of each channel because there's no HDMI handshake on the source side of the Anthem.


You will need to re-adjust your input levels in the Anthem. There's no reason to suppose the "best" input levels for the DVR over HDMI to the Anthem will be the same as those when connected via Component. The audio side should need no adjustment.


With many devices there is a measurable loss of resolution when hooked up via Component compared to HDMI. This is just filtering that the engineers put into the Component path (in the analog video output stage) in a misguided effort to "help" crappy signals look better. But depending upon your particular cable feed, you may not see any degradation of video whatsoever. So Component could even be a permanent solution for you.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I fully agree we need to report any technical issues to Anthem to ensure prompt resolution. Regarding the issue I have raised on incorrect detection of 480i sources over component, this has been reported to Anthem Technical Support and Nick is looking at the case as we speak. It is still of interest to see if this particular problem is general or an isolated problem with my particular unit, so I am looking forward to hear back from you Peter once you check the Escient signal into your D2...



OK the input status is:


Video source: Component 4:4:4

Signal Type: 720x480i/59.94Hz

Audio source: NA

Film Mode: OFF


Does this answer your question or prompt any further questions?


Sorry to be so late..... unexpected company.

Peter


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe I'm spoiled - I hardly ever watch a SD channel.
> 
> I'm stuck on HD



I wish we were so lucky up here in Canada. I had never paid much attention to HD prior to get the HD-PVR and the D2 but found once we were setup, we are constantly in the HD channel area. The interesting thing is the number of advertisers and SD shows they run on the supposedly, HD channels. There may be 2 or 3 hours at most on a HD channel that is actually HD material on most of them.


Bob


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Another workaround is to hook up the DVR via Component for video and optical digital for audio. Then you can go back to passing the "native" resolution of each channel because there's no HDMI handshake on the source side of the Anthem.
> 
> 
> You will need to re-adjust your input levels in the Anthem. There's no reason to suppose the "best" input levels for the DVR over HDMI to the Anthem will be the same as those when connected via Component. The audio side should need no adjustment.
> 
> 
> With many devices there is a measurable loss of resolution when hooked up via Component compared to HDMI. This is just filtering that the engineers put into the Component path (in the analog video output stage) in a misguided effort to "help" crappy signals look better. But depending upon your particular cable feed, you may not see any degradation of video whatsoever. So Component could even be a permanent solution for you.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob P.


I think I will try and stay with the HDMI interface and split out the audio so that I am not waiting so long for it to sync up. The short term fix you suggested seems to be working for now and here's hoping Anthem's fix comes soon enough.


Thanks again.


Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wish we were so lucky up here in Canada. I had never paid much attention to HD prior to get the HD-PVR and the D2 but found once we were setup, we are constantly in the HD channel area. The interesting thing is the number of advertisers and SD shows they run on the supposedly, HD channels. There may be 2 or 3 hours at most on a HD channel that is actually HD material on most of them.
> 
> 
> Bob



Daytime HD here in the States is still lacking - but

main networks are all HD during prime time and

there are lots of 24 hour HD channels on Cable.


Only 20 months left and they will all be HD.


----------



## Bob Anderson

Hi all


In putting together my HT system, I ended up with the D2 and the A5 for the amp. I added the Arcam DV137 along with the HD-PVR for source material, (no HD player as yet).


For a Universal Remote, I have been testing the Universal TX-1000 and like the ease in programing. The big problem with the TX-1000 is it's size. Wife hates it.


I am now looking around for a better solution and am wondering what others are using?


Any suggestions for a model that is small, (one hand operation), but fully programmable with Macros would be appreciated.


Cheers


Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bob P.
> 
> 
> I think I will try and stay with the HDMI interface and split out the audio so that I am not waiting so long for it to sync up. The short term fix you suggested seems to be working for now and here's hoping Anthem's fix comes soon enough.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> 
> Bob



Splitting out the audio will do nothing to speed up the HDMI Handshake.


I also use Component from my DVRs to the D2 - THAT IS THE FASTEST

sync up and I have run many frame by frame - still A/B Comparisons

between DVR via HDMI and DVR via Component - I can not see the

difference.


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK the input status is:
> 
> 
> Video source: Component 4:4:4
> 
> Signal Type: 720x480i/59.94Hz
> 
> Audio source: NA
> 
> Film Mode: OFF
> 
> 
> Does this answer your question or prompt any further questions?
> 
> 
> Sorry to be so late..... unexpected company.
> 
> Peter



Thank you very much for cheking this for me!! Your D2 seem to detect the 480i source correctly! This then indicate that my problem is likely isolated to my specific unit... I am hoping Anthem tech support can figure out to solve the problem on my unit remotely, but at this stage I am afaraid I will have to return the unit for repair and/or replacement. I am still working with Nick on this so lets see where we end...


Other than this particular issue I am VERY impressed with this unit! I replaced the DVDO VP50 and a Sunfire TG IV for the AVM50, and by far the AVM50 is a much better value/peformer than my previous combo!!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wife hates it.
> 
> 
> Bob



She might like it when you get other devices that are

not as informative.


No likelihood to retrain wife


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for cheking this for me!! Your D2 seem to detect the 480i source correctly! This then indicate that my problem is likely isolated to my specific unit... I am hoping Anthem tech support can figure out to solve the problem on my unit remotely, but at this stage I am afaraid I will have to return the unit for repair and/or replacement. I am still working with Nick on this so lets see where we end...
> 
> 
> Other than this particular issue I am VERY impressed with this unit! I replaced the DVDO VP50 and a Sunfire TG IV for the AVM50, and by far the AVM50 is a much better value/peformer than my previous combo!!



I forget if I noted earlier but I am running ver 1.10 of the D2 software..... Are you running 1.11 of the AVM 50?


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Splitting out the audio will do nothing to speed up the HDMI Handshake.



With some DVR's there's an *ADDITIONAL* delay to get the audio started after the normal 1 or 2 second HDMI handshake delay to get the video started. This is apparently a second handshake from the source device. Presumably it is setting things up for video and then starting all over again and setting things up for audio + video.


By using optical audio (along with HDMI for video) you avoid this extra delay. But of course there's nothing that will eliminate the normal delay before the video gets going.


An example of a device that benefits from this is the Comcast Motorola DCT-3412 HD/DVR.

--Bob


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I forget if I noted earlier but I am running ver 1.10 of the D2 software..... Are you running 1.11 of the AVM 50?
> 
> 
> Peter



Yes, I am running v1.11f on my AVM50, so there is of course a possibility this problem was introduced with v1.11 (unless it's h/w or configuration related). I am sure Anthem will have it figured out shortly... I'll keep you updated on the progress! /LB


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, I am running v1.11f on my AVM50, so there is of course a possibility this problem was introduced with v1.11 (unless it's h/w or configuration related). I am sure Anthem will have it figured out shortly... I'll keep you updated on the progress! /LB



V1.10 and the original version of V1.11 (the version still available as the public download version on the web site) were reported to contain identical D2 and AVM-50 software. The only difference between them was in how the installer application itself operated -- to help folks who were having problems getting the install itself to complete without error.


I believe the same thing was true about V1.11a. Somewhere between there and V1.11f, Anthem started including bug fixes in the trial software as well as additional attempts to make the installer application run more robustly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For those who think an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player just *HAS TO BE* good at playing standard DVDs, check out Kris Deering's comments on the PS3:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=809778 


The PS3 report is not up yet on the Secrets of Home Theater web site, but it should be an eye-opener.


For reports that ARE up already, here's the Sony standalone Blu-Ray player measured for standard DVD performance via Component and via HDMI:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-b...h&articles=133 


Not good. I can't say that I'm surprised.


------------------------------------------------------


For comparison, here's the set done at the end of last year that included the XBOX HD-DVD add-on, the Panasonic player, and the Samsung player.

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-b...h&articles=132 


The XBOX add on comes in with a very nice 84 over-all rating -- again just for standard DVD play.


The Panasonic is below it with a 78 rating for Component output. Its HDMI output rating drops to 73 due to a bug which causes clipping of Blacker than Black and Peak White data.


And the Samsung, particularly for HDMI output, is as bad for standard DVD as it is cracked up to be for Blu-Ray.


------------------------------------------------------------


From earlier in 2006, the original Toshiba HD-A1 came in with a very nice 84 rating:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-b...h&articles=128 


This test was published without commentary.


I'm not sure why the newer Toshiba players have not been reported yet.


I'm very interested in an analysis of the HDMI 480i output from the Toshiba HD-XA2 for example. I'd also love to hear Kris' take on the upscaling of that player since there have been some very glowing reports from others.


All of the above is relevant to folks thinking about using one of the new format players as your main player for standard DVDs as well. Do not assume standard DVD playback quality is a "done deal" in these new players. We are starting to see problems crop up that had been pretty much eradicated in traditional DVD players -- such as the inability to play certain commercial discs AT ALL. And for the trickier stuff, these new designs have about the same chance of getting it wrong as traditional standard DVD designs.


Although it is pretty clear that folks with traditional standard DVD players should set them for HDMI 480i output and let the Anthems take it from there, we are likely near the point where we will start seeing players whose own upscaling is sufficiently good in its own right that you can use that instead. But getting that without introducing OTHER standard DVD playback problems is the real trick.

--Bob


----------



## TReg

I am looking at getting either the D2/AVM50 but need a pre-pro that can accept 7.1 PCM through HDMI. My dealer checked with Anthem today and was told the current units cannot accept 7.1 due to limitations with the Motorola chip inside. The D2/AVM50 cannot be upgraded to 7.1 unless the chip is changed. No firmware update is possible, and it is not a limitation with HDMI 1.1.


Several people in this thread mentioned they are waiting for the 7.1 PCM to be enabled with a future firmware update, but the above information from Anthem seems to quash that idea.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> Whilst it would be difficult to pry my D2 from me, my wife is ready to throw the thing out the window. We are having a bear of a time, constantly losing the link to the Rogers, HD-PVR when flipping between HD and SD channels.
> 
> 
> The Rogers set-top box's controller has the "Last" button that allows one to flip between channels and it is one thing, my wife does repeatedly during commercials.
> 
> 
> Normally, she flip back and forth a few times and then, is yelling at me to come and fix the dam thing or is having to switch the D2 off, then back on to re-establish the link to the set-top box.
> 
> 
> Is anyone else having this problem and if so, what may be the work around?
> 
> 
> I am at version 1.11 but am not sure how to see what alpha code I am at. The D2 is 3 weeks old.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Bob



I am also using the SCI SA8300HD with my D2 ver 1.11 without any issue. Meanwhile at some point I was experiencing a lot of instability between the D2 and the PVR that were caused by a cheap HDMI cable. I changed all the cables for Ultralink HDMI pro cable and that resolved all instability. Make sure you have a good quality cable.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wish we were so lucky up here in Canada. I had never paid much attention to HD prior to get the HD-PVR and the D2 but found once we were setup, we are constantly in the HD channel area. The interesting thing is the number of advertisers and SD shows they run on the supposedly, HD channels. There may be 2 or 3 hours at most on a HD channel that is actually HD material on most of them.
> 
> 
> Bob



Same thing in Montreal area. That's why I got a BDP-HD1 Blu-Ray player and a XA2 HD DVD Player.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TReg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am looking at getting either the D2/AVM50 but need a pre-pro that can accept 7.1 PCM through HDMI. My dealer checked with Anthem today and was told the current units cannot accept 7.1 due to limitations with the Motorola chip inside. The D2/AVM50 cannot be upgraded to 7.1 unless the chip is changed. No firmware update is possible, and it is not a limitation with HDMI 1.1.
> 
> 
> Several people in this thread mentioned they are waiting for the 7.1 PCM to be enabled with a future firmware update, but the above information from Anthem seems to quash that idea.



You are correct. This info from Anthem was reported here about a month ago, but it certainly doesn't hurt to give confirmation.


If 7.1 PCM via HDMI or 7.1 analog audio input is your thing then the Anthem products are not for you.


However, outside of games you will not likely find a significant amount of "real" 7.1 content any time soon. Perhaps FILM MIXER would like to comment.


Also understand that by design, every 7.1 "discrete" audio track in TrueHD, and I believe DTS-HD MA as well, is constructed so that the 5.1 discrete subset track can be easily extracted by the player. And this 5.1 subset track contains the matrixed clues the Anthem products will use, via Dolby Pro Logic IIx for example, to generate surround for the rear speakers from the 5.1 input. When you tell the player to send 5.1 PCM over HDMI to the Anthems, that's what you get.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No likelihood to retrain wife



Ha, Ha, she thinks she is constantly training me! Nope, that woman is the original single button girl with a propensity to flip between channels faster than either of my two kids, (atually, they are adults now).


At least with Bob P.'s tip yesterday, there was not a single requirement for me to go and reset the system and she hogged the dam thing all night.


I married one of the new Sharp 46" D92U's that came out a couple of weeks ago with the D2 and now I am in the Family room watching TV on the old tube while she PVRs her shows and movies.


I now have to go out and buy another Sharp to get her out of the HT room. This hobby feeds on it's self!


Cheers


Bob


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am also using the SCI SA8300HD with my D2 ver 1.11 without any issue. Meanwhile at some point I was experiencing a lot of instability between the D2 and the PVR that were caused by a cheap HDMI cable. I changed all the cables for Ultralink HDMI pro cable and that resolved all instability. Make sure you have a good quality cable.



Hi Tolstoi


I installed AudioQuest/CinemaQuest HDMI-3 cable, the best they make. I had heard not to scrimp on the cables and went with the best the dealer had.


Cheers


Bob


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Same thing in Montreal area. That's why I got a BDP-HD1 Blu-Ray player and a XA2 HD DVD Player.



Hi Tolstoi


I am going to try and wait for the next gen players that can play both BR and HD to come out, (though my patience has always let me down in the past).


The gating factor for me is that I installed everything into a cabinet that only has room for one more item so hopefully, technology will deliver before lack of patience gives out)










Cheers


Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I now have to go out and buy another Sharp to get her out of the HT room. This hobby feeds on it's self!
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



It sure Does - I have THREE Theaters - Small - Medium and LARGE.

It is also why I have 5 Sony DVRs.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Tolstoi
> 
> 
> I am going to try and wait for the next gen players that can play both BR and HD to come out, (though my patience has always let me down in the past).
> 
> 
> Bob



I wouldn't rush out for a Combo player. The 1st Gen

Combo player is really lacking lots and lots.


Also - I am FORMAT NEUTRAL. I have had a HD DVD

player since DAY ONE - March 2006 and I got one of

the first Samsung Players Day One - but I only owned

that one for 24 hours. Then I ORDERED and WAITED

until December 11, for my Pioneer BDP-HD1 to finally arrive.


Since 12/05/06 - I have not bought a HD DVD Movie.

Again - I have no bias - the HD DVD camp seems to have

fallen on their CONTENT FACE. All the movies that I wanted

to OWN since then HAVE BEEN ON BLU-RAY.


----------



## PooperScooper

Please let's try and stay focused on the AVM50/D2, thanks.


larry


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are correct. This info from Anthem was reported here about a month ago, but it certainly doesn't hurt to give confirmation.
> 
> 
> If 7.1 PCM via HDMI or 7.1 analog audio input is your thing then the Anthem products are not for you.
> 
> 
> However, outside of games you will not likely find a significant amount of "real" 7.1 content any time soon. Perhaps FILM MIXER would like to comment.
> 
> 
> Also understand that by design, every 7.1 "discrete" audio track in TrueHD, and I believe DTS-HD MA as well, is constructed so that the 5.1 discrete subset track can be easily extracted by the player. And this 5.1 subset track contains the matrixed clues the Anthem products will use, via Dolby Pro Logic IIx for example, to generate surround for the rear speakers from the 5.1 input. When you tell the player to send 5.1 PCM over HDMI to the Anthems, that's what you get.
> 
> --Bob




General comment!


I smell a D3 in our lifetime..............


Specific comment:


Bob I have to challenge your notion of accepting 'status quo' with respect to 5.1 continuing to be the watermark for near term media productions. I believe and I would very much welcome Film Mixer's thoughts as well, that the next generational jump will be to deliver X.X PCM over HDMI. I believe that the current trends in production capabilities will allow for this and there will be a grandfathering capability to fully accommodate existing standards without compromise as you have partially suggested with the matrixing solution (DLP IIx).


The actual performance of even 7.1 (discrete) has truthfully been heard or demonstrated by such a small percentage of enthusiasts that it would be difficult to describe how compelling the impact can be. The fact is that far too many audiophile 'experts' have long argued that the rear channels do not require the same characteristics as the front or main channels that true 7.1 discrete program material, even when it has been available, hasn't been demonstrated properly.


Add to that the majority of rear channel amplification configurations and you have almost a guarantee that even 5.1 systems have been compromised. I realize that the majority of film directors have in fact presumed this typical configuration and even tailored the result to to the myth that acoustic characteristics are always facing a fixed location buried in the front two or three speakers. The reality is however that when an acoustic distraction occurs from the side or back that the instinct is to turn your head in the direction of the source. Most systems today grossly distort this natural inclination by 'playing with the side and rear surrounds for effect rather than recognizing that the side acoustical sound field has become the primary 'front view' and deserves the same acoustical priorities as the traditional fixed front speakers(sound and amplification).


This industry view however is changing as I type. The technology that Spielberg and Jackson have at their disposal will allow them to seek a better configuration that is truly more spatially correct and defined than has been practiced in the past. I fully expect that Anthem will be one of the first manufacturers to put this technology out to the marketplace in advance of a tsunami of consumer devices (read affordable) appearing in your local big box store. The breakthrough I believe is in the growing engineering chorus that is arguing increasingly "configure don't customize' with future design criteria.


The point of all this soapbox rhetoric (sorry everyone) is that Anthems best design for the next generation is an X.X (scalable) configuration that will encourage artists like Film Mixer to 'reach for the top' with their acoustical canvases because we will have the capability to appreciate their artistry because of companies with capable technologies like Anthem.


Peter


PS. Anthem if you are reading this I would like to put in a preorder for a D3 and a P10.


----------



## LEVESQUE

The keep things in perspective. The Lexicon MC12-HD and Halcro SSP100/80 pre/pros are also limited to 5.1 over HDMI (and the Halcros are still only 2.0 and waiting for an upgrade to do 5.1), just like the D2/AVM50.


----------



## LEVESQUE

And another award for the AVM50... Again...










Audio product of the year. Sound & Vision 2006 Editors' Choice Awards.

http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/fea...rds-page9.html


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> General comment!
> 
> 
> I smell a D3 in our lifetime..............
> 
> 
> Specific comment:
> 
> 
> Bob I have to challenge your notion of accepting 'status quo' with respect to 5.1 continuing to be the watermark for near term media productions. I believe and I would very much welcome Film Mixer's thoughts as well, that the next generational jump will be to deliver X.X PCM over HDMI. I believe that the current trends in production capabilities will allow for this and there will be a grandfathering capability to fully accommodate existing standards without compromise as you have partially suggested with the matrixing solution (DLP IIx).
> 
> 
> The actual performance of even 7.1 (discrete) has truthfully been heard or demonstrated by such a small percentage of enthusiasts that it would be difficult to describe how compelling the impact can be. The fact is that far too many audiophile 'experts' have long argued that the rear channels do not require the same characteristics as the front or main channels that true 7.1 discrete program material, even when it has been available, hasn't been demonstrated properly.
> 
> 
> Add to that the majority of rear channel amplification configurations and you have almost a guarantee that even 5.1 systems have been compromised. I realize that the majority of film directors have in fact presumed this typical configuration and even tailored the result to to the myth that acoustic characteristics are always facing a fixed location buried in the front two or three speakers. The reality is however that when an acoustic distraction occurs from the side or back that the instinct is to turn your head in the direction of the source. Most systems today grossly distort this natural inclination by 'playing with the side and rear surrounds for effect rather than recognizing that the side acoustical sound field has become the primary 'front view' and deserves the same acoustical priorities as the traditional fixed front speakers(sound and amplification).
> 
> 
> This industry view however is changing as I type. The technology that Spielberg and Jackson have at their disposal will allow them to seek a better configuration that is truly more spatially correct and defined than has been practiced in the past. I fully expect that Anthem will be one of the first manufacturers to put this technology out to the marketplace in advance of a tsunami of consumer devices (read affordable) appearing in your local big box store. The breakthrough I believe is in the growing engineering chorus that is arguing increasingly "configure don't customize' with future design criteria.
> 
> 
> The point of all this soapbox rhetoric (sorry everyone) is that Anthems best design for the next generation is an X.X (scalable) configuration that will encourage artists like Film Mixer to 'reach for the top' with their acoustical canvases because we will have the capability to appreciate their artistry because of companies with capable technologies like Anthem.
> 
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> PS. Anthem if you are reading this I would like to put in a preorder for a D3 and a P10.



I'm sure a D3 is in our future, but I'm hoping Anthem is near releasing a kick*** Room EQ for the D2.

I can live without 7.1 PCM and HDMI 1.3............ for now










dc


----------



## tarichar

Does anyone know if Anthem is working on Auto Setup and Room EQ (i.e. Audessey)? This along with 1080p/24fps capability and HDMI 1.3 would be on my wishlist.


troy


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tarichar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Anthem is working on Auto Setup and Room EQ (i.e. Audessey)? This along with 1080p/24fps capability and HDMI 1.3 would be on my wishlist.



Auto set-up and room eq. Check


1080p24psf. We just have to ask if we want it, and they will do it. So half-check.


HDMI 1.3. No, since 1.4, 1.5 etc will probably be announced when 1.3 will become more popular. And 2.0 (info are just starting to filter on this subject...) is probably what will be the next thing that Anthem should aim for. And HDMI 1.3 doesn't give us anything 1.1 is not already giving us. And the world won't stop turning after 1.3 (alot of people think that it will, but it will not). They WILL announced 1.4, 1.5 and more....


See all the excellent post from Bob Partiseau at the top of the forum.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm sure a D3 is in our future, but I'm hoping Anthem is near releasing a kick*** Room EQ for the D2.
> 
> I can live without 7.1 PCM and HDMI 1.3............ for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dc



Me to - my first temptation will be the room eq.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 1080p24fps. We just have to ask if we want it, and they will do it. So half-check.



And How do us Ruby Owners Ask for that?


Did you mean pfs?


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm sure a D3 is in our future, but I'm hoping Anthem is near releasing a kick*** Room EQ for the D2.
> 
> I can live without 7.1 PCM and HDMI 1.3............ for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dc



I agree 100% and do or did not wish to sidetrack the thread with my musing to BPariseau. BUT I think we all, us and Anthem, need to see considerably more stability with the D2 and AVM50 before we encourage them to release the Room EQ. There are still basic configuration issues that need to be nailed down first before we contemplate adding EQ to the mix........especially with the traditionally high expectations that we have of Anthem's efforts to not just equal the current implementations of Audessey but particularly for the Statement Line(D2), surpass and improve on 'today's technology'.


I'm not saying that I don't want it now.....I do but I really want complete confidence that I know what is happening with the basic configuration with the other sources before trying to play with something that can be very destructive to the quality of output under the best of circumstances.


Tarichar........this subject has been discussed a number of times earlier in the thread with considerable detail. You might try the search function on EQ.


Peter


----------



## tarichar

As opposed to the typical 60 fps, 24 fps this would allow displays to display the native film rate without conversion. Unfortunately, only a few displays at present can take a native 24 fps (Pioneer), but that is changing.


Peter, I know its been discussed. I just wanted an update to find out an ETA, or whether it may be a very extended wait. I've had my D2 since the beginning and have been waiting for this feature.


troy


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Tolstoi
> 
> 
> I installed AudioQuest/CinemaQuest HDMI-3 cable, the best they make. I had heard not to scrimp on the cables and went with the best the dealer had.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



I use one HDMI-3 1m cables for a few months with my HD DVD A1. They are working well and your problem is not cable related.


----------



## Kris Deering

1080p24 works just fine with the D2 if the source is 24p (the Sony and Pioneer players). If you have the framerate set up to Auto in the video menus, the D2 will just pass it through with no problems.


If you set the D2 to 1080p24 out you get issues because the de-interlacer is having issues with the 3-2 cadence. This is very similar to the VP50. You start getting studder and frame drops. It needs to have a forced 3-2 mode for this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tarichar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As opposed to the typical 60 fps, 24 fps this would allow displays to display the native film rate without conversion. Unfortunately, only a few displays at present can take a native 24 fps (Pioneer), but that is changing.
> 
> 
> Peter, I know its been discussed. I just wanted an update to find out an ETA, or whether it may be a very extended wait. I've had my D2 since the beginning and have been waiting for this feature.
> 
> 
> troy



I'm not sure I understand your concern here. The D2 and AVM-50 are ALREADY spec'ed to handle 1080p/24Hz for input, processing, and output on both Component and HDMI.


Anthem is working through some signal timing issues with people on particular displays. Apparently the "standard" timings for this have not yet settled down now. But that only means you might have to enter a set of Custom video output settings for your particular display.


If your concern is for your current display, just contact Anthem technical support and they'll work through any issues with you.


If your concern is for some future display purchase, just keep your eyes on this thread. It seems like all the popular 1080p/24Hz candidate displays are being tried here as they come out.


For 1080p/48Hz to a Sony Ruby and for 1080p/24Hz to a Sony Pearl see the links in the specific display devices section at the beginning of the first post of this thread. We've also had reports in here on the Pioneer Elite FHD-1.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tarichar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 24fps means frames per second
> 
> 
> troy


*I know what FPS stands for.
*

But the D2 has had 24 fps support since day one - I use it now.


Levesque was talking about future enhancements.


So when he said 24fps might be a future enhancement - Since he

use to be a Ruby owner up to two days ago and he knows I'm a

Ruby Owner - Ruby's do not like 24 fps, they like *24PsF. There

is a difference* - I was asking if he made a TYPO since we already

have 24 fps.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tarichar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As opposed to the typical 60 fps, 24 fps this would allow displays to display the native film rate without conversion. Unfortunately, only a few displays at present can take a native 24 fps (Pioneer), but that is changing.
> 
> 
> Peter, I know its been discussed. I just wanted an update to find out an ETA, or whether it may be a very extended wait. I've had my D2 since the beginning and have been waiting for this feature.
> 
> 
> troy



I know that Levesque knows but if he told you he would have to shoot you and that is a definite no-no in this environment!


My logic tells me that you probably will see the next final release/update before the EQ stuff makes it into private beta........However, I suspect, but I don't know for certain that if you wrote Nick a note and 'volunteered' to help test the beta .....if it was in his power he might agree......BUT you would have to know that it was beta and accept that reality. Seriously Troy, I don't know whether they have a public/private beta program but it might be worth asking.


Peter


----------



## tarichar

I didn't mean to insult you. I really thought you didn't know what it meant.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tarichar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I didn't mean to insult you. I really thought you didn't know what it meant.



Well I figured you didn't know what PsF Meant










Se we are EVEN


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tarichar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I didn't mean to insult you. I really thought you didn't know what it meant.



OF COURSE - I wish Mr. Levesque would stop working

and get back here to PLAY with us so we can find out

if he meant fps or PsF?


Lets all BLAME







Mr. Levesque


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OF COURSE - I wish Mr. Levesque would stop working
> 
> and get back here to PLAY with us so we can find out
> 
> if he meant fps or PsF?
> 
> 
> Lets all BLAME
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Levesque



I agree....... especially if he left the ruby camp.......I can barely afford to keep up with this man......what did he get?


Peter


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OF COURSE - I wish Mr. Levesque would stop working
> 
> and get back here to PLAY with us so we can find out
> 
> if he meant fps or PsF?
> 
> 
> Lets all BLAME
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Levesque

















I taught it was 24psf, just like the Sony Qualia needs. Sorry for the confusion. 24fps is already working with the D2.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree....... especially if he left the ruby camp.......I can barely afford to keep up with this man......what did he get?



JVC RS-1/HD-1.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taught it was 24psf, just like the Sony Qualia needs. Sorry for the confusion. 24fps is already working with the D2.



It is psf - just like the Qualia - but you typed fps - causing

tons and tons of confusion


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taught it was 24psf, just like the Sony Qualia needs. Sorry for the confusion. 24fps is already working with the D2.


So the QUESTION STILL REMANS ---If it is psf and we HAVE TO ASK Anthem for it.

HOW DO WE DO THAT?You LEFT THE SINKING SHIP









AND you can't BETA TEST it any more!


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You LEFT THE SINKING SHIP



Yep. Too late. Now you are on your own. You have only 1 solution left, and it's to buy a JVC RS-1 also.


----------



## barhoram

For the talked about RoomEQ, how will the microphone interface with the D2??


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




LEVESQUE said:


> Auto set-up and room eq. Check
> 
> 
> so do we know if they will give us full user adjustability or will it be auto only? parametric or graphic?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> JVC RS-1/HD-1.



I'm hoping you are going to post up impressions somewhere










As a long time (particularly for this changing technology) HD2K user, I'm mucho interested. The Anthem is a perfect compliment getting that crappy relabeled Faroudja out of the video chain


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jorsan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a question :
> 
> My idea is to connect my DVD player, HTPC, and DISH thru my new AVM-50. I have a proyector AND a plasma TV. Can I process the signal (not just upscaling but control colors, contrast, etc.) independently or will apply to both? maybe using zone 1 for TV and zone 2 for proyector?. Maybe this question has been answered before but cant find that answer (this is too long . . .). Thanks in advance.



Aside from the points Bob & others made, the real choice will be what does your inputs on the projector & the plasma take, and can they be pushed to native resolution (which allows the Anthem to SHINE). One will have to be component driven and the other can be HDMI/DVI and/or component.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For the talked about RoomEQ, how will the microphone interface with the D2??



For $1000 bucks the connection better be gold plated


----------



## LEVESQUE

Anthem are really tight-lips about the room-eq. But since some of the guys programming it were also part of the Athena project at the National Research Council Canada, I'm sure it will really be something...


----------



## randman

To take advantage of the Room EQ, do we have to ship our D2 back to Anthem?


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To take advantage of the Room EQ, do we have to ship our D2 back to Anthem?




My guess would be that we would have to buy a calibrated microphone or microphones from anthem and download a software upgrade to our d2s whether they charge us for that is to be determined, but thats only my guess.


consider this we will most likely be better off than the mc12 owners that had to pay a ridiculous amount of money for their room eq add ons, but they also paid ridiculous amounts of money for their pre pros to begin with


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> JVC RS-1/HD-1.




Forgive me for asking Alain but why???? just to get the 1080P 24? I admit I have not been following the popular noise on this device as I have been so mesmorized by the Ruby. I just can't imagine it getting any better!


By the way, I am super pleased with the XA2.


Peter


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For $1000 bucks the connection better be gold plated



Tim,

I assume from your tag line that the best HD you have seen has been over the air and NOT from DVD, cable or satellite? If that is true, in your opinion, what is the ideal configuration if you were planning to take full advantage of the D2 processing capabilities in the process and budget was not a consideration.


Peter


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Forgive me for asking Alain but why????



The first reason is that I'm getting one to write a review about it. The second reason (major one for me) is the throw range. The Ruby was in the HT, 6 inches over my second row. The RS-1 will be behind the back wall since it has a longer throw, out of the room, out of view (and i prefer that). Third reason is the really high native CR without the use of any automatic iris with dynamic gamma.


And last, it's because I simply can't resist. I'm so weak...










And like I said to Drhankz, I will probably switch back to the next Sony (Ruby II, Saphire, Diamond...) next fall anyway...


----------



## FilmMixer

^^^ I am on the preorder list here, so hopefully you can give me the heads up before I replace my Ruby..


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^ I am on the preorder list here, so hopefully you can give me the heads up before I replace my Ruby..



How early did you order? Did you get a call from AVS yet (meaning you would have it next week)?


Levesque- glad to hear you will be getting an RS1 and writing a review. Definitely look forward to reading it!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> I assume from your tag line that the best HD you have seen has been over the air and NOT from DVD, cable or satellite? If that is true, in your opinion, what is the ideal configuration if you were planning to take full advantage of the D2 processing capabilities in the process and budget was not a consideration.
> 
> 
> Peter



Peter,

By OAR I'm referring to Original Aspect Ratio vs over the air. I'm actually more hung up on circles staying circles more than cropping, though I generally prefer all the picture regardless of how big the black bars are







I guess I get a little overboard (or did in early posts). I like epics, so whatever has the most wins







Personally 1080p all the way through appears best to me but the content (and sound) quality matters as much or more than the picture quality. (Content quality doesn't have to be high brow, nothing like a good old fashioned swords & sandals or Errol Flynn movie. I even "cheat" and watch crappy res Battlestar Galactica episodes vs waiting for the 10x better UniversalHD airings.)


I have a couple hundred DVHS tapes which really are good (and helped by the Anthem) and I still buy the BD or HD-DVD equivalents so I'm pretty hopeless. Damn the disc extras, I want to see the big vistavision like epics with lots of sound and a Korngold or Steiner type score and I'm a happy camper.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep. Too late. Now you are on your own. You have only 1 solution left, and it's to buy a JVC RS-1 also.



NO WAY -


I'll be AT CEDIA in Spetember to see and buy a DIAMOND!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^ I am on the preorder list here, so hopefully you can give me the heads up before I replace my Ruby..



WAIT until September for the DIAMOND - I saw a Prototype

in a secret Sony Hotel Room at CES.


----------



## Lars158

I was playing around with the Video Settings Editor yesterday on my PC, trying to make a backup of my current AVM50 configuration. When I use the "get" function only the settings of the selected source seems to be copied... My questions is if there a way to import all video settings (for all sources) into the Video Settings Editor and save as a backup?


----------



## flash2003

Hi all,


Sorry if this is a repeat question but I have not gone through all 142 pages of this thread.


I am almost ready to purchase an AVM 30. Would I be better off getting the AVM 50 right away instead of upgrading later on from a 30 -> 50? I really don't need the video processing right away but I want to be prepared for the HD audio formats.


Also, in the context of HT only (the AVM will not be used for 2-channel music), is the D2 that much better soundwise than the AVM 30/50? My other HT equipment includes a Simaudio Orbiter DVD player, Simaudio Aurora power amp and a set of Dynaudio Contour speakers.


Thanks,


Flash


----------



## darryl b

i emailed antem and got a reply that a d3 is way off, no need to wait. also not likely to be that much different that you'd feel good that you waited.

so where to buy a d2? whats the best price i might a find?


thanks


----------



## Ted W

Anyone using the D2 with a PS3 and care to comment? Setting which seem to work best, etc...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was playing around with the Video Settings Editor yesterday on my PC, trying to make a backup of my current AVM50 configuration. When I use the "get" function only the settings of the selected source seems to be copied... My questions is if there a way to import all video settings (for all sources) into the Video Settings Editor and save as a backup?



I recommend you use the separate Setup Editor application to save and restore your entire set of settings on the PC.


Live Video Settings Editor is intended for making on the fly (while you watch) and custom setting changes. So it is more focussed on per-device stuff. There probably is a way to save the entire config, but Setup Editor is easier.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flash2003* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Sorry if this is a repeat question but I have not gone through all 142 pages of this thread.
> 
> 
> I am almost ready to purchase an AVM 30. Would I be better off getting the AVM 50 right away instead of upgrading later on from a 30 -> 50? I really don't need the video processing right away but I want to be prepared for the HD audio formats.
> 
> 
> Also, in the context of HT only (the AVM will not be used for 2-channel music), is the D2 that much better soundwise than the AVM 30/50? My other HT equipment includes a Simaudio Orbiter DVD player, Simaudio Aurora power amp and a set of Dynaudio Contour speakers.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Flash



I think the audio in the D2 is quite special, but the audio in the AVM-50 is no slouch. There are plenty of happy AVM-50 owners on this thread.


Keep in mind that any difference you will hear will be dependant on all the rest of your audio setup as well. Amps and speakers of course, but also room setup. When you get into this class of audio you really are pushing what you can actually do with audio, so the differences can be subtle.


Two points to keep in mind: Although Anthem has been quite silent about the details, the expectation is that the upcoming Room EQ upgrade will only be available for the D1 and D2. These two have spare processsing power compared to the AVM-50.


Second, if you don't need/want the video processing and are mostly concerned about getting the lossless audio over HDMI from HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players then you should take a look at the AVM-40. It has HDMI in and out like the AVM-50 but does not have the Gennum video processing stuff (the scaler). It is an HDMI switching and audio solution.

--Bob


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I recommend you use the separate Setup Editor application to save and restore your entire set of settings on the PC.
> 
> 
> Live Video Settings Editor is intended for making on the fly (while you watch) and custom setting changes. So it is more focussed on per-device stuff. There probably is a way to save the entire config, but Setup Editor is easier.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I was under the impression that the setup editor did not capture the video settings, but if it does then that's all I need! Regards, /Lars


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darryl b* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i emailed antem and got a reply that a d3 is way off, no need to wait. also not likely to be that much different that you'd feel good that you waited.
> 
> so where to buy a d2? whats the best price i might a find?
> 
> 
> thanks



Pricing discussions are supposed to be limited to MSRP on this forum. But I don't think the moderators will mind if I point out that the D2 is a pretty hot item right now -- usually backordered -- and thus any discounts are rare and more likely reflect extra discount the dealer is actually giving you on other stuff to get all of your business.


The Anthem authorized dealer network is pretty sparse -- see their web site. You may have to travel to get to one. But I would recommend you avoid trying to find some secondary source. This is a complicated product. You want the full warranty to be in effect. Anthem's customer service is outstanding and you don't want to miss out on it if you need it.


There are always deals to be had on Audiogon of course, but it is not easy for the average buyer to test one of these beasties to make sure all the inputs and outputs really are working correctly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I was under the impression that the setup editor did not capture the video settings, but if it does then that's all I need! Regards, /Lars



As I recall there is a check box in the Setup Editor for whether you want the video settings to be saved as well.


That said, I only use it during software upgrades and I have noticed occassional settings that were not restored correctly. But I've assumed that was due to differences between the old and new software.


If you are playing with this now, perhaps you can check and report. I would consider it a bug if it can't handle the complete set of settings -- including custom video resolution for example -- saved and restored on the same software.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Setup Editor
> 
> --Bob



I have the most up to date Setup Editor, Publicly Available

from the Anthem Website.


I can tell you - it is loaded with problems. I gave up using

it. I assume once Anthem gets a Final Release of new FW

out - they will go back and update the Setup Editor.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ted W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone using the D2 with a PS3 and care to comment? Setting which seem to work best, etc...



I'll tag on to this that I'm still hoping to hear from someone who has tried multi-channel SACD over HDMI from both the PS3 and the Oppo 970.


There have been reports that the PS3 playback is significantly better, which I find surprising, and I'm trying to figure out if there's something important going on here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the most up to date Setup Editor, Publicly Available
> 
> from the Anthem Website.
> 
> 
> I can tell you - it is loaded with problems. I gave up using
> 
> it. I assume once Anthem gets a Final Release of new FW
> 
> out - they will go back and update the Setup Editor.



What sort of problems are you seeing? And have you found a better way to save and restore the entire configuration via the PC -- perhaps using the Live Settings Editor?

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How early did you order? Did you get a call from AVS yet (meaning you would have it next week)?



Rob.. I don't even remeber when I did it, but I think it was in the middle of the original time frame.... But it will be good for me now that the shipments are staggered so I can get some feedback from some fellow Ruby owners, and if I decide to go that route, I can start prepping to sell my Ruby.... anybody around here looking for one?











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> WAIT until September for the DIAMOND - I saw a Prototype
> 
> in a secret Sony Hotel Room at CES.



Oh, I'm sure I'll get one of those when they come around too... I mean, come on, September, who can wait for that


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What sort of problems are you seeing? And have you found a better way to save and restore the entire configuration via the PC -- perhaps using the Live Settings Editor?
> 
> --Bob



No Better way!


So far - Upgrades have not disturbed any settings so I

have not needed to save and restore. I'll just wait - no

big deal. I know Anthem has more important things to

work on.


----------



## flash2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Second, if you don't need/want the video processing and are mostly concerned about getting the lossless audio over HDMI from HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players then you should take a look at the AVM-40. It has HDMI in and out like the AVM-50 but does not have the Gennum video processing stuff (the scaler). It is an HDMI switching and audio solution.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the reply. This gives me something to think about. Concerning the(potential) connections to the AVM-40, the high definition video player (HD-DVD or Blu-Ray) would be plugged into the AVM-40 via HDMI, and the 7.1 HD audio would be processed by the AVM-40. The video portion of the signal would proceed via a second HDMI cable to the projector. Any comments on the setup?


I guess the AVM-40 will need a future upgrade to suport the new HD audio formats. Any opinions on whether this would be an expensive upgrade?


-- Flash


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh, I'm sure I'll get one of those when they come around too... I mean, come on, September, who can wait for that



So in between now and September you are getting a JVC RS1?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flash2003* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. This gives me something to think about. Concerning the(potential) connections to the AVM-40, the high definition video player (HD-DVD or Blu-Ray) would be plugged into the AVM-40 via HDMI, and the 7.1 HD audio would be processed by the AVM-40. The video portion of the signal would proceed via a second HDMI cable to the projector. Any comments on the setup?
> 
> 
> I guess the AVM-40 will need a future upgrade to suport the new HD audio formats. Any opinions on whether this would be an expensive upgrade?
> 
> 
> -- Flash



Yes you would connect HDMI sources via HDMI to the AVM-40 and then connect the AVM-40 via HDMI to your display. The AVM-40 extracts the audio from the HDMI inputs and switches the HDMI input to the HDMI output without further processing.


If you have Component video sources, you would also need to run Component video cable to your TV.


The Anthems accept only up to 5.1 input over any connection (including HDMI). They process that to produce up to 7.1 output [EDITED TO CORRECT].


See the "future proof" receiver sticky thread and the "Why you don't need HDMI V1.3" sticky thread for details about new audio formats and how to handle them.


The bottom line is that you should be looking for A PLAYER that either decodes each audio format of interest to you or will be upgraded to do so. The player then sends a set of high bandwidth digital audio streams (PCM) to the Anthem over HDMI. This is the way to do things so that you have no problems with discs authored for "advanced" content. And doing it this way also means no audio codec upgrades will be needed in the Anthem.


Don't confuse decoding of the new, packed formats -- TrueHD or DTS-HD MA -- with the audio post processing that is done in the Anthem and other receivers and pre/pros to turn 5.1 audio input into 7.1 audio output (i.e., Dolby Pro Logic IIx). The new formats are DESIGNED to work well with receivers and pre/pros that only accept up to 5.1 input and then post process it to 7.1 if desired.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So in between now and September you are getting a JVC RS1?



Makes sense. Replace the projector when it comes time to replace the bulb....

(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So in between now and September you are getting a JVC RS1?




Yes.. It is my understanding that I should have one by April...


I got such a great deal on both my Ruby and RS1 that I hope I can sell the Ruby with an extra brand new lamp (my projector has less than 300 hours anyways and was cal'd by umr) and not lose too much money..










We are such gluttons for punishment in this hobby.. or I should say our bank accounts are such gluttons for punishment


----------



## flash2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes you would connect HDMI sources via HDMI to the AVM-40 and then connect the AVM-40 via HDMI to your display. The AVM-40 extracts the audio from the HDMI inputs and switches the HDMI input to the HDMI output without further processing.
> 
> 
> If you have Component video sources, you would also need to run Component video cable to your TV.
> 
> 
> The Anthems accept only up to 5.1 input over any connection (including HDMI). They process that to produce up to 7.1 output [EDITED TO CORRECT].
> 
> 
> See the "future proof" receiver sticky thread and the "Why you don't need HDMI V1.3" sticky thread for details about new audio formats and how to handle them.
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that you should be looking for A PLAYER that either decodes each audio format of interest to you or will be upgraded to do so. The player then sends a set of high bandwidth digital audio streams (PCM) to the Anthem over HDMI. This is the way to do things so that you have no problems with discs authored for "advanced" content. And doing it this way also means no audio codec upgrades will be needed in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Don't confuse decoding of the new, packed formats -- TrueHD or DTS-HD MA -- with the audio post processing that is done in the Anthem and other receivers and pre/pros to turn 5.1 audio input into 7.1 audio output (i.e., Dolby Pro Logic IIx). The new formats are DESIGNED to work well with receivers and pre/pros that only accept up to 5.1 input and then post process it to 7.1 if desired.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the advice. I will definitely check out the sticky threads you referenced. I see I have a lot more reading to do.









-- Flash


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes.. It is my understanding that I should have one by April...
> 
> 
> I got such a great deal on both my Ruby and RS1 that I hope I can sell the Ruby with an extra brand new lamp (my projector has less than 300 hours anyways and was cal'd by umr) and not lose too much money..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are such gluttons for punishment in this hobby.. or I should say our bank accounts are such gluttons for punishment



Well in September my Ruby will be 1 year old so that is a good

time to replace it. As Bob says sell it when the bulb needs replacing.


But since I saw the Diamond and the RS1 at CES - I'll wait

for the Diamond. WAY BETTER [GRIN] - get ready to sell the

RS1 in September


----------



## buyrightlow

I'm having trouble with the hdmi connection in the back of my AVM50. During playback of both dvd and directv it is losing signal. Sometimes just video and not audio. Additionally, upon turn on it will not, on occassion, detect signal. When I play with the connection I can get it to work, sometimes easily, sometimes after pulling my hair out and several minutes. I have excellent brand new cables, but I think when I first installed the unit and had troubles because I didn't set to rgb and swapped cables, etc, I may have somehow damaged or "spread" the receptacle at the back of the AVM50. I've read about the cable ties, but nothing is touching, pulling, other than the weight of the cable, or otherwise effecting the connection, yet, it periodically drops out in mid-stream. Would replacing the receptacle in the back of the unit help? Perhaps spreading the cable side connection to make things tighter or is some other solution the right answer. This has really negatively effected my use of the unit and has made getting through a movie without interruption touch and go. If replacing the hdmi connector in the AVM50 is the best answer, is that something easy that a relatively capable person could do? HELP!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm having trouble with the hdmi connection in the back of my AVM50. During playback of both dvd and directv it is losing signal. Sometimes just video and not audio. Additionally, upon turn on it will not, on occassion, detect signal. When I play with the connection I can get it to work, sometimes easily, sometimes after pulling my hair out and several minutes. I have excellent brand new cables, but I think when I first installed the unit and had troubles because I didn't set to rgb and swapped cables, etc, I may have somehow damaged or "spread" the receptacle at the back of the AVM50. I've read about the cable ties, but nothing is touching, pulling, other than the weight of the cable, or otherwise effecting the connection, yet, it periodically drops out in mid-stream. Would replacing the receptacle in the back of the unit help? Perhaps spreading the cable side connection to make things tighter or is some other solution the right answer. This has really negatively effected my use of the unit and has made getting through a movie without interruption touch and go. If replacing the hdmi connector in the AVM50 is the best answer, is that something easy that a relatively capable person could do? HELP!



Since there are cases where you get HDMI audio even though you lose HDMI video my guess is that it is the output side which is giving you problems. Fiddling with the input connectors may cause a new handshake that gets things going again, but if you have HDMI audio then you have a good HDMI input signal even though the video might be shut offf. [The audio is multiplexed with the video -- not separate.]


Check both ends (plugs, sockets, and fit) of your HDMI output cable between the Anthem and the TV.


When you lose signal, also make sure you haven't accidentally changed the input on the TV to another input. This can sometimes happen, for example, if the TV responds to a remote control code that was actually intended for another device.


--------------------------------------------------------


If the HDMI connection on the Anthem has been damaged you will probably need to send it to Anthem for service since a local shop will not likely know how to test the Anthem to see if things are working properly.

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk

Just installed my Panny PT-AE1000U and used Bob P's suggestions on calibration and WOW!!, what a difference over my 900U, the blacks are inky black. Anyone else using the 1000 wit the D2? Wondering about Video resolution, currently using 1080P/50. Wondering whether 1080P/24 would be the better choice. I cannot find any documentation regarding native res, just all the supported res's. Also, picked up the new LG dual format player to replace my Panny Blu-ray and Tosh A2. The LG seems to work flawlessly.



Regards,


Lou


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll tag on to this that I'm still hoping to hear from someone who has tried multi-channel SACD over HDMI from both the PS3 and the Oppo 970.
> 
> 
> There have been reports that the PS3 playback is significantly better, which I find surprising, and I'm trying to figure out if there's something important going on here.
> 
> --Bob



Never thought to try since I so enjoy my OPPO,but what the heck, I'll give it a try.


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll tag on to this that I'm still hoping to hear from someone who has tried multi-channel SACD over HDMI from both the PS3 and the Oppo 970.
> 
> 
> There have been reports that the PS3 playback is significantly better, which I find surprising, and I'm trying to figure out if there's something important going on here.
> 
> --Bob



I have both, the OPPO 970 and the PS3.

They both sound excellent with SACD.

The PS3 maybe, I repeat maybe, a little smoother sounding...... did I mention maybe. The PS3 maybe even a little cleaner sounding. Slightly more detail.... maybe.

For some reason at a given set volume on the D2 the OPPO is slightly louder than the PS3









I do prefer the user interface and on screen display of the PS3 over the 970.


dc


----------



## rudolpht

OK, where's the new JVC projector to Anthem compatibility review???? Given the Anthem makes up well with my old fashioned 3 chip 1080p JVC (via DVI), curious minds...


I'm almost up to Lamp #4, so it may be time to jump


----------



## Ted W

Just to clarify, Bob/DreamCatcher/whomever else might know... the PS3, with it's 1.3 output, will send PCM into the Anthem's 1.1? This is the one detail I can't find an answer for. If this is so, then the only thing PS3 owners are waiting on is a firmware fix to add decoding of DTS-MA and more BR software with TrueHD tracks, correct? Everything else is covered, right?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ted W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just to clarify, Bob/DreamCatcher/whomever else might know... the PS3, with it's 1.3 output, will send PCM into the Anthem's 1.1? This is the one detail I can't find an answer for. If this is so, then the only thing PS3 owners are waiting on is a firmware fix to add decoding of DTS-MA and more BR software with TrueHD tracks, correct? Everything else is covered, right?



Right!

--Bob


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ted W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just to clarify, Bob/DreamCatcher/whomever else might know... the PS3, with it's 1.3 output, will send PCM into the Anthem's 1.1? This is the one detail I can't find an answer for. If this is so, then the only thing PS3 owners are waiting on is a firmware fix to add decoding of DTS-MA and more BR software with TrueHD tracks, correct? Everything else is covered, right?



Yes the Anthem D2 and the PS3 operate together perfectly via HDMI/PCM.

In fact I haven't found any HDMI source the D2 doesn't get along with










dc


----------



## aus

Anyone use the Zone 2 component output?


What resolution will it output and is the resolution the same as what's going out of the HDMI after the Gennum? I assume you can have a different sourse on the Zone 2 than the HDMI?

Also, will the component output video from a DirecTV or cable box? I think I read here that it'll only output non HDCP content?

I'd like to use it for the TV in the kitchen.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, where's the new JVC projector to Anthem compatibility review????



It's coming next week!


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone use the Zone 2 component output?
> 
> 
> What resolution will it output and is the resolution the same as what's going out of the HDMI after the Gennum? I assume you can have a different sourse on the Zone 2 than the HDMI?
> 
> Also, will the component output video from a DirecTV or cable box? I think I read here that it'll only output non HDCP content?
> 
> I'd like to use it for the TV in the kitchen.



You bet. I use the Zone 2 Component Output for my Zone 2 (Master Bedroom). I can switch the source for that zone completely independent of what is being viewed/listened to in the other zones. Works like a champ. Keep in mind, when used in this configuration, the video you get for Zone 2 is not processed by the Gennum at all, it is simply a pass through of the source, assuming the source is connected via component to the D2. But that's fine for me, as that room gets plenty of nice 1080i content direct from the source (Comcast and OTA HD channels via Tivo Series 3 for instance, upscaled DVD via the Pio 79avi, etc). Just remember that every source you plan on watching in that Zone has to be connected to the D2 via Component cables as well as whatever other cables it is connected with, otherwise you will not have independent switching in that zone, but only "Copy" of Main Zone. This is sub-optimal at best, so you're gonna need lots of extra cables depending on how many sources you have. You also need to connect Stereo L+R RCA interconnects from every source, as the other Zones are only capable of switching analog stereo for audio, not digital.


As for the DirecTV box and cable box you mention, I cannot vouch for them without knowing exactly what model you're talking about. Some devices have this nasty little habit of disabling video from the Component connection if they are outputting video via HDMI at the same time. I ran into this with one such component, the DirecTV/Tivo called the HR10-250. This box has one severe limitation, that it cannot simultaneously output HDMI and Component at the same time. When you connect HDMI from it, it disables every other output. So, my way around this was to NOT use HDMI at all from the HR10-250, but only Component, Composite, SVideo and of course Optical Digital and Analog Stereo outs to the D2. Keep in mind that the D2 will transcode the Component video to HDMI for output, so in my case my TV in the Main Zone still receives its video only via HDMI from the D2, but this allows me to also get that Component signal into Zone 2 as well. Lastly, the SVideo is used because I use SVideo in my office (Zone 3), and composite is important for my DVD burner, which is connected via the last zone, the Record Zone. I give you this detail because I have heard that many other DirecTV branded boxes behave the same way, and as for cable boxes, they are generally nasty as well, or can be anyway.


This level of flexibility for multi-zone functionality you bring up is EXACTLY why the D2 was a no-brainer for me, and why to this day I feel like I'm "getting away" with something by only having one set of components, all situated in one room in the house, but accessible to me in all 3 Zones (+ Record) that I need. Of course, having multiple RF-based MX-950 remotes is critical here, so we can all control components that are miles away from the bedroom and office for instance.


Good times indeed! Hope this helped in some way.


Cheers,

Brian


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, where's the new JVC projector to Anthem compatibility review???? Given the Anthem makes up well with my old fashioned 3 chip 1080p JVC (via DVI), curious minds...
> 
> 
> I'm almost up to Lamp #4, so it may be time to jump



If you already own a JVC and on Bulb #4 - Maybe JVC's Chew Up Bulbs [GRIN]!


I saw the JVC RS1 at CES - very nice!


I'm waiting for September and the new Diamond.


----------



## Nevr2Big




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have both, the OPPO 970 and the PS3.
> 
> They both sound excellent with SACD.
> 
> The PS3 maybe, I repeat maybe, a little smoother sounding...... did I mention maybe. The PS3 maybe even a little cleaner sounding. Slightly more detail.... maybe.
> 
> For some reason at a given set volume on the D2 the OPPO is slightly louder than the PS3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do prefer the user interface and on screen display of the PS3 over the 970.
> 
> 
> dc




Could someone confirm I am using optimal output/input settings?


Have the Oppo 970 going to D2 via HDMI. When playing standard audio CD the D2 display indicates that I am inputting at 480i and in 2 channel mode (using Anthem Logic Music for 5.1). This seems correct (and sounds good) but I'd like to make sure I have this routed appropriately.


Thanks.


----------



## aus

Brain, THANK YOU!! I'm having the same problem with the DTV HR10-250 that you mentioned.

How about if I have the HDMI from the HR10-250 to the Anthem and just want the same channel out of the component? Will this work. Is this what you mean by a "Copy of the Main Zone."

Also, do you know if audio is output via HDMI on the HR10-250? Thanks again.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You bet. I use the Zone 2 Component Output for my Zone 2 (Master Bedroom). I can switch the source for that zone completely independent of what is being viewed/listened to in the other zones. Works like a champ. Keep in mind, when used in this configuration, the video you get for Zone 2 is not processed by the Gennum at all, it is simply a pass through of the source, assuming the source is connected via component to the D2. But that's fine for me, as that room gets plenty of nice 1080i content direct from the source (Comcast and OTA HD channels via Tivo Series 3 for instance, upscaled DVD via the Pio 79avi, etc). Just remember that every source you plan on watching in that Zone has to be connected to the D2 via Component cables as well as whatever other cables it is connected with, otherwise you will not have independent switching in that zone, but only "Copy" of Main Zone. This is sub-optimal at best, so you're gonna need lots of extra cables depending on how many sources you have. You also need to connect Stereo L+R RCA interconnects from every source, as the other Zones are only capable of switching analog stereo for audio, not digital.
> 
> 
> As for the DirecTV box and cable box you mention, I cannot vouch for them without knowing exactly what model you're talking about. Some devices have this nasty little habit of disabling video from the Component connection if they are outputting video via HDMI at the same time. I ran into this with one such component, the DirecTV/Tivo called the HR10-250. This box has one severe limitation, that it cannot simultaneously output HDMI and Component at the same time. When you connect HDMI from it, it disables every other output. So, my way around this was to NOT use HDMI at all from the HR10-250, but only Component, Composite, SVideo and of course Optical Digital and Analog Stereo outs to the D2. Keep in mind that the D2 will transcode the Component video to HDMI for output, so in my case my TV in the Main Zone still receives its video only via HDMI from the D2, but this allows me to also get that Component signal into Zone 2 as well. Lastly, the SVideo is used because I use SVideo in my office (Zone 3), and composite is important for my DVD burner, which is connected via the last zone, the Record Zone. I give you this detail because I have heard that many other DirecTV branded boxes behave the same way, and as for cable boxes, they are generally nasty as well, or can be anyway.
> 
> 
> This level of flexibility for multi-zone functionality you bring up is EXACTLY why the D2 was a no-brainer for me, and why to this day I feel like I'm "getting away" with something by only having one set of components, all situated in one room in the house, but accessible to me in all 3 Zones (+ Record) that I need. Of course, having multiple RF-based MX-950 remotes is critical here, so we can all control components that are miles away from the bedroom and office for instance.
> 
> 
> Good times indeed! Hope this helped in some way.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Could someone confirm I am using optimal output/input settings?
> 
> 
> Have the Oppo 970 going to D2 via HDMI. When playing standard audio CD the D2 display indicates that I am inputting at 480i and in 2 channel mode (using Anthem Logic Music for 5.1). This seems correct (and sounds good) but I'd like to make sure I have this routed appropriately.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



That's fine. Since the music on the CD is not encoded in a multi-channel format, what you will be receiving is 2 channels of PCM (digital stereo). This is the highest quality signal you can get from the CD.


You could listen to that in any number of ways. To get the simple stereo, simply switch to Stereo mode. Only the Front L/R speakers (and the subwoofer if you have identified those speakers as Small) will be active. Some people are happiest with this "pure" mode. It is also useful if you are moving around the room a lot and don't want to be distracted if you happen to end up too close to a surround speaker.


Personally I prefer the mode you are using -- AL Music. This is a non-aggressive surround mode (not a lot of sound directed to the surround speakers) that operates with the Center speaker disabled so as not to affect the sound stage in front.


The Dolby Pro-Logic Music mode is a more aggressive surround mode -- more sound steered to the surround speakers. For some types of music you may prefer this.


And of course for crowded rooms, such as during parties, you may prefer the Stereo All mode that uses the surround speakers as if they were wired in parallel to the Front L/R speakers.


Keep in mind that since there is no "LFE" channel on CD music, you will only get sound from your subwoofer if you have identified your Front L/R speakers as "Small". The physical size of the speakers is not really relevant. It's just code for whether or not you want bass steered to the subwoofer. Personally I suggest always identifying your front and surround speakers as Small. However some folks prefer not to have the subwoofer used at all for music listening.


Remember that you can set up a separate "Music" speaker configuration and then assign either the Cinema or Music configuration to each overlayed input. So you could set two inputs identically except that one uses the Cinema and one the Music configuration and then A/B them to see which you like better.


There is no "right" answer to this stuff. It's all personal preference. Just make sure you have all the speaker configuration and level setting stuff set up correctly to begin with and then you can try out all the different modes on the fly and hear for yourself.


On that note, I strongly advise you get a Radio Shack Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter -- the one everyone uses -- it's inexpensive -- and use that when you are setting speaker levels. It is easy, and it is much more accurate than trying to do that by ear.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone use the Zone 2 component output?
> 
> 
> What resolution will it output and is the resolution the same as what's going out of the HDMI after the Gennum? I assume you can have a different sourse on the Zone 2 than the HDMI?
> 
> Also, will the component output video from a DirecTV or cable box? I think I read here that it'll only output non HDCP content?
> 
> I'd like to use it for the TV in the kitchen.



See this post and the post linked from it for some more comments on Zone 2 stuff:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9846704 


The Zone 2 output mode is set in the Setup / Video Output menu.


If you are copying the processed Main output to Zone 2, the input to the scaler for the Main path source device has to be something that can be converted to Component output. Component will work of course, as will S-Video. But HDMI input will likely not work since copy protected HDMI content can not be sent to any of the Component outputs.


If you are sending UNprocessed input (either from the Main path device or another device) to the Zone 2, then you have to have Component hooked up from that device -- even if the Main path is using a different cabling for what goes to the scaler. And of course that Component has to be live. Not all devices will keep their Component output live if their HDMI output is in use.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also, do you know if audio is output via HDMI on the HR10-250? Thanks again.



Keep in mind that even if it is, you can't get a digital audio input to play stereo to the Zone 2 analog stereo outputs unless you have set the Anthem to Copy Main audio to Zone 2 -- i.e., to use the same input device for audio on the both the Main path and the Zone 2 path.


You can set this in the Setup / Source Setup page for each input, or you can set it on the fly with the remote control.


If you want to use a DIFFERENT source device for Zone 2 audio output you need to hook up analog stereo audio input cables for each such source device.

--Bob


----------



## Nevr2Big




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's fine. Since the music on the CD is not encoded in a multi-channel format, what you will be receiving is 2 channels of PCM (digital stereo). This is the highest quality signal you can get from the CD.
> 
> 
> On that note, I strongly advise you get a Radio Shack Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter -- the one everyone uses -- it's inexpensive -- and use that when you are setting speaker levels. It is easy, and it is much more accurate than trying to do that by ear.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks again Bob.


I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of the JVC DLA-RS1 and am trying to optomize the remainder of my system (not so easy when I dont have a display for on-screen menus etc). Good idea, I'll try to dig up my Shack SPL meter - its been some time since I used it and this might keep my mind off the JVC vigil.


So far I am very satisfied with the D2 performance. To paraphrase the SNL Ricardo Montalban skits - it not only sounds good, it looks good.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Keep in mind you can drag in any old small TV and plug it in temporarily to make using the menus more convenient. Even an S-video connection will do the trick.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Keep in mind you can drag in any old small TV and plug it in temporarily
> 
> --Bob



From the last couple pages this could mean a 70" XBR2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

True.


Heck, I wouldn't be surprised if Levesque had his ISF tech come in and work his magic on the little screen he keeps near his seating position for reading menus....

--Bob


----------



## Unclejeff

Silly question: Does the D2 have a 'phantom center' setting? I am sure it does. Any opinions?


----------



## Don O’Brien

In the speaker setup, center=none.


This debate has raged for a long time regarding the advantages and disadvantages of having a center speaker.


Many have argued that if you a have single sweet spot in the room for listening, the phantom image created by the left and right speakers should be adequate to produce intelligible dialogue. The best base performance is difficult to achieve on the center axis of the room.


Most theaters have have several good spots for viewing and listening, but this means people will be off the center axis of the room and the dialogue will not be perceived as coming from the center of the screen. IMO, this is distracting and eliminates the ability to suspend disbelief. Multiple viewers requires the use of center speaker to anchor the dialogue to the screen.


Home theater purists... Center channel is the most important speaker in the system!!!


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Brain, THANK YOU!! I'm having the same problem with the DTV HR10-250 that you mentioned.
> 
> How about if I have the HDMI from the HR10-250 to the Anthem and just want the same channel out of the component? Will this work. Is this what you mean by a "Copy of the Main Zone."
> 
> Also, do you know if audio is output via HDMI on the HR10-250? Thanks again.



HDMI does not pass audio from an HR10-250. Also, HDMI will not work reliably from that device for feeding Component in Zone 2, even in 'Copy Main' mode...most of what's on satellite, especially the good stuff, is all HDCP protected, and you cannot transcode from HDMI to Component on that stuff - that's a no-no, and the D2 won't do it. So, you really would be wise not to use HDMI from the HR10-250 at all in my experience. Frankly, the Component quality is very good, and allows you to get the signal everywhere you could ever need it (Zones1 and 2), and allows for independent switching of Zone 2, which is nice to have. Keep in mind, there is some picture quality loss with DirecTV on the HD side because of the compression they are doing with the MPEG-2 feeds they deliver to devices like the HR10-250, so your limiting factor on picture quality is the signal itself. In other words, the game's already over when the signal hits the HR10-250, making the choice between HDMI and Component rather meaningless from a picture quality standpoint. Contrast that with the HD signals I get from Comcast, which look amazing, and with the Series 3 anyway, HDMI looks slightly better than the Component connections. Get yourself some nice component cables for that HR10-250, and you'll have decent HD with independent switching for Zones 1 and 2.


Hope this helps, and glad to know I'm not the last guy on the planet still using an HR10-250 and eeking out the last bit of life out of the old Satellite service. 


Cheers,

Brian


----------



## ddimberio

Okay, I am running version 1.11d. I think I have a new bug which I never encountered before. All of the sudden, on certain occasions, HD sourced signals are not filling the display completely. In other words, they are 16:9 in form, but simply are not filling the entire display. This happens particularly on what appears to be HD commercials on the big networks.


Also, on certain occasions, I notice even 4:3 images are shrunk inwards so everything is more squeezed and everything appears "skinnier."


When I switch sources through the Anthem and back to the source I am viewing (cable box), I get the "correct" picture again. Any suggestions?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Heck, I wouldn't be surprised if Levesque had his ISF tech come in and work his magic on the little screen he keeps near his seating position for reading menus....
> 
> --Bob










I don't need any ISF tech anymore. Since 1 year, I'm now calibrating everything myself with my Eye-One Pro. I've done alot of different projectors for friends in the last 6 months.










But you made me think of something with that remark... My 7" LCD definitely needs to be calibrated also.


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI does not pass audio from an HR10-250. Also, HDMI will not work reliably from that device for feeding Component in Zone 2, even in 'Copy Main' mode...most of what's on satellite, especially the good stuff, is all HDCP protected, and you cannot transcode from HDMI to Component on that stuff - that's a no-no, and the D2 won't do it. So, you really would be wise not to use HDMI from the HR10-250 at all in my experience. Frankly, the Component quality is very good, and allows you to get the signal everywhere you could ever need it (Zones1 and 2), and allows for independent switching of Zone 2, which is nice to have. Keep in mind, there is some picture quality loss with DirecTV on the HD side because of the compression they are doing with the MPEG-2 feeds they deliver to devices like the HR10-250, so your limiting factor on picture quality is the signal itself. In other words, the game's already over when the signal hits the HR10-250, making the choice between HDMI and Component rather meaningless from a picture quality standpoint. Contrast that with the HD signals I get from Comcast, which look amazing, and with the Series 3 anyway, HDMI looks slightly better than the Component connections. Get yourself some nice component cables for that HR10-250, and you'll have decent HD with independent switching for Zones 1 and 2.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps, and glad to know I'm not the last guy on the planet still using an HR10-250 and eeking out the last bit of life out of the old Satellite service.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Brian



I'm also still using the HR10-250, hopefully to be the HR20-250 in a couple of weeks.

But the HR10 DOES pass audio via HDMI, at least mine does.

You may want to check yours..........


dc


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm also still using the HR10-250, hopefully to be the HR20-250 in a couple of weeks.
> 
> But the HR10 DOES pass audio via HDMI, at least mine does.
> 
> You may want to check yours..........
> 
> 
> dc



Ahh, right you are! Just re-read the HR10-250 manual, and it will send digital audio via HDMI indeed. Of course, for aus' purposes, this is a moot point, because he cannot get any audio to Zone 2 independent of Zone 1 using this method. To do so, he needs to connect analog stereo outs to the D2 from this source. That, along with the fact that he cannot get Component out from this source with the HDMI connected, makes HDMI a bad choice for him from this particular source.


Incidentally, let us know how the HR20 performs when you get it. I will not be switching over, as it would require a dish swap out and I have no use for a DVR that is not a Tivo....yep, I'm one of those  I'm afraid Rupert has lost me forever to Comcast HD via Tivo Series 3 nirvana....well, all except for that pesky NFL package, which is the only thing I'm keeping the HR10-250 for....but I digress.


-B


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, I am running version 1.11d. I think I have a new bug which I never encountered before. All of the sudden, on certain occasions, HD sourced signals are not filling the display completely. In other words, they are 16:9 in form, but simply are not filling the entire display. This happens particularly on what appears to be HD commercials on the big networks.
> 
> 
> Also, on certain occasions, I notice even 4:3 images are shrunk inwards so everything is more squeezed and everything appears "skinnier."
> 
> 
> When I switch sources through the Anthem and back to the source I am viewing (cable box), I get the "correct" picture again. Any suggestions?



When you get that problem, first bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) and confirm that you haven't accidentally changed something.


What you want is Crop Input = HDMI Auto (even if you are connected via Component), and Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box. [Those are defaults of course. Feel free to play with the different settings to handle different cases.]


If that doesn't fix it, and switching to a different input and back DOES fix it, then what's happened is that your source device has not sent the correct flag for 16:9 vs. 4:3 according to the channel. This happens sometimes with the Comcast Motorola boxes over HDMI for example.


By switching away and back you force a new handshake and pretty much always the correct flag gets sent the second time around.


This sort of thing is usually only a problem if you have your set top box set to "native" resolution output so that there is a new handshake whenever you switch between SDTV and HDTV channels.

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio

This sort of thing is usually only a problem if you have your set top box set to "native" resolution output so that there is a new handshake whenever you switch between SDTV and HDTV channels.

--Bob[/quote]


Thanks again Bob. I am using a comcast DVR 6412. Sort of a pain to switch inputs and something I know my wife would never do







. Anyhow, what do you mean in your quote. My set top box is set to 16:9. Also, do you think I would have these problems running component?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob. I am using a comcast DVR 6412. Sort of a pain to switch inputs and something I know my wife would never do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Anyhow, what do you mean in your quote. My set top box is set to 16:9. Also, do you think I would have these problems running component?



For best quality video viewing you should have your 6412 set to produce 1080i for HDTV channels and 480i for SDTV channels. However this means a new HDMI handshake has to happen each time you switch between SDTV and HDTV or vice versa. Every handshake is another chance for the 6412 to screw things up.


If you set the 6412 to produce 1080i output all the time you don't have new handshakes but your SDTV viewing quality goes down. The 6412 still has to send the 16:9 vs 4:3 content flag as you change channels but odds are it will do that more reliably if it isn't also trying to reestablish the HDMI handshake at the same time.


Your 6412 should indeed be set to produce 16:9 output all the time -- even for SDTV channels. That's distinct from the flag that it transmits to the Anthem about whether the signal coming in on the channel itself is 16:9 or 4:3.


----------------------------------


I don't know whether the 6412 will screw this up over Component. However, I wouldn't lay money on that Motorola box doing much of anything right.

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio

Thanks again Bob...do I have any other options, relating to the set top box, still using my local cable provider (comcast)? I rent this unit from them.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob...do I have any other options, relating to the set top box, still using my local cable provider (comcast)? I rent this unit from them.



Yes, you do! You would find much more reliable performance and top-notch picture and sound quality by getting 2 Cablecards from Comcast, and throwing them in a Series 3 Tivo. You'd get dual tuner functionality (you record one thing, while wife watches another, or record 2 separate channels even, while watching a 3rd program from your list of recorded shows). You also get HDMI, Component, Composite and SVideo all active at the same time, as well as of course digital audio over HDMI or optical outs. You'd have music and photo streaming capability via the Tivo from a computer in the house (if you're into that sort of thing), and soon you'll be able to download films and TV shows from Amazon Unbox movie service on-demand right to your Tivo using the Broadband connection on the Tivo. Comcast will not charge for the first Cablecard, second is 2.50 per month (as opposed to the 11.95 or whatever you pay to rent your cablebox). But of course there's a cost right? The 9 bucks you save per month you now have to put toward the Tivo subscription, which is about 9 bucks per month on a 3 year subscription, more if you commit to only 2 or 1 year...oh, and the box itself, which is like 700 bucks . Why have a cablebox these days? They serve little to no purpose. The only feature they give you that the Tivo w/ Cablecard does not is Pay Per View and OnDemand. Technically, with Cablecard you can still get PPV movies by ordering over the phone from Comcast, but I suppose if you do alot of PPV it might become annoying...then again, that's what Amazon Unbox will do for ya if you like having movies delivered to your living room. Other than that, I think you'd be VERY happy with the Series 3.


Hope I don't sound like a commercial, but you asked if there were other options, there you go man!


-Brian


----------



## Nevr2Big




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Keep in mind you can drag in any old small TV and plug it in temporarily to make using the menus more convenient. Even an S-video connection will do the trick.
> 
> --Bob



I am sure this must be sacrilege, BUT:


If I input a 1080p signal via HDMI into the D2, will it DOWN-REZ to 480i output?


I have hooked up an older monitor to the D2 via S-video and can see the Anthem set-up menus fine, however when I try to see the set-up screen from my PS3 (outputting I assume 1080p via hdmi) there is nothing but a blue sceen.


If down rez cant be done I guess that would explain it (or I could have screwed-up any number of D2 settings to do this!).


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am sure this must be sacrilege, BUT:
> 
> 
> If I input a 1080p signal via HDMI into the D2, will it DOWN-REZ to 480i output?
> 
> 
> I have hooked up an older monitor to the D2 via S-video and can see the Anthem set-up menus fine, however when I try to see the set-up screen from my PS3 (outputting I assume 1080p via hdmi) there is nothing but a blue sceen.
> 
> 
> If down rez cant be done I guess that would explain it (or I could have screwed-up any number of D2 settings to do this!).



A HDMI input can not be output to any video output other than HDMI.

I'm pretty sure this a true across the board, no receiver or processor will do this.


dc


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, you do! You would find much more reliable performance and top-notch picture and sound quality by getting 2 Cablecards from Comcast, and throwing them in a Series 3 Tivo. You'd get dual tuner functionality (you record one thing, while wife watches another, or record 2 separate channels even, while watching a 3rd program from your list of recorded shows). You also get HDMI, Component, Composite and SVideo all active at the same time, as well as of course digital audio over HDMI or optical outs. You'd have music and photo streaming capability via the Tivo from a computer in the house (if you're into that sort of thing), and soon you'll be able to download films and TV shows from Amazon Unbox movie service on-demand right to your Tivo using the Broadband connection on the Tivo. Comcast will not charge for the first Cablecard, second is 2.50 per month (as opposed to the 11.95 or whatever you pay to rent your cablebox). But of course there's a cost right? The 9 bucks you save per month you now have to put toward the Tivo subscription, which is about 9 bucks per month on a 3 year subscription, more if you commit to only 2 or 1 year...oh, and the box itself, which is like 700 bucks . Why have a cablebox these days? They serve little to no purpose. The only feature they give you that the Tivo w/ Cablecard does not is Pay Per View and OnDemand. Technically, with Cablecard you can still get PPV movies by ordering over the phone from Comcast, but I suppose if you do alot of PPV it might become annoying...then again, that's what Amazon Unbox will do for ya if you like having movies delivered to your living room. Other than that, I think you'd be VERY happy with the Series 3.
> 
> 
> Hope I don't sound like a commercial, but you asked if there were other options, there you go man!
> 
> 
> -Brian



Brian. Thank you. Only problem is my child watches onDemand all the time (Dora, Thomas& Friends, & Diego) If onDemand wasn't an issue, I would do what you advised. Thanks for the input, and, sorry this is of the track of the thread everyone.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Brian. Thank you. Only problem is my child watches onDemand all the time (Dora, Thomas& Friends, & Diego) If onDemand wasn't an issue, I would do what you advised. Thanks for the input, and, sorry this is of the track of the thread everyone.



No sweat, but keep in mind these shows would simply be recorded automatically all the time via the Tivo Season Pass feature so you would have them "on demand" anytime you want them. You've got ridiculous storage space on a Tivo for all of these shows and many others. Tivo takes care of it for you, not like a 6412 motorola and other DVRs, it is night and day difference. But alas, we are WAY off topic here, so enough about that 


-B


----------



## Unclejeff

Don; Thanks for the reply regarding the use of phantom center. I do know that the D2 is at its best when using full 5.1 potential. However I am building a multi-purpose addition (the room is approx 18x12) that does have my projector mounted in the ceiling. The bay window will have a desk and my wife wants to exercise there on occasion. This is not a dedicated theater.


Hence, the use of stereo with a probable subwoofer. Yes, I have wired it for 5.1 and I do know that all systems are unalike...speakers, room dimensions, seating, furniture, etc.


Especially concerning the random seating I think most listening will be in stereo which brings me back to my original question: Do many fellow thread groupies mostly use stereo while watching movies with the D2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A HDMI input can not be output to any video output other than HDMI.
> 
> I'm pretty sure this a true across the board, no receiver or processor will do this.
> 
> 
> dc



Technically, the analog video outputs for the Main path (and the Zone 2 path if the Zone 2 video is a "processed" copy of the Main path) have to be shut off by the Anthem if the input video source to the scaler is copy protected HDMI.


There is such a thing as HDMI video which is not copy protected (i.e., doesn't activate the HDCP protocol), but practically speaking, all the interesting stuff you would want to watch IS copy protected. So no dice.


Blame an industry obsessed with Digital Rights Management.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don; Thanks for the reply regarding the use of phantom center. I do know that the D2 is at its best when using full 5.1 potential. However I am building a multi-purpose addition (the room is approx 18x12) that does have my projector mounted in the ceiling. The bay window will have a desk and my wife wants to exercise there on occasion. This is not a dedicated theater.
> 
> 
> Hence, the use of stereo with a probable subwoofer. Yes, I have wired it for 5.1 and I do know that all systems are unalike...speakers, room dimensions, seating, furniture, etc.
> 
> 
> Especially concerning the random seating I think most listening will be in stereo which brings me back to my original question: Do many fellow thread groupies mostly use stereo while watching movies with the D2?



I have a D1 (same audio except no HDMI audio connections) and have tried twice, for several weeks each time, to get the phantom center working to my satisfaction. I am running Studio 100's v3 L/R and a CC-570 center across the front. It is just not the same to me. If you are sitting dead center it is Ok, but just Ok. Any other position and it just does not sound right. What the human mind does to understand its enviroment can not be fooled by splitting sound across two speakers.


----------



## Unclejeff

Yeah , this is why I have back-up wiring for 5.1. Looks like I, too will be having two sets of speakers/wiring. I was hoping not.


----------



## akopperl

I have a new AVM-50 which came with software version 1.11 installed. I cannot get the video to output properly. The only video source I have used is the DirecTV HR20-700 set to output native (I primarily watch HD sources therefore it outputs 1080i or 720p most of the time). The picture looks fine for about 40 minutes then I begin to experience occasional flickers of snow, the flickers begin to occur more frequently until I no longer have a picture (sometimes the audio remains, but not all the time). I have tried setting the HDMI Repeater for the input to both On and Off - but still had the same results. I also tried setting Sync to both Normal and Inverted, but again there was no effect. Please note this occurs whether I am outputting 1080p or 1080i from the Anthem.


Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

akopperl,

It may help to figure out whether the problem is on the Anthem input side or output side.


Switch the Anthem to an input that has nothing connected for video. You should get a blue screen displayed. Now see if you can bring up the Anthem's Setup menu. Are the blue screen and Setup menu displaying properly? If so, then the output side seems good and the problem is likely on the input side. If not then the output side is the one to concentrate on.


You might also be suffering from the 1080 problems affecting some devices that Anthem has been addressing since the V1.11 software was released. This seems less likely since you get good video for so long. A more typical symptom would be total inability to get video. You likely have the original V1.11 software in your AVM-50. Anthem tech support can email you a newer version of test software that has been reported to work much better for folks who were seeing these problems with certain devices.


In any event, I think you should contact Anthem tech support first thing and work through this issue with them. If you've got good video for 40 minutes then there is nothing you've done wrong in setup.

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ahh, right you are! Just re-read the HR10-250 manual, and it will send digital audio via HDMI indeed.
> 
> -B



I was about to chime in and say that my HR10-250 passes audio. That is, however, until they permanently stop working (which many, many of them do.) After sending 3 of them back, I just gave up on one and use component. The other one, knock on wood, still works with HDMI.


Of course, they'll all be doorstops soon, but I digress.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh, I'm sure I'll get one of those when they come around too... I mean, come on, September, who can wait for that



I will more than happy to buy your old RS1 when the Sony will be released.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OK so it's the start of a new work week. And we have several people in this thread who are working issues with Anthem and others who are probably in contact with Anthem about how their latest trial software is doing.


But things have gone surprisingly quiet in here about new test software.


So what's up, folks? Are you being told to expect a web site software release soon, or what? Has anyone received a new AVM-50 or Statement D2 with newer than V1.11 software?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK so it's the start of a new work week. And we have several people in this thread who are working issues with Anthem and others who are probably in contact with Anthem about how their latest trial software is doing.
> 
> 
> But things have gone surprisingly quiet in here about new test software.
> 
> 
> So what's up, folks? Are you being told to expect a web site software release soon, or what? Has anyone received a new AVM-50 or Statement D2 with newer than V1.11 software?
> 
> --Bob



Everyone is out BUYING their New JVC RS-1










Ok 2nd joke of the day.


All Problems are GONE AWAY


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Everyone is out BUYING their New JVC RS-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok 2nd joke of the day.
> 
> 
> All Problems are GONE AWAY



I suspect you are right, which is why I'm surprised their hasn't been a public maintenance release of the software on the web site. And if that's true, I also can't fathom why they are still shipping V1.11 on new machines when they know that some smallish percentage of customers are going to have serious 1080i/1080p problems out of the box.


But there are some thorny issues like proper 1080i/60Hz conversion to 1080p/24Hz that I'm not sure have been sorted out yet (any luck yet SFIELD?). And there may be others being worked.


And then again, they may be waiting for some new features to get finished.


Where's the rumor mill when you need one?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where's the rumor mill when you need one?
> 
> --Bob



NO JOKE NOW - Mr. Rumor Mill is playing with his new RS-1


----------



## Ted W

I assume the D2 does _not_ have this .1 LFE bug I've been reading about...?


----------



## TReg

Those of you getting the JVC RS1 and pairing it with the D2 or AVM50, can you run a comparison test between the Gennum scaler in the R1 vs. the scaler in the D2/AVM50? I am curious which scaler performs better.


----------



## ensmarcum

My D2 was shipped with 1.11. I just got it like last week, and Nick emailed me .11f and I installed it and nothing has changed at all. My component input from my dvd player still says 1400x480i. That is the only issue I have ever had out of my D2, which I dont know if it is an issue because the picture still looks great. Can anyone tell me how it would improve my picture if it came in as 720x480i? I also just bought a oppo 970, and that is going to replace my existing sammy hd941. Anywho, I cant wait until the day comes when i can get a projector and a dedicated home theater room. Rob


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TReg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Those of you getting the JVC RS1 and pairing it with the D2 or AVM50, can you run a comparison test between the Gennum scaler in the R1 vs. the scaler in the D2/AVM50? I am curious which scaler performs better.



Seems a bit redundant, don't you think.


On a different note I'd like to see Anthem come out with killer 7-channel amp for the D2









How cool would that be......

I don't have room for a P5 & P2 in my audio rack so I've been trying various

7-channel amps, Sherbourn 7/2100A (excellent sounding amp but cosmetically doesn't match up well with the D2), Emotiva MPA-1 (probably not a keeper for various reasons) and later this week the new NAD M25 which I'm very excited about. But if Anthem had a P7................










dc


----------



## ensmarcum

I am using the pva 7 dreamcatcher. It sounds great! I auditioned some rotel gear before i bought the anthem d2/pva 7 and I would say the anthem wins hands down. Just my opinion though.


----------



## ensmarcum

It would be nice to have an amp from anthem that puts out a little more than 105wpc/ad. A P7 would be something I would buy for sure.


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It would be nice to have an amp from anthem that puts out a little more than 105wpc/ad. A P7 would be something I would buy for sure.




....Picturing the three seperate circuits required to run a P7... just gives you a warm fuzzy feeling.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Everyone is out BUYING their New JVC RS-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok 2nd joke of the day.
> 
> 
> All Problems are GONE AWAY




I have just installed the Toshiba XA2 ver:1.3 software update and everything seems more stable (I have yet to experience ANY problems) and the sound has definitely improved with the surrounds AAAaaand it is much much faster with just about all commands including startup. Assuming that its NOT my imagination and the source machine XA2 is working better I suspect that everyone is doing what I had happen and couldn't stop watching the HD reference material. Either they did something profound OR the Anthem D2 is getting better quality source material and is finally showing a consistently phenomenal result!!!!!! WOW is it good!


If you have the XA2 get the 1.3 update.......... It appears to be worth it!


Peter


----------



## ensmarcum

Neff...mmmm...more power!!!


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ....Picturing the three seperate circuits required to run a P7... just gives you a warm fuzzy feeling.



Actually it is warmer on just about EVERY level. I think Levesque and I are both running that config except he has better power conditioning............ but the sound is almost as good as Bob Pariseau's writing skills!


Peter


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually it is warmer on just about EVERY level. I think Levesque and I are both running that config except he has better power conditioning............ but the sound is almost as good as Bob Pariseau's writing skills!
> 
> 
> Peter



Aha, finally the sound of priceless....


Us po folk will have to suffer with the A series


----------



## akopperl

Nick emailed me version 1.11f today. I installed it and now I get no picture at all. I get an error message stating that the Video Output was Muted - Need HDCP Monitor. My TV (JVCFN97) is HDCP compliant and I have had no problems with other configurations.


Also, right after I installed the new software the first character on the AVM-50 display disappeared and the intensity of the display was changing from bright to dim. After I powered down and shutoff the unit via the back switch, the display seemed to work a little better.


Any ideas about what I should do at this point? I actually have version 1.10 and 1.07d and was thinking about trying to install either one of these versions.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick emailed me version 1.11f today. I installed it and now I get no picture at all. I get an error message stating that the Video Output was Muted - Need HDCP Monitor. My TV (JVCFN97) is HDCP compliant and I have had no problems with other configurations.
> 
> 
> Also, right after I installed the new software the first character on the AVM-50 display disappeared and the intensity of the display was changing from bright to dim. After I powered down and shutoff the unit via the back switch, the display seemed to work a little better.
> 
> 
> Any ideas about what I should do at this point? I actually have version 1.10 and 1.07d and was thinking about trying to install either one of these versions.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I think this may turn out to be a hardware failure, but trying the new software was a necessary step.


It is OK to try a re-install of the V1.11f software on top of itself. I would not recommend you try to go back to the prior versions without clearing it with Nick first.


In fact you might want to just let things sit until you can get back to Nick. But if you want to try to get past this yourself, here's my suggestion.


Since you are dead in the water at this point, I'm going to suggest you take the "belt and suspenders" approach to doing the re-install. The purpose of this is to maximize the chances that things will get reset properly.


So go to the first post in this thread and read the two links at the top of that post on doing a firmware install to get some background on what I'm going to suggest.


Unfortunately, doing this will cause loss of all of your settings. Even if you have a saved file of settings I'm going to suggest you *NOT* try to use it -- at least until you see if you can get the hardware functioning again by manually entering your settings. If your front panel display is working well enough to explore your current settings, you might want to take the time to go through them and write them down.


So:


* Power off the Anthem using the back panel switch.


* Power off all source devices and your display.


* Physically disconnect all HDMI input and output cables from the Anthem.


* Power on the Anthem.


* Using the front panel display of the Anthem, attempt to go to the Setup / Save and Restore settings menu and Load Factory Settings.


* Power down the Anthem.


* Connect your PC to the Anthem. It is best if you can use a direct serial port connection instead of a USB/Serial adapter.


* Re-install the V1.11f software you got from Nick. Note carefully whether or not there are any complaints during this process.


* If the re-install completes without complaint, then, again using the front panel display, go to the Setup / Save and Restore Settings menu and once again Load Factory Settings.


* Power down the Anthem. Your sources and display should still be powered off.


* Re-connect your HDMI input and output cables.


* Power on the Anthem.


* Power on a source and your display.


* Using the front panel display of the Anthem, manually reenter settings in the Setup / Video Outuput menu and see if you can get your display live again.


If so, then manually reenter the input settings for your source and see if things are working again.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k

For those using the Toshiba A2, the firmware update 1.3 dramatically improved the handshake with my AVM-50. Before the update when I powered up the the A2 it would go through about 3-5 different resolutions before it finally finished at 1080i. Sometimes it would go red tinted screen. Not anymore. Just wanted to give the heads up.


ON EDIT: Looks like I spoke to soon. Well it goes straight to the correct resolution, but the screen still has a strong red tint. I end up having to change the AVM-50 to a different input then back to the one the A2 is on. I think it is in the way my Harmony remote is powering everything up.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those using the Toshiba A2, the firmware update 1.3 dramatically improved the handshake with my AVM-50. Before the update when I powered up the the A2 it would go through about 3-5 different resolutions before it finally finished at 1080i. Sometimes it would go red tinted screen. Not anymore. Just wanted to give the heads up.
> 
> 
> ON EDIT: Looks like I spoke to soon. Well it goes straight to the correct resolution, but the screen still has a strong red tint. I end up having to change the AVM-50 to a different input then back to the one the A2 is on. I think it is in the way my Harmony remote is powering everything up.



The strong red tint is a sign that the A2 and the Anthem are confused about whether the data format is YCbCr or RGB.


This is an HDMI handshake screwup.


First, if you haven't done so already, set HDMI Repeater = NO on that Anthem input. This will keep the A2 from trying to interrogate your display THROUGH the Anthem. That's one less thing that can go wrong.


If that doesn't fix it, see if there is a setting in the A2 to force YCbCr output instead of trying to figure things out automatically.

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

I wish I could afford the P series amps. I want to get the A series but I think I would rather save my money and purchase the P series. Any thoughts of the sound differences between the two, not just the specs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My D2 was shipped with 1.11. I just got it like last week, and Nick emailed me .11f and I installed it and nothing has changed at all. My component input from my dvd player still says 1400x480i. That is the only issue I have ever had out of my D2, which I dont know if it is an issue because the picture still looks great. Can anyone tell me how it would improve my picture if it came in as 720x480i? I also just bought a oppo 970, and that is going to replace my existing sammy hd941. Anywho, I cant wait until the day comes when i can get a projector and a dedicated home theater room. Rob



Perhaps I misunderstood, I thought you said that when the Anthem showed 1440x480i Component input you were getting bad video output.


It could be as simple as that there is an error in calculating the displayed value.


I've seen occassional mismatches between what comes up if you hit the Select button and what gets displayed if you look at the Info panel in the Video Source Adjust menu. The mismatch gets fixed if you switch away from that input and back to it again, so I assume it is just a timing problem in whether that data has actually settled down at the time the status message is formatted.


That's still a bug, of course, but if your video from that source looks good it's not something to worry about. Just let Nick know that the new software didn't change anything.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK so it's the start of a new work week. And we have several people in this thread who are working issues with Anthem and others who are probably in contact with Anthem about how their latest trial software is doing.
> 
> 
> But things have gone surprisingly quiet in here about new test software.
> 
> 
> So what's up, folks? Are you being told to expect a web site software release soon, or what? Has anyone received a new AVM-50 or Statement D2 with newer than V1.11 software?
> 
> --Bob




Bob: I haven't been in here for a couple of weeks, primarily due to being busy at work, but also due to v1.11e working very well for me. I haven't noticed any glitches or bugs so far. I guess that can't be said for everyone since I see some have been issued v1.11f. So, I'm not sure what version you are inquiring about. In my case, as mentioned above, v1.11e, seem to be the ticket for me. A surprizing thing is that with this version, my picture even seems to be better than previous versions. I'm not sure if this is possible or just my imagination.


----------



## ensmarcum

Hey bob, that didnt work for me. I switched to other displays multiple times and nothing but the same thing. 1440x480i. I am getting the oppo and i will be using the hdmi connection to the d2, will that clear up that problem?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

bluemark81,

Mostly I'm looking for hints on when we can expect a public release.


There are some things in the new software that will help a lot of folks who aren't affected to the degree of going to Anthem and getting the beta software.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k

Once the wife has gone to bed I will double check the settings. I don't believe there is any way to force the data format from this player. I need to double check all the settings anyways as we had a pretty nasty weather weekend here so I disconnected power to everything in the rack.


ensmarcum, I thought strongly about going the P series route. The reasoning behind my system is I am using the Studio and AVM series. So the A series fits just right in this category. I wish my wallet stretched as far as most in this thread, but when it all comes down to it I have so far resisted the temptation of playing with the really big boy toys. We just have different means. So if you can afford the P line, I wouldn't think twice about it. If not, I promise you the A series is no sloutch by a long shot. I have the A5 right now, and soon will have to purchase a 2 channel amp (For 7.1). I have thought about moving to a P2 for the mains, but when it comes down to it I just don't think the P2 would drive these 100's that much further to justify the extra cost. Now if I was thinking of eventually moving into the signature series, there wouldn't really be an arguement. But I am ecstatic with this setup. You just have to make sure to put LEVE and the doc on ignore otherwise you start thinking of more creative ways of organizing your checkbook







(kidding of course you two)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey bob, that didnt work for me. I switched to other displays multiple times and nothing but the same thing. 1440x480i. I am getting the oppo and i will be using the hdmi connection to the d2, will that clear up that problem?



I can't say. I don't really know why it is showing that.

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

Bob, you are an awesome dude for helping everyone out, do you work at anthem? You should if you dont. Thanks anyway man.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do many fellow thread groupies mostly use stereo while watching movies with the D2?



Sacrilege. A good magnepan in the Center is worth two in the....


----------



## randman

Does anyone have any suggestions/hints for optimum settings to use for the PS3 and Wii?


My PS3 is connected via HDMI cable. I use it for playing Blu-Ray movies (in fact, I've never played games with it). I configured my PS3 to output RGB for video and Linear PCM for audio. The PS3 has a long list of supported audio settings (number of channels and frequencies) which you can choose based on what your preamp/receiver supports, or you can select the "automatic" setting (which I'm currently using). Not sure what audio output settings to select if I were to set it automatically. Has anyone played with the audio output settings? For video, I configured the PS3 to output 1080i (for Blu-Ray), since I want the D2 to do the scaling to 720p (my projector's native rate, at least until I upgrade it). Does anyone have any particular suggestions for scaler settings to use for the PS3?


I was lucky enough to find a Wii recently. The Wii is a lot of fun! Anyway, the Wii is connected via component cable to the D2. It is set to output 480p in widescreen mode. For some strange reason, the picture isn't stretched all the way to the full width of my screen. I have a 92" screen (diagonal), and the left and right of the screen has about 2" of blank space. I tried playing with the D2's scaler settings, and I couldn't figure out how to "stretch" the picture to fill the full width of the screen. One of the settings that I tried would stretch the picture, but you would also lose some of the picture at the top and bottom of the picture (not something you would want in a video game). Anyway, does anyone have any suggestions for this, and any tips for optimal settings for video games in general?


Thanks.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have just installed the Toshiba XA2 ver:1.3 software update and everything seems more stable (I have yet to experience ANY problems) and the sound has definitely improved with the surrounds AAAaaand it is much much faster with just about all commands including startup. Assuming that its NOT my imagination and the source machine XA2 is working better I suspect that everyone is doing what I had happen and couldn't stop watching the HD reference material. Either they did something profound OR the Anthem D2 is getting better quality source material and is finally showing a consistently phenomenal result!!!!!! WOW is it good!
> 
> 
> If you have the XA2 get the 1.3 update.......... It appears to be worth it!
> 
> 
> Peter



I tried to upgrade my XA2 yesterday night but finally was stuck on 24hrs









I will do it today and report.


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Perhaps I misunderstood, I thought you said that when the Anthem showed 1440x480i Component input you were getting bad video output.
> 
> 
> It could be as simple as that there is an error in calculating the displayed value.
> 
> 
> I've seen occassional mismatches between what comes up if you hit the Select button and what gets displayed if you look at the Info panel in the Video Source Adjust menu. The mismatch gets fixed if you switch away from that input and back to it again, so I assume it is just a timing problem in whether that data has actually settled down at the time the status message is formatted.
> 
> 
> That's still a bug, of course, but if your video from that source looks good it's not something to worry about. Just let Nick know that the new software didn't change anything.
> 
> --Bob



In my case the resulting picture is very poor. When you select scale to bypass you can see that the 480i source is displayed as a 1440x480 picture (very wide) with additional black vertical lines. When I scale this to 1080p the resulting picture is obviously not good, full of jaggies and deformed. Anthem is trouble shooting this issue. It is definitively more than just the displayed information on the 480i frame being incorrect, at least in my case. My current work around is to use 480p on all my component sources, but of course one of the reasons I bought the AVM50 is to use its excellent deinterlacing capabilities, so I am looking forward to have this issue resolved ASAP. /LB


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey bob, that didnt work for me. I switched to other displays multiple times and nothing but the same thing. 1440x480i. I am getting the oppo and i will be using the hdmi connection to the d2, will that clear up that problem?



I have the Oppo (DV-970HD) also and have tried both outputs.


When feeding the AVM50 with 480i over component the detected frame is 1440x480i with very poor picture quality as result (jaggies and deformed).


However, when feeding the AVM50 with 480i over HDMI the detected frame is a correct 720x480i with excellent result!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the Oppo (DV-970HD) also and have tried both outputs.
> 
> 
> When feeding the AVM50 with 480i over component the detected frame is 1440x480i with very poor picture quality as result (jaggies and deformed).
> 
> 
> However, when feeding the AVM50 with 480i over HDMI the detected frame is a correct 720x480i with excellent result!



Thanks for the update. This is very odd. Please do let us know how Anthem fixes this.

--Bob


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My D2 was shipped with 1.11. I just got it like last week, and Nick emailed me .11f and I installed it and nothing has changed at all. My component input from my dvd player still says 1400x480i. That is the only issue I have ever had out of my D2, which I dont know if it is an issue because the picture still looks great. Can anyone tell me how it would improve my picture if it came in as 720x480i? I also just bought a oppo 970, and that is going to replace my existing sammy hd941. Anywho, I cant wait until the day comes when i can get a projector and a dedicated home theater room. Rob



Rob, have you tried to bypass scaling to see how the native picture is displayed. If it has the proper dimension you probably do not have a serious issue. In my case the non-scaled frame size is truley 1440x480, which is obvious when looking at the non-scaled source. The picture is very wide (twice as wide when comparing to a 480p feed from the same source), which causes a deformed picture when I scale to proper output resolution.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

randman,

You asked about PS3 settings. I don't use one, but in general YCbCr is the more normal choice for data format over HDMI to HDMI connnections than RGB.


On the audio side, in generarl you want the player to send 5.1 channels of high bandwidth PCM when playing Blu-Ray discs so that the player does any decoding. You want "bitstream" when playing standard DVDs so that the Anthem decodes the Dolby Digital or DTS.


I haven't followed whether there are any specific settings you need to use or avoid in the PS3 to stay away from trouble.

--Bob


----------



## nhey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ted W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I assume the D2 does _not_ have this .1 LFE bug I've been reading about...?



Could an owner please answer this question?


My Pioneer Elite vsx84txi has this bug. When listening to my Toshiba Xa2 over HDMI, and when outputting one of the new audio formats, the receiver doesn't boost the LFE channel by 10 db. Does the D2 correctly do this???


----------



## ensmarcum

Lars, I havent tried anything. I am going to wait until the oppo gets here tomorrow. I will post what happens.


Neff...brother me too. I wish I had the money to get those two. I could get them but I dont know that I would be able to eat for about 6 months, plus I think the wife might move on if I did that...hheee...maybe...no really.... What a dream it would be to get the P2/5 though, I think it would be even better to get 2 P2's to biamp/wire my fronts...talk about over kill but probably a very smooth sound. Lev is some kind of crazy man, that home theater he has kicks a$$. I am looking at building a house, so that I can have my own home theater room, I currently live in a brand new military house, but I can just convert the garage into a home theater...or could I? Nah! Rob


----------



## ensmarcum

Of topic subject....what would you think of using ferrite beads on interconnects, speaker wire, power cords and cable for the tv?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nhey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Could an owner please answer this question?
> 
> 
> My Pioneer Elite vsx84txi has this bug. When listening to my Toshiba Xa2 over HDMI, and when outputting one of the new audio formats, the receiver doesn't boost the LFE channel by 10 db. Does the D2 correctly do this???



I would not call this a BUG.


The D2 will do ANYTHING you program it to do!


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would not call this a BUG.
> 
> 
> The D2 will do ANYTHING you program it to do!



Not to mention the XA2 may be the problem to begin with.


And another tidbit, I ordered a D2 over the weekend and found out that instead of the 2-3 day shipment time my dealer called and they are back ordered 2-3 weeks...










larry


----------



## rudolpht

Is anyone having trouble with a long delay syncing with the XA2 with the 11f release?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And another tidbit, I ordered a D2 over the weekend and found out that instead of the 2-3 day shipment time my dealer called and they are back ordered 2-3 weeks...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> larry



2-3 weeks seems to be the norm. Of course I could be wrong.


When I bought mine back in October it was that way also.


I even had TROUBLE finding a dealer who had one to demo.

I had to drive 3 hours to another STATE to find one.


----------



## ensmarcum

It took me a few weeks to get mine in also, but the dealer let me borrow his until it came in.


----------



## Ted W

Here's a question (and forgive me, because this thread is loooooong): is there any truly indispensable feature that the D2 offers that the 50 does not? In looking at the significant price differential, one has to ask.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is anyone having trouble with a long delay syncing with the XA2 with the 11f release?



Though I hate to "self-quote," I went back to 11e and the issue seems to go away.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ted W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's a question (and forgive me, because this thread is loooooong): is there any truly indispensable feature that the D2 offers that the 50 does not? In looking at the significant price differential, one has to ask.



This is the loaded question of the thread, other than the question if people watch movies in stereo










Differences:

1) Bragging rights

2) More horsepower for more refined sound (a quality not to be diminished)

3) Potential expandability for Room Eq (with $1K microphone







)


More seriously, it depends on priorities. I was looking for the best benefit:cost ratio for the most superior video for my 1080p setup with enveloping theater sound. Add in a level of customization on top. The AVM-50 was the clear winner in terms of benefit:cost for MY criteria. I could not justify the D2 (which I may regret at upgrade time because it will take longer to get an AVM upgrade than a Statement upgrade, but I'll likely just spring for the next gen anyways). Would suggest it is an issue of priorities. Personally I would NEVER buy an AVM-40 because it lacks the thing I value the most (video processing), even if the sound is sweet, etc. I would ask first what your priorities are, and understand if the next $ threshold is worth the feature set combined with some less quantitative measures.


----------



## Ted W

What are you referring to by "more horsepower"?


My priorities would be video processing combined with an excellent (audio) pre/pro. If there is no performance hit in the video processing department -- i.e., if the two do exactly the same thing -- then I think my bank account would like the 50 a whole lot better.


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the update. This is very odd. Please do let us know how Anthem fixes this.
> 
> --Bob



I was advised by Anthem support today that I likely have a hardware problem, so I have notified my dealer to arrange for an exchange.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ted W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What are you referring to by "more horsepower"?
> 
> 
> My priorities would be video processing combined with an excellent (audio) pre/pro. If there is no performance hit in the video processing department -- i.e., if the two do exactly the same thing -- then I think my bank account would like the 50 a whole lot better.



Those are my priorities too, but there is more processing power for sound processing. That IS the fundamental difference. I don't know from specs or A/B auditioning that this is discernible (it is not by me, a different amp has a more pronounced difference than AVM-50 vs D2, but I'm not an audiophile and clearly video with stellar sound is good enough vs unsurpassed sound.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And another tidbit, I ordered a D2 over the weekend and found out that instead of the 2-3 day shipment time my dealer called and they are back ordered 2-3 weeks...



Pooper.


The D2/AVM50 is REALLY popular and demand is sky high. Anthem are barely able to meet that demand. They sell alot more units then what was expected.


The AVM50/D2 are unique and breakthrough products on the market right now. That combination of world class sound and top notch video processing is unique, and they are really popular with custom installers.


You wouldn't believe how many people I know with high-end rooms and set-ups (and not posting on the internet) that are using the D2 or AVM50. Alot of those made the switch from Lexicon to Anthem in the last year.


Anthem did hit a home-run with the D2/AVM50, and all the other pre/pros manufacturers were totally caught with their pants off.


----------



## THX Mode

Hi Guys,


Last night I became a double agent in the format war and came home with a Sony Pearl and Sony BDP-S1 BluRay player.


In connecting the gear up - the Sony is in the same fashion as my XA1 - and I set its output to 1080/24 - since the Pearl accepts this. I also went into my D2 and set the output to 1080/24 as well.


So where the picture is incredible - it seems to slow down (almost like a streamed video) then catch up - play normal - then slow down again - all in a matter of a few seconds, but is extremely annoying.


To try to fix this I went back to the player and switched the 1080/24 to 'off' - and kept the D2 at 1080/24 to see if it was an issue with the player. It was not - the Anthem kept doing the same thing to the picture.


The end fix was to set the Anthem to 1080/60 - and the picture was stable.


I'm a little bummed at this - as I was totally expecting this to work fine - and I do apologize if this was covered elsewhere in this massive thread. But I'm looking for any opinions on things I may have missed... any help is appreciated (D2 is at ver 1.11)


----------



## THX Mode

Hmm... in looking at the manual - looks like Frame Lock may have to be investigated (?) ...


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> randman,
> 
> You asked about PS3 settings. I don't use one, but in general YCbCr is the more normal choice for data format over HDMI to HDMI connnections than RGB.
> 
> 
> On the audio side, in generarl you want the player to send 5.1 channels of high bandwidth PCM when playing Blu-Ray discs so that the player does any decoding. You want "bitstream" when playing standard DVDs so that the Anthem decodes the Dolby Digital or DTS.
> 
> 
> I haven't followed whether there are any specific settings you need to use or avoid in the PS3 to stay away from trouble.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the info. Yes, I configured my PS3 to send LPCM out to the D2. I'm using the PS3 as a blue-ray movie player; I haven't actually played games with it.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is anyone having trouble with a long delay syncing with the XA2 with the 11f release?



How do you qualify long delay?


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TReg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Those of you getting the JVC RS1 and pairing it with the D2 or AVM50, can you run a comparison test between the Gennum scaler in the R1 vs. the scaler in the D2/AVM50? I am curious which scaler performs better.



I'll be happy to, but I'm in the second batch of orders (I presume), so it will be a few weeks at best. Hopefully someone in the first group will beat me to it and provide an answer.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It would be nice to have an amp from anthem that puts out a little more than 105wpc/ad. A P7 would be something I would buy for sure.



Would it need 3 electrical cords, and 3 dedicated circuits


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Would it need 3 electrical cords, and 3 dedicated circuits





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ....Picturing the three seperate circuits required to run a P7... just gives you a warm fuzzy feeling.




Whoops. God, I hate when someone beats me to a good joke.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX Mode* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> Last night I became a double agent in the format war and came home with a Sony Pearl and Sony BDP-S1 BluRay player.
> 
> 
> In connecting the gear up - the Sony is in the same fashion as my XA1 - and I set its output to 1080/24 - since the Pearl accepts this. I also went into my D2 and set the output to 1080/24 as well.
> 
> 
> So where the picture is incredible - it seems to slow down (almost like a streamed video) then catch up - play normal - then slow down again - all in a matter of a few seconds, but is extremely annoying.
> 
> 
> To try to fix this I went back to the player and switched the 1080/24 to 'off' - and kept the D2 at 1080/24 to see if it was an issue with the player. It was not - the Anthem kept doing the same thing to the picture.
> 
> 
> The end fix was to set the Anthem to 1080/60 - and the picture was stable.
> 
> 
> I'm a little bummed at this - as I was totally expecting this to work fine - and I do apologize if this was covered elsewhere in this massive thread. But I'm looking for any opinions on things I may have missed... any help is appreciated (D2 is at ver 1.11)



Poster SFIELD reported that the Anthem's built-in signal timings for 1080p/24Hz where not compatible with the Pearl. He posted a set of Custom video output settings that either fixed the problem or came close to fixing it.


See the links posted at the beginning of the first post in this thread. One will take you to SFIELD's post with his Custom video output settings.


There's another link in that list that further explains the use of the Frame Lock feature.


It's been a while since SFIELD posted his settings. You may also want to contact Anthem technical support and see if they have any further info on this or perhaps even updated 1080p/24Hz output software.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was advised by Anthem support today that I likely have a hardware problem, so I have notified my dealer to arrange for an exchange.



That makes good sense. Please do let us know if the new unit fixes the problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ted W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What are you referring to by "more horsepower"?
> 
> 
> My priorities would be video processing combined with an excellent (audio) pre/pro. If there is no performance hit in the video processing department -- i.e., if the two do exactly the same thing -- then I think my bank account would like the 50 a whole lot better.



Ted, the D2 and the AVM-50 are identical as regards the video solution.


The D2 has a better power supply, a more "exotic" audio solution, and spare DSP processing power that is expected to be used by a Room EQ upgrade sometime this year.


There's a comparison chart in the AVM section of the Anthem site that lists feature differences -- including the D2. The actual feature differences between the D2 and the AVM-50 are few.


I've not seen any worthwhile audio comparisons of the D2 vs. the AVM-50. However the audio section of the D2 is a D1, and the audio section of the AVM-50 is an AVM-30. So if you go looking for audio comparisons between the D1 and the AVM-30 you may find some useful stuff.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Though I hate to "self-quote," I went back to 11e and the issue seems to go away.



Interesting, and disturbing. Please do let Anthem know that V1.11f might have been a step backwards.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ted W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I assume the D2 does _not_ have this .1 LFE bug I've been reading about...?



This is a very important question, and I wish I felt more confident about the answer.


I pushed on this here with folks who should be able to test and confirm the answer back around the holidays (I don't have the player to do this myself), and the consensus result was that the D2 and AVM-50 do *NOT* suffer from this problem. But I'm not really sure any of the folks responding actually tested the right thing. They may have, but the folks who responded didn't actually spell it out enough for me to be sure.


If the D2 had the problem I would expect more complaints from the folks who populate this thread, but the comments in other threads make it clear that people can confuse themselves into thinking there is no problem here.


--------------------------------------------------


For folks who don't know what we are talking about, see this thread in the Audio Theory forum here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=748147 


In short, any receiver or pre/pro that handles multi-channel analog audio input via RCA, or multi-channel PCM input via HDMI, should, by default, boost the LFE input signal by 10dB prior to mixing with any other base signals and output to the subwoofer.


Failure to do this will lead to weak bass when listening to multi-channel analog tracks or multi-channel PCM tracks (as from HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players). To fulfill its role as a channel for recording *LOUD* bass (explosions and stuff), the LFE channel is deliberately recorded 10dB low so as to avoid clipping in processing and transmission prior to output. This is by design. It is not a mistake in the audio track or a bug in the player. It is the job of the receiver or pre-pro to boost LFE to get it back to where it is supposed to be prior to output. LFE for Dolby Digital and DTS has worked this way for years.


Boosting total subwoofer output in the receiver or pre-pro is not a proper fix for this since that also incorrectly boosts bass steered to the subwoofer from the main speakers.


The LFE boosting also happens when standard Dolby Digital or DTS is decoded in the receiver or pre/pro, but since that's such a commodity technology EVERYBODY gets that right. The only issue is with LFE on multi-channel analog or multi-channel PCM input.


There ARE a few odd-ball cases where the LFE boost is INCORRECT (see the cited thread), and thus the receiver or pre/pro needs a feature for the user to temporarily *CUT* LFE by 10dB. The D2 and AVM-50 do have that feature -- a temporary cut of JUST the LFE available as a second press under the Subwoofer key on the remote. However that feature only allows LFE to be cut, so it can't be used to boost just LFE to fix the bug at issue here if the D2 or AVM-50 actually have that bug.


The test of whether the D2 or AVM-50 have the bug involves playing the same track via multi-channel PCM over HDMI and also as the compatibility "bitstream" track over HDMI or (optical/coax digital audio cabling) that gets decoded in the D2 as an incoming DTS track. If the D2 or AVM-50 has the bug, bass in the PCM version will be significantly weaker. The effect is not subtle. For correct operation, bass in the two tracks needn't be completely identical, but if the bug is in there the PCM version will be noticeably anemic.

--Bob


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Pooper.
> 
> 
> The D2/AVM50 is REALLY popular and demand is sky high. Anthem are barely able to meet that demand. They sell alot more units then what was expected.
> 
> 
> The AVM50/D2 are unique and breakthrough products on the market right now. That combination of world class sound and top notch video processing is unique, and they are really popular with custom installers.
> 
> 
> You wouldn't believe how many people I know with high-end rooms and set-ups (and not posting on the internet) that are using the D2 or AVM50. Alot of those made the switch from Lexicon to Anthem in the last year.
> 
> 
> Anthem did hit a home-run with the D2/AVM50, and all the other pre/pros manufacturers were totally caught with their pants off.



I believe it. The dealer I got mine from was my first dealing with him, and only because he was the local Anthem dealer. He said he doesn't have to "sell" the D2's, he just takes orders.







One thing I believe I knew at one time, but forgot, is that Anthem is Sonic Frontiers (basically).


larry


----------



## Audio_Geek_00

Bob,

You might consider a Logitech Harmony 670 or 880 (depending on budget). They are macro-programmable via a PC and provide USB connection. It is an "activity" based setup that allows easy setup of all of your components for watching TV, watching a movie, or listening to music with the touch of a single button. My wife is a technophobe and i had to come up with a solution that would make it easy for her to use and the Harmony fit the bill. It even has a simple troubleshooting guide that she can work through and get things corrected if a component gets out of sync with the macro's. I have had Zero complaints from her since having the 670. The 880 is a bit nicer with the color display. And the position of the buttons for DVR operation is in a better location than the 670. You can find them cheaper than MSRP. Good luck.

AG


----------



## Ted W

Thanks, Bob.


----------



## PooperScooper

The linked post on audio was good reading, I hadn't seen it before. Using a HD-DVD combo disc on a player might be a good test disc. Use coax out for playing the SD side with DD or DTS and then the HD-DVD side with multichannel (decoded audio) PCM via HDMI or analog. The audio for the same movie should make it easy to hear difference in certain scenes depending on which flavor of video format. From what I read today it looks like the Tosh problems may be sending LFE 20db low only for HD audio, maybe getting mixed up when trying to BM also.


larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The linked post on audio was good reading, I hadn't seen it before. Using a HD-DVD combo disc on a player might be a good test disc. Use coax out for playing the SD side with DD or DTS and then the HD-DVD side with multichannel (decoded audio) PCM via HDMI or analog. The audio for the same movie should make it easy to hear difference in certain scenes depending on which flavor of video format. From what I read today it looks like the Tosh problems may be sending LFE 20db low only for HD audio, maybe getting mixed up when trying to BM also.
> 
> 
> larry



A simpler test for a player that can send either PCM or bitstream over HDMI from a given high bandwidth track would be to play the SAME track as full bandwidth PCM and as "core" or "compatibility" bitstream. If there's a bug in the Anthem the bass from the PCM version will be weak.


To be sure no speaker configuration stuff is being done inside the player, lie to the player and tell it all of your speakers are large, all at the same distance, and all at the same volume.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Bob: I eluded to the fact that the last software that I downloaded (1.11e), seems to give a better picture than previous versions. Is this possible or just my imagination?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob: I eluded to the fact that the last software that I downloaded (1.11e), seems to give a better picture than previous versions. Is this possible or just my imagination?



It is certainly possible, although I haven't seen any changes listed by Anthem that would specifically address this.


I'm convinced that V1.11 gave me better video from my Comcast HD/DVR (connected via HDMI) compared to V1.06 for example. I'm not sure why. HDMI from my standard DVD player does not seem to have changed. It was and is still very good.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll be happy to, but I'm in the second batch of orders (I presume), so it will be a few weeks at best. Hopefully someone in the first group will beat me to it and provide an answer.



It initially looks like the RS1 will benefit greatly from an external scaler with SD material as there are reports of what looks like a CUE/Scaling issue with 576i (and possibly 480i) signals based on the CINE4Home review and comments from VirusKiller:


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A simpler test for a player that can send either PCM or bitstream over HDMI from a given high bandwidth track would be to play the SAME track as full bandwidth PCM and as "core" or "compatibility" bitstream. If there's a bug in the Anthem the bass from the PCM version will be weak.
> 
> 
> To be sure no speaker configuration stuff is being done inside the player, lie to the player and tell it all of your speakers are large, all at the same distance, and all at the same volume.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, good point, as long as the "down" conversion to DTS from the DD+ or TrueHD is done properly. The biggest problem seems to be knowing whether or not the player is working correctly.










larry


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> It initially looks like the RS1 will benefit greatly from an external scaler with SD material as there are reports of what looks like a CUE/Scaling issue with 576i (and possibly 480i) signals based on the CINE4Home review and comments from VirusKiller:



Many players don't filter ICP for 480i/576i ouptut and some deinterlacers don't also. And from what Stacey says most, if not all, MPEG decoders suffer from ICP to some degree. CUE is an added bonus sometimes.










larry


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you qualify long delay?



like 90-180 seconds to sync. Problem went away going backwards to 1.11e.


It was truye both before and after upgrading the XA2 to firmware 1.3, so the problem was on the Anthem end. I also lost total picture on S3 Tivo, so I just think the f release was not for me


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting, and disturbing. Please do let Anthem know that V1.11f might have been a step backwards.
> 
> --Bob



Absolutely keep Nick appraised, including stepping back. If we don't tell the support it doesn't get better, and it's a big juggling act to begin with. This is the first release I had to do a roll back on so I was surprised.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob: I eluded to the fact that the last software that I downloaded (1.11e), seems to give a better picture than previous versions. Is this possible or just my imagination?




It may be mass hysteria, but I thought I did get a better picture from 11.e also vs prior updates/versions. Strange (but good).


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As I recall there is a check box in the Setup Editor for whether you want the video settings to be saved as well.
> 
> 
> That said, I only use it during software upgrades and I have noticed occassional settings that were not restored correctly. But I've assumed that was due to differences between the old and new software.
> 
> 
> If you are playing with this now, perhaps you can check and report. I would consider it a bug if it can't handle the complete set of settings -- including custom video resolution for example -- saved and restored on the same software.
> 
> --Bob



An update -


Anthem have confirmed that the Setup Editor is not meant to handle the Video Settings, only the configuration that is set via the setup menu on the OSD. All video settings accessed via "7" (including custom video resolutions) are handled with the Live Video Settings Editor. I today received a new beta release (1.11g) of the Live Video Settings Editor and I am happy to report that it now fetch and save settings for all sources (not only the active source). So, by taking configuration backups from both the Setup Editor and the Live Video Settings Editor we should get a complete configuration backup.


Overall I am very happy with these PC based tools as a means to manipulate and save the complete AVM50/D2 configurations! This is yet another reason I am VERY satisfied with this product!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> An update -
> 
> 
> Anthem have confirmed that the Setup Editor is not meant to handle the Video Settings, only the configuration that is set via the setup menu on the OSD. All video settings accessed via "7" (including custom video resolutions) are handled with the Live Video Settings Editor. I today received a new beta release (1.11g) of the Live Video Settings Editor and I am happy to report that it now fetch and save settings for all sources (not only the active source). So, by taking configuration backups from both the Setup Editor and the Live Video Settings Editor we should get a complete configuration backup.
> 
> 
> Overall I am very happy with these PC based tools as a means to manipulate and save the complete AVM50/D2 configurations! This is yet another reason I am VERY satisfied with this product!!



Thanks for the update!


I'm glad that they fixed Live Settings Editor to do this correctly, but it's odd that Setup Editor can't do this as well. Setup Editor is described as the tool for moving a configuration from one unit to another, and if it doesn't handle the Video Source Adjust settings then obviously that doesn't work.


Oh well, no big deal so long as folks know they need to use both. Once we get this as a public release of the software we should probably add a link to this info in the links collection in the first post. (LEVESQUE?)


---------------------------------------


Any other info on what V1.11g is supposed to address?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> but it's odd that Setup Editor can't do this as well.
> 
> --Bob



Well there are still more Setup Editor problems that I mentioned

before - that I am sure Anthem will fix. We don't need to air

them here.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> An update -
> 
> 
> Anthem have confirmed that the Setup Editor is not meant to handle the Video Settings, only the configuration that is set via the setup menu on the OSD. All video settings accessed via "7" (including custom video resolutions) are handled with the Live Video Settings Editor. I today received a new beta release (1.11g) of the Live Video Settings Editor and I am happy to report that it now fetch and save settings for all sources (not only the active source). So, by taking configuration backups from both the Setup Editor and the Live Video Settings Editor we should get a complete configuration backup.
> 
> 
> Overall I am very happy with these PC based tools as a means to manipulate and save the complete AVM50/D2 configurations! This is yet another reason I am VERY satisfied with this product!!



How about when you use the Anthem itself to save user settings? Does that also save the video settings? I know when I upgraded my firmware to 1.11, some of my video settings didn't get saved.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> An update -
> 
> 
> Anthem have confirmed that the Setup Editor is not meant to handle the Video Settings, only the configuration that is set via the setup menu on the OSD. All video settings accessed via "7" (including custom video resolutions) are handled with the Live Video Settings Editor. I today received a new beta release (1.11g) of the Live Video Settings Editor and I am happy to report that it now fetch and save settings for all sources (not only the active source). So, by taking configuration backups from both the Setup Editor and the Live Video Settings Editor we should get a complete configuration backup.
> 
> 
> Overall I am very happy with these PC based tools as a means to manipulate and save the complete AVM50/D2 configurations! This is yet another reason I am VERY satisfied with this product!!



Cool.


----------



## randman

Anthem just sent me v1.11g. It contains a fix so that an iPod dock with S-Video OSD will work with it. Haven't tried it with my Velodyne SMS-1 yet though. I'll see if I get some time this weekend to play with it. Anyone else with a Velodyne SMS-1 or DD sub that got 1.11g?


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anthem just sent me v1.11g. It contains a fix so that an iPod dock with S-Video OSD will work with it. Haven't tried it with my Velodyne SMS-1 yet though. I'll see if I get some time this weekend to play with it. Anyone else with a Velodyne SMS-1 or DD sub that got 1.11g?




Hi,

I have an SMS-1 how do I get 1.11g?

/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have an SMS-1 how do I get 1.11g?
> 
> /\\/\\



Contact Anthem tech support. Understand that this is test software so it may have a few surprises.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

I am sorry if this has been asked , but is the warranty on the D2 transferable?

Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am sorry if this has been asked , but is the warranty on the D2 transferable?
> 
> Thanks



Anthem's warranty for Canada and the USA is not transferable unless the product is "traded in" to an authorized dealer who then resells it with the remaining warranty.


The complete warranty terms can be found towards the back of the D2 owner's manual, which is available for free download from the Anthem web site.


I don't know if Anthem will make any exceptions if, say, you ask them nicely and it is clear that there are no shenanigans going on. Your safest bet is probably to get an authorized dealer involved in the transaction.

--Bob


----------



## Lars158




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lars158* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was advised by Anthem support today that I likely have a hardware problem, so I have notified my dealer to arrange for an exchange.



Well, as I was waiting for an exchange unit to ship I was contacted by Anthem technical support (Nick) to test yet another software release where an issue had been corrected related to the analog component inputs. He thought this could resolve the problem I had reported where the AVM50/D2 incorrectly detects a 1440x480i frame when feeding a 480i source over component, with a resulting poor picture (jaggies etc). Well, I am happy to report that with the 1.11g release all these issues are resolved!! The AVM50/D2 now correctly detects a 720x480i frame when feeding 480i over component and the resulting picture quality is excellent!!


Thanks to Nick and the technical support team for nailing this issue in just a few days. I must say that the support level on this product is excellent!










Case closed... /LB


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Lars158,

Outstanding! I think they may have found something fundamental here for the analog video inputs. This new software, when it finally becomes available as a public release, should be pretty nifty.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lars158,
> 
> Outstanding! I think they may have found something fundamental here for the analog video inputs. This new software, when it finally becomes available as a public release, should be pretty nifty.
> 
> --Bob



Actually this could conceivably be huge for some of us............I think of my own situation with the sony 777ES mega changer (400 DVD's) with the Escient box to manage my library of SD DVD's. If the fix truly fixes the resolution with 480i over component to the D2, I could be a very happy camper.


Bob P, how does the current versioning of the software on the site work? Is the 1.11 a or b or f or g????? will their likely be a formal announcement for a full production sanctioned release with say a version 1.12 on the website? I believe that although most of my stuff works with 1.10 that there are now enough fixes and refinements to warrant an upgrade but I think I will wait for a formal announcement unless there won't be one and the current download is quietly substituted with 1.11g.


Any advice????


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually this could conceivably be huge for some of us............I think of my own situation with the sony 777ES mega changer (400 DVD's) with the Escient box to manage my library of SD DVD's. If the fix truly fixes the resolution with 480i over component to the D2, I could be a very happy camper.
> 
> Peter



Peter - I run 480i [via component] from a OLD Sony 7700 DVD

Player and I have absolutely NO trouble with my D2, running

vanilla 1.11.


What is the problem you are having?


Hank


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It initially looks like the RS1 will benefit greatly from an external scaler with SD material as there are reports of what looks like a CUE/Scaling issue with 576i (and possibly 480i) signals based on the CINE4Home review and comments from VirusKiller:



This just means the player they used has CUE issues and the RS-1 doesn't have a CUE filter. They are using the VXP chip but they might not have the feature enabled on the chip or in the menu.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Peter - I run 480i [via component] from a OLD Sony 7700 DVD
> 
> Player and I have absolutely NO trouble with my D2, running
> 
> vanilla 1.11.
> 
> 
> What is the problem you are having?
> 
> 
> Hank



The Sony 777ES is a 400 DVD megachanger (sort of in the same league as the Pio Elite series, I think). I am controlling it with an Escient box that provides the graphical overlay to manage your library. Sorry Hank, I know you probably already know all this but when I force the Sony to output ONLY 480i by setting a physical switch on the back of the Sony the resulting image is totally distorted and all colours are corrupted. I fixed it By forcing the Sony to output only 480P and at least the result is watchable BUT far from what it could be if the D2 received the raw 480i signal in the first place. This was the case with ver 1.06. I had not tried it again with ver 1.10 because (are you ready for this?) there is about a three hundred foot walk from the front of my equipment rack to the access port on the back.


This is what happens Hank, when you build your home theater FIRST and then add your house as an afterthought. As noted earlier, although ideal and likely every hometheater buffs wetdream a totally separate single purpose Home Theater building can have its disadvantages to the lazy owner who fails to plan on the long walk to go from the front to the rear access port.


Sooooo I have been waiting for a somewhat stable platform release to go back there and unhook all the HDMI cables to do the next upgrade and then change the switch setting on the back of the sony at the same time!!!!!!! I'll bet you are sorry you asked after all this...........


Still your friend........... albeit lazy but loyal,

Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually this could conceivably be huge for some of us............I think of my own situation with the sony 777ES mega changer (400 DVD's) with the Escient box to manage my library of SD DVD's. If the fix truly fixes the resolution with 480i over component to the D2, I could be a very happy camper.
> 
> 
> Bob P, how does the current versioning of the software on the site work? Is the 1.11 a or b or f or g????? will their likely be a formal announcement for a full production sanctioned release with say a version 1.12 on the website? I believe that although most of my stuff works with 1.10 that there are now enough fixes and refinements to warrant an upgrade but I think I will wait for a formal announcement unless there won't be one and the current download is quietly substituted with 1.11g.
> 
> 
> Any advice????
> 
> 
> Peter



Peter as best I can tell the software on the web site, and the software being put into new machines by Anthem, are both still the original V1.11.


I don't know how close they are to deciding the test software, such as V1.11g, is ready for public release -- probably as V1.12, or possibly even V1.20. Right now, the only way to get v1.11g is direct from Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This just means the player they used has CUE issues and the RS-1 doesn't have a CUE filter. They are using the VXP chip but they might not have the feature enabled on the chip or in the menu.



Now that certainly makes a lot of sense, and I appreciate the clarification. So if the player they were using was sent through (for example) the D2 with the VXP, this artifact would not be seen since the D2 has the filter implemented correctly?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Sony 777ES is a 400 DVD megachanger
> 
> Peter



Whether you have a Sony Megachanger or Just a Single

DVD Sony Player - 480i Component should be no different.

At the end of the day - you can only play 1 DVD at a time

just like me.


----------



## abc999




I pushed on this here with folks who should be able to test and confirm the answer back around the holidays (I don't have the player to do this myself) said:


> Last night I used a SPL meter centered at 62 hertz and began playing "Hotel California" from the Eagles HD DVD concert. At its reference level of "0" at the AVM50 processor, the reading was between 89 and 93 dB at the subwoofer output using the bitstream setting with my HD-A1.. I deliberately shut off all of my 6 channels and listened only to the bass content of this title. When I switched to PCM, the Bass dropped to around 80 dB( same reference level "0").
> 
> 
> I am using a HDMI cable, no coax or optical cable connected.
> 
> 
> Does this confirm that the AVM50/D2 has the LFE bug?


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Last night I used a SPL meter centered at 62 hertz and began playing "Hotel California" from the Eagles HD DVD concert. At its reference level of "0" at the AVM50 processor, the reading was between 89 and 93 dB at the subwoofer output using the bitstream setting with my HD-A1.. I deliberately shut off all of my 6 channels and listened only to the bass content of this title. When I switched to PCM, the Bass dropped to around 80 dB( same reference level "0").
> 
> 
> I am using a HDMI cable, no coax or optical cable connected.
> 
> 
> Does this confirm that the AVM50/D2 has the LFE bug?



Well it does mean the LFE level is lower but is it lower compared to the rest of the speakers? I think you'd have to measure bitstream vs PCM output with all your speakers active to find out if the other speaker levels go down as well. It may all be relative.............


dc


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Last night I used a SPL meter centered at 62 hertz and began playing "Hotel California" from the Eagles HD DVD concert. At its reference level of "0" at the AVM50 processor, the reading was between 89 and 93 dB at the subwoofer output using the bitstream setting with my HD-A1.. I deliberately shut off all of my 6 channels and listened only to the bass content of this title. When I switched to PCM, the Bass dropped to around 80 dB( same reference level "0").
> 
> 
> I am using a HDMI cable, no coax or optical cable connected.
> 
> 
> Does this confirm that the AVM50/D2 has the LFE bug?



Do you have bass management turned off in the A1? (no x-overed bass from the other 5 channels) I would do that first to make sure you only get LFE track on the subwoofer input. What type of audio is on the disc?


I forget what the A1 does via HDMI but is the bitstream "raw" or "converted" to DTS?


As mentioned in the "LFE tutorial" that Bob linked, does the D2 have an option to raise/lower (depending on its default) the LFE input by 10db like other processors?


larry


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Last night I used a SPL meter centered at 62 hertz and began playing "Hotel California" from the Eagles HD DVD concert. At its reference level of "0" at the AVM50 processor, the reading was between 89 and 93 dB at the subwoofer output using the bitstream setting with my HD-A1.. I deliberately shut off all of my 6 channels and listened only to the bass content of this title. When I switched to PCM, the Bass dropped to around 80 dB( same reference level "0").



I DOUBT the sound levels on a concert are properly calibrated.


Thanks to FilmMixer - who posts here on AVS and Mixes Sound

for the movies - he provided me with the reference levels they

use for Film.

*reference on a mixing stage is ---

85db for the LCR,

82 for each surround channel

85 for both playing together

91 for the sub, rolled off at 120...

mains and surrounds are flat to 2k

then have a 6db roll off per octave about that

mains are extended down to about 18-16Hz through the subs*


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you have bass management turned off in the A1? (no x-overed bass from the other 5 channels) I would do that first to make sure you only get LFE track on the subwoofer input. What type of audio is on the disc?
> 
> 
> I forget what the A1 does via HDMI but is the bitstream "raw" or "converted" to DTS?
> 
> 
> As mentioned in the "LFE tutorial" that Bob linked, does the D2 have an option to raise/lower (depending on its default) the LFE input by 10db like other processors?
> 
> 
> larry



The Anthems only have the ability to LOWER LFE -- accessible by pressing the Setup/Sub/LFE button twice on the remote. All other bass volume controls in the Anthem alter the entire subwoofer output (LFE plus bass steered to the subwoofer from other channels) so can not be used to address this issue.


That means if the Anthems do not properly boost LFE over HDMI PCM or multi-channel analog then there is no user control to fix it currently available.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Last night I used a SPL meter centered at 62 hertz and began playing "Hotel California" from the Eagles HD DVD concert. At its reference level of "0" at the AVM50 processor, the reading was between 89 and 93 dB at the subwoofer output using the bitstream setting with my HD-A1.. I deliberately shut off all of my 6 channels and listened only to the bass content of this title. When I switched to PCM, the Bass dropped to around 80 dB( same reference level "0").
> 
> 
> I am using a HDMI cable, no coax or optical cable connected.
> 
> 
> Does this confirm that the AVM50/D2 has the LFE bug?



I'm not sure. As Dreamcatcher mentioned, I'm not sure you can assume the over-all level for the two tracks is the same even though you have the Anthem set the same. However, your result is certainly cause for concern.


From all accounts from owners of other devices that have this problem -- there's a whole thread on the firmware fix for this this for Pioneer receivers for example -- the effect of the bug is not subtle.


So I'd suggest the first test is to turn on all speakers and set all settings as you would use them for normal listening -- calibrated for your room -- and then play the HDMI PCM track and the compatibility bitstream track, adjusting Anthem main volume (if necessary) to measure approximately the same overall SPL for both of them, and then see if you can detect a weakness in the bass on the HDMI PCM track by ear alone.


For comparison, you can use the Anthem's own control to lower LFE by 10dB (found by pressing the Setup/Sub/LFE button on the remote TWICE) to see what a 10dB weakness in LFE sounds like.


For example, if you the Anthems *HAVE* the bug, then playing the compatibility bitstream track with this LFE control set to -10.0dB should sound the same as playing the HDMI PCM track with the LFE control left at its default 0.0 setting. If the Anthem's do *NOT* have the bug, then playing the bitstream with LFE at -10.0dB should make the bitstream track sound noticeably weak in bass, and that will give you an idea of what you are listening for when comparing the PCM track to the bitstream track without adding in that control -- i.e., it will show you what a weak LFE track sounds like.


The test should probably be run with bass-effects-rich movie HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs since those probably have more "standardized" levels for the LFE.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here's a post from the Pioneer thread that discusses a way to test this using the Avia calibration standard DVD and a PS3 player connected via HDMI. Other HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players that can decode standard DD 5.1 from standard DVDs and ship PCM over HDMI as the result could also be used.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9866682 


The +10dB boost he's talking about in his Pioneer is a setup feature that adds the LFE boost for the receiver's multi-channel analog input. It does not alter playback of bitstreams such as DD 5.1 (which have the boost built-in already by default). The firmware fix Pioneer is struggling to implement makes this +10dB boost feature *ALSO* alter LFE on HDMI PCM input.


His test is showing that using this newly installed Pioneer firmware, and with the feature turned on, the HDMI PCM and the bitstream playback are identical, as they should be. With the feature turned off, LFE for HDMI PCM is weak compared to bitstream.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Anthems only have the ability to LOWER LFE -- accessible by pressing the Setup/Sub/LFE button twice on the remote. All other bass volume controls in the Anthem alter the entire subwoofer output (LFE plus bass steered to the subwoofer from other channels) so can not be used to address this issue.
> 
> 
> That means if the Anthems do not properly boost LFE over HDMI PCM or multi-channel analog then there is not user control to fix it.
> 
> --Bob



All I can say is in my setup - I think it is all working the way it should.


I calibrated all the surround channels to the proper sound levels using

a digital SPL meter. I did have to lower the LFE channel a bit. Therefore

I assume it was doing the proper boost before I needed to lower it.


I'm running HDMI from the Pioneer BDP-HD1 and Toshiba HD-A1 to

the D2 and the PCM lossless audio is mind bendingly awesome.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All I can say is in my setup - I think it is all working the way it should.
> 
> 
> I calibrated all the surround channels to the proper sound levels using
> 
> a digital SPL meter. I did have to lower the LFE channel a bit. Therefore
> 
> I assume it was doing the proper boost before I needed to lower it.
> 
> 
> I'm running HDMI from the Pioneer BDP-HD1 and Toshiba HD-A1 to
> 
> the D2 and the PCM lossless audio is mind bendingly awesome.



Yes, there are enough critical listeners populating this thread that I'll be amazed if it actually turns out the Anthems have this problem and people simply haven't felt like complaining.


But it does need to be tested.


Perhaps with a few more people trying to test this we can put this one to rest.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, there are enough critical listeners populating this thread that I'll be amazed if it actually turns out the Anthems have this problem and people simply haven't felt like complaining.
> 
> 
> But it does need to be tested.
> 
> 
> Perhaps with a few more people trying to test this we can put this one to rest.
> 
> --Bob



I did not do any SPECIFIC testing when I installed my D2 - but

coming from a Lexicon MC-12b - I would have noticed a LFE

problem IMMEDIATELY - especially since I have 10 channels

of audio amounting to 24,000 watts.


3 of the 10 channels are LFE channels with 21,000 watts to

go all the way down to 1Hz. So if there was a LFE problem I

would have noticed it DAY ONE. I probably would have sent

the D2 back if I had found one


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did not do any SPECIFIC testing when I installed my D2 - but
> 
> coming from a Lexicon MC-12b - I would have noticed a LFE
> 
> problem IMMEDIATELY - especially since I have 10 channels
> 
> of audio amounting to 24,000 watts.
> 
> 
> 3 of the 10 channels are LFE channels with 21,000 watts to
> 
> go all the way down to 1Hz. So if there was a LFE problem I
> 
> would have noticed it DAY ONE. I probably would have sent
> 
> the D2 back if I had found one



Holy mother of POWER Batman!!!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Holy mother of POWER Batman!!!



It takes POWER to move a 12" think FLOOR


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It takes POWER to move a 12" think FLOOR



Did you float the floor then?


Your HT sounds incredible. Any pics?


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, there are enough critical listeners populating this thread that I'll be amazed if it actually turns out the Anthems have this problem and people simply haven't felt like complaining.
> 
> 
> But it does need to be tested.
> 
> 
> Perhaps with a few more people trying to test this we can put this one to rest.
> 
> --Bob



Why doesn't someone just e-mail Nick at Anthem?


As you all know, unlike other manufactures, Anthem has great tech support and they quickly respond to technical questions. I'm sure Nick can say with a simple Yes or No, whether the D2 and/or the AVM 50 has a +10dB boost feature that alters LFE on HDMI PCM input.


I think Bob first posed this question, in this thread, about 3 months ago. It seems strange that there's no definitive answer yet.


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did not do any SPECIFIC testing when I installed my D2 - but
> 
> coming from a Lexicon MC-12b - I would have noticed a LFE
> 
> problem IMMEDIATELY - especially since I have 10 channels
> 
> of audio amounting to 24,000 watts.
> 
> 
> 3 of the 10 channels are LFE channels with 21,000 watts to
> 
> go all the way down to 1Hz. So if there was a LFE problem I
> 
> would have noticed it DAY ONE. I probably would have sent
> 
> the D2 back if I had found one



Hmm...What exactly is your amp and sub set up? 1 Hz........... Useful levels? Flat across the frequency spectrum?


I was under the impression that only the Thigpen Rotary could acheive such results - and only under an optimal installation.


----------



## Jongoldman

I've read through the messages a few times (and the manual), but can't figure out an easy way to zoom the screen so that 2:35 content fills the screen.


I know you can hold on-screen for a few seconds, go to scale, then zoom, then go to 76, but is there a way to save that somewhere so that it is a one-button push or so I can do it on my universal remote quickly?


I'm still on 1.06, I've been afraid to update, should I and to what version?


Comversely, is there a better way to do it? I don't mind losing the sides.


----------



## circumstances

I had been waiting for the hardware upgrade for my AVM 20 to AVM 50 level. Now I've pretty much decided to just sell my AVM 20 and buy a new D2. I have a 70XBR2 and have yet to purchase a blu-ray or hd-dvd player, so I'll see you all in this thread shortly. Looks like I have quite a bit of catching up to do...


----------



## brusteraider

Well I don,t have the same circumstances HeHe! but I sent my D1 in a couple of weeks ago for the upgrade and I have been lurking and drooling through this thread. I really appreciate all the time everyone puts in here educating us rookies and veterans alike on this product. The quick references at the beginning of thread will make it so much easier to set up my D1-HD and I will also see you shortly.


Thanks again Bruce


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jongoldman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've read through the messages a few times (and the manual), but can't figure out an easy way to zoom the screen so that 2:35 content fills the screen.
> 
> 
> I know you can hold on-screen for a few seconds, go to scale, then zoom, then go to 76, but is there a way to save that somewhere so that it is a one-button push or so I can do it on my universal remote quickly?
> 
> 
> I'm still on 1.06, I've been afraid to update, should I and to what version?
> 
> 
> Comversely, is there a better way to do it? I don't mind losing the sides.



See the first post in this thread and follow the links for Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling. A custom crop setting is a better way to do this than the Zoom function you have been using. Among other things, you will get MUCH better image quality if you don't use Zoom.


You can do Custom Cropping with your V1.06 software. There is also a shortcut under the Mode key on the remote which will let you activate and de-activate your pre-established Custom Crop setting.


The V1.10 or higher software makes this even easier in that it adds overlayed inputs (e.g., DVD1, DVD2, DVD3, DVD4). You can establish a Custom Crop as the default setting for some overlayed input that is otherwise identical to what you use for normal TV or DVD viewing. Then just switch to that overlayed input when you want to engage the Custom crop.

--Bob


----------



## drsimnal

Hey guys! I have a 5.1 system currently running a Denon 2803 AVR (as a "pre" with power amp for speakers) for about 3 years. I've become increasingly anxious to upgrade the Denon and in months past had even thought about going to an external video processor to get the very best picture and to use as an HDMI switch. It seems like the Anthem D2 may be the best of all worlds, especially with it's upgradability. I found the closest dealer (over an hour away and in another state!) and just haven't been able to make it over there yet. However, in all the extra reading I've been doing there was mention (I think in the Sound and Vision review) that a professional installer should do the setup and that most people buying the D2 would not do it themselves.










So my question is, is the setup really that hard, and would I be out of my league? I'm an intelligent person but not nearly at the level of a professional by any means. Since the closest dealer is so far away, I likely will be on my own (although would lean on all of you heavily). I just want to make sure this is not a waste of my time before driving to Illinois. I'm in healthcare, with no electronics background but can set up an AVR/speakers and even programmed my Harmony 880 without too much cursing.










Thanks, Andrea


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmm...What exactly is your amp and sub set up? 1 Hz........... Useful levels? Flat across the frequency spectrum?
> 
> 
> I was under the impression that only the Thigpen Rotary could acheive such results - and only under an optimal installation.



I was wondering how long it would take Jeff to come around after people were mentioning sub sonic bass.










larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Andrea,

It is most definitely not too hard for an owner to do his own setup and get very pleasing results.


See the first post in this thread for some setup related links. In particular the links on How to Get the Most from Your Video Setup are the sort of thing you are looking for.


I would suggest you get a calibration DVD. Avia and Digital Video Essentials (DVE) are the most popular. They are inexpensive so you might want to get both as each has a few things it does better than the other. They take some time to get used to, so you might want to begin trying things with your current setup.


You should also go to Radio Shack and get a Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter. The one they sell is the one everyone uses and it is inexpensive. It is the single most important investment you can make in setting up your audio correctly.


---------------------------------------------------


Doing this sort of thing is not all that tough, but it can be confusing when you are getting started and it does take some time.


If you are going to do it yourself it is best to think of it as something that evolves over time. As you get more familiar with what's involved, and start to develop a more critical eye and ear, you will find that going through the process again yields better and better results.


The point is to not get too frustrated trying to reach perfection out of the gate. And feel free to experiment by making small adjustments to settings to learn how they work.


--------------------------------------------------


Now understand, if you hire a competent professional -- an ISF technician -- he will bring signal generators and light measurement tools that you will likely not have. More important, he'll bring a solid understanding of how all this stuff works and what sort of compromises work best.


For example, you will be able to set basic levels for proper blacks and whites quite well yourself. And with a good display the results will be very very good indeed. But the ISF tech will measure the entire range of the gray ramp and will be able to make fine adjustments for any special difficulties your display might present. Gamma corrrection adjustments, for example, are not something you should undertake lightly.


If you like to tinker, and you enjoy the satisfaction of seeing and hearing improvements that arise from your own efforts, then I think it is well worthwhile to do it yourself even if you ARE going to hire a professional. For one thing, it will help you understand better what he's doing and what its worth.

--Bob


----------



## drsimnal

Thanks Bob! I actually do have AVIA and an SPL meter that I bought when I first put together my system 3 years ago. If not for this forum, I'd never have achieved (or even thought about) a fp system w/HD, etc. Thanks for the advice, guess I'll try to get over to Ill. sometime.

andrea


----------



## mathis08




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't KNOW BOB - I spent Hours and Hours
> 
> TESTING and Tweaking to come up with these
> 
> TRICK settings. I'm not sure I should
> 
> share them in an OPEN FORUM [GRIN]!
> 
> 
> 1) I clicked on Advanced Video Settings
> 
> 
> 2) I clicked on Custom Output Resolution.
> 
> 
> 3) I clicked on LOAD Standard
> 
> 
> 4) Scrolled down to SELECT 1080p48
> 
> 
> 5) Clicked on Advanced Video Settings
> 
> 
> 6) Checked the Box for Custom Output Resolution
> 
> 
> 7) Click on the UPLOAD button.
> 
> 
> 8) Now go into the Video out MENU in the D2 - Menu # 8 and SELECT CUSTOM.
> 
> 
> ALL DONE - NOW you have my Settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



hello drhankz,



I did finally receive my Anthem D2 with Toshiba XE1,and i have already the Sony Ruby, i would like to know how to reach the slim "Live video sitting editor " in Anthem D2, for an use in 1980x1080 p 48 hz how to configure the anthem, i did browse all menus and don't I find the means to reach there, does have you there him a hidden menu, or is necessary him to activate some options to arrive there?


In any case a retailed explanation would help myself a lot,

Thank you for your advice


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drsimnal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys! I have a 5.1 system currently running a Denon 2803 AVR (as a "pre" with power amp for speakers) for about 3 years. I've become increasingly anxious to upgrade the Denon and in months past had even thought about going to an external video processor to get the very best picture and to use as an HDMI switch. It seems like the Anthem D2 may be the best of all worlds, especially with it's upgradability.
> 
> 
> So my question is, is the setup really that hard, and would I be out of my league? I'm an intelligent person but not nearly at the level of a professional by any means. Since the closest dealer is so far away, I likely will be on my own (although would lean on all of you heavily). I just want to make sure this is not a waste of my time before driving to Illinois. I'm in healthcare, with no electronics background but can set up an AVR/speakers and even programmed my Harmony 880 without too much cursing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Andrea


*Andrea* - I had a high-end Denon with HDMI switching before I bought the D2.


If you were able to setup the Denon - you will be more than happy with the

D2. As compared in difficulty - If 10 is the MOST DIFFICULT and 1 is the least

difficult - I would rank Denon as a 10 and the D2 as a 2.


Now when it comes to *SOUND QUALITY* and *Picture Quality* - I would rank the

D2 as a *10* and the Denon as a 2.


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did not do any SPECIFIC testing when I installed my D2 - but
> 
> coming from a Lexicon MC-12b - I would have noticed a LFE
> 
> problem IMMEDIATELY - especially since I have 10 channels
> 
> of audio amounting to 24,000 watts.
> 
> 
> 3 of the 10 channels are LFE channels with 21,000 watts to
> 
> go all the way down to 1Hz. So if there was a LFE problem I
> 
> would have noticed it DAY ONE. I probably would have sent
> 
> the D2 back if I had found one



Hank,


Perhaps you missed my qestion above











What exactly is your amp and sub set up? 1 Hz........... Useful levels? Flat across the frequency spectrum?


I was under the impression that only the Thigpen Rotary could acheive such results - and only under an optimal installation.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mathis08* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> hello drhankz,
> 
> 
> 
> I did finally receive my Anthem D2 with Toshiba XE1,and i have already the Sony Ruby, i would like to know how to reach the slim "Live video sitting editor " in Anthem D2, for an use in 1980x1080 p 48 hz how to configure the anthem, i did browse all menus and don't I find the means to reach there, does have you there him a hidden menu, or is necessary him to activate some options to arrive there?
> 
> 
> In any case a retailed explanation would help myself a lot,
> 
> Thank you for your advice




I'm not sure I understand what you are looking for. You had posted my instructions

in your original posting.


Since you have an XE1 - I assume you are somewhere that uses 50Hz power

and not 60Hz power.


Regardless of the power source - the Ruby will only take 48Hz on the DVI input

not the HDMI input. The quality of the DVI input is not as good as the HDMI. My

suggestion is use the D2 to output 1080p/60 or 1080p/50 depending on your

power source.


One of the other posters here on AVS has posted some custom settings for the

Pearl. They should also work with the Ruby. Again the problem is the DVI input

is just not as good as HDMI. You might eliminate judder at 48Hz - but I can't

watch 48Hz because the PQ is so much better at 1080p/60.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hank,
> 
> 
> Perhaps you missed my qestion above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What exactly is your amp and sub set up? 1 Hz........... Useful levels? Flat across the frequency spectrum?
> 
> 
> I was under the impression that only the Thigpen Rotary could acheive such results - and only under an optimal installation.



I didn't think the original question I was answering was from you.


The Original question was does the D2 automatically boost the LFE

channel by +10db?


My response was - I ASSUME SO - because I have to turn the LFE

output down to get everything balanced properly.


As for the New Questions - Useful Levels? Flat??


I break down the LFE channel out of the D2 into 3 more LFE

channels via RANE splitters and amplifiers.

CH 1) 100Hz-16Hz

CH 2) 20Hz-8Hz

CH 3) 20Hz-2Hz


I have no idea if it is flat. As for levels - I first set them channel by channel

to all be equal. Then I fine tune them by either ear or BUTT







until I get

them where I like them. In those ranges it is all about the feel. Moving a

floor or chair is about feel.


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I didn't think the original question I was answering was from you.
> 
> 
> The Original question was does the D2 automatically boost the LFE
> 
> channel by +10db?
> 
> 
> My response was - I ASSUME SO - because I have to turn the LFE
> 
> output down to get everything balanced properly.
> 
> 
> As for the New Questions - Useful Levels? Flat??
> 
> 
> I break down the LFE channel out of the D2 into 3 more LFE
> 
> channels via RANE splitters and amplifiers.
> 
> CH 1) 100Hz-16Hz
> 
> CH 2) 20Hz-8Hz
> 
> CH 3) 20Hz-2Hz
> 
> 
> I have no idea if it is flat. As for levels - I first set them channel by channel
> 
> to all be equal. Then I fine tune them by either ear or BUTT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> until I get
> 
> them where I like them. In those ranges it is all about the feel. Moving a
> 
> floor or chair is about feel.



Gotcha.


Exactly what subs are you using and what 21000W amps (or combination thereof for your subwoofers)?


Likely what is happening in your needing to turn the LFE down to properly calibrate is that you have a hump in the freq response that needs attenuating. It is likely NOT a function of too much sub output (but a room mode). For example in my own room, I have a large hump at 35 Hz that needed significant EQ to lower it (@ 7 - 10 db)! Lowering the OVERALL LFE level would lower it but at the expense of everything else in the freq range. You've got a decent parametric EQ. You might want to get a guy out with a RTA (real time analyzer) as you are likely lowering other important frequencies as well as you get things to 'feel' or sound right. Moreover, an RTA analysis will allow you to objectively check the D2's LFE output level (rather than an assumption). An RTA will allow the calibrator to analyze each frequency individually, adjust each freq up or down via your Rane and THEN adjust things to your ear (or butt).










You might be surprised by what you are missing. Moreover, you will get a better bass response by combining all three subs with one EQ rather than separating them with 3 different freq responses. You will increase your headroom, output and useable bass at the lowest frequencies as well as overall dynamic range.


As you know, I am a bass head and if I see anything on line that eclipses what I own and gets into the single digits freq response, I like to know what I may be missing.


Playing down to 2 Hz at useable levels is practically impossible for a typical paper driver designed sub. The Thigpen can do it (for $18K plus a significant installation cost).


So, what are you using in terms of subwwoofers and amplifiers (brands)? I am familiar with the Rane EQs. At one time I owned a pair of THX-44's and a PE-17.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mathis08* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> hello drhankz,
> 
> 
> 
> I did finally receive my Anthem D2 with Toshiba XE1,and i have already the Sony Ruby, i would like to know how to reach the slim "Live video sitting editor " in Anthem D2, for an use in 1980x1080 p 48 hz how to configure the anthem, i did browse all menus and don't I find the means to reach there, does have you there him a hidden menu, or is necessary him to activate some options to arrive there?
> 
> 
> In any case a retailed explanation would help myself a lot,
> 
> Thank you for your advice



The menu DRHANKZ was using to do this is not in the menus of the D2 itself. It is in a separate computer program from Anthem. Live Video Settings Editor is a computer program that runs on a Windows PC and allows you to control video settings in the D2 "on the fly" (i.e., while watching programs) via a serial cable between the computer and the D2.


It is one of three programs that are included in the install kit for new firmware available for download from the Anthem web site. The other two are Setup Editor which can be used to save Setup menu configurations to a PC file or to reload them to the D2 and, of course, the installer for that version of the firmware itself.


The latest version of the D2 software available for public download is V1.11. The install package can be found on the Anthem site here:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


Just download the Zip file from that page to a Windows PC and use one of the suggested, free Zip-file programs to unzip it. You will find Live Video Settings Editor in the folder that you end up with.


Live Video Settings editor offers access to a number of more complex D2 video settings features than are found in the D2's own menus. The one DRHANKZ was using -- to select a specific, pre-defined video output setting for his Ruby -- is probably the simplest. But you can do more complex stuff stuff like defining your own, unique custom video timings, or custom gamma correction curves as well.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

I sold my AVM30 yesterday, called the dealer, said was on the way to pick up the AVM50. He said they are on back order! "Darn"


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I sold my AVM30 yesterday, called the dealer, said was on the way to pick up the AVM50. He said they are on back order! "Darn"



Oh the an-tic-i-----pation! (grin!)

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

I found it.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What does the D2 offer that the AVM50 doesn't?
> 
> 
> Where could I find a comparision?
> 
> 
> Michael



The D2 has the same video solution as the AVM-50.


The D2 has a more "exotic" audio solution, a better power supply, a very few specific additional features currently included, and spare DSP processing power that is expected to be used in a sophisticated Room EQ feature upgrade sometime later this year.


The audio section of the D2 is a D1, and the audio of an AVM-50 is an AVM-30. So the audio of the D2 compares to the AVM-50 the same way a D1 compares to your prior AVM-30.


Here's Anthem's comparison chart listing the few feature differences I mentioned above:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...CompChart.html 


--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

Thanks Bob, I found that.


I am trying to figure if the D2 is worth the increase over the AVM50.


Michael


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gotcha.
> 
> 
> Exactly what subs are you using and what 21000W amps (or combination thereof for your subwoofers)?



I would not call them Subwoofers. I think of Subwoofers as something

that MOVES AIR.


These Move Physical Mass - like a hydraulic cylinder










As for Amplifiers - for LFE - I use Carver-Pro PT2400. 2400 watts into 8 ohms

and 3000 watts into 4 ohms. I use (4) PT2400's to drive each of the 4 banks

of sonic actuators. Remember Jeff - they do not produce SOUND - they produce

movement. Who makes them? We all have to have some secrets


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would not call them Subwoofers. I think of Subwoofers as something
> 
> that MOVES AIR.
> 
> 
> These Move Physical Mass - like a hydraulic cylinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for Amplifiers - for LFE - I use Carver-Pro PT2400. 2400 watts into 8 ohms
> 
> and 3000 watts into 4 ohms. I use (4) PT2400's to drive each of the 4 banks
> 
> of sonic actuators. Remember Jeff - they do not produce SOUND - they produce
> 
> movement. Who makes them? We all have to have some secrets



Buttkickers, eh?


I like 'em. I use them in my theater. I guess it would explain the frq responses in your Ranes........


That said, air movement in a sealed room at low frequencies in combination with Buttkickers and the likes is quite an experience!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would not call them Subwoofers. I think of Subwoofers as something
> 
> that MOVES AIR.
> 
> 
> These Move Physical Mass - like a hydraulic cylinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for Amplifiers - for LFE - I use Carver-Pro PT2400. 2400 watts into 8 ohms
> 
> and 3000 watts into 4 ohms. I use (4) PT2400's to drive each of the 4 banks
> 
> of sonic actuators. Remember Jeff - they do not produce SOUND - they produce
> 
> movement. Who makes them? We all have to have some secrets



The truth can be told! DRHANKZ has his home theater built inside his low rider car!

(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I found that.
> 
> 
> I am trying to figure if the D2 is worth the increase over the AVM50.
> 
> 
> Michael



It's a tough call. Whether you will hear better audio with the D2 is tied up with the quality of the rest of your audio gear and the nature of your listening room. No one really knows yet how much value the long awaited Room EQ feature will provide.


Personally I went with the D2. I didn't think of it as extra money spent. More as money saved compared to a Lexicon MC12-HD plus Crystalio combo. (grin!)

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I like 'em. I use them in my theater.



I didn't include in my last description the amplifiers I use

for the traditional subwooffers that operate 100Hz-16Hz.

I have a pair of CROWN Amplifiers for that - MA-5002VZ

5000 watts each into 4 ohms.

*Yes Bob is right* - my theater is built into a low rider. The

car jumps up and down like a low rider should.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Personally I went with the D2. I didn't think of it as extra money spent. More as money saved compared to a Lexicon MC12-HD plus Crystalio combo. (grin!)
> 
> --Bob



Even WITHOUT the external VP - the D2 is 1/2 the price of the MC-12HD

and the MC-12HD WILL NOT and CAN NOT do 1080p - only 1080i. How

LAME is that?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mathis08* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did finally receive my Anthem D2 with Toshiba XE1,and i have already the Sony Ruby, i would like to know how to reach the slim "Live video sitting editor " in Anthem D2, for an use in 1980x1080 p 48 hz how to configure the anthem, i did browse all menus and don't I find the means to reach there, does have you there him a hidden menu, or is necessary him to activate some options to arrive there?



Are you trying the Live Video editor with a live RS-232C connection between a computer & the Anthem (Live Video Editor program downloadable from Anthem site, still quirky in some areas but improving) or do you mean holding down the 7 key to do on the fly adjustments?


EDIT: Damn anti-Firefox Forum. Doesn't auto-reload correctly & the silly c11.statcounter site slows everything down even if it did. grumble, grumble...







Good to see you back Bob, was getting nervous with your more than 15 minute absence, but as you can see Hank kept us entertained with a vaudeville show in the interim


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Ok, sorry to raise this issue/question again, but it keeps coming up so here goes:


I see posts in this and other forums where people indicate that internal decoding of the new HD audio formats (for HD-DVD and Blu-ray) will not be necessary in the future because the audio will be passed via HDMI to the PROCESSOR and the new processors will then decode the various formats (DTS Master Audio, True HD, etc).


As I understand it, if the disc is authored in "advanced" mode (and virtually all of them are) the HD disc player MUST decode the audio internally before sending it to the processor.


I guess my question is this: (put aside the issue of whether or not the audio codec must be encoded internally for now), assuming that in the future the audio can be passed to the processor for decoding, would decoding of the new audio formats be something that Anthem could add via firmware upgrade, or would there be hardware issues involved??


----------



## mathis08




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The menu DRHANKZ was using to do this is not in the menus of the D2 itself. It is in a separate computer program from Anthem. Live Video Settings Editor is a computer program that runs on a Windows PC and allows you to control video settings in the D2 "on the fly" (i.e., while watching programs) via a serial cable between the computer and the D2.
> 
> 
> It is one of three programs that are included in the install kit for new firmware available for download from the Anthem web site. The other two are Setup Editor which can be used to save Setup menu configurations to a PC file or to reload them to the D2 and, of course, the installer for that version of the firmware itself.
> 
> 
> The latest version of the D2 software available for public download is V1.11. The install package can be found on the Anthem site here:
> 
> 
> Just download the Zip file from that page to a Windows PC and use one of the suggested, free Zip-file programs to unzip it. You will find Live Video Settings Editor in the folder that you end up with.
> 
> 
> Live Video Settings editor offers access to a number of more complex D2 video settings features than are found in the D2's own menus. The one DRHANKZ was using -- to select a specific, pre-defined video output setting for his Ruby -- is probably the simplest. But you can do more complex stuff stuff like defining your own, unique custom video timings, or custom gamma correction curves as well.
> 
> --Bob



Many thanks Bob, rudolpht


i will go try it, you are the best


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, sorry to raise this issue/question again, but it keeps coming up so here goes:
> 
> 
> I see posts in this and other forums where people indicate that internal decoding of the new HD audio formats (for HD-DVD and Blu-ray) will not be necessary in the future because the audio will be passed via HDMI to the PROCESSOR and the new processors will then decode the various formats (DTS Master Audio, True HD, etc).
> 
> 
> As I understand it, if the disc is authored in "advanced" mode (and virtually all of them are) the HD disc player MUST decode the audio internally before sending it to the processor.
> 
> 
> I guess my question is this: (put aside the issue of whether or not the audio codec must be encoded internally for now), assuming that in the future the audio can be passed to the processor for decoding, would decoding of the new audio formats be something that Anthem could add via firmware upgrade, or would there be hardware issues involved??



Rob, there is no way to get TrueHD or DTS-HD MA bitstreams into the D2 or the AVM-50 via software upgrade alone. The Anthems are HDMI V1.1 devices and changing to HDMI V1.3 would require a hardware change. At the very least new HDMI driver chips would be required.


The Anthems, at least the D2, most likely have the software processing power to do this job, but you can't get the data into the Anthem in the first place.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob, there is no way to get TrueHD or DTS-HD MA bitstreams into the D2 or the AVM-50 via software upgrade alone. The Anthems are HDMI V1.1 devices and changing to HDMI V1.3 would require a hardware change. At the very least new HDMI driver chips would be required.
> 
> 
> The Anthems, at least the D2, most likely have the software processing power to do this job, but you can't get the data into the Anthem in the first place.
> 
> --Bob



That makes perfect sense Bob. I should have realized this if I had thought it through!


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Guys,


Rob's question and comments made me think about this stuff more and re-assess my own assumptions about the D2 and future purchases of something like the Pio BluRay player or the like. For what it's worth, I paid a visit to the DTS website, as I remembered they have excellent descriptions of what their DTS encodings require, including the latest DTS-HD Master Audio, which is the one I'm watching most closely. I have a ton of respect for the DTS "sound", having enjoyed tons of their Surround Music DTS CD's, never mind their excellent movie mixes.


So, for what it's worth, in case I'm not the only one who gets a little confused about this stuff from time to time, here's a good description of what the D2 as it exists today can and will do for us when paired with a BluRay or HD-DVD player that has a DTS-HD Master Audio decoding chip.

http://www.dts.com/dts-hd/dtshd-mast...g-receiver.php 


I encourage people to surf around DTS for their other explanations, I find them VERY helpful at times, as I plot the next incarnation of "The Plan" 


Cheers guys, thanks for making my days just a little more intriguing, I learn alot here from you all.


-Brian


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Thanks Brian.


Here is the key statement from the DTS site that you link to, and it is the very first paragraph:



> Quote:
> You can enjoy DTS-HD Master Audio and DTS-HD High Resolution Audio if you have a new Blu-ray Disc or HD-DVD player with a DTS-HD Audio decoder built into the player. The audio will be decoded inside the player and passed to the receiver in two different ways...



This applies to HDMI 1.1 or 1.2 receivers/processors, and is consistent with what Bob and others have said regarding these formats needing to be decoded by the PLAYER.


The problem, of course, is that there are NO players that I am aware of that will internally decode DTS-HD Master Audio. The Toshiba's will decode Dolby True HD though, and I ASSUME that can be passed to the D2 via HDMI 1.1 (instead of analog outputs) but I would really like confirmation on that too.


I heard the Panasonic BD player is supposed to receive a FW upgrade to do processing of some (all?) of the new audio codecs, but I don't believe this has happened yet.


Once we actually have BD players that WILL decode these audio formats internally, I would feel much more comfortable/confident in purchasing the AVM-50 or D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

Nobody decodes DTS-HD MA yet because the certification process with DTS is not quite settled yet. Once these guys get their act together you can bet that players with DTS-HD MA decoding will start popping up.


Whether current players will be upgraded is another story. The manufacturers would love to see early buyers toss their early purchases and buy new players, but the backlash may force them to upgrade at least their most recently released players.


The Toshiba players can indeed send the PCM that results from decoding TrueHD over HDMI to the Anthems. Many people are using them just that way today.


Also note that some Blu-Ray titles come with high bandwidth PCM tracks. These can best be thought of as "pre-decoded" TrueHD or DTS-HD MA. Blu-Ray players can send such tracks over HDMI to the Anthems today.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> Nobody decodes DTS-HD MA yet because the certification process with DTS is not quite settled yet. Once these guys get their act together you can bet that players with DTS-HD MA decoding will start popping up.



I can't believe that it is taking them this long to get their act together. The 2nd gen BD players are going to be released shortly (Sony) and it will not decode the new formats (apparently) either. Ridiculous.



> Quote:
> Whether current players will be upgraded is another story. The manufacturers would love to see early buyers toss their early purchases and buy new players, but the backlash may force them to upgrade at least their most recently released players.



This has been my biggest complaint re the new HD formats from the very beginning. It really seems these players were not ready for release as all the audio specs were not finalized and therefore not even included in these players. Bob, as you know, I am a big fan of the Pioneer Elite players. But even the Pio Elite BD player does not currently decode any of the new audio formats, and there is absolutely no indication from Pioneer that this will be added via firmware. Amazing.



> Quote:
> The Toshiba players can indeed send the PCM that results from decoding TrueHD over HDMI to the Anthems. Many people are using them just that way today.



That's what I thought, and I appreciate the confirmation. So we at least have this confirmed ability with the Toshiba (I have the A1 with FW 2.0, so I should be set).



> Quote:
> Also note that some Blu-Ray titles come with high bandwidth PCM tracks. These can best be thought of as "pre-decoded" TrueHD or DTS-HD MA. Blu-Ray players can send such tracks over HDMI to the Anthems today.
> 
> --Bob



Very good point, and I have seen others discuss this as well. It seems that many Blu-ray discs get better sound quality ratings than the HD-DVD counterpart because of the PCM tracks in the BD release. However, I would guess that inclusion of the high bandwidth PCM tracks will diminish in the future in order to provide more space for the video, extra features, etc, assuming they start providing the ability to decode the DTS-HD, Master Audio, etc since these will presumably provide lossless quality despite being "compressed".


It appears that the best choice for a BD player, in terms of the current status of audio codecs, is just to stay with the PS3 (for now)....until a player is released (or gets a FW upgrade) that will process these codecs.


----------



## obie_fl

I'm sorry to report that I am convinced the D2 (running 1.10) most definitely does have the LFE bug.










I used the LFE only sweep on the Avia disk.

Oppo 970 set to output DD via HDMI and checked levels.

Set Oppo to PCM via HDMI, levels were now almost exactly 10db lower.

I did not touch the master or any other volume controls.

Since it is an LFE sweep no bass management or other channels come into play.

I verified the input on the Anthem to make sure the Oppo actually switched from DD to PCM.


Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but unless someone can fault my methodology it looks like we have a bug.


----------



## obie_fl

The more I think about the LFE issue the more confused I become. Since the Anthem does allow you to adjust the Sub level independently from the LFE is this really a bug??? I guess there is no way to adjust the LFE up only cut so you are stuck. What happens when you play a Blu-ray with PCM tracks are they also mixed 10db down or is it a DD only thing? Confusing to say the least.


The number one thing I've always wanted on the Anthem is separate channels for the LFE and redirected bass, maybe the D3.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm sorry to report that I am convinced the D2 (running 1.10) most definitely does have the LFE bug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the LFE only sweep on the Avia disk.
> 
> Oppo 970 set to output DD via HDMI and checked levels.
> 
> Set Oppo to PCM via HDMI, levels were now almost exactly 10db lower.
> 
> I did not touch the master or any other volume controls.
> 
> Since it is an LFE sweep no bass management or other channels come into play.
> 
> I verified the input on the Anthem to make sure the Oppo actually switched from DD to PCM.
> 
> 
> Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but unless someone can fault my methodology it looks like we have a bug.



Tom,

Yes, that certainly sounds like the D2 has the bug.


Raising subwoofer level -- either in the speaker level calibration settings or using the temporary setting under the Setup/Sub/LFE key on the remote is not a fix as this will also -- incorrectly -- alter the level of bass steered to the sub from the mains.


The temporary LFE control found by a second press of that button on the remote only offers a reduction of LFE -- no boost. So there's no fix from that either.


I can't understand how we've gotten this far without people jumping on this problem, since it is such a high priority problem in the HD-DVD and Blu-Ray world right now.


One thing to check, however: I believe the Oppo has its own speaker managment controls that just might alter PCM output (even though they shouldn't). Please check that you don't have a setting in the Oppo that might be causing this. It's unlikely you'd have such a setting right at the magic -10dB, but just to be sure.


Tom, are you going to forward your result to Anthem?


=======================================


Folks, we need to get a few other people checking this. HD-DVD and Blu-Ray playback should also be exhibiting this. The good news is that there is probably an easy fix here once the right info gets sent to Anthem.


=======================================


DD and DTS decoding and analog conversion systems also boost LFE by 10dB. This happens automatically, and since it is such a commodity technology everyone gets it right. In fact this is why you are seeing the difference. The DD side of things is being handled correctly in the Anthem when it receives the bitstream from the Oppo. The HDMI PCM is *NOT* being handled correctly.


So the only potential problems here are LFE coming in via multi-channel analog connections or via HDMI PCM connections.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The problem, of course, is that there are NO players that I am aware of that will internally decode DTS-HD Master Audio. The Toshiba's will decode Dolby True HD though, and I ASSUME that can be passed to the D2 via HDMI 1.1 (instead of analog outputs) but I would really like confirmation on that too.
> 
> 
> I heard the Panasonic BD player is supposed to receive a FW upgrade to do processing of some (all?) of the new audio codecs, but I don't believe this has happened yet.
> 
> 
> Once we actually have BD players that WILL decode these audio formats internally, I would feel much more comfortable/confident in purchasing the AVM-50 or D2.



Rob, don't want to restate things that Bob said, but I might











The PS3 does do True HD through HDMI, and I am using my XA2 to pass decoded Dolby True HD through...


I would only imagine that Pansonic will follow through on their end, as it was stated inside the box via a mail in card that there will be a firmware upgrade for their player, and I think that it's months away (by June I think).


One point that never gets mentioned here is that although 1.3 will pass bitstreams in some instances, I think all 1.3 players will also decode internally just like most every DVD player today does.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob, don't want to restate things that Bob said, but I might
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The PS3 does do True HD through HDMI, and I am using my XA2 to pass decoded Dolby True HD through...
> 
> 
> I would only imagine that Pansonic will follow through on their end, as it was stated inside the box via a mail in card that there will be a firmware upgrade for their player, and I think that it's months away (by June I think).
> 
> 
> One point that never gets mentioned here is that although 1.3 will pass bitstreams in some instances, I think all 1.3 players will also decode internally just like most every DVD player today does.



Thanks Marc, I forgot the PS3 does TrueHD (are there any BD discs that have TrueHD though?).


In some ways I think I am over analyzing this. On the other hand, there is so much to consider! I have the JVC RS1 on order. The RS1 has the Gennum chip, and will accept a 1080p24 signal (and display it at 72 I believe). So, not only do I have the audio questions/concerns, but I must also evaluate whether or not I really need the excellent video processing that the D2 provides. Theoretically (and this is the key term here), I should get similar results using the Gennum in the RS1. For SD DVD, I can send a 480i signal directly to the RS1 (actually there are already initial reports about the RS1 not properly handling the 480i signal, but they are supposedly working on a fix via FW- so the word "theoretically" is alread coming into play) and have the Gennum do the deinterlacing and scaling, just as it would if sending to a D2.


Similarly, if I can send the RS1 a 1080p24 signal, there would be no need for processing in the D2 and you would just pass it through.


So the biggest reason to upgrade would probably be for the sound formats (HDMI connectivity that my Parasound Halo C2 lacks). But even then, I could probably use analog connections to connect the Parasound and still get new audio formats (using a player that has the analog connections will limit my choices even further though), but I would prefer to use HDMI to keep things digital.


I think I just need to wait until my RS1 arrives and re-evaluate things after that.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tom,
> 
> One thing to check, however: I believe the Oppo has its own speaker managment controls that just might alter PCM output (even though they shouldn't). Please check that you don't have a setting in the Oppo that might be causing this. It's unlikely you'd have such a setting right at the magic -10dB, but just to be sure.
> 
> 
> Tom, are you going to forward your result to Anthem?
> 
> 
> =======================================
> 
> 
> Folks, we need to get a few other people checking this. HD-DVD and Blu-Ray playback should also be exhibiting this. The good news is that there is probably an easy fix here once the right info gets sent to Anthem.
> 
> 
> =======================================
> 
> 
> DD and DTS decoding and analog conversion systems also boost LFE by 10dB. This happens automatically, and since it is such a commodity technology everyone gets it right. In fact this is why you are seeing the difference. The DD side of things is being handled correctly in the Anthem when it receives the bitstream from the Oppo. The HDMI PCM is *NOT* being handled correctly.
> 
> 
> So the only potential problems here are LFE coming in via multi-channel analog connections or via HDMI PCM connections.
> 
> --Bob



All the BM and levels in the Oppo are off. I need to play around with my A1 and PS3 and make sure they exhibit the issue also. It would be easy enough to work around it if Anthem offered a LFE boost in addition to the cut. I can almost see why you wouldn't automatically boost analog and HDMI PCM. My question is why don't the players boost the LFE since they are doing the decoding?


I'd also like to know if the PCM tracks on blu-ray disks need to be boosted. Is the LFE on those tracks 10db down too? I've noticed a lot of my HD DVDs were kind of lacking but I always just boosted the sub. My mains are crossed at 40hz so I guess it is not too bad boosting the redirected bass.


I'll try to write something up for Nick and see what Anthem has to say.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All the BM and levels in the Oppo are off.



Check out the LFE sticky in the Audio Theory, Setup Forum. Note at the very bottom of Post #1 this comment ref the Oppo 970:


Other odd player behaviour


* Oppo 970HD: Can bass manage and level adjust HDMI output; unfortunately this means LFE is 15dB low to make room, even with bass management off.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post8855640 


Maybe its the Oppo's problem and not the D2. Not really sure what to read into the comment in that thread.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Check out the LFE sticky in the Audio Theory, Setup Forum. Note at the very bottom of Post #1 this comment ref the Oppo 970:
> 
> 
> Other odd player behaviour
> 
> 
> * Oppo 970HD: Can bass manage and level adjust HDMI output; unfortunately this means LFE is 15dB low to make room, even with bass management off.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post8855640
> 
> 
> Maybe its the Oppo's problem and not the D2. Not really sure what to read into the comment in that thread.



The player can't do the boost because part of the idea is to keep the loudest LFE from clipping during the transmission of the PCM to the Anthem. I.e., you don't want to clip the PCM signal itself.


The 15dB boost is needed when bass management happens inside the player -- as is commonly the case with multi-channel analog connections to receivers that can't, themselves, do bass management on that specific type of input connection.


As the cited thread describes, LFE is artificially lowered an ADDITIONAL 5dB in the player before bass is steered into the LFE channel from the main channels. This means the combo of the loudest LFE plus the loudest steered bass is still unlikely to clip.


It would make no sense for the Oppo to do this on its HDMI PCM outputs since it should be assuming that bass steering will actually happen in the receiver instead of in the Oppo.


The ideal solution is for the AVR (the Anthem in our case) to offer the choice of 0dB, 5dB, 10dB and 15dB boost of LFE input only -- setable separately for the multi-channel analog input and for the HDMI PCM input for each HDMI source. The default, however, should be 10dB boost in both cases. In no case should this boost control affect bitstreams that might come in over HDMI or over the optical/coax digital audio connections.


Since the default should be 10dB boost, the LFE control might best be presented as -10dB, -5dB, 0dB, and +5dB -- where the default 10dB is assumed and these are variations from that.

--Bob


----------



## matthewD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The player can't do the boost because part of the idea is to keep the loudest LFE from clipping during the transmission of the PCM to the Anthem. I.e., you don't want to clip the PCM signal itself.--Bob




Can you explain more about a PCM signal clipping? I am totally lost on that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matthewD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you explain more about a PCM signal clipping? I am totally lost on that.



This is covered in the sticky thread in the audio theory forum here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=748147 


Any audio connection will have only so much dynamic range before it can no longer faithfully carry the signal.


The LFE channel is specifically intended to carry *LOUD* bass -- explosions and such. The problem with carrying such loud signals is that they may exceed the dynamic range of the storage format, the transmission format between devices, or the processing inside a device. To make sure LFE doesn't go beyond what can be handled it is deliberately recorded 10dB low. It is supposed to be maintained at that level as long as possible. But before it is mixed with bass from other channels, and before it is converted to send out to the speakers, it has to be boosted back up again to maintain the intended audio mix.


If you boost it in the player, then you have the potential that you will exceed the dynamic range of the transmission to the AVR or processing in the AVR. That's why it is supposed to be boosted in the AVR.


But if you do audio mixing in the player then you have to account for the different levels of bass from the mains and from the LFE, and you have to account for the possiblity that the sum of the loudest LFE and the loudest bass from the mains might clip.


The math for how this is handled is described in the cited thread.

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Marc, I forgot the PS3 does TrueHD (are there any BD discs that have TrueHD though?).
> 
> 
> In some ways I think I am over analyzing this. On the other hand, there is so much to consider! I have the JVC RS-1 on order. The RS1 has the Gennum chip, and will accept a 1080p24 signal (and display it at 72 I believe). So, not only do I have the audio questions/concerns, but I must also evaluate whether or not I really need the excellent video processing that the D2 provides. Theoretically (and this is the key term here), I should get similar results using the Gennum in the RS1. For SD DVD, I can send a 480i signal directly to the RS1 (actually there are already initial reports about the RS1 not properly handling the 480i signal, but they are supposedly working on a fix via FW- so the word "theoretically" is alread coming into play) and have the Gennum do the deinterlacing and scaling, just as it would if sending to a D2.
> 
> 
> Similarly, if I can send the RS1 a 1080p24 signal, there would be no need for processing in the D2 and you would just pass it through.
> 
> 
> So the biggest reason to upgrade would probably be for the sound formats (HDMI connectivity that my Parasound Halo C2 lacks). But even then, I could probably use analog connections to connect the Parasound and still get new audio formats (using a player that has the analog connections will limit my choices even further though), but I would prefer to use HDMI to keep things digital.
> 
> 
> I think I just need to wait until my RS1 arrives and re-evaluate things after that.



Rob,


That's not entirely true. While you do get access to the 4 most important Gennum VXP features (TruMotionHD, FineEdge, FideltyEngine, RealityExpansion) in the RS-1, you don't get near the flexibility, adjustments and options that you get with the 50 or D2. I also have an RS1 on order and currently own an AVM 50. I've been reading your emails in the projector section and I can see you know your PJ's. So you know the user menu and options on the RS1 are very weak. So weak that several people are passing on the RS-1 despite it's great performance. While performance is "hopefully" :0) fantastic on the RS-1 you don't have access to RGB colors, gamma, stretch, DNR, etc. Gennum controls like you do in the Anthem's... There are so many more VXP features that you get access to through the Anthem that you'll never get with the RS-1. The VXP menu on the Anthem is 8 tabs thick with a ton of user adjustable settings. I don't understand what half of them do.


I'm a total novice and I'm still learning AV/HT but I'm amazed at the level of control, features and flexibility the AVM 50 provides. You'll get access to 10% of those features in the RS-1. You need to go check out the scalar adjustment menu in the D2. There are a TON of options, options JVC will never offer and can't. JVC won't make the investment to keep updating it like Anthem does. Plus as time goes on, Anthem will add or upgrade those features as new technology and feature requests emerge. I highly doubt the RS-1 is going to have those same future features. JVC has stated that they will limit the firmware upgrades; if provide them at all. If my memory is correct, it's going to be a major PITA to upgrade the RS-1 while the Anthem is a piece of cake. Anthem is continually updating the firmware to add more features and adjustments. Heck they just changed the interface and it's so much better.


If you want total and complete control of your scalar (horsepower) features then you need to get the D2 or AVM 50. While you'll have some redundant features (see above), the dual processing (D2 to RS-1) will guarantee that nothing will be missed since the content will go through the processor twice. I view it this way, the AVM 50 is where I do all my hard core super freak adjustments and the RS-1 is where I'll make minor real time changes depending on what content is showing that day and what the room conditions call for (brightness, contrast, sharpness).


Lastly, the audio on the AVM 50 is sick. These scalar features are pure upside. One other positive, the AVM 50 allows me to have more input devices since there are more ports on the AVM 50 than the RS-1. Finally, what happens if your RS-1 catches on fire and you swear to never buy another JVC product? Your Gennum VXP went away with your PJ; with the Anthem you always have a VXP no matter what toy you're watching your content on. So as you change PJ's, your settings stay and you keep your processing engine/power.



Bob,


Oh super nerd







and great one, good to all those who are learning. You've fired up my interest again. I've always wondered why the D2 had an extra DSP. For the life of me I couldn't figure out what it was doing since the features on the AVM 50 and D2 are almost identical. The only difference I've seen is the D2 does 24/192 sampling; what ever that is. Are you stating that the extra DSP is not used at this time? Is it sitting idle waiting for this new Room EQ upgrade? If so, will the AVM 50 ever be able to take advantage of the Room EQ or does it not have enough processing power? What is 24/192 sampling anyway?


Since it's amateur hour







and I'm writing away I figured now would be a good time to ask for some help on AVM tuning. I currently use an Xbox HD DVD drive, PS3 and Oppo 970 to drive my video content. The PS3 seems to be getting the majority of the work these days. When I set up the PS3 or any device for that matter should I specify PCM or DD HDMI in the set up menu? Furthermore when I load a new Blue-Ray DVD what audio format should I choose in the DVD menu? Basically I'm asking what audio set up is going to give me the best sound with my AVM 50? The same question applies for the 50. What audio format should I choose in the Anthem menu? PLIIX, DD, ????? If you had a PS3 hooked to an AVM 50 how would you set up the audio on both devices? Would it change for the 970 and Xbox HD DVD player? What's the trick to make these two sing together?


I have a copy of the Live Video Settings Editor. What is it used for? What should I use it for? Set up editor?


Thanks for ALL your help. I love my system but I feel I could be getting more out of the audio. The scalar video is fantastic on my Pearl and will only improve when I switch it out for the much anticipated RS-1.


Thanks to everyone for their input!!!!!


Big Tex


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Big Tex,

Live Video Settings Editor gives you access to even more video processing goodies than you will find in the D2's or AVM-50's built-in menus. You can set custom video output timings, for example, to match the native resolution of particular displays. And you can set custom "Gamma Correction" curves. I can't tell you what those are until you learn the secret handshake. Some of these adjustments can really screw up your imaging if you don't know what you are about. That's why Anthem hid them in a separate program intended primarily for use by professional installer/calibration folks.


Setup Editor is a simpler utility whose basic purpose is to save and restore Setup menu configurations on the PC. It can be used to move a configuration from one Anthem to another for example.


-----------------------------------------------------------


When attaching devices, you want to use "bitstream" to send the STILL-ENCODED version of the audio track to the Anthem for regular old Dolby Digital 5.1 or DTS 5.1 as found on standard DVD players on on HDTV. Some devices will use "Dolby Digital" to mean "bitstream".


You use "PCM" for sending the DECODED version of high bandwidth audio tracks to the Anthem. Decoding unpacks the multi-channel bitstream into its component PCM streams -- one digital audio PCM stream for each target speaker. Such tracks would be from HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs, or DVD-Audio or SACD discs played on players (like the Oppo 970) that can do this over HDMI.


To get high bandwidth PCM your player has to be able to decode the packed audio track format (TrueHD or DTS-HD MA or SACD or DVD-Audio's MLP for example), or you have to be playing one of the Blu-Ray titles that comes with a "pre-decoded" PCM track. In the rush to get HD-DVD and Blu-Ray launched, early players were shipped without all the decoders. If you try to play a track the player can't decode you will only get the lower quality "compatibility" or "core" track which is basically at the quality level of the best DTS tracks from standard DVDs. The compatibility track comes over as a bitstream that the Anthem decodes. It is the only style of audio you can get from these players over traditional optical or coax digital audio connections.


Even when you set "bitstream" audio output, your source device will automatically switch to PCM for non multi-channel material. So for example if you play CDs on the Oppo 970 over HDMI what you get is 2 channel PCM even though you set "bitstream" output. And when you watch normal TV programs you will also get 1 or 2 channels of PCM.


---------------------------------------


The 2 DSPs in the D2 are indeed being used today. They are just not being used to their full capacity.


To get a better handle on 192KHz upsampling, and why all the cool people want to have it, read this post from earlier in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post8079464 


--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/0
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 
> That's not entirely true. While you do get access to the 4 most important Gennum VXP features (TruMotionHD, FineEdge, FideltyEngine, RealityExpansion) in the RS-1, you don't get near the flexibility, adjustments and options that you get with the 50 or D2. I also have an RS1 on order and currently own an AVM 50. I've been reading your emails in the projector section and I can see you know your PJ's. So you know the user menu and options on the RS1 are very weak. So weak that several people are passing on the RS-1 despite it's great performance. While performance is "hopefully" :0) fantastic on the RS-1 you don't have access to RGB colors, gamma, stretch, DNR, etc. Gennum controls like you do in the Anthem's... There are so many more VXP features that you get access to through the Anthem that you'll never get with the RS-1. The VXP menu on the Anthem is 8 tabs thick with a ton of user adjustable settings. I don't understand what half of them do.
> 
> 
> I'm a total novice and I'm still learning AV/HT but I'm amazed at the level of control, features and flexibility the AVM 50 provides. You'll get access to 10% of those features in the RS-1. You need to go check out the scalar adjustment menu in the D2. There are a TON of options, options JVC will never offer and can't. JVC won't make the investment to keep updating it like Anthem does. Plus as time goes on, Anthem will add or upgrade those features as new technology and feature requests emerge. I highly doubt the RS-1 is going to have those same future features. JVC has stated that they will limit the firmware upgrades; if provide them at all. If my memory is correct, it's going to be a major PITA to upgrade the RS-1 while the Anthem is a piece of cake. Anthem is continually updating the firmware to add more features and adjustments. Heck they just changed the interface and it's so much better.
> 
> 
> If you want total and complete control of your scalar (horsepower) features then you need to get the D2 or AVM 50. While you'll have some redundant features (see above), the dual processing (D2 to RS-1) will guarantee that nothing will be missed since the content will go through the processor twice. I view it this way, the AVM 50 is where I do all my hard core super freak adjustments and the RS-1 is where I'll make minor real time changes depending on what content is showing that day and what the room conditions call for (brightness, contrast, sharpness).
> 
> 
> Lastly, the audio on the AVM 50 is sick. These scalar features are pure upside. One other positive, the AVM 50 allows me to have more input devices since there are more ports on the AVM 50 than the RS-1. Finally, what happens if your RS-1 catches on fire and you swear to never buy another JVC product? Your Gennum VXP went away with your PJ; with the Anthem you always have a VXP no matter what toy you're watching your content on. So as you change PJ's, your settings stay and you keep your processing engine/power
> 
> 
> .......
> 
> 
> Big Tex













That is one of the best replies to one of my posts in quite a while (and that's saying something!), and I really appreciate it! Of course you are correct about the limited abilities of the RS1 and the internal Gennum chip! In light of other controls the RS1 will lack (including proper adjustment of RGB colors, gamma, stretch for CIH and DNR that you mention), the 50/D2 could be used for these adjustments/features before sending the video to the RS1! Excellent point!


I would certainly be more comfortable knowing that other Anthem AVM50/D2 owners will be pairing them with the RS1, as it simply makes it much easier to compare notes and ask questions. I believe Alain (Levesque) indicated that he will be getting the JVC as well, and I consider that a huge advantage.


Considering how many people on this forum that I have a great deal of respect for own Anthems (Kris Deering, Levesque, Bob Pariseau, Film Mixer, DrHankz, and several others I am getting to know via this thread EDIT: and the fact Larry (PooperScooper has one on order is certainly a good sign as well)) I have no doubt that I would be very satisfied with their product!


Thanks again for the response Tex. "New Member"? Doesn't seem that way to me!










This thread ROCKS!


----------



## obie_fl

Interesting Paul...I didn't get a chance to check the Toshiba A1 or PS3 today, hopefully I can find time to check those tomorrow night. My Pioneer 79AVi should be back from the shop this week too.


----------



## nethomas

Bob Pariseau, I have sent you a PM


Gene


----------



## sfield

I've been very busy since I last posted about the 24p trials. For now, I have the D2 configured to output 1080p60, since I did see rare glitches with the last timing values that I posted (and said glitches require pausing the source component and resumting, potentially several times to "re-sync").


I just added a PS3 as a source component, for Blu-Ray playback capability. This is hooked up via HDMI, and the PS3 correctly detected the audio and video modes supported by the anthem (number of channels and bit-rate). With the PS3 in the mix, I'm encountering a new problem when switching between source components. I've found that I'll get a purple screen occasionally after switching from the PS3 to another input. This is a solid purple screen that requires power-cyling the anthem to recover (sometimes multiple power cycles are required). It seems this problem happens when the PS3 has switched video output modes (eg: the Game Resistance fall of man sets the PS3 to 720p output -- from 1080p). This is with the 1.10 software.






> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I suspect you are right, which is why I'm surprised their hasn't been a public maintenance release of the software on the web site. And if that's true, I also can't fathom why they are still shipping V1.11 on new machines when they know that some smallish percentage of customers are going to have serious 1080i/1080p problems out of the box.
> 
> 
> But there are some thorny issues like proper 1080i/60Hz conversion to 1080p/24Hz that I'm not sure have been sorted out yet (any luck yet SFIELD?). And there may be others being worked.
> 
> 
> And then again, they may be waiting for some new features to get finished.
> 
> 
> Where's the rumor mill when you need one?
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been very busy since I last posted about the 24p trials. For now, I have the D2 configured to output 1080p60, since I did see rare glitches with the last timing values that I posted (and said glitches require pausing the source component and resumting, potentially several times to "re-sync").
> 
> 
> I just added a PS3 as a source component, for Blu-Ray playback capability. This is hooked up via HDMI, and the PS3 correctly detected the audio and video modes supported by the anthem (number of channels and bit-rate). With the PS3 in the mix, I'm encountering a new problem when switching between source components. I've found that I'll get a purple screen occasionally after switching from the PS3 to another input. This is a solid purple screen that requires power-cyling the anthem to recover (sometimes multiple power cycles are required). It seems this problem happens when the PS3 has switched video output modes (eg: the Game Resistance fall of man sets the PS3 to 720p output -- from 1080p). This is with the 1.10 software.



Anthem is up to V1.11g in test software versions now. The loss of video upon a re-handshake -- requiring a power cycle -- is thought to be fixed by now. You should probably contact Anthem tech support and ask them to mail it to you.


Kris Deering is apparently convinced the Anthem's problem with 1080i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz conversion is due to failure of the cadence detection to keep things locked in film mode. He thinks Anthem is going to have to add a Film Mode = ON option to make this work. I'm not sure why he thinks the cadence detection itself can't be improved.


If you have a chance you should update Anthem on your experiments with /24Hz and see if they have any improvements to offer.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/0
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 
> When I set up the PS3 or any device for that matter should I specify PCM or DD HDMI in the set up menu? Furthermore when I load a new Blue-Ray DVD what audio format should I choose in the DVD menu?
> 
> Big Tex





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just added a PS3 as a source component, for Blu-Ray playback capability. This is hooked up via HDMI, and the PS3 correctly detected the audio and video modes supported by the anthem (number of channels and bit-rate). With the PS3 in the mix, I'm encountering a new problem when switching between source components. I've found that I'll get a purple screen occasionally after switching from the PS3 to another input. This is a solid purple screen that requires power-cyling the anthem to recover (sometimes multiple power cycles are required). It seems this problem happens when the PS3 has switched video output modes (eg: the Game Resistance fall of man sets the PS3 to 720p output -- from 1080p). This is with the 1.10 software.



When setting up the PS3, definitely use PCM. You can diddle with the audio settings, but do NOT pick PCM 7.1, the Anthem cannot handle it. Use a 5.1. I assumed the bandwidth should match the pre-amp so I picked 96 (forget exactly) for AVM-50 and 193 for the D2. The default it pcks I think is correct.


The newer Anthem firmware is much better on not loosing the video on switching sources or even coming up in some sources. Get an update from Anthem or wait on the non-beta release to be posted. It makes life much easier. Right now I'm losing video on the Tivo S3 still but if I jump to a guide (720p) or just the Tivo menu and back it usually gives me my video back YMMV.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With the PS3 in the mix, I'm encountering a new problem when switching between source components. I've found that I'll get a purple screen occasionally after switching from the PS3 to another input. This is a solid purple screen that requires power-cyling the anthem to recover (sometimes multiple power cycles are required). It seems this problem happens when the PS3 has switched video output modes (eg: the Game Resistance fall of man sets the PS3 to 720p output -- from 1080p). This is with the 1.10 software.



I've seen this exact same symptom, now that I think about it I haven't seen it since I quit playing R:FoM, so I think you may be correct in your diagnosis. For the record I'm still running 1.10 also.


----------



## ddimberio

Anyone have experiences with the new DirectTV boxes and the Anthem? What are general experiences out there with DirectTV vs. cable (I have comcast)?


I am thinking of switching BACK to DirectTV. Thanks for the input. - David


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone have experiences with the new DirectTV boxes and the Anthem? What are general experiences out there with DirectTV vs. cable (I have comcast)?
> 
> 
> I am thinking of switching BACK to DirectTV. Thanks for the input. - David




Dave... I think the MPEG-4 pictures look alot better thant the older local HD feeds, and as of late, the other HD feeds have been pretty good... that being said, I have an H20 in the theater, and it still has handshaking issues using HDMI.. the HR20 has been increasingly more stable with HDMI, and I might pick one up anyways so I can timeshift in the theater. I would pick this over the H20 anyways.


My solution for the H20 problems? Use component. I can see no difference in the picture, and the optical audio woks just fine.


----------



## venpra

I finished incorporating my new AVM-50 into my system over the weekend. I think I have everything connected properly except for the following issue:


I have a Velodyne DD-18 subwoofer connected to AVM-50 as follows -
Balanced XLR from AVM-50 subwoofer output to DD-18 subwoofer input

S-video from DD-18 to AVM-50 AUX s-video in (for OSD)

Analog audio L-R from DD-18 to AVM-50 AUX analog audio L-R (for Room EQ)

I have the AVM-50 connected via. HDMI to my 1080p Sony SXRD 70" TV. Anthem upconversion is working its magic on every input except the s-video input from the DD-18. I thought AVM-50 can upconvert from s-video all the way to HDMI.


Can somebody point out whether my assumption that s-video gest upconverted to HDMI is correct? If so, what am I doing wrong?


BTW, my equipment list -
Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player (1080i - HDMI) --> Anthem AVM50 --> TV (Sony SXRD 70" 1080p television)

DirecTV HD70-300 DVR (native - HDMI) --> Anthem AVM50 --> TV

Oppo 970HD DVD player (480i - HDMI) --> Anthem AVM50 --> TV

XBox 360 (1080i - component + optical audio) --> Anthem AVM50 --> TV

Nintendo Wii (480i - component + analog audio) --> Anthem AVM50 --> TV

Anthem AVM50 --> Velodyne DD18 subwoofer (balanced XLR)

Anthem AVM50 --> Bryston 9BSST amplifier (balanced XLR)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *venpra* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I finished incorporating my new AVM-50 into my system over the weekend. I think I have everything connected properly except for the following issue:
> 
> 
> I have a Velodyne DD-18 subwoofer connected to AVM-50 as follows -
> Balanced XLR from AVM-50 subwoofer output to DD-18 subwoofer input
> 
> S-video from DD-18 to AVM-50 AUX s-video in (for OSD)
> 
> Analog audio L-R from DD-18 to AVM-50 AUX analog audio L-R (for Room EQ)
> 
> I have the AVM-50 connected via. HDMI to my 1080p Sony SXRD 70" TV. Anthem upconversion is working its magic on every input except the s-video input from the DD-18. I thought AVM-50 can upconvert from s-video all the way to HDMI.
> 
> 
> Can somebody point out whether my assumption that s-video gest upconverted to HDMI is correct? If so, what am I doing wrong?
> 
> 
> BTW, my equipment list -
> Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player (1080i - HDMI) --> Anthem AVM50 --> TV (Sony SXRD 70" 1080p television)
> 
> DirecTV HD70-300 DVR (native - HDMI) --> Anthem AVM50 --> TV
> 
> Oppo 970HD DVD player (480i - HDMI) --> Anthem AVM50 --> TV
> 
> XBox 360 (1080i - component + optical audio) --> Anthem AVM50 --> TV
> 
> Nintendo Wii (480i - component + analog audio) --> Anthem AVM50 --> TV
> 
> Anthem AVM50 --> Velodyne DD18 subwoofer (balanced XLR)
> 
> Anthem AVM50 --> Bryston 9BSST amplifier (balanced XLR)



There is a long standing problem getting the Anthem scaler to properly recognize and process the S-video user interface input from the Velodyne DD series subwoofers and the standalone Velodyne SMS-1 product. It is not clear what the issue is. You are not doing anything wrong.


There is reason to believe that Anthem MAY have fixed this with their latest test version of the software -- V1.11g -- but we've not yet had confirmation of this. This software is known to have fixed a similar problem from an I-pod dock. To get the test software, contact Anthem tech support. Be aware that it is test software so it may have a few surprises in it. It is not known how close Anthem is getting to releasing this software publicly on their web site.


-------------------------------------------------------


As an alternative workaround, run S-video cable from the Anthem to your display. Even though the Anthem's scaler won't recognize the S-video from the DD-18, the Anthem still passes it through unprocessed on the S-video output for the Main path. To view this S-video you will need to select the Anthem input device you have set up for viewing the DD-18 user interface (i.e., the one that is set up to send the DD-18's S-video to the Anthem scaler) and then you will ALSO have to change the input on your TV to its S-video input.

--Bob


----------



## venpra

Anybody with experience setting up AVM-50 with Definitive Technology speakers?


I have the following speakers in a 5.1 setup:


Fronts - BP7000SC (w/ built-in subwoofers)

Center - CLR3000 (w/ built-in subwoofer)

Surrounds - BPVX/P (w/ built-in subwoofers)

Outboard subwoofer - Velodyne DD-18


Amplifier - Bryston 9BSST (connected to AVM-50 using balanced XLR interconnects)


Any input from how to properly categorize the speakers (small/large) to specific settings as a starting point will be appreciated.


----------



## venpra

Thank you Bob. For what it was worth, I did inquire with Anthem tech support last Friday about the latest firmware (before I even knew about the s-video issue) and Nick e-mailed me version 1.11g. I will try installing it this evening to see if it has resolved the issue. Running a separate s-video cable from Anthem to TV will be my last resort. I will report back on my findings after the install.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

venpra,

Although I've not tried setting up Definitive speakers there is a post in this thread that might prove helpful as regards integrating and calibrating bass using your DD-18.


See the first post in this thread and look for the link to my post on setting up a DD-15.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *venpra* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob. For what it was worth, I did inquire with Anthem tech support last Friday about the latest firmware (before I even knew about the s-video issue) and Nick e-mailed me version 1.11g. I will try installing it this evening to see if it has resolved the issue. Running a separate s-video cable from Anthem to TV will be my last resort. I will report back on my findings after the install.



If you still have the Velodyne S-video problem after installing V1.11g, please do let Nick know. They are actively working on that area of the software right now, so we might as well get this one nailed as well.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Nick got back to me on the LFE issue. He said it was fixed months ago... I am running 1.10 so maybe that was months ago? He did send me 1.11g so I guess I will have to bite the bullet and load it to see if it corrects the problem.


----------



## venpra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you still have the Velodyne S-video problem after installing V1.11g, please do let Nick know. They are actively working on that area of the software right now, so we might as well get this one nailed as well.
> 
> --Bob



I sure will. S-video issue is not that big of a deal as I really do not need the upconverting capabilities of AVM-50 applied to this input. It is just that it would be elegant to have a single cable connection (HDMI) between AVM-50 and the TV.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The truth can be told! DRHANKZ has his home theater built inside his low rider car!
> 
> (grin!)
> 
> --Bob



That's a good one


----------



## Tolstoi




Rob Tomlin said:


> So the biggest reason to upgrade would probably be for the sound formats (HDMI connectivity that my Parasound Halo C2 lacks). But even then, I could probably use analog connections to connect the Parasound and still get new audio formats (using a player that has the analog connections will limit my choices even further though), but I would prefer to use HDMI to keep things digital.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^
> 
> I tough about doing that before upgrading for the D2, but the main issue going analogue is that most of the Pre-Pro are only providing one set of high-end multichannel analogue inputs. Having both a Blu-Ray player and a HD DVD player, you will have to pick which one will be allowed to pass HD audio to your analogue input.
> 
> 
> I am currently using the XA2 and the pioneer BDP-HD1 with the D2 with great results. The XA2 does decode TrueHD and pass the results in PCM format. On the Blu-Ray side, due to the availability of lossless PCM over HDMI to the D2, I don't feel that I am missing anything from the lack of TrueHD and DTS HD playback.
Click to expand...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick got back to me on the LFE issue. He said it was fixed months ago... I am running 1.10 so maybe that was months ago? He did send me 1.11g so I guess I will have to bite the bullet and load it to see if it corrects the problem.



V1.10 and V1.11 came out before Christmas. They are supposed to have the same software, with just an installer application change. V1.11a came out just after New Year's Day. It too was supposed to have just an installer change.


So the first version after your current V1.10 that might have included a bug fix for this would have been V1.11b which came out early in January.


That's "months ago" of course, but a fix for the LFE levels via HDMI PCM was not listed in any of the release notes from V1.11a through V1.11g that we've seen here. I would have picked up on that since my query back around Christmas was still fresh in my mind.


It also doesn't explain why folks like Kris Deering were saying they didn't think there was a problem in LFE levels back before the holidays.


This one needs to be nailed down better.


One possibility is that the bug -- if the Anthems ever actually had the bug -- was fixed in one of the test software releases between V1.06 and V1.10 (which would match with Nick's surprise), but somehow, accidentally, got dropped from the code base that was actually used to produce V1.10 itself. I.e., the bug is back. That sort of thing happens all the time in software projects.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I wish some of the others would jump in and check the LFE issue. It takes all of 5 minutes if you have the Avia or DVE disks and an SPL meter. I was kind of surprised by the "months ago" answer too since 1.10 isn't that old.


I still need to check some of my other players and then update the firmware. Problem is I'm real short on time this week.


----------



## ajeruns

Venpra,


My AVM 50/MCA 50/ MCA 20 setup is connected to Def Tech BP 10's (mains), CLR2500 (center), and BP2X's 9 (surrounds). My sub is a DD-15. I found that I get the cleanest and tightest bass setting all my speakers to small. The crossover frequency in the AVM is set to 80 THX, with the sub's crossover bypassed.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So the biggest reason to upgrade would probably be for the sound formats (HDMI connectivity that my Parasound Halo C2 lacks). But even then, I could probably use analog connections to connect the Parasound and still get new audio formats (using a player that has the analog connections will limit my choices even further though), but I would prefer to use HDMI to keep things digital.



^




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tough about doing that before upgrading for the D2, but the main issue going analogue is that most of the Pre-Pro are only providing one set of high-end multichannel analogue inputs. Having both a Blu-Ray player and a HD DVD player, you will have to pick which one will be allowed to pass HD audio to your analogue input.



It's even worse than that! I have a Pioneer Elite 59avi that is currently utilizing the analogs for SA-CD and DVD-A duty! So I would have up to 3 devices vying for the analog inputs! Do you know how many cables that would be?!










HDMI would certainly be a life saver in this regard.



> Quote:
> I am currently using the XA2 and the pioneer BDP-HD1 with the D2 with great results. The XA2 does decode TrueHD and pass the results in PCM format. On the Blu-Ray side, due to the availability of lossless PCM over HDMI to the D2, I don't feel that I am missing anything from the lack of TrueHD and DTS HD playback.



Yep, from what I have read Blu-ray owners are perfectly happy using the lossless PCM. The D2 certainly seems like it would be a perfect match for doing this.


BTW, Tolstoi, I do see you posting in the JVC RS1 threads once in a while, but I am not clear on whether you have ordered one?


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When setting up the PS3, definitely use PCM. You can diddle with the audio settings, but do NOT pick PCM 7.1, the Anthem cannot handle it. Use a 5.1. I assumed the bandwidth should match the pre-amp so I picked 96 (forget exactly) for AVM-50 and 193 for the D2. The default it pcks I think is correct.
> 
> 
> The newer Anthem firmware is much better on not loosing the video on switching sources or even coming up in some sources. Get an update from Anthem or wait on the non-beta release to be posted. It makes life much easier. Right now I'm losing video on the Tivo S3 still but if I jump to a guide (720p) or just the Tivo menu and back it usually gives me my video back YMMV.



My PS3 is connected to my D2 via HDMI. I configured my PS3 to output LPCM. In the audio settings, I selected "automatic" since I wasn't sure which of the dozen or so options to manually select. What did you do to conclude that the D2 can't handle LPCM 7.1? Theoretically, the D2, with HDMI 1.1 support, should be able to handle LPCM 7.1. Do you have a 7.1 speaker setup or 5.1?


My TiVo S3 is connected via HDMI to my D2 (with non-beta firmware version 1.11).

The "losing video" issue is very rare for me. A little more common is a "losing audio" issue. Occassionally, while switching between the TiVo menu and a program, I lose the audio. To get the audio back, I go back to the TiVo menu and press the cursor up or down keys until I hear the TiVo sound effects. Sometimes, I have to switch to another source device, and then switch back to my TiVo S3. Anyone else have this problem? Note that this "losing audio" problem is not an issue once I have started watching a program. It only happens I believe when switching back and forth between the TiVo menu and a program (or maybe when changing channels, but I don't recall). Aside: just wanted to say, despite this minor issue, I'm still extremely happy with the TiVo S3 (and D2), and wouldn't go back to my old SA 8300HD box (which has many more issues).


----------



## randman

With regards to where is the video processing best done, either in the Anthem or the projector (e.g. JVC RS-1), my additional comments regarding this issue are as follows.


In addition to other advantages that others have mentioned, one thing I like about the processing being in the Anthem is that you can have a customized setting for each source component (in fact, you can have multiple customized settings for each source component, such as DVD1, DVD2, etc. for the DVD input). I suppose the RS-1 also has different saved settings, but you will have to remember to use the correct setting when switching devices in the Anthem. Unless you use a universal remote with macros programmed in, it would be harder to have to switch the D2 input and the projector's input and ensure that the projector is configured to use the correct video settings.


I also like the fact that I only need one cable from the D2 to the projector (ignoring for now the OSD issue with Velodyne SMS-1 and DD subs). The cable runs from my source components to the D2 are short. However, the cable run from D2 to the projector are much, much longer, since they have to snake inside walls & ceilings. It's nice to only need one cable (an HDMI cable) between the D2 and projector.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My PS3 is connected to my D2 via HDMI. I configured my PS3 to output LPCM. In the audio settings, I selected "automatic" since I wasn't sure which of the dozen or so options to manually select. What did you do to conclude that the D2 can't handle LPCM 7.1? Theoretically, the D2, with HDMI 1.1 support, should be able to handle LPCM 7.1. Do you have a 7.1 speaker setup or 5.1?



The Anthems can accept no more than 5.1 channel audio on any input, including HDMI PCM.


However, the Anthems can process 5.1 channel audio input up to 7.1 speaker output.


Anthem has confirmed that any change here would require a hardware upgrade. However, keep in mind there is precious little "real" 7.1 source content out there and that is likely to remain true for quite some time. So for me, at least, this is a non-problem.


------------------------------------------


HDMI has a lot of "optional" features, and multi-channel audio is one of them.


An HDMI V1.1 device, and even an HDMI V1.3 device, might only accept stereo audio for example. This would typically be the case, for example, with a TV with an HDMI input but with only stereo speakers.


In fact the Anthem's own HDMI output is also limited to stereo audio.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wish some of the others would jump in and check the LFE issue. It takes all of 5 minutes if you have the Avia or DVE disks and an SPL meter. I was kind of surprised by the "months ago" answer too since 1.10 isn't that old.
> 
> 
> I still need to check some of my other players and then update the firmware. Problem is I'm real short on time this week.



Yes, it would be great if someone with a PS3 or one of the stand-alone HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players hooked up via HDMI could also check this -- particularly if you are also using the V1.11g test software. But even a V1.10 or V1.11 test to confirm what Tom is seeing would be useful.


Let's not let this drop off the radar again, folks. It's high time to determine definitively whether or not this problem exists.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's even worse than that! I have a Pioneer Elite 59avi that is currently utilizing the analogs for SA-CD and DVD-A duty! So I would have up to 3 devices vying for the analog inputs! Do you know how many cables that would be?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HDMI would certainly be a life saver in this regard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, from what I have read Blu-ray owners are perfectly happy using the lossless PCM. The D2 certainly seems like it would be a perfect match for doing this.
> 
> 
> BTW, Tolstoi, I do see you posting in the JVC RS1 threads once in a while, but I am not clear on whether you have ordered one?



I am also using the Oppo970HD for SACD and DVD-A, analogue is not a good a path for folks like us.










Using HDMI I significantly cleaned up my rack. Only one signal cable and one power cable per source is so simple. The only one thing to be careful is to get good quality HDMI cables to ensure stability.


The JVC RS1 is on my short list for my next projector. The target time for the around December unless I crack before.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The JVC RS1 is on my short list for my next projector. The target time for the around December unless I crack before.



If your target time is December - you will probably change

your mind when you see the Sony Diamond - which comes

out at CEDIA in September. I saw both PJs at CES and I'm

waiting for the Diamond.


----------



## obie_fl

I will try to check with the PS3 and Toshiba A1 and possibly the 79AVi with 1.10 before I upgrade to 1.11g. It may not happen until the weekend though.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If your target time is December - you will probably change
> 
> your mind when you see the Sony Diamond - which comes
> 
> out at CEDIA in September. I saw both PJs at CES and I'm
> 
> waiting for the Diamond.




This is why I said short listed... the door is still opened.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is why I said short listed... the door is still opened.



From all the MILLIONS of JVC RS-1 Postings I have been

reading here on AVS - I don't see it as even a candidate

unless your have absolutely NOTHING TODAY. For me

it would be a step back. Or at best - sideways.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> From all the MILLIONS of JVC RS-1 Postings I have been
> 
> reading here on AVS - I don't see it as even a candidate
> 
> unless your have absolutely NOTHING TODAY. For me
> 
> it would be a step back. Or at best - sideways.




Final decision is also pending a few tests in my own setup.


----------



## 3Dfx

I have an AVM50 and MCA50 on order and have a couple questions...


Is there any disadvantage in using Component Video from the Pio BDP-HD1 to the Anthem instead of HDMI, and then Component from the Anthem to the Pio 1540HD?


Also, Component from the TiVo S3 to the Anthem, then Anthem to 1540HD via the same (single) Component cable.


My rationale is to avoid any potential HDMI issues yet still take advantage of the Anthem's scaler.


I've read the entire thread and remain somewhat confused.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50 and MCA50 on order and have a couple questions...
> 
> 
> Is there any disadvantage in using Component Video from the Pio BDP-HD1 to the Anthem instead of HDMI, and then Component from the Anthem to the Pio 1540HD?



A WHOPPING BIG DIFFERENCE.


No Lossless Audio.


----------



## 3Dfx

I was thinking of using multi-channel (analog) out from the BDP-HD1 to the Anthem and optical coax from the S3 since that is how I'm currently doing it with my Receiver.


Would that work and still allow lossless audio?


Thanks for the quick reply btw.


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, it would be great if someone with a PS3 or one of the stand-alone HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players hooked up via HDMI could also check this -- particularly if you are also using the V1.11g test software. But even a V1.10 or V1.11 test to confirm what Tom is seeing would be useful.
> 
> 
> Let's not let this drop off the radar again, folks. It's high time to determine definitively whether or not this problem exists.
> 
> --Bob




What do I need to do. I have a PS3 via hdmi pcm and have not had any problems with the subs getting information.


Jeremy


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was thinking of using multi-channel (analog) out from the BDP-HD1 to the Anthem and optical coax from the S3 since that is how I'm currently doing it with my Receiver.
> 
> 
> Would that work and still allow lossless audio?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply btw.



TRY it both ways -


I know in advance which one you will PICK as the BEST.


5.1 Analog is for those who don't have HDMI - Duh.


WHY BUY a HDMI Receiver - Then?


----------



## 3Dfx

LOL. Ok, I'll take that as a no.










I guess my rationale was to avoid any potential HDMI issues since that seems to be the majority of the discussion here.


I was under the impression multi-channel analog was (lossless) LPCM.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LOL. Ok, I'll take that as a no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess my rationale was to avoid any potential HDMI issues since that seems to be the majority of the discussion here.



The only HDMI problems are with some cable boxes.

Use component for them because optical coax is fine.


There ARE NO HDMI problems with a BDP-HD1.


I have both Toshiba HD DVD and Pioneer - NO HDMI problems.


My Sony DVRs are hooked to Component now - I had them

hooked via HDMI also with no problems. I just wanted to

open up some HDMI Ports for future use.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there any disadvantage in using Component Video from the Pio BDP-HD1 to the Anthem instead of HDMI, and then Component from the Anthem to the Pio 1540HD?
> 
> 
> Also, Component from the TiVo S3 to the Anthem, then Anthem to 1540HD via the same (single) Component cable.
> 
> 
> My rationale is to avoid any potential HDMI issues yet still take advantage of the Anthem's scaler.
> 
> 
> I've read the entire thread and remain somewhat confused.



Things to consider:


* You can't get the highest quality audio from the Blu-Ray player unless you use HDMI or multi-channel analog connections into the Anthem. The traditional optical or coax digital audio cables will only carry the lower quality "compatibility" or "core" audio track -- about the same quality as the best DTS tracks found on standard DVDs. This is not bad by any means, but it is not as good as you can get.


* Some Component source and/or display devices have gratuitous "filtering" on their Component outputs or inputs which you can't turn off. This lowers resolution a bit compared to HDMI. I don't know if that is a problem with any of the devices you mention. This can be seen with horizontal and vertical resolution charts on calibration DVDs for example. Since video from discs and from HDTV is inherently digital, and since video processing in TVs is also inherently digital, using Component connections involves a digital to analog conversion at the source's output and an analog to digital conversion at the display's input. In modern devices this is not usually as significant a problem as the gratuitous filtering mentioned above.


* Both HD-DVD and Blu-Ray include a "feature" by which any given disc can prohibit HD output over Component cables. For such a disc, HD output would be limited to HDMI cables only. Despite threats to the contrary up until last year, no studio has yet started authoring any discs that work this way. It is not clear they ever will. But they could begin any time they think they can get away with it.


* Some newer Component source devices will not put out as high resolution a video signal on Component as they offer on HDMI. Such a device might top out at 1080i/60Hz on Component output while offering 1080p/60Hz on HDMI output for example.


* The Anthems limit Component output to 480p if they are being fed "Macrovision protected" Component input. Anthem HDMI output from the same Component source can still be scaled up however. Macrovision protection is, for example, imposed on the video output of some standard DVD players to keep people from copying standard DVDs to video tape. This is something the PLAYER does -- it's not in the content of the disc itself. However the disc is flagged for whether or not it is supposed to be copy protected at all. Most commercial, standard DVD discs are flagged to be copy protected.


* The Anthems also have a lower max resolution for Component input and output than for HDMI. The Anthems can input, process, and output up to 1080p/60Hz HDMI. The Anthem's can input, process, and output only up to 1080p/30Hz (1080i/60Hz) Component. The Anthems can "pass through" unprocessed 1080p/60Hz Component in to Component out. Note that since the Anthems can process up to 1080p/30Hz (1080i/60Hz) Component input, one of the processing things they can do is convert it to HDMI output, and the HDMI output can be frame rate raised up to 1080p/60Hz even though the input itself is Component and the Anthem's won't process Component output that high.


So these are the things to look out for.


Meanwhile, the HDMI side of things is probably about as low risk with the Anthem Statement D2 and AVM-50 as you are going to find ANYWHERE. Anthem tech support is very responsive to issues and is actively working to get improved HDMI software into people's hands on a case by case basis. I know of no other receiver or pre-amp/processor company that works this closely with their customers on HDMI stuff.


So although there are potential problems with HDMI, if you are tempted at all to go the HDMI route, doing it through the Anthem is about as close to a sure thing as you are going to find.

--Bob


----------



## 3Dfx

I guess I'm asking because someone here was having an issue with HDMI along with the S3 TiVo and video switching.


HDMI is certainly a more elegant solution however and affords the best of both worlds when it works. However, I thought using Component instead might be more reliable until all the HDMI issues are resolved with firmware updates or whatnot.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> * Both HD-DVD and Blu-Ray include a "feature" by which any given disc can prohibit HD output over Component cables.


*3Dfx* - I forgot about that tidbit that Bob reminded me about.


It is even worse than Bob described. They do some very unfriendly things when not using HDMI.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What do I need to do. I have a PS3 via hdmi pcm and have not had any problems with the subs getting information.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Jeremy, thanks for volunteering!


Read this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9929124 


and follow the link in that post to the specific test that people have been doing with their Pioneer receivers to verify that this bug is now fixed with their new Pioneer firmware.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess I'm asking because someone here was having an issue with HDMI along with the S3 TiVo and video switching.



THE S3 is notorious for not doing HDMI correctly.


You don't need HDMI for an S3.


----------



## 3Dfx

Gotcha. I was aware that using component out from the BDP-HD1 for example could result in less than full resolution if copy protection was enabled/flagged on the disc but I was thinking the Anthem's scaler would upconvert/de-interlace it.


I wasn't aware of the Macrovision limitation.


How would this work?:


Video:


BDP-HD1-->HDMI-->AVM50-->HDMI-->1540HD


S3 TiVo-->Component-->AVM50-->HDMI-->1540HD


Audio:


BDP-HD1-->HDMI--AVM50 (of course)


S3 TiVo-->Optical Coax-->AVM50


----------



## agrsiv95

Is there anything I need to change in my SMS-1?


Jeremy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess I'm asking because someone here was having an issue with HDMI along with the S3 TiVo and video switching.
> 
> 
> HDMI is certainly a more elegant solution however and affords the best of both worlds when it works. However, I thought using Component instead might be more reliable until all the HDMI issues are resolved with firmware updates or whatnot.



Yes the Tivo S3 box is one of the ones Anthem is addressing with the latest test versions of their software.


There may be a few HDMI issues left which can not be fixed without new S3 software from Tivo, but reports here lead me to believe that Anthem has almost completely resolved all of the issues by clever stuff on the Anthem side.


In any event Component video and optical audio from the Tivo S3 is certainly a reasonable way to go. But you really should try hooking up HDMI video as well and then do a little A/B testing yourself after you have separately calibrated video levels both ways. This will help you see if there are any differences that matter to you according to whatever the S3 and your display might secretly be doing differently for Component.


Look for calibration charts periodically broadcast by INHD and HD NET usually very early in the morning about once every 2 weeks. The INHD version is named "Tune Up".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was thinking of using multi-channel (analog) out from the BDP-HD1 to the Anthem and optical coax from the S3 since that is how I'm currently doing it with my Receiver.
> 
> 
> Would that work and still allow lossless audio?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply btw.



Using multi-channel analog for this needs to be done with care.


First, although the full, lossless audio track is used in the player for this, the quality of the audio that results is fundamentally dependent upon the quality of the digital to analog conversion audio output stage in THE PLAYER. I.e., it is the player's DACs you are hearing and not the Anthem's DACs.


Second, you should set the Anthem to Analog-Direct for that input so that the audio is passed to the output without being redigitized. Now this loses the ability of the Anthem to do all sorts of processing on the audio. In particular, speaker configuration management and bass steering should be set up in the player. It also means you can't get things like a stereo down-mix to go to the Zone 2 audio output. It also means you can't have the 5.1 analog input processed by the Anthem to drive a 7.1 speaker setup.


If you turn on the Anthem processing for that input, then the analog audio track gets redigitized, processed, and then converted back to analog again for output. Each extra step can potentially alter quality. In addition, you need to find a way to BYPASS speaker configuration management and bass steering in the player so that this crucial stuff isn't being done twice.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there anything I need to change in my SMS-1?
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Nope. And in fact you shouldn't really need to change your mains from small to large since the Avia test track won't be sending anything to the main speakers anyway for that test. I think you can do this test with your current speaker configuration unaltered.


Just switch between HDMI bitstream and HDMI multi-channel PCM and see if the test track's pink noise for bass on the LFE channel measures the same SPL (as it should) or if the PCM version is 10dB too low (which means the bug is present).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gotcha. I was aware that using component out from the BDP-HD1 for example could result in less than full resolution if copy protection was enabled/flagged on the disc but I was thinking the Anthem's scaler would upconvert/de-interlace it.
> 
> 
> I wasn't aware of the Macrovision limitation.
> 
> 
> How would this work?:
> 
> 
> Video:
> 
> 
> BDP-HD1-->HDMI-->AVM50-->HDMI-->1540HD
> 
> 
> S3 TiVo-->Component-->AVM50-->HDMI-->1540HD
> 
> 
> Audio:
> 
> 
> BDP-HD1-->HDMI--AVM50 (of course)
> 
> 
> S3 TiVo-->Optical Coax-->AVM50



Sure that's fine, but if it were me, I'd work with Anthem until HDMI works fine from the S3 as well. I really do think they are closing in on this despite the weirdness of some of the source devices out there.

--Bob


----------



## agrsiv95

I just ran the the tests and had the same readings with large or small speakers and PCM or Bitstream.


Jeremy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just ran the the tests and had the same readings with large or small speakers and PCM or Bitstream.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Cool! That says no LFE bug! What version of the Anthem software are you running?


The question now is whether the difference between your test and Tom's is due to the Anthem software version or due to some peculiarity of HDMI PCM output from the Oppo 970.

--Bob


----------



## agrsiv95

I have 1.11 that came with it. I had 1.10 But the problems with the trigger output could not be fixed/explained so my dealer "hot swapped" it for me. I have not had that problem with the new one but have developed an issue with it locking on to the 1080i input from the PS3.


I also have a 970 so I will try that now and let you know in a sec.


Jeremy


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wish some of the others would jump in and check the LFE issue. It takes all of 5 minutes if you have the Avia or DVE disks and an SPL meter. I was kind of surprised by the "months ago" answer too since 1.10 isn't that old.
> 
> 
> I still need to check some of my other players and then update the firmware. Problem is I'm real short on time this week.



I JUST PUT THE Avia DVD in my BDP-HD1 running HDMI to the D2.


I ran the audio tests for all the speakers and subwoofers.


AT 0 DB VOLUME on the D2 - all channels deliver 72 db on the SPL

meter. The Subwoofer delivers 82 db on the SPL meter.

*I CLAIM THERE IS NO PROBLEM.*


----------



## agrsiv95

Ok, with the 970 I have LFE out of SPDIF but not multi-channel or off. I does not matter what rez I output. The D2 shows 5.1 coming in at any rez output by the Oppo.


Jeremy


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Anthems can accept no more than 5.1 channel audio on any input, including HDMI PCM.
> 
> 
> However, the Anthems can process 5.1 channel audio input up to 7.1 speaker output.
> 
> 
> Anthem has confirmed that any change here would require a hardware upgrade. However, keep in mind there is precious little "real" 7.1 source content out there and that is likely to remain true for quite some time. So for me, at least, this is a non-problem.



Thanks. Yes, I looked over the Anthem manual, and it did say only 6 channels (and not 8) for HDMI PCM input. That's unfortunate. I'm worried that in the future, 7.1 will be more popular. I wasn't too worried that the analog inputs are only 5.1, but I (incorrectly) thought the Anthem was more future-proof by having 7.1 HDMI PCM input support. I guess we'll see how the future bodes... Those two additional rear channels I bought (to have a 7.1 channel setup) were not cheap!! I supposse they still help in improving the surround experience... Would be interesting to start a poll in another thread asking folks whether they have a 5.1 setup or a 7.1 setup....


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. Yes, I looked over the Anthem manual, and it did say only 6 channels (and not 8) for HDMI PCM input. That's unfortunate. I'm worried that in the future, 7.1 will be more popular. I wasn't too worried that the analog inputs are only 5.1, but I (incorrectly) thought the Anthem was more future-proof by having 7.1 HDMI PCM input support. I guess we'll see how the future bodes... Those two additional rear channels I bought (to have a 7.1 channel setup) were not cheap!! I supposse they still help in improving the surround experience... Would be interesting to start a poll in another thread asking folks whether they have a 5.1 setup or a 7.1 setup....




I have 7.1 and can turn of the rear channels in the D2. I will say it is a completely different sound with them off. I think the processing in the D2 is amazing to say the least. I can see where discrete 7.1 would be great (I will upgrade when this happens) but as I said, the capablity of the D2 is hard to beat.


Jeremy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I JUST PUT THE Avia DVD in my BDP-HD1 running HDMI to the D2.
> 
> 
> I ran the audio tests for all the speakers and subwoofers.
> 
> 
> AT 0 DB VOLUME on the D2 - all channels deliver 72 db on the SPL
> 
> meter. The Subwoofer delivers 82 db on the SPL meter.
> 
> *I CLAIM THERE IS NO PROBLEM.*



I'm not sure this is a valid test.


The question is whether there is any difference when you send a Dolby Digital bitstream over HDMI as opposed to multi-channel PCM over HDMI while playing the test track.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, with the 970 I have LFE out of SPDIF but not multi-channel or off. I does not matter what rez I output. The D2 shows 5.1 coming in at any rez output by the Oppo.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Jeremy you can't do this test using SPDIF cabling. It has to be HDMI.


The question is whether there is a difference for Dolby Digital "bitstream" sent over HDMI vs multi-channel PCM sent over HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## 3Dfx

It's my understanding the LFE channel is separate from and in addition to re-directed bass. When you use a calibration disc such as AVIA or DVE do they generate a test tone which includes the separate LFE channel? If not then you're not testing the LFE volume, but rather just the SPL level of whatever frequency the disc generates.


In other words, it's my understanding the the LFE bug only applies to the LFE channel and not to re-directed bass frequencies below those of the crossover freq.


I'm using a VSX-84TSXi and it has the LFE bug which is why I'm upgrading to the AVM50/MCA50. Although there is a firmware update available for the 84, Pioneer is being somewhat less than accomodating shall we say.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's my understanding the LFE channel is separate from and in addition to re-directed bass. When you use a calibration disc such as AVIA or DVE do they generate a test tone which includes the separate LFE channel? If not then you're not testing the LFE volume, but rather just the SPL level of whatever frequency the disc generates.
> 
> 
> Doesn't the the LFE bug apply only to the LFE channel and not to re-directed bass frequencies below those of the crossover freq?
> 
> 
> I'm using a VSX-84TSXi and it has the LFE bug which is why I'm upgrading to the AVM50/MCA50. Although there is a firmware update available for the 84, Pioneer is being somewhat less than accomodating shall we say.



Yes, Avia and DVE audio tests are mixed as 5.1 discrete tracks. So there is a separate LFE track in these tests.


The low LFE bug is specific to the LFE track itself. Bass steered to the subwoofer from other speakers is not affected.

--Bob


----------



## 3Dfx

Ah, good deal. I haven't used the DVE disc etc since I calibrated my LD player and I'm getting too old to remember.


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jeremy you can't do this test using SPDIF cabling. It has to be HDMI.
> 
> 
> The question is whether there is a difference for Dolby Digital "bitstream" sent over HDMI vs multi-channel PCM sent over HDMI.
> 
> --Bob



I only have an HDMI cable coming from the 970. The three options I listed are in the HDMI audio selection.


Jeremy


----------



## PooperScooper

Go a message today that my D2 is at the store - about 1 1/2 weeks after ordered. Pleasant surprise - instead of 2 1/2 weeks.


larry


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not sure this is a valid test.
> 
> 
> The question is whether there is any difference when you send a Dolby Digital bitstream over HDMI as opposed to multi-channel PCM over HDMI while playing the test track.
> 
> --Bob



AND how do you think the bit stream is PCM versus DD.


It comes off the Avia disk which is the reference source everyone said to use.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> AND how do you think the bit stream is PCM versus DD.
> 
> 
> It comes off the Avia disk which is the reference source everyone said to use.



Doesn't your player offer the option of either sending it over the HDMI as a DD 5.1 bitstream or as multi-channel PCM instead?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I only have an HDMI cable coming from the 970. The three options I listed are in the HDMI audio selection.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



My problem is I don't have an Oppo so I don't know what to tell you here. Apparently Tom found a way to get the Oppo to send the test track over the HDMI cable as (1) a DD 5.1 bitstream, and (2) a multi-channel PCM stream.


So Tom? What settings were you using in the Oppo to accomplish this?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Go a message today that my D2 is at the store - about 1 1/2 weeks after ordered. Pleasant surprise - instead of 2 1/2 weeks.
> 
> 
> larry



Larry! Why are you taking the time to post this message? Go get it!

(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Doesn't your player offer the option of either sending it over the HDMI as a DD 5.1 bitstream or as multi-channel PCM instead?
> 
> --Bob



The player sends the METHOD it was encoded on the disk [aka DD].


REMEMBER the Pioneer has NO AUDIO Codecs internally to change anything.


----------



## 3Dfx

*Is my understanding correct, in that...*


PCM is a lossless, uncompressed, multi-channel audio mix.


Dolby Digital is a compressed, lossy, digital bitstream.


When PCM is sent over HDMI there may be an LFE bug with some processors. Specifically, the LFE channel is not boosted by 10 dB in some processors/receivers.


PCM can be sent via multi-channel analog outputs in the event HDMI is unavailable, in which case no -10 dB bug exists.


PCM via HDMI affords better sound quality vs. DD, as long as the -10 dB PCM over HDMI bug does not exist.


PCM via multi-channel analog relies on the players DAC's vs. those in the processor/receiver.


The LFE channel is not boosted in the player due to a lack of sufficient bandwidth and to avoid clipping.


Both coaxial and optical digital outputs are digital bitstreams.

*Questions:*


Can lossless/uncompressed PCM be sent via either coaxial digital or optical digital coax?


If so, would a valid test be PCM via HDMI vs. PCM via optical or coaxial digital?


What about PCM via HDMI vs. PCM via Multi-Channel analog? Player DAC's notwithstanding which should not affect LFE volume.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The player sends the METHOD it was encoded on the disk [aka DD].
> 
> 
> REMEMBER the Pioneer has NO AUDIO Codecs internally to change anything.



My bad, I thought it had multi-channel analog audio outputs -- which would mean it had to have the DD decoder.


Well if you can't tell it to turn that test track into PCM then you can't use Avia to test for this.


---------------------------------------


The alternative is to play a Blu-Ray movie disc with a PCM track and compare bass output in an LFE heavy scene when playing the PCM track as opposed to playing the compatibility track either over HDMI or over optical cable.


If working correctly the SPL in the LFE heavy scenes should be close to identical. If the bug exists, the SPL in the LFE heavy scene would be 10dB down when played from the PCM track as compared to when played from the compatibility 5.1 track.

--Bob


----------



## 3Dfx




> Quote:
> My bad, I thought it had multi-channel analog audio outputs



If you're referring to the BDP-HD1, then yes, it has multi-channel analog outputs.


ps: I don't mean to hijack.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is my understanding correct, in that...
> 
> 
> PCM is a lossless, uncompressed, multi-channel audio mix.
> 
> 
> Dolby Digital is a compressed, lossy, digital bitstream.
> 
> 
> When PCM is sent over HDMI there may be an LFE bug with some processors. Specifically, the LFE channel is not boosted by 10 db in some processors/receivers.
> 
> 
> PCM can be sent via multi-channel analog outputs in the event HDMI is unavailable, in which case no -10 db bug exists.
> 
> 
> PCM via HDMI affords better sound quality vs. DD, as long as the -10 db PCM over HDMI bug does not exist.
> 
> 
> PCM via multi-channel analog relies on the players DAC's vs. those in the processor/receiver.
> 
> 
> The LFE channel is not boosted in the player due to a lack of sufficient bandwidth and to avoid clipping.
> 
> 
> Both coaxial and optical digital outputs are digital bitstreams.
> 
> *Questions:*
> 
> 
> Can lossless/uncompressed PCM be sent via either coaxial digital or optical digital coax?
> 
> 
> If so, would a valid test be PCM via HDMI vs. PCM via optical or coaxial digital?
> 
> 
> What about PCM via HDMI vs. PCM via Multi-Channel analog? Player DAC's notwithstanding which should not affect LFE volume.



CORRECTIONS:


* The 10dB low LFE bug can also exist over multi-channel analog. In fact if you are doing speaker configuration management with bass steering in the player, the correct boost needed is more likely to be 15dB in that case.


* "Bandwidth" in the player is not at issue. The boost isn't done in the player due to the possibility of clipping the signal sent to the AVR from the player.


ANSWERS:


* PCM audio tracks come in different numbers of channels and different bandwidths for a given number of channels. SPDIF connections (optical/coax digital audio connections) can handle a limited range of PCM. They can carry the 2-channel modest bandwidth PCM that you get when playing music CDs for example. But SPDIF connections can not carry the high bandwidth, multi-channel PCM that is used for the "lossless" audio tracks for HD-DVD and Blu-Ray. By the way, part of the limitation here is licensiing. These connection types are not licensed to carry that high bandwidth digital audio because, among other things, the connection is not copy protected.


* You won't get an LFE channel on a PCM signal over SPDIF connections. Think stereo when you think PCM over SPDIF. So no you can't test it the way you suggest. But you CAN compare multi-channel PCM over HDMI vs. DD5.1 over SPDIF. If things are being handled properly in the AVR, then the volume level of the LFE should be pretty close to identical for those two.


* PCM doesn't travel over the multi-channel analog connections. It is converted to analog audio signals. But I understand what you meant. If you play the PCM track from a Blu-Ray disc over HDMI and also over multi-channel analog, then the LFE volume level should be close to identical. Its a little tricky because the players usually have speaker volume controls for the multi-channel analog. But discovering that these two paths produce the same volume is not enough. The AVR may have the 10dB low LFE bug on both styles of input (HDMI and multi-channel analog). You need to compare against a DD5.1 or DTS5.1 bitstream track.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




Bob Pariseau said:


> My bad, I thought it had multi-channel analog audio outputs -- which would mean it had to have the DD decoder.
> 
> 
> Well if you can't tell it to turn that test track into PCM then you can't use Avia to test for this.
> 
> --Bob[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it does have 5.1 analog - out - but again - it only outputs
> 
> the 5.1 PCM to 5.1 Analog - so there are DACs but no codec.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




drhankz said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My bad, I thought it had multi-channel analog audio outputs -- which would mean it had to have the DD decoder.
> 
> 
> Well if you can't tell it to turn that test track into PCM then you can't use Avia to test for this.
> 
> --Bob[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it does have 5.1 analog - out - but again - it only outputs
> 
> the 5.1 PCM to 5.1 Analog - so there are DACs but no codec.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hank, look at the top line of the DVD-Video section in your chart. Look at the two entries at the far right of that line. Those are your two choices for playing a DD5.1 track from a standard DVD (such as the Avia disc) over HDMI.
> 
> 
> Thus if you set the player to "PCM" you will get a 5.1 PCM signal.
> 
> 
> If you set the player to "AUTO" you will get a DD5.1 bitstream.
> 
> 
> Those are precisely the two styles of audio we want to compare when playing that Avia test.
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...


----------



## drhankz




Bob Pariseau said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> If you set the player to "AUTO" you will get a DD5.1 bitstream.
> 
> 
> Those are precisely the two styles of audio we want to compare when playing that Avia test.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My PLAYER is set to AUTO so that I get exactly what is on the DVD.
> 
> 
> That is why the VIDEO is set to DIRECT - so that I get the video
> 
> straight from the DVD - without processing.
Click to expand...


----------



## 3Dfx




> Quote:
> But you CAN compare multi-channel PCM over HDMI vs. DD5.1 over SPDIF.



BR discs via multi-channel analog out using the "uncompressed" track sound MUCH better than the DD 5.1 track. There is a lot more bass and it's more detailed.


I thought the uncompressed track was PCM. Thanks for the clarification. Typically I'm given the choice between English Dolby Digital 5.1 and "Uncompressed". I choose uncompressed. Again, it sounds much better.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




drhankz said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> My PLAYER is set to AUTO so that I get exactly what is on the DVD.
> 
> 
> That is why the VIDEO is set to DIRECT - so that I get the video
> 
> straight from the DVD - without processing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hank, yes, "AUTO" is the correct setting for normal use. No argument.
> 
> 
> But for THIS test what we need is for you to temporarily change the setting to "PCM" and to compare LFE output levels that you get when playing the Avia test track in "AUTO" (as you have it now) with what you get when you switch temporarily to "PCM". If there's no bug in the D2 the LFE should measure the same both ways.
> 
> 
> What we are trying to do is to force the player to take this known, DD5.1, test track and send it as multi-channel PCM to the D2 so that we can see if the D2 handles the PCM version properly.
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...


----------



## drhankz




Bob Pariseau said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Those are precisely the two styles of audio we want to compare when playing that Avia test.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW - Bob - Just because it is in the chart does not mean
> 
> it exists [GRIN] - Since NONE of the CODEC Software is
> 
> turned on in this version of the FW - many many of the
> 
> items in the chart do not exist yet. They are INTENDED
> 
> to work as the chart says - SOME DAY IN THE FUTURE.
Click to expand...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BR discs via multi-channel analog out using the "uncompressed" track sound MUCH better than the DD 5.1 track. There is a lot more bass and it's more detailed.
> 
> 
> I thought the uncompressed track was PCM. Thanks for the clarification. Typically I'm given the choice between English Dolby Digital 5.1 and "Uncompressed". I choose uncompressed. Again, it sounds much better.



You CAN NOT MAKE that statement because you do not

have your Anthem yet to try uncompressed PCM over HDMI.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BR discs via multi-channel analog out using the "uncompressed" track sound MUCH better than the DD 5.1 track. There is a lot more bass and it's more detailed.
> 
> 
> I thought the uncompressed track was PCM. Thanks for the clarification. Typically I'm given the choice between English Dolby Digital 5.1 and "Uncompressed". I choose uncompressed. Again, it sounds much better.



The uncompressed track likely is PCM.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




drhankz said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> BTW - Bob - Just because it is in the chart does not mean
> 
> it exists [GRIN] - Since NONE of the CODEC Software is
> 
> turned on in this version of the FW - many many of the
> 
> items in the chart do not exist yet. They are INTENDED
> 
> to work as the chart says - SOME DAY IN THE FUTURE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okey doke. We'll have to test this using some other player.
> 
> 
> ==================================
> 
> 
> Right now we have one report of no problem when tested with a PS3 and one report of low LFE when tested with an Oppo 970.
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...


----------



## 3Dfx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You CAN NOT MAKE that statement because you do not
> 
> have your Anthem yet to try uncompressed PCM over HDMI.



You're right and I can hardly wait. But as I said, I did notice a difference between "Uncompressed" audio and DD5.1 both via multi-channel analog audio.


Is that due to the "Uncompressed" track being, well, uncompressed and the DD5.1 track being compressed and thus lossy?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You're right and I can hardly wait. But as I said, I did notice a difference between "Uncompressed" audio and DD5.1 both via multi-channel analog audio.
> 
> 
> Is that due to the "Uncompressed" track being, well, uncompressed and the DD5.1 track being compressed and thus lossy?



Yes - I will AGREE the 5.1 Analog is likely better than the DD Optical.


But JUST WAIT


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okey doke. We'll have to test this using some other player.
> 
> --Bob



BUT I THOUGHT the so called bug happened with DD?


DD is what I was receiving off the Avia.


As for PCM - all my Blu-Ray DVDs output uncompressed PCM

and that is way way way better than DD.


SO I AGREE WITH Nick


----------



## 3Dfx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes - I will AGREE the 5.1 Analog is likely better than the DD Optical.



Oh, I wasn't using DD5.1 via optical. Both were via multi-channel analog.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The uncompressed track likely is PCM.



That could explain it...I guess.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh, I wasn't using DD5.1 via optical. Both were via multi-channel analog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That could explain it...I guess.



Ya - I think the DD via 5.1 analog is down mixed to 2 ch as

shown in the chart.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh, I wasn't using DD5.1 via optical. Both were via multi-channel analog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That could explain it...I guess.



EVEN DO THIS with your current AVR.


Compare 5.1 Analog to Optical.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BUT I THOUGHT the so called bug happened with DD?
> 
> 
> DD is what I was receiving off the Avia.
> 
> 
> As for PCM - all my Blu-Ray DVDs output uncompressed PCM
> 
> and that is way way way better than DD.
> 
> 
> SO I AGREE WITH Nick



No, the bug doesn't happen with DD bitstreams. All the receivers and pre/pros handle DD bitstreams correctly.


The bug is only with regard to HDMI PCM or multi-channel analog.


We are using the Avia DD5.1 bitstream to generate multi-channel PCM for the test.


Again, the bug is that a faulty AVR fails to boost LFE by 10dB as it is supposed to when received over HDMI PCM or over multi-channel analog.


The DD decoding in the AVRs also includes a 10dB boost of LFE, but again, everyone gets that right. So we can use what happens with a DD bitstream for comparison.


What we we are attempting to do with the Avia test is to compare what happens when playing the DD5.1 bitstream off the disc and sending it AS a bitstream to the Anthem (the normal way of playing that test track) with what happens when the player is told to convert the DD5.1 bitstream into PCM 5.1 and hand the PCM to the Anthem over HDMI instead.


-----------------------------------


As I recall you have a Toshiba HD-DVD player that might be able to test this if you feel like giving it another go.

--Bob


----------



## 3Dfx

If I have this straight...


PCM is uncompressed digital.


DD5.1 is of course compressed digital.


PCM via multi-channel analog audio must first be converted to analog then passed to the processor as analog audio.


DD5.1 can also be output via multi-channel analog but again, is first converted to analog.


Conversion is not good.


If PCM is sent via HDMI it remains uncompressed digital (no digital to analog conversion) a good thing.


DD5.1 via HDMI also remains digital all the way but is still compressed. Not as good.


DD5.1 via SPDIF (either coax or optical) remains digital but again, is compressed.



I'm pedaling hard hoping my 40 Watt bulb will start to glow.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I have this straight...
> 
> 
> PCM is uncompressed digital.
> 
> 
> DD5.1 is of course compressed digital.
> 
> 
> PCM via multi-channel analog audio must first be converted to digital then passed to the processor as analog audio.
> 
> 
> DD5.1 can also be output via multi-channel analog but again, is first converted to analog.
> 
> 
> Conversion is not good.
> 
> 
> If PCM is sent via HDMI it remains uncompressed digital (no digital to analog conversion) a good thing.
> 
> 
> DD5.1 via HDMI also remains digital all the way but is still compressed. Not as good.



One typo: PCM (which is digital) is "converted to analog then passed..."


-------------------------------------------


Understand that conversion to analog has to happen someplace because that's the type of signal that goes to the amp and then to the speakers.


What you want to avoid is MULTIPLE conversions. E.g.:


1) Player converts PCM digital track to multi-channel analog for output to AVR.

2) AVR converts multi-channel analog input back to digital (PCM) for further processing.

3) AVR converts its internal PCM streams back to analog for output.


Also the process of Digital to Analog Conversion is one that is very VERY important for audio quality. The circuits that do this, called DACs, come in all sorts of quality levels. If your player has analog outputs then it has its own DACs. And of course the Anthem has DACs. You may have other source devices with their own DACs as well. Part of getting the best out of your audio system is trying to make sure that only the best quality DAC you own is used out of all the DACs you own.


When you send an analog signal to the Anthem, it is the player's DACs that you are hearing. When you send a digital signal to the Anthem it is the Anthem's DACs that you are hearing.

--Bob


----------



## 3Dfx

Got it. I noticed and corrected the typo before you posted by the way. You got the "old" copy.










I see now why PCM (uncompressed digital) is better than DD5.1 (compressed digital) when either is passed via HDMI.


The Anthem can work its magic and process digital data but simply passes analog audio through. In addition, uncompressed digital (PCM) is better than compressed (DD5.1) in this regard.


Thus PCM via HDMI is THE way to go.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Go a message today that my D2 is at the store - about 1 1/2 weeks after ordered. Pleasant surprise - instead of 2 1/2 weeks.
> 
> 
> larry



Looking forward to your review/comments on this beast Larry!


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, the bug doesn't happen with DD bitstreams. All the receivers and pre/pros handle DD bitstreams correctly.
> 
> 
> The bug is only with regard to HDMI PCM or multi-channel analog.
> 
> 
> We are using the Avia DD5.1 bitstream to generate multi-channel PCM for the test.
> 
> 
> Again, the bug is that a faulty AVR fails to boost LFE by 10dB as it is supposed to when received over HDMI PCM or over multi-channel analog.
> 
> 
> The DD decoding in the AVRs also includes a 10dB boost of LFE, but again, everyone gets that right. So we can use what happens with a DD bitstream for comparison.
> 
> 
> What we we are attempting to do with the Avia test is to compare what happens when playing the DD5.1 bitstream off the disc and sending it AS a bitstream to the Anthem (the normal way of playing that test track) with what happens when the player is told to convert the DD5.1 bitstream into PCM 5.1 and hand the PCM to the Anthem over HDMI instead.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> As I recall you have a Toshiba HD-DVD player that might be able to test this if you feel like giving it another go.
> 
> --Bob




Time for the newbie to quit lurking and learning, and attempt giving something back.


I have an Anthem AVM50 and a Denon 3939CI, a quick look at the manual indicates that I believe I should be able to complete this test over HDMI.


Tomorrow I have the house to myself, I will give it a try.

Brian


----------



## obie_fl

drhankz - Did you switch between PCM and Bitstream? What firmware?


----------



## Ted W

So I'm checking out a friend's theater tonight... we're watching LOTR on one of those Toshiba HD DVD players, upscaled to 1080 and playing through a Sony Ruby. It looked fantastic. Well, it looked more fantastic than I expected it to look with whatever cheapo chip is in there. More than watchable. So much so that I started to "get" the anti-HD argument that upscaled 480 looks "fine." But I'm not sure what the upper-limit "ultimate" performance should look like. I can only imagine what the Gennum chip is capable of. Has anyone with all the associated gear done a bake-off between upscaled DVD via the Gennnum and straight HD? Close? Identical?Clear difference?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz - Did you switch between PCM and Bitstream? What firmware?



NO I DID NOT.


I thought the hypothetical Problem was with DD - not PCM.


I have the BDP-HD1 set to AUTO so from Avia I get DD

and from Blu-Ray I get PCM. I don't want PCM when the

source is DD - because it down mixes DD to 2 CH PCM.


YUCK!


MY D2 FW is 1.11 - STANDARD release.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ted W* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So I'm checking out a friend's theater tonight... we're watching LOTR on one of those Toshiba HD DVD players, upscaled to 1080 and playing through a Sony Ruby. It looked fantastic. Well, it looked more fantastic than I expected it to look with whatever cheapo chip is in there. More than watchable. So much so that I started to "get" the anti-HD argument that upscaled 480 looks "fine." But I'm not sure what the upper-limit "ultimate" performance should look like. I can only imagine what the Gennum chip is capable of. Has anyone with all the associated gear done a bake-off between upscaled DVD via the Gennnum and straight HD? Close? Identical?Clear difference?



It will depend on the size and quality of your display, and how well the SD and HD transfer was done of the movie in question.


If your display is over 40", decently setup and calibrated, and the film to HD-disc transfer was done well, there is a CLEAR difference. I might add that the larger your display is, the closer you sit to the screen, and the better you setup and calibrate your display, the greater the difference.


The difference between the film to disc transfer quality is a big issue. An upconverted SD movie that was transferred well to disc can look very close to the HD version that was not transferred to disc well. So unfortunately, we still need to carefully research our HD disc purchases, because some are just not worth it, while the good ones are STUNNING!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Go a message today that my D2 is at the store - about 1 1/2 weeks after ordered. Pleasant surprise - instead of 2 1/2 weeks.
> 
> 
> larry




A few days of fun setting-up the beast. Please post your impression.


----------



## Tolstoi




Bob Pariseau said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hank, yes, "AUTO" is the correct setting for normal use. No argument.
> 
> 
> But for THIS test what we need is for you to temporarily change the setting to "PCM" and to compare LFE output levels that you get when playing the Avia test track in "AUTO" (as you have it now) with what you get when you switch temporarily to "PCM". If there's no bug in the D2 the LFE should measure the same both ways.
> 
> 
> What we are trying to do is to force the player to take this known, DD5.1, test track and send it as multi-channel PCM to the D2 so that we can see if the D2 handles the PCM version properly.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For testing it would be easier to change it back and forth on the fly.
Click to expand...


----------



## Tolstoi




Bob Pariseau said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okey doke. We'll have to test this using some other player.
> 
> 
> ==================================
> 
> 
> Right now we have one report of no problem when tested with a PS3 and one report of low LFE when tested with an Oppo 970.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did anybody tried the XA2.
Click to expand...


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> NO I DID NOT.
> 
> 
> I thought the hypothetical Problem was with DD - not PCM.
> 
> 
> I have the BDP-HD1 set to AUTO so from Avia I get DD
> 
> and from Blu-Ray I get PCM. I don't want PCM when the
> 
> source is DD - because it down mixes DD to 2 CH PCM.
> 
> 
> YUCK!
> 
> 
> MY D2 FW is 1.11 - STANDARD release.




Should we also be comparing DTS and PCM tracks?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Should we also be comparing DTS and PCM tracks?



I think that would work as well, but the trick is to know you are playing the same mix. Comparing the DTS "core" track against the PCM version is only going to be meaningful if you know the PCM and DTS track came from the same mix. That would be the case if the PCM track came from DTS-HD or DTS-HD MA, but of course right now theres no way to play PCM directily from DTS-HD MA. It would also work if the DTS compatibility track came from TrueHD (reduced in bandwidth and re-encoded as DTS in the player) as the Toshiba players do it.


Again, there may be some subtle differences in LFE SPL between these two version but there shouldn't be anywhere near as dramatic as a 10dB difference.


------------------------------------------------------


As to your other question, so far we've had no reports of testing for this using ANY of the Toshiba HD-DVD players. If you can give it a try, the Avia test should work from those and I believe you can also test this using the DTS compatibility track (i.e., send bitstream over HDMI while playing an HD-DVD disc) compared to playing TrueHD itself (i.e., send PCM over HDMI while playing the same disc's TrueHD track).


For the Avia test, use the LFE only portion of their pink noise sweep. Compare bitstream over HDMI vs PCM over HDMI. Note, the nose sent to each of the main speakers in turn should measure the same SPL both ways even if the LFE channel shows the bug when played via PCM. You can use this to confirm there is no strange volume difference in the player for bitstream vs PCM playback.


For the DTS compatibility vs TrueHD, measure any LFE heavy scene. Volume should not need to be adjusted, but, to be sure, SPL should be nearly the same in non LFE heavy scenes, so adjust volume in one of those for both playback methods as necessary and then see if SPL differs when you run through the LFE heavy scene.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi

I will perform the test on the XA2 tonight.


----------



## venpra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you still have the Velodyne S-video problem after installing V1.11g, please do let Nick know. They are actively working on that area of the software right now, so we might as well get this one nailed as well.
> 
> --Bob



Following is an e-mail that I sent to Nick this morning regarding the S-video issue that I was having with my Velodyne DD-18:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Nick,

I just installed firmware version 1.11g assuming that it may possibly have solved an issue I was having with my AVM-50.

*Issue (with original firmware version 1.11):*

I have an S-video cable connected to an AVM-50 input from my Velodyne DD-18 subwoofer for the OSD of the Velodyne user interface. I was depending on AVM-50 upscaling to convert this S-video input to HDMI to output to my TV, but I was unable to get any signal to my TV this way.

*Current State (with new firmware version 1.11g):*

Now, there is a video signal sent to the TV, but for some reason the image is split horizontally. Actually it is the same image displayed twice on horizontal split screens with parts of the image dropped off.


Hoping that you can find a rapid solution to this issue.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


----------



## sbwright

Completed testing this morning using a Denon 3930CI connected to the AVM 50 via HDMI cable playing the AVIA "Low Freq Sweep, LFE". The only change/adjustment made was to the Denon deck changing the HDMI Audio output from "Normal" to "LPCM".


If I have understood the manual correctly it indicates that for 5.1, Normal = Bitstream and LPCM = PCM.


I did not need an SPL meter to tell the difference, I could hear and FEEL the difference. The SPL meter indicated 8db difference not sure why it wasn't the exact 10db expected, maybe the meter or the room or ...


A check of the center channel on each selection indicated no difference in level.


Oh yah AVM 50 firmare is 1.06, can't find 1.10 to install and I currently have no problems that I am aware of so I do not want to risk 1.11.


If I have done it correctly more data for the grinder, otherwise have at me....


----------



## obie_fl

I hope to find some time this evening to further investigate my other sources and I will most likely upgrade to 1.11g and see if things change. Sbwright you should be able to verify on the Anthem that it is changing from PCM to bitstream. I believe it is the third or fourth OSD line when you push the status button. PCM will display the sampling rate and bitstream will show the data bit rate.


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I hope to find some time this evening to further investigate my other sources and I will most likely upgrade to 1.11g and see if things change. Sbwright you should be able to verify on the Anthem that it is changing from PCM to bitstream. I believe it is the third or fourth OSD line when you push the status button. PCM will display the sampling rate and bitstream will show the data bit rate.



obie


Tried the AVIA disk again same conditions.


On the "Normal" setting the status button on 3rd press indicated "448 Kbps"

On the "LPCM" setting ............................................................ ...... "6-ch 48 Khz"


Brian


----------



## TomHuffman

I just got an AVM40. I set it up for HDMI video and audio. I get the video fine, but I get no audio at all. Zero. Silent. Is there any special gotcha that I should know about. I'm a previous owner of the AVM30, so I'm familiar with the Anthem setup menu. I set the Input for HDMI Digital audio to no avail.


Any suggestions?


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got an AVM40. I set it up for HDMI video and audio. I get the video fine, but I get no audio at all. Zero. Silent. Is there any special gotcha that I should know about. I'm a previous owner of the AVM30, so I'm familiar with the Anthem setup menu. I set the Input for HDMI Digital audio to no avail.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?




Tom


Certainly no expert at this but others who are will likely want to know what sources you are attempting to use and did you try one of the other HDMI inputs?


I had the same problem with my Sat Rcvr where audio over HDMI was not supported so I have to use the Toslink.


Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> obie
> 
> 
> Tried the AVIA disk again same conditions.
> 
> 
> On the "Normal" setting the status button on 3rd press indicated "448 Kbps"
> 
> On the "LPCM" setting ............................................................ ...... "6-ch 48 Khz"
> 
> 
> Brian



The scoreboard at this point is (with one report each):


* LFE PROBLEM using Denon 3930CI and Avia test with Anthem V1.06 software.


* LFE PROBLEM using Oppo 970HD and Avia test with Anthem V1.10 software.


* NO LFE PROBLEM using PS3 and Avia test with original Anthem V1.11 software.


* Pioneer Blu-Ray player can not run the Avia test at the moment.


* Tosiba HD-DVD player tests pending.


* No reports one way or the other with attempts to test LFE while playing actually HD-DVD or Blu-Ray tracks both ways.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Completed testing this morning using a Denon 3930CI connected to the AVM 50 via HDMI cable playing the AVIA "Low Freq Sweep, LFE". The only change/adjustment made was to the Denon deck changing the HDMI Audio output from "Normal" to "LPCM".
> 
> 
> If I have understood the manual correctly it indicates that for 5.1, Normal = Bitstream and LPCM = PCM.
> 
> 
> I did not need an SPL meter to tell the difference, I could hear and FEEL the difference. The SPL meter indicated 8db difference not sure why it wasn't the exact 10db expected, maybe the meter or the room or ...
> 
> 
> A check of the center channel on each selection indicated no difference in level.
> 
> 
> Oh yah AVM 50 firmare is 1.06, can't find 1.10 to install and I currently have no problems that I am aware of so I do not want to risk 1.11.
> 
> 
> If I have done it correctly more data for the grinder, otherwise have at me....



Yup that sounds like the problem. The V1.06 software is old enough that Nick's comment that this has already been fixed probably refers to a change after that version.


The 8dB vs. 10dB anomaly might be due to one measure or the other being at the limit of the range for the particular range setting you used on the SPL meter. The SPL meter readings are not as accurate when the level being tested is at either end of the current range setting.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got an AVM40. I set it up for HDMI video and audio. I get the video fine, but I get no audio at all. Zero. Silent. Is there any special gotcha that I should know about. I'm a previous owner of the AVM30, so I'm familiar with the Anthem setup menu. I set the Input for HDMI Digital audio to no avail.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?



Tom, what source(s) and display are you using via HDMI?


I'm not familiar with how the AVM-40 is set up but on the AVM-50 there is an HDMI Repeater setting for each input that defaults to "YES" and should be changed to "NO". HDMI Repeater=NO keeps the source from interrogating the display through the Anthem. With HDMI Repeater=YES it is possible that the source might be mistakenly deciding to send no audio because of what it sees from the display.


Some sources need you to SEPARATELY enable HDMI audio output. For some sources this is in a special HDMI menu.


If those don't do it for you, it would probably be best to give Anthem a call, since there may very well be a setting difference on the AVM-40 that AVM-50 people in this thread won't know.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns

Conducted test this evening using Avia test disc. I have the Oppo 970. Running V1.10 on my AVM 50.


HDMI Audio setting set to "Auto" measured 78 db.

HDMI Audio setting set to "LPCM" measured 68 db.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> * Pioneer Blu-Ray player can not run the Avia test at the moment.
> 
> 
> --Bob




All Right Bob - your above statement got me ticked off [GRIN]!

*I just ran the tests AGAIN tonight with Avia in 2 players*.


1) I used a Toshiba HD DVD with DD output over HDMI.


2) I used a Toshiba HD DVD with PCM output over HDMI.


3) I used a Pioneer Blu-Ray with DD output over HDMI.


4) I used a Pioneer Blu-Ray with PCM output over HDMI.


On each of the 4 test cases - I verified via the D2 Status

display that the player was sending DD or PCM as I

configured the player to do.


My results are equal SPL Digital levels ± 1 db Across all

channels and the LFE Channel.


I see someone else tonight ran the tests with an OPPO

and found a 10 db drop-off.

Maybe it is time we POINT THE FINGER at the OPPO.

*I REPEAT My Statement there is NO LFE problem with the D2.*


----------



## abc999

Last night I tried the HD-a1 with the avia low frequency sweep via LFE channel using both the bitstream and PCM settings on the hdmi audio menu of the A1. When the test tone is around 60 hertz I quickly look at my spl meter. In both instances, they read 85 dB therefore it seems that there is no LFE bug present.


Does the speaker settings via HD-A1 affect the final PCM output? The reason I am asking is previously I set all of the channels to small and did the routinary level check via the player"s internal test tones to get proper speaker balance. I also did the distance setup. For some reason or another. I get weak LFE via the PCM option. When I set all of the speakers to Large and the distances to ZERO, crossover at 80 hertz(non defeatable), the LFE is the same as with bitstream and PCM.


If there is a static 60 hertz LFE signal via HD-dvd or BD, it would be easy to verify this problem.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does the speaker settings via HD-A1 affect the final PCM output? .



The Speaker settings only effect the 5.1 Analog Outputs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All Right Bob - your above statement got me ticked off [GRIN]!
> 
> *I just ran the tests AGAIN tonight with Avia in 2 players*.
> 
> 
> 1) I used a Toshiba HD DVD with DD output over HDMI.
> 
> 
> 2) I used a Toshiba HD DVD with PCM output over HDMI.
> 
> 
> 3) I used a Pioneer Blu-Ray with DD output over HDMI.
> 
> 
> 4) I used a Pioneer Blu-Ray with PCM output over HDMI.
> 
> 
> On each of the 4 test cases - I verified via the D2 Status
> 
> display that the player was sending DD or PCM as I
> 
> configured the player to do.
> 
> 
> My results are equal SPL Digital levels ± 1 db Across all
> 
> channels and the LFE Channel.
> 
> 
> I see someone else tonight ran the tests with an OPPO
> 
> and found a 10 db drop-off.
> 
> Maybe it is time we POINT THE FINGER at the OPPO.
> 
> *I REPEAT My Statement there is NO LFE problem with the D2.*



OK, so a motivated DRHANKZ found a way to run the test on the Pioneer Blu-Ray player. (grin!)


At this point we have 2 reports of a problem when tested using the Oppo 970 and one when tested using the Denon 3930CI. The Oppo results may be due to a problem in the Oppo -- which by the way, will affect people playing SACD or DVD-Audio via HDMI PCM from the Oppo -- which ALSO may explain why some folks are hearing SACD differences between the Oppo and the PS3 as discussed previously.


The Denon result may be due to Anthem software V1.06 since we don't know exactly when the fix Nick mentioned was released.


So far we have no problems reported from the PS3, the Pioneer Blu-Ray player, and DRHANKZ' Toshiba HD-DVD player (I believe he has the XA2).


ABC999 reported an early concern with the HD-A1 that may have been due to its speaker configuration stuff, or possibly a testing method problem, but the latest result shows no problem with the HD-A1.


----------------------------------------------------------------


This is looking better. DRHANKZ' bold(ed) statements may prove to be the final word on this.


When Tom gets a chance to retry the test with his new format players that will be significant because he has heard the problem with the Oppo. So if he has no problem with his new players that really will point the finger at the Oppo.


If someone with the Panasonic player would like to try this, that would be useful as well.


And if Tom finds the Oppo problem is the only problem, and that it still exists with V1.11g Anthem software, then the next step is to put the ball in Oppo Digital's court. With speaker configuration management and bass steering turned off in the Oppo, it should not be altering the PCM. And if it turns out it is, then that will reduce quality of SACD and DVD-Audio over HDMI PCM from the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Last night I tried the HD-a1 with the avia low frequency sweep via LFE channel using both the bitstream and PCM settings on the hdmi audio menu of the A1. When the test tone is around 60 hertz I quickly look at my spl meter. In both instances, they read 85 dB therefore it seems that there is no LFE bug present.
> 
> 
> Does the speaker settings via HD-A1 affect the final PCM output? The reason I am asking is previously I set all of the channels to small and did the routinary level check via the player"s internal test tones to get proper speaker balance. I also did the distance setup. For some reason or another. I get weak LFE via the PCM option. When I set all of the speakers to Large and the distances to ZERO, crossover at 80 hertz(non defeatable), the LFE is the same as with bitstream and PCM.
> 
> 
> If there is a static 60 hertz LFE signal via HD-dvd or BD, it would be easy to verify this problem.



The player should not be altering PCM output when you have set its speaker configuration management and bass steering stuff. Those settings should ONLY affect multi-channel analog output.


But if the player is mistakenly ALSO altering the PCM output then yes you will get low LFE. In fact it should be 15dB low. As explained in the thread previously cited in the audio theory forum, what happens is that the main channels have their base lowered by 15dB and the LFE channel is lowered an addition 5dB before all of that is added together in the player. The idea is to keep the sum of the real LFE channel and bass steered to the LFE channel from clipping. And thus the AVR has to boost the incoming LFE by 15dB to get it back to where it is supposed to be.


HOWEVER, this is not so nasty a problem because if the player is doing bass steering then the AVR should not ALSO be doing bass steering.


[NOTE: This is the default case for most AVRs. The Anthems are unusual in that they CAN do speaker configuration management, bass steering, and other processing even on the multi-channel analog audio input.]


And that means that you can deal with this by a boost of total subwoofer output in the AVR -- not just LFE boost -- because there is no bass steering in the AVR complicating things. So if the AVR boosts incoming LFE by 10dB (as it should by default), then you might also need to boost subwoofer output by 5dB more to get the proper mix.


Again, all of that is what's SUPPOSED to happen over multi-channel analog when the player is asked to do the bass steering, and when bass steering in the AVR is, therefor, turned off.


But if the player also does that for HDMI PCM then you've got a real problem, because the AVR is expecting to do the bass steering itself. And doing it twice is going to result in problems.


The net net here is that the A1 player may have a problem which can be worked around by disabling its bass steering stuff (setting speakers to large in the player) when using HDMI PCM output. The Oppo problem, apparently, is that the cut introduced by the player can not be eliminated simply by turning off its bass steering.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

OK I just updated my D2 firmware to 1.11g from 1.10. The Oppo LFE now reads within 2db when I switch from PCM to DD. *So the problem was the Anthem 1.10 firmware!!* If I get time this weekend I will run some more tests on my PS3, HD-A1 and 79AVi.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK I just updated my D2 firmware to 1.11g from 1.10. The Oppo LFE now reads within 2db when I switch from PCM to DD. *So the problem was the Anthem 1.10 firmware!!* If I get time this weekend I will run some more tests on my PS3, HD-A1 and 79AVi.



Cool! So the "fix" Nick mentioned must have come in after the original V1.11 (since it is supposed to be identical to V1.10) and before V1.11g. Or maybe they actually snuck in the fix as part of original V1.11 without telling anyone. I think our PS3 test (no LFE problem found) was running original V1.11, so the undocumented fix might actually be in there!


This renews my faith in the Oppo. But it does mean that folks using the Oppo for SACD or DVD-Audio playback over HDMI will hear improvement when they install new Anthem software.


Now if this is all true, that means anyone using V1.10 or older *SHOULD* be finding the low LFE problem. So far I don't think we have any contradictions to this.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Cool! So the "fix" Nick mentioned must have come in after the original V1.11 (since it is supposed to be identical to V1.10) and before V1.11g. Or maybe they actually snuck in the fix as part of original V1.11 without telling anyone. I think our PS3 test (no LFE problem found) was running original V1.11, so the undocumented fix might actually be in there!
> 
> 
> This renews my faith in the Oppo. But it does mean that folks using the Oppo for SACD or DVD-Audio playback over HDMI will hear improvement when they install new Anthem software.
> 
> 
> Now if this is all true, that means anyone using V1.10 or older *SHOULD* be finding the low LFE problem. So far I don't think we have any contradictions to this.
> 
> --Bob



What reasons still exist that would suggest that 1.10 versions should NOT be updated to ver 1.1g if the above is true. Are known issues restricted to specific equipment combinations?


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What reasons still exist that would suggest that 1.10 versions should NOT be updated to ver 1.1g if the above is true. Are known issues restricted to specific equipment combinations?
> 
> 
> Peter



V1.11g is not a public release so there may be some testing Anthem still has to complete on it. There may be a few surprises.


The V1.11g remaining problems reported here are:


* Velodyne DD series subwoofers and SMS-1 product user interface S-video not properly processed by Anthem scaler.


* Tivo S3 box still shows some HDMI issues apparently related to switching in and out of its 720p menus.


* V1.11f had some problems which caused RUDOLPHT to revert back to V1.11e. I don't know if he has stepped up to V1.11g yet, so I don't know if the V1.11f problems he was experiencing have been resolved by V1.11g.


As best I can recall, we've had no other reported issues with V1.11g. In particular, the firmware install problems and the 1080i/1080p problems that were the scariest aspect of the V1.10 and V1.11 software appear to have been resolved.


===================================


EDITED TO ADD:

* It's not known whether the 1080i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz film mode processing issue has been fixed. This problem exists in the V1.10 software as well of course. SFIELD was doing the most experimenting with this but I don't think he's stepped up to V1.11g yet.


* We had a few minor problems pending that may have been fixed but we've had no confirmation here. Again these are all problems that also exist in V1.10. For example, there's the issue of the Scale Out setting changing unexpectedly for the input selected on power up. And there's the issue of not being able to use Simulcast via the remote because holding the source input button causes the Anthem to switch to the next overlayed input. And then there's Bluemark81's report that he was getting subwoofer output unexpectedly from a Music configuration where he had disabled the subwoofer. And the problem with Comcast HD over HDMI sometimes triggering letter boxing improperly in the Anthem. Again, none of this is reason to avoid V1.11g, even if not fixed, because the problems also exist in V1.10.

--Bob


----------



## toehring

As a newb to this forum, is there any particular reason I should not purchase the D2? I read a lot hours of posts about the problems people had with it over the past year but it seems those have slowly gone away. Any concerns with the current release?


Any recommendations on a different pre/pro for someone who is 70/30 HT/Music?


I'm currently running a Rotel 1068 pre/pro which sounds great with the new LG combo player running in bitstream. Potentially my systemcould sound better on the D2 (according to the posts on the Anthem thread about the quality of sound).


I've considered spending the additional funds for the Krell Evo 707 but can't find any commentary justifying the additional expense especially considering the video quality of the D2. Maybe I'm missing something.


Thanks in advance for the input.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *toehring* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As a newb to this forum, is there any particular reason I should not purchase the D2? I read a lot hours of posts about the problems people had with it over the past year but it seems those have slowly gone away. Any concerns with the current release?
> 
> 
> Any recommendations on a different pre/pro for someone who is 70/30 HT/Music?
> 
> 
> I'm currently running a Rotel 1068 pre/pro which sounds great with the new LG combo player running in bitstream. Potentially my systemcould sound better on the D2 (according to the posts on the Anthem thread about the quality of sound).
> 
> 
> I've considered spending the additional funds for the Krell Evo 707 but can't find any commentary justifying the additional expense especially considering the video quality of the D2. Maybe I'm missing something.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for the input.



There are really no deal-breakers regarding the D2 at this point. And Anthem tech support is very responsive whenever issues crop up for individual users.


You need to understand that the D2 is an HDMI V1.1 device and will not become HDMI V1.3 without a hardware change.


Similarly, it is limited to 5.1 channel input on both HDMI and analog inputs (either of which it will process up to 7.1 speaker output). Again this can't change without a hardware change.


I would assert that neither of these are limitations you need worry about, but they should be on the table.


Get it. You won't regret it.

--Bob


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Now if this is all true, that means anyone using V1.10 or older *SHOULD* be finding the low LFE problem. So far I don't think we have any contradictions to this.



How does one explain drhankz's case where everything but the oppo seemed to work ok? If all the players are -10db coming in on the LFE channel something doesn't add up. What firmware revs were used on the oppos? I have a 970HD with the first production rev of the firmware. It will be interesting to see if it behaves differently with the newer D2 firmware.


----------



## thebland

Just a thought...AVIA is recorded 10 db hot on all channels (85 db) I am not sure if this would effect things. I use DVE for calibration (@ 75 db).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a thought...AVIA is recorded 10 db hot on all channels (85 db) I am not sure if this would effect things. I use DVE for calibration (@ 75 db).



Hi Jeff


I agree above Avia versus DVE.


But we were not trying to calibrate our sound levels.


We were trying to find a 10 db drop-off in the LFE Channel.


As long as all the channels are recorded at the SAME level.

We don't care what the reference level is.


----------



## obie_fl

I guess I should also add that I am running the latest Oppo beta (4A-0209) on the 970HD. Hopefully I will get a chance to check my other sources this weekend.


btw Anyone with the 970 and the latest beta firmware checkout the Beatles - Love DVD-A. Even though Oppo says they haven't fixed anything my Love DVD-A plays correctly with the latest beta.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How does one explain drhankz's case where everything but the oppo seemed to work ok? If all the players are -10db coming in on the LFE channel something doesn't add up. What firmware revs were used on the oppos? I have a 970HD with the first production rev of the firmware. It will be interesting to see if it behaves differently with the newer D2 firmware.



DRHANKZ does not own an Oppo. He was simply referring to other poster's tests with the Oppo, but so far those tests show the Oppo only yields a problem if the Anthem software is V1.10 or older.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a thought...AVIA is recorded 10 db hot on all channels (85 db) I am not sure if this would effect things. I use DVE for calibration (@ 75 db).



You could use either one.


What you are comparing is what the Anthem produces when handed the DD5.1 bitstream over HDMI from that disc with what the Anthem produces when handed 5.1 PCM over HDMI from that disc (DD 5.1 converted to PCM in the player). However the disc was recorded, these two methods should yield the same SPL from the AVR (the Anthem in our case). The absolute level recorded on the disc doesn't matter.


If the low LFE bug is present, the mains will show the same SPL both ways but the PCM version of the LFE will measure 10dB low compared to the DD5.1 version of the LFE. If the low LFE bug is not present, the mains and LFE will each, individually, measure the same SPL both ways.

--Bob


----------



## PooperScooper

Ok. Now it makes sense. And no real testing was done prior to the D2 bug fix.


larry


----------



## mr_fitz

Just want to say thanks to everyone here for all the information provided in this thread, I am pleased to say that I just placed my order for my D2










Hopefully it won't take too long to get.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just want to say thanks to everyone here for all the information provided in this thread, I am pleased to say that I just placed my order for my D2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully it won't take too long to get.



Welcome to the silly grins and hopping up and down in glee club!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just in case, I just checked again and the V1.11 D2 software installer on the Anthem web site is still the original V1.11 stuff from back on November 24 last year.


This is as expected. But newbies reading this thread should note that the test versions we are talking about -- such as V1.11g -- are only available as email direct from Anthem tech support. Even if you get a new unit today, the odds are the factory installed software will still be the original V1.11 version. However Anthem tech support seems to be quite willing to send out copies of V1.11g on request if you have a need for it.


Right now we aren't entirely sure exactly when the low LFE bug fix might have been released. Apparently it is not included in V1.10. One test indicates it might be in the original V1.11. It seems pretty certain at this point that it is, at least, in the latest test version, V1.11g.


V1.11g also includes significant fixes over V1.10 and the original V1.11 that have been discussed at length over the past few months. The most important fixes are related to installation failures and to device specific video problems, some quite severe. If you have these problems it will be obvious, and odds are you are already in touch with Anthem -- and have most likely already been offered the test software. If your video appears to be working pretty much correctly then odds are you can wait for the "test" software to be finished and turned into a public release. It is not known how close Anthem is getting to turning this into their next public software release -- likely to be named V1.12 or possibly even V1.20.


However, folks with V1.10 will be wondering if updating to the original, public V1.11 version might be a good idea due to this "low LFE" bug now under discussion.


If you already have V1.10 installed, I don't think you will encounter any NEW problems installing the original V1.11 on top of it. The notes for V1.11 only admitted to a change in the way the installer application itself worked. Thus my surprise that it may turn out the original V1.11 also included the "low LFE" fix. Perhaps with a few more testers posting here we will be able to nail down whether or not this fix REALLY showed up in the ORIGINAL V1.11 or only in one of the test versions that followed.


If you currently have V1.06 installed, be aware that attempting to install the original V1.11 may lead to problems either during the install itself or in trying to run video from some source devices after the install. For you folks, it might be better to wait for the next public release or to request the latest V1.11 test software from Anthem tech support. If you still have a V1.06 install kit, it is possible to revert to V1.06 if you try V1.11 and find you are one of the 10% or so who have a problem. Alternatively, you can go forward instead by getting V1.11g or later from Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball

I think you nailed it correctly Bob. This is still the best composite value and experience I believe available on the market today. I am doubfounded that competitors have still not clued in. I believe that part of the challenge is that the generational jump forward in listening and visual competence is still sinking in for many of us with each Anthem response to our concerns.


Peter


----------



## pclausen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You need to understand that the D2 is an HDMI V1.1 device and will not become HDMI V1.3 without a hardware change.
> 
> 
> Similarly, it is limited to 5.1 channel input on both HDMI and analog inputs (either of which it will process up to 7.1 speaker output). Again this can't change without a hardware change.



Any rumors as when such a hardware change might take place? Will it be later this year in the form of a minor upgrade, or later in the form of the D3, AVM50 Mark II, or something like that?


I don't really care about 1.3, but I would like discrete 7.1 support sooner rather than (much?) later...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pclausen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would like discrete 7.1 support sooner rather than (much?) later...



WHY?


----------



## pclausen

Well, I would like to think that we'll be seeing more HD/Blu-ray titles with 7.1 soundtracks, as well PS3 games with same. Based what was stated a few pages back, the D2/AVM50 does an excellent job creating the rear 2 channels from 5.1 sources, but wouldn't a true 7.1 track be even better?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pclausen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I would like to think that we'll be seeing more HD/Blu-ray titles with 7.1 soundtracks, as well PS3 games with same. Based what was stated a few pages back, the D2/AVM50 does an excellent job creating the rear 2 channels from 5.1 sources, but wouldn't a true 7.1 track be even better?



In theory - OF COURSE.


But only time will tell you if anyone can actually

tell the difference sitting in their own theater.


I'm using the D2 to generate 7.1 from the 5.1

source material. It is Specular. I honestly doubt

7.1 in and 7.1 out - SOMEDAY will be good enough

for ME to hear the difference.


As for today - there are no 7.1 sound tracks that
*I know about*. Now I'm sure someone will jump in

here and say - YES THEY KNOW OF ONE










It is much like the HDMI version 1.3 DEEP COLOR

issue. The MAJOR Blu-Ray Studios have been testing

DEEP COLOR using HDMI version 1.3. They have

yet to find a HUMAN in any BLIND test that can

detect the difference.


Sure it is BETTER - but if our eyes are not good enough

to see the difference - WHO CARES? The Same can hold

true for EARS


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pclausen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any rumors as when such a hardware change might take place? Will it be later this year in the form of a minor upgrade, or later in the form of the D3, AVM50 Mark II, or something like that?
> 
> 
> I don't really care about 1.3, but I would like discrete 7.1 support sooner rather than (much?) later...



The latest report we have is a reply they sent FILM MIXER. The implication is that it isn't going to happen any time soon -- basically for the reasons DRHANKZ has given.


My guess is that you won't see 7.1 input from Anthem over the next year. My other guess would be that it would only happen on a new product release rather than a minor upgrade of the D2.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pclausen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I would like to think that we'll be seeing more HD/Blu-ray titles with 7.1 soundtracks, as well PS3 games with same. Based what was stated a few pages back, the D2/AVM50 does an excellent job creating the rear 2 channels from 5.1 sources, but wouldn't a true 7.1 track be even better?



So if you are NOT ALREADY a HAPPY D2 Owner.


GET HAPPY REAL SOON!


No Need to WAIT - JOIN the







Crowd


----------



## abc999

Oviously if the dolby trueHD 5.1 track is available in the HD-dvd disc it will be the option of choice. It will register at the AVM50 display as a 5.1 audio source. If you have a 6.1 or a 7.1 system, what ADDITIONAL processing mode is needed for the back speakers to work WITHOUT altering the sonic quality of the original trueHD track?


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Will it be later this year in the form of a minor upgrade



That would not be a "minor" upgrade and imo would not be worth the price for many of the reasons stated above.

DPLIIx does such a great job that really only remixing or recording soundtracks natively in 7.1 could yield any improvement and that would require a new codec from Dolby etal., in any event.

Wait, isn't TrueHD capable of 8 channels? Or am I confusing that with HDMI's ability to carry 8 channels.

But it's nice to dream!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pclausen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I would like to think that we'll be seeing more HD/Blu-ray titles with 7.1 soundtracks, as well PS3 games with same. Based what was stated a few pages back, the D2/AVM50 does an excellent job creating the rear 2 channels from 5.1 sources, but wouldn't a true 7.1 track be even better?



I can say I do hear a difference in DTS 6.1 discrete material over DTS 5.1. I think we all want discrete everything. I would like it sooner rather than later but my "lust for DTS-ES discrete was ... unsatisfied. Hopefully content production will get better, but for now the fuller sounds in the 5.1 range is a much more tangeable benefit than lower bitrate 5.1 + a discrete rear.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just want to say thanks to everyone here for all the information provided in this thread, I am pleased to say that I just placed my order for my D2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully it won't take too long to get.



Welcome to the club where 'membership' definitely has its privileges and the only downside is learning to relate to anyone who does not own a D2!!!!


Peter


----------



## Hunter67

IMO, true 7.1 sound is pretty much a marketing gimmick as much as needing HDMI 1.3 to get TrueHD, DTS MA, PCM etc.


6.1 discrete is more then enough for the action/adventure type movies, does anyone think we really need DUAL DISCRETE back surrounds? That's complete overkill! It's akin to movies using too many digital special effects lately; just because they can make practially anything up with computers doesn't mean they should.


So, for an average size room 5.1 is perfect, if a room is large enough then 5.1/6.1 + Ultra2/PLIIx helps fill the gaps.


Thanks for the soapbox


----------



## akopperl

I just received a new AVM-50 (to replace a defective unit). When I went to connect the power cord, I saw that it had a 3 prong plug and on the end that connects to the processor - there were 3 slots. This surprised me because my original unit only had a 2 prong power cord. Also, the rear of the AVM-50 only has 2 prongs. I also have the A5 amp which has a 2 prong plug.


Is it safe to connect this power cord to the AVM-50?


Thanks


----------



## 3no

My D2 just arrived







, but I am having major problems setting up the HDMI inputs (I assume it's cockpit error, anyway)







. I'll call Nick tomorrow morning, but hoped that someone here could lead me down the right path this evening.


Configuration:

Output to Ruby at 1080p/60 via HDMI

Inputs:

PS3 via HDMI, 1080p/60

HD-A1 via HDMI, 1080p/60

HTPC (6600GT) via DVI-->HDMI

Moto 3412 DVR via component


The only input that works well is the DVR, and it is connected via component due to the handshake delay issues noted elsewhere in this thread.


The PS3 is a disaster. Handshake every 5-10 seconds, regardless of whether playing a BD or just displaying menus. Occasional "HDMI Device Error" messages. Tried changing the audio to optical to make sure it was video problems, not HDMI audio. Swapped HDMI cables with the HD-A1 as it doesn't exhibit this problem. Tried HDMI repeater both ways. Nothing helps.


The HD-A1 works OK until I switch to a different input, but never comes back when I reselect it. No video, no audio. Power cycle the D2 and it comes back. Tried HDMI repeater both ways.


The PC acts like its not getting correct (any?) EDID data as it boots up with a low resolution output. If I change the resolution to 1920x1080 it works perfectly until I switch to another input, then never comes back when I reselect it. May be a PC side problem, but how does one get the D2 to feed display data to the PC to keep it happy even when not selected? Am I the only one using a PC to feed a D2 via DVI/HDMI?


I updated the firmware to 1.11g before installing, as Nick had told me in a presales call that I would need it for CH vertical stretch, so all the above has only been tried on 11g.


I'll take any suggestions or shots in the dark. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just received a new AVM-50 (to replace a defective unit). When I went to connect the power cord, I saw that it had a 3 prong plug and on the end that connects to the processor - there were 3 slots. This surprised me because my original unit only had a 2 prong power cord. Also, the rear of the AVM-50 only has 2 prongs. I also have the A5 amp which has a 2 prong plug.
> 
> 
> Is it safe to connect this power cord to the AVM-50?
> 
> 
> Thanks



It's safe, but typically the device end of a 3-prong cord has a distinct shape that won't fit in the hole intended for a 2-prong cord.


If what you have fits, its OK to use it for now, but you should call Anthem and get a proper replacement so that you don't ever get confused as to whether the AVM-50 is actually 3-prong or 2-prong in the future. Also Anthem needs to know that someone goofed on the pack out for this box.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Output to Ruby at 1080p/60 via HDMI



Since I assume your Ruby is not next to your D2 - the

problem could be as simple as your HDMI cable. At 1080p

the Cable from the D2 to the RUBY needs to be Capable

of 1080p at that distance. That usually translates into

a VERY HIGH QUALITY CABLE.


A lot of HDMI problems are cable related.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since I assume your Ruby is not next to your D2 - the
> 
> problem could be as simple as your HDMI cable. At 1080p
> 
> the Cable from the D2 to the RUBY needs to be Capable
> 
> of 1080p at that distance. That usually translates into
> 
> a VERY HIGH QUALITY CABLE.
> 
> 
> A lot of HDMI problems are cable related.



That's a good thought. Just tried to validate by changing the D2 output to 1080i. No improvement. Changed the PS3 output to 1080i. No improvement. Verified both really 1080i on the D2 status screen. The screen shows the PS3 input as RGB. Is that normal?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My D2 just arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I am having major problems setting up the HDMI inputs (I assume it's cockpit error, anyway)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'll call Nick tomorrow morning, but hoped that someone here could lead me down the right path this evening.
> 
> 
> Configuration:
> 
> Output to Ruby at 1080p/60 via HDMI
> 
> Inputs:
> 
> PS3 via HDMI, 1080p/60
> 
> HD-A1 via HDMI, 1080p/60
> 
> HTPC (6600GT) via DVI-->HDMI
> 
> Moto 3412 DVR via component
> 
> 
> The only input that works well is the DVR, and it is connected via component due to the handshake delay issues noted elsewhere in this thread.
> 
> 
> The PS3 is a disaster. Handshake every 5-10 seconds, regardless of whether playing a BD or just displaying menus. Occasional "HDMI Device Error" messages. Tried changing the audio to optical to make sure it was video problems, not HDMI audio. Swapped HDMI cables with the HD-A1 as it doesn't exhibit this problem. Tried HDMI repeater both ways. Nothing helps.
> 
> 
> The HD-A1 works OK until I switch to a different input, but never comes back when I reselect it. No video, no audio. Power cycle the D2 and it comes back. Tried HDMI repeater both ways.
> 
> 
> The PC acts like its not getting correct (any?) EDID data as it boots up with a low resolution output. If I change the resolution to 1920x1080 it works perfectly until I switch to another input, then never comes back when I reselect it. May be a PC side problem, but how does one get the D2 to feed display data to the PC to keep it happy even when not selected? Am I the only one using a PC to feed a D2 via DVI/HDMI?
> 
> 
> I updated the firmware to 1.11g before installing, as Nick had told me in a presales call that I would need it for CH vertical stretch, so all the above has only been tried on 11g.
> 
> 
> I'll take any suggestions or shots in the dark. Thanks in advance.



I take it you have good solid video at 1080p/60Hz to the Ruby when using no source video input at all and just displaying the Anthem's own Setup menu and the Anthem's own Test Patterns from the Video Source Adjust menu. Correct? If that's not solid then you need to concentrate on that *FIRST* before tackling any source device issues. [See the video setup post linked off the first post of this thread if you need help with doing this.] So I'll assume your output side video is good to go. Let's look at source device stuff.


First lets eliminate the cables as the problem. Set all of your 1080p inputs to 1080i temporarily and try again. It is possible that your HDMI cables are adequate for standard HDTV stuff but can not handle the bandwidth for both 1080p and high bandwidth audio.


Here's some other stuff to look at:


Set HDMI Repeater=NO for each Anthem input you are using and leave it that way. Be aware that if you have set up any overlayed inputs (i.e., DVD1/DVD2/DVD3/DVD4) that you need to do this for EACH of them.


Also go into the Setup / Source Select menu and "disable" any overlayed inputs that you do NOT intend to use so that you don't select them by accident.


The Video Source Adjust menu Output panel should have Frame Lock = OFF for each of your inputs. Again you will need to check this for each input separately.


If 1080i fixes the problems from the PS3 and the A1 then you may just need to upgrade your cables.


If you still have problems using 1080i input from the PS3 and the HD-A1, and after checking the settings I mentioned here, then you will likely need to work the issue with Anthem.


Meanwhile the HTPC stuff could very well be EDID related. We've had several reports here that the Gefen DVI Detective product is very helpful getting around such issues.


I'd concentrate on getting the commercial source devices working first, and then if you still have problems with the HTPC, work that with Anthem tech support as a separate issue.

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I take it you have good solid video at 1080p/60Hz to the Ruby when using no source video input at all and just displaying the Anthem's own Setup menu and the Anthem's own Test Patterns from the Video Source Adjust menu. Correct?



I do




> Quote:
> Set all of your 1080p inputs to 1080i temporarily and try again. It is possible that your HDMI cables are adequate for standard HDTV stuff but can not handle the bandwidth for both 1080p and high bandwidth audio.



Done. Also set the output to the Ruby to 1080i, just in case.




> Quote:
> Set HDMI Repeater=NO for each Anthem input you are using and leave it that way.



Done




> Quote:
> Be aware that if you have set up any overlayed inputs (i.e., DVD1/DVD2/DVD3/DVD4) that you need to do this for EACH of them. Also go into the Setup / Source Select menu and "disable" any overlayed inputs that you do NOT intend to use so that you don't select them by accident.



Pulled all overlay inputs (DVD2, DVD3) and disabled them (and all other overlays) so the only inputs left with video input are the PS3 on HDMI1 and the DVR on Component1.




> Quote:
> The Video Source Adjust menu Output panel should have Frame Lock = OFF for each of your inputs. Again you will need to check this for each input separately.



Done.



No change. The PS3 continues to rehandshake every 5-10 seconds.


Tried pulling the PS3 and plugging the HD-A1 into that same HDMI input. No continuous handshake problems, but if I switch away and back the signal never comes back.


Tried pulling the HD-A1 and plugging the DVR into that same HDMI input. No continuous handshake problem. No problem switching away and back. Even changed the D2 output to the Ruby to 1080p and it continues to work.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

3no,

OK, the only other thing I can suggest is that you verify you have the latest firmware on the PS3 and the A1. The PS3 in particular has had firmware upgrades that address HDMI problems. I'm not sure what the situation is with the A1.


If that doesn't do it for you then I think you are going to have to work this with Anthem tech support.


---------------------------------------------


One other thought: You upgraded to V1.11g. Were there any unusual messages during the software install?

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 3no,
> 
> OK, the only other thing I can suggest is that you verify you have the latest firmware on the PS3 and the A1. The PS3 in particular has had firmware upgrades that address HDMI problems. I'm not sure what the situation is with the A1.



I do for both.




> Quote:
> One other thought: You upgraded to V1.11g. Were there any unusual messages during the software install?



No




> Quote:
> If that doesn't do it for you then I think you are going to have to work this with Anthem tech support.



Bob- Thanks for your well thought-out diagnostic help (also drhankz). Having been through the steps discussed here should make the conversation with Nick more straightforward.


----------



## 3no

And having waded though most of this thread for the past month or so, I just want to get the basics working so I can spend the next month on tweaking audio and video performance with all I've learned here.


I also just upgraded my sub to a DD15 (not yet installed - I know there are video issues with the DD15-->D2) so I can tweak bass performance for another month.


Maybe squeeze in a movie now and then.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And having waded though most of this thread for the past month or so, I just want to get the basics working .



I'm sorry you are not having better luck with your new D2.


I'm not sure why Nick would have recommended a software

upgrade from the start. Your equipment doesn't seem to need

special new fixes - except for your sub which is not even hooked

up yet.


I assume your D2 came with 1.11 installed. It probably would

have worked perfectly out of the box. Mine is running 1.11 with

very similar equipment and I can't find anything wrong.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm sorry you are not having better luck with your new D2.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why Nick would have recommended a software
> 
> upgrade from the start. Your equipment doesn't seem to need
> 
> special new fixes - except for your sub which is not even hooked
> 
> up yet.
> 
> 
> I assume your D2 came with 1.11 installed. It probably would
> 
> have worked perfectly out of the box. Mine is running 1.11 with
> 
> very similar equipment and I can't find anything wrong.



Nick recommended the firmware upgrade to get the vertical stretch I need for Constant Height with my anamorphic lens. Apparently the released 1.11 doesn't have that capability.


You make a good point though. I will revert to 1.11 (released) from the Anthem website and see how that behaves with my problem input devices.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick recommended the firmware upgrade to get the vertical stretch I need for Constant Height with my anamorphic lens. Apparently the released 1.11 doesn't have that capability.
> 
> 
> You make a good point though. I will revert to 1.11 (released) from the Anthem website and see how that behaves with my problem input devices.



Interesting. The Custom Crop and Anamorphic Scale features in V1.11 seem to work just fine and should handle your CH requirements. We haven't had any bug reports in this thread that would indicate a problem. Perhaps they added a feature in V1.11g to make the setup of CH easier. And of course Nick sees more problem reports than we do.

--Bob


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick recommended the firmware upgrade to get the vertical stretch I need for Constant Height with my anamorphic lens. Apparently the released 1.11 doesn't have that capability.
> 
> 
> You make a good point though. I will revert to 1.11 (released) from the Anthem website and see how that behaves with my problem input devices.



Also remember to check your HDMI cables. I've found (and many others) that HDMI cables are very fickel.


dc


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick recommended the firmware upgrade to get the vertical stretch I need for Constant Height with my anamorphic lens. Apparently the released 1.11 doesn't have that capability.
> 
> 
> You make a good point though. I will revert to 1.11 (released) from the Anthem website and see how that behaves with my problem input devices.



Both problems (PS3 continuous handshake, HD-A1 won't reconnect) remain unchanged with the production 1.11. Time to call Nick.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also remember to check your HDMI cables. I've found (and many others) that HDMI cables are very fickel.
> 
> 
> dc



I agree that is certainly a reasonable (likely?) possibility, so I have checked with what I have - swapping one cable for another (identical) cable, and swapping input devices on the suspect cable. Both cables behave the same, and the other input device (DVR) worked well with both cables. That's far from conclusive, but I don't have another cable to try at the moment.


BTW, the cables are 3' long Blue Jeans Cable HDMI Series-2, 24AWG, claimed good to 50' at 1080p, and I am only pushing 1080i thru them while diagnosing this problem.


----------



## cobracalde

This is my situation..


After installing 1.11g firmware, i have random HDCP errors (video muted), no signal (audio and video) on Toshiba HD-DVD or only video signal (no audio).


After some operations (in contact with Nick of Anthem): power on, power off, HDMI disconnect, connect... another disaster.... now no HDMI output and input from D2, only component.


Is't possible a hardware failure? or a compatibility problem with my TV LCD (i'm waiting my new projector 1080p, Epson TW1000)?


Can i install an old firmware version?


Help!!!


Sorry for my poor english..


Stefano

Italy


----------



## Joe C5

3no and cobracalde

I have the Toshiba HD-A1 and the HD-XA2. The A1 in my case does not play well with the D2 (hence the XA2 - which I have had no trouble with). I was able to get the A1 to work most of the time, but it was a pain to get it to sync up. Others I believe have strangely not had issues with the A1 (on the D2). I suspect that it is all a problem with the A1, but since it works reasonably well directly into a TV, I doubt Toshiba has much incentive to fix the issues until more folks have HDMI switched through a processor. I'm sure Anthem can/will come up with a solution for the A1, but it will require someone to work closely with them. Nick can have my A1 if he wants it









cobracalde, I would try resetting to factory defaults and disconnecting power to the d2 for a couple of minutes to completely reset it. As mentioned in the link at the front for upgrading, you should do this each time you change the software.


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> cobracalde, I would try resetting to factory defaults and disconnecting power to the d2 for a couple of minutes to completely reset it. As mentioned in the link at the front for upgrading, you should do this each time you change the software.



Thanks Joe.


Ummm.... a couple of minutes... ? only few seconds... (plug out -> plug in)..


Maybe... i can try...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 3no and cobracalde
> 
> I have the Toshiba HD-A1 and the HD-XA2. The A1 in my case does not play well with the D2



I have the Toshiba HD-A1 since March 2006. It is the earliest

build version Toshiba produced. Since installing FW 2.0 in

the HD-A1 back in September 2006 - all the HDMI problems

have gone away.


It works perfectly with my D2 running 1.11.


It even worked perfectly with 1.06 which is what my D2

originally came with. I know there are a lot more D2 owners

using the HD-A1 with no problem.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the Toshiba HD-A1 since March 2006. It is the earliest
> 
> build version Toshiba produced. Since installing FW 2.0 in
> 
> the HD-A1 back in September 2006 - all the HDMI problems
> 
> have gone away.
> 
> 
> It works perfectly with my D2 running 1.11.
> 
> 
> It even worked perfectly with 1.06 which is what my D2
> 
> originally came with. I know there are a lot more D2 owners
> 
> using the HD-A1 with no problem.



drhankz- if you are playing a disk on the HD-A1 and switch the D2 input away from the HD-A1, then back to the HD-A1 after a brief period, what happens?


In my system the HD-A1 stops on loss of HDMI connection (message displayed), then when I reselect the HD-A1 it displays "HDMI ERROR 1" on the front panel and will not complete the handshake.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz- if you are playing a disk on the HD-A1 and switch the D2 input away from the HD-A1, then back to the HD-A1 after a brief period, what happens?
> 
> 
> In my system the HD-A1 stops on loss of HDMI connection (message displayed), then when I reselect the HD-A1 it displays "HDMI ERROR 1" on the front panel and will not complete the handshake.



Yes - IF I STOP a HD DVD movie and Switch Away to

some other HDMI device - the Toshiba does stop.


When I switch back everything is fine. I believe the MOVIE

in process does start from the beginning again. That is the

Toshiba doing that not the D2.


As for the Toshiba getting a HDMI error - it did do that often

BEFORE the FW update on the Toshiba to Version 2.0. I

know Bob asked you that question before and you said you

were up to date.


My Pioneer BDP-HD1 works even better - you can pause a

movie and switch away and come back and continue the

movie from where you left off. Again - that is a Pioneer

behavior not the D2.


HDMI Repeater in the D2 is set to OFF for both devices.

I know you said you had the overlays turned off - but

I HATE THAT NEW FEATURE of 1.11. It causes more problems

than benefits. I never have more than one function per

button turned on.


----------



## venpra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *venpra* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Following is an e-mail that I sent to Nick this morning regarding the S-video issue that I was having with my Velodyne DD-18:
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nick,
> 
> I just installed firmware version 1.11g assuming that it may possibly have solved an issue I was having with my AVM-50.
> 
> *Issue (with original firmware version 1.11):*
> 
> I have an S-video cable connected to an AVM-50 input from my Velodyne DD-18 subwoofer for the OSD of the Velodyne user interface. I was depending on AVM-50 upscaling to convert this S-video input to HDMI to output to my TV, but I was unable to get any signal to my TV this way.
> 
> *Current State (with new firmware version 1.11g):*
> 
> Now, there is a video signal sent to the TV, but for some reason the image is split horizontally. Actually it is the same image displayed twice on horizontal split screens with parts of the image dropped off.
> 
> 
> Hoping that you can find a rapid solution to this issue.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



It looks like the solution for my issue with DD-18 is not forthcoming, at least in the near term - following is the response I received from Nick:


==========================================================

Thanks for the feedback. We would need a DD-18 to see what is going on and then find a fix - I don't know when that will be. The issue is that graphics generators are putting out signals that do not follow (exactly) NTSC standards.


Best Regards,

Nick

==========================================================


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is my situation..
> 
> After installing 1.11g firmware, i have random HDCP errors (video muted), no signal (audio and video) on Toshiba HD-DVD or only video signal (no audio).
> 
> After some operations (in contact with Nick of Anthem): power on, power off, HDMI disconnect, connect... another disaster.... now no HDMI output and input from D2, only component.
> 
> Is't possible a hardware failure? or a compatibility problem with my TV LCD (i'm waiting my new projector 1080p, Epson TW1000)?
> 
> Can i install an old firmware version?



I have the entire thread...










Maybe, a temperature problem? or trigger 12V problem? (i use trigger #1)


This evening i try to reinstall 1.11 original firmware.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes - IF I STOP a HD DVD movie and Switch Away to
> 
> some other HDMI device - the Toshiba does stop.
> 
> 
> When I switch back everything is fine. I believe the MOVIE
> 
> in process does start from the beginning again. That is the
> 
> Toshiba doing that not the D2.
> 
> 
> As for the Toshiba getting a HDMI error - it did do that often
> 
> BEFORE the FW update on the Toshiba to Version 2.0. I
> 
> know Bob asked you that question before and you said you
> 
> were up to date.
> 
> 
> My Pioneer BDP-HD1 works even better - you can pause a
> 
> movie and switch away and come back and continue the
> 
> movie from where you left off. Again - that is a Pioneer
> 
> behavior not the D2.
> 
> 
> HDMI Repeater in the D2 is set to OFF for both devices.
> 
> I know you said you had the overlays turned off - but
> 
> I HATE THAT NEW FEATURE of 1.11. It causes more problems
> 
> than benefits. I never have more than one function per
> 
> button turned on.



Just rechecked the HD-A1 firmware version -- 2.0. I also rechecked direct connection of the PS3 to the Ruby and the HD-A1 to the Ruby, using a 20' HDMI cable of the same type as the 3' cables to the D2. No problems, and the PS3 connects fine at 1080p/60.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This evening i try to reinstall 1.11 original firmware.



I was able to install 1.11-released over 1.11g.


----------



## pclausen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So if you are NOT ALREADY a HAPPY D2 Owner.
> 
> 
> GET HAPPY REAL SOON!
> 
> 
> No Need to WAIT - JOIN the
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Crowd



Hehe, I hear you.


I already have a 7.1 setup (GFA-7500 driving the 5 surround channels, GFA-5500 driving the mains, and a pair of Crowns driving my subs so I guess thats really more like 7.2







). The sad thing is that I have not been able to use the 2 rear surround channels for the last 5 years because my current pre-am, an ancient Sony TAE 9000ES, only supports 5.1. I tried just splitting the surround channels to both the side and rear surrounds, but being that my theater is almost 40 feet deep, the delay from the rears was completely unacceptable from the primary listening positions.


Now that I have both HD-DVD and Blu-ray playback devices, but stuck using toshlink for audio, I feel that I'm really missing out on the audio portion of these new formats, hence my quest for a new pre-amp and all roads seems to be leading to Anthem.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just rechecked the HD-A1 firmware version -- 2.0.



Reading the software version Number in the HD-A1 is

confusing. Are you sure [GRIN]? WHAT IS THE WHOLE NUMBER?


----------



## 3no

Well... tried everything once more early this morning to prep for calling Nick, and everything is now working just as it should.







PS3 now solid even at 1080p with HDMI audio. HD-A1 when switched away/back behaves exactly as drhankz describes his. Maybe I have a temperature problem? I'll let it run for a while.


Info with PS3 playing a BD (Chicago) shows for Input:

HDMI YCbCr444

1920x1080p/59.94 Hz

6-CH Fs:NA


Input Status shows

Video: 1920x1080p/59.94 CP

Audio: 6-Ch 48 kHz


Is that what I should expect to see? (Particularly the 48kHz for PCM audio)


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well... tried everything once more early this morning to prep for calling Nick, and everything is now working just as it should.



I hope the same happens this evening...


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Reading the software version Number in the HD-A1 is
> 
> confusing. Are you sure [GRIN]? WHAT IS THE WHOLE NUMBER?



2.0/1.0A/2.0S


Am I interpreting this correctly as 2.0?


----------



## nine ball

Hank,

Assuming that I came over and after we finished playing with the Viper and boat......... and you were going to demo your 'main' theater ......... what three disks would you chose to show off the D2???


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *venpra* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It looks like the solution for my issue with DD-18 is not forthcoming, at least in the near term - following is the response I received from Nick:
> 
> 
> ==========================================================
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. We would need a DD-18 to see what is going on and then find a fix - I don't know when that will be. The issue is that graphics generators are putting out signals that do not follow (exactly) NTSC standards.
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Nick
> 
> ==========================================================



The problem supposedly also exists with the Velodyne SMS-1 standalone bass equalizer product. The SMS-1 is a lot cheaper and a heck of a lot more portable. Perhaps you can contact Velodyne and see if now is the time for them to make either an SMS-1 or a smaller DD sub availble to Nick at Anthem?

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well... tried everything once more early this morning to prep for calling Nick, and everything is now working just as it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS3 now solid even at 1080p with HDMI audio. HD-A1 when switched away/back behaves exactly as drhankz describes his. Maybe I have a temperature problem? I'll let it run for a while.



Yesterday's problems have reappeared, and I didn't touch anything. Just left it run. Going with a temperature problem assumption, I set a 80mm fan on top of the D2 case over the slots on the right side (the hottest area), blowing upwards (helping to exhaust from the D2 case). I'll let that run for a while and see if the problems go back where they came from.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the entire thread...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe, a temperature problem? or trigger 12V problem? (i use trigger #1)
> 
> 
> This evening i try to reinstall 1.11 original firmware.



You can re-install the original V1.11 firmware. You can also re-install the V1.11g firmware on top of itself in case you have any doubt at all that your original install of V1.11g finished without error.


To diagnose a situation like this, deal with the Anthem ouput *FIRST*. This is described as well in the setting up video post linked from the first post in this thread.


Switch the Anthem to an input that has no video source connected. The Anthem will generate an all blue video output screen. See if you can bring up the Anthem Setup menu. It should be red with white text, centered on the screen, and stable.


If you can not see the Setup menu, use the front panel of the Anthem to view the Setup menu. The front panel will only show you a little at a time but you can use the pictures of the menus in the user manual to keep from getting lost. Go to Setup / Video Output and change your video output resolution to some other setting (to force a change). Accept that change (confirm that you want to make that change). Then go back into Setup / Video Output and change the video output resolution back to your desired setting. Verify that HDMI Sync is set correctly in that menu. Upgrading the firmware may have unexpectedly changed that. Once again accept this change. Do you have Anthem generated video on your display now? If not, go back into Setup / Video Output and try the OTHER setting of HDMI Sync.


If you can not get good video generated by the Anthem itself -- the Setup menu and the Test Patterns from the Video Source Adjust menu -- then your problem is not due to any source device. Check your HDMI output cable at both ends. The HDMI cables are only a friction fit and even if they come just a little bit loose that's enough to lose signal. If you are using a long cable to your display temporarily move the Anthem and try a short cable (under 2 meters). Double check that you have selected the correct input on the TV.


If I understand you correctly, this TV used to work with this Anthem until you did the firmware upgrade.


If you can't get Anthem output video this way, and re-installing the firmware does not help, and re-checking the cable does not help, and re-setting the output resolution and HDMI Sync does not help, then yes it sounds like you have a hardware failure.


If you DO get good, solid, Anthem generated video independent of any source device, then your hardware is likely OK and you can move on to figuring out what's going on with each source device.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yesterday's problems have reappeared, and I didn't touch anything. Just left it run. Going with a temperature problem assumption, I set a 80mm fan on top of the D2 case over the slots on the right side (the hottest area), blowing upwards (helping to exhaust from the D2 case). I'll let that run for a while and see if the problems go back where they came from.



3no, despite early posts in this thread, I don't believe we have a single verified case of heat releated intermittent failure with the D2 in this thread. The D2 has a thermal shutdown which should trigger (with error message) before it stops working. All of the cases that were originally thought to be heat related, and which were actually followed through instead of just returning the unit, turned out in the end to be either HDMI cable quality issues or source specific issues with the Anthem firmware.


If you are concerned about the ventilation, then by all means add the fan as it will help the lifespan of your D2, but my guess is that you don't have an ideal mechanical fit between your HDMI cables and the sockets at one or both ends. Or, for whatever reason, the Anthem software isn't doing the trick for your source devices.


We've also had reports that raising the D2 by half an inch (spacers under the feet) also helps it run cooler.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 2.0/1.0A/2.0S
> 
> 
> Am I interpreting this correctly as 2.0?



THAT is EXACTLY correct. But even seeing that did not

convince me. I had to turn my own unit on to verify.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 3no, despite early posts in this thread, I don't believe we have a single verified case of heat releated intermittent failure with the D2 in this thread. The D2 has a thermal shutdown which should trigger (with error message) before it stops working. All of the cases that were originally thought to be heat related, and which were actually followed through instead of just returning the unit, turned out in the end to be either HDMI cable quality issues or source specific issues with the Anthem firmware.
> 
> 
> If you are concerned about the ventilation, then by all means add the fan as it will help the lifespan of your D2, but my guess is that you don't have an ideal mechanical fit between your HDMI cables and the sockets at one or both ends. Or, for whatever reason, the Anthem software isn't doing the trick for your source devices.
> 
> 
> We've also had reports that raising the D2 by half an inch (spacers under the feet) also helps it run cooler.
> 
> --Bob



Problems have gone away with the fan on the case. I'm now removing the fan (without disturbing anything else) and we'll see what happens. Stay tuned.


My D2 is rack mounted, so it has several inches of open space underneath.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hank,
> 
> Assuming that I came over and after we finished playing with the Viper and boat......... and you were going to demo your 'main' theater ......... what three disks would you chose to show off the D2???
> 
> 
> Peter



These are the THREE DVD Movies I use.


1) Has to be *Daylight* - in *DTS* - Chapter 7. But as good as your

D2 might be - the rest of your equipment may not be good enough.


2) *Tina Turner Live in Amsterdam* - in *DTS* - _*Whatever You Want.*_

Here to - the rest of your equipment may not be good enough.


3) Otherwise *Phantom of the Opera* on Blu-ray, uncompressed PCM.


The HD DVD version has a screwed up audio track even though it is TrueHD.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Problems have gone away with the fan on the case. I'm now removing the fan (without disturbing anything else) and we'll see what happens. Stay tuned.
> 
> 
> My D2 is rack mounted, so it has several inches of open space underneath.



My D2 is also Rack Mounted. I do have fans in both

racks of equipment. The fans are in the BOTTOM REAR

doors and at top of each rack. My D2 is lucky enough to

sit in a rack position that has lost of open space above

and below it. The fans pull in cold air from the bottom

an exhaust the hot air out of the top.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Problems have gone away with the fan on the case. I'm now removing the fan (without disturbing anything else) and we'll see what happens. Stay tuned.



Fan off for 30 minutes and the problems are back. Calling Nick.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> These are the THREE DVD Movies I use.
> 
> 
> 1) Has to be *Daylight* - in *DTS* - Chapter 7. But as good as your
> 
> D2 might be - the rest of your equipment may not be good enough.
> 
> 
> 2) *Tina Turner Live in Amsterdam* - in *DTS* - _*Whatever You Want.*_
> 
> Here to - the rest of your equipment may not be good enough.
> 
> 
> 3) Otherwise *Phantom of the Opera* on Blu-ray, uncompressed PCM.
> 
> 
> The HD DVD version has a screwed up audio track even though it is TrueHD.



I know you are musing about your power config........ but I am extremely pleased with my P5/P2 combo but you raise a very sore point........I am a huge fan of the M&K line of speakers and I just discovered last night in this forum that they just went out of business....... a very sad event from my perspective. IMHO they were the best 'mid fi' technology on the block and a phenomenal pairing to the D2/P5/P2 configuration. Soo very very sad.....


Peter


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Fan off for 30 minutes and the problems are back. Calling Nick.



Nick is having me connect the D2 to the Ruby using a 3' HDMI cable, running 1.11g, fan off and see what happens with the PS3 input. He agrees with the experts on this thread that HDMI cable issues are the #1 cause of HDMI synch problems. I've set up that test. It's working well with the fan on and I've just removed the fan.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick is having me connect the D2 to the Ruby using a 3' HDMI cable, running 1.11g, fan off and see what happens with the PS3 input. He agrees with the experts on this thread that HDMI cable issues are the #1 cause of HDMI synch problems. I've set up that test. It's working well with the fan on and I've just removed the fan.



Thanks for keeping us posted! It will be very interesting if this does turn out to be a heat issue in the D2, but I suspect the final result will be that the fan results were, in the end, just coincidence.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How long is the HDMI cable you normally use? 1080p output?
> 
> 
> larry



In my Theater - I use 26.24 ft.


This is the ONLY Cable I have found to deliver needed 1080p performance.

http://www.bestdealcables.com/Detail.aspx?ItemID=164


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know you are musing about your power config........ but I am extremely pleased with my P5/P2 combo but you raise a very sore point........I am a huge fan of the M&K line of speakers and I just discovered last night in this forum that they just went out of business....... a very sad event from my perspective. IMHO they were the best 'mid fi' technology on the block and a phenomenal pairing to the D2/P5/P2 configuration. Soo very very sad.....
> 
> 
> Peter



I have high-end speakers and mine are over 10 years old.

That Company also went out of business but there is now

someone who is at least doing repairs on the speakers if

needed.


----------



## PooperScooper

At 26ft a decent cable should handle 1080p. 3no was talking about 3' ft cables. They'd have to be completely broken to cause problems at that short length. I assume he has more than one cable to try. One of them should work if it's a cable problem at all. If all the cables are bad he needs to run out and buy a lottery ticket.










larry


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> At 26ft a decent cable should handle 1080p. 3no was talking about 3' ft cables. They'd have to be completely broken to cause problems at that short length. I assume he has more than one cable to try. One of them should work if it's a cable problem at all. If all the cables are bad he needs to run out and buy a lottery ticket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> larry



I'm sure 3no's NORMAL cable is much longer than 3 ft.

Nick has asked him to try 3 ft. to diagnose if he longer

cable is the cause of the problem.


NOT many 26 ft. cables can do well at 1080p. They are

picky.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm sure 3no's NORMAL cable is much longer than 3 ft.
> 
> Nick has asked him to try 3 ft. to diagnose if he longer
> 
> cable is the cause of the problem.
> 
> 
> NOT many 26 ft. cables can do well at 1080p. They are
> 
> picky.



Correct. My normal cable D2-->Ruby is a 20' BJC. Nick is having me move the PJ (it is a pedestal mount) right next to my equipment rack and use an extra 3' HDMI cable D2-->Ruby in place of the 20' cable.


So far, I'm seeing same problem with the shorter cable once the D2 warms up. Just put the fan back on and we'll see if it goes away.


----------



## venpra

I have a question related to firmware updates - When Anthem puts out a fix to a problem related to a specific piece of source equipment, is the fix (in the code base of the firmware) usually specific to that piece of equipment?


The reason I ask the question is this - If the fix is in the form of "exception handling" in the code and there are enough number of these exceptions accumulated in the code over time (new firmware releases), then there may be some slowdown in the general speed of execution (technically, at least). Whether this slowdown is perceivable or not is debatable.


This is more of an academic question that I thought would be interesting to know the answer to.


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You can re-install the original V1.11 firmware. You can also re-install the V1.11g firmware on top of itself in case you have any doubt at all that your original install of V1.11g finished without error.



I have tried to reinstall the 1.11 firmware... and... the processor is dead...










Statement D2 found - > "Cannot connect to oki boot loader"


Same serial cable, same firmware, same PC...


If power on, the D2 show "Statement D2 A/V" on front panel.. then power off... dead...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Correct. My normal cable D2-->Ruby is a 20' BJC. Nick is having me move the PJ (it is a pedestal mount) right next to my equipment rack and use an extra 3' HDMI cable D2-->Ruby in place of the 20' cable.
> 
> 
> So far, I'm seeing same problem with the shorter cable once the D2 warms up. Just put the fan back on and we'll see if it goes away.



It is smelling







- excuse the pun - more and more like heat.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Correct. My normal cable D2-->Ruby is a 20' BJC. Nick is having me move the PJ (it is a pedestal mount) right next to my equipment rack and use an extra 3' HDMI cable D2-->Ruby in place of the 20' cable.
> 
> 
> So far, I'm seeing same problem with the shorter cable once the D2 warms up. Just put the fan back on and we'll see if it goes away.



The problem does go away with the fan on. Nick says he'll send a new unit to my dealer to swap for this one (mine is 2 days old).


One interesting thing that Nick pointed out is that the problem I'm seeing is different than most (not just the heat part) in that most reported problems occur when some sort of input change (resolution, switching) causes a handshake but the handshake fails. My problem occurs during normal playback of a BD or of just a static PS3 menu display without any change on the input. Nick says this means that this is not a handshake failure, it's a crash of the video processor (which then reinitializes itself and causes a handshake to occur).


In the mean time I'll keep the fan on this one running so I can get back to tweaking fun. I'll report back in when the new unit arrives (may be a while considering how long it took to get this one) and I run it without the fan.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> T
> 
> In the mean time I'll keep the fan on this one running so I can get back to tweaking fun. I'll report back in when the new unit arrives (may be a while considering how long it took to get this one) and I run it without the fan.



Ya Mr. 3no - Keep *BLOWING* that unit so you can get

some idea how good a good one will be [GRIN]!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The problem does go away with the fan on. Nick says he'll send a new unit to my dealer to swap for this one (mine is 2 days old).
> 
> 
> One interesting thing that Nick pointed out is that the problem I'm seeing is different than most (not just the heat part) in that most reported problems occur when some sort of input change (resolution, switching) causes a handshake but the handshake fails. My problem occurs during normal playback of a BD or of just a static PS3 menu display without any change on the input. Nick says this means that this is not a handshake failure, it's a crash of the video processor (which then reinitializes itself and causes a handshake to occur).
> 
> 
> In the mean time I'll keep the fan on this one running so I can get back to tweaking fun. I'll report back in when the new unit arrives (may be a while considering how long it took to get this one) and I run it without the fan.



Well that's certainly unusual! Usually if the video circuit goes bad the unit would not function at all. I hope they can get you a swap unit pretty fast. Be assured that particularly with your rack mount setup there should be no need for the additional cooling fan when you get the less broken unit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have tried to reinstall the 1.11 firmware... and... the processor is dead...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Statement D2 found - > "Cannot connect to oki boot loader"
> 
> 
> Same serial cable, same firmware, same PC...
> 
> 
> If power on, the D2 show "Statement D2 A/V" on front panel.. then power off... dead...



Do a re-install of the V1.11g firmware and work the problem with Anthem with that firmware in place. One of the fixes between V1.11 and V1.11g was for just this sort of firmware installation failure. The fix is in how the installation application itself operates.


After you re-install V1.11g, do a Reload Factory Defaults from the Setup / Save and Restore Settings menu and re-enter your settings manually -- starting with the Video Output menu.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *venpra* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a question related to firmware updates - When Anthem puts out a fix to a problem related to a specific piece of source equipment, is the fix (in the code base of the firmware) usually specific to that piece of equipment?
> 
> 
> The reason I ask the question is this - If the fix is in the form of "exception handling" in the code and there are enough number of these exceptions accumulated in the code over time (new firmware releases), then there may be some slowdown in the general speed of execution (technically, at least). Whether this slowdown is perceivable or not is debatable.
> 
> 
> This is more of an academic question that I thought would be interesting to know the answer to.



No, the Anthem can't tell what's at the other end of the cable.


The fixes are tricky because they have to work for all of the source devices. Adjusting timings and adjusting how and when the handshake is re-tried and adjusting what information is sent to the source device is what's involved. Basically you have to reverse engineer what the problem sources are doing that gets them confused.

--Bob


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do a re-install of the V1.11g firmware and work the problem with Anthem with that firmware in place. One of the fixes between V1.11 and V1.11g was for just this sort of firmware installation failure. The fix is in how the installation application itself operates.



I can't reinstall the firmare (1.11 or 1.11g).


Message from 1.11 Installer: "cannot connet to oki..."

Message from 1.11g Installer: "cannot switch to 115000 kbs"


Nine months of good working.. and now a hardware failure after a firmware upgrade???!!!! is't possible??


P.S.: today, no answers from my friend Nick...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well that's certainly unusual! Usually if the video circuit goes bad the unit would not function at all. I hope they can get you a swap unit pretty fast. Be assured that particularly with your rack mount setup there should be no need for the additional cooling fan when you get the less broken unit.
> 
> --Bob



Bob has been here longer than I have but I have

read the thread from beginning to end - because

when I started it was shorter [GRIN]!


I agree with Bob - Yours is the first heat problem

we have heard about.


----------



## venpra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, the Anthem can't tell what's at the other end of the cable.
> 
> 
> The fixes are tricky because they have to work for all of the source devices. Adjusting timings and adjusting how and when the handshake is re-tried and adjusting what information is sent to the source device is what's involved. Basically you have to reverse engineer what the problem sources are doing that gets them confused.
> 
> --Bob



That makes a whole lot of sense to me. Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can't reinstall the firmare (1.11 or 1.11g).
> 
> 
> Message from 1.11 Installer: "cannot connet to oki..."
> 
> Message from 1.11g Installer: "cannot switch to 115000 kbs"
> 
> 
> Nine months of good working.. and now a hardware failure after a firmware upgrade???!!!! is't possible??
> 
> 
> P.S.: today, no answers from my friend Nick...



Yes, I'm afraid it is. But let's not jump to that conclusion quite yet.


Turn off the D2 using the power switch on the back panel. Turn off all your source devices and your display. Disconnect everything except the power cord and the serial cord (to your computer) from the D2.


Turn on the D2 using the rear power switch, and attempt to power it up using the buttons on the front panel. If it powers up, go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and attempt to do a Reload Factory Defaults using the front panel display.


If it doesn't power up properly, turn it off once again using the rear power switch, wait a few seconds, and then turn it back on again at the rear power switch. Do NOT try to power up the D2 at this point. The software install program can turn its power on and off as needed.


Now check that the serial cable is properly attached to the back of the D2 and to your computer. Re-boot your computer. All of this is an attempt to get things into a known state. Now try running the V1.11g firmware install again.


If that fails again, then the next step is to try it with a different computer -- preferably a different computer with a real serial port as opposed to a USB to Serial adapter for example.


If you are able to re-install V1.11g, then the first thing you should do after the intall -- even before hooking things back up to the D2 again -- is to power up the D2 and go into Setup / Save and Restore Settings and Reload Factory Defaults using the front panel display. You will have to re-enter your settings manually, but again we are trying to eliminate any possible bad settings that might now be in the D2.


Before you have finished with that, Nick may be back to you with additional suggestions.


I hope this works for you, but unfortunately it is possible for a failed firmware install to leave the unit in a state where you might not be able to reset it yourself.

--Bob


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know you are musing about your power config........ but I am extremely pleased with my P5/P2 combo but you raise a very sore point........I am a huge fan of the M&K line of speakers and I just discovered last night in this forum that they just went out of business....... a very sad event from my perspective. IMHO they were the best 'mid fi' technology on the block and a phenomenal pairing to the D2/P5/P2 configuration. Soo very very sad.....Peter



I've mentioned before that I believe M&K's S-150P (powered) speaker, while very expensive ($2,300 per speaker), is the best the HT speaker ever made. They are so dynamic, detailed and revealing that you actually hear the difference between high end audio products.

*The difference between the preamp in a high end receiver and the D1/D2 is a great example of the quality difference they can reveal.* Details and dynamic sound that can't be heard with other speakers. With a HT system, that's what you want. Sorry they appear to be gone.



> Quote:
> As of Thursday, Feb 22, the M&K Factory is closed.
> 
> For more information regarding Ken Kreisel's recent decision to close the M&K Chatsworth factory after 34 years....


 http://www.mksound.com/


----------



## 3no

Big thank you to Bob Pariseau and drhankz! With your help I was able to "pre-try" many of the exercises that Nick would have had me do and I was able to explain all of that to Nick. The result was a relatively short conversation with Nick, one more "try this", and a short call to report back and arrange for a replacement unit to be sent to my dealer (who is literally 5 minutes away).


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I hope this works for you, but unfortunately it is possible for a failed firmware install to leave the unit in a state where you might not be able to reset it yourself.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


But.. no way.. it's impossible to recover the firmware..


I wait an answer from Nick.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Big thank you to Bob Pariseau and drhankz! With your help I was able to "pre-try" many of the exercises that Nick would have had me do and I was able to explain all of that to Nick. The result was a relatively short conversation with Nick, one more "try this", and a short call to report back and arrange for a replacement unit to be sent to my dealer (who is literally 5 minutes away).



AGAIN - we wish you better luck with unit #2 - but

at least you learned - Anthem Stands behind their

products.


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> AGAIN - we wish you better luck with unit #2 - but
> 
> at least you learned - Anthem Stands behind their
> 
> products.



I hope the Anthem support in Europe is the same as in USA and Canada..


Is the firmware upgrade disaster covered by warranty?


I have followed the correct procedure of manual (with real serial cable)...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I hope the Anthem support in Europe is the same as in USA and Canada..
> 
> 
> Is the firmware upgrade disaster covered by warranty?
> 
> 
> I have followed the correct procedure of manual (with real serial cable)...



I'm sure Anthem will take care of you. We've yet to hear of a case where Anthem has not been totally supportive of their D2 and AVM-50 customers.


I'm afraid the big nuisance here will be the shipping delay.

--Bob


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm sure Anthem will take care of you. We've yet to hear of a case where Anthem has not been totally supportive of their D2 and AVM-50 customers.
> 
> 
> I'm afraid the big nuisance here will be the shipping delay.
> 
> --Bob



Nick emailed me a flash eraser... and i have restored the 1.11 firmware!!










Tomorrow i try to make a new setup of my D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick emailed me a flash eraser... and i have restored the 1.11 firmware!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow i try to make a new setup of my D2.



Woo hoo! This is a new tool I was not aware they could get to customers in trouble!


That's great news! Now we are only left with figuring out what went wrong with your original V1.11g install.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick emailed me a flash eraser... and i have restored the 1.11 firmware!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow i try to make a new setup of my D2.



Excellent. I'm still waiting on Nick on some Tivo S3 issues 11g may resolve.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Woo hoo! This is a new tool I was not aware they could get to customers in trouble!
> 
> 
> That's great news! Now we are only left with figuring out what went wrong with your original V1.11g install.
> 
> --Bob



As an EE using FPGA's, probably long before Anthem DARED to.

I knew this kind of functionality was available. It was up to

Anthem to make it available.


YIPPEE for Anthem.


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick emailed me a flash eraser... and i have restored the 1.11 firmware!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow i try to make a new setup of my D2.



Bad news...


After D2 setup, the inputs are ok (i read the correct value in front panel) but no HDMI output (no signal in my tv).


i checked the HDMI output connector and.... two pins are damaged!!


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Excellent. I'm still waiting on Nick on some Tivo S3 issues 11g may resolve.



I have installed 1.11g, and still have the handshake issue.


One thing I recently noticed, but am still watching very carefully....It appears the handshake is lost only when a 480i program is selected from the S3 menu, or when changing channels, and a 480i program is displayed.


Over the last week and about 15-20 handshake issues, so far, all have been with 480i material.


I posted this issue on the Tivo community forums. One person with a D2 has the same issue, and a search yielded an AVM 50 owner with the same problem.


So, I am only aware of four people with our combination, but all have the same issue.


Please keep me posted if you learn of any fix, and I will do the same.


Mark


----------



## drmabuse

I have attempted installing 1.11g and it seems to have done something to my D2.

It failed the first time after almost completion and now my D2 is "dead" - I cannot get it to power up at all.

I have tried reinstalling 1.11c which was working fine but when the installer starts it fails in the initial EEPROM flash update.

Any ideas anyone?

Does someone have this "flash eraser" they could share?

/\\/\\


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have installed 1.11g, and still have the handshake issue.
> 
> 
> One thing I recently noticed, but am still watching very carefully....It appears the handshake is lost only when a 480i program is selected from the S3 menu, or when changing channels, and a 480i program is displayed.
> 
> 
> Over the last week and about 15-20 handshake issues, so far, all have been with 480i material.
> 
> 
> I posted this issue on the Tivo community forums. One person with a D2 has the same issue, and a search yielded an AVM 50 owner with the same problem.
> 
> 
> So, I am only aware of four people with our combination, but all have the same issue.
> 
> 
> Please keep me posted if you learn of any fix, and I will do the same.
> 
> 
> Mark



Yatchaks,


I have the issue as well with my Series 3 and D2. I guess I am so used to it happening when I switch between an HD broadcast and an SD broadcast that I just am almost numb to it. The flickering and weirdness lasts a couple seconds then it displays properly...usually. Though I have also had times when the sync is lost entirely, and I have to either switch inputs on the D2, then switch back, or powercycle the D2 entirely.


I'd like to see this remedied for sure. I am running 1.10 right now, though it sounds like 1.11g will not resolve it either.


-Brian


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does someone have this "flash eraser" they could share?
> 
> /\\/\\



You can email Nick of Anthem Support..


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You can email Nick of Anthem Support..




I have but unfortunately it is the weekend.

I am travelling on business all next week and my wife is officially going to kill me! No home theatre...

/\\/\\


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have but unfortunately it is the weekend.
> 
> I am travelling on business all next week and my wife is officially going to kill me! No home theatre...
> 
> /\\/\\




Perhaps cobracalde can e-mail you his file?


You certainly don't want your wife to remind you what you spent on your non-working gear.










Mark


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have installed 1.11g, and still have the handshake issue.
> 
> 
> Please keep me posted if you learn of any fix, and I will do the same.
> 
> 
> Mark



Mark,


I guess in my hubris I thought I was beyond this. The update of Tivo S3 software might have triggered something. Still waiting to get 11g, but if it doesn't help, probably fine with e.


Did you try f, it was a disaster for me (mainly on Toshiba XA2 vs Tivo, but problems there too?


Hopefully we'll get better. Did you direct the Tivo community folks here?


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yatchaks,
> 
> 
> I'd like to see this remedied for sure. I am running 1.10 right now, though it sounds like 1.11g will not resolve it either.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Brian,


Misery loves company (unfortunately). I have been reporting issues to Nick so hopefully it's on the list. Did you folks notice anything different before and after the Tivo update?


Tim


----------



## PooperScooper

Picked up my D2 today, hooked it up and have taken it for a spin. I replaced my Pio 49txi receiver and Classe 100 amp (for L/R speakers) with the D2 and Arcam P1000. So far I'm most impressed with the improvement in SQ, but that would be a given. I just did seat of the pants speaker distance and no SPL meter yet. As for video I'm mildly disappointed that the D2 does not filter the ICP from my Oppo 970. On DVE in the 1.33:1 test patterns, 2nd Snell and Wilcox pattern there are 2 triangles, 1 red, 1 blue, in the left middle of screen. You don't have to look close to see they aren't smooth edged. From what I understand this is caused by the ICP at 480i from the Oppo. With 480p from the Oppo these triangles are perfect. Someone earlier mention the D2 filters ICP but I don't see it. Hopefully I'm missing something in the setup. I looked, but didn't see anything obvious. Supposedly the ICP from the Oppo is not as bad as some players and I couldn't find anything in the Oppo 970 thread that more recent firmware has improved the ICP situation. All that being said, I don't know how noticeable it is with real world viewing. I watched part of a movie, TFE of course







, and it looks great. I've learned not to trust my memory, however there were more than a few times that I thought things looked "cleaner" and seemed to have a tad more depth. This was sending 480p out to my Fujitsu P50 plasma.


larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Picked up my D2 today, hooked it up and have taken it for a spin. I replaced my Pio 49txi receiver and Classe 100 amp (for L/R speakers) with the D2 and Arcam P1000. So far I'm most impressed with the improvement in SQ, but that would be a given. I just did seat of the pants speaker distance and no SPL meter yet. As for video I'm mildly disappointed that the D2 does not filter the ICP from my Oppo 970. On DVE in the 1.33:1 test patterns, 2nd Snell and Wilcox pattern there are 2 triangles, 1 red, 1 blue, in the left middle of screen. You don't have to look close to see they aren't smooth edged. From what I understand this is caused by the ICP at 480i from the Oppo. With 480p from the Oppo these triangles are perfect. Someone earlier mention the D2 filters ICP but I don't see it. Hopefully I'm missing something in the setup. I looked, but didn't see anything obvious. Supposedly the ICP from the Oppo is not as bad as some players and I couldn't find anything in the Oppo 970 thread that more recent firmware has improved the ICP situation. All that being said, I don't know how noticeable it is with real world viewing. I watched part of a movie, TFE of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , and it looks great. I've learned not to trust my memory, however there were more than a few times that I thought things looked "cleaner" and seemed to have a tad more depth. This was sending 480p out to my Fujitsu P50 plasma.
> 
> 
> larry



Larry, the color filtering you are looking for is in the Video Source Adjust menu. While viewing the Oppo press and hold the "7" key on the Anthem remote to bring up that menu.


Look towards the bottom of the "Picture" panel in that menu for the "Chroma Bug" item.


While you are in that menu, check to be sure Film Mode = AUTO is also set for your DVD input.


----------------------------------------------------


For folks who don't know, ICP is a color defect inherent in the way standard DVDs are encoded. It is not a processing error in the DVD player so much as an artifact due to faulty design of the DVD encoding scheme itself. [It is distinct from CUE, which *IS* a player processing mistake.] Tackling ICP involves filtering (softening) the color signal to reduce the artifacts. Some players do this by default, others don't. Some allow you to turn the filtering on by user control.


The Anthem has a filter in case you are using a player that doesn't do it for you. You don't want to filter things twice, so leave it in the default, OFF, setting unless you decide you need it (and prefer it) because your player may already be doing this itself. You should only ever need it for DVD playback.


Some folks prefer to watch DVDs with this filtering off anyway. Mostly it depends on how sensitive you are to the artifacts ICP produces.


------------------------------------------------------------------------


Also, I don't know which series P50 you are using, but my 30 series P50 just DOTES on 1360x768p from the Anthem. It's the bee's knees.

--Bob


----------



## sfield

Nick sent me the 1.11g and it fixes the PS3 video mode/purple screen issues I mentioned before. Nick told me they have reproduced the 24p problem and are looking at a fix -- he said there is nothing in 1.11g that would fix this.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> V1.11g is not a public release so there may be some testing Anthem still has to complete on it. There may be a few surprises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD:
> 
> * It's not known whether the 1080i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz film mode processing issue has been fixed. This problem exists in the V1.10 software as well of course. SFIELD was doing the most experimenting with this but I don't think he's stepped up to V1.11g yet.
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Brian,
> 
> 
> Misery loves company (unfortunately). I have been reporting issues to Nick so hopefully it's on the list. Did you folks notice anything different before and after the Tivo update?
> 
> 
> Tim



Tim,


I didn't notice any difference with the Tivo/D2 syncing issue before vs. after the Tivo upgrade. The Series 3 has always behaved the way it is behaving now with the D2 in my experience. Gotta love HDMI sometimes, right? 


Hopefully, Anthem will fix this soon. In the meantime, I've got a new Amazon Unbox movie downloaded to the Series 3 that I need to watch!


Cheers,

Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bad news...
> 
> 
> After D2 setup, the inputs are ok (i read the correct value in front panel) but no HDMI output (no signal in my tv).
> 
> 
> i checked the HDMI output connector and.... two pins are damaged!!



Drat!


Folks you have to be extra careful with HDMI plugs and sockets. It is also the case that a damaged plug, moved from socket to socket (in an effort to find a socket that works) can damage one socket after another.


COBRACALDE, my guess is that your HDMI connection was damaged back when your original V1.11g video output finally failed completely. Nick may be able to give you some guidance on whether the damage is something you can correct yourself with some fine probes and a steady hand.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have attempted installing 1.11g and it seems to have done something to my D2.
> 
> It failed the first time after almost completion and now my D2 is "dead" - I cannot get it to power up at all.
> 
> I have tried reinstalling 1.11c which was working fine but when the installer starts it fails in the initial EEPROM flash update.
> 
> Any ideas anyone?
> 
> Does someone have this "flash eraser" they could share?
> 
> /\\/\\



Not pointing fingers of course, but this is probably a good time to remind people to carefully follow the instructions in the firmware installation kit.


In particular, there must be no live HDMI connection -- either input or output -- during the Anthem firmware installation. Be advised that some source and display devices keep their HDMI sockets live even when they appear to be powered off. To be sure, source and display devices should be disconnected from wall power. Alternatively, you can pull the HDMI plug at either end of the cable to make sure the cable connection can't be live.


Also note that the Anthem should be powered down using the rear panel power switch, and source and display devices should ALSO be powered down, before removing or attaching any cables to the Anthem. The Anthem sits at the center of a lot of other equipment and it is important to make sure there are no transient voltages that get passed when cables are removed or connected.


---------------------------------------------------


The Anthem firmware installation process is supposed to preserve settings, but if something goes wrong you may find yourself having to re-enter settings.


It is wise to write down all settings you can't simply remember. Both the Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu settings should be noted, along with any of the various "temporary" audio settings you like to use via the remote.


The Setup Editor can and should be used to save a copy of the Setup menu settings to a PC file. Always use the most recent version of Setup Editor.


Starting with V1.11g, the Live Video Settings Editor can be used to save a copy of the Video Source Adjust menu settings for all inputs to a PC file.


If you take this advice to save settings to a PC file, another step might help reduce the chances for problems. PRIOR to doing the new firmware install, go in to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and do a Load Factory Defaults.


Then, after completing the new firmware install, AGAIN go into Setup / Save and Restore Settting and do a Load Factory Defaults -- which of course will now be the defaults for the new version of firmware.


[NOTE: The Front Panel display will be used for this since you likely won't have a TV picture to view the Setup menu yet.]


Then reload your individual settings either manually or from the PC files.


Finally, scan through all the menus and look for cases where your settings did not get reloaded as expected. Depending upon the versions you are moving between, there may be some unexpected settings that you will need to correct manually.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not pointing fingers of course, but this is probably a good time to remind people to carefully follow the instructions in the firmware installation kit.
> 
> 
> In particular, there must be no live HDMI connection -- either input or output -- during the Anthem firmware installation. Be advised that some source and display devices keep their HDMI sockets live even when they appear to be powered off. To be sure, source and display devices should be disconnected from wall power. Alternatively, you can pull the HDMI plug at either end of the cable to make sure the cable connection can't be live.
> 
> 
> Also note that the Anthem should be powered down using the rear panel power switch, and source and display devices should ALSO be powered down, before removing or attaching any cables to the Anthem. The Anthem sits at the center of a lot of other equipment and it is important to make sure there are no transient voltages that get passed when cables are removed or connected.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The Anthem firmware installation process is supposed to preserve settings, but if something goes wrong you may find yourself having to re-enter settings.
> 
> 
> It is wise to write down all settings you can't simply remember. Both the Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu settings should be noted, along with any of the various "temporary" audio settings you like to use via the remote.
> 
> 
> The Setup Editor can and should be used to save a copy of the Setup menu settings to a PC file. Always use the most recent version of Setup Editor.
> 
> 
> Starting with V1.11g, the Live Video Settings Editor can be used to save a copy of the Video Source Adjust menu settings for all inputs to a PC file.
> 
> 
> If you take this advice to save settings to a PC file, another step might help reduce the chances for problems. PRIOR to doing the new firmware install, go in to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and do a Load Factory Defaults.
> 
> 
> Then, after completing the new firmware install, AGAIN go into Setup / Save and Restore Settting and do a Load Factory Defaults -- which of course will now be the defaults for the new version of firmware.
> 
> 
> Then reload your individual settings either manually or from the PC files.
> 
> 
> Finally, scan through all the menus and look for cases where your settings did not get reloaded as expected. Depending upon the versions you are moving between, there may be some unexpected settings that you will need to correct manually.
> 
> --Bob



Hi,

I have stored the settings however the D2 has absolutely no power.

I am not sure what I am being told here...I have had an AVM2, AVM20 and now the D2 and have never encountered this type of issue in the past. Nothing was powered up - HDMI or otherwise.

I cannot load any settings as the unit is completely "dead".

/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have stored the settings however the D2 has absolutely no power.
> 
> I am not sure what I am being told here...I have had an AVM2, AVM20 and now the D2 and have never encountered this type of issue in the past. Nothing was powered up - HDMI or otherwise.
> 
> I cannot load any settings as the unit is completely "dead".
> 
> /\\/\\



Sorry I should have been clearer. I was not trying to suggest that there is something you can do now to fix things other than the flash eraser utility you are already trying to track down. I was simply using your situation as an excuse to remind folks once again of some of the common pitfalls in doing a firmware install, and how to avoid them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick sent me the 1.11g and it fixes the PS3 video mode/purple screen issues I mentioned before. Nick told me they have reproduced the 24p problem and are looking at a fix -- he said there is nothing in 1.11g that would fix this.



Thanks for the update! I do hope they can get the 24p problem fix(es) into the next public software release.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry I should have been clearer. I was not trying to suggest that there is something you can do now to fix things other than the flash eraser utility you are already trying to track down. I was simply using your situation as an excuse to remind folks once again of some of the common pitfalls in doing a firmware install, and how to avoid them.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,

No worries - I was concerned that I was not clear - a bit freaked out to be quite honest.









Is it possible that this "no power" situation could be caused by the installation process to the best of your knowledge? I tried the install of 1.11 (g) 3 times before this occurred. The first 2 times the installation went through to the end but then said it failed.

/\\/\\


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Drat!
> 
> 
> Folks you have to be extra careful with HDMI plugs and sockets. It is also the case that a damaged plug, moved from socket to socket (in an effort to find a socket that works) can damage one socket after another.
> 
> 
> COBRACALDE, my guess is that your HDMI connection was damaged back when your original V1.11g video output finally failed completely. Nick may be able to give you some guidance on whether the damage is something you can correct yourself with some fine probes and a steady hand.
> 
> --Bob



Right on Bob. I had my original AVM 50 for less than two days, and apparently messed up the HDMI out, but was lucky enough to get a replacement.


This is my only major gripe with these units, and this shouldn't be the case. IMHO, a person shouldn't need a surgeon's steady hand and a flashlight while inserting an HDMI cable for fear of damaging the unit.


I have HDMI equipment which I've unplugged and plugged in on numerous occassions, and at times, did so blindly, by feel only and never experienced a problem.


That said, the "blind" method I have used wasn't the smartest thing I've done, and wont be used again for any HDMI device I own.


Knowing all HDMI devices must be off or unplugged each time new software is installed into the Anthem could create future failures, especially those with an HDMI DVR or a device which doesn't have the option of turning off.


Some may assume unplugging the device from the back of the Anthem would be the most convenient, but it has become apparent this may not be a good idea.


Mark


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Larry, the color filtering you are looking for is in the Video Source Adjust menu. While viewing the Oppo press and hold the "7" key on the Anthem remote to bring up that menu.
> 
> 
> Look towards the bottom of the "Picture" panel in that menu for the "Chroma Bug" item.
> 
> 
> While you are in that menu, check to be sure Film Mode = AUTO is also set for your DVD input.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> For folks who don't know, ICP is a color defect inherent in the way standard DVDs are encoded. It is not a processing error in the DVD player so much as an artifact due to faulty design of the DVD encoding scheme itself. [It is distinct from CUE, which *IS* a player processing mistake.] Tackling ICP involves filtering (softening) the color signal to reduce the artifacts. Some players do this by default, others don't. Some allow you to turn the filtering on by user control.
> 
> 
> The Anthem has a filter in case you are using a player that doesn't do it for you. You don't want to filter things twice, so leave it in the default, OFF, setting unless you decide you need it (and prefer it) because your player may already be doing this itself. You should only ever need it for DVD playback.
> 
> 
> Some folks prefer to watch DVDs with this filtering off anyway. Mostly it depends on how sensitive you are to the artifacts ICP produces.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Also, I don't know which series P50 you are using, but my 30 series P50 just DOTES on 1360x768p from the Anthem. It's the bee's knees.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob, I didn't think the filtering had been overlooked. I guess I'll have to read the manual.







I have a P50/10 and have used 1360x768 before with a IscanHD but at the time couldn't see a difference between NR and 480p. I foget what player I tried it with, it's been a while. If it's not asking to much can you PM the video timings to me? I misplaced them. The factory one for 1360x768 isn't correct for the P50 and I don't think the P50 models differ.


larry


----------



## yatchaks

Bob, I see you have a very good post on the "FAQ" on the fist page of this thread titled * Disconnect HDMI sources and display PRIOR to installing an upgrade!


What do you think of adding a "precaution" to it, warning people to take extra care when inserting HDMI connectors?


Or perhaps Levesque can add a red warning above or below your post and mention this?



Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, I see you have a very good post on the "FAQ" on the fist page of this thread titled * Disconnect HDMI sources and display PRIOR to installing an upgrade!
> 
> 
> What do you think of adding a "precaution" to it, warning people to take extra care when inserting HDMI connectors?
> 
> 
> Or perhaps Levesque can add a red warning above or below your post and mention this?
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



Personally I take the other approach which is to disconnect the source and display devices from wall power while leaving the HDMI cables in place.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob, I didn't think the filtering had been overlooked. I guess I'll have to read the manual.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a P50/10 and have used 1360x768 before with a IscanHD but at the time couldn't see a difference between NR and 480p. I foget what player I tried it with, it's been a while. If it's not asking to much can you PM the video timings to me? I misplaced them. The factory one for 1360x768 isn't correct for the P50 and I don't think the P50 models differ.
> 
> 
> larry



Larry, the Anthem's built in 1360x768 resolution works fine with my 30 series P50, so I haven't explored any custom timings. If you are having problems with it, first make sure you have tried both possible settings of Setup / Video Output / HDMI Sync on the Anthem. Only one of those Sync choices will work correctly.


Also, on the 30 series there is a DVI configuration setting that needs to be set to DVI2 to condition the P50's DVI input for Studio RGB as opposed to computer connections. The Fujitsu's factory default for that setting is DVI1 (for PC style hookup).


Video output Color Format on the Anthem should be set to RGB. Don't use "Auto".


Note that you need to use 1360x768p on the Anthem even though the physical matrix on the Fujitsu is 1366x768. The Fujitsus (at least the 30 series) will not accept 1366x768p. When using 1360x768p you will have a strip of a few black pixels unused on each side, but the rest of the pixels will be 1:1 and the result is very good indeed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> No worries - I was concerned that I was not clear - a bit freaked out to be quite honest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible that this "no power" situation could be caused by the installation process to the best of your knowledge? I tried the install of 1.11 (g) 3 times before this occurred. The first 2 times the installation went through to the end but then said it failed.
> 
> /\\/\\



Yes. A failed firmware install can leave the unit in a state where it can't start up properly. I suspect that's all that's going on here.


Now why the install failed is something you should explore with Nick -- as is why the failed install left the unit in a state where you can't simply redo the install or re-install a prior version.


The Flash Erase utility should get things back to a state where you can do a fresh install. I think it is pretty nifty that Anthem had the foresight to make this erase function work through the serial interface. Some product designs do it through a special interface (inside the chassis) that's not intended for use outside the factory.

--Bob


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Flash Erase utility should get things back to a state where you can do a fresh install. I think it is pretty nifty that Anthem had the foresight to make this erase function work through the serial interface. Some product designs do it through a special interface (inside the chassis) that's not intended for use outside the factory.
> 
> --Bob



There are two reset procedure.


Software: you need flash eraser.


Hardware: please, contact Nick. It's possible, inside the chassis, to reset the D2.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Larry, the Anthem's built in 1360x768 resolution works fine with my 30 series P50, so I haven't explored any custom timings. If you are having problems with it, first make sure you have tried both possible settings of Setup / Video Output / HDMI Sync on the Anthem. Only one of those Sync choices will work correctly.
> 
> 
> Also, on the 30 series there is a DVI configuration setting that needs to be set to DVI2 to condition the P50's DVI input for Studio RGB as opposed to computer connections. The Fujitsu's factory default for that setting is DVI1 (for PC style hookup).
> 
> 
> Video output Color Format on the Anthem should be set to RGB. Don't use "Auto".
> 
> 
> Note that you need to use 1360x768p on the Anthem even though the physical matrix on the Fujitsu is 1366x768. The Fujitsus (at least the 30 series) will not accept 1366x768p. When using 1360x768p you will have a strip of a few black pixels unused on each side, but the rest of the pixels will be 1:1 and the result is very good indeed.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. I did try the D2 1360x768 setting when I was playing in Setup and the screen was readable but was only about 80% (shifted a bit and some flickering). I'll try what you mentioned. On my P50 the DVI1/2 setting makes no difference, flipping back and forth doesn't change anything (fortunately it's Studio RGB levels.







). Also, turn off the screen orbiter. When I had the IscanHD and was trying to verify 1:1 mapping with the 1360x768 test pattern generated by the IscanHD it would not look correct until I turned off the screen orbiter. It was driving me (and Josh at DVDO) nuts for a bit.










I forgot to mention that my unit came with 1.11 firmware. I did finally calibrate the audio with a SPL meter and I can't see any indication of a LFE issue with my Oppo 970, Tosh HDA1, and PS3 with HDMI audio. I just wish there wasn't so many choices on how to process the incoming audio for 7.1 output.







And when I popped in my R2 Gladiator Superbit the D2 handled the "infamous" Rome fly-over roof tops scene with no issues. The more I play with this unit the more I'm impressed.


Also, after my minor whimper about the ICP issue, I ended up leaving the filter off. On the same Snell and Wilcox pattern there's a "box" with 4:2:0 above it. With the filter off you can see individual horizontal lines and with the the filter on it's "opaque", basically solid. I'm guessing the behavior with the filter off is correct.


The D2 does run somewhat "warm". It runs hotter than the new multichannel amp I just got.







Although the amp is Class H so it's going to run somewhat cooler which is one of the reasons I got it even though there may be some sonic tradeoffs - I'm not real picky about HT audio.


larry


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Folks you have to be extra careful with HDMI plugs and sockets. It is also the case that a damaged plug, moved from socket to socket (in an effort to find a socket that works) can damage one socket after another.



I have controlled my hdmi cables and they are ok.



> Quote:
> COBRACALDE, my guess is that your HDMI connection was damaged back when your original V1.11g video output finally failed completely.



Yes.. this explain my problems... after firmware upgrade..


thanks Bob


----------



## PooperScooper

From some posts back, speaking of HDMI connector "wear out", here's a inexpensive way to save wear and tear on the D2 HDMI ports. Use one of these and you only wear out the connector on the inexpensive dongle. The D2 port always stays connected. Except for every long cable runs these should not affect performance. http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage 


larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I believe we now have enough information to make the following statement:


NOTE: The "10dB low LFE" problem is more fully explained in the following thread in the Audio Theory forum here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=748147 


The Anthem Statement D2 and Anthem AVM-50 pre/pros do *NOT* have the "10dB low LFE" problem with version V1.11 (or later) firmware installed. The V1.11 version of the firmware first became available for download from the Anthem web site on November 24, 2006. It is also the version that is factory installed in new product as of today, March 11, 2007.


PLEASE NOTE: Prior versions of the Anthem firmware for these two products, i.e., versions V1.10 or older, *DO* have this problem.


The currently installed firmware version can be viewed by pressing the Select key, once, on the Anthem remote.


---------------------------------------------------


The Anthem V1.11 or later firmware for these two products, by default, boosts incoming LFE by 10dB as it should -- independent of bass steered to the subwoofer from the main speakers -- as for example when received as 5.1 channel, high bandwidth, PCM over HDMI from HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players or from SACD or DVD-Audio players that output over HDMI. For the very few cases where the user might need to remove or reduce this boost, there is a temporary control available under the Setup/Sub/LFE button on the Anthem remote (two presses of that button, and then the up or down arrows to adjust) which can be used to reduce LFE (from its boosted level) up to -10dB in steps of 0.5dB.


=====================================


LEVESQUE, I believe this post should be added as a link in the Technology and Terminology section of the first post in this thread. Thanks! And thanks to all who contributed to the testing to finally nail this down.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are two reset procedure.
> 
> 
> Software: you need flash eraser.
> 
> 
> Hardware: please, contact Nick. It's possible, inside the chassis, to reset the D2.



Do you have to do both procedures every time or is the hardware procedure (inside the chassis) only needed in cases where the software procedure doesn't work?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob. I did try the D2 1360x768 setting when I was playing in Setup and the screen was readable but was only about 80% (shifted a bit and some flickering). I'll try what you mentioned. On my P50 the DVI1/2 setting makes no difference, flipping back and forth doesn't change anything (fortunately it's Studio RGB levels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Also, turn off the screen orbiter. When I had the IscanHD and was trying to verify 1:1 mapping with the 1360x768 test pattern generated by the IscanHD it would not look correct until I turned off the screen orbiter. It was driving me (and Josh at DVDO) nuts for a bit.



Yes the orbiter needs to be off. It's hard to believe that Fujitsu sells such an expensive display pre-configured for commercial still image display purposes (which is what the orbiter is all about). Go figur.


If you have the HDMI Sync setting incorrect in the Anthem then your image will be significantly shifted horizontally or you will get no image at all. With the correct Sync setting, 1360x768 should center on the Fujitsu using its default horizontal and vertical positioning and size settings. By the way, I spoke with Fujitsu tech people and for the 30 series, 1360x768 is their recommended input resolution from a good external scaler.


Even though you may not SEE a difference with DVI1 vs. DVI2 on a given test, I would strongly recommend you use the DVI2 (DVD or TV set top box) setting. I believe it conditions the Fujitsu's image processing to take advantage of Blacker than Black and Peak White data which may be present in a Studio RGB digital video stream.

--Bob


----------



## PooperScooper

^^^ Yes, I do set DVI2 even though it doesn't appear to do anything.







The only reason I'm not totally convinced I need to feed it NR is that the AVM can do subpixel management which may produce slightly better results when scaling (if it works he way I think it does) - something an external scaler can't do. I'm about to give it a whirl. Leaving one output resolution will make things easier.


larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^ Yes, I do set DVI2 even though it doesn't appear to do anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only reason I'm not totally convinced I need to feed it NR is that the AVM can do subpixel management which may produce slightly better results when scaling (if it works he way I think it does) - something an external scaler can't do. I'm about to give it a whirl. Leaving one output resolution will make things easier.
> 
> 
> larry



The Fujitsu image processing is not actually turned off when you do 1360x768p. So I believe the subpixel management (and in particular the timing related to the firing of the three phosphors) is all still active.

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks

For the few of us here with the Anthem/Tivo S3 combo and handshake issues, it appears the problem is *NOT* with our Anthems.


A gentleman responded to me on the Tivo community forums who owns a DVDO VP50, and has the same problem we do when using the S3 in native mode.


I was then inclined to search the "video processor" forum here, and did confirm more users of external scalers losing the handshake.


I feel the only hope we have to remedy our problem resides with Anthem figuring out a fix.


There are so few S3 owners using scalers, (IMHO) I seriously doubt Tivo will address our problem, let alone understand the workings of a scaler.


Mark


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are so few S3 owners using scalers, (IMHO) I seriously doubt Tivo will address our problem, let alone understand the workings of a scaler.
> 
> 
> Mark



I just use COMPONENT with all my DVRs - Therefore NO PROBLEMS.


No DVR needs HDMI. Sound is only Vanilla DD which is fine over OPTICAL.


That is my TWO cent fix.


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you have to do both procedures every time or is the hardware procedure (inside the chassis) only needed in cases where the software procedure doesn't work?
> 
> --Bob



The hardware procedure (to do only in a authorized center) is only needed in cases where the software procedure don't work.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just use COMPONENT with all my DVRs - Therefore NO PROBLEMS.
> 
> 
> No DVR needs HDMI. Sound is only Vanilla DD which is fine over OPTICAL.
> 
> 
> That is my TWO cent fix.




Thanks drhankz,


I don't know why this didn't occur to me, I guess I'm making it more complicated than need be.


I do however have a question.


If I keep the (Anthem) monitor out HDMI, while using component out from the S3, and run the S3 in native mode, will the component connection pass 480i through to the monitor as if it were HDMI? Another words, I "should not" see any difference?


I'm not referring to the folks who debate HDMI vs component and all that jazz, just wondering if 480i passes through from component to HDMI without a hitch.



Thanks,


Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks drhankz,
> 
> 
> I don't know why this didn't occur to me, I guess I'm making it more complicated than need be.
> 
> 
> I do however have a question.
> 
> 
> If I keep the (Anthem) monitor out HDMI, while using component out from the S3, and run the S3 in native mode, will the component connection pass 480i through to the monitor as if it were HDMI? Another words, I "should not" see any difference?
> 
> 
> I'm not referring to the folks who debate HDMI vs component and all that jazz, just wondering if 480i passes through from component to HDMI without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Mark



Mark, Component in from the S3, at whatever resolution the S3 is sending (including 480i), will be converted to the one specific resolution and frame rate you have specified in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu, and that's what will be sent out the Anthem's HDMI output to your TV.


As usual, you should first set the levels in your TV to match the Anthem's internally generated video test patterns when viewed at that resolution over the HDMI connection. These will be independent of any source device video. You should leave them at these settings regardless of which source you are viewing through the Anthem.


Meanwhile, you may then discover that you need to adjust the Anthem INPUT levels (in the Video Source Adjust menu for that input) to best match what the S3 is sending over Component. There is no reason to assume that the best levels for HDMI input from the S3 will be the same as the best levels for Component input. They might be, but you should check to be sure.


You can record short test pattern programs from HD-NET and from INHD to check this. The INHD version is called "Tune Up". The HD-NET version I think is just called "Test", but its been a while so I might be wrong there. Both channels broadcast their version early in the morning about once every two weeks.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The hardware procedure (to do only in a authorized center) is only needed in cases where the software procedure don't work.



Yes that makes sense. It would be unwise to have owners opening up the chassis.


I'm quite pleased that they are making the software flash erase utility available on a case by case basis. Not many companies would do that.


I do hope they can find a quick solution for you on your damaged HDMI socket.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For the few of us here with the Anthem/Tivo S3 combo and handshake issues, it appears the problem is *NOT* with our Anthems.
> 
> 
> A gentleman responded to me on the Tivo community forums who owns a DVDO VP50, and has the same problem we do when using the S3 in native mode.
> 
> 
> I was then inclined to search the "video processor" forum here, and did confirm more users of external scalers losing the handshake.
> 
> 
> I feel the only hope we have to remedy our problem resides with Anthem figuring out a fix.
> 
> 
> There are so few S3 owners using scalers, (IMHO) I seriously doubt Tivo will address our problem, let alone understand the workings of a scaler.
> 
> 
> Mark



Mark, in the long term, one additional hope is that the industry's new SimPlay certification program will start to eliminate such nonsense from popular source devices.


As more scaling receivers hit the market this year, this sort of shoddy stuff from source device manufacturers will become more and more evident -- as for example has already happened with cable boxes from Motorola and Scientific Atlanta. SimPlay cross-manufacturer testing is supposed to insure that devices all play nice with each other over HDMI. Whether it will really make a difference is yet to be seen.


For example, I'm worried that they may only fully test compatibility going forward. In other words, if an HDMI V1.3 device has problems with some HDMI V1.1 devices, I'm not certain that it will be denied SimPlay certification.


------------------------------------------------


But for the present, I agree that it is much more likely Anthem will find a workaround for this before Tivo does.


It's sad really. I like what HDMI brings to the table, but so many manufacturers aren't applying the resources to see that their products do it correctly.


-----------------------------------------------


You might want to post summary details on the S3 issue with scalers over in the HDMI forum here. Poster HDMI_ORG claims to be passing specific device issues to the "compliance group" of the HDMI Organization. This might actually mean that Tivo gets a nudge to fix this, and possibly even some help as to how to do it correctly.

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks

Bob, thanks a ton.


I also appreciate the heads up on the HDMI forum, I haven't visited that part of the forum since it began. I will most definitely do so.


Mark


----------



## lalarsons

I am happy to find this forum. My D2 and A5 are on their way and have started back at the beginning to catch up on tweaks and careabouts. Looking forward to seeing the next level!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am happy to find this forum. My D2 and A5 are on their way and have started back at the beginning to catch up on tweaks and careabouts. Looking forward to seeing the next level!



Welcome to the "silly grins and jumping up and down in glee" club!


If you haven't done so already, check out the links found in the first post in this thread. That'll get you started.


---------------------------------------------------


After that you should probably come back to the end here and start reading backwards as many of the early posts in this thread are, by now, out of date.

--Bob


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Fujitsu image processing is not actually turned off when you do 1360x768p. So I believe the subpixel management (and in particular the timing related to the firing of the three phosphors) is all still active.
> 
> --Bob



I tried 1360x768 and could find no differences with any test patterns I put up compared to 480p. The only real difference was calibration settings on the P50 were completely different than anything else I've ever plugged in. When I was done I moved my Oppo to a different spot in the rack and now it doesn't work via HDMI. The D2 just keeps trying to synch and I get sparklies, noise etc. It's not a cable problem or D2 HDMI port problem - all work fine with the PS3. None of my 4 other players will do 480i via HDMI or won't do it correctly via component. I just ordered a new 970HD. The one that just died was a freebie.


Speaking of DVRs I think I'm going to go the compnent route also. I currently have HDMI going from the Moto 6412 to the D2, but I also connected component to from the 6412 to the P50 because most of my cable TV watching doesn't require the rest of my HT to be powered up. However if I leave the D2 output at 480p when I switch to the component output of the 6412 it has changed changed itself to 480p when I had originally set it to 1080i.


I did also see the ICP problem when playing video. On DVE in one of the evaluation videos there's some red flowers that come spurting out of the green plant. The flowers show the jaggies/lines quite well even on a 50" screen. I bet it even looks worse on a screen 2x the size or more.


larry


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just use COMPONENT with all my DVRs - Therefore NO PROBLEMS.
> 
> 
> No DVR needs HDMI. Sound is only Vanilla DD which is fine over OPTICAL.
> 
> 
> That is my TWO cent fix.



Mark- Based on the advice of the experts in this forum I too avoided HDMI and used component/toslink from DVR (Comcast/Moto 3412) to D2 and HDMI/1080p from D2 to Ruby. This was the workaround suggested in this thread for reported HDMI handshake delay issues when the source programming changed video/audio resolution. Pre-D2 I had tried both direct HDMI from DVR --> Ruby and direct component and found them equal in PQ.


As my D2 is less than a week old, and I left on a business trip after owning it for 3 days, and spent most of those 3 days diagnosing what turned out to be a thermal component failure in the D2 (quickly acknowledged and taken care of by Anthem!), I have not yet done the calibration chain that Bob P refers to a few posts back.


So... clearly I'm in no position to make expert recommendations, but I can tell you that even without that calibration, the PQ is as good as it was with my previous direct video connection and the AQ is clearly superior.


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes that makes sense. It would be unwise to have owners opening up the chassis.
> 
> 
> I'm quite pleased that they are making the software flash erase utility available on a case by case basis. Not many companies would do that.
> 
> 
> I do hope they can find a quick solution for you on your damaged HDMI socket.
> 
> --Bob



The answer from Belgium authorized distributor (my D2 comes from Belgium) is very disappointing










I sent the mail from Belgium to Nick of Anthem... i hope they take care of my problem...


----------



## FilmMixer

Well.. I bricked my D2 today..


Using a Mac Book and Parallels, I tried upgrading and Windows spontanously rebooted when it was programming the scaler... My D2 aint happy... no audio or video..


Anybody want to send me the newest 1.11 and/or flash utitlity.... I was trying to install 1.11 and now get a Invalid Mega 103 Signature message if I try a reinstall...


To all of the others reading the thread, I am sure this is a computer issue.. My D2 has been rock solid, and I should've pulled the old PC out for this update, and I am not sure why Parallels/Windows rebooted itself...


I have an email into Nick, but was hoping to try some things tonight...


If anybody has some software to send, PM me.. I'd greatly appreciate it..


Marc.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just use COMPONENT with all my DVRs - Therefore NO PROBLEMS.
> 
> 
> No DVR needs HDMI. Sound is only Vanilla DD which is fine over OPTICAL.
> 
> 
> That is my TWO cent fix.



Well that was always my advice on the Moto DVR cable box, but I was hoping a newest gen S3 could "handle" modern standards. After working out the sound issues with an optical cable in addition to the HDMI audio, I should have thought about going all the way... backwards. My biggest problem would be needing to use the Zektor component switch back in service, which despite being a great switch, increases the remote macro complexity etc. as when I was back with a Po Boy Pio flagship receiver (that was a joke).


I am hoping the Anthem folks can still work the issue, not unique only to the S3 I assume in characteristic. Interested to hear your results Mark before stone aging it...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well.. I bricked my D2 today..
> 
> 
> Using a Mac Book and Parallels, I tried upgrading and Windows spontanously rebooted when it was programming the scaler... My D2 aint happy... no audio or video..
> 
> 
> 
> Marc.



Hi Marc


I'm sorry to hear about your Bricked D2 - but using anything

except an OLD PC with a REAL SERIAL port is a BIG NO NO.


I have lots MACs and PCs with serial usb's here - and I would not

dare to use one on my D2.


Hopefully Nick will send you some rescue software.


Hank


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can tell you that even without that calibration, the PQ is as good as it was with my previous direct video connection and the AQ is clearly superior.



I have two identical DVRs hooked to my D2.


I started with HDMI - they worked fine - but the handshake

delay was bugging me.


My first test was a side-by-side A/B Test.


I had one connected via HDMI and one via component.


I did frame by frame switching back and forth and even with my

Ruby on a 12 ft. screen - I could not detect any PQ difference.


Now they both run on Component with NO Handshake delays

and I have two FREE HDMI ports for future use.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Marc
> 
> 
> I'm sorry to hear about your Bricked D2 - but using anything
> 
> except an OLD PC with a REAL SERIAL port is a BIG NO NO.
> 
> 
> I have lots MACs and PCs with serial usb's here - and I would not
> 
> dare to use one on my D2.
> 
> 
> Hopefully Nick will send you some rescue software.
> 
> 
> Hank



I am sure he will.. I actually have a PC with serial card, and hoped all of Anthems statements regarding the installation problems being worked out were true.. but alas, time to bring out the old PC


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just use COMPONENT with all my DVRs - Therefore NO PROBLEMS.
> 
> 
> No DVR needs HDMI. Sound is only Vanilla DD which is fine over OPTICAL.
> 
> 
> That is my TWO cent fix.



Greetings,


I am ready to do this as well. I have a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD and have started to have problems when going from 480i or 1080i to 720p. The handshake is sometimes lost. It will resync but it takes a minute which has become annoying.


Regards,


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I am ready to do this as well. I have a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD and have started to have problems when going from 480i or 1080i to 720p. The handshake is sometimes lost. It will resync but it takes a minute which has become annoying.
> 
> 
> Regards,



You HIT THE NAIL ON THE HEAD - it does resync.


But who needs the hassle?


----------



## obie_fl

I have a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR running the Passport software and I've had relatively few problems with it. I really thought of all my source devices it would be the problem child but have been pleasantly surprised. I should add that I don't do a lot of hard core channel surfing in my HT but I can go between 480i, 720P, and 1080i channels without issue. No S/PDIF or component cables for me


----------



## Bob Pariseau

While there's no doubt the original cable box engineering was inexcusibly shoddy, it should be noted that both Scientific Atlanta and Motorola have issued a series of firmware upgrades for their various boxes which are supposed to help fix HDMI problems. Now some of these "upgrades" actually don't help at all -- make matters worse in certain cases, or lead to different problems such as damaged images even though sync seems to happen -- but others do help.


And the problem is that no matter what the hardware manufacturer releases, most customers are at the mercy of their cable provider as to actually GETTING any of these fixes. The firmware is distributed as part of the cable providers general software releases, and those are gated by other issues the cable providers consider higher priority -- such as Comcast's drive to add advertising to its "program guide" screens. The software releases are driven by competitive needs in each market. So a Comcast customer in one market may very well be running a different software/firmware version combo than a Comcast customer in a different market.


So it is not surprising at all that some people have more problems with these boxes than others. Nor that companies like Anthem must be pulling their hair trying to deal with this mess.


At least one cable company deliberately names their HDMI connector a "digital TV connector" to get around the fact that it is not actually HDMI compliant. They have no shame in telling people it only works when directly connected to a TV and even then only to a "proper TV". I.e., that Component connections are the "correct" way to hook things up since most TVs don't "handle this correctly". They will also cheerfully claim that any problems going through a receiver are the receiver's fault, and since most receivers "are not made correctly" they don't warrant their connection to work except when hooked directly to some TVs. But then, you always have a choice of moving to a different market if you don't like their particular monopoly service.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR running the Passport software and I've had relatively few problems with it. I really thought of all my source devices it would be the problem child but have been pleasantly surprised. I should add that I don't do a lot of hard core channel surfing in my HT but I can go between 480i, 720P, and 1080i channels without issue. No S/PDIF or component cables for me




Greetings,


Until recently I had no real compliants. Of all of my HDMI sources the 8300HD was always the quirkiest. I suspect this is due to the fact that when switching between channels and various resolutions there is more of a chance of problems. This is not the case with my Blu-ray/HD DVD/DVD players which all have fixed outputs.


The firwmware was recently upgraded on the 8300HD however I think the problem began prior to that. I believe I started to notice this when I upgraded to the 1.11e software from Anthem.


I may try the latest release and see if that has any bearing before going to component.


Regards,


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I may try the latest release and see if that has any bearing before going to component.
> 
> 
> Regards,



With the possible problems some users are seeing with all of

the various TEST RELEASES.


THE LAST thing I would do is touch the software. Changing

Cables is not going to break anything. You can not safely say

that for the TEST Software.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR running the Passport software and I've had relatively few problems with it. I really thought of all my source devices it would be the problem child but have been pleasantly surprised. I should add that I don't do a lot of hard core channel surfing in my HT but I can go between 480i, 720P, and 1080i channels without issue. No S/PDIF or component cables for me




Same thing on my side. No issue and resync are fast.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> While there's no doubt the original cable box engineering was inexcusibly shoddy, it should be noted that both Scientific Atlanta and Motorola have issued a series of firmware upgrades for their various boxes which are supposed to help fix HDMI problems. Now some of these "upgrades" actually don't help at all -- make matters worse in certain cases, or lead to different problems such as damaged images even though sync seems to happen -- but others do help.
> 
> 
> And the problem is that no matter what the hardware manufacturer releases, most customers are at the mercy of their cable provider as to actually GETTING any of these fixes. The firmware is distributed as part of the cable providers general software releases, and those are gated by other issues the cable providers consider higher priority -- such as Comcast's drive to add advertising to its "program guide" screens. The software releases are driven by competitive needs in each market. So a Comcast customer in one market may very well be running a different software/firmware version combo than a Comcast customer in a different market.
> 
> 
> So it is not surprising at all that some people have more problems with these boxes than others. Nor that companies like Anthem must be pulling their hair trying to deal with this mess.
> 
> 
> At least one cable company deliberately names their HDMI connector a "digital TV connector" to get around the fact that it is not actually HDMI compliant. They have no shame in telling people it only works when directly connected to a TV and even then only to a "proper TV". I.e., that Component connections are the "correct" way to hook things up since most TVs don't "handle this correctly". They will also cheerfully claim that any problems going through a receiver are the receiver's fault, and since most receivers "are not made correctly" they don't warrant their connection to work except when hooked directly to some TVs. But then, you always have a choice of moving to a different market if you don't like their particular monopoly service.
> 
> --Bob



Exactly we end customer from cable company we don't have any control on the upgrade. This is really painful. Some time they do upgrade without notice and you end-up with all the programming being lost.










I am happy to have a stable setup with the 8300HD but you are right this could change anytime.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am sure he will.. I actually have a PC with serial card, and hoped all of Anthems statements regarding the installation problems being worked out were true.. but alas, time to bring out the old PC



I've used a USB->serial "dongle" with no problems on my universal remote and my XP based laptop, but I'd be afraid now to try it with the D2. I was just about to order a 50' serial cable today before I realized I should wait to get back home and check which genders I need.


larry


----------



## TomHuffman

What sort of experience have people had with Anthem technical support? My experience has NOT been good.


I sent them an e-mail about my inability to get sound from the HDMI connection on a new AVM 40. When I didn't hear back after a couple of days, I sent another e-mail requesting that they please respond. Then I did hear from Nick who asked me to check some things, get back to him, and then based on my report he would take it to the next step. Well, I sent the e-mail back several days ago and have not yet heard back.


Is it better to get them by phone? They sure don't respond to e-mail in a timely fashion.


----------



## obie_fl

I guess I've been lucky as Nick usually gets back to me within a day but I know he does get bogged down at times.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What sort of experience have people had with Anthem technical support? My experience has NOT been good.
> 
> 
> I sent them an e-mail about my inability to get sound from the HDMI connection on a new AVM 40. When I didn't hear back after a couple of days, I sent another e-mail requesting that they please respond. Then I did hear from Nick who asked me to check some things, get back to him, and then based on my report he would take it to the next step. Well, I sent the e-mail back several days ago and have not yet heard back.
> 
> 
> Is it better to get them by phone? They sure don't respond to e-mail in a timely fashion.



The consensus opinion of people in this thread is that Anthem tech support is VERY good. As you can imagine, however, some problems are harder than others to pin down. And response time to a given email or phone message depends on just how many other queries are on their plate at the moment.


But if you give them a chance to work through the problem with you, they WILL do the right thing by you.


My guess is that the AVM-40 is a new enough product that they are trying to sort out whether it is a design flaw, a flaw in your particular unit, or just some new symptom of source device produced problems that they haven't encountered up to now with the AVM-50 and D2.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What sort of experience have people had with Anthem technical support? My experience has NOT been good.
> 
> 
> I sent them an e-mail about my inability to get sound from the HDMI connection on a new AVM 40. When I didn't hear back after a couple of days, I sent another e-mail requesting that they please respond. Then I did hear from Nick who asked me to check some things, get back to him, and then based on my report he would take it to the next step. Well, I sent the e-mail back several days ago and have not yet heard back.
> 
> 
> Is it better to get them by phone? They sure don't respond to e-mail in a timely fashion.




Tom: I agree with what Bob says above. My experience has been nothing short of fantastic and I'm sure many others in here would concur. I have the AVM 50 and since it was such a new product when I purchased it, there were a significant number of issues pop up. I would normally send Nick an e-mail in the morning and had a response from him in the afternoon, even though the response didn't necessarily always include a fix for the problem, but they always did get back to me.


Be patient because, like Bob says, some issues take longer to resolve than others. If you are curious about where things stand, you may want to just send him an e-mail asking the status of your issues.


Good luck, you will not be disappointed. These are fantasic products with service second to none.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it better to get them by phone? They sure don't respond to e-mail in a timely fashion.



My experience with all forms of tech support - is if you have

a problem and need a response - *GET ON THE PHONE.*


I spent well over an hour on the phone today with Adobe.

We got the problem resolved in Real-Time.


When I first got my D2 - I had some dumb cockpit errors.

I picked up the phone and talked with Nick and in less than

30 minutes - all my own screw ups were fixed.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What sort of experience have people had with Anthem technical support? My experience has NOT been good.
> 
> 
> I sent them an e-mail about my inability to get sound from the HDMI connection on a new AVM 40. When I didn't hear back after a couple of days, I sent another e-mail requesting that they please respond. Then I did hear from Nick who asked me to check some things, get back to him, and then based on my report he would take it to the next step. Well, I sent the e-mail back several days ago and have not yet heard back.
> 
> 
> Is it better to get them by phone? They sure don't respond to e-mail in a timely fashion.



With the recent problem I had with my brand new D2, I made three calls to the Anthem Tech Support number over a 24 hour period. Each time Nick answered the phone directly, with no "eternal hold" time. He was direct and helpful. I would go off and try what he suggested, call back and carry on from there. The 3rd call was a combination of reporting back and Nick setting up for my dealer to get a replacement. No escalation, no need for him to get "permission" to replace my unit.


Frankly, with my previous experiences with outsourced tech support ("reboot your computer", "reinstall Windows") I was astounded at the quick, direct access to a more-than-competent individual with the authority to make decisions. That Anthem can provide that level of support with one person says that they must get a *very* low percentage of tech support calls from their customer base (maybe partly due to this forum, but it must be due principally to the quality level of the products they ship).


I would also add that the degree of back-and-forth information exchange on one call with Nick would have easily taken a dozen emails. I agree with drhankz -- call Nick, do not write!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would also add that the degree of back-and-forth information exchange on one call with Nick would have easily taken a dozen emails. I agree with drhankz -- call Nick, do not write!



PERFECTLY Articulated - Thanks *3no* and Thanks to Nick and

Anthem for NOT OUTSOURCING Tech Support.


----------



## TomHuffman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My guess is that the AVM-40 is a new enough product that they are trying to sort out whether it is a design flaw, a flaw in your particular unit, or just some new symptom of source device produced problems that they haven't encountered up to now with the AVM-50 and D2.



That sounds reasonable to me, but I guess I would have liked to have heard that from them. Having worked on a technical support desk, I'm fairly easy-going about these things, but if you can't immediately solve a problem it's important that you communicate to a customer that at least he's not being ignored. That's a fairly low standard that was not met in this case.


I'll take the consensus advice here and try to get them on the phone.


----------



## DreamCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That sounds reasonable to me, but I guess I would have liked to have heard that from them. Having worked on a technical support desk, I'm fairly easy-going about these things, but if you can't immediately solve a problem it's important that you communicate to a customer that at least he's not being ignored. That's a fairly low standard that was not met in this case.
> 
> 
> I'll take the consensus advice here and try to get them on the phone.



Wow.... have you ever sent an email to the likes of Denon or Pioneer or Krell or Lexicon or Sony or..... you get the idea right.

You'll be lucky to get a reply..... ever.


dc


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My experience with all forms of tech support - is if you have
> 
> a problem and need a response - *GET ON THE PHONE.*



This applies to averything










I had issues with my DVDO VP50 and believe me it is a lot quicker when you call...


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With the recent problem I had with my brand new D2, I made three calls to the Anthem Tech Support number over a 24 hour period. Each time Nick answered the phone directly, with no "eternal hold" time. He was direct and helpful. I would go off and try what he suggested, call back and carry on from there. The 3rd call was a combination of reporting back and Nick setting up for my dealer to get a replacement. No escalation, no need for him to get "permission" to replace my unit.
> 
> 
> Frankly, with my previous experiences with outsourced tech support ("reboot your computer", "reinstall Windows") I was astounded at the quick, direct access to a more-than-competent individual with the authority to make decisions. That Anthem can provide that level of support with one person says that they must get a *very* low percentage of tech support calls from their customer base (maybe partly due to this forum, but it must be due principally to the quality level of the products they ship).
> 
> 
> I would also add that the degree of back-and-forth information exchange on one call with Nick would have easily taken a dozen emails. I agree with drhankz -- call Nick, do not write!



This is why we praise Anthem customer support. You could talk directly over the phone with knowledgeable peoples like Nick. Try to do that with Sony.


----------



## Randall Morton

I am new to this thread and also the D2. I should have mine in a couple of days. I also am on the prebuy for the JVC RS1 and should be getting it in the near future.


I don't know if anyone else here has an RS1 or if anyone is following the discussions about the RS1 colors being oversaturated. This problem at the current time is uncorrectable without an external video processor.


Does anyone know if the D2 video processor will be able to correct this problem and what other tools are needed if any to get the color primaries adjusted correctly?


----------



## TomHuffman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow.... have you ever sent an email to the likes of Denon or Pioneer or Krell or Lexicon or Sony or..... you get the idea right.
> 
> You'll be lucky to get a reply..... ever.



My experience with technical support desks of large companies--not necessarily these companies in particular--is that I generally receive a reply within 24 - 48hrs.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am new to this thread and also the D2. I should have mine in a couple of days. I also am on the prebuy for the JVC RS1 and should be getting it in the near future.
> 
> 
> I don't know if anyone else here has an RS1 or if anyone is following the discussions about the RS1 colors being oversaturated. This problem at the current time is uncorrectable without an external video processor.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if the D2 video processor will be able to correct this problem and what other tools are needed if any to get the color primaries adjusted correctly?



I have the RS1 on order as well, and am considering the D2 (or AVM50). As for correcting the primaries on the RS1, you would need to be able to independently adjust each of the colors (red, green and blue). I doubt that the D2 has this flexibility, but I will join you in asking the question of our resident experts here!


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As for correcting the primaries on the RS1, you would need to be able to independently adjust each of the colors (red, green and blue). I doubt that the D2 has this flexibility



Don't be so sure about that. I'm bugging Nick about that exactly since 2 or 3 months, and almost every weeks!










People in here should all send that request to Nick also. If we flood him with e-mails, knowing him, he will probably try to do it ASAP.










Seriously. Nick told me they were really considering adding controls over the primaries also to go along the custom gamma curves in the D2/AVM50. I really think it's the next step and something really important to have in the D2/AVM50.


So send him an official request also!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am new to this thread and also the D2. I should have mine in a couple of days. I also am on the prebuy for the JVC RS1 and should be getting it in the near future.
> 
> 
> I don't know if anyone else here has an RS1 or if anyone is following the discussions about the RS1 colors being oversaturated. This problem at the current time is uncorrectable without an external video processor.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if the D2 video processor will be able to correct this problem and what other tools are needed if any to get the color primaries adjusted correctly?



The D2 provides the ability to apply custom Gamma curves for each of the primary colors independently. This can be used to correct for errors in the display's own color ramps. But if the primary colors, color decoder, or color temperature of the display itself are faulty, then there's only so much you can do externally. To give you an extreme idea, suppose your display was faulty and the blue color primary was actually green. Obviously there is nothing you can do in an input signal to make blue work properly, because there is no blue to be had.


The custom Gamma Correction stuff is accessed through a Windows PC utility provided by Anthem. Please note, the eye is VERY sensitive to errors in the Gamma curvse, so you can significantly reduce the quality of your imaging if you don't know what you are doing. To properly adjust Gamma curves you will need a color light sensor. Since you are using a projector you need a sensor that will handle ambient light measurements such as the Eye One as opposed to a sensor that only works when placed on a light emitting surface such as a plama or LCD screen.


The D2 also provides the ability to do color and tint adjustment for each source device separately. It is by no means ideal to use these controls to handle errors in the display, but it will likely be safer to start with these.


Finally, depending upon the nature of the error in the projector, it may be possible to get partway to a solution by deliberately setting the D2's video output to the "wrong" color space.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't be so sure about that. I'm bugging Nick about that exactly since 2 or 3 months, and almost every weeks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People in here should all send that request to Nick also. If we flood him with e-mails, knowing him, he will probably try to do it ASAP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously. Nick told me they were really considering adding controls over the primaries also to go along the custom gamma curves in the D2/AVM50. I really think it's the next step and something really important to have in the D2/AVM50.
> 
> 
> So send him an official request also!













I will contact Nick about this and make an outright committment: if he does this, I WILL buy either the D2 or AVM50....GUARANTEED!!!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't be so sure about that. I'm bugging Nick about that exactly since 2 or 3 months, and almost every weeks!



Come On GUYS - If your PJ is screwed up - WHY put the burden

of correctly the problem on ANY VP?


I have been tuning up CRT PJs for 10 years. The Adjustments belong

in the PJ not the VP. How any PJ interprets the input signal can be

totally non-linear. Trying to make an external VP know about such

nonlinearities is like asking your COMPUTER to pick the winning lottery

number. In fact your winning lottery ticket is more predictable that

trying to guess how any PJ is going to process complex video signals.


----------



## LEVESQUE

drhankz


The upcoming Lumagen Radiance, Crystalio and alot of other high-end external scalers are doing it already or going in that direction anyway. Every serious scaler should be, or will be, able to do it.


BTW, did you knew that the Ruby CMS is flawed and working in 8 bits only? It's not a true CMS, so being able to do it in the scaler is really important, even for you.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz
> 
> 
> The upcoming Lumagen Radiance, Crystalio and alot of other high-end external scalers are doing it already or going in that direction anyway. Every serious scaler should be, or will be, able to do it.
> 
> 
> BTW, did you knew that the Ruby CMS is flawed and working in 8 bits only? It's not a true CMS, so being able to do it in the scaler is really important, even for you.



What RUBY - I'm beta testing the Diamond


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't be so sure about that. I'm bugging Nick about that exactly since 2 or 3 months, and almost every weeks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People in here should all send that request to Nick also. If we flood him with e-mails, knowing him, he will probably try to do it ASAP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously. Nick told me they were really considering adding controls over the primaries also to go along the custom gamma curves in the D2/AVM50. I really think it's the next step and something really important to have in the D2/AVM50.
> 
> 
> So send him an official request also!



I did!










Seriously, having that would put the D2 ahead of some VP such as the VP50.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz
> 
> 
> The upcoming Lumagen Radiance, Crystalio and alot of other high-end external scalers are doing it already or going in that direction anyway. Every serious scaler should be, or will be, able to do it.
> 
> 
> BTW, did you knew that the Ruby CMS is flawed and working in 8 bits only? It's not a true CMS, so being able to do it in the scaler is really important, even for you.



Even more if it is done in 10-12 bits.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What RUBY - I'm beta testing the Diamond



Good to know.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Even more if it is done in 10-12 bits.



Come on guys - you are suppose to be Techie Nerds here on AVS.


I don't care if a VP does 64 bit color processing. If the PJ only handles

8 bits - it does not matter what you do outside of the PJ.


Garbage in equals garbage out.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BTW, did you knew that the Ruby CMS is flawed and working in 8 bits only?



I would rather have my Ruby processing 8 bits of data than

the JVC which every time it powers up uses a different processing

algorithm. How is any VP going to compensate for that?


OH WAIT - there is actually a Electrical Engineering term and

circuit for that - it is called FUZZY LOGIC.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't be so sure about that. I'm bugging Nick about that exactly since 2 or 3 months, and almost every weeks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People in here should all send that request to Nick also. If we flood him with e-mails, knowing him, he will probably try to do it ASAP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously. Nick told me they were really considering adding controls over the primaries also to go along the custom gamma curves in the D2/AVM50. I really think it's the next step and something really important to have in the D2/AVM50.
> 
> 
> So send him an official request also!




I will do my part. That would be great. Thanks guys.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Come on guys - you are suppose to be Techie Nerds here on AVS.
> 
> 
> I don't care if a VP does 64 bit color processing. If the PJ only handles
> 
> 8 bits - it does not matter what you do outside of the PJ.
> 
> 
> Garbage in equals garbage out.



It reduce rounding errors in the VP.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> the JVC which every time it powers up uses a different processing
> 
> algorithm.



Can you clarify that one?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you clarify that one?



It some BUG I have been reading about. Every time it powers

up the color settings which you might have thought were good

last time are NOT.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would rather have my Ruby processing 8 bits of data than
> 
> the JVC which every time it powers up uses a different processing
> 
> algorithm.



The problem you are talking about is only when using RGB. Since I'm only using YCbCr, I don't really care.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The problem you are talking about is only when using RGB. Since I'm only using YCbCr, I don't really care.



COOL - I'm Happy to hear your don't have the problem.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The problem you are talking about is only when using RGB. Since I'm only using YCbCr, I don't really care.



Correct. And I don't believe it has anything to do with powering up the projector. When are you getting yours Alain?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Correct. And I don't believe it has anything to do with powering up the projector. When are you getting yours Alain?



I'm sure I did read on the JVC thread here - it is on power-up!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm sure I did read on the JVC thread here - it is on power-up!



I will take your word for it. What you are saying certainly does make sense. JVC is working on a fix for this per Greg Rogers.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will take your word for it. What you are saying certainly does make sense. JVC is working on a fix for this per Greg Rogers.



I agree JVC is working on a FIX.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm sure I did read on the JVC thread here - it is on power-up!



Originally Posted by gregr

"... here are a couple of tips for setting up your system when the RS-1's start to be delivered.


#1 When sending HD digital signals (720p, 1080i, 1080p) to the RS-1, i.e. using its HDMI inputs, *use digital YCbCr signals and not digital RGB signals (i.e. from a DVI output) to avoid color matrix conversion errors (mixed Rec 601/Rec 709 matrices)* .


#2 When sending SD analog signals (480i/p, 576i/p) to the RS-1, *use YPbPr signals and not RGB signals to avoid color matrix conversion errors* (mixed Rec 709/Rec 601 matrices).


#3 Be sure to adjust the Color control with test patterns when using analog YPbPr signals to avoid over saturation.


I've informed JVC of these issues and they are working to correct them."


So no problems with YCbCr. Only RGB.


----------



## FilmMixer

With Nicks help, I finally got my D2 back up and running.... I had to open it up, but it was kind of cool to see some of the inner workings of the unit..


Even more surprising, with the complete hard reset, motherboard restore and the like, was that the unit came back from the dead with all of my settings intact... really cool..


Glad to have my D2 back after 2 days... and thanks to all that sent files and their help my way... greatly appreciated.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With Nicks help, I finally got my D2 back up and running.... I had to open it up, but it was kind of cool to see some of the inner workings of the unit..
> 
> 
> Even more surprising, with the complete hard reset, motherboard restore and the like, was that the unit came back from the dead with all of my settings intact... really cool..
> 
> 
> Glad to have my D2 back after 2 days... and thanks to all that sent files and their help my way... greatly appreciated.



You had to open her up?










Why was that required?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You had to open her up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why was that required?



To Get to the FACTORY ONLY







RESET BUTTON?


Now Marc knows where it is and if he tells us - Nick WIll have to KILL HIM


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To Get to the FACTORY ONLY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RESET BUTTON?
> 
> 
> Now Marc knows where it is and if he tells us - Nick WIll have to KILL HIM



In that case, COME ON Marc, where the heck is it!?!?!?!?


----------



## Kris Deering

The RS-1 clips head and toe room with YCbCr. At least with a 4:2:2 input. Are you using a 4:4:4 setting Levesque?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You had to open her up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why was that required?



My computer mysteriously rebooted in the middle of the upgrade, and the D2 wasn't happy.. it stopped poweing up and wouldn't respond to the flash eraser utility....


I suspect what Nick had me do wasn't a full wipe/reset as my settings were fully intact, and the reset was for the loading/flash/EPROM part of the motherboard...


I don't think it's any secret... you have to remove the cover and short out two jumpers on the mother board and then apply power, and I suspect that if you did it under normal circumsatnces, all you would have to do would be to reinstall software....


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My computer mysteriously rebooted in the middle of the upgrade, and the D2 wasn't happy.. it stopped poweing up and wouldn't respond to the flash eraser utility....
> 
> 
> I suspect what Nick had me do wasn't a full wipe/reset as my settings were fully intact, and the reset was for the loading/flash/EPROM part of the motherboard...
> 
> 
> I don't think it's any secret... you have to remove the cover and short out two jumpers on the mother board and then apply power, and I suspect that if you did it under normal circumsatnces, all you would have to do would be to reinstall software....



As author/contributor for two if not three of my all time, preferred reference disks I am pleased that you are joining this illustrious club! With all the ups and downs of both the technological leaps and teething challenges I can reiterate that to THIS day I continue to discover new heights of enjoyment with the D2.


In a sense I am looking forward to your specific observations as to how faithfully the D2 helps to reveal your work on these films with the final result. Most of us in this particular thread are in pursuit of hearing and seeing what the authors had in mind when they create their art in the first place. You are in my mind one of the masters involved with this art form and we are privileged to have you join us!


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am pleased that you are joining this illustrious club!
> 
> 
> Peter



FlimMaker [Marc] is not just joining the club.


Marc is the one who convinced me to buy a D2.


Marc was an EARLY EARLY Adopter.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FlimMaker [Marc] is not just joining the club.
> 
> 
> Marc is the one who convinced me to buy a D2.
> 
> 
> Marc was an EARLY EARLY Adopter.




Well then Hank, thats even better........actually I think thats where I first met him!!!!!!! SOOOooo, that would be it for long term memory....wonder whats next.....I forget


Peter


----------



## Randall Morton

I sent an email to Nick. He basically replied that control over the primaries belonged in the projector and that users of the RS1 must not have looked at the correct menu because it was there. He also said that this was a very low priority for the D2 and that he had seen the RS1 and that he thought that most anyone would be very happy with the picture the way it was.


I replied to him that the controls appeared to be there but actually weren't and that I thought that there were quite a few people that would like this feature. I'm not expecting it from the tone of his reply I doubt this will be a feature anytime in the near future.


I will wait for Greg Rogers review of the RS1. Maybe the color saturation is not that big of a deal on the RS1, I haven't seen it. I will probably make up my mind depending on what Greg Rogers review says or until the time I can actually see one.


----------



## mintakaX

Well I did it. I just bought a D2. I was too late to get the demo model I was originally thinking of, but they sold me a new one at the original discounted price (they deliver and set it up as well !). I guess it will take 4-6 weeks to get it in. I can feel the guilt already starting to set in. At least I have a month to break it to my wife







.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I sent an email to Nick. He basically replied that control over the primaries belonged in the projector and that users of the RS1 must not have looked at the correct menu because it was there. He also said that this was a very low priority for the D2 and that he had seen the RS1 and that he thought that most anyone would be very happy with the picture the way it was.
> 
> 
> I replied to him that the controls appeared to be there but actually weren't and that I thought that there were quite a few people that would like this feature. I'm not expecting it from the tone of his reply I doubt this will be a feature anytime in the near future.
> 
> 
> I will wait for Greg Rogers review of the RS1. Maybe the color saturation is not that big of a deal on the RS1, I haven't seen it. I will probably make up my mind depending on what Greg Rogers review says or until the time I can actually see one.



As good or bad as one might perceive Nick's Reply - he is correct.

I stated this in a previous post in this forum and I did get flack

for my opinion. But it really does belong in the PJ. I can understand

it being a low priority.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mintakaX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I did it. I just bought a D2. I was too late to get the demo model I was originally thinking of, but they sold me a new one at the original discounted price (they deliver and set it up as well !). I guess it will take 4-6 weeks to get it in. I can feel the guilt already starting to set in. At least I have a month to break it to my wife
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



If you have the rest of the system, Video and Audio to benefit

from the D2 - Your Wife is going to CHEER. Mine said WOW and

has enjoyed every minute of our new toys [GRIN]! And I had

a High-End Theater to start with. But it only got better.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As good or bad as one might perceive Nick's Reply - he is correct.
> 
> I stated this in a previous post in this forum and I did get flack
> 
> for my opinion. But it really does belong in the PJ. I can understand
> 
> it being a low priority.



I never disagreed, but it would be a nice feature for anyone purchasing the RS1.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mintakaX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I did it. I just bought a D2. I was too late to get the demo model I was originally thinking of, but they sold me a new one at the original discounted price (they deliver and set it up as well !). I guess it will take 4-6 weeks to get it in. I can feel the guilt already starting to set in. At least I have a month to break it to my wife
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Yes I can understand the feelings of guilt -- of having missed out on the demo unit and thus having to make your wife wait a month.... (grin!)


Welcome to the "silly grins and hopping up and down in glee" club!


There's probably a month's worth of reading in this thread to keep you busy.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I sent an email to Nick. He basically replied that control over the primaries belonged in the projector and that users of the RS1 must not have looked at the correct menu because it was there. He also said that this was a very low priority for the D2 and that he had seen the RS1 and that he thought that most anyone would be very happy with the picture the way it was.
> 
> 
> I replied to him that the controls appeared to be there but actually weren't and that I thought that there were quite a few people that would like this feature. I'm not expecting it from the tone of his reply I doubt this will be a feature anytime in the near future.



Thanks for the info. I am still going to send an email as well. Can't hurt.



> Quote:
> I will wait for Greg Rogers review of the RS1. Maybe the color saturation is not that big of a deal on the RS1, I haven't seen it. I will probably make up my mind depending on what Greg Rogers review says or until the time I can actually see one.



Smart move. There is definitely a lot of anticipation regarding Greg's review of the RS1! Interesting that Nick has seen the RS1 and apparently liked what he saw.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I never disagreed, but it would be a nice feature for anyone purchasing the RS1.



Exactly.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I never disagreed, but it would be a nice feature for anyone purchasing the RS1.



Features are usually useful for at least some owners, but there's a real balancing act that should be going on here.


You only have 220 steps each of R, G, and B values per pixel (not counting Blacker than Black nor Peak White data). Correcting for deficiencies in the display device means loss of some of those since your only choice for adjusting a given value you are going to transmit to the display is to raise it up to a higher value or to lower it down to a lower value which loses that step. Even if you squish all the steps above or below it to make room you are still going to lose out SOMEPLACE because the bottom and top have no place to go. Every pixel you transmit to the display has to fit into one of those 220 pigeon-holes for each of R, G, and B. If you start trying to move the pigeon-holes around you are going to lose some holes because you can't represent a step smaller than "1".


And that means that the more you do trying to correct for display deficiencies in the source the more you lose in your ability to retain the information content in the final, displayed picture.


Sometimes the balance is worth it. But the better solution really is to get the display to do what it is supposed to do correctly.


Adjustment inside the display works better because you can change what the end points of the data range produce (rather than just throwing away steps) and you can use more data bits in your internal processing for carrying along the results of non-linearities in the processing.


--------------------------------------------------


The bottom line is that if the display is screwed up there's only so much the Anthem or any other video processor can do towards correcting that before the imaging starts to suffer in other ways.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




Bob Pariseau said:


> Features are usually useful for at least some owners, but there's a real balancing act that should be going on here.
> 
> 
> You only have 220 steps each of R, G, and B values per pixel (not counting Blacker than Black nor Peak White data). Correcting for deficiencies in the display device means loss of some of those since your only choice for adjusting a given value you are going to transmit to the display is to raise it up to a higher value or to lower it down to a lower value which loses that step. Even if you squish all the steps above or below it to make room you are still going to lose out SOMEPLACE because the bottom and top have no place to go. Every pixel you transmit to the display has to fit into one of those 220 pigeon-holes for each of R, G, and B. If you start trying to move the pigeon-holes around you are going to lose some holes because you can't represent a step smaller than "1".
> 
> 
> And that means that the more you do trying to correct for display deficiencies in the source the more you lose in your ability to retain the information content in the final, displayed picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Apart from the fact that you appear on this issue, at least, in agreement with Hank is almost frightening!!
> 
> Your explanation of the delineation of appropriate responsibilities between the projector and the AV processor is one of the most cogent descriptions I have read on the subject. Well done sir! Thank you.
> 
> 
> Peter
> 
> ]


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Features are usually useful for at least some owners, but there's a real balancing act that should be going on here.
> 
> 
> You only have 220 steps each of R, G, and B values per pixel (not counting Blacker than Black nor Peak White data). Correcting for deficiencies in the display device means loss of some of those since your only choice for adjusting a given value you are going to transmit to the display is to raise it up to a higher value or to lower it down to a lower value which loses that step. Even if you squish all the steps above or below it to make room you are still going to lose out SOMEPLACE because the bottom and top have no place to go. Every pixel you transmit to the display has to fit into one of those 220 pigeon-holes for each of R, G, and B. If you start trying to move the pigeon-holes around you are going to lose some holes because you can't represent a step smaller than "1".
> 
> 
> And that means that the more you do trying to correct for display deficiencies in the source the more you lose in your ability to retain the information content in the final, displayed picture.
> 
> 
> Sometimes the balance is worth it. But the better solution really is to get the display to do what it is supposed to do correctly.
> 
> 
> Adjustment inside the display works better because you can change what the end points of the data range produce (rather than just throwing away steps) and you can use more data bits in your internal processing for carrying along the results of non-linearities in the processing.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that if the display is screwed up there's only so much the Anthem or any other video processor can do towards correcting that before the imaging starts to suffer in other ways.
> 
> --Bob




That is an excellent summary Bob! Even if people don't have experience with adjusting video in the manner you discuss above, a very similar analogy would be understood by people who use "curves" and "levels" controls in Photoshop. The same principals apply.


Even so, I believe that it is fairly safe to say that consumers who purchase upper end audio/video items such as the D2 or AVM50 will realize the limitations and consequences of attempting to compensate for a deficiency in the display through a VP (and probably also be smart enough to know to hire an expert ISF calibrator if not confident enough themselves), so it doesn't make a lot of sense to NOT have the ability for some of these additional adjustments simply out of concern that they might make matters worse.


I don't think anybody is claiming that it wouldn't be better if ALL of the adjustments could be made in the display itself. But the fact is that there are many displays where this is NOT possible, so additional help from a VP, used sparingly and with knowledge, can definitely be useful. More options = more better as far as I am concerned.


----------



## LEVESQUE

Bob.


Why then can the PixelMagic Crystalio II, an external scaler based on the same Gennum chip, and in direct competiton with the D2, properly do it?


----------



## Randall Morton

I responded to Nick and he suggested I use The Live Video Settings Editor which includes gamma correction both as overall and as separate RGB adjustments. I'm not sure how much this will help with the oversaturation problem of the RS1 but maybe a good technician can use what is available and shift the saturation down a bit.


I'm not a technician or even close, but I don't really think these tools are going to do the trick. I'm hoping the RS1 oversaturation problem is really not too bad. After reading some other threads it seems like it may be a problem to adjust using some of the other dedicated video processors as well.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Meanwhile the HTPC stuff could very well be EDID related. We've had several reports here that the Gefen DVI Detective product is very helpful getting around such issues.



Bought one - HTPC via DVI/HDMI is now rock solid. Thanks, Bob.


I'll also let Nick know that the D2 is not providing EDID when that input is deselected, i.e. the D2 needs to duplicate the function of the DVI Detective.


----------



## rudolpht

Any word from the folks converting to analog on the Tivo S3. Smooth sailing? 11g isn't supposed to help this one, but I'm not showing S3 anomalies (at the moment ...).


----------



## FilmMixer

One of the things that the 1.11g software fixed for me is handshaking issues with my DirecTV H20 HD reciever using HDMI... no more issues so far.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob.
> 
> 
> Why then can the PixelMagic Crystalio II, an external scaler based on the same Gennum chip, and in direct competiton with the D2, properly do it?



Of COURSE you can do it. It's just math. The question is, what other damage are you doing to the image when you start trying to correct for the deficiencies of the display?


Understand that there are some things you can't do by changing the input values to the display. If full range green is too hot compared to full range red and blue for example, you can't raise red or blue because the input signal doesn't GO beyond full range.


All you can do is lower green in the input signal -- squish the dynamic range of green data going to the display -- send LESS than full range to the display. That gets things back in balance again but you've now thrown away some steps of green (color depth) compared to what you can still do with red and blue.


If the display has its own (functional) controls, then you can change the top end of green (or possibly red and blue, or possibly the combo of the three) without limiting the fineness of the incoming data.


That's just one example.


-----------------------------------


If the display doesn't have useful controls, and if the display's problems are bad enough, then adjusting the input signal to compensate may give you a more pleasing result. That's the balance I was talking about. But it likely is not going to be as good as if the display did its job properly to begin with (or could be adjusted to do so). The difference will be measureable. That too is just math. Whether it is also visible is another story.


Setting up a problematic display is all about compromises. If extra features in the video processor gives you more flexibility, or more intuitive control, then there are more tools you can bring to bear and that may lead to better compromises. But don't confuse massaging the input data with actually fixing the problem in the display itself.


-----------------------------------------------


I don't know the particular problem you folks are trying to solve in this new projector, but the discussion here has been about things like changing the color primaries. That's a job best handled in the display, and only handled externally at risk of doing other image damage.


The point is, adjusting the input signal to the display -- which is all an external video processor can do -- is NOT THE SAME as the types of adjustments a calibrator would try to do using controls inside the display itself -- in its driver circuits and its own, internal video processing. This is particularly true for modern displays that do more than 8 bit math in their internal processing path.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If the display doesn't have useful controls, and if the display's problems are bad enough, then adjusting the input signal to compensate may give you a more pleasing result. That's the balance I was talking about.




I don't think the "problems" are that bad based on reviews and posts I have read from people I know and trust. But I think the above quote summarizes the position of those who want these additional controls in the D2....since *adjusting the input signal to compensate may give you a more pleasing result*.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't think the "problems" are that bad based on reviews and posts I have read from people I know and trust. But I think the above quote summarizes the position of those who want these additional controls in the D2....since *adjusting the input signal to compensate may give you a more pleasing result*.



Well 4 out of 5 dentists agree that people like features -- all features. [They also agree you should avoid the 5th dentist.]


My goal in this has been to try to clarify that adding such stuff to the Anthem is not a real substitute for getting the display to do the right thing. But bandaids certainly have their place. Depending upon the nature of the display problem you are trying to fix, it may be an adequate substitute until you can get a better display or pry a fix out of the manufacturer of this display.


Just don't confuse the bandaid with a real fix. And understand that you may not see or know what you are missing if you could just get a real fix in the display and stop using the bandaid to cover up what the display is doing wrong.


Heck the Anthem has Bass and Treble controls and I don't think folks should spend much time using those either.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

Thanks for explaining things so well Bob. You made it where even I understand. We could complain to JVC but I doubt they care as long as these things are backordered and selling like hotcakes.


----------



## Vikingmd

This has probably been covered but I get flickering video with my AVM-50 and PS3. The video and audio kick in and out like it is having problems syncing. I was trying to watch Babel last night on blu-ray and it was so aggravating.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vikingmd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This has probably been covered but I get flickering video with my AVM-50 and PS3. The video and audio kick in and out like it is having problems syncing. I was trying to watch Babel last night on blu-ray and it was so aggravating.



Search the thread keyword PS3, you'll get some good advice. I know I fixed it, just can't remember since selling my PS3.


----------



## mintakaX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes I can understand the feelings of guilt -- of having missed out on the demo unit and thus having to make your wife wait a month.... (grin!)
> 
> 
> Welcome to the "silly grins and hopping up and down in glee" club!
> 
> 
> There's probably a month's worth of reading in this thread to keep you busy.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob and Hank-- You guys have given me a great idea...."Honey ? Guess what I finally bought for you ?" ........


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vikingmd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This has probably been covered but I get flickering video with my AVM-50 and PS3. The video and audio kick in and out like it is having problems syncing. I was trying to watch Babel last night on blu-ray and it was so aggravating.



I have no issues with my PS3 and D2. IIRC I have V1.32 firmware on the PS3. It seems that subsequent firmware causes more problems for BD playback than it fixes from what I've read.


larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vikingmd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This has probably been covered but I get flickering video with my AVM-50 and PS3. The video and audio kick in and out like it is having problems syncing. I was trying to watch Babel last night on blu-ray and it was so aggravating.



First make sure the output side of your Anthem video is solid. Select an Anthem input with nothing connected (or turned on). You should get an all blue screen. Bring up the Anthem's Setup menu. It should be solid, centered on the screen, red with white text. Exit that with the Back button. Bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" button). Again it should be centered on the screen, solid and crisp, grayish with black text and some colored icons. Go to the Patterns panel and bring up one of the test bar patterns. It should fill the screen. Exit with the Back button.


If you have problems with any of that, then your problem is on the output side of the Anthem and is independent of the PS3.


If all that is good then the video output side of your Anthem is set up correctly. Now you can check out the PS3 input stuff.


For the PS3 input, go to the Anthem's Setup / Source Setup menu for that input and confirm that HDMI Repeater = NO. This keeps the PS3 from attempting to interrogate your TV through the Anthem for copy protection and such.


Exit the Setup menu and bring up the Video Source Adjust menu for the PS3 input (hold "7" while PS3 is the selected input device). Go to the Output panel, scroll down to Frame Lock at the bottom, and confirm that it is OFF.


Now check your PS3 viewing again. If you still have problems it could be HDMI cable related -- some HDMI cables have trouble carrying the bandwidth of Blu-Ray video AND audio, or it could be software. Please let us know your Anthem software version (press Select once and find it at the right hand of the first line of status text) and you PS3 software version.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for explaining things so well Bob. You made it where even I understand. We could complain to JVC but I doubt they care as long as these things are backordered and selling like hotcakes.



I took a quick look through the projector thread, and at first blush it sounds to me like JVC screwed up selecting HDTV or SDTV color space according to the incoming resolution. The symptom would either be green push or green depression depending upon which way they get it wrong. It is not a subtle error in scenes with sufficient, natural green in them -- about 15% error as measured by the Avia color decoder test chart.


If that's what's going on, then the fix should be trivial for them to implement -- much simpler than if their color primaries are actually set incorrectly.


In the Anthem, you may be able to bandaid this problem simply by setting Setup / Video Output / Color Space to SDTV instead of HDTV or the other way. That would only work if you can predict when, and which way, the JVC is making the mistake. The Anthem also provides controls to force color space on the input side (Video Source Adjust menu for each input), but you shouldn't need to tweak those. If you change any of this, be sure to reset this stuff when JVC fixes their problem!


For more details on Color Space, see the Color Space links in the Technology and Terminology section of the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE

Bob.


Are we talking about the same thing? I'm not talking about the grayscale.










Don't forget that 95% (or more) of all the displays out there (projectors, TVs, etc) don't give you any CMS. So you're stuck with the colors you have, and can't do anything about it. People don't know that, sadly.


You can count on the fingers of 2 hands the displays with a properly done CMS. The Ruby for example is showing the exact same overly saturated neon like colors that the new JVC is showing (nothing different, same phenomena with both projectors), and the color correction program was not doing it properly. It's a new "trend", and everyone is now doing it like Sony... because you sell more displays with overly rich colors in a showroom...


The Ruby was not better or worst then the new JVC. But you know how it is on AVS. People are ALWAYS exagerating...










But those are not the exact colors. And with the Ruby, the new JVC, and 95% of the displays out there, you can't fix it. You need a good CMS in the scalers then to compensate.


That's why the Crystalio II and Lumagens are now doing it properly. We are compensating for 95% (or more) of the displays out there that are not showing the good colors... and there is nothing you CAN'T do about it in those displays...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

LEVESQUE,

Well as I've said, I don't know what problem you are trying to fix in that display.


Tell me specifically what you want the Anthem to do and I'll give you my opinion of whether any external solution can futz with that and not damage some other portion of the imaging.


Lower end TVs have had "red push" color decoder errors for years (along with faulty color temperature and crush of various sorts). You can bandaid that externally, but a real fix can only be done inside the TV. It sounds to me like you are asking for the same sort of thing for this projector.


And attempting to move the color primaries around externally can also only be done by loss of color depth or crushing some steps in the color ramp. Right? You've only got the YCbCr signal to send to the display. An external signal can't get to the controls in the display that are causing the problem. If the TV's color primaries are wrong, and you can't change them inside the TV, then all you can do externally is to limit the color gamut you send to the display to the subset range that can be reproduced by those faulty primaries and still lies within the HDTV color gamut.


Again its that balancing act. How big a bandaid can you apply externally before what you are seeing is the bandaid instead of the movie?


I'm not saying that bandaids are bad, just that they aren't the same as getting the TV fixed to work properly.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE

Bob.


That's what I'm talking about:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&highlight=cms


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob.
> 
> 
> That's what I'm talking about:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&highlight=cms



That thread is talking about color gamut conversion. That is better done in the display than in an external video processor -- at least until HDMI V1.3 with xvYCC and Deep Color are properly implemented, along with video processors that understand the idiosyncracies of individual displays. We are QUITE a way away from that.


If the Anthem is supposed to do this math (or any other external VP) you will be able to get accurate colors, but only within the intersection of the color gamuts involved, and with rounding errors due to the YCbCr bit depth. I.e., you may trade off more accurate colors for increased banding and some crush.


Doing the SAME math in the display works better because it can be done to higher bit depth, and in addition, the math approach could be tailored to the idiosyncracies of that specific display. Additionally, other controls in a well designed display can eliminate some of the problem to begin with.


An implementation in the Anthem would be a "bandaid" as I've described it -- in the sense that the result is not as good as getting the display to do the right thing itself. As with the Gamma correction stuff, people would need a proper color light sensor to have any chance of applying this bandaid to good effect. They would also likely need some help with the math -- a color space tool as described in the thread you link.


Nevertheless, the result might be better than living with the faulty display unmodified -- except perhaps for artificially de-saturating colors to mask the display's inadequacies. As long as people understand that having the Anthem apply the bandaid is not as good as getting a display that has no such problem I don't see any way adding the feature would hurt people. But I can understand why it is not a high priority for Anthem. I mean it's like saying Anthem should add barrel and pin-cushion distortion control to help people with CRT TVs that have faulty geometry and inadequate internal correction controls.


-----------------------------------------------------


I should point out that some of the discussion in the RS1 thread didn't strike me as having anything to do with this. It looked to me more like there was the simple HDTV/SDTV color space bug I mentioned above.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

I was informed by Nick that the tools for the "bandaid" fix are already available in the D2 for a calibrator with the proper knowledge and tools.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was informed by Nick that the tools for the "bandaid" fix are already available in the D2 for a calibrator with the proper knowledge and tools.



Yes. Those would be the Custom Gamma curves (gray scale and RGB) via the Live Video Settings Editor (Anthem software V1.10 or higher). The application of those to the problem of compensating for incorrect primary colors in the display would be a little math intensive I suspect for folks without a tool that undertands this is the type of control you are applying. But you can reduce green, for example, by simply rounding off the top of the Green Gamma curve so that it doesn't go all the way up.


I think what LEVESQUE is hoping for is something a little more intuitive. But it may be that all that is needed is for someone with one of the common tools, out there to document the procedure for implementing a color gamut conversion via the Anthem Gamma curves.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE

Bob.


I'm using the Eye-One Pro and CalMAN software, and I also have access to the Minolta CS200.


But since 95% of the displays out there don't have any CMS or any other ways to correct those problems, then it would be interesting for calibrators and professionnal installers to have access to something like that with the D2, since the Crystalio II and upcoming Lumagens will be able to do it.


I'm always trying to find ways to improve the D2 and to make it competitive with high-end scalers. That's the only reason I'm asking for this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob.
> 
> 
> I'm using the Eye-One Pro and CalMAN software, and I also have access to the Minolta CS200.
> 
> 
> But since 95% of the displays out there don't have any CMS or any other ways to correct those problems, then it would be interesting for calibrators and professionnal installers to have access to something like that with the D2, since the Crystalio II and upcoming Lumagens will be able to do it.
> 
> 
> I'm always trying to find ways to improve the D2 and to make it competitive with high-end scalers. That's the only reason I'm asking for this.



Sure, I understand.


Have you tried tackling this using your sensor and the RGB Custom Gamma curves?


It should be just a matter of figuring out which conversion matrix is appropriate to use to adjust Studio RGB to the gamut actually implemented in the non-adjustible TV. Ideally one matrix -- one set of linear equations -- will do the trick. If not, then your display is even more screwy than normal. The conversion math is, I believe, derived from your light sensor measurement of the actual color of pure R, G, and B at maximum input brightness (after adjusting Color Temperature as best you can in the TV as I recall), normalized, and then compared to the ideal primary values for the HDTV color space.


[Of course the result will be clipped at the extremes by the lesser of what Studio RGB presents as input and what your TV's color gamut can display. And the result will band/crush according to how much the color steps of Studio RGB get expanded or contracted.]


Then, you would need to apply that conversion matrix to the values you would otherwise use along each of the R, G, and B curves to implement the desired gamma power curve. The two corrections would thus be implemented together in the one set of curves. That is, where you might normally calculate a straightforward 2.2 gamma power curve using a pair of measurements at say 100 IRE and 20 IRE and then extrapolating the intermediate values, now you would modify that curve so that it is no longer just a power curve but also includes the linear transition between the two color gamuts.


Simply put, an input Studio RGB value of say 128, 128, 128 would be modified by the gamma power curve math to produce the desired non-linear light output result, and also modified by the gamut conversion matrix to adjust the location in color space. It's just that both types of math would be combined into the one set of three conversion curves normally just used for the gamma correction.


Now if your software understands you are using color gamma correction curves to do both of these, then it could be a lot simpler, derived directly from measurements by your software. Ideally you would use the test bar patterns generated by the Anthem itself for all measurements so that you have no source device bias to worry about.


The usual problem will be that you can't get EVERYTHING right simultaneously, particularly for low IRE levels. And that's where an ISF tech would start leaning on his knowledge of which compromises work best.


Depending upon whether or not the TV also has color decoder problems, the result might only work for YCbCr and not for RGB or vice versa. That's not a problem since the Anthem will take care of that conversion for you as necessary.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob.
> 
> 
> I'm using the Eye-One Pro and CalMAN software, and I also have access to the Minolta CS200.
> 
> 
> But since 95% of the displays out there don't have any CMS or any other ways to correct those problems, then it would be interesting for calibrators and professionnal installers to have access to something like that with the D2, since the Crystalio II and upcoming Lumagens will be able to do it.
> 
> 
> I'm always trying to find ways to improve the D2 and to make it competitive with high-end scalers. That's the only reason I'm asking for this.



I'm with Bob on this issue. Our focus, knowledge and enthusiasm should be aimed at JVC and Sony to be more accountable. They have to understand that it is in their competitive advantage to get it right. Further, they should be taken to and held to account for failing to deliver a standard for performance that a number of you on this forum have the capacity to properly asses.


This is appropriate to raise in this thread as I truly believe that this principle is alive and well at Anthem. There is no doubt in my mind that Nick et al at Anthem would have lept on the issue as top priority if it was seen to be in the AVPro's domain but it clearly is not and we now have a strong ally in our messaging attempts to put the high end projector manufacturers on notice!


To a man I believe that the D2 AVM50 owners believe, based on real in use assessments that this technology is not only the best available on the market today but is also (strangely) unique. There really isn't a competitor to the features list in a single box! Now give me a sincere recommendation for the next generation projector that fullfils its basic mandate to the extent that Bob Pariseau and Hank have suggested it should and I will preorder it now!


Having said that, the result of the 'ideal' projector better be a full generational leap ahead of the Ruby or I'm staying where I am. My point is that the JVC is a minor tweak over the Ruby (cost aside!) but if the projector folks were held accountable by the talent on this forum then we would all be ahead in applying the "tweaks' offered by the D2 to its best advantage.


Bob's point which I believe everyone understands should not be underestimated in its relevance to this group. I want allot from Anthem but I am willing to concede that we should support their available priorities to improve the device they are manufacturing and not the failings of basic responsibilities for other devices in the chain. They have so far gone waaaaay out of their way to accommodate a number of issues raised in this forum and I know we applaud them for it but lets not waste the value of our experience on the wrong target.


If this observation is too esoteric for some I apologize up front. I'll trade my Ruby for the next projector that passes muster by the majority of regulars in this thread BUT I challenge any of you to give me a better solution than my D2 in the marketplace or on the drawing boards for the near future..........Lets help Anthem keep it that way......for this we will all benefit!


Again Bob P ........... Well put!!!


Peter


----------



## LEVESQUE

Bob.


No, I didn't had any spare times lately.










But after reading what you just wrote, I think you will agree that it's tougher to do then it should.


And like you said it's not the JVC that is flawed, it's almost all the displays out there. It's the industry, since 95% or more of the displays out there don't have any CMS worth writing or talking for.


So, having more user friendly settings in the D2 (just like the Crystalio II and upcoming Lumagens have) would greatly benefit everyone serious about getting true and accurate colors, and not the colors the display designers wants you to look at.










Since the display industry wants to push those neon-like and overly saturated colors down our throats, they could at least give us the means to fix them the way we want. But they don't... That's why Lumagen and PixelMagic are trying to compensate.


----------



## Randall Morton

Since I haven't even used my D2 yet I don't have a grasp as to how a lot of this works and much of the tech talk is a bit over my knowledge level and I have to really work to understand it. Although I do think I understand the basic concepts.


According to Nick, the Live Video Settings Editor for the D2/AVM50 is the way to address RGB controls outside of the projector. I believe this would be the "bandaid fix".


As it is now you can add or remove points in the slope. Slope affects gain and position affects offset. With only two points on the graph this is easy to change the position up or down. When there is a curved graph or several points, then each one has to be moved individually and it becomes more difficult.


I didn't come up with this on my own, but this was explained to me by Nick. He also says he now has an idea about adding a lock function to the graph where it could be dragged in place to change the offset. I'm not a calibrator, but I can see how this may make things a bit easier.


Can't wait to get the RS1 and D2 set up and calibrated. Have to get the RS1 first and I'm still waiting like many others. This makes me feel really good about purchasing the Anthem. The support has been excellent and I haven't even begun to use it yet.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob.
> 
> 
> No, I didn't had any spare times lately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after reading what you just wrote, I think you will agree that it's tougher to do then it should.
> 
> 
> And like you said it's not the JVC that is flawed, it's almost all the displays out there. It's the industry, since 95% or more of the displays out there don't have any CMS worth writing or talking for.
> 
> 
> So, having more user friendly settings in the D2 (just like the Crystalio II and upcoming Lumagens have) would greatly benefit everyone serious about getting true and accurate colors, and not the colors the display designers wants you to look at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the display industry wants to push those neon-like and overly saturated colors down our throats, they could at least give us the means to fix them the way we want. But they don't... That's why Lumagen and PixelMagic are trying to compensate.



I honestly don't know how hard this really is for someone with a good grounding in what's going on, a proper color sensor, and some software to do the math. This is, after all, the sort of stuff ISF techs already have to do in TVs that have service menu controls even though they aren't organized as a "CMS".


I haven't actually explored the current user interface for this gamma curve stuff in Live Video Settings Editor. But I suspect that simplifying this in any meaningful way might mean adding a user interface that is specific to some particular software/sensor tool out there. Perhaps Anthem should make a deal with the EyeOne folks.


The math is not that complicated. But knowing how to:


1) Do the measurements properly, and

2) Enter the results in the way the Anthem wants them entered, and

3) Deal with the stuff that's still not quite right even after all that


*IS* tough. Item (3) is the real kicker. Even in the best situations ISF techs seldom run into a display where everything just falls into place. Instead, they have to use their experience to judge which errors can be tolerated in an effort to reduce or remove the errors that are more visible.


And of course that's why they get the big bucks.


------------------------------------------------------


I like the idea that the THX folks are going to start certifying displays. At the very least, that will give the manufacturers some cover when they engineer new product that's not so reliant on "torch mode settings" to sell.


What's really annoying, however, is that folks continue to buy faulty displays and then assume some other product can make it all right. The display manufacturers serving the home theater market need to be put on notice that the old trickery is not good enough any longer.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It some BUG I have been reading about. Every time it powers
> 
> up the color settings which you might have thought were good
> 
> last time are NOT.




I haven't experienced that.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I haven't experienced that.



When did you get a JVC RS1


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When did you get a JVC RS1




I play with a unit for a day.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I play with a unit for a day.



Did you have lots of fun?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is, after all, the sort of stuff ISF techs already have to do in TVs that have service menu controls even though they aren't organized as a "CMS"



That's the problem I'm talking about Bob. If you talk with alot of ISF techs, they will tell you that they often can't do anything at all, and that they can't fix those problems since there is no CMS and/or no access to the color decoders... and this happens in ALOT of popular displays on the market.


They just do the best they can ("band-aid") with the controls they have access to, but more often then not, they can't fix those problems fully without a true integrated CMS.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's the problem I'm talking about Bob. If you talk with alot of ISF techs, they will tell you that they often can't do anything at all, and that they can't fix those problems since there is no CMS and/or no access to the color decoders... and this happens in ALOT of popular displays on the market.
> 
> 
> They just do the best they can ("band-aid") with the controls they have access to, but more often then not, they can't fix those problems fully without a true integrated CMS.



Yes, I understand that. My point was that the difficulty of doing it with the currently existing stuff in the Anthem is probably not much different than doing it in a display where they happen to HAVE the necessary settings accessible -- setting aside that the results should be better if tackled inside such a display.


In either case, the complexity is probably beyond what the average owner would feel comfortable trying to undertake on his own.


So if Nick is correct, i.e., that the current curves cover what can be done in an external device, what's left is how far you go to make it easier to use (and what level of expertise you are targeting in any such new user interface). And of course the whole markteting problem of explaining to people that there's only so much you can do ANYWAY external to the display when the display, as manufactured, is actually screwed up and offers no internal fixes.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob.
> 
> 
> No, I didn't had any spare times lately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after reading what you just wrote, I think you will agree that it's tougher to do then it should.
> 
> 
> And like you said it's not the JVC that is flawed, it's almost all the displays out there. It's the industry, since 95% or more of the displays out there don't have any CMS worth writing or talking for.
> 
> 
> So, having more user friendly settings in the D2 (just like the Crystalio II and upcoming Lumagens have) would greatly benefit everyone serious about getting true and accurate colors, and not the colors the display designers wants you to look at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the display industry wants to push those neon-like and overly saturated colors down our throats, they could at least give us the means to fix them the way we want. But they don't... That's why Lumagen and PixelMagic are trying to compensate.



I'm with Levesque on this one. There is a reason that companies like Pixel Magic (The Crystalio 2) and Lumagen (upcoming Radiance) have, or will have, additional ability to attempt to compensate, to a degree, for inaccurate primaries in the display.


Is this the BEST was to correct for the error? No. Would it be better if the display had a full blown CMS? Yes. But as Levesque has pointed out, 95% of the displays out there, including front projectors, do NOT have this capability. Calling it a bandaid may be a perfectly accurate description of what is being done, but I still want access to the best bandaid possible!










Based on what Randall is saying, it sounds like Nick has given him some options via Live Video Settings Editor and gamma controls that may help with this issue, but I still don't think it is the same that the Crystalio 2 does. But it is great to hear that Nick is responsive to the issue and at least willing to give other options that may at least partially address the issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, inquiring minds want to know if there are any new rumors on when Anthem will issue a new, public software release. V1.11 is nearly 4 months old.....

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks

I'm looking to experiment with Anthems crossover settings for cinema speakers settings only.


I do have full range towers capable of going down to 29Hz and also use a Velodyne DD15 subwoofer.


While configuring the Anthem crossover using the advanced mode, I am confused with where to set a couple settings.


Let's say I want to set the crossover to 35Hz and above to the towers and bring the sub in accordingly.


Within the advanced setting menu, do the following settings appear correct?


Advanced settings-on

Front Xover-45Hz

Sub/LFE Xover-80

Bypass LFE Xover=no


Thanks,


Mark


----------



## Vikingmd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> First make sure the output side of your Anthem video is solid. Select an Anthem input with nothing connected (or turned on). You should get an all blue screen. Bring up the Anthem's Setup menu. It should be solid, centered on the screen, red with white text. Exit that with the Back button. Bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" button). Again it should be centered on the screen, solid and crisp, grayish with black text and some colored icons. Go to the Patterns panel and bring up one of the test bar patterns. It should fill the screen. Exit with the Back button.
> 
> 
> If you have problems with any of that, then your problem is on the output side of the Anthem and is independent of the PS3.
> 
> 
> If all that is good then the video output side of your Anthem is set up correctly. Now you can check out the PS3 input stuff.
> 
> 
> For the PS3 input, go to the Anthem's Setup / Source Setup menu for that input and confirm that HDMI Repeater = NO. This keeps the PS3 from attempting to interrogate your TV through the Anthem for copy protection and such.
> 
> 
> Exit the Setup menu and bring up the Video Source Adjust menu for the PS3 input (hold "7" while PS3 is the selected input device). Go to the Output panel, scroll down to Frame Lock at the bottom, and confirm that it is OFF.
> 
> 
> Now check your PS3 viewing again. If you still have problems it could be HDMI cable related -- some HDMI cables have trouble carrying the bandwidth of Blu-Ray video AND audio, or it could be software. Please let us know your Anthem software version (press Select once and find it at the right hand of the first line of status text) and you PS3 software version.
> 
> --Bob



Well, I have solid video coming from my Anthem and other input devices appear to work fine. Additionally I have the setup just like you mentioned Frame Lock Off HDMI repeater NO. I have software version 1.11 and am using Monoprice HDMI cables. Maybe this is because of the PS3 but i'm not sure. I tried to search PS3 but there are too many results.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm with Bob on this issue. Our focus, knowledge and enthusiasm should be aimed at JVC and Sony to be more accountable. They have to understand that it is in their competitive advantage to get it right. Further, they should be taken to and held to account for failing to deliver a standard for performance that a number of you on this forum have the capacity to properly asses.
> 
> 
> Peter



I would agree. I would be interested in "trading down" to a RS1 if it was calibratable by someone like WmP. That said, even with downward pricing and upward tech push, the RS1 is quite a bargain. At a bargain price JVC probably understood that the vast number of consumers want the contrast and vibrant picture at the cost point. Would folks run to the projector if a calibration capability added 1K to price. Who knows, but some folks would never "know better" or care.


It typically comes down to value. This is why I bought an AVM-50 vs a D2 (which I may regret at D3 time, but more likely I'll just sell it or "hammy down" it to another room and buy the next gen. The value proposition increases if you can get around a displays shortcomings, but in the assessment of the whole it's a free market and the balance is the choice of the buyer ultimately. Someone may have a D2 and a black and white 19" TV (kinda nuts) or but a great benefit:cost projector and do work arounds. I agree it would be nice to have color "right" for both HD & SD out of every box, but it does add cost that will multiply down the chain into the final price.


Sometimes companies do things intentionally so as to not undercut the value of it's higher priced products (







the shame of it).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vikingmd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I have solid video coming from my Anthem and other input devices appear to work fine. Additionally I have the setup just like you mentioned Frame Lock Off HDMI repeater NO. I have software version 1.11 and am using Monoprice HDMI cables. Maybe this is because of the PS3 but i'm not sure. I tried to search PS3 but there are too many results.



What you are seeing sounds very much like the PS3 is having trouble establishing the HDMI connection to the Anthem. It doesn't sound to me like you are doing anything wrong.


OK, I suggest at this point that you contact Anthem tech support. Anthem has test software releases, now up to V1.11g, and some of the items they have fixed could help with the PS3. Just explain to them what you are seeing and they'll know whether it would be worthwhile for you to try the software upgrade. If so, they'll mail it to you. You will need a windows PC, preferably one with a real serial port (as opposed to a usb/serial adapter) to do the software install.


If you have the specific model of HDMI cable you are using, tell them: They might know if they've seen any problems from that model for the high bandwidth stuff coming from the PS3.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So if Nick is correct, i.e., that the current curves cover what can be done in an external device, what's left is how far you go to make it easier to use (and what level of expertise you are targeting in any such new user interface).



Sure Bob. I like discussing those things with you. This thread so far has been so civil, it's something we don't see often on AVS anymore.







Everyone is nice and full of good intentions. We are helping each other nicely.


I will try to play with those curves alot more in the upcoming weeks and will post all my results for everyone to see. Bill at CalMAN told me that we may be able to calibrate the JVC directly with discrete codes... so we will see. And I will post my calibration results using the custom gamma curves in the D2.


It will be fun.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm looking to experiment with Anthems crossover settings for cinema speakers settings only.
> 
> 
> I do have full range towers capable of going down to 29Hz and also use a Velodyne DD15 subwoofer.
> 
> 
> While configuring the Anthem crossover using the advanced mode, I am confused with where to set a couple settings.
> 
> 
> Let's say I want to set the crossover to 35Hz and above to the towers and bring the sub in accordingly.
> 
> 
> Within the advanced setting menu, do the following settings appear correct?
> 
> 
> Advanced settings-on
> 
> Front Xover-45Hz
> 
> Sub/LFE Xover-80
> 
> Bypass LFE Xover=no
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Mark



The rule of thumb is that you want an octave of overlap between the crossover for a speaker and where your speaker stops working well. So you want the mains crossover at about twice the lowest frequency they are spec'ed to handle (or higher), and you want the sub crossover at about half the highest frequency it can handle (or lower).


Keeping that rule of thumb in mind, crossovers for home theater use generally work best around roughly 80Hz even if your speakers are capable of going well beyond that.


Understand that the crossover frequency is (roughly) where the Anthem starts rolling off the signal. It is not a sharp cutoff. That's why you want space between the crossover and what your speakers can handle. For example the signal going to the mains will become attenuated below the crossover frequency you select, but some signal will still get through below that point. But that's OK because you've set the crossover enough ABOVE what your main speakers can handle that what gets through BELOW the crossover is still something they can handle well.


Any signal that gets attenuated from the mains due to your crossover setting will be steered to the subwoofer -- attenuated according to ITS crossover setting -- so that you don't lose anything.


With advanced settings turned on, you can set the crossovers separately, and its perfectly OK for you to set them to different values.


Since your mains go down to 30Hz (rounding), you don't really want the crossover for the mains much below 60Hz. If your sub can handle up to 120Hz than a 60Hz crossover could work for it as well.


So you could use:


Advanced Settings = ON

Front Xover = 60Hz

Sub/LFE Xover = 60Hz


Now set that way you may lose some of the LFE channel. The LFE channel naturally goes up to between 100 and 120Hz (even though a lot of the most important content is down at more like 40Hz), and with the Sub/LFE crossover at 60Hz you are going to lose some of that. But you can fix that, if you need to by setting


Bypass LFE = ON


which will allow the LFE to go through to the subwoofer without first being attenuated by the sub crossover filter you've set in the Anthem at 60Hz. LFE Bypass should be considered any time you've set the sub crossover significantly below 80Hz.


You also want to make sure you have disabled the crossover in your DD-15 so that the DD-15 is not ALSO attenuating the signal before it plays it.


Alternatively, you might decide that the following settings work better for you:


Advanced Settings = ON

Front Xover = 60Hz

Sub/LFE Xover = 80Hz

Bypass LFE = OFF


Here you are taking advantage of the ability to set DIFFERENT crossover points. The signal to the mains will roll off starting at 60Hz (and bass will be steered to the sub). That bass will pass through the sub crossover without problem since the sub crossover is higher, and the crossover of 80Hz will let enough LFE pass that you needn't bother with the bypass either. Actually some ADDITIONAL bass from the main channels will ALSO go to the sub since the crossover points now overlap.


Your DD-15 can go high enough, of course, that this is no problem.


An overlap between the two crossovers increases bass in the overlap region. Alternatively you might decide to put a gap between the crossovers to reduce bass in the region between them. For example you might set the mains crossover to 70Hz and the sub crossover to 60Hz.


The impact of Polarity and Phase settings is also greatest in the vicinity of the crossovers.


You can play with all of this stuff and see exactly what affect you are having by using the DD-15's real time display.


For additional notes on how to set up with a DD-15 see my post on how I set things. You'll find a link to that in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would agree. I would be interested in "trading down" to a RS1 if it was calibratable by someone like WmP. That said, even with downward pricing and upward tech push, the RS1 is quite a bargain. At a bargain price JVC probably understood that the vast number of consumers want the contrast and vibrant picture at the cost point. Would folks run to the projector if a calibration capability added 1K to price. Who knows, but some folks would never "know better" or care.
> 
> 
> It typically comes down to value. This is why I bought an AVM-50 vs a D2 (which I may regret at D3 time, but more likely I'll just sell it or "hammy down" it to another room and buy the next gen. The value proposition increases if you can get around a displays shortcomings, but in the assessment of the whole it's a free market and the balance is the choice of the buyer ultimately. Someone may have a D2 and a black and white 19" TV (kinda nuts) or but a great benefit:cost projector and do work arounds. I agree it would be nice to have color "right" for both HD & SD out of every box, but it does add cost that will multiply down the chain into the final price.
> 
> 
> Sometimes companies do things intentionally so as to not undercut the value of it's higher priced products (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the shame of it).




Well put. I enjoy this forum and in particular the folks on this thread for the balanced perspectives that generally seem to emerge in a healthy discussion format. You are right and I am not in any way suggesting that Alain or Rob don't have a valid position. The JVC is a huge forward step in offering a close performance to the ruby and with this accomplishment at this price point we all win!


The elements that we are discussing however involve calibration skills and associated costs that are usually not seen or felt with a five thousand dollar projector. To me its like trying to convince someone that a well tuned Mini Cooper can equal the performance and experience of seven series BMW. Its not that some won't try to get there and hold allot of pride in trying but Bob's point is so fundamentally correct that there are some things that just won't fit no matter how hard we try.


At a bare minimum we need to acknowledge that even with expanded capabilities in CMS that the D2 might someday offer, moves us to a compromise from the truth. Its not simply a matter of pursuing an elusive ideal, as we can all be accused of that for being here in the first place, it is simply avoiding the notion that the capabilities we want added to the D2 really are an answer to the root cause of this problem.


But I still like what you said........made me want to run out and buy a RS1 just to join the club!


Peter


----------



## yatchaks

Bob,


I really appreciate the detailed answer. Very, very helpful.


Thank you,


Mark


----------



## Rob Tomlin

And on a completely different subject.............what's the latest status on room EQ?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did you have lots of fun?




Not enough time to really enjoy the unit. First contact with the product is that I am impressed, lots of potential.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sure Bob. I like discussing those things with you. This thread so far has been so civil, it's something we don't see often on AVS anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone is nice and full of good intentions. We are helping each other nicely.
> 
> 
> I will try to play with those curves alot more in the upcoming weeks and will post all my results for everyone to see. Bill at CalMAN told me that we may be able to calibrate the JVC directly with discrete codes... so we will see. And I will post my calibration results using the custom gamma curves in the D2.
> 
> 
> It will be fun.




Sounds like a lot of fun. Discrete codes for the RS1? I doubt.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sounds like a lot of fun. Discrete codes for the RS1? I doubt.



I just don't feel the RS1 is any step up from my Ruby and

might be even a small step down.


But at CES - I saw the RS1 - Live as well as the Prototype

of the Diamond - and that is a hands down easy decision.

I'm ordering my Diamond in September when Sony announces

it at CEDIA.


----------



## Will Binegar

Just got the D2 a couple of days ago and I (eventually) managed to get HDMI working for a Toshiba HD-XA2 HD-DVD player and DIRECTV 10-250 HD Tivo box. Removing the power cord from the D2 before connecting the HDMI cables (and possibly swapping in Blue Jeans HDMI cables) seems to have done the trick. I was surprised that RGB and Extended RGB outputs are the ones that work for me. Does anyone know the difference between these two choices? I have an Infocus 7210 and the cable to it is DVI, so I have an HDMI to DVI adapter plugged into the D2's HDMI output. At the projector end, there is a DVI to M1 adapter since Infocus uses the M1 rather than DVI or HDMI inputs.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just don't feel the RS1 is any step up from my Ruby and
> 
> might be even a small step down.
> 
> 
> But at CES - I saw the RS1 - Live as well as the Prototype
> 
> of the Diamond - and that is a hands down easy decision.
> 
> I'm ordering my Diamond in September when Sony announces
> 
> it at CEDIA.




Hank,

Have you had to change the bulb in the Ruby yet? If not when do you predict you will have to? If you have......How many hours? and was it difficult?


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hank,
> 
> Have you had to change the bulb in the Ruby yet? If not when do you predict you will have to? If you have......How many hours? and was it difficult?
> 
> 
> Peter



Still on ORIGINAL Bulb.


I'm hoping it lasts until I get my Diamond in September.


I do not know how long they are expected to last and I have

not looked recently. Last time I looked I think it was only

300 hours. I'll look tonight while I am ENJOYING







CASINO

Royale in the middle of a Blizzard.


As for easy - it looks trivial.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Still on ORIGINAL Bulb.
> 
> 
> I'm hoping it lasts until I get my Diamond in September.
> 
> 
> I do not know how long they are expected to last and I have
> 
> not looked recently. Last time I looked I think it was only
> 
> 300 hours. I'll look tonight while I am ENJOYING
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CASINO
> 
> Royale in the middle of a Blizzard.
> 
> 
> As for easy - it looks trivial.




OK and while you do that I'll watch Happy Feet and catch the first few frames of Children of Men.........without any snow!!!!!!I've had it moved south.......oooops, sorry Hank.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK and while you do that I'll watch Happy Feet and catch the first few frames of Children of Men.........without any snow!!!!!!I've had it moved south.......oooops, sorry Hank.



I don't do animated movies [GRIN]!


How many hours on your bulb?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Will Binegar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just got the D2 a couple of days ago and I (eventually) managed to get HDMI working for a Toshiba HD-XA2 HD-DVD player and DIRECTV 10-250 HD Tivo box. Removing the power cord from the D2 before connecting the HDMI cables (and possibly swapping in Blue Jeans HDMI cables) seems to have done the trick. I was surprised that RGB and Extended RGB outputs are the ones that work for me. Does anyone know the difference between these two choices? I have an Infocus 7210 and the cable to it is DVI, so I have an HDMI to DVI adapter plugged into the D2's HDMI output. At the projector end, there is a DVI to M1 adapter since Infocus uses the M1 rather than DVI or HDMI inputs.



DVI devices want RGB for home theater use and Extended RGB for connecting to computers. So what you want for output from the D2 to your display is, indeed, RGB (not Extended RGB or either form of YCbCr).


For more background read the links on "Data Format" in the collection of Terminology and Technology links in the first post of this thread.


Oh, and welcome to the club!

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't do animated movies [GRIN]!
> 
> 
> How many hours on your bulb?



I believe that I just hit 700.......there is a curve Hank, but its shallow enough that my vision is being dragged along with it so far. I haven't had to make any adjustments yet but I am probably on the border. I sincerely believe that the D2 has something to do with helping the longivity of the viewing experience but I couldn't prove it beyond a shadow of doubt.


Having said that I am also looking forward to updating from 1.10 as I will then be ready to contemplate an isf calibration but that will, in my mind, require a new bulb whose behaviour I can now predict with some experience. But I've decided to wait for the 1.2 final full prod release before proceeding. It sure would be nice to have the audio calib stuff but I'm prepared to wait untill its right!


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe that I just hit 700.......there is a curve Hank, but its shallow enough that my vision is being dragged along with it so far. I haven't had to make any adjustments yet but I am probably on the border. I sincerely believe that the D2 has something to do with helping the longivity of the viewing experience but I couldn't prove it beyond a shadow of doubt.
> 
> 
> Having said that I am also looking forward to updating from 1.10 as I will then be ready to contemplate an isf calibration but that will, in my mind, require a new bulb whose behaviour I can now predict with some experience. But I've decided to wait for the 1.2 final full prod release before proceeding. It sure would be nice to have the audio calib stuff but I'm prepared to wait untill its right!
> 
> 
> Peter



I agree - I would wait for the Final FW release for the D2.


I also agree I would not have a calibration done with an old bulb.


As for lamp life - I have seen numbers all over the map. Some

say as high as 3000 hours - but I doubt that. Probably 1200

is a more realistic number but I do not know that as a fact

either?


----------



## Rob Tomlin












^ Can somebody guess as to why I have this big-ass grin on my face right now?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ Can somebody guess as to why I have this big-ass grin on my face right now?



Are you also hopping up and down in glee?

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you also hopping up and down in glee?
> 
> --Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0










I know why! I know why!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0



I don't know WHY - But I like the ICON!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ Can somebody guess as to why I have this big-ass grin on my face right now?




Either you found a D2 our a RS1










Or both at the same time.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know why! I know why!



Why yes, yes you do! And I appreciate your help with this decision!













> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Either you found a D2 our a RS1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or both at the same time.



Alright, I will let the cat out of the bag!










I did order the D2! I've only been thinking about it since November, so it isn't like I made an irrational decision or anything! I am S L O W.


As far as the RS1, that is still coming from AVS, and it looks like that will be here in approximately 3 weeks. The D2 will be here in 2 weeks. My Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1 Blu-ray player will be here in 3 weeks.


Yes, I have been hit hard by upgradeitus. I can't seem to shake it either!










I may suffer from audio/video over-stimulation with all this new equipment coming in!










I'm pretty excited about each one of these pieces, but the D2 is probably the most exciting of all of them!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> but the D2 is probably the most exciting of all of them!































I AGREE WITH YOU ON THAT POINT - Happy D2ing


----------



## Will Binegar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DVI devices want RGB for home theater use and Extended RGB for connecting to computers. So what you want for output from the D2 to your display is, indeed, RGB (not Extended RGB or either form of YCbCr).
> 
> 
> For more background read the links on "Data Format" in the collection of Terminology and Technology links in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> Oh, and welcome to the club!
> 
> --Bob




Thanks and Thanks Bob!


Will


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As for lamp life - I have seen numbers all over the map. Some
> 
> say as high as 3000 hours - but I doubt that. Probably 1200
> 
> is a more realistic number but I do not know that as a fact
> 
> either?



I recall several threads about Ruby lamp life. I thought one was by Tryg, but couldn't find it. Did find this one though.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I AGREE WITH YOU ON THAT POINT - Happy D2ing



Glad you like my new emoticon Doc!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I recall several threads about Ruby lamp life. I thought one was by Tryg, but couldn't find it. Did find this one though.



Thanks for that THREAD .


So maybe my 1200 hours GUESS was a fair one.


The graph also showed it would last longer, so the higher

numbers I found also hold water - although you may not

want to be swimming in that water -


----------



## yatchaks

I think the happy bouncing dude should be our Anthem mascott


----------



## AnthemAVM

Anyone know when Anthem is going to get more AVM50 in stock?


----------



## jorsan

Hi, Im sure this two questions has been asked before, but can't find the answer in this looooong thread so here they are :


1.- Just installed my new AVM50. I have connected a HTPC (HDMI), a dish system (component) and an old VHS/DVD player (S-video). My TV is a 50" Optoma 720 display and have no issues with it, I can see all three inputs thru component, but I also have a SIM2 Domino 30H projector with a HDMI connector and can't get any image here. When I unplug the connector, I have a message in the screen mention "no signal" so somehting is flowing from the processor to the projector but not the image.


2,- Besides of having my HT speaker system fully loaded with my processor, I would like to feed also my plasma own speakers with the audio signal (my HT speakers are positioning different from my plasma), I've tried several ideas but none of the works (use balance for my main speakers and use the other connections to feed the TV, use tape outputs etc.). One option could be the zone 2 but as I mentioned before, I have different audio/videp inputs so this is not possible.


I really need your help here because I just having part of the fun and want it all!!!. Thanks in advance.


----------



## jorsan

Sorry but I forgot other question:


3.- Can I configure individualy each of the units conneted to my processor? as I mention before, each unit is connected different: HTPC thru HDMI, Dish thru component and VHS thru s-video. The idea is modify the brightnees, chroma, color, etc for each one. Thanks


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm pretty excited about each one of these pieces, but the D2 is probably the most exciting of all of them!



When I was putting together my theater, I knew I was getting the Ruby, plus a 6.1 B&W speaker system and 7 channel Rotel amp. I was mighty pleased with the potential. Then, late in the game, my dealer told me about this Anthem D2 thingie. The specs sounded good, but I coudn't detect a huge difference for the significant amount of money. In the end, I went for it.


It's turned out to be my most valuable piece. Everything else will get upgraded before the D2. I had no idea!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jorsan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi, Im sure this two questions has been asked before, but can't find the answer in this looooong thread so here they are :
> 
> 
> 1.- Just installed my new AVM50. I have connected a HTPC (HDMI), a dish system (component) and an old VHS/DVD player (S-video). My TV is a 50" Optoma 720 display and have no issues with it, I can see all three inputs thru component, but I also have a SIM2 Domino 30H projector with a HDMI connector and can't get any image here. When I unplug the connector, I have a message in the screen mention "no signal" so somehting is flowing from the processor to the projector but not the image.
> 
> 
> 2,- Besides of having my HT speaker system fully loaded with my processor, I would like to feed also my plasma own speakers with the audio signal (my HT speakers are positioning different from my plasma), I've tried several ideas but none of the works (use balance for my main speakers and use the other connections to feed the TV, use tape outputs etc.). One option could be the zone 2 but as I mentioned before, I have different audio/videp inputs so this is not possible.
> 
> 
> I really need your help here because I just having part of the fun and want it all!!!. Thanks in advance.



I presume you want a stereo mixdown of the audio selected for the Main path to go to your plasma's speakers. You can do this by Copying Main to Zone2 in the initial page of the Setup / Source Setup menu. You can also do this temporarily using the Copy function of the remote control. Whatever audio is selected and processed on the Main path will then be converted to a stereo mixdown and sent out the Zone 2 RCA jacks as well. Copying Main like this is the only way to get digital audio input out those analog audio jacks for example.


You can do a similar thing by Copying Main to Record and then using the Record output jacks if you prefer to leave Zone 2 free for something else.


In either case, whatever you select as the Main path source device will have its audio automatically downmixed and sent out the alternate way as well.


---------------------------------------


For your projector, check to be sure it is HDCP (copy protection) compliant on its HDMI input. It likely is, but if not you won't be able to use it. If your projector actually has a DVI input, on the other hand, it might not be.


The trick with setting up the Anthem is to set up the video output stuff first and then futz with the various source input settings. This is more fully explained in the "video setup for non-ISF techs" post which you will find linked at the beginning of the first post of this thread. Basically you use the Anthem's own, internally generated video (menus and test patterns) to find the correct video output settings independent of any source device video.


The most likely reason you are not getting video on your HDMI projector (presuming it is HDCP compliant) is that you have selected a resolution that it can not handle over HDMI (some projectors will differ in what they can accept over HDMI and over component). The next most likely reason is that you have to try the alternate setting of Setup / Video Output / HDMI Sync. Only one of the two HDMI Sync settings will work correctly.


If you are trying to send an unusual video resolution to your projector, it may be that the built-in timings in the Anthem are not what your projector requires for that resolution. Try a more typical resolution (i.e., HDMI 480p or 1080i) to verify that things are working at all. If necessary, you can go into the Live Video Settings application (available from Anthem) on a Windows PC to define a set of Custom Resolution timings for your projector's unusual resolution.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jorsan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry but I forgot other question:
> 
> 
> 3.- Can I configure individualy each of the units conneted to my processor? as I mention before, each unit is connected different: HTPC thru HDMI, Dish thru component and VHS thru s-video. The idea is modify the brightnees, chroma, color, etc for each one. Thanks



Yes. This too is described in that video setup post you'll find in the collection of links at the beginning of the first post in this thread.


Select in turn each input on the Anthem. For each, press and hold the "7" key on the Anthem remote until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up. The controls you are asking about are in the first panel of settings in that menu.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's turned out to be my most valuable piece. Everything else will get upgraded before the D2. I had no idea!



We call it the "Epiphany Effect". It often leads to silly grins and hopping up and down in glee.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When I was putting together my theater, I knew I was getting the Ruby, plus a 6.1 B&W speaker system and 7 channel Rotel amp. I was mighty pleased with the potential. Then, late in the game, my dealer told me about this Anthem D2 thingie. The specs sounded good, but I coudn't detect a huge difference for the significant amount of money. In the end, I went for it.
> 
> 
> It's turned out to be my most valuable piece. Everything else will get upgraded before the D2. I had no idea!




What does the D2 give you over the AVM50, except for a second chip that isn't used yet.


----------



## jorsan

Bob, I REALLY apreciate your help. I'll read and try what you mention and will keep you posted. thanks.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What does the D2 give you over the AVM50, except for a second chip that isn't used yet.



Nothing that I can tell. Of course, the AVM50 wasn't available last spring when I got my D2.


Plus, I want the potential for more goodness like room correction and other things. I have no doubt that the chip will get used, and I'll be there.


So, even though I paid dearly, I can own it without issue for a long time. Longer than my Ruby


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What does the D2 give you over the AVM50, except for a second chip that isn't used yet.



Actually both DSPs *ARE* used in the D2 at this point. They are just not used to full capacity.


The D2 and the AVM-50 have an identical video solution.


The audio solution in the D2 is more "exotic": Built around 192KHz upsampling for example. More details are in the D2 section of the Anthem Statement site.


The D2 also has a better power supply, a very small set of "features" not available in the AVM-50, and that spare DSP processing power I mentioned above which is expected to be used in the long-awaited Room EQ upgrade.


The audio side of the D2 is a D1, and the audio side of an AVM-50 is an AVM-30. I believe if you Google a bit you'll be able to find some useful comparisons of D1 vs. AVM-30 audio.


For the few feature differences, check out the Comparison chart that's available in the AVM section of the Anthem web site.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually both DSPs *ARE* used in the D2 at this point. They are just not used to full capacity.
> 
> 
> The D2 and the AVM-50 have an identical video solution.
> 
> 
> The audio solution in the D2 is more "exotic": Built around 192KHz upsampling for example. More details are in the D2 section of the Anthem Statement site.
> 
> 
> The D2 also has a better power supply, a very small set of "features" not available in the AVM-50, and that spare DSP processing power I mentioned above which is expected to be used in the long-awaited Room EQ upgrade.
> 
> 
> The audio side of the D2 is a D1, and the audio side of an AVM-50 is an AVM-30. I believe if you Google a bit you'll be able to find some useful comparisons of D1 vs. AVM-30 audio.
> 
> 
> For the few feature differences, check out the Comparison chart that's available in the AVM section of the Anthem web site.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, I am backordered on a AVM50, and told my dealer I would take a D2 if he could give me 20% off, he has 4 in stock.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, I am backordered on a AVM50, and told my dealer I would take a D2 if he could give me 20% off, he has 4 in stock.



That's a pretty awesome dealer if he invested in 4 D2's for inventory!

--Bob


----------



## jorsan

Thanks again. Audio problem solved!. About the proyector and HDMI, I unplug the connector and connect it directly to my Dish unit (is HD DVR) and I can see images in HD so looks like there is no problem with the proyector. When I have it connected the the Anthem, all that I have is a green screen. Maybe this information could help. By the way, the AVM50 is new so dont think is a connector problem. The netive resolution of my proyector is 1280x720 and I have the AVM50 output set up like that.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, I am backordered on a AVM50, and told my dealer I would take a D2 if he could give me 20% off, he has 4 in stock.



Damn retailer hogging all the stock on this sought after piece. Here I am waiting for my piece to come from Anthem while your dealer has 4 of them collecting dust. Sacrilege I tell you. Sacrilege.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, I am backordered on a AVM50, and told my dealer I would take a D2 if he could give me 20% off, he has 4 in stock.



Settle for 15% off and be happy with a much better investment


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why yes, yes you do! And I appreciate your help with this decision!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I will let the cat out of the bag!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did order the D2! I've only been thinking about it since November, so it isn't like I made an irrational decision or anything! I am S L O W.
> 
> 
> As far as the RS1, that is still coming from AVS, and it looks like that will be here in approximately 3 weeks. The D2 will be here in 2 weeks. My Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1 Blu-ray player will be here in 3 weeks.
> 
> 
> Yes, I have been hit hard by upgradeitus. I can't seem to shake it either!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may suffer from audio/video over-stimulation with all this new equipment coming in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty excited about each one of these pieces, but the D2 is probably the most exciting of all of them!



Congratulation! I am also a SLOW on some procurement. This is way I will not get the RS1 before September.


Now wait time


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am also a SLOW on some procurement.



So true!







But you're getting better, particularly in the last months, since you have "someone" pushing on your back!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What does the D2 give you over the AVM50, except for a second chip that isn't used yet.




ISnt used yet but will be soon when the Room EQ will be available.


The big difference is audio quality. If you have the rest of the audio equipment to give the D2 full justice, you will find out that the Delta price between the D2 and the AVM50 is quite justified just on the better audio.


PS: One Day a D3 will show up and you will only be able to upgrade from D2 TO D3.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think the happy bouncing dude should be our Anthem mascott



Just save this link below -

http://www.rx8web.com/smilies/bouncy.gif 


Then you can click on the Icon Link in AVS and Paste this link in.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So true!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you're getting better, particularly in the last months, since you have "someone" pushing on your back!



LEVESQUE it works both ways I think you were not suppose to exchange de Ruby for a JVC.... I remember numeros conversation on this










In the last 6 months


REL Sub Britania B2

DVDO VP50

Anthem D2

Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1

Toshiba XA2


Not counting piles of cables, etc, ......



Thanks good I resold the VP50.









-----------------------------------------


Next step is a new projector in September. After that I will be done and never change anything else







This is what I told my wife....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jorsan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks again. Audio problem solved!. About the proyector and HDMI, I unplug the connector and connect it directly to my Dish unit (is HD DVR) and I can see images in HD so looks like there is no problem with the proyector. When I have it connected the the Anthem, all that I have is a green screen. Maybe this information could help. By the way, the AVM50 is new so dont think is a connector problem. The netive resolution of my proyector is 1280x720 and I have the AVM50 output set up like that.



I'm glad the audio is working out for you.


I can't find the owner's manual for your particular Domino projector on line so I don't know if there are any specific settings you need to make in it.


The usual suggestions when diagnosing an HDMI problem are:


1) Temporarily move the Anthem and projector closer to each other and try a SHORT HDMI cable of high quality -- under 6 feet long. Some HDMI cables, particularly long ones, are marginal and may cause problems. If the short cable fixes your problem there are things we can suggest to get a longer cable working.


2) Try HDMI 480p resolution. This puts less demand on the HDMI cable and the projector. Again this is just temporary to try to isolate what's going wrong.


3) Test video by selecting an Anthem input that has no video source connected to it. The Anthem will produce a blue screen as its default output. When video output is working correctly you will be able to view the blue screen, and also the Anthem Setup screen and the Anthem Video Source Adjust menu, including its test patterns, independent of any source device.


4) When changing Setup / Video Output settings in the Anthem, remember that you have to "accept" these changes for them to actually take effect. When you "Back" out of the menu, the Anthem will ask you if you really want to make these changes and you have to change the answer from No to Yes to do that.


5) Keep in mind that you can do all of the Setup menu stuff using the front panel display of the Anthem. The front panel display will only show a bit of each menu at a time, but you can use the menu pictures in the Anthem owner's manual to keep from getting lost.


6) Verify that you are sending the correct "data format" to your projector. For HDMI to HDMI connections that will usually be YCbCr 4:4:4, but some displays require RGB instead. Check your projector's owner's manual. You said you were getting a green screen. If you mean you were getting green tinted video (i.e, you were seeing the Anthem menus but they were "ghastly green" instead of the right color) then this is a "data format" problem.


7) Try both settings of Setup / Video Output / HDMI Sync. Only one will work. Again, remember that you have to back out of the menu and "accept" the change before it actually takes effect. The incorrect Sync setting will either give you no picture or will give you a picture that's not quite solid and which is shifted horizontally by, say 1/3 of the screen.


Try these things and let us know what you are seeing.


===================================


Edited to add: Temporarily turn off all input devices that are set to generate either 1080i or 1080p video output. Set the Anthem to 480p or 720p output using the front panel display and accept that change. Now power cycle the Anthem. When it comes back up, see if video output is working -- again by selecting an input that has nothing connected to it and viewing only the Anthem's own, internally generated video -- Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu. The purpose of all of this is to make sure you have not been hit with the 1080i bug that affected some Anthem V1.11 owners. I don't think that's what's giving you your green screen, but I mention it for completeness. If turning off 1080i/1080p stuff fixes your problem then you need to contact Anthem tech support to get new software (available as test software).

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse

Hi,


I had a big problem with the install on 1.11 (g) a week ago and it crashed my D2 to the point that I cannot get it to power up at all. I have been in contact with Nick at Anthem throughout the week as I have been travelling on business.

He sent me the Flash Eraser to reset but it is erroring out with the following message...


Component 'MSCOMM32.OCX' or one of it's dependencies not currently registered: a file is missing or invalid


Anyone have any idea what is happening here? I have emailed Nick on this but he will not be in the office until Monday and I am back out on business all next week and quite frankly my wife is going to divorce me if I don't get this back up and running.


Thoughts anyone?


Cheers!

/\\/\\


----------



## FilmMixer

^^ You can search using google for the files, but that didn't help me either...


I will pm you how to do the reset Nick advised me to do, but it involves opening the case.. do so at your own risk.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I had a big problem with the install on 1.11 (g) a week ago and it crashed my D2 to the point that I cannot get it to power up at all. I have been in contact with Nick at Anthem throughout the week as I have been travelling on business.
> 
> He sent me the Flash Eraser to reset but it is erroring out with the following message...
> 
> 
> Component 'MSCOMM32.OCX' or one of it's dependencies not currently registered: a file is missing or invalid
> 
> 
> Anyone have any idea what is happening here? I have emailed Nick on this but he will not be in the office until Monday and I am back out on business all next week and quite frankly my wife is going to divorce me if I don't get this back up and running.
> 
> 
> Thoughts anyone?
> 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> /\\/\\



Is your Windows computer up to date with Microsoft patches?

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is your Windows computer up to date with Microsoft patches?
> 
> --Bob




Hi Bob,

It is a work computer so I quite frankly I am not sure...is there a specfic "flash" patch I should look for?

/\\/\\


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I had a big problem with the install on 1.11 (g) a week ago and it crashed my D2 to the point that I cannot get it to power up at all. I have been in contact with Nick at Anthem throughout the week as I have been travelling on business.
> 
> He sent me the Flash Eraser to reset but it is erroring out with the following message...
> 
> 
> Component 'MSCOMM32.OCX' or one of it's dependencies not currently registered: a file is missing or invalid
> 
> 
> Anyone have any idea what is happening here? I have emailed Nick on this but he will not be in the office until Monday and I am back out on business all next week and quite frankly my wife is going to divorce me if I don't get this back up and running.
> 
> 
> Thoughts anyone?
> 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> /\\/\\



Hi,

You are missing the visual basic runtime library files. Apparently you have never installed an application that requires them







. If you go to

http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/d...DisplayLang=en 


and search for "visual basic redistributable" (hopefully that link works, you should end up downloading "VB6.0-KB290887-X86.exe"), you should be able to download and install the needed files. This assumes you are running XP. If you are for some reason running Vista (or something else), then the solution might be different.... Good luck and I hope that helps...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> It is a work computer so I quite frankly I am not sure...is there a specfic "flash" patch I should look for?
> 
> /\\/\\



Not that I know of. But the complaint you are seeing indicates that some library file the eraser application depends on is not installed, or the wrong version is installed, on your computer.


This could be because they have been using a different OS version when they build and use that app than you are (Windows XP vs. Windows 2000 for example), or that your OS is not as up to date in software changes from Microsoft, or that you have something installed on your computer that changed its libraries.


It is quite possible that Anthem has not designed/tested this eraser app to work on the full range of Windows stuff out there since it is primarily an internal tool.


My suggestion would be to try a different Windows computer with a real serial port and see if you can find one which happens to work for this app.


------------------------------------------------------------


We've had a few people here who managed to get that eraser app to run on their machines. It might be helpful if those folks would post the OS version they were using on the Windows machine when this worked.

--Bob


----------



## jorsan

Bob, Again, thanks for your help.


Here you can find the manual; originaly was a DOMINO30 but I upgraded to DOMINO30H (HDMI connector) :
http://www.sim2usa.com/frameset_support_ent.htm 

go to downloads and then user manuals.


You're right about distance, I'm using 40ft. of cable between my processor and projector, but this looks like is not big issue because (as I mention in other post) I connect the dish HD DVR and have an excelent image with this same long cable. I have same run with component cables and conecting them to the processor works great. One peculiar thing that happens is that when I choose component as prefered in "video output" the image fills perfeclty the screen, but when I choose HDMI appears a black vertical band on the right side of the screen (the projector, not the TV) that is a 1/15 of the image, doesnt matter if I choose component or HDMI (without image of course, just the green screen), maybe this could help.

I have tried lowering the resolution to 480p and nothing changes; video testing nothing also.

Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^ You can search using google for the files, but that didn't help me either...
> 
> 
> I will pm you how to do the reset Nick advised me to do, but it involves opening the case.. do so at your own risk.



OH NO - now we are going to have to send out the KILL

SQUAD because you are giving out the SECRET


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OH NO - now we are going to have to send out the KILL
> 
> SQUAD because you are giving out the SECRET



Unfortunately for me the SECRET didn't work either...










/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jorsan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, Again, thanks for your help.
> 
> 
> Here you can find the manual; originaly was a DOMINO30 but I upgraded to DOMINO30H (HDMI connector) :
> http://www.sim2usa.com/frameset_support_ent.htm
> 
> go to downloads and then user manuals.
> 
> 
> You're right about distance, I'm using 40ft. of cable between my processor and projector, but this looks like is not big issue because (as I mention in other post) I connect the dish HD DVR and have an excelent image with this same long cable. I have same run with component cables and conecting them to the processor works great. One peculiar thing that happens is that when I choose component as prefered in "video output" the image fills perfeclty the screen, but when I choose HDMI appears a black vertical band on the right side of the screen (the projector, not the TV) that is a 1/15 of the image, doesnt matter if I choose component or HDMI (without image of course, just the green screen), maybe this could help.
> 
> I have tried lowering the resolution to 480p and nothing changes; video testing nothing also.
> 
> Thanks



I think you are going to have to work this with Anthem tech support. It doesn't sound to me like you are doing anything wrong and I can't see any settings in your projector's owner's manual that might address this.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Will my D2 (which will be shipped from Anthem in about 2 weeks) have version 1.11 installed?


Is there a difference between 1.11 and 1.11 (g)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes, and yes.


V1.11g is test software, so it may have some surprises. It is only available as email from Anthem tech support. New units are shipping with the original V1.11 factory installed.


Between V1.11 and V1.11g Anthem addressed a number of issues having to do with robustness of the software install process itself, the 1080i/1080p video failure that affected some small percentage of owners (apparently based on their particular source devices), a number of issues related to loss of video when the Anthem was put through an HDMI re-handshake by the source device (some requiring power cycle of the Anthem to clear), and some issues where the Anthem failed to properly recognize/handle 480i analog video sources through the scaler. Odds are there are other fixes in there as well.


On the down side, a significant number of people have reported serious problems in the software install process for V1.11g. Some of these are definitely user/computer errors (as opposed to the earlier problems that were due to the Anthem install application itself), but they left the machines inoperable until a separate process could be applied to reset the machine to a state where firmware could be re-installed.


Anthem is reportedly still working on other problems that remain in V1.11g:


* 1080i/60Hz (or 1080p/60Hz) to 1080p/24Hz rate conversion not working properly for film based sources. 1080p/24Hz input to 1080p/24Hz output works fine.


* Velodyne DD series subwoofers and SMS-1 product S-video user interface not properly processsed by Anthem scaler. Pass-through to Anthem S-video output works fine.


* Tivo S3 still causes some HDMI handshake related failures, primarily when going in and out of its menus.


* Some HTPC sources need the aid of Gefen DVI Detective to operate correctly due to the way the Anthem implements EDID response to the source.


There are probably others that I've forgotten.


Anthem is also reportedly doing some feature improvements in its internal test patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu. In addition, Live Video Settings Editor V1.11g has been reported to have the new capability of saving and restoring all of the Video Source Adjust menu settings for all inputs at once to PC files. In combination with Setup Editor (used to save and restore Setup menu settings), this should allow a user to keep a backup copy of all important settings on the PC.


I've not been able to get anyone to fess up as to how close Anthem might be getting to finalizing this stuff as its next public release -- most probably to be named V1.12 or possibly V1.20.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, and yes.
> 
> 
> V1.11g is test software, so it may have some surprises. It is only available as email from Anthem tech support. New units are shipping with the original V1.11 factory installed.
> 
> 
> Between V1.11 and V1.11g Anthem addressed a number of issues having to do with robustness of the software install process itself, the 1080i/1080p video failure that affected some small percentage of owners (apparently based on their particular source devices), a number of issues related to loss of video when the Anthem was put through an HDMI re-handshake by the source device (some requiring power cycle of the Anthem to clear), and some issues where the Anthem failed to properly recognize/handle 480i analog video sources through the scaler. Odds are there are other fixes in there as well.
> 
> 
> On the down side, a significant number of people have reported serious problems in the software install process for V1.11g. Some of these are definitely user/computer errors (as opposed to the earlier problems that were due to the Anthem install application itself), but they left the machines inoperable until a separate process could be applied to reset the machine to a state where firmware could be re-installed.
> 
> 
> Anthem is reportedly still working on other problems that remain in V1.11g:
> 
> 
> * 1080i/60Hz (or 1080p/60Hz) to 1080p/24Hz rate conversion not working properly for film based sources. 1080p/24Hz input to 1080p/24Hz output works fine.
> 
> 
> * Velodyne DD series subwoofers and SMS-1 product S-video user interface not properly processsed by Anthem scaler. Pass-through to Anthem S-video output works fine.
> 
> 
> * Tivo S3 still causes some HDMI handshake related failures, primarily when going in and out of its menus.
> 
> 
> * Some HTPC sources need the aid of Gefen DVI Detective to operate correctly due to the way the Anthem implements EDID response to the source.
> 
> 
> There are probably others that I've forgotten.
> 
> 
> Anthem is also reportedly doing some feature improvements in its internal test patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu. In addition, Live Video Settings Editor V1.11g has been reported to have the new capability of saving and restoring all of the Video Source Adjust menu settings for all inputs at once to PC files. In combination with Setup Editor (used to save and restore Setup menu settings), this should allow a user to keep a backup copy of all important settings on the PC.
> 
> 
> I've not been able to get anyone to fess up as to how close Anthem might be getting to finalizing this stuff as its next public release -- most probably to be named V1.12 or possibly V1.20.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Make no mistake, your posts here are one of the reasons I felt more comfortable in purchasing the D2!











> Quote:
> * 1080i/60Hz (or 1080p/60Hz) to 1080p/24Hz rate conversion not working properly for film based sources. 1080p/24Hz input to 1080p/24Hz output works fine.



Well, that's definitely not good. I would be feeding the D2 a 1080i/60 signal from my HD-DVD player with the assumption that the D2 would (properly) convert it to 1080p/24 to match the native resolution of the JVC projector (which will display it at 96Hz).


Would this also effect 1080i signals from my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR box?


What exactly is the problem? How does it manifest itself (artifacts)?


>>>After reading your response more carefully, are you saying that the 1080i/60 conversion to 1080p/24 is ONLY a problem on 1.11g, and NOT a problem on 1.11??


Thanks Bob!


----------



## jorsan

Thanks Bob, I apreciate your help. Will contact them on Monday.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, that's definitely not good. I would be feeding the D2 a 1080i/60 signal from my HD-DVD player with the assumption that the D2 would (properly) convert it to 1080p/24 to match the native resolution of the JVC projector (which will display it at 96Hz).
> 
> 
> Would this also effect 1080i signals from my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR box?
> 
> 
> What exactly is the problem? How does it manifest itself (artifacts)?
> 
> 
> >>>After reading your response more carefully, are you saying that the 1080i/60 conversion to 1080p/24 is ONLY a problem on 1.11g, and NOT a problem on 1.11??
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob!



No the problem also exists in all the older software including original V1.11. Apparently (this is just a guess) the Anthem is not properly detecting the film rate repeat cadence of the film rate content embedded in the video rate 1080i/60Hz input stream. The result is that the Anthem gets out of sync and you see studdering in the 1080p/24Hz output. The Anthem currently offers film rate Auto detect and Off settings, but no setting to force it On (which might have offered a workaround).


Anthem has been able to duplicate the problem and is working on it.


Since the Anthem has to detect this stuff properly to do 1080i to 1080p de-interlacing, I personally think this is not going to be that tough for them to fix. It is also possible that the problem is not due to film rate detection, but, rather, due to the specific video signal timings they are using when told to output 1080p/24Hz.


For now, 1080p/60Hz output is the "safe" choice, even though that means you can't produce a judder free display just yet.


Again note, 1080p/24Hz input to 1080p/24Hz output apparently does not have this problem. This is another reason to believe the problem is just a glitch in the repeat cadence detection during frame rate conversion.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

I just checked the Anthem Website, and found that the dealer I have been working with is no longer listed on there website, do you think this means they are no longer a dealer?


----------



## earwit

Tried to hook-up my 79avi, to the D2 via

Hdmi, and the DVD player HDMI light,

keeps flashing, Currently set to 1080i

resolution, unable to get into The 79avi

settings for more the one second, before

set-up screen closes..Have D2 set to correct

HDMI input, tried repeater on and off


Any suggestions???


Thanks in advance..


Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just checked the Anthem Website, and found that the dealer I have been working with is no longer listed on there website, do you think this means they are no longer a dealer?



Yikes! It could be just a glitch in the Anthem listings, but it would be best to give Anthem a call and verify the continuing Authorized Dealer status of these folks.


Let the dealer know as well.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For now, 1080p/60Hz output is the "safe" choice, even though that means you can't produce a judder free display just yet.
> 
> 
> Again note, 1080p/24Hz input to 1080p/24Hz output apparently does not have this problem. This is another reason to believe the problem is just a glitch in the repeat cadence detection during frame rate conversion.
> 
> --Bob



As noted earlier, I have the Pioneer Elite BD player ordered, and it does 1080p/24, so I will be good to go there. But it is disappointing that I can't get judder free 1080i conversion from my HD-DVD player. I hope this is resolved quickly.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *earwit* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tried to hook-up my 79avi, to the D2 via
> 
> Hdmi, and the DVD player HDMI light,
> 
> keeps flashing, Currently set to 1080i
> 
> resolution, unable to get into The 79avi
> 
> settings for more the one second, before
> 
> set-up screen closes..Have D2 set to correct
> 
> HDMI input, tried repeater on and off
> 
> 
> Any suggestions???
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance..
> 
> 
> Bob



This would normally only happen if the Anthem decides your TV is not HDCP (copy protection) compliant but might also happen if the video board in the Anthem is resetting itself, perhaps due to the 1080i bug.


Try turning your TV *OFF* (to be doubly sure, disconnect it from wall power), power cycle the Anthem, and then try again with the Pioneer 79avi and with HDMI Repeater=NO in the Anthem (which is the only way this can work since your TV is now off).


If that works then the problem is likely with HDCP and your display. If other HDMI to your display is working then you will probably need to work this with Anthem tech support.


If that doesn't work, consider doing a reset to Factory Defaults in the 79avi and trying again. The prior 59avi had some situations where its HDMI functions didn't work properly unless you went through the HDMI setup during the initial setup dialog on first power up. The factory reset should also force the HDMI output of the 79avi to its default 480p. If your problem is that you've been bitten by the 1080i bug (fixed in the Anthem test software releases after V1.11) then this will get your 79avi off that resolution.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As noted earlier, I have the Pioneer Elite BD player ordered, and it does 1080p/24, so I will be good to go there. But it is disappointing that I can't get judder free 1080i conversion from my HD-DVD player. I hope this is resolved quickly.



I'd be very surprised if Anthem doesn't consider this a high priority.


By the way, you might as well try it with your Toshiba. There have been few enough people trying this to date that it is not entirely clear whether this problem affects everyone.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just save this link below -
> 
> http://www.rx8web.com/smilies/bouncy.gif
> 
> 
> Then you can click on the Icon Link in AVS and Paste this link in.




so does this mean that we have finally found our secret handshake for D2 owners and if so do we have to let AVM50 owners in too? To prevent fradulent handshakes from D2 wannabees we need someone to come up with an interrogative that could only be answered by an authentic D2 owner!

http://www.rx8web.com/smilies/bouncy.gif 


Peter


ps . ok so I pasted the link.....so how do I get the thingy to bounce up and down? And please don't ask me to call Bob Pariseau for the answer!


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Component 'MSCOMM32.OCX' or one of it's dependencies not currently registered: a file is missing or invalid



I don't know if this is any help, this VB 6.0 Active X control is part of the Anthem Flash Eraser and Data Analyzer software.

drmabuse, you said this was a work PC, do you have admin rights on this PC. What's the OS?

The message is telling you that either MSCOMM32.OCX or a dll file that this control needs is not registered with the OS most likely the first.

Do a search of this file on your PC, you should see in the system32 directory and the .cab files of the Anthem programs mentioned above.

I looked this guy up in the dependency walker but that is really not going to help you I don't think.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd be very surprised if Anthem doesn't consider this a high priority.
> 
> 
> By the way, you might as well try it with your Toshiba. There have been few enough people trying this to date that it is not entirely clear whether this problem affects everyone.
> 
> --Bob



I would be happy to try this Bob but I remember that I can't because of the Ruby......correct? It doesn't support 1080P/24 .....RIGHT?


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would be happy to try this Bob but I remember that I can't because of the Ruby......correct? It doesn't support 1080P/24 .....RIGHT?
> 
> 
> Peter



It has been reported here that the Ruby supports 1080p/48Hz over its DVI input only (not HDMI) as an undocumented feature.. However its DVI input has some other problem that softens the image. But for testing this, that wouldn't matter.


1080p/24Hz is, reportedly, not supported by either input of the Ruby. However, 1080p/48Hz from the Anthem would be just as good a test of this.


To select 1080p/48Hz output for the Anthem you will need to use Live Video Settings Editor (V1.10 or later). The procedure is described in a post linked off the collection of links in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd be very surprised if Anthem doesn't consider this a high priority.
> 
> 
> By the way, you might as well try it with your Toshiba. There have been few enough people trying this to date that it is not entirely clear whether this problem affects everyone.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I will definitely try sending the D2 1080i/60 from the Toshiba and 1080p/24 out to see how it behaves.


I agree that this bug would/should be a priority. Considering how long the Toshiba HD-DVD player has been out, I am somewhat surprised that this has not been resolved yet.


Time for an email blitz to Nick?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> so does this mean that we have finally found our secret handshake for D2 owners and if so do we have to let AVM50 owners in too? To prevent fradulent handshakes from D2 wannabees we need someone to come up with an interrogative that could only be answered by an authentic D2 owner!
> 
> http://www.rx8web.com/smilies/bouncy.gif
> 
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> ps . ok so I pasted the link.....so how do I get the thingy to bounce up and down? And please don't ask me to call Bob Pariseau for the answer!



You need to put that link between these:










If you do, you will get our mascot:


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You need to put that link between these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you do, you will get our mascot:



"img" of course stands for "insert mascot guy"....

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> so does this mean that we have finally found our secret handshake for D2 owners and if so do we have to let AVM50 owners in too? To prevent fradulent handshakes from D2 wannabees we need someone to come up with an interrogative that could only be answered by an authentic D2 owner!



No need to differentiate. This is a combined D2 and AVM-50 thread. The more glee the better.

--bob


----------



## Randall Morton

I've been trying to set up my D2 to work with my current system and I'm having trouble getting audio out. I've got my video side working fine through HDMI(SA8300 and XA2).


I don't have a dedicated amplifier yet and am using my main audio outs from the D2 to the Ext. inputs on my Denon AVR 5800. I've tried using SPDIF input also and I get no sound either way. I'm really not sure if it is a problem with the receiver or the D2. Any idea of a way I could troubleshoot this, or what the simplest setup would be to check for any audio at all?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been trying to set up my D2 to work with my current system and I'm having trouble getting audio out. I've got my video side working fine through HDMI(SA8300 and XA2).
> 
> 
> I don't have a dedicated amplifier yet and am using my main audio outs from the D2 to the Ext. inputs on my Denon AVR 5800. I've tried using SPDIF input also and I get no sound either way. I'm really not sure if it is a problem with the receiver or the D2. Any idea of a way I could troubleshoot this, or what the simplest setup would be to check for any audio at all?



The easiest way to verify your audio output connections is to use the Anthem's own internally generated test tones in the Setup / Speaker Lvl Calibration menu. Set the test tone to Manual and then scroll down line by line to get a test tone out of each speaker output. This is, of course, independent of any source device.


If the test tones work and you are still not getting source audio, then something is wrong in your source setup in the Anthem.


While playing something, press Select repeatedly on the Anthem remote. One of the status displays will be what the Anthem is seeing for audio input, and another will be what it is sending out for audio output.


If the Anthem reports no audio input, double check your Setup / Source Setup menu for that particular input. Note that if you are expecting audio to come in over HDMI you need to make two entries in the menu page for that input. You must select the appropriate HDMI input jack for the video that goes to the scaler, and also down in the Audio line you need to specify that you want to use the HDMI Dig audio.


--------------------------------------------------


Remember that the Anthem is like 3 devices in one, each of which can be separately controlled by the remote. The buttons at the top of the Anthem select which device the Anthem remote will control. Press the Main path button to make sure you haven't accidentally hit Zone 2 or whatever. THEN use the buttons at the bottom of the Anthem remote to select the input source device for the Main path.


--------------------------------------------------


Be sure you haven't muted your audio output by plugging in headphones or by setting the power on volume too low to hear.


--------------------------------------------------


Be sure you haven't selected an "overlayed" Anthem input (i.e., DVD2 vs. DVD1) by pressing the Anthem's input selection buttons more than once. You can avoid any such problem by going into Setup / Source Setup and setting "disable" for any overlayed input you are not actually using.


--------------------------------------------------


Be sure you haven't accidentally turned on Simulcast (video from one input with audio from another input) by accidentally pressing and holding the source select button too long. Temporarily switch to another source and back to clear this.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been trying to set up my D2 to work with my current system and I'm having trouble getting audio out. I've got my video side working fine through HDMI(SA8300 and XA2).



Are you having any issues with the SA8300 using HDMI? No problems with handshake etc? I am using the same box, and I thought others here had posted that they were having issues, so they had to use component connections.


Hope you figure out the audio issue (Bob's post should help).


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You need to put that link between these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you do, you will get our mascot:




Thanks Rob...........











Peter


----------



## Randall Morton

One problem I'm having is that my D2 manual got chewed by my Boxer last night. I can still use most of it, but it is a lot harder to use.


Picture is great from the 8300 and the XA2, through the D2 to the Dwin scaler. I'm amazed it works at all. I think the picture is actually a bit cleaner. I had a few glitches with hardshake to the 8300 but I did a hard reboot on the 8300 and it has worked flawlessly since.


I hooked up the analog outs from the DVD player directly to the Ext in of the Denon and it worked great. This eliminated the idea something might be wrong there. I then put everything back to the D2 and I heard a faint sound from the speaker after I turned the DVD player back on. I cranked up the levels on both the D2 volume and the Denon volume(near max on both) and had fairly good sound.


I'm still having trouble understanding the D2 input/output assignments and I think I just need to study my manual more to figure things out. I also retried the 8300 and still no sound so it probably has to do with assignments. Thanks for the help.


Oh, even though my sub didn't seem to be getting a signal the others speakers sounded better than I've ever heard them.


----------



## 3Dfx

I just picked up my AVM50 and MCA50.







Bob, you weren't planning on getting any sleep tonight were you?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One problem I'm having is that my D2 manual got chewed by my Boxer last night. I can still use most of it, but it is a lot harder to use.
> 
> 
> Picture is great from the 8300 and the XA2, through the D2 to the Dwin scaler. I'm amazed it works at all. I think the picture is actually a bit cleaner. I had a few glitches with hardshake to the 8300 but I did a hard reboot on the 8300 and it has worked flawlessly since.
> 
> 
> I hooked up the analog outs from the DVD player directly to the Ext in of the Denon and it worked great. This eliminated the idea something might be wrong there. I then put everything back to the D2 and I heard a faint sound from the speaker after I turned the DVD player back on. I cranked up the levels on both the D2 volume and the Denon volume(near max on both) and had fairly good sound.
> 
> 
> I'm still having trouble understanding the D2 input/output assignments and I think I just need to study my manual more to figure things out. I also retried the 8300 and still no sound so it probably has to do with assignments. Thanks for the help.
> 
> 
> Oh, even though my sub didn't seem to be getting a signal the others speakers sounded better than I've ever heard them.



In case your dog is still hungry, a new copy of the current D2 manual can be downloaded from the Anthem Statement web site here:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...ual/D2_OM.html 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just picked up my AVM50 and MCA50.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob, you weren't planning on getting any sleep tonight were you?



As the stock market speculator said:


"I sleep like a baby. Every two hours I wake up screaming."

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

Thanks for the link Bob, but I already had it open in another browser. I realled liked the nice spiral bound manual and it was a lot easier to use. I'll probably order a new one.


Congratulations Rob on your new order. I think you made a wise choice and you have good taste.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Congratulations Rob on your new order. I think you made a wise choice and you have good taste.



Yes, you too, going back to the days when we both ordered the Dwin!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One problem I'm having is that my D2 manual got chewed by my Boxer last night. I can still use most of it, but it is a lot harder to use.



This is why god invented PDFs










EDIT: And that's why God invented Bob... to help us all with our sanity


----------



## shah993

I have been a member of this forum from just about the time the D2 came out and Levesque started the thread and I am simply amazed at Bob's knowledge!!.How come you know so much?Your posts have been very helpful.Thanks!


----------



## Randall Morton

I got my sound working and semi dialed it. It is incredible. If there were a poll I would have checked "exceeded my expectations". I was planning on buying a P5, but I wonder if it would really make much difference. At least I can let my checkbook recover for a while before I make that purchase.


I know this is subjective, but I feel like my picture is better also. Not as much of a difference as the sound but a pretty good upgrade. I've been watching mostly cable on the 8300 so there may not be a big difference from my XA2.


----------



## 3Dfx

Well, I got the AVM50/MCA50 set up but I have a problem. Some channels only display a blue screen. For example, my local CBS and NBC HD channels as well as Discovery HD Theater, although the audio works. All other channels I've tried seem to work ok including the local ABC HD channel. I'm using a TiVo S3 set to pass native resolution via Component to the AVM50 then HDMI out to the 1540HD.


Under VIDEO OUTPUT I've tried every resolution my 1540HD supports, as well as Auto. I tried both Normal and Inverted sync. Data Format is set to Auto, Color Space is HDTV, Preferred is HDMI.


Under SOURCE SETUP/PRESETS:


Rename TV: TV

HDMI Repeater: NA

Component Video IN: 1

S-Video IN: None

Composite Video IN: None

Audio IN: Dig OPT1

HDMI 6CH MAP: NA

Muting: MED


I haven't done anything with the scaler and haven't gone in there yet.

*UPDATE:*


If I set the S3 TiVo to output either NATIVE or 1080i FIXED the problem is as above and I immediately get a blue screen and can't give the three thumbs up to verify the change.


However, when I set the TiVo to either 480i or 720p FIXED, everything works. I then set the Anthem to output 1080i/60 Hz or whatever I want and all is well.


Although this works, isn't that an unnecessary amount of deinterlacing and scaling going on? For example: a 1080i signal from Discovery HD is first converted to 720p by the TiVo then sent to the Anthem where it's output as 1080i/60 to the 1540HD and finally deinterlaced and scaled to 768p by the 1540HD.


Amazingly, even after all that it still looks good.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> *And that's why God invented Bob... to help us all with our sanity*



And now we officially have a new mascot and because of Rudolpht, a new slogan also.


----------



## PooperScooper

3Dfx,

Looks like you ran into the "1080i bug". Go back to the previous "page" or so and Bob helps somebody diagnose a similar issue to see if it is the "1080i bug" or not. (post #4900).


larry


----------



## 3Dfx

Thanks. It looks like that may be it. I sent an email to Anthem and I'll give em a call on Monday.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Will my D2 (which will be shipped from Anthem in about 2 weeks) have version 1.11 installed?
> 
> 
> Is there a difference between 1.11 and 1.11 (g)?



I have no issues so I am still running with the officiel 1.11.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. It looks like that may be it. I sent an email to Anthem and I'll give em a call on Monday.



Yes, I'd have to agree it looks like you've been bit with the 1080i input bug. Use 480i, 480p, or 720p input from your source devices for now as a workaround.


Anthem tech support will likely email you the V1.11g test software which apparently fixes this bug.


Be sure to read the software install instructions carefully. It is best to use a Windows PC with a real serial port instead of a USB to Serial adapter. Make sure that none of your HDMI connections is powered during the software install. Please note: Some devices keep their HDMI socket live even when the device appears to be powered off (i.e., is in "stand-by"). The safest thing to do is to disconnect all sources and your display from wall power prior to the software install, leaving just the Anthem and your computer plugged in. Turn off the Anthem power using it's back panel switch prior to attaching or detaching cables (such as the serial cable to your computer). Turn on the back power switch when ready to run the software install application. You don't need to power up the Anthem itself. The install program will power the Anthem on and off as necessary during the process. DO NOT INTERRUPT THE SOFTWARE INSTALL ONCE IT BEGINS. Make sure your computer doesn't "go to sleep" or some such during the install. The install will likely take around 15 minutes to complete and verify.


The software install kit will come with two additional applications in addition to the installer itself. Setup Editor can be used to save your Setup menu settings to a PC file. Live Video Settings Editor (V1.11g or later) can be used to save your Video Source Adjust menu settings (for all inputs) to a PC file. The software install should not alter your current settings, but if something goes wrong and you are forced to reset the Anthem to recover you will lose your settings so it is wise to save them to a PC file just in case.


If you get sent a version of the software later than V1.11g, please post any info here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been a member of this forum from just about the time the D2 came out and Levesque started the thread and I am simply amazed at Bob's knowledge!!.How come you know so much?Your posts have been very helpful.Thanks!



We here at 'Bob Pariseau' thank you for your kind words. You have made our monk-like existence just a little bit brighter.

(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Temporarily turn off all input devices that are set to generate either 1080i or 1080p video output. Set the Anthem to 480p or 720p output using the front panel display and accept that change. Now power cycle the Anthem. When it comes back up, see if video output is working -- again by selecting an input that has nothing connected to it and viewing only the Anthem's own, internally generated video -- Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu. The purpose of all of this is to make sure you have not been hit with the 1080i bug that affected some Anthem V1.11 owners. I don't think that's what's giving you your green screen, but I mention it for completeness. If turning off 1080i/1080p stuff fixes your problem then you need to contact Anthem tech support to get new software (available as test software).
> 
> --Bob



Why is it that this "1080i bug" only affected "some" V1.11 owners? Wouldn't the software be identical? It seems strange that only some units would be affected by this, and not others, assuming they are using the same FW version.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Will my D2 (which will be shipped from Anthem in about 2 weeks) have version 1.11 installed?
> 
> 
> Is there a difference between 1.11 and 1.11 (g)?



I don't know what they will ship in 2 weeks, but mine was shipped from Anthem about a week and a half ago and came with 1.11.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why is it that this "1080i bug" only affected "some" V1.11 owners? Wouldn't the software be identical? It seems strange that only some units would be affected by this, and not others, assuming they are using the same FW version.




Rob,

First and foremost, This bug is known to only strike decent human beings!!!!!


Second, I believe it appears with certain configurations that somehow 'tap' a conflict that is somehow set and not overwritten with a fresh install. Bob's advice should be followed to the letter if you get the "patch". We know it works but I can tell you that the HDMI power problem on install is very very real. Too many people have reported success after admitting (me too) that they disconnected the HDMI cables from the D2 after poor results trying to skip that step.


Third there have been a couple of reports that after 1.11g the whole result has improved the PQ but each thought it was their imagination until they mentioned it. Again thats not universal. One thing that is guaranteed however is that as soon as you do everything that Bob has recommended and you are successful then the full and final release will then be announced and you will have to do the whole thing all over again! So please do it so the rest of us can get the final release reeeel soon!


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why is it that this "1080i bug" only affected "some" V1.11 owners? Wouldn't the software be identical? It seems strange that only some units would be affected by this, and not others, assuming they are using the same FW version.



It's not clear. There's been no explanation from Anthem. But the reality is that there are many D2 and AVM-50 users active on this thread who are using 1080i and 1080p without problem on V1.10 and V1.11.


It is apparently a function of the combo of source devices and display you are using.


Whatever is going on, the result is not subtle. If you have the problem you won't have video, even to the extent of losing video from OTHER sources that are not set at 1080i. By all reports, the current test software available from Anthem tech support has fixed the problem. On the other hand, if you don't have the problem it is probably best to stick with your current software until Anthem makes its next public software release.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why is it that this "1080i bug" only affected "some" V1.11 owners? Wouldn't the software be identical? It seems strange that only some units would be affected by this, and not others, assuming they are using the same FW version.



Hi Rob


I never understood this so called 1080i bug

with FW 1.11 either. When I bought my D2

it had 1.06. I upgraded to 1.11 and in my

Theater - I can not point to a single D2 thing

that NEEDS FIXING.


I PROMISE YOU - I will be every SLOW to upgrade

to any final release version of the FW. If it is just

BUG fixes and no NEW FEATURES - I'm sticking

with 1.11 - because it works great in my setup.


----------



## 3Dfx

My AVM50 took 3 weeks to arrive as they were backordered at the time. Apparently only D2's were in production. This was according to my dealer who stated they had just fullfilled all of their D2 orders. It sounds like they may alternate production runs.


According to the shipping box my unit is using ver 1.11 and it does appear to have the 1080i bug, although only 1080i output seems to be affected. If I set the TiVo to output 720p, 480p or 480i (via component), all is well. I have not tried my BDP-HD1 yet which is using HDMI out. AVM50 to TV is HDMI.


Bob, thanks for the firmware update instructions. I've read the other posts detailing the procedure as well. I'm accustomed to performing firmware updates on other devices so hopefully it won't be a problem. I'll use my laptop which has a real serial port.


Question: what serial port settings does the Anthem/FW update require (Baud rate, stop bits), etc?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question: what serial port settings does the Anthem/FW update require (Baud rate, stop bits), etc?



That's detailed in the instructions that come in the install kit. If you'd like an early look, you can download the V1.11 install kit from the Anthem web site and read the instructions with it. Of course you should only actually use the apps and instructions that are sent to you as part of the V1.11g kit.


So far, we haven't had any reports here that firmware install problems were caused by people failing to manually set up their serial port correctly. It looks like the Anthem Windows software apps are configuring all that OK by themselves (baud rate in particular) without users having to do any manual adjustments ahead of time. I.e., the Windows default settings for the serial port should be fine as is.


So if your serial connection is working OK when you run Setup Editor and Live Video Settings Editor to save the Anthem menu settings to PC files, then you are probably also OK with the serial port as is for the software install itself. This is another good reason to fire up Setup Editor (and Live Video Settings Editor for V1.11g or later) to save settings prior to the install. By the way, you should use the version that comes in the new install kit both for saving settings to the PC and, if necessary, restoring settings. Always use the latest version that you have of Setup Editor or Live Video Settings Editor both for saving and restoring.


Anthem's improvements to the installer since V1.10 have all apparently related to how it buffers both transfers to the Anthem and verification reads back from the Anthem in the course of programming and verifying the different parts of the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

Reading this thread has me dying to get my AVM50, looks like I wasn't able to work out a good deal on a D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Reading this thread has me dying to get my AVM50, looks like I wasn't able to work out a good deal on a D2.



Were you able to reach anyone over the weekend to sort out your dealer's current "authorized" status?

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Were you able to reach anyone over the weekend to sort out your dealer's current "authorized" status?
> 
> --Bob



Nope, but it will be my first call on Monday.


Michael


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I suspect you'll discover it's just an error in the Anthem web site's data. In my case the dealer I used was listed, but with the wrong phone number. Your dealer should thank you for sorting this out and helping him unload his inventory of 4 D2's!

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I PROMISE YOU - I will be every SLOW to upgrade
> 
> to any final release version of the FW. If it is just
> 
> BUG fixes and no NEW FEATURES - I'm sticking
> 
> with 1.11 - because it works great in my setup.



Speaking of which I can't get the XA2 to work with either 11f (lacks stability) and 11g (no HDMI audio). Seems like a big step reverse which may be holding up the production 12.




Anyone successfully using 11g with the Tosh XA2 using HDMI audio?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Speaking of which I can't get the XA2 to work with either 11f (lacks stability) and 11g (no HDMI audio). Seems like a big step reverse which may be holding up the production 12.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone successfully using 11g with the Tosh XA2 using HDMI audio?



I have the Toshiba HD-A1 - FW 2.0 and it works fine

with the D2 FW 1.11 - the Toshiba even worked fine

with the D2 FW 1.06.


----------



## jkmw

I'm begining to think equipment issues as my home theater build (started in July) nears the paint and wiring phase, and I wanted to ask a question about amplification that might have implications for my D2. I bought a P5 from my dealer in December, (good end of year deal!) but am running a 7 channel set up. Can't afford a P2 now so had planned to use two of the seven channels in my old B&k Ref 200.7 to power the two rear speakers. I have zero electronics engineering training or experience but common sense seems to indicate that it's all transparent to the D2, it doesn't care what amp it sends it's analog output to. Am I correct? If there is a volume level issue, I can re-adjust the relative level from the setup menu...yes? (not relevant to this thread but I was planning to use some of the other B&K channels for a stereo zone 2 set up. If someone would like to offer me some advice on the feasibility of this I would appreciate it very much. should probably send me a PM)


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Speaking of which I can't get the XA2 to work with either 11f (lacks stability) and 11g (no HDMI audio). Seems like a big step reverse which may be holding up the production 12.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone successfully using 11g with the Tosh XA2 using HDMI audio?




I have an XA2 and under both the shipped and new Toshiba firmware it works great (much better than the A1 I have). It goes into a Sony Qualia 006. I only have the "e" version firmware. YMMV...


----------



## jorsan

I know that this has been answered several times in the past but .... how can I see the software version installed in my AVM50?. Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jorsan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know that this has been answered several times in the past but .... how can I see the software version installed in my AVM50?. Thanks



Turn it on!


If you don't see it then - Press SELECT


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkmw* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm begining to think equipment issues as my home theater build (started in July) nears the paint and wiring phase, and I wanted to ask a question about amplification that might have implications for my D2. I bought a P5 from my dealer in December, (good end of year deal!) but am running a 7 channel set up. Can't afford a P2 now so had planned to use two of the seven channels in my old B&k Ref 200.7 to power the two rear speakers. I have zero electronics engineering training or experience but common sense seems to indicate that it's all transparent to the D2, it doesn't care what amp it sends it's analog output to. Am I correct? If there is a volume level issue, I can re-adjust the relative level from the setup menu...yes? (not relevant to this thread but I was planning to use some of the other B&K channels for a stereo zone 2 set up. If someone would like to offer me some advice on the feasibility of this I would appreciate it very much. should probably send me a PM)



Yup - I run 7.1 out of the D2 to a total of 10 Different Amplifiers.


----------



## jorsan

Thanks drhankz, I was waiting to see it in the mainscreen of my TV and was in the unit's screen.


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jorsan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks drhankz, I was waiting to see it in the mainscreen of my TV and was in the unit's screen.



It *should* be on the main screen of your tv, as well as volume etc. You may need to check your setting within the menu.


Once in the menu-


go to option 11-DISPLAYS/TIMEOUT


Then choose---a. MAIN ON-SCREEN-S-V + HD (allows on screen to work with sd & HD material)


Then go to J. DISPLAY TIMEOUT (choose how long you would like the text to show on screen)


Within this menu you can also choose a different location for the text to be displayed on your screen, among other things.


Mark


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jorsan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks drhankz, I was waiting to see it in the mainscreen of my TV and was in the unit's screen.



If you press SELECT - you get it to show on your TV Screen.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have an XA2 and under both the shipped and new Toshiba firmware it works great (much better than the A1 I have). It goes into a Sony Qualia 006. I only have the "e" version firmware. YMMV...




Hank & Joe,


Specifically looking for anyone specifically using 11g and XA2 successfully together.


I know Hank is going to hold until something compelling hits the firmware update. Joe, do not upgrade past e (unless you want to test it) because I think you'll be heading back to 11e (backgrade ?) if you do.


Tim


----------



## jorsan

Now works fine, thanks for your help.


----------



## 3Dfx

Does it matter what order things are turned on so the MCA50 is also turned on when the AVM50 receives an audio signal?


I turned on the AVM50 but there was no audio as the amp didn't turn on. The only audio input is from the S3 TiVo which is always "on".


It seems the only way I can get audio is to first turn on the TV, followed by the AVM50 and then going into the TiVo menu (whether I want/need to or not).


I don't want to leave the amp on all the time. It is set to auto on.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does it matter what order things are turned on so the MCA50 is also turned on when the AVM50 receives an audio signal?
> 
> 
> I turned on the AVM50 but there was no audio as the amp didn't turn on. The only audio input is from the S3 TiVo which is always "on".
> 
> 
> It seems the only way I can get audio is to first turn on the TV, followed by the AVM50 and then going into the TiVo menu (whether I want/need to or not).
> 
> 
> I don't want to leave the amp on all the time. It is set to auto on.



No it shouldn't matter what order you turn things on.


Are you using HDMI from the Tivo? If so, be sure you set HDMI Repeater = NO in the Anthem Setup / Source Setup for that input. That will make the HDMI connection from the Tivo work whether or not your TV is turned on.


There have been a few S3 related problems addressed in the test software after V1.11. Since you already have to fix the 1080i problem, you might want to hold off diagnosing this further until you get that software.


By pressing Select on the Anthem remote multiple times you will get a series of status displays -- one of which will tell you what the Anthem is seeing as audio input. This will tell you whether or not the problem is no audio input as opposed to no audio output.

--Bob


----------



## 3Dfx

I'm using component out from the TiVo along with coaxial optical (Toslink) audio. The AVM50 was apparently not receiving any audio because the MCA50 did not turn on until I went into the TiVo menu.


I went into the TiVo menus as a test because I knew that would generate a beep, which it did and the amp then turned on.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone successfully using 11g with the Tosh XA2 using HDMI audio?



No.. I can get no audio over HDMI with my XA2 using 1.11g...


I did fix my handshake issues with my Directv H20 using HDMI, but now I cannot watch HD DVD's










I am sure that Nick is on it....


Anybody want to send me 1.11e or should I just go back to 1.11 Release?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does it matter what order things are turned on so the MCA50 is also turned on when the AVM50 receives an audio signal?.



I do not KNOW if it matters - but I use a Crestron Control

System and I can program it to do anything including making

COFFEE










The Power Sequence order I use is --


1) HDMI sources


2) Ruby Projector - aka DISPLAY


3) Other Sources


4) D2


AGAIN - I do not know if it matters but all the sources

and the display seem to be happy.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does it matter what order things are turned on so the MCA50 is also turned on when the AVM50 receives an audio signal?



It should fire up immediately with the correct trigger cable between the two and the correct dip set on the amp.


----------



## DreamCatcher

It's time for my weekly question.........

When and Where is the

ROOM EQ upgrade


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No.. I can get no audio over HDMI with my XA2 using 1.11g...
> 
> 
> I did fix my handshake issues with my Directv H20 using HDMI, but now I cannot watch HD DVD's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure that Nick is on it....



OK that's 2 for 2. I did send a note tp Nick but whatever he gets that's quantifiable I know will help. Don't want next production release of firmware to box out the XA2 crowd. PM sent.


----------



## 3Dfx

The switch on the amp is set to auto on. The audio input is optical digital from the TiVo. However, the amp does not turn on unless and until I go into the TiVo menus, which then generates sounds and thus turns on the amp.


That is odd because the TiVo is "on" all the time.


The only "trigger", in fact the only connection, between the AVM50 and MCA50 are the XLR cables. The amp is supposed to turn on when the AVM50 senses an audio signal.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/0
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 
> That's not entirely true. While you do get access to the 4 most important Gennum VXP features (TruMotionHD, FineEdge, FideltyEngine, RealityExpansion) in the RS-1, you don't get near the flexibility, adjustments and options that you get with the 50 or D2. I also have an RS1 on order and currently own an AVM 50. I've been reading your emails in the projector section and I can see you know your PJ's. So you know the user menu and options on the RS1 are very weak. So weak that several people are passing on the RS-1 despite it's great performance. While performance is "hopefully" :0) fantastic on the RS-1 you don't have access to RGB colors, gamma, stretch, DNR, etc. Gennum controls like you do in the Anthem's... There are so many more VXP features that you get access to through the Anthem that you'll never get with the RS-1. The VXP menu on the Anthem is 8 tabs thick with a ton of user adjustable settings. I don't understand what half of them do.
> 
> 
> I'm a total novice and I'm still learning AV/HT but I'm amazed at the level of control, features and flexibility the AVM 50 provides. You'll get access to 10% of those features in the RS-1. You need to go check out the scalar adjustment menu in the D2. There are a TON of options, options JVC will never offer and can't. JVC won't make the investment to keep updating it like Anthem does. Plus as time goes on, Anthem will add or upgrade those features as new technology and feature requests emerge. I highly doubt the RS-1 is going to have those same future features. JVC has stated that they will limit the firmware upgrades; if provide them at all. If my memory is correct, it's going to be a major PITA to upgrade the RS-1 while the Anthem is a piece of cake. Anthem is continually updating the firmware to add more features and adjustments. Heck they just changed the interface and it's so much better.
> 
> 
> If you want total and complete control of your scalar (horsepower) features then you need to get the D2 or AVM 50. While you'll have some redundant features (see above), the dual processing (D2 to RS-1) will guarantee that nothing will be missed since the content will go through the processor twice. I view it this way, the AVM 50 is where I do all my hard core super freak adjustments and the RS-1 is where I'll make minor real time changes depending on what content is showing that day and what the room conditions call for (brightness, contrast, sharpness).
> 
> 
> Lastly, the audio on the AVM 50 is sick. These scalar features are pure upside. One other positive, the AVM 50 allows me to have more input devices since there are more ports on the AVM 50 than the RS-1. Finally, what happens if your RS-1 catches on fire and you swear to never buy another JVC product? Your Gennum VXP went away with your PJ; with the Anthem you always have a VXP no matter what toy you're watching your content on. So as you change PJ's, your settings stay and you keep your processing engine/power.
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> Big Tex



Big Tex-


Hope you are still following this thread, and wanted to say that this post really did a lot to get it through my thick head just how much the AVM50/D2 could do for me with the RS1, in addition to the audio advantages....to the point that I finally ordered the D2.


I hope you will post more often, as I am sure that others enjoy your posts as well.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The switch on the amp is set to auto on. The audio input is optical digital from the TiVo. However, the amp does not turn on unless and until I go into the TiVo menus, which then generates sounds and thus turns on the amp.
> 
> 
> That is odd because the TiVo is "on" all the time.
> 
> 
> The only "trigger", in fact the only connection, between the AVM50 and MCA50 are the XLR cables. The amp is supposed to turn on when the AVM50 senses an audio signal.



Turn the switch from "auto" to "trigger" and get an 1/8" cable to go between the AVM50 & the MCA50.


The amp isn't turning on, after it is shut off, because the Amp needs sound to do the trigger in auto. The ambient volume is just not significant after the AVM50 startup to start the amp in auto. For the cost of a $2 cable at Radio Shack that you likely have sitting around you will be able to make the issue go away and turn on with the AVM50 and off with the AVM50.


That 8 page manual that comes with the amp is less imposing than the AVM manual.


----------



## jkmw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yup - I run 7.1 out of the D2 to a total of 10 Different Amplifiers.




Thanks drhankz!


----------



## LEVESQUE

3Dfx


Did you set "ALL TRIGGERS: enabled" in the menu 10.a. ? And there you also have to set each 12V trigger in 10 a., b. or c.. by pressing on it and accessing another sub-menu. You have to have a star ( * ) on MAIN in the one you use for your amps.


Maybe you did it already. Just want to be sure.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Rob
> 
> 
> I never understood this so called 1080i bug
> 
> with FW 1.11 either. When I bought my D2
> 
> it had 1.06. I upgraded to 1.11 and in my
> 
> Theater - I can not point to a single D2 thing
> 
> that NEEDS FIXING.
> 
> 
> I PROMISE YOU - I will be every SLOW to upgrade
> 
> to any final release version of the FW. If it is just
> 
> BUG fixes and no NEW FEATURES - I'm sticking
> 
> with 1.11 - because it works great in my setup.




Same thing here, no issues and will keep 1.11 until the next official release is out.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Speaking of which I can't get the XA2 to work with either 11f (lacks stability) and 11g (no HDMI audio). Seems like a big step reverse which may be holding up the production 12.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone successfully using 11g with the Tosh XA2 using HDMI audio?




I have the XA2 and it is working fine with 1.11.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No.. I can get no audio over HDMI with my XA2 using 1.11g...
> 
> 
> I did fix my handshake issues with my Directv H20 using HDMI, but now I cannot watch HD DVD's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure that Nick is on it....
> 
> 
> Anybody want to send me 1.11e or should I just go back to 1.11 Release?




This is why I am sticking to 1.11. Running on Beta software is not always a good thing unless you really need to correct an issue.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Big Tex-
> 
> 
> Hope you are still following this thread, and wanted to say that this post really did a lot to get it through my thick head just how much the AVM50/D2 could do for me with the RS1, in addition to the audio advantages....to the point that I finally ordered the D2.
> 
> 
> I hope you will post more often, as I am sure that others enjoy your posts as well.



After trying the RS1 for a day, It was obvious that the Gennum chip is not used to the full extend that it is used in the D2.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

How many here are sending a 1080p/24 signal from the AVM50/D2 to a 1080p projector?


I'm just trying to determine how widespread that problem is. Does everyone have this problem, or is it like the 1080i "bug" where some have it and some don't?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How many here are sending a 1080p/24 signal from the AVM50/D2 to a 1080p projector?
> 
> 
> I'm just trying to determine how widespread that problem is. Does everyone have this problem, or is it like the 1080i "bug" where some have it and some don't?



I'm not aware of any 1080p/24 bug. I do know Anthem

is tweaking the 1080p/24 parameters for the Pearl. The

STOCK 1080p/24 parameters work fine with the Ruby.

With my Ruby - the picture is better at 1080p/60 than

1080p/24 - that is a Ruby problem not a D2 problem.


The Video Editor lets you create any set of video parameters

you can dream up.


----------



## LEVESQUE

Rob.


1080p24 is not really a "standard" right now, so we sometimes have to make some small adjustments to make it work with different projectors.


For exemple, the Sony Pearl needs a "custom" 1080p24 (output) to work with the D2, but not the JVC RS-1/HD-1. So Sony and JVC are not using the "same" 1080p24...


What Bob is talking about is when inputting 1080p60 to the D2 and then outputting 1080p24 to a projector. The DVDO VP50 btw has the xact same "problem". Exact same thing. Almost all the high-end scalers are having the same problem. So if you're using a 1080p24 player, like the Pioneer BDP-HD1, there will not be any problems.


Anthem are working on it. DVDO are still trying to solve the same problem with the VP50. And I think that the Crystalio II is still having issues also with 1080p24.


----------



## JeffDL

**first post**!!!


Anyway I just got my D2 set up still tweeking (do you ever actually stop tweeking the unit not the meth tweek) anyway it showed up with v1.11. Would not display a 1080i signal from my HD cable box. Nick sent me the 1.11g FW installed and all is working correctly. anyway I have an AX2 but have not tried to get audio through HDMI, running digital coax for all audio with no issues. I need to upgrade the AX2 to 1.3 though as I am seeing some minor issues with it hopefully get to that tonight.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> **first post**!!!
> 
> 
> Anyway I just got my D2 set up still tweeking (do you ever actually stop tweeking the unit not the meth tweek) anyway it showed up with v1.11. Would not display a 1080i signal from my HD cable box. Nick sent me the 1.11g FW installed and all is working correctly. anyway I have an AX2 but have not tried to get audio through HDMI, running digital coax for all audio with no issues. I need to upgrade the AX2 to 1.3 though as I am seeing some minor issues with it hopefully get to that tonight.



Jeff, welcome to the club! I'm glad things are progressing smoothly for you.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob.
> 
> 
> 1080p24 is not really a "standard" right now, so we sometimes have to make some small adjustments to make it work with different projectors.
> 
> 
> For exemple, the Sony Pearl needs a "custom" 1080p24 (output) to work with the D2, but not the JVC RS-1/HD-1. So Sony and JVC are not using the "same" 1080p24...
> 
> 
> What Bob is talking about is when inputting 1080p60 to the D2 and then outputting 1080p24 to a projector. The DVDO VP50 btw has the xact same "problem". Exact same thing. Almost all the high-end scalers are having the same problem. So if you're using a 1080p24 player, like the Pioneer BDP-HD1, there will not be any problems.
> 
> 
> Anthem are working on it. DVDO are still trying to solve the same problem with the VP50. And I think that the Crystalio II is still having issues also with 1080p24.



Thanks Levesque.


So, is there any problem sending a 1080i/60 signal from my Toshiba HD-DVD player to the D2, and having the D2 sending a 1080p/24 signal to the RS1?


BTW, I sent an email to Nick on this issue, and I received a response in 15 minutes!







He discussed the 24 fps actually meaning different things with different manufacturers, so they have instituted a frame lock option.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> **first post**!!!
> 
> 
> Anyway I just got my D2 set up still tweeking (do you ever actually stop tweeking the unit not the meth tweek) anyway it showed up with v1.11. Would not display a 1080i signal from my HD cable box. Nick sent me the 1.11g FW installed and all is working correctly. anyway I have an AX2 but have not tried to get audio through HDMI, running digital coax for all audio with no issues. I need to upgrade the AX2 to 1.3 though as I am seeing some minor issues with it hopefully get to that tonight.



All new members to the club should be greeted with our official mascot:


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, is there any problem sending a 1080i/60 signal from my Toshiba HD-DVD player to the D2, and having the D2 sending a 1080p/24 signal to the RS1?



None that I am aware of, or nothing we could easily solve.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> He discussed the 24 fps actually meaning different things with different manufacturers, so they have instituted a frame lock option.



1080p24 is fairly new for everyone, and you can count the displays and sources that can do it on the fingers of your 2 hands. But we will see more and more of those in the upcoming months. And unlike alot of other manufacturers, Anthem were ready for it. But Anthem are trying to "patch" for all those "different meanings" between manufacturers, and it's not always easy.


Probably that over 95% (or more!) of the D2/AVM50 owners are using 1080p60, 720p60 anyway. So it's nice that we can already use 1080p24 so early in the game with the Anthems. But it's fairly new, and everyone need to make some adjustment to use it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Levesque.
> 
> 
> So, is there any problem sending a 1080i/60 signal from my Toshiba HD-DVD player to the D2, and having the D2 sending a 1080p/24 signal to the RS1?
> 
> 
> BTW, I sent an email to Nick on this issue, and I received a response in 15 minutes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He discussed the 24 fps actually meaning different things with different manufacturers, so they have instituted a frame lock option.



From the reports we've had here there are two different things going on.


First, some displays need custom video timings for 1080p/24Hz video. The Sony Pearl appears to be one of those. This is really no different than some of the 768p displays needing slightly different timings for their 768p native resolution -- except that I think it more likely display manufacturers will rapidly converge on just one "normal" way of handling 1080p/24Hz video as time goes by.


The symptom, if your projector has this issue, is no video at 1080p/24Hz or video that ALWAYS stutters -- pretty dramatically by all accounts -- when playing film-rate content. This symptom should be present even if the source is sending 1080p/24Hz to the Anthem.


The solution is to create a Custom video output resolution for the Anthem and enter it into the Anthem using Live Video Settings Editor. Video timings that appear to work for the Pearl can be found in a link in the first post of this thread.


-------------------------------------------------


Second, the Anthem apparently has a problem extracting film-rate content embedded in a 1080i/60Hz stream and frame rate converting it properly to 1080p/24Hz output. The problem appears to be that the Anthem loses track of the field repeat cadence which has been added to the film-rate content to raise it to the video-rate (1080i/60Hz) signal in the first place. Part of the difficulty diagnosing this is that it is not yet clear that players producing 1080i/60Hz output are actually doing it correctly given edits/cuts in the film content coming off the disc and also given overlay of extra video on top of the film content that is likely 1080i/60Hz to begin with.


The symptom in this case is different. Normally you will get judder free video (presuming you are using a display that implements a refresh rate which is a multiple of /24Hz). But at some point, an edit or some such in the movie will cause the Anthem to lose track and judder will re-appear and likely stay there for a while. This is "normal" cadence judder -- not as dramatic as the problem described above. Cadence judder, for example, exists every time you watch a movie on a normal TV setup (/60Hz video and refresh rate). Many people can't see cadence judder, even when told it is there, unless they have a judder-free setup side by side for comparison.


This is a bug that Anthem has reproduced and is working to correct (as per poster SFIELD).


Note that the Anthem has to do the film cadence detection properly to do proper de-interlacing of 1080i/60Hz to 1080p/60Hz, which by all accounts is working just fine, so I suspect whatever's going wrong in 1080i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz will likely not be all that tough for them to correct -- presuming the players are actually doing the right thing themselves.

--Bob


----------



## JeffDL

Thanks for the welcome. So understanding I am new here and all I do have a noob question. I have read through just about all of this thread (kills large chunks of time at work) I'm not sure I have seen this or not but I will ask anyway. I have had my tv, JVC 61-FH97, ISF calibrated now using the D2 scaler do zero out all of the picture settings on my TV and then recalibrate through the D2? Or should I be using the D2 to "fine tune" my current settings?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the welcome. So understanding I am new here and all I do have a noob question. I have read through just about all of this thread (kills large chunks of time at work) I'm not sure I have seen this or not but I will ask anyway. I have had my tv, JVC 61-FH97, ISF calibrated now using the D2 scaler do zero out all of the picture settings on my TV and then recalibrate through the D2? Or should I be using the D2 to "fine tune" my current settings?



Ideally, you should have your ISF tech come back and re-calibrate the settings in your display to best reproduce the test patterns internally generated in the D2.


The test patterns are found in the Video Source Adjust menu -- hold down the "7" key on the remote. They are independent of any source -- only varying according to what you have specified in the Setup / Video Output menu. It is the D2's job to convert whatever you feed it as source video into a video output stream that matches those test patterns.


Whether this results in any change in your TV settings depends on how your ISF tech set up your TV. One way to calibrate is to set the TV to an accurate standard (independent of your sources) and then to make adjustments inside each source device to meet that standard. Another, more common, way is to set your TV so that each input is paired with the particular video output of one of your sources. In that case the TV's settings are different for each source so as to correct for variations between the sources.


If he set the TV to match his signal generators then your TV will likely not need any significant changes since the Anthem's video output signals are very accurate. He can bring up the Anthem test patterns and re-measure your TV to verify. He would then likely zero out any video adjustments he made inside each source and, instead, use the Anthem's source input adjustments (again in the Video Source Adjust menu while viewing each source in turn) to deal with variations for each source.


If he did the more common thing of adjusting each of your TV's inputs to match the peculiarities of just one source device each, then he will need to change that. The process is to set the TV levels to match the output video generated by the D2 (as shown in the D2's internally generated test patterns) and then adjust for differences for each source device in the D2's Video Source Adjust menu while running test patterns through each source device.


--------------------------------------------------------


If you'd like to do this yourself without the ISF tech's fancy equipment, the details can be found in the "video calibration for non-ISF techs" link in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> **first post**!!!
> 
> 
> Anyway I just got my D2 set up still tweeking (do you ever actually stop tweeking the unit not the meth tweek) anyway it showed up with v1.11. Would not display a 1080i signal from my HD cable box. Nick sent me the 1.11g FW installed and all is working correctly. anyway I have an AX2 but have not tried to get audio through HDMI, running digital coax for all audio with no issues. I need to upgrade the AX2 to 1.3 though as I am seeing some minor issues with it hopefully get to that tonight.



Jeff,


Congrats. If you do have the opportunity I would try to audio over HDMI for 2 reasons, 1) further confirm something may of broke in the beta cycle which can be fixed before the next production release, 2) you'll wanted to being doing HDMI PCM for your


Your a good example of someone who needs the post- production release 11 but the tradeoff is other works in progress. You did get a good workaround so all those hours aren't wasted










Tim


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Were you able to reach anyone over the weekend to sort out your dealer's current "authorized" status?
> 
> --Bob




Anthem made some changes to the website, and some of the dealers fell of the list, the one I am working with is still a dealer.


So should I buy a AVM50 at MSRP, or if they offer a D2 at 20% off, which would you pick? The cost would be about $750 more.


Michael


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So should I buy a AVM50 at MSRP, or if they offer a D2 at 20% off, which would you pick? The cost would be about $750 more.
> 
> 
> Michael



That is a SIMPLE choice in my BOOK










ANSWER = D2 @ 20% discount.


----------



## JeffDL

I agree D2 all the way. I had an AVM 50 and 40 for a little while, while the 50 was being repaired (2 bad HDMI outs) was given a 40 to keep me up and running. The 50 came back with some other issues so I just replaced it with the D2. The sound difference is amazing to say the least. I couldn't believe the improvement was almost night and day. So for $750 more I would go D2 all the way.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is a SIMPLE choice in my BOOK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ANSWER = D2 @ 20% discount.




Sheeesh, great minds think alike.......grab it(D2) and run like in the Wallmart commercial before they wake up and want it back!!!!!!!


Seriously this is a no brainer!


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nab the D2 and get them to throw in some free cables for having fixed their authorized listing problem on the Anthem web site.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball

Bob Pariseau,

Quick question....I volunteered my theater for an AVS event with Amirm from Microsoft presenting a special insiders overview on HD DVD. As part of the event we are going to do a serious calibration in preparation for the event. I live within a couple of miles of Anthem. Do you think if the whole world minus you and hank and Alain and filmmixer is going to come for two nights of info that maybe Anthem might be interested to ensure that I have the D2 and P5/P2 properly configured for the event?


Would this be something I would fly by Nick????I am getting a new bulb for the Ruby in honour of the event so it should be awesome.


----------



## AnthemAVM

I spoke to my dealer today, and told him that I would wait for the AVM50 or get a D2 if we can see a 15% to 20% discount. He can't go over specific on the phone, but said he would hook me up. So looks like the D2, only problem is it has the wings, which might not fit my cabinet.


Do those things come off?


Michael


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob Pariseau,
> 
> Quick question....I volunteered my theater for an AVS event with Amirm from Microsoft presenting a special insiders overview on HD DVD. As part of the event we are going to do a serious calibration in preparation for the event. I live within a couple of miles of Anthem. Do you think if the whole world minus you and hank and Alain and filmmixer is going to come for two nights of info that maybe Anthem might be interested to ensure that I have the D2 and P5/P2 properly configured for the event?
> 
> 
> Would this be something I would fly by Nick????I am getting a new bulb for the Ruby in honour of the event so it should be awesome.



It wouldn't hurt to ask, but I don't know whether they have calibration techs they could dispatch. I mean they've undoubtedly got the gear and the expertise, but they don't likely have it set up in a road package to go since they would typically only need that for trade shows. On the other hand, they probably know who in your area could do it well, and might be willing to cover at least some of the cost if they can't just tackle it themselves. Keep in mind that a lot of the expertise in video calibration is in knowing the pecularities of THE DISPLAY.


At the very least you'll want to have the right software to get HDMI audio from the XA2. (grin!)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I spoke to my dealer today, and told him that I would wait for the AVM50 or get a D2 if we can see a 15% to 20% discount. He can't go over specific on the phone, but said he would hook me up. So looks like the D2, only problem is it has the wings, which might not fit my cabinet.
> 
> 
> Do those things come off?
> 
> 
> Michael



Not without a hacksaw.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I spoke to my dealer today, and told him that I would wait for the AVM50 or get a D2 if we can see a 15% to 20% discount. He can't go over specific on the phone, but said he would hook me up. So looks like the D2, only problem is it has the wings, which might not fit my cabinet.
> 
> 
> Do those things come off?
> 
> 
> Michael




Michael,

More important is air......it can run hot without sufficient air circulation. you really need the 2" or more air around the whole unit....... Check the diag in the manual on site. I always thought the wings were a special order.......


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I spoke to my dealer today, and told him that I would wait for the AVM50 or get a D2 if we can see a 15% to 20% discount. He can't go over specific on the phone, but said he would hook me up. So looks like the D2, only problem is it has the wings, which might not fit my cabinet.
> 
> 
> Do those things come off?
> 
> 
> Michael



If they are NOT RACK mount wings they come off.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not without a hacksaw.
> 
> --Bob


*VERY NOT TRUE BOB!*


For once I one UPPED Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It wouldn't hurt to ask, but I don't know whether they have calibration techs they could dispatch. I mean they've undoubtedly got the gear and the expertise, but they don't likely have it set up in a road package to go since they would typically only need that for trade shows. On the other hand, they probably know who in your area could do it well, and might be willing to cover at least some of the cost if they can't just tackle it themselves. Keep in mind that a lot of the expertise in video calibration is in knowing the pecularities of THE DISPLAY.
> 
> 
> At the very least you'll want to have the right software to get HDMI audio from the XA2. (grin!)
> 
> --Bob



The XA2 is current and behaving well. I am still using 1.10 on the D2 and was reluctant to risk 1.11(x). Are you hinting (with an iron mallet) that I need 1.1(g)?


Peter

ps. don't tell Hank........I don't have a dock big enough for him to park!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The XA2 is current and behaving well. I am still using 1.10 on the D2 and was reluctant to risk 1.11(x). Are you hinting (with an iron mallet) that I need 1.1(g)?
> 
> 
> Peter
> 
> ps. don't tell Hank........I don't have a dock big enough for him to park!!!!



No. Apparently the idea is that you DON'T WANT V1.11g. Read the reports above. V1.11g and XA2 audio don't play well together.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> *VERY NOT TRUE BOB!*
> 
> 
> For once I one UPPED Bob



Well I see that they are not milled from the same metal as the face plate. But where are the attachments? Inside the chassis cover?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I see that they are not milled from the same metal as the face plate. But where are the attachments? Inside the chassis cover?
> 
> --Bob



YUP - Two allen screw inside the Chassis.


I took mine off the first day I got them and put them on

my milling machine to make a non-rack mount D2 into

a rack mount D2.


See the Picture below.


----------



## PooperScooper

I shouldn't have deleted my post.







I had the choice of 17" or 19" when ordering. However it seems you can make a 19" model 17" inches wide. Is is the same as what you get if ordering a 17"?


larry


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I shouldn't have deleted my post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had the choice of 17" or 19" when ordering. However it seems you can make a 19" model 17" inches wide. Is is the same as what you get if ordering a 17"?
> 
> 
> larry



Not Everyone has choices







Don't Ask Why!


Mine was a Vanilla D2 that I converted to rack mount.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you think if the whole world minus you and hank and Alain and filmmixer is going to come for two nights .



So what you are saying here Peter is ---


The WHOLE WORLD is invited to your House -
*EXCEPT, Bob, Hank, Alain and Marc?*


NICE GUY - We know where we STAND!


----------



## Donloz

If that $750 is american, i'd jump allover it, but if its that CANADIAN MONEY< i'd RUN to your dealer. I think the D2 is a MONSTER. ENJOY


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So what you are saying here Peter is ---
> 
> 
> The WHOLE WORLD is invited to your House -
> *EXCEPT, Bob, Hank, Alain and Marc?*
> 
> 
> NICE GUY - We know where we STAND!



The truth is that coming over here would be the same thing as staying home in your case except for the 20,000 watts that would be missing! Mind you it might not hurt for you to get a glimpse as to how some of the common folk live.


Peter


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> YUP - Two allen screw inside the Chassis.
> 
> 
> I took mine off the first day I got them and put them on
> 
> my milling machine to make a non-rack mount D2 into
> 
> a rack mount D2.
> 
> 
> See the Picture below.




Very nice work......looks awesome!


Peter


----------



## 3Dfx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks like you ran into the "1080i bug". Go back to the previous "page" or so and Bob helps somebody diagnose a similar issue to see if it is the "1080i bug" or not. (post #4900).





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anthem tech support will likely email you the V1.11g test software which apparently fixes this bug.



That's what it was alright. Nick sent me 1.11g. I had it before I hung up. Installed it without issue. Anthem (and this forum) rock.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Turn the switch from "auto" to "trigger" and get an 1/8" cable to go between the AVM50 & the MCA50.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Levesque* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did you set "ALL TRIGGERS: enabled" in the menu 10.a. ? And there you also have to set each 12V trigger in 10 a., b. or c.. by pressing on it and accessing another sub-menu. You have to have a star ( * ) on MAIN in the one you use for your amps.
> 
> 
> Maybe you did it already. Just want to be sure.



Thanks. I did as you both suggested and that worked.







I should have thought of it as I did and always do read the manuals. As I get older my reading comprehension must be slipping.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> From the reports we've had here there are two different things going on.
> 
> 
> First, some displays need custom video timings for 1080p/24Hz video. The Sony Pearl appears to be one of those. This is really no different than some of the 768p displays needing slightly different timings for their 768p native resolution -- except that I think it more likely display manufacturers will rapidly converge on just one "normal" way of handling 1080p/24Hz video as time goes by.
> 
> 
> The symptom, if your projector has this issue, is no video at 1080p/24Hz or video that ALWAYS stutters -- pretty dramatically by all accounts -- when playing film-rate content. This symptom should be present even if the source is sending 1080p/24Hz to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> The solution is to create a Custom video output resolution for the Anthem and enter it into the Anthem using Live Video Settings Editor. Video timings that appear to work for the Pearl can be found in a link in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Second, the Anthem apparently has a problem extracting film-rate content embedded in a 1080i/60Hz stream and frame rate converting it properly to 1080p/24Hz output. The problem appears to be that the Anthem loses track of the field repeat cadence which has been added to the film-rate content to raise it to the video-rate (1080i/60Hz) signal in the first place. Part of the difficulty diagnosing this is that it is not yet clear that players producing 1080i/60Hz output are actually doing it correctly given edits/cuts in the film content coming off the disc and also given overlay of extra video on top of the film content that is likely 1080i/60Hz to begin with.
> 
> 
> The symptom in this case is different. Normally you will get judder free video (presuming you are using a display that implements a refresh rate which is a multiple of /24Hz). But at some point, an edit or some such in the movie will cause the Anthem to lose track and judder will re-appear and likely stay there for a while. This is "normal" cadence judder -- not as dramatic as the problem described above. Cadence judder, for example, exists every time you watch a movie on a normal TV setup (/60Hz video and refresh rate). Many people can't see cadence judder, even when told it is there, unless they have a judder-free setup side by side for comparison.
> 
> 
> This is a bug that Anthem has reproduced and is working to correct (as per poster SFIELD).
> 
> 
> Note that the Anthem has to do the film cadence detection properly to do proper de-interlacing of 1080i/60Hz to 1080p/60Hz, which by all accounts is working just fine, so I suspect whatever's going wrong in 1080i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz will likely not be all that tough for them to correct -- presuming the players are actually doing the right thing themselves.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. This seems to be consistent with what Nick told me in the follow up email he sent. As you say, they are aware of the issue and are working on it. Hopefully they will get it resolved soon. I must say that my first experience with Nick has been VERY positive!










On another issue, many people are indicating that they are seeing big improvements in PQ by using custom gamma settings with their VP (DVDO VP50 and Crystalio 2). I know the D2 does allow for some gamma controls. Are they custom, or are they pre-set values?


I think I need to download the D2 manual and just start reading through it.


EDIT: scratch the paragraph re custom gamma. Levesque answered my question in another thread! Thanks Levesque!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob.
> 
> 
> 1080p24 is not really a "standard" right now, so we sometimes have to make some small adjustments to make it work with different projectors.
> 
> 
> For exemple, the Sony Pearl needs a "custom" 1080p24 (output) to work with the D2, but not the JVC RS-1/HD-1. So Sony and JVC are not using the "same" 1080p24...
> 
> 
> What Bob is talking about is when inputting 1080p60 to the D2 and then outputting 1080p24 to a projector. The DVDO VP50 btw has the xact same "problem". Exact same thing. Almost all the high-end scalers are having the same problem. So if you're using a 1080p24 player, like the Pioneer BDP-HD1, there will not be any problems.
> 
> 
> Anthem are working on it. DVDO are still trying to solve the same problem with the VP50. And I think that the Crystalio II is still having issues also with 1080p24.




I'm just glad the Anthems are adjustable enough to be able to deal with these various requirements with different displays!


----------



## lalarsons

I am preparing my existing cabinet for the D2 and A5 which should arrive early next week. It is currently a "closed cabinet system" except for the solid double doors that open in the front. Two shelf areas; top with dimensions of 22"W x 24"D x 16"H, and bottom with dimensions of 22"W x 24"D x 14"H. Current plan is to put the D2 in the top shelf area and the A5 in the bottom area. Questions:


What heat issues do I face with that configuration, presuming I operate with the doors open, or operate with the doors closed IF I change from solid to perforated screen doors?


What other ventilation options would be recommended? Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am preparing my existing cabinet for the D2 and A5 which should arrive early next week. It is currently a "closed cabinet system" except for the solid double doors that open in the front. Two shelf areas; top with dimensions of 22"W x 24"D x 16"H, and bottom with dimensions of 22"W x 24"D x 14"H. Current plan is to put the D2 in the top shelf area and the A5 in the bottom area. Questions:
> 
> 
> What heat issues do I face with that configuration, presuming I operate with the doors open, or operate with the doors closed IF I change from solid to perforated screen doors?
> 
> 
> What other ventilation options would be recommended? Thanks



Rick, I have my D2 in an enclosed cabinet, however the cabinet has removable back panels. I removed the back panel and had the D2 in a single height space by itself. I wasn't completely happy with the inside temperature in the cabinet -- by the way, one of those remote sensing thermometers, usually shaped like a gun that you can point at a surface to measure its temp, works well for testing this (sold in cooking stores) -- so initially I tried an external box fan. That worked fine. Although the D2 itself got quite warm, particularly over the power supply, the surrounding cabinet wall temps indicated that the heat was all being dissipated just fine.


Then I reconfigured stuff and removed one shelf so that I could put the D2 by itself in a double height space -- again open to the rear. That put about 12 inches air space above the D2. In that configuration I find I don't even need the external fan to keep the ambient temperature down where I want it all around. Again it's not so much the warmth of the D2 itself that matters as what the D2 "sees" in the walls and air around it. If they are staying cool enough then the D2 is dissipating the heat as it is supposed to.


We have also had reports here that raising the D2 by as little as 1/2 inch with spacers under its feet also improves its ability to dissipate heat.

--Bob


----------



## funlvr1965

I would recommend putting fans inside the cabine to draw the heat out, whatever you do, dont do nothing currently a friend and I are addressing the blue screen issue which I encountered last night after just getting my D1 upgraded to D2 status, when I called him and told him that while watching the ps3 and the D2 It kept going from the movie to a bluescreen background and then back to the movie again, he said he had the same problem when using the D2 with the sony ps3 and he solved it by putting using fans to remove the hot air from the D2, strange it only seems to happen when he used the ps3 but he said that it worked for him, I have a vornado variable speed fan in the house which my wife brought downstairs and after blowing air onto the D2 we had no more problems watching the movie for the rest of the night, we are now looking at several different cooling components from cool-components.com give them a look, they have some real cool (pun inteded







) stuff


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No. Apparently the idea is that you DON'T WANT V1.11g. Read the reports above. V1.11g and XA2 audio don't play well together.
> 
> --Bob



Correct, either 11f or 11g is NOT good for the XA2 and HDMI audio.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's what it was alright. Nick sent me 1.11g. I had it before I hung up. Installed it without issue. Anthem (and this forum) rock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I did as you both suggested and that worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should have thought of it as I did and always do read the manuals. As I get older my reading comprehension must be slipping.



Cool, glad it's working.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Very nice work......looks awesome!
> 
> 
> Peter



Gee - Thanks - it is just a milling job anyone can do at

home with their own CNC Bridgeport


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm just glad the Anthems are adjustable enough to be able to deal with these various requirements with different displays!



Oh Ya Baby - Any Video Settings you want.


TWEAK Away.


I'm still working on some settings that will trick my Ruby

into something it can do versus something it can't do.


Kind of like having a WIFE







!


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Correct, either 11f or 11g is NOT good for the XA2 and HDMI audio.



Strange... I'm using 1.11f and my Toshiba HD-XA2 is working perfectly with the D2. I didn't had time to install 1.11g.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did as you both suggested and that worked. I should have thought of it as I did and always do read the manuals. As I get older my reading comprehension must be slipping.



Great!


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would recommend putting fans inside the cabine to draw the heat out, whatever you do, dont do nothing currently a friend and I are addressing the blue screen issue which I encountered last night after just getting my D1 upgraded to D2 status, when I called him and told him that while watching the ps3 and the D2 It kept going from the movie to a bluescreen background and then back to the movie again, he said he had the same problem when using the D2 with the sony ps3 and he solved it by putting using fans to remove the hot air from the D2, strange it only seems to happen when he used the ps3 but he said that it worked for him, I have a vornado variable speed fan in the house which my wife brought downstairs and after blowing air onto the D2 we had no more problems watching the movie for the rest of the night, we are now looking at several different cooling components from cool-components.com give them a look, they have some real cool (pun inteded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) stuff



You both need to call Nick and tell him. I just went thru the exact same situation with my new D2 and PS3 (92mm fan set on top blowing up to exhaust air from the right hand side/power supply fixed it). Nick told me it should need *no* external cooling even in a much warmer environment, and sent my dealer a new unit to change out for mine (I'm picking it up tomorrow). If Nick thinks it's just my unit Anthem may write it off to a "bad component". If they hear of 3 (or more) misbehaving the same way they'll look at design margins.


Now I'm worried that my new unit will act the same way. I'll post tomorrow evening with my results.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am preparing my existing cabinet for the D2 and A5 which should arrive early next week. It is currently a "closed cabinet system" except for the solid double doors that open in the front. Two shelf areas; top with dimensions of 22"W x 24"D x 16"H, and bottom with dimensions of 22"W x 24"D x 14"H. Current plan is to put the D2 in the top shelf area and the A5 in the bottom area. Questions:
> 
> 
> What heat issues do I face with that configuration, presuming I operate with the doors open, or operate with the doors closed IF I change from solid to perforated screen doors?
> 
> 
> What other ventilation options would be recommended? Thanks



Rick- In my theater I have the D2 in a 19" rack which I am just converting from open back/front passive cooling to active cooling (closed rear door, exhast fan drawing air from the top).


Your cabinet sounds more like what I have in my living room for the HD-DVR box and DVD player for the plasma. For that cabinet I installed an absolutely quiet 120mm fan run off an old 12vdc power brick. The fan is $12 + $5 s/h from newegg . I put the fan near the top of the rear wall, exhausting hot air out of the cabinet, drawing cool air in thru vents at the bottom front.


Just rereading your post, with the A5 in the cabinet you may generate a lot of heat and may need more cooling than the single quiet fan I used. Best is to measure the air temp just underneath the D2 and A5 as what's important is the temp of the air going into the components. You can ask Nick what that needs to be, but if he can't/won't give you a spec I would add ventilation to keep it from getting any hotter than a 10F rise above the room temp outside the cabinet, assuming your room temp isn't going to get above 75F or so even in the summer. That's pretty conservative as cabinets usually allow for a 10C rise above ambient, but prudent given the heat-related problems I've had with my D2 (and others posted just above).


You might also put the A5 on top as it will generate more heat and you don't want it heating the air flowing up into the D2.


----------



## dknight

I had posted about my XA2 issues previously, but since the subject appears to have come up again I'll go ahead and repeat them.


I have a D2 with 1.11f firmware and I've never really gotten my XA2 to work reliably via HDMI. I even returned my original unit for replacement so I've actually tried two brand new units. I've tried four different high quality Monoprice HDMI cables (that all work flawlessly with my PS3 and HR20-700 I might add) and I still have the same basic problem: It is a nightmare to get the D2 to sync up with the XA2. When I first turn on the unit or switch to the input I just get a blue screen. Sometimes if I start playing a movie on the XA2 and switch the input to another active 1080p device (like the PS3) and then back again, I'll get video (if I'm really lucky it'll be both video and audio). Sometimes I need to actually unplug the cable from the back of the XA2, plug it into the PS3 till it syncs up, and then plug it back into the XA2. That seems to be the most reliable way to get up and running, but still only works about a third of the time.


I've tried various input settings for the HDMI port on the D2 (HDMI repeater on/off) but nothing has seemed to matter. I upgraded the firmware of the XA2 to 1.3 but it didn't make a difference.


I just packed up my current projector (Optoma HD81 - good riddance!) and will be without a projector for the next several weeks until my RS1 arrives in the next wave. Hopefully by then Anthem will have some sort of fix for this, because it is EXTREMELY annoying.


-Dave


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a D2 with 1.11f firmware and I've never really gotten my XA2 to work reliably via HDMI.



It's fascinating... 1.11f + latest firmware upgrade for the XA2 = working perfectly for me. The only thing I see that could differ and cause problems is the projector at the end of the chain, or the HDMI cables.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's fascinating... 1.11f + latest firmware upgrade for the XA2 = working perfectly for me. The only thing I see that could differ and cause problems is the projector at the end of the chain, or the HDMI cables.


*I can agree with the PJ diagnosis.
*

A year ago - I was using a Runco PJ and I had loads of

HDMI Handshake problems. I was LUCKY the HDMI

interface on the Runco was a plug-in board. I took the

board out and had a HDMI Upgrade done to it.

*HDMI Handshake problems all GONE.
*

Last Fall - I upgraded to a SONY RUBY - no handshake

problems with the Sony. Even with the D2 in the

Middle of the HDMI string - the handshake is between

the Source and the Display [PJ]. Anthem does a great

job trying to FIX HDMI handshake problems - but at

the end of the day - it is most likely the OLD PJ not

conforming to modern HDMI handshake protocol.


----------



## JeffDL

nice seeing as the subject is now XA2's and D2's my latest observation. Running the D2 with 11g and the XA2 with 1.0. It is very hard to play SDDVD's. The player will pick up the sound but only display a blue screen. Hoping the 1.3 update will help with that. Took numours power cycles of both the D2 and AX2 to finally get the picture going. So what do you think update 1.3 to the AX2 will help this situtation.


----------



## Will Binegar

Has anyone tried Dynamic modes with HD DVD? I tried Backdraft and Batman Begins last night and pushing Dynamic on the remote or front cover did not bring up "Dynamic" on the on screen display, so I could not invoke either level of compression. The audio track for Backdraft is Dolby Digital Plus, not sure about BB.


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's fascinating... 1.11f + latest firmware upgrade for the XA2 = working perfectly for me. The only thing I see that could differ and cause problems is the projector at the end of the chain, or the HDMI cables.



Hopefully it is the projector at the end of the chain, since I'll shortly have the same projector as you do (assuming the RS1 and HD1 truly are identical).


I'll definitely report back when I get it.


-Dave


----------



## mintakaX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob.
> 
> 
> 1080p24 is not really a "standard" right now, so we sometimes have to make some small adjustments to make it work with different projectors.
> 
> 
> For exemple, the Sony Pearl needs a "custom" 1080p24 (output) to work with the D2, but not the JVC RS-1/HD-1. So Sony and JVC are not using the "same" 1080p24...
> 
> 
> What Bob is talking about is when inputting 1080p60 to the D2 and then outputting 1080p24 to a projector. The DVDO VP50 btw has the xact same "problem". Exact same thing. Almost all the high-end scalers are having the same problem. So if you're using a 1080p24 player, like the Pioneer BDP-HD1, there will not be any problems.
> 
> 
> Anthem are working on it. DVDO are still trying to solve the same problem with the VP50. And I think that the Crystalio II is still having issues also with 1080p24.



I'll be receiving my D2 at some point within the next 4 weeks and since I do have a Sony Pearl, I need to ask what exactly is meant by a "custom 1080p24 output" ?

Does this mean I will have to tell the D2 some specific numbers to get it to output 1080p24 to the Pearl ? Where should I start looking to find this info out ? Someone from the dealers is going to be delivering the D2 and helping me to set it up, but to be honest I have never worked with this dealer before (although they are very high end) and I dont know how much experience the guy will have. I'd like to be armed with all the pertinent info before he shows up. I'll be connecting a Comcast digital cable box (through component likely) and a Pioneer BDP-HD1.

Thanks,

Dan


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mintakaX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll be receiving my D2 at some point within the next 4 weeks and since I do have a Sony Pearl, I need to ask what exactly is meant by a "custom 1080p24 output" ?
> 
> Does this mean I will have to tell the D2 some specific numbers to get it to output 1080p24 to the Pearl ? Where should I start looking to find this info out ? Someone from the dealers is going to be delivering the D2 and helping me to set it up, but to be honest I have never worked with this dealer before (although they are very high end) and I dont know how much experience the guy will have. I'd like to be armed with all the pertinent info before he shows up. I'll be connecting a Comcast digital cable box (through component likely) and a Pioneer BDP-HD1.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dan



My recommendation is take the 1080p/24 out of the Pioneer

and have the D2 convert it to 1080p/60.


Someday Anthem will have the tweaking right for 1080p/24

with the Pearl. Then you can switch the D2 to that setting.


MY PREDICTION - you will not be able to see the difference

unless you are intentionally playing a judder demonstration

DVD.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hopefully it is the projector at the end of the chain, since I'll shortly have the same projector as you do (assuming the RS1 and HD1 truly are identical).



The RS-1 and HD-1 are truly identical. The RS-1 is a North America only model. In Europe, there is only the HD-1.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mintakaX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll be receiving my D2 at some point within the next 4 weeks and since I do have a Sony Pearl, I need to ask what exactly is meant by a "custom 1080p24 output" ?



Are you saying you didn't read the first post of that gigantic thread before posting your questions!







Shame on you!










Here's the links:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9256440


----------



## mintakaX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My recommendation is take the 1080p/24 out of the Pioneer
> 
> and have the D2 convert it to 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> Someday Anthem will have the tweaking right for 1080p/24
> 
> with the Pearl. Then you can switch the D2 to that setting.
> 
> 
> MY PREDICTION - you will not be able to see the difference
> 
> unless you are intentionally playing a judder demonstration
> 
> DVD.



So no 1080p24 from the D2 to the Pearl ??? That is quite disappointing. Seems like 1080p/24 was one of the reasons to go with the BDP-HD1/Pearl combination to begin with. Perhaps I'm missing something here ? In all honesty I'm not sure that I could see the difference, but the idea of not being able to display it really seems like a weakness here. Doesn't everybody watch HD movies with 1080p/24 if they can ? Maybe I'm missing something ?


----------



## lalarsons

Wanting to confirm why you will use component out of your Comcast Cable box instead of HDMI. To allow D2 to upconvert instead of the cable box, or another reason.? What is output resolution of component on the Comcast Cable Box? 480i? How to adjust? Thanks Rick


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You both need to call Nick and tell him. I just went thru the exact same situation with my new D2 and PS3 (92mm fan set on top blowing up to exhaust air from the right hand side/power supply fixed it). Nick told me it should need *no* external cooling even in a much warmer environment, and sent my dealer a new unit to change out for mine (I'm picking it up tomorrow). If Nick thinks it's just my unit Anthem may write it off to a "bad component". If they hear of 3 (or more) misbehaving the same way they'll look at design margins.
> 
> 
> Now I'm worried that my new unit will act the same way. I'll post tomorrow evening with my results.



Just to clarify, I am not yet having any issues. I am preparing my cabinet to install a D2 and A5 and making use of my (agonizing?) wait time until "the day" is here.. Will advise any issues. Thanks, Rick


----------



## mintakaX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The RS-1 and HD-1 are truly identical. The RS-1 is a North America only model. In Europe, there is only the HD-1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you saying you didn't read the first post of that gigantic thread before posting your questions!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shame on you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the links:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9256440



Thanks Levesque-- Actually I did read it, somehow I just forgot about about it. Catching up on all of the info in this thread, the Pearl thread and the BDP-HD1 thread, plus trying to learn about the technology, has thrown my brain into overload I'm afraid.

Jumping into threads with thousands of posts is a daunting proposition !


----------



## mintakaX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wanting to confirm why you will use component out of your Comcast Cable box instead of HDMI. To allow D2 to upconvert instead of the cable box, or another reason.? What is output resolution of component on the Comcast Cable Box? 480i? How to adjust? Thanks Rick



My hdmi connection is broken on the comcast box and I dont want to exchange it until I've rewatched all the Rome episodes that are on the DVR







.


----------



## lalarsons

Good idea on air draw from front to exhaust out the back top (in back of the display.) Thanks for the ideas!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mintakaX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So no 1080p24 from the D2 to the Pearl ??? That is quite disappointing. Seems like 1080p/24 was one of the reasons to go with the BDP-HD1/Pearl combination to begin with. Perhaps I'm missing something here ? In all honesty I'm not sure that I could see the difference, but the idea of not being able to display it really seems like a weakness here. Doesn't everybody watch HD movies with 1080p/24 if they can ? Maybe I'm missing something ?



STILL - WAIT until you get your setup running.


You are still outputting 1080p/24 from the BDP-HD1

That means the quality is untouched by any processing.


The D2 takes good stuff and turns it into more good

stuff at 1080p/60.


You can use the settings Levesque pointed you to

TRY THEM 1080p/24 to 1080p/24 and then

Try the 1080p/24 to 1080p/60.


I'll still bet you will not see the difference.

LET YOUR OWN EYES determine what is best.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mintakaX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Levesque-- Actually I did read it, somehow I just forgot about about it. Catching up on all of the info in this thread, the Pearl thread and the BDP-HD1 thread, plus trying to learn about the technology, has thrown my brain into overload I'm afraid.
> 
> Jumping into threads with thousands of posts is a daunting proposition !



Tell me about it!


I have been reading the D2's manual, and holy cow







a bit overwhelming! But man, features galore! Was just reading about bass management, which seems to be quite impressive.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tell me about it!
> 
> 
> I have been reading the D2's manual, and holy cow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a bit overwhelming! But man, features galore! Was just reading about bass management, which seems to be quite impressive.



Come on Rob - us D2 Owners are NOT doing this







for nothing!


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good idea on air draw from front to exhaust out the back top (in back of the display.) Thanks for the ideas!



Since I raised the issue in the first place let me add one additional concern to the 'Heat' discussion.


I have a P5 and a P2 side by side in the bottom rack underneath my D2 which sits above the P5. I did NOT raise the caution because of any substantiated concerns with the d2 and its ability to run hot. I have NOT had any problems and have yet to feel any heat from the P5 and P2. They run very very cool to the touch and I generally run damn close to reference level whenever my wife is locked away in another part of the house. The D2 does get hot but it has never been problematic as the design anticipates that. Its just prudent I believe to NOT aggravate the condition with a too tight fit!


I am convinced that the heat creates a problem with the HDMI cable fit in either the source or the D2 itself. The symptoms described are on target with an HDMI cable problem and are consistent to the best of my knowledge and painstaking following every part of this thread from the beginning with the D2 and PS3 pairing.


The problem I am concerned about is that for the majority of visitors to this thread who do NOT read the whole conversation will assume, incorrectly, that the D2 has a heat problem. Let me repeat it is NOT substantiated as a known documented problem. HDMI cable fits have been noted and repeatedly identified as the culprit for a number of problems that have been misdiagnosed! I have read every paragraph of this 'tome' to AV technology and heat is NOT a problem. All I wanted to do was to suggest to a new welcome member to make sure his air circulation is adequate............


I'm sorry I brought it up..........


Peter


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tell me about it!
> 
> 
> I have been reading the D2's manual, and holy cow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a bit overwhelming! But man, features galore! Was just reading about bass management, which seems to be quite impressive.



The extent of flexibility is amazing. Have fun!


----------



## mintakaX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> STILL - WAIT until you get your setup running.
> 
> 
> You are still outputting 1080p/24 from the BDP-HD1
> 
> That means the quality is untouched by any processing.
> 
> 
> The D2 takes good stuff and turns it into more good
> 
> stuff at 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> You can use the settings Levesque pointed you to
> 
> TRY THEM 1080p/24 to 1080p/24 and then
> 
> Try the 1080p/24 to 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> I'll still bet you will not see the difference.
> 
> LET YOUR OWN EYES determine what is best.



LET YOUR OWN EYES determine what is best ! --- Cant you just tell me whats best







... I'll trust you !


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mintakaX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LET YOUR OWN EYES determine what is best ! --- Cant you just tell me whats best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I'll trust you !




My God! do NOT open the gate on that one...........


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mintakaX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LET YOUR OWN EYES determine what is best ! --- Cant you just tell me whats best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I'll trust you !



Really - it is up to you.


In my theater - with the Ruby - It is an easy decision.


1080p/60.


In your theater - your eyes may enjoy one more than

the other. That is the beauty of the D2 - you can play

and tweak.


----------



## mintakaX

Its seems from the post that Levesque pointed me to, ie the D2 settings that allow 1080p/24 to be output to the Pearl, that those settings were not entirely satisfactory ?


So I take it that there is the possibility, at least in theory, that on 1080p/24 material, the PQ from the BDP-HD1->D2-> Pearl will not be as "good" as BDP-HD1->Pearl ? I'm not trying to muckrake here, I'm just trying to get an idea of whats ahead for me. Thats one of the problems with having to wait so long for something...you just have a lot of time to think and wonder if you really made the correct decision. I have not heard one single "overall" complaint about the D2, all of the buyers seem more than happy with their decisions and I'm expecting to have the same experience.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Come on Rob - us D2 Owners are NOT doing this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for nothing!













It's just nice that the more I read and research, the _more_ impressed I become with the D2 and it's capabilities! And having Nick respond to my email within 15 minutes didn't exactly hurt!


----------



## AnthemAVM

For those that use the D2 for multi-room, how do you carry the video signal to the TV in another room?


Michael


----------



## PaulT_BC

FYI I see now on Anthem site (AVM30/40/50) some info from Anthem ref HDMI 1.1 and 1.3 (HDMI FAQS). Stuff you guys have been saying for some time (and especially in the HDMI Thread).


Direct link to pdf:
http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...stions_PDS.pdf 


Also there is a small link on the D2 page to the same pdf.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mintakaX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Its seems from the post that Levesque pointed me to, ie the D2 settings that allow 1080p/24 to be output to the Pearl, that those settings were not entirely satisfactory ?



You should ask *Placidman* directly. I think he's using the Pearl with the AVM50 and those custom 1080p24 settings with great results. You should send him a PM directly in case he's not following that thread that is growing so fast and becoming almost impossible to follow!










If you're reading Placidman, could you post your answer to that question here?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FYI I see now on Anthem site (AVM30/40/50) some info from Anthem ref HDMI 1.1 and 1.3 (HDMI FAQS). Stuff you guys have been saying for some time (and especially in the HDMI Thread).
> 
> 
> Direct link to pdf:
> http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...stions_PDS.pdf
> 
> 
> Also there is a small link on the D2 page to the same pdf.










It's SOOOO refreshing to finally see a manufactuer being honest about all this hype and mess about HDMI 1.3. All the other manufacturers are playing dead, and are only waiting to push those upcoming HDMI 1.3 products down the throats of all those confused consumers out there... Ka-ching!


Not Anthem...


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FYI I see now on Anthem site (AVM30/40/50) some info from Anthem ref HDMI 1.1 and 1.3 (HDMI FAQS). Stuff you guys have been saying for some time (and especially in the HDMI Thread).
> 
> 
> Direct link to pdf:
> http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...stions_PDS.pdf
> 
> 
> Also there is a small link on the D2 page to the same pdf.



I read that same link earlier today when I was reading part of the manual. That is a great explanation that Nick put together! My question is whether Nick got that information from Levesque and Bob, or whether Levesque and Bob got their info from Nick?!?!?


----------



## JeffDL

That was a good read. I love the picture of the D2 at the end.


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since I raised the issue in the first place let me add one additional concern to the 'Heat' discussion.
> 
> 
> I have a P5 and a P2 side by side in the bottom rack underneath my D2 which sits above the P5. I did NOT raise the caution because of any substantiated concerns with the d2 and its ability to run hot. I have NOT had any problems and have yet to feel any heat from the P5 and P2. They run very very cool to the touch and I generally run damn close to reference level whenever my wife is locked away in another part of the house. The D2 does get hot but it has never been problematic as the design anticipates that. Its just prudent I believe to NOT aggravate the condition with a too tight fit!
> 
> 
> I am convinced that the heat creates a problem with the HDMI cable fit in either the source or the D2 itself. The symptoms described are on target with an HDMI cable problem and are consistent to the best of my knowledge and painstaking following every part of this thread from the beginning with the D2 and PS3 pairing.
> 
> 
> The problem I am concerned about is that for the majority of visitors to this thread who do NOT read the whole conversation will assume, incorrectly, that the D2 has a heat problem. Let me repeat it is NOT substantiated as a known documented problem. HDMI cable fits have been noted and repeatedly identified as the culprit for a number of problems that have been misdiagnosed! I have read every paragraph of this 'tome' to AV technology and heat is NOT a problem. All I wanted to do was to suggest to a new welcome member to make sure his air circulation is adequate............
> 
> 
> I'm sorry I brought it up..........
> 
> 
> Peter



Peter, Thanks for the detail. A long history has taught me that electronics are designed to operate in a temp band and it is better to maintain those boundaries than to carelessly exceed them. I tend to over-engineer solutions to problems and am happy there are others on this thread willing to feed their BKM's forward to the rest of us.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree D2 all the way. I had an AVM 50 and 40 for a little while, while the 50 was being repaired (2 bad HDMI outs) was given a 40 to keep me up and running. The 50 came back with some other issues so I just replaced it with the D2. The sound difference is amazing to say the least. I couldn't believe the improvement was almost night and day. So for $750 more I would go D2 all the way.




Are you saying that the AVM50 sucks compared to the D2? I would believe that the AVM50 is one of the best bargain in the pre/pro market and to claim that the difference is night and day is an insult to those who bought the AVM50.


With the scenario presented I would also opt for the D2, but I would not say that the D2 is WAY WAY BETTER than the AVM50.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's just nice that the more I read and research, the _more_ impressed I become with the D2 and it's capabilities! And having Nick respond to my email within 15 minutes didn't exactly hurt!



It is even better by Phone - he answers it!


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Peter, Thanks for the detail. A long history has taught me that electronics are designed to operate in a temp band and it is better to maintain those boundaries than to carelessly exceed them. I tend to over-engineer solutions to problems and am happy there are others on this thread willing to feed their BKM's forward to the rest of us.



Thank you sir and a sincere welcome to a great family of support. You are in for a treat! We have yet to find any subject related to the D2 AVM50 that is below our ability to dissect and over analyze so you are in excellent company!


Peter


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you saying that the AVM50 sucks compared to the D2? I would believe that the AVM50 is one of the best bargain in the pre/pro market and to claim that the difference is night and day is an insult to those who bought the AVM50.
> 
> 
> With the scenario presented I would also opt for the D2, but I would not say that the D2 is WAY WAY BETTER than the AVM50.



Respectfully, the D2 and AVM50 were and are currently a full generation ahead of the field of comparable (if any) competitors. Kidding aside, there is nothing the AVM 50 lacks that prevents it from holding its own in this room!


We ALL share familiar DNA and the differences (so far) probably relate more to egos and peripherals than hard differences in our choice of AV Processors!


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My gosh there's a lot of glee on here tonight. More hopping folks! More grinning! We need to maintain a proper balance!

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Strange... I'm using 1.11f and my Toshiba HD-XA2 is working perfectly with the D2. I didn't had time to install 1.11g.



I had stability issues with f and switching sources to/from the XA2 with 11f, the real culprit is 11g, where HDMI audio is gone (no funky fall backs to optical when testing). If you do go to 11g interested if you get HDMI audio, you would be the 1st... but you lead a charmed life as an earliest adopter


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had posted about my XA2 issues previously, but since the subject appears to have come up again I'll go ahead and repeat them.
> 
> 
> I have a D2 with 1.11f firmware and I've never really gotten my XA2 to work reliably via HDMI.
> 
> -Dave




Dave,

I have had the same reliability issues with 11f, and we probably have later builds than LEVESQUE. Stability actually increases with 11g, but then you lose EDIT: HDMI audio.


Unless you need a feature in f, suggest downgrading to 11e.

Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Typical customer support:


* Return the unused portion of our product and we'll return the unspent portion of your money.


* You are of course under no obligation to keep our product. You may at any time chuck it into the nearest pit.


* At the Very Big Corporation we firmly believe that the customer is always right. You sir, on the other hand, are wrong. So we can't have you as a customer! We have standards to maintain!

--Bob (feeling sillier than usual tonight) P.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> nice seeing as the subject is now XA2's and D2's my latest observation. Running the D2 with 11g and the XA2 with 1.0. It is very hard to play SDDVD's. The player will pick up the sound but only display a blue screen. Hoping the 1.3 update will help with that. Took numours power cycles of both the D2 and AX2 to finally get the picture going. So what do you think update 1.3 to the AX2 will help this situtation.



Actually the 1.3 upgrade to the XA2 slightly degrades SD playpack. Not substantively but it looses the edge I thought it had over the BDP for SD playback.


The problem is squarely 11g, so we have 4 out of 4, but do you get any HDMI audio with 1.0 or 1.3 on the XA2?


----------



## rudolpht

Dave, regarding the suggestion on cables being the 11f issue with XA2. ...



I have the best (WmP recommended) cables and my XA2 works perfectly (old and new firmware) with 11e. It worked erratically with 11f. It was more stable but no HDMI audio in 11g. I would try to backgrade to 11e before purchasing a bunch of cables, this usually being a prime suspect.


Bottom line: Try 11e before trying to mess with HDMI connectors. Ultimately it could be both the firmware and the cables, but it would be good to eliminate one variable, easily through a software download.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Will Binegar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried Dynamic modes with HD DVD? I tried Backdraft and Batman Begins last night and pushing Dynamic on the remote or front cover did not bring up "Dynamic" on the on screen display, so I could not invoke either level of compression. The audio track for Backdraft is Dolby Digital Plus, not sure about BB.



The two Dynamics settings just cut incoming LFE (for times when you don't want to wake the neigbors) so I'd be very surprised if there was some restriction on using them during high bandwidth HDMI PCM input as from an HD-DVD player.


One possibility is that you hit Zone 2 or Zone3 accidentally on the remote so that the remote was not controlling the Main path -- and thus no audio processing.


If you have a chance to try it again, see if the LFE control works. Press Setup/Sub/LFE twice on the remote and you should see a control come up that lets you cut LFE in steps up to -10dB. This is really no different that what Dynamics does.


------------------------------------


I know you can Bypass the tone controls in the Anthem, but as far as I can recall there's no setting which disables Dynamics except of course if you are using the multi-channel analog inputs in Analog-Direct mode.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My gosh there's a lot of glee on here tonight. More hopping folks! More grinning! We need to maintain a proper balance!
> 
> --Bob



Here you go Bob:


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mintakaX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So no 1080p24 from the D2 to the Pearl ??? That is quite disappointing. Seems like 1080p/24 was one of the reasons to go with the BDP-HD1/Pearl combination to begin with. Perhaps I'm missing something here ? In all honesty I'm not sure that I could see the difference, but the idea of not being able to display it really seems like a weakness here. Doesn't everybody watch HD movies with 1080p/24 if they can ? Maybe I'm missing something ?



Please understand that you DON'T WANT to use /24Hz to the Pearl (or any other display) if you are watching video-based content such as live TV shows.


Although film based content looks pretty good when revved up to video rate for display, video based content looks downright bad when cut down to film rate.


This is what the Frame Lock stuff is all about in the Anthem. If your display can produce image refresh rates at *BOTH* a multiple of /24H and /30Hz then you want to divy up the video you send it into film rate and video rate content.


See the post linked in the first thread on Frame Lock for more info.


--------------------------------------------


Now that aside, the Pearl is apparently unusual in that it is more sensitive to the specific video timings it gets when fed /24Hz video. This is no different than some 768p displays that need specialized timings when fed "native resolution" video. There is a link in the first post in this thread which gives a custom video resolution set that appears to work just fine with the Pearl when you want to feed it /24Hz.


Using that Custom resolution, 1080p/24Hz input to 1080p/24Hz output to the Pearl should work just fine. As from your blu-ray player.


-----------------------------------------------


Independent of all that, the Anthem has a problem when converting 1080i/60Hz film base content to 1080p/24Hz. Anthem is working on this one.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tell me about it!
> 
> 
> I have been reading the D2's manual, and holy cow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a bit overwhelming! But man, features galore! Was just reading about bass management, which seems to be quite impressive.



Ah yes, Features Galore -- one of my favorite characters in the James Bond movies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those that use the D2 for multi-room, how do you carry the video signal to the TV in another room?
> 
> 
> Michael



Not sure what you are asking here. HDMI is only available on the Main path output. Typically people will use Component for the Zone 2 output (separately selectable input device), or just "pass through" unprocessed video from the Main path source device -- as with S-video input scaled up to HDMI for Main path output and passed through to S-video output for some other TV.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> nice seeing as the subject is now XA2's and D2's my latest observation. Running the D2 with 11g and the XA2 with 1.0. It is very hard to play SDDVD's. The player will pick up the sound but only display a blue screen. Hoping the 1.3 update will help with that. Took numours power cycles of both the D2 and AX2 to finally get the picture going. So what do you think update 1.3 to the AX2 will help this situtation.



I think you should discuss your problem with Anthem tech support and let them work through the possible solutions with you.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ah yes, Features Galore -- one of my favorite characters in the James Bond movies.
> 
> --Bob



Classic!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you saying that the AVM50 sucks compared to the D2? I would believe that the AVM50 is one of the best bargain in the pre/pro market and to claim that the difference is night and day is an insult to those who bought the AVM50.
> 
> 
> With the scenario presented I would also opt for the D2, but I would not say that the D2 is WAY WAY BETTER than the AVM50.



I would remind people that at least from a video perspective the AVM-50 is identical to the D2.


On the audio side, the D2 is an "exotic" solution. It is pushing what can be done with audio. That means comparisons are tough to do due to the impact of everything ELSE that affects what you hear in your audio system.


The AVM-50 is no slouch by any means. But the D2 is a very special product.

--Bob


----------



## Will Binegar

Thanks for the reply Bob. I did make sure to hit Main on the remote, and when that didn't work, I tried the front panel of the D2. Dynamics was coming up the night before when being fed from the HD Tivo. At the time I didn't realize that you first hit Dynamics and then use the arrow keys to toggle between the three settings; no wonder it didn't seem to do anything.










Generally this is a feature most would prefer not to use, but when the kids have to sleep, they've got to sleep. Given that it was designed into the original Dolby Digital spec; it would be a surprise if it doesn't work for Dolby Digital Plus.


Boy, I sure hope that you're mistaken about how Anthem implemented the feature. Just lowering the volume on LFE won't cut it. While it's true that LFE travels through the house more effectively than higher frequencies, there's lots of other loud sounds outside the LFE range to keep the kids up: breaking glass for example. Ideally, Dynamics would shorten the volume range for all frequencies: soft sounds get louder and loud sounds get quieter relative to the actual recorded level. Meridian's implementation works pretty well, with Low, Medium, Mix, and Max options.


I'll do some more playing (it becomes work when you don't figure it out), and report back. If someone else has solved the mystery, let me in on the secret. I'm using a Toshiba HD-XA2 fed via HDMI. (Maybe it's a bitstream versus PCM setting on the player...)


----------



## RIppolito

I've noticed that when I switch into 480i from 1080i or 720p, the output looks too wide on my display. I'm using an AVM 50, version 1.11g firmware to beat the 1080i bug. To view 4:3, and 'preserve' the correct aspect ratio, I went into the video setup menu, skipped over to the 'scale out' menu, and changed the display from 'anamorphic' to '4:3'. When I power up with 480i coming in (that is, without the switch from a HD resolution), the aspect ratio is correct.


Is anyone else seeing this problem? Anybody got a workaround?


Thanks in advance,


Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've noticed that when I switch into 480i from 1080i or 720p, the output looks too wide on my display. I'm using an AVM 50, version 1.11g firmware to beat the 1080i bug. To view 4:3, and 'preserve' the correct aspect ratio, I went into the video setup menu, skipped over to the 'scale out' menu, and changed the display from 'anamorphic' to '4:3'. When I power up with 480i coming in (that is, without the switch from a HD resolution), the aspect ratio is correct.
> 
> 
> Is anyone else seeing this problem? Anybody got a workaround?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Ron



You are confusing two different things. The Crop Input setting (which is where the "4:3" is) allows you to identify the shape of the real content in the input signal. Some sources will flag the incoming content as either 16:9 or 4:3 allowing an Auto selection here.


The Scale Out setting (which is where "Anamorphic" is) lets you specify what the Anthem does to the cropped input to account for any difference between its shape and the shape of the display.


Typically you will want to leave Crop Input in the HDMI Auto setting (even if you are using Component video input).


Typically you will want to leave the Scale Output setting in the Letter/Pillar Box setting if the Auto Crop Input setting is working from a give source device. Otherwise use Anamorphic for incoming 16:9 content and Letter/Pillar Box for incoming 4:3 content. Please note that the V1.10 and V1.11 software has a bug where the Scale Output setting for the input selected at power up may be changed unexpectedly. I don't know if this has been fixed for V1.11g.


See the Fun with Cropping and Scaling links in the first post in this thread for more info.

--Bob


----------



## RIppolito

Bob,


Sorry for the mistake, but I mistakenly said I switched it to 4:3 in the 'scale output' menu. I meant to say that I switched it to 'letter / pillarbox'.


Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ron,

OK, there are several possibilities here. It would be helpful to know what source device you are using when you have the problem and whether it is connected via Component or HDMI. [Presumably it can't be connected via S-video for example since you are switching from HD to SD resolutions.]


Also, when you see the problem, go in to the Video Source Adjust / Scale Out menu and verify that the Anamorphic or Letter/Pillar Box setting you were expecting hasn't changed unexpectedly (that bug I referred to).


Also, please confirm that the Video Source Adjust / Crop Input setting is still in its default (HDMI AUTO) setting.


Also, please confirm that you have disabled any overlayed inputs (TV2, vs. TV1 for example) that you are not using so that you can't have accidentally selected one of them by mistake. [Each overlayed input has its own independent Video Source Adjust settings that could be confusing things here.] You disable the ones you aren't using in the first entry of the Setup / Source Setup menu for each of them.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think you should discuss your problem with Anthem tech support and let them work through the possible solutions with you.
> 
> --Bob



On the 11f anomalies please do report them to Nick so he knows I'm not the only one in the forest when the tree is falling. More importantly to me is checking XA2 HDMI audio in 11g, I just don't want a 11h or worse the next production rev to come out with this XA2 silent movie feature


----------



## 3no

The latest on my D2 heat problem:


Picked up my replacement D2 this afternoon, installed 1.11g firmware, restored settings and video settings, hooked up inputs and tried it out. Same problem as the previous unit -- after an hour or so of warmup, PS3 input select results in blue screen followed by HDMI handshake resynch every 10-30 sec. This continues to occur with no change to input selection or input source material - just let the BD movie play or even just displaying the PS3 main menu screen.


Only happens with PS3 input. Tried PS3 at 1080i, same problem. Does not occur with other HDMI inputs: Moto 3412 DVR, HD-A1, HTPC/6600GT. Tried different brand of HDMI cables (drhankz's recommended brand).


Measured temps:

- Inlet air (measured 1" below PS vent slots on bottom of unit): 90F (warm in my theater, plus about 10F rise in the passively cooled cabinet)

- Outlet air (measured 1" above PS vent slots on top of unit): 104F


As with the previous unit I set a 92mm fan on top of the unit, pulling air from the unit. After 10 min or so the problem goes away and the video is rock solid. I can place the fan over the PS vents or over the center vents and achieve the same cure.


I am updating Nick on this as well, and suggesting that with 4 units now displaying the same problem (my 2 units, funlvr1965, his friend) Anthem try to duplicate the problem.


----------



## FilmMixer

^^^^ I've emailed him about the XA2 problems also... when you next update him, remind him that both of these devices are both HDMI 1.3


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^^ I've emailed him about the XA2 problems also... when you next update him, remind him that both of these devices are both HDMI 1.3



Thanks!!!!


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The latest on my D2 heat problem:
> 
> 
> Picked up my replacement D2 this afternoon, installed 1.11g firmware, restored settings and video settings, hooked up inputs and tried it out. Same problem as the previous unit -- after an hour or so of warmup, PS3 input select results in blue screen followed by HDMI handshake resynch every 10-30 sec. This continues to occur with no change to input selection or input source material - just let the BD movie play or even just displaying the PS3 main menu screen.
> 
> 
> Only happens with PS3 input. Tried PS3 at 1080i, same problem. Does not occur with other HDMI inputs: Moto 3412 DVR, HD-A1, HTPC/6600GT. Tried different brand of HDMI cables (drhankz's recommended brand).
> 
> 
> Measured temps:
> 
> - Inlet air (measured 1" below PS vent slots on bottom of unit): 90F (warm in my theater, plus about 10F rise in the passively cooled cabinet)
> 
> - Outlet air (measured 1" above PS vent slots on top of unit): 104F
> 
> 
> As with the previous unit I set a 92mm fan on top of the unit, pulling air from the unit. After 10 min or so the problem goes away and the video is rock solid. I can place the fan over the PS vents or over the center vents and achieve the same cure.
> 
> 
> I am updating Nick on this as well, and suggesting that with 4 units now displaying the same problem (my 2 units, funlvr1965, his friend) Anthem try to duplicate the problem.



Have you tried removing the PS3 from the rack? It runs very warm too. It could be the PS3. Sorry if I miss you doing this previously.


larry


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Have you tried removing the PS3 from the rack? It runs very warm too. It could be the PS3. Sorry if I miss you doing this previously.
> 
> 
> larry



Good suggestion, but the PS3 is internally fan cooled so it is already pulling outside-the-rack air into itself for cooling


It's clear that the D2 is temperature sensitive if a 92mm fan on low setting, placed directly on the unit's top vent slots, makes it solid as a rock. I like FilmMixer's observation that both the PS3 and the XA2 are HDMI 1.3. Perhaps the vp timing in the D2 is such that it is marginal with HDMI 1.3 -- just barely hangs together with the PS3 when cool, but falls apart as its timing changes slightly with temperature. And is marginal even when cool with the XA2. Hmmm...




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^^ I've emailed him about the XA2 problems also... when you next update him, remind him that both of these devices are both HDMI 1.3



FilmMixer- Have you tried cooling the D2? Take a PC case fan, any size, wire it to an old 12VDC power brick (or maybe even the D2's 12V for IR remotes available on the little green pluggable terminal) and set it on top of the center vents, blowing upwards to pull hot air from the unit. See if that makes a difference with the XA2.


----------



## LEVESQUE

For those interested to do advanced gamma editing with the D2, here's an interesting post from Bill on that subject on CalMAN forum:

http://www.datapopuli.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=493


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those interested to do advanced gamma editing with the D2, here's an interesting post from Bill on that subject on CalMAN forum:
> 
> http://www.datapopuli.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=493



Your link does not work unless you register with CalMan.


Maybe just copy and paste into AVS would be better.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Your link does not work unless you register with CalMan.
> 
> 
> Maybe just copy and paste into AVS would be better.



Oups...










Here's a copy and paste then:

*Question:*


"I just received 2 JVC HD-1 (yes, 2... ) and I'm starting playing with it. I want to play with the custom gamma curves in the Anthem D2 since the JVCs don't have anything to do it...


There are 2 options: global output or 3 separate curves (R,G,B).


Here's what Nick at Anthem told me: "slope affects gain and position affects offset".


Here's what Bob Sorel said about the JVC + Crystalio II (same curves that we have in the D2 since they both use the same gennum chip and software...):


"The gamma setting I used is in the output section also. Start off by adjusting the regular gamma control (not the RGB gammas) to choose "low IRE" and then adjust it to something around +3 to +5. I personally liked +3 the best, but I haven't viewed enough material as yet to decide for sure. Oh yeah, and I started with "gamma C" from the RS-1's menu."


So could you explain a little bit what am I suppose to do and measure here? How should I use the gamma sdjustment and how should measure the results to see if everything is working ok? "

*Answer from Bill (CalMAN):*


"Let's start with the last part since that is the easiest: how to measure it. When you are doing gamma editing of any sort, you want to pay very close attention to the Point Gamma chart at the bottom of page four (if you are printing) or at the bottom right hand part of the chart area.


Ideally you would see a consistent measurement value (flat line) at some level between 2.0 (if you have a lot of ambient light) to about 2.6 if you have a gravity singularity in your Home Theater (aka a black hole). What you do not want to see is a gamma that has values much below 2 for more than one or two data points, and you really do not want to see a gamma above 2.8 at low stimulus levels.


By the way, unless ColorFacts really did overhaul their gamma calculation, this is an area either exclusive to us or simply pioneered by us.


From what you describe, the slope sounds like it acts like a contrast control. With 8-bit video, what will happen is that video levels will be expanded as the control is increased, and compressed when they are decreased. As a concrete example, the white reference level, RGB(235, 235, 235), will increase to 236, then 237, then 238, etc. as the slope control is increased. It will decrease as the slope control is decreased: 234, 233, 232, 231, ...


Given that any range compression can lead to banding artifacts, I caution anyone to scrutinize closely what happens with the image as you introduce more compression (aka decrease the control below neutral). Good material to look for banding artifacts are continuous grayscale ramps, and any cinematography of slightly textured background, especially underwater photography, large expanses of sky or where snow constitutes a significant amount of the screen image (e.g., Warren Miller ski documentaries).


The Position control sounds like it would work like a brightness control, so an increase in the control would move the black point from digital RGB(16, 16, 16) to something higher: 17, 18, 19, ... This creates dynamic range compression similar to what happens when you lower the slope (contrast) control. Not only does the reference value change, but all of the intermediate values from the input signal need to be recalculated and remapped into the new output range.


What will all of this do? Simply put, exanding the dynamic range between black and white should increase the gamma value (barring the introduction of clipping). Decreasing or compressing the dynamic range will decrease the gamma value. This should show up pretty readily in the Actual Gamma value and the Point Gamma chart.


In so long as you do not see any banding artifacts (or other compression artifacts) in your favored source material, then this is a powerful tool. From my personal bias, I always advise caution when using these tools while we are stuck with 8-bit source material AND an 8-bit signalling scheme. Ideally, if we were to use these outboard processors in this fashion, we would want a significantly wider transmission (signaling) bus than we have source bits in order to reduce the compression artifacts as much as possible (i.e., we can take smaller steps). While I haven't worked out the math, I would expect that a 10-bit signal would be a minimum, which is only feasible outside of HDMI 1.3 using digital component video.


Bill


PS: Yes, I ignored the individual primary controls. We do not yet have calculations for these included in the app. Given that we are trying to finish v3, these calculations are likely to first appear in v3.1"


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oups...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a copy and paste then:



Thank You Mr. Levesque


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Folks who are playing with this gamma stuff may also want to experiment with switching the Anthem video output Data Format to YCbCr 4:2:2. If your display supports that -- and depending upon the particular capabilities of your display -- this may increase transmission bit depth between the Anthem and the display to 12 bits each for Luminance (the "Y" signal) and each of the Color Difference data channels (the "Cb" and "Cr" signals) at the expense of losing half the horizontal color resolution, which the eye can't see anyway.


See the links on Data Format in the Terminology and Technology collection of links in the first post of this thread for more background.


But the bottom line in what is posted from CalMan is that Gamma Correction, just like moving the Color Primaries, is something that ideally should be done INSIDE a display -- a display that implements 10 bit or higher internal video processing.

--Bob


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The latest on my D2 heat problem:
> 
> 
> Picked up my replacement D2 this afternoon, installed 1.11g firmware, restored settings and video settings, hooked up inputs and tried it out. Same problem as the previous unit -- after an hour or so of warmup, PS3 input select results in blue screen followed by HDMI handshake resynch every 10-30 sec. This continues to occur with no change to input selection or input source material - just let the BD movie play or even just displaying the PS3 main menu screen.
> 
> 
> Only happens with PS3 input. Tried PS3 at 1080i, same problem. Does not occur with other HDMI inputs: Moto 3412 DVR, HD-A1, HTPC/6600GT. Tried different brand of HDMI cables (drhankz's recommended brand).
> 
> 
> Measured temps:
> 
> - Inlet air (measured 1" below PS vent slots on bottom of unit): 90F (warm in my theater, plus about 10F rise in the passively cooled cabinet)
> 
> - Outlet air (measured 1" above PS vent slots on top of unit): 104F
> 
> 
> As with the previous unit I set a 92mm fan on top of the unit, pulling air from the unit. After 10 min or so the problem goes away and the video is rock solid. I can place the fan over the PS vents or over the center vents and achieve the same cure.
> 
> 
> I am updating Nick on this as well, and suggesting that with 4 units now displaying the same problem (my 2 units, funlvr1965, his friend) Anthem try to duplicate the problem.




I spoke with Frank yesterday morning and told him that a friend of mine and I were about to purchase a fan solution for our heat issues /bluescreen/ps3 when I read your thread and how you were told by Nick that the D2 should need no additional cooling, Frank usually doesnt read the forums and said he had no knowledge of your issue or the fact that Nick had sent out a unit because of this, my friend Jeremy and I were on a three way call with Frank explaining how adding external fan cooling solved our bluescreen problems while using the ps3, Frank indicated he had no knowledge of any of this but would get back to us. A few hours later I received a call from my dealer and I happened to be in the neighborhood so I stopped by, he said that he received a call from Nick saying that he never said that the unit should need no additional cooling even in warmer climates and that he did not send you another unit because of that, my dealer explained to me that even if this unit is in an open rack that nonmovement of air could be a factor, Jeremy called and told me that he had received a call from Nick explaining that the problem could reside in his environment and that could be causing the overheating issue. First of all I dont think you(3no) have any reason to come on the forum and state inaccurate facts about having a bluescreen issue and getting a replacement, it just doesnt add up, what are you supposed to gain by that?, at this point I do believe that youre telling the truth and that you have indeed received another unit and its doing the same thing. During the conversation with my dealer yesterday it came out that Nick had indeed replaced a unit for someone who had bluescreen issues and that heat buildup in the environment was ruled out because the person had it on an open shelf with the sides exposed, im assuming that person was not you, if im mistaken then please set me straight but from what I understand your D2 is in a cabinet. Anthem would like both Jeremy and I to do some more testing in our environments such as move the D2 in an open area such as on a table which is fine except as my wife indicated most people dont keep receivers on tray tables, Jeremy I believe is taking a different approach to his testing he is measuring the heat inside his cabinet with a temp guage with an external probe so he can take two readings one im assuming for ambient air and the other for actual air inside the cabinet and at the same time he will use the PS3 and record what happens which leads me to my other question why is this only happening with the PS3 I have no problems with my HD player and bluescreens, I converted an old closet in our basement into an audio rack, the back is open on 3 sides and the top of the rack is taken off and the rear wall is at least two feet back underneath stairs leading down to the theater, my thing is this I understand that audio and video equipment need to be cooled and we were all set to do that before discovering your post we would like Anthem to actively look into this issue and let us know if its really an issue that needs to be addressed or tell us thats just the way the unit operates which doesnt make sense because it only does this with the ps3, at some point in all of this I felt that Anthem was being a little impractical especially suggesting either directly or through my dealer that I have the unit in an open area, not everyone can do that, why not tell us what the operating temp range of the Anthem is and let us bring the unit to that temperature in whatever waywe see fit either by having it in an open area or active cooling if we are going to use it in an equipment cabinet, I think they should also expand on the comment that I do believe they made to you indicating that the unit should need "no" additional cooling even in a warmer environment,I would hope Nick would come on and finally put this to bed and explain the optimal operating environment for this unit and if there is indeed an issue with heat related blue screens as it relates to the ps3 or any other devices, as of now I have not yet done any of the testing that they wanted so honestly I have to wait to see what happens, Jeremy from what I know has started some testing but I have not yet found out what those results are as of yet. In the end I want to say that I still feel that this is a great product for what it accomplishes my D1 was upgraded to D2 status and its great I didnt have these issues before when it was just in D1 status and the environment is still the same I do understand the Vp causes the unit to run warm please tell us what the operating temp should be for this unit so we can monitor accordingly.


----------



## JeffDL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you saying that the AVM50 sucks compared to the D2? I would believe that the AVM50 is one of the best bargain in the pre/pro market and to claim that the difference is night and day is an insult to those who bought the AVM50.
> 
> 
> With the scenario presented I would also opt for the D2, but I would not say that the D2 is WAY WAY BETTER than the AVM50.



I am not all all saying that. I agree the 50 is probably the best deal going right now. I did see some issues with mine but was under warranty and Anthem tech support was great. Just decieded to go with the D2 the sound difference is more than I ever thought it would be that's all I was saying.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oups...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a copy and paste then:
> 
> *Question:*
> 
> 
> "I just received 2 JVC HD-1 (yes, 2... ) and I'm starting playing with it. I want to play with the custom gamma curves in the Anthem D2 since the JVCs don't have anything to do it...
> 
> 
> There are 2 options: global output or 3 separate curves (R,G,B).
> 
> 
> Here's what Nick at Anthem told me: "slope affects gain and position affects offset".
> 
> 
> Here's what Bob Sorel said about the JVC + Crystalio II (same curves that we have in the D2 since they both use the same gennum chip and software...):
> 
> 
> "The gamma setting I used is in the output section also. Start off by adjusting the regular gamma control (not the RGB gammas) to choose "low IRE" and then adjust it to something around +3 to +5. I personally liked +3 the best, but I haven't viewed enough material as yet to decide for sure. Oh yeah, and I started with "gamma C" from the RS-1's menu."
> 
> 
> So could you explain a little bit what am I suppose to do and measure here? How should I use the gamma sdjustment and how should measure the results to see if everything is working ok? "
> 
> *Answer from Bill (CalMAN):*
> 
> 
> "Let's start with the last part since that is the easiest: how to measure it. When you are doing gamma editing of any sort, you want to pay very close attention to the Point Gamma chart at the bottom of page four (if you are printing) or at the bottom right hand part of the chart area.
> 
> 
> Ideally you would see a consistent measurement value (flat line) at some level between 2.0 (if you have a lot of ambient light) to about 2.6 if you have a gravity singularity in your Home Theater (aka a black hole). What you do not want to see is a gamma that has values much below 2 for more than one or two data points, and you really do not want to see a gamma above 2.8 at low stimulus levels.
> 
> 
> By the way, unless ColorFacts really did overhaul their gamma calculation, this is an area either exclusive to us or simply pioneered by us.
> 
> 
> From what you describe, the slope sounds like it acts like a contrast control. With 8-bit video, what will happen is that video levels will be expanded as the control is increased, and compressed when they are decreased. As a concrete example, the white reference level, RGB(235, 235, 235), will increase to 236, then 237, then 238, etc. as the slope control is increased. It will decrease as the slope control is decreased: 234, 233, 232, 231, ...
> 
> 
> Given that any range compression can lead to banding artifacts, I caution anyone to scrutinize closely what happens with the image as you introduce more compression (aka decrease the control below neutral). Good material to look for banding artifacts are continuous grayscale ramps, and any cinematography of slightly textured background, especially underwater photography, large expanses of sky or where snow constitutes a significant amount of the screen image (e.g., Warren Miller ski documentaries).
> 
> 
> The Position control sounds like it would work like a brightness control, so an increase in the control would move the black point from digital RGB(16, 16, 16) to something higher: 17, 18, 19, ... This creates dynamic range compression similar to what happens when you lower the slope (contrast) control. Not only does the reference value change, but all of the intermediate values from the input signal need to be recalculated and remapped into the new output range.
> 
> 
> What will all of this do? Simply put, exanding the dynamic range between black and white should increase the gamma value (barring the introduction of clipping). Decreasing or compressing the dynamic range will decrease the gamma value. This should show up pretty readily in the Actual Gamma value and the Point Gamma chart.
> 
> 
> In so long as you do not see any banding artifacts (or other compression artifacts) in your favored source material, then this is a powerful tool. From my personal bias, I always advise caution when using these tools while we are stuck with 8-bit source material AND an 8-bit signalling scheme. Ideally, if we were to use these outboard processors in this fashion, we would want a significantly wider transmission (signaling) bus than we have source bits in order to reduce the compression artifacts as much as possible (i.e., we can take smaller steps). While I haven't worked out the math, I would expect that a 10-bit signal would be a minimum, which is only feasible outside of HDMI 1.3 using digital component video.
> 
> 
> Bill
> 
> 
> PS: Yes, I ignored the individual primary controls. We do not yet have calculations for these included in the app. Given that we are trying to finish v3, these calculations are likely to first appear in v3.1"




Awesome!


----------



## Bear5k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Your link does not work unless you register with CalMan.
> 
> 
> Maybe just copy and paste into AVS would be better.



You just have to register for our forums, which is free.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But the bottom line in what is posted from CalMan is that Gamma Correction, just like moving the Color Primaries, is something that ideally should be done INSIDE a display -- a display that implements 10 bit or higher internal video processing.



Ideally, yes. With current HDMI 1.1/1.2 implementations, you are also correct that the only way you get higher bit depths in transmission is by using component video, not RGB. This is a big reason we feel that VP manufacturers would/should be looking to HDMI 1.3 (16-bit video. :drool: )


One thing that bears repeating: we have an open invitation to all VP manufacturers to work with them to build the measurement software that ought to accompany some of these advanced calibration tools that are being developed. Right now, we have worked/are working with two popular video processor lines, and we would love to add Anthem to that list.


Bill


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I spoke with Frank yesterday morning and told him that a friend of mine and I were about to purchase a fan solution for our heat issues /bluescreen/ps3 when I read your thread and how you were told by Nick that the D2 should need no additional cooling, Frank usually doesnt read the forums and said he had no knowledge of your issue or the fact that Nick had sent out a unit because of this, my friend Jeremy and I were on a three way call with Frank explaining how adding external fan cooling solved our bluescreen problems while using the ps3, Frank indicated he had no knowledge of any of this but would get back to us. A few hours later I received a call from my dealer and I happened to be in the neighborhood so I stopped by, he said that he received a call from Nick saying that he never said that the unit should need no additional cooling even in warmer climates and that he did not send you another unit because of that, my dealer explained to me that even if this unit is in an open rack that nonmovement of air could be a factor, Jeremy called and told me that he had received a call from Nick explaining that the problem could reside in his environment and that could be causing the overheating issue. First of all I dont think you(3no) have any reason to come on the forum and state inaccurate facts about having a bluescreen issue and getting a replacement, it just doesnt add up, what are you supposed to gain by that?, at this point I do believe that youre telling the truth and that you have indeed received another unit and its doing the same thing. During the conversation with my dealer yesterday it came out that Nick had indeed replaced a unit for someone who had bluescreen issues and that heat buildup in the environment was ruled out because the person had it on an open shelf with the sides exposed, im assuming that person was not you, if im mistaken then please set me straight but from what I understand your D2 is in a cabinet. Anthem would like both Jeremy and I to do some more testing in our environments such as move the D2 in an open area such as on a table which is fine except as my wife indicated most people dont keep receivers on tray tables, Jeremy I believe is taking a different approach to his testing he is measuring the heat inside his cabinet with a temp guage with an external probe so he can take two readings one im assuming for ambient air and the other for actual air inside the cabinet and at the same time he will use the PS3 and record what happens which leads me to my other question why is this only happening with the PS3 I have no problems with my HD player and bluescreens, I converted an old closet in our basement into an audio rack, the back is open on 3 sides and the top of the rack is taken off and the rear wall is at least two feet back underneath stairs leading down to the theater, my thing is this I understand that audio and video equipment need to be cooled and we were all set to do that before discovering your post we would like Anthem to actively look into this issue and let us know if its really an issue that needs to be addressed or tell us thats just the way the unit operates which doesnt make sense because it only does this with the ps3, at some point in all of this I felt that Anthem was being a little impractical especially suggesting either directly or through my dealer that I have the unit in an open area, not everyone can do that, why not tell us what the operating temp range of the Anthem is and let us bring the unit to that temperature in whatever waywe see fit either by having it in an open area or active cooling if we are going to use it in an equipment cabinet, I think they should also expand on the comment that I do believe they made to you indicating that the unit should need "no" additional cooling even in a warmer environment,I would hope Nick would come on and finally put this to bed and explain the optimal operating environment for this unit and if there is indeed an issue with heat related blue screens as it relates to the ps3 or any other devices, as of now I have not yet done any of the testing that they wanted so honestly I have to wait to see what happens, Jeremy from what I know has started some testing but I have not yet found out what those results are as of yet. In the end I want to say that I still feel that this is a great product for what it accomplishes my D1 was upgraded to D2 status and its great I didnt have these issues before when it was just in D1 status and the environment is still the same I do understand the Vp causes the unit to run warm please tell us what the operating temp should be for this unit so we can monitor accordingly.



I agree with you. The comments that Nick made that the unit should work well even in a warm room with the sun shining directly on it was in response to my question "what is the temperature spec for the D2, I don't see one listed in the manual or on the Statement site". He never did give me a spec.


My unit is rack mounted with closed sides, but during this testing I've made sure that both the front and back are open, and that there is 12" of open space below the unit. From my post late last night (and corresponding email to Nick) you can see that I took temperature measurements of the inlet air, so Nick can assess this against the nonpublished spec for the D2.


Anthem does need to take some position on cooling, they can't have people sealing the unit in a box and expecting it to work, or afford to change out every unit if they get a flood of PS3/heat complaints (particularly if changing out the unit doesn't help). This is a question of "how hot is too hot?" Anthem has at least 4 units in the field that are misbehaving in an identical manner in a warm (but not unreasonably hot) environment with clear temperature sensitivity. It would be far more effective for them to duplicate the problem in their lab (Nick said they had to buy a PS3 because of so many other issues in the past) so they can see the misbehavior themselves, pop the hood and very quickly know a lot more about what's going on than the simple "blue screen" report that we can provide.


In any case, if this slight temperature elevation causes such extreme misoperation, then even when the unit is operating below that temperature threshold neither we nor they should feel comfortable, as we *know* that it is just barely hanging together and other factors (age, source timing variations) could easily cause similar problems in the future. This is a clear indication that they have a problem and need to address it, not sweep it under the rug with a statement of "your unit needs better cooling".


Having said that, I still maintain that Anthem's tech support is the best that I have ever encountered, and I am confident they will address their issue.


----------



## JeffDL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually the 1.3 upgrade to the XA2 slightly degrades SD playpack. Not substantively but it looses the edge I thought it had over the BDP for SD playback.
> 
> 
> The problem is squarely 11g, so we have 4 out of 4, but do you get any HDMI audio with 1.0 or 1.3 on the XA2?



I sent Nick an email about this issue this morning. Does anyone have older versions of 1.11 they could send me I would like to play around with some older versions code, I asked Nick for the same thing. [email protected]


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bear5k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ideally, yes. With current HDMI 1.1/1.2 implementations, you are also correct that the only way you get higher bit depths in transmission is by using component video, not RGB. This is a big reason we feel that VP manufacturers would/should be looking to HDMI 1.3 (16-bit video. :drool: )



Lest we confuse people, we should clarify that it is not a choice of Component (analog) video vs. HDMI (digital) video.


HDMI V1.1 and V1.2, today, *ALREADY* support up to 12 bit data elements if the devices at both ends of the cable implement YCbCr 4:2:2 data format at 12 bits each for each of the three data channels (Y, Cb, and Cr). The Anthem apparently does this today as do a significant number of displays which also have internal 10 or 12 bit video processing. Other displays support YCbCr 4:2:2 data format at 10 bit data elements (which the Anthem will also handle).


However, HDMI V1.1 and V1.2 are limited to 8 bit data elements for either YCbCr 4:4:4 data format or for RGB data format. This is what HDMI V1.3 extends.


----------------------------------------------


I am not very optimistic about external video processors being able to offload the video transfer function processing from displays so that displays can be made more cheaply. Things like gamma correction and color gamut correction really should be done with a detailed understanding of the display's internal technology. Buying a cheap display and depending upon an external video processor to fix it means you are relying on the video processor's understanding of all the variations on display technology out there -- which are increasing in number each year.


And as previously mentioned, things like color gamut correction can only be handled in a limited way inside an external video processor because the data signal going from the processor to the display, no matter how wide it is, can't access the internal display settings that really ought to be changed.


So yes HDMI V1.3 helps offloading of such stuff (by widening the data path from the video processor to the display) but I'm not at all confident this is going to pay off for folks.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For the recent posters who believe they have heat related problems with the D2, is anyone seeing this when using a source device connected via Component cables, or whose HDMI output is spec'ed as HDMI V1.1 or V1.2?


Or are the only problems you are seeing from an HDMI V1.3 source device while actually using its HDMI output -- i.e., the PS3 or Toshiba XA2?


The HDMI V1.3 driver chips used in such source products are fairly new. It would not surprise me to discover the root cause of the problem here is that the HDMI V1.3 driver chip is sending something which makes the Anthem's receiver chip operate marginally at "normal" operating temperature, or that the response signals generated by the Anthem chip, again at "normal" operating temperature, are too close to the edge of acceptable timings for the HDMI V1.3 driver chip in the source due to a flaw in the HDMI V1.3 driver chip.


We can debunk this idea if it is shown that HDMI V1.1 or V1.2 source are also having this problem with your Anthem. And of course if the problem also shows up using Component video connections we can completely eliminate the HDMI circuit itself.

--Bob


----------



## Bear5k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lest we confuse people, we should clarify that it is not a choice of Component (analog) video vs. HDMI (digital) video.



Sorry! When I talk about component, I am typically talking about video format, not the more common way of describing the three Analog Component video connectors (I do try to qualify that). I expected that my discussion of HDMI made it clear that I was talking about digital component video over HDMI. Sorry for the lack of clarity!











> Quote:
> HDMI V1.1 and V1.2, today, *ALREADY* support up to 12 bit data elements if the devices at both ends of the cable implement YCbCr 4:2:2 data format at 12 bits each for each of the three data channels (Y, Cb, and Cr). The Anthem apparently does this today as do a significant number of displays which also have internal 10 or 12 bit video processing. Other displays support YCbCr 4:2:2 data format at 10 bit data elements (which the Anthem will also handle).
> 
> 
> However, HDMI V1.1 and V1.2 are limited to 8 bit data elements for either YCbCr 4:4:4 data format or for RGB data format. This is what HDMI V1.3 extends.



Yes, and so that folks are clear, the reason 4:2:2 works is because the Chroma channels are at half the bit-depth (in reality) of the Luma (Y') channel. Thus, with 4:2:2 and 12 bits, you are at 24 total bits (12 + 6 + 6), whereas with 4:4:4 video, you have three "full size" video channels, so you are limited to 8-bits/channel, since the total available bandwidth for HDMI 1.1/1.2 is 24-bits/pixel.



> Quote:
> I am not very optimistic about external video processors being able to offload the video transfer function processing from displays so that displays can be made more cheaply. Things like gamma correction and color gamut correction really should be done with a detailed understanding of the display's internal technology. Buying a cheap display and depending upon an external video processor to fix it means you are relying on the video processor's understanding of all the variations on display technology out there -- which are increasing in number each year.
> 
> 
> And as previously mentioned, things like color gamut correction can only be handled in a limited way inside an external video processor because the data signal going from the processor to the display, no matter how wide it is, can't access the internal display settings that really ought to be changed.
> 
> 
> So yes HDMI V1.3 helps offloading of such stuff (by widening the data path from the video processor to the display) but I'm not at all confident this is going to pay off for folks.
> 
> --Bob



We are agreed that it would be better for the display manufacturers to do things like a CMS or gamma editor internally, but my guess is that the reality of the VP market is that such features are going to be implemented as a way to add features once you get to the point of having "good enough" basic video processing (i.e., deinterlacing and scaling). Signal shaping becomes is just the most obvious next frontier. One of our goals is to make sure that people have the right software to use these additional tools correctly (and sparingly!).










Bill


----------



## agrsiv95

I have done some testing as well for the different operating temps in my closet. I have found that the temp rises about 14 degrees between my HD cable box and the PS3. I used a dual zone thermometer with the case stuck in the top off the closet and the probe on a clip about 1" off the top of the D2. The room it self is 68-70 degrees.


I had the cable box on for 92 min watching 720p/1080i to find the temp 78.6 in the closet and 82.9 degrees above the D2. I then switched on the PS3 to watch a movie. About 65min into the movie I had my first blue screen dropout. The temp at that point was 82.4 in the closet and 96.7 above the D2. Within 5 minutes I had 2 more drops and the temps were 82.8 and 97.4 degrees.


I then turned on the two 92mm fans and didn't have another dropout with temps dropping to 87.3 in the closet and 87.1 above the D2 after about 90min run time.


I left my PS3 on over night (6 1/2 hrs)to see what the temp would be with just it on and found it to be 80.1 and 80.2 so I don't believe that is a contributing factor.


I still believe that the amount of information the PS3 is giving (18-24mbs video and 6.5mbs audio) is the reason for the increase in temps over my other sources. I do not have an HD-DVD player to see if they put out the same "bandwith" as Blu-ray does or if this is happening with other Blu-ray players. I do agree that HDMI1.3 may be another avenue to map out.


Jeremy


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For the recent posters who believe they have heat related problems with the D2, is anyone seeing this when using a source device connected via Component cables, or whose HDMI output is spec'ed as HDMI V1.1 or V1.2?
> 
> 
> Or are the only problems you are seeing from an HDMI V1.3 source device while actually using its HDMI output -- i.e., the PS3 or Toshiba XA2?
> 
> 
> The HDMI V1.3 driver chips used in such source products are fairly new. It would not surprise me to discover the root cause of the problem here is that the HDMI V1.3 driver chip is sending something which makes the Anthem's receiver chip operate marginally at "normal" operating temperature, or that the response signals generated by the Anthem chip, again at "normal" operating temperature, are too close to the edge of acceptable timings for the HDMI V1.3 driver chip in the source due to a flaw in the HDMI V1.3 driver chip.
> 
> 
> We can debunk this idea if it is shown that HDMI V1.1 or V1.2 source are also having this problem with your Anthem. And of course if the problem also shows up using Component video connections we can completely eliminate the HDMI circuit itself.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


All of my sources are connected via HDMI. I have a SA8300HDDVR, Oppo 970 and a PS3. The blue screen dropout only happens with the PS3.


Jeremy


----------



## djhamilton

Can someone tell me the best way to connect and the best settings used to get an AVM50 and PS3 (60GB model) connected? My display is a Sony Pearl (VW50) connected to my AVM50 via HDMI.


I did a search, but not coming up with much in way of settings.


I assume just connecting with HDMI cable from PS3 to AVM50. Looking for audio settings to get new sound formats TrueHD and such and need to know correct video settings for 1080p/24 from PS3.


thanks,


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djhamilton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can someone tell me the best way to connect and the best settings used to get an AVM50 and PS3 (60GB model) connected? My display is a Sony Pearl (VW50) connected to my AVM50 via HDMI.
> 
> 
> I did a search, but not coming up with much in way of settings.
> 
> 
> I assume just connecting with HDMI cable from PS3 to AVM50. Looking for audio settings to get new sound formats TrueHD and such and need to know correct video settings for 1080p/24 from PS3.
> 
> 
> thanks,



Yes, all you need is an HDMI cable to the AVM50.


On the PS3 desktop, go to settings then Blu-ray playback to find audio output. Set it to PCM for lossless audio formats. Remember to go in the disc menu and pick the audio format you want since most will need to be selected to hear them. As for video, I believe the best way is to send out 1080i and let the AVM50 do the work on getting it to 1080p.


Jeremy


----------



## djhamilton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, all you need is an HDMI cable to the AVM50.
> 
> 
> On the PS3 desktop, go to settings then Blu-ray playback to find audio output. Set it to PCM for lossless audio formats. Remember to go in the disc menu and pick the audio format you want since most will need to be selected to hear them. As for video, I believe the best way is to send out 1080i and let the AVM50 do the work on getting it to 1080p.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



great! thank you for your help.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For the recent posters who believe they have heat related problems with the D2, is anyone seeing this when using a source device connected via Component cables, or whose HDMI output is spec'ed as HDMI V1.1 or V1.2?
> 
> 
> Or are the only problems you are seeing from an HDMI V1.3 source device while actually using its HDMI output -- i.e., the PS3 or Toshiba XA2?
> 
> 
> The HDMI V1.3 driver chips used in such source products are fairly new. It would not surprise me to discover the root cause of the problem here is that the HDMI V1.3 driver chip is sending something which makes the Anthem's receiver chip operate marginally at "normal" operating temperature, or that the response signals generated by the Anthem chip, again at "normal" operating temperature, are too close to the edge of acceptable timings for the HDMI V1.3 driver chip in the source due to a flaw in the HDMI V1.3 driver chip.
> 
> 
> We can debunk this idea if it is shown that HDMI V1.1 or V1.2 source are also having this problem with your Anthem. And of course if the problem also shows up using Component video connections we can completely eliminate the HDMI circuit itself.
> 
> --Bob



Makes sense to me. My other HDMI sources are V1.1 so I have no way to test further. And none of them, nor my componenet source, exhibit the problem.


What other V1.3 sources are out there?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bear5k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, and so that folks are clear, the reason 4:2:2 works is because the Chroma channels are at half the bit-depth (in reality) of the Luma (Y') channel. Thus, with 4:2:2 and 12 bits, you are at 24 total bits (12 + 6 + 6), whereas with 4:4:4 video, you have three "full size" video channels, so you are limited to 8-bits/channel, since the total available bandwidth for HDMI 1.1/1.2 is 24-bits/pixel.



That's correct for 4:2:2 when considered as an average per pixel, but really what's going on is that you get one color sample for every two luminance samples across the line. So you don't actually lose bit depth in the color -- i.e., you don't lose fineness of variations when ramping from one color to the next. Bit depth is (up to) a full 12 bits per sample of Y and also (up to) a full 12 bits per sample for each of Cb and Cr. It's just that the Cb and Cr samples come along only half as often as Y samples.


That is, the spatial resolution for color across each line is only half of that for luminance.


Here's a post I made earlier in this thread that goes into more detail for folks who are interested:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9445345 


--------------------------------------------------


For folks who are doing only minor tweaks to gray ramp and color ramp settings in the Anthem, this is likely not important. YCbCr 4:4:4 -- the usual default for HDMI to HDMI connections -- will work just fine. Which is good, because many displays don't accept YCbCr 4:2:2 data format.


But for folks attempting significant alterations in the Anthem settings in an effort to correct for a display with problems, the issues of banding and crush that you bring up may start to rear their heads. And for those folks, if they are so fortunate as to have a display which accepts YCbCr 4:2:2 at 10 bits or 12 bits, switching the Anthem output Data Format to YCbCr 4:2:2 might allow them more range of adjustment in the Anthem before banding and crush problems become too visible on the problem display.


It's a game of compromises. How far can you push the fix for one problem before you start seeing some OTHER problem as an undesired consequence?

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I recall a post earlier in this thread about someone who had damaged their HDMI connection. Someone else pointed out these "HDMI Savers" in another thread, and I thought I would pass it along here:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...ormat=2&style= 


Seems like pretty cheap insurance to me. Unfortunately, they are currently out of stock.


Edit: back in stock, and I just ordered some!


----------



## JeffDL

Nick kicks ass. Going to try e code tonight report later........


----------



## Will Binegar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Will Binegar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply Bob. I did make sure to hit Main on the remote, and when that didn't work, I tried the front panel of the D2. Dynamics was coming up the night before when being fed from the HD Tivo. At the time I didn't realize that you first hit Dynamics and then use the arrow keys to toggle between the three settings; no wonder it didn't seem to do anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Generally this is a feature most would prefer not to use, but when the kids have to sleep, they've got to sleep. Given that it was designed into the original Dolby Digital spec; it would be a surprise if it doesn't work for Dolby Digital Plus.
> 
> 
> Boy, I sure hope that you're mistaken about how Anthem implemented the feature. Just lowering the volume on LFE won't cut it. While it's true that LFE travels through the house more effectively than higher frequencies, there's lots of other loud sounds outside the LFE range to keep the kids up: breaking glass for example. Ideally, Dynamics would shorten the volume range for all frequencies: soft sounds get louder and loud sounds get quieter relative to the actual recorded level. Meridian's implementation works pretty well, with Low, Medium, Mix, and Max options.
> 
> 
> I'll do some more playing (it becomes work when you don't figure it out), and report back. If someone else has solved the mystery, let me in on the secret. I'm using a Toshiba HD-XA2 fed via HDMI. (Maybe it's a bitstream versus PCM setting on the player...)



I pulled up Lost on the HD Tivo last night and the Dynamics options were there for the testing. It did tone down an explosion, but didn't seem to have much effect on other louder passages; so Bob may be right about Dynamics just working on LFE. I'll have to experiment more on that. I didn't get around to HD DVD last night, but I will report back once I do.


----------



## JeffDL

Down rev'd code to 1.11e today. Seems to have done the trick. My XA2 (1.3) is running SD-DVD's and HD-DVD's with out issue. PS3 is running games and Blu-ray's at 1080p with out issue.

Customer service at Anthem and Nick in particular is awesome!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Will Binegar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I pulled up Lost on the HD Tivo last night and the Dynamics options were there for the testing. It did tone down an explosion, but didn't seem to have much effect on other louder passages; so Bob may be right about Dynamics just working on LFE. I'll have to experiment more on that. I didn't get around to HD DVD last night, but I will report back once I do.



Well I failed to remember correctly the writeup on Dynamics in the Anthem manual. It refers to reducing the dynamic range of the entire sound track (not just LFE) and says it is dependent on having at least 5.1 speakers set up and the presence of "dynamic scaling" information in the sound track.


I'm not familiar with dynamic scaling information in a sound track, but suspect it is meta-data that is passed as part of a DD or DTS bitstream -- i.e., extra info embedded in the sound track bitstream that can be used by the bitstream decoder.


If that's true, then it would make sense for Dynamics to be inactive if you are playing a multi-channel PCM sound track because there is no meta-data in what comes into the Anthem from the player.


That is, Dynamics or its equivalent, and other meta-data related operations such as Dialog Normalization, are (if I'm now correct) something that's done when the bitstream is decoded into PCM. If the player is doing the decode to PCM, then this is something that has to be implemented in the player.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Down rev'd code to 1.11e today. Seems to have done the trick. My XA2 (1.3) is running SD-DVD's and HD-DVD's with out issue. PS3 is running games and Blu-ray's at 1080p with out issue.
> 
> Customer service at Anthem and Nick in particular is awesome!!!



Thanks for the update. That is good news. Sounds like they have some work to do to figure out why it was doing this with the other version.







Apparently it is NOT a heat issue though?


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the update. That is good news. Sounds like they have some work to do to figure out why it was doing this with the other version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently it is NOT a heat issue though?



Nick told me today that they are setting up a PS3/D2 temperature test in the lab to try to duplicate the problem. Shouldn't take long, so maybe we'll hear tomorrow, at least whether they can recreate the problem.


----------



## Catdaddy67

I am looking at the D2 or AVM50 to pair up with my RS1, rather than the Lumagen and RX-V2700, is anyone who has an AVM50 having these heat issues with a PS3? Or is it isolated to just the D2 currently?


Also, i have been trying to jump into this thread, from the start and goign backwards, and there is just so much information .. sorry if this sounds a little lazy .. is there a significant enough difference to the AVM50 and the D2 if I was only going to use them for movie watching? With the PS3 and the toshibas doing the lossless processing internally would I get the same quality sound enough to stick with the AVM50, for the price difference?


I can practically get a panamorph uh380 for the difference in price between the two.


----------



## PooperScooper

I believe the biggest difference between the 2 would be "upgradeability". This is the main reason I bought the D2 over the AVM50 and the upcoming audio EQ processing. On paper the D2 does have better audio but it depends on the rest of your system, your ears, and how picky you are about movie audio.


larry


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am looking at the D2 or AVM50 to pair up with my RS1, rather than the Lumagen and RX-V2700, is anyone who has an AVM50 having these heat issues with a PS3? Or is it isolated to just the D2 currently?
> 
> 
> Also, i have been trying to jump into this thread, from the start and goign backwards, and there is just so much information .. sorry if this sounds a little lazy .. is there a significant enough difference to the AVM50 and the D2 if I was only going to use them for movie watching? With the PS3 and the toshibas doing the lossless processing internally would I get the same quality sound enough to stick with the AVM50, for the price difference?
> 
> 
> I can practically get a panamorph uh380 for the difference in price between the two.



Hey Catdaddy, good to see you in these parts!










I agree with Mr. Pooper: the upgradeability of the D2 in the future (if you had a D1, you could have had it turned into a D2 for a price), plus the long anticipated room EQ are two of the main differences, as well as the upsampling ability of the D2 vs the AVM50.


The AVM50 has identical video processing as the D2, so your RS1 will be equally happy with either! And you are right about all the info stuffed into this thread. That alone is a good reason to order an Anthem....as well as great customer support direct from Anthem.


----------



## Will Binegar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I failed to remember correctly the writeup on Dynamics in the Anthem manual. It refers to reducing the dynamic range of the entire sound track (not just LFE) and says it is dependent on having at least 5.1 speakers set up and the presence of "dynamic scaling" information in the sound track.
> 
> 
> I'm not familiar with dynamic scaling information in a sound track, but suspect it is meta-data that is passed as part of a DD or DTS bitstream -- i.e., extra info embedded in the sound track bitstream that can be used by the bitstream decoder.
> 
> 
> If that's true, then it would make sense for Dynamics to be inactive if you are playing a multi-channel PCM sound track because there is no meta-data in what comes into the Anthem from the player.
> 
> 
> That is, Dynamics or its equivalent, and other meta-data related operations such as Dialog Normalization, are (if I'm now correct) something that's done when the bitstream is decoded into PCM. If the player is doing the decode to PCM, then this is something that has to be implemented in the player.
> 
> --Bob




That sounds right to me. I'll take a look at the HD-XA2 menu's this weekend and see what's what.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It struck me that I'm not really sure the D2 or AVM-50 can actually handle 12 bit per data channel video output over YCbCr 4:2:2. Upon further checking, I believe the Gennum VXP video stuff is limited to 10 bit processing. Even if that processing is done internally in the 4:4:4 format (meaning more spatial resolution for color) there won't be a full 12 bits of precision carried through the math -- certainly at least for the Y luminance channel.


The bottom line is that I believe the best you can get out of the D2 or AVM-50 using YCbCr 4:2:2 output will be 10 bits per data channel precision. That is, even if the actual communication to the display is 12 bits per channel, the real information it contains is the equivalent of 10 bits.


Now the difference between 8 bits per channel (i.e., YCbCr 4:4:4 output) and 10 bits per channel is nothing to sniff at, particularly if you are massaging the gray or color ramps significantly. 8 bits represents 255 unique values and 10 bits represents 1023 unique values. So if you start shifting the spacing between steps in what starts out as 8 bit data, 10 bits makes it possible to do that with less chance of quantization error.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Down rev'd code to 1.11e today. Seems to have done the trick. My XA2 (1.3) is running SD-DVD's and HD-DVD's with out issue. PS3 is running games and Blu-ray's at 1080p with out issue.
> 
> Customer service at Anthem and Nick in particular is awesome!!!



Bingo. e seems top be the magic letter. And we'll get more focus on fixing this in future releases








I love the fact that Anthem listens and focuses on stability.


----------



## Catdaddy67

Thanks Guys!


Hey Rob, looks like I am gonna be camping out in this neck of the woods from now on in, too. 8) You are gonna have one mighty fine setup, my friend. 8)


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It struck me that I'm not really sure the D2 or AVM-50 can actually handle 12 bit per data channel video output over YCbCr 4:2:2. Upon further checking, I believe the Gennum VXP video stuff is limited to 10 bit processing. Even if that processing is done internally in the 4:4:4 format (meaning more spatial resolution for color) there won't be a full 12 bits of precision carried through the math -- certainly at least for the Y luminance channel.
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that I believe the best you can get out of the D2 or AVM-50 using YCbCr 4:2:2 output will be 10 bits per data channel precision. That is, even if the actual communication to the display is 12 bits per channel, the real information it contains is the equivalent of 10 bits.
> 
> 
> Now the difference between 8 bits per channel (i.e., YCbCr 4:4:4 output) and 10 bits per channel is nothing to sniff at, particularly if you are massaging the gray or color ramps significantly. 8 bits represents 255 unique values and 10 bits represents 1023 unique values. So if you start shifting the spacing between steps in what starts out as 8 bit data, 10 bits makes it possible to do that with less chance of quantization error.
> 
> --Bob



With most everything we watch coming at 8bit 4:2:0, anything past 10bit 4:2:2 is really not necessary. How many people will see a difference between a video processor upsampling to 4:4:4 or a display?







I haven't been paying that close attention but I don't recall any displays going past about 11bits of color. Another thing which I'm not completing clear on is if you have 8bit 1080p24 source and displaying at 1080p, how much dithering is actually done where 10-12 bit processing and 10bit output is necessary? It's easy to see why when changing resolution (scaling) it's necessary.


larry


----------



## LEVESQUE

I played alot with 1.11g yesterday. Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1, HD-XA2, JVC HD-1. Everything is working flawlessly. Picture, sound.


I was in 1080p24 heaven from "one end to the other" with the Pioneer and the new JVC.







I can't believe everything is working so easily at 1080p24 with the Anthem while alot of high-end scalers are still struggling to make 1080p24 work properly.










It's really strange that everyone else is having problems with 1.11g and HD-XA2 , but not me.







1.11g was working with my HD-XA2, my Ruby and now both my 2 JVC HD-1 (yes, I have 2...







).


----------



## JeffDL

My problem with 1.11g was when the XA2 was sending out a signal through HDMI and the D2 was not picking it up, and all I was getting was the blue screen of death. In talking to Nick they had 2 set ups running, one with 1.11g and 1.11e. They were seeing some of the same issues I was on the 1.11g but when they down rev'd that to 1.11e everything ran fine. Now on the system running 1.11e they were seeing some other issues so they uprev'd that to 1.11g and were seeing no issues what so ever. Strange I agree.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My problem with 1.11g was when the XA2 was sending out a signal through HDMI and the D2 was not picking it up, and all I was getting was the blue screen of death. In talking to Nick they had 2 set ups running, one with 1.11g and 1.11e. They were seeing some of the same issues I was on the 1.11g but when they down rev'd that to 1.11e everything ran fine. Now on the system running 1.11e they were seeing some other issues so they uprev'd that to 1.11g and were seeing no issues what so ever. Strange I agree.



Settings, maybe? Did Nick say what they did with settings when moving from e to g? Factory defaults? Restored with g settings editors?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With most everything we watch coming at 8bit 4:2:0, anything past 10bit 4:2:2 is really not necessary. How many people will see a difference between a video processor upsampling to 4:4:4 or a display?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't been paying that close attention but I don't recall any displays going past about 11bits of color. Another thing which I'm not completing clear on is if you have 8bit 1080p24 source and displaying at 1080p, how much dithering is actually done where 10-12 bit processing and 10bit output is necessary? It's easy to see why when changing resolution (scaling) it's necessary.
> 
> 
> larry



Larry, I'm in complete agreement with you that NORMALLY pushing the bit depth up is pointless because you are limited by the accuracy of the incoming video -- rounding errors are built in to the results because they are part of the source video data. You can't "invent" information that wasn't there in the first place. It's the same deal as why SDTV doesn't become HDTV simply by scaling up the video resolution.


But what we've been talking about recently is the possibility of offloading from a poorly engineered display the necessary video processing to do proper gamma correction and color gamut correction. I had made the point that doing this in an external processor is not as good as doing it with controls that would be built in to a better engineered display because:


1) The video stream from the external video processor to the display can't access the improper settings that really need to be adjusted in the poorly engineered display, and


2) Significant changes to the gray and color ramps will lead to banding or crush due to insufficient bit depth in the transmission of the video stream to the display -- as compared to doing that math internally in a 10, 11, or 12 bit video display itself.


Nothing can be done about problem (1). If, for example, a color primary needs to be adjusted to GREATER saturation in the display to represent the HDTV color space you can't do it by any massaging of the video stream sent from the external processor to the display because no part of the R, G, or B data can represent more than "full brightness". You can't do math on the video to tell the display to light up a pixel with Red that is brighter than "full brightness".


But problem (2) can be reduced if (i) the external video processor does more than 8 bit math on the video data, (ii) the transmission is done in HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 at 10 or 12 bits, and (iii) the display maintains that 10 or 12 bit precision all the way until the pixels light up. If all three of those are true, then you may not see problem (2) depending upon how dramatically you are trying to massage the video to correct for the display's problems.


So if you have to alter the gray ramps significantly for gamma correction for example, you can avoid losing steps (i.e, avoid producing banding) by holding the results to greater than 8 bits and actually transmitting that to the display. Again you are not creating information that doesn't exist in the source content. You are, instead, correcting for a flaw in the display's ability to present that content accurately.


OK, that's all well and good. And HDMI as far back as V1.0 offers YCbCr 4:2:2 data format as an option at up to 12 bits per data channel (presuming both the source and destination devices choose to implement that option). So I've been talking about 12 bit video from the Anthem as if it were a done deal. And it likely is in the sense that the Anthem's HDMI output probably supports 12 bit YCbCr 4:2:2 data format.


But the internal video math in the Anthem is only 10 bits as best I can tell. So in reality the best you can get is a 10 bit equivalent result if the Anthem is asked to try to correct for an improper video transfer function (the way the incoming video is turned into brightness of pixels) in a poorly engineered display.


Again, it is still better to buy a display that has no such problem, or that has its own, internal controls to fix the problem properly. And 10 bit YCbCr 4:2:2 may still help folks whose displays are not so good, but which will, despite that, still accept YCbCr at 10 or 12 bits anyway. But I felt I had left the wrong impression that the Anthem was actually providing a 12 bit solution, so I wanted to correct the record.

--Bob


----------



## Bear5k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With most everything we watch coming at 8bit 4:2:0, anything past 10bit 4:2:2 is really not necessary. How many people will see a difference between a video processor upsampling to 4:4:4 or a display?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't been paying that close attention but I don't recall any displays going past about 11bits of color. Another thing which I'm not completing clear on is if you have 8bit 1080p24 source and displaying at 1080p, how much dithering is actually done where 10-12 bit processing and 10bit output is necessary? It's easy to see why when changing resolution (scaling) it's necessary.
> 
> 
> larry



To an extent, you are correct. However, what we were discussing was the importance of higher bit depths when you start, essentially, editing the source material within the processor. There, you do want more bits than the 8-bit source so that you don't end-up introducing more unpleasant problems in the image than you are trying to correct. Additional bits help because you have more granular control, and can dial-in only as much of a change as you need, while allowing the rest of the signal to be re-scaled more smoothly.


Bill


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I played alot with 1.11g yesterday. Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1, HD-XA2, JVC HD-1. Everything is working flawlessly. Picture, sound.
> 
> 
> I was in 1080p24 heaven from "one end to the other" with the Pioneer and the new JVC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't believe everything is working so easily at 1080p24 with the Anthem while alot of high-end scalers are still struggling to make 1080p24 work properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's really strange that everyone else is having problems with 1.11g and HD-XA2 , but not me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.11g was working with my HD-XA2, my Ruby and now both my 2 JVC HD-1 (yes, I have 2...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).




Great News.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My problem with 1.11g was when the XA2 was sending out a signal through HDMI and the D2 was not picking it up, and all I was getting was the blue screen of death. In talking to Nick they had 2 set ups running, one with 1.11g and 1.11e. They were seeing some of the same issues I was on the 1.11g but when they down rev'd that to 1.11e everything ran fine. Now on the system running 1.11e they were seeing some other issues so they uprev'd that to 1.11g and were seeing no issues what so ever. Strange I agree.



This is disturbing. It implies either that the software install may vary from try to try or that there is some piece of data which isn't being initialized properly and so you get random results depending upon what's left behind in memory from whatever you have done before.


It's disturbing because these are the types of bugs that are hard to track down and kill.


Fortunately Anthem saw the problem, so they know there's something that has to be fixed. That's half the battle in this stuff -- doing a sufficiently controlled test to verify a problem is really there.


For example, it could be that upgrading to V1.11e, then V1.11f, then V1.11g leaves things in memory that produce the problem, but that then downgrading to V1.11e and then directly back to V1.11g (without V1.11f in between) leaves things so that there is no problem.


It might be that folks who went to V1.11e and then to V1.11g (skipping V1.11f) will have no problem. That's just guesswork of course.

--Bob


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bear5k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To an extent, you are correct. However, what we were discussing was the importance of higher bit depths when you start, essentially, editing the source material within the processor. There, you do want more bits than the 8-bit source so that you don't end-up introducing more unpleasant problems in the image than you are trying to correct. Additional bits help because you have more granular control, and can dial-in only as much of a change as you need, while allowing the rest of the signal to be re-scaled more smoothly.
> 
> 
> Bill



I aggree with you but "how much dithering is actually done where 10-12 bit processing and 10bit output is necessary?" in my post was meant to address that even though I put it in with 1080p->1080p path. For 10bit output you don't need more than 12 bits for computations.


larry


----------



## jpillar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am not all all saying that. I agree the 50 is probably the best deal going right now. I did see some issues with mine but was under warranty and Anthem tech support was great. Just decieded to go with the D2 the sound difference is more than I ever thought it would be that's all I was saying.



I am new to all this and I am not an electrical engineer so if I am asking a stupid question it is because I am not that educated on all the new digital electronics. I am planning on purchasing a new home entertainment system some time next year, a new 60 inch pioneer 1080P plasma. a Paradigm signature series speaker system (5.1) and an OPPo DVD player. Verizon Fios should be available in my area by then (Have D* right now, no HD). The D2 is on my list but I have some questions. I understand the processors in the Pioneers are pretty good. So would there be any advantage in getting the D2? Secondly do you need external amps with the D2 or does it do a good job by itself at producing good sound and does it have adequate power to drive the speaker system? Some of the high end Denon AVRs weigh 40 lbs and up. The D2 only weighs 27 lbs so are the amps in it good enough. I did not see any per channel output in the specs (watts per channel?) if that is important. Most of this thread is focused on the video processing of the D2. I was wondering if another thread could be started just about the audio? Thanks...john


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I aggree with you but "how much dithering is actually done where 10-12 bit processing and 10bit output is necessary?" in my post was meant to address that even though I put it in with 1080p->1080p path. For 10bit output you don't need more than 12 bits for computations.
> 
> 
> larry



For newbies: Dithering is another method of increasing the perceived accuracy of results at the expense of resolution. Suppose you want to represent a solid patch of brightness 1/2 but you only can light up pixels as 0 or 1 -- i.e., 1/2 is not an option. Well one way to do that is to alternate pixels so that all the odd pixels are 0 and all the even pixels are 1. If you stand back far enough, the eye doesn't see the individual pixels, but sees an average light intensity of 1/2 (simplifying of course). But you have lost resolution. If you get close enough you will see the individual pixels instead of a smooth patch of brightness 1/2. You will see vertical lines of brightness 0 alternating with brightness 1.


Dithering is the process of using adjacent pixels in combination to produce intermediate results that could otherwise not be presented due to the quantized, digital nature of the video. Dithering in color is even more complex because of the eye's varying response to Red vs. Green vs. Blue.


The higher the bit depth of the video math, the less dithering you need to do.


---------------------------------------------------------------


Larry,

I see what you are getting at, but again the issue here is whether an external video processor (such as the Anthem) can do just as good or better a job at correcting problems in the display as would be done by controls/processing inside the display itself.


The 8 bit gray and color ramps work fine as long as they are not fiddled with so much that non-linear step sizes become obvious. The problem is, if all you are transmitting to the display is 8 bit results (i.e., YCbCr 4:4:4 or RGB) then it doesn't take all that much fiddling before you will produce problems. For most folks, where only modest adjustments are needed (because the display is not that far off to begin with), it will be fine. But for folks with problematic displays, it may not do the trick.


Assuming you have YCbCr 4:2:2 available, 10 bit may, indeed, be adequate. I'm not really clear on how to predict when 11 or 12 bit will produce noticeably superior results (given the source data is limited to 8 bits). I mean a bad display (needing correction) can only be so bad to begin with before folks will just think it is broken anyway.


Most of the better displays are doing 10 bit internal processing, which implies that 10 bit should be enough.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am new to all this and I am not an electrical engineer so if I am asking a stupid question it is because I am not that educated on all the new digital electronics. I am planning on purchasing a new home entertainment system some time next year, a new 60 inch pioneer 1080P plasma. a Paradigm signature series speaker system (5.1) and an OPPo DVD player. Verizon Fios should be available in my area by then (Have D* right now, no HD). The D2 is on my list but I have some questions. I understand the processors in the Pioneers are pretty good. So would there be any advantage in getting the D2? Secondly do you need external amps with the D2 or does it do a good job by itself at producing good sound and does it have adequate power to drive the speaker system? Some of the high end Denon AVRs weigh 40 lbs and up. The D2 only weighs 27 lbs so are the amps in it good enough. I did not see any per channel output in the specs (watts per channel?) if that is important. Most of this thread is focused on the video processing of the D2. I was wondering if another thread could be started just about the audio? Thanks...john



Welcome, John!


The Anthem Statement D2 and the Anthem AVM-50 are "preamp/processors". That means that unlike a receiver they HAVE NO internal audio power amps. You need to pair them up with a separate, multi-channel audio power amp. Separate power amps are sold by many manufacturers including Anthem.


As a general rule, preamp/processors (pre/pros) and separate power amps are engineered to produce significantly better quality audio than the lower priced receivers which combine both features into a single chassis. For example, the power supply in the D2 is not burdened with also driving the audio power amp stage.


Pre/pros often use better quality (more expensive) parts as well since they are usually targeted at a higher price point in the market.


--------------------------------------------------


The D2 and AVM-50 are head and shoulders above anything Pioneer is currently shipping as far as video processing is concerned. They include a video solution that is right up there with the best, standalone video processors.


The D2's audio is also dramatically better than even the high end of the Pioneer Elite line of receivers right now.


The audio side of the D2 is a D1, which has been out for a while. If you do some googling, you will likely find good reviews of the D1's audio quality.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Guys!
> 
> 
> Hey Rob, looks like I am gonna be camping out in this neck of the woods from now on in, too. 8) You are gonna have one mighty fine setup, my friend. 8)



Cool.










Our official mascot welcomes you:


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I played alot with 1.11g yesterday. Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1, HD-XA2, JVC HD-1. Everything is working flawlessly. Picture, sound.
> 
> 
> I was in 1080p24 heaven from "one end to the other" with the Pioneer and the new JVC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't believe everything is working so easily at 1080p24 with the Anthem while alot of high-end scalers are still struggling to make 1080p24 work properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's really strange that everyone else is having problems with 1.11g and HD-XA2 , but not me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.11g was working with my HD-XA2, my Ruby and now both my 2 JVC HD-1 (yes, I have 2...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).



So, are you going to be the first person to stack a couple of these projectors?!?!


----------



## JeffDL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is disturbing. It implies either that the software install may vary from try to try or that there is some piece of data which isn't being initialized properly and so you get random results depending upon what's left behind in memory from whatever you have done before.
> 
> 
> It's disturbing because these are the types of bugs that are hard to track down and kill.
> 
> 
> Fortunately Anthem saw the problem, so they know there's something that has to be fixed. That's half the battle in this stuff -- doing a sufficiently controlled test to verify a problem is really there.
> 
> 
> For example, it could be that upgrading to V1.11e, then V1.11f, then V1.11g leaves things in memory that produce the problem, but that then downgrading to V1.11e and then directly back to V1.11g (without V1.11f in between) leaves things so that there is no problem.
> 
> 
> It might be that folks who went to V1.11e and then to V1.11g (skipping V1.11f) will have no problem. That's just guesswork of course.
> 
> --Bob



I am baffeled by the entire situtaion as well. But I went from 1.11 (no letter as this was the code that shipped on the processor) right to 1.11g. Maybe something is necessary in the e code that was left out of the g? I could reload g and see what the story is. Kind of hesitant about that as everything is up and running perfectly.

Would anyone like me to give it a shot?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am baffeled by the entire situtaion as well. But I went from 1.11 (no letter as this was the code that shipped on the processor) right to 1.11g. Maybe something is necessary in the e code that was left out of the g? I could reload g and see what the story is. Kind of hesitant about that as everything is up and running perfectly.
> 
> Would anyone like me to give it a shot?



I suggest you hold off and give Anthem a chance to think this through. If they ask you to do an experiment for them, or offer an improved version of the software to try, that's a different story.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE

Sorry everyone. We are all in the same boat with 1.11g. I don't understand (and Nick also don't understand) why everything was working smoothly yesterday, but now 50% of the time I don't have sound with 1080p24 from The Pio BDP-HD1 in the D2 (picture is pêrfect)...


If I switch to 1080p60 on the fly, the sound is back. 1080p24, no sound. BUT it was working all day yesterday! 1080p60 is perfect, for both sound and picture with the Pioneer.


Those *!%*&* gremmlins.










But don't forget we are dealing with *BETA* software here. So I'm used to it. Nick suggested to go back to 1.11e. So I will post back later.


But strangely, the XA2 is STILL working flawlessly for me with 1.11g... The combo D2 + Pioneer is, today (not yesterday, 3 films!) is giving me headaches (with the same 3 films!). But the XA2 is ok.


Sorry all. You were right. Back to 1.11e!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ok gang. You hold him, and I'll hop up and down on him while grinning!


=====================================


UPON FURTHER REVIEW: Hmmm! The slippery devil has snuck off with the tease post I was responding to!


OK, OK I'll be patient and await the "official" news....

(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

LEVESQUE,

Any chance your sudden onset of problems with V1.11g could be temperature related? Anything change there in your setup? Did you try running an external fan just to see if that helped?


I'm wondering if there is a combo of stuff going on here which is causing the HDMI processing in the Anthem to run unusually hot with V1.11g and high res input.


Just guesswork of course.

--Bob (you don't mind if I talk while I hop do you?) P.


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am not all all saying that. I agree the 50 is probably the best deal going right now. I did see some issues with mine but was under warranty and Anthem tech support was great. Just decieded to go with the D2 the sound difference is more than I ever thought it would be that's all I was saying.



I believe you are the first person I have read in this whole thread that has actually heard the difference between the AVM50 and D2. Can you go into details of what you noticed?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LEVESQUE,
> 
> Any chance your sudden onset of problems with V1.11g could be temperature related? Anything change there in your setup? Did you try running an external fan just to see if that helped?



It can't be temperature related in my case since there is a dedicated exhaust of cold air blowing directly on my D2 at all time, and also (just to be sure) a 120mm fan pushing the air outside after...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It can't be temperature related in my case since there is a dedicated exhaust of cold air blowing directly on my D2 at all time, and also (just to be sure) a 120mm fan pushing the air outside after...



Got it. Too cold then? (grin!) Ah well, it will certainly be interesting if this connection problem and 3NO's heat related video failure turn out to have the same cause.

--Bob (hop ... hop ... hop ....) P.


----------



## JeffDL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe you are the first person I have read in this whole thread that has actually heard the difference between the AVM50 and D2. Can you go into details of what you noticed?



This is not an easy question to answer as it's hard for me to put what I hear into words. First about what I am listening to, Rotel 1095 amp driving the full line of Paradigm Studio Reference v4's. 690 center 100's fronts, and the new ADP's for my surrounds.


The instant put the D2 in place and powered it on I first went for the Stealth Blu-ray. The sound was much more open and well defined I guess are the words. I really noticed the center channel dialog sounds much more real. The overall sound difference was like holding your hands over your ears and then removing them. There really is that much of a sound improvement (as there should be for the cost difference). If I actually had a quality amp I could only imagine what the sound would be like, probably looking for a P5 in the summer, money permitting.


Now this is in now way anything bad about the AVM 50 just what I observed from having both. The AVM 50 is a quality processor. There is a substantial cost difference between the 2, with both having the same video processing all of that extra cost goes into the sound and it shows that is all I am trying to say here.


----------



## AnthemAVM

Got my D2 today, lots and lots to learn, glad that I came from the AVM30, as I have a basic understanding.


So my first question. I am only get a 480P to my 70" XBR2. I have gone into the set up menu and when I select 1920x1080P at 24, and hit save, the screen goes black, and my TV tells me it can't support that input, what am I missing?


Thanks


----------



## PooperScooper

What source resolution? Does 1080p60 work?


larry


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What source resolution? Does 1080p60 work?
> 
> 
> larry



It worked this time.


Thanks


----------



## abc999

I am very happy with firmware 1.11 and I would not try any of the BETA firmwares. Eveything works fine and not a single issue. My question is on the additional processing when the AVM50 receives an uncompressed 5.1 PCM signal via HDMI. To get at least a 6.1 out of the AVM50 , one has to engage ADDITIONAL processing (EX, neo6, pl2). Wouldn't these additional processing degrade the ORIGINAL 5.1 signal? I just want to hear my single rear channel in a 6.1 configuration. What then is the best setting to engage my rear speaker WITHOUT affecting the quality of the PCM signal?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's really strange that everyone else is having problems with 1.11g and HD-XA2 , but not me.



Ok, so much for the scientific method. Levesque can you make sure your not set up as is the default to jump automatically to the next digital source. Is HDMI the only audio/video cable you have going to the XA2?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is disturbing. It implies either that the software install may vary from try to try or that there is some piece of data which isn't being
> 
> It might be that folks who went to V1.11e and then to V1.11g (skipping V1.11f) will have no problem. That's just guesswork of course.
> 
> --Bob



I went e to g and no change. HDMI audio just does not work. I know of one other with a clean install, same no HDMI audio. I hate asking if the other luminary (out of yourself & Levesque, so that leaves Levesque) to make sure he hasn't had a "doh" moment if the HDMI audio with no signal flips to the digital audio and so on.


This is definitely a real problem. Understanding engineering is not democratic and the sample size being small the 5 with problem - one without points to something significant.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am very happy with firmware 1.11 and I would not try any of the BETA firmwares. Eveything works fine and not a single issue. My question is on the additional processing when the AVM50 receives an uncompressed 5.1 PCM signal via HDMI. To get at least a 6.1 out of the AVM50 , one has to engage ADDITIONAL processing (EX, neo6, pl2). Wouldn't these additional processing degrade the ORIGINAL 5.1 signal? I just want to hear my single rear channel in a 6.1 configuration. What then is the best setting to engage my rear speaker WITHOUT affecting the quality of the PCM signal?



I would set 6.0 input to be PLIIx movie. Other than NONE, this would be your best bet to get information extracted from the surround channels and put to your single rear channel without disturbing the others, although it may. All the THX modes seem like the would process all channels somewhat given some of the descriptions. You might trying switching between NONE and PLIIx (or others) and see if you hear a difference. I can hear a difference between the PLIIx and THX Ultra2 when applying it to encoded DD bitstreams. I don't recall trying with 6ch PCM input. I have 7.1 setup and mainly use PLIIx Movie. I need to remember to try NONE sometime with using 6ch PCM.


larry


----------



## T100

Iown a avm 20 and would like to purchace the d2 but would like to know if I would hear a sound quality difference in a avm 50. Anybody went from a 20 to a 50 can you help me decide. I know there will a major sound difference 20 to d2.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *T100* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Iown a avm 20 and would like to purchace the d2 but would like to know if I would hear a sound quality difference in a avm 50. Anybody went from a 20 to a 50 can you help me decide. I know there will a major sound difference 20 to d2.



Here's a slight variation of the question to the upper crust. I have a realtime need to know the answer and appreciate everyones opinion here.
*

Is the D2 worth $3000US more than an AVM-50?*


I understand that apples to apples the price margin is much smaller, so I don't need a lesson on that, but would appreciate thoughts on the prospects of upgrading, is it worth the 3K.


Tim


----------



## PooperScooper

Your the only one who can put a "worth" on the dollars you spend. As some of us have stated before the 2 big reasons for choosing the D2 over the AVM50 is 1) "upgrade path". The D2 is their flagship product and most likely any new features that can be provided by an upgrade will be made to the D2 (like the D1 upgrade). And then 2) there's the upcoming room EQ which I believe will be D2 only. Besides the upsampling and large lip synch values I dont know where or not the D2 uses higher grade components compared to the AVM50 in corresponding "sections". From a "ease of production" view they may not, but from a "next level" point of view they may - there's reasons for either answer.


larry


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am baffeled by the entire situtaion as well. But I went from 1.11 (no letter as this was the code that shipped on the processor) right to 1.11g. Maybe something is necessary in the e code that was left out of the g? I could reload g and see what the story is. Kind of hesitant about that as everything is up and running perfectly.
> 
> Would anyone like me to give it a shot?



Interesting hypothesis. I went straight from 1.11 (as shipped) to 1.11f, and I've never been able to get my XA2 to work properly. Maybe going first to 1.11e really does make a difference!


Unfortuantely I have no projector right now so it will be a couple of weeks before I can experiment further.


-Dave


----------



## T100

I would like to know about from a 20 to 50 as far as sound quality compared from each other. I know the d2 does not compare to 20 or 50. But how about 20 ,50.


----------



## Catdaddy67

As I am interested in it mostly for watching movies, for vertical stretch and deinterlacing (versus the lumagen doing it) and for lossless audio, Im going for the AVM50. If I didnt need an HDMI audio receiver too, I probably would have gone with the Lumagen HDQ, but the AVM50 and the D2 make HDMI so nice and easy.


If I was a bigger audio buff, the D2 would have made more sense.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Folks you can spend an uncountable amount of money chasing audio nirvana. The question is whether you can afford to spend the extra money and, if you can, is there something you might spend it on that would get you more return in audio quality.


Speakers for instance.


I don't talk speakers on forums like this. I won't discuss/debate them. The discussions get too out of hand. But transducers are the first place to put your bucks. Better speakers mean more to audio than just about anything. Similarly, a better display means more to video than just about anything.


So suppose you've got your speakers and display where you want them, and you've got adequate amping, and your room serves your need for audio and video, and you've got that extra $3K burning a hole in your pocket and the question comes up whether you should spend it on a D2 vs. an AVM-50.


HECK YES!! DUH!!


The fact that you are even asking the question means you are a believer that Anthem knows what they are doing in engineering these products. The MARKET sets the pricing! The D2 is one of the hottest products going right now, and that's despite the fact that the AVM-50 has the same video solution.


You can analyse this stuff until you are blue, but if you want the integrated solution the AVM-50 and D2 offer, and if the video solution means anything to you, there's no competition right now.


The D2 carries a premium price compared to the AVM-50 and it is unlikely you can justify the full premium by purely objective measures. But it is better. It's not just hype. And if you are going to spend the money on an AVM-50 and can afford to spend the premium to step up to a D2 and have nothing better to spend the money on from an audio quality perspective, then why angst about it?


If you have OTHER elements of your audio system that need upgrading, however, then THAT'S the place to put your money. That's particularly true if you have doubts about your speakers.


And if that's the case, do not feel down about buying "only" an AVM-50. It is an exceptional product -- no slouch by any means -- and the vast majority of people out there do not have either the rest of the audio system or the sufficiently critical ear to hear the difference between it and the D2.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Folks you can spend an uncountable amount of money chasing audio nirvana. The question is whether you can afford to spend the extra money and, if you can, is there something you might spend it on that would get you more return in audio quality.
> 
> 
> Speakers for instance.
> 
> 
> I don't talk speakers on forums like this. I won't discuss/debate them. The discussions get too out of hand. But transducers are the first place to put your bucks. Better speakers mean more to audio than just about anything. Similarly, a better display means more to video than just about anything.
> 
> 
> So suppose you've got your speakers and display where you want them, and you've got adequate amping, and your room serves your need for audio and video, and you've got that extra $3K burning a hole in your pocket and the question comes up whether you should spend it on a D2 vs. an AVM-50.
> 
> 
> HECK YES!! DUH!!
> 
> 
> The fact that you are even asking the question means you are a believer that Anthem knows what they are doing in engineering these products. The MARKET sets the pricing! The D2 is one of the hottest products going right now, and that's despite the fact that the AVM-50 has the same video solution.
> 
> 
> You can analyse this stuff until you are blue, but if you want the integrated solution the AVM-50 and D2 offer, and if the video solution means anything to you, there's no competition right now.
> 
> 
> The D2 carries a premium price compared to the AVM-50 and it is unlikely you can justify the full premium by purely objective measures. But it is better. It's not just hype. And if you are going to spend the money on an AVM-50 and can afford to spend the premium to step up to a D2 and have nothing better to spend the money on from an audio quality perspective, then why angst about it?
> 
> 
> If you have OTHER elements of your audio system that need upgrading, however, then THAT'S the place to put your money. That's particularly true if you have doubts about your speakers.
> 
> 
> And if that's the case, do not feel down about buying "only" an AVM-50. It is an exceptional product -- no slouch by any means -- and the vast majority of people out there do not have either the rest of the audio system or the sufficiently critical ear to hear the difference between it and the D2.
> 
> --Bob



While driving to pick up the D2 today, I started to get of the freway and go back home, thinking I don't need this, a 50 is fine. I then told myself, what is $900 going to do to the bank account. The deal was so good I couldn't say no!


I am happy I got the unit, feel it is more than I need today, but in a year, I am sure I will still be happy with the change.


----------



## T100

I would like to compare a 20 to 50 ,has anyone had a 20 and went to a 50. My system consists a 60 xbr2,mca5,mca2,monitor11,cc350,pw2200,ams350adp350,richard gray power supply,sony bluray,222es cd changer.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got my D2 today, lots and lots to learn, glad that I came from the AVM30, as I have a basic understanding.
> 
> 
> So my first question. I am only get a 480P to my 70" XBR2. I have gone into the set up menu and when I select 1920x1080P at 24, and hit save, the screen goes black, and my TV tells me it can't support that input, what am I missing?
> 
> 
> Thanks




Congratulation!


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, so much for the scientific method. Levesque can you make sure your not set up as is the default to jump automatically to the next digital source. Is HDMI the only audio/video cable you have going to the XA2?



I'm using 1.11e now.


XA2: no s-video, nothing else, just HDMI straight to the D2. HDMI repeater off, Auto-dig No. No problems.


Pioneer BDP-HD1: at 1080p60, everything is working flawlessly. 1080p24, no sound. The D2 is reporting "Stereo" but there is no sound over HDMI. If I switch to 1080p60 out on the fly on the Pioneer, sound is back and working like it should.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Levesque,

Just in case you haven't already done so, double check the details of what video the Anthem is receiving from the Pioneer at /24Hz. Do this both with presses of the Select key and also by viewing the Info panel of the Video Source Adjust menu.


Similarly check the audio details. You say the Anthem says it is seeing stereo input when you hear nothing. What bit rate?


What you are looking for here is any chance that the Anthem thinks it is receiving some sort of odd variant of 1080p/24Hz from the Pioneer.


Meanwhile, see if there's any more detailed info available in the Pioneer status displays as to the specific type of video/audio it is sending out at /24Hz.


I've no real clue what might be going on here. I'm just looking for any additional indications of how much mismatch there is between what the Pioneer is supposed to be sending out and what the Anthem claims to be receiving.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque,
> 
> What you are looking for here is any chance that the Anthem thinks it is receiving some sort of odd variant of 1080p/24Hz from the Pioneer.



As Levesque can attest to - the Pioneer BDP-HD1 works

PERFECTLY at 1080p/24 with Version 1.11 - Plain old

Vanilla FW. Anthem has changed something in all the

Beta software to break what use to work fine.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As Levesque can attest to - the Pioneer BDP-HD1 works
> 
> PERFECTLY at 1080p/24 with Version 1.11 - Plain old
> 
> Vanilla FW. Anthem has changed something in all the
> 
> Beta software to break what use to work fine.



You just answered the question I was getting ready to ask!


Levesque, can you confirm that 1080p/24 from the Elite was working perfectly with version 1.11??


DrHankz, are you sending 1080p/24 from your Elite to the D2 as well?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm using 1.11e now.
> 
> 
> XA2: no s-video, nothing else, just HDMI straight to the D2. HDMI repeater off, Auto-dig No. No problems.
> 
> 
> Pioneer BDP-HD1: at 1080p60, everything is working flawlessly. 1080p24, no sound. The D2 is reporting "Stereo" but there is no sound over HDMI. If I switch to 1080p60 out on the fly on the Pioneer, sound is back and working like it should.



11e works fine with the XA2. I thought you said you had 11g and HDMI audio working with the XA2.


I think we are back to 4:0


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Your the only one who can put a "worth" on the dollars you spend. As some of us have stated before the 2 big reasons for choosing the D2 over the AVM50 is 1) "upgrade path". The D2 is their flagship product and most likely any new features that can be provided by an upgrade will be made to the D2 (like the D1 upgrade). And then 2) there's the upcoming room EQ which I believe will be D2 only. Besides the upsampling and large lip synch values I dont know where or not the D2 uses higher grade components compared to the AVM50 in corresponding "sections". From a "ease of production" view they may not, but from a "next level" point of view they may - there's reasons for either answer.
> 
> 
> larry



I understand that this is a qualitative question and subjective.

For $900 it would be a non-brainer. For $2900 not so much.

I think any Eq solution is way overpriced when Audessey multi-seat receivers sell for less than the mic, so that is not compelling to me.

When the D3 is out it will be many months after shipping units before D2s get upgraded. At that point the $upgrade cost probably will not be cheaper than selling outright and getting a new unit. If value is that muich less I would move it to a family room.

Guess I just talked myself out of it...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You just answered the question I was getting ready to ask!
> 
> 
> Levesque, can you confirm that 1080p/24 from the Elite was working perfectly with version 1.11??
> 
> 
> DrHankz, are you sending 1080p/24 from your Elite to the D2 as well?


*ROB*

I know you asked Levesque - but he is probably too

deep in Beta Testing.


ABSOLUTELY 100% Guarantee none of us D2 and BDP-HD1

owners have any hint of a problem with FW 1.11 and the

Pio is running 1080p/24 over HDMI with Uncompressed Audio.


There are at least 6-7 people on BOTH Threads that I know

- without naming them - with NO PROBLEMS.


Whatever they are trying to fix in the Beta Releases has

broken what USE TO WORK fine.


I don't have a single problem with my D2. It will be a cold

day in the H-Spot before I upgrade.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 11e works fine with the XA2. I thought you said you had 11g and HDMI audio working with the XA2.



Yep. HD-XA2 is working perfectly with both 1.11e AND 1.11g.


The Pio is not working anymore (only sound, not picture) with BOTH in my case.


And Rob. We are talking about BETA firmware here. It's not for those with a weak heart.







You have the choice of using it or not, if you don't want to get into uncharted territory. Like Drhankz said, 1.11 was working fine for alot of folks.


But I'm a beta-tester for alot of other products and don't mind the little problems we can get while using those. But it's my choice to try them.


There will be a v1.12 or 1.2 that will solve all those minor problems that sometimes show their ugly heads when in beta-software. But Anthem could wait 3 months and only putting official version out, but they want us to work with them to solve the problems faster.


But they don't force anyone to try the beta firmware.


----------



## lumikola

Hi,


I bought D2 here in Finland two weeks ago with 1.11g firmware originally installed and everything seems to be ok. I also bought PS3 (which was released in Europe today) and I have no problems with it.


I'm very surprised that D2 is working so well. Thanks Canada










Regards,


Jyrki


----------



## 3Dfx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ABSOLUTELY 100% Guarantee none of us D2 and BDP-HD1
> 
> owners have any hint of a problem with FW 1.11 and the
> 
> Pio is running 1080p/24 over HDMI with Uncompressed Audio.



I have a BDP-HD1 (my second) and it was affected by the "1080i bug" with 1.11. 1.11g solved the issue.


----------



## Kris Deering

I installed 1.11g and couldn't get my XA2 to work AT all with it via HDMI. Never recognizes the D2 so it never outputs anything via HDMI. If I got back to e it works just fine.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a BDP-HD1 (my second) and it was affected by the "1080i bug" with 1.11. 1.11g solved the issue.



Weird. So 1.11 works perfect for some, but if you get the "1080i bug" then 1.11g solves that issue, and everything else works fine?! Something strange seems to be going on here.


----------



## 3Dfx

With 1.11g and BDP-HD1:


1080p/24Hz -->Anthem via HDMI then HDMI to display at 720p = no audio


1090p/24Hz--> Anthem then 1080p/24Hz to display = no audio


1080p/60Hz -->Anthem then 1080p/24Hz to display = audio ok.


Not audio related but I believe I read here there is also a bug with 1080p/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24Hz as well, although 1080p/24Hz to 1080p/24Hz supposedly works.


Question...


I have BD movie playing at at the moment and I selected PCM in its audio setup. What audio mode should I choose with the Anthem? I selected none for 6.0 and the AVM50 says 5.1 on its front panel and reports 48KHz output.


----------



## lumikola

I also got some disturbing blue screens (that lasted two seconds) when room temperature was appr. 26 celsius. Nothing surprising.Temperature above D2 was much more. I just need to do someting with air conditioning.


Sound is terrific.


-----------------------------------------


Jyrki


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Folks you can spend an uncountable amount of money chasing audio nirvana. The question is whether you can afford to spend the extra money and, if you can, is there something you might spend it on that would get you more return in audio quality.
> 
> 
> -- and the vast majority of people out there do not have either the rest of the audio system or the sufficiently critical ear to hear the difference between it and the D2.
> 
> --Bob



Bob I continue to hold your perspective in awe! Not simply because I agree due to the bias I have been developing through actual experience with this technology but the overwhelming body of evidence that even with the teething problems there is no reasonable comparator at ANY price......this may change but as it stands no other manufacturer can match the D2 in a single box, period.


I very much agree with your observation that all the pieces must fit at the same qualitative level for the full value proposition to be revealed to the end user. Notwithstanding that, there is an educational element that should not be ignored. Not everyone will appreciate a distortion free experience when they have been breast fed on noisy signals since birth.


Having said that I still reiterate that I do not believe any of us have seen the capabilities of a properly calibrated system yet because we have been so focused on basic configuration issues. We have paid far too little attention to the audio side of the equation in this thread and I very much look forward to the time when the landscape is stable enough for us to engage in the subject of this thread......and that would be tweaking the results, from and to, a known predictable state.


I say all this because I believe that with all of the positive utterances that we have offered or heard from the contributors to this thread that we have to make it clear that we haven't even scratched the surface of whats possible with the D2.


I don't have the proper HD calibration tools yet and have to rely on a majority of SD material to 'approximate' the requirements for HD. To this day I recall the profound experience I had the first time I used the Joe Kane Video Essentials laser disk on my 1980 Koss model one projector and discovered how much damage one could do with just one quarter turn of the standard contrast control.


I have had a few late night random experiences when everything from source to destination have mysteriously synchronized and the result being one of total disbelief on the awesome quality that I have never experienced before in the home environment. So I have had a peek behind the curtain and life will never be the same again. I actually got up, walked to the screen and fully expected to see my reflection in the chrome jewelry shown in the HD movie! When the line between reality and virtual representation gets that blurred you know we have something very special in the D2 and all the connected parts!


As soon as we get a stable version of the D2 software that fixes the current irritants, I will reprint the volumes of valuable advice that you, Alain, Hank and others have offered to the rest of us and proceed to try and fully exploit the power of the Anthem technology.


I also want to return to the suggestion that was made to compile a specific configuration appendix for the D2 for the most popular connected devices. I am assuming that the easiest way to do that is to page through each device config and do a screen capture as it would take me several centuries to type from scratch.


But truthfully the best is yet to come.............


Peter


----------



## 3Dfx

BDP-HD1 to AVM50 with 1.11g via HDMI all the way...


1080p/24Hz (Source Direct)-->Anthem then out at 720p/60Hz = no audio


1080p/24Hz (Source Direct)-->Anthem then out at 1080p/24Hz= no audio


1080p/60Hz -->Anthem then out at 1080p/24Hz= audio ok.


1080p/60Hz-->Anthem then out at 720p/60Hz = audio ok.


Audio is PCM track


Updated from 1.11 to 1.11g with no other updates in between.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lumikola* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also got some disturbing blue screens (that lasted two seconds) when room temperature was appr. 26 celsius. Nothing surprising.Temperature above D2 was much more. I just need to do someting with air conditioning.
> 
> 
> Sound is terrific.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Jyrki



Jyrki- Were the blue screens with your PS3 input? There has been much discussion in this thread on intermittent blue screens with PS3 input at warm temperatures, but no reports of blue screens with other sources. Anthem (Nick) is setting up to recreate the problem in their lab.


----------



## lumikola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jyrki- Were the blue screens with your PS3 input? There has been much discussion in this thread on intermittent blue screens with PS3 input at warm temperatures, but no reports of blue screens with other sources. Anthem (Nick) is setting up to recreate the problem in their lab.



3no- Just PS3 and D2. Sometimes it's very warm in my small home theater room. It seems that occasionally D2 and PS3 don't like each other, but most of the time it's ok. I have version g, should I change to e?


Jyrki


EDIT: Most of the time it's ok (98%)


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lumikola* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 3no- Just PS3 and D2. Sometimes it's very warm in my small home theater room. It seems that occasionally D2 and PS3 don't like each other, but most of the time it's ok. I have version g, should I change to e?
> 
> 
> Jyrki
> 
> 
> EDIT: Most of the time it's ok (98%)



I have tried 1.11 and 1.11g. At this point I've stopped experimenting and will wait for Nick to recreate the problem. In the mean time I placed a 92mm PC case fan on top of the D2 (center slots), blowing upwards (pulling hot air out of the unit). That seems to make it work OK with the PS3 even in a warm room/cabinet. You might send Nick an email so he knows there are more people with the same problem (and so he contacts you with the eventual solution).


----------



## JeffDL

I agree with the audio aspect. I have the full line of Paradigm Signature series coming in soon. Along with the P5 I ordered today. I smell beryllium in the very very near future. I can't wait to see what the D2 will do with a proper amp, my 1095 is not cutting it, along with some new tech speakers.


----------



## lumikola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have tried 1.11 and 1.11g. At this point I've stopped experimenting and will wait for Nick to recreate the problem. In the mean time I placed a 92mm PC case fan on top of the D2 (center slots), blowing upwards (pulling hot air out of the unit). That seems to make it work OK with the PS3 even in a warm room/cabinet. You might send Nick an email so he knows there are more people with the same problem (and so he contacts you with the eventual solution).



I don't mind if there's some fans around. Of course I hate it, but what else can I do? This is still one of the coldest pleces in the world










3no: Do you have any fan recommendations?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lumikola* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I bought D2 here in Finland two weeks ago with 1.11g firmware originally installed and everything seems to be ok. I also bought PS3 (which was released in Europe today) and I have no problems with it.
> 
> 
> I'm very surprised that D2 is working so well. Thanks Canada
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> Jyrki



Welcome to the club!


Folks, this is the first report we've had of any new D2 or AVM-50 being delivered with factory installed software beyond the original V1.11.


If anyone else gets a new D2 or AVM-50 with V1.11a or later (latest known is V1.11g) please let us know.


You can determine the software version currently installed by pressing Select once on the remote. The software version comes up at the right end of the first line of status info on the front panel and (if you have OSD active) on the TV.

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lumikola* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't mind if there's some fans around. Of course I hate it, but what else can I do? This is still one of the coldest pleces in the world
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3no: Do you have any fan recommendations?



I'm just using an old fan that I had in a drawer, which fortunately happens to have high/medium/low settings. As the low works fine, I believe that any fan will do. I trust that Anthem will solve their problem and I will not need the fan in the future. I'm also switching my rack from convection cooling to forced air cooling to reduce the temperature of the other convection-cooled components as well.


For PC and cabinet cooling, the most reliable, quiet case fans I have found are the Scythe Minebea NMB Silent IC Series available from Newegg , and even in Finland . Make sure you get the low speed/low noise version of whatever size you select.


----------



## lumikola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Welcome to the club!
> 
> 
> Folks, this is the first report we've had of any new D2 or AVM-50 being delivered with factory installed software beyond the original V1.11.
> 
> 
> If anyone else gets a new D2 or AVM-50 with V1.11a or later (latest known is V1.11g) please let us know.
> 
> 
> You can determine the software version currently installed by pressing Select once on the remote. The software version comes up at the right end of the first line of status info on the front panel and (if you have OSD active) on the TV.
> 
> --Bob



It reads 1.11g in box and it really is g when I checked it . This machine came from Germany to Finland (as far as I know) and it's 230V version. Maybe they installed firmware in Germany? Only problems so far are 'blue screens' with PS3. However, everything else is working properly.


Jyrki


----------



## lumikola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Welcome to the club!
> 
> 
> Folks, this is the first report we've had of any new D2 or AVM-50 being delivered with factory installed software beyond the original V1.11.
> 
> 
> If anyone else gets a new D2 or AVM-50 with V1.11a or later (latest known is V1.11g) please let us know.
> 
> 
> You can determine the software version currently installed by pressing Select once on the remote. The software version comes up at the right end of the first line of status info on the front panel and (if you have OSD active) on the TV.
> 
> --Bob



Sorry I forgot to thank you, Bob! I wouldn't buy D2 without you










Jyrki


----------



## lumikola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm just using an old fan that I had in a drawer, which fortunately happens to have high/medium/low settings. As the low works fine, I believe that any fan will do. I trust that Anthem will solve their problem and I will not need the fan in the future. I'm also switching my rack from convection cooling to forced air cooling to reduce the temperature of the other convection-cooled components as well.
> 
> 
> For PC and cabinet cooling, the most reliable, quiet case fans I have found are the Scythe Minebea NMB Silent IC Series available from Newegg , and even in Finland . Make sure you get the low speed/low noise version of whatever size you select.



Very nice from you.... I'll ask our company's it support to install one for me.... Thank you very much 3no!


Jyrki


----------



## Bob Pariseau

From our Far Flung Correspondents: Test software version V1.11h is "in the wild". No info on what's changed yet.

--Bob


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I understand that this is a qualitative question and subjective.
> 
> For $900 it would be a non-brainer. For $2900 not so much.
> 
> I think any Eq solution is way overpriced when Audessey multi-seat receivers sell for less than the mic, so that is not compelling to me.
> 
> When the D3 is out it will be many months after shipping units before D2s get upgraded. At that point the $upgrade cost probably will not be cheaper than selling outright and getting a new unit. If value is that muich less I would move it to a family room.
> 
> Guess I just talked myself out of it...



Usually you have a "gut" feel before pulling the trigger either way. And it seems you were just looking to make sure there wasn't a "head slapper" that you missed.







I assume you'll be going to the same dealer I did. I'm sending you a PM.


larry


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lumikola* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It reads 1.11g in box and it really is g when I checked it . This machine came from Germany to Finland (as far as I know) and it's 230V version. Maybe they installed firmware in Germany? Only problems so far are 'blue screens' with PS3. However, everything else is working properly.
> 
> 
> Jyrki



I have a PS3 connected to my D2. I've been using it since last December. I don't recall getting the blue screen when using my PS3, although I've seen the blue screen other times (rarely). My D2 has firmware version 1.11. I haven't used the PS3 for games yet (would love to, but unfortunately no time). I've been using the PS3 primarily for Blu-Ray DVDs.


The only problem that I had with the PS3 and D2 was in the past, my PS3 would hang/freeze while watching a Blu-Ray DVD. It acts as if you hit the pause button. The picture would freeze, and there would be no way to get it moving again. I can still bring up the PS3 menu, but I couldn't get the movie to continue. Someone in a PS3 thread mentioned that he changed the video output from "Automatic" to "RGB" and the freeze problem went away. I did the same change, and I also upgraded to a newer PS3 firmware. Since then, I haven't had any freeze issues. It's not clear if it was the change from "Automatic" to "RGB" or because I upgraded the firmware, or both, but the freeze/hang problem went away. I'm inclined to think that it was the change from "Automatic" to "RGB", since the freeze problem stopped as soon as I changed it, or it just so happened that the 3rd firmware upgrade I got from the PS3 fixed the problem and I applied it at the same time I did the "Automatic" to "RGB" change.... I guess there's an advantage of the PS3 coming out of Europe later... firmware would be in better shape!



FYI, I have my D2 in one rack and the PS3 in another rack. The 2 racks are adjacent to each other. The two of them, especially the PS3, can heat up a rack if you don't have good ventilation. I have a fan above the D2 that automatically turns on if the temperatue reaches 80 F, then keeps going until the temperature goes back down (to I believe 75F). So, it's not always on all the time. It's also very quiet. I can't hear it from where I sit (about 12 feet away from the fan), even if my projector is off. My fan is a Middle Atlantic fan, which works great for rack mounted systems. They have some good fans:

http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/cooling/uqfp.htm 


These are interesting as well:

http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac...l.htm#compcool 


However, since these fans are made for the audiophile market, they aren't cheap. A "do-it-yourself" fan system using quiet fans designed for computers (such as one mentioned above) would be much cheaper.


----------



## chas

I can't get the Apple TV to sync via HDMI--I see a momentary flash of video, followed by a black screen. I've tried with and without the HDMI repeater setting in the set-up menu. It works fine via component and optical. I'm using software version 1.11d. No problems with other components (SA 8300HD, Tosh HD DVD, PS3, Marantz 7600) Any suggestions? Thanks.


C.


----------



## FilmMixer

^^^ Exact same problem with the Apple TV... When it stats up, you see the logo, but then it goes away... works fine over component...


----------



## Catdaddy67

I was reading the AVM50 manual just now, with special attention to the video features, and was reading the "scaling" portion. I just want to be completely certain of this, and not assume anything, but the AVM50 and D2 do the needed "vertical stretch" for a 2.35 setup, correct?


My reading of all of the fixed scaling options lead me to believe that the Anthems offer horizontal stretching, and not the vertical stretch. Am I wrong?


I understand that the zoom scaling option would allow for it, but supposedly at the cost of image quality as the gennum doesnt scale the image .. rather it is just literally stretched after processing.


Am I understanding these correctly?


----------



## Catdaddy67

Ok, I read back up to "crop" again and I think you can crop the 2.35 image which will process it to do the stretch? Is that correct, now?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, I read back up to "crop" again and I think you can crop the 2.35 image which will process it to do the stretch? Is that correct, now?



Yes. Read the "fun with custom cropping and scaling" links in the first post of this thread for more info. You crop down to the real image inside the incoming video and then scale that to your output resolution either by stretching it (anamorphic or panoramic) or by padding it (letter/pillar box) to account for any difference in shape.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^ Exact same problem with the Apple TV... When it stats up, you see the logo, but then it goes away... works fine over component...



There are reports on the Apple forums of Apple TV HDMI having problems with Hitachi and Sharp TVs. Sounds like its HDMI is not exactly plug and play.


The Apple knowledge base article offers no real help. it suggests unplugging the HDMI and plugging it back in again. It also suggests forcing a different video mode for output (presumably just a different resolution) by pressing a combo of buttons on the remote.

--Bob


----------



## Johnla




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FYI, I have my D2 in one rack and the PS3 in another rack. The 2 racks are adjacent to each other. The two of them, especially the PS3, can heat up a rack if you don't have good ventilation. I have a fan above the D2 that automatically turns on if the temperatue reaches 80 F, then keeps going until the temperature goes back down (to I believe 75F). So, it's not always on all the time. It's also very quiet. I can't hear it from where I sit (about 12 feet away from the fan), even if my projector is off. My fan is a Middle Atlantic fan, which works great for rack mounted systems. They have some good fans:
> 
> http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/cooling/uqfp.htm
> 
> 
> These are interesting as well:
> 
> http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac...l.htm#compcool
> 
> 
> However, since these fans are made for the audiophile market, they aren't cheap. A "do-it-yourself" fan system using quiet fans designed for computers (such as one mentioned above) would be much cheaper.



The Middle Atlantic 4 fan panels are nice, but at $200-$300+ depending upon which version you get, but like you say, they are also costly. Another option for rackmount fan panels is triktags. They have two versions, one with set of 3 fixed speed fans for $70, and another with 3 Vantec thermostatically controlled variable speed fans for $140.

http://www.triktags.com/html/fan_vent_panels.html 


Also another nice cooling option, at a somewhat affordable price. Is the Parasound Zbreeze. http://www.gspr.com/parasound/zbreeze.html 


And Audio Advisor has them available in refurbished, for just under $170


----------



## Catdaddy67




> Quote:
> Yes. Read the "fun with custom cropping and scaling" links in the first post of this thread for more info. You crop down to the real image inside the incoming video and then scale that to your output resolution either by stretching it (anamorphic or panoramic) or by padding it (letter/pillar box) to account for any difference in shape.



Will do! Man, was worried there JUST for a sec!


----------



## Randall Morton

I'm having trouble getting my JVC DVHS deck to pass video through the D2. I get a macrovision error. Sound is no problem, but I get a blinking blue screen on the video. With the tape stopped the screen shows the JVC onscreen display.


I am connecting to the D2 with component and back out to the Dwin box with component. If I bypass the D2 and go directly to my Dwin box all is OK. I'm trying to output 720P from the D2. I also tried to take the component out the HDMI but got the same error.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm having trouble getting my JVC DVHS deck to pass video through the D2. I get a macrovision error. Sound is no problem, but I get a blinking blue screen on the video. With the tape stopped the screen shows the JVC onscreen display.
> 
> 
> I am connecting to the D2 with component and back out to the Dwin box with component. If I bypass the D2 and go directly to my Dwin box all is OK. I'm trying to output 720P from the D2. I also tried to take the component out the HDMI but got the same error.



For Component output from the D2 you will need to set the video output to 480p.


Read Section 2.1 of the D2 owner's manual. Macrovision protected Component input is restricted to 480p Component output.


HDMI output at 720p, on the other hand, SHOULD work if you are connected to an HDCP (copy protection) compliant TV.


Verify that the HDMI output of the D2 is working as expected to your TV at 720p using the D2's own, internally generated video -- the Setup menu and the test patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu -- and then try your Macrovision protected Component video input again.


======================================


EDITED TO ADD: Also be sure, when you switch to HDMI output, to change Setup / Video Output / Preferred to "HDMI".

--Bob


----------



## lazarus28

I don't suppose that anybody's found a workaround for the newly introduced HDMI sound bug yet, have they? After my update yesterday, my ability to sync the XA2 and D2 has gone kaputski. Sometimes the video will sync, but never the audio. The D2 acts like it is getting no sound. Auto Dig is set 'no' and the input is set for HDMI as well.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I installed 1.11g and couldn't get my XA2 to work AT all with it via HDMI. Never recognizes the D2 so it never outputs anything via HDMI. If I got back to e it works just fine.



6 No's, 1 Yes on XA2 HDMI Audio & 11g. Levesque continues to live a physics defying charmed life







There is a rev h recently out so I'll have to try it.


Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lazarus28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't suppose that anybody's found a workaround for the newly introduced HDMI sound bug yet, have they? After my update yesterday, my ability to sync the XA2 and D2 has gone kaputski. Sometimes the video will sync, but never the audio. The D2 acts like it is getting no sound. Auto Dig is set 'no' and the input is set for HDMI as well.



Not yet. Revert to V1.11e or earlier if you have it.


Anthem tech support has started distributing test software V1.11h, and that may have a fix for this. No confirmation of that yet though.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not yet. Revert to V1.11e or earlier if you have it.
> 
> 
> Anthem tech support has started distributing test software V1.11h, and that may have a fix for this. No confirmation of that yet though.
> 
> --Bob



How does Anthem go about distributing new test software? Do you have to request it via email?


----------



## lazarus28

Are people having the same issues the Tosh A1? Mine is being lent out to a buddy right now. Wonder if I should trade him until the issue gets resolved?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lazarus28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are people having the same issues the Tosh A1? Mine is being lent out to a buddy right now. Wonder if I should trade him until the issue gets resolved?



HD-A1 works perfectly with STANDARD FW 1.11


Only the X2 needs something new.


----------



## lazarus28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not yet. Revert to V1.11e or earlier if you have it.
> 
> 
> Anthem tech support has started distributing test software V1.11h, and that may have a fix for this. No confirmation of that yet though.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the quick reply, Bob!


How does one get version E and do you know if 1.11E will return me to the 1080i syc problems I had from my cable box with 1.11?


----------



## lazarus28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HD-A1 works perfectly with STANDARD FW 1.11
> 
> 
> Only the X2 needs something new.



Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lazarus28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply, Bob!
> 
> 
> How does one get version E and do you know if 1.11E will return me to the 1080i syc problems I had from my cable box with 1.11?



If you don't already have it, you will need to get it from Anthem tech support.


Returning to the original V1.11 is likely to return your 1080i problem.


If I were in your shoes, I'd wait until Monday and then talk to Anthem tech support about whether V1.11e or V1.11h is a better choice for you at this point.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How does Anthem go about distributing new test software? Do you have to request it via email?



They send it out by email to folks who have been in touch with them (phone or email) regarding problems, and also to folks who they've built a relationship with for field testing.


Anthem, quite correctly, wants to keep track of who is getting which software so that they can draw conclusions from that as to whether a given version is causing more or less problems.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

I tried the HDMI output first and decided to then try the component output. Neither will output anything unless the deck is set to output 480i. The other settings for the deck output are 720to1080 and no conv. I'll check with Nick Monday. I think it must be a copy protection handshake issue.


How do I get to the D2 internally generated video? Thanks


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 6 No's, 1 Yes on XA2 HDMI Audio & 11g. Levesque continues to live a physics defying charmed life
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a rev h recently out so I'll have to try it.










I don't know why 1.11g was working for me with the XA2, but 1.11h was terrible yesterday evening with my Pioneer BDP-HD1. I didn't get 1080p60 in the Pio menu anymore, and my D2 is reporting a DVI connection!







So no sound and a "DVI" picture with the Pio and 1.11h, with alot of green and pink screens.


So I'm back to 1.11e for a couple of days... No more living in a physics defying charmed life for me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do I get to the D2 internally generated video? Thanks



Check out the video calibration for non-ISF techs link in the first post of this thread for more details.


Simply put, if you select a D2 input that has no incoming video the D2 will generate an all blue screen. If you go to the Setup menu, the D2 will generate that. If you go to the Video Source Adjust menu, and in particular its test Patterns, the D2 will generate those. All of that generated video is independent of any source device.


Get all that working first over your HDMI connection to the display and then deal with any source issues.


--------------------------------------------------------------


I hadn't noticed that you were talking about a *D*VHS deck. If the deck is putting Macrovision on its 720p/1080i Component outputs you may not be able to use those with the D2, or if so, you may only be able to do it as "pass through" -- out the Zone 2 Component output for example where Zone 2 is set to be the UNprocessed version of the Main path Component input.


This is an unusual enough situation that you probably should discuss it with Nick. He may know of a better workaround for you.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Check out the video calibration for non-ISF techs link in the first post of this thread for more details.
> 
> 
> Simply put, if you select a D2 input that has no incoming video the D2 will generate an all blue screen. If you go to the Setup menu, the D2 will generate that. If you go to the Video Source Adjust menu, and in particular its test Patterns, the D2 will generate those. All of that generated video is independent of any source device.
> 
> 
> Get all that working first over your HDMI connection to the display and then deal with any source issues.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I hadn't noticed that you were talking about a *D*VHS deck. If the deck is putting Macrovision on its 720p/1080i Component outputs you may not be able to use those with the D2, or if so, you may only be able to do it as "pass through" -- out the Zone 2 Component output for example where Zone 2 is set to be the UNprocessed version of the Main path Component input.
> 
> 
> This is an unusual enough situation that you probably should discuss it with Nick. He may know of a better workaround for you.
> 
> --Bob



I've already tested all the screens you mention. I think you are right and I will end up having to do the pass through or go directly to one of the projector inputs. I may try my 30K JVC deck and see if it does the same thing.


----------



## flash2003

Hi all,


This afternoon, I auditioned the AVM-50 and the D1 back-to-back at my local dealer, and I thought that anyone reading this who might be trying to decide between these two components might benefit from my experience.


This was the setup:

- Simaudio Moon Orbiter DVD player

- Simaudio Moon Aurora Power Amp

- A set of Dynaudio Focus speakers

(cables were Cardas and Canare)


The AVM-50 was really very good, but the D1 was clearly superior in the above setup, with the ability to resolve more detail, provide better dynamics, and generate a bigger soundstage. At the beginning of "The Lord of the Rings - The Fellowship of the Ring," Galadriel's prologue was absolutely captivating through the D1.  It was helpful to me to be able to audition the equipment with similar components to those in my home setup.


I have a few questions that someone here might be able to answer:


One thing that I did notice about both of the processors is that they got quite warm during operation, which surprised me because they were not enclosed in a cabinet (they were very warm to the touch on the top right - power supply perhaps?). Is this normal?


I have the opportunity to purchase the D1 demo at a very good price and I was wondering if anyone has been able to get their hands on a silver faceplate for the D1/D2 (the demo is black and I would prefer silver). If so, where did you find it?


Thanks in advance,


Flash


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Flash,

It is normal for the D1 and D2 to get quite warm over the power supply -- the side of the chassis where the power cord plugs in. The thermal engineering of the D1 and D2 take this into account, and as long as there is adequate space around them they will dissipate the heat.


It is less common to hear that the AVM-50 gets warm.


By the way, were you listening to a D1 (no HDMI and no video processing) or to a D2 (includes HDMI for audio and video and extensive video processing)? The audio is the same for both, but just curious.


I've no info on face plate swap-outs.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've already tested all the screens you mention. I think you are right and I will end up having to do the pass through or go directly to one of the projector inputs. I may try my 30K JVC deck and see if it does the same thing.



I believe you can also bypass the scaler using the Video Source Adjust / Scale Out menu. But I don't really know how that works with respect to the Macrovision restriction.

--Bob


----------



## flash2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Flash,
> 
> It is normal for the D1 and D2 to get quite warm over the power supply -- the side of the chassis where the power cord plugs in. The thermal engineering of the D1 and D2 take this into account, and as long as there is adequate space around them they will dissipate the heat.
> 
> 
> It is less common to hear that the AVM-50 gets warm.
> 
> 
> By the way, were you listening to a D1 (no HDMI and no video processing) or to a D2 (includes HDMI for audio and video and extensive video processing)? The audio is the same for both, but just curious.
> 
> 
> I've no info on face plate swap-outs.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the info on heat dissipation with these units. I was listening to a D1 connected to the Orbiter via S/PDIF connection. I was really surprised at just how big the difference was in sound quality between the AVM-50 and the D1. Don't get me wrong -- the AVM-50 sounded wonderful, but the D1 was notably better. I guess I know which one I am going to buy.







I'm quite comfortable buying a D1 as I don't need D2 video processing right now and I can always upgrade to a D1-HD later on.


Flash


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lazarus28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't suppose that anybody's found a workaround for the newly introduced HDMI sound bug yet, have they? After my update yesterday, my ability to sync the XA2 and D2 has gone kaputski. Sometimes the video will sync, but never the audio. The D2 acts like it is getting no sound. Auto Dig is set 'no' and the input is set for HDMI as well.



Let's make that 7:1


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can't get the Apple TV to sync via HDMI--I see a momentary flash of video, followed by a black screen. I've tried with and without the HDMI repeater setting in the set-up menu. It works fine via component and optical. I'm using software version 1.11d. No problems with other components (SA 8300HD, Tosh HD DVD, PS3, Marantz 7600) Any suggestions? Thanks.
> 
> 
> C.



Not saying this is a good way, but have you tried component. I hooped up Apple TV on my non-Anthem family room via components & I'm pretty amazed by this little box.


----------



## drsimnal

Drove 1.5 hours each way to the nearest dealer (out of state!







) to see a D2. Of course I had to have it. I knew I'd buy it if I went, lol. The B&M dealer called and was told about 3 week wait for shipping. Man, I can't wait!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drsimnal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Drove 1.5 hours each way to the nearest dealer (out of state!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) to see a D2. Of course I had to have it. I knew I'd buy it if I went, lol. The B&M dealer called and was told about 3 week wait for shipping. Man, I can't wait!



It's traditional to have to suffer for your art.


(grin!)


And welcome to the club!

--Bob


----------



## JeffDL

I think e is the magic code here. Both PS3 blu-ray and XA2 are running HDMI uncompressed 5.1 with no issue. Pure bliss!!! Even the HD cable is running fine in 1080i.


----------



## JeffDL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drsimnal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Drove 1.5 hours each way to the nearest dealer (out of state!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) to see a D2. Of course I had to have it. I knew I'd buy it if I went, lol. The B&M dealer called and was told about 3 week wait for shipping. Man, I can't wait!



I almost wish my dealer was that far away. I can't stay out of the damn place. When I got the D2 about 2 weeks now, I swore my Rotel 1095 would be fine and I could wait until I started looking for a new amp. Well of course yesterday on the way home from work I stooped by to pick up the receipt for my XA2 (5 free HD-DVD's). I left with the receipt I went to pick up and a lot less money as I ordered a P5. Only another month or so before the new Paradigm Signatures are out so I've got very little time to build up some more cash. Beryllium will never sound better.


----------



## shah993

I drove 2 hrs to Montreal from the US to get it!!!!It is worth it.


----------



## aus

What's the price in Canada? Was it cheaper there?


----------



## ddimberio

What music mode do you all listen to CD's on with the Anthem D2/AVM? I currently listened to 2-channel, but I have recently rounded out my system with quality side speakers, and LCR's. My rears are still in-walls (lesser quality) and would prefer to use them "less", or not at all, when it comes to music. Just curious. Thanks!


----------



## shah993




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What's the price in Canada? Was it cheaper there?



No it is about the same as the US but that is the nearest big town where I could get them.Only problem every time it needs service I have to drag it thru customs fortunately it is only a small border with no wait.


----------



## 3no

More problems.


Friday everything was working well, small fan on the D2 kept even the PS3 input rock solid. Turned it on Saturday evening to watch Casino Royale on BD (didn't touch *anything* since Friday) and the HDMI1 input was dead. Really dead. Swapped cables to verify that all sources worked fine into the other 3 HDMI inputs and all sources would not work into the HDMI1 input (swapping cables as well). Power cycling didn't help. Status shows no video input, no audio input. Changed the PS3 to HDMI4 (unused until then) and watched the movie.


Fired it up again this morning, no change. Saved settings with the settings and livevideosettings editors, reinstalled 1.11g firmware, did a Reload Factory Defaults and HDMI1 came back. (I guess I should have done one of those at a time.)


Restored settings, still OK. Restored video settings and lost all video except the mini-OSD at the bottom of the screen. Reloaded factory defaults again, restored settings, manually input my video settings (just crop settings for the 2.35 overlays). Seems to be working well now.


One strange thing, though, since the restore: The display (both OSD and front panel) where it is supposed to show the audio input format now shows "Zzznn" where nn is a number in the high teens thru twenties. Zzz is literally 3 z's.


I'll play with it some more (maybe go thru the whole firmware/factory settings cycle again) to see if I can get rid of the Zzznn's.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What music mode do you all listen to CD's on with the Anthem D2/AVM? I currently listened to 2-channel, but I have recently rounded out my system with quality side speakers, and LCR's. My rears are still in-walls (lesser quality) and would prefer to use them "less", or not at all, when it comes to music. Just curious. Thanks!



It's all personal preference. There's no "right" way.


I happen to prefer Anthem-Logic Music. It's a non-aggressive surround mode (not much sent to the surround speakers) which also doesn't use the center channel speaker to keep from disturbing the front sound stage.


If I'm moving around the room and don't want to be distracted when I'm too close to a surround speaker, I just use Stereo.


----------------------------------------------


Remember you can set up a MUSIC speaker configuration -- without your rear speakers for example -- and set any input to use that in preference to the normal CINEMA config.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> More problems.
> 
> 
> Friday everything was working well, small fan on the D2 kept even the PS3 input rock solid. Turned it on Saturday evening to watch Casino Royale on BD (didn't touch *anything* since Friday) and the HDMI1 input was dead. Really dead. Swapped cables to verify that all sources worked fine into the other 3 HDMI inputs and all sources would not work into the HDMI1 input (swapping cables as well). Power cycling didn't help. Status shows no video input, no audio input. Changed the PS3 to HDMI4 (unused until then) and watched the movie.
> 
> 
> Fired it up again this morning, no change. Saved settings with the settings and livevideosettings editors, reinstalled 1.11g firmware, did a Reload Factory Defaults and HDMI1 came back. (I guess I should have done one of those at a time.)
> 
> 
> Restored settings, still OK. Restored video settings and lost all video except the mini-OSD at the bottom of the screen. Reloaded factory defaults again, restored settings, manually input my video settings (just crop settings for the 2.35 overlays). Seems to be working well now.
> 
> 
> One strange thing, though, since the restore: The display (both OSD and front panel) where it is supposed to show the audio input format now shows "Zzznn" where nn is a number in the high teens thru twenties. Zzz is literally 3 z's.
> 
> 
> I'll play with it some more (maybe go thru the whole firmware/factory settings cycle again) to see if I can get rid of the Zzznn's.



The "Zzznn" display means the "Sleep Timer" is active. See section 4.12 of the owner's manual.


If you had accidentally set the Sleep Timer while watching on HDMI1, and the unit powered off because of that, it is possible that that's what screwed up HDMI1 for you -- although of course it is not supposed to do that.


I don't recall what reloading Factory Defaults is supposed to do with respect to the Timers.


I believe saving and restoring user settings is supposed to maintain the various on/off time of day timers, but I'd be surprised if it also maintained the sleep timer.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> More problems.
> 
> 
> One strange thing, though, since the restore: The display (both OSD and front panel) where it is supposed to show the audio input format now shows "Zzznn" where nn is a number in the high teens thru twenties. Zzz is literally 3 z's.
> 
> 
> I'll play with it some more (maybe go thru the whole firmware/factory settings cycle again) to see if I can get rid of the Zzznn's.



Zzznn is the sleep timer countdown where nn indicates the number of minutes remaining before the unit will turn off. Press the sleep button on your remote repeatedly until you see MAIN SLEEP MODE Disabled.


Jim


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The "Zzznn" display means the "Sleep Timer" is active. See section 4.12 of the owner's manual.
> 
> 
> If you had accidentally set the Sleep Timer while watching on HDMI1, and the unit powered off because of that, it is possible that that's what screwed up HDMI1 for you -- although of course it is not supposed to do that.
> 
> 
> I don't recall what reloading Factory Defaults is supposed to do with respect to the Timers.
> 
> 
> I believe saving and restoring user settings is supposed to maintain the various on/off time of day timers, but I'd be surprised if it also maintained the sleep timer.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. The Zzznn is gone. I did accidentally push the sleep button on the remote, while fumbling for the up arrow in the dark. I distinctly recall hitting it as I briefly thought at the time "I wonder what that button is/did". That occurred today, after the reload factory defaults. As the HDMI1 lockup occured last night, and the Zzznn display only showed up today after the reload factory defaults had restored HDMI1 functionality, the sleep timer was not the cause of the lockup.


I'm going to lay this one on the PS3 HDMI issue set, and trust that when Anthem (or Sony) fix the basic problem they will pick up this one with it.


----------



## rudolpht

Here's my initial 11h testing. BDP works fine (but I'm doing 1080p/60 not 24). Blue screen on XA-2. Bukpas. Nada. Ziltch.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's my initial 11h testing. *BDP works fine* (but I'm doing 1080p/60 not 24).










Are you doing this intentionnally?







With 1.11h, the BDP-HD1 didn't work at all for me, not even in 1080p60. The D2 is reporting: *DVI* connection, 1080p (no p24 or p60, just 1080p), no sound input. And the Pioneer BDP doesn't even have "1080p60" or "Direct" choices anymore when I press Output format on the remote... only "1080p".


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you doing this intentionnally?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With 1.11h, the BDP-HD1 didn't work at all for me, not even in 1080p60. The D2 is reporting: *DVI* connection, 1080p (no p24 or p60, just 1080p), no sound input. And the Pioneer BDP doesn't even have "1080p60" or "Direct" choices anymore when I press Output format on the remote... only "1080p".



It sounds like your back and forth FW switching is LEAVING

CRAP behind and now cleaning everything up between FW

installs.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It sounds like your back and forth FW switching is LEAVING
> 
> CRAP behind and now cleaning everything up between FW
> 
> installs.



I know. I was just kidding, since Rudolpht is always saying I'm the only one with 1.11g and HD-XA2 working together.










I will try 1.11h later today again with a cleaner install.


----------



## akopperl

What are the proper audio settings for a PS3 connected to the AVM-50? I went and setup the audio manually and checked all 2 channel and 5.1 channel outputs up to and including 192kHz ( I have a 5.1 setup). I also selected DTS and Dolby Digital.


When I played back a SACD disc - my Anthem said that it was receiving and outputting 6 channels at 48Khz - but the sound was all muffled. That didn't make me feel good considering the PS3 warns you that you can damage your speakers if you make the wrong selections. I then set the PS3 audio to Automatic and only sampling rates up to 96khz were available. When I played back the same disc it worked fine, but the sampling rate was now 88.2 KHz. I thought most SACDs were recorded at 96kHz or 48kHz.


I also thought that the AVM-50 was compatible with 192 KHz for Blu Ray and HD DVD.


Any help understanding the PS3 audio settings for the AVM-50 would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you doing this intentionnally?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With 1.11h, the BDP-HD1 didn't work at all for me, not even in 1080p60. The D2 is reporting: *DVI* connection, 1080p (no p24 or p60, just 1080p), no sound input. And the Pioneer BDP doesn't even have "1080p60" or "Direct" choices anymore when I press Output format on the remote... only "1080p".



I think we are in some bizzaro world alternate dimension. NOt only did it work fine but it looked like SD upscaling picture improved










Well I'm back to 11e so I can get the XA2 HDMI audio. (The alternate dimension from when you can get it in 11g







)


----------



## AnthemAVM

I am getting the XA2 on Monday, and was going to order the HDMI cable, is this all the I will need to hook it up to the D2, or will I need some other cables?


Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am getting the XA2 on Monday, and was going to order the HDMI cable, is this all the I will need to hook it up to the D2, or will I need some other cables?
> 
> 
> Thanks



How about lots or Prayers?










I think folks are having a problem with the XA2 and D2.


It think it has something to do with the XA2 being HDMI

v1.3 and the D2 being v1.1.


Anthem is working on the problem.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am getting the XA2 on Monday, and was going to order the HDMI cable, is this all the I will need to hook it up to the D2, or will I need some other cables?
> 
> 
> Thanks



As long as you are at Production version 11 or no later than 11e beta you should be OK with just the one cable.


Tim


EDIT: and prayers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As long as you are at Production version 11 or no later than 11e beta you should be OK with just the one cable.
> 
> 
> Tim
> 
> 
> EDIT: and prayers



At least the Canadian Conspiracy is giving equal time to Blu-Ray owners (PS3)....

--Bob


----------



## lazarus28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When I played back a SACD disc - my Anthem said that it was receiving and outputting 6 channels at 48Khz - but the sound was all muffled. That didn't make me feel good considering the PS3 warns you that you can damage your speakers if you make the wrong selections. I then set the PS3 audio to Automatic and only sampling rates up to 96khz were available. When I played back the same disc it worked fine, but the sampling rate was now 88.2 KHz. I thought most SACDs were recorded at 96kHz or 48kHz.



You're thinking of PCM recordings. SACD uses DSD which is stored on the disc as 1-bit/2.8Mhz. The closest PCM eqivalent (according to what I've read, mind you) would be about 20/192. The D2 doesn't process DSD, so the PS3 must output it via PCM.


----------



## akopperl




> Quote:
> You're thinking of PCM recordings. SACD uses DSD which is stored on the disc as 1-bit/2.8Mhz. The closest PCM eqivalent (according to what I've read, mind you) would be about 20/192. The D2 doesn't process DSD, so the PS3 must output it via PCM.



I think I understand what you are saying regarding SACD - therefore I assume that 88.2 kHz is ok. However, should the PS3 be able to output 176 kHz and 192 kHz to the AVM-50? I am assuming that there are Blu Ray discs that either have or will have soundtracks at 192 kHz.


I am still a little confused why the SACD disc did not play back properly when I set the audio settings on the PS3 manually - but they worked fine set to automatic. When I had manual settings, the PS3 played back the disc at 48 kHz which did not work (although that is one of the formats selected by the PS3 when it is set to automatic). When I switched to automatic, the disc played back fine at 88.2 kHz. I just want to get the optimum settings to allow playback of SACD, Blu Ray and CD.


Thanks


----------



## audiman

I see many D1 for sale at audiogon and the sellers are selling to upgrade to the D2.


Why dont they just the D1 back to anthem for upgrading ? is there a difference between an upgraded D1 and a brand new D2 ?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I see many D1 for sale at audiogon and the sellers are selling to upgrade to the D2.
> 
> 
> Why dont they just the D1 back to anthem for upgrading ? is there a difference between an upgraded D1 and a brand new D2 ?



Just two decals missing from the front panel.


----------



## dsm363

Anyone tried the D2 with the AppleTV that just came out? Over HDMI, I can't get a picture or sound through the D2. I'm pretty sure it's not the HDMI cable or the AppleTV as I can use the AppleTV with the HDMI cable plugged directly into my TV. I tried all the HDMI ports on the D2 as well. Any ideas? Thanks.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think I understand what you are saying regarding SACD - therefore I assume that 88.2 kHz is ok. However, should the PS3 be able to output 176 kHz and 192 kHz to the AVM-50? I am assuming that there are Blu Ray discs that either have or will have soundtracks at 192 kHz.
> 
> 
> I am still a little confused why the SACD disc did not play back properly when I set the audio settings on the PS3 manually - but they worked fine set to automatic. When I had manual settings, the PS3 played back the disc at 48 kHz which did not work (although that is one of the formats selected by the PS3 when it is set to automatic). When I switched to automatic, the disc played back fine at 88.2 kHz. I just want to get the optimum settings to allow playback of SACD, Blu Ray and CD.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I'd be very surprised if we see 192Khz soundtracks. If we are lucky we may see 24/96 or I hear talk about 20/48.


The sampling rate of SACD is 2.8224 *M*Hz at one bit. If you divide that by 32 you will get 88.2 Khz. Not sure why they don't convert to 176.4Khz. Probably a matter of diminishing return versus hardware requirements. Note that 88.2Khz is also exactly twice the sampling rate of normal redbook CDs. I'll have to check my PS3 settings but I always got 88.2Khz on SACDs.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsm363* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone tried the D2 with the AppleTV that just came out? Over HDMI, I can't get a picture or sound through the D2. I'm pretty sure it's not the HDMI cable or the AppleTV as I can use the AppleTV with the HDMI cable plugged directly into my TV. I tried all the HDMI ports on the D2 as well. Any ideas? Thanks.



Posts 5202 & Posts 5320 above. You are not alone. Would suggest that as the Apple TV is basically a computer and there are issues with comps into the Anthem, may be related. Works fine over component, and giving existing video content isn't anywhere near 1080p or any HD for that matter, that may be good enough (for now) but that's a subjective statement on my part (not dissimilar from the Hank Policy on DVRs







). Report it to Anthem tech support.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flash2003* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info on heat dissipation with these units. I was listening to a D1 connected to the Orbiter via S/PDIF connection. I was really surprised at just how big the difference was in sound quality between the AVM-50 and the D1. Don't get me wrong -- the AVM-50 sounded wonderful, but the D1 was notably better. I guess I know which one I am going to buy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm quite comfortable buying a D1 as I don't need D2 video processing right now and I can always upgrade to a D1-HD later on.
> 
> 
> Flash




Yes the difference is quite noticeable you will enjoy the D1.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No it is about the same as the US but that is the nearest big town where I could get them.Only problem every time it needs service I have to drag it thru customs fortunately it is only a small border with no wait.



If you ever need services...


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I see many D1 for sale at audiogon and the sellers are selling to upgrade to the D2.
> 
> 
> Why dont they just the D1 back to anthem for upgrading ? is there a difference between an upgraded D1 and a brand new D2 ?



The resale value of the D1 is good and if you find a good deal on a D2 it could become more interesting to pay a bit more for a brand new unit full guaranty than going through the upgrade process.


----------



## shah993




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you ever need services...



Correct it has not broken down so far!.When it first came out I could not get the HDMI to work with my Sony DVD changer and so I took it back to my dealer.Only later did we find out about the software upgrade.By the way I have yet to do it as I am waiting for the final version but works great with component.I had a proceed prepro before and there is much better sound than that and ofcourse the video is better.


----------



## Unclejeff

Wishful Thinkers: Let's say you are in no hurry to buy a D2.


Could you wait until HDMI 1.3(with the new ports)?


Would you wait until the new upgrade with the microphone?


This, of course, you are in no hurry.....?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wishful Thinkers: Let's say you are in no hurry to buy a D2.
> 
> 
> Could you wait until HDMI 1.3(with the new ports)?
> 
> 
> Would you wait until the new upgrade with the microphone?
> 
> 
> This, of course, you are in no hurry.....?



Wouldn't this be the D3 (with HDMI 1.3)?


Why would anyone wait for HDMI 1.3 if they actually had the coin to purchase it now? What exactly is HDMI 1.3 going to give you that would be worth the wait?


HDMI 1.3 is a red herring as far as I can tell.


And why would you want to miss out on all the hopping up and down?


----------



## sfield

I haven't tried this myself, but it's likely the same EDID problem which is impacting HTPC machines connected to the D2. I fixed this in my case by putting a Gefen DVI detective between the HTPC and the D2.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsm363* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone tried the D2 with the AppleTV that just came out? Over HDMI, I can't get a picture or sound through the D2. I'm pretty sure it's not the HDMI cable or the AppleTV as I can use the AppleTV with the HDMI cable plugged directly into my TV. I tried all the HDMI ports on the D2 as well. Any ideas? Thanks.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wishful Thinkers: Let's say you are in no hurry to buy a D2.
> 
> Could you wait until HDMI 1.3(with the new ports)?



Anthem already answered that here. A must read!









http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...stions_PDS.pdf


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I haven't tried this myself, but it's likely the same EDID problem which is impacting HTPC machines connected to the D2. I fixed this in my case by putting a Gefen DVI detective between the HTPC and the D2.



DVI Detective fixed my EDID problem as well (6600GT).


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wishful Thinkers: Let's say you are in no hurry to buy a D2.
> 
> 
> Could you wait until HDMI 1.3(with the new ports)?
> 
> 
> Would you wait until the new upgrade with the microphone?
> 
> 
> This, of course, you are in no hurry.....?



If you do a search on this thread you will easily realize that HDMI 1.3 will not add anything useful to our audio/video setup. HDMI 1.3 is a marketing blurb created to sell more equipment. Ands it does work look at all the thread asking for HDMI 1.3 equipments.


The answer is do not wait for HDMI13. Since it is useless.


When the RoomEQ will be available, you will be able to get the upgrade on the D2. Again no need to wait here.


----------



## Kirkland

Anyone here ever upgraded from the D1 to the D2 VIA anthem and their upgrade offer ?


Is this a recommended thing to do or should i buy a brand new D2 ?


I can have a deal on a used D1 and with the upgrade, it should come to 5000$.


How long does it take for anthem to perform the upgrade right now ?


How much is a brand new D2 ?


Thx.


----------



## JeffDL

Functionally the D1-HD as it's called after the upgrade is supposed to be exactly the same as a D2. I believe retail for the D2 is $6700.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kirkland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone here ever upgraded from the D1 to the D2 VIA anthem and their upgrade offer ?
> 
> 
> Is this a recommended thing to do or should i buy a brand new D2 ?
> 
> 
> I can have a deal on a used D1 and with the upgrade, it should come to 5000$.
> 
> 
> How long does it take for anthem to perform the upgrade right now ?
> 
> 
> How much is a brand new D2 ?
> 
> 
> Thx.



A new D2 lists for around $7K. Of course that comes with a full, new product warranty. Any remaining Canadian/USA warranty on the used D1 does NOT transfer to a new owner unless the used purchase deal is done through an authorized Anthem dealer.


There is no difference in features or performance between a D2 and an upgraded D1 (known as a D1-HD).


Anthem quotes a 3 week turnaround for US customers (due to delays crossing the border twice). You may have to wait for an RMA# before you send the D1 in. I believe they don't actually give you the RMA# until they have an open slot in manufacturing. Despite that, the very few early reports we have here are of it taking more like 5 weeks from the day you ship it out to Anthem.


Except for that, there have been no reported surprises. The D1-HD functions, as expected, just like a D2.

--Bob


----------



## JeffDL

I forgot to mention how much I LOVE my D2 and have started to question how I was able to live with out it for so long. Damn Rotel was holding me down.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I forgot to mention how much I LOVE my D2 and have started to question how I was able to live with out it for so long. Damn Rotel was holding me down.



I believe you need one of these:










--Bob


----------



## JeffDL

I have been going through home theater or home audio equipment for probably 15 years now and this is really the first product that actually blew me away. While I did have some issues out of the box everything is resolved and I have settled into fine tuning mode.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been going through home theater or home audio equipment for probably 15 years now and this is really the first product that actually blew me away. While I did have some issues out of the box everything is resolved and I have settled into fine tuning mode.



Cool and enjoy, this is quite addictive: D


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kirkland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone here ever upgraded from the D1 to the D2 VIA anthem and their upgrade offer ?
> 
> 
> Is this a recommended thing to do or should i buy a brand new D2 ?
> 
> 
> I can have a deal on a used D1 and with the upgrade, it should come to 5000$.
> 
> 
> How long does it take for anthem to perform the upgrade right now ?
> 
> 
> How much is a brand new D2 ?
> 
> 
> Thx.



I gave my D1 to my dealer to send it for the upgrade and it took about 4 weeks, it performs exactly like a D2, a friend of mine has a D2 and there is no functional difference, this thing is great!


----------



## Catdaddy67




> Quote:
> I gave my D1 to my dealer to send it for the upgrade and it took about 4 weeks, it performs exactly like a D2, a friend of mine has a D2 and there is no functional difference, this thing is great!



Wayne has got all the cool toys. Marantz 11s1, Isco III, a D2, and soon an RS1. His wife approves, too. 8)


----------



## brusteraider

I also sent my D1 in for the upgrade and could not be happier . I have had zero issues and have used this thread for help with set up and fine tuning .We are very lucky to have this resource thanks to Bob and others.I would recommend calling or e-mailing Frank at anthem (905)362-0958 or [email protected] and he can answer any Questions you have and if still interested issue an RMA#. They did an excellent job and it was only about a 3 week turn around for me. There is absolute no difference between the D2 and upgraded D1 except for a few logos on the front faceplate.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kirkland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone here ever upgraded from the D1 to the D2 VIA anthem and their upgrade offer ?
> 
> 
> Is this a recommended thing to do or should i buy a brand new D2 ?
> 
> 
> I can have a deal on a used D1 and with the upgrade, it should come to 5000$.
> 
> 
> How long does it take for anthem to perform the upgrade right now ?
> 
> 
> How much is a brand new D2 ?
> 
> 
> Thx.


----------



## Randall Morton

I was using the learning function on the remote today and the remote no longer works. I'm glad the D2 came with 2 remotes.







Is there another way to restore function back to the defaults. I've tried holding the learn button until I get two flashes and then entering 9 8 0. This doesn't work.

Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was using the learning function on the remote today and the remote no longer works. I'm glad the D2 came with 2 remotes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there another way to restore function back to the defaults. I've tried holding the learn button until I get two flashes and then entering 9 8 0. This doesn't work.
> 
> Thanks



Try replacing the batteries (make sure they are in the right way around) and do the restore to defaults again. Your batteries may be weak for some reason.


Also remember that the Anthem is like 3 devices in one, each of which can be controlled by the remote along with all the other devices you tell it about like DVD or TV. Be sure you hit the Main button at the top of the remote to instruct the remote that you want it to control the Anthem Main path device.


If that still doesn't do it for you, and assuming things are working fine with the other remote (which means the IR receivers are working fine in the Anthem), then it sounds like you have a faulty remote. They are electronic devices of course and some small percentage of them will fail. Contact Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

Battery idea was worth a shot, but no dice. Looks like some jumper pins behind the battery cover which I thought might be used for a hard reset but I will call tech support tomorrow. Its really no big deal since I have another and it works fine. Thanks


----------



## 3no

Update from Anthem (Nick) on their lab recreation of heat-related blue screen problems with PS3:

_Conflicting results...


1080p input elevates temperature, which can lead to crashing, but then why is problem only with PS3? Currently investigating with other 1080p sources._


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Update from Anthem (Nick) on their lab recreation of heat-related blue screen problems with PS3:
> 
> _Conflicting results...
> 
> 
> 1080p input elevates temperature, which can lead to crashing, but then why is problem only with PS3? Currently investigating with other 1080p sources._



Possibly because it is version 1.3 HDMI and Sony has

some WHACKY HDMI Driver chips.


Also - remember some people are also having problems

with the Toshiba XA2 - the only other HDMI version 1.3

device shipping.


----------



## JeffDL

No problems with either PS3 or XA2. 11e is the magic code.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Are we talking 1080p/60Hz or 1080p/24Hz?


I suppose it is possible that the problem might only exist with one of those, and also only when transmitted by the HDMI V1.3 driver chips. I believe there's only one source of HDMI V1.3 driver chips right now, so both the PS3 and XA2 are likely using the same chip.


Another guess is that the PS3 is doing something funky in its film mode repeat cadences which is causing the Gennum chip in the Anthem to work extra hard to try and stay in sync.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No problems with either PS3 or XA2. 11e is the magic code.



The work the Gennum chip has to do depends upon output resolution and frame rate as well. So some of the different reports here could be due to different output settings.

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are we talking 1080p/60Hz or 1080p/24Hz?



1080p/60 on my system.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No problems with either PS3 or XA2. 11e is the magic code.



I'll bet that your air inlet temp at the bottom of the D2 is well under 90F. I only experienced the problem when that air temp approached 90F.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1080p/60 on my system.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll bet that your air inlet temp at the bottom of the D2 is well under 90F. I only experienced the problem when that air temp approached 90F.



You do have a VERY HOT







location.


Not nice







for electronic equipment.


All my stuff is rack mounted in an equipment room.


BUT - Both racks have extensive top and bottom

fans. I also feed a special duck off the air conditioning

system to also keep the ambient temperature in the

racks down.


FYI - I have over 20,000 watts of audio amplifiers

in the rack and my rack never comes close to seeing

90 degrees.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You do have a VERY HOT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> location.



I know. I had several problems:


a) As the rack is located in an alcove at the rear of the theater, my original design objective was to minimize noise, so the rack was cooled by passive convection (some equipment had internal fans, but not the rack itself). I've now changed that to forced air cooling with a Panasonic 120cfm inline fan in the attic, pulling air from the (now closed) top of the rack thru a 4" duct.


b) The D2 was located directly above a Motorola DCT3412 DVR, which runs hot and was venting its hot air underneath the inlet of the D2. There was a 3U gap in between with a corresponding vent in front, but apparently not enough airflow to bring fresh air to the D2 to displace the DVR's exhaust. I've now reconfigured my rack to put the DVR above the D2, with a drawer unit underneath the D2 so no equipment below can affect it's air supply. Plus a 2U space/vent both above and below the D2.


c) I've ordered several very quiet 80mm fans to place behind the 2U vent plates above and below the D2 to push fresh air into the rack, just in case the negative pressure from the rack exhaust pulls most of it's make-up air from other vents.


d) When temps reached 80 in Atlanta, I fired up my A/C for the first time since last fall, only to discover that the unit for the 2nd floor was dead (zero freon). Parts just came in and the tech is coming this evening to complete the repairs. In the mean time, temps in the (2nd floor) theater were 80F or above in the evening, meaning the temp rise in the rack was 

e) I've put (and will keep) a low rpm (very quiet) 120mm fan on top of the D2, pulling air from the vent slots in the center of it's top plate.


All this may be overkill, but I don't want more heat problems of any kind, or the less visible problem of reducing the expected life of the components.


Having said all that, Anthem needs to understand their problem with the PS3, as even if I (and others) keep the D2 cool, it's still running on the ragged edge with the PS3 and could experience other (maybe less obvious) related problems.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Still, Anthem may need to tweak their thermal shutdown. It should go into thermal protect mode (with the error message) with sufficient safety margin that the unit does not fail to operate correctly prior to that.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know. I had several problems:



Thanks for the detailed write-up.


Obviously you have to keep working on better air movement.


IT DOES PAY OFF - My equipment rack is 10 Years old.


I have gone through at least three generations of technology.


So far - never a heat problem from any unit. PROPER COOLING

does work. I'm sure you perform better at 70 instead of 90+


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are we talking 1080p/60Hz or 1080p/24Hz?



I don't believe that either the PS3 or the XA2 outputs 1080p/24 (yet).


----------



## Catdaddy67

The D2 should be able to convert 1080p60 to 1080p24, shouldnt it?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 should be able to convert 1080p60 to 1080p24, shouldnt it?




Don't you mean the AVM 50, or have you changed your mind?


----------



## Randall Morton

Ignore, problem solved.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No problems with either PS3 or XA2. 11e is the magic code.



11e makes each work. I think it's coincidental that these are both 1.3 devices and not the main reason, given there is a stable beta release supporting both. With perverse prepositional logic, Levesque's Pio BDP must be HDMI 1.3 because it doesn't work with 11h


----------



## AnthemAVM

Hello,


I am moving some stuff around, and put my Denon 3910 to the D2 with a HDMI cable. All I get is a black screen? Any idea what I don't have set correctly?


I switched HDMI repeater off, and it works.


Thanks


Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 should be able to convert 1080p60 to 1080p24, shouldnt it?



I use 1080p/24 to 1080p/60 through the D2 every day.

No problem at all.


I believe 1080p/60 to 1080p/24 may be a problem Anthem

is working on. I don't know who would want to do that anyway?


----------



## Catdaddy67

Oh no, Im gettin the AVM50 .. but since the processor is the same, just a lot easier to say D2. 8)


My HD1 takes 1080p24. I would. 8)


----------



## 3Dfx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drfranks[/quote* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe 1080p/60 to 1080p/24 may be a problem Anthem
> 
> is working on. I don't know who would want to do that anyway?



I don't know either but it works here...


BDP-HD1 to Anthem via HDMI and out to display via HDMI. Anthem firmware ver 1.11g


1080p/24Hz-->Anthem-->TV @ 720p/60Hz = no audio (frame lock on = no video or audio)


1080p/24Hz-->Anthem -->TV @ 1080p/24Hz = no audio (haven't tried frame lock here)

*1080p/60Hz-->Anthem-->TV @ 1080p/24Hz = audio/video ok*


1080p/60Hz-->Anthem-->TV @ 720p/60Hz = audio/video ok


I need to test the BDP-HD1 directly to the display via HDMI at 1080p/24Hz (Source Direct). If that works then it's likely an Anthem issue.


----------



## drsimnal

In the last 3 weeks, I have bought a new 2 channel amp (so all 5 speakers now amped); an Anthem Statement D2 (still waiting for it), and as of yesterday, a JVC RS-1 to replace my old Benq 8700. My bank account is reeling, especially since I am planning a major bathroom remodel and more landscaping this year! You people are bad for my budget!










I have no HD source other than my E* VIP622. What do most of you have: BD, HD or the combo player from LG? I tried venturing into those forums and barely escaped with my life. It's nasty in there! So, I thought I'd ask what people here use.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drsimnal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In the last 3 weeks, I have bought a new 2 channel amp (so all 5 speakers now amped); an Anthem Statement D2 (still waiting for it), and as of yesterday, a JVC RS-1 to replace my old Benq 8700. My bank account is reeling, especially since I am planning a major bathroom remodel and more landscaping this year! You people are bad for my budget!



Your theater has a bathroom?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drsimnal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In the last 3 weeks, I have bought a new 2 channel amp (so all 5 speakers now amped); an Anthem Statement D2 (still waiting for it), and as of yesterday, a JVC RS-1 to replace my old Benq 8700. My bank account is reeling, especially since I am planning a major bathroom remodel and more landscaping this year! You people are bad for my budget!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no HD source other than my E* VIP622. What do most of you have: BD, HD or the combo player from LG? I tried venturing into those forums and barely escaped with my life. It's nasty in there! So, I thought I'd ask what people here use.



Stay away from the LG - nice idea - but too early to market.

They left out too many things to make it usable. Especially

with the high-quality new gear you just purchased.


The best Blu-Ray player out there is the Pioneer BDP-HD1.

Supply is limited. You have to order one directly from Pioneer
*STORE* in CA to have good availability.


In the HD camp there is only one player - by Toshiba. NONE

of the Toshiba's will do 1080p/24. At this stage - I would hold

off on any HD player. It appears Blu-Ray is winning the content

wars and since none of the HD DVD players do 1080p/24 - why

bother until they catch up with the Pioneer. Maybe by then the

format war will be decided.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Your theater has a bathroom?



Doesn't everyone's?







If I leave the door open I can still see the screen and work the remote







Bothers the guests though


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For anyone who might NOT be following the discussions in the Blu-Ray Player forum here (surely somewhere in the world there must be at least one or two of you), be advised that Blu-Ray is about to undergo the long awaited sea change from "player profile 1.0" to "player profile 1.1" in both players and new disc titles.


This was supposed to happen in June/July but now looks like it will happen as part of the Christmas push.


The upshot is that new titles will start appearing which feature PIP overlay content and audio mixing in the player that will only work with a player that features a fuller implementation of BD-Java and has extra internal memory. The intent is to catch up with the interaction and overlay features of HD-DVD that have been in there from the get go. It's not clear whether or not in-player DTS-HD MA decoding will be on the same track, but that's likely.


There's no need to duplicate all that discussion in this thread, but just be advised that early adopters of Blu-Ray will likely face a decision about replacing players or figuring out how to do a serious upgrade before the year is out.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Doesn't everyone's?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I leave the door open I can still see the screen and work the remote
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bothers the guests though



"Wow! Was that another subwoofer I'm hearing?"

(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> "Wow! Was that another subwoofer I'm hearing?"
> 
> (grin!)
> 
> --Bob



Yeah, but no matter how I EQ it, it still doesn't sound good

















If I get a D2 instead of upgrading to an AVM30-HD then maybe I can wait for the Auto EQ feature....


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah, but no matter how I EQ it, it still doesn't sound good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :eek



Perhaps a Velodyne SMS-1 would help?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1080p/60 on my system.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll bet that your air inlet temp at the bottom of the D2 is well under 90F. I only experienced the problem when that air temp approached 90F.




Gee this is high I am using a full class A tube Amp not far from D2 and I never reach such a temperature.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 should be able to convert 1080p60 to 1080p24, shouldnt it?



The XA2 do not support 24fps. I don't see the value of having the D2 performing this, your RS1 or HD1 should manage this.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drsimnal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In the last 3 weeks, I have bought a new 2 channel amp (so all 5 speakers now amped); an Anthem Statement D2 (still waiting for it), and as of yesterday, a JVC RS-1 to replace my old Benq 8700. My bank account is reeling, especially since I am planning a major bathroom remodel and more landscaping this year! You people are bad for my budget!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no HD source other than my E* VIP622. What do most of you have: BD, HD or the combo player from LG? I tried venturing into those forums and barely escaped with my life. It's nasty in there! So, I thought I'd ask what people here use.




The LG player is not fully compatible to the HD DVD format. Peoples buying that player are running for trouble. Furthermore, if your resources are limited for buying into both formats, the LG player is in fact more expensive than buying a PS3 an A2.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gee this is high I am using a full class A tube Amp not far from D2 and I never reach such a temperature.



But your room temp is probably not 80F+. The HVAC repair tech should be here today to fix that (didn't show up yesterday as scheduled).


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The XA2 do not support 24fps. I don't see the value of having the D2 performing this, your RS1 or HD1 should manage this.



The RS1/HD1 will not convert anything to 24fps. If you input at 24p, then it will display it at some multiple of 24 (I believe 48Hz) without judder.


I bought both of my HD players (XA2 and PS3) on the promise that they would both be upgraded to output 1080p/24. This has not happened yet to either player, and who knows if it ever will.


So, is the D2 capable of doing a proper 1080i/60 or 1080p/60 to 1080p/24 conversion if the input is sourced from 24p material (as in the case of both HD formats)? If so, then I am ecstatic! I didn't think it could do this....



-Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The RS1/HD1 will not convert anything to 24fps. If you input at 24p, then it will display it at some multiple of 24 (I believe 48Hz) without judder.
> 
> 
> I bought both of my HD players (XA2 and PS3) on the promise that they would both be upgraded to output 1080p/24. This has not happened yet to either player, and who knows if it ever will.
> 
> 
> So, is the D2 capable of doing a proper 1080i/60 or 1080p/60 to 1080p/24 conversion if the input is sourced from 24p material (as in the case of both HD formats)? If so, then I am ecstatic! I didn't think it could do this....
> 
> 
> 
> -Dave



Yes, the D2 is supposed to do this. This is not just for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray content, but also for viewing movies in broadcast TV -- which of course are also film-rate content embedded in a faster video-rate stream by the trick of adding replicated fields in the appropriate cadence.


Unfortunately there is a bug in the current D2 software which apparently causes it to lose track of the field repeat cadence. Anthem is aware of this and is working on it. 1080p/24Hz input to 1080p/24Hz ouput is not affected by this bug.


Folks should note that to take advantage of this stuff, it's not just that your TV accepts /24Hz or /48Hz as a valid input frame rate. It must also be that your TV changes its internal refresh rate to a multiple of 24 when doing so. It is the COMBINATION of these two things that allows for judder-free viewing. The vast majority of TVs out there can not do this.

--Bob


----------



## ssbn04

I have a TiVo Series 3 connected via HDMI to an Anthem AVM50. The AVM50 is running Release 1.11g. HDMI repeater is set to off. The TiVo is set to native mode.


Often, when changing TiVo channels or switching from HD content to SD content playback, the video and audio outputs of the AVM50 become muted. Toggling the AVM50 to an unused input, then back to the TiVo input, resolves the issue but, nonetheless, it is annoying and causing a decrease in the dBi (domestic bliss index).


Has anyone else experienced, and hopefully resolved, this issue?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ssbn04* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a TiVo Series 3 connected via HDMI to an Anthem AVM50. The AVM50 is running Release 1.11g. HDMI repeater is set to off. The TiVo is set to native mode.
> 
> 
> Often, when changing TiVo channels or switching from HD content to SD content playback, the video and audio outputs of the AVM50 become muted. Toggling the AVM50 to an unused input, then back to the TiVo input, resolves the issue but, nonetheless, it is annoying and causing a decrease in the dBi (domestic bliss index).
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced, and hopefully resolved, this issue?



You don't need to waste a HDMI input on the D2/AVM50 for any

brand of DVR. Just use Component and Optical. There is no

loss of PQ or SQ and dBi returns.


Better yet - don't set your DVR to native. Set it to 1080i and use

Component.


----------



## lumikola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a PS3 connected to my D2. I've been using it since last December. I don't recall getting the blue screen when using my PS3, although I've seen the blue screen other times (rarely). My D2 has firmware version 1.11. I haven't used the PS3 for games yet (would love to, but unfortunately no time). I've been using the PS3 primarily for Blu-Ray DVDs.
> 
> 
> The only problem that I had with the PS3 and D2 was in the past, my PS3 would hang/freeze while watching a Blu-Ray DVD. It acts as if you hit the pause button. The picture would freeze, and there would be no way to get it moving again. I can still bring up the PS3 menu, but I couldn't get the movie to continue. Someone in a PS3 thread mentioned that he changed the video output from "Automatic" to "RGB" and the freeze problem went away. I did the same change, and I also upgraded to a newer PS3 firmware. Since then, I haven't had any freeze issues. It's not clear if it was the change from "Automatic" to "RGB" or because I upgraded the firmware, or both, but the freeze/hang problem went away. I'm inclined to think that it was the change from "Automatic" to "RGB", since the freeze problem stopped as soon as I changed it, or it just so happened that the 3rd firmware upgrade I got from the PS3 fixed the problem and I applied it at the same time I did the "Automatic" to "RGB" change.... I guess there's an advantage of the PS3 coming out of Europe later... firmware would be in better shape!
> 
> 
> 
> FYI, I have my D2 in one rack and the PS3 in another rack. The 2 racks are adjacent to each other. The two of them, especially the PS3, can heat up a rack if you don't have good ventilation. I have a fan above the D2 that automatically turns on if the temperatue reaches 80 F, then keeps going until the temperature goes back down (to I believe 75F). So, it's not always on all the time. It's also very quiet. I can't hear it from where I sit (about 12 feet away from the fan), even if my projector is off. My fan is a Middle Atlantic fan, which works great for rack mounted systems. They have some good fans:
> 
> http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/cooling/uqfp.htm
> 
> 
> These are interesting as well:
> 
> http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac...l.htm#compcool
> 
> 
> However, since these fans are made for the audiophile market, they aren't cheap. A "do-it-yourself" fan system using quiet fans designed for computers (such as one mentioned above) would be much cheaper.



Thanks randman, very interesting. I tried to change from 'Auto' to 'RGB', but blue screens didn't disappear. HDMI repeater, same thing. Someone recommended version 1.11e, but I try other things first. On Saturday air conditioning will be installed to my home theater room. If it doesn't help with blue screens, at least it confirms that heat is not the reason to this problem.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lumikola* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks randman, very interesting. I tried to change from 'Auto' to 'RGB', but blue screens didn't disappear. HDMI repeater, same thing. Someone recommended version 1.11e, but I try other things first. On Saturday air conditioning will be installed to my home theater room. If it doesn't help with blue screens, at least it confirms that heat is not the reason to this problem.



You might measure the temp of the inlet air to the D2 (directly below the D2 slots), both before and after the A/C is installed. I see blue screens with the PS3 only when the air temp below the D2 approaches 90F.


My A/C is being repaired as I type this. But why do you need A/C in Finland? Just bring in outside air


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, the D2 is supposed to do this. This is not just for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray content, but also for viewing movies in broadcast TV -- which of course are also film-rate content embedded in a faster video-rate stream by the trick of adding replicated fields in the appropriate cadence.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately there is a bug in the current D2 software which apparently causes it to lose track of the field repeat cadence. Anthem is aware of this and is working on it. 1080p/24Hz input to 1080p/24Hz ouput is not affected by this bug.



This is great news, Bob, and quite a pleasant surprise for me!


What is the preferred way of inputting to the D2 if one wants 1080p/24Hz output: 1080i/60 or 1080p/60? Or does it not matter?


The D2 continues to amaze me. What an incredible piece of equipment!


-Dave


p.s. How bad is the bug? Is it something that happens only when inputs are switched or can it happen at anytime? In other words, is it usable at all as is or should I wait for a fix?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is great news, Bob, and quite a pleasant surprise for me!
> 
> 
> What is the preferred way of inputting to the D2 if one wants 1080p/24Hz output: 1080i/60 or 1080p/60? Or does it not matter?
> 
> 
> The D2 continues to amaze me. What an incredible piece of equipment!
> 
> 
> -Dave
> 
> 
> p.s. How bad is the bug? Is it something that happens only when inputs are switched or can it happen at anytime? In other words, is it usable at all as is or should I wait for a fix?



Try it and see. Basically the D2 drops out of film mode to video mode at some edits and then appears to stay in video mode. /24Hz output of video mode doesn't look good (more dramatic stuttering of the image than the judder you were trying to get rid of). But of course most people don't even see normal judder when you tell them it is there unless they have a judder free setup side by side for comparison.


I recommend 1080i/60Hz input for this since 1080p/60Hz input requires the player to do an additional step (the de-interlacing) which might introduce artifacts. But de-interlacing of film-mode stuff is not hard so the odds are that 1080p/60Hz will be no different.


Read the info linked in the first post of this thread on "Frame Lock" to get a little more feel for how all of this is supposed to work.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ssbn04* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a TiVo Series 3 connected via HDMI to an Anthem AVM50. The AVM50 is running Release 1.11g. HDMI repeater is set to off. The TiVo is set to native mode.
> 
> 
> Often, when changing TiVo channels or switching from HD content to SD content playback, the video and audio outputs of the AVM50 become muted. Toggling the AVM50 to an unused input, then back to the TiVo input, resolves the issue but, nonetheless, it is annoying and causing a decrease in the dBi (domestic bliss index).
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced, and hopefully resolved, this issue?



There have been similar reports and Anthem is working on the issue. Apparently the S3 has a number of issues in its HDMI output. Contact Anthem tech support. Some folks have reported best luck with the earlier V1.11e version of the test software.

--Bob


----------



## ssbn04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There have been similar reports and Anthem is working on the issue. Apparently the S3 has a number of issues in its HDMI output. Contact Anthem tech support. Some folks have reported best luck with the earlier V1.11e version of the test software.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob - cabling constraints (long story) make it difficult to deploy component video and discrete audio at this point. I'll hang in there with HDMI and see what Anthem's tech support come up with.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ssbn04* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob - cabling constraints (long story) make it difficult to deploy component video and discrete audio at this point. I'll hang in there with HDMI and see what Anthem's tech support come up with.



As DRHANKZ notes, setting the S3 to always output 1080i, regardless of what channel you are watching, will keep it from having to do as many HDMI re-handshakes. [Every time it changes output resolution it has to re-establish the HDMI connection anew.] You will still have re-handshakes going in and out of its menus however.


The scaler in the S3 is better than most set top boxes, but still not as good as what's in the Anthem. So if you can live with the problem, or when you get a fix from Anthem, it is best to return to "native" output so that SDTV is sent to the Anthem as HDMI 480i and HDTV is sent as HDMI 720p or 1080i and the Anthem takes it from there.


Again, this problem appears to be in the S3 itself. So what Anthem is trying to do is find a way to workaround the S3's limitations without damaging how HDMI input works from other devices.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ssbn04* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a TiVo Series 3 connected via HDMI to an Anthem AVM50. The AVM50 is running Release 1.11g. HDMI repeater is set to off. The TiVo is set to native mode.
> 
> 
> Often, when changing TiVo channels or switching from HD content to SD content playback, the video and audio outputs of the AVM50 become muted. Toggling the AVM50 to an unused input, then back to the TiVo input, resolves the issue but, nonetheless, it is annoying and causing a decrease in the dBi (domestic bliss index).
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced, and hopefully resolved, this issue?



There are a number of issues with the S3 losing sound and losing picture with the Anthem using HDMI. I first used as optical as a backup to lost sound. Ultimately losing the picture switching inputs or hunting around to force menus or live video as a way to trigger getting a picture back was unsat.


One thing I will not do is give up native given the strengths of the Anthem. Per hank it was much easier to go to Component + optical audio vs HDMI for both or just for video. I saved an HDMI port, but there is truly a negligible difference in picture.


Truth in lending: I sometimes "cheat" and use the S3 to go from panel to full to blow up abysmal letterbox SD to 16x9 (like SciFi channel, can't wait until that's HD all the time).


There is a little "hop" in changing resolutions (which may coincide with when you are losing audio), given the menus are 720p, but it's not a big deal [if you are on component & using optical audio]


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Per hank it was much easier to go to Component + optical audio vs HDMI for both or just for video. I saved an HDMI port, but there is truly a negligible difference in picture.



I can't see using a Tivo and paying every month for something

I can get for FREE. I have 5 Sony DHG-HDD-500 Sony DVRs.

They work better than a Tivo - all for FREE.


When I first hooked them up to the D2 I used HDMI. There

are no HDMI problems between the Sony and the D2. But

I wanted to free up HDMI ports since NOTING on TV ever

needs HDMI. Before I made the switch to Component - I

did a frame by frame test between one DVR on Component

and one DVR on HDMI. The D2 was converting both 1080i

inputs to 1080p to feed my Sony Ruby - on a 13 ft. Screen.

I could not perceive any pixel differences in a frame by

frame A/B test.


OK - Maybe I'm TOO OLD to see the difference










Now I save my D2 HDMI ports for pure HD sources with

high bit-rate video and audio.


----------



## richard_onyschak

Does anybody know if the AVM50 does the required stretch to do 2:35 CH?


I want to do 2:35 with a JVC RS1 and a lens with the AVM50 doing the processing so i dont have to purchase a separate scaler.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The RS1/HD1 will not convert anything to 24fps. If you input at 24p, then it will display it at some multiple of 24 (I believe 48Hz) without judder.
> 
> 
> I bought both of my HD players (XA2 and PS3) on the promise that they would both be upgraded to output 1080p/24. This has not happened yet to either player, and who knows if it ever will.
> 
> 
> So, is the D2 capable of doing a proper 1080i/60 or 1080p/60 to 1080p/24 conversion if the input is sourced from 24p material (as in the case of both HD formats)? If so, then I am ecstatic! I didn't think it could do this....
> 
> 
> 
> -Dave




My point is until you got a source that provide 24fps, you should feed your projector 1080p60.


----------



## 3Dfx




> Quote:
> There are a number of issues with the S3 losing sound and losing picture with the Anthem using HDMI. I first used as optical as a backup to lost sound. Ultimately losing the picture switching inputs or hunting around to force menus or live video as a way to trigger getting a picture back was unsat.





> Quote:
> Again, this problem appears to be in the S3 itself. So what Anthem is trying to do is find a way to workaround the S3's limitations without damaging how HDMI input works from other devices.



I do not believe that to be the case. There are reports on the TiVo Community forum for example, as well as my own experience, that either claim or show otherwise respectively.


When an S3 TiVo is connected via HDMI directly to a display the problems usually cease. However, when going through the Anthem via HDMI the problems described become manifest.


The same can be said about the BDP-HD1/Anthem combo. When my BDP-HD1 is connected directly to the display there is no issue. When going through the Anthem there is an issue that has yet to be resolved. Same cable/s, etc.


I like the Anthem and what it does or can potentially do, but I won't blindly defend a product in the face of conflicting evidence either. In this case anyway if one is going to point fingers then the Anthem is where they should be aimed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richard_onyschak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anybody know if the AVM50 does the required stretch to do 2:35 CH?
> 
> 
> I want to do 2:35 with a JVC RS1 and a lens with the AVM50 doing the processing so i dont have to purchase a separate scaler.



Yes, it does. See the fun with custom cropping and scaling links in the first post of this thread for details.


Simply put, you crop down to the real content in the incoming video frame and then you scale that, anamorphically, to the video output resolution you have defined. In the process the image is stretched uniformly to account for the change in shape.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I do not believe that to be the case. There are reports on the TiVo Community forum for example, as well as my own experience, that either claim or show otherwise respectively.
> 
> 
> When an S3 TiVo is connected via HDMI directly to a display the problems usually cease. However, when going through the Anthem via HDMI the problems described become manifest.
> 
> 
> The same can be said about the BDP-HD1/Anthem combo. When my BDP-HD1 is connected directly to the display there is no issue. When going through the Anthem there is an issue that has yet to be resolved. Same cable/s, etc.



Sure, but it is the source device that is responsible for establishing the connection. Tivo's implementation of HDMI has problems with video processors apparently because they present it with more options than it expects a mere TV to offer. The implementation requirements on the source device are different when a video processor is in the middle, and apparently Tivo hasn't got it right yet.


There's also a report over in the HDMI forum here of an S3 owner having similar problems when directly connected to his TV.


Poster YATCHAKS also reported here that he called Tivo and was told the S3 was not designed to work through "scalers". This is silly of course -- their HDMI license requires them to do it right -- but it is not uncommon that source device vendors have not fully tested their HDMI implementation through video processors.


In any event, regardless of where you believe the problem truly lies, Anthem is not ignoring it and is actively working on improving the robustness of its HDMI despite numerous problems from balky source and destination devices. Anthem is working around those problems rather than just waiting for the other companies to fix stuff. The record here of improvements since last summer pretty much speaks for itself.


Also, be clear that some of the software being discussed on this thread is test software, and as such may have problems.

--Bob


----------



## 3Dfx

Bob, I did just what you described above and it works great...most of the time. There are times however where the crop is not quite right.


I created separate layers for TV1 and TV2 for example and renamed them SDTV and HDTV, where each has unique cropping and scaling settings. I then assigned each layer to individual TV channels so that when an SDTV channel is chosen the crop for that aspect ratio takes effect. The same for HDTV channels. This is being used in the MX-3000 remote so that when a known SDTV channel is chosen for example, the crop is applied automatically.


It took a while before I understood how the scaler works but now that I think I have a grasp of it, the more frustrated I become when I can't get it to do exactly what I want, consistently. That is not the Anthem's fault, but is simply the fact TV is not always broadcast in one specific aspect ratio. Even HDTV and SDTV frequently change aspect ratios for commercials, etc.


The TV's of yesteryear were simple in comparison but they worked consistently, but as I like to say "Simplicity is a complicated thing."


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, I did just what you described above and it works great...most of the time. There are times however where the crop is not quite right.
> 
> 
> I created separate layers for TV1 and TV2 for example and renamed them SDTV and HDTV, where each has unique cropping and scaling settings. I then assigned each layer to individual TV channels so that when an SDTV channel is chosen the crop for that aspect ratio takes effect. The same for HDTV channels. This is being used in the MX-3000 remote so that when a known SDTV channel is chosen for example, the crop is applied automatically.



Understand that movies often come in aspect ratios that are NEAR 1.78 (i.e. 16:9) or NEAR 2.35, but not exactly.


For example, many movies that look like they are 2.35 are in fact actually 2.20, or 2.40, or even 2.55.


Just like movies that look like they are 16:9 (1.78) are often actually 1.66 or 1.85.


And for TV broadcasts, this assumes the broadcaster has not fiddled with the aspect ratio.


You may very well need to fiddle with the crop settings on a movie by movie basis to get ideal results.


======================================


EDITED TO ADD: Also note, there is a bug in the V1.10 and V1.11 software that sometimes causes the Scale Out setting to change unexpectedly at power up for the input source selected at power up. Only the input selected at Anthem power up is ever affected. This doesn't happen every time you power up.


Anthem is aware of this problem. This may have been fixed in some of the later test software but we've had no confirmation of that. Of course if your Scale Out setting shifts to Letter/Pillar Box or Panoramic then the crop/scale effect you are trying to achieve will be messed up.

--Bob


----------



## 3Dfx

Exactly. Broadcast TV can be a PITA because the stations re-broadcast or transmit varying aspect raios or aspect ratios which frame other aspect ratios. For example the common 16:9 movie in a 4:3 frame.


It was in fact that example you gave where you showed how to take a 16:9 image out of a 4:3 frame and then scale it that made my 40 Watt bulb light up.










To get my head around the concept, I used the analogy of a Clipboard where I first place the cropped image before scaling it either anamorphically or panoramically. I.e., crop this out and then do this with it.


What I am still unclear on is what HDMI Auto Detect does. I am using either 4:3 or 16:9 depending on the source. Note: my BDP-HD1 is connected via HDMI but the S3 TiVo is via component, so in the latter case HDMI Auto Detect won't work I presume.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The cool thing about the Anthem implementation is that you can see the effect of this stuff live. Custom Crop settings and Scale Out settings are made via the Video Source Adjust menu, and you can fiddle with them while a movie is playing to see exactly what happens as you change them.


This is particularly useful if you are trying to adjust the crop size and centering to account for subtitles.


Having a standardized 2.35 crop, to go along with the 1.78 (16:9) and 1.33 (4:3) crops built into the Anthem is useful, and for most folks the odd bits of pillar or letter boxing left on "nearly 2.35" movies are no problem. But for movies where you wan't to get it "just so", all you need to do is jot down the 4 integers making up the preferred Custom Cropping setting and your preferred Scale Out setting and save that with the movie for manual entry when setting up to play that movie in the future.

--Bob


----------



## 3Dfx

Where exactly is the 2.35:1 default crop located? I see the 16:9 and 4:3 along with Letter/Pillar box but have never seen a 2.35:1 crop. Most of my LD's are 2.35:1 as are many SD DVD's so that would indeed be useful.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What I am still unclear on is what HDMI Auto Detect does. I am using either 4:3 or 16:9 depending on the source. Note: my BDP-HD1 is connected via HDMI but the S3 TiVo is via component, so in the latter case HDMI Auto Detect won't work I presume.



The Crop Input = HDMI Auto Detect setting simply switches automatically between the pre-defined 16:9 and 4:3 crops built into the Anthem according to flags sent by the source.


Despite its name this setting WILL often work for Component video sources as well (there's a mechanism for aspect ratio to be flagged in a Component video stream).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where exactly is the 2.35:1 default crop located? I see the 16:9 and 4:3 along with Letter/Pillar box but have never seen a 2.35:1 crop. Most of my LD's are 2.35:1 as are many SD DVD's so that would indeed be useful.



There is no built-in 2.35 crop. You need to define it yourself as a Crop Input / Custom setting in the Video Source Adjust menu. Personally I think Anthem ought to add it, but of course that just opens up the door for all the others as well.

--Bob


----------



## 3Dfx

Ah, ok. It's been mentioned the Anthem has a default 2.35:1 setting and I wondered why I had not seen it in the scaler.


----------



## 3no

I too have set up overlays for those inputs which might have 2.35 material.


From the math, the vertical size (Crop Input/Custom Setting/Vertical Size) should be 1920/2.35=817. Empirically, I've found that I'm happier with about 805 to ensure vertical stretch all the way to the screen frame, even though that is probably distorting the image vertically by 1.5%, given that my anamorphic lens does the horizontal stretch to 2.35 (times the screen height) and 805 is a vertical stretch for 2.385.


----------



## 3no

Well, the HVAC tech came today and fixed my A/C. Plus the temp in Atlanta dropped this afternoon into the 60s. Didn't get very far into a BD on the PS3 this evening when occasional blue screens started appearing. After a few that input (HDMI1) locked up totally. Came back after a while, but I'm not sure whether it was my reload of factory defaults, multiple power cycles, or just waiting.


In any case, the air temp at the D2 inlet at the time all of this happened was 78F. Maybe not as cool as it could be, but well below the point where it was rock solid previously. Could my thermal problems have damaged the VP or some other component so that it is now even more sensitive to heat? I'll ask Nick tomorrow.


This is a real PITA. Out of desperation I'll see if I can exchange the PS3 for another one. Maybe they aren't all created equal and that's why not everyone is seeing the same problems...


----------



## Hyenna

Anyone else having problems with 480i output from the Toshiba A2 HD-DVD player?

Since I installed 1.11g (and now 1.11e) all my colors are screwep up when I select 480i output from the Tosh, works fine with 480p, 720p and 1080i though.


Tried every color settings and that did nothing. Colors are fine if I connect directly to my TV.

Wish I had stayed with 1.06 now - it was working back then.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, the HVAC tech came today and fixed my A/C. Plus the temp in Atlanta dropped this afternoon into the 60s. Didn't get very far into a BD on the PS3 this evening when occasional blue screens started appearing. After a few that input (HDMI1) locked up totally. Came back after a while, but I'm not sure whether it was my reload of factory defaults, multiple power cycles, or just waiting.
> 
> 
> In any case, the air temp at the D2 inlet at the time all of this happened was 78F. Maybe not as cool as it could be, but well below the point where it was rock solid previously. Could my thermal problems have damaged the VP or some other component so that it is now even more sensitive to heat? I'll ask Nick tomorrow.
> 
> 
> This is a real PITA. Out of desperation I'll see if I can exchange the PS3 for another one. Maybe they aren't all created equal and that's why not everyone is seeing the same problems...



If heat has damaged a part, it's a "out of margin" piece. The heat tolerance of all parts is taken in consideriation in designing these things and the thermal shut off of the unit should kick in before any of the parts fry. Also, I would hope the D2s are tested at or slightly above thermal shutoff for long periods of time to make sure everything is ok. I don't mean each unit, but during the first production unit(s) phase. I still think it can be the PS3 (maybe here and there just to throw you off), those puppies run very warm. I don't recall if you took it out of the cab and ran it where it would be unlikely to over heat.


larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyenna* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone else having problems with 480i output from the Toshiba A2 HD-DVD player?
> 
> Since I installed 1.11g (and now 1.11e) all my colors are screwep up when I select 480i output from the Tosh, works fine with 480p, 720p and 1080i though.
> 
> 
> Tried every color settings and that did nothing. Colors are fine if I connect directly to my TV.
> 
> Wish I had stayed with 1.06 now - it was working back then.



Can you describe the color screwup more precisely? Are you using HDMI or Component?


Double check the settings in the Video Source Adjust menu to be sure nothing odd got introduced there in the course of the software changes.


Insure that Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF.


If using HDMI, insure that Setup / Source Select / HDMI Repeater = NO.


If using HDMI, insure that Setup / Video Output / Preferred = HDMI.


Double check that any overlayed inputs (DVD1 vs. DVD2, etc.) that you are not using are "disabled" so that you can't select one of them by accident. Do this in Setup / Source Select for each input in turn.


=======================================


EDITED TO ADD: If the above doesn't lead to a fix for your problem, switch your A2 to 480i (so that you have the problem) and see if you can bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. If you can, go to the Info panel and report what it is showing for both the input and output values.


Back out of the Video Source Adjust Menu and, presuming you are still seeing the problem, press the Select button on the remote repeatedly and report what it is showing for each set of status (except we won't need your unit serial number). This status info can also be read on the Anthem's front panel display if your TV imaging is so screwed up that you can't read it there.

--Bob


----------



## lumikola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My A/C is being repaired as I type this. But why do you need A/C in Finland? Just bring in outside air



Summers can be very warm, but nothing compared to your conditions, of course







I got mail from Nick and he asked me to position a small fan to draw air away from the top of the D2. I try this during weekend. Let's see what happens.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lumikola* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Summers can be very warm, but nothing compared to your conditions, of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got mail from Nick and he asked me to position a small fan to draw air away from the top of the D2. I try this during weekend. Let's see what happens.



I thought this time of year you would still have piles of lumi everywhere.


The small fan worked for me, until last night anyway. I placed a PC case fan directly on top of the D2, resting on the slots in the center of the case, oriented so that it was blowing directly up, drawing hot air out of the case.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I still think it can be the PS3 (maybe here and there just to throw you off), those puppies run very warm. I don't recall if you took it out of the cab and ran it where it would be unlikely to over heat.



Nick had me take the PS3 out of the rack (easy to do, it's just sitting on a shelf) and repeat the test. No change in behavior.


I'm swapping out the PS3 later today, just in case...


----------



## lumikola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought this time of year you would still have piles of lumi everywhere.
> 
> 
> The small fan worked for me, until last night anyway. I placed a PC case fan directly on top of the D2, resting on the slots in the center of the case, oriented so that it was blowing directly up, drawing hot air out of the case.



Lumi (how do you know that word







) has gone, this spring's been extremely warm near Helsinki.


Nick strongly believes that the reason is heat in my case. After this weekend I can be sure if that's true. First air conditioning on Saturday and if it doesn't help, on Sunday I will install a huge fan. I'll keep you informed.


----------



## ssbn04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As DRHANKZ notes, setting the S3 to always output 1080i, regardless of what channel you are watching, will keep it from having to do as many HDMI re-handshakes. [Every time it changes output resolution it has to re-establish the HDMI connection anew.] You will still have re-handshakes going in and out of its menus however.
> 
> 
> The scaler in the S3 is better than most set top boxes, but still not as good as what's in the Anthem. So if you can live with the problem, or when you get a fix from Anthem, it is best to return to "native" output so that SDTV is sent to the Anthem as HDMI 480i and HDTV is sent as HDMI 720p or 1080i and the Anthem takes it from there.
> 
> 
> Again, this problem appears to be in the S3 itself. So what Anthem is trying to do is find a way to workaround the S3's limitations without damaging how HDMI input works from other devices.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob - I've set the S3 to native 1080i and improved the dBi several points.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ssbn04* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob - I've set the S3 to native 1080i and improved the dBi several points.



Native or 1080i?


----------



## ssbn04




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Native or 1080i?



Sorry - yep, 1080i always


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks having issues with Apple TV HDMI connections, there's not really any new news. But it has become a common enough complaint that it's now an item on the MacFixIt site:

http://www.macfixit.com/article.php?...70330090814465 


You might want to keep an eye out there for any updates.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan

FWIW guys, I continue to "suffer" through in Native mode as always since the day the S3 came out. Though as I've said before there are occasional losses of signal when switching between HD and SD channels, this is fairly rare, rare enough for me and the better half to have no issues leaving it on this setting. The high quality of the D2 scaling/deinterlacing is a joy to behold, so I leave it in Native mode. It just doesn't seem as bad in my setup as you guys are reporting.


I am running 1.10 still, stable as can be, and I feel no need to jump off of it.


-Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Oh, guys, with AppleTV, use Component, it works flawlessly and looks gorgeous when the AppleTV is set to 720p, its native output. Let the D2 scale that and enjoy!


All this worry about HDMI is making me nutty with regards to this device. The output is 720p, there is no need for HDMI from this thing, you'll never see a difference...use Optical and Component, and be done with it....


Great device by the way, I love it! Pictures and HD video's look amazing on the thing through the D2.


My 2 cents,

Brian


----------



## AnthemAVM

Got my XA2, plugged it in and it works perfect with the D2.


----------



## lumikola

Before doing anything else, I moved PS3 two meters away from D2. And now, after two hours playing etc., there haven't been any blue screens. I didn't notice and believe before that PS3 creates a huge (!) amount of heat, but I'll keep it far away from other equipment now.


It's evident that there's nothing wrong with 1.11g and PS3. D2 just seems to be slightly heat sensitive with PS3, which must be taken into account. If this problem doesn't appear anymore, everything works perfectly in my D2 system. I can only thank Nick for fast and clear support


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lumikola* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Before doing anything else, I moved PS3 two meters away from D2. And now, after two hours playing etc., there haven't been any blue screens. I didn't notice and believe before that PS3 creates a huge (!) amount of heat, but I'll keep it far away from other equipment now.
> 
> 
> It's evident that there's nothing wrong with 1.11g and PS3. D2 just seems to be slightly heat sensitive with PS3, which must be taken into account. If this problem doesn't appear anymore, everything works perfectly in my D2 system. I can only thank Nick for fast and clear support



Hmmm. I wonder whether it's really heat or if the PS3 is perhaps putting out RF interference -- maybe only when it has an HDMI cable connected to it -- that is giving the D2 grief.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got my XA2, plugged it in and it works perfect with the D2.



Gee, I don't know what to say. Given it's the weekend and all -- I realize this may not be what you want to hear -- but you may just need to wait until Monday to contact Anthem tech support.


(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FWIW guys, I continue to "suffer" through in Native mode as always since the day the S3 came out. Though as I've said before there are occasional losses of signal when switching between HD and SD channels, this is fairly rare, rare enough for me and the better half to have no issues leaving it on this setting. The high quality of the D2 scaling/deinterlacing is a joy to behold, so I leave it in Native mode. It just doesn't seem as bad in my setup as you guys are reporting.
> 
> 
> I am running 1.10 still, stable as can be, and I feel no need to jump off of it.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Brian,


I've gone native, I mean stayed native too. But it works much better via component (like the advice you cave on Apple TV







))


I have to admit I listened to Hank and it was the right thing to do going component and leaving the source change startup issues behind.


----------



## lumikola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm. I wonder whether it's really heat or if the PS3 is perhaps putting out RF interference -- maybe only when it has an HDMI cable connected to it -- that is giving the D2 grief.
> 
> --Bob



This is from Nick's email:


"...It ('problem') is not a result of the PS3, which gets hot itself, creating enough heat to cause problem because the problem exists (in the last system) when PS3 is used outside of the rack, away from the D2. Furthermore, many people are using a PS3 with a D2 without a problem.

We reproduced the problem here after putting the D2 in a box and connecting a PS3, which we had since not long after they came out. This is not the normal way to use a D2 of course."


According to Nick, all reported three PS3 blue screen cases before me were heat related. After four hours of enjoying PS3 this morning, there are still no problems in my system. Temperature close to D2 is appr. 3 degrees lower than before moving PS3.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got my XA2, plugged it in and it works perfect with the D2.



What FW version are you using?


----------



## lumikola

Air conditioning was installed yesterday. I moved PS3 to it's original place appr. one meter below D2. After couple of hours, there are no blue screens and temperature in the back of D2 is couple of degrees lower than in original situation (no A/C). Everything's working well.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

 http://www.cnw.ca/fr/releases/archiv.../30/c8798.html 


What does this mean for Anthem? Will we see a Wave D2?

--Bob





edit: april







fool!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> http://www.cnw.ca/fr/releases/archiv.../30/c8798.html
> 
> 
> What does this mean for Anthem? Will we see a Wave D2?
> 
> --Bob



I think your link is broken.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> http://www.cnw.ca/fr/releases/archiv.../30/c8798.html
> 
> 
> What does this mean for Anthem? Will we see a Wave D2?
> 
> --Bob



Boy I hope they get that noise cancellation going on the D2 too...maybe that is the fancy EQ solution Lev keeps talking about.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> http://www.cnw.ca/fr/releases/archiv.../30/c8798.html
> 
> 
> What does this mean for Anthem? Will we see a Wave D2?
> 
> --Bob



AF to you too


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think your link is broken.



I can't understand it. Try searching using today's date.

--Bob


----------



## lalarsons

I am not finding any news articles referenced to Anthem, Paradign or Bose....


----------



## AnthemAVM

I just called a broker buddy of mine, and he looked it up, and it is true. Those crazy people north of the US border.


This is terrible, I am going to put my D2 on ebay with a low buy it now price of less than half, as people are going to start dumping these things quick.


----------



## madpoet

Um... what? Either this is a April Fools thing gone wrong, or I'm really missing something


----------



## lalarsons

Looks like you got us Bob.............


----------



## AnthemAVM

AF


----------



## Randall Morton

No April fools here. Nick sent me firmware version 1.11e and I did the upgrade. It solved my DVHS problem and it seems a bit more stable although I didn't have much trouble before with the 1.11. Only time I lose sync now is when I bypass the D2 to use my computer which is hooked directly to my Dwin scaler. When I go back to the D2 it will give me an HDMI error and try to regain sync unsuccessfully. I can then switch to another source with the D2 and then swich back to the original source and it has sync back.


I lose sync with the computer if I run it directly through the D2, but I have ordered the Gefen DVI detective which should allow me to use the D2 for all sources..


I watched a bit of Xmen 2 on DVHS and the sound is just incredible. The best I've heard anywhere. I didn't want to watch too much because I will have my P5 and RS1 later this week and I want to save it for the new stuff.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No April fools here. Nick sent me firmware version 1.11e and I did the upgrade. It solved my DVHS problem and it seems a bit more stable although I didn't have much trouble before with the 1.11. Only time I lose sync now is when I bypass the D2 to use my computer which is hooked directly to my Dwin scaler. When I go back to the D2 it will give me an HDMI error and try to regain sync unsuccessfully. I can then switch to another source with the D2 and then swich back to the original source and it has sync back.
> 
> 
> I lose sync with the computer if I run it directly through the D2, but I have ordered the Gefen DVI detective which should allow me to use the D2 for all sources..
> 
> 
> I watched a bit of Xmen 2 on DVHS and the sound is just incredible. The best I've heard anywhere. I didn't want to watch too much because I will have my P5 and RS1 later this week and I want to save it for the new stuff.



Good news!


I'm curious because I've not used DVHS myself. How does audio connect to the Anthem? And what are the characteristics of the audio track?

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

I'm using an optical SPDIF and the DVHS deck is set to output bitstream. The D2 reports 576 kbps on I, Robot which I still had in from last night.


I think the sound from the two prerecorded DVHS tapes I've listed to so far is the best I've ever heard. There are probably some HD DVDs that are as good but I may not have the reference audio HDDVDs. It may be my imagination but the video seems to look better also than it did going directly to my Dwin scaler.


On another subject, do you know if there is a way to output 480i from a HTPC over DVI and let the D2 do the processing? I have a lot of my DVDs ripped to a couple of large drives that I was using TheaterTek to play. Now they don't look as good as they do when I play them through my XA2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm using an optical SPDIF and the DVHS deck is set to output bitstream. The D2 reports 576 kbps on I, Robot which I still had in from last night.
> 
> 
> I think the sound from the two prerecorded DVHS tapes I've listed to so far is the best I've ever heard. There are probably some HD DVDs that are as good but I may not have the reference audio HDDVDs. It may be my imagination but the video seems to look better also than it did going directly to my Dwin scaler.
> 
> 
> On another subject, do you know if there is a way to output 480i from a HTPC over DVI and let the D2 do the processing? I have a lot of my DVDs ripped to a couple of large drives that I was using TheaterTek to play. Now they don't look as good as they do when I play them through my XA2.



Although DVI can be made to support 480i, it does not normally do so. It's in the nature of a hack. The trick is that the video stream has to be pixel replicated to artificially raise the bandwidth of the video. This is the same way that 480i works in an HDMI connection, but there it is an accepted (albeit optional) part of the connection spec.


I do not know if you can force DVI from your HTPC to work this way.


Also, you need to see if the DVI from your HTPC is using Extended RGB ("Black" = 0) instead of Studio RGB ("Black" = 16). What you want is Studio RGB. In addition, even if you are using Studio RGB, you may still be clipping Peak White data -- data in the range 235 to 254 -- or Blacker than Black data -- data in the range 1 to 15.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

Thanks, I didn't think it would be easy. Maybe once I get my 1080P projector the upscale to 1080P will make it closer to what I get from my XA2.


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> http://www.cnw.ca/fr/releases/archiv.../30/c8798.html
> 
> 
> What does this mean for Anthem? Will we see a Wave D2?
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: april
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fool!



Bose will ruin the company. This is depressing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bose will ruin the company. This is depressing.



Oh I don't know. Anthem needs more dealer presence, and Bose even manages to get some of their product into Sharper Image. Evaluating a D2 while trying one of those nifty massager chairs could be just the ticket!


And I think a Paradigm Signature speaker line incorporating Bose's amazing cardboard driver cones is a natural.

--Bob (tongue firmly in cheek) P.


----------



## lalarsons

A5 arrived......but no D2 yet at 4 weeks. I have had plenty of time to become thoroughly familiar with the D2 manual. Regarding a USB to Serial adaptor(for s/w upgrades and saving configs), which one or ones are a best bet as an interface? ie Belkin, Stor, AIrlink, etc. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A5 arrived......but no D2 yet at 4 weeks. I have had plenty of time to become thoroughly familiar with the D2 manual. Regarding a USB to Serial adaptor(for s/w upgrades and saving configs), which one or ones are a best bet as an interface? ie Belkin, Stor, AIrlink, etc. Thanks.



If I had no choice but to use a USB/Serial adapter, I'd go with the Belkin. They've been at it longer and have a better chance of having the drivers right.


However, if you can locate a PC with a real serial port you will probably be better off.


---------------------------------------


Note that these adapters can come packaged with old drivers. You should probably check for the latest drivers.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer

^^^ Nick highly recommended the IOGear adapter to me, FWIW.


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I had no choice but to use a USB/Serial adapter, I'd go with the Belkin. They've been at it longer and have a better chance of having the drivers right.
> 
> 
> However, if you can locate a PC with a real serial port you will probably be better off.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Note that these adapters can come packaged with old drivers. You should probably check for the latest drivers.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the advice. I agree that using serial is likely the best solution. Another question then: I do have a PC with a serial port, though it is approx 20ft from where the D2 will be; are there any issues with driving a serial cable that length bidirectionally?

Rick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice. I agree that using serial is likely the best solution. Another question then: I do have a PC with a serial port, though it is approx 20ft from where the D2 will be; are there any issues with driving a serial cable that length bidirectionally?
> 
> Rick



Shouldn't be a problem. The bandwidth for serial connections is not that high. Just use a decent cable.

--Bob


----------



## lazarus28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice. I agree that using serial is likely the best solution. Another question then: I do have a PC with a serial port, though it is approx 20ft from where the D2 will be; are there any issues with driving a serial cable that length bidirectionally?
> 
> Rick



I bought a 50 ft serial cable from a local electronics warehouse for under $18 and leave it wound up behind the D2 (actually, D1-HD) when not updating. When I need to, I just grab it, take it to the compy and hook it up. Works like a charm and is cheap!


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I do have a PC with a serial port, though it is approx 20ft from where the D2 will be; are there any issues with driving a serial cable that length bidirectionally?
> 
> Rick



I regularly run and use bi-directional RS-232 cables 100 feet or more at work. We generally will use a good quality foil shielded 24AWG wire size. At home I will be running about 75 feet from my Computer Room to the HT Room specifically for AVM upgrades. Depending on how many conductors you need the stuff is available at most Electronics supply places.


For 20-25 feet, CAT-5 would even work OK for you - solder the twisted pairs together on each end and you'll have 4 wires to play with. Also it is cheap as h&ll


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I regularly run and use bi-directional RS-232 cables 100 feet or more at work. We generally will use a good quality foil shielded 24AWG wire size. At home I will be running about 75 feet from my Computer Room to the HT Room specifically for AVM upgrades. Depending on how many conductors you need the stuff is available at most Electronics supply places.
> 
> 
> For 20-25 feet, CAT-5 would even work OK for you - solder the twisted pairs together on each end and you'll have 4 wires to play with. Also it is cheap as h&ll



Mo good advice........thank you Paul. Now I know all of that left over CAT6 cable won't go to waste.


----------



## AnthemAVM

I have a D2 and a Denon 3910 that I would like to play SACD and DVD-A on, what is the best way to connect the two?


Thanks


----------



## FilmMixer

^^^Analog out of the Denon to the D2.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a D2 and a Denon 3910 that I would like to play SACD and DVD-A on, what is the best way to connect the two?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I would suggest HDMI for DVD-Audio and video, and you'll need to connect the 5.1 Channel RCA Outs to the 6-channel input on the D2 for SACD usage.


This is a minimum of course - if you are planning on using Zone 2 or Zone 3 at all, I would add simple 2-channel RCA outs and Component video connections and/or SVideo and/or Composite, depending on what connections are used for video to the other zones. Stereo 2-channel RCA's are needed because all other zones other than main are strictly stereo-only zones. These other connections allow you to have truly independent switching of the Denon3910 into all zones, with no dependency on what is playing in the Main Zone. If you do not connect these other connections, the best you can do is "Copy to Zone 2" or "Copy to Zone 3" when the 3910 is playing in the Main Zone.


Hope this helps,

-Brian


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^Analog out of the Denon to the D2.



Isn't that the _only_ way to get SACD? I.e., you can't use HDMI for SACD, can you? Does HDMI work for DVD-A?


Edit: Man with a Plan posted while I was reading!


----------



## PooperScooper

Somebody posted in another forum that to their knowledge there are only 4 receivers that support HDMI 1.2a which is required for DSD via HDMI. Then you have to find a player.










larry


----------



## ManWithAPlan

So, the question about does DVD-A work across HDMI 1.1 or higher...the answer is absolutely YES! I have been using my Pio DV-79avi to do so with the D2 since the day I got my D2. What PooperScooper is refering to ONLY applies to SACD, and the answer there is no, it won't work across HDMI with the Denon 3910...


Which is why I recommended that AnthemAVM use both HDMI and 5.1 analog outs to the D2, to handle both formats.


----------



## PaulT_BC

I was under the impression that vanilla HDMI 1.2 supported SACD/DSD.
http://www.crutchfield.com/ISEO-rgbt...mi.html?page=2 


Players like Oppo 970 convert DSD to PCM so are able to transfer SACD material over the HDMI 1.1 connection.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was under the impression that vanilla HDMI 1.2 supported SACD/DSD.
> http://www.crutchfield.com/ISEO-rgbt...mi.html?page=2
> 
> 
> Players like Oppo 970 convert DSD to PCM so are able to transfer SACD material over the HDMI 1.1 connection.



I was just going by what the other poster said. In fact, even though there may be a 1.2 spec, there may only be 1.2a hardware that made it out. Don't know.


larry


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Players like Oppo 970 convert DSD to PCM so are able to transfer SACD material over the HDMI 1.1 connection.



For some reason this is the ONLY player out there that can do this, other than the PS3. I wish more manufacturers would include this feature so that we could transfer all sources to the D2 via one hdmi cable rather than the snake's nest of wires!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For some reason this is the ONLY player out there that can do this, other than the PS3. I wish more manufacturers would include this feature so that we could transfer all sources to the D2 via one hdmi cable rather than the snake's nest of wires!



I agree. But I don't have many SACD's, as most of my collection is DVD-A. I don't know if I will even bother with attaching the analog outs. If I don't, I will have a very clean looking rear on the D2, just 4 hdmi cables and the 7 balanced connections to the amp.


I am already out of hdmi connections, I wish the D2 had one more: 1)HD-DVD player, 2)Blu-ray player, 3)SD DVD/ DVD-A./ SACD player, and 4) SA 8300 HD DVR.


If I wanted to keep my PS3 in the system, I would have to either get a switcher (ugly) or just manually connect it each time I want to use it.


BTW, the D2 must be in pretty high demand right now. My dealer indicated that he could almost always get one in about 1 week. After placing the order, he called me back and said that he spoke to Anthem, and it would be about 2 weeks. Well, it has been 2 1/2 weeks, and he still doesn't have it, although he does expect it by Friday (which would be exactly 3 weeks).


It's all coming together though. My JVC RS1 is shipping today for Monday delivery, my Pioneer Elite Blu-ray player _should_ be ready for pick-up this weekend, and the D2 will hopefully be here late next week.


The anxiety is killing me!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

Maybe they've stopped shipping them until they can finish V1.12......


--Bob (running away) P.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> Maybe they've stopped shipping them until they can finish V1.12......
> 
> 
> --Bob (running away) P.




You better run away a bit faster than that after that comment!


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You better run away a bit faster than that after that comment!



My understanding is that April D2 shipments begin on April 9


----------



## mr_fitz

My D2 should arrive today after waiting 4 weeks. Y AY


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My D2 should arrive today after waiting 4 weeks. Y AY



Yippee for Mr. Fitz







Welcome to the Happy D2 Club!


----------



## barhoram

Is there a consensus on the best way to play SD DVD's with the D2? I'm assuming passing untouched 480i to the D2 would have better results than having a dvd player or HD dvd player upconvert. I'm waiting on the call to get my D1 upgraded, and am trying to decide if I should hang onto my Pioneer 59avi.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a consensus on the best way to play SD DVD's with the D2? I'm assuming passing untouched 480i to the D2 would have better results than having a dvd player or HD dvd player upconvert. I'm waiting on the call to get my D1 upgraded, and am trying to decide if I should hang onto my Pioneer 59avi.



If you have a player that does HDMI 480i without problems, then the best way to view standard DVDs is to send HDMI 480i to the D2 and let the D2 take it from there. NOTE: Not all HDMI players will put out HDMI 480i, and some that do have errors in what they put out.


There are VERY few players out there that can de-interlace and scale as well as the D2.


See the "calibration for non-ISF techs" link in the first post of this thread for more info.


But feel free to play around with other combinations. There might be something unusual about your setup that yields better results if you have the player doing the work. Just be sure you calibrate both ways separately before you attempt to do any critical comparisons.

--Bob


----------



## jpillar

Bob,


I got this off the FIOS thread:


I can definitively answer your second question. No. The 6416 STB from Motorola can be set to output one resolution only. You can set it to output 1080i, 720p, 480i, or 480p, but only one. Therefore, all programming gets converted to the output resolution you set it to.


If this is true the STB is converting 480i/p 720p or 1080i to whatever output you choose to on the STB. Correct? I doubt the scaling/deinterlacing in the STB is as good as the D2. Does this circumvent the benefit of getting the D2 or any video processor, because the signal fed into the D2 has been already processed by the STB. Would a STB with pass through be better?


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I got this off the FIOS thread:
> 
> 
> I can definitively answer your second question. No. The 6416 STB from Motorola can be set to output one resolution only. You can set it to output 1080i, 720p, 480i, or 480p, but only one. Therefore, all programming gets converted to the output resolution you set it to.
> 
> 
> If this is true the STB is converting 480i/p 720p or 1080i to whatever output you choose to on the STB. Correct? I doubt the scaling/deinterlacing in the STB is as good as the D2. Does this circumvent the benefit of getting the D2 or any video processor, because the signal fed into the D2 has been already processed by the STB. Would a STB with pass through be better?
> 
> 
> John



An STB with pass through -- often called "native" -- mode would definitely be better.


It is my experience that the Motorola HD boxes can be set to two resolutions: One for HD channels and one for SD. But there are certainly HD boxes out there that only allow one resolution. Some, like the DirecTV boxes allow you to change resolutions on the fly, manually, with the remote.


If your HD box only puts out one resolution, then set it to 1080i. This will give you best viewing of the majority of HD programs, since there's not all that much HD 720p being broadcast outside of live sporting events these days.


NOTE: Do this *EVEN IF* your TV is a 720p or 768p TV! Have the STB put out 1080i and let the Anthem scale it from there. This essentially turns off the STB's scaler during 1080i HD programs, which is what you want.


However the de-interlacers and scalers in almost all STBs, and certainly in all of the Motorola STBs, are simply godawful. So you won't get as good a picture telling the STB to de-interlace SDTV (which is all 480i in NTSC markets) and scale it up to 1080i rather than sending 480i to the Anthem and letting the Anthem do the heavy lifting.


In addition, HD 720p broadcasts will also be scaled by the box to 1080i -- again not ideal.


Even so, there are advantages to passing the signal through the D2. First, you only have one connecting cable to the TV. Second, the D2 will do proper de-interlacing of 1080i to 1080p for 1080p TVs. Third, the D2 will scale to "native" resolution for non-1080 TVs. Fourth, the D2 will give you maximum flexibility to optimize gray and color levels for your TV. Fifth, the D2 will allow you to do custom crop/scaling on the fly for particular programs, such as if a 16:9 movie is broadcast letterboxed by an SDTV channel and you would prefer it to fill your 16:9 screen instead of having black borders around all 4 sides, or to do Constant Height setups for folks with anamorphic projection systems. Sixth, you can mix audio and video from different sources, such as watching a baseball game while listening to a CD. Etc., etc.


--------------------------------------------------------


Check out the Tivo S3 with a couple CableCards as an alternative to your Motorola box.

--Bob


----------



## jjmd

Hi all,


I have been following this thread off and on since I purchased a D1 with the intention up adding the video upgrade when available. Well, the upgraded D1-HD arived last friday and I tried to hook it up only to my Optoma H77, no other anyhting hooked up except the power cord, via the HDMI/DVI cable I had been succesfully using to view my Oppo DVD player. Well, no picture no matter which settings I used in the video output menu. Nick sent me the 1.11e firmware. Couldn't get my PIII laptop with a serial port running Windows 2000 to talk to the D1-HD, but the Intel Mac Mini running Windows XP Home via Boot Camp and a USB to Serial adaptor worked like a charm the first time. Still no picture on the H77 via DVI (yes it is HDCP complient). So, I hooked up the component cables and got a picture. Changed the video settings to the correct color space, but when the resolution is set to 1280x720p/60 (or/50) the image is shifted to the left and does not fill the screen. When I set it to 480p it fills the screen correctly, but that kind of defeats the purpose of spending $2K for a scaler that is better than the one in the projector... I have sent another e-mail to Nick about this, but I was wondering if anyone here had any thoughts ( I did a search of this thread for anything on the H77 first).


Thanks,


Jay


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I got this off the FIOS thread:
> 
> 
> I can definitively answer your second question. No. The 6416 STB from Motorola can be set to output one resolution only. You can set it to output 1080i, 720p, 480i, or 480p, but only one. Therefore, all programming gets converted to the output resolution you set it to.
> 
> John



This is not quite true (I have a 6416 III). It can output one resolution for HD signals and another resolution for SD signals (as you have said Bob).


For input HD it is correct - whatever the input, you can only output one resolution (1080i for example).



For SD signals there is an option called 4:3 override in the menu.


If the main Output is set to 1080i, 720p or 480p this defaults to 480i.


If the main Output is set to 480i, this setting defaults to OFF and cannot be changed. Options are:


OFF

displays non-high-definition programs having a 4:3 aspect ratio in wide screen format. On an HDTV, black bars display on the left and right of the picture. Selecting OFF for a 4:3 TV may result in a small picture with black bars around it.


480i

displays non-high-definition programs in their original 480i format. Graphics overlaying the video are displayed.


480p

converts non-high-definition TV programs to a higher-quality 480p format. Graphics overlaying the video are not displayed.


Basically you can force the 6416 to output 480p for SD signals if you wish, otherwise it outputs 480i.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjmd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I have been following this thread off and on since I purchased a D1 with the intention up adding the video upgrade when available. Well, the upgraded D1-HD arived last friday and I tried to hook it up only to my Optoma H77, no other anyhting hooked up except the power cord, via the HDMI/DVI cable I had been succesfully using to view my Oppo DVD player. Well, no picture no matter which settings I used in the video output menu. Nick sent me the 1.11e firmware. Couldn't get my PIII laptop with a serial port running Windows 2000 to talk to the D1-HD, but the Intel Mac Mini running Windows XP Home via Boot Camp and a USB to Serial adaptor worked like a charm the first time. Still no picture on the H77 via DVI (yes it is HDCP complient). So, I hooked up the component cables and got a picture. Changed the video settings to the correct color space, but when the resolution is set to 1280x720p/60 (or/50) the image is shifted to the left and does not fill the screen. When I set it to 480p it fills the screen correctly, but that kind of defeats the purpose of spending $2K for a scaler that is better than the one in the projector... I have sent another e-mail to Nick about this, but I was wondering if anyone here had any thoughts ( I did a search of this thread for anything on the H77 first).
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jay



Jay, I know there have been some reports in this thread of problems with Optimas that turned out to be a bug in the Optima itself. I can't recall which Optima model and whether a fix was offered by Optima.


That said, the fact that you are having problems with both HDMI and Component indicates to me that you have a problem in your D1-HD.


But let's start at the beginning:


First, double check your Optima manual for the resolutions it accepts, and whether you have to make any setting changes inside it to enable HD resolutions. Note that the resolutions it accepts over Component and over DVI may be different.


Next check whether your Optima has a setting for enabling the DVI input, and for configuring it for DVI or set top box use as opposed to computer use.


Presuming that doesn't lead to a fix, let's try the Anthem settings again.


It is best to do these tests using a short HDMI-DVI cable -- preferably under 6 feet. Move the Anthem, if you have to. You won't need any source devices or speaker hookups for this test.


Turn off the Anthem and the Optima, cable up the HDMI-DVI cable, turn on the Optima, give it about 30 seconds to wake up, then turn on the Anthem.


Select an input on the Anthem that has no video source connected to it.


Go to Setup / Video Output in the Anthem (using the Front Panel display since you have no video). Set:


Preferred = HDMI

Resolution = 640x480p/60Hz (presuming the Optima accepts that)

Color Space = HDTV

Data Format = RGB

Sync = Normal


We are using 480p because it is the simplest resolution for a DVI device to handle. RGB Data Format is the most likely to work for DVI devices. Please note the changes don't take effect until you exit the Video Output menu and Accept them. Use the Back button to back out of the menu. Be sure to change "No" to "Yes" to accept the changes you have made.


Do you get video? If not, go back into Video Output and change Sync = Inverted. Back out and accept this change.


Do you get video? If not, leave the Anthem on (you will still be in the Setup menu having just exited the Video Output menu). Turn off the Optima. Wait about 10 seconds. Turn on the Optima and, if necessary select its DVI input. Wait about 30 seconds.


Now go back into Video Output and try each of Sync = Normal and Sync = Inverted again (all other settings unchanged). We are attempting to force the Anthem to re-establish the connection in case it or the Optima got confused due to the settings when they were first powered up. Remember to Back out and accept the change each time.


If still no video, then either the HDMI output of the Anthem or the DVI input of the Optima is not working.


-----------------------------------------------------


Let's try Component again.


Power off both devices and hook up Component cables. Power on both devices (the order shouldn't matter since there is no handshake to get confused).


Go into Video Output and set Preferred=Component. Back out and accept the change.


You should have video imaging since this has worked before for you. But the colors may be wrong since we set Data Format to RGB. If the colors are right skip to the next step, otherwise go into Video Output and change Data Format to YCbCr 4:4:4, Back out and accept that change. One of these two Data Format settings should give you proper color.


Now go back into Video Output and change the resolution to 1280x720p/60Hz, *PRESUMING* you have verified that this is a resolution your Optima is supposed to accept over Component. Please note, some displays will accept 1080i but not 720p.


How's the Component video look now?


=============================================


EDITED TO ADD: I see that your Optima's DVI input is DVI-I. That means it has both analog and digital connectors in the same plug. You have to select which of those two forms of video it uses when the DVI input is selected. You want the digital DVI connection of course. Do that using the Source button on its control panel. Also try using the Re-Sync button to force the Optima to resync to the video when you change Anthem resolutions.


Also use Source Lock in the Optima's System menu to keep it from mistakenly switching to different inputs when it doesn't immediately see a signal on the input you choose.


Also make sure you haven't accidentally hit the "Hide" button on the Optima remote as this will black out the display.



--Bob


----------



## jjmd

Thanks for the quick reply. I've tried most of your suggestions as they were in a previoius post I found, but not the shorter cable run as Nick said that with 720p that should not be a problem. If I cannot get it to work with any of your other resolution suggestions tonight I will try the shorter cable run (I think I have on on hand that I was goig to try for connecting DVI output of the Mac Mini into one of the HDMI inputs of the D1-HD before I read about all the problems that can cause). I wish I had another DVI or HDMI devise I could try this on as well, but I am sure Anthem tested the HDMI output before they sent it to me.


Thanks again,


Jay


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjmd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. I've tried most of your suggestions as they were in a previoius post I found, but not the shorter cable run as Nick said that with 720p that should not be a problem. If I cannot get it to work with any of your other resolution suggestions tonight I will try the shorter cable run (I think I have on on hand that I was goig to try for connecting DVI output of the Mac Mini into one of the HDMI inputs of the D1-HD before I read about all the problems that can cause). I wish I had another DVI or HDMI devise I could try this on as well, but I am sure Anthem tested the HDMI output before they sent it to me.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> 
> Jay



See the comments I added at the end of my post. That DVI-Analog vs. DVI-Digital setting sounds like a likely culprit for your HDMI-DVI problem.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If your HD box only puts out one resolution, then set it to 1080i. This will give you best viewing of the majority of HD programs, since there's not all that much HD 720p being broadcast outside of live sporting events these days.



Actually _all_ of the HD programming that you get from Fox, ABC, and ESPN are in native 720p.


This is a bad thing if your STB can only do one output and doesn't have a "native" setting. Pick your poison.


----------



## 3no

Now that my D2 is being fed cooler air, the blue screen problems have gone (or are in hiding).


But... having had a chance to actually watch some BD movies, I find that with PCM input I get a "static" noise overlaying the audio, but only with the PS3. Change the PS3 to bitstream and the noise is gone. HD-A1 with PCM has no such noise -- only PS3. I hear it on headphones as well, so the cause is not downstream of the D2. The noise is not loud, but clearly audible with a dialog-level soundtrack.


Any ideas on how to diagnose? All suggestions cheerfully accepted.


----------



## aus

I thought only ABC and ESPN are 720p? At least that's what my DirecTV box shows.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought only ABC and ESPN are 720p? At least that's what my DirecTV box shows.



Fox too.


Unless they switched to 1080i without telling me!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm pretty sure FOX uses 1080i now for everything except live sports programming. That's the national feed. What the local affiliate stations do could be just about anything.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now that my D2 is being fed cooler air, the blue screen problems have gone (or are in hiding).
> 
> 
> But... having had a chance to actually watch some BD movies, I find that with PCM input I get a "static" noise overlaying the audio, but only with the PS3. Change the PS3 to bitstream and the noise is gone. HD-A1 with PCM has no such noise -- only PS3. I hear it on headphones as well, so the cause is not downstream of the D2. The noise is not loud, but clearly audible with a dialog-level soundtrack.
> 
> 
> Any ideas on how to diagnose? All suggestions cheerfully accepted.



Check the PS3 threads over in the Blu-Ray Players forum for the latest, but I don't recall any complaints about PCM quality that might have been addressed by firmware updates.


Double-check that the bit rate the D2 is receiving is what you think it should be receiving.


I'm not sure where else to go with this one. We haven't had any PS3 sound quality issues in this thread that I can recall.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I know you can't always trust Wikipedia, but this is what that site says:




> Quote:
> In North America, Fox, My Network TV (also owned by Fox), ABC, and ESPN (ABC and ESPN are both owned by Disney) currently broadcast 720p content.



I couldn't tell how current this info was though.


Edit: also, look at this link: http://www.engadgethd.com/2007/03/30...march-30-2007/ 


It shows Fox broadcasting in 720p.


----------



## sshearer

I just wanted to express a big thank you to all of the participants on this forum. I have spent a great deal of time reading the posts and learning a lot of good information about the D2. All the positive comments about the D2 and all the posters who have spent so much time helping out other users, along with the great support from Anthem have convinced me to purchase a D2. I will be replacing my Lexicon MC12B and DVDO VP50 with the D2 and very much look forward to joining all the rest of you in enjoying the D2.


I did have some problems finding a dealer (the one dealer referenced on the Anthem website just closed their store a couple weeks ago and the other didn't carry the Anthem Statement products). Eventually I was able to find a dealer farther from home and just placed an order with him today. He needs to order it from the factory so it may be a short while before I receive it, but I will have to be patient (is it here yet?).


The D2 will be going into my home theater room and will be fed by a Toshiba HD-XA2 HD DVD player (just received that unit today to replace a Toshiba A1 HD DVD player), a DirecTV HR 20, Comcast HD box, Denon DVD-5910 DVD player and an XBox 360.


If I run into any problems, I know where to come for help







I have already printed out a lot of the useful setup and troubleshooting posts from this thread so I think I should be good to go.


Thanks again for everyone's help in making my decision and I look forward to getting the same enjoyment out of the D2 that all of you have.


Scott


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Welcome Scott!


You'll need one of these:










--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sshearer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will be replacing my Lexicon MC12B and DVDO VP50 with the D2 and very much look forward to joining all the rest of you in enjoying the D2.
> 
> 
> Scott



Scott - you did EXACTLY what I did!


Soon you will be dancing







the D2 Owner's Dance.


I just hope you have a good 1080p display or Projector so you can

visually appreciate the High-Definition experience, along with the

great D2 Audio.


----------



## sshearer

Thanks for the welcomes and the D2 bouncing smiling icon.


I did forget to mention that the D2 will be feeding a Sony Ruby projector that does do a nice job on 1080p. I also forgot to mention that I have a Kaleidescape system that will also be feeding the D2.


Scott


----------



## Malleus

Any rumors on when D3 (or D2 updrade) with Audyssey room correction might be available? The D2 is a great product in so many ways, but there's always an itch for the NEXT GREAT THING


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sshearer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also forgot to mention that I have a Kaleidescape system that will also be feeding the D2.
> 
> 
> Scott



I had a dealer let me play with the Kaleidescape, and it was awesome.


Michael


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sshearer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the welcomes and the D2 bouncing smiling icon.
> 
> 
> I did forget to mention that the D2 will be feeding a Sony Ruby projector that does do a nice job on 1080p. I also forgot to mention that I have a Kaleidescape system that will also be feeding the D2.
> 
> 
> Scott



I also have the D2 feeding a Ruby. I don't have the Kaleidescape though











I think DrHankz still has his Ruby as well, at least until the next Sony pj comes out










If you haven't got the Ruby calibrated yet, do it. A calibrated Ruby and the D2 is a gorgeous match.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Malleus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any rumors on when D3 (or D2 updrade) with Audyssey room correction might be available? The D2 is a great product in so many ways, but there's always an itch for the NEXT GREAT THING



Room EQ is still rumored to be in the works for this year. The rumor is it will involve free software (both on the D2 and on a PC) and a calibrated mic that will be sold separately for several hundred dollars. The idea is that some customers might install the software but lean on their dealer to actually buy the mic and do the setup. Others would buy their own personal mic. Some features would be accessible via the D2 alone. More advanced stuff would involve using the PC during setup. The PC is not involved after the setup is installed into the D2. Rumors are fun. Some of them might even be true.


If you can believe the reports of Our Far Flung Correspondents, the word from CES just past was not to expect a D3 this year.


On the other hand, a LEVESQUE who shall remain nameless, recently let slip that Anthem was about to announce some big, unexpected news. Shortly thereafter he was carted off by men in black helicopters.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I wonder if that Anthem news had anything to do with the rumor that Anthem will be selling rebadged JVC RS1's?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I want it to be clearly understood that this has nothing whatsoever to do with Bose Corporation.....

--Bob (yeah, that's the ticket!) P.


----------



## sshearer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you haven't got the Ruby calibrated yet, do it. A calibrated Ruby and the D2 is a gorgeous match.



Actually I was fortunate enough to have William Phelps do the calibration on my Ruby.


Scott


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think DrHankz still has his Ruby as well, at least until the next Sony pj comes out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Yup - I love my Ruby and I'll hang onto it until Sony

Release the Diamond that I saw at CES.


----------



## mr_fitz

I received my D2 yesteday after 4 long weeks of waiting. So far I am very impressed with the sound quality but I am having difficulties with the picture. I have not gone into the '7' button menu as of yet for setting up picture and cropping and stuff but have only used the setup function.


The problem I am having is that on 480p video output to my projector there is columns of black bars all the way across the screen approx every two inches that are about an inch wide. In the setup menu I can read the text as it appears normal but about 5 inches to the left I see an outline of the same letters. It is worse on this format of output than any other. The black bars and picture shift shows up on the D2 menu, dvd menu and the cable tv guide menu as well as when I watch the picture for all 3.


I tried 1080i video output and the vertical black lines are not as predominent as in 480p output but are still visible. The shifting of picture and text is also still apparent but is now only about 3 inches shifted to the left.


On 720p video output the vertical black lines are pretty much gone and the picture shift is not as bad as 1080i or 480p output but it is still visible.


Someone please help!!


I am using a sharp 480p projector hooked up to the D2 via component.

I have a sony dvpns-999es dvd player hooked up to the D2 via component. It is set to output 480i.

I have a SA8300HDPVR cable box hooked up to the D2 via component. It is set to output 1080i.


My D2 came loaded with software 1.11 but I don't know how to check which version of 1.11?


Hopefully someone knows what is going on here? and I hope I have given enough information for someone to help.


Thanks in advance


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am using a sharp 480p projector hooked up to the D2 via component.



MY GOD Mr. Fitz - I don't want to sound brash - but hooking

a D2 to a 480p Projector is like trying to put a F1 Engine in

a Volkswagen Beetle.


I didn't think any one on this planet had less than a 720p

Projector.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> MY GOD Mr. Fitz - I don't want to sound brash - but hooking
> 
> a D2 to a 480p Projector is like trying to put a F1 Engine in
> 
> a Volkswagen Beetle.
> 
> 
> I didn't think any one on this planet had less than a 720p
> 
> Projector.




BABY STEPS..BABY STEPS


Best damn suped up beetle out there










I will get my 1080p projector in the fall.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BABY STEPS..BABY STEPS
> 
> 
> Best damn suped up beetle out there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will get my 1080p projector in the fall.










I would suspect that since you are running component into a projector that you are seeing power line interference (call it hum if you will, same reason) or reflections from a long cable. I would try putting your D2 and projector together (like right next to each other), and see if it's better (use as short a cable as you can). Also make sure they are plugged into the same outlet (if the projector is not 3-prong, you can also try reversing the plug). If it does go away, then at least you know what it is. If that works, try the same thing with the long cable (assuming it's possible). At least then you will know what it is...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I received my D2 yesteday after 4 long weeks of waiting. So far I am very impressed with the sound quality but I am having difficulties with the picture. I have not gone into the '7' button menu as of yet for setting up picture and cropping and stuff but have only used the setup function.
> 
> 
> The problem I am having is that on 480p video output to my projector there is columns of black bars all the way across the screen approx every two inches that are about an inch wide. In the setup menu I can read the text as it appears normal but about 5 inches to the left I see an outline of the same letters. It is worse on this format of output than any other. The black bars and picture shift shows up on the D2 menu, dvd menu and the cable tv guide menu as well as when I watch the picture for all 3.
> 
> 
> I tried 1080i video output and the vertical black lines are not as predominent as in 480p output but are still visible. The shifting of picture and text is also still apparent but is now only about 3 inches shifted to the left.
> 
> 
> On 720p video output the vertical black lines are pretty much gone and the picture shift is not as bad as 1080i or 480p output but it is still visible.
> 
> 
> Someone please help!!
> 
> 
> I am using a sharp 480p projector hooked up to the D2 via component.
> 
> I have a sony dvpns-999es dvd player hooked up to the D2 via component. It is set to output 480i.
> 
> I have a SA8300HDPVR cable box hooked up to the D2 via component. It is set to output 1080i.
> 
> 
> My D2 came loaded with software 1.11 but I don't know how to check which version of 1.11?
> 
> 
> Hopefully someone knows what is going on here? and I hope I have given enough information for someone to help.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance



Power up the D2 and press the select button on the remote once. The version of the software is displayed at the end of the first line of status info on the front panel display, and, usually, on the TV. If it says "V1.11" you have the original V1.11 software. This is what I would expect you would get from the factory.


My first thought is that you have the 1080i input bug which is being triggered by your 8300 being set to 1080i.


You can verify this as follows:


1) Set each video source device, to output 720p or less. Do this even if you don't intend to test video from that source. Do it for ALL your video sources. ANY source sending 1080i or 1080p to the D2 can trigger this bug and screw up video from other sources.


2) Set the D2's output resolution to 720p or less in the Setup / Video Output menu. Back out of that menu and accept the change.


3) Power cycle the D2. This is the essential step to clear the bug.


If this gets you clean video then you have been bitten by the 1080i bug. Contact Anthem tech support for a test software version -- most likely V1.11e at this point.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would suspect that since you are running component into a projector that you are seeing power line interference (call it hum if you will, same reason) or reflections from a long cable. I would try putting your D2 and projector together (like right next to each other), and see if it's better (use as short a cable as you can). Also make sure they are plugged into the same outlet (if the projector is not 3-prong, you can also try reversing the plug). If it does go away, then at least you know what it is. If that works, try the same thing with the long cable (assuming it's possible). At least then you will know what it is...



Not hum interference since there was no problem with my receiver before the D2 arrived and in the same setup.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Power up the D2 and press the select button on the remote once. The version of the software is displayed at the end of the first line of status info on the front panel display, and, usually, on the TV. If it says "V1.11" you have the original V1.11 software. This is what I would expect you would get from the factory.
> 
> 
> My first thought is that you have the 1080i input bug which is being triggered by your 8300 being set to 1080i.
> 
> 
> You can verify this as follows:
> 
> 
> 1) Set each video source device, to output 720p or less. Do this even if you don't intend to test video from that source. Do it for ALL your video sources. ANY source sending 1080i or 1080p to the D2 can trigger this bug and screw up video from other sources.
> 
> 
> 2) Set the D2's output resolution to 720p or less in the Setup / Video Output menu. Back out of that menu and accept the change.
> 
> 
> 3) Power cycle the D2. This is the essential step to clear the bug.
> 
> 
> If this gets you clean video then you have been bitten by the 1080i bug. Contact Anthem tech support for a test software version -- most likely V1.11e at this point.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,


I will try tomorrow night. To perform a Power cycle does it consist of turning off then on only and not physically unplugging power and/or connectors?


It did say V1.11


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> I will try tomorrow night. To perform a Power cycle does it consist of turning off then on only and not physically unplugging power and/or connectors?
> 
> 
> It did say V1.11



To clear this bug, if in fact that's what's going on, it is sufficient to just use the power off/on functions from the remote control after you have eliminated any 1080i/1080p inputs and output. You don't have to use the D2's rear panel power switch, nor physically disconnect wall power.


Now you may have something entirely different going on here, but this is the first thing to try.

--Bob


----------



## bool

I finally have the basement finshed and the AVM50 up and running. I managed to split the HDMI signal from my Dish HD Receiver to the Anthem and to a second HD LCD using a Gefen 2x2 switcher/splitter. The Anthem processes the signal to my Sony 60" KDS2020 at 1080P and the other HDMI signal is unprocessed at 1080i to the second TV. I am still working on getting the best picture, but it is definitely getting better especially after reading some of Bob's tips.


----------



## Don O’Brien

To all those considering the use of the rear IR inputs consider the following information: Utilizing and industry standard infrared system- in this case a powered xantech ir distribution block being fed from an in-room IR target wired to the input of the block, and via 1 output of the block I hardwired to IR input on the back of the D2.


Single input codes to switch conventional inputs and to manipulate the volume and the all aspects of the Setup Menu went without incident during the installation. But, all of the 3 step macros to change inputs (only necessary if you need to utilize Multiple DVD,TV, or Sat inputs) and select audio modes (as described in the users manual) were unreliable when correctly programmed into the pronto TSU7000. I can manually execute the individual learned codes that make up the macros and have the specified "discrete" macro function correctly. I varied all of the typical parameters including delay time, duration of individual IR constituents, and number of times each IR code was executed. I could get the macros to work in one instance, and then with subsequent re-test have the macro not function correctly.


Bring the remote to the processor and shoot the macros directly at the processor and they all function without issue.


BE AWARE IF YOU USE THE REAR INFRARED PORTS WITH MULTI-STEP MACROS AND CONVENTIONAL IR SYSTEMS, YOUR MACROS MAY BE UNRELIABLE. YOU MAY BE ABLE TO CORRECT THE PROBLEM BY USING AN EMITTER ON THE FACE OF THE UNIT.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To clear this bug, if in fact that's what's going on, it is sufficient to just use the power off/on functions from the remote control after you have eliminated any 1080i/1080p inputs and output. You don't have to use the D2's rear panel power switch, nor physically disconnect wall power.
> 
> 
> Now you may have something entirely different going on here, but this is the first thing to try.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I switched my SA8300HDPVR to output 720p instead of 1080i like you said. My dvd is set to output 480i. That is all I have hooked up to the D2 for video. I turned off the D2, turned off and on the rear switch and went back into the D2 menu to see if it has been fixed and nothing is changed. If I output 480i from the D2 then everything is fine. No black vertical lines and no ghosting image shift. But switch to 480p, 720p or 1080i output and back comes the ghosted image always shifted to the left by 2-5 inches depending on the output resolution.


What next?


I also noticed during a dvd movie last night that 3 times the picture went to a blue screen and a second or two later the picture kicked back on.


----------



## PooperScooper

Doesn't sound good, mr_fitz.







Do you have any other HDTV you can try? 480i is probably the minimum signal bandwidth coming out of the D2 and if going higher makes the issue worse it does sound like something is "broken" in the analog output path somewhere (unless you can connect to a HDMI/DVI input and verify one way or other). This fits in with what a poster above mentioned about reflection with analog output. It appears something is altering the video timings as you go higher in output frequency.


larry


----------



## ILJG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The RS1/HD1 will not convert anything to 24fps. If you input at 24p, then it will display it at some multiple of 24 (I believe 48Hz) without judder.
> 
> 
> I bought both of my HD players (XA2 and PS3) on the promise that they would both be upgraded to output 1080p/24. This has not happened yet to either player, and who knows if it ever will.
> 
> 
> So, is the D2 capable of doing a proper 1080i/60 or 1080p/60 to 1080p/24 conversion if the input is sourced from 24p material (as in the case of both HD formats)? If so, then I am ecstatic! I didn't think it could do this....
> 
> 
> 
> -Dave





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, the D2 is supposed to do this. This is not just for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray content, but also for viewing movies in broadcast TV -- which of course are also film-rate content embedded in a faster video-rate stream by the trick of adding replicated fields in the appropriate cadence.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately there is a bug in the current D2 software which apparently causes it to lose track of the field repeat cadence. Anthem is aware of this and is working on it. 1080p/24Hz input to 1080p/24Hz ouput is not affected by this bug.



Has this been addressed in a firmware yet?


I'm shuffling components around and looking for a new projector and receiever since my old one and speakers are about 8 or 9 years old now. I'd really like to be sure that if I'm going to drop $5-6k on the D2 that it will take my HD-A1's 1080i60 and give me a smooth and valid 1080p24 signal to my projector (looking at the Pearl and JVC pretty closely, both capable of the multiples of 24 refresh rates).


If not, is there an estimate as to when this will be addressed. I'd think non-juddery output would be a big deal for many enthusiasts.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Don O'Brien* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To all those considering the use of the rear IR inputs consider the following information: Utilizing and industry standard infrared system- in this case a powered xantech ir distribution block being fed from an in-room IR target wired to the input of the block, and via 1 output of the block I hardwired to IR input on the back of the D2.
> 
> 
> Single input codes to switch conventional inputs and to manipulate the volume and the all aspects of the Setup Menu went without incident during the installation. But, all of the 3 step macros to change inputs (only necessary if you need to utilize Multiple DVD,TV, or Sat inputs) and select audio modes (as described in the users manual) were unreliable when correctly programmed into the pronto TSU7000. I can manually execute the individual learned codes that make up the macros and have the specified "discrete" macro function correctly. I varied all of the typical parameters including delay time, duration of individual IR constituents, and number of times each IR code was executed. I could get the macros to work in one instance, and then with subsequent re-test have the macro not function correctly.
> 
> 
> Bring the remote to the processor and shoot the macros directly at the processor and they all function without issue.
> 
> 
> BE AWARE IF YOU USE THE REAR INFRARED PORTS WITH MULTI-STEP MACROS AND CONVENTIONAL IR SYSTEMS, YOUR MACROS MAY BE UNRELIABLE. YOU MAY BE ABLE TO CORRECT THE PROBLEM BY USING AN EMITTER ON THE FACE OF THE UNIT.



Don, have you gone through the process to diasable the front IR receivers in the D2 so that only the wired control on the back is active? It's not disabled automatically simply by wiring to the back control. See page 38 of the V1.1x manual.


You may also need to disable the rear IR connections that you are not using.


The Pronto puts out a bright enough IR light that it is possible that the D2 is seeing IR commands through multiple inputs and that's why the macros are getting confused.


If that doesn't do it for you, give Anthem tech support a call and they'll work through the issue with you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I switched my SA8300HDPVR to output 720p instead of 1080i like you said. My dvd is set to output 480i. That is all I have hooked up to the D2 for video. I turned off the D2, turned off and on the rear switch and went back into the D2 menu to see if it has been fixed and nothing is changed. If I output 480i from the D2 then everything is fine. No black vertical lines and no ghosting image shift. But switch to 480p, 720p or 1080i output and back comes the ghosted image always shifted to the left by 2-5 inches depending on the output resolution.
> 
> 
> What next?
> 
> 
> I also noticed during a dvd movie last night that 3 times the picture went to a blue screen and a second or two later the picture kicked back on.



This is not good. It sounds like your video board is broken.


First, make sure the ventilation space around your D2 is adequate. This is a given of course, but it's worth repeating.


Since you are using Component video output, make sure that Setup / Video Output/ Preferred = COMPONENT.


Next, presuming you still have the problem, back completely out of the Setup menu, select a video input that is showing the problem, press and hold the "7" key to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu and report whether the display of that menu itself ALSO shows the problem. Presuming the Video Source Adjust menu displays well enough to read, go to the Output panel, scroll down to Frame Lock and verify that it is OFF. Back out of that and go to the Info panel and report the input AND output values the D2 says it is using for this source.


Whether or not you can get those Info values, Back out of the Video Source Adjust menu (I'm presuming you still have the problem at this point), press the Select key on the remote multiple times and report all of the status values displayed for input and output. You can see this on the Front Panel if the TV video is too bad to use. We won't need your D2 serial #. I'm just looking for anything telling in the input and output video and audio values.


---------------------------------------------


There were fixes to analog video input (including Component) in the V1.11g test software. Unfortunately, that software was broken in other significant ways. By now Anthem may have new test software that includes those fixes without the bugs. The analog video fixes were with respect to 480i input, which is the resolution where you are NOT having a problem, so this is a long shot.


Another thing to try would be to go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and Reload Factory Defaults, followed by re-entering all of your Setup menu items manually. It would be best to jot down your Setup stuff before you do this. I would suggest you re-enter your Setup stuff manually rather than Save/Restore in the D2 menu or reloading from a file saved on the PC. What I'm thinking is that some setting might have been corrupted, so saving and restoring settings might just return that corrupted setting.


If you want to go the full route on this:


1) Note your settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults

3) Re-install the V1.11e firmware you have

4) Reload Factory Defaults

5) Manually re-enter your settings


Another thing to try would be to eliminate the possibility that you have a Ground Loop. A Ground Loop is power that travels between devices along the shields of the cables connecting them. It plays havoc with the electronics. The most common symptom is loud, 60Hz hum out of the subwoofer, but analog video problems can also occur. The most common source of Ground Loop power getting into your system is a cable TV feed line that has not been properly grounded at the point where it enters your house. To test for this, power everything off, disconnect EVERYTHING from the D2 except for wall power and the Component cables to your display. Disconnect everything from your display except for wall power and the incoming Component cables. Turn on the display and the D2 and bring up the D2's Setup menu to see if video is now working better. You won't need any source devices connected to do this test. If that eliminates your problem, then we can help you locate and eliminate the Ground Loop.


However, I suspect your video board has a hardware fault and that none of this will really clear it. You may have to work with Anthem to swap out the unit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ILJG* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has this been addressed in a firmware yet?
> 
> 
> I'm shuffling components around and looking for a new projector and receiever since my old one and speakers are about 8 or 9 years old now. I'd really like to be sure that if I'm going to drop $5-6k on the D2 that it will take my HD-A1's 1080i60 and give me a smooth and valid 1080p24 signal to my projector (looking at the Pearl and JVC pretty closely, both capable of the multiples of 24 refresh rates).
> 
> 
> If not, is there an estimate as to when this will be addressed. I'd think non-juddery output would be a big deal for many enthusiasts.



No fix has been reported here.


I think it would be a good idea for you to call Anthem tech support and see what they have to say on an ETA for a fix. Apparently a number of the video processor companies are fighting this right now as well, so it seems it is not just an Anthem problem, but I'd be inclined to believe Anthem is likely to be one of the first to get it right.


You should also make it clear to your dealer that the D2 purchase is contingent on this working.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I finally have the basement finshed and the AVM50 up and running. I managed to split the HDMI signal from my Dish HD Receiver to the Anthem and to a second HD LCD using a Gefen 2x2 switcher/splitter. The Anthem processes the signal to my Sony 60" KDS2020 at 1080P and the other HDMI signal is unprocessed at 1080i to the second TV. I am still working on getting the best picture, but it is definitely getting better especially after reading some of Bob's tips.



I'm glad your splitter is working out for you. I don't have a lot of faith in such gadgets at this point.


Let us know when you are ready to join the silly grins and hopping up and down in glee club!


--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No fix has been reported here.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

What exactly is broken here? I tried the 1080i from my XA2 though the D2 outputting 1080p/24 to the RS1 and it made things worse. Almost like a slow motion effect during pans. I've read a good bit of this thread(not all) but don't recall seeing this discussed.


Never mind, I see you already answered above.

Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> I will try tomorrow night. To perform a Power cycle does it consist of turning off then on only and not physically unplugging power and/or connectors?
> 
> 
> It did say V1.11



Hang on, Mr Fitz! I lost track of who I was helping. I thought you'd already gone to V1.11e software.


Since you have the original V1.11 software, one of the first things you should try is to upgrade to the V1.11e test software, available from Anthem tech support. It may still turn out that you have a hardware problem, but there are enough important fixes in that V1.11e software that it is definitely worth a shot before you go through the effort of swapping out hardware.


Be sure to follow the upgrade instructions carefully. In particular, be sure that ALL HDMI source and display connections are powered down before you install the software. To be safe, disconnect HDMI source and display devices from wall power to make sure they don't have their HDMI connections to the D2 live when in "stand by".

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hang on, Mr Fitz! I lost track of who I was helping. I thought you'd already gone to V1.11e software.
> 
> 
> Since you have the original V1.11 software, one of the first things you should try is to upgrade to the V1.11e test software, available from Anthem tech support. It may still turn out that you have a hardware problem, but there are enough important fixes in that V1.11e software that it is definitely worth a shot before you go through the effort of swapping out hardware.
> 
> 
> Be sure to follow the upgrade instructions carefully. In particular, be sure that ALL HDMI source and display connections are powered down before you install the software. To be safe, disconnect HDMI source and display devices from wall power to make sure they don't have their HDMI connections to the D2 live when in "stand by".
> 
> --Bob



BOB - I think recommending BETA software for Mr. Fitz is a MISTAKE.


Look at what he is working with.


My recommendation for Mr. Fitz is NOT TO RUN ANY VIDEO through the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BOB - I think recommending BETA software for Mr. Fitz is a MISTAKE.
> 
> 
> Look at what he is working with.
> 
> 
> My recommendation for Mr. Fitz is NOT TO RUN ANY VIDEO through the D2.



I don't see any downside with the equipment he's using at the moment, and if the alternative is swapping out hardware, a test software install is certainly worth a shot.


Anthem is likely going to want him to try it anyway even if they start the wheels rolling in parallel for the hardware swapout.


[Mr. Fitz, both DRHANKZ and I are happily running on the original V1.11 software right now, and have seen plenty of people here reporting problems with the various test software versions. The V1.11e version seems to be the most stable of the lot, and has fixes for both HDMI and Component video that just might fix your problem or help isolate what's going wrong. But the problem you are reporting has not been reported here before so this is just another shot in the dark.]

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't see any downside with the equipment he's using at the moment, and if the alternative is swapping out hardware, a test software install is certainly worth a shot.
> 
> 
> Anthem is likely going to want him to try it anyway even if they start the wheels rolling in parallel for the hardware swapout.
> 
> 
> [Mr. Fitz, both DRHANKZ and I are happily running on the original V1.11 software right now, and have seen plenty of people here reporting problems with the various test software versions. The V1.11e version seems to be the most stable of the lot, and has fixes for both HDMI and Component video that just might fix your problem or help isolate what's going wrong. But the problem you are reporting has not been reported here before so this is just another shot in the dark.]
> 
> --Bob



His projector can only do 480. THAT IS IT.


What is D2 video going to do for 480 - it should just

pass it through. Doing anything else is ridiculous!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> His projector can only do 480. THAT IS IT.
> 
> 
> What is D2 video going to do for 480 - it should just
> 
> pass it through. Doing anything else is ridiculous!



480i output is working for him. 480p is failing. Apparently the video board is having problems.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 480i output is working for him. 480p is failing. Apparently the video board is having problems.
> 
> --Bob



It is more likely his PJ can't do 480p.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is more likely his PJ can't do 480p.



Could be. Mr. Fitz, you said you were using a Sharp 480p projector at the moment. Which model #? Are you sure it is designed to accept Component 480p video input?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Could be. Mr. Fitz, you said you were using a Sharp 480p projector at the moment. Which model #? Are you sure it is designed to accept Component 480p video input?
> 
> --Bob



ALSO - I doubt anyone can see a difference between 480i and 480p.


Garbage IN is still garbage at the end of the day.


It's just NTSC and that's all she wrote.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is more likely his PJ can't do 480p.



I was actually thinking the same thing....or something similar anyway. I would not rule out the projector as a source of the problem here.


As someone else mentioned, I would recommend hooking the D2 up to another display, capable of 720p, or 1080i etc.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau[/quote* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the D2 is supposed to do this. This is not just for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray content, but also for viewing movies in broadcast TV -- which of course are also film-rate content embedded in a faster video-rate stream by the trick of adding replicated fields in the appropriate cadence.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately there is a bug in the current D2 software which apparently causes it to lose track of the field repeat cadence. Anthem is aware of this and is working on it. 1080p/24Hz input to 1080p/24Hz ouput is not affected by this bug.



I continue to be a little confused on this issue.


Does this "bug" affect ALL D2's? I thought there were people with the D2 that were using the Toshiba HD-A1 feeding 1080i/60 to the D2, and having the D2 send 1080p/24 to their projector.


Is this not accurate?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was actually thinking the same thing....or something similar anyway. I would not rule out the projector as a source of the problem here.
> 
> 
> As someone else mentioned, I would recommend hooking the D2 up to another display, capable of 720p, or 1080i etc.



You can also run 480p from your 8300 into the sharp projector to verify it's 480p input capability.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I continue to be a little confused on this issue.
> 
> 
> Does this "bug" affect ALL D2's? I thought there were people with the D2 that were using the Toshiba HD-A1 feeding 1080i/60 to the D2, and having the D2 send 1080p/24 to their projector.
> 
> 
> Is this not accurate?



I believe the only successes that have been reported by HD-DVD and Blu-Ray users are 1080i/60Hz to 1080p/60Hz, and 1080p/24Hz to either 1080p/24Hz or 1080p/48Hz.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does this "bug" affect ALL D2's? I thought there were people with the D2 that were using the Toshiba HD-A1 feeding 1080i/60 to the D2, and having the D2 send 1080p/24 to their projector.
> 
> 
> Is this not accurate?



I have the Toshiba and I never ever tried to convert 1080i/60

to 1080p/24.


The reason I never tried is because when I ran 1080p/24 from

the Pioneer Blu-Ray to the D2 and then to my Ruby at 1080p/24.

*IT SUCKED*.

















Even though the Ruby will accept 1080p/24 - 1080p/60 is

orders of magnitude better.


----------



## drhankz

What is the STATUS of your BOAT LOAD of new Gear?


Why aren't you playing with it YET?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the Toshiba and I never ever tried to convert 1080i/60
> 
> to 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> The reason I never tried is because when I ran 1080p/24 from
> 
> the Pioneer Blu-Ray to the D2 and then to my Ruby at 1080p/24.
> 
> *IT SUCKED*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the Ruby will accept 1080p/24 - 1080p/60 is
> 
> orders of magnitude better.



It should not be that way.










I hope Anthem gets this fixed ASAP.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It should not be that way.



THAT IS LIFE WITH A RUBY.


It is not a Diamond!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It should not be that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope Anthem gets this fixed ASAP.



Rob, the Ruby has its own issues.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the STATUS of your BOAT LOAD of new Gear?
> 
> 
> Why aren't you playing with it YET?




Funny you ask!










My Pioneer Elite BD player is supposed to be here TODAY! Since I am dealing with Magnolia HT, who knows if it will actually show up though. I am going to call shortly.


The JVC RS1 will be here MONDAY.










The only piece currently MIA is the D2.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It should not be that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope Anthem gets this fixed ASAP.



With the 1080p/24 Ruby Configuration - it has NOTHING

in the WORLD to do with Anthem. It is a Ruby Deficiency

that Sony can fix it 10 seconds and WON'T. Don't me

started on that ISSUE.


I have the Schematics and I am 1000000000% Sure

the could fix it in 10 seconds.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> His projector can only do 480. THAT IS IT.
> 
> 
> What is D2 video going to do for 480 - it should just
> 
> pass it through. Doing anything else is ridiculous!



Dr. Hank Z, I disagree, and so would Nick and others at Anthem. I had a long talk with him back when I was doing some very early testing of an early release of code for the D2. According to Nick, every video source that is brought into the D2 gets immediately scaled by the Gennum chip to 1080p, period, there is no choice in the matter...then, the edge enhancements, cropping, color setting tweaks, etc. are then applied, and the Gennum always outputs a progressive signal, always, no exceptions. To allow interlaced outputs, Anthem included a separate interlacer separate of the Gennum chipset, to output for instance 1080i or 480i, etc. In the case of outputting "lower numbers", such as 720p, the Gennum takes every source input, again deinterlaces and/or scales everything to 1080p immediately, tweaks the signal based on customer settings, then outputs whatever lower-numbered output is chosen in video output menu 6. So, 720p can be achieved, as can many other outputs, including 480p, as would be done in Mr. Fitz's case.


To say there are no benefits to Mr. Fitz routing video thru the D2 is misleading. He can enjoy an improved picture from all his sources, though the improvements will be on the subtle side when limited by a native 480p projector. Of course, when he gets a new projector or set down the road, he'll be able to take more full advantage of the Gennum video processing at that time.


Good luck Mr. Fitz...I think Bob's recommendation of checking Frame Lock settings is a good one...the other troubleshooting steps Bob documented are right on (as usual). But this is definitely a weird one here, totally stumped on what it could be.


-Brian


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Funny you ask!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Pioneer Elite BD player is supposed to be here TODAY! Since I am dealing with Magnolia HT, who knows if it will actually show up though. I am going to call shortly.
> 
> 
> The JVC RS1 will be here MONDAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only piece currently MIA is the D2.



Lets be a bit more accurate - as of today they are ALL MISSING IN ACTION


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob, the Ruby has its own issues.
> 
> --Bob



I know, I am aware of that. But there is still an issue with the D2 converting 1080i/60 to 1080p/24, and that is what I am concerned about.


This is actually quite disappointing to me.


I mean it isn't a big deal with the Pioneer since I can do 1080p/24 out of the player.


But I was hoping to get 1080p/24 out of the D2 from the Toshiba A1.


It just doesn't seem that I am getting much benefit from the video processing of the D2 with the above two sources. I guess the majority of benefit will be with SD DVD, using 480i input.


Which actually raises another question: what should I output from the D2 to the RS1 with SD DVD? 1080p/60?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lets be a bit more accurate - as of today they are ALL MISSING IN ACTION













Can't argue with that!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know, I am aware of that. But there is still an issue with the D2 converting 1080i/60 to 1080p/24, and that is what I am concerned about.
> 
> 
> This is actually quite disappointing to me.
> 
> 
> I mean it isn't a big deal with the Pioneer since I can do 1080p/24 out of the player.
> 
> 
> But I was hoping to get 1080p/24 out of the D2 from the Toshiba A1.
> 
> 
> It just doesn't seem that I am getting much benefit from the video processing of the D2 with the above two sources. I guess the majority of benefit will be with SD DVD, using 480i input.
> 
> 
> Which actually raises another question: what should I output from the D2 to the RS1 with SD DVD? 1080p/60?



No argument with any of that. This is definitely something Anthem needs to deal with. I'm surprised they haven't at least offered the temporary workaround that Kris Deering suggested of adding a Film Mode = ON setting to keep the Anthem from dropping back into video mode when these glitches happen, and thus not removing the replicated film-rate fields in the video stream.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No argument with any of that. This is definitely something Anthem needs to deal with. I'm surprised they haven't at least offered the temporary workaround that Kris Deering suggested of adding a Film Mode = ON setting to keep the Anthem from dropping back into video mode when these glitches happen, and thus not removing the replicated film-rate fields in the video stream.
> 
> --Bob



Well, that makes two of us that are "surprised" given Anthem's supposed reputation for quickly responding to issues such as this and issuing a fix via firmware upgrade.


Has Kris talked to Nick about this directly? I would think that Kris would have a little extra pull given his credentials. What is Nick's current stance on this issue?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, that makes two of us that are "surprised" given Anthem's supposed reputation for quickly responding to issues such as this and issuing a fix via firmware upgrade.
> 
> 
> Has Kris talked to Nick about this directly? I would think that Kris would have a little extra pull given his credentials. What is Nick's current stance on this issue?



I don't have any inside info on this, but my guess would be they are working the issue with Gennum.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't have any inside info on this, but my guess would be they are working the issue with Gennum.
> 
> --Bob



Is it more than just the implementation of the chip? How hard is it to add a "Film Mode = On" mode?


Do other VP's using the Gennum have a problem doing this, such as the Crystalio II? I guess I could head to that thread to find out...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it more than just the implementation of the chip? How hard is it to add a "Film Mode = On" mode?
> 
> 
> Do other VP's using the Gennum have a problem doing this, such as the Crystalio II? I guess I could head to that thread to find out...



Kris implied it was turning out to be a common problem.


I can only assume the simple workaround didn't, urh, work.


=========================================


EDITED TO ADD: Lest people get too concerned, I should point out that the Gennum chip obviously knows how to do this correctly since otherwise it would be screwing up de-interlacing of 480i to 480p and 1080i to 1080p.


There is usually some "hysteresis" built into these algorithms so that the inevitable glitches in the video stream don't cause the film mode processing to give up too soon, or fail to restore after a glitch. My guess would be that the Gennum firmware just needs a tweak to that -- specific to /24Hz output, but they probably have to test it in a variety of hardware combos to be sure.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it more than just the implementation of the chip? How hard is it to add a "Film Mode = On" mode?
> 
> 
> Do other VP's using the Gennum have a problem doing this, such as the Crystalio II? I guess I could head to that thread to find out...



And as a FORMER DVDO VP50 Owner - I can tell you they

don't do it right either. It is something they are working on.


----------



## Randall Morton

I was looking forward to having smooth pans also. This is one of the first things I tried after I got the RS1 connected. Really disappointing. Hopefully there will be a fix soon.


----------



## drhankz

DOESN'T ANYONE ENJOY THE SHOW?

I swear all the people on AVS are here just to find faults.


Sit back and enjoy the GREAT SHOW which all this new Technology ENABLES


----------



## ILJG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And as a FORMER DVDO VP50 Owner - I can tell you they
> 
> don't do it right either. It is something they are working on.




Wow. All I can say, is.....wow.


I feel like the little kid who just found out that Santa Clause isn't real. Or that a certain baseball team deliberately threw the World Series.


All this time I assumed the heavy hitters like the VP50, Crystalio II and D2 could take 1080i60 (or even 1080p60 for that matter) and successfully deliver judder/free 1080p24. I'm so bummed, because judder drives me nuts.


And the HD DVD content I've grown to love just can't be sent out at 1080p24 no matter what hardware I buy. (In fact, I think the Pioneer BD player is the only high def DVD player that can)













And one more time....for good measure.....wow.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> DOESN'T ANYONE ENJOY THE SHOW?



I







do!

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ILJG* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> (In fact, I think the Pioneer BD player is the only high def DVD player that can



Yes you are right on the Pioneer - I love it


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do!
> 
> --Bob



HOW IS THAT POSSIBLE?


Do you operate on a 48 hour day.


You must because you seem to be in two places at once


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ILJG,

Patience my son, judder will be eliminated.


And what's all this about no Santa Claus?

--Bob


----------



## ILJG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes you are right on the Pioneer - I love it



I see...that's why you can be all smug and tell the rest of us to chillax...you've GOT 1080p24.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I had to look up some of my emails, as I remembered I had discussed this 1080p/24 issue with Nick. Here is his response (please let me know if anyone feels it is not appropriate to post an email response from Nick here and I will consider removing it, but I think it should be ok):



> Quote:
> Frame Lock was added in v1.10 software, but it appears that the confusion doesn't end there.
> 
> 
> You're referring to inverse telecine, and it is a different matter, one we're trying to implement but is not easy because sources alternate between 3:2 and 2:2 cadences, not just in the bonus materials (i.e. video camera interview mixed with film clips) but during the film as well, where computer graphics are involved. Even if this works, there's another matter to deal with - how projectors would handle it, because they usually take a few seconds to lock on and what you could end up with is a lot of blank screen between edits.
> 
> 
> To prevent further confusion, film mode and inverse telecine are not the same thing - film mode detects and deconstructs 3:2 input before it goes into the processor (and if input is 60 Hz, output should be 60p) whereas inverse telecine is reversal of 24p to 30i conversion (and output would be 24p).
> 
> 
> The only way to guarantee smooth motion, at least until inverse telecine can be implemented (I have no idea when that might be) is to avoid telecine, for example with Blu-ray which is natively 24p.
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Nick



So they are aware of it, are working on it, but there is no idea on when it will be implemented.


----------



## ILJG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ILJG,
> 
> Patience my son, judder will be eliminated.
> 
> 
> And what's all this about no Santa Claus?
> 
> --Bob




Um...ah....er....nothing. I'm sure he'll be around, hopefully sooner than Christmas to give us D2 firmware updates to fix the problem!







(Looks like the Easter Bunny missed his chance in this regard!)


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So they are aware of it, are working on it, but there is no idea on when it will be implemented.



It is always hard to say when anyone wil SOLVE an UNSOLVABLE

PROBLEM. Nick accurately describes the unsolvable problem when

he says ---


You're referring to inverse telecine, and it is a different matter, one we're trying to implement but is not easy because sources alternate between 3:2 and 2:2 cadences, not just in the bonus materials (i.e. video camera interview mixed with film clips) but during the film as well, where computer graphics are involved. Even if this works, there's another matter to deal with - how projectors would handle it, because they usually take a few seconds to lock on and what you could end up with is a lot of blank screen between edits.


DVDO has been trying to solve this problem LONGER than ANYONE.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HOW IS THAT POSSIBLE?
> 
> 
> Do you operate on a 48 hour day.
> 
> 
> You must because you seem to be in two places at once



We here at "Bob Pariseau" add staff as necessary to insure quality service.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We here at "Bob Pariseau" add staff as necessary to insure quality service.
> 
> --Bob



NOW I GET IT - how you can do Sooooooooo Much.


There are more than one of you


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is always hard to say when anyone wil SOLVE an UNSOLVABLE
> 
> PROBLEM. Nick accurately describes the unsolvable problem when
> 
> he says ---
> 
> 
> You're referring to inverse telecine, and it is a different matter, one we're trying to implement but is not easy because sources alternate between 3:2 and 2:2 cadences, not just in the bonus materials (i.e. video camera interview mixed with film clips) but during the film as well, where computer graphics are involved. Even if this works, there's another matter to deal with - how projectors would handle it, because they usually take a few seconds to lock on and what you could end up with is a lot of blank screen between edits.
> 
> 
> DVDO has been trying to solve this problem LONGER than ANYONE.



I don't see this as unsolvable.


The /24Hz video stream existed in pristine form at one point. It was raised to /30Hz by duplicating fields in the standard cadence. The duplicate fields can be detected and removed to restore the original /24Hz video.


What Nick is talking about is that sometimes edits and graphics are done in the film at video rate. True enough. But this is all dealt with BEFORE the player puts out either 1080p/24Hz output or 1080i/60Hz output derived from it. The point is, the 1080p/24Hz that went into that process can be recovered.


Now when players do overlay of extras, that is a 60i stream mixed into the 24p stream. Only one of them can be perfect (until we get into the world of 120Hz video). No big deal, you give priority to the 24p stream. Again the Anthem doesn't SEE any of this complexity. It just sees either a 24p stream or a 60i stream that's been derived from that 24p stream.


The problem is that edits cause the repeat cadence to skip a step or two. The algorithm that is detecting and removing the repeated fields has to re-sync with the new cadence.

--Bob


----------



## 3Dfx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> NOW I GET IT - how you can do Sooooooooo Much.
> 
> 
> There are more than one of you



I'm thinking clones. Would the real Bob Pariseau please stand up.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Dr. Hank Z, I disagree, and so would Nick and others at Anthem. I had a long talk with him back when I was doing some very early testing of an early release of code for the D2. According to Nick, every video source that is brought into the D2 gets immediately scaled by the Gennum chip to 1080p, period, there is no choice in the matter...then, the edge enhancements, cropping, color setting tweaks, etc. are then applied, and the Gennum always outputs a progressive signal, always, no exceptions. To allow interlaced outputs, Anthem included a separate interlacer separate of the Gennum chipset, to output for instance 1080i or 480i, etc. In the case of outputting "lower numbers", such as 720p, the Gennum takes every source input, again deinterlaces and/or scales everything to 1080p immediately, tweaks the signal based on customer settings, then outputs whatever lower-numbered output is chosen in video output menu 6. So, 720p can be achieved, as can many other outputs, including 480p, as would be done in Mr. Fitz's case.
> 
> 
> To say there are no benefits to Mr. Fitz routing video thru the D2 is misleading. He can enjoy an improved picture from all his sources, though the improvements will be on the subtle side when limited by a native 480p projector. Of course, when he gets a new projector or set down the road, he'll be able to take more full advantage of the Gennum video processing at that time.
> 
> 
> Good luck Mr. Fitz...I think Bob's recommendation of checking Frame Lock settings is a good one...the other troubleshooting steps Bob documented are right on (as usual). But this is definitely a weird one here, totally stumped on what it could be.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Interesting and informative post Brian, thanks.


If I am sending a 1080p/24 signal to the D2 and the same from the D2 to the projector, is there still some processing going on, or is there some type of "pass through" mode?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting and informative post Brian, thanks.
> 
> 
> If I am sending a 1080p/24 signal to the D2 and the same from the D2 to the projector, is there still some processing going on, or is there some type of "pass through" mode?



I would THINK the only processing would be parameters

that you have told the D2 to change on the way through.


Like Stretching and Cropping and Gamma and stuff like that.

Video Parameters that you want to tweak.


----------



## Krops

I'm attempting to connect a D2 to a PC over digital. Digital Out 1 (SPIDF) on the Anthem is connected to a SPIDF input on the sound card using 50' Monoprice RCA.


Digital Out 1 is an output of the REC path, and the D2 can route any input to REC. This allows recording of a source you are not necessarily watching - a nice feature.


My problem is most sources do not work. What I've found so far:

DVD player (Arcam DV79) over SPIDF: works

DVD player (Arcam DV79) over HDMI: fails

Cable box (SA 8300HD) over SPDF: fails

Cable box (SA 8300HD) over HDMI: fails

Xbox360 over Toslink: fails

PC out over SPDIF: works (PC recording what is is outputting)


"fails" means the PC was unable to play the output from the D2. I normally get a loud constant static on failed sources.


So in my setup, the D2 only outputs usable SPIDF digital output when the source connects to the D2 over RCA SPIDF (but not always).


Has anyone else played with this before? I could not find anything in the manual stating a limitation on which sources with with digital out. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Krops,

You can't send any HDMI audio to a digital Record output because of HDMI copy protection. See manual section 2.2.


For the two cases where SPDIF input failed to come out, the most likely explanation is that you didn't correctly "Copy" the selected source to the Record path. By default, Copying is done manually on a per input basis. You can set the Main path to always Copy to the Record path in Setup / Source Select. See manual sections 3.5 and 4.3.


It is also just possible that you have to change the sampling rate between 44.1 and 48KHz in Setup / ADC, Audio Output to account for the difference between audio on CDs and audio from TV programs. I'm not sure about this. See manual section 3.7.

--Bob


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now that my D2 is being fed cooler air, the blue screen problems have gone (or are in hiding).
> 
> 
> But... having had a chance to actually watch some BD movies, I find that with PCM input I get a "static" noise overlaying the audio, but only with the PS3. Change the PS3 to bitstream and the noise is gone. HD-A1 with PCM has no such noise -- only PS3. I hear it on headphones as well, so the cause is not downstream of the D2. The noise is not loud, but clearly audible with a dialog-level soundtrack.
> 
> 
> Any ideas on how to diagnose? All suggestions cheerfully accepted.




I have noticed it as well, but only with Buena Vista BD. I heard it in King Arthur and then threw in Ice Age II and it was gone. It also apears in Reign of Fire.


Jeremy


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 480i output is working for him. 480p is failing. Apparently the video board is having problems.
> 
> --Bob



Sorry Bob but I looked more carefully at 480i output from the D2 and it has the same shifted image as the rest of the outputs but not as bad as the others.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is more likely his PJ can't do 480p.



my projector handles 480p fine directly from the dvd player.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Could be. Mr. Fitz, you said you were using a Sharp 480p projector at the moment. Which model #? Are you sure it is designed to accept Component 480p video input?
> 
> --Bob



Sharp DT-100 projector and yes it works fine with 480p input signal directly.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sharp DT-100 projector and yes it works fine with 480p input signal directly.



OK. I'm going to stick with the tests I suggested earlier. Odds are you've got a problem in the video board, but check out the things I suggested while waiting for Anthem tech support to reopen for business.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz

Bob,


No ground loop problems as I unhooked everything from the D2 with only the component cable running from D2 to projector and problem still occurs.


In the '7' menu the problems are there as well. In the menu I see the shifted image and in viewing the color bars test patterns I can see vertical lines in places where there should be no lines.


Frame lock is off.


I will try a reload of factory defaults and if that does not work I will contact Nick for version 1.11e.


Thanks for the help everyone


----------



## drmabuse

Hi,

Anyone had any experiences with "specks and horizontal white lines" on 1080p? They seem to be erratic and go from really bad to barely there and back again. I have tried all the usual unplugging/plugging and settings but they are still there.

I just developed this tonite on my Blu-Ray HDMI in. My 1080p HD-DVD and 1080i Cable box seem to be fine so it is not the HDMI to my plasma.

Could this be an HDMI cable going bad?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Anyone had any experiences with "specks and horizontal white lines" on 1080p? They seem to be erratic and go from really bad to barely there and back again. I have tried all the usual unplugging/plugging and settings but they are still there.
> 
> I just developed this tonite on my Blu-Ray HDMI in. My 1080p HD-DVD and 1080i Cable box seem to be fine so it is not the HDMI to my plasma.
> 
> Could this be an HDMI cable going bad?



Sparklies like that are bit dropouts -- lost data in the HDMI transmission -- and usually indicate a marginal cable, or a cable that is too long. You can also get them if you are going through adapters or connectors as there is some signal degradation with each of those.


1080p puts much higher demand on the HDMI connection than 1080i. If you get a clean signal at 1080i and sparklies at 1080p, you may need to upgrade or shorten your cable. You may also be getting this if the cable is not fully seated in the sockets or if there is corrosion forming on the pins.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sparklies like that are bit dropouts -- lost data in the HDMI transmission -- and usually indicate a marginal cable, or a cable that is too long. You can also get them if you are going through adapters or connectors as there is some signal degradation with each of those.
> 
> 
> 1080p puts much higher demand on the HDMI connection than 1080i. If you get a clean signal at 1080i and sparklies at 1080p, you may need to upgrade or shorten your cable. You may also be getting this if the cable is not fully seated in the sockets or if there is corrosion forming on the pins.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob!

The lengths are short so now comes the fun of switching crap around!

Appreciate the always valuable help/feedback.

WRC


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob!
> 
> The lengths are short so now comes the fun of switching crap around!
> 
> Appreciate the always valuable help/feedback.
> 
> WRC



Looks like my HDMI 1 input on the D2 is gone...

WRC


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks like my HDMI 1 input on the D2 is gone...
> 
> WRC



I'll tell you - all these darn HDMI connectors are FRAGILE

as heck. All my equipment is rack mounted so nothing

really moves. I have rolled my rack out and back in and

a HDMI cable has move just enough to cause problems.


They look like they are 100% seated and all I need to do

is yet another slight PUSH and everything comes back to

normal.


UNLESS your problem is 100% repeatable - I would not

jump to that conclusion - JUST YET.


Of course even plugging cables in and out can permanently

damage one of these poorly designed HDMI connectors.


It is one of those wonderful







HMDI features will all live with.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll tell you - all these darn HDMI connectors are FRAGILE
> 
> as heck.
> 
> 
> Of course even plugging cables in and out can permanently
> 
> damage one of these poorly designed HDMI connectors.
> 
> 
> It is one of those wonderful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HMDI features will all live with.



I bought a few of these port savers from monoprice and have been quite impressed with them.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...ormat=2&style= 


I don't imagine the extra 8" will hurt. Take that how you will......


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought a few of these port savers from monoprice and have been quite impressed with them.



YUP - Me to - I got 20 of them in last week.


They had been out of stock for some time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Now that more people are using these, it will be interesting to see how many complaints there are that the extra two connection points (assuming a port saver at each end of the cable) are degrading 1080p signals too much.


Boy I really don't see how the higher bandwidth signals for HDMI V1.3 are going to fly in the marketplace if this is the best the cable and connector industry can do.

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks like my HDMI 1 input on the D2 is gone...
> 
> WRC



Had the same happen to me while I was having my heat-related PS3 problems. I "proved" to myself that HDMI1 was dead by swapping inputs and cables, tried "reload factory deafaults" and it came back. Then had it happen again and I powered down, waited a while and HDMI1 came back without reloading factory defaults.


Hasn't happened since, but my D2 is nice and cool now...


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought a few of these port savers from monoprice and have been quite impressed with them.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...ormat=2&style=
> 
> 
> I don't imagine the extra 8" will hurt. Take that how you will......



Paul beat me to it!


I posted a link to these earlier in the thread, and I have 4 of them here waiting for my D2.


Speaking of waiting for my D2.................


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have noticed it as well, but only with Buena Vista BD. I heard it in King Arthur and then threw in Ice Age II and it was gone. It also apears in Reign of Fire.
> 
> 
> Jeremy
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now that my D2 is being fed cooler air, the blue screen problems have gone (or are in hiding).
> 
> 
> But... having had a chance to actually watch some BD movies, I find that with PCM input I get a "static" noise overlaying the audio, but only with the PS3. Change the PS3 to bitstream and the noise is gone. HD-A1 with PCM has no such noise -- only PS3. I hear it on headphones as well, so the cause is not downstream of the D2. The noise is not loud, but clearly audible with a dialog-level soundtrack.
> 
> 
> Any ideas on how to diagnose? All suggestions cheerfully accepted.
Click to expand...


Update on audio ticks and pops using PCM from PS3:


I've checked 5 BDs (Flyboys, Casino Royale, Chicago, The Departed, Blackhawk Down) and all of them exhibit this, but to varying degrees. Flyboys is the worst, CR noticable on a very few scenes, and with the others you have to listen carefully to hear it at all.


Here is a link to 40 seconds of Flyboys. It's in wav format (7MB) as mp3 compression filters out most of the ticks. The left channel on the wav is the left surround from the movie, which exhibits the noise. The right channel on the wav is the left front channel of the movie.


Here are pics of one of the "ticks". The tick (seen here on the green/left channel) is *very* short as can be seen from the second pic where the zoom level is down to discrete bits at 44.1kHz):






















I'm posting a similar message on the Blu-Ray Players forum.


----------



## Catdaddy67




> Quote:
> Quote:
> 
> Originally Posted by 3no
> 
> Now that my D2 is being fed cooler air, the blue screen problems have gone (or are in hiding).
> 
> 
> But... having had a chance to actually watch some BD movies, I find that with PCM input I get a "static" noise overlaying the audio, but only with the PS3. Change the PS3 to bitstream and the noise is gone. HD-A1 with PCM has no such noise -- only PS3. I hear it on headphones as well, so the cause is not downstream of the D2. The noise is not loud, but clearly audible with a dialog-level soundtrack.
> 
> 
> Any ideas on how to diagnose? All suggestions cheerfully accepted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have noticed it as well, but only with Buena Vista BD. I heard it in King Arthur and then threw in Ice Age II and it was gone. It also apears in Reign of Fire.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Isnt bitstream what we need to out the audio from the PS3 at to get lossless audio? So if I have it set to output bitstream I get lossless audio and no clicking?


Looks like Ill be getting my AVM50 on the 11th. If the dealer gets it overnighted to them, which I hope happens as I have been waiting on this damn thing for a LONG time.


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Isnt bitstream what we need to out the audio from the PS3 at to get lossless audio? So if I have it set to output bitstream I get lossless audio and no clicking?
> 
> 
> Looks like Ill be getting my AVM50 on the 11th. If the dealer gets it overnighted to them, which I hope happens as I have been waiting on this damn thing for a LONG time.



Hey Mike,


You have them backwards, Bitstream will decode in the player and give you DD, DTS etc. and Linear PCM will give it to you RAW







and let the PRE/PRO do the processing.


Jeremy


P.S. I still think you should of went after the D2.


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Update on audio ticks and pops using PCM from PS3:
> 
> 
> I've checked 5 BDs (Flyboys, Casino Royale, Chicago, The Departed, Blackhawk Down) and all of them exhibit this, but to varying degrees. Flyboys is the worst, CR noticable on a very few scenes, and with the others you have to listen carefully to hear it at all.




I have switched HDMI cables and it is still there. A friend hasn't updated his PS3 to 1.6 yet (I think he is still on 1.54) and his has the popping as well going through his D1-HD. I'll keep an eye on the PS3 thread as well to see if is happening with other receivers (was also going to say pre/pros but that's right, "there can be only one"







).


Jeremy


----------



## Catdaddy67




> Quote:
> Hey Mike,
> 
> 
> You have them backwards, Bitstream will decode in the player and give you DD, DTS etc. and Linear PCM will give it to you RAW and let the PRE/PRO do the processing.
> 
> 
> Jeremy
> 
> 
> P.S. I still think you should of went after the D2.



Can the Anthems decode lossless audio? I thought we wanted the PS3 and the Toshibas to decode the lossless tracks and send it into the receiver?


Im trying to set a good example for my wife - some financial restraint. 8( Bought an HD1, a Panamorph lens, an AVM50, a carada screen, and a whole bunch of BDs and HD-DVDs. 8)


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can the Anthems decode lossless audio? I thought we wanted the PS3 and the Toshibas to decode the lossless tracks and send it into the receiver?



There is no receiver on the PLANET - YET - that can decode

lossless Audio.


There is no High-Def DVD authored to allow decode of the

lossless audio OUTSIDE of the player.


There is no Version 1.3 Receivers and very few Players

with Version 1.3 .


So that answer is NO NO NO.


BUT WHO CARES - I have been enjoying lossless audio

on HD DVD and Blu-Ray with my D2, since September.


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can the Anthems decode lossless audio? I thought we wanted the PS3 and the Toshibas to decode the lossless tracks and send it into the receiver?
> 
> 
> Im trying to set a good example for my wife - some financial restraint. 8( Bought an HD1, a Panamorph lens, an AVM50, a carada screen, and a whole bunch of BDs and HD-DVDs. 8)



Wow, at least you have a chance to get some of the stuff setup before the AVM50 shows up.


I'm sorry, I should have been more clear. The Anthems will do the post processing to PCM ie: THX Ultra 2 cinema, Dolby Pro-Logic IIx, Anthem Logic Cinema etc. but as drhankz said there is no way to get the "new audio formats" yet. The processing in the Anthems is astounding to say the least so you will not be disappointed







.


Jeremy


----------



## Catdaddy67




> Quote:
> BUT WHO CARES - I have been enjoying lossless audio
> 
> on HD DVD and Blu-Ray with my D2, since September.



This is what I have been saying. The PS3 decodes the lossless tracks and sends it bitstream to the D2. So you dont really need PCM, because you can send DTS and DD, non lossless, by bitstream too.


So clicking with PCM is a non-issue for me.


No need to apologize, I just wanted to make sure that I was still getting an AVM50. If there were problems with lossless audio via bitstream and with 1080p24 too then I was going to go a different way.


----------



## Catdaddy67

Some of the stuff is setup, but it looks like I am buying my neighbor's house and he is going to rent mine by May 1, so I am holding off on my 2.35 setup til then. Though I do have all my gear ready to go. 8)


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is what I have been saying. The PS3 decodes the lossless tracks and sends it bitstream to the D2. So you dont really need PCM, because you can send DTS and DD, non lossless, by bitstream too.
> 
> 
> So clicking with PCM is a non-issue for me.




Bitstream is lossy, not lossless. While about double the typical rate of DVD, it is still lossy.


PCM is THE way to go for full audio, albeit 5.1.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Hang on guys, you are getting yourselves confused by terminology here.


The underlying digital audio for all of these new audio formats is multi-channel, high bandwidth PCM. There is one PCM stream for each intended speaker -- 6 streams for a 5.1 audio track.


Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA pack up the set of PCM streams into one, single "bitstream" -- compressing the data at the same time. This is like zipping up a folder of files on your computer into one, smaller "zip file".


And as with a zip file, decoding a Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD MA bitstream results in the original set of multi-channel, high bandwidth PCM streams. Since TrueHD and DTS-HD MA are "lossless" packing formats, what results when you decode them is bit for bit identical to the PCM that went into the encoder in the studio.


[Don't confuse these new "lossless" bitstreams with the older, traditional "lossy" bitstreams used by standard DVDs or HDTV -- Dolby Digital and DTS. Those packing formats discard some quality and what comes out of decoding those is lower quality than what went in. Those bitstreams are decoded inside the D2 and AVM-50.]


Some Blu-Ray discs include "PCM" audio tracks. These, too, are high bandwidth audio tracks and can best be thought of as "pre-decoded" TrueHD or DTS-HD MA.


Now you can get full quality audio from these tracks in two ways. The player can decode them into their component PCM and then you send the PCM to the next stage of the audio system. Or you can send the UNdecoded TrueHD or DTS-HD MA bitstream to a separate device (a receiver or pre/pro) for decoding. However, what comes out of the decoder in such a receiver or pre/pro is the IDENTICALLY SAME PCM that the player would produce if it did the decoding.


As it turns out, there is currently no way to send the UNDECODED bitstream to any receiver or pre/pro. That requires HDMI V1.3 on both the player and receiver -- as well as a receiver with a decoder -- and there are no such receivers today.


But you can still play these audio tracks at full quality if the PLAYER does the decoding and the receiver accepts the resulting PCM and does the rest.


And that's the way the Anthem Statement D2 and Anthem AVM-50 work. Today.


Now there are players today that decode Dolby TrueHD tracks. And there are also those "pre-decoded" PCM tracks on some Blu-Ray discs. But there are no players, and for that matter no receivers, today that decode DTS-HD MA tracks.


DTS-HD MA tracks are on discs because the way they are constructed makes it easy for the player to extract the "lossy" DTS "core" audio track that the player is required to offer for compatibility with older or less capable receivers. But NOBODY can play them at full quality today.


DTS-HD MA decoders have been delayed due to details being worked out between DTS and the hardware manufacturers. But that will change soon, and as soon as it does you can expect that DTS-HD MA decoders will show up in players. They will also show up in new HDMI V1.3 receivers. But again, if you buy a player with the decoder, or a player that gets upgraded to include the decoder, you need no decoder in your receiver or pre/pro. And in particular the Anthem D2 and AVM-50 will play those tracks, at full quality, just as they do today with TrueHD tracks -- i.e., by playing the decoded PCM version received over HDMI.


The D2 and AVM50 "do the right thing" with such incoming PCM. This includes speaker configuration management, bass steering, and audio post processing such as Dolby Pro Logic IIx processing to raise 5.1 channel input to 7.1 speaker output, or THX post processing.


So the PS3 does decode, but what it sends to the D2 is not a "bitstream" but rather a set of PCM streams.


And the Anthems can't receive the UNdecoded "bitstreams" for TrueHD or DTS-HD MA tracks, but despite that you can play the TrueHD format at full quality through the Anthems today using a player that has a TrueHD decoder, and the same will be true for DTS-HD MA tracks in the future when players add DTS-HD MA decoders. No change is needed in the D2 or AVM-50 for this to work.


Typically what you want for an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player is an "auto" setting that sends decoded PCM to the Anthem when playing a PCM or TrueHD track (or a DTS-HD MA track in the future) and sends the "lossy" DD5.1 or DTS bitstream to the Anthem when playing standard DVDs.


========================

EDIT: Beware, we've had reports here that the "auto" setting in the Toshiba XA2 player does not work in the expected fashion. Check earlier in this thread for comments on how to set the XA2 for best audio output. It also pays to track the player forum threads for your player for setup tips. For example, the Toshiba players have been widely panned for upsampling audio to 96Khz (when the actually high quality tracks are 48KHz) and doing a lousy job of it. It is apparently possible to set the Toshibas so that they don't do that.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Bob, you summed that up absolutely beautifully!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, you summed that up absolutely beautifully!



He did as always, but I thought "*PCM is THE way to go for full audio*" was more succinct.


----------



## Catdaddy67

So, does the PS3 send it out with the "bitstream" setting to get lossless audio, as I understand it, or do I have to set the PS3 to linear PCM?


Its been my understanding that the PS3 has to be set to output bitstream, with the DVD set to the "lossless" - but still lossy apparently- tracks, for the capable receiver to do the lossless audio. I could be completely wrong here.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, does the PS3 send it out with the "bitstream" setting to get lossless audio, as I understand it, or do I have to set the PS3 to linear PCM?
> 
> 
> Its been my understanding that the PS3 has to be set to output bitstream, with the DVD set to the lossless tracks, for the capable receiver to do the lossless audio. I could be completely wrong here.



I don't have a PS3, so I'm not certain of the answer here, however you can easily tell what the D2 is receiving by pressing the Select button on the remote multiple times to cycle through the status displays for bit rate, and pressing the Mode button for the status display on input type.


If you discover you are receiving DD 5.1 or DTS when playing an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray disc then have things set incorrectly in the player. You have told the player to send the lower quality "core" or "compatibility" audio track.


If you discover you are receiving 2-channel PCM when playing a standard DVD disc then you also have things set incorrectly in the player. You have told the player to send a stereo mixdown of the surround audio track instead of the traditional DD5.1 or DTS bitstream.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, does the PS3 send it out with the "bitstream" setting to get lossless audio, as I understand it, or do I have to set the PS3 to linear PCM?
> 
> 
> Its been my understanding that the PS3 has to be set to output bitstream, with the DVD set to the "lossless" - but still lossy apparently- tracks, for the capable receiver to do the lossless audio. I could be completely wrong here.



Rudolpht's answer is the most SUCCINCT
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post10246254


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> He did as always, but I thought "*PCM is THE way to go for full audio*" was more succinct.













More succinct, yes. But Bob's post _explained why_ *PCM is THE way to go for full audio*!


----------



## Catdaddy67

Oh well. Yes!


Ill have to check it out with a PS3 and use the mode button! Thanks Bob, Jeremy, and Rudolph!


Rob, did you pick up your RS1 from UPS?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh well. Yes!
> 
> 
> Ill have to check it out with a PS3 and use the mode button! Thanks Bob, and Rudolph!
> 
> 
> Rob, did you pick up your RS1 from UPS?



It's FedEx, and no. And I seriously doubt that it was even an option that I had. Even though tracking showed it was at their facility in L.A. on Saturday, I dont think they would have let me go pick it up. I will get it tommorrow (Monday) though!


----------



## Catdaddy67

Damn, I hope noone took it home for the weekend. 8)


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More succinct, yes. But Bob's post _explained why_ *PCM is THE way to go for full audio*!



I think he explained why as most of us know why including the state of having HD players CODECs doing the decoding (still hoping the DS3 will do 7.1 PCM like the PS3 can put out), but it was a play on words, lighthearted, as you said he summed it up. Summation is typically short.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think he explained why as most of us know why including the state of having HD players CODECs doing the decoding (still hoping the DS3 will do 7.1 PCM like the PS3 can put out), but it was a play on words, lighthearted, as you said he summed it up. Summation is typically short.



Got ya.


Well, I guess it is all relative. Bob actually could have gone into a lot more detail than he did in discussing all these audio formats/issues. So in that sense it was still a "summary".


What you posted, was more "succinct"!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Damn, I hope no one took it home for the weekend. 8)



I wish I had it for the weekend! It will be hard making it through work this week knowing my new toy is waiting to be played with. Of course the RS1 will be nothing compared to when the D2 comes given the overwhelming options/settings available! I imagine the learing curve will be quite a bit more difficult than the RS1 as well. Thank goodness I have this thread to come to for help!


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Krops,
> 
> You can't send any HDMI audio to a digital Record output because of HDMI copy protection. See manual section 2.2.
> 
> 
> For the two cases where SPDIF input failed to come out, the most likely explanation is that you didn't correctly "Copy" the selected source to the Record path. By default, Copying is done manually on a per input basis. You can set the Main path to always Copy to the Record path in Setup / Source Select. See manual sections 3.5 and 4.3.
> 
> 
> It is also just possible that you have to change the sampling rate between 44.1 and 48KHz in Setup / ADC, Audio Output to account for the difference between audio on CDs and audio from TV programs. I'm not sure about this. See manual section 3.7.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks very much. Digital out is now working as expected for all sources after copying MAIN to REC. What threw me was some sources were working by just changing the REC path source without copying MAIN.


On a different topic, do you happen to know how the S-Video out works? Section 4.2 in the manual suggests the picture will be output over S-VIDEO for recording purposes, but all I can seem to get to show up on the S-Video out (MAIN) is the Setup menu. Otherwise, blank from several sources. Thanks in advance.


----------



## yourlilbro

Hey guys heres a question before I jump on the D2 wagon:


1. Does the D2 upconvert from all inputs to 1080p or only S-video, Component, and HDMI?


Thanks guys,


Farhan


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys heres a question before I jump on the D2 wagon:
> 
> 
> 1. Does the D2 upconvert from all inputs to 1080p or only S-video, Component, and HDMI?
> 
> 
> Thanks guys,
> 
> 
> Farhan



The D2 is a real VP. It converts any input to 1080p.


But ONLY on the HDMI output.


----------



## djhamilton

I am thinking of picking up a Toshiba HD-A2 since they are pretty cheap now. They output 1080i instead of 1080p, but my question is wouldn't that be better for the AVM50 to get a 1080i signal and let it process to 1080p to my VW50 (pearl) projector? I am thinking this would be a better option than the 2X higher price HD-A20.


Any help is appreciated on this subject.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> YUP - Me to - I got 20 of them in last week.
> 
> 
> They had been out of stock for some time.



6 in my case. Yup, the connectors are awful. Anything to protect them.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djhamilton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am thinking of picking up a Toshiba HD-A2 since they are pretty cheap now. They output 1080i instead of 1080p, but my question is wouldn't that be better for the AVM50 to get a 1080i signal and let it process to 1080p to my VW50 (pearl) projector? I am thinking this would be a better option than the 2X higher price HD-A20.
> 
> 
> Any help is appreciated on this subject.



1080i from the player - to 1080p, via the D2 to the Pearl

looks great.


But with the HD-A20 shipping with 1080p - I don't see the

reason for not ordering the HD-A20 for $449 which includes

7 FREE HD DVDs and Free Shipping from Robert at Value Electronics 


WHY buy anything that is obsolete - the day you buy it?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 is a real VP. It converts any input to 1080p.
> 
> 
> But ONLY on the HDMI output.



Slight correction. You can process any S-video, Component, or HDMI video input (scaling, etc.) and get up to 1080p/60Hz on the HDMI output and up to 1080p/30Hz (1080i/60Hz) on the Component output. PLEASE NOTE HOWEVER: Copy protected HDMI source video (which pretty much is all HDMI video that's interesting) can't be sent to the Component output.


S-video and Composite video inputs and outputs are, by their very nature, only 480i. Composite video is only "pass through" -- Composite in to Composite out.


Since the Component inputs and outputs support up to 1080p/30Hz, it is possible, for example, that Component 1080p/24Hz might be useful to some people even when scaled up from a different source.


The Component inputs and outputs ALSO support UNPROCESSED video at 1080p/60Hz. Unprocessed video is simply "passed through" from an input to the same style of output. That means Component in to Component out and the resolution is unchanged.

--Bob


----------



## lizard_king

Long time lurker, first time poster...


I had my favorite AV company in on Saturday installing a new projector - the Epson Pro Cinema 1080 (aka TW-1000 in europe) - they could not get the video (regardless of source) working through the AVM50. The AVM50 was previously installed by them and worked through component to a Toshiba RPT. They used a component switcher to get it working for the weekend - I messed with it for a while and got it working through Component2 UNPROCESSED.I am assuming this means that the AVM50 is just doing video switching. ANything going through a processed path (Component or HDMI) does not make it to the display.




I have tried a LARGE number of different things, including the video output setup options from post #1 of this forum. Basically any video processed by the avm will not display - HDMI or Component - anything obvious to try - I believe I tried all of the 1920X1080p output settings - as well as normal and inversed for Signal -


Does anyone else have the Epson 1080 projector?????




BTW - one thing I found out that seems like a bug (?) - when I go from unprocessed on comp2 to processed - the screen goes blank - then when I go BACK to unprocessed - should work, right? - it does not display again until I go back to the source's screen and cycle through the inputs until I get back to the one the source is connected to.hmmm




Help -




Bill



I am running 1.11


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1080i from the player - to 1080p, via the D2 to the Pearl
> 
> looks great.
> 
> 
> But with the HD-A20 shipping with 1080p - I don't see the
> 
> reason for not ordering the HD-A20 for $449 which includes
> 
> 7 FREE HD DVDs and Free Shipping from Robert at Value Electronics
> 
> 
> WHY buy anything that is obsolete - the day you buy it?



Unless the HD-A20 does 1080p/24 (I think it only does 1080p/60) I see no advantage to having this over an HD-DVD player that only outputs 1080i, as you simply have the D2 do the deinterlacing to 1080p. The Gennum excels at this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On a different topic, do you happen to know how the S-Video out works? Section 4.2 in the manual suggests the picture will be output over S-VIDEO for recording purposes, but all I can seem to get to show up on the S-Video out (MAIN) is the Setup menu. Otherwise, blank from several sources. Thanks in advance.



See Manual section 2.1. Simply put, to get S-video output you need to have S-video input.


If your source device happens to have both Component/HDMI and S-video outputs live at the same time, you can set the Setup / Source Select for that source to send either the Component or HDMI to the scaler for normal display use and ALSO specify which S-video jack to use (in the S-video input line). The Component or HDMI video will be processed for the Main outputs and the S-video will be "passed through" unprocessed to the S-video output jacks (including Tape and VCR).


If the primary output for your source device is S-video, then you send S-video to the scaler in the scaler line while specifying which S-video jack to use in the S-video input line. The S-video input will be processed for Main display output, and will still also be "passed through" unprocessed to the S-video output jacks (including Tape and VCR).


I haven't actually tried this, but I believe the Tape and VCR S-video outputs will have the same output signal at all times, and that will be the S-video appropriate for the source device selected in the Record path. If you have Copied Main to Record, that should be the source device selected in the Main path.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Long time lurker, first time poster...
> 
> 
> I had my favorite AV company in on Saturday installing a new projector - the Epson Pro Cinema 1080 (aka TW-1000 in europe) - they could not get the video (regardless of source) working through the AVM50. The AVM50 was previously installed by them and worked through component to a Toshiba RPT. They used a component switcher to get it working for the weekend - I messed with it for a while and got it working through Component2 UNPROCESSED.I am assuming this means that the AVM50 is just doing video switching. ANything going through a processed path (Component or HDMI) does not make it to the display.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried a LARGE number of different things, including the video output setup options from post #1 of this forum. Basically any video processed by the avm will not display - HDMI or Component - anything obvious to try - I believe I tried all of the 1920X1080p output settings - as well as normal and inversed for Signal -
> 
> 
> Does anyone else have the Epson 1080 projector?????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW - one thing I found out that seems like a bug (?) - when I go from unprocessed on comp2 to processed - the screen goes blank - then when I go BACK to unprocessed - should work, right? - it does not display again until I go back to the source's screen and cycle through the inputs until I get back to the one the source is connected to.hmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bill
> 
> 
> 
> I am running 1.11



Bill, the first thought is that you've been bitten by the 1080i/1080p video bug that is in V1.10 and V1.11 and affects a small percentage of owners. Anthem tech support can send you a new, test software version -- V1.11e seems to be the best at the moment -- which eliminates this.


To see if that's the problem, set ALL your source devices so that they can output nothing higher than 720p, set your Anthem video output to any resolution 720p or lower, power cycle the Anthem (after making the above changes) and see if things now work. If so, the new software should help.


--------------------------------------------


If you were using 1080i or lower before, and your problem now is with 1080p, it may simply be that your HDMI cable is not of high enough quality to carry the 1080p signal. 1080p puts much higher demands on an HDMI cable. Long cable runs will also be more of a problem at 1080p.


To test this, disconnect the Anthem and move it close to the projector. Try a high quality, new HDMI cable around 1 to 2 meters in length. You won't need any source device to test this -- just see if you can get 1080p video working using the video generated internally in the Anthem (the Setup menu and the test patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu).


--------------------------------------------


Do you have another HDMI 1080p source you can use to verify the HDMI input on your new projector is working at all?


--------------------------------------------


I think I need more info on what you are seeing with the Zone2 Component output. Please note that you can't send copy protected HDMI input (pretty much all HDMI) to any Component output.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just thought I'd point out that this thread has the highest number of posts and the 10th highest number of views of ALL threads in the Amps/Receivers/Processors forum (excluding any threads that have been moved to the archives).


Not bad for such an exotic product.


[And of course now it has yet another post.]

--Bob


----------



## nine ball

I need some help......


I have been experiencing some HD DVD (Toshiba XA2) problems that have been increasing at a steady rate from an initial excellent experience and rating. To date the pic quality remains excellent but the machine has been shutting down with no warning and with no apparent catalyst. It just doesn't freeze, it shuts down power. The case is luke warm not hot. I am beginning to wonder if there is some errant command coming back from the D2 telling it (Xa2) to shut down. I restart the Xa2 and it runs fine for an arbitrary amount of time before it unpredictably shuts off again. I know that the HDMI spec allows for a two way communication protocol to control and manage equipment and I wonder if ........... I know, its probably dumb but I notice that this sudden power down has been raised in the XA2 thread but no one has responded with any attempt to provide a logical explanation for the behaviour. Has anyone here experienced anything similar with the XA2 to the D2????


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I need some help......
> 
> 
> I have been experiencing some HD DVD (Toshiba XA2) problems that have been increasing at a steady rate from an initial excellent experience and rating. To date the pic quality remains excellent but the machine has been shutting down with no warning and with no apparent catalyst. It just doesn't freeze, it shuts down power. The case is luke warm not hot. I am beginning to wonder if there is some errant command coming back from the D2 telling it (Xa2) to shut down. I restart the Xa2 and it runs fine for an arbitrary amount of time before it unpredictably shuts off again. I know that the HDMI spec allows for a two way communication protocol to control and manage equipment and I wonder if ........... I know, its probably dumb but I notice that this sudden power down has been raised in the XA2 thread but no one has responded with any attempt to provide a logical explanation for the behaviour. Has anyone here experienced anything similar with the XA2 to the D2????
> 
> 
> Peter



It is very unlikely there is any sort of communication from the D2 that is causing this. Is the XA2 network connected?


Try this: Set the XA2 to Component video output and optical audio output (so that it doesn't need anything actually connected to the outputs), disconnect everything from the XA2 and play a disc using its Component video outputs (not connected to anything). See if it still shuts down. If so, you know the problem is inside your XA2.


===================================


EDITED TO ADD: One common cause of reports like this is remote control conflicts. Sometimes a device will accept and act on a command that isn't actually intended for it or will misinterpret some other command that IS intended for it. This can happen with remotes from oddball remote controlled devices (like cabling switchers) as well as with mis-programmed programmable remotes.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

I talked to an ISF technician this morning about doing a calibration on my RS1 to the grayscale and to see what he could do to adjust my oversaturated colors. He was reluctant about working on JVCs but I don't think he really knew what an RS1 was. He had heard of the Anthem D2 and knew what it was but I don't think he has ever worked with one.


I'm certain he is a qualified tech and has good equipment.

I'm just wondering if this guy will likely be able to make any significant improvement to the oversaturation using the Live Video Setting Editor. Opinions?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I talked to an ISF technician this morning about doing a calibration on my RS1 to the grayscale and to see what he could do to adjust my oversaturated colors. He was reluctant about working on JVCs but I don't think he really knew what an RS1 was. He had heard of the Anthem D2 and knew what it was but I don't think he has ever worked with one.
> 
> 
> I'm certain he is a qualified tech and has good equipment.
> 
> I'm just wondering if this guy will likely be able to make any significant improvement to the oversaturation using the Live Video Setting Editor. Opinions?



Yes, but he'll need to learn how to work with the R, G, and B custom Gamma Correction curves in Live Video Settings editor.


ISF techs have access to discussion groups with details on particular display devices, and that probably also includes info on video processors. I've no idea what might be out there right now on the RS1 or the D2.


This stuff is not really magic. Once he knows how to get to the controls, and sees what they do, he can measure the results and start homing in on the best solution. The trick is that correcting for a problem in the display like this is likely going to involve compromises in other portions of the imagery. Now this is just what ISF techs do all the time. But figuring out the best compromises takes a little time if this is his first experience with the RS1 and the D2.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is very unlikely there is any sort of communication from the D2 that is causing this. Is the XA2 network connected?
> 
> 
> Try this: Set the XA2 to Component video output and optical audio output (so that it doesn't need anything actually connected to the outputs), disconnect everything from the XA2 and play a disc using its Component video outputs (not connected to anything). See if it still shuts down. If so, you know the problem is inside your XA2.
> 
> 
> ===================================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: One common cause of reports like this is remote control conflicts. Sometimes a device will accept and act on a command that isn't actually intended for it or will misinterpret some other command that IS intended for it. This can happen with remotes from oddball remote controlled devices (like cabling switchers) as well as with mis-programmed programmable remotes.
> 
> --Bob



1. It is network connected..........


2. Although I use the Harmony 880 for the majority of transactions I have observed that I have not had a remote in hand when this behaviour occurs. In fact I purposefully put all remotes down to avoid even the possibility of an inadvertant button press.


3. as usual your logic of disengaging other devices and running it in isolation is probably my best first step I will try that later tonight.


Peter


----------



## Randall Morton

Thanks Bob,

That's kind of what I thought. I can get him into the LVSE but I can't tell him where to set things.







He's going to do some checking and get back to me. He was reluctant about JVCs in general. He mentioned that the last JVC he worked for six or seven hours and was still not satisfied with the colors. I think it will probably be worth a try as the oversaturation really bothers me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> That's kind of what I thought. I can get him into the LVSE but I can't tell him where to set things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He's going to do some checking and get back to me. He was reluctant about JVCs in general. He mentioned that the last JVC he worked for six or seven hours and was still not satisfied with the colors. I think it will probably be worth a try as the oversaturation really bothers me.



It is absolutely mind-boggling to me that the RS1 is selling so well with this known problem and no expectation a fix will be forthcoming shortly.


Projectors are sold to enthusiasts, and every one of them that goes the whole hog for ISF calibration is going to be told their projector doesn't work right.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

Bob,

I wouldn't trade it back for my Dwin. It does so many things well for its price is the reason it is selling well. The D2 is not perfect. When I bought it I fully expected inverse telecine processing, but it doesn't work yet. It is also not a high priority with Anthem at this point. I don't want to send the D2 back because of this. And I would buy it again.


No projector is perfect and I will figure a way out to make the colors better. I liked the colors with my old Dwin DLP and I know they weren't perfect. Knowing what I know now, I would buy the RS1 again. Only other projector I was considering was the Sharp 20K but I though it was too dim and didn't have as good on/off CR. It also cost more.


I expect to be using the D2 three years from now, but I don't think I will be using the same projector and I'm not going to spend $20K plus on what I would like to have today.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Fair enough. I guess my real surprise should be addressed to JVC for thinking noone would notice.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

I find it surprising also. The choice to oversaturate had to be intentional. If they choose not to give you a way to calibrate it, they should at least give you a projector with accurate colors to begin with.


----------



## lizard_king




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bill, the first thought is that you've been bitten by the 1080i/1080p video bug that is in V1.10 and V1.11 and affects a small percentage of owners. Anthem tech support can send you a new, test software version -- V1.11e seems to be the best at the moment -- which eliminates this.
> 
> 
> To see if that's the problem, set ALL your source devices so that they can output nothing higher than 720p, set your Anthem video output to any resolution 720p or lower, power cycle the Anthem (after making the above changes) and see if things now work. If so, the new software should help.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you were using 1080i or lower before, and your problem now is with 1080p, it may simply be that your HDMI cable is not of high enough quality to carry the 1080p signal. 1080p puts much higher demands on an HDMI cable. Long cable runs will also be more of a problem at 1080p.
> 
> 
> To test this, disconnect the Anthem and move it close to the projector. Try a high quality, new HDMI cable around 1 to 2 meters in length. You won't need any source device to test this -- just see if you can get 1080p video working using the video generated internally in the Anthem (the Setup menu and the test patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu).
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Do you have another HDMI 1080p source you can use to verify the HDMI input on your new projector is working at all?
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I think I need more info on what you are seeing with the Zone2 Component output. Please note that you can't send copy protected HDMI input (pretty much all HDMI) to any Component output.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - thanks for your comments - what I am first trying to get working (prior to worrying about HDMI) is plain old Component - as I said, right now it is working when component2 OUT is set to Unprocessed...no matter the source (480i, 720p, 1080i), it is displaying - as soon as I change that setting to Processed - no more video .... and I have tried various settings as the output once I put it in this mode - 720p and 1080i most noteable, since I know the projector can display these - no go....hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm


settings are:


a. s-video osd - ntsc

b. preferred - component

c resolution - tried a few

d color space - auto

e data format - YCbCr 4:2:2 (i think) it only allows one option anyway

f letterbox - whatever

g sync - normal

h component 2 out - processed


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob - thanks for your comments - what I am first trying to get working (prior to worrying about HDMI) is plain old Component - as I said, right now it is working when component2 OUT is set to Unprocessed...no matter the source (480i, 720p, 1080i), it is displaying - as soon as I change that setting to Processed - no more video .... and I have tried various settings as the output once I put it in this mode - 720p and 1080i most noteable, since I know the projector can display these - no go....hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm



OK. The 1080i/1080p bug, if you have it, also affects Component, and screws up processed output at all resolutions once it has been triggered. Changing resolutions alone won't clear the bug. To clear the bug, you have to power cycle the Anthem after changing ALL sources to something other 720p or lower and the Anthem output to something 720p or lower. You may not have the bug, but I wanted to make sure you understood what you need to do to confirm that.


I take it the Main Component video output is also not working and that your video sources are not HDMI, right?


What resolution were you using with your prior display?

--Bob


----------



## lizard_king




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK. The 1080i/1080p bug, if you have it, also affects Component, and screws up processed output at all resolutions once it has been triggered. Changing resolutions alone won't clear the bug. To clear the bug, you have to power cycle the Anthem after changing ALL sources to something other 720p or lower and the Anthem output to something 720p or lower. You may not have the bug, but I wanted to make sure you understood what you need to do to confirm that.
> 
> 
> I take it the Main Component video output is also not working and that your video sources are not HDMI, right?
> 
> 
> What resolution were you using with your prior display?
> 
> --Bob



I will try the bug detection....


I will test the main component as well


My prior display was 1920X1080i/50 or 60


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will try the bug detection....
> 
> 
> I will test the main component as well
> 
> 
> My prior display was 1920X1080i/50 or 60



OK that makes it pretty unlikely you have the 1080i/1080p bug.


Also check Setup / Video Output / Data Format again. You say it only allows one option and that's surprising. I would expect it to offer all 4.


Also check Setup / Source Select for the input sources you are using for testing and make sure that Scaler Input = Component as well as specifying the appropriate Component jack in the Component Video In line.

--Bob


----------



## lizard_king




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will try the bug detection....
> 
> 
> I will test the main component as well
> 
> 
> My prior display was 1920X1080i/50 or 60



tried bug detection - same issue


Main out - same issue


I am stumped...


----------



## lizard_king




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK that makes it pretty unlikely you have the 1080i/1080p bug.
> 
> 
> Also check Setup / Video Output / Data Format again. You say it only allows one option and that's surprising. I would expect it to offer all 4.
> 
> 
> Also check Setup / Source Select for the input sources you are using for testing and make sure that Scaler Input = Component as well as specifying the appropriate Component jack in the Component Video In line.
> 
> --Bob



it only allows for YPbPr when preferred - component


setup shows scalar in = compnent 1 as well as component video in = component 1


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> tried bug detection - same issue
> 
> 
> Main out - same issue
> 
> 
> I am stumped...



Well if you don't spot anything in the Setup / Source Select menu (see my prior post) the next step is probably to go to Setup / Save Restore Settings and do a Reload Factory Defaults.


When that finishes, hook up Main Component output to your projector, power up the Anthem, select an Anthem input that has nothing connected to it, and, using the front panel display, go to Setup / Video Output and manually re-enter your Component 1080i settings.


Back out of the Video Output menu and accept those changes.


If the Setup menu itself does not now come up on your projector, go back in to Setup / Video Output again and see if it will now let you try the other settings of Data Format.


I would expect YCbCr 4:4:4 to be the one your projector wants. [That will actually be sent out as YPbPr 4:4:4 -- the analog video signal version since you are using Component output.] But it may want RGB.


All of this will be independent of any source video since you have selected an empty Anthem input.

--Bob


----------



## lizard_king




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well if you don't spot anything in the Setup / Source Select menu (see my prior post) the next step is probably to go to Setup / Save Restore Settings and do a Reload Factory Defaults.
> 
> 
> When that finishes, hook up Main Component output to your projector, power up the Anthem, select an Anthem input that has nothing connected to it, and, using the front panel display, go to Setup / Video Output and manually re-enter your Component 1080i settings.
> 
> 
> Back out of the Video Output menu and accept those changes.
> 
> 
> If the Setup menu itself does not now come up on your projector, go back in to Setup / Video Output again and see if it will now let you try the other settings of Data Format.
> 
> 
> I would expect YCbCr 4:4:4 to be the one your projector wants. [That will actually be sent out as YPbPr 4:4:4 -- the analog video signal version since you are using Component output.] But it may want RGB.
> 
> 
> All of this will be independent of any source video since you have selected an empty Anthem input.
> 
> --Bob



Before I do this - and risk not seeing 24 tonite because I have to re-enter everything....I CAN see the setup menu when I am viewing Processed video data..does that make any difference?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I find it surprising also. The choice to oversaturate had to be intentional. If they choose not to give you a way to calibrate it, they should at least give you a projector with accurate colors to begin with.



The JVC RS-1/HD-1 are not worst then the Sony Ruby or Pearl if talking about oversaturated colors. I have seen those 3 projectors, and the oversaturation is approximately the same. People in AVS didn't find anything to complain about with the JVC, so they start complaining about oversaturation!










Remember the Ruby and this "awful" brightness compression that everyone was talking about? yes, it,s there. But nothing a good custom gamma curve won't fix. But everyone was talking about that "major" problem like it was the end of the world. It wasn't. It was a MINOR problem.


It's AVS, so they HAD to find something to complain about the JVC and make you think that the world would stop turning because of that "major" problem! But it's the same oversaturation that we have also on the Ruby and Pearl. Alot of manufacturers are fallowing Sony (sadly) in that direction, since it's proven that the "average consumer" will always buy the display showing oversaturated color if side-by-side with a display with accurate colors. BTW, you can't properly fix the oversaturated colors on the Ruby and Pearl also. RCP is not working pretty good also. It's an imperfect band-aid. Not really better then no band-aid if we compare those projectors with the JVC.


Do we see people complain about oversaturated colors with the 2 Sony projectors? No, because they don't need to... because they can complain about the awful auto-iris! That dreadful, shameful, non-natural automatic iris that is SOOOO terrible.










People don't realize that all the manufacturers want is to sell displays. After it's sold, they don't really care what it will look like in your room. They only care about what it will look like in the showroom. So we have oversaturated colors by Sony, and now JVC... JVC and Sony want to move and sell hundred of thousands units at BestBuy and other major chains to joe-6-pack. They don't care about us crazy AVSers. They want to move units in and outr of the showrooms really fast. So oversaturated colors it is!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Before I do this - and risk not seeing 24 tonite because I have to re-enter everything....I CAN see the setup menu when I am viewing Processed video data..does that make any difference?



Yes! I thought you had no video at all!


OK, now we've got something to work with.


--------------------------------------------------------------


Forget about the reload factory defaults for now.


Use the Main Component video connection to your display.


Once again, select an Anthem input that has no video connected to it. Go into Setup / Video Output and confirm your Component 1080i settings are as you think they should be. Back out of Video Output and accept any changes.


At this point the Setup menu should be visible on your projector as Red menus with White text. The background surrounding the Setup menu should be bright blue.


Back out of the Setup menu entirely.


You should now see a full screen of bright blue.


Press and hold the "7" key to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. It should be centered on screen, grayish with black text and some colored icons.


Go to the Output panel and then scroll down to Frame Lock and verify that it is OFF.


Go to the Info panel and verify that the video output resolution you intended to send to your display is in fact showing as what's being sent. There will be no video input figures of course.


Go to the Patterns panel and bring up any of the test bar patterns. They should fill the screen. Use the Back button to exit the test bar pattern.


Are you seeing all of this as I described? If so, the video output THROUGH THE SCALER is working correctly.

--Bob


----------



## lizard_king

please see comments below



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes! I thought you had no video at all!
> 
> 
> OK, now we've got something to work with.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Forget about the reload factory defaults for now.
> 
> 
> Use the Main Component video connection to your display.
> 
> 
> Once again, select an Anthem input that has no video connected to it. Go into Setup / Video Output and confirm your Component 1080i settings are as you think they should be. Back out of Video Output and accept any changes.
> 
> 
> >>>>>>it won't show the menu on 1080i - epson says "not supported" for both 1080i/50 and 1080i/60? - just on 1920C1080p/30 so using that
> 
> 
> At this point the Setup menu should be visible on your projector as Red menus with White text. The background surrounding the Setup menu should be bright blue.
> 
> 
> >>>>>>background NOt bright blue - grey - rest is the same
> 
> 
> Back out of the Setup menu entirely.
> 
> 
> You should now see a full screen of bright blue.
> 
> 
> >>>>grey
> 
> 
> Press and hold the "7" key to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. It should be centered on screen, grayish with black text and some colored icons.
> 
> 
> >>>>>>yes
> 
> 
> Go to the Output panel and then scroll down to Frame Lock and verify that it is OFF.
> 
> 
> >>>>>will NOT let me do this without an active video source selected - everything is greyed out unless I select something with an active source....
> 
> 
> Go to the Info panel and verify that the video output resolution you intended to send to your display is in fact showing as what's being sent. There will be no video input figures of course.
> 
> 
> >>>>>so i used the TV as input and input is 720p (as i selected for output on the DTV receiver) and the output is 1920X1080p30
> 
> 
> Go to the Patterns panel and bring up any of the test bar patterns. They should fill the screen. Use the Back button to exit the test bar pattern.
> 
> 
> >>>>>>>yes
> 
> 
> Are you seeing all of this as I described? If so, the video output THROUGH THE SCALER is working correctly.
> 
> 
> >>>>>>>>>yes except no blue - and the Video adjust is greyed out - it says "video input required"
> 
> 
> --Bob



NOTE - just went in and changed the MAIN OS COLOR to blue from black - it is now BLUE - but when I back out of the menu with OR without a source - it stays BLUE for 1 sec and then goes black


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The blue vs. gray difference is likely because you selected the TV input and it actually had a signal video on it.


Try again, selecting an input that has no video source device connected and you should see the blue.


Is it in fact the case that your Projector is not supposed to be able to accept 1080i/50Hz or 1080i/60Hz over that Component input? The only reason I suggested 1080i is that I thought you had unprocessed 1080i working with the projector earlier.


The fact that 1080i is being rejected by the Projector could be important, but for now let's continue using Component 1080p/30Hz.


------------------------------------------------------


Now the fact that the info panel showed you 720p as input on the TV input means that it is recognizing an input video signal


What cabling are you using from the DTV box? You should be using Component.


NOTE: Some DTV boxes blank out their Component video output if there is an HDMI cable physically connected.

--Bob


----------



## lizard_king

see below



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The blue vs. gray difference is likely because you selected the TV input and it actually had a signal video on it.
> 
> 
> >>>>>>actually shows blue if there is input in the component and it is not turned on - shows black if no input connected at all OR the source is connected but turned off
> 
> 
> Try again, selecting an input that has no video source device connected and you should see the blue.
> 
> 
> >>>no see above
> 
> 
> Is it in fact the case that your Projector is not supposed to be able to accept 1080i/50Hz or 1080i/60Hz over that Component input? The only reason I suggested 1080i is that I thought you had unprocessed 1080i working with the projector earlier.
> 
> 
> >>>yes i had my dtv sending unprocessed 1080i throught the avm to the PJ and it was working fine
> 
> 
> The fact that 1080i is being rejected by the Projector could be important, but for now let's continue using Component 1080p/30Hz.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now the fact that the info panel showed you 720p as input on the TV input means that it is recognizing an input video signal
> 
> 
> What cabling are you using from the DTV box? You should be using Component.
> 
> 
> >>>>>>>yes
> 
> 
> NOTE: Some DTV boxes blank out their Component video output if there is an HDMI cable physically connected.
> 
> 
> >>>>>>>no hdmi connected anywhere except to the back of the PJ right now - hmmmmmmmmm
> 
> --Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 is a real VP. It converts any input to 1080p.
> 
> 
> But ONLY on the HDMI output.



Not True, In section 2.1 if you read it, it states that composite video can not be fed to the D2's video processing section.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Your statement about when you see the all blue screen and when you see the all black screen confused me. Is there a typo in there?


-------------------------------------


Go to Setup / Source Select for your TV input (the DTV box input) and report your current settings.


And I just want to confirm that even though you are seeing no video from the DTV box, the Video Source Adjust / Info panel is saying that it is getting a 720P signal from it? Please report exactly what it is saying about that input signal.

--Bob


----------



## lizard_king

see below



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Your statement about when you see the all blue screen and when you see the all black screen confused me. Is there a typo in there?
> 
> 
> >>>>>>for example - xbox in AUX, turned off, blue screen
> 
> dvd - in DVD1 , plugged in, turned on (no disc in it)- blue screen for 1 sec - then black
> 
> sat - nothing plugged in - black screen, period
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go to Setup / Source Select for your TV input (the DTV box input) and report your current settings.
> 
> 
> >>rename - tv
> 
> scalar input - comp 1
> 
> hdmi repeater - NA
> 
> comp vid in - 1
> 
> s-video in - none
> 
> composite video in - none
> 
> audio in - dig opt1
> 
> auto dig - yes
> 
> hdmi 6ch map - NA
> 
> muting - med
> 
> 
> rest are sound specific
> 
> 
> And I just want to confirm that even though you are seeing no video from the DTV box, the Video Source Adjust / Info panel is saying that it is getting a 720P signal from it? Please report exactly what it is saying about that input signal.
> 
> 
> correct
> 
> 
> >>>video source - component 4:4:4
> 
> signal type - 1280X720p/59.94Hz
> 
> audio source - NA
> 
> film mode - off
> 
> 
> output status
> 
> 
> signal type - 1920X1080p/30Hz
> 
> frame rate - 30.00Hz
> 
> line rate - 33750.00 Hz
> 
> frame lock - inactive
> 
> --Bob



and keep in mind while you are thinking about the problem - that the inputs and outputs work fine in unprocessed - so the connections/cables should be good


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well I'm stumped too.


We've verified the Anthem is generating video output that your projector likes (although there's still the question of what's going on with 1080i output).


We've verified that the Anthem is recognizing the Component 720p signal from the DTV box.


And we've verified that the DTV box is putting out video programming on that Component cable because you can see it when you do "pass through" unprocessed output.


There's really not a lot of the video processing path that we haven't verified.


-------------------------------------------


Try this. Go to Video Source Adjust / Scale Out and try to select No Scaling. That's another way to bypass the scaling of the input. The input should now show as a small image centered in the 1080p image you are sending to the projector.


-------------------------------------------


Another thing to try would be to set the DTV box to 480p output (of an SDTV channel), and then set Video Output to 480p and see what the Info panel reports for input and output.

--Bob


----------



## lizard_king

see below


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I'm stumped too.
> 
> 
> We've verified the Anthem is generating video output that your projector likes (although there's still the question of what's going on with 1080i output).
> 
> 
> We've verified that the Anthem is recognizing the Component 720p signal from the DTV box.
> 
> 
> And we've verified that the DTV box is putting out video programming on that Component cable because you can see it when you do "pass through" unprocessed output.
> 
> 
> There's really not a lot of the video processing path that we haven't verified.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Try this. Go to Video Source Adjust / Scale Out and try to select No Scaling. That's another way to bypass the scaling of the input. The input should now show as a small image centered in the 1080p image you are sending to the projector.
> 
> 
> >>>>shows a black box in the middle of a grey screen
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Another thing to try would be to set the DTV box to 480p output (of an SDTV channel), and then set Video Output to 480p and see what the Info panel reports for input and output.
> 
> 
> >>>>>>panel reports 480p in and 483p out
> 
> 
> I think it is time for my AV professional and Nick to get together and try to fix this
> 
> 
> Bob - you are great to spend all this time with me and others that you do not know on this forum - you have the fast track to heaven when the time comes, my friend!!!!!!
> 
> 
> I will let you know what happens!!!
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well I'm sorry I couldn't figure it out for you. Please do report what gets done to fix it!


There really should be no way you could break the video board this way just by switching projectors.


It's acting as if it recognizes the input signal but is then passing the wrong input to the scaler. Ah well. Nick and crew will put their best brains on it!

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got ya.
> 
> 
> Well, I guess it is all relative. Bob actually could have gone into a lot more detail than he did in discussing all these audio formats/issues. So in that sense it was still a "summary".



Good luck with the new toys. As one of Bob's biggest fans, deserving all the heaped praise he gets, I'm sure his summaries will help your new toys setup.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> See Manual section 2.1. Simply put, to get S-video output you need to have S-video input.
> 
> 
> If your source device happens to have both Component/HDMI and S-video outputs live at the same time, you can set the Setup / Source Select for that source to send either the Component or HDMI to the scaler for normal display use and ALSO specify which S-video jack to use (in the S-video input line). The Component or HDMI video will be processed for the Main outputs and the S-video will be "passed through" unprocessed to the S-video output jacks (including Tape and VCR).
> 
> 
> If the primary output for your source device is S-video, then you send S-video to the scaler in the scaler line while specifying which S-video jack to use in the S-video input line. The S-video input will be processed for Main display output, and will still also be "passed through" unprocessed to the S-video output jacks (including Tape and VCR).
> 
> 
> I haven't actually tried this, but I believe the Tape and VCR S-video outputs will have the same output signal at all times, and that will be the S-video appropriate for the source device selected in the Record path. If you have Copied Main to Record, that should be the source device selected in the Main path.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks very much - it's all working now - audio/video from a D2 source to a PC. BTW, I really liked your recent summary posting on the audio formats. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Krops,

May I offer you a







?

--Bob


----------



## Catdaddy67

Hey Bob,


Are there any instances where 1080p24 can be output from the D2/AVM50 successfully to a 1080p24 capable device?


Mike


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> Are there any instances where 1080p24 can be output from the D2/AVM50 successfully to a 1080p24 capable device?
> 
> 
> Mike



YES - But I am sure Bob can add words to my answer!


----------



## muad'dib

First off, thanks to all for the awesome advice and info...



I love my D2, and have been enjoying my dvd collection with awesome surround and quality..


but...


Now I have a toshiba HD-dvd player using the HDMI for video and audio, as well as the PS3 for blu-ray,.


I have the toshiba set to Bitstream out for optical/coax and HDMI is set to AUTO..


Now the problem..


Finding that Bass and Surround levels are very poor.. I have a small collection and growing of HD-dvd, but find the surround lacking.. The picture is awesome, and quality of sound is amazing, just bass and surround levels low..


I have compared several HD-dvd's to orig. Dvd version, and by are, there is more surround volume, bass with Dvd versions..


Good movie to test is, Batman Begins.. Using the True-hd sound....


Here is the weird thing..


When watching DTS-HD MA stuff, or PCM 5.1 on Blu-ray, sound is awesome.. Very active surrounds...


I have heard of issues with subs levels not being correct, but is the D2 having these issues?? with bass levels, and surround levels...


Anyway, hope someone knows what's up...


Thanx...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

maud'dib,

D2 software V1.11 and later does not have any of the bass problems that have been talked about. Software V1.10 and earlier DOES have that problem.


Which Toshiba player? There have been comments in several threads about the Toshiba XA2 having some problems like this and I don't know what the status is for fixes from Toshiba.


Specify which model and people might be able to help further.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I love my D2, and have been enjoying my dvd collection with awesome surround and quality..
> 
> 
> Thanx...



I have the Toshiba HD-A1 and the Pioneer BDP-HD1.


Both are set to HDMI Auto via HDMI to the D2.


Absolutely NO PROBLEMS.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> Are there any instances where 1080p24 can be output from the D2/AVM50 successfully to a 1080p24 capable device?
> 
> 
> Mike



As far as I know, 1080p/24Hz input to 1080p/24Hz output works just fine with all 1080p/24Hz capable displays.


We know of one display, the Sony Pearl, which needs special video timings for 1080p/24Hz input. See the link in the first post of this thread for a custom video setup that seems to work with the Pearl.

--Bob


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I need some help......
> 
> 
> I have been experiencing some HD DVD (Toshiba XA2) problems that have been increasing at a steady rate from an initial excellent experience and rating. To date the pic quality remains excellent but the machine has been shutting down with no warning and with no apparent catalyst. It just doesn't freeze, it shuts down power. The case is luke warm not hot. I am beginning to wonder if there is some errant command coming back from the D2 telling it (Xa2) to shut down. I restart the Xa2 and it runs fine for an arbitrary amount of time before it unpredictably shuts off again. I know that the HDMI spec allows for a two way communication protocol to control and manage equipment and I wonder if ........... I know, its probably dumb but I notice that this sudden power down has been raised in the XA2 thread but no one has responded with any attempt to provide a logical explanation for the behaviour. Has anyone here experienced anything similar with the XA2 to the D2????
> 
> 
> Peter



Peter,


I've had a huge number of issues with the XA2 and the D2. My first XA2 would not work reliably at all with the D2 (firmware 1.11g). I replaced the unit before I found out that 1.11e was the "best" firmware version to use with it. After switching to 1.11e I no longer have these sync issues, but I am having a problem with the unit just shutting off after about 10 minutes of playback. If I then attempt to turn the player back on it will hang on the "Welcome" front panel display until the unit is unplugged. If I turn off the D2 before powering it back on, it starts up just fine. To me this indicated some sort of HDMI handshaking issue.


However, upon further research it appears this is a quite common problem with many XA2s, and popular opinion suggest it is an overheating issue. People with the problem say that switching to 1080i output makes it go away. I haven't tried this yet. I may also try switching to another cable. The unit is in a well ventilated cabinet and is cool to the touch when it shuts down, so I really find the overheating problem hard to believe.


Some that have had this problem replaced their unit and the problem went away.


Anyway, after all these issues I'm SOOO close to throwing in the towel on the XA2. In comparison, my PS3 has been flawless as far as Blu-Ray playback is concerned.


No wonder the price on the XA2 has been dropping like a rock lately....


-Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dave,

I wouldn't be surprised to discover the HDMI V1.3 output chips of the XA2 are having problems with 1080p. These are new chips and I suspect that not all the kinks have been worked out of them.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> maud'dib,
> 
> D2 software V1.11 and later does not have any of the bass problems that have been talked about. Software V1.10 and earlier DOES have that problem.
> 
> 
> Which Toshiba player? There have been comments in several threads about the Toshiba XA2 having some problems like this and I don't know what the status is for fixes from Toshiba.
> 
> 
> Specify which model and people might be able to help further.
> 
> --Bob



Sorry about that, I forgot to state the model..










I have the Toshiba Hd-A2, had the Xa2, but kept powering off by itself after 1.5 hours










I swear that when I had for a short time the A1, the surround was better...


Thanks...


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I am not getting a straight answer in another thread (Crystalio 2), so perhaps someone can straighten this out here. This was posted in said thread:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *beever* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I am no expert in chipsets and numbers but, I can tell you with certainty that the chipset used in the C2 is different from that on the Anthem. And for those of you who claim that the D2 video board wasnt an after thought I can tell you it was with a few simple facts.
> 
> 
> First of all the Anthem was designed as a D1 which is exactly the same thing as the D2 except the video board. As such, the power supply is underpowered to handle the new video and audio boards and the 10,000 post thread about it speaks of bugs, overheating and multiple failed units. The entire video section was an afterthought, the Gennum Chipset wasnt even created when the D1 was being built so they couldnt have planned ahead for it. I have used it along with the DVDO and C2 and there is no comparison between the 3 products. I have never owned a Lumagen product but, based on the above posts and others in these forums, it easily bests the old Lumagen stuff and we have yet to see what the new stuff will look and work like.



Putting aside the "afterthought" bs for a moment, can anyone tell me if these two units use the same Gennum chipset?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Putting aside the "afterthought" bs for a moment, can anyone tell me if these two units use the same Gennum chipset?



The D2 uses the Gennum GF9350 VXP. Click on one of the "Complete details ... image processing" links found on this page:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/Products/D2/D2.html 


There is a new Gennum chip, the 9351 which I believe is just a lower power version, but I'm not sure of that. There is yet a newer version coming out this year which adds some improvements in noise reduction.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> TThere is a new Gennum chip, the 9351 which I believe is just a lower power version, but I'm not sure of that. There is yet a newer version coming out this year which adds some improvements in noise reduction.
> 
> --Bob




Bob is right - from the Gennum Website - the 9351 replaces the 9350 - see below.

*Overview*


Gennum's GF9351 10-bit image processing system-on-a-chip (SoC) sets new benchmarks for video realism and processing flexibility within a new low-power, low-cost design. The GF9351 combines Gennum Corporation's Visual Excellence Processing (VXP) technologies within a dual channel Image Processor architecture that is hardware and software compatible with the *existing GF9350 solution*. The GF9351 features Gennum's latest de-interlacing algorithms with dynamic edge detection and film mode processing for both HDTV and SDTV interlaced formats. Content and pixel adaptive noise reduction and detail enhancement algorithms remove unwanted noise while improving image detail for a cinematic HDTV experience. Gennum's dual channel architecture allows Picture-in-Picture (PIP), Picture-on-Picture (POP) and Picture-by-Picture (PBP) functionality. Other features include support for all VESA and SMPTE formats up to 2048 lines by 2048 samples, universal frame rate conversion and full programmability for dynamic effects.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is a new Gennum chip, the 9351 which I believe is just a lower power version, but I'm not sure of that.
> 
> --Bob



The 9351 is the next generation of the 9350. Same feature set using lower power and 'supposedly' can support 2048 x 2048 and is more efficient than the 9350. It is a 10 bit dual channel unit.
http://www.gennum.com/ip/gf9351.html 


If it has lower power requirements chances are it puts out less heat.


Since it is "hardware and software compatible with the existing 9350 solution" there may be no reason Anthem could not offer a chip swap in future unless they are doing something different on their daughterboards that would prohibit it.


No that's a good rumour for you










I see drhankz beat me to it as I was typing


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I see drhankz beat me to it as I was typing



I may have beat you typing - but you are up way way earlier

than me out there in BC


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I may have beat you typing - but you are up way way earlier
> 
> than me out there in BC



I'm on a ship off the coast of Angola, Africa at the moment. It is 13:47 here local time.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm on a ship off the coast of Angola, Africa at the moment. It is 13:47 here local time.



OH MY GOD - is your Anthem On-Board?


Have a good Cruise!


----------



## LEVESQUE

Rob.


Be careful with "Beever". It's Notanewbie, EricBee, Cigarguy (and I'm forgetting alot of different alias he was using before getting ban from AVS each time). I don't know why this guy need to bash Anthem all across the internet.


So you should just put him on your ignore list and forget about what he says. It's just sad that some people will read that and believe him. He's the biggest Anthem basher on the net.


He will probably get ban from AVS soon again after wrinting things like that. I was able to compare the D2 with the Crystalio II and DVDO VP50 and the D2 was easily on par with those, and even better in some regards. And we have alot of D2 users coming from the DVDO VP50 and they are all really happy they made the switch.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OH MY GOD - is your Anthem On-Board?
> 
> 
> Have a good Cruise!



Waiting for the 30>50 upgrade so have been following this thread closely. Anthem is at home









Not a cruise - working







3 more weeks.


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Be careful with "Beever". It's Notanewbie, EricBee, Cigarguy (and I'm forgetting alot of different alias he was using before getting ban from AVS each time). I don't know why this guy need to bash Anthem all across the internet.



LOL That is the first thing I thought when I saw that quote from Rob above. That guy REALLY has it in for Anthem.


I came from an MC-12B (like he did when he got his D2) and I have the exact opposite impression of the D2. I think it sounds BETTER than the Lexicon, and the video processing capabilities are tremendous.


I just used the D2 to set up a vertical stretch with my new RS1 last night (coupled with an ISCO II lens) and forgot how awesome it was to watch cinemascope films at full height and width. I've been watching them letterboxed for the past six months!


Of course, it didn't help matters when I popped a movie in the XA2 and sat down to watch our first family movie on the RS1, and then 10 minutes later the player just shut off! We had to go upstairs and finish it on the XBox 360!


-Dave


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Of course, it didn't help matters when I popped a movie in the XA2 and sat down to watch our first family movie on the RS1, and then 10 minutes later the player just shut off! We had to go upstairs and finish it on the XBox 360!
> 
> 
> -Dave



Sounds like a sick XA2.


Is your configuration of equipment causing one or

more units to OVERHEAT? Just a Thought


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sounds like a sick XA2.



I think you are right. Others have reported the same problem and that it was solved by replacing the unit.


> Quote:
> Is your configuration of equipment causing one or
> 
> more units to OVERHEAT? Just a Thought



I don't think so. It is in a completely open rack (all four sides are open) with at least 4 inches of clearance above. The item on the rack below doesn't put off much heat (DirecTV HR20-700). The room is cool and the XA2 never feels warm.


I think there is some design defect that is causing this to happen to way too many people. If yours works fine you are lucky.


My problem is that I am outside my 30 day return window with the retailer (since I was projectorless for about a month I didn't have a chance to try it earlier). I hate the thought of sending it in to Toshiba for repair.....










-Dave


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My problem is that I am outside my 30 day return window with the retailer (since I was projectorless for about a month I didn't have a chance to try it earlier). I hate the thought of sending it in to Toshiba for repair.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Dave



If it is not heat - which it sounds like it is not - I

have heard of others with the same problem.


I think Nine Ball is having the same problem

up in Canada. Better to send to Toshiba than live

with it the way it is.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm on a ship off the coast of Angola, Africa at the moment. It is 13:47 here local time.



Our Far Flung Correspondents....


(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 9351 is the next generation of the 9350. Same feature set using lower power and 'supposedly' can support 2048 x 2048 and is more efficient than the 9350. It is a 10 bit dual channel unit.
> http://www.gennum.com/ip/gf9351.html
> 
> 
> If it has lower power requirements chances are it puts out less heat.
> 
> 
> Since it is "hardware and software compatible with the existing 9350 solution" there may be no reason Anthem could not offer a chip swap in future unless they are doing something different on their daughterboards that would prohibit it.
> 
> 
> No that's a good rumour for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see drhankz beat me to it as I was typing



The 9350 also does 10 bit video processing.


Dual channel versions are targeted at players that need to mix movie content with extras content for PIP extras overlay (each type of content needs separate de-interlacing/scaling), and also displays that do PIP video. This is not something the Anthem needs unless we wanted to pay for two source PIP mixed inside the Anthem -- cute but hardly essential.


Lower power consumption is partly for heat but mainly so that the chip can be used in smaller devices (less mass/size for heat dissipation) and devices with cheaper/smaller power supplies and power distribution circuitry.


Essentially this was an effort by Gennum to make the chip competitive against the competiton for these other devices. It's not really an upgrade.


Another significant factor is how much of the chip's abilities are exposed for the user to actually take advantage of them. The latest Anthem software goes quite a ways towards making ALL of it available. There is nothing of the afterthought or shoddy in Anthem's implementation.


------------------------------------------------------------


The next version of the Gennum chip -- not shipping yet as far as I know -- includes enhanced video noise reduction to compete against the HQV stuff. This is for crappy content such as older TV shows transferred to DVD or damaged broadcast TV.

--Bob


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob.
> 
> 
> Be careful with "Beever". It's Notanewbie, EricBee, Cigarguy (and I'm forgetting alot of different alias he was using before getting ban from AVS each time). I don't know why this guy need to bash Anthem all across the internet.
> 
> 
> So you should just put him on your ignore list and forget about what he says. It's just sad that some people will read that and believe him. He's the biggest Anthem basher on the net.
> 
> 
> He will probably get ban from AVS soon again after wrinting things like that. I was able to compare the D2 with the Crystalio II and DVDO VP50 and the D2 was easily on par with those, and even better in some regards. And we have alot of D2 users coming from the DVDO VP50 and they are all really happy they made the switch.



I can't believe "EricBee" still comes around. You'd think he'd have better things to do by now after getting booted X times...


larry


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can't believe "EricBee" still comes around. You'd think he'd have better things to do by now after getting booted X times...
> 
> 
> larry



Come on guys - I don't know who this guy is.


But from what I hear of his personality - no

matter how many times he gets booted. The

game is how many times can I get back in?


That is the Challenge of the GAME for people

like this


----------



## lizard_king

Bob -


Just an FYI - local AV tech is here - could not find the problem - called Nick and decided it was a faulty unit - getting replaced.











thanks again for all your assistance!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob -
> 
> 
> Just an FYI - local AV tech is here - could not find the problem - called Nick and decided it was a faulty unit - getting replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks again for all your assistance!



If you ever find out from them what failed I'd be curious to know.


I don't think it is just coincidence that it failed just now, but I can't think of anything that might have happened during your projector swapout (static discharge or whatever) that could cause it to fail in the way you were seeing. So maybe it IS just coincidence. Anyway, I'm glad they're taking care of you!

--Bob


----------



## lizard_king




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you ever find out from them what failed I'd be curious to know.
> 
> 
> I don't think it is just coincidence that it failed just now, but I can't think of anything that might have happened during your projector swapout (static discharge or whatever) that could cause it to fail in the way you were seeing. So maybe it IS just coincidence. Anyway, I'm glad they're taking care of you!
> 
> --Bob



I'll tell you something more amazing - given that this was installed by professionals - i never checked - but it was NEVER processing video - the guy who set it up (same one as today) said he set it up as unprocessed since my display was only 1080i!??!?!?!?? does that make sense? i can see that my xbox is 1080i out and my DTV is 1080i out - so no processing necessary - but my dvd player is 480i (or p - but the component was connected to the interlaced jacks) - would that not benefit from the AVM50 video processing? or am i out to lunch?


bottom line - video processing seems NEVER to have been working with this unit...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll tell you something more amazing - given that this was installed by professionals - i never checked - but it was NEVER processing video - the guy who set it up (same one as today) said he set it up as unprocessed since my display was only 1080i!??!?!?!?? does that make sense? i can see that my xbox is 1080i out and my DTV is 1080i out - so no processing necessary - but my dvd player is 480i (or p - but the component was connected to the interlaced jacks) - would that not benefit from the AVM50 video processing? or am i out to lunch?
> 
> 
> bottom line - video processing seems NEVER to have been working with this unit...



Well actually that is a lot less surprising to me than that it just failed now. What I suspect is going on is that there is a bad internal connection between the input selection switcher and the scaler, so that the Anthem is recognizing the input signal but no signal is getting to the scaler. The pass through then works, and the Anthem's internally generated video works, but no source video gets to the scaler. This could be as simple as something having jarred loose during shipping.


But it would be very unlikely for that to happen AFTER the unit was installed and working correctly.


------------------------------------------------


As for your installer's idea of the proper way to set up the Anthem -- DANG! What was he thinking?


Well look at the bright side. When things are finally set up right your video will be EVEN BETTER than what you've seen so far!


========================================


Check out the "video calibration for non-ISF techs" link in the first post of this thread for tips on the best way to set things up for all your sources. Then if your installer goofs again, you'll know how to redo it yourself.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> bottom line - video processing seems NEVER to have been working with this unit...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> As for your installer's idea of the proper way to set up the Anthem -- DANG! What was he thinking?



When you get your new unit - I'm not so sure

I would be HAPPILY welcoming that installer back

into my home. I think his capabilities are limited to

the FRONT PANEL LIGHTS ARE ON


----------



## Mr. Foo

Hello all. Tomorrow marks my one month anniversary since I ordered my AVM50 and my dealer still hasn't gotten it in. My salesperson called Anthem at the time we ordered and was told that I was something like 7th in the queue for a new unit. For those that got theirs recently, how long did it take? For those still waiting, when did you place your order?


I know from past posts in this thread that there have been some delays in orders being filled, I'm just curious what others are experiencing more recently while I anxiously await the receipt of mine.


----------



## lizard_king




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When you get your new unit - I'm not so sure
> 
> I would be HAPPILY welcoming that installer back
> 
> into my home. I think his capabilities are limited to
> 
> the FRONT PANEL LIGHTS ARE ON



No - i am getting the owner to do it - if he cannot then.........he should not be selling this product - simple....or he should invest in some training...or Anthem should have some kind of installer certification program - especially with a product this feature-rich (read: complex)...


----------



## lizard_king




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Foo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello all. Tomorrow marks my one month anniversary since I ordered my AVM50 and my dealer still hasn't gotten it in. My salesperson called Anthem at the time we ordered and was told that I was something like 7th in the queue for a new unit. For those that got theirs recently, how long did it take? For those still waiting, when did you place your order?
> 
> 
> I know that people have been experiencing delays in getting theirs in hand, I'm just curious what others are experiencing while I anxiously await receipt of mine.



Just an FYI - I am now waiting for one as well since mine was defective - here is the response I got from Anthem today when I asked when I might get one:

_Tough to say - we haven't been able to build them fast enough to maintain stock since end of last year but it's in the cue (sic)_ .


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No - i am getting the owner to do it - if he cannot then.........he should not be selling this product - simple....or he should invest in some training...or Anthem should have some kind of installer certification program - especially with a product this feature-rich (read: complex)...



I agree with you - dealers who sell Anthem should

be technically competent enough to install them

and configure them properly for customers who

need the help.


Of course for ME







Doing my own installation

and TWEAKING is almost as much fun as listening

and watching the results. But them I'm a certified

Tweaker


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Krops,
> 
> May I offer you a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> --Bob



Hehe, thanks







The D2 is one amazing piece of equipment!


----------



## lizard_king




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree with you - dealers who sell Anthem should
> 
> be technically competent enough to install them
> 
> and configure them properly for customers who
> 
> need the help.
> 
> 
> Of course for ME
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing my own installation
> 
> and TWEAKING is almost as much fun as listening
> 
> and watching the results. But them I'm a certified
> 
> Tweaker



Don't get me wrong - I would not have been lurking on here for a few months if I was not a tweaker as well...what I wanted was a installer baseline that I could save and use as an emergency fallback position when I inevitably screwed things up!!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong - I would not have been lurking on here for a few months if I was not a tweaker as well...what I wanted was a installer baseline that I could save and use as an emergency fallback position when I inevitably screwed things up!!



I'll tell you - the FACTORY baseline is as good as you

can get. Mine was up and running in less than 10

minutes. And you can always RESTORE factory defaults.


All my tweaking has been on the Audio side because I

have a very high-end audio capability.


The only Video Tweaking I did was SELECT 1080p as

my output choice. Pretty darn simple.


----------



## 3Dfx




> Quote:
> For those that got theirs recently, how long did it take?



Three weeks. I ordered it at the end of February/early March.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No - i am getting the owner to do it - if he cannot then.........he should not be selling this product - simple....or he should invest in some training...or Anthem should have some kind of installer certification program - especially with a product this feature-rich (read: complex)...



The problem most retailers have is that the D2s don't stay in the store long enough for them to get familiar with them. And learning about the product in the customer's home can be kind of embarrassing for them.


The dealer I bought my D2 from had never actually had one powered on in his store. Every time he ordered a unit for his showroom it got sold before it arrived.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The problem most retailers have is that the D2s don't stay in the store long enough for them to get familiar with them. And learning about the product in the customer's home can be kind of embarrassing for them.
> 
> 
> The dealer I bought my D2 from had never actually had one powered on in his store. Every time he ordered a unit for his showroom it got sold before it arrived.
> 
> --Bob



I might disagree with you Bob just a *touch*.


Having come from a Lexicon World since 1996 [every generation]

and a DVDO VP world [3 generations] one of the other reasons

I bought my D2 was ---- I read the manual before buying and

saw how easy and intuitive the menus were. I said this baby will

be easy to setup and tweak. My opinion has not changed as an

owner.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Foo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello all. Tomorrow marks my one month anniversary since I ordered my AVM50 and my dealer still hasn't gotten it in. My salesperson called Anthem at the time we ordered and was told that I was something like 7th in the queue for a new unit. For those that got theirs recently, how long did it take? For those still waiting, when did you place your order?
> 
> 
> I know from past posts in this thread that there have been some delays in orders being filled, I'm just curious what others are experiencing more recently while I anxiously await the receipt of mine.



This Friday will mark 4 weeks since I ordered mine.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This Friday will mark 4 weeks since I ordered mine.



You must be getting close by now.


----------



## JeffDL

^^ I stole my dealers a few days after he set it up. He didn't want to let it go.


----------



## Nathan_R

What's the most recent firmware for the AVM-50 being sent to the beta-testers? I changed my email address and I'm not sure I'm getting beta updates anymore.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What's the most recent firmware for the AVM-50 being sent to the beta-testers? I changed my email address and I'm not sure I'm getting beta updates anymore.



V1.11h is the latest we've had reports of here.


However, V1.11f, V1.11g, and V1.11h all appear to have significant problems. The most recent software that appears to be working well is V1.11e.


The factory is still shipping new units with "original" V1.11 installed, and that's also the version on the web site.

--Bob


----------



## Nathan_R

Hmmm, I think "f" was the last I received, and that may jive with my email address change.


Thanks, Bob! You're an asset to everyone here, good sir!


----------



## Mr. Foo

Here's to hoping we both get ours soon....


I already sold my VP50 and my Aragon Stage One to raise funds for this and now have to live with a Denon 3802 as a pre/pro while I wait on this.


Argh.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This Friday will mark 4 weeks since I ordered mine.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> V1.11h is the latest we've had reports of here.
> 
> 
> However, V1.11f, V1.11g, and V1.11h all appear to have significant problems. The most recent software that appears to be working well is V1.11e.
> 
> 
> The factory is still shipping new units with "original" V1.11 installed, and that's also the version on the web site.
> 
> --Bob



Roger that all counts, particularly for Toshiba HD-DVD users.


----------



## RIppolito

My AVM 50 came with version 1.11 firmware installed. I upgraded it to version 1.11g in order to get rid of the 1080i but, but a) I'm not sure that it solves my problem, and b) there are some quirks that I'm not sure were there when I got the unit.


My question is this... if I hit 'restore factory defaults', does that restore the firmware back to what was installed, or does it merely restore all the settings?


Thanks in advance,


Ron


PS - even with a few quirks, this is easily the best processor that I have had.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My AVM 50 came with version 1.11 firmware installed. I upgraded it to version 1.11g in order to get rid of the 1080i but, but a) I'm not sure that it solves my problem, and b) there are some quirks that I'm not sure were there when I got the unit.
> 
> 
> My question is this... if I hit 'restore factory defaults', does that restore the firmware back to what was installed, or does it merely restore all the settings?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Ron
> 
> 
> PS - even with a few quirks, this is easily the best processor that I have had.



It restores the settings and only the settings. It restores them, in your case, to the defaults built into the the V1.11g firmware. It will not change the software version. The defaults for a different firmware install could even be different.


If you want to change software versions, you need to install a different version. You could get the "original" V1.11 software from the Anthem web site, but if you have problems with V1.11g I would strongly advise you contact Anthem tech support and talk through the issue with them. They may have a newer version of the software for you. If not, you should probably go back no further than V1.11e rather than all the way back to "original" V1.11. The reason is not just because of bugs that have since been fixed, but also because the installer for that "original" version can give people grief. The installer issues were finally resolved around V1.11c.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The JVC RS-1/HD-1 are not worst then the Sony Ruby or Pearl if talking about oversaturated colors. I have seen those 3 projectors, and the oversaturation is approximately the same. People in AVS didn't find anything to complain about with the JVC, so they start complaining about oversaturation!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember the Ruby and this "awful" brightness compression that everyone was talking about? yes, it,s there. But nothing a good custom gamma curve won't fix. But everyone was talking about that "major" problem like it was the end of the world. It wasn't. It was a MINOR problem.
> 
> 
> It's AVS, so they HAD to find something to complain about the JVC and make you think that the world would stop turning because of that "major" problem! But it's the same oversaturation that we have also on the Ruby and Pearl. Alot of manufacturers are fallowing Sony (sadly) in that direction, since it's proven that the "average consumer" will always buy the display showing oversaturated color if side-by-side with a display with accurate colors. BTW, you can't properly fix the oversaturated colors on the Ruby and Pearl also. RCP is not working pretty good also. It's an imperfect band-aid. Not really better then no band-aid if we compare those projectors with the JVC.
> 
> 
> Do we see people complain about oversaturated colors with the 2 Sony projectors? No, because they don't need to... because they can complain about the awful auto-iris! That dreadful, shameful, non-natural automatic iris that is SOOOO terrible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People don't realize that all the manufacturers want is to sell displays. After it's sold, they don't really care what it will look like in your room. They only care about what it will look like in the showroom. So we have oversaturated colors by Sony, and now JVC... JVC and Sony want to move and sell hundred of thousands units at BestBuy and other major chains to joe-6-pack. They don't care about us crazy AVSers. They want to move units in and outr of the showrooms really fast. So oversaturated colors it is!



I agree with LEVESQUE, I have access to a RS1 to play with and this is an amazing projector at that price point. The color saturation doesn't bother me much. Last week end was a long week end (4 days) and I brought the RS1 home to calibrate it properly and see if I could get rid of the over-saturation. I couldn't stop watch HD movies and find really little time to calibrate the unit.










I also manage to get the unit to work a 1080p24 with the D2 and the Pioneer Blu-Ray. The result was far from being stable.


The D2 with the RS1 is rock solid at 1080p60 it is in fact an amazing combo.


----------



## shah993




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It restores the settings and only the settings. It restores them, in your case, to the defaults built into the the V1.11g firmware. It will not change the software version. The defaults for a different firmware install could even be different.
> 
> 
> If you want to change software versions, you need to install a different version. You could get the "original" V1.11 software from the Anthem web site, but if you have problems with V1.11g I would strongly advise you contact Anthem tech support and talk through the issue with them. They may have a newer version of the software for you. If not, you should probably go back no further than V1.11e rather than all the way back to "original" V1.11. The reason is not just because of bugs that have since been fixed, but also because the installer for that "original" version can give people grief. The installer issues were finally resolved around V1.11c.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I have the original ver1.0!! Did not see the need to upgrade it till now.Will I have a problem installing 1.1? which the anthem website has.I don't have any HDMI components as of yet but am thinking of getting the oppo.As always your help will be appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I have the original ver1.0!! Did not see the need to upgrade it till now.Will I have a problem installing 1.1? which the anthem website has.I don't have any HDMI components as of yet but am thinking of getting the oppo.As always your help will be appreciated.



There were significant improvements as far back as V1.06. Many of those related to HDMI, but not all. Component image quality was also improved. You really owe it to yourself to get the newer software.


I suggest you contact Anthem tech support, tell them which version of the software you have now and that it's time for you to upgrade, tell them that you've been following the discussions of the test software versions here, and ask them whether you should get V1.11e (or a newer version) from them or just use the V1.11 from the web site. My guess is they'll recommend you go to V1.11e to avoid possible install problems.

--Bob


----------



## RIppolito

Here is a bizarre occurrence that I hope someone can help me with...


I have an AVM 50, running the 1.11g firmware, and overall, it works great. I have the Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player connected via HDMI, and overall, it works great, too. When I put in an audio CD, however, the Anthem remote becomes virtually unresponsive. Volume adjustments are painfully slow, even when I pause the CD. If I replace the audio CD with a regular DVD, all is OK again.


Has anyone else seen this, or can you try it? Is there some type of HDMI handshaking that is going on to tie up the processor in the Anthem? Is there anyone from Anthem that can get me a workaround, because a CD player without a volume adjustment isn't highly useful.


Thanks in advance,


Ron


----------



## shah993

Thanks,Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is a bizarre occurrence that I hope someone can help me with...
> 
> 
> I have an AVM 50, running the 1.11g firmware, and overall, it works great. I have the Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player connected via HDMI, and overall, it works great, too. When I put in an audio CD, however, the Anthem remote becomes virtually unresponsive. Volume adjustments are painfully slow, even when I pause the CD. If I replace the audio CD with a regular DVD, all is OK again.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else seen this, or can you try it? Is there some type of HDMI handshaking that is going on to tie up the processor in the Anthem? Is there anyone from Anthem that can get me a workaround, because a CD player without a volume adjustment isn't highly useful.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Ron



Gee is the A1 even supposed to be able to play CDs? (I don't have one).


Two thoughts: In Setup / Source Select for that input make sure that HDMI Repeater = NO is set and AutoDig = NO is set. These two settings may keep some unnecessary processing from happening.


If that doesn't do it for you, tell us how you've got the A1 cabled to the D2 for CD playback, what the A1 is set to send to the D2 for CD playback (and any status display it might have to verify that), and also what you are seeing in the D2's Video Source Adjust / Info panel and in the status displays you get by pressing the D2's Select key repeatedly during CD playback. Also take a look at the D2's front panel to see if it thinks the incoming audio format is changing rapidly.

--Bob


----------



## jorsan

Hi,

I need some aditional help with my AVM-50; I have connected a HTPC (using DVI to HDMI) to my processor and then to my proyector (SIM2 DOMINO 30 -720p-) thru component. When I use this via, I can't see the hole windows computer image ( for example, can't see the first column of icos and the botton line with the "start" and etc.) BUT if I unplug this connection and just run DVI to HDMI directly to my proyector (avoiding the processor) , image is perfect so . . .what am I doing wrong in the processor's configuration?. Thanks in advance


----------



## Bob Pariseau

jorsan,

Two possibilities:


* The Anthem may not be recognizing the video input properly from the HTPC. Several HTPC users have found that Gefen's DVI Detective product between the HTPC and the Anthem takes care of EDID (handshake configuration) issues.


* You may not have that input set up properly to go through the Anthem's scaler, or you may not have your video output setup properly to use the output of the scaler, so you are seeing the "unprocessed" HTPC video.


First make sure the video output from the Anthem is set up correctly independent of any sources. See the "video calibration for non-ISF techs" link in the first post of this thread for info on how to check this using the Setup menu and the Video Source Adjust menu.


Assuming your video output on the Main Component video out connection is now correct, try again with your HTPC input. If there is still a problem, report what the Anthem is giving you for video input and output details in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel. Press and hold the "7" key until that menu comes up and then scroll to the Info panel.


Is the video input a match for what you thought your HTPC was sending to the Anthem? Is the video output what you told the Anthem to use in Setup / Video Output?


There could also be problems in your Crop Input and Scale Out settings, but lets verify the resolutions are correct first.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gee is the A1 even supposed to be able to play CDs? (I don't have one).
> 
> --Bob



Yes - only Blu-Ray players do not play CDs.


----------



## RIppolito

Bob Pariseau,


OK, I tried what you suggested to get my remote to work when I play audio CD's on my HD-DVD player (HDMI repeater off, auto dig = no), and it made no difference. As a matter of fact, your suggestion to hit the 'select' button made me more annoyed because it didn't show anything on the screen (Pioneer Elite 1140 plasma).


So, I took another stab by turning off the plasma, and trying the remote, and now it responded like it is supposed to. I turned the plasma back on, and it stopped responding in its normal manner.


Anyone got any clues?


Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob Pariseau,
> 
> 
> OK, I tried what you suggested to get my remote to work when I play audio CD's on my HD-DVD player (HDMI repeater off, auto dig = no), and it made no difference. As a matter of fact, your suggestion to hit the 'select' button made me more annoyed because it didn't show anything on the screen (Pioneer Elite 1140 plasma).
> 
> 
> So, I took another stab by turning off the plasma, and trying the remote, and now it responded like it is supposed to. I turned the plasma back on, and it stopped responding in its normal manner.
> 
> 
> Anyone got any clues?
> 
> 
> Ron



You can see the "Select button" status info in the Anthem's front panel display for each press of Select if you have turned off its display on your TV screen. [The OSD display is controlled in the Setup menu.]


Plasma TVs put out infrared light that can interfere with remote control reception. But that would not explain why things are working correctly during DVD playback.


What I think is going on is that the Anthem is getting confused about the input from the A1 and is rapidly switching audio modes, which is why it is not being responsive to the remote. That's why I want you to report on the stuff in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel and what the Select key status displays are showing you.

--Bob


----------



## RIppolito

Here is a little more info on the problem. The problem manifests itself when I am using HDMI for the video and audio (2-channel PCM). As I said in the last note below, when I turn off the plasma, the remote works as it should.


So, I tried using another input (DVD3) which uses s-video and digital coax out of the HD-DVD player, and everything works as it should.


Smelling blood in the water, I went to another input (DVD2), which uses HDMI video and digital coax out of the HD-DVD player. The remote works for about five seconds after the switch, then it stops responding, similar to the original case. As with that one, if I shut off the display, the remote responds normally.


Hope this helps,


Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ron,

Doesn't suggest anything to me. Turning off the plasma causes the Anthem to shut down the HDMI output connection. Since you have set HDMI Repeater = NO, the Anthem still presents itself to the player as an HDCP-capable display. But since your plasma is also HDCP capable, that's no change from when the plasma is on.


I still think the most likely thing is that the player is rapidly changing the audio format, or alternatively that the player is unhappy with its HDMI connection to the Anthem and is rapidly retrying. Either situation could tie up the Anthem and make it less responsive.


Try this: In a situation where the remote is not responsive, go to the Anthem and try adjusting the volume using the Master Control Knob on the front panel.


If that, too, is unresponsive then that indicates it is not actually a remote control problem.


The audio/video input/output status values could still give us a clue here, particularly if they are changing rapidly.


---------------------------------------------------------


If the volume change with the Control Knob is working, then try going to Setup / Triggers / IR-setup and disable all three Rear IR inputs for all three paths. See page 38 in the Anthem manual. This is to make sure there is no possibility you are getting IR signals, somehow, through the receivers for those rear inputs.

--Bob


----------



## RIppolito

OK, here is some more info I got by using the status button on the front panel while the remote wasn't doing anything (ie, the plasma was on, and displaying the static, useless frame that says 'cd player'...




· Version 1.11g


· Video input 1920 x 1080i / 59.94 Hz - CP


· Audio input 44.1 kHz PCM


· Input L R


· Audio output 44.1 kHz


· Output L R Sub


· AnthemLogic Cinema


· DD / DTS dynamics Normal


· Tone controls Bypass


· Sleep mode Disabled


· Timers Disabled




I don't know if this helps, but even when the remote couldn't get through, I could control the audio via the front panel knob without any problems. In addition, I didn't see anything on the front panel that suggested the audio input was changing.




Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OK, I don't see anything here that's unusual.


Can you bring up the Video Source Adjust / Info panel and report what it's showing for audio/video input and output while you are having the problem. Does the remote function enough for you to do that?

--Bob


----------



## thorr

Sorry for the rant, but while I have been waiting for YEARS for Anthem to provide an upgrade for my AVM-20 to the equivalent of an AVM-50, Onkyo is coming out with the 875 model that looks pretty much equivalent. It is probably better in some cases, and worse in others. Anyway, it will cost about the same as the non-existent AVM-20 upgrade, so why would I not just get the Onkyo and sell my AVM-20?


Positives for Onkyo:

has 7.1 inputs

has HQV (only a big deal to me if you can control most of the scaler functions such as color and sizing)

has HDMI 1.3a w/DTS Master Audio decode

the ADC's and DAC's may be better (not sure)

can probably sell my Anthem and get enough to pay for the Onkyo (even trade)


Positives for Anthem:

has custom resolution support and other scaler features (not sure about the Onkyo, see above)

has XLR outputs

sound quality (this is highly debatable)


What am I missing?


Thanks, Mike


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thorr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyway, it will cost about the same as the non-existent AVM-20 upgrade, so why would I not just get the Onkyo and sell my AVM-20?



Upgrade is just around the corner










Sell the 20 and buy the 50?


I'm waiting for the 30>50 upgrade and may scrap the idea and sell the 30 and just buy the 50. Since they cannot keep up with the orders for the 50's / D2's now I suspect the 50 upgrade has hit the back burner.


We have seen that the D1>D1-HD (D2) has gone ahead, so there really isn't too much to get the 20/30 >50 other than time/space/personel or what ever the issue is at Anthem with this.


In the end the Onkyo will be out of date in 2 years while the AVM line still has a chance upgrade path, especially firmware. Other than the Scaler and a couple of inputs, your 5 or 6 year old 20 is nearly the equivalent of todays 50. Since it was Sonic Frontiers they have always stayed on the cutting edge and I'm not sure if you will be happy with the Onkyo - YMMV.


I don't think sound quality is a debatable item on your list for the Anthems.


----------



## dknight

I had never tried running either the Setup Editor or Live Video Settings Editor before, as I'd never had a need to use them. I've been a bit disappointed with the built-in gamma curves on my new projector (JVC RS1) so I thought I'd try running the Live Video Settings Editor to see exactly what it can do.


WOW!


These two apps just completely blew me away. You can tweak absolutely EVERYTHING and it couldn't be easier. For a company to make these apps available to end users really speaks volumes about their level of customer commitment and desire to bend over backwards to accomodate those nasty "corner cases" that so many companies just ignore.


Combine that with the second-to-none support from Nick at Anthem, and Bob's incredibly well thought-out and detailed posts in this thread, and I've got to say that the D2 has been one of the best pieces of consumer electronic equipment that I've EVER bought. And I have bought a LOT.


Usually when you buy something like this your initial excitement is tempered by shortcomings that you discover over time. I feel the exact opposite about the D2. I get more and more excited the more I use it and discover what it is capable of.







































-Dave


----------



## drhankz





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Usually when you buy something like this your initial excitement is tempered by shortcomings that you discover over time. I feel the exact opposite about the D2. I get more and more excited the more I use it and discover what it is capable of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Dave




AMEN - WELL SAID Dave.


I think you need one of these


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> AMEN - WELL SAID Dave. I think you need one of these



You're right. Post edited....










-Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had never tried running either the Setup Editor or Live Video Settings Editor before, as I'd never had a need to use them. I've been a bit disappointed with the built-in gamma curves on my new projector (JVC RS1) so I thought I'd try running the Live Video Settings Editor to see exactly what it can do.



Dave, I'm sure it would be extremely helpful to a lot of people if you could give us a writeup of what you did and how you tested the results. Gamma Correction is one of the real mysteries to most newbies, and the Anthem stuff let's people change things in ways that can be very bad for image quality if folks don't understand what's happening. The eye is very sensitive to Gamma errors, but not in a way that makes it easy to adjust Gamma Correction by eye. It's more of a "that looks really natural", vs. "that looks clay-faced, processed, and unnatural" sort of thing.


Particularly now that RS1 owners are looking to the separate color Gamma Correction curves in Anthem's Live Video Settings Editor to address the color saturation issue in the RS1, this would be very timely.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> · Audio output 44.1 kHz
> 
> 
> · Output L R Sub
> 
> 
> · AnthemLogic Cinema



On second thought, this info surprised me a bit. I just want to confirm that you really do have only the Left Front, Right Front, and Subwoofer speakers defined in your speaker configuration for this input. Right? If you have a Center Channel or Side or Rear Surrounds in the configuration, they should be showing up in the "Output" line given that you are using AnthemLogic Cinema mode.


In addition to reporting Video Source Adjust / Info data (if you can get to it), please do try that suggestion I made about disabling the Rear IR inputs.


I'm about to suggest you need to go to Anthem with this problem. I can't see that you are doing anything wrong, and the fact that the problem is consistently related to just this style of input and just when the display is also turned on strikes me as a bug in your V1.11g software -- and a very unusual bug at that. But they'll probably ask you for the additional stuff I just mentioned anyway, so let's try looking at that first.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had never tried running either the Setup Editor or Live Video Settings Editor before, as I'd never had a need to use them. I've been a bit disappointed with the built-in gamma curves on my new projector (JVC RS1) so I thought I'd try running the Live Video Settings Editor to see exactly what it can do.
> 
> 
> WOW!
> 
> 
> These two apps just completely blew me away. You can tweak absolutely EVERYTHING and it couldn't be easier. For a company to make these apps available to end users really speaks volumes about their level of customer commitment and desire to bend over backwards to accomodate those nasty "corner cases" that so many companies just ignore.
> 
> 
> Combine that with the second-to-none support from Nick at Anthem, and Bob's incredibly well thought-out and detailed posts in this thread, and I've got to say that the D2 has been one of the best pieces of consumer electronic equipment that I've EVER bought. And I have bought a LOT.
> 
> 
> Usually when you buy something like this your initial excitement is tempered by shortcomings that you discover over time. I feel the exact opposite about the D2. I get more and more excited the more I use it and discover what it is capable of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Dave



This is great Dave!


Now, as Bob said, please SHARE your gamma settings/tweaks. There are several RS1 owners who do, or will (ahem) have a D2/AVM 50, and one of the advantages of this is being able to compare notes. This sounds promising.


----------



## dknight

I haven't actually tweaked anything yet; I just played around a bit with the two apps to see what they were capable of.


I will certainly post my findings, but before I do any tweaking I need to calibrate my grayscale (using Calman + Spyder2 sensor) and measure/compare the Normal/A/B/C gamma builtins.


Last night I watched The Prestige on Blu-Ray and while the picture looked incredible overall, I felt that the mid range was a bit darker than I thought it should look.


Right now I have no desire to mess with the saturation. I'm talking purely gamma here.


-Dave


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Last night I watched The Prestige on Blu-Ray and while the picture looked incredible overall, I felt that the mid range was a bit darker than I thought it should look.-Dave



I think Prestige is a wee bit dark intentionally.


WATCH *Fly Boys* on Blu-Ray - that will show off your new PJ










Plenty of 24fps action in that movie.


Also KILLER Sound track your D2 will LOVE!


----------



## Stizzi

I've been considering buying a D2. For those who have purchased them please pm me what price I can expect to buy it for.



Thanks,

Drew


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stizzi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been considering buying a D2. For those who have purchased them please pm me what price I can expect to buy it for.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Drew



It is worth every penny - whatever the price is.


This is a SUPER HOT UNIT - it is hard getting a discount.


Anthem can't make them fast enough.


But when you get yours - you will be


----------



## Malleus

I'm planning on ordering a D2. Is the P5 a popular match for the D2? I am thinking of the P5/P2 vs the McIntosh 207 and I plan to demo both.


My HT is in a smallish room and I will use this for 75% movies, 25% SACD. I use the Denon 3910 as my source on B&W XT speakers and Velodyne DD12 sub.


Any suggestions on the P5 vs other amplifiers to pair with the D2 is appreciated.


----------



## PooperScooper

I'd match the amp to the speakers. The D2 is neutral.


larry


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Malleus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm planning on ordering a D2. Is the P5 a popular match for the D2? I am thinking of the P5/P2 vs the McIntosh 207 and I plan to demo both.
> 
> 
> My HT is in a smallish room and I will use this for 75% movies, 25% SACD. I use the Denon 3910 as my source on B&W XT speakers and Velodyne DD12 sub.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on the P5 vs other amplifiers to pair with the D2 is appreciated.



I AGREE with Larry. Give your speakers what they

need. But if your speakers are happy with a P5,

then Anthem has a great AMP as well. A lot of

people on this thread do have the P5. But it does

depend on what your speakers need.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is worth every penny - whatever the price is.
> 
> 
> This is a SUPER HOT UNIT - it is hard getting a discount.
> 
> 
> They can't make them fast enough.
> 
> 
> But when you get yours - you will be




Can't make them fast enough is right! It's been 4 weeks since I ordered as of tomorrow. I spoke to my dealer today, and I was told that Anthem had an issue with a batch of bad video boards that needed to be repaired/replaced, and this has resulted in a back-up of getting D2's out. Of course I'm glad they caught this before sending the units out, but man, being patient is becoming a _real_ challenge!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can't make them fast enough is right! It's been 4 weeks since I ordered as of tomorrow. I spoke to my dealer today, and I was told that Anthem had an issue with a batch of bad video boards that needed to be repaired/replaced, and this has resulted in a back-up of getting D2's out. Of course I'm glad they caught this before sending the units out, but man, being patient is becoming a _real_ challenge!



I'm not surprised with that statement. We have

been seeing way too many problems showing up

here. 1 out of 100 units - MAYBE. Even that number

is too high. So sitting tight will be worth it.


I assume you are enjoying your JVC with the Pio.


Watched FLY BOYS yet?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not surprised with that statement. We have
> 
> been seeing way too many problems showing up
> 
> here. 1 out of 100 units - MAYBE. Even that number
> 
> is too high. So sitting tight will be worth it.
> 
> 
> I assume you are enjoying your JVC with the Pio.
> 
> 
> Watched FLY BOYS yet?



I completely agree Doc! It does seem that more problems have been showing up lately, so perhaps they are getting one of the issues ironed out.


So far I am LOVING the JVC/Pio combo. Haven't watched Fly Boys. Good PQ I assume?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I completely agree Doc! It does seem that more problems have been showing up lately, so perhaps they are getting one of the issues ironed out.
> 
> 
> So far I am LOVING the JVC/Pio combo. Haven't watched Fly Boys. Good PQ I assume?



It is great PQ and so much motion - it will stress

your 24fps JVC.


BTW - it is a great TRUE story.


You will want to watch it a 2nd time with the D2

because of the audio track which is also awesome.


I have only watched it 5 times so far.


----------



## lizard_king

Bob -


Thought you would be interested in this. The problem was NOT with the AVM50 - it was with the PJ. Even though it was displaying 1080i and 480i unprocessed from the AVM50 - for some reason it would not display ANY processed output - either component or HDMI - replaced it with a new Epson 1080p and presto! it worked.....hmmmmm..


I also just bought an HDDVD Tosh A2.....the next challenge, however, is the XBOX 360 - it will only play on Component on the PJ - NOT through HDMI....the installed said that I should get on XBOX Live and look for updates that might help that...i am sure this has been dealt with on this forum somewhere - I did a search - but no luck yet....


thanks again


bill


----------



## oink

*Stupid question about the D2*:

(and maybe asked before)


Has Anthem committed to adding HDMI 1.3?

If yes, have they committed to adding DD+, TrueHD, DTS-HD, DTS-HD MA decoding?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oink* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Stupid question about the D2*:
> 
> (and maybe asked before)
> 
> 
> Has Anthem committed to adding HDMI 1.3?
> 
> If yes, have they committed to adding DD+, TrueHD, DTS-HD, DTS-HD MA decoding?



No one needs it.


I suggest your read another THREAD 


and


This HMDI FAQ from Anthem.


----------



## RIppolito

Bob Pariseau,


So, here is some more data. I noticed that there is a five second (or thereabouts) period (at the front of when I switch to the audio cd) where the remote still works, so I brought up the Video input / output status window in the video scalar section. I let it get to where the remote was not responsive, and here is what it said


Input status


Video source No input

Signal type 1920 x 1080i / 59.94 Hz

Audio source 6 ch Fs 176.4 kHz

Film mode Off


Output status


Signal type 1280 x 720p / 60 Hz

Line rate 45000 Hz

Frame lock Inactive


Hope this helps,




Ron


----------



## nitro110

Hi, I was thinking about purchasing an avm-50 or d2. Just had a quick question that I'm sure has been covered but I couldn't find it.


I have a DLP TV and a projector. I would like to run HDMI to both using a splitter. Is it possible to have 2 seperate video settings for each and input and choose one or the other based on which display I am currently using? Or is there another way to accomplish this that I have not thought of?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nitro110* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi, I was thinking about purchasing an avm-50 or d2. Just had a quick question that I'm sure has been covered but I couldn't find it.
> 
> 
> I have a DLP TV and a projector. I would like to run HDMI to both using a splitter. Is it possible to have 2 seperate video settings for each and input and choose one or the other based on which display I am currently using? Or is there another way to accomplish this that I have not thought of?



Such devices are a violation of the HDMI license.


However products are out there and people have

results that are all over the map - from Bad to Good.


It is a CRAP SHOOT.


----------



## Catdaddy67

Yeah, my AVM50 finally arrives tomorrow! 3 Day shipped on Tuesday!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah, my AVM50 finally arrives tomorrow! 3 Day shipped on Tuesday!



The fact that you are getting your AVM50 before I get my D2 is just wrong on oh so many levels!


----------



## Catdaddy67

8)


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Malleus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm planning on ordering a D2. Is the P5 a popular match for the D2? I am thinking of the P5/P2 vs the McIntosh 207 and I plan to demo both.
> 
> 
> My HT is in a smallish room and I will use this for 75% movies, 25% SACD. I use the Denon 3910 as my source on B&W XT speakers and Velodyne DD12 sub.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on the P5 vs other amplifiers to pair with the D2 is appreciated.



Malleus,


I would consider that the A5 would be more than enough horsepower for your "smallish room" and B&W XT's. The biggest XT's (the XT4's) are rated at 50-150W. The A5 delivers 180Watts into 8 ohms with all 5 channels driven.


For reference, I use B&W 703 fronts and CCM-850 rears with an HTM7 center and I have the A5 driving them. I also have a VERY large room and listen to many multi-channel recordings at high volume levels and the A5 is plenty of horsepower for the 703's, which are rated for 50W-200W. I had initially thought of going with the P5 and am very glad I went for the A5 instead. It is a bit smaller, and fits very nicely in a rack, where the P5 would have required another circuit to be run for optimal power needs and is significantly bigger, so that the rack I have would not have accomodated it. I can honestly say, the A5 is never even breaking a sweat during any of my demanding listening or movie watching. I am VERY happy I have the A5/D2 combination. [Note, I also have an A2 powering my Zone 2 from the D2, and that is stellar as well!]. Of course, as with anything, let your ears be your guide, listen to the two, and others, and tell us if you hear a difference. Good luck with it!


Hope this helps,

Brian


----------



## thorr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Upgrade is just around the corner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sell the 20 and buy the 50?
> 
> 
> I'm waiting for the 30>50 upgrade and may scrap the idea and sell the 30 and just buy the 50. Since they cannot keep up with the orders for the 50's / D2's now I suspect the 50 upgrade has hit the back burner.
> 
> 
> We have seen that the D1>D1-HD (D2) has gone ahead, so there really isn't too much to get the 20/30 >50 other than time/space/personel or what ever the issue is at Anthem with this.
> 
> 
> In the end the Onkyo will be out of date in 2 years while the AVM line still has a chance upgrade path, especially firmware. Other than the Scaler and a couple of inputs, your 5 or 6 year old 20 is nearly the equivalent of todays 50. Since it was Sonic Frontiers they have always stayed on the cutting edge and I'm not sure if you will be happy with the Onkyo - YMMV.
> 
> 
> I don't think sound quality is a debatable item on your list for the Anthems.



Thanks for the reply.


I thought about selling the 20 and buying the 50, but the problem is the 50 is a lot more expensive than the current value of the 20 plus the cost of the upgrade.


There is a lot of buzz going on about the Onkyo's so maybe Anthem's huge demand will go away when people can finally buy something similar from the competition (if you want to call Onkyo an Anthem competitor lol).


I definitely like the firmware upgradability of the Anthem but the Onkyo has capabilities that the Anthem does not and will not with a simple firmware update. To say the Onkyo will be obsolete in 2 years is kind of hard to believe since it fully supports everything that HD-DVD and Blurry have to offer and beyond (deep color).


Regarding the sound quality not being debatable, I must debate this.










There have been many discussions about the DAC's used in the Anthems being not considered very good compared to other DAC's and of course there is that one thread with that millionare who owns every pre-amp known to man and says that the Anthems don't sound very musical compared to some of the others. The Onkyo is probably using the latest and greatest DAC's, and with a preamp, we are basically talking about signal processing. A huge chunk of sound quality comes from the quality of the amp. I know this because my Sunfire Cinema 7 amp was the best thing I ever could have done to improve my sound quality. I first added this, then the Anthem, and the Anthem didn't have a huge impact like the amp did. As long as the preamp part is done well and you have a great amp, you should be all set. So please explain why the Anthem using 6+ year old technology would sound better than the Onkyo when using it only as a preamp. I am not trying to cause trouble. I am genuinely interested in knowing why the Anthem would sound better.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob -
> 
> 
> Thought you would be interested in this. The problem was NOT with the AVM50 - it was with the PJ. Even though it was displaying 1080i and 480i unprocessed from the AVM50 - for some reason it would not display ANY processed output - either component or HDMI - replaced it with a new Epson 1080p and presto! it worked.....hmmmmm..



This is just plain bizarre. If you asked me to design a projector to do this I'm not sure I could. The projector can't have any idea whether or not the video is processed -- particularly for Component input. But heck, if it works now then great!


As for your XBOX: Be sure it's Component output is set to no higher than 1080i/60Hz (or 1080p/30Hz). That's as high as you can go on Component video input to process the video in the Anthem -- which you need to do to transcode it to HDMI output. Component 1080p/60Hz can only go through the Anthem UNprocessed (which means it can only go to the Component output). [Processed HDMI input/output can go up to 1080p/60z.]

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob Pariseau,
> 
> 
> So, here is some more data. I noticed that there is a five second (or thereabouts) period (at the front of when I switch to the audio cd) where the remote still works, so I brought up the Video input / output status window in the video scalar section. I let it get to where the remote was not responsive, and here is what it said
> 
> 
> Input status
> 
> 
> Video source No input
> 
> Signal type 1920 x 1080i / 59.94 Hz
> 
> Audio source 6 ch Fs 176.4 kHz
> 
> Film mode Off
> 
> 
> Output status
> 
> 
> Signal type 1280 x 720p / 60 Hz
> 
> Line rate 45000 Hz
> 
> Frame lock Inactive
> 
> 
> Hope this helps,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ron



The "Video Source: No Input" is suspicious. Even though you are playing a CD there is usually some on screen display video that should register. It would be interesting to see what this displays when your plasma's HDMI input is turned off, but I don't think you'll be able to do that on Component or S-video since the video input is copy protected according to the Select button status.


There is no sensible reason for your unit's Remote Control response to be failing this way, and I can't suggest any way for you to fix this yourself. The best bet at this point is that it is a problem specific to the V1.11g firmware. I would not be surprised if Anthem asks you to revert to the earlier V1.11e version.


The 5 second delay prior to things failing points to the source device deciding it is unhappy with the copy protection on the HDMI signal path. But it shouldn't even be worrying about that for CD playback. And I can't see how that would relate to Remote unresponsiveness.


At this point I think you'll have to work the problem with Anthem tech support.


Sheesh! This is our week for truly weird Anthem problems!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thorr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry for the rant, but while I have been waiting for YEARS for Anthem to provide an upgrade for my AVM-20 to the equivalent of an AVM-50, Onkyo is coming out with the 875 model that looks pretty much equivalent. It is probably better in some cases, and worse in others. Anyway, it will cost about the same as the non-existent AVM-20 upgrade, so why would I not just get the Onkyo and sell my AVM-20?



Mike I can't really help you with your Onkyo decision, but for what it's worth I agree that Anthem has not met the expectations they created of a prompt upgrade path for AVM customers. It's a surprising lapse on their part given their otherwise excellent customer service record. Even if they ARE selling these things as fast as they can make them it should not be that hard to reserve a portion of shop time and video board production to service customers wanting upgrades.

---Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oink* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Stupid question about the D2*:
> 
> (and maybe asked before)
> 
> 
> Has Anthem committed to adding HDMI 1.3?
> 
> If yes, have they committed to adding DD+, TrueHD, DTS-HD, DTS-HD MA decoding?



No to both. And also understand that these decoders require HDMI V1.3, and that modifying Anthem's existing HDMI V1.1 products to HDMI V1.3 (the D2, AVM-50, or AVM-40) would require a hardware change as opposed to just software because, at the very least, the HDMI V1.3 driver chips are different.


I would not expect to see an HDMI V1.3 product from Anthem this year. Next year is debatable.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nitro110* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi, I was thinking about purchasing an avm-50 or d2. Just had a quick question that I'm sure has been covered but I couldn't find it.
> 
> 
> I have a DLP TV and a projector. I would like to run HDMI to both using a splitter. Is it possible to have 2 seperate video settings for each and input and choose one or the other based on which display I am currently using? Or is there another way to accomplish this that I have not thought of?



The D2 and AVM-50 have only one video processor, so you can't have two different types of processed video output at once.


Changing processed video output settings involves going into the Setup menu and entering the desired new values. This is not that hard, but it's not as simple as just pressing a button on the remote.


The Anthem has two memories for the entire set of Setup settings -- User and Installer. They save the same stuff and can be used interchangeably. You could, I suppose, save the settings you want for one display in the User settings and the settings for the other display in the Installer settings and then go into the Setup menu and Restore Saved User Settings vs. Restore Saved Installer Settings each time you want to make the change.


What most people do when they want to save their projector bulb by using a secondary display is to cable the second display via Component on the Anthem's Zone 2 output, and then set it to be an UNprocessed version of the Main path's video. The HDMI to the projector would be the processed Main output.


This would have all Main path source video processed to the projector, and Component video from the same source "passed through" unprocessed to the secondary display. You would depend on the processing inside the secondary display itself to handle different input resolutions for example. This will work fine so long as the sources are cabled for Component video as well as HDMI to the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can't make them fast enough is right! It's been 4 weeks since I ordered as of tomorrow. I spoke to my dealer today, and I was told that Anthem had an issue with a batch of bad video boards that needed to be repaired/replaced, and this has resulted in a back-up of getting D2's out. Of course I'm glad they caught this before sending the units out, but man, being patient is becoming a _real_ challenge!



I don't know if they caught all of them since it seems with testing so far that I received a D2 with a bad video board. I received it last week after a month of waiting and have been working with Nick for the past week trying to fix it. And no one here seems to know what is wrong with it either. Kinda dissapointing after waiting so long for it to arrive.


----------



## oink

Thanx, Bob.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thorr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As long as the preamp part is done well and you have a great amp, you should be all set. So please explain why the Anthem using 6+ year old technology would sound better than the Onkyo when using it only as a preamp. I am not trying to cause trouble. I am genuinely interested in knowing why the Anthem would sound better.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



No trouble here







Since I have not heard the Onkyo (or read any reviews for that matter) I can only go by the many many many reviews of the 20/30/50/D1/D2 specifically speaking about the audio portions. My own observation going from Onkyo (TS-DX series, so 2 generations ago) to Anthem was nothing short of an epiphony. I also followed the preamp thread you are refering to and dropped it after it started to get silly.


If you can find one to listen to, please get back to us and let us know what you think. As you have had the Anthem for a while I certainly would be interested in your opinion on the Onk. As always it is 'your' ears that matter.


For the time being I'll stick with the 'probable'







upgradeability and great service and support from Anthem. I emailed Onkyo twice about a problem I was having and never received a response. Every time I email Nick I get an answer within 2-3 days, sometimes within hours. As has been said, it is getting VERY frustrating waiting for this upgrade, so I feel your pain


----------



## lizard_king




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is just plain bizarre. If you asked me to design a projector to do this I'm not sure I could. The projector can't have any idea whether or not the video is processed -- particularly for Component input. But heck, if it works now then great!
> 
> 
> As for your XBOX: Be sure it's Component output is set to no higher than 1080i/60Hz (or 1080p/30Hz). That's as high as you can go on Component video input to process the video in the Anthem -- which you need to do to transcode it to HDMI output. Component 1080p/60Hz can only go through the Anthem UNprocessed (which means it can only go to the Component output). [Processed HDMI input/output can go up to 1080p/60z.]
> 
> --Bob



thanks, bob - the output from the XBOX is definitely 1080i right now - but it will not display as processed output on the Epson - either with component or with HDMI? Sounds eerily familiar to my original problem - does anyone on this forum have the XBOX 360 working on the AVM50 outputting through HDMI??


----------



## Catdaddy67

Strange that they didnt catch that one. My local dealer told me on Monday that Paradigm told them that my AVM50 had cleared customs and passed QC and that they were 3 day shipping it to them, for receipt today.


If my AVM50 ends up with the video problems, still, I wont have any choice but to return it for a refund and will just have to get another processor. I hope I wont have to do that as I have been waiting for quite some time, now.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thorr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To say the Onkyo will be obsolete in 2 years is kind of hard to believe since it fully supports everything that HD-DVD and Blurry have to offer and beyond (deep color).



Since HDMI 1.3b and HDMI 2.0 are already in the work and not far behind, it's not that hard to believe.










Like I said alot of times, the world doesn't stop spinning with HDMI 1.3. I don't understand why everyone think it is...


----------



## Mr. Foo

When did you place your order? My wait is now over 4 weeks.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Strange that they didnt catch that one. My local dealer told me on Monday that Paradigm told them that my AVM50 had cleared customs and passed QC and that they were 3 day shipping it to them, for receipt today.
> 
> 
> If my AVM50 ends up with the video problems, still, I wont have any choice but to return it for a refund and will just have to get another processor. I hope I wont have to do that as I have been waiting for quite some time, now.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Foo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When did you place your order? My wait is now over 4 weeks.



4 WEEKS or MORE Might be a good thing if you read this POST by Rob


----------



## Mr. Foo

I did see it. That's why I was asking.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 4 WEEKS or MORE Might be a good thing if you read this POST by Rob


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is great Dave!
> 
> 
> Now, as Bob said, please SHARE your gamma settings/tweaks. There are several RS1 owners who do, or will (ahem) have a D2/AVM 50, and one of the advantages of this is being able to compare notes. This sounds promising.



Well, Rob, I've got the D2, but still don't have the RS-1 (so much for being in the pre-order. I wonder if I'll get it before Christmas).


So which of us is in better shape right now?????


----------



## LEVESQUE

I'm now leaving for the FSI (Festival Son & Image) in Montreal. There will be an Anthem/Paradigm room there. They are showing the new Signature line of speaker, and particularly the new S6, with the Statement line.


I will try to make those Anthem reps talk! If nothing is working, I'm not putting aside the idea of using torture or any other means to coax them in telling me important and confidential information.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mike I can't really help you with your Onkyo decision, but for what it's worth I agree that Anthem has not met the expectations they created of a prompt upgrade path for AVM customers. It's a surprising lapse on their part given their otherwise excellent customer service record. Even if they ARE selling these things as fast as they can make them it should not be that hard to reserve a portion of shop time and video board production to service customers wanting upgrades.
> 
> ---Bob



Personally, I've never believed ANY manufacturer that future upgrades will occur. Been burned by Proceed with the AVP/PDSD, TIVO with the HR-250 HD-TIVO, and a multitude of others.


So, considering that Anthem has done the D1 > D2, I would put them way ahead of almost all manufacturers.


I know that doesn't help you one whit, but I do think they deserve some credit. Hopefully, at some point you will get your upgrade path as well.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm now leaving for the FSI (Festival Son & Image) in Montreal. There will be an Anthem/Paradigm room there. They are showing the new Signature line of speaker, and particularly the new S6, with the Statement line.
> 
> 
> I will try to make those Anthem reps talk! If nothing is working, I'm not putting aside the idea of using torture or any other means to coax them in telling me important and confidential information.



What is it you WANT them to talk about????????


I hope you have a Blackberry so you can communicate

with all of us on-the-road.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, Rob, I've got the D2, but still don't have the RS-1 (so much for being in the pre-order. I wonder if I'll get it before Christmas).
> 
> 
> So which of us is in better shape right now?????



Well, that is an excellent question Doc (just how many docs do we have here anyway







)! I am very happy with my RS1 upgrade. It was a bigger improvement over my 720p DLP than I thought it would be.


That said, I think the D2 has a lot more to "play with" in terms of tweaking. I have no doubt that the D2 will keep me busier in this regard. It comes down to how much you enjoy tweaking.


I'm glad I have my RS1. But I wish I had the D2 as well. I don't think I could tell you which I would rather have received first.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

As a follow up to the previous discussion of converting the 1080i/60 signal from HD-DVD or Blu-ray, I guess it has pretty much been confirmed that none of the VP's are currently doing this correctly.


In the Crystalio thread, for example:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DonnyD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The C2 is still defective with 1080i to 24/48/72 or taking 24 from Blue Ray. I thought it was posted it is the fault of the Gennum chip they are using which is why Lumagen waited for the next chip. It will work at times but it does stutter and if it hits a bad flag, if you pause, skip chapters or change channels you will have to work to get it to lock again. I think the C2 excels at 1080p60.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alan Gouger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> At this stage of the game I see 24 complicating things because no one seams to be doing it correctly. They have been doing 60 for so long 24 seams to be to new and complicating things. I hope in time it not only becomes a seamless feature but becomes the norm and 60 becomes a thing of the past. I think its to early in the game at this point.



These new formats can really be a pain in the a**!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As a follow up to the previous discussion of converting the 1080i/60 signal from HD-DVD or Blu-ray, I guess it has pretty much been confirmed that none of the VP's are currently doing this correctly.



Rob - The D2 does 24fps to 60 fps PERFECTLY.


It will do 24 fps to 24 fps - Perfectly if you have the

right video timings - which are all tweakable by the

end user or anthem if they make a preset for your

JVC.


As for 60 fps to 24 fps - None of them do that right

and in my opinion - who needs it? The only reason

for having 24 fps is for movies because that is the

frame-rate they are recorded in. If something is

already 60 fps - try to get back to 24 creates a

newer set of problems than going from 24 to 60.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I like 1080p/24 from the Elite to the RS1. I really do notice a difference. I would like to see that same improvement from my HD-DVD player that outputs 1080i/60, but as you say, none of the VP's are correctly converting that to 1080p/24.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I like 1080p/24 from the Elite to the RS1. I really do notice a difference. I would like to see that same improvement from my HD-DVD player that outputs 1080i/60, but as you say, none of the VP's are correctly converting that to 1080p/24.




I have the solution to that problem for you










Through out the HD DVD player that is NOT DOING 24 fps


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the solution to that problem for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Through out the HD DVD player that is NOT DOING 24 fps



Is there a HD-DVD player that does 1080p/24? I know some of them are supposed to receive FW upgrades to allow this, but has this happened?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a HD-DVD player that does 1080p/24? I know some of them are supposed to receive FW upgrades to allow this, but has this happened?



The only one that does it is the LG player.


It doesn't do much else - but it does do that.


I actually would not recommend it.


I would not HOLD MY BREATH for any FW update.

Doing 24 fps is usually a HARDWARE thing.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a HD-DVD player that does 1080p/24? I know some of them are supposed to receive FW upgrades to allow this, but has this happened?



No, not yet.


larry


----------



## djhamilton

I just got my AVM50, Sony Pearl, PS3 and Tosh HD-A2 hooked up and running. I connect all with HDMI. I set video out on the AVM50 to 1920x1080/24, but I played a blu-ray through the PS3 and a HD-DVD through the Tosh and both have very jumpy/jittery pictures. The sound seemed to be fine, but the motion was not good.


Any suggestions? I checked the menus on the PS3 and Tosh and they seem to be set correctly.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, not yet.
> 
> 
> larry



Larry - I got you










There is one


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As a follow up to the previous discussion of converting the 1080i/60 signal from HD-DVD or Blu-ray, I guess it has pretty much been confirmed that none of the VP's are currently doing this correctly.
> 
> 
> In the Crystalio thread, for example:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These new formats can really be a pain in the a**!




It look like what I experience during my 24fps test with the RS1.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, that is an excellent question Doc (just how many docs do we have here anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )! I am very happy with my RS1 upgrade. It was a bigger improvement over my 720p DLP than I thought it would be.



This week I returned the RS1 and went back to 720P. What a suffering


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a HD-DVD player that does 1080p/24? I know some of them are supposed to receive FW upgrades to allow this, but has this happened?




I bought the XA2 in the hope they will get a firmware upgrade to support 1080p24.


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> thanks, bob - the output from the XBOX is definitely 1080i right now - but it will not display as processed output on the Epson - either with component or with HDMI? Sounds eerily familiar to my original problem - does anyone on this forum have the XBOX 360 working on the AVM50 outputting through HDMI??



Yes currently have the Xbox360 connected to the AVM50, input thru component(1080i from 360) and output thru HDMI(1080p) to display.


And it looks and sounds marvelous


I should add the current software version is 1.06 on the AVM50 and therefore does not have the potential 1080i issue


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djhamilton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my AVM50, Sony Pearl, PS3 and Tosh HD-A2 hooked up and running. I connect all with HDMI. I set video out on the AVM50 to 1920x1080/24, but I played a blu-ray through the PS3 and a HD-DVD through the Tosh and both have very jumpy/jittery pictures. The sound seemed to be fine, but the motion was not good.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions? I checked the menus on the PS3 and Tosh and they seem to be set correctly.



You have to have a player that will output 24fps and neither of yours do. Even then I'm not sure if there may be a problem going through the AVM50 or not.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob - The D2 does 24fps to 60 fps PERFECTLY.
> 
> 
> It will do 24 fps to 24 fps - Perfectly if you have the
> 
> right video timings - which are all tweakable by the
> 
> end user or anthem if they make a preset for your
> 
> JVC.
> 
> 
> As for 60 fps to 24 fps - None of them do that right
> 
> and in my opinion - who needs it? The only reason
> 
> for having 24 fps is for movies because that is the
> 
> frame-rate they are recorded in. If something is
> 
> already 60 fps - try to get back to 24 creates a
> 
> newer set of problems than going from 24 to 60.



Presuming you have a display capable of producing judder free imagery when fed 1080p/24Hz film-based content, then 480i/60Hz or 1080i/60Hz conversion to 1080p/24Hz is useful for watching film-based movies that are received from video rate sources. This would include watching SDTV or HDTV movies, or movies from standard DVD players. It is also, of course, useful if you happen to have an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player that is not able to output 1080p/24Hz.


The problems we are seeing now are very reminiscent of the problems we had with the early "progressive" DVD players some years ago. This will all be sorted out.

-Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> thanks, bob - the output from the XBOX is definitely 1080i right now - but it will not display as processed output on the Epson - either with component or with HDMI? Sounds eerily familiar to my original problem - does anyone on this forum have the XBOX 360 working on the AVM50 outputting through HDMI??



I'm not at all convinced the Epson swap out is the answer here. I still think you have a problem in your AVM-50. But what's going on in your setup is very weird.


I wonder whether you might have some sort of systemic problem such as bad power, or a ground loop that is carrying power between your devices over the shields in the cables.

--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Finally! I'm up.


Just received an email today that my spot in the D1 upgrade queue is here. Just a little over 2 months since I originally inquired about the upgrade. Thankfully, I've going to be travelling over the next few weeks for work....so hopefully I won't miss it too much. Just returned from dropping it off at Fed Ex for 2nd day delivery










I do have a questions about the additional video zones since the main zone output will now be HDMI. How many seperate HD singnals can the D2 output at one time (using Zone 2 and Zone 3). The reason that I ask is that I would like to output HDMI to the projector and potentially feed 2 LCD displays. If possible, I'd like to do this with 3 different sources. Is this possible? I don't belive I could ouptut 2 differnt sources via component with the D1, but hopefully this has changed.


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> This week I returned the RS1 and went back to 720P. What a suffering



Why did you return the RS1??


----------



## Catdaddy67

I got my AVM50. 8) Will set it up in a little bit. 8)


----------



## Catdaddy67

I placed my order in on March 21. Your dealer may have gotten one or two, but if you werent at the top of your dealers list it kinda puts you in the same situation as those of us who are still 3rd batchers with AVS on the RS1 preorder.


My dealer may have also had an order in already. I know that they had 3 AVM50s on order when I got mine today, and they only got one. Thankfully, I went ahead and paid for mine when I ordered it .. so noone was able to snake it away from me.


----------



## lizard_king




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes currently have the Xbox360 connected to the AVM50, input thru component(1080i from 360) and output thru HDMI(1080p) to display.
> 
> 
> And it looks and sounds marvelous
> 
> 
> I should add the current software version is 1.06 on the AVM50 and therefore does not have the potential 1080i issue



Thanks - I have V1.11 of the software - it does work 720p out over processed - this is a known problem that is resolved in v1.11e or g - Nick has given me both and suggested 'g'....which I will do tomorrow....


----------



## lizard_king




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not at all convinced the Epson swap out is the answer here. I still think you have a problem in your AVM-50. But what's going on in your setup is very weird.
> 
> 
> I wonder whether you might have some sort of systemic problem such as bad power, or a ground loop that is carrying power between your devices over the shields in the cables.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - see note above - it turns out that I COULD get 720p processed through the AMV50 from the XBOX - Nick suggested upgrading to e or g - which i will try tomorrow..


However - I also know that I have some kind of ground loop problem involving my DTV - when it was hooked up through component video - audible hum - disconnect the component - hum goes away - now that i am ONLY connected via HDMI (data only) - should be OK - no hum that I can hear.....but there could be a grounding issue with my dish???


----------



## PooperScooper

Many times ground loop hum is improperly grounded cable-tv or sat cable coming into the house. Disconnecting the cable from the stb usually tells the story. Try it with component cables attached and see what happens.


larry


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I placed my order in on March 21. Your dealer may have gotten one or two, but if you werent at the top of your dealers list it kinda puts you in the same situation as those of us who are still 3rd batchers with AVS on the RS1 preorder.
> 
> 
> My dealer may have also had an order in already. I know that they had 3 AVM50s on order when I got mine today, and they only got one. Thankfully, I went ahead and paid for mine when I ordered it .. so noone was able to snake it away from me.



I've been waiting a month for my unit. This waiting is getting OLD.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, that is an excellent question Doc (just how many docs do we have here anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )!



I'm one also (but of the engineering variety), but I'm prone to using simple phrases (completely un-doctor like)


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got my AVM50. 8) Will set it up in a little bit. 8)



Way cool, congrats.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob - see note above - it turns out that I COULD get 720p processed through the AMV50 from the XBOX - Nick suggested upgrading to e or g - which i will try tomorrow..
> 
> 
> However - I also know that I have some kind of ground loop problem involving my DTV - when it was hooked up through component video - audible hum - disconnect the component - hum goes away - now that i am ONLY connected via HDMI (data only) - should be OK - no hum that I can hear.....but there could be a grounding issue with my dish???



OK, all is right with the world again! Yes, you've likely been bitten by the 1080i/1080p bug. The new software Nick is getting you should sort that out nicely.


---------------------------------


Ground loops from cable and satellite feeds are VERY common. And yes, it means either the feed is not properly grounded where it enters your house or that the shield side of the wiring inside your house (to the receiver) is not properly connected to that ground.


Fixiing a satellite feed ground loop is a bit of a nuisance because the receiver actually sends DC voltage back to the satellite dish to select which signals the dish receives. So you can't use the traditional "ground blocker" that cable customers use.


If an HDMI feed from your DTV dish leaves you without hum or interference lines in your video then you are fine. The DTV receiver has properly isolated the HDMI cable from the incoming nonsense.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm one also (but of the engineering variety), but I'm prone to using simple phrases (completely un-doctor like)



Well, I'm one also, but I refuse to say of what variety!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I'm one also, but I refuse to say of what variety!



You can't swing a dead HDMI cable around here without hitting a doctor around here.


----------



## Nevr2Big

Looking for some help before I pull out all remaining hair here.


I have a D2 feeding a JVC DLA-RS1 with the D2 video output set to 1080p/24 over HDMI. When I play standard DVDs on my Oppo 970 (which feeds the D2 via 480i HDMI) I see very frequent artifacts.


Being a rookie at all of this, I'm not sure what artifact I've got but its painfully obvious to all viewing that there is a problem. It is most evident when a figure/actor is in motion and there is a staggered appearance to the normal flow of their movement. This happens really quickly but is easily discernable by the eye. Its as if a frame or 2 are lost and then things lock back on again. Am I describing "judder" artifact or some type of 3:2 cadence issue?


From my set-up, it would seem that the problem lies with the Anthem D2 (as it should be doing the scaling of the Oppo signal and sending it to JVC which merely passes it through unprocessed. The OPPO is set to YCbCr 4:4:4 colorspace.


I have noticed this artifact much less frequently when playing Blu-ray discs (which is output at 1080p/24 via HDMI from Pioneer) and passes through D2. This confuses me as I would have guessed the D2 leaves the video information untouched. As this problem is only seen with very intermittent motion sequences I have guessed its not a projector problem.


Sorry for the long post. Any Ideas???


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Many times ground loop hum is improperly grounded cable-tv or sat cable coming into the house. Disconnecting the cable from the stb usually tells the story. Try it with component cables attached and see what happens.
> 
> 
> larry



You are right.


INFO for *lizard_king* - You can buy a

Ground Loop Isolator at your local Radio

Shack Store.

*Ground Loop Isolator Model: 270-054 $16.99*


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> D2 video output set to 1080p/24 over HDMI.



Set the D2 to output 1080p/60


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I'm one also, but I refuse to say of what variety!



Journalism ? Divinity ?


----------



## Catdaddy67

I didnt have a good first night with the AVM50.


Setting stuff up seemed easy. I have a 50 foot HDMI cable that works flawlessly directly from my Tosh hd-dvd or my PS3 to my PJ but seemed to drop out video, signal, too frequently when routed through AVM50. I was messing with crop and with 1080p24 output on one of my inputs last night, too, with my HD-DVD input and right after switching to 1080p24 I couldnt get the image straight ANYMORE, switching to 108060p or 108060i, or whatever setting really, right up to before I went to bed.


What I found strange was that in the PS3 input, the video was stable, except for the video/signal dropping out.


I am not nearly as tech savvy as I used to be, or I gave myself credit for so will struggle through some more of this later on. Sadly, this weekend is serving us a makeup weeked for my kids easter weekend, which was weathered out, so I will probably be out of town to my in laws for most of the weekend. 8(


I hope that a prolonged power off will revert my settings for my HD-DVD input to its pre 1080p24 attempt state.


8(


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I hope that a prolonged power off will revert my settings for my HD-DVD input to its pre 1080p24 attempt state.
> 
> 
> 8(



TWO things I can recommend.


STOP using 1080p/24 out of the AVM50.


Use 1080p/60


Any HDMI Cable length over 10 Meters is *Suicide*.

If you MUST MUST MUST have the 50 Ft length - you

are going to need a active repeater.


----------



## Nevr2Big




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Set the D2 to output 1080p/60




I have been reading for over a year now that feeding a projector some multiple of the 24 framerate was one of the holy grails, and should reduce such artifacts. The JVC is supposed to be able to support such an input.


Dont get me wrong, I'll try anything that works and will give your suggestion a shot! It just seems counter to all that I had been led to believe. Could the 1080p/24 output from the D2 be flawed? Is the JVC unit the culprit and not able to accurately process the 1080p/24 feed?


Thanks for your assistance.


----------



## Nevr2Big

As a follow-up: The good Dr. appears to be correct. After setting the D2 to 1080p/60 output the artifact appears tamed.


Should I set the BluRay player to output at 60 framerate as well (in order to avoid having the D2 perform 24 to 60 conversion, and then have projector redo 60 to 24 frame multiple conversion) ?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As a follow-up: The good Dr. appears to be correct. After setting the D2 to 1080p/60 output the artifact appears tamed.
> 
> 
> Should I set the BluRay player to output at 60 framerate as well (in order to avoid having the D2 perform 24 to 60 conversion, and then have projector redo 60 to 24 frame multiple conversion) ?



Holly Grail DOES NOT MEAN IT WORKS







Only

that is suppose to work.


If you have a Pioneer BDP-HD1 - then you can

output 1080p/24 from the Blu-Ray player and

have the AVM50 output 1080p/24 for THAT

SOURCE ONLY.


Any other source needs the AVM50 set to 1080p/60.


You may have been reading this thread for a year about

24 fps being the Holly Grail. But you missed the hundreds

of times people have been told - NO VP PROCESSOR

has yet been successful on changing some non-24fps

material to 24 fps.


Therefore until that day arrives - output 1080p/60.


Even with the Pioneer Player - your PJ may need special

Video timings not yet available to make even 24fps to 24fps

work. LEVESQUE and Anthem are working on those timings.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As DRHANKZ says, the RS1 is new enough that we're not yet sure if it needs custom video timings in the D2 for 1080p/24Hz output like the Sony Pearl does. The custom timings folks have reported for the Sony Pearl can be found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread. Custom video timings are entered into the D2 using the Live Video Settings Editor application.


If the video timings the D2 is using are correct, then 1080p/24Hz input to 1080p/24Hz output should work just fine with the RS1.


However, other input frame rates for film-based content, such as 480i/60Hz, 1080i/60Hz, or 1080p/60Hz as input to 1080p/24Hz as output, may still produce a stuttering, skipping effect if the D2 loses track of the repeat cadence. Anthem is working on this.


There are enough D2 owners using the RS1 at this point, that Anthem tech support may have further information that has not yet been reported here.


1080p/60Hz output to the RS1 will not have these problems, but will, of course, still have "normal" cadence judder which is far far less visible than the type of stuttering described above. Cadence judder exists all the time when watching movies on normal TVs. So if what you are seeing is more dramatically wrong than anything you've seen watching HDTV movies on your previous TV, then it is not "normal" cadence judder, but rather one or both of the two problems described above.


You will also get an annoying stutter, skipping effect if you have incorrectly used the Frame Lock feature and are forcing NON-movie content, such as normal TV shows to output to the projector at 1080p/24Hz. The idea is that you should ONLY EVER be trying the 1080p/24Hz output if the content you are viewing is actually film based content, i.e., content that was originally captured at 24 frames per second. See the Frame Lock link in the first post in this thread for more info.

--Bob


----------



## Nevr2Big




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Holly Grail DOES NOT MEAN IT WORKS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only
> 
> that is suppose to work.
> 
> 
> You may have been reading this thread for a year about
> 
> 24 fps being the Holly Grail. But you missed the hundreds
> 
> of times people have been told - NO VP PROCESSOR
> 
> has yet been successful on changing some non-24fps
> 
> material to 24 fps.
> 
> 
> Therefore until that day arrives - output 1080p/60.
> 
> .




Yes, I guess fact has once again trumped theory.


Alas the grail, nearly in our grasp, has become once again distant and unobtainable. Fare thee well Sir Lancelot Levesque and Anthem Knights of the Round Table in your quest.


In the mean time, I guess I'll stick with Dr. Hankz prescription and take a dose of 1080p/60 medicine until the problem has cleared.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djhamilton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my AVM50, Sony Pearl, PS3 and Tosh HD-A2 hooked up and running. I connect all with HDMI. I set video out on the AVM50 to 1920x1080/24, but I played a blu-ray through the PS3 and a HD-DVD through the Tosh and both have very jumpy/jittery pictures. The sound seemed to be fine, but the motion was not good.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions? I checked the menus on the PS3 and Tosh and they seem to be set correctly.



It's been reported here that the Sony Pearl needs custom video timings in the D2 or AVM-50 for 1080p/24Hz output. See the collection of links in the first post in this thread. You enter the custom timings using the Live Video Settings Editor application from Anthem.


With those timings in place 1080p/24Hz input to 1080p/24Hz output should work fine.


However, playing movies using sources producing OTHER input frame rates (i.e., 1080i/60Hhz) may still produce stutter like you describe if the Anthem loses track of the film repeat cadence. Anthem is working on this.


Try the custom timings for output to the Pearl. See the link in the first post of this thread for proper use of the Frame Lock feature. And contact Anthem tech support for any new updates on this if you still have a problem after that.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess I'll stick with Dr. Hankz prescription and take a dose of 1080p/60 medicine until the problem has cleared.
> 
> 
> Thanks



You and your family should still be SMILING with the

AVM50 and JVC and 1080p/60 with great sound from

the Anthem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I didnt have a good first night with the AVM50.
> 
> 
> Setting stuff up seemed easy. I have a 50 foot HDMI cable that works flawlessly directly from my Tosh hd-dvd or my PS3 to my PJ but seemed to drop out video, signal, too frequently when routed through AVM50. I was messing with crop and with 1080p24 output on one of my inputs last night, too, with my HD-DVD input and right after switching to 1080p24 I couldnt get the image straight ANYMORE, switching to 108060p or 108060i, or whatever setting really, right up to before I went to bed.
> 
> 
> What I found strange was that in the PS3 input, the video was stable, except for the video/signal dropping out.
> 
> 
> I am not nearly as tech savvy as I used to be, or I gave myself credit for so will struggle through some more of this later on. Sadly, this weekend is serving us a makeup weeked for my kids easter weekend, which was weathered out, so I will probably be out of town to my in laws for most of the weekend. 8(
> 
> 
> I hope that a prolonged power off will revert my settings for my HD-DVD input to its pre 1080p24 attempt state.
> 
> 
> 8(



Remember that if you get things so confused you can't find your way back you can always go to Setup / Save Restore Settings and Reload Factory Defaults.


If you've been playing with 1080p/24Hz and want to go back to "normal" /60Hz video, be sure that you turn off the Frame Lock feature as well. Select that input on the Anthem and then press and hold the "7" key on the remote to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. Go to the Output panel in that menu, scroll down to Frame Lock and confirm that it is "OFF".

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As DRHANKZ says, the RS1 is new enough that we're not yet sure if it needs custom video timings in the D2 for 1080p/24Hz output like the Sony Pearl does. The custom timings folks have reported for the Sony Pearl can be found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread. Custom video timings are entered into the D2 using the Live Video Settings Editor application.
> 
> 
> If the video timings the D2 is using are correct, then 1080p/24Hz input to 1080p/24Hz output should work just fine with the RS1.



I have been sending 1080p/24 from my Pioneer Elite HD1 directly to the JVC RS1, and I am very impressed. Although the improvement may be considered small by many, I have to say that it is definitely a noticeable improvement to me. The picture is smoother and seems more "solid".


I will definitely be disappointed if the D2 can't take that 1080p/24 signal from the Pioneer and pass it to the JVC. But I am confident that it will.


LEVESQUE- please feel free to chime in here, as I know you have both the Pioneer HD1 and the JVC!


----------



## Nevr2Big




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been sending 1080p/24 from my Pioneer Elite HD1 directly to the JVC RS1, and I am very impressed. Although the improvement may be considered small by many, I have to say that it is definitely a noticeable improvement to me. The picture is smoother and seems more "solid".
> 
> 
> I will definitely be disappointed if the D2 can't take that 1080p/24 signal from the Pioneer and pass it to the JVC. But I am confident that it will.
> 
> 
> LEVESQUE- please feel free to chime in here, as I know you have both the Pioneer HD1 and the JVC!



I'm sorry to report that sending the Pioneer BluRay HD1 1080p/24 via the D2 to JVC has had intemittent but quite obvious episodes of artifact which I'm guessing is judder.


I had hoped for the single wire (HDMI) solution thru the D2, passing 1080p/24 to the JVC, but given the fact that this artifact really bothers me, will likely have to run the HDMI direct to JVC projector, and run the audio out from Pioneer to D2 (is component or optical best?)


----------



## Catdaddy67

Just came back on for a few. Havent had much time to deal with this today. I am hopeful, that we wont be heading out to the in-laws til tomorrow which will give me time tonight to sort it out.


Is there an issue with switching between two HDMI inputs from devices that are running concurrently, as far as for audio?


I was actually watching my PS3 HDMI2 - DVD2 but I was getting audio from HDMI 1- DVD1, my tosh HD player. I messed with it for a few but figured there was something I was doing wrong. I didnt really have enough time to mess with it last night. I set it up so late and after getting frustrated with the 1080p24 I just went to bed for a recharge.


The cropping to 2.35 ratio is a piece of cake though, very easy.


----------



## lizard_king

I am having problems with my Toshiba HDdvd-A2 with v1.11g of the software - basically I have to unplug the DVD player to get it to resync? I thought that problem only existed with the XA2? I just downloaded new firmware to the A2 - so maybe that's it?


Crap - I think that means I have to go back to 1.11e?


----------



## Catdaddy67

Got it tamed earlier today. Just need to get a 30 foot HDMI cable for the drops.


Thanks for the tips!


----------



## yourlilbro

OK ordered my D2 from local dealer! Guess in 4 weeks I'll be in the D2 club! One thing I want to know is:


Should I put my PS3,360, on 1080i and let the VXP do the scaling or just do a pass-thru with 1080p from the consoles themselves?


----------



## lizard_king




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am having problems with my Toshiba HDdvd-A2 with v1.11g of the software - basically I have to unplug the DVD player to get it to resync? I thought that problem only existed with the XA2? I just downloaded new firmware to the A2 - so maybe that's it?
> 
> 
> Crap - I think that means I have to go back to 1.11e?



Went back to 1.11e and that seems to have solved the handshaking problem between the A2 and the AVM50 - beware....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK ordered my D2 from local dealer! Guess in 4 weeks I'll be in the D2 club! One thing I want to know is:
> 
> 
> Should I put my PS3,360, on 1080i and let the VXP do the scaling or just do a pass-thru with 1080p from the consoles themselves?



If your display handles 1080p in native format - then set

your sources at 1080p.


----------



## yourlilbro

Thanks for the answer Hank! (Not sure if that's your name)


OT:I purchased the HC5000 since I was blown away with its punchy picture and sharpness. dropping it to low lamp made the blacks almost on par with the Pearl!


----------



## Nevr2Big




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you've been playing with 1080p/24Hz and want to go back to "normal" /60Hz video, be sure that you turn off the Frame Lock feature as well. Select that input on the Anthem and then press and hold the "7" key on the remote to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. Go to the Output panel in that menu, scroll down to Frame Lock and confirm that it is "OFF".
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for your and drhankz suggestions. I have gone into the menus and placed frame lock to auto for my Pioneer Bluray player. It appears from the "info" menus that 1080p/24 is being input to the D2 and leaving it (with frame lock activated). Initial viewing suggests that this has helped quite a bit (with far less to resolved judder artifact).


Am I correct that this frame lock and 1080p/24 output setting will ONLY affect inputs using that same HDMI inputt on the D2 (and will leave other HDMI inputs which I have set to 1080p/60 out) alone?


Last question if you will indulge me:

I am going to implement an RTI RF remote system and am trying to figure out if there are discrete codes for the Anthem D2 SSP subsources. Right now I have my D2 set-up such that OPPO is feeding HDMI1, Blu-Ray feeds HDMI2, and PS3 feeds HDMI3 - however all are under SSP headings DVD1, DVD2, and DVD3 (hope what I'm writing makes sense!). Presently, when I want to play the Blu-Ray player I push the SSP "dvd" button until I see "Blu-Ray" (aka dvd2) displayed on the Anthems face display. Now for the question: is there a specific code that can get me to say "dvd2" (my Blu-Ray player input) without having to roll through the SSP dvd sources? If not, should I paste over my dvd2 setting to some unused SSP buttons (like vcr or tape) to accomplish what I need?


Thanks - you have been a great help.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You can't swing a dead HDMI cable around here without hitting a doctor around here.


----------



## Don O’Brien

I have a D2 with v1.11 with the 1080i bug. With the information above about 1.11g and toshiba A2 I am reluctant to upgrade to v1.11g. I have been sent a the AVM50 version of the 1.11e firmware. Can that be used with D2? If not, does anybody have a copy of D2 with 1.11e?

[email protected] 


Thank for any assistance


Regards,

Don O'Brien


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for your and drhankz suggestions. I have gone into the menus and placed frame lock to auto for my Pioneer Bluray player. It appears from the "info" menus that 1080p/24 is being input to the D2 and leaving it (with frame lock activated). Initial viewing suggests that this has helped quite a bit (with far less to resolved judder artifact).
> 
> 
> Am I correct that this frame lock and 1080p/24 output setting will ONLY affect inputs using that same HDMI inputt on the D2 (and will leave other HDMI inputs which I have set to 1080p/60 out) alone?
> 
> 
> Last question if you will indulge me:
> 
> I am going to implement an RTI RF remote system and am trying to figure out if there are discrete codes for the Anthem D2 SSP subsources. Right now I have my D2 set-up such that OPPO is feeding HDMI1, Blu-Ray feeds HDMI2, and PS3 feeds HDMI3 - however all are under SSP headings DVD1, DVD2, and DVD3 (hope what I'm writing makes sense!). Presently, when I want to play the Blu-Ray player I push the SSP "dvd" button until I see "Blu-Ray" (aka dvd2) displayed on the Anthems face display. Now for the question: is there a specific code that can get me to say "dvd2" (my Blu-Ray player input) without having to roll through the SSP dvd sources? If not, should I paste over my dvd2 setting to some unused SSP buttons (like vcr or tape) to accomplish what I need?
> 
> 
> Thanks - you have been a great help.



The Frame Lock setting is a per-input setting just like all the other settings in the Video Source Adjust menu.


The Setup / Video Output settings apply across ALL input devices.


Anthem's recommendation in the manual, discussed further in the Frame Lock link found in the first post of this thread, is to set your Video Output to /24Hz and then use Frame Lock to change that to /60Hz for inputs that are presenting video based source content.


But that recommendation assumes that 480i/60Hz or 1080i/60Hz conversion to 1080p/24Hz is working correctly, which is not now the case. The idea is that if you know a 1080i/60Hz source (for example) is actually showing a movie that has been raised to video frame rate in the normal way by repeating fields -- as with any film-based movie shown on an HDTV channel -- you would then, for the duration of that movie, turn OFF Frame Lock on that input. The Anthem would now be forced to convert the 1080i/60Hz input to your previously specified Video Output of 1080p/24Hz since it is no longer Frame Locking to the input rate. In doing that, the Anthem (if it were working correctly) would detect and remove the repeated fields, thus producing judder-free imagery.


For now, you can get 1080p/24Hz input to 1080p/24Hz output by simply setting your Video Output to /60Hz (as normal for TV program viewing) and then using Frame Lock on ONLY your /24Hz input sources to change the output to /24Hz when viewing such sources.


-----------------------------------------------------------


The Anthem has multi-key codes for directly selecting inputs and making other settings. See Appendix A in the Anthem manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Don O'Brien* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a D2 with v1.11 with the 1080i bug. With the information above about 1.11g and toshiba A2 I am reluctant to upgrade to v1.11g. I have been sent a the AVM50 version of the 1.11e firmware. Can that be used with D2? If not, does anybody have a copy of D2 with 1.11e?
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> Thank for any assistance
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Don O'Brien



Don, the AVM-50 and D2 software builds are different because the hardware is different. Do not try to install one on the other. The installer SHOULD refuse to let you do it, but don't try it anyway.


I don't have the D2 V1.11e stuff, but I'm sure someone else here can help you. You should also contact Anthem tech support and let them know what's going on so that they can keep track of who's using which version of the test software, and so that they can get you improved versions once they fix whatever's wrong in V1.11g and V1.11h.

--Bob


----------



## Don O’Brien

Bob,

thanks for the clarification. I had a strong suspicion that AVM50 would not work with the D2, and did not even give a shot. I will contact Frank, who was very responsive to my request. Same day response via phone and then an email by the end of the same day.


BTW, you assisted me with an IR macro related issue a few pages earlier. I had another manufacturers preamp and used the front and rear IR without an incident, but you nailed the problem with the D2 on the Head! If you use a pronto tsu7500 and the rear IR input with your preamp in the room (mine is at 8 o'clock if 12 is the screen) turn off the front IR. It will interfere with the proper execution of the 3 step macros that are necessary for discrete input and audio mode selection.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Don O'Brien* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> thanks for the clarification. I had a strong suspicion that AVM50 would not work with the D2, and did not even give a shot. I will contact Frank, who was very responsive to my request. Same day response via phone and then an email by the end of the same day.
> 
> 
> BTW, you assisted me with an IR macro related issue a few pages earlier. I had another manufacturers preamp and used the front and rear IR without an incident, but you nailed the problem with the D2 on the Head! If you use a pronto tsu7500 and the rear IR input with your preamp in the room (mine is at 8 o'clock if 12 is the screen) turn off the front IR. It will interfere with the proper execution of the 3 step macros that are necessary for discrete input and audio mode selection.



Glad the IR thing worked out for you! Yes, some devices automatically disable the normal IR input if something is connected to the wired control input. The Anthem lets you use both just in case the receiver for the wired control is in a different room and so you still want the normal (front) input to be left active for use in the room where the Anthem itself is sitting. But you can enable/disable them independently in the Anthem, and even have different settings for the different Anthem Zone paths. So you could have the Main path controlled by the normal front IR input while the Zone 2 path is only controlled by the wired input from another room! It's very flexible, but does mean you need to set things up right when you decide to use the wired control inputs.

--Bob


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been sending 1080p/24 from my Pioneer Elite HD1 directly to the JVC RS1, and I am very impressed. Although the improvement may be considered small by many, I have to say that it is definitely a noticeable improvement to me. The picture is smoother and seems more "solid".
> 
> 
> I will definitely be disappointed if the D2 can't take that 1080p/24 signal from the Pioneer and pass it to the JVC. But I am confident that it will.
> 
> 
> LEVESQUE- please feel free to chime in here, as I know you have both the Pioneer HD1 and the JVC!



It should do it just fine. I had the Sony BD player passing 24 through the D2. You just have to set the Frame Lock on and it will pass it through while leaving the other inputs at 60hz. I did have audio issues doing this though, for some reason the newest firmware I got from Anthem made it so I could get 24 video just fine, but I would lose audio. The firmware I had before (e?) worked just fine for both audio and video.


----------



## PooperScooper

Well, it looks like the video section in my D2 may have died. Since last weekend I've only used it for audio for watching cable TV (component straight to display). Went to watch a BD disc today and no video output from the D2. No setup screen. Hdmi cable is fine and so is input on display - DVD player works just fine directly connected. D2 never sees video input from DVD player via HDMI or Tivo via s-video. Did a power cycle or two and nothing is different. So, I'll guess I'll email Nick and see if he has any ideas.


larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It should do it just fine. I had the Sony BD player passing 24 through the D2. You just have to set the Frame Lock on and it will pass it through while leaving the other inputs at 60hz. I did have audio issues doing this though, for some reason the newest firmware I got from Anthem made it so I could get 24 video just fine, but I would lose audio. The firmware I had before (e?) worked just fine for both audio and video.



Yes, some weird HDMI audio issues cropped up starting with V1.11f and apparently continued in V1.11g and V1.11h. I don't know how close Anthem might be to a V1.11i to try to address this, but reports in this thread are that V1.11e is the most bug free of the test software versions at this point.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

I have a question. I hooked up my Xa2 to the D2 via a HDMI cable. When I am watching a HD DVD. It doesn't give me an option for DTS or DD, etc. When I hit mode nothing happens. Any ideas?


Michael


----------



## lazarus28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Don O'Brien* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a D2 with v1.11 with the 1080i bug. With the information above about 1.11g and toshiba A2 I am reluctant to upgrade to v1.11g. I have been sent a the AVM50 version of the 1.11e firmware. Can that be used with D2? If not, does anybody have a copy of D2 with 1.11e?
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> Thank for any assistance
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Don O'Brien



Waiting for you in your inbox. . . .


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a question. I hooked up my Xa2 to the D2 via a HDMI cable. When I am watching a HD DVD. It doesn't give me an option for DTS or DD, etc. When I hit mode nothing happens. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Michael



Which device is confusing you here? The XA2 or the D2?


For HD-DVD playback over HDMI to the D2 you want to set the XA2 to PCM output. Then select a high quality track from your disc (typically the TrueHD track). The XA2 decodes it and sends it to the D2 as a set of PCM streams.


The D2 sees it as multi-channel, high bandwidth, digital audio. There's no DTS or DD involved at all because there's no "bitstream" going to the D2. If you have a 7.1 speaker setup, you should be able to engage one of the post processing modes (such as Dolby Pro Logic IIx) to raise the 5.1 channel PCM input to the 7.1 speaker output.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, it looks like the video section in my D2 may have died. Since last weekend I've only used it for audio for watching cable TV (component straight to display). Went to watch a BD disc today and no video output from the D2. No setup screen. Hdmi cable is fine and so is input on display - DVD player works just fine directly connected. D2 never sees video input from DVD player via HDMI or Tivo via s-video. Did a power cycle or two and nothing is different. So, I'll guess I'll email Nick and see if he has any ideas.
> 
> 
> larry



Larry,

If you want to try to diagnose this further yourself, start by focussing on the video output from the D2. Turn off or disconnect all your input sources so that there is no video input. Then see if you can get the Anthem generated video to your display from either the Main Component or HDMI outputs. This would include the blue screen background (the default with no video input), the Setup menu, and the Video Source Adjust menu.


Work it like you are setting things up from scratch. Try setting a different Setup / Video Output resolution for example. Try both settings of Setup / Video Output / HDMI Sync.


Make sure you have the remote sending commands to the Main path, and that what is supposed to be happening is actually happening in the Anthem's front panel display.


All that sort of basic stuff.


But I'll tell you the first thing I always check if there is an HDMI video problem is whether the HDMI plugs are fully inserted in the sockets at both ends. It only takes a little bit of slippage (under the weight of the cable for example) to lose the connection.

--Bob


----------



## lizard_king

Another intersting discovery (for me anyway). The Bell Expressvu 9200 series receiver (PVR + HDTV) does not output multi-channel sound over the HDMI output - only 2-channel - which means I have to leave my optical hooked up....anyone else experienced this?


Edit: Upon further review it appears that the 9200 HDMI is outputting PCM that the AVM50 is interpreting as 2-channel .... are there any Canucks out there with the Expressvu 9200 working over the HDMI with sound? what am i doing wrong? I thought i tried ALL the audio options out from the 9200 (and the Bell helpdesk, as usual, was HELPLESS) -


thanks


bill


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Which device is confusing you here? The XA2 or the D2?
> 
> 
> For HD-DVD playback over HDMI to the D2 you want to set the XA2 to PCM output. Then select a high quality track from your disc (typically the TrueHD track). The XA2 decodes it and sends it to the D2 as a set of PCM streams.
> 
> 
> The D2 sees it as multi-channel, high bandwidth, digital audio. There's no DTS or DD involved at all because there's no "bitstream" going to the D2. If you have a 7.1 speaker setup, you should be able to engage one of the post processing modes (such as Dolby Pro Logic IIx) to raise the 5.1 channel PCM input to the 7.1 speaker output.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,


One more question, when I go to setting on the disk, all I see under Menu Audio is a check box for Button Audio, am I doing something wrong?


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Larry,
> 
> If you want to try to diagnose this further yourself, start by focussing on the video output from the D2. Turn off or disconnect all your input sources so that there is no video input. Then see if you can get the Anthem generated video to your display from either the Main Component or HDMI outputs. This would include the blue screen background (the default with no video input), the Setup menu, and the Video Source Adjust menu.
> 
> 
> Work it like you are setting things up from scratch. Try setting a different Setup / Video Output resolution for example. Try both settings of Setup / Video Output / HDMI Sync.
> 
> 
> Make sure you have the remote sending commands to the Main path, and that what is supposed to be happening is actually happening in the Anthem's front panel display.
> 
> 
> All that sort of basic stuff.
> 
> 
> But I'll tell you the first thing I always check if there is an HDMI video problem is whether the HDMI plugs are fully inserted in the sockets at both ends. It only takes a little bit of slippage (under the weight of the cable for example) to lose the connection.
> 
> --Bob



I did some of that. I had to disconnect the HDMI cable output to connect to my Oppo to verify the cable and P50 were working. After putting it back still zip on HDMI output. No blue screen (for once I'd like to see a blue screen







) and no setup output. It doesn't see any video input, HDMI or s-video (according to status display).


larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Another intersting discovery (for me anyway). The Bell Expressvu 9200 series receiver (PVR + HDTV) does not output multi-channel sound over the HDMI output - only 2-channel - which means I have to leave my optical hooked up....anyone else experienced this?
> 
> 
> Edit: Upon further review it appears that the 9200 HDMI is outputting PCM that the AVM50 is interpreting as 2-channel .... are there any Canucks out there with the Expressvu 9200 working over the HDMI with sound? what am i doing wrong? I thought i tried ALL the audio options out from the 9200 (and the Bell helpdesk, as usual, was HELPLESS) -
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> bill



It is not unusual for older HDMI devices to only put out stereo audio on HDMI (which goes out as 2 channels of PCM) since they expect the HDMI to be hooked directly to a TV and most TVs only handle stereo. Even the Anthems only put out stereo (a 2 channel, PCM "downmix" of the Main path's multi-channel audio) on their HDMI output for precisely this reason.


Some HDMI devices have separate audio output settings for digital audio on their optical output and on their HDMI output. Look for both places to set this. You have to set the digital audio for "bitstream" output (possibly labeled "Dolby Digital") to get the multi-channel bitstream sent to the D2. By default it will likely be set to "PCM" output (possibly labeled "stereo") under the assumption the other side of the HDMI cable can't handle a Dolby Digital bitstream.


Also be aware that even if you have everything set up correctly, the vast majority of cable TV programs are only broadcast in normal mono or stereo sound. This will come across either the optical cable or the HDMI cable as 1 or 2 channels of PCM. Only those programs broadcast in Dolby Digital audio can be played as multi-channel. And even then, not all DD programs are DD5.1. Some are merely DD2.0 -- still stereo but sent as a Dolby Digital bitstream.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did some of that. I had to disconnect the HDMI cable output to connect to my Oppo to verify the cable and P50 were working. After putting it back still zip on HDMI output. No blue screen (for once I'd like to see a blue screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and no setup output. It doesn't see any video input, HDMI or s-video (according to status display).
> 
> 
> larry



Yes it sounds like your video board is dead. You should be able to get the Anthem's internally generated video independent of any input video sources, and indeed that's the way to test it. Focus on getting the Anthem output working correctly first, and then see if there are still problems when you actually turn on your video input sources.


I would try Main Component output as well (again using just the Anthem's own internally generated video), as that would eliminate the possibility that it is just the HDMI output socket which is bad.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> One more question, when I go to setting on the disk, all I see under Menu Audio is a check box for Button Audio, am I doing something wrong?



I'm afraid your question has me confused. I'm not sure which menus you are talking about. Perhaps one of the XA2 owners here could chime in.

--Bob


----------



## lazarus28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm afraid your question has me confused. I'm not sure which menus you are talking about. Perhaps one of the XA2 owners here could chime in.
> 
> --Bob



He's talking about the HD DVD Movie menu, NOT the player Setup menu. The button option turns the clicks on and off when navigating the menu.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, it looks like the video section in my D2 may have died. Since last weekend I've only used it for audio for watching cable TV (component straight to display). Went to watch a BD disc today and no video output from the D2. No setup screen. Hdmi cable is fine and so is input on display - DVD player works just fine directly connected. D2 never sees video input from DVD player via HDMI or Tivo via s-video. Did a power cycle or two and nothing is different. So, I'll guess I'll email Nick and see if he has any ideas.
> 
> 
> larry



This happened to me once about a month after I had the unit.


I did a backup of settings, then did a reinitialization to original configuration, video came back and then I reset to later software update and restored settings.


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lizard_king* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Another intersting discovery (for me anyway). The Bell Expressvu 9200 series receiver (PVR + HDTV) does not output multi-channel sound over the HDMI output - only 2-channel - which means I have to leave my optical hooked up....anyone else experienced this?
> 
> 
> Edit: Upon further review it appears that the 9200 HDMI is outputting PCM that the AVM50 is interpreting as 2-channel .... are there any Canucks out there with the Expressvu 9200 working over the HDMI with sound? what am i doing wrong? I thought i tried ALL the audio options out from the 9200 (and the Bell helpdesk, as usual, was HELPLESS) -
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> bill



Sadly we also discovered the same issue with the 9200, we currently have it connected to the optical connection for audio. The manual also indicates that multi channel will only be output on the optical connection.


Although a fairly new device for Bell, its an obsolete Dish Network device, and Bob's comments certainly likely apply here.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It should do it just fine. I had the Sony BD player passing 24 through the D2. You just have to set the Frame Lock on and it will pass it through while leaving the other inputs at 60hz. I did have audio issues doing this though, for some reason the newest firmware I got from Anthem made it so I could get 24 video just fine, but I would lose audio. The firmware I had before (e?) worked just fine for both audio and video.



Thanks Kris, this sounds promising. Obviously it would be nice if they could get any potential audio problems worked out as well!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, it looks like the video section in my D2 may have died. Since last weekend I've only used it for audio for watching cable TV (component straight to display). Went to watch a BD disc today and no video output from the D2. No setup screen. Hdmi cable is fine and so is input on display - DVD player works just fine directly connected. D2 never sees video input from DVD player via HDMI or Tivo via s-video. Did a power cycle or two and nothing is different. So, I'll guess I'll email Nick and see if he has any ideas.
> 
> 
> larry



Unbelievable. This has been one hell of a week for D2 issues. I can't help but wonder if this has anything to do with the bad video boards that I was told about, as your unit is one of the newer ones.


I hope you get this resolved quickly Larry.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Unbelievable. This has been one hell of a week for D2 issues. I can't help but wonder if this has anything to do with the bad video boards that I was told about, as your unit is one of the newer ones.



Looks that way. Mine was never flakey, it just stopped working (video, audio is fine). Must be payback for only having to wait 1.5 weeks to get it.











larry


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This happened to me once about a month after I had the unit.
> 
> 
> I did a backup of settings, then did a reinitialization to original configuration, video came back and then I reset to later software update and restored settings.



I did download the PC program and save my settings and was going to trying that. I ran out of time, hopefully tonight I'll get a chance. Maybe there's hope...


larry


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks that way. Mine was never flakey, it just stopped working (video, audio is fine). Must be payback for only having to wait 1.5 weeks to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> larry



Well, at least you appear to have a positive attitude about it. I don't know that I would.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

1080p/24...


With pre-Frame Lock software:

Use Live Video Settings Editor and trial and error in hope of finding magic numbers.


With current software:

If source puts out 23.976 Hz (technically, Blu-ray is not 24.000) and display accepts that, set Frame Lock to Auto in the video processing menu Preamp output frame rate will be identical to source frame rate, overriding menu 8 setting.


Suggestion - set one layer with Frame Lock Off (e.g. DVD1) and another with Frame Lock Auto (e.g. DVD2) all else being equal. Press the DVD button to toggle between the two (you will have to unless you never watch 60 Hz sources). There is no On setting because some sources cannot be locked on to.


Back door in case Frame Lock is turned on and screen becomes blank (i.e. your display does not accept source's rate) - press and hold Mode, when front panel says Scale Output press Mode twice again so Frame Lock is displayed, then press up or down arrow key to change setting from Auto to Off.


Further questions or comments: sfitech at sonicfrontiers dot com


Edit: Set menu 8 output to 60 Hz (or 50 Hz if you are in a PAL region) regardless of Frame Lock status


----------



## Randall Morton

I had forgotten about the frame lock setting when I tried the 24fps output to the RS1. I went back and changed frame lock to auto and the 24fps seems to be working correctly with my Toshiba XA2 as far as I can tell. I've only looked at one HDDVD, but it seems like the motion is smoother. I haven't tried an SD DVD yet, but I will check more this evening.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, at least you appear to have a positive attitude about it. I don't know that I would.



That's just my "forum face".







You win some, you lose some. It's not like I can go get my money back and buy something comparable from another manufacturer unless I went to a 2 piece solution (which is not out of the question).


larry


----------



## Randall Morton

With Frame lock set to auto and output set to 1080P/24 I am having trouble with other sources such as my desktop. On the desktop I get horizontal lines scrolling up the screen. I guess the Auto should take care of this but I don't think it is glitch free.

Looks like I will have to change the output anytime I want to watch in 24 fps unless I bypass the Anthem with a player that will output 24 fps directly to the projector.


----------



## legacyrocks

Hi. I am a new member and I have also been waiting 4 weeks now for a AVM 50. I will be hooking up all my video sources with HDMI. What source input should I use if connecting to a 1280x720p dlp tv. PS3 720p or 1080i? Oppo DV-98HD 480p or 720p or 1080i? Directv HDR 10-250 480i or 720p or 1080i? Hp Digital Entertainment pc DVI to HDMI 720p or 1080i? Thanks.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1080p/24...
> 
> 
> With pre-Frame Lock software:
> 
> Use Live Video Settings Editor and trial and error in hope of finding magic numbers.
> 
> 
> With current software:
> 
> If source puts out 23.976 Hz (technically, Blu-ray is not 24.000) and display accepts that, set Frame Lock to Auto in the video processing menu Preamp output frame rate will be identical to source frame rate, overriding menu 8 setting.
> 
> 
> Suggestion - set one layer with Frame Lock Off (e.g. DVD1) and another with Frame Lock Auto (e.g. DVD2) all else being equal. Press the DVD button to toggle between the two (you will have to unless you never watch 60 Hz sources). There is no On setting because some sources cannot be locked on to.
> 
> 
> Back door in case Frame Lock is turned on and screen becomes blank (i.e. your display does not accept source's rate) - press and hold Mode, when front panel says Scale Output press Mode twice again so Frame Lock is displayed, then press up or down arrow key to change setting from Auto to Off.
> 
> 
> Further questions or comments: sfitech at sonicfrontiers dot com
> 
> 
> Edit: Set menu 8 output to 60 Hz (or 50 Hz if you are in a PAL region) regardless of Frame Lock status



Thanks for posting this Nick, much appreciated!


For Nick or anyone else: what software is considered "pre-Frame Lock"? Edit: nevermind, looks like Frame Lock was added with version 1.10.


----------



## AnthemAVM

I am running a JL F113 sub, and not getting the Bass I was looking for. I am running V1.10 software on the D2.


I have the front speakers set to small, and crossover at 80hz THX. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?


Thanks


----------



## mr_fitz

Is there any way to select stereo audio out when DD5.1 is fed into the D2? There are times when watching cable tv that I would prefer to listen to it in stereo rather than DD5.1.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am running a JL F113 sub, and not getting the Bass I was looking for. I am running V1.10 software on the D2.
> 
> 
> I have the front speakers set to small, and crossover at 80hz THX. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?
> 
> 
> Thanks



If it's multiple channel PCM source you are probably hitting the "LFE bug" that is fixed in 1.11. Does raising the subwoofer +10db on the D2 make things sound about right?










larry


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If it's multiple channel PCM source you are probably hitting the "LFE bug" that is fixed in 1.11. Does raising the subwoofer +10db on the D2 make things sound about right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> larry



A little better. I will try the upgrade this weekend.


Michael


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there any way to select stereo audio out when DD5.1 is fed into the D2? There are times when watching cable tv that I would prefer to listen to it in stereo rather than DD5.1.



The easiest way is likely to switch the digital audio output of your cable TV box to "PCM", possibly labeled "stereo", which tells it not to send the DD5.1 bitstream to the D2. You will get the standard stereo program audio instead (sent to the D2 as 2 channels of PCM).


There's no way I know of to get the D2's Main path audio to downmix to stereo and come out the main speaker outputs.


However you will always get a stereo downmix on the HDMI output if you are using the TV's speakers. You will also always get a stereo downmix if you Copy Main to the Zone2, Zone3, or VCR/Tape analog Record outputs.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am running a JL F113 sub, and not getting the Bass I was looking for. I am running V1.10 software on the D2.
> 
> 
> I have the front speakers set to small, and crossover at 80hz THX. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Also make sure you have the crossover in the sub itself either disabled or cranked up the highest frequency to keep it out of the way. The D2 is already doing the crossover processing and you don't want it done twice.


This may sound silly, but make sure you have the D2 connected to the line level input on the sub and not to its speaker level inputs.


And make sure you haven't accidentally engaged any of the temporary audio adjustments on the D2 that might lower bass output, such as Dynamics or the Sub/LFE adjustments available via buttons on the remote control.


Finally, use a Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter when setting the Sub output level in the D2's Setup / Speaker Level menu. The inexpensive Radio Shack meter is the one everyone uses. It is MUCH tougher to set Sub levels well by ear alone.


--------------------------------------------------------------


Measure the different frequencies of test tones available in the Setup / Speaker Configuration / Room Resonance Filter menu. You will likely discover that you have signifcant peaks and dips in your bass response. Substantial dips can sound like weak bass when in fact it is just that your room is sucking up the bass (cancelling it due to reflection). Moving the Sub around a bit can have a big impact on these. You may also have cancellation around the cross-over frequency if you have not properly adjust the Bass Polarity and Phase to keep Sub output from being cancelled by main speaker bass output.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legacyrocks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi. I am a new member and I have also been waiting 4 weeks now for a AVM 50. I will be hooking up all my video sources with HDMI. What source input should I use if connecting to a 1280x720p dlp tv. PS3 720p or 1080i? Oppo DV-98HD 480p or 720p or 1080i? Directv HDR 10-250 480i or 720p or 1080i? Hp Digital Entertainment pc DVI to HDMI 720p or 1080i? Thanks.



Welcome! There's a collection of links with all sorts of useful info in the first post in this thread.


Check out the one marked "video calibration for non-ISF techs". That should get you going.

--Bob


----------



## PooperScooper

Talked to Nick today, my D2 is getting replaced. Supposedly replacement units get a high priority in the distribution queue. We'll see...










larry


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Talked to Nick today, my D2 is getting replaced. Supposedly replacement units get a high priority in the distribution queue. We'll see...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> larry



That is the PROPER priority. Owners have already

paid and committed - they should get priority.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Talked to Nick today, my D2 is getting replaced. Supposedly replacement units get a high priority in the distribution queue. We'll see...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> larry




You'll probably be getting my unit then!


----------



## Catdaddy67

Good to know how responsive Anthem is with issues. 8) They should get Rob his D2, though. He can get pretty vocal if he gets riled up. 8)


----------



## Randall Morton

In trying to reduce the saturation on my RS1 I've been playing with the Live Video Settings Editor. I changed the custom RGB Slopes to 95% max on Red and Blue and to 90% max on Green. I think it reduced the saturation and green glow a bit. I'm just guessing because I don't have any way of measuring, but I like the picture better this way.


Also I've played a bit more material using 1080P input and changing to 1080P/24 output. I think it is working correctly but the HDMI connections are not as stable. It takes longer to lock on when switching sources. It doesn't work for cable because of the 1080i output. Also it doesn't work well with a PC, but it does work.


For HDDVD and DVD input at 1080P it seems to be working well. I watched one of my older SD DVDs and was just amazed at the picture and sound(The Fallen).


----------



## Nevr2Big




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In trying to reduce the saturation on my RS1 I've been playing with the Live Video Settings Editor. I changed the custom RGB Slopes to 95% max on Red and Blue and to 90% max on Green. I think it reduced the saturation and green glow a bit. I'm just guessing because I don't have any way of measuring, but I like the picture better this way.
> 
> 
> 
> For HDDVD and DVD input at 1080P it seems to be working well. I watched one of my older SD DVDs and was just amazed at the picture and sound(The Fallen).



I'm in the same boat with the RS1 and will begin to play with the Live Video Setting editor when I get the chance. Thanks for the tip.


I assume your SD DVD's are being converted to 1080p by your HDDVD player and then output at 1080p/24? I have to check if my Pioneer will do that...


----------



## Randall Morton

I think my DVD player is outputting 1080P/60. The D2 converts this to 1080P/24. I think where the glitch in the D2 is, is the auto part of the frame lock. Once it is locked, its good unless you try switching sources.


I've got a new screen ordered and when it gets here I'm going to try and get an ISF calibration. There doesn't seem to be too many ISF guys in my area and the one I've been talking to has never worked with an Anthem or an RS1. I figure the more I can learn now will make things go faster for the calibrator.


In the video setting editor you open up the Advanced Video settings tab at the bottom of the list. You then choose custom gamma correction. This will open up a graph with a sloped line with points. You can choose to alter Custom Gamma 1 or Custom Gamma 2.


I used the Custom Gamma 2 which allows individual adjustment for offset or gain of the primaries. Slope affects gain, position affects offset. I didn't play with any of the offsets because I don't have any calibration equipment and I wanted to keep it simple. I lowered the slope a bit and I lowered it a bit more for the green primary. You choose the primary and click on the load standard curve button. This brings up a box that will allow you to adjust the curve in a controlled manner. I just used the linear shift slider to decrease the slope a bit.


When you get the slopes where you want you click on the Advanced video settings line again. You then get the option to upload either or both of the custom gamma curves and you're done.


Now when you go into your video processing menu(7) and choose either of the custom gamma curves or choose gamma correction off. This makes it very easy to compare what you've done. I would also suggest saving your user setting in the setup menu first, just in case.


Edit: I wasn't getting 24P to the projector. It was going in at 59.94. The picture looked really good anyway.


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legacyrocks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi. I am a new member and I have also been waiting 4 weeks now for a AVM 50. I will be hooking up all my video sources with HDMI. What source input should I use if connecting to a 1280x720p dlp tv. PS3 720p or 1080i? Oppo DV-98HD 480p or 720p or 1080i? Directv HDR 10-250 480i or 720p or 1080i? Hp Digital Entertainment pc DVI to HDMI 720p or 1080i? Thanks.



I'm pretty sure the PS3 doesn't actually output 720p when you choose it, but actually output's 480p, so choose 1080i.

The OPPO people seem to recommend in the 970 because it'll output 480i, which will allow the AVM50 to do all the processing, which is better than most DVD player's. You don't need a "upconverting" DVD player with this unit.

Not sure what to do about the HR10-250 or PC. I'm curious as well since I have similar components as you. Though I'm tossing the PC since the PS3 can do everything I was using the PC for.


----------



## legacyrocks

Thanks Bob and Aus. I know I did not need a upconverting dvd player. But for the money and for it to do SACD and DVD audio through HDMI to the Anthem you can't go wrong. I will experiment which looks best but I will probably set all my video sources to 1080i and have the Anthem take over from their. Oh, I got my AVM 50 today. Can't wait to get it hooked up and do some TWEAKING. Thanks.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Here's a fairly recent review of the AVM50 I hadn't seen before:

http://www.hometheatersound.com/equi...them_avm50.htm


----------



## darryl b

this is off topic and personal, but sorry.

i'm ready to get one today, i will consider the 50 and the d2. my preference is d2.

can someone give me an authorized dealer with a great prices and knowledgable?

also, is there any difference in video processing between the 50 and d2?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darryl b* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> this is off topic and personal, but sorry.
> 
> i'm ready to get one today, i will consider the 50 and the d2. my preference is d2.
> 
> can someone give me an authorized dealer with a great prices and knowledgable?
> 
> also, is there any difference in video processing between the 50 and d2?



There is a significant difference in the Audio between

the AVM50 and the D2. Also a 2nd DSP in the D2

that will likely be used for a proposed added feature,

like equalization.


No difference in video between the two models.

As for Price and Availability - see previous post


----------



## PaulT_BC

Not all Anthem Dealers may be Statement Dealers as well.

For D2 Dealers go to
http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/D...ealerHome.html 

For AVM50 Dealers go to
http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...erlocator.html 


Prices - well with the demand there probably is not a lot of discounting going on, YMMV.

Video Processing is the same between 50 and D2


As usual, drhankz is faster typing....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As usual, drhankz is faster typing....



It is all that uplink and downlink time through the Satellite

to your ship on the other side of the world [GRIN]!


----------



## Catdaddy67




> Quote:
> There is a significant difference in the Audio between
> 
> the AVM50 and the D2. Also a 2nd DSP in the D2
> 
> that will likely be used for a proposed added feature,
> 
> like equalization.
> 
> 
> No difference in video between the two models.



My local dealer has both the D2 and the AVM50 and for what is worth, they sounded the same to me. 8) They were running the D2 through a MCA 50/20. You know what they say about the chain being as strong as its weakest link.


I was practically begging for a reason, or to be showed something, to buy the D2 over the AVM50 and they just couldnt come up with anything aside from 2nd DSP and upgrade path (from the D1.)


Bob, or Nick, also posted earlier in this thread that most people wouldnt have the ears, or the equipment, to notice the difference. So either I am just one of those folks, or my RBH signature speakers arent up to task. 8)


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My local dealer has both the D2 and the AVM50 and for what is worth, they sounded the same to me. 8) They were running the D2 through a MCA 50/20. You know what they say about the chain being as strong as its weakest link.
> 
> 
> I was practically begging for a reason, or to be showed something, to buy the D2 over the AVM50 and they just couldnt come up with anything aside from 2nd DSP and upgrade path (from the D1.)
> 
> 
> Bob, or Nick, also posted earlier in this thread that most people wouldnt have the ears, or the equipment, to notice the difference. So either I am just one of those folks, or my RBH signature speakers arent up to task. 8)



Some people here have reported with a good chain

of equipment - that they can hear the difference.


In my case - I knew everything else in my chain was

top notch - so I had no intention of buying any Pre-Pro

which could be the weak link.


----------



## darryl b

is the d2/50 able to process 7 channel uncompressed audio over hdmi, such as from a ps3? will the equalizer upgrade also be available for the anthem 50?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darryl b* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> is the d2/50 able to process 7 channel uncompressed audio over hdmi, such as from a ps3?



NEGATIVE.


----------



## darryl b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> NEGATIVE.



so does this work out? what do you miss in audio that has 7 channels?( so far just games and i've heard 2 disk)


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darryl b* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> so does this work out? what do you miss in audio that has 7 channels?( so far just games and i've heard 2 disk)



It is just my opinion - but I don't think you miss

much. The D2/AMV50 turns 5.1 into 7.1 which

I'm GUESSING would be hard to hear the difference

----- If it could take 7.1 to 7.1.


As for the equalizer question - what I have heard on

this thread is you need the 2nd DSP for the equalizer.

Therefore, my conclusion is the AVM50 will not be

upgradable. But there has been nothing concrete

from Anthem on any unannounced new feature or

product.


----------



## darryl b

people on this thread are cracker-jack. thanks for the info.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My local dealer has both the D2 and the AVM50 and for what is worth, they sounded the same to me. 8) They were running the D2 through a MCA 50/20. You know what they say about the chain being as strong as its weakest link.
> 
> 
> I was practically begging for a reason, or to be showed something, to buy the D2 over the AVM50 and they just couldnt come up with anything aside from 2nd DSP and upgrade path (from the D1.)
> 
> 
> Bob, or Nick, also posted earlier in this thread that most people wouldnt have the ears, or the equipment, to notice the difference. So either I am just one of those folks, or my RBH signature speakers arent up to task. 8)



My thoughts exactlly, I'm using a ELAC reference 20000 dollar 6.1 speaker system with classe monoblocks and I could not hear the difference between the D2 and the AVM50. MY room was made using a golden ratio of 1:1.6:2.35 and a flat Rt60 of .3 seconds +/- .05 seconds from 125 to 4000 hertz.


----------



## rudolpht

I have to admit I'm a cost:benefit type of guy, with most stuff reference vs necessarily statement pieces. I go back & forth looking at the delta between the AVM-50 and upgrading, but I it's lots of money on the table for effectively the same experience to these non-golden ears. I can argue on for future features which makes me mad that $300 receivers can have scientifically advance Room Eq sampling and it doesn't take an extra DAC. [Don't get panties in an uproar, the difference between a good multi-position sampling is incremental adding a $500 microphone and I can't imaging using a DAC constantly at run-time. It DOESN'T make sense]. I can also argue that the upgrade from a D2 to a D3 is a must, but being IMPATIENT I know I'll buy the D3 or AVM-70 and not wait on the upgrade trail. So the conclusion of my babbling is I really want an AVM-50 with 7.1 PCM now, regardless of content because the content will come. So, I'll probably buy the next gen AVM and hammy down the 50 to the family room. Overkill? Yes, but toys are toys. I'm happy for D2 owners. they have the best Toy. I have the most wanted parts of the best toy in the 50, for my personal criteria. It's a free country, but the toys aren't free.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> but the toys aren't free.



I must admit when I bought my D2 - not only was

it FREE - But I had money LEFT OVER in my pocket.


I sold a Lexicon MC-12b and a DVDO VP50 and had

money left over for my Pioneer BDP-HD1 [GRIN]!


I guess that is close to FREE.


----------



## rudolpht

I could go into buying a house and selling and buying a smaller house. Not only was the new house free, but I got extra acreage... for free.





















Doc, you had the good fortune of SMART MIGRATION


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Doc, you had the good fortune of SMART MIGRATION



That's what is was - Smart Migration.


I sold the old gear while it still had VALUE.


I had to get a new Pre-Pro with HDMI and Lexicon MC-12HD

even at twice the price of the D2 would and will not support

1080p, Therefore - GOOD BYE Lexicon.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's what is was - Smart Migration.
> 
> 
> I sold the old gear while it still had VALUE.
> 
> 
> I had to get a new Pre-Pro with HDMI and Lexicon MC-12HD
> 
> even at twice the price of the D2 would and will not support
> 
> 1080p, Therefore - GOOD BYE Lexicon.



How does the sound quality compare?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How does the sound quality compare?



Obviously it is hard to compare when they are not side

by side. Doing it from Memory is subjective.


What I can say - is I bought a Denon 4806CI and kept

it only 24 hours before returning it. I thought I had

a Ghetto box after the Lexicon. I put the Lexicon back

in and BOUGHT a D2 a month later after I had to travel

3 hours to another state to hear one in the store.


I have never had a 2nd thought since I installed the D2.


----------



## darryl b

i attempted to make a purchase,d2, by phone yesterday. the dealer would not. this would require him to state the price and anthem does not *allow* qoutes over the phone.

this processor must really be good.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darryl b* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i attempted to make a purchase,d2, by phone yesterday. the dealer would not. this would require him to state the price and anthem does not *allow* qoutes over the phone.
> 
> this processor must really be good.



Absolutely correct. We all know from their website

what the LIST PRICE IS ---


I had to drive to multiple dealers before I bought.

The last one was a 3 hour drive and in another

state from where I live.


Last summer not many people knew about the D2.

When I ordered mine - I got it three days later.


Now 3-5 weeks or more is the backlog. IT IS HOT NOW!


----------



## AnthemAVM

I have heard that Anthem shops there dealers, to make sure they aren't giving information out over the phone.


----------



## logain2000

I have heard that for multi channel listening, ie movies soundtracks, there is little advantage of the D2 over the AVM 50. That is was I heard but have no experience myself.


Be interesting to hear what other have to say because most people are going use it the majority of the time for HT use.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Some people here have reported with a good chain
> 
> of equipment - that they can hear the difference.
> 
> 
> In my case - I knew everything else in my chain was
> 
> top notch - so I had no intention of buying any Pre-Pro
> 
> which could be the weak link.


----------



## yatchaks

Well, I have actually been wondering what I may be missing by owning an AVM 50 instead of the D2, and am actually considering selling the AVM 50 and buying a D2.


I was very close to doing so, but am now actually thinking about selling my MCA 50 amp instead, add the extra couple grand I would have spent on the D2 while combining this money with the sale of the MCA 50, and buy a new amp. However, the other voice in my head is saying to keep everything and instead spend 2-3k on a nice two channel amp.


Since buying my Salk HT3 speakers, analog full range two channel listening has opened a door to a world in which I've never experienced, and I like it-a lot.


Decisions, decisions. I love this hobby.


Mark


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Decisions, decisions. I love this hobby.
> 
> 
> Mark



If you already OWN the AVM50 - You might as well

stick with it and upgrade other parts of your system.


That is my two cent opinion










How about Video upgrades or are you maxed out there


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How about Video upgrades or are you maxed out there



Somewhat, but not to the point of yourself and some other here owning those gorgeous projectors. Unfortunately, my room is a little to small to own one now.


Even though I bought my display a little over a year ago, I know for a fact I could buy it tomorrow without my wife saying "but you just bought a new tv", because she would know she gets a bigger, new house. :')


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you already OWN the AVM50 - You might as well
> 
> stick with it and upgrade other parts of your system.
> 
> 
> That is my two cent opinion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about Video upgrades or are you maxed out there



I agree with drhankz. Stick with the AVM 50 and buy the amp. I view amps as "one time purchases" so I would upgrade that/those and wait until the next gen of processors come around.


As a matter of fact, I have a similiar setup to you I believe. I have an AVM50, MCA20, and MCA50. I am now considering the statement P5 and just running my two rears from the MCA20. I have also been upgrading speakers as I have just switched everything over to paradigm sig - talk about eye opener! The C5 is amazing! My .02 worth. Cheers, David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I would agree that when upgrading you'll get the most bang (or flash) for your buck by upgrading your speakers (or display) first.


There is an ENORMOUS range of audio quality in speakers on the market right now, and most people can readily hear the difference if they take the time to listen critically using music or movies they know well, and using the same electronics feeding the different speakers. As with all such things, at the highest end you will be hearing only very subtle differences -- primarily representing the audio tastes of the designers and things like how the speakers couple to the listening room. But most people aren't starting from there, and will easily hear significant improvement by upgrading modest speakers to better speakers. And a properly sized sub-woofer, or set of sub-woofers, is a must for home theater (and I think, also for music). Subwoofers "pressurize" the room, and you can't alter the physics here. More room volume (including space accessed through open doors, etc.) means you need more subwoofer to get things to work right -- you can't just crank up the volume on a small one and make it work.


Display technology is advancing rapidly. The cool thing about displays is that you don't really have to spend a ton of money to get a great one (compared to what you'd spend on a poor one). But you do have to do your homework because there's some real crap out there as well, and price is not a sure sign of quality.


I'm less inclined to chase after amps vs. pre-amps. I think you'll get more return by upgrading your pre-amp (D2 vs. AVM-50 in this case) first, but of course that's just a generalization and has to be weighed according to the particular amps you are trying to replace. In particular, if you are changing speakers you need to be sure your amps will handle those new speakers well. That means trying the speakers with your amps -- preferably in your own listening room.


For some people, room treatments can have a big effect as well, particularly for achieving bass nirvana. But not everyone has a listening/viewing area that's well suited for that.


Chasing after exotic cables, or even worse exotic power cords, is wasted money in my opinion.

--Bob


----------



## legacyrocks

Hi. How do you do a costum output resolution - 1184x666p on the anthem avm 50?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legacyrocks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi. How do you do a costum output resolution - 1184x666p on the anthem avm 50?



Video Editor - but you need to know a lot

more that just 1184x666


----------



## Nathan_R

A tiny bit off topic here, but how does one program a Harmony 880 to go to DVD2 on the AVM-50?


I'm trying to consolidate all my DVD sources into the DVD1, DVD2, and DVD3 inputs and I can't for the life of me figure out how to select DVD2 in the Harmony's setup. I tried adding the name "DVD2" to the Anthem's input modes on my Harmony, but that was a dumb approach I believe. Any ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A tiny bit off topic here, but how does one program a Harmony 880 to go to DVD2 on the AVM-50?
> 
> 
> I'm trying to consolidate all my DVD sources into the DVD1, DVD2, and DVD3 inputs and I can't for the life of me figure out how to select DVD2 in the Harmony's setup. I tried adding the name "DVD2" to the Anthem's input modes on my Harmony, but that was a dumb approach I believe. Any ideas?



You should be able to add DVD2 (for example) to the list of inputs, and then enter the 3-key sequence to get to it directly. See Appendix A in the Anthem manual for the 3-key sequence.


If that doesn't do it for you, give Harmony tech support a call. The Tier 2 support people should be able to help you add the missing direct access codes for the overlayed inputs.


As a workaround until you've got that going, you can add the 3 key sequence at the end of the stuff for entering that Activity. When it asks if you are happy with the setup for the Activity, say no. It will loop you back through the setup with the additional step at the end that allows you to enter specific additional commands.


But getting the Input list set up right is a better answer because the Harmony will keep track of which input is currently selected as you move between Activities.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legacyrocks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi. How do you do a costum output resolution - 1184x666p on the anthem avm 50?



Check out the link in the first post of this thead for the settings used to create a custom resolution for a Panasonic 768p plasma. And also those for a Sony Pearl projector. Those posts will give you an idea of the info you need to figure out to create a new, Custom resolution using Anthem's Live Video Settings Editor application (a Windows PC program). Once you've entered the Custom resolution into the D2 you can select it like any of the built-in resolutions in the Setup / Video Output menu.


Finding the right values is the tricky part. One possible method is to go searching in the Video Processor forum here for settings people might have used for your specific display with one of the many external scalers discussed there.

--Bob


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> See Appendix A in the Anthem manual for the 3-key sequence.



What is this "manual" thing of which you speak?










Seriously, thanks, Bob. I couldn't figure out if I should start reading the Harmony or Anthem manual first to resolve my idiocy. Looks like the Anthem manual is a winner-- Appendix A (of the updated online manual) was exactly what I needed.


----------



## runnerlk

I am having an issue with my sub management. I have a JL audio fathom 113. In my speaker config I have my fronts set to large and sub set to none yet I still get a signal through my sub which is connected via xlr. Am I overlooking something?


----------



## AnthemAVM

Quick question, I am going to install V1.11 on my D2 tonight from my laptop, where can I buy the DB9 cable that I need?


Michael


----------



## legacyrocks

Thanks Bob.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question, I am going to install V1.11 on my D2 tonight from my laptop, where can I buy the DB9 cable that I need?
> 
> 
> Michael



I always use my old rs232 cable and computer to do the update. RS232 to USB converter are very unreliable


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would agree that when upgrading you'll get the most bang (or flash) for your buck by upgrading your speakers (or display) first.
> 
> 
> There is an ENORMOUS range of audio quality in speakers on the market right now, and most people can readily hear the difference if they take the time to listen critically using music or movies they know well, and using the same electronics feeding the different speakers. As with all such things, at the highest end you will be hearing only very subtle differences -- primarily representing the audio tastes of the designers and things like how the speakers couple to the listening room. But most people aren't starting from there, and will easily hear significant improvement by upgrading modest speakers to better speakers. And a properly sized sub-woofer, or set of sub-woofers, is a must for home theater (and I think, also for music). Subwoofers "pressurize" the room, and you can't alter the physics here. More room volume (including space accessed through open doors, etc.) means you need more subwoofer to get things to work right -- you can't just crank up the volume on a small one and make it work.
> 
> 
> Display technology is advancing rapidly. The cool thing about displays is that you don't really have to spend a ton of money to get a great one (compared to what you'd spend on a poor one). But you do have to do your homework because there's some real crap out there as well, and price is not a sure sign of quality.
> 
> 
> I'm less inclined to chase after amps vs. pre-amps. I think you'll get more return by upgrading your pre-amp (D2 vs. AVM-50 in this case) first, but of course that's just a generalization and has to be weighed according to the particular amps you are trying to replace. In particular, if you are changing speakers you need to be sure your amps will handle those new speakers well. That means trying the speakers with your amps -- preferably in your own listening room.
> 
> 
> For some people, room treatments can have a big effect as well, particularly for achieving bass nirvana. But not everyone has a listening/viewing area that's well suited for that.
> 
> 
> Chasing after exotic cables, or even worse exotic power cords, is wasted money in my opinion.
> 
> --Bob



I just can't add anything to this as Bob wrote almost exactly what I want to convey


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question, I am going to install V1.11 on my D2 tonight from my laptop, where can I buy the DB9 cable that I need?
> 
> 
> Michael



You can get a "straight through" serial cable from any Radio Shack. Just be sure to check that pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9. Do NOT buy the very similar looking cable, sometimes labeled as a "null modem" cable, where some of the wires are swapped. Also make sure you get the correct male or female ends on each end of the cable.


I leave my cable permanently connected on the back of the D2 -- coiled neatly back there for easy access whenever I need it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am having an issue with my sub management. I have a JL audio fathom 113. In my speaker config I have my fronts set to large and sub set to none yet I still get a signal through my sub which is connected via xlr. Am I overlooking something?



There are two possible speaker configurations -- Cinema and Music -- where Music is normally just a copy of Cinema unless you go in and set it up differently. Each input source can be told to use one or the other of these. So make sure you set your no-sub/large-fronts info in the configuration you've selected to use for that input.


We also had one poster here report that he was getting sub output in a no-sub Music configuration, but that it went away either when he changed inputs and back or when he went in and looked at his speaker config again (I don't recall the specifics). This would have been back around the holidays. Do a search in this thread for "ghost sub", I believe, and you should find it. I can't recall what the final resolution of that was, but I THINK it went away when he upgraded to one of the test software versions.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

Help,


Pulled the D2 to upgrade the software, got it connected. The Computer says the D2 found, but I am getting a message cannot connect to OKI Boot Loader, any ideas?


Looks like it might be the 1.11 software, anyone want to email me the most current to update like 1.11e?


Msnowdon @ socal.rr.com


Michael


----------



## barhoram

Projector Question:


I should be getting my D2 (Upgraded D1) back in a couple of weeks. I'm in the process of upgrading my 720p projector.


I have been offered a


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Projector Question:
> 
> 
> I should be getting my D2 (Upgraded D1) back in a couple of weeks. I'm in the process of upgrading my 720p projector.
> 
> 
> I have been offered a


----------



## AnthemAVM

I went to 1.11e upgrade, everything working great except my Denon 3910. I get audio over the optical, but the HDMI doesn't seem to be working. I am sending it out a 1080i via HDMI to the D2. On the 3910 the HDMI 1080i are just blinking, anyone know what this might be?


Thanks


----------



## PooperScooper

Does 480p work? (I'm pretty sure the 3910 does not do 480i via HDMI which would be the preferred resolution to feed the D2).


larry


----------



## ddimberio

On the DVD/CD player note. I am looking for a new DVD player. I understand that 480i over HDMI is the preferred resolution to feed the D2/AVM50. I know that Oppo makes a player that does this. But I am looking for a good all around quality player (potentially used) that will make my SACD, HDCD, & SDCD's shine as well. Maybe the Oppo can do this?? I am a 50% music, 50% HT guy.


I will be probably getting an HD/Blu-ray later on - probably fall. Thoughts and suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks, ddimberio


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I am getting a D2 this week, does anyone have the universal remote codes for the mx series?


Thanks


----------



## sshearer

I also have a D2 on order (probably won't get it for closer to 2 weeks) and would also love the have the codes for then Universal Remote MX series. The codes for the Pronto are on the Anthem website and you could put those into a Pronto .ccf file and then use the Universal Browser function of the Universal Remote software, but that does look like a lot of work if someone already has the Universal Remote codes.


Scott


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On the DVD/CD player note. I am looking for a new DVD player. I understand that 480i over HDMI is the preferred resolution to feed the D2/AVM50. I know that Oppo makes a player that does this. But I am looking for a good all around quality player (potentially used) that will make my SACD, HDCD, & SDCD's shine as well. Maybe the Oppo can do this?? I am a 50% music, 50% HT guy.
> 
> 
> I will be probably getting an HD/Blu-ray later on - probably fall. Thoughts and suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks, ddimberio



I highly recommend the Pioneer 79AVi. It does the 480i video output over HDMI you are looking for, and has excellent audio quality. You should be able to find one for a decent price used or on ebay, etc.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On the DVD/CD player note. I am looking for a new DVD player. I understand that 480i over HDMI is the preferred resolution to feed the D2/AVM50. I know that Oppo makes a player that does this. But I am looking for a good all around quality player (potentially used) that will make my SACD, HDCD, & SDCD's shine as well. Maybe the Oppo can do this?? I am a 50% music, 50% HT guy.
> 
> 
> I will be probably getting an HD/Blu-ray later on - probably fall. Thoughts and suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks, ddimberio



I have the Oppo 970 and it works very well with my D2. I use the HDMI connection exclusively for both video AND audio.


The Oppo will play and decode DVD, CD, HDCD, DVD-A and SACD, and send all audio as multichannel PCM over HDMI.


I like to avoid unnecessary A-D/D-A conversions, as that is where unwanted signal changes can occur. I'd rather give the D2 a pristine signal and let it do its magic.


If you prefer to go analog first, then something like the Pioneer Elites probably have better analog audio output stages.


----------



## PooperScooper

Re: MX remotes


It took me less than 10 minutes to program (button learning) my MX-700. There's really not that many things to program to use the D2. By the time I extracted my device file and put it someplace for people to download you'd be done.










larry


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Re: MX remotes
> 
> 
> It took me less than 10 minutes to program (button learning) my MX-700. There's really not that many things to program to use the D2. By the time I extracted my device file and put it someplace for people to download you'd be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> larry




Good to know, as I will be using my MX-700 as well.










What is the status on your D2?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I highly recommend the Pioneer 79AVi. It does the 480i video output over HDMI you are looking for, and has excellent audio quality. You should be able to find one for a decent price used or on ebay, etc.



I have the Elite 79AVi and the Oppo 970, along with the D2. Well the Pioneer is no longer hooked up. The Oppo can do everything over HDMI so most if not all of the audio benefits of the Pioneer's excellent analog section is negated. If you don't have any SACDs this won't be a factor as the 79AVi can do DVD-A over HDMI, but then again it costs a heck of a lot more then the Oppo. I also hate the fact that there is no easy way to change the resolution of the Pioneer between 480i for external video scaler use and 1080i/720p for high resolution audio over HDMI. (DVD-A and SACD HDMI audio get downrezz'ed at 480i)


----------



## barhoram

how easy is it to change from 480i to 720/1080 on the oppo (and back)? Can it be done with a discrete command from the remote?


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good to know, as I will be using my MX-700 as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is the status on your D2?



Waiting for a new one to be shipped.


larry


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> how easy is it to change from 480i to 720/1080 on the oppo (and back)? Can it be done with a discrete command from the remote?



Pushing one button. But using anything other than 480i into the D2 doesn't make any sense unless you are just testing things. Check over in the DVD player forum in the 970HD thread for discrete codes (if they are available).


larry


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Re: MX remotes
> 
> 
> It took me less than 10 minutes to program (button learning) my MX-700. There's really not that many things to program to use the D2. By the time I extracted my device file and put it someplace for people to download you'd be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> larry




Sorry I asked


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Pushing one button. But using anything other than 480i into the D2 doesn't make any sense unless you are just testing things. Check over in the DVD player forum in the 970HD thread for discrete codes (if they are available).
> 
> 
> larry



You have to switch to 1080i/720p to listen to DVD-A and SACD over HDMI. It is really easy on the Oppo compared to the Pioneer to switch resolutions. There is a discrete button for the Oppo, the first press brings up the current resolution and each subsequent press cycles to the next resolution. The Pioneer resolution is buried deep in the menus. Both players require you to stop the disc, you can't change on the fly.


----------



## AnthemAVM

Help!


When I upgrade to 1.11e, my Denon 3910 via HDMI stopped working with the Anthem, any ideas what I should do?


Michael


----------



## obie_fl

I downloaded my D2 MX file from some place but it has been a while, either remote central or the Anthem web page I think. I'm not at home or I would check. Maybe I just used the D1 file now that I think about it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Help!
> 
> 
> When I upgrade to 1.11e, my Denon 3910 via HDMI stopped working with the Anthem, any ideas what I should do?
> 
> 
> Michael



The 3910 should be rock solid with the Anthem. I don't recall any complaints about Denon HDMI here.


Check your HDMI plugs and sockets for any sign of pin damage.


Remember that all HDMI input and output connections have to be inactive when you install the Anthem software. Since some devices keep their HDMI live even when they are in "stand by/off" mode, it is best to actually disconnect them from wall power prior to the Anthem install. If you are not sure about how things were set when you did the V1.11e install, it is OK to re-install it on top of itself.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 3910 should be rock solid with the Anthem. I don't recall any complaints about Denon HDMI here.
> 
> 
> Check your HDMI plugs and sockets for any sign of pin damage.
> 
> 
> Remember that all HDMI input and output connections have to be inactive when you install the Anthem software. Since some devices keep their HDMI live even when they are in "stand by/off" mode, it is best to actually disconnect them from wall power prior to the Anthem install. If you are not sure about how things were set when you did the V1.11e install, it is OK to re-install it on top of itself.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob,


I took the D2 out of the rack, so nothing was plugged in. I will double check the connections, and make sure something didn't get damaged on a re-install.


Michael


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> I took the D2 out of the rack, so nothing was plugged in. I will double check the connections, and make sure something didn't get damaged on a re-install.
> 
> 
> Michael



Also double check your Setup / Source Select settings after the V1.11e install just in case the Scaler Input setting got changed to something other than the HDMI socket you were expecting.

--Bob


----------



## lalarsons

Regarding those of you who have completed a D1 upgrade to D1-HD: on an out of warranty D1 unit going in, what factory warranty applies once the upgrade is completed? Thanks.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You have to switch to 1080i/720p to listen to DVD-A and SACD over HDMI. It is really easy on the Oppo compared to the Pioneer to switch resolutions. There is a discrete button for the Oppo, the first press brings up the current resolution and each subsequent press cycles to the next resolution. The Pioneer resolution is buried deep in the menus. Both players require you to stop the disc, you can't change on the fly.



Forgot about that. My goof. I use mine for video only. If I did use it for audio I'd have to make a macro or I'd forget every time to switch.










larry


----------



## cargen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Regarding those of you who have completed a D1 upgrade to D1-HD: on an out of warranty D1 unit going in, what factory warranty applies once the upgrade is completed? Thanks.




Good question. I received my D1-HD back from upgrade in mid-February. The box had no paperwork regarding warranty of the upgrade and I never asked the question. My D1 purchased in 2004 came standard with a 5-year warranty, but a new D2 comes standard with only 2 years. Either way, I now figure my D1-HD has a warranty to about Feb. 2009.


I never had any problems with my D1 and I'm not having any problems with my D1-HD. My experience with solid state electronics is that usually any problems emerge in the first 30-90 day "burn-in" or practically never afterwards.


Chris


----------



## barhoram

They told me that the "video" part of the D1-HD would have a 1 year warranty. Mine is currently in the process of being upgraded. Can't wait to get it back.


----------



## legacyrocks

Hi. Does the Anthem remote have a blacklight when you press a button? If it does mine is not working.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legacyrocks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi. Does the Anthem remote have a blacklight when you press a button? If it does mine is not working.



It does, and I can't recall any setting you might have done accidentally to turn that off. So your remote is probably not working. The remote has the shortest warranty period, so don't delay getting it replaced.

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I downloaded my D2 MX file from some place but it has been a while, either remote central or the Anthem web page I think. I'm not at home or I would check. Maybe I just used the D1 file now that I think about it.



If you find it i would like to have it. I have the new URC complete control suite and

it has only the D1


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are two possible speaker configurations -- Cinema and Music -- where Music is normally just a copy of Cinema unless you go in and set it up differently. Each input source can be told to use one or the other of these. So make sure you set your no-sub/large-fronts info in the configuration you've selected to use for that input.
> 
> 
> We also had one poster here report that he was getting sub output in a no-sub Music configuration, but that it went away either when he changed inputs and back or when he went in and looked at his speaker config again (I don't recall the specifics). This would have been back around the holidays. Do a search in this thread for "ghost sub", I believe, and you should find it. I can't recall what the final resolution of that was, but I THINK it went away when he upgraded to one of the test software versions.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,


I have the music config set to large/no sub and still get a signal. Didn't try switching inputs. Has Anthem stabilized the software yet, I tried an upgrade back around the end of december and it was a disaster. The version available for download seems to be the same release I tried in Dec.


----------



## obie_fl

If I'm not mistaken the D1 and D2 remotes are the same so a D1 MX file is all you need.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> I have the music config set to large/no sub and still get a signal. Didn't try switching inputs. Has Anthem stabilized the software yet, I tried an upgrade back around the end of december and it was a disaster. The version available for download seems to be the same release I tried in Dec.



They are still trying test software versions -- up to V1.11h at latest report. I don't know why they haven't made a public release yet.


From reports here V1.11e seems to be pretty good. Later versions V1.11f, V1.11g, and V1.11h have had significant problems reported here, so I don't think they are sending those out at the moment unless you really need a fix specific to one of them. The install problems you refer to were apparently resolved around V1.11c, so you should be OK with any version later than that.


Did you find the set of posts in this thread I referred you to? I can't recall how that user's "ghost sub" problem got resolved.

--Bob


----------



## JeffDL

I have a question for those of you with a dedicated theater with a D2. Currently I am using my D2 with a 61" 1080p JVC LCoS TV, the D2 is used to process everything, SD cable, HD cable, HD-DVD, Blu-ray, etc and I absolutely LOVE it. I am in the process of building a dedicated HT with front projector, HT seating wall treatments the whole 9 yards. Now I don't want to have to loose my D2 from my primary watching room and only use it in my dedicated HT. So.............do I buy another one? What do you guys do that have dedicated HT's? Are you using an old processor in your "regular" TV watching room? This really just hit me I will probably have 2 complete home theaters, one for watching normal TV, and one just for movies?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you using an old processor in your "regular" TV watching room? This really just hit me I will probably have 2 complete home theaters, one for watching normal TV, and one just for movies?



That is what I do.


I have three theaters, small, medium and large.


The large one is the high-end dedicated theater.

I have the D2 there because the Video Quality

with a 1080p PJ on a 13 ft. screen is more important

and the Audio Quality driving 10 channels of high

end amps and speakers is also more important.


In the Small and Medium Theaters - I use a

pair of Pioneer elite 82TSXi an 84TSXi receivers,

respectively.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a question for those of you with a dedicated theater with a D2. Currently I am using my D2 with a 61" 1080p JVC LCoS TV, the D2 is used to process everything, SD cable, HD cable, HD-DVD, Blu-ray, etc and I absolutely LOVE it. I am in the process of building a dedicated HT with front projector, HT seating wall treatments the whole 9 yards. Now I don't want to have to loose my D2 from my primary watching room and only use it in my dedicated HT. So.............do I buy another one? What do you guys do that have dedicated HT's? Are you using an old processor in your "regular" TV watching room? This really just hit me I will probably have 2 complete home theaters, one for watching normal TV, and one just for movies?



Jeff,


Have you considered using the Zone 2 capabilities from the D2 for the less critical room? If you are willing to do some in-wall/ceiling wiring, and willing to deploy an RF-based remote solution like Universal's MX series, there is no reason you couldn't use a centralized Home Theater solution, placing all equipment in one area, and running in-wall/in-ceiling speaker cable and RGB/Component video cabling to the second room (or third for that matter). Complete control for the entire solution, regardless of Zone, can be had from anymore via the RF-based remotes out there. I am using the MX-950, but many others would work.


Now, some obvious caveats - for Zones 2 and 3, the audio would be limited to 2-channel stereo, no surround sound, no multichannel anything. Also, the video for Zones 2 and 3 cannot be HDMI, but can be Component (recommended) or S-Video or Composite. Also, another caveat is that in order to have truly independent source/zone switching via the centralized D2, you must run both digital and analog audio from every source component to the D2, and also multiple video cables for the video components, depending on what cabling you're using for Zone2 and Zone3 video outs. This allows you to watch for instance a DVD in the Main Zone, while someone watches cable TV in the other room, at the same time.


The multizone D2 solution has its limitations for sure, but as someone controlling 3 zones via a single D2, I can tell you I am MORE than happy with it, and MORE than getting my money out of my relatively small investments in in-wall wiring, etc. I was able to live very happily with 1 complete set of source components, instead of having 2 or 3 sets of components, preamps, controllers, etc. I have 2 speakers and a TV in the extra zones, that is it. Everything else is centralized in the Main, critical theater room.


Just a thought for you - you have to decide in the end how critical the listening/viewing is in the various zones, especially how important multichannel audio is for the other room(s).


Hope this helps,

Brian


----------



## legacyrocks

Thanks Bob. I will get right on it. First, I had no power - bad power cord and now bad remote. But, most important my AVM - 50's HDMI switching is working without a hitch. Does anyone know how to get a computer screen resolution 1280x720p in underscan so you can view the screen with all the icons and buttons showing? Thanks.


----------



## JeffDL

Thanks for the advice Brian. That does help and open up some ideas. As I would like to fill my house with more Anthem gear that seems like a much better solution. The 2 channel audio in zone 2 should work. Really only watching HD shows like Hero's and CSI, 2 channel with some quality speakers would probably be more than sufficient. I have probably 3-4 weeks before everything is done so I can do some testing with 2 channel audio and see how it goes.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legacyrocks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I will get right on it. First, I had no power - bad power cord and now bad remote. But, most important my AVM - 50's HDMI switching is working without a hitch. Does anyone know how to get a computer screen resolution 1280x720p in underscan so you can view the screen with all the icons and buttons showing? Thanks.



If you mean you are losing them under the edges of your display screen, then the usual thing to do is to look to your display for controls that will keep it from cropping pixels. Sometimes this is called a 1:1 setting. Sometimes it is done with screen sizing controls.


As for doing something in the Anthem: If your Anthem video output resolution is BIGGER than 1280x720p, then you can turn off Scaling in the Video Source Adjust / Scale Out menu. This will cause your 1280x720p input signal to be displayed in the middle of the screen surrounded by unused space -- i.e., it won't be scaled up to your video output resolution.


Otherwise I don't think there are any good options to correct for overscan built into your display. For example, you can't open the Anthem's Crop Input settings bigger than the incoming video resolution.


Oh, another thing. Be sure you have Video Source Adjust / Crop Input / Edges Off set in the Anthem. The Edges ON setting crops pixels all the way around the incoming image -- used to get rid of noisy edges in SDTV broadcasts for example. You definitely don't want that turned on when you are doing computer imagery.

--Bob


----------



## legacyrocks

Thanks Bob. I will give it a try tomorrow.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice Brian. That does help and open up some ideas. As I would like to fill my house with more Anthem gear that seems like a much better solution. The 2 channel audio in zone 2 should work. Really only watching HD shows like Hero's and CSI, 2 channel with some quality speakers would probably be more than sufficient. I have probably 3-4 weeks before everything is done so I can do some testing with 2 channel audio and see how it goes.



Good deal...just keep in mind that you'll need amplification for the other zones, just as you do for Main Zone. So, in my case, I use an Anthem A5 for the Main Zone amplification, and an Anthem A2 for Zone 2, and another for Zone 3. I then have some B&W in-wall speakers in Zones 2 and 3, which have a high WAF measurement  Lastly, a couple on-wall LCD flatscreens for those zones, and the WAF factor is off the charts 


Hey, I gotta give her something after what I did to the best room in the house 


Let me know if you need any more detail on things.


-Brian


----------



## barhoram

Can Zone 2 and Zone 3 both be component outputs out of the D2? I'd like to drive 2 additional HD displays around the house. If so, can you acutally 3 get seperate HD outputs at one time? (HDMI and 2 component)?


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can Zone 2 and Zone 3 both be component outputs out of the D2? I'd like to drive 2 additional HD displays around the house. If so, can you acutally 3 get seperate HD outputs at one time? (HDMI and 2 component)?



So, there are indeed 2 sets of Component Outs on the D2. The problem is that 1 of them HAS to be for Main Zone (whether you use it or not) and the other is EITHER 1) a Copy of Processed Main or 2)Unprocessed Main or 3) truly independent Zone 2 unprocessed. For any kind of independence of viewing in Zone 2, you would want to take the setting that dictates the 3rd option.


BUT...you could always use Svideo or Composite video for Zone 3. Not ideal, and no good for passing HD resolutions of course, but usable.


Though in my case the current functionality is fine, I have always noted that it *should* be nothing more than a software change for Anthem to make both of the Component outputs available to pass the incoming signal Unprocessed and independent, whatever it may be. For instance, just like I get 1080i directly fed to Zone 2 via Component from for instance my Series 3 Tivo's HD channels, so should I be able to get 1080i via the second set of Component outs if somehow it was assignable to Zone 3. So, I guess I'd like to see someone push Anthem a bit on this, and see if they can consider this feature for a future release. This is one of those things that simply may not have occurred to them to make configurable for users. I'd be curious if it is possible given the current hardware config.


Until then, I'm afraid you are limited to SVideo or Composite for Zone 3 (as well as Record Zone).


-Brian


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The instructions regarding how and when to use Frame Lock in the Video Source Adjust menu portion of the Anthem V1.1x manual really say it as best as it can be said.
> 
> 
> If your display doesn't accept /24Hz video input (i.e., film rate input) and offer the option of displaying it at a refresh rate which is a multiple of /24Hz, then leave Frame Lock in it's factory default setting of OFF. Frame Lock offers nothing for that very common type of display. This would include all traditional TVs and MOST of the HDTVs out there.
> 
> 
> If you have one of the few displays out there which can accept film rate video input and produce judder free imagery by displaying it at a film rate refresh rate then you may want to experiment with Frame Lock = Auto.
> 
> 
> To do this, FIRST set your default video output frame rate to /24Hz (or /48Hz using the custom options in Live Video Settings Editor). For most such displays today, this will be 1080p/24Hz or 1080p/48Hz. Then use the Frame Lock = Auto setting to automatically change that output frame rate back to /60Hz when viewing video based content (TV shows or DVDs of TV shows, and also DVDs of some computer generated animated movies that have been re-mastered "direct to DVD"). With Frame Lock = Auto, the Anthem senses the incoming frame rate and tracks it for output.
> 
> 
> With Frame Lock = Auto, a source that sends /24Hz video, such as a 1080p/24Hz HD-DVD or Blue Ray player, will have that video go through the Anthem and remain at /24Hz.
> 
> 
> So normal TV, and /24Hz output devices all work automatically for you.
> 
> 
> However, when watching a film-stock based movie on TV or standard DVD, change to Frame Lock = OFF! This turns off the automatic tracking of the input frame rate, and since you have set your default output frame rate to /24Hz the Anthem will now convert the 30Hz input from the TV channel or DVD to 24Hz output by detecting and removing the replicated fields that are already inserted into that film-based content to raise it up to the 30Hz TV rate needed by normal TVs.
> 
> 
> For TV inputs then, you would likely start with Frame Lock = Auto and temporarily change it to OFF when watching a movie. For standard DVD inputs you would likely start with Frame Lock = OFF and temporarily change it to AUTO when watching a DVD of a TV show. For a suitable HD-DVD or Blue Ray player you would likely start with Frame Lock = Auto and temporarily change it to OFF when watching a STANDARD DVD which happens to also be of a TV show -- with the player's output set to 480i for standard DVD playback.
> 
> 
> There's a shortcut to alter the Frame Lock setting available under the Mode key on the Anthem remote.
> 
> 
> Again, MOST TVs and displays out there right now can not take advantage of the Anthem's Frame Lock feature, so just leave it OFF.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, you posted this on 1-23-07. I have a follow up question (I believe I know the answer but want to confirm): does the Frame Lock setting apply globally to all four HDMI inputs, or can you specify Frame Lock setting for each input separately?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> "Standard" for HDMI to HDMI connections is YCbCr 4:4:4.
> 
> 
> "Optional" and *POSSIBLY* superior for HDMI to HDMI is YCbCr 4:2:2. This can only be "better" if the devices at both ends will support greater than 8 bit samples (as the Anthem does).
> 
> 
> YCbCr 4:2:2 comes in 3 different flavors -- 8 bits per sample, 10 bits per sample, or 12 bits per sample. This is typically selected automatically by the devices at either end of the cable -- they use the highest sample size they both support. YCbCr 4:4:4 always uses 8 bits per sample (at least until HDMI V1.3 connections arrive). YCbCr 4:2:2 supports the higher sample size because it only sends one color sample for each two luminance samples across each line.



Anyone who is using the RS1/HD1 know whether it will support more than 8 bit samples?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, you posted this on 1-23-07. I have a follow up question (I believe I know the answer but want to confirm): does the Frame Lock setting apply globally to all four HDMI inputs, or can you specify Frame Lock setting for each input separately?



Frame Lock is a separate, per input setting, just like everything else in the Video Source Adjust menu.


So you could, for example, set up one overlayed input with Frame Lock = Auto and another with Frame Lock = OFF both using the same source device.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Frame Lock is a separate, per input setting, just like everything else in the Video Source Adjust menu.
> 
> 
> So you could, for example, set up one overlayed input with Frame Lock = Auto and another with Frame Lock = OFF both using the same source device.
> 
> --Bob



Cool!










Thanks Bob.


----------



## aus

Don't forget to mention he has to use COMPONENT input to the D2/AMV50 in order to do this. HDMI input will NOT work this way.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone who is using the RS1/HD1 know whether it will support more than 8 bit samples?



Doesn't the D2 tell you what it is outputting? I don't remember if it says "size" and I can't go down and look...










larry


----------



## ankita

Newbie problem perhaps. I have a JVC RS1 projector ( 1080p ), anthem avm 50 . would I be better off buying a toshiba A2 which outputs 1080i and let avm 50 upscale it to 1080p or buy a toshiba XA2 ( costs $200 more ) but outputs 1080p. any personal experiences ?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Newbie problem perhaps. I have a JVC RS1 projector ( 1080p ), anthem avm 50 . would I be better off buying a toshiba A2 which outputs 1080i and let avm 50 upscale it to 1080p or buy a toshiba XA2 ( costs $200 more ) but outputs 1080p. any personal experiences ?



I have owned a Toshiba - HD DVD since DAY ONE.


Me recommendation is Pioneer Blu-Ray BDP-HD1

because it outputs 1080p/24 and Blu-Ray titles

are running all over HD DVD. Since I got my Blu-Ray

in December - I have only bought one HD DVD.


I now have 30 Blu-Ray titles and 20 HD DVD titles.

All of the HD DVD were bought in the first 6 months

of HD DVD releases. The 30 Blu-Ray titles have been

bought in just 4 months.


I am format NEUTRAL - but Blu-Ray is rolling over

HD DVD when it comes to content availability.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> buy a toshiba XA2 ( costs $200 more ) but outputs 1080p. any personal experiences ?



ALSO the XA2 does not do 1080p/24 which is the

right way to do 1080p.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Doesn't the D2 tell you what it is outputting? I don't remember if it says "size" and I can't go down and look...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> larry



I don't know, since I still don't have mine!


I'm just trying to find out what the best setting will be with the JVC RS1: YCbCr 4:4:4 or 4:2:2. I guess I can test it myself, but figured I would ask while I wait........


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't forget to mention he has to use COMPONENT input to the D2/AMV50 in order to do this. HDMI input will NOT work this way.



Was this comment regarding the Frame Lock setting?


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Newbie problem perhaps. I have a JVC RS1 projector ( 1080p ), anthem avm 50 . would I be better off buying a toshiba A2 which outputs 1080i and let avm 50 upscale it to 1080p or buy a toshiba XA2 ( costs $200 more ) but outputs 1080p. any personal experiences ?



I'd be interested in an answer to this too from someone with experience with the A2 and XA2 with the Anthem 50 or D2.


I know the good doc suggests a Blu-Ray player but that's not the answer we're looking for (I'll get a PS3 for Blu-Ray too).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd be interested in an answer to this too from someone with experience with the A2 and XA2 with the Anthem 50 or D2.
> 
> 
> I know the good doc suggests a Blu-Ray player but that's not the answer we're looking for (I'll get a PS3 for Blu-Ray too).



The A1 @ 1080i to the D2 - then 1080p/60 looks

really good.


All I know is from reading this thread and the Toshiba

threads - there are fewer problems with the Gen 1

Toshiba's than the Gen 2. Yes the A1 is as slow as

molasses.


The A2 does not do 1080p - period.


The X2 converts from 1080p/24 to 1080i and

then to 1080p/60. Who needs that?


So - which pill do you want to swallow?


I have a PS3 and that is a GAME







not a

Blu-Ray player.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why did you return the RS1??



I was sadly only testing a unit. I also compared the RS1 directly with a Sharp20000. My preference was for the RS1. I will procure a 1080p in a few months; I am still waiting to see what Sony with come up with it in September-October.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Newbie problem perhaps. I have a JVC RS1 projector ( 1080p ), anthem avm 50 . would I be better off buying a toshiba A2 which outputs 1080i and let avm 50 upscale it to 1080p or buy a toshiba XA2 ( costs $200 more ) but outputs 1080p. any personal experiences ?




I bouth the XA2 in the hope that Toshiba will release a firmware that will support 24fps.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bouth the XA2 in the hope that Toshiba will release a firmware that will support 24fps.



I KNOW THAT STORY - I darn near did

the same thing. I was going to upgrade

from the A1 to the XA2. I'm happy I

DID NOT - now


----------



## Catdaddy67

I seem to be having an issue doing vertical stretch on my PS3. Is anyone else?


I can do it with HD-DVD, but first time I tried with my PS3 and it actually literally CROPPED the image. I switched over to HD-D and stretch worked again.


Anyone try to do vertical stretch with a PS3, successfully?


----------



## Catdaddy67

I probably have a 60/40 split, blu-ray. I had been mostly HD-DVD then mostly blu-ray , about the time of the fry's buy one get one free deal, but have been buying lots of HD-DVDs again, thankfully. Matrix in a few weeks. 8)


----------



## Fishysan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I seem to be having an issue doing vertical stretch on my PS3. Is anyone else?
> 
> 
> I can do it with HD-DVD, but first time I tried with my PS3 and it actually literally CROPPED the image. I switched over to HD-D and stretch worked again.
> 
> 
> Anyone try to do vertical stretch with a PS3, successfully?



Eeek.. I hope it's a fluke, as I'll be doing precisely that. Doesn't the D2 effectively crop then scale in terms of config? You crop the input, and then because you tell it to output XxY it scales the cropped input to match that output res?


Cheers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I seem to be having an issue doing vertical stretch on my PS3. Is anyone else?
> 
> 
> I can do it with HD-DVD, but first time I tried with my PS3 and it actually literally CROPPED the image. I switched over to HD-D and stretch worked again.
> 
> 
> Anyone try to do vertical stretch with a PS3, successfully?



What settings did you try and what did you see? Have you told the PS3 to do any letter/pillar box stuff itself?


Double check that the Anthem's Video Source Adjust / Scale Out setting for your PS3 input hasn't mysteriously changed on you from the Anamorphic you likely want to use. There is a bug in the current software that can cause the Scale Out setting to change unexpectedly on power up for the input that happens to be selected at power up. If this is the problem, just change it back. This only happens at power up, and only for one input.

--Bob


----------



## Catdaddy67

Thanks Bob. That is what happenned. It changed that setting to no scaling, instead of anamorphic. Weird thing is it was not the input that I had been using. Oh well, it works now.


Ill have to check that going forward. Thanks again. Sorry for false alarm. 8)


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Only 99 more posts to go until we reach 6000 posts!










Only 2 1/2 more pages until we hit 200!










Edit: make that 98 more posts.....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. That is what happenned. It changed that setting to no scaling, instead of anamorphic.



Could it be you have the multiple key class enabled?


I'm not sure what Anthem calls it - But I hate it and

it is turned off in my system.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Only 99 more posts to go until we reach 6000 posts!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only 2 1/2 more pages until we hit 200!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: make that 98 more posts.....



We have by far the most posts of any thread in this forum (of non-archived threads) and we just recently moved up from 10th to 9th most viewed thread in this forum.


For people heavily into AV and home theater we sure spend a lot of time in front of the computers instead!

--Bob (who uses a laptop so as to be able to easily do both at once) P.


----------



## Catdaddy67

I go in spurts. Until I get my 2.35 setup squared away in my new home/media room, I have to live vicariously through others. 8) Then Ill be gone for a while, til something new comes up. 8)



> Quote:
> Could it be you have the multiple key class enabled?
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what Anthem calls it - But I hate it and
> 
> it is turned off in my system.



drhankz, how do I do that?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I go in spurts. Until I get my 2.35 setup squared away in my new home/media room, I have to live vicariously through others. 8) Then Ill be gone for a while, til something new comes up. 8)



Yep. I go through spurts too. I probably have 1500 to 2000 posts since around Sept. or October when I started shopping for a new projector. And of course it hasn't stopped there, which is why I am posting in this thread!











> Quote:
> We have by far the most posts of any thread in this forum (of non-archived threads) and we just recently moved up from 10th to 9th most viewed thread in this forum.



I think this thread might make the top 25 or 30 of the entire AVS Forum in terms of total posts. Although I was quite surprised at how many thousands of posts are contained in the Local HDTV Info and Reception section. There are 10 separate threads in that section alone that exceed 6000 posts each!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz, how do I do that?



I don't remember - but it is in the Manual the

goes with FW 1.11.


It is in the setup menu for each device DVD, etc.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a PS3 and that is a GAME
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not a
> 
> Blu-Ray player.



Wow, you have a PS3 and a separate bluray player? They must pay doctors in the south better than up here because I wouldn't waste my money on a separate one when the PS3 supposedly does a good job, plays sacds, and games to boot!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow, you have a PS3 and a separate bluray player? They must pay doctors in the south better than up here because I wouldn't waste my money on a separate one when the PS3 supposedly does a good job, plays sacds, and games to boot!



It seems your opinion is meliorated and not

very qualitative when you have no capability

or experience comparing the two - other

than on paper.


----------



## cpcat

I've had an AVM 50 for a few days now. I have V1.11 software. I'm running into a problem where if I use the cropping function or the edge-on function the display develops artifacts which sort of look like combing. Basically, there are multiple horizontal lines in the image. Once this happens, it is present on all digital video inputs and the only way it can be corrected is by powering off/on the AVM 50.


The setup menu exhibits the same artifact but, interestingly, the video adjustment menu does not.


This also seems to happen when engaging frame lock(even without cropping/edge on).


It happens with both 1080p60 and 1080i output.


Has this been reported here before or do I have a defective unit?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We have by far the most posts of any thread in this forum (of non-archived threads) and we just recently moved up from 10th to 9th most viewed thread in this forum.



Bob.


If you remember, the AVS administrators did put 2 threads together at the beginning, the D2 and AVM50 tweak guides that were going separately, so we lost around 20-30000 views when they did it, since the counter went back to zero after putting those 2 threads together.


I remember well since I was the one that did ask Alan Gouger to put those 2 threads together.


----------



## drsimnal

Came home yesterday to find my D2 sitting on my front porch. Had just talked to my dealer Monday and asked him to ship it too me (I have no time to drive back to Illinois to pick it up); I can't believe it got here so fast! I opened the box and started browsing the manual, but won't be able to hook it up until Friday. Unfortunately, I have to work all weekend and then my baby sister is graduating from college (knock on wood) next weekend. Still waiting for the RS-1, but I can't wait to get everything hooked up!!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've had an AVM 50 for a few days now. I have V1.11 software. I'm running into a problem where if I use the cropping function or the edge-on function the display develops artifacts which sort of look like combing. Basically, there are multiple horizontal lines in the image. Once this happens, it is present on all digital video inputs and the only way it can be corrected is by powering off/on the AVM 50.
> 
> 
> The setup menu exhibits the same artifact but, interestingly, the video adjustment menu does not.
> 
> 
> This also seems to happen when engaging frame lock(even without cropping/edge on).
> 
> 
> It happens with both 1080p60 and 1080i output.
> 
> 
> Has this been reported here before or do I have a defective unit?



I suspect you have an unusual variation of the 1080i/1080p bug, although nobody has actually associated that with using cropping before.


One thing to check is that you are NOT using the Video Source Adjust / Scale Out / Zoom setting. The Zoom setting is only really for setup situations. It will screw up imagery in various ways if you use it for normal viewing. Also be aware of the bug I mentioned above where sometimes, on power up, the Anthem will unexpectedly change the Scale Out setting for the one input -- always the input selected at power up in my experience. So you may have Zoom set even though you didn't do it yourself.


If checking for misuse of Zoom doesn't do it for you, then I think you should contact Anthem tech support and tell them what's going on. Use of the cropping options should result in completely clean, pristine quality imagery. My guess is they'll ask you to try the V1.11e software to eliminate the possibility of the 1080i/1080p bug. But if that doesn't fix it, you may need to get the unit replaced.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drsimnal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Came home yesterday to find my D2 sitting on my front porch. Had just talked to my dealer Monday and asked him to ship it too me (I have no time to drive back to Illinois to pick it up); I can't believe it got here so fast! I opened the box and started browsing the manual, but won't be able to hook it up until Friday. Unfortunately, I have to work all weekend and then my baby sister is graduating from college (knock on wood) next weekend. Still waiting for the RS-1, but I can't wait to get everything hooked up!!!!!



Here's one of these







for you to keep handy for this weekend!

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drsimnal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Came home yesterday to find my D2 sitting on my front porch. Had just talked to my dealer Monday and asked him to ship it too me (I have no time to drive back to Illinois to pick it up); I can't believe it got here so fast! I opened the box and started browsing the manual, but won't be able to hook it up until Friday. Unfortunately, I have to work all weekend and then my baby sister is graduating from college (knock on wood) next weekend. Still waiting for the RS-1, but I can't wait to get everything hooked up!!!!!



Congrats!


I hope to (finally) have mine this week, but I won't be holding my breath.


Boy, it sure is getting crowded with "dr's" in here!


----------



## ddimberio

I really appreciate the responses on my DVD player question. Thanks everyone. Does anyone else have any suggestions for a good all purpose DVD player to take full advantage of the Anthem AVM50 and at the same time have good Audio quality for all forms of CD/DVD-Audio? Thanks again.


----------



## sshearer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drsimnal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Came home yesterday to find my D2 sitting on my front porch. Had just talked to my dealer Monday and asked him to ship it too me (I have no time to drive back to Illinois to pick it up); I can't believe it got here so fast! I opened the box and started browsing the manual, but won't be able to hook it up until Friday. Unfortunately, I have to work all weekend and then my baby sister is graduating from college (knock on wood) next weekend. Still waiting for the RS-1, but I can't wait to get everything hooked up!!!!!




That is great news. I just heard from my dealer that he received my D2 today, checked it out and will be shipping it to me tomorrow. Since I am only about 2 hours away from his location, I may even receive it on Friday! Guess what I will be doing this weekend.


Scott


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I suspect you have an unusual variation of the 1080i/1080p bug, although nobody has actually associated that with using cropping before.
> 
> 
> If checking for misuse of Zoom doesn't do it for you, then I think you should contact Anthem tech support and tell them what's going on. Use of the cropping options should result in completely clean, pristine quality imagery. My guess is they'll ask you to try the V1.11e software to eliminate the possibility of the 1080i/1080p bug. But if that doesn't fix it, you may need to get the unit replaced.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. I think you may be right. 720p output doesn't seem to have the problem.


I checked and zoom wasn't on.


How do you know what subversion of V1.11 is on the unit? My status display says simply "1.11" and there's no indication of a subversion.


I'll email techsupport tonight.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. I think you may be right. 720p output doesn't seem to have the problem.
> 
> 
> I checked and zoom wasn't on.
> 
> 
> How do you know what subversion of V1.11 is on the unit? My status display says simply "1.11" and there's no indication of a subversion.
> 
> 
> I'll email techsupport tonight.



If it says 1.11, you are on the only publicly available general release of 1.11 - the officially supported release in other words, and the one available on Anthem's website. [If you were on, say, 1.11e, it would say '1.11e' on the OSD and front panel]


Any release with a letter (eg 1.11h, etc.) is a Beta version of code, not meant for general distribution. When they fully like what they have, they will release it as, for instance, 1.12, to the general public and on the website, and ultimately, as the shipping version.


HTH,

Brian


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I'm just going to give myself a few of these babies:


----------



## FilmMixer

^^^Rob.. congrats... you will not be disappointed..


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^Rob.. congrats... you will not be disappointed..



Thanks Marc, I have a feeling you will be right.


I would like to thank AnthemAVM (Michael) for hooking me up with a good local dealer.


----------



## AnthemAVM

Rob,


Glad Kevin was able to hook you up. Did he play his Avantgarde for you?


Michael


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 
> Glad Kevin was able to hook you up. Did he play his Avantgarde for you?
> 
> 
> Michael



Yes, and his whole setup was beyond amazing! What a cool guy. He is really into his tubes! I couldn't help but ask him how the D2 compared to his tube based systems, and he said "well, they are different systems, designed to do different things, but I can tell you this: the Anthem is the most musical non tube based pre/pro you can buy"!


Based on the type of equipment he has in his shop, I can tell you that he knows what he is talking about!










If anyone is looking for a AVM50 or D2 in SoCal, send me or Michael a PM.


----------



## Roomraider

This post is just a little reminder to all, just how good Anthem really is. 5 months after this system was purchased and fully assembled, my wife of 20 years packed up her things and left, citing irreconcilable differences.

Now my system is truly complete! When I turn it on, it's almost like I never met her. This is a true testimonial from a hardcore Anthem enthusiast.


Display "SONY KDS-R60 XBR-1" 1920x1080/1080i native res. x HDMI in.

Controller "ANTHEM AVM-50 PrePro" "Video output"= Preferred/HDMI,

Resolution/auto, Color Space/HDTV

VXP Gennum set to "Crop"= HDMI Auto Detect,

"Scale out"= Letter/Pillar Box, "Output"= Gamma corr/off,

Frame lock/off

DVD "OPPO DV-970HD DVD Player" Man. set to 480i raw

SAT "DIRECTV H-20 set to roaming native 480i/480p/720p/1080i

PC " MSI K8N NEO 4 SLI/AMD FX55 W/2 BFG 7800 GTX HD Vid CARDS

POWER 1) Sunfire TGA-7400 7channel power amp

CENTER 1) PARADIGM CC-690

MAIN L/R 2) PARADIGM Studio 100 v.4

Subs L/R 2) PARADIGM MONITOR 90 P's Powered

SURR L/R 2) PARADIGM SA-35 v.2 IN WALLS

REAR L/R 2) PARADIGM SA-35 v.2 IN WALLS


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This post is just a little reminder to all, just how good Anthem really is. 5 months after this system was purchased and fully assembled, my wife of 20 years packed up her things and left, citing irreconcilable differences.




I thought you were going to say that she took it with her.


----------



## lumikola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now that my D2 is being fed cooler air, the blue screen problems have gone (or are in hiding).
> 
> 
> But... having had a chance to actually watch some BD movies, I find that with PCM input I get a "static" noise overlaying the audio, but only with the PS3. Change the PS3 to bitstream and the noise is gone. HD-A1 with PCM has no such noise -- only PS3. I hear it on headphones as well, so the cause is not downstream of the D2. The noise is not loud, but clearly audible with a dialog-level soundtrack.
> 
> 
> Any ideas on how to diagnose? All suggestions cheerfully accepted.



Do you or someone else still have the same problem? I also noticed the static noise with PS3 PCM and only with it. Any suggestions?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm just going to give myself a few of these babies:




Cool! Now be ready to spent a lot of time tuning and tuning and tuning.










This is the price to pay to have something so flexible and tunable.










Enjoy!


----------



## Mark Lem

I've read that some of you have/are waiting upwards of 4 weeks or more for your piece.


Called a local dealer today and they said they have some coming in two weeks for other customers, if I order now they can get me in on that shipment.


You think they are pulling my leg?...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Lem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've read that some of you have/are waiting upwards of 4 weeks or more for your piece.
> 
> 
> Called a local dealer today and they said they have some coming in two weeks for other customers, if I order now they can get me in on that shipment.
> 
> 
> You think they are pulling my leg?...



Not necessarily. The products come out of the factory in waves. If you luck out and buy at the right time, your Anthem could be in your hands quite quickly.


However, it is very hard for any given Anthem dealer to keep accurate tabs on product availability. They may truly believe that now is a "quick delivery" time window based on the order they placed yesterday, only to discover that too many other dealers jumped in ahead of them when they actually place your order tomorrow.

--Bob


----------



## Mr. Foo

Got my AVM50 yesterday after about 5 weeks of waiting.


When I took the unit out of the box I did hear a piece move inside - not sure if this is a loose piece of plastic or heaven forbid something more crucial - this has me a little concerned.


Nevertheless, I went ahead and hooked it up with my 70" Sony SXRD XBR2, Panny BD player, Toshiba HD-A1 and Aragon Paladium and 8008x5 amps. Set up went without a hitch. First impressions are that the video quality is on par with the VP50 that I replaced it with (as expected by my previous demo'ing) and both the 2-channel and multichannel audio quality is a step up from my previous Aragon Stage One pre/pro, which was no slouch itself.


Looks like i have v1.11 firmware. Only got to play with it for an hour though. Will do much more this weekend.


Not sure what I should do about that rattling. Anyone else experience this?


----------



## jkmw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Foo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not sure what I should do about that rattling. Anyone else experience this?



Yes. sounded like a ball of solder in my case. Anthem wanted it back, pronto. Hated to do it but away it went and Anthem shipped a new, replacement unit to the dealer. This took about 2 wks, Before they got busy.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is nothing loose inside the Anthem that should make a noise like this. There's a lot of stuff in there, however, and shipping damage can happen. How did the shipping box look?


You should contact Anthem tech support and see what they say. Even if the unit appears to be working, whatever's loose could be part of a circuit you just don't happen to be using at the moment, or could shift down the road and perhaps cause an electrical problem later.


If the unit appears to be working, you may be able to arrange to keep the unit until a replacement gets to your dealer.

--Bob


----------



## Mr. Foo

The box was in excellent condition.


I talked to my dealer and he is authorized to open it up to do a general inspection, which I am having done on Monday. I bet it is a piece of loose solder rattling around. Anything more, and I will get a replacement.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is nothing loose inside the Anthem that should make a noise like this. There's a lot of stuff in there, however, and shipping damage can happen. How did the shipping box look?
> 
> 
> You should contact Anthem tech support and see what they say. Even if the unit appears to be working, whatever's loose could be part of a circuit you just don't happen to be using at the moment, or could shift down the road and perhaps cause an electrical problem later.
> 
> 
> If the unit appears to be working, you may be able to arrange to keep the unit until a replacement gets to your dealer.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,



Scott, congrats on your purchase and welcome to the Anthem family ! It is a wise decision to have the inspection as you want to ensure that there are no problems now or later.



Regards,


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Lem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've read that some of you have/are waiting upwards of 4 weeks or more for your piece.
> 
> 
> Called a local dealer today and they said they have some coming in two weeks for other customers, if I order now they can get me in on that shipment.
> 
> 
> You think they are pulling my leg?...



I've just placed an order for a D2 with A2/A5 amps and my dealer told me that it would be 2-3 weeks based on the feedback that he received after placing the order.


Buddy


----------



## dave-320c




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, and his whole setup was beyond amazing! What a cool guy. He is really into his tubes! I couldn't help but ask him how the D2 compared to his tube based systems, and he said "well, they are different systems, designed to do different things, but I can tell you this: the Anthem is the most musical non tube based pre/pro you can buy"!
> 
> 
> Based on the type of equipment he has in his shop, I can tell you that he knows what he is talking about!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone is looking for a AVM50 or D2 in SoCal, send me or Michael a PM.



Hi:

I may be interested in a d-2 within the next three months. Who do you recommend?

Thank you in advance. Great forum.

Regards,

Dave in San Juan Capistrano


----------



## bluemark81

Hi all! It's been a while since being on here, primarily because my Anthem has worked great since installing V1.11e. What is the latest regarding the release of a a non-beta version of the software? Any other news?


----------



## PooperScooper

My replacement D2 is at the dealer. Looks like the timing was right with the current D2 cycle, about 8 days since the RMA.


larry


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lumikola* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you or someone else still have the same problem? I also noticed the static noise with PS3 PCM and only with it. Any suggestions?



Hi Lumi-

No change. Now that I am aware of it, I have heard it to a much lesser degree on (one so far) HD-DVD played on toshiba HD-A1 (Bone Collector). I will eventually replace my PS-3 when the next generation of BD players comes out - maybe the new Sony S300.


----------



## Catdaddy67

Hey Rob, just noticed you FINALLY got your D2! Congrats!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all! It's been a while since being on here, primarily because my Anthem has worked great since installing V1.11e. What is the latest regarding the release of a a non-beta version of the software? Any other news?



No change yet. V1.11e is the right place to be. They've released later test versions that have problems. No "final" new version has been released yet.


As I recall you were the poster with the "ghost sub" problem. We've had one new poster report a very similar problem using the original V1.11 software. Did your problem get fixed by the V1.11e software?

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Rob, just noticed you FINALLY got your D2! Congrats!



Yep, thanks. I have been too busy to even set it up yet, but should get to it tomorrow (Friday) or Saturday at the latest.


----------



## legacyrocks

QUOTE=Mr. Foo]Got my AVM50 yesterday after about 5 weeks of waiting.


When I took the unit out of the box I did hear a piece move inside - not sure if this is a loose piece of plastic or heaven forbid something more crucial - this has me a little concerned.


Nevertheless, I went ahead and hooked it up with my 70" Sony SXRD XBR2, Panny BD player, Toshiba HD-A1 and Aragon Paladium and 8008x5 amps. Set up went without a hitch. First impressions are that the video quality is on par with the VP50 that I replaced it with (as expected by my previous demo'ing) and both the 2-channel and multichannel audio quality is a step up from my previous Aragon Stage One pre/pro, which was no slouch itself.


Looks like i have v1.11 firmware. Only got to play with it for an hour though. Will do much more this weekend.


Not sure what I should do about that rattling. Anyone else experience this?[/quote]



Hey, I just received my AVM 50 a little over a week ago and I heard a noise when I got it out of the box. I hooked everything up and went to power up and nothing. No power. It turned out that it was a bad power cord. I used one from my Yamaha and it fired right up. Anyways, I told Frank at Anthem about the noise and he said it was probably the buttons on the front panel. I hope this is your case and you don't have to send it back. If everything works I am guessing that might be the noise you heard. Good luck!


----------



## lumikola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Lumi-
> 
> No change. Now that I am aware of it, I have heard it to a much lesser degree on (one so far) HD-DVD played on toshiba HD-A1 (Bone Collector). I will eventually replace my PS-3 when the next generation of BD players comes out - maybe the new Sony S300.



With 'Casino Royale' (and PS3) yesterday, the static noise was clearly present in the beginning of the film, but disappeared totally after 15 minutes or something. Then I started the film again and the dialogue in the beginning was without any problems. Strange


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I really appreciate the responses on my DVD player question. Thanks everyone. Does anyone else have any suggestions for a good all purpose DVD player to take full advantage of the Anthem AVM50 and at the same time have good Audio quality for all forms of CD/DVD-Audio? Thanks again.



Many people get the OPPO 970 since it'll ouput 480i to the processor.


----------



## LEVESQUE

Since Intel just put the HDCP codes out for everyone, I think that all the HDCP issues will now be easier to solve, but Anthem need to work with those new parameters now before coming out with a new firmware...


Before those codes were out, Anthem had to work with one buggy HDCP unit at a time (and buy/find them each!), but now it should be easier...


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I will be setting up my D2 later this evening. Any quick recommendations on what to look for, keep in mind etc?


----------



## lumikola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will be setting up my D2 later this evening. Any quick recommendations on what to look for, keep in mind etc?



Be careful with HDMI cables


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lumikola* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Be careful with HDMI cables



Funny! If there is one thing I know, its this! How could I not? There are at least two separate big warning labels telling me how important it is to be CAREFUL with the HDMI cables, and that misuse will NOT be covered under warranty.


I bought the HDMI port savers from Monoprice, so I will insert those first thing.


----------



## lumikola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Funny! If there is one thing I know, its this! How could I not? There are at least two separate big warning labels telling me how important it is to be CAREFUL with the HDMI cables, and that misuse will NOT be covered under warranty.
> 
> 
> I bought the HDMI port savers from Monoprice, so I will insert those first thing.



Good! I think the other thing you should know is: enjoy!


----------



## barhoram

I 2nd the monoprice port savers. I'm guessing I still have 2 weeks left waiting for until my D1 upgrade is sent back....and the wait has given me plenty of time to get some things lined up. I have monoprice 5 hdmi port savers coming for the D2, as well as 4 good quality hdmi cables from bluejeans. I also pulled all of the component and spdif/coax cables out of the rack. Wow!! what a mess it was. From the look of it, the switch to all HDMI (except for the xbox) is going to remove at least 1/2 of the wiring mess. My HD-DVD version of DVE just arrieved today as well! The waiting game sucks!!


Now, I just need to keep researching 1080p projectors...that's the next thing on the list







For all the D2 owners who have upgraded to the RS-1....where are those gently used older 1080p projectors?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will be setting up my D2 later this evening. Any quick recommendations on what to look for, keep in mind etc?



Use good quality SOURCES.


Some of these three year old devices that thought they

had HDMI right back then - can cause nightmares.


My SYSTEM is 100% PERFECT with the Vanilla FW 1.11.

I have up to date sources and good reputable equipment.


It is all these 1/2 baked old systems that can cause the

D2 problems that Levesque referred to as FIXES in progress.


----------



## Catdaddy67

I have no issues with my PS3 and Tosh A2, well except for the aspect ratio resetting .. which is not source related but bug related which will hopefully be fixed soon.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Use good quality SOURCES.
> 
> 
> Some of these three year old devices that thought they
> 
> had HDMI right back then - can cause nightmares.
> 
> 
> My SYSTEM is 100% PERFECT with the Vanilla FW 1.11.
> 
> I have up to date sources and good reputable equipment.
> 
> 
> It is all these 1/2 baked old systems that can cause the
> 
> D2 problems that Levesque referred to as FIXES in progress.



I will be using Pioneer Elite HD1 (as you know), Toshiba A1, Pioneer Elite 59avi (probably for DVD-A only as I will use the HD1 for 480i output to the D2 for DVD's), and a Scientific Atlanta 8300 HD DVR cable box.


I'm probably most concerned with the 8300 HD.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will be using Pioneer Elite HD1 (as you know), Toshiba A1, Pioneer Elite 59avi (probably for DVD-A only as I will use the HD1 for 480i output to the D2 for DVD's), and a Scientific Atlanta 8300 HD DVR cable box.
> 
> 
> I'm probably most concerned with the 8300 HD.



I think you hit the nail on the head.


All your sources sound fine - WITH THE EXCEPTION of the

8300 HD. I think that could be a problem. BUT if you can

use Component out from the 8300 - you should be OK?


I have 5 DVR's - All SONY DHG-HDD500 - Slick as can be


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will be using Pioneer Elite HD1 (as you know), Toshiba A1, Pioneer Elite 59avi (probably for DVD-A only as I will use the HD1 for 480i output to the D2 for DVD's), and a Scientific Atlanta 8300 HD DVR cable box.
> 
> 
> I'm probably most concerned with the 8300 HD.




I have the 8300HD and it is the less stable of my sources but nothing to worry about. I have some issues but they all related to the 8300Hd itself. The local cable company keep changing the software remotely without advising anybody of course. As a results the behavior change sometime.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It seems your opinion is meliorated and not
> 
> very qualitative when you have no capability
> 
> or experience comparing the two - other
> 
> than on paper.



Meliorated???









No capability???










Not sure what you mean by "no capability" but my gear is "higher-end" than yours.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Well, I've got my D2 set up. Kind of.


Both Blu-ray and HD-DVD seemed to go fine (except Blu-ray not working with 1080p/24 so I may have to try the custom settings later).


Initial impressions in terms of sound quality with uncompressed sound (Casino Royale): incredible! Awesome! Sick! Definitely a very large improvement from what I was getting before. Very, very impressive. Honestly this was a bigger improvement than I had anticipated, so I am extremely happy about this to say the least. Also watched a bit of Happy Feet with Dolby TrueHD with similarly impressive results!










A couple of issues though. For some reason I can't get two of the HDMI inputs to work. Am I missing something? I have gone through every input without success.


Also, while going back and forth in the setup menu, when I tried to go back in after being there numerous times previously, I can't get the menu to come up on my screen. I still get video from the D2 on screen when I change volume etc, but not with the setup menu (it does show on the display panel on the D2). Did I hit a wrong button or something?










Edit: and one other thing, I couldn't turn the D2 off with the remote, I had to use the front panel. But I can turn it ON with the remote.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob, the D2 remote has two different buttons for On and Off. "On" is the upper right red button (labeled "POWER"). "Off" is the red button near the middle (labeled "SSP OFF").


Your issue with two of the HDMI inputs could be many things, including the worst case that those two inputs are actually faulty. But the most likely thing is simply operator error in your configuration of the sources themselves or the Anthem Setup / Source Select stuff. Take a little more time to get familiar with how Setup works, and if you haven't found an obvious answer, then give Anthem tech support a call.


Your issue with on screen display of the Setup menu is odd. The only thing I can think of is that you have turned off (bypassed) the OSD in the Setup / Displays & Timeout menu.

--Bob


----------



## Catdaddy67

Rob, hit "main" at the top of the remote when pulling up the menu. That seemed to work for me.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No change yet. V1.11e is the right place to be. They've released later test versions that have problems. No "final" new version has been released yet.
> 
> 
> As I recall you were the poster with the "ghost sub" problem. We've had one new poster report a very similar problem using the original V1.11 software. Did your problem get fixed by the V1.11e software?
> 
> --Bob




Bob:


Haven't noticed the "ghost sub" issue for a long time. Things have been working wonderfully for quite some time. Been concentrating on upgrading cabling.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob, the D2 remote has two different buttons for On and Off. "On" is the upper right red button (labeled "POWER"). "Off" is the red button near the middle (labeled "SSP OFF").
> 
> 
> Your issue with two of the HDMI inputs could be many things, including the worst case that those two inputs are actually faulty. But the most likely thing is simply operator error in your configuration of the sources themselves or the Anthem Setup / Source Select stuff. Take a little more time to get familiar with how Setup works, and if you haven't found an obvious answer, then give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> 
> Your issue with on screen display of the Setup menu is odd. The only thing I can think of is that you have turned off (bypassed) the OSD in the Setup / Displays & Timeout menu.
> 
> --Bob




Bob, I went back into the HT before reading your post. Let's just say that you were correct on all counts! No surprise there.










Whatever I did with the OSD, it was working when I turned the D2 back on. Went into the setup/source select menus and changed the inputs to HDMI on a couple of them. All of them are working now.


I have my SA 8300HD connected via HDMI. It works. My goodness, the sound quality I am getting even from my Cable is so much better than what I had before, I am simply flabbergasted. I don't know how much of this is due to the HDMI connection and how much is the D2, but I would think it is mostly the D2.


I do get some audio "popping" sometimes when changing channels, and the occassional temporary blue screen, but it isn't horrible. I don't do a ton of channel surfing on my big screen, so I may stay with the HDMI connection intead of going to component. Especially if it means giving up anything in terms of SQ. Did I mention how much of an improvement there is in SQ even with cable!?!?!










Watched a little more blu-ray. I started getting some brief blue screen flashes when outputting 1080i from the Pioneer Elite. This was strange as it hadnt happened the first time I was watching at that resolution. I went into the Pioneers menu and selected "auto" for the resolution. I thought this would make it output 1080p/24. But, I have the D2 outputting 1080i/60 to the RS1 (for now).


I obviously have a LOT more tweaking to do. Haven't even skimmed the surface yet. I still can't get over the improvement in SQ, and I haven't even calibrated my audio levels yet. Bass is noticeably improved. Why would that be? I would think a processor pretty much just passes the .1 signal to the sub, but it sure seems to sound (feel) better to me.


Haven't tried any SD DVD's via 480i yet. Will probably get to that tomorrow.


Anyway, my initial reaction to the D2:


----------



## 3Dfx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is all these 1/2 baked old systems that can cause the D2 problems that Levesque referred to as FIXES in progress.



Anthem does a great job of getting their products to work with them, regardless. Unfortunately we don't live in a perfect world where all equipment is of the same era and designed to work seamlessly with everything else, irregardless of manufacturer.


Much of my gear is new and sometimes has issues working with other pieces, including the Anthem. When it doesn't work however, Anthem has been quick to help determine what the issue is and offer an explanation if not a workaround which can and often has resulted in a remedy. Sometimes older equipment actually works better, i.e. is more compatible, as new equipment is often more backward than forward compatible.


----------



## Fishysan

Sounds good Rob!


BTW - your blue screen issue - do you have the RS1 set to "blue" screen or "black" in your "Back Color" in the setting menu? I had it set to blue (default) and it was driving me nuts at one point when I was getting a lot of dropped signals with my 8300HD and the like. The D2 might be dropping a signal or something when switching resolutions or reacting to crappy signals. If you switch your RS1 to "black" it won't be so much in your face maybe..


Just thoughts.. I'm receiving my D2 tomorrow, and I'm waiting to get a new RS1 back any time now.. so I'll be enjoying the same setup of source/display shortly.


Cheers.


----------



## Fishysan

Or is the blue screen generated by the D2? Hmm.. anyway.. hopefully it works itself out. I'll find out soon enough too. ( A2, PS3, 8300HD as primary sources here ).


----------



## Bperry

Have a D2 on the way. Can someone post a link or part # to the monprice HDMI protector?


Thanks,

Bryan


----------



## Randall Morton

Rob,

I had a feeling you were going to get more of an improvement in sound than you thought you would. Going from the Denon 5800, the difference was huge.


For 24P to work from the Pioneer you have to have Source Direct set and also 24P. In the D2 you have to have the frame lock set to auto and the resolution set to 1080P/24.


Your firmware could be a problem. I still get some glitches with my D2, it has trouble syncronizing with the Pioneer when the frame lock is on auto. Once it syncs, it generally stays synchronized.


For the popping with the 8300, try going into the setup menu and choose the source. Go to source setup(5). Go to j. which is called Muting and try the Max setting. I don't have any popping with the min setting on my 8300. Guess I got lucky there.


----------



## AnthemAVM

I have a question, when I am watching a HD-DVD in TrueHD Dolby, what should I see in the D2 window?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishysan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Or is the blue screen generated by the D2? Hmm.. anyway.. hopefully it works itself out. I'll find out soon enough too. ( A2, PS3, 8300HD as primary sources here ).



By default, the D2 generates an all blue screen as video output if it can't detect a usable video input.

--Bob


----------



## Fishysan

Bperry - it's in the HDMI cable section;
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...ormat=2&style=


----------



## Fishysan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> By default, the D2 generates an all blue screen as video output if it can't detect a usable video input.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, thanks Bob - you mentioned defaults, hopefully that means we can change it to black or something?







The "blank out to blue" on the RS1 was blinding.. I changed it to black.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishysan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, thanks Bob - you mentioned defaults, hopefully that means we can change it to black or something?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The "blank out to blue" on the RS1 was blinding.. I changed it to black.



Yes. Setup / Displays & Timeout / Main OS Color, and Z2 OS Color.


You can also change the shade of Letter/Pillar Box padding that the D2 generates for you if you don't like just Black: Setup / Video Output / Letterbox

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishysan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sounds good Rob!
> 
> 
> BTW - your blue screen issue - do you have the RS1 set to "blue" screen or "black" in your "Back Color" in the setting menu? I had it set to blue (default) and it was driving me nuts at one point when I was getting a lot of dropped signals with my 8300HD and the like. The D2 might be dropping a signal or something when switching resolutions or reacting to crappy signals. If you switch your RS1 to "black" it won't be so much in your face maybe..
> 
> 
> Just thoughts.. I'm receiving my D2 tomorrow, and I'm waiting to get a new RS1 back any time now.. so I'll be enjoying the same setup of source/display shortly.
> 
> 
> Cheers.



You are really going to love this combo!












> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> I had a feeling you were going to get more of an improvement in sound than you thought you would. Going from the Denon 5800, the difference was huge.



As I told you in private, I wasn't expecting a big improvement, as I had been quite happy with my Parasound Halo C2 processor. The Halo has received some really good reviews. You were definitely right Randy, the difference is beyond my expectations.


I just finished watching Disney's The Wild with the family. Uncompressed audio to the D2 was just astonishing! Very rich and full sounding. This is a very special piece of HT gear!



> Quote:
> For 24P to work from the Pioneer you have to have Source Direct set and also 24P. In the D2 you have to have the frame lock set to auto and the resolution set to 1080P/24.



Ah, that's what I forgot...frame lock. I do have the 24p option enabled in the Elite. I can get 1080p/24 out of the Elite without a problem. It's the D2 I have to work with a bit. I don't recall coming across the frame lock option in the menu though. Is it in the "custom" sub menu? Will look closer tomorrow.



> Quote:
> Your firmware could be a problem. I still get some glitches with my D2, it has trouble syncronizing with the Pioneer when the frame lock is on auto. Once it syncs, it generally stays synchronized.



Firmware 1.11 is a problem with 1080p/24 from the Elite?


I did make it all the way through The Wild without a single glitch of any kind. It looked fantastic. I was using somewhat of an unusual combo of settings: 1080p/24 out of the Elite to the D2, then 1080i/60 from the D2 to the RS1, which would then deinterlace it back to 1080p.



> Quote:
> For the popping with the 8300, try going into the setup menu and choose the source. Go to source setup(5). Go to j. which is called Muting and try the Max setting. I don't have any popping with the min setting on my 8300. Guess I got lucky there.



Yep, already have the muting set to max. Still get the occasional popping though, as well as the blue flashes when changing channels. I will have to see how this works out in terms of how bothersome it becomes. Like I said earlier, I don't do a ton of channel surfing in there, as we usually have certain TV shows we watch, and sporting events. But there are other times when I go in their just to relax and channel surf, so we shall see...


I do have another quick question: how do you scroll through the different audio processing formats from the remote (i.e, PLIIx, THX ultra, DTS Neo:6, etc)?


Wow, we've made it to page 200!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Frame Lock is set on a per input basis in the Video Source Adjust / Output menu. Select the input in question and press and hold the "7" key on the remote to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu.


Note that if you have Frame Lock set to Auto for a given input, and are receiving 1080p/24 video from that input, you do NOT also need to have the Anthem's Setup / Video Output set to to 1080p/24. You can set the Video Output to 1080p/60 (which will work better for normal TV watching) and the Frame Lock = Auto will switch that to /24 for the input sending 1080p/24 to the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The blue flashes are probably because your 8300 is taking too long trying to decide what to do to get the HDMI connection established. In the interim the Anthem gives up and puts up its default "no video" all blue screen.


Be sure you have Setup / Source Select / HDMI Repeater = NO set for that input. You also probably want Auto Dig = NO. These two settings will keep some unecessary processing from happening. If you are still getting blue flashes, try upgrading your HDMI input cable. If that doesn't fix it then you've got two workarounds. Either set your 8300 to always send out 1080i (not ideal because that means it is de-interlacing and scaling SDTV for you) or switch to Component video cables and optical audio cable.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Frame Lock is set on a per input basis in the Video Source Adjust / Output menu. Select the input in question and press and hold the "7" key on the remote to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu.
> 
> 
> Note that if you have Frame Lock set to Auto for a given input, and are receiving 1080p/24 video from that input, you do NOT also need to have the Anthem's Setup / Video Output set to to 1080p/24. You can set the Video Output to 1080p/60 (which will work better for normal TV watching) and the Frame Lock = Auto will switch that to /24 for the input sending 1080p/24 to the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Well, that is a nice, tidy piece of advice! Not sure that I would have figured that out on my own even after reading the manual. I will do this first thing tomorrow. Thanks Bob!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The blue flashes are probably because your 8300 is taking too long trying to decide what to do to get the HDMI connection established. In the interim the Anthem gives up and puts up its default "no video" all blue screen.



But why do I not have any problems with the blue flashes when I connect the 8300 directly to the projector? All channel changes are immediate and without incident. There seems to be an incompatibility between the 8300 and the D2 of some sort.



> Quote:
> Be sure you have Setup / Source Select / HDMI Repeater = NO set for that input. You also probably want Auto Dig = NO. These two settings will keep some unecessary processing from happening. If you are still getting blue flashes, try upgrading your HDMI input cable. If that doesn't fix it then you've got two workarounds. Either set your 8300 to always send out 1080i (not ideal because that means it is de-interlacing and scaling SDTV for you) or switch to Component video cables and optical audio cable.
> 
> --Bob



I have set HDMI Repeater = NO for all inputs (for now) based on what I remembered reading before.


I do have Auto Dig = YES on all inputs....without having an understanding of what this does. I guess that's another question: what does Auto Dig do?


As for setting the 8300's output settings, you won't believe this: I used to be able to go into the menu and change the resolution settings. They have "upgraded" the menu's via downloads, I now I can only choose between "upconvert" and some other setting whose name I don't recall right now. I have no idea what "upconvert" means in terms of output resolution. The D2 display says "1080i" when I am watching HD on the 8300 (I NEVER watch SD via the 8300 in my HT). I am guessing that I am pretty much getting 1080i out of the 8300 at all times. I did check a few channels that are supposed to be outputting 720p, but the D2 still showed 1080i.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Auto Dig automatically switches between the chosen digital audio input and the normal analog audio input (the RCA jacks with the same name as the input in question) according to whether or not there is actually a signal present on the digital audio input. For an HDMI connection being used for audio, this shouldn't make a wit of difference. But if the 8300 isn't generating digital audio on its HDMI output fast enough then the Anthem might switch over to the analog input only to have to switch back again.


The timing for setting up an HDMI connection can vary according to how many options the destination offers to the source. The Anthem offers a lot of options to the source. If you are passing audio via HDMI to the Anthem then that's additional stuff the source has to do which it wouldn't do when directly connected to your projector. The bottom line is that the 8300 probably doesn't have a particularly good implementation of the HDMI handshake.


I suspect your new 8300 software is offering you the choice between having all TV converted to 1080i, or passing it all through at its broadcast resolution.


=================================


Note: The Anthem manual's writeup on how to use Frame Lock is based on the assumption that 1080i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz conversion is working correctly. See the writeups linked off the first post in this thread for more details. That's where setting the Anthem output to 1080p/24Hz came from


Since that is NOT working correctly right now. Use the "normal" 1080p/60Hz output from the Anthem instead, and use Frame Lock = Auto to "pass through" 1080p/24Hz from sources that generate it.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Auto Dig automatically switches between the chosen digital audio input and the normal analog audio input (the RCA jacks with the same name as the input in question) according to whether or not there is actually a signal present on the digital audio input. For an HDMI connection being used for audio, this shouldn't make a wit of difference. But if the 8300 isn't generating digital audio on its HDMI output fast enough then the Anthem might switch over to the analog input only to have to switch back again.



Well, that makes perfect sense! I will turn Auto Dig to off on the 8300's input.



> Quote:
> The timing for setting up an HDMI connection can vary according to how many options the destination offers to the source. The Anthem offers a lot of options to the source. If you are passing audio via HDMI to the Anthem then that's additional stuff the source has to do which it wouldn't do when directly connected to your projector. The bottom line is that the 8300 probably doesn't have a particularly good implementation of the HDMI handshake.
> 
> 
> I suspect your new 8300 software is offering you the choice between having all TV converted to 1080i, or passing it all through at its broadcast resolution.



Yes, that's my assumption too.



> Quote:
> =================================
> 
> 
> Note: The Anthem manual's writeup on how to use Frame Lock is based on the assumption that 1080i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz conversion is working correctly. See the writeups linked off the first post in this thread for more details. That's where setting the Anthem output to 1080p/24Hz came from
> 
> 
> Since that is NOT working correctly right now. Use the "normal" 1080p/60Hz output from the Anthem instead, and use Frame Lock = Auto to "pass through" 1080p/24Hz from sources that generate it.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for that. This actually explains some confusion that I was having on this whole 1080p/24 issue and clarified it nicely.


I still have one outstanding question: how do you scroll through the different audio processing formats from the remote (i.e, PLIIx, THX ultra, DTS Neo:6, etc)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

To change audio modes in the Anthem hit the Mode button once and then use the up and down arrows to scroll through.


Note that the choices you have available will depend upon the format of the incoming audio, whether or not you have rear speakers, and whether or not you have engaged THX post processing.


For example, you can't get to Mono-Academy mode if THX is engaged or if the input is DD5.1.


======================


Many folks have reported that there is an extra delay before audio starts up if they send audio over HDMI from their cable box. The problem appears to be that these cable boxes are doing the HDMI handshake TWICE -- once just for video and then again for video+audio. The workaround is to use the HDMI for video and optical audio cable for audio. You'll still have a handshake delay before the video starts, but the audio should start without extra delay.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Watched a little more blu-ray. I started getting some brief blue screen flashes when outputting 1080i from the Pioneer Elite. This was strange as it hadnt happened the first time I was watching at that resolution. I went into the Pioneers menu and selected "auto" for the resolution. I thought this would make it output 1080p/24. But, I have the D2 outputting 1080i/60 to the RS1 (for now).



The BDP-HD1 should be set to source direct

and the D2 output set to 1080p/60 for now.


It will also get all your other input sources

converted to 1080p/60.


That way you will be getting 1080p/24 from

the Pio with Blu-Ray and 480i from SD DVD.


----------



## Randall Morton

I'm having trouble with the blue flashes with the Pioneer also. It takes mine a while to lock in. I've tried the above suggestions and nothing seems to help much. Once I'm locked, it's OK but it goes through a lot of flashing before locking. The Auto Frame Lock in Auto mode is where I get the problem. If I turn this off and output 1080P/60 from the Pioneer there is little problem. Also I have no problems from my XA2 when outputting 1080P.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm having trouble with the blue flashes with the Pioneer also. It takes mine a while to lock in. I've tried the above suggestions and nothing seems to help much. Once I'm locked, it's OK but it goes through a lot of flashing before locking. The Auto Frame Lock in Auto mode is where I get the problem. If I turn this off and output 1080P/60 from the Pioneer there is little problem. Also I have no problems from my XA2 when outputting 1080P.



And I take it you too are seeing no such problems with the Pioneer directly connected to your display for 1080p/24Hz output, right? Which means the display should be happy with the frame rate timings the Pioneer is sending out (as "passed through" the Anthem via Frame Lock = Auto).


What I suspect is happening is that the display itself is unhappy with the change of Anthem HDMI output from /60Hz to /24Hz. Now this change is driven by the HDMI output handshake timing in the Anthem, so it is possible that Anthem could improve this. The Anthem needs to give the display enough time to get its act together after the frame rate change is sent to it. What could be going on is that the Anthem changes output to /24Hz (in response to the incoming signal) and the display doesn't react quite quickly enough so the Anthem does a retry. See if there is any indication on the display that the incoming video rate is cycling between /60Hz and /24Hz during those blue flashes.


Another way to explore this would be to turn off the display, select the Pioneer's /24 output with Frame Lock = Auto and with HDMI Repeater = NO (so that the Anthem input side will complete its HDMI setup even though the display is off), and only THEN turn on the display. This will, I believe, mean that the display only ever sees /24Hz video from the Anthem since the Anthem output side will already be driven by the Frame Lock. If that syncs up cleanly then that would point the finger to the /60Hz to /24Hz TRANSITION as the culprit (as opposed to some error in /24Hz video itself). And again, that's something Anthem might be able to improve.


Now please understand, the changeover from /60Hz to /24Hz requires a new HDMI handshake. You can't get around that. So there will always be SOME video disruption when Frame Lock = Auto triggers the new output frame rate. But it should be a matter of only a second or two for things to stabilize, or perhaps twice that if a retry is needed.


========================================


EDITED TO ADD: If I'm right that this is a /60 to /24 transition problem on the output side of the Anthem, then this also means it just might respond to better/shorter HDMI cabling to the display. If the handshake is marginal for whatever reason, the transition from /60 to /24 might be just that tiny bit of extra complexity (slower response in the display) to cause retries to happen.


If a test with a short HDMI cable worked without problems, then that would be telling. And again, Anthem MIGHT be able to improve it's output handshake algorithm to make this work better despite a marginal cabling situation.


Now the root cause of the problem here may simply be that the display is not well engineered to handle the transition to /24 properly (within HDMI specs). But Anthem has worked around other manufacturer's HDMI problems before. Perhaps the folks with this problem can narrow down the possibilities and give Anthem something to work with.

--Bob


----------



## Bperry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishysan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bperry - it's in the HDMI cable section;
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...ormat=2&style=



Fishysan,


Thanks, ordered some this morning!


----------



## Bill DePalma

This is my first post on this thread as I have just switched out a bunch of components in my theater at one time (probably a bad idea, it's getting confusing).

What I am working with now is the anthem av50, RS1 projector, Toshiba AX2 HD-DVD, Sony BDP blu-ray, Oppo 970 dvd, and dish sat. reciever. My hope was to bring all 4 HDMI sources into anthem for audio and some video processing (video from the oppo's 480i output and whatever native resolution is coming off the dish receiver).

My problems are first and foremost, I can't seem to get the anthem to recognize the HDMI inputs from any of my components except the oppo. My output resolution is set 1080p/24 to go into the RS1 (I've also tried 1080p/60 with no success),

Occasionaly I'll get an image flash from one of the sources but that's about it.

I get exactly the same behaviour with a Ruby projector in place of the RS1. I know that it is probaly user error. There so many choices in connections and set ups that I am sure I've set something wrong. I have followed all the logical set ups, so far but no success. I do get audio from these sources. I am using high quality, short HDMI cables from Better Cables, so that's not it. The outputs from the HD dvdplayers is set to 1080p/24. Any ideas?

Second problem. The Oppo, while it is making the connection to anthem properly, I am getting posterization in the shadows. I assume this a color space issue. I have tried all the combinations of 4:4:4 thru RGB extended and nothing clears this up completely. This is a bit frustrating since I can clearly see the quality advavantage in the Anthem processor. Short of the posteriztion, the image quality is much improved over having toshiba AX2 do the upcoversion, which until now, I thought was excellent.

Sorry for the rambling post, but I can see the advantage of the Anthem and I want to make it work in my system

thanks

Bill


----------



## rudolpht

Bill,


If you go back and read the last 8 or 9 posts, the settings recommendations with Rob should address a bunch of the problems mentioned.


Rob,


I have the Comcast Moto HD box (know your SA box is different) and the new Tivo S3 DVR with a terabyte of storage). I tried both via HDMI expecting the picture and (in the case of Tivo) sound to be much better than Component video & optical audio. Moving to optical audio and no auto dig got rid of pops and spurious loss of audio. Moving to component got me back two HDMI ports and ZERO source drops for menu switches, guide switches, channel switches etc. with NO discernible (even a foot away from a 12' screen) video degradation.


I fought Hank on this for a week seeing how I could keep my save the world HDMI connections functioning, but I dropped "down" to Component and maintained 720p & 1080i output and the picture was the same. So you owe it to yourself to try it, YMMV and your expectations may assume HDMI is better, but qualitatively you may find it, begrudgingly thanking Hank







, a good change.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bill,

You may just have been bit by the 1080i/1080p bug in the V1.10 and V1.11 software that has hit a small percentage of owners. Anthem can provide new, test software for you -- most likely V1.11e -- that will eliminate this.


This bug can be triggered if ANY input is sending 1080i or 1080p to the Anthem (even if that source is not currently selected) on either Component or HDMI, or if the output of the Anthem is set to 1080i or 1080p. To see if that's your problem, set your sources to 720p or lower, set the Anthem output to 720p, and then (and this is an essential step), power-cycle the Anthem. If the video is now working then you need the newer software.


--------------------------------------------------


Read the "video calibration for non-ISF techs" link in the first post in this thread for guidance on setting things up. The key is to set up the video output side of the Anthem FIRST -- independent of ANY sources. Then adjust the input side of the Anthem for each source in turn.


I suggest until you are sure things are working smoothly that you use 1080p/60Hz output from the Anthem -- presuming that is working solidly with your display as tested with the Anthem's own Setup screen and Video Source Adjust menu test patterns -- and leave Frame Lock = OFF for all inputs.


In addition, insure that Setup / Source Select / HDMI Repeater = NO and AutoDig = NO are set for all inputs.

--Bob


----------



## earwit

Well I purchased A D2 in February,

Plugged it in, worked great via:

PS3, ToshA1, 79avi, and Motor HD Box.

I have beeen one very happy guy on the audio and video end.


I swapped the unit from my dealer for a smaller 17 inch front

unit that fits my rack better, updated D2 with 1.11e..


Updated all setting , same as prior unit.


Currently video feed to my Pana projector,(via hdmi)

the last quarter screen on the left is blank, and

the area that is projecting, has vertical lines,

and a green tint to it..I get this regardless

of what componet source used..Any ideas???/

I tried the inverted setting in Video which made it worse..



Bob


----------



## Fishysan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are really going to love this combo!



Indeeeeeed!







I got my D2 now, just going to set it up and replace the big hole where my AVM-30 was.










I still have to wait a few more days to get an RS1 back, I've been without one for 2wks here..







I miss it.


I have a new prismasonic lens (upgraded my old one), the RS1 and the D2 to do HD stretch, etc. etc. but have to wait a few more days to finally have all 3 pieces lined up for some HD source! WOO!


----------



## Fishysan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The blue flashes are probably because your 8300 is taking too long trying to decide what to do to get the HDMI connection established. In the interim the Anthem gives up and puts up its default "no video" all blue screen.
> 
> 
> Be sure you have Setup / Source Select / HDMI Repeater = NO set for that input. You also probably want Auto Dig = NO. These two settings will keep some unecessary processing from happening. If you are still getting blue flashes, try upgrading your HDMI input cable. If that doesn't fix it then you've got two workarounds. Either set your 8300 to always send out 1080i (not ideal because that means it is de-interlacing and scaling SDTV for you) or switch to Component video cables and optical audio cable.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob (I've been noting various things you've mentioned through out for mine) - the other option too is to set your default colors to black for the OSD and or on the RS1 also once things are setup .. it's not as in your face as black. I did that with my RS1 and the 8300HD (direct) as it was blinding (with it new and HP screen, etc).


----------



## Bill DePalma

Bob-

thanks so much I will give it all a try and get back to you

thanks

bill


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *earwit* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I purchased A D2 in February,
> 
> Plugged it in, worked great via:
> 
> PS3, ToshA1, 79avi, and Motor HD Box.
> 
> I have beeen one very happy guy on the audio and video end.
> 
> 
> I swapped the unit from my dealer for a smaller 17 inch front
> 
> unit that fits my rack better, updated D2 with 1.11e..
> 
> 
> Updated all setting , same as prior unit.
> 
> 
> Currently video feed to my Pana projector,(via hdmi)
> 
> the last quarter screen on the left is blank, and
> 
> the area that is projecting, has vertical lines,
> 
> and a green tint to it..I get this regardless
> 
> of what componet source used..Any ideas???/
> 
> I tried the inverted setting in Video which made it worse..
> 
> 
> 
> Bob



First try to isolate whether the problem is on the video input or output side of the Anthem. Do this by using the Anthem's internally generated video with no video input from your selected source.


If you are getting this when trying to bring up the Anthem Setup menu while using an Anthem input that has no video coming into it, then that sounds like a video output failure. Let's work that problem without any sources.


First, try 480p output from the Anthem (presuming your projector will accept that over HDMI). That's the least demanding choice. Make sure you have Setup / Video Output / Preferred = HDMI and try both settings of Setup / Video Output / HDMI Sync at 480p to see if you can get it to work. If you still can't get a good image of the Setup menu, power everything down, and use a flashlight to take a close look at the HDMI plugs and sockets looking for signs of pin damage.


The only other thing I can suggest would be to power off all of your sources (best to just disconnect them from wall power), thn go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and Reload Factory Defaults. Then, with sources still powered off, go in to Setup / Video Output and MANUALLY re-enter your Anthem video output settings rather than trying to restore them from a saved file.


If still no joy, there's nothing for it but to work the issue with Anthem tech support. While waiting, you may want to try Component video to see if the problem is unique to the HDMI video output.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To change audio modes in the Anthem hit the Mode button once and then use the up and down arrows to scroll through.
> 
> 
> Note that the choices you have available will depend upon the format of the incoming audio, whether or not you have rear speakers, and whether or not you have engaged THX post processing.
> 
> 
> For example, you can't get to Mono-Academy mode if THX is engaged or if the input is DD5.1.



Thanks. Sorry for being too lazy to look this up.











> Quote:
> ======================
> 
> 
> Many folks have reported that there is an extra delay before audio starts up if they send audio over HDMI from their cable box. The problem appears to be that these cable boxes are doing the HDMI handshake TWICE -- once just for video and then again for video+audio. The workaround is to use the HDMI for video and optical audio cable for audio. You'll still have a handshake delay before the video starts, but the audio should start without extra delay.
> 
> --Bob



This might be a good compromise (HDMI for video, Optical for audio) if using the optical audio puts a stop to the popping, which I would imagine it probably does.


(only 7 more posts until 6000!)


----------



## Bill DePalma

Bob-

Well, it seems I may need a sofware update. I lowered the output of the anthem to 720p and was able to sync up my toshiba with toshiba outputting 720p.

However, more distressing are the horrible banding artifacts I am getting. Just terrible. Both via the oppo and the toshiba. My display is the RS1. I have set all the color space settings to auto (as well as tried 4:4:4 and all the others but no change) the banding is always there. I am just upconverting standard dvd. Different gama settings in the RS1 don't help either. Any ideas here, have people complained of banding in the anthem? No one would live with what I am getting at this point

thanks

Bill


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill DePalma* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob-
> 
> Well, it seems I may need a sofware update. I lowered the output of the anthem to 720p and was able to sync up my toshiba with toshiba outputting 720p.
> 
> However, more distressing are the horrible banding artifacts I am getting. Just terrible. Both via the oppo and the toshiba. My display is the RS1. I have set all the color space settings to auto (as well as tried 4:4:4 and all the others but no change) the banding is always there. I am just upconverting standard dvd. Different gama settings in the RS1 don't help either. Any ideas here, have people complained of banding in the anthem? No one would live with what I am getting at this point
> 
> thanks
> 
> Bill



OK, the software should fix your 1080 problem. Give Anthem tech support a call. They may also want to verify with you that your HDMI cables are well enough made to handle the bandwidth of 1080p signals.


Don't judge any HD-DVD or Blu-Ray video at 720p as the players really don't do 720p well at all.


So concentrate on your Oppo.


First order of business is to set up the Anthem video output and your RS1 settings as described in the "video calibration for non-ISF techs" post linked off the first post in this thread. Banding problems are most commonly due to having the display in the wrong "picture mode" or having improper Black/White level settings. Don't even bother with looking at DVDs on the Oppo until you have set up things correctly for Anthem output to the RS1 as described in that post.


For example, make sure that you haven't cranked up Contrast too high on the RS1 (which will cause white crush and dark gray banding). Check the gray bars test pattern internally generated by the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Patterns) and make sure all the bars are distinguishable. Then re-check that you have the Brightness setting set correctly using the Anthem's SMPTE test pattern. Contrast and Brightness interact, so you will likely have to iterate a while to get the best compromise setting for the two of them.


You should see absolutely no signs of banding in any of the Anthem's own, internally generated video. Just review what's in that "calibration" post and take your time.


Once you feel comfortable you have the Anthem output side set up correctly, then work on the Anthem input side for the Oppo input. Anthem input levels can be adjusted in the Video Source Adjust / Picture menu. Do *NOT* use the projector's level controls for this -- they are already set "right" for the output video from the Anthem. Again this is discussed in that "calibration" post.


You will need a calibration DVD such as Avia or Digital Video Essentials (DVE). Avia doesn't generate "Blacker than Black" on its test charts, but DVE does. If you are using DVE, keep in mind that the Blacker Than Black stuff is NOT SUPPOSED TO BE VISIBLE once you've got your levels set correctly. The Avia moving black bars chart has two moving black bars, one darker than the other. Both are above "Black" in value. The darker one should only be just barely visible in a dimly lit room.


Also make sure you can distinguish ALL the moving white bars in those test charts. If you can't make that happen, then you likely have Contrast cranked up too high on the RS1. Revisit the Anthem video output side (re-adjust the levels in the RS1) and then START OVER with the Anthem input side for the Oppo input.


Your Anthem input levels should need only minor adjustment, if any, from factory defaults to make the calibration DVD test charts look right. If you find you are making major adjustments to input, after the output side is set correctly, than something is wrong.


Now having completed the output adjustments (using the projector's level controls) and then the input adjustments (using the Anthem's input controls), check out the gray ramps on your calibration DVD. They should look pretty smooth.


NOW go look at some movies and see if your banding problem hasn't been greatly reduced or even eliminated. Keep in mind that some standard DVDs have pretty crappy transfers. Good video equipment such as you now have will *NOT* make those mistakes go away. In fact it will likely make them more noticeable. There is a forum here where folks discuss standard DVD titles, and there's a thread with suggested "reference quality" DVD titles you may want to check out.

--Bob


----------



## cpcat

Just wanted to report that V1.11e (courtesy of Nick and Frank) has fixed my issues with input cropping while set to 1080i/p output. Now all is well. Thanks to Anthem support.










As an aside, it appears my film mode functions more consistently now. Before it would almost always signal "off" even when viewing 1080i film-based material and with film mode set to "auto detect". Now, it appears to function as intended and locks to "on" with a film source while occasionally toggling off/on due to a lost lock.


----------



## PooperScooper

New (replacement) D2 up and running. Only minor scare was that RGB output setting is not saved with the PC tool. It came back as YCbCr 4:2:2 and gave me a scare for a second.










larry


----------



## Bill DePalma

Bob-

Thanks for reply. I always do a complete setup before I start these things. But just to be on the safe side I did a whole routine with Avia, again, checking both my Oppo as a 4801 source and my AX2 as a 480p source (lowest you can go on that machine) With the JVC set in Cinema mode and contrast and brightness dialed in with all flavors of the pluge patterns I am still getting really significant banding from both source machines. Avia's many ramp patterns provide a great visual to my problem. The subtle gradations of grey are rendered as coarse pixelated steps. Taking the Anthem out of the process and viewing directly in the RS1 via the toshiba's upconverter, renders a very smooth gradation of tone. Something's up with my anthem. Like I mentioned, it is used,six months old but new to me, perhaps there is something wrong with the unit. I have a call and email into anthem, and the guy I purchased from.

What do you think?

thanks

Bill


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I went in and changed the Frame Lock to auto for my Blu-ray input. Played a Blu-ray disc, and sure enough, I was getting 1080p/24, which was confirmed by the JVC's info screen.


Then I went in to change my output to 1080p/60 (had been using 1080i/60). It does not work. All I get is a blue screen. This was for all the other inputs too. I then unplugged the HDMI to the projector and plugged it directly into the Blu-ray player. Set the Blu-ray player to output "1080p", which I believe means it is outputting 1080p/60. It would not work either. This leads me to believe that I may have a problem with my HDMI cable. This sucks because it is in drywall and I cant easily add another cable.










Put output back to 1080i/60 and everything is working.


Anyway, after playing with other stuff, including my cable box, I went back to blu-ray. Blu-ray player shows 1080p/24 output, and this is confirmed by the Anthem. BUT, the D2 is now outputting 1080i/60 to the projector!


Checked Frame Lock, and it is still set to auto.


Info screen on D2 showed Frame Lock "inactive"!










I'm a little frustrated right now, but it may be that my HDMI cable is insufficient to do 1080p/60. But it DOES do 1080p/24, so it would be nice if that resolution was actually working from the D2.....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm a little frustrated right now, but it may be that my HDMI cable is insufficient to do 1080p/60. But it DOES do 1080p/24, so it would be nice if that resolution was actually working from the D2.....



I would say your diagnosis is correct.


Your HDMI cable will not support 1080p/60


Even if it is working at the lower bandwidths

- getting a BETTER CABLE will IMPROVE all your

PQ at all the bandwidths.


----------



## cpcat

I use the 22g Monoprice and it works fine for 1080p60 at 50 feet.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm a little frustrated right now, but it may be that my HDMI cable is insufficient to do 1080p/60. But it DOES do 1080p/24, so it would be nice if that resolution was actually working from the D2.....



Another thought:


Try setting up 1080p60 output with frame lock "off" and see if it works.


If it does, you could set up two layers: one 1080p24 output with framelock on (for BlueRay) and the other 1080p60 output with framelock off (for video sourced material). These would be SAT1 and SAT2 for example. You then toggle between by pressing the SAT input button.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill DePalma* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob-
> 
> Thanks for reply. I always do a complete setup before I start these things. But just to be on the safe side I did a whole routine with Avia, again, checking both my Oppo as a 4801 source and my AX2 as a 480p source (lowest you can go on that machine) With the JVC set in Cinema mode and contrast and brightness dialed in with all flavors of the pluge patterns I am still getting really significant banding from both source machines. Avia's many ramp patterns provide a great visual to my problem. The subtle gradations of grey are rendered as coarse pixelated steps. Taking the Anthem out of the process and viewing directly in the RS1 via the toshiba's upconverter, renders a very smooth gradation of tone. Something's up with my anthem. Like I mentioned, it is used,six months old but new to me, perhaps there is something wrong with the unit. I have a call and email into anthem, and the guy I purchased from.
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> thanks
> 
> Bill



Yup, sounds to me like you've got a video problem in the Anthem.


We've had almost no reports of such problems in this thread. Generally speaking, the Anthem video stuff can be depended upon to do video right or to be really screwed up to the point of not even getting a solid image.


However, since you know you need the new software anyway, I think your best bet is to wait until that is installed and try again. Anthem has never publicised what's going on with the 1080i/1080p bug. So it may be that your video processing firmware is simply not initializing properly at all and the banding you are seeing may be an unusual symptom of that.


I can assure you that the type of gross banding you are describing is NOT normal. So contact Anthem tech support, try the new software if they offer it to you, and if that doesn't fix it, call them again for a unit swap out.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just wanted to report that V1.11e (courtesy of Nick and Frank) has fixed my issues with input cropping while set to 1080i/p output. Now all is well. Thanks to Anthem support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As an aside, it appears my film mode functions more consistently now. Before it would almost always signal "off" even when viewing 1080i film-based material and with film mode set to "auto detect". Now, it appears to function as intended and locks to "on" with a film source while occasionally toggling off/on due to a lost lock.



Cool! Yours is the first report that the "film mode" status indicator is reporting more valid results in the V1.11e software. The Anthem appears to actually go into Film Mode properly even in the original V1.11 software, so it was just the status indication that appeared to be in error. But who knows?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I went in and changed the Frame Lock to auto for my Blu-ray input. Played a Blu-ray disc, and sure enough, I was getting 1080p/24, which was confirmed by the JVC's info screen.
> 
> 
> Then I went in to change my output to 1080p/60 (had been using 1080i/60). It does not work. All I get is a blue screen. This was for all the other inputs too. I then unplugged the HDMI to the projector and plugged it directly into the Blu-ray player. Set the Blu-ray player to output "1080p", which I believe means it is outputting 1080p/60. It would not work either. This leads me to believe that I may have a problem with my HDMI cable. This sucks because it is in drywall and I cant easily add another cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put output back to 1080i/60 and everything is working.
> 
> 
> Anyway, after playing with other stuff, including my cable box, I went back to blu-ray. Blu-ray player shows 1080p/24 output, and this is confirmed by the Anthem. BUT, the D2 is now outputting 1080i/60 to the projector!
> 
> 
> Checked Frame Lock, and it is still set to auto.
> 
> 
> Info screen on D2 showed Frame Lock "inactive"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a little frustrated right now, but it may be that my HDMI cable is insufficient to do 1080p/60. But it DOES do 1080p/24, so it would be nice if that resolution was actually working from the D2.....



Your cable problem at 1080p/60hz would be quite common. Unfortunately.


The fact that the D2 is not triggering Frame Lock on the /24Hz input from your Blu-Ray player is unusual. My first thought is that you are, perhaps unsuspectingly, using one of the "overlayed" Anthem inputs (i.e., DVD2 vs. DVD1) and you haven't set Frame Lock = AUTO on that overlayed input.


Go into Setup / Source Select and "disable" any overlayed inputs you don't intend to use (first menu item). This will prevent your selecting one by accident and getting yourself confused.


Then be sure you have set Frame Lock = Auto on the specific inputs for which that is appropriate.

--Bob


----------



## DSNORD

How's this guys? Brand new AVM50/Sharp 46" in the upstairs family room and D2/Pearl in the basement theater as part of a major music/video distrbution system I'm upgrading to. Installer puts them in Wednesday. By Friday we have determined the AVM50 has 2 bad HDMI inputs and won't handle 1080i input from my STB. I can watch 720p but no better. The D2 could handle the Oppo feeding it 480i (not sure what the installer had it outputting to the Pearl), but when I kicked on Discovery HD at 1080i Wednesday night, it would play for about 30 seconds then lost picture but not sound. Switching to DVD gave sound but no picture either. Even the OSD would not come up.


Anthem is replacing the AVM50. They thought the D2 had "Just a software problem" and sent me 1.11e and 1.11g (I'm not sure what it shipped with). Neither one works. I can't get the OSD to display let alone anything else. My installers had Frank from Anthem on the phone for 2 hours on Friday troubleshooting things, and I spoke to Frank too later in the day and received the 2 software downloads. I spent 4 hours today trying every way imaginable to upload them, but after each firmware upgrade, the D2 HDMI just wouldn't lock on to the Pearl. A blue screen would jump to a black screen with a jagged white line running across the bottom for a few seconds then revert back to the blue screen when I tried to engage the OSD.


My installers, the regional distributor, and Anthem's phone tech support are all converging here Monday to figure this out.


2 strikes for 2 at bats for Anthem. So far, I am unbelievably unimpressed with my nearly 10K investment in these 2 units!!!!! Do these things actually work? Or are they "not ready for prime time"? After reviewing a large part of this thread, I seem to not be the only one with major issues with these units. I've never had a piece of new electronic gear DOA before, let alone 2 of them. Maybe they are rushing things out the door just a little too quickly.


I'll keep everyone posted with any info they give me. Any advice is appreciated. I will give Anthem credit to this regard- their phone support seems to be as responsive as reported here previously.


Scott


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Your cable problem at 1080p/60hz would be quite common. Unfortunately.
> 
> 
> The fact that the D2 is not triggering Frame Lock on the /24Hz input from your Blu-Ray player is unusual. My first thought is that you are, perhaps unsuspectingly, using one of the "overlayed" Anthem inputs (i.e., DVD2 vs. DVD1) and you haven't set Frame Lock = AUTO on that overlayed input.
> 
> 
> Go into Setup / Source Select and "disable" any overlayed inputs you don't intend to use (first menu item). This will prevent your selecting one by accident and getting yourself confused.
> 
> 
> Then be sure you have set Frame Lock = Auto on the specific inputs for which that is appropriate.
> 
> --Bob



Unfortunately this was the first thing that I thought of, and wasn't the problem. I was using "DVD1" input on both occasions. It makes no sense why it would work originally, but not now? Confirmed twice that Frame Lock = Auto for "DVD1" input. As indicated before, the info screen on the D2 shows it receiving a 1080p/24 signal, but outputting 1080i/60, and Frame Lock = inactive. This shouldn't have anything to do with my cable.


Also, I forgot to mention in my previous post, I am still having very strange issues with my OSD. It works very sporadically. Sometimes I just get a blue screen. Should you be able to bring up the setup menu while you are watching video? So far I can't see any rhyme or reason to the OSD issue I am having.










Currently I am getting zero value out of the video processing of the D2. Part of that appears to be the fault of my cable. But part of it is also due to the D2 (inability to lock onto the 1080p/24 and simply pass it through to the projector).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I use the 22g Monoprice and it works fine for 1080p60 at 50 feet.



I was going to order one from Blue Jeans Cable, but perhaps Monoprice would be a safer bet if it is confirmed that it works with 1080p/60?!


Anyone else have recommendations between Blue Jeans and Monoprice?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Scott, yup they work. It sounds like you've got the big guns on the case already so I won't try to add anything, except to say that these are complicated units, and failures can be caused by many things. Give Anthem a chance to work through the issues with you. It IS worth the effort.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob, your Frame Lock problem is unique. We haven't had any other reports like that. Best give Anthem a call.


On your OSD, issue, yes you should be able to bring up the Setup screen even if you are currently watching video. However I believe that involves a new handshake, so if you are having cable problems, that may be part of the issue here.

--Bob


----------



## Bill DePalma

Bob-

thanks so much for your helpful input. I have a call into anthem, we'll see what they think. Like I said, short of the banding I can see the magic that is possible with this unit. Thanks for your help, you are clearly a busy guy on this thread, we appreciate it

Bill


----------



## Fishysan

Got mine up and running seemingly quite nicely. Sweet piece. I've not yet used any scaling features other than playing to test and custom setups yet for CIH & lenses, etc. HDMI stuff is all working peachy. Unit was easy to setup for me already being familiar with the old OSD (non-genum).


However, something odd that I have right now, and not figured out, is why 1080i or higher won't work over component with my xbox 360.. I can only use 720p at this point. I've used 1080i+ with both my backup PJ and my RS1.


I'm not sure if it's because I'm using my backup 720p PJ right now? Though the D2's taking 1080i from HDDVD and from HD Cable perfectly via HDMI -> HDMI.


I'll have to experiment with the A2 outputting via component, etc. tomorrow to see.


Anyone see anything like that before? BTW - this is component transcoded to HDMI currently outputting 720p60.. and I'm running stock 1.11 as shipped on the unit. I'll put a request out for 1.11e and the like.


NOTE: Ok, it looks like this might be the 1080i/p bug in 1.11 fixed by 1.11e or newer? According to what I've seen BobP talk about (with lizard_king).. kudos to Bob again!!


That sound like the case? A word out to anthem tomorrow then to get a beta version.


And hopefully I'll have my RS1 back in a few days to switch back to that... to see.


Cheers!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob, your Frame Lock problem is unique. We haven't had any other reports like that. Best give Anthem a call.



Well, this should make it even more unique: watching a blu-ray movie tonight, I had the Pioneer outputting 1080p/24 but still had the same issue: frame lock said "inactive", and the D2 was outputting 1080i/60 to the PJ. Unfortunately, I was getting noticeable stuttering every minute or two. It would only last a second, but it was noticeable. This went on for about 20 minutes, so I decided to change the output on the Pioneer to 1080i to see what happened.


At 1080i out of the Pioneer to the D2, there was no more stuttering at all. For fun, I checked the info menu in the D2 again, and this time Frame Lock said "active"!












> Quote:
> On your OSD, issue, yes you should be able to bring up the Setup screen even if you are currently watching video. However I believe that involves a new handshake, so if you are having cable problems, that may be part of the issue here.
> 
> --Bob



This issue isn't getting any better or clearer. Tried working with it some more, and last time I got the OSD to actually come on screen, it was black and white, and I could not highlight the sub menu that I wanted to enter (I had to look at the D2's display to see where I was).


Since I am able to watch a movie at 1080i without issue, and I now have the D2 outputting 1080i/60, I seriously doubt that my cable has anything to do with the OSD issue (and I have had it working before too).


Looks like I will be contacting Anthem........


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No change yet. V1.11e is the right place to be. They've released later test versions that have problems. No "final" new version has been released yet.
> 
> 
> As I recall you were the poster with the "ghost sub" problem. We've had one new poster report a very similar problem using the original V1.11 software. Did your problem get fixed by the V1.11e software?
> 
> --Bob



.


OK, in my music config my sub is set to none and the D2 is still sending a signal. Was this issue specifically addressed in release 1.11e? Is 1.11e stable? Does it address any of the handshaking issues? With my Oppo every time I change cds I lose my connection. While simply switching inputs solves the problem it is rather annoying. I am running 1.06 and have tried multiple times to upgrade around the 1st of the year and it did not go well getting the OKI loader error. The version on the website seems to be the old 1.11.


Thanks,


Lou


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Lou,

The version on the web site is, indeed, still the original V1.11. You can get V1.11e (or whatever version Anthem suggests is better for you) direct from Anthem tech support.


Versions after about V1.11c should no longer give you install problems. This is the first thing they addressed.


From reports here, V1.11e seems to be stable, and the best of the versions available now. Bluemark81 originally reported the "ghost sub" problem. He's now on V1.11e and no longer has that problem. However no fix specific to that problem was noted in the Anthem release notes.


We've had numerous reports here that V1.11e has dramatically reduced handshake problems even above V1.11 -- which itself was far better than V1.06. I doubt they are completely eliminated, however.


Nevertheless, V1.11e remains "test" software -- not yet an official, public release.

--Bob


----------



## Catdaddy67

Rob,


When I have issues pulling up the menu on OSD, hitting "main" on the remote first seems to solve the problem for me. That might be too simplistic, or might not be your issue at all, but it does seem to work in regards to pulling the menu to the display.


Regarding the cable issues my 60 foot HDMI cable worked fine with my HD-DVD, PS3, Vantage HD, but introducing the AVM50 to the equation left me a lot of drops. Since I have switched to a 30' cable, same make, havent had any issues.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

Frame Lock = Auto will, of course, "frame lock" with 1080i/60Hz input. It's just that this makes no difference if your default output is already set to /60Hz.


Yes, you should definitely talk to Anthem about your /24Hz Frame Lock problem and also about your OSD issue. My guess is they'll ask you to move up to the V1.11e software, and also, since you know you have a 1080p problem with your cable anyway, try some experiments with improved cable.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

After skimming most of this thread I think I made the right decision on the D2. I will be hooking up thru HDMI the following:


Oppo 970

Tivo Series 3

XBox 360

Scientific Atlantica 8300


To the D2 and on to a Sony KDF60XS955, any tips I need to know will be greatly appreciated. It looks as if Bob and Levesque should be paid for the advice they give here.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 
> When I have issues pulling up the menu on OSD, hitting "main" on the remote first seems to solve the problem for me. That might be too simplistic, or might not be your issue at all, but it does seem to work in regards to pulling the menu to the display.
> 
> 
> Regarding the cable issues my 60 foot HDMI cable worked fine with my HD-DVD, PS3, Vantage HD, but introducing the AVM50 to the equation left me a lot of drops. Since I have switched to a 30' cable, same make, havent had any issues.



Rob, et. al.,

The Anthem remote is a multi-device remote, and the Anthem itself acts like 3 different devices that can each be controlled. The buttons at the top of the remote select which device the remote will try to control. It is easy to select a different "device to control" and then forget that you have done so. Remote button presses, then, won't have the expected effect.


It is also easy to confuse the "device to control" buttons at the top of the remote with the "input to watch" buttons at the bottom of the remote.


Whenever the Anthem doesn't seem to be responding properly to the remote it is wise to try hitting the Main button (in the green patch at the top left of the remote) to make sure the remote is actually sending commands intended to control the Main path of the Anthem.


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Other things to keep in mind: The remote is also an electronic device and can fail. There is a procedure in the manual for resetting the remote ITSELF back to its factory defaults. You can also try doing operations using the second included remote or the front panel buttons to determine if your problem is due to the first remote itself not functioning correctly.


If something fundamental, such as getting the Setup screen to come up, is not working -- and particularly if you are a new owner and may have made some configuration setting changes that you don't quite understand -- consider going to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and doing a Reload Factor Defaults to start over.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishysan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got mine up and running seemingly quite nicely. Sweet piece. I've not yet used any scaling features other than playing to test and custom setups yet for CIH & lenses, etc. HDMI stuff is all working peachy. Unit was easy to setup for me already being familiar with the old OSD (non-genum).
> 
> 
> However, something odd that I have right now, and not figured out, is why 1080i or higher won't work over component with my xbox 360.. I can only use 720p at this point. I've used 1080i+ with both my backup PJ and my RS1.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if it's because I'm using my backup 720p PJ right now? Though the D2's taking 1080i from HDDVD and from HD Cable perfectly via HDMI -> HDMI.
> 
> 
> I'll have to experiment with the A2 outputting via component, etc. tomorrow to see.
> 
> 
> Anyone see anything like that before? BTW - this is component transcoded to HDMI currently outputting 720p60.. and I'm running stock 1.11 as shipped on the unit. I'll put a request out for 1.11e and the like.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Ok, it looks like this might be the 1080i/p bug in 1.11 fixed by 1.11e or newer? According to what I've seen BobP talk about (with lizard_king).. kudos to Bob again!!
> 
> 
> That sound like the case? A word out to anthem tomorrow then to get a beta version.
> 
> 
> And hopefully I'll have my RS1 back in a few days to switch back to that... to see.
> 
> 
> Cheers!



What is the Component output resolution from your XBOX to the Anthem?


If it is 1080p/60Hz then that's your problem right there. Although the Anthem can "process" HDMI 1080p/60Hz input, it can only "pass through" Component 1080p/60Hz input. Processed Component video (either input or output) is limited to 1080i/60Hz (or 1080p/30Hz). Converting Component input to HDMI output is one type of processing that will be limited in this fashion.


However, if you are sure the XBOX is sending 1080i/60Hz instead of 1080p/60Hz, then yes, the newer Anthem "test" software could be the answer. The Anthem should have no problem processing Component 1080i/60Hz input to HDMI 720p/60Hz output.


Since you are only having this problem with the XBOX, double check your settings there, and also check the XBOX related threads in the player forum here to see if there is some firmware update needed for the XBOX itself.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 
> When I have issues pulling up the menu on OSD, hitting "main" on the remote first seems to solve the problem for me. That might be too simplistic, or might not be your issue at all, but it does seem to work in regards to pulling the menu to the display.
> 
> 
> Regarding the cable issues my 60 foot HDMI cable worked fine with my HD-DVD, PS3, Vantage HD, but introducing the AVM50 to the equation left me a lot of drops. Since I have switched to a 30' cable, same make, havent had any issues.



I remember you saying this earlier (your post did not go unnoticed







) so I did try this, but it made no difference.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> Frame Lock = Auto will, of course, "frame lock" with 1080i/60Hz input. It's just that this makes no difference if your default output is already set to /60Hz.



Oh, I understand perfectly. The point that I was making was why does the info menu on the D2 show "Frame Lock = Inactive" when sending it 1080p/24, but when I switch to 1080i/60, the info screen shows "Frame Lock - Active"???



> Quote:
> Yes, you should definitely talk to Anthem about your /24Hz Frame Lock problem and also about your OSD issue. My guess is they'll ask you to move up to the V1.11e software, and also, since you know you have a 1080p problem with your cable anyway, try some experiments with improved cable.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I probably have a V1.11e update in my future. This is going to be a pain for me since I don't have a laptap, so I will probably have to disconnect the D2 and bring it to my desktop.




> Quote:
> Rob, et. al.,
> 
> The Anthem remote is a multi-device remote, and the Anthem itself acts like 3 different devices that can each be controlled. The buttons at the top of the remote select which device the remote will try to control. It is easy to select a different "device to control" and then forget that you have done so. Remote button presses, then, won't have the expected effect.
> 
> 
> It is also easy to confuse the "device to control" buttons at the top of the remote with the "input to watch" buttons at the bottom of the remote.



I understand all this, but it definitely isn't my problem. As indicated in my prior post, last night I got the setup menu to come up but it was Black and White, and it would not highlight the menu that I was trying to enter. I had to look on the D2's display screen to see where I was. The strange thing is that I am able to get into the Video Source Adjustment menu just fine by pressing (and holding) the #7 button on the remote.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

The reason the Frame Lock control has only the choices AUTO and OFF rather than also having an ON setting is that some input signals that might be fed to the Anthem can not be locked. I.e., the Anthem can't switch to sending that frame rate as output because it isn't supported.


So the Frame Lock "active" vs. "inactive" status in the Info panel indicates whether or not the Anthem was able to lock its output to the input frame rate. If the Frame Lock control itself is set to OFF, then of course the status should always be "inactive" since the Anthem never tries to do the locking of input to output. But if the Frame Lock control is set to AUTO, the status could be either "active" or "inactive" according to whether the Anthem was able to achieve the lock of input to output rates.


In your case, the Anthem was able to achieve this for your 1080i/60Hz input but not for your 1080p/24Hz input. Thus the different status indications. Now WHY it couldn't lock for the 1080p/24Hz input is the mystery. But the status display itself is, apparently, working correctly.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> The reason the Frame Lock control has only the choices AUTO and OFF rather than also having an ON setting is that some input signals that might be fed to the Anthem can not be locked. I.e., the Anthem can't switch to sending that frame rate as output because it isn't supported.
> 
> 
> So the Frame Lock "active" vs. "inactive" status in the Info panel indicates whether or not the Anthem was able to lock its output to the input frame rate. If the Frame Lock control itself is set to OFF, then of course the status should always be "inactive" since the Anthem never tries to do the locking of input to output. But if the Frame Lock control is set to AUTO, the status could be either "active" or "inactive" according to whether the Anthem was able to achieve the lock of input to output rates.
> 
> 
> In your case, the Anthem was able to achieve this for your 1080i/60Hz input but not for your 1080p/24Hz input. Thus the different status indications. Now WHY it couldn't lock for the 1080p/24Hz input is the mystery. But the status display itself is, apparently, working correctly.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, of course that make sense (not quite as mysterious as I made it out to be) and the "active" vs "inactive" status at the various resolutions only proves that I do have the Frame Lock option in "Auto".


But as you say, the question is why it wasn't able to lock on to the 1080p/24 signal anymore, because this WAS working originally, using the SAME source (Casino Royale Blu-ray).


Another thing I failed to mention re the OSD: when I try to bring up the Setup Menu, I _always_ get, at a minimum, a blank blue screen. If I look on the D2's display, it shows the Setup Menu. So, I am getting a response to my inputs on the remote.


Edit: BTW, would putting HDMI repeater to "on" have any impact on sending 1080p/60 to the pj?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After skimming most of this thread I think I made the right decision on the D2. I will be hooking up thru HDMI the following:
> 
> 
> Oppo 970
> 
> Tivo Series 3
> 
> XBox 360
> 
> Scientific Atlantica 8300
> 
> 
> To the D2 and on to a Sony KDF60XS955, any tips I need to know will be greatly appreciated. It looks as if Bob and Levesque should be paid for the advice they give here.
> 
> 
> Thanks




Take a read on the various issues with the S3 and the Anthem. First 11e is as high a beta that you will want to go, and even there you will likely have sound and/or video drops. Going Component+ Digital sound will get rid of 720p menu shake and other anomalies.


Some non-Tivo people are even brave enough to try testing component vs HDMI to see the relative differences (negligible if any) and put their problems behind. Rob?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

The Setup menu graphics and the Video Source Adjust menu graphics are generated by two different portions of the Anthem hardware. You could have either a firmware or hardware problem that is affecting your Setup menu display.


While waiting to get to Anthem, try this:


* Confirm that Setup / Video Output / S-Video OSD is set to NTSC


* Confirm that Setup / Video Output / Preferred is set to HDMI.


* Confirm that Setup / Video Output / Data Format is set to YCbCr 4:4:4


* Back, out of the Video Output menu and accept any changes you had to make.


* Open the V1.1x manual to page 39, go to Setup / Displays & Timeout and confirm that each line in that menu matches the default settings printed in the manual.


* Back completely out of the Setup menu and then try to re-enter the Setup menu and see if there is any improvement.


I'm presuming that at this point you are only using the Main path and the Anthem's HDMI output. If you are trying to do Zone2 stuff, Component, or S-video to your display, then things could be more complicated.


If the above still doesn't get the Setup menu on HDMI, and if you can manage the cabling, try the Main Component output to your display and see if the Setup menu comes up that way. That might help Anthem further isolate what's going on.

--Bob


----------



## Fishysan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the Component output resolution from your XBOX to the Anthem?



It was originally set to 1080i and I was getting a blue -> green -> blue flashing/cycling on screen.


I then routed the component output from the 360 to my computer monitor to change it to 720p and tried again on a different component input on the D2 and voila we had a display.. I switched back to component input #1 and all was still well at 720p so it wasn't an input issue.


As soon as I then tried to switch to 1080i it wouldn't display, and thankfully the 360 goes back to the previous setting quickly if you don't respond. It also has the latest software.. and I've used it with my Cinema 500 and my RS1 in that fashion so it's D2 related.


I did note in the manual that 1080p/60 component only passes though (to component I gather? not HDMI as the scaler needs to do the transcoding?).


I suspect it's the 1080i bug - I'll try the 1.11e version as soon as I can get it.


Thanks Bob!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

HDMI Repeater = NO makes the Anthem pretend to the source that the source is directly connected to a TV. The HDMI spec assumes the source will handle the ENTIRE chain of devices when setting up the whole, end to end connection, but many sources have screwed this up. With HDMI Repeater = NO the source only has to talk to the Anthem. The Anthem takes care of the rest. If the actual TV is off, the Anthem will present itself to the source as an HDCP compliant TV that happens to accept an unusually wide range of resolutions and audio formats. If the actual TV is on the Anthem will accurately report to the source whether or not the actual TV is HDCP compliant.


Setting HDMI Repeater = YES sets the Anthem to take its "normal" role as a repeater. The sources will have to query the display THROUGH the Anthem. This can lead to all sorts of problems, such as the inability to listen to music discs if your actual TV is turned off.


Although you can imagine situations where the source could get better info by querying the display through the Anthem instead of depending upon the Anthem, so far I've found absolutely no situations in which HDMI Repeater = YES is a good idea, given that Anthem implements HDMI Repeater = NO properly.


I'm sure HDMI Repeater = YES is in there, and is the default, only because HDMI ORG insisted.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishysan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It was originally set to 1080i and I was getting a blue -> green -> blue flashing/cycling on screen.
> 
> 
> I then routed the component output from the 360 to my computer monitor to change it to 720p and tried again on a different component input on the D2 and voila we had a display.. I switched back to component input #1 and all was still well at 720p so it wasn't an input issue.
> 
> 
> As soon as I then tried to switch to 1080i it wouldn't display, and thankfully the 360 goes back to the previous setting quickly if you don't respond. It also has the latest software.. and I've used it with my Cinema 500 and my RS1 in that fashion so it's D2 related.
> 
> 
> I did note in the manual that 1080p/60 component only passes though (to component I gather? not HDMI as the scaler needs to do the transcoding?).
> 
> 
> I suspect it's the 1080i bug - I'll try the 1.11e version as soon as I can get it.
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob!



Yes it sounds like it MIGHT be the 1080i bug. I'm hesitant however since the most common report here is that if you get bit with that bug then ALL video from ALL sources is screwed up until you remove the 1080 signal and power cycle the Anthem.


In any event, the V1.11e software is likely your next step.

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After skimming most of this thread I think I made the right decision on the D2. I will be hooking up thru HDMI the following:
> 
> 
> Oppo 970
> 
> Tivo Series 3
> 
> XBox 360
> 
> Scientific Atlantica 8300
> 
> 
> To the D2 and on to a Sony KDF60XS955, any tips I need to know will be greatly appreciated. It looks as if Bob and Levesque should be paid for the advice they give here.
> 
> 
> Thanks



As rudolpht mentioned, I also don't recommend using HDMI for your S3, as those of who use(d) this combo will sometimes lose the video, audio and video, or audio only. Video problems will result in a blue screen when changing channels, while video resolutions change between 480i-720p-1080i. The fix for this is to simply power down and restart the Anthem. This would happen to me a few times a week.


With the help of Bob and Drhankz, a couple suggestions were recommended to me when using the S3.


First, use component and toslink. Next, if your display accepts 480i-720p-1080i, set the S3 output to native. Also, be sure to set the S3 to output full screen, and let the Anthem scale to your choice. I use letterbox, as this allows 480i material to be displayed with the black bars on the side, as intended with a widescreen display (to me, no stretching and sharper pic). Your HD programming will still come through full screen.


Using this method, the Anthem scaler is able to use every last pixel from the S3 and scale accordingly, maximizing your picture quality. If you letterbox from the S3, you lose pixels.


If your SA 8300 allows you to make similar adjustments, I recommend you do the same here as well. You may want to use component with the 8300 to avoid the "blue flicker" HDMI may cause when changing between various resolutions (channels).


Mark


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Take a read on the various issues with the S3 and the Anthem. First 11e is as high a beta that you will want to go, and even there you will likely have sound and/or video drops. Going Component+ Digital sound will get rid of 720p menu shake and other anomalies.
> 
> 
> Some non-Tivo people are even brave enough to try testing component vs HDMI to see the relative differences (negligible if any) and put their problems behind. Rob?



Haven't tried it yet, Tim, but it is good to know that this is a viable option without losing much in terms of quality.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> The Setup menu graphics and the Video Source Adjust menu graphics are generated by two different portions of the Anthem hardware. You could have either a firmware or hardware problem that is affecting your Setup menu display.
> 
> 
> While waiting to get to Anthem, try this:
> 
> 
> * Confirm that Setup / Video Output / S-Video OSD is set to NTSC
> 
> 
> * Confirm that Setup / Video Output / Preferred is set to HDMI.
> 
> 
> * Confirm that Setup / Video Output / Data Format is set to YCbCr 4:4:4
> 
> 
> * Back, out of the Video Output menu and accept any changes you had to make.



Check to all four of these.



> Quote:
> * Open the V1.1x manual to page 39, go to Setup / Displays & Timeout and confirm that each line in that menu matches the default settings printed in the manual.
> 
> 
> * Back completely out of the Setup menu and then try to re-enter the Setup menu and see if there is any improvement.



Will go in and confirm this.



> Quote:
> I'm presuming that at this point you are only using the Main path and the Anthem's HDMI output. If you are trying to do Zone2 stuff, Component, or S-video to your display, then things could be more complicated.



Yes, using Main only, and only HDMI output.



> Quote:
> If the above still doesn't get the Setup menu on HDMI, and if you can manage the cabling, try the Main Component output to your display and see if the Setup menu comes up that way. That might help Anthem further isolate what's going on.
> 
> --Bob



Good idea!


----------



## FilmMixer

Rob.... sorry for all of your frustrations.. but a couple simple suggestions to try. I've had some issues in the past that mysteriously showed up, but went away later after some of the following...


It's a PITA, but I would try and clear out your D2 by restoring factory defaults, pulling AC and restarting from scratch. Set your output to 1080i/60 and see if your problems go away...


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob.... sorry for all of your frustrations.. but a couple simple suggestions to try. I've had some issues in the past that mysteriously showed up, but went away later after some of the following...
> 
> 
> It's a PITA, but I would try and clear out your D2 by restoring factory defaults, pulling AC and restarting from scratch. Set your output to 1080i/60 and see if your problems go away...



Thanks, I will give that a try later today (after watching the race at Talladega). Not much to lose, really.


----------



## soapman72

Hi all,


I've been lurking here for a while, and have finally decided to join. I have an AVM50 that I've had for 2 weeks now. I have a couple of nagging issues that I could use some help with.


I have read nearly every reply in this thread, and although it is certainly possible that I missed this info, I dont think this has been answered before. If it has, please accept my apologies.


I am having problems (started yesterday) with brief blue flashes while watching DVDs my sony player is hooked up to component input #1 and I am using the HDMi out to my Sony SXRD KDS55A2000.


The last 3 or 4 movies I watched had at least 1 occurance of the blue flash wile watching the movie. I was not pausing the movie, skipping chapters or anything, but I got a brief (maybe 1-2 sec) blue screen while watching. The audio continues playing while the video is gone. Needless to say, I have never had any problems with the player dropping the video when connected straight to the TV.


I also have not observed any Blue screens while watching satellite TV (directv hr20). The satellite box is connected using HDMI. But again, no blue screens while watching satellite.


I will call Anthem, but I was hoping that someone has an Idea what I might check first. I have to say, that I am blown away by the sound, video, and sheer flexibility of this processor, but I am shocked by the number of issues, especially video problems, that users seem to be having with this unit.


BTW, the software vers. is 1.11 as shipped. I have yet to update to any of the beta versions. Thanks guys!


Sean


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sean,

What resolution of video are you sending from the DVD player to the Anthem?


Normally I would suggest that your DVD symptoms mean that you have a marginal HDMI cable from the Anthem to your TV. [The timing you describe sounds like a failed attempt to re-confirm that the HDCP (copy protection) is still in place.] But since you are not seeing these issues with your DirecTV input, it must be something else.


So my first thought now is that the Component cables from your DVD player to the Anthem are either faulty or are not fully inserted in the jacks.


If your blue flashes are happening frequently enough try this: Grab each DVD Component cable in turn, about an inch from the jack, and wiggle it a bit. If you see any change in the flashes (more flashes or less flashes) double check that this particular plug is fully inserted. If it is fully inserted, try replacing that cable. Be sure to check both ends of all 3 Component cables between the DVD player and the Anthem.


If checking the cables doesn't do it for you, then talking this over with Anthem is probably your best bet.


---------------------------------------------------------


As to the number of issues with these units: Be aware that there is A TON more open discussion of issues here than is typical for most home theater electronics. You will seldom find such open discussion of "test" software releases for example. Watching sausage get made can be disturbing. Same here. People with problems are far more likely to post than those who are happy, particularly on a thread like this with so many users willing to try to help.

--Bob


----------



## 3Dfx

soapman72:


The same thing happens here with my series 3 TiVo. It's connected via component to the AVM50 and the Anthem is connected to the display via HDMI. The blue screens are generated by the Anthem whenever it loses signal input. Changing cables did not solve the problem so I suspected it was either a TiVo or Anthem issue.


I'm now leaning toward the Anthem as being the cause, as it doesn't occur if the TiVo is connected directly to the display, using the same component cables.


I'm running 1.11g


----------



## ILJG

Quick questions...will the D2 be firmware updateable to 1.3 (1.3a or 1.3b, whatever those differences are?)


Also, what's the status on proper 1080p24?


----------



## yatchaks

Sean,


Although this shouldn't happen, I wonder if the DVD discs you had the problem with are dual layer, and you are losing the video for a second or two when the disc starts reading the second layer? Just a thought.


Mark


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> soapman72:
> 
> 
> The same thing happens here with my series 3 TiVo. It's connected via component to the AVM50 and the Anthem is connected to the display via HDMI. The blue screens are generated by the Anthem whenever it loses signal input. Changing cables did not solve the problem so I suspected it was either a TiVo or Anthem issue.
> 
> 
> I'm now leaning toward the Anthem as being the cause, as it doesn't occur if the TiVo is connected directly to the display, using the same component cables.
> 
> 
> I'm running 1.11g



Is this happening when simply watching a program, or when changing channels?


If only during the channel changing, I believe, if running the S3 in native mode, the brief blue screen is common and is a result of resloution (channel) changing.


Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ILJG* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick questions...will the D2 be firmware updateable to 1.3 (1.3a or 1.3b, whatever those differences are?)
> 
> 
> Also, what's the status on proper 1080p24?



If you mean HDMI V1.3, etc., the answer is that it can't happen by software change alone. At the very least the HDMI driver chips for HDMI V1.3 are different. Anthem has not pre-announced any HDMI V1.3 products. I would not expect any HDMI V1.3 products (or upgrades) from Anthem this year.


The vast majority of reports here are that 1080p/24 input to either 1080p/60 output or 1080p/24 output is working correctly now.


1080p/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion (for film based content embedded in a video rate stream) is not working properly. There are two distinct issues. Anthem's default timings for 1080p/24 output are not working with some displays. Custom timings can be entered by the owner to fix this. And the conversion itself from 1080p/60 or 1080i/60 rate input to 1080p/24 rate output is not solid. Stuttering occurs. Anthem is aware of the issue and working on it, but there is no ETA on a fix.

--Bob


----------



## ILJG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you mean HDMI V1.3, etc., the answer is that it can't happen by software change alone. At the very least the HDMI driver chips for HDMI V1.3 are different. Anthem has not pre-announced any HDMI V1.3 products. I would not expect any HDMI V1.3 products (or upgrades) from Anthem this year.
> 
> 
> The vast majority of reports here are that 1080p/24 input to either 1080p/60 output or 1080p/24 output is working correctly now.
> 
> 
> 1080p/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion (for film based content embedded in a video rate stream) is not working properly. There are two distinct issues. Anthem's default timings for 1080p/24 output are not working with some displays. Custom timings can be entered by the owner to fix this. And the conversion itself from 1080p/60 or 1080i/60 rate input to 1080p/24 rate output is not solid. Stuttering occurs. Anthem is aware of the issue and working on it, but there is no ETA on a fix.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks for understanding my unfairly cryptic questions. Yes, I meant HDMI and 1080i60 --> 1080p24 conversion. I'll check back periodically on the status of this conversion since I do want to update my receiver soon, and the D2 looks great for a lot of things, I just want to be sure the multiple 1080i60 sources I have (cable, HD DVD) will be handled OK...and next time I'll ask my questions more clearly.


----------



## Randall Morton

Does anyone have 1080P/24fps working correctly through the D2 to the RS1? I get cyclic stutters (picture only)about every 45 seconds when I have the output of the D2 set to 1080P/60.


If I change the output to 1080P/24 the stutters become less frequent and random but still occur. This is using a Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1. My firmware is 1.11e.


The frame lock is still causing problems. If I want to play a Blu-ray disc through the Pioneer at 24fps, I have found that it works best to start the disc and turn off the D2. I then power it back up and it syncs much better with the player.


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sean,
> 
> What resolution of video are you sending from the DVD player to the Anthem?
> 
> 
> Normally I would suggest that your DVD symptoms mean that you have a marginal HDMI cable from the Anthem to your TV. [The timing you describe sounds like a failed attempt to re-confirm that the HDCP (copy protection) is still in place.] But since you are not seeing these issues with your DirecTV input, it must be something else.
> 
> 
> So my first thought now is that the Component cables from your DVD player to the Anthem are either faulty or are not fully inserted in the jacks.
> 
> 
> If your blue flashes are happening frequently enough try this: Grab each DVD Component cable in turn, about an inch from the jack, and wiggle it a bit. If you see any change in the flashes (more flashes or less flashes) double check that this particular plug is fully inserted. If it is fully inserted, try replacing that cable. Be sure to check both ends of all 3 Component cables between the DVD player and the Anthem.
> 
> 
> If checking the cables doesn't do it for you, then talking this over with Anthem is probably your best bet.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> As to the number of issues with these units: Be aware that there is A TON more open discussion of issues here than is typical for most home theater electronics. You will seldom find such open discussion of "test" software releases for example. Watching sausage get made can be disturbing. Same here. People with problems are far more likely to post than those who are happy, particularly on a thread like this with so many users willing to try to help.
> 
> --Bob




Guys,


Thanks for the detailed replies. The sony DVD player is putting out 480i over component. The cables are new (although this doesnt mean they are good), but I'll check the cables at both ends for proper insertion into the jacks. BTW, if a cable was bad, and 1 certainly could be, wouldnt the other 2 ensure the picture wasnt lost, just messed up? Just wondering........


Also, I wondered about HDMI being at the root of the problem, since that is how I connect to my TV. Are there periodic "handshake" events that occur between the Anthem and the TV while watching?? I did just make it through a 2 hour movie without incident.......


I also thought about the layer change idea, but although we have all seen the little freeze that sometimes occurs at the time of the layer change, I've never seen the video go away, and for what it's worth, the blue screen happened 2x during Casino Royale, so it wasn't the issue that time for sure.


I'll update if I find anything.


Thanks!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> The Setup menu graphics and the Video Source Adjust menu graphics are generated by two different portions of the Anthem hardware. You could have either a firmware or hardware problem that is affecting your Setup menu display.
> 
> 
> While waiting to get to Anthem, try this:
> 
> 
> * Confirm that Setup / Video Output / S-Video OSD is set to NTSC
> 
> 
> * Confirm that Setup / Video Output / Preferred is set to HDMI.
> 
> 
> * Confirm that Setup / Video Output / Data Format is set to YCbCr 4:4:4
> 
> 
> * Back, out of the Video Output menu and accept any changes you had to make.
> 
> * Open the V1.1x manual to page 39, go to Setup / Displays & Timeout and confirm that each line in that menu matches the default settings printed in the manual.
> 
> 
> * Back completely out of the Setup menu and then try to re-enter the Setup menu and see if there is any improvement.
> 
> 
> I'm presuming that at this point you are only using the Main path and the Anthem's HDMI output. If you are trying to do Zone2 stuff, Component, or S-video to your display, then things could be more complicated.
> 
> 
> If the above still doesn't get the Setup menu on HDMI, and if you can manage the cabling, try the Main Component output to your display and see if the Setup menu comes up that way. That might help Anthem further isolate what's going on.
> 
> --Bob



You are a genius Bob! I have no idea how it got changed, but "e. Z2 ON-Screen: S-V only" got changed to "bypass". The other thing I don't understand is why this would cause a problem for the "main" zone anyway? In any event, once I changed this back to "S-V Only", the OSD appears to be working now (although it wasn't immediately stable when I tried it on a different input).


If I hadn't caught this, I'm sure Marc's suggestion to reload factory setting would have resolved it too.


Anyway, thanks for the advice, it worked!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone have 1080P/24fps working correctly through the D2 to the RS1? I get cyclic stutters (picture only)about every 45 seconds when I have the output of the D2 set to 1080P/60.
> 
> 
> If I change the output to 1080P/24 the stutters become less frequent and random but still occur. This is using a Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1. My firmware is 1.11e.
> 
> 
> The frame lock is still causing problems. If I want to play a Blu-ray disc through the Pioneer at 24fps, I have found that it works best to start the disc and turn off the D2. I then power it back up and it syncs much better with the player.



I played with it more tonight, and still couldn't get frame lock to work with 1080p/24. The one time that I did have it "working" with frame lock, I also noticed the stuttering about once every minute or two. So it appears that even if Frame Lock does lock onto the 1080p/24 signal from the Pioneer, there is still an issue synching with the RS1. I will try what you suggest re turning the D2 off and back on while the disc is already playing.


I can't get 1080p/60 to my RS1, apparently due to a cable issue (new one is coming from Monoprice) but it is disheartening to hear that you are getting stuttering with 1080p/60 too. You already have 1.11e, so I won't even bother trying to go that route.


----------



## FilmMixer

^^^ Glad to hear it's fixed...


As a side note... I was at Ray's get together yesterday, and he was running the Sony BR player directly to his RS1.... when in 24f mode, and I believe with only AVC encoodes, it was stuttering.. no problems with these discs in 1080p/60, but it seems that some of this 24f issues may be player related also.. I know that the Sony and Pioneer BR players share alot, so I am curious as to what discs you have been looking at.. we checked "Open Season" and "Chicago" and they stuttered away in 24frame mode.


I will be curious to see what Nick has to say about this...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> (new one is coming from Monoprice)



I buy all my cables from Monoprice. Just super great value.


But I *would not* buy my PJ cable from them. That is the

most critical cable in your system because it is always

the longest one and the one you are trying to drive at

the highest bandwidth through.


ALSO - if your HDMI cable run to the PJ is over 10 meters

you are in never never land. You might need a repeater.


FYI - 1080p/24 from the BDP-HD1 to the D2 and then

1080p/60 to a PJ is ROCK SOLID. People with RS1 who

are having shutter problems with these settings should

check in with Anthem and LEVESQUE. It also could be

a HDMI cable problem at 1080p/60.


----------



## Tolstoi

"I do get some audio "popping" sometimes when changing channels, and the occassional temporary blue screen, but it isn't horrible. I don't do a ton of channel surfing on my big screen, so I may stay with the HDMI connection intead of going to component. Especially if it means giving up anything in terms of SQ. Did I mention how much of an improvement there is in SQ even with cable!?!?!







"


This is the type of issues I was talking about.


"Watched a little more blu-ray. I started getting some brief blue screen flashes when outputting 1080i from the Pioneer Elite. This was strange as it hadnt happened the first time I was watching at that resolution. I went into the Pioneers menu and selected "auto" for the resolution. I thought this would make it output 1080p/24. But, I have the D2 outputting 1080i/60 to the RS1 (for now)."


Before playing with 1080p24 through the D2 make sure you have a really stable 1080p60 with frame lock off and the Elite at 1080p60


This will allow you to focus on stabilizing the setup without worrying about issues associated with 1080p24.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was going to order one from Blue Jeans Cable, but perhaps Monoprice would be a safer bet if it is confirmed that it works with 1080p/60?!
> 
> 
> Anyone else have recommendations between Blue Jeans and Monoprice?




I changed all the cable for Ultralink HDMI Pro Platinum. These ar ethe bast cable I used I even compared them in my own settup way more expensive cable such as the Audioquest and wireworld that are 3 time mores expense but don't perform better than the Ultralink. I even use a run of 10meters between the D2 and my projector without any issues. They worth the extra compare to monoprice cables.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I changed all the cable for Ultralink HDMI Pro Platinum. These ar ethe bast cable I used I even compared them in my own settup way more expensive cable such as the Audioquest and wireworld that are 3 time mores expense but don't perform better than the Ultralink. I even use a run of 10meters between the D2 and my projector without any issues. They worth the extra compare to monoprice cables.



AMEN - the PJ cable needs to be the BEST

because of the LENGTH.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> AMEN - the PJ cable needs to be the BEST
> 
> because of the LENGTH.



So much time lost never to be recovered because of bad cables.










The toys we are playing with are pushing the technology to its limits we need to remove unnecessary concerns.


----------



## Randall Morton

I talked to Anthem tech support this morning about the stuttering issue with the Pioneer BDP-HD1 when running 1080P @ 24fps. I didn't get an answer but was told they will get a Pioneer player and check for the problem.

Can't ask for more.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soapman72* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the detailed replies. The sony DVD player is putting out 480i over component. The cables are new (although this doesnt mean they are good), but I'll check the cables at both ends for proper insertion into the jacks. BTW, if a cable was bad, and 1 certainly could be, wouldnt the other 2 ensure the picture wasnt lost, just messed up? Just wondering........
> 
> 
> Also, I wondered about HDMI being at the root of the problem, since that is how I connect to my TV. Are there periodic "handshake" events that occur between the Anthem and the TV while watching?? I did just make it through a 2 hour movie without incident.......
> 
> 
> I also thought about the layer change idea, but although we have all seen the little freeze that sometimes occurs at the time of the layer change, I've never seen the video go away, and for what it's worth, the blue screen happened 2x during Casino Royale, so it wasn't the issue that time for sure.
> 
> 
> I'll update if I find anything.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



We had one poster report a rather bizarre problem where Component 480i input was not being handled correctly by the Anthem. The symptom was that the input resolution (as reported in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel) was being detected as 480x1440i or even 482x1440i instead of the correct 480x720i. The result was either that his input video was not recognized (blue screen) or that he had a picture with visible vertical resolution artifacts. The V1.11e software did not help.


Anthem was in the process of scheduling a unit swap out for this poster when the V1.11g software became available. V1.11g was supposed to address some other, rare, Component video issues. They had him try it, and voila the problem was fixed! Now the V1.11g software has been reported to have audio problems with the Toshiba HD-DVD players that do not exist in the V1.11e software so it isn't normally the one I would recommend. And Anthem has not come out with a newer version yet that's better (at least we've had no reports here). But if you check Video Source Adjust / Info and see that 480x1440 input resolution reported, or if you switch to 480p input and the problem goes away, then you should definitely give Anthem tech support a call.


Many people are using Component 480i input without issues, so it is not known what was peculiar about this one, reported unit.


------------------------------------------------


Normally if you drop just one of the Component cables you will still get imaging, but the colors will be off. However the Anthem has to get enough of a signal to detect "sync" -- the timings of the video. If that's what you lose then the Anthem will revert to assuming no input signal, and will generate a blue screen.


Your HDMI output will periodically re-check that HDCP (copy protection) is still good. Normally you don't see that, although it takes a second. But if the HDCP check fails, then the video output will be shut down while the Anthem retries. And thus you can get a blue screen for a second or two during the retry and until the proper connection is re-established. As I said in my first reply, that's what the timing on your blue flashes sounds like. But since you are *NOT* seeing them with other sources, that can't be what's going on.


------------------------------------------------


One other thing to check: For each of your sources, select that source in the Anthem, then press and hold the "7" key until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up, then scroll to the Output panel and then down to the Frame Lock line, and confirm that Frame Lock = OFF for each of your sources.


If Frame Lock = Auto is set for your Component 480i source, that could be part of the problem.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I talked to Anthem tech support this morning about the stuttering issue with the Pioneer BDP-HD1 when running 1080P @ 24fps. I didn't get an answer but was told they will get a Pioneer player and check for the problem.
> 
> Can't ask for more.




LEVESQUE - is there official BETA tester.


He has this setup - Pioneer BDP-HD1 > D2 > RS1.


PM him and Ask him - I will.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

On your OSD issue: I suspect you have Zone 2 video output set to be a copy of the "processed" Main video output even though you are not currently using Zone 2. This would be normal.


When you then set Zone 2 OSD to "bypass" I suspect the Anthem has decided to also override the OSD setting for the Main path when you try to bring up the Setup menu since it can't generate Setup graphics for one and not also for the other.


If that's what's going on then the problem is that the user interface to select these options is more confusing than it could be. I suspect they did it this way because the problem is only with respect to the Setup menu -- which is used much less often than the other OSD stuff. But still, they could probably come up with setting descriptions that make this less confusing.


I'm not sure where your B&W Setup display came from.


Since you are going to talk to Anthem anyway about your other issues, you might as well mention this OSD thing so that they can put it on the list to try to make it less confusing in a future release.


Going in and out of Setup involves a new syncing up of the video much in the way changing INPUT resolutions does. So there will almost always be some brief video disruption as you go in and out of the Setup menu. And that will vary depending upon the INPUT source resolution you are coming from or going to.

--Bob


----------



## KIDSMD1

For another 2cents!! Since Febuary I have been using my D2 (v1.11) to an Hitachi SX5600 (hopefully in 3rd wave of RS1 preorder) with a 10 meter (no repeater) BETTER CABLES HDMI cable connected to a DVI connector along with BETTER CABLES HDMI cables from the XA2 to the D2 and despite DCHP issues I have been enjoying absolutely stunning 1080i movies of SD and HD content without stuttering or any of the other problems reported in this thread. Also, via component to D2 the PS3, SA8300, and DirecTv H20 are working perfectly at 1080i. The BETTER Cables HDMI cables are absolutely superb!


I hope I won't start experiencing all these noted problems when I finally get my RS!!


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LEVESQUE - is there official BETA tester.
> 
> 
> He has this setup - Pioneer BDP-HD1 > D2 > RS1.
> 
> 
> PM him and Ask him - I will.



One thing I find interesting is that when the BDP-HD1 is connected to the projector directly, the RS1 reports vert freq of 47.96. When the D2 is connected it reports 48. I think this is just the way the D2 reports and is not related to the problem. Nick suggested that it could be an HDMI handshake issue. The handshake happens at regular intervals and not just one time. I will PM LEVESQUE.


I'm using a 25 ft. Monoprice HDMI cable with no issues. 1080P/60 works perfect.

Thanks


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, I will give that a try later today.



Wait a minute. I go away for a few days and you get your D2, Rob, and I still don't have my RS-1.


Where's the official complaint department?


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We had one poster report a rather bizarre problem where Component 480i input was not being handled correctly by the Anthem. The symptom was that the input resolution (as reported in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel) was being detected as 480x1440i or even 482x1440i instead of the correct 480x720i. The result was either that his input video was not recognized (blue screen) or that he had a picture with visible vertical resolution artifacts. The V1.11e software did not help.
> 
> 
> Anthem was in the process of scheduling a unit swap out for this poster when the V1.11g software became available. V1.11g was supposed to address some other, rare, Component video issues. They had him try it, and voila the problem was fixed! Now the V1.11g software has been reported to have audio problems with the Toshiba HD-DVD players that do not exist in the V1.11e software so it isn't normally the one I would recommend. And Anthem has not come out with a newer version yet that's better (at least we've had no reports here). But if you check Video Source Adjust / Info and see that 480x1440 input resolution reported, or if you switch to 480p input and the problem goes away, then you should definitely give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> 
> Many people are using Component 480i input without issues, so it is not known what was peculiar about this one, reported unit.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Normally if you drop just one of the Component cables you will still get imaging, but the colors will be off. However the Anthem has to get enough of a signal to detect "sync" -- the timings of the video. If that's what you lose then the Anthem will revert to assuming no input signal, and will generate a blue screen.
> 
> 
> Your HDMI output will periodically re-check that HDCP (copy protection) is still good. Normally you don't see that, although it takes a second. But if the HDCP check fails, then the video output will be shut down while the Anthem retries. And thus you can get a blue screen for a second or two during the retry and until the proper connection is re-established. As I said in my first reply, that's what the timing on your blue flashes sounds like. But since you are *NOT* seeing them with other sources, that can't be what's going on.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> One other thing to check: For each of your sources, select that source in the Anthem, then press and hold the "7" key until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up, then scroll to the Output panel and then down to the Frame Lock line, and confirm that Frame Lock = OFF for each of your sources.
> 
> 
> If Frame Lock = Auto is set for your Component 480i source, that could be part of the problem.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks, Bob.


Well I made it through another movie with no blue screen last night. Although I said I never saw it while watching the HR20, remember, I have only had it happen 4-5 times with the DVD over component. It is very annoying when watching a movie to have the bright blue screen come on while the movie is still playing in the backround. I also don't watch as many movies on the Satellite as i do on DVD.


I am not having THAT many issues right now, so I hesitate to update the software untill an actual release (non beta) comes out. Thanks for the help guys.


Sean


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> "I do get some audio "popping" sometimes when changing channels, and the occassional temporary blue screen, but it isn't horrible. I don't do a ton of channel surfing on my big screen, so I may stay with the HDMI connection intead of going to component. Especially if it means giving up anything in terms of SQ. Did I mention how much of an improvement there is in SQ even with cable!?!?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "



You owe it to yourself to try component & optical. The sound will be identical, although it's easy tio fool myself to think differently.


Agree with your recommendation of Ultralink HDMI Pro Platinum. Wm Phelps recommended them to me, and there is no better recommendation I could think of.


----------



## soapman72

Guys,



I called Anthem about the Blue Screen issue, and after a brief run down of some of the issues we covered here. They asked if I had anything stacked on top of the processor. As it turns out, I did have my NAD CD player on top of the Anthem. They suggested that I move it. I said no problem, I was thinking of getting rid of it anyway.


So out it went, I will see if that makes a difference. I heard about these Anthems running a little warm, but with a rack open on all sides, I didn't give the CD player much thought. After removing it, I did note all the vents cut into the top panel.......


Since that was the last of my issues, I am hoping for the best.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^ Glad to hear it's fixed...
> 
> 
> As a side note... I was at Ray's get together yesterday, and he was running the Sony BR player directly to his RS1.... when in 24f mode, and I believe with only AVC encoodes, it was stuttering.. no problems with these discs in 1080p/60, but it seems that some of this 24f issues may be player related also.. I know that the Sony and Pioneer BR players share alot, so I am curious as to what discs you have been looking at.. we checked "Open Season" and "Chicago" and they stuttered away in 24frame mode.
> 
> 
> I will be curious to see what Nick has to say about this...



The Sony player is known to have the 24f bug with certain codecs (AVC) which causes stuttering, and a fix is supposedly coming. The Pioneer is ROCK SOLID going directly to the RS1 at 1080p/24. Put the D2 in between, and with Frame Lock set to Auto, I was getting stuttering every one to two minutes, just as described by Randall (this was on the one occasion that I actually had frame lock working). This was using the same title...Casino Royale.


I will probably try Randall's suggestion of starting the movie before turning on the D2 to see if that helps it lock on to the 1080p/24 signal.


I'm also still wondering what the status is on fixing the overall 1080p/24 issue in terms of scaling/deinterlacing sources such as 1080i and 480i and converting to 1080p/24. Played with that some last night with cable and SD DVD, and there is noticeable stuttering.


----------



## JeffDL

Never posted picures so here is one. I am working on a new stand or equipment rack.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One thing I find interesting is that when the BDP-HD1 is connected to the projector directly, the RS1 reports vert freq of 47.96. When the D2 is connected it reports 48. I think this is just the way the D2 reports and is not related to the problem. Nick suggested that it could be an HDMI handshake issue. The handshake happens at regular intervals and not just one time. I will PM LEVESQUE.
> 
> 
> I'm using a 25 ft. Monoprice HDMI cable with no issues. 1080P/60 works perfect.
> 
> Thanks



Interesting, I don't specifically remember noticing that when I checked (on the one occasion I had Frame Lock working). I don't know that this difference should be dismissed too easily. Something is making the JVC show different readings. Did you tell this to Nick?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Never posted picures so here is one. I am working on a new stand or equipment rack.



I would work on getting that new stand or rack asap so you can get that equipment off the D2!


----------



## JeffDL

is it bad to stack? I have always have had stuff on top of my pre-amps. Never had a heat issue.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> is it bad to stack? I have always have had stuff on top of my pre-amps. Never had a heat issue.



Yes, in my opinion, it is bad to stack, especially on a high end piece like the D2. The pieces that I do stack are usually ones that are not operating at the same time (cable box on top of DVD player for example....but even that isn't ideal if you can help it). There have been discussions earlier in this thread regarding heat related issues with the D2.


You should try to give it it's own shelf if possible:


----------



## JeffDL

I was going to try and wedge a stand alone blu-ray player in there too. I need to find some sort of stand that will swallow that damn huge center. suggestions?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Jeff,

The D2 has a LOT more high speed electronics in there than your average pre-amp.


It needs room to breath. It needs the wide open spaces.


Don't just worry about your D2. Also worry about cooking whatever you've got sitting on top of it.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was going to try and wedge a stand alone blu-ray player in there too. I need to find some sort of stand that will swallow that damn huge center. suggestions?



You might try searching some other areas of the forum for a different stand, such as the Rear Projection TV section.


I would recommend, at a minimum, that you try to put some type of extension between the D2 and the components that are on top of it to increase the air flow (but it would be better to get them off the D2 entirely).


----------



## Randall Morton

Jeff,

I would be worried about heat issues with your setup. Seems like others have had heat related issues with the D2 and it does get quite hot. Looks like you are asking for trouble.










Rob,

I explained everything I know about the 24fps stuttering problem to Nick. He assured me that they will aquire a BDP HD1 and get the issue resolved. When I told him about the RS1 reporting different vert. freq. numbers he thought it may be a possible timing issue. This could be fixed with a Custom Resolution if you had the right numbers to plug in. He said they would try to get the numbers from JVC.


If you want to watch a Blu-ray 1080P/24fps through the D2, I think the best way is with the frame lock off. Set your Pioneer player for the 24p output and set No. 8 to 1080P/24. You still get the same stutter, but avoid the problems of locking in. It looks exactly the same. Then you need to change it back to 1080P/60 for your other sources.


Did you get everything else working right?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> I explained everything I know about the 24fps stuttering problem to Nick. He assured me that they will aquire a BDP HD1 and get the issue resolved. When I told him about the RS1 reporting different vert. freq. numbers he thought it may be a possible timing issue. This could be fixed with a Custom Resolution if you had the right numbers to plug in. He said they would try to get the numbers from JVC.



That's good to know. There are a fair number of us with this combo so it is good to see that they are going to attempt to get this worked out.



> Quote:
> If you want to watch a Blu-ray 1080P/24fps through the D2, I think the best way is with the frame lock off. Set your Pioneer player for the 24p output and set No. 8 to 1080P/24. You still get the same stutter, but avoid the problems of locking in. It looks exactly the same. Then you need to change it back to 1080P/60 for your other sources.



That is a doable work around, but it doesn't fix the problem. It sounds like you are having the exact same issues that I am though (won't lock onto the 1080p/24 signal well, and when it does you get stuttering). Of course there is no point in doing this work around anyway, since you are still going to get the stuttering.



> Quote:
> Did you get everything else working right?



Yep, the only other issue was my OSD and I think I have that resolved thanks to a couple of other very helpful members.










At this point my only issues are: 1)Frame Lock not locking onto the 1080p/24 signal 2) When it does, you get stuttering (no problem going straight to the RS1) 3) 1080p/24 conversion from 1080i or 480i etc. doesn't work, you get stuttering (we are all in the same boat here).


Another problem I have is not being able to send 1080p/60 to the RS1. I believe this is a cable issue, so I will be getting a new one. You are sending 1080p/60 to your RS1 from the D2 without issue, correct?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Never posted picures so here is one. I am working on a new stand or equipment rack.



GOOD LUCK with D2 overheating problems.


----------



## rudolpht

For any one doing the reload to defaults & reload again, remember to reset your OSD. This I think was corrected in latter betas, but that was one setting that wasn't captured and restored when writing saved settings back.


Rob's OSD issues reminded me of that.


Jeff,

Have you looked at Magnepane CC3 centers. 1) They sound great (but need subs in setup), 2) they could sit in front of the rack you don't need to see (with room for good planar acoustics). While they are only about 1/3rd my screen size (projected), should be a good accompaniment to your rack. I like your rack, you just need two of them stacked.


----------



## Randall Morton

Rob,

1080P/60 works fine for me. I think I had rather watch Blu-ray at 24fps with an occasional stutter that to watch it at 1080P/60.


Does anyone have 24fps working with anything else other than an HDDVD or Blu-ray disc? I will be surprised if anyone gets it working correctly anytime soon for an interlaced signal. Wouldn't you only get 12fps from a 1080i source?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 1080P/60 works fine for me. I think I had rather watch Blu-ray at 24fps with an occasional stutter that to watch it at 1080P/60.



Do you really see that much of an improvement with 1080p/24 vs 1080p/60? The whole point of using 1080p/24 is to reduce stutter from 3:2 pulldown. If you are actually adding stutter by using 1080p/24 because it isn't working correctly, it defeats the whole purpose.



> Quote:
> Does anyone have 24fps working with anything else other than an HDDVD or Blu-ray disc? I will be surprised if anyone gets it working correctly anytime soon for an interlaced signal. Wouldn't you only get 12fps from a 1080i source?



My understanding is that with film based material on HD-DVD's, it is encoded at 1080p/24 but my HD-DVD player only outputs 1080i. Theoretically, the VP should be able to put the original source "back together" to give you the 1080p/24 source even though it is receiving 1080i from the player.


Edit: I see that you said anything OTHER than HD-DVD or Blu-ray, and you may very well be correct in that regard.


So, what is the best resolution to use in the D2's output when feeding it 480i from SD DVD's to the RS1?


----------



## Catdaddy67

The lumagen HDQ I believe has this down. Dont know if the others are doing it right yet. I hope Anthem has this as one of their priorities.


----------



## Bill DePalma

just finished loading v1.11e on my avm50. It has done nothing to cure my sync issues with the AX2 & Bluray decks. I am able to get maybe 2-3 seconds of the deck's splash screen then my RS1 loses connection. I am having the same problem running all this to a Ruby, so it is not the display. I am also having horrible banding problems with 480i output into the anthem from an oppo deck. So far I am batting zero with this very expensive processor. I think they may have 720p down but not sure this unit or the D2 is really ready for 1080p. Very dissappointing.

Does anyone have a fully fuctioning 1080p chain of source and display thru hdmi working on their anthems?

Bill


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would work on getting that new stand or rack asap so you can get that equipment off the D2!



You are going to burn up that D2 having something on top of it.


The D2 needs lots of room to breath.


Michael


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you really see that much of an improvement with 1080p/24 vs 1080p/60? The whole point of using 1080p/24 is to reduce stutter from 3:2 pulldown. If you are actually adding stutter by using 1080p/24 because it isn't working correctly, it defeats the whole purpose.
> 
> 
> Edit: I see that you said anything OTHER than HD-DVD or Blu-ray, and you may very well be correct in that regard.
> 
> 
> So, what is the best resolution to use in the D2's output when feeding it 480i from SD DVD's to the RS1?




There is no good answer here except for it to be fixed. Don't give me 1080P/24 and then take it back. I'm thinking about it anyway. I may use an optical output for the audio and go straight to the RS1 from the Pioneer with HDMI until there is a solution.


I would probably try 1080i/60 and 1080p/60 and see which looked better. I don't think there would be a big difference so I would just leave it set to 1080p/60. Why not use the Pioneer for SD DVDs and output 1080P/60 to the D2?


----------



## 3Dfx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchacks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is this happening when simply watching a program, or when changing channels?
> 
> 
> If only during the channel changing, I believe, if running the S3 in native mode, the brief blue screen is common and is a result of resloution (channel) changing.



It occurs while watching TV, not during channel changes. The S3 is in native mode and frame lock is off for all layers.


Sidenote: I have noticed "Film Mode" (in the scaler menu) will flash between on and off while watching some channels. It does this regardless of whether or not a blue screen comes up.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It occurs while watching TV, not during channel changes. The S3 is in native mode and frame lock is off for all layers.
> 
> 
> Sidenote: I have noticed "Film Mode" (in the scaler menu) will flash between on and off while watching some channels. It does this regardless of whether or not a blue screen comes up.



Is this in component or HDMI? Sorry haven't followed all of the discourse.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill DePalma* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> just finished loading v1.11e on my avm50. It has done nothing to cure my sync issues with the AX2 & Bluray decks. I am able to get maybe 2-3 seconds of the deck's splash screen then my RS1 loses connection. I am having the same problem running all this to a Ruby, so it is not the display. I am also having horrible banding problems with 480i output into the anthem from an oppo deck. So far I am batting zero with this very expensive processor. I think they may have 720p down but not sure this unit or the D2 is really ready for 1080p. Very dissappointing.
> 
> Does anyone have a fully fuctioning 1080p chain of source and display thru hdmi working on their anthems?
> 
> Bill



I will let Bob address some of the more technical details, but I had similar issues until I set RGB vs YCrCb (two varieties) early on in the Anthem output.


----------



## Catdaddy67

Bill,


Its probably a cabling issue.


I had the same issue with signal dropping from my AVM50 to my RS1 with my 50" HDMI cable. A good test for you would be if your audio drops when your video signal does.


My 50' cable worked with my Ruby, my vantage, and direct from my components to the RS1 but coming out of the AVM50 no. When I switched to a 30' cable no more drops.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Never posted picures so here is one. I am working on a new stand or equipment rack.



Nice rack but you may experience overheat issue with the D2 having the player staked on it.


Before posting I didn't realized that 20 persons had commented on potential overheat.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you really see that much of an improvement with 1080p/24 vs 1080p/60? The whole point of using 1080p/24 is to reduce stutter from 3:2 pulldown. If you are actually adding stutter by using 1080p/24 because it isn't working correctly, it defeats the whole purpose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My understanding is that with film based material on HD-DVD's, it is encoded at 1080p/24 but my HD-DVD player only outputs 1080i. Theoretically, the VP should be able to put the original source "back together" to give you the 1080p/24 source even though it is receiving 1080i from the player.
> 
> 
> Edit: I see that you said anything OTHER than HD-DVD or Blu-ray, and you may very well be correct in that regard.
> 
> 
> So, what is the best resolution to use in the D2's output when feeding it 480i from SD DVD's to the RS1?



480i from the Elite player. To get best results turn on the auto cue correction feature of the D2.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is no good answer here except for it to be fixed. Don't give me 1080P/24 and then take it back. I'm thinking about it anyway. I may use an optical output for the audio and go straight to the RS1 from the Pioneer with HDMI until there is a solution.



I certainly agree with getting it fixed. I personally probably wouldn't use optical output for the audio since I believe that the advantage/improvement in SQ via uncompressed audio outweighs the advantage/improvement in PQ you get from 1080p/24. But yes, I want BOTH!



> Quote:
> I would probably try 1080i/60 and 1080p/60 and see which looked better. I don't think there would be a big difference so I would just leave it set to 1080p/60. Why not use the Pioneer for SD DVDs and output 1080P/60 to the D2?



You probably could, but it just seems like you would get the better processing from the D2 than what the Pioneer can do. 480i direct to the D2 should allow the D2 to do the processing (deinterlacing and scaling) vs the Pioneer.


I would think that most people who have 1080p displays would be sending the D2 480i, and then have the D2 sending a 1080p signal to the display.


Hopefully my new cable will arrive today so I can try 1080p/60.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You probably could, but it just seems like you would get the better processing from the D2 than what the Pioneer can do. 480i direct to the D2 should allow the D2 to do the processing (deinterlacing and scaling) vs the Pioneer.




Yes and it does perform a better job.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill DePalma* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> just finished loading v1.11e on my avm50. It has done nothing to cure my sync issues with the AX2 & Bluray decks. I am able to get maybe 2-3 seconds of the deck's splash screen then my RS1 loses connection. I am having the same problem running all this to a Ruby, so it is not the display. I am also having horrible banding problems with 480i output into the anthem from an oppo deck. So far I am batting zero with this very expensive processor. I think they may have 720p down but not sure this unit or the D2 is really ready for 1080p. Very dissappointing.
> 
> Does anyone have a fully fuctioning 1080p chain of source and display thru hdmi working on their anthems?
> 
> Bill



Bill, trying the test software was a necessary step. At this point the most likely culprits are faulty cables or a faulty Anthem. There are most definitely people who have 1080p working with the Anthem, but even some of the most experienced people have been surprised by how easy it is for cabling to screw things up.


Just give Anthem another call, let them know what happened with the V1.11e stuff and they'll take care of you.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes and it does perform a better job.



Why does it perform a better job when they are using the same processing chip? I haven't compared, but I am wondering where the difference is.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why does it perform a better job when they are using the same processing chip? I haven't compared, but I am wondering where the difference is.



They don't use the same processing chip.


We are talking about the Pioneer vs. the D2.


----------



## Randall Morton

I've been playing with custom resolutions but am not sure how it works. After loading a Custom Resolution do I just choose Custom Resolution in Menu 8 to switch to the new timings? Thanks


Rob,

Sorry, I guess I got my chips crossed. I always use my XA2 when playing SD and leave it outputting 1080P.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For those of you experimenting with setting the Anthem's Setup / Video Output to 1080p/24Hz, be aware of two things:


1) It is known that the timings for Anthem's built-in 1080p/24Hz are not working well with some displays. The symptom is severe stuttering, that doesn't go away, when playing 1080p/24 input to 1080p/24 output *WITH FRAME LOCK TURNED OFF*, i.e., when using the Anthem's built in idea of what the timings should be for 1080p/24Hz output. The workaround is to figure out a Custom Resolution setting set specific to your display and to enter that into the Anthem using Live Video Settings Editor. An example of such settings for the Sony Pearl is linked in the collection of links in the first post in this thread. 1080p/24Hz timings are apparently not quite standardized yet. Correct timings are not easy to figure out on your own. Check the video processors forum to see if someone has already determined proper timings for your display when using some other video processor and see if they transfer over to the Anthem. If you find correct Custom Resolution settings for a display, please post them here in this thread. This is really no different from discovering that some displays don't like the default "native" resolution timings built into the Anthem -- as for example the Panasonic panels that need their own 768p/60 Custom Resolution settings (again linked in the first post of this thread). Note that if you turn Frame Lock ON, you are no longer using only the Anthem's built in timings. Instead the frame rate timings are being transferred from the input to the output.


2) You do *NOT* want to view video rate content with /24Hz output from the Anthem. It won't look good at all. Again the most noticeable symptom will be severe stuttering. So if you decide you prefer to set the Anthem's Setup / Video Output to 1080p/24Hz -- or an equivalent Custom Resolution -- then you *SHOULD USE FRAME LOCK* for your *VIDEO* content sources to cause the frame rate to scoot back up to /60Hz while watching those sources. This is in fact how Frame Lock is curently described in the Anthem manual, except that it also suggests you can turn Frame Lock OFF if you know you are watching movie rate content embedded in an incoming video rate stream (i.e., while watching an HDTV movie). This would force the Anthem to do 1080i/60Hz input to 1080p/24Hz output conversion. Unfortuantely, that bit is not working correctly right now (known bug, Anthem's working on it). Despite that, if you have your Anthem video output set to 1080p/24Hz you *STILL* want to use Frame Lock = AUTO when watching video rate content.


To summarize: If you want the default video output set in the Anthem to be 1080p/24, then you may need to enter a Custom Resolution specific to your display. Whether or not that is true, if you want the default video output from the Anthem to be 1080p/24 then you should set Frame Lock = AUTO for all of your video rate sources. This would include non-movie programming on SDTV and HDTV, and whenever you are watching a regular TV show that has been transferred to disc. Until Anthem fixes their /60Hz to /24Hz conversion, you should also set Frame Lock = AUTO for movie sources that are sending /60Hz to the Anthem. This would include all standard DVD players for example.

--Bob


----------



## JeffDL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are going to burn up that D2 having something on top of it.
> 
> 
> The D2 needs lots of room to breath.
> 
> 
> Michael



I don't know about that. It is ice cold to the touch. the back right side is where the "hot" spot should be right? The rack is wide open on both sides and the back.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been playing with custom resolutions but am not sure how it works. After loading a Custom Resolution do I just choose Custom Resolution in Menu 8 to switch to the new timings? Thanks



Yes. Keep in mind that if you have Frame Lock = AUTO for a given input, your Custom Resolution timings may be altered by the timings of the input source.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't know about that. It is ice cold to the touch. the back right side is where the "hot" spot should be right? The rack is wide open on both sides and the back.



The hottest portion of the D2 will be on its top, from back to front along the side where the power cord plugs in. That's where the power supply is.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3Dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It occurs while watching TV, not during channel changes. The S3 is in native mode and frame lock is off for all layers.
> 
> 
> Sidenote: I have noticed "Film Mode" (in the scaler menu) will flash between on and off while watching some channels. It does this regardless of whether or not a blue screen comes up.



Film Mode simply indicates that the Anthem has detected movie rate content in the input. When watching TV, movie rate content (24 frames per second) is raised to video rate (30 frames per second) by periodically duplicating interlaced half frames (called fields) in a regular cadence. The Anthem detects this and alters its de-interlacing accordingly.


So it would be normal for Film Mode to change while watching TV as the various types of programming content change.


The Film Mode status indicator was not reporting correctly in V1.11. Apparently it has been fixed in V1.11e.


------------------------------------------


You should talk to Anthem about your blue flashes while watching the S3. It could be heat or cable related, or they may have a newer version of software for you to try.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike

D1 Question - popping noise with change from analog to digital on the same input source.


When I change channels from one that has digital audio (digital coaxial feed) to one that has analog audio (2-channel feed) on my Time-Warner SA8300HD DVR I sometimes get an audible (rather loud) pop from my left front speaker.


If I switch the DVR to "analog only" then I do not get the pop when changing channels, so I have narrowed down the problem to switching from an analog to a digital feed while using the same device.


I do not have this problem when changing from a device using an analog source (CD player) to one that is using a digital source (DVD player). Only when changing the type of audio feed on the same source. I also do not get this pop when changing from analog to digital when using my CD or DVD player.


I have tried the three different settings on the muting for the input, but it has no impact.


It does not always happen, but is quite annoying and I am concerned about what could cause this to happen or what damage could happen to my speaker. Any thoughts? (This did not happen with my previous pre/pro).


FYI: I do have the latest D1 software version 1.12.


Also, I have not tried a different DVR since I have many programs recorded I have not yet watched and am not ready to trade it out at the local cable service center.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mike,

That sounds like an 8300 problem. Trying a different 8300 would certainly make sense.


I believe the 8300 can be set to send analog audio program content out its digital feed, so you should be able to use the coax for both digital audio programming and analog audio programming. The analog programming will be sent over the digital coax output as 1 or 2 channels of PCM.


Try turning off AutoDig for that input in the Anthem and see if you can set the 8300 to send everything over the coax feed.


It is also possible that you have ground loop power coming in on your cable feed and the popping is a symptom of that.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

Bob,

Thanks for the info. I still don't understand how to enter a custom resolution. If I enter Anthem's default setting for 1080P/60 as a custom resolution(through Load Standard) and then change No. 8 in the Setup Menu to Custom Resolution, I get an out of range error with nothing displayed. This is when I am already viewing a source at 1080P/60.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The hottest portion of the D2 will be on its top, from back to front along the side where the power cord plugs in. That's where the power supply is.
> 
> --Bob



One thing I forgot to mention, and I'm only relying on my memory, but my new D2 does not seem to run as hot as my previous one that died. I remember being a little surprised at how warm my first unit was when running compared to my amplifier.


larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for the info. I still don't understand how to enter a custom resolution. If I enter Anthem's default setting for 1080P/60 as a custom resolution(through Load Standard) and then change No. 8 in the Setup Menu to Custom Resolution, I get an out of range error with nothing displayed. This is when I am already viewing a source at 1080P/60.



From the collection of links in the first post in this thread, here are DRHANKZ' instructions for transferring your chosen Custom Resolution to the Anthem and then selecting it for use:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9221154 


--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

Thanks for the Link Bob,

That is exactly what I did. Maybe Anthem's custom resolutions found in Advanced Video Settings aren't the same as the ones you can choose in Menu 8. When I load the 1080P/60 timings into custom resolution and choose custome resolution, I get an out of range error with no picture. I then reload the 1080P/60 output resolution in menu 8 and all is working again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Randall,

What version of software are you using, and are you using the Live Video Settings Editor that came with the install kit for that software?

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

Bob,

I'm using the LVSE I downloaded from the website(1.11).

I upgraded the 1.11 firmware to 1.11e but Nick did not send a new LVSE and I assumed the 1.11 LVSE would work correctly with 1.11e. I've used it to load some custom gamma curves with no problem. Is there another one to match my firmware?


edit

I just talked to Nick and he is sending me the g version of the editor. He also said it was very unlikely I could do anything to cure the problem and that they have ordered a BDP HD1 and will be working on this problem as soon as they get it.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Got my new HDMI cable.


Crossing fingers..........


----------



## drsimnal

So, last night was the first opportunity to get the D2 set up. It was MUCH easier than I anticipated. I only have component going in right now, from my DBS HD DVR (E*622). I need to buy some DVI-D-HDMI adaptors for everything as most of my cable runs are DVI. I can't believe how many options this thing has for literally everything. It's so cool. I am really excited about it, and can't wait to get all my video hooked up.

Andrea


----------



## Bill DePalma

Bob-

It is good to know there are people with 1080p up and running. If it is a cable issue, perhaps anthem should advise what cable brands ARE worrking. I am currently using only 3 foot lengths of BETTER CABLE brand HDMI cable. These are expensive and thick cables. Not to say they are still not the problem, but if they are, what cables brands are working.

Interested to hear if Rob's new cables did the trick. My other larger concern is banding, which I seem to be the only one here experiencing that issue. I wll try the RGB only route this evening. Thanks for everyone's input.

Bill


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Good News! Bad News!


Good News: got my new HDMI cable and connected it from the D2 to the RS1. I now have 1080p/60 working!







Confirmed this with both 1080i from my 8300, as well as 480i from my Pioneer Elite player. 480i to the D2 and 1080p/60 to the RS1 looks pretty good! I'm pleased (and relieved) by this.










More Good News: Frame Lock with 1080p/24 seems to be working again. Not sure why a new HDMI output cable would affect this, or even if it did. But it was definitely working and locked on as confirmed by the info screen.


Bad News: Even with Frame Lock working and sending 1080p/24 to the RS1, I was getting a stutter in the picture about once every minute. Haven't had time to change to 1080p/60 to see if the stutter disappears, but I would guess that it would (I would just need to turn Frame Lock to off to di this, correct?).


More Bad News: My OSD issue has come up again. Not sure what is going on. Checked all the setting again, and they were correct. Sometimes the OSD would pop up on the screen after being in the Setup menu for about a minute or more. Very confusing.










Good News: I have been in contact with Nick, and he has confirmed that he has ordered a Pioneer Elite BD player to see what is going on with the stuttering at 1080p/24. They also have the JVC projector, so it will be the exact combo that both Randall and I are using. Nick, if you read this, thanks!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill DePalma* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob-
> 
> It is good to know there are people with 1080p up and running. If it is a cable issue, perhaps anthem should advise what cable brands ARE worrking. I am currently using only 3 foot lengths of BETTER CABLE brand HDMI cable. These are expensive and thick cables. Not to say they are still not the problem, but if they are, what cables brands are working.
> 
> Interested to hear if Rob's new cables did the trick. My other larger concern is banding, which I seem to be the only one here experiencing that issue. I wll try the RGB only route this evening. Thanks for everyone's input.
> 
> Bill



My new cable did do the trick (see above post).


If you are only using 3 foot lengths of Better Cable brand cables, I don't know if that is the problem. It shouldn't be. But to clarify: how long is the cable you are using from the D2 to your display? That is the one I replaced (and is the most important).


My new cable is the 22 gauge HDMI from Monoprice.com. I went with them because 1)others are using it and confirmed that 1080p/60 works 2) They have a money back guarantee if it doesn't work, 3) Great price!


----------



## Randall Morton

Rob,

Glad to see things getting better.


I got my custom resolutions working after Nick sent me the 1.11g version of LVSE. I entered a new 24P resolution and it looks promising. I only watched about 5 to 10 minutes of Deja Vu but I didn't see any stuttering or problems. I wanted to test more but had to leave. The RS1 was reporting 47.96 through the D2. I had frame lock off outputting the custom 1080/24. Even if there are problems it was fun testing. Also I want to see if I can get it to work with a custom 1080P/60 with the frame lock on auto.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The lumagen HDQ I believe has this down. Dont know if the others are doing it right yet. I hope Anthem has this as one of their priorities.



My Lumagen HDP does (did) exactly the same thing with 1080p24 output to my Sony Pearl. The HDQ and HDP are the same as far as deinterlacing goes.


1080p24sf output did work well though without stuttering.


I don't seem to be bothered by judder very much so 1080p60 works fine for me for now (but I would like to see 1080p24 actually work so I could make the choice as to what looks best).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bill,

The thickness of the cables and their short length is no guarantee they will work with 1080p/60Hz. The cable has to have been engineered and tested for that high bandwidth signal.


We've had good reports here from folks who have purchased 1080p/60Hz labeled cable from Ultralink, Blue Jeans, and Monoprice.


That said, I suspect your problem is more likely an Anthem hardware problem. The cables are just one other possibility.


-------------------------------------------------------


Rob,

You need to talk to Nick about your OSD problem. Something weird is definitely going on. In the interim try this:


*Go to Setup / Displays & Timeout. Make some changes. Back out of Setup. Go back into Setup / Displays & Timeout. Change things back to the proper (default) settings. Back out of Setup. Go back into Setup and see if it now works.


My theory is that, for whatever reason, your Anthem is not reading these particular OSD Setup entries correctly. This could be corruption at power up, although I would expect that to show up when you go into the menu to display them as well. But if making a change causes it to work again, that may help Nick isolate what is going wrong.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> Glad to see things getting better.
> 
> 
> I got my custom resolutions working after Nick sent me the 1.11g version of LVSE. I entered a new 24P resolution and it looks promising. I only watched about 5 to 10 minutes of Deja Vu but I didn't see any stuttering or problems. I wanted to test more but had to leave. The RS1 was reporting 47.96 through the D2. I had frame lock off outputting the custom 1080/24. Even if there are problems it was fun testing. Also I want to see if I can get it to work with a custom 1080P/60 with the frame lock on auto.



NICE!










This sounds promising. Especially if the RS1 was reporting 47.96 instead of 48 as it does with Frame Lock = Auto. Very interesting indeed. What settings did you use? I assume you specifically indicated "47.96" as part of the custom resolution?


Edit: Bob, I have told Nick about the OSD issue. As you said, he confirmed this is the first report he has had re an OSD problem. I have to leave in a bit, but will try a few more things later this evening.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My Lumagen HDP does (did) exactly the same thing with 1080p24 output to my Sony Pearl. The HDQ and HDP are the same as far as deinterlacing goes.
> 
> 
> 1080p24sf output did work well though without stuttering.
> 
> 
> I don't seem to be bothered by judder very much so 1080p60 works fine for me for now (but I would like to see 1080p24 actually work so I could make the choice as to what looks best).



For those who don't know, 1080p/24 has odd and even lines intermixed in each frame -- a "normal" progressive image. 1080p/24sf (sf=segmented frame) has odd lines together followed by even lines in each frame, but where both represent the same instant in time (as opposed to a normal interlaced image that presents the data in the same order but with an inherent time delay between what the odd and even lines are recording). The information content is identical in "p" and "psf", but some displays may have less trouble dealing with one incoming data format than with the other.


From looking at the (undocumented) entries available in the Anthem Custom Resolution stuff, I *THINK* it is possible to set up an Anthem Custom Resolution that sends out segmented frame, but I'm not sure about that, and I don't have a /24 capable display that I can experiment with.

--Bob


----------



## JeffDL

OK so you guys got me thinking and I ordered the matching Boltz equipment rack to go with my TV stand which I will be putting back together to its original configuration. Something like this picture but I am going to put the smaller shelf on the bottom so my center channel won't be on the floor.

this is a really old picture not my original HT but close to it...









so the smaller shelf on the bottom with the 360 and PS3 then the larger shelf with the center post removed and my huge Paradigm 690 there and finally the TV on top. On a bonus side note the Boltz equipment stand was on sale!!!


----------



## Joe C5

Hi, Anyone have any issues with the Pioneer BDP-HD1 audio? The first time I turn the Pioneer on I have to insert then eject a disk before I get audio. From then on it is ok until I power it off. Video is fine. I usually turn the TV to the Anthem input, turn on the Anthem, wait for it to power up, then turn on the Pioneer. Happens every time. If nobody else has this issue, I will investigate settings again to see if I can find something amiss. Thanks in advance...


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Edit: Bob, I have told Nick about the OSD issue. As you said, he confirmed this is the first report he has had re an OSD problem. I have to leave in a bit, but will try a few more things later this evening.



Not to sound condescending, but you are only using the OSD through Zone 1, S+V, correct? I know you mentioned two HD outputs (plasma & projector), so just making sure only Zone 1.


Tim


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not to sound condescending, but you are only using the OSD through Zone 1, S+V, correct? I know you mentioned two HD outputs (plasma & projector), so just making sure only Zone 1.
> 
> 
> Tim



Tim, I only have one output, and that's to my RS1 projector. I don't have a plasma. I think you must have confused my Pioneer Elite BD player for a plasma.


And yes, I am only using it through Zone 1 (Main). This was the first thing that Nick wanted to confirm as well.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim, I only have one output, and that's to my RS1 projector. I don't have a plasma. I think you must have confused my Pioneer Elite BD player for a plasma.



oops, I thought you had a RS-1 & a Pio FHD1. Someone else must then (I have a BDP too, so that wouldn't have thrown me, but calling it an HD1 may have







). I guess you couldn't have purchased all of the best in class toys at once (only most of them).


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> oops, I thought you had a RS-1 & a Pio FHD1. Someone else must then (I have a BDP too, so that wouldn't have thrown me, but calling it an HD1 may have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I guess you couldn't have purchased all of the best in class toys at once (only most of them).



Well, the full model number for the Pioneer Elite BD player is BDP-HD1. Yes, it does get confusing.


----------



## Randall Morton

Looks like we will have to wait for Nick to get the BDP-HD1 for a 24fps solution without stutter. The custom resolutions I've tried work different but I'm not sure they are better. The stutter is more random but is still there.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks like we will have to wait for Nick to get the BDP-HD1 for a 24fps solution without stutter. The custom resolutions I've tried work different but I'm not sure they are better. The stutter is more random but is still there.



Keep trying!


----------



## Randall Morton

I would, but I don't really think it is a timing issue. I think it has something to do with the HDMI handshake. Sometimes the stutters are very subtle and if there is motion when the stutter occurs, it can be hard to recognize. That is probably the reason it seems like I can watch several minutes without a problem. It also seems like some of the stutters are much less severe. When the severe ones happen it is easy to see.


----------



## TreborS

If I hook all my audio/video sources to the Anthem AVM 50 (hdmi, comp video + optical, comp video + digi coax).. what's the best way to send the audio to my Yamaha RX-V2700? I don't have any amps other than my receiver.


I assume the AVM 50 does all the video/audio switching, outputs the sound to the receiver, the receiver stays on the same input all the time. Am I correct in this?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would, but I don't really think it is a timing issue. I think it has something to do with the HDMI handshake. Sometimes the stutters are very subtle and if there is motion when the stutter occurs, it can be hard to recognize. That is probably the reason it seems like I can watch several minutes without a problem. It also seems like some of the stutters are much less severe. When the severe ones happen it is easy to see.



This is exactly what I see as well.


In other news: my OSD problem with the Setup menu is not resolved. Currently I am only getting a black and white version of it, and I can't highlight the menu I want to enter. Made sure I was using "main". Changed inputs. Changed a few settings and backed out. Nothing helped.


----------



## Fishysan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In other news: my OSD problem with the Setup menu is not resolved. Currently I am only getting a black and white version of it, and I can't highlight the menu I want to enter. Made sure I was using "main". Changed inputs. Changed a few settings and backed out. Nothing helped.



Biiizzzaaare.. Rob.


Loving mine so far.. despite minor issues (it's a complex world!)


Nick sent me 1.11e to see if it will solve my 1080i input over component, no clue yet what to do about the HTPC not recognizing the D2 - might have to get a DVI Detective, not sure yet. Maybe a new new vid card might work, I might trade in two cards to get a newer one. (running x1900xt right now)


Nick was kind enough to also forewarn me that the PS3 might not like v1.11e and such, so I'm not 100% sure I want to upgrade yet unless I can rollback to v1.11 as the PS3 and the HD DVD players are more important for now than 1080i over component for the xbox, etc.


However, I might need it if I switch my 8300HD to component to get around HDCP issues with remote usage over coax (channel 3 old school!) - my wife uses the PVR for a remote TV. Stupidly the 8300HD considers coax output an HDCP threat!!! Nothing to do with the D2, but that might force me to upgrade to 1.11e & risk PS3 playback.


But I must say I love the configuration options, the scaler side, and all with the D2 - brilliant!


For my HD-A2 I'm using DVD1 for 1.78 aspect, DVD2 for 1.85 (minor vertical stretch and minor horizontal crop to maintain aspect), DVD3 for 2.35 (full vertical stretch) and DVD4 for 2.40 (full vertical stretch and minor horizontal crop to maintain aspect).


And then using TV1-4 with my PS3 with the same aspect based config using the "copy from" thing in setup then simply change HDMI input & name.. love it. Of course doing it from Live Config would have been even easier, but I like how it's quite dooable without.


Of course now I need my RS1 back so I can hook up my CIH lens & such. Can't wait!


Ciao.


----------



## Fishysan

PS: forgot to ask specifically if there are a number of you *using v1.11e with a PS3* and not having any problems? As soon as I find out I can roll back I'm trying v1.11e.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TreborS* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I hook all my audio/video sources to the Anthem AVM 50 (hdmi, comp video + optical, comp video + digi coax).. what's the best way to send the audio to my Yamaha RX-V2700? I don't have any amps other than my receiver.
> 
> 
> I assume the AVM 50 does all the video/audio switching, outputs the sound to the receiver, the receiver stays on the same input all the time. Am I correct in this?



To make the best use of the AVM50 you should connect the 6ch analog (or 8ch if your receiver can handle it or send sub output direct to sub) outputs to the receiver and put the receiver in "direct mode" so it does not process the incoming audio (sent direct to amplifier section). If you can't do that you're "crippling" the audio from the AVM50. Get a multichannel amp ASAP.










larry


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good News! Bad News!
> 
> 
> Good News: got my new HDMI cable and connected it from the D2 to the RS1. I now have 1080p/60 working!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Confirmed this with both 1080i from my 8300, as well as 480i from my Pioneer Elite player. 480i to the D2 and 1080p/60 to the RS1 looks pretty good! I'm pleased (and relieved) by this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More Good News: Frame Lock with 1080p/24 seems to be working again. Not sure why a new HDMI output cable would affect this, or even if it did. But it was definitely working and locked on as confirmed by the info screen.
> 
> 
> Bad News: Even with Frame Lock working and sending 1080p/24 to the RS1, I was getting a stutter in the picture about once every minute. Haven't had time to change to 1080p/60 to see if the stutter disappears, but I would guess that it would (I would just need to turn Frame Lock to off to di this, correct?).
> 
> 
> More Bad News: My OSD issue has come up again. Not sure what is going on. Checked all the setting again, and they were correct. Sometimes the OSD would pop up on the screen after being in the Setup menu for about a minute or more. Very confusing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good News: I have been in contact with Nick, and he has confirmed that he has ordered a Pioneer Elite BD player to see what is going on with the stuttering at 1080p/24. They also have the JVC projector, so it will be the exact combo that both Randall and I are using. Nick, if you read this, thanks!



Cool to see that you now got a stable of 1080p60 setup with the D2 and RS1. NOw lets Anthem come up with a solution to stabilize 1080p24 through the D2.


----------



## ANSEK

I am on my PDA and can't search the thread. I am heading over after work to order a AVM50 or D2. Which way should I go? Is the D2 worth the additional $2K.


----------



## Mark Lem

OK guys I appreciate your thoughts and expertise in this thread.


Talked to my local dealer and he gave me what seem like pretty good prices on an AVM50 or D2. The D2 would be $1700 more. Use will be 80% HT-20% Music.


I am awaiting a JVC RS1 pj, and will be shooting on a 122" wide 2.35:1 screen. Haven't decided HD or BD, but will have one of them. Warner HD cable is my other source.



Torn between the AVM50 ort D2 for my application. I could get the AVM50 and use the $1700 towards a high end touch screen universal remote (need a universal remote eventually), but OTOH could spend the $ on a D2 if there is a real upgrade path future for it over the AVM50 and get a cheaper remote.


I've read a lot of this thread and am concerned about what seems to be buggy firmware. Am I being


Thoughts? Feel free to PM me as well. I thank you in advance


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishysan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Nick sent me 1.11e to see if it will solve my 1080i input over component, no clue yet what to do about the HTPC not recognizing the D2 - might have to get a DVI Detective, not sure yet. Maybe a new new vid card might work, I might trade in two cards to get a newer one. (running x1900xt right now)
> 
> Ciao.



Are you going from DVI to HDMI with the PC? The DVI Detective will not help establish a connection. Once you make the connection it works great to maintain it when switching sources. I had to have my PC source selected and boot the PC to establish a connection. Without the detective if I switched sources I would lose the PC connection and would have to reboot again.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mike,
> 
> That sounds like an 8300 problem. Trying a different 8300 would certainly make sense.
> 
> 
> I believe the 8300 can be set to send analog audio program content out its digital feed, so you should be able to use the coax for both digital audio programming and analog audio programming. The analog programming will be sent over the digital coax output as 1 or 2 channels of PCM.
> 
> 
> Try turning off AutoDig for that input in the Anthem and see if you can set the 8300 to send everything over the coax feed.
> 
> 
> It is also possible that you have ground loop power coming in on your cable feed and the popping is a symptom of that.
> 
> --Bob



I set the D1 to only receive the digital signal and not switch to the analog. No change, still have the popping.


The 8300HD has two settings for audio out: Two-channel only and dolby digital. When it is set in two-channel only it provides a 2 channel signal for all channels. When set to dolby digital it sends the 5.1 signal for those channels that provide the 5.1 signal and a 2-channel signal for those that don't. The popping only occurs when I have the audio out set to dolby digital and can occur when I switch between two digital cable channels that have different audio signals, but it always occurs when I switch between a digital and analog channel.


My next step will be to switch out the 8300HD.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Fishysan

I figured I'd chime in for this one this time, save the regulars saying this..










As people have said, a lot of discussion goes on about "bugs" because people are looking to solve problems, and there's more happy people trying to work these things out and posting than people just saying "it's great" over and over. Not much to talk about when it's just working.










The point to remember is it's a complex piece surrounded by buggy sources. The whole HDMI thing is a mess. (and throw HDCP in there too.. ugh)


Cable/satellite boxes are generally crap, and cause problems..


HD DVD & BluRay are very new and also buggy.


Every manufacturer out there has implemented HDMI differently and often incorrectly.


Everything has software now so that products can be shipped before they are finished and we are forced to update. Anthem fortunately is doing that though so they can change and accommodate all these other devices out there that are moving targets.


A processor ( AVM50 or D2 ) is stuck in the middle trying to make sense of all this and overcome all the problems that other devices have and connect all the dots while accounting for all the flake factor, etc. etc.


I'm surprised any of our new stuff works at all it's so buggered!










But it's fun - and when it's all working it's sweeeeet.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am on my PDA and can't search the thread. I am heading over after work to order a AVM50 or D2. Which way should I go? Is the D2 worth the additional $2K.



Well, D2 owners will say yes, and AVM-50 owners will say no.


Plus, any D2 owners from last year didn't even have the choice (AVM-50 wasn't out). It was D2 or nothing.


D2 has an extra DSP chip that is for future enhancements such as room EQ. Currently it is unused, so you're paying for some future potential.


I think that the audio section is a bit more high-end on the D2, but the video processing is the same.


So it comes down to - do you want to spend $2K on *maybe* improved audio - subject to ALL the other equipment in the chain? Plus potential audio enhancements in the future?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Lem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK guys I appreciate your thoughts and expertise in this thread.
> 
> 
> Talked to my local dealer and he gave me what seem like pretty good prices on an AVM50 or D2. The D2 would be $1700 more. Use will be 80% HT-20% Music.
> 
> 
> I've read a lot of this thread and am concerned about what seems to be buggy firmware. Am I being ...



Based on your requirements (80% HT) you might want to go with the AVM-50. The D2 offers a bit higher end audio (imperceptible to many) and future enhancements using it's second DSP chip (AVM-50 has one). Video features are identical.


The reason you read about buggy firmware - Anthem is commited to updating the firmware, so there is avid interest in testing it and reporting on it. So you end up with a lot of chatter about this component and that component and HDMI etc.


I guess you must have missed our mascot, the Trampoline Man?


The Anthem processors frankly push the envelope so far that there is bound to be a lot of odd stuff happening. There really isn't a better choice for the capabilities. You can either jump in now, or wait 2 years until all this becomes mainstream.


The nice thing is that Anthem is very responsive to their customers. That has made me more comfortable with my investment.


----------



## JeffDL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishysan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> PS: forgot to ask specifically if there are a number of you *using v1.11e with a PS3* and not having any problems? As soon as I find out I can roll back I'm trying v1.11e.



I am running 1.11e with PS3 and have seen no issues what so ever. I also needed the e code to solve my 1080i issue through component from my cable box. e code had been the magic code for me XA2 and PS3 passing 1080p with no issues.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So it comes down to - do you want to spend $2K on *maybe* improved audio - subject to ALL the other equipment in the chain? Plus potential audio enhancements in the future?



It is more than "maybe".... The D2 audio improvement are significantly better but you need to have a good system to enjoy and appreciate the benefice. The room EQ is a big plus too.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is more than "maybe".... The D2 audio improvement are significantly better but you need to have a good system to enjoy and appreciate the benefice. The room EQ is a big plus too.



Yes, having not experienced it myself, and knowing that the rest of the components will affect the perceived improvements, I felt I needed to qualify my statement.


In my case, I was an audiophile before becoming a videophile - so top notch audio is high priority for me. I am actually glad that the AVM-50 wasn't available last spring, or else I might have gone with that. I'm super interested in the room EQ - combining that with some room treatments.


----------



## Mark Lem

Thanks fishy, gdc, tolstoi...


I know the folks here are as critical as they get, so I wasn't sure if the buggy posts were minor or they prevented picture and audio from going through. Fishy, didn't think about the D2 (AVM50) being in the middle of the mess- thanks for pointing that out and makes my thought process more clear.


I have B&W 803s, accompanying center and surrounds (please not trying to start a side thread by stating this), with separate 7x300w amp power, so that's what a D2/AVM50 would be sending audio to. Room is dedicated room 14x21, front wall 1 inch acoustic treatments over it's entirety, acoustic panels at first reflection points, base traps in rear corners. Does my situation sound like you would hear a difference between the D2 & AVM50 in my room?


Cannot audition either the D2 or AVM50 at home, so no way to really tell. Some of the posts have alluded to the upgradability of the D2 as a benefit, so I guess I'm debating as to whether $1700 is a worthy investment down the road or not...


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Lem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks fishy, gdc, tolstoi...
> 
> 
> I know the folks here are as critical as they get, so I wasn't sure if the buggy posts were minor or they prevented picture and audio from going through. Fishy, didn't think about the D2 (AVM50) being in the middle of the mess- thanks for pointing that out and makes my thought process more clear.
> 
> 
> I have B&W 803s, accompanying center and surrounds (please not trying to start a side thread by stating this), with separate 7x300w amp power, so that's what a D2/AVM50 would be sending audio to. Room is dedicated room 14x21, front wall 1 inch acoustic treatments over it's entirety, acoustic panels at first reflection points, base traps in rear corners. Does my situation sound like you would hear a difference between the D2 & AVM50 in my room?
> 
> 
> Cannot audition either the D2 or AVM50 at home, so no way to really tell. Some of the posts have alluded to the upgradability of the D2 as a benefit, so I guess I'm debating as to whether $1700 is a worthy investment down the road or not...



With the B&W 803 you will hear improvement provide by the D2. Which brand and model of amp are you using?


Yes the D2 will have a better upgrade path. Anthem is apparently working on the D3. What it will include I really don't know.


----------



## DSNORD

For what it's worth-


My post from last week describes my problems with a new D2 and AVM50 going into my home system upgrade. They would not pass 1080i although I could do 720p in any form. NuTech the regional distibutor trouble shot them for an hour with Anthem Friday. Both are defective and going to be replaced. They could not figure out why they behaved as described but determined the fault was inside them and not with the rest of my system.


My dealer called me today having just discussed things with Anthem this morning. He said my units were shipped with the Gennum 9350 board. This board can NOT handle the bandwidth required for the 1080p protocol. As of 4/28, the Gennum 9531 board is being used. It WILL handle up to 2000p protocols for the future. I am being FedExed new units with the new boards already tested to work right with the latest software.


Does this answer a lot of people's questions now? Does this sound right?


Scott


----------



## ANSEK

I'm in a similar boat. I have all Axiom speakers (M80's floors, VP150 center, and QS8's surround). Will buy an A5 to go along with my choice of pre_proc. I'm leaninf AVM50 but can be swayed.


----------



## Mark Lem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSNORD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For what it's worth-
> 
> 
> My post from last week describes my problems with a new D2 and AVM50 going into my home system upgrade. They would not pass 1080i although I could do 720p in any form. NuTech the regional distibutor trouble shot them for an hour with Anthem Friday. Both are defective and going to be replaced. They could not figure out why they behaved as described but determined the fault was inside them and not with the rest of my system.
> 
> 
> My dealer called me today having just discussed things with Anthem this morning. He said my units were shipped with the Gennum 9350 board. This board can NOT handle the bandwidth required for the 1080p protocol. As of 4/28, the Gennum 9531 board is being used. It WILL handle up to 2000p protocols for the future. I am being FedExed new units with the new boards already tested to work right with the latest software.
> 
> 
> Does this answer a lot of people's questions now? Does this sound right?
> 
> 
> Scott



Very timely for me as I am about to order either an AVM50 or D2 tomorrow. Sounds like I need to have the dealer confirm that it has the Gennum 9531 board?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I seriously doubt the chip change story has been properly explained. The two chips just aren't that different and there are plenty of current owners who are using 1080p/60Hz with the original chip.


At most I suspect it is a case of Anthem getting a bad batch of boards.

--Bob


----------



## Fishysan

Bob, anyone else, do you know whether we can go backwards in versions?


AKA if I try v1.11e and have trouble, can I go back to v1.11 ?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am running 1.11e with PS3 and have seen no issues what so ever. I also needed the e code to solve my 1080i issue through component from my cable box. e code had been the magic code for me XA2 and PS3 passing 1080p with no issues.



Thanks Jeff - I want to try it for sure then.


Thanks!


----------



## drhankz

Others have already answered this question very

well. VIDEO is the SAME in both units. The DACs

are better in the D2 and the 2nd DSP is currently

idle waiting for some future upgrade from Anthem.


The decision really comes down 100% to your AUDIO

chain beyond the Pre-Pro.


If your AMPs and Speakers are top notch - go with

the D2.


If the rest of your chain is not top notch - but you

someday plan to upgrade - then go with the D2.

When the rest of the chain is upgraded - then the

AVM50 becomes the weak link.


If your audio chain is NOT TOP NOTCH and you

have no plans to upgrade - by all means go with

the AVM50.


I hope that logic helps.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Fishysan,

You can go back, *BUT* a number of folks have had problems with the software install application itself for V1.10 and V1.11. These were fixed in roughly V1.11c. The problems are related to how the installer app talks to the Anthem and so it depends on the computer you are using and whether you are trying to use a USB to Serial adapter for example.


So there is a smallish risk that attemtping a V1.11 install will fail for you. If the install works then you will have a good V1.11 software set even though you are backing up from V1.11e.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSNORD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My dealer called me today having just discussed things with Anthem this morning. He said my units were shipped with the Gennum 9350 board. This board can NOT handle the bandwidth required for the 1080p protocol. As of 4/28, the Gennum 9531 board is being used. It WILL handle up to 2000p protocols for the future. I am being FedExed new units with the new boards already tested to work right with the latest software.
> 
> 
> Does this answer a lot of people's questions now? Does this sound right?
> 
> 
> Scott



I agree with Bob - *PURE BS* from your dealer.

He is trying to impress you with Chaff.


I have been running 1080p with my D2 for a year. ROCK SOLID.


It makes 100% logic that Anthem would switch over to the

9351 - BECAUSE the 9350 is not being manufactured any more.

The Specifications are the same for both chips. The Power

Dissipation for the 9351 is significantly lower - always a good

thing.


----------



## Fishysan

Thanks Bob!


I decided to not go the USB route and bought a serial cable last night, but can't easily fish it through the wall. Oh well. I'll bring a PC into the room connect it directly to the projector as a display (having disconnected all HDMI wires from the D2) and update it. Hope for the best..


I also have a query in with Nick, so I'll see what he says about the other issues.


Just can't wait till all the pieces are inline! ( new CIH lens, RS1 & the D2 in action! )


Thanks.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Fishysan,
> 
> You can go back, *BUT* a number of folks have had problems with the software install application itself for V1.10 and V1.11. These were fixed in roughly V1.11c. The problems are related to how the installer app talks to the Anthem and so it depends on the computer you are using and whether you are trying to use a USB to Serial adapter for example.
> 
> 
> So there is a smallish risk that attempting a V1.11 install will fail for you. If the install works then you will have a good V1.11 software set even though you are backing up from V1.11e.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Fishysan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you going from DVI to HDMI with the PC? The DVI Detective will not help establish a connection. Once you make the connection it works great to maintain it when switching sources. I had to have my PC source selected and boot the PC to establish a connection. Without the detective if I switched sources I would lose the PC connection and would have to reboot again.



Woah - I'd missed this, thank god I just did a search about HTPC again.. Thanks Randall. That's unfortunate!! Glad I spotted this as I might have ordered a Detective for nothing.


I thought of trying again making sure that it was selected on the D2 then booting. I thought I tried that but I can't remember 100% I had the HTPC selection on the D2.


Also, I thought I could try with the HDCP repeating thingy set on so that maybe EDID info will pass through the D2 to the projector and back to the PC..














but not likely .. So not sure yet how to get the HTPC to work via HDMI.


I had the HTPC going through component (only at 720p until I upgrade to v1.11e to fix my 1080i issue with component) and it worked OK. Obviously I want 1080p via digital..


I'll try what you suggested tonight.


Thanks.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree with Bob - *PURE BS* from your dealer.
> 
> He is trying to impress you with Chaff.
> 
> 
> I have been running 1080p with my D2 for a year. ROCK SOLID.
> 
> 
> It makes 100% logic that Anthem would switch over to the
> 
> 9351 - BECAUSE the 9350 is not being manufactured any more.
> 
> The Specifications are the same for both chips. The Power
> 
> Dissipation for the 9351 is significantly lower - always a good
> 
> thing.



I agree with Bob and DrHankz 100%.


One of the dealers that I was talking to regarding a D2 purchase did something similar to this. He indicated that it would be about 3 or 4 weeks to get a D2, but it would be worth the wait because these new D2's "have a new upgraded chip in them". He implied that it would have improved performance, and even said _that it would probably support HDMI 1.3_!!!










I'm sure the "new chip" he was referring to is the Gennum 9351, but as Drhankz says, the actual video performance and capabilities will remain the same.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishysan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I figured I'd chime in for this one this time, save the regulars saying this..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As people have said, a lot of discussion goes on about "bugs" because people are looking to solve problems, and there's more happy people trying to work these things out and posting than people just saying "it's great" over and over. Not much to talk about when it's just working.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The point to remember is it's a complex piece surrounded by buggy sources. The whole HDMI thing is a mess. (and throw HDCP in there too.. ugh)
> 
> 
> Cable/satellite boxes are generally crap, and cause problems..
> 
> 
> HD DVD & BluRay are very new and also buggy.
> 
> 
> Every manufacturer out there has implemented HDMI differently and often incorrectly.
> 
> 
> Everything has software now so that products can be shipped before they are finished and we are forced to update. Anthem fortunately is doing that though so they can change and accommodate all these other devices out there that are moving targets.
> 
> 
> A processor ( AVM50 or D2 ) is stuck in the middle trying to make sense of all this and overcome all the problems that other devices have and connect all the dots while accounting for all the flake factor, etc. etc.
> 
> 
> I'm surprised any of our new stuff works at all it's so buggered!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's fun - and when it's all working it's sweeeeet.



Well said! If not for the HDMI "standards" and various implementation by manufacturers, the number of issues discussed in this thread would be reduced dramatically.


If you spend time reading threads in the Video Processor section of AVS, you will see that they have just as many issues, including things such as proper implementation of 1080p/24.


One thing you do NOT see discussed here: "my sound quality isn't very good"! Having had my D2 set up for less than a week, I can see why!


----------



## KIDSMD1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Others have already answered this question very
> 
> well. VIDEO is the SAME in both units. The DACs
> 
> are better in the D2 and the 2nd DSP is currently
> 
> idle waiting for some future upgrade from Anthem.
> 
> 
> The decision really comes down 100% to your AUDIO
> 
> chain beyond the Pre-Pro.
> 
> 
> If your AMPs and Speakers are top notch - go with
> 
> the D2.
> 
> 
> If the rest of your chain is not top notch - but you
> 
> someday plan to upgrade - then go with the D2.
> 
> When the rest of the chain is upgraded - then the
> 
> AVM50 becomes the weak link.
> 
> 
> If your audio chain is NOT TOP NOTCH and you
> 
> have no plans to upgrade - by all means go with
> 
> the AVM50.
> 
> 
> I hope that logic helps.



Absolutely perfectly stated!! The

audio on the D2 I feel is worth more than $1700+ The D2 is truly a highend audio preamp on par or better than other > $5k preamps only and you get a video high end precessor to boot!! (VR4SR mkII with TS150 surrounds and Visiun center)


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> and even said _that it would probably support HDMI 1.3_!!!



OH MY GOD that is even a BIGGER BS story.


HMDI 1.3 has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with any

Video Processor Chip. The HMDI chips are totally

Separate.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One thing you do NOT see discussed here: "my sound quality isn't very good"! Having had my D2 set up for less than a week, I can see why!





The sound QUALITY is Amazing -







and I came from an Amazing Pre-Pro BEFORE Anthem..


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OH MY GOD that is even a BIGGER BS story.
> 
> 
> HMDI 1.3 has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with any
> 
> Video Processor Chip. The HMDI chips are totally
> 
> Separate.



Exactly. Needless to say, I didn't purchase from that dealer!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The sound QUALITY is Amazing -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I came from an Amazing Pre-Pro BEFORE Anthem..



I'm telling you, I have still have not gotten over the improvement in sound quality over my prior pre/pro (which I thought was pretty good, and received lots of great reviews- see new link in my sig line). The difference was not small. And this is for ALL sources, including cable! But playing LPCM over HDMI is just incredible.


For those who are lurking and considering one of these babies: *Believe the hype*!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm telling you, I have still have not gotten over the improvement in sound quality over my prior pre/pro
> 
> 
> But playing LPCM over HDMI is just incredible.
> 
> 
> For those who are lurking and considering one of these babies: *Believe the hype*!




I came from a Lexicon MC-12b. I have been a Lexicon Customer

since the CP-1 - 1988 time frame. I owned Every Model Since the CP-1.


The Anthem with Uncompressed HDMI sources just makes me say


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With the B&W 803 you will hear improvement provide by the D2. Which brand and model of amp are you using?
> 
> 
> Yes the D2 will have a better upgrade path. Anthem is apparently working on the D3. What it will include I really don't know.



I don't know if the upgrade path will be better, as much as it will be sooner than an AVM-50 to D3 (as in a trade in potentially) or AVM-50 to AVM-70 (or whatever). The only thing I question is "better"



Here's my upgrade path, buy a new D3 within minutes of coming out







and not wait the painful amount of time for an upgrade. Demote the AVM-50 to second string theater.


I like to ride the early adopter wave one cycle forward, eg buying a Diamond vs an RS-1. Buying an AVM-50 vs a D2. Buying an HD2k vs a Qualia.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The Anthem with Uncompressed HDMI sources just makes me say



Flag on the play. D2 = two bouncies, only 3 when you get a D3


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Flag on the play. D2 = two bouncies, only 3 when you get a D3



I do THREE bouncies - ONLY because of the OLD SAYING ---

*"THREE TIMES FOR THE NORMAL MIND!"*


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I do THREE bouncies - ONLY because of the OLD SAYING ---
> 
> *"THREE TIMES FOR THE NORMAL MIND!"*


----------



## zzzzdoc

I came from Proceed PAV/PDSD pre/pro through Levenson amps, which I always thought had some of the best audio I've ever heard. Much to my amazement, I prefer the D2 through my Snell B's. I bought the Anthem for video/connectivity issues. The wonderful audio was an amazingly pleasant surprise.


And, we have a forum mascot:
























Plus, unlike the false upgrade promises with the Proceed, present Anthem users have gotten a real hardware upgrade, and Nick's tech support is top notch. Much less the amazing crew on this forum.


Can't beat the Anthem gear. Why are you still reading this. Go out and buy one.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The DACs
> 
> are better in the D2 and the 2nd DSP is currently
> 
> idle waiting for some future upgrade from Anthem.
> 
> 
> The decision really comes down 100% to your AUDIO
> 
> chain beyond the Pre-Pro.
> 
> 
> If your AMPs and Speakers are top notch - go with
> 
> the D2.
> 
> 
> If the rest of your chain is not top notch - but you
> 
> someday plan to upgrade - then go with the D2.
> 
> When the rest of the chain is upgraded - then the
> 
> AVM50 becomes the weak link.
> 
> 
> If your audio chain is NOT TOP NOTCH and you
> 
> have no plans to upgrade - by all means go with
> 
> the AVM50.
> 
> 
> I hope that logic helps.



I'd say the answer is they're both top notch and you pay a premium for the D2 for a small incremental gain in sound quality. The D2 was also harder to find for me.


I will be adding an Algolith Mosquito HDMI to the mix for a little more than I would have paid extra for the D2. For me, that's better bang-for-the-buck as the Gennum chip lacks a little in the noise reduction department.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I came from Proceed PAV/PDSD pre/pro through Levenson amps, which I always thought had some of the best audio I've ever heard. Much to my amazement, I prefer the D2 through my Snell B's. I bought the Anthem for video/connectivity issues. The wonderful audio was an amazingly pleasant surprise.
> 
> 
> And, we have a forum mascot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus, unlike the false upgrade promises with the Proceed, present Anthem users have gotten a real hardware upgrade, and Nick's tech support is top notch. Much less the amazing crew on this forum.
> 
> 
> Can't beat the Anthem gear. Why are you still reading this. Go out and buy one.



Thanks for posting that, as it is always good to read about what equipment Anthem owners came from and how it compares. Coming from a Proceed processor and preferring the Anthem is a big complement to the Anthem!


----------



## shah993




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for posting that, as it is always good to read about what equipment Anthem owners came from and how it compares. Coming from a Proceed processor and preferring the Anthem is a big complement to the Anthem!



I second that.I still have my proceed/PAV and have done a side by side comparision and the Anthem wins!!!!


----------



## Mark Lem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I second that.I still have my proceed/PAV and have done a side by side comparision and the Anthem wins!!!!




I'll say that's a complement, considering there is a giant long running thread (best sounding pre/pros in price range) started by member Zissou, where basically the Proceed AVP2 (+6) is king of the hill, and the Anthem AVM50/D2 gets trashed for it's sound on a consistent basis.


Edit: your piece is a PAV, not AVP2


----------



## logain2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Lem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll say that's a complement, considering there is a giant long running thread (best sounding pre/pros in price range) started by member Zissou, where basically the Proceed AVP2 (+6) is king of the hill, and the Anthem AVM50/D2 gets trashed for it's sound on a consistent basis.
> 
> 
> Edit: your piece is a PAV, not AVP2




I have seen that thread and was wondering how true it was. Zissou seems have a very low opinion of the Anthem. It goes on for pages filled with jabs at Anthem.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Lem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll say that's a complement, considering there is a giant long running thread (best sounding pre/pros in price range) started by member Zissou, where basically the Proceed AVP2 (+6) is king of the hill, and the Anthem AVM50/D2 gets trashed for it's sound on a consistent basis.
> 
> 
> Edit: your piece is a PAV, not AVP2



While I respect your opinion, keep in mind that Zissou is an Anthem hater and do not miss a chance at bashing Anthem. He went so far with no real meat in is argument that he lost and is thread lost all credibility.


There are plenty of threads on this forum that state preference for other well performing devices that the proceed such as the Anthem D2 / AVM 50 that are more than counter Zissou's thread and opinion.


Is the AVP2 that good? In some people's opinion it is that good. Others will disagree I am part of them.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *logain2000* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have seen that thread and was wondering how true it was. Zissou seems have a very low opinion of the Anthem. It goes on for pages filled with jabs at Anthem.




oups! you beat me...


----------



## LEVESQUE

Who cares about "member Zissou" opinion? It's one opinion only, in the middle of thousand other opinions on AVS... Nothing more, nothing less.


Did Zissou tried the *HDMI connexion* of the D2 with a true multi-channel LPCM track on a good Blu-ray title for exemple? I wouldn't be surprised if he doesn't even own a Blu-ray or HD DVD player. So it's a worthless opinion to me, since the D2 was made to be paired with those new high-end formats first. The D2 came out 1 month before the first HD DVD player exactly for that reason. And the D2 simply outshine every other pre/pros in that regard (multi-channel LPCM AND 1080p video processing, both over HDMI) since, well, there is no competition at all...


----------



## Mark Lem

I'm and Anthem fan (am ordering either AVM50 or D2). I'm also relatively new to the receiver forum, and have read all of the Zissou thread that disses Anthem and most of this one that praises Anthem. Just wanted to hear some thoughts from you guys. I think Levesque has good points...


----------



## mlbrand

I came from a Sunfire Theater Grand IV processor, and prefer the audio quality of the D2. The D2 seems to be cleaner sounding, with more punch, if that makes sense. BTW, I'm not a Sunfire basher, as I still like their products and am still using a Sunfire amp. I just like my D2 better.


----------



## Randall Morton

I had no idea tech support was so expensive. It cost me about $2.50 a minute to talk to Nick. Anyone know a cheap way to call Canada from the US?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Almost every phone company has an international plan that will cut your Canada call rates dramatically. You can probably even get one of the targeted cities plans even cheaper. You pay a few bucks a month for the plan, but you can make that up easily in a few calls.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had no idea tech support was so expensive. It cost me about $2.50 a minute to talk to Nick. Anyone know a cheap way to call Canada from the US?



I use VOIP from Comcast.


It costs nothing to call Canada.


And darn near nothing for other countries as well.


----------



## JeffDL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had no idea tech support was so expensive. It cost me about $2.50 a minute to talk to Nick. Anyone know a cheap way to call Canada from the US?



email. its free and Nick will respond very quickly. Customer service is second to none when it comes to Anthem. As for me I am a Rotel convert. The D2 still impresses me on a daily basis.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Who cares about "member Zissou" opinion? It's one opinion only, in the middle of thousand other opinions on AVS... Nothing more, nothing less.
> 
> 
> Did Zissou tried the *HDMI connexion* of the D2 with a true multi-channel LPCM track on a good Blu-ray title for exemple? I wouldn't be surprised if he doesn't even own a Blu-ray or HD DVD player. So it's a worthless opinion to me, since the D2 was made to be paired with those new high-end formats first. The D2 came out 1 month before the first HD DVD player exactly for that reason. And the D2 simply outshine every other pre/pros in that regard (multi-channel LPCM AND 1080p video processing, both over HDMI) since, well, there is no competition at all...



Yeah, I read that opinion and simply disagreed. Plus he sure does go through an inordinate amount of equipment. Hmmm....


My best friend has an AVP2, so I've extensively heard that compared to my PAV/PDSD combo. And through balanced cables, and the Levenson amps, finished off by the Snell B monoliths. Kept that system for years since I simply loved its timbre, spaciousness, and realism. Now without my RS-1 yet, I'm not exactly using the theater much, but I did put on some of my most familiar CD recordings, and I will put the D2 up there with almost any gear out there, though a great amp, and near-reference speakers.



No regrets here. Hopefully, all the compatibility issues will be sorted out by you folks (Bob, Levesque, the good Drs. (are we all Drs?)), and Nick by the time my RS-1 arrives, and I'll be in theater bliss.


----------



## Randall Morton

I'll throw in my 2 cents. Thats all I have left after paying my phone bill.







Coming from a lowly Denon 5800 I was taken totally by surprise by the amazing sound produced by the D2. I mostly upgraded for the video processing and the switching capability. I really thought the sound I had from the Denon was decent. I had no idea.


I rewatched an old DVD the other day "Oh Brother, Where Art Thou". When Delmar, Pete and Everett were walking up the road to Pete's cousin and the kid fired the rifle I almost fell out of my chair. I wish they would do a Blu-ray of this, great soundtrack. It was like a new dimension was added to this movie.


Oh, I now have 5 cents a minute anywhere in US and Canada. Thanks


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm telling you, I have still have not gotten over the improvement in sound quality over my prior pre/pro (which I thought was pretty good, and received lots of great reviews- see new link in my sig line). The difference was not small. And this is for ALL sources, including cable! But playing LPCM over HDMI is just incredible.
> 
> 
> For those who are lurking and considering one of these babies: *Believe the hype*!



I have been lurking and I am considering one of these babies, but the burning question is what makes it sound so much better. Please describe. . . in detail if you can.


The thing I'm worried about is that I have read that some say that the Anthem gear sounds forward and bright. I like a more nuetral or even laid back sound.


Cheers,


- Tim


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll throw in my 2 cents. Thats all I have left after paying my phone bill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coming from a lowly Denon 5800 I was taken totally by surprise by the amazing sound produced by the D2. I mostly upgraded for the video processing and the switching capability. I really thought the sound I had from the Denon was decent. I had no idea.



I made a similar transition.


As previously mentioned - I have been a Lexicon Owner

of every Pre-Pro they ever made ending at the MC-12b.


I needed to transition to HMDI swithching. I called my friends

at Lexicon - 12 miles down the road to buy a MC-12HD. But

I couldn't believe my ears - NO 1080p support.


So I tried a Denon 5805. I only kept it 48 hours. I went

back to my Lexicon - I could not listen to the Denon sound.

BTW - I only used it as a Pre-Pro because I have 10 channels

of external amps.


It took me another two months to even find Anthem. I had

honestly never heard of them. Then I spent a month travelling

to Anthem Dealers within a 200 mile radius to find one dealer

who had a D2 in hand. I bought it on the SPOT and never looked

Back. I sold my Lexicon 48 hours after setting up the D2.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The thing I'm worried about is that I have read that some say that the Anthem gear sounds forward and bright. I like a more nuetral or even laid back sound.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> - Tim



I never believe any review I read. I can't understand how

one person describes a sound versus another.


GO FIND A DEALER and LISTEN.


I always buy what sounds good to me. I'm the one paying

the BILLS.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been lurking and I am considering one of these babies, but the burning question is what makes it sound so much better. Please describe. . . in detail if you can.
> 
> 
> The thing I'm worried about is that I have read that some say that the Anthem gear sounds forward and bright. I like a more nuetral or even laid back sound.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> - Tim



Tim.. In my opinion, the Anthem's are very transparent and powerful... they have a very airy sound to them, lots of midrange punch, and don't seem to color the sound. I heard the Lexicon MC12 for the first time the other day, and would say that I preferred the sound of the Anthem much better (although it could've been the speakers or amps, and I found the room a little dead for my tastes.) To me, the Lex seemed a little more contained and not as natural, but that's just me.... but I listened to a track I know better than anyone, so I think it's a valid conclusion.


I would agree that the Anthem amps are a little on the bright side, but I really think as a pre amp and processor, you will find none better at under $10,000, and mated to the right amp, I would not imagine you being disappointed.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been lurking and I am considering one of these babies, but the burning question is what makes it sound so much better. Please describe. . . in detail if you can.
> 
> 
> The thing I'm worried about is that I have read that some say that the Anthem gear sounds forward and bright. I like a more nuetral or even laid back sound.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> - Tim



Hey Tim-


I don't think anyone would disagree with Drhankz recommendation to listen to the Anthem if you can. But many people don't have this opportunity. Some people would question the value of listening to the Anthem _with different speakers, different amps, and different listening environment_ other than your own anyway.


Describing the improvement in sound can be difficult, but let me try. The sound is richer and fuller than what I was getting before. It seems more detailed to me, and I don't equate that to being "bright". The sound just seems to be more engaging and enveloping. I feel more of a connection to the sound. Hope this doesn't sound too silly, it's the best I can do.







I'm sure this is what DrHankz meant by saying how difficult it is to understand one person describing sound versus another.


What pre/pro do you have now?


EDIT: Just listen to FilmMixer! If ever there was someone qualified to answer your question, it is him, as he mixes soundtracks for a living! Lucky SOB...............


----------



## dvdguru

I'm considering and avm40 or avm50. I currently have an outlaw 990 prepro and 7125 7channel amp. Will I still get an increase in SQ with just replacing the prepro? I can't afford to get an anthem amp anytime soon. thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just listen to FilmMixer! If ever there was someone qualified to answer your question, it is him, as he mixes soundtracks for a living! Lucky SOB...............



I must agree with Rob on Marc [FilmMixer].


I contacted Marc before I bought my D2. Yes I did my

research. Yes - I went to 4 dealers and Listened. But

my final decision was made by Marc's Recommendation.

Someone who does this for a Professional living should

be extremely qualified to JUDGE one good audio piece

from another.


----------



## jclem

Just curious, I've been reading the comments here by people who have converted from Lexicon, & Proceed (and others as well), and was just wondering if anyone out there came over from the Tag McClaren camp? I think Tag used to be at a similar level as the Lexicon and Proceed. (Just a name I remember because of their fine race cars.)


----------



## hifisponge

drhankz, Rob H, and FilmMixer -


Thank you for the thoughtful replies. The D2 certainly sounds promising, and while I have a dealer near by, I get a 20% discount on all gear through his shop IF I don't take up a bunch of his time auditioning stuff. Its a double edged sword, because I can get some really great equipment on the cheap, but I essentially have to buy it sight unseen (or unheard in this case).


I currently own a Denon 5800 that I have been generally happy with, but it is getting up in years and I'm ready for a true upgrade. My speakers are the Paradigm Signature line (from the same company that makes Anthem gear). I would think this would be a very synergistic pairing as I'm sure that they voiced the Anthem gear on the speakers I own.


Randall Morton - How would you compare the sound of the D2 to the Denon you used to own?


drhankz - Since you briefly owned a Denon 5805, why were you so quick to part with it?


FilmMixer - What amps would you recommend if you don't recommend the matching Anthem Statement amp?


Thanks again,


- Tim


----------



## FilmMixer

^^^ Tim... I really like the Anthem amps, and can easily reccomend them, but I like it a little bright and punchy... If you like laid back, I am sure others here will share their thoughts...


The other amps I have heard that I liked recently were the Emotiva MPS1's... they were a little noisy/hissy, but very smooth, powerful and musical, and I think a great bang for the buck...


----------



## legacyrocks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz, Rob H, and FilmMixer -
> 
> 
> Thank you for the thoughtful replies. The D2 certainly sounds promising, and while I have a dealer near by, I get a 20% discount on all gear through his shop IF I don't take up a bunch of his time auditioning stuff. Its a double edged sword, because I can get some really great equipment on the cheap, but I essentially have to buy it sight unseen (or unheard in this case).
> 
> 
> I currently own a Denon 5800 that I have been generally happy with, but it is getting up in years and I'm ready for a true upgrade. My speakers are the Paradigm Signature line (from the same company that makes Anthem gear). I would think this would be a very synergistic pairing as I'm sure that they voiced the Anthem gear on the speakers I own.
> 
> 
> Randall Morton - How would you compare the sound of the D2 to the Denon you used to own?
> 
> 
> drhankz - Since you briefly owned a Denon 5805, why were you so quick to part with it?
> 
> 
> FilmMixer - What amps would you recommend if you don't recommend the matching Anthem Statement amp?
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> 
> - Tim



Sorry to butt in. I own a AVM 50 and paired it up with a Butler Audio TDB 2250 amp and a TDB 5150 amp. I strongly recommend you audition one of these amps. Excellent for music and home theater. Sound is very clean, neutral and warm. I just sit there with a smile from ear to ear - blown away. Good luck on your purchase.


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^ Tim... I really like the Anthem amps, and can easily reccomend them, but I like it a little bright and punchy... If you like laid back, I am sure others here will share their thoughts...
> 
> 
> The other amps I have heard that I liked recently were the Emotiva MPS1's... they were a little noisy/hissy, but very smooth, powerful and musical, and I think a great bang for the buck...



Thanks. Let me clarify something, as "bright" can be a rather broad term. Detail, a lively character and an extended treble is good as long as it is not edgy, aggressive, grating or overly analytical. I listen to a lot of pop, rock and R&B, which can be fairly bright to begin with. I just don't want something that will make these types of recordings overly bright and fatiguing.


Thanks for the recommendation on the amp, though I think I'd like to stay away from anything with an audible noise floor. What amps do you use? Anthem?


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legacyrocks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry to butt in. I own a AVM 50 and paired it up with a Butler Audio TDB 2250 amp and a TDB 5150 amp. I strongly recommend you audition one of these amps. Excellent for music and home theater. Sound is very clean, neutral and warm. I just sit there with a smile from ear to ear - blown away. Good luck on your purchase.



You're not butting in at all. I really appreciate the recommendation. Sounds like an amp I would like.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. Let me clarify something, as "bright" can be a rather broad term. Detail, a lively character and an extended treble is good as long as it is not edgy, aggressive, grating or overly analytical. I listen to a lot of pop, rock and R&B, which can be fairly bright to begin with. I just don't want something that will make these types of recordings overly bright and fatiguing.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the recommendation on the amp, though I think I'd like to stay away from anything with an audible noise floor. What amps do you use? Anthem?



Anthem Statement A5... I don't find it edge or harsh at at... just clean and loud! I have pretty laid back speakers, though, so that has a lot to do with it...


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^ Tim... I really like the Anthem amps, and can easily reccomend them, but I like it a little bright and punchy... If you like laid back, I am sure others here will share their thoughts...
> 
> 
> The other amps I have heard that I liked recently were the Emotiva MPS1's... they were a little noisy/hissy, but very smooth, powerful and musical, and I think a great bang for the buck...



Thought you'd be interested in a few choice quotes from a review of the the Anthem A5 amp. They certainly make the Anthem amps sound like one I could easily live with.

http://www.hometheatersound.com/equi...atement_a5.htm 


"...it sounded great straight out of the box -- *relaxed*, powerful, with a huge, deep soundstage."


"In the parlance of days gone by, the Anthem had *tube-like smoothness*, while the B&K had a more mechanical, transistor-like sound."


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz - Since you briefly owned a Denon 5805, why were you so quick to part with it?
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> 
> - Tim



Simply because I had been using Lexicon since 1988 - all

the various Models. I honestly never tried any other Pre-Pro

than Lexicon.


I tried Denon 5805 for 48 hours. I decided I would rather

listen to my OLD Lexicon using Optical [non-HDMI] inputs

than the Denon. It just does not compare in sound quality.


The one thing Denon did prove was that I needed a HDMI

Pre-Pro for Blu-Ray and HD DVD listening.


Therefore - Anthem D2 - After I did extensive Research.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The other amps I have heard that I liked recently were the Emotiva MPS1's... they were a little noisy/hissy, but very smooth, powerful and musical, and I think a great bang for the buck...



Marc; as a PROFESSIONAL - How can you allow any noise or hiss.


I have 10 channels of audio - a Total of 24,000 watts.

You can hear a pin drop in my theater. Even if you

put your ear against each speaker. For Me QUITE is

as important as LOUD


----------



## JeffDL

I auditioned an A5 in my system for about a month and didn't see any improvemnet over my Rotel 1095. I am waiting on a P5 which I'm sure will make the difference I am looking for.


----------



## Randall Morton

I'm not an audiophile and I use my system for home theater only. Going from the 5800 to the D2 was an eye opening(ear opening?) experience. I have the P5 and I never hear any humming or hiss. in quiet passages at reference volume it is totally quiet. In movie viewing I think this adds to the startle factor when the sounds change dramatically for effect. The amp is probably more than I need, but I felt like it would be future proof. The D2 made a much larger difference to me than the amp.


----------



## LEVESQUE

The Anthem are not bright. That's a false comment about Anthem that the internet parrots are copying and pasting all around the net (I'm not talking here about all the people posting in this thread previously though...







).


The Anthems are simply REALLY transparent and faithful to the recording. BUT! Probably that 95% of the people listening to the Anthems are doing it in a non-treated and non-acoustically optimized room (like the average dealer demo room, or 98% of the regular living-room where people are listening to those amps and pre-pro...), and then they can truely sound "bright" because of excessive flutter echo, comb filtering, etc (common with non treated bare walls) and other sound problems related to non-treated room...


Some companies like Integra Research, Rotel and others to name a few names, knows that and are intentionnally playing with the sound to make it sound more laidback and more pleasing to the ears in the "regular" and common non-optimized environment. But it's not the proper way to do it. I remember reading a paper form a VP from Rotel explaining eaxctly that about some of their amps with a laidback sound in the highs. It was done intentionnally by the product designers.


All amps and pre/pros should be transparent and not touching the sound in any way, just like Anthem, and the end-users should treat their room. Sound engineers and product designers from those manufacturers shouldn't touch the sound in any way. It's our job at the end of the chain to treat our room and the sound.


So in a properly treated and optmized room, the Anthems are simply totally transparent and faithful to the recordings, and far from beeing bright. "Brightness" comes form the listening environment when it's not properly treated. Anthem are giving us the recording exactly like it was recorded. M. FilmMixer made the choice to go with Anthem for probably exactly that reason. He wants to hear what was recorded the way it was recorded, and not what the sound engineers or product designers working for a manufacturer want him to hear... Major difference in my book...


And between "member Zissou" and M. FilmMixer (a professionnal working with sound for a living) opinions, I choose the professionnal. Not the anonymous member hiding behind an alias...


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvdguru* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm considering and avm40 or avm50. I currently have an outlaw 990 prepro and 7125 7channel amp. Will I still get an increase in SQ with just replacing the prepro? I can't afford to get an anthem amp anytime soon. thanks



Absolutely! Read my prior posts. I only replaced my pre/pro (Parasound Halo C2) that I (thought) I was very happy with. The improvement in SQ was bigger than I ever thought it would or could be.


----------



## dvdguru

Thanks Rob, I remember you from the Pioneer 59avi thread back when I owned that player. I'm looking for either the avm40 or avm50 and don't want to have to replace it for a long time. I'm looking to upgrade due to some of my current prepro's shortcomings which are: unable to apply dolby prologic 2x over the analog inputs, no hdmi, no independent LFE channels boost settings to counter the low lfe problem with hd dvd/bluray, etc. I'm hoping anthem is the answer for me and am in the research process now.


----------



## lumikola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Some companies like Integra Research, Rotel and others to name a few names, knows that and are intentionnally playing with the sound to make it sound more laidback and more pleasing to the ears in the "regular" and common non-optimized environment. But it's not the proper way to do it. I remember reading a paper form a VP from Rotel explaining eaxctly that about some of their amps with a laidback sound in the highs. It was done intentionnally by the product designers.
> 
> 
> All amps and pre/pros should be transparent and not touching the sound in any way, just like Anthem, and the end-users should treat their room. Sound engineers and product designers from those manufacturers shouldn't touch the sound in any way. It's our job at the end of the chain to treat our room and the sound.
> 
> 
> So in a properly treated and optmized room, the Anthems are simply totally transparent and faithful to the recordings, and far from beeing bright. "Brightness" comes form the listening environment when it's not properly treated. Anthem are giving us the recording exactly like it was recorded. M. FilmMixer made the choice to go with Anthem for probably exactly that reason. He wants to hear what was recorded the way it was recorded, and not what the sound engineers or product designers working for a manufacturer want him to hear... Major difference in my book...
> 
> 
> And between "member Zissou" and M. FilmMixer (a professionnal working with sound for a living) opinions, I choose the professionnal. Not the anonymous member hiding behind an alias...



Levesque, do you have any documents that prove this approach from Rotel. I'm using Rotel RMB-1077 (D class 7x100W) with Anthem D2 and it's working perfectly. D2 does the job and 1077 doesn't change anything. I've heard and owned other Rotels and they sound very good, but 1077 is by far the most pleasing experience so far.


I'm very happy with my D2 at the moment. The price is appr. 8-9000 US dollars here in Finland, but there's not much comparison. I had Meridian G series processor, but Europe lost (only this time







).


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lumikola* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque, do you have any documents that prove this approach from Rotel.



It was a "manufacturer response" in a magazine review that was posted on-line. Sadly, I don't remember which magazine is doing those manufacturer answer or comments at the end of a review. It was about the RMB-1095 and the 2 channels Rotel with 300W or more per channel.


The review was online 2 or 3 years ago. Sorry, I can't tell you more. It was a VP from Rotel talking about a review made in that magazine the month before were the reviewer was talking about the laidback highs with those 2 amps. The Rotel VPs was saying that it's impossible to design an amp working perfectly in all those different environments and with all those sources and pre/pros out there, and that it was a designer choice to make those amps compatible with a lot of different set-ups by taming the highs a bit (to compensate for those non-treated room with bar walls).


I knew someone would ask me precisions about that.










And maybe Rotel are not doing it anymore. But I was REALLY impressed with that VP, since he was honest enough to tell the truth. You don't see that often in this industry full of magic cables and pseudo-scientific facts about magical results. It was simply telling me that Rotel are serious guys knowing what they are doing, and honest about it.


----------



## yatchaks

I have not had the luxury of trying various pre-amps with my amps, which some of you obviously had.


I made mention of this here once before, and I am still considering selling my AVM 50 to buy a D2. The recent positive posts regarding the D2 sound quality yet again sways me to sell. I wish I could listen to a D2 in my system, that way I could put any doubts to rest.


With my somewhat limited experience, I have believed that changing/upgrading an amp would make much more of a difference than changing pre-amps. Most folks here are talking what an audio difference the D2 makes, not what a difference amp x made with my D2.


What is confusing to me, is many folks on this forum are from another camp. If they have say.. $8000.00 to spend, they might buy a Denon as a pre-amp for around $1500.00, and spend $6500.00 on amps. Most buy the pre for features they need, not because of an audio difference. For the audio difference, they are obviously looking for it from the amp.


I certainly realize our loudspeakers (and room) allow for the final differences to be heard, and in the speaker department, I am more than good.


My experience...I had a top of the line receiver, a Pioneer Elite 49Tx, it broke. I ordered an Anthem MCA50/AVM50 combo and the dealer let me borrow a $2000.00 Denon while waiting for the new goods. The Denon wasn't so great. The Anthem MCA50 amp showed up, I used the the Denon as a pre-amp. A night and day difference was heard which bested the Pioneer by a long shot. The AVM50 arrived, I thought it was dramatic.


Recently for kicks, I pulled out an old Denon from my closet, and ran it as a pre for a couple hours and told myself I would do an honest comparison, and honestly, not much different. Granted, no A/B comparison could be done, but I didn't hear much of a difference anyway.


Of note, my room has room treatment, but the room is not ideal whatsoever. It is very possible that my room limitations are not allowing me to hear the real difference.


Those of you who believe the D2 has made a night and day audio difference in your system, do feel it is more dramatic than the day you added your newest amp(s)? Is there really that much of an audio difference between these pre-amps?



Mark


----------



## LEVESQUE

I found it!

http://europe.rotel.com/reviews/pdfs...sion-may2k.pdf 


Manufacturer's Response, at the end. You have to read between the lines a little bit, but it's pretty clear what this VP really means...


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had no idea tech support was so expensive. It cost me about $2.50 a minute to talk to Nick. Anyone know a cheap way to call Canada from the US?




Have you check Skype.


----------



## madpoet

So there's no recent news on the upgrade front? I flipped back and didn't see any, but I thought it was worth asking.


----------



## Tolstoi

Matching amps and speakers is a personal taste and room acoustics. In my setup I tried Anthem, Bryston, YBA amps. The best results were with a tube amp for the main and a YBA to drive the Proac center and surround.


The funny thing is that the Bryston Amp was sounding better with the Anthem D2 than with the Bryston SP2 .


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have not had the luxury of trying various pre-amps with my amps, which some of you obviously had.
> 
> 
> Those of you who believe the D2 has made a night and day audio difference in your system, do feel it is more dramatic than the day you added your newest amp(s)? Is there really that much of an audio difference between these pre-amps?
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



Mark, I previously had Audio Research equipment(LS-2 and 100.2) which were sold and replaced with a D1(D2 upgrade soon) and A5. I have kept the same speakers for 2 channel main and source electronics(ProAc 2.5 and Theta transport). Even using Anthem electronics to run 2 channel, I hear nuances that I have never heard before. It is all about the balance and matching of components. In the end, let your ears be the judge.

Regards, Rick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *madpoet* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So there's no recent news on the upgrade front? I flipped back and didn't see any, but I thought it was worth asking.



Which upgrade are you asking about?


D1 to D2 upgrades are available now.


AVM-xx upgrades to AVM-50 have not yet begun. It is not known what the hold-up is on these.

--Bob


----------



## madpoet

Yeah, sorry Bob. That's what I was referring to. AVM20-50


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wish I could listen to a D2 in my system, that way I could put any doubts to rest.
> 
> 
> Mark



I assume your local Anthem dealer does not

have a D2 in-stock you could try?


----------



## Djoel

Hey are there any D2 with silver face?


I call an installer for avm 50 in silver b/c most of my component are silver face. I guess he did 'nt really hear me saying Avm 50 or something hey quote me a price for a D2 in silver! Then said Anthem stop making them, but he has seen a few.


I wouldn't mine one in silver face, if there is such a thing...I think he was just confuse.


If not does anyone know of a place where they can dip the face to silver.


DJOEL


----------



## lazarus28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I assume your local Anthem dealer does not
> 
> have a D2 in-stock you could try?




While Anthem the company is top-notch, the same cannot necessarily be said of the dealer network, at least in my experience.


At the very least, my local dealer employs the single most confident, uninformed, snobby little bastard with whom I have ever had the unpleasantness to deal.


Don't get me wrong, I can handle high-end snobbery. I can't handle misinformation. The Anthem dealer in my area told me that there was no "real" difference between the AVM-50 and D2, that Anthem would not let me try it out before I bought it, and that I couldn't see one running *at all* first because they wouldn't order one unless somebody was buying it. Then they told me that there are *no* projectors on the market that have the necessary pixels for 1080p so I should just buy a 480p one. (I already owned a 720 at the time) Then, when I told him that Sony, at least, had two on the market, he said that the Sony Ruby and Pearl and all the other 1080p projectors on the market were, in fact, using a smaller physical panel and only *really* supported 720p and just used scaling to fool the user. I tried to explain to him that his information might be, at best, out of date, and he told me that 1080p was impossible and that nobody needed it. Then he told me that there aren't any sources at all that can pass it. When I mentioned HD-DVD and Blu-Ray, not to mention the ability to deinterlace 1080i to 1080p, he told me that the new formats only did 1080i and that nothing on the market did 1080i deinterlacing. I told him that the Anthem would deinterlace 1080i and he once again told me that no projectors or TVs would do 1080p. Then he said that a 480p projector hooked up via s-video would always look better than 720 via component because all DVDs are 480. This man should *not* be selling video processors.


This was no more than 3 months ago. I have never spent a dime in that store, nor will I ever. The guy is smug, rude, unhelpful, and WRONG, WRONG, WRONG.


Fortunately, I purchased a D1 on Audiogon and dealt with Anthem directly. They were helpful, communicative, friendly, and well-informed. I now have my D2 (D1-HD) in my room and I couldn't be happier. I have a bit of an odd set up, in that I use 2 preamps. The Anthem is used solely as an SSP and video processor. The audio output then runs to an EMM Labs Switchman preamp, which stays at a constant volume on that input, allowing me to adjust the volume with the Anthem remote. All music-only sources go through the Switchman directly, becuase it is a better analog preamp. All game, video, and movie sources go through the Anthem, which handles digital signals better than anything I've ever heard. The Anthem replaced a Sunfire Theater Grand 3, which was used in the same way, and the Anthem is in a different league than the TG-3. The upsampling and processing of DD and other lossy signals is inspired and brilliant. I never, never, never thought DD, DTS, and cable could sound so real.


My hifi consists of some esoteric and expensive(even by audiophile standards) equipment, and I cannot stress enough how well the Anthem fits in along side the rest of it. The difference in sound quality between the Sunfire and the Anthem is remarkable and not at all subtle, if you have the right downstream component. I've *never* been happier with an SSP, a device I never though could actually be made well.


On a different tangent: the people in this thread rock. You guys are helpful, honest, and friendly. THANK YOU for answering so many of my questions without me even having to ask!


My only request: I have yet to be initiated with the bouncing smileys. Please make my pain end. =)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lazarus28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My only request: I have yet to be initiated with the bouncing smileys. Please make my pain end. =)



Why we just happen to have a fresh batch in today!







































For any newbies, this is our mascot. Back around the holidays I commented on the exuberance in this thread with words to the effect of:


"Oh those Anthem owners! Silly grins on the lot of them! Hopping up and down in glee!"


The rest is history.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lazarus28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My only request: I have yet to be initiated with the bouncing smileys. Please make my pain end. =)



WOW that is some dealer indeed.


Anthem should YANK his franchise for sure.


I'm glad you are a HAPPY D1-HD Owner


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Djoel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey are there any D2 with silver face?
> 
> 
> I call an installer for avm 50 in silver b/c most of my component are silver face. I guess he did 'nt really hear me saying Avm 50 or something hey quote me a price for a D2 in silver! Then said Anthem stop making them, but he has seen a few.
> 
> 
> I wouldn't mine one in silver face, if there is such a thing...I think he was just confuse.
> 
> 
> If not does anyone know of a place where they can dip the face to silver.
> 
> 
> DJOEL



If they do it, it would likely be a special order: Add 4-6 weeks on to what would otherwise be the lead time.


I believe we had some reports here of European D2's shipping in silver, but that would have been some time ago.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lazarus28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My only request: I have yet to be initiated with the bouncing smileys. Please make my pain end. =)



I HAVE A NEED to OUTDO BOB


----------



## TreborS

Yeah I know the difference between the D2 and the AVM50 is mostly just audio.


$2000 for better audio with the possibility of not being able to discern the difference with my untrained ears, lack of decent amps, and probably compared to you guys mediocre speakers ... I can't really advocate the price difference for the D2.


But you guys are really making me cry.


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not an audiophile and I use my system for home theater only. Going from the 5800 to the D2 was an eye opening(ear opening?) experience. I have the P5 and I never hear any humming or hiss. in quiet passages at reference volume it is totally quiet. In movie viewing I think this adds to the startle factor when the sounds change dramatically for effect. The amp is probably more than I need, but I felt like it would be future proof. The D2 made a much larger difference to me than the amp.



As I'm also a Denon 5800 owner, I would like it if you could expand on your feeling that the D2 is a noticable improvement in sound quality. What is it about the sound of the D2 that you feel is better than the Denon?


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Simply because I had been using Lexicon since 1988 - all
> 
> the various Models. I honestly never tried any other Pre-Pro
> 
> than Lexicon.
> 
> 
> I tried Denon 5805 for 48 hours. I decided I would rather
> 
> listen to my OLD Lexicon using Optical [non-HDMI] inputs
> 
> than the Denon. It just does not compare in sound quality.
> 
> 
> The one thing Denon did prove was that I needed a HDMI
> 
> Pre-Pro for Blu-Ray and HD DVD listening.
> 
> 
> Therefore - Anthem D2 - After I did extensive Research.



Can you describe what it was about the sound quality that "didn't compare".


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TreborS* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah I know the difference between the D2 and the AVM50 is mostly just audio.
> 
> 
> $2000 for better audio with the possibility of not being able to discern the difference with my untrained ears, lack of decent amps, and probably compared to you guys mediocre speakers ... I can't really advocate the price difference for the D2.
> 
> 
> But you guys are really making me cry.



Remember that there's a comparison sheet in the AVM section of the Anthem site that includes the AVM-50 and the D2.


The video solution is identical in the two of them.


The D2 has a more "exotic" audio solution, a better power supply, and spare DSP processing power that is expected -- eventually -- to be used by the long, long, LONG awaited Anthem Room EQ solution.


There are a scant handful of feature differences between them -- all listed in that comparison sheet.


---------------------------------------------------------


It is perfectly reasonable that the D2 would sound better than the AVM-50 due to the better power supply (a critical factor in any analog circuitry), the higher digital upsampling and the quality of its DACs.


It is also perfectly reasonable that some owners may not hear the difference due to the nature of the rest of their equipment, the conditions of their listening room, and/or their own ability to judge audio.


The AVM-50 is no slouch, by any means, and if you have concerns about other aspects of your home theater you may, quite reasonably, decide to get the AVM-50 and put that money into something else.


But if you can afford the D2, and have nothing more important to spend that money on in your home theater, then by all means get the D2.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvdguru* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Rob, I remember you from the Pioneer 59avi thread back when I owned that player. I'm looking for either the avm40 or avm50 and don't want to have to replace it for a long time. I'm looking to upgrade due to some of my current prepro's shortcomings which are: unable to apply dolby prologic 2x over the analog inputs, no hdmi, no independent LFE channels boost settings to counter the low lfe problem with hd dvd/bluray, etc. I'm hoping anthem is the answer for me and am in the research process now.



You've come to the right place!


Take some time to read through this mega thread. Lots of great info! And the people here are always willing to help.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I HAVE A NEED to OUTDO BOB




Since I am the one who officially introduced our mascot, I have a NEED to outdo drhankz!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you describe what it was about the sound quality that "didn't compare".



I'm afraid I can't.


Even though I am an Electrical Engineer - Sound to

me is something personal. I am not qualified to describe

it the way reviewers do in terms I can even equate to.


I did A/B comparisons between the Lexicon and the Denon.

If you had been here - I'm sure you would have heard the

difference. Even my wife - who has no engineering training

of any kind - said I don't like that sound. AGAIN - it is after

a Comparison.


In a vacuum - Denon only - it would have sounded great.

Side-by-Side - a way different story.


I did the same A/B with the Lexicon and D2.


The D2 won. It is sound the way I like it. I know that

is not a professional opinion - but SOUND is personal


----------



## Hank527

Question the AVM 50 vs the D2. The only feature that stands out is the DTS 192. Am I correct to assume an upgrade will allow both of these receivers to play DTS-HD?


Currently I have a Lexicon MC-1 and really really want to upgrade, but I also do not need a digital projector as mine is CRT based right now.


So I'm sure sound wise this is much better than the LEX ( I do like logic 7) , but when is Dolby True HD going to come into the picture.


----------



## Djoel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If they do it, it would likely be a special order: Add 4-6 weeks on to what would otherwise be the lead time.
> 
> 
> I believe we had some reports here of European D2's shipping in silver, but that would have been some time ago.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob good to know.


I'll take silver face if someone has one, and store it till I am ready to upgrade.


Djoel


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hank527* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question the AVM 50 vs the D2. The only feature that stands out is the DTS 192. Am I correct to assume an upgrade will allow both of these receivers to play DTS-HD?
> 
> 
> Currently I have a Lexicon MC-1 and really really want to upgrade, but I also do not need a digital projector as mine is CRT based right now.
> 
> 
> So I'm sure sound wise this is much better than the LEX ( I do like logic 7) , but when is Dolby True HD going to come into the picture.



The D2 has more DSP which _may_ be used for future features (room eq, etc.) and also upconverts everything internally to 24/192k for processing. As it stands, I don't think the AVM's or D2 will ever internally decode DTS HD... but that's a moot point, as all that is required is decoding inside the player.


TureHD is already in the picture if you have an HDMI equiped processor... it is decoded to PCM in the player and passed along to the proc.. all of the new codecs must be converted to PCM prior to processing (bass management, time delay, etc.) and in regards to the new optical formats, I see no benefit to doing it in the processor over doing it in the player.


Also, as far as HD DVD goes, 99% of the titles out there now will not pass the lossy or lossless HD codecs over HDMI as bitstreams because they are authored in the advanced format.


And as far as Logic 7 is concerned, the Anthems have their own version of that in addition to Dolby PLIIx.


As a side note, while the Anthems (current models) will never accept 7.1 inputs on the HDMI ports, I am firmly in the camp that believes that discrete 7.1 trakcs will be indecernable from 5.1 extractions using DPLIIx.... why? If I want to pan something to the back center of the room, and I am using stereo surrounds, I will get the signal in both the LS and RS channel.. If I use a DPLIIx decoder, and have a 6.1 or 7.1 setup, it will end up on the CS area... since the decoder doesn't have to worry about a surround channel like straight DPL does (i.e. decoding and LCRS from LtRt), it doesn't suffer from as many steering artifacts, and should be hard to discern from discret LS LSB RSB RS sources...


Although I am working on some 7.1 tracks myself, this once again, in my opinion, is a lot of marketing that ends up making consumers nervous.... in the same way that HDMI 1.3 does.


Don't believe the hype


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Although I am working on some 7.1 tracks myself, this once again, in my opinion, is a lot of marketing that ends up making consumers nervous.... in the same way that HDMI 1.3 does.
> 
> 
> Don't believe the hype



Well said.


And since it's coming from you, it's adding alot of weight to it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hank527* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question the AVM 50 vs the D2. The only feature that stands out is the DTS 192. Am I correct to assume an upgrade will allow both of these receivers to play DTS-HD?
> 
> 
> Currently I have a Lexicon MC-1 and really really want to upgrade, but I also do not need a digital projector as mine is CRT based right now.
> 
> 
> So I'm sure sound wise this is much better than the LEX ( I do like logic 7) , but when is Dolby True HD going to come into the picture.



In addition to what FilmMixer said, understand that changing the AVM-50 or D2 to include internal decoding of the new lossles audio formats (TrueHD or DTS-HD MA) can *NOT* be done by software change alone.


Getting these undecoded bitstreams into an AV processor requires HDMI V1.3 (or higher) and the HDMI chips for V1.3 are different. So at the very least a hardware change would be needed for that. In reality, other hardware would likely have to change as well.


Now no device -- no player and no AV receiver or pre/pro -- is shipping today with DTS-HD MA decoders. This is due to hold ups between DTS and the hardware manufacturers. Once DTS-HD MA decoders start shipping, the expectation is that they will appeal in new players, or be added as upgrades to existing players, so that DTS-HD MA will play into the Anthem exactly the same way TrueHD works today -- i.e., the track is decoded into its constituent PCM digital audio streams in the PLAYER and the resulting, multi-channel, high bandwidth PCM is then sent to the Anthems over HDMI V1.1. This will work without any change needed in either the AVM-50 or D2. All we are waiting on is players that include the DTS-HD MA decoders to match with the TrueHD decoders already found in players.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As I'm also a Denon 5800 owner, I would like it if you could expand on your feeling that the D2 is a noticable improvement in sound quality. What is it about the sound of the D2 that you feel is better than the Denon?



You people are hard. I'm not really a sound person. I use the D2 in my home theater and not normally for listening to music. It has to do with the fullness of the sound, the placement and movement of the sound around the room. Voices sound clearer and cleaner. The channels are more discrete. Explosions have more realism, etc.


I was not expecting a big difference in going from my 5800 to the D2 so this was a huge bonus for me. I didn't realize how lacking the 5800 was. When I first received the D2 I didn't have an external amp and ran it through the 5800 ext. in. It was a huge improvement and the Denon amp side seemed to work very well with the D2. I then purchased the P5 to replace the Denon and there was improvement, but nowhere near the improvement I got from the D2.


In fairness to the amp, I do not have the large speakers that this amp is capable of driving. I purchased the amp with future proof in mind. I have B&W speakers, HTM1 center and 805Ss and a B&W sub. These speakers don't even begin to tax the amp. Right now I'm happy with these speakers, but I may upgrade to 803s or 804s for my mains in the future.


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You people are hard. I'm not really a sound person. I use the D2 in my home theater and not normally for listening to music. It has to do with the fullness of the sound, the placement and movement of the sound around the room. Voices sound clearer and cleaner. The channels are more discrete. Explosions have more realism, etc.



Sorry, not trying to grill you, I'm just very interested in knowing what other people equate to "better" sound quality. It is hard to describe, but you have done a fine job. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## aus

This thread is just amazing, and I've read a lot of it, but I'm still working my way through the manual... and this thread.


I can't seem to get my Oppo970 to work with the AVM50. I get bars on the side and the picuture is "squished" sideways. I have the output at 480i from the 970. The Anthem ouput's 1280 x720/60, which is the highest resolution my panel will accept.


Also, anyone have success getting a DirecTV HR10-250 TiVO unit to output 1080i and get a picture? I only get a picture when I output 720p to the Anthem.


Thanks for any help.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lumikola* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque, do you have any documents that prove this approach from Rotel. I'm using Rotel RMB-1077 (D class 7x100W) with Anthem D2 and it's working perfectly. D2 does the job and 1077 doesn't change anything. I've heard and owned other Rotels and they sound very good, but 1077 is by far the most pleasing experience so far.



I'm also using the Rotel RMB-1077 and it is definitely not laid back. The 1077 is of course a totally different design than the 1075 and is IcePower (modified Class D). I'm not sure anyone would want to make a Class D design laid back, anyway.


The stereo and monoblock versions are even better. Must... upgrade... soon...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This thread is just amazing, and I've read a lot of it, but I'm still working my way through the manual... and this thread.
> 
> 
> I can't seem to get my Oppo970 to work with the AVM50. I get bars on the side and the picuture is "squished" sideways. I have the output at 480i from the 970. The Anthem ouput's 1280 x720/60, which is the highest resolution my panel will accept.
> 
> 
> Also, anyone have success getting a DirecTV HR10-250 TiVO unit to output 1080i and get a picture? I only get a picture when I output 720p to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help.



Re your Tivo problem: You could have a cabling problem with your DirecTivo, but the most likely explanation is that you've been bitten by the now infamous 1080i/1080p bug that has affected a small but significant number of owners using the V1.10 or V1.11 software.


Talk to Anthem tech support and they will likely email you the V1.11e test software to eliminate this as the possible cause.


Re your Oppo problem: Tell the Oppo that you have a 16:9 TV. Set the Oppo so that 4:3 content fills the 16:9 screen side to side. (4:3 content will be on DVDs of old movies and also on DVDs of TV shows). Although this appears to stretch such content, in fact it is telling the Oppo to do nothing to the data coming off the disc. The pixels are just interpreted as fatter.


Now tell the Anthem to leave this data untouched. Do that in the Video Source Adjust menu for your Oppo input. Select the Oppo input on the Anthem and then press and hold the "7" key on the Anthem remote until that menu comes on screen. Scroll over to the Scale Out panel and then scroll down and Select "Anamorphic" as the scaling option.


Please note: The V1.10 and V1.11 software has a bug which causes the Scale Out setting to change unexpectedly at power up for the input that happens to be selected at power up. Just go into Video Source Adjust / Scale Out and reset your desired setting as necessary.

--Bob


----------



## zoestanley

i am building a new house and therefore a new home theater room (18x30). in my research for components and speakers i have found the d2 to be the most intriguing and cutting edge a/v component i have found. my question is regarding how the d2 will work with the b&w 703s i anticipate buying and which amp will work best with a (subdued) speaker system like the b&ws, and the d2. i agree with prior posts that test driving these components would be impossible as the anthem dealers are few and far between and don't seem to have any d2s on hand (and they dont carry b&w). any thoughts would be appreciated. i love the openness of this thread.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Quick update on my OSD issue with Setup Menu:


Nick had me go through and do some very specific things with the OSD/Setup menu. Some of the things he asked me to try seemed to work, others didn't.


The most interesting was to connect an S-Video cable from the Z2 output to the Aux S-Video input and access the Setup menu via Zone2. Not only did the OSD not appear on screen, but it didn't appear on the front panel of the D2 either.


But things continue to get stranger. Since trying the things Nick asked me to try (none of which changed any of the settings I had), the OSD has been working perfectly for almost 2 days now!










2 days ago, the OSD came up looking like it should (in color). Then it slowly started to have horizontal lines going through it, then it started "shaking", turned to black and white, and then disappeared completely, leaving a blank blue screen!










After explaining this to Nick, and trying the steps he asked me to try, he has very generously offered to completely replace my unit! The positive feedback that others have discussed in this thread regarding Anthem's customer support is 100% on the money. I have been very impressed. Nick has been great to work with. Very patient, responsive, and professional!


At this point I told Nick that I will play with my D2 over the weekend to see how the OSD behaves. Weird electric things like this have been known to happen, and resolve themselves. About 6 months ago my prior DLP projector started getting weird looking lines going through the screen on a regular basis. It was happening regularly for about 2 or 3 weeks. The night before I was going to pack it up and mail it to the manufacturer for repair, it worked perfectly. I decided to not send it in, to see if the problem came back. It never did.


We will see if I get as lucky with this OSD issue.


I am concerned that the OSD for the Setup menu didn't come up at all for Z2 though, even on the D2's front panel.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick update on my OSD issue with Setup Menu:
> 
> 
> Nick had me go through and do some very specific things with the OSD/Setup menu. Some of the things he asked me to try seemed to work, others didn't.
> 
> 
> The most interesting was to connect an S-Video cable from the Z2 output to the Aux S-Video input and access the Setup menu via Zone2. Not only did the OSD not appear on screen, but it didn't appear on the front panel of the D2 either.
> 
> 
> But things continue to get stranger. Since trying the things Nick asked me to try (none of which changed any of the settings I had), the OSD has been working perfectly for almost 2 days now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 days ago, the OSD came up looking like it should (in color). Then it slowly started to have horizontal lines going through it, then it started "shaking", turned to black and white, and then disappeared completely, leaving a blank blue screen!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After explaining this to Nick, and trying the steps he asked me to try, he has very generously offered to completely replace my unit! The positive feedback that others have discussed in this thread regarding Anthem's customer support is 100% on the money. I have been very impressed. Nick has been great to work with. Very patient, responsive, and professional!
> 
> 
> At this point I told Nick that I will play with my D2 over the weekend to see how the OSD behaves. Weird electric things like this have been known to happen, and resolve themselves. About 6 months ago my prior DLP projector started getting weird looking lines going through the screen on a regular basis. It was happening regularly for about 2 or 3 weeks. The night before I was going to pack it up and mail it to the manufacturer for repair, it worked perfectly. I decided to not send it in, to see if the problem came back. It never did.
> 
> 
> We will see if I get as lucky with this OSD issue.
> 
> 
> I am concerned that the OSD for the Setup menu didn't come up at all for Z2 though, even on the D2's front panel.



Rob,

See if he will let you keep the one you have until you get the replacement.


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> as far as Logic 7 is concerned, the Anthems have their own version of that



They don't. Instead they have a Hafler-like ambience extraction mode with no adjustable parameters.


L7, when applied to discrete multi-channel sources (3.0 to 6.1 channels), will not only scale the 2 (or 3) surround channels to 4 outputs but will also steer any dual-mono content in the front L/R channels to the centre output (so you don't have to rely on phantom centre imaging when listening to multi-channel music). It will also steer decorrelated info in the front L/R channels to the surrounds, for movies like _'Forrest Gump'_ or _'Immortal Beloved'_, that have little-to-no information in the surround channels (but do contain ambience information in the front channels). The front and surround steering are user adjustable, along with 10 other parameters to customize the surround processing to your particular tastes.


PLII_x_ cannot do that when applied to multi-channel sources. AnthemLogic cannot even be applied to multi-channel sources. Just wanted to be clear on how differently they operate.


Sanjay


----------



## dseliger

Just wanted to drop a quick thank you note to everyone that has contributed to this thread...The information has been very valuable in helping me make my decision.


I just dropped my deposit down on my brand new D2 and it should arrive in this next 2 weeks!!


Looking forward to this upgrade! Coming from a Pioneer 49txi w/B&k Reference 200.7.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just dropped my deposit down on my brand new D2 and it should arrive in this next 2 weeks!!



You can look forward to a supply of these









when your D2 arrives


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zoestanley* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i am building a new house and therefore a new home theater room (18x30). in my research for components and speakers i have found the d2 to be the most intriguing and cutting edge a/v component i have found. my question is regarding how the d2 will work with the b&w 703s i anticipate buying and which amp will work best with a (subdued) speaker system like the b&ws, and the d2. i agree with prior posts that test driving these components would be impossible as the anthem dealers are few and far between and don't seem to have any d2s on hand (and they dont carry b&w). any thoughts would be appreciated. i love the openness of this thread.



zoestanley,


I have my D2 paired with AV123 Onix Rocket speakers, which are slightly "subdued" or neutral to slightly "warm" sounding speakers, and my system sounds great. The D2 gave my audio extra clarity and punch, is the best way I know to describe it. I think that the D2 will make ANY speaker sound better, assuming you have a decent amp.


----------



## zoestanley

any amp in particular that you would recommend? rotel, anthem, etc..


----------



## cpcat

Funny about this "rep" being rumored about Anthem amps being "bright" sounding.


Sonic Frontiers products were always known for being neutral to warm sounding AFAIK.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I listened to some two channel stereo last night. I was using a demo CD that my dealer gave me when I bought the D2 (it was also designed to help with speaker placement). Damn. Just incredible. The imaging was amazing. There is no question that I will be re-discovering my CD collection with the D2.


I do have a question. I was listening to the CD through my Pioneer Elite 59avi. Worked perfectly through HDMI. I then put on a DVD-A disc, but I couldn't get any sound. I checked the menu settings, and didn't see any obvious parameter that was set incorrectly.


Bob, do you still have your 59avi? What settings do I need to get DVD-A via HDMI?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

The 59avi is an HDMI V1.0 device -- one of the first HDMI devices. You need to use multi-channel analog connections for DVD-Audio with it.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I listened to some two channel stereo last night. I was using a demo CD that my dealer gave me when I bought the D2 (it was also designed to help with speaker placement). Damn. Just incredible. The imaging was amazing. There is no question that I will be re-discovering my CD collection with the D2.
> 
> 
> I do have a question. I was listening to the CD through my Pioneer Elite 59avi. Worked perfectly through HDMI. I then put on a DVD-A disc, but I couldn't get any sound. I checked the menu settings, and didn't see any obvious parameter that was set incorrectly.
> 
> 
> Bob, do you still have your 59avi? What settings do I need to get DVD-A via HDMI?




I used that Disk as my demo disk, when I was looking for new speakers. That first song, the female voice is to die for?


Michael


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You can look forward to a supply of these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when your D2 arrives




Its almost worth buying a D2 just to get those










I'll be sure to post again when it arrives!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> The 59avi is an HDMI V1.0 device -- one of the first HDMI devices. You need to use multi-channel analog connections for DVD-Audio with it.
> 
> --Bob



Oops!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I used that Disk as my demo disk, when I was looking for new speakers. That first song, the female voice is to die for?
> 
> 
> Michael



You aren't kidding! I also loved Rebecca Pidgeon's version of "Spanish Harlem"!


Funny, I was wondering if you got the same disc and had listened to it. Kevin has superb taste in music. I noticed this disc said "version 2" on it. I'd like to get version 1 if possible, and wouldn't mind paying for it.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Experts Please,


My D1-HD just arrived. What connections should I use.

Tivo series 3- HDMI or component/optical

SA 8300 HDMI or component/optical


The only way to hookup these are:


Denon 2900 Component/optical & multi channel analog

XBox 360HD Component/optical


I will also be grateful for any other beginner tips/tricks


Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Experts Please,
> 
> 
> My D1-HD just arrived. What connections should I use.
> 
> Tivo series 3- HDMI or component/optical
> 
> SA 8300 HDMI or component/optical
> 
> 
> The only way to hookup these are:
> 
> 
> Denon 2900 Component/optical & multi channel analog
> 
> XBox 360HD Component/optical
> 
> 
> I will also be grateful for any other beginner tips/tricks
> 
> 
> Thanks



For the SA 8300 I recommend COMPONENT and OPTICAL.

You have the rest correctly identified.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

What about the Tivo?


Thanks Dr.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What about the Tivo?
> 
> 
> Thanks Dr.



Sorry - I missed that.


Both the TiVo and 8300 are not the BEST behaved

HDMI citizens, which is why I recommended Component.


But if you do that - you might be out of component

inputs. Obviously you can do HDMI on those if you

want and see how it behaves. You will find longer channel

switching times and blue screens while HDMI handshake

happens as you switch inputs or channels.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zoestanley* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> any amp in particular that you would recommend? rotel, anthem, etc..



I really like my Sunfire Cinema 7, but there are a lot of good amps out there, and I have only listened to a handful. I'm sure that the Anthems are very good as well. You can find a lot of really good used amps on this forum and on Audiogon.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Thanks Dr.


I thought I read that but this thread is so massive it is hard to remember it all.


I just downloaded the 2 setup sofware programs, what a learning curve this is going to be.


Any settings recommended for my equipment going into my Sony KDF60XS955 720p/1080i TV.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Dr.
> 
> 
> Any settings recommended for my equipment going into my Sony KDF60XS955 720p/1080i TV.



I have no idea what the NATIVE resolution of

your Sony is - But that is what you should use.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have no idea what the NATIVE resolution of
> 
> your Sony is - But that is what you should use.



Native for that set is 1386 x 788, guess he'll have to do a Custom Setup or run 720p??


----------



## PooperScooper

And don't forget to calibrate after deciding on a resolution.


larry


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What about the Tivo?
> 
> 
> Thanks Dr.



For the Tivo S3 it is even more important to use component & optical/coax sound. You should also upgrade to 11e when you get a chance. You still may get caught w/o video on a very rare occasion but just back up to a menu and go forward and you'll be fine. 11e is much more stable with Tivo than other builds.


----------



## shah993

When I installed my HT the dealer at that time suggested 1 amp per channel for each of the LCR channels and one stereo amp for the surrounds.I therefor went along and got them but am wondering if it is overkill.I have Bryston 3B biamped per channelfeeding Martin logan SL3s .The sound is great.The reason I ask is I am thinking of going to 7.1 and instead of buying another amp would rather use the ones I have.Any thoughts will be appreciated.


----------



## thorr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I really like my Sunfire Cinema 7, but there are a lot of good amps out there, and I have only listened to a handful. I'm sure that the Anthems are very good as well. You can find a lot of really good used amps on this forum and on Audiogon.



I also love my Sunfire Cinema 7. I would recommend it to anyone, except they don't make them anymore. It is a perfect match to the Anthems including balanced XLR inputs. I tried an Anthem MCA-5 amp first and it sounded harsh. The Sunfire was an incredible step up.


Mike


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Re your Tivo problem: You could have a cabling problem with your DirecTivo, but the most likely explanation is that you've been bitten by the now infamous 1080i/1080p bug that has affected a small but significant number of owners using the V1.10 or V1.11 software.
> 
> 
> Talk to Anthem tech support and they will likely email you the V1.11e test software to eliminate this as the possible cause.
> 
> 
> Re your Oppo problem: Tell the Oppo that you have a 16:9 TV. Set the Oppo so that 4:3 content fills the 16:9 screen side to side. (4:3 content will be on DVDs of old movies and also on DVDs of TV shows). Although this appears to stretch such content, in fact it is telling the Oppo to do nothing to the data coming off the disc. The pixels are just interpreted as fatter.
> 
> 
> Now tell the Anthem to leave this data untouched. Do that in the Video Source Adjust menu for your Oppo input. Select the Oppo input on the Anthem and then press and hold the "7" key on the Anthem remote until that menu comes on screen. Scroll over to the Scale Out panel and then scroll down and Select "Anamorphic" as the scaling option.
> 
> 
> Please note: The V1.10 and V1.11 software has a bug which causes the Scale Out setting to change unexpectedly at power up for the input that happens to be selected at power up. Just go into Video Source Adjust / Scale Out and reset your desired setting as necessary.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I was hoping it wasn't the 1080i bug. My cabling is all component and works fine wth 720p output.


My bigger problem is my unit went "pop" at 1AM when I read your thread post yesterday and I wanted to try the amorphic scaling-I'm pretty sure that's it because it was working fine and then this happened after powering down and restarting the next day. My problem now, is after the "pop" there is no blue screen anymore. I get NO video output on any input!!! I was just getting it set up properly. Now I'm on vacation and can't get to it for a week.

The wife's going to really ride me for getting something this expensive and then it not working!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

aus,

Sorry to hear about your latest problem, but of course that's what warranties are for. Some percentage of all electronics will suffer an early failure.


Anthem tech support will help you through this.

--Bob


----------



## soapman72

Hi Guys,



It seems that my blue screen problem is not solved. I removed the NAD CD player from the top of the AVM50 as anthem suggested, and I still occasionally get the blue screens while watching a DVD over component inputs. I have a dv-79avi on the way which i will have connected with hdmi, but the component issue bothers me none the less. Anyone know if this issue is software related? I am hoping it is not hardware related, since sending the Anthem in will be a major pain.


BTW, I am still running v1.11 as shipped. Thanks!


Sean


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soapman72* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> 
> It seems that my blue screen problem is not solved. I removed the NAD CD player from the top of the AVM50 as anthem suggested, and I still occasionally get the blue screens while watching a DVD over component inputs. I have a dv-79avi on the way which i will have connected with hdmi, but the component issue bothers me none the less. Anyone know if this issue is software related? I am hoping it is not hardware related, since sending the Anthem in will be a major pain.
> 
> 
> BTW, I am still running v1.11 as shipped. Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sean



Both the V1.11e and the V1.11g test software versions contained fixes that improved Component video robustness per posters in this thread. If you pass on your current status to Anthem they will likely ask you to try one of these. V1.11e is the version currently reported to have the least overall problems, but since you are having a Component video problem they may ask you to try V1.11g or even a newer version.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer

I tried a search and didn't come up with anything..


I got a new remote, but it doesn't suport held commands..


Does anyone know if there is a discrete code for "Setup" and "Video Setup (7)?"


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tried a search and didn't come up with anything..
> 
> 
> I got a new remote, but it doesn't suport held commands..
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if there is a discrete code for "Setup" and "Video Setup (7)?"



I was not able to discover one, but I didn't look that long.


Harmony tech support was able to add them in to their database for my Harmony remote control.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer

Bob... you probably have no way to get me the hex code for that?


I will email Nick and see if he can send it along, and put it on their site...


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tried a search and didn't come up with anything..
> 
> 
> I got a new remote, but it doesn't suport held commands..
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if there is a discrete code for "Setup" and "Video Setup (7)?"



This question was bound to come up, as I was anticipating asking it myself. I had been using a MX-700 (which is going to be sold with my Parasound Pre/Pro) and I know that it will not support "held" commands such as those used for "Setup" and "Video" adjustment (7) either. It's too bad that Anthem couldn't just have used separate discrete buttons for these menus.


I loved my MX-700, and would be perfectly happy getting a new one, but I am more than willing to consider other recommendations (Pronto isn't for me...I must have "hard" buttons).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> (Pronto isn't for me...I must have "hard" buttons).



Pronto does have a new one with SOME Hard Buttons.


I'm a CRESTRON man







No Hard Buttons but it brews

my coffee for me as well as control my Theater!


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This question was bound to come up, as I was anticipating asking it myself. I had been using a MX-700 (which is going to be sold with my Parasound Pre/Pro) and I know that it will not support "held" commands such as those used for "Setup" and "Video" adjustment (7) either. It's too bad that Anthem couldn't just have used separate discrete buttons for these menus.
> 
> 
> I loved my MX-700, and would be perfectly happy getting a new one, but I am more than willing to consider other recommendations (Pronto isn't for me...I must have "hard" buttons).



Rob - OT, but I have an MX500 and have learned the held button 'Setup' from my AVM30 remote.


A single press on the MX500 button brings up the 'Subwoofer +/-' adjustment menu, a press and hold of the same button brings up 'Setup' menu - just like the Anthem remote.


Are you sure the MX700 can't do this?


----------



## cpcat

I have a HT Master remote which works for those keys. It learns them directly similar to the way the AVM50's remote will.


I'm not sure if the buttons are hard or soft.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob - OT, but I have an MX500 and have learned the held button 'Setup' from my AVM30 remote.
> 
> 
> A single press on the MX500 button brings up the 'Subwoofer +/-' adjustment menu, a press and hold of the same button brings up 'Setup' menu - just like the Anthem remote.
> 
> 
> Are you sure the MX700 can't do this?



Interesting.


When I programmed my MX-700, I added control for my light dimmers. The remote that came with the dimmers would need the button to be "held" if you wanted to bring the lights down to a certain level. Otherwise, one "push" of the button would turn them all the way on or all the way off.


I could never get the MX-700 to work by "holding" the button, despite several attempts to make it "learn" this.


It was on this basis that I assumed it wouldn't work with the D2's remote for "hold" buttons either, but it would sure be nice if I am wrong.


I still have the MX-700, so I may take it out of the box before I sell it to see if it will work..


----------



## PaulT_BC

FWIW with the MX500 I have been able to program other held buttons from other remotes as well. Such as Cable Box channel up/down and Volume up/down. Press and release does one channel at a time. Press and hold and the thing takes off like a rocket. Give it another try with the 700 before you get rid of it.


Once the MX700 is in Learn Mode, press and hold the Setup button on the Anthem remote and keep it pressed even thought the MX700 says OK or Learned or whatever it says when it reads the command OK. It 'should' read the extended command for 'Setup' and just fall back to the normal single button push as well.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FWIW with the MX500 I have been able to program other held buttons from other remotes as well. Such as Cable Box channel up/down and Volume up/down. Press and release does one channel at a time. Press and hold and the thing takes off like a rocket. Give it another try with the 700 before you get rid of it.
> 
> 
> Once the MX700 is in Learn Mode, press and hold the Setup button on the Anthem remote and keep it pressed even thought the MX700 says OK or Learned or whatever it says when it reads the command OK. It 'should' read the extended command for 'Setup' and just fall back to the normal single button push as well.



Great, thanks Paul. I will give this a try later tonight.


----------



## FilmMixer

^^^ Rob et al.. I actually got it to work with the hard buttons on the new remote, a Nevo SL.. They actually didn't have a button for Setup in their D2 template, but it shows up in their IR database...


The hard button works for the Video Setup using the IR for "7"... thanks for all of the repsonses.


----------



## bluemark81

Just read a pre-pro thread by Zissou who describes the 2 ch sound of Anthem's AVM/Statement preamps as horendous. Glad I'm not easily influenced by one person's opinion like all his followers seem to be in his thread. Very happy with my AVM50!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob... you probably have no way to get me the hex code for that?



Correct. Harmony keeps all that stuff in the user's database entry on their site. I don't get access to that.


It's not so much a discrete code as instructions to their remote as to how to handle the situation where the user holds that button down.

--Bob


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Both the V1.11e and the V1.11g test software versions contained fixes that improved Component video robustness per posters in this thread. If you pass on your current status to Anthem they will likely ask you to try one of these. V1.11e is the version currently reported to have the least overall problems, but since you are having a Component video problem they may ask you to try V1.11g or even a newer version.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks, Bob!


I'll update the software, I was just hoping they would get a non-beta update released before I needed to update mine. I would hate to have more issues than I currently do, because of a beta software download. The blue screens don't happen EVERY time I sit down to watch a movie, and when they do, they are brief, but considering I just dropped nearly 5K on a processor, it would be nice if it were glitch free.


Anyway, this forum is awesome, and you guys are great! LOTS of knowledge here. Thanks again!










Sean


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just read a pre-pro thread by Zissou who describes the 2 ch sound of Anthem's AVM/Statement preamps as horendous. Glad I'm not easily influenced by one person's opinion like all his followers seem to be in his thread. Very happy with my AVM50!



I had been using a Meridian 508.24 CD player via balanced outs through a Placette balanced passive linestage. I replaced this with a first-gen Sony DVD player used as a CD transport feeding the AVM50 via coaxial digital input. At least with the time I've had auditioning to this point, I can't say the SQ has suffered at all.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Does anyone have Nick's email address, thanks


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting.
> 
> 
> When I programmed my MX-700, I added control for my light dimmers. The remote that came with the dimmers would need the button to be "held" if you wanted to bring the lights down to a certain level. Otherwise, one "push" of the button would turn them all the way on or all the way off.
> 
> 
> I could never get the MX-700 to work by "holding" the button, despite several attempts to make it "learn" this.
> 
> 
> It was on this basis that I assumed it wouldn't work with the D2's remote for "hold" buttons either, but it would sure be nice if I am wrong.
> 
> 
> I still have the MX-700, so I may take it out of the box before I sell it to see if it will work..



Like said earlier, the MX-700 works just fine with the D2. I've yet to run into any problems. What D2 remote function don't you think will work?


larry


----------



## ANSEK

Has there been confirmation the AVM50 and D2 will be able to upgrade to the new Gennum 9351 chip?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has there been confirmation the AVM50 and D2 will be able to upgrade to the new Gennum 9351 chip?



The Manufacturer of the chip - Gennum - says it is a pin for pin

replacement for the 9350 because the 9350 is no longer made.


----------



## TreborS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has there been confirmation the AVM50 and D2 will be able to upgrade to the new Gennum 9351 chip?



They told me no.


They also asked me where in the heck I found out about the 9351.


They also said it's 60 day wait.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 has more DSP which _may_ be used for future features (room eq, etc.) and also upconverts everything internally to 24/192k for processing. As it stands, I don't think the AVM's or D2 will ever internally decode DTS HD... but that's a moot point, as all that is required is decoding inside the player.
> 
> 
> TureHD is already in the picture if you have an HDMI equiped processor... it is decoded to PCM in the player and passed along to the proc.. all of the new codecs must be converted to PCM prior to processing (bass management, time delay, etc.) and in regards to the new optical formats, I see no benefit to doing it in the processor over doing it in the player.
> 
> 
> Also, as far as HD DVD goes, 99% of the titles out there now will not pass the lossy or lossless HD codecs over HDMI as bitstreams because they are authored in the advanced format.
> 
> 
> And as far as Logic 7 is concerned, the Anthems have their own version of that in addition to Dolby PLIIx.
> 
> 
> As a side note, while the Anthems (current models) will never accept 7.1 inputs on the HDMI ports, I am firmly in the camp that believes that discrete 7.1 trakcs will be indecernable from 5.1 extractions using DPLIIx.... why? If I want to pan something to the back center of the room, and I am using stereo surrounds, I will get the signal in both the LS and RS channel.. If I use a DPLIIx decoder, and have a 6.1 or 7.1 setup, it will end up on the CS area... since the decoder doesn't have to worry about a surround channel like straight DPL does (i.e. decoding and LCRS from LtRt), it doesn't suffer from as many steering artifacts, and should be hard to discern from discret LS LSB RSB RS sources...
> 
> 
> Although I am working on some 7.1 tracks myself, this once again, in my opinion, is a lot of marketing that ends up making consumers nervous.... in the same way that HDMI 1.3 does.
> 
> 
> Don't believe the hype



Great post!


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting.
> 
> 
> When I programmed my MX-700, I added control for my light dimmers. The remote that came with the dimmers would need the button to be "held" if you wanted to bring the lights down to a certain level. Otherwise, one "push" of the button would turn them all the way on or all the way off.
> 
> 
> I could never get the MX-700 to work by "holding" the button, despite several attempts to make it "learn" this.
> 
> 
> It was on this basis that I assumed it wouldn't work with the D2's remote for "hold" buttons either, but it would sure be nice if I am wrong.
> 
> 
> I still have the MX-700, so I may take it out of the box before I sell it to see if it will work..



I have an MX-700 and a D1 as well as a Lutron dimmer. I had no problems programming for either the D1 or the dimmer. I can e-mail you my MX-700 file if you would like. Please contact me via a PM on this fourm and I will see about sending them to you when I get home later this evening.


In addition, go to www.remotecentral.com and you can find both Anthem and different dimmer setups that peolple have already programmed for the MX-700.


Mike


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone have Nick's email address, thanks



Go to the first post in this thread... it is on the second line of that post.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Like said earlier, the MX-700 works just fine with the D2. I've yet to run into any problems. What D2 remote function don't you think will work?
> 
> 
> larry



Based on my post above, I didn't think any of the functions that required you to "hold" a button would work, since I could never get that to work for my light dimmers.


I was wrong though, because I tried it last night, and sure enough, I got it to work!










My MX-700 is going to be sold with my Parasound C2 though, so I am considering my options for a new universal remote, and am open to suggestions. As much as I loved the MX-700, it is no longer made so I may go with a MX-850, 900, or 950.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have an MX-700 and a D1 as well as a Lutron dimmer. I had no problems programming for either the D1 or the dimmer. I can e-mail you my MX-700 file if you would like. Please contact me via a PM on this fourm and I will see about sending them to you when I get home later this evening.
> 
> 
> In addition, go to www.remotecentral.com and you can find both Anthem and different dimmer setups that peolple have already programmed for the MX-700.
> 
> 
> Mike



Thanks Mike, I appreciate that! If I get another MX-700 I will definitely take you up on your offer.


----------



## Mark Lem

OK, going to go with a D2. I'm mainly HT, but do enjoy throwing on a CD now and then as well. My system is 10 years old and am upgrading my whole system so now am wondering what you use for CD player or just CD transport (if the DAC's in the D2 beat all else).


AM updating to a new HD or BD dvd player as well. Will the HD XA2 serve OK as a CD player/transport?


Thanks in advance...Mark


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Rob,


Search on ebay I found one there after I sold my halo stuff. This is a great remote.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Mark- Congrats, you are going to LOVE it!










Bill- last time I looked on eBay, I didn't see any MX-700's for sale. I will keep my eye open though. Another ex Halo user, huh?


Edit: actually there are 2 listed right now.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

The halo stuff while beautiful to look at never sounded that good to me.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The halo stuff while beautiful to look at never sounded that good to me.



In _hindsight_ (now having spent time with the D2), I have to agree with you. On it's own, though, I thought it was great. I had no idea.........


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My MX-700 is going to be sold with my Parasound C2 though, so I am considering my options for a new universal remote, and am open to suggestions. As much as I loved the MX-700, it is no longer made so I may go with a MX-850, 900, or 950.




Rob,


If you can hold out a bit longer, URC will be selling a couple new remotes. One will be an MX-810 which is RF capable, software programable, and should list for $400.00. This remote is unlike anything they have done before, and will feature a color LCD, very nice. It looks like it may fit between the current MX-850 and MX-900.


The other which I am aware of is a URC R70. Cosmetically, it is identical to the MX-810. The URC R70 remote will not offer the software you currently use (MX-810 will), as it is "wizard" based, similar to Harmony programming, and will not offer RF capabilities. The URC R70 should list for $300.00.


Both of these remotes are late out of the gate, and should have been released already. Although, dealers are speculating roughly two more months for the MX-810, the URC R70 will follow shortly thereafter. Rumor has it, new URC software will be availabe with the pending releases.


Lastly, a good guy to buy from is Mike (also a member here), from surfremotecontrol.com If you call him, he is the guy answering the phone, is an authorized dealer, and was within a few dollars of Ebay prices when I purchased from him.


Here is a link to a photo of the URC R70, which again, looks identical to the MX-810. http://www.remotecentral.com/wn000076.htm 


Hope this helps


Mark


----------



## Fishysan

Yatchatks - thanks for the info. Will the MX-810 work with existing RF receivers ( such as the 250? I have two MX-850s now ).


Then again I might sell one MX-850 with the receiver, and buy a new 810 w receiver if the receiver also works with the 850.


----------



## hantman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soapman72* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob!
> 
> 
> I'll update the software, I was just hoping they would get a non-beta update released before I needed to update mine. I would hate to have more issues than I currently do, because of a beta software download. The blue screens don't happen EVERY time I sit down to watch a movie, and when they do, they are brief, but considering I just dropped nearly 5K on a processor, it would be nice if it were glitch free.
> 
> 
> Anyway, this forum is awesome, and you guys are great! LOTS of knowledge here. Thanks again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sean



Beware - I upgraded to 1.11g and the blue screens continue. They are replacing mine, believing it to be a hardware problem.


----------



## Fishysan

That's too bad hantman..










Good news for me on my front though. I got 1.11e from Nick last week.


Got a chance to update the unit. That went well, apps to do it where all nice.


I followed the great tips here. Though I didn't need to, I reset it to factory just to keep everything really smooth. However, the one thing I didn't realize till after was that the scaler settings are not saved by the setup utility - you have to use Live Video Editor to download scaler settings and save. So I lost those. Thankfully I just used the Live editor to re-input everything as I'd written things down.


After the updating, component 1080i worked (xbox360) and my HTPC recognized the D2 as it seems to now issue proper EDID information, and I got it working over HDMI in 1080p/60 nicely.


My PS3 still works nicely (haven't watched any full movies yet though) and the 8300HD still works fine with HDMI too. ( I don't channel flip - just watch recorded HD 720p or 1080i so don't mind any resync )


Everything is working swimmingly with my D














- wooohoo!










If only I'd get my RS1 back so I could watch some CIH HD stuff now that I have the D2 all setup!










Ciao.


----------



## TreborS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishysan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> and the 8300HD still works fine with HDMI too. ( I don't channel flip - just watch recorded HD 720p or 1080i so don't mind any resync )



Can someone elaborate, provide links to this issue? About to set up the 8300HD under a AVM 50. Thanks


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 
> If you can hold out a bit longer, URC will be selling a couple new remotes. One will be an MX-810 which is RF capable, software programable, and should list for $400.00. This remote is unlike anything they have done before, and will feature a color LCD, very nice. It looks like it may fit between the current MX-850 and MX-900.
> 
> 
> The other which I am aware of is a URC R70. Cosmetically, it is identical to the MX-810. The URC R70 remote will not offer the software you currently use (MX-810 will), as it is "wizard" based, similar to Harmony programming, and will not offer RF capabilities. The URC R70 should list for $300.00.
> 
> 
> Both of these remotes are late out of the gate, and should have been released already. Although, dealers are speculating roughly two more months for the MX-810, the URC R70 will follow shortly thereafter. Rumor has it, new URC software will be availabe with the pending releases.
> 
> 
> Lastly, a good guy to buy from is Mike (also a member here), from surfremotecontrol.com If you call him, he is the guy answering the phone, is an authorized dealer, and was within a few dollars of Ebay prices when I purchased from him.
> 
> 
> Here is a link to a photo of the URC R70, which again, looks identical to the MX-810. http://www.remotecentral.com/wn000076.htm
> 
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> 
> Mark



Thanks Mark, very helpful indeed. The MX-810 does sound interesting. Whether I will be able to hold out for another 2 months is another question though!


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Lem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> AM updating to a new HD or BD dvd player as well. Will the HD XA2 serve OK as a CD player/transport?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance...Mark



Just ordered the XA2 so I can tell you in a few days, at least as far as the AVM50 is concerned.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

The MX-700 or 850 will do what ever I need plus I have the upgradeable software. I could not last without it. It replaces 4 remotes has hard buttons and no color lcd screens who could need more


----------



## billatlakegeorge

On another note I emailed support both Sunday and today and no response.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The MX-700 or 850 will do what ever I need plus I have the upgradeable software. I could not last without it. It replaces 4 remotes has hard buttons and no color lcd screens who could need more



What are the main differences between the 700 and 850?


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What are the main differences between the 700 and 850?



RF mainly and new style centre button.


700
http://www.universalremote.com/produ...l.php?model=46 

850
http://www.universalremote.com/produ...l.php?model=38


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> RF mainly and new style centre button.
> 
> 
> 700
> http://www.universalremote.com/produ...l.php?model=46
> 
> 850
> http://www.universalremote.com/produ...l.php?model=38



There is a great remote forum here on AVS










Note: The big issue with URC is to buy from an authorized dealer or you will NOT get software downloads, editors or updated firmware, no matter how hard you try.


Note 2: Note I had a wink above, the 850 is one of the best all around remotes, but it does not have all the code learning functionality if you need it (like JVC projector hold downs). I miss the 850 operated on batteries given the 950 has to be power cradled every few days even with negligible use. We still use the 850s for some work applications, but are being phased out because of some support issues.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is a great remote forum here on AVS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: The big issue with URC is to buy from an authorized dealer or you will NOT get software downloads, editors or updated firmware, no matter how hard you try.



That's not true.. there is a link on their installer support page that lets anybody with a serial number download the latest software... they just don't allow for live updates anymore.

URC Download Page


----------



## PaulT_BC

We're drifting away it seems










Sort of back on topic, while waiting with anticipation for the AVM30 - 50 upgrade I purchased an A5.

Nice piece of gear - at least this refers to Anthem


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is a great remote forum here on AVS



Point taken.










And thanks for indulging my OT discussion for a bit. And thanks to those who have PM'ed me on this issue as well.....they were helpful!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's not true.. there is a link on their installer support page that lets anybody with a serial number download the latest software... they just don't allow for live updates anymore.
> 
> URC Download Page



Have you tried with a serial number from an unauthorized dealer? Have you tried more than once? Don't even think of trying this with a newer remote that usually takes multiple software downloads (many more updates than Anthem) to get it right. Note even for authorized dealer users it requires redownloading most of the time to get an update vs live update anymore.


----------



## FilmMixer

Tim.. I have an unathorized TX-1000 from ebay... I have downloaded at least 4 different times..


----------



## rudolpht

FM, thanks for the heads up. You beat the system better than me. I sold off twi 850s because of the inane policy.


----------



## Mark Lem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just ordered the XA2 so I can tell you in a few days, at least as far as the AVM50 is concerned.




Thanks a bunch, let me know, seems my question got lost in the sauce with the remote topic.


Just found out RS1 is on the way, so I need to act this week on a HD or BD player connected to D2. TO refresh, my question is I need a solution for CD music, and also need either HD or BD dvd player. Any comments on using the XA2 as a cd player or transport to D2 (am I correct that BD does not play CD's)...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Lem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks a bunch, let me know, seems my question got lost in the sauce with the remote topic.
> 
> 
> Just found out RS1 is on the way, so I need to act this week on a HD or BD player connected to D2. TO refresh, my question is I need a solution for CD music, and also need either HD or BD dvd player. Any comments on using the XA2 as a cd player or transport to D2 (am I correct that BD does not play CD's)...



I believe you are correct - BD players do not play CDs.


However with that said - I think the Panny might. But

I don't know for sure. In my decision tree - the Video

quality [1080p/24] was #1 priority on my buying decision

list, which is why I waited for the Pioneer BDP-HD1.


Don't tell me you don't have some OLD PLAYER hanging

around? I have a 10 year old SONY DVD player I use

for that.


BTW - WHEN I went to the CES Show in Las Vegas - the

Blu-Ray Standards organization says Blu-Ray players are

suppose to play CDs. But for some reason - they don't.


----------



## Mark Lem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe you are correct - BD players do not play CDs.
> 
> 
> However with that said - I think the Panny might. But
> 
> I don't know for sure. In my decision tree - the Video
> 
> quality [1080p/24] was #1 priority on my buying decision
> 
> list, which is why I waited for the Pioneer BDP-HD1.
> 
> 
> Don't tell me you don't have some OLD PLAYER hanging
> 
> around? I have a 10 year old SONY DVD player I use
> 
> for that.
> 
> 
> BTW - WHEN I went to the CES Show in Las Vegas - the
> 
> Blu-Ray Standards organization says Blu-Ray players are
> 
> suppose to play CDs. But for some reason - they don't.



I do have an old Sony 7700 dvd, but my thinking was that the DAC's in that player might be inferior to the D2. OTOH I am more the HT enthusiast than music. I believe it does have an optical out, though...


Not to start a BD vs. HD off topic thread, but my real hesitence on buying the Pioneer player over an XA2 is 1) BD standard is going to change at end of year, what impact does that have on the current players, and 2) is the Pioneer BD comparable to the XA2 in playing SD dvd's.


----------



## Fishysan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TreborS* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can someone elaborate, provide links to this issue? About to set up the 8300HD under a AVM 50. Thanks



It's just that in general many advise to use the various cable/sat boxes via component as they tend to be flaky and misbehave when it comes to HDMI protocols and the like.


They often work, but some who channel surf (actively change channels that have different resolutions - 480i,720p, 1080i, etc. ) find they get HDMI handshake delays or annoyances. If you loose your HDMI handshake on the D2 you get the "no signal" blue screen (or black if you set it to that) for a flash.


I wanted to try it via HDMI anyway to just have one cable and all that. I've not had any problems and since I only watch recorded HD content and don't channel change, I'm OK with the resync when I select a different recorded show to watch 45mins later.


That being said - I might end up switching to component because the 8300HD gives you a hard time when using any other connector, even the coax channel 3/4 oldschool output when an HDMI connection is in use.. very annoying. This has nothing to do with the D2 however - I had that before the D2. My wife uses the 8300HD PVR for SD recorded stuff remotely over a long coax run (quality doesn't matter).


I think there are links at the beginning of the thread that point to Tivo/8300HD type posts..


Hope this helps.


----------



## TreborS

Anthem just sent out a email to their dealers stating they are backordered and will be resuming shipments of D2s and AVM50s in about 10-14 days.


Anyone know where I can get a AVM50 or a D2 quickly? Do any dealers have these in stock in the southeast? I need one in less than 8 days. NC/SC/VA/GA/TN area?


----------



## Fishysan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On another note I emailed support both Sunday and today and no response.



Depending on how busy they are it can take a day or two - they have to catch up with all of us firing emails at them over the weekend on Monday!










I've got various different response times depending on what it was about - some same day when already in a support situation, and for new stuff, or inquiries might be a few days. But who knows, that's just my impression/illusion.


They'll fix you up, don't worry.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here's an odd one for people keeping track of strange behavior from cable TV boxes. I have a Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR which happens to have two tuners that independently buffer and record. You "Swap" to change from using one tuner to the other. This box happens to be on the latest Comcast software and Motorola firmware (as reported in the Wikipedia article on these Motolora HD-DVRs). I use HDMI for video and optical cable for audio from this box. I'm beginning to believe I have more nuisance issues with HDMI handshaking when using one tuner as opposed to the other tuner.


There's no logical reason why this should be the case. Go figur....

--Bob


----------



## Mr. Foo

The Panny BD player DOES play CD's. I have one and use it myself for my CD transport.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Lem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks a bunch, let me know, seems my question got lost in the sauce with the remote topic.
> 
> 
> Just found out RS1 is on the way, so I need to act this week on a HD or BD player connected to D2. TO refresh, my question is I need a solution for CD music, and also need either HD or BD dvd player. Any comments on using the XA2 as a cd player or transport to D2 (am I correct that BD does not play CD's)...


----------



## Mr. Foo

Let me be one new user to chime in and say that I have had ZERO problems with my AVM50, which I have had for a few weeks now.


The rattling around I heard, as reported earlier, was a loose screw that my dealer, authorized to service the units, opened up and quickly resolved.


I am continuously amazed by the sound and picture quality of this unit, this coming from a former VP50 and Aragon Stage One user. Setup was a breeze, not one hiccup.


Very happy with my purchase. My only possible regret is not holding out for a D2, but I'll revisit that sometime in the future.


One comment that I'd like to make regarding the previous discussion on amps. I can highly recommend the Aragon 8008 and Paladium line of amps as an affordable alternative, which were made before the Klipsch buyout. They represent the oldest pieces of equipment I have in my setup and each time I try to upgrade them, they end up winning out over their challenger. The only other amps that have sounded better to me (including the Anthems) were the Bryston's, which are in another price echelon altogether.


Something to consider - used 8008x5's run about $1500 to $2000 on Audiogon.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Lem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not to start a BD vs. HD off topic thread, but my real hesitence on buying the Pioneer player over an XA2 is 1) BD standard is going to change at end of year, what impact does that have on the current players, and 2) is the Pioneer BD comparable to the XA2 in playing SD dvd's.



1) The BD-J spec for Blu-ray will only affect the interactive extra features....if that is important to you, you should wait.. 2) The XA2 has a very good reputation for upscaling, but I doubt it would beat a 480i signal straight to the Anthem's Gennum for deinterlacing and scaling.


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Foo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am continuously amazed by the sound and picture quality of this unit, this coming from a former VP50 and Aragon Stage One user. Setup was a breeze, not one hiccup... I can highly recommend the Aragon 8008 and Paladium line of amps as an affordable alternative, which were made before the Klipsch buyout. They represent the oldest pieces of equipment I have in my setup and each time I try to upgrade them, they end up winning out over their challenger. The only other amps that have sounded better to me (including the Anthems) where the Bryston's, which are in another price echelon altogether.



What speakers are you using if you don't mind me asking?


My current pre-amp and amps are also from Mondial Designs (Acurus ACT-3 prepro and A200x3 and A100x2 amps) and am considering upgrading [eventually] to a D1/D2 and the P5 amp. I'm happy to hear that you heard a large quality difference since your old equipment is already considerably better than my current stuff!










Edit: My current speakers are Paradigm S8/C5/ADP with a Servo-15.


kal


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I have emailed Anthem customer support twice, sunday & monday, and no return email. Is it better to call or do they require a few days to respond.


----------



## rrebo

I just had installed an JVC RS1 and a D2. I have a Pio 59 dvd via hdmi which is working fine. My Toshiba A2 via hdmi cannot negotiate properly with the D2/RS1 combo and I get no picture or sound. The A2 has the latest firmware and the D2 has 1.11j firmware. Have tried everything I could think of. Any ideas?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Lem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I do have an old Sony 7700 dvd, but my thinking was that the DAC's in that player might be inferior to the D2. OTOH I am more the HT enthusiast than music. I believe it does have an optical out, though...
> 
> 
> Not to start a BD vs. HD off topic thread, but my real hesitence on buying the Pioneer player over an XA2 is 1) BD standard is going to change at end of year, what impact does that have on the current players, and 2) is the Pioneer BD comparable to the XA2 in playing SD dvd's.



I have the same Sony 7700 - why do you need DACs.

The signal on the CD is digital and you send it out

digitally over Fiber Cable to the DACs in the D2.


NONE of the Toshiba's output 1080p/24. I have had

the Toshiba HD-A1 for over a year now - aka DAY ONE.


I have not bought a HD DVD since December 2006 when

I got the Pioneer.


FORGET about which technology - JUST LOOK AT THE

CONTENT. That is why I have not bought a HD DVD

since December. MUCH MUCH MUCH More is available

on BD and the PQ is Better because of the TRUE 1080p/24.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have emailed Anthem customer support twice, sunday & monday, and no return email. Is it better to call or do they require a few days to respond.



IF YOU DO CALL - you get a person to HELP

YOU IMMEDIATELY.


Which would you say is BETTER?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Foo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am continuously amazed by the sound and picture quality of this unit, this coming from a former VP50 and Aragon Stage One user. Setup was a breeze, not one hiccup.
> 
> 
> Very happy with my purchase. .




Hello Mr. Foo - then you need a SUPPLY of THESE


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have emailed Anthem customer support twice, sunday & monday, and no return email. Is it better to call or do they require a few days to respond.



They do respond to emails (way more promptly than most places) but for quickest action, given them a call.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rrebo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just had installed an JVC RS1 and a D2. I have a Pio 59 dvd via hdmi which is working fine. My Toshiba A2 via hdmi cannot negotiate properly with the D2/RS1 combo and I get no picture or sound. The A2 has the latest firmware and the D2 has 1.11j firmware. Have tried everything I could think of. Any ideas?



First of all, *V1.11j* firmware? This is the first report we've had of any version later than V1.11h. Are there any release notes indicating what it might have fixed and what might have been in any V1.11i version?


Now on your A2 problem: Of course you should talk to Anthem tech support and see if they have any suggestions, but the basics are to first unplug and examine the HDMI plugs and sockets at both ends with a flashlight looking for any signs of pin damage. If there are no such signs, then try hooking the A2 directly to your TV to verify that its HDMI output is working at all. As always, be gentle when making your HDMI connections, but make sure that the plugs are FULLY inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets with no stress (cable weight for example) to the side.


If that's OK, then try the A2 through the Anthem with the A2 set to 480p resolution and playing a standard DVD disc. This is the least demanding HDMI connection for the A2.


Let's start with that and see if anything suggests itself.


==================================================


EDITED TO ADD: A few D2 settings to check. In the D2's Setup / Source Select for the A2 input, verify that HDMI Repeater=NO and Auto Dig=NO are both set. Back out of the Setup menu. With the A2 input selected, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7") key. Scroll to the Output panel and then down the Frame Lock line and verify that Frame Lock = OFF is set. Then scroll over to the Info panel and see if it is reporting anything at all for input from the A2.

--Bob


----------



## rrebo

Thanks Bob. I'll try that once I get home. I did email Anthem tech support and Nick emailed me 1.11e firmware which I will also try tonight. BTW, Nick responded within 1/2 hour to my email. The D2 I bought was the demo unit that my installer had. I believe they had a problem with another device in their demo system and got a firmware fix for it. I will ask the installer more details about that.


Rick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rrebo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I'll try that once I get home. I did email Anthem tech support and Nick emailed me 1.11e firmware which I will also try tonight. BTW, Nick responded within 1/2 hour to my email. The D2 I bought was the demo unit that my installer had. I believe they had a problem with another device in their demo system and got a firmware fix for it. I will ask the installer more details about that.
> 
> 
> Rick



OK. Also ask the installer if the problem was specific to any one input on the D2, and then go check carefully for any pin damage on that input if that's the one you happen to be using. Demo units sometimes aren't treated with quite the care they should be.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Thanks guys Nick just sent me V1.11g for my issue with Tivo S3 of picture flickering to black every minute or 2 for a split second.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks guys Nick just sent me V1.11g for my issue with Tivo S3 of picture flickering to black every minute or 2 for a split second.



Did a Phone call get that to HAPPEN?


----------



## billatlakegeorge

No he answered my email. Now I have my laptop connected to the anthem via usb to db 9 and the puter can't find the anthem now what!!!


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I don't understand whythey don't have a usb vs. a db9 hookup on the anthem. Most people are not going to haul their desktop to their a/v room.


----------



## sfm

A CIH question for anyone that might know:


I have a D2 (since July of last year) paired with a Sharp Z20k DLP projector. Am thinking of a CIH setup using a Prismasonic lens. So I was experimenting with some 2.35 material to see if I could perform the necessary vertical stretch but with not much success.


Here's what I was attempting to do: I entered the "Crop Input" video menu and tried a "Custom Setting" using the vertical size slider but would always encounter a "Zoom limit reached!" error before the image was fully streched to fill the panel. I notice that the slider accelerates the longer you hold it so I even tried to move it very slowly (one click at a time) but it would always crap out (with the zoom limit reached!) error message before the image was streched completely. The number it crapped out on was not always the same as well. So what am I doing wrong?


My D2 firmware is 1.10... I can't install the 1.11 from the web site (get the boot loader error).


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks guys Nick just sent me V1.11g for my issue with Tivo S3 of picture flickering to black every minute or 2 for a split second.



You'll still do better with 11e and Component video + optical but YMMV. I assume you didn't try to see there was miniscule if any difference on the S3. A few of us learned the slow way. I'm surprised Nick sent g vs e, but if you don't have an XA2 g may work (just not as well as component video +optical or coax audio).


----------



## legacyrocks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you going from DVI to HDMI with the PC? The DVI Detective will not help establish a connection. Once you make the connection it works great to maintain it when switching sources. I had to have my PC source selected and boot the PC to establish a connection. Without the detective if I switched sources I would lose the PC connection and would have to reboot again.



Hi Randall. Glad I found this. This is exactly what I am trying to solve. I bought a DVI detective just to solve the switching problem and to have the correct resolution being communicated to my computer so I will see all the icons and buttons on the display - otherwise I have an overscan problem. But now I can't establish a connection. Before I had the DVI detective I had no problems with a connection but would always lose the connection when switching to another source. How did you get a connection and then get the DVI detective to work? Do you get a connection without the DVI detective and then connect it while everything is on? Don't think this is a good idea. Please tell me how you got the connection and the detective to work together.


Thanks


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legacyrocks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Randall. Glad I found this. This is exactly what I am trying to solve. I bought a DVI detective just to solve the switching problem and to have the correct resolution being communicated to my computer so I will see all the icons and buttons on the display - otherwise I have an overscan problem. But now I can't establish a connection. Before I had the DVI detective I had no problems with a connection but would always lose the connection when switching to another source. How did you get a connection and then get the DVI detective to work? Do you get a connection without the DVI detective and then connect it while everything is on? Don't think this is a good idea. Please tell me how you got the connection and the detective to work together.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I get a connection with or without the DVI Detective. Without the detective I lose the connection when switching sources. To establish the initial connection I had to have the D2 on with the source switched to HDMI 3(my computer). I use the CD source select on the D2(I wasn't using it for anything else). I first turn on the D2 and switch to CD. Next I turned on my computer and waited for it to boot. I did not get a picture until the computer was fully booted.


I can't remember exactly what I did with the DVI detective, but I just followed the directions. It was inline when the computer booted and then I plugged the DVI Detective into a power outlet. I think a light came on and then I unplugged it. I haven't lost connection since. I can reboot the computer and I get all the bootup screens displayed now.


If you can't boot without the detective then you probably have another problem. I was able to boot with my original firmware 1.11 but I am now using 1.11e.


Try disconnecting everything but your computer and then power off the D2. Power it back on and then boot the computer. If this works, turn it all back off and install the detective, then repeat the process.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't understand whythey don't have a usb vs. a db9 hookup on the anthem. Most people are not going to haul their desktop to their a/v room.



Just be aware that combination can be TROUBLE.


----------



## legacyrocks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I get a connection with or without the DVI Detective. Without the detective I lose the connection when switching sources. To establish the initial connection I had to have the D2 on with the source switched to HDMI 3(my computer). I use the CD source select on the D2(I wasn't using it for anything else). I first turn on the D2 and switch to CD. Next I turned on my computer and waited for it to boot. I did not get a picture until the computer was fully booted.
> 
> 
> I can't remember exactly what I did with the DVI detective, but I just followed the directions. It was inline when the computer booted and then I plugged the DVI Detective into a power outlet. I think a light came on and then I unplugged it. I haven't lost connection since. I can reboot the computer and I get all the bootup screens displayed now.
> 
> 
> If you can't boot without the detective then you probably have another problem. I was able to boot with my original firmware 1.11 but I am now using 1.11e.
> 
> 
> Try disconnecting everything but your computer and then power off the D2. Power it back on and then boot the computer. If this works, turn it all back off and install the detective, then repeat the process.



Ok. I will try it later tonight.


Thanks for the help!


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't understand whythey don't have a usb vs. a db9 hookup on the anthem. Most people are not going to haul their desktop to their a/v room.



Make sure that you have your drivers up to date...


Also, Nick recommended the IOGear adaptor to me.


----------



## Fishysan

FYI *legacyrocks* - I was unable to get my computer to recognize the D2 until I upgraded to 1.11e - as soon as I did that my video card recognized the D2's EDID codes and I was off to the races (via HDMI). That might help some of the issues? I know you had it working...


----------



## Fishysan

Hi sfm,


You should tell Anthem tech support that you can't upload 1.11 - they might have a newer one, or a solution. Hopefully you are using a serial cable on a proper COM port (say 1), etc. at 19200baud.


In regards to your CIH question, I'm doing just that. I've set mine up for various aspect ratio settings using the input memories ( DVD1 - DVD4, TV1 - TV4, etc.).


Are you maybe going the wrong way in the "Crop Input" screen? You are in the right place, under Custom. You must remember you are CROPPING an input, not "zooming". You crop the input, and based on your output settings it will scale the image to fit the output (which is say 1080p/60 etc. )


For example with 2.35, I have Horizontal Size set to 1920 and Vertical Size set to 818. I've left H & V Position as is ( 960 and 540 ).


Hope that helps.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A CIH question for anyone that might know:
> 
> 
> I have a D2 (since July of last year) paired with a Sharp Z20k DLP projector. Am thinking of a CIH setup using a Prismasonic lens. So I was experimenting with some 2.35 material to see if I could perform the necessary vertical stretch but with not much success.
> 
> 
> Here's what I was attempting to do: I entered the "Crop Input" video menu and tried a "Custom Setting" using the vertical size slider but would always encounter a "Zoom limit reached!" error before the image was fully streched to fill the panel. I notice that the slider accelerates the longer you hold it so I even tried to move it very slowly (one click at a time) but it would always crap out (with the zoom limit reached!) error message before the image was streched completely. The number it crapped out on was not always the same as well. So what am I doing wrong?
> 
> 
> My D2 firmware is 1.10... I can't install the 1.11 from the web site (get the boot loader error).


----------



## Fishysan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Make sure that you have your drivers up to date...
> 
> 
> Also, Nick recommended the IOGear adaptor to me.



Did it work well? No problems with the updater or Live Video editor?


I would love to use USB, but I just lugged a computer into the room to use a DB9 cable to be 110% sure..


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You'll still do better with 11e and Component video + optical but YMMV. I assume you didn't try to see there was miniscule if any difference on the S3. A few of us learned the slow way. I'm surprised Nick sent g vs e, but if you don't have an XA2 g may work (just not as well as component video +optical or coax audio).



I am using component/optical with all sources.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Is this the IOGear recommended.

http://www.iogear.com/main.php?loc=p...verter%20Cable 


You can't plug this into my D1-HD as it has the same screw nuts as the anthem.


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Make sure that you have your drivers up to date...
> 
> 
> Also, Nick recommended the IOGear adaptor to me.



Which drivers?


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is this the IOGear recommended.
> 
> http://www.iogear.com/main.php?loc=p...verter%20Cable
> 
> 
> You can't plug this into my D1-HD as it has the same screw nuts as the anthem.



Most likely the nuts come off. Most of the better cables have the nuts so you can daisy chain cables. You then remove the nuts to expose the screws for proper usage when no other cables are involved. YMMV


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am using component/optical with all sources.



Hmmm, then g should fix your erratic S3 picture. e still recommended, but you should be good.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A CIH question for anyone that might know:
> 
> 
> I have a D2 (since July of last year) paired with a Sharp Z20k DLP projector. Am thinking of a CIH setup using a Prismasonic lens. So I was experimenting with some 2.35 material to see if I could perform the necessary vertical stretch but with not much success.
> 
> 
> Here's what I was attempting to do: I entered the "Crop Input" video menu and tried a "Custom Setting" using the vertical size slider but would always encounter a "Zoom limit reached!" error before the image was fully streched to fill the panel. I notice that the slider accelerates the longer you hold it so I even tried to move it very slowly (one click at a time) but it would always crap out (with the zoom limit reached!) error message before the image was streched completely. The number it crapped out on was not always the same as well. So what am I doing wrong?
> 
> 
> My D2 firmware is 1.10... I can't install the 1.11 from the web site (get the boot loader error).



Works fine for me (1.11 or 1.11g). The crop input vertical size setting should be about 817 (1920/2.35) for 1080 sources.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My D2 firmware is 1.10... I can't install the 1.11 from the web site (get the boot loader error).



Just a Guess here - but I would guess you are using

a USB to Serial Adapter and NOT a real Serial Port.


----------



## Tolstoi

I tried a Mitsubishi HC5000BL in my setup. I find out that the HC5000BL accepts 24FPS even if it is not stated in the spec sheet. I managed to build a 24 FPS between the BDP-HD1 and the HC5000 through the D2. No sync issues neither judder, pretty cool. Meanwhile, at 24FPS, I was loosing the audio on HDMI and had to revert to audio on Coax.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tried a Mitsubishi HC5000BL in my setup. I find out that the HC5000BL accepts 24FPS even if it is not stated in the spec sheet. I managed to build a 24 FPS between the BDP-HD1 and the HC5000 through the D2. No sync issues neither judder, pretty cool. Meanwhile, at 24FPS, I was loosing the audio on HDMI and had to revert to audio on Coax.



I think the AUDIO dropping is a sync issue.


The video might not be jumping around but

the HDMI handshake can be causing the audio

dropouts.


Do you get the audio drop outs at 1080p/60?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a Guess here - but I would guess you are using
> 
> a USB to Serial Adapter and NOT a real Serial Port.



I have a True serial port and I was also unable to update from 1.10 to 1.11 last December (same problem - OKI boot loader). I just installed 1.11e a few weeks ago and it updated easily.


I think the first few versions (a, b) of 1.11 were for install problems such as mine.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A CIH question for anyone that might know:
> 
> 
> I have a D2 (since July of last year) paired with a Sharp Z20k DLP projector. Am thinking of a CIH setup using a Prismasonic lens. So I was experimenting with some 2.35 material to see if I could perform the necessary vertical stretch but with not much success.
> 
> 
> Here's what I was attempting to do: I entered the "Crop Input" video menu and tried a "Custom Setting" using the vertical size slider but would always encounter a "Zoom limit reached!" error before the image was fully streched to fill the panel. I notice that the slider accelerates the longer you hold it so I even tried to move it very slowly (one click at a time) but it would always crap out (with the zoom limit reached!) error message before the image was streched completely. The number it crapped out on was not always the same as well. So what am I doing wrong?
> 
> 
> My D2 firmware is 1.10... I can't install the 1.11 from the web site (get the boot loader error).



Make sure the Scale Out setting is set to "ANAMORPHIC" and not to "ZOOM". There is a bug in the V1.10 and V1.11 software which can cause your Scale Out setting to change unexpectedly at power up for the input that happens to be selected at power up. Just check it and set it back as necessary. A shortcut to change the Scale Out setting can be found by pressing and holding the Mode button on the remote.


The Scale Out / Zoom function should *NOT* be used for normal viewing, and in particular should not be used for CIH viewing.


You use Crop Input / Custom to frame that subset of the incoming video which is interesting to you. Scale Out / Anamorphic then stretches that cropped portion of the input horizontally and vertically as necessary to match the shape you have specified as your Setup / Video Output resolution.


See the "Fun with Custom Cropping/Scaling" links in the the collection of links in the first post in this thread for more details.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't understand whythey don't have a usb vs. a db9 hookup on the anthem. Most people are not going to haul their desktop to their a/v room.



The serial connection is primarily used for attaching custom remote control systems -- which are still predominantly serial.


When doing software installs, keep in mind that a true serial-serial connection is most reliable and has the least chance of having to deal with faulty computer driver software. USB/serial adapters can be on the peg for a LONG time, meaing that by the time you buy them, the drivers that are include with them can be out of date.


The serial connection used for software installs is low bandwidth. You should easily be able to get, say, a 50 foot serial-serial cable to work if necessary.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a True serial port and I was also unable to update from 1.10 to 1.11 last December (same problem - OKI boot loader). I just installed 1.11e a few weeks ago and it updated easily.
> 
> 
> I think the first few versions (a, b) of 1.11 were for install problems such as mine.



That is correct. Anthem had a problem with their installer application itself on some computers. The timing was off somehow and it couldn't communicate reliably with the various bits of the Anthem it was trying to update.


Some folks had better luck trying a different computer.


These problems were resolved around V1.11c of the test software.

--Bob


----------



## randman

Sorry if this has been discussed before, but I couldn't find a definitive solution (if there is one) to this problem. I also tried to search for "Tivo", and was getting a "not found" response (strange, because I know for a fact that Tivo was mentioned many times in the past). Anway, below is a description of my problem. If anyone has resolved this issue, please let me know. Sorry for the long post, but figured I'd provide as much detail as possible in case other folks have the same issues.



I have the Anthem Statement D2 running firmware version 1.11. My Tivo Series 3 (HD-Tivo) is connected to my D2 via HDMI (no other cables are used). My Tivo has software version 8.1.1.


My TiVo is configured to output the broadcast signal's "native" video mode to the D2. In other words, my TiVo will output whatever is the native resolution of the broadcast, whether it is 480i, 1080i, 720p, etc.


Many times, when I start watching a new program, one of two things will happen:


1. I get the Anthem "blue screen" and no longer see the output of the Tivo. To resolve the problem, I have to switch the D2 to another source (I usually switch to an analog source), and then I switch back the Tivo. Then, I can start watching my Tivo. Sometimes, this "switching source" trick doesn't work and I have to power off the D2 and power it back on. A very less seldom problem is that I don't get the blue screen, but I get the picture with wrong colors (as if I had selected the wrong display type in D2). When this happens, the only solution is to power on and off the D2.


2. Occasionally, when I start watching a new program, I see the picture, but I get no audio. The solution to this issue is to bring up the Tivo's menu, and hit the cursor up and down keys until I hear the audio (aside: the Tivo menu outputs at 720p resolution, if that makes a difference). Once I hear the Tivo sound effects while hitting the up and down cursor keys, then I can go back to the program, and usually, the audio comes back fine.



Note: once I start watching a Tivo recorded show, and it is displaying properly (and its audio is working properly), I have no problems whatsoever and can watch the entire show without any issues/problems. The aforementioned problems only happen when I first start watching the show (i.e. within a second or so of starting the show). If I start watching the show, and I have no problems, I can continue to watch the rest of the show without any problems whatsoever.


I believe that the aforementioned problems only occur if the recorded show that I want to watch is 480i. I don't recall having this problem if the recording that I want to watch is an HD show (e.g. 720p or 1080i).


Another issue I am having is as follows. I also have a Sony Playstation 3 (PS3) connected to my D2 via HDMI (and HDMI only). The PS3 works great with the D2. No problems using the PS3. However, I've noticed that sometimes, when I switch sources in the D2 to switch from the PS3 to the Tivo, I lose the picture. I haven't spent much time diagnosing this issue yet, but if I recall in the past, I either switched sources, or powered off/on my D2 to resolve the issue.


Any suggestions/fixes for these issues? I can always use component output from Tivo, but I really like using HDMI if that can be made to be reliable.


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

randman,

The Tivo S3 has some peculiarities in the way it deals with HDMI.


Anthem has worked around many of them. The V1.11e test software is reported here to work much better with the S3 -- although there are still occasional problems reported. Some posters have just resigned themselves to the S3 being too quirky and have switched to using Component video and optical audio cabling from it.


Note however, that some users have reported problems with the PS3 and the Anthem V1.11e software. I'm not sure where Anthem is in addressing that, and it is not universal -- some PS3 users have V1.11e and have no problems.


I'll add that my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR problems virtually vanished when I upgraded the HDMI cable between the Comcast and my D2. There is no good reason why this should happen, but I figure the HDMI output drivers in the Comcast were so shoddy that it took a perfect cable to give them a fighting chance of working.


I doubt the S3 HDMI driver circuits are that bad, but as part of addressing your problem, you should consider upgrading to a better/shorter HDMI cable.

--Bob


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Make sure the Scale Out setting is set to "ANAMORPHIC" and not to "ZOOM". There is a bug in the V1.10 and V1.11 software which can cause your Scale Out setting to change unexpectedly at power up for the input that happens to be selected at power up. Just check it and set it back as necessary. A shortcut to change the Scale Out setting can be found by pressing and holding the Mode button on the remote.
> 
> 
> The Scale Out / Zoom function should *NOT* be used for normal viewing, and in particular should not be used for CIH viewing.
> 
> 
> You use Crop Input / Custom to frame that subset of the incoming video which is interesting to you. Scale Out / Anamorphic then stretches that cropped portion of the input horizontally and vertically as necessary to match the shape you have specified as your Setup / Video Output resolution.
> 
> 
> See the "Fun with Custom Cropping/Scaling" links in the the collection of links in the first post in this thread for more details.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for all the suggestions, but I have tried everything my little brain can think to try and cannot get the slider down to a value where the image is streched completely to fill the panel... it actually errors out on a different value every time but I have never been able to get the value down past 860. I have tried with the scale out set to "anamorphic" and "letter/pillar box", etc. but to no avail.


The only two things that I haven't tried:


1) 1.11X software... 1.11 from the web site does not load for me (using my htpc with a true serial port). All previous versions have. I emailed a while ago for the latest beta but no response. Perhaps I'll email again.


2) I do use a gefen 2x2 hdmi switch between the D2 and the Sharp 20k and a Sony 34xs955. I have the HTPC running through the other input on the Gefen and it appears as if the Gefen reports the display capabilities based on the display device first powered up after power is applied to the Gefen switch (judging from the resolutions reported available by the htpc... when the sony is powered up first, the HTPC allows only up to 1080i for hdtv compatible resolutions, whereas if the pj is powered up first, the HTPC allows up to 1080p). I will remove the Gefen from the chain and see what happens.


Thanks again.


----------



## legacyrocks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishysan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FYI *legacyrocks* - I was unable to get my computer to recognize the D2 until I upgraded to 1.11e - as soon as I did that my video card recognized the D2's EDID codes and I was off to the races (via HDMI). That might help some of the issues? I know you had it working...



I got connection now. But if I change sources and go back to the computer input I have a green screen and loose picture connection. That is the main reason I bought the detective.My AVM 50 still shows the correct input resolution the DVI dectective was programed too but I have a green screen. Do you think I should upgrade to 1.11e. I was so happy that all my HDMI was working without upgrading to a new version. Anyone else have any ideas of what could cause this. I have tried messing around with the HDMI repeater and that makes no difference.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the suggestions, but I have tried everything my little brain can think to try and cannot get the slider down to a value where the image is streched completely to fill the panel... it actually errors out on a different value every time but I have never been able to get the value down past 860. I have tried with the scale out set to "anamorphic" and "letter/pillar box", etc. but to no avail.
> 
> 
> The only two things that I haven't tried:
> 
> 
> 1) 1.11X software... 1.11 from the web site does not load for me (using my htpc with a true serial port). All previous versions have. I emailed a while ago for the latest beta but no response. Perhaps I'll email again.
> 
> 
> 2) I do use a gefen 2x2 hdmi switch between the D2 and the Sharp 20k and a Sony 34xs955. I have the HTPC running through the other input on the Gefen and it appears as if the Gefen reports the display capabilities based on the display device first powered up after power is applied to the Gefen switch (judging from the resolutions reported available by the htpc... when the sony is powered up first, the HTPC allows only up to 1080i for hdtv compatible resolutions, whereas if the pj is powered up first, the HTPC allows up to 1080p). I will remove the Gefen from the chain and see what happens.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



There was a cryptic note in passing from Nick with one of the test software releases that it included a fix for CIH stuff. It's in this thread somewhere -- a search might find it. But since we've had absolutely no reports of problems with CIH until yours I didn't really pay attention.


I think you should give Anthem tech support a call and see what they say. This CIH stuff *DOES* work so it could be some simple operator error on your part, but I can't think what you might have done to make this happen. So maybe it really is a specific bug that Anthem actually fixed in a test software release.


While waiting, review those "Fun with Custom Cropping/Scaling" threads linked in the first post here and try some of the other experiments discussed in them. This may help you find the setting that's giving your grief (if there is one) or it may help you collect more info for Anthem so that they can better understand what's working and what's not working in this for you.

--Bob


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> randman,
> 
> The Tivo S3 has some peculiarities in the way it deals with HDMI.
> 
> 
> Anthem has worked around many of them. The V1.11e test software is reported here to work much better with the S3 -- although there are still occasional problems reported. Some posters have just resigned themselves to the S3 being too quirky and have switched to using Component video and optical audio cabling from it.
> 
> 
> Note however, that some users have reported problems with the PS3 and the Anthem V1.11e software. I'm not sure where Anthem is in addressing that, and it is not universal -- some PS3 users have V1.11e and have no problems.
> 
> 
> I'll add that my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR problems virtually vanished when I upgraded the HDMI cable between the Comcast and my D2. There is no good reason why this should happen, but I figure the HDMI output drivers in the Comcast were so shoddy that it took a perfect cable to give them a fighting chance of working.
> 
> 
> I doubt the S3 HDMI driver circuits are that bad, but as part of addressing your problem, you should consider upgrading to a better/shorter HDMI cable.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the info, Bob. I haven't tried v1.11e yet. I also sent email to Anthem to see what they would suggest. What's the latest beta version? 1.11g?


I use the Ultralink HD Pro HDMI Platinum cable, which others have recommended (I believe by Levesque as well). I use short (about 6") extension HDMI cables out of the D2 to protect the D2 HDMI inputs. I doubt changing the cables will help, although I've read interesting results in this thread when folks have replaced their cables.


I'm not quite ready to give up on HDMI yet.... but component would be my plan B (and would have the advantage of allowing me to also connect my Tivo S3 to my Slingbox via Slingbox's HD cable, in case it provides a better picture than my S2 Tivo... but, that's another story).


Thanks,


Randy


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Randy,

We've had one report here of software up to V1.11j. But so far, V1.11e seems to be the best of the "test software" versions.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randy,
> 
> We've had one report here of software up to V1.11j. But so far, V1.11e seems to be the best of the "test software" versions.
> 
> --Bob



Bob.


1.11j is so yesterday.







Greatest and latest is 1.11k for now.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob.
> 
> 
> 1.11j is so yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greatest and latest is 1.11k for now.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There was a cryptic note in passing from Nick with one of the test software releases that it included a fix for CIH stuff. It's in this thread somewhere -- a search might find it. But since we've had absolutely no reports of problems with CIH until yours I didn't really pay attention.
> 
> 
> I think you should give Anthem tech support a call and see what they say. This CIH stuff *DOES* work so it could be some simple operator error on your part, but I can't think what you might have done to make this happen. So maybe it really is a specific bug that Anthem actually fixed in a test software release.
> 
> 
> While waiting, review those "Fun with Custom Cropping/Scaling" threads linked in the first post here and try some of the other experiments discussed in them. This may help you find the setting that's giving your grief (if there is one) or it may help you collect more info for Anthem so that they can better understand what's working and what's not working in this for you.
> 
> --Bob



Now that you mention it Bob, I recall that before buying the D2 I had asked my dealer specifically about CIH scaling, and (after a call to Anthem) he told me that it works fine, but I would need to get beta firmware from Nick. That was in late January, so he must have been referring to an 11.something version.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob.
> 
> 
> 1.11j is so yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greatest and latest is 1.11k for now.



And? What's new and wonderful about V1.11k?

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And? What's new and wonderful about V1.11k?
> 
> --Bob



He _could_ tell you. But then he'd have to kill you!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> He _could_ tell you. But then he'd have to kill you!




Understanding humor







, he should be able to tell as the feature changes are pretty well advertised.


Levesque, I know we had a bizarro world experirnce on XA2 issues back a couple of revs, so you saying k is stable may be different from us south of the border folks







:O, but it would be good to get a first cut reaction on stability vs e, as Nick rolls out the updates to the usual suspects. (He was very up front about issues in latter releases and relationship to prior revs).


Tim


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I finally got 1.11g downloaded. I ended up having to assign new com ports and get my usb connection to com port 3 and everything went fine. After a short test it did not solve my problem with the tivo s3. I know someone earlier said 1.11e would fix it, I will email Nick.


----------



## LEVESQUE

I never said that 1.11k was stable.










Just that now we are at 1.11k. 1080p24 is working fine with the BDP-HD1 with that firmware (picture without any stuttering every 45-50 seconds, and sound), but there is some new problems with my other sources.


1.11e is still the most stable beta-firmware with all my sources.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I finally got 1.11g downloaded. I ended up having to assign new com ports and get my usb connection to com port 3 and everything went fine. After a short test it did not solve my problem with the tivo s3. I know someone earlier said 1.11e would fix it, I will email Nick.




Bill, just to confirm you don't have the issue going direct to the display, correct?


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bill, just to confirm you don't have the issue going direct to the display, correct?



That is correct.


Also is there any way to change modes while listening without going into setup?


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I never said that 1.11k was stable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just that now we are at 1.11k. 1080p24 is working fine with the BDP-HD1 with that firmware (picture without any stuttering every 45-50 seconds, and sound), but there is some new problems with my other sources.
> 
> 
> 1.11e is still the most stable beta-firmware with all my sources.



Can you elaborate on the "new problems"?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you elaborate on the "new problems"?



I just got this new firmware 2 days ago and didn't had a lot of time to play with it and tweak it... So it can be only small adjustments to do on my side. But there is no sound with my Toshiba HD-XA2 anymore... only picture. Picture and sound with the BDP-HD1 at 1080p24 is working like it should now.


And all the options in the Gennum menus are grayed out and we don't know why... The Gennum menus are now different in that version so there was probably a conflict somewhere with my old settings (but I didn't listen to my own advices and didn't reload factory defaults before upgrading... so it's probably my fault...bad guy, shame on me!







)


But Nick told me everything is working fine at Anthem with 1.11k, JVC RS-1 and Pioneer BDP-HD1. So it must be me. I will try to reset the D2, load factory defaults, and re-install the firmware later.


----------



## Randall Morton

LEVESQUE

According to Nick, the new firmware is 1.12k. I believe he said you are the only one using it now.


Anthem now has the Pioneer BDP HD1 and was unable to recreate the stuttering problem with the RS1. They are going to do more involved testing next week and hopefully will resolve the problem. Nick also said the 1.12k would not help with this issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is correct.
> 
> 
> Also is there any way to change modes while listening without going into setup?



Are you talking about audio modes? Sure. Press the Mode key on the remote once and then use the up and down arrows to scroll through and select the new mode. THX post processing can be turned on and off by pressing the THX button and then using the up and down arrows.


Be aware that the Modes that will be available to you at any given moment depend on the format of the incoming audio, whether or not you have rear speakers configured, and whether or not you have THX audio post processing turned on. For example, you can't get to Mono-Academy mode if the input audio is DD5.1 or if THX is turned on.


The audio Modes you specify in Setup / Source Select are simply the defaults for that input when receiving each type of incoming audio format.


---------------------------------------------------


There are also several other "shortcuts" available under the Mode key that can be used to change the VIDEO processing. Press and hold the Mode key for a bit and you will be able to view and change the Video Source Adjust / Scale Out setting using the up and down arrows.


Briefly release and then briefly press the Mode key again and you will be able to view and change the Video Source Adjust / Crop Input setting.


Briefly press the Mode key again and you will be able to view and change the Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock setting.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LEVESQUE
> 
> According to Nick, the new firmware is 1.12k. I believe he said you are the only one using it now.
> 
> 
> Anthem now has the Pioneer BDP HD1 and was unable to recreate the stuttering problem with the RS1. They are going to do more involved testing next week and hopefully will resolve the problem. Nick also said the 1.12k would not help with this issue.



Interesting.


Levesque, you have the same setup that Randall and I do: Pioneer Elite HD1-->D2-->JVC RS1 (HD1) projector.


Do you get the stuttering using 1080p/24 from the Elite through the D2 to the JVC? Randall and I certainly do.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LEVESQUE
> 
> According to Nick, the new firmware is 1.12k. I believe he said you are the only one using it now.



Really?














Sorry then. 1.12k.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you get the stuttering using 1080p/24 from the Elite through the D2 to the JVC? Randall and I certainly do.



I was able to watch Chicken Little Blu-ray (incredible PQ!) for 20 minutes without stuttering at 1080p24. I didn't had a lot of times to try something else. So take it with a grain of salt for now, until further testings...


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Thanks Bob that is exactly the info I was looking for.


What a great thread.


----------



## funlvr1965

this will be a little off topic however I have the upgraded D1HD and was using a gefen 1x4 hdmi distribution box so I could use output hdmi signal from the Anthem to run two projectors what I discovered was that with the gefen installed in the chain it seemed to introduce some blocking and other artifacts, a friend of mine who has the D2 said that he read somewhere in this thread that someone has had great success with a hdmi distribution solution that introduces no changes in the video in fact he thought he read that the user reported that it seemed to improve the video, anyone know who that was or what hdmi distributor I can use to run two projectors from one hdmi signal coming from the D2 that wont introduce any video errors? TIA


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> this will be a little off topic however I have the upgraded D1HD and was using a gefen 1x4 hdmi distribution box so I could use output hdmi signal from the Anthem to run two projectors what I discovered was that with the gefen installed in the chain it seemed to introduce some blocking and other artifacts, a friend of mine who has the D2 said that he read somewhere in this thread that someone has had great success with a hdmi distribution solution that introduces no changes in the video in fact he thought he read that the user reported that it seemed to improve the video, anyone know who that was or what hdmi distributor I can use to run two projectors from one hdmi signal coming from the D2 that wont introduce any video errors? TIA



I believe that is a COMPLETE VIOLATION of the HDMI Specification.


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe that is a COMPLETE VIOLATION of the HDMI Specification.



im sure you will expand on this at some point, so are you saying distributing an hdmi signal is what,,,,illegal?


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI splitter



I'm using this Gefen product http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=2514 to feed an RPTV and a PJ at the same time from my AVM-50 and I haven't experienced any signal problems.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> im sure you will expand on this at some point, so are you saying distributing an hdmi signal is what,,,,illegal?



I talked to Gefen engineers at their BOOTH

in Las Vegas - at the CES show in January.


They are the ones who told me it was a violation

of the HDMI specifications.


But as you can see from the post from Nathan_R

-- IT WORKS for him.


So I only repeated what I was told by Gefen.


----------



## funlvr1965

Nathan thanks for the response, yes its really strange two projectors hooked up to the gefen, signal coming from d2, the projectors were marantz 11s1 and benq w10000 my friend who owns the benq noticed it right away in material that hes familiar with, he has his machine and the d2 tweaked and he said that something was wrong it was then that we disconnected the gefen and went straight to the benq and the blocking artifact disappeared


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I talked to Genfen engineers at their BOOTH
> 
> in Las Vegas - at the CES show in January.
> 
> 
> They are the ones who told me it was a violation
> 
> of the HDMI specifications.
> 
> 
> But as you can see from the post from Nathan_R
> 
> -- IT WORKS for him.
> 
> 
> So I only repeated what I was told by Genfen.



so are you saying that gefen made a product then acknowledges that its a violation of hdmi specs and continues to make a product that does what its saying it shouldnt do? uh boy!!!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> so are you saying that gefen made a product then acknowledges that its a violation of hdmi specs and continues to make a product that does what its saying it shouldnt do? uh boy!!!



Maybe they figured a way around the restriction.

Both Legally and electronically.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe that is a COMPLETE VIOLATION of the HDMI Specification.



What part of the spec? I don't believe it's violating any specs, it's just not functioning properly (which I guess could be construed as violating specs). As long as each point to point connection is adhering to the "HDCP rules" there isn't anything else to "violate" besides correct functionality.







HDMI defines a transport path from one end to the other. It seems like the "stuff" between the incoming signal and split-out outputs can't keep up with the high bandwidth and/or degrades the signal.


larry


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> this will be a little off topic however I have the upgraded D1HD and was using a gefen 1x4 hdmi distribution box so I could use output hdmi signal from the Anthem to run two projectors what I discovered was that with the gefen installed in the chain it seemed to introduce some blocking and other artifacts, a friend of mine who has the D2 said that he read somewhere in this thread that someone has had great success with a hdmi distribution solution that introduces no changes in the video in fact he thought he read that the user reported that it seemed to improve the video, anyone know who that was or what hdmi distributor I can use to run two projectors from one hdmi signal coming from the D2 that wont introduce any video errors? TIA



In the AVM 40 thread they are talking about using this splitter with good results.

http://www.provantage.com/connectgea...2~7CONG01J.htm


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The HDMI ORG poster in the HDMI forum here pointed out that HDMI itself actually *DOES* support fan out -- one source to multiple destinations. Presumably there is a protocol for dealing with EDID (acceptable configuration) conflicts when doing that.


The trick is finding products that actually implement that. As with so much of HDMI, it is optional.


However, I'd also point out that the HDMI spec doesn't include HDCP (copy protection) as part of the spec itself. That's tacked on to HDMI by another group. So whether any HDMI fanout product would ALSO work in the face of HDCP issues is yet another story.

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio

Where do you guys set crossovers at with your D2? I am running Paradigm C5 & S8's as my LCR's. I have an M&K MX125 sub which badly needs upgraded. Anyhow just curious as to where you set crossovers. Thanks!!


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I downloaded 1.11e over the top of 1.11g and it seems to have solved the issue with the tivo. I had 2 friends over last night and tonight and we all thought the picture was more 3D like with the g version in sd,hdtv,dvd and hddvd.


The picture with e version seems somewhat softer around the edges.


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where do you guys set crossovers at with your D2? I am running Paradigm C5 & S8's as my LCR's. I have an M&K MX125 sub which badly needs upgraded. Anyhow just curious as to where you set crossovers. Thanks!!



I have mine set to 80, the default, and have yet to play with that part yet. I think it could take a month to get this thing set right, but watching and listening to the Eagles Farewell in HDDVD the last 2 nights has been awesome.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where do you guys set crossovers at with your D2? I am running Paradigm C5 & S8's as my LCR's. I have an M&K MX125 sub which badly needs upgraded. Anyhow just curious as to where you set crossovers. Thanks!!



I'd be interested in hearing opinions on this as well. It seems that 95% of the discussion in this thread is regarding the video side of the D2, but there is a whole new world out there when it comes to the flexibility of the D2's audio!


I currently have my x-overs set at the default settings (80hz I believe)....which seems to work well. I have two subs in my system, so I doubt I would set the x-0ver any lower than 70hz.


(edit: I see Bill beat me by 2 minutes)


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd be interested in hearing opinions on this as well. It seems that 95% of the discussion in this thread is regarding the video side of the D2, but there is a whole new world out there when it comes to the flexibility of the D2's audio!
> 
> 
> I currently have my x-overs set at the default settings (80hz I believe)....which seems to work well. I have two subs in my system, so I doubt I would set the x-0ver any lower than 70hz.
> 
> 
> (edit: I see Bill beat me by 2 minutes)



I think the crossover setting is dependent on you

LFE channels.


I have 3 LFE Channels

1) 18Hz to 100Hz

2) 8Hz to 20 Hz

3) 2 HZ to 12Hz


Therefore - I have my crossovers set at 100Hz

even though my main speakers can handle down

to 60 Hz


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd be interested in hearing opinions on this as well. It seems that 95% of the discussion in this thread is regarding the video side of the D2, but there is a whole new world out there when it comes to the flexibility of the D2's audio!
> 
> 
> I currently have my x-overs set at the default settings (80hz I believe)....which seems to work well. I have two subs in my system, so I doubt I would set the x-0ver any lower than 70hz.
> 
> 
> (edit: I see Bill beat me by 2 minutes)



Mine (AVM50) are set to default at 80.


On a related topic, I watched the intro to _Serenity_ tonight and had the volume a little loud and thought the paint would rattle off the walls. I finally set the max bass output as the OM reccomends and ended up at -30db. I hadn't thought it necessary before now. This seems to provide a safety check to prevent sub damage and is very nice IMO.


I use Vandy 2wq's which are passively crossed to the mains by design so it's technically a 5.0 configuration. The AVM50 does an excellent job of re-routing LFE. It seems the Room Resonance Filter adjustment doesn't function for me though.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is a link in the first post of this thread to a post reporting on my experiments setting up bass with a Velodyne DD-15 subwoofer and the D2.


----------------------------------


The crossovers are not hard cutoffs. The mains will see sound below the crossover frequency -- gradually attenuated. The sub will see sound above the crossover frequency -- again, gradually attenuated.


The basic rule of thumb, as a starting point, is to set the crossover for the mains no lower than twice the lowest frequency speced for the mains, and to set the crossover for the sub no higher than 1/2 the highest frequency speced for the sub.


80Hz is a good starting point, and the more you vary from 80Hz the more you are likely to run into problems. For example, if you set the crossover too high for the sub, the sub will become "localizeable". I.e., you'll start hearing sound coming from the direction of the sub. A properly setup sub should not be possible to locate. The sound should just fill the room as if from everywhere.


An 80Hz crossover, by the rule of thumb, would work with mains that are rated down at least as far as 40Hz, and a sub rated at least as high as 160Hz.


Be sure to disable any crossover built into the sub itself (or crank it up to its highest frequency to get it out of the way) or it will act on top of the D2's crossover and further attenuate bass.


The D2 gives you lots of flexibility in setting things up. I discuss more of that in the link I mentioned above.

--Bob


----------



## bool

I second Nathan_R's good luck. I am also using a Gefen 2x2 HDMI spliter/distributor with my AVM-50 to an LCD and RPTV. So far so good.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I downloaded 1.11e over the top of 1.11g and it seems to have solved the issue with the tivo. I had 2 friends over last night and tonight and we all thought the picture was more 3D like with the g version in sd,hdtv,dvd and hddvd.
> 
> 
> The picture with e version seems somewhat softer around the edges.



Be sure to go through a video calibration pass with your new V1.11e software. It's possible you lost some settings -- particularly in the Video Source Adjust menu -- in the course of the new software install. And it's also possible that the ideal settings for the V1.11g software are not the same as those for the V1.11e software.


That said, there have been unanticipated imaging improvements in previous Anthem software releases. So it is just possible that the V1.11g version really is better. Presumably any such improvments will make it into the final public release version whenever that finally comes out.


Oh, and I'm glad the V1.11e version seems to help with your Tivo S3. That confirms what we've heard from other posters.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

I tried the 1.11g today and didn't notice much difference from the 1.11e. I really didn't watch but about 20 minutes with the g. I then went to the Alpha 1.12k and I believe the 24fps glitch with the BDP HD1 has been fixed with this version. I watched about 40 minutes total on two different movies tonight without seeing a single glitch. Like LEVESQUE posted earlier, I am also unable to get my XA2 to sync with this version. I'm hoping Nick will get this corrected soon because everything else seems to be working great. This includes my computer the BDP HD1, and my SA 8300 all connected with HDMI and my DVHS decks connected with component.


In this version there are some changes to the menus. Video output has been moved from menu item 8 to menu item 1 and now gives an a/b choice for Video output config 1 and 2. Seems the timings have been changed for the 1080P/24 setting. The RS1 now reports 47.96 vert freq.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tried the 1.11g today and didn't notice much difference from the 1.11e. I really didn't watch but about 20 minutes with the g. I then went to the Alpha 1.12k and I believe the 24fps glitch with the BDP HD1 has been fixed with this version. I watched about 40 minutes total on two different movies tonight without seeing a single glitch. Like LEVESQUE posted earlier, I am also unable to get my XA2 to sync with this version. I'm hoping Nick will get this corrected soon because everything else seems to be working great. This includes my computer the BDP HD1, and my SA 8300 all connected with HDMI and my DVHS decks connected with component.
> 
> 
> In this version there are some changes to the menus. Video output has been moved from menu item 8 to menu item 1 and now gives an a/b choice for Video output config 1 and 2. Seems the timings have been changed for the 1080P/24 setting. The RS1 now reports 47.96 vert freq.



This is great news Randall (except for the xa2 issue)! So not only does this fix the stuttering with the HD1 at 1080p/24, but are you saying that it also fixed the problems with HDMI and the SA 8300?!


----------



## Randall Morton

Rob,

I didn't have any problems with the 8300 before other than it was just a little slow to resync when changing channels. Since I record most of what I watch this wasn't a problem for me. I briefly checked the 8300 with the 1.12k and it seemed like it may be a bit more responsive now but, like I said, I don't channel surf much.


----------



## LEVESQUE

It's really important not to forget that we are talking about _alpha_ firmware. Don't expect too much from that. There could be 10 other beta firmwares before getting an official firmware, and it could be totally different from one iteration to the next.


Beta-testing is not for the faint of heart. It's really easy to get into major problems...


----------



## Tolstoi

Yesterday I tried a Benq W9000 at 1080p24 from my pioneer BDP-HD1 through the D2. The initial sync was a bit long but after the image was rock solid. Meanwhile, as for the JVC RS1 and the Mit HC5000, I lost the audio on HDMI when using 1080p24.


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Be sure to go through a video calibration pass with your new V1.11e software. It's possible you lost some settings -- particularly in the Video Source Adjust menu -- in the course of the new software install. And it's also possible that the ideal settings for the V1.11g software are not the same as those for the V1.11e software.
> 
> 
> That said, there have been unanticipated imaging improvements in previous Anthem software releases. So it is just possible that the V1.11g version really is better. Presumably any such improvments will make it into the final public release version whenever that finally comes out.
> 
> 
> Oh, and I'm glad the V1.11e version seems to help with your Tivo S3. That confirms what we've heard from other posters.
> 
> --Bob



Well I guess I spoke to soon, last night no flickers, this am the flicker returned watching local news and Today thru tivo.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I guess I spoke to soon, last night no flickers, this am the flicker returned watching local news and Today thru tivo.



This sounds to me more and more like a cable problem or a hardware problem with the HDMI circuit at one end or the other. I know you said you have good cables. If you have more than one, try swapping a different one in for your Tivo to D2 connection.


Be careful when removing and inserting cables -- it doesn't hurt to check the plugs and sockets again for damage with a flashlight before plugging anything back in. Power should be off when changing cables -- it is best to disconnect everything from wall power.


I fought a very similar problem to yours last year with my Comcast box. I was convinced it was heat related and I tried all sorts of things with fans that sometimes seemed to help and sometimes didn't. Then, just to prove to myself it WASN'T a cable problem, I changed my cable. Much to my chagrin, that simple change fixed my problems.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's really important not to forget that we are talking about _alpha_ firmware. Don't expect too much from that. There could be 10 other beta firmwares before getting an official firmware, and it could be totally different from one iteration to the next.
> 
> 
> Beta-testing is not for the faint of heart. It's really easy to get into major problems...



Fortunately we have people like LEVESQUE around. In case you didn't know, "Danger" is his middle name. (grin!)


LEVESQUE, any word on the biggie here? Proper 480i/60Hz or 1080i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz conversion?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It seems the Room Resonance Filter adjustment doesn't function for me though.



Be sure you have Apply Filter set in the Room Resonance Filter menu. It's easy to forget to turn that on.


Also, if you have Bypass LFE Crossover set in the Speaker Configuration menu, that may disable the resonance filter. I'm not sure about that.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin

How well does the Room Resonance Filter work? What does it do, and what affect does it have?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How well does the Room Resonance Filter work? What does it do, and what affect does it have?



It works fine. It is a single "parametric" filter applicable to any chosen range below the crossover frequency. "Parametric" means you can set the center frequency of the filter, the width, and the degree of attenuation or depth. You use it for knocking down your most annoying room bass resonance below the crossover frequency.


Setting it up involves taking SPL measurements with your trusty, Radio Shack SPL meter at frequency steps from the crossover down to very low frequency. The test tones in that menu do this for you. Then you look at the results, pick the resonance (unwanted peak) you most want to get rid of, set the filter, and measure again to see if you need to adjust further.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It works fine. It is a single "parametric" filter applicable to any chosen range below the crossover frequency. "Parametric" means you can set the center frequency of the filter, the width, and the degree of attenuation or depth. You use it for knocking down your most annoying room bass resonance below the crossover frequency.
> 
> 
> Setting it up involves taking SPL measurements with your trusty, Radio Shack SPL meter at frequency steps from the crossover down to very low frequency. The test tones in that menu do this for you. Then you look at the results, pick the resonance (unwanted peak) you most want to get rid of, set the filter, and measure again to see if you need to adjust further.
> 
> --Bob



Great! Thanks for the explanation Bob.


----------



## kal

Yes, very good explanation!


I know there are lots of threads on the usefulness/validity of automated microphone based parametric equalization/calibration, so without getting into that sort of debate:


Does anyone know if Anthem is planning to eventually put out upgrades (D3?) that will allow for multiple points of parametric equalization? Possibly with single/multi-mic input (ie: automatic calibration?). Just curious!


Kal


----------



## Bob Pariseau

kal,

There have been numerous hints that Anthem is going to do an upgrade to the D2 for automatic (and manually configurable) Room EQ. This would be free software for the D2 and for a PC, plus a calibrated mic that you would either buy for your own use, or that a dealer/installer would buy for use with multiple customers.


The assumption is that the spare processing power in the D2 would be used to implement this. Thus, the rumors suggest, this upgrade would NOT be available to AVM-50 owners.


There have been hints that, just as with video setup now, some features of this would be available using only the D2. But the full range of features would require use of the PC during setup. Once the results are loaded into the D2, the PC is no longer needed during normal listening.


It is also assumed there will be an "automatic" feature to compete with the other high end AVRs out there, but to get best results would require manual tweaking -- and some willingness to learn the ins and outs of this stuff.


Again, this is all rumor. It is known that Anthem has engineers with special expertise in this area, but nobody is saying when such an upgrade might actually become available.

--Bob


----------



## kal

Thanks Bob. Nice summary without me having to go search and read all of the Athem D1/D2 rumour thread.







Much appreciated!


The rumours seem completely plausible too (from both an engineering and marketing standpoint).


Time will tell...


Kal


----------



## LEVESQUE

The guys at "Bob Pariseau and friends Inc." are right as usual.










The "room-eq" upgrade was suppose to be coming this summer, but there is much more problems then what was expected with buggy HDMI-HDCP implementations from other manufacturers to deal with, so don't expect anything before the end of summer, early fall... or later...










For those interested, I should receive the new Blu-ray players Pioneer Elite BDP-94HD and Samsung BDP-1200 that are both outputting 1080p24 to try them really soon with the Anthem D2.


----------



## venpra

A quick question to the Sages of the thread - I am having my audio and video pro-calibrated next week. Is there a way to make sure that calibrated settings are saved if and when I upgrade the firmware on my AVM-50 following calibration?


Another question to follow up on what Bob P had posted a little earlier regarding some firmware versions possibly offering better picture processing algorithms. If that is the case, do I need to be careful about upgrading to future firmware versions lest I wreck careful calbration by a professional based on picture processing logic as is currently implemented in AVM-50?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *venpra* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A quick question to the Sages of the thread - I am having my audio and video pro-calibrated next week. Is there a way to make sure that calibrated settings are saved if and when I upgrade the firmware on my AVM-50 following calibration?
> 
> 
> Another question to follow up on what Bob P had posted a little earlier regarding some firmware versions possibly offering better picture processing algorithms. If that is the case, do I need to be careful about upgrading to future firmware versions lest I wreck careful calbration by a professional based on picture processing logic as is currently implemented in AVM-50?



You can back up your settings, but I seem to recall you need to do it in two places. The Settings Editor will back up the stuff in the Setup menu. Then for the items in the source-specific Video menus, I think you back them up using the Live Video Settings editor. Personally, I keep a small text file with all the non-obvious settings in it. With the last few updates, I haven't lost any settings.


As far as I can tell, any improvements in processing algorithms do NOT affect settings a calibrator would touch. Meaning that say, the Brightness control doesn't change its range, so that what was 55 before is now 49 (for example).


----------



## Bperry

It appears most of you guys set your crossover point to about 80 Hz for bass managment. Do you also set your L/R fronts and center to small even if they are full range speakers?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bperry* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It appears most of you guys set your crossover point to about 80 Hz for bass managment. Do you also set your L/R fronts and center to small even if they are full range speakers?



I have mine set to small even though they are full range. This is a good question though. If the x-over is set at 80hz, what effect does setting the speakers to "small" have?


----------



## Bperry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have mine set to small even though they are full range. This is a good question though. If the x-over is set at 80hz, what effect does setting the speakers to "small" have?



Can you set them to large to listen to 2 channel audio and still have some bass sent to the sub? I think "direct" bypasses the LFE channel all together.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

"Large" vs "small" has little or nothing to do with the actual physical size of your speakers. "Large" vs. "small" is simply code for whether any of the bass coming in on the main audio channels gets redirected ("steered") to the subwoofer in accordance with the crossover you have set. "Large" speakers get sent everything for their channel -- with none steered to the sub. [The crossover doesn't apply.] "Small" speakers have bass extracted, according to the crossover, to be steered to the subwoofer. The small speaker only sees what's left after that bass is extracted.


If you have a decent subwoofer, properly set up, my recommendation is that you use it: Set your mains (including surrounds) to "small" even though they might actually be capable of "full range" reproduction.


If you have a subwoofer configured, any content coming in on the LFE channel will be sent to the subwoofer regardless of "large" or "small" settings on the mains. LFE content naturally rolls off around 125Hz. A subwoofer crossover setting around 80Hz pretty much guarantees that all the LFE content will get through to the sub due to the gradual rolloff of the crossover.


If you have no subwoofer configured, LFE content goes to the LF/RF main speakers -- attenuated by their crossover if they are "small".


The Anthem also has a subsonic filter which keeps extremely low frequencies from being sent to any "large" speaker or subwoofer. The THX Ultra2 subwoofer setting is not actually documented, but I believe one of the things it does is lower that subsonic filter for the subwoofer itself since THX Ultra2 subwoofers, among other things, are designed to go extra deep.


------------------------------------------------


Remember that you can set two independent speaker configurations if you prefer to use a different combo of speakers, or settings for those speakers, for some listening. You can set any of the overlayed inputs (DVD1 vs DVD2 for example) to use either of these two speaker configurations in Setup / Source Select for that input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bperry* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you set them to large to listen to 2 channel audio and still have some bass sent to the sub? I think "direct" bypasses the LFE channel all together.



You can chage the audio mode to "Stereo" for 2 channel content to disable the surrounds. If your LF/RF speakers are set to "small" and you have a subwoofer configured, you will also get bass "steered" to the subwoofer below the crossover you have set for the mains.


If your LF/RF speakers are set to "large", no bass will be steered to the subwoofer.


If you prefer to have you LF/RF speakers set to "small", to protect them from low bass they can not reproduce, and yet you would still rather not have the subwoofer be involved, then your best bet is to set up a "Music" speaker configuration without the subwoofer and with the mains set to "small" and with an appropriate crossover to protect them. Then set up any 2-channel music listening inputs to use that Music speaker configuration -- in Stereo audio mode if you also want to disable the surrounds. The 2-channel content will be sent to the LF/RF speakers, attenuated by the "small" crossover you have specified, but no bass will be sent to the subwoofer. The attenuated bass will simply be discarded.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin

So, for clarification, if speakers are set to "large", the x-over setting simply has no effect at all? (on those speakers)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, for clarification, if speakers are set to "large", the x-over setting simply has no effect at all? (on those speakers)



That is my understanding. It would be easy enough to check using an SPL meter and stereo bass test tone (i.e., not a test tone coming in on the LFE channel) from a calibration DVD.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is my understanding. It would be easy enough to check using an SPL meter and stereo bass test tone (i.e., not a test tone coming in on the LFE channel) from a calibration DVD.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I'm sure you are right. For movies I am just leaving everything at small and x-over at 80hz. I might play with the settings for stereo though.


----------



## LEVESQUE

And don't forget to put all the speaker settings in your sources (DVD, HD DVD, Blu-ray players...) to LARGE and all delays (distance) to "0" (or all to the same value in meters or feets...).


Then you can choose whatever speaker settings you want in the D2, and put the proper delay or distance values.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I'm sure you are right. For movies I am just leaving everything at small and x-over at 80hz. I might play with the settings for stereo though.



Whether or not you intend to use the Room Resonance Filter, I would also recommend you do a sweep using its test tones with your SPL meter to get a handle on how your room is doing for bass response. Most people do not have a neutral room. There are usually SIGNIFICANT peaks and nulls (bass overemphasis due to resonance or underemphasis due to cancellation) -- usually MULTIPLE peaks and nulls at different frequencies -- and they often VARY significantly as your listening position changes -- even across the length of a sofa. In addition to all the various settings and adjustments for dealing with bass frequencies, even minor repositioning of the subwoofer can have a significant impact on just how it couples to the room.


Folks who don't like to use their sub for music listening often don't realize that their sub simply isn't setup correctly in the room -- that the boominess they are hearing when they use it with music is *NOT* their sub at all, but rather the room response triggered by how the sub (and bass from the mains) couples with the room. A well set up sub can be a marvel as part of a music listening configuration.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Whether or not you intend to use the Room Resonance Filter, I would also recommend you do a sweep using its test tones with your SPL meter to get a handle on how your room is doing for bass response. Most people do not have a neutral room. There are usually SIGNIFICANT peaks and nulls (bass overemphasis due to resonance or underemphasis due to cancellation) -- usually MULTIPLE peaks and nulls at different frequencies -- and they often VARY significantly as your listening position changes -- even across the length of a sofa. In addition to all the various settings and adjustments for dealing with bass frequencies, even minor repositioning of the subwoofer can have a significant impact on just how it couples to the room.
> 
> 
> Folks who don't like to use their sub for music listening often don't realize that their sub simply isn't setup correctly in the room -- that the boominess they are hearing when they use it with music is *NOT* their sub at all, but rather the room response triggered by how the sub (and bass from the mains) couples with the room. A well set up sub can be a marvel as part of a music listening configuration.
> 
> --Bob



Excellent points Bob. I don't seem to have as much of a hard time with the peaks and valleys since I added a second subwoofer long ago. But even then, getting them in the right "phase" was still a chore, and placement of each subwoofer still makes a remarkably big difference.


I definitely do need to do the sub sweep though. One of the "upgrades" that I keep meaning to do, and keep putting off, is bass traps. Given my recent spending spree, I will probably have to put that off a little longer still.


----------



## Bperry

On a different note, I am going to connect the D2 to my amp using its balanced outputs. However my sub (a SVS) doesn't have a balanced input and I have read the output from the RCA outs on the D2 are 3 db lower. Is that going to make any difference. I.E. using a mix of balanced and unbalanced outputs from the D2. I am asuming I can just adjust the gain in the D2 to the LFE channel?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bperry* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On a different note, I am going to connect the D2 to my amp using its balanced outputs. However my sub (a SVS) doesn't have a balanced input and I have read the output from the RCA outs on the D2 are 3 db lower. Is that going to make any difference. I.E. using a mix of balanced and unbalanced outputs from the D2. I am asuming I can just adjust the gain in the D2 to the LFE channel?



Yes, that's no problem.

--Bob


----------



## PooperScooper

Well, it looks like I have a problem with my 2nd D2. This time it's HDMI audio. The center channel gets "crackles/pops" thrown in. It happens with HDMI PCM output from the Tosh A1, Oppo 970 and PS3. I swapped HDMI cables and interconnects. And when I swapped the center channel and L/F outputs on the D2 the crackles came out of the L/F when playing mch SACD output from the Oppo which is how I tested after hearing the crackles playing movies. Even with no live HDMI audio input, when I switch between then 6-channel HDMI input config options on the D2 I hear crackles on the speaker where the center channel gets mapped. I can't see how anything in my setup is inducing this given the various things I tried. At this point I'm probably just going to get my money back and get something else. We'll see how I feel tomorrow, but I'm not a happy camper right now.


larry


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Wow, that's horrible news Larry. Not being a happy camper is certainly understandable under those circumstances, especially since this is your second D2.


Edit: speaking of which, my OSD with the Setup menu problem is still present. I would say that the OSD works correctly about 60% of the time. I have been told to contact my dealer, and I will either get a new D2 or they will fix my current one...and apparently my dealer has a say in which one occurs (replacement unit or repair)? Since my D2 appears to work fine other than the OSD problem (any other issues such as stuttering at 1080p/24 seems to be with the other units as well), I am having a hard time deciding what to do: just keep this unit as is, or get a replacement/repair done now.


If it gets worse, I would still be under warranty for the next 2 years.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Be sure you have Apply Filter set in the Room Resonance Filter menu. It's easy to forget to turn that on.
> 
> 
> Also, if you have Bypass LFE Crossover set in the Speaker Configuration menu, that may disable the resonance filter. I'm not sure about that.
> 
> --Bob



I can't get any tones on the resonance filter adjustment at all. It makes no difference whether I have the filter on or off. I'd assume it's disabled because I'm running 5.0 (my subs are passively crossed to my mains).


Us 5.0 guys just don't get any respect I guess.


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, it looks like I have a problem with my 2nd D2. This time it's HDMI audio. The center channel gets "crackles/pops" thrown in. It happens with HDMI PCM output from the Tosh A1, Oppo 970 and PS3. I swapped HDMI cables and interconnects. And when I swapped the center channel and L/F outputs on the D2 the crackles came out of the L/F when playing mch SACD output from the Oppo which is how I tested after hearing the crackles playing movies. Even with no live HDMI audio input, when I switch between then 6-channel HDMI input config options on the D2 I hear crackles on the speaker where the center channel gets mapped. I can't see how anything in my setup is inducing this given the various things I tried. At this point I'm probably just going to get my money back and get something else. We'll see how I feel tomorrow, but I'm not a happy camper right now.
> 
> 
> larry



just finished watching Babel on ps3 I too hear little crackles and pops maybe not as bad as Larry but they are there I think we need to find out how many others are experiencing this as well and bring it to Anthems attention, in my case my D1 was upgraded to D2 status, I only hear the crackles and pops in the quietest scenes, Ive also heard it on one or two other dvds so I know its not the movies themselves and all but two of my 7 speakers are powered m&k monitors and im using balanced cables


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Well I went back to 1.11g and there is a very dramatic improvement in pq vs. 1.11e. I am not sure about the flicker yet as all I watched was recorded stuff.


That being said I checked all cable connections, but if it were a cable issue wouldn't it flicker with recorded stuff also?


I have not tried my cable box yet to see if the same happens, but will later on.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

By the way, just for clarification, 1.11 pq is ok, 1.11g pq very sharp almost 3d, 1.11e pq very soft almost blurry around the edges, hence back to 1.11g.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

In case anyone needs one this attaches and works perfectly with the d2.

http://www.pccables.com/70607.htm


----------



## Mark Lem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The guys at "Bob Pariseau and friends Inc." are right as usual.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> 
> For those interested, I should receive the new Blu-ray players Pioneer Elite BDP-94HD and Samsung BDP-1200 that are both outputting 1080p24 to try them really soon with the Anthem D2.



Excellent! Those are my two choices to decide upon. When will the 94HD be released to us public?


----------



## Mark Lem

I have not received my D2 yet, but have a question on the remote. Did a search but turned up tons of pages...


There are lots of buttons on the D2 front panel. If I put the D2 in a cabinet without easy access to the front panel, can I do everthing from the remote?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Lem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have not received my D2 yet, but have a question on the remote. Did a search but turned up tons of pages...
> 
> 
> There are lots of buttons on the D2 front panel. If I put the D2 in a cabinet without easy access to the front panel, can I do everthing from the remote?



I guess you can because my D2 is in a RACK

and I have never touched it since I have

bolted it into the rack


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> By the way, just for clarification, 1.11 pq is ok, 1.11g pq very sharp almost 3d, 1.11e pq very soft almost blurry around the edges, hence back to 1.11g.



I notice no softening at all with 1.11e.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Lem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Excellent! Those are my two choices to decide upon. When will the 94HD be released to us public?



June. I should receive a sample soon, but it's not sure. Maybe early june.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> By the way, just for clarification, 1.11 pq is ok, 1.11g pq very sharp almost 3d, 1.11e pq very soft almost blurry around the edges, hence back to 1.11g.



Really? Just like drhankz I never noticed any differences like that. I will look closely then just to be sure. Are you re-calibrating your video chain each time when loading a new firmware?


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Yes I did, in my setup it is really noticable. The flicker thing is not around this am. I am wondering if this is a cablecard issue with the tivo.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> just finished watching Babel on ps3 I too hear little crackles and pops maybe not as bad as Larry but they are there I think we need to find out how many others are experiencing this as well and bring it to Anthems attention, in my case my D1 was upgraded to D2 status, I only hear the crackles and pops in the quietest scenes, Ive also heard it on one or two other dvds so I know its not the movies themselves and all but two of my 7 speakers are powered m&k monitors and im using balanced cables



My probelm is definitely not from the source disc. Notice in my post that it happens with no input coming in when I play with the 6ch conifg setup. When I watch a movie the volume is pretty much the max that I can tolerate. The small pops in the center channel can be heard during normal use here and there and you can hear more putting you ear to the speaker (at lower volume levels). I heard this last weekend and thought it was the source disc or maybe the A1 but when I heard it on another disc last night I got suspicious. Coax input doesn't seem affected, that's what I use when watching things on cable.


larry


----------



## cpcat

Just FYI I've been doing some testing comparing the AVM50 to the Toshiba XA2 (Silicon Optix Reon chip) in regards to scaling/deinterlacing.


The AVM 50 picks up the film cadence faster (film deinterlacing) on the HQV test disc (480i output from an old Sony DVP-9000).


The XA2 (Reon) performs better with the jaggies test (video deinterlacing).


The AVM50 outperforms visibly with scaling 480p to 1080p.


Here are pics (AVIA resolution pattern).


The first is the XA2 doing all the scaling to 1080p


The second is allowing the Anthem/Gennum to scale from 480p to 1080p.


480i output to the Anthem/Gennum looks identical to the second pic.


All edge enhancement is off in the player(s), sharpness at minimum in the display. Display is Sony Pearl pj. The errors are more subtle if you set the XA2 up for a 4:3 display but still evident. 4:3 vs. 16:9 settings on the AVM50 doesn't seem to make a difference.


Be sure to maximize the pics to see them clearly.


----------



## LEVESQUE

PooperScooper


You should try saving your settings, reloading factory defaults, re-installing your firmware, re-loading factory default, then loading your settings.


It's worth a try, and it will take you 15 minutes to do.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes I did, in my setup it is really noticable. The flicker thing is not around this am. I am wondering if this is a cablecard issue with the tivo.



I think your flicker thing would go away

if you used Component instead of HDMI

from your DVR.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I have been using component for all my sources since I got it, when I tried hdmi I got the blue flashes that has been talked about.


----------



## LEVESQUE

cpcat.


DVDs are SOOOO yesterday...










Do you have the new *HD* HQV disks in both the HD DVD and Blu-ray formats (2 separate disks)? It was an eye-opener for me on how good the Anthem D2 Gennum VXP chip is with HD. Those new HD tests patterns are a must...


The Gennum VXP chip is so much better then the Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1 Blu-ray with the HD HQV Blu-ray test disk, it was not even funny... I'm talking about 1080p60, not 1080p24 out. The Pio is flashing and strobbing like hell with both the film and video loss resolution tests patterns, and failing all the tests miserably, while the Anthem D2/Gennum VXP is rock-solid and is passing all the resolution loss tests with flying colors...


----------



## cpcat

Don't have those new discs yet. Apparently there is an HD AVIA on the way too and I think there is an HD DVE available.


I'm still watching a fair number of DVD's at this point. My blockbuster doesn't carry any HD discs yet.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't have those new discs yet. Apparently there is an HD AVIA on the way too and I think there is an HD DVE available.
> 
> 
> I'm still watching a fair number of DVD's at this point. My blockbuster doesn't carry any HD discs yet.




I really appreciate you doing the test. It's going to change how I watch Standard (yesterday) DVDs







I knew the Pio was not as good scaling, but I thought the XA2 was qualitatively. Why not use the power of the anthem though. (I tend to think PQ was better with the XA2 at release vs after the upgrades).


Regardless, THANKS for doing the comparo.


----------



## Egan

Hi all,


I just received my upgraded D1 from Anthem. Did anyone else who did this receive a new manual? I did not, was told by Frank from Anthem that it would be included. I sent an email and am still waiting to hear back. I know that the manual is online but would still like to have a hard copy.


So far I have to say I'm a bit underwhelmed, not as big an improvement as I had hoped for, esp for SD. I have DirecTV, running from a DirecTivo and an HDTivo. Haven't had a chance yet to check out BD (from PS3) or HD-DVD (A1) yet. I'm wondering if the issue is that my display is a first gen SXRD, doesn't accept 1080p, best I can feed it is 1080i.


----------



## LEVESQUE

Rudolpht.


My comments were just to say the exact same thing... The Anthem D2/Gennum is surprisingly also superior to the Pio and Tosh in 1080p60 with HD disks and true HD test patterns... 1080p24 is another story though.


Since we are just starting getting some good HD test patterns, we can now get a better understanding of the quality of the Gennum VXP chip of the D2 also with HD (and not only DVD).







Those HD HQV test patterns are brutal and true eye-openers when dealing with HD.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> cpcat.
> 
> Do you have the new *HD* HQV disks in both the HD DVD and Blu-ray formats (2 separate disks)?.



TOO BAD NO ONE ELSE ON THE PLANET can BUY THEM.


So how is anyone else suppose to have them?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I just received my upgraded D1 from Anthem. Did anyone else who did this receive a new manual? I did not, was told by Frank from Anthem that it would be included. I sent an email and am still waiting to hear back. I know that the manual is online but would still like to have a hard copy.
> 
> 
> So far I have to say I'm a bit underwhelmed, not as big an improvement as I had hoped for, esp for SD. I have DirecTV, running from a DirecTivo and an HDTivo. Haven't had a chance yet to check out BD (from PS3) or HD-DVD (A1) yet. I'm wondering if the issue is that my display is a first gen SXRD, doesn't accept 1080p, best I can feed it is 1080i.



You have to understand that the SD feeds from DirecTV (and often even the HD feeds) are not really all that good. You won't see analog broadcast noise as if you were using a roof antenna, but nevertheless the picture is damaged before it ever gets to you due to excessive over-compression. In addition the HD channels are often bit-starved. What actually arrives is less than HD resolution even though the box presents it to your TV as if it were HD.


If you are seeing blockiness in you SD channels -- particularly in patches of solid color -- then you are seeing over-compression artifacts for example. If you see pixelation in rapidly moving scenes in HD then you are seeing bit-starving. There's a reason DirecTV is often referred to, disparagingly, as "HD-lite".


Once the damage is done to the image, the Anthem can't undo it.


----------------------------------------


Now that said, the most common reason people fail to see an improvement is that they haven't done their video setup properly. There can be a BIG difference between getting the levels "right" compared to "nearly right" with modern, digital TVs. If you've got your TV in the wrong "picture mode" for instance, you are losing video quality in a way the Anthem can not correct. The factory default level settings in your TV (Brightness, Contrast, Color, Tint, Sharpness) are almost CERTAIN to be INCORRECT for best viewing.


Review the "video calibration for non-ISF techs" post linked off the first post in this thread. Follow the guidance there, taking your time and experimenting to see how changes affect the imaging. It WILL be worth the effort.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> TOO BAD NO ONE ELSE ON THE PLANET can BUY THEM.
> 
> 
> So how is anyone else suppose to have them?










It's out only for reviewers now, but it should be available soon for the end users also...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's out only for reviewers now, but it should be available soon for the end users also...


I KNOW THAT.


So don't you think it was *OUT OF LINE* to ask

someone if they had it and also criticize them

for NOT having it when you know they can't

have it.


----------



## cpcat

No big deal. I didn't take it as an offense.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You have to understand that the SD feeds from DirecTV (and often even the HD feeds) are not really all that good. You won't see analog broadcast noise as if you were using a roof antenna, but nevertheless the picture is damaged before it ever gets to you due to excessive over-compression. In addition the HD channels are often bit-starved. What actually arrives is less than HD resolution even though the box presents it to your TV as if it were HD.
> 
> 
> If you are seeing blockiness in you SD channels -- particularly in patches of solid color -- then you are seeing over-compression artifacts for example. If you see pixelation in rapidly moving scenes in HD then you are seeing bit-starving. There's a reason DirecTV is often referred to, disparagingly, as "HD-lite".
> 
> 
> Once the damage is done to the image, the Anthem can't undo it.



One weakness (the only?) the Gennum VXP in our units seems to have is noise reduction. I use DirectTV as well and I have an Algolith Flea HDMI on the way. I'm anxious to see how it does.


The new Gennum chip in the Lumagen RadianceXD supposedly has improved noise reduction. It's somewhere back in this thread (and in others) but from memory ours is the 9530 and the Radiance has the 9540 I believe.


I just got tired of waiting on the Lumagen. No regrets though.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So don't you think it was *OUT OF LINE* to ask
> 
> someone if they had it and also criticize them
> 
> for NOT having it when you know they can't
> 
> have it.










Sorry my friend, that was not my intention at all!


It's the internet, and there is alot of "copies" floating around... It's not that tough to find if you know where to look... That's all.


I just wanted to let people know that the results are the same with the HD HQV disks, compared to standard DVDs. That's all. No big deal...


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> PooperScooper
> 
> 
> You should try saving your settings, reloading factory defaults, re-installing your firmware, re-loading factory default, then loading your settings.
> 
> 
> It's worth a try, and it will take you 15 minutes to do.



Yea, can't hurt. I spent a couple hours today "playing". The "pops" are in all the channels except for front L/R and sub. Playing a mch SACD via HDMI with 88khz PCM coming in makes it quite easy to hear. Again, swapping center and L/F outputs on D2 makes the popping go to the L/R and center is clean. I can play 2ch 96Khz PCM DVD+Audio disc that I made and it sounds fine. A 5.1 DTS CD sounds fine via HDMI as does anything via coax. I can hear the problem hear and there on the PS3 but I can't make it do more than 48Khz PCM with the BD audio tracks. However, these pops weren't there before or I'd have noticed them. They're quite noticeable playing a movie. I even played with crossover settings and turned them off.


I still don't know if I'm going to keep this one while another one is shipped hoping "third time is a charm" or dump it and go get a Halcro SSP80 or if it works I'd could probably do with a AVM40. I'm not picky about movie audio and I don't really need a video processor at the moment. I just want mch PCM via HDMI.


larry


----------



## Randall Morton

So Levesque,

Since you have the discs, what is the best resolution to output from the XA2 to the D2 for SD and HD DVDs?


----------



## ANSEK

I just put a 50% deposit down on my D2 and A5. Should be here in two weeks.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You have to understand that the SD feeds from DirecTV (and often even the HD feeds) are not really all that good. You won't see analog broadcast noise as if you were using a roof antenna, but nevertheless the picture is damaged before it ever gets to you due to excessive over-compression. In addition the HD channels are often bit-starved. What actually arrives is less than HD resolution even though the box presents it to your TV as if it were HD.
> 
> 
> If you are seeing blockiness in you SD channels -- particularly in patches of solid color -- then you are seeing over-compression artifacts for example. If you see pixelation in rapidly moving scenes in HD then you are seeing bit-starving. There's a reason DirecTV is often referred to, disparagingly, as "HD-lite".
> 
> --Bob



Agreed. I get both cable TV and DirecTV. I use cable TV for all my TV watching, but I get DirecTV for NFL Sunday Ticket (since my favorite team is in another state where I can't get local broadcasts). There is a big difference in quality between my cable and DirecTV. For standard definition programs, I find it very hard to watch DirecTV. The picture is extremely soft, especially in my 92" screen. You can barely read the numbers in player's uniforms. DirecTV looks really nice in small TVs since there's no ghosting, static, etc. but on large screens, you can really see the effects of compression.


----------



## randman

Last Friday, 5/11/07, my TiVo S3 (High-def Tivo) received firmware version 8.3. I didn't notice any difference in its behavior with the D2 as compared when it had version 8.1. I was using D2 firmware v1.11.


Today, as suggested by Anthem (Nick), I upgraded my D2 from v1.11 to 1.11g. The Tivo/D2 problems (I described in my May 9 post) back when I had v1.11 is still happening with v1.11g. It's the same behavior with v1.11g. In fact, it seems a little worse - the issues I described before in which I either get the Anthem blue screen or lose the audio seems to be happening more often than before. In addition, switching from one resolution to another (e.g. 720p to 1080i or other resolutions) seems to take longer than it did, maybe 2 seconds instead of 1 second (very approximate times). During the synching, there seems to be more or longer flickering (in which the picture comes in and out), and I might see the blue screen for half a second or so (again, approximate time). Most, if not all the time, when I wind up with the 'blue screen' or loss of audio is when the output of the TiVo switches to 480i; for example, when switching from 720p to 480i. This happens a lot when switching to a 480i source from my cable company (but maybe not most of the time). It happens almost everytime when watching TivoCast, which has 480i resolution. Aside for those who haven't played with TivoCast yet: TivoCast are short TV shows downloaded from the TiVo over the Internet and are not broadcast from a cable company. They have 480i resolution. Almost everytime I start watching TiVo, immediately after I start watching a TivoCast, I either lose audio, or get the blue screen. The workaround is to switch to another source (such as an analog source), and then switch back to my Tivo. At that point, the audio and video work properly. Note that once the audio and video work properly, it will continue to work properly for the rest of the show. It's only if it doesn't get a proper "lock" when I first start watching a show, will I have to do the "switch sources" trick. Note that I also get this behavior from 480i sources from my cable company, but seems that it doesn't occur as often as compared to TivoCast shows.


I read a few posts above, and it seems Tivo folks are using 1.11e? Did you folks have the same symptoms as I described above, and 1.11e helped?


I can always go to component, but I would love to stick with HDMI if it can be made more reliabe. Less cables to mess with in the back of my already congested equipment rack.


Thanks.


----------



## barhoram

Finally can move from a casual observer, to one of the group!










My D1-HD was waiting in my office for me when I got back from a week long business meeting. Took almost one month exactly door to door. Was too tired to hook it up last night, but I have had a little time to play with it this afternoon. Impressive so far! It took me a little while to figure out that I needed to change the video output colorspace from HDTV to Auto to get rid of blue and washed out colors. Once I made that change, everything (HD Tivo, Pioneer 59AVI and Tosh XA1) has worked very well. I did notice that jumping from the HD Tivo or Pioneer input and back to the XA1 while it was playing, causes me to loose pictue and the XA1 to stop. Anyone have any ideas on this? Or can I just not change sources while the XA1 is playing?


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Finally can move from a casual observer, to one of the group!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My D1-HD was waiting in my office for me when I got back from a week long business meeting. Took almost one month exactly door to door. Was too tired to hook it up last night, but I have had a little time to play with it this afternoon. Impressive so far! It took me a little while to figure out that I needed to change the video output colorspace from HDTV to Auto to get rid of blue and washed out colors. Once I made that change, everything (HD Tivo, Pioneer 59AVI and Tosh XA1) has worked very well. I did notice that jumping from the HD Tivo or Pioneer input and back to the XA1 while it was playing, causes me to loose pictue and the XA1 to stop. Anyone have any ideas on this? Or can I just not change sources while the XA1 is playing?




The xa1 is from the first generation of toshiba HD player which will lose hdmi handshake when switching to another input if its playing a movie it will stop and give an error1 or similar errror, I upgraded to a toshiba A2 which does not have this issue


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Last Friday, 5/11/07, my TiVo S3 (High-def Tivo) received firmware version 8.3. I didn't notice any difference in its behavior with the D2 as compared when it had version 8.1. I was using D2 firmware v1.11.


*THOUGH OUT THE TiVo.
*

They charge you a monthly fee and cause more

problems than *ex-Wives*










I have (5) Sony DHG-HDD500's. They work flawlessly

and there is no MONTHLY Charge for Guide Service.


----------



## muad'dib

Hello..


Been using my D2 for some time now.. Using all 4 HDMI ports, and input 4 just died!!!!!!!


To recap..


On HDMI 1,2 I have dvd player, and PS3 hooked up..


On HDMI 3, have a HDMI 4 input, 1 output switch.. Which has xbox360 elite, toshiba HD-dvd player


ON HDMI 4 had snazzio hooked up (dvi to hdmi wire, no adaptors)..


Yesterday, unhooked DVI to HDMI cord, and replaced it with HDMI to HDMI cord for new TVIX media server...


BUT>>>


No signal on video or audio with input 4...


Thought might be cable, so tried taking HDMI from other inputs that DO work, and put in 4 and NO VIDEO...


Has anyone else come across this problem,,


I am still well under warrenty, but to go without the D2 ... UGGGGGG


----------



## Bob Pariseau

maud'dib

VERY IMPORTANT! Do NOT plug in any other HDMI plugs into any socket until you do this. Get a flashlight and inspect each socket and plug end for pin damage. A damaged plug, moved from socket to socket, can break additional sockets.


Do this before you attempt any additional diagnosing of this problem.

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello..
> 
> 
> Been using my D2 for some time now.. Using all 4 HDMI ports, and input 4 just died!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> To recap..
> 
> 
> On HDMI 1,2 I have dvd player, and PS3 hooked up..
> 
> 
> On HDMI 3, have a HDMI 4 input, 1 output switch.. Which has xbox360 elite, toshiba HD-dvd player
> 
> 
> ON HDMI 4 had snazzio hooked up (dvi to hdmi wire, no adaptors)..
> 
> 
> Yesterday, unhooked DVI to HDMI cord, and replaced it with HDMI to HDMI cord for new TVIX media server...
> 
> 
> BUT>>>
> 
> 
> No signal on video or audio with input 4...
> 
> 
> Thought might be cable, so tried taking HDMI from other inputs that DO work, and put in 4 and NO VIDEO...
> 
> 
> Has anyone else come across this problem,,
> 
> 
> I am still well under warrenty, but to go without the D2 ... UGGGGGG



After Bob's suggested inspection, try reloading factory defaults. That worked for me when I "lost" HDMI1 in the same manner back when I was having my overheating problems.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Last Friday, 5/11/07, my TiVo S3 (High-def Tivo) received firmware version 8.3. I didn't notice any difference in its behavior with the D2 as compared when it had version 8.1. I was using D2 firmware v1.11.
> 
> 
> Today, as suggested by Anthem (Nick), I upgraded my D2 from v1.11 to 1.11g. The Tivo/D2 problems (I described in my May 9 post) back when I had v1.11 is still happening with v1.11g. It's the same behavior with v1.11g. In fact, it seems a little worse - the issues I described before in which I either get the Anthem blue screen or lose the audio seems to be happening more often than before. In addition, switching from one resolution to another (e.g. 720p to 1080i or other resolutions) seems to take longer than it did, maybe 2 seconds instead of 1 second (very approximate times). During the synching, there seems to be more or longer flickering (in which the picture comes in and out), and I might see the blue screen for half a second or so (again, approximate time). Most, if not all the time, when I wind up with the 'blue screen' or loss of audio is when the output of the TiVo switches to 480i; for example, when switching from 720p to 480i. This happens a lot when switching to a 480i source from my cable company (but maybe not most of the time). It happens almost everytime when watching TivoCast, which has 480i resolution. Aside for those who haven't played with TivoCast yet: TivoCast are short TV shows downloaded from the TiVo over the Internet and are not broadcast from a cable company. They have 480i resolution. Almost everytime I start watching TiVo, immediately after I start watching a TivoCast, I either lose audio, or get the blue screen. The workaround is to switch to another source (such as an analog source), and then switch back to my Tivo. At that point, the audio and video work properly. Note that once the audio and video work properly, it will continue to work properly for the rest of the show. It's only if it doesn't get a proper "lock" when I first start watching a show, will I have to do the "switch sources" trick. Note that I also get this behavior from 480i sources from my cable company, but seems that it doesn't occur as often as compared to TivoCast shows.
> 
> 
> I read a few posts above, and it seems Tivo folks are using 1.11e? Did you folks have the same symptoms as I described above, and 1.11e helped?
> 
> 
> I can always go to component, but I would love to stick with HDMI if it can be made more reliabe. Less cables to mess with in the back of my already congested equipment rack.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Lots of posts on this. Recommend 11e & component/optical for Tivo S3 (component/optical much more reliable and 99.9 or better video & audio -subjective). Just notice new Tivo Spring update. Don't know if that will make a difference.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> *THOUGH OUT THE TiVo.
> *
> 
> They charge you a monthly fee and cause more
> 
> problems than *ex-Wives*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have (5) Sony DHG-HDD500's. They work flawlessly
> 
> and there is no MONTHLY Charge for Guide Service.



When you drink the Tivo koolaid there's no back tracking. 1.5 Terabytes on mine.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Finally can move from a casual observer, to one of the group!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My D1-HD was waiting in my office for me when I got back from a week long business meeting. Took almost one month exactly door to door. Was too tired to hook it up last night, but I have had a little time to play with it this afternoon. Impressive so far! It took me a little while to figure out that I needed to change the video output colorspace from HDTV to Auto to get rid of blue and washed out colors. Once I made that change, everything (HD Tivo, Pioneer 59AVI and Tosh XA1) has worked very well. I did notice that jumping from the HD Tivo or Pioneer input and back to the XA1 while it was playing, causes me to loose pictue and the XA1 to stop. Anyone have any ideas on this? Or can I just not change sources while the XA1 is playing?



I have/had all these sources. 1) Put HD Tivo on component/optical 2) update D1-HD to 11e.


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After Bob's suggested inspection, try reloading factory defaults. That worked for me when I "lost" HDMI1 in the same manner back when I was having my overheating problems.




Thanx for the awesome suggestions....


Will inspect tomorrow to see if any damage is done..


I did try the factory reload, and no go.... Maybe I should try to re flash the D2 with same firmware??


Any will keep all of you posted..


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When you drink the Tivo koolaid there's no back tracking. 1.5 Terabytes on mine.



There is no doubt about that.


My experiment going from 1.11 to 1.11g to 1.11e and back to 1.11g has worked, fabulous picture and no flickers on tivo or cable atleast for last night and this am.


randman during all of this I tried hdmi from the tivo and had most of the issues you reported and went back to component/optical. I like you had hoped to eliminate a boatload of cables by getting the anthem, but it was not to be. I still think the anthem is the cats meow.


----------



## Egan

Where do you find the different firmware versions? I only see v.1.11 on Anthems site.


rudolpht--- I'm using HDMI with my HD Tivo, does using component give better picture?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where do you find the different firmware versions? I only see v.1.11 on Anthems site.



You can only get the beta versions of the firmware updates from Anthem via email.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is no doubt about that.
> 
> 
> My experiment going from 1.11 to 1.11g to 1.11e and back to 1.11g has worked, fabulous picture and no flickers on tivo or cable atleast for last night and this am.
> 
> 
> randman during all of this I tried hdmi from the tivo and had most of the issues you reported and went back to component/optical. I like you had hoped to eliminate a boatload of cables by getting the anthem, but it was not to be. I still think the anthem is the cats meow.



I'm currently at 1.11g and using HDMI w/ Tivo. I haven't tried 1.11e yet. Is it even worth trying 1.11e with HDMI, or should I just stick with 1.11g and switch to component/optical?


BTW - I also agree, once you've been spoiled by Tivo, it's hard to use anything else. I switched my lifetime subscription from an old series 1 Tivo (one of the originals) to my Tivo S3, and have no monthly bills. Plus, I plan on adding a terabyte external hard drive so it can support between 100 to 200 hours of hidef (actual mileage depends on bit rate used in recorded shows). Enough said. I don't want to start a debate about Tivo vs. other DVRs. I just want to get input on its use with the D2.


Thanks.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lots of posts on this. Recommend 11e & component/optical for Tivo S3 (component/optical much more reliable and 99.9 or better video & audio -subjective). Just notice new Tivo Spring update. Don't know if that will make a difference.



Tivo firmware 8.3 didn't make any difference with HDMI as compared to 8.1. I had the same problems w/ 8.3 that I was having w/ 8.1.


----------



## billatlakegeorge




randman said:


> I'm currently at 1.11g and using HDMI w/ Tivo. I haven't tried 1.11e yet. Is it even worth trying 1.11e with HDMI, or should I just stick with 1.11g and switch to component/optical?
> 
> 
> I started using component/optical based on feedback here but still had problems, Nick sent 1.11g, nothing changed but the pq was way better, I then asked for 1.11e nothing changed but the pq was crap. I then went back to 1.11g, as an experiment and as I said pq is great and no more flicker. Don't ask me why.


----------



## obie_fl

I've developed an interesting problem. My D2 has shutdown four or five times in the last month after being on for an hour or so. If I wait a minute or two and cycle the power switch on the rear it comes back up and usually stays up. I have checked and doubled checked and don't see any timers set in the any of the menus.


I don't believe it is heat related as nothing has changed in my rack and I have several inches open above and completely open front and rear. Not only that but now that my A/C is going again it is actually cooler down there then in the winter months. I vaguely remember someone else having a similar issue earlier in the thread but can't find it now.


I think the first occurrence happened shortly after I flashed to 1.11g. I believe I was running 1.10 prior to that. Could the firmware update bring on this symptom? Guess I'll email Nick and see what he has to say.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tom,

If it's a heat problem, you should see a warning message on the front panel and OSD before it shuts down.


The first thing to do is to confirm that there is no possibility of a short, or of an intermittant connection, on any of the input/output cables.


I suppose the new firmware might have issues with the timers.


The next most common reason for this sort of thing in home theater setups is a remote control conflict: Some remote command intended for another device is being seen by the Anthem as a power off command. Also, if you are only using the normal, front panel remote sensor, go into the Anthem Setup menu and disable the rear panel remote control jacks.


It's also possible that you have had power glitches.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is no doubt about that.
> 
> 
> My experiment going from 1.11 to 1.11g to 1.11e and back to 1.11g has worked, fabulous picture and no flickers on tivo or cable atleast for last night and this am.
> 
> 
> randman during all of this I tried hdmi from the tivo and had most of the issues you reported and went back to component/optical. I like you had hoped to eliminate a boatload of cables by getting the anthem, but it was not to be. I still think the anthem is the cats meow.



I'd be surprised if there is actually that big a difference between the e and g firmware as far as picture quality or we would have had more reports. On the other hand, you are using Component (most people here are using HDMI) and it is known that some Component video fixes were included in the V1.11g release. The biggest one affected Component 480i input which was sometimes being detected as 480x1440i instead of the correct 480x720i (as shown in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel). The misdetection, for those who had it, caused significant image quality issues.


One possiblity is that something screwy is going on during your software installs. This may explain why the V1.11e wasn't working properly for you and may also explain why your second install of V1.11g is working better than the first time you tried it.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Bob,


I don't know how or why but everything is perfect now, everything never looked or sounded this good. Thanks to all for their good advice.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've developed an interesting problem. My D2 has shutdown four or five times in the last month after being on for an hour or so. If I wait a minute or two and cycle the power switch on the rear it comes back up and usually stays up. I have checked and doubled checked and don't see any timers set in the any of the menus.
> 
> 
> I don't believe it is heat related as nothing has changed in my rack and I have several inches open above and completely open front and rear. Not only that but now that my A/C is going again it is actually cooler down there then in the winter months. I vaguely remember someone else having a similar issue earlier in the thread but can't find it now.
> 
> 
> I think the first occurrence happened shortly after I flashed to 1.11g. I believe I was running 1.10 prior to that. Could the firmware update bring on this symptom? Guess I'll email Nick and see what he has to say.



Must be a Florida thing







- mine has shut back down upon startup since I got it (only mine does it right as it starts up the video section when it is first turned on). If I do the hard reset (main power switch on the back) or turn it back on within a minute or so, it stays up forever (though I do have a fan on the power supply - just don't like hot things). Not exactly the same, but similar. I have worked with them a little on it, but since it stays up, I figure it's more important to let them work all those other pesky things first...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When you drink the Tivo koolaid there's no back tracking. 1.5 Terabytes on mine.



Since I have (5) 1/2 Terabyte DVRs [NOT TiVo].


That means I have 2-1/2 Terabytes and I can

record 5 different channels simultaneously


----------



## Egan

I have my PS3 set to output LPCM, connected via HDMI, put in Casino Royale, and it defaults to Anthem Cinema, cannot get it to output Dolby Digital, or other advanced audio codec. In setup I have the D1-HD set for HDMI digital for that input. Any help GREATLY appreciated.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where do you find the different firmware versions? I only see v.1.11 on Anthems site.
> 
> 
> rudolpht--- I'm using HDMI with my HD Tivo, does using component give better picture?



Egan,


Yes, Nick will send working versions. See first post of thread. It's good to get them from him so he can make sense of changes in various versions with different other equipment. Ultimately the betas help all of us.


As to quality, component/optical is not better PQ wise, but to me it's identical on a 12' foot screen, and you avoid many anomalies, lost picture, lost sound, etc. Still not perfect but much more stable. The sound is 100% the same as carried over HDMI as to what the Tivo puts out.


Tim


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since I have (5) 1/2 Terabyte DVRs [NOT TiVo].
> 
> 
> That means I have 2-1/2 Terabytes and I can
> 
> record 5 different channels simultaneously



The gauntlet is thrown down. 2 more 750MBs all on a net and shareable to multiple other Tivos.





















I only have 200MB on my Comcast DVR, which I offload to about 400 D-VHS tapes.


----------



## AnthemAVM

I was wondering when watching True Dolby HD, what should I see on the D2 window?


Thanks


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I don't know how or why but everything is perfect now, everything never looked or sounded this good. Thanks to all for their good advice.



The gods of HD have smiled down on you. Just go with it


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The gauntlet is thrown down. 2 more 750MBs all on a net and shareable to multiple other Tivos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only have 200MB on my Comcast DVR, which I offload to about 400 D-VHS tapes.



BUT that doesn't get you the EXTRA Tuners.


That is more important to me than storage.

I have never even gotten to 50% on a single

500.


I record, watch and erase.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was wondering when watching True Dolby HD, what should I see on the D2 window?
> 
> 
> Thanks



6 Ch 48kH OSD, 5.1 in the window...


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Marc- that was another great post in the Insider's Thread. Keep up the great work!










Do you think it would be appropriate for me to ask you a question in the Insider's Thread that asked something like "Hey FilmMixer, since you have been professionally mixing films in Hollywood for 17 years and obviously know great sound when you hear it, what Pre-amp Processor do you use"?


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 6 Ch 48kH OSD, 5.1 in the window...



Thanks, I will check when I get home on Monday.


Michael


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, I will check when I get home on Monday.
> 
> 
> Michael



Please note that if you see 6CH 96KHz in the OSD this is *NOT* likely a good thing!


Some players (*cough* Toshiba *cough*) have been known to "upsample" what are actually 48KHz tracks coming off the disc to 96KHz -- and are doing a LOUSY job of it.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Please note that if you see 6CH 96KHz in the OSD this is *NOT* likely a good thing!
> 
> 
> Some players (*cough* Toshiba *cough*) have been known to "upsample" what are actually 48KHz tracks coming off the disc to 96KHz -- and are doing a LOUSY job of it.
> 
> --Bob



Now that would certainly explain what I experienced with Happy Feet on HD-DVD. The TrueHD from my A1 Toshiba didn't sound any better than the DD+, and was at a substantially lower volume level.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BUT that doesn't get you the EXTRA Tuners.
> 
> 
> That is more important to me than storage.
> 
> I have never even gotten to 50% on a single
> 
> 500.
> 
> 
> I record, watch and erase.



OK I admit I only have 1.9 terabytes of online storage & total of 6 tuners, 2 with Tivo, 4 with Moto boxes. I only have a couple hundred terabytes of archived storage.


You got me.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK I admit I only have 1.9 terabytes of online storage & total of 6 tuners, 2 with Tivo, 4 with Moto boxes. I only have a couple hundred terabytes of archived storage.
> 
> 
> You got me.



No You WIN - Rudolpht


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you think it would be appropriate for me to ask you a question in the Insider's Thread that asked something like "Hey FilmMixer, since you have been professionally mixing films in Hollywood for 17 years and obviously know great sound when you hear it, what Pre-amp Processor do you use"?



It think you would get a more satisfactory reaction by asking that question in a Lexicon or Halcro thread...


----------



## ankita

I have been following this thread for a while . I finally bought anthem avm 50 and a toshiba XA2. HDMI connection. few questions for a newbie setup

1. Am I better off with XA2 output at 480p and let anthem do the 1080p upconversion or output XA2 at 1080p and use anthem processor as a passthrough . Can I make any addditional changes in the video ouput of avm ( i mean pressing 7 button ) for a stellar picture. I have JVC RS1 PJ

2. I have revel performas and revel sub 15. i am not getting enough bass through HDMI. is this XA2 issue or anthem issue ( have 1.11 ). my settings in anthem are speakers-small, Xover sub freq- 80. Do I need to adjust speakers to small or large in XA2 also ? XA2 owners can give me feedback. please walk me through

thanks

ankita


----------



## mr_fitz

Anyone have the chance to compare the Anthem MCA50 with the D2 compared to the D2 with a Martin Logan 433 power amp?


I have the D2 with an MCA50 and I am quite pleased with the sound, but have been offered a ML 433 at a price that I may not be able to pass at.


Just wondering how much difference there will be between these two amps hooked up to the D2?


I probably don't have as high end of speaker system as I should for the ML but they are the top of the reference Klipsch speakers. (RF83 fronts, RC64 center, RSW-15 sub, RS62 surrounds)


Any input from you guys would be great.


John


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been following this thread for a while . I finally bought anthem avm 50 and a toshiba XA2. HDMI connection. few questions for a newbie setup
> 
> 1. Am I better off with XA2 output at 480p and let anthem do the 1080p upconversion or output XA2 at 1080p and use anthem processor as a passthrough . Can I make any addditional changes in the video ouput of avm ( i mean pressing 7 button ) for a stellar picture. I have JVC RS1 PJ
> 
> 2. I have revel performas and revel sub 15. i am not getting enough bass through HDMI. is this XA2 issue or anthem issue ( have 1.11 ). my settings in anthem are speakers-small, Xover sub freq- 80. Do I need to adjust speakers to small or large in XA2 also ? XA2 owners can give me feedback. please walk me through
> 
> thanks
> 
> ankita



1. I've been hearing that the XA2 is stellar at upconversion. Why don't you try it both ways? Normally, you would output at 480p (or preferably 480i) for SD DVD to take advantage of the top shelf D2/AVM 50 video processing...


2. Make sure you have the XA2 set to NOT provide bass management. This would mean setting Speakers to LARGE. That way you let the Anthem do the bass management.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone have the chance to compare the Anthem MCA50 with the D2 compared to the D2 with a Martin Logan 433 power amp?
> 
> 
> I have the D2 with an MCA50 and I am quite pleased with the sound, but have been offered a ML 433 at a price that I may not be able to pass at.
> 
> 
> Just wondering how much difference there will be between these two amps hooked up to the D2?
> 
> 
> I probably don't have as high end of speaker system as I should for the ML but they are the top of the reference Klipsch speakers. (RF83 fronts, RC64 center, RSW-15 sub, RS62 surrounds)
> 
> 
> Any input from you guys would be great.
> 
> 
> John



Don't you mean Mark Levinson ML433? Ask to borrow the amp. That's the only you'll know if you will like how it sounds regardless of how it may sound to sombody else in their system.


larry


----------



## Fishysan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In case anyone needs one this attaches and works perfectly with the d2.
> http://www.pccables.com/70607.htm



Cool, thanks for the info - have you tried it with a USB extension also? ( since it's only 6' ) Just curious. Thanks!


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't you mean Mark Levinson ML433? Ask to borrow the amp. That's the only you'll know if you will like how it sounds regardless of how it may sound to sombody else in their system.
> 
> 
> larry



Ya sorry I meant Mark Levinson. Just wondering if anyone out there has demo' d the Anthem MCA50 and compared to the ML?


Thanks


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishysan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Cool, thanks for the info - have you tried it with a USB extension also? ( since it's only 6' ) Just curious. Thanks!



Yes I have a 10' extension, you have to plug in the adaptor to your laptop and load drivers first I also had to reassign some ports to get the adaptor on a lower port 1 - 4.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been following this thread for a while . I finally bought anthem avm 50 and a toshiba XA2. HDMI connection. few questions for a newbie setup
> 
> 1. Am I better off with XA2 output at 480p and let anthem do the 1080p upconversion or output XA2 at 1080p and use anthem processor as a passthrough . Can I make any addditional changes in the video ouput of avm ( i mean pressing 7 button ) for a stellar picture. I have JVC RS1 PJ
> 
> 2. I have revel performas and revel sub 15. i am not getting enough bass through HDMI. is this XA2 issue or anthem issue ( have 1.11 ). my settings in anthem are speakers-small, Xover sub freq- 80. Do I need to adjust speakers to small or large in XA2 also ? XA2 owners can give me feedback. please walk me through
> 
> thanks
> 
> ankita



For SDDVD, I prefer 480p output from the XA2 to my AVM 50 and then on to Sony Pearl pj. With 480i from component, the AVM50 seems to lose the lock on the film cadence frequently resulting in more artifacting. 1080p looks good too but seems to add some edge enhancement (even with EE off in the player) which I don't prefer. The XA2 also seems to introduce some scaling errors that the AVM50 does not. See my prior post in this thread or in the XA2 thread for pics.


Disable all bass mgt. in the XA2 and allow the AVM 50 to do everything. (Set all speaks to Large, distances zero, levels zero, and crossover at 120 with sub=use).

Set digital HDMI output to PCM (not downmixed PCM or bitstream).


If you have trouble getting test tones for calibration from a calibration disc, use bitstream output to calibrate then switch back to PCM. It seems if the test tones move too fast the PCM setting has trouble producing them. This seems to be one difference I've found in the audio between the XA2 and the A1. I wouldn't trust the test tones generated by the player.


You can also use the test tones generated by the AVM50 (this is probably the preferred way to do it, I had to use THX optimizer so I could get an LFE tone as I use a 5.0 configuration).


----------



## JeffDL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have my PS3 set to output LPCM, connected via HDMI, put in Casino Royale, and it defaults to Anthem Cinema, cannot get it to output Dolby Digital, or other advanced audio codec. In setup I have the D1-HD set for HDMI digital for that input. Any help GREATLY appreciated.



what firm ware is on the PS3? The older FW versions would only support 2 channel audio through HDMI. I think it changed in 1.5 or 1.6 not sure though?


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Hey Larry, what's the latest on your "popping" issue?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> what firm ware is on the PS3? The older FW versions would only support 2 channel audio through HDMI. I think it changed in 1.5 or 1.6 not sure though?



1.7


----------



## Egan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> what firm ware is on the PS3? The older FW versions would only support 2 channel audio through HDMI. I think it changed in 1.5 or 1.6 not sure though?



I'm using the latest firmware for the PS3, 1.70. Firmware 1.11 on the HD-D1. No problems on HDMI2 with the Toshiba A1.


----------



## ankita




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Disable all bass mgt. in the XA2 and allow the AVM 50 to do everything. (Set all speaks to Large, distances zero, levels zero, and crossover at 120 with sub=use).
> 
> Set digital HDMI output to PCM (not downmixed PCM or bitstream).



please explain how is the bass mgt disabled in the XA2 by putting sub=use in XA2 to avm 50. There is an option of "dont use" for sub in XA2 and why cant I use that to disable sub mgt ?. I'm still a newbie at all thsi. thanks for being so patient.

ankita


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> please explain how is the bass mgt disabled in the XA2 by putting sub=use in XA2 to avm 50. There is an option of "dont use" for sub in XA2 and why cant I use that to disable sub mgt ?. I'm still a newbie at all thsi. thanks for being so patient.
> 
> ankita



Setting sub=use is the only way you'll get the LFE info from the player to the AVM50. You then configure the AVM50 however you want for "Cinema" speaker mode and you're all set. The AVM50 will re-route the LFE to speakers designated Large if you don't have a sub.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 6 Ch 48kH OSD, 5.1 in the window...




As I expected, I am only getting a digital on the OSD. Any idea what I need to get TrueDolbyHD from the XA2 to the D2?


Michael


----------



## FilmMixer

^^^What does the front of the AVM say?


Are you sure the anthem is getting audio from HDMI and not Opt / Coax?


And the XA2 should be set to output PCM on HDMI.. for now, turn off Auto.


Also.. is the XA2 sending out 720 or 1080 and not 480?


----------



## DSNORD

My replacement AVM50 can not handle 1080i from my Comcast 614 DVR or Xbox 360 to a Sharp LC46D92U. It repetitively has handshake issues which result in lost picture and sound. It will upconvert 720p to 1080p which looks great. Neither 1.11e or g work properly. 1080i cable via HDMI directly into the Sharp works perfectly.


1.11g works okay so far on my Comcast/replacement D2/Pearl. 1.11 which it shipped with did not. Bill Mickelson of Anthem spoke with me directly last Friday and said 1.11e was the AVM50 fix for the Sharp to work with the notoriously problematic Comcast box and 1.11g was for the Pearl. He was right on the latter.


He said the next real nonbeta version for all fixes is about 2 weeks away. The room EQ box for the D2 is 3 months away and will cost $300. He is a personal friend of my dealer and sounds like a really great guy. He reaffirmed my decision to go with Anthem in spite of these glitches. He said they will be solved.


My question is this- is it better to scale 720p to 1080p or deinterlace 1080i to 1080p? Is deinterlacing more of an evil rather than rescaling?


The Comcast box can output 480i, 480p, 720p, or 1080i with 1080i being its "native" signal as far as I know. 1080i to 720p in the box then 720p to 1080p in the D2 just can't be as good as going 1080i to 1080p. Trying to get these guys working right has fried my brain and I can't think any more, so I need much smarter people to help me on this!


Thanks, Scott


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^What does the front of the AVM say?
> 
> 
> Are you sure the anthem is getting audio from HDMI and not Opt / Coax?
> 
> 
> And the XA2 should be set to output PCM on HDMI.. for now, turn off Auto.
> 
> 
> Also.. is the XA2 sending out 720 or 1080 and not 480?




The front says Digital.


I only have a HDMI cable to the D2 from the XA2


It is sending a signal at 1080P


I put a DTS demo disk in my 3910 at it comes up DTS96/24 on the display, same on the OSD.


When I put the same disk in the XA2, all I get is Digital.


I am sure I don't have something set correctly, any ideas?


----------



## FilmMixer

^^^ If you hit the status button on the remote an the OSD will say "HD DVD Digital MAIN" or whatever your have the input labeled to.


If you push it several times, you will see an Audio Input which should say 6Ch. 48KkHz...


The from of the display will say HD DVD Digital Volume and under it 5.1 and 1080p.


I think Bob and I assumed you were talking about the Audio Input OSD and not the initial Display..


It sounds like you have everything set up correctly.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^ If you hit the status button on the remote an the OSD will say "HD DVD Digital 1080p" or whatever your have the input labeled to.
> 
> 
> If you push it several times, you will see an Audio Input which should say 6Ch. 48KkHz...
> 
> 
> The from of the display will say HD DVD Digital 1080p and under it 5.1 and the Volume reading.
> 
> 
> I think Bob and I assumed you were talking about the Audio Input OSD and not the initial Display..
> 
> 
> It sounds like you have everything set up correctly.



The Anthem D2 says the following


DVD1 Digital Main

5.1 1080P


If I hit status three times I get


Audio Input


6 Channel 96K


Hit Status 4 more times get


6 Channel Input None


----------



## FilmMixer

Thats right.. except you need to toggle the Digital SPDIF output setting on the XA2... whatever one you have change it to the other, I forget which one you need... PCM or Bitstream and you will then see 48k


----------



## barhoram

I thought I had my colorspace problems fixed by changing the setting to Auto, but I seem to get problems when I turn my D2 and projector both off. I'm feeding a Sanyo projector via HDMI to DVI, and when I turn both on, I get a huge blue push and washed out colors. Changing the colorspace from Auto to HDTV and back seems to fix the problem, but I have to do it all of the time. Any ideas?? How do i figure out which setting is correct and how to make that the default?


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought I had my colorspace problems fixed by changing the setting to Auto, but I seem to get problems when I turn my D2 and projector both off. I'm feeding a Sanyo projector via HDMI to DVI, and when I turn both on, I get a huge blue push and washed out colors. Changing the colorspace from Auto to HDTV and back seems to fix the problem, but I have to do it all of the time. Any ideas?? How do i figure out which setting is correct and how to make that the default?



I leave mine set to HDTV but I'm going to HDMI. A firmware upgrade may help.


Try this:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9610862


----------



## ddimberio

What type of Audio connection are you guys running to your D2's from source components? Are you using the HDMI, Coax, or optical? Thanks! David


----------



## jluloff

I have a Oppo DV-981HD hooked up to Anthem AVM50 via HDMI and then HDMI to a Sony "Pearl" and wondering if anyone has this setup and what are their settings for each component?


Should the Oppo would be set at 1080p?


What should the settings be for the AVM50?


All this very confusing and I want to make sure have all the proper settings to get the best picture possible.



Thanks for any suggestions..


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thats right.. except you need to toggle the Digital SPDIF output setting on the XA2... whatever one you have change it to the other, I forget which one you need... PCM or Bitstream and you will then see 48k



Marc - I'm probably reading too much into this. Are you saying that by toggling the S/PDIF settings turns the audio upconversion off on the HDMI? I'll have to try this on my A1 has I always get 96Khz out of my player.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a Oppo DV-981HD hooked up to Anthem AVM50 via HDMI and then HDMI to a Sony "Pearl" and wondering if anyone has this setup and what are their settings for each component?
> 
> 
> Should the Oppo would be set at 1080p?
> 
> 
> What should the settings be for the AVM50?
> 
> 
> All this very confusing and I want to make sure have all the proper settings to get the best picture possible.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any suggestions..



Just remember you are the final Judge. What looks best

to you is what counts.


Trying different combinations will *NOT BREAK* anything.


Others here can pass along their wisdom on this issue

but in the end - if you have experimented and found

a combination that you like - then all is GOOD with

the World and Anthem


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Marc - I'm probably reading too much into this. Are you saying that by toggling the S/PDIF settings turns the audio upconversion off on the HDMI? I'll have to try this on my A1 has I always get 96Khz out of my player.



I honestly don't recall if this changes anything on the A1/XA1... but in essence that is what it does on the G2 units.


I suspect it has something to do with "master" clock being set at a certain sample rate, and if you are setting your player up with PCM over the SPDIF, this changes the clock for all digital audio, since it doesn't have the horsepower to do different sample rates on different outputs... a completely bizarre setup, completely undocumented, but I am sure some Toshiba engineer is very proud of himself


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What type of Audio connection are you guys running to your D2's from source components? Are you using the HDMI, Coax, or optical? Thanks! David



It's HDMI all the way for me. HDMI is a hassle to get working sometimes, but it's worth it when it all comes together.


Every connector, conversion, cable is a possible point of failure. Having worked in entertainment, multimedia and high tech, I can say I've seen the catastrophic effects of ignoring possible points of failure. I like to minimize the number of connections.


I just wish that the HDMI connector was more robust, with real world strain relief.


Plus, HDMI is the only way you're going to get multichannel uncompressed digital audio, as SPDIF doesn't have the bandwidth for more than stereo.


----------



## JeffDL

I just found something wicked on the Anthem site. They have .ccf files for Pronto remotes that incorporate all of the functions of the D2 including custom buttons and associated IR codes. I can't believe it's been there the whole time. This has fixed all of my Pronto gripes. Very happy!!!!!


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a Oppo DV-981HD hooked up to Anthem AVM50 via HDMI and then HDMI to a Sony "Pearl" and wondering if anyone has this setup and what are their settings for each component?
> 
> 
> Should the Oppo would be set at 1080p?
> 
> 
> What should the settings be for the AVM50?
> 
> 
> All this very confusing and I want to make sure have all the proper settings to get the best picture possible.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any suggestions..



Ideally, you want 480i output so the AVM50 can do all the video processing (except MPEG decoding). However, the 981 will not output 480i via HDMI, so you at least have to use the Faroujda deinterlacer and send 480p.


larry


----------



## PooperScooper

I just noticed somebody put up a D2 for sale on Agon today. Price is a little high.


larry


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just noticed somebody put up a D2 for sale on Agon today. Price is a little high.
> 
> 
> larry



I have seen 2 other D2's sell for the same price on Audiogon.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a Oppo DV-981HD hooked up to Anthem AVM50 via HDMI and then HDMI to a Sony "Pearl" and wondering if anyone has this setup and what are their settings for each component?
> 
> 
> Should the Oppo would be set at 1080p?
> 
> 
> What should the settings be for the AVM50?
> 
> 
> All this very confusing and I want to make sure have all the proper settings to get the best picture possible.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any suggestions..



My suggestion is to sell the 981 and get the 970.


You don't need the Faroudja processing in the 981. Nor do you need the 1080p out.


You want the AVM50 (or D2) to do both deinterlacing and scaling (480i to 480p and 480 to 1080).


I have a 970 outputting 480i to my D2 which then feeds a Ruby. I've tried the Oppo upconversion, and it's pretty incredible for the price - but it doesn't equal a dedicated video processor.


If you didn't have the AVM50, I'd say keep the 981. But the 970, via HDMI, is a better stripped-down no-processing disc transport.


----------



## jluloff

Thanks for the advice! I guess will look into getting the 970 then so I can output 480i to the AVM50.


Still trying to understand the whole 1080/24Hz stuff. Currently, DVD output 480p via HDMI(looking to possibly change) to the AVM50 then outputting 1080p/60Hz to the Pearl via HDMI. I have tried so many options but I believe I was getting "studdering" for lack of a better word when was watch a DVD with AVM50 set to 1080p/24. I am a noob in my home theater knowledge but trying to learn but this stuff is way over my head


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice! I guess will look into getting the 970 then so I can output 480i to the AVM50.
> 
> 
> Still trying to understand the whole 1080/24Hz stuff. Currently, DVD output 480p via HDMI(looking to possibly change) to the AVM50 then outputting 1080p/60Hz to the Pearl via HDMI. I have tried so many options but I believe I was getting "studdering" for lack of a better word when was watch a DVD with AVM50 set to 1080p/24. I am a noob in my home theater knowledge but trying to learn but this stuff is way over my head



You should set your AVM50 to output 1080p/60 to your Pearl always. Unless you have a DVD player that will output 1080/24 then forget the 24fps. If you read back through the last month or so of posts, there is lots of info on 24fps. I'm not really sure why Anthem even has the 1080P/24 setting in the menu.


Go to the first post of this thread to find links to very useful initial setup info.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice! I guess will look into getting the 970 then so I can output 480i to the AVM50.
> 
> 
> Still trying to understand the whole 1080/24Hz stuff. Currently, DVD output 480p via HDMI(looking to possibly change) to the AVM50 then outputting 1080p/60Hz to the Pearl via HDMI. I have tried so many options but I believe I was getting "studdering" for lack of a better word when was watch a DVD with AVM50 set to 1080p/24. I am a noob in my home theater knowledge but trying to learn but this stuff is way over my head



The 1080p24 output stutters for me too (also use a Pearl). I think it's a known issue and Anthem is working on it.


Folks here have tried custom timings for it but I don't think there's been any consensus on a success.


----------



## jluloff

Thanks for the quick responses and I will wait it out for Anthem fix. I was thinking of getting a BDP-S300 Blu-ray if the reviews are good when it comes out and it will do 24fps so was just trying to understand the 1080/24 issues.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thats right.. except you need to toggle the Digital SPDIF output setting on the XA2... whatever one you have change it to the other, I forget which one you need... PCM or Bitstream and you will then see 48k



It is interesting that the XA2 can't share the 96/24, DTS, Dolby, etc information with the D2 like the Denon does, so you can see it on the onscreen display.


Michael


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You should set your AVM50 to output 1080p/60 to your Pearl always. Unless you have a DVD player that will output 1080/24 then forget the 24fps.
> 
> .



The VP in theory should be able to output 1080p24 from film-sourced 1080i including HDTV and HDDVD/BlueRay. Hopefully, it will be ironed out by Anthem at some point.


I ran into the same issue with my Lumagen VP. 1080p24 output had the same stuttering.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is interesting that the XA2 can't share the 96/24, DTS, Dolby, etc information with the D2 like the Denon does, so you can see it on the onscreen display.
> 
> 
> Michael



Michael.. it would if you output bitstream over HDMI... but since everything is being decoded to PCM, that is what the Anthem is seeing


----------



## wookie

I am using 1080i component output going to a Sony vph 1251q crt projector via a keydigital component to rgb converter. The problem is that small horizontal parts of lettering (eg the overlay you get when changing volume at the bottom of the screen) are being very fuzzy (like you are seeing 2 lines instead of one). This is also noticed on the color bar SMPTE test pattern generated by the D2. The vertical borders of the color bars are very sharp and distinct but the horizontal borders are fuzzy. You also notice this with scrolling credits so it affects the entire screen not just the edges. This leads to some artifacts occurring during movie scenes especially when there is panning up and down. I thought it might be an interlace problem and so I changed the Video output from 1920x1080i at 60 HZ to 1280x720p at 60HZ. This seemed to get rid of the problem with horizontal sharpness. According to several sources most recommend running the Sony projector at 1080i and there was mixed comments whether it could handle 720p. As far as I can tell just looking at the picture it can but I don't want to do possible damage to it. I am quite used to converging the Sony projector and it is in convergence with its internal test patterns. It seems like there must be some small adjustment needed on the D2 but I am not aware of it. I tried the various adjustment you get from the video menu pressing button 7 without help. Are any of the other beta software upgrades addressing this problem? It seems like it has to do with the interlacing as I don't have the problem when using progressive. I didn't have this problem in the past when I was just hooking up component directly to the projector bypassing the D2. Since this is evident on the D2 generated SMPTE color bars I don't think it has anything to do with any of my sources. . I am using the version 1.11e software as I had the 1080i bug with the factory installed 1.11 software. I read some of the people on this forum thought the 1.11g software gave a sharper picture others said it didn't. Thanks for any suggestions.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

According to Nick 1.11g specifically has video improvements to component hookups. It was night and day for me coming from 1.11e


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The VP in theory should be able to output 1080p24 from film-sourced 1080i including HDTV and HDDVD/BlueRay. Hopefully, it will be ironed out by Anthem at some point.
> 
> 
> I ran into the same issue with my Lumagen VP. 1080p24 output had the same stuttering.



I think it will be some time before 1080p/24 works from 1080i. Anthem has already solved the problem with 1080p/24 stuttering from a 24fps source. I'm using firmware 1.12k and the stuttering is gone. The problem was with HDMI handshake.


What I was referring to about the 1080p/24 choice in the setup menu for output is: what purpose does it serve? When outputting 1080p/24 this menu is set to 1080p/60 and the framelock is set to auto. Did Anthem think it was going to be of use when they put it there as an option? Seems to me that it just confuses everyone.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have seen 2 other D2's sell for the same price on Audiogon.




I saw a fee in that price range. The D2 is a long lead item and peoples that want the unit now have no choice but to get it on the used market. Used price reflect this.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The VP in theory should be able to output 1080p24 from film-sourced 1080i including HDTV and HDDVD/BlueRay. Hopefully, it will be ironed out by Anthem at some point.
> 
> 
> I ran into the same issue with my Lumagen VP. 1080p24 output had the same stuttering.



The D2 VP is working fine at 24fps. I got it to work with 3 different projectors (JVC RS1, MI HC5000, Benq W9000). All the time video was excellent, no judder, no stuttering. Meanwhile there are still issues to be resolved. The initial handshaking when you go from 1080p60 to 1080p24 is painful and when 1080p24 is locked I end up loosing the audio over HDMI and had to use the coax connection. Now since I have the same results with 3 projectors and different cables, the culprit is between the source (a Pioneer BDP-HD1) and the D2. We should hopefully soon get a firmware upgrade to add 24fps capability to the XA2. This will give me another source to play with 24fps.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 VP is working fine at 24fps. I got it to work with 3 different projectors (JVC RS1, MI HC5000, Benq W9000). All the time video was excellent, no judder, no stuttering. Meanwhile there are still issues to be resolved. The initial handshaking when you go from 1080p60 to 1080p24 is painful and when 1080p24 is locked I end up loosing the audio over HDMI and had to use the coax connection. Now since I have the same results with 3 projectors and different cables, the culprit is between the source (a Pioneer BDP-HD1) and the D2. We should hopefully soon get a firmware upgrade to add 24fps capability to the XA2. This will give me another source to play with 24fps.



It doesn't work fine for everyone using the 1.11 firmware when going from the Pioneer Elite to the RS1. I know Rob Tomlin and I have both had problems with stuttering.

I didn't have the HDMI audio problem, well at least not always. Sometimes even with the latest firmware it takes a while to lock on the 1080P/24 source direct. The BDP HD1 always worked great at 24fps when going directly to the RS1.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It doesn't work fine for everyone using the 1.11 firmware when going from the Pioneer Elite to the RS1. I know Rob Tomlin and I have both had problems with stuttering.
> 
> I didn't have the HDMI audio problem, well at least not always. Sometimes even with the latest firmware it takes a while to lock on the 1080P/24 source direct. The BDP HD1 always worked great at 24fps when going directly to the RS1.




I have no shuttering using 1.11e but I had some with 1.11. With the Video output set at 1080p60 (not 1080p24 and not Auto) and the frame lock set to Auto.


With 11.1e there is a delay to get the audio running but when it does it is properly sync.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have no shuttering using 1.11e but I had some with 1.11. With the Video output set at 1080p60 (not 1080p24 and not Auto) and the frame lock set to Auto.
> 
> 
> With 11.1e there is a delay to get the audio running but when it does it is properly sync.



Seems like some people get different results with the same equipment. I was using 1.11e and getting stuttering about once every 40 or 45 seconds. Same for 1.11 and 1.11g. When I changed to the 1.12k the stuttering problem was solved but there are still some issues with this firmware also. I think there will be a new beta soon that will work well and solve most of these problems. I know Anthem was working more this week to improve the HDMI connection problems.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Seems like some people get different results with the same equipment. I was using 1.11e and getting stuttering about once every 40 or 45 seconds. Same for 1.11 and 1.11g. When I changed to the 1.12k the stuttering problem was solved but there are still some issues with this firmware also. I think there will be a new beta soon that will work well and solve most of these problems. I know Anthem was working more this week to improve the HDMI connection problems.




I am about to try 1.12k but to resolve the HDMI audio being dropped in 24fps. Yesterday, I watch 3/4 of Casino Royal in 24fps through the D2 using 1.11e with a solid image no shuttering at all. I was having shuttering every minute with the 1.11. Why different behavior with the same equipment?!? Weird, maybe your firmware update was not done properly. Or maybe mine was not done properly.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am about to try 1.12k but to resolve the HDMI audio being dropped in 24fps. Yesterday, I watch 3/4 of Casino Royal in 24fps through the D2 using 1.11e with a solid image no shuttering at all. I was having shuttering every minute with the 1.11. Why different behavior with the same equipment?!? Weird, maybe your firmware update was not done properly. Or maybe mine was not done properly.



I find it strange that your audio drops with the 1.11e.







When I use the Pioneer Elite BD player, I always turn on the player first and then turn on the Anthem. I don't usually have any audio problems. The picture will blink black to blue serveral times before it finds sync. It has done this with all the firmware versions. I'm also using the latest firmware for the Pioneer and RS1. The 1.11k has problems with the Toshiba XA2. The XA2 has a very difficult time to sync with this firmware and then it may or may not have audio. Once it syncs with audio it plays fine. My computer(DVI to HDMI), DVHS decks, and SA8300(HDMI) all work fine with this firmware. I'm mostly watching Blu Ray now and I hope we get a new firmware by the time Toshiba gives us the 1080P/24 firmware upgrade.


----------



## LEVESQUE

I also didn't have any sound with the Pioneer BDP-HD1 and 1.11e (with the JVC HD-1), only picture. 1.12k was working good for me, with both sound and picture.


----------



## Big Tex

Ok masters of the AV Universe and all knowing beings of silicon...I need your help again.


It's been a while since this peon chimed in but I have some serious questions I need help with and I'm too slow to read all 220 pages of posts for some guidance.


I recently switched out my Pearl for a RS-1... WOW!!!! What a difference. Huge, mega, gigantic difference. I no longer have the brightness set to +30 (Sony sucks). It's now at -10 on low lamp mode. I no longer have halos and sharpness rings and the picture is 25 to 40% sharper at JVC sharpness of 0. It's the biggest AV upgrade I've ever made and I've made quite a few. Love it! Don't listen to all that nonsense about over saturation. It has a very rich picture. It reminds me of my Pioneer Elite Plasmas.


Now on to my problems. After finally getting my AVM 50 settled in at 1.11e I have now introduced some new issues with the RS-1 addition. The main issue is every time I change the channel on the set top box I get an extended blue screen between channel changes (very annoying). I used to have this issue with the Pearl and AVM 50 but 1.11e fixed it. The original problem also introduced the blue screen into all programming in 15 second intervals making STB watching impossible. The new blue screen only appears when I switch channels. Is there a fix for this? Has anyone else seen this issue with Anthem and RS-1's?


Additionally, I have a question about the proper set up for my RS-1 and the AVM 50. The RS-1 menu gives me two options for the HDMI set up. One is standard and the other is enhanced. I have no idea to which I should use? I've tried both and I kind of think enhanced looks better. Does anyone know? Thoughts?


Lastly, my Xbox HD DVD drive has all of a sudden started freaking out. Some days it will play the HD DVD and some days it won't. No logic or consistency to the problem. When it does play it goes into a locked state after an hour and I have to reboot the damn thing. One time I was able to capture an event code (C667000b). Of course those pigs at MS wouldn't help because it's out of warranty. Thoughts? Surely this isn't RS-1 related.... Should I toss it or replace it?


Thanks in advance to all you super AV freaks of nature for your help. The guidance and support in the past has been phenomenal....


----------



## Randall Morton

Big Tex,

I can't help with all your questions, but a couple of things stuck out. First, I've never heard of anyone that needed to set their brightness on the RS1 at -10. Most everyone I've read about is very close to being correct at 0 from the factory. You are most likely crushing blacks and this is why the enhanced mode looks better. Standard mode is normally used with DVD players and cable boxes. Enhanced is usually used with a computer. Use your test patterns to check your black levels to be sure.


Cable boxes can be problematic, especially for an HDMI connection. Try using component if you can't resolve the problem. I have my background screen set to black so I don't see the blue screens but I do get a couple of seconds delay when switching channels. I record most of my programming and do not channel surf normally.


You really don't have to read this whole thread, just read the first post which should answer most of your setup questions.


----------



## Big Tex

Randall,


Would the AVM 50 be considered a "computer"? Should I set it to enhanced mode? I have a Dalite HP screen and I only sit 13 feet from the 96 inch screen. The projector is 16 feet from the screen. How to most people connect their RS-1 to their AVM or D2?


FYI: Just checked my RS-1 settings from watching Deja Vu last night (cool flick!) and I had the contrast set to +12 and Brightness set to -6. Thoughts on this? Dumb? I liked the look.


Do most people keep 0 and 0 with Enhanced or Regular HDMI mode?


Great idea about setting the back ground to black. Hopefully there's a better long term solution out there. I find it interesting that this problem only surfaced when I hooked up the RS-1.


Thanks for the quick response and help.


----------



## Fishysan

BigT - the "blue screen" is likely because your cable/sat box is renegotiating HDMI handshakes with things. Do you have the repeater set to "no" for all devices? That way it doesn't have to go through the AVM50 to the RS1, and back, etc. Set to no it just goes to the AVM50. You'll likely still get it, but setting it to black and then not sweating about it is your best bet.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Would the AVM 50 be considered a "computer"? Should I set it to enhanced mode?



What he means is as a source device... unless you are using an HTPC (the computer he means) or an odd source which uses PC based range, you want to use Standard for all of your normal devices ( DVD, cable, etc. )


PC range is 0-255 and Standard is 16-236 (or something close to that) which is why you need to pay attention to that setting.


Hope that helps.


----------



## Randall Morton

Big Tex,

You are welcome. The AVM 50 may be considered a computer, but that is not what I meant. I was talking about a computer as a source using the RS1 display as your computer desktop.


Try setting your RS1 back to 0 and 0 for your Brightness and Contrast and check your black level with one of the D2 test patterns or use a calibration disc. You need to do this for each source. Set your input color space to Auto YCbCr and Studio RGB. Then check each source with your color bars test pattern(D2 menu) for your black levels and adjust as necessary.


----------



## Egan

I've got my PS3 set to output LPCM via HDMI to the D1-HD. D1-HD HDMI input set to digital in setup. The display on the D1 says 5.1 Dolby Digital EX when playing a blu ray disc. There are no options on any disc menu to change audio playback. Am I getting the benefit of LPCM? What should the D1 be displaying when playing back a LPCM soundtrack? The sound is not all that impressive to my ears. Thanks.


----------



## PooperScooper

In the source settings on the D1-HD for the PS3 set the 6.0 channel mode to "None". When playing the uncompressed PCM tracks on BDs you will get the 6 (5.1) channels of PCM. You should see options on the BDs for uncompressed PCM or DD or DD+ in the audio setup menu, I forget what formats come on BDs.


larry


----------



## Egan

Thanks larry, I finally figured out how to output LPCM from the PS3, it was not intuitive, there was no audio setup menu at all. I'll change the 6.0 channel to "none".


----------



## Big Tex

Fishy,


So in summary; since I take all of my content (DVD, HD DVD, Blue Ray, & STB) through the AMV 50 to the RS-1 I should keep the RS-1 HDMI setting at standard. Correct?


Great idea on the repeater. Where do I access this menu? AVM, STB? You're talking to a peon....


Thanks!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It doesn't work fine for everyone using the 1.11 firmware when going from the Pioneer Elite to the RS1. I know Rob Tomlin and I have both had problems with stuttering.
> 
> I didn't have the HDMI audio problem, well at least not always. Sometimes even with the latest firmware it takes a while to lock on the 1080P/24 source direct. The BDP HD1 always worked great at 24fps when going directly to the RS1.



Correct, and our stuttering with the Pioneer Elite>D2>RS1 sounds like it was virtually identical (occurring every 45 -50 seconds or so). Encouraging to hear that 1.12k may have resolved this issue.


----------



## PaulT_BC

Hey - any of you guys in the Seattle area? From quick reading I don't think so.


Kurt at Blue Jeans Cable has some new HDMI cables he needs testing. Figured the gear you are all running could give it a workout.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post10456710


----------



## ANSEK

My D2 and A5 arrive the first week in June. These will be my first balanced / XLR devices. Whose cables do you recommend for connecting these two devices?


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My D2 and A5 arrive the first week in June. These will be my first balanced / XLR devices. Whose cables do you recommend for connecting these two devices?


 http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/...udio/index.htm 


Top notch cables at reasonable prices.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I find it strange that your audio drops with the 1.11e.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I use the Pioneer Elite BD player, I always turn on the player first and then turn on the Anthem. I don't usually have any audio problems. The picture will blink black to blue serveral times before it finds sync. It has done this with all the firmware versions. I'm also using the latest firmware for the Pioneer and RS1. The 1.11k has problems with the Toshiba XA2. The XA2 has a very difficult time to sync with this firmware and then it may or may not have audio. Once it syncs with audio it plays fine. My computer(DVI to HDMI), DVHS decks, and SA8300(HDMI) all work fine with this firmware. I'm mostly watching Blu Ray now and I hope we get a new firmware by the time Toshiba gives us the 1080P/24 firmware upgrade.




Yesterday night was my last night with the BEnq W9000 I was trying. I did some comparison with the W9000 and the RS1 at 24fps and the D2 using 1.11e. With the PIoneer Blu-Ray as the source I was going back and forth between 1080p60 and 1080p24 and this is what I measured:


1) Pioneer directly connected to the RS1


Switching form 1080p24 to 1080p60 = 3 sec in average

Switching form 1080p60 to 1080p24 = 7-8 sec in average


2) Pioneer directly connected to the W9000


Switching form 1080p24 to 1080p60 = 3 sec in average

Switching form 1080p60 to 1080p24 = 6 sec in average


3) Pioneer connected to the RS1 through the D2


Switching form 1080p24 to 1080p60 = 10-20 sec in average

Switching form 1080p60 to 1080p24 = Between 10 sec and up to 1 minutes in average no HDMI Audio


4) Pioneer connected to the W9000 through the D2


Switching form 1080p24 to 1080p60 = 7 sec in average

Switching form 1080p60 to 1080p24 = 10 sec in average no HDMI Audio


Conclusion the 1080p24 synchronization with the RS1 is more difficult. Meanwhile, when the sync is established the image is solid nu judder no shuttering. In all case the audio is lost on HDMI when the D2 is sending 24fps.


This week-end I will try 1.12k.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This week-end I will try 1.12k.



Well - Gee Ya - any testing with the D2 and not using 1.12k

is probably just a waste of time since obviously we all know

the D2 HDMI handshake until 1.12k has been WRONG.


----------



## DSNORD

I need some recommendations as to possible next steps:


Out of 2 new D2s (Gennum 9350) used with a new Comcast DCT3416 DVR and a new Pearl, only 1 could do 1080i to 1080p over HDMI using 1.11g and neither could do it with 1.11e. I stopped research on the functioning setup at that point so as not to disturb the Karma.


Out of 2 new AVM50s (Gennum 9350) with 3 different new Comcast DVR 3416s (including the one that works with the Pearl above), an XBox 360 with latest firmware , and a new Sharp LC46D92U, neither can do 1080i to 1080p over HDMI OR component using 1.11e or g.


480i/480p/720p out from the DVR or Xbox work fine on all 4 Anthem units over either HDMI or component.


All DVRs and XBox feeding the Sharp directly work fine over HDMI at 720p or 1080i.


Disconnecting the Sharp HDMI does nothing- I can watch the front panel of the AVM50 and still see it struggling with the 1080i input from the DVR/Xbox.


AVM50 HDMI repeater function set OFF usually doesn't work at all. Set ON and picture appears for anywhere from 3-7 seconds with 1.11e to 3-4 minutes with 1.11g before being lost. Handshake recycles and picture resumes for a few seconds then is lost.


Occassionally a blue screen comes up for a few seconds stating the HDCP of the repeater has been compromised and repeater function will not work on various video signal inputs. It clicks off too fast for me to ever see it long enough to write down the whole message.


On 720p from the DVR, On Demand function works except there is no audio on HD music videos/concerts although audio is fine on non-music HD content.


Multiple different high quality cables have been tried to no avail.


For some reason, these AVM50s hate 1080i from any source over any input type with 1.11e or g but the one D2 is okay with it over HDMI with 1.11g but not 1.11e. I'm not yet up to tearing the systems apart to test the D2 on the Sharp system upstairs. Obviously if it, did that would really pinpoint the AVM50 as the problem child.


Any thoughts will be appreciated. The Nutech regional distributor, my dealer/installer, and Anthem are not sure what's up. Anthem doesn't have Comcast up there to test it out. I've spoken to Nick and Bill Mickelson of Anthem.


Thanks, Scott


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well - Gee Ya - any testing with the D2 and not using 1.12k
> 
> is probably just a waste of time since obviously we all know
> 
> the D2 HDMI handshake until 1.12k has been WRONG.



I know but at the same time using 1.12k may screw up my connection with the XA2. I am a bit afraid at using it. And these measurements took a big 20 minutes.


I just wanted to clarify that it is more difficult to get the RS1 to sync through the D2 than other projector.


This week-end I will install 1.12k but if it mess my XA2 I will revert to 1.11e. For me the XA2 stable is more important than having 24fpos at this point. In a week from now I will be getting the Matrix Ultimate on HD DVD and obviously need to have the XA2 stable by than, there will just be too many peoples in the room to start having issues.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know but at the same time using 1.12k may screw up my connection with the XA2. I am a bit afraid at using it. And these measurements took a big 20 minutes.
> 
> 
> I just wanted to clarify that it is more difficult to get the RS1 to sync through the D2 than other projector.
> 
> 
> This week-end I will install 1.12k but if it mess my XA2 I will revert to 1.11e. For me the XA2 stable is more important than having 24fpos at this point. In a week from now I will be getting the Matrix Ultimate on HD DVD and obviously need to have the XA2 stable by than, there will just be too many peoples in the room to start having issues.


*Tolstoi* - The XA2 is obsolete







No HD DVDs to watch. All

the Content is on Blu-Ray










I am format neutral - but I honestly have not bought or even

rented a HD DVD since December.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSNORD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any thoughts will be appreciated. The Nutech regional distributor, my dealer/installer, and Anthem are not sure what's up. Anthem doesn't have Comcast up there to test it out. I've spoken to Nick and Bill Mickelson of Anthem.
> 
> 
> Thanks, Scott



All I can add is - I have Comcast here.


I have 3 DVRs hooked to my D2 running Vanilla 1.11.

They all work perfectly taking 1080i in from the DVRs

and sending 1080p to my Ruby!


What might my SECRET be










I use SONY DHG-HDD500 DVRs


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Tolstoi* - The XA2 is obsolete
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No HD DVDs to watch. All
> 
> the Content is on Blu-Ray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am format neutral - but I honestly have not bought or even
> 
> rented a HD DVD since December.



Right now any movies that are comming out on both format, I picked the one with the best audio track offering as a results:


The Parfum

Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind

Dreamgirls

DVE HD


And soon to watched:


The Matrix 3 films set

Lost in Translation


But I agree with you the ration is 3 Blu-Ray per HD DVD.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But I agree with you the ration is 3 Blu-Ray per HD DVD.



I saw a recent statistic published by a research

firm that got real numbers from Sellers like

Amazon and Best Buy.


The results are - *70% of all High-Def DVDs sold this

year have been Blu-Ray* and that percentage is still

increasing.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I saw a recent statistic published by a research
> 
> firm that got real numbers from Sellers like
> 
> Amazon and Best Buy.
> 
> 
> The results are - *70% of all High-Def DVDs sold this
> 
> year have been Blu-Ray* and that percentage is still
> 
> increasing.



It is in line with my own procurement. So statistically I represent the average. This is sad, I always though I was unique.










Meanwhile, let's not start in this thread another debate about sales ratios. I can't take then anymore.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, let's not start in this thread another debate about sales ratios. I can't take then anymore.



I'd like to 2nd that request.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, let's not start in this thread another debate about sales ratios. I can't take then anymore.



Not even Anthem versus Lexicon


----------



## Randall Morton

Anyone know for sure how the RS1 displays a 24P input signal. Is it at 48, 96, or is it even a multiple of 24, could it be displaying a 24P input as 60? Is this something that can be determined or does this information have to come from JVC?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know for sure how the RS1 displays a 24P input signal. Is it at 48, 96, or is it even a multiple of 24, could it be displaying a 24P input as 60? Is this something that can be determined or does this information have to come from JVC?



My understanding is that it displays it at 96hz.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My understanding is that it displays it at 96hz.



BUT - it is the RS1 converting 24Hz to 96Hz, not the D2.


That is what the Sony PJ does also.


----------



## Randall Morton

How do you know Rob? Is there a link to published info or is there a way to test this?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not even Anthem versus Lexicon










LOL!


But the official LA"BS" (Lexicon's Anthem bashing squad) of AVS is alot worst and better organized then any Blu-ray or HD DVD fanboy. Beware their wrath drhankz. Paying 2 times more money for less can make you really ANGRY!










And please don't mention the Holy Word "Halcro SSP100" in here, or else "you know who" will fall on us!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And please don't mention the Holy Word "Halcro SSP100" in here, or else "you know who" will fall on us!



YOU DID NOTICE - I left that out


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> YOU DID NOTICE - I left that out



Yes, I did. Waiting more then 1 year (and having to pay for it) for the multi-ch LPCM over HDMI patch (while Anthem got it right since the first day) can also make you REALLY angry.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not even Anthem versus Lexicon




This is a lost case.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BUT - it is the RS1 converting 24Hz to 96Hz, not the D2.
> 
> 
> That is what the Sony PJ does also.



I know for sure now it is converted and displayed at 96 hz by the RS1 not 48hz.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you know Rob? Is there a link to published info or is there a way to test this?



I don't recall exactly where I got that info. It is in the first post in the RS1 thread, and the source for that information should be posted there (I hope).


Edit: Tolstoi, how did you confirm the RS1 does 96hz?


----------



## Randall Morton

I think someone from JVC may have said it back before the production models were released, but that does not mean that it actually happened.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think someone from JVC may have said it back before the production models were released, but that does not mean that it actually happened.



Well, apparently Tolstoi has confirmed it.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, apparently Tolstoi has confirmed it.



I got the confirmation directly from JVC.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My D2 and A5 arrive the first week in June. These will be my first balanced / XLR devices. Whose cables do you recommend for connecting these two devices?



I personally make my own as I do some pro work in our country. Just get the 2 conductor and 1 ground FOIL type cable from BELDEN and use NEUTRIK XLR connectors. You will save a ton of money and better performance. Foil shielding makes the cable reject RF by an additional 20dB over rubber shielding.


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I personally make my own as I do some pro work in our country. Just get the 2 conductor and 1 ground FOIL type cable from BELDEN and use NEUTRIK XLR connectors. You will save a ton of money and better performance. Foil shielding makes the cable reject RF by an additional 20dB over rubber shielding.



This sounds difficult.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got the confirmation directly from JVC.



Thanks Tolstoi,

I just wanted to be sure. Actually Nick is the one that brought it up to me as he had sent an email to JVC and was waiting for a reply.


----------



## ankita




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I honestly don't recall if this changes anything on the A1/XA1... but in essence that is what it does on the G2 units.
> 
> 
> I suspect it has something to do with "master" clock being set at a certain sample rate, and if you are setting your player up with PCM over the SPDIF, this changes the clock for all digital audio, since it doesn't have the horsepower to do different sample rates on different outputs... a completely bizarre setup, completely undocumented, but I am sure some Toshiba engineer is very proud of himself



please tell me if my audio settings are correct

I have my Toshiba XA2 connected to avm 50 by HDMI

XA2 settings: digital SPDIF- bitstream, digital HDMI- PCM, 5.1 settings- all speakers set to large, sub=use Xover 120

AVM 50 display shows 5.1 digital 1080p. If I press display a couple of times 6 ch 48 khz shows up. I hope I am not losing any info by putting spdif to bitstream.

1. how can I be sure that I am getting dolby trueHD rather than DD 5.1 ?. I have selected dolby trueHD in the HD DVD disc menu settings.

2. what post processing modes can I use on avm 50 to enhance my audio experience with a 5.1 setup?. please walk me through various steps

thanks

ankita


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I personally make my own as I do some pro work in our country. Just get the 2 conductor and 1 ground FOIL type cable from BELDEN and use NEUTRIK XLR connectors. You will save a ton of money and better performance. Foil shielding makes the cable reject RF by an additional 20dB over rubber shielding.




I would call blue jeans cable (they use Belden and Neutrik). Unless you have a soldering iron and are good with it it's tough. I had bjc make up one end of 3 cables I needed, then I soldered the other ends on once I had fished them across the room. The soldering took about 15-20 min each.


----------



## cpcat

I got my XLR cables from mcmelectronics. They also use Neutrik connectors. I bet they're much cheaper than blue jeans cable.

http://www.mcmcables.com/cables/24-2...30D7E91B0F975B


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Edit: Tolstoi, how did you confirm the RS1 does 96hz?



Since Tolstoi was invited to the restaurant by Tom Stites from JVC, I bet he knows alot of things about the JVC projectors that we don't know...










Tolstoi has a really nice job where he can see all the new projectors from all the major manufacturers even before anyone else on AVS is able to see them. He probably has seen more projectors then all the "insiders" and sellers on AVS all together...










So if Tolstoi says 96 Hz, it is THE answer.







And when he talks about projectors, the ones he prefers, or the strenght or weakness of a projector, everyone should listen carefully, since he's one of the few that was able to actually see for real all the best projectors on the market...


I could say that Tolstoi is our equivalent of FilmMixer in here, but for video and projector instead of sound...







Tolstoi is really humble and will deny everything, but don,t listen to him, you can believe me.










We are REALLY lucky to have some truely knowledgeable guys like Tolstoi, FilmMixer, Bob Pariseau and alot of others I'm forgetting, participating in here and on AVS, talking with us and helping us on their free time just to be helpful and share their passion.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since Tolstoi was invited to the restaurant by Tom Stites from JVC, I bet he knows alot of things about the JVC projectors that we don't know...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tolstoi has a really nice job where he can see all the new projectors from all the major manufacturers even before anyone else on AVS is able to see them. He probably has seen more projectors then all the "insiders" and sellers on AVS all together...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if Tolstoi says 96 Hz, it is THE answer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when he talks about projectors, the ones he prefers, or the strenght or weakness of a projector, everyone should listen carefully, since he's one of the few that was able to actually see for real all the best projectors on the market...
> 
> 
> I could say that Tolstoi is our equivalent of FilmMixer in here, but for video and projector instead of sound...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tolstoi is really humble and will deny everything, but don,t listen to him, you can believe me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are REALLY lucky to have some truely knowledgeable guys like Tolstoi, FilmMixer, Bob Pariseau and alot of others I'm forgetting, participating in here and on AVS, talking with us and helping us on their free time just to be helpful and share their passion.



I deny everything


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Is anyone using a sdi modded dvd player with the d2 and what are the results?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since Tolstoi was invited to the restaurant by Tom Stites from JVC, I bet he knows alot of things about the JVC projectors that we don't know...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tolstoi has a really nice job where he can see all the new projectors from all the major manufacturers even before anyone else on AVS is able to see them. He probably has seen more projectors then all the "insiders" and sellers on AVS all together...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if Tolstoi says 96 Hz, it is THE answer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when he talks about projectors, the ones he prefers, or the strenght or weakness of a projector, everyone should listen carefully, since he's one of the few that was able to actually see for real all the best projectors on the market...
> 
> 
> I could say that Tolstoi is our equivalent of FilmMixer in here, but for video and projector instead of sound...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tolstoi is really humble and will deny everything, but don,t listen to him, you can believe me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are REALLY lucky to have some truely knowledgeable guys like Tolstoi, FilmMixer, Bob Pariseau and alot of others I'm forgetting, participating in here and on AVS, talking with us and helping us on their free time just to be helpful and share their passion.



That's good to know! I've always enjoyed his posts. You are right though, he seems to be quite modest about his knowledge.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I deny everything



See!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is anyone using a sdi modded dvd player with the d2 and what are the results?




That would be difficult there is no SDI input on the D2. And I don't think you want to modify a D2 to add that capabilitie.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

That's what I thought thanks.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since Tolstoi was invited to the restaurant by Tom Stites from JVC, I bet he knows alot of things about the JVC projectors that we don't know...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tolstoi has a really nice job where he can see all the new projectors from all the major manufacturers even before anyone else on AVS is able to see them. He probably has seen more projectors then all the "insiders" and sellers on AVS all together...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if Tolstoi says 96 Hz, it is THE answer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when he talks about projectors, the ones he prefers, or the strenght or weakness of a projector, everyone should listen carefully, since he's one of the few that was able to actually see for real all the best projectors on the market...
> 
> 
> I could say that Tolstoi is our equivalent of FilmMixer in here, but for video and projector instead of sound...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tolstoi is really humble and will deny everything, but don,t listen to him, you can believe me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are REALLY lucky to have some truely knowledgeable guys like Tolstoi, FilmMixer, Bob Pariseau and alot of others I'm forgetting, participating in here and on AVS, talking with us and helping us on their free time just to be helpful and share their passion.



Thanks for posting this LEVESQUE,

Its good to know a little about the really knowledgeable people we have here.

Oh, you accidentally omitted yourself from the list of knowledgeable people.


----------



## rudolpht

A little feedback on 1.12L. Reported already to Nick (as appropriate). Still no good with the XA2 even after a number of power cycles on both, can get silent video (and only after a long lag) and no HDMI audio . UNFORTUNATE, the audio on other formats is clearly superior (not a huge leap but enough to be noticeable, particularly on component video 1080i in). Back to 11e.


----------



## Randall Morton

I was going to try the 1.12L but the loader wasn't ready Wednesday. I guess there is no need now. I am back with e also, but I'm going to switch back to the 1.12K to watch a Blu-Ray at 24P. I can get a picture OK with the XA2 with the K but I've only been able to get sound to work one time.


----------



## ankita




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> please tell me if my audio settings are correct
> 
> I have my Toshiba XA2 connected to avm 50 by HDMI
> 
> XA2 settings: digital SPDIF- bitstream, digital HDMI- PCM, 5.1 settings- all speakers set to large, sub=use Xover 120
> 
> AVM 50 display shows 5.1 digital 1080p. If I press display a couple of times 6 ch 48 khz shows up. I hope I am not losing any info by putting spdif to bitstream.
> 
> 1. how can I be sure that I am getting dolby trueHD rather than DD 5.1 ?. I have selected dolby trueHD in the HD DVD disc menu settings.
> 
> 2. what post processing modes can I use on avm 50 to enhance my audio experience with a 5.1 setup?. please walk me through various steps
> 
> thanks
> 
> ankita



no help so far . still waiting for anthem gurus to help me out.


----------



## PooperScooper

If you have only HDMI connected to the AVM50 and select TrueHD on a disc, you will be getting TrueHD decoded into PCM into the AVM50. S/PDIF settings shouldn't matter - it's for coax/optical output.


larry


----------



## obie_fl

Apparently the S/PDIF setting on the 2nd gen Toshiba HD DVDs does make a difference. It turns upsampling on/off, look back a couple of pages for a post from FilmMixer. On my A1 the setting doesn't seem to have any affect as I always get upconverted 96K PCM instead of the proper 48K.


----------



## cpcat

The s/pdif setting _does_ seem to effect the LPCM output from the XA2 when playing HDDVD's. Setting it to "PCM" causes the XA2 to upsample to 6 ch/96khz for HDDVD while "bitstream" results in 6ch/48khz.


For SDDVD it always results in 6ch/48khz with 5.1 sources.


Looks like obie beat me to it.










Ankita:


Since my system is 5.1 (technically 5.0 actually), I've been leaving the AVM50 mode set to "none" and not applying any post-processing.


----------



## kshipe

Okay, I need help. I am a new D2 owner and just got it connected last night and have a couple of settings questions specific to my situation, I searched but could not find specific answers, thanks for all help in advance:


1) I have a Toshiba XA-1, when playing a I have the 6 channel track set to none and the XA-1 set to pcm output yet I am still getting it to showing 5.1 96khz instead of 48khz with Dolby TrueHD, I got the impression this is just the Toshiba upsampling, I can not find a way around it, is there one? (I see there seems to be a way with the XA-2) Also I keep reading how the TrueHD needs the lfe channel to be boosted by +10db, where should I do that? in the source setting under LF?


2) My speakers are Martin Logan Obysseys for the front, Theatre center, and Scripts on the side and rear with a Velodyne HGS-15 sub (my amp is a Sunfire signature cinema seven). Would you suggest with these speakers and sub setting speakers to large or small?


----------



## dknight

What is all this talk of 1.12x firmwares? I assumed that at some point we would hit a 1.12 (which would be once the 1.11x became stable enough) and then we would start seeing 1.12x beta firmwares after that. 1.11 is still all that is available on the Anthem website.


I'm still using 1.11e with my XA2, PS3, and HR20-700. Things seem pretty stable, although I think my HR20 is having some occasional issue that is causing it to hang or reboot every few days (about once a week). I think it is some kind of HDMI handshaking issue, but can't be sure.


Are any newer firmwares working well with the XA2?


-Dave


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Yeah, it looks like Nick and the guys are releasing new beta firmwares in a flurry here lately. That's a good sign in my book.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kshipe* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, I need help. I am a new D2 owner and just got it connected last night and have a couple of settings questions specific to my situation, I searched but could not find specific answers, thanks for all help in advance:
> 
> 
> 1) I have a Toshiba XA-1, when playing a I have the 6 channel track set to none and the XA-1 set to pcm output yet I am still getting it to showing 5.1 96khz instead of 48khz with Dolby TrueHD, I got the impression this is just the Toshiba upsampling, I can not find a way around it, is there one? (I see there seems to be a way with the XA-2) Also I keep reading how the TrueHD needs the lfe channel to be boosted by +10db, where should I do that? in the source setting under LF?
> 
> 
> 2) My speakers are Martin Logan Obysseys for the front, Theatre center, and Scripts on the side and rear with a Velodyne HGS-15 sub (my amp is a Sunfire signature cinema seven). Would you suggest with these speakers and sub setting speakers to large or small?



Reports are that the XA1 upsampling to 96khz can't be disabled. I wouldn't sweat it too much. I have the option on my XA2 and I can't hear a difference anyway.


Just set all speakers to Large, distances to zero, levels to zero, sub=use, and crossover to 120 on the XA1. This disables bass management in the player. Then use the D2 to do everything. As long as you have V1.11 software, the +10db LFE boost is done automatically.


----------



## cpcat

Well, I couldn't resist. Got the oppo 970hd so I could see what 480i via HDMI to my AVM50 looks like for SDDVD. To be brief, it looks great. Noticeably better than either HDMI 480p or 1080p from the XA2. Noticeably smoother and with less artifacting and noise than via 480i over component from either my old Sony DVP9000 or from the XA2.


I'd say this is a steal for 150 bucks for D2/AVM50 owners. The differences might be more subtle on smaller screens but for my 110 inch it's a pretty big jump in PQ. Pj is a Sony Pearl.


The only reason I'll keep the XA2 now is for the 1080p24 upgrade. In retrospect, I should have gotten the cheaper A20.


Just for completeness' sake, here are pics of the AVIA resolution pattern (now including the HDMI 480i from the Oppo). Be sure to maximize them for clarity.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The only reason I'll keep the XA2 now is for the 1080p24 upgrade. In retrospect, I should have gotten the cheaper A20.



That upgrade was PROMISED back ay CES.


Maybe they meant 2008


----------



## runnerlk

After much deliberation, I will be going back to tubes for my 2 channel. I have have a B&K 200.7 for HT and a Rogue Audio Stereo 90 for music. While the B&K is fine for HT none of the SS amps I auditioned sounded anything like the Rogue. So the question becomes, how much tube gear am I going to bring back? Can my D2 really give me the warmth that I crave for music. If I use the analog audio in is it just a pass through? Can the Oppo 970 via HDMI give me the sound i crave? Or should I blow the dust off of my Consonance Tube SACD player? Hoping to not end up with 2 complete systems but the D2/OPPO just not cuttin it. I'll try just adding the Rogue amp for now and see what happens. Interested on how others have dealt with this dilemma.


thanks,


Lou


----------



## AnthemAVM

I can't seem to figure this out.


I am using my Denon 3910 to play the DTS sample disk. How do I get it to play in a 7.1. When I go to change the surround mode it doesn't give me the option.


Any ideas?


UPDATE: I figured it out, requires you to bring THX processing into the soundtrack.


Thanks


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I couldn't resist. Got the oppo 970hd so I could see what 480i via HDMI to my AVM50 looks like for SDDVD. To be brief, it looks great. Noticeably better than either HDMI 480p or 1080p from the XA2. Noticeably smoother and with less artifacting and noise than via 480i over component from either my old Sony DVP9000 or from the XA2.
> 
> 
> I'd say this is a steal for 150 bucks for D2/AVM50 owners. The differences might be more subtle on smaller screens but for my 110 inch it's a pretty big jump in PQ. Pj is a Sony Pearl.
> 
> 
> The only reason I'll keep the XA2 now is for the 1080p24 upgrade. In retrospect, I should have gotten the cheaper A20.
> 
> 
> Just for completeness' sake, here are pics of the AVIA resolution pattern (now including the HDMI 480i from the Oppo). Be sure to maximize them for clarity.



Yes, unprocessed 480i over HDMI into the D2 is as close to something like an SDI output as we're going to get. I'm thrilled with the picture quality, on a 123 inch Firehawk from a Ruby. That Oppo is a killer deal - and it plays CD, HDCD, DVD-A and SACD on top of all this. (But, it has the WORST remote - all those same size little buttons that are impossible to differentiate in the dark - gotta get a programmed remote happening soon!)


Some of the OTA HD broadcast is pretty fine as well. I'm embarassed to say I still don't have HD-DVD/BD yet - but when I do, I'll experience another jump in quality, I'm sure.


----------



## KrisHur

I tried searching the thread but can't find where to purchase the AVM-50. The local dealer that comes up from the Anthem site told me not to spend for it and instead buy a Tivo cable box since the primary reason I'm looking to purchse the AVM is bad picture quality from SD cable channels. He said that would be greatly improved with a new cable box and not to spend the $$$ on the Anthem. He also said that Anthem was out of the "video chips" and it would be a while before he could get me one.


Sounds fishy to me and I'd like to talk to someone else--any recommendations on a dealer?


Thanks,

Kris


----------



## cpcat

There's a dealer search engine on Anthem's website. Anthem and Statement are two separate lines.


That dealer is FOS. That's my opinion of course.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KrisHur* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tried searching the thread but can't find where to purchase the AVM-50. The local dealer that comes up from the Anthem site told me not to spend for it and instead buy a Tivo cable box since the primary reason I'm looking to purchse the AVM is bad picture quality from SD cable channels. He said that would be greatly improved with a new cable box and not to spend the $$$ on the Anthem. He also said that Anthem was out of the "video chips" and it would be a while before he could get me one.
> 
> 
> Sounds fishy to me and I'd like to talk to someone else--any recommendations on a dealer?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kris



Oh man, Kris, Kris my man, my friend, my compadre, can I just tell you that this dealer of yours needs to be hit over the head with a clue-by-four. This guy is a piece of work for sure. He's playin some serious games with you. Let me try to break this down for you...


So, the symptom of crappy SD cable broadcasts, ok, fair enough, it's a well-known problem out there. Switching to an HD Tivo Series 3 box will of course allow you to receive all the HD cable channels you wanna get from your cable provider, using Cablecards, and you won't find a bigger fan of the Series 3 for PQ and overall usability than me - it's a damn good box, and the dual tuner HD functionality is just what the doctor ordered. But let me make something clear here - you are switching in that case from SD crap to gorgeous HD signals - of COURSE the quality is going to be night and day difference. But to say that the nifty Series 3 Tivo is a replacement for the Anthem D2/AVM-50 is a HUGE leap. It's like telling a yachtsman that you will solve all his problems with an S-series Mercedes. The question is "what are you looking to accomplish?". Said differently, "why do you believe you want a D2 or AVM50?". Not trying to be patronizing here, but it would be helpful if you describe for us what your goals are - what are you trying to achieve? What are your other sources? List for us all your other equipment so we can get a better picture of how you would benefit from the AVM50. What are your needs right now, and also, what do you imagine your needs to be in the next 3-5 years (I know this hurts, but I bet you have some idea of where you're headed with this hobby in the next 3-5 years)?


If the answer is that your only major need is for your cable TV reception to improve to HD quality and have a nice way to record those HD and SD broadcasts, then yeah, a Tivo Series 3, for about 500 after rebate these days, yeah, you're good, buy the Tivo and forget about everything, put your left over money under the mattress and save it for something else that comes along that you actually need.


But, if the answer is that you would like to have multi-zone, multi-room control of a whole-house audio/video solution, or if you would like to have fantastic video processing up to 1080p for all video sources you own now and/or in the future, or if you would like a top-notch preamp that is flexible enough to handle virtually all post-processing needs, or if you want to control an independent Record Zone, or if you want to have top-notch audio and video from all your current and future sources, or if you envision using the multiple HDMI source capability to control BD/HD DVD, DVD or gaming sources, etc etc, than the D2 or AVM50 is a FANTASTIC solution, and one that cannot be replaced by the lovely Tivo Series 3 box. They are in 2 different leagues my friend, they are serving 2 totally different purposes. Needless to say, they are in 2 totally different leagues money-wise, for good reason.


You have to figure out what your needs are, and whether the great functionality and capability of the AVM50 is really something that you need, and then make a decision from there. Again, both products are PHENOMENAL at what they do - the only question is what are your current priorities and needs right now? What are the rest of your components? What sources do you use today? What do you envision using in the future? Take a step back, really analyze what your plans are in audio/video, and then the decision will become more obvious to you.


As for a decent dealer, go see Ensemble in Nashua NH. I know it's a serious hike from you in upstate NY, but NH is a lovely drive in the summer, and the lack of sales tax will more than make up for the cost of the gas to get there (even at 4 bucks a gallon!). Seriously, they know their stuff, they will get you a good deal, and they stand by their sales. Call them up and ask for John. They have been selling Anthem/Statement/Paradigm gear for a LONG time.


Let me know how you make out, I genuinely wanna help you make a good decision if I can. Hopefully, this triggers some more ideas for ya. Let us know your thoughts.


All the best,

Brian


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KrisHur* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tried searching the thread but can't find where to purchase the AVM-50. The local dealer that comes up from the Anthem site told me not to spend for it and instead buy a Tivo cable box since the primary reason I'm looking to purchse the AVM is bad picture quality from SD cable channels. He said that would be greatly improved with a new cable box and not to spend the $$$ on the Anthem. He also said that Anthem was out of the "video chips" and it would be a while before he could get me one.
> 
> 
> Sounds fishy to me and I'd like to talk to someone else--any recommendations on a dealer?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kris



I'm not sure where the Anthem dealers are closest to you, but a possibility is 6th Avenue Electronics, which is a chain with lots of stores in New Jersey and one in New York. I'm not too crazy about their salesmen (hit or miss), but they generally have Anthem products in their showroom to demo. I went to one which had the Anthem D2, Paradigm Signature speakers, and the Sony Ruby (which was a "hot" projector back then) all setup in one room.


----------



## Bose_Killer

I recently received and connected my D2 replacing a Krell Showcase. I configured the inputs for the sources that have HDMI outputs and they are working great. My XBOX 360 does not have an HDMI output so I have connected it via one of the component inputs of the D2, but it is not being output on the HDMI out. So I connected the component output of the D2 to my display and still no video. I've resigned myself to the fact that I must have a defective D2 unless someone can help me out with this.


Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KrisHur* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tried searching the thread but can't find where to purchase the AVM-50. The local dealer that comes up from the Anthem site told me not to spend for it and instead buy a Tivo cable box since the primary reason I'm looking to purchse the AVM is bad picture quality from SD cable channels. He said that would be greatly improved with a new cable box and not to spend the $$$ on the Anthem. He also said that Anthem was out of the "video chips" and it would be a while before he could get me one.
> 
> 
> Sounds fishy to me and I'd like to talk to someone else--any recommendations on a dealer?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kris



I must agree and disagree with your dealer.


If you are just trying to improve poor SD Cable Picture Quality

= By all means the D2 or AVM50 is NOT the right thing for that.

Talk to your Cable Company and get Digital HD Cable Box.


As for the other excuse your dealer gave you - others have

said FOS







- I agree with the others on that point.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bose_Killer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I recently received and connected my D2 replacing a Krell Showcase. I configured the inputs for the sources that have HDMI outputs and they are working great. My XBOX 360 does not have an HDMI output so I have connected it via one of the component inputs of the D2, but it is not being output on the HDMI out. So I connected the component output of the D2 to my display and still no video. I've resigned myself to the fact that I must have a defective D2 unless someone can help me out with this.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Did you set up the input for the Xbox? Go to the setup menu and under source setup be sure you've properly configured it. You'll need to assign a source for sound as well as a scaler input. Also, the numbering system on the back of the unit for the component inputs seems somewhat non-intuitive. Be sure you know the number i.e. Component 3 that you have connected to and configure the input accordingly to scale that source.


----------



## rudolpht

And make sure you are outputing on Component output 1 to the screen, unless you have done additional zone reconfiguration.


Just to verify it works directly to the set over component? You have the correct input for the set over component & HDMI. There should be no issue outputting the component video over the HDMI properly configured.


----------



## Bose_Killer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And make sure you are outputing on Component output 1 to the screen, unless you have done additional zone reconfiguration.
> 
> 
> Just to verify it works directly to the set over component? You have the correct input for the set over component & HDMI. There should be no issue outputting the component video over the HDMI properly configured.



That's why I suspect that there is a problem with the D2 because even if I configure all of my source equipment as Component inputs, (they are connected to the component inputs as well as the HDMI inputs because the cableing was already there from removing the Showcase) select component as the preferred video output and select the appropriate digital audio input's.....all I get is audio from every source. In addition to that when I turn of the main path I get a nice thump through all of my speakers, now that's quality. The only video I get out of the D2 aside from the OSD is HDMI. Has anyone else heard of any issue like this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bose_Killer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's why I suspect that there is a problem with the D2 because even if I configure all of my source equipment as Component inputs, (they are connected to the component inputs as well as the HDMI inputs because the cableing was already there from removing the Showcase) select component as the preferred video output and select the appropriate digital audio input's.....all I get is audio from every source. In addition to that when I turn of the main path I get a nice thump through all of my speakers, now that's quality. The only video I get out of the D2 aside from the OSD is HDMI. Has anyone else heard of any issue like this?



Let's focus on Component video. As I understand it, you have now connected your sources as Component input to the D2. That's necessary since you can't get HDMI input to go to Component output (due to copy protection).


First verify that Component output from the D2 is working AT ALL. Select a D2 input that has no video source connected to it. Then go to the D2 Setup menu. Does that come up on your screen? Now back out of Setup and bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key). Scroll to the Patterns panel and scroll down and select any of the test patterns. They should come up and fill the screen. Back out of that.


If you can't get the Anthem's internally generated video to come up on the screen when using Component video output, then that's what you need to focus on first. Double check that you have selected the Component video input jacks IN YOUR TV.


Re-check your settings in Setup / Video Output -- using the Front Panel display and using the menu pictures in the user manual to keep from getting lost. Try changing the Data Format setting (RGB vs. YPbPr). Remember you have to Back out of that menu and Accept any such changes before they will take effect. Try different resolutions. Your TV may have different limits as to what it will accept via Component as compared to via HDMI.


-----------------------------------------------------------


Presuming you can now get the Anthem's internally generated video to come up on the screen, now select any of your Component video input sources. What do you see? A blue screen, a black screen, what? Now see if you can bring up the Video Source Adjust menu while that Component input is playing (even though you aren't seeing proper video on the TV). Then scroll to the Info panel and report back what it is showing for input and output status. Is it reporting any resolution for the Component video input?


There are only a few things you could possibly have set incorrectly that would cause loss of Component video, so let me list them:


* In Setup / Source Select you need to make TWO entries for each Component video source device. You need to specify Component in the Scaler Input line and you ALSO need to specify which set of Component jacks are being used for Component input in the Component Video In line. This is DIFFERENT from the way you specify an HDMI input.


* HDMI sources can not send video to D2 Component output due to HDMI copy protection. Also note that some HDMI source devices (usually older ones) will disable their Component outputs if there is an HDMI cable connected.


* Component video input and output resolution must be 1080i/60Hz (equals 1080p/30Hz) or less to be processed in the D2. Although the D2 can process up to 1080p/60Hz for HDMI it can only "pass through" Component 1080p/60Hz unprocessed. If you have a 1080p TV, go to to Setup / Video Output and set the D2's output resolution to 1080i/60Hz or lower to make sure you are not running afoul of this limitation.


* Component video output is limited to 480i or 480p if the video input source is "Macrovision" copy protected. To see if that is your problem, temporarily lower the Setup / Video Output setting to 480p. Note that this is *NOT* an issue for Component input to HDMI output.


* The Anthem has separate Component video output jacks for the Main path and the Zone 2 path. Be sure you have your TV cabled to the Main path output jacks. Also, be sure the plugs are fully inserted into the jacks.


* For each input, go to Video Source Adjust / Output, scroll down to Frame Lock, and verify that Frame Lock=OFF. This should be the default setting but it doesn't hurt to double check it's still set that way.


------------------------------------------------------------------


In terms of possible hardware issues, if you can't get the Anthem's own menus to come up on screen via Component output, despite trying different settings in the Setup / Video Output menu (and again while having selected an Anthem input that has NO VIDEO SOURCE connected to it), then yes that sounds like a hardware failure.


If you CAN get the Anthem's menus to display using Component output, but you still can't get a Component source recognized, then that's a real puzzle. We know your Component video output works, and we know the scaler works because it works for HDMI connections. That limits the possible problems to the Component video input selector or its data path to the scaler.


You could verify that the Component video input selector is working by connecting your display to the D2's Zone 2 Component video output, setting Setup / Video Output / Component 2 Output to be the UNPROCESSED version of the selected Main path source, and then seeing whether unprocessed video makes it from your Component source devices to your display.


As far as I know the last changes made that affected handling of Component video sources were in the V1.11g software, which you have already tried. If none of the above leads to a solution, then you will definitely have to work the issue with Anthem -- probably swapping out the unit.

--Bob


----------



## cpcat

Bose Killer:

FYI audible switching noise can be minimized or eliminated entirely by setting the individual input muting function to max.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is all this talk of 1.12x firmwares? I assumed that at some point we would hit a 1.12 (which would be once the 1.11x became stable enough) and then we would start seeing 1.12x beta firmwares after that. 1.11 is still all that is available on the Anthem website.
> 
> 
> I'm still using 1.11e with my XA2, PS3, and HR20-700. Things seem pretty stable, although I think my HR20 is having some occasional issue that is causing it to hang or reboot every few days (about once a week). I think it is some kind of HDMI handshaking issue, but can't be sure.
> 
> 
> Are any newer firmwares working well with the XA2?
> 
> 
> -Dave



HR20 reboot issues are more likely to be an HR20 problem. It may be seeing power glitches for example. Remember, for example, that common "surge protectors" don't last forever. Each surge uses up some of their limited life. Eventually they become nothing more than a power-strip with no actual surge protection.


That aside, I believe the most common HR20 reboot issues have to do with disk drive problems. But you should check on the DirecTV forum for whether the latest HR20 software is known to have issues.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> please tell me if my audio settings are correct
> 
> I have my Toshiba XA2 connected to avm 50 by HDMI
> 
> XA2 settings: digital SPDIF- bitstream, digital HDMI- PCM, 5.1 settings- all speakers set to large, sub=use Xover 120
> 
> AVM 50 display shows 5.1 digital 1080p. If I press display a couple of times 6 ch 48 khz shows up. I hope I am not losing any info by putting spdif to bitstream.
> 
> 1. how can I be sure that I am getting dolby trueHD rather than DD 5.1 ?. I have selected dolby trueHD in the HD DVD disc menu settings.
> 
> 2. what post processing modes can I use on avm 50 to enhance my audio experience with a 5.1 setup?. please walk me through various steps
> 
> thanks
> 
> ankita



Select the Dolby TrueHD track on your disc. While it is playing, press Select repreatedly on the D2 remote to bring up the various status displays. One of them will tell you the format of the incoming audio. It should read "6ch 48Khz". That means you are getting 6 channels of PCM audio via your HDMI connection rather than the lower quality "compatibility" or "core" audio track. Note that the Toshiba players are known to have a problem where they raise the 48Khz track to 96Khz -- poorly. If you see 96Khz and you are playing a 48Khz TrueHD track then you need to go in and change the rate setting for the XA2's SPDIF output. Yes I said SPDIF. The player mistakenly applies that setting to its HDMI output.


-------------------------------------------


If you have a 5.1 speaker setup, then the only audio mode option you have when playing a DD5.1 input is whether or not THX post processing is turned on. You can set this as the default for each style of incoming audio in the Setup / Source Setup menu, and you can change it on the fly while listening to a program by pressing the THX button the remote once and then using the Up and Down arrows to toggle the setting.


The other audio modes described in the manual for DD5.1 input are only relevant if you happen to have a 7.1 speaker setup. They alter the way in which the 5.1 channel input is processed to generate the extra surround channels for the rear speakers.


----------



## AnthemAVM

I was wondering what people like to set there systems to when they are watching a DTS movie, and want to get it to a 7.1 format. I have been using THX UltraCinema2.


Thanks


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Select the Dolby TrueHD track on your disc. While it is playing, press Select repreatedly on the D2 remote to bring up the various status displays. One of them will tell you the format of the incoming audio. It should read "6ch 48Khz". That means you are getting 6 channels of PCM audio via your HDMI connection rather than the lower quality "compatibility" or "core" audio track. Note that the Toshiba players are known to have a problem where they raise the 48Khz track to 96Khz -- poorly. If you see 96Khz and you are playing a 48Khz TrueHD track then you need to go in and change the rate setting for the XA2's SPDIF output. Yes I said SPDIF. The player mistakenly applies that setting to its HDMI output.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you have a 5.1 speaker setup, then the only audio mode option you have when playing a DD5.1 input is whether or not THX post processing is turned on. You can set this as the default for each style of incoming audio in the Setup / Source Setup menu, and you can change it on the fly while listening to a program by pressing the THX button the remote once and then using the Up and Down arrows to toggle the setting.
> 
> 
> The other audio modes described in the manual for DD5.1 input are only relevant if you happen to have a 7.1 speaker setup. They alter the way in which the 5.1 channel input is processed to generate the extra surround channels for the rear speakers.



Bob,


I noticed that when I turn on TrueDolbyHD, my volume drops about 15 points. Have you seen this?


Michael


----------



## jclem

Hey Anthem owners... Looking for some advice here. My basic question is; What unit to get, the 40, 50 or D2? If you already have a mid to top-notch 1080p PJ like the JVC hd/rs1, (which I don't , yet, but will in the future) which already produces an outstanding picture, do you need the video processing ability of the D2, or even the avm 50? Couldn't you just use the avm 40 for it's hdmi switching ability and great audio handling and rely on the PJ for picture quality? Or am I overlooking something important that the avm 50 or D2 have that the 40 doesn't? I'm just looking to try to save some $$$ to put toward the inevitable 1080p purchase for when my Dwin TV3e with 2600 bulb hrs wears out. However, I also don't want to be kicking myself 3 or 6 months down the road for not getting the D2 'cuz it has something I really need. My setup is a dedicated 7.2 HT which is 80/20 for movies/music. I appreciate any and all info from the experts in this forum.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSNORD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I need some recommendations as to possible next steps:
> 
> 
> Out of 2 new D2s (Gennum 9350) used with a new Comcast DCT3416 DVR and a new Pearl, only 1 could do 1080i to 1080p over HDMI using 1.11g and neither could do it with 1.11e. I stopped research on the functioning setup at that point so as not to disturb the Karma.
> 
> 
> Out of 2 new AVM50s (Gennum 9350) with 3 different new Comcast DVR 3416s (including the one that works with the Pearl above), an XBox 360 with latest firmware , and a new Sharp LC46D92U, neither can do 1080i to 1080p over HDMI OR component using 1.11e or g.
> 
> 
> 480i/480p/720p out from the DVR or Xbox work fine on all 4 Anthem units over either HDMI or component.
> 
> 
> All DVRs and XBox feeding the Sharp directly work fine over HDMI at 720p or 1080i.
> 
> 
> Disconnecting the Sharp HDMI does nothing- I can watch the front panel of the AVM50 and still see it struggling with the 1080i input from the DVR/Xbox.
> 
> 
> AVM50 HDMI repeater function set OFF usually doesn't work at all. Set ON and picture appears for anywhere from 3-7 seconds with 1.11e to 3-4 minutes with 1.11g before being lost. Handshake recycles and picture resumes for a few seconds then is lost.
> 
> 
> Occassionally a blue screen comes up for a few seconds stating the HDCP of the repeater has been compromised and repeater function will not work on various video signal inputs. It clicks off too fast for me to ever see it long enough to write down the whole message.
> 
> 
> On 720p from the DVR, On Demand function works except there is no audio on HD music videos/concerts although audio is fine on non-music HD content.
> 
> 
> Multiple different high quality cables have been tried to no avail.
> 
> 
> For some reason, these AVM50s hate 1080i from any source over any input type with 1.11e or g but the one D2 is okay with it over HDMI with 1.11g but not 1.11e. I'm not yet up to tearing the systems apart to test the D2 on the Sharp system upstairs. Obviously if it, did that would really pinpoint the AVM50 as the problem child.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts will be appreciated. The Nutech regional distributor, my dealer/installer, and Anthem are not sure what's up. Anthem doesn't have Comcast up there to test it out. I've spoken to Nick and Bill Mickelson of Anthem.
> 
> 
> Thanks, Scott



This is a real puzzle. As you described things, I can't find any common thread that would point to an answer.


However you have a sufficiently complicated collection of things going on here that I'm not sure I can piece together what's actually been tried and what's not been tried. I.e., we may be missing something simple.


My main suggestion is that you try simplifying things as much as possible in your AVM-50 setup and then start over in a logical path to see if you can isolate what's working and what's not.


That means you should have only one source device connected at a time, and it should be cabled in only one fashion. Similarly you should only have one type of cable running to your TV.


Then start by verifying that video output to your TV is working correctly by seeing if you can get the Anthem's internally generated video to display properly. This includes the Setup menu itself and also the menus and test patterns found in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key). To eliminate any confusion caused by the connected source device, first select an Anthem input that has NO VIDEO SOURCE connected to it. Then see if these Anthem-internal menus come up properly.


Once you know that is working, then start trying things with your connected source.


Keep in mind that there are some limitations on what video can be passed from input to output. For example, HDMI inputs can't go to Component output (due to copy protection). And Component video -- both input and output -- has to be 1080i/60Hz or lower to be "processed" in the Anthem's scaler. Although the Anthem can "process" HDMI 1080p/60Hz signals (both input and output), Component 1080p/60Hz can only be "passed through" unprocessed. If you have a 1080p TV this can cause confusion if you are trying to drive it with Component 1080p/60Hz video or if any Component source device is trying to send 1080p/60Hz to the Anthem.


--------------------------------------------------------------


Since you are having problems in multiple setups which all include a cable TV connection, I'm concerned that you may have a serious "ground loop" problem affecting your electronics. The normal symptom would be significant amounts of 60Hz "hum" -- primarily from your subwoofer. But even if you don't hear "hum", this bears consideration.


A "ground loop" is interference power that travels between devices along the shields of the cables connecting them. A VERY COMMON source of this is cable TV feeds. The interference is on the line coming into your house, and gets to your cable TV boxes because the feed line has not been properly grounded where it gets into your house, or the house cable TV wiring is not properly connected to that ground. The power (mostly 60Hz power-interference) travels between devices and eventually exits your system, usually by the ground prong of one or more of your power plugs. Along the way, it plays havoc with your electronics.


To see if this is the problem, temporarily disconnect ALL your cable TV boxes from the feed coming out of the wall (the TV cable line itself between the wall and the back of each cable TV receiver box).


If you also have a satellite TV system, disconnect it's feed line as well.


Then see if things work better. If you have programs already recorded on your cable DVR you can play them, independent of the live cable TV feed, to test things. If it turns out you have a "ground loop" problem, there are relatively easy fixes for that.


------------------------------------------------


One comment that I find hard to fathom is your comment that things work better with HDMI Repeater=YES set for any given HDMI input.


This is HIGHLY suspicious.


The cable TV boxes your are using, for example, are INFAMOUS for not working properly via HDMI unless you set HDMI Repeater=NO in the Anthem, which sets the Anthem to lie to the cable box -- telling it it is directly connected to a TV.


The various cable providers have been pushing out cable box software upgrades (without telling the customers) that are supposed to address this long standing bug in their Motorola boxes. Comcast, for example, has pushed out 3 different sets of software in different markets recently.


In your cable box menu, go to Cable Box Setup and select the Show Configuration option. You want to note both the software version (something between 69.xx and 74.xx) and the firmware version (something between 1100 and 1700). There is an article in Wikipedia on Motorola DVR boxes that discusses what appears to have changed in each software version. Newer software is not necessarily better in these boxes.


The 74.xx version software, in particular, includes HDMI changes that may be broken in your area (different cable providers send out different software builds).


---------------------------------------------------------------------------


The bottom line is that your Anthem settings for EACH AND EVERY input should work best as follows:


* Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater=No (if the input is HDMI)

* Setup / Source Setup / Auto Dig=No

* Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock=Off


Again, these settings must be set on a PER INPUT basis.


Also, go into Setup / Source Setup and select each of the overlayed inputs in turn (i.e., DVD1 vs. DVD2 vs. DVD3, etc.) You should go to the first line item in that menu for each of them and "Disable" any overlayed inputs you aren't actually using. For now, that should be ALL of them until we figure this out. I.e., disable DVD2, etc., TV2, etc.


This will make sure you haven't selected one of the overlayed inputs by accident while doing your tests. It is easy to select one by accident, and thus get an alternate set of Setup settings you weren't expecting. This can be very confusing if you don't realize it has happened.


----------------------------------------------------------------


Since I'm covering basics here, I'll also repeat here that the Anthem remote is a multi-device remote -- i.e., it can control your DVD player or TV in addition to the Anthem. But what can be extra confusing is that the Anthem itself is like THREE DIFFERENT DEVICES to the remote.


To set the remote to control the Main path of the Anthem, press the green "Main" key at the top of the remote. If things don't seem to be working properly, press that button again to make sure you haven't accidentally pressed another button up there and switched the remote.


Be careful not to confuse the buttons at the top of the remote -- which set the remote to control a particular device -- from the buttons at the bottom of the remote -- which tell the Anthem to switch to a different input source.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I noticed that when I turn on TrueDolbyHD, my volume drops about 15 points. Have you seen this?
> 
> 
> Michael



I'm not currently using any TrueHD source devices, but it wouldn't surprise me that they have mixed the track lower to account for the increased dynamic range of the track itself.


Others here will have to comment on whether or not this is normal.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Another milestone reached: This is now the 8th most Viewed thread in this forum.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Another milestone reached: This is now the 8th most Viewed thread in this forum.
> 
> --Bob



You have been MISSING in Action for a long time - BOB!


Did you take a VACATION?


----------



## Bose_Killer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Let's focus on Component video. As I understand it, you have now connected your sources as Component input to the D2. That's necessary since you can't get HDMI input to go to Component output (due to copy protection).
> 
> 
> First verify that Component output from the D2 is working AT ALL. Select a D2 input that has no video source connected to it. Then go to the D2 Setup menu. Does that come up on your screen? Now back out of Setup and bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key). Scroll to the Patterns panel and scroll down and select any of the test patterns. They should come up and fill the screen. Back out of that.
> 
> 
> If you can't get the Anthem's internally generated video to come up on the screen when using Component video output, then that's what you need to focus on first. Double check that you have selected the Component video input jacks IN YOUR TV.
> 
> 
> Re-check your settings in Setup / Video Output -- using the Front Panel display and using the menu pictures in the user manual to keep from getting lost. Try changing the Data Format setting (RGB vs. YPbPr). Remember you have to Back out of that menu and Accept any such changes before they will take effect. Try different resolutions. Your TV may have different limits as to what it will accept via Component as compared to via HDMI.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Presuming you can now get the Anthem's internally generated video to come up on the screen, now select any of your Component video input sources. What do you see? A blue screen, a black screen, what? Now see if you can bring up the Video Source Adjust menu while that Component input is playing (even though you aren't seeing proper video on the TV). Then scroll to the Info panel and report back what it is showing for input and output status. Is it reporting any resolution for the Component video input?
> 
> 
> There are only a few things you could possibly have set incorrectly that would cause loss of Component video, so let me list them:
> 
> 
> * In Setup / Source Select you need to make TWO entries for each Component video source device. You need to specify Component in the Scaler Input line and you ALSO need to specify which set of Component jacks are being used for Component input in the Component Video In line. This is DIFFERENT from the way you specify an HDMI input.
> 
> 
> * HDMI sources can not send video to D2 Component output due to HDMI copy protection. Also note that some HDMI source devices (usually older ones) will disable their Component outputs if there is an HDMI cable connected.
> 
> 
> * Component video input and output resolution must be 1080i/60Hz (equals 1080p/30Hz) or less to be processed in the D2. Although the D2 can process up to 1080p/60Hz for HDMI it can only "pass through" Component 1080p/60Hz unprocessed. If you have a 1080p TV, go to to Setup / Video Output and set the D2's output resolution to 1080i/60Hz or lower to make sure you are not running afoul of this limitation.
> 
> 
> * Component video output is limited to 480i or 480p if the video input source is "Macrovision" copy protected. To see if that is your problem, temporarily lower the Setup / Video Output setting to 480p. Note that this is *NOT* an issue for Component input to HDMI output.
> 
> 
> * The Anthem has separate Component video output jacks for the Main path and the Zone 2 path. Be sure you have your TV cabled to the Main path output jacks. Also, be sure the plugs are fully inserted into the jacks.
> 
> 
> * For each input, go to Video Source Adjust / Output, scroll down to Frame Lock, and verify that Frame Lock=OFF. This should be the default setting but it doesn't hurt to double check it's still set that way.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In terms of possible hardware issues, if you can't get the Anthem's own menus to come up on screen via Component output, despite trying different settings in the Setup / Video Output menu (and again while having selected an Anthem input that has NO VIDEO SOURCE connected to it), then yes that sounds like a hardware failure.
> 
> 
> If you CAN get the Anthem's menus to display using Component output, but you still can't get a Component source recognized, then that's a real puzzle. We know your Component video output works, and we know the scaler works because it works for HDMI connections. That limits the possible problems to the Component video input selector or its data path to the scaler.
> 
> 
> You could verify that the Component video input selector is working by connecting your display to the D2's Zone 2 Component video output, setting Setup / Video Output / Component 2 Output to be the UNPROCESSED version of the selected Main path source, and then seeing whether unprocessed video makes it from your Component source devices to your display.
> 
> 
> As far as I know the last changes made that affected handling of Component video sources were in the V1.11g software, which you have already tried. If none of the above leads to a solution, then you will definitely have to work the issue with Anthem -- probably swapping out the unit.
> 
> --Bob



My issue has been with the viewing the component output of my XBOX 360 via HDMI output. My XBOX 360's output resolution is configured set to 1080i which turns out is the issue.....if I change the output resolution to either 480P or 720p than I get video. So if I have a source component that does not allow me to alter the output resolution and it is set to 1080i than I will not be able to view it through the D2....is this correct. Every other scaler that I have worked with, mainly DVDO and Extron, you are able to input any resolution up to the maximum supported resolution and scale it to match the native resolution of the display. Is this scaler in the D2 not capable of this or do I have a hardware issue?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I noticed that when I turn on TrueDolbyHD, my volume drops about 15 points. Have you seen this?
> 
> 
> Michael



Michael, what do you mean when you say your volume "drops about 15 points"? You don't actually see the volume number on the D2 reduced from say "-10" to "-25" do you?


If you are just estimating the overall sound level drop, I can tell you that this is what I have experienced as well. The decrease in volume is rather substantial. This was with the HD-DVD of Happy Feet.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bose_Killer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My issue has been with the viewing the component output of my XBOX 360 via HDMI output. My XBOX 360's output resolution is configured set to 1080i which turns out is the issue.....if I change the output resolution to either 480P or 720p than I get video. So if I have a source component that does not allow me to alter the output resolution and it is set to 1080i than I will not be able to view it through the D2....is this correct. Every other scaler that I have worked with, mainly DVDO and Extron, you are able to input any resolution up to the maximum supported resolution and scale it to match the native resolution of the display. Is this scaler in the D2 not capable of this or do I have a hardware issue?



No, that's not what I said. Your XBOX should work just fine at 1080i into the D2. There are plenty of people doing this already. What I said was that 1080p to the Anthem would be a problem.


Now there is a known software issue that has affected a small percentage of D2 owners for 1080i or 1080p input (both HDMI and Component). But I believe you said that you've already tried the V1.11e test software from Anthem which fixes that problem. Is that correct? Did that software install complete without problems?


When you set your XBOX to Component 1080i output to the Anthem, what, if anything do you see as signal status in the D2's Video Source Adjust / Info panel? (select the XBOX input on the D2, press and hold the "7" key to get to this menu, then scroll to the Info panel)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You have been MISSING in Action for a long time - BOB!
> 
> 
> Did you take a VACATION?



Just seeing how well you guys do without me! (grin!)


It certainly doesn't seem to have reduced the traffic on this thread any.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Michael, what do you mean when you say your volume "drops about 15 points"? You don't actually see the volume number on the D2 reduced from say "-10" to "-25" do you?
> 
> 
> If you are just estimating the overall sound level drop, I can tell you that this is what I have experienced as well. The decrease in volume is rather substantial. This was with the HD-DVD of Happy Feet.




The D2 doesn't drop it, I need to turn it up to get to the same level as the standard Dolby Digital.


----------



## ankita

good to have you back Bob. thanks to everybody who patiently explain everything to a newbie like me. I have learnt a lot from this thread about anthem products and they are incredible


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 doesn't drop it, I need to turn it up to get to the same level as the standard Dolby Digital.



Yep, same here.


----------



## KrisHur

Brian (and all) thanks for all the info. I have an HD cable/DVR box but the dealer said since it was "produced for the masses" (Scientific Atlantic) it's crap; he claims and that the TiVo HD box will greatly improve the SD cable channels. I realize it's not going to be 1080i, but it's really awful now, anything would be an improvement--and we have tuned the display using both Aviva and Sound/Theater guide.


Also, I'm a bit confused, my understanding is that the best signal to send from the DVD is 480i over HDMI, if that is the case wouldn't the AVM do a good job of processing crappy SD 480i signal when sent from the HD cable box over HDMI? Or is the problem that SD is 480p and the AVM is not going to help much with that?


You're right I should spend a little more time analyzing my desires--we are completely disatisfied with the SD signal, I want to upgrade our current reciever to something in this century that will last for a little while, be able to run my PS3 through it, and get my husband a kick butt present for his first father's day.


Thanks,

Kris


Our system: Samsung 56 DLP HL-S5687W

Yamaha Natural Sound DSP-A1

Samsung DVD HD 860

Vienna Acoustics speakers (2 Beethoven, 2 Haydns, 1 Maestro)

Sunfire Mk2 Subwoofer

Monster Power conditioner


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just seeing how well you guys do without me! (grin!)



As you can see - we SAVED up all the questions

for you Mr. Anthem


----------



## Bob Pariseau

KrisHur,

SDTV and the content of standard DVDs are both 480i. The problem with viewing this stuff is to keep from doing damage to it before it gets to your screen.


Once damage is done, it is nigh unto impossible to undo it. So every stage of the video chain has to be considered.


If you have a crappy cable box, then it is likely screwing up the signal. Getting a better cable box will help. UNLESS the signal being sent to you by your cable company is crappy to begin with as is true in some markets for both analog and digital SD cable, and in other markets for analog cable but not so for digital cable.


Before you can view your SDTV on an HD-ready television, it has to be deinterlaced (480i -> 480p) and scaled (480p -> the HD resolution of your TV). This could be done in the cable box, or by your TV itself, or by a separate video processor like the Anthem. Probably the WORST place to do this stuff is in your cable box. The video circuits in these boxes are really awful. Getting a Tivo S3 is definitely an improvement. But it may be that your TV already does as good a job as what the Tivo will do.


In any event, it is almost certainly the case that the Anthem D2 or AVM-50 does this better than either of them. In addition, the Anthem lets you adjust your various video inputs to best match what your TV wants.


So the better your cable feed, cable box, and TV the *MORE LIKELY* it is that you will see the advantages of the video processing provided by the D2 or AVM-50.


The worse your cable feed, cable box, or TV the *LESS LIKELY* the Anthem will provide a noticeable improvement because the imaging is already being damaged in ways the Anthem can not counter. In fact, if you have a crappy link in this chain, upgrading the REST of your equipment may make video artifacts MORE NOTICEABLE. This is what many DirecTV customers are facing with the over-compressed SD channels on their satellite feed for example.


Now even with the best of the best setup, SDTV is not going to be HDTV. You can't invent content that isn't there to begin with. But I think you'd be amazed at just how good SDTV (and standard DVD for that matter) can look if the content is good (i.e., your cable company doesn't damage the feed), your source (cable box) is good, your TV is good, and you have a video processor as good as what's in the D2 and AVM-50.


====================================


EDITED TO ADD: If you can't buy everything at once, the best order to get these things, in terms of the amount of video improvement you will see, is:


1) Upgrade your TV, then

2) Upgrade your source devices, then

3) Upgrade your video processor


Now if you KNOW you are going to get all three relatively soon, then it really doesn't matter which order you go with. And if you know you are going to get a D2 or AVM-50 it might be nice to have that early on for when you may be doing TV evaluations.


But you really need to look to all three and balance your lust for video nirvana against your budget.

--Bob


----------



## Bose_Killer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, that's not what I said. Your XBOX should work just fine at 1080i into the D2. There are plenty of people doing this already. What I said was that 1080p to the Anthem would be a problem.
> 
> 
> Now there is a known software issue that has affected a small percentage of D2 owners for 1080i or 1080p input (both HDMI and Component). But I believe you said that you've already tried the V1.11e test software from Anthem which fixes that problem. Is that correct? Did that software install complete without problems?
> 
> 
> When you set your XBOX to Component 1080i output to the Anthem, what, if anything do you see as signal status in the D2's Video Source Adjust / Info panel? (select the XBOX input on the D2, press and hold the "7" key to get to this menu, then scroll to the Info panel)
> 
> --Bob



That was more of a rhetorical statement than a reiteration. I have not tried the V1.11E test software, is this the same as V1.11 download in the upgrade section on the Anthem web site? When I set my XBOX to 1080i in the info panel it says 4:4:4 and 0X0/0Hz.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KrisHur* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Brian (and all) thanks for all the info. I have an HD cable/DVR box but the dealer said since it was "produced for the masses" (Scientific Atlantic) it's crap; he claims and that the TiVo HD box will greatly improve the SD cable channels. I realize it's not going to be 1080i, but it's really awful now, anything would be an improvement--and we have tuned the display using both Aviva and Sound/Theater guide.
> 
> 
> Also, I'm a bit confused, my understanding is that the best signal to send from the DVD is 480i over HDMI, if that is the case wouldn't the AVM do a good job of processing crappy SD 480i signal when sent from the HD cable box over HDMI? Or is the problem that SD is 480p and the AVM is not going to help much with that?
> 
> 
> You're right I should spend a little more time analyzing my desires--we are completely disatisfied with the SD signal, I want to upgrade our current reciever to something in this century that will last for a little while, be able to run my PS3 through it, and get my husband a kick butt present for his first father's day.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kris
> 
> 
> Our system: Samsung 56 DLP HL-S5687W
> 
> Yamaha Natural Sound DSP-A1
> 
> Samsung DVD HD 860
> 
> Vienna Acoustics speakers (2 Beethoven, 2 Haydns, 1 Maestro)
> 
> Sunfire Mk2 Subwoofer
> 
> Monster Power conditioner



Ahh, Kris,


First of all, my bad for assuming you were male, ha, too funny, how quickly we ASS-ume in this racket  So, thanks for the comments, it helps understand things much better.


As Bob has quite well laid out, the 480i broadcast cable signals are often, but not always, horrible. That's why movies from SD cable at 480i often look horrible compared to a DVD of the exact same movie, also in 480i. I have Comcast, and I will give them some credit that at least in my area around Boston, the SD and HD signals are quite good, routinely hitting 95+ on every channel on the Tivo Series 3 signal strength metering. It is WAY better than the same channels from my DirecTV service, also through a Tivo, though it is the HR10-250. Not sure if you have Comcast or someone else there, but in any case, even if it is Comcast, different geographies have different cable quality, and it MAY be that signal quality from the cable provider is your main problem. That said...


I would say that the Tivo Series 3 would be a kick-ass Father's Day gift, and would certainly improve your Quality of Life with what I'm guessing is your main video source (HD and SD Television broadcasts). Especially in comparison to any Scientific Atlanta box, you are going to love the functionality, ease of use, etc of the Tivo - you can add more storage later if you run out of hard drive space on it, no big deal, it will grow with you. [Just be prepared for the cable company to come out and install the 2 cablecards, etc. which they are often confused by, but will eventually figure out for you; set aside a day for them to get you all set up that way - once set up, you and your husband will LOVE the Tivo HD box]. I would agree with Bob's inference that improving the source, in this case the cable TV source, is probably priority #1...it sounds like you really need to do that first...it may not make a dramatic improvement in PQ, but its likely to make some improvement, and at least you'll know you have done everything possible to make sure your cable signals are delivered on in as good a quality as they are being received...I can assure you that the Tivo does that very well.


Now, if you really really want to and can afford to take 2 major steps back to back, or essentially at once, with the Father's Day gift to end all gifts, then getting an Anthem D2 or AVM50 in addition to the Tivo S3 is just about the coolest thing you could ever do for any Father, especially a new one! The Anthem will make standard DVD's look really really good, especially if you can feed the Anthem 480i over HDMI. In this event, your SD and HD cable signals will also look even that much better, because then you can place the Tivo S3 in "native mode", which sends the video signal on to the D2 from the Tivo in exactly the same resolution as it was broadcast in. This is a benefit because then the D2/AVM50 can deinterlace and scale everything with the fine quality of its Gennum processor as opposed to using the scaler in the Tivo. Basically then, you'll just set the D2/AVM50 to output whatever the native rate of your Samsung display is (not sure if its 720p or 1080i or 1080p, but you get the idea), and the D2/AVM50 will make sure every source is scaled to that rate. Of course, the PS3 will look VERY nice processed through the D2/AVM50 as well, and any other sources that you might add later on. The D2 is a solid investment in my opinion, and a joy to use.


So, you have some decisions to make, but either way you go here is going to be an improvement from what you have now. Hope some of this was helpful, and good luck in whatever you decide!


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bose_Killer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That was more of a rhetorical statement than a reiteration. I have not tried the V1.11E test software, is this the same as V1.11 download in the upgrade section on the Anthem web site? When I set my XBOX to 1080i in the info panel it says 4:4:4 and 0X0/0Hz.



A HA! Still on the original software! OK, that's the critical part I missed.


Odds are, then, that you've just been bitten by the 1080i input bug.


The software available for download from the Anthem web site is still the original V1.11 software -- which is also what the factory loads onto new machines.


You should contact Anthem tech support, describe your problem to them (i.e., XBOX works fine when set for Component 720p to the Anthem, but no video when set for Component 1080i to the Anthem) and they will most likely email you the V1.11e test software for you to install.


That should fix you up.

--Bob


----------



## Bose_Killer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A HA! Still on the original software! OK, that's the critical part I missed.
> 
> 
> Odds are, then, that you've just been bitten by the 1080i input bug.
> 
> 
> The software available for download from the Anthem web site is still the original V1.11 software -- which is also what the factory loads onto new machines.
> 
> 
> You should contact Anthem tech support, describe your problem to them (i.e., XBOX works fine when set for Component 720p to the Anthem, but no video when set for Component 1080i to the Anthem) and they will most likely email you the V1.11e test software for you to install.
> 
> 
> That should fix you up.
> 
> --Bob



Is there anyone that can email this to me? I would really like to get this installed tonight.


----------



## ddimberio

I have broached this before in this thread, but I would like to get opinions one more time. What audio mode do you folks listen to when listening to standard CD's/media player with your D2's? I like to just listen to my front stage, the LCR's, and forget the sides and rears. I am running a paradigm C5 and 2 S8's. Right now, I have the Anthem music configured to no sides or surrounds and have for now settled on Dolby Pro Logic IIx music. Any thoughts, suggestions, or words of wisdom?


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have broached this before in this thread, but I would like to get opinions one more time. What audio mode do you folks listen to when listening to standard CD's/media player with your D2's? I like to just listen to my front stage, the LCR's, and forget the sides and rears. I am running a paradigm C5 and 2 S8's. Right now, I have the Anthem music configured to no sides or surrounds and have for now settled on Dolby Pro Logic IIx music. Any thoughts, suggestions, or words of wisdom?



For what it's worth, I am a bit of a purist for strict 2-channel CD audio. I use the 2-channel balanced inputs on the D2 from my Meridian G08 and I leave the D2 set to Analog Direct, in other words, no processing in digital whatsoever on the D2 for this input. The D2 simply takes what the Meridian has given it and passes it to the amp, which passes to my B&W 703's.


My reasoning? I have listened to the G08 through the D2 with digital outs, letting the D2 do its own upsampling and output, and it is very listenable, nothing wrong with it. However, the Meridian's own upsampling and balanced analog outs sound just slightly better to me. There is a little more "punch and placement" I would call it - the vocals and everything are just placed a little more spot-on in the soundstage. For jazz and orchestral works, the difference is noticeable. I will admit that for rock and most pop discs, it is nearly impossible to tell any difference.


Hope this helps,

Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have broached this before in this thread, but I would like to get opinions one more time. What audio mode do you folks listen to when listening to standard CD's/media player with your D2's? I like to just listen to my front stage, the LCR's, and forget the sides and rears. I am running a paradigm C5 and 2 S8's. Right now, I have the Anthem music configured to no sides or surrounds and have for now settled on Dolby Pro Logic IIx music. Any thoughts, suggestions, or words of wisdom?



Oh, by the way, I do use an AppleTV to stream my MP3 collection as well for some more casual listening, entertaining for parties, etc. I have the AppleTV input via Optical digital, and I let the D2 upsample and post-process with Anthem's own "Anthem Logic - Music" setting. I have to say, this is a VERY musical output, and for what it's worth, I think you should check it out before using any Dolby ProLogic Music setting. I have never liked Dobly processing for 2-channel music, and Anthem really nailed a good one with this Anthem Logic Music processing. Check it out, let me know what ya think.


My 3 and a half cents,

Brian


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Anthem owners... Looking for some advice here. My basic question is; What unit to get, the 40, 50 or D2? If you already have a mid to top-notch 1080p PJ like the JVC hd/rs1, (which I don't , yet, but will in the future) which already produces an outstanding picture, do you need the video processing ability of the D2, or even the avm 50? Couldn't you just use the avm 40 for it's hdmi switching ability and great audio handling and rely on the PJ for picture quality? Or am I overlooking something important that the avm 50 or D2 have that the 40 doesn't? I'm just looking to try to save some $$$ to put toward the inevitable 1080p purchase for when my Dwin TV3e with 2600 bulb hrs wears out. However, I also don't want to be kicking myself 3 or 6 months down the road for not getting the D2 'cuz it has something I really need. My setup is a dedicated 7.2 HT which is 80/20 for movies/music. I appreciate any and all info from the experts in this forum.



No advice hear folks? I really want to become a member of "the club". Just looking for some help as to which unit to get. Thanks


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh, by the way, I do use an AppleTV to stream my MP3 collection as well for some more casual listening, entertaining for parties, etc. I have the AppleTV input via Optical digital, and I let the D2 upsample and post-process with Anthem's own "Anthem Logic - Music" setting. I have to say, this is a VERY musical output, and for what it's worth, I think you should check it out before using any Dolby ProLogic Music setting. I have never liked Dobly processing for 2-channel music, and Anthem really nailed a good one with this Anthem Logic Music processing. Check it out, let me know what ya think.
> 
> 
> My 3 and a half cents,
> 
> Brian



I like the Anthem Logic Music processing as well...but it doesn't let me take advantage of that beautiful center channel - I could almost just listen to it alone! That is why I like to incorporate it with the my LR. Anthem Logic does not utilize the center...but I appreciate all of your input Brian. Thanks!


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I like the Anthem Logic Music processing as well...but it doesn't let me take advantage of that beautiful center channel - I could almost just listen to it alone! That is why I like to incorporate it with the my LR. Anthem Logic does not utilize the center...but I appreciate all of your input Brian. Thanks!



Indeed, you're right on there. But I find this preference VERY interesting to say the least. You have some AMAZING speakers with the Signature Paradigm's. I'm surprised that the incredibly musical left and right front S8's are not providing enough for your full enjoyment of 2-channel audio. I realize that the C5 is itself a wonderful center channel, but I'm surprised a bit that you want to hear from it for 2-channel music. I guess this just goes to show, we all have our own preferences. The beauty of the D2 is that it supports the flexibility we all need to meet our specific tastes. With this in mind, couldn't you just use the Analog DSP setting and then dial up the Center channel level to whatever your preference is, while muting the rears, or setting the CD source's levels for the rears down to the lowest level possible? This way, anytime you choose this input, the sound is set to your liking right off the bat.


Don't have the time right now to play with it myself, but let me know if you think that would work.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Anthem owners... Looking for some advice here. My basic question is; What unit to get, the 40, 50 or D2? If you already have a mid to top-notch 1080p PJ like the JVC hd/rs1, (which I don't , yet, but will in the future) which already produces an outstanding picture, do you need the video processing ability of the D2, or even the avm 50? Couldn't you just use the avm 40 for it's hdmi switching ability and great audio handling and rely on the PJ for picture quality? Or am I overlooking something important that the avm 50 or D2 have that the 40 doesn't? I'm just looking to try to save some $$$ to put toward the inevitable 1080p purchase for when my Dwin TV3e with 2600 bulb hrs wears out. However, I also don't want to be kicking myself 3 or 6 months down the road for not getting the D2 'cuz it has something I really need. My setup is a dedicated 7.2 HT which is 80/20 for movies/music. I appreciate any and all info from the experts in this forum.



What can I say? Get the D2. The flexibility offered by the D2 goes well beyond what the RS1 will do for you. The audio is splendid.


Sorry, but I think if you cut corners now you will regret it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have broached this before in this thread, but I would like to get opinions one more time. What audio mode do you folks listen to when listening to standard CD's/media player with your D2's? I like to just listen to my front stage, the LCR's, and forget the sides and rears. I am running a paradigm C5 and 2 S8's. Right now, I have the Anthem music configured to no sides or surrounds and have for now settled on Dolby Pro Logic IIx music. Any thoughts, suggestions, or words of wisdom?



For 2 channel music I us Anthem-Logic Music if I expect to be sitting still in my primary listening position. I use Stereo if I think I'll be moving around the room. I use Stereo-ALL if the room is full of people.


Anthem-Logic Music is a "non-aggressive" surround mode (not much goes to the surrounds) that also disables the center channel to maintain the purity of the front sound stage. I find the degree of remaining surround steering works very well for me.


If I'm moving around the room I use straight Stereo to keep from being distracted if I happen to be standing near a surround speaker.


If there are lots of people in the room I use Stereo- All speakers, but nobody is listening critically to that anyway so it's not like it matters all that much.


------------------------------------------------------


I include my Velodyne DD series subwoofer in the speaker configuration for all music listening. I think that people who feel they need to disable the subwoofer for music listening simply haven't discovered the joys of a well calibrated bass system yet.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have broached this before in this thread, but I would like to get opinions one more time. What audio mode do you folks listen to when listening to standard CD's/media player with your D2's? I like to just listen to my front stage, the LCR's, and forget the sides and rears. I am running a paradigm C5 and 2 S8's. Right now, I have the Anthem music configured to no sides or surrounds and have for now settled on Dolby Pro Logic IIx music. Any thoughts, suggestions, or words of wisdom?



With CD's, I listen in 2 channel stereo mode. This is via HDMI connection from my Pioneer Elite 59avi. And it sounds _incredible_!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by jclem
> 
> Hey Anthem owners... Looking for some advice here. My basic question is; What unit to get, the 40, 50 or D2? If you already have a mid to top-notch 1080p PJ like the JVC hd/rs1, (which I don't , yet, but will in the future) which already produces an outstanding picture, do you need the video processing ability of the D2, or even the avm 50? Couldn't you just use the avm 40 for it's hdmi switching ability and great audio handling and rely on the PJ for picture quality? Or am I overlooking something important that the avm 50 or D2 have that the 40 doesn't? I'm just looking to try to save some $$$ to put toward the inevitable 1080p purchase for when my Dwin TV3e with 2600 bulb hrs wears out. However, I also don't want to be kicking myself 3 or 6 months down the road for not getting the D2 'cuz it has something I really need. My setup is a dedicated 7.2 HT which is 80/20 for movies/music. I appreciate any and all info from the experts in this forum.



I have the JVC RS1 (as do several other Anthem owners in this thread). A few things to keep in mind: although the RS1 uses the Gennum chip, it does NOT take full advantage of it by any means. The D2 or AVM50 will give you much more flexibility. Also, the RS1 doesn't even get some very simple things done correctly. For example, if you feed 480i to the RS1 to let it's Gennum do the deinterlacing and scaling, it appears to be adding some edge enhancement and bad jaggies. The implementation of the Gennum chip with the D2 and AVM50 does not have this issue. Not sure what the RS1 is doing wrong in this regard.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No advice hear folks? I really want to become a member of "the club". Just looking for some help as to which unit to get. Thanks



Or at least the AVM-50 if you can't swing the D2.


----------



## ankita

I have a 5 channel amp and an anthem avm 50 as my preamp. currently I have a 5.1 setup through balanced interconnects but I have a couple of extra B & W 303 speakers and a receiver ( yamaha RX 795 ) which I would like to integrate into a 7.1 setup. could somebody tell me if I can use my receiver as an amp for my rear B & W speakers ( It has to be unbalanced as my receiver doesnt have balanced inputs ) and if so please tell me the connections and most important will I see a step up in my audio experience ( I forgot to mention I have a 20 X 15 room- front projection JVC RS1 with revel performas F32, C32 , revel B 15 subwoofer Surr- B & W 602's )

thanks

ankita


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the JVC RS1 (as do several other Anthem owners in this thread). A few things to keep in mind: although the RS1 uses the Gennum chip, it does NOT take full advantage of it by any means. The D2 or AVM50 will give you much more flexibility. Also, the RS1 doesn't even get some very simple things done correctly. For example, if you feed 480i to the RS1 to let it's Gennum do the deinterlacing and scaling, it appears to be adding some edge enhancement and bad jaggies. The implementation of the Gennum chip with the D2 and AVM50 does not have this issue. Not sure what the RS1 is doing wrong in this regard.




Thanks, that's good to know about the JVC. So, now I'm up $1k from the 40 to the 50, what's the D2 have to warrant an additional $2k jump? (I've looked over the Anthem comparison chart and can see the differences, but an explanation "in English" would help out this rookie.) All words of wisdom are welcome.

Hey rudolpht, I see you are also from MA, so from whom did you get your Anthem equipment,---Wurlitzer??


----------



## Vikingmd

Is anyone having problem with picture and sound drop out with their PS3? I have firmware 1.11g on my AVM-50 and 1.70 on my PS3 and have the PS3 connected with a monoprice HDMI cable. It is frustrating as hell.


I have the following hooked up to my TV.


PS3 HDMI -> HDMI

HDXA-1 HDMI -> HDMI

WII Component -> Component

Hughes 25-250 HDMI -> HDMI

AVM-50 HDMI -> HDMI


Monitor is a Sharp 52 LCD and all of the cables are monoprice.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a 5 channel amp and an anthem avm 50 as my preamp. currently I have a 5.1 setup through balanced interconnects but I have a couple of extra B & W 303 speakers and a receiver ( yamaha RX 795 ) which I would like to integrate into a 7.1 setup. could somebody tell me if I can use my receiver as an amp for my rear B & W speakers ( It has to be unbalanced as my receiver doesnt have balanced inputs ) and if so please tell me the connections and most important will I see a step up in my audio experience ( I forgot to mention I have a 20 X 15 room- front projection JVC RS1 with revel performas F32, C32 , revel B 15 subwoofer Surr- B & W 602's )
> 
> thanks
> 
> ankita



Many receivers do have pre-amp inputs for just such purpose, but I don't know enough about your particular Yamaha to know if it does.


There is no problem using the normal, RCA outputs of the AVM50 to run the 2 rear channels to such a receiver -- even though your connections to the main amp are via balanced connections. Use decent quality, shielded RCA interconnect cables. Due to differening standards for the two forms of interconnect, the RCA outputs put out a different volume level than the balanced outputs, but you can adjust for that on those two channels either in the speaker level settings controls in the AVM50 or in your receiver.


If your room allows for a decent placement of both side surround and rear surround speakers then you likely WILL enjoy the extra ambience provided with the addition of rear surrounds. Typical problems would be if your main seating location is such that the rear surrounds would have to be right behind you or above you, or if the rear surrounds become too much of an obstacle when moving around the room.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vikingmd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is anyone having problem with picture and sound drop out with their PS3? I have firmware 1.11g on my AVM-50 and 1.70 on my PS3 and have the PS3 connected with a monoprice HDMI cable. It is frustrating as hell.
> 
> 
> I have the following hooked up to my TV.
> 
> 
> PS3 HDMI -> HDMI
> 
> HDXA-1 HDMI -> HDMI
> 
> WII Component -> Component
> 
> Hughes 25-250 HDMI -> HDMI
> 
> AVM-50 HDMI -> HDMI
> 
> 
> Monitor is a Sharp 52 LCD and all of the cables are monoprice.



Talk to Anthem tech support. They HAVE been fighting a problem with the PS3 which I believe is specific to that software. For some reason that combo is causing the video processor in the Anthem to overheat apparently. [The PS3 is an HDMI V1.3 device and likely drives the Anthem in an unusual way.]


If I've remembered all this correctly, they'll likely move you to a different software version.


While waiting for that, an external fan to help cool the Anthem will help. But the best solution is to get software that doesn't have this problem.

--Bob


----------



## JeffDL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vikingmd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is anyone having problem with picture and sound drop out with their PS3? I have firmware 1.11g on my AVM-50 and 1.70 on my PS3 and have the PS3 connected with a monoprice HDMI cable. It is frustrating as hell.
> 
> 
> I have the following hooked up to my TV.
> 
> 
> PS3 HDMI -> HDMI
> 
> HDXA-1 HDMI -> HDMI
> 
> WII Component -> Component
> 
> Hughes 25-250 HDMI -> HDMI
> 
> AVM-50 HDMI -> HDMI
> 
> 
> Monitor is a Sharp 52 LCD and all of the cables are monoprice.



I was seeing some issues with g and the PS3 the D2 didn't like the 1080p one bit. Went back to e and all is working as it should.


----------



## Bose_Killer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was seeing some issues with g and the PS3 the D2 didn't like the 1080p one bit. Went back to e and all is working as it should.




I have a stupid question...how do I now which software version I have on my D2, mine only says V1.11....am I looking in the wrong place?


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bose_Killer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a stupid question...how do I now which software version I have on my D2, mine only says V1.11....am I looking in the wrong place?



You are looking in the correct place if you had version 1.11e installed the "e" would be included.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are looking in the correct place if you had version 1.11e installed the "e" would be included.



Unless you have a D1-HD in which case they ran out of space and the only place you can get the actual revision is from a serial connection







. At least until we get back to single digit revisions


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, that's good to know about the JVC. So, now I'm up $1k from the 40 to the 50, what's the D2 have to warrant an additional $2k jump? (I've looked over the Anthem comparison chart and can see the differences, but an explanation "in English" would help out this rookie.) All words of wisdom are welcome.
> 
> Hey rudolpht, I see you are also from MA, so from whom did you get your Anthem equipment,---Wurlitzer??



You guessed it. Good. Communicative.


On worth the extra 40% AVM-50->D2, I would say no (but I admit I recently contemplated trading up), but I'm more into the video than the last tweak on the audio. The AVM is damn fine audio.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, that's good to know about the JVC. So, now I'm up $1k from the 40 to the 50, what's the D2 have to warrant an additional $2k jump? (I've looked over the Anthem comparison chart and can see the differences, but an explanation "in English" would help out this rookie.) All words of wisdom are welcome.



Remember the video processing in the D2 and AVM50 is identical, so the only differences will be sound quality and the potential upgrade for the D2 for Room EQ (which will utilize the D2's second processor). The D2 has 24 bit/ 192 khz upsampling that the AVM50 does not have.


Whether or not you could hear or appreciate the potential SQ improvement of the D2 depends on many factors, including your current equipment, room acoustics, and how good your ears are! I would think someone who places a lot of emphasis on music would be more inclined to go with the D2.


It should be noted: I have NOT done a comparison of the D2 and AVM50. All I *can* tell you is that the D2 sounds _fantastic_!


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I like the Anthem Logic Music processing as well...but it doesn't let me take advantage of that beautiful center channel...



Try the AnthemLogic Cinema mode. Don't let the "Cinema" in the name dissuade you: it's the same processing as the Music mode, except that correlated (in-phase) mono information is sent to the centre speaker. That's where those sounds would have phantom imaged anyway.


Unlike PLII, the centre information is not cancelled from the L/R speakers, so you'll still have to sit in the sweet spot. However, you will get to take advantage of your centre speaker and have greater imaging stability in the front soundstage.


Sanjay


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Try the AnthemLogic Cinema mode. Don't let the "Cinema" in the name dissuade you: it's the same processing as the Music mode, except that correlated (in-phase) mono information is sent to the centre speaker. That's where those sounds would have phantom imaged anyway.
> 
> 
> Unlike PLII, the centre information is not cancelled from the L/R speakers, so you'll still have to sit in the sweet spot. However, you will get to take advantage of your centre speaker and have greater imaging stability in the front soundstage.
> 
> 
> Sanjay



Sanjay,


Greater imaging stability in the front soundstage? You sure? Really? Than what exactly? Than 2-channel stereo with a top-notch set of speakers like the S8's??? Hardly my friend, I would take serious issue with that statement. Any speaker worth half it's salt will image beautifully on well-recorded 2 channel audio in Stereo mode or Analog Direct, and actually allow for space for 'n' instruments on a soundstage, something that no use of a Center channel speaker will allow. I'm sorry, I know we focus on mainly video-related sound setups in this forum, but as a 2-channel afficianado from way back, I have to disagree with you on your assertion. The 'mono' imaging projecting from the center that you speak of only ruins what my speakers do by themselves, which is place each instrument in a 5-piece jazz ensemble for instance in their own unique location between the speakers on a soundstage. The center simply makes them sound like they all come from pretty much the center, something physically impossible, unless my instrumentalists are stacked on top of each other (which would probably drive them all nuts so they wouldn't wanna play any music at all....and me along with them, I might add 


It ain't recorded that way, and until it's recorded that way, I don't wanna play it back that way...period. But of course, to each his own, go screw with your sound, go process your 2-channel Stereo music sources...far be it for me to stop anyone.


-Brian


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey rudolpht, I see you are also from MA,



Well if you can rant like Brian





















also from MA and a great provider on info, you should probably go for the D2. The 24/96 processing is still no slouch in 2 (as god meant stereo







), 5, or 7.1 applications in the 40 or 50, though. (I keep telling myself for $2K I will no longer be a second class citizen, but 2nd class in Anthem is 1st class in most of the Rest of the universe).


----------



## Bose_Killer

I've been having problems with my D2 since I first connected it into my system. I was originally having issues with the D2 not recognizing the 1080i output of my XBOX 360 but it would recognize input when set to 480P or 720P. I was told, by a very helpful member of this forum, that I needed to contact tech support to receive the V1.11e software. So I did that....via email as well as a couple of voice mails left on Nicks phone to which I received no response, though I can empathize with what it must be like in tech support . I however decided I would flash my D2 with the V1.11 software that was available on the Anthem website mainly because I saw other posts where people talked about rolling their D2's back to older software version's, which I have done with tons of other firmware driven electionics . This turned out to be a huge mistake....somehow as a result of flashing the D2. which uploaded without a hitch, I now get no video out of either the component or HDMI output's not even the OSD all I get now is a bunch of white lines that intermitently flash on the screen. Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated. If anyone could email a different vesion of the D2 firmware that I could try and upload I would greatly appreciate it.


Greg


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well if you can rant like Brian
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also from MA and a great provider on info, you should probably go for the D2. The 24/96 processing is still no slouch in 2 (as god meant stereo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), 5, or 7.1 applications in the 40 or 50, though. (I keep telling myself for $2K I will no longer be a second class citizen, but 2nd class in Anthem is 1st class in most of the Rest of the universe).



HA!!!! Too funny...you got me laughing for sure....only another Mass-Hole could get me chuckling at myself like that!


By the way, I second my fellow kinder, gentler citizen of the Commonwealth Sir Rudolph, not to mention the always wise Bob Pariseau - the D2, if you can swing it, is the way to go...I never make decisions on futures, but I feel like the RoomEQ stuff coming from Anthem for the D2 is going to be really cool, allowing some of us to reconsider subwoofer placement, bass mgmt, levels, etc for 5.1/7.1 channel usage. I trust Anthem folk who have said that they are taking their time because they want to get this right, really right, better than others out there, so that we have a really useful RoomEQ right when it is available. They are well on their way to making this a reality for D2 owners.


Peace and hair grease,

Brian


----------



## Randall Morton

The room equalizer firmware is already in place starting with the 1.12k firmware. We just can't access it yet.


----------



## jclem

Hey Gents,(M*******s and others), I appreciate the input. I have learned over the years that you rarely regret buying the top-ot-the-line anything, so I usually try to go that route. If the D2 was $1k more, I'd definitely do it, but $2k----I really have to think about it. Plus I agree, the 50 is certainly no slouch. Maybe I'll see how generous Gary at Wurlitzer is feeling??? I'm sure I'll be back here with more questions once I make my decision, but I appreciate the feedback. Thanks.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The room equalizer firmware is already in place starting with the 1.12k firmware. We just can't access it yet.


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greater imaging stability in the front soundstage?



Of course. The more hard sources you have, the less you rely on phantom imaging. The less you rely on phantom imaging, the more stable your soundstage. Fairly straightforward concept.


We're comparing imagined (phantom) localization created in the brain vs an object physically pressurizing the air at that location. No contest. The latter will more closely mimic things like a live trumpet solo or vocalist standing in the middle of the soundstage.


> Quote:
> _Than 2-channel stereo with a top-notch set of speakers like the S8's???_



Sure. Three S8s laid out in an arc in front of you can create a wavefront that will be closer to the original live event than two S8s could.


> Quote:
> _go screw with your sound, go process your 2-channel Stereo music sources..._



Wow, that'll teach me to recommend one of the AnthemLogic modes.


Sanjay


----------



## jclem




jclem said:


> Hey Gents,(M*******s and others),
> 
> 
> Guess I need to learn how to get around the censors like Brian does when referring to residents of Massachusetts......... :


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Of course. The more hard sources you have, the less you rely on phantom imaging. The less you rely on phantom imaging, the more stable your soundstage. Fairly straightforward concept.
> 
> 
> We're comparing imagined (phantom) localization created in the brain vs an object physically pressurizing the air at that location. No contest. The latter will more closely mimic things like a live trumpet solo or vocalist standing in the middle of the soundstage. Sure. Three S8s laid out in an arc in front of you can create a wavefront that will be closer to the original live event than two S8s could. Wow, that'll teach me to recommend one of the AnthemLogic modes.
> 
> 
> Sanjay




Thanks to both of you for thoughts, suggestion. I tried the Anthem-Logic cinema mode and it sounded much better to me than PLII. I am either sitting in the sweet spot, or playing pool directly behind my HT. Either way, using the surrounds I find detracts from the great music I have coming from my front stage. Thanks again.


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> The room equalizer firmware is already in place starting with the 1.12k firmware. We just can't access it yet.



Wow. Great news. The obvious next question.....what microphone can to be used with it?? Has Anthem specified one yet? Anyone know who's EQ (Audyssey, etc)?


Last....as my upgraded D1-HD arrived two weeks ago, and I have finally had time to set it up, can I be officially annointed to the club yet?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow. Great news. The obvious next question.....what microphone can to be used with it?? Has Anthem specified one yet? Anyone know who's EQ (Audyssey, etc)?
> 
> 
> Last....as my upgraded D1-HD arrived two weeks ago, and I have finally had time to set it up, can I be officially annointed to the club yet?



If it is UP and RUNNING - you can be anointed


----------



## barhoram

For those of you using r2-232 to control your D2 or D1-HD, did you know that you can send custom text to the OSD to be displayed?? This is pretty cool.


You can specify 2 lines of Text to pop up on the OSD by sending it in a string via RS-232. The command to display text is: P1z1yourtext. Therefore, I send a confirmation that the bass shakers have been turned on by sending this string:

P1z1Bass Shakers: On


It pops up just on the OSD just like the volume does. Too Cool. I'm going to implement a pop-up for an upstairs motion detector for my daugher's room who has a tendency to wake up late at night (when we are watching movies) and come and find us. I'm also going to tie in a few of the secutity system events, etc. Right now, if you push a button on the remote the status (armed, unarmed) pops up, as well as directions (what buttons to push) to arm or disarm the sytem.


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> If it is UP and RUNNING - you can be anointed



Yep! Up and Running. No issues to report with stock 1.11 firmware. Sources are HD-Tivo, Pioneer 59-AVI, Toshiba XA1 and a HTPC all via HDMI all controlled via rs-232 and touchscreens (see above)! Wow. Went from no to 4 HDMI's overnight. how did I fill up them up so fast?? The only thing left is to hook the XBox 360 up via component. Guess I don't have to worry about the Elite since I'm full.







Anyone running an XBox 360 Elite through their D2 yet?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep! Up and Running. No issues to report with stock 1.11 firmware. Sources are HD-Tivo, Pioneer 59-AVI, Toshiba XA1 and a HTPC all via HDMI all controlled via rs-232 and touchscreens (see above)! Wow. Went from no to 4 HDMI's overnight. how did I fill up them up so fast?? The only thing left is to hook the XBox 360 up via component. Guess I don't have to worry about the Elite since I'm full.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone running an XBox 360 Elite through their D2 yet?



I filled up my HDMI ports initially ALSO.


Then I took my TWO HDMI Connected DVRs and

switched them over to Component. There is no

NEED to have them connected via HDMI and now

I have TWO Spare HDMI ports. The ONLY REAL

Reason you need HDMI is for 1080p sources and

PCM Audio over HDMI.


Therefore - I have only my Blu-Ray and HD DVD

hooked up via HDMI now.


There is actually a side benefit to switching the DVRs

to Component - Channel Surfing is much faster because

there is NO HDMI handshake every time you switch

Channels.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The room equalizer firmware is already in place starting with the 1.12k firmware. We just can't access it yet.



Wow, stop reading for a few days and we pass V1.12 and are up into the 'k' revision already. There's a version 1.12k?


larry


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep! Up and Running. No issues to report with stock 1.11 firmware. Sources are HD-Tivo, Pioneer 59-AVI, Toshiba XA1 and a HTPC all via HDMI all controlled via rs-232 and touchscreens (see above)! Wow. Went from no to 4 HDMI's overnight. how did I fill up them up so fast?? The only thing left is to hook the XBox 360 up via component. Guess I don't have to worry about the Elite since I'm full.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone running an XBox 360 Elite through their D2 yet?




Very cool. Interested to hear how your HD-Tivo works out at stock 1.11 on HDMI. Are you going native res for all programming to let the Anthem deinterlace & scale?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know who's EQ (Audyssey, etc)?



It's Anthem's home-made solution. Some of the programmers working on the D2/AVM50 at Anthem are the same that were working on the Athena Project at the NRC's facilities, so I'm sure it will be unique and... really something...


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The room equalizer firmware is already in place starting with the 1.12k firmware. We just can't access it yet.



I didn't knew if I could post that info, but since you did...










Until the stupid HDMI-HDCP incompatibilities are not fully solved, the room-eq will be push back a little bit... Anthem are fighting for us to solve the HDMI incompatibilities caused by the poor implementations of other manufacturers, paticularly satellite and cable STB, so they don't want to fight on 2 fronts at the same time...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I didn't knew if I could post that info, but since you did...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until the stupid HDMI-HDCP incompatibilities are not fully solved, the room-eq will be push back a little bit... Anthem are fighting for us to solve the HDMI incompatibilities caused by the poor implementations of other manufacturers, paticularly satellite and cable STB, so they don't want to fight on 2 fronts at the same time...



Makes PERFECT sense to me - I'm not sitting around

waiting for Room EQ







When it comes it comes.


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> Very cool. Interested to hear how your HD-Tivo works out at stock 1.11 on HDMI. Are you going native res for all programming to let the Anthem deinterlace & scale?



So Far, So Good. Unfortunately I don't belive the HD-Tivo has native res pass through...so the output is constant. Therefore, don't seem to have any problems over hdmi when I switch channels. I can change from HD to 480i output on the Tivo by pressing the up arrow....so I switch to 480i when watching SD content and let the D2 do the deinterlacing and scaling. The picture does seem to be better. Is there an (easy) way to have the D2 stretch a 4:3 image?


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Hey Randall, do you know what the latest info is on fixing the 1080p/24 stuttering with the Pioneer?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I didn't knew if I could post that info, but since you did...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until the stupid HDMI-HDCP incompatibilities are not fully solved, the room-eq will be push back a little bit... Anthem are fighting for us to solve the HDMI incompatibilities caused by the poor implementations of other manufacturers, paticularly satellite and cable STB, so they don't want to fight on 2 fronts at the same time...




Good News! We are slowly progressing toward the right direction.


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So Far, So Good. Unfortunately I don't belive the HD-Tivo has native res pass through...so the output is constant. Therefore, don't seem to have any problems over hdmi when I switch channels. I can change from HD to 480i output on the Tivo by pressing the up arrow....so I switch to 480i when watching SD content and let the D2 do the deinterlacing and scaling. The picture does seem to be better. Is there an (easy) way to have the D2 stretch a 4:3 image?



The HD Tive has native rate pass thru, it's the main reason I lust after it (but can't justify the expense ,yet). If Verizon's new software upgrade sucks I may switch then.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The HD Tive has native rate pass thru, it's the main reason I lust after it (but can't justify the expense ,yet). If Verizon's new software upgrade sucks I may switch then.



Barhoram must have the HR10-250 HD Tivo (for satellite and/or OTA), not the Tivo Series 3 HD Tivo, which most certainly does have Native Pass-through mode for passing the exact same rez as the initial signal that comes in for a given channel. That alone is one of the best things about moving to the Series 3 from the HR10-250 - of course, it means switching from satellite to cable, a change that has worked out very well for me, but YMMV (and I still keep satellite service thru the HR10-250 just for NFL Sunday ticket).


Just wanted to clarify, there are 2 HD Tivo devices that exist in the marketplace, let's be clear which we are talking about. Barhoram, can you clarify which HD Tivo you have?


Thanks,

Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The HD Tive has native rate pass thru, it's the main reason I lust after it (but can't justify the expense ,yet). If Verizon's new software upgrade sucks I may switch then.



If it helps Bill, there is a new Father's Day 200 dollar rebate available from Tivo on it I guess, so it's now coming down in price more. Just FYI. And yeah, I'm with ya on the Native pass thru, it kicks butt. Lets the D2 do the heavy lifting as it should.


Brian


----------



## barhoram

Yep. The HR10-250. If I wasn't such a Sunday Ticket fan, I would probably investigate options other than D*. However, my theater has been the hangout pretty much every Sunday during football season.



I do have a question on the component ouputs on the D2. I would like to use the main or zone 2 component outs of the D2 to drive a LCD display in my office. Configured either as a copy of the Main Zone or Zone 2 would be fine. Is the D2 able to take HDMI inputs and send them out via component as a copy of the main or to zone 2?? If so, how do I go about doing this? The only thing that I can get to display on the component output is the OSD. Currently the Main output is set to HDMI with HDTV and RBG ( using hdmi to dvi at my projector). Can this be done?


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Randall, do you know what the latest info is on fixing the 1080p/24 stuttering with the Pioneer?



As far as I can tell it is fixed in the 1.12k but for some reason this version has trouble with the XA2. Since I'm not watching any HDDVD lately and the BDP HD1 works really good with SD outputting 480i to the D2, I've been running the 1.12k. The XA2 is the only thing that gives me a problem and the only problem I have with it is audio. If I had an HDDVD I wanted to watch I could watch and get the sound through SPDIF. Now it seems that 24P for the Toshiba has been moved back to October.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Thanks Randall. I wonder if we will ever get 1080p/24 working with a 1080i source, which would solve your issue with Toshiba not releasing the FW update for 1080p/24.


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If it helps Bill, there is a new Father's Day 200 dollar rebate available from Tivo on it I guess, so it's now coming down in price more. Just FYI. And yeah, I'm with ya on the Native pass thru, it kicks butt. Lets the D2 do the heavy lifting as it should.
> 
> 
> Brian




Now thats getting very tempting.


In talking to Frank at Anthem (my D2 is going back for a new power supply for the video- it has a high pitched whine coming out of it that changes pitch as the scene changes) he said the next software should be out very soon and when pushed with-in a month. The room eq should be available before the end of summer.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Randall. I wonder if we will ever get 1080p/24 working with a 1080i source, which would solve your issue with Toshiba not releasing the FW update for 1080p/24.



I think they are working on it but I doubt it is high priority.

You would think if the VP50 could do it everyone else could also. Seems like there are too many unresolved HDMI issues at this point and then the room equalization. I'm not too worried about the Toshiba as it seems like almost everything coming out that I want to see is on Blu Ray.


----------



## ankita

I have a squeezebox ( ipod like music player ) connected to anthem avm 50. To get the best quality sound should I go with analog or digital connection. Do I need to set up analog bypass in my anthem avm and if so how do I do it

thanks


----------



## Bose_Killer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a squeezebox ( ipod like music player ) connected to anthem avm 50. To get the best quality sound should I go with analog or digital connection. Do I need to set up analog bypass in my anthem avm and if so how do I do it
> 
> thanks



I would use a digital input becuase although the DAC in the squeezebox is pretty good, considering the price, the D2's DAC is better.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So Far, So Good. Unfortunately I don't belive the HD-Tivo has native res pass through...so the output is constant. Therefore, don't seem to have any problems over hdmi when I switch channels. I can change from HD to 480i output on the Tivo by pressing the up arrow....so I switch to 480i when watching SD content and let the D2 do the deinterlacing and scaling. The picture does seem to be better. Is there an (easy) way to have the D2 stretch a 4:3 image?



1) It does have native passthrough. Go to settings. Note menus are 720p. Some channels are 720p or 1080i based on cable system. If you are not having stock 1.11 issues it's likely because you are one set resolution and not using the Anthem to do it's stuff.


2) There are aspect ratio changes. Hold down the 7 on the Anthem and do it there, or suffer some degredation of already bad SD quality and let the Tivo do the Height/Width stuff.


You need to explore the Settings menus OR head over to the board Tivo forums. Good Series 3 info. If you have the DirecTivo you are SOL.


EDIT: Just read... You are SOL :{


----------



## barhoram

Still struggling with component out to a secondary display. Can the D2 take an HDMI input and output via component to Zone 2 or as the Main?? I can see the OSD and my XBox360 (hooked via component to the D2) but the screen goes blank when I switch to any of the sources that use HDMI in. Have tried both sets of componenet ouptuts....anyone???


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a squeezebox ( ipod like music player ) connected to anthem avm 50. To get the best quality sound should I go with analog or digital connection. Do I need to set up analog bypass in my anthem avm and if so how do I do it
> 
> thanks



Definitely digital. I find much better sound with it on my Squeezebox / Slimp3s. No comparison. The DAC is pretty good on the Squeezebox (much better than the Slimp3s), but it is far better still on the D2/AVM50.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Still struggling with component out to a secondary display. Can the D2 take an HDMI input and output via component to Zone 2 or as the Main?? I can see the OSD and my XBox360 (hooked via component to the D2) but the screen goes blank when I switch to any of the sources that use HDMI in. Have tried both sets of componenet ouptuts....anyone???



No. This is because of HDCP(copy protection).


----------



## barhoram

I thought that might be the case. Does the D2 look for copy protection and disable, or just not allow HDMI in to component out of any sort?


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I watched *Apocalypto* on Blu-ray last night. Wow, what a movie! Very well done. But the reason I am posting about it here is because of the sound quality. It was amazing! This disc has a LPCM track, and I was extremely impressed. It's one of the best mixes I have heard yet from any of the new HD formats. The subtleties and ambiance was very impressive. Made me feel like I was in the middle of the movie. Great demo material for the D2!










Marc, if you are reading, I would be interested in hearing your opinion on this (if you have seen it yet).


----------



## barhoram

My next question for the day.....channel level calibration. I used my Dolby check disk to set up the channel levels for SD-DVD for my Pioneer 59avi (HDMI). I saved these in the menu, and all seemed good. I then used the same disk to verify channel levels for my Toshiba XA1, and noticed that both of my side surrounds were about 3 db low. I boosted these for the HD-DVD input via the "on the fly" setting for that input, but it seems to loose the setting every time I change sources....as they are back to 0. Is there a way to set specific levels per each input? Or am I going to have to make the adjustments outside the D2 in each individual component?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I watched *Apocalypto* on Blu-ray last night. Wow, what a movie! Very well done. But the reason I am posting about it here is because of the sound quality. It was amazing! This disc has a LPCM track, and I was extremely impressed. It's one of the best mixes I have heard yet from any of the new HD formats. The subtleties and ambiance was very impressive. Made me feel like I was in the middle of the movie. Great demo material for the D2!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc, if you are reading, I would be interested in hearing your opinion on this (if you have seen it yet).



Do you know what resolution was used for the audio?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My next question for the day.....channel level calibration. I used my Dolby check disk to set up the channel levels for SD-DVD for my Pioneer 59avi (HDMI). I saved these in the menu, and all seemed good. I then used the same disk to verify channel levels for my Toshiba XA1, and noticed that both of my side surrounds were about 3 db low. I boosted these for the HD-DVD input via the "on the fly" setting for that input, but it seems to loose the setting every time I change sources....as they are back to 0. Is there a way to set specific levels per each input? Or am I going to have to make the adjustments outside the D2 in each individual component?



It's a little unclear - are you talking about setting speaker (not channel) levels in the D2? If so, I'd recommend doing that with the internal test tone in the D2.


If you are using THX, then any "on-the-fly" settings you make are reset.


Do you have settings in the SD and HD DVD players that could affect the surrounds? Like with video, it's best to bypass ALL processing or settings and have them done in the D2.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you know what resolution was used for the audio?



No, I didn't check it. Whatever it was, it sounded great. Very impressive mixing job!


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> It's a little unclear - are you talking about setting speaker (not channel) levels in the D2? If so, I'd recommend doing that with the internal test tone in the D2.
> 
> 
> If you are using THX, then any "on-the-fly" settings you make are reset.
> 
> 
> Do you have settings in the SD and HD DVD players that could affect the surrounds? Like with video, it's best to bypass ALL processing or settings and have them done in the D2.



Correct...I was/am tyring to set the speaker levels. I first did it with the internal test tones, setting the main volume to "0" and adjusting to 75db on my radio shack meter. I also tried it with my Dolby Digital trailer disk using their "channel check" tones with my 59AVI via HDMI as the source. The levels were a little different, but the channel check disk settings seemed to sound better to me. I repeated with my XA1, but as mentioned, the surrounds were too low. It looks like all of the settings in both the XA1 and 59AVI for sound are set to defaults.....I guess there is no way to set it for 2 different sources...or I should go back to the interal test tones setting?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Correct...I was/am tyring to set the speaker levels. I first did it with the internal test tones, setting the main volume to "0" and adjusting to 75db on my radio shack meter. I also tried it with my Dolby Digital trailer disk using their "channel check" tones with my 59AVI via HDMI as the source. The levels were a little different, but the channel check disk settings seemed to sound better to me. I repeated with my XA1, but as mentioned, the surrounds were too low. It looks like all of the settings in both the XA1 and 59AVI for sound are set to defaults.....I guess there is no way to set it for 2 different sources...or I should go back to the interal test tones setting?



I haven't used the Dolby Digital disk, but I get great results setting levels with the internal feature. I recently moved my sub to the back of the room, and moved my L/R mains a little, and recalibrated. Wow! Big jump in quality. All I need to do now is get some bass traps and bit of diffusion and it will be a good summer.


You don't need to worry about setting main volume, since that is bypassed when using the speaker level setup. Make sure to set the Tone level at 75 dB. Also, make sure the RS meter is set for C weighting, slow response. I like to point it at the ceiling - I have it mounted on a mini-tripod.


Make sure neither of your players are doing any bass management - that usually means setting speaker size to Large in the player, and then letting the D2 do bass management by setting speaker size to Small and setting crossover frequencies.


Default settings for some players may include a lot of junk you don't want. I remember with my Oppo 970, I had to change a number of settings (with unclear names) to get it to spit out unprocessed video and multichannel audio via HDMI.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Correct...I was/am tyring to set the speaker levels. I first did it with the internal test tones, setting the main volume to "0" and adjusting to 75db on my radio shack meter. I also tried it with my Dolby Digital trailer disk using their "channel check" tones with my 59AVI via HDMI as the source. The levels were a little different, but the channel check disk settings seemed to sound better to me. I repeated with my XA1, but as mentioned, the surrounds were too low. It looks like all of the settings in both the XA1 and 59AVI for sound are set to defaults.....I guess there is no way to set it for 2 different sources...or I should go back to the interal test tones setting?



You should calibrate using the D2's own internal test tones. They are very accurate. Understand that depending upon your speaker placement and room acoustics, the best level settings may be a "compromise" of the measurements made at your various listening positions.


The test tones you get from a calibration DVD will be altered if you have any of the D2's surround processing or audio content steering turned on.


If you do feel the need to adjust levels for a particular source, the level adjustments available via the buttons on the remote will be remembered indpendently for each source FOR EACH AUDIO INPUT FORMAT. However, due to THX requirements, they are disabled if you turn on THX.


Also, these "temporary" audio level adjustments are not saved as part of Saved Settings. So if you want to discard ALL of them all at once, you can go to the Setup menu, Save User Settings, Reload Factory Defaults, and finally Restore Saved User Settings.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought that might be the case. Does the D2 look for copy protection and disable, or just not allow HDMI in to component out of any sort?



ONLY I have the secret to this MYSTERY










FYI - It is ILLEGAL.


----------



## agrsiv95

So which software are we at? I here in the PS3 thread that a 1080/24 playback is coming with the 1.80 update possibly tomorrow and I am still on 1.11g with no problems a long as the fan is on







.


Jeremy


----------



## tyorder1

So, I'm new to this thread and I'm trying to help out my parents who just purchased and installed this hometheater. Anyway, they bought the AVM50 with the PVA7 along side the Sony "ruby" projector. My question is about the DVD player. The company that sold them the equipment recommended that they stay away from the next gen HD dvds because of the undecided format. They did however say that because of the pre-amps ability to scale almost any source up to 1080p that they should just get a DVD player that outputs 480i over HDMI not component. So they sold us the Sony 9100es dvd player. Now I tried configuring it and the best I could set it too was 1080i because I didn't see an option for 480i, only 480p-720p or 1080i. Should this be a big deal? Should they insist on getting a player to output 480i over hdmi or will the sony 9100es output the picture as well at 1080i over hdmi? Please help.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tyorder1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, I'm new to this thread and I'm trying to help out my parents who just purchased and installed this hometheater. Anyway, they bought the AVM50 with the PVA7 along side the Sony "ruby" projector. My question is about the DVD player. The company that sold them the equipment recommended that they stay away from the next gen HD dvds because of the undecided format. They did however say that because of the pre-amps ability to scale almost any source up to 1080p that they should just get a DVD player that outputs 480i over HDMI not component. So they sold us the Sony 9100es dvd player. Now I tried configuring it and the best I could set it too was 1080i because I didn't see an option for 480i, only 480p-720p or 1080i. Should this be a big deal? Should they insist on getting a player to output 480i over hdmi or will the sony 9100es output the picture as well at 1080i over hdmi? Please help.



The recommendation to use 480i over HDMI was good - since 480i is the native storage format of standard DVD, you're handing the D2/AVM50 an unprocessed signal. You do not want your DVD player to deinterlace, scale, or apply signal processing like noise reduction, sharpening etc. Let the D2/AVM50 do the work.


The 9100 looks like it is a decent unit, but a lot of the value is in it's internal processing (which you don't want) and it's analog audio path (which you don't need). So in your situation you're paying for stuff you don't need - something I personally avoid. I'm not sure if it can do 480i over HDMI - not many DVD players can. The one that gets mentioned here a lot is the Oppo 970 - because it's dirt cheap, no frills, but solid at providing an unprocessed signal over HDMI.


I also have a Ruby, and the PQ is better with 480i vs. having the Oppo upscale to 1080i. The difference isn't huge, but it's not super subtle either.


I think the MSRP on the Oppo is a ridiculous $179 or so. And it will play CD, HDCD, DVD-A, and SACD as well.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think the MSRP on the Oppo is a ridiculous $179 or so. And it will play CD, HDCD, DVD-A, and SACD as well.



It's actually 149 and it's a steal IMO if you have a D2/AVM50.


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I haven't used the Dolby Digital disk, but I get great results setting levels with the internal feature. I recently moved my sub to the back of the room, and moved my L/R mains a little, and recalibrated. Wow! Big jump in quality. All I need to do now is get some bass traps and bit of diffusion and it will be a good summer.
> 
> 
> You don't need to worry about setting main volume, since that is bypassed when using the speaker level setup. Make sure to set the Tone level at 75 dB. Also, make sure the RS meter is set for C weighting, slow response. I like to point it at the ceiling - I have it mounted on a mini-tripod.
> 
> 
> Make sure neither of your players are doing any bass management - that usually means setting speaker size to Large in the player, and then letting the D2 do bass management by setting speaker size to Small and setting crossover frequencies.
> 
> 
> Default settings for some players may include a lot of junk you don't want. I remember with my Oppo 970, I had to change a number of settings (with unclear names) to get it to spit out unprocessed video and multichannel audio via HDMI.



How do other members have their OPPO 970's settings (audio and video) set to the D2? I just bought one and would like it with Forum consensus' settings.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do other members have their OPPO 970's settings (audio and video) set to the D2? I just bought one and would like it with Forum consensus' settings.



General Setup page-

TV display: 16:9 Wide/Auto

SACD priority: Multichannel (only if you use SACD)


Speaker Setup page-

Downmix: 5.1 ch

Front speaker: LARGE

Center speaker: LARGE

Rear Speaker: LARGE

Subwoofer: ON


Audio Setup page-

SPDIF output: RAW

HDMI audio: Auto


Video Setup page-

Color Space: YCbCr 4:4:4

(all other video settings to 0 or OFF)


with the player stopped, press HDMI on the remote until the dislay says 480i. You're good to go.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tyorder1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, I'm new to this thread and I'm trying to help out my parents who just purchased and installed this hometheater. Anyway, they bought the AVM50 with the PVA7 along side the Sony "ruby" projector. My question is about the DVD player. The company that sold them the equipment recommended that they stay away from the next gen HD dvds because of the undecided format. They did however say that because of the pre-amps ability to scale almost any source up to 1080p that they should just get a DVD player that outputs 480i over HDMI not component. So they sold us the Sony 9100es dvd player. Now I tried configuring it and the best I could set it too was 1080i because I didn't see an option for 480i, only 480p-720p or 1080i. Should this be a big deal? Should they insist on getting a player to output 480i over hdmi or will the sony 9100es output the picture as well at 1080i over hdmi? Please help.



The correct DVD choice would have been the Blu-Ray Pioneer

BDP-HD1 or the new replacement unit announced last week

by Pioneer.


Why?


Two Reasons.


1) Although I am FORMAT neutral - I have owned both formats

from DAY-ONE - Blu-Ray will win - not based on better technology

which is Sony's Opinion - but because more CONTENT will be

available on Blu-Ray than HD DVD.


2) The Pioneer Blu-Ray player does output 480i over HDMI

for SD DVDs into my D2 for GREAT SD DVD quality and

on Blu-Ray titles outputs 1080p/24 the only player on the

market to do that. I also feed a RUBY from my D2. JUST

STUNNING PQ and STUNNING Audio from the D2 and

Uncompressed Lossless PCM tracks on Blu-Ray Movies.


My TWO CENT OPINION is your dealer is WRONG!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tyorder1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, I'm new to this thread and I'm trying to help out my parents who just purchased and installed this hometheater. Anyway, they bought the AVM50 with the PVA7 along side the Sony "ruby" projector. My question is about the DVD player. The company that sold them the equipment recommended that they stay away from the next gen HD dvds because of the undecided format. They did however say that because of the pre-amps ability to scale almost any source up to 1080p that they should just get a DVD player that outputs 480i over HDMI not component. So they sold us the Sony 9100es dvd player. Now I tried configuring it and the best I could set it too was 1080i because I didn't see an option for 480i, only 480p-720p or 1080i. Should this be a big deal? Should they insist on getting a player to output 480i over hdmi or will the sony 9100es output the picture as well at 1080i over hdmi? Please help.



I have to agree with Hank to a large degree. Obviously a lot of money was invested in this system. It really doesn't make any sense to me to tell someone not to get one of the new HD players just because there is a format war. Not when this kind of money is being put into the rest of the system, and now you are going to cripple it's abilities by not feeding it the best source material: Blu-ray and HD-DVD! HT enthusiasts typically spend a lot of time and money trying to get the best picture possible, and while the AVM50 receiving a 480i signal will certainly help improve PQ on standard DVD's, it still won't hold a candle to what you will get from the new HD formats.


As Hank said, the Pioneer BD players also output 480i, so you can still use it for your standard dvd's, sending that signal to the AVM50.


If possible, I would try to return the Sony and get a Pioneer Blu-ray player, or, at a minimum an HD-DVD player (although you won't get 480i output).


Good luck.


----------



## AnthemAVM

Question for the group.


I am playing around with HD True Dolby, and am adding THX Ultra 2, what other processing do you like to add to you HD True Dolby, I am trying to get it to put out a 7.1.


Thanks


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question for the group.
> 
> 
> I am playing around with HD True Dolby, and am adding THX Ultra 2, what other processing do you like to add to you HD True Dolby, I am trying to get it to put out a 7.1.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Dolby Digital EX or Pro Logic IIx. I prefer the latter.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The correct DVD choice would have been the Blu-Ray Pioneer
> 
> BDP-HD1 or the new replacement unit announced last week
> 
> by Pioneer.
> 
> 
> Why?
> 
> 
> Two Reasons.
> 
> 
> 1) Although I am FORMAT neutral - I have owned both formats
> 
> from DAY-ONE - Blu-Ray will win - not based on better technology
> 
> which is Sony's Opinion - but because more CONTENT will be
> 
> available on Blu-Ray than HD DVD.
> 
> 
> 2) The Pioneer Blu-Ray player does output 480i over HDMI
> 
> for SD DVDs into my D2 for GREAT SD DVD quality and
> 
> on Blu-Ray titles outputs 1080p/24 the only player on the
> 
> market to do that. I also feed a RUBY from my D2. JUST
> 
> STUNNING PQ and STUNNING Audio from the D2 and
> 
> Uncompressed Lossless PCM tracks on Blu-Ray Movies.
> 
> 
> My TWO CENT OPINION is your dealer is WRONG!



Can the BDP-HD1 be set to output 480i for SD, and *automatically* switch to 1080p for the BD discs? If yes, I may need to add that soon.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can the BDP-HD1 be set to output 480i for SD, and *automatically* switch to 1080p for the BD discs? If yes, I may need to add that soon.



Yes.


But to be more specific: you must engage the "source direct" option in the Pioneer. Blu-ray movies are encoded at 1080p/24....so the Pioneer will output 1080p/24 (not 1080p/60) since that is what is on the disc.


When you put in a standard DVD, it will output 480i...since that is what is on the disc.


Pretty cool feature!










The issue here is that the Anthem is currently having an issue with the Pioneer at 1080p/24 for some of us, resulting in stuttering. Someone with a Ruby (Hank) should chime in here.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you know what resolution was used for the audio?



24/48.


Rob.. haven't heard it yet, but I am sure it is awesome... I am a big fan of those mixers, and I heard the track was great/


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 24/48.
> 
> 
> Rob.. haven't heard it yet, but I am sure it is awesome... I am a big fan of those mixers, and I heard the track was great/



Cool. Would like to hear (pun intended







) your thoughts after you give it a spin.


These untrained ears thought it was fantastic.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The correct DVD choice would have been the Blu-Ray Pioneer
> 
> BDP-HD1 or the new replacement unit announced last week
> 
> by Pioneer.
> 
> 
> Why?
> 
> 
> Two Reasons.
> 
> 
> 1) Although I am FORMAT neutral - I have owned both formats
> 
> from DAY-ONE - Blu-Ray will win - not based on better technology
> 
> which is Sony's Opinion - but because more CONTENT will be
> 
> available on Blu-Ray than HD DVD.
> 
> 
> 2) The Pioneer Blu-Ray player does output 480i over HDMI
> 
> for SD DVDs into my D2 for GREAT SD DVD quality and
> 
> on Blu-Ray titles outputs 1080p/24 the only player on the
> 
> market to do that. I also feed a RUBY from my D2. JUST
> 
> STUNNING PQ and STUNNING Audio from the D2 and
> 
> Uncompressed Lossless PCM tracks on Blu-Ray Movies.
> 
> 
> My TWO CENT OPINION is your dealer is WRONG!




Don't forget that the BDPHD1 does not play CD's. One advantage to the Oppo is that in addition to 480i HDMI DVD you also get CD, SACD, DVD-A.


You could easily have both an HDDVD player and an Oppo 970 for less than the BDPHD1. If it were me, I'd get the A20/Oppo 970. No reason to spend extra for the XA2 (although I did). Both the XA2 and A20 should have 1080p24 output capability soon.


It seems there just isn't a true universal player right now.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The issue here is that the Anthem is currently having an issue with the Pioneer at 1080p/24 for some of us, resulting in stuttering. Someone with a Ruby (Hank) should chime in here.



The D2 timing with the Ruby is rock SOLID @ 24 or 48 fps.


With that said - I don't use it because the PQ is actually

better going 1080p/24 to D2 to 1080p/60 to Ruby.


WHY - that is a long story. It has nothing to do with the

D2 - it was the first PJ to handle 24 fps and the Ruby

has some issues that Sony refuses to fix - but it certainly

is NOT Shuttering - just a softer picture at 24 fps versus

60 fps.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't forget that the BDPHD1 does not play CD's. One advantage to the Oppo is that in addition to 480i HDMI DVD you also get CD, SACD, DVD-A.
> 
> (



True - but *tyorder1* should buy the New Pioneer which does play CD's

and is less money than the BDP-HD1 which he probably could not find any more.


----------



## obie_fl

Personally I'd still get a PS3 for Blu-ray, especially considering that they added 1080P24 and DLNA support last night.


----------



## LEVESQUE

I would also go with the PS3, or the new Samsung BD-P1200 (1080p24) + Oppo 970HD (480i). The new Samsung can also output 1080p24 just like the Pioneers to the D2, and with the new Reon-VX chip, it got the highest score ever on the Secrets Shoot-out by kris Deering (a D2 owners btw...). The Samsung can also be update on the fly via the ethernet connection, and cost less money then the Pioneers.


I sold my Pioneer BDP-HD1 last week, bought the new Samsung BD-P1200, and put alot of money back in my pocket.










With the Samsung, you can then choose the chip you prefer or the best for a particular situation (mixed content, etc), HQV Reon-VX or Gennum VXP in the D2.







Best of both worlds...


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 24/48.
> 
> 
> Rob.. haven't heard it yet, but I am sure it is awesome... I am a big fan of those mixers, and I heard the track was great/




Thanks!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would also go with the PS3, or the new Samsung BD-P1200 (1080p24) + Oppo 970HD (480i). The new Samsung can also output 1080p24 just like the Pioneers to the D2, and with the new Reon-VX chip, it got the highest score ever on the Secrets Shoot-out by kris Deering (a D2 owners btw...). The Samsung can also be update on the fly via the ethernet connection, and cost less money then the Pioneers.
> 
> 
> I sold my Pioneer BDP-HD1 last week, bought the new Samsung BD-P1200, and put alot of money back in my pocket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the Samsung, you can then choose the chip you prefer or the best for a particular situation (mixed content, etc), HQV Reon-VX or Gennum VXP in the D2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best of both worlds...



I agree with you that the Samsung player with its Reon chip will perform well on HQV tests as the Toshiba XA2 is doing. Meanwhile the crowd in this thread mainly bought the D2 not to worry about player VP performance. What we are looking for is good transports no matter the format.


I prefer the BDP-HD1 as a Blu-Ray transport because I got stability. Yes the Samsung BD-1200 could represent a saving but until we get feedback from users it still represent a risk in terms of product quality and stability.


One of the reason peoples agree to pay more for a Pioneer Elite product or a high end Denon etc... is to get stability. The XA2 is performing well on HD HQV test meanwhile we just finally achieve stability on that product 5 months after its release with firmware 1.6. Before that release we had to suffer freeze and playback issues on some titles. The fact that the Samsung performs well in test is a good start but doesn't guaranty quality and stability.


----------



## rafsel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I sold my Pioneer BDP-HD1 last week, bought the new Samsung BD-P1200, and put alot of money back in my pocket.



Where did you get it? I am in Canada as well and am saddened by the good deals south of the border yet unavailable to us....


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rafsel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where did you get it? I am in Canada as well and am saddened by the good deals south of the border yet unavailable to us....



Levesque is in Quebec and probably has a secret source for this stuff as he is a tester/reviewer










Future Shop has them in stock and retailing for 1000CAD
http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/pro...22&catid=24855 

Have to assume Best Buy is the same as they own Future Shop.


edit - just checked Best Buy Canada - same price and in stock
http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/prodde...22&catid=20208 


Based on present exchange rate we're only getting hosed for about 100-150 CAD compared to US prices, which is pretty good at this price point.


----------



## barhoram

How quickly does the Pioneer boot up to be ready to start playing SD DVD's, or eject the tray?? I'm currently using a Pioneer Elite 59AVI for SD-DVD's and love how quick it is. Is the BDP-HD1 even close for SD-DVDs? I have my 59AVI in the lobby area right next to the touchscreen. When I walk in and push "DVD" on the touchsreen the player turns on and ejects the tray waiting for the DVD. One more push of the touchscreen and the menus/previews are rolling as you walk to your seat. As you know, for the Toshiba HDDVD players, it's over 30 seconds for the tray to eject...so I put that player in the equipment room at the other end of the theater. I would be interested in possibly replacing the 59AVI with the BDP-HD1 if it is close to as responsive as the 59AVI. I don't mind the long load time (even for Blu-Ray disks) as long as it is after the disk is put in.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque is in Quebec and probably has a secret source for this stuff as he is a tester/reviewer



*YES THAT IS THE BOTTOM LINE.*


He gets stuff from Manufacturers before they are

released at *PAYOLA* Discounted prices for his review.


----------



## dknight

Sony just released their 1.80 firmware upgrade, which includes support for 1080p/24Hz output for Blu-Ray movies. I'm trying to get this working right now via the D2 to a JVC RS-1 (which natively supports 1080p/24).


I've got the D2 setup to output 1080p/24. The PS3 1080p/24 menu item is set to "Automatic" (the only other option is "Off"). The HDMI input on the D2 for the PS3 has Frame Lock set to "Auto".


When I start up a movie, the RS-1 blinks a blue screen a few times with a message stating that the Frequency of the input signal is out of range. After flashing that message 3 or 4 times I eventually get a picture, but it is at 60Hz, not 24Hz (based on the Info screen on the D2).


It appears to me that the D2 is attempting to sync up with the RS-1 at 24Hz several times, and then eventually falls back to 60Hz when that fails.


Anybody have any suggestions on what to try? Are my settings correct? Anybody else get this combination of devices to work as I am?


Thanks in advance.



-Dave


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sony just released their 1.80 firmware upgrade, which includes support for 1080p/24Hz output for Blu-Ray movies. I'm trying to get this working right now via the D2 to a JVC RS-1 (which natively supports 1080p/24).
> 
> 
> I've got the D2 setup to output 1080p/24. The PS3 1080p/24 menu item is set to "Automatic" (the only other option is "Off"). The HDMI input on the D2 for the PS3 has Frame Lock set to "Auto".
> 
> 
> When I start up a movie, the RS-1 blinks a blue screen a few times with a message stating that the Frequency of the input signal is out of range. After flashing that message 3 or 4 times I eventually get a picture, but it is at 60Hz, not 24Hz (based on the Info screen on the D2).
> 
> 
> It appears to me that the D2 is attempting to sync up with the RS-1 at 24Hz several times, and then eventually falls back to 60Hz when that fails.
> 
> 
> Anybody have any suggestions on what to try? Are my settings correct? Anybody else get this combination of devices to work as I am?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> -Dave



No you need to keep the D2 output resolution to 1080P60. In the video setup menu (press and hold down 7 for a few second to get that menu) there is an option called frame lock. There two choices for this option off or Auto. You need to select Auto.


You also need to have at least release 1.11e installed on the D2.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Dave- try setting the output signal of the D2 to 1080p/60 instead of 24 and see what happens. With frame lock = auto, you should still get 1080p/24 to the RS1. But it sounds like the Anthem is not locking onto the signal from the PS3. You can also try stopping and restarting the movie, or having it playing while you turn the D2 off and back on (I think this was working for Randall).


Edit: I see Tolstoi types faster than me!


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> *YES THAT IS THE BOTTOM LINE.*
> 
> 
> He gets stuff from Manufacturers before they are
> 
> released at *PAYOLA* Discounted prices for his review.



said in fun and with smiley faces attached.....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> said in fun and with smiley faces attached.....



Levesque admits to his fun


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque admits to his fun



You're just jealous...














Manufactuers are not paying me btw. My editor is paying me for my reviews, good or bad... And if you knew what I'm paid for a review...







It's like working 10 minutes in my "real life"...










Yes I'm a reviewer for an independant AV magazine, AND a beta-tester for alot of manufacturers, so I get to try and use ALOT of new stuff, sometimes months before they are out on the market officially.


But I'm doing it just for fun and to relax... I also have a really busy professionnal life outside of AVS, and making a pretty good living out of it... The "HT thing" is for fun. That's why I'm often saying that "there is a life outside of AVS!", since people often forget it.














i receive tons of e-mails from people who thinks that I'm working for Anthem...


I'm not. Just like Bob Pariseau, FilmMixer, Randall, Rob Tomlin, Tolstoi, drhankz and alot of other really helpful people hanging-out in here that I'm forgetting, Im just a REALLY happy D2 owner.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You're just jealous...



OK







You got me on that note


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No you need to keep the D2 output resolution to 1080P60. In the video setup menu (press and hold down 7 for a few second to get that menu) there is an option called frame lock. There two choices for this option off or Auto. You need to select Auto.
> 
> 
> You also need to have at least release 1.11e installed on the D2.



Thanks. I tried all of the above and am getting basically identical behavior. The info screen on the D2 shows 60Hz input and 60Hz output.


I also tried powering off and on the D2 after the movie is already playing and after the 3 or 4 "Frequency is out of range" messages from the RS-1, it eventually seems to settle in at 60Hz.


-Dave


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You're just jealous...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Manufactuers are not paying me btw. My editor is paying me for my reviews, good or bad... And if you knew what I'm paid for a review...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's like working 10 minutes in my "real life"...



AAnd keep in mind that being Canadian he also need to give half of it in income taxes. According to our government anybody who makes more then 100000$ CDN (90000$US) is highly rich and imposed accordingly.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. I tried all of the above and am getting basically identical behavior. The info screen on the D2 shows 60Hz input and 60Hz output.
> 
> 
> I also tried powering off and on the D2 after the movie is already playing and after the 3 or 4 "Frequency is out of range" messages from the RS-1, it eventually seems to settle in at 60Hz.
> 
> 
> -Dave



In fact the first test you should do is connecting the PS3 directly to the RS1 and set the PS3 to send 1080p24 and verify that the PS3 sync is working well with the RS1. The PS3 is now supporting 24fps but that doesn't mean this is going to work perfectly with all projectors on that first release.


I have tried 24fps from the Pioneer Elite with three 24fps compatible projectors and connected directly the RS1 is the slowest to sync it will take in average 7 sec while the Benq W9000 and the MIT5000 need 3-4 sec. During these 7 seconds you will see blu screen, "No Input", "Frequency is out of range" pages displayed one after the other.


When you are certain that you can sync directly with the PS3 than, you could insert the D2 in between.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. I tried all of the above and am getting basically identical behavior. The info screen on the D2 shows 60Hz input and 60Hz output.
> 
> 
> I also tried powering off and on the D2 after the movie is already playing and after the 3 or 4 "Frequency is out of range" messages from the RS-1, it eventually seems to settle in at 60Hz.
> 
> 
> -Dave



Have you tried going straight to the RS1 and checking to see if the 24p works without the D2?


----------



## lazarus28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Have you tried going straight to the RS1 and checking to see if the 24p works without the D2?




I have not tried directly, either, but my Panny 1080p acts exactly the same as his RS1 with the PS3 set to 1080p/24, (and using same menu setting and frame lock) so we can rule out the projector.


I'm really hoping that this gets worked out soon. I know multiple manufacturers are having issues with it, but I'm *really* impatient.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> True - but *tyorder1* should buy the New Pioneer which does play CD's
> 
> and is less money than the BDP-HD1 which he probably could not find any more.



Are you sure it plays CD's? That would be huge news for a BD drive to support CD's. You're talking about the HD94, right? I can't find any indication that it supports CD.


It's also HDMI 1.2 which is interesting.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The new Samsung can also output 1080p24 just like the Pioneers to the D2, and with the new Reon-VX chip, it got the highest score ever on the Secrets Shoot-out by kris Deering (a D2 owners btw...). The Samsung can also be update on the fly via the ethernet connection, and cost less money then the Pioneers.
> 
> 
> With the Samsung, you can then choose the chip you prefer or the best for a particular situation (mixed content, etc), HQV Reon-VX or Gennum VXP in the D2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best of both worlds...



At least comparing the implementation of the Reon in the XA2 to that of the Gennum VXP in the AVM50, the scaling of the Gennum VXP from 480 to 1080 is clearly superior. For DVD, I also easily prefer the Oppo feeding HDMI 480i to the Anthem over the XA2 upscaling to 1080p.


The Secrets ratings are heavily weighted by results via the HQV test disc. It doesn't suprise me the Reon performs well as both are manufactured by Silicon Optix. The XA2 also excels with the HQV disc.


This would lead me to believe the Reon could be a little over-rated. Of course, it could be differences in implementation as well.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> At least comparing the implementation of the Reon in the XA2 to that of the Gennum VXP in the AVM50, the scaling of the Gennum VXP from 480 to 1080 is clearly superior. For DVD, I also easily prefer the Oppo feeding HDMI 480i to the Anthem over the XA2 upscaling to 1080p.



There is not a clear winner in every stuations between the Gennum VXP and Reon-VX. If one was ALWAYS better then the other in EVERY situation, then it would be an easy choice for everyone...


Since I'm REALLY picky on the video side, and since I'm watching alot of Animation with strange and non-standard sequences and live video concerts filmed in video mode or with alot of mixed content, I prefer having both in my system, so I can choose the one I prefer for a particular situation.


Since I'm really picky and can spot every little video artifacts (and then I'm really bothered and annoyed... and can't watch anymore







), I can just simply choose the better chip for that situation. And since I have what could be considered a good video chain, and after investing that much money, I prefer having the 2 best video chips in my system and having the latitude to choose what I prefer.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you sure it plays CD's? That would be huge news for a BD drive to support CD's. You're talking about the HD94, right? I can't find any indication that it supports CD.
> 
> 
> It's also HDMI 1.2 which is interesting.



100% Guarantee CD Playback - It was part of Chris Walker's

Announcement to the AVS Forum, when the HD94 was announced.


FYI - when I was at CES in Las Vegas in January - I was in the

Blu-Ray organization BOOTH and they were saying CD playback

is part of the Blu-Ray REQUIREMENTS.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you sure it plays CD's? That would be huge news for a BD drive to support CD's. You're talking about the HD94, right? I can't find any indication that it supports CD.
> 
> 
> It's also HDMI 1.2 which is interesting.



[EDITED AS I REALIZED A MISTAKE HERE]


Yes, the new Pioneer 94HD will indeed play CD's, that's a fact. And yes, HDMI 1.2. It will supposedly be much faster with loading and responding than the BDP-HD1, and will support Dolby TrueHD and Dolby Digital Plus decoding in the player for multichannel output over HDMI from Day One - DTS-HD High Res will be added VERY soon.


Also, supposedly some improvements to the GUI, and to the networking functions that stream music, photos, movies, etc. as well.


That's about it.

-Brian


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lazarus28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have not tried directly, either, but my Panny 1080p acts exactly the same as his RS1 with the PS3 set to 1080p/24, (and using same menu setting and frame lock) so we can rule out the projector.
> 
> 
> I'm really hoping that this gets worked out soon. I know multiple manufacturers are having issues with it, but I'm *really* impatient.



Yes, but can you rule out the PS3?


I have been able to get 24P to the RS1 through the D2 with firmwares 1.11e, 1.11g, and 1.12k. The 1.12k is the only firmware that works without glitches for my setup which is the Pioneer BDP HD1 to D2 to RS1. I don't have a PS3.


The frame lock on auto still has some handshake HDMI issues that I am sure Anthem is aware of and working on.

It works best for me if I have the D2 selected to my Pioneer source and then turn off the power to the D2. I then turn on the BDP HD1 and start the disc playing and wait for the timer to start counting. Once the counter has begun I turn on the D2 and just wait for it to sync. It will flash a few times and lock on.


It is a bit of a pain, but I really like the 24P better. I'm sure Anthem will have a new firmware soon that will be more user friendly.


----------



## lazarus28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, but can you rule out the PS3?
> 
> 
> I have been able to get 24P to the RS1 through the D2 with firmwares 1.11e, 1.11g, and 1.12k. The 1.12k is the only firmware that works without glitches for my setup which is the Pioneer BDP HD1 to D2 to RS1. I don't have a PS3.
> 
> 
> The frame lock on auto still has some handshake HDMI issues that I am sure Anthem is aware of and working on.
> 
> It works best for me if I have the D2 selected to my Pioneer source and then turn off the power to the D2. I then turn on the BDP HD1 and start the disc playing and wait for the timer to start counting. Once the counter has begun I turn on the D2 and just wait for it to sync. It will flash a few times and lock on.
> 
> 
> It is a bit of a pain, but I really like the 24P better. I'm sure Anthem will have a new firmware soon that will be more user friendly.



I definitely can't rule out the PS3 yet, and didn't mean to imply it. Just was trying to rule out the display.


And thanks for the tips. I'm running version e at the moment and will give it a go.


Are there any negatives to 1.12? Anyone know if it still has XA-2 issues?


----------



## agrsiv95

I have 1.11g and cannot get 1080/24 playback through the D2. I can run the PS3 to the display and it sees and displays 1080/24 perfect. I talked to Nick yesterday and he said to set framelock to auto and it would take longer to sync but will work. It does take longer but will only see 59.94. Anybody have an idea as to why the D2 only sees 59.94?


Jeremy


----------



## jkrstich

Bob,

I've been reading away here trying to get the most out of what's on tap. From what I've read it sounds optimum feed to the AVM50 (got it a month ago and still experimenting probably for the next year, or just in time for the next version), and Oppo 981 would be the 1080i feed from the Oppo since the 981 doesn't offer 480i. It offers 480p, 720p. I've got the feed from the AVM 50 to the Pioneer 5070 set at 'Auto' resolution. The Pioneer is a somewhat an odd ball native resolution 1365 X 768. Also, the latest Directv Plus DVR box which so far so good is set at 1080i as well. Am I in the ballpark with this set-up? My frustration is odd: I've experimented a lot and (1) have difficulty really seeing too much of a difference in the picture quality and (2) what's piece of equipment is doing the scaling de-interlacing - the AVM50. the Oppo 981, or the Pioneer 5070. One last thing: I am looking forward to playing with the recommendations you posted for the Color bars and SMPTE text patterns. Will report back.

Thanks, jk


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkrstich* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I've been reading away here trying to get the most out of what's on tap. From what I've read it sounds optimum feed to the AVM50 (got it a month ago and still experimenting probably for the next year, or just in time for the next version), and Oppo 981 would be the 1080i feed from the Oppo since the 981 doesn't offer 480i. It offers 480p, 720p. I've got the feed from the AVM 50 to the Pioneer 5070 set at 'Auto' resolution. The Pioneer is a somewhat an odd ball native resolution 1365 X 768. Also, the latest Directv Plus DVR box which so far so good is set at 1080i as well. Am I in the ballpark with this set-up? My frustration is odd: I've experimented a lot and (1) have difficulty really seeing too much of a difference in the picture quality and (2) what's piece of equipment is doing the scaling de-interlacing - the AVM50. the Oppo 981, or the Pioneer 5070. One last thing: I am looking forward to playing with the recommendations you posted for the Color bars and SMPTE text patterns. Will report back.
> 
> Thanks, jk



Sounds mostly right to me. Have you experimented with custom resolutions? My current firmware offers a 1366 x768p/60 and a 1360 x 768p/60 , you may want to experiment with these or you might want to try modifying one of these to 1365 in LVSE. Someone else with your display may already know the correct timings and you could plug them in.


Sounds like you are talking about SD DVD so the Oppo would be upscaling to 1080i, then the D2 would deinterlace and downscale to the 1365x768p. I'm not sure what the auto is sending but I would guess the 1366x 768p. I think you are doing the right thing in just looking at the picture and seeing what you think looks best. Why not look at the new Pioneer Elite model and you could sent 480i to the D2 and watch Blu Ray also?


----------



## tyorder1

I'm having trouble setting the output of the XBOX360 to anything other than 720p through component through the D2/amv50 to a sony ruby. Does anyone have any suggestions for what I should do or has anyone encountered problems? I think I want to output 1080p and just pass the video through without any processing to the projector, but when I try to change the video on the XBOX to anything other than 720p the screen goes blank. Suggestions???


----------



## Randall Morton

I don't have an Xbox 360 or a Ruby, but will the Xbox output 1080P directly to the Ruby over component? If it won't, then the problem is not with the D2.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tyorder1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm having trouble setting the output of the XBOX360 to anything other than 720p through component through the D2/amv50 to a sony ruby. Does anyone have any suggestions for what I should do or has anyone encountered problems? I think I want to output 1080p and just pass the video through without any processing to the projector, but when I try to change the video on the XBOX to anything other than 720p the screen goes blank. Suggestions???



The D2 DOES NOT ACCEPT 1080p over Component.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D2 DOES NOT ACCEPT 1080p over Component.



I thought it would accept and process up to 1080p30 over component and accept and pass (but not process) 1080p50/60.


If 1080p60 is input over component, it will only pass to the component outputs. Up to 1080p30 will be processed and can be output via HDMI up to 1080p60.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tyorder1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm having trouble setting the output of the XBOX360 to anything other than 720p through component through the D2/amv50 to a sony ruby. Does anyone have any suggestions for what I should do or has anyone encountered problems? I think I want to output 1080p and just pass the video through without any processing to the projector, but when I try to change the video on the XBOX to anything other than 720p the screen goes blank. Suggestions???



To pass 1080p60 through component input you'll have to use component output. Since it's only passed and not processed via component, it won't output via HDMI. Up to 1080p30 can be processed with component input and therfore output via HDMI at whatever resolution you choose up to 1080p60.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkrstich* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> The Pioneer is a somewhat an odd ball native resolution 1365 X 768. Thanks, jk



I would go to the 5070 owner's thread and see if anyone has had success feeding native to this panel and with what timings.


Since NEC has been purchased by Pio and are now using similar rez panels, this might be a start:

_It turns out that the NEC does take 1365 x 768. See the quote from NEC below. The settings they refer to are (for the 60") HTOT=1526, HACT=1365, HFRN=51, HSYN=50, VTOT=788, VACT=768, VFRN=4, VSYN=4._


These timings work for me via HDMI to an NEC XR5. Whether they'll work on the Pio 5070 I haven't a clue.


----------



## jkrstich




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sounds mostly right to me. Have you experimented with custom resolutions? My current firmware offers a 1366 x768p/60 and a 1360 x 768p/60 , you may want to experiment with these or you might want to try modifying one of these to 1365 in LVSE. Someone else with your display may already know the correct timings and you could plug them in.
> 
> 
> Sounds like you are talking about SD DVD so the Oppo would be upscaling to 1080i, then the D2 would deinterlace and downscale to the 1365x768p. I'm not sure what the auto is sending but I would guess the 1366x 768p. I think you are doing the right thing in just looking at the picture and seeing what you think looks best. Why not look at the new Pioneer Elite model and you could sent 480i to the D2 and watch Blu Ray also?



Thank you for your quick feedback. The Elite 1080p was very tempting (less headaches, more money) but it was a cost issue and I just jumped in after years of sitting on the side lines being a 'waterboy'. It's so much fun that I'm possessed. It seems like I tried those res configs but I need to start keeping some records with comments for my own edification as I learn. Really no compliant about the picture but Iamb such a control freak that I like to 'know' who's doing the work in the system. One last thing: I hvae not experimented with 'Custom'. Good suggestion. jk


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tyorder1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm having trouble setting the output of the XBOX360 to anything other than 720p through component through the D2/amv50 to a sony ruby. Does anyone have any suggestions for what I should do or has anyone encountered problems? I think I want to output 1080p and just pass the video through without any processing to the projector, but when I try to change the video on the XBOX to anything other than 720p the screen goes blank. Suggestions???



The regular 360 can output max of 1080i over component, 1080p on vga only, unless you are using the new Elite 360 with an HDMI connection .


I feed my xbox 360 into AVM50 at 1080i over component, and out at 1080p on HDMI, looks amazing.


If you can't get a picture at 1080i component in, its likely you have the 1080i bug, what version is your software?


Hope this helps,


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have 1.11g and cannot get 1080/24 playback through the D2. I can run the PS3 to the display and it sees and displays 1080/24 perfect. I talked to Nick yesterday and he said to set framelock to auto and it would take longer to sync but will work. It does take longer but will only see 59.94. Anybody have an idea as to why the D2 only sees 59.94?



I tried connecting my PS3 directly to the RS-1 and it syncs up at 24p no problem. Putting the D2 in the loop and no matter what I try I can't get anything other than 59.94.


I sent an email to Nick early this morning and still haven't gotten a reply. Hopefully I'll hear something soon. I'm hoping he's got the same combination of devices (especially since Anthem will be rebadging the RS-1/HD-1) and can reproduce in the lab.


-Dave


----------



## Ranger620

I have a problem with my AVM50 guys.


I have no sound. Well, sometimes I do, but i need to shut down the AVM50 then start it back up. Its not even registering it from the players/sources. I'm using version 1.10 software. Using PS3 for a source, and a Marantz dvd player both hooked up via hdmi. It was working fine for the longest time, now nothing.


If I turn it on and off a few times, it'll kick in and register the audio signal, but if i switch inputs then it goes away again. Very frustrating.


Has this happened to anyone else?


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> AAnd keep in mind that being Canadian he also need to give half of it in income taxes. According to our government anybody who makes more then 100000$ CDN (90000$US) is highly rich and imposed accordingly.



That's what we're suppose pay too, but we can write off the interest on our home, which I don't think you guys can.


Back on topic, is there a way to get the AVM50 to trigger the amp faster? When it triggers the amp, it seems to draw enough current that it resets my TV- which is turned on first by my Harmony. I called Harmony to see if I could turn on the TV last, and they said they couldn't do that.


When the TV resets (basically turns off right after it's turn on) I think the HDMI is all screwed up and I need to cycle to input 2, and then back to input 1... after giving it 1-2 minutes to sort things out.


I don't have any problems if I could turn on the amp first and then the TV.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's what we're suppose pay too, but we can write off the interest on our home, which I don't think you guys can.
> 
> 
> Back on topic, is there a way to get the AVM50 to trigger the amp faster? When it triggers the amp, it seems to draw enough current that it resets my TV- which is turned on first by my Harmony. I called Harmony to see if I could turn on the TV last, and they said they couldn't do that.
> 
> 
> When the TV resets (basically turns off right after it's turn on) I think the HDMI is all screwed up and I need to cycle to input 2, and then back to input 1... after giving it 1-2 minutes to sort things out.
> 
> 
> I don't have any problems if I could turn on the amp first and then the TV.



Did you try plugging the TV (or amp) to a different circuit to see if it helps?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I sent an email to Nick early this morning and still haven't gotten a reply.



Do you think the POOR MAN works 24 hours per day


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is not a clear winner in every stuations between the Gennum VXP and Reon-VX. If one was ALWAYS better then the other in EVERY situation, then it would be an easy choice for everyone...
> 
> 
> Since I'm REALLY picky on the video side, and since I'm watching alot of Animation with strange and non-standard sequences and live video concerts filmed in video mode or with alot of mixed content, I prefer having both in my system, so I can choose the one I prefer for a particular situation.
> 
> 
> Since I'm really picky and can spot every little video artifacts (and then I'm really bothered and annoyed... and can't watch anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), I can just simply choose the better chip for that situation. And since I have what could be considered a good video chain, and after investing that much money, I prefer having the 2 best video chips in my system and having the latitude to choose what I prefer.




The only situation I will use the Reon instead of the D2 is when I am watching one of these really noisy DVD. Then I use the XA2 and turn its noise reduction. This the only I have with the [email protected] VP processing is the lack of good noise reduction.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lazarus28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I definitely can't rule out the PS3 yet, and didn't mean to imply it. Just was trying to rule out the display.
> 
> 
> And thanks for the tips. I'm running version e at the moment and will give it a go.
> 
> 
> Are there any negatives to 1.12? Anyone know if it still has XA-2 issues?




1.12 is not even a beta software and as such there is issues with it. The XA2 HDMI for both video and audio doesn't work at all. You put 1.12 in the D2 you will have to connect the XA2 directly to the display and revert to coax input for the audio.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's what we're suppose pay too, but we can write off the interest on our home, which I don't think you guys can.
> 
> 
> Back on topic, is there a way to get the AVM50 to trigger the amp faster? When it triggers the amp, it seems to draw enough current that it resets my TV- which is turned on first by my Harmony. I called Harmony to see if I could turn on the TV last, and they said they couldn't do that.
> 
> 
> When the TV resets (basically turns off right after it's turn on) I think the HDMI is all screwed up and I need to cycle to input 2, and then back to input 1... after giving it 1-2 minutes to sort things out.
> 
> 
> I don't have any problems if I could turn on the amp first and then the TV.





For proper HDCP sync it is always better to turn on the display than your D2 and finally the player. This is exactly what the Harmony is doing. In your case is lack of proper power to supply your system. It would preferable to resolve the problem at the source which to get an other electrical circuit for your amp.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tried connecting my PS3 directly to the RS-1 and it syncs up at 24p no problem. Putting the D2 in the loop and no matter what I try I can't get anything other than 59.94.
> 
> 
> I sent an email to Nick early this morning and still haven't gotten a reply. Hopefully I'll hear something soon. I'm hoping he's got the same combination of devices (especially since Anthem will be rebadging the RS-1/HD-1) and can reproduce in the lab.
> 
> 
> -Dave




It is not clear to me which D2 release are you using? You need as a minimum to play 24fps 1.11e.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you think the POOR MAN works 24 hours per day



He CAN'T sleep since he has to answer those hundreds of e-mails about the lack of HDMI 1.3 on the Anthems he's receiving regularly!










And the worst part is that it's true.







Nick told me a good chunk of the e-mails they get at Anthem is about HDMI 1.3, and he has to answer them one at a time, each of them... Sigh... HDMI 1.3, what a mess...


----------



## Fishysan

Hey gang,


Finally got my RS1 back, now have it connected to my new D2!







WOOHOO!







Looks fab. Can't wait to get my CIH lens set up this weekend too to finally try some of the scaling settings I configured in the D2.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The regular 360 can output max of 1080i over component, 1080p on vga only, unless you are using the new Elite 360 with an HDMI connection .
> 
> If you can't get a picture at 1080i component in, its likely you have the 1080i bug, what version is your software?



Not quite - the 360 will output 1080p over component no problem for games and non-DVD CP materials. I agree it looks good via 1080i component though the D2 via HDMI. I couldn't get 1080i working with the 360 until I updated to 1.11e also. I wonder though if there are any games rendering in 1080i or 1080p where it matters - or set the 360 to 720p and let the D2 do better scaling - need to check that.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tried connecting my PS3 directly to the RS-1 and it syncs up at 24p no problem. Putting the D2 in the loop and no matter what I try I can't get anything other than 59.94.



Same here Dave - I can't get it to work - running v1.11e myself. I've not tried direct yet though. If it gets working I might have to flogg my A2 (or move it upstairs) and get an A20 when they release the 24p patch so I'll have 24p support for Red vs Blue.










What's this about Anthem rebadging RS1/HD1s?? Maybe we'll get some custom resolutions and handshake optimizations! yay!


----------



## jluloff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The regular 360 can output max of 1080i over component, 1080p on vga only, unless you are using the new Elite 360 with an HDMI connection .
> 
> 
> I feed my xbox 360 into AVM50 at 1080i over component, and out at 1080p on HDMI, looks amazing.
> 
> 
> If you can't get a picture at 1080i component in, its likely you have the 1080i bug, what version is your software?
> 
> 
> Hope this helps,




This is exactly what I am doing ...xbox 360 into AVM50 at 1080i over component and out at 1080P on HDMI to Sony Pearl...also have to agree that it looks amazing!!


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is not clear to me which D2 release are you using? You need as a minimum to play 24fps 1.11e.



I'm running 1.11e currently. I originally was using 1.11g but it has its share of issues with the XA2 so I reverted to e.


-Dave


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> He CAN'T sleep since he has to answer those hundreds of e-mails about the lack of HDMI 1.3 on the Anthems he's receiving regularly!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the worst part is that it's true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nick told me a good chunk of the e-mails they get at Anthem is about HDMI 1.3, and he has to answer them one at a time, each of them... Sigh... HDMI 1.3, what a mess...



But all he has to do is attach the HDMI v1.3 PDF document

Anthem has on their website and send it back in the e-mail.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is exactly what I am doing ...xbox 360 into AVM50 at 1080i over component and out at 1080P on HDMI to Sony Pearl...also have to agree that it looks amazing!!



RIGHT - 1080i over *Component-In* is all you can

get through the D2. All my DVRs are hooked up that

way sending 1080p over HDMI to Sony Ruby.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But all he has to do is attach the HDMI v1.3 PDF document
> 
> Anthem has on their website and send it back in the e-mail.



Yes, but Nick like to personnalized every answer. So he takes the time to answer each one of those.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, but Nick like to personnalized every answer. So he takes the time to answer each one of those.



I can understand that











Add the guys name and attach the PDF.


That is personalized


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Add the guys name and attach the PDF.
> 
> That is personalized



Funny guy!







That would not be Anthem if they were doing that, and you know it...


----------



## JeffDL

After I posted my stacking picture set up with the D2 on the bottom of a stack I got many cautions about the heat it generates and to move it to it's own self. Well I finally got my Boltz equipment rack yesterday to match my TV stand and made the transfer to the rack, man that was a lot of work. And yes you guys were correct I don't know how my XA2 which was directly on top of the D2 didn't melt. That thing throws some serious heat. Much happier with the setup having all of the electronics off to the side makes watching movies that much better, less distraction from all the cool lights. Would post pictures but I had to give back my reference 100's v4's as they were on loaner and got sold so now I am using my old Energy C-9's for fronts while waiting on the new Signature S8's to arrive so my system is kind of "ghetto" now.


oh yeah the Matrix HD-DVD's with TrueHD sound are nothing short of amazing!!!!


I think if my house caught fire the only thing I would grab as I went out the door would be the D2. (no kids so don't worry I'm not leaving them behind)


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think if my house caught fire the only thing I would grab as I went out the door would be the Anthem D2.



You should put this in your signature. Nice motto.


----------



## barhoram

Is there a way to adjust the video settings (color, contrast, brightnets) sliders while looking at the Anthem generated color bar? If I hold down the "0" the video setting sliders pop up....but when I do this while in the color bars are being displayed, the color bars dissapear.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Funny guy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would not be Anthem if they were doing that, and you know it...



It is called being efficient.


Technically uninformed people asking dumb

questions who *DO NOT OWN* Anthem Products

SHOULD be a LOWER Priority than *OWNERS*

wo do -- and are seeking problem resolutions

and support.


I think you will find MOST *owners* here would

agree with my opinion on this.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And yes you guys were correct I don't know how my XA2 which was directly on top of the D2 didn't melt.



You are lucky the D2 didn't melt also.


Glad to hear you have some air flow now.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You should put this in your signature. Nice motto.













Laughed out loud on that one!


That really would be a funny signature line.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laughed out loud on that one!
> 
> 
> That really would be a funny signature line.




BUT A GREAT ONE


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a way to adjust the video settings (color, contrast, brightnets) sliders while looking at the Anthem generated color bar? If I hold down the "0" the video setting sliders pop up....but when I do this while in the color bars are being displayed, the color bars dissapear.



Since Bob Pariseau seems to be sleeping in







, I'll give a recommendation. Display the color bars when you are calibrating your display - and use the color, constrast, brightness etc on your TV or projector. Then use these controls in the Video Source menu to tweak each source.


When I had an ISF calibration done, they set the brightness/contrast/color/tint on the Video Source menu to 50 for each item. Once the projector was dialed in, then we could tweak each Source separately for the last bit of video goodness.


(Bob will be along soon to explain it much better







)


----------



## tyorder1

Okay, so I've only had my d2/avm50 for a week so I'm still learning about it. So I apologize in advance for my lack of knowledge. Anyway...


When I press the select button on the remote it says : AVM50 v1.11


What I want to do is output my xbox360 at 1080i over component but when I select 1080i the screen goes blank. What should I do. I noticed other posters had success with this setup.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1.12 is not even a beta software and as such there is issues with it. The XA2 HDMI for both video and audio doesn't work at all. You put 1.12 in the D2 you will have to connect the XA2 directly to the display and revert to coax input for the audio.



My XA2 video works fine with the 1.12K, its the audio I have trouble with. I've actually had the audio and video working at the same time once, but I haven't been able to repeat it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tyorder1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, so I've only had my d2/avm50 for a week so I'm still learning about it. So I apologize in advance for my lack of knowledge. Anyway...
> 
> 
> When I press the select button on the remote it says : AVM50 v1.11
> 
> 
> What I want to do is output my xbox360 at 1080i over component but when I select 1080i the screen goes blank. What should I do. I noticed other posters had success with this setup.



If your XBOX works fine when set to send Component 720p to the Anthem, but you loose video if the XBOX is set to send Component 1080i to the Anthem, then odds are you've been bitten by the 1080i/1080p input bug that has hit a few owners. Contact Anthem tech support and they will likely email you the V1.11e test software. That should fix you up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a way to adjust the video settings (color, contrast, brightnets) sliders while looking at the Anthem generated color bar? If I hold down the "0" the video setting sliders pop up....but when I do this while in the color bars are being displayed, the color bars dissapear.



What you are trying to do won't work. Those Video Source Adjust settings alter the INPUT video from each source device. The test bar patterns are factory-calibrated video signals generated internally by the Anthem AFTER the point in the video path where those Video Source Adjustments would take effect.


GDC, got it right. See the "Video calibration for non-ISF techs" link in the first post in this thread for more details.


Basically you bring up the Anthem's test bar patterns and adjust your TV's own video level controls (Brightness, Contrast, Color, Tint, and Sharpness) to best display those patterns. This is independent of any source device video, and also independent of those settings in the Video Source Adjust menu. I.e., the test bar patterns generate the same video regardless of which source you have selected (or even if NO video is being input) and regardless of what you have those Video Source Adjust settings set to.


Then, for each source, you fine tune as necessary using the Video Source Adjust settings, while leaving your TV's settings unchanged.

--Bob


----------



## tyorder1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If your XBOX works fine when set to send Component 720p to the Anthem, but you loose video if the XBOX is set to send Component 1080i to the Anthem, then odds are you've been bitten by the 1080i/1080p input bug that has hit a few owners. Contact Anthem tech support and they will likely email you the V1.11e test software. That should fix you up.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks for your help and suggestions Bob. I've emailed anthem and asked them for their help.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since Bob Pariseau seems to be sleeping in



Yep, I was surprised also that it took "them", at "Bob Pariseau Inc", more then 2 minutes to answer that question.










gdc, maybe you don't know, but we all know in here since a long time ago that there is more then 1 person working at "Bob Pariseau Inc", maybe 15 to 20 persons probably... That's why he sometimes put a "We at Bob Pariseau" when writing a new answer. ..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tried connecting my PS3 directly to the RS-1 and it syncs up at 24p no problem. Putting the D2 in the loop and no matter what I try I can't get anything other than 59.94.
> 
> 
> I sent an email to Nick early this morning and still haven't gotten a reply. Hopefully I'll hear something soon. I'm hoping he's got the same combination of devices (especially since Anthem will be rebadging the RS-1/HD-1) and can reproduce in the lab.
> 
> 
> -Dave



Guys, I would suggest you not spend a lot of time trying to make 1080p/24 output work from the D2 with any of the V1.11 software versions regardless of which display you have. You will likely just frustrate yourself.


It is beginning to look like the V1.12 software may fix this, but that software is not yet ready for prime time.


Until then, if you want to use 1080p/24 from ANY source, my recommendation is that you turn Frame Lock=OFF and set Video Output to 1080p/60. Let the Anthem convert 1080p/24 input to 1080p/60 output.


-------------------------------------------


Now there are some people who've had success with SOME displays using 1080p/24 in kind of a "pass through" mode for the video timings. That means you leave the default Video Output set at 1080p/60 and use Frame Lock=AUTO to cause the Anthem to override that and instead transfer the video timings of the 1080p/24 input source to its output. But we've had reports here that this is not working with ALL 1080p/24 sources nor with ALL 1080p/24 capable displays.


So try it if you want. You may catch a blue bird here. But I think waiting for the V1.12 software is probably a better use of your time.


1080p/24 input to 1080p/60 output with Frame Lock=OFF should be rock solid with the V1.11 software versions. The V1.11e software seems to be the best of the bunch right now, although plenty of people are operating just fine with the original V1.11. I'm still on the original V1.11 myself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would go to the 5070 owner's thread and see if anyone has had success feeding native to this panel and with what timings.
> 
> 
> Since NEC has been purchased by Pio and are now using similar rez panels, this might be a start:
> 
> _It turns out that the NEC does take 1365 x 768. See the quote from NEC below. The settings they refer to are (for the 60") HTOT=1526, HACT=1365, HFRN=51, HSYN=50, VTOT=788, VACT=768, VFRN=4, VSYN=4._
> 
> 
> These timings work for me via HDMI to an NEC XR5. Whether they'll work on the Pio 5070 I haven't a clue.



My understanding is that NONE of the current crop of 768p Pioneer plasmas will actually accept their native 768p resolution as a valid video input resolution.


This is a shocking lack from an otherwise great product, but there it is.


Your best bet for these Pioneer plasmas is likely to drive them at the "standard" 720p resolution from the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My XA2 video works fine with the 1.12K, its the audio I have trouble with. I've actually had the audio and video working at the same time once, but I haven't been able to repeat it.




I managed to get the Audio/video working only once.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ranger620* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a problem with my AVM50 guys.
> 
> 
> I have no sound. Well, sometimes I do, but i need to shut down the AVM50 then start it back up. Its not even registering it from the players/sources. I'm using version 1.10 software. Using PS3 for a source, and a Marantz dvd player both hooked up via hdmi. It was working fine for the longest time, now nothing.
> 
> 
> If I turn it on and off a few times, it'll kick in and register the audio signal, but if i switch inputs then it goes away again. Very frustrating.
> 
> 
> Has this happened to anyone else?



You should contact Anthem tech support. Most likely they will ask you to try the V1.11e test software. They will also likely explore how your AVM50 is ventilated (whether you have a heat problem now that we are back in warm weather season) and what quality/length of HDMI cables you are using.


You could have a developing hardware problem, but software/cooling/cables are the first things to try.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Guys, I would suggest you not spend a lot of time trying to make 1080p/24 output work from the D2 with any of the V1.11 software versions regardless of which display you have. You will likely just frustrate yourself.
> 
> 
> It is beginning to look like the V1.12 software may fix this, but that software is not yet ready for prime time.
> 
> 
> Until then, if you want to use 1080p/24 from ANY source, my recommendation is that you turn Frame Lock=OFF and set Video Output to 1080p/60. Let the Anthem convert 1080p/24 input to 1080p/60 output.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now there are some people who've had success with SOME displays using 1080p/24 in kind of a "pass through" mode for the video timings. That means you leave the default Video Output set at 1080p/60 and use Frame Lock=AUTO to cause the Anthem to override that and instead transfer the video timings of the 1080p/24 input source to its output. But we've had reports here that this is not working with ALL 1080p/24 sources nor with ALL 1080p/24 capable displays.
> 
> 
> So try it if you want. You may catch a blue bird here. But I think waiting for the V1.12 software is probably a better use of your time.
> 
> 
> 1080p/24 input to 1080p/60 output with Frame Lock=OFF should be rock solid with the V1.11 software versions. The V1.11e software seems to be the best of the bunch right now, although plenty of people are operating just fine with the original V1.11. I'm still on the original V1.11 myself.
> 
> --Bob



Bob I managed to get it to work with 1.12K. Meanwhile the price to pay for this is that 1.12k seriously screw up the XA2. But this is since we know it is test software not even a beta.


I received the Matrix Ultimate edition yesterday and to what it in a perfect environment (meaning being able to have TrueHD sound) I will probably reinstall the D2 to 1.11e.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob I managed to get it to work with 1.12K. Meanwhile the price to pay for this is that 1.12k seriously screw up the XA2. But this is since we know it is test software not even a beta.
> 
> 
> I received the Matrix Ultimate edition yesterday and to what it in a perfect environment (meaning being able to have TrueHD sound) I will probably reinstall the D2 to 1.11e.



I have this ordered but haven't received it yet. Like you, I will probably go back to the 1.11e to watch these.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkrstich* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I've been reading away here trying to get the most out of what's on tap. From what I've read it sounds optimum feed to the AVM50 (got it a month ago and still experimenting probably for the next year, or just in time for the next version), and Oppo 981 would be the 1080i feed from the Oppo since the 981 doesn't offer 480i. It offers 480p, 720p. I've got the feed from the AVM 50 to the Pioneer 5070 set at 'Auto' resolution. The Pioneer is a somewhat an odd ball native resolution 1365 X 768. Also, the latest Directv Plus DVR box which so far so good is set at 1080i as well. Am I in the ballpark with this set-up? My frustration is odd: I've experimented a lot and (1) have difficulty really seeing too much of a difference in the picture quality and (2) what's piece of equipment is doing the scaling de-interlacing - the AVM50. the Oppo 981, or the Pioneer 5070. One last thing: I am looking forward to playing with the recommendations you posted for the Color bars and SMPTE text patterns. Will report back.
> 
> Thanks, jk



I would recommend setting your Oppo 981 to HDMI 480p output since it won't do HDMI 480i. Let the Anthem do any scaling that needs to be done.


If your DVR can't be set to track the video resolution of whatever channel you are currently tuned to, then 1080i output is your best bet. That will give you best viewing of HDTV 1080i. It won't be ideal for HDTV 720p programs, and it REALLY won't be ideal for SDTV (which is 480i) programs, but you will likely be doing most of your critical viewing while watching HDTV 1080i programs.


Now some of their DVRs can be set to track the incoming resolution on each program. That's best. With others, you can manually change the resolution on the fly fairly easily. Switching between 1080i and 480i as you go between HDTV and SDTV will likely make your SDTV viewing more fun as the de-interlacing of 480i in these boxes (a necessary step before the box can scale the signal up to 1080i) is pretty awful -- much worse that what the Anthem will do if you feed it unmolested SDTV 480i.


Many DirecTV owners have discovered that DirecTV has pretty crappy SDTV channels. They are WAY overcompressed in many cases (blockiness is very visible in solid patches of color and as things move). Sending 480i to the Anthem won't eliminate that -- the damage has already been done to the image before it ever gets to your house. These artifacts are sometimes bad enough that you will only see them, and not the improvements that happen if you send 480i to the Anthem. So being lazy and leaving the box at 1080i to the Anthem may not be all that bad.


My understanding is that your Pioneer plasma will not acccept its native resolution as a valid input resolution. So let's follow what happens if you send HDMI 480p from the Oppo to the Anthem, and HDMI 720p to your plasma from the Anthem:


1) DVD imagery comes off the disc at 480i

2) The Oppo de-interlaces that to 480p and sends it to the Anthem

3) The Anthem does color space and video level adjustments

4) The Anthem scales the video to 720p and sends that to the Pioneer

5) The Pioneer does video level adjustments

6) The Pioneer scales the video (again) to its "native" 768p resolution

7) The display lights up.


===================================


EDITED TO ADD: Be sure to get familiar with the setup suggestions in the "Video calibration for non-ISF techs" post linked off the first post in this thread. Modern displays are very finicky about proper settings. It is much easier to see the quality of the Anthem's video once you have your display and sources set up correctly. For example, simply using the wrong "Picture Mode" setting in your display can mask a tremendous amount of video quality.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Guys, I would suggest you not spend a lot of time trying to make 1080p/24 output work from the D2 with any of the V1.11 software versions regardless of which display you have. You will likely just frustrate yourself.
> 
> 
> It is beginning to look like the V1.12 software may fix this, but that software is not yet ready for prime time.
> 
> 
> Until then, if you want to use 1080p/24 from ANY source, my recommendation is that you turn Frame Lock=OFF and set Video Output to 1080p/60. Let the Anthem convert 1080p/24 input to 1080p/60 output.
> 
> ...
> 
> 1080p/24 input to 1080p/60 output with Frame Lock=OFF should be rock solid with the V1.11 software versions. The V1.11e software seems to be the best of the bunch right now, although plenty of people are operating just fine with the original V1.11. I'm still on the original V1.11 myself.*--Bob



Well said guys. The voice of reason, again. Good thing we got you guys at Bob Pariseau Inc.










Edit.


While I was writing that, the guys at Bob's were able to write 2 long and complete messages BEFORE I was able to post 1 line! There MUST be more then 1 Bob there, or else he's faster then is own shadow! Wow!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's what we're suppose pay too, but we can write off the interest on our home, which I don't think you guys can.
> 
> 
> Back on topic, is there a way to get the AVM50 to trigger the amp faster? When it triggers the amp, it seems to draw enough current that it resets my TV- which is turned on first by my Harmony. I called Harmony to see if I could turn on the TV last, and they said they couldn't do that.
> 
> 
> When the TV resets (basically turns off right after it's turn on) I think the HDMI is all screwed up and I need to cycle to input 2, and then back to input 1... after giving it 1-2 minutes to sort things out.
> 
> 
> I don't have any problems if I could turn on the amp first and then the TV.



Some TV's can be turned on via the 12 volt trigger from the Anthem. If that's the case with your TV then you can instruct the Harmony to leave the TV turned on all the time (i.e., the Harmony won't send power on/off commands to the TV) and then you can actually turn on the TV using the Anthem trigger -- either whenever the Anthem is on, or only when certain sources are selected.


The three Anthem triggers have a 1/4 second delay between them, so if you put the amp on trigger 1 and the TV on trigger 3 that may give you the delay you need.


But really your best bet here is to have an electrician install an additional circuit for your amp.


---------------------------------------------------------


In the interim, it might be best for you to tell the Harmony to leave the TV on all the time, and then manually turn it on and off yourself.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I'm really looking forward to showing of my new D2 and RS1 over this long holiday weekend. We have 3 separate BBQ's planned, with lots of friends and family coming over.










Now I just need to decide what the best demo material will be for sound and picture quality.....


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have this ordered but haven't received it yet. Like you, I will probably go back to the 1.11e to watch these.



Since we can get 24fps from the XA2 lets at least get TrueHD in its full splendor.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm really looking forward to showing of my new D2 and RS1 over this long holiday weekend. We have 3 separate BBQ's planned, with lots of friends and family coming over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just need to decide what the best demo material will be for sound and picture quality.....



Than remove 1.12k and 1.11e.


The best demo material for large crowd is anime. I like to use Open Season and Ice Ige, happy feet. The 2 POTC should great also.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1.12 is not even a beta software and as such there is issues with it. The XA2 HDMI for both video and audio doesn't work at all. You put 1.12 in the D2 you will have to connect the XA2 directly to the display and revert to coax input for the audio.



In other words, yes it doesn't work over HDMI as I posted with regard to 1.12L


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In other words, yes it doesn't work over HDMI as I posted with regard to 1.12L



My clarification was it does not work not just for audio but for both Vidéo and Audio. I dont have 1.12L.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The best demo material for large crowd is anime. I like to use Open Season and Ice Ige, happy feet. The 2 POTC should great also.



Thanks. Since there will be young kids around too, I will probably go with something like you suggest: Open Season , Happy Feet, or Chicken Little!


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. Since there will be young kids around too, I will probably go with something like you suggest: Open Season , Happy Feet, or Chicken Little!



I don't have an HD player yet, but the Incredibles and Finding Nemo are big favorites in terms of pop factor, especially after calibration. If they are available on HD - fuggedaboudit!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My clarification was it does not work not just for audio but for both Vidéo and Audio. I dont have 1.12L.



Agree with what you stated and also true for later iteration. Folks with an XA2 should stick with 11e.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't have an HD player yet, but the Incredibles and Finding Nemo are big favorites in terms of pop factor, especially after calibration. If they are available on HD - fuggedaboudit!



They are not available yet.


----------



## JeffDL

done. I wish my S-8's would show up soon.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since we can get 24fps from the XA2 lets at least get TrueHD in its full splendor.



I agree. My boxed set was delivered just a while ago. From what I've read the picture and sound should be outstanding. I'm going to watch it more for the video/audio than content. Until I read some of the reviews I wasn't even going to buy this one.


----------



## ILJG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Guys, I would suggest you not spend a lot of time trying to make 1080p/24 output work from the D2 with any of the V1.11 software versions regardless of which display you have. You will likely just frustrate yourself.
> 
> 
> It is beginning to look like the V1.12 software may fix this, but that software is not yet ready for prime time.



This is my obligatory monthly check back here to see the status of 1080i60 --> 1080p24 status.










Will a flavor of V1.12 get this working, or is it further down the road, still?


Thanks!


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ILJG* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is my obligatory monthly check back here to see the status of 1080i60 --> 1080p24 status.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will a flavor of V1.12 get this working, or is it further down the road, still?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Further down the road. Probably much further.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Further down the road. Probably much further.



Randall, do you have some inside info on this, or is it just a guess?


Personally, I think that once they get the video timings right (apparently already known to be fixed in V1.12) the proper cadence detection and handling should not be that much harder.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randall, do you have some inside info on this, or is it just a guess?
> 
> 
> Personally, I think that once they get the video timings right (apparently already known to be fixed in V1.12) the proper cadence detection and handling should not be that much harder.
> 
> --Bob



I hope you are right Bob. This would sure be a nice thing to have working!


----------



## Fishysan

Well I think I just experienced the PS3 causing a heat problem with my D2 to the RS1 tonight. Watched a BD movie with it, and then dropped in my first game (hadn't bothered buying one since I got it a few months ago!!) and I started getting audio crackling. At first it didn't occur to me that it might be the D2 overheating but maybe something else.


Shortly there after I powered down the D2 via the remote, and then powered up again to get no sound at all. The D2 (and PS3 for that matter) was quite warm. I shut it all down for tonight and I'll have to see about adding a fan if I want to use the PS3 until they fix that issue.


Hopefully it's nothing.. I'll cry if the D2 flakes out now that I have the RS1 with it.. hehe I'm sure it's fine though and just a fluke. I've had no issues after updating to 1.11e to fix the 1080i bug.


Ciao.


----------



## earwit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishysan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I think I just experienced the PS3 causing a heat problem with my D2 to the RS1 tonight. Watched a BD movie with it, and then dropped in my first game (hadn't bothered buying one since I got it a few months ago!!) and I started getting audio crackling. At first it didn't occur to me that it might be the D2 overheating but maybe something else.
> 
> 
> Shortly there after I powered down the D2 via the remote, and then powered up again to get no sound at all. The D2 (and PS3 for that matter) was quite warm. I shut it all down for tonight and I'll have to see about adding a fan if I want to use the PS3 until they fix that issue.
> 
> 
> Hopefully it's nothing.. I'll cry if the D2 flakes out now that I have the RS1 with it.. hehe I'm sure it's fine though and just a fluke. I've had no issues after updating to 1.11e to fix the 1080i bug.
> 
> 
> Ciao.




Keep in mind if you are using the PS3, that Sony just released firmware 1.80

which is a major upgrade for HDMI video output. It has helped my PS3 work

far better with the D2..


Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. Since there will be young kids around too, I will probably go with something like you suggest: Open Season , Happy Feet, or Chicken Little!




I watch POTC with my kids yesterday. Conclusion tou should add that to the list.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *earwit* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Keep in mind if you are using the PS3, that Sony just released firmware 1.80 which is a major upgrade for HDMI video output. It has helped my PS3 work far better with the D2..



I totally concur with that. I just installed a PS3 in my room yesterday (Tolstoi's wife said I lost all credibility with that move!







)







1080p24, Media gallery... I couldn't resist and bought one. I just drank Sony's Kool-Aid!


But handshake is now rock-solid and so fast between the D2 and PS3, it's really impressive. Compared to the Toshiba HD-XA2 and the Pioneer BDP-HD1, it's a breath of fresh air...


The PS3 picture with the latest firmware is easily on par with the Pioneer BDP-HD1, and 1080p24 is rock-solid directly to the JVC HD-1/RS-1. But since I'm now using 1.11e again, I'm using 1080p60 from the PS3, and there is no differences with the BDP-HD1 picture quality with the same resolution. BUT! The PS3 is so fast and handshake is rock-solid! It takes like 10 seconds to put a Blu-ray disk in it and start the film. Just like my Oppo with DVDs. The PS3 is 20-30 seconds faster then the Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1 or Toshiba HD-XA2 for booting and starting to play a Blu-ray disk.


But PQ is just great. On the same level with the Pioneer. After watching 2 films yesterday evening, I'm so happy I bought the PS3... I was only waiting for 1080p24 before making my move...


And the Media Gallery is working alot better and faster on the PS3 then the Pioneer. Faster and easier to use.


IMHO, the latest firmware for the PS3 just made all the other Blu-ray players already on the market or coming out this summer OBSOLETE. I'm sure alot of Sony's partners making Blu-ray players are not really happy about that latest firmware for the PS3... Sony is probably paying ALOT of money to those manufacturers and "partners" to keep them "happy" after coming out with that firmware...










I'm sure Drhankz won't talk to me anymore







(and I lost all credibility with Tolstoi's wife







) but the PS3 is an awesome Blu-ray player, even if not considering the price alone!










The only "problem" is the PS3 fan noise... It's like having a plane in my rack.







It's behind a closed door, so I can't hear it, but I can only imagine what it would be like if it was directly in the room! The Pioneer BDP-HD1, fanless, was SOOOO silent...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm sure Drhankz won't talk to me anymore



How True How True How True.


My empty box for my PS3 should arrive Wednesday

so I can send it in for EXCHANGE.


I have only used mine 4 times and 4 times I had to

call Sony Tech Support. It won't run more than an

hour before CRASHING and hanging up - *DEAD*










I suppose that is OK for a GAME







QUALITY!


----------



## JeffDL

Just updated to 1.8 last night have not watched a Blu-ray yet though. Maybe pick up Apocalypto today....


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, I didn't check it. Whatever it was, it sounded great. Very impressive mixing job!



I agree, mind blowing. They don't give specs other than uncompressed 5.1.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I totally concur with that. I just installed a PS3 in my room yesterday (Tolstoi's wife said I lost all credibility with that move!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1080p24, Media gallery... I couldn't resist and bought one. I just drank Sony's Kool-Aid!
> 
> 
> But handshake is now rock-solid and so fast between the D2 and PS3, it's really impressive. Compared to the Toshiba HD-XA2 and the Pioneer BDP-HD1, it's a breath of fresh air...
> 
> 
> The PS3 picture with the latest firmware is easily on par with the Pioneer BDP-HD1, and 1080p24 is rock-solid directly to the JVC HD-1/RS-1. But since I'm now using 1.11e again, I'm using 1080p60 from the PS3, and there is no differences with the BDP-HD1 picture quality with the same resolution. BUT! The PS3 is so fast and handshake is rock-solid! It takes like 10 seconds to put a Blu-ray disk in it and start the film. Just like my Oppo with DVDs. The PS3 is 20-30 seconds faster then the Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1 or Toshiba HD-XA2 for booting and starting to play a Blu-ray disk.
> 
> 
> But PQ is just great. On the same level with the Pioneer. After watching 2 films yesterday evening, I'm so happy I bought the PS3... I was only waiting for 1080p24 before making my move...
> 
> 
> And the Media Gallery is working alot better and faster on the PS3 then the Pioneer. Faster and easier to use.
> 
> 
> IMHO, the latest firmware for the PS3 just made all the other Blu-ray players already on the market or coming out this summer OBSOLETE. I'm sure alot of Sony's partners making Blu-ray players are not really happy about that latest firmware for the PS3... Sony is probably paying ALOT of money to those manufacturers and "partners" to keep them "happy" after coming out with that firmware...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure Drhankz won't talk to me anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (and I lost all credibility with Tolstoi's wife
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but the PS3 is an awesome Blu-ray player, even if not considering the price alone!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only "problem" is the PS3 fan noise... It's like having a plane in my rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's behind a closed door, so I can't hear it, but I can only imagine what it would be like if it was directly in the room! The Pioneer BDP-HD1, fanless, was SOOOO silent...



I was impressed on first release, but the lack of integration with existing automation systems (ie needed an extra Bluetooth remote, even after I rigged up the pseudo-PS2 to PS3 minimal controls) is a non-starter.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I watch POTC with my kids yesterday. Conclusion tou should add that to the list.



That's good to know....since I just got it 2 days ago!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> The only "problem" is the PS3 fan noise... It's like having a plane in my rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's behind a closed door, so I can't hear it, but I can only imagine what it would be like if it was directly in the room! The Pioneer BDP-HD1, fanless, was SOOOO silent...




As great as the PS3 is, this is the main issue I have with it, and it was enough that I really couldn't use it as a stand alone BD player, which is why I got the Pioneer Elite HD1.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just a cautionary note for folks looking to jump into Blu-Ray right now: Be aware that the Blu-Ray world is about to undergo the long awaited transition from player profile 1.0 to player profile 1.1. This will happen before the year is out. The new player profile includes things like PIP video overlay (for producer comments for example) and in-player audio mixing, a la "advanced" content for HD-DVD. It was delayed because the authoring tools weren't quite ready and Blu-Ray had to ship product to compete with HD-DVD. Blu-Ray titles that DEPEND ON the player having the new profile will likely be on the shelves for Christmas.


The problem is that current players will likely not be upgradeable to the new profile. This is due to the extra hardware demands of the new profile (more memory for buffering things for example).


And some players that MIGHT be upgradeable might not get that upgrade if the manufacturers believe they can get you to buy a new player instead.


As usual, if you want to have fun now, go ahead and buy a player now. But expect that you may NEED to buy a NEW player before the year is out to take full advantage of the new disc titles.


My guess is that the long awaited DTS-HD MA decoders in Blu-Ray players will also be bundled by manufacturers with the 1.1 profile stuff, to help encourage sales of the 1.1 profile stuff.

--Bob


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As great as the PS3 is, this is the main issue I have with it, and it was enough that I really couldn't use it as a stand alone BD player, which is why I got the Pioneer Elite HD1.



You just need a dedicated, venitlated, closet like LEVESQUE has. I agree, it is kinda loud.


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Some TV's can be turned on via the 12 volt trigger from the Anthem. If that's the case with your TV then you can instruct the Harmony to leave the TV turned on all the time (i.e., the Harmony won't send power on/off commands to the TV) and then you can actually turn on the TV using the Anthem trigger -- either whenever the Anthem is on, or only when certain sources are selected.
> 
> 
> The three Anthem triggers have a 1/4 second delay between them, so if you put the amp on trigger 1 and the TV on trigger 3 that may give you the delay you need.
> 
> 
> But really your best bet here is to have an electrician install an additional circuit for your amp.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In the interim, it might be best for you to tell the Harmony to leave the TV on all the time, and then manually turn it on and off yourself.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I'm so pissed at my builder for putting the media outlet on the same circuit with other outlets/lights int he same room. And at my self for not getting a 20 amp outlet back there like I was thinking of getting.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was impressed on first release, but the lack of integration with existing automation systems (ie needed an extra Bluetooth remote, even after I rigged up the pseudo-PS2 to PS3 minimal controls) is a non-starter.



Absolutely agree - No IR - No RS232 - My Crestron Control

System can not control it.


Therefore I use it as a GAME Machine Only.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a cautionary note for folks looking to jump into Blu-Ray right now: Be aware that the Blu-Ray world is about to undergo the long awaited transition from player profile 1.0 to player profile 1.1. This will happen before the year is out. The new player profile includes things like PIP video overlay (for producer comments for example) and in-player audio mixing, a la "advanced" content for HD-DVD. It was delayed because the authoring tools weren't quite ready and Blu-Ray had to ship product to compete with HD-DVD. Blu-Ray titles that DEPEND ON the player having the new profile will likely be on the shelves for Christmas.
> 
> 
> The problem is that current players will likely not be upgradeable to the new profile. This is due to the extra hardware demands of the new profile (more memory for buffering things for example).
> 
> 
> And some players that MIGHT be upgradeable might not get that upgrade if the manufacturers believe they can get you to buy a new player instead.
> 
> 
> As usual, if you want to have fun now, go ahead and buy a player now. But expect that you may NEED to buy a NEW player before the year is out to take full advantage of the new disc titles.
> 
> 
> My guess is that the long awaited DTS-HD MA decoders in Blu-Ray players will also be bundled by manufacturers with the 1.1 profile stuff, to help encourage sales of the 1.1 profile stuff.
> 
> --Bob



This is a good cautionary/advisory note.


Unfortunately it looks like these new BD players won't be available until at least October.










As I understand it, the new profile will mostly impact the playability of the extra features and some menu items. You will still be able to play the movie itself with the current crop of BD players.


The only other advantage to waiting will be if they add decoding for some of the audio formats such as DTS-HD MA, as Bob mentions. Of course, as long as studios like Sony and Disney keep giving us the uncompressed PCM tracks, this doesn't matter. But there are those Fox titles that only use DTS-HD MA, and more titles are coming.


And it has been established that NONE of the current BD players (with the possible exception of the PS3, but this is still undetermined) will be capable of a FW update to ever allow decoding of DTS-HD MA. FW updates to current BD players are possible to allow decoding of TrueHD etc.


Such is life in the early adopter world....


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You just need a dedicated, venitlated, closet like LEVESQUE has. I agree, it is kinda loud.



I need a LOT of things like LEVESQUE has!


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randall, do you have some inside info on this, or is it just a guess?
> 
> 
> Personally, I think that once they get the video timings right (apparently already known to be fixed in V1.12) the proper cadence detection and handling should not be that much harder.
> 
> --Bob



No inside info. Just a guess that this is not one of their higher priorities right now. I hope you are right and I am wrong.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Blu-Ray players launched after October HAVE TO BE player profile 1.1. But that doesn't mean that 1.1 players can't be launched before that. Some players may even offer a subset of 1.1 features before that. But profile 1.0 players launched before that are not required to be upgraded.


Nobody really knows yet how much dependency the studios will build in to new, profile 1.1 titles. Obviously the hardware companies are depending upon 1.1 titles to drive sales of new 1.1 players which can only happen if 1.1 titles include things that people want to play, which don't play correctly on 1.0 players. In any event, current 1.0 titles will play in both styles of player.

--Bob


----------



## randman

I bought my PS3 last December '06 and have been very happy with it. At the time I purchased it, I compared it with other Blu-Ray players available at the time and thought it was the best deal, in terms of price (almost half the price of Blu-Ray players), features and functionality; it also had the greatest potential for upgradeability via firmware upgrades. I figured it is a good choice as a Blu-Ray player, until things settle down somewhat in the future, given how fast Blu-Ray and HD-DVD technology is changing now. And, if Blu-Ray loses out in the High-def war (which I don't think it will), the PS3 still makes a nice gaming machine.


FYI, earlier (last December/January), I was experiencing "freezing/hang" problems, in which the PS3 would stop playing the Blu-Ray disc. It didn't hang completely, since I can still bring up the PS3 menu, but it just stopped playing the disk. I no longer have this problem. I'm not sure what fixed it. I had upgraded to a newer firmware, and at the same time changed a video-related setting from "automatic" to another mode (don't recall off the top of my head what the non-auto setting is called). Anyway, now the PS3 is rock-solid for me.


I do agree that not having a true IR remote is a pain. I am using the PS2->PS3 remote solution that has been documented elsewhere, and surprisingly, other than power on and power off, the PS2->PS3 remote solution gives everything I normally need. I have programmed the necessary commands into my Pronto TSU7000 remote. Yes, having power on/off remote commands would be nice, but it really isn't as big a deal as one would think for movie watching. You have to get off the couch/chair and insert the disk and eject it anyway. Given the popularity of the PS3 (at least relative to the typical high-end home theater component), I wouldn't be surprised if Sony or a 3rd party company will come with a USB IR receiver for the PS3.


I'm currently at firmware 1.70. I haven't upgraded to 1.80 yet. I've read reports in other threads that the fan is a bit louder in 1.80 than previous firmware.


Anyway, the PS3 has worked flawlessly with my D2 (using HDMI!), and am very happy with it.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> IThe PS3 picture with the latest firmware is easily on par with the Pioneer BDP-HD1, and 1080p24 is rock-solid directly to the JVC HD-1/RS-1. But since I'm now using 1.11e again, I'm using 1080p60 from the PS3, and there is no differences with the BDP-HD1 picture quality with the same resolution.



Can you elaborate on this a little LEvesque? I just bought a PS3 myself and am wondering what to send to a 720p BenQ 8720. Any suggestions on what to set the PS3/D2 to for an optimal picture? What is it about 1.11e that had you alter your setting?


I am allowing 1080p to go to the D2 because my thinking was that I would rather the D2 scale down than the PS3.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you elaborate on this a little LEvesque? I just bought a PS3 myself and am wondering what to send to a 720p BenQ 8720. Any suggestions on what to set the PS3/D2 to for an optimal picture? What is it about 1.11e that had you alter your setting?
> 
> 
> I am allowing 1080p to go to the D2 because my thinking was that I would rather the D2 scale down than the PS3.



Maybe it is time to think about upgrading your PJ.


You are MISSING a lot!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you elaborate on this a little LEvesque? I just bought a PS3 myself and am wondering what to send to a 720p BenQ 8720. Any suggestions on what to set the PS3/D2 to for an optimal picture? What is it about 1.11e that had you alter your setting?
> 
> 
> I am allowing 1080p to go to the D2 because my thinking was that I would rather the D2 scale down than the PS3.



I think your thinking is correct. Send 1080p from the PS3 to the D2, and set the D2 to send 720p to your pj.


I would also try sending 1080p/24 to the D2 and see how it handles that. Theoretically this would be best, since the disc is encoded at 1080p/24 the PS3 would be acting as a transport without doing any processing of its own (in theory anyway).


----------



## hifisponge

I read in the Home Theater Mag review that the Statement gear comes in a 17" wide option (upon special request). Any of the owners here have one of these? If yes, please post pics. It will be a stretch to fit the standard 19.25" model into my equipment cabinet.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe it is time to think about upgrading your PJ.
> 
> 
> You are MISSING a lot!



You are right I am overdue!








I'm gonna hold out for 120hz and deep color though, just in case.











Rob,

Thanks for the vote of confidence, I picked up Casino Royale last night so i'll do some testing today with the D2 and 1080p24sf.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are right I am overdue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna hold out for 120hz and deep color though, just in case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> Thanks for the vote of confidence, I picked up Casino Royale last night so i'll do some testing today with the D2 and 1080p24sf.



Where are you getting 1080p24sf?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are right I am overdue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna hold out for 120hz and deep color though, just in case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> Thanks for the vote of confidence, I picked up Casino Royale last night so i'll do some testing today with the D2 and 1080p24sf.



1) That will be a VERY Long Wait. Your Choice.


2) Professional Testing that has been done by the Studios

and equipment Manufacturers with Humans - has not yet

found the Human that can SEE the difference.


Test Equipment is the only thing that can see the difference.


Therefore - you won't be seeing Movies and equipment rushing to market.


As for Rob's Suggestion - In THEORY he is right.


However the results will probably be not very good.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where are you getting 1080p24sf?



I think he means fps


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think he means fps



Yes youre right, sorry.


I was under the impression that the Sony Pearl replacement would have 120hz? (Deep color is not as much of a big deal for me) Not to mention a lower price next year.


If you keep up this logic i'll have an RS1 here next week!











Incidentally, can i get the D2 to output 720p/72 from a 1080p24 signal? Would that eliminate judder?


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think he means fps



Just as an aside, 1080p24sf output capability would be a nice addition for the D2/AVM50. It seems to be a way to get judder-free playback which has already "had the kinks worked out" so to speak. Both the Ruby and Pearl take 1080p24sf, I don't know about the RS1.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Incidentally, can i get the D2 to output 720p/72 from a 1080p24 signal? Would that eliminate judder?



Yes, in theory. You should also be able to do the same thing from any interlaced film source (480i or 1080i) but it seems these issues are still being worked out (for the D2/AVM50 as well as other scalers out there).


----------



## earwit

The PS3 1.80 firmware update, just confirms how software based everything is

with HDMI and all these frustrating HDMI-HDCP problems..


I currently am using 1.11e, and still have problems with resolutions over 720P.

After having such a positive experience with the PS3 1.80 firmware upgrade, I

have re-newed hope that future software releases from Anthem, will correct

the many nagging HDMI problems with the D2 and hopefully get the most out of the Gennum processor .



Bob..


----------



## Fishysan

Hey Folks,


I've been using the PS3 as my BD player for some time, direct to the RS1 via switching, then with the D2 with my Cinema500 while my RS1 was away, and now finally have PS3 -> D2 -> RS1.


The 500 was only 720p out of the D2. So I don't know if it's a combination of PS3 v1.8 24p out into the D2 now driving 1080p60 also (vs. 720p) that made it overheat if that was the problem. I hope it is!! I didn't have a chance to use it again yesterday, so now that it's raining out, I'm about to fire it all up and play.

(edit - D2 is running 1.11e)


The D2 was quite warm, so I'm adding a 120mm pc fan overtop to help circulation. The PS3 is on the shelf above, and it's also dumping a lot of heat to the back - the drywall was warm after that movie!







I'm going to add a baffle on it to redirect the air upwards away from the equipment also to see if that helps.


I had no issues with the 8300HD -> D2 -> RS1 so I figured it was a heat issue due to warmer weather and the PS3 giving it a workout with the HDMI 1.3 biz and 108024p.


Glad to see Levesque you like the PS3 quality - it's nice too. Are you forcing it to use RGB extended? (that's how I've got it set ATM).


I've got the PS3 going with the PS2->PS3 ir hack with a repeater so it's all hidden and as randman mentioned, it works nicely because you have to go insert the disc to watch it and with auto play on, you insert a BD with it off it powers up and plays it very quickly, then you go over to eject & power off. Done. It cost me like 25$CAN for the bits. (15$ RadioShack for the USB and 9$ EB used for the ir/remote) So I'm happy with the way I've programmed my MX-850 stuff with it. No RS232 of course...










Cheers.


----------



## BillW

Here is a picture of my 17" D2. Below is Pioneer 79avi and above is the Roku 2000.


----------



## Fishysan

*looks around wondering where the picture is*


----------



## Fishysan

Ok, so I hooked up a temporary supply for a fan;
http://www.arctic-cooling.com/fans2....4&data=2&disc= 


I noticed though that the "heavy" trigger on the D2 is 200ma rated.


There's also the 12v supply for the ir block - which I can't find a rating for in the manual, but it's got to be more than 200ma, etc. I'm sure.


Is anyone powering a fan (such as the 150ma one above) on one of the ports of the D2 for cooling? It's a small load comparatively..


Thanks!



Just curious - I could send Anthem an email as I wouldn't want that to be an issue.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> Thanks for the vote of confidence, I picked up Casino Royale last night so i'll do some testing today with the D2 and 1080p24



No problem, and let us know how it goes.


As an aside, you still get my vote for best user name _ever_!


----------



## BillW

The picture didn't link the first time. Here it is again...


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Bill, that pic is a bit small. Is the 17" model just missing the "wings"?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just as an aside, 1080p24sf output capability would be a nice addition for the D2/AVM50.



I agree - but I doubt we will see it.


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bill, that pic is a bit small. Is the 17" model just missing the "wings"?




Sorry for the small pic, I couldn't figure out how to get it to accept a larger file and on Mem day weekend gave up.


Exactly. When you order one expect to wait 6 weeks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry for the small pic, I couldn't figure out how to get it to accept a larger file and on Mem day weekend gave up.
> 
> 
> Exactly. When you order one expect to wait 6 weeks.



AVS limits the file size.


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry for the small pic, I couldn't figure out how to get it to accept a larger file and on Mem day weekend gave up.
> 
> 
> Exactly. When you order one expect to wait 6 weeks.



Thanks a ton for the shot of your 17" D2. Wasn't sure if anyone would bite on my request.


If you get around to it, I would like to see a larger pic.


You can upload the pic to a hosting site like www.photobucket.com and then insert the image into the body of the post using the "insert image" button at the top of the box when writing your post. (The insert image button has what looks like a picture of the sun coming up over some mountains on it.)


----------



## AnthemAVM

Question for those running a Denon 3910 using 6 Channel Audio cables.


I have my Denon 3910 set up with a HDMI cable and then a 6 Channel Audio Cables to the D2. I have in the setup Audio In: Dig HDMI, is that correct for 6 Channel Audio Cables.


I am playing the Eagles Surround Sound DVD, and supurised that I am getting sound from my L,R, Side, Sub and Rears, but no center. Is that correct?


Michael


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question for those running a Denon 3910 using 6 Channel Audio cables.
> 
> 
> I have my Denon 3910 set up with a HDMI cable and then a 6 Channel Audio Cables to the D2. I have in the setup Audio In: Dig HDMI, is that correct for 6 Channel Audio Cables.
> 
> 
> I am playing the Eagles Surround Sound DVD, and supurised that I am getting sound from my L,R, Side, Sub and Rears, but no center. Is that correct?
> 
> 
> Michael



To use the 6-ch analog inputs of the D2 you have to select the 6-CH input source of the D2. I.e., your can't use the 6 channel analog audio input sockets with any other D2 input source selected such as DVD1.


In Setup / Source Select for the 6-CH input, you can then specify Audio In=Analog DSP or Analog Direct. Analog DSP means the 6 channel input gets digitized and processed. [By default the D2 digitizes the 6 channel input at 96KHz. This can be changed in the Setup / ADC menu.]


Analog Direct means the 6 channel input gets passed to the output without being either digitized or processed. For example, all LFE channel audio goes to the subwoofer (only), but no audio is steered to the subwoofer from any of the main channels even if their speakers are set to "Small". [So speaker configuration processing, such as bass steering, would need to be done in the player.]


In Setup / Source Select for the 6-CH input, you can also specify an HDMI socket to send video to the scaler. If you ALSO set Audio In=DIG HDMI, and Auto Dig=ON, then the D2's 6-CH input source will automatically use digital audio from the HDMI input if it detects any, otherwise it will use Analog DSP (processing) of the 6 channel analog input sockets. [Analog Direct mode is not available if you are using Auto Dig=ON.]

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fishysan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Glad to see Levesque you like the PS3 quality - it's nice too. Are you forcing it to use RGB extended? (that's how I've got it set ATM).



After reading what S. Spears wrote, I'm using:


PS3: Output - YCbCr, RGB - Limit (not full...), Super White - On

D2: YCbCr 4:4:4 out

JVC HD-1: Black level normal, HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4


For those interested, there is a guy in the projector section of AVS that just post a link to the firmware upgrade with clear and easy instructions for the RS-1/HD-1 from 059 (first firmware) to 061, fixing the colorspace problems. To perform the upgrade, we can use the same 9 pin to 9 pin serial cable we use to upgrade the firmware for the D2.










Link to RS-1/HD1 firmware:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post10641059 


Here's what S. Spears did say about firmware 1.8 for the PS3:


"So I just tested RGB @ full and you want to leave it as limit, unless you like to increase banding.


RGB @ Limit - Levels stay where they are. Y 1, CbCr 128 will be RGB 1, 1, 1 when done.

RGB @ Full - Levels get compressed. Y 1, CbCr 128 will be RGB 16, 16, 16 when done. (Best guess based on looking at image)

Full is different than the usual expansion where Y 16, CbCr 128 becomes RGB 0, 0, 0.


The best video quality is:


Output - YCbCr

RGB - Limit

Super White - On


BTB is still passed when RGB is set to limit, just bring brightness up to see it. Then turn brightness back down where it belongs. When you set brightness based on RGB limit and then switch to RGB full, you will see the BTB stripe. This is because you just remapped Y 7, CbCr 128 (the BTB stripe) to a much higher value. "


----------



## soapman72

Hi Guys,



I haven't been on in a while, but I am still having issues with the component input of my AVM 50. I was, and still am experiancing brief blue screens while watching a DVD if I use the Sony Dvd player hooked to the component input. I get no blue screens while watching the Pioneer player over HDMI.


Some other odd behavior that I noticed is that I get extreme jagged lines on the edges of objects when watching the Sony over component. I didn't remember the Sony looking that way when it was connected directly to the display, so I bypassed the Anthem, and sure enough, no jaggies. Just for fun, I tried the pioneer, and same behavior.


By now, my little brain is in gear and workin, so I tried switching the output of the pioneer to progressive, since it was putting out 480i , and the jagged edges were gone!


I am hoping the poor de-interlacing of the component sources (and the blue screens) are software related, so that I dont have to send the AVM 50 in for service.


Here is where I am hoping someone can help me. I am running the 1.11 software that came with the AVM 50, but now want to try one of the beta software versions. Does anyone have one of the latest versions (if you are happy with the stability) that you would be willing to send to me. I am off of work tomorrow, and would like to spend some time trying to get this thing fixed.

Frank @ anthem offered to send me the beta software on a couple of occasions, but I had been wary of upgrading. I do have the proper cable, though, and am hoping for an easy fix for this problem.


Sorry for the long post, and thanks!


Sean


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soapman72* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't been on in a while, but I am still having issues with the component input of my AVM 50. I was, and still am experiancing brief blue screens while watching a DVD if I use the Sony Dvd player hooked to the component input. I get no blue screens while watching the Pioneer player over HDMI.
> 
> 
> Some other odd behavior that I noticed is that I get extreme jagged lines on the edges of objects when watching the Sony over component. I didn't remember the Sony looking that way when it was connected directly to the display, so I bypassed the Anthem, and sure enough, no jaggies. Just for fun, I tried the pioneer, and same behavior.
> 
> 
> By now, my little brain is in gear and workin, so I tried switching the output of the pioneer to progressive, since it was putting out 480i , and the jagged edges were gone!
> 
> 
> I am hoping the poor de-interlacing of the component sources (and the blue screens) are software related, so that I dont have to send the AVM 50 in for service.
> 
> 
> Here is where I am hoping someone can help me. I am running the 1.11 software that came with the AVM 50, but now want to try one of the beta software versions. Does anyone have one of the latest versions (if you are happy with the stability) that you would be willing to send to me. I am off of work tomorrow, and would like to spend some time trying to get this thing fixed.
> 
> Frank @ anthem offered to send me the beta software on a couple of occasions, but I had been wary of upgrading. I do have the proper cable, though, and am hoping for an easy fix for this problem.
> 
> 
> Sorry for the long post, and thanks!
> 
> 
> Sean



There have been a few rare reports of the Anthem not properly recognizing the resolution of a Component 480i input signal. The fact that you are seeing tearing or jaggies with Component 480i input but have no problem with Component 480p input suggests to me that you may have been bitten by this.


One easy test is to send Component 480i to the Anthem (so that you see the video problem) and then check the Video Source Adjust / Info panel (under the "7" key on the remote) to see whether it shows the input resolution as Component 480x720i (correct) or some other value -- most often Component 480x1440i (incorrect). If the Anthem is showing the incorrect value then you will definitely see an improvement with one of the test software versions. Version V1.11g has been the one that's reported to work best for people with Component video problems.

--Bob


----------



## Fishysan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After reading what S. Spears wrote, I'm using:
> 
> 
> PS3: Output - YCbCr, RGB - Limit (not full...), Super White - On
> 
> D2: YCbCr 4:4:4 out
> 
> JVC HD-1: Black level normal, HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4



Cool thanks! I hadn't calibrated or futzed much but I did find some of what I watched a bit washed - that would explain it. Still have some tweaking to do.


Interesting that you are using 4:4:4 out - I thought I'd use that too, but was wondering after having read stuff in the past about the bandwidth and not leaving anything for the RS1 side to upsample the video or something. Can't remember the details and it might be smoke? dunno..


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There have been a few rare reports of the Anthem not properly recognizing the resolution of a Component 480i input signal. The fact that you are seeing tearing or jaggies with Component 480i input but have no problem with Component 480p input suggests to me that you may have been bitten by this.
> 
> 
> One easy test is to send Component 480i to the Anthem (so that you see the video problem) and then check the Video Source Adjust / Info panel (under the "7" key on the remote) to see whether it shows the input resolution as Component 480x720i (correct) or some other value -- most often Component 480x1440i (incorrect). If the Anthem is showing the incorrect value then you will definitely see an improvement with one of the test software versions. Version V1.11g has been the one that's reported to work best for people with Component video problems.
> 
> --Bob





Bob,


You are a genius! Yes, that is exactly what the resolution says (1440x480i), while all other sources (HDMI) are reported correctly.


Now, would you be willing to email me 1.11g if you have it? If you could, I would be in your debt. If i am not already pushing my luck, what is the proper way to update the software? I figure I need to write down all my settings, and do a reset to factory settings, but what exactly is the proceedure?


I ran a video board questioner that Frank sent me from anthem, but I'm guessing this is slightly more involved. Thanks again, at least I am feeling like this problem is software, not hardware related. If you want to email it to me, my email address is [email protected] . Thanks!


Sean


----------



## FilmMixer

Bob's next post was way better than mine!!!


EDIT: Deleted lame directions


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soapman72* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> You are a genius! Yes, that is exactly what the resolution says (1440x480i), while all other sources (HDMI) are reported correctly.
> 
> 
> Now, would you be willing to email me 1.11g if you have it? If you could, I would be in your debt. If i am not already pushing my luck, what is the proper way to update the software? I figure I need to write down all my settings, and do a reset to factory settings, but what exactly is the proceedure?
> 
> 
> I ran a video board questioner that Frank sent me from anthem, but I'm guessing this is slightly more involved. Thanks again, at least I am feeling like this problem is software, not hardware related. If you want to email it to me, my email address is [email protected] . Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sean



I don't have any of the AVM50 software (it's a different build than the D2 software since the hardware is different), and in fact I'm still on original D2 V1.11 myself.


Anthem tech support will e-mail the version you need to you if you don't get it sooner. In any event, they'd likely appreciate knowing that you are doing an update so that they can track which versions are fixing which problems for which people.


=============================================

WARNING: For folks tempted to do an upgrade using the original V1.11 software that is available for download from the Anthem web site, be aware that some small percentage of owners have had SIGNFICANT problems with this install due to issues with the installer application itself (improper timings in the way it talks to the Anthem from some Windows computers). The install may not work, and in extreme cases the install may leave the Anthem in a state that is tricky to recover from. These problems were fixed by Anthem in roughly the V1.11c software, but for reasons known only to them they've left the original V1.11 software up on the web site. The test software versions that Anthem tech support emails to people, V1.11e and etc., do not raise these concerns.


[Note that if you do the original V1.11 install anyway, and it completes normally without complaint then you are golden. It worked just fine for you and you don't have to worry about what I just said. If the install of the original V1.11 fails, it might very well work using a different computer. It is OK to retry the install on top of the failed version.]


Anthem is telling folks that the next significant update of its software is only a few weeks away. If you don't have a pressing need to install new software right now, my recommendation would be that you wait for that release RATHER THAN installing the original V1.11 software from the Anthem web site. If you DO have a pressing need, I suggest you contact Anthem tech support, and get one of the test software versions from them to use instead of the original V1.11 from the web site. The V1.11e test software is (as of today) the version reported here as having the fewest issues.

=============================================


Here is the belt & suspenders approach to doing the update:


* Write down all your settings that you can't simpy remember. Be sure to note both your Setup menu settings and your Video Source Adjust settings for each input.


* Turn off your system.


* Turn off the Anthem's back panel power switch.


* Physically disconnect any HDMI source devices and also your HDMI display from wall power unless you are ABSOLUTELY 100% SURE that they don't power their HDMI socket when they are in their Off/Standby mode. Do not skip this step. The software install will fail if there are any live HDMI connections to the Anthem, and quite a few HDMI devices leave their HDMI sockets powered even though the device itself appears to be turned off.


* Hook up a correct serial cable between the back of the Anthem and the Windows computer you intend to use. You want a "straight through" cable (pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9), not the identical looking cable, sometimes called a "null modem" cable, that swaps some wires. It is best to use a computer with a real serial port instead of a USB/serial adapter. If you DO use a USB/Serial adapter, you may need to turn on "Xon/Xoff" flow control to get it to work correctly.


* Turn on the back panel power switch of the Anthem. Leave all other devices off.


* Use the Anthem Setup Editor application to save your Setup menu settings to a PC file. The application will turn the Anthem on itself as necessary. Use the latest version of the Setup Editor that you have -- the one that came with the new software from Anthem if you have it, otherwise at the very least the V1.10 software version. Exit that application.


PLEASE NOTE: Skip the next step if your current software is older than V1.04. Live Video Settings Editor was introduced as part of the V1.04 software, and it doesn't function if your Anthem is currently running software older than that. Just write down your Video Source Adjust settings manually.


* If you have the V1.11g version (or later) of the Live Video Settings Editor application, use it to save your Video Source Adjust menu settings -- for all input sources -- to a file on the PC. If you have an older version you will need to depend upon the settings your wrote down. Exit that application.


* TIME OUT! Think carefully. Have you written down ALL of the Anthem settings you need to write down? OK, then proceed.


* Power on the Anthem. Go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and do a Reload Factory Defaults. This will cause you to lose your video display but you can still see what's going on using the Anthem's front panel display. When the reload finishes, Back out of the Setup menu and power off the Anthem normally. Leave the back panel switch of the Anthem in the ON position.


* Run the software installer application. It will turn the Anthem on and off itself as necessary during the process. Typically the process will take about 15 minutes including the verification passes. *DO NOT INTERRUPT THE INSTALL* Make sure your computer won't go "to sleep" for example, during the install.


* If the install fails with an error, it is safe to try it again. Contact Anthem if you can't get it to install (rare with the current versions).


* Once the install completes normally, turn on the Anthem and, using the front panel display and the pictures of the menus in your user's manual to keep from getting lost, go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and do a Reload Factory Defaults AGAIN. These will, of course, be the defaults for the new software you just installed. Back out of that and turn off the Anthem.


* Using the Anthem Setup Editor application, restore your Setup menu settings to the Anthem from the PC file where you saved them. Exit that application.


* If you have the V1.11g (or later) version of the Live Video Settings Editor application, use it to restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings for all input sources from the PC file where you saved them. Exit that application. Turn off the Anthem.


* Power off the Anthem using the back panel switch. Disconnect the serial cable. Plug your HDMI sources and HDMI display back into wall power.


PLEASE NOTE: If you are upgrading from a software version older than V1.06, be aware that Anthem changed the list of available video output resolutions in V1.06. Your old video output resolution setting will likely not restore automatically. This means you will likely need to go into Setup / Video Output and manually correct your video output resolution to get your display live again.


* Power up your system. You should have a good display. If you don't have a display for any reason, remember that you can examine/correct Setup menu settings using the Anthem's front panel display.


* Go through all of your Setup menu settings and compare them to the values you wrote down. In particular, go to each overlayed device you are *NOT* using (i.e., DVD2 or DVD3 or whatever) and "disable" it in the first line of it's Setup / Source Select menu page.


* For each input (normal or overlayed) you ARE using, start video from that device, select it as the Anthem input, and bring up the Video Source Adjust menu for it and verify any settings you want in there. Double check the Video Source Adjust / Info panel to be sure the input and output signals are reporting what they should be reporting.


-----------------------------------------------------------------


In reality the menu settings will likely survive just fine if you install the new software on top of the old without going through all the steps of saving settings, reloading factory defaults and etc. But the process above is the SAFEST approach.

--Bob


----------



## soapman72

Bob,



Thanks for the detailed reply. I'm sure it will come in handy. If anyone else has the 1.11g software update for the AVM 50, please let me know. It would be great to have the whole day tomorrow to mess around with it.


Have a great memorial day everyone!



Sean


----------



## shah993

Bob,

Thanks for the detailed instructions.I have been very hesitant to do an upgrade for fear of messing it up.Till yesterday I was on the original build 1.0.I did the upgrade successfully!!.The only thing I screwed up was saving my settings on the live video software.I did not understand how to save the settings.I kept hitting the "GET" button thinking it would get my settings and it kept telling me that it is communicating with the D2.Finally I just went ahead and did the upgrade anyway.No problems.It saved my settings any way.Next project is learning how to program the MX 3000!







.


----------



## nine ball

I am just about to replace the bulb in my Ruby.....1300 hours. The performance is such that the little voice in your head telling you that the quality is diminishing is drowned out by the audience demanding a brighter pic. I have been holding out for the next full production release for the D2. I am currently running 1.10 and everything sort of works, sort of. I have been following this thread religiously and have to admit that I would NOT feel confident in choosing the best current version to upgrade to as it is very very dependent on the equipment mix. It seems like it is taking forever to finalize the next release. If I list the primary elements in my system I wonder if there is any advice on the best choice or at worst any versions I should avoid.


Toshiba Xa2 ver 1.6 running HDMI

Moto 8412 COGECO cable HDMI

Sat (bell expressvu 6100) HDMI

Sony ES777 Mega changer coupled with Escient ES D1 ver 4.2.xx Component

Oppo 970 480i over HDMI (latest version)

HP z558 entertainment center (XP proffesional) component

Statement D2 ver 1.10 HDMI 1080p/60 to proj

Sony (Ruby) 1080p/60


Thanks to anyone with suggestions other than ver 1.10


Peter


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I totally concur with that. I just installed a PS3 in my room yesterday (Tolstoi's wife said I lost all credibility with that move!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1080p24, Media gallery... I couldn't resist and bought one. I just drank Sony's Kool-Aid!
> 
> 
> But handshake is now rock-solid and so fast between the D2 and PS3, it's really impressive. Compared to the Toshiba HD-XA2 and the Pioneer BDP-HD1, it's a breath of fresh air...
> 
> 
> The PS3 picture with the latest firmware is easily on par with the Pioneer BDP-HD1, and 1080p24 is rock-solid directly to the JVC HD-1/RS-1. But since I'm now using 1.11e again, I'm using 1080p60 from the PS3, and there is no differences with the BDP-HD1 picture quality with the same resolution. BUT! The PS3 is so fast and handshake is rock-solid! It takes like 10 seconds to put a Blu-ray disk in it and start the film. Just like my Oppo with DVDs. The PS3 is 20-30 seconds faster then the Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1 or Toshiba HD-XA2 for booting and starting to play a Blu-ray disk.
> 
> 
> But PQ is just great. On the same level with the Pioneer. After watching 2 films yesterday evening, I'm so happy I bought the PS3... I was only waiting for 1080p24 before making my move...
> 
> 
> And the Media Gallery is working alot better and faster on the PS3 then the Pioneer. Faster and easier to use.
> 
> 
> IMHO, the latest firmware for the PS3 just made all the other Blu-ray players already on the market or coming out this summer OBSOLETE. I'm sure alot of Sony's partners making Blu-ray players are not really happy about that latest firmware for the PS3... Sony is probably paying ALOT of money to those manufacturers and "partners" to keep them "happy" after coming out with that firmware...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure Drhankz won't talk to me anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (and I lost all credibility with Tolstoi's wife
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but the PS3 is an awesome Blu-ray player, even if not considering the price alone!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only "problem" is the PS3 fan noise... It's like having a plane in my rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's behind a closed door, so I can't hear it, but I can only imagine what it would be like if it was directly in the room! The Pioneer BDP-HD1, fanless, was SOOOO silent...



II still can't believe LEVESQUE is using a game console to drive is HT. Years of learning and evolution to end-up using a Game Console.










Seriously the main 4 reasons I discarded the PS3 as a Blu-Ray before picking the BPD-HD1 where:


1) Too loud for my HT. I don't have a dedicated HT and unless I move this will not change.

2) At home we are already fighting to choose a movie adding game capability on the BR player would significantly increase the issue.

3) No 24 FPS

4) Poor DVD transport/Player


Issues 3) and 4) where resolved by Sony through firmware release but issue 1) and 2) are still there.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am just about to replace the bulb in my Ruby.....1300 hours. The performance is such that the little voice in your head telling you that the quality is diminishing is drowned out by the audience demanding a brighter pic. I have been holding out for the next full production release for the D2. I am currently running 1.10 and everything sort of works, sort of. I have been following this thread religiously and have to admit that I would NOT feel confident in choosing the best current version to upgrade to as it is very very dependent on the equipment mix. It seems like it is taking forever to finalize the next release. If I list the primary elements in my system I wonder if there is any advice on the best choice or at worst any versions I should avoid.
> 
> 
> Toshiba Xa2 ver 1.6 running HDMI
> 
> Moto 8412 COGECO cable HDMI
> 
> Sat (bell expressvu 6100) HDMI
> 
> Sony ES777 Mega changer coupled with Escient ES D1 ver 4.2.xx Component
> 
> Oppo 970 480i over HDMI (latest version)
> 
> HP z558 entertainment center (XP proffesional) component
> 
> Statement D2 ver 1.10 HDMI 1080p/60 to proj
> 
> Sony (Ruby) 1080p/60
> 
> 
> Thanks to anyone with suggestions other than ver 1.10
> 
> 
> Peter




Your best bet is 1.11e.


----------



## Fishysan

Heehee


Well unfortunately devices seem noiser today. I don't recall the PS3 being much noisier than the A2 which is noisy too.. but quieter than the stupid 360 DVD and such. Too bad. Mind you I've only watched one movie with the v1.8 which is reported to be noisier now. But I'm not convinced it will be noisier on just BD movies compared to before - I can see it though for upscaling and the like as it's using more cells.


As for your second point, having no games to put in it, and hiding the controller will work.







hehe I didn't have a game for the PS3 for months (play 360) but I did download demos out of curiosity. I broke that rule recently and bought Motostorm.


I'd like to get the 24p working with it though the D2 to the RS1 though. Hmmm.


Cheers!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> II still can't believe LEVESQUE is using a game console to drive is HT. Years of learning and evolution to end-up using a Game Console.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously the main 4 reasons I discarded the PS3 as a Blu-Ray before picking the BPD-HD1 where:
> 
> 
> 1) Too loud for my HT. I don't have a dedicated HT and unless I move this will not change.
> 
> 2) At home we are already fighting to choose a movie adding game capability on the BR player would significantly increase the issue.
> 
> 3) No 24 FPS
> 
> 4) Poor DVD transport/Player
> 
> 
> Issues 3) and 4) where resolved by Sony through firmware release but issue 1) and 2) are still there.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for the detailed instructions.I have been very hesitant to do an upgrade for fear of messing it up.Till yesterday I was on the original build 1.0.I did the upgrade successfully!!.The only thing I screwed up was saving my settings on the live video software.I did not understand how to save the settings.I kept hitting the "GET" button thinking it would get my settings and it kept telling me that it is communicating with the D2.Finally I just went ahead and did the upgrade anyway.No problems.It saved my settings any way.Next project is learning how to program the MX 3000!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



I'm glad it went smoothly for you!


There are three different applications that are part of the install kit. There's the installer application itself of course, specific to the version of the software you are trying to install. Then there's the Setup Editor, which can be used to save the Setup menu settings to a PC file and to restore them afterwards. And finally there's the Live Video Settings Editor which is primarily used to configure Video Source Adjust settings on the Anthem while you are watching programs to see the results. In the V1.10 software and later Live Video Settings Editor provides significant additional adjustment features over and above what you can do using the Anthem's own, internal, Video Source Adjust menus: Additional video output resolutions, custom video output resolutions, and custom Gamma correction curves for example.


Now, the V1.11g version of Live Video Settings Editor added the ability to save all the Video Source Adjust settings for all sources at one time to a PC file, and to restore them to the Anthem afterwards. So if you were using an earlier version of that application, you wouldn't be able to do this easily.


Again, all the Setup menu settings and Video Source Adjust settings SHOULD survive a software upgrade just fine if you simply install the software on top of them (without first saving them to the PC, and without erasing them yourself via Reload Factory Defaults). But some software upgrades seem to go more smoothly if you go through the extra steps to put the machine into a known state of settings.


======================================

EDITED TO ADD: Ah! I see you were upgrading from the V1.0 software. That's why Live Video Settings Editor didn't work for you to save Video Source Adjust menu settings. Live Video Settings Editor was introduced as part of the V1.04 software. It doesn't talk to Anthems with software older than that. If your software is older than V1.04, just use the Setup Editor application (the newest version you have) to save Setup menu settings, and just write down your Video Source Adjust settings manually. I've edited the instructions post above to clarify this.

======================================



WARNING: For folks tempted to do an upgrade using the original V1.11 software that is available for download from the Anthem web site, be aware that some small percentage of owners have had SIGNFICANT problems with this install due to issues with the installer application itself (improper timings in the way it talks to the Anthem from some Windows computers). The install may not work, and in extreme cases the install may leave the Anthem in a state that is tricky to recover from. These problems were fixed by Anthem in roughly the V1.11c software, but for reasons known only to them they've left the original V1.11 software up on the web site. The test software versions that Anthem tech support emails to people, V1.11e and etc., do not raise these concerns.


[Note that if you do the original V1.11 install anyway, and it completes normally without complaint then you are golden. It worked just fine for you and you don't have to worry about what I just said.]


Anthem is telling folks that the next significant update of its software is only a few weeks away. If you don't have a pressing need to install new software right now, my recommendation would be that you wait for that release RATHER THAN installing the original V1.11 software from the Anthem web site. If you DO have a pressing need, I suggest you contact Anthem tech support, and get one of the test software versions from them to use instead of the originall V1.11 from the web site. The V1.11e test software is the version reported here as having the fewest issues.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am just about to replace the bulb in my Ruby.....1300 hours. The performance is such that the little voice in your head telling you that the quality is diminishing is drowned out by the audience demanding a brighter pic. I have been holding out for the next full production release for the D2. I am currently running 1.10 and everything sort of works, sort of. I have been following this thread religiously and have to admit that I would NOT feel confident in choosing the best current version to upgrade to as it is very very dependent on the equipment mix. It seems like it is taking forever to finalize the next release. If I list the primary elements in my system I wonder if there is any advice on the best choice or at worst any versions I should avoid.
> 
> 
> Toshiba Xa2 ver 1.6 running HDMI
> 
> Moto 8412 COGECO cable HDMI
> 
> Sat (bell expressvu 6100) HDMI
> 
> Sony ES777 Mega changer coupled with Escient ES D1 ver 4.2.xx Component
> 
> Oppo 970 480i over HDMI (latest version)
> 
> HP z558 entertainment center (XP proffesional) component
> 
> Statement D2 ver 1.10 HDMI 1080p/60 to proj
> 
> Sony (Ruby) 1080p/60
> 
> 
> Thanks to anyone with suggestions other than ver 1.10
> 
> 
> Peter



Since you have an XA2, the best software version for you right now is V1.11e. It has significant bug fixes over the V1.10 you are using now, and I know of no significant issues related to your mix of devices. The V1.11g version has a few more Component video fixes but is not good for XA2 owners.


However, Anthem is telling folks that the next significant software release will be out in just a few weeks. This version (test software V1.12k and above) includes A COMPLETE REWRITE of the HDMI portion of the software. That's what's been the holdup apparently. It's also been reported here that they've made real advances in it's 1080p/24 implemention. That version is in very limited release right now. If I were in your shoes, and having no dramatic problems with the current V1.10, I'd wait for that next version.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since you have an XA2, the best software version for you right now is V1.11e. It has significant bug fixes over the V1.10 you are using now, and I know of no significant issues related to your mix of devices. The V1.11g version has a few more Component video fixes but is not good for XA2 owners.
> 
> 
> However, Anthem is telling folks that the next significant software release will be out in just a few weeks. This version (test software V1.12k and above) includes A COMPLETE REWRITE of the HDMI portion of the software. That's what's been the holdup apparently. It's also been reported here that they've made real advances in it's 1080p/24 implemention. That version is in very limited release right now. If I were in your shoes, and having no dramatic problems with the current V1.10, I'd wait for that next version.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I can't thank you enough for your response........as usual your balanced view prevails.


Peter


----------



## Fishysan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those interested, there is a guy in the projector section of AVS that just post a link to the firmware upgrade with clear and easy instructions for the RS-1/HD-1 from 059 (first firmware) to 061, fixing the colorspace problems. To perform the upgrade, we can use the same 9 pin to 9 pin serial cable we use to upgrade the firmware for the D2.



Just peeked at the upgrade for the RS1 PDF and saw that opposite to what the D2 needs, it needs a Null Modem cable, or a cross-connected serial cable which is ODD! You can probably buy an adapter for your existing serial cable for the D2. You might even be able to do it at the driver level? No sure.


Found that odd.. see under "Equipment Required" in the PDF.


Cheers.


----------



## shah993

Bob,

I did not have a pressing need to upgrade but a pressing urge to experiment!!.With it being a long weekend and since I was not on call just decided to tinker around after being emboldened with your giudedance!!


----------



## AnthemAVM

I was moving some cables around this weekend, and put an optical into my XA2 to the Anthem. In the past I had only a HDMI, the XA2 always just told the Anthem that it was getting a digital signal.


I am know getting a Dolby D signal to the Anthem, and it sounds much better.


Michael


----------



## dsm363

Anyone have advice about the Toshiba HD-A2 with the Anthem D2? It's so cheap now with 5 free HD-DVDs too. My question was: Is this the HD-DVD player to get since the D2 has a top-notch processor? The Toshiba HD-A2 only outputs 1080i so wasn't sure if that made a difference. I think it handles the next-gen sound formats as far as I can tell. Thanks.


----------



## cpcat

I've looked around for this so forgive me if it's already been answered. I'm having problems loading a custom resolution onto my AVM50. I'm trying to load the 1080p48 included with Live Video Settings Editor to try with my Sony Pearl.

The program finds the AVM50, I have the custom resolution selected, and I click Load. Then it appears to load fine, but when I hook the AVM50 back up I can't get a picture. Everything else works i.e. sound and OSD but it doesn't seem to be outputting any video. Even if I set the original resolution back to 1080p60 it still doesn't provide any video. I double checked the source select menu to be sure I was still scaling the right input. To fix everything, I 'm forced to reload factory defaults, then restore user settings. The problem is that this erases my custom resolution.


I'm running V1.11e and I'm using the Live Video Settings Editor sent by Anthem with 1.11e (It still says V1.10).


Any thoughts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've looked around for this so forgive me if it's already been answered. I'm having problems loading a custom resolution onto my AVM50. I'm trying to load the 1080p48 included with Live Video Settings Editor to try with my Sony Pearl.
> 
> The program finds the AVM50, I have the custom resolution selected, and I click Load. Then it appears to load fine, but when I hook the AVM50 back up I can't get a picture. Everything else works i.e. sound and OSD but it doesn't seem to be outputting any video. Even if I set the original resolution back to 1080p60 it still doesn't provide any video. I double checked the source select menu to be sure I was still scaling the right input. To fix everything, I 'm forced to reload factory defaults, then restore user settings. The problem is that this erases my custom resolution.
> 
> 
> I'm running V1.11e and I'm using the Live Video Settings Editor sent by Anthem with 1.11e (It still says V1.10).
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?



This post from DRHANKZ (found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread), gives the instructions for doing it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9221154 


Also, as I recall, there was something about this working with the Pearl's DVI input but not with its HDMI input or vice versa (due to a limitation in the Pearl itself). And that whichever one it worked with, the result was a softer image due to a known bug in the Pearl itself that Sony has, so far, not fixed.

--Bob


----------



## cpcat

Thanks. I did find that post.


The DVI issues are with the Ruby IIRC as the Pearl has only HDMI.


I'll try it again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. I did find that post.
> 
> 
> The DVI issues are with the Ruby IIRC as the Pearl has only HDMI.
> 
> 
> I'll try it again.



OK, getting my Sony sets mixed up. Let's see, I thought it was known the Pearl wouldn't accept /48, only /24?


To restore video once you switch back to /60, try power cycling the Anthem. If you send video the destination can't handle, I believe it is possible to get the HDMI connection into a state where it can't recover by merely re-doing the normal handshake.


Also, remember you have to Back out of Setup / Video Output and "accept" the change before it actually takes effect.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This post from DRHANKZ (found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread), gives the instructions for doing it.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9221154
> 
> 
> Also, as I recall, there was something about this working with the Pearl's DVI input but not with its HDMI input or vice versa (due to a limitation in the Pearl itself). And that whichever one it worked with, the result was a softer image due to a known bug in the Pearl itself that Sony has, so far, not fixed.
> 
> --Bob



Ruby has the DVI limitation - not the Pearl.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soapman72* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Now, would you be willing to email me 1.11g if you have it?
> 
> Sean



Did you try it? Please still check in with Nick so he can keep track of all of malcontents.


----------



## cpcat

I still can't get it to load 1080p48. I even accepted the custom resolution and saved User settings before I disconnected. All it gives me for the custom res. is 720p60 (and no video to boot). FYI my Pearl accepts 1080p48 without a problem or at least it did from my Lumagen HDP.


Luckily, I saved my User settings to Installer settings before trying this. I reloaded factory defaults to get the video back and then restored Installer settings, then saved back to User settings.


Anyone else with 1.11e having problems with installing a custom resolution?


----------



## mmarantz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh, by the way, I do use an AppleTV to stream my MP3 collection as well for some more casual listening, entertaining for parties, etc. I have the AppleTV input via Optical digital, and I let the D2 upsample and post-process with Anthem's own "Anthem Logic - Music" setting. I have to say, this is a VERY musical output, and for what it's worth, I think you should check it out before using any Dolby ProLogic Music setting. I have never liked Dobly processing for 2-channel music, and Anthem really nailed a good one with this Anthem Logic Music processing. Check it out, let me know what ya think.
> 
> 
> My 3 and a half cents,
> 
> Brian



Brian, how do you have your Apple TV set up? I cannot seem to get mine to work either via compoent or HDMI via the AVM 50. What is your input and output set to on the Anthem? And how are you outputing your anthem to your display. Thanks a lot.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmarantz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Brian, how do you have your Apple TV set up? I cannot seem to get mine to work either via compoent or HDMI via the AVM 50. What is your input and output set to on the Anthem? And how are you outputing your anthem to your display. Thanks a lot.



My AppleTV is connected via Component video and Optical Digital audio. There are several reported problems with HDMI on the Apple side, and it certainly isn't needed here, so I chose not to use it. The native video rate of an AppleTV is 720p, so I would recommend setting the AppleTV to output 720p to the D2/AVM50. In my case, I have always run 1080i/60 output from my D2 to my Sony Q006. This has worked like a champ thus far, including with the AppleTV.


Not sure if this helps you at all. If you've set the appropriate Component connection as the input to scaler setting for this source in the AVM50, then you should be fine here. Let us know what you're seeing exactly, and maybe we can get you through it.


Brian


----------



## mmarantz

Thanks so much for the help. I wish the AppleTV would work HDMI, just to simplify cableing. Anyway, I did set the Apple TV to 720p and the Anthem HDMI output to 1080p/24 which my Pioneer PRO-FHD1 accepts. Since there is only one output setting, I have it set this way because my LG player outputs 1080p only at 24fps and the PRO FHD1 will do this. If I set the output to anything else, then the LG won't do 1080p.


I also did set the appropriate component connection as the input the scaler setting for the source. What I see is just blinking on the screen with a blue scree constantly blinking.


Any help is appreciated. Also, have you tried any of the driver or firmware upgrades to get the Apple TV via HDMI?


----------



## hifisponge

Anyone have a link to the original "Official D1 Thread"? I've tried searching the archives, but couldn't find it. As much as I appreciate this thread, it is focused on video processing and I would like to read some user opinions on the sound quality.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmarantz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for the help. I wish the AppleTV would work HDMI, just to simplify cableing. Anyway, I did set the Apple TV to 720p and the Anthem HDMI output to 1080p/24 which my Pioneer PRO-FHD1 accepts. Since there is only one output setting, I have it set this way because my LG player outputs 1080p only at 24fps and the PRO FHD1 will do this. If I set the output to anything else, then the LG won't do 1080p.
> 
> 
> I also did set the appropriate component connection as the input the scaler setting for the source. What I see is just blinking on the screen with a blue scree constantly blinking.
> 
> 
> Any help is appreciated. Also, have you tried any of the driver or firmware upgrades to get the Apple TV via HDMI?



I am still on version 1.10 of the D2 software, as everything is working fine for me right now and I don't want to switch until the new official version is released by Anthem. The Beta versions, which I've tested extensively in the past, aren't in my immediate future this time around.


As for the issue with 1080p/24 when sourcing the AppleTV, I have no idea what this could be, other than maybe it's a Frame Lock setting within the Video Processor menu, accessible by holding the 7 key. Try toggling it to the 2 different positions (Auto and Off I believe) and see if that makes any difference. Again, using Component video is going to be the only consistent video given the current problems on the Apple side with their HDMI implementation, so use Component to maintain a good "control" set when testing other things here.


Maybe someone else has an AppleTV that can comment on their use as well, especially if using 1080p/24 out of the D2/AVM50.


Brian


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone have a link to the original "Official D1 Thread"? I've tried searching the archives, but couldn't find it. As much as I appreciate this thread, it is focused on video processing and I would like to read some user opinions on the sound quality.



Hifisponge,

You are correct. This topic is far more video biased than you would expect in this thread that presumably should focus on audio performance. I can't help you with the appropriate D1 reference.


Having said that and being a strong end user of the Anthem technology set ......D2 as well as the p2 and p5 I can tell you what is NOT in this thread. Complaints about audio quality are almost non existent. Without the HDMI contamination there would probably be nothing but accolades. With this level of performance the assessment of the audio character of the D2 is more likely to be a function of the source and peripheral components than that of the D2 itself.


This much I believe would be endorsed by the serious audiophiles in this group...........The D2 does not unduly colour the source. It's penetrating quiet at its best. The fact that it does all this other 'stuff' is icing on the cake. The reason that this thread continues to exist in this part of the forum with its obsession on the video is frankly because no one here doubts its position as the default leader in a sea of audio separates.


I don't know how to avoid sounding like part of some marketing machine but I believe you are looking at a truly unique piece of technology that has no equal at any price! There are individuals in this thread (forgive me Hank) that are running the D2 with ludicrous amounts of power and in that corner his opinion matters significantly as the rest of us are forced to run with the limits imposed by Niagara Falls!


Others mix audio for a living for the film industry and in fact have mixed my all time reference material for LFE/ bass demonstration who swear by the quality and adherence to original intent that is the net result using the D2.


There are professional reviewers who would not move from this device unless something better came along. They get to see almost everything and are habitually dissatisfied if they know there's something better out there that they do not have.


I have gone on record refusing to sell my D2 at double the current MSRP. BUT to be honest what sold me was not any of the forgoing rhetoric but the actual owners experience. Owning the D2 (in the right environment) continues to educate and delight me in a way that no other piece of HT equipment has ever done in 50 years. AAaaaannnd there is more to come.......right Bob, Alain?


Peter


----------



## shah993

Nine ball agree with you.By no means am I an expert but just comparing it with Proceed I can tell it is better.I am running it with Bryston 2Bs biamped per chanel going in to Martin Logan speakers.Dont know if it is overkill or not but sure sounds good.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone have a link to the original "Official D1 Thread"? I've tried searching the archives, but couldn't find it. As much as I appreciate this thread, it is focused on video processing and I would like to read some user opinions on the sound quality.



I know there is alot of posts about video in here, but if you take your time and read through all the pages, you will find some good posts from audiophiles coming from all the other major manufacturers of high-end audio products.


Some are coming from Lexicon products (Bob, DrHankz and alot of others...), some from Arcam (Expletive is coming from the AV9?), Rob is coming from a Parasound Halo C2 (I think), Gostan was using the Bryston SP2, and even some D2 users are coming from Proceed products (shah993)!







Drjapp is also a true audiophile with a good ear. And I forget alot of others!


Maybe the "black-magic" was not working with shah993's Proceed unit, since he thinks that the D2 is better then the Proceed he was using.

















But alot of audiophile are using the D2 for music also. No "black-magic" or "your system is not revealing enough" in here. The D2/AVM50 are at the top of the food chain for sound quality ALSO, no matters what others are saying. Do yourself a favor and bring a D2 home to try it with YOUR equipment in YOUR room, and hear it for yourself. It's alot of money to spend, and ONLY you knows what YOU like.


----------



## Ian_Currie

I wonder if someone can clarify some things about the D2 for me. It looks like a nice video processor but seems somewhat elementary when it comes to HT audio features (at least from what I could gleam from their website).


1) How many subs does it support?

2) What type of sub crossover algorithm(s) does it employ?

3) It seems to have tone control. Can someone describe what type of feature this is - and whether it can be bypassed?


Thanks - I know many people are very happy with this product and I'm trying to see if it will fit my needs as I use more than 1 subwoofer in my system and am very particular about bass and getting a natural blend between mains and sub.


----------



## cpcat

OK, here's some audio discussion.


I'm coming from using a Meridian 508.24 CD player to a passive Placette pre to dual Pass X150 amps biamping PSB stratus golds with Vandy 2wq stereo subs passively crossed to the mains. Now, I've sold the Meridian and the Placette (partially to help pay for the AVM50) and am running a digital connection to the AVM50. I currently am using the Oppo 970 as both a DVD player and CD/SACD/DVD-audio transport. I haven't had that much time to audition, but I feel my sound is more or less comparable to what I had before. I'm using HDMI as the digital connection. I've heard from more than one source that HDMI is very prone to "jitter" for audio.


Here's the question: can you hear jitter? Should I run coaxial/toslink in addition and take the trouble to switch for CD? Should I also be concerned about jitter for the audio tracks on DVD's and use coaxial/toslink for that as well? Then, I'd only use HDMI for multichannel DVD-A/SACD. Doesn't that sort of defeat the concept of the "one cable" HDMI connection for both audio/video?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've heard from more than one source that HDMI is very prone to "jitter" for audio.



The Anthem D2/AVM50 are re-clocking the signal, so no jitter.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wonder if someone can clarify some things about the D2 for me. It looks like a nice video processor but seems somewhat elementary when it comes to HT audio features (at least from what I could gleam from their website).
> 
> 
> 1) How many subs does it support?
> 
> 2) What type of sub crossover algorithm(s) does it employ?
> 
> 3) It seems to have tone control. Can someone describe what type of feature this is - and whether it can be bypassed?
> 
> 
> Thanks - I know many people are very happy with this product and I'm trying to see if it will fit my needs as I use more than 1 subwoofer in my system and am very particular about bass and getting a natural blend between mains and sub.



There are 4 subwoofer outputs that can be used in any combination -- two RCA and two Balanced -- but they all carry the same signal (except for the standard level difference between the Balanced and the RCA outputs). The internal subwoofer level calibrations can be automatically adjusted for 1 or 2 subwoofers. If you do 3 or 4 there is no automatic level adjustment. The D2 also offers the typical "super sub" which is subwoofer bass plus bass going through the Mains.


From the D2 specs, the High-Pass slope for "small" Main speakers is 12dB/octave 2nd order.


The Low-Pass slope for the subwoofer is 24dB/octave 4th order.


There is also, apparently, a subsonic filter that is not further documented, but which, again apparently, can be disabled by selecting the THX Ultra2 Subwoofer option if your subwoofer(s) can go extra deep.


The subwoofer signal crossover frequency and the Mains crossover frequencies can be separately set in 5Hz increments from 25 to 160Hz. The Mains crossover has separate settings for L/R Front, for Center, for Side Surrounds, and for Rear Surrounds. The separate crossover settings allow for an overlap of bass going to the sub or to each specific set of "small" Main speakers, or for a gap between them. Of course the crossover is not a hard cutoff so some overlap or gap has a blending effect which can help tame room effects near the crossovers.


If you set your subwoofer crossover very low, there is an LFE bypass feature which makes sure any incoming LFE signal goes to the subwoofer anyway.


The D2 provides subwoofer phase and polarity controls, but only one control that affects all 4 outputs. Similarly, there is only one subwoofer distance and level setting.


In addition, the D2 provides one parametric filter which can be set below the crossover frequency to help tame the room's most prominent bass resonance. The center frequency, width and depth of attenuation are all adjustable. The D2 provides an internal set of test tones spanning the frequencies below the crossover to help set this.


THX Boundary Gain Compensation can also be selected if your subwoofers are against a wall.


In general, the D2 allows you to specify 2 separate speaker configurations (think Cinema vs. Music) either of which can be choosen for any overlayed input.


All of this is in the current software. Details on what will be added in the upcoming Room EQ upgrade version of the software are not out yet.


The Tone controls, by default, are disabled. They are the typical Bass/Treble stuff. If you use them, they are remembered separately for each incoming audio format from each input device. Speaker level controls (personal preference variations from the "calibrated" levels) can also be adjusted and remembered this way as well.


For further details, the V1.1x D2 user's manual can be downloaded from the Anthem Statement web site here:

http://www.sonicfrontiers.com/HTML/P...ual/D2_OM.html 


--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nine ball agree with you.By no means am I an expert but just comparing it with Proceed I can tell it is better.I am running it with Bryston 2Bs biamped per chanel going in to Martin Logan speakers.Dont know if it is overkill or not but sure sounds good.



excellent system Shah993........I seriously don't think you can exhaust the value of the D2 /AVM50. In fact you are probably blessed with advantages that some of us may never get to hear or experience. Most important, with the Proceed as a benchmark you have a huge educational step up that gives you a critical 'ear' that is prepared to hear the subtilties that are new to any of us.


Peter


ps. Ian I am running four subs and take medication for my obsession with managing Bass from LFE let alone maintaining an acoustical balance that is clean enough to squeek, but Bob Pariseau, Alain, Marc or even Hank can explain the science employed by the D2 to accomplish what you want. This is faaaaar from "elementary" and as Bob Pariseau will attest is one of the most difficult subjects to cover objectively. Thats not an excuse to avoid answering your question its an excellent one..........it just seems to always tap such a strong emotional chord.


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did you try it? Please still check in with Nick so he can keep track of all of malcontents.




Yes I did try the software (1.11g) and it seems to have taken care of the 480i bug that causes the resolution to be read incorrectly. It also improved the picture quality considerably. I did watch a movie using the sony, and no blue screen either.........I'll have to watch a couple more before I consider the blue screen over component issue fixed, as I could sometimes make it through a whole movie without a blue screen.



Thanks to everyone, for the replies, and for the emails regarding the software. The timing was perfect over the long weekend.


Sean


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsm363* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone have advice about the Toshiba HD-A2 with the Anthem D2? It's so cheap now with 5 free HD-DVDs too. My question was: Is this the HD-DVD player to get since the D2 has a top-notch processor? The Toshiba HD-A2 only outputs 1080i so wasn't sure if that made a difference. I think it handles the next-gen sound formats as far as I can tell. Thanks.




I too, am looking for the answer to this question. The A2 is sold by Costco re-labled as a D2 and sells for $250 currently. At this price, and with 5 free movies, the player is tempting. I would rather keep the $220, and the subsequent hundreds of dollars I will surely spend on movies if the performance will be mediocre.


I have one additional question though. Can the AVM 50 accept uncompressed PCM if the toshiba decodes one of the new audio formats, and outputs the signal as PCM?

I know the AVM 50 can't decode the newer formats itself, but I'm hoping that if the player can, then I will be able to take advantage of the higher resolution soundtracks on the HD-DVD discs.


Thanks!



Sean


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sean,

Have you noticed improved picture quality just for Component input (to be expected since the software fixed your 480i bug) or ALSO for HDMI input? We've had one surprising report here that V1.11g produced much better image quality than V1.11e even for HDMI and I'm looking for confirmation or rebuttal.

--Bob


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sean,
> 
> Have you noticed improved picture quality just for Component input (to be expected since the software fixed your 480i bug) or ALSO for HDMI input? We've had one surprising report here that V1.11g produced much better image quality than V1.11e even for HDMI and I'm looking for confirmation or rebuttal.
> 
> --Bob





Bob,



I do believe that there may be a small improvement in picture quality over HDMI at lower resolutions, like SD satellite stations, but if it is real, and not my imagination, the improvement is pretty small.


The component input, however was night and day. I remember reading posts stating the the picture quality improved over HDMI, and I would hate to fall victim to the power of suggestion, but I do remember thinking that much of the SD channels (HDMI satellite) I watch looked better. I don't think that HD channels improved, and I haven't watched the Pioneer player (also over HDMI) much since the upgrade, but I will report back when I do.


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know there is alot of posts about video in here, but if you take your time and read through all the pages, you will find some good posts from audiophiles coming from all the other major manufacturers of high-end audio products.
> 
> 
> Some are coming from Lexicon products (Bob, DrHankz and alot of others...), some from Arcam (Expletive is coming from the AV9?), Rob is coming from a Parasound Halo C2 (I think), Gostan was using the Bryston SP2, and even some D2 users are coming from Proceed products (shah993)!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drjapp is also a true audiophile with a good ear. And I forget alot of others!
> 
> 
> Maybe the "black-magic" was not working with shah993's Proceed unit, since he thinks that the D2 is better then the Proceed he was using.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But alot of audiophile are using the D2 for music also. No "black-magic" or "your system is not revealing enough" in here. The D2/AVM50 are at the top of the food chain for sound quality ALSO, no matters what others are saying. Do yourself a favor and bring a D2 home to try it with YOUR equipment in YOUR room, and hear it for yourself. It's alot of money to spend, and ONLY you knows what YOU like.



Thanks Levesque, nine ball, and cpcat for your comments on the sound quality of the D2.


I've taken the time to read every review published on Anthem gear (both pro and end user), and the overwhelming majority have had only positive things to say, not even hinting at possible flaws, except the usual disclaimer that no piece of gear will make a bad recording sound good. I have been in this hobby for many years, so I know that virtually every piece of equipment reviewed receives much more praise than criticism. However, if you read between the lines, as I have learned to do, you can judge by the overall tone of the review and the offhand comments as to how they really feel. Even taking that into account, it is hard to find any faults or strong characterizations of Anthem gear.


Of course, there is one person in particular in these forums that really doesn't like Anthem gear and he has a few followers, but he and I couldn't be farther apart in our beliefs as to what makes a good piece of gear. I have more faith in solid engineering and internal component quality than I do in claims that there is an "art" to the design of AV equipment. Based on the features, parts used and build quality, the D2 would seem to have very strong potential for good sound quality.


With that said, I am going to take a chance and order up a D2 and an A5. I have asked my dealer if I could take the floor model home to try out first, but they have told me that it is just too much hassle. I know that doesn't doesn't sound like very good service, but they are the only shop in the state that carries Anthem. On top of that, there is a restocking fee if I want to return it. So I'm taking an educated risk, but it is worth it to me. I have the audiophile sickness and I just have to finally step out of the AVR world and into separates. I'm tired of waiting and researching.


All though I'm sure you will say that I don't need it, wish me luck.


Oh, and once I get the system, which should take 4-6 weeks I'm guessing, I will certainly bring more talk of sound quality to this thread.










Thanks again to everyone that has chimed in over the past fews weeks as I've probed this thread for the info I need. You're a great group of guys.


- Tim


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soapman72* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes I did try the software (1.11g) and it seems to have taken care of the 480i bug that causes the resolution to be read incorrectly. It also improved the picture quality considerably. I did watch a movie using the sony, and no blue screen either.........I'll have to watch a couple more before I consider the blue screen over component issue fixed, as I could sometimes make it through a whole movie without a blue screen.
> 
> 
> Sean



Excellent. If I remember you were going direct to 11.g vs 11.e to 11.g, correct?


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Excellent. If I remember you were going direct to 11.g vs 11.e to 11.g, correct?




Straight from 1.11 to 1.11g. I had the original software until Monday of this week. I did not want to upgrade before the next official release, but I was finding too many problems to wait.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Of course, there is one person in particular in these forums that really doesn't like Anthem gear and he has a few followers, but he and I couldn't be farther apart in our beliefs as to what makes a good piece of gear. I have more faith in solid engineering and internal component quality than I do in claims that there is an "art" to the design of AV equipment. Based on the features, parts used and build quality, the D2 would seem to have very strong potential for good sound quality.



We are not talking about a painting or a sculpture here. We are talking about engineering and physics. There is no "black-magic" in a good sounding piece of gear.







Just a well done and well built pre/pro, that's all.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With that said, I am going to take a chance and order up a D2 and an A5.



Good move. You won't regret it. And if you have any problems, Anthem's customer services is second-to-none, and everyone in here will do everything to help you. I think that Anthem's philosophy, and the obvious care and passion they had while making those great breakthrough products (D2/AVM50) is reflecting on us. That's why we are all acting in a civilized way and helping each other like that.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All though I'm sure you will say that I don't need it, wish me luck.



Good luck! But I know you won't need it, since Bob will have ALL the answers to any problems you could encounter.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soapman72* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Straight from 1.11 to 1.11g. I had the original software until Monday of this week. I did not want to upgrade before the next official release, but I was finding too many problems to wait.



Thanks. I think Bob was thinking 11e to 11g based on comparison question. I agree with your findings, unfortunately 11g and the Tosh XA2 dont get along.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soapman72* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I too, am looking for the answer to this question. The A2 is sold by Costco re-labled as a D2 and sells for $250 currently. At this price, and with 5 free movies, the player is tempting. I would rather keep the $220, and the subsequent hundreds of dollars I will surely spend on movies if the performance will be mediocre.
> 
> 
> I have one additional question though. Can the AVM 50 accept uncompressed PCM if the toshiba decodes one of the new audio formats, and outputs the signal as PCM?
> 
> 
> 
> Sean




I'd get the A20 if you want to take advantage of the supposed future 1080p24 output upgrade. No reason to get the XA2 for AVM50/D2 owners IMO. The A2 won't do 1080p24 ever.


Yes the AVM50/D2 takes the multi-LPCM to take full advantage of the new formats.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All though I'm sure you will say that I don't need it, wish me luck.



You won't need LUCK.


I have owned every version of Lexicon Since the CP-1 which might have

been the first Pre/Pro for consumer use. I SOLD my Lexicon MC-12b to

buy my D2.


It was the BEST decision I made on any Pre/Pro.


NOW WHAT you need is *NOT LUCK* - You need to buy the new Pioneer

BDP-94HD Blu-Ray Player to enjoy the Lossless Audio of Blu-Ray movies

through your Anthem D2 - so that this will be you


----------



## Tolstoi

I am coming from a full analogue world. For Stereo listening I was using a system based on an Integrated tube amp driven by Vecteur 2.2/Audiomat Tango 2.5 CD Transport/DAC combo. For multi-channel audio I was using an Audio refinement 5.1 analogues Preamp with the Left and Right connected to the one of the integrated tube amp input. I was using a Denon 3910 for bass management. That was nice until I end up with more than one source 5.1 source (thanks to lack of a HD DVD/Blu-Ray/DVD/SACD/DVD-A universal player).


To replace the 5.1 analogue preamp I listen to a large crowd of audio processor, only the D1/D2 and the Bryston were my two serious contenders. I decided to pick the D2 because the performance addition provided by the HDMI audio is amazing something the Bryston is not capable and will not be capable before 1-2 years form now.


Now I connected my setup in such a way that for some disk I am still using the tube integrated amp and for some I am going from my transport to the D2. When I compare the D2 DAC with my Audiomat Tango 2.5, the D2 performance is just a bit short of the Tango 2.5. Considering that the Tango alone is almost the 2/3 of price of the D2 it is amazing. On some type of music I will prefer the sound stage and musicality provided by the Tango 2.5 and the tube preamp, on pop music going through the D2 I endup with more punch and a better bass. Having integrated both setup I endup with the best of both world.


That being said, this is my own taste and I believe that Preamp and DAC selection is a personal taste and strongly recommend that you try the D2 or at least the D1 or worst case the AVM30 before making a decision.


I also believe that the D2 is a real barging. For the same price of my CD source (Transport and DAC) I endup with a high end prepro, a good 5.1 preamp, an excellent DAC, one of the best video processor, and an interesting tuner. There is also a phone amp included but I only use it for late movie listening. For real music listening through headphone I much prefer to use an Antique Sound Lab Tube Phone Amp (note I am using a pair of Grado RS2 for headphone).


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd get the A20 if you want to take advantage of the supposed future 1080p24 output upgrade. No reason to get the XA2 for AVM50/D2 owners IMO. The A2 won't do 1080p24 ever.
> 
> 
> Yes the AVM50/D2 takes the multi-LPCM to take full advantage of the new formats.





I understand what you are saying about 1080p/24, however, with all the problems surrounding that, as well as the fact that I have an SXRD Sony that wont do 24/48 refresh rate, I way just spend the cash on movies instead of the A20. My SXRD is supposed to do 72hz, but I wonder if it will automaticly display the picture at 72hz when fed a 24hz signal..........



Also, I read reports that at least currently, the A20 pulls the info off the disc in 1080i and then de-interlaces it (poorly). I don't know if that is a limitation built into the video chip, or oif it can really be addressed with a firmware upgrade. I don't mean to bash anyone's equipment, but I don't see the point in buying an 1080p HD player that won't pull the video off the disc in it's native format.


Lastly, as we all are, I am annoyed by the fact that there are 2 HD Disc formats, one of which will likely bite us at some point in the future when it goes away. A couple hundred bucks isn't so bad, but you wont catch me buying a premium player for either format until this shakes out.










Sean


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soapman72* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I understand what you are saying about 1080p/24, however, with all the problems surrounding that, as well as the fact that I have an SXRD Sony that wont do 24/48 refresh rate, I way just spend the cash on movies instead of the A20. My SXRD is supposed to do 72hz, but I wonder if it will automaticly display the picture at 72hz when fed a 24hz signal..........
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I read reports that at least currently, the A20 pulls the info off the disc in 1080i and then de-interlaces it (poorly). I don't know if that is a limitation built into the video chip, or oif it can really be addressed with a firmware upgrade. I don't mean to bash anyone's equipment, but I don't see the point in buying an 1080p HD player that won't pull the video off the disc in it's native format.
> 
> 
> Sean



It's true about the 1080i being deinterlaced to 1080p poorly according to a couple of reviews of the a20. I'm still going to buy the a20 over the a2 because the price difference is now minimal, there's at least a chance that 1080p24 may eventually be available, and there may be other hidden improvements in the model (probably not though!). My plan is to use the D2 to deinterlace the 1080i to 1080p. I'm just waiting for the "bugs" to be worked out in the video portion before upgrading my D1.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm just waiting for the "bugs" to be worked out in the video portion before upgrading my D1.



Since the upgrade takes awhile - I would get in the queue.


I'm using 100% standard FW 1.11 and 1080i to 1080p

works perfectly.


----------



## venpra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Some TV's can be turned on via the 12 volt trigger from the Anthem. If that's the case with your TV then you can instruct the Harmony to leave the TV turned on all the time (i.e., the Harmony won't send power on/off commands to the TV) and then you can actually turn on the TV using the Anthem trigger -- either whenever the Anthem is on, or only when certain sources are selected.
> 
> 
> The three Anthem triggers have a 1/4 second delay between them, so if you put the amp on trigger 1 and the TV on trigger 3 that may give you the delay you need.
> 
> 
> But really your best bet here is to have an electrician install an additional circuit for your amp.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In the interim, it might be best for you to tell the Harmony to leave the TV on all the time, and then manually turn it on and off yourself.
> 
> --Bob



Approach this with caution if you have a rear projection set that requires the cooling fan to run for a specified period of time after the TV has been turned off (such as the new Sony SXRD TVs) - to cool off the lamp.


Use the 12 volt trigger on the Anthem ONLY if your TV itself comes equipped with a trigger input. What that means is that sending a 12 volt signal from the Anthem to the TV is merely your intention to turn off the TV - the internal circuitry in the TV then turns the display off but continue to run the fan for a period of time until the temperature in the lamp housing has been brought down. This is similar to using the remote control or the front panel of the TV to power off.


On the other hand, there are some power conditioners out there that come equipped with 12 volt inputs that can be used to set specific outlets to respond to 12 volt signals. My power conditioner came so equipped and I was initially excited to implement this functionality. I connected the trigger from my Anthem AVM-50 to the input on the power conditioner so that the outlet that my TV is connected to is automatically turned on or off based on whether AVM-50 is on or off. I realized quickly that by sending a 12 volt signal to the power conditioner I was cutting the power at the outlet level and was not letting power in for the cooling fan to run. This is a BIG no-no and has a potential to drastically reduce the life of internal componentry of the TV.


Just a cautionary tale - DO NOT use the 12 volt triggers on power conditioners to control the outlets that components with internal fans are connected to (rear projection TVs, DVRs, PS3, XBOX 360, some HD-DVD and BluRay players, etc.,)


----------



## Ian_Currie

Bob & nine ball,


Thanks very much for the replies - very helpful.


Ian


----------



## Catdaddy67

Anyone here having issues with their AVM50 doing all the video nicely, but having issues outputting sound?


After finally setting up my media room equipment, a few nights ago i was having issues getting sound switched out of my AVM50. I have Toshiba HD-DVD, PS3, and an xbox 360 elite, coming in via HDMI and my Scientific Atlanta cable box coming in via component and coax for video and sound.


I was having issues getting sound at at all the other night, and after messing with the satellite inputs and changing them from HDMI to coax I was able to get sound switched out via HDMI.


I was watching King Kong last night on HD-DVD and everything appeared to be going fine, but after powering up again today I was able to get video to work but no sound.


I checked all of the inputs and they are all what they are supposed to be. HDMI 1 2 and 3 for the Tosh, PS3, and x elite and coax for the satellite.


Are there any known issues with firmware 1.11 that fit my problems?


Aside from that, i have the same issue Rob has in regard to my setup screen not showing on screen. I am comfortable enough with the setup via the front panel on the AVM50 that this by itself isnt too big of an issue for me, but coupled with the problems with sound I am starting to get irritated with the idea that I am betaing a $4000 piece of equipment.


Anyone have any ideas? 8(


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Levesque, nine ball, and cpcat for your comments on the sound quality of the D2.
> 
> 
> I've taken the time to read every review published on Anthem gear (both pro and end user), and the overwhelming majority have had only positive things to say, not even hinting at possible flaws, except the usual disclaimer that no piece of gear will make a bad recording sound good. I have been in this hobby for many years, so I know that virtually every piece of equipment reviewed receives much more praise than criticism. However, if you read between the lines, as I have learned to do, you can judge by the overall tone of the review and the offhand comments as to how they really feel. Even taking that into account, it is hard to find any faults or strong characterizations of Anthem gear.
> 
> 
> Of course, there is one person in particular in these forums that really doesn't like Anthem gear and he has a few followers, but he and I couldn't be farther apart in our beliefs as to what makes a good piece of gear. I have more faith in solid engineering and internal component quality than I do in claims that there is an "art" to the design of AV equipment. Based on the features, parts used and build quality, the D2 would seem to have very strong potential for good sound quality.
> 
> 
> With that said, I am going to take a chance and order up a D2 and an A5. I have asked my dealer if I could take the floor model home to try out first, but they have told me that it is just too much hassle. I know that doesn't doesn't sound like very good service, but they are the only shop in the state that carries Anthem. On top of that, there is a restocking fee if I want to return it. So I'm taking an educated risk, but it is worth it to me. I have the audiophile sickness and I just have to finally step out of the AVR world and into separates. I'm tired of waiting and researching.
> 
> 
> All though I'm sure you will say that I don't need it, wish me luck.
> 
> 
> Oh, and once I get the system, which should take 4-6 weeks I'm guessing, I will certainly bring more talk of sound quality to this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to everyone that has chimed in over the past fews weeks as I've probed this thread for the info I need. You're a great group of guys.
> 
> 
> - Tim



Tim, I will definitely be interested in hearing your opinion on the sound quality of the D2 when you get it and how it compares to the other equipment you have had. Keep us posted!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone here having issues with their AVM50 doing all the video nicely, but having issues outputting sound?
> 
> 
> After finally setting up my media room equipment, a few nights ago i was having issues getting sound switched out of my AVM50. I have Toshiba HD-DVD, PS3, and an xbox 360 elite, coming in via HDMI and my Scientific Atlanta cable box coming in via component and coax for video and sound.
> 
> 
> I was having issues getting sound at at all the other night, and after messing with the satellite inputs and changing them from HDMI to coax I was able to get sound switched out via HDMI.
> 
> 
> I was watching King Kong last night on HD-DVD and everything appeared to be going fine, but after powering up again today I was able to get video to work but no sound.
> 
> 
> I checked all of the inputs and they are all what they are supposed to be. HDMI 1 2 and 3 for the Tosh, PS3, and x elite and coax for the satellite.
> 
> 
> Are there any known issues with firmware 1.11 that fit my problems?
> 
> 
> Aside from that, i have the same issue Rob has in regard to my setup screen not showing on screen. I am comfortable enough with the setup via the front panel on the AVM50 that this by itself isnt too big of an issue for me, but coupled with the problems with sound I am starting to get irritated with the idea that I am betaing a $4000 piece of equipment.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any ideas? 8(



Sorry to hear that you still didn't get this sound issue resolved. I don't know what else to tell you, so I will let one of the resident experts give this a go from here.


Regarding the OSD issue: you are apparently only the second person to experience this (I am the first) as Nick said that he had never had a complaint about this before (and I am not aware of anyone else here having that issue either).


The difference is that mine works about 60% of the time, while your apparently doesn't work at all. I agree that it isn't a HUGE deal, but it is still quite annoying. I still haven't decided one way or the other whether to attempt to get a new unit (or have it fixed) or just keep it as is since everything else seems to be working quite well.


----------



## KenLand

Hey,


Anyone driving both an analog (component or s-vid) TV and a HDMI projector with their one D2?


I'm wondering the best way to hook it up.


Can I set the Component Out to always be 480i or 480p even if the HDMI out is set to 1080p?


Is the 480i s-video always active? (no matter the input rez?) (and is it of good quality?)


How are you doing it?


Thanks!

Ken


----------



## Catdaddy67

Yeah, Rob. I might call you again tonight, as that seemed to give me some good luck a few nights ago. I know that the connections are good, as ive been running it for a few days. I had not used it anywhere as extensively as i did last night, though.


Its separated from my other components and well ventilated, too. Very frustrating.


On a good note, the image looks fantabulous with the panamorph/AVM50/HD1 combo.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No problem, and let us know how it goes.
> 
> 
> As an aside, you still get my vote for best user name _ever_!



Nicest thing ive heard all day!










Didnt get to it this weekend. I was having trouble saving settings with the editor so Nick suggested I just wait for the new firmware rather than risk having to re-entering my info twice. I'll keep the group posted, hopefully with good news!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Catdaddy67* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone here having issues with their AVM50 doing all the video nicely, but having issues outputting sound?
> 
> 
> After finally setting up my media room equipment, a few nights ago i was having issues getting sound switched out of my AVM50. I have Toshiba HD-DVD, PS3, and an xbox 360 elite, coming in via HDMI and my Scientific Atlanta cable box coming in via component and coax for video and sound.
> 
> 
> I was having issues getting sound at at all the other night, and after messing with the satellite inputs and changing them from HDMI to coax I was able to get sound switched out via HDMI.
> 
> 
> I was watching King Kong last night on HD-DVD and everything appeared to be going fine, but after powering up again today I was able to get video to work but no sound.
> 
> 
> I checked all of the inputs and they are all what they are supposed to be. HDMI 1 2 and 3 for the Tosh, PS3, and x elite and coax for the satellite.
> 
> 
> Are there any known issues with firmware 1.11 that fit my problems?
> 
> 
> Aside from that, i have the same issue Rob has in regard to my setup screen not showing on screen. I am comfortable enough with the setup via the front panel on the AVM50 that this by itself isnt too big of an issue for me, but coupled with the problems with sound I am starting to get irritated with the idea that I am betaing a $4000 piece of equipment.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any ideas? 8(



You should call Anthem tech support. They will likely want you to try the V1.11e software, although I know of no specific problem like this in the software you are using.


For your On Screen Display, go to Setup / Displays & Timeout and verify that all settings match the defaults shown on page 39 of the V1.1x users manual. If that doesn't fix the problem for you then you likely have a hardware problem that Anthem will have to address.


For your audio problems, go into Setup / Source Select, go to each input in turn and:


* Confirm that HDMI Repeater=NO is set


* Confirm that Auto Dig=NO is set


For each "overlayed" input that you are not using (i.e., DVD2, DVD3 & etc.), go into Setup / Source Select and "disable" that input in the first line item of that menu. This is to make sure you are not accidentally selecting one of those by accident and confusing yourself.


Make sure that you are selecting your input device using the "Main" path of the Anthem. To do that, press the Main button at the top of the Anthem remote before selecting the input source using the buttons at the bottom of the remote. This tells the remote you want it to send commands to the Main path of the Anthem. [If you accidentally select a Zone 2 input then of course the Main path's audio outputs will see no change in audio.]


If you have headphones plugged in, unplug them.


If that doesn't fix it for you, you could have an unusual variation of the HDMI audio problem that has affected some Toshiba XA2 owners. The V1.11e software should fix that. If it doesn't, you may have a hardware problem that Anthem will have to address.

--Bob


----------



## Catdaddy67

Thanks Bob, will try all of that out here in a few. I hope it works!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nicest thing ive heard all day!



There is something inherently amusing about someone named "expletive" saying that's the "nicest thing Ive heard all day"!











> Quote:
> Didnt get to it this weekend. I was having trouble saving settings with the editor so Nick suggested I just wait for the new firmware rather than risk having to re-entering my info twice. I'll keep the group posted, hopefully with good news!



When you say "new firmware" which version is he talking about? Are we getting close to an "official" new FW version?


If so, I am probably going to have to break down and purchase a laptop computer (that's right I don't own one) for this purpose alone. Of course it would be nice to be able to use Live Video Editor too.


Anyone have any recommendations for a laptap to use to upgrade the D2 (I don't need bells and whistles, just something basic that will do the job)?


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You won't need LUCK.
> 
> 
> I have owned every version of Lexicon Since the CP-1 which might have
> 
> been the first Pre/Pro for consumer use. I SOLD my Lexicon MC-12b to
> 
> buy my D2.
> 
> 
> It was the BEST decision I made on any Pre/Pro.
> 
> 
> NOW WHAT you need is *NOT LUCK* - You need to buy the new Pioneer
> 
> BDP-94HD Blu-Ray Player to enjoy the Lossless Audio of Blu-Ray movies
> 
> through your Anthem D2 - so that this will be you



drhankz -


It is certainly encouraging to hear that you like the D2 as much if not better than the Lexicon gear. I'm friends with the salesman that sold me the D2 and he has Lexicon gear mated to Classe amps and B&W 801's. He had me over for a viewing of the first Lord of the Rings movie, and it was far and away the best surround sound demo I had ever heard. Of course he has a dedicated room that is acoustically treated that I'm sure had quite a bit to do with the excellent sound quality.


I'm looking forward to the arrival of the D2 and the A5. They should be head and shoulders above the Denon AVR I have currently. And since I will be mating them to Paradigm Signature speakers, there should be a an excellent synergy between the two. Considering Anthem and Paradigm are both owned by the same parent company, it would seem that there is a good chance that the D2 was evaluated on Paradigm speakers during development. Just a guess.


Cheers,


- Tim


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You should call Anthem tech support. They will likely want you to try the V1.11e software, although I know of no specific problem like this in the software you are using.
> 
> 
> For your On Screen Display, go to Setup / Displays & Timeout and verify that all settings match the defaults shown on page 39 of the V1.1x users manual. If that doesn't fix the problem for you then you likely have a hardware problem that Anthem will have to address.
> 
> 
> For your audio problems, go into Setup / Source Select, go to each input in turn and:
> 
> 
> * Confirm that HDMI Repeater=NO is set
> 
> 
> * Confirm that Auto Dig=NO is set
> 
> 
> For each "overlayed" input that you are not using (i.e., DVD2, DVD3 & etc.), go into Setup / Source Select and "disable" that input in the first line item of that menu. This is to make sure you are not accidentally selecting one of those by accident and confusing yourself.
> 
> 
> Make sure that you are selecting your input device using the "Main" path of the Anthem. To do that, press the Main button at the top of the Anthem remote before selecting the input source using the buttons at the bottom of the remote. This tells the remote you want it to send commands to the Main path of the Anthem. [If you accidentally select a Zone 2 input then of course the Main path's audio outputs will see no change in audio.]
> 
> 
> If you have headphones plugged in, unplug them.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't fix it for you, you could have an unusual variation of the HDMI audio problem that has affected some Toshiba XA2 owners. The V1.11e software should fix that. If it doesn't, you may have a hardware problem that Anthem will have to address.
> 
> --Bob




Well guys,


v1.11g does not work for me with my new Toshiba A2 HD DVD player. I get a beautiful picture, but no sound. I loaded v1.11e and the sound worked, but everything is green, and I mean GREEN!!!!!!!!


Also, when I am on the input that I have the toshiba connected to, the video adjustment menus are greyed out and therefore inaccessible. I will need to contact Anthem in the morning. Bummer.


Man, this hobby makes me depressed sometimes.










I hope there is something newer that they can send me that will allow me to get this player to cooperate.


As a side note, when I went back to 1.11e, the component 480i bug came back. Talk about kicking a guy when he is down.


----------



## Randall Morton

I think we are getting close to a new official firmware. I'm running 1.12n now and all seems to be working fairly well. i'm able to switch between sources now and the XA2 audio is also working.


If I have a Blu Ray disc running at 24fps, my 8300 playing, my XA2 playing an HD DVD, my computer on, all HDMI sources, I am able to switch between any of these sources and get a correct picture and audio(most of the time). I have a couple of component inputs that are also no problem. I think there is an S video glitch in this version, but I don't use S video currently.


The BDP HD1 is still very slow loading and getting sync. with frame lock on auto. It also loses sync after the previews and has to resync for the main menu. It again has to resync once you choose to start the movie. Once the movie starts it is completely stable. If you switch to a different source and come back it regains sync in about 5 seconds.


I have watched quite a bit of Blu Ray at 24fps now and I am becoming a bit spoiled by it. I notice the uneven motion in HD DVDs a lot more that I used to. I wish Anthem would fix this for us but I know they have a lot of other things going on now. I wonder if Toshiba will ever live up to their promise for 24fps with the XA2?


For the 24fps it is still best to start the D2 with the Blu Ray source selected and then start the player. I also found it is best not to switch sources until the main movie is playing. I know many here probably never switch sources during a movie, but I'm bad about this. I hated not being able to stop a movie and check something on the net if I want. Also I may see a DVD advertised on TV and want to add it to my BB queue while I'm thinking about it.


The last few firmwares have had two video output configurations and for any source you are able to select which you want. I know this will be a welcome addition for some. This newest firmware has a separate Bass Management for Movie and Music(I think this is new). There are also a few other menu changes such as source audio presets are on a separate menu now.


This firmware still has a few quirks for my use, but it is the best I have used so far. I think I can easily adapt to using this one, there are just things you need to do in a certain order sometimes. Once I learned these everything works great for my equipment. I'm not using any analog audio so I can't really comment on this area.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have watched quite a bit of Blu Ray at 24fps now and I am becoming a bit spoiled by it. I notice the uneven motion in HD DVDs a lot more that I used to. I wish Anthem would fix this for us but I know they have a lot of other things going on now. I wonder if Toshiba will ever live up to their promise for 24fps with the XA2?



It would solve it if we had proper inverse telecine applied to 1080i and 480i sources. That would be terrific. I think the problem stems from mixed cadences/bad edits in the source which corrupts the IVT. I'm not sure if anyone can really do this properly yet. Maybe Anthem will be one of the first.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> drhankz -
> 
> 
> It is certainly encouraging to hear that you like the D2 as much if not better than the Lexicon gear. I'm friends with the salesman that sold me the D2 and he has Lexicon gear mated to Classe amps and B&W 801's. He had me over for a viewing of the first Lord of the Rings movie, and it was far and away the best surround sound demo I had ever heard. Of course he has a dedicated room that is acoustically treated that I'm sure had quite a bit to do with the excellent sound quality.
> 
> 
> I'm looking forward to the arrival of the D2 and the A5. They should be head and shoulders above the Denon AVR I have currently. And since I will be mating them to Paradigm Signature speakers, there should be a an excellent synergy between the two. Considering Anthem and Paradigm are both owned by the same parent company, it would seem that there is a good chance that the D2 was evaluated on Paradigm speakers during development. Just a guess.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> - Tim



Your Dealer has some good gear in his home - as I do also. My Home Theater

is also purpose built and acoustically treated.


I'm not sure how that movie was demonstrated. Was it HD DVD

or Blu-Ray? Was it a lossless audio track over HDMI?


If it was none of those - it will only get better. I was going to upgrade

my MC-12b to MC-12HD - to get the HDMI inputs - but the Lexicon

Engineers told me NO 1080p --- PERIOD. That was a deal breaker for

me. I actually tried a Denon 4806 and took it back after 24 hours and

went back to my OLD Lexicon. Comparing Lexicon and Denon - is just

silly. It took me another 3 months to even find out about Anthem. I

had never heard about Anthem before my quest for a new HDMI Pre

Pro. Even if I had upgraded the MC-12b to MC-12HD - or if the Denon

had been good - I had an external DVDO VP50 for Video Processing.


The Anthem D2 had it all in one package. For me BUYING the D2 was

a Money Making Deal. I sold by VP50 and MC-12b and still had MONEY

left over after buying the D2.


NOW you Know why this is the Anthem Mascot


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Your Dealer has some good gear in his home - as I do also. My Home Theater
> 
> is also purpose built and acoustically treated.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure how that movie was demonstrated. Was it HD DVD
> 
> or Blu-Ray? Was it a lossless audio track over HDMI?
> 
> 
> If it was none of those - it will only get better. I was going to upgrade
> 
> my MC-12b to MC-12HD - to get the HDMI inputs - but the Lexicon
> 
> Engineers told me NO 1080p --- PERIOD. That was a deal breaker for
> 
> me. I actually tried a Denon 4806 and took it back after 24 hours and
> 
> went back to my OLD Lexicon. Comparing Lexicon and Denon - is just
> 
> silly. It took me another 3 months to even find out about Anthem. I
> 
> had never heard about Anthem before my quest for a new HDMI Pre
> 
> Pro. Even if I had upgraded the MC-12b to MC-12HD - or if the Denon
> 
> had been good - I had an external DVDO VP50 for Video Processing.
> 
> 
> The Anthem D2 had it all in one package. For me BUYING the D2 was
> 
> a Money Making Deal. I sold by VP50 and MC-12b and still had MONEY
> 
> left over after buying the D2.
> 
> 
> NOW you Know why this is the Anthem Mascot



I also sold a DVDO VP50 to get the D2. In my case didn't make money but the upgrade was almost free for a change.


----------



## Trigger44

Hi:


I am a new member-First post. I have a D2/A5, one month old. No problems - I

love it. I just switched from Direct TV to Dish because of the much talked about

picture quality. I am very happy with the improvement but have a question about

the resolution output to the D2. Everythings shows as 1080i input to the D2. If I

force a change to 480i for the SD channels, they all, including HD channels go to

480i. I set it back to 1080i because they all look better. With Direct TV SD was 480i and HD was 1080i. This Dish receiver is one of the new models that no longer have a access card. I guess this one of those "what ever works" things.


Any comments would be appreciated.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think we are getting close to a new official firmware. I'm running 1.12n now and all seems to be working fairly well. i'm able to switch between sources now and the XA2 audio is also working.
> 
> 
> If I have a Blu Ray disc running at 24fps, my 8300 playing, my XA2 playing an HD DVD, my computer on, all HDMI sources, I am able to switch between any of these sources and get a correct picture and audio(most of the time). I have a couple of component inputs that are also no problem. I think there is an S video glitch in this version, but I don't use S video currently.
> 
> 
> The BDP HD1 is still very slow loading and getting sync. with frame lock on auto. It also loses sync after the previews and has to resync for the main menu. It again has to resync once you choose to start the movie. Once the movie starts it is completely stable. If you switch to a different source and come back it regains sync in about 5 seconds.
> 
> 
> I have watched quite a bit of Blu Ray at 24fps now and I am becoming a bit spoiled by it. I notice the uneven motion in HD DVDs a lot more that I used to. I wish Anthem would fix this for us but I know they have a lot of other things going on now. I wonder if Toshiba will ever live up to their promise for 24fps with the XA2?
> 
> 
> For the 24fps it is still best to start the D2 with the Blu Ray source selected and then start the player. I also found it is best not to switch sources until the main movie is playing. I know many here probably never switch sources during a movie, but I'm bad about this. I hated not being able to stop a movie and check something on the net if I want. Also I may see a DVD advertised on TV and want to add it to my BB queue while I'm thinking about it.
> 
> 
> The last few firmwares have had two video output configurations and for any source you are able to select which you want. I know this will be a welcome addition for some. This newest firmware has a separate Bass Management for Movie and Music(I think this is new). There are also a few other menu changes such as source audio presets are on a separate menu now.
> 
> 
> This firmware still has a few quirks for my use, but it is the best I have used so far. I think I can easily adapt to using this one, there are just things you need to do in a certain order sometimes. Once I learned these everything works great for my equipment. I'm not using any analog audio so I can't really comment on this area.



Randall, thanks for taking the time for the update.....this is very, very encouraging news. There's a whole 'bunch' of us sitting on the side lines waiting for the 'production' version of what you are describing. If we come close to the level of stability you are describing I am convinced most if not all the dialog in this thread will go to the next level.


For the first time since this thread has started we will have a stable common experience set that will give us the opportunity to begin the process of calibration at least on the video side of the equation. I suspect many of the hard core members of this thread will wait for the equalization functionality to begin the audio tweaks but my hope is that we can retain enough interest to hold onto the valuable assets that contribute to this environment to our immense benefit.


Thanks again.......

Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trigger44* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi:
> 
> 
> I am a new member-First post. I have a D2/A5, one month old. No problems - I
> 
> love it. I just switched from Direct TV to Dish because of the much talked about
> 
> picture quality. I am very happy with the improvement but have a question about
> 
> the resolution output to the D2. Everythings shows as 1080i input to the D2. If I
> 
> force a change to 480i for the SD channels, they all, including HD channels go to
> 
> 480i. I set it back to 1080i because they all look better. With Direct TV SD was 480i and HD was 1080i. This Dish receiver is one of the new models that no longer have a access card. I guess this one of those "what ever works" things.
> 
> 
> Any comments would be appreciated.



As a *NEW MEMBER* you deserve the Anthem Mascot
























As for your Dish Receiver - Probably known of us Know the answer.

My SONY Receivers - NOT for DISH TV - have a NATIVE mode. I

don't know if that is a mode you can find on your Dish receiver.


If there is one - then it lets SD come through as 480i and HD come

through as either 720p or 1080i.


If you have no such mode - native or direct - then by all means

leave it set at 1080i into the D2.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trigger44* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi:
> 
> 
> I am a new member-First post. I have a D2/A5, one month old. No problems - I
> 
> love it. I just switched from Direct TV to Dish because of the much talked about
> 
> picture quality. I am very happy with the improvement but have a question about
> 
> the resolution output to the D2. Everythings shows as 1080i input to the D2. If I
> 
> force a change to 480i for the SD channels, they all, including HD channels go to
> 
> 480i. I set it back to 1080i because they all look better. With Direct TV SD was 480i and HD was 1080i. This Dish receiver is one of the new models that no longer have a access card. I guess this one of those "what ever works" things.
> 
> 
> Any comments would be appreciated.



I don't use cable/satellite (OTA 8 miles from transmitters), but HDTV receivers either force you to select one output resolution (e.g. 1080i) for all programming, or they may offer something called "native" resolution - meaning the output will switch depending on SD (480i) or HD (720p or 1080i). If your receiver has some way of doing native, that's what you want. Otherwise, you are best off selecting 720 or 1080 - I use 1080 on my receiver.


Also, if you use native, you will probably want to use component rather than HDMI. Every time you switch channels between SD/HD you will trigger a new HDMI handshake, which can take a few seconds. Save your HDMI inputs for HD DVD/BD or HTPC.


[Edit - drhankz already covered this - but use component if you use Native, or else suffer with resyncing while channel surfing)


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> [Edit - drhankz already covered this - but use component if you use Native, or else suffer with resyncing while channel surfing)


*YES - GDC - is correct.*


If you have a native mode - it is better to use Component

to save on the channel changing HDMI re-sync each time

you change from one resolution to another.


OTHERWISE - enjoy the 1080i Show!


Now with the D2 - you need to get some Blu-Ray movies

going to better enjoy the show and sound


----------



## Trigger44

I just bought a Denon 3930ci. After watching several movies and Eagles concerts

upconverted on this standard def DVD player. It will be a long time before I will spend any dollars on Blu-Ray. I just do not see the point. I just spent close to

$30,000 redoing my entire system. TV is a Pioneer HD1 50". All speakers are Paradigm Signature. I see little difference between the D2 + Denon 3930 and

movies on HD DVD players but if I change my mind I have two more HDMI inputs.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trigger44* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just bought a Denon 3930ci. After watching several movies and Eagles concerts
> 
> upconverted on this standard def DVD player. It will be a long time before I will spend any dollars on Blu-Ray.


*It is always your choice.*


I am an Electric Engineer and I have been designing

Video gear since 1972. EE's have an old saying -

_*Garbage in - equals Garbage Out.*_


What that means in this case is no matter how good

your up-converting processor and algorithms might

be - it will NEVER be as good as Higher Quality Source

data.


Since SD is only 480i - even when converted to 1080p

- it will never ever be as good as 1080p SOURCE material

UNPROCESSED.


Now if your display device is NOT Capable of properly

showing the 1080p content in its NATIVE form - then

you are right - you might as well stay with SD.


But those of us who have 13 Ft. 1080p Projection

Systems-- We can CERTAINLY can SEE the Difference.


And with the D2 - ANYONE can HEAR the Difference

in Lossless Audio on Blu-Ray movies even if you can't

see the difference.


----------



## Trigger44

I have a Pioneer HD1 50", it goes 1080p no problem. I'm sticking with the Denon 3930ci.

The build quality on most of the HD DVD players just isn't there. They are priced 2x more than their worth to me.


----------



## Ian_Currie

Slightly OT: can someone PM me with an expected street price for a D2 (in USD)?


Thanks...


----------



## Catdaddy67

Hey Bob,


Thanks for the advice! AutoDig: NO, did the trick for my sound issues.


So much stuff being done still in my new house, unboxing, moving stuff, setting stuff up, fixing, that I really didnt have much time to try to tweak the OSD issue. Ill work on that tonight. My brother is coming in from out of town, so Ill have some time in front of my setup.


Cant wait!


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trigger44* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just bought a Denon 3930ci. After watching several movies and Eagles concerts
> 
> upconverted on this standard def DVD player. It will be a long time before I will spend any dollars on Blu-Ray. I just do not see the point. I just spent close to
> 
> $30,000 redoing my entire system. TV is a Pioneer HD1 50". All speakers are Paradigm Signature. I see little difference between the D2 + Denon 3930 and
> 
> movies on HD DVD players but if I change my mind I have two more HDMI inputs.



Trigger......if what you have stated here is true then something is wrong with your setup..........Hank might not be the gentlest poster in this thread but on this one he is totally correct! There is absolutely NO comparison between HD and upconverted SD under any civilized measure. HD is not a bit close to SD no matter how you measure it. Period end of statement. I would suggest you are in for a treat if you hook up an HD system....blu or otherwise through the D2 to your Pioneer if properly configured.


To argue otherwise would be silly.......


Peter


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trigger44* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a Pioneer HD1 50", it goes 1080p no problem. I'm sticking with the Denon 3930ci.
> 
> The build quality on most of the HD DVD players just isn't there. They are priced 2x more than their worth to me.



On a 50" screen it's possible you wouldn't see much difference depending on your viewing distance. For me at 15 feet on a 9+ foot screen, it's easily seen.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On a 50" screen it's possible you wouldn't see much difference depending on your viewing distance. For me at 15 feet on a 9+ foot screen, it's easily seen.



Exactly. I have only watched about 4 movies on standard def DVD in the last 6-8 months. It just doesn't cut it compared to HD....especially on a 123" screen.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Exactly. I have only watched about 4 movies on standard def DVD in the last 6-8 months. It just doesn't cut it compared to HD....especially on a 123" screen.



Even if it takes 15 to 25 days for HD titles to be shipped here, I don't buy DVD's anymore. I have a 106 inch screen and I can see the difference easily. For the same title, DVD looks out of focus.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On a 50" screen it's possible you wouldn't see much difference depending on your viewing distance. For me at 15 feet on a 9+ foot screen, it's easily seen.



Come on guys, properly configured HD is more than clarity, even on a 50" screen. In fact saturation and range of colours ought to be far superior.


Can you actually see a 9ft screen at 15 feet????


Peter


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Come on guys, properly configured HD is more than clarity, even on a 50" screen. In fact saturation and range of colours ought to be far superior.



I agree. But the difference is even more noticeable with front projection (i.e. big screen).



> Quote:
> Can you actually see a 9ft screen at 15 feet????
> 
> 
> Peter



What do you mean? I sit at about 14 feet from my 9 foot wide screen, and it's perfect for me.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree. But the difference is even more noticeable with front projection (i.e. big screen).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean? I sit at about 14 feet from my 9 foot wide screen, and it's perfect for me.




I do the old hands as blinders on either side of my glasses when I sit to see movies. Works in home theaters and big noisy theaters. OK people think I'm nuts when I do it in public, but it works (for me). I'm about 16' for a 123" screen, but I can easily see the difference 25' back between SD upconverted & HD.


A good 1080p upconversion does not create resolution, it smooths between widely spaced low resolution. As Peter said (and even if I wasn't an engineer) it is not worth debating.


----------



## LEVESQUE

Randall.


Don't forget that the Pioneer BDP-HD1 and the Sony clone are switching resolutions when using 1080p24 and going from the menu to the film or back again. Annoying problem and stupid way of doing it... The PS3 and Samsung BD-P1200 are not doing this, and are then alot more stable, with alot less flashing and blus screen, and alot faster and more stable handshakes...


The differences in stability is MAJOR when comparing those players with the D2 in the loop. The D2 is not at fault here IMHO, but the odd resolution switching going on with the Pioneer and Sony clone are at the root of the "problem". And like always, Anthem are trying to "fix" that strange resolution switching going on with the Pioneer.


Just try a PS3 for fun to compare, and you will understand what I mean...














Having all those players at home to compare them can make you realize alot of things about stability and fast and reliable handshakes ...


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Come on guys, properly configured HD is more than clarity, even on a 50" screen. In fact saturation and range of colours ought to be far superior.




In theory, yes. In practice many sources/displays aren't properly handling the HD/SD colorspace switching at this point. Not too big a deal really, but hopefully it will become more consistent over time.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you actually see a 9ft screen at 15 feet????
> 
> 
> Peter



I don't have a link for it handy, but this actually should be close to the THX recommendation for the "immersive" experience. 9ft diagonal might still not be big enough from 15 ft.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is something inherently amusing about someone named "expletive" saying that's the "nicest thing Ive heard all day"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you say "new firmware" which version is he talking about? Are we getting close to an "official" new FW version?
> 
> 
> If so, I am probably going to have to break down and purchase a laptop computer (that's right I don't own one) for this purpose alone. Of course it would be nice to be able to use Live Video Editor too.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any recommendations for a laptap to use to upgrade the D2 (I don't need bells and whistles, just something basic that will do the job)?



Apparently, there's a 1.2 firmware coming out within a few weeks if testing goes well. He wasnt overly forthcoming on the new features but one he mentioned briefly was something along the lines of output resolutions based on input resolution. If i understood it correctly, you can set the D2 to output X based on Y. For example,"if input res =1080p24 then output 720p72" Then the rest will follow your primary output res. I dont know if this was per input or a global and i dont know how many custom settings you can have. Either way this sounds like something that would make my end goal more attainable since i can set a res for 1080p24 differently than the rest of the inputs, which is what i would want.


This combined with the HDMI re-write and some other bells and whistles made it seem like a good idea to sit tight and do a major upgrade/recalibration rather than two 'mini' ones.











Levesque, on your PS3 what input audio format are you getting for BR and SACD? Seems the max i am getting is 24bit/48khz, is that correct? Id think at least 96khz? (or does it not matter anyway with the D2 upsampler)


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In theory, yes. In practice many sources/displays aren't properly handling the HD/SD colorspace switching at this point. Not too big a deal really, but hopefully it will become more consistent over time.
> 
> 
> I agree totally, its just that the focus of discussion on hd, for the benefit of the lurking students of this sport, has obsessively been on definition or depth of field and there really is as much to be said for the colours that will never be seen on SD. The result for the well calibrated system can be just as profound. The D2 added to the mix ensures this aspect of the genre is presented at its peak.......even on a 42" plasma. But to the others, I agree the experience on my 10' is almost.......nope , I guess it is sexual!
> 
> 
> I don't have a link for it handy, but this actually should be close to the THX recommendation for the "immersive" experience. 9ft diagonal might still not be big enough from 15 ft.



Forgive my dry sense of humour, I wasn't really debating the distance to the screen.........however, you make an interesting point all the same. I believe that the THX spec for HD would be different than the common one used for SD config. I suspect (for video) that it probably would allow a min distance for a nine foot to be somewhere aroundten feet. But that's honestly pure speculation on my part. Which brings me to my question for the D2 for calibration of the video......is there a THX video spec that the D2 would be (could be) certified for? It surely would be the only unified piece of hardware on the market that would be capable of meeting certification for both video and audio.


Peter


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque, on your PS3 what input audio format are you getting for BR and SACD? Seems the max I am getting is 24bit/48khz, is that correct? Id think at least 96khz? (or does it not matter anyway with the D2 upsampler)



For BRs, I get on the input side 24bit/48kHz max, and 192 out. You have to press one more time on the button to see what's coming out!


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For BRs, I get on the input side 24bit/48kHz max, and 192 out. You have to press one more time on the button to see what's coming out!



Yeah i was mostly wondering about the input side which is the same for me as yours. IIRC the oppo 970hd outputs 24/88khz for SACD so i was expecting at least the same.


Apparently there is going to be a new SACD bitmapping output mode for sale on the PSN store next month. I wonder if this is the super high-resolution conversion i remember reading about a little while back.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah i was mostly wondering about the input side which is the same for me as yours. IIRC the oppo 970hd outputs 24/88khz for SACD so i was expecting at least the same.
> 
> 
> Apparently there is going to be a new SACD bitmapping output mode for sale on the PSN store next month. I wonder if this is the super high-resolution conversion i remember reading about a little while back.



Although the lossless codecs for Blu-Ray and HD-DVD allow for higher than 48KHz on disc (i.e., they enable the bit rate when reading the disc if the producer is willing to use up that much disc space and bit rate) the fact is that the movie tracks are actually produced at 48KHz right now. So 24bit/48KHz is what you should be seeing.


Some Toshiba players are upsampling this to 96KHz (poorly).


The D2 upsamples it to 192KHz (excellently).


---------------------------------


SACD should be coming in as 24/88.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randall.
> 
> 
> Don't forget that the Pioneer BDP-HD1 and the Sony clone are switching resolutions when using 1080p24 and going from the menu to the film or back again. Annoying problem and stupid way of doing it... The PS3 and Samsung BD-P1200 are not doing this, and are then alot more stable, with alot less flashing and blus screen, and alot faster and more stable handshakes...
> 
> 
> The differences in stability is MAJOR when comparing those players with the D2 in the loop. The D2 is not at fault here IMHO, but the odd resolution switching going on with the Pioneer and Sony clone are at the root of the "problem". And like always, Anthem are trying to "fix" that strange resolution switching going on with the Pioneer.
> 
> 
> Just try a PS3 for fun to compare, and you will understand what I mean...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having all those players at home to compare them can make you realize alot of things about stability and fast and reliable handshakes ...




I had an idea that the Pioneer player was a big part of the problem. Do you prefer watching Blu Ray movies on your PS3?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had an idea that the Pioneer player was a big part of the problem. Do you prefer watching Blu Ray movies on your PS3?



That's a tricky question...










Yes I prefer the PS3 to the Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1 that I just sold. But the PS3 is a crazy "heat-machine", gererating way too much heat in my rack. I had to exchange my first PS3 since it was really too noisy (like an airplane!) and was clearly overheating. But my 2nd is alot better. No noise, and alot better in regard to heat. But I'm still fighting with the heat coming out of it. It,s not overheating, but it's scary... I had to install 2 120mm fans and both a new air intake and outake to get rid of the tremendous amount of heat coming out of that small thing.







Seriously, I think it's putting out more heat then my D2+P2+P5+my projector JVC HD-1 all together!!! I'm really afraid about the reliability of my PS3 after a couple of months of abuse and heat like that!


I simply can't believe people saying that a PS3 in a rack is not a problem. Really, I can't. You have to redo and re-think air circulation in your rack if you wan't to add a PS3 in there. It's not a classical player. The Pioneer BDP-HD1 was mild to the touch and not making any sound. It was working great in my rack.


But for picture quality, there is no differences between the BDP-HD1 and the PS3. It's the SAME. But the PS3 is ALOT easier to use. Booting, navigating the menus, inititalizing the Blu-ray disks, handshakes, stability, etc, everything is so much faster and easier with the PS3... it's not even funny.


I'm still evaluating the Samsung BD-P1200 and didn't had alot of time to play with it. So I will post my impressions later. But you could see it like a "Toshiba HD-XA2 for Blu-ray, but with with 1080p24", and you wouldn't be too far from the truth. And DVD playback is simply stellar. Better then the Pioneer BDP-HD1.


Honestly, IMHO, with the newest firmware 1.8, the PS3 is a better Blu-ray player then the Pioneer BDP-HD1 for the price. But the PS3 is a major problem in a rack. If you don't plan on using it in a rack, then it's the best Blu-ray player on the market right now, even if not considering the cost. But if you want to use it in a rack, then the PS3 is not the best choice IMHO. You will have to deal with heat one way or the other.


So I really don't know if i will keep the PS3 in my rack, or use the Samsung BD-P1200 instead. I'm still debating. But the heat coming out of that small thing is really scary... Will it work for months, or will it die on me?










So it all comes down to each person and their needs.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's a tricky question...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really afraid about the reliability of my PS3 after a couple of months of abuse and heat like that!



Ya Rack Mounting That Piece is another Joke.


By Rack mounting I mean in a real Rack with

real 19" front Panels.


Integrating PS3 Remote control into any system is a JOKE.


It's a Game - an Overheating Flaky Game. *Call a Spade a

Spade.* Mine just went back to Sony for Replacement. It

could not run for an hour WITHOUT CRASHING and that

was OUT IN THE OPEN AIR.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

The PS3 = too loud for me...in my HT!


That's a rhyme, folks!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The PS3 = too loud for me...in my HT!
> 
> 
> That's a rhyme, folks!



It is NOT even the Noise - because that is INSIDE

a Rack.


Tell me how you MOUNT a round box in a 2 dimensional

Right Angles - Rack with Front Panel access to the PS3.


Then tell me how you integrate it into a CONTROL System.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ya Rack Mounting That Piece is another Joke.
> 
> By Rack mounting I mean in a real Rack with
> 
> real 19" front Panels.
> 
> Integrating PS3 Remote control into any system is a JOKE.
> 
> It's a Game - an Overheating Flaky Game. *Call a Spade a
> 
> Spade.* Mine just went back to Sony for Replacement. It
> 
> could not run for an hour WITHOUT CRASHING and that
> 
> was OUT IN THE OPEN AIR.



I know. But it's still really sad, since booting, menu navigation, initialization and handshakes are so fast and rock-solid, it's a shame we can't really use it in a real AV rack...










It's interesting though, since they sell so few stand-alone Blu-ray players compared to the PS3, it makes you wonder if all the people buying it are using it out in the open only ... So then, why so few stand-alone Blu-ray players sold? Is there only a few people with real AV racks out there?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know. But it's still really sad, since booting, menu navigation, initialization and handshakes are so fast and rock-solid, it's a shame we can't really use it in a real AV rack...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's interesting though, since they sell so few stand-alone Blu-ray players compared to the PS3, it makes you wonder if all the people buying it are using it out in the open only ... So then, why so few stand-alone Blu-ray players sold? Is there only a few people with real AV racks out there?



I think 99% of the PS3 owners are using it OUT IN THE OPEN.

I use my PS3 in my Middle Size Theater - NOT RACK MOUNTED.

It sits on top of the Pedestal.


The Picture below is OLD - all the gear is new Pioneer Stuff now

and the PS3 sits on the very top shelf in the OPEN. AND IT STILL

Overheats.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Come on guys, properly configured HD is more than clarity, even on a 50" screen. In fact saturation and range of colours ought to be far superior.
> 
> 
> Can you actually see a 9ft screen at 15 feet????
> 
> 
> Peter



Of course you are right, color is very important. I do my own greyscale calibration using Colorfacts 7.0 and a I1pro


----------



## Expletive

Within a year the PS3 will be running on smaller/cooler chips so the heat and noise issue will go away eventually. I really hope there will be a more robust IR solution at some point tho because i'd like a ps3 and a blur ray player in my system but am not about to use up 2 precious HDMI ports to have both!


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i'd like........a blur ray player in my system


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think 99% of the PS3 owners are using it OUT IN THE OPEN.
> 
> 
> The Picture below is OLD - all the gear is new Pioneer Stuff now
> 
> and the PS3 sits on the very top shelf in the OPEN. AND IT STILL
> 
> Overheats.



I was going to say, I had one of those RCA HD Sat receivers back in the stone age (of HD)


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's a tricky question...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the PS3 is a crazy "heat-machine", gererating way too much heat in my rack..



I read in another thread that it runs hotter with 1.8. Was your PS3 like this even before you upgraded to v1.8? I don't have a problem w/ heat, but I have about a foot of clearance above it.


Maybe the heat is because the scaling is being done via software on its cell processors, as oppossed to dedicated hardware chips that do the scaling?


----------



## hifisponge

Question for D2 owners about HDMI audio.


I came across the following info in one of the stickies:


Movie soundtracks are recorded with the .1 (LFE) channel 10db quieter than the rest of the channels. It is a receiver's job to increase the .1 channel by 10 db, when fed a Dolby or DTS signal. Some receivers do NOT apply this 10 db increase to PCM signals over HDMI, reproducing the bass much quieter than the rest of the soundtrack.


Does the D2 properly boost the LFE channel through HDMI?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question for D2 owners about HDMI audio.
> 
> 
> I came across the following info in one of the stickies:
> 
> 
> Movie soundtracks are recorded with the .1 (LFE) channel 10db quieter than the rest of the channels. It is a receiver's job to increase the .1 channel by 10 db, when fed a Dolby or DTS signal. Some receivers do NOT apply this 10 db increase to PCM signals over HDMI, reproducing the bass much quieter than the rest of the soundtrack.
> 
> 
> Does the D2 properly boost the LFE channel through HDMI?



Yes. It did it correctly for DD and DTS bitstreams (as from standard DVDs) from the beginning. It did it correctly for PCM digital audio (as from HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players) starting with the V1.11 software release.

--Bob


----------



## hifisponge

Thanks Bob for the confirmation that the D2 boosts PCM LFE over HDMI.


As I wait for my D2 to arrive, I have another question regarding video. I have a Panasonic Plasma (1366 X 768 rez). How do I ensure that the TV doesn't reprocess the signal being sent from the D2? The TV will not accept its native rez over HDMI, only 720p, 1080i and 1080p (60Hz).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was going to say, I had one of those RCA HD Sat receivers back in the stone age (of HD)



I still have 3 of them. They are all on the *OBSOLETE* Shelf now










It was the 1st ever HD-TV Receiver - I had to have it.


But I have had 1080i in my Home Theater since January 1997.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I still have 3 of them. They are all on the *OBSOLETE* Shelf now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was the 1st ever HD-TV Receiver - I had to have it.



I'm with you, what a glorious thing HBO HD as the only npn-OTA channel it was into a rear projection unit for me. It was the first week out and I was already prewired to drop it in. Semi-good memories (not the part about falling off the ladder







)


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I read in another thread that it runs hotter with 1.8. Was your PS3 like this even before you upgraded to v1.8? I don't have a problem w/ heat, but I have about a foot of clearance above it.
> 
> 
> Maybe the heat is because the scaling is being done via software on its cell processors, as oppossed to dedicated hardware chips that do the scaling?



I finally bought a PS3 because of the new firmware 1.8. I was waiting for 1080p24. So I never used a PS3 with another firmware.


I bought a PS3 last week, and it was making alot of noise, and overheating. Even in the open, it was going to the 3rd fan speed in less then 20 seconds, even without playing a game or a movie!







So I was able to exchange it and try another one. The last one is really silent, and goes in the 3rd fan speed after 15-20 minutes in my rack while watching Blu-rays.


That one doesn't overheat and I never got the overheating message like the first one. But it's really HOT after 2-3 hours of movie watching.










My Samsung BD-P1200 is so much cooler...


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is NOT even the Noise - because that is INSIDE
> 
> a Rack.
> 
> 
> Tell me how you MOUNT a round box in a 2 dimensional
> 
> Right Angles - Rack with Front Panel access to the PS3.
> 
> 
> Then tell me how you integrate it into a CONTROL System.




My God, I think I've just found a replacement for Viagra!!!!!!!!!!!


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My God, I think I've just found a replacement for Viagra!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> Peter



Thanks Peter.


----------



## earwit

I have had no problems with my PS3 connected to the D2...

No heating problems,and minimal fan noise.

The Hdmi link to the D2 works great. (via 1.80)

Video is stunning with the D2 Genum Processor..

I have the PS3 on top of my A1, in my standard rack.


With the new version of BlueRay coming out shortly

(1.1) why would you spend more on a BR player??



We can only hope that the upcoming new HDMI

software re-write from Anthem is comparable and

handshakes as well as the PS3 does to the D2..



Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob for the confirmation that the D2 boosts PCM LFE over HDMI.
> 
> 
> As I wait for my D2 to arrive, I have another question regarding video. I have a Panasonic Plasma (1366 X 768 rez). How do I ensure that the TV doesn't reprocess the signal being sent from the D2? The TV will not accept its native rez over HDMI, only 720p, 1080i and 1080p (60Hz).



If your Panasonic really can't accept its native resolution, then there is no way to keep it from scaling the input signal from the D2 a second time. This is not so bad if you let the D2 do the de-interlacing and MOST of the scaling.


Usually your best bet for a 768p display (that can't accept its native resolution) is to send it 720p, since that's the closest you can get to the native resolution and will leave the display's scaler with the least amount of work to do. However some displays do odd things with 720p -- loss of sides of the picture due to overscan you can't get rid of for example. So it is also wise to check out 1080i for comparison. But 1080i means your display has to de-interlace AS WELL AS scale the signal to convert it to 768p. [Your plasma will accept 1080p, so check that out as well if you see problems with 720p.] But if you see no obvious, annoying problems with 720p, then stick with 720p.


That said, many Panasonic plasmas WILL accept their native resolution from the D2. It's just that the video timings they need are unusual, and aren't provided by the D2's built-in 768p resolution choice.


For those Panasonic plasmas you need to enter a Custom video resolution into the D2 using the Live Video Settings Editor application on a Windows computer (D2 software V1.10 or later). One Panasonic plasma owner published timings that worked with his plasma in this thread. The link to that post can be found towards the bottom of the collection of links in the first post in this thread. You only need the computer attached long enough to enter the Custom resolution into the D2. After that, your Custom resolution becomes another resolution choice you can make using the D2's Setup / Video Output menu.


So check that out and see if you actually CAN get your Panasonic plasma to accept its native resolution from the D2.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My God, I think I've just found a replacement for Viagra!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> Peter


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Just thought I would throw this out there for fellow D2/AVM50 owners: if you have a Blu-ray player, I highly recommend the Legends of Jazz disc as a great demo for your system. The HD video quality is excellent, and the sound quality is superb! It has a TrueHD track, but even the DD 5.1 track sounds great. Highly recommended (as long as you enjoy Jazz)!


----------



## hifisponge

Thanks again Bob. I did a little more research in the owner's manual of my Panny plasma and it WILL accept its native rez through DVI. I assume that since I currently use HDMI, I will need to pick up a HDMI to DVI adaptor?


Excuse my lack of knowledge in the area of video calibration, but what are "video timings"? I checked out the link to the Panny set-up in the first page of this thread, and I see a whole list of parameters. If those weren't published somewhere, how in the hell would anyone figure them out? The poster of those settings also says he takes no responsibility for "frying" your plasma. Is that a legitimate concern?


Also, I like to view 480i material stretched, but I prefer what is called a "justfied" stretch on my set, where the sides are stretched more than the center of the image. Does the D2 have this option?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob. I did a little more research in the owner's manual of my Panny plasma and it WILL accept its native rez through DVI. I assume that since I currently use HDMI, I will need to pick up a HDMI to DVI adaptor?
> 
> 
> Excuse my lack of knowledge in the area of video calibration, but what are "video timings"? I checked out the link to the Panny set-up in the first page of this thread, and I see a whole list of parameters. If those weren't published somewhere, how in the hell would anyone figure them out? The poster of those settings also says he takes no responsibility for "frying" your plasma. Is that a legitimate concern?
> 
> 
> Also, I like to view 480i material stretched, but I prefer what is called a "justfied" stretch on my set, where the sides are stretched more than the center of the image. Does the D2 have this option?



The stretch mode you are looking for in the D2 is Video Source Adjust (under the "7" key) / Scale Out / Panoramic. It may not be as extreme a non-uniform stretch as you are used to depending upon how your TV does it.


The video timings in that post will not damage your plasma (it was a joke). On the other hand, they may not work depending on whether Panasonic has made any changes. The worst that will happen is that your plasma rejects the input signal and gives you no picture. You should also try the built-in 1366x768p and 1360x768p settings in the D2. One or the other of those work with many 768p displays from other manufacturers.


The video signal is fairly complex. It's not as simple as specifying how many pixels across each line and how many lines. There are delays between lines and between the last line of one image and the first line of the next, and there are synchronizing signals that have to happen at the right time. All that is hidden from you when you use a "standard" resolution. But if you have a display like the Panasonic that has its own peculiar timing requirements, you have to specify all this stuff to get it to recognize its native resolution.


If you want to read more on this, read the links on Frame Rates and Custom Resolutions found in the first post of this thread.


Figuring out the right stuff here is complicated and usually requires some experiment if your display company doesn't publish them. I believe the poster of those settings found them in the Video Processor forum here for some other external video scaler.


If you decide to use your DVI input, I suggest you get an HDMI to DVI cable rather than putting an adapter at the end of an HDMI to HDMI cable. An adapter adds an extra point of connection that can weaken the signal. Using DVI input to the Panasonic may require you to specify Setup / Video Output / Data Format=RGB in the D2. In addition, look for a setting for the DVI input in your plasma that configures it for DVD or set top box use as opposed to computer or PC use (i.e., RGB as opposed to "Extended RGB). Read the links on Data Format in the first post here to understand why.


The plasma's DVI input has to also be HDCP (copy protection) compliant for this to work.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin

It seems like just last week we were celebrating the 6000th post, and here we are past 7000 already!


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *earwit* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have had no problems with my PS3 connected to the D2...
> 
> No heating problems,and minimal fan noise.



I just looked at your picture... Is it a closed and sealed rack? If so, do you have any fans blowing on it directly? How do you keep it cool?


Do you think I should exchange my PS3 a 3rd time since it's still really hot?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you decide to use your DVI input, I suggest you get an HDMI to DVI cable rather than putting an adapter at the end of an HDMI to HDMI cable.
> 
> --Bob



I am usially one to never disagree with the Master, but....


I think it has been proven that a higher end DVI adapter and a higher end HDMI cable is a much better combination than a good cable with two ends. I'm not a cable zealot but HD Pro DVI/HDMI cable causes many issues, and quality/price is good, but an Ultralink Platinum pro HDMI + an Ultralink connection never have 1080p quality issues (my projector is a 1080p DVI (yes, HDCP) input, and I can see a big difference.


----------



## nine ball

Alain,

If you still owned your 'Ruby' would you have gone some place other than Sony Style to get a bulb replacement? I'm planning a fairly hefty maintainance overhaul when the D2 final update comes out and have decided to update all my existing wiring at the same time. Now that the major stuff has been stabilized I think I can reverse all the interim wiring arrangements with the make do configurations I have been using to get by......like the component from the HP entertainment centre being replaced with the DVI to HDMI. I have almost 1500 hours on the Ruby and I'll swear another attribute to the credit of Anthem is that the D2 has actually made the aging bulb tolerable!!!!!!I can't seem to find any sources for replacement other than Sony.


Peter


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am usially one to never disagree with the Master, but....
> 
> 
> I think it has been proven that a higher end DVI adapter and a higher end HDMI cable is a much better combination than a good cable with two ends. I'm not a cable zealot but HD Pro DVI/HDMI cable causes many issues, and quality/price is good, but an Ultralink Platinum pro HDMI + an Ultralink connection never have 1080p quality issues (my projector is a 1080p DVI (yes, HDCP) input, and I can see a big difference.



I moved my system around this weekend, and went from a Acoustic research HDMI cable to a Blue Jeans HDMI cable, this was my my D2 to the 70 XBR2 and I don't know if it is just me, but the picture isn't as nice. The only thing that has changed is the location of the D2 to the TV, went from 2 feet to 10 feet, and the HDMI cable changed.


Any other ideas?


----------



## Expletive

I'm sure this has been discussed ad nauseum a few times in the course of the thread but is there going to be a D2 based on the newer, cooler, version of the gennum chip? My D2 along with the new-ish parasound A51 and now the 360 and PS3, my equipment room is getting QUITE toasty. I touched my D2 at the end of a movie sessionthe other night and forgot how hot it gets, ouch!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can't seem to find any sources for replacement other than Sony.
> 
> 
> Peter


 Here is One Source 


Also one of the AVS Moderators - Mark H---- ????


I'm not sure of his last name - I think Rob Tomlin told me about Mark?


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you decide to use your DVI input, I suggest you get an HDMI to DVI cable rather than putting an adapter at the end of an HDMI to HDMI cable. An adapter adds an extra point of connection that can weaken the signal. Using DVI input to the Panasonic may require you to specify Setup / Video Output / Data Format=RGB in the D2. In addition, look for a setting for the DVI input in your plasma that configures it for DVD or set top box use as opposed to computer or PC use (i.e., RGB as opposed to "Extended RGB). Read the links on Data Format in the first post here to understand why.
> 
> 
> The plasma's DVI input has to also be HDCP (copy protection) compliant for this to work.
> 
> --Bob



Wow, this sounds like it could be quite the project to get the native rex to my set. But then, if I can't get it to work, I'll just go with 720p out.


I'm afraid that it also looks like I have two potential hurdles ahead of me. The first is that my HDMI cable is in-wall, so I will have to use a DVI adaptor if I want to attempt native rez.


The other potential problem is that the DVI input on my TV is considered a PC input. Any tips on choosing the correct color output setting in the D2 if the TV only accepts native rez as a PC input signal?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> Here is One Source
> 
> 
> Also one of the AVS Moderators - Mark H---- ????
> 
> 
> I'm not sure of his last name - I think Rob Tomlin told me about Mark?



Mark Haflich?


He isn't a moderator at AVS. Just a dealer who posts here.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mark Haflich?
> 
> 
> He isn't a moderator at AVS. Just a dealer who posts here.



Yes that is the person.


Hopefully - Peter will see these posts.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow, this sounds like it could be quite the project to get the native rex to my set. But then, if I can't get it to work, I'll just go with 720p out.
> 
> 
> I'm afraid that it also looks like I have two potential hurdles ahead of me. The first is that my HDMI cable is in-wall, so I will have to use a DVI adaptor if I want to attempt native rez.
> 
> 
> The other potential problem is that the DVI input on my TV is considered a PC input. Any tips on choosing the correct color output setting in the D2 if the TV only accepts native rez as a PC input signal?



Go with the HDMI/DVI adapter then. It will probably work fine for you.


A DVI input intended for use with PCs probably wants "Extended RGB". See the Data Format posts (in this thread) I sent you to above for an explanation of what this is. Now setting the D2's Setup / Video Output / Data Format to "Extended RGB" means that you won't be able to pass "Blacker than Black" or "Peak White" data to your display. There are plenty of users that do things just this way, and are happier with the results because they can send true native resolution to the display and the gain from that trumps anything they might lose due to the cutoff of the data range.


Others have found that the Brightness and Contrast controls on their display have enough adjustment range that they can send "RGB" to their display and adjust it to work correctly. You may want to try it both ways to see which you prefer better. You will need to separately determine the best combo of Brightness and Contrast for each way before you can compare the imaging to see which way you prefer. My guess is you'll end up using Extended RGB.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer

For the Ruby lamp, you should also contact AVS.. they might be a good source for getting a lamp.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I moved my system around this weekend, and went from a Acoustic research HDMI cable to a Blue Jeans HDMI cable, this was my my D2 to the 70 XBR2 and I don't know if it is just me, but the picture isn't as nice. The only thing that has changed is the location of the D2 to the TV, went from 2 feet to 10 feet, and the HDMI cable changed.
> 
> 
> Any other ideas?



HDMI cable related problems are not subtle. A vague "not as nice" is unlikely to be a cable issue. 10 feet is not a lot of distance for HDMI -- even for 1080p.


Check all your settings for sources, the D2, and the TV to see if anything changed unexpectedly. If the TV has more than one HDMI input, make sure you are using the one you think you are using.


I presume your 70" set is a rear projection TV. If you moved it, it is possible that something shifted inside it. Sometimes these rear projection TVs just need a little time to settle internally after being moved. If it has an internal, geometry test image, bring that up to check.

--Bob


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Go with the HDMI/DVI adapter then. It will probably work fine for you.
> 
> 
> A DVI input intended for use with PCs probably wants "Extended RGB". See the Data Format posts (in this thread) I sent you to above for an explanation of what this is. Now setting the D2's Setup / Video Output / Data Format to "Extended RGB" means that you won't be able to pass "Blacker than Black" or "Peak White" data to your display. There are plenty of users that do things just this way, and are happier with the results because they can send true native resolution to the display and the gain from that trumps anything they might lose due to the cutoff of the data range.
> 
> 
> Others have found that the Brightness and Contrast controls on their display have enough adjustment range that they can send "RGB" to their display and adjust it to work correctly. You may want to try it both ways to see which you prefer better. You will need to separately determine the best combo of Brightness and Contrast for each way before you can compare the imaging to see which way you prefer. My guess is you'll end up using Extended RGB.
> 
> --Bob



Sorry for the barrage of questions. I will take the time to check out all of the collective information in the first post. All of these video parameters are just confusing to me right now.


----------



## LEVESQUE

There was an interesting post in the insider's thread here about HDMI, and HDMI 1.3 more particularly:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post10689558 


But the best part of that post was reading that even Amir, the insider from Microsoft, is using an Anthem D2!














I never saw that one coming!










Of all the pre/pros out there, that guy choosed the Anthem D2. Well, I'll be damned...


----------



## dseliger

Still waiting on my D2 from Anthem, anyone know if they got the line moving again? Ordered in April, getting anxious....


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There was an interesting post in the insider's thread here about HDMI, and HDMI 1.3 more particularly:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post10689558
> 
> 
> But the best part of that post was reading that even Amir, the insider from Microsoft, is using an Anthem D2!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never saw that one coming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all the pre/pros out there, that guy choosed the Anthem D2. Well, I'll be damned...



I was surprise by that too. Meanwhile is profile state an Lexicon MC12 but it may not have updated its profile recently. Another ex Lexicon owner swapping for an Anthem D2.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Still waiting on my D2 from Anthem, anyone know if they got the line moving again? Ordered in April, getting anxious....



My Anthem dealer told me that the delays in D2 production are due to a lack of video Gennum VXP boards. Since these are third party video boards, there is not too much that Anthem can do to speed up production and catch up on D2 backorders.


----------



## dseliger

Yea thats what i was told as well, but they were supposed to have gotten some in a week or two ago according to an email i got from Anthem.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For the Ruby lamp, you should also contact AVS.. they might be a good source for getting a lamp.



Thanks Mark, Rob and Hank.


its a good suggestion considering this environment. All things being equal I would like to support the boys at AVS. The Canadian dollar has been on such a streak lately that its brought a whole new level of energy to cross border shopping. It's almost par..........


I will call them tomorrow in the am.... Hank, I havent seen a price that good for the ruby anywhere.


Thank you all for the response.



Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hank, I havent seen a price that good for the ruby anywhere.
> 
> Peter



I agree - Give AVS a try.


But that is the BEST price I know of.


----------



## drhankz

I know this isn't the place but since *LEVESQUE* and I

where bantering back and forth last week about overheating

PS3's - I shipped mine into Sony in TX for repair or exchange.


I sent it out Friday - Next Day Air - It arrived this morning.


I just got a UPS tracking number from Sony - my replacement

unit shipped out tonight.


I must say that is as fast a turn-around as anyone can ask for.


Now we will just have to wait and see if this one WORKS any

better.


----------



## Ian_Currie

So I have a whacky question...


I was told tonight that one shouldn't use the HDMI inputs on the D2 for audio unless you were specifically playing an uncompressed track (or some other sound track that couldn't be carried by spdif or toslink) because HDMI degrades the quality of the sound. This is the first I've ever heard of this - any truth to it?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So I have a whacky question...
> 
> 
> I was told tonight that one shouldn't use the HDMI inputs on the D2 for audio unless you were specifically playing an uncompressed track (or some other sound track that couldn't be carried by spdif or toslink) because HDMI degrades the quality of the sound. This is the first I've ever heard of this - any truth to it?



Nope.


Anything that SPDIF connections can carry will work at the same quality over HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So I have a whacky question...
> 
> 
> I was told tonight that one shouldn't use the HDMI inputs on the D2 for audio unless you were specifically playing an uncompressed track (or some other sound track that couldn't be carried by spdif or toslink) because HDMI degrades the quality of the sound. This is the first I've ever heard of this - any truth to it?



Only if you're listening to music while wearing a tinfoil hat


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know this isn't the place but since *LEVESQUE* and I
> 
> where bantering back and forth last week about overheating
> 
> PS3's - I shipped mine into Sony in TX for repair or exchange.
> 
> 
> I sent it out Friday - Next Day Air - It arrived this morning.
> 
> 
> I just got a UPS tracking number from Sony - my replacement
> 
> unit shipped out tonight.
> 
> 
> I must say that is as fast a turn-around as anyone can ask for.
> 
> 
> Now we will just have to wait and see if this one WORKS any
> 
> better.



Actually Hank its far from out of place............For reasons of necessity I find I have to get a BD box and I am going to ask for advice that first has the highest recommendations for compatibility with the D2. Second will be future proof (my future with this stuff is never longer than 12 months! ) and hopefully performance doesn't have to take a back seat to the first two.

Finally I believe I am out of HDMI slots so either I have to by a second D2 or ..........yeccch does this ever end??????


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For reasons of necessity I find I have to get a BD box
> 
> 
> Finally I believe I am out of HDMI slots
> 
> 
> Peter



What is a BD box?


And you can't be OUT of HDMI ports.


Think about what devices need a HDMI Port.


I have two spare HDMI ports left over and I don't see anything

plugging into them in the future I can see


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is a BD box?
> 
> 
> And you can't be OUT of HDMI ports.



I guess BlueRay.


I have currently one SDDVD player, one Sat box, one HDDVD player, and an OTA tuner running HDMI/DVI.


I'm running the SDDVD player and the Sat box into the Algolith Flea HDMI noise reducer (which acts as a switcher between two inputs) so I still have one HDMI slot left on the AVM50.


I've considered the LG dual format player (which provides 1080p24 for both) so I'll still have one slot left after the HDDVD is taken out. OTOH, supposedly an improved model (fully functional for both formats) is around the corner.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess BlueRay.
> 
> 
> I have currently one SDDVD player, one Sat box, one HDDVD player, and an OTA tuner running HDMI/DVI.
> 
> 
> I'm running the SDDVD player and the Sat box into the Algolith Flea HDMI noise reducer (which acts as a switcher between two inputs) so I still have one HDMI slot left on the AVM50.



Everyone can choose to hook up as many boxes

that have HDMI outputs to your Anthem. BUT

DO THEY NEED to use HDMI just because they

have them.


My POINT IS - the only box of yours that needs to use

HDMI is the *HDDVD Player*. Nothing else HAS to be

connected via HDMI - it is your choice to use the other devices.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My POINT IS - the only box of yours that needs to use
> 
> HDMI is the *HDDVD Player*. Nothing else HAS to be
> 
> connected via HDMI - it is your choice to use the other devices.



The 480i via HDMI from the Oppo is noticeably better looking. Plus, my Flea only accepts HDMI. Additionally, I'd rather the AVM50 didn't have to transcode component back to HDMI as that's my only connection to the projector.


I agree with the spirit of your point re:component vs hdmi differences, but I'd say there certainly are potential advantages to an all digital signal path especially considering the average setup used with an AVM50/D2.


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So I have a whacky question...
> 
> 
> I was told tonight that one shouldn't use the HDMI inputs on the D2 for audio unless you were specifically playing an uncompressed track (or some other sound track that couldn't be carried by spdif or toslink) because HDMI degrades the quality of the sound. This is the first I've ever heard of this - any truth to it?



This probably has something to do with the claim that HDMI is more prone to jitter. Though I seem to recall that Levesque said that this was a non-issue with the D2 because the HDMI audio signal is reclocked by the D2?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This probably has something to do with the claim that HDMI is more prone to jitter. Though I seem to recall that Levesque said that this was a non-issue with the D2 because the HDMI audio signal is reclocked by the D2?



That's my understanding.


----------



## legacyrocks

How can I watch a video input - say Sat HDMI input and listen to another source - say Sirius sat radio optical audio input on my AVM 50? I want to have Sat tv on (video) but Sirius sat radio as my audio source at the same time. Can this be done?


Thanks.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legacyrocks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How can I watch a video input - say Sat HDMI input and listen to another source - say Sirius sat radio optical audio input on my AVM 50? I want to have Sat tv on (video) but Sirius sat radio as my audio source at the same time. Can this be done?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Well, I'm no expert, but it would seem you could use the layered approach. In other words, SAT1 = SAT + SAT audio, SAT2 = SAT + Sirius. Of course this would only work if you don't want to have more than a couple of choices (I do the same thing by the way - leave some sort of video on while listening to music). It would probably be nice to have the ability to separately choose audio and video, but I suspect there are very few of use that would take advantage of it (thus making it part of the "only if we fix everything else first" pile).


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legacyrocks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How can I watch a video input - say Sat HDMI input and listen to another source - say Sirius sat radio optical audio input on my AVM 50? I want to have Sat tv on (video) but Sirius sat radio as my audio source at the same time. Can this be done?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Yes. Off the top of my head, you could either go to source setup for that input and simply switch the audio input to that of Sirius or you could set up another dedicated input with the sat HDMI set as the video source and Sirius set as the audio. This would then allow you to switch on the fly. You could even set them up as SAT1 and SAT2 then toggle between by pressing the SAT input.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yea thats what i was told as well, but they were supposed to have gotten some in a week or two ago according to an email i got from Anthem.



The D2's are assembled and tested in the main factory in Mississauga, Ontario, CANADA and then shipped to Buffalo, NY, USA for shipment to your local dealer. So, between customs and the double shipping, you are looking at about a two week turnaround once the unit is assembled, tested and leaves the factory.


I recently sent my D2 back to Anthem for factory re-programming to correct a quirk (my D2 displayed itself as a D1-HD instead of a D2) since I upgraded the software to 1.08 via my McIntosh PowerBook and BootCamp via USB). It took about 7 days just to reprogram and test the D2, not counting any shipping time. They upgraded the power supply at the same time and checked out that my D2 is working perfectly.


It was really nice to receive it back ten days ago, because although I like 2 channel, I really missed the video and the audio capabilities of the D2.


Hopefully, yours will be in your listening/viewing room soon enough.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 480i via HDMI from the Oppo is noticeably better looking. Plus, my Flea only accepts HDMI. Additionally, I'd rather the AVM50 didn't have to transcode component back to HDMI as that's my only connection to the projector.
> 
> 
> I agree with the spirit of your point re:component vs hdmi differences, but I'd say there certainly are potential advantages to an all digital signal path especially considering the average setup used with an AVM50/D2.



I did a frame-by-frame comparison between Component-In

from one DVR and HDMI from an identical DVR. Even on a

13 Ft. Screen - I could not see the difference.


I don't have an Oppo with 480i HDMI output to compare

against - but I do have a high end SD DVD Player and the

Toshiba HD DVD and the Pioneer BDP-HD1 which will output

480i over HDMI.


I compared my three platforms with SD DVD and the

D2. I like the Toshiba HD DVD up-conversion to 1080i and

the the D2 up-conversion to 1080p the Best.


Rather than just use Movie Scenery to try and guess which

picture is best - I Use Digital Video Essentials HD DVD Combo

disc which has BOTH the HD and SD test patterns on it to

make my decision.


HD DVE would be a good test disc to run through your Oppo

to see what looks the best.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This probably has something to do with the claim that HDMI is more prone to jitter. Though I seem to recall that Levesque said that this was a non-issue with the D2 because the HDMI audio signal is reclocked by the D2?



The data is upsampled to 192kHz and the clock rebuilt in the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legacyrocks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How can I watch a video input - say Sat HDMI input and listen to another source - say Sirius sat radio optical audio input on my AVM 50? I want to have Sat tv on (video) but Sirius sat radio as my audio source at the same time. Can this be done?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



You can setup any of the normal or overlayed inputs so that the SAT HDMI video is sent to the Scaler and and the Sirius Optical is used as the audio input. You do this in Setup / Source Select. If the audio you want to use is the pair of RCA stereo jacks for some input, then you must do this in the Setup / Source Select menu for one of the overlayed inputs of the same name as that pair of jacks since that's how you specify you are using that analog stereo audio input jack pair. But the Optical and Coax inputs can each be assigned to any input, or set of inputs, regardless of name. I.e., there's no problem assigning that Sirius optical input jack to this combo input definition with your SAT HDMI video and ALSO assigning the same Sirius optical input jack to some other input definition as well.


Alternatively you can use the Simulcast feature via the remote control if you would rather not dedicate an input to this function. Select one input and then temporarily replace its audio with audio from a second input. See page 46 of the V1.1x users manual.


There's one important caveat in both of these methods. The audio that comes in on an HDMI cable can ONLY be used with the HDMI video from that same cable.


Now you can use any HDMI video feed with audio from any other (non-HDMI) audio feed (which is what you want to do with your SAT video and Sirius audio), but an HDMI audio feed can only be used with the HDMI video coming in on that same cable. This is because HDMI audio is not a separate signal but is actually multiplexed into the blanking intervals of the HDMI video signal. Using the HDMI audio involves "processing" the HDMI video, and the D2 only processes one video stream at a time.

--Bob


----------



## legacyrocks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You can setup any of the normal or overlayed inputs so that the SAT HDMI video is sent to the Scaler and and the Sirius Optical is used as the audio input. You do this in Setup / Source Select. If the audio you want to use is the pair of RCA stereo jacks for some input, then you must do this in the Setup / Source Select menu for one of the overlayed inputs of the same name as that pair of jacks since that's how you specify you are using that analog stereo audio input jack pair. But the Optical and Coax inputs can each be assigned to any input, or set of inputs, regardless of name. I.e., there's no problem assigning that Sirius optical input jack to this combo input definition with your SAT HDMI video and ALSO assigning the same Sirius optical input jack to some other input definition as well.
> 
> 
> Alternatively you can use the Simulcast feature via the remote control if you would rather not dedicate an input to this function. Select one input and then temporarily replace its audio with audio from a second input. See page 46 of the V1.1x users manual.
> 
> 
> There's one important caveat in both of these methods. The audio that comes in on an HDMI cable can ONLY be used with the HDMI video from that same cable.
> 
> 
> Now you can use any HDMI video feed with audio from any other (non-HDMI) audio feed (which is what you want to do with your SAT video and Sirius audio), but an HDMI audio feed can only be used with the HDMI video coming in on that same cable. This is because HDMI audio is not a separate signal but is actually multiplexed into the blanking intervals of the HDMI video signal. Using the HDMI audio involves "processing" the HDMI video, and the D2 only processes one video stream at a time.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Joe c5, cpcat, and Bob.


----------



## runnerlk

I am looking at bi-amping my mains, they are Von Schweikert and according to Albert they shine when bi-amped. So I am trying to decide whether to use my unbalanced out and add a Y adapter or keep my unbalanced the way they are and use the balanced as well? Are there any compelling reasons to do either scenario? I would be using my B&K for the woofers and my Rogue for the M/T.


any input would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,


Lou


----------



## venpra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This probably has something to do with the claim that HDMI is more prone to jitter. Though I seem to recall that Levesque said that this was a non-issue with the D2 because the HDMI audio signal is reclocked by the D2?



Does an AVM-50 "reclock" the audio signal similar to the way a D2 does it?


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For the Ruby lamp, you should also contact AVS.. they might be a good source for getting a lamp.



Thank You. You were right and it was a terrific recommendation. I can't believe how well they responded to my request. They are not only knowledgable, Alan has one and helped me personally. The cost was fair and certainly competitive and the indications are that the service attitude is comparable if not superior to the traditional high end CI's. So far a great experience and an opportunity to support AVS.


Thanks for the suggestion and Hank as well.


Peter


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am looking at bi-amping my mains, they are Von Schweikert and according to Albert they shine when bi-amped. So I am trying to decide whether to use my unbalanced out and add a Y adapter or keep my unbalanced the way they are and use the balanced as well? Are there any compelling reasons to do either scenario? I would be using my B&K for the woofers and my Rogue for the M/T.
> 
> 
> any input would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Lou



I use balanced Y-cables. Depending on the amp design, it may not make a difference in SQ but it certainly does in noise rejection.


I wouldn't mix/match the balanced/unbalanced for this as the voltage gain will not be matched.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Guys,


A while back someone posted about some HDMI Cable Dongles that reduce the stress on the D2 HDMI ports for instance, by offering a flexible connector that would hang down from the D2 ports, then allow the HDMI cable to be connected to it.


I cannot remember the manufacturer nor can I find the thread.


Can someone point me in the right direction?


Thanks,

Brian


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> 
> A while back someone posted about some HDMI Cable Dongles that reduce the stress on the D2 HDMI ports for instance, by offering a flexible connector that would hang down from the D2 ports, then allow the HDMI cable to be connected to it.
> 
> 
> I cannot remember the manufacturer nor can I find the thread.
> 
> 
> Can someone point me in the right direction?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brian


I CAN NOT REMEMBER EITHER [GRIN]


But I'll bet clicking above gets you there


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> I CAN NOT REMEMBER EITHER [GRIN]
> 
> 
> But I'll bet clicking above gets you there



These wound up being even more popular in this thread than I thought they would! I really do think these are a good idea, and mine work perfectly.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> I CAN NOT REMEMBER EITHER [GRIN]
> 
> 
> But I'll bet clicking above gets you there



Thanks Hank, I'm gonna give these a shot...I'd like to preserve the D2 ports for long term health, just not sure if these will negatively impact the PQ (or SQ for that matter).


Thanks again,

Brian


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Hank, I'm gonna give these a shot...I'd like to preserve the D2 ports for long term health, just not sure if these will negatively impact the PQ (or SQ for that matter).
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Brian



I DOUBT IT - too short to have any PQ effect.


I bought about 30 of them so that I have them in-stock


----------



## reedrothchild299

Hi


I recently bought an Anthem D1 and have a question about connection to my Denon 2930ci dvd player. I previously had a Pioneer VSX 47TX receiver and when I used the analog out from the Denon to the receiver instead of the digital out there was much better sound quality. I am assuming this is because the Denon has superior DACS, would this also be the better choice when connecting it to the D1?


Thanks for any help..


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I use balanced Y-cables. Depending on the amp design, it may not make a difference in SQ but it certainly does in noise rejection.
> 
> 
> I wouldn't mix/match the balanced/unbalanced for this as the voltage gain will not be matched.



thanks cpcat.


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Hank, I'm gonna give these a shot...I'd like to preserve the D2 ports for long term health, just not sure if these will negatively impact the PQ (or SQ for that matter).
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Brian




HDMI is a digital interface, you will either get a perfect picture or no picture. The only picture quality type issue you could experience would related to signal drop out but I would not consider that a picture quality issue. If this was an analog connection like component video, adding length or interconnects reduces the amount of signal thus reducing picture quality.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> 
> A while back someone posted about some HDMI Cable Dongles that reduce the stress on the D2 HDMI ports for instance, by offering a flexible connector that would hang down from the D2 ports, then allow the HDMI cable to be connected to it.
> 
> 
> I cannot remember the manufacturer nor can I find the thread.
> 
> 
> Can someone point me in the right direction?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brian



I use the "Next Generation Mini Copperhead Stress Relief Cable". I use them on my D2 as well as on my source devices. They work well.


See:

http://estore.websitepros.com/1373698/Detail.bok?no=6


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reedrothchild299* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> I recently bought an Anthem D1 and have a question about connection to my Denon 2930ci dvd player. I previously had a Pioneer VSX 47TX receiver and when I used the analog out from the Denon to the receiver instead of the digital out there was much better sound quality. I am assuming this is because the Denon has superior DACS, would this also be the better choice when connecting it to the D1?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help..



I would recommend using the digital outputs. Unless you use the Analog direct inputs (which bypass all circuitry, robbing you of potentially some valuable features like bass management and speaker compensation/delay), the D1 will convert to digital anyway. The DACs in my D2 (I assume the same or similar) are top shelf DACs - the only way I'd expect better is with a dedicated DAC such as Apogee, Benchmark etc.


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reedrothchild299* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> I recently bought an Anthem D1 and have a question about connection to my Denon 2930ci dvd player. I previously had a Pioneer VSX 47TX receiver and when I used the analog out from the Denon to the receiver instead of the digital out there was much better sound quality. I am assuming this is because the Denon has superior DACS, would this also be the better choice when connecting it to the D1?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help..




The specs on the DACs and analoge stage in the D1 are far superior to that of the Denon. I would recommend using the digital out from the Denon player. However, better specs do not always equal better sound quality, so you should still try out the analog outputs.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I know this must be simple but I have a few SACD's around and when I tried to play them from my Denon 2900 digital out to the D2 I don't get sound. The SACD light comes on on the Denon.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know this must be simple but I have a few SACD's around and when I tried to play them from my Denon 2900 digital out to the D2 I don't get sound. The SACD light comes on on the Denon.
> 
> 
> Thanks



If by "digital out" you mean optical or coax cable, then no, that can't work. Those cables can't carry the high bandwidth SACD digital audio signal.


HDMI V1.1 (as in the D2) can carry it, but only if the player converts the 1-bit SACD stream to multi-channel, high bandwidth PCM for that HDMI output. Some players do this (the Oppo) but not all. In addition, the video output resolution of the player has to be set to 720p or higher during SACD (or DVD-Audio) playback over HDMI for this to work correctly.

--Bob


----------



## reedrothchild299




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would recommend using the digital outputs. Unless you use the Analog direct inputs (which bypass all circuitry, robbing you of potentially some valuable features like bass management and speaker compensation/delay), the D1 will convert to digital anyway. The DACs in my D2 (I assume the same or similar) are top shelf DACs - the only way I'd expect better is with a dedicated DAC such as Apogee, Benchmark etc.



I was using the analog direct inputs with pioneer and it just sounded so much better. Maybe this was also because the pioneer processed the hell out of the signal when using digital (THX requalization, room calibration, ect).


----------



## cosmos5861

I have a panasonic 50PHD8UK. I want to get the AVM50. I know I need to connect via DVI to make this work on my plasma. Any other settings do I need to worry about? Has anyone here has the same setup? Any feedback or hints would be great. Thank you


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reedrothchild299* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was using the analog direct inputs with pioneer and it just sounded so much better. Maybe this was also because the pioneer processed the hell out of the signal when using digital (THX requalization, room calibration, ect).



The Pioneer digital and analog signal paths are not in the same league as the Anthems. So it's probably futile to try to forecast based on the Pioneer.


You should try them both if possible. I am pretty demanding of my audio gear, and I'm ecstatic with the quality I get using HDMI in.


----------



## reedrothchild299




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Pioneer digital and analog signal paths are not in the same league as the Anthems. So it's probably futile to try to forecast based on the Pioneer.
> 
> 
> You should try them both if possible. I am pretty demanding of my audio gear, and I'm ecstatic with the quality I get using HDMI in.



Yeah I thought that would be the case, I will try them both and see what the results are. What processing do you use with movies? Do you use THX or any of Anthem's processing or just leave all of off?


----------



## Need4spdnb

This has been a most informative thread, and I have only read the last few pages.









Just got my D2 in last night, so I will be hooking it up today. Ordered it on April 25th and got it on June 6th for anyone interested in the delay they are looking at right now. Can't wait to hear the difference between the D2 and my B&K507.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Need4spdnb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This has been a most informative thread, and I have only read the last few pages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got my D2 in last night, so I will be hooking it up today. Ordered it on April 25th and got it on June 6th for anyone interested in the delay they are looking at right now. Can't wait to hear the difference between the D2 and my B&K507.



New Owners Deserve a Anthem Mascot


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a panasonic 50PHD8UK. I want to get the AVM50. I know I need to connect via DVI to make this work on my plasma. Any other settings do I need to worry about? Has anyone here has the same setup? Any feedback or hints would be great. Thank you



Check out the info posts in this thread linked off the the first post in this thread.


The most common problem for people using DVI displays is that they have to explicitly set Setup / Video Output / Data Format = RGB. The "Auto" setting doesn't work for them. The symptom if you need to do this is that your video is Shocking Pink.


Also see if your DVI input has a configuration option to set it for "DVD or set top box" use as opposed to "computer or PC". This is equivalent to setting it to expect "RGB" data format as opposed to "Extended RGB". You want the "DVD or set top box" setting. If your DVI input has no such adjustment, but is described as *NOT* being intended for use with computers, then that's good also.


And of course your DVI input has to be HDCP (copy protection) compliant to work with home theater equipment like the Anthem.


The Panasonic 768p plasmas have typically had problems when folks try to feed them their "native resolution" -- i.e., 1366x768p/60Hz. These Panasonics need unusual video timing settings to make this work. One of the posts linked in that first post here includes Custom Resolution values for the Anthem that have apparently worked for other Panasonic owners.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Need4spdnb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This has been a most informative thread, and I have only read the last few pages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got my D2 in last night, so I will be hooking it up today. Ordered it on April 25th and got it on June 6th for anyone interested in the delay they are looking at right now. Can't wait to hear the difference between the D2 and my B&K507.



Be sure to check out the various info posts in this thread that are collected in links in the first post in this thread -- sometimes called, "The Good Parts Version".


At the very least, you want to read the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reedrothchild299* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah I thought that would be the case, I will try them both and see what the results are. What processing do you use with movies? Do you use THX or any of Anthem's processing or just leave all of off?



I am using THX Ultra 2 on all my multichannel movie/digital TV sources, with no additional processing. Once you get the proper speaker levels and delays, as well as the subwoofer settings, it is fantastically immersive.


For two channel (even music), I've been playing around with the Anthem processing. It's quite good, and it doesn't mess with the stereo imaging as far as I can tell.


By default, the sources appear to come with PLIIx processing ON. This is unecessary and overprocessed in most cases. For me, I enjoy the THX better - very subtle - and more like tuning the system than processing the sound.


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Need4spdnb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This has been a most informative thread, and I have only read the last few pages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got my D2 in last night, so I will be hooking it up today. Ordered it on April 25th and got it on June 6th for anyone interested in the delay they are looking at right now. Can't wait to hear the difference between the D2 and my B&K507.



I order mine on the first week of May and my local dealer is telling me three more weeks. unfortunate for me I am still using my Denon 2801. My dealer does have my A5 ready. I wonder if there is any value using the A5 with my 2801?


----------



## tbui57

Hi,


My basement is finished (open space), and I am working on a HT system

from scratch.


I am thinking of the following equipments:


- sharp vision XV-Z20000, or JVC RS1, or Sony Pearl

- Anthem AVM50 (pre-pro) with B&K 125-7 (amp)

- Dynaudio speakers & subwoofer

- 100" projector screen (carada, criterion fixed screen)


I would like to hear your opinion and suggestion, and what to watch for.


Levesque, I would appreciate your opinion on the JVC-RS1 with AVM50.

Please PM me with the places in Montreal where I can audit the equipment.


Thanks a million.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I order mine on the first week of May and my local dealer is telling me three more weeks. unfortunate for me I am still using my Denon 2801. My dealer does have my A5 ready. I wonder if there is any value using the A5 with my 2801?



Well if nothing else you can get the A5 installed and tested ahead of time. That way if by some chance theres a problem with it, you can get it resolved in time for your D2. I know its a very negative way to approach the situation but such is life in higher end A/V.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> My basement is finished (open space), and I am working on a HT system
> 
> from scratch.
> 
> 
> I am thinking of the following equipments:
> 
> 
> - sharp vision XV-Z20000, or JVC RS1, or Sony Pearl



No to Sharp.


Either of the other two PJs are good Choices.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> - sharp vision XV-Z20000, or JVC RS1, or Sony Pearl



With a smaller then 100'' screen, and a totally black room (for that killer AINSI CR!), the Sharp 20K is also a REALLY good choice. It's too dim for anything bigger... The RS1 is a better choice over the Pearl IMHO.


Some QAV members did a Sharp 20K, HD-1 and Pearl shoot-out in Montreal a couple of weeks ago, and the HD-1 was the "winner" for the overall performance, but by a small margin only...


BTW, the HD-1 is ALOT easier to find up here. The RS-1 is in short supply, but since they are eactly the same projector, go with the HD-1...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Levesque, I would appreciate your opinion on the JVC-RS1 with AVM50.
> 
> Please PM me with the places in Montreal where I can audit the equipment.



There is alot of people I know in Montreal that could show you those toys if you want. I think that almost all the reviewers at the magazine QAV are now using the D2 or the AVM50 (there is a convincing reviewer in there...







), so one of those could easily show you those nice set-ups if you ask them.


If you speak french a little bit, just come see us at the QAV forum (french forum), where there is alot of D2/AVM50, Pearl and HD-1 owners in or near Montreal:

http://www.quebecaudio.com/forums/in...p?showforum=12 


But if you don't mind doing a little trip by car, it would be my pleasure to show you those in action in my room.







I'm doing ALOT of demos at my place for my dealer and for people building dedicated rooms, so I'm confortable with doing that. My room is an eye-opener for alot of people about room treatment... And everyone is always telling me that they didn't knew the Anthem/Paradigm Signature set-up could sound so good, since it's always badly set-up in dealer's showroom... "Night and day differences" is what people are telling me... Or "it's not the same set-up I heard at my dealer, I can't believe it!"... And all the 1080p nay-sayer (you know the type... 1080p is not better then standard DVDs...) are ALL converted after visiting me.










So come see us at the QAV forum, or drop me a PM if you want to come see and hear my set-up. It will be a pleasure.


----------



## tbui57

Thanks Levesque. I go to Montreal very often, and would like to visit you for a chance to see and hear the best gears. Thanks again for the PM. I will send you PM when I will be in Montreal again, probably in July.

Tung


----------



## kal

Alain/Tung,


If ever a demonstration session does present itself (and you don't mind someone else tagging along Alain!) I'd love to give your setup a listen as well. If you remember, I bought a complete set of Signatures speakers (S8/C5/ADP) last year with your help and am looking at adding a D1/P5 combo sometime soon as well!


I own Mondial Designs Acurus stuff now (ACT-3 pre-pro, A200x3 amp for fronts, A100x2 amp for backs) and am really interested in hearing what the D1/2 + P5 combo can do with Signatures in a *nicely* set up room (something to aspire to since my room's not ideal).


I own a (reasonably) high-end CRT projector myself but am always interested in what's going on in the fixed-pixel display technologies as well.










Kal


----------



## LEVESQUE

tbui57 and Kal.


It would be a real pleasure if you want to visit me both in july. But I'm living at 5 hours up north of Montreal.







For me it's a small trip (I'm going to Montreal 1 or 2 times a month), but for some it's a long trip...










Alot of people are doing a one-day trip to my place. They stay here 5-6 hours usually, then I have to kick them out of here since they don't want to leave!


----------



## THX Mode

I went with the Pearl (looked at the RS-1 and Epson 1080p - ISF one, and Pearl side by side).


I found the Pearl and JVC were better to me, in terms of film-like picture.


But the RS-1 (and Epson) Fan noise automatically cut them from my list.


Make sure you audition!


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It would be a real pleasure if you want to visit me both in july. But I'm living at 5 hours up north of Montreal.



Oops! Sorry Alain! I figured you were just outside of Montreal (about an hour or two from me). Thanks anyway!


Kal


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX Mode* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But the RS-1 (and Epson) Fan noise automatically cut them from my list.



I totally agree. The Pearl/Ruby is more silent then the JVC. And in high lamp mode, it's worst!










My JVC is behind a floated glass behind the back wall of my room, so I don't hear it at all. But it's alot noisier then my Ruby was...


Be sure to audition before buying!


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX Mode* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I went with the Pearl (looked at the RS-1 and Epson 1080p - ISF one, and Pearl side by side).
> 
> 
> I found the Pearl and JVC were better to me, in terms of film-like picture.
> 
> 
> But the RS-1 (and Epson) Fan noise automatically cut them from my list.
> 
> 
> Make sure you audition!



I know what you mean. My current projector is almost right above my head. At the time I got it, its fan noise was average or lower than average as compared to other projectors. I do find it distracting during quiet scenes when the dialog isn't too loud (but I don't want to turn up the volume much more since the very next scene can have very loud sound effects .... the beauty of a wide dynamic range I suppose ).. I've been itching to upgrade my projector (a Marantz VP-12S3 720P) for a while now, but haven't found the ideal one for me yet. I first thought Ruby was it (though bulb is quitey expensive), then the Pearl came out, then the RS-1 came out, but its fan is louder than the previous two (and don't think it has VGA input, which would be nice for me). I suppose I can wait just a little longer....

If you want to know what's the next great projector to get in the future, just tune in to Levesque's equipment list (seems the projector of choise changes every couple of months







).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I was just checking to see if there was perhaps a new D2 manual up on the Anthem web site in preparation for the next software release (there isn't) and noticed that the current manual's download file now has a newer date. I can't spot any changes in this May 17, 2007, dated version compared to the prior November 21, 2006, dated version except:


* The downloaded file name has changed to "V1_1x", from "V1.1x"


* The new file is 79 bytes shorter.


* The author's name no longer appears in the PDF's file info.


--Bob (...the things we do while waiting for a new software release...) P.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was just checking to see if there was perhaps a new D2 manual up on the Anthem web site in preparation for the next software release (there isn't) and noticed that the current manual's download file now has a newer date. I can't spot any changes in this May 17, 2007, dated version compared to the prior November 21, 2006, dated version except:
> 
> 
> * The downloaded file name has changed to "V1_1x", from "V1.1x"
> 
> 
> * The new file is 79 bytes shorter.
> 
> 
> * The author's name no longer appears in the PDF's file info.
> 
> 
> --Bob (...the things we do while waiting for a new software release...) P.










Yes, I've been keeping busy with ordering room treatment, measuring for permanent seating, actually watching movies







but I still find time to check this thread at least twice a day...


This "hobby" really brings out the OCD tendencies... I see I'm not the only one!


----------



## audioNeil

I have a D1 that I hope to upgrade to a D2 (D1-HD I guess). I expect to be using in on the new 60" Pioneer Plasma Elite Pro-150HD when it comes out.


However, I'm wondering if it is worth it to bother with the D2. For now, I'm going with HD-DVD as my source. I only have the HD-A1, but I will get an XA2 if Toshiba gets their 24Hz software update done.


I really want 24-Hz support. In fact, I would like to have regular DVDs somehow turned into 24-Hz output. Hey, why not movies with 3:2 cadence from TV?


The Pioneer panel has pretty good 24 Hz support, but I doubt it even fixes 3:2 cadence on 1080i60 sources (though it might!??). I have read some things in this forum that 24Hz support on the Anthem isn't quite working yet? Or, it is in a latest software update, but that breaks support for Toshiba's HD-DVD players?


I'm just wondering if the Anthem D2's software is simply not ready for me. Perhaps I should go with direct signals from HD-DVD or BluRay, and stick with analog audio into my D1 ?


If anyone understands the D2 software roadmap, please help me understand if the D2 is ready yet -- or should I wait for all the problems to be ironed out? Will it ever give me 24Hz output on i60 sources? Will it work properly with 24P all sources (of course, I could just send these to the panel if it weren't for the need to strip off the audio)?


Thanks,

Neil


----------



## cosmos5861




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *markalston* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Just got my panny 50" 9uk hung on the wall and really want to get NR working on this panel. Not to rehash old nastiness but the one guy I know of who was trying to get this to work gave up and returned his D2.
> 
> 
> [edit]
> 
> 
> Just got it working. Found a helpful post in another scallers thread. So far it has been stable for 45 seconds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll followup on the stability later.
> 
> 
> Since 1366x768 pannys are one of the most popular plasmas around I thought I'd post my settings:
> 
> 
> Horizontal Size Total: 1794
> 
> Horizontal Size Active: 1366
> 
> Horzontal Sync Start: 24
> 
> Horizontal Sync End: 272
> 
> Vertical Size Total: 806
> 
> Vertical Size Active: 768
> 
> Vertical Sync Start: 3
> 
> Vertical Sync End: 4
> 
> Field Active Size: 768
> 
> Field Black Size 37
> 
> Offset: 0
> 
> Pixel Clock Rate: 86750000
> 
> 
> However, these settings have only been tested for 2-3 minutes so far so I take no responsibility for you frying your plasma, losing your wife/husband and kids, or any other misbehavior.
> 
> 
> Mark Alston



Can someone confirm this works? and also how to you manually add settings?


----------



## kmr_269

Hey Guys,


Just traded my AVM-20 for an AVM- 50. Has anyone seen an issue with lipsync kicking in by itself? After watching cable tv from a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD for a few hours the lipsync kicked in. I checked the input and the lipsync was still set to 0. The only way to reset was to turn off and on again. This has happened twice today, the first time freaking my wife out!


Thanks,

Keith


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can someone confirm this works? and also how to you manually add settings?



I can't confirm that it works. I've sent several Panasonic owners to that post but haven't gotten any feedback, positive or negative, as to whether or not they had success.


These settings define a Custom Resolution for the Anthem. You load them into the Anthem by using the Live Video Settings Editor application (V1.10 or later) on a Windows computer connected to the Anthem by a serial cable -- the same setup you use for installing new firmware in the Anthem. The Anthem also has to be running firmware V1.10 or later. After you've loaded them in, the Custom Resolution becomes accessible in the the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu just like the built-in resolutions.


DRHANKZ has a post linked in that same portion of the first post here that talks about the steps to set this up in Live Video Settings Editor for his Sony projector -- except that he was using a pre-defined Custom Resolution rather than entering all the settings explicitly.


If you are interested in what these settings mean (since they aren't really documented anywhere) check out my analysis in the Frame Rate and Custom Resolution posts also linked in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioNeil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a D1 that I hope to upgrade to a D2 (D1-HD I guess). I expect to be using in on the new 60" Pioneer Plasma Elite Pro-150HD when it comes out.
> 
> 
> However, I'm wondering if it is worth it to bother with the D2. For now, I'm going with HD-DVD as my source. I only have the HD-A1, but I will get an XA2 if Toshiba gets their 24Hz software update done.
> 
> 
> I really want 24-Hz support. In fact, I would like to have regular DVDs somehow turned into 24-Hz output. Hey, why not movies with 3:2 cadence from TV?
> 
> 
> The Pioneer panel has pretty good 24 Hz support, but I doubt it even fixes 3:2 cadence on 1080i60 sources (though it might!??). I have read some things in this forum that 24Hz support on the Anthem isn't quite working yet? Or, it is in a latest software update, but that breaks support for Toshiba's HD-DVD players?
> 
> 
> I'm just wondering if the Anthem D2's software is simply not ready for me. Perhaps I should go with direct signals from HD-DVD or BluRay, and stick with analog audio into my D1 ?
> 
> 
> If anyone understands the D2 software roadmap, please help me understand if the D2 is ready yet -- or should I wait for all the problems to be ironed out? Will it ever give me 24Hz output on i60 sources? Will it work properly with 24P all sources (of course, I could just send these to the panel if it weren't for the need to strip off the audio)?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Neil



If having the D2 convert all source material into 24fps is your primary reason for wanting a D2, then I would look for another alternative, maybe a VP50. I get 24fps to my RS1 through the D2 via my Pioneer BDP HD1, but I can get it also directly from the Pioneer to the RS1. It will probably be a least several months before the D2 firmware will be revised to perform inverse telecine.


Anthems agenda at this point is to develop a firmware that works well with most of the other popular equipment being used today without glitches. HDMI has been a huge problem for Anthem and everyone else. The room equalization package is also a high priority.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kmr_269* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> 
> Just traded my AVM-20 for an AVM- 50. Has anyone seen an issue with lipsync kicking in by itself? After watching cable tv from a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD for a few hours the lipsync kicked in. I checked the input and the lipsync was still set to 0. The only way to reset was to turn off and on again. This has happened twice today, the first time freaking my wife out!
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Keith



We haven't had any reports here of lipsync processing turning on unexpectedly. Keep in mind that in addition to the default setting you specify in Setup / Source Setup, it is also possible to alter lip-sync (perhaps accidentally) using the remote control -- under the "8" key.


However cable and satellite providers sometimes have problems in the signal they send out. DirecTV is notorious for this for example. A typical symptom of incoming signal problems would be if video happens BEFORE the audio -- meaning you'd have to speed up the audio, rather than delay it, to correct things. Thus you get the impression that unwanted lipsync delay has been added in. In reality the signal is screwed up before it ever gets to you.


I don't recall hearing of any specific problems with the 8300 related to this.


How do you have the 8300 connected to the AVM50 for audio and for video? Does the problem happen only with 5.1 audio TV programs or also with stereo audio TV programs?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioNeil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a D1 that I hope to upgrade to a D2 (D1-HD I guess). I expect to be using in on the new 60" Pioneer Plasma Elite Pro-150HD when it comes out.
> 
> 
> However, I'm wondering if it is worth it to bother with the D2. For now, I'm going with HD-DVD as my source. I only have the HD-A1, but I will get an XA2 if Toshiba gets their 24Hz software update done.
> 
> 
> I really want 24-Hz support. In fact, I would like to have regular DVDs somehow turned into 24-Hz output. Hey, why not movies with 3:2 cadence from TV?
> 
> 
> The Pioneer panel has pretty good 24 Hz support, but I doubt it even fixes 3:2 cadence on 1080i60 sources (though it might!??). I have read some things in this forum that 24Hz support on the Anthem isn't quite working yet? Or, it is in a latest software update, but that breaks support for Toshiba's HD-DVD players?
> 
> 
> I'm just wondering if the Anthem D2's software is simply not ready for me. Perhaps I should go with direct signals from HD-DVD or BluRay, and stick with analog audio into my D1 ?
> 
> 
> If anyone understands the D2 software roadmap, please help me understand if the D2 is ready yet -- or should I wait for all the problems to be ironed out? Will it ever give me 24Hz output on i60 sources? Will it work properly with 24P all sources (of course, I could just send these to the panel if it weren't for the need to strip off the audio)?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Neil



24Hz support is not great right now. Some folks have had success with 1080p/24 input to 1080p/24 output, but not all. 1080i/60 (or 480i/60) input to 1080p/24 output -- desireable when watching film-based content that's embedded in a video rate stream -- is not working right now for anyone.


The V1.12 software, just now in field testing, is reported to have fixed various problems in 1080p/24 to 1080p/24. This is certainly progress.


It is not yet clear whether that software will also fix 1080i/60 (or 480i/60) to 1080p/24.


Anthem has been giving hints that that software will be in general release within a few weeks. Your best bet is probably to keep an eye on this thread for reports on 24Hz support once that software is released. It is very likely 24Hz support is one of the first things posters here will try and will report on.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 24Hz support is not great right now. Some folks have had success with 1080p/24 input to 1080p/24 output, but not all. 1080i/60 (or 480i/60) input to 1080p/24 output -- desireable when watching film-based content that's embedded in a video rate stream -- is not working right now for anyone.
> 
> 
> The V1.12 software, just now in field testing, is reported to have fixed various problems in 1080p/24 to 1080p/24. This is certainly progress.
> 
> 
> It is not yet clear whether that software will also fix 1080i/60 (or 480i/60) to 1080p/24.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Actually with 1.12n firmware 1080p/24 to 1080p/24 works fairly well. For my equipment this firmware works very well, but there are glitches with some of the inputs I don't use and with some other equipment. There is an occasional glitch with the pink screen on the XA2 at startup. Switching to a different source and switching back corrects it in about 5 seconds. This software does not work correctly for 1080i/60 (or 480i/60) to 1080p/24.


In talking to Nick at Athem, I get the idea that they want to get everything working with the most poplar equipment essentially glitch free before a new official firmware version is released. It sounded to me like there are still quite a few problems to work out. The inverse telecine will not be a high priority until they get all the rest fixed.


I had my doubts about the VP50 doing the inverse telecine without problems, but there are people using it who say it works perfect.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioNeil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I really want 24-Hz support.



I think you misunderstand the whole 24fps thing.

*1) It is Not a Holly Grail.


2) Picture Quality is NOT BETTER at 24fps.
*

3) 24 fps has only ONE benefit and that ONLY comes

if the source material is 24 fps. Now new HD Movies

are 1080p/24 on the disc.


NOPE PQ comes from the resolution which is 1080p.

Therefore watching a movie at 1080p/24, 1080p/48

1080p/50, 1080p/60 is ALL IDENTICAL.


Why is 24fps better?


If the source is 24 fps - because of something called

judder and judder only occurs in rapid movement

scenes. Most people can't even see the judder.

Others who are more interested in FINDING

the judder rather than enjoying the movie sit and

LOOK for it. It is subtle.


Other material like TV which is 30 or 60 fps look better

at that resolution.


So 24fps is not the holly grail.


What is the Holly Grail is LESS PROCESSING is BETTER.


If the material is HD already - less processing is better.

Trying to convert a HD 60fps source to HD 24fps is making

things worse not better.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I just opened my email to find a mail from Nick with a attachment of software Anthem v1.11q beta .


Hi,


At last, beta software attached.


Contains new features (documented inside) and fixes for lingering HDMI

issues - sorry if I took a while to respond to your tech support e-mail,

this took longer than expected to come together.


Tested with Toshiba XA2, Pioneer Blu-ray, Sony PS3, Oppo 970 and other

popular sources all running their latest software and connected at same time

- no known issues. Also tested with popular cable boxes although this is a

somewhat moot point since software version inside cable box depends on who

the cable company is. If you find a problem when using any HDMI source,

please ensure that it's running latest software before reporting problem.


If you are using v1.11q alpha, please use the attached (8 Jun) instead.


Note: The default video-out configuration for each source is Last Used,

which means that if you're using two configurations, there will be no change

when switching sources unless you assign video-1 / video-2 and change to

that source. In the general release software the default will be video-1

instead of Last Used.


Best Regards,

Nick P., Technical Support


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think you misunderstand the whole 24fps thing.
> 
> *1) It is Not a Holly Grail.
> 
> 
> 2) Picture Quality is NOT BETTER at 24fps.
> *
> 
> 3) 24 fps has only ONE benefit and that ONLY comes
> 
> if the source material is 24 fps. Now new HD Movies
> 
> are 1080p/24 on the disc.
> 
> 
> NOPE PQ comes from the resolution which is 1080p.
> 
> Therefore watching a movie at 1080p/24, 1080p/48
> 
> 1080p/50, 1080p/60 is ALL IDENTICAL.
> 
> 
> Why is 24fps better?
> 
> 
> If the source is 24 fps - because of something called
> 
> judder and judder only occurs in rapid movement
> 
> scenes. Most people can't even see the judder.
> 
> Others who are more interested in FINDING
> 
> the judder rather than enjoying the movie sit and
> 
> LOOK for it. It is subtle.
> 
> 
> Other material like TV which is 30 or 60 fps look better
> 
> at that resolution.
> 
> 
> So 24fps is not the holly grail.
> 
> 
> What is the Holly Grail is LESS PROCESSING is BETTER.
> 
> 
> If the material is HD already - less processing is better.
> 
> Trying to convert a HD 60fps source to HD 24fps is making
> 
> things worse not better.



DrHankz,


Very nice explanation of what's important about 24fps, I needed that!


Mike


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DrHankz,
> 
> 
> Very nice explanation of what's important about 24fps, I needed that!
> 
> 
> Mike



You are welcome -


Your Complement makes me


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just opened my email to find a mail from Nick with a attachment of software Anthem v1.11q beta .
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> At last, beta software attached.
> 
> 
> Contains new features (documented inside) and fixes for lingering HDMI
> 
> issues - sorry if I took a while to respond to your tech support e-mail,
> 
> this took longer than expected to come together.
> 
> 
> Tested with Toshiba XA2, Pioneer Blu-ray, Sony PS3, Oppo 970 and other
> 
> popular sources all running their latest software and connected at same time
> 
> - no known issues. Also tested with popular cable boxes although this is a
> 
> somewhat moot point since software version inside cable box depends on who
> 
> the cable company is. If you find a problem when using any HDMI source,
> 
> please ensure that it's running latest software before reporting problem.
> 
> 
> If you are using v1.11q alpha, please use the attached (8 Jun) instead.
> 
> 
> Note: The default video-out configuration for each source is Last Used,
> 
> which means that if you're using two configurations, there will be no change
> 
> when switching sources unless you assign video-1 / video-2 and change to
> 
> that source. In the general release software the default will be video-1
> 
> instead of Last Used.
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Nick P., Technical Support




I got a similar email. The subject of the email says "Antehm v1.11q beta", but looks like the actual attachment is v1.12 (the attachment itself is v1.12q.zip, and files inside of the zip file refer to v1.12). Haven't installed it yet, though.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got a similar email. The subject of the email says "Antehm v1.11q beta", but looks like the actual attachment is v1.12 (the attachment itself is v1.12q.zip, and files inside of the zip file refer to v1.12). Haven't installed it yet, though.



Yeah, same here, and this is quite timely. I just got the Pioneer 94HD BluRay up and running last night and though the quality is amazing (and Dolby TrueHD decoding rocks!), I am seeing some loss of HDMI handshake when switching sources and other funky weirdness. I've been on 1.10 this whole time, and was putting off changing until the next general release, but I may just take the plunge to 1.12q this weekend.


I'll let y'all know how it goes.


-Brian


----------



## soapman72

Guys,


I am having problems with my AVM 50 and my Toshiba HD A2 getting along. A while back, I reported that I cannot get any audio over HDMI with 1.11g and with 1.11e the entire screen is tinted green. would anyone be willing to forward me the 1.11q firmware. frank promised to send it to me this week, but it looks like he forgot to.










I can get audio with the 1.11g firmware if I use the toslink out on the Toshiba, but handshake issues are really bad. 50 percent of the time, I get a blue screen, and even when I do get a pic, it takes more than a minute for that to happen.










The last firmware that someone sent me contained firmware for both the AVM 50 and the D2. Hopefully, this is the case with the 1.11q ver. My email address is [email protected] , for anyone that can help.



Thanks guys!



Sean


----------



## FilmMixer

^^^Sean...on it's way.


Just a reminder to all...


The 1.12q (which the email says is 1.11q, the file is 1.12q and I think it will become 1.20) software going around has a lot of new features and the user settings in the Anthem will be corrupted if you need to revert to a 1.11 version.


The following bears repeating:


REMEBER TO BACK UP YOUR SETTINGS USING THE SETTINGS EDITOR ON THE PC AND READ THE INSTALLER INSTRUCTIONS.... THEY ARE DIFFERENT FOR THIS 1.12/1.20 VERSION.


Just a friendly reminder in caps


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^Sean...on it's way.
> 
> 
> Just a reminder to all...
> 
> 
> The 1.12q (which the email says is 1.11q, the file is 1.12q and I think it will become 1.20) software going around has a lot of new features and the user settings in the Anthem will be corrupted if you need to revert to a 1.11 version.
> 
> 
> The following bears repeating:
> 
> 
> REMEBER TO BACK UP YOUR SETTINGS USING THE SETTINGS EDITOR ON THE PC AND READ THE INSTALLER INSTRUCTIONS.... THEY ARE DIFFERENT FOR THIS 1.12/1.20 VERSION.
> 
> 
> Just a friendly reminder in caps



Thanks for the heads up Marc. I'm probably going to let others beta test this while I wait for an "official" release.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah, same here, and this is quite timely. I just got the Pioneer 94HD BluRay up and running last night and though the quality is amazing (and Dolby TrueHD decoding rocks!), I am seeing some loss of HDMI handshake when switching sources and other funky weirdness. I've been on 1.10 this whole time, and was putting off changing until the next general release, but I may just take the plunge to 1.12q this weekend.
> 
> 
> I'll let y'all know how it goes.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Brian, I am running 1.11 and am finding no handshaking issues with my 94HD.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'll add to what DRHANKZ said that the jerkiness people have reported when current software is used in 1080p/24 to 1080p/24 use, or in 1080i/60 (480i/60) to 1080p/24 use with film based content for that matter, is *NOT* normal cadence judder. It is a bug, plain and simple, and the jerkiness resulting from this bug is far more noticeable than what happens with "real" cadence judder.


"Real" cadence judder has been around since the dawn of TV. You've been watching programming that has "real" cadence judder in it for years. Real cadence judder exists any time you watch film based content, which is content record at 24fps, on a traditional (30Hz or 60Hz frame rate) TV. It's there whenever you watch a cable TV or standard DVD movie for example, with or without the Anthem in the mix. It is a necessary result of raising the 24fps film rate to the 30fps video rate needed by the TV.


And most people don't see it, EVEN WHEN IT IS POINTED OUT TO THEM, unless they have a judder-free setup side by side for comparison. In this regard, real cadence judder is far less severe than typical de-interlacing bugs (i.e., from other hardware -- the Anthem doesn't have them). Most people will also miss de-interlacing bugs until they are pointed out, but once pointed out most people will then start seeing them ALL THE TIME -- and they get really annoying.


Real cadence judder is MUCH LESS severe than the obvious jerkiness caused by the current, Anthem, /24Hz software bugs I mentioned in the first paragraph.


Even folks who DO know how to see real cadence judder find it easy to ignore unless the scene being watched really highlights it (i.e., SLOW smooth motion). For most folks, this is limited to when the credits start scrolling. The brain is VERY good at smoothing out real cadence judder so that you don't see it. For "judder" in FAST moving scenes, see below.


Getting 1080p/24 to 1080p/24 working right in the Anthem will result in cadence judder-free viewing -- but ONLY if your display is ALSO capable of switching to a screen refresh rate which is a multiple of 24. The vast majority of TVs out there today can't do that yet, so this is a non-issue for them.


And getting 1080i/60 (480i/60) to 1080p/24 working correctly for film based content will have a similar result FOR SUCH TVs -- i.e., when watching film based content embedded in a TV rate video stream (i.e., standard DVD movies or broadcast, satellite, or cable TV movies).


But video based programming from any source still needs to be viewed at /60Hz!


That is, [whatever]/60 or [whatever]/30 video-based content input converted to 1080p/24 output WILL ALWAYS LOOK AWFUL!. There's no good method to throw away some of the video rate content to lower its frame rate and leave just a /24Hz stream.


That means you can't leave your TV at /24Hz all the time. It has to use a multiple of /30Hz for video content and, optionally, a multiple /24Hz for film content. I say optionally because the consequence of viewing film content at a multiple of /30Hz is "real" cadence judder -- and as I said above, that's just not a problem for most people.


[NOTE 1: Within the next couple years manufacturers will start shipping TVs that have a fixed refresh rate of 120Hz and raise both /24Hz multiple and /30Hz multiple video input to that same /120Hz display rate without judder -- since 120 is an even multiple of both 24 and 30. This is good because changing refresh rates usually involves some noticeable amount of time during which the imaging is scrambled, and if you can just stay at 120 all the time you avoid that. But such TVs STILL have to be able to detect film or video based input properly since the multiple for rasing the input rate to the 120Hz display rate is different. Current LCD TVs that tout 120Hz refresh do not yet do this correctly as I understand it. I.e., they have the 120Hz display rate primarily for LCD motion blur correction, but don't actually accept /24Hz input and do the right thing with it.]


[NOTE 2: "Real" cadence judder is a necessary result of raising 24fps film based content to 30fps for display on traditional TVs. Four frames of film have to happen in the same amount of time as 5 frames of video for this to work. This is done by repeating interlaced half-frames (called fields) in a regular cadence: Most commonly 2, 3, 3, 2 which raises 8 "fields" of film to 10 "fields" of video. This processing of film to display on video is the "telecine" process. The result of this is that some of the film "fields" are on screen for a slightly longer time than the other film "fields" adjacent to them. And thus you get a very subtle jerkiness to the motion. This subtle jerkiness, most commonly spotted during slow, smooth motion of sharp edges (such as the text of a credit roll) is "real" cadence judder -- judder due to the effects of the field repeat cadence.]


--------------------------------------------------------------------------


There is also an ENTIRELY DIFFERENT effect, also confusingly called judder, which people see when FAST moving scenes are recorded on film at 24fps. That's "frame rate" judder.


"Frame rate" judder is due to the fact that 24fps is not really fast enough to catch the action. The brain's ability to blur the motion captured in a set of frames and perceive things as being indistinguishable from true, smooth motion is not good enough if the motion is too fast and the capture rate is only 24fps. This typically would be seen if the camera is panning to follow some nearby action and thus objects in the distance are moving across the screen too fast from frame to frame to appear as smooth motion. Those fast moving objects change position too much from frame to frame for the brain to see it as smooth motion. If the fast moving objects have sharp edges, this becomes even more noticeable. Think of the jerkiness you see when you fast forward to get this concept.


The key thing to keep in mind is that "frame rate" judder HAS NOTHING TO DO with watching the movie on a TV. It has nothing to do with film-based vs. video-based, or film rate vs. video rate. It would be just as visible in a movie theater as well!


There is no real time processing that can eliminate "frame rate" judder. A processor like the Anthem won't even try.


Film makers are well aware of "frame rate" judder, and do things to keep it from being an issue. They pan more slowly for example, or blur the focus of distant objects to soften their edges.


MOST PEOPLE who think they've spotted "real" cadence judder are actually either looking at rate processing glitches, i.e., bugs (as in current Anthem /24Hz software, or in the TV's ability to detect and properly use /24Hz input), or are looking at misguided attempts to display video based program content -- such as live or taped TV shows -- at /24Hz on their display (which CAN'T work right), or are seeing "frame rate" judder.


If you are seeing judder in fast moving scenes you are likely seeing frame rate judder. Complain to the content producer. You are more likely to see this in films than in TV because films are recorded at only 24fps whereas TV programs are recorded at the significantly faster 30fps.


If you are seeing judder while watching live or taped TV programs -- or perhaps a TV show recorded on DVD, HD-DVD or Blu-Ray disc -- you are seeing operator error. Change the output to your TV or the setting on your TV to maintain the /60Hz frame rate of video based content. Trying to view such program content at /24Hz is never going to work right.


If you are seeing gross and obvious amounts of judder in slow moving film scenes -- typically when viewing films on a /24Hz capable TV, then you are seeing BUGS. Either the video source or the TV is not handling the /24Hz stuff properly.


But if you are seeing subtle amounts of judder when watching SLOW smooth motion of film based content -- film credit rolls for example -- THEN you are seeing "real" cadence judder. And that can be eliminated by using a TV that is able to switch to a multiple of /24Hz refresh rate, and by getting the /24Hz bugs fixed in the Anthem.


[NOTE: Cadence judder can be more noticeable in some types of animation that use unusual cadences -- Japanese anime for example. But the "stop motion" look that people see in some modern, inexpensive animation these days is really due to the fact that they aren't even animated at a full 24fps. Some are animated at as little as half that, with extreme repeat cadences. Some are animated at less than 24fps and then use computer "in-betweening" to fake the missing frames. In-betweening is a common technique in high quality computer animation as well, but is subject to abuse in this lower quality stuff. And some modern animation has this effect introduced DELIBERATELY for artistic reasons.]


-------------------------------------------------------------


I hope one of the folks trying the new V1.12q beta software will also try 1080i/60 (480i/60) film based content input to 1080p/24 output and report any changes.


Once Anthem gets their /24Hz timings right, which appears to now be the case, going the rest of the way to fixing this as well should not be that much tougher for them.


Folks who would prefer not to futz with this stuff should use 1080p/60 output exclusively, for now, for both film and video. Honestly, "real" cadence judder is just not that noticeable for most people, and doing things this way avoids any frustration with the current bugs. It is perfectly OK to send 1080p/24 from an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player to the Anthem and let the Anthem raise the frame rate to 1080p/60 for output to your display. Similarly all live and recorded TV programs, and film content at 480i from standard DVD players, would also be raised to 1080p/60.


The next stage would be folks who want to send 1080p/24 content as 1080p/24 to their /24 capable display. That should now be working well with the new, V1.12 beta software.


The final stage -- 1080i/60 (or 480i/60) input to 1080p/24 output of film based content should be left to the folks who like to tinker until we have more reason to believe that Anthem has actually addressed this properly.

--Bob


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^Sean...on it's way.
> 
> 
> Just a reminder to all...
> 
> 
> The 1.12q (which the email says is 1.11q, the file is 1.12q and I think it will become 1.20) software going around has a lot of new features and the user settings in the Anthem will be corrupted if you need to revert to a 1.11 version.
> 
> 
> The following bears repeating:
> 
> 
> REMEBER TO BACK UP YOUR SETTINGS USING THE SETTINGS EDITOR ON THE PC AND READ THE INSTALLER INSTRUCTIONS.... THEY ARE DIFFERENT FOR THIS 1.12/1.20 VERSION.
> 
> 
> Just a friendly reminder in caps





THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The V1.12 software, just now in field testing, is reported to have fixed various problems in 1080p/24 to 1080p/24. This is certainly progress.



There is progress on multiple fron'ts. Being able to use an XA-2 & a BDP-HD1 with firmware post 11e is a huge improvement in recent beta. Next full production version is imminent.


Tim


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soapman72* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Yes you need to do a "wipe" of setting, upgrade, then reload settings. It's mostly transparent, but I did have to update one setting to where it was after the reload. Also Live video editor inputs need to bne saved separately as they are not copied over by the front panel store to user or custom installer memories or saved via the setup editor file save.


I didn't mention 12q, but since someone else did







, it rocks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Brian, I am running 1.11 and am finding no handshaking issues with my 94HD.



All us BDP-HD1 owners have had NO Handshake problem

with the Pioneer and D2 since Day one. Seeing the 94HD

is really the same - you might be better off with Vanilla

FW 1.11.


----------



## lazarus28

Yay! I can now test 1080p/24 via the PS3! (assuming that somebody would be so kind as to email that there newest firmware over to lazarus28 at the gmail.com . . . . )



And thanks! I love my D1-HD and wouldn't be able to understand and operate it the way I do if not for you guys.


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes you need to do a "wipe" of setting, upgrade, then reload settings. It's mostly transparent, but I did have to update one setting to where it was after the reload. Also Live video editor inputs need to bne saved separately as they are not copied over by the front panel store to user or custom installer memories or saved via the setup editor file save.
> 
> 
> I didn't mention 12q, but since someone else did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , it rocks.





For me, the 1.12q is an improvement. The Toshiba HA-A2 handshake happens quicker, and the audio over hdmi works now, however, I still get the dreaded "green screen" sometimes, with the toshiba, and have to change inputs on the anthem. When I come back to the toshiba, the screen is normal and not tinted green.


Thanks again!


Sean


----------



## Bob Pariseau

An "all green" screen (no imagery, just solid green) would usually mean a copy protection failure.


But seeing video imagery that is tinted "ghastly green" is often a different problem. This indicates confusion over whether the signal is YCbCr or RGB. It is the reverse side of the "shocking pink" imagery that happens when the confusion goes the other way.


This could be as simple as the "auto" data format handshake timing being off. And a workaround would be to force a specific data format in each of your devices that show this problem.


See if your source lets you specify YCbCr 4:4:4 as its output data format. Also see if changing the Anthem's output data format (Setup / Video Output / Data Format) from Auto to a specific setting helps. Typically YCbCr 4:4:4 would be the norm when sending data to a device with an HDMI input, such as when sending to the Anthem or from the Anthem to an HDMI display. "RGB" (not "Extended RGB") would be the norm when sending data to a display with a DVI input.

--Bob


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> An "all green" screen (no imagery, just solid green) would usually mean a copy protection failure.
> 
> 
> But seeing video imagery that is tinted "ghastly green" is often a different problem. This indicates confusion over whether the signal is YCbCr or RGB. It is the reverse side of the "shocking pink" imagery that happens when the confusion goes the other way.
> 
> 
> This could be as simple as the "auto" data format handshake timing being off. And a workaround would be to force a specific data format in each of your devices that show this problem.
> 
> 
> See if your source lets you specify YCbCr 4:4:4 as its output data format. Also see if changing the Anthem's output data format (Setup / Video Output / Data Format) from Auto to a specific setting helps. Typically YCbCr 4:4:4 would be the norm when sending data to a device with an HDMI input, such as when sending to the Anthem or from the Anthem to an HDMI display. "RGB" (not "Extended RGB") would be the norm when sending data to a display with a DVI input.
> 
> --Bob




Bob,


I should have made the problem clearer. The screen is tinted green. Changing inputs on the anthem, then changing back, fixes the problem. As for the anthem output to my Sony SXRD, I have it set to 4:2:2. I am under the impression, that at that output setting the Anthem uses 10 bit processing. Is there any reason I would want to use 4:4:4 output to the sony? For giggles, I did try it, and can't tell if there is any difference in the picture. To me the 2 settings look identical.


As far as the output from the Toshiba, unfortunately, the A2 does not have any options for changing the data format. Maybe the higher model Toshiba HD players do, but this one doesn't.


If there is some good material to use to evaluate the results from changing the data output from the anthem to the sony, I am open to suggestions. On regular program material, I couldn't detect a difference in colors, contrast, etc. I do have a DVE disc (standard DVD only), but don't have any other "test" discs.


As always, thanks for your help and input.



Sean


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soapman72* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I should have made the problem clearer. The screen is tinted green. Changing inputs on the anthem, then changing back, fixes the problem. As for the anthem output to my Sony SXRD, I have it set to 4:2:2. I am under the impression, that at that output setting the Anthem uses 10 bit processing. Is there any reason I would want to use 4:4:4 output to the sony? For giggles, I did try it, and can't tell if there is any difference in the picture. To me the 2 settings look identical.
> 
> 
> As far as the output from the Toshiba, unfortunately, the A2 does not have any options for changing the data format. Maybe the higher model Toshiba HD players do, but this one doesn't.
> 
> 
> If there is some good material to use to evaluate the results from changing the data output from the anthem to the sony, I am open to suggestions. On regular program material, I couldn't detect a difference in colors, contrast, etc. I do have a DVE disc (standard DVD only), but don't have any other "test" discs.
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for your help and input.
> 
> 
> 
> Sean



The Data Format stuff is discussed in the posts of the same name linked off the first post in this thread.


Your best bet for choosing between YCbCr 4:4:4 and YCbCr 4:2:2 is to look at gray scale ramps first and then color ramps. Your calibration DVD should be sufficient (if your DVD player isn't mangling the HDMI data it is sending to the Anthem). Not all displays will accept YCbCr 4:2:2, but if yours does then you MIGHT see smoother ramps using it than using YCbCr 4:4:4.


Also note that some issues in ramps may be due to improper setting of the basic Blacks/Whites levels (Brightness and Contrast controls, respectively), or improper Gamma Correction. Errors in these could mask any real difference between YCbCr 4:4:4 and YCbCr 4:2:2.

--BOB


----------



## abc999

From what I am reading about the new beta firmware, I think I am ready to try it with my AVM50. Can somebody please forward the file to [email protected] ?


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> From what I am reading about the new beta firmware, I think I am ready to try it with my AVM50. Can somebody please forward the file to [email protected] ?



I emailed it to you.


----------



## lazarus28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I emailed it to you.




Could you also send that to [email protected] ?


T'would be much appreciated!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah, same here, and this is quite timely. I just got the Pioneer 94HD BluRay up and running last night and though the quality is amazing (and Dolby TrueHD decoding rocks!), I am seeing some loss of HDMI handshake when switching sources and other funky weirdness. I've been on 1.10 this whole time, and was putting off changing until the next general release, but I may just take the plunge to 1.12q this weekend.
> 
> 
> I'll let y'all know how it goes.
> 
> 
> -Brian



12q, given it's the last beta before production should help. I have noticed some handshake issues (particularly if you are outputting p24 on the Pio) from stock 11 on out. It's the nature of HDMI, but is you have not repeater set (this was the one thing that didn't "save" properly when I reloaded my settings to 12q, so check that) you shouldn't have the handshakes after you switch devices and are "locked in" so to speak, or settled down, on a particular HDMI path and everything is properly syncing. I agree that handshake burps during a feature is Unsat.


----------



## kmr_269




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We haven't had any reports here of lipsync processing turning on unexpectedly. Keep in mind that in addition to the default setting you specify in Setup / Source Setup, it is also possible to alter lip-sync (perhaps accidentally) using the remote control -- under the "8" key.
> 
> 
> However cable and satellite providers sometimes have problems in the signal they send out. DirecTV is notorious for this for example. A typical symptom of incoming signal problems would be if video happens BEFORE the audio -- meaning you'd have to speed up the audio, rather than delay it, to correct things. Thus you get the impression that unwanted lipsync delay has been added in. In reality the signal is screwed up before it ever gets to you.
> 
> 
> I don't recall hearing of any specific problems with the 8300 related to this.
> 
> 
> How do you have the 8300 connected to the AVM50 for audio and for video? Does the problem happen only with 5.1 audio TV programs or also with stereo audio TV programs?
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,


Your description of having to speed up the audio is right on. The video was a few seconds ahead of the audio. Checked the '8' on the remote and it is set to 0. The connection to the 8300HD to the AVM-50 was via HDMI and then HDMI to the TV, a Pioneer PRO-FDH1. The audio was 5.1 and the mode is still the default AnthemCinema as I have not gotten to play with this yet.


I switched to component from the 8300HD to the AVM-50 and then HDMI to the TV yesterday and did not see any issues. I will try switching back to HDMI on both and try again later today.


Thanks,

Keith


----------



## rudolpht

100s of hours have been devoted to getting HDMI working on Moto & SciAtl DVR boxes, and Tivo S3s for that matter. For all the pain & wasted time, component and optical give the same pic & sound with much fewer "issues." Hooking (wasting IMHO) an HDMI port because one can is not a convincing rationale compared to does it have benefit/make sense. When the Anthem has more HDMI ports and DVRs are stable it may make sense (less cables, easier setup), but we are years away from that, again IMHO.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kmr_269* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> Your description of having to speed up the audio is right on. The video was a few seconds ahead of the audio. Checked the '8' on the remote and it is set to 0. The connection to the 8300HD to the AVM-50 was via HDMI and then HDMI to the TV, a Pioneer PRO-FDH1. The audio was 5.1 and the mode is still the default AnthemCinema as I have not gotten to play with this yet.
> 
> 
> I switched to component from the 8300HD to the AVM-50 and then HDMI to the TV yesterday and did not see any issues. I will try switching back to HDMI on both and try again later today.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Keith



If it's really as much as a few seconds difference, that has to be a transmission problem or something more than usually bizarre going on in your DVR. The Anthem doesn't have the ability to store, and thus delay, the audio anywhere near that long.


As for a DVR problem, the usual suggestion when these beasties get out of sync is that you Pause, or even Slow Reverse them for a moment and then hit Play again. That usually works.


But even that won't fix things if the signal was wrong before it got to you. The various retransmission stages of these signals -- often involving trips up to a satellite and back -- provide ample opportunities for screwups. Typically this will only be going on on one channel, and typically it happens on the DD5.1 feed. That is, if you switch to another channel you should see the problem go away, and if you now switch back to the original channel and still see the problem, then you can pretty much be sure it is a re-transmission fault either at the cable provider or at the source sending the signal to your cable provider.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 12q, given it's the last beta before production should help. I have noticed some handshake issues (particularly if you are outputting p24 on the Pio) from stock 11 on out. It's the nature of HDMI, but is you have not repeater set (this was the one thing that didn't "save" properly when I reloaded my settings to 12q, so check that) you shouldn't have the handshakes after you switch devices and are "locked in" so to speak, or settled down, on a particular HDMI path and everything is properly syncing. I agree that handshake burps during a feature is Unsat.



Tim,

I am having serious handshaking issues with my new Pioneer 94HD via hdmi to the D2. Originally I thought that it was the player, but a quick install of component video cables and digital coax audio proves to work each and every time.


It appears that I have to plug and unplug the hdmi cable several times in order to finally handshake the D2 and the Pioneer 94HD.


I am running 1.11. Is 1.12Q the answer or should I simply run component until we know that the new Anthem software is solid and solves the D2-94HD issue.


Brian, why don't you be the guinea pig and try it?


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> I am having serious handshaking issues with my new Pioneer 94HD via hdmi to the D2. Originally I thought that it was the player, but a quick install of component video cables and digital coax audio proves to work each and every time.
> 
> 
> It appears that I have to plug and unplug the hdmi cable several times in order to finally handshake the D2 and the Pioneer 94HD.
> 
> 
> I am running 1.11. Is 1.12Q the answer or should I simply run component until we know that the new Anthem software is solid and solves the D2-94HD issue.
> 
> 
> Brian, why don't you be the guinea pig and try it?



HA! Tempting, very tempting, the software geek in me is very tempted...I actually had planned on installing 1.12q, but right now, my handshake stuff is working well with the D2 and 94HD over HDMI, so i'm not thinking I'll mess with it. I'd rather wait for the public release unless I absolutely need it to enjoy my 94HD. Did you make sure the HDMI Repeater setting is on "No"? That seemed to help me a great deal. I am running 1.10 still, if you can believe that. My philosophy on this is to not upgrade unless I absolutely need it.


Guess I'm not feeling too adventurous right now 


-Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Bob,


I am now running Source Direct setting from my Pio 94HD to my D2 over HDMI only. This of course means that often I will end up sending native 1080p/24 to the D2 (for movies like PotC for instance). In my case, I have always used 1080i/60 as my output from the D2, simply because my Qualia006 will not accept 1080p input. UMR the expert calibrator I've used, and probably best guy on the planet with the Qualia006 has proven time and again that the Qualia006 performs inverse telecine processing of 1080i/60 to 1080p/60 perfectly. I have also heard from Nick on several instances early on say that every input into the D2 is immediately converted to 1080p, and only after that is lowered or changed to whatever output is chosen by the user. If so, am I correct that this is what is happening in my case:


1080p/24 native source from 94HD--->1080p/60 conversion by Gennum chip in D2---->D2 interlacer converts this to 1080i/60 for output over HDMI---->Qualia006 performs inverse telecine processing to display at its native rate of 1080p/60.


Any comments or thoughts on the above is appreciated. I certainly love the resulting PQ, absolutely the most stunning PQ I've seen thus far in my environment, but I'm curious your thoughts.


Thanks for your help,

Brian


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HA! Tempting, very tempting, the software geek in me is very tempted...I actually had planned on installing 1.12q, but right now, my handshake stuff is working well with the D2 and 94HD over HDMI, so i'm not thinking I'll mess with it. I'd rather wait for the public release unless I absolutely need it to enjoy my 94HD. Did you make sure the HDMI Repeater setting is on "No"? That seemed to help me a great deal. I am running 1.10 still, if you can believe that. My philosophy on this is to not upgrade unless I absolutely need it.
> 
> 
> Guess I'm not feeling too adventurous right now
> 
> 
> -Brian



If my system were running like yours is now, I would take your stance, without any doubts!


I am now having difficulty getting any handshaking at all between the D2 and the 94HD. I have switched cables and inputs and hdmi repeater is off. I will have to keep searching for a solution. It is interesting that you are running 1.10 with the D2 & (94HD and Tim is running 12Q with the two. Not working for me at all via hdmi with 1.11. And the solution may be a 1.12q upgrade if somebody can send me the software. Otherwise, I may have to think about returning the Pioneer 94HD, as I did not invest this kind of $$$ for this type of aggravation.


I really did enjoy Letters From Iwo Jima on Blu-ray! Fabulous PQ & I did not mind the subtitles at all.


----------



## Joe C5

Well, I have tried both 1.11e and 1.12q and neither one will sync up to Pioneer's new firmware (except for the following hack). It is my opinion that they are tied in a deadly embrace (cute SW term). I say this because of some symptoms I see. I will send Nick an email, but really believe it's Pioneer's fault (probably). Anyway, the only way I have found to consistently get it to work is the following:

1) Disconnect the HDMI (at the Pioneer) or use a cheap (relatively speaking) switcher

2) Turn on the pioneer and wait until it is fully up (you can get into the menu)

3) Plug in the HDMI port

Works every time for me (YMMV).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I am now running Source Direct setting from my Pio 94HD to my D2 over HDMI only. This of course means that often I will end up sending native 1080p/24 to the D2 (for movies like PotC for instance). In my case, I have always used 1080i/60 as my output from the D2, simply because my Qualia006 will not accept 1080p input. UMR the expert calibrator I've used, and probably best guy on the planet with the Qualia006 has proven time and again that the Qualia006 performs inverse telecine processing of 1080i/60 to 1080p/60 perfectly. I have also heard from Nick on several instances early on say that every input into the D2 is immediately converted to 1080p, and only after that is lowered or changed to whatever output is chosen by the user. If so, am I correct that this is what is happening in my case:
> 
> 
> 1080p/24 native source from 94HD--->1080p/60 conversion by Gennum chip in D2---->D2 interlacer converts this to 1080i/60 for output over HDMI---->Qualia006 performs inverse telecine processing to display at its native rate of 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> Any comments or thoughts on the above is appreciated. I certainly love the resulting PQ, absolutely the most stunning PQ I've seen thus far in my environment, but I'm curious your thoughts.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> 
> Brian



What you are doing is fine. The tricky part in all this is the DE-interlacing of the 1080i/60 stream. The rest is easy presuming your electronics can detect the film rate stream (i.e., detect the repeat cadence built into that stream). If your Qualia is doing the de-interlacing properly then this is JUST AS GOOD as if the Qualia were able to accept a 1080p/60 input stream from the D2.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I have tried both 1.11e and 1.12q and neither one will sync up to Pioneer's new firmware (except for the following hack). It is my opinion that they are tied in a deadly embrace (cute SW term). I say this because of some symptoms I see. I will send Nick an email, but really believe it's Pioneer's fault (probably). Anyway, the only way I have found to consistently get it to work is the following:
> 
> 1) Disconnect the HDMI (at the Pioneer) or use a cheap (relatively speaking) switcher
> 
> 2) Turn on the pioneer and wait until it is fully up (you can get into the menu)
> 
> 3) Plug in the HDMI port
> 
> Works every time for me (YMMV).



What a pain in the proverbial hdmi unplug and plug in a_s!


I guess that Anthem will have to solve another company's hdmi issues once again. The PQ via the Pioneer is simply breathtaking, but I am going to have to give this one some real thought. But, I wonder why several other D2 owners are able to get handshaking between the two??


----------



## ajeruns

Can anyone tell me when Film Mode is supposed to be active or on? I have my AVM-50's Film Mode set to "Auto Detect." I'm constantly checking it in the Info section, Input Status, Film Mode, and it always reads "Off." I check it while watching DVDs running through my Oppo 970, Tashiba XA2, and SA 8300 cable box. I'm running 1.10 software. I think I remember it reading "Active" sometime ago when I was running 1.06.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me when Film Mode is supposed to be active or on? I have my AVM-50's Film Mode set to "Auto Detect." I'm constantly checking it in the Info section, Input Status, Film Mode, and it always reads "Off." I check it while watching DVDs running through my Oppo 970, Tashiba XA2, and SA 8300 cable box. I'm running 1.10 software. I think I remember it reading "Active" sometime ago when I was running 1.06.



I don't believe the Film Mode status is updating properly in the V1.10 software. We've had reports here that this was fixed in one of the test software releases -- V1.11g as I recall. So it should be fixed in general software release that's coming out real soon now.


Film Mode status should show as ON whenever the Anthem detects a repeat cadence in the incoming video (while auto detect is turned on) -- meaning that the video stream started out life as film-based stuff (24fps) instead of video camera stuff (30fps). Film Mode detection is essential for proper de-interlacing. The de-interlacing is working fine so it is apparently just the status display itself which isn't working right.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns

Thanks Bob. I will patiently wait for the official new software release.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What a pain in the proverbial hdmi unplug and plug in a_s!
> 
> 
> I guess that Anthem will have to solve another company's hdmi issues once again. The PQ via the Pioneer is simply breathtaking, but I am going to have to give this one some real thought. But, I wonder why several other D2 owners are able to get handshaking between the two??



If anyone is able to get it to work reliably, I would like to know what settings or power up sequence they use. It could be a setting on the Pioneer or the D2 that is causing the problem I think. For instance, I like to leave it in source direct (Pioneer). I have played with some of the settings, but so far I have not run across anything that works (other than my hack).


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What you are doing is fine. The tricky part in all this is the DE-interlacing of the 1080i/60 stream. The rest is easy presuming your electronics can detect the film rate stream (i.e., detect the repeat cadence built into that stream). If your Qualia is doing the de-interlacing properly then this is JUST AS GOOD as if the Qualia were able to accept a 1080p/60 input stream from the D2.
> 
> --Bob



IIRC the Qualia will accept 1080p24sf. I know the Ruby and Pearl do. 1080p24sf output would be a nice added option to the D2/AVM50 feature set.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> IIRC the Qualia will accept 1080p24sf. I know the Ruby and Pearl do. 1080p24sf output would be a nice added option to the D2/AVM50 feature set.



Nahh, you're thinking of the Qualia004 (projector). Mine is the Qualia006 70 inch rear projection set. It is limited to 1080i/60 input.


-Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What you are doing is fine. The tricky part in all this is the DE-interlacing of the 1080i/60 stream. The rest is easy presuming your electronics can detect the film rate stream (i.e., detect the repeat cadence built into that stream). If your Qualia is doing the de-interlacing properly then this is JUST AS GOOD as if the Qualia were able to accept a 1080p/60 input stream from the D2.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, that's what I thought, but it's always good to get a second opinion.


Just finished PotC:CotBP via 94HD BluRay...excellent picture, but I'll tell ya, it's the audio quality that blows me away even more. As Anthem mentioned long ago, and has since written a little whitepaper explanation on, Uncompressed multichannel LPCM over HDMI into the D2 using nothing more than basic HDMI 1.1 yields phenomenal audio quality. I have no need for HDMI 1.3 at all as far as I see - just give me more TrueHD soundtracks so I can decode them in the Pio 94HD and enjoy LPCM into the D2! Hopefully more movies will have TrueHD soon.


-Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If anyone is able to get it to work reliably, I would like to know what settings or power up sequence they use. It could be a setting on the Pioneer or the D2 that is causing the problem I think. For instance, I like to leave it in source direct (Pioneer). I have played with some of the settings, but so far I have not run across anything that works (other than my hack).



Joe, are you using the new 94HD? Or the HD1 with updated firmware? Please clarify, and if it's the 94HD, I'll try to help any way I can...for me, at least for now, it is working fine with the D2 under D2 version 1.10. I am using HDMI only, and I set the Pio to Source Direct, and the HDMI Audio Out to PCM (to allow TrueHD soundtracks to be decoded in the player and output as LPCM over HDMI).


-Brian


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Joe, are you using the new 94HD? Or the HD1 with updated firmware? Please clarify, and if it's the 94HD, I'll try to help any way I can...for me, at least for now, it is working fine with the D2 under D2 version 1.10. I am using HDMI only, and I set the Pio to Source Direct, and the HDMI Audio Out to PCM (to allow TrueHD soundtracks to be decoded in the player and output as LPCM over HDMI).
> 
> 
> -Brian



I have the HD1, but I believe from what I have read that the firmware is probably very close (the timing was way too quick if they were significantly different). I am using 1.12q on the D2 (but started with 1.11e). It *was* working most of the time (except for audio which would fix itself on eject) until I updated with the Pioneer with the new firmware. Sounds like our Pioneer settings are the same. I think for now I am going to insert my monoprice switcher in between the two so I can control the path without chancing HDMI plug damage. I sent Nick an email. Thanks for the help / info...


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nahh, you're thinking of the Qualia004 (projector). Mine is the Qualia006 70 inch rear projection set. It is limited to 1080i/60 input.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Sorry, those Sony designations get me every time.


I'd be curious to see what 1080i50 output looks like (with 1080p24 input to the D2). 1080i48 output with 1080p24 input should be equivalent to 1080p24sf (I don't believe the D2/AVM50 will output 1080i48 though).


My Pearl accepts 1080i48 and shows 1080i50 in it's menu.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the HD1, but I believe from what I have read that the firmware is probably very close (the timing was way too quick if they were significantly different). I am using 1.12q on the D2 (but started with 1.11e). It *was* working most of the time (except for audio which would fix itself on eject) until I updated with the Pioneer with the new firmware. Sounds like our Pioneer settings are the same. I think for now I am going to insert my monoprice switcher in between the two so I can control the path without chancing HDMI plug damage. I sent Nick an email. Thanks for the help / info...



Joe,


Gotcha, yeah, let's just be careful about making assumptions right now - for the sake of those like Stan and yourself that are having problems, I wouldn't want them to not see the differences here as we troubleshoot some things. They otherwise may have assumed incorrectly that you were running the same hardware. I would not assume that the firmware's are similar. Keep in mind the HD1 uses HDMI 1.1 and the 94HD is HDMI 1.2a. That by itself will necessitate different incarnations of HDMI code. There are many other differences between these players (HDMI Control capabilities, etc), and it's important we separate the 2 in terms of what we are seeing, until we know for a fact that the issues are related.


Let us know what you hear from Nick, hopefully your and Stan's issues will be able to be resolved swiftly.


-Brian


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I emailed it to you.



Thanks Randolph. It did not work for me as I have handshaking issues from the start. When it worked with my PS3, 23.98fps was awesome, but picture was in and out until there was no signal anymore. I was trying to resolve matters until the wee hours of the morning to no avail. Just shutdown everything and will try again later. No HDMI input or output was working before I shutdown the system. I had very few problems with the original 1.11 and if I cannot resolve the issues, I will just try to revert back to this version.


----------



## TomHuffman

Does the AVM50 provide controls for gray scale adjustments? The custom RGB Gamma control in the Live Video Settings Editor looks promising. Where's the documentation for this?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But, I wonder why several other D2 owners are able to get handshaking between the two??



The only other variable I can think of, assuming the firmware baselines between the HD1/AVM50 & 94HD/D2 combos aren't enough of a variation (wouldn't bet the ranch), is the p24 settings.


I was getting choppy video so I set to p60 into the Anthem. Didn't recall until source direct was mentioned. I have just had enough issues over time (close but no cigar) to leave it that way.


----------



## rudolpht

Incidentally I am having to restart 12q every time I start up the system after the projector is up and projecting. A step backwards except for the video improvement. I also had to switch from Studio RGB to Extended RGB.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


The only issue I am having with 1.12q is that upon powering up and turning on either of my 1080p equipped sources (Samsung BD-P1200 Blu-ray player and Toshiba HD-XA2 HD DVD player) my AVM-50 won't lock on to either player's output. The screen flashes in and out and the OSD reads 1078p intermittently.


If I go to the Anthem's on screen setup menu and then exit that it immediately locks on and all is well.


1080p/24 works fine with the Samsung which is great.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Incidentally I am having to restart 12q every time I start up the system after the projector is up and projecting. A step backwards except for the video improvement. I also had to switch from Studio RGB to Extended RGB.



Why did you have to switch to Extended RGB?

--Bob


----------



## Ian_Currie

Greetings,


I've tried reading through this thread, but it's just too darn long... so I hope you don't mind if I ask questions that have probably been answered before.


I assume the scaler in the D2 performs vertical stretch (e.g. to wrok with an anamorphic lens in a CIH setup), but if someone already has a Toshiba XA2 (good at upscaling SD-DVDs), is there any other benefit to having a built in scaler in the D2? Is it superior to the XA2? If so, do you need to output 480i over HDMI?


I don't have player capable of doing the latter, hence my question.


Thx.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I've tried reading through this thread, but it's just too darn long... so I hope you don't mind if I ask questions that have probably been answered before.
> 
> 
> I assume the scaler in the D2 performs vertical stretch (e.g. to wrok with an anamorphic lens in a CIH setup), but if someone already has a Toshiba XA2 (good at upscaling SD-DVDs), is there any other benefit to having a built in scaler in the D2? Is it superior to the XA2? If so, do you need to output 480i over HDMI?
> 
> 
> I don't have player capable of doing the latter, hence my question.
> 
> 
> Thx.



Yes, the D2 does vertical stretch for folks interested in CIH use. There are a collection of links in the first post of this thread that cover a number of interesting topics, including this. See the Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling links there for details. Simply put, you set a Custom Crop to outline the portion of the image that is interesting to you, and then you use Anamorphic scaling to stretch that uniformly to the shape you have specified as your video output resolution.


The XA2 is reported to have a pretty good scaler for standard DVDs, so you can try it both ways (XA2 scales vs. D2 scales) and see which you prefer better. If your display's native resolution is other than one of the "standard" HDTV resolutions, you will probably be better off feeding 480i to the D2 (when watching standard DVDs) and letting it scale to your display's native resolution since then there is only one scaling pass.


And of course the D2's scaler also pays off for your other sources such as cable TV. In addition, scaling is only one aspect of getting best quality video. The D2 also provides video level adjustments that can be very helpful, including custom Gamma Correction which can help tame display problems.


You don't HAVE TO feed HDMI 480i to the D2 for SD viewing. Component 480i could also be good. And if your source only does 480p, then that's not ideal (since your source's de-interlacing is not likely to be as good as that in the D2) but it will still work.


For general tips on video setup options see the Video Calibration for Non-ISF Techs link in the first post in this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does the AVM50 provide controls for gray scale adjustments? The custom RGB Gamma control in the Live Video Settings Editor looks promising. Where's the documentation for this?



The AVM-50 provides Blacks/Whites level setting adjustment (Brightness and Contrast respectively) for each input. It also does automatic conversion between source and display color space and data format. For example if your source or display insists on using "Extended RGB" the AVM-50 will deal with that.


The AVM-50 includes internally generated test charts. You use those to set your TV's video levels (the controls in your TV) to best match what the AVM-50 is sending out. Then you use the AVM-50's per-source level adjustments to fine tune as necessary for each of your sources. For example, you would use a calibration DVD in your standard DVD player to do this for that input source. For details, see the Video Calibration for Non-ISF Techs post linked in the first post of this thread.


In the V1.10 or later software, the AVM-50 also implements Custom Gamma Correction curves. You can do either a gray scale correction curve, or do individual R, G, and B curves. Standard Gamma Correction options are also built-in if that's all you need. The Custom Gamma Correction stuff is set up and loaded into the AVM-50 using the Live Video Settings Editor application on a Windows PC. Once loaded into the AVM-50, the Custom Gamma Correction becomes a choice in the AVM-50's own Gamma Correction menu (Video Source Adjust / Output) on a per-input basis.


Gamma Correction is in there primarily for experienced video calibrators who have light sensing tools to measure the results, and some knowledge of the compromises that need to be made according to each individual type of display. The curve settings themselves (in the application) are straightforward, but the consequences of making such adjustments are not. It is pretty easy to screw up your imaging if you fiddle with this stuff without understanding what you are doing. Anthem doesn't provide documentation on how to do this.

--Bob


----------



## TomHuffman

Yes, I am an ISF calibrator and that's why I asked. I have a job coming up in which the projector's gray scale controls are limited. The client has an AVM50 and I was wondering if I could use its controls to further refine the gray scale.


So this external application has such controls, but there is no documentation for how to use them?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The AVM-50 provides Blacks/Whites level setting adjustment (Brightness and Contrast respectively) for each input. It also does automatic conversion between source and display color space and data format. For example if your source or display insists on using "Extended RGB" the AVM-50 will deal with that.
> 
> 
> The AVM-50 includes internally generated test charts. You use those to set your TV's video levels (the controls in your TV) to best match what the AVM-50 is sending out. Then you use the AVM-50's per-source level adjustments to fine tune as necessary for each of your sources. For example, you would use a calibration DVD in your standard DVD player to do this for that input source. For details, see the Video Calibration for Non-ISF Techs post linked in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> In the V1.10 or later software, the AVM-50 also implements Custom Gamma Correction curves. You can do either a gray scale correction curve, or do individual R, G, and B curves. Standard Gamma Correction options are also built-in if that's all you need. The Custom Gamma Correction stuff is set up and loaded into the AVM-50 using the Live Video Settings Editor application on a Windows PC. Once loaded into the AVM-50, the Custom Gamma Correction becomes a choice in the AVM-50's own Gamma Correction menu (Video Source Adjust / Output) on a per-input basis.
> 
> 
> Gamma Correction is in there primarily for experienced video calibrators who have light sensing tools to measure the results, and some knowledge of the compromises that need to be made according to each individual type of display. The curve settings themselves (in the application) are straightforward, but the consequences of making such adjustments are not. It is pretty easy to screw up your imaging if you fiddle with this stuff without understanding what you are doing. Anthem doesn't provide documentation on how to do this.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, I am an ISF calibrator and that's why I asked. I have a job coming up in which the projector's gray scale controls are limited. The client has an AVM50 and I was wondering if I could use its controls to further refine the gray scale.
> 
> 
> So this external application has such controls, but there is no documentation for how to use them?



That's correct. Or at least if Anthem has any documentation on them, I haven't seen it.


I'd suggest you give Anthem tech support a call and see if they have any notes written up on it they can email to you. This must have come up before from other calibrators.


The folks who've experimented with it here say that setting the response curve control points in the application is simple, and of course you measure the gray scale results in the usual way. You have the choice of using the internally generated gray bars chart in the AVM-50 or your own signal generator.


The AVM-50 also provides internally generated R, G, and B color step charts if you find you need to set separate R, G, and B response curves instead of just the gray scale curve.


To get to the Anthem's own test charts, select any input, press and hold the "7" key until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up, and then scroll over to the Patterns panel and down to the chart you want. Press Select to enter that chart. Press Back to exit the chart.


The choice of Gamma Correction is done in the same menu -- Video Source Adjust / Output / Gamma Correction. The default setting is "No Correction". The AVM-50 V1.1x users manual is available for download from the Anthem web site:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...OwnersMan.html 


The main Setup menu is used first, and then the Video Source Adjust menu is used on a per input basis.


Live Video Settings Editor on a Windows machine is used to enter your Custom Gamma Correction values (or other video settings -- i.e., you can make Video Source Adjust changes here as well). This will happen while video is live through the AVM-50 so you can get immediate feedback. You can also enter a Custom Video Output Resolution in there if necessary to get Native Rate on the display. Once uploaded, the Custom Resolution becomes selectable in the Setup / Video Output menu.


It is best to use a Windows machine with a real serial port instead of a USB/Serial adapter. You will need a "straight through" serial cable (pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9).


Adjustable "exponential" Gamma Correction (presumably of gray scale) is selectable directly from the Video Source Adjust / Output menu without having to enter any Custom values via Live Video Settings Editor. So you might want to try that first and see if that does the trick.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The only other variable I can think of, assuming the firmware baselines between the HD1/AVM50 & 94HD/D2 combos aren't enough of a variation (wouldn't bet the ranch), is the p24 settings.
> 
> 
> I was getting choppy video so I set to p60 into the Anthem. Didn't recall until source direct was mentioned. I have just had enough issues over time (close but no cigar) to leave it that way.



I have the p/24 settings off on the Pioneer. That may be the difference between our setups.


----------



## Melgon

Hi guys,


I received my new AVM-50 last week. One of the reasons I decided to go with this unit (other than the excellent audio quality/features) was the built-in Gennum VXP scaler. I have been using the NEC Theatersync video processor (Teranex Whitehorse HQV) and the DVDO VP-50 before. Here is my issue: Whenever I feed Component 480i from a DVD player (Sony DVP-CX777ES 400 disc DVD changer) and let the AVM-50 do the de-interlacing and scaling to 1080p/60, I get significant "jaggies" on the outlines of objects, etc. I have also tried a DENON DVD-2910 with 480i component output configuration. My projector is a SONY Pearl VP-VW50. I get a significant better (smooth) looking image from the Teranex HQV and DVDO processor with analog component 480i sources. I even get a better looking image when going from the analog component outputs directly into the projectorWhen I switch the DENON DVD-2910 to 480p mode the image quality improves. Shouldn't the Gennum VXP do a better job in de-interlacing than the built-in Faroudja chip inside the DVD player? Maybe I should attach a screen shot - the image looks like it has been divided in 2 pixel wide and 10 pixel tall vertical "sticks": Edges look jagged. Maybe I am spoilt and that is the best the Gennum VXP chip inside the AVM-50 can really do, but I refuse to believe that after I have read this thread and seen some of the photos posted here. 1080i sources (Blu-Ray and HD-DVD configured to 1080i output) look fine when de-interlaced to 1080p. I am an ISF calibrator and have collected significant experience with configuration and calibration with a number of consumer scaler/processor products and HD display devices but I expected more than this from this processor. I have no way to compare to another Gennum VXP product at this time. Other than that, the AVM-50 performs really well and I am impressed with the audio quality. Anyone else with 480i component sources?


-Helmut


----------



## Melgon

I just received an e-mail from Nick at Anthem. There was an issue with component-in regarding the video oversampling - this issue has been fixed. The software containing the fix is currently in beta testing. Once the testing is complete it will be on Anthem's web site.


Anthem's tech support is incredibly fast. Nick is awesome.


-Helmut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Melgon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> I received my new AVM-50 last week. One of the reasons I decided to go with this unit (other than the excellent audio quality/features) was the built-in Gennum VXP scaler. I have been using the NEC Theatersync video processor (Teranex Whitehorse HQV) and the DVDO VP-50 before. Here is my issue: Whenever I feed Component 480i from a DVD player (Sony DVP-CX777ES 400 disc DVD changer) and let the AVM-50 do the de-interlacing and scaling to 1080p/60, I get significant "jaggies" on the outlines of objects, etc. I have also tried a DENON DVD-2910 with 480i component output configuration. My projector is a SONY Pearl VP-VW50. I get a significant better (smooth) looking image from the Teranex HQV and DVDO processor with analog component 480i sources. I even get a better looking image when going from the analog component outputs directly into the projectorWhen I switch the DENON DVD-2910 to 480p mode the image quality improves. Shouldn't the Gennum VXP do a better job in de-interlacing than the built-in Faroudja chip inside the DVD player? Maybe I should attach a screen shot - the image looks like it has been divided in 2 pixel wide and 10 pixel tall vertical "sticks": Edges look jagged. Maybe I am spoilt and that is the best the Gennum VXP chip inside the AVM-50 can really do, but I refuse to believe that after I have read this thread and seen some of the photos posted here. 1080i sources (Blu-Ray and HD-DVD configured to 1080i output) look fine when de-interlaced to 1080p. I am an ISF calibrator and have collected significant experience with configuration and calibration with a number of consumer scaler/processor products and HD display devices but I expected more than this from this processor. I have no way to compare to another Gennum VXP product at this time. Other than that, the AVM-50 performs really well and I am impressed with the audio quality. Anyone else with 480i component sources?
> 
> 
> -Helmut


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why did you have to switch to Extended RGB?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


The DVI Studio RGB was given the "green tint" issue I had (typically when setting component 4:2:2 or 4:4:4). Personally I think it is very odd.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Melgon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just received an e-mail from Nick at Anthem. There was an issue with component-in regarding the video oversampling - this issue has been fixed. The software containing the fix is currently in beta testing. Once the testing is complete it will be on Anthem's web site.
> 
> 
> Anthem's tech support is incredibly fast. Nick is awesome.
> 
> 
> -Helmut



I'm glad you got the right answer so quickly! We have a number of posters here who have already installed the Beta software Nick is referring to, and it does, indeed, solve this problem.


It appears the general release of that software is about to happen. If there is a delay for any reason, I'm sure Nick would be happy to mail you the Beta software so you could install that.

--Bob


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Melgon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just received an e-mail from Nick at Anthem. There was an issue with component-in regarding the video oversampling - this issue has been fixed. The software containing the fix is currently in beta testing. Once the testing is complete it will be on Anthem's web site.
> 
> 
> Anthem's tech support is incredibly fast. Nick is awesome.
> 
> 
> -Helmut



Hmmm. Maybe that's why HDMI 480i looks so much better to me.


Dr. Hanks? You reading this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> The DVI Studio RGB was given the "green tint" issue I had (typically when setting component 4:2:2 or 4:4:4). Personally I think it is very odd.



Yes, indeed. That shouldn't be possible. I presume you passed this info back to Anthem.


I use DVI Studio RGB myself with my Fujitsu plasma and I'll be quite upset if it doesn't continue to work correctly in the new software.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm. Maybe that's why HDMI 480i looks so much better to me.
> 
> 
> Dr. Hanks? You reading this?



It is easy to tell if you've been bitten by this Component 480i bug. Fire up your Component 480i source device so that you see the jaggies problem (actually it is tearing). Then go to Video Source Adjust / Info and look at the value shown in there for the input video resolution.


The correct value is 480x720i.


The value if you have been bitten by this bug will be different -- most commonly 480x1440i.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm. Maybe that's why HDMI 480i looks so much better to me.
> 
> 
> Dr. Hanks? You reading this?



Component-In always looked good to me.


OK - I only use Component-In at 1080i

from the DVRs







Do you think that makes

a difference.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Dr. Hanks? You reading this?



The AVS forum must have the same jaggy problem.


There is no s in my name







it is a z










In some cases the lines should not be smoother out


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> The DVI Studio RGB was given the "green tint" issue I had (typically when setting component 4:2:2 or 4:4:4). Personally I think it is very odd.



Since this is so odd, I want to confirm which of these you are seeing:


1) Video imagery appears almost monochrome green, or


2) Reds and Blues appear correct in the imagery, but green objects are significantly over or under-saturated -- usually about a 15% green push or green depression.


Case (1) would be a problem with the Data Format setting.


Case (2) is more likely a problem with the HDTV/SDTV Color Space setting.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, indeed. That shouldn't be possible. I presume you passed this info back to Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Of course


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since this is so odd, I want to confirm which of these you are seeing:
> 
> 
> 1) Video imagery appears almost monochrome green, or
> 
> 
> 2) Reds and Blues appear correct in the imagery, but green objects are significantly over or under-saturated -- usually about a 15% green push or green depression.
> 
> 
> Case (1) would be a problem with the Data Format setting.
> 
> 
> Case (2) is more likely a problem with the HDTV/SDTV Color Space setting.
> 
> --Bob



Case 2 may be it, I believe the color space to auto in changing from HDTV in the prior to 12q, though it seems to work fine now between HD & SD sources set to extended.


It is more than a slight push, it's a saturation & posterization of the picture typically in light colored areas (e.g., skin, walls).


I'll switch back to HDTV color space only and try Studio RGB.


----------



## rudolpht

OK, the tint seems to be gone, but I'll need to do a cold start. Given that today was the first time I didn't have to try to get the setup menu trick to get video to sync, etc. (life in the beta zone), I hate to mess with something that "works." Maybe I need to understand Extended RGB vs my WmPhelps multiple colorspace calibrated settings. Bottom line, I'm pretty sure the Studio RGB settings should work in the production release.


----------



## Melgon

Bob,


You hit on the nail. 480x1440i is what is displayed for the 480i component input resolution info. I will ask Nick to e-mail me the beta firmware. If anyone else should have this firmware on their computer, please email it to me: [email protected] .

I'm still awake and need something to do










Thank you.


-Helmut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is easy to tell if you've been bitten by this Component 480i bug. Fire up your Component 480i source device so that you see the jaggies problem (actually it is tearing). Then go to Video Source Adjust / Info and look at the value shown in there for the input video resolution.
> 
> 
> The correct value is 480x720i.
> 
> 
> The value if you have been bitten by this bug will be different -- most commonly 480x1440i.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Melgon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> You hit on the nail. 480x1440i is what is displayed for the 480i component input resolution info. I will ask Nick to e-mail me the beta firmware. If anyone else should have this firmware on their computer, please email it to me: [email protected] .
> 
> I'm still awake and need something to do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> -Helmut



The version others have used to fix this problem is V1.11g. You need the software for the AVM-50 of course. The D2 software is a different file since the hardware is different.


I don't have this for you, since I have a D2.


Now the V1.11g software is known to have significant problems with certain devices, most notably the Toshiba XA2 player. So Nick may prefer to get you onto a newer version, quite possibly one of the V1.12 Beta software versions since that's closer to what the real release software will be.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, the tint seems to be gone, but I'll need to do a cold start. Given that today was the first time I didn't have to try to get the setup menu trick to get video to sync, etc. (life in the beta zone), I hate to mess with something that "works." Maybe I need to understand Extended RGB vs my WmPhelps multiple colorspace calibrated settings. Bottom line, I'm pretty sure the Studio RGB settings should work in the production release.



Remember that you've got Color Space settings both on the output side (Setup / Video Output) and on the input side (Video Source Adjust / Picture).


If your input side setting got confused somehow for one or more of your overlayed sources that may be the real cause of what seems to be an output color space problem.


I don't really trust the Auto stuff for DVI displays anyway, either for the output Color Space or Data Format settings.


But Auto YCbCr Color Space selection for the inputs is almost always what you want.

--Bob


----------



## Melgon

Bob,


Very interesting. My HD-DVD player is in fact a XA2 and I DO have HDMI problems with (only) this HDMI source. My AVM-50 was shipped with V1.11. Not sure if it is the "g" version.


I hope Nick will e-mail me the latest V1.12.


Thank you.


-Helmut





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The version others have used to fix this problem is V1.11g. You need the software for the AVM-50 of course. The D2 software is a different file since the hardware is different.
> 
> 
> I don't have this for you, since I have a D2.
> 
> 
> Now the V1.11g software is known to have significant problems with certain devices, most notably the Toshiba XA2 player. So Nick may prefer to get you onto a newer version, quite possibly one of the V1.12 Beta software versions since that's closer to what the real release software will be.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Melgon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Very interesting. My HD-DVD player is in fact a XA2 and I DO have HDMI problems with (only) this HDMI source. My AVM-50 was shipped with V1.11. Not sure if it is the "g" version.
> 
> 
> I hope Nick will e-mail me the latest V1.12.
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> -Helmut



You likely have the original, "V1.11" version from last November. The factory is still installing that on new units and that's still the version available for download from the Anthem web site. Press Select on the remote and the version number will display in the On Screen Display and in the front panel display. If you have one of the newer versions, the extra letter will display, i.e, "V1.11g".


The XA2 has proven to be a tricky source device for HDMI. It was one of the first HDMI V1.3 devices and apparently Toshiba did some screwy stuff that Anthem is trying to work around. The V1.11e version has been the best one for XA2 owners until recently. It looks like the new V1.12q version (the most recent Beta test software reported here) is getting closer to having all the issues with the XA2 fixed.


However the the V1.11g version really doesn't work well with it at all. You likely won't get audio over HDMI from the XA2 with the V1.11g version. So you might want to wait until you can get a V1.12q (or later) version from Nick.


By the way, if any of your Component devices can be set to 480p output instead of 480i you won't have the bug you are experiencing. This might be an easier workaround until you can get good software. But do go back to 480i once you get that new software so that the AVM-50 can do the de-interlacing for you.

--Bob


----------



## abc999

For sometime now, I have just been reading daily the new post because I don't have a problem with 1.11. when I installed 1.12q, I saw an improvement with blu-ray as I can now see what 23.98 fps looks like. But this was short lived because after an hour of use, there was an intermitent signal loss. This happened for several times and finally no signal at all. I tried reverting back to 1.11 thinking going back to the firmware I had before will solve the problem. The video was back but after 20 minutes or so, the same problem surfaced again.


I then tried other firmware versions but . I got several OKI malfunctions. I stopped at 2 am as I have dead tired trying to solve the problem. In the afternoon, I tried loading 1.12q again and it successfully loaded after 4 tries. Everything was well again, but after 40 minutes again, the same problem is at it again. I emailed Nick hoping for a quick fix.


Any thoughts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For sometime now, I have just been reading daily the new post because I don't have a problem with 1.11. when I installed 1.12q, I saw an improvement with blu-ray as I can now see what 23.98 fps looks like. But this was short lived because after an hour of use, there was an intermitent signal loss. This happened for several times and finally no signal at all. I tried reverting back to 1.11 thinking going back to the firmware I had before will solve the problem. The video was back but after 20 minutes or so, the same problem surfaced again.
> 
> 
> I then tried other firmware versions but . I got several OKI malfunctions. I stopped at 2 am as I have dead tired trying to solve the problem. In the afternoon, I tried loading 1.12q again and it successfully loaded after 4 tries. Everything was well again, but after 40 minutes again, the same problem is at it again. I emailed Nick hoping for a quick fix.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?



What is your source device?


My first thought, given the timing of the failure, is that you have a heat issue.


Set up a fan to provide increased ventilation over the Anthem and see if that makes the problem go away.


The heat generated when the unit is doing /24Hz could possibly be different than when it is doing /60Hz, and if your ventilation is marginal that might be making the difference. Also there have been previous reports of the PS3 causing extra heat generation in the Anthem. Since the PS3 is HDMI V1.3, I'm wondering whether you are using it or using a Toshiba XA2.


----------------------------------------------------


The OKI loader complaint while attempting to reload V1.11 is just the old problem with the original V1.11 software installer application. It has problems running correctly on some Windows computers. That was fixed around version V1.11c. Using a different computer may make the V1.11 reinstall work for you. Or just get the V1.11e version from Nick and use that in lieu of the original V1.11 to go back to an earlier version than V1.12q.


What sort of complaint were you getting when you tried to load V1.12q? Are you using a computer with a real serial port or are you using a USB/Serial adapter?


Also, make sure you have no live HDMI connections when are doing the software install. It is best to disconnect each of your HDMI source devices from wall power, and also your HDMI display from wall power, as quite a few HDMI devices keep their HDMI sockets powered even when the device itself appears to be turned off. The install will fail if you have any powered HDMI connections while the install is running.

--Bob


----------



## Florindi

Hi All,


Can someone please send me the latest beta software? For some reason I cannot post my email address. I need to post a min a 5 times before I can list my email.


Thanks,

Anthony


----------



## Florindi

bump


----------



## Florindi

bump bump


----------



## Florindi

bump bump bump


----------



## Florindi

Here is my email address [email protected]


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Florindi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> Can someone please send me the latest beta software? For some reason I cannot post my email address. I need to post a min a 5 times before I can list my email.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Anthony



Anthony, your best bet is to get it from Anthem tech support. Call or email them and they will email it to you. They are quite quick to respond. They may have a newer version than anyone here has and it is helpful to them to know who is running what version so that they can track problems or success.


In any event, you need to state whether you have an AVM-50 or a D2 as the software file is different.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is your source device?
> 
> 
> My first thought, given the timing of the failure, is that you have a heat issue.
> 
> 
> Set up a fan to provide increased ventilation over the Anthem and see if that makes the problem go away.
> 
> 
> The heat generated when the unit is doing /24Hz could possibly be different than when it is doing /60Hz, and if your ventilation is marginal that might be making the difference. Also there have been previous reports of the PS3 causing extra heat generation in the Anthem. Since the PS3 is HDMI V1.3, I'm wondering whether you are using it or using a Toshiba XA2.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The OKI loader complaint while attempting to reload V1.11 is just the old problem with the original V1.11 software installer application. It has problems running correctly on some Windows computers. That was fixed around version V1.11c. Using a different computer may make the V1.11 reinstall work for you. Or just get the V1.11e version from Nick and use that in lieu of the original V1.11 to go back to an earlier version than V1.12q.
> 
> 
> What sort of complaint were you getting when you tried to load V1.12q? Are you using a computer with a real serial port or are you using a USB/Serial adapter?
> 
> 
> Also, make sure you have no live HDMI connections when are doing the software install. It is best to disconnect each of your HDMI source devices from wall power, and also your HDMI display from wall power, as quite a few HDMI devices keep their HDMI sockets powered even when the device itself appears to be turned off. The install will fail if you have any powered HDMI connections while the install is running.
> 
> --Bob



That was my first guess also, but the unit is place on top of an audio cabinet with no bounderies nearby and the air conditioning is quite good. The anthem is warm but its not unussually warm.


Source component yesterday was PS3 doing 24fps. This afternoon was just the pioneer DV59 doing 480i and video output is 1080p/60. Still the problem exist.


I used the same computer that I used before when I loaded from 1.06 to 1.11. I was getting stuck always on the OKI issue. On the 4th try, it was successful.


What if, I try 1.12q again with all HDMI cables unplugged from the avm50?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That was my first guess also, but the unit is place on top of an audio cabinet with no bounderies nearby and the air conditioning is quite good. The anthem is warm but its not unussually warm.
> 
> 
> Source component yesterday was PS3 doing 24fps. This afternoon was just the pioneer DV59 doing 480i and video output is 1080p/60. Still the problem exist.
> 
> 
> I used the same computer that I used before when I loaded from 1.06 to 1.11. I was getting stuck always on the OKI issue. On the 4th try, it was successful.
> 
> 
> What if, I try 1.12q again with all HDMI cables unplugged from the avm50?



If the install fails because you have a powered HDMI connection you will get an error message. If the install completed without an error message then re-doing it shouldn't make a difference. But it certainly doesn't hurt to try.


Be sure you are following the install instructions that came with V1.12q.


You should definitely get in touch with Anthem and report your issues.

--Bob


----------



## Florindi

Hi Bob,


I have a AVM50. I called anthem and they addressed my pink screen problem by changing my setting from Auto to Extended RGB. I recall reading about that the newer beta software works better with the PS3 v1.80. Is that true? Do I need the beta software?


-Anthony


----------



## aus

I have an AVM50 and I'm using Zone 2 with component video. The run is a little long and I'm not getting enough volume to the TV via RCA. Is there anyway to boost the analog output signal to Zone 2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Florindi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I have a AVM50. I called anthem and they addressed my pink screen problem by changing my setting from Auto to Extended RGB. I recall reading about that the newer beta software works better with the PS3 v1.80. Is that true? Do I need the beta software?
> 
> 
> -Anthony



We haven't had enough reports here about the PS3 and the Anthem V1.12 software versions to know for sure.


It's known that the V1.11g version has trouble with the PS3, and that there are cases where the PS3's HDMI causes the Anthem video processor to overheat with various V1.11 versions (workaround: Position an external fan). Both of those are likely being addressed in the V1.12 software but I can't tell whether they have been fixed yet.


Anthem tech support would likely be your best source of the latest info on this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50 and I'm using Zone 2 with component video. The run is a little long and I'm not getting enough volume to the TV via RCA. Is there anyway to boost the analog output signal to Zone 2?



Press the Z2 button in the green section at the top of the remote (to tell the remote that you now want to control the Zone 2 features of the AVM-50), and then press Volume Up/Down on the remote until your Zone 2 volume is where you want it.


If you'd rather have a Zone 2 power on volume closer to your normal listening level, or if you prefer to use the Volume Lock feature (so that the Volume buttons on the remote instead control your TV's own volume up/down instead of controlling the Anthem) then go to Setup / Volumes and Rename Paths and set the Zone 2 On Volume to something higher than the default -35dB.

--Bob


----------



## aus

Bob, so if I turn up the volume on the Anthem, it'll increase the RCA output to the Zone 2 TV? I'm not using the Anthem to control volume on Zone 2, just the volume switch on the TV. I'll give it a try. Thanks again.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't really trust the Auto stuff for DVI displays anyway, either for the output Color Space or Data Format settings.
> 
> 
> But Auto YCbCr Color Space selection for the inputs is almost always what you want.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, as always. This is the first I have played with Auto color space as I watch HD almost all the time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, so if I turn up the volume on the Anthem, it'll increase the RCA output to the Zone 2 TV? I'm not using the Anthem to control volume on Zone 2, just the volume switch on the TV. I'll give it a try. Thanks again.



Yes. By default the Zone 2 analog audio output is nearly muted (-35dB) when you power on the Anthem. You can change the default in Setup / Volumes and Rename Paths.


Use the Z2 and Volume Up/Down buttons to find a convenient Zone 2 volume in the Anthem (in conjunction with a normal volume setting on your Zone 2 TV itself) and then go into the Setup menu and set that as the power on default for Zone 2.


------------------------------------------------------


You need to think of the Anthem as 3 different, separately controllable devices all housed in one box. The Anthem's "universal" remote is used to control all 3. You tell the remote which one you want to control at the moment with those green buttons at the top -- just as you could tell the remote you now want it to control your DVD player for example.


Volume for the Anthem's Main signal path is independent of the volume for its Zone 2 signal path and also for its Zone 3 signal path.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi

There is now a workaround for the Freezes caused by the BDP-HD1 and BDP-94HD the latest firmware when connected to the D2.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post10774243


----------



## mr_fitz

I have the D2 hooked up to an MCA50 and I turn the power amp on and off by the remote trigger when I power the D2. Any option in the D2 so that my speakers don't pop when I shut off the D2?


Thanks


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the D2 hooked up to an MCA50 and I turn the power amp on and off by the remote trigger when I power the D2. Any option in the D2 so that my speakers don't pop when I shut off the D2?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



This is likely an issue in your MCA50. It is not adequately muting it's outputs during the transition to Standby. I don't know if this is normal for the MCA50.


The D2's trigger change for power off occurs before the D2 itself goes into Standby so the MCA50 should already be shut down before anything could happen on the D2's own outputs that might cause such a pop. [I believe the D2 may mute its outputs prior to the trigger change, but I'm not sure of that.]


To verify that this is an MCA50 issue, turn everything on, mute the audio output from the D2, and then physically disconnect the trigger wire from the D2 to the MCA50 so that only the MCA50 is shutting down. If you still get a pop, then it has to be an MCA50 issue.


Your best bet is likely to call Anthem tech support and see if they have any suggestions.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If the install fails because you have a powered HDMI connection you will get an error message. If the install completed without an error message then re-doing it shouldn't make a difference. But it certainly doesn't hurt to try.
> 
> 
> Be sure you are following the install instructions that came with V1.12q.
> 
> 
> You should definitely get in touch with Anthem and report your issues.
> 
> --Bob




I will still heed your advice on the external fan as it can't hurt to give it more air. After 8 hrs. of rest, I finally succeeded in loading 1.12q in 1 pass. Haven't use the unit yet, not until I have a fan installed.


----------



## Melgon

I received V1.12q from Nick today and it sure took care of the 480i component problem. I had to set the flow control for my USB-to-Serial adapter on my Windows laptop from "None" to "Xon/Xoff" to make the upgrade work. I did not have the time to test my XA2 with the new firmware yet, however I did have 6-channel PCM from the XA2 with V1.11 that the unit came with. Thank you all for your help.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You likely have the original, "V1.11" version from last November. The factory is still installing that on new units and that's still the version available for download from the Anthem web site. Press Select on the remote and the version number will display in the On Screen Display and in the front panel display. If you have one of the newer versions, the extra letter will display, i.e, "V1.11g".
> 
> 
> The XA2 has proven to be a tricky source device for HDMI. It was one of the first HDMI V1.3 devices and apparently Toshiba did some screwy stuff that Anthem is trying to work around. The V1.11e version has been the best one for XA2 owners until recently. It looks like the new V1.12q version (the most recent Beta test software reported here) is getting closer to having all the issues with the XA2 fixed.
> 
> 
> However the the V1.11g version really doesn't work well with it at all. You likely won't get audio over HDMI from the XA2 with the V1.11g version. So you might want to wait until you can get a V1.12q (or later) version from Nick.
> 
> 
> By the way, if any of your Component devices can be set to 480p output instead of 480i you won't have the bug you are experiencing. This might be an easier workaround until you can get good software. But do go back to 480i once you get that new software so that the AVM-50 can do the de-interlacing for you.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## gostan

Our Friend Tolstoi posted the following handshaking solution on the Pioneer BDP1/94HD thread to solve the handshaking issue between the Pioneer Blu-ray players and the D2.



> Quote:
> Posted By Tolstoi:
> 
> I am still experiencing the freeze when connected through the D2. I stated in one of my previous post the freeze seams to happen at the begging and if the original sync is done properly the playback is solid. Working with those parameters I found the pattern that cause the freeze and a nice workaround that is working constantly on my setup. The freeze happen during the disk load. There is something that is not properly exchange during the BDP-HD1 power sequence when connected to the D2. When the player load the disk it just freeze. The is happening when you power the unit with a disk already in the tray and let it load, and when you power up the disk tray empty and then put a disk in the player.
> 
> 
> The work around I found is as following:
> 
> 
> When I power-on the BDP-HD1, I switch the D2 to any HDMI inputs other then the BDP-HD1 input. I let the BR player go through its power-on sequence, I put a disk in the tray, disk load, until I see the time counter appearing on the player display and the time start to increment. When this point is achieved, I switch the D2 to the BDP-HD1 HDMI input and the sync is done properly and rock solid.
> 
> 
> From that point I could do anything, change output format to anything including 1080p24, stop/start, Go play in Home Gallery or Setup, change disk, change HDMI input on the D2, even cycle power on the D2, and the resynch is done normally and the playback is rock solid. Meanwhile, if I power off the player and try to restart the player with the D2 connected to the BPD-HD1 HDMI input, the player will freeze again unless I go back to the workaround.



This fix has worked fine so far for Brian & I and I thought that it should be posted here. Maybe one of the owners still having issues with the Toshiba XA-2 might consider trying this with the D2 to see if it helps with that combo/issue.


Thanks again Tolstoi!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Melgon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I received V1.12q from Nick today and it sure took care of the 480i component problem. I had to set the flow control for my USB-to-Serial adapter on my Windows laptop from "None" to "Xon/Xoff" to make the upgrade work. I did not have the time to test my XA2 with the new firmware yet, however I did have 6-channel PCM from the XA2 with V1.11 that the unit came with. Thank you all for your help.



Great news! OK, we now know that V1.12q ALSO can be used to fix the Component 480i problem for anyone who gets bit by it.


And a good tip on "Xon/Xoff" for folks trying to use USB/Serial adapters. I've added that to the "Belt and Suspenders Approach to Doing an Install" post linked off the first post in this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If anyone with V1.12q happens to have either a Velodyne DD series subwoofer or their SMS-1 sub equalizer product I'd be curious to know whether V1.12q can recognize and scale the S-video user interface display from either of those.


Up to now, the S-video from those only works "pass through" in the D2 or AVM-50, i.e., S-video in to S-video out. You get a black screen and no input signal detected if you send it to the scaler for HDMI output.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

While we are on nuisance bugs, another one that should be fixed by now is the bug that causes the Video Source Adjust / Scale Out setting of whichever input happens to be selected at power up to sometimes change unexpectedly.


I.e., for whichever that input happens to be, powering up the Anthem may change Scale Out = Letter/ Pillar Box to Anamorphic unexpectedly so that you have to switch it back manually.


Has anybody with V1.12q seen a recurrence of that?


------------------------------------------------


We also had a report that use of the Simulcast feature was difficult because of a conflict between the way the input selection buttons were interpreted in the V1.10 and V1.11 software. The problem was that attempting to press the combo of buttons to do a Simlucast selection had the undesired effect of switching to a different overlayed input.


------------------------------------------------


Folks who have a Music speaker configuration with the subwoofer unused should also be alert for whether you hear audio unexpectedly coming from the subwoofer anyway. I think that was fixed by the V1.11e version, but since we had so few people trying this and reporting, I'm not sure.


-----------------------------------------------


It would also be good to know if folks using HTPC sources are now able to get things working correctly WITHOUT having to insert a Geffen DVI Detective between the HTPC and the Anthem.


-----------------------------------------------


And we need to know how well the PS3 is working with V1.12q. Any problems getting HDMI audio? What about the problem of the PS3 causing the Anthem's video processor to overheat and shut down?


-----------------------------------------------


And does the Film Mode status indicator in Video Source Adjust / Info seem to be reporting correct status?


-----------------------------------------------


And of course we need to know if any progress has been made on 1080i/60 (or 480i/60) input to 1080p/24 output for film-based content.


-----------------------------------------------


I'm presuming the infamous 1080i/1080p problems from V1.10 and V1.11 for both Component and HDMI remain fixed, and also that HDMI handshake is improved both at power on and when switching sources.


Just stuff to keep in mind when you are testing V1.12q.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Another good thing to hear about would be if anyone has discovered they needed to make any significant changes in either their video or audio calibration settings with V1.12q compared to what they used with any V1.11 release. Enough stuff has changed in V1.12q that this might be the case, but it would be useful to know whether we can tell folks that your previous audio/video levels will likely continue to work just fine when you switch to V1.12q.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE

1.12q for me:


-PS3 and Samsung BD-P1200, both working perfectly at *1080p24* in and out.









-Toshiba HD-XA2 works perfectly at 1080p60.

-Star Choice DSR530, no problems.


Everything is stable with fast handshakes for me. 1.12q is working great in my system.


----------



## Tolstoi

I am playing to install 1.12q Tomorrow night and star playing with.


----------



## barhoram

Anyone driving a Professional Panasonic Plasma with thier D2? I'm looking at a TH-42PH9UK for use a secondary display over component (this will be for my office which is already wired for component). Anyone have this or a similar combo? How do these 2 match up?


Since my theater display is HDMI, I guess I would have to use the Unprossed Zone 2 component output?


----------



## Fishysan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It would also be good to know if folks using HTPC sources are now able to get things working correctly WITHOUT having to insert a Geffen DVI Detective between the HTPC and the Anthem.



When I first got the D2 with 1.11 I had the 1080i component bug, and I couldn't get my HTPC to work at all.


Nick promptly sent me v1.11e, with 1.11e 1080i was fixed, and my HTPC got proper EDID from the D2 and I was able to use it perfectly with 1080p60, etc. without any gadgetry in between.


All was lovely.. for a while.


Unfortunately my D2 died on me, and it's in the shop being taken care of. Hopefully I'll get it back soon. I'm not sure what happened, but it may have been a problem with the main motherboard failing.. and could have been related to the PS3 & heat? Though it's open to 4 sides, etc. etc. Haven't heard yet what was needing fixing. I was getting digital audio garble, and then lost audio, etc. Video was fine.


Like always, Anthem's taking good care of things.


I'm looking forward to getting it back and getting 24fps through to the RS1 from the PS3, etc.


Cheers.


----------



## sfield




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> While we are on nuisance bugs, another one that should be fixed by now is the bug that causes the Video Source Adjust / Scale Out setting of whichever input happens to be selected at power up to sometimes change unexpectedly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> It would also be good to know if folks using HTPC sources are now able to get things working correctly WITHOUT having to insert a Geffen DVI Detective between the HTPC and the Anthem.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> And we need to know how well the PS3 is working with V1.12q. Any problems getting HDMI audio? What about the problem of the PS3 causing the Anthem's video processor to overheat and shut down?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course we need to know if any progress has been made on 1080i/60 (or 480i/60) input to 1080p/24 output for film-based content.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just stuff to keep in mind when you are testing V1.12q.
> 
> --Bob



1080i60 -> 1080p24 still doesn't work with 1.12q.

I still need the Gefen DVI detective in place between the HTPC and the D2.


The Sony PS3 1.80 firmware with 24p support works properly with the D2 1.12q firmware, with that input set to framelock=auto.



I hit a new issue with 1.12q on a spurious basis. In my system, I have the D2 HDMI output feeding a Gefen HDMI 1->2 splitter. This feeds the Sony Pearl projector, and a 1080p LCD panel. In some cases, when I only turn on the LCD panel, and the D2, there is no video output to the LCD panel. In this situation, I have to turn on the Pearl, and then the LCD gets video output. Once the LCD is displaying video, I can turn off the Pearl. Also, I've observed a couple of cases where the color space is messed up on the Pearl at power on, if the last viewing session was LCD display only. (The LCD panel is DVI, whereas the Pearl is HDMI). I hadn't seen this occur before.


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> While we are on nuisance bugs, another one that should be fixed by now is the bug that causes the Video Source Adjust / Scale Out setting of whichever input happens to be selected at power up to sometimes change unexpectedly.
> 
> 
> I.e., for whichever that input happens to be, powering up the Anthem may change Scale Out = Letter/ Pillar Box to Anamorphic unexpectedly so that you have to switch it back manually.
> 
> 
> Has anybody with V1.12q seen a recurrence of that?
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> We also had a report that use of the Simulcast feature was difficult because of a conflict between the way the input selection buttons were interpreted in the V1.10 and V1.11 software. The problem was that attempting to press the combo of buttons to do a Simlucast selection had the undesired effect of switching to a different overlayed input.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Folks who have a Music speaker configuration with the subwoofer unused should also be alert for whether you hear audio unexpectedly coming from the subwoofer anyway. I think that was fixed by the V1.11e version, but since we had so few people trying this and reporting, I'm not sure.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> It would also be good to know if folks using HTPC sources are now able to get things working correctly WITHOUT having to insert a Geffen DVI Detective between the HTPC and the Anthem.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> And we need to know how well the PS3 is working with V1.12q. Any problems getting HDMI audio? What about the problem of the PS3 causing the Anthem's video processor to overheat and shut down?
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> And does the Film Mode status indicator in Video Source Adjust / Info seem to be reporting correct status?
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> And of course we need to know if any progress has been made on 1080i/60 (or 480i/60) input to 1080p/24 output for film-based content.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I'm presuming the infamous 1080i/1080p problems from V1.10 and V1.11 for both Component and HDMI remain fixed, and also that HDMI handshake is improved both at power on and when switching sources.
> 
> 
> Just stuff to keep in mind when you are testing V1.12q.
> 
> --Bob



It would also be good to know if folks using HTPC sources are now able to get things working correctly WITHOUT having to insert a Geffen DVI Detective between the HTPC and the Anthem.

No change Bob. Nvidia 7800 GTX HTPC


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Looks like we may be welcoming a well known Pioneer rep to the Anthem D2 Owner's Club. Chris Walker (Walkamo) just posted in the Pioneer BDP-HD1/94HD thread that "It looks like I might end up a D2 owner as well......"


Since so many of us Anthem owners own a Pioneer BD player, this can only be good news!


----------



## Melgon

1.12q has also been working OK for me.

It is interesting that you mention that the HD-XA2 works perfectly at 1080p60.

Here is what's happening: After powering up the AVM-50 and selecting the proper input, I am powering up the HD-XA2 (1080i HDMI output). The image looks like a combination of a "mosaic with a little bit of Picasso" - the image is digital garbage. I can barely read items in the setup menu - the colors are screwed up.

I am changing the XA-2 output resolution to 1080p. The image turns immediately mormal. I am power-cycling the XA-2. The image still looks normal. I am changing the XA-2 output resolution back to 1080i. The image is normal. I am power cycling the XA-2. This time the image looks normal. This happened twice yesterday and today.

Anyone?


-Helmut





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1.12q for me:
> 
> 
> -PS3 and Samsung BD-P1200, both working perfectly at *1080p24* in and out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Toshiba HD-XA2 works perfectly at 1080p60.
> 
> -Star Choice DSR530, no problems.
> 
> 
> Everything is stable with fast handshakes for me. 1.12q is working great in my system.


----------



## rudolpht

Besides not carrying over all the video output parameters on a reload and the fact that some sources (w/o the go to setup menu & back trick) startup with Out of Range requiring an Anthem reboot. I'm sure hoping the latter can be fixed as it really does cause a hassle on something that was rock solid and unnerving now. Otherwise 12q is a BIG hit.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Otherwise 12q is a BIG hit.



1.12q is the best release I had since weeks. The new user interface is pretty cool. I am currently playing with 2 different projectors, one 720p and 1080p, the new 1.12 is adding the ability to use two different video output config. No need anymore to change the video output parameters when I swap projector. I just needed to create new source (DVD2 etc.. that are using the second video config).


The gamma curve editor is really cool and Anthem provided additional setting to play with for calibration.


The new user interface for the setup editor is easier to use.


Overall 1.12 is good progress in stability and user feature.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks like we may be welcoming a well known Pioneer rep to the Anthem D2 Owner's Club. Chris Walker (Walkamo) just posted in the Pioneer BDP-HD1/94HD thread that "It looks like I might end up a D2 owner as well......"
> 
> 
> Since so many of us Anthem owners own a Pioneer BD player, this can only be good news!



I want to take CREDIT for that SALE


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Besides not carrying over all the video output parameters on a reload and the fact that some sources (w/o the go to setup menu & back trick) startup with Out of Range requiring an Anthem reboot.



Did you follow the firmware instructions closely? All my parameters and user settings were there after upgrading to 1.12q. Not a single setting missing. You have to save in 3 places: user settings in the D2, then with the software utility, and then from LVSE. And then reload everything in that order exactly. There is a long list of steps, but you have to do them exactly like Anthem are telling us to do them. Don't skip a step!










With the JVC HD-1, PS3 and Toshiba HD-XA2, I never got a single out of range message in the last 5 days. I'm really impressed with that firmware. My handshakes are now all really fast and stable. Not a single pink or green screen.


And 1080p24 is working flawlessly with the PS3. Not a single glitch.










And the 2 video ouput configuration is wicked. My video 1 out is 1080p24, and the video 2 is 1080p60, so the PS3 is using video 1 and my XA2 and Sat decoder are using video 2. Great idea!


BTW, I'm waiting for the official firmware before updating the first page of the thread. But all I have to say for now is follow all the steps and instructions to upgrade your firmware closely and don't skip one! There is alot of changes in that new firmware, so take your time to do it properly!


----------



## IcemanDallas

I'm considering an amp upgrade and I wanted some input on the Anthem products in a system that is primarily for music. I did a search and most of the comments in this thread seem to be HT oriented. I have a pair of Gallo 3.1's driven by a Pioneer 84TXS and the Gallo subamp. I will continue in the short term to use the Pioneer as a preamp and I have a chance to pick up a P2. Any thoughts or comments on this combination? Thanks!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did you follow the firmware instructions closely? All my parameters and user settings were there after upgrading to 1.12q. Not a single setting missing. You have to save in 3 places: user settings in the D2, then with the software utility, and then from LVSE. And then reload everything in that order exactly. There is a long list of steps, but you have to do them exactly like Anthem are telling us to do them. Don't skip a step!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the JVC HD-1, PS3 and Toshiba HD-XA2, I never got a single out of range message in the last 5 days. I'm really impressed with that firmware. My handshakes are now all really fast and stable. Not a single pink or green screen.
> 
> 
> And 1080p24 is working flawlessly with the PS3. Not a single glitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the 2 video ouput configuration is wicked. My video 1 out is 1080p24, and the video 2 is 1080p60, so the PS3 is using video 1 and my XA2 and Sat decoder are using video 2. Great idea!
> 
> 
> BTW, I'm waiting for the official firmware before updating the first page of the thread. But all I have to say for now is follow all the steps and instructions to upgrade your firmware closely and don't skip one! There is alot of changes in that new firmware, so take your time to do it properly!



This is a good point I forgot to mention, going from 1.12n to 1.12q I haven't lost any of the setting.


I am running at 1080p24 with the Benq W9000 for Blu-Ray playback and this is quite stable and the handshake with the BDP-HD1 is a bit slow though but nothing major. It is also stable for the SCI8300HD.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IcemanDallas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm considering an amp upgrade and I wanted some input on the Anthem products in a system that is primarily for music. I did a search and most of the comments in this thread seem to be HT oriented. I have a pair of Gallo 3.1's driven by a Pioneer 84TXS and the Gallo subamp. I will continue in the short term to use the Pioneer as a preamp and I have a chance to pick up a P2. Any thoughts or comments on this combination? Thanks!




IcemanDallas,


I have a p5 and a P2 to the D2. I can tell you that that the P2 and the P5 for that matter, run very cold, extremely quiet (virtually no sound that I can hear with the rack open sitting right next to it). I have never felt any deficit in either available punch or any colourization at peak or normal listening levels. With the Gallos you should find a very comfortable fit with the result that the speaker should recede and the music should come forward if that makes sense. Obviously I think its a great amp for music so forgive my bias. The reason you find the HT bias in this thread as I have already observed earlier, is that the audio is generally accepted in these quarters as advanced and superior to most if not all technology in this class. The emphasis on the pre pro is very exciting stuff when its placed with such a strong history in the audio realm.


My advice is to try and listen to the P2 in your environment first. If thats not possible and it has to be a blind buy, I can't think of any reason not to go ahead and I believe you are in for a treat with the Gallos.


Peter


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can tell you that that the P2 and the P5 for that matter, run very cold, extremely quiet (virtually no sound that I can hear with the rack open sitting right next to it).



Hi Peter. Both the P2 and P5 use completely passive cooling (no fans). Why wouldn't they be completely dead silent? Transformer hum? Something else? (Just wondering why you mention that they're extremely quiet since I don't see how they could be anything other than completely quiet unless there's something I overlooked)










Kal


----------



## IcemanDallas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> IcemanDallas,
> 
> 
> I have a p5 and a P2 to the D2. I can tell you that that the P2 and the P5 for that matter, run very cold, extremely quiet (virtually no sound that I can hear with the rack open sitting right next to it). I have never felt any deficit in either available punch or any colourization at peak or normal listening levels. With the Gallos you should find a very comfortable fit with the result that the speaker should recede and the music should come forward if that makes sense. Obviously I think its a great amp for music so forgive my bias. The reason you find the HT bias in this thread as I have already observed earlier, is that the audio is generally accepted in these quarters as advanced and superior to most if not all technology in this class. The emphasis on the pre pro is very exciting stuff when its placed with such a strong history in the audio realm.
> 
> 
> My advice is to try and listen to the P2 in your environment first. If thats not possible and it has to be a blind buy, I can't think of any reason not to go ahead and I believe you are in for a treat with the Gallos.
> 
> 
> Peter



Thanks nine ball, this is what I was looking for. My receiver puts out 140 wpc but I feel something is missing at lower volumes, mainly in the midrange area. I was hoping a higher current amp might bring the mids forward and you indicate that it might. Bass is already tight and deep since I have the subamp. I can't afford a D2 at this point and I like the connectivity options, especially HDMI, that the receiver provides so I'll have to leave it in placefor now. It will be a blind buy but I'll probably pull the trigger and hope for the best.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks like we may be welcoming a well known Pioneer rep to the Anthem D2 Owner's Club. Chris Walker (Walkamo) just posted in the Pioneer BDP-HD1/94HD thread that "It looks like I might end up a D2 owner as well......"
> 
> 
> Since so many of us Anthem owners own a Pioneer BD player, this can only be good news!



What does this say about Pioneer audio products......


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> .... And 1080p24 is working flawlessly with the PS3. Not a single glitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the 2 video ouput configuration is wicked. My video 1 out is 1080p24, and the video 2 is 1080p60, so the PS3 is using video 1 and my XA2 and Sat decoder are using video 2. Great idea!



I just want to confirm that your Video 1's Setup / Video Output setting is 1080p/24 output, and you are using this with Frame Lock = OFF right?


If so that means we now have reports that *BOTH* ways of getting 1080p/24 input to produce 1080p/24 output are working correctly with V1.12q:


1) 1080p/24 input "passed through" via Frame Lock = Auto and 1080p/60 resolution selected in Setup / Video Output, and


2) 1080p/24 input "rate adjusted" via Frame Lock = Off and 1080p/24 resolution selected in Setup / Video Output.


Correct?


---------------------------------------------------


However, neither 1080i/60 nor 480i/60 input to 1080p/24 output (Frame Lock = OFF) are working correctly yet, even when the input content is film-based.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Peter. Both the P2 and P5 use completely passive cooling (no fans). Why wouldn't they be completely dead silent? Transformer hum? Something else? (Just wondering why you mention that they're extremely quiet since I don't see how they could be anything other than completely quiet unless there's something I overlooked)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kal



You're right......I have had very poor experience in the past with high current amps and audible hum. Unless you look at the lights (and you have a properly wired and configured system) you can't tell that its on with your ear cemented to your speaker cone!


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What does this say about Pioneer audio products......



Competitive Analysis


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What does this say about Pioneer audio products......



Not anything necessarily. Could be that Anthem is selling to Pioneer at cost for testing.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What does this say about Pioneer audio products......



The Elite line is very respectable....There is no disrespect in his position. Pioneer does not have a competitive product to the D2. The D2 to the Pio Blu ray DVD is a perfect pairing that is unique. Soooo he is not jumping ship as some are suggesting, he is simply lifting the performance bar for the DVD player. As Hank has suggested and in fact promoted..........we welcome him to a very special group. He will be a great asset.


Peter


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IcemanDallas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks nine ball, this is what I was looking for. My receiver puts out 140 wpc but I feel something is missing at lower volumes, mainly in the midrange area. I was hoping a higher current amp might bring the mids forward and you indicate that it might. Bass is already tight and deep since I have the subamp. I can't afford a D2 at this point and I like the connectivity options, especially HDMI, that the receiver provides so I'll have to leave it in placefor now. It will be a blind buy but I'll probably pull the trigger and hope for the best.



IcemanDallas,

If you do follow through with the P2 we would very much appreciate your feedback as I suspect that there are a significant number of lurkers in the same situation and your experience would be the most honest assist in answering this very question for other enthusiasts.


Peter


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Competitive Analysis




Or reverse engineer it


----------



## IcemanDallas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> IcemanDallas,
> 
> If you do follow through with the P2 we would very much appreciate your feedback as I suspect that there are a significant number of lurkers in the same situation and your experience would be the most honest assist in answering this very question for other enthusiasts.
> 
> 
> Peter



Will do!


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I bought a Sony VPL-VW50 projector. I am asking the guru's here. I would like to run hdmi to both my sony tv and the projector are there any hdmi switches that work one in and two out? Additionally I need to run a 50' hdmi cable to the projector, I was thinking monoprice will this work?


Thanks


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought a Sony VPL-VW50 projector. I am asking the guru's here. I would like to run hdmi to both my sony tv and the projector are there any hdmi switches that work one in and two out? Additionally I need to run a 50' hdmi cable to the projector, I was thinking monoprice will this work?
> 
> 
> Thanks



As long as you don't want them both active simultaneously.


What you're looking for is called an HDMI *cross* switcher.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought a Sony VPL-VW50 projector. I am asking the guru's here. I would like to run hdmi to both my sony tv and the projector are there any hdmi switches that work one in and two out? Additionally I need to run a 50' hdmi cable to the projector, I was thinking monoprice will this work?
> 
> 
> Thanks



50 feet is a bit long if you're pushing 1080p. You might make it work, but the cable has to be just right. You might need to look for an HDMI extender (I think that's what they are called) to basically buffer up the signal.


----------



## sfield




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought a Sony VPL-VW50 projector. I am asking the guru's here. I would like to run hdmi to both my sony tv and the projector are there any hdmi switches that work one in and two out? Additionally I need to run a 50' hdmi cable to the projector, I was thinking monoprice will this work?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I use the following HDMI 1->2 distribution amp. It can feed both the Pearl and a 1080p LCD at the same time (both displays active).

http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=2514 


I have also sucessfully used the DTronics DD-D12 DVI 1->2 distribution amp.


I have both a 35' monoprice HDMI cable, and a Gefen DVI (cat-5e) extender wired over to the projector. I have had NO issues with the monoprice cable, including 1080p60 as well as 1080p24 (which are the normal resolutions I use). I think the cable was about $50. The Gefen DVI extender was about $300, but I rarely use this now. It was mostly put in place "just in case".


I also use the monoprice 6-9" HDMI "saver" cables, on every input and the output of the D2, given the reports of poor quality HDMI jacks.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did you follow the firmware instructions closely? All my parameters and user settings were there after upgrading to 1.12q. Not a single setting missing. You have to save in 3 places: user settings in the D2, then with the software utility, and then from LVSE. And then reload everything in that order exactly. There is a long list of steps, but you have to do them exactly like Anthem are telling us to do them. Don't skip a step!



Yes, I followed them to the letter including shut off of equipment, extra power resets, etc. I'm not disappointed to much if one or two specific parameters doesn't get reloaded , because once caught, it stays corrected. I am concerned that the power up sequence is more sensitive, and that that is not an upgrade sequence issue & I hope it is corrected in the production.


I DO agree, FOLLOWING instructions here is critical, and will be as critical for the "only production release" crowd too


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I DO agree, FOLLOWING instructions here is critical, and will be as critical for the "only production release" crowd too



You talkin' to me?!?!


----------



## agrsiv95

Thank you FilmMixer.


Jeremy


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought a Sony VPL-VW50 projector. I am asking the guru's here. I would like to run hdmi to both my sony tv and the projector are there any hdmi switches that work one in and two out? Additionally I need to run a 50' hdmi cable to the projector, I was thinking monoprice will this work?
> 
> 
> Thanks





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 50 feet is a bit long if you're pushing 1080p. You might make it work, but the cable has to be just right. You might need to look for an HDMI extender (I think that's what they are called) to basically buffer up the signal.



I agree with Gordon. 50 ft. is too long for 1080p. If there is a way

to get the length down to 30 ft. - I would do that and even then do

not spare the money on the quality of that cable. The rest of the

2-3 ft. cables are not so important - but 1080p at 30 ft. is as far

as you should try to push it.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree with Gordon. 50 ft. is too long for 1080p. If there is a way
> 
> to get the length down to 30 ft. - I would do that and even then do
> 
> not spare the money on the quality of that cable. The rest of the
> 
> 2-3 ft. cables are not so important - but 1080p at 30 ft. is as far
> 
> as you should try to push it.



Just to clarify, 50 ft does fine for me with the 22 AWG Monoprice cable (1080p60). Never a problem at all.


After a splitter could be another story though....


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *IcemanDallas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm considering an amp upgrade and I wanted some input on the Anthem products in a system that is primarily for music. I did a search and most of the comments in this thread seem to be HT oriented. I have a pair of Gallo 3.1's driven by a Pioneer 84TXS and the Gallo subamp. I will continue in the short term to use the Pioneer as a preamp and I have a chance to pick up a P2. Any thoughts or comments on this combination? Thanks!




I have used a P5 for several years and have been very pleased with the audio quality for both HT and music. It seems to have endless power and is very neutral. It is dead quiet if you put your ear to the speakers or next to it. I did move mine to a separate room as it puts out 340 watts (over 1000 BTU) of heat and can warm a room a bit.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I use the following HDMI 1->2 distribution amp. It can feed both the Pearl and a 1080p LCD at the same time (both displays active).
> 
> http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=2514



Wow - I stand corrected - I thought HDCP would somehow get in the way of duplicating an HDMI signal.


----------



## yourlilbro

YEHOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!


My D2 has arrived!


I waited 'just' 2 weeks. Will be playing with it tomorrow.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> YEHOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> My D2 has arrived!
> 
> 
> I waited 'just' 2 weeks. Will be playing with it tomorrow.



Welcome to the CLUB - Enjoy our Mascot


----------



## yourlilbro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Welcome to the CLUB - Enjoy our Mascot



I most definitely will!


The weird thing is, some people in your country have waited so long, around 3-5 weeks, some worst. I'm in Malaysia, and I waited for 2 weeks! I wonder why? Shouldn't America, UK and Europe have a higher Priority?


I should shut up, I've got mine!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I most definitely will!
> 
> 
> The weird thing is, some people in your country have waited so long, around 3-5 weeks, some worst. I'm in Malaysia, and I waited for 2 weeks! I wonder why? Shouldn't America, UK and Europe have a higher Priority?
> 
> 
> I should shut up, I've got mine!



Wow Malaysia?


----------



## yourlilbro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow Malaysia?



uhuh!


Yes, that's exactly where you think it is! Between Thailand and Singapore,










But, yea, Malaysia guys woohoo! I never thought I could order it, but, my local shop's owner knows a third party who could bring it in from singapore, so yeah we order it from paradigm or so in singapore 2 weeks ago, and today it arrived, arrives in KL tomorrow morning.


WOOHOO!!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree with Gordon. 50 ft. is too long for 1080p. If there is a way
> 
> to get the length down to 30 ft. - I would do that and even then do
> 
> not spare the money on the quality of that cable. The rest of the
> 
> 2-3 ft. cables are not so important - but 1080p at 30 ft. is as far
> 
> as you should try to push it.




For such a lenght you need really good cable such as the Ultralink Pro Platinum or/and with HDMI amplifier.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> YEHOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> My D2 has arrived!
> 
> 
> I waited 'just' 2 weeks. Will be playing with it tomorrow.



Lucky you!


----------



## yourlilbro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lucky you!



haha thanks!


I'm the happiest man today










Guys, How much better does SD look like with the D2?


I'm going with the DV-79AVi, will put it on 480i and let D2 scale it. Will it look good?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> haha thanks!
> 
> 
> I'm the happiest man today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guys, How much better does SD look like with the D2?
> 
> 
> I'm going with the DV-79AVi, will put it on 480i and let D2 scale it. Will it look good?



I don't know this answer - Bob P. Does.


I believe there is some minor SW bug that has been

fixed in test software and a final new release will be

out Shortly.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> haha thanks!
> 
> 
> I'm the happiest man today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guys, How much better does SD look like with the D2?
> 
> 
> I'm going with the DV-79AVi, will put it on 480i and let D2 scale it. Will it look good?



HDMI 480i from the 79avi will look outstanding.


It pays to do a careful video setup and calibration. When done right, and when playing a well made standard DVD you may very well wonder what all the fuss is about HD-DVD and Blu-Ray.


If you haven't done video setup and calibration before, don't jump to conclusions after your first try. It takes some practice to understand what is going on and to get things right. You will certainly need a calibration DVD such as Avia or Digital Video Essentials (DVE). If you want to treat yourself, the Avia Pro calibration disc set is the best standard DVD set currently available.


As I recall there were a few unusual settings needed in the 79avi to get the best out of it for HDMI 480i, but that may not be the case with current 79avi firmware. I use a 59avi myself. Someone with a 79avi may be able to point you to the best post in the 79avi thread in the standard DVD forum for details.


As for D2 software, the original V1.11 stuff that will likely be factory installed in your D2 will work just fine with the 79avi. You don't need any of the newer software for great results. So you can wait to install new software until the next major release comes out (Real Soon Now).

--Bob


----------



## Trigger44

I bought a D2 and matching A5 about one month ago. I am amazed at what SD

movies and concerts look like after making a trip though the D2. The format war will rage for some time, why mess with HD DVD when you really don't need it at all. My DVD machine is a high end Denon 3930ci which can do its own processing.


Even 60 year old films properly made into DVD format look fantastic. If I would get into any HD DVD, I would probably have to buy both BluRay and the Toshiba

formats. Heck I've got plenty of HDMI inputs. With both types I would stand a good chance of have at least one winner.


I run my 1080P at 60 HZ into a Pioneer HD1 50". Everything runs perfect. Who

needs all the problems with 24 HZ.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trigger44* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought a D2 and matching A5 about one month ago. I am amazed at what SD
> 
> movies and concerts look like after making a trip though the D2. The format war will rage for some time, why mess with HD DVD when you really don't need it at all. My DVD machine is a high end Denon 3930ci which can do its own processing.
> 
> 
> Even 60 year old films properly made into DVD format look fantastic. If I would get into any HD DVD, I would probably have to buy both BluRay and the Toshiba
> 
> formats. Heck I've got plenty of HDMI inputs. With both types I would stand a good chance of have at least one winner.
> 
> 
> I run my 1080P at 60 HZ into a Pioneer HD1 50". Everything runs perfect. Who
> 
> needs all the problems with 24 HZ.



Enjoy the D2 Mascot


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought a Sony VPL-VW50 projector. I am asking the guru's here. I would like to run hdmi to both my sony tv and the projector are there any hdmi switches that work one in and two out? Additionally I need to run a 50' hdmi cable to the projector, I was thinking monoprice will this work?
> 
> 
> Thanks




When I first installed this equipment it seemed difficult to find a supplier who could supply a long HDMI cable and "guarantee" a 1080p/60 picture and I was not interested in buying several and rerunning them to try. I went with fiberoptic which cost more than a monoproce cable and have been extremely satisfied, no problems whats so ever. Yes it cost more but it works. My total length including drops and wall plates has to be pushing 75-80'.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When I first installed this equipment it seemed difficult to find a supplier who could supply a long HDMI cable and "guarantee" a 1080p/60 picture and I was not insterested in buying several and rerunning them to try. I went with fiberoptic which cost more than a monoproce cable and have been extremely satisfied, no problems whats so ever. Yes it cost more but it works. My total length including drops and wall plates has to be pushing 75-80'.



That is GOOD to KNOW - as an OPTION - But you need

to supply details - so others might find who you purchased

from?


----------



## uberanalyst

Just picked up a brand new D2 yesterday from my local dealer, after only about a 2 week wait from ordering. (I had been led to believe it would take much longer, so this was a pleasant surprise). Unfortunately, my new dedicated home theater is still under construction with about another month to go, so it may be a few weeks before I can really exercise the D2.


By way of background, I've been a very satisfied Lexicon MC-12 user for many years, having upgraded from V2 to V5 of their software, with the EQ feature and room calibration mics. (I still have the MC-12 system running in my family room with a separate B&W Nautilus 800-series 7.1 surround speaker setup.)


But as much as I love the Lexicon's flexibilty and menu system, I couldn't justify getting an MC-12HD for the new dedicated theater. Not only is the Lexicon price 2X that of the D2, but the lack of 1080p support makes it unacceptable. Since I'll be installing the D2 in a dedicated equipment room next to my new home theater and won't be able to see the front panel, I also need the D2's on-screen status/menu display that works for all inputs and resolutions. And the scaler of the D2 should be perfect to tame the oversaturated colors of my new JVC RS-1 projector.


Finally, I wanted to let everyone on this thread know that the info here greatly influenced my decision to buy a D2. Thanks for posting.


- Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It would appear the D2 shipping dam has burst! I wonder if that means AVM-50 backorders are also being filled.


If anyone receives a new D2 or AVM-50 with software more recent than V1.11 factory installed, please report here.


-------------------------------------------------------------


If the new software (v1.12 or later) really does turn out to have resolved the HDMI robustness issues, I wouldn't be at all surprised to see the AVM20/30 program to upgrade to an AVM-50 finally start up. I suspect that may have been what they were waiting on -- just in case video board hardware changes had to be made.

--Bob


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is GOOD to KNOW - as an OPTION - But you need
> 
> to supply details - so others might find who you purchased
> 
> from?



Your right drhankz I should have included that info. The cable I bought was a Gefen - HDMI Extreme Fiber Optic Cable - length was 66', came with 2-1' copper HDMI cables for making bends at wall plate connections. In addition there is a 10' HDMI cable from fibre to my HT rack and a 6' cable to the display from the wall plate.


When I looked at buying a conventional cable and then adding a booster(adding 2 more connectors to the chain), something else needing power and possible future failure point, the fiber appeared to make more sense long term considering this is the backbone of the system.


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI 480i from the 79avi will look outstanding.
> 
> 
> It pays to do a careful video setup and calibration. When done right, and when playing a well made standard DVD you may very well wonder what all the fuss is about HD-DVD and Blu-Ray.
> 
> 
> If you haven't done video setup and calibration before, don't jump to conclusions after your first try. It takes some practice to understand what is going on and to get things right. You will certainly need a calibration DVD such as Avia or Digital Video Essentials (DVE). If you want to treat yourself, the Avia Pro calibration disc set is the best standard DVD set currently available.
> 
> 
> As I recall there were a few unusual settings needed in the 79avi to get the best out of it for HDMI 480i, but that may not be the case with current 79avi firmware. I use a 59avi myself. Someone with a 79avi may be able to point you to the best post in the 79avi thread in the standard DVD forum for details.
> 
> 
> As for D2 software, the original V1.11 stuff that will likely be factory installed in your D2 will work just fine with the 79avi. You don't need any of the newer software for great results. So you can wait to install new software until the next major release comes out (Real Soon Now).
> 
> --Bob



I was glad to see you put that in print here Bob others have made that comment and gotten trashed for even considering this, I have thought the same thing since installing my AVM 50, Denon DVD and new display I was amazed at the picture quality, and so has anyone who has visited. From what I have seen so far the DVD war can rage on before I feel the need to commit.


Having said that I am sure on big 100"+ screens the story may be different.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was glad to see you put that in print here Bob others have made that comment and gotten trashed for even considering this, I have thought the same thing since installing my AVM 50, Denon DVD and new display I was amazed at the picture quality, and so has anyone who has visited. From what I have seen so far the DVD war can rage on before I feel the need to commit.
> 
> 
> Having said that I am sure on big 100"+ screens the story may be different.



Sure. Not to to be too blithe about this of course.


There really is better stuff to be had from HD-DVD and Blu-Ray -- even for flat panel viewers. And of course there's the improved audio from their lossless tracks.


You can't make HD imagery out of SD content. You can't invent information that isn't there to begin with.


But most folks have lived with such lousy SD for so long that they don't realize how good SD can look when done right -- which basically means eliminating all the things in the signal path that can do damage. The trick with SD is to avoid damaging it, because the eye will pick up on just about any damage. And once the signal is damaged, even the best processors can't really undo that.


A good SD DVD, player playing a reference quality DVD transfer, going HDMI 480i into the D2 -- properly set up and calibrated -- is about as clean an SD setup as you can get. And the improvement compared to "everyday" SD from a local TV station playing re-runs that have suffered multiple tape-copy damage, or compared to over-compressed SD from, say DirecTV, is amazing. So good, you'd wonder how it could possibly get better.


But a good HD-DVD or Blu-Ray disc played on a good player -- also properly set up -- really *IS* better. Of course in-store HD-DVD and Blu-Ray setups are usually godawful so you can't see it. So be happy now, but be prepared to be amazed AGAIN when you finally take the plunge.


I'm not an early adopter, I plan to take the plunge AFTER this upcoming Christmas season if it looks like the rate of change in players is finally starting to slow down. And until then, like you, I'm just tickled pink with the quality I can get via SD DVD.


------------------------------------------------------------------


By the way, be careful when comparing HDTV movie broadcasts to your SD DVD experience as a way to judge the quality of your SD DVD. Too many movies broadcast on HDTV channels are actually just upscaled versions of SD DVD transfers. I.e., they are not real HD transfers to start with.

--Bob


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sure. Not to to be too blithe about this of course.
> 
> 
> There really is better stuff to be had from HD-DVD and Blu-Ray -- even for flat panel viewers. And of course there's the improved audio from their lossless tracks.
> 
> 
> You can't make HD imagery out of SD content. You can't invent information that isn't there to begin with.
> 
> 
> But most folks have lived with such lousy SD for so long that they don't realize how good SD can look when done right -- which basically means eliminating all the things in the signal path that can do damage. The trick with SD is to avoid damaging it, because the eye will pick up on just about any damage. And once the signal is damaged, even the best processors can't really undo that.
> 
> 
> A good SD DVD, player playing a reference quality DVD transfer, going HDMI 480i into the D2 -- properly set up and calibrated -- is about as clean an SD setup as you can get. And the improvement compared to "everyday" SD from a local TV station playing re-runs that have suffered multiple tape-copy damage, or compared to over-compressed SD from, say DirecTV, is amazing. So good, you'd wonder how it could possibly get better.
> 
> 
> But a good HD-DVD or Blu-Ray disc played on a good player -- also properly set up -- really *IS* better. Of course in-store HD-DVD and Blu-Ray setups are usually godawful so you can't see it. So be happy now, but be prepared to be amazed AGAIN when you finally take the plunge.
> 
> 
> I'm not an early adopter, I plan to take the plunge AFTER this upcoming Christmas season if it looks like the rate of change in players is finally starting to slow down. And until then, like you, I'm just tickled pink with the quality I can get via SD DVD.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> By the way, be careful when comparing HDTV movie broadcasts to your SD DVD experience as a way to judge the quality of your SD DVD. Too many movies broadcast on HDTV channels are actually just upscaled versions of SD DVD transfers. I.e., they are not real HD transfers to start with.
> 
> --Bob



I agree absolutely with everything you said. I guess my point is that this gear has improved the life of the regular dvd to the point I don't feel the need to rush(maybe crawl) out and get a blu-ray or HD_DVD player yet.


And I certainly hope that when I do, I will be amazed at the improved PQ as we all should be.


Actually anytime that I have been in a BB or Futureshop and wandered into the AV section, the PQ of the high def stuff on display is awful and I have left unimpressed wondering how they sell this stuff. Are consumers expectations that low or am I just spoilled with the Anthem Advantage.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just picked up a brand new D2 yesterday from my local dealer, after only about a 2 week wait from ordering. (I had been led to believe it would take much longer, so this was a pleasant surprise).



Welcome aboard! Where is Drhankz with that jumping mascot when you need him!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, my new dedicated home theater is still under construction with about another month to go, so it may be a few weeks before I can really exercise the D2.



Wow! That's a real leap of faith you're doing here. But you won't be disappointed...











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But as much as I love the Lexicon's flexibilty and menu system, I couldn't justify getting an MC-12HD for the new dedicated theater. Not only is the Lexicon price 2X that of the D2, but the lack of 1080p support makes it unacceptable.



Alot of Lexicon users are now realizing that and are jumping ship just like you... You are not alone doing that move from the MC-12 to the Anthem D2... I have tried the Lexicon MC-12HD + DVDO VP50 and it's NOT worth 3x the price of the D2. Picture quality is a wash, and audio quality is clearly a preference... After comparing both side-by-side, some prefer the Lex, others the D2 for pure SQ...


No 1080p support is a MAJOR deal-breaker IMHO with the Lex. And since the Gennum scaler of the D2 is easily on the same level with the DVDO VP50 and Crystalio II for picture quality, and now, with 1.12, also on par for the scaling "features" (1080p24, gamma curve generator, 2 video output config for each input x 4 multiple per-input memory banks = lots of options!, etc) and the upcoming room-eq software (and for FREE, unlike the Lex...), the combo Lex MC-12HD + VP50, for 3X the price, is definetely not worth it...


You made the good decision. Ask all the Lex owners in here who made the switch to the D2.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since I'll be installing the D2 in a dedicated equipment room next to my new home theater and won't be able to see the front panel, I also need the D2's on-screen status/menu display that works for all inputs and resolutions.



People don't realized and often forget about that feature of the Anthem D2 / AVM50, and also forget that the Anthem pre/pros are still the ONLY pre/pros on the market doing that *in HD* (on-screen display). And it's SO useful when you have a closeds rack and your equipment is in the back of the room without direct eye line to the pre/pro display. With the D2, you can do everything directly on the main screen, and even in HD!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And the scaler of the D2 should be perfect to tame the oversaturated colors of my new JVC RS-1 projector.



Working great for me. And 1080p24 is also working great now with the JVC. The new gamma curve generator coming with the firmware 1.12 will be REALLY useful with the JVC since there is no gamma curve at 2.5 coming with it.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just picked up a brand new D2 yesterday from my local dealer, after only about a 2 week wait from ordering. (I had been led to believe it would take much longer, so this was a pleasant surprise). Unfortunately, my new dedicated home theater is still under construction with about another month to go, so it may be a few weeks before I can really exercise the D2.
> 
> 
> By way of background, I've been a very satisfied Lexicon MC-12 user for many years, having upgraded from V2 to V5 of their software, with the EQ feature and room calibration mics. (I still have the MC-12 system running in my family room with a separate B&W Nautilus 800-series 7.1 surround speaker setup.)
> 
> 
> But as much as I love the Lexicon's flexibilty and menu system, I couldn't justify getting an MC-12HD for the new dedicated theater. Not only is the Lexicon price 2X that of the D2, but the lack of 1080p support makes it unacceptable. Since I'll be installing the D2 in a dedicated equipment room next to my new home theater and won't be able to see the front panel, I also need the D2's on-screen status/menu display that works for all inputs and resolutions. And the scaler of the D2 should be perfect to tame the oversaturated colors of my new JVC RS-1 projector.
> 
> 
> Finally, I wanted to let everyone on this thread know that the info here greatly influenced my decision to buy a D2. Thanks for posting.
> 
> 
> - Dave



I'm on VACATION at the Lake and Laconia Bike Week!

*I missed this one LEVESQUE*


Happy New D2 Owner Day from the D2 Mascot


----------



## BillW

I'm getting 1.12r sent to me later today. In my emails I asked twice on a date for the final release-with no answer. Which I guess is smart when it comes to software releases.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm getting 1.12r sent to me later today. In my emails I asked twice on a date for the final release-with no answer. Which I guess is smart when it comes to software releases.



There are only 8 more letters left....


----------



## Ian_Currie

Wow, just found out the D2 I had ordered LAST WEEK is in today - woohoo!


I'm replacing a decked-out Theta Casablanca 3 with this puppy (and my choice of the D2 was very much influenced by this thread) - so it will be an interesting comparison.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If things keep improving at this rate, you guys are going to start receiving your new D2s *BEFORE* you order them....


Fortunately, we just got in an extra large shipment of these:


































































--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are only 8 more letters left....



What about aa,bb,ccc, etc.. This could go for ever.










Seriously seeing the stability of 1.12q we should not be really far from an official release.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow, just found out the D2 I had ordered LAST WEEK is in today - woohoo!
> 
> 
> I'm replacing a decked-out Theta Casablanca 3 with this puppy (and my choice of the D2 was very much influenced by this thread) - so it will be an interesting comparison.



This is a good day for the D2, we replaced another MC12 and a Casablanca: eek:


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...and the upcoming room-eq software (and for FREE, unlike the Lex...)...



I'm looking forward to the upcoming room-eq software. But other pre-pros (like my older Lex MC-12) use microphones for measurement, and I haven't found any mic inputs on the back of my brand-new D2.


I noticed the expansion area on the back panel with 3 small square holes. If this area is used for the mic inputs, won't Anthem have to charge for a hardware upgrade? Or do you envision some type of room-eq software without a measurement function?


- Dave


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm looking forward to the upcoming room-eq software. But other pre-pros (like my older Lex MC-12) use microphones for measurement, and I haven't found any mic inputs on the back of my brand-new D2.
> 
> 
> I noticed the expansion area on the back panel with 3 small square holes. If this area is used for the mic inputs, won't Anthem have to charge for a hardware upgrade? Or do you envision some type of room-eq software without a measurement function?
> 
> 
> - Dave



Room Eq software will have a PC based component that will interface with the D2 through the RS232 I guess. You will also have to buy a special microphone.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm looking forward to the upcoming room-eq software. But other pre-pros (like my older Lex MC-12) use microphones for measurement, and I haven't found any mic inputs on the back of my brand-new D2.
> 
> 
> I noticed the expansion area on the back panel with 3 small square holes. If this area is used for the mic inputs, won't Anthem have to charge for a hardware upgrade? Or do you envision some type of room-eq software without a measurement function?
> 
> 
> - Dave



This has been a real puzzle for us. Anthem aint saying.


My guess is a smallish mic amp that ends up temporarily plugged into one of the balanced inputs on the D2.


There's also been a rumor that a sound card is needed in the Windows PC -- and so maybe the mic plugs in there.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm on VACATION at the Lake and Laconia Bike Week!




You don't know your luck when I go in Vacation I am not allowed to bring with me anything that could provide any type of access to Internet.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is a good day for the D2, we replaced another MC12 and a Casablanca: eek:


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This has been a real puzzle for us. Anthem aint saying.
> 
> 
> My guess is a smallish mic amp that ends up temporarily plugged into one of the balanced inputs on the D2.
> 
> 
> There's also been a rumor that a sound card is needed in the Windows PC -- and so maybe the mic plugs in there.
> 
> --Bob



Could also be a USB based mic.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Room Eq software will have PC based component that will interface with the D2 through the RS232 I guess. You will also have to buy a special microphone.



Which of course means that the room EQ isn't actually "free". And what do we expect this "special microphone" to be priced at?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Which of course means that the room EQ isn't actually "free". And what do we expect this "special microphone" to be priced at?



The latest rumor is that the software upgrade in the D2, and the associated Windows PC software, are both free.


The calibrated mic will cost around $300.


The idea is that although some owners will, of course, buy their own mic, others will let the dealer buy the mic and deal with the Windows software. The dealer then might charge a fee to come out with the mic and Windows PC, do the calibration, load the results into the D2, and then leave -- taking the Mic and Windows setup with him. And some dealers might do this for free (to encourage further business).


Once the calibration results are loaded into the D2, the mic and PC are not needed during normal listening.


--------------------------------------------------------


Another rumor is that, just as with video setup today, some features will be accessible using only the D2 (and perhaps the mic). But the full range of features will require the Windows PC to do the analysis and load the results into the D2.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Which of course means that the room EQ isn't actually "free". And what do we expect this "special microphone" to be priced at?



It will depend on the quality of the mic, if they are each manually calibated, what type connection used, the need for special amp etc...


This is TBD.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Thanks guys.


Isn't speculation fun?


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Which of course means that the room EQ isn't actually "free". And what do we expect this "special microphone" to be priced at?




Know what Rob? If the product is as good as I think it will be, given the history of the engineers working on it, I will be happy to pay a great deal of money for it as there will be no equal on the open market..........These guys are from the NRC world which is the equivalent of Bell Labs.


Peter


ps. please don't tell anyone I said that.........if it ever got back to Anthem they just might raise the price!!!!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Know what Rob? If the product is as good as I think it will be, given the history of the engineers working on it, I will be happy to pay a great deal of money for it as there will be no equal on the open market..........These guys are from the NRC world which is the equivalent of Bell Labs.
> 
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> ps. please don't tell anyone I said that.........if it ever got back to Anthem they just might raise the price!!!!



Well, since the price hasn't been set yet, I don't think they can "raise" it!










Seriously though, I am certainly willing to pay a reasonable sum for this feature, but not without limit. For example, I thought I recalled a rumor that indicated that the microphone would cost nearly $1000.00, which is too rich for my blood.










$300.00 is certainly more like it!


----------



## dseliger

its a good day indeed, my D2 is here as well...going to pick it up in 2hrs


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, since the price hasn't been set yet, I don't think they can "raise" it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously though, I am certainly willing to pay a reasonable sum for this feature, but not without limit. For example, I thought I recalled a rumor that indicated that the microphone would cost nearly $1000.00, which is too rich for my blood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $300.00 is certainly more like it!



The biggest issue you are facing is that Anthem probably establishes is price structure in Canadian $. If currency rate conversion trend carry-on the way it is this mic. will be bloody expensive in US$.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> its a good day indeed, my D2 is here as well...going to pick it up in 2hrs




What was you previous Pre/Pro?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What was you previous Pre/Pro?



Probably another Lexicon user!


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What was you previous Pre/Pro?



I dont know if i dare say...hehe I did make a significant jump, im moving from a Pioneer Elite VSX-49txi.


The D2 will paired with a B&K Reference 200.7 S2 amp...


Its going to be a fun night!


----------



## BillW

[Its going to be a fun night![/quote]


Fun and long. If you haven't already make yourself read as much of the manual before you start as you can stand. It will help-believe me.


----------



## dseliger

Will do, thanks for the tip! I've been doing a lot of reading in this thread and on their site over my 3.5 week wait










A quick thank you to everyone posting on this thread, the information has been great!!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You don't know your luck when I go in Vacation I am not allowed to bring with me anything that could provide any type of access to Internet.



This is our 2nd home - we are here every

weekend -- SEE Live Web Cam


----------



## dseliger

Very nice, the weather and view both look awesome!


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow, just found out the D2 I had ordered LAST WEEK is in today - woohoo!
> 
> 
> I'm replacing a decked-out Theta Casablanca 3 with this puppy (and my choice of the D2 was very much influenced by this thread) - so it will be an interesting comparison.



Ian,

Congratulations!!










Another member of the Greater Boston area D2 owners. So far I have communicated with Brian, Tim & Blaine off & on about the D2 and all of the other goodies connected to it. Welcome to the club.


----------



## drdisc

Dear All:


I discovered this forum about 6 months ago and actually took the time to go back to the initial post and read all the way up to present day. I have been lurking here ever since reading the posts from you very colourful lot. VERY interesting, educational and ESSENTIAL reading for a newbie like me!


And when I say newbie, I mean a HT virgin!







Not only is this my very first post in this forum, I am working on my VERY first HT set-up ever. I had the opportunity to design a loft living space for myself and decided to splurge and get some decent AV equipment so I decided to get a D1 last year, then discovered this forum and then quickly decided to upgrade to a D2!


My living space took almost a year to design and build and the last piece of the puzzle was my HT gear which I have managed to install myself. Never having done it before it was QUITE a learning curve -- exponential in fact!







And I am still learning more (mostly from this forum) everyday.


This past Monday I picked the final piece of the puzzle from Anthem HQ -- my D1-HD upgrade! It only took about 2 weeks for the upgrade to be completed which was great service, although it took about 3 months to get an RA# before I could even drop the unit off to do the upgrade! (Note for all of you awaiting D2 orders: There was a pile of D2s in the shipping area waiting to go, so keep your fingers crossed as yours could be in transit right now!)


I hooked up the D1-HD into the system and it is working like a charm! It has 1.1 firmware (the Anthem folks will install any version that you want if you are doing a hardware upgrade) and I am going to wait the new 'official' firmware is released before really tweaking my system.


I just wanted to post and thank everyone for your help, information and willingness to share your knowledge, especially Bob Pariseau (seriously Bob, if you charged for lessons, i would sign up!), Levesque, nine ball, Rob Tomlin, drhankz, manwithaplan, tolstoi, gdc, rudolpht, cpcat, Randall Morton and probably a few dozen other contributors that I have forgotten to mention!


Thanks again for ALL of your help!










Mark


P.S. I am not a REAL doctor like some of the "docs" around here -- I run a music store, hence the username "drdisc".


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Which of course means that the room EQ isn't actually "free". And what do we expect this "special microphone" to be priced at?



It is free, since you don't need to buy the mic!







Your dealer can buy it, then he can charge what he wants to you to perform the calibration. He can do it for free if he wants (if you're a good customer). And if a dealer buy one, he can then pass it up to all the people that bought a D2 at his place.










If a dealer sold 5 or 6 D2/AVM50 (or more







) then he can divide 300$ / 6 = 50$ each. And high-end dealers will probably all do it for free, if you just want to use the mic by yourself and do the software calibration alone. But if you ask him to install everything and perform the room-eq settings and calibration with the mic he bought, then he can charge what he wants.


Another thing. Gostan just said there is alot of D2 owners in the Boston area. Then they can just buy 1 mic for all of them and divide the 300$ between them.







And since the software is FREE, people in the same region should just buy 1 and share it, or ask a dealer to buy it and then share it with them.


I know at least 7 or 8 D2/AVM50 owners in Quebec personnally. So we will probably do a group buy and divide the 300$ between us, so around 40$ each... Lexicon are charging a couple of grands (1000$, 2000$, more ?) for the software and the mic... So 40$ is ok for me...


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drdisc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Dear All:
> 
> 
> I discovered this forum about 6 months ago and actually took the time to go back to the initial post and read all the way up to present day. I have been lurking here ever since reading the posts from you very colourful lot. VERY interesting, educational and ESSENTIAL reading for a newbie like me!
> 
> 
> And when I say newbie, I mean a HT virgin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not only is this my very first post in this forum, I am working on my VERY first HT set-up ever. I had the opportunity to design a loft living space for myself and decided to splurge and get some decent AV equipment so I decided to get a D1 last year, then discovered this forum and then quickly decided to upgrade to a D2!
> 
> 
> My living space took almost a year to design and build and the last piece of the puzzle was my HT gear which I have managed to install myself. Never having done it before it was QUITE a learning curve -- exponential in fact!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I am still learning more (mostly from this forum) everyday.
> 
> 
> This past Monday I picked the final piece of the puzzle from Anthem HQ -- my D1-HD upgrade! It only took about 2 weeks for the upgrade to be completed which was great service, although it took about 3 months to get an RA# before I could even drop the unit off to do the upgrade! (Note for all of you awaiting D2 orders: There was a pile of D2s in the shipping area waiting to go, so keep your fingers crossed as yours could be in transit right now!)
> 
> 
> I hooked up the D1-HD into the system and it is working like a charm! It has 1.1 firmware (the Anthem folks will install any version that you want if you are doing a hardware upgrade) and I am going to wait the new 'official' firmware is released before really tweaking my system.
> 
> 
> I just wanted to post and thank everyone for your help, information and willingness to share your knowledge, especially Bob Pariseau (seriously Bob, if you charged for lessons, i would sign up!), Levesque, nine ball, Rob Tomlin, drhankz, manwithaplan, tolstoi, gdc, rudolpht, cpcat, Randall Morton and probably a few dozen other contributors that I have forgotten to mention!
> 
> 
> Thanks again for ALL of your help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> P.S. I am not a REAL doctor like some of the "docs" around here -- I run a music store, hence the username "drdisc".




A sincere welcome to the public forum............I share your sentiments completely. These clearly are a very special group of HT enthusiasts. By the way I finally did find out where Bob P lives!!!!!! A private investigator actually gave me pictures. The first one is of a yellow brick road. Note the girl in the sparkly red shoes in the second talking to the lion guy and the tin fellow........ I will respect Bob's privacy to blurr the door number...........


You are joining a special group and your new calling card will get you into any conversation worthy of note. I agree with your decision to wait for the production version 1.12 Final. I have a whole bunch of stuff including a new bulb for my ruby and I think a whole new fresh start for the D2.


I think, and I am looking to Bob, Hank and Alain to name but a few to voice their opinion on the following observation: We have been all over the map with basic configuration make do's from version 1.0 on up. Hank's remedy to stick with component rather than risk HDMI may or may not be continuing good advice with the next official release. I'm thinking I want to start over from scratch with the new release and avoid even the remote possibility of inheriting past patches or temp make do arrangements that even I may have forgotten about. If that makes any sense, how do I ensure that I start with a clean slate?


Anyone?


and Drdisk (musicologist), welcome Mark ........ Hank or Rob will be delivering your new mascot.....


----------



## yourlilbro

Hey, umm, I upgraded from a Sunfire Theater Grand II. How big of an upgrade in SQ is that?


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> haha thanks!
> 
> 
> I'm the happiest man today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guys, How much better does SD look like with the D2?
> 
> 
> I'm going with the DV-79AVi, will put it on 480i and let D2 scale it. Will it look good?





Yes,



The DV-79AVI is a very nice player. With a good DVD the picture quality is outstanding (for SD material). The only disappointment is the lack of mosquito noise reduction in the player. Although, on most material it is not a problem for me (55" screen viewed from 13').


Make sure you play with the HDMI detail settings in the picture adjustment menu to get the level of sharpness that you prefer. and calibrate the players black level with a good test disc like DVE, and you will love the picure. Hice build quality too. I hope you enjoy the new system.


Sean


----------



## yourlilbro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soapman72* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes,
> 
> 
> 
> The DV-79AVI is a very nice player. With a good DVD the picture quality is outstanding (for SD material). The only disappointment is the lack of mosquito noise reduction in the player. Although, on most material it is not a problem for me (55" screen viewed from 13').
> 
> 
> Make sure you play with the HDMI detail settings in the picture adjustment menu to get the level of sharpness that you prefer. and calibrate the players black level with a good test disc like DVE, and you will love the picure. Hice build quality too. I hope you enjoy the new system.
> 
> 
> Sean



OK thanks Sean. But, would the Anthem be able to clear up most of the Mosquito Noise? I'll see if I could borrow the DVE disc from the place I'm buying my stuff. I'll have to go there to pick up my HD1 and D2 anyways so i'll just take the DVE back home for awhile


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I dont know if i dare say...hehe I did make a significant jump, im moving from a Pioneer Elite VSX-49txi.
> 
> 
> The D2 will paired with a B&K Reference 200.7 S2 amp...
> 
> 
> Its going to be a fun night!



This is going to be a lot of fun. Enjoy!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is our 2nd home - we are here every
> 
> weekend -- SEE Live Web Cam



It is a bit dark at night I will look at it tomorro


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is free, since you don't need to buy the mic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your dealer can buy it, then he can charge what he wants to you to perform the calibration. He can do it for free if he wants (if you're a good customer). And if a dealer buy one, he can then pass it up to all the people that bought a D2 at his place.



I think your dealers must be much more generous than our dealers down here!


I can't even fathom a dealer/calibrator coming in and doing this for much less than the $300.00 that the mic (might) cost!


I think I have a much better chance of getting together with some fellow AVS enthusiasts in the area who are really into this stuff and figure it out together...even if they don't have a D2!


----------



## yourlilbro

I'm probably the only person in Malaysia with the D2










so, no Mic calibration for me, useless to buy, since i'll only be using it once. Maybe if I could poison my good friend, the director of the shop, to buy a D2 for the showroom's system. He could get the mic for him, and I could borrow.

meh tough luck.


We didn't buy it from him. He has a lot of contacts and eventually we got a 3rd party to get us the D2 from singapore. So yeah.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I thank all of you for the kind words.


DSELIGER there is no reason to be ashamed of the equipment you are LEAVING!


DRDISC we will expect you to keep us informed of the best music and movies coming through your store. And by the way, I'm pleased to see that Anthem has finally figured out not to hand out upgrade RMA #s until they are actually able to do the upgrade and return the unit in double-quick-time!


YOURLILBRO, there's nothing wrong with being a pioneer in your region. Just remember it's OK to say no when your neighbors start pleading with you to borrow your Anthem.


And NINE BALL, just ignore the man behind the curtain. We here at "Bob Pariseau" maintain several decoy operations for just such contingencies....

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK thanks Sean. But, would the Anthem be able to clear up most of the Mosquito Noise? I'll see if I could borrow the DVE disc from the place I'm buying my stuff. I'll have to go there to pick up my HD1 and D2 anyways so i'll just take the DVE back home for awhile



The Anthem's noise reduction is OK, but nothing spectacular. It is widely considered to be about half as good as the best available (....however you measure this....).


The thing to remember is that there is no free lunch in the noise reduction game. Once the imagery is damaged you can't really recover the information that's been lost. All you can do is to try to blend away the more obvious artifacts without over-softening the image.

--Bob


----------



## yourlilbro

Hehe, thanks Bob. I'll be sure to say 'NO'.


One more question, this is abit off topic, but if any amp expert who could please help, thanks:


I'd like to use The D2 with the Sunfire Cinema Grand 5-channel amp and a Krell KAV-400xi. The Sunfire is a no problem thing since it's an amp. But the Krell is an integrated. Can I just use it's amp section to power the two front speakers? Can it connect to the D2, and let the D2 control the volume??


Thanks so much.


----------



## uberanalyst

The rumored D2 room equalization sounds like it could be quite a bargain.


I seem to remember paying almost $3K (US) for the Lexicon upgrade board, software and 4-mic kit when I upgraded my MC-12 a few years back to add the room EQ. Hell, the 4-mic kit alone was $700. So 1/10th of that for a D2 mic and room correction software would be terrific.


And at approximately $300, it's definitely worth buying your own microphone, because you WILL need to run your room correction software more than once. Over the years I've moved speakers around, moved furniture, changed my subwoofer, and added a big rear-projection TV -- all of which required re-running the auto equalization routine on the Lexicon.


My new D2 is about to be installed into a dedicated home theater with in-wall speakers and subs, fixed projection screen and seating/risers, so I expect to have to retune the acoustics far less often. But even there, I may want to play with the acoustics (bass traps, wall treatments, etc.).


- Dave


----------



## rudolpht

The mic upgrade for me is $2300 (for an AVM-50 user. Come on D3, want to be first in line










Note 12r solved my start problems. THANKS NICK!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ....And at approximately $300, it's definitely worth buying your own microphone, because you WILL need to run your room correction software more than once. Over the years I've moved speakers around, moved furniture, changed my subwoofer, and added a big rear-projection TV -- all of which required re-running the auto equalization routine on the Lexicon.....



I don't honestly know what the final price of the Anthem Room EQ stuff will be, but I 2nd what UBERANALYST is saying. Odds are you will do many more things that OUGHT to result in you re-doing adjustments to audio than to video.


For example, simply opening a closet door, or closing drapes could have significant impact on the room response at certain audio frequencies.


Video calibration, on the other hand is affected by very little that doesn't alter the average ambient lighting during viewing.


It'll be interesting to see whether Anthem's Room EQ stuff helps the vast majority of folks who don't have audio treated rooms -- where the room acoustics vary dramatically between listening positions and according to shifts of stuff around the room. But whether or not that is true, the odds are that the average D2 owner will benefit from getting the mic and learning how to use the software. I just hope Anthem documents the Room EQ stuff adequately.


I can tell you from my experience with my Velodyne DD series subwoofer (which has its own Room EQ for bass stuff) that you can easily spend weeks tweaking such setups to advantage.

--bob


----------



## randman

I agree w/ Dave and Bob! It's worth getting the mic outright. I got my Radio Shack sound level meter over 10 years ago, thinking I would only need it once, but I've used it countless of times. Same story with my Velodyne SMS-1 EQ.


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I dont know if i dare say...hehe I did make a significant jump, im moving from a Pioneer Elite VSX-49txi.
> 
> 
> The D2 will paired with a B&K Reference 200.7 S2 amp...
> 
> 
> Its going to be a fun night!



I got you beat. I had a Harmon AV520 from about 7 years ago. I also looked into the B&K amp, but got a great deal on a PVA7. The AVM50/D2 takes days to weeks to set-up. I'm still messing with it occasionally. It is the only piece that can do everything I needed. Enjoy it.


----------



## drdisc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thank all of you for the kind words.
> 
> 
> DRDISC we will expect you to keep us informed of the best music and movies coming through your store. And by the way, I'm pleased to see that Anthem has finally figured out not to hand out upgrade RMA #s until they are actually able to do the upgrade and return the unit in double-quick-time!
> 
> 
> --Bob



Dear Bob:


Just to clarify about the D1-HD upgrade process: I was told in early March that an RMA# would be forthcoming in early-mid April, but actually did not get issued one until early June, so expect delays if you are going this route.


Also, since I live close to Anthem HQ, my total turnaround time for the actual upgrade was a very respectable two weeks. However, those of you who have to ship your units to Anthem should add a minimum of another week's worth of travel time.


All in all I was extremely satisfied with the level of service provided by Anthem. Although there was a delay getting the RMA#, Frank Pugliano at Anthem kept me updated constantly and responded to my emails in regards to same within 24 hours.


Lastly, for those of you into the SACD experience my current pick is the remastered hybrid SACD of the Pixies classic album 'Surfer Rosa' which was released at the end of May.


Mark


----------



## drdisc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A sincere welcome to the public forum............I share your sentiments completely. These clearly are a very special group of HT enthusiasts. By the way I finally did find out where Bob P lives!!!!!! A private investigator actually gave me pictures. The first one is of a yellow brick road. Note the girl in the sparkly red shoes in the second talking to the lion guy and the tin fellow........ I will respect Bob's privacy to blurr the door number...........
> 
> 
> You are joining a special group and your new calling card will get you into any conversation worthy of note. I agree with your decision to wait for the production version 1.12 Final. I have a whole bunch of stuff including a new bulb for my ruby and I think a whole new fresh start for the D2.
> 
> 
> I think, and I am looking to Bob, Hank and Alain to name but a few to voice their opinion on the following observation: We have been all over the map with basic configuration make do's from version 1.0 on up. Hank's remedy to stick with component rather than risk HDMI may or may not be continuing good advice with the next official release. I'm thinking I want to start over from scratch with the new release and avoid even the remote possibility of inheriting past patches or temp make do arrangements that even I may have forgotten about. If that makes any sense, how do I ensure that I start with a clean slate?
> 
> 
> Anyone?
> 
> 
> and Drdisk (musicologist), welcome Mark ........ Hank or Rob will be delivering your new mascot.....



Peter:


Thanks for the kind words and warm welcome!


I will be tinkering along with you (and everyone else in the forum) when the final, official version of 1.12 is released. (Frank P. at Anthem emailed this week and said that there is still no firm release date at this time.) And I did run both HDMI and component (as back up) just in case!


Mark


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lucky you!



Wow. I have been waiting five weeks for mine.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drdisc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Dear Bob:
> 
> 
> Just to clarify about the D1-HD upgrade process: I was told in early March that an RMA# would be forthcoming in early-mid April, but actually did not get issued one until early June, so expect delays if you are going this route.
> 
> 
> Also, since I live close to Anthem HQ, my total turnaround time for the actual upgrade was a very respectable two weeks. However, those of you who have to ship your units to Anthem should add a minimum of another week's worth of travel time.
> 
> 
> All in all I was extremely satisfied with the level of service provided by Anthem. Although there was a delay getting the RMA#, Frank Pugliano at Anthem kept me updated constantly and responded to my emails in regards to same within 24 hours.
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you into the SACD experience my current pick is the remastered hybrid SACD of the Pixies classic album 'Surfer Rosa' which was released at the end of May.
> 
> 
> Mark




Mark, we may be neighbours!!!! I'm in Oakville....is your store in Mississauga? Thanks for the SACD pick.


Peter


----------



## drdisc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mark, we may be neighbours!!!! I'm in Oakville....is your store in Mississauga? Thanks for the SACD pick.
> 
> 
> Peter



Dear Peter:


I am just down the road in Hamilton with Anthem HQ in between us!










Mark


* EDIT: Actually, you are closer to me than Anthem HQ aren't you? So we really ARE neighbours!


Also, let me know if you can't find that Pixies SACD near you and I can get you one -- for a special "Anthem friend rate" of course!


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The rumored D2 room equalization sounds like it could be quite a bargain.
> 
> *I seem to remember paying almost $3K (US) for the Lexicon upgrade board, software and 4-mic kit when I upgraded my MC-12 a few years back to add the room EQ. Hell, the 4-mic kit alone was $700. So 1/10th of that for a D2 mic and room correction software would be terrific.*



3k$. OUCH!







It's nice to see some true numbers here. Make you realize how much of a bargain the room-eq software + mic for the Anthem D2 will be.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And at approximately $300, it's definitely worth buying your own microphone, because you WILL need to run your room correction software more than once. Over the years I've moved speakers around, moved furniture, changed my subwoofer, and added a big rear-projection TV -- all of which required re-running the auto equalization routine on the Lexicon.



Well said. My opinion also. Some people buy interconnects and high-end power cords for alot more then 300$...so ...


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Anthem's noise reduction is OK, but nothing spectacular. It is widely considered to be about half as good as the best available (....however you measure this....).
> 
> 
> The thing to remember is that there is no free lunch in the noise reduction game. Once the imagery is damaged you can't really recover the information that's been lost. All you can do is to try to blend away the more obvious artifacts without over-softening the image.
> 
> --Bob




I completely agree. The Anthems noise reduction is not able to completely deal with the mosquito noise without softening the image noticeably. That said, mosquito noise is not even present on many well made DVD software.


Again with my screen size and at my viewing distance, this is not a problem. If I had something approaching a 100" screen viewed from less than 20 feet, I may feel differently. Then again, by the time the large screen is a possibility, any movies I buy will be in one of the high def formatts anyway, and the pioneer will be used for watching older titles on DVD and playing CD's.


The bottom line is that the issues being discussed are very minor, and I think you will LOVE this player when paired with the Anthem.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is free, since you don't need to buy the mic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your dealer can buy it, then he can charge what he wants to you to perform the calibration. He can do it for free if he wants (if you're a good customer). And if a dealer buy one, he can then pass it up to all the people that bought a D2 at his place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If a dealer sold 5 or 6 D2/AVM50 (or more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) then he can divide 300$ / 6 = 50$ each. And high-end dealers will probably all do it for free, if you just want to use the mic by yourself and do the software calibration alone. But if you ask him to install everything and perform the room-eq settings and calibration with the mic he bought, then he can charge what he wants.
> 
> 
> Another thing. Gostan just said there is alot of D2 owners in the Boston area. Then they can just buy 1 mic for all of them and divide the 300$ between them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And since the software is FREE, people in the same region should just buy 1 and share it, or ask a dealer to buy it and then share it with them.
> 
> 
> I know at least 7 or 8 D2/AVM50 owners in Quebec personnally. So we will probably do a group buy and divide the 300$ between us, so around 40$ each... Lexicon are charging a couple of grands (1000$, 2000$, more ?) for the software and the mic... So 40$ is ok for me...



Alain, I am sure that Gary at Wurlitzer Stereo will purchase the mic and the software and loan it out to all of the Boston D2 owners at no cost. Personally, for a $300 price of admission, I will simply opt for my own mic and sw because I seem to be constantly moving speakers and SWoofers & Electonics around and in and out in my listening/viewing room.


----------



## dseliger

Well i picked my D2 up last night and got it all hooked up and running.


The difference in sound quality (even before calibration) just blew me away!


Now for an evening of calibration...I just wanted to pop in though and say that i am blown away, i'm loving this thing!! Anyone who is considering buying one should just do it, you wont be sorry!!


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well i picked my D2 up last night and got it all hooked up and running.
> 
> 
> The difference in sound quality (even before calibration) just blew me away!
> 
> 
> Now for an evening of calibration...I just wanted to pop in though and say that i am blown away, i'm loving this thing!! Anyone who is considering buying one should just do it, you wont be sorry!!



How long to you wait for D2? I am going on six weeks.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Alain, I am sure that Gary at Wurlitzer Stereo will purchase the mic and the software and loan it out to all of the Boston D2 owners at no cost. Personally, for a $300 price of admission, I will simply opt for my own mic and sw because I seem to be constantly moving speakers and SWoofers & Electonics around and in and out in my listening/viewing room.



We should get a confirm from Gary. Fighting the 2K urge.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We should get a confirm from Gary. Fighting the 2K urge.



Tim


I will check it out with Gary on Tuesday. He is off on Mondays.


I frequent his store too much as my office is 1.5 miles away and I stop in on him often when I go to the Little Store or the Haircutting Place in the same strip center.


By the way, I am having some difficulty running either the D2 or the Pioneer 94HD with the new remote that I received for an early Fathers Day gift. Here it is:


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim
> 
> 
> I will check it out with Gary on Tuesday. He is off on Mondays.
> 
> 
> I frequent his store too much as my office is 1.5 miles away and I stop in on him often when I go to the Little Store or the Haircutting Place in the same strip center.
> 
> 
> By the way, I am having some difficulty running either the D2 or the Pioneer 94HD with the new remote that I received for an early Fathers Day gift. Here it is:



If I leave now I can be there by 2am. Will you accept a cheque???????



Peter


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tim
> 
> 
> I will check it out with Gary on Tuesday. He is off on Mondays.
> 
> 
> I frequent his store too much as my office is 1.5 miles away and I stop in on him often when I go to the Little Store or the Haircutting Place in the same strip center.
> 
> 
> By the way, I am having some difficulty running either the D2 or the Pioneer 94HD with the new remote that I received for an early Fathers Day gift. Here it is:



Thanks my friend. The remote is a riot. If it worked I'd ask where I can get one. My father's day present is being allowed to take my girls to see Fantastic Four new movie.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

If Nick is monitoring this thread, I wonder if he could throw us a bone regarding the following:


1) When will the next "official" firmware update be available? What issues will it address?


2) When will the room EQ be made available? How much will the mic cost?


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If Nick is monitoring this thread, I wonder if he could throw us a bone regarding the following:
> 
> 
> 1) When will the next "official" firmware update be available? What issues will it address?
> 
> 
> 2) When will the room EQ be made available? How much will the mic cost?



3) When will the AVM30-HD upgrade be available


----------



## Randall Morton

I updated my firmware from 1.12n to 1.12r. I guess it is more stable, but I wasn't really having problems with the 1.12n. With the r I am no longer able to use frame lock set to auto with the BDP HD1. I can get audio but no picture. I've only watched about 10 minutes of a movie with the new firmware but it seems like 24p works without the auto setting.


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I updated my firmware from 1.12n to 1.12r. I guess it is more stable, but I wasn't really having problems with the 1.12n. With the r I am no longer able to use frame lock set to auto with the BDP HD1. I can get audio but no picture. I've only watched about 10 minutes of a movie with the new firmware but it seems like 24p works without the auto setting.



Well according to Levesque, you must be seeing things. I recently posted a handshake issue after installing the latest firmware upgrade (1.6) for the XA2. I use a Halcro SSP-100 processor. Though I had no porblems with 1.5 firmware, 1.6 has caused a handshake problem limiting my output to 480P with the XA2 when directed through my pre/pro.. Now my Panny Blu Ray, Comcast DVR and Pioneer DVD all do 1080 fine through the pre/pro...just the new firmware on the Toshiba has started this new problem. Well, our favorite salesmen Levesque came into the thread touting the perfect D2 and imperfect SSP-100. So, in seeing your issue, I thought he should read this thread to see that even 'cutting edge' pieces can develop hiccups.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My pre/pro Anthem D2 doesn't have any problems with either version of the firmware with my XA2. It's also working perfectly at 1080p24 with both my PS3 and my Samsung BD-P1200.
> 
> 
> Some cutting edge manufacturers are just better then others...



I guess with all products, certain players will have issues (unless, of course, you are Levesque)


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess with all products, certain players will have issues



No doubt about it....at least with these stupid HDMI issues.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well i picked my D2 up last night and got it all hooked up and running.
> 
> 
> The difference in sound quality (even before calibration) just blew me away!
> 
> 
> Now for an evening of calibration...I just wanted to pop in though and say that i am blown away, i'm loving this thing!! Anyone who is considering buying one should just do it, you wont be sorry!!


*Now you know why we have a MASCOT*


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If Nick is monitoring this thread, I wonder if he could throw us a bone regarding the following:
> 
> 
> 1) When will the next "official" firmware update be available? What issues will it address?
> 
> 
> 2) When will the room EQ be made available? How much will the mic cost?




When I talked to Anthem, they said that the mike, stand and software (CD) would run $300.00.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When I talked to Anthem, they said that the mike, stand and software (CD) would run $300.00.



I'm IN for that UPGRADE!


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well according to Levesque, you must be seeing things. I recently posted a handshake issue after installing the latest firmware upgrade (1.6) for the XA2. I use a Halcro SSP-100 processor. Though I had no porblems with 1.5 firmware, 1.6 has caused a handshake problem limiting my output to 480P with the XA2 when directed through my pre/pro.. Now my Panny Blu Ray, Comcast DVR and Pioneer DVD all do 1080 fine through the pre/pro...just the new firmware on the Toshiba has started this new problem. Well, our favorite salesmen Levesque came into the thread touting the perfect D2 and imperfect SSP-100. So, in seeing your issue, I thought he should read this thread to see that even 'cutting edge' pieces can develop hiccups.



Jeff... I think it's fair to say that L's love of this product is not always even handed.


However, I don't think that even you would refute that Anthem's tech support has spent more that their fair share of time dealing with faulty HDMi implementations from various manufacturers, even Pioneer and Sony.. I have never seen this many firmware updates on any kind of consumer electronics companies, and the fact that both Toshiba and Panasonic are in V2.x of their firmwares amazes me... and it seems to me that they deal with issues faster than any other manufacturer out there.


This new software is beta, and the fact that they are at revision r shows how committed they are to fixing everyones issues, even though, IMO, the shouldn't have to and need to send bills to Sony, Pioneer, Toshiba, Directv and every other HDMI equipment manufacturer that cannot seem to keep their implementations clean.


If you don't like what Levesque is doing in your thread, please ask him to stop.


So I am kindly asking you to not _start_ that same kind or banter here... if you have something constructive to say to all of us here as a non-Anthem owner in the Anthem D2 tweaking guide, please keep posting here...


And a hand slap also goes out to Levesque..


Behave yourself.... we don't need _this kind_ of attention


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How long to you wait for D2? I am going on six weeks.



Well i ordered mine right when there was a shortage of the vxp cards (i think it was the vxp anyways), so it took about 5-6 weeks if i remember right.


I bet you get yours any day now, im just across the border so shipping might have been a day or two faster.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I updated my firmware from 1.12n to 1.12r. I guess it is more stable, but I wasn't really having problems with the 1.12n. With the r I am no longer able to use frame lock set to auto with the BDP HD1. I can get audio but no picture. I've only watched about 10 minutes of a movie with the new firmware but it seems like 24p works without the auto setting.



Randall.... It wouldn't make sense, but maybe it is a refinement of the new dual output feature on the D2, and maybe they made some changes in how it is dealing with 24p and the auto mode... and 24p works if auto is off and still passes 24p to the display?


I also know that my email from Nick with 1.12r made some mention about the HD1, and that they hadn't addressed some issues yet with the newest player firmware.


----------



## FilmMixer

I am putting out an invitation to those in the Los Angeles area...


I am going to be demoing a 10 minute clip of a film I mixed that has been mixed in true discrete 7.1 for home video release...


The demo will occur this Thursday night at 8:00pm in Studio City, CA. This is the only thread I have posted in so far, for obvious reasons







It will be a short demo, but I think it's pretty effective.


If you are interested, please PM me...


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Though I had no porblems with 1.5 firmware, 1.6 has caused a handshake problem limiting my output to 480P with the XA2 when directed through my pre/pro..



Maybe this should be in the Tosh thread. Randall and Levesque both neither talked about 1.6 and the Anthem (for a number of pages) nor any relationship to 12r.


Missing the point (and any appropriate context).


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am putting out an invitation to those in the Los Angeles area...
> 
> 
> I am going to be demoing a 10 minute clip of a film I mixed that has been mixed in true discrete 7.1 for home video release...
> 
> 
> The demo will occur this Thursday night at 8:00pm in Studio City, CA. This is the only thread I have posted in so far, for obvious reasons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will be a short demo, but I think it's pretty effective.
> 
> 
> If you are interested, please PM me...



Marc, I'm definitely working on this, as I really want to be there. I am going to be in Van Nuys Thursday afternoon, so I would just stay out that direction until evening (I would just need to figure out how to stay entertained from 3:30 to 8:00)!


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well according to Levesque, you must be seeing things. I recently posted a handshake issue after installing the latest firmware upgrade (1.6) for the XA2. I use a Halcro SSP-100 processor. Though I had no porblems with 1.5 firmware, 1.6 has caused a handshake problem limiting my output to 480P with the XA2 when directed through my pre/pro.. Now my Panny Blu Ray, Comcast DVR and Pioneer DVD all do 1080 fine through the pre/pro...just the new firmware on the Toshiba has started this new problem. Well, our favorite salesmen Levesque came into the thread touting the perfect D2 and imperfect SSP-100. So, in seeing your issue, I thought he should read this thread to see that even 'cutting edge' pieces can develop hiccups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess with all products, certain players will have issues (unless, of course, you are Levesque)




Well, it is still beta firmware and I think the 24P is working correctly, just not with framelock set to auto.


----------



## shah993

In case you guys decide to meet,I would like to be part of it.I am just 50 miles from Montreal and and usually come there atleast once a week.The D2 and the bread from Au Pain Dore are two of the best Canadian products ever!!


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Marc, I'm definitely working on this, as I really want to be there. I am going to be in Van Nuys Thursday afternoon, so I would just stay out that direction until evening (I would just need to figure out how to stay entertained from 3:30 to 8:00)!



Rob.. I won't know until that day, but you should be able to come and sit in on the mix that day


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jeff... I think it's fair to say that L's love of this product is not always even handed.
> 
> 
> However, I don't think that even you would refute that Anthem's tech support has spent more that their fair share of time dealing with faulty HDMi implementations from various manufacturers, even Pioneer and Sony.. I have never seen this many firmware updates on any kind of consumer electronics companies, and the fact that both Toshiba and Panasonic are in V2.x of their firmwares amazes me... and it seems to me that they deal with issues faster than any other manufacturer out there.
> 
> 
> This new software is beta, and the fact that they are at revision r shows how committed they are to fixing everyones issues, even though, IMO, the shouldn't have to and need to send bills to Sony, Pioneer, Toshiba, Directv and every other HDMI equipment manufacturer that cannot seem to keep their implementations clean.
> 
> 
> If you don't like what Levesque is doing in your thread, please ask him to stop.
> 
> 
> So I am kindly asking you to not _start_ that same kind or banter here... if you have something constructive to say to all of us here as a non-Anthem owner in the Anthem D2 tweaking guide, please keep posting here...
> 
> 
> And a hand slap also goes out to Levesque..
> 
> 
> Behave yourself.... we don't need _this kind_ of attention



Marc,

My sentiments exactly........on every count.


Thank you for raising it. This place is hallowed ground!


Peter


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am putting out an invitation to those in the Los Angeles area...
> 
> 
> I am going to be demoing a 10 minute clip of a film I mixed that has been mixed in true discrete 7.1 for home video release...
> 
> 
> The demo will occur this Thursday night at 8:00pm in Studio City, CA. This is the only thread I have posted in so far, for obvious reasons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will be a short demo, but I think it's pretty effective.
> 
> 
> If you are interested, please PM me...



I'm almost tempted to fly in. I would give my right ******** to be there. Is this a 'product' we might see on the shelves anytime in the near future???


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

FilmMixer,

I suppose the question that has to be asked here is how much you think your new 7.1 dicrete mix will suffer when played at only 5.1 (high bandwidth, HDMI PCM) into a D2 and then raised by the D2's DPLIIX to 7.1 (+THX? +THX2?) for output to the speakers?

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am putting out an invitation to those in the Los Angeles area...
> 
> 
> I am going to be demoing a 10 minute clip of a film I mixed that has been mixed in true discrete 7.1 for home video release...
> 
> 
> The demo will occur this Thursday night at 8:00pm in Studio City, CA. This is the only thread I have posted in so far, for obvious reasons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will be a short demo, but I think it's pretty effective.
> 
> 
> If you are interested, please PM me...



FilmMixer,


Would really enjoy this, but I will be in San Franancisco, as I have an annual client dinner that night.


I hope there will be another chance.


Michael


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think your dealers must be much more generous than our dealers down here!
> 
> 
> I can't even fathom a dealer/calibrator coming in and doing this for much less than the $300.00 that the mic (might) cost!
> 
> 
> I think I have a much better chance of getting together with some fellow AVS enthusiasts in the area who are really into this stuff and figure it out together...even if they don't have a D2!




Rob,


When the Mic becomes available, we should hit up Uncle Kevin at one time. We should also maybe think about going in on one for the Orange County area.


Michael


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well according to Levesque, you must be seeing things.
> 
> 
> I guess with all products, certain players will have issues (unless, of course, you are Levesque)



TheBland. My Toshiba HD-XA2 (1080p60), my PS3 (1080p24) and my Samsung BD-P1200 (1080p24) are working prefectly with my Anthem D2. What can I say? Do you want me to lie so you can be all nice and cozy with your problematic Halcro SSP pre/pro?










Leave it at that please, and go away. You're a well known Anthem basher and you won't change. Be happy with your Halcro. BTW, are you still waiting for that "coming soon" (since what, 1 year of waiting?) hardware upgrade (= $) to get multi-ch LPCM over HDMI to fix that crippled HDMI connexion on your Halcro?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob.. I won't know until that day, but you should be able to come and sit in on the mix that day



Now that would be _very_ cool!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 
> When the Mic becomes available, we should hit up Uncle Kevin at one time. We should also maybe think about going in on one for the Orange County area.
> 
> 
> Michael



Michael, you can definitely count me in on this!


Perhaps others in SoCal would be interested as well? Ahem...Marc?


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> TheBland. My Toshiba HD-XA2 (1080p60), my PS3 (1080p24) and my Samsung BD-P1200 (1080p24) are working prefectly with my Anthem D2. What can I say? Do you want me to lie so you can be all nice and cozy with your problematic Halcro SSP pre/pro?



Are there any upsides to using the BD-P1200 over the PS3 when playing Blu-Rays? Quality, etc??


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are there any upsides to using the BD-P1200 over the PS3 when playing Blu-Rays? Quality, etc??



The Reon-VX chip of the Samsung BD-P1200 (or the "twin" brother from the dark side, the Toshiba HD-XA2) is alot better with standard DVDs then the PS3. And I'm talking about using those as stand-alone players only.


But for Blu-ray watching, there is no diffrences between the Samsung or the PS3, and even the new Pioneer 94HD. For the very few Blu-ray video concerts filmed in video mode, then the Samsung is better then both the PS3 and the 94HD. And don't forget that the PS3 is a game console, can be noisy for some, can output alot of heat for others, and is using a stupid incompatible Bluetooth remote... In a closed rack, the Samsung or Pioneer could be better choices...


For standard DVD, you can also use the Gennum VXP with the D2 instead, it's not really a problem. For exemple, with the new Pioneer 94HD, you can get 480i over HDMI for standard DVD watching and use the Gennum chip instead. The Oppo at 480i over HDMi is also another cost-wise choice.


The Pioneer, Smasung and PS3 are 3 great Blu-ray players, all doing 1080p24 out over HDMI. So... if you want to use the Reon-VX for standard DVD, go with the Samsung, but if you want to use the Gennum VXP chip of the D2 instead, then go with the Pioneer 94HD (or the Oppo).


I'm using the Toshiba HD-XA2 with the Reon-VX for standard DVD and HD-DVD, and the Oppo for 480i over HDMI (for those times when I want to use the Gennum VXP instead of the Reon), and the PS3 for Blu-ray. All the bases are covered.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm almost tempted to fly in. I would give my right ******** to be there. Is this a 'product' we might see on the shelves anytime in the near future???
> 
> 
> Peter



This demo is for the director, who wasn't around last week when we showed the picture editor. If he likes it, it will be the start of trying to get the entire film re-mastered in 7.1 by the same person I am doing this with...


After this I will know more.. and for anyone I share the details with, please keep them quiet until I am 'allowed' to share with everyone










Also, anybody can PM me.. don't want to clog up this thread with OT discussion..


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FilmMixer,
> 
> I suppose the question that has to be asked here is how much you think your new 7.1 dicrete mix will suffer when played at only 5.1 (high bandwidth, HDMI PCM) into a D2 and then raised by the D2's DPLIIX to 7.1 (+THX? +THX2?) for output to the speakers?
> 
> --Bob



I'm soon to find out... This will be one of the areas where a lossless encode will come into play... I might see if we can do a test BR with PCM 5.1 with the surround matrixed, a DTS-HD 7.1, a DTS-HD MA 7.1 and a 7.1 TrueHD test... this demo is only 10 minutes long, but it is really expensive to author these kind of test discs.


Using the lossless codecs will allow for the player to do the downmix to 5.1. If this goes through, I will strongly suggest we do a 5.1 PCM and 7.1 TrueHD


----------



## dseliger

Thank you for the information! That's a lot more detail than i expected and very good to know!


I actually have an XA2 as well and use it for standard DVD and HD-DVDs, I use the PS3 primarily for blu-ray (I game mostly on the Xbox360). The remote control issue is kind of a pain, i agree










I do love the quailty of standard DVD's coming out of the XA2, hard to beat IMO.


I am using a rack and have the PS3 on the custom middle atlantic shelf so it doesnt look bad. I guess the only reason to upgrade at this point would be for the remote control which i cant justify since my blu-ray collection is only 20 or so discs currently.


Thanks again for the detailed information!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Reon-VX chip of the Samsung BD-P1200 (or the "twin" brother from the dark side, the Toshiba HD-XA2) is alot better with standard DVDs then the PS3. And I'm talking about using those as stand-alone players only.
> 
> 
> But for Blu-ray watching, there is no diffrences between the Samsung or the PS3, and even the new Pioneer 94HD. For the very few Blu-ray video concerts filmed in video mode, then the Samsung is better then both the PS3 and the 94HD. And don't forget that the PS3 is a game console, can be noisy for some, can output alot of heat for others, and is using a stupid incompatible Bluetooth remote... In a closed rack, the Samsung or Pioneer could be better choices...
> 
> 
> For standard DVD, you can also use the Gennum VXP with the D2 instead, it's not really a problem. For exemple, with the new Pioneer 94HD, you can get 480i over HDMI for standard DVD watching and use the Gennum chip instead. The Oppo at 480i over HDMi is also another cost-wise choice.
> 
> 
> The Pioneer, Smasung and PS3 are 3 great Blu-ray players, all doing 1080p24 out over HDMI. So... if you want to use the Reon-VX for standard DVD, go with the Samsung, but if you want to use the Gennum VXP chip of the D2 instead, then go with the Pioneer 94HD (or the Oppo).
> 
> 
> I'm using the Toshiba HD-XA2 with the Reon-VX for standard DVD and HD-DVD, and the Oppo for 480i over HDMI (for those times when I want to use the Gennum VXP instead of the Reon), and the PS3 for Blu-ray. All the bases are covered.


----------



## shn750

Hello everyone.


After 5 weeks of waiting I finally got my new D2 in. I've been reading as much as I could on this thread to get the most info on the D2 while waiting for its delivery and managed to get stumped on what may be a basic oversight. I've just spent the last 2 hours searching through this thread for some answers but couldn't find it. (Granted my eyes are getting tired and I may have missed it)


I'm using the D2 with Directv H20, Pioneer Plasma 5050HD, and Pioneer 59avi DVD. H20, Plasma, and 50avi are all using HDMI. I've set the D2 video output to the Pioneer's 1280x768. I can't get any picture on the plasma with either the H20 or the DVD. I can, however, hear sound. I've also played around with the data format setting but can't get any picture..just sounds.


Again I apologize if this has been discussed before, but I'm starting to pull my hair out at this point. Can anyone help?


Thanks

Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello everyone.
> 
> 
> After 5 weeks of waiting I finally got my new D2 in. I've been reading as much as I could on this thread to get the most info on the D2 while waiting for its delivery and managed to get stumped on what may be a basic oversight. I've just spent the last 2 hours searching through this thread for some answers but couldn't find it. (Granted my eyes are getting tired and I may have missed it)
> 
> 
> I'm using the D2 with Directv H20, Pioneer Plasma 5050HD, and Pioneer 59avi DVD. H20, Plasma, and 50avi are all using HDMI. I've set the D2 video output to the Pioneer's 1280x768. I can't get any picture on the plasma with either the H20 or the DVD. I can, however, hear sound. I've also played around with the data format setting but can't get any picture..just sounds.
> 
> 
> Again I apologize if this has been discussed before, but I'm starting to pull my hair out at this point. Can anyone help?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve



Steve, I don't believe your Pioneer plasma is willing to accept it's native 768p resolution as a valid input resolution. Check your owner's manual carefully.


Try the HDTV standard resolutions from the D2 (720p and 1080i) and if those work then this Pioneer limitation is likely the problem. I don't know if any of the Pioneer experts here have found a way to make the Pioneer plasma accept its native resolution.

--Bob


----------



## shn750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Steve, I don't believe your Pioneer plasma is willing to accept it's native 768p resolution as a valid input resolution. Check your owner's manual carefully.
> 
> 
> Try the HDTV standard resolutions from the D2 (720p and 1080i) and if those work then this Pioneer limitation is likely the problem. I don't know if any of the Pioneer experts here have found a way to make the Pioneer plasma accept its native resolution.
> 
> --Bob




Bob I knew I could always count on you. You are correct. When changing the output to 1280x720p it works. I just assumed that the pioneer would accept its native resolution.


How much picture quality am I really losing by using 720p or 1080i vs Pioneer's naive resolution? Can I tell the difference?


Does anyone know a work around to have the D2 accept its native resolution?


Thanks again.

Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob I knew I could always count on you. You are correct. When changing the output to 1280x720p it works. I just assumed that the pioneer would accept its native resolution.
> 
> 
> How much picture quality am I really losing by using 720p or 1080i vs Pioneer's naive resolution? Can I tell the difference?
> 
> 
> Does anyone know a work around to have the D2 accept its native resolution?
> 
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> Steve



Having the Pioneer scale 720p input to its native 768p should do just fine for you. The Pioneer has a well-regarded scaler.


Some other displays with this limitation ALSO do strange things with 720p input -- clipping portions of the image off the sides for example. So it is wise to try 1080i as well to see if you can detect anything like that. But unless there is a specific problem you are trying to fix, you should stick with 720p input so that the plasma doesn't also have to de-interlace as well as scale the input to get it to its native resolution.


On a 50" display, the difference between true native resolution and scaling twice (D2 scales to 720p and then Pioneer scales to 768p) should be quite subtle.

--Bob


----------



## shn750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Having the Pioneer scale 720p input to its native 768p should do just fine for you. The Pioneer has a well-regarded scaler.
> 
> 
> Some other displays with this limitation ALSO do strange things with 720p input -- clipping portions of the image off the sides for example. So it is wise to try 1080i as well to see if you can detect anything like that. But unless there is a specific problem you are trying to fix, you should stick with 720p input so that the plasma doesn't also have to de-interlace as well as scale the input to get it to its native resolution.
> 
> 
> On a 50" display, the difference between true native resolution and scaling twice (D2 scales to 720p and then Pioneer scales to 768p) should be quite subtle.
> 
> --Bob




when I try using the 1080i setting I get the clipping portions and parts of the image being cut off. I guess this is similar to those using the 720p input setting. For now, I'll just use the 720p.


Most HD broadcast are in 1080i. Does this mean that the D2 will perform additonal processing by de-interlacing 1080i to 720p, then the plasma has to scale 720p to 768p?


Thanks

Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> when I try using the 1080i setting I get the clipping portions and parts of the image being cut off. I guess this is similar to those using the 720p input setting. For now, I'll just use the 720p.
> 
> 
> Most HD broadcast are in 1080i. Does this mean that the D2 will perform additonal processing by de-interlacing 1080i to 720p, then the plasma has to scale 720p to 768p?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve



The D2 will de-interlace 1080i to 1080p and then scale 1080p to 720p.


The plasma will then scale 720p to 768p.


Both of them will do video level adjustments as well (Brightness, Contrast, Color, Tint and Sharpness).


There's also other video processing that goes on behind the scenes. Things like Color Space correction, upsampling of video resolution, Gamma Correction and the processing the the plasma has to do to correct for the fact that the different primary colors fire at slightly different speeds. So the de-interlacing and scaling are just two pieces of the puzzle.


Scaling twice means that there are two places where rounding errors could creep in for certain scenes. But again, the Pioneer's electronics are good enough that its second scaling pass will only introduce some pretty subtle stuff. It should look great.

--Bob


----------



## TomHuffman

According to the newly-released HQV HD Benchmark test disc, the Gennum processor in the Anthem AVM50 fails the HD Film Resolution test (1080i-1080P inverse telecine deinterlacing), though it seems to process 3/2 pulldown correctly. It passed the HD Video Resolution test (1080i-1080p motion adaptive deinterlacing). Strange. This is not an expected result.


Can anyone confirm this? I'm wondering if the long HDMI cable might have compromised bandwidth.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> According to the newly-released HQV HD Benchmark test disc, the Gennum processor in the Anthem AVM50 fails the HD Film Resolution test (1080i-1080P inverse telecine deinterlacing), though it seems to process 3/2 pulldown correctly. It passed the HD Video Resolution test (1080i-1080p motion adaptive deinterlacing). Strange. This is not an expected result.
> 
> 
> Can anyone confirm this? I'm wondering if the long HDMI cable might have compromised bandwidth.



I honestly can't confirm one way or the other.


However - my two cent opinion - is BE CAUTIOUS in Trusting

a HQV Disc. Why? Because they have a reputation of constructing

test patterns that only look good with their OWN CHIPS.


I don't count them as independent and unbiased.


But Remember - I can not confirm my lack of TRUST for

them on this disc. I'm referring to previous experiences.


----------



## Nevr2Big

Hoping for a little help from the local talent here.


I was trying to play a family videocam tape today with no success. I plugged the camera video out into the composite VCR RCA jack and the 2 analog audio outs into the corresponding RCA jacks as well.


I could hear the audio but did not see any picture. Went into source set-up menus and see that the Scaler Input has no "composite" heading so left this as "none". Composite video in is "VCR". S-vid, component, HDMI etc all set to none or no.


Still Nothing...


Any ideas ?


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hoping for a little help from the local talent here.
> 
> 
> I was trying to play a family videocam tape today with no success. I plugged the camera video out into the composite VCR RCA jack and the 2 analog audio outs into the corresponding RCA jacks as well.
> 
> 
> I could hear the audio but did not see any picture. Went into source set-up menus and see that the Scaler Input has no "composite" heading so left this as "none". Composite video in is "VCR". S-vid, component, HDMI etc all set to none or no.
> 
> 
> Still Nothing...
> 
> 
> Any ideas ?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Composite video input is not "processed" by the Anthem -- only "passed through". See section 2.1 of the Anthem manual.


Use an S-video connection from your camcorder if it has one, since S-video input can be processed through the Anthem's scaler and looks a lot better than composite video, otherwise you will need to run composite video output to your display.


There are also cheap composite video to S-video adapters available (see Radio Shack). The quality of these is usually not great, but really not that much worse than composite video itself. I'm not sure whether or not the Anthem would have trouble recognizing and processing the S-video output from such an adapter, but again, they are cheap, so it could be worth a try.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> According to the newly-released HQV HD Benchmark test disc, the Gennum processor in the Anthem AVM50 fails the HD Film Resolution test (1080i-1080P inverse telecine deinterlacing), though it seems to process 3/2 pulldown correctly. It passed the HD Video Resolution test (1080i-1080p motion adaptive deinterlacing). Strange. This is not an expected result.
> 
> 
> Can anyone confirm this? I'm wondering if the long HDMI cable might have compromised bandwidth.



Tom are you running that 1080i/60 to 1080p/60? If so, that certainly is a surprising result. You should contact Anthem tech support. You may need to update the Anthem firmware.


If you are running 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 (with film based content of course) then there are known problems with that which Anthem is already aware of.


I don't have a 1080p capable display, so I can't check what you are seeing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tom,

Also, go to Video Source Adjust / Picture / Film Mode and confirm that it is still in the factory default setting of Auto detect. What you are seeing might result if it got changed to Off by mistake (i.e., force Video mode).


The Film Mode setting is made on a per input basis. Select the relevant input and then press and hold the "7" key to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu settings for that input. Film Mode = Auto should be the default for all inputs.


Off hand, I can't see how an HDMI cable related issue could cause the result you are reporting.


There were some issues with 1080i and 1080p in the original V1.11 release, but the usual symptom was total loss of picture. We've had no reports here of 1080i film mode de-interlacing problems, and given the number of users who regularly watch HDTV movies at 1080i input on big screen, 1080p setups here, I'd find it surprising if there really is a problem here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I honestly can't confirm one way or the other.
> 
> 
> However - my two cent opinion - is BE CAUTIOUS in Trusting
> 
> a HQV Disc. Why? Because they have a reputation of constructing
> 
> test patterns that only look good with their OWN CHIPS.
> 
> 
> I don't count them as independent and unbiased.
> 
> 
> But Remember - I can not confirm my lack of TRUST for
> 
> them on this disc. I'm referring to previous experiences.



The thing is, it is the video mode de-interlacing that should be the tough problem here, and the Anthem is passing that test.


Film mode de-interlacing should be straightforward if film mode is being properly detected. The only difficulty is when the cadence changes at edits and such.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The mic upgrade for me is $2300 (for an AVM-50 user. Come on D3, want to be first in line
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note 12r solved my start problems. THANKS NICK!!!!



Spoke too soon.


----------



## TomHuffman

I checked and the Film Mode was set to auto. Here's the thing. I saw the same problem whether I ran the signal through the AVM50 or directly into the JVC RS1, which has Gennum processing built-in.


So it doesn't seem to be an Anthem-specific problem.


The reason I suspected the HDMI run is that it's a test of whether the system deinterlaces 1080i film sources into 1080p without losing resolution. It was showing a loss of resolution, which I thought might be a bandwidth-related problem with the cable run.


But I'm basically grasping at straws because I can't think of why else Gennum processing would fail this pretty basic test. (It's a test pattern with small squares, one containing 1-pixel-wide horizontal stripes alternating black and white and another with similar vertical stripes. The entire pattern moves back and forth. The test fails when the squares fail to resolve the lines cleanly and exhibit any flashing or strobing.)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tom,
> 
> Also, go to Video Source Adjust / Picture / Film Mode and confirm that it is still in the factory default setting of Auto detect. What you are seeing might result if it got changed to Off by mistake (i.e., force Video mode).
> 
> 
> The Film Mode setting is made on a per input basis. Select the relevant input and then press and hold the "7" key to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu settings for that input. Film Mode = Auto should be the default for all inputs.
> 
> 
> Off hand, I can't see how an HDMI cable related issue could cause the result you are reporting.
> 
> 
> There were some issues with 1080i and 1080p in the original V1.11 release, but the usual symptom was total loss of picture. We've had no reports here of 1080i film mode de-interlacing problems, and given the number of users who regularly watch HDTV movies at 1080i input on big screen, 1080p setups here, I'd find it surprising if there really is a problem here.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## ANSEK

With my DA2 and A5 due to arrive any day now, I was wondering what everyone is doing for power conditioning if anything?


----------



## Kris Deering

The Gennum does fail HQV's test but it does do proper inverse telecine. I have several other test patterns that confirm this. That is the only test pattern I know of that the Anthem doesn't pass. I am not sure why as I am not sure how SO did the pattern.


----------



## TomHuffman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Gennum does fail HQV's test but it does do proper inverse telecine. I have several other test patterns that confirm this. That is the only test pattern I know of that the Anthem doesn't pass. I am not sure why as I am not sure how SO did the pattern.



Thanks Kris. This is really interesting.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Kris. This is really interesting.



I think Kris might have added some credibility to my suspicion


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Kris & Tom,

Bizarre....


I guess DrHankz gets the donut.


It will be fun to hear from Gennum (and SO, I suppose) as to how they explain this.


============================================


For any newbies following this: Stress tests like this can be a bit misleading until the details are properly vetted. The bottom line here is that there is, as of yet, NO GOOD REASON to believe the Anthems aren't handling de-interlacing of real-world, film-based input at 1080i/60 just fine. This is not that tough a problem so it is not surprising that the Anthems appear to be doing it right.


De-interlacing problems for 1080i input (even for video-based input which is the tougher case) are not nearly as obvious as for SDTV input since the image resolution is higher. And many folks even have problems noticing SDTV de-interlacing faults until they are pointed out. But again, we have enough knowledgeable folks here using the Anthems for large screen, HDTV, movie viewing at 1080i input and 1080p output that if there was REALLY a problem it would have been bitched about by now.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kris & Tom,
> 
> Bizarre....
> 
> 
> I guess DrHankz gets the donut.



I get the Donut










How did you know I was FAT


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With my DA2 and A5 due to arrive any day now, I was wondering what everyone is doing for power conditioning if anything?



I'm not a big believer in power "conditioning" -- that's the job of the power supply in the D2 itself -- but I do use an APC-branded battery "uninterruptable power" product which doubles as a surge protector and enables the D2 (and my HD-DVR) to stay running across momentary power glitches. The battery backup is mainly a convenience feature -- i.e., I don't have to wait for the D2 to restart.


Keep in mind that the most commonly found surge protection technology (MOV) has a limited life. Each surge uses up some of that life. After enough surges the protector just becomes a power strip -- with no surge protection at all. Most such protectors come with an indicator light indicating when they should be replaced. Unfortunately most people just ignore those lights.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Kris. This is really interesting.



Tom, wasn't this with a AVM50 going to an RS1 (if I remember correctly from another thread)? If so, did you try the same test pattern going directly to the RS1 (taking the Anthem out of the loop)? I would think that the RS1 would fail as well since it is also using a Gennum chip.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tom, wasn't this with a AVM50 going to an RS1 (if I remember correctly from another thread)? If so, did you try the same test pattern going directly to the RS1 (taking the Anthem out of the loop)? I would think that the RS1 would fail as well since it is also using a Gennum chip.




Rob.. allow me..



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomHuffman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I checked and the Film Mode was set to auto. Here's the thing. I saw the same problem whether I ran the signal through the AVM50 or directly into the JVC RS1, which has Gennum processing built-in
> 
> 
> So it doesn't seem to be an Anthem-specific problem.


----------



## TomHuffman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tom, wasn't this with a AVM50 going to an RS1 (if I remember correctly from another thread)? If so, did you try the same test pattern going directly to the RS1 (taking the Anthem out of the loop)? I would think that the RS1 would fail as well since it is also using a Gennum chip.


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post10811457 


I wouldn't quite endorse the SO conspiracy just yet. Gennum processing also mysteriously fails the slowest vertical moving zone plate pattern on Avia Pro, and Avia has no affiliation with Silicon Optics that I am aware of.


I suspect that this is not the last we've heard of this. These discs have gotten a lot of press and will be widely used by reviewers.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob.. allow me..



Thanks Marc!


----------



## Melgon

Bob,


I think we have a real problem here and it does not seem to be limited to Anthem products but to other Gennum VXP based processors as well.

SO scalers are somewhat of a standard in the Broadcast industry and their Benchmark test material is considered a true "benchmark" for video processor manufacturers.

I had a suspicion all along why HD content (HD-DVD & BluRay) suddenly seemed to have a soft "touch" when I discontinued to use my previous scaler (Silicon Optix Whithorse aka NEC Theatersync) and started to do 1080i to 18080p deinterlacing with the Anthem internal Gennum VXP. The SMPTE 133 test pattern painfully reveals the problem. I did an ISF calibration of an RS1 last week and could not quite figure out what was going on with the de-interlacing. Now with the HQV Benchmark disc this suddenly makes sense. The Gennum engineers better get back to the drawing board to sort that problem out quickly and pass the fix on to the OEM manufacturers. Unbelievable ....


Helmut






> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kris & Tom,
> 
> Bizarre....
> 
> 
> I guess DrHankz gets the donut.
> 
> 
> It will be fun to hear from Gennum (and SO, I suppose) as to how they explain this.
> 
> 
> ============================================
> 
> 
> For any newbies following this: Stress tests like this can be a bit misleading until the details are properly vetted. The bottom line here is that there is, as of yet, NO GOOD REASON to believe the Anthems aren't handling de-interlacing of real-world, film-based input at 1080i/60 just fine. This is not that tough a problem so it is not surprising that the Anthems appear to be doing it right.
> 
> 
> De-interlacing problems for 1080i input (even for video-based input which is the tougher case) are not nearly as obvious as for SDTV input since the image resolution is higher. And many folks even have problems noticing SDTV de-interlacing faults until they are pointed out. But again, we have enough knowledgeable folks here using the Anthems for large screen, HDTV, movie viewing at 1080i input and 1080p output that if there was REALLY a problem it would have been bitched about by now.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Melgon

I am wondering if anyone else is experiencing this problem:


I noticed the following issue (independent of new firmware release). When I switch sources e.g. from Blu-Ray to HD-DVD (6-channel PCM over HDMI) or to a standard AC-3 source, short "sharp" spiking sound artifacts are audible through the sound system. The channels these artifacts emanate from are random. The sources are assigned to different presets like VCR, DVD, AUX etc. The power amplifier is connected to the balanced outputs (shouldn't make a difference though).


-Helmut


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Helmut,

You and Tom should get on the phone with Nick and Frank at Anthem tech support and lay out what you are seeing and how you are producing it.


I don't know what version of Anthem firmware you are using, but that could be relevant. I don't doubt you have a real effect here, but whatever the answer is here has to account for other tests, subjective and objective (such as those reported above by Kris), that say the Anthem is doing the correct stuff with 1080i to 1080p for film-based content (as well as video-based content -- where apparently it already passes the new HQV test).


Apparently this isn't hard to reproduce, so it should be easy for them to isolate what's going on and whether there is a simple answer either in setup or in firmware or something more serious going on.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Melgon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am wondering if anyone else is experiencing this problem:
> 
> 
> I noticed the following issue (independent of new firmware release). When I switch sources e.g. from Blu-Ray to HD-DVD (6-channel PCM over HDMI) or to a standard AC-3 source, short "sharp" spiking sound artifacts are audible through the sound system. The channels these artifacts emanate from are random. The sources are assigned to different presets like VCR, DVD, AUX etc. The power amplifier is connected to the balanced outputs (shouldn't make a difference though).
> 
> 
> -Helmut



Check your setting in Setup / Source Setup / Muting for each source. We haven't had any reports like this that I can recall in here, but Anthem suggests increasing the muting period if there is any sort of noise during source transitions.


If that doesn't do the trick, or if the necessary muting delay to cure this seems too excessive, you should contact Anthem and see if this suggests a problem in the audio switching circuit.

--Bob


----------



## Melgon

Bob,


I already sent Nick an e-mail describing the problem. I also e-mailed Gennum tech support to hear what they have to say ... let's see what happens next.

I would continue to use my "old" SO scaler, however the darn thing does not pass 6-channel PCM over HDMI (only 2 channels).


Helmut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Helmut,
> 
> You and Tom should get on the phone with Nick and Frank at Anthem tech support and lay out what you are seeing and how you are producing it.
> 
> 
> I don't know what version of Anthem firmware you are using, but that could be relevant. I don't doubt you have a real effect here, but whatever the answer is here has to account for other tests, subjective and objective (such as those reported above by Kris), that say the Anthem is doing the correct stuff with 1080i to 1080p for film-based content (as well as video-based content -- where apparently it already passes the new HQV test).
> 
> 
> Apparently this isn't hard to reproduce, so it should be easy for them to isolate what's going on and whether there is a simple answer either in setup or in firmware or something more serious going on.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Melgon

Bob,


I haven't thought about that. I'll definetely give it a try. Thank you.


Helmut



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Check your setting in Setup / Source Setup / Muting for each source. We haven't had any reports like this that I can recall in here, but Anthem suggests increasing the muting period if there is any sort of noise during source transitions.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't do the trick, or if the necessary muting delay to cure this seems too excessive, you should contact Anthem and see if this suggests a problem in the audio switching circuit.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Melgon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I already sent Nick an e-mail describing the problem. I also e-mailed Gennum tech support to hear what they have to say ... let's see what happens next.
> 
> I would continue to use my "old" SO scaler, however the darn thing does not pass 6-channel PCM over HDMI (only 2 channels).
> 
> 
> Helmut



Other possibilities if you are seeing a "soft" image are that you have turned on Noise Reduction or Chroma Bug Filtering unnecessarily (Video Source Adjust / Picture for each input).


Also, be sure you are not using Video Source Adjust / Scale Out / Zoom (regardless of the degree of Zoom) for any normal viewing or for image quality tests like this. And Note: There is a bug in the original V1.11 software that can cause the Scale Out setting to change unexpectedly at power up for the input that happens to be selected at power up. So we've had some reports here of folks finding that their expected setting (Anamorphic, Panoramic, or Letter/Pillar Box) had changed unexpectedly to Zoom and that was the cause of image problems.


Also be aware that if you are doing any tests from Component 480i sources with Anthem firmware earlier than V1.11g, there is a significant bug which affects that style of input in some units. At first glance, it looks a lot like de-interlacing failure. You'll know you've been bit by this if Video Source Adjust / Info displays 480x1440i instead of 480x720i as the video input resolution. This bug appears to be unique to Component 480i input. S-video 480i and HDMI 480i don't seem to ever get this problem. V1.11g software, and V1.12q (and later) software both fix this problem.


Some folks have had significant problems with 1080i and 1080p, both for input and output, and both for HDMI and Component with the original V1.11 software. However the usual symptom is complete loss of image as opposed to a damaged image. This is fixed in roughly V1.11e and later software versions. I've no idea if that fix is relevant to the 1080i film-mode de-interlacing problem you are reporting.

--Bob


----------



## Melgon

Bob,


I am currently using V1.12r.


NO NR, no chroma bug filtering, scaling is disabled to allow 1:1 pixel mapping, I already got over the 480i component bug. I believe that this problem does not only affect Anthem but also other Gennum licensees.


Thank you for your help. I appreciate it.


-Helmut



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Other possibilities if you are seeing a "soft" image are that you have turned on Noise Reduction or Chroma Bug Filtering unnecessarily (Video Source Adjust / Picture for each input).
> 
> 
> Also, be sure you are not using Video Source Adjust / Scale Out / Zoom (regardless of the degree of Zoom) for any normal viewing or for image quality tests like this. And Note: There is a bug in the original V1.11 software that can cause the Scale Out setting to change unexpectedly at power up for the input that happens to be selected at power up. So we've had some reports here of folks finding that their expected setting (Anamorphic, Panoramic, or Letter/Pillar Box) had changed unexpectedly to Zoom and that was the cause of image problems.
> 
> 
> Also be aware that if you are doing any tests from Component 480i sources with Anthem firmware earlier than V1.11g, there is a significant bug which affects that style of input in some units. At first glance, it looks a lot like de-interlacing failure. You'll know you've been bit by this if Video Source Adjust / Info displays 480x1440i instead of 480x720i as the video input resolution. This bug appears to be unique to Component 480i input. S-video 480i and HDMI 480i don't seem to ever get this problem. V1.11g software, and V1.12q (and later) software both fix this problem.
> 
> 
> Some folks have had significant problems with 1080i and 1080p, both for input and output, and both for HDMI and Component with the original V1.11 software. However the usual symptom is complete loss of image as opposed to a damaged image. This is fixed in roughly V1.11e and later software versions. I've no idea if that fix is relevant to the 1080i film-mode de-interlacing problem you are reporting.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the most commonly found surge protection technology (MOV) has a limited life. Each surge uses up some of that life. After enough surges the protector just becomes a power strip -- with no surge protection at all. Most such protectors come with an indicator light indicating when they should be replaced. Unfortunately most people just ignore those lights.
> 
> --Bob



What about the Furman units? Specifically the Elite and Reference lines?


----------



## mr_fitz

Is there any difference in audio quality when hooked up to the D2 via hdmi vs optical?


What firmware version should the oppo be using?


Does anyone have a list of all the proper settings in the setup menu of the oppo for hookup to the D2?


Thanks a bunch


John


----------



## Ian_Currie

Just installed my D2. Here are some questions/comments:


I assume, like any other piece of audio electronics, the sound will improve as the unit burns in?


I was disappointed that Anthem doesn't support 4th order crossover for speakers. Any chance they'll add this?


I was also disappointed that I couldn't use the super' sub option along with the advanced crossover settings to specify a different crossover frequency per speaker. It seems you can only do this if you agree to cross over all speakers at the same freq. Am I missing something?


Running my PS3 to output 1080p/24, the Anthem converts it to 1080p/60. If I tell the Anthem to output 1080p/24 it drops frames (a slow motion effect). Is there a way to do this properly?


Is it normal to receive two remotes? Every once in a while the Anthem seems to ignore one and I have to use the other. I've swapped back and forth a number of times trying to get the Anthem to respond. Known issue by any chance?


Adjusting treble on the fly seems to be result in the setting being stored (rather than just temporary). I find this surprising. I might be somewhat biased coming from a Theta Casablanca where one could make temporary audio adjustments (e.g. to deal with a specific movie) without having to worry about those settings sticking around, but it seems to me that permanent modifications should be done within a setup menu and on-the-fly settings just be temporary.


More on the bass/treble adjustment: you can modify treble for all channels, or you can adjust separately for the fronts/center/rears etc. When you have the global' treble boosted and also boost the fronts, is it cumulative?


I was surprised how light the unit was - especially given how many features are packed into this thing.


My unit came with version 1.11e. Apart from beta versions, is this the latest?


Thanks in advance. I'm sure I'll have more questions and comments as I experiment further.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My unit came with version 1.11e. Apart from beta versions, is this the latest?



Maybe Bob and others can answer your other questions.


But I highly doubt any new factory unit would ship with

1.11e. Are you sure your unit is NEW?


----------



## shn750

Hello.


I've just received the D2 and have a question on the proper setup to dial in the display's color, contrast, brightness, tint, etc. After re-reading the calibration threads, I'm confused on whether you are using the D2 or plasma to set up the display's settings. The calibration pages basically tells you to set up all the display's settings to the default settings and remove any video or image enhancements. Also remove any vivid or game picture modes, etc. I then suspect that all the rest of the adjustments will be done using the D2's video source adjust found under the 7 button. This is so that the D2 will be doing all of the video processing?


My question is that under the video source adjust for the D2, I can't really dial in a good brightness, contrast, color settings using their color bar test patterns. I can get more adjustments using my plasma's color controls. I've also have a DVE cd and using the color filters, I can get a better calibration using the plasma's controls over the D2. So am I suppose to use the plasma's controls to adjust color, contrast, brightness, sharpness, etc? Or should I retry and attempt to use only the D2's controls under the video source adjustments to get the picture calibrated and reset my plasma back to the minimal settings?


Thanks

Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What about the Furman units? Specifically the Elite and Reference lines?



I'm not familiar with their stuff. There IS another surge protection technology, not so common, that doesn't wear out with every surge.


Somewhere in AVS there's a nice thread detailing all of this. The Search function might be able to locate it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there any difference in audio quality when hooked up to the D2 via hdmi vs optical?
> 
> 
> What firmware version should the oppo be using?
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a list of all the proper settings in the setup menu of the oppo for hookup to the D2?
> 
> 
> Thanks a bunch
> 
> 
> John



You can get SACD discs to play as high bandwidth PCM over HDMI from the Oppo. The optical can't carry that. But for standard DVDs and CDs the audio that goes over the HDMI and the audio that goes over the optical should be identical. Since you are going to want to use the HDMI for video from the Oppo, you might as well also use it for audio.

--Bob


----------



## FredHooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There IS another surge protection technology, not so common, that doesn't wear out with every surge.
> 
> --Bob



The original technology was by ZeroSurge_com (I use it for my pc); it was adapted for audio and video uses by pricewheeler_com in their Brick Wall units.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I assume, like any other piece of audio electronics, the sound will improve as the unit burns in?



Seems likely. However, I got the most improvement from properly setting and calibrating the speaker distances, speaker levels, crossovers, resonance filter, subwoofer settings, processing presets. My system sounded really good out of the box, but now it sounds FANTASTIC. Even my wife (we're both musicians) is remarking on the quality.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was also disappointed that I couldn't use the super' sub option along with the advanced crossover settings to specify a different crossover frequency per speaker. It seems you can only do this if you agree to cross over all speakers at the same freq. Am I missing something?



Using the Advanced settings options unlocks a lot of goodies. I use a different crossover for different speaker pairs. However, I do NOT use Super sub...


If you listen to music as well as HT, I highly recommend that you set up the two speaker styles (Cinema and Music) to be separate.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Running my PS3 to output 1080p/24, the Anthem converts it to 1080p/60. If I tell the Anthem to output 1080p/24 it drops frames (a slow motion effect). Is there a way to do this properly?



There are dozens of posts on this in the last 4 days. It looks like 1.12r beta might be the ticket. Or wait until the official release to do 24p.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it normal to receive two remotes? Every once in a while the Anthem seems to ignore one and I have to use the other. I've swapped back and forth a number of times trying to get the Anthem to respond. Known issue by any chance?



Yes, two remotes is a cool feature! Low batteries will cause the intermittent behavior.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Adjusting treble on the fly seems to be result in the setting being stored (rather than just temporary). I find this surprising. I might be somewhat biased coming from a Theta Casablanca where one could make temporary audio adjustments (e.g. to deal with a specific movie) without having to worry about those settings sticking around, but it seems to me that permanent modifications should be done within a setup menu and on-the-fly settings just be temporary.



I have THX Ultra enabled, so that automatically resets "on the fly" settings. But I don't want to use them anyway.


Every source has it's own Source Settings, including LF and HF eq.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My unit came with version 1.11e. Apart from beta versions, is this the latest?



No, 1.12r is the latest BETA. 1.11e is also a beta, but a very stable one. I'm surprised that you got a beta loaded in there.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not familiar with their stuff. There IS another surge protection technology, not so common, that doesn't wear out with every surge.
> 
> 
> Somewhere in AVS there's a nice thread detailing all of this. The Search function might be able to locate it.
> 
> --Bob



Furman has been a solid player in the pro audio industry for many years. Their products don't self-destruct like cheaper surge protectors. Not when it's needed day in day out!


You will find Furman on stages and in studios around the world. Recently they have moved into home theater and repackaged their products for higher visual appeal/spouse acceptance factor, with a corresponding higher price tag.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just installed my D2. Here are some questions/comments:
> 
> 
> I assume, like any other piece of audio electronics, the sound will improve as the unit burns in?
> 
> 
> I was disappointed that Anthem doesn't support 4th order crossover for speakers. Any chance they'll add this?
> 
> 
> I was also disappointed that I couldn't use the super' sub option along with the advanced crossover settings to specify a different crossover frequency per speaker. It seems you can only do this if you agree to cross over all speakers at the same freq. Am I missing something?
> 
> 
> Running my PS3 to output 1080p/24, the Anthem converts it to 1080p/60. If I tell the Anthem to output 1080p/24 it drops frames (a slow motion effect). Is there a way to do this properly?
> 
> 
> Is it normal to receive two remotes? Every once in a while the Anthem seems to ignore one and I have to use the other. I've swapped back and forth a number of times trying to get the Anthem to respond. Known issue by any chance?
> 
> 
> Adjusting treble on the fly seems to be result in the setting being stored (rather than just temporary). I find this surprising. I might be somewhat biased coming from a Theta Casablanca where one could make temporary audio adjustments (e.g. to deal with a specific movie) without having to worry about those settings sticking around, but it seems to me that permanent modifications should be done within a setup menu and on-the-fly settings just be temporary.
> 
> 
> More on the bass/treble adjustment: you can modify treble for all channels, or you can adjust separately for the fronts/center/rears etc. When you have the global' treble boosted and also boost the fronts, is it cumulative?
> 
> 
> I was surprised how light the unit was - especially given how many features are packed into this thing.
> 
> 
> My unit came with version 1.11e. Apart from beta versions, is this the latest?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance. I'm sure I'll have more questions and comments as I experiment further.



Your dealer may have installed V1.11e for you (a good thing). As best I know, all units leaving the factory are still going out with original V1.11 installed. Original V1.11 is still the version available for download from the Anthem web site.


The latest Beta software we've had reports on here is V1.12r. It's looking pretty good and we expect it to turn into a "real" release quite soon now. That version, among other things, fixes the 1080p/24 input to output stuttering you've experienced with the PS3.


We've had no reports that I can recall of the D2's audio qualities changing during "burn in".


The Anthem is speced as 4th order filters for the low pass (to the subwoofer) and 2nd order for the high pass (to small, main speakers). I doubt this will change.


I haven't played with the "super" sub setting -- I'm not fond of it myself. Your question on cross-over settings would probably have to go to Anthem tech support.


It is normal to receive two remotes. The Anthem remotes are universal remotes in the sense that they can control other devices as well such as a DVD player. The buttons at the top of the remote tell the remote which device you now want the remote to control next. Do not confuse these with the buttons at the BOTTOM of the remote which select which source device you want to listen to.


In addition, the Anthem itself is like three different devices all in one box, each of which the remote can be set to control. It is very common for new users to get confused by this. If the remote appears to not be functioning properly, try pressing the Main button in the green section at the top of the remote to tell the remote you want it to control the Main signal path of the Anthem. Then see if the remote is now working as you expected.


It is my understanding that the audio adjustments available from the remote, such as Bass and Treble, are saved per input and per audio format coming from that input (i.e., DD5.1 vs. stereo). If you want to return all of those settings to their defaults all at once the procedure is as follows:


* Go to where you can see the Front Panel display of the Anthem.


* Go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings.


* Perform a Save User Settings


* Perform a Reload Factory Defaults. This may lose your TV display, but you will still see what's happening on the Front Panel display.


* Perform a Restore User Settings


This returns all the "temporary" settings -- Manual sections 4.6 and 4.7 -- to their defaults.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> 
> I've just received the D2 and have a question on the proper setup to dial in the display's color, contrast, brightness, tint, etc. After re-reading the calibration threads, I'm confused on whether you are using the D2 or plasma to set up the display's settings. The calibration pages basically tells you to set up all the display's settings to the default settings and remove any video or image enhancements. Also remove any vivid or game picture modes, etc. I then suspect that all the rest of the adjustments will be done using the D2's video source adjust found under the 7 button. This is so that the D2 will be doing all of the video processing?
> 
> 
> My question is that under the video source adjust for the D2, I can't really dial in a good brightness, contrast, color settings using their color bar test patterns. I can get more adjustments using my plasma's color controls. I've also have a DVE cd and using the color filters, I can get a better calibration using the plasma's controls over the D2. So am I suppose to use the plasma's controls to adjust color, contrast, brightness, sharpness, etc? Or should I retry and attempt to use only the D2's controls under the video source adjustments to get the picture calibrated and reset my plasma back to the minimal settings?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve



Using the D2 test patterns, make adjustments on your plasma for Brightness (aka Black Level), Contrast (aka White Level), Color and Tint (someties called Hue???). Turn off all the other processing you can find. Once things look good, then LEAVE the plasma settings - make no further changes on the plasma. This is calibrating your display (plasma) to the test patterns, which you only need to do once.


You can then make adjustments PER SOURCE in the Source Video Settings menu - for example, your DVD player and your cable STB may need slightly different settings to make the resultant picture consistent whether you are viewing TV or a movie. Use (for example) AVIA to get the DVD settings to conform to what you saw when you were only looking at raw test patterns from the D2. For TV, you might need a cable test pattern - there is info on this in the calibration sub-thread.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> 
> I've just received the D2 and have a question on the proper setup to dial in the display's color, contrast, brightness, tint, etc. After re-reading the calibration threads, I'm confused on whether you are using the D2 or plasma to set up the display's settings. The calibration pages basically tells you to set up all the display's settings to the default settings and remove any video or image enhancements. Also remove any vivid or game picture modes, etc. I then suspect that all the rest of the adjustments will be done using the D2's video source adjust found under the 7 button. This is so that the D2 will be doing all of the video processing?
> 
> 
> My question is that under the video source adjust for the D2, I can't really dial in a good brightness, contrast, color settings using their color bar test patterns. I can get more adjustments using my plasma's color controls. I've also have a DVE cd and using the color filters, I can get a better calibration using the plasma's controls over the D2. So am I suppose to use the plasma's controls to adjust color, contrast, brightness, sharpness, etc? Or should I retry and attempt to use only the D2's controls under the video source adjustments to get the picture calibrated and reset my plasma back to the minimal settings?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve



Steve, re-read the "video calibration for non-ISF techs" post linked in the first post of this thread.


You do, indeed use your display's own controls.


Setting them to the mid-point values is just a starting point to get rid of the usual problems found in the factory default settings for many displays. It makes it faster to get to the right values once you start adjusting things.


Prep your TV as described, then, using the test charts internally generated in the Anthem, use THE TV'S LEVEL CONTROLS to properly set the TV to display those test charts. This is independent of any source devices.


Then, for each source device in turn, use THE ANTHEM'S INPUT LEVEL CONTROLS to fine tune things for that source device. Note that adjusting the Anthem's level controls won't alter the Anthem's test charts. Those charts are generated AFTER the input video adjustments in the Anthem for each source. That means you need a DIFFERENT way of getting test charts up when fine tuning for each source. Typically for a DVD player you will use a calibration DVD for example. Again this is discussed in that calibration post.


So it's a two stage process. First you use the TV's controls to adjust the TV to best display the video output from the Anthem -- as evidenced by the Anthem's own test charts. The TV level settings you end up with will be used for ALL of your source devices played through the Anthem, because it is the Anthem's job to convert their source video to the Anthem's output video as represented by the Anthem's test charts.


Then you use the Anthem's INPUT controls to adjust for variations between any of your source devices -- as evidenced by test charts coming from each source device in turn (i.e., a calibration DVD or a test pattern program from a TV channel).

--Bob


----------



## Ian_Currie

Just for the record, my dealer did not install 1.11e. It clearly states on the D2 box that it has version 1.11e installed.


Thanks for the replies.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FredHooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The original technology was by ZeroSurge_com (I use it for my pc); it was adapted for audio and video uses by pricewheeler_com in their Brick Wall units.



Yes. The Brick Wall stuff is the stuff I was thinking of.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just for the record, my dealer did not install 1.11e. It clearly states on the D2 box that it has version 1.11e installed.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the replies.



This is unusual, but not bad news at all. The V1.11e version is a very good place to be until the next "real" software release is made. I've been puzzled why Anthem didn't start doing this sooner.


We had one other report of a customer receiving a unit with V1.11e pre-installed but that was in Europe, and we assumed it was something the European distributor did.

--Bob


----------



## shn750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just for the record, my dealer did not install 1.11e. It clearly states on the D2 box that it has version 1.11e installed.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the replies.




Guys,


I just got my D2 over the weekend and it also came pre-installed with 1.11e.


Steve


----------



## budeone

I just bought a DVP-NS9100ES/B and I need to hook it up to my AVM-50. I was looking for the best settings for the player and the 50.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> 
> I just got my D2 over the weekend and it also came pre-installed with 1.11e.
> 
> 
> Steve



Okey doke. Again, this is good news. There have been some important bug fixes in the test software releases after V1.11e, but V1.11e is a fine place to be for the moment. If you don't run into a specific problem that you have an urgent need to fix, I'd just keep an eye on this thread waiting for the next "real" release.

--bob


----------



## dseliger

One strange thing happening on my new D2, i power it on...it fires up then when it "clicks" it then powers off immediately.


I power it right back on and it works fine.


This has happened about 4 times now after its been off for multiple hours.


I did a search through this thread and cant nail it down as a bug...anyone have any ideas?


I've emailed trying to get the lastest beta code but havent heard back yet, having an HDMI issue that i beleive was resolved in the latest beta code.


Thanks


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One strange thing happening on my new D2, i power it on...it fires up then when it "clicks" it then powers off immediately.
> 
> 
> I power it right back on and it works fine.
> 
> 
> This has happened about 4 times now after its been off for multiple hours.
> 
> 
> I did a search through this thread and cant nail it down as a bug...anyone have any ideas?
> 
> 
> I've emailed trying to get the lastest beta code but havent heard back yet, having an HDMI issue that i beleive was resolved in the latest beta code.
> 
> 
> Thanks



What firmware rev are you running? I've seen this once or twice recently but it's only after loading 1.12q upgrading from 1.11.


larry


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One strange thing happening on my new D2, i power it on...it fires up then when it "clicks" it then powers off immediately.
> 
> 
> I power it right back on and it works fine.
> 
> 
> This has happened about 4 times now after its been off for multiple hours.
> 
> 
> I did a search through this thread and cant nail it down as a bug...anyone have any ideas?
> 
> 
> I've emailed trying to get the lastest beta code but havent heard back yet, having an HDMI issue that i beleive was resolved in the latest beta code.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Are you using any of the triggers? If so, try disconnecting them and see if that fixes the problem....


Email address for the software ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One strange thing happening on my new D2, i power it on...it fires up then when it "clicks" it then powers off immediately.
> 
> 
> I power it right back on and it works fine.
> 
> 
> This has happened about 4 times now after its been off for multiple hours.
> 
> 
> I did a search through this thread and cant nail it down as a bug...anyone have any ideas?
> 
> 
> I've emailed trying to get the lastest beta code but havent heard back yet, having an HDMI issue that i beleive was resolved in the latest beta code.
> 
> 
> Thanks



There's no known bug related to this.


First go into Setup / Set Time and Timers and confirm that All Timers = DISABLED.


The next time you've had the D2 sitting unused for a while, try powering it up using the front panel button instead of the remote. This will eliminate the possibility that it is getting multiple remote commands and interpreting one of them as Power Off. If it doesn't power cycle, then look to your remote control setup. If you are using a programmable remote, or wired remote repeaters then there could be problems with that, or you could even have a remote control conflict where a command directed to some other device is being read by the D2 as a Power Off command.


If it still power cycles even when not using the remote, then it sounds as if it has got a power problem.


The next thing to do is to figure out if the problem is in the D2 itself or has some external cause. First go into Setup / Save and Restore Settings and do a Save User Settings (so you can Restore them easily later), and then a Reload Factory Defaults. Now power down and disconnect everything from the D2. Move the D2 to a different location so that it is on a different wall power circuit. Let the D2 sit as necessary and then try turning it on. If it still power cycles then you have a hardware fault in the D2. Call Anthem tech support. They will likely need to swap out your D2.


However if it doesn't exhibit the problem all on its own, then either you have a problem with the wall power you are feeding the D2 or there is some other drain on the D2 through one or more connections to it that is causing it to be unhappy.


The wall power could be the problem if you have too many devices on that circuit and the voltage is dropping -- particularly if the devices are all turning on at once. If you are turning on multiple devices at once, try to add additional time delay between when they each power on.


Connections could be a problem if any wire or socket is shorted. It only takes one loose hair of wire to short things. It is also possible to put too much drain on the D2's "trigger" outputs.


Also double check all your input to output connections to make sure everything is plugged into the right place. Plugging an output into an output is easy to do by mistake if you have multiple connections between devices, some of which you don't usually use. If you are using any "Y" cables or signal splitters, there are also easy mistakes you can make here. Try operating without such signal splitters, and if the problem goes away, then re-think what you are doing with them -- for example to make sure you haven't unwittingly connected an output of one device to an output of another by joining them through a Y cable to a single input.


Unless something obvious presents itself, there's nothing for it but to reconnect things a little bit at a time, in some logical fashion, until you isolate which combination of devices/connections is causing the D2 to be unhappy.

--Bob


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you using any of the triggers? If so, try disconnecting them and see if that fixes the problem....
> 
> 
> Email address for the software ?




No triggers hooked up at all.


dseliger at gmail.com, please


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What firmware rev are you running? I've seen this once or twice recently but it's only after loading 1.12q upgrading from 1.11.
> 
> 
> larry




I just got my unit on friday so whatever they are currently shipping...I'll check as soon as i get home.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just bought a DVP-NS9100ES/B and I need to hook it up to my AVM-50. I was looking for the best settings for the player and the 50.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I don't know the details on that player. For example the Sony site doesn't say whether it will output HDMI 480i. But the general guidance for setting up video through the Anthem is written up in the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post -- linked in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## dseliger

I will check the timers as soon as i get home.


I was actually using the front panel to power it on everytime this happened.


Everything is running through a Monster Signature 5100 UHC 20A, the total load is under 10 amps. I'll go ahead and plug it into my second circuit (pulled 2 dedicated 20's to my rack) and see if that makes a difference.


As far as wiring goes, i only have 4 HDMI inputs ,1 output, and the outputs to my amp. No triggers or anything have been connected yet.


I'll give your ideas a shot though and see if i can narrow it down, thank you for all your help. I'll report back with my findings.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There's no known bug related to this.
> 
> 
> First go into Setup / Set Time and Timers and confirm that All Timers = DISABLED.
> 
> 
> The next time you've had the D2 sitting unused for a while, try powering it up using the front panel button instead of the remote. This will eliminate the possibility that it is getting multiple remote commands and interpreting one of them as Power Off. If it doesn't power cycle, then look to your remote control setup. If you are using a programmable remote, or wired remote repeaters then there could be problems with that, or you could even have a remote control conflict where a command directed to some other device is being read by the D2 as a Power Off command.
> 
> 
> If it still power cycles even when not using the remote, then it sounds as if it has got a power problem.
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to figure out if the problem is in the D2 itself or has some external cause. First go into Setup / Save and Restore Settings and do a Save User Settings (so you can Restore them easily later), and then a Reload Factory Defaults. Now power down and disconnect everything from the D2. Move the D2 to a different location so that it is on a different wall power circuit. Let the D2 sit as necessary and then try turning it on. If it still power cycles then you have a hardware fault in the D2. Call Anthem tech support. They will likely need to swap out your D2.
> 
> 
> However if it doesn't exhibit the problem all on its own, then either you have a problem with the wall power you are feeding the D2 or there is some other drain on the D2 through one or more connections to it that is causing it to be unhappy.
> 
> 
> The wall power could be the problem if you have too many devices on that circuit and the voltage is dropping -- particularly if the devices are all turning on at once. If you are turning on multiple devices at once, try to add additional time delay between when they each power on.
> 
> 
> Connections could be a problem if any wire or socket is shorted. It only takes one loose hair of wire to short things. It is also possible to put too much drain on the D2's "trigger" outputs.
> 
> 
> Also double check all your input to output connections to make sure everything is plugged into the right place. Plugging an output into an output is easy to do by mistake if you have multiple connections between devices, some of which you don't usually use. If you are using any "Y" cables or signal splitters, there are also easy mistakes you can make here. Try operating without such signal splitters, and if the problem goes away, then re-think what you are doing with them -- for example to make sure you haven't unwittingly connected an output of one device to an output of another by joining them through a Y cable to a single input.
> 
> 
> Unless something obvious presents itself, there's nothing for it but to reconnect things a little bit at a time, in some logical fashion, until you isolate which combination of devices/connections is causing the D2 to be unhappy.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Melgon

Here is the answer I received from Gennum:



Thanks for bringing this issue to our attention. Conveniently, we have

just

received copies of the Silicon Optix HQV HD Benchmark disc and have

been

able to confirm your findings - i.e. VXP not locking to the 3:2 cadence

demonstrated in the "Film Resolution Loss Test".


By the way I must add, and hope you agree, that VXP has no problem

locking

to the "Film Resolution Loss Test - Stadium" sequence. This leads to a

point

I would like to make which is when developing and optimising VXP we

have

focused on the use of "real" content rather than test patterns that may

not

necessarily be representative of the real world.


One can always create a test pattern or sequence which can be

demonstrated

to break someone else's processing!


Having said that, due to the power and flexibility (and feedback from

users

such as you!) we are able to further optimise VXP to ensure sequences

such

as this one can be correctly processed without compromise to any other

processing.


I am happy to inform you that we have been able to do just that and

have

found more optimal default settings for our film cadence detection.


We will be making our customers aware of these new settings and also

making

these the default in future releases of VXP firmware.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Melgon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I already sent Nick an e-mail describing the problem. I also e-mailed Gennum tech support to hear what they have to say ... let's see what happens next.
> 
> I would continue to use my "old" SO scaler, however the darn thing does not pass 6-channel PCM over HDMI (only 2 channels).
> 
> 
> Helmut


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Melgon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is the answer I received from Gennum:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for bringing this issue to our attention. Conveniently, we have
> 
> just
> 
> received copies of the Silicon Optix HQV HD Benchmark disc and have
> 
> been
> 
> able to confirm your findings - i.e. VXP not locking to the 3:2 cadence
> 
> demonstrated in the "Film Resolution Loss Test".
> 
> 
> By the way I must add, and hope you agree, that VXP has no problem
> 
> locking
> 
> to the "Film Resolution Loss Test - Stadium" sequence. This leads to a
> 
> point
> 
> I would like to make which is when developing and optimising VXP we
> 
> have
> 
> focused on the use of "real" content rather than test patterns that may
> 
> not
> 
> necessarily be representative of the real world.
> 
> 
> One can always create a test pattern or sequence which can be
> 
> demonstrated
> 
> to break someone else's processing!
> 
> 
> Having said that, due to the power and flexibility (and feedback from
> 
> users
> 
> such as you!) we are able to further optimise VXP to ensure sequences
> 
> such
> 
> as this one can be correctly processed without compromise to any other
> 
> processing.
> 
> 
> I am happy to inform you that we have been able to do just that and
> 
> have
> 
> found more optimal default settings for our film cadence detection.
> 
> 
> We will be making our customers aware of these new settings and also
> 
> making
> 
> these the default in future releases of VXP firmware.



Wow, that's good news, and hopefully Anthem will adjust accordingly, as long as it doesn't throw anything else out whack.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow, that's good news, and hopefully Anthem will adjust accordingly, as long as it doesn't throw anything else out whack.



Yep. I wonder how long it will take to actually see the end result of this?


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One strange thing happening on my new D2, i power it on...it fires up then when it "clicks" it then powers off immediately.
> 
> 
> I power it right back on and it works fine.
> 
> 
> This has happened about 4 times now after its been off for multiple hours.
> 
> 
> I did a search through this thread and cant nail it down as a bug...anyone have any ideas?
> 
> 
> I've emailed trying to get the lastest beta code but havent heard back yet, having an HDMI issue that i beleive was resolved in the latest beta code.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Well - as it turns out, this is a known problem (a least to Nick and myself







). It is very much better in 1.12q and 1.12r (or so it appears). It happened to me every time until 1.12q (it happened once there - none so far with r). I think only one other person besides myself has reported a similar issue here in this long thread (but it was slightly different). I have the proper equipment and verified my power (no sags, no spikes), and passed the info to Nick. If you want to avoid it there are 3 ways I know of. You can turn off the power in the back (it never happens from a totally cold start). You can get 1.12r (and it will at least be very much reduced). Or, if you turn the volume down just right as the power comes up, that sometimes does it (ah, the old interrupt trick)







. I would ask Nick for the latest and see if he sends it. Of course YMMV (since it might not be the same thing). I have not been vocal about it since it's only an annoyance (well mostly), and they have much more important things to work on right now







.


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well - as it turns out, this is a known problem (a least to Nick and myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). It is very much better in 1.12q and 1.12r (or so it appears). It happened to me every time until 1.12q (it happened once there - none so far with r). I think only one other person besides myself has reported a similar issue here in this long thread (but it was slightly different). I have the proper equipment and verified my power (no sags, no spikes), and passed the info to Nick. If you want to avoid it there are 3 ways I know of. You can turn off the power in the back (it never happens from a totally cold start). You can get 1.12r (and it will at least be very much reduced). Or, if you turn the volume down just right as the power comes up, that sometimes does it (ah, the old interrupt trick)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would ask Nick for the latest and see if he sends it. Of course YMMV (since it might not be the same thing). I have not been vocal about it since it's only an annoyance (well mostly), and they have much more important things to work on right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .




Funny you bring this problem up..


At our A/V store we have the same power up problem.. If we turn in on, it will shut off right after,, sometimes, when the HDMI epson projector is turned on after the D2, the D2 will shut off..


Must try new firmware to see if this fixes the problem...


----------



## jluloff

Bob Pariseau -


I am having the same problem with my AVM50 (1.11e was installed) shutting off after it is turned on. It turns on, then clicks and shuts off before it triggers amps. If i hit main again then it turns on then triggers the amps and all is fine. It seems to work then fien if power off and turn back on it fine. It seems only when sitting for a while and the initial power up. It's has been pissing me off and neither myself or the folks doing my home theater have been able to figure out. How low from 120v could cause this problem? This happens when using the remote and also when hitting front panel main button.


Dealer is getting me a new AVM50 but I still dont know if its that or something else. I guess if I get the new unit and it continues then will have to look elsewhere for the problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well one of the fun things about being active in a thread like this is that unusual problems get aired out, and, more often than not, actually FIXED!


Those of you who are having the unexpected power down at power up problem should contact Anthem tech support so that they can verify with you whether new software fixes the problem.


The update from Gennum is also interesting. I'm certainly curious what they had to change in their default settings to pass the HQV test -- and whether the HQV test might have been specifically constructed to cause this problem. Without having even looked at this once, my guess would be that the HQV test did something which kept the VXP processor from detecting film mode.


Again, there are other tests which demonstrate that the VXP processor *IS* doing proper film de-interlacing (1080i to 1080p) with typical film based content.


But what the heck, a fix is a fix, and it certainly sounds like Gennum has a proper response in mind to the HQV test pattern. It should not be difficult for Anthem to incorporate this. I don't know about how rapidly the RS1 might get fixed.


Frankly I'm much more concerned about 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 processing with film based content. That should be solved by now.


All that said, Helmut you need to discuss your "soft" image results with Anthem tech support as well. There could be an entirely separate bug that needs to be fixed, or it could be resolved by these Gennum adjustments.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> and whether the HQV test might have been specifically constructed to cause this problem.



Oh Oh Oh Bob







Now you are sounding like the DONUT MAN


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okey doke. Again, this is good news. There have been some important bug fixes in the test software releases after V1.11e, but V1.11e is a fine place to be for the moment. If you don't run into a specific problem that you have an urgent need to fix, I'd just keep an eye on this thread waiting for the next "real" release.
> 
> --bob



Bob,


I spoke with my dealer today and he said my D2 had been received







. He is coming to do the install (and a few other things) on Thursday. I'll check the unit to see what version of firmware is installed.


If I remember correctly, I've been waiting about 4-5 weeks for the delivery.


Buddy


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just installed my D2. Here are some questions/comments:
> 
> Running my PS3 to output 1080p/24, the Anthem converts it to 1080p/60. If I tell the Anthem to output 1080p/24 it drops frames (a slow motion effect). Is there a way to do this properly?



I don't have a PS3, but when you tried the 24P did you set frame lock to auto?


----------



## [email protected]

Hey Bob P,

First time posting to this thread. Hope this works. Thanks for all the info, I have really learned alot. I still have some questions that maybe you can help me with.


I have a DirectV HR10-250 connected via HDMI and a Denon 2900 DvD player connected via component to my AVM-50. From the AVM-50 to a Sharp LC-32D5U I am connected using HDMI (DVI-Gear). When I set the t.v.'s native resolution (1366 x 768 x 3 dots confirmed by Sharp) into the AVM50 I can't seem to get a picture. When I set the output resolution from the AVM-50 to 1920 x 1080i I get a picture with no problems. However, when I set the output resolution to 1280 x 720p It seems to work for a short time maybe 30 minutes and then I lose the picture. This has happened to me while I was watching a DvD. What should my resolution be set from the Directv HR10-250. Any suggestions?


Something else I find odd is when I am watching a DvD, if I go into the setup menu to change anything and then back out of the menu I lose my picture. To restore it I have to open the disc tray from the DvD player and then close it to restore the connection. Whats weird, is this happens with most of my Dvd's except for a few (Shrek). I tried this with a friends DvD player Denon 2910 and I lost the picture but all I had to do to restore the video was to press stop and then hit play. So far this has not happened while I was watching t.v.. If I change from Dvd while watching a movie to satelite and then back to DvD I lose the video. What gives?


I have received the 1.11g software do you think this will help with the above problem? Nick sent this version of the software because I also reported the Component 480i bug.

Can't figure it out.


German


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bob P,
> 
> First time posting to this thread. Hope this works. Thanks for all the info, I have really learned alot. I still have some questions that maybe you can help me with.
> 
> 
> I have a DirectV HR10-250 connected via HDMI and a Denon 2900 DvD player connected via component to my AVM-50. From the AVM-50 to a Sharp LC-32D5U I am connected using HDMI (DVI-Gear). When I set the t.v.'s native resolution (1366 x 768 x 3 dots confirmed by Sharp) into the AVM50 I can't seem to get a picture. When I set the output resolution from the AVM-50 to 1920 x 1080i I get a picture with no problems. However, when I set the output resolution to 1280 x 720p It seems to work for a short time maybe 30 minutes and then I lose the picture. This has happened to me while I was watching a DvD. What should my resolution be set from the Directv HR10-250. Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Something else I find odd is when I am watching a DvD, if I go into the setup menu to change anything and then back out of the menu I lose my picture. To restore it I have to open the disc tray from the DvD player and then close it to restore the connection. Whats weird, is this happens with most of my Dvd's except for a few (Shrek). I tried this with a friends DvD player Denon 2910 and I lost the picture but all I had to do to restore the video was to press stop and then hit play. So far this has not happened while I was watching t.v.. If I change from Dvd while watching a movie to satelite and then back to DvD I lose the video. What gives?
> 
> 
> I have received the 1.11g software do you think this will help with the above problem? Nick sent this version of the software because I also reported the Component 480i bug.
> 
> Can't figure it out.
> 
> 
> German



First of all, yes, you should definitely do as Nick suggested and install the V1.11g software and see what, if any, of your problems remain.


This software could be a great help with the Component video from your DVD player.


Second, this software will eliminate any possiblity that you are having the infamous 1080i video bug.


Second, not all TVs will actually accept their "native" resolution as a valid input resolution. You Sharp may very well be 1366x768p "native", but its video input may only be willing to accept 720p or 1080i (which the TV then scales to 768p). If your Sharp IS supposed to be able to accept 1366x768p as an input resolution, it may need special video timings, as is the case with the Panasonic 768p panels. The Anthem has the ability to have you define a "custom" resolution to solve this (using the Live Video Settings Editor Windows PC application), but figuring out the correct settings is not easy.


Another possibility is that you may need to try the other setting of Setup / Video Output / HDMI Sync. If you can't get HDMI video to display at an Anthem output resolution that's supposed to work with your display, or if you get an image but it is shifted horizontally by a significant amount (1/3 of the screen say), then the other of the 2 Sync choices may fix the problem.


Another possiblity is that you may need to upgrade and/or shorten the HDMI cable to your display -- and possibly also the HDMI cable from the HR10-250. Also make sure that all the HDMI plugs are fully inserted straight into their sockets with no stress pulling them in any direction.


---------------------------------------------------


The video resolution from your DVD player to the Anthem should be Component 480i.


The video resolution from the HR10-250 to the Anthem should, ideally, be the same as what's coming in on each channel you tune to. For the SDTV channels that will always be HDMI 480i. For the HDTV channels that will either by HDMI 720p or HDMI 1080i depending on the program content at the moment. Unless they've made a change to the HR10-250 software since I last looked at it, there is not a mode to make it do this automatically for you. But you can change HR10-250 output resolutions manually using its remote. If you don't feel like changing resolutions manually, leave the HR10-250 set on HDMI 1080i output, since most HDTV programs are broadcast as 1080i and since HDTV is really what you want to look best.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Melgon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is the answer I received from Gennum:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for bringing this issue to our attention. Conveniently, we have
> 
> just
> 
> received copies of the Silicon Optix HQV HD Benchmark disc and have
> 
> been
> 
> able to confirm your findings - i.e. VXP not locking to the 3:2 cadence
> 
> demonstrated in the "Film Resolution Loss Test".
> 
> 
> By the way I must add, and hope you agree, that VXP has no problem
> 
> locking
> 
> to the "Film Resolution Loss Test - Stadium" sequence. This leads to a
> 
> point
> 
> I would like to make which is when developing and optimising VXP we
> 
> have
> 
> focused on the use of "real" content rather than test patterns that may
> 
> not
> 
> necessarily be representative of the real world.
> 
> 
> One can always create a test pattern or sequence which can be
> 
> demonstrated
> 
> to break someone else's processing!
> 
> 
> Having said that, due to the power and flexibility (and feedback from
> 
> users
> 
> such as you!) we are able to further optimise VXP to ensure sequences
> 
> such
> 
> as this one can be correctly processed without compromise to any other
> 
> processing.
> 
> 
> I am happy to inform you that we have been able to do just that and
> 
> have
> 
> found more optimal default settings for our film cadence detection.
> 
> 
> We will be making our customers aware of these new settings and also
> 
> making
> 
> these the default in future releases of VXP firmware.



This is the main issue I have with test disks. Now that Gennum have the disk they will ensure it wills pas all the tests on that disk. Are we getting a better product out of this?


I seriously drought it will make our scaler better. Meanwhile, we will be passing all the tests.


I could even go a step further, the VPX was optimized in a certain way and to pass the test something may be broken or un-optimized. Again, we are passing all tests but may end-up with a degraded product.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The update from Gennum is also interesting. I'm certainly curious what they had to change in their default settings to pass the HQV test -- and whether the HQV test might have been specifically constructed to cause this problem. Without having even looked at this once, my guess would be that the HQV test did something which kept the VXP processor from detecting film mode.
> 
> 
> Frankly I'm much more concerned about 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 processing with film based content. That should be solved by now.



Exactly, SO may have invested lots of efforts playing with a Gennum based product to come up with such a test. I would rather have Gennum focusing on added value instead spending efforts to pass this test. Meanwhile, lots of peoples are using these tests without knowing what they meant and not passing a test will sadly crate a lot noise for SO to manage. I certainly understand their need to pass that test.


----------



## [email protected]

Bob,

Thanks for the info.

My HDMI cable running to the t.v. from the AVM50 is only 3 feet long. The HDMI cable running from the HR10-250 is also 3 feet long. Any suggestions as to who you would recommend purchasing new HDMI cables from?


How would you go about trying to find the correct output resolution using the Live video settings editor. Thanks again


German


----------



## abc999

1.12q and 1.12r are not working for me. Can anybody send me 1.11e to test. I can't get the original 1.11 to load on my AvM50. [email protected]


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> 
> My HDMI cable running to the t.v. from the AVM50 is only 3 feet long. The HDMI cable running from the HR10-250 is also 3 feet long. Any suggestions as to who you would recommend purchasing new HDMI cables from?
> 
> 
> How would you go about trying to find the correct output resolution using the Live video settings editor. Thanks again
> 
> 
> German



Monoprice, Blue Jeans, and Ultralink cables have had good reports here.


Read the links in the first post in this thread about frame rates and custom resolutions to get some idea what the custom resolution parameters mean. Then do a search in the Video Processors forum here to see if anyone has come up with parameters for Sharp 768p displays for any of the stand-alone scaler products such as the VP-50. If you are lucky, someone has already done the work.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1.12q and 1.12r are not working for me. Can anybody send me 1.11e to test. I can't get the original 1.11 to load on my AvM50. [email protected]hoo.com



I don't have AVM50 software to send you (the AVM50 and D2 have different installer files). But what problems are you having with V1.12r?

--Bob


----------



## Ian_Currie

Quick question on using the Toshiba XA2 with the D2:


When playing a TrueHD soundtrack, is it better to monitor the XA2's analog outs or use HDMI?


I've just been using HDMI and the sound has been, well, not quite what I expected. Wondering if I'm missing something here...


----------



## FilmMixer

^^ Could you be more specific? HDMI is the preferred method, but you need to make sure that all Bass Management and dynamic compression in the XA2 is off.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question on using the Toshiba XA2 with the D2:
> 
> 
> When playing a TrueHD soundtrack, is it better to monitor the XA2's analog outs or use HDMI?
> 
> 
> I've just been using HDMI and the sound has been, well, not quite what I expected. Wondering if I'm missing something here...



You should use HDMI.


Also check the audio input format. On the D2, press Select multiple times to bring up the various status displays. What you are looking for when playing the TrueHD track is an indication of 6 channels of PCM at 48KHz/24bit.


If you are seeing DTS then you need to correct the XA2's audio output setting to send PCM.


If you are seeing 96KHz then you likely need to correct the XA2's optical output setting to not upsample the output to 96KHz (since virtually all TrueHD tracks right now are actually 48KHz). For reasons known only to Toshiba that setting mistakenly also alters the HDMI output, and does it badly.


Other folks using the XA2 here may have additional advice on settings in the XA2 or XA2 firmware upgrades that you might need.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question on using the Toshiba XA2 with the D2:
> 
> 
> When playing a TrueHD soundtrack, is it better to monitor the XA2's analog outs or use HDMI?
> 
> 
> I've just been using HDMI and the sound has been, well, not quite what I expected. Wondering if I'm missing something here...



Ian,


If I recall you are running 1.11e for the D2???


What ver are you running for the XA2???


Peter


Filmmixer and Bob P's advice are an excellent starting points. Is the sound 'emptier' than you expected?


----------



## Ian_Currie

Thanks, Bob. I was looking for some sort of status display on the D2 and couldn't find one. All the front panel said was "5.1" so this will help. I'll also check out what my XA2 settings are.


Peter, yes I'm running 1.11e. As for the XA2, I thought I was up to date, but having just read the HD-DVD Player forum a bit, I may only have 1.5 installed.


----------



## ibg5

At operation of the processor I have collided with such unpleasant effect.

We shall admit, that all installations in the menu of the processor correspond factory, except for installations of quantity of columns and distance up to them.

If at switching-on of a supply of the processor any of inputs SAT, 2-ch or 6-ch arises enough îùóòèìîå hissing in columns is chosen.

If at switching-on of a supply of the processor it is chosen any their inputs of CD, DVD, AUX, TAPE or VCR such noise in columns does not arise. But if to switch the input chosen from specified group on SAT, 2-ch or 6-ch - noise appears. However at return switching an input with SAT, 2-ch or 6-ch on earlier chosen input from group of CD, DVD, AUX, TAPE, VCR this noise does not vanish.

In what business?

I suggest to be convinced of it independently. I hope that you will have the similar result speaking about a system mistake. If is not present - that this property my concrete specimen.

So.

1. Connect to Statement D2, for example, a DVD-player a digital cable. Use, whenever possible, balancing connection of the amplifier or active acoustics (as at me) depending on that is available at you.

2. Use factory adjustments (nothing changing in the menu of adjustment).

3. Include input DVD on Statement D2.

4. Switch off Statement D2 from the board or from the forward panel. The DVD-player should not be included.

5. Include Statement D2.

6. Hissings will not be.

7. Include a feed of a DVD-player.

8. You should hear well marked hissing in columns.

9. Choose any other input. Hissing will not disappear.

Lead other experiment.

1. Choose any input SAT, 2-ch and 6-ch. For example, 6-ch.

2. Switch off Statement D2 from the board or from the forward panel.

3. Include Statement D2.

4. You should hear well marked hissing in columns.

5. Enter into the menu of adjustment.

6. Choose item 5 of the menu.

7. Choose item 5ñ. 6-ch.

8. In item g. Audio In change type of an input with Anlg-DSP on, for example, Dig OPT3.

9. Include Statement D2.

10. Hissings will not be.

11. Further it is possible to choose input DVD and to make manipulation as it is described in p.7 the previous experiment. Further will come p.p. 8 and 9.


I shall be glad to any help in the decision of this problem.

Best regards, ibg5.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob. I was looking for some sort of status display on the D2 and couldn't find one. All the front panel said was "5.1" so this will help. I'll also check out what my XA2 settings are.
> 
> 
> Peter, yes I'm running 1.11e. As for the XA2, I thought I was up to date, but having just read the HD-DVD Player forum a bit, I may only have 1.5 installed.




I am running 1.6......installed without complaint.....drawer sped up and everything seemed to be a wee bit faster. There have been no adverse effects from what I have been able to discover so it is probably recommended. Marc's advice is the first place to look with Bob's to follow. What I don't know is whether there was any fundamental or generational leap fom 1.11(X) to 1.12(X) OR was the numbering scheme totaly without logic or foundation? Bob? Marc?


Peter


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ibg5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> At operation of the processor I have collided with such unpleasant effect.
> 
> We shall admit, that all installations in the menu of the processor correspond factory, except for installations of quantity of columns and distance up to them.
> 
> If at switching-on of a supply of the processor any of inputs SAT, 2-ch or 6-ch arises enough îùóòèìîå hissing in columns is chosen.
> 
> If at switching-on of a supply of the processor it is chosen any their inputs of CD, DVD, AUX, TAPE or VCR such noise in columns does not arise. But if to switch the input chosen from specified group on SAT, 2-ch or 6-ch - noise appears. However at return switching an input with SAT, 2-ch or 6-ch on earlier chosen input from group of CD, DVD, AUX, TAPE, VCR this noise does not vanish.
> 
> In what business?
> 
> I suggest to be convinced of it independently. I hope that you will have the similar result speaking about a system mistake. If is not present - that this property my concrete specimen.
> 
> So.
> 
> 1. Connect to Statement D2, for example, a DVD-player a digital cable. Use, whenever possible, balancing connection of the amplifier or active acoustics (as at me) depending on that is available at you.
> 
> 2. Use factory adjustments (nothing changing in the menu of adjustment).
> 
> 3. Include input DVD on Statement D2.
> 
> 4. Switch off Statement D2 from the board or from the forward panel. The DVD-player should not be included.
> 
> 5. Include Statement D2.
> 
> 6. Hissings will not be.
> 
> 7. Include a feed of a DVD-player.
> 
> 8. You should hear well marked hissing in columns.
> 
> 9. Choose any other input. Hissing will not disappear.
> 
> Lead other experiment.
> 
> 1. Choose any input SAT, 2-ch and 6-ch. For example, 6-ch.
> 
> 2. Switch off Statement D2 from the board or from the forward panel.
> 
> 3. Include Statement D2.
> 
> 4. You should hear well marked hissing in columns.
> 
> 5. Enter into the menu of adjustment.
> 
> 6. Choose item 5 of the menu.
> 
> 7. Choose item 5ñ. 6-ch.
> 
> 8. In item g. Audio In change type of an input with Anlg-DSP on, for example, Dig OPT3.
> 
> 9. Include Statement D2.
> 
> 10. Hissings will not be.
> 
> 11. Further it is possible to choose input DVD and to make manipulation as it is described in p.7 the previous experiment. Further will come p.p. 8 and 9.
> 
> 
> I shall be glad to any help in the decision of this problem.
> 
> Best regards, ibg5.




ibg5,

I think you would be better off to write this in your first language and hope that someone here can translate for you as the auto-translation doesn't seem to work too well.


Peter


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob. I was looking for some sort of status display on the D2 and couldn't find one. All the front panel said was "5.1" so this will help. I'll also check out what my XA2 settings are.
> 
> 
> Peter, yes I'm running 1.11e. As for the XA2, I thought I was up to date, but having just read the HD-DVD Player forum a bit, I may only have 1.5 installed.




Ian.. if you push the middle "Select/Statu" button on the remote (the oval one in the middle) repeatedly, you will see the status on screen.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ibg5,

It is NOT normal for the D2 to produce "hissing" from any input.


We need to know the version of software you are running on your D2. Press Select on the remote and the version will be displayed on the front panel.


We need to know the make and model number of your SAT device and also your DVD device. Some source devices have known problems.


"Hissing" is one possible symptom of a "ground loop". A more common symptom is a loud "Hum", most often heard from the subwoofer or "large" main speakers.


Try disconnecting the feed wire between the wall and the back of your satellite or cable TV receiver box. You will, of course, lose picture and sound from that box. But if that ALSO makes the hissing go away then you have electrical interference coming in on the shield of that feed wire and passing to your other boxes along the shields of the cables connecting them.

--Bob


----------



## ibg5

Bob,

Some convergence on conditions of operation:

Serial number of the processor - 131898. Version software - 1.11. A pressure in a network of 216-225 Volt.

To the processor are connected:

SAT Samsung DSB-B350V - audio Digital Opt1, video - a component;

DVD Pioneer DV-868 AVi - audio Digital Coax DVD, video - HDMI;

CD - Pioneer DV-868 AVi - audio Digital Coax CD;

TV - Pioneer PDP-506XDE it is connected to HDMI to an output of the processor.

The processor is used with active acoustics Genelec HT208B and subwoofer Genelec HTS4B, using balancing connection. The length of cables does not exceed 8 m. All cables - Supra.

Tried all accessible ways: full switching-off of ALL initial sources, connection through a regenerator, and also connection in other house. I corresponded with Nick from service of technical support - it could not tell anything clear.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ibg5,

Ground loop and interference power can travel between devices even when they are turned off. All it takes is any metal cable going from device to device. The power is not travelling on the signal wire inside the cable, but rather on the ground shield of the cable.


Check out the first post in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=322698 


Be sure to try the test I mentioned before -- disconnect the cable TV or satellite TV feed line from the back of your cable TV or satellite TV receiver to see if the noise goes away.


Also read the EMI/RFI portion of the first post of that thread. Note the warning about halogen lamps, dimmer switches, refrigerators and such generating "hiss" noise inteference. Turn off all such stuff and see if the noise goes away. If so, turn the dimmers (or whatever) back on one at a time until you find the problem.


The simplest first test is to take the unit to a different location (back to the dealer for example) and see if it produces the noise there as well. If so, the Anthem likely needs service.

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

Dudes,


I have a huge problem now, I tried installing both 1.12q and r both ended with my computer going to a blue screen and restarting when the memory flashing was verifying itself. Now the D2 wont even show a picture or produce any sound. when I turn it on, it comes on as normal without sound and pic though, and then when I select an input it goes blank on the face and only 4 lights are left illuminated. Then about 4 min later the display comes back on and the process repeats itself. I am running windows vista now and I have to get some special drivers for the serial to usb adapter, because vista blows @$$! Does anyone have any thing they can suggest to me? Thanks. Rob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Dudes,
> 
> 
> I have a huge problem now, I tried installing both 1.12q and r both ended with my computer going to a blue screen and restarting when the memory flashing was verifying itself. Now the D2 wont even show a picture or produce any sound. when I turn it on, it comes on as normal without sound and pic though, and then when I select an input it goes blank on the face and only 4 lights are left illuminated. Then about 4 min later the display comes back on and the process repeats itself. I am running windows vista now and I have to get some special drivers for the serial to usb adapter, because vista blows @$$! Does anyone have any thing they can suggest to me? Thanks. Rob



Rob.. you need to speak with Nick at Anthem. I suppose that he is going to send you the flash eraser (to reset the unit back to square one) and he might suggest a certain usb to serial connector.. he recommended the iogear one to me.


Also, although it shouldn't be a problem, you might need to install using XP instead of Vista... I have had the same problem with the installer crashing on a virtual pc, so I think you are going to need a PC with XP.. just my .02.


----------



## Ian_Currie

How do you get any video modifications to take effect? Holding down ON SCREEN on the remote and playing with any of the settings in there (other than test pattern) doesn't change anything on screen.


I went in here to experiment with vertical stretch (in anticipation of my anamorphic lens which I've ordered), but I can't manage to effect any changes.


What am I missing?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you get any video modifications to take effect? Holding down ON SCREEN on the remote and playing with any of the settings in there (other than test pattern) doesn't change anything on screen.
> 
> 
> I went in here to experiment with vertical stretch (in anticipation of my anamorphic lens which I've ordered), but I can't manage to effect any changes.
> 
> 
> What am I missing?



You probably just misunderstand what the settings do. Try this.


Start up any video source through the Main signal path (i.e., video that is being processed through the Anthem scaler to the Main outputs).


Press and hold the "7" key to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. Go to Video Source Adjust / Scale Out and select Letter/Pillar Box.


Use the Back button to exit the Scale Out panel.


Now go to Video Source Adjust / Crop Input, scroll down to Custom Setting and press Select to choose it. Then press the right arrow to move into those settings. Now scroll down to Vertical Size and press select again to select that setting for modification. Now press the left arrow quite a few times to reduce the Vertical Size setting significantly.


As you do so you will lose part of the image top and bottom and it will be replaced with Letter Box bars top and bottom to pad things out to the full height of your display (as defined by your Setup / Video Output resolution).


Now use the Back button several times to exit the Crop Input panel.


Then go back into Video Source Adjust / Scale Out and select Anamorphic. You will notice the image now fills your screen top to bottom (no Letter Box bars anymore) but you have still lost some of the image off the top and bottom. Go back into Video Source Adjust / Crop Input / Custom / Vertical Size and return it to its maximum value to get back all of the image.


-------------------------------------------------------


By reducing Crop Input / Custom / Vertical Size you have cropped the image to a subset of its vertical size -- discarding the portions above and below the crop. The portion of the image that remains is the center of the image because you haven't also changed Crop Input / Custom / Vertical Position to re-center your cropping frame.


However, the vertical resolution sent to your display is still as specified in Setup / Video Output. So since you've cropped down the input image, what happens? Well if you select Scale Out / Letter Pillar Box then the Anthem retains the original shape of the input image (now cropped) and pads the top and bottom with Letter Box bars to fill out the vertical height of your display.


But if you select Scale Out / Anamorphic then the Anthem VERTICALLY STRETCHES the now cropped image vertically to the shape of your display (as specified in Setup / Video Output).


And that's what you need to do for a Constant Height setup.


In short, you crop the input image to select the interesting portion of the movie out of the incoming 16:9 frame of video (i.e., to discard the letter box bars that are already built into that incoming content). Then you scale that cropped subset of the incoming video with uniform vertical stretch (Anamorphic) to fit the resolution of your projector. The result is that your projector sees an image which is full height, but distorted by the vertical stretch. Then your Anamorphic lens undoes that to return the image on the projection screen back to its proper shape.


If you do a horizontal crop, then Anamorphic will do horizontal uniform stretch whereas Letter/Pillar Box will pad the image left and right with Pillar Boxes.


------------------------------------------------------------


For more examples of how to use this stuff, see the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling posts linked in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## dseliger

I went ahead and upgraded to 1.12r and i am no longer having the power off problem on startup. Tried it several times today and no more power offs.


A couple of quick questions:

#1

On the "Output" settings, there are 2 options for output resolution.


If i set 1 to 1080p/60 and 2 to 1080p/24 will it use either setting based on what is is getting from the source? Just wondering if that is why there are 2 options. I've read through some previous posts and this appears to be the case.


#2

I have an XA2 and was wondering what the optimal settings are for them going into the D2 (audio and video), im pretty sure i have it all set properly i just want to double check with someone that is using one. There are a couple things in the menu like Film mode/Auto mode, and the speaker settings that i want to make sure of. Someone mentioned set all speakers to Large on the XA2? Is that right?


#3

I have a Optoma HD81, does anyone have any recommendations on its settings? I'm bypassing its HDMI inputs and want to do all the processing in the D2. I dont want it to reprocess everything that goes back to it before it sends it out to the projector. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.


----------



## Ian_Currie

Thanks, Bob. That helped.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I went ahead and upgraded to 1.12r and i am no longer having the power off problem on startup. Tried it several times today and no more power offs.
> 
> 
> A couple of quick questions:
> 
> #1
> 
> On the "Output" settings, there are 2 options for output resolution.
> 
> 
> If i set 1 to 1080p/60 and 2 to 1080p/24 will it use either setting based on what is is getting from the source? Just wondering if that is why there are 2 options. I've read through some previous posts and this appears to be the case.



On your first question, I haven't installed V1.12 stuff yet, but my understanding is that they simply provided 2 video output setups, much the same as the 2 speaker configuration setups. You get to select which video output setup you wan't associated with each overlayed input when you specify the setup for that input.


If correct, that would still mean the only automatic way to change your video output -- for video processed from any given source -- would be to turn on Frame Lock = Auto for that source. In that case the frame rate (and only the frame rate) specified in your video output setup would be overridden by whatever frame rate was coming in from the source. The output resolution would remain unchanged.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't have AVM50 software to send you (the AVM50 and D2 have different installer files). But what problems are you having with V1.12r?
> 
> --Bob



Coming from a 7 month "no problem" status of the AVM50, it gets frustrating with just 1 firmware upgrade everything is screwed. Maybe ,I left 1 HDMI source on or something. Maybe I did not follow instructions to the letter, but I just can't comprehend that I cannot revert back to my original firmware state without having any problems.


Originally got 1.12q and had it loaded without a hitch. Tried PS3 and watched Dead Man's Chest for less than an hour and the problem started with no signal going to the PJ. After a while it video is on again but only for a minute or so. After fiddling with the switches and some settings after 2 hours, I can't get any video from any source. even the OSD from the CD input were gone. No volume indicator at the bottom of the screen anymore.


Tried to 1.12r and the problems got worse. Tried going back to the original 1.11, loaded only after 10 tries and same problem also. Video can't seem to hold. It will just go out, sometimes returning and on some occasions, not coming back at all. Even if I power down or doing a complete shut off, nothing can get the video back. The weird thing is that even the audio has problems also, when HDMI tries a handshake a high pitch short burst of sound is heard. one of my amps shut down to protect itself. This could damage the tweeter of my speakers.


Have tried more than 50 installs of several updates but to no avail. I can get CD sound via digital Coax though but no video. No install is completed and it says that it cannot load OKI boot loader. That's it after that, the unit shuts off.


Can a Flash eraser help with my problem? I remember in one install the error message was Cannot load OKI loader protect state or something similar to this.


Because of the 12 hr time difference. I can get response from Anthem only after 12 midnight when I am asleep. then when I get up , its night time in your timezone.


----------



## ibg5

Bob,

Very thanks for the help in the decision of a problem.

By your advice I have made following experiment.

From D2 I have disconnected ALL sources and have disconnected them from mains. Has left connected only DVD-player Pioneer DV-868AVi (DV-59AVi). At switched off a DVD-player I include D2. Hissings are not present. At inclusion of a feed of a DVD-player it appears. At switching-off of a DVD-player from mains hissing does not vanish. Further I have disconnected a digital connecting cable from a DVD-player and have connected a player on analog connection, and in the menu 5 I have chosen Analog-Dir. In this case already at inclusion D2 (at the switched off DVD-player) I have heard the same hissing. Specified in the specification for input Analog-Dir a signal-noise 107 dB obviously mismatch that noise level which has my copy D2. Subjectively is approximately 60-65 dB. Very similar, that the specified problem is connected with internal components D2.

Best regards, ibg5.


----------



## thebland

Is it a hiss sound or a high pitched sort of whine?


----------



## Tolstoi

[


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I went ahead and upgraded to 1.12r and i am no longer having the power off problem on startup. Tried it several times today and no more power offs.
> 
> 
> A couple of quick questions:
> 
> #1
> 
> On the "Output" settings, there are 2 options for output resolution.
> 
> 
> If i set 1 to 1080p/60 and 2 to 1080p/24 will it use either setting based on what is is getting from the source? Just wondering if that is why there are 2 options. I've read through some previous posts and this appears to be the case.
> 
> 
> #2
> 
> I have an XA2 and was wondering what the optimal settings are for them going into the D2 (audio and video), im pretty sure i have it all set properly i just want to double check with someone that is using one. There are a couple things in the menu like Film mode/Auto mode, and the speaker settings that i want to make sure of. Someone mentioned set all speakers to Large on the XA2? Is that right?
> 
> 
> #3
> 
> I have a Optoma HD81, does anyone have any recommendations on its settings? I'm bypassing its HDMI inputs and want to do all the processing in the D2. I dont want it to reprocess everything that goes back to it before it sends it out to the projector. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.



#1 Selection between video conf 1 and 2 is not dynamic. For each source you need to define if that source is using video conf 1 or 2. This done in the setup menu for each source. The video conf for the XA2 need to 1080p60 not 1080p24.


#2 You need to ensure the XA2 is not doing any processing on the audio. Set all speakers to large and subwoofer to yes.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ibg5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Very thanks for the help in the decision of a problem.
> 
> By your advice I have made following experiment.
> 
> From D2 I have disconnected ALL sources and have disconnected them from mains. Has left connected only DVD-player Pioneer DV-868AVi (DV-59AVi). At switched off a DVD-player I include D2. Hissings are not present. At inclusion of a feed of a DVD-player it appears. At switching-off of a DVD-player from mains hissing does not vanish. Further I have disconnected a digital connecting cable from a DVD-player and have connected a player on analog connection, and in the menu 5 I have chosen Analog-Dir. In this case already at inclusion D2 (at the switched off DVD-player) I have heard the same hissing. Specified in the specification for input Analog-Dir a signal-noise 107 dB obviously mismatch that noise level which has my copy D2. Subjectively is approximately 60-65 dB. Very similar, that the specified problem is connected with internal components D2.
> 
> Best regards, ibg5.



I use a 59avi myself with my D2 and have no such problem. I see nothing unusual in your software version or source devices to explain this. I can think of no setup error you might have made that would explain this. I believe you have a hardware problem in your D2. Anthem will likely need to swap it out for a new D2.


The most important result is that you get no hissing when the DVD player is connected by digital cable but not actually playing at the start. But the hiss returns as soon as the DVD player starts playing, and continues even if you then stop the DVD player. That eliminates any possibility that you are hearing EMI/RFI interference from some external source such as a light dimmer switch.


To verify this, try the following:


* Write down any D2 settings that you can't simply remember. You'll also need them if Anthem replaces your D2.


* Go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and do a Save User Settings (so you can restore them later). Then do a Reload Factory Defaults. You will likely lose your TV picture but you can still continue using the Front Panel display.


* When the Reload Factory Defaults completes, use the Back button to exit the Setup menu. Then turn off the D2. Also turn off the power switch on the back of the D2.


* Disconnect EVERYTHING from the D2 -- and I mean EVERYTHING -- except for: (1) The D2 power cord. (2) One audio output cable from the D2 to your amp for the Left Front speaker channel. Leave the other audio output cables to the amp disconnected. And (3) an OPTICAL audio cable from the DVD player to the D2's Optical 1 input. It must be an OPTICAL audio cable for this test (the optical cable has no metal and thus has no electrical connection between the DVD player and the D2). Do not connect ANY other cables to the D2. No video input cables and no video output to your display for example. No HDMI cables. No other source devices. No cable to your subwoofer.


* Also disconnect any other cables from the DVD player except for the DVD power cable and the OPTICAL audio cable to the D2.


* Turn on the back panel power switch on the D2. Power up the D2.


* Using the Front Panel display, go to Setup / Source Setup / DVD1 and enter Audio In = Optical 1. Also enter Auto Dig = NO. Make no other changes.


* Back out of the Setup menu. You will not need to make any changes in the Video Output menu or the Speaker Configuration menus for this test.


* Turn off the D2. Remove any disc from the DVD player and turn off the DVD player. The amp can remain on.


* Turn on the D2. When the D2 finishes powering up, select the DVD1 input and adjust the D2 main volume to a normal listening level.


QUESTION 1: You should hear no hiss. Correct?


* Turn on the DVD player (no disc playing).


QUESTION 2: Still no hiss, correct?


* Put a normal, music CD in the DVD player and play it. You should hear music from your Left Front speaker (the only audio output from the D2).


[If the D2 main volume is too loud or too soft for this CD, adjust it now to a normal listening level, remember that value, and start over from where you powered down the D2 and DVD player just above. Adjust the D2 main volume back to this value after you power up the D2.]


QUESTION 3: With the D2 main volume properly adjusted to hear the music from the Left Front speaker, do you now also hear an annoying amount of hiss from that speaker?


* Reach behind the DVD player and disconnect the Optical audio cable. The music will, of course, stop.


QUESITON 4: Do you STILL hear the same amount of hiss?


If the answer is YES to these 4 questions, then you likely have a hardware problem in your D2.


It can't be EMI/RFI since there is no hiss until you start playing the CD.


And it can't be a problem in your DVD player since the hiss, once it begins, keeps going even after you disconnect the optical digital audio cable.


It is just barely possible that the hiss is being generated in your amp. Your amp may be muting itself until it sees an input signal. When an input signal appears, the amp unmutes and the hiss appears. But the amp stays unmuted (with the hiss continuing) even after the signal vanishes.


This is not likely because of your test with the analog inputs to the D2 -- i.e., you had hiss even before you started the DVD player.


You can eliminate this possibility by trying a different amp. Bring the D2 back to your dealer and test it with one of the dealer's amps.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Coming from a 7 month "no problem" status of the AVM50, it gets frustrating with just 1 firmware upgrade everything is screwed. Maybe ,I left 1 HDMI source on or something. Maybe I did not follow instructions to the letter, but I just can't comprehend that I cannot revert back to my original firmware state without having any problems.
> 
> 
> Originally got 1.12q and had it loaded without a hitch. Tried PS3 and watched Dead Man's Chest for less than an hour and the problem started with no signal going to the PJ. After a while it video is on again but only for a minute or so. After fiddling with the switches and some settings after 2 hours, I can't get any video from any source. even the OSD from the CD input were gone. No volume indicator at the bottom of the screen anymore.
> 
> 
> Tried to 1.12r and the problems got worse. Tried going back to the original 1.11, loaded only after 10 tries and same problem also. Video can't seem to hold. It will just go out, sometimes returning and on some occasions, not coming back at all. Even if I power down or doing a complete shut off, nothing can get the video back. The weird thing is that even the audio has problems also, when HDMI tries a handshake a high pitch short burst of sound is heard. one of my amps shut down to protect itself. This could damage the tweeter of my speakers.
> 
> 
> Have tried more than 50 installs of several updates but to no avail. I can get CD sound via digital Coax though but no video. No install is completed and it says that it cannot load OKI boot loader. That's it after that, the unit shuts off.
> 
> 
> Can a Flash eraser help with my problem? I remember in one install the error message was Cannot load OKI loader protect state or something similar to this.
> 
> 
> Because of the 12 hr time difference. I can get response from Anthem only after 12 midnight when I am asleep. then when I get up , its night time in your timezone.



Let me see if I understand this:


1) V1.12q installed without any complaint or error, and initially appeared to be working, but after playing the PS3 for a while your video failed.


2) V1.12r ALSO installed without any complaint or error, but no help with the video problems.


3) Attempting to go back to the original V1.11 produced numerous install failures -- most of them being the OKI loader failure. You eventually got V1.11 to install without complaint but your video and now also audio over HDMI problems remain.


All correct?


OK, your PS3 problem with V1.12q and V1.12r sounds like an overheating problem. This should not be happening but there have been some reports like this with prior versions (notably V1.11g). Adding an external fan to help cool the D2 is a workaround that has worked for other folks. Of course this is something Anthem has to fix.


Your install problems with the original V1.11 are due to the installer application not working correctly on your computer. This problem was fixed in roughly the V1.11c release. The V1.11e release that you are attempting to get is the correct one for you to use to go back to the V1.11 style of software.


Your continuing problems after finally reinstalling V1.11 are disturbing. You could have a faulty install (fix it by installing the V1.11e version). But you may also have damaged your HDMI connections.


Carefully unplug your HDMI connections and, using a flashlight, check each plug and socket for signs of pin damage.


It is also just possible that Anthem made some change in the V1.12 version which makes it tricky to revert to a V1.11 version. I have not heard any such warnings.


One possibility is that your settings got messed up when you reverted. You might want to try a Reload Factory Defaults (of your V1.11 software) and then MANUALLY re-entering your settings rather than restoring them from any saved place.

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

Ok just so you all know, I did get the D2 fixed. I had to borrow my neighbors computer with xp loaded, I didnt get a crash at all and now everything is great. I dont think Vista agrees with the programing or the usb to serial adapter from radio shack. Does anyone use mac for these changes I think I might scrap all my computers and buy new macs. This has been so frustraiting, not because of anthem but because of windows vista.


So who has the anthem p5 and p2 for 7.1 surround? I want to biamp the fronts and the center channel, and i was thinking of getting either the p5 and p2 or getting the a series and get to biamp, I cant justify the cost to bi amp with the p5 and p2 to my wife but i think i could get the a series amps, let me know what you all think... Rob


----------



## sbwright

Just some info for anyone looking for options if you don't have/can't get an actual serial port. I queried Anthem for a suitable usb to serial adaptor and Frank replied with the following manufacturers - Keyspan, Belkin, or IO Gear.


As I understand it the key being Microsoft WHQL certified drivers.


I ended up purchasing the Keyspan. I am not having any issues with the older software currently installed and therefore have not yet used the device as I am awaiting the production release of the next version.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok just so you all know, I did get the D2 fixed. I had to borrow my neighbors computer with xp loaded, I didnt get a crash at all and now everything is great. I dont think Vista agrees with the programing or the usb to serial adapter from radio shack. Does anyone use mac for these changes I think I might scrap all my computers and buy new macs. This has been so frustraiting, not because of anthem but because of windows vista.
> 
> 
> So who has the anthem p5 and p2 for 7.1 surround? I want to biamp the fronts and the center channel, and i was thinking of getting either the p5 and p2 or getting the a series and get to biamp, I cant justify the cost to bi amp with the p5 and p2 to my wife but i think i could get the a series amps, let me know what you all think... Rob




ensmarcum,

I have the D2 p5 p2 set to matrix 7.1 out as the best you can do is 5.1 in! Having said that and I believe Filmixer (Marc) offered the best comments regarding 7.1 and the dearth of material in HD available with 7.1 source material.


However I would not change my p5 p2 configuration at this point and I will admit that this is mostly egotistical bias for the time being....... after the next release......1.12 full production I will probably have more substance to justify my position....I am currently running 1.10 and there have been a number of fixes which will affect my ability to configure and finally tweak the D2 properly and with stability working in my favour....


There has been a fairly recent in depth conversation on the subject of Biamping and I suggest doing a search in this thread.


Peter


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You might want to try a Reload Factory Defaults (of your V1.11 software) and then MANUALLY re-entering your settings rather than restoring them from any saved place.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I am planning to 'start fresh' with the next full prod release for the D2. Is there a simple way to do this so that I avoid inheriting any sins of the past? I realize it will mean starting all over but I'm hoping that it will have everything happily working together for a starter.


Peter


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Dudes,
> 
> 
> I have a huge problem now, I tried installing both 1.12q and r both ended with my computer going to a blue screen and restarting when the memory flashing was verifying itself. Now the D2 wont even show a picture or produce any sound. when I turn it on, it comes on as normal without sound and pic though, and then when I select an input it goes blank on the face and only 4 lights are left illuminated. Then about 4 min later the display comes back on and the process repeats itself. I am running windows vista now and I have to get some special drivers for the serial to usb adapter, because vista blows @$$! Does anyone have any thing they can suggest to me? Thanks. Rob



Have you tried a reset to original settings from the front panel?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I am planning to 'start fresh' with the next full prod release for the D2. Is there a simple way to do this so that I avoid inheriting any sins of the past? I realize it will mean starting all over but I'm hoping that it will have everything happily working together for a starter.
> 
> 
> Peter



Same as suggested above, it's actually part of the installation instructions to Setup/13/e. restore factory defaults (make SURE you save settings before you do that







)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I am planning to 'start fresh' with the next full prod release for the D2. Is there a simple way to do this so that I avoid inheriting any sins of the past? I realize it will mean starting all over but I'm hoping that it will have everything happily working together for a starter.
> 
> 
> Peter



The next software release will likely come with detailed upgrade instructions just as the V1.12 test software releases have now. Following those instructions is your best bet.


If you want to re-enter your settings manually after the upgrade just do that in lieu of the steps about reloading saved settings from files in the instructions.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Coming from a 7 month "no problem" status of the AVM50, it gets frustrating with just 1 firmware upgrade everything is screwed. Maybe ,I left 1 HDMI source on or something. Maybe I did not follow instructions to the letter, but I just can't comprehend that I cannot revert back to my original firmware state without having any problems.
> 
> 
> Originally got 1.12q and had it loaded without a hitch. Tried PS3 and watched Dead Man's Chest for less than an hour and the problem started with no signal going to the PJ. After a while it video is on again but only for a minute or so. After fiddling with the switches and some settings after 2 hours, I can't get any video from any source. even the OSD from the CD input were gone. No volume indicator at the bottom of the screen anymore.
> 
> 
> Tried to 1.12r and the problems got worse. Tried going back to the original 1.11, loaded only after 10 tries and same problem also. Video can't seem to hold. It will just go out, sometimes returning and on some occasions, not coming back at all. Even if I power down or doing a complete shut off, nothing can get the video back. The weird thing is that even the audio has problems also, when HDMI tries a handshake a high pitch short burst of sound is heard. one of my amps shut down to protect itself. This could damage the tweeter of my speakers.
> 
> 
> Have tried more than 50 installs of several updates but to no avail. I can get CD sound via digital Coax though but no video. No install is completed and it says that it cannot load OKI boot loader. That's it after that, the unit shuts off.
> 
> 
> Can a Flash eraser help with my problem? I remember in one install the error message was Cannot load OKI loader protect state or something similar to this.
> 
> 
> Because of the 12 hr time difference. I can get response from Anthem only after 12 midnight when I am asleep. then when I get up , its night time in your timezone.



just reverted from 12r to 12q because of projector startup issues on the Anthem. Went fine, but only one hop back.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just some info for anyone looking for options if you don't have/can't get an actual serial port. I queried Anthem for a suitable usb to serial adaptor and Frank replied with the following manufacturers - Keyspan, Belkin, or IO Gear.
> 
> 
> As I understand it the key being Microsoft WHQL certified drivers.
> 
> 
> I ended up purchasing the Keyspan. I am not having any issues with the older software currently installed and therefore have not yet used the device as I am awaiting the production release of the next version.



If you have to go with a USB/Serial adapter, be aware that these gizmos can sit on the peg in the store for quite a while before you buy one.


That means the driver software included in the package may very well ALREADY be outdated even before you first use it.


It is wise to check that you have the latest relevant driver software for your OS, and if there are new drivers from the USB/Serial adapter manufacturer then download and use those.

--Bob


----------



## cosmos5861

I am interested in getting the Panasonic TH-50PF9UK plasma. Native resolutions is 1920x1080 (1080p). Is this a good match?


Thank you!


----------



## [email protected]

Bob P,

Another question for you. I was able to install the 1.11g upgrade successfully and everything seems to be working o.k. with the 480i component bug. One thing I have noticed though, is that when I scroll through the status button it registers Video Input No Signal even though I am able to see video on the T.V.. The Main Display displays everything it's suppose to but in the right lower corner where the Video Input resolution is supposed to be the Volume is fixed and it never switches back to display the Video Input resolution. The video input resolution does appear on the AVM50 main display when I change from interlaced to progressive in the Denon 2900 setup menu. Additionally, in the video source adjustment/info screen it does reflect the correct input for 480i (720 x 480i). Is this another bug? Please advise. Thanks


German


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am interested in getting the Panasonic TH-50PF9UK plasma. Native resolutions is 1920x1080 (1080p). Is this a good match?
> 
> 
> Thank you!



It looks like it accepts 1080p as an input, and has a 1:1 pixel mapping mode. I'd say it's a good match!


Of course, a projector is an even better match


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob P,
> 
> Another question for you. I was able to install the 1.11g upgrade successfully and everything seems to be working o.k. with the 480i component bug. One thing I have noticed though, is that when I scroll through the status button it registers Video Input No Signal even though I am able to see video on the T.V.. The Main Display displays everything it's suppose to but in the right lower corner where the Video Input resolution is supposed to be the Volume is fixed and it never switches back to display the Video Input resolution. The video input resolution does appear on the AVM50 main display when I change from interlaced to progressive in the Denon 2900 setup menu. Additionally, in the video source adjustment/info screen it does reflect the correct input for 480i (720 x 480i). Is this another bug? Please advise. Thanks
> 
> 
> German



There have been a scattering of reports of the video resolution not showing up, or displaying incorrectly on the front panel display or when the Select button is pressed to bring up the status display. This has happened with different software versions. However it is fairly rare, and not easy to reproduce.


Normally the resolution always shows correctly in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel.


Also, switching to a different source device and back usually causes the front panel display and the Select status to bring up the correct resolution.


This is certainly a bug, but a relatively minor one. Apparently the sofware that generates those displays is not retrieving the video resolution correctly or at the right moment. The Video Source Adjust / Info display, on the other hand, is being generated by the scaler itself, which apparently DOES know the correct video resolution.


If you have an easily reproducible case of this with your setup and the V1.11g software you just installed, you should pass on the info to Anthem tech support. This may help them finally find and fix this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am interested in getting the Panasonic TH-50PF9UK plasma. Native resolutions is 1920x1080 (1080p). Is this a good match?
> 
> 
> Thank you!



If it accepts 1920x1080p/60Hz as an input resolution over HDMI it should be a good match. Panasonic plasmas generally get good reviews except, perhaps for their scalers. But the Anthem will be taking care of any scaling. They are also pretty well understood in terms of video calibration adjustments.


A better match would be if it ALSO accepts 1920x1080p/24Hz or /48Hz *AND* displays that at a refresh rate which is also a multiple of 24Hz. 72Hz as the refresh rate for this is probably the most common right now. That would mean you could display film based content "cadence judder free" through the Anthem.


I haven't looked into this particular Panasonic, so I don't know if it has any gotchas. Check the appropriate thread in the Plasma Displays forum here.

--Bob


----------



## drdisc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just some info for anyone looking for options if you don't have/can't get an actual serial port. I queried Anthem for a suitable usb to serial adaptor and Frank replied with the following manufacturers - Keyspan, Belkin, or IO Gear.
> 
> 
> As I understand it the key being Microsoft WHQL certified drivers.
> 
> 
> I ended up purchasing the Keyspan. I am not having any issues with the older software currently installed and therefore have not yet used the device as I am awaiting the production release of the next version.



I am also looking for a suitable USB to serial adapter. Does anyone have a successful REAL WORLD upgrade experience using this method and if so what specific brand and model of adapter did you find success with?


Mark


----------



## FilmMixer

^^ io gear works great for me. One of those three mentioned will be great.


The issues seem to arise when not using a "real" PC (i.e. no Mac with virtualization or emulation), or the supported OS's.


----------



## jsegrich

Is there much difference in the procesing of these 2 for video? Im mostly looking to use this for home theatre. I also dont really need it amping the speakers, Most of mine are self powered B&O. What about upgradability of AVM50?


Also, whats the benefit for going with one of these vs say a more component approach - like getting a lumagen box with a solid receiver for the A side, or even a pre-amp/processor and amp and lumagen? What would you recommend since I dont need the amp part now really. How would you spend the 5-6K?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsegrich* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there much difference in the procesing of these 2 for video? Im mostly looking to use this for home theatre. I also dont really need it amping the speakers, Most of mine are self powered B&O. What about upgradability of AVM50?
> 
> 
> Also, whats the benefit for going with one of these vs say a more component approach - like getting a lumagen box with a solid receiver for the A side, or even a pre-amp/processor and amp and lumagen? What would you recommend since I dont need the amp part now really. How would you spend the 5-6K?



Both the Statement D2 and the AVM-50 are pre-amp/processors. They are not integrated "Receivers". That means they don't include power amps for your speakers. You need to pair either of them with amps to drive the speakers.


I have heard the D2 working with B&O 8000 speakers (which, of course, have their own, bulti-in amps) and it sounds very good indeed. [You can, however, do much better than the subwoofer B&O sells.] The only trick is doing a little finagling of the B&O connectors at the Anthem end so that the B&O speakers respond to the 12-volt trigger from the Anthem. Other than that, if you like the B&O speakers it makes for a sweet setup.


The video solutions of the D2 and AVM-50 are identical.


The D2 has a more "exotic" audio solution, a better power supply, spare DSP processing power that is expected to be used "real soon now" in a Room EQ upgrade, and a mere handful of feature differences over the AVM-50.


Here is the Anthem comparison chart which lists those few feature differences:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...CompChart.html 


As for comparing a D2 or AVM-50 to the combo of a more common pre-amp/processor and an external scaler, the problem of chaining HDMI devices together, and the finger-pointing that erupts when something doesn't work, is the main issue. Right now the integrated video solution in the D2 and AVM-50 compares favorably with that offered in the external scalers.

--Bob


----------



## jsegrich

So you would go with the AVM50 if I dont need the extra bits from D2? How does it compare to other brands like sunfire TGV? Denon? Marantz? Lexicon? THanks for the help, its tough to get clear answers sometimes.....


any issues with it and blue ray from PS3?


also will the AVM50 be upgradable?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just answered this for someone in a PM. LEVESQUE this should probably be linked in the Setup section of links in the first post:


==============================================

*I Turned On Frame Lock, Lost My TV Picture, and Now Can't See it To Turn it Off!
*

OK, so you were playing around to see what things do, and turned on Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = AUTO for some input source and promptly lost your TV picture. Now you can't see the Video Source Adjust menu any more to turn Frame Lock = OFF! Is this your problem bunky?


You can fix this using the Video Source Adjust menu "shortcuts" that are collected under the "Mode" button on the remote.


Go to where you can see the Anthem's Front Panel display.


Using the remote, select the Anthem input which has the incorrect Frame Lock setting. Remember that Frame Lock is a per input setting, so you need to have the correct input selected before you can fix it.


Press AND HOLD the Mode button on the remote until the current Scale Out setting now shows on the Front Panel display.


Release the Mode button, pause briefly, and press it again. The current Crop Input setting now shows.


Press the Mode button once more. The current Frame Lock setting now shows. While it is showing, use the up or down arrows on the remote to change the Frame Lock setting.


If you see the current Gamma Correction setting, then you have pressed Mode once too many. Start over. If you see the audio processing mode displayed again then you have waited too long and the currently displayed "shortcut" has timed out. Just start over.


---------------------------------------


NOTE: The Anthem normally converts whatever video input it receives to the specific output resolution and frame rate you have specified in Setup / Video Output. Frame Lock = Auto changes that -- causing the Anthem to try to track the frame rate of the incoming video stream while still changing the output resolution (as necessary) to whatever resolution you have specified.


Your TV picture vanished because Frame Lock = Auto caused the Anthem to override your Setup / Video Output settings and use, instead, the video frame rate being generated by your source device. Apparently your TV is not able to accept that frame rate as valid input format.


So your TV picture will likely also return if you simply change the video output setting on that source device to one of the standard video resolutions/frame rates. I.e., 480i/60Hz, 720p/60Hz, or 1080i/60Hz output to the Anthem. Then you will once again be able to see the Video Source Adjust menu to turn off Frame Lock. After which you can change your source device's output back to whatever you prefer.


If your TV is *SUPPOSED* to be able to handle the frame rate you were sending it via Frame Lock = Auto, then you may have lost video due to a failure of the HDMI handshake. Each time the frame rate changes, a new handshake has to happen. Often, switching to a different source and back fixes things as this forces a new handshake. Sometimes you have to power cycle the display or the Anthem to fix a failed HDMI connection.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsegrich* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So you would go with the AVM50 if I dont need the extra bits from D2? How does it compare to other brands like sunfire TGV? Denon? Marantz? Lexicon? THanks for the help, its tough to get clear answers sometimes.....
> 
> 
> any issues with it and blue ray from PS3?
> 
> 
> also will the AVM50 be upgradable?



Personally, I like the D2 over the AVM-50. For the things that are important to me, I like it over any other product or combo of products to be had right now.


If you can afford the extra bucks, I'd go with the D2.


If not, the AVM-50 is no slouch by any means. There really is no other pre/pro+video solution as good -- other than, of course, the D2. It's the "+video" part of that which makes the big difference here.


---------------------------------------------------------


Until the next, general software release from Anthem, you will need to get a recent firmware release from Anthem tech support for best performance from the PS3. There have also been some reports, with some versions of Anthem software, of the PS3 causing the video processor in the Anthem to overheat. I'm sure Anthem is working on whatever the PS3 is doing that's causing that. The workaround is an external fan over the Anthem or a different software release.


By the time your Anthem arrives, that will likely be resolved and you may just have to do a software install.


--------------------------------------------------------


There are frequent software upgrades for the AVM-50.


At this point, it appears the upcoming Room EQ upgrade will only be available for the D2. There is no confirmation of this from Anthem, however.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz

My D2 is connected by balanced xlr connectors to an MCA50 Amp and with the volume turned all the way down there is an audible hiss coming from my tweeters. I did not notice this before with my Onkyo receiver. I unhooked my cable from my cable box to make sure it wasn't a ground loop problem and the noise did not change. Any ideas??


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My D2 is connected by balanced xlr connectors to an MCA50 Amp and with the volume turned all the way down there is an audible hiss coming from my tweeters. I did not notice this before with my Onkyo receiver. I unhooked my cable from my cable box to make sure it wasn't a ground loop problem and the noise did not change. Any ideas??



Check out the Hum FAQ sticky thread in the Audio Theory forum here -- in particular the EMI/RFI section of the first post.


"Hiss" interference often comes from things like dimmer switches and halogen lamps.

--Bob


----------



## drdisc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^ io gear works great for me. One of those three mentioned will be great.
> 
> 
> The issues seem to arise when not using a "real" PC (i.e. no Mac with virtualization or emulation), or the supported OS's.



Thanks Mr. Mixer!


I will be ordering an io cable today based upon your expert opinion.


Also, I hope that your 7.1 demo was a big success.


Mark


----------



## ajeruns

I recently purchased Sony's new blu ray player, BDP-S300, and connected it to my AVM-50 with HDMI cable. I am not getting picture or sound. I've tried changing the cable with no luck. I connected my Toshiba XA2 to the same HDMI port (3) that I had the Sony connected to and it worked fine, so I know its not the AVM-50 port. I connected the Sony Blu ray player directly to my TV via HDMI and its working properly. I connected the player to AVM-50 with component cable (left HDMI cable connected) and changed the settings in source setup and it worked properly. The only way I can get the Blu Ray player to work through the AVM-50 via HDMI is to go into source setup, and switch the setting from component cable to HDMI 3. But once I turn it off and turn it back on, I do not get picture and sound through HDMI.


I am currently running version 1.10 software in AVM-50. I also have a Toshiba XA2 connected via HDMI and have not had problems since upgrading the player's software to 1.6. I also have an Oppo 970 connected via HDMI with no issues.


Anyone have any suggestions? I was hoping I could hold out on revising my software in the AVM-50 until the next official release, but there's no telling when that will be. I've e mailed tech support and suspect they will recommend I try one of the many beta software floating around.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I recently purchased Sony's new blu ray player, BDP-S300, and connected it to my AVM-50 with HDMI cable. I am not getting picture or sound. I've tried changing the cable with no luck. I connected my Toshiba XA2 to the same HDMI port (3) that I had the Sony connected to and it worked fine, so I know its not the AVM-50 port. I connected the Sony Blu ray player directly to my TV via HDMI and its working properly. I connected the player to AVM-50 with component cable (left HDMI cable connected) and changed the settings in source setup and it worked properly. The only way I can get the Blu Ray player to work through the AVM-50 via HDMI is to go into source setup, and switch the setting from component cable to HDMI 3. But once I turn it off and turn it back on, I do not get picture and sound through HDMI.
> 
> 
> I am currently running version 1.10 software in AVM-50. I also have a Toshiba XA2 connected via HDMI and have not had problems since upgrading the player's software to 1.6. I also have an Oppo 970 connected via HDMI with no issues.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions? I was hoping I could hold out on revising my software in the AVM-50 until the next official release, but there's no telling when that will be. I've e mailed tech support and suspect they will recommend I try one of the many beta software floating around.



I think you are going to have to switch to new AVM-50 "test" software or continue to use the Source Setup workaround that you found until the real software release happens. Apparently the Sony is having trouble establishing the HDMI connection at power up.


Make sure you have HDMI Repeater = NO set in the Source Setup for that input. That setting makes it easier for the source device to establish the HDMI conection.


Also check that you have the latest software for the Sony player.


If you switch Anthem software right now, odds are they will ask you to try either V1.12q or V1.12r. So far, reports for both of these have been good, and neither should give you any problems with your XA2 or Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you switch Anthem software right now, odds are they will ask you to try either V1.12q or V1.12r. So far, reports for both of these have been good, and neither should give you any problems with your XA2 or Oppo.
> 
> --Bob



The 1.12r is not glitch free with the XA2. I've seen a pink screen once.







I changed sources and came back and it was corrected. No big deal for me, but to Nick, this is a big deal. He wants it perfect.


----------



## bcljones

Bob,


I can confirm that my new D2 has 1.11e installed. It is indicated on the outside of the box and the status display shows it as well. My dealer hooked up the new D2 along with an A2 and A5. Now comes the fun getting everything set like I want it to be...


Buddy


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks for the additional confirmation. I'm glad to see that Anthem has stopped shipping the original V1.11 in new units. It caused too many headaches for too many folks. The V1.11e stuff should work fine for you until the next software release becomes available. [Now if they'd just change the version downloaded from the web site as well....]


Have fun playing!

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns

Thanks Bob, hopefully it won't take Nick too long to reply to my e mail.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drdisc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Mr. Mixer!
> 
> 
> I will be ordering an io cable today based upon your expert opinion.
> 
> 
> Also, I hope that your 7.1 demo was a big success.
> 
> 
> Mark



We had to cancel the demo.. long story, but Rob did get to spend some time with us, and it was great seeing him... if he wants, he can tell you all about it


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We had to cancel the demo.. long story, but Rob did get to spend some time with us, and it was great seeing him... if he wants, he can tell you all about it



Wow, talk about great timing!










First and most importantly: _thank you very much Marc_ for inviting me in to the studio to get a true insider's look at what happens in the sound studio! Needless to say, I found it absolutely fascinating....even more so than I had imagined.


Guys, Marc didn't tell me a thing about what to expect in terms of who would/might be there. As I wandered around the lot, finding the right studio, I walk through the doors where I am met by several people. I inform them that I was looking for "Marc". I was told to proceed through some more doors, and that he was "expecting me". As I got closer to the other doors, I notice a person who looks _very_ familiar. I smiled as I walked past, and he said a very friendly "hello".


"Was that Rob Reiner" I thought to myself? Yes, it was. He was there to go over the sound mix with Marc and others at Todd AO studio for a new film that he is finishing with Jack Nicholson and Morgan Freeman.


Watching the process of movie making unfold before me was very exciting as a true movie fan. I told Marc the most fascinating thing was watching/listening to the way Rob Reiner would communicate what he wanted from the sound in terms of how he wanted to tell the story, and the way Marc and crew would react. A true team effort. I thought Reiner did a very good job in communicating what he was looking for....something I would think would be required to be a successful director, which Reiner obviously is!


He was very friendly, down to earth, and fun. Even asked about my family/kids.


It really is amazing how many layers of sound there are in these scenes. We watched a scene that takes place in an airplane, and the way the various sound effects can be taken away, added, or changed was very impressive. Even more impressive when you consider how _fast_ it could be done!










Marc clearly works hard long hours.....but he still has a _very cool_ job!


Thanks Marc!


----------



## Randall Morton

Thats awesome Rob. Thanks for relaying the experience. I'm jealous.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thats awesome Rob. Thanks for relaying the experience. I'm jealous.



Greetings,


I agree, great story and many thanks to Marc and Rob for sharing.



Regards,


----------



## LEVESQUE

Thats awesome Rob! I'm SOOOO jealous.


----------



## LEVESQUE

1.12q is working perfectly for me, so I will wait a bit...











The PS3 and XA2 are working great with that firmware for me, and even my satellite STB is working like a charm. Switching input is fast and always glitch free, and handshakes are fast and stable.


BTW, my frame-lock is working for me. So I have Video ouput 1: 1080p60, with Tosh XA2 and sat STB, and Video ouput 2: 1080p24 with the PS3 with frame-lock on. Working like a charm. Not a single skipping or studder after more then 7 Blu-ray titles at 1080p24!


----------



## gostan

Rob,


You were in the right place and the right time.


Simply interesting beyond words!!


----------



## drdisc

Rob:


Wow! It sounds like you had an amazing visit with Marc! I guess you had both an audio and visual overload!


Wait until Peter reads about this!


Marc:


I have extra Air Miles so the next time you have a demo scheduled I will have to try and make it out to see you in action -- but you have to make sure that Angelina Jolie is around checking out the final mixdown for one of her films


Mark


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow, talk about great timing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First and most importantly: _thank you very much Marc_ for inviting me in to the studio to get a true insider's look at what happens in the sound studio! Needless to say, I found it absolutely fascinating....even more so than I had imagined.
> 
> 
> Guys, Marc didn't tell me a thing about what to expect in terms of who would/might be there. As I wandered around the lot, finding the right studio, I walk through the doors where I am met by several people. I inform them that I was looking for "Marc". I was told to proceed through some more doors, and that he was "expecting me". As I got closer to the other doors, I notice a person who looks _very_ familiar. I smiled as I walked past, and he said a very friendly "hello".
> 
> 
> "Was that Rob Reiner" I thought to myself? Yes, it was. He was there to go over the sound mix with Marc and others at Todd AO studio for a new film that he is finishing with Jack Nicholson and Morgan Freeman.
> 
> 
> Watching the process of movie making unfold before me was very exciting as a true movie fan. I told Marc the most fascinating thing was watching/listening to the way Rob Reiner would communicate what he wanted from the sound in terms of how he wanted to tell the story, and the way Marc and crew would react. A true team effort. I thought Reiner did a very good job in communicating what he was looking for....something I would think would be required to be a successful director, which Reiner obviously is!
> 
> 
> He was very friendly, down to earth, and fun. Even asked about my family/kids.
> 
> 
> It really is amazing how many layers of sound there are in these scenes. We watched a scene that takes place in an airplane, and the way the various sound effects can be taken away, added, or changed was very impressive. Even more impressive when you consider how _fast_ it could be done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc clearly works hard long hours.....but he still has a _very cool_ job!
> 
> 
> Thanks Marc!



That must have been a terrific experience!


According to imdb the film is titled _The Bucket List_.


----------



## bubba

Help!

I'm going crazy trying to get my D2 to play the DD sountrack of any DVD played on my Arcam DV29 connected via HDMI. I get either channels out of place, or a very loud high-pitched squeal.

-- The Arcam is set to bitstream/ 6-channel, and the d2 is set to receive audio via HDMI.


Does anyone have an idea as to what is going on?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bubba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Help!
> 
> I'm going crazy trying to get my D2 to play the DD sountrack of any DVD played on my Arcam DV29 connected via HDMI. I get either channels out of place, or a very loud high-pitched squeal.
> 
> -- The Arcam is set to bitstream/ 6-channel, and the d2 is set to receive audio via HDMI.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have an idea as to what is going on?



I suspect you have a setup problem in the Arcam.


I'm not familiar with that player. What other choices does it offer for the audio output setting over HDMI?


Also, if it has an optical or coax digital audio output, try hooking that up to verify that the player is properly reading the disc and is able to transfer the DD bitstream to the D2 that way.


------------------------------------------------------


Meanwhile in the D2, verify that you have HDMI Repeater = NO and Auto Dig = NO in the Source Setup for that input. That simplifies the connection.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns

I think the D-2 will only accept PCM via HDMI.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think the D-2 will only accept PCM via HDMI.



No that's incorrect. The D2 will also accept normal DD and DTS bitstreams over HDMI in the same manner it will accept them over traditional optical or coax digital audio cable.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns

Oopps, that's what I get for thinking.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bubba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Help!
> 
> I'm going crazy trying to get my D2 to play the DD sountrack of any DVD played on my Arcam DV29 connected via HDMI. I get either channels out of place, or a very loud high-pitched squeal.
> 
> -- The Arcam is set to bitstream/ 6-channel, and the d2 is set to receive audio via HDMI.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have an idea as to what is going on?



Looking at the Arcam DV-29 manual:


Make sure you have Output Priority = HDMI/DVI set in the Arcam (manual page 14). This enables the automatic HDMI configuration handshake.


The audio setting you want for playing standard DVDs is actually Bitstream+2-CH (manual page 15). With that setting the player sends the still encoded bitstreams to the D2 for standard DVDs and sends 2 channel PCM to the D2 for CDs.


[The Bitstream+6-CH setting you have been trying to use causes THE PLAYER to decode the bitstreams from the disc and send 6 channels of PCM to the D2 over the HDMI connection according to speaker configuration information you have set up in the player. This setting would only make sense when playing DVD-Audio discs.]


--------------------------------------------------


The faulty speaker mapping and squealing you were hearing are likely due to incorrect setup of the decoding function and speaker configuration in THE PLAYER when using that Bitstream+6CH setting. I've no idea why the player is offering that for standard DVD playback. It seems a silly option.


In any event, switching to the correct Bitstream+2Ch setting should fix your problem for standard DVD and CD playback.


If you have DVD-Audio discs you want to play over HDMI, you will need to experiment some more with the Bitstream+6CH setting. The D2 offers a speaker mapping function in Source Setup for fixing issues with DVD-Audio where the player is not sending the sounds to the correct speakers. You should not fiddle with this for normal DVD or CD playback.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi

Amazing experience Rod.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We had to cancel the demo.. long story, but Rob did get to spend some time with us, and it was great seeing him... if he wants, he can tell you all about it




Is the demo cancelled or just postponed?


----------



## shn750

Hello. I was wondering what your preferred crop mode everyone selects with viewing SDTV?


I've read all the post on cropping and scaling and torn on the best choice based on my preferences. I'm using a DirecTV H20 and Pioneer plasma 5050HD.


In reading the crop/scaling thread, it is the recommendation to not use Zoom mode for normal viewing as it will not give the best results. With that being said, I think the Zoom mode is the only option based on my preference.


For HDTV viewing, the display shows in 16x9 without any problems. However, I do want to use the full screen for SDTV viewing with no pillar box. For the crop input, I would either select HDMI auto detect or 16x9. For the scale output, if I select anamorphic stretch or panoramic stretch, both distorts the image. I would rather not use 4x3 to generate the pillar box. The only other option is Zoom.


Is there a workaround to allow SDTV 4x3 to fill the screen without any distorted pictures with the stretch modes?


Also for those generating letter/pillarboxes, what color are you setting the D2 to display the borders? Black, dark, medium, light, etc? I'm using the lightest in hopes to minimize any burn in on the plasma.


Thanks

Steve


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Thanks for the comments guys, it really was a terrific experience! A real eye opener.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That must have been a terrific experience!
> 
> 
> According to imdb the film is titled _The Bucket List_.



Yes, that is it. Funny, I was going to post a link to the IMDB in my original post and completely forgot!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello. I was wondering what your preferred crop mode everyone selects with viewing SDTV?
> 
> 
> I've read all the post on cropping and scaling and torn on the best choice based on my preferences. I'm using a DirecTV H20 and Pioneer plasma 5050HD.
> 
> 
> In reading the crop/scaling thread, it is the recommendation to not use Zoom mode for normal viewing as it will not give the best results. With that being said, I think the Zoom mode is the only option based on my preference.
> 
> 
> For HDTV viewing, the display shows in 16x9 without any problems. However, I do want to use the full screen for SDTV viewing with no pillar box. For the crop input, I would either select HDMI auto detect or 16x9. For the scale output, if I select anamorphic stretch or panoramic stretch, both distorts the image. I would rather not use 4x3 to generate the pillar box. The only other option is Zoom.
> 
> 
> Is there a workaround to allow SDTV 4x3 to fill the screen without any distorted pictures with the stretch modes?
> 
> 
> Also for those generating letter/pillarboxes, what color are you setting the D2 to display the borders? Black, dark, medium, light, etc? I'm using the lightest in hopes to minimize any burn in on the plasma.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve



Steve, you can't make a 4:3 image fill a 16:9 screen without either distorting the image, or losing portions of the image off the top and bottom of the screen, or both. The shapes are different.


If you really want to view your SDTV (4:3) stuff by discarding the top and bottom of the image so that it can fill the screen, then don't use the Scale Out / Zoom feature.


Instead, set up a Crop Input / Custom setting where the Horizontal size remains at maximum and the Vertical size is reduced according to how much of the image you want to discard top and bottom. Then use Scale Out / Anamorphic to uniformly stretch what's left to fill your 16:9 screen.


If the ratio of the Horizontal to Vertical Size in your Custom Crop setting ends up as 16:9 then the portion of the image you see will just fill the screen without being distorted. But again, you will lose a significant part of the image off the top and bottom.


------------------------------------------------------------


By the way, your SDTV source device should be setup up to send the images to a 16:9 screen, and to send what looks like an image that has been uniformly stretched left to right to fill that screen. I.e., do NOT have your source device generate pillar box bars for you!


Although this sounds like I'm telling you to have the source stretch the image left and right, in reality this setup means the source is doing NOTHING to the image. It is still sending out the same 480x720i image data that it is receiving from the SDTV station, it's just that each pixel is interpreted (by the D2) as "fatter".


If you tell your source to put on the pillar box bars then it STILL sends 480x720i, but a significant number of the pixels across each 720 pixel wide line are set to black (or whatever) leaving only the center of each 720-wide line to hold the real picture information. This just wastes horizontal resolution.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow, talk about great timing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First and most importantly: _thank you very much Marc_ for inviting me in to the studio to get a true insider's look at what happens in the sound studio! Needless to say, I found it absolutely fascinating....even more so than I had imagined.
> 
> 
> Guys, Marc didn't tell me a thing about what to expect in terms of who would/might be there. As I wandered around the lot, finding the right studio, I walk through the doors where I am met by several people. I inform them that I was looking for "Marc". I was told to proceed through some more doors, and that he was "expecting me". As I got closer to the other doors, I notice a person who looks _very_ familiar. I smiled as I walked past, and he said a very friendly "hello".
> 
> 
> "Was that Rob Reiner" I thought to myself? Yes, it was. He was there to go over the sound mix with Marc and others at Todd AO studio for a new film that he is finishing with Jack Nicholson and Morgan Freeman.
> 
> 
> Watching the process of movie making unfold before me was very exciting as a true movie fan. I told Marc the most fascinating thing was watching/listening to the way Rob Reiner would communicate what he wanted from the sound in terms of how he wanted to tell the story, and the way Marc and crew would react. A true team effort. I thought Reiner did a very good job in communicating what he was looking for....something I would think would be required to be a successful director, which Reiner obviously is!
> 
> 
> He was very friendly, down to earth, and fun. Even asked about my family/kids.
> 
> 
> It really is amazing how many layers of sound there are in these scenes. We watched a scene that takes place in an airplane, and the way the various sound effects can be taken away, added, or changed was very impressive. Even more impressive when you consider how _fast_ it could be done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc clearly works hard long hours.....but he still has a _very cool_ job!
> 
> 
> Thanks Marc!



I am soooooo totally insanely jealous. What a phenomenal opportunity for a serious film buff (although I'm not sure that 'film buff' accurately labels the Rob that we have come to know and love!!!!!). Nice description Rob......Marc has either worked on or with the crews of at least three of my all time favourite films.......what a phenomenal privilege! There has got to be a way to bring the 'principals' of this group together face to face. I guess now would be a good time to ask if Bob, Marc, Alain, Rob, Hank, Tolstoi and others...you know who you are.......might be attending the Cedia conference in Denver in the fall???


Or is there a better more convenient venue that we might be able to focus on? Marc, letting ROB share his experience with us is a hugely appreciated gift. It really shudda been me Marc .............................



Peter


----------



## FilmMixer

^^^ Every body in this thread is always invited... look me up when in LA...


As far as the demo goes, it might not happen, but the 7.1 mix is still a possibility.


Peter... come on down! Since I am from Denver, I might make that the time to go home and visit


----------



## Ian_Currie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1.12q is working perfectly for me, so I will wait a bit...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The PS3 and XA2 are working great with that firmware for me, and even my satellite STB is working like a charm. Switching input is fast and always glitch free, and handshakes are fast and stable.
> 
> 
> BTW, my frame-lock is working for me. So I have Video ouput 1: 1080p60, with Tosh XA2 and sat STB, and Video ouput 2: 1080p24 with the PS3 with frame-lock on. Working like a charm. Not a single skipping or studder after more then 7 Blu-ray titles at 1080p24!



Is there any way I can get access to this version? I'm running 1.11e and would love to be able to get my PS3 running at 1080p24....


Thanks...!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there any way I can get access to this version? I'm running 1.11e and would love to be able to get my PS3 running at 1080p24....
> 
> 
> Thanks...!



Just give Anthem tech support a call, let them know what you are trying to do with the PS3, and they will likely email it to you.

--Bob


----------



## uberanalyst

As a new D2 owner, I have a question:


I've got an ancient Sony DVD player sending 480i (interlaced, not progressive) to the D2 over an analog component input, and then the D2 converts this to 1080p60 over HDMI to my JVC RS-1 projector. Everything works properly and my DVD player's output has never looked better.


So how come the D2 video processor "info" screen says my source is "480i x 1440"? This seem strange because DVDs are really only 480 x 720 pixels.


Is this because the D2's video ADC is oversampling (x2) its analog component input from the DVD player?


How does the D2 determine what sample rate to use on analog video inputs like this? There doesn't seem to be any way to control it.


- Dave


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As a new D2 owner, I have a question:
> 
> 
> I've got an ancient Sony DVD player sending 480i (interlaced, not progressive) to the D2 over an analog component input, and then the D2 converts this to 1080p60 over HDMI to my JVC RS-1 projector. Everything works properly and my DVD player's output has never looked better.
> 
> 
> So how come the D2 video processor "info" screen says my source is "480i x 1440"? This seem strange because DVDs are really only 480 x 720 pixels.
> 
> 
> Is this because the D2's video ADC is oversampling (x2) its analog component input from the DVD player?
> 
> 
> How does the D2 determine what sample rate to use on analog video inputs like this? There doesn't seem to be any way to control it.
> 
> 
> - Dave



If you search back in this thread - you will see this is a

software bug that Bob and Others have identified and

Anthem has fixed in newer software than you have.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As a new D2 owner, I have a question:
> 
> 
> I've got an ancient Sony DVD player sending 480i (interlaced, not progressive) to the D2 over an analog component input, and then the D2 converts this to 1080p60 over HDMI to my JVC RS-1 projector. Everything works properly and my DVD player's output has never looked better.
> 
> 
> So how come the D2 video processor "info" screen says my source is "480i x 1440"? This seem strange because DVDs are really only 480 x 720 pixels.
> 
> 
> Is this because the D2's video ADC is oversampling (x2) its analog component input from the DVD player?
> 
> 
> How does the D2 determine what sample rate to use on analog video inputs like this? There doesn't seem to be any way to control it.
> 
> 
> - Dave



As DRHANKZ notes, this is a bug that has affected some people with Component 480i input devices. It's not certain how long this bug has been around, but it is certainly present in the V1.10 and V1.11 software releases.


So far, every report says this is accompanied by noticeable problems in the D2's video output when fed Component 480i input -- problems that at first glance appear to be de-interlacing errors but are actually something else.


You say your video looks great from your DVD player, so you may have a variant case where the input resolution is being reported incorrectly but the video defects aren't appearing (which would be a surprise to me), or it may be that you just haven't noticed the video defects since you are comparing against your memory of your prior DVD setup which may very well have had real de-interlacing errors that looked similar. I.e., you don't realize what you are missing!


In either case, this is fixed in "test" software version V1.11g. It is also fixed in the latest, Beta "test" software versions, V1.12q and V1.12r. Folks who have reported this "480x1440i" symptom have invariably said their Component 480i video was much improved once they installed this fix.


If you give Anthem tech support a call, they will likely email you one of these software versions to install. Or if you are happy with your current DVD video, you might want to wait a few weeks more for the official, next software release.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In response to SHN750:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Steve, you can't make a 4:3 image fill a 16:9 screen without either distorting the image, or losing portions of the image off the top and bottom of the screen, or both. The shapes are different.
> 
> 
> If you really want to view your SDTV (4:3) stuff by discarding the top and bottom of the image so that it can fill the screen, then don't use the Scale Out / Zoom feature.
> 
> 
> Instead, set up a Crop Input / Custom setting where the Horizontal size remains at maximum and the Vertical size is reduced according to how much of the image you want to discard top and bottom. Then use Scale Out / Anamorphic to uniformly stretch what's left to fill your 16:9 screen.
> 
> 
> If the ratio of the Horizontal to Vertical Size in your Custom Crop setting ends up as 16:9 then the portion of the image you see will just fill the screen without being distorted. But again, you will lose a significant part of the image off the top and bottom.



Steve, I think I need to add something to clarify here.


If all you want is a spot-on 16:9 crop of your 4:3 SDTV then you can simply set Crop Input = 16:9, and Scale Out = Anamorphic. You don't have to fiddle with the Custom crop setting (unless you want to play around and see what it does).


But if you want an INTERMEDIATE setup -- one that partially stretches left and right and partially crops off a lesser amount of the top and bottom of the image to fill the screen with somewhat less stretch distortion and somewhat less image loss top and bottom -- then you can accomplish that using a Custom crop input setting (Horizontal at max and Vertical somewhat less than max) along with Scale Out = Anamorphic.


So you have complete flexibility here to determine how much stretch you want vs. how much of the image is lost top and bottom -- while always filling your 16:9 screen.


You can set the Custom crop setting you prefer and then switch between HDMI Auto, or 16:9, or your preset Custom crop setting using the Mode button.


Press and hold Mode until the current Scale Out setting appears. Release the Mode button, pause briefly, and press it again. The current Crop Input setting now appears and you can cycle between the Crop Input choices using the Up and Down arrows.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Levesque

I know you are the Anthem person. I have been reading for the last two weeks and you guys have cost me a lot of money. I was reasonably happy with my Denon 5700. After reading all the reviews and comments on line I had to jump in.

Yesterday I bought the D2 and could not justify the p5 and P2. So for the moment I bought the A5. I will wait on getting the 7.1 and decide whether to get the A2 or P2 for the left and right front speakers.


Any comments on why you went with the P5 and P2. I only have Thiel 2.3 for the front and CS1 for the center and power points for the surrounds. Sunfire for the subwoofer, and Marantz S3 for the projector on a 110 inch Dalite.

Are you all using balanced cables between the D2 and the amps? Comments. Any length restrictions?

Also, is anyone using the D2 With the Harmony universal remote?. I have the 890.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque
> 
> I know you are the Anthem person. I have been reading for the last two weeks and you guys have cost me a lot of money. I was reasonably happy with my Denon 5700. After reading all the reviews and comments on line I had to jump in.
> 
> Yesterday I bought the D2 and could not justify the p5 and P2. So for the moment I bought the A5. I will wait on getting the 7.1 and decide whether to get the A2 or P2 for the left and right front speakers.
> 
> 
> Any comments on why you went with the P5 and P2. I only have Thiel 2.3 for the front and CS1 for the center and power points for the surrounds. Sunfire for the subwoofer, and Marantz S3 for the projector on a 110 inch Dalite.
> 
> Are you all using balanced cables between the D2 and the amps? Comments. Any length restrictions?
> 
> Also, is anyone using the D2 With the Harmony universal remote?. I have the 890.



I'm using the D2 with a Harmony 880 remote. It works fine.


Balanced cables look cool (make your friends envious!), and for some folks it adds piece of mind, but in reality, most home theater setups don't really need them.


The idea of a balanced cable is that the signal is sent two ways -- balanced either side of ground. At the destination the two sides of the balanced signal are subtracted one from the other to get the "real" intended signal. In doing this, any interference that entered the signal as it passed along the cable automatically gets zeroed out since, in theory, it enters both sides of the balanced signal to the same amount and you just subtracted one side from the other.


That's why balanced cables are a natural fit for professional studio use where you often have very long cable runs and lots of electrical interference.


But for typical home theater cable runs between the Anthem and the amps (3 to 6 feet) and for typical home theater electrical environments, decently made, shielded RCA cables will work identically well.


I'll leave it to others who want to comment on the amps you asked about.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns

Nick has sent me V1.12s beta software to install. Hopefully I can find time tomorrow to install it and it will fix my issue with the Sony BDPS-300.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick has sent me V1.12s beta software to install. Hopefully I can find time tomorrow to install it and it will fix my issue with the Sony BDPS-300.



V1.12s? Yet another version heard from! Let us know how it goes, and also if there are any notes on specific items fixed compared to V1.12q and V1.12r.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

I love Anthem. Looks to me like the 1.12s may have solved the inverse telecine for 24p playback from various sources. I've watched about 15 minutes of Chronicles of Riddick on HDDVD at 24p and didn't see a glitch. I also watched a few minutes of an SD DVD at 24p with the same results. I'm fairly excited about this as I wasn't expecting this so soon. I don't know if it is glitch free on 24p, but it has been for the short times I've watched. I've only tested at 1080i. My frame lock also works again, but it doesn't seem to be needed for 24P playback.


I haven't checked my BDP HD1 yet to see if it has corrected the locking up problem, because mine hasn't been locking up since I tried to reinstall the old firmware on the

Pioneer. Well, that's about it for now, I need to watch some more movies to see if I can find anything wrong. I also want to test 480i output at 24p. Oh, I did get a pink screen again the first time I turned on the XA2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I love Anthem. Looks to me like the 1.12s may have solved the inverse telecine for 24p playback from various sources. I've watched about 15 minutes of Chronicles of Riddick on HDDVD at 24p and didn't see a glitch. I also watched a few minutes of an SD DVD at 24p with the same results. I'm fairly excited about this as I wasn't expecting this so soon. I don't know if it is glitch free on 24p, but it has been for the short times I've watched. I've only tested at 1080i. My frame lock also works again, but it doesn't seem to be needed for 24P playback.
> 
> 
> I haven't checked my BDP HD1 yet to see if it has corrected the locking up problem, because mine hasn't been locking up since I tried to reinstall the old firmware on the
> 
> Pioneer. Well, that's about it for now, I need to watch some more movies to see if I can find anything wrong. I also want to test 480i output at 24p. Oh, I did get a pink screen again the first time I turned on the XA2.



THAT'S GREAT NEWS! --Bob


----------



## ajeruns

This is the e mail Nick sent me:


Hi,


v1.12q fixed many things but created new issues for some, v1.12r fixed some

of those but created others. Thanks to all who sent us feedback whether or

not there were issues - "no issues" is also important feedback so we don't

break things that are working.


v1.12s narrows the gap with minor HDMI changes and major power-up sequence

changes.


Also in v1.12s:


Improved support for 1080p24 in to 1080p24 out such that frame lock can be

turned off if you were using it. Using dual video-out configs instead is

recommended, with 1080p60 for video 1 and 1080p24 for video 2 - assign video

2 for your Blu-ray input (if the player outputs 1080p24) and video 1 for the

rest.


Note that this is also a step towards 1080i60 and 480i60 in to 1080p24 out

(it may work in your system if display accepts 1080p24) although this still

needs an *unknown* amount of work to be stable... please hold off questions

about inverse telecine availability.


Best Regards,

Nick P., Technical Support


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I love Anthem. Looks to me like the 1.12s may have solved the inverse telecine for 24p playback from various sources. I've watched about 15 minutes of Chronicles of Riddick on HDDVD at 24p and didn't see a glitch. I also watched a few minutes of an SD DVD at 24p with the same results. I'm fairly excited about this as I wasn't expecting this so soon. I don't know if it is glitch free on 24p, but it has been for the short times I've watched. I've only tested at 1080i. My frame lock also works again, but it doesn't seem to be needed for 24P playback.
> 
> 
> I haven't checked my BDP HD1 yet to see if it has corrected the locking up problem, because mine hasn't been locking up since I tried to reinstall the old firmware on the
> 
> Pioneer. Well, that's about it for now, I need to watch some more movies to see if I can find anything wrong. I also want to test 480i output at 24p.


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is anyone using the D2 With the Harmony universal remote?. I have the 890.



I have the 890 and the D2 works perfect.


Jeremy


----------



## Randall Morton

This is working great so far. I watched about 20 minutes of A History of Violence on HBO HD at 1080i , output at 1080p/24 and I didn't see a glitch. Even if we find some minor glitches, this is great progress. I am very excited about this. I was tired of waiting for Toshiba for 24P playback on HD DVDs. Now it seems I may have 24P playback for most all film sources. I'm going to need to set up overlays for my HD DVD player and my 8300HD with one for 24fps and one for 60fps.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you all using balanced cables between the D2 and the amps? Comments. Any length restrictions?



I'm using balanced connections from my D2 to my amps and also to my Velodyne SMS-1 subwoofer EQ. The runs aren't that long (15 feet or so), but they do run close to power cords. Also, theoretically, balanced cables help prevent or lessen ground loop hum problems. Balanced cables do cost more, though (but if you have a D2, the delta cost for balanced cost is relatively low). I got the Belden 1800F from Blue Jeans Cable:

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/...udio/index.htm 


I searched around for a while, and relative to other places, I found their price to be reasonable. There may be cheaper places where you can get them (particularly from places that don't market specifically to the home theater/audiophile crowd), but as far as audiophile type retailers go, I found Blue Jeans' balanced cable to be good.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thats awesome Rob. Thanks for relaying the experience. I'm jealous.



Ditto.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is working great so far. I watched about 20 minutes of A History of Violence on HBO HD at 1080i , output at 1080p/24 and I didn't see a glitch. Even if we find some minor glitches, this is great progress. I am very excited about this. I was tired of waiting for Toshiba for 24P playback on HD DVDs. Now it seems I may have 24P playback for most all film sources. I'm going to need to set up overlays for my HD DVD player and my 8300HD with one for 24fps and one for 60fps.



If the basics are working, the glitches are going to be at places where the cadence changes in an unusual manner (i.e., bad edits), and also where video-based content is spliced into what's otherwise film-based content.


The bad edits should be just a matter of how quickly the D2 picks up the cadence again. The Gennum stuff seems very fast at that. So that should not be a problem. The problem up to now appears to have been that when the Gennum lost the cadence then, for some reason when generating /24Hz output, it didn't find it again.


But films with video-based clips inserted in the stream can be more of a problem. That's because content that originated as /30Hz or /60Hz can't really be presented smoothly at /24Hz. If you are watching a film that happens to have a lot of that, you will likely be happier using /60Hz output from the D2 since normal cadence judder of the film-based portions is so easy for the brain to ignore anyway.


There may also be a problem from stuff with unusual cadences.

--Bob


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Levesque
> 
> Yesterday I bought the D2 and could not justify the p5 and P2. So for the moment I bought the A5. I will wait on getting the 7.1 and decide whether to get the A2 or P2 for the left and right front speakers.



Well, if you do find a noticeable difference between the A2 and P2, and you wind up liking the P2 over the A2, not sure you should necessarilly get the P2 if you already have the A5. Theoretically, you would want the front 3 speakers to sound as similar as possible, and they should ideally use the same amps (and speakers, but that usually isn't possible). In reality, the fact that the center speaker is different (even in orientation) than the Front L/R speakers might negate the argument that it's best to use the same amp for all 3 front speakers.


I'd also be interested to hear from D2 owners who have compared the A5 and the P5. I'm still using two Rotel RMB-1095 amps with my D2 (I used to use the Rotel amps with a Denon 4802, and folks in this forum were also a bad influence and made me spend lots of $$ to get the D2; actually, I've heard great things about Anthem for many years, and I would have gotten the Anthem 20 many years ago instead of the Denon, but it didn't have as much component inputs as the Denon did, among other things.... I would have been better getting the Anthem 20 in retrospect).


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^^ Every body in this thread is always invited... look me up when in LA...
> 
> 
> As far as the demo goes, it might not happen, but the 7.1 mix is still a possibility.
> 
> 
> Peter... come on down! Since I am from Denver, I might make that the time to go home and visit



Marc,

You are a great guy to share such an experience.


Noted 7.1 and seeing more and more 6.1 DTS and Dolby EX encoded rear software coming out. Need 7.1 PCM (chant, chant, chant)


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you all using balanced cables between the D2 and the amps? Comments. Any length restrictions?



I'm using balanced cables, but I have 70' cable runs (incl. vertical) for L/C/R channels from my equipment rack in the rear to the L/C/R amp up front. Using BJC, they seem to work well - no hint of a 60Hz hum.


----------



## rudolpht

12s is a winner. Fixed the startup issue that pushed me from 12r back to 12q.


Great stuff, looks very close to showtime on a production release.


Tim


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Need 7.1 PCM (chant, chant, chant)



Agreed!! Chant, chant, chant!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is working great so far. I watched about 20 minutes of A History of Violence on HBO HD at 1080i , output at 1080p/24 and I didn't see a glitch. Even if we find some minor glitches, this is great progress. I am very excited about this. I was tired of waiting for Toshiba for 24P playback on HD DVDs. Now it seems I may have 24P playback for most all film sources. I'm going to need to set up overlays for my HD DVD player and my 8300HD with one for 24fps and one for 60fps.



Keep it up Randall! This is just tremendous news. Like you said before "I love Anthem". Keep us advised as to what kind of success you have over the next few days. Hopefully you will get the chance to watch an HD-DVD all the way through this weekend to see if there are any glitches, and spend more time with 1080i via the 8300HD.


Those overlay options look like they are going to come in _very_ handy!


----------



## Randall Morton

Rob, don't you think it's about time for you to jump in.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob, don't you think it's about time for you to jump in.



Let's just say with these recent reports, I have never been any closer!


----------



## yourlilbro

So far I'm loving my D2! Although still in the showroom (The HT at home ain't ready yet







), It's almost identical to my setup, a pair of Energy's RC-70s, and 2 pairs of RC-Rs, plus one Energy XL-s12. Although their amps are abit better than mine :|.


Compared it to the Krell HTS and our mascot was the winner. 480i upscaled to 1080p from the DV-79 to the DLA-HD1 (Also mine)(Somehow I think the showrrom is my second home now :|) SD-DVD has never been so gorgeous, it's watchable!


Thanks for making this thread, and poisoning me into buying this masterpiece.


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the 890 and the D2 works perfect.
> 
> 
> Jeremy




Thank you for your contribution!


----------



## slots1

Anyone in the Chicago area that wants to share with me their D2 stories and what equipment they are using. I thought since the center speaker is mainly for dialogue, it would not matter if the big amps are on your left and right speakers. In my case the Thiel 2.3.

I will probably not be set up for another two weeks in the HT. The D2 is in stock but the A5 is on order for delivery end of next week.

Has anyone compared the A5 and A2 with the P5 and P2? Do most of you have a 5.1 or a 7.1 setup? And do you believe the 7.1 is worth the investment, since in most cases it is artifically produced?


Gerry


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If the basics are working, the glitches are going to be at places where the cadence changes in an unusual manner (i.e., bad edits), and also where video-based content is spliced into what's otherwise film-based content.
> 
> 
> The bad edits should be just a matter of how quickly the D2 picks up the cadence again. The Gennum stuff seems very fast at that. So that should not be a problem. The problem up to now appears to have been that when the Gennum lost the cadence then, for some reason when generating /24Hz output, it didn't find it again.
> 
> 
> But films with video-based clips inserted in the stream can be more of a problem. That's because content that originated as /30Hz or /60Hz can't really be presented smoothly at /24Hz. If you are watching a film that happens to have a lot of that, you will likely be happier using /60Hz output from the D2 since normal cadence judder of the film-based portions is so easy for the brain to ignore anyway.
> 
> 
> There may also be a problem from stuff with unusual cadences.
> 
> --Bob




I think the cadence problem is still there. I watched most of one of the Matrix movies tonight and it lost cadence twice while I was watching. I had to reset it by changing back to 1080p/60 output and then returning to 1080p/24. I don't know if this will happen in most movies or not, but if it does, then it is still a problem. I've been spoiled by watching Blu Ray 24p and tend to notice irregular motion a lot more than I used to.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think the cadence problem is still there. I watched most of one of the Matrix movies tonight and it lost cadence twice while I was watching. I had to reset it by changing back to 1080p/60 output and then returning to 1080p/24. I don't know if this will happen in most movies or not, but if it does, then it is still a problem. I've been spoiled by watching Blu Ray 24p and tend to notice irregular motion a lot more than I used to.



Don't lose heart. It's just a matter of them working through the cases. As I recall there are less than a dozen combos of bad edit types that need to be sorted out. There are some delay parameters that probably need to be tweaked as well.


This is real progress. They just need to refine the details now.


EDITED TO ADD: You might want to check with Nick on whether it would help them to get specific time codes in specific movies where the cadence gets screwed up.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't lose heart. It's just a matter of them working through the cases. As I recall there are less than a dozen combos of bad edit types that need to be sorted out. There are some delay parameters that probably need to be tweaked as well.
> 
> 
> This is real progress. They just need to refine the details now.
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: You might want to check with Nick on whether it would help them to get specific time codes in specific movies where the cadence gets screwed up.
> 
> --Bob



I agree Bob, this is definitely real progress!


I think your idea of Randall sending the time codes to Nick is a good one. We appreciate this Randall!


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I got my Sony VLP50 up and running, projecting to a bed sheet the stewart screen is still a week or so out. I can tell now it will be great.


I got a monoprice 50' hdmi cable and it works great 1080p60. I have a 50' gefen fiber optic cable coming monday.


If I am not seeing any issues with the monoprice will the fiber optic show any improvement?


Is there a easy way with the remote to switch from video 1 to video 2 and back again without entering the setup mode? I will be using the pj at night and my sony tv, 1080i/720p, during the day?


I have to say Anthem is great with their upgrades and response.


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't know the details on that player. For example the Sony site doesn't say whether it will output HDMI 480i. But the general guidance for setting up video through the Anthem is written up in the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post -- linked in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I think I have it figured out. I found a old post from a while ago you wrote about tunring off progressive and some other settings and it works perfect!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I love Anthem. Looks to me like the 1.12s may have solved the inverse telecine for 24p playback from various sources. I've watched about 15 minutes of Chronicles of Riddick on HDDVD at 24p and didn't see a glitch. I also watched a few minutes of an SD DVD at 24p with the same results. I'm fairly excited about this as I wasn't expecting this so soon. I don't know if it is glitch free on 24p, but it has been for the short times I've watched. I've only tested at 1080i. My frame lock also works again, but it doesn't seem to be needed for 24P playback.
> 
> 
> I haven't checked my BDP HD1 yet to see if it has corrected the locking up problem, because mine hasn't been locking up since I tried to reinstall the old firmware on the
> 
> Pioneer. Well, that's about it for now, I need to watch some more movies to see if I can find anything wrong. I also want to test 480i output at 24p. Oh, I did get a pink screen again the first time I turned on the XA2.



This is pretty cool.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Let's just say with these recent reports, I have never been any closer!



Contrarily to the BDP-HD1 upgrade, this 1.12s is safe and with your RS1 will provide a solid 1080p24.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been spoiled by watching Blu Ray 24p and tend to notice irregular motion a lot more than I used to.



Sadly I took me a weeks to become 1080p24 addict.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone in the Chicago area that wants to share with me their D2 stories and what equipment they are using. I thought since the center speaker is mainly for dialogue, it would not matter if the big amps are on your left and right speakers. In my case the Thiel 2.3.
> 
> I will probably not be set up for another two weeks in the HT. The D2 is in stock but the A5 is on order for delivery end of next week.
> 
> Has anyone compared the A5 and A2 with the P5 and P2? Do most of you have a 5.1 or a 7.1 setup? And do you believe the 7.1 is worth the investment, since in most cases it is artifically produced?
> 
> 
> Gerry



I'm not in Chicagoland, but I will share my 7.1 experience. I've gone thru a number of iterations of 5.1, then 7.1 speaker/amp combinations, and have several personal observations that seem relevant to your questions. You may have concluded much of this already, if so just take it as validation of your own opinions. If your experience is different I'd appreciate hearing about it.


- The center *must* have the same tonal characteristics as the L and R, particularly for any music content. I wasn't happy until I had identical L/C/R speakers.


- For most material, the center doesn't require the same HP as the L/R, but some material, e.g. _Chicago_ or _DK Live in Paris_, has just as much, if not more, C music content as does the L and R. I now have a KAV-250a/3 driving L/C/R speakers (500w/ch into my 4 ohm Magnepan 3.6's)


- L/R surrounds don't need quite the same tonal match or power as the L/C/R, but shouldn't be too different. I was very unhappy with the Maggies up front and Def Tech surrounds (huge tonal mismatch), then tried 3.6's for surrounds (identical to L/C/R but overkill), and now have Maggie 1.6's for L/R surrounds which are close enough to the 3.6 L/C/R even though not identical.


- Before commenting on Rear surrounds I need to make the following disclaimer: most (all?) of the material I'm listening to is from a 5.1 source with the rear surrounds being synthesized by the D2. My opinion may change when I get some experience with 7.1 source material being faithfully passed thru the D2 to the rear surrounds. (I think this will require a firmware update to the D2.) In any case, with today's 5.1 to 7.1 synthesized rear content, the speakers are much less critical for tonal match or power. To my ear anyway, their effect is far more subliminal than the side surrounds. Don't take me to mean that they don't make a difference - just that the ear (mine anyway) is far less sensitive to their acoustic fidelity. (I have Magnepan MMGs for now).


- Sub: a properly positioned and equalized sub of high enough quality to reproduce tight bass is more important than the size or number of subs. (but go for both if you have the space and budget) If the sub "booms" you'll notice it all the time, whereas if the sub (gracefully) limits on the 1812 canon shot you'll only miss that occasionally.


Even though slightly OT, I feel compelled to say that acoustic treatment of the room gave me just as much improvement as any change of speaker or amp.


----------



## slots1

Thank you 3no.

All my 5.1 speakers are Thiel and give the same tonal balance. I tend to think at the moment and i guess you agree that 7.1 is interesting but not a requirement for overall enjoyment.

I was just wondering if I bought bigger amps for the L/R of Anthem the P2 would it make a difference.

Anyway cannot wait to set everything up...

gerry


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Contrarily to the BDP-HD1 upgrade, this 1.12s is safe and with your RS1 will provide a solid 1080p24.



It certainly sounds that way. But I get the distinct feeling that we are getting very close to a full/official FW release, so I will probably hold off for a couple more weeks. If we don't have one by then, I will ask Nick for 1.12s and take my chances.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got my Sony VLP50 up and running, projecting to a bed sheet the stewart screen is still a week or so out. I can tell now it will be great.
> 
> 
> I got a monoprice 50' hdmi cable and it works great 1080p60. I have a 50' gefen fiber optic cable coming monday.
> 
> 
> If I am not seeing any issues with the monoprice will the fiber optic show any improvement?
> 
> 
> Is there a easy way with the remote to switch from video 1 to video 2 and back again without entering the setup mode? I will be using the pj at night and my sony tv, 1080i/720p, during the day?
> 
> 
> I have to say Anthem is great with their upgrades and response.



Presuming the fiber optic cable works, I'd switch to using that one. Running a metal wire cable for 50 feet is pushing your luck. While both are working you should notice no difference between them, but it wouldn't take much corrosion or aging, or addition of adapters for the metal wire cable to stop working, particularly at 1080p/60.


To switch between the two video output configurations, set up two source input devices (i.e., DVD1 vs. DVD2, or DVD1 vs TV1 even since you can change the names) which are identical except that video 1 is specified in 1 and video 2 in the other. Then use the remote to select between them whenever you want to switch. This is the same thing you'd do if you wanted to use both speaker configuration setups (Cinema and Music) from one device.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I think I have it figured out. I found a old post from a while ago you wrote about tunring off progressive and some other settings and it works perfect!



That's great! There are lots of links collected in the first post of this thread to other posts in this thread which spell out additional tips and tricks.


Have fun playing!

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Bob,


As always excellent advice.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sadly I took me a weeks to become 1080p24 addict.



Sad but true. It's not quite as bad as being addicted to "perfect de-interlacing", but knowing what judder-free video can look like will now make it even more painful to watch movies at any friend's house. Try not to lose too many friends due to this!


Frankly I think when they finally get the 1080i/60 (or 480i/60) to 1080p/24 stuff working completely correctly this will have an even bigger impact. Up to now, folks have been convinced that HDTV movie quality is already as good as it can possibly get (if they have a pristine HDTV feed from their supplier). But add judder-free movie viewing to perfect 1080i to 1080p de-interlacing (which already exits in the Anthem) viewed on a proper 1080p display and it really does get better.


But remember, pointing out imaging defects in your friends' TV setups is not a good way to keep them as friends.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But remember, pointing out imaging defects in your friends' TV setups is not a good way to keep them as friends.
> 
> --Bob



Perhaps not, but it could be a good way to steer them towards the purchase of an Anthem D2/AVM50!


----------



## Randall Morton

I tried watching a little 480i from the BDP HD1 with an SD DVD last night and the motion didn't look natural. I don't know how to explain it but it was different. 1080i seemed to work much better but using the same SD DVD it would lose cadence the same as HD DVD. I'm not sure if it is losing at the same spot every time, it will just take more time to do some more watching. I'm getting ready to leave for my lakehouse for a couple of days so I won't be able to test more until I return.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Making SDTV Programs Fill a 16:9 Screen Without Distortion
*

The question about cropping and stretching an SDTV image to fill a 16:9 screen left to right without distortion got me doing a bit of experimenting.


First off, if you want to fill the screen left to right and don't want to distort the image (i.e., circles still look like circles instead of wide ovals) then you HAVE TO lose a portion of the SDTV image off the top and bottom. That's because the 4:3 shape of the SDTV image and the 16:9 shape of the screen are different. To get the squarer SDTV shape to fill the wider 16:9 screen without distortion means that some part of the SDTV image has to be lost off the top and bottom.


All of these adjustments are made in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key). The adjustments are remembered on a per-input basis in the Anthem.


======================================================


WARNING 1: DO NOT USE SCALE OUT = ZOOM FOR NORMAL VIEWING! It will result in significantly poorer image quality. The Zoom function is applied AFTER the input image is scaled, and thus rounding errors will appear. It also screws up the film/video cadence processing and so you will get jerky motion. The Zoom function should only be used for temporary analysis of your imaging. It can be useful, for example, when investigating your display geometry during setup.


WARNING 2: DO NOT HAVE 480i or 480p (4:3) SOURCES GENERATE PILLAR BOX BARS FOR YOU! Your 480i and 480p sources, when playing 4:3 content, should be set to FILL a 16:9 TV screen by what is usually described in their manuals as uniform stretching. The result is that circles look like wide ovals and the wide ovals are identical regardless of where in the picture the circle is located. Although this appears, and is often described, as the source "stretching" the image, in reality what is going on is that the source is doing NOTHING to the image. A 16:9 TV simply interprets each pixel as wider than its true shape. If you want pillar box bars generated so that you can see your 480i/480p content in its original shape, LET THE ANTHEM DO IT! The Anthem generates these bars at the higher resolution coming out of its scaler. That means you don't waste horizontal resolution by taking up a portion of each line with pillar box pixels. Heeding this advice can dramatically improve, in particular, horizontal color resolution from your 480i/480p sources.


======================================================


Back to making SDTV fill a 16:9 screen without distortion:


For true SDTV sources (480i or 480p input), the way to do this is simply to specify Crop Input = 16:9. When you do that, it doesn't matter whether your Scale Out is set to Anamorphic or Letter/Pillar Box since neither one of those has any work to do when you crop the input video to 16:9 for display on a 16:9 screen.


However, Crop Input = 16:9 won't work if you are watching an SDTV program that is being broadcast by an HDTV station. That's because the HDTV station is generating the pillar boxes left and right to pad out the image and thus the input image is ALREADY 16:9, even though the part in the middle of the screen you are actually watching is 4:3.


But you can handle that sort of input by setting a Custom Crop setting. Now doing the math for this can be a little bit confusing because HDTV pixels are square and SDTV pixels are non-square. For example, when you divide 1920/1080 you get 1.7777 and that's the same thing you get if you divide 16/9.


But if you divide 720/480 on the other hand you get 1.5, whereas 4/3 is 1.3333. That's because the SDTV pixels are non-square. They are interpreted as rectangles slightly taller than they are wide so that the shape you see on the screen is still a true 4:3.


Now an SDTV image embedded in an HDTV frame fills the full height of the frame -- 1080 lines. That means the width of each line in the embedded 4:3 image is 1080x1.3333 = 1440 pixels across (since the HDTV pixels are square).


If you want to crop the image to a 16:9 shape, then you need to calculate the height in lines that gives a 16:9 image when the image is 1440 pixels across. That's 1440/1.7777 = 810 lines.


So if you set a Custom Crop which is 1440 pixels horizontal width by 810 lines vertical height -- centered on the image -- then you will extract the 16:9 subset of an SDTV image embedded in an HDTV frame.


And once again, since you've cropped the source input to 16:9, both Anamorphic and Letter/Pillar Box will determine they have no work to do to make that source input match the video output shape for your screen -- only the resolution will be scaled. So you can leave Scale Out as EITHER Anamorphic or Letter/Pillar Box.


So if you enter that Custom Crop then:


* When viewing an SDTV channel or an HDTV channel broadcasting an HDTV program, you can select Crop Input = 16:9


* When viewing an HDTV channel broadcasting an SDTV program (where the broadcaster has already provided pillar box bars around that program), you can select Crop Input = Custom.


In either case the Scale Out can be either Anamorphic or Letter/Pillar Box since neither of them will need to stretch or pad the shape. (Only the resolution will be scaled).


The result is that your HDTV programs will fill the screen normally and your SDTV programs will fill the screen left to right (without distortion) at the expense of losing some of the image off the top and bottom of the screen.


NOTE: For some HDTV channels broadcasting an embedded SDTV program, you may still see a little bit of their studio-generated pillar box in the image output from the Anthem, or other odd stuff around the edges. That's simply because the broadcast station hasn't been completely precise in the way it generated the embedding of the SDTV program. If that bothers you, rather than adjusting your Custom Crop setting, you might want to experiment with Crop Input / Edges On (and pick a number for the edge size that works for you). Edges On generates a strip of extra cropping all the way around the input video.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Perhaps not, but it could be a good way to steer them towards the purchase of an Anthem D2/AVM50!



Rob, When you had your recent experience with Marc in the studio did you get any sense of the target configuration that would have been considered either likely or at best ideal?


The studio monitors used to proof the production, were they matched all around?


Was there any obvious mention or attention given to the rears?


Did you get the impression that any attention given to the rears was for general acoustical ambience or for specific directional affect?


Based on your visit to the studio how would you describe the target configuration closest to the originating intent using the D2?


Any comments that Marc may wish to make as well would be most appreciated.


I would especially appreciate any comments on the ideal targeted config for subs as it seems to me that we spend a great deal of time calibrating for some sense of an ideal but Marc's experience in this context would almost be more relevant to the majority of folks on this thread.


Peter


PS. So far we have two for the bar in Denver.......I'm buying..........anyone else want to join Marc and I?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Making SDTV Programs Fill a 16:9 Screen Without Distortion
> *
> 
> --Bob


*Bob* --- I hope you have Levesque post these great instructions

in the front of this forum also - so it will be included in the great

library of instructions.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Bob* --- I hope you have Levesque post these great instructions
> 
> in the front of this forum also - so it will be included in the great
> 
> library of instructions.




I couldn't agree more.............


Alain????




Peter


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob, When you had your recent experience with Marc in the studio did you get any sense of the target configuration that would have been considered either likely or at best ideal?



In a word: no.


There was far too much going on for me to even pay much attention to this. I was in such awe of what I was experiencing I could barely absorb it all! Watching Rob Reiner actually simulate sound effects verbally to indicate what he wanted/didn't want was fascinating/entertaining/impressive! I couldn't get enough!



> Quote:
> The studio monitors used to proof the production, were they matched all around?



I will let Marc answer that. I know they are using JBL's, and I believe Marc said they were using over 15,000 watts.



> Quote:
> Was there any obvious mention or attention given to the rears?
> 
> 
> Did you get the impression that any attention given to the rears was for general acoustical ambience or for specific directional affect?



When you say "rears", are you talking about a 7.1 mix? I don't believe this was a 7.1 mix. Marc can clarify.



> Quote:
> Based on your visit to the studio how would you describe the target configuration closest to the originating intent using the D2?
> 
> 
> Any comments that Marc may wish to make as well would be most appreciated.
> 
> 
> I would especially appreciate any comments on the ideal targeted config for subs as it seems to me that we spend a great deal of time calibrating for some sense of an ideal but Marc's experience in this context would almost be more relevant to the majority of folks on this thread.



I will let Marc chime in here too as this is just over my head.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Bob* --- I hope you have Levesque post these great instructions
> 
> in the front of this forum also - so it will be included in the great
> 
> library of instructions.



Yeah, this one should go in the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling collection.


We also still need to add the link to the note on recovering if you accidentally turn on Frame Lock and lose your picture (should go in the Setup section):

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post10845386 


--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In a word: no.
> 
> 
> There was far too much going on for me to even pay much attention to this. I was in such awe of what I was experiencing I could barely absorb it all! Watching Rob Reiner actually simulate sound effects verbally to indicate what he wanted/didn't want was fascinating/entertaining/impressive! I couldn't get enough!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will let Marc answer that. I know they are using JBL's, and I believe Marc said they were using over 15,000 watts.



Thanks Rob,


15000 watts eh............ Hank will just have to throttle back a bit and that comment is going to cost me a small fortune.......lets see that would be 6 P5's into 4 ohm speakers or 15 P2's.


I wasn't so much fixing on 7.1 as much as an awareness of dimensionality in a discrete sense. The forward, back or space positioning of the acoustical landscape. As a community I know the majority of participants go to great lengths to ensure as acurate and clean transparency to the fabric of sound even to the point of conditioning the very materials used in and on the walls. I am curious to know if the artists who create this art are aware and in fact play to our penchant for auditory perfection. We Were Soldiers and U571 are examples (that Marc knows about) where I presumed that perception and I was hoping for some vindication in your experience.


Bringing this home to the purpose of this thread, I believe that we are extremely fortunate to have marc in this group who has adopted a critical piece of technology, again I presume (hope) as it helps honour the result that he is intimately familiar with in the final mix to full production. Soon we will be seriously calibrating the D2 and I for one will look forward to his feedback.


And Bob Pariseau will catalogue all of it in the AVS forum Galatic encyclopedia!!!!!!


Peter


----------



## ANSEK

My D2 and A5 finally arrived. I swapped out my old Denon 2801, a component switch, and a digital audio switch for the two Statement units and WOW what a difference. I still have not completely calibrated the video on the unit but the scaling of my HD TiVo and SD TiVo to 1080p is amazing.


I have a few questions for my fellow brothers in processors?


1) Is anyone using a TSU7000 Pronto Pro or TSU3000 Pronto? I have a TSU7000 and seek discrete Power On and Off codes. Why stop at power. Anyone have a good configuration file they are willing to share? There is only one posted at remotecentral.com and it is not cooperating with me.


2) Due to room limitations, my couch backs up to a wall, I use a 5.1 configuration. The D2 manual says all rear information is sent to the surrounds when the rears are set to "none". Given THX Ultra2 is designed to for 7.1 is there any benefit to using THX Ultra2 processing for DD and DTS?


I am so excited I am going to stay up all night watching movies until I pass out. I just finished Smokin' Aces on HD-DVD. Next is the Sentinal on Blu-ray.


Don't forget my mascots.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a few questions for my fellow brothers in processors?
> 
> 
> 1) Is anyone using a TSU7000 Pronto Pro or TSU3000 Pronto? I have a TSU7000 and seek discrete Power On and Off codes. Why stop at power. Anyone have a good configuration file they are willing to share? There is only one posted at remotecentral.com and it is not cooperating with me.



Here is the CCF page on the Anthem website.. there are files here:

Anthem's Remote CCF's


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob, When you had your recent experience with Marc in the studio did you get any sense of the target configuration that would have been considered either likely or at best ideal?
> 
> 
> The studio monitors used to proof the production, were they matched all around?
> 
> 
> Was there any obvious mention or attention given to the rears?
> 
> 
> Did you get the impression that any attention given to the rears was for general acoustical ambience or for specific directional affect?
> 
> 
> Based on your visit to the studio how would you describe the target configuration closest to the originating intent using the D2?
> 
> 
> Any comments that Marc may wish to make as well would be most appreciated.
> 
> 
> I would especially appreciate any comments on the ideal targeted config for subs as it seems to me that we spend a great deal of time calibrating for some sense of an ideal but Marc's experience in this context would almost be more relevant to the majority of folks on this thread.
> 
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> PS. So far we have two for the bar in Denver.......I'm buying..........anyone else want to join Marc and I?



I will reply in detail to your question in a couple of days when I have some time for a lengthy reply..


Marc.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 2) Due to room limitations, my couch backs up to a wall, I use a 5.1 configuration. The D2 manual says all rear information is sent to the surrounds when the rears are set to "none". Given THX Ultra2 is designed to for 7.1 is there any benefit to using THX Ultra2 processing for DD and DTS?
> 
> 
> I am so excited I am going to stay up all night watching movies until I pass out. I just finished Smokin' Aces on HD-DVD. Next is the Sentinal on Blu-ray.
> 
> 
> Don't forget my mascots.



The THX Ultra2 audio options for the surround speakers are not enabled if you only use a 5.1 configuration. The extra processing is intended to improve the experience in a 7.1 configuration.


I recommend a 7.1 configuration only when it is physically convenient to set one up. In your case it isn't and you shouldn't try to force one by, say, mounting speakers on the wall above the center of your couch. You will be very happy with your 5.1 configuration when you finish setting everything up.


---------------------------------------------


And of course you'll need these:






































--Bob


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is the CCF page on the Anthem website.. there are files here:
> 
> Anthem's Remote CCF's



FilmMixer - Thank you for the link. This will come in handy.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The THX Ultra2 audio options for the surround speakers are not enabled if you only use a 5.1 configuration. The extra processing is intended to improve the experience in a 7.1 configuration.
> 
> 
> I recommend a 7.1 configuration only when it is physically convenient to set one up. In your case it isn't and you shouldn't try to force one by, say, mounting speakers on the wall above the center of your couch. You will be very happy with your 5.1 configuration when you finish setting everything up.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> And of course you'll need these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob - I knew you wouldn't let me down. Love the mascots.


----------



## Trigger44

This is for SLOTS1


I purchased a D2 and A5 amp early April 07. All of the Anthem amps are 2 or

5 channel, no 7 to choose from. I have a 6.1 system so I had to mess around with

a second amp, drove me nuts besides the A5 seemed to be lacking something. I tried first a Onkyo M282b, after two weeks that was traded for a Parasound A23.

By this time I had little hair left to pull out and said the hell with it and traded the

A23 for a McIntosh MC 207 (7) channel. Wow, solved the second amp problem +

made a very noticeable improvement in the sound quality. I to considered going to

a P5 but didn't need all the power and didn't think I would get an improvement

in sound quality. My speakers nearly are all Paradigm, (2) S4's + C3 center + (2) ADP's for surrounds. the back is a Klipsch RC-35. Hope this helps.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1) Is anyone using a TSU7000 Pronto Pro or TSU3000 Pronto? I have a TSU7000 and seek discrete Power On and Off codes. Why stop at power. Anyone have a good configuration file they are willing to share? There is only one posted at remotecentral.com and it is not cooperating with me.



I initially got the TSU7000 IR codes from Anthem's web site and incorporated the codes into my PCF. I then created my GUI based on Daniel Tonk's GUI. If you use Tonk's graphics, check out this PCF, which contains GUI for the D2:

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...angoba_pro.zip 


The GUI is in the device named "Preamp". The actual codes (originally came from Anthem) are in the device named "A: Anthem Statement D2 - Main" (there's separate devices for the other zones). Note that my devices are configured to use RF (I use an RFX 6500). If you use IR directly, you'll need to change the devices' properties to use IR.


I don't recall what, if any tweaks I may have done on the D2 codes that originally came from Anthem. I may have adjusted some delay or duration values to make the TSU7000 happy.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 2) Due to room limitations, my couch backs up to a wall, I use a 5.1 configuration. The D2 manual says all rear information is sent to the surrounds when the rears are set to "none". Given THX Ultra2 is designed to for 7.1 is there any benefit to using THX Ultra2 processing for DD and DTS?
> 
> Don't forget my mascots.



If you can spare any extra room, I would try to pull the couch forward at least a 1 or 1.5 feet from the back of the room. In my experience, music sounds significantly better when seated away from the back wall (something to do with delaying early reflections and increasing the time difference when the direct sound reaches your ears versus the reflected sound reaching your ears). If you can spare the space, you may want to experiment pulling out the couch.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you can spare any extra room, I would try to pull the couch forward at least a 1 or 1.5 feet from the back of the room. In my experience, music sounds significantly better when seated away from the back wall (something to do with delaying early reflections and increasing the time difference when the direct sound reaches your ears versus the reflected sound reaching your ears). If you can spare the space, you may want to experiment pulling out the couch.




Or you could try some room treatments that absorb the first reflection point.


----------



## slots1

Trigger...

You are the first one that have seen on the site that said something negative about A5.

What does it was lacking something mean? Anyone else who has the A5 want to say something..

Gerry


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Trigger...
> 
> You are the first one that have seen on the site that said something negative about A5.
> 
> What does it was lacking something mean? Anyone else who has the A5 want to say something..
> 
> Gerry



Well, for what it's worth, I run the A5 for my Main Zone with B&W 703 fronts, HTM7 center and CCM-80 in-ceiling surrounds, and I can only say that the A5 has been an efficient workhorse of an amp. The 703's are not the most demanding speaker in the world, but they do like to be pushed pretty hard, and the A5 has always had power to spare. I also use an A2 for Zone 2 amplification, and there too, the A series has been a perfect match. I find it has a very neutral, very silent backdrop, with good clean power to control the B&W's with a tight fist. I have never wanted for more power in this system, and I play extremely varied, dynamic movies and music to very loud levels at times.


In summary, my neighbors are the only ones that would LOVE to see my A5/A2 disappear from this system. Frankly, they'd have to pull them from my cold, dead hands.


Hope this helps,

-Brian


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will reply in detail to your question in a couple of days when I have some time for a lengthy reply..
> 
> 
> Marc.



Thanks Marc, I would really appreciate it.......



Peter


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Trigger...
> 
> You are the first one that have seen on the site that said something negative about A5.
> 
> What does it was lacking something mean? Anyone else who has the A5 want to say something..
> 
> Gerry



I do have an anthem 7 amp unit and it works fine.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I initially got the TSU7000 IR codes from Anthem's web site and incorporated the codes into my PCF. I then created my GUI based on Daniel Tonk's GUI. If you use Tonk's graphics, check out this PCF, which contains GUI for the D2:
> 
> http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...angoba_pro.zip
> 
> 
> The GUI is in the device named "Preamp". The actual codes (originally came from Anthem) are in the device named "A: Anthem Statement D2 - Main" (there's separate devices for the other zones). Note that my devices are configured to use RF (I use an RFX 6500). If you use IR directly, you'll need to change the devices' properties to use IR.



Wow. Your setup (and lots of similar components, may convert me back to a Pronto :0


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I initially got the TSU7000 IR codes from Anthem's web site and incorporated the codes into my PCF. I then created my GUI based on Daniel Tonk's GUI. If you use Tonk's graphics, check out this PCF, which contains GUI for the D2:
> 
> http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...angoba_pro.zip
> 
> 
> The GUI is in the device named "Preamp". The actual codes (originally came from Anthem) are in the device named "A: Anthem Statement D2 - Main" (there's separate devices for the other zones). Note that my devices are configured to use RF (I use an RFX 6500). If you use IR directly, you'll need to change the devices' properties to use IR.
> 
> 
> I don't recall what, if any tweaks I may have done on the D2 codes that originally came from Anthem. I may have adjusted some delay or duration values to make the TSU7000 happy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can spare any extra room, I would try to pull the couch forward at least a 1 or 1.5 feet from the back of the room. In my experience, music sounds significantly better when seated away from the back wall (something to do with delaying early reflections and increasing the time difference when the direct sound reaches your ears versus the reflected sound reaching your ears). If you can spare the space, you may want to experiment pulling out the couch.



randman - Thank you. I use Daniel Tonk's GUI with some small modifications so this should be a simple integration.



I wish I had the room to push the couch up a couple feet but do to the weird configuration of my house, I only have 11 feet from my seating position to the TV (60" Sony SXRD). I 'm in the process of buying a new house to address these issues.


----------



## ajeruns

Well I installed 1.12s into my AVM-50 today and the Sony Blu-Ray BDP-S300 still will not work with HDMI unless I do the work around in source set up. Also, I watched Fast and Furious in HD-DVD through my XA2 and periodically checked the film mode and it never showed it as being on or active. Guess I'll by sending another e mail to Nick.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow. Your setup (and lots of similar components, may convert me back to a Pronto :0



Pronto is great, as long as you have lots of free time to devote to programming it. A little OT, but FYI, the TSU7500 will be phased out in September for new models.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> randman - Thank you. I use Daniel Tonk's GUI with some small modifications so this should be a simple integration.
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I had the room to push the couch up a couple feet but do to the weird configuration of my house, I only have 11 feet from my seating position to the TV (60" Sony SXRD). I 'm in the process of buying a new house to address these issues.



FYI, I found the following viewing distance calculator very useful when setting up my system:

http://www.myhometheater.homestead.c...alculator.html 



FYI, it says that, for a 60" screen, the "recommended THX viewing distance is 6.7 feet".


Good luck in your new house!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FYI, I found the following viewing distance calculator very useful when setting up my system:
> 
> http://www.myhometheater.homestead.c...alculator.html
> 
> 
> 
> FYI, it says that, for a 60" screen, the "recommended THX viewing distance is 6.7 feet".
> 
> 
> Good luck in your new house!



That recommended viewing distance is particularly cool if you have the ability to make both of your eyes swing towards the outside at the same time....


Seriously, there's no problem being this close to a 60" display so long as you have some backlighting around the display cutting down the contrast between the display itself and the surrounding wall behind it. If the wall behind the display is totally dark, this distance to the display will result in a lot of eye strain.


Personally, I get itchy if I'm this close to a 50" display.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I installed 1.12s into my AVM-50 today and the Sony Blu-Ray BDP-S300 still will not work with HDMI unless I do the work around in source set up. Also, I watched Fast and Furious in HD-DVD through my XA2 and periodically checked the film mode and it never showed it as being on or active. Guess I'll by sending another e mail to Nick.



Keep beating on Nick. He loves it....

--Bob


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FYI, I found the following viewing distance calculator very useful when setting up my system:
> 
> http://www.myhometheater.homestead.c...alculator.html
> 
> 
> 
> FYI, it says that, for a 60" screen, the "recommended THX viewing distance is 6.7 feet".
> 
> 
> Good luck in your new house!




I am all for the THX experience but I am not a fan of having to look left and right to see an entire scene. I understand why this distance is important but it is not for me.


I have a 50" in my bedroom and I tried sitting the recommended 5.6 feet from the screen and it wasn't the experience I desire. I will say watching "Ultimate Roller Coasters" on Discovery HD did make me puke.


I did consider going 70" but that would of caused me to "lose half on the trade in" if you get my drift.


----------



## djhamilton

I have been trying to read through this forum to find out how to properly set my AVM50 for 1080p/24 output to my Sony VW50 (pearl). I have a PS3 and a Tosh HD-A2 connected by HDMI to the AVM50 and HDMI from the AVM50 to the Sony projector. I am not sure the Tosh HD-A2 can do 1080p/24 but the PS3 is supposed to and the projector I think can handle it. I am just not sure of all the settings that have to be in place to take advantage of this "holy grail" 1080p/24 stuff. By reading through the forum it sounds like you should use 1080p/24 if you can. I am not sure I understand all the jargon I read in the AVM manual about frame lock and such.


Can anyone shed some light for a intermediate enthusiast?


thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djhamilton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been trying to read through this forum to find out how to properly set my AVM50 for 1080p/24 output to my Sony VW50 (pearl). I have a PS3 and a Tosh HD-A2 connected by HDMI to the AVM50 and HDMI from the AVM50 to the Sony projector. I am not sure the Tosh HD-A2 can do 1080p/24 but the PS3 is supposed to and the projector I think can handle it. I am just not sure of all the settings that have to be in place to take advantage of this "holy grail" 1080p/24 stuff. By reading through the forum it sounds like you should use 1080p/24 if you can. I am not sure I understand all the jargon I read in the AVM manual about frame lock and such.
> 
> 
> Can anyone shed some light for a intermediate enthusiast?
> 
> 
> thanks,



This is in the process of changing as Anthem has been working on this area of their HDMI handling.


If you are on the current official Anthem software verison -- anything earlier than V1.12 -- my suggestion would be you hold off on this until the next official release, which should be coming soon. Although some people have made 1080p/24 in to 1080p/24 out work with the older software (using Frame Lock to transfer the input frame rate to the Anthem's video output), it is an iffy proposition and you will likely just end up frustrating yourself.


If you are on one of the recent Beta "test" software releases -- V1.12s is the latest -- then the easiest way to do this is to not use the Frame Lock stuff to begin with. The V1.12 software includes two video output setups -- much like the earlier software includes two speaker configuration setups. Set one of them to 1080p/60 output and set the other to 1080p/24 output. Then set up two overlayed inputs in the Anthem for a given source device that's capable of playing 1080p/24 to the Anthem -- one of which specifies the first video output configuration and the other of which specifies the second.


Select the input that uses the 1080p/60 output normally. Once the movie starts playing at 1080p/24 from the player to the Anthem, switch to the Anthem input that uses the 1080p/24 output.


The Frame Lock stuff can be used to automate some of these transitions, but for now, just selecting the input that produces the desired output (of the 2 possible Anthem output configurations) should do the trick for you. Again, this is in the upcoming software -- now out in test version as V1.12s.

--Bob


----------



## djhamilton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is in the process of changing as Anthem has been working on this area of their HDMI handling.
> 
> 
> If you are on the current official Anthem software verison -- anything earlier than V1.12 -- my suggestion would be you hold off on this until the next official release, which should be coming soon. Although some people have made 1080p/24 in to 1080p/24 out work with the older software (using Frame Lock to transfer the input frame rate to the Anthem's video output), it is an iffy proposition and you will likely just end up frustrating yourself.
> 
> 
> If you are on one of the recent Beta "test" software releases -- V1.12s is the latest -- then the easiest way to do this is to not use the Frame Lock stuff to begin with. The V1.12 software includes two video output setups -- much like the earlier software includes two speaker configuration setups. Set one of them to 1080p/60 output and set the other to 1080p/24 output. Then set up two overlayed inputs in the Anthem for a given source device that's capable of playing 1080p/24 to the Anthem -- one of which specifies the first video output configuration and the other of which specifies the second.
> 
> 
> Select the input that uses the 1080p/60 output normally. Once the movie starts playing at 1080p/24 from the player to the Anthem, switch to the Anthem input that uses the 1080p/24 output.
> 
> 
> The Frame Lock stuff can be used to automate some of these transitions, but for now, just selecting the input that produces the desired output (of the 2 possible Anthem output configurations) should do the trick for you. Again, this is in the upcoming software -- now out in test version as V1.12s.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you for this info. I will wait until the next official release to play with this.


----------



## Brian P. Hearon

Just received email from Nick regarding this issue and he recommended using the beta software but also stated the problem lies with Sony and Pioneer. If the problem truly is with Sony and/or Pioneer, then why would Anthem releasing new software cure the problem. It doesn't make sense logically for that to be the case. These solutions posted above should be applauded for the ingenuity but is quite inconvenient. My solution may be returning the Sony BDP300 and waiting until this is resolved.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djhamilton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been trying to read through this forum to find out how to properly set my AVM50 for 1080p/24 output to my Sony VW50 (pearl). I have a PS3 and a Tosh HD-A2 connected by HDMI to the AVM50 and HDMI from the AVM50 to the Sony projector. I am not sure the Tosh HD-A2 can do 1080p/24 but the PS3 is supposed to and the projector I think can handle it. I am just not sure of all the settings that have to be in place to take advantage of this "holy grail" 1080p/24 stuff. By reading through the forum it sounds like you should use 1080p/24 if you can. I am not sure I understand all the jargon I read in the AVM manual about frame lock and such.
> 
> 
> Can anyone shed some light for a intermediate enthusiast?
> 
> 
> thanks,



What Bob said.










But also, I'm using 1.11e currently and using the Sony BDP300 outputting 1080p24 it works fine. I have 1080p24 output configured to the Pearl and frame lock "active". When anything with 60fps or 30fps is input it automatically switches to 1080p60 output without needing to do anything. This includes pretty much everything that you'd encounter otherwise. When 1080p24 from Blue-ray is input, frame lock goes "inactive" and 1080p24 is passed through to the Pearl.


----------



## abc999

as they


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Let me see if I understand this:
> 
> 
> 1) V1.12q installed without any complaint or error, and initially appeared to be working, but after playing the PS3 for a while your video failed.
> 
> 
> 2) V1.12r ALSO installed without any complaint or error, but no help with the video problems.
> 
> 
> 3) Attempting to go back to the original V1.11 produced numerous install failures -- most of them being the OKI loader failure. You eventually got V1.11 to install without complaint but your video and now also audio over HDMI problems remain.
> 
> 
> All correct?
> 
> 
> OK, your PS3 problem with V1.12q and V1.12r sounds like an overheating problem. This should not be happening but there have been some reports like this with prior versions (notably V1.11g). Adding an external fan to help cool the D2 is a workaround that has worked for other folks. Of course this is something Anthem has to fix.
> 
> 
> Your install problems with the original V1.11 are due to the installer application not working correctly on your computer. This problem was fixed in roughly the V1.11c release. The V1.11e release that you are attempting to get is the correct one for you to use to go back to the V1.11 style of software.
> 
> 
> Your continuing problems after finally reinstalling V1.11 are disturbing. You could have a faulty install (fix it by installing the V1.11e version). But you may also have damaged your HDMI connections.
> 
> 
> Carefully unplug your HDMI connections and, using a flashlight, check each plug and socket for signs of pin damage.
> 
> 
> It is also just possible that Anthem made some change in the V1.12 version which makes it tricky to revert to a V1.11 version. I have not heard any such warnings.
> 
> 
> One possibility is that your settings got messed up when you reverted. You might want to try a Reload Factory Defaults (of your V1.11 software) and then MANUALLY re-entering your settings rather than restoring them from any saved place.
> 
> --Bob



The problem worsen ,I get this message "cannot load OKI boot loader". I cannot pass this part at any install attempted. I finally gave up and sent the unit for service as Nick and Frank at SF as they suggested.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian P. Hearon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just received email from Nick regarding this issue and he recommended using the beta software but also stated the problem lies with Sony and Pioneer. If the problem truly is with Sony and/or Pioneer, then why would Anthem releasing new software cure the problem. It doesn't make sense logically for that to be the case. These solutions posted above should be applauded for the ingenuity but is quite inconvenient. My solution may be returning the Sony BDP300 and waiting until this is resolved.



Odds are Anthem will invent a solution before Sony or Pioneer fix their problems.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> as they
> 
> 
> The problem worsen ,I get this message "cannot load OKI boot loader". I cannot pass this part at any install attempted. I finally gave up and sent the unit for service as Nick and Frank at SF as they suggested.



I'm sorry you had these difficulties, but Anthem will get the unit sorted out for you.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian P. Hearon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just received email from Nick regarding this issue and he recommended using the beta software but also stated the problem lies with Sony and Pioneer. If the problem truly is with Sony and/or Pioneer, then why would Anthem releasing new software cure the problem. It doesn't make sense logically for that to be the case. These solutions posted above should be applauded for the ingenuity but is quite inconvenient. My solution may be returning the Sony BDP300 and waiting until this is resolved.



It is very possible to "hack" around limitations of other manufacturers products. I have commercial software I wrote that looks for the "fingerprint" of some common server software for doing FTP. Their implementation is broken (out of spec) but they aren't going to fix it. So if I see their software is being used, my software will switch to a few special routines to "wire around" the broken part.


I do agree it is stupid to have to do this, but sometimes being right is not enough when you're the little guy.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tried watching a little 480i from the BDP HD1 with an SD DVD last night and the motion didn't look natural. I don't know how to explain it but it was different. 1080i seemed to work much better but using the same SD DVD it would lose cadence the same as HD DVD. I'm not sure if it is losing at the same spot every time, it will just take more time to do some more watching. I'm getting ready to leave for my lakehouse for a couple of days so I won't be able to test more until I return.



I tried that also by accident. Start watching a SD DVD with the BDP-HD1 and it was not good at all and needed to revert to Video Conf 1 (1080p60).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I tried that also by accident. Start watching a SD DVD with the BDP-HD1 and it was not good at all and needed to revert to Video Conf 1 (1080p60).



HDMI 480i requires pixel doubling to get the signal bandwidth up to something that works, which is why so many HDMI devices don't allow it. The pixel doubling has to be removed early in the processing at the receiving end. Of course the Anthem does that correctly for its usual scaling stuff. But it's possible Anthem's new rate conversion algorithm isn't handling that properly yet. It would look more like de-interlacing errors (more properly, tearing of the image) rather than stuttering.


=================================


EDITED TO ADD: If you get a chance, try COMPONENT 480i/60 to HDMI 1080p/24 with film based content and see if that looks better than the HDMI 480i input.

--Bob


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI 480i requires pixel doubling to get the signal bandwidth up to something that works, which is why so many HDMI devices don't allow it. The pixel doubling has to be removed early in the processing at the receiving end. Of course the Anthem does that correctly for its usual scaling stuff. But it's possible Anthem's new rate conversion algorithm isn't handling that properly yet. It would look more like de-interlacing errors (more properly, tearing of the image) rather than stuttering.
> 
> 
> =================================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: If you get a chance, try COMPONENT 480i/60 to HDMI 1080p/24 with film based content and see if that looks better than the HDMI 480i input.
> 
> --Bob



I'm assuming the problem is with V1.12? 480i via HDMI input works fine with 1.11e...

I'm hoping this is fixed by the official release.


Re: 480i film source to 1080p24 output. That would be great if that works with 1.12. Next would be proper 1080p24 output from 1080i film. Then, we'd be all set.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm assuming the problem is with V1.12? 480i via HDMI input works fine with 1.11e...
> 
> I'm hoping this is fixed by the official release.
> 
> 
> Re: 480i film source to 1080p24 output. That would be great if that works with 1.12. Next would be proper 1080p24 output from 1080i film. Then, we'd be all set.



HDMI 480i works just fine in V1.12s, so long as you are not trying to convert it to 24fps output. That's the part we are trying to diagnose.


Normal scaling, e.g., HDMI 480i input to 1080p/60 or 768p/60 or etc. works just fine.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian P. Hearon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just received email from Nick regarding this issue and he recommended using the beta software but also stated the problem lies with Sony and Pioneer. If the problem truly is with Sony and/or Pioneer, then why would Anthem releasing new software cure the problem. It doesn't make sense logically for that to be the case. These solutions posted above should be applauded for the ingenuity but is quite inconvenient. My solution may be returning the Sony BDP300 and waiting until this is resolved.




My understanding is a seamless fix is required by both parties and both parties are cooperatively working it.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My understanding is a seamless fix is required by both parties and both parties are cooperatively working it.



It does make you wonder though. For example, why does 1080p/24 output of my Pioneer Elite Blu-ray player work perfectly going straight to the RS1, but does not work properly when going through the D2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It does make you wonder though. For example, why does 1080p/24 output of my Pioneer Elite Blu-ray player work perfectly going straight to the RS1, but does not work properly when going through the D2?



You are still running V1.11 software right? That means you are running software that does not generate the right video timings for 1080p/24 output.


That's an entirely different problem from the HDMI connection problem that's being sorted out with the new players.

--Bob


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are still running V1.11 software right? That means you are running software that does not generate the right video timings for 1080p/24 output.
> 
> 
> That's an entirely different problem from the HDMI connection problem that's being sorted out with the new players.
> 
> --Bob



Again, 1080p24 from my Sony bdp300 to AVM50 to Sony Pearl works fine. Don't know if there's something else going on with the D2 or what. I'm running 1.11e on my AVM50.


----------



## Trigger44

I do not feel the Anthem A5 was anything less than an amp in that price range should be. A5 at $2700 VS the MC 207 at $8000. Unfair of me to compare the two as equals, they are not.


In my listening room my setup with my speakers to our ears there is no comparison. The Mac is much better. Bass and upper mid range better defined, smoother highs. My wife can't believe the difference. It is was it is, simple as that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Again, 1080p24 from my Sony bdp300 to AVM50 to Sony Pearl works fine. Don't know if there's something else going on with the D2 or what. I'm running 1.11e on my AVM50.



The difference is likely that your Pearl and Rob's RS1 has different sensitivities to video timings. The newer Anthem software fixes that, but apparently the newer HDMI handling in that software exposes a problem in the bdp300's HDMI handshake.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Odds are Anthem will invent a solution before Sony or Pioneer fix their problems.
> 
> --Bob




Sadly true! Anthem reaction time to fix issues is extremely fast compared to Pioneer and Sony.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI 480i requires pixel doubling to get the signal bandwidth up to something that works, which is why so many HDMI devices don't allow it. The pixel doubling has to be removed early in the processing at the receiving end. Of course the Anthem does that correctly for its usual scaling stuff. But it's possible Anthem's new rate conversion algorithm isn't handling that properly yet. It would look more like de-interlacing errors (more properly, tearing of the image) rather than stuttering.
> 
> 
> =================================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: If you get a chance, try COMPONENT 480i/60 to HDMI 1080p/24 with film based content and see if that looks better than the HDMI 480i input.
> 
> --Bob



Not a big deal really. Yesterday I create a Blu-Ray specific input that use the same parameters as my DVD inputs but use video conf 2 (1080p24) while the DVD input use video conf 1 (1080p60).


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It does make you wonder though. For example, why does 1080p/24 output of my Pioneer Elite Blu-ray player work perfectly going straight to the RS1, but does not work properly when going through the D2?



From the Pioneer Elite perspective the D2 is not a display device but a repeater in HDMI/HDCP link. Processing is therefore different. It is difficult to compare a handshake where the source device talk directly with the display devices with a setup where the source device talk directly with the display devices through a repeater in the link. The handshake is different in both cases.


----------



## JeffDL

Help from the experts...........New problem well not all that new just have been living with it for a while.


Updated my XA2 to 1.6fw a while ago and started noticing some audio and video drop outs during HD-DVD play. Only a couple per viewing, would happen on all HD disks. Didn't seem to do this with 1.5fw so I figured it was the player's new fw. Last night I updated the XA2 to 2.0 and am still seeing the same issues, very random audio and video drop out to black screen then it will recover in a few seconds.


So my D2 is running 1.11e which has been the cure all for all of the other issues I have seen. I am starting to think this is not the player but more on the D2 side. When the a/v drops the "HDMI" light on the XA2 stays on but the OSD on the D2 will loose the 1080p and show the volume. So I'm thinking that the player is not having the issue as the HDMI signal is not being interupted on that end but it is in the D2?


Thoughts? I sent Nick an email this morning and am waiting a responce.


I was thinking about going back to 1.11 and seeing what happens. I had some issues with 1.11 and my HD cable being displayed at 1080i so I don't really want to do that. They only other beta code I have is 1.11d but the XA2 nor the PS3 liked that one very much.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Help from the experts...........New problem well not all that new just have been living with it for a while.
> 
> 
> Updated my XA2 to 1.6fw a while ago and started noticing some audio and video drop outs during HD-DVD play. Only a couple per viewing, would happen on all HD disks. Didn't seem to do this with 1.5fw so I figured it was the player's new fw. Last night I updated the XA2 to 2.0 and am still seeing the same issues, very random audio and video drop out to black screen then it will recover in a few seconds.
> 
> 
> So my D2 is running 1.11e which has been the cure all for all of the other issues I have seen. I am starting to think this is not the player but more on the D2 side. When the a/v drops the "HDMI" light on the XA2 stays on but the OSD on the D2 will loose the 1080p and show the volume. So I'm thinking that the player is not having the issue as the HDMI signal is not being interupted on that end but it is in the D2?
> 
> 
> Thoughts? I sent Nick an email this morning and am waiting a responce.
> 
> 
> I was thinking about going back to 1.11 and seeing what happens. I had some issues with 1.11 and my HD cable being displayed at 1080i so I don't really want to do that. They only other beta code I have is 1.11d but the XA2 nor the PS3 liked that one very much.



Jeff,

Do NOT go back to V1.11. Nick will probably suggest you go forward to V1.12s (or newer).


Since we've had so few complaints about the XA2 and the V1.11e software you are using now, another possiblity is that your HDMI cables are not quite up to the job of handling both 1080p/60Hz video and the high bandwidth audio.


But see what Nick has to offer you.

--Bob


----------



## JeffDL

All of my HDMI cables are AudioQuest HDMI-1's. not the best but by no means slouches. I thought about the bandwith limits as I have heard of this before with low cost HDMI cables but thought I had that covered. All cables in my system are AudioQuest.


----------



## JeffDL

Response with in a couple hours. Could tech support be any better.


v1.12s is in my inbox. And that is a great excuse to leave work early!!!


----------



## Ian_Currie

v1.12s is working out well for me so far.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If my house caught fire the only thing I would grab as I ran out the door would be my Anthem D2.



The cat can fend for himself


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> From the Pioneer Elite perspective the D2 is not a display device but a repeater in HDMI/HDCP link. Processing is therefore different. It is difficult to compare a handshake where the source device talk directly with the display devices with a setup where the source device talk directly with the display devices through a repeater in the link. The handshake is different in both cases.



Excellent explanation on the differences, thanks for that! It does make sense that the D2 would appear as a "repeater" rather than a display.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This thread has just moved up into the #7 slot for most viewed thread in this forum...

--Bob


----------



## soapman72

Anyone else notice that the handshake for various devices takes longer with the 1.12s software? It is especially annoying when changing channels (HD to SD) when watching satellite. Other than that I still gave the occasional green tint on the toshiba HD-A2.


All else is good.


----------



## Ian_Currie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soapman72* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Other than that I still gave the occasional green tint on the toshiba HD-A2.



I don't understand this sentence... you're seeing a green tint when using the A2 as a source?


----------



## Randall Morton

Could we make this thread Sticky? Sometimes I have to scroll for half a page to find it.


----------



## ANSEK

I am having the same issue where when I switch to my HD-A2 it has green tint. I am running 1.11e.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Could we make this thread Sticky? Sometimes I have to scroll for half a page to find it.



Go to thread tools, subscribe to it, and when you come onto AVS, click User CP in the upper left...


If you have posted to a thread, you are probably already subscribed to it.


It will take you to your subscriptions with new posts since your last visit, and if there isn't anything new, click on List Subscriptions


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Go to thread tools, subscribe to it, and when you come onto AVS, click User CP in the upper left...
> 
> 
> If you have posted to a thread, you are probably already subscribed to it.
> 
> 
> It will take you to your subscriptions with new posts since your last visit, and if there isn't anything new, click on List Subscriptions



I'm thinking Randall was being sarcastic!










And don't think we have forgot about your promised lengthy response to some of nine balls questions!


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm thinking Randall was being sarcastic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And don't think we have forgot about your promised lengthy response to some of nine balls questions!



I missed that










I'm still working on that other thing..


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I missed that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still working on that other thing..




Good!


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Response with in a couple hours. Could tech support be any better.
> 
> 
> v1.12s is in my inbox. And that is a great excuse to leave work early!!!



What e-mail address did you use to get such a quick response? I sent a request for a firmware update yesterday to the address on their website and I have not received a reply yet. I'm running 1.11e and I have the component input bug that I'm trying to get rid of.


Buddy


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> v1.12s is working out well for me so far.




The only issue for me is starting up with the HD Tivo and switching to XA2 or BDP-HD1 is fine, but if I start with those as y input, the timings to my projector get lost. A nit, but something I need to remember.


Tim


----------



## zzzzdoc

Quick Question:


Does the D2 scale so that I can get an anamorphic lens for the JVC RS-1 projector (which I STILL DON"T HAVE) and change to a 2:35CIH setup?


Anyone using the D2 with a CIH setup? If so, which projector and equipment?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick Question:
> 
> 
> Does the D2 scale so that I can get an anamorphic lens for the JVC RS-1 projector (which I STILL DON"T HAVE) and change to a 2:35CIH setup?
> 
> 
> Anyone using the D2 with a CIH setup? If so, which projector and equipment?



Quick Answer: Yes. See the Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling links in the first post in this thread.


You set a Crop Input / Custom setting to pick the portion of the input image you are interested in (such as a 2.35 frame) and then set Scale Out / Anamorphic to have that stretched, uniformly to fill the shape you have spacified in Setup / Video Output.


I'll leave it to others who are doing this to recommend projectors.

--Bob


----------



## JeffDL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What e-mail address did you use to get such a quick response? I sent a request for a firmware update yesterday to the address on their website and I have not received a reply yet. I'm running 1.11e and I have the component input bug that I'm trying to get rid of.
> 
> 
> Buddy



The one from the anthemav web site. ahhh.... here it is [email protected] 


You should give them a good detailed email about what your exact problem is.


----------



## JeffDL

two in a row.


Anyway the 1.12s is completely different. Menu options have changed, looks to be better.


On a side note I don't think my problem was with the D2. Watched Black Snake Moan last night after the 1.12s upgrade with no a/v drop outs. Oh yeah movie is well worth the watch just for Christina Ricci.


Anyway after the movie which played flawlessly on my XA2, I threw in Smokin Aces, was having some major a/v drops in this title prior to the 1.12s update. I am still seeing some drops and will chalk this up to sh!tty Universal disks. I will try the norm Universal tricks/boiling/washing/etc. You would think as Universal is a sole supporter or HD-DVD there would be some quality control in their manufacturing process.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> two in a row.
> 
> 
> Anyway the 1.12s is completely different. Menu options have changed, looks to be better.
> 
> 
> On a side note I don't think my problem was with the D2. Watched Black Snake Moan last night after the 1.12s upgrade with no a/v drop outs. Oh yeah movie is well worth the watch just for Christina Ricci.
> 
> 
> Anyway after the movie which played flawlessly on my XA2, I threw in Smokin Aces, was having some major a/v drops in this title prior to the 1.12s update. I am still seeing some drops and will chalk this up to sh!tty Universal disks. I will try the norm Universal tricks/boiling/washing/etc. You would think as Universal is a sole supporter or HD-DVD there would be some quality control in their manufacturing process.



If it turns out to be specific to a disc or two, check to make sure the disc is properly centered on the player spindle. Some discs have their center hole slightly off center, so that even the slightest misplacement on the spindle can cause the disc to wobble while spinning more than the tracking mechanism in the player can compensate for. In standard DVDs this is most noticeable during the beginning of the movie and at the half way point since that's when the laser arm is at the furthest range of its motions. It is also the case that the laser arm motor in ALL players will eventually age to the point where it can no longer track such wobble as well as it used to. And if you have a faulty player, this may show up early.


Also, try hooking up the player by Component video and see if you get the same dropouts. If so, it is definitely a player problem with that disc. If not, then it could be an HDMI problem that might be fixed by upgrading cables. Remember that both the input AND the output cable on the D2 have to work right or the player will get unhappy when it periodically tries to re-verify the HDCP (copy protection) stuff. If you go the new cable route, get them from some place with an easy return policy so that you can return them for refund if that turns out to not be the solution.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I missed that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still working on that other thing..



Thanks Rob......Marc. To be honest I am looking forward to your feedback as I have often wondered what is in the minds of the creators of this art form. Your experience in this field is a doorway to a better understanding of what goals we should be defining for ourselves when we speak of directors 'intent'.


I need some help from either Hank or Alain if you guys are around. I have replaced my lamp in the ruby......( watched 2 mins of Planet Earth and nearly fainted with emotion) BUT I can't for the life of me get the Ruby to reset to 0 hours. I have done the reset--left arrow---right arrow---enter on the remote but naada....no joy....nothing. What secret info do you guys have that I don't. Anyone else who has replaced the bulb on a ruby and knows the secret handshake please let me know.



Sorry for the OT question.


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Rob......Marc. To be honest I am looking forward to your feedback as I have often wondered what is in the minds of the creators of this art form. Your experience in this field is a doorway to a better understanding of what goals we should be defining for ourselves when we speak of directors 'intent'.
> 
> 
> I need some help from either Hank or Alain if you guys are around. I have replaced my lamp in the ruby......( watched 2 mins of Planet Earth and nearly fainted with emotion) BUT I can't for the life of me get the Ruby to reset to 0 hours. I have done the reset--left arrow---right arrow---enter on the remote but naada....no joy....nothing. What secret info do you guys have that I don't. Anyone else who has replaced the bulb on a ruby and knows the secret handshake please let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the OT question.
> 
> 
> Peter



Since I have never replaced my LAMP - I don't know

the procedure.


But I think you reset it from the Network Browser Application.


----------



## kal

I'm trying to narrow down a BluRay player purchase and am finding it confusing since I'm also looking at buying a D1 or D2 and there may be some overlap or features in the BluRay players that are irrelevant if the D2 does them better.


Hence my questions below for you experts! Thanks in advance!


*(1)* Does the D2 scaler do anything other than 60Hz output? Can it do the CRT projector friendly 48Hz or 72Hz? (eliminating 3:2 pulldown judder). I would likely run my projector at 1080i/72Hz. If yes, how accurate can you get? I say 72Hz but it's actually 71.928Hz.

*(2)* Similar to (1), how adjustable is the resolution output of the D2 scaler? Can you do oddball resolutions? Interlaced? I'd likely do 1920x1080i (note the 'i' - this is not 'p').

*(3)* The D1 doesn't have any HDMI inputs. Odd, since HDMI isn't about video only. Assuming I don't care about the video side of the D2, I'm supposing that if I want to get into higher quality audio from BluRay (ie: lossless) in the near future, I will need to get the D2 so that I can feed the prepro a multi-channel LPCM signal over HDMI _if i want to do more than 5.1 channels since both the D1/D2 have 5.1 analog inputs but not 6.1 or 7.1 analog inputs_. The D1 just seems very limiting for the future, even when ignoring the video side, no?

*(4)* Some source devices (such as the Sony BDP-S300 BluRay player) have crap scalers built in for upscaling standard DVDs. (The Samsung 1200/Panasonic 10A are better but have other limitations). Is this a moot point if you use the scaler in the D2? In other words, is there a way to output standard DVD's at 480i from the Sony BDP-S300 directly to the D2 and have it upscale to whatever my resolution my projector 'enjoys'?

*(5)* Re: 24 fps output. Some new BluRay players now output 24 fps to avoid any sort of judder artifacts. I think I read that the D2 can take that input signal and covert it to 60Hz for the projector? (Would be nice if it could simply double it to 48Hz or triple to 72Hz as per question (1).


That's enough for now! Thanks everyone.


For the curious, the D1 or D2 will be likely mated with a new P5 amp, all driving my existing Paradigm Signature S8/C5/ADP/Servo15 speakers. (I'm replacing an Acurus ACT-3 prepro and two multichannel Acurus amps).


Kal


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Kal,

The D1 is not an appropriate choice for best quality HD-DVD or Blu-Ray listening. Go with the D2. In the AVM line, Anthem offers the AVM-40 which provides HDMI audio processing and HDMI video pass through (no scaler, etc). But there is not an equivalent product in the Statement line. They go right from the D1 to the D2 -- equivalent in the AVM line of going from the AVM-30 to the AVM-50.


The D2 provides complete flexibility for video UP TO HDMI 1080p/60Hz. So you could get HDMI 1080p/24Hz, or /48Hz, but not /72Hz. The D2's user interface provides access to certain pre-defined video output resolutions. But if one of those doesn't suffice then you can completely define the resolution and video timings and enter a Custom video output resolution into the D2 using the Live Video Settings Editor (Windows PC) application, free from Anthem. The Live Video Settings editor includes some additional pre-defined resolutions. The D2 manual is available for download from the Anthem site if you want to check the built-in resolutions. For example, 1920x1080i/60Hz, 1920x1080p/60Hz, and 1920x1080p/24Hz are all built into the D2 itself. 1920x1080p/48Hz is available as a pre-defined Custom resolution from the Live Video Settings Editor.


Check the links in the first post of this thread for posts that discuss the completely Custom resolution and video timing settings available in that Editor.


I don't know whether the Sony player you ask about will output HDMI 480i, but of course that is indeed what you want to send to the D2 for standard DVD playback. And yes the D2 will de-interlace and scale that input to the video output you specify.


The D2 properly handles 1080p/24Hz to 1080p/60Hz conversion now, and handles 1080p/24Hz to 1080p/24Hz pass through for some projectors with the current official software and, as far is known, for ALL suitable projectors with the software that is currently in field testing (should be official soon).


In addition Anthem is finishing up support for 1080i/60 and 480i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion for film based content that would be input from, say, standard DVDs and HDTV.


==================================


EDITED TO ADD: The D2 is *ALSO* limited to 5.1 channel input for high bandwidth LPCM over HDMI, as from HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players. The D2 will process that input, or its 5.1 channel analog inputs, up to 7.1 speaker output. But the input itself has the 5.1 limit, even over HDMI. This is not likely to change any time soon.


I won't try to discuss again here whether discrete 7.1 input actually provides anything particularly useful for movie watching over discrete 5.1 input processed up to 7.1 output.

--Bob


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The D1 is not an appropriate choice for best quality HD-DVD or Blu-Ray listening. Go with the D2.



Ok, that was my suspicion. Just wanted it confirmed.



> Quote:
> The D2 provides complete flexibility for video UP TO HDMI 1080p/60Hz. So you could get HDMI 1080p/24Hz, or /48Hz, but not /72Hz.



It's the "up to 1080p/60" that is confusing since 1080i/72Hz actually uses considerably _less_bandwidth than 1080p/60 so in practical terms, most would call 1080i/72 "lower" than 1080p/60 since the pixelclock rate is a lot lower. (Most devices that are flexible in terms of resolution/refresh rate that can do up to 1080p/60 are usually only limited by their pixelclock).



> Quote:
> The D2's user interface provides access to certain pre-defined video output resolutions. But if one of those doesn't suffice then you can completely define the resolution and video timings and enter a Custom video output resolution into the D2 using the Live Video Settings Editor (Windows PC) application, free from Anthem. The Live Video Settings editor includes some additional pre-defined resolutions. The D2 manual is available for download from the Anthem site if you want to check the built-in resolutions. For example, 1920x1080i/60Hz, 1920x1080p/60Hz, and 1920x1080p/24Hz are all built into the D2 itself. 1920x1080p/48Hz is available as a pre-defined Custom resolution from the Live Video Settings Editor.



Very interesting. I need to read up on what's available then. This sounds exactly like the sorts of features you'd find in PowerStrip (a PC application) that I've used for years to get custom timings on my HTPC. You can adjust the horiz/vert resolution complete with front/back/top/bottom porches, and refresh rate. Very interesting indeed.



> Quote:
> Check the links in the first post of this thread for posts that discuss the completely Custom resolution and video timing settings available in that Editor.



Thanks - missed that.



> Quote:
> EDITED TO ADD: The D2 is *ALSO* limited to 5.1 channel input for high bandwidth LPCM over HDMI, as from HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players. The D2 will process that input, or its 5.1 channel analog inputs, up to 7.1 speaker output. But the input itself has the 5.1 limit, even over HDMI. This is not likely to change any time soon.



I don't see that being a bit limitation really, since there's no such thing as 6.1 or 7.1 on the master (source). Every receiver or prepro out there now with 7.1 outputs has to 'make up' the extra channels itself in what ever way it feels is right.



> Quote:
> I won't try to discuss again here whether discrete 7.1 input actually provides anything particularly useful for movie watching over discrete 5.1 input processed up to 7.1 output.



Oops - I think I just did it myself.


Thanks Bob. Things are a lot clearer now. I'm impressed at the scaler flexibility of the D2 for CRT projector owners (which are basically non-fixed pixel/multi-scan devices that will sync to anything), and again surprised that nobody's talking about the D2 in the CRT projector forum here. I guess I need to start...










Kal


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Kal, I see what you are saying on 1080i/72Hz, although I'm not sure why you would be targeting that instead of letting the D2 do the de-interlacing (i.e 1080p/24Hz from the D2 frame replicated in the projector up to a 72Hz refresh rate).


The Custom video timings stuff includes a pixel clock setting, etc. I'm not sure what the hard upper limit is on the pixel clock vs. the frame sizes, so 1080i/72Hz might be possible. If this important to you, it would probably be best to give Anthem tech support an email or a call. The email address is at the top of the first post of this thread.


There are a few movies for the new formats which have put their toe in the water with discrete 7.1 mixes -- and of course the game machines are using it. In fact one of our posters here, Film Mixer, is currently engaged in testing a 7.1 mix for an upcoming feature film. But ANY such mix also has to be available as a 5.1 stream (possibly matrixed) that can be processed by the D2 up to 7.1 speaker output. So the big unanswered question at this point is, practically speaking, how much is lost, if anything, in processing a 5.1 matrixed stream up to 7.1, compared to a discrete 7.1 stream, for commercially released films.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since I have never replaced my LAMP - I don't know
> 
> the procedure.
> 
> 
> But I think you reset it from the Network Browser Application.



Thanks Hank.....I'll try that tonight. AND the new lamp paired with the D2 is totally A W E S O M E ! ! ! I can honestly say that I have never seen anything this good in the flesh......and thats before calibration!!!


I forgot just how good this thing can be.


Peter


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kal,
> 
> The D2 provides complete flexibility for video UP TO HDMI 1080p/60Hz. So you could get HDMI 1080p/24Hz, or /48Hz, but not /72Hz. The D2's user interface provides access to certain pre-defined video output resolutions. But if one of those doesn't suffice then you can completely define the resolution and video timings and enter a Custom video output resolution into the D2 using the Live Video Settings Editor (Windows PC) application, free from Anthem. The Live Video Settings editor includes some additional pre-defined resolutions. The D2 manual is available for download from the Anthem site if you want to check the built-in resolutions. For example, 1920x1080i/60Hz, 1920x1080p/60Hz, and 1920x1080p/24Hz are all built into the D2 itself. 1920x1080p/48Hz is available as a pre-defined Custom resolution from the Live Video Settings Editor.
> 
> ...
> 
> --Bob



And the same goes for the AVM-50, if you were wondering.


----------



## BillW

I got an e mail saying the upgrade is now available for the 30, which will be called the AVM 30HD after an upgrade. A 2-3 week turnaround is expected. The upgrade will make it identicle to the 50 except the faceplate. I guess they really are finally catching up.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got an e mail saying the upgrade is now available for the 30, which will be called the AVM 30HD after an upgrade. A 2-3 week turnaround is expected. The upgrade will make it identicle to the 50 except the faceplate. I guess they really are finally catching up.



Woo-hoo! What's the price in US$?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Found it!

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/.../Upgrades.html 


US$2000 to upgrade an AVM-30 to an AVM-30HD (= AVM-50)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The downloadable version of the AVM-50 manual has been updated. The new cover page indicates it is also for the AVM-30HD and AVM-20HD.


This means an AVM-20 to AVM-50 upgrade program is probably also about to begin.

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...OwnersMan.html 


--Bob


----------



## bcljones

Jeff,


I found out today that I actually did get a reply from Nick yesterday. My spam filter caught the message due to the size of the file attachment.


Once again, Anthem's response to customer requests are handled very quickly.


Also, Nick sent version 1.12s. I'll try to install it tonight.


Buddy


----------



## jayray

I am quite new to the "separates game" and wondered about the combination of the AVM 50 with an MCA 50 amp. I have a 14'x26' room and what I think are pretty good speakers(PSB stratus bronze mains and centre) and a paradigm servo 15 sub. I now use a Denon 3803 and wondered what I could reasonable expect to improve upon with the above combination. I was considering a Denon 4308 but was advised to go with separates. Just wondered what some of you guys thought. Thanks


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am quite new to the "separates game" and wondered about the combination of the AVM 50 with an MCA 50 amp. I have a 14'x26' room and what I think are pretty good speakers(PSB stratus bronze mains and centre) and a paradigm servo 15 sub. I now use a Denon 3803 and wondered what I could reasonable expect to improve upon with the above combination. I was considering a Denon 4308 but was advised to go with separates. Just wondered what some of you guys thought. Thanks



I think that the advice you got to go with separates is a very good one!


I also think that you are looking at one of the better options available.


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kal, I see what you are saying on 1080i/72Hz, although I'm not sure why you would be targeting that instead of letting the D2 do the de-interlacing (i.e 1080p/24Hz from the D2 frame replicated in the projector up to a 72Hz refresh rate).



Not to get into too many technical details here, but the usual limiting factor in CRT projectors is bandwidth and physical resolving capability on the tube faces. Other than the super high-end models, many people are better off using 1080i instead of 1080p due to the fact that it's 1/2 the bandwidth. (Remember that CRT projectors are not fixed pixel devices so they simply display what they're shown - there's no internal scaler).


Coupled with the fact that 24 fps movies do not really look any different at 1080i/60 as compared to 1080p/60, there's no compelling reason for these mid-grade CRT owners to push their units excessively to do 1080p. I just makes them work harder, gives a softer picture, and generates more heat. Not to mention that it doesn't look any different. Hence the interest for 1080i. 72hz instead of 60hz comes about as any signs of flicker or scanlines (usually) completely go away when you go from 60 to 72.


Anyway, enough of the off-topic talk.


Thanks again for the info Bob!



> Quote:
> The Custom video timings stuff includes a pixel clock setting, etc. I'm not sure what the hard upper limit is on the pixel clock vs. the frame sizes, so 1080i/72Hz might be possible. If this important to you, it would probably be best to give Anthem tech support an email or a call. The email address is at the top of the first post of this thread.



Not overly important. Was more of a curiousity. I'd get the D2 anyway for the HDMI audio features.



> Quote:
> There are a few movies for the new formats which have put their toe in the water with discrete 7.1 mixes -- and of course the game machines are using it. In fact one of our posters here, Film Mixer, is currently engaged in testing a 7.1 mix for an upcoming feature film. But ANY such mix also has to be available as a 5.1 stream (possibly matrixed) that can be processed by the D2 up to 7.1 speaker output. So the big unanswered question at this point is, practically speaking, how much is lost, if anything, in processing a 5.1 matrixed stream up to 7.1, compared to a discrete 7.1 stream, for commercially released films.



If more movies come out this way and people start asking for 7.1 inputs (either discrete analog or via HDMI LPCM), I'm sure Anthem will bow down and offer upgrades.


One of the MAIN reasons I'm looking at Anthem is simply due to the support they provide. I want my next prepro to last me a long time and don't care if it costs me a few hundred $$ every now and again if I decide I need the latest and greatest. Their upgrade paths have always been very good.


Kal


----------



## jayray

Rob,

thanks for the endorsement, your experience makes me feel more comfortable with the decision.


----------



## [email protected]

Bob P,

I notice that when I toggle through and change the resolution outputs (480i, 480p, 720p 1080i) of the HR10-250 TIVO that I am unable to hear audio using the 480i setting. The other settings I can hear. Is something setup incorrectly in the AVM-50. I think at one time this was working correctly. I have version 1.11g software. Thanks.


German


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob P,
> 
> I notice that when I toggle through and change the resolution outputs (480i, 480p, 720p 1080i) of the HR10-250 TIVO that I am unable to hear audio using the 480i setting. The other settings I can hear. Is something setup incorrectly in the AVM-50. I think at one time this was working correctly. I have version 1.11g software. Thanks.
> 
> 
> German



Are you using HDMI? 480i will deliver uncompressed stereo and multichannel Dolby Digital just fine over HDMI.


I suspect it may be a setting OR limitation of the TIVO box.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob P,
> 
> I notice that when I toggle through and change the resolution outputs (480i, 480p, 720p 1080i) of the HR10-250 TIVO that I am unable to hear audio using the 480i setting. The other settings I can hear. Is something setup incorrectly in the AVM-50. I think at one time this was working correctly. I have version 1.11g software. Thanks.
> 
> 
> German



I don't believe the HR10-250 has a known problem with HDMI audio when set to 480i output, but I'm not sure.


On the other hand, the V1.11g software HAS had some audio issues with some HDMI source devices.


Give Anthem tech support a call. Your Tivo is a commonly used source device so they should be up on any issues with it. My guess is they'll switch you to V1.12s.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> thanks for the endorsement, your experience makes me feel more comfortable with the decision.



Take some time and read through some of the thread. You will see that people who own the Anthem D2 or AVM50 came from some high end stuff like Lexicon. Those who came from receivers are _never_ disappointed, to say the least.


----------



## jayray

This thread is almost as long as War and Peace


----------



## barhoram

Wonding if anyone is using a TVIX M-4100SH network media player w/ HDMI with thier D2? I've been looking at one of these for a while now, but just haven't gotten around to ording one. I'm pretty sure it does 480i over HDMI to playback ripped DVD's etc. Just wondering how the video quality might compare with my Pioneer Elite 59avi for SD DVD.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This thread is almost as long as War and Peace




Actually I measured it........its slightly longer than two thirds of the Lord Of The Rings (extended version) but far more readable.


and I quote "d2's are like dreams, each bear fruit, each in their own time."


Peter


----------



## slots1

why is the anthem thread not an official sticky?


I guess not until we are at least as all three rings.


Gerry


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since I have never replaced my LAMP - I don't know
> 
> the procedure.
> 
> 
> But I think you reset it from the Network Browser Application.



For future reference Hank......simply turn on the ruby (and nothing else) then using the remote "reset" , "left arrow", "right arrow" and then "enter". each button for about 1 sec in the above sequence. If you plan to keep the old bulb as a spare I would suggest skipping the step that turns the screw till the hissing stops as that drains the bulb.


Sorry folks for the off thread comments.....hopefully there is something there for the D2 ..Ruby community.


I can hardly wait for the final full prod release for the D2 software. I desparately want to calibrate this environment before it ages too much.....


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> why is the anthem thread not an official sticky?
> 
> 
> I guess not until we are at least as all three rings.
> 
> 
> Gerry



Actually you raise an excellent point......we don't need a 'sticky ' status. Its a mark of the caliber of this community that has sustained it as an active useful environment. I for one would search through a maze to stay current with this group. I have learned more about this passion in this thread than any other source of information in or out of the web. Who needs a Cray III or an IBM mainframe or even a Hitachi super computer when you can have a Bob P on a thumb drive.


Nope, we don't need a sticky because this thing continues to offer true value to the community on its own relative merits without any artificial support.


Thank you Bob, Hank, Alain, Marc, Rob and all the other super contributors to this dialogue and support of the Anthem Technology experience!


You have all enhanced our enjoyment a thousand fold because of your willingness to share.


Peter


----------



## jayray

OK boys, I did it. I have a new Anthem A5 with an AVM 50













































I haven't hooked anything up but that will happen in the next few days. I'm sure I will have some questions but I feel like I have graduated from high school directly into Grad school. I look forward to trying them out. This thread helped me make my decision so thanks to all the helpful posts.


John


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK boys, I did it. I have a new Anthem A5 with an AVM 50
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't hooked anything up but that will happen in the next few days. I'm sure I will have some questions but I feel like I have graduated from high school directly into Grad school. I look forward to trying them out. This thread helped me make my decision so thanks to all the helpful posts.
> 
> 
> John




AWESOME ....welcome to the club John.....Hank or Rob will deliver your new mascots in short order. You are in for a treat.


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> AWESOME ....welcome to the club John.....Hank or Rob will deliver your new mascots in short order. You are in for a treat.
> 
> 
> Peter



Lets Wait until Power-Up - that way John and the Mascot will be jumping


----------



## jayray

Peter,

Given your location and mine, I would be happy to help you get other products as I have a very good connection in Miss. for AV stuff.


ps. off to read this thread


----------



## jluloff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK boys, I did it. I have a new Anthem A5 with an AVM 50
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't hooked anything up but that will happen in the next few days. I'm sure I will have some questions but I feel like I have graduated from high school directly into Grad school. I look forward to trying them out. This thread helped me make my decision so thanks to all the helpful posts.
> 
> 
> John




Grats, and thanks to all the wonderful folks in this thread. I don't really post much as you can tell but I read the boards all the time and this thread was the main reason I upgraded the home theater that was in the house my wife and I bought and year ago.


The Anthem AVM50 and MCA-20 and MCA-50 are now in my new rack feeding audio to my Paradigm Studio 100's, CC-690, ADP-590, SA-15R30 in-ceiling,Servo-15 and video to the Sony "Pearl"


Thanks again as my home theater education continues to grow on a dalily basis


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Grats, and thanks to all the wonderful folks in this thread. I don't really post much as you can tell but I read the boards all the time and this thread was the main reason I upgraded the home theater that was in the house my wife and I bought and year ago.
> 
> 
> The Anthem AVM50 and MCA-20 and MCA-50 are now in my new rack feeding audio to my Paradigm Studio 100's, CC-690, ADP-590, SA-15R30 in-ceiling,Servo-15 and video to the Sony "Pearl"
> 
> 
> Thanks again as my home theater education continues to grow on a dalily basis



You need some Happy Anthem Mascots


----------



## jayray

No sooner do I get my new equipment but someone who is in the business of calibrating sound, mentions that the AVM 50 can't properly pass Dolby True HD or DTS HD Ma. Now I know the DTS hasn't been implemented in players or their abiltiy to output it but DD THD is processed in the players and output through the hdmi. He said there is presently a glitch with DD THD that doesn't allow it to be output properly. It seems very confusing to me. He thought I should get a receiver with the formats decoded in them such as the Integra, Onkyo etc. I was under the impression that the AVM 50 can output the DD THD through the analog out or hdmi and that for DTS HD MA, we all have to wait for players to output this from the disc instead of downsampling.

I'm sure someone will have something to say about this.


PS. I'm not taking my Anthem stuff back regardless.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No sooner do I get my new equipment but someone who is in the business of calibrating sound, mentions that the AVM 50 can't properly pass Dolby True HD or DTS HD Ma. Now I know the DTS hasn't been implemented in players or their abiltiy to output it but DD THD is processed in the players and output through the hdmi. He said there is presently a glitch with DD THD that doesn't allow it to be output properly. It seems very confusing to me. He thought I should get a receiver with the formats decoded in them such as the Integra, Onkyo etc. I was under the impression that the AVM 50 can output the DD THD through the analog out or hdmi and that for DTS HD MA, we all have to wait for players to output this from the disc instead of downsampling.
> 
> I'm sure someone will have something to say about this.
> 
> 
> PS. I'm not taking my Anthem stuff back regardless.



I've no idea what he is talking about.


There are plenty of users enjoying TrueHD playback via HDMI PCM to the AVM-50 and D2 today.


Ask Film Mixer, who makes his living producing studio mixes for feature films.


-------------------------------------------------------------


I know of reports of a setup problem in the Toshiba players that can affect TrueHD playback quality. But that's just operator error in the Toshiba player's setup (exascerbated by a confusing feature in the players).

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No sooner do I get my new equipment but someone who is in the business of calibrating sound, mentions that the AVM 50 can't properly pass Dolby True HD or DTS HD Ma. Now I know the DTS hasn't been implemented in players or their abiltiy to output it but DD THD is processed in the players and output through the hdmi. He said there is presently a glitch with DD THD that doesn't allow it to be output properly. It seems very confusing to me. He thought I should get a receiver with the formats decoded in them such as the Integra, Onkyo etc. I was under the impression that the AVM 50 can output the DD THD through the analog out or hdmi and that for DTS HD MA, we all have to wait for players to output this from the disc instead of downsampling.
> 
> I'm sure someone will have something to say about this.
> 
> 
> PS. I'm not taking my Anthem stuff back regardless.



Have no fear! This is complete BS. What does he mean "can't properly pass Dolby True HD..."??? As Bob said, I, and many others, are enjoying TrueHD without any issues whatsoever.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Grats, and thanks to all the wonderful folks in this thread. I don't really post much as you can tell but I read the boards all the time and this thread was the main reason I upgraded the home theater that was in the house my wife and I bought and year ago.
> 
> 
> The Anthem AVM50 and MCA-20 and MCA-50 are now in my new rack feeding audio to my Paradigm Studio 100's, CC-690, ADP-590, SA-15R30 in-ceiling,Servo-15 and video to the Sony "Pearl"
> 
> 
> Thanks again as my home theater education continues to grow on a dalily basis



I believe you are representative of an underground lurking society that is either reluctant to risk embarrassment by admitting that some, if not alot of the dialogue in this thread is at times overwhelming...........or that for many there are better things in life than obsessing about the differences between 1080P /60 and 1080P /24 .........yet this very quiet silent majority is the very community that from time to time pokes its head up to say thanks..........you helped raise my enjoyment of this medium. I think thats great and we need to remember there are more like you out there!


Nice system by the way.........many here would understand and resonate with your enjoyment. Feel free to join in more frequently......you are a member of a special community.


Peter


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Have no fear! This is complete BS. What does he mean "can't properly pass Dolby True HD..."??? As Bob said, I, and many others, are enjoying TrueHD without any issues whatsoever.




Ditto.........John your new acquisition is sooooo far ahead of the footprint / features list of the competition that he has listed but don't rely on us for that reassurance, its too late, we've already drunk the koolaid .........wait for it...............let your own ears be the judge!!!!!!!


Peter


----------



## jluloff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe you are representative of an underground lurking society that is either reluctant to risk embarrassment by admitting that some, if not alot of the dialogue in this thread is at times overwhelming...........or that for many there are better things in life than obsessing about the differences between 1080P /60 and 1080P /24 .........yet this very quiet silent majority is the very community that from time to time pokes its head up to say thanks..........you helped raise my enjoyment of this medium. I think thats great and we need to remember there are more like you out there!
> 
> 
> Nice system by the way.........many here would understand and resonate with your enjoyment. Feel free to join in more frequently......you are a member of a special community.
> 
> 
> Peter



Thanks Nine ball!


You sure did hit the nail on the head ...i do lurk and the dialgue is a bit overwhelming but I appreciate the time people take to share their knowledge since it does make a difference. I will try to poke my head in where I can but I am still such a noob to all this stuff. By the way, the differences between 1080P /60 and 1080P /24 does matter!!!


Keep up the great work!!



JL


----------



## jayray

I had no idea what he was talking about. I have enjoyed TrueHD on many titles and they sounded great. Either I am halucinating or he is; I prefer the latter. I have no intention of second guessing my purchase. I can hardly wait to set it up and listen to the improperly decoded sound formats









As always thanks for the support.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ditto.........John your new acquisition is sooooo far ahead of the footprint / features list of the competition that he has listed but don't rely on us for that reassurance, its too late, we've already drunk the koolaid .........wait for it...............let your own ears be the judge!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> Peter



I'm ready to drink and the koolaid looks soooooooooooooo good. Bottoms up


----------



## jayray

Where does one get and RS 232 cable. I have looked at computer stores and they don't seem to have them. Seems I need one to do the setup or install updates.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where does one get and RS 232 cable. I have looked at computer stores and they don't seem to have them. Seems I need one to do the setup or install updates.



In the US, almost everyone gets them from Radio Shack. I don't know what the equivalent is in Canada.


You will need it to use the custom setup features found in the Live Video Settings Editor (Windows PC) application, and of course to do a software installation, but most people do their setup using just the user interface built into the D2 -- i.e., without runnning the application and without needing the cable.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I have the AVM 50, not the D2 although they have similarities, would this apply to this model? I would prefer to use something other than my pj given the amount of time it might take to setup.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm ready to drink and the koolaid looks soooooooooooooo good. Bottoms up



I'm thinking that sometime in the next couple of months after the Anthem software full prod release, I would like to plan for a full on ISF calibration. Sounds like you may be a candidate to join in the process. I'm also thinking that if there are others in the D2/AVM50 world in our area that we would all benefit from the experience for mutual ongoing support.


John, I don't know what software version ships with your 50 but you might get a good recommendation from the group as to the best version to run with your current equipment config. You might as well skip the 1080i bug before you begin to play.


As one who has learned through actual hands on experience, some of the basic work spelled out in the front of this thread authored by Bob Pariseau, Alain Levesque and Hank is worth its weight in gold and probably should be shipped with the equipment. I highly recommend at least skimming the basic config stuff so that at least you'll know that the commentary exists. Most of the opening docs are a reflection of current state of knowledge and will save you time. Bob's rather thorough approach to alot of the stuff is an aggregate of the experience documented by this population and agin I suggest not skipping to much of the process.....he is bang on more often than not. The time to update the software for example is BEFORE you connect any HDMI cables. Also be prepared for a different audio experience....you have just taken a huge step up and clean is going to take on a whole new meaning.


I'll look forward to catching up with you at DVD-plus when you come up for air!!!!


Peter


----------



## jayray

Peter,

I would love to be a part of any calibration session you might plan. As for the thread usefulness, I have already started to read from the beginning and realize that alot of work has gone into documenting many of the issues around these units. I have the geek gene so reading this info will not really be a chore. Thanks for the info. After spending so much time on the HD DVD and Bluray threads, I can honestly say I am enjoying the tone on this thread much more than I did there.


John


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In the US, almost everyone gets them from Radio Shack. I don't know what the equivalent is in Canada.
> 
> 
> You will need it to use the custom setup features found in the Live Video Settings Editor (Windows PC) application, and of course to do a software installation, but most people do their setup using just the user interface built into the D2 -- i.e., without runnning the application and without needing the cable.
> 
> --Bob




The Source...its the Radio Shack originally before they were bought. There are a couple of outlets near John and they do have the proper cable but make sure that its a straight through and does not crossover!!!


I have one John if you can't find one....


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I have the AVM 50, not the D2 although they have similarities, would this apply to this model? I would prefer to use something other than my pj given the amount of time it might take to setup.



The setup process for the AVM-50 is identical to what's done with the D2.


Of course you are going to have to use your projector when doing video level calibration, but if you don't want to burn the projector while doing other setup you can either do it just using the built in front panel display of the AVM-50 itself, or you can hook up any small TV to one of the other AVM-50 video outputs to view the Setup menu that way.


If you want to just use the front panel display, the pictures of the various Setup menus in the user manual are useful to help keep from getting lost.

--Bob


----------



## ANSEK

I am having the darnedest time trying to get the navigation buttons to work properly through my Pronto Pro NG TSU7000. It doesn't matter if I use the configuration file from the Anthem website or the configuration file posted by Randy or I learn the codes directly from my Anthem remote, the codes do not work properly with my D2. I have to hit the navigation buttons 9 or 10 times to get the cursor to move and when it moves it does not move a consistent distance. Sometimes it move one spot sometimes it move three spots or sometimes it moves five spots.


Am I the one person having this issue? Can some suggest solutions other than buying a new remote.


----------



## jayray

Peter and Bob,


I have a Source outlet very close to me. Will check today.

thanks


PS I don't have a serial port on my laptop so I will have to use a USB-Serial cable. I read in the thread that they don't work as well. Do you agree. Would leave me without an upgrade option


----------



## drdisc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just some info for anyone looking for options if you don't have/can't get an actual serial port. I queried Anthem for a suitable usb to serial adaptor and Frank replied with the following manufacturers - Keyspan, Belkin, or IO Gear.
> 
> 
> As I understand it the key being Microsoft WHQL certified drivers.
> 
> 
> I ended up purchasing the Keyspan. I am not having any issues with the older software currently installed and therefore have not yet used the device as I am awaiting the production release of the next version.



Jayray:


Here is some info about USB to serial port adapters that was recently posted (just prior to you joining this forum, I believe).


Also refer to posts # 7456, 7462, 7463.


I myself asked about this exact topic as my computer does not have a serial port, only USB.


I have not yet attempted a firmware upgrade -- I am patiently waiting for the official release of 1.12!


Just FYI, I am just down the road from you and Peter (in Hamilton) and may be interested in the 'group ISF calibration' that you both have in mind.


Good luck!









Mark


ADDED: I was just checking on Amazon and this looks like an excellent solution for the USB to serial port scenario:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...500401-5120821 


This Keypsan adapter is actually two separate pieces: the USBa to USBb cable and the plug-in RS232 to USB adapter 'plug'. This means that you could easily leave the adapter plug in the RS232 port on the D2 / AVM-50 and just plug in the USB cable when you needed to do an upgrade.


This configuration would also allow you to simply plug in a longer USBa to USBb cable as your needs may require (the one supplied is 3' in length). It would also save any potential wear and tear on the D2's serial port itself.


The customer reviews are almost without exception very positive, although I am not sure if this actual device has actually been used successfully to perform a firmware upgrade on the D2. . . . Anyone?


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where does one get and RS 232 cable. I have looked at computer stores and they don't seem to have them. Seems I need one to do the setup or install updates.



Yes, as other folks mentioned, you ought to be able to get them locally from computer stores or electronic stores (like Radio Shack). I had to order mine online because none of the local stock had cables long enough for my needs. This is what I got:

http://www.cablestogo.com/product.as...=919&sku=52032


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Peter and Bob,
> 
> 
> I have a Source outlet very close to me. Will check today.
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> PS I don't have a serial port on my laptop so I will have to use a USB-Serial cable. I read in the thread that they don't work as well. Do you agree. Would leave me without an upgrade option




There are a number of cases with a lousy track record using the 'hybrid' USB serial cable......Microsoft XP is probably the best OS option.


Depending on the version shipped with your AVM50 it might be ok with your config for the time being.


Worst case we are close enough to Anthem that if the final Prod comes out they probably might even maybe would flash the new version for you......I think bob may have the best inctincts as to whether you have the best fit for your initial setup after you find out what version is on it.


I use an old IBM think pad that has the RS232 connector that does the job without any negative side effects (battery is permanently dead so I have to plug it in). Push comes to shove you are welcome to use it.....I don't use it for anything else!


Peter


Peter


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drdisc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jayray:
> 
> 
> Here is some info about USB to serial port adapters that was recently posted (just prior to you joining this forum, I believe).
> 
> 
> Also refer to posts # 7456, 7462, 7463.
> 
> 
> I myself asked about this exact topic as my computer does not have a serial port, only USB.
> 
> 
> I have not yet attempted a firmware upgrade -- I am patiently waiting for the official release of 1.12!
> 
> 
> Just FYI, I am just down the road from you and Peter (in Hamilton) and may be interested in the 'group ISF calibration' that you both have in mind.
> 
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> ADDED: I was just checking on Amazon and this looks like an excellent solution for the USB to serial port scenario:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...500401-5120821
> 
> 
> This Keypsan adapter is actually two separate pieces: the USBa to USBb cable and the plug-in RS232 to USB adapter 'plug'. This means that you could easily leave the adapter plug in the RS232 port on the D2 / AVM-50 and just plug in the USB cable when you needed to do an upgrade.
> 
> 
> This configuration would also allow you to simply plug in a longer USBa to USBb cable as your needs may require (the one supplied is 3' in length). It would also save any potential wear and tear on the D2's serial port itself.
> 
> 
> The customer reviews are almost without exception very positive, although I am not sure if this actual device has actually been used successfully to perform a firmware upgrade on the D2. . . . Anyone?




I seem to remember positive feedback on the keyspan as well Mark. When I finally get a good referral on the best resource to do the ISF calibration you are for sure invited.......I'm planning on having a couple of hundred hours on the Ruby so maybe in a month........the big issue for me now is finding someone who is REALLY qualified. I'm tired of dealing with kids who don't have the experience or desire to get it right!


Peter


----------



## JeffDL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am having the darnedest time trying to get the navigation buttons to work properly through my Pronto Pro NG TSU7000. It doesn't matter if I use the configuration file from the Anthem website or the configuration file posted by Randy or I learn the codes directly from my Anthem remote, the codes do not work properly with my D2. I have to hit the navigation buttons 9 or 10 times to get the cursor to move and when it moves it does not move a consistent distance. Sometimes it move one spot sometimes it move three spots or sometimes it moves five spots.
> 
> 
> Am I the one person having this issue? Can some suggest solutions other than buying a new remote.



I have an older TSU6000. Used the Anthem .ccf file and just intergrated some of the preprogramed codes into existing buttons I had. I added all of the Anthem .ccf file to my current .ccf under a new ANTHEM tab. Everything seems to be working great.


You could try saving your defalt .ccf file than resetting the pronto and restoring it to factory defults. and finally reloading the your custom .ccf


----------



## drdisc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I seem to remember positive feedback on the keyspan as well Mark. When I finally get a good referral on the best resource to do the ISF calibration you are for sure invited.......I'm planning on having a couple of hundred hours on the Ruby so maybe in a month........the big issue for me now is finding someone who is REALLY qualified. I'm tired of dealing with kids who don't have the experience or desire to get it right!
> 
> 
> Peter



Sounds great, Peter! I will defer to your greater knowledge as far as calibration is concerned and let you locate someone with the skills to do what needs to be done.


My timeframe for calibration depends almost entirely on the release date of the new firmware . . . .


Mark


----------



## jayray

Peter,

I thought you were referring to an audio calibration, although ISF is video DAA. I have a calibrator who you might have heard of Michael TLV. He has done 4 calibrations for me and comes to our area usually twice a year. He lives in Calgary but does alot of ISF in Toronto and Miss. He is coming out again in late Sept or early Oct. and I have booked him for several friends of mine. He is outstanding and actually teaches other calibrators at CES every year. He is an engineer by training and now does this half time while travelling the country doing the ISF.

Let me know if this interests you as he gets booked up quickly.


John


PS. I got a USB-Serial cable from The Source today but hope the new firmware comes out soon so I only have to do this once


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I got this cable and I have used it 3 or 4 times to backup settings and download Nick's updates.

http://www.pccables.com/70607.htm


----------



## jayray

I just installed the driver, I'm using Vista on my lapthtop and so far the message is it will work fine, we'll see.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just installed the driver, I'm using Vista on my lapthtop and so far the message is it will work fine, we'll see.



Be careful with Vista (as opposed to XP or older). We've had some reports here of the Anthem applications not actually being Vista compatible yet. I'm not sure what the problem is, but we've had reports of the software installer application crashing for example.


With any luck, Anthem will have this fixed in the software that's about to come out.


-------------------------------------------------------


It is likely that your new Anthem came with the V1.11e software factory installed. If so, that's probably the right place for you to be until the new "official" software release happens.


I would not recommend you add futzing with the current "test" software releases to the other stuff you are trying to get up to speed on. Unless of course you run into a specific problem that needs to be addressed urgently.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I have a friend who has a laptop with XP so I will use his. I would be happy right now not to futz with anything and just try these components to see the diff from my lowly Denon 3803. Thanks for the headsup.


John


----------



## jayray

well i have spent 5 hours hooking up and setting up. Here are my observations.


Cd sound was excellent, but my sub sounds terrible. It has no tightness as before and changing levels makes no diff in the wobbly sound of it. Now I know it didn't suddenly go bad so it's something in the setup I have yet to adjust properly, but I'm not sure what. HD DVD and Bluray look excellent but the sound is suffering from this bass problem. I have an LG dvd player that only outputs in 480p, 720p and 1080i. Manual says to use lowest interlaced format to avoid using players de-interlacer so I'm not sure what to do here.

PS3 sound is absent but then I tried to output thru component and input sound by hdmi. I recall something in the thread mentioning how to do this so I'll read it over to figure it out. Still alot of tweaking to do.

Maybe I was tired, but I couldn't figure out how to only get 2 channel stereo for cds, everything was 5.1


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am having the darnedest time trying to get the navigation buttons to work properly through my Pronto Pro NG TSU7000. It doesn't matter if I use the configuration file from the Anthem website or the configuration file posted by Randy or I learn the codes directly from my Anthem remote, the codes do not work properly with my D2. I have to hit the navigation buttons 9 or 10 times to get the cursor to move and when it moves it does not move a consistent distance. Sometimes it move one spot sometimes it move three spots or sometimes it moves five spots.
> 
> 
> Am I the one person having this issue? Can some suggest solutions other than buying a new remote.



ANSEK

I am currently setting up a TSU9600 using the config file from the Anthem site with some modifications without problem. Learned a lot from the forum listed below I believe there is a forum there for the 7000/7500. Check it out or maybe you already have, anyway here it is.

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/forums.cgi?4


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> well i have spent 5 hours hooking up and setting up. Here are my observations.
> 
> 
> Cd sound was excellent, but my sub sounds terrible. It has no tightness as before and changing levels makes no diff in the wobbly sound of it. Now I know it didn't suddenly go bad so it's something in the setup I have yet to adjust properly, but I'm not sure what. HD DVD and Bluray look excellent but the sound is suffering from this bass problem. I have an LG dvd player that only outputs in 480p, 720p and 1080i. Manual says to use lowest interlaced format to avoid using players de-interlacer so I'm not sure what to do here.
> 
> PS3 sound is absent but then I tried to output thru component and input sound by hdmi. I recall something in the thread mentioning how to do this so I'll read it over to figure it out. Still alot of tweaking to do.
> 
> Maybe I was tired, but I couldn't figure out how to only get 2 channel stereo for cds, everything was 5.1



* Revist your speaker configuration for the bass problem. There are lots of settings that affect how bass works. It can take a while to figure out how to get the best out of them. There are notes that might help in a post linked in the first post of this thread on bass setup with a Velodyne subwoofer.


* Set your LG DVD player to 480p output since it won't do 480i. Also check whether you can get COMPONENT video 480i out of it. That would probably work better for you than HDMI 480p since the Anthem will convert the Component input to HDMI output. Some players require you to make TWO settings to enable 480i output -- one in a menu and one in a switch on the back near the connectors.


* I'm not sure why you are trying Component video from the PS3 (in combination with HDMI audio). I thought you had an HDMI display? In any event the post that you are looking for is linked in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.


* To get 2-channel stereo mode for CDs, select the input you are using for CD, press the Mode key on the remote and use the up and down arrows to scroll through the options. One of the options will be simple Stereo. If that option doesn't present itself, be sure you have THX post processing turned OFF -- press the THX button and then use the up or down arrows to toggle the setting. You can also select 2-channel stereo mode as the DEFAULT for the input you are using for CD listening. In Setup / Source Setup for that input, scroll down and you will see a line for each type of audio input format. Select Stereo mode for the 2-channel audio input format and that will be the default when the Anthem receives that for this input.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> well i have spent 5 hours hooking up and setting up. Here are my observations.
> 
> 
> Cd sound was excellent, but my sub sounds terrible. It has no tightness as before and changing levels makes no diff in the wobbly sound of it. Now I know it didn't suddenly go bad so it's something in the setup I have yet to adjust properly, but I'm not sure what. HD DVD and Bluray look excellent but the sound is suffering from this bass problem. I have an LG dvd player that only outputs in 480p, 720p and 1080i. Manual says to use lowest interlaced format to avoid using players de-interlacer so I'm not sure what to do here.
> 
> PS3 sound is absent but then I tried to output thru component and input sound by hdmi. I recall something in the thread mentioning how to do this so I'll read it over to figure it out. Still alot of tweaking to do.
> 
> Maybe I was tired, but I couldn't figure out how to only get 2 channel stereo for cds, everything was 5.1




Everything is there......including the bass!!! The best advice I can offer is to start with one element at a time......share your observation/experience/frustration one step at a time and the answer will come from the audience here. Believe it or not each time you walk down a path there is always someone else who is learning from your experience. Perhaps it might be possible to get together briefly over the weekend to share some of the basic configuration experience. It doesn't make sense to tweak until all the parts function together. It might help save some time. Both bob and Hank among others have walked down the 2 channel path so there definitely is a light at the end of the tunnel. So pick your poison, one step at a time and don't let up till its right!


Peter


----------



## Krops

Hi all,


I held out as long as I could for an official update to 1.11, but decided to take the plunge into the betas last week. I'm running 1.12s, and I wanted to share my results with the forum.


Here's my setup:

D2 running 1.12s

Inputs: PS3, cable (SA 8300HD), XBOX360, Wii

Video output: Pioneer 50" plasma @ 720p/60 (TV does not appear to accept native resolution)


After upgrading, I noticed a definite improvement in PS3 output. I think the other sources look better also, but I'm certain about the PS3 improvement as I spent alot of time with it earlier evaluating various HDMI cables (currently using Bluejeans).


However I'm experiencing 2 problems:

First and foremost, in about 1 out of every 3 power-ups, I get no video output from the D2. No brief hey-I'm-doing-something flickers, no OSD - nothing. I'm guessing this is tied to the order at which things are turned on (D2, TV, cable box, etc), but I have not found the magic sequence yet. When I was using 1.11, I had no problems powering things up in arbitrary order.


In 1.11, I was able to enjoy audio with the TV off from a HDMI source. A typical scenario is listening to a cable music channel when the TV is off. In 1.12s, this no longer works. When I turn the TV off under 1.12s, the D2 attempts to "lock on" to the signal several times but never succeeds.


Both issues have been reported to Nick at Anthem. Anyone else experiencing these issues? I noticed this recent posting which may be related to my power-up issues:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The only issue for me is starting up with the HD Tivo and switching to XA2 or BDP-HD1 is fine, but if I start with those as y input, the timings to my projector get lost. A nit, but something I need to remember.
> 
> 
> Tim


----------



## jayray

Bob,

thanks once again. Fatigue is a terrible foe and if I hadn't just turned off my pj, I'd be right back at it










Peter,

thanks for the moral support


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I held out as long as I could for an official update to 1.11, but decided to take the plunge into the betas last week. I'm running 1.12s, and I wanted to share my results with the forum.
> 
> 
> Here's my setup:
> 
> D2 running 1.12s
> 
> Inputs: PS3, cable (SA 8300HD), XBOX360, Wii
> 
> Video output: Pioneer 50" plasma @ 720p/60 (TV does not appear to accept native resolution)
> 
> 
> After upgrading, I noticed a definite improvement in PS3 output. I think the other sources look better also, but I'm certain about the PS3 improvement as I spent alot of time with it earlier evaluating various HDMI cables (currently using Bluejeans).
> 
> 
> However I'm experiencing 2 problems:
> 
> First and foremost, in about 1 out of every 3 power-ups, I get no video output from the D2. No brief hey-I'm-doing-something flickers, no OSD - nothing. I'm guessing this is tied to the order at which things are turned on (D2, TV, cable box, etc), but I have not found the magic sequence yet. When I was using 1.11, I had no problems powering things up in arbitrary order.
> 
> 
> In 1.11, I was able to enjoy audio with the TV off from a HDMI source. A typical scenario is listening to a cable music channel when the TV is off. In 1.12s, this no longer works. When I turn the TV off under 1.12s, the D2 attempts to "lock on" to the signal several times but never succeeds.
> 
> 
> Both issues have been reported to Nick at Anthem. Anyone else experiencing these issues? I noticed this recent posting which may be related to my power-up issues:



Make sure you have HDMI Repeater = NO set for each input using HDMI in Setup / Source Setup.


That setting may have reverted to YES when you did the upgrade. The fact that you are losing HDMI audio input when your TV is turned off would be a symptom of this (i.e., the source is trying to query the TV through the Anthem to insure copy protection, et. al., and can't because the TV is powered off).


If you have HDMI Repeater = NO and still aren't getting HDMI audio input when your TV is off, be sure to report this to Nick as it may be a key bit of evidence -- e.g., that the Repeater Yes/No function is not working correctly. This would also likely affect your power on problems.


[Repeater = Yes -- the default likely required by HDMI ORG -- makes the Anthem present itself to each source as a "Repeater", which means the source now has to query the display THROUGH the Anthem. Repeater = NO makes the Anthem pretend to each source that it is directly connected to a TV -- much easier for the source to deal with. The Anthem takes over doing the rest of the stuff, such as insuring copy protection to the TV.]

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I held out as long as I could for an official update to 1.11, but decided to take the plunge into the betas last week. I'm running 1.12s, and I wanted to share my results with the forum.
> 
> 
> Here's my setup:
> 
> D2 running 1.12s
> 
> Inputs: PS3, cable (SA 8300HD), XBOX360, Wii
> 
> Video output: Pioneer 50" plasma @ 720p/60 (TV does not appear to accept native resolution)
> 
> 
> After upgrading, I noticed a definite improvement in PS3 output. I think the other sources look better also, but I'm certain about the PS3 improvement as I spent alot of time with it earlier evaluating various HDMI cables (currently using Bluejeans).
> 
> 
> However I'm experiencing 2 problems:
> 
> First and foremost, in about 1 out of every 3 power-ups, I get no video output from the D2. No brief hey-I'm-doing-something flickers, no OSD - nothing. I'm guessing this is tied to the order at which things are turned on (D2, TV, cable box, etc), but I have not found the magic sequence yet. When I was using 1.11, I had no problems powering things up in arbitrary order.
> 
> 
> In 1.11, I was able to enjoy audio with the TV off from a HDMI source. A typical scenario is listening to a cable music channel when the TV is off. In 1.12s, this no longer works. When I turn the TV off under 1.12s, the D2 attempts to "lock on" to the signal several times but never succeeds.
> 
> 
> Both issues have been reported to Nick at Anthem. Anyone else experiencing these issues? I noticed this recent posting which may be related to my power-up issues:




Krops,


I don't know if you have an older HDMI or use component on the Wii. Try starting up on a source you know works every time, then switch to the other source you want to look at. I'm assuming the Wii is most stable but I'm guessing. My HDTivo on Component is my stable source and that's what I start up with each time and it does through the viewing unit out of what.


It ios a royal pain as it takes my projector about 5 minutes to power down to a state I can power it back up, but starting up with HD Tivo works every time.


I do agree with a definite improvement in Picture Quality.


Tim


----------



## AnthemAVM

Wii doesn't have HDMI, make sure you have the componets mapped to the right setting on the set up menu.


Michael


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Make sure you have HDMI Repeater = NO set for each input using HDMI in Setup / Source Setup.
> 
> 
> That setting may have reverted to YES when you did the upgrade. The fact that you are losing HDMI audio input when your TV is turned off would be a symptom of this (i.e., the source is trying to query the TV through the Anthem to insure copy protection, et. al., and can't because the TV is powered off).
> 
> 
> If you have HDMI Repeater = NO and still aren't getting HDMI audio input when your TV is off, be sure to report this to Nick as it may be a key bit of evidence -- e.g., that the Repeater Yes/No function is not working correctly. This would also likely affect your power on problems.



Thanks for the suggestion. Actually Nick came back with the same idea










Unfortunately turning HDMI Repeater off for all HDMI sources did not make a difference - I still get no audio from PS3 or cable when the TV is off. I passed the results onto Nick also...


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Krops,
> 
> 
> I don't know if you have an older HDMI or use component on the Wii. Try starting up on a source you know works every time, then switch to the other source you want to look at. I'm assuming the Wii is most stable but I'm guessing. My HDTivo on Component is my stable source and that's what I start up with each time and it does through the viewing unit out of what.
> 
> 
> It ios a royal pain as it takes my projector about 5 minutes to power down to a state I can power it back up, but starting up with HD Tivo works every time.
> 
> 
> I do agree with a definite improvement in Picture Quality.
> 
> 
> Tim



Thanks for your input. I decided to take a methodical approach to startup to see if I can isolate what works and does not work in terms of getting video output under 1.12s. By video output, I mean getting anything from the D2 (Anthem logo, OSD, etc).


Here are the test results. Assume all components are off unless specifically started.
1. start D2 (source = Wii), wait until D2 is ready, start TV -> no video output (e.g. no OSD)

2. repeat -> no video output
3. start D2 (source = Cable), wait until D2 is ready, start TV -> video works!

4. repeat -> video works!
5. start TV, start D2 (source = Wii) -> no video output

6. repeat -> no video output

7. repeat -> no video output

8. start TV, start D2 (source = Cable) -> no video output
9. repeat -> video works!

10. repeat -> video works!

11. start TV, start D2 (source = PS3) -> video works!

12. repeat -> video works!

13. start PS3, start TV, start D2 (source = PS3) -> video works!

14. repeat -> video works!

15. start D2, cable and TV at same time -> video works!

16. repeat -> video works!

17. repeat -> video works!


Here are the source settings:

Cable - HDMI audio/video, HDMI Repater = off, Famelock = off

PS3 - HDMI audio/video, HDMI Repater = off, Famelock = off

Wii - component video / analog audio


Before doing these tests, I would normally start D2, cable and TV together (as in #15). This always worked in 1.11, but occasionally fails in 1.12s. But the "formal" testing above is showing all positives. So maybe I just need to slow down when powering everything on










The tests do show consistently the D2 will not output video when powered-on with the Wii (over component) as the initial source. I'll pass this along to Nick...


----------



## drdisc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Peter,
> 
> I thought you were referring to an audio calibration, although ISF is video DAA. I have a calibrator who you might have heard of Michael TLV. He has done 4 calibrations for me and comes to our area usually twice a year. He lives in Calgary but does alot of ISF in Toronto and Miss. He is coming out again in late Sept or early Oct. and I have booked him for several friends of mine. He is outstanding and actually teaches other calibrators at CES every year. He is an engineer by training and now does this half time while travelling the country doing the ISF.
> 
> Let me know if this interests you as he gets booked up quickly.
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> PS. I got a USB-Serial cable from The Source today but hope the new firmware comes out soon so I only have to do this once



Dear John:


I may be interested in retaining Michael TLV's expert service in late Sept/Oct as I have read that his calibration skills are top notch!


Can you give me a ballpark amount that he would charge for a housecall in Hamilton to configure and tune two output devices (TV and PJ) with D1-HD as the source?


Trying to stay on topic . . . !










Mark


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Peter,
> 
> Given your location and mine, I would be happy to help you get other products as I have a very good connection in Miss. for AV stuff.
> 
> 
> ps. off to read this thread



Sent you a PM


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where does one get and RS 232 cable. I have looked at computer stores and they don't seem to have them. Seems I need one to do the setup or install updates.



The Source is our store-formerly-known-as-Radio-Shack (sounds like it is run by Prince's marketing team!) I bought their USB-RS232 cable for the low 20buck range and it works perfectly with a D1.


Ah, I see you already bought it.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Before doing these tests, I would normally start D2, cable and TV together (as in #15). This always worked in 1.11, but occasionally fails in 1.12s. But the "formal" testing above is showing all positives except once. So maybe I just need to slow down when powering everything on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tests do show consistently the D2 will not output video when powered-on with the Wii (over component) as the initial source. I'll pass this along to Nick...



It sounds like Cable is your "key" startup device. It may be something you always leave powered on (like my HD Tivo) so it becomes a no brainer to


This is a plain PIA. I went from 11r back to 11q just to avoid this. I have stuck with 11s and this workaround, but it is distressing (and I'm glad to know the Anthem gods haven't singled me out







).


Go use of scientific method. I thought the odd behavior was HDMI related since the HD Tivo on component (for me) has been solid. Glad you are getting info back to Nick.


Tim


----------



## nine ball

Has anyone upgraded from 1.6 to 2.0 for the XA2 ?? If so did it work without incident? What version of D2 software are you running?


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. Actually Nick came back with the same idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately turning HDMI Repeater off for all HDMI sources did not make a difference - I still get no audio from PS3 or cable when the TV is off. I passed the results onto Nick also...



This should be very helpful information for them, and may be the key to figuring this out. If the Repeater Yes/No stuff is not responding correctly (obviously a bug) then there could be an easy answer to your problems.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns

I upgraded my XA2 TO 2.0 last night without incident. I have an AVM-50 running 1.12s, but have not had a chance to watch any movies yet.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone upgraded from 1.6 to 2.0 for the XA2 ?? If so did it work without incident? What version of D2 software are you running?
> 
> 
> Peter



When did 2.0 come out? I guess I've been spending too much time in the basement


----------



## ajeruns

Several days ago, I reported the issue with not getting audio/video via HDMI from Sony 300 Blu-Ray to AVM-50 to Nick. While waiting on a response from Nick, I decided to report issue to Sony also. Tried e mail and telephone. WHAT A JOKE THAT WAS. I was so disgusted, I returned the unit back and exchanged it for the new Panasonic BD10A even before Nick responded to me.


Yesterday I received a reply from Nick. He said Sony's official response to this issue is that AV Preamps are not supported.


My display does not accept 24 fps, so I didn't lose anything by exchanging the Sony for the Panny.


The Panny has performed flawlessly with my AVM-50 and I'm enjoying the advanced audio codecs offered in the Panny, which the Sony didn't. Watched Kingdom of Heaven last night and it sounded amazing.


----------



## ajeruns

About a week ago.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yesterday I received a reply from Nick. He said Sony's official response to this issue is that AV Preamps are not supported.



Yet another reason to hate Sony.


By the way, this is likely in direct contradiction to the HDMI licensing. I hope HDMI ORG is taking notes.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yet another reason to hate Sony.



Wow, such a "politically incorrect" statement coming from Bob?!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Oh, I've been a not so secret Sony hater ever since they were caught secretly putting buggy "root kit" technology onto people's computers just because people decided to listen to a DRM protected CD on their computer. The arrogance....


----------------------------------


Meanwhile, this thread is now the 6th most viewed thread on this forum -- and closing in on 5th.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yesterday I received a reply from Nick. He said Sony's official response to this issue is that AV Preamps are not supported.



THAT is *SO SONY* Support - *NOT OUR PROBLEM.*


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Several days ago, I reported the issue with not getting audio/video via HDMI from Sony 300 Blu-Ray to AVM-50 to Nick. While waiting on a response from Nick, I decided to report issue to Sony also. Tried e mail and telephone. WHAT A JOKE THAT WAS. I was so disgusted, I returned the unit back and exchanged it for the new Panasonic BD10A even before Nick responded to me.
> 
> 
> Yesterday I received a reply from Nick. He said Sony's official response to this issue is that AV Preamps are not supported.



Combining two pieces of info here, I think I may know now what's going on with this Sony 300 player.


I forget which version of software you are using, but if you are on a V1.12 version, and if the HDMI Repeater Yes/No selection is broken so that it always acts as Yes even if you have set No, and if Sony's flippant "official response" means what I think it means, then you'd get precisely the symptom you are reporting. To wit:


* I conjecture that the Sony 300 has a shoddy HDMI implementation which includes the infamous "HDCP Repeater Processing" bug. This bug has been ubiquitous in older cable TV boxes -- but of course that's no excuse for it to show up in a NEWLY released product. The bug is that the source device incorrectly implements that processing or doesn't even try to do it at all. HDMI Repeater Processing is the protocol by which the source inquires THROUGH the AVR as to whether the display on the other side is HDCP compliant. If the source doesn't do this, then the symptom will be that the source won't allow an HDMI connection to start up unless it is DIRECTLY connected to the TV.


* Anthem, however, has a clever workaround for this. The HDMI Repeater = NO setting causes the Anthem to lie to the source and tell the source that it is directly connected to a TV (a TV which happens to have unusually extensive ability to accept different styles of video and audio). Meanwhile the Anthem does the heavy lifting to make sure the OTHER side of the connection -- HDMI to the TV -- is properly copy protected, or that the TV is turned off so that the connection on that side is not active. The Anthem has to do this to maintain its own contractual obligations for HDCP compliance. So if you have HDMI Repeater = NO set, the Sony should believe it is directly connected to a TV and it should function properly despite Sony's washing of their hands.


[NOTE: HDMI Repeater = Yes is the Anthem factory default setting for each input -- probably due to demands from HDMI ORG that this be the default method. As far as I can tell, there's no good reason not to set HDMI Repeater = NO for each HDMI input source setup as one of the first things you do when setting up the Anthem.]


* But if the Anthem software V1.12 versions are broken so that HDMI Repeater acts as if it is set to Yes even when you have set it to No, then this workaround in the Anthem can't function properly.


If this is so, then it should be the case that Anthem users with HDMI TV's should not be able to listen to audio from an HDMI source when their TV is powered off (already confirmed by another poster) -- unless you have an unusual TV that keeps its HDMI input socket live and responsive even when the TV is in the Off/Standby mode. [EDITED TO ADD: It is possible for a source device to realize the TV is off, and thus the AVR is the end of the active part of the HDMI connection and audio should be allowed through, but many sources don't bother to do this either.]


It should also be the case that Anthem users with the older cable TV boxes that ALSO have this HDMI Repeater Processing bug should now be finding that they can't make any HDMI connections work from the cable box to the Anthem when running the Anthem V1.12 "test" software versions. Component video connections will always work however.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It was previously confirmed (by Anthem) that the HDMI V1.3 output of the PS3 could cause the video processor in the Anthem to overheat in at least some of the V1.11 software versions. The symptom was that the overheating video processor in the Anthem repeatedly crashed and reset itself -- periodic loss of video. The workaround for folks bitten by this was to provide an external fan over the Anthem to increase the cooling of the video processor.


I forget which posters here had this problem, but I'd like to hear from any of you as to whether you STILL need an external fan when using the PS3 as input under the Anthem V1.12s "test" software version.


On the contrary, if any users who were having NO SUCH problems with the PS3 have now discovered that they NEED to add an external fan with V1.12s, that too would be useful information.

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It was previously confirmed (by Anthem) that the HDMI V1.3 output of the PS3 could cause the video processor in the Anthem to overheat in at least some of the V1.11 software versions. The symptom was that the overheating video processor in the Anthem repeatedly crashed and reset itself -- periodic loss of video. The workaround for folks bitten by this was to provide an external fan over the Anthem to increase the cooling of the video processor.
> 
> 
> I forget which posters here had this problem, but I'd like to hear from any of you as to whether you STILL need an external fan when using the PS3 as input under the Anthem V1.12s "test" software version.
> 
> 
> On the contrary, if any users who were having NO SUCH problems with the PS3 have now discovered that they NEED to add an external fan with V1.12s, that too would be useful information.
> 
> --Bob



That would be me, for one. I'll turn off the fans later today and let you know the results.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I do agree with a definite improvement in Picture Quality.



Yeah, not sure what changed in 1.12s, but PS3 games and video are just easier to watch. There was nothing obvious "wrong" with PQ under 1.11 (to me anyway), but 1.12s seems to have smoother motion and a better sense of objects on the screen. Go Anthem!


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am having the darnedest time trying to get the navigation buttons to work properly through my Pronto Pro NG TSU7000. It doesn't matter if I use the configuration file from the Anthem website or the configuration file posted by Randy or I learn the codes directly from my Anthem remote, the codes do not work properly with my D2. I have to hit the navigation buttons 9 or 10 times to get the cursor to move and when it moves it does not move a consistent distance. Sometimes it move one spot sometimes it move three spots or sometimes it moves five spots.
> 
> 
> Am I the one person having this issue? Can some suggest solutions other than buying a new remote.



Earlier, I had the problem where pressing a cursor key once would act as if I had pressed the key twice. The following are the new versions of the cursor keys that I use with my Pronto TSU7000. They work fine for me. FYI, just in case it makes a difference (very very rare, but possible), I am not using IR out of my TSU7000. I use RF, and then the RFX6500 converts it to IR and passes it on to my Anthem D2.


Cursor Up

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Cursor Right

----------------


0000 0071 0000 0022 0136 0096 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03B8



Hope these work for you.


----------



## cpcat

Re: Sony bdp300.


You must power on the Sony and allow it to fully boot up with the AVM50 switched to another input (other than the bdp300). Then switch to the Sony input and it syncs up. This is the only way I've found it will work. After that, it works fine to switch back and forth or whatever. Once the Sony is powered off however, you must repeat the whole process again. It doesn't seem to matter whether HDMI repeater=on or off on the AVM50 so I've left mine off.


I'm running 1.11e on the AVM50.


----------



## lazarus28

I have an HTPC hooked up via component at 1080i/30 (because I don't have a Gefen DVI thingie yet) to my D1-HD to my panasonic 1080p projector. My question is this: when using Gametap specifically, the output is always 16x9, even when the game is normally 4x3. (This is what I want, no? Have it render at the higher resolutions and let the Anthem scale?) I've played with all the settings in the 7 menu, and generally have a good understanding of this stuff, but I cannot for the life of me get the proper aspect ratio to appear on the screen. On my Samsung LCD, I only need press the ASPECT button on the remote and voila!, but I can't make the Anthem sqeeze the pixels for me! Can anybody tell me what I'm doing wrong here?




=)


-j


----------



## lazarus28

Also - I am running 1.12q and all video is being sent via HDMI to the projector.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lazarus28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have an HTPC hooked up via component at 1080i/30 (because I don't have a Gefen DVI thingie yet) to my D1-HD to my panasonic 1080p projector. My question is this: when using Gametap specifically, the output is always 16x9, even when the game is normally 4x3. (This is what I want, no? Have it render at the higher resolutions and let the Anthem scale?) I've played with all the settings in the 7 menu, and generally have a good understanding of this stuff, but I cannot for the life of me get the proper aspect ratio to appear on the screen. On my Samsung LCD, I only need press the ASPECT button on the remote and voila!, but I can't make the Anthem sqeeze the pixels for me! Can anybody tell me what I'm doing wrong here?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> =)
> 
> 
> -j



First, set your HTPC video output to believe it is talking to a 16:9 TV. If it is actually rendering graphics on the fly then it should render it at its highest resolution. If it is passing along pre-recorded stuff (such as playing a DVD) it should send that stuff along with as little change as possible. That means standard DVD content should be sent at 480i if possible. For 480i or 480p 4:3 content (old movies or DVDs of TV shows), the HTPC should be set as if to "uniformly stretch" the content to fill the 16:9 output frame left to right (circles look like wide ovals). I.e., don't have the HTPC generate pillar box bars around such stuff. This actually means the HTPC is not doing anything to that content. For 4:3 content that happens to be in a higher resolution frame, it's OK to do it either way, i.e., you could have the HTPC generate the pillar box bars much as if you were watching an SDTV program broadcast on an HDTV channel.


Finally, see if you can set the HTPC to send the appropriate HDMI flag to specify whether the content coming over is 16:9 or 4:3.


On the Anthem side, set Video Source Adjust / Crop Input = 16:9 if the content you are interested in seeing on screen is a 16:9 shape. Set 4:3 otherwise. If the HTPC sends the HDMI flag I just described the HDMI Auto setting will do this for you on the fly, but you can override the flag by setting it manually.


So basically the Crop Input setting specifies the portion of the input signal that's of interest to you -- which also specifies the input image shape.


Now your TV screen is 16:9. If the input is cropped to 16:9 then there's nothing that needs to be done.


If the input is cropped to 4:3 (or some custom shape as for example with a 2.35 aspect ratio movie) then you have to tell the Anthem what to do about the fact that the input shape doesn't match the 16:9 shape of your screen.


You could tell the Anthem to leave the input shape unaltered and to pad it out with blank imaging (usually black) to fill the 16:9 shape. That's Scale Out / Letter Pillar Box. Whether Letter Boxing or Pillar Boxing are applied depends on how the input shape compares to the 16:9 output shape. I.e. is it not wide enough or not tall enough.


Or you could tell the Anthem to uniformly stretch the input shape to fill the screen. That's Scale Out / Anamorphic. Whether vertical or horizontal stretching is done depends on how the input shape compares to the 16:9 output shape.


Another choice, Panoramic, fills the screen like Anamorphic but does it with non-uniform stretch so that the center of the image is less distorted and more of the distortion is concentrated away from the center.


When playing with cropping, it is easier to see what is going on if you set Scale Out / Letter Pillar Box. Once you've got the crop you want, you can switch to Anamorphic to have the Anthem stretch the image to fill the screen if you prefer. And remember that the source may be flagging the shape of the input video so if you have Crop Input / HDMI Auto set you might be confused until you understand what is going on.


Also remember that if you have the SOURCE generating letter or pillar box bars (something you should only do if the source is sending resolution higher than 480p) then those letter or pillar box bars are PART OF THE INPUT CONTENT. The Anthem can't know they have no useful imaging in them. But you know. And if you'd like you can set a Custom crop input setting.


EXAMPLE: The input source is a 16:9 movie embedded in a 4:3 frame (as if the movie was being broadcast letterboxed by an SDTV station) but that combo is also embedded in a 16:9 HDTV frame. The result is that the 16:9 movie floats in the middle of the screen with black around all 4 sides. And changing Scale Out / Anamorphic or Letter Pillar Box does not alter this because the Anthem sees a 16:9 input frame and doesn't know that this includes a wide black border all around the REAL movie image.


SOLUTION: Set a Crop Input / Custom setting which is 1440 pixels wide by 810 lines high. This will extract the 16:9 subset centered on a 4:3 SDTV image embedded in the middle of a 16:9 HDTV frame. Since this crop happens to have a 16:9 shape, it doesn't matter whether Scale Out is Anamorphic or Letter Pillar Box. The input shape already matches the 16:9 shape needed for output. So only the resolution will be scaled by the Anthem.


Finally remember that there are shortcuts to the Crop Input and Scale Out selections available under the Mode key of the remote. Press and Hold to get to Scale Out, then release (pause briefly) and press again for Crop Input, again for Frame Lock, and once more for Gamma Correction. The Up and Down arrows let you change whichever setting is currently being displayed. After a few seconds the setting will vanish and go back to just the normal, audio mode display.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Re: Sony bdp300.
> 
> 
> You must power on the Sony and allow it to fully boot up with the AVM50 switched to another input (other than the bdp300). Then switch to the Sony input and it syncs up. This is the only way I've found it will work. After that, it works fine to switch back and forth or whatever. Once the Sony is powered off however, you must repeat the whole process again. It doesn't seem to matter whether HDMI repeater=on or off on the AVM50 so I've left mine off.
> 
> 
> I'm running 1.11e on the AVM50.



That is the same sequence the Pioneer owners have to use

with the new Pioneer Software - version 3.40. Tolstoi discovered

this sequence while Pioneer works on the problem.


We know SONY and PIONEER share the same code - oh GOD

I'm not suppose to imply that










Rather than say share the same code - while don't we just

say they both have the same sets of problems.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I suspect there may be TWO problems here. First this power on sequence that the Sony and Pioneer software demand (silly engineers). And second, that at least the Sony may not work right unless HDMI Repeater = NO is functioning -- which it certainly is in the V1.11 software versions and apparently isn't in the V1.12 software versions. Only this second issue would justify Sony claiming their player is not designed to work with AVRs.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Finally got my bass back to at least where it was prior to the AVM 50. Bass is awesome and in some respects tighter. Detail in the sound of movies is amazing. My surround channels sound like someone woke them up. I have calibrated the sound so it well balanced and it sounds like someone widened the room dimensions when I wasn't looking. If it sounds this good now, I can't wait for the better firmware and detailed tweaking that can be done. Oh, btw, the video is being downconverted to 720p, native resolution of pj, but picture looks more 3D.

Now to just watch a movie and forget tweaking, yeah right


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I suspect there may be TWO problems here. First this power on sequence that the Sony and Pioneer software demand (silly engineers). And second, that at least the Sony may not work right unless HDMI Repeater = NO is functioning -- which it certainly is in the V1.11 software versions and apparently isn't in the V1.12 software versions. Only this second issue would justify Sony claiming their player is not designed to work with AVRs.
> 
> --Bob



The Pioneers never had any problem until this

release #3 of the firmware. Version 1 and 2

were just fine. Nick debugged the problem

for Pioneer and Pioneer is working on a fix.


----------



## lazarus28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> First, set your HTPC video output to believe it is talking to a 16:9 TV. If it is actually rendering graphics on the fly then it should render it at its highest resolution. If it is passing along pre-recorded stuff (such as playing a DVD) it should send that stuff along with as little change as possible. That means standard DVD content should be sent at 480i if possible. For 480i or 480p 4:3 content (old movies or DVDs of TV shows), the HTPC should be set as if to "uniformly stretch" the content to fill the 16:9 output frame left to right (circles look like wide ovals). I.e., don't have the HTPC generate pillar box bars around such stuff. This actually means the HTPC is not doing anything to that content. For 4:3 content that happens to be in a higher resolution frame, it's OK to do it either way, i.e., you could have the HTPC generate the pillar box bars much as if you were watching an SDTV program broadcast on an HDTV channel.
> 
> 
> Finally, see if you can set the HTPC to send the appropriate HDMI flag to specify whether the content coming over is 16:9 or 4:3.
> 
> 
> On the Anthem side, set Video Source Adjust / Crop Input = 16:9 if the content you are interested in seeing on screen is a 16:9 shape. Set 4:3 otherwise. If the HTPC sends the HDMI flag I just described the HDMI Auto setting will do this for you on the fly, but you can override the flag by setting it manually.
> 
> 
> So basically the Crop Input setting specifies the portion of the input signal that's of interest to you -- which also specifies the input image shape.
> 
> 
> Now your TV screen is 16:9. If the input is cropped to 16:9 then there's nothing that needs to be done.
> 
> 
> If the input is cropped to 4:3 (or some custom shape as for example with a 2.35 aspect ratio movie) then you have to tell the Anthem what to do about the fact that the input shape doesn't match the 16:9 shape of your screen.
> 
> 
> You could tell the Anthem to leave the input shape unaltered and to pad it out with blank imaging (usually black) to fill the 16:9 shape. That's Scale Out / Letter Pillar Box. Whether Letter Boxing or Pillar Boxing are applied depends on how the input shape compares to the 16:9 output shape. I.e. is it not wide enough or not tall enough.
> 
> 
> Or you could tell the Anthem to uniformly stretch the input shape to fill the screen. That's Scale Out / Anamorphic. Whether vertical or horizontal stretching is done depends on how the input shape compares to the 16:9 output shape.
> 
> 
> Another choice, Panoramic, fills the screen like Anamorphic but does it with non-uniform stretch so that the center of the image is less distorted and more of the distortion is concentrated away from the center.
> 
> 
> When playing with cropping, it is easier to see what is going on if you set Scale Out / Letter Pillar Box. Once you've got the crop you want, you can switch to Anamorphic to have the Anthem stretch the image to fill the screen if you prefer. And remember that the source may be flagging the shape of the input video so if you have Crop Input / HDMI Auto set you might be confused until you understand what is going on.
> 
> 
> Also remember that if you have the SOURCE generating letter or pillar box bars (something you should only do if the source is sending resolution higher than 480p) then those letter or pillar box bars are PART OF THE INPUT CONTENT. The Anthem can't know they have no useful imaging in them. But you know. And if you'd like you can set a Custom crop input setting.
> 
> 
> EXAMPLE: The input source is a 16:9 movie embedded in a 4:3 frame (as if the movie was being broadcast letterboxed by an SDTV station) but that combo is also embedded in a 16:9 HDTV frame. The result is that the 16:9 movie floats in the middle of the screen with black around all 4 sides. And changing Scale Out / Anamorphic or Letter Pillar Box does not alter this because the Anthem sees a 16:9 input frame and doesn't know that this includes a wide black border all around the REAL movie image.
> 
> 
> SOLUTION: Set a Crop Input / Custom setting which is 1440 pixels wide by 810 lines high. This will extract the 16:9 subset centered on a 4:3 SDTV image embedded in the middle of a 16:9 HDTV frame. Since this crop happens to have a 16:9 shape, it doesn't matter whether Scale Out is Anamorphic or Letter Pillar Box. The input shape already matches the 16:9 shape needed for output. So only the resolution will be scaled by the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Finally remember that there are shortcuts to the Crop Input and Scale Out selections available under the Mode key of the remote. Press and Hold to get to Scale Out, then release (pause briefly) and press again for Crop Input, again for Frame Lock, and once more for Gamma Correction. The Up and Down arrows let you change whichever setting is currently being displayed. After a few seconds the setting will vanish and go back to just the normal, audio mode display.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you very much, Bob! However, maybe I should be a bit more specific: All application being done on the PC are being rendered on the fly, ie - no prerecorded content. (I have a PS3 and XA-2 for that) I shouldn't have called it an HTPC because it isn't used for HT at all, just gaming in the HT.


Secondly - I want to play all the games in their proper aspect ratios (most of which are 4x3). The issue is that the PC knows it is sending to a 16x9 display, so it renders it using the fat-pixels-stretched-look. I want the Anthem to undo that. If I change the crop to 4x3 in the Anthem, I lose a huge portion of the image. I need the Anthem to get a 16x9 image with fat pixels at 1080i/30, then to have the pixels re-sqeezed with black bars on the left and right. So, the anthem would be getting a 16x9 rendering of a 4x3 signal, and re-sqeezing the pixels to the proper 4x3 shape.


Does this make any sense or am I plumb loco?


----------



## lazarus28

A better explanation (maybe):


You know how you are supposed to set a cable box to send the unaltered image to the Anthem with the fat-pixel stretch, then set the Anthem to "letterbox/pillar" so that the black bars et generated by the Anthem and the sqeeze is applied?


I want that with a 1080i/30 input signal. (but only sometimes!) Is that possible? I don't mind going into the 7 menu and changing the aspect ratio manually every time.


I thought that was all I would have to do to get it to work, but it does nothing to the signal at all. It works with 480 sources. Can it only do it up to 480?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lazarus28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A better explanation (maybe):
> 
> 
> You know how you are supposed to set a cable box to send the unaltered image to the Anthem with the fat-pixel stretch, then set the Anthem to "letterbox/pillar" so that the black bars et generated by the Anthem and the sqeeze is applied?
> 
> 
> I want that with a 1080i/30 input signal. (but only sometimes!) Is that possible? I don't mind going into the 7 menu and changing the aspect ratio manually every time.
> 
> 
> I thought that was all I would have to do to get it to work, but it does nothing to the signal at all. It works with 480 sources. Can it only do it up to 480?



It sounds like your gaming setup is already doing Anamorphic stretch to scale the 4:3 game content to a 16:9 shape as it renders it. It is then telling the Anthem that the input is 16:9.


This is the equivalent of an HDTV channel broadcasting an SDTV program but stretching it out to fill the screen left to right.


The Anthem won't resqueeze that unless you set it's video output resolution to a 4:3 shape, which you probably shouldn't do.


So instead, tell your gaming setup that it is talking to a 16:9 TV but you want it to generate pilllar boxes around the 4:3 game content it is producing. This is not a problem if it is both rendering and sending high resolution video to the Anthem (there are plenty of high res pixels that can be used to hold those pillar box bars). That should do it for you. In the Anthem you would then want Crop Input / 16:9 (or HDMI Auto) and Scale Out doesn't matter.

--Bob


----------



## lazarus28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It sounds like your gaming setup is already doing Anamorphic stretch to scale the 4:3 game content to a 16:9 shape as it renders it. It is then telling the Anthem that the input is 16:9.
> 
> 
> This is the equivalent of an HDTV channel broadcasting an SDTV program but stretching it out to fill the screen left to right.
> 
> 
> The Anthem won't resqueeze that unless you set it's video output resolution to a 4:3 shape, which you probably shouldn't do.
> 
> 
> So instead, tell your gaming setup that it is talking to a 16:9 TV but you want it to generate pilllar boxes around the 4:3 game content it is producing. This is not a problem if it is both rendering and sending high resolution video to the Anthem (there are plenty of high res pixels that can be used to hold those pillar box bars). That should do it for you. In the Anthem you would then want Crop Input / 16:9 (or HDMI Auto) and Scale Out doesn't matter.
> 
> --Bob



That's the answer I was looking for. Now, off to another forum to find out how to make the video card or Gametap software do that!


Thanks very much for the help!


----------



## Joe C5

Well, has anyone played around with using the PS3 to play SA-CD's? I'm going to have to get all my SA-CD players out of the closet and compare them because the one I am using now sounds like a boom-box compared to the PS3 (over HDMI). Plus I don't think I have the PS3 set to the optimum output (it was 88 KHz - I think it will do 192 KHz). A nice surprise. Just curious if anyone else has tried this with their D1/D2/AVM50 (and what their opinion was)...


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone upgraded from 1.6 to 2.0 for the XA2 ?? If so did it work without incident? What version of D2 software are you running?
> 
> 
> Peter



It downloaded and installed easier than all prior versions. Unfortunately I notice an occasional drop out, even though it was rock solid in prior releases (for me).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, has anyone played around with using the PS3 to play SA-CD's? I'm going to have to get all my SA-CD players out of the closet and compare them because the one I am using now sounds like a boom-box compared to the PS3 (over HDMI). Plus I don't think I have the PS3 set to the optimum output (it was 88 KHz - I think it will do 192 KHz). A nice surprise. Just curious if anyone else has tried this with their D1/D2/AVM50 (and what their opinion was)...



We've had some very good comments on SACD from the PS3. In fact some feel they can hear an improvement over SACD from the Oppo 970 (again over HDMI) which is also no slouch.


Keep in mind that you need to have the PS3's HDMI output resolution set to 720p or higher or you won't be able to get the full multi-channel audio set to fit in the HDMI signal (HDMI audio is multiplexed into the video signal so the max audio bandwidth is limited to a percentage of the current video bandwidth). This is likely what you are already doing with the PS3, but some Oppo users have been confused by this when they had their Oppo set to HDMI 480i output for standard DVDs and then tried to play SACD or DVD-Audio.

--Bob


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We've had some very good comments on SACD from the PS3. In fact some feel they can hear an improvement over SACD from the Oppo 970 (again over HDMI) which is also no slouch.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that you need to have the PS3's HDMI output resolution set to 720p or higher or you won't be able to get the full multi-channel audio set to fit in the HDMI signal (HDMI audio is multiplexed into the video signal so the max audio bandwidth is limited to a percentage of the current video bandwidth). This is likely what you are already doing with the PS3, but some Oppo users have been confused by this when they had their Oppo set to HDMI 480i output for standard DVDs and then tried to play SACD or DVD-Audio.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I finally finished the audio setup of my D2 with the Oppo 970. While I was playing a few DVD-Audio and SACD discs, I noticed that Brothers In Arms (DVD-Audio) was coming in at 6 channel 48 and Dark Side of the Moon (SACD) was coming in at 6 channel 88.2, even though I had the Oppo set to 480i over HDMI. I actually forgot to change the Oppo to a higher res. Does this make sense?


Buddy


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Earlier, I had the problem where pressing a cursor key once would act as if I had pressed the key twice. The following are the new versions of the cursor keys that I use with my Pronto TSU7000. They work fine for me. FYI, just in case it makes a difference (very very rare, but possible), I am not using IR out of my TSU7000. I use RF, and then the RFX6500 converts it to IR and passes it on to my Anthem D2.
> 
> 
> Cursor Up
> 
> ------------
> 
> 0000 0071 0000 0022 0136 0096 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03B8
> 
> 
> 
> Cursor Down
> 
> ----------------
> 
> 
> 0000 0071 0000 0022 0136 0096 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03B8
> 
> 
> 
> Cursor Left
> 
> --------------
> 
> 
> 0000 0071 0000 0022 0136 0096 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03B8
> 
> 
> Cursor Right
> 
> ----------------
> 
> 
> 0000 0071 0000 0022 0136 0096 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03B8
> 
> 
> 
> Hope these work for you.



Randman,


Thank you. Unfortunately these are the same codes I am working with, so it looks like I am going to need two remotes which really sucks. I almost threw the remote across the house. This is so frustrating!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I finally finished the audio setup of my D2 with the Oppo 970. While I was playing a few DVD-Audio and SACD discs, I noticed that Brothers In Arms (DVD-Audio) was coming in at 6 channel 48 and Dark Side of the Moon (SACD) was coming in at 6 channel 88.2, even though I had the Oppo set to 480i over HDMI. I actually forgot to change the Oppo to a higher res. Does this make sense?
> 
> 
> Buddy



Well I suppose it's possible that Oppo has finally put in the stuff to handle this automatically, but I'm surprised.


What does Video Source Adjust / Info say you are receiving as video input resolution from the Oppo when you are playing these?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randman,
> 
> 
> Thank you. Unfortunately these are the same codes I am working with, so it looks like I am going to need two remotes which really sucks. I almost threw the remote across the house. This is so frustrating!



I don't have one of the remotes you are using but the usual problem with this sort of thing is what's called the "Repeat Count". Some devices need to see a code sequence more than once before they believe it. But the Anthem is quick enough to respond to a code sequence even if it sees it just once. So see if you can turn down the Repeat Count in your remote -- the number of times it repeats each code sequence it sends.


Also go into the Anthem Setup menu and make sure you have turned off the IR inputs you are not using. Your remote may be blasting a strong enough signal that it is not only being seen by the front IR input but is shining through the vent holes and is being picked up by the rear IR inputs.


See page 38 of the Anthem manual.

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It was previously confirmed (by Anthem) that the HDMI V1.3 output of the PS3 could cause the video processor in the Anthem to overheat in at least some of the V1.11 software versions. The symptom was that the overheating video processor in the Anthem repeatedly crashed and reset itself -- periodic loss of video. The workaround for folks bitten by this was to provide an external fan over the Anthem to increase the cooling of the video processor.
> 
> 
> I forget which posters here had this problem, but I'd like to hear from any of you as to whether you STILL need an external fan when using the PS3 as input under the Anthem V1.12s "test" software version.
> 
> 
> On the contrary, if any users who were having NO SUCH problems with the PS3 have now discovered that they NEED to add an external fan with V1.12s, that too would be useful information.
> 
> --Bob



I am pleased to report that with 1.12s on the D2 and 1.82 on the PS3 I no longer experience heat-related VP crashes. This is with the added cooling fans off, static fresh air around the unit, warm (79F) room. Actually, I left the unpowered 120mm fan sitting on top of the unit impeding convection somewhat, so this was actually a slightly worse condition. Previously (1.11g) I would get a VP crash every 10 seconds or so under similar conditions. The top of the case still feels very hot, so I will run the cooling fan anyway as cooler is better.


Now if only Anthem could fix my "static pops" on PCM inputs...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am pleased to report that with 1.12s on the D2 and 1.82 on the PS3 I no longer experience heat-related VP crashes. This is with the added cooling fans off, static fresh air around the unit, warm (79F) room. Actually, I left the unpowered 120mm fan sitting on top of the unit impeding convection somewhat, so this was actually a slightly worse condition. Previously (1.11g) I would get a VP crash every 10 seconds or so under similar conditions. The top of the case still feels very hot, so I will run the cooling fan anyway as cooler is better.
> 
> 
> Now if only Anthem could fix my "static pops" on PCM inputs...



That's good news on the PS3 support! Thanks for checking. I must admit I'm curious what Anthem had to do to fix this.


Remind me what your issue was with "static pops". Any chance you have a source of electrical interference that might be screwing up the incoming PCM?

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Remind me what your issue was with "static pops". Any chance you have a source of electrical interference that might be screwing up the incoming PCM?
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for your interest - I'll take any advice or try any diagnostics you can think of. For details, including a sound sample and waveforms, see post #5515 .


Nick is stumped so far, but is trying to send me serial control software and instructions to send a string to the D2 to see if that makes a difference. He refers to it as the "ex_rename trick". However, Anthem has been unable to send the software successfully as any email with the attachment doesn't go thru (to me, my wife, my work or my dealer, even though firmware updates as an attachments go thru fine). Frank has snail-mailed the software to my dealer but it hasn't arrived yet. You don't happen to have the serial control software they are trying to send, do you? If so, please PM me and we'll find a way to transfer it electronically...


Also, here's additional info on the ticks that I sent to Nick:
More information for you, trying all combinations of PS3 settings for disc audio track selection (Dolby Digital or PCM Uncompressed tracks on Casino Royale) and PS3-D2 HDMI audio format (bitstream or PCM):


track HDMI ticks?

------ ---------- --------

DD bitstream no

DD PCM yes

PCM bitstream yes

PCM PCM yes


So if the source is DD and the decoding is done in the D2, then no ticks. If the D2 receives PCM (either from the disk source being unencoded or the decoding being done in the PS3) then I get ticks.


----------



## Joe C5

Thanks for the responses on the PS3. I will have to do some experimenting today...


3no - Nick never did send me the serial tool either (maybe something amiss on his end?). However I was able to find a tool on the internet. I will find out what it was when I get back later today... (And by the way, do you possibly leave the sound up on your TV at the same time? - my Sony does that a lot if I foget to turn it down).


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 3no - Nick never did send me the serial tool either (maybe something amiss on his end?). However I was able to find a tool on the internet. I will find out what it was when I get back later today... (And by the way, do you possibly leave the sound up on your TV at the same time? - my Sony does that a lot if I foget to turn it down).



Yeah, I think it's on his end - he couldn't get it thru to my dealer, wife, or office either - all on separate ISPs.


What problem were you trying to solve with the serial tool? Do you know what ex_rename is or the serial string to send to do it? His instructions were in the same zip file as the serial utility so I don't have those either. Thanks for checking on the web link.


My D2 feeds a projector, so I can't have the TV sound problem you referenced.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am having the darnedest time trying to get the navigation buttons to work properly through my Pronto Pro NG TSU7000. It doesn't matter if I use the configuration file from the Anthem website or the configuration file posted by Randy or I learn the codes directly from my Anthem remote, the codes do not work properly with my D2. I have to hit the navigation buttons 9 or 10 times to get the cursor to move and when it moves it does not move a consistent distance. Sometimes it move one spot sometimes it move three spots or sometimes it moves five spots.
> 
> 
> Am I the one person having this issue? Can some suggest solutions other than buying a new remote.



How are the OTHER Parameters for the Cursor Keys

in your pronto set - such as duration. etc?


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How are the OTHER Parameters for the Cursor Keys
> 
> in your pronto set - such as duration. etc?




My duration is set to "Default". I have experimented with values from .01 to .5 seconds. All with no luck.


Any other settings you recommend I check out?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My duration is set to "Default". I have experimented with values from .01 to .5 seconds. All with no luck.
> 
> 
> Any other settings you recommend I check out?



I'm firing up my Pronto Editor now to see what else I

might Suggest.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My duration is set to "Default". I have experimented with values from .01 to .5 seconds. All with no luck.
> 
> 
> Any other settings you recommend I check out?



I didn't find any other parameters that I thought

might effect your problem.


I assume you are using IR versus RF?


I assume the Anthem remote works.


If Anthem works - I would suspect the Pronto.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah, I think it's on his end - he couldn't get it thru to my dealer, wife, or office either - all on separate ISPs.
> 
> 
> What problem were you trying to solve with the serial tool? Do you know what ex_rename is or the serial string to send to do it? His instructions were in the same zip file as the serial utility so I don't have those either. Thanks for checking on the web link.
> 
> 
> My D2 feeds a projector, so I can't have the TV sound problem you referenced.



This is where I got the serial program:
http://www.scaleprogrammers.com/rs-232_monitor.htm 

My problem was the occasional shutdown during power-up (since mostly fixed in the latest release). I think the EXE_rename thing is just that he was going to send the file as xxx.EXE_rename and we were supposed to rename it to xxx.exe. In my case he sent a single command to spit out a bunch of data while the unit is running (he may have a different one for you - mine began with an @).

Since I now have a PS3 (though I use the evil Pioneer for most things) if I get a chance I will see if I can reproduce it (any specifics?).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for your interest - I'll take any advice or try any diagnostics you can think of. For details, including a sound sample and waveforms, see post #5515 .



This is certainly bizarre.


The first thing to do is to eliminate any possible external interference source, as well as the signal path in the Anthem that transfers HDMI PCM to the rest of the audio system. The way to do that is to try a different HDMI PCM source device.


The simplest would be any HDMI CD player -- an Oppo 970 for example, but it could be whatever your Anthem dealer can loan you to try at home. HDMI CD playback is 2-channel PCM. [Optical audio cable playback of CDs is also 2-channel PCM, and it would be useful to know if the ticks also appear when hooked up that way, but let's stick to HDMI for now to cut down the number of variables.]


So play a music CD on the PS3 and see if you still get the ticks when the Anthem is receiving that 2 channel HDMI PCM. Then play the same CD on the different HDMI CD player -- keeping the rest of the setup as close to identical as possible (same location, same power source, same HDMI cable to the Anthem) and see if the ticks go away.


If you can't get ticks when the PS3 is playing CDs, that implies an issue with the multi-channel PCM path (as opposed to 2-channel PCM) and we can try some experiments there. For example does the presence of ticks depend on the video output resolution from the PS3?


If you get ticks from both the PS3 *AND* the different CD player, that implies either some external interference source, or a broken PCM data path from the HDMI receiver of the Anthem to the rest of the Anthem audio circuitry and we can try some experiments there. For example, take your PS3 and Anthem to the dealer (along with the different CD player) and see if ticks appear on your Anthem hooked up in his shop, and then on a DIFFERENT Anthem hooked up in his shop. To confirm, also try the different CD player. No ticks either way means an external interference source in your house. Ticks on your Anthem but not on the different Anthem in his shop means your Anthem is broken. Ticks on BOTH Anthems in his shop will be the nastiest situation, since that implies a processing bug in the Anthems.


But if you get ticks from the PS3 and no ticks from the different CD player in your home setup, that implies the PS3 is broken (or there is an error in your setup of the PS3). To confirm this you would need to (1) try your PS3 with a different HDMI receiver to see if the ticks are still there, and (2) try a new PS3 with your Anthem to see if the ticks go away.


-----------------------------------------


I don't have the Serial tool Nick is offering, and I don't know what the EX_Rename command string might be.

--Bob


[EDITED to clarify a bit.]


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is certainly bizarre.
> 
> 
> The first thing to do is to eliminate any possible external interference source, as well as the signal path in the Anthem that transfers HDMI PCM to the rest of the audio system. The way to do that is to try a different HDMI PCM source device.
> 
> 
> The simplest would be any HDMI CD player -- an Oppo 970 for example, but it could be whatever your Anthem dealer can loan you to try at home. HDMI CD playback is 2-channel PCM. [Optical audio cable playback of CDs is also 2-channel PCM, and it would be useful to know if the ticks also appear when hooked up that way, but let's stick to HDMI for now to cut down the number of variables.]
> 
> 
> So play a music CD on the PS3 and see if you still get the ticks when the Anthem is receiving that 2 channel PCM. Then play the same CD on the different HDMI CD player -- keeping the rest of the setup as close to identical as possible (same location, same power source, same HDMI cable to the Anthem) and see if the ticks to away.
> 
> 
> If you can't get ticks when the PS3 is playing CDs, that implies an issue with the multi-channel PCM path (as opposed to 2-channel PCM) and we can try some experiments there. For example does the presence of ticks depend on the video output resolution from the PS3?
> 
> 
> If you get ticks from both the PS3 *AND* the different CD player, that implies either some external interference source, or a broken PCM data path from the HDMI receiver of the Anthem to the rest of the Anthem audio circuitry and we can try some experiments there. For example, take your PS3 and Anthem to the dealer (along with the different CD player) and see if ticks appear on your Anthem hooked up in his shop, and then on a DIFFERENT Anthem hooked up in his shop. To confirm, also try the different CD player. No ticks either way means an external interference source in your house. Ticks on your Anthem but not on the different Anthem in his shop means your Anthem is broken. Ticks on BOTH Anthems in his shop will be the nastiest situation, since that implies a processing bug in the Anthems.
> 
> 
> But if you get ticks from the PS3 and no ticks from the different CD player, that implies the PS3 is broken. To confirm this you would need to (1) try your PS3 with a different HDMI receiver to see if the ticks are still there, and (2) try a new PS3 with your Anthem to see if the ticks go away.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I don't have the Serial tool Nick is offering, and I don't know what the EX_Rename command string might be.
> 
> --Bob



In the past I too had click problems with my D2 when using my Tvix 4100sh and an external usb dvd rom drive..


When I played my oppo, tvix, got clicks in PCM stream, 5 or 2 channel.. But, PS3 was fine....


Found the problem was my dvd usb drive for the Tvix.. I had it plugged into the same extension cable as the tvix.. When I unplugged the drive, or unhooked the usb cable, the clicks went away..


So, I plugged the usb drive into it's own AC plug, and boom.. all worked awesome with oppo, tvix.. No clicks..


Seemed like a ground issue was messing up the D2 with it's Digital board..



So for you FYI, I had the clicks with coax digital also..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In the past I too had click problems with my D2 when using my Tvix 4100sh and an external usb dvd rom drive..
> 
> 
> When I played my oppo, tvix, got clicks in PCM stream, 5 or 2 channel.. But, PS3 was fine....
> 
> 
> Found the problem was my dvd usb drive for the Tvix.. I had it plugged into the same extension cable as the tvix.. When I unplugged the drive, or unhooked the usb cable, the clicks went away..
> 
> 
> So, I plugged the usb drive into it's own AC plug, and boom.. all worked awesome with oppo, tvix.. No clicks..
> 
> 
> Seemed like a ground issue was messing up the D2 with it's Digital board..
> 
> 
> 
> So for you FYI, I had the clicks with coax digital also..



Yes, that could be it for 3NO as well.


The testing I described above will help isolate whether there is an external interference problem.


Another approach for testing for interference is as follows:


Disconnect everything from the Anthem except for power and the HDMI cable to the PS3. Disconnect everything from the PS3 except for power and the HDMI cable to the Anthem. Using a set of headphones plugged into the Anthem, see if you can hear the ticks when playing the PS3. If not, then you have an external interference problem. Reconnect stuff to the Anthem a little at a time to see when the problem reappears.


If you hear ticks in this minimal setup, then the next step is to take the PS3, the Anthem and the headphones to an entirely different location -- preferably a different building, but at least a different room and power circuit -- and see if that makes the ticking go away. If the ticking goes away then, again, you have an external interference problem -- some sort of EMI/RF interference is getting through the shielding of the PS3 and Anthem and into the signal path.


EMI/RF interference can come from appliances, even in a different room of the house, from dimmer switches, from halogen lamps, and can even come in on a cable or satellite TV feed line kind of like a ground loop.

--Bob


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I didn't find any other parameters that I thought
> 
> might effect your problem.
> 
> 
> I assume you are using IR versus RF?
> 
> 
> I assume the Anthem remote works.
> 
> 
> If Anthem works - I would suspect the Pronto.




I have come to a workable solution.


I learned the navigation codes from my Anthem remote. I noticed the codes were different from the codes provided by Randman (which are the codes from the Anthem CCF). I don't know why but the learned codes cause the cursor to jump two or three position where the codes provided by RandMan (which match the codes from the Anthem CCF) produce no response. Using my learned codes I played with the duration until I found a duration which worked 75% of the time. I settled on .32 seconds and now it is usable, not perfect but usable. I can now put my Anthem remote in my drawer.


Thank you drhankz, Randman, and Bob for you suggestions. I would have never come to a workable solutions without the contributions of my fellow brothers in Anthem.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I learned the navigation codes from my Anthem remote. .



I thought one of your posts said you TRIED that with no luck.


I always use the learn code feature versus trying someone

else's CCF files. I have more consistent luck that way.


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought one of your posts said you TRIED that with no luck.
> 
> 
> I always use the learn code feature versus trying someone
> 
> else's CCF files. I have more consistent luck that way.



I did try the learned codes previously and did not have luck with the first attempt. I went through the learning process again this time with the focus on finding the right duration based on comments from others.


I am shocked the CCF from Anthem didn't work.


----------



## jayray

I would like to take this opportunity to thank :

Levesque

Bob Pariseau

Filmmixer

Rob Tomlin

NineBall


for helping me settle on my A5 and AVM 50. I have now completed the bulk of the setup and I am stunned by the level of quality of the sound, which I expected but also the video, which I didn't expect. I don't want to come out of the basement, but would like to take all of my dvd collection and hear them again

















I am in HT heaven and the support on this thread has allowed me to take advantage of this new equipment and be confident that if I couldn't understand something, someone here would help me figure it out.


thanks again,

John


ps. got pink screen with ps3 hdmi but changed to RGB and it was gone. Thanks Bob


----------



## slots1

You guys are great. I spoke to John in private emails.

I will get my D2, A5 and A2 next week. So looking forward to the experience that John has had with the equipment and all of you.


Thanks for all the posts. I go on at least twice a day.

gerry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did try the learned codes previously and did not have luck with the first attempt. I went through the learning process again this time with the focus on finding the right duration based on comments from others.
> 
> 
> I am shocked the CCF from Anthem didn't work.



As I recall, the CCF file Anthem has on their site is for a particular version of the remote. There's some way to identify which version you have from the button configuration. I suppose it is possible that you have the wrong version of remote for that CCF file.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am in HT heaven and the support on this thread has allowed me to take advantage of this new equipment and be confident that if I couldn't understand something, someone here would help me figure it out.
> 
> 
> thanks again,
> 
> John



I suspect that means you'll also now need to set aside suitable display space for some of these:







































--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We just became the 5th most viewed thread on this forum with over 221,000 views, and of course we are in 1st by a large margin for post counts. Pretty amazing for such an esoteric product. [Obviously we all need to spend more time watching TV or listening to music and less time on the computer.]


But 4th place is still 10,000 more views ahead of us, so that will likely take a while to catch up to....

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I suspect that means you'll also now need to set aside suitable display space for some of these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Having had the opportunity to peer over Johns shoulder in his HT I can say that he has accomplished a great deal integrating the new technology into his environment. Not unlike many of us Bob, I noted that his reference docs beside his throne had your name on them. John was able to demo some amazing stereo with a brief consult on the Pariseau methodology for getting stereo out of the Anthem.


John, I complement you on your achievement and Bob I am in constant awe of how much your patience and wisdom have helped us all find the next level of enjoyment for this obsession.


I might add that the U571 soundtrack continues to be a guiding light for most of us in assessing the effectiveness of our subs. Well done Mark.........I'm still looking forward to the responses to my questions.


Peter


----------



## Joe C5

3no - I just played the first 4 chapters of Bond on my PS3 through the D2 running the uncompressed LPCM (5.1 Ch 48 KHz 4.8 Mbps). No clicks, pops, or any other anomalies. Sounds like you may have to employ some of Bob's suggestions in tracking down the culprit. I wish you luck in finding it, and let me know if I can be of service (testing stuff since we have a similar configuration). I am running 1.12s on the D2 and 1.82 on the PS3.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I just upgraded the FW on my Toshiba XA2 to version 2.0 and have no issues with the 1.12s software on my AVM-50.


FYI.



Regards,


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am stunned by the level of quality of the sound


----------



## jayray

Bob,


So where are my dancing Anthem guys?


----------



## jayray

Joe C5,

any problems with the BTB with the 1.82. On the bluray thread for hardware there have some comments about this. I have 1.8 and am afraid to undo the present great picture.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> So where are my dancing Anthem guys?



Just glance up a few posts. Both DRHANKZ and I sent some your way.

--Bob


----------



## drdisc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Having had the opportunity to peer over Johns shoulder in his HT I can say that he has accomplished a great deal integrating the new technology into his environment. Not unlike many of us Bob, I noted that his reference docs beside his throne had your name on them. John was able to demo some amazing stereo with a brief consult on the Pariseau methodology for getting stereo out of the Anthem.
> 
> 
> John, I complement you on your achievement and Bob I am in constant awe of how much your patience and wisdom have helped us all find the next level of enjoyment for this obsession.
> 
> 
> I might add that the U571 soundtrack continues to be a guiding light for most of us in assessing the effectiveness of our subs. Well done Mark.........I'm still looking forward to the responses to my questions.
> 
> 
> Peter



Peter:


I cannot agree with you more regarding Bob P's logical, insightful and THOROUGH attention to almost EVERY issue or problem that is brought up in the forum.


Being a noob and (mostly) a lurker I myself have a text file of posts and tips from this forum that apply directly to my set-up that is almost 30 pages long! And we are talking a small font size here, single-spaced! And the majority of that text has been posted by Bob P. Thanks, thanks, thanks Bob!










Also: Peter, I was PM'ed calibrator Michael TLV's email address and I am going to arrange a calibration session for this fall when he is in the area. PM me if you would like his contact info.


As my knowledge (and confidence) level increases re: this technology I hope to become a more active participant in the discussions but for now I am content to absorb what I can like a big sponge!!!


Mark


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Joe C5,
> 
> any problems with the BTB with the 1.82. On the bluray thread for hardware there have some comments about this. I have 1.8 and am afraid to undo the present great picture.
> 
> 
> John



I don't know yet. The picture is excellent, but I have not had time to verify this. Besides, I only play Blu-Ray on the PS3 and Pioneer, HD-DVD's on the Toshiba and DVD's on the OPPO. I prefer to save the drive life on my expensive players for the HD stuff







. I don't think there is any way to calibrate the Blu-Ray path (other than sticking in a DVD) - in other words, no blu-ray calibration disk (correct?). Not that the DVD method would not work, I'm just not certain it would (who knows what their scaling software does).


Ok the 7669 thing works on the Sony titles on the PS3 but it looks the same as on the Pioneer. Does it have a BTB bar on the first color bar chart?


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I suppose it's possible that Oppo has finally put in the stuff to handle this automatically, but I'm surprised.
> 
> 
> What does Video Source Adjust / Info say you are receiving as video input resolution from the Oppo when you are playing these?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I have done a little more digging into the situation. With the Oppo set at 480i, the DVD-Audio disc comes in at 6-channel 48 kHz. If I change the Oppo to 720p, it comes in at 6-channel 96 kHz. The SACD comes in at 6-channel 88.2 kHz on either video setting. I guess that is because the Oppo is converting the DSD to PCM before sending the signal out to the D2. Maybe that makes sense now afterall.


By the way, the audio quality is tremendous. I replaced an AVM20 with the D2 and I am very pleased. I'm even thinking about upgrading the AVM20 to the equivalent of the AVM50.


I've been calibrating the video side today. I've completed the DVD input, but I'm not sure how to do the other inputs. How do you get a test signal on the HD cable input?


Buddy


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't know yet. The picture is excellent, but I have not had time to verify this. Besides, I only play Blu-Ray on the PS3 and Pioneer, HD-DVD's on the Toshiba and DVD's on the OPPO. I prefer to save the drive life on my expensive players for the HD stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I don't think there is any way to calibrate the Blu-Ray path (other than sticking in a DVD) - in other words, no blu-ray calibration disk (correct?). Not that the DVD method would not work, I'm just not certain it would (who knows what their scaling software does).
> 
> 
> Ok the 7669 thing works on the Sony titles on the PS3 but it looks the same as on the Pioneer. Does it have a BTB bar on the first color bar chart?



I have been told by someone in this forum







that if you run your players through the D2/AVM50, one calibration can be done using the Gennum for all these players out to your display. It seem that would suggest the ps3 can be calibrated.

On my display, which is calibrated, for hd dvd, the ps3 also looked excellent and very close to my hd dvd setting. So calibrating one may be close to the other. Just my observations


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I have done a little more digging into the situation. With the Oppo set at 480i, the DVD-Audio disc comes in at 6-channel 48 kHz. If I change the Oppo to 720p, it comes in at 6-channel 96 kHz. The SACD comes in at 6-channel 88.2 kHz on either video setting. I guess that is because the Oppo is converting the DSD to PCM before sending the signal out to the D2. Maybe that makes sense now afterall.
> 
> 
> By the way, the audio quality is tremendous. I replaced an AVM20 with the D2 and I am very pleased. I'm even thinking about upgrading the AVM20 to the equivalent of the AVM50.
> 
> 
> I've been calibrating the video side today. I've completed the DVD input, but I'm not sure how to do the other inputs. How do you get a test signal on the HD cable input?
> 
> 
> Buddy



A professional calibrator (an ISF tech) would bring a signal generator that sends test patterns through your cable TV receiver box through the Anthem and then to the TV.


Since you don't have that, what you need to do is to look for test pattern programs that are periodically broadcast on some channels. If you have an HD-DVR you can record those for later use. Both HD-NET and IN-HD have brief test pattern programs they broadcast early in the mornings about once every two weeks. The IN-HD version is called "Tune Up".


There is also another brief program called "Bars and Tones" which can usually be found periodically on both HDTV and SDTV channels. Record both the HDTV and SDTV version if you find it. With these, you can verify the basic levels for TV sources.


Again, you do your primary level settings (on your TV) using the Anthem's internally generated test patterns, and then you refine for each source using the Anthem's own input level settings. See the "Video calibration for non-ISF techs" post linked in the first post of this thread.


Avia is also supposed to be selling an HD-DVD and a Blu-Ray calibration DVD later this summer.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I have done a little more digging into the situation. With the Oppo set at 480i, the DVD-Audio disc comes in at 6-channel 48 kHz. If I change the Oppo to 720p, it comes in at 6-channel 96 kHz. The SACD comes in at 6-channel 88.2 kHz on either video setting. I guess that is because the Oppo is converting the DSD to PCM before sending the signal out to the D2. Maybe that makes sense now afterall.



This makes more sense (maybe).


It is possible for an HDMI source to automatically change output resolution to something higher if you are playing such audio. But nobody does that yet.


It is also possible for an HDMI source to send this audio even on 480i output by a process called pixel replication (which artificially raises the video bandwidth by sending each pixel multiple times). It's part of the HDMI spec, but nobody does it for these high end audio formats, and I'm not even sure if the Anthem would do the right thing with it if it received it.

---Bob


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A professional calibrator (an ISF tech) would bring a signal generator that sends test patterns through your cable TV receiver box through the Anthem and then to the TV.
> 
> 
> Since you don't have that, what you need to do is to look for test pattern programs that are periodically broadcast on some channels. If you have an HD-DVR you can record those for later use. Both HD-NET and IN-HD have brief test pattern programs they broadcast early in the mornings about once every two weeks. The IN-HD version is called "Tune Up".
> 
> 
> There is also another brief program called "Bars and Tones" which can usually be found periodically on both HDTV and SDTV channels. Record both the HDTV and SDTV version if you find it. With these, you can verify the basic levels for TV sources.
> 
> 
> Again, you do your primary level settings (on your TV) using the Anthem's internally generated test patterns, and then you refine for each source using the Anthem's own input level settings. See the "Video calibration for non-ISF techs" post linked in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> Avia is also supposed to be selling an HD-DVD and a Blu-Ray calibration DVD later this summer.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks for all of your help on getting my D2 setup. I've been reading your responses here for some time now and have been reviewing your "Video calibration for non-ISF techs". I was just not clear on the cable test patterns. My cable company broadcasts HD-NET, so I'll look for the time that they are showing the test patterns. I don't currently have a way to record them.


Now how about sending me some of the mascots so that I'll feel like a member of the club?


Buddy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for all of your help on getting my D2 setup. I've been reading your responses here for some time now and have been reviewing your "Video calibration for non-ISF techs". I was just not clear on the cable test patterns. My cable company broadcasts HD-NET, so I'll look for the time that they are showing the test patterns. I don't currently have a way to record them.
> 
> 
> Now how about sending me some of the mascots so that I'll feel like a member of the club?
> 
> 
> Buddy



As I recall HD-NET likes to send out its test pattern progam (about 15 minutes long) very early on Tuesday mornings about once every 2 weeks -- somewhere between 5AM and 8AM Eastern time. Obviously it is easier to take advantage of this is you have an HD-DVR that you can use to record it.


If you follow the advice in that calibration post, the adjusments you might need to make for your cable TV input should be quite minor, particularly if it is an HDMI input.


Oh and yes, a bunch of these just showed up with your name on them:







































--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Now how about sending me some of the mascots so that I'll feel like a member of the club?
> 
> 
> Buddy



Some of these *WILD CRITTERS* with your name on it showed up here also.


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Some of these *WILD CRITTERS* with your name on it showed up here also.



What kind of pen do you keep all those guys in?


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As I recall HD-NET likes to send out its test pattern progam (about 15 minutes long) very early on Tuesday mornings about once every 2 weeks -- somewhere between 5AM and 8AM Eastern time. Obviously it is easier to take advantage of this is you have an HD-DVR that you can use to record it.
> 
> 
> If you follow the advice in that calibration post, the adjusments you might need to make for your cable TV input should be quite minor, particularly if it is an HDMI input.
> 
> 
> Oh and yes, a bunch of these just showed up with your name on them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I just looked up the HD-NET schedule and it looks like the test patterns come on Saturday mornings at 6:30 am eastern.


Buddy


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drdisc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Peter:
> 
> 
> I cannot agree with you more regarding Bob P's logical, insightful and THOROUGH attention to almost EVERY issue or problem that is brought up in the forum.
> 
> 
> Being a noob and (mostly) a lurker I myself have a text file of posts and tips from this forum that apply directly to my set-up that is almost 30 pages long! And we are talking a small font size here, single-spaced! And the majority of that text has been posted by Bob P. Thanks, thanks, thanks Bob!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also: Peter, I was PM'ed calibrator Michael TLV's email address and I am going to arrange a calibration session for this fall when he is in the area. PM me if you would like his contact info.
> 
> 
> As my knowledge (and confidence) level increases re: this technology I hope to become a more active participant in the discussions but for now I am content to absorb what I can like a big sponge!!!
> 
> 
> Mark



I too plan on doing a calibration and I am going to check on my window of availability for Michael's visit....I talked about it with John today and I think I am going to try and arrange a getogether for the three of us as we are so close together within the next month. Sort of a support group for our Anthem addiction. I'm thinking that we might link up at my place right after the release of the final 1.12 production release which I'm sure is going to happen reeeely reeeely soon! I have a portable thinkpad that I have set up just for this purpose with the rs232 cable tested and proven. Hence we can do it here and you can take the thinkpad and cable and redo the same process again and again...........no Stephen King nightmares here!


Peter


ps any other Anthem lurkers in the Hamilton/Oakville/Mississauga area who want's in.....??????



Peter


----------



## drdisc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I too plan on doing a calibration and I am going to check on my window of availability for Michael's visit....I talked about it with John today and I think I am going to try and arrange a getogether for the three of us as we are so close together within the next month. Sort of a support group for our Anthem addiction. I'm thinking that we might link up at my place right after the release of the final 1.12 production release which I'm sure is going to happen reeeely reeeely soon! I have a portable thinkpad that I have set up just for this purpose with the rs232 cable tested and proven. Hence we can do it here and you can take the thinkpad and cable and redo the same process again and again...........no Stephen King nightmares here!
> 
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> ps any other Anthem lurkers in the Hamilton/Oakville/Mississauga area who want's in.....??????
> 
> 
> 
> Peter



Peter:


I would be honoured to be a part of your 'Anthem Support Group'!










Just let me know where and when and I'll be there. (Hopefully the official release of 1.12 will not be too long in coming . . . )


Lastly, Marc / Film Mixer must be busy on the Reiner film as we haven't heard from him in awhile!


Mark


----------



## gdc

I just talked to an Anthem/Paradigm rep last week and it looks like the room correction for D2 is out about 60 days. Otherwise, all the same details are confirmed - purchase a calibrated mic, take measurements at 9 points, store your correction data. A laptop is apparently required.


This and the new firmware = good times







.


----------



## jayray

A couple of quick questions.


1. Now that I have hdmi out with my ps3, I assume that I should now change settings so that hdmi is my preferred output and all other devices hooked up with component and s-video will output through the hdmi so no need for a component cable. Does this sound right.


2. For XA2, if I go hdmi, sound will output through this and I don't have to use 6 channel analog. If this is correct, should I disable all bass management in the XA2, and let the Anthem do it?


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A couple of quick questions.
> 
> 
> 1. Now that I have hdmi out with my ps3, I assume that I should now change settings so that hdmi is my preferred output and all other devices hooked up with component and s-video will output through the hdmi so no need for a component cable. Does this sound right.
> 
> 
> 2. For XA2, if I go hdmi, sound will output through this and I don't have to use 6 channel analog. If this is correct, should I disable all bass management in the XA2, and let the Anthem do it?
> 
> 
> John



(1) Yes. You might want to still leave Component input cables attached to the Anthem in case you ever want to send Component output to a Zone 2 display.


(2) Definitely. This is an important step.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

thanks Bob.


John


----------



## kal

Silly question for today:


Is it possible to feed the D2 a 480i signal from a BluRay player (ex: PS3) when playing SD discs but have the player output 1080i/p when playing BluRay discs? (All over HDMI of course).


The D2 has such good upscaling capabilities compare to most BD/HD-DVD players so I'd want to use the upscaling features in the D2 instead of those in the say, the PS3.


I don't see how one would do this with the PS3 (from what I can tell), so wondering what everyone else is doing.


Kal


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't believe any of the current crop of Blu-Ray or HD-DVD players can be set to switch output resolutions automatically for you. You need to change it manually.


This is certainly something they should add.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't believe any of the current crop of Blu-Ray or HD-DVD players can be set to switch output resolutions automatically for you. You need to change it manually.
> 
> 
> This is certainly something they should add.
> 
> --Bob



The Pioneer Blu-Ray players SWITCH automatically in DIRECT mode.


----------



## kal

Thanks guys. I have a PS3 (for BluRay). I think I may just use a different player for SD-DVD's to make things simpler (and feed the D2 at 480i).


Kal


----------



## jayray

Holding the start button on the ps3 for 5-10 sec. will reset it to 480i. Then presumably you can let the anthem do the upscaling. I was thinking of trying this but haven't had time.


John


----------



## yourlilbro

Does anyone have anymore photos of movies upconverted by the D2? I mean through a 480i input and let the Anthem do the scaling. I haven't got a chance to see yet, Ive been watching SD through 480p component upscaled by the D2 nd it looks great, but my Oppo 970 hasn't arrived yet so I don't know how good it actually is. I've seen an Esoteric DV-60 in action on my Projector at the showroom and that was the shiznit. Will the D2 take the 480i signal and make it as good or close to the Esoteric's performance?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Pioneer Blu-Ray players SWITCH automatically in DIRECT mode.



That's interesting. Can you specify the two different resolutions you want it to switch between -- i.e., 1080p/60 vs. 1080p/24 for Blu-Ray and also 480i vs. 480p for standard DVDs?

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just talked to an Anthem/Paradigm rep last week and it looks like the room correction for D2 is out about 60 days. Otherwise, all the same details are confirmed - purchase a calibrated mic, take measurements at 9 points, store your correction data. A laptop is apparently required.
> 
> 
> This and the new firmware = good times
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's interesting. Can you specify the two different resolutions you want it to switch between -- i.e., 1080p/60 vs. 1080p/24 for Blu-Ray and also 480i vs. 480p for standard DVDs?
> 
> --Bob



No.


You use "source direct" and the Pioneer will send the native resolution (whatever it is) to the display/processor. With Blu-ray, this will usually be 1080p/24. With DVD, it will 480i/60.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No.
> 
> 
> You use "source direct" and the Pioneer will send the native resolution (whatever it is) to the display/processor. With Blu-ray, this will usually be 1080p/24. With DVD, it will 480i/60.



Yep, this is a SUPER cool feature of the Pio's, one of the many reasons I love my 94HD. I don't have to think...the player outputs native format with Source Direct no matter what. The other night, Pirates 2 was on, doing of course 1080p/24 to the D2, then we threw in Legends of Jazz, and the native rate is 1080i/60, so it switched automatically to that. I used to check the D2's status menu for Video input rate all the time just to make sure the Pio was doing the right thing, but no need anymore! I'm convinced it works, time to just enjoy 


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep, this is a SUPER cool feature of the Pio's, one of the many reasons I love my 94HD. I don't have to think...the player outputs native format with Source Direct no matter what. The other night, Pirates 2 was on, doing of course 1080p/24 to the D2, then we threw in Legends of Jazz, and the native rate is 1080i/60, so it switched automatically to that. I used to check the D2's status menu for Video input rate all the time just to make sure the Pio was doing the right thing, but no need anymore! I'm convinced it works, time to just enjoy
> 
> 
> -Brian



That's prety neat! And will be even better when the Anthem gets the kinks worked out of 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion for film-based stuff (which, for whatever reason, might have been authored as 1080i/60 "native" on some disc) -- not to mention the 480i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion for standard DVDs of films.


----------------------------------------


I'll just add again here that there are a remarkable number of ways a player can screw up the apparently simple task of reading a standard DVD and generating HDMI 480i output. It is not a given that a player that does a completely proper job of handling HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs, and which can also spit out HDMI 480i for standard DVD discs, must necessarily then be handling the standard DVDs correctly.


It is also not a given that a player which is known to output standard DVDs completely correctly when scaled up to 1080i or 1080p must also be doing 480i correctly.


One of my tests for maturity in the HD-DVD and Blu-Ray player world is when people who know how to test this stuff -- Kris Deering for example -- start reporting that a particulary player does indeed do standard DVDs at HDMI 480i without flaw. No CUE, no clipping of Blacker than Black or Peak White data, no MPEG decoder failures, etc.


All of this can be done of course, but only if the player manufacturers take the time to engineer it, which they likely won't do well until they run out of things to do on the HD-DVD or Blu-Ray playback side and are now just refining otherwise complete designs. I haven't checked Kris' reports over at Secrets of Home Theater recently but my guess would be there WILL be players that pass this type of standard DVD testing before the year is out. Blu-Ray may get screwed up with the player profile 1.1 transition, however.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Wondered about using my new usb-rs232 cable to backup settings to test if it works, rather than using it for firmware and having it fail. Would this work or is it wishfull thinking?


john


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wondered about using my new usb-rs232 cable to backup settings to test if it works, rather than using it for firmware and having it fail. Would this work or is it wishfull thinking?
> 
> 
> john



It is not wishful thinking. It is a very good idea indeed.


It is pointless to try to use the usb setup to update the firmware before you know it is working well enough for you to back up your settings.


Unfortunately, that's not a guarantee that it will ALSO work to update the firmware. The backup process reads from the Anthem. The firmware install process both reads and writes. The timing and flow control are a bit different.


But if it works well enough to backup your settings, then it is certainly worth a shot to use it to install new firmware. It will probably work OK.

--Bob


----------



## ankita

I have avm 50 , XA2 hddvd player ( HDMI) and RS1 projector. I watched around 30 hd dvd s and for all of them I had a blue screen appear for 1 sec 15-30 min into the movie, after which I dont have any problem at all. Is this a hdmi handshake issue ?. HDMI cables are from blue jeans cable. thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have avm 50 , XA2 hddvd player ( HDMI) and RS1 projector. I watched around 30 hd dvd s and for all of them I had a blue screen appear for 1 sec 15-30 min into the movie, after which I dont have any problem at all. Is this a hdmi handshake issue ?. HDMI cables are from blue jeans cable. thanks



Sounds like it to me. The XA2 has caused more than its fair share of problems.


What version of Anthem software are you running? Press the Select button on the remote once and the version number will come up in the display.


Momentary drop outs like that could also be due to the cables (1080p puts a lot of demand on the cables) or even some external event such as some appliance kicking on just at the wrong moment and causing a power glitch.


I'd discount the cables since you should be seeing problems more than once per movie if it is a cable problem. Similarly it is unlikely some external interference would happen so reliably early in each movie.


The source device periodically rechecks that copy protection is still good on the HDMI connection. If it gets the wrong answer it will do a retry, but that can cause a drop out for a second or two. Anthem's latest "test" software is more robust when dealing with the XA2.

--Bob


----------



## lalarsons

At last, the D2 arrived complete with 1.11e software. Setup was no problem and the interface with my display was completed with ease. Pristine video and audio all in one package.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's interesting. Can you specify the two different resolutions you want it to switch between -- i.e., 1080p/60 vs. 1080p/24 for Blu-Ray and also 480i vs. 480p for standard DVDs?
> 
> --Bob



NO - The DIRECT mode means it outputs ONLY the

NATIVE resolution of the DVD sources. For SD you

get 480i and Blu-Ray 1080p and some of the previews

and FBI warnings which are actually in 1080i - it

automatically switches.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> At last, the D2 arrived complete with 1.11e software. Setup was no problem and the interface with my display was completed with ease. Pristine video and audio all in one package.



You need some Anthem MASCOTS ---


----------



## jayray

Going to hdmi from component has changed my calibrated settings. Picture doesn't look as good as it did with component







However I will be getting it done in the Fall so here's hoping it will do the trick. SD looked mediocre with my LG but it can't do 480i. My panasonic RP82 which I forgot about does do it natively
















Will try to let the Anthem do its stuff. Very curious to see how this works. Sound from all sources is phenomenal. Tried the PCM from my ps3 after listening for a month to DD. What a treat to hear the PCM. The detail in movies puts a smile on my face everytime. Revisiting some of my HD collection is a lot of fun.

BTW, the hdmi connection to my XA2 through the Anthem was flawless. Had trouble doing it directly from the XA2 to my pj. Just another reason I love my Anthem.


John


----------



## dseliger

I just did the same thing on my D2 running 1.12s and watched a couple movies with XA2 v2.0 and everything is happy. They actually renamed some of the menu items to names that actually make sense (XA2)







...


Also tested the latest PS3 firmware as well with 1.12s and its running great, as usual.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I just upgraded the FW on my Toshiba XA2 to version 2.0 and have no issues with the 1.12s software on my AVM-50.
> 
> 
> FYI.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,


----------



## jayray

Anika,


I have a 50' cable, long by hdmi standards and so far connection has been fine to my pj which has DVI so I use an adapter.


john


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> NO - The DIRECT mode means it outputs ONLY the
> 
> NATIVE resolution of the DVD sources. For SD you
> 
> get 480i and Blu-Ray 1080p and some of the previews
> 
> and FBI warnings which are actually in 1080i - it
> 
> automatically switches.



Hank, I know exactly what you mean, and your statement is very close to 100% accurate, but let's be careful here. Taken literally, your statement is not totally correct.


Source Direct means that the Pio BluRay player will output whatever the native rate of the source content is, in all cases...period...full stop. You are correct that for all standard DVD's, that means 480i. But, for BluRay, it is not always 1080p for the movie content. Some BluRay content has a native rate of 1080i/60 (such as the beautiful and wonderful Legends of Jazz concert and other discs). Some other BluRay discs, many in fact, are encoded at 1080p/24 native rate, and still others are encoded at 1080p/60, or could be. Source Direct simply means that the native rate of the content is always transmitted as is, with no additional processing by the player.


You are 100% correct about the FBI warning content, and even some Menu content, previews etc. They are often encoded at a different rate than the actual movie itself, so in your and my case, we often see the input to the Anthem from the Pio change even within a single disc from maybe 1080i for some previews and FBI warning, etc., then switches mid-stream to maybe 1080p/60 for some Menu's and things, then switches ultimately to 1080p/24 for the movie itself, again depending on the disc. The often-times switching 3 or even 4 times per disc is an interesting phenomenon, but one that is reassuring I suppose that we are indeed in "Source Direct" mode!


Cheers buddy, just felt I should clarify a wee bit for some of the noo-bies.


HTH,

Brian


----------



## ankita




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sounds like it to me. The XA2 has caused more than its fair share of problems.
> 
> 
> What version of Anthem software are you running? Press the Select button on the remote once and the version number will come up in the display.
> 
> 
> Momentary drop outs like that could also be due to the cables (1080p puts a lot of demand on the cables) or even some external event such as some appliance kicking on just at the wrong moment and causing a power glitch.
> 
> 
> I'd discount the cables since you should be seeing problems more than once per movie if it is a cable problem. Similarly it is unlikely some external interference would happen so reliably early in each movie.
> 
> 
> The source device periodically rechecks that copy protection is still good on the HDMI connection. If it gets the wrong answer it will do a retry, but that can cause a drop out for a second or two. Anthem's latest "test" software is more robust when dealing with the XA2.
> 
> --Bob



I have V1.11 software for avm and 1.5 for XA2. maybe I need to upgrade my 1.5 to 2.0 on my XA2. that might solve the problem. BTW I have a 30 ft hdmi cable. I agree with Bob that it is probably a software upgrade issue than a hardware problem

ankita


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Source Direct simply means that the native rate of the content is always transmitted as is, with no additional processing by the player.



That is what I tried to say without going into

the 54-1/2







Examples you did.


Just Teasing


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have V1.11 software for avm and 1.5 for XA2. maybe I need to upgrade my 1.5 to 2.0 on my XA2. that might solve the problem. BTW I have a 30 ft hdmi cable. I agree with Bob that it is probably a software upgrade issue than a hardware problem
> 
> ankita



The V1.11e software for the Anthem is a distinct improvement for the XA2, and from all reports the V1.12 versions are even better. V1.11e is what's now shipping on new Anthem units, although they still have only the original V1.11 on the web site for download.


Call Anthem tech support if you want any of these right now, or wait a bit for the next "official" release downloadable from the web site.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Have my RP82 running at 480i and turned of progressive in menu. On AVM 50 display it says 480i. Using Video menu, press and hold 7 on remote, says in the info box, 480i in and 720p out. I assume this displays the correct info for how the upconverting has been done. Picture looked better than other upconverting player I had but still needs to be adjusted.

There is a very light pink hue to THX menu or BTB on the colour bar pattern. This is not the pink caused by incorrect colour space. Unit is set to RGB. Wonder what is causing this?


John


----------



## ASW

I have a D-2 connected to a Series 3 Tivo. My Zone 1 TV is a Panasonic TH-65PX600U. My Zone 2 set is a LG 26LX1D. The D-2 is set to scale to 1080P/60. The Tivo is connected to the D-2 via HDMI (for main zone), component in (for Zone 2) and S-video (for Zone 3). D-2 firmware is 1.12S.


On some pay stations, in Zone 2 I get a message that says "DVR cannot display HDMI, try another TV input."


If I turn on Zone 1, the display in Zone 2 seems to work OK. I don't believe Zone 2 is connected via HDMI, but instead is just passing through the component in (unless something odd is going on with the Tivo).


Any thoughts on what is going on?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Have my RP82 running at 480i and turned of progressive in menu. On AVM 50 display it says 480i. Using Video menu, press and hold 7 on remote, says in the info box, 480i in and 720p out. I assume this displays the correct info for how the upconverting has been done. Picture looked better than other upconverting player I had but still needs to be adjusted.
> 
> There is a very light pink hue to THX menu or BTB on the colour bar pattern. This is not the pink caused by incorrect colour space. Unit is set to RGB. Wonder what is causing this?
> 
> 
> John



Your pink hue sounds like color decoder problems ("red push"). If you have the Avia calibration disc, check out the color decoder test charts.


This may be inherent in the way your display is set, or you may be able to fix it by picking a better "picture mode" on the display. See the discussion in the "video calibration for non-ISF techs" post (linked in the first post of this thread) regarding the infamous display "torch modes".


Many displays are factory set with the color temperature too high (too blue) because that confuses buyers into thinking the display is brighter in the stores. Then the manufacture over-emphasizes red to try to compensate and keep flesh tones from looking too pasty and corpse-like. The result is that everything is actually off.


If you find you have severe red push, and can't find a setting to turn it off, adjust color and tint based on blue and then lower color a bit (keep tint the same) to reduce some of the red push. And consider replacing your display.


The Anthem has custom Gamma Correction controls (via the Live Video Settings Editor) that could conceivably help here, but I wouldn't recommend you start fiddling with those yet.


If you have only a minor amount of red push, this may be something that can be adjusted out of your display by a pro calibrator accessing the hidden service menus -- or via the Anthem Gamma Correction stuff -- to try to get the entire range of the gray scale to have the same, neutral colloration.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a D-2 connected to a Series 3 Tivo. My Zone 1 TV is a Panasonic TH-65PX600U. My Zone 2 set is a LG 26LX1D. The D-2 is set to scale to 1080P/60. The Tivo is connected to the D-2 via HDMI (for main zone), component in (for Zone 2) and S-video (for Zone 3). D-2 firmware is 1.12S.
> 
> 
> On some pay stations, in Zone 2 I get a message that says "DVR cannot display HDMI, try another TV input."
> 
> 
> If I turn on Zone 1, the display in Zone 2 seems to work OK. I don't believe Zone 2 is connected via HDMI, but instead is just passing through the component in (unless something odd is going on with the Tivo).
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on what is going on?



Try setting HDMI Repeater = NO in Setup / Source Setup for this input.


The pay stations are probably insisting on HDCP (copy protection) for the HDMI output. If HDMI Repeater = YES is set, and your Zone 1 TV is turned off, the Tivo can't reach the TV to verify it is HDCP compliant. HDMI Repeater = No should fix that.


However there have been some reports here that indicate the HDMI Repeater setting may be broken in the V1.12 software versions. So if setting it to NO doesn't fix the problem, contact Anthem tech support and see if they can help you.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a D-2 connected to a Series 3 Tivo. My Zone 1 TV is a Panasonic TH-65PX600U. My Zone 2 set is a LG 26LX1D. The D-2 is set to scale to 1080P/60. The Tivo is connected to the D-2 via HDMI (for main zone), component in (for Zone 2) and S-video (for Zone 3). D-2 firmware is 1.12S.
> 
> 
> On some pay stations, in Zone 2 I get a message that says "DVR cannot display HDMI, try another TV input."
> 
> 
> If I turn on Zone 1, the display in Zone 2 seems to work OK. I don't believe Zone 2 is connected via HDMI, but instead is just passing through the component in (unless something odd is going on with the Tivo).
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on what is going on?



I had to input through Component to get Zone 2 Component to work on correctly (also need digital audio hooked up) on all stations on the S3. I actually get identical picture, save an HDMI port, and get more flexibility on other zones (and I use native res picture on the S3 for best scaling results, so there is less flicker & anomalies as the res changes, e.g., menus are 720p).


----------



## seismo

Hi all,


This is my first post here but I have read and learned much on this thread .


Here is my situation: I exchanged my AVM30 for the D2 and got it last week. All I can say is that the D2 is really impressive. I would say that there is a definite improvement in the audio side and of course the video as given a new life to my old Panny 900.


I am in transition from a 720p setup towards a full 1080p installation. For the moment I am feeding the D2 with a 1080i satellite signal and I am using my Denon 5900 component out at 480i (Wich shows up as 1440x480i/59.94 on the input display).


Unfortunately, the software version that came with the D2 was V1.11. I read about a numbers of bugs that have been put aside with the newer software versions especially version 1.12s.


My question is as follows, until I am fully 1080p, would it be worthwhile for me to go ahead and upgrade the software version now or wait for the official upgrade to come out soon?


Thanks!


----------



## jayray

Bob,


The pj has been calibrated on component out only. I get the pink only with hdmi,

so I suspect I will have to have it redone when Michael TLV comes back in the fall.

It looks the worst on SD processed through hdmi but the HD stuff still looks very good but still behind what I got with component. Without the hdmi calibrations it is perhaps not fair to judge hdmi quite yet.

thanks,


John


----------



## zzzzdoc

OK. RS-1 should be arriving within the week, and cables and electronics arriving by the minute.


Does anyone have any experience using the D2 with the Samsung BDP-1200 Blu-Ray player? Any particular firmware that I need to address problems with it (I'm presently on 1.11e)?


Should I upgrade to v1.12?


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK. RS-1 should be arriving within the week, and cables and electronics arriving by the minute.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any experience using the D2 with the Samsung BDP-1200 Blu-Ray player? Any particular firmware that I need to address problems with it (I'm presently on 1.11e)?
> 
> 
> Should I upgrade to v1.12?



I own a BD-P1200 connected to my D2 via HDMI. I am running the latest firmware for my BD-P1200 and 1.11e on my D2. Once in a blu-moon (pun intended) I have a handshake issue when switching inputs from the BD-P1200 to another input and back to the BD-P1200 but that doesn't happen consistently, maybe 10% of time when I conduct that activity. For normal use, switching from one source to the BD-P1200 once, I have no issues.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> This is my first post here but I have read and learned much on this thread .
> 
> 
> Here is my situation: I exchanged my AVM30 for the D2 and got it last week. All I can say is that the D2 is really impressive. I would say that there is a definite improvement in the audio side and of course the video as given a new life to my old Panny 900.
> 
> 
> I am in transition from a 720p setup towards a full 1080p installation. For the moment I am feeding the D2 with a 1080i satellite signal and I am using my Denon 5900 component out at 480i (Wich shows up as 1440x480i/59.94 on the input display).
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, the software version that came with the D2 was V1.11. I read about a numbers of bugs that have been put aside with the newer software versions especially version 1.12s.
> 
> 
> My question is as follows, until I am fully 1080p, would it be worthwhile for me to go ahead and upgrade the software version now or wait for the official upgrade to come out soon?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



The component video from your Denon is suffering from the Component 480i input bug which was fixed in D2 software "test" version V1.11g (and later). As a workaround, you can set it's output to to Component 480p for now.


Other than that, I think you'll be fine holding off on a software upgrade until the "official" release comes out.


But if you do decide to contact Anthem for a Beta test software version, any of the V1.12 versions should do fine for you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> The pj has been calibrated on component out only. I get the pink only with hdmi,
> 
> so I suspect I will have to have it redone when Michael TLV comes back in the fall.
> 
> It looks the worst on SD processed through hdmi but the HD stuff still looks very good but still behind what I got with component. Without the hdmi calibrations it is perhaps not fair to judge hdmi quite yet.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> 
> John



John, have you done anything to adjust the basic Blacks/Whites/Colors/Sharpness levels yourself for the HDMI input? It is often the case that the "best" basic level settings for Component input and HDMI input are different.


Also, if your projector has "picture modes", you may find that they are remembered on a per-input basis. So you may not have the best picture mode selected for your HDMI input yet.


It is not hard to do this type of calibration yourself with the user accessible Brightness (black), Contrast (whites), Color & Tint (colors), and Sharpness controls. See the "video calibration for non-ISF techs" post again.


If your calibrator did any gray scale ramp adjustments (service menu adjustments) for Component video, he may also need to do those for the HDMI input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK. RS-1 should be arriving within the week, and cables and electronics arriving by the minute.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any experience using the D2 with the Samsung BDP-1200 Blu-Ray player? Any particular firmware that I need to address problems with it (I'm presently on 1.11e)?
> 
> 
> Should I upgrade to v1.12?



Either V1.11e or a V1.12 release should be fine for you. We have more people using V1.11e reporting here so I suppose that's less risky. But it looks like there are some definite improvements coming in the V1.12 versions as well.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

I found out that when I play a Dolby Digital DVD, on Prologic, I get a Bass Bug, this is on the XA2 and Denon 3910.


If I switch to a DTS track on Prologic it works fine.


I have an email into Nick, but was wondering if anyone else has had this problem? I am using 1.11g firmware.


Michael


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The component video from your Denon is suffering from the Component 480i input bug which was fixed in D2 software "test" version V1.11g (and later). As a workaround, you can set it's output to to Component 480p for now.
> 
> 
> Other than that, I think you'll be fine holding off on a software upgrade until the "official" release comes out.
> 
> 
> But if you do decide to contact Anthem for a Beta test software version, any of the V1.12 versions should do fine for you.
> 
> --Bob




Thank you Bob, I will try 480p and see what happens and in the meantime, I will see how long I can hold off untill I get a BR player (goal is for the next generation player scheduled to come out in October).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I found out that when I play a Dolby Digital DVD, on Prologic, I get a Bass Bug, this is on the XA2 and Denon 3910.
> 
> 
> If I switch to a DTS track on Prologic it works fine.
> 
> 
> I have an email into Nick, but was wondering if anyone else has had this problem? I am using 1.11g firmware.
> 
> 
> Michael



I haven't noticed any problem but may not be doing what you are doing.


For example, do you really mean Prologic (the old, obsolete audio mode) or Prologic IIx (the newer Dolby processing mode)?


Are you listening to 2.0 tracks? Are your main speakers "large" or "small"?


By Bass Bug do you mean you hear no bass, week bass, or what?


----------------------------------------------


Also keep in mind that the "temporary" audio adjustments accessible via the remote are remembered not only a per-input basis, but on a per-audio-type / per-input basis. So if you have accidentally set a bass adjustment on the PLIIx processing for DD on some input that might be what you are hearing.


You can clear all such "temporary" adjustments all at once by going to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and then:


* Save User Settings

* Reload Factory Defaults (you may need to observe the front panel display to continue)

* Restore Saved User Settings


This works because the "temporary" settings are not saved.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

thanks again. I will try it but looking at hddvd and bluray on hdmi, they seem to be looking better the more I play them. I do think it is not fair to judge given all the calibration was done on component. I will report on the change when I get it done.


John


ps. Just so you don't think I am an anti*HDMI*ite, just hooked up my SA 8300 cable box and HDNET looked fabulous


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK. RS-1 should be arriving within the week, and cables and electronics arriving by the minute.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any experience using the D2 with the Samsung BDP-1200 Blu-Ray player? Any particular firmware that I need to address problems with it (I'm presently on 1.11e)?
> 
> 
> Should I upgrade to v1.12?




Just thought I would weigh in on this one...1.11(e) is definitely the most stable I have used. I had a REALLY bad experience with 1.11(g) which has scared me off trying betas. I am using Oppo 970HD, Panasonic BD, Toshiba HD, SA HDPVR all on HDMI and all are stable and working great.


/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Strange SDTV problem from Comcast HD-DVR*


The recent experiments I was doing on cropping suddenly helped me see a problem that's been puzzling me for a while.


I use V1.11 (yes, still the original) on my D2. My Comcast HD-DVR, made by Motorola, is set to send 1080i for HDTV channels and 480i, filling the screen left to right, for SDTV channels. I have the Anthem set to Letter/Pillar Box my SDTV. The Comcast digital feed in my area is very VERY clean most of the time, and so it has been a real pleasure to watch quite a bit of SDTV -- old movies and such.


A while back Comcast pushed out new software for their Motorola HD-DVR's in my area. It is software version 74.54 and firmware version 16.35.


Ever since, I've noticed more and more cases where my SDTV viewing was not as good as I remembered. I checked the wonderful Wikipedia thread on Motorola HD-DVR boxes, without finding anything. They did point out one new bug in this version which turns out to be relevant, which is that at times, the Comcast box graphics generated for menus, program guide, etc, have incorrect stuff in the left or right edge as if the graphics are too wide, or not wide enough, or aren't cleaning up those edge strips properly when you change from graphic to graphic.


Well while checking out the cropping stuff I finally figured out what is going on. Somehow, and I've got no good explanation for it, the SDTV imagery gets displayed wider than it should be! On my 50 " display it is a couple inches wider on both the left and right sides. My D2-generated pillar boxes are still there, but they are not quite as wide as normal. It is almost like the distinction about non-square SDTV pixels has been mishandled (1.5 vs. 1.3333 aspect ratio), but I don't think that's precisely it.


In any event, the resulting imagery doesn't exactly look distorted, but the image quality is down, as if some bad scaling or rounding errors have crept in. I really can't pin it down better than that.


In addition, if you set a 16:9 crop while watching a 16:9 movie on an SDTV channel, then, when this bug is happening, you will get a modest but noticeable letter box strip top and bottom. Again, that means the Anthem is seeing the imagery as wider than normal for some reason.


It's almost as if the Comcast is scaling the imagery to 1080i and then back down to 480i while forgetting the 1.5 vs 1.3333 square pixel distinction. The type of image degradation might be explainable by two scaling passes I suppose, but I wouldn't think the Comcast hardware could actually do that.


As it turns out I can FIX this problem when it happens by switching the D2 to a different input and then back to the Comcast to force a new HDMI handshake. But the problem is NOT fixed if I switch between SDTV and HDTV channels, even though that too forces a new handshake -- which is one reason why I'm convinced this is a bug in the Comcast.


The other reason is that this too-wide SDTV bug seems to always coincide with the Comcast's menu/guide graphics having that extra garbage on the sides. And THAT'S clearly a Comcast software issue.


I've noticed no signs of this, or anything like it, during HDTV viewing from the Comcast.


----------------------------------------------------------


I mention this for two reasons. First if you happen to have this Motorola HD-DVR firmware version, the workaround of switching to a different Anthem input and back may be useful to you. It will be obvious that the "correct" image is narrower (when pillar boxed by the D2) -- particularly if you have any sort of point of reference across the bottom or top of your display to compare to the left or right side of the SDTV image. And the "correct" image should also look significantly better from an image quality point of view.


Second, if anyone has seen this with any other 480i or 480p source then it may be something that Anthem needs to deal with. We've had no reports like that yet, but it is subtle enough that it might have been missed up to now. Personally, I'm pretty sure this is a Comcast/Motorola software glitch, but I'll have to revise that if other people are seeing it with other sources.

--Bob


----------



## sfm

Bob,


I see the following symptoms (somwhat similar to what you describe) when using the 6412 set up as yours is (not sure of the firmware version I am at... typing this from, ahem..., work so I can't check) AND the Tivo S3 in native output mode:


- Switching from a 1080i/720p to 480i channel will sometimes result in a slightly wider than normal video area (smaller black bars on the left and right) and NO audio.


- Switching from a 480i to 1080i/720p channel will sometimes result in a squeezed video presentation... the 16x9 video area is squeezed and actually has black bars on the side... audio is still okay however.


This doesn't always happen... sometimes on the first channel change between HD/SD and sometimes it works for several changes between an HD/SD channel before it happens. The fix for me is, as you noted, switching the D2 input away from the affected input and then back. I believe this to a be a D2 issue... I emailed Nick on this and I believe he said they were aware of the problem.


EDIT: I forgot to mention I see this with either 1.11e or the latest 1.12 beta (s?) installed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

sfm,

Yes the second problem (squeezed HDTV) has been a long standing problem with the Comcast boxes. Essentially you are getting two sets of pillar boxes. I was unaware the Tivo S3 might do that as well.


My Comcast box is a 3412. Basically the same as yours except no analog cable section (it's used in areas where Comcast has gone all digital).

--Bob


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK. RS-1 should be arriving within the week, and cables and electronics arriving by the minute.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any experience using the D2 with the Samsung BDP-1200 Blu-Ray player? Any particular firmware that I need to address problems with it (I'm presently on 1.11e)?
> 
> 
> Should I upgrade to v1.12?



I've tried a couple of the 1.12 beta firmwares (q and s I believe) and have since gone back to 1.11e. With 1.12X the following two problems were introduced:


- on startup, I would sometimes get no audio or video (all my connections are end-to-end HDMI) from the D2. The only thing that would fix it would be to power cycle the D2 (and sometimes that took a couple of tries to finally get audio/video). With 1.11e, I've never had a startup issue... regardless of what order I turn things on.


- the JVC 5U D-VHS deck no longer syncs at 1080i with the D2. I will get a continuous loop of: a few seconds of proper picture, a few seconds of blue screen and then a few seconds of an error message from the JVC saying that output is disabled as it is communicating with a non compliant HDCP device. This sequence will go on forever if I let it. With 1.11e, the JVC works just peachy.


I would stick with 1.11e unless you encounter some problems.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is certainly bizarre.
> 
> 
> The first thing to do is to eliminate any possible external interference source, as well as the signal path in the Anthem that transfers HDMI PCM to the rest of the audio system. The way to do that is to try a different HDMI PCM source device.
> 
> 
> The simplest would be any HDMI CD player -- an Oppo 970 for example, but it could be whatever your Anthem dealer can loan you to try at home. HDMI CD playback is 2-channel PCM. [Optical audio cable playback of CDs is also 2-channel PCM, and it would be useful to know if the ticks also appear when hooked up that way, but let's stick to HDMI for now to cut down the number of variables.]
> 
> 
> So play a music CD on the PS3 and see if you still get the ticks when the Anthem is receiving that 2 channel HDMI PCM. Then play the same CD on the different HDMI CD player -- keeping the rest of the setup as close to identical as possible (same location, same power source, same HDMI cable to the Anthem) and see if the ticks go away.
> 
> 
> If you can't get ticks when the PS3 is playing CDs, that implies an issue with the multi-channel PCM path (as opposed to 2-channel PCM) and we can try some experiments there. For example does the presence of ticks depend on the video output resolution from the PS3?
> 
> 
> If you get ticks from both the PS3 *AND* the different CD player, that implies either some external interference source, or a broken PCM data path from the HDMI receiver of the Anthem to the rest of the Anthem audio circuitry and we can try some experiments there. For example, take your PS3 and Anthem to the dealer (along with the different CD player) and see if ticks appear on your Anthem hooked up in his shop, and then on a DIFFERENT Anthem hooked up in his shop. To confirm, also try the different CD player. No ticks either way means an external interference source in your house. Ticks on your Anthem but not on the different Anthem in his shop means your Anthem is broken. Ticks on BOTH Anthems in his shop will be the nastiest situation, since that implies a processing bug in the Anthems.
> 
> 
> But if you get ticks from the PS3 and no ticks from the different CD player in your home setup, that implies the PS3 is broken (or there is an error in your setup of the PS3). To confirm this you would need to (1) try your PS3 with a different HDMI receiver to see if the ticks are still there, and (2) try a new PS3 with your Anthem to see if the ticks go away.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I don't have the Serial tool Nick is offering, and I don't know what the EX_Rename command string might be.
> 
> --Bob



Bob-


Thanks for your extensive thoughts on diagnosis - always welcome.


I finally received the serial utility from Nick thru my dealer, but sending the serial command (s2c1fffd6f002a) to the D2 made no difference.


Tried some of your suggestions and learned the following, plus other random observations:

- no noise playing a CD on the PS3, even though PCM

- on multichannel PCM the noise is only present on the center and surround channels - never on the main L/R channels (so of course it wouldn't show on a 2 channel redbook CD)

- I thought maybe since it only shows on surrounds it was an artifact of the 5.1 -> 7.1 surround processing in the D2, but changing the surround mode (Pro Logix IIx M to none, etc.) makes no difference. And the selected audio track on the source disc is PCM so it isn't the decoding in the PS3).

- changing the video resolution (1080p, 1080i, 720p) makes no difference

- the noise is much more pronounced on some BD source material than others

- noise is absent during low level audio passages (e.g. dialog, silence)

- sometimes the noise is very pronounced, other times barely noticeable when playing the exact same source material. This changes over time, maybe more at first when cool but I haven't experimented enough to verify the latter.

- no noise from my HD-A1 via HDMI set for PCM (but the A1 is HDMI 1.1 and it's been suggested that this problem is related to 1.3)


I've sent this info to Nick and we'll see what he says tomorrow (as July 4 is nothing special up north).


Still open to further diagnostic experimentation...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob-
> 
> 
> Thanks for your extensive thoughts on diagnosis - always welcome.
> 
> 
> I finally received the serial utility from Nick thru my dealer, but sending the serial command (s2c1fffd6f002a) to the D2 made no difference.
> 
> 
> Tried some of your suggestions and learned the following, plus other random observations:
> 
> - no noise playing a CD on the PS3, even though PCM
> 
> - on multichannel PCM the noise is only present on the center and surround channels - never on the main L/R channels (so of course it wouldn't show on a 2 channel redbook CD)
> 
> - I thought maybe since it only shows on surrounds it was an artifact of the 5.1 -> 7.1 surround processing in the D2, but changing the surround mode (Pro Logix IIx M to none, etc.) makes no difference. And the selected audio track on the source disc is PCM so it isn't the decoding in the PS3).
> 
> - changing the video resolution (1080p, 1080i, 720p) makes no difference
> 
> - the noise is much more pronounced on some BD source material than others
> 
> - noise is absent during low level audio passages (e.g. dialog, silence)
> 
> - sometimes the noise is very pronounced, other times barely noticeable when playing the exact same source material. This changes over time, maybe more at first when cool but I haven't experimented enough to verify the latter.
> 
> - no noise from my HD-A1 via HDMI set for PCM (but the A1 is HDMI 1.1 and it's been suggested that this problem is related to 1.3)
> 
> 
> I've sent this info to Nick and we'll see what he says tomorrow (as July 4 is nothing special up north).
> 
> 
> Still open to further diagnostic experimentation...



The fact that you aren't hearing it with the A1 implies the problem is not in the data path from the D2's HDMI decoder to the rest of the digital audio circuitry, and also that there is not an external interference source affecting anything on the D2's side of the PS3's HDMI output socket, including the cable. The HDMI decoder in the D2 could still be at fault (triggered by HDMI V1.3 in the PS3).


The PCM has to be stitched back together from the separate chunks of it that arrive over the HDMI. If there's an error in that process then you can get a bit of wrong data at the join. But you would expect that to happen more frequently.


It is also still possible that interference is getting into the PS3 itself.


We have to take it at face value that other PS3/D2 users are not experiencing this. So most likely there is either an environmental problem (external interference) at your location, or your PS3 is broken, or your Anthem is broken. I mean broken as opposed to a software issue.


It is definitely a nuisance that you aren't getting it on the main L/R channels since that makes it hard to test with headphones.


If you have a portable powered speaker, like a computer speaker, it might make sense to try plugging that into the Center speaker output to see if you can pick up the ticking that way. If so, then your minimal setup would be the PS3, the D2, and that powered speaker.


It would still be useful to take the minimal setup to a different location (and different power circuit) to see if the ticking continues. That would eliminate any external interference that might be getting into the PS3.


The next thing I'd really like to find out is if your PS3 produces ticking on a different Anthem, and if a different PS3 produces ticking on your Anthem. The first test could probably be done by taking the PS3 and powered speaker to your dealer. The second test would involve borrowing somebody's PS3.


Off hand I can't think of a way you could have a software problem that is causing this and NOT causing similar problems for other PS3/Anthem users.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

To power rear speakers is it possible to use my Denon 3803 as the amp for them? I would rather not spend the money to purchase an A2 to complement my A5 if I don't have to. I know there are not many if any HD soundtracks with 7.1 channels but for some SD dvds, we know there are. If it is possible what does the denon have to have on the back for this to work? ie. preamp in?


John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've tried a couple of the 1.12 beta firmwares (q and s I believe) and have since gone back to 1.11e. With 1.12X the following two problems were introduced:
> 
> 
> - on startup, I would sometimes get no audio or video (all my connections are end-to-end HDMI) from the D2. The only thing that would fix it would be to power cycle the D2 (and sometimes that took a couple of tries to finally get audio/video). With 1.11e, I've never had a startup issue... regardless of what order I turn things on.
> 
> 
> - the JVC 5U D-VHS deck no longer syncs at 1080i with the D2. I will get a continuous loop of: a few seconds of proper picture, a few seconds of blue screen and then a few seconds of an error message from the JVC saying that output is disabled as it is communicating with a non compliant HDCP device. This sequence will go on forever if I let it. With 1.11e, the JVC works just peachy.
> 
> 
> I would stick with 1.11e unless you encounter some problems.



I was about to ask where to get these firmware versions because I emailed Anthem but haven't heard from them yet. Emailed them last week. However, I have 1.11e and will stick with it until the official release which is on the horizon since I don't have any issues(touch wood)

John


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The fact that you aren't hearing it with the A1 implies the problem is not in the data path from the D2's HDMI decoder to the rest of the digital audio circuitry, and also that there is not an external interference source affecting anything on the D2's side of the PS3's HDMI output socket, including the cable. The HDMI decoder in the D2 could still be at fault (triggered by HDMI V1.3 in the PS3).
> 
> 
> The PCM has to be stitched back together from the separate chunks of it that arrive over the HDMI. If there's an error in that process then you can get a bit of wrong data at the join. But you would expect that to happen more frequently.
> 
> 
> It is also still possible that interference is getting into the PS3 itself.
> 
> 
> We have to take it at face value that other PS3/D2 users are not experiencing this. So most likely there is either an environmental problem (external interference) at your location, or your PS3 is broken, or your Anthem is broken. I mean broken as opposed to a software issue.
> 
> 
> It is definitely a nuisance that you aren't getting it on the main L/R channels since that makes it hard to test with headphones.
> 
> 
> If you have a portable powered speaker, like a computer speaker, it might make sense to try plugging that into the Center speaker output to see if you can pick up the ticking that way. If so, then your minimal setup would be the PS3, the D2, and that powered speaker.
> 
> 
> It would still be useful to take the minimal setup to a different location (and different power circuit) to see if the ticking continues. That would eliminate any external interference that might be getting into the PS3.
> 
> 
> The next thing I'd really like to find out is if your PS3 produces ticking on a different Anthem, and if a different PS3 produces ticking on your Anthem. The first test could probably be done by taking the PS3 and powered speaker to your dealer. The second test would involve borrowing somebody's PS3.
> 
> 
> Off hand I can't think of a way you could have a software problem that is causing this and NOT causing similar problems for other PS3/Anthem users.
> 
> --Bob



At least one other poster has reported same (see post 5499 ) and that he knows one other person with the same issue (post 5518 ). But it certainly isn't widespread as there must be many who have the PS3/D2 combination, but very few reports.


It turns out the ticks can be heard on headphones, so the D2 must downmix the 5.1 PCM input to 2.0 for the phones output. So I will make the isolation test, and bring it to my dealer (literally 5 minutes away) and connect it to his D2.


Also, FWIW, I can hear the ticks on the PS3's power-up splash screen sound, even without a BD inserted.


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> At least one other poster has reported same (see post 5499 ) and that he knows one other person with the same issue (post 5518 ). But it certainly isn't widespread as there must be many who have the PS3/D2 combination, but very few reports.
> 
> 
> It turns out the ticks can be heard on headphones, so the D2 must downmix the 5.1 PCM input to 2.0 for the phones output. So I will make the isolation test, and bring it to my dealer (literally 5 minutes away) and connect it to his D2.
> 
> 
> Also, FWIW, I can hear the ticks on the PS3's power-up splash screen sound, even without a BD inserted.




I have all of the same issues with "clicking" through the speakers. It comes and goes as it pleases though....


Jeremy


----------



## jsegrich

Im about to get the D2 I think (possibly the AVM50), do I need to get a power conditioner like APC or something for it for surges, battery backup etc...... or is a monster power thingy ($200) a good solution.


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsegrich* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Im about to get the D2 I think (possibly the AVM50), do I need to get a power conditioner like APC or something for it for surges, battery backup etc...... or is a monster power thingy ($200) a good solution.



I am considering doing the same. I would like to see the response you receive.


----------



## PSU Lion

Hi All,


First post ever...very exciting! First, this is an awesome thread...I've been following along for weeks.


I'm having a little problem w/ my D2 (running v1.12q). I'm attempting to set up separate video settings for watching HD DVDs through my XBOX360 (on DVD2) and Blu-Ray through my PS3 (on DVD3)...DVD1 is plan vanilla DVDs through my Denon 2910.


But, when I adjust a video setting on any input (it doesn't have to be the "DVD" ones) it also gets changed for all of the other inputs. I did not have this issue when I was using V1.11 out of the box. Just curious, but has anyone else seen this?


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have all of the same issues with "clicking" through the speakers. It comes and goes as it pleases though....
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Jeremy, is it also the PS3 as source in your case?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsegrich* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Im about to get the D2 I think (possibly the AVM50), do I need to get a power conditioner like APC or something for it for surges, battery backup etc...... or is a monster power thingy ($200) a good solution.



I have my D2 and HD-DVR (and other sources just because I can) on an APC battery backup, which also serves as a surge protector. I do this not so much for power conditioning as because I'd rather not wait for either of them to reboot if there's a power glitch while I'm watching something. I have my display on its own surge protector.


I'm not a big believer in power "conditioning" systems. But a proper surge protector is good insurance and a battery backup can be a nice convenience.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PSU Lion* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> First post ever...very exciting! First, this is an awesome thread...I've been following along for weeks.
> 
> 
> I'm having a little problem w/ my D2 (running v1.12q). I'm attempting to set up separate video settings for watching HD DVDs through my XBOX360 (on DVD2) and Blu-Ray through my PS3 (on DVD3)...DVD1 is plan vanilla DVDs through my Denon 2910.
> 
> 
> But, when I adjust a video setting on any input (it doesn't have to be the "DVD" ones) it also gets changed for all of the other inputs. I did not have this issue when I was using V1.11 out of the box. Just curious, but has anyone else seen this?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I presume by "video setting" here you mean the Video Adjust Menu stuff -- i.e., under the "7" key on the remote.


If so, what you are reporting would be a significant bug. We haven't had it reported here before.


You should contact Anthem tech support. They may have already fixed it in the V1.12s version that a number of folks are on here.


EDIT: Oh and welcome! I hope you don't find these premature:























--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsegrich* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Im about to get the D2 I think (possibly the AVM50), do I need to get a power conditioner like APC or something for it for surges, battery backup etc...... or is a monster power thingy ($200) a good solution.



I use the Shunyata Hydra models in my system, and like them VERY much. They are a little pricey, but worth it for piece of mind in my opinion. I use their power cables for several pieces in my system also. Incidentally, I have a Hydra 4 over by my TV, for the TV, XBox, HDMI extender, etc. and I can honestly say that the picture on my Qualia was noticeably better with the Shunyata in place versus without it. The black level in particular was much improved FWIW. As for audio, and in particular the D2, I've never used the D2 without a Shunyata power cable and Hydra 8 power plant, so I can't comment on how much difference it makes.


I noticed Music Direct is actually having a special on the Shunyata gear right now, you might want to check it out.


I don't have any experience with any other gear, but I'm sure others do.


HTH,

Brian


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have all of the same issues with "clicking" through the speakers. It comes and goes as it pleases though....
> 
> 
> Jeremy




same thing with me, doesnt seem to be any rhyme or reason, happens whenever it wants to, happening with ps3 but I also believe its also ocurring with my hd player


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jeremy, is it also the PS3 as source in your case?
> 
> --Bob



Yup, but as I said it comes and goes. I have the D2 plugged into a APC battery back-up (surge side) along with the PS3 and it is plugged into a 10/2 20amp breaker. I have 1.12Q and 1.82 for firmware and Monoprice port savers with a Monster MDAV1000 HDMI cable 1 meter in length.


I have also tried the PS3 in a different outlet and a different HDMI cable but it still can be heard. It seems to be louder from the surround speakers but have matching rca cables from the D2 to the Outlaw 7100 amp so it is a bit confusing.


Jeremy


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsegrich* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Im about to get the D2 I think (possibly the AVM50), do I need to get a power conditioner like APC or something for it for surges, battery backup etc...... or is a monster power thingy ($200) a good solution.



I you're going to use a batt backup, the best place is with your pj if you have one. Improper shutdown or power outage for several seconds can fry circuits in the pj and wreak havoc with the bulb. Had this happen once and now it's protected.


John


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsegrich* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Im about to get the D2 I think (possibly the AVM50), do I need to get a power conditioner like APC or something for it for surges, battery backup etc...... or is a monster power thingy ($200) a good solution.




All gear protected by APC equipment here, power goes off if it looks like a storm or even when the sun is shinning. Nothing worse then trying to do a firmware update and having the power go off. Have had to replace our furnace control board a couple of times presumably from surges.


----------



## PSU Lion




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I presume by "video setting" here you mean the Video Adjust Menu stuff -- i.e., under the "7" key on the remote.
> 
> 
> If so, what you are reporting would be a significant bug. We haven't had it reported here before.
> 
> 
> You should contact Anthem tech support. They may have already fixed it in the V1.12s version that a number of folks are on here.
> 
> 
> EDIT: Oh and welcome! I hope you don't find these premature:
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I was hoping you would hatch more of the bouncing Anthmem mascots! I'll drop Nick a note (adding to his huge pile) and let you know if I learn anything interesting.


Thanks,

Tony


P.S. To confirm, I was talking about the video processor settings (accessed by holding down the "7" button).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PSU Lion* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I was hoping you would hatch more of the bouncing Anthmem mascots! I'll drop Nick a note (adding to his huge pile) and let you know if I learn anything interesting.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tony
> 
> 
> P.S. To confirm, I was talking about the video processor settings (accessed by holding down the "7" button).


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> This is my first post here but I have read and learned much on this thread .
> 
> 
> Here is my situation: I exchanged my AVM30 for the D2 and got it last week. All I can say is that the D2 is really impressive. I would say that there is a definite improvement in the audio side and of course the video as given a new life to my old Panny 900.
> 
> 
> I am in transition from a 720p setup towards a full 1080p installation. For the moment I am feeding the D2 with a 1080i satellite signal and I am using my Denon 5900 component out at 480i (Wich shows up as 1440x480i/59.94 on the input display).
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, the software version that came with the D2 was V1.11. I read about a numbers of bugs that have been put aside with the newer software versions especially version 1.12s.
> 
> 
> My question is as follows, until I am fully 1080p, would it be worthwhile for me to go ahead and upgrade the software version now or wait for the official upgrade to come out soon?
> 
> 
> Thanks!




I am so depressed right now.......no Anthem mascots left for me...I may not get over this one!!!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am so depressed right now.......no Anthem mascots left for me...I may not get over this one!!!



Don't worry about running out of Mascots.


Anthem Tech Support keeps sending us a daily supply of Mascots.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am so depressed right now.......no Anthem mascots left for me...I may not get over this one!!!



Our mascot distribution supervisor will be severely disciplined!


Seems he's been hording these to trade for an iPhone. But now they are free to bounce over to your place:

















>


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Our mascot distribution supervisor will be severely disciplined!
> 
> 
> Seems he's been hording these to trade for an iPhone. But now they are free to bounce over to your place:
> 
> 
> --Bob



That makes my day....I feel so much better now,


Thanks


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I should have got a copyright on those bouncy mascots when I had the chance. You know how rich I would be by now?!?!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Too late! They're in the wild now. And breeding like rabbits. (grin!)


We need more new owners on here before I can no longer find a place to sit down.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Ok Bob,

I was supposed to get my D2, A5 and A2 yesterday, and now I have to wait until Friday. And Sunday I am off to Vegas with my son.


So I guess I can wait for my mascots until the following week. You guys are great. I think you guys live on line or you have your computer in viewing room.

Gerry


----------



## Bob Pariseau

slots1,

Here's something to help you get ready for the gaming tables:








| ___ | _X_

_X_ |







| ___

_X_ | ___ |











--Bob


----------



## kal

Any news on the possibility of a 7-channel P7 amp (P5 + P2 combined)? There's been some talk about it but not sure if it would even be feasible or make sense.


Would be nice however as (a) it would take less space than a P5 and P2, and (b) likely cost slightly less than a P5 and P2 (one chassis).


The bad news would be the weight. It would be a monster.


Kal


P.S. There are various rumours for the D3 floating around but I doubt we'll see anything before next summer at the earliest (my take). Anyone care to rebut?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> slots1,
> 
> Here's something to help you get ready for the gaming tables:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> | ___ | _X_
> 
> _X_ |
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> | ___
> 
> _X_ | ___ |
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Hey, that's pretty cool (and creative)!


----------



## PSU Lion




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PSU Lion* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I was hoping you would hatch more of the bouncing Anthmem mascots! I'll drop Nick a note (adding to his huge pile) and let you know if I learn anything interesting.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tony
> 
> 
> P.S. To confirm, I was talking about the video processor settings (accessed by holding down the "7" button).



A quick update...I sent a note to Nick and he said that the issues I had with my video settings were a "known issue" which had been resolved w/ v1.12s. My only problem now is getting it installed...can't get my laptop to "see" the D2 in the installer.


How anyone made a successful update using an Apple MacBook running XP on Boot Camp v1.3 (w/ a Targus PA088 USB to RS232 adapter)?


Thanks,

Tony


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks for the update on the bug fix in V1.12s. That makes sense. I think we'd have a lot more folks complaining if this was still broken in V1.12s.


We've had very few reports of success here from folks trying to run the Anthem applications on Mac hardware (via Virtual PC, BootCamp, or Parallels). As far as I can recall, the only successes reported have been with the IoGear USB/Serial adapter and either BootCamp or Parallels, but it would probably be good to do a search in this thread while waiting for other responses.


-------------------------------------------------------


EDITED TO ADD: Also be sure you have the correct style of serial cable. You want a "straight through" cable (pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9). There is an identical looking cable, sometimes tagged as a "Null Modem" cable, which swaps some of the wires and will *NOT* work.


And we had one report from a Windows machine user (not a Mac user) who found out that he had to turn on XON/XOFF (data flow control) in his USB/Serial adapter setup to make it work with the Anthem stuff.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey, that's pretty cool (and creative)!



As if we didn't know already - *BOB* spends too much

time on AVS and Doesn't enjoy his own theater as often

as he should.


----------



## jayray

1. I used my usb-serial cable and did a backup of the settings.







Nick just sent me V.1.2s. Is it worth doing given I don't have any problems so far?


2. I there a way to eliminate the osd for volume etc. on my screen during movies. It drives my wife crazy as I am prone to tweak during the movie and I could do this with my previous equipment.


3. To add another two channels with the A2, would it be better to use the A2 to power the front channels and use the A5 for the rest?


thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1. I used my usb-serial cable and did a backup of the settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nick just sent me V.1.2s. Is it worth doing given I don't have any problems so far?
> 
> 
> 2. I there a way to eliminate the osd for volume etc. on my screen during movies. It drives my wife crazy as I am prone to tweak during the movie and I could do this with my previous equipment.
> 
> 
> 3. To add another two channels with the A2, would it be better to use the A2 to power the front channels and use the A5 for the rest?
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



1) I presume you mean V1.12s. Since you don't have problems, I'd hold off unless you want to help out by testing the Beta software and reporting any bugs you find to Anthem. It's always nice to have more people who take Beta testing seriously, but you have to be prepared for some surprises.


2) You can turn off the On Screen Display for your Main path display in Setup / Displays and Timeout. Set Main On-Screen to BYPASSED. You will then have to see the Anthem's Front Panel display for this stuff.


3) I'm not that familiar with any spec differences between these two amps, but normally you would devote the 2-channel amp to the main L/R front speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I did some ruler measurements of my odd wide-SDTV problem from the Comcast HD-DVR.


The "correct" image has a spot on aspect ratio of 1.333.


The "incorrect" (wider) image has an aspect ratio of 1.463.


So it is nearly the 1.5 you'd get if the math didn't take account of non-square SDTV pixels properly, but not quite.


Again, since I didn't see this with my D2 V1.11 software prior to this most recent Comcast software change, I think it is likely a Comcast software problem.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,


thanks from my wife







As for the amp question, I will be using the config. you described as it was suggested from someone reviewing the amp, but I trust the info from you more.


John


----------



## budeone

I like some other people have tried diffrent betas on my AVM-50. I am using 1.10 and have had no problems for a while. I see all these new versions out here.


Should I upgrade in the 50 and if so what will I get out of it?


Its hooked up to a Sony 60 inch xbr2

Sony Blu Ray Player

and regular sony dvd


Thanks


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All gear protected by APC equipment here, power goes off if it looks like a storm or even when the sun is shinning. Nothing worse then trying to do a firmware update and having the power go off. Have had to replace our furnace control board a couple of times presumably from surges.



Hi...

Where did you buy the APC equipment in Ontario? Online?

I checked out the APC website but there is no pricing anywhere...

/\\/\\


----------



## jayray

drmabuse,


I just sent you a PM.


John


----------



## KenLand

Hey Guys,


I'm just setting up my upgraded D1-HD and am having trouble getting video out on component.


I've got my Oppo 970HD hooked up HDMI only and video and sound are perfect for HDMI out, but no component out.


I get OSD over component but no video. What am I missing? I've tried component 1 & 2 with identical results.


Thanks,

Ken


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I like some other people have tried diffrent betas on my AVM-50. I am using 1.10 and have had no problems for a while. I see all these new versions out here.
> 
> 
> Should I upgrade in the 50 and if so what will I get out of it?
> 
> 
> Its hooked up to a Sony 60 inch xbr2
> 
> Sony Blu Ray Player
> 
> and regular sony dvd
> 
> 
> Thanks



If somethings not broke, don't fix it. Would wait on the Production 1.12 if all is OK.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> 
> I'm just setting up my upgraded D1-HD and am having trouble getting video out on component.
> 
> 
> I've got my Oppo 970HD hooked up HDMI only and video and sound are perfect for HDMI out, but no component out.
> 
> 
> I get OSD over component but no video. What am I missing? I've tried component 1 & 2 with identical results.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



Assuming it's restricted content on HDMI, have you tried running component from the Oppo just to check if a straight component path works?


----------



## KenLand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Assuming it's restricted content on HDMI, have you tried running component from the Oppo just to check if a straight component path works?



Yeah, directly from Oppo component looks great.


Unplug component cables from Oppo and plug into D1-HD - nothing. Argh.


Thanks,

Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah, directly from Oppo component looks great.
> 
> 
> Unplug component cables from Oppo and plug into D1-HD - nothing. Argh.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



Ken if the HDMI being sent to the Anthem's scaler is copy protected (which is almost always the case) then the Component outputs on the Main path are disabled. This is a requirement of the HDMI copy protection standard. See the Anthem manual, section 2.1. Essentially this means that HDMI video input to the Anthem has to be output to an HDMI display.


Now I believe the Oppo will send out video on both HDMI and Component at the same time when its video output resolution is set to either 480i or 480p (you should be using 480i).


So if you ALSO run Component cables from the Oppo to the Anthem then you can "pass through" that Component video to the Zone 2 Component output. Just set the Anthem to send the "unprocessed" video to Zone 2. That way you can drive an HDMI display off the Main Anthem output (fully processed video) and a Component display off the Zone 2 output (unprocessed, "pass through" of Component input).


If your main display does not have HDMI, then you should hook up your sources via Component cables to the Anthem. The Anthem will fully process that Component input to Component (or HDMI, for the future) output.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Bob

Thanks for the lucky mascots. Hope it helps in Vegas.


gerry


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi...
> 
> Where did you buy the APC equipment in Ontario? Online?
> 
> I checked out the APC website but there is no pricing anywhere...
> 
> /\\/\\




Can get it at Future shop or Staples, or try WWW.ncix.com , www.tigerdirect.ca


----------



## KenLand

Bob,


I should have known that. I guess I was expecting at worst downrezed component out. Since my analog HDTV is only 36" that would be fine.


So much for my clean, modern hookup. Have to run all of the old cables as well as the new ones. I guess this is nothing new. It's the same way with multi-zone. (You have to run all of the analog lines as well to get full functionality)


Regardless, I'm one happy camper! Man this setup looks and sounds sweet!


D1-HD to Krell to Thiel speakers and Dunlavy sub. I'm amazed at how well the Thiels and Dunlavy integrated with so little effort. Truly amazing. It's a rare treat to be overwhelmed instead of underwhelmed. I and my family were continuosly amazed watching movies last night.


Ken


----------



## cecaa850

If you use the D2's balanced outputs for your speaker amplification, can you use the unbalanced (RCA) output simultaneously for your sub?


----------



## Michael Osadciw

That's what I was thinking recently...running balanced to my amps and unbalanced to each of my channels' subs (four subs, L/R/LS/RS). The disadvantage here is there is no crossover...I don't have this processor (it's highly likely I will)...I just need to find an innovative way to integrate my subs...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you use the D2's balanced outputs for your speaker amplification, can you use the unbalanced (RCA) output simultaneously for your sub?



Yes, the balanced (XLR) and unbalanced (RCA) outputs are all live simultaneously and can be used in any combination. Be aware that there is, by design, a level difference between balanced an unbalanced. So don't be surprised if the speaker volume calibration settings have more variation than you expect.


EXTREME EXAMPLE: You could drive 4 subwoofers at the same time using the 2 balanced and the 2 unbalanced subwoofer outputs. However, all 4 share the same volume, distance, polarity and phase adjustment, as well as the same cross over and room resonance (bass parametric) filter settings. The output level difference between balanced and unbalanced could be compensated using the volume control on 2 of the subwoofers. Phase and polarity may also be adjustable using controls on each subwoofer. However you should probably leave each sub's crossover disabled and just use the crossover in the Anthem (despite limiting you to identical crossover characteristics for all 4 subs).

--Bob


----------



## jsegrich

ok this may be a silly question, but



Im getting my anthem D2 i think, but my installer isnt a dealer in it. Should I get that piece from a true anthem dealer in the area (eg, because im going to need someone experienced in it to get it working) or is it something where Ill be able to figure out how to configure it more properly (easy to use). What i want to avoid is me paying him to learn....


thoughts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsegrich* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ok this may be a silly question, but
> 
> 
> 
> Im getting my anthem D2 i think, but my installer isnt a dealer in it. Should I get that piece from a true anthem dealer in the area (eg, because im going to need someone experienced in it to get it working) or is it something where Ill be able to figure out how to configure it more properly (easy to use). What i want to avoid is me paying him to learn....
> 
> 
> thoughts?



Anthem's tech support is outstanding, but the warranty service is limited to customers who buy from an authorized Anthem dealer. This is one product where I would recommend you not try to get around that. Buy from an authorized Anthem dealer.


Now there ARE installers who are also authorized custom install Anthem dealers. The distinction is that these folks don't maintain a showroom. You can check with Anthem as to whether any particular reseller is an authorized Anthem dealer.


----------------------------


If your only concern is installer knowledge, be aware that, unfortunately, some Anthem dealers don't appear all that knowledgable about this product either. That may be changing by now, but last year, the D2's were moving so fast that many Anthem dealers never actually had one hooked up in their shop long enough to play with and get familiar with.


So check out your dealer's or installer's experience even if they ARE authorized.

--Bob


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsegrich* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ok this may be a silly question, but
> 
> 
> 
> Im getting my anthem D2 i think, but my installer isnt a dealer in it. Should I get that piece from a true anthem dealer in the area (eg, because im going to need someone experienced in it to get it working) or is it something where Ill be able to figure out how to configure it more properly (easy to use). What i want to avoid is me paying him to learn....
> 
> 
> thoughts?



Depends on your installer. Some will not install outside purchased equipment.


If your installer will allow the outside purchase I'd buy directly from the dealer myself. If not, then find out how the warranty will work as the installer will be the purchaser from the authorised dealer and not you. Would you have to go through the installer (at his rates) for any warranty issues, etc etc. Check your contract with your installer.


There seems to be sufficient help in this Forum that a lot of issues can be solved here










And I see Bob is spending more time here than listening to his D2 again














and beat me to it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I should have known that. I guess I was expecting at worst downrezed component out. Since my analog HDTV is only 36" that would be fine.
> 
> 
> So much for my clean, modern hookup. Have to run all of the old cables as well as the new ones. I guess this is nothing new. It's the same way with multi-zone. (You have to run all of the analog lines as well to get full functionality)
> 
> 
> Regardless, I'm one happy camper! Man this setup looks and sounds sweet!
> 
> 
> D1-HD to Krell to Thiel speakers and Dunlavy sub. I'm amazed at how well the Thiels and Dunlavy integrated with so little effort. Truly amazing. It's a rare treat to be overwhelmed instead of underwhelmed. I and my family were continuosly amazed watching movies last night.
> 
> 
> Ken



Ah ha! Then that explains why these showed up last night with your name on them:


>>


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Be aware that there is, by design, a level difference between balanced an unbalanced. So don't be surprised if the speaker volume calibration settings have more variation than you expect.



Is the balanced's level lower?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is the balanced's level lower?



The XLR (balanced) output is 6dB higher than the RCA output. See page 10 of the Anthem manual.


Depending on what happens at the subwoofer or amp end, you may not actually hear this volume difference.

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850

If I run it to my BFD and then to the sub, I believe there is a -4 +10 (or is it a +4 -10) switch on the back that I may be able to use for compensation. I believe it's for balanced/unbalanced connector compensation.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ah ha! Then that explains why these showed up last night with your name on them:
> 
> 
> >>


----------



## kal

FWIW, I've confirmed with Nick that you cannot output interlaced resolutions from the D2.


Digital projector owners will not care (all digital PJ's are progressive), but those of us with CRT projectors like the flexibility to run resolutions such as 1080i/71.928Hz as it (a) look no different than 1080p for 24fps film based content, (b) runs at half the bandwidth/scanrate which therefore runs the CRT projector less hard producing a bettre image (usually).


Running at 71.928Hz instead of 60Hz elliminates any 3:2 pulldown artifacts and flicker. I may try 1080p/47.952 instead, or simply not use the D2 video processing at all and feed my projector 1080i/60 directly from my sources.


FWIW, Nick has been extremely helpful (responding usually within an hour or two to my emails) and is going to look into possibly adding interlaced resolutions as a future option. He really knows his stuff. It's so refreshing to talk to a support person that actually knows their products inside and out. Support (pre-sales support at that) like he has provided is one of the reasons why Anthem is first on my list for my prepro/amp upgrade.


Kal


P.S. I dangled a few questions around the possibility of the D3 and a 7-channel P7 amp and got this response:

_"D3? Whatever it will be called, the inevitable next platform is so far in the future we haven't even begun it. Room correction would have been last year's news except it hasn't come out either thanks to the most ill-conceived worst-implemented interface burning up a year and counting... as being the ones between sources and displays, it's not as easy to use the tired "limited HDMI support provided, use component" excuse.


As for a P7... even an MCA 70 would be too big considering both spiralling shipping costs and how much room the average person has (P series with cables plugged in is already two feet deep) let alone how many equipment stands can hold 200+ lb on one shelf. The central issue is getting the heat out of the box - need big heatsinks because a fan is too noisy for the average home system - anyone who has tried using a pro amp at home in the same room as the TV can probably attest to this."_


Nice to see this sort of honesty. Fully agree with him on HDMI (worst interface ever designed).


----------



## slots1

Yes, I agree Bob is the bank of knowledge.


I better go to work and get off line.

gerry


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FWIW, I've confirmed with Nick that you cannot output interlaced resolutions from the D2.
> 
> 
> Digital projector owners will not care (all digital PJ's are progressive), but those of us with CRT projectors like the flexibility to run resolutions such as 1080i/71.928Hz as it (a) look no different than 1080p for 24fps film based content, (b) runs at half the bandwidth/scanrate which therefore runs the CRT projector less hard producing a bettre image (usually).
> 
> 
> Running at 71.928Hz instead of 60Hz elliminates any 3:2 pulldown artifacts and flicker. I may try 1080p/47.952 instead, or simply not use the D2 video processing at all and feed my projector 1080i/60 directly from my sources.
> 
> 
> FWIW, Nick has been extremely helpful (responding usually within an hour or two to my emails) and is going to look into possibly adding interlaced resolutions as a future option. He really knows his stuff. It's so refreshing to talk to a support person that actually knows their products inside and out. Support (pre-sales support at that) like he has provided is one of the reasons why Anthem is first on my list for my prepro/amp upgrade.
> 
> 
> Kal
> 
> 
> P.S. I dangled a few questions around the possibility of the D3 and a 7-channel P7 amp and got this response:
> 
> _"D3? Whatever it will be called, the inevitable next platform is so far in the future we haven't even begun it. Room correction would have been last year's news except it hasn't come out either thanks to the most ill-conceived worst-implemented interface burning up a year and counting... as being the ones between sources and displays, it's not as easy to use the tired "limited HDMI support provided, use component" excuse.
> 
> 
> As for a P7... even an MCA 70 would be too big considering both spiralling shipping costs and how much room the average person has (P series with cables plugged in is already two feet deep) let alone how many equipment stands can hold 200+ lb on one shelf. The central issue is getting the heat out of the box - need big heatsinks because a fan is too noisy for the average home system - anyone who has tried using a pro amp at home in the same room as the TV can probably attest to this."_
> 
> 
> Nice to see this sort of honesty. Fully agree with him on HDMI (worst interface ever designed).



Umm, someone needs to tell my D2 this then, because it's been outputting 1080i/60 since February 28, 2006 (and doing so beautifully I might add).


Kal, is it possible that it is the different refresh rate that is the issue? I assure you that 1080i/60 is not a problem.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

[Kal is specifically referring to the higher, custom refresh rate for 1080i -- something a CRT-based projector can take advantage of. Of course 1080i/60Hz works just fine, it just doesn't give him the advantage he's trying to get out of his CRT projector.]


Kal, I think you shouldn't give up on 1080p/48 (nominal) just yet.


And if the Gennum can handle it, I wouldn't put it past Nick and the crew to make the 1080i/72 work down the road.


You crazy CRT guys! Heck you probably still even use a turntable. (grin!)

--Bob


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Umm, someone needs to tell my D2 this then, because it's been outputting 1080i/60 since February 28, 2006 (and doing so beautifully I might add).
> 
> 
> Kal, is it possible that it is the different refresh rate that is the issue? I assure you that 1080i/60 is not a problem.



Hi Brian. Well that's strange but I think I've figured it out. You're partially right:


Yes, it's possible to select interlaced output resolutions directly in the D2. Many are listed in the manual:











I asked Nick if the 1080i/71.928 custom interlaced resolution was supported by the Anthem Live Video Settings Editor. He originally said yes and sent me the latest version (1.12k) of the tool to play with to play with.


I noticed that there was no way to set a custom rez as "interlaced" and that none of the Standard Output Formats listed were interlaced (see picture below) so I asked how one goes about setting the output as interlaced.... Nick verified and said it wasn't possible.


So I think I see the problem. Yes, it's possible to select interlaced output resolutions directly in the D2, but *creating* custom interlaced resolutions using the Live Video Settings Editor simple isn't possible as the Windows PC interface doesn't allow for it:











So this to me looks like an oversight. There's likely no reason why interlaced rez's can't be supported in the custom tool (as obviously the D2 video processing harware supports it as you've seen). Looks like the developer forgot to include a way to create one in the user interface.










Kal


EDIT: No turntable Bob... I'm digital all the way to my projector (at which point everything turns analog). My Paradigm Signature speakers are analog too I suppose.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The fact that you aren't hearing it with the A1 implies the problem is not in the data path from the D2's HDMI decoder to the rest of the digital audio circuitry, and also that there is not an external interference source affecting anything on the D2's side of the PS3's HDMI output socket, including the cable. The HDMI decoder in the D2 could still be at fault (triggered by HDMI V1.3 in the PS3).
> 
> 
> The PCM has to be stitched back together from the separate chunks of it that arrive over the HDMI. If there's an error in that process then you can get a bit of wrong data at the join. But you would expect that to happen more frequently.
> 
> 
> It is also still possible that interference is getting into the PS3 itself.
> 
> 
> We have to take it at face value that other PS3/D2 users are not experiencing this. So most likely there is either an environmental problem (external interference) at your location, or your PS3 is broken, or your Anthem is broken. I mean broken as opposed to a software issue.
> 
> 
> It is definitely a nuisance that you aren't getting it on the main L/R channels since that makes it hard to test with headphones.
> 
> 
> If you have a portable powered speaker, like a computer speaker, it might make sense to try plugging that into the Center speaker output to see if you can pick up the ticking that way. If so, then your minimal setup would be the PS3, the D2, and that powered speaker.
> 
> 
> It would still be useful to take the minimal setup to a different location (and different power circuit) to see if the ticking continues. That would eliminate any external interference that might be getting into the PS3.
> 
> 
> The next thing I'd really like to find out is if your PS3 produces ticking on a different Anthem, and if a different PS3 produces ticking on your Anthem. The first test could probably be done by taking the PS3 and powered speaker to your dealer. The second test would involve borrowing somebody's PS3.
> 
> 
> Off hand I can't think of a way you could have a software problem that is causing this and NOT causing similar problems for other PS3/Anthem users.
> 
> --Bob



Minimal setup: I pulled the D2 and PS3 out of the rack, set them up on a table far away from any potential source of radiated EMI, different AC circuit than my rack. The only connections were AC, HDMI from PS3 to D2 and headphones. Still had the noise.


Different Anthem: I took my PS3 into my dealer and hooked it into his D2/system. Clear as a bell, not a hint of the ticking noise.


I concluded that the problem is my D2. Nick agreed and will do a swap.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Minimal setup: I pulled the D2 and PS3 out of the rack, set them up on a table far away from any potential source of radiated EMI, different AC circuit than my rack. The only connections were AC, HDMI from PS3 to D2 and headphones. Still had the noise.
> 
> 
> Different Anthem: I took my PS3 into my dealer and hooked it into his D2/system. Clear as a bell, not a hint of the ticking noise.
> 
> 
> I concluded that the problem is my D2. Nick agreed and will do a swap.



I'm glad you finally got this isolated! It's a pain in the neck to have to move stuff to do tests like this, but it really is the only way to pin things with problems like this.


Here's hoping your swap unit will be problem free!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Brian. Well that's strange but I think I've figured it out. You're partially right:
> 
> 
> Yes, it's possible to select interlaced output resolutions directly in the D2. Many are listed in the manual:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I asked Nick if 1080i/71.928 custom interlaced resolutions were supported by the Anthem Live Video Settings Editor. He originally said yes and sent me the latest version (1.12k) of the tool to play with to play with.
> 
> 
> I noticed that there was no way to set a custom rez as "interlaced" and that none of the Standard Output Formats listed were interlaced (see picture below) so I asked how one goes about setting the output as interlaced.... Nick verified and said it wasn't possible.
> 
> 
> So I think I see the problem. Yes, it's possible to select interlaced output resolutions directly in the D2, but *creating* custom interlaced resolutions using the Live Video Settings Editor simple isn't possible as the Windows PC interface doesn't allow for it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this to me looks like an oversight. There's likely no reason why interlaced rez's can't be supported in the custom tool (as obviously the D2 video processing harware supports it as you've seen). Looks like the developer forgot to include a way to create one in the user interface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kal
> 
> 
> EDIT: No turntable Bob... I'm digital all the way to my projector (at which point everything turns analog). My Paradigm Signature speakers are analog too I suppose.



Kal, I believe the Interlaced vs. Progressive distinction is contained in those settings down at the bottom (near pixel clock rate).


For example if Active Vertical Size is 1080, but Active Field is 540 (EDITED to correct), then you have an interlaced stream. I'm not exactly sure how Black Size and Offset work into this, but I suspect that all the tools are there to do Progressive, vs. Progressive Segmented Frame, vs. Interlaced. I just don't know if you can get 1080i/72Hz in as a clock rate, nor whether the settings I'm thinking will generate Interlaced will actually do so (i.e., whether that has been tested outside of the "standard" interlaced output resolutions).

--Bob


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kal, I believe the Interlaced vs. Progressive distinction is contained in those settings down at the bottom (near pixel clock rate).
> 
> 
> For example if Active Vertical Size is 1080, but Active Field is 540 (EDITED to correct), then you have an interlaced stream. I'm not exactly sure how Black Size and Offset work into this, but I suspect that all the tools are there to do Progressive, vs. Progressive Segmented Frame, vs. Interlaced. I just don't know if you can get 1080i/72Hz in as a clock rate, nor whether the settings I'm thinking will generate Interlaced will actually do so (i.e., whether that has been tested outside of the "standard" interlaced output resolutions).
> 
> --Bob



Interesting Bob. Thanks. The 3 "Field" values aren't editable either - which is odd, since there are slider bars but no way to edit the fields.


Kal


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting Bob. Thanks. The 3 "Field" values aren't editable either - which is odd, since there are slider bars but no way to edit the fields.
> 
> 
> Kal



You have to click the little check box at the top to turn on the pixel clock rate, etc. fields, I believe.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin












Just for a quick clarification: isn't this menu available without using a PC and LVSE?


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm glad you finally got this isolated! It's a pain in the neck to have to move stuff to do tests like this, but it really is the only way to pin things with problems like this.
> 
> 
> Here's hoping your swap unit will be problem free!
> 
> --Bob



I can identify with "pain in the neck" -- it comes from beating one's head against a wall.


Apparently this little guy has the same problem, so I've adopted him as my mascot until my replacement unit arrives.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0



Oh man, that's just so......_wrong_!!!


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh man, that's just so......_wrong_!!!



improved gif image and broke previous link, sorry...


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You have to click the little check box at the top to turn on the pixel clock rate, etc. fields, I believe.
> 
> --Bob



Nope - it doesn't unlock those fields. Only unlocks the pixel clock rate so that you can type in the very precise clock rate which defines a very precise vert refresh rate. (sort of an odd way to do it, but that's what Anthem's done - click on the "?" for the math you need to use to figure out how clock rate translates to vert refresh rate).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0



No - only a bunch of preset resolutions/refresh rates are presented within the D2. If you want to customize, you need to use the LVSE tool. I'm not sure (haven't read the whole D2 manual yet), but I bet the customized gamma correction curve is also only available via LVSE.


Kal


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nope - it doesn't unlock those fields. Only unlocks the pixel clock rate so that you can type in the very precise clock rate which defines a very precise vert refresh rate. (sort of an odd way to do it, but that's what Anthem's done - click on the "?" for the math you need to use to figure out how clock rate translates to vert refresh rate).
> 
> 
> 
> No - only a bunch of preset resolutions/refresh rates are presented within the D2. If you want to customize, you need to use the LVSE tool. I'm not sure (haven't read the whole D2 manual yet), but I bet the customized gamma correction curve is also only available via LVSE.
> 
> 
> Kal



Kal, if you and Bob P figure this thing out this 'CRT conversation' should for sure be saved into the Galatic encyclopedia at the front of this thread........


Alain, this should be noted if it is resolved.


Bob I wish you knew as much about financial services software as you do about this stuff,......I could retire and watch some good movies!!!!!!!


Peter


----------



## kal

Not sure if it's ready for the encyclopedia yet... Hell, I don't even have a D2 (yet). Just posterizing as to how I'd use it. Hard to know what's possible and what isn't without the thing in front of me.










I mentioned to Nick that it seemed that the only limitation is in the 'Live Video Settings Editor' interface. It's missing a checkbox for 'interlaced'. He wrote back that it was a bit more complicated than that (always is) but that they'd put it on the todo list:

_"The LVSE loads numbers into the Gennum chip... the issue is that the Gennum only outputs progressive. We have to figure out a way to talk to the interlacer via LVSE, which is external to the Gennum processor. *Going to work on this*."_


So I understand the problem. Interlaced resolutions via LVSE were basically overlooked as (frankly) it's a fairly small market. Most people that are better served by interlaced rez's don't understand the benefits of running refresh rates like 71.928Hz (no 3:2 pulldown required).


If it ever does get 'resolved', it'll be an obvious option right in the LVSE to do interlaced rez's. No need for an encyclopedia entry.










Kal


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1. I used my usb-serial cable and did a backup of the settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nick just sent me V.1.2s. Is it worth doing given I don't have any problems so far?
> 
> 
> 2. I there a way to eliminate the osd for volume etc. on my screen during movies. It drives my wife crazy as I am prone to tweak during the movie and I could do this with my previous equipment.
> 
> 
> 3. To add another two channels with the A2, would it be better to use the A2 to power the front channels and use the A5 for the rest?
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



That is the way my system is setup. The two front channels typically carry more of the "load", so I wanted to power them with the A2. I use the A5 to drive the remaining 5 channels.


Buddy


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I should have known that. I guess I was expecting at worst downrezed component out. Since my analog HDTV is only 36" that would be fine.
> 
> 
> So much for my clean, modern hookup. Have to run all of the old cables as well as the new ones. I guess this is nothing new. It's the same way with multi-zone. (You have to run all of the analog lines as well to get full functionality)
> 
> 
> Regardless, I'm one happy camper! Man this setup looks and sounds sweet!
> 
> 
> D1-HD to Krell to Thiel speakers and Dunlavy sub. I'm amazed at how well the Thiels and Dunlavy integrated with so little effort. Truly amazing. It's a rare treat to be overwhelmed instead of underwhelmed. I and my family were continuosly amazed watching movies last night.
> 
> 
> Ken



Ken,


You can patch the firmware on the Oppo 970 to solve your problem. I'm connected via HDMI from the Oppo to the D2 and then out via component to my 720p projector. I haven't upgraded it yet.


Buddy


----------



## KenLand

Buddy,


Thanks! I've been trying to get my Oppo and Cable box working via component all evening. If Oppo will strip off the MacroVision then that's great. Right now, I'd be happy if I could get my D1-HD to just pass-thru my Oppo's component out.


I thought I could connect my component TV to Comp2 and set it to Unprocessed to get pass-thru, but it doesn't appear to work like that.


The only way I can get a proper component signal on comp2 is if I select Preferred Component. Well, that messes up my DVI only projector because it needs RGB and Preferred Component puts out YCbCr even over HDMI - argh!


I'm at 1.11 on my D1-HD. Will 1.12 give me a component pass-thru?


Or am I doing it wrong in 1.11?


I'll drop Nick a note tomorrow...


Thanks,

Ken


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No - only a bunch of preset resolutions/refresh rates are presented within the D2. If you want to customize, you need to use the LVSE tool. I'm not sure (haven't read the whole D2 manual yet), but I bet the customized gamma correction curve is also only available via LVSE.
> 
> 
> Kal



Thanks for the clarification Kal. I knew the box looked familiar, but I guess you dont get the custom stuff without a PC.


----------



## cecaa850

I'm planning on getting an Oppo to go with my (soon to have) D2. Which of the models 981/970/971 is preferred in a strictly HDMI hookup?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is the way my system is setup. The two front channels typically carry more of the "load", so I wanted to power them with the A2. I use the A5 to drive the remaining 5 channels.
> 
> 
> Buddy



Just got the A2 yesterday




























Took some time to hook things up given I took Bob's advice to use the A2 with my fronts. Calibrated everything and watched Black Hawk Down in PCM. Sounded fantastic.


However, one odd thing appeared. When I played PCM before with the 5.1 setup, the display showed plain 5.1. Now it shows 5.1 + PLIIx. Wondered if this was caused by telling the AVM50 to copy sides to rear and PLIIx was laid over to accomodate the extra channels. Any Ideas about this?


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm planning on getting an Oppo to go with my (soon to have) D2. Which of the models 981/970/971 is preferred in a strictly HDMI hookup?



Get the Oppo 970 and hook it up at HDMI 480i for standard DVD or CD playback.


You do not need the improved scaler in the other Oppos since the D2 will be taking care of all that for you. And they don't support HDMI 480i output.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm planning on getting an Oppo to go with my (soon to have) D2. Which of the models 981/970/971 is preferred in a strictly HDMI hookup?



You are investing in the Best Pre/Pro on the planet.


I assume that is because you want to join the new High-Definition

digital age of new video and sound.


Therefore - my question is why invest in a technology that is

OBSOLETE? Although all the Oppo products do a wonderful

job and have a great price performance point. They are by

Definition OBSOLETE.


Is that why you are buying a D2?


Your new Movie players should be a Pioneer BDP-94HD and

Toshiba XA2.


With those two players you get the BEST of the HD revolution

and they both do what the Oppo will do for SD DVD. The

Pioneer will automatically output 480i on HDMI for SD DVD

to let the D2 scale it up to High-definition. The XA2 has a

great built-in scaler for converting SD DVD to HD. Which gives

you the best results - lets your eyes choose. But you don't

need an Oppo for SD DVD and CD's - you are covered with

the two players I suggested above.


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Get the Oppo 970 and hook it up at HDMI 480i for standard DVD or CD playback.
> 
> 
> You do not need the improved scaler in the other Oppos since the D2 will be taking care of all that for you. And they don't support HDMI 480i output.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you very much, I'll order it today. Bob, please get some mascots waiting for me!


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are investing in the Best Pre/Pro on the planet.
> 
> 
> I assume that is because you want to join the new High-Definition
> 
> digital age of new video and sound.
> 
> 
> Therefore - my question is why invest in a technology that is
> 
> OBSOLETE? Although all the Oppo products do a wonderful
> 
> job and have a great price performance point. They are by
> 
> Definition OBSOLETE.
> 
> 
> Is that why you are buying a D2?
> 
> 
> Your new Movie players should be a Pioneer BDP-94HD and
> 
> Toshiba XA2.
> 
> 
> With those two players you get the BEST of the HD revolution
> 
> and they both do what the Oppo will do for SD DVD. The
> 
> Pioneer will automatically output 480i on HDMI for SD DVD
> 
> to let the D2 scale it up to High-definition. The XA2 has a
> 
> great built-in scaler for converting SD DVD to HD. Which gives
> 
> you the best results - lets your eyes choose. But you don't
> 
> need an Oppo for SD DVD and CD's - you are covered with
> 
> the two players I suggested above.



Great advice. I thought that the Oppo would be a lot quicker when watching DVD's as opposed to the other HD media players ( I have a lot of DVD's). I also thought it would be easier for the kids to use as it's a standard DVD player (and CHEAP). I may rethink.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Great advice. I thought that the Oppo would be a lot quicker when watching DVD's as opposed to the other HD media players ( I have a lot of DVD's). I also thought it would be easier for the kids to use as it's a standard DVD player (and CHEAP). I may rethink.



You are RIGHT on BOTH of those issues.


Kids can change the equation


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Great advice. I thought that the Oppo would be a lot quicker when watching DVD's as opposed to the other HD media players ( I have a lot of DVD's). I also thought it would be easier for the kids to use as it's a standard DVD player (and CHEAP). I may rethink.



I would also rather let kids play with a $100 player


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kids can change the equation



Kids change everything


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kids change everything




They sure do - but since you were buying a D2 - a non-Kid

Pre/Pro - I didn't know kids were in the equation.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Your new Movie players should be a Pioneer BDP-94HD and
> 
> Toshiba XA2.
> 
> 
> But you don't need an Oppo for SD DVD and CD's - you are covered with
> 
> the two players I suggested above.



Hank - you need the Oppo for SACD and DVDA as well as SD DVD









Some of us still listen to MC music you know....


----------



## cecaa850

I believe the D2 has 4 HDMI inputs, correct? I could use one for the Oppo, one for HD cable, one for Blueray and one for HDDVD. My sons PS2 does not have HDMI so I'm safe there, neither does my CD changer.


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> They sure do - but since you were buying a D2 - a non-Kid
> 
> Pre/Pro - I didn't know kids were in the equation.



Big kids need toys too!!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hank - you need the Oppo for SACD and DVDA as well as SD DVD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of us still listen to MC music you know....



Oh Ya Ya Ya - those other OBSOLETE technologies.


I have a way of FORGETTING about Obsolete technologies

and moving forward with the NEW ONES










I don't think cecaa850's Kids will be using those OBSOLETE

technologies.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe the D2 has 4 HDMI inputs, correct? I could use one for the Oppo, one for HD cable, one for Blueray and one for HDDVD. My sons PS2 does not have HDMI so I'm safe there, neither does my CD changer.



You will actually find your HD Cable box will work

better on Competent than HDMI. I have two HD

DVRs and they are both hooked up via Component.

HDMI channel Surfing is a PAIN IN THE BUTT - the

D2 and PJ have to handshake all over again - every

time you switch channels. There is no HDMI copy

protection on TV - so Competent works better.


I have a very-high-end theater and so far I have only

used two HDMI ports on the D2 for HD DVD and Blu-Ray.

Nothing else HAS TO HAVE HDMI inputs.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a way of FORGETTING about Obsolete technologies
> 
> and moving forward with the NEW ONES



What you really mean is "moving forward with the NEW OBSOLETE TECHNOLOGIES".


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hank - you need the Oppo for SACD and DVDA as well as SD DVD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of us still listen to MC music you know....



Does the Oppo do SACD over HDMI (I'm guessing no)?


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You will actually find your HD Cable box will work
> 
> better on Competent than HDMI. I have two HD
> 
> DVRs and they are both hooked up via Component.
> 
> HDMI channel Surfing is a PAIN IN THE BUTT - the
> 
> D2 and PJ have to handshake all over again - every
> 
> time you switch channels. There is no HDMI copy
> 
> protection on TV - so Competent works better.
> 
> 
> I have a very-high-end theater and so far I have only
> 
> used two HDMI ports on the D2 for HD DVD and Blu-Ray.
> 
> Nothing else HAS TO HAVE HDMI inputs.



OK, now I've got to start takin notes. Component from cable box, check.

Carl


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What you really mean is "moving forward with the NEW OBSOLETE TECHNOLOGIES".



No doubt someday obsolete. That is Technology for you










I just upgraded my laptop this week after 3 years.


Way better than obsolete laptop


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does the Oppo do SACD over HDMI (I'm guessing no)?



Yes it does (converts it to PCM). I personally don't think it does as good a job as the PS3, but that's just me...


On another note (and I think I have said it before), I prefer to use the cheap (relatively speaking) OPPO whenever I can since if I wear out the drive it's cheaper to replace (my parents go through about 1 drive per year - but they use it a LOT).


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes it does (converts it to PCM). I personally don't think it does as good a job as the PS3, but that's just me...
> 
> 
> On another note (and I think I have said it before), I prefer to use the cheap (relatively speaking) OPPO whenever I can since if I wear out the drive it's cheaper to replace (my parents go through about 1 drive per year - but they use it a LOT).



Thanks Joe. Any opinion on how SACD via HDMI compares to SACD via analog output?


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does the Oppo do SACD over HDMI (I'm guessing no)?



Yes but it converts it to PCM first. (slow connection - was answered above







)


I'm actually still using my Pioneer DVi59 over analog and bought the Oppo for when I finally do the 30HD upgrade (soon it seems). That way I get SACD/DVDA/SD-DVD/CD over HDMI in one box.


Blu-Ray or HD-DVD for me when a clearer winner is chosen. Feeding an Elite 940 so upconverted SD DVD is fine for now.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Either V1.11e or a V1.12 release should be fine for you. We have more people using V1.11e reporting here so I suppose that's less risky. But it looks like there are some definite improvements coming in the V1.12 versions as well.
> 
> --Bob



Well, since I'm on v1.11e now, I'll give that a shot first and report back. It will be a BDP-1200 to D2 to RS-1 chain.


----------



## brado32

Guys, posted this somewhere else, thought I would try here..


I have spent my july 4th holiday re-doing my home theater..


I have a new Sony Perl, anthem avm50, new D$ HD DVR box..


I have tried to two days to get anything out of the avm50 (hdmi).. I can plug my sat box directly into the perl and get a great 1080i picture, but not thru the anthem. Its like the hdmi ports are turned off or something.. when I switch to the sat input on the anthem, I cant even get the sound..


Im waiting to get some of nicks time today, but does anyone have any ideas?


running 1.11 anthem


-Brad


----------



## zzzzdoc

OK Brad. You've found the right spot. Now watch the experts here work. It can be impressive.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Guys, posted this somewhere else, thought I would try here..
> 
> 
> I have spent my july 4th holiday re-doing my home theater..
> 
> 
> I have a new Sony Perl, anthem avm50, new D$ HD DVR box..
> 
> 
> I have tried to two days to get anything out of the avm50 (hdmi).. I can plug my sat box directly into the perl and get a great 1080i picture, but not thru the anthem. Its like the hdmi ports are turned off or something.. when I switch to the sat input on the anthem, I cant even get the sound..
> 
> 
> Im waiting to get some of nicks time today, but does anyone have any ideas?
> 
> 
> running 1.11 anthem
> 
> 
> -Brad



Greetings,


This is going to sound silly but, you have gone through the setup process and designated which HDMI ports go to which and selected HDMI as your output etc?


I have the Pearl and AVM-50 and have no problem. You will need to provide a bit more info on what your current settings are in order for any trouble shooting to occur.


Regards,


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes but it converts it to PCM first. (slow connection - was answered above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> I'm actually still using my Pioneer DVi59 over analog and bought the Oppo for when I finally do the 30HD upgrade (soon it seems). That way I get SACD/DVDA/SD-DVD/CD over HDMI in one box.



I am using the Pio 59avi as well, but my thought process is the same as your re HDMI for SACD, DVD-A etc.


----------



## brado32

HI,


I have gone thru and thru the settings .. I think they are right...


in section 8, video output, I have hdmi preferred set.. I have tried every possible resolution, so its set now to auto..


in section 5, my sat1 source is set for hdmi 1


what else is there???


thanks


-B


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HI,
> 
> 
> I have gone thru and thru the settings .. I think they are right...
> 
> 
> in section 8, video output, I have hdmi preferred set.. I have tried every possible resolution, so its set now to auto..
> 
> 
> in section 5, my sat1 source is set for hdmi 1
> 
> 
> what else is there???
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> -B



Auto is typically a bad output resolution, if you know what the pearl takes, I assume 1080p60, use that.


Have you checked if component through the Anthem to the Pearl works?


Have you checked the HDMI output is going to the Pearl input (not trying to be insulting, just easy to mix up the 4 HDMIs)


Lastly, what Placidman was asking, if you have the DVD input (if that is what you are using as an input) set to HDMIx where the X equals the input port, and you have set HDMI repeater off. You should set audio as HDMI also. So the big issue is the input setting vs the output (but fix that too). Do you at least see the Anthem blue screen and logo when you power on the Amthem?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HI,
> 
> 
> I have gone thru and thru the settings .. I think they are right...
> 
> 
> in section 8, video output, I have hdmi preferred set.. I have tried every possible resolution, so its set now to auto..
> 
> 
> in section 5, my sat1 source is set for hdmi 1
> 
> 
> what else is there???
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> -B



First, does the Anthem Setup menu display properly on your projector? Those graphics are internally generated in the Anthem and if that's not displaying then we need to debug the output side of your Anthem setup before worrying about any source devices.


-------------------------------------------------------------


If the Setup menu displays properly then the output side is working and we need to debug the input side.


The most likely thing is that you have to go into the Setup / Source Setup menu for each of your HDMI input source devices and set HDMI Repeater = NO. That causes the Anthem to trick each HDMI source device into thinking it is directly connected to a TV, which gets around any number of problems in poor HDMI implementation in the source devices.


If that doesn't do it for you then do this:


* First you say you are on V1.11 software. I need you to confirm that it is really V1.11 and not something like V1.11e. Press Select on the remote and the version number will display in the Front Panel display. If you are actually on something newer than V1.11 (such as V1.11e) what follow here does not apply. You already have this bug fix and there must be some other problem.


* Go to each source device (whether HDMI or component) and set it to send no higher than 720p video resolution to the Anthem.


* In Setup / Video Output, set your Anthem's output resolution to 720p (I believe your Pearl will accept that). Back out of the Setup menu and Accept that change.


* Power cycle the Anthem. This is a crucial step. See if things now work.


If 720p in and out works for you and 1080i doesn't then you have been bitten by the 1080i/1080p bug that affected a number of owners with the original V1.11 software. Contact Anthem tech support and they will send you new Beta "test" software to install that fixes that bug -- most likely either V1.11e or V1.12s.


Let's see what the answer is with these steps and we'll take it from there.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HI,
> 
> 
> I have gone thru and thru the settings .. I think they are right...
> 
> 
> in section 8, video output, I have hdmi preferred set.. I have tried every possible resolution, so its set now to auto..
> 
> 
> in section 5, my sat1 source is set for hdmi 1
> 
> 
> what else is there???
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> -B



Greetings,


Brad, have you tried changing the HDMI "Synch" setting in the Video Output menu? I have mine set to Normal but there is an Inverted setting as well.


The question that was asked regarding whether or not you can view the Anthem's set menu through the projector is an important one. If you can then we have at least established that the Anthem and the Sony have synched up and that the problem is probably between the sources and the Anthem.


I got your PM...


Regards,


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Joe. Any opinion on how SACD via HDMI compares to SACD via analog output?



Man, you go away to watch a couple of movies and a whole page goes by










I'm sorry I can't really answer your question, however I do have an opinion










Just my opinion, but I trust the digital to analog of the D2 more than either the Oppo or PS3 (I have never heard which DAC's they use). I know I used to use a Yamaha which had decent DAC's, but I suspect they are not that great. The Anthem does have good inputs though. Given the size of the Oppo and the complexity of the PS3, I would also suspect marginal power supplies (as far as noise).


----------



## obie_fl

Kal - Thanks for answering most of my custom resolution question from last November .


Yea I'm still using my CRT too


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am using the Pio 59avi as well, but my thought process is the same as your re HDMI for SACD, DVD-A etc.



I think both the Oppo and PS3 over HDMI do SACD just as good and quite possibly better then the 79AVi analog. I admit to not doing blind testing between the three but am happy enough with the Oppo and PS3 to not bother re-connecting the 79AVi. I really need to sell the 79AVi while it is still worth something.


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Your new Movie players should be a Pioneer BDP-94HD and
> 
> Toshiba XA2.



Has the handshake issue between the BDP-94HD and the D2 been resolved?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has the handshake issue between the BDP-94HD and the D2 been resolved?



No and Yes.


If you power them up in the right order there are none.


I have no issues.


Otherwise - HDMI handshake issues will be fixed soon.


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kal - Thanks for answering most of my custom resolution question from last November .
> 
> 
> Yea I'm still using my CRT too



Excellent! That makes two of us! Hopefully Nick and coerce their software guys to allow for custom interlaced outputs in the LVSE software.


Kal


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Our crack research department has just confirmed that the iPhone does *NOT* come with HDMI V1.3... (grin!)

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Excellent! That makes two of us! Hopefully Nick and coerce their software guys to allow for custom interlaced outputs in the LVSE software.
> 
> 
> Kal



Kal, you do understand the challenge here right? As I have posted many times (check post #7 in this thread from March 2006), the D2 takes every video input and immediately scales/deinterlaces it to 1080p. This is done specifically by the Gennum processor in the D2. Again, one more time, it takes every input, regardless of anybody's settings or chosen options, etc., and brings the signal immediately to 1080p, period....regardless of configured settings, regardless of anything the user controls, every signal is brought to 1080p first and foremost. From there, the only way an interlaced output is accomodated is by sending that 1080p signal to an interlacer that is made by Anthem, not be Gennum, and is contained within the D2. The interlacer will take the 1080p signal and produce a perfect field by field interlaced output for those who choose it in video output menu 8. I use 1080i/60, but there are other options as well.


So...back we go to the LVSE...this software is designed to interact directly with the Gennum processor, not with the interlacer built into the D2. Because of this, the only settings you can affect are those that affect the Gennum directly. Hence, no interlaced options.


So...what you are talking about is a complete rewrite of the LVSE to accomodate not only the Gennum processor but the Anthem interlacer as well. I'm not saying this is impossible, just trying to clarify that this would be a major change to the LVSE as originally designed.


BTW, buy the D2, just do it, you will be happy with it...I promise 


-Brian


----------



## kal

Hey Brian - Yes, I fully understand the complexities involved here. Frankly, if I was Anthem I wouldn't bother working on this as it's a lot of work for a very small % of users. But Nick did write me back with (note the last part):

_"The LVSE loads numbers into the Gennum chip... the issue is that the Gennum only outputs progressive. We have to figure out a way to talk to the interlacer via LVSE, which is external to the Gennum processor. *Going to work on this.*"_


Even if nothing is done, 1080i/60 with the gamma adjustment and some other niceties like subtle image shifting and other things will make me get the D2. Hell, just the HDMI inputs makes me get the D2 as the D1 has no HDMI inputs (for lossless codec LPCM streaming which is my major reason for wanting to buy the unit).


No need to sell me further. I've already been sold for some time now. Just working out the implementation details at this point. The D2/P5 combo will be a nice addition to my Paradigm Signature S8/C5/ADP speakers. (My current Acurus preamp and amps are nice but not quite up to the same level as the Signature/Anthem Statement products).


Kal


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Brian - Yes, I fully understand the complexities involved here. Frankly, if I was Anthem I wouldn't bother working on this as it's a lot of work for a very small % of users. But Nick did write me back with (note the last part):
> 
> _"The LVSE loads numbers into the Gennum chip... the issue is that the Gennum only outputs progressive. We have to figure out a way to talk to the interlacer via LVSE, which is external to the Gennum processor. *Going to work on this.*"_
> 
> 
> Even if nothing is done, 1080i/60 with the gamma adjustment and some other niceties like subtle image shifting and other things will make me get the D2. Hell, just the HDMI inputs makes me get the D2 as the D1 has no HDMI inputs (for lossless codec LPCM streaming which is my major reason for wanting to buy the unit).
> 
> 
> No need to sell me further. I've already been sold for some time now. Just working out the implementation details at this point. The D2/P5 combo will be a nice addition to my Paradigm Signature S8/C5/ADP speakers. (My current Acurus preamp and amps are nice but not quite up to the same level as the Signature/Anthem Statement products).
> 
> 
> Kal



Gotcha, very cool. I LOVE the Paradigm Signature speakers, you've got great taste for sure 


But glad to hear that you get the whole thing...it will be nice to see the advancements in LVSE in the future...


I can't remember the last time I was this passionate about a pre-amp...probably because the answer is "never"!! I am always looking for the better solution, and I gotta say, the D2 is one of those products that are quite rare - it reaches a level of feature/functionality combined with pure audio/video quality that we just don't see enough of anymore...it will always have a legendary place in my heart that's for sure...no matter how many incredibly cool pre-amp/processors I might fall for in the future...this one is cleary "different" in that special way that makes us all smile 


Cheers guys,

Brian


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Our crack research department has just confirmed that the iPhone does *NOT* come with HDMI V1.3... (grin!)
> 
> --Bob



That's because Apple has shipped HDMI v1.4 over USB 3.0 that is designed to interconnect to the D2 ver 1.5 through a secret panel in a location that is controlled by a schematic held by one of the Pariseau Inc clones!!!!!


Peter


ps apparently, Rob Tomlin has a dongle v1.0 or is it dingle that Hank says will only work over component at 270i. Lets see Anthem solve that one!!!!!!


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think both the Oppo and PS3 over HDMI do SACD just as good and quite possibly better then the 79AVi analog. I admit to not doing blind testing between the three but am happy enough with the Oppo and PS3 to not bother re-connecting the 79AVi. I really need to sell the 79AVi while it is still worth something.



You mean the D2 decoding PCM sounds better than analog output from 79avi. I could believe that.










larry


----------



## obie_fl

Yep I bought a D2 mainly for the high bandwidth digital interface (HDMI) not as an analog PreAmp.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am using the Pio 59avi as well, but my thought process is the same as your re HDMI for SACD, DVD-A etc.



It has been discussed before Rob, but if you go the Oppo route be aware for hi-res over HDMI you need to set the Oppo to minimum 720p (or 1080i) output to get all the channels. When you want to watch a DVD you would switch back to 480i of course and let the 50/D2 do it's magic. As a transport the Oppo 970 seems to be pretty d&mned good for the price.


I wish Oppo would solve this with new firmware that senses SACD/DVDA or DVD and changes the o/p automatically. Just another macro to add to the remote I guess.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep I bought a D2 mainly for the high bandwidth digital interface (HDMI) not as an analog PreAmp.



You got that right - PCM over HDMI is WAY BETTER than Analog.


I had analog inputs on my Lexicon MC12b. I bought the D2 to

JOIN the Digital Age.


After all - this is the 21st Century


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Buddy,
> 
> 
> Thanks! I've been trying to get my Oppo and Cable box working via component all evening. If Oppo will strip off the MacroVision then that's great. Right now, I'd be happy if I could get my D1-HD to just pass-thru my Oppo's component out.
> 
> 
> I thought I could connect my component TV to Comp2 and set it to Unprocessed to get pass-thru, but it doesn't appear to work like that.
> 
> 
> The only way I can get a proper component signal on comp2 is if I select Preferred Component. Well, that messes up my DVI only projector because it needs RGB and Preferred Component puts out YCbCr even over HDMI - argh!
> 
> 
> I'm at 1.11 on my D1-HD. Will 1.12 give me a component pass-thru?
> 
> 
> Or am I doing it wrong in 1.11?
> 
> 
> I'll drop Nick a note tomorrow...
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



Ken,


My D2 came with 1.11e installed. I had problems with this version using component, so I sent a note to Nick and he sent me 1.12s. This version has worked fine for me thus far. My Oppo connection works fine with the patched firmware, but I do have from time to time issues with my HD cable feed, depending on whether the program is protected or not. Some programs are and I get the 480p max copy protected indication on the display of the D2 instead of the native resolution of the channel.


Buddy


----------



## lazarus28

1.12q is causing me some new issues with certain sources that requires me to power-cycle the Anthem in order for video or sound to work properly.


Would somebody please be so kind as to send me 1.12s to [email protected] ?


T'would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lazarus28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1.12q is causing me some new issues with certain sources that requires me to power-cycle the Anthem in order for video or sound to work properly.
> 
> 
> Would somebody please be so kind as to send me 1.12s to [email protected] ?
> 
> 
> T'would be greatly appreciated!



Folks, for request like this, you need to specify whether you have a D2 or an AVM-50. The software is different because the hardware is different.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ken,
> 
> 
> My D2 came with 1.11e installed. I had problems with this version using component, so I sent a note to Nick and he sent me 1.12s. This version has worked fine for me thus far. My Oppo connection works fine with the patched firmware, but I do have from time to time issues with my HD cable feed, depending on whether the program is protected or not. Some programs are and I get the 480p max copy protected indication on the display of the D2 instead of the native resolution of the channel.
> 
> 
> Buddy



This is surprising.


Is your HD cable feed connected to the D2 by Component or HDMI?


Also is the feed to your TV from the D2 Component or HDMI?


Also make sure you have Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO set for each HDMI input source. This will keep your source box from trying to query your TV through the D2 regarding copy protection (instead the D2 will take care of that itself).

--Bob


----------



## lazarus28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Folks, for request like this, you need to specify whether you have a D2 or an AVM-50. The software is different because the hardware is different.
> 
> --Bob



Sorry about that. I sometimes forget that this thread covers the AVM-50 as well. I have a D2 (D1-HD, actually).


And, as always, thanks for the help, Bob! It's *amazing* how much input you and a few select others have put into this massive thread!


----------



## cobracalde

What about your Picture menu settings (DVD, HD-DVD, BRD)?


Image Color

Detail Enhancement

Noise Reduction

Motion Threshold


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What about your Picture menu settings (DVD, HD-DVD, BRD)?
> 
> 
> Image Color
> 
> Detail Enhancement
> 
> Noise Reduction
> 
> Motion Threshold
> 
> 
> Thanks



These adjustments are in the Video Source Adjust / Picture menu. They are remembered on an input source by input source basis. They can also be adjusted on the fly from your computer using the Live Video Settings Editor application.


Image Color: Select both Auto YCbCr and Studio RGB (both factory defaults). If you have a screwy source device that isn't sending the normal Color Space for YCbCr you will see greens over or under emphasized by 15%. Forcing SDTV or HDTV YCbCr will fix that. The Auto setting automatically switches what the Anthem is expecting based on the input video resolution. This is almost never a problem with modern sources. If you have a source which thinks it should be sending RGB to a computer instead of to a home theater, Extended RGB input data format may work better. The problem will be that black levels seem to be off by quite a bit. It is usually better to set your source to send Studio RGB if possible. (Note: YCbCr is usually a better choice for source video data format than either style of RGB. It will also be the expected default for HDMI connections.) See the writeups on Color Space and Data Format linked off the first post of this thread for more info on this stufff.


Bright/Contrast/Color: Adjust up or down from the factory default mid-range position by modest amounts as necessary to refine these levels for each source device. You can use a standard DVD calibration DVD to test to start. HD-DVD and Blu-Ray calibration DVDs should be available this summer. Remember, you adjust your TV's own settings FIRST, using the Anthem's test charts. Only AFTER that do you tweak these Video Source Adjust settings to refine as necessary for each individual source device. See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF techs" post linked off the first post of this thread.


Film Mode: Auto Detect (factory default). This one is very important. Do not turn this Off unless you are sure you are seeing de-interlacing errors. This might happen in a poorly authored DVD that is actually a DVD of a TV program but has been miscoded as film-based instead. The Anthem is good enough at figuring stuff out on its own that you are unlikely to need to fiddle with this. You wan't Auto Detect for ALL SOURCES -- including television programs from both SDTV and HDTV.


Detail Enhancement: 0 (factory default). This "sharpness" adjustment should only be used if you CAN'T adjust Sharpness in your display. There should be no need to adjust this on a source by source basis otherwise..


Noise Reduction: 0 (factory default). This is for crappy source content. You shouldn't have that from any of the discs you'll be playing, but may have it on some TV programs. Noise Reduction will also "soften" the image -- eliminating details you probably want to see. If imaging noise is bad enough that your are tempted to turn this on, you should be prepared for having to crank it up quite a bit -- which will dramatically soften the image (loss of details).


Motion Threshold: 4 (factory default). It is unlikely you will need to adjust this unless you are playing a "problem" standard DVD that has some peculiarity which causes de-interlacing problems. Odds are you won't even see these in common, commercial DVDs. It's for people who like to tweak. If you want to learn about the two types of de-interlacing that the Anthem is switching between based on motion in each portion of the image, read the excellent writeups on de-interlacing problems in the Secrets of Home Theater web site.


Chroma Bug Filter: OFF. Leave this off unless you are sure you are seeing the Chroma Upsampling Error in images. You may see this in some poorer quality DVD players. It looks like horizontal lines in solid colored regions. Turning this on also "softens" color details a bit (which is how it filters out the problem) so leave it OFF by default. Don't use this with other video sources such as HDTV since they won't have this problem. The Chroma Upsampling Error happens when a DVD player screws up the process of turning YCbCr 4:2:0 (the data on a disc) into YCbCr 4:2:2. See the writeups on Data Format linked off the first post of this thread for a translation.


Video ADC: These adjustments primarily help fine tune S-video input sources. See the Anthem manual for suggested uses. Leave in the factory default settings otherwise. Rarely you may need these for some Component video sources as well.

--Bob


----------



## KenLand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ken,
> 
> 
> My D2 came with 1.11e installed. I had problems with this version using component, so I sent a note to Nick and he sent me 1.12s. This version has worked fine for me thus far. My Oppo connection works fine with the patched firmware, but I do have from time to time issues with my HD cable feed, depending on whether the program is protected or not. Some programs are and I get the 480p max copy protected indication on the display of the D2 instead of the native resolution of the channel.
> 
> 
> Buddy



Nick and I got in a little debugging on Friday. From what Nick said, any time you have Unproces'd selected the Anthem should act like a dumb switch and let whatever is on the component input flow to the component output.


Mine appears to be applying DRM blackout regardless of the Processed/Unprocessed selection.


The only way to make it "work" is to select Component as Scaler Input.


Hopefully a quick FW update will fix me up.


Ken


----------



## drsimnal

Hi. I just got my RS-1 hooked up last night. I was hoping it would resolve some issues I was having with the D2 (previously hooked up to a BenQ 8700). I couldn't get HDMI output consistently with the benq, but now it's fine. However, the Tosh XA-2 is a different story. I have no output via HDMI or via component thru the D2. I'm upgrading the firmware on the Tosh to the latest. I saw people here talking about 1.12, but the anthem D2 website only has 1.11 available. Can you tell me if the Tosh firmware upgrade will fix my issues?


Also, here is a weird thing with my D2. When I turn it off, after say watching an SD disc on my Oppo for example, if I turn it back on to the very same component, the color is all screwed up. Like a purple/green haze. I have to go into the menu, go to 8 video output and change the resolution to a different setting (I usually alternate between 2); then it's fine and I switch the resolution back to the regular and everything is ok. This happens everytime I switch it on. What's up with this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drsimnal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi. I just got my RS-1 hooked up last night. I was hoping it would resolve some issues I was having with the D2 (previously hooked up to a BenQ 8700). I couldn't get HDMI output consistently with the benq, but now it's fine. However, the Tosh XA-2 is a different story. I have no output via HDMI or via component thru the D2. I'm upgrading the firmware on the Tosh to the latest. I saw people here talking about 1.12, but the anthem D2 website only has 1.11 available. Can you tell me if the Tosh firmware upgrade will fix my issues?
> 
> 
> Also, here is a weird thing with my D2. When I turn it off, after say watching an SD disc on my Oppo for example, if I turn it back on to the very same component, the color is all screwed up. Like a purple/green haze. I have to go into the menu, go to 8 video output and change the resolution to a different setting (I usually alternate between 2); then it's fine and I switch the resolution back to the regular and everything is ok. This happens everytime I switch it on. What's up with this?



Contact Anthem tech support for new firmware that should work better with your XA2. I suspect you have a combination of the 1080i/1080p input bug and the general problems caused by the HDMI implementation in the XA2. Anthem will likely send you V1.11e, which appears quite stable, unless you tell them you'd like to be part of the testing of the V1.12 Beta software. I really don't know why Anthem hasn't moved the version on the web site up to V1.11e since they are shipping that now, factory installed, in new units.


While waiting for that, for your power on problem, try setting Setup / Video Output / Data Format = YCbCr 4:4:4 instead of Auto. This eliminates one more piece of the configuration handshake the Anthem needs to do with your display. The odd coloring you are seeing is symptomatic of the Anthem and the display getting confused as to which data format is being used.


Review the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post linked off the first post of this thread for other setting hints and tests.

--Bob


----------



## drsimnal

Thanks Bob. I think I may have it: I changed the HDMI repeater from no to yes, and now it seems to work (at least with the first disc of planet earth. We'll see if it stays that way. Thanks for the tip on the YCbCR. I have it on auto. Will go try it.


----------



## scottshd

hi just ordered my d2 and p5 wondering if anyone can answer some questions on hooking it up? i have a dennon 3930ci dvd player and an old mits rear projection tv can i use a hdmi cable from the 3930 to the d2 and s-vidio to the tv? and what would be the best connection for audio?thanks for any help


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is surprising.
> 
> 
> Is your HD cable feed connected to the D2 by Component or HDMI?
> 
> 
> Also is the feed to your TV from the D2 Component or HDMI?
> 
> 
> Also make sure you have Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO set for each HDMI input source. This will keep your source box from trying to query your TV through the D2 regarding copy protection (instead the D2 will take care of that itself).
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Component on both answers. My HD cable box has a DVI connector, but I don't think the box uses it. I may call and request a new box with either a functional DVI connector or an HDMI connector.


As far as my output to the projector, it is component. Mine is an early Sharp 720p projector that doesn't have DVI or HDMI connectors. I'm thinking about upgrading, but I'm not in a great hurry.


Buddy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> hi just ordered my d2 and p5 wondering if anyone can answer some questions on hooking it up? i have a dennon 3930ci dvd player and an old mits rear projection tv can i use a hdmi cable from the 3930 to the d2 and s-vidio to the tv? and what would be the best connection for audio?thanks for any help



No. You can't "down convert" HDMI to S-video. Boxes like this "up convert" simpler styles of video to the fancier styles. [HDMI copy protection gets in the way too.]


If the best your display can handle (for now) is S-video, then hook up S-video from each source. The D2 will switch your selected input to the display output but won't be able to do any significant amount of video processing on it.


Understand that S-video is always and only 480i resolution. So with such a display you can't even take advantage of the de-interlacing in the D2.


For your setup, optical or coax digital audio cable to the D2 will be your best bet (they are equivalent). This will work just fine for standard DVDs, CDs and, if you have an HDTV source, HDTV Dolby Digital broadcasts as well.

--Bob


----------



## drsimnal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drsimnal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I think I may have it: I changed the HDMI repeater from no to yes, and now it seems to work (at least with the first disc of planet earth. We'll see if it stays that way. Thanks for the tip on the YCbCR. I have it on auto. Will go try it.




As usual, I spoke way too soon. Can't get the Toshiba to show up on the screen anymore, no matter what I do (again, with component or with HDMI). I can hear it, but can't see it. And when I change the source component to the Toshiba, the screen from the pj goes dark; then when I change source to the Oppo, it remains dark (but can still hear it). If I turn off the D2 then turn it back on (while on the Oppo, which is DVD2 for me), I'll have a picture (until I try the Tosh again). If I turn the D2 on while it's set to the Tosh (DVD1 for me), I'll have no picture, no matter the source component. Weird, eh? The pj is still on, as it puts up "no HDMI input" when I turn off the D2. But I can't even see the menu; it's only visible on the D2. These things are quite mysterious to me.


Also, I couldn't get the YCbCr 4:4:4 to work. I eventually ended up putting it on RGB, and now that is working. Thoughts on that?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As I said in the earlier post, you need to get a firmware update from Anthem tech support. You are being hit with a combination of bugs (lucky you!) all of which can be fixed by installing that new software. I believe I can explain everything that's happening here, but it wouldn't help you to know the details, as this is not something you can really work around yourself by making setting changes. You'll just frustrate yourself trying.


Just describe your configuration and tell Anthem you are having problems with the XA2 on both HDMI and Component. They will email you the Anthem software update you need -- most likely V1.11e, but possibly one of the V1.12 test versions.


Believe me, it isn't worth struggling with this any more under your current Anthem software.

--Bob


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> hi just ordered my d2 and p5 wondering if anyone can answer some questions on hooking it up? i have a dennon 3930ci dvd player and an old mits rear projection tv can i use a hdmi cable from the 3930 to the d2 and s-vidio to the tv? and what would be the best connection for audio?thanks for any help



It's time to get a new TV. The new Pioneer Kuro's are suppose to be nice.


----------



## aus

Anyone getting Video to Zone two via a DVD player?

I have an OPPO 970 hooked up via HDMI and Component with RCA's for Zone 2 sound. I get the sound, but no picture. Is the Component turned off with an HDMI connection or is there something I'm missing?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone getting Video to Zone two via a DVD player?
> 
> I have an OPPO 970 hooked up via HDMI and Component with RCA's for Zone 2 sound. I get the sound, but no picture. Is the Component turned off with an HDMI connection or is there something I'm missing?



In Setup / Source Setup, specify the appropriate HDMI connector to send video to the scaler on the Scaler In line, and ALSO specify the appropriate Component connection on the Component Video In line.


Then, on the initial page of Setup / Source Setup (the one that lists all the inputs), specify Copy Main to Zone 2 ALWAYS. This is for audio.


Finally, in Setup / Video Output, specify Component 2 Out as "Main Unprocessed".


Then, whenever you select the Oppo input for the Main data path, HDMI video will be processed and sent to the Main HDMI output (the Main Component output will be dark), and Component video will be "passed through" UNprocessed to the Zone 2 Component output. Digital audio input from the Oppo on the Main path will also be processed and sent out to the Zone 2 speakers (as a stereo down-mix if necessary).


This will work with any device that allows its HDMI and Component outputs to be live at the same time. In the case of the Oppo 970, that should work if it is set to 480i or 480p video output resolution. You should be using 480i of course.


---------------------------------------------------


You can't send copy protected HDMI video input to any Component output due to the copy protection. If you want to send PROCESSED video to the Zone 2 display, then the video sent to the scaler for the Main path must also be from a Component or S-video input instead of from HDMI.


---------------------------------------------------


If you prefer to be able to separately select the Zone 2 input source instead of just having it track whatever device is selected for the Main path, then specify the HDMI and Component connections as above, but specify Setup / Source Setup / Copy Main to Zone 2 = MANUAL, and also specify Setup / Video Output / Component 2 Out = Zone 2.


In that case you will need to separately select the Oppo in the Zone 2 path to watch or hear it on the Zone 2 outputs. Press Z2 in the green buttons at the top of the remote to tell the remote you want to send commands to the Zone 2 path and then select the Oppo input using the buttons at the bottom of the remote. Don't forget to switch the remote back to controlling the Main path (green button at the top) when you are ready to do that again.


When you do that, Component video from the Oppo will go UNprocessed to the Zone 2 output. The source device selected for the Main path will be unchanged.


Analog audio from the Oppo RCA connectors will also go to the Zone 2 output. You can't get digital audio to the Zone 2 output unless the Main path is also pointing at the Oppo.


If the Main path IS also pointing at the Oppo, you can get digital Oppo audio to the Zone 2 outputs (as a stereo down-mix) by manually selecting the Copy function for just this input. You do that by pressing Z2 on the remote, selecting the Oppo input (if that's not already the Z2 input), and then pressing Copy on the remote. When you do that, processed audio from the Main path will be down-mixed to stereo as necessary and sent to the Zone 2 speaker outputs. Note, however, that if you change the Main input source device, the audio will follow that new selection.

--Bob


----------



## aus

Thanks Bob. I think I'm missing the Z2= Manual part and Component out = Z2.

Your response time just amazes me. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Component on both answers. My HD cable box has a DVI connector, but I don't think the box uses it. I may call and request a new box with either a functional DVI connector or an HDMI connector.
> 
> 
> As far as my output to the projector, it is component. Mine is an early Sharp 720p projector that doesn't have DVI or HDMI connectors. I'm thinking about upgrading, but I'm not in a great hurry.
> 
> 
> Buddy



It sounds like you have run into a variant of the newly discovered V1.12s Component video copy protection bug that KenLand described in a post just up from yours.


Contact Anthem tech support. They are going to need to get you a software fix to keep your Component video from cutting out like that from your cable box.


----------------------------------


Don't rush to swap your cable box. You can't send copy protected HDMI or DVI input to a Component output due to the copy protection anyway. If your display requires Component, cable your sources to use either Component or S-video to the Anthem.


===================================


EDITED TO ADD: From KenLand's description, the problem apparently applies only if you have set the Anthem to "pass through" Component video UNprocessed.


If so, you can work around this for now by going into Setup / Source Setup for your cable box and making sure you are sending Component to the scaler on the Scaler In line as well as specifying WHICH Component jacks you are using on the Component Video In line. This is the way you want to set up Component input for the Main path anyway. The Component output to your display would then be controlled by what you specify in Setup / Video Output.


Nevertheless you should contact Anthem so that they can put you on the list to get the bug fix once it becomes available.

--Bob


----------



## THX Mode

So I was on the final leg of the Sony 2.0 firmware upgrade - when in the end, the Anthem ended up not passing any signal from the Blu Ray player.


I verified the update went correctly as I switched the HDMI between the Anthem HDMI out with the Blu Ray going straight to the projector. Bang - there's the picture.


I had done multiple upgrades on the Sony to ver 1.5, 1.55 and 1.6 - all had no issues whatsoever with the Anthem. But 2.0 caused it to crash and burn.


The D2 is at the 'stock' 1.11 version - anyone know if the upcoming firmware alleviates this? Or better yet has anyone experienced the same issue with a Sony BDP-S1?


----------



## Kris Deering

Haven't been keeping track of this thread in a bit but I've just moved into a new house and had to build a new theater room from scratch over the last month. I just installed v1.12r beta software into my D2 but I am having an issue. If set the Frame Lock to Auto with the PS3 HDMI input the image goes black, nothing, zip, nada. If I set it back to anything else it is just fine. My projector supports 24hz just fine and if I plug in the PS3 right to the display everything works flawlessly.


Anyone had any issues with this and got it resovled? I have the newest PS3 firmware installed (v1.82 I believe). PM me if possible!


----------



## pred02

Ok, I have a quick question. I know that this is regarding the AVM20. I know this is the Statement thread, but perhaps someone can help me out.


The volume output on my AVM20 is low with the optical digital input (both regular DVD and cable box). I have to run it to -5dbs or even 0dbs to get it to be loud enough in my room. With analog input (which I tweaked to get the right calibration input from my HD-A1, I run it at -20db to -15db). Is it possible to adjust the optical input so it's a bit louder?


I calibrated at 75db using the AVM preset test tones.


It's not the amps either, my previous pre/pro (outlaw 950) I ran fine at -15db to -5db to get reference volume out of my amps.


Thanks,

George


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Haven't been keeping track of this thread in a bit but I've just moved into a new house and had to build a new theater room from scratch over the last month. I just installed v1.12r beta software into my D2 but I am having an issue. If set the Frame Lock to Auto with the PS3 HDMI input the image goes black, nothing, zip, nada. If I set it back to anything else it is just fine. My projector supports 24hz just fine and if I plug in the PS3 right to the display everything works flawlessly.
> 
> 
> Anyone had any issues with this and got it resovled? I have the newest PS3 firmware installed (v1.82 I believe). PM me if possible!



The V1.12r test software version was replaced pretty quickly with V1.12s. We had a few people here who tried V1.12r, but most went from V1.12q to V1.12s. Several problems were reported right away with V1.12r, but I don't recall a Frame Lock problem being one of them.


I also don't know if V1.12s will fix your problem as most of the people here have been trying the new feature which allows you to specify two different output styles in Setup / Video Output and then assign whichever one you want to each input. So they have separate inputs defined for a source with output of /60 or /24 depending on what they are doing.


Your best bet is to get the latest software from Nick (may be something newer than "s" by now) and try again.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pred02* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, I have a quick question. I know that this is regarding the AVM20. I know this is the Statement thread, but perhaps someone can help me out.
> 
> 
> The volume output on my AVM20 is low with the optical digital input (both regular DVD and cable box). I have to run it to -5dbs or even 0dbs to get it to be loud enough in my room. With analog input (which I tweaked to get the right calibration input from my HD-A1, I run it at -20db to -15db). Is it possible to adjust the optical input so it's a bit louder?
> 
> 
> I calibrated at 75db using the AVM preset test tones.
> 
> 
> It's not the amps either, my previous pre/pro (outlaw 950) I ran fine at -15db to -5db to get reference volume out of my amps.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> George



I don't know the answer for your AVM-20, but if it is set up like the D2 and the AVM-50, no, there is no input level adjustment for digital audio inputs.


It would probably be best to send an email to Anthem tech support and see if this is a known problem with the A1 and the AVM-20 and whether they have any workaround for you.


Also, try a different optical cable and a different AVM-20 input just to make sure that dirt, or some problem in that AVM-20 input, isn't causing your problem. [This would be pretty unlikely. Problems like this are more likely to show up as audio dropout rather than low volume.]


Some of these new format players have had problems of various sorts reported with their output levels (check the A1 threads in the HD-DVD player forum here). There may be new firmware for your A1 that might help.

--Bob


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The V1.12r test software version was replaced pretty quickly with V1.12s. We had a few people here who tried V1.12r, but most went from V1.12q to V1.12s. Several problems were reported right away with V1.12r, but I don't recall a Frame Lock problem being one of them.
> 
> 
> I also don't know if V1.12s will fix your problem as most of the people here have been trying the new feature which allows you to specify two different output styles in Setup / Video Output and then assign whichever one you want to each input. So they have separate inputs defined for a source with output of /60 or /24 depending on what they are doing.
> 
> 
> Your best bet is to get the latest software from Nick (may be something newer than "s" by now) and try again.
> 
> --Bob



The output styles option is nice but since the PS3 doesn't always output 1080p24, it becomes a hassle to have to switch back and forth when the Frame Lock worked perfectly fine before (I used it with the Sony BDP-S1 back in the day without much of a hitch). I will talk to Nick and see what he's got!


----------



## pred02




> Quote:
> Some of these new format players have had problems of various sorts reported with their output levels (check the A1 threads in the HD-DVD player forum here). There may be new firmware for your A1 that might help.
> 
> --Bob



The output levels on the analog input is loud enough after I boosted input levels in the analog-in setup portion of the AVM20 setup. It is for the digital sources (DVD plus cable box) that use the optical cable that I have to push the pre-amp to -5 dbs to get it to play loud enough (whereas on my previous pre-pro I had it set at -15dbs to get approximately the same volume level.


Perhaps it has something to do with calebration. When doing the AVM setup calibration (test tones) at what DB do you calibrate all the channels?


Thanks,

George


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pred02* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The output levels on the analog input is loud enough after I boosted input levels in the analog-in setup portion of the AVM20 setup. It is for the digital sources (DVD plus cable box) that use the optical cable that I have to push the pre-amp to -5 dbs to get it to play loud enough (whereas on my previous pre-pro I had it set at -15dbs to get approximately the same volume level.
> 
> 
> Perhaps it has something to do with calebration. When doing the AVM setup calibration (test tones) at what DB do you calibrate all the channels?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> George



There is no way to recreate the analog boost with the digital inputs. I would advise against doing that as it will *create* the very imbalance you are experiencing. It is better to have all sources come in at a similar level.


Calibrate to a 75 dB level on your sound level meter. Every speaker should reach this level at your listening location. The Radio Shack digital meter is cheap and effective for this application.


----------



## jayray

Noticed something odd. Tried playing LOTR in DTS ES 6.1 and from both my HD DVD and Bluray players, through HDMI, I could not get the Anthem AVM50 to output this audio format. I got DD EX, etc but not DTS ES 6.1. However, through my Panasonic RP82, using optical out, I got the full DTS ES 6.1 out. Is there something about the coax vs hdmi for SD discs? HD DVD AX2, ps3 br.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is no way to recreate the analog boost with the digital inputs. I would advise against doing that as it will *create* the very imbalance you are experiencing. It is better to have all sources come in at a similar level.
> 
> 
> Calibrate to a 75 dB level on your sound level meter. Every speaker should reach this level at your listening location. The Radio Shack digital meter is cheap and effective for this application.



As Gordon says, calibrate to 75dB SPL.


On the AVM-50, if you calibrate the internally generated test tones so as to produce 75dB SPL for each speaker then that will correspond to the volume produced with a -10dB setting on the Main Volume control during normal listening. That is, with that 75dB calibration setting for each speaker, setting Main Volume to -10dB during normal listening will also produce 75dB SPL for reference sound levels coming in from the content.


All of the digital sources should be producing fixed reference sound levels. That's why you shouldn't need an adjustment for your digital sources. But the analog inputs don't all have the same reference level for sounds, so an adjustment there can help balance things out.


Calibrated this way, most normal listening will be done with a Main Volume setting between -25dB and -5dB depending on how loud you like your stuff.


Background music would typically be played in the -35dB to -25dB range and below that would be considered almost muted.


I presume, but don't know for sure, that the AVM-20 calibrates its audio the same way.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Noticed something odd. Tried playing LOTR in DTS ES 6.1 and from both my HD DVD and Bluray players, through HDMI, I could not get the Anthem AVM50 to output this audio format. I got DD EX, etc but not DTS ES 6.1. However, through my Panasonic RP82, using optical out, I got the full DTS ES 6.1 out. Is there something about the coax vs hdmi for SD discs? HD DVD AX2, ps3 br.
> 
> 
> John



There should be no difference between HDMI and optical or coax digital audio for this.


You need to make sure your HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player is set to send the "bitstream" when playing your standard DVDs over HDMI. And of course you have to select the DTS ES 6.1 track for playback from the disc.


Now there are two types of DTS ES encoding out there. Each such track is automatically flagged as "matrixed" or "discrete". For "matrixed" encoding the Anthem will, by default, use NEO:6 processing to extract the rear surround info, but you can switch it to PLIIx. In addition, THX post processing can also be turned on if you like. For "discrete" encoding the Anthem will automatically switch to DTS-ES discrete decoding (including a discrete rear channel), again with or without THX post processing.


See Section 4.8.5 of the Anthem manual, and the charts that follow a few pages later.


At a guess, you have a matrixed DTS ES track and you have selected a processing Mode in the Anthem that is confusing you, or you have the HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player set to send "PCM" over HDMI for standard DVDs.

--Bob


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The output styles option is nice but since the PS3 doesn't always output 1080p24, it becomes a hassle to have to switch back and forth when the Frame Lock worked perfectly fine before (I used it with the Sony BDP-S1 back in the day without much of a hitch). I will talk to Nick and see what he's got!



Yup, Auto be broke







I mentioned this to Nick last week. It does all kinds of funny stuff with almost all my gear...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yup, Auto be broke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mentioned this to Nick last week. It does all kinds of funny stuff with almost all my gear...



Joe is it still broken in V1.12s? Or are you still on V1.12r as is Kris?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Once again you are correct. I have my XA2 set to pcm due to the problem with bass management using analog out which I don't use obviously. After the problem, I realized the Panasonic RP82 with its 480i capability, gives me the best picture through the Anthem. But this gives me other options.


thanks again,


John


ps. If Lord of the Rings sounds that good in DTS. I can't even imagine what it would sound like in PCM or TrueHD.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Once again you are correct. I have my XA2 set to pcm due to the problem with bass management using analog out which I don't use obviously. After the problem, I realized the Panasonic RP82 with its 480i capability, gives me the best picture through the Anthem. But this gives me other options.
> 
> 
> thanks again,
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> ps. If Lord of the Rings sounds that good in DTS. I can't even imagine what it would sound like in PCM or TrueHD.



John, if you want an opportunity to actually A/B TrueHD and DTS es 6.1 then I highly recommend The Untouchables on HD DVD. The visuals are exceptional but the sound was extremely well put together. If I didn't know better I would say Marc's hand was in it as the subs were very clean and tight!!!!!


Peter


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Joe is it still broken in V1.12s? Or are you still on V1.12r as is Kris?
> 
> --Bob



Bob, it is indeed 1.12s. It's funny because on mine I get dropouts at a constant rate if I put it on Auto. Except for the Blu Ray, but that's just because it never tries to engage (my only 24p source, I have a 1080i display).


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As Gordon says, calibrate to 75dB SPL.
> 
> 
> On the AVM-50, if you calibrate the internally generated test tones so as to produce 75dB SPL for each speaker then that will correspond to the volume produced with a -10dB setting on the Main Volume control during normal listening. That is, with that 75dB calibration setting for each speaker, setting Main Volume to -10dB during normal listening will also produce 75dB SPL for reference sound levels coming in from the content.



Bob, I thought that you were supposed to calibrate for reference levels (75dB) with the volume setting at -0- dB. Shouldn't the volume setting of -10dB mean that you are listening at -10dB _below_ reference sound level of 75dB? Or did I misunderstand something somewhere along the way?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, I thought that you were supposed to calibrate for reference levels (75dB) with the volume setting at -0- dB. Shouldn't the volume setting of -10dB mean that you are listening at -10dB _below_ reference sound level of 75dB? Or did I misunderstand something somewhere along the way?



Rob, on the D2 and AVM-50 the setting of the Main Volume has no bearing on the SPL of the calibration tones. The speaker level settings in that calibration menu are independent of the current Main Volume setting. The "Noise Reference Level" setting in that menu -- played out of the LF speaker -- acts as a Main Volume for the level settings to get things into the right ballpark. If you set it produce 75dB SPL, then of course the individual adjustment for the LF speaker itself will end up being 0.0dB. [Not all AVRs work this way, but this is what Anthem does and it is far and away the best way to do it.]


The SPL you set from the level settings menu corrresponds to the level you will get for reference levels of source content audio when the Main Volume is set to -10dB.


If you calibrate to 75dB SPL, then when you play back your movies at -10dB Main Volume you will be hearing a 75dB calibrated movie mix. If you want to hear what the 85dB calibrated movie mix sounds like -- i.e., what's used in commercial movie theaters -- just crank the Main Volume up to 0dB during playback. Odds are you'll want to turn it back down after a bit.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Thanks Bob. So, do you recommend using the D2's internal calibration tones over using DVE, or are you going to get pretty much similar results?


Edit: I assume when using DVE, the volume setting will make a difference, so you would calibrate to a -0- dB volume setting?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. So, do you recommend using the D2's internal calibration tones over using DVE, or are you going to get pretty much similar results?
> 
> 
> Edit: I assume when using DVE, the volume setting will make a difference, so you would calibrate to a -0- dB volume setting?



I strongly recommend you set things up using the D2's internal test tones. They are very accurate. And of course they are also independent of any audio processing mode you might have turned on.


If you want to make adjustments while playing from any source or while using any given audio mode, use the "temporary" adjustments accessible from the remote control.

--Bob


----------



## KenLand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It sounds like you have run into a variant of the newly discovered V1.12s Component video copy protection bug that KenLand described in a post just up from yours.
> 
> 
> Contact Anthem tech support. They are going to need to get you a software fix to keep your Component video from cutting out like that from your cable box.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> Don't rush to swap your cable box. You can't send copy protected HDMI or DVI input to a Component output due to the copy protection anyway. If your display requires Component, cable your sources to use either Component or S-video to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> ===================================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: From KenLand's description, the problem apparently applies only if you have set the Anthem to "pass through" Component video UNprocessed.
> 
> 
> If so, you can work around this for now by going into Setup / Source Setup for your cable box and making sure you are sending Component to the scaler on the Scaler In line as well as specifying WHICH Component jacks you are using on the Component Video In line. This is the way you want to set up Component input for the Main path anyway. The Component output to your display would then be controlled by what you specify in Setup / Video Output.
> 
> 
> Nevertheless you should contact Anthem so that they can put you on the list to get the bug fix once it becomes available.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Are you saying my no-passthru bug is not isolated to my D1-HD?

I upgraded from 1.11 today to 1.12s and the same behavior. Basically, I'm getting DRM Blackout even on Component2 output in PASSTHRU mode!


The only way to get component passthru is to select Scaler In: Comp#. Then it will follow Processed/Passthru, but if Scaler in is HDMI then nothing/nada regardless of Processede/Passthru setting.


I'm thinking it's just my box, but I'd love to know if there are others.


Thanks,

Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Are you saying my no-passthru bug is not isolated to my D1-HD?
> 
> I upgraded from 1.11 today to 1.12s and the same behavior. Basically, I'm getting DRM Blackout even on Component2 output in PASSTHRU mode!
> 
> 
> The only way to get component passthru is to select Scaler In: Comp#. Then it will follow Processed/Passthru, but if Scaler in is HDMI then nothing/nada regardless of Processede/Passthru setting.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking it's just my box, but I'd love to know if there are others.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



Yes. Check out BCLJONES at the bottom of the page two pages up and then his reply to my question about whether he was using Component.


His problem and yours sound related to me.

--Bob


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It sounds like you have run into a variant of the newly discovered V1.12s Component video copy protection bug that KenLand described in a post just up from yours.
> 
> 
> Contact Anthem tech support. They are going to need to get you a software fix to keep your Component video from cutting out like that from your cable box.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> Don't rush to swap your cable box. You can't send copy protected HDMI or DVI input to a Component output due to the copy protection anyway. If your display requires Component, cable your sources to use either Component or S-video to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> ===================================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: From KenLand's description, the problem apparently applies only if you have set the Anthem to "pass through" Component video UNprocessed.
> 
> 
> If so, you can work around this for now by going into Setup / Source Setup for your cable box and making sure you are sending Component to the scaler on the Scaler In line as well as specifying WHICH Component jacks you are using on the Component Video In line. This is the way you want to set up Component input for the Main path anyway. The Component output to your display would then be controlled by what you specify in Setup / Video Output.
> 
> 
> Nevertheless you should contact Anthem so that they can put you on the list to get the bug fix once it becomes available.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I'm not sure that I have the bug you describe or not. I've just viewed each channel that I can get in HD and I didn't get any Macrovision Copy Protection status messages on the D2's display. Each channel came in it's native resolution from the HD cable box. The other night, I found one channel that was triggering the Macrovision Copy Protection. Does this not simply mean that the HD component output from the cable box is somehow being limited? Or is that not possible over a component connection.


I understand your comment about not getting a newer cable box. I was assuming that I could choose between the DVI and component connections, but that might not be possible.


Buddy


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I strongly recommend you set things up using the D2's internal test tones. They are very accurate. And of course they are also independent of any audio processing mode you might have turned on.
> 
> 
> If you want to make adjustments while playing from any source or while using any given audio mode, use the "temporary" adjustments accessible from the remote control.
> 
> --Bob




Hello All...



About the volume level setup with D2 and AVM 50...


You are supposed to set the volume to +3db on Levels page on Anthem for test REF test tone level..


Once you do this, you will see THX appear beside the +3db..


From this setting, set all levels for each channel to 75db with C weight, and Slow responce on meter...


The reason for the +3db for Reference as opposed to 0 db, is that Dolby labs last year changed what the reference level should be..


They found 0db was too lound for average home theaters.. So setting up all channels to 75db , at a reference level of +3db, will give you lower volume levels when playing your movie at REF 0db..


Nick last year confimed this to me, as I noticed that the THX was not beside the 0db when setting levels,, but beside the +3db...


Oh welll...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello All...
> 
> 
> 
> About the volume level setup with D2 and AVM 50...
> 
> 
> You are supposed to set the volume to +3db on Levels page on Anthem for test REF test tone level..
> 
> 
> Once you do this, you will see THX appear beside the +3db..
> 
> 
> From this setting, set all levels for each channel to 75db with C weight, and Slow responce on meter...
> 
> 
> The reason for the +3db for Reference as opposed to 0 db, is that Dolby labs last year changed what the reference level should be..
> 
> 
> They found 0db was too lound for average home theaters.. So setting up all channels to 75db , at a reference level of +3db, will give you lower volume levels when playing your movie at REF 0db..
> 
> 
> Nick last year confimed this to me, as I noticed that the THX was not beside the 0db when setting levels,, but beside the +3db...
> 
> 
> Oh welll...



There's something else going on here. This makes no sense.


If you raise the overall Levels setting in that menu and then lower the individual settings for each speaker to compensate (and thus still produce) 75dB SPL from each speaker, the net result is the same as running the overall Level at 0 and raising each of the speaker's individual controls 3dB.


My guess would be that THX wants the equipment manufacturer to label as "THX" each control setting used to pass the THX requirements tests or to specify them in the literature.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There's something else going on here. This makes no sense.
> 
> 
> If you raise the overall Levels setting in that menu and then lower the individual settings for each speaker to compensate (and thus still produce) 75dB SPL from each speaker, the net result is the same as running the overall Level at 0 and raising each of the speaker's individual controls 3dB.
> 
> 
> My guess would be that THX wants the equipment manufacturer to label as "THX" each control setting used to pass the THX requirements tests or to specify them in the literature.
> 
> --Bob



I thought it was strange too..










Ya, so if you want tru 0db reference, you have to play the movie at +3db...


Not sure why THX or who ever even thought of the +3db setting...


Weird....


----------



## banjomamo

Kenland can you recommend a dealer in or around Houston for the D2?


Has anyone hooked an AppleTV up to a D2 yet? Any thoughts?


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *banjomamo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kenland can you recommend a dealer in or around Houston for the D2?
> 
> 
> Has anyone hooked an AppleTV up to a D2 yet? Any thoughts?



Yes, I have one, it works great. Here's some advice. Don't use HDMI at all from the AppleTV to the D2. It is prone to problems. Use Component video and Optical digital for audio. The native rate of an AppleTV is 720p, so set the output in the AppleTV to 720p, and let the D2 do the scaling to whatever your TV wants normally.


Pictures and video's in particular look amazing this way, and friends love to virtually "flip" through my CD collection from the living room (aka coverflow on the AppleTV for streaming of my mp3 collection).


For what it's worth, I have several devices now that can all stream some combination of pictures, videos, and music (XBOX360, Pioneer 94HD, Olive Symphony). But everyone, including myself, gravitates toward the AppleTV for these functions. The interface is the cleanest, and the quality of presentation and usability is the best. Oh, hey they've got YouTube now, with the 1.1 release that just came out!


For 300 bucks, I'm not sure anything can beat it.


Hope this helps,

Brian


----------



## jayray

Peter,


I must have read your mind. Just picked up The Untouchables yesterday but haven't tried it out yet. May not until I get back from my Alaskan cruise. I will miss checking this thread out but I hear the ship has an internet cafe










John


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *banjomamo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kenland can you recommend a dealer in or around Houston for the D2?



I've shopped 3 dealers in the Houston area. I'm ordering mine this weekend. If you PM me I'll let you know who gave me the best price. Carl.


----------



## KenLand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *banjomamo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kenland can you recommend a dealer in or around Houston for the D2?
> 
> 
> ...



I can definitely recommend Sound World over on Bellaire just inside the Beltway.


Viet Tran and John Dixon are first rate guys that love this stuff.


I'd call them even if cecaa850 tells you a lower price somewhere else. They probably are the lowest, but if not they may match or beat a competing offer.


The trouble Viet goes to to ensure no damage in shipping is worth the call alone.


I originally got my D1 from them at an awesome price, but I handled my D2 upgrade myself and I'm sorry I didn't let them handle it. (got busted in shipping and had to be re-shipped)


Ken


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In Setup / Source Setup, specify the appropriate HDMI connector to send video to the scaler on the Scaler In line, and ALSO specify the appropriate Component connection on the Component Video In line.
> 
> 
> Then, on the initial page of Setup / Source Setup (the one that lists all the inputs), specify Copy Main to Zone 2 ALWAYS. This is for audio.
> 
> 
> Finally, in Setup / Video Output, specify Component 2 Out as "Main Unprocessed".
> 
> 
> Then, whenever you select the Oppo input for the Main data path, HDMI video will be processed and sent to the Main HDMI output (the Main Component output will be dark), and Component video will be "passed through" UNprocessed to the Zone 2 Component output. Digital audio input from the Oppo on the Main path will also be processed and sent out to the Zone 2 speakers (as a stereo down-mix if necessary).
> 
> 
> This will work with any device that allows its HDMI and Component outputs to be live at the same time. In the case of the Oppo 970, that should work if it is set to 480i or 480p video output resolution. You should be using 480i of course.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> You can't send copy protected HDMI video input to any Component output due to the copy protection. If you want to send PROCESSED video to the Zone 2 display, then the video sent to the scaler for the Main path must also be from a Component or S-video input instead of from HDMI.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you prefer to be able to separately select the Zone 2 input source instead of just having it track whatever device is selected for the Main path, then specify the HDMI and Component connections as above, but specify Setup / Source Setup / Copy Main to Zone 2 = MANUAL, and also specify Setup / Video Output / Component 2 Out = Zone 2.
> 
> 
> In that case you will need to separately select the Oppo in the Zone 2 path to watch or hear it on the Zone 2 outputs. Press Z2 in the green buttons at the top of the remote to tell the remote you want to send commands to the Zone 2 path and then select the Oppo input using the buttons at the bottom of the remote. Don't forget to switch the remote back to controlling the Main path (green button at the top) when you are ready to do that again.
> 
> 
> When you do that, Component video from the Oppo will go UNprocessed to the Zone 2 output. The source device selected for the Main path will be unchanged.
> 
> 
> Analog audio from the Oppo RCA connectors will also go to the Zone 2 output. You can't get digital audio to the Zone 2 output unless the Main path is also pointing at the Oppo.
> 
> 
> If the Main path IS also pointing at the Oppo, you can get digital Oppo audio to the Zone 2 outputs (as a stereo down-mix) by manually selecting the Copy function for just this input. You do that by pressing Z2 on the remote, selecting the Oppo input (if that's not already the Z2 input), and then pressing Copy on the remote. When you do that, processed audio from the Main path will be down-mixed to stereo as necessary and sent to the Zone 2 speaker outputs. Note, however, that if you change the Main input source device, the audio will follow that new selection.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I actually had the setting right and still get no picture, only sound. Any other ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, I actually had the setting right and still get no picture, only sound. Any other ideas?



OK let's start with the basics.


What version of Anthem software are you running?


What do you have the Oppo set to produce for video output resolution.


Verify that the Component output of your Oppo is working the way you think it should be by connecting the Zone 2 TV to it directly while still playing it's HDMI output through the Anthem.


If that works, make sure you connect the Zone 2 TV back to the Anthem's ZONE 2 Component output (since the Main Component output will be blacked out when the Main video input is HDMI). Connect the Oppo's Component output back to the appropriate Anthem Component input.


Still no Component video? See if you can get Component to pass through the Anthem in this configuration if you disconnect the HDMI cable from the back of the Oppo.


Let's start with that and see what you find out.

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc

OK. Eureka. Finally received and hooked up my RS-1. Rob, how many months did you beat me on that one???


So I finally could see the D2 really in action last night. Truly amazing piece of equipment. I knew the sound rivaled my old Proceed PAV/PDSD, but the video capabilities are phenomenal.































Someone give me some mascots!!!!!!!!


I am having some difficulty getting 1080p/24 to work for both my Samsung BD-P1200 Blu-Ray player and the Anthem.


When I set the Anthem to 1080p/24, I get a message that says that the resolution/settings are out of range. Is that message from the Anthem or the RS-1 (which I thought was able to support 1080p/24.)


How do I change settings on the Anthem to make this work? I've been using 1080p/60 in the mean time. I'm on 1.11e.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK. Eureka. Finally received and hooked up my RS-1. Rob, how many months did you beat me on that one???
> 
> 
> So I finally could see the D2 really in action last night. Truly amazing piece of equipment. I knew the sound rivaled my old Proceed PAV/PDSD, but the video capabilities are phenomenal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone give me some mascots!!!!!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Manually Selecting Video Source Adjustment / Picture / Input Color Space*


For the first time, yesterday, I ran into a case where it was useful to be able to manually select the Input Color Space instead of just letting it be switched automatically by the D2.


The VS channel on my Comcast feed was broadcasting stuff from the Tour de France. VS is an HD channel, meaning they were sending out a 1080i signal, but the stuff they were rebroadcasting was actually an SD program -- pillar boxed in the middle of the HD feed.


While watching this it occurred to me that the grass in the countryside was looking kind of dull. So I went into Video Source Adjust and switched the Input Color Space from Auto YCbCr to SDTV YCbCr. Sure enough, that popped the greens right back to where they should be! It was still an SDTV program of course (not quite as color rich as HDTV) but the colors looked more natural.


As described in the Color Space notes linked off the first post of this thread, the math for converting between color formats is different for HDTV and SDTV, and the most obvious symptom of getting it wrong is that greens are either depressed or over-emphasized by 15% (depending on which way you get it wrong). Normally the correct thing for the D2 to do is to select which math to use based on the resolution of the incoming signal. And that's just what the Auto YCbCr setting does (the factory default).


When an SDTV program is rebroadcast in an HDTV frame, or when an upscaling DVD player scales a standard DVD up to 720p or 1080i, the thing that SHOULD happen is that the HDTV station or the upscaling DVD player converts the Color Space of the original SD content to the HDTV Color Space to match the output resolution. And that means the TV, or in our case the D2, sees the image in the correct (HDTV) Color Space as determined by the input resolution. This is trivial to do and has essentially no risk of screwing up the image. However sometimes you run into a case where that hasn't happened.


And this VS rebroadcast of the Tour was just such a case.


And this is why the D2 offers the option of forcing a particular setting instead of depending upon Auto selection based on the input resolution.


NOTE: All of the above only applies if your source is sending YCbCr Data Format to the D2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK. Eureka. Finally received and hooked up my RS-1. Rob, how many months did you beat me on that one???
> 
> 
> So I finally could see the D2 really in action last night. Truly amazing piece of equipment. I knew the sound rivaled my old Proceed PAV/PDSD, but the video capabilities are phenomenal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone give me some mascots!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> I am having some difficulty getting 1080p/24 to work for both my Samsung BD-P1200 Blu-Ray player and the Anthem.
> 
> 
> When I set the Anthem to 1080p/24, I get a message that says that the resolution/settings are out of range. Is that message from the Anthem or the RS-1 (which I thought was able to support 1080p/24.)
> 
> 
> How do I change settings on the Anthem to make this work? I've been using 1080p/60 in the mean time. I'm on 1.11e.



The RS-1 is sensitive to a particular problem the V1.11 versions of the software have with 1080p/24.


You should talk to Anthem about getting one of the V1.12 Beta "test" versions such as V1.12s. Please note that there are still some problems in that new "test" software, so you should tell Anthem what your complete configuration is of sources and display and take their advice if they suggest you wait for the next version.


>>>


----------



## zzzzdoc

Another quick question. Should I set my STB to output 720p or 1080i (it's a first generation Zenith DTV-1080, so it doesn't have native mode. I need to switch select on the back, not on a remote). I'll be having the D2 scale it to 1080p.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The RS-1 is sensitive to a particular problem the V1.11 versions of the software have with 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> You should talk to Anthem about getting one of the V1.12 Beta "test" versions such as V1.12s. Please note that there are still some problems in that new "test" software, so you should tell Anthem what your complete configuration is of sources and display and take their advice if they suggest you wait for the next version.
> 
> 
> >>>


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Another quick question. Should I set my STB to output 720p or 1080i (it's a first generation Zenith DTV-1080, so it doesn't have native mode. I need to switch select on the back, not on a remote). I'll be having the D2 scale it to 1080p.



If you can only get the STB to output one resolution, use 1080i. That will give you best viewing of 1080i HDTV programs (which means most HDTV programs) at the expense of 720p HDTV programs and all SDTV programs.


The STB will scale and then interlace any 720p HDTV programs to convert 720p to 1080i. The interlacing is trivial but the box probably won't do a great job of the scaling. However odds are you won't really notice it.


But SDTV programs have to be de-interlaced from 480i to 480p, scaled to 1080p, and then re-interlaced to 1080i by the STB, and the odds are it will do a pretty crappy job of that compared to the D2.


So if your STB has an option to send SDTV programs at 480i while automatically still sending HDTV programs at 1080i that's the way to do it.


Or get a different STB from your service provider which has true "native" pass through of the channel's resolution.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Nice pyramid too.
> 
> 
> I'll call Nick as soon as I can find some free time.



Pyramid? It's theater seating! Pass the popcorn. (grin!)

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK. Eureka. Finally received and hooked up my RS-1. Rob, how many months did you beat me on that one???
> 
> 
> So I finally could see the D2 really in action last night. Truly amazing piece of equipment. I knew the sound rivaled my old Proceed PAV/PDSD, but the video capabilities are phenomenal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone give me some mascots!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> I am having some difficulty getting 1080p/24 to work for both my Samsung BD-P1200 Blu-Ray player and the Anthem.
> 
> 
> When I set the Anthem to 1080p/24, I get a message that says that the resolution/settings are out of range. Is that message from the Anthem or the RS-1 (which I thought was able to support 1080p/24.)
> 
> 
> How do I change settings on the Anthem to make this work? I've been using 1080p/60 in the mean time. I'm on 1.11e.



Congrats on finally getting the RS1! The wait must have been painful.


Re the 1080p/24 and the RS1 message saying it is out of range, does this also happen when sending 1080p/60? If so, I would be suspicious of a bad cable, as I had the same problem (although 1080p/24 actually worked, 1080p/60 did not).


Oh, and another milestone in this thread: 8000 posts!


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Congrats on finally getting the RS1! The wait must have been painful.
> 
> 
> Re the 1080p/24 and the RS1 message saying it is out of range, does this also happen when sending 1080p/60? If so, I would be suspicious of a bad cable, as I had the same problem (although 1080p/24 actually worked, 1080p/60 did not).
> 
> 
> Oh, and another milestone in this thread: 8000 posts!



1080p/60 works just fine.


----------



## jluloff

Was wondering if any of the folks here could help me out understanding these settings in regards to the best options/ways to set the speaker (large/small) or select advanced and chose a Xover for each speaker. There is also a BYPASS LFE XOVER selection which I am not sure if it should be 'Yes' or 'No'. I have been trying to read alot about bass management and still having a hard time understanding everytthing. I don't remember all the setting currently done but the folks who setup my system but if anyone can share there settings or some general practices it would be great.



I am using AVM-50 with Paradigm studio 100's, CCF-690 center, ADP-590 Surrounds, 2 In-ceiling SA-15R-30 and Servo-15 Sub.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Was wondering if any of the folks here could help me out understanding these settings in regards to the best options/ways to set the speaker (large/small) or select advanced and chose a Xover for each speaker. There is also a BYPASS LFE XOVER selection which I am not sure if it should be 'Yes' or 'No'. I have been trying to read alot about bass management and still having a hard time understanding everytthing. I don't remember all the setting currently done but the folks who setup my system but if anyone can share there settings or some general practices it would be great.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using AVM-50 with Paradigm studio 100's, CCF-690 center, ADP-590 Surrounds, 2 In-ceiling SA-15R-30 and Servo-15 Sub.



There's a post linked off the first post of this thread that discusses my experience setting up a Velodyne DD-15 sub with the D2. It provides some explanation of the various D2 settings. Check that out, and then ask again if that hasn't already answered your questions.


Setting up to get the best bass requires quite a bit of patience and willingness to experiment, but the results are definitely worth it!

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Was wondering if any of the folks here could help me out understanding these settings in regards to the best options/ways to set the speaker (large/small) or select advanced and chose a Xover for each speaker. There is also a BYPASS LFE XOVER selection which I am not sure if it should be 'Yes' or 'No'. I have been trying to read alot about bass management and still having a hard time understanding everytthing. I don't remember all the setting currently done but the folks who setup my system but if anyone can share there settings or some general practices it would be great.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using AVM-50 with Paradigm studio 100's, CCF-690 center, ADP-590 Surrounds, 2 In-ceiling SA-15R-30 and Servo-15 Sub.



I have the same pre/pro and sub. I set my PSB speakers all to small and set Xover to 80. With this setting I get phenomenal LFE and great surround. Doesn't mean with tweaking it couldn't get better. I don't use advanced settings, yet.

John


----------



## jluloff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There's a post linked off the first post of this thread that discusses my experience setting up a Velodyne DD-15 sub with the D2. It provides some explanation of the various D2 settings. Check that out, and then ask again if that hasn't already answered your questions.
> 
> 
> Setting up to get the best bass requires quite a bit of patience and willingness to experiment, but the results are definitely worth it!
> 
> --Bob





I did read that already but I guess I will just experiment like you said.


Can I save the setting for my current Cinema Speaker Config using the Save Installer Settings and then go play with the settings and still get back to those settings I have now?



Jayray - I was thinking of doing that to see how that is but was just trying to understand the advanced settings. I believe most of the Xovers are sets around 40 (i am work and dont remember exactly) and thinking that could be to low. This is my first home theater so it's all so new to me. The good things is its sounds good but as always I need to tinker thinking it could be better.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did read that already but I guess I will just experiment like you said.
> 
> 
> Can I save the setting for my current Cinema Speaker Config using the Save Installer Settings and then go play with the settings and still get back to those settings I have now?
> 
> 
> 
> Jayray - I was thinking of doing that to see how that is but was just trying to understand the advanced settings. I believe most of the Xovers are sets around 40 (i am work and dont remember exactly) and thinking that could be to low. This is my first home theater so it's all so new to me. The good things is its sounds good but as always I need to tinker thinking it could be better.



Yes. The Save User Settings and Save Installer Settings are two separate memories that you can use to save things while experimenting. And of course any changes you make since you last saved those makes for a third set of settings.


A crossover of 40 is pretty low if you have a decent sub.


The basic rule of thumb is that you want to set the crossover so that the sub can handle up to twice that frequency and the mains can handle down to half that frequency. So a crossover of 40 would require the mains to be good down to 20 and the sub to be good up to 80 without distortion.


Now even if your mains CAN go down that low, you may be happier letting your sub do the work down there ANYWAY since that's what it is specialized for. On the other hand, letting the mains take some of the load means you have multiple bass sources in the room which can help cure room resonances.


The LFE Bypass option is specifically for people who want to do low crossovers. It lets LFE channel stuff go to the subwoofer anyway, without regard to the crossover. LFE naturally rolls off around 125 so that works for most subs even if you have set the crossover low to let the mains handle main channel bass most of the way down. If your crossover is above, say 65, then you don't need LFE Bypass and should probably turn it off (which is also the factory default).


The THX "standard" crossover is 80 (mains good down to 40 and sub good up to 160) and that's a pretty good starting point for most folks.


You don't want to set the crossover much higher than 80 because it will make the subwoofer become "localizeable" -- you'll know some sound is coming from the sub rather than the sub filling the room with bass in a non-directional manner.


The "Advanced" settings are very useful. Among other things you can set the crossovers separately so that there is either a gap or an overlap of frequencies between the mains and the sub.


Now the crossover is not a hard cutoff either way, so there is normally overlap anyway above and below the crossover (which is why you want to set the crossover so that the sub still is able to handle frequencies above it and the mains still are able to handle frequencies below it). But putting in a deliberate gap or overlap -- say 10 or 15 Hz -- could help tame room issues right around the crossover frequency. Keep in mind that the Phase and Polarity settings also have a big effect near the crossover frequency. They refer to how the motions of the subwoofer's cone match up with the motions of the main speakers near those fequencies. Get it wrong and the two cancel out resulting in wimpy bass near the crossover.


The trick is to take your time, do some critical listening, set things aside, and do it again after you've had a chance to relax. As you get more used to hearing what the different settings will do for you, you will hone in on a set of settings that gives satisfying bass without being boomy.


And don't forget that the Room Resonance Filter menu includes test tones from the crossover down to very low frequency. You can use these with your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter to map out peaks and dips in your room's bass response. These can be tamed with room treatment or by shifting the subwoofer positioning a bit. The Room Resonance Filter itself can be used to knock down the biggest room resonance (unwanted response peak) below the crossover.


Note that bass works by "pressurizing" the room. That means any change in the room which affects the volume of air that needs to be pressurized will alter the room's bass response. Things like opening a door, or even a closet, will very likely change the bass response in ways that are easily measured if not perhaps easily heard. So do your bass setup in the same room configuration you intend to use for critical listening.


And if your sub is not quite big enough to pressurize the room adequately by itself, and your mains can go down low, this may be reason to set a lower crossover to let the mains help out. The critcal frequencies for most bass are in the 35 to 80 Hz range. But true thuds are down below that and your mains aren't going to go that low. So if your room is big and your sub is small you might want to consider adding a second sub or switching to a bigger sub.

--Bob


----------



## jluloff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes. The Save User Settings and Save Installer Settings are two separate memories that you can use to save things while experimenting. And of course any changes you make since you last saved those makes for a third set of settings.
> 
> 
> A crossover of 40 is pretty low if you have a decent sub.
> 
> 
> The basic rule of thumb is that you want to set the crossover so that the sub can handle up to twice that frequency and the mains can handle down to half that frequency. So a crossover of 40 would require the mains to be good down to 20 and the sub to be good up to 80.
> 
> 
> Now even if your mains CAN go down that low, you may be happier letting your sub do the work down there ANYWAY since that's what it is specialized for. On the other hand, letting the mains take some of the load means you have multiple bass sources in the room which can help cure room resonances.
> 
> 
> The LFE Bypass option is specifically for people who want to do low crossovers. It lets LFE channel stuff go to the subwoofer anyway, without regard to the crossover. LFE naturally rolls off around 125 so that works for most subs even if you have set the crossover low to let the mains handle main channel bass most of the way down. If your crossover is above, say 65, then you don't need LFE Bypass and should probably turn it off (which is also the factory default).
> 
> 
> The THX "standard" crossover is 80 (mains good down to 40 and sub good up to 160) and that's a pretty good starting point for most folks.
> 
> 
> You don't want to set the crossover much higher than 80 because it will make the subwoofer become "localizeable" -- you'll know some sound is coming from the sub rather than the sub filling the room with bass in a non-directional manner.
> 
> 
> The "Advanced" settings are very useful. Among other things you can set the crossovers separately so that there is either a gap or an overlap of frequencies between the mains and the sub.
> 
> 
> Now the crossover is not a hard cutoff either way, so there is normally overlap anyway above and below the crossover (which is why you want to set the crossover so that the sub still is able to handle frequencies above it and the mains still are able to handle frequencies below it). But putting in a deliberate gap or overlap -- say 10 of 15 Hz -- could help tame room issues right around the crossover frequency.
> 
> 
> The trick is to take your time, do some critical listening, set things aside, and do it again after you've had a chance to relax. As you get more used to hearing what the different settings will do for you, you will hone in on a set of settings that gives satisfying bass without being boomy.
> 
> 
> And don't forget that the Room Resonance Filter menu includes test tones from the crossover down to very low frequency. You can use these with your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter to map out peaks and dips in your room's bass response.
> 
> 
> Note that bass works by "pressurizing" the room. That means any change in the room which affects the volume of air that needs to be pressurized will alter the room's bass response. Things like opening a door, or even a closet, will very likely change the bass response in ways that are easily measured if not perhaps easily heard. So do your bass setup in the same room configuration you intend to use for critical listening.
> 
> 
> And if your sub is not quite big enough to pressurize the room adequately by itself, and your mains can go down low, this may be reason to set a lower crossover to let the mains help out. The critcal frequencies for most bass are in the 35 to 80 Hz range. But true thuds are down below that and your mains aren't going to go that low. So if your room is big and your sub is small you might want to consider adding a second sub or switching to a bigger sub.
> 
> --Bob




As always Bob thanks for your input!!


Looks like I got a new pet project or just another thing for my wife to yell at me for spending too much time in the basement


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As always Bob thanks for your input!!
> 
> 
> Looks like I got a new pet project or just another thing for my wife to yell at me for spending too much time in the basement



I just edited that post to clarify a few more things. So give it another look.

--Bob


----------



## ASW

I have basically the same problem with a Tivo S-3 as KenLand describes. Everything Plays fine via HDMI in Zone 1, but on some SD pay stations, I am unable to watch in zone 2 (component pass-through) or zone 3 (composite pass-through), unless I also turn Zone 1 on. I did speak to Nick about this issue. It is not clear whether this problem is a D2 issue or a Tivo issue (it could be that the Tivo turns off its component and composite outputs for macrovision protected content when it sees an HDMI cable). I am hoping Anthem can make this work (e.g., by letting the HDMI from the Tivo handshake with Zone 1, even if Zone 1 is not on).


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am having some difficulty getting 1080p/24 to work for both my Samsung BD-P1200 Blu-Ray player and the Anthem.
> 
> 
> When I set the Anthem to 1080p/24, I get a message that says that the resolution/settings are out of range. Is that message from the Anthem or the RS-1 (which I thought was able to support 1080p/24.)
> 
> 
> How do I change settings on the Anthem to make this work? I've been using 1080p/60 in the mean time. I'm on 1.11e.



24P works OK with the 1.11e, but you must set the frame lock to auto and leave your output set to 1080p/60. You should also be outputting source direct from the DVD player. Bob is correct about the newer firmware working better.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have basically the same problem with a Tivo S-3. Plays fine via HDMI, but on some SD pay stations, I am unable to watch in zone 2 (component pass-through) or zone 3 (composite), unless I also turn Zone 1 on. I did speak to Nick about this issue. Not clear whether it is a D2 issue or a Tivo issue (it could be that the Tivo turns off the component and composite outputs for macrovision protected content when it sees an HDMI cable). I am hoping Anthem can make this work (e.g., by letting the HDMI from the Tivo handshake with Zone 1 even if Zone 1 is not on).



It is easy to test if the Tivo is doing this to you. Just plug the Component wires for your Zone 2 TV directly into the Tivo's Component output, while still running HDMI from the Tivo to the D2 for the Main path.


Then see if you can get Component out of the Tivo when you want to.


There ARE some boxes out there that blank out their Component outputs if they discover an HDMI cable is plugged in so that COULD be the problem. In some cases it may be dependent upon whether the other end of the HDMI cable (the D2 in your case) is live at the moment (i.e., that HDMI input is selected), in other cases, just having the HDMI cable physically plugged in is enough to trigger this. Do this test and you'll know for sure where the problem lies.

--Bob


----------



## Ian_Currie

Anyone using 1.12s experiencing dropped frames? I'm no longer using the 24fps output as it doesn't seem stable enough (nor can I see any noticible improvement in judder when I do use it), but even with 1080p60 I experience what looks like weird 'edits' that I *think* are dropped frames. This is both from XA2 and PS3 as sources. I have a JVC RS1 projector.


Every once in a while I get a blank screen followed by an solid color (usually green) flash on screen followed by blankness, followed by the image. Happens a lot when chapter skipping.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 24P works OK with the 1.11e, but you must set the frame lock to auto and leave your output set to 1080p/60. You should also be outputting source direct from the DVD player. Bob is correct about the newer firmware working better.



My understanding was that RS-1 projector owners (in particular) were getting periodic stuttering of the image with the V1.11 software versions even when using Frame Lock to track the input video frame rate and transfer it to the output. If I'm remembering that correctly, then it's still probably better for him to move to V1.12s (or later) rather than futzing with this.

--Bob


----------



## ASW

Thanks - I will get around to doing this test, but pullling out my rack and rewiring is a bit of a pain (and time-consuming).


Note, the box does not always blank out the analog outputs (and it isn't really blanked, I get a Tivo generated message about not being able to watch HDMI content). I only have a problem on certain SD pay stations (I can watch HD paystations in Zones 2 and 3 with no problem). Also, all is fine in all zones as long as I turn on Zone 1.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks - I will get around to doing this test, but pullling out my rack and rewiring is a bit of a pain (and time-consuming).
> 
> 
> Note, the box does not always blank out the analog outputs (and it isn't really blanked, I get a Tivo generated message about not being able to watch HDMI content). I only have a problem on certain SD pay stations (I can watch HD paystations in Zones 2 and 3 with no problem). Also, all is fine in all zones as long as I turn on Zone 1.



If the Tivo is generating the message then it must be enforcing this for its own reasons. Try turning on Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO. That may make the Tivo happier when your Main TV is off (although you may still have to power the Main path of the D2 for this to work).


The D2 also has a message it generates when it detects Macrovision protected Component input and thus has to constrain the Component output to 480i or 480p. But that shouldn't be happening on the Zone 2 output.

--Bob


----------



## ASW

I have HDMI repeater set to no. In my case, the main zone TV can be off, but main zone power has to be on. Very strange behavior. Hopefully, Anthem can figure out a way to make the Tivo talk to Zone 1 and get "happier" in Zones 2 and 3, even if Zone 1 is off. Nick said he would talk to the programmers at Anthem about it.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My understanding was that RS-1 projector owners (in particular) were getting periodic stuttering of the image with the V1.11 software versions even when using Frame Lock to track the input video frame rate and transfer it to the output. If I'm remembering that correctly, then it's still probably better for him to move to V1.12s (or later) rather than futzing with this.
> 
> --Bob



Personally, I never saw any stuttering with the 1.11e and frame lock on auto with my BDP HD1. The frame lock on auto was a pain to use as it would take a while to lock in. Once the movie started everything was fine.


I don't have any major problems with outputting 24p using the 1.12s, but anytime the source is interrupted(when starting a movie or chapter skip etc.) the signal has to be reacquired.


On sources other than Blu ray(source direct) for 24p playback, syncronization is lost fairly regularly.


----------



## KenLand

Just heard back from Anthem.


Passthru is indeed NOT Passthru right now. They will make it so in the next release, but no date given.


Nick's suggested workaround:


- set component 2 out to Zone 2

- at the bottom of menu 6 set Zone 2 copy main to Always instead of Manual.

- turn on Zone 2 whenever you want to use the TV.



I don't know. For me I think I might just use the Component Scaler Input for now so that my family can use the system. I can always optimize the settings for particular movie or something when I'm there.


Ken


----------



## ASW

I got the same message from Nick:


"Fix is slated for next time motherboard code changes, so that probably means not v1.20 release but v1.21... anyone's guess when but likely not in distant future.


For now a workaround is:


- set component 2 out to Zone 2

- at the bottom of menu 6 set Zone 2 copy main to Always instead of Manual.

- turn on Zone 2 whenever you want to use the TV."


I am not quite sure what I am going to do yet, but it is good to see Anthem has the issue on their radar.


----------



## Joe C5

I have a question about the displays. Is there a way to get both the data rate and the number of bits? I just got a new DVDA and was playing it through the Oppo, and it showed 48 KHz PCM. It was supposed to be 96 KHz (probably something I have set wrong on the Oppo?). So, I throw it in the PS3 and the D2 shows 96 KHz as expected. However, now I am curious as to the number of bits. It is supposed to be 24 bits for this recording. So, I know the output shows 24/192 on the D2, but the input only shows the bit rate. Again, any way to show the input number of bits? (it's ok if I'm doing somehting stupid, tell me







)


----------



## jayray

Quick question. Going on vacation for two weeks and wanted to unplug the AVM 50. Will the settings be lost? I have backed them up but would rather not have to use the backup if I don't have to.

thanks,

John


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a question about the displays. Is there a way to get both the data rate and the number of bits? I just got a new DVDA and was playing it through the Oppo, and it showed 48 KHz PCM. It was supposed to be 96 KHz (probably something I have set wrong on the Oppo?). So, I throw it in the PS3 and the D2 shows 96 KHz as expected. However, now I am curious as to the number of bits. It is supposed to be 24 bits for this recording. So, I know the output shows 24/192 on the D2, but the input only shows the bit rate. Again, any way to show the input number of bits? (it's ok if I'm doing somehting stupid, tell me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



You need to change the Oppo (just for DVD-A) to output 720 or 1080 over HDMI. Switch it back to 480i for watching DVDs.


It would be helpful if Oppo could switch based on detecting DVD-A discs.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You need to change the Oppo (just for DVD-A) to output 720 or 1080 over HDMI. Switch it back to 480i for watching DVDs.
> 
> 
> It would be helpful if Oppo could switch based on detecting DVD-A discs.




Yes, I knew that part (and I have it on 1080i). I'm sure "that" problem is one of the settings in the setup menu. Thanks for the reminder though.


----------



## obie_fl

Quite a few DVD-As are only 48Khz. What is the title?


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quite a few DVD-As are only 48Khz. What is the title?



This one has 24/96 all over the cover and the video









It may not really be a DVDA (it says DAD).


It's the Sarah McLachlan "Touch" Album (much much better than the CD).


I'm actually more interested in if there is a way to get the anthem to display ALL the input signal parameters (number of bits). It seems it should since it does for the output


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question. Going on vacation for two weeks and wanted to unplug the AVM 50. Will the settings be lost? I have backed them up but would rather not have to use the backup if I don't have to.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



John, If the 50 works the same as the D2 and I suspect it does........then when you pull the plug it performs a save I think but Bob knows for sure.......I'm pretty sure its in the manual.


Peter


ps enjoy your cruise!!!!!!


----------



## obie_fl

I think I have a DAD disc or two, I'll have to check them out. I'd like to see a bit depth indicator too... in fact I think I requested that earlier in the thread.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question. Going on vacation for two weeks and wanted to unplug the AVM 50. Will the settings be lost? I have backed them up but would rather not have to use the backup if I don't have to.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



I UNPLUG mine every day. No Problems.


I have a BIG Control System that terminates any power

going to any of my equipment when the THEATER is OFF.


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just heard back from Anthem.
> 
> 
> Passthru is indeed NOT Passthru right now. They will make it so in the next release, but no date given.
> 
> 
> Nick's suggested workaround:
> 
> 
> - set component 2 out to Zone 2
> 
> - at the bottom of menu 6 set Zone 2 copy main to Always instead of Manual.
> 
> - turn on Zone 2 whenever you want to use the TV.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know. For me I think I might just use the Component Scaler Input for now so that my family can use the system. I can always optimize the settings for particular movie or something when I'm there.
> 
> 
> Ken



So if you "Copy Main" you can't watch TV on one TV and DVD on another?


----------



## Nathan_R

Hmmm, this is a first for me, as I've been lucky with my HDMI handshakes in the prior firmware updates, but after applying 1.12s, I pretty much get no video out of my AVM-50 when I turn everything on. I can get audio, though. The only way for me to fix this is to unplug the processor completely and then plug it back in.


Anyone experiencing this?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm, this is a first for me, as I've been lucky with my HDMI handshakes in the prior firmware updates, but after applying 1.12s, I pretty much get no video out of my AVM-50 when I turn everything on. I can get audio, though. The only way for me to fix this is to unplug the processor completely and then plug it back in.
> 
> 
> Anyone experiencing this?



I'm just so Happy







I'm not using

any of this Beta Test software. Too

many glitches to deal with


----------



## KenLand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So if you "Copy Main" you can't watch TV on one TV and DVD on another?



Right.


I think full featured multi-zone requires all component hookup with Scaler In: Comp# right now.


Ken


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm, this is a first for me, as I've been lucky with my HDMI handshakes in the prior firmware updates, but after applying 1.12s, I pretty much get no video out of my AVM-50 when I turn everything on. I can get audio, though. The only way for me to fix this is to unplug the processor completely and then plug it back in.
> 
> 
> Anyone experiencing this?



Yep







http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post10917446 


I've found a higher rate of success by powering-on the D2 first then powering-on the plasma mid-way through the D2 init process.


----------



## Nathan_R




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post10917446
> 
> 
> I've found a higher rate of success by powering-on the D2 first then powering-on the plasma mid-way through the D2 init process.



Thank you, sir! I'll change the boot order on my Harmony tonight and see how that works.


----------



## RROSEN

Hi all,


As a soon to be previous AVM 20 owner I have a few questions regarding my D2 arrival tonight (hopefully I can pick it up tonight otherwise tomorrow for sure).


It is mainly with regard to the best ways to connect it to my HD-A1 HD-DVD player for HD + SD-DVD playback. Any tips or suggestions?


I did a few searches in this thread, but it is huge and I simply was not able to pinpoint anything. Search results in 4+ pages worth with little being identifiable in the brief descriptions.


For HD media I think the video is pretty straight forward. 1080i out to the D2 which will then process that to 1080p for my HP pavilion MD6580n.


I am a little less clear with the audio, but if I am not mistaken, I can get the same quality if not better by simply using the HDMI input for DD, DD+, DD TrueHD etc, etc via PCM to the D2. Any special settings I need to be away of?


I also read through the manual and to be fair while I tend to think I am at least moderately informed I still get confused when you start talking PCM and bitstream.


For the playback of SD-DVD's what is my best bet? I understand that the preference is to have a player that outputs 480i. From what I can find out my HD-A1 does not. I also have a Panasonic RP91 which can output 480i, but that would be through Component and not HDMI.


For SD-DVD I set the output to Bitstream then for DD and DTS?


I also have a HTPC that can output HDMI and I assume pretty much any resolution I want. What do you think the best option here is? Should I just pick up an OPPO 970 and be done with it or can I get as good with any of the other options.


If I were to get the OPPO would DVD-Audio and SACD's playback vie HDMI or only the DVD-A?


Thanks for the help. Trying to read up on and find out as much about how to get the most from it prior to starting the setup.


This thread is a huge resource so thanks.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Richard,

There's a bunch of useful info in the post links collected in the first post of this thread.


Check the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post for example for hints on setting things up.


Also read the first post in the "Why you don't need HDMI V1.3" sticky thread at the top of this forum. It has info that will help you understand "bitstream" vs. PCM stuff.


For standard DVDs and HDTV you send the "bitstream" to the D2 (i.e., for Dolby Digital or DTS tracks). This can come in over HDMI or optical or coax digital audio cable.


For HD-DVD and Blu-Ray you send PCM to the D2 (over HDMI only). The player has to do the decoding of any packed tracks. Right now you can get players with TrueHD decoders. Soon there should be players with DTS-HD MA decoders.


The Oppo 970 (which is the Oppo to get for use with the D2) will send both DVD-Audio and SACD over HDMI -- as high bandwidth, multi-channel PCM. Due to the way HDMI works (audio is multiplexed into video) you need to set the output resolution of the Oppo to 720p or 1080i when playing SACD or DVD-Audio discs to get the full bandwidth of the audio. For standard DVD playback you should use 480i.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

Thanks Bob,


I had read through your awesome config guide and that will virtually be my step by step setup plan. ;-) I have also read your how to fill your 16x9 screen from a 4x3 SD/HD signal which will be fun to play with.


I had also been in contact with Nick previously in the whole HDMI 1.3 fact and fiction stuff so I have also read up on that. I still reserve the right to have a slight mental block with PCM and Bitstream for some reason. We all have our qwerks hahaa. Your brief outline above should keep me from blowing anything up accidentally hahaa.


I am looking forward to the hours and hours of tweaking calibrating, experimenting, goofing, and fixing all the various settings as I get used to this bad boy. Note to self: leave Frame Lock alone for now.


I just ordered the Oppo. Was looking at it already and for the price compared to the overall system its a no brainer.


For now until it arrives what would you suggest as my best option for SD-DVD. HD-A1 out at 480p / 1080i or play around with my HTPC output resolutions to get 480i?


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## mathis08

Hi all,


Any new for the calibration kit?


Thanks


----------



## VTGOLFER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Richard,
> 
> There's a bunch of useful info in the post links collected in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> Check the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post for example for hints on setting things up.
> 
> 
> Also read the first post in the "Why you don't need HDMI V1.3" sticky thread at the top of this forum. It has info that will help you understand "bitstream" vs. PCM stuff.
> 
> 
> For standard DVDs and HDTV you send the "bitstream" to the D2 (i.e., for Dolby Digital or DTS tracks). This can come in over HDMI or optical or coax digital audio cable.
> 
> 
> For HD-DVD and Blu-Ray you send PCM to the D2 (over HDMI only). The player has to do the decoding of any packed tracks. Right now you can get players with TrueHD decoders. Soon there should be players with DTS-HD MA decoders.
> 
> 
> The Oppo 970 (which is the Oppo to get for use with the D2) will send both DVD-Audio and SACD over HDMI -- as high bandwidth, multi-channel PCM. Due to the way HDMI works (audio is multiplexed into video) you need to set the output resolution of the Oppo to 720p or 1080i when playing SACD or DVD-Audio discs to get the full bandwidth of the audio. For standard DVD playback you should use 480i.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I thought that you have to at least have HDMI 1.2 to output SACD. Am I wrong or is the Anthem Statement D2 HDMI 1.2, I thought it was only 1.1 compliant.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VTGOLFER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, I thought that you have to at least have HDMI 1.2 to output SACD. Am I wrong or is the Anthem Statement D2 HDMI 1.2, I thought it was only 1.1 compliant.



You are correct - the D2 is HDMI 1.1, but a popular player such as the Oppo 970 converts the DSD into PCM before sending over HDMI. So it becomes a non-issue for many.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mathis08* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Any new for the calibration kit?
> 
> 
> Thanks


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post10928939


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I just ordered the Oppo. Was looking at it already and for the price compared to the overall system its a no brainer.
> 
> 
> For now until it arrives what would you suggest as my best option for SD-DVD. HD-A1 out at 480p / 1080i or play around with my HTPC output resolutions to get 480i?
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



A lot of folks say the Toshiba gives good SD playback. I'd go with that.


----------



## ILJG

...like I do every other month or so.


Has 1080i60 ---> 1080p24 been ironed out yet?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ILJG* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...like I do every other month or so.
> 
> 
> Has 1080i60 ---> 1080p24 been ironed out yet?



No.


But it sounds like they are getting closer!


----------



## ILJG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No.
> 
> 
> But it sounds like they are getting closer!



Thanks.










Rob, you have an A1, too, right? Or was it an XA1? Either way, I'm sure you're chomping at the bit to get 1080p24 from first gen HD DVD as well, huh?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ILJG* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rob, you have an A1, too, right? Or was it an XA1? Either way, I'm sure you're chomping at the bit to get 1080p24 from first gen HD DVD as well, huh?



Yep, I have the A1 like you, and that has always been the main reason for wanting 1080i->1080p/24 processing.


----------



## kal

Anyone have any pictures of the D2 from above? (Or better yet, some sort of CAD drawing?)


Both the D2 and P5 comes in 3 widths according to the manuals:











My recessed rack is exactly 17-1/4" wide to fit standard equipment. I'm trying to figure out if I should get the 'Standard Version' (19-1.4" wide) and have the handles stick outside of my rack (or if that's even possible) or go with the 'No-Handle Version' (17-1.4" wide) and have it appear more flush inside the rack like I do with my current prepro and amps.


It's hard to tell I can't really tell how far the 'Standard Version' handles stick out out to the front. The best picture I found is this one of the P5:











I'm assuming that the D2 is the same? Do the handles come off?


It does seem that the handles stick out to the front and then to the sides so I can likely use the 'Standard Version' just fine, but it may look a little odd in my rack. Thoughts?


My rack looks like this and is exactly 17-1.4" wide:









_(I've been delinquent - picture needs updating... as it's missing the HD-PVR and BluRay player and the HTPC is going to be decommissioned soon)_


Kal


----------



## cecaa850

If you need the rack mounts, I've been told that they are sold seperately for $45.00.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My recessed rack is exactly 17-1/4" wide to fit standard equipment. I'm trying to figure out if I should get the 'Standard Version' (19-1.4" wide) and have the handles stick outside of my rack (or if that's even possible) or go with the 'No-Handle Version' (17-1.4" wide) and have it appear more flush inside the rack like I do with my current prepro and amps.
> 
> 
> It does seem that the handles stick out to the front and then to the sides so I can likely use the 'Standard Version' just fine, but it may look a little odd in my rack. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> Kal



I'd go with the No-Handle version.


I'd also look at leaving space above the D2 for airflow. People here have had issues after putting the D2 on the bottom of a stack of equipment, or in hot rooms. The PS3 will cause overheating issues, although that may have been fixed with latest firmware.


----------



## rmarcoot

It's going to be a great weekend. I just picked up my D2 and am ready to dive in. I decided on the D2 in no small measure because of this thread. Not only because of the unanimous opinion as to the quality of the D2 but because of the great resource that this thread provides and I know there is a place I can go when I need help. So thanks to everyone for your participation in this thread and for the help I'm sure I'll need in the near future.


BTW, the shipping box indicates version 1.2


I hope the mascots are in plentiful supply










Take care,

Randy


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's going to be a great weekend. I just picked up my D2 and am ready to dive in. I decided on the D2 in no small measure because of this thread. Not only because of the unanimous opinion as to the quality of the D2 but because of the great resource that this thread provides and I know there is a place I can go when I need help. So thanks to everyone for your participation in this thread and for the help I'm sure I'll need in the near future.
> 
> 
> BTW, the shipping box indicates version 1.2
> 
> 
> I hope the mascots are in plentiful supply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take care,
> 
> Randy



Congratulations and welcome to the family. I believe you are the first to report a production ship of 1.2. If so we will be interested to hear if the status report on the panel says 1.2 (e)(s) or just 1.2.


I agree that with an unqualified endorsement of the technical excellence for the D2/av50, the real icing on the cake is this group and its unselfish support for those sharing the passion for this experience.


Mascots will be delivered as soon as they come out of Bob's oven!!!Hank has a couple but they can be a little high strung so I'd wait for Bob's....their house trained!!!!!!


Peter


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Congrats Randy!


My Mascots are not trained like Bob's are, but they are the _originals_







, so here ya go:


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd go with the No-Handle version.
> 
> 
> I'd also look at leaving space above the D2 for airflow. People here have had issues after putting the D2 on the bottom of a stack of equipment, or in hot rooms. The PS3 will cause overheating issues, although that may have been fixed with latest firmware.



Thanks for the input!


Yes, I plan on leaving a good 2-3" above the D2 for airlow with possibly an extra slow fan to blow air across the top of it whenever it's on (the cooler your run electronics, the longer they last, esp. electrolytic caps).


My rack is completely exposed on all sides in the back room. Lots of airflow. I'm a bit anal about cooling so I tend to take the very conservative/safe route - did the same with my PS3: it's got 4" of clearance above it and is completely clear to all sides, and a small fan keep air moving over it whenever it's on. The result is that the PS3 fan never kicks into anything higher than the lowest setting.


Kal


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Congratulations and welcome to the family. I believe you are the first to report a production ship of 1.2. If so we will be interested to hear if the status report on the panel says 1.2 (e)(s) or just 1.2.
> 
> 
> Peter



The display shows v1.20 so I guess it is ready to go.


I seem to have everything working so far (HD A1, Blu Ray, HR 20).


Thanks for the mascots Rob. It's always good to have the original.


OK - that's enough of a break - back to it.


Randy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input!
> 
> 
> Yes, I plan on leaving a good 2-3" above the D2 for airlow with possibly an extra slow fan to blow air across the top of it whenever it's on (the cooler your run electronics, the longer they last, esp. electrolytic caps).
> 
> 
> My rack is completely exposed on all sides in the back room. Lots of airflow. I'm a bit anal about cooling so I tend to take the very conservative/safe route - did the same with my PS3: it's got 4" of clearance above it and is completely clear to all sides, and a small fan keep air moving over it whenever it's on. The result is that the PS3 fan never kicks into anything higher than the lowest setting.
> 
> 
> Kal



Kal, yes the handles in the "standard" D2 come off. There's a post in here somewhere by DRHANKZ discussing his effort to make a rack-mount unit when none where available by removing the handles and machining mounting holes into them. He's even got a photo of the final result. [Remove the chassis cover and the mounting points can be unscrewed from the inside.]

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The display shows v1.20 so I guess it is ready to go.
> 
> 
> I seem to have everything working so far (HD A1, Blu Ray, HR 20).
> 
> 
> Thanks for the mascots Rob. It's always good to have the original.
> 
> 
> OK - that's enough of a break - back to it.
> 
> 
> Randy



Randy! You lucky dog!


Did you also get a new V1.2 version of the User's Manual to go with it?


Does it have any writeups on what's new in the V1.2 version of the software?


Inquiring minds want to know! Speak!


(oh yeah)


The rest of us:










>>









>>>>









>>>>>>











Randy:


>>>>>>>>>>>











--Bob


----------



## jluloff

Just want to make sure I get this setup right as I just bought a couple SACD's and 1 DVD-A.


In the Oppo 970 menus I would do the following?


Speaker Setup - Downmix=5.1ch?


Speakers - large or small? subwoofer -on/off? or do these setting not matter?


Audio Setup Page:

Digital Ouput - RAW or PCM?

HDMI Audio - Auto or LPCM?


Also, would need to change Oppo from 480i to either 780p or 1080i from what I read in another post. Does it matter which? is 780p or 1080i the same for this purpose?


I assume in the AVM-50 the 'Audio In' is set to Dig HDMI


Which are the best surround modes would you say for SACD, DVD-A, CD, Movies in a 7.1 setup?


DD-5.1, DD-EX, DTS-5.1- would you say Dolby D EX, or PLIIx Movie+THX or PLIIx Movie or something different


Should they be different for music vs movies or will the same ones work for both?



Hope someone can help enlighten me or point me in right direction. Thanks


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Randy! You lucky dog!
> 
> 
> Did you also get a new V1.2 version of the User's Manual to go with it?
> 
> 
> Does it have any writeups on what's new in the V1.2 version of the software?
> 
> 
> Inquiring minds want to know! Speak!
> 
> 
> (oh yeah)
> 
> 
> The rest of us:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >>>>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >>>>>>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Randy:
> 
> 
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Hey Bob


Thanks for the mascots. The cover of my manual says "Software Version 1.2x" so at least that has been changed. I previously downloaded read the version 1.1x manual so that I could get a quick start. Therefore I haven't read too much of the new manual to notice if there are any differences. And there wasn't any information on things that had been added/fixed in 1.2.


Randy


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just want to make sure I get this setup right as I just bought a couple SACD's and 1 DVD-A.
> 
> 
> In the Oppo 970 menus I would do the following?
> 
> 
> Speaker Setup - Downmix=5.1ch?
> 
> 
> Speakers - large or small? subwoofer -on/off? or do these setting not matter?
> 
> 
> Audio Setup Page:
> 
> Digital Ouput - RAW or PCM?
> 
> HDMI Audio - Auto or LPCM?
> 
> 
> Also, would need to change Oppo from 480i to either 780p or 1080i from what I read in another post. Does it matter which? is 780p or 1080i the same for this purpose?
> 
> 
> I assume in the AVM-50 the 'Audio In' is set to Dig HDMI
> 
> 
> Which are the best surround modes would you say for SACD, DVD-A, CD, Movies in a 7.1 setup?
> 
> 
> DD-5.1, DD-EX, DTS-5.1- would you say Dolby D EX, or PLIIx Movie+THX or PLIIx Movie or something different
> 
> 
> Should they be different for music vs movies or will the same ones work for both?
> 
> 
> 
> Hope someone can help enlighten me or point me in right direction. Thanks



Well I have to jump in here and answer part of this since I just got through fighting with Oppo over it









For most things you want this:

Speaker Setup Page:

Down-mix: 5.1 CH

Front Speaker: Large

Center Speaker: Large

Rear Speaker: Large

Subwoofer: On

Audio Setup Page:

Digital Output: Raw

HDMI Audio: Auto

Video out to 1080i for Audio, 480i for video (D2 upscale).


However, unfortunately if you run across any of the DAD or other high resolution audio disks based on DVD you need to change the HDMI Audio to LPCM. unfortunately the Oppo incorrectly sends out 48 KHz instead of 96 KHz if you do not do this (same over the optical out by the way). I need to do some testing on SACD since it may be doing something similar.


For the other stuff, I will let the experts answer


----------



## jluloff

Where ca nyou see if the Oppo incorrectly sends out 48 KHz instead of 96 KHz ?


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where ca nyou see if the Oppo incorrectly sends out 48 KHz instead of 96 KHz ?



The status button on the front panel allows you to cycle through the information. I think its about number three as you go through it.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Ok, since Randy has a 1.2 version, when can we expect the official release to upgrade?


----------



## zzzzdoc

OK, time for my every few month thank you to the board and to Nick at Anthem.























I have my D2 now on v1.12s, and am able to watch 1080p24 from the Samsung BD-P1200 on the JVC RS-1.


Outstanding. This is what you put up with all that aggravation for,


Still don't think it is totally correct (the Samsung settings don't seem sticky. They have to be reset to 1080p24 each disc), but when accomplished, it's a great image.


Any thoughts on getting some stickyness to the 1080p24 settings? I'm thinking it's a handshake issue, somehow.


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kal, yes the handles in the "standard" D2 come off. There's a post in here somewhere by DRHANKZ discussing his effort to make a rack-mount unit when none where available by removing the handles and machining mounting holes into them. He's even got a photo of the final result. [Remove the chassis cover and the mounting points can be unscrewed from the inside.]



Thanks Bob! I'll send DRHANKZ a PM to just make sure I'm clear about a few things... I found his *original post with the picture* .


Kal


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, time for my every few month thank you to the board and to Nick at Anthem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my D2 now on v1.12s, and am able to watch 1080p24 from the Samsung BD-P1200 on the JVC RS-1.
> 
> 
> Outstanding. This is what you put up with all that aggravation for,
> 
> 
> Still don't think it is totally correct (the Samsung settings don't seem sticky. They have to be reset to 1080p24 each disc), but when accomplished, it's a great image.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on getting some stickyness to the 1080p24 settings? I'm thinking it's a handshake issue, somehow.



If the 1200 is anything like the 1000, it resets the settings if anything even *thinks* about not going exactly to plan. In other words, the 1000 I have (loaned out right now) would always reset back to 720p randomly (I think it's a Samsung issue, but it could be if the handshake fails even 1 small time it resets).


----------



## RIppolito

I've been struggling with a problem with my AVM 50 since March, namely, the aspect ratio on 480i input changed when switching between 480i and 1080i inputs on my cable box. I reported this to Nick some time ago with a bunch of debug info, and he told me that it was, indeed, a bug in the scaler such that it did not restore the aspect ratio of the pixels correctly all the time after a switch. Anyway, he said they had a fix in 1.12.


So, he sent me 1.12, and I couldn't install it correctly. To make a long story short, after trying three serial / serial cables, at least ten restores back to 1.11g, I tried another computer, and it worked. Apparently the installer timing changed just enough that my original laptop didn't work with it anymore. Bottom line, I got it installed, and it is good.


First-day impressions are as follows... it is worth the trouble to upgrade. The problem with 480i's aspect ratio changing is gone. The video quality coming out of the scaler looks a little sharper, with a little more depth, but I really couldn't tell you whether that is fact-based, or Hawthorne effect (does anybody know whether they made changes in the scaler to improve the output?). Lastly, the HDMI handshaking seems more solid and repeatable, particularly with my Toshiba HD-A1 player.


Is this consistent with what others are seeing?


Ron


----------



## metallicafreak

I am just gushing with jealousy towards you all.

I still have my AVM20 (anybody remember the commodore Vic20s?) , though I still love the sound and it has served me well. I sure would love one of those pretty D2s!

FREAK!


----------



## cecaa850

WOOOT I just paid for and ordered my D2 this afternoon. Can't wait. Bob and others should be getting bird dogs from Anthem for all the D2's they help sell. At the least, give them part of the tech assist pay!! I'll let you know when you can turn loose another set of mascots. Questions forhtcoming!!

Carl


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If the 1200 is anything like the 1000, it resets the settings if anything even *thinks* about not going exactly to plan. In other words, the 1000 I have (loaned out right now) would always reset back to 720p randomly (I think it's a Samsung issue, but it could be if the handshake fails even 1 small time it resets).



Hmmm, he says, having nothing better to add.


Don't doubt it's the Samsung at all. I just upgrading their firmware which makes 1080p24 possible. Doesn't mean it makes it EASY.


----------



## jluloff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I have to jump in here and answer part of this since I just got through fighting with Oppo over it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most things you want this:
> 
> Speaker Setup Page:
> 
> Down-mix: 5.1 CH
> 
> Front Speaker: Large
> 
> Center Speaker: Large
> 
> Rear Speaker: Large
> 
> Subwoofer: On
> 
> Audio Setup Page:
> 
> Digital Output: Raw
> 
> HDMI Audio: Auto
> 
> Video out to 1080i for Audio, 480i for video (D2 upscale).
> 
> 
> However, unfortunately if you run across any of the DAD or other high resolution audio disks based on DVD you need to change the HDMI Audio to LPCM. unfortunately the Oppo incorrectly sends out 48 KHz instead of 96 KHz if you do not do this (same over the optical out by the way). I need to do some testing on SACD since it may be doing something similar.
> 
> 
> For the other stuff, I will let the experts answer




Should SACD be running at 96 KHz? It seems when i check the display on the AVM-50 it's at 88.2 for both disks I have currently. For regular CD's it at 44.1 KHz which is correct I believe. This is using the settings above.


----------



## rmarcoot

Well it appears as if I have the infamous PS3 "clicks problem that was reported earlier. The clicks vary by source but are very noticeable on all multi-channel PCM from Blu Ray discs on the PS3. They are also noticeable on multi-channel PCM on HD DVD from my HD A1 - although much less so. As reported earlier, the clicks only appear in the center channel and the surrounds - never in the L, R or rear speakers. I have tried three different HDMI cables and all 4 HDMI inputs on the D2 with the same results.


Any suggestions of other things to try before contacting Nick?


Thanks,

Randy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well it appears as if I have the infamous PS3 "clicks problem that was reported earlier. The clicks vary by source but are very noticeable on all multi-channel PCM from Blu Ray discs on the PS3. They are also noticeable on multi-channel PCM on HD DVD from my HD A1 - although much less so. As reported earlier, the clicks only appear in the center channel and the surrounds - never in the L, R or rear speakers. I have tried three different HDMI cables and all 4 HDMI inputs on the D2 with the same results.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions of other things to try before contacting Nick?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Randy



Contact Anthem tech support. Since they've already swapped at least one unit for "clicks" by now, it's possible they may have now determined whether this is really a hardware fault in some units, or just a software bug that only affects a few users.


The usual next step, however, would be to verify that you can hear the clicks through headphones in your current setup. Then take the PS3, the Anthem, and a set of headphones to an entirely different location -- preferably another building, but at the very least a different room and power circuit. Connect up only the PS3 via HDMI -- no other devices -- no amps/speakers -- no other cables except for power -- and see if you still have the clicks. This will eliminate the possibility that you have some sort of external RF/EMI interference source in your normal listening area that's causing this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Should SACD be running at 96 KHz? It seems when i check the display on the AVM-50 it's at 88.2 for both disks I have currently. For regular CD's it at 44.1 KHz which is correct I believe. This is using the settings above.



88.2 is correct for one of SACD and DVD-Audio, but I can never remember which one. The other one is 96. 44.1 is correct for standard DVDs.

--Bob


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Should SACD be running at 96 KHz? It seems when i check the display on the AVM-50 it's at 88.2 for both disks I have currently. For regular CD's it at 44.1 KHz which is correct I believe. This is using the settings above.



For the Oppo 88.2 KHz is correct. The only real issue is if you have other strange video format disks like DAD. They should be 96 KHz. You have to set the Oppo to LPCM for those. Actually I now have mine set up like "secrets" suggests (duh, I should learn to read). LPCM for hdmi audio and optical for 480i DVD's (thus I only have to reset the screen resolution for all the different combinations. Please note that there is really no "rule" for the SACD data rate. It gets converted by the source (in our case) to PCM. Denon has 50 KHz and 100 KHz choices I believe. The PS3 converts it to 96 KHz, so it's going to depend on the source device. Oh, and if anyone has a suggestion for a better player than the Oppo I'm all ears. I'm starting to gravitate to the PS3 for all my high resolutoin needs (that it supports).


----------



## sdurani

SACD has a sampling rate (2.8224mHz) that is exactly 64 times the CD sampling rate (44.1kHz). This rate was deliberately chosen because DSD was originally created as an archiving format, not for release directly to the public, always intended be downsampled for consumer media. Clean downsampling (simple division, without interpolation) will always yield a multiple of 44.1: e.g., Oppo does 88.2, PS3 does 88.2 and 176.4 (user selectable).


Sanjay


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well it appears as if I have the infamous PS3 "clicks problem that was reported earlier. The clicks vary by source but are very noticeable on all multi-channel PCM from Blu Ray discs on the PS3. They are also noticeable on multi-channel PCM on HD DVD from my HD A1 - although much less so. As reported earlier, the clicks only appear in the center channel and the surrounds - never in the L, R or rear speakers. I have tried three different HDMI cables and all 4 HDMI inputs on the D2 with the same results.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions of other things to try before contacting Nick?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Randy



I took my PS3 into my dealer and ran it into his D2 setup (to make sure it wasn't the PS3) -- no clicks. I also pulled my D2 out of it's rack and bench tested it with just the PS3 and headphones (to eliminate other sources of interference) -- still clicks. Based on that, Nick has authorized a swap-out for me. Just waiting on D2 production, expected to ship out next week. I'll report back when the new unit comes in.


In the mean time, you can have a few of my frustrated-owner mascots. Do be careful though, as they antagonize Rob's happy-owner mascots.







I hope to swap these guys out for the happy ones next week.


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Contact Anthem tech support. Since they've already swapped at least one unit for "clicks" by now, it's possible they may have now determined whether this is really a hardware fault in some units, or just a software bug that only affects a few users.
> 
> 
> The usual next step, however, would be to verify that you can hear the clicks through headphones in your current setup. Then take the PS3, the Anthem, and a set of headphones to an entirely different location -- preferably another building, but at the very least a different room and power circuit. Connect up only the PS3 via HDMI -- no other devices -- no amps/speakers -- no other cables except for power -- and see if you still have the clicks. This will eliminate the possibility that you have some sort of external RF/EMI interference source in your normal listening area that's causing this.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,


I'll try to round up some headphones to give this a try. It appears from a later post by 3no that he does not have his replacement unit yet so I would guess Anthem may not had a handle on this yet. I remember a couple of other people indicating they had the same problem but don't remember seeing them post a resolution.


I have sent an email to Anthem support and we'll see where we go from here.


Thanks again,

Randy


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I took my PS3 into my dealer and ran it into his D2 setup (to make sure it wasn't the PS3) -- no clicks. I also pulled my D2 out of it's rack and bench tested it with just the PS3 and headphones (to eliminate other sources of interference) -- still clicks. Based on that, Nick has authorized a swap-out for me. Just waiting on D2 production, expected to ship out next week. I'll report back when the new unit comes in.
> 
> 
> In the mean time, you can have a few of my frustrated-owner mascots. Do be careful though, as they antagonize Rob's happy-owner mascots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope to swap these guys out for the happy ones next week.




Oh man, those mascots look both confused and as though they are in pain! As such, I hope you get your issues resolved soon!


----------



## tbui57

I have decide to go with AVM50, Dynaudio Focus series speakers & Sony Pearl projector. Is there any issue that I should be aware of this combination ? I am using this system mainly for movies (bluray & hddvd) and music (CD).


Apperciate any input you may have including what cables I should use (any advantage with balance cable vs RCA interconnect ?, what gauge should I use for 15' HDMI ?). I am reading though the manuals. Thanks a bunch.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Tivo S3


When I first got the Tivo I had it connected directly to my display with HDMI and the picture was distinctly better than my cable box, SA 8300. When I got the D2 I hooked everything with component and the picture using the SA8300 is way better than the Tivo. The tivo now has a slight green cast to it and is soft around the edges. Any ideas? I have all the video settings the same for both on the D2.


Is it safe to go all HDMI now with the new 1.12s software?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tivo S3
> 
> 
> When I first got the Tivo I had it connected directly to my display with HDMI and the picture was distinctly better than my cable box, SA 8300. When I got the D2 I hooked everything with component and the picture using the SA8300 is way better than the Tivo. The tivo now has a slight green cast to it and is soft around the edges. Any ideas? I have all the video settings the same for both on the D2.
> 
> 
> Is it safe to go all HDMI now with the new 1.12s software?



I think the jury is still out on whether the new software (V1.12s, V1.2, whatever we are calling it now) manages to squash all the HDMI strangenesses of the S3. If you try it, please be sure to report back!


But as for your Component hookup, be aware that there is no reason why the best video settings for SA8300 Component should be the same as the best video settings for S3 Component.


Now your D2 video OUTPUT settings, and the levels in your TV, will be unchanged of course. You set those to best reproduce the D2's own video test charts on the TV. But you may very well need to make some adjustments in the D2's INPUT video levels for the S3, and those could be different from what works best for the 8300.


In addition, there have been some significant bug fixes in Component video input starting around V1.11g. Not everybody seems to be affected by these, but there's one really nasty one for Component 480i input (i.e., SDTV channels) that produces quite a bit of image degradation if you get bit by it.


[Start a Component 480i source. Go to Video Source Adjust / Info. If the input video resolution shows as something like 1440x480i instead of 720x480i then you are being bit by this bug.]


So switch to the new software, then look to record one of the short test chart programs broadcast by HD-NET and IN-HD. The one on IN-HD is called "Tune Up". They are broadcast early in the mornings about once every 2 weeks. Verify your TV's level settings using the D2's charts and then verify the D2's INPUT settings (Video Source Adjust / Picture for each input) by playing these recorded test charts. Expect that the best INPUT settings will vary from device to device and between HDMI and Component input from any given device.


Also, if the overemphasis of greens is on only one of HDTV vs SDTV, verify that Video Source Adjust / Picture / Input Color Space is set to Auto YCbCr.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have decide to go with AVM50, Dynaudio Focus series speakers & Sony Pearl projector. Is there any issue that I should be aware of this combination ? I am using this system mainly for movies (bluray & hddvd) and music (CD).
> 
> 
> Apperciate any input you may have including what cables I should use (any advantage with balance cable vs RCA interconnect ?, what gauge should I use for 15' HDMI ?). I am reading though the manuals. Thanks a bunch.



Do not expect 1080p/24Hz output to work well with the Pearl.


Also, as I recall there is a problem with the DVI input on the Pearl, so use the HDMI input at 1080p/60Hz. [You can still send 1080p/24Hz INPUT to the AVM50 and it will rate convert it to 1080p/60 output for you.]

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have decide to go with AVM50, Dynaudio Focus series speakers & Sony Pearl projector. Is there any issue that I should be aware of this combination ? I am using this system mainly for movies (bluray & hddvd) and music (CD).
> 
> 
> Apperciate any input you may have including what cables I should use (any advantage with balance cable vs RCA interconnect ?, what gauge should I use for 15' HDMI ?). I am reading though the manuals. Thanks a bunch.



IF YOU HAVE NOT BOUGHT the pearl already - DO NOT!


It has been replaced with a better unit.


----------



## zzzzdoc

So, more HDMI strangeness over the weekend. Watched the Blazing Saddles BluRay disc. 1080p24 on the Samsung BDP1200/JVC RS-1 combo. The film went great, no problems. After watching the film (Mongo likes candy...), I tried to watch the deleted scenes. After choosing that in the menu, the screen went blue, then green, with HDMI sync error messages, etc. The only thing that would fix it was turning off the Samsung (and I think I turned off the Anthem too.) Then on 1080p60 it played just fine.


Anyone with the Samsung/JVC/Anthem combo want to try that disc and see if the same thing happens with you?


----------



## tbui57




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> IF YOU HAVE NOT BOUGHT the pearl already - DO NOT!
> 
> 
> It has been replaced with a better unit.



I have not make the order yet.

Is this the VW60 that people are speculating about and will be released in September ? Could you please elaborate what is wrong with the Pearl & AVM50 besides the 1080p/24pfs. Thanks a million.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have not make the order yet.
> 
> Is this the VW60 that people are speculating about and will be released in September ? Could you please elaborate what is wrong with the Pearl & AVM50 besides the 1080p/24pfs. Thanks a million.



Yes the VW50 is already discontinued. ONLY dealer

stock is available.


The VW60 will be available in September. I know one

Sony dealer who will take orders now. If you can wait

until September - I'm sure you will like the VW60 better.

UNLESS you get a drop dead deal on a VW50.


The VW60 will support 120Hz which will be way better

than 1080p/24.


I don't think there is anything wrong with the pearl.

It does need some custom timings to use 1080p/24.

I'm not sure Anthem has the custom timings at a

perfect match yet.


----------



## tbui57




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do not expect 1080p/24Hz output to work well with the Pearl.
> 
> 
> Also, as I recall there is a problem with the DVI input on the Pearl, so use the HDMI input at 1080p/60Hz. [You can still send 1080p/24Hz INPUT to the AVM50 and it will rate convert it to 1080p/60 output for you.]
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Is the 1080p/24Hz really make visible differences in your opinion ? I heard it will remove judders due to 3:2 pull-down, but not sure if I can see any difference. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Is the 1080p/24Hz really make visible differences in your opinion ? I heard it will remove judders due to 3:2 pull-down, but not sure if I can see any difference. Thanks again.



Yes, a cadence judder free setup is better. You will see the difference if you have a "normal" display side by side but the brain does a pretty good job of hiding it otherwise.

--Bob


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, more HDMI strangeness over the weekend. Watched the Blazing Saddles BluRay disc. 1080p24 on the Samsung BDP1200/JVC RS-1 combo. The film went great, no problems. After watching the film (Mongo likes candy...), I tried to watch the deleted scenes. After choosing that in the menu, the screen went blue, then green, with HDMI sync error messages, etc. The only thing that would fix it was turning off the Samsung (and I think I turned off the Anthem too.) Then on 1080p60 it played just fine.
> 
> 
> Anyone with the Samsung/JVC/Anthem combo want to try that disc and see if the same thing happens with you?



The supplements are not encoded as 1080p24, they are probably SD at 60hz. They Anthem is losing synch because the Samsung is probably wigging out too.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I took my PS3 into my dealer and ran it into his D2 setup (to make sure it wasn't the PS3) -- no clicks. I also pulled my D2 out of it's rack and bench tested it with just the PS3 and headphones (to eliminate other sources of interference) -- still clicks. Based on that, Nick has authorized a swap-out for me. Just waiting on D2 production, expected to ship out next week. I'll report back when the new unit comes in.



Interesting. I hadn't been paying much attention here lately. I haven't noticed others seeing the problem. My D2 "clicks" with the PS3, my Tosh A1, and my Oppo 970HD playing SACDs (all mch PCM into D2). The "clicking" does NOT happen in the main L/R speakers, just center and surrounds. I've been working with Nick somewhat (lately haven't had time to do much). I'm about ready to get a new unit (this is my 2nd D2).


larry


----------



## RROSEN

I also picked up my D2 and dropped off my AVM 20 on Thursday.


Still just digging in and playing around a bit. I have not yet gone through the soup to nuts calibration from the links at the beginning, but have done the basic audio setup, speaker level and positioning etc.


Everything I have connected so far has worked flawlessly except my home theater PC. I can get an overscaned signal via component through the D2, but I just cant seem to get anything to sync via HDMI.


Are there any known issues with timing or Resolutions? I am using an Nvidea 8800 GTS. I also could only get the card to sync with my TV at 17xx x 9xx 60hz, but it of course won't pixel map (sorry forget the exact resolution, but it is one less than 1920 x 1080).


I can get it working direct to the TV (HP Pavilion MD6580n) at 1920 x 1080 30hz, but the picture extends about 6 inches past the edges of the screen similar to the problem with Component.


I had been hoping that the D2 could take whatever mess the video card was outputting and calm / coax it into a nice 1920 x 1080p for my TV to happily chew on but that isn't the case. At least not out of the box with the limited time I have spent tweaking. The display has an annoying habit of blanking out and preventing further adjustments easily as well so everything takes longer.


Any ideas?


Cheers


Richard


PS. I think mine is V 1.2 as well, but I will double-check tonight.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Richard,

Many folks with HTPC HDMI problems have found the Gefen DVI Detective product helpful. This is a gizmo that you place between the HTPC and the D2. It tackles a number of common EDID (configuration information) and handshaking problems that are pretty much peculiar to HTPC setups. EXAMPLE: The graphics card boots up in one resolution and then changes to another resolution without going through another handshake.


As for your particular problem with resolutions, what resolution would you LIKE to be able to send to the D2 from your HTPC, and what's the "native" resolution of your display?


Keep in mind that some displays are not willing to accept their true native resolution as a valid input resolution.


----------------------------------------------------------------------


The basic approach to this stuff is to separate input problems from output problems.


The first thing to do is to establish the Setup / Video Output settings in the D2 and the basic level settings in your TV that work best for your TV. You do this using the Anthem's internally generated test charts. This is independent of any sources, and in fact you'll probably find it less confusing if you just set the D2 to an input that doesn't happen to have anything connected.


Only AFTER you've got that Video Output stuff were you want it should you worry about getting the inputs set up correctly. At that point, you KNOW your D2 knows how to talk to your TV correctly, and so any problems that come up must be on the input side of things.


See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post linked off the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting. I hadn't been paying much attention here lately. I haven't noticed others seeing the problem. My D2 "clicks" with the PS3, my Tosh A1, and my Oppo 970HD playing SACDs (all mch PCM into D2). The "clicking" does NOT happen in the main L/R speakers, just center and surrounds. I've been working with Nick somewhat (lately haven't had time to do much). I'm about ready to get a new unit (this is my 2nd D2).
> 
> 
> larry



Having the same issues. I have a call into Nick also but if you talk to him first, let him know your are not alone.


Jeremy


----------



## hifisponge

Just took ownership of a D2 and A5 combo last week, and I'm running into some odd behavior. Right after initially power-up the D2, it shuts it's self back of just a few seconds later. I seem to remember someone else having this problem in this thread. Is this some sort of config / firmware issue , or is the unit defective?


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just took ownership of a D2 and A5 combo last week, and I'm running into some odd behavior. Right after initially power-up the D2, it shuts it's self back of just a few seconds later. I seem to remember someone else having this problem in this thread. Is this some sort of config / firmware issue , or is the unit defective?



I am one of the others which have the problem. It is much better with 1.12s. Probably only one out of ten times now. It used to be every time (within the following parameters). You will probably find if you fully remove power (switch on the back) it will never do it. Also if you turn it right back on it will be ok (although the triggers will immediately turn on). I'm sure they will eventually get it 100 percent ok. So, send Anthem (Nick) an email if you don't have 1.12s and I'm sure they will set you up. Note however, there are still issues and some might rather stay on the older revs depending on what other devices they have (TV and sources). I'm sure if you list all your equipment the helpful folks around here will steer you in the right direction.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Bob, If I am not mistaken you also have a 3412? I just updated my D2 to the V1.11. I had 1.6 before. The update went fine. However, I now can not seem to get a picture with D2 from my comcast box via HDMI (I can via component). I can get a picture from my OPPO DVD player via HDMI. The D2 indicates that it is getting a 1080I input from the comcast DVR but all I see is a blank screen (i get sound but I have the sound hooked up via optical. I have put in a call to Nick but I was wondering if you have any thoughts in the meantime.


D2 is set to HDMI 1 in. Repeater set to off. Frame lock off. Output is the same as I always have it set on 720p/60 RGB out.


thanks


-bob


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am one of the others which have the problem. It is much better with 1.12s. Probably only one out of ten times now. It used to be every time (within the following parameters). You will probably find if you fully remove power (switch on the back) it will never do it. Also if you turn it right back on it will be ok (although the triggers will immediately turn on). I'm sure they will eventually get it 100 percent ok. So, send Anthem (Nick) an email if you don't have 1.12s and I'm sure they will set you up. Note however, there are still issues and some might rather stay on the older revs depending on what other devices they have (TV and sources). I'm sure if you list all your equipment the helpful folks around here will steer you in the right direction.



Lucky you were reading the thread tonight. Thanks for the quick reply. So why doen't this happen to everyone with the original firmware? Why would some units be prone to it and not others? It is very annoying that is does this, especially for the wife who wants things as simple as possible and who also will not understand why a $6700 piece of gear is acting this way if it is not defective.


Sorry for the rant, but I don't want to have to live with this bug until Anthem addresses it.


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just took ownership of a D2 and A5 combo last week, and I'm running into some odd behavior. Right after initially power-up the D2, it shuts it's self back of just a few seconds later. I seem to remember someone else having this problem in this thread. Is this some sort of config / firmware issue , or is the unit defective?



This happen to me once. Are you using a trigger to turn on the amp? I didn't have this problem until I started to used a trigger verse auto sensing audio over the XLR.


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Having the same issues. I have a call into Nick also but if you talk to him first, let him know your are not alone.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



It sounds like there are quite a few of us with this issue. I sent an email yesterday but have not yet received a response. I will post any information as soon as I receive it. It would be appreciated if others would do the same.


It is interesting that I have the clicking problem with almost anything through the PS3 but it varies quite a bit with the HD A1. Batman Begins strongly exhibits the problem through the A1 but it only occurs rarely with Harry Potter Goblet of Fire (UK).



Thanks,

Randy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, If I am not mistaken you also have a 3412? I just updated my D2 to the V1.11. I had 1.6 before. The update went fine. However, I now can not seem to get a picture with D2 from my comcast box via HDMI (I can via component). I can get a picture from my OPPO DVD player via HDMI. The D2 indicates that it is getting a 1080I input from the comcast DVR but all I see is a blank screen (i get sound but I have the sound hooked up via optical. I have put in a call to Nick but I was wondering if you have any thoughts in the meantime.
> 
> 
> D2 is set to HDMI 1 in. Repeater set to off. Frame lock off. Output is the same as I always have it set on 720p/60 RGB out.
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> -bob



Yes I have the same misbegotten piece off trash Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR. Deep sigh....


Odds are the problem is simply that the 3412 has decided all by itself to change it's video output settings and is now all confused.


Power off the 3412 with its remote. Press Menu on the 3412 remote to go into the "special" menu (use its front panel display as necessary). Change the output resolutions (NOTE: Even if they appear correct, change them to something else, and then back again). Be sure to go into the second level HDMI settings menu and also set the output to HDMI and YCbCr 4:4:4.


Hit Power to save these settings, and then again to power up the 3412 again.


If that does not do it for you, upgrade the HDMI cable from the 3412 to the D2. Do this even if you don't think it will make a difference. Buy the cable from a place with an easy return policy just in case it doesn't fix the problem.


Make sure both cable ends are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets -- no strain to any side.


If that still doesn't do it, go to your cable provider and swap out the 3412 for another one. Make sure the 3412 is well ventilated to keep it from heating up.


Honestly, it is beyond me how they can charge money for this box.


------------------------------------------------------


On the D2 side, be sure you have "disabled" any of the "overlayed" inputs you are not using (i.e., TV2, TV3, etc.) so that you can't select one by mistake. Do this in the first line of Setup / Source Setup for each of them.


-------------------------------------------------------


If you really meant that you upgraded to the "original" V1.11 software (as available for download from the Anthem web site), it is possible that a latter version of software from Anthem tech support will do a better job of correcting for the poor HDMI implemenation in the 3412.


===========================================


EDITED TO ADD: If you did your Anthem upgrade while any HDMI cable was still attached to the Anthem, and if wall power was turned on for any device at the other end of those HDMI cables (in PARTICULAR for the 3412), then the odds are your Anthem software install didn't complete correctly. See the posts on software installation linked off the first post of this thread. It is OK to re-install the new Anthem software on top of itself to fix this.

--Bob


----------



## Roomraider

I just added a Sony BDP-S300 to my HT via HDMI, I've used every setting and still unable to get it to work with the AVM-50. Works fine with componant, but won't even give OSD through HDMI. If anybody has this same prob. and or expert advise, Please HELP!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just added a Sony BDP-S300 to my HT via HDMI, I've used every setting and still unable to get it to work with the AVM-50. Works fine with componant, but won't even give OSD through HDMI. If anybody has this same prob. and or expert advise, Please HELP!!!!!!!!!



Is it possible this player is based on the Pioneer (I know the first Sony was), and therefore using the same or similar firmware? At any rate, try the following:

1) Turn on TV and set to Anthem

2) Turn on Anthem and make sure you get the logo etc

3) Set the Anthem input to something other than the Sony

4) Turn on the Sony and wait 2 minutes (really)

5) Change the input to the Sony

See if that helps. If it does, you have the same issue Pioneer does, and it is apparently a problem with the player (and will be fixed RSN







). If not, I'm sure someone else who is using the Sony will pipe up and let you know if it works for them... Good luck

PS - I can't take credit for this one, someone on the Pioneer thread figured out the sequence (it's just the turn on Sony with Anthem not looking at it part).


----------



## cpcat

It works with the s300 as well. You must fully boot up the s300 with the AVM50 switched to another HDMI input. Then switch over to the s300 and it works.


And I'll take credit for it because I figured it out on my own.


----------



## buddy4711




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It sounds like there are quite a few of us with this issue. I sent an email yesterday but have not yet received a response. I will post any information as soon as I receive it. It would be appreciated if others would do the same.
> 
> 
> It is interesting that I have the clicking problem with almost anything through the PS3 but it varies quite a bit with the HD A1. Batman Begins strongly exhibits the problem through the A1 but it only occurs rarely with Harry Potter Goblet of Fire (UK).
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Randy



just received my d2 / a5 combo last week and have the same issue once in a while. not always but still a few time. have updated to v1.12s and still have this problem. I have set a trigger from d2 to A5.


----------



## funlvr1965

Im also having the "dirty record" pop and clicks, we watched " invincible" on bluray last night it was evident, whats Nicks email address and aside from the problem what other info are we providing? ie.. phone number, dealer etc?


----------



## buddy4711

I have finally received my d2 / a5 combo last week and run it together with a toshiba hd-dvd player (besides some other stuff) to display on a jvc dh1 projector. all connections via hdmi.


generally, I must say, that this stuff is just outstanding, soundvise and also the pictures it produce.


But after all component were originally working fine (they have installed v 1.12s) suddenly the toshi did not produce any pictures via the statement d2, but it did the sound. I was able to show the picture again when connecting to the jvc directly (without the statement). after several attempts of changing things (input res, output, etc. etc.) and almost after having lost my patience I plugged the toshi to HDMI input nr. 4 and hence everything is ok again!


So I assume that HDMI input nr. 1 is faulty now. Anybody same expenrience? Can somebody advise what to do? let it repair by the dealer or will it come back again?

thanks


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do not expect 1080p/24Hz output to work well with the Pearl.
> 
> 
> Also, as I recall there is a problem with the DVI input on the Pearl, so use the HDMI input at 1080p/60Hz. [You can still send 1080p/24Hz INPUT to the AVM50 and it will rate convert it to 1080p/60 output for you.]
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


There is no issue with the Sony Pearl and the Anthem at 1080p and 24 fps. The Pearl does not have a DVI input. Perhpas Bob is referring to the Sony Ruby.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Im also having the "dirty record" pop and clicks, we watched " invincible" on bluray last night it was evident, whats Nicks email address and aside from the problem what other info are we providing? ie.. phone number, dealer etc?



Use the email address given at the top of the first post in this thread.


I suggest you include your unit model # (D2 or AVM50), serial #, date and location of purchase, version of software currently installed (press the Select key once on the remote and read this in the front panel display), nature of the problem, and what steps you may have already taken to isolate the cause of the problem. If the problem is specific to one or two sources, give the make and model of the source and the software version running on the source as well.


Again, although it appears there is an Anthem bug of some sort at work here with this spate of reports of "clicks", the most common cause of such noise in other hardware is an external source of EMI/RFI interference -- such as USB or other computer devices, or switching noise from things like dimmers or appliances.


It is easy to eliminate this possibility. Verify that you can hear the noise in headphones connected to the Anthem, and then move ONE source device (only), the Anthem, and the headphones to an entirely different location (preferably a different building -- but at least a different room and power circuit). Hook up just one cable between them (and power of course) -- no amps/speakers, no other devices -- and see if the clicks are still present when listening through the headphones. If so, the problem appears to be in the Anthem. If not, then you have some external interference source and you can now start working to find it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> There is no issue with the Sony Pearl and the Anthem at 1080p and 24 fps. The Pearl does not have a DVI input. Perhpas Bob is referring to the Sony Ruby.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Sigh.


That's the SECOND time I've done that! Yes, I've got the Pearl and Ruby confused again.


Mea Culpa.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have finally received my d2 / a5 combo last week and run it together with a toshiba hd-dvd player (besides some other stuff) to display on a jvc dh1 projector. all connections via hdmi.
> 
> 
> generally, I must say, that this stuff is just outstanding, soundvise and also the pictures it produce.
> 
> 
> But after all component were originally working fine (they have installed v 1.12s) suddenly the toshi did not produce any pictures via the statement d2, but it did the sound. I was able to show the picture again when connecting to the jvc directly (without the statement). after several attempts of changing things (input res, output, etc. etc.) and almost after having lost my patience I plugged the toshi to HDMI input nr. 4 and hence everything is ok again!
> 
> 
> So I assume that HDMI input nr. 1 is faulty now. Anybody same expenrience? Can somebody advise what to do? let it repair by the dealer or will it come back again?
> 
> thanks



Contact Anthem tech support. If it turns out to be a faulty HDMI port they will likely swap out a new unit for you through the dealer (i.e., you won't have to return your current unit until the new unit arrives).


However, it is pretty unusual to have HDMI audio but no HDMI video. HDMI audio is not a separate signal. The audio is multiplexed inside the video. So there may be something else going on here.


There have been previous instances where SOFTWARE was the cause of loss of audio from the Toshiba XA2 player for example.


So explain what's going on to Anthem tech support and give them a chance to sort this out for you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just added a Sony BDP-S300 to my HT via HDMI, I've used every setting and still unable to get it to work with the AVM-50. Works fine with componant, but won't even give OSD through HDMI. If anybody has this same prob. and or expert advise, Please HELP!!!!!!!!!



As others have noted, that particular player seems to have problems when it tries to establish an HDMI connection WHILE it is booting up.


You need to get the player completely booted up before you try to make the first HDMI connection to it.

--Bob


----------



## buddy4711

does this makes sense? I must confess I didn't read all the 270+ pages in this thread to find out the following:


my equipment: Toshiba HD-XE1 via HDMI to Anthem Statement D2 via HDMI to JVC HD1 (=RS1).


I have set the following input - output resolutions:


from Toshi to D2: [email protected]

from D2 to JVC: [email protected]


does this makes sense if playing a hd dvd? thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> does this makes sense? I must confess I didn't read all the 270+ pages in this thread to find out the following:
> 
> 
> my equipment: Toshiba HD-XE1 via HDMI to Anthem Statement D2 via HDMI to JVC HD1 (=RS1).
> 
> 
> I have set the following input - output resolutions:
> 
> 
> from Toshi to D2: [email protected]
> 
> from D2 to JVC: [email protected]
> 
> 
> does this makes sense if playing a hd dvd? thanks



It should, but I'm not sure we know 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion is working quite right yet even in the V1.12s stuff. Try it and see if you get any "stuttering" of the image during movie playback. If not, then you are fine.


If so, then switch the player to 1080p/24 output if it will do that (Anthem output still at 1080p/24) or leave the player at 1080i/60 and switch the Anthem to 1080p/60 output. And keep tabs on this thread as we get more feedback on the /24 stuff with the new software.


Early reports are that 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 seems to be working pretty well but 480i/60 to 1080p/24 is not quite there yet. 1080p/24 to 1080p/24 and anything to 1080p/60 should both work fine.

--Bob


----------



## buddy4711




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It should, but I'm not sure we know 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion is working quite right yet even in the V1.12s stuff. Try it and see if you get any "stuttering" of the image during movie playback. If not, then you are fine.
> 
> 
> If so, then switch the player to 1080p/24 output if it will do that (Anthem output still at 1080p/24) or leave the player at 1080i/60 and switch the Anthem to 1080p/60 output. And keep tabs on this thread as we get more feedback on the /24 stuff with the new software.
> 
> 
> Early reports are that 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 seems to be working pretty well but 480i/60 to 1080p/24 is not quite there yet. 1080p/24 to 1080p/24 and anything to 1080p/60 should both work fine.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob,


I can confirm that with this setting 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 it looked outstanding yesternight when watching TROY from HD DVD. No stuttering at all and brilliant clear picture. I think it is better than in a movie theater! just outstanding....

BTW, the toshi cannot do the 24 hz until they will make another firmware upgrade in autumn this year.


BTW (2), somewhere I read that a HD DVD's native resolution is always 1080i. is that correct? because if so, then it would make more sense IMO to let the statement do the de-interlacing und upscaling towards 1080p/24. Or did I misunderstand something in this respect?


regards, juerg


----------



## buddy4711




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Contact Anthem tech support. If it turns out to be a faulty HDMI port they will likely swap out a new unit for you through the dealer (i.e., you won't have to return your current unit until the new unit arrives).
> 
> 
> However, it is pretty unusual to have HDMI audio but no HDMI video. HDMI audio is not a separate signal. The audio is multiplexed inside the video. So there may be something else going on here.
> 
> 
> There have been previous instances where SOFTWARE was the cause of loss of audio from the Toshiba XA2 player for example.
> 
> 
> So explain what's going on to Anthem tech support and give them a chance to sort this out for you.
> 
> --Bob



i spoke with my dealer and also the main importer here in switz and they told me that it is not that uncommon that a HDMI jack goes bad since these jacks and plugs are ridiculously sensitive and fragile. he will replace the whole platine with all the 4 hdmi input jacks once in a while. in teh meantime since I need only 2 hdmi inputs I enjoy watching and listening through nr 4.

regards, juerg


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BTW (2), somewhere I read that a HD DVD's native resolution is always 1080i. is that correct?



I think NATIVE is the wrong word.


The HD DVDs are 1080p native. The Toshiba players

as you mentioned can only output 1080i and the

new XA2 converts 1080i to 1080p/60.


None of the HD DVD players as yet transfer the

1080p/24 on the DVD to HDMI.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i spoke with my dealer and also the main importer here in switz and they told me that it is not that uncommon that a HDMI jack goes bad since these jacks and plugs are ridiculously sensitive and fragile. he will replace the whole platine with all the 4 hdmi input jacks once in a while. in teh meantime since I need only 2 hdmi inputs I enjoy watching and listening through nr 4.
> 
> regards, juerg



They are correct, but as I said it is unusual to have an HDMI jack failure result in audio but no video since the audio is multiplexed into the blanking intervals of the video signal. Usually a hardware failure would result in loss of BOTH HDMI audio and video.


So there could still be a software or settings issue causing this, but if they are willing to swap out the unit then that's probably easiest.


---------------------------------------------------


The first thing to do to determine if you have a damaged jack is to take a flashlight and examine each socket and each plug for pin damage -- being careful of course as you remove and reinsert the plugs. Be aware that a damaged plug can easily damage a previously good socket, so don't just plug it in to another socket to see what happens! If a plug shows signs of pin damage discard and replace it. If a socket shows signs of pin damage it might be fixable or you might have to replace it.


A common reason of HDMI signal failure, particularly if you are doing 1080p stuff, is that the cable is not quite up to the task of handling that high a bandwidth given the length of the cable run. Upgrading/shortening the cable could be the best solution. Depending upon the quality of the connection between the plugs and sockets, a marginal cable can work in one socket but not in another socket simply due to slight variations in signal loss at the connection.


Another common cause of HDMI signal failure is that the cable is not fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket. The weight of the cable may have shifted the plug to one side. It only takes a little to lose the signal. If holding the plug in the socket restores the signal then you may need to support the weight of the cable somehow. Thinner, lighter-weight HDMI cables are less likely to cause this problem.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> does this makes sense? I must confess I didn't read all the 270+ pages in this thread to find out the following:
> 
> 
> my equipment: Toshiba HD-XE1 via HDMI to Anthem Statement D2 via HDMI to JVC HD1 (=RS1).
> 
> 
> I have set the following input - output resolutions:
> 
> 
> from Toshi to D2: [email protected]
> 
> from D2 to JVC: [email protected]
> 
> 
> does this makes sense if playing a hd dvd? thanks



There is no gain in sending to the RS1 1080p24 vs 1080p60. Why are you doing this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is no gain in sending to the RS1 1080p24 vs 1080p60. Why are you doing this?



Hang on! I thought the RS1 was known to accept /24 and display it at a refresh rate that's a multiple of 24. Not true?

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hang on! I thought the RS1 was known to accept /24 and display it at a refresh rate that's a multiple of 24. Not true?
> 
> --Bob



This is true with Blu Ray but doesn't work that well with HD DVD yet.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is true with Blu Ray but doesn't work that well with HD DVD yet.



OK, so I haven't gone crazier than normal yet.


Apparently it is working for Buddy4711 with V1.12s, at least for one movie. As I said in the reply to him: Try 1080i/60 from the Toshiba XE1 to the Anthem and 1080p/24 from the Anthem to the RS1 and if there is no "stuttering" in the image then he's in good shape.

--Bob


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is true with Blu Ray but doesn't work that well with HD DVD yet.



It's not been working (1080i->1080p24 conversion and display at an integer multiple on a capable display) due to bugs in the conversion which seem to be widespread and not limited to Anthem/Gennum. The result has been a stuttering or jerky image. It's nothing to do with HDDVD per se other than the fact that no dedicated HDDVD players yet output 1080p24 directly. Early reports with V1.12x sound promising that this may now be working. Fingers crossed.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i spoke with my dealer and also the main importer here in switz and they told me that it is not that uncommon that a HDMI jack goes bad since these jacks and plugs are ridiculously sensitive and fragile. he will replace the whole platine with all the 4 hdmi input jacks once in a while. in teh meantime since I need only 2 hdmi inputs I enjoy watching and listening through nr 4.
> 
> regards, juerg



I have to agree with Bob here that there is a good chance that the HDMI ports are fine. I had the exact thing you are seeing happen to me under a previous version of software. I did the same thing you did (moved the cable and it worked). However, now several months later the port is working just fine with several configuration changes (unplug and replug HDMI ports). It could very well be a Software bug that has just not been fixed yet.


----------



## jluloff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lucky you were reading the thread tonight. Thanks for the quick reply. So why doen't this happen to everyone with the original firmware? Why would some units be prone to it and not others? It is very annoying that is does this, especially for the wife who wants things as simple as possible and who also will not understand why a $6700 piece of gear is acting this way if it is not defective.
> 
> 
> Sorry for the rant, but I don't want to have to live with this bug until Anthem addresses it.




I was having the same issue with my AVM-50 (1.11e) that was turning off just a couple secs after I powered it up. It would turn itself off just before the amps would be tiggered on. I was having some low voltage issues (108-114 range) with my power company and was thinking that might have been the problem but I was so pissed about it I had the dealer get me a new AVM-50 also. The power situation was resolved and I have new AVM-50 (1.11e) so not sure which fixed the problem but I have not had it happen since. I also had them stagger the tiggers for the amps ...now the MCA50 comes on 1st then 2-3 secs later the MCA-20 come on instead of both coming on same time. All is fine now!!


I would suggest that you make sure you have good voltage, maybe the triggers is causing some issue but not sure and would possibly get a new unit.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Richard,
> 
> Many folks with HTPC HDMI problems have found the Gefen DVI Detective product helpful. This is a gizmo that you place between the HTPC and the D2. It tackles a number of common EDID (configuration information) and handshaking problems that are pretty much peculiar to HTPC setups. EXAMPLE: The graphics card boots up in one resolution and then changes to another resolution without going through another handshake.
> 
> 
> As for your particular problem with resolutions, what resolution would you LIKE to be able to send to the D2 from your HTPC, and what's the "native" resolution of your display?
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that some displays are not willing to accept their true native resolution as a valid input resolution.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The basic approach to this stuff is to separate input problems from output problems.
> 
> 
> The first thing to do is to establish the Setup / Video Output settings in the D2 and the basic level settings in your TV that work best for your TV. You do this using the Anthem's internally generated test charts. This is independent of any sources, and in fact you'll probably find it less confusing if you just set the D2 to an input that doesn't happen to have anything connected.
> 
> 
> Only AFTER you've got that Video Output stuff were you want it should you worry about getting the inputs set up correctly. At that point, you KNOW your D2 knows how to talk to your TV correctly, and so any problems that come up must be on the input side of things.
> 
> 
> See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post linked off the first post of this thread.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks for the response Bob (as usual).


Let me try and answer your questions:


Firstly to be complete about the signal path:

I have a newly built HTPC with Vista Premium and the aforementioned nvidia 8800 GTS card. I currently connect the HTPC to the D2 or directly via a DVI to HDMI cable. Alternately I have played with the Component out from the HDTV which has mixed results as well, but in any case I am focused on getting the DVI -> HDMI working. (TV is an HP Pavilion 65" MD6580n)


With regard to the boot sequence there are definitely at least two resolutions happening there. I literally cannot even make out the text/image during the boot sequence when the HTPS is connected to my TV either directly or through the D2. In both cases it flickers and I see about 1/4 of the actual graphic all blown up to fill the screen.


For example when the windows actually starts to load, and you see the progress bar graphic, I only see about half of the progress bar and it is in the very bottom right hand corner of the screen.


My TV accepts 1080p and that is its native resolution. I have everything else going through the D2 and outputting at 1920 x 1080p 60hz with no issues and it all looks amazing. I have checked this against what the D2 says it is outputting and the TV definitely likes to get 1920 x 1080p @ 60hz just fine (Unless it originates from the HTPC that is hahaa)


I would like to output 1080i/p from the HTPC to support the full resolution of several games (Ex: World Of Warcraft). I am not sure the card supports 1080p according to their support folks even though it offers 1920 x 1080 @ various frequencies including 29, 30, 50, 60.


If I try 1920 x 1080 @ 30Hz I can get an image to pass, but it is zoomed in so that the outer 1/6-1/7th of the Vista desktop extends past the edges of the screen. (Both direct and through the D2) - EDIT: If I choose the PC mode for HDMI 1, then I get a windowed image with a 5-6 inch black broder rather than the zoomed image.


If I try 1920 x 1080 @ 60hz I get diagonal scrawling and a completely unintelligible image. (Both direct and through the D2. Well through the D2 I think I get it briefly then I lose the image to a blank screen) - EDIT: If I choose the PC mode for HDMI 1, then I get a windowed image with a 5-6 inch black broder rather than the zoomed image.


If I try 1920 x 1080 @ 59hz I can get the image directly to the TV and I can get an image that still does not quite pixel map to the full screen 1080p as best I remember the last time I tried this setting. In any case that 59hz isn't compatible with the games so is no use. Haven't tried it through the D2 so maybe this is the answer. If the D2 will take the 1920 x 1080 @59hz and output it as clean 1920 x 1080p then I might be good to go if it manages to pixel map in the process.


The TV even has a PC input mode on HDMI 1 that worked perfectly to pixel map 1080p from my old 1/4 the price ATI card lol. When I try this setting directly I get a windowed image with about a 6-8 inch black border around the desktop for some reason in almost all resolutions.


So far the best I have been able to manage is to sent the TV directly via HDMI one resolution below 1920 x 1080 (17xx x 9xx @ 60hz) and choosing the normal (instead of PC for the input) I can get an image that fills all but about 1-2 inches with a black border for the 1-2 inches.


Given that my old cheapo card could pixel map perfectly out of the box by simply selecting the correct resolution I am really at a loss for why this is so complicated hahaa.


There are so many permutations and combinations to try I may literally have to log on here while trying to troubleshoot one night hahaa. I am a project manager so I generally try and take a similar approach to problem solving that you do in which I try and eliminate possibilities or cycle through the available options. I haven't yet tried all the possibilities I had gone through when trying to optimize the HTPC with the TV directly with the D2 in the chain. I guess I was naively hoping that by simply having the D2 in the middle it would magically sort out whatever was coming from the HTPC and tame it to 1920 x 1080p 60hz hahaa.


As for the Gefen I may go ahead and order it in any case just to try and eliminate another possible issue from the various possibilities.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. Another interesting thing is that the PC/video card correctly recognizes both the HDTV (As MD6580n) and the D2 (As Statement D2) whichever is connected directly via HDMI.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Richard,

I don't think I'm going to be able to help you with this. It sounds like your graphics card is putting out unusual video timings which are confusing both the TV and the D2. This MAY be due to confusion during the boot up HDMI handshake that the Gefen DVI Detective can fix for you.


Your best bet would probably be to ask over in the Home Theater Computers forum here whether anyone knows the correct settings for that particular graphics card to get it to spit out a standard (i.e., HDTV style) 1920x1080i/60Hz, or a typical home theater style 1920x1080p/60Hz.


1080p requires a high bandwidth HDMI cable (same wires, fancier, more expensive design). Make sure your HDMI cables are speced for 1080p.


Also Component video on the Anthem is limited to 1080p/30Hz if you want to "process" the video. Component 1080p/60Hz can be "passed through" UNprocessed.


Only HDMI 1080p/60 can be processed by the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes I have the same misbegotten piece off trash Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR. Deep sigh....
> 
> 
> Odds are the problem is simply that the 3412 has decided all by itself to change it's video output settings and is now all confused.
> 
> 
> Power off the 3412 with its remote. Press Menu on the 3412 remote to go into the "special" menu (use its front panel display as necessary). Change the output resolutions (NOTE: Even if they appear correct, change them to something else, and then back again). Be sure to go into the second level HDMI settings menu and also set the output to HDMI and YCbCr 4:4:4.
> 
> 
> Hit Power to save these settings, and then again to power up the 3412 again.
> 
> 
> If that does not do it for you, upgrade the HDMI cable from the 3412 to the D2. Do this even if you don't think it will make a difference. Buy the cable from a place with an easy return policy just in case it doesn't fix the problem.
> 
> 
> Make sure both cable ends are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets -- no strain to any side.
> 
> 
> If that still doesn't do it, go to your cable provider and swap out the 3412 for another one. Make sure the 3412 is well ventilated to keep it from heating up.
> 
> 
> Honestly, it is beyond me how they can charge money for this box.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> On the D2 side, be sure you have "disabled" any of the "overlayed" inputs you are not using (i.e., TV2, TV3, etc.) so that you can't select one by mistake. Do this in the first line of Setup / Source Setup for each of them.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you really meant that you upgraded to the "original" V1.11 software (as available for download from the Anthem web site), it is possible that a latter version of software from Anthem tech support will do a better job of correcting for the poor HDMI implemenation in the 3412.
> 
> 
> ===========================================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: If you did your Anthem upgrade while any HDMI cable was still attached to the Anthem, and if wall power was turned on for any device at the other end of those HDMI cables (in PARTICULAR for the 3412), then the odds are your Anthem software install didn't complete correctly. See the posts on software installation linked off the first post of this thread. It is OK to re-install the new Anthem software on top of itself to fix this.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob. I tried all and still no go. Nick is sending me v1.12s to see if that fixes the problem. I had just updated from version 1.10 to 1.11.


By the way, last week I swapped out my comcast unit for another and the customer service rep told me that a new version would be out in a few weeks. Have you heard anything about this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I tried all and still no go. Nick is sending me v1.12s to see if that fixes the problem. I had just updated from version 1.10 to 1.11.
> 
> 
> By the way, last week I swapped out my comcast unit for another and the customer service rep told me that a new version would be out in a few weeks. Have you heard anything about this?



I don't know of any hardware change, but Comcast is starting to roll out the Tivo software for the Motorola boxes in some markets.

--Bob


----------



## brado32

So, new avm50 arrived today (software load 1.20) and it works !!!!


wow so much nicer when it actually outputs something out the hdmi out










now back to the top of the thread for some tweaking










-Brad


----------



## RROSEN

No worries Bob, I realize its a bit of a dogs breakfast.


I have a high end Monster HDMI (left over from before I know any better) from the D2 to the TV and Monoprice HDMI cables everywhere else (except for my DVI -> HDMI cable which I guess could be part of the issue.) I can try swapping that out.


I am in the process of ordering the DVI Detective as well (apparently the Distributor here can't get an answer from Gefen on shipping prices as easily as I can check the web site) and I will check out the HTPC threads. I have previously posted on the graphics card forums and gone round robin with tech support with no success.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Any of you guys who get V1.2 software, it would be much appreciated if you would see if there is a changes history you could post here. Typically Anthem doesn't include lists of bug fixes in the manual, but there may very well be a new features page. [There will probably be a bug fix list available when the new software finally shows up on the web site for downloading.]


I'm presuming that V1.2 is simply the finalized version of V1.12s. I.e., it has things like two separate Video Output configurations that you can assign on a source by source basis, but does NOT give access to the Room EQ functions. If V1.2 does NOT include two Video Output configurations, then it may turn out it is simply a "finalized" version of V1.11e, renumbered for manufacturing purposes. From the standpoint of answering questions here, that's VERY different.


And of course we'll want to know which bugs are fixed so we can cross them off the list of possible reasons when folks ask about issues here.


It would also be useful to know if 480i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz conversion is working correctly (as well as whether 1080i/60 to 1080p/24). We'll also have to learn again what works and doesn't work with Frame Lock.


Unfortunately, since it looks like the only people getting V1.2 at the moment are new owners, it will take a while before most of us who answer questions here can catch up and be in a position to know what's "known to work" and what may be a new problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, new avm50 arrived today (software load 1.20) and it works !!!!
> 
> 
> wow so much nicer when it actually outputs something out the hdmi out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now back to the top of the thread for some tweaking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Brad



And that undoubtedly explains why these guys have been scratching at the door wanting to get out of here and over to you:


.....









.....









.....









.....









.....










--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

Hmmm, so how do I paste the happy bouncy guys?


I mean I really feel happy bouncy, but I can't figure out how to express myself properly hahaa.


Bob I will check the manual tonight. 1, to make sure I actually have v.1.2 (which I am pretty sure I do) and 2, to see if there are any version notes.


I am not sure my HDTV will accept 1080p/24 so not sure if I can test that out for you, but I will check in any case.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No worries Bob, I realize its a bit of a dogs breakfast.
> 
> 
> I have a high end Monster HDMI (left over from before I know any better) from the D2 to the TV and Monoprice HDMI cables everywhere else (except for my DVI -> HDMI cable which I guess could be part of the issue.) I can try swapping that out.
> 
> 
> I am in the process of ordering the DVI Detective as well (apparently the Distributor here can't get an answer from Gefen on shipping prices as easily as I can check the web site) and I will check out the HTPC threads. I have previously posted on the graphics card forums and gone round robin with tech support with no success.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard




I'm running an 8800GTS with no problems, but I'm not using Vista, I'm using XP Pro. I also use the Gefen DVI Detective but this is just to prevent losing sync with the computer when switching sources or shutting down the D2. My guess is that it is a Vista issue and possibly a driver problem.


----------



## brado32

Bob, havent cracked the manual yet (im a guy) .. But I did confirm when setting it up today that it did in fact have two video output configurations (now option #1 instead of #8) on the menu


thanks for the bouncy guys










-Brad


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm, so how do I paste the happy bouncy guys?
> 
> 
> I mean I really feel happy bouncy, but I can't figure out how to express myself properly hahaa.



Here's a batch to get you started! (Just hit Quote for this post, and you'll see the magic incantation to make more.)










==\\

....









====\\

.........









======\\

.............









========\\

..................











--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, havent cracked the manual yet (im a guy) .. But I did confirm when setting it up today that it did in fact have two video output configurations (now option #1 instead of #8) on the menu
> 
> 
> thanks for the bouncy guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Brad



OK. Then that means V1.2 is finalized V1.12s. Good!

--Bob


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Use the email address given at the top of the first post in this thread.
> 
> 
> I suggest you include your unit model # (D2 or AVM50), serial #, date and location of purchase, version of software currently installed (press the Select key once on the remote and read this in the front panel display), nature of the problem, and what steps you may have already taken to isolate the cause of the problem. If the problem is specific to one or two sources, give the make and model of the source and the software version running on the source as well.
> 
> 
> Again, although it appears there is an Anthem bug of some sort at work here with this spate of reports of "clicks", the most common cause of such noise in other hardware is an external source of EMI/RFI interference -- such as USB or other computer devices, or switching noise from things like dimmers or appliances.
> 
> 
> It is easy to eliminate this possibility. Verify that you can hear the noise in headphones connected to the Anthem, and then move ONE source device (only), the Anthem, and the headphones to an entirely different location (preferably a different building -- but at least a different room and power circuit). Hook up just one cable between them (and power of course) -- no amps/speakers, no other devices -- and see if the clicks are still present when listening through the headphones. If so, the problem appears to be in the Anthem. If not, then you have some external interference source and you can now start working to find it.
> 
> --Bob




Bob respectufully speaking, sounds like some of what you or anthem is asking is just plain unreasonable, moving the unit to another building? we all know there is a problem, Im a tech myself and I know what amount of troubleshooting is considered reasonable, sounds like a whole lot of jumping through hoops to come back to the same result that there is something going on with the Anthem, agrsiv95 and I have basically the same setup even down to the projector and screen although my unit is A D1 which was sent in by my dealer and upgraded to D2 status, he and I have the same clicking/poping issue, we live about an an hour and a half from each other so thats enough to tell me that its not a power or interference issue, this is getting a little frustrating these clicks are starting to get on my nerves, thanks for the info I will see if I can get in contact with Anthem


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have to agree with Bob here that there is a good chance that the HDMI ports are fine. I had the exact thing you are seeing happen to me under a previous version of software. I did the same thing you did (moved the cable and it worked). However, now several months later the port is working just fine with several configuration changes (unplug and replug HDMI ports). It could very well be a Software bug that has just not been fixed yet.



Yes, I also had this happen a few times with older firmware. Had a DVD player that was not very HDCP-compliant, and it would lock everything up. When I'd change HDMI inputs, it work work again for awhile. Later, after I threw away the DVD player, I rechecked the HDMI inputs and they worked fine again with other equipment.


It's a shame that HDMI, while a good idea on paper, is such a mess in reality. Voodoo skills and lots of troubleshooting required. When it works, it's wonderful. When it doesn't - good luck and better budget a bunch of time...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob respectufully speaking, sounds like some of what you or anthem is asking is just plain unreasonable, moving the unit to another building? we all know there is a problem, Im a tech myself and I know what amount of troubleshooting is considered reasonable, sounds like a whole lot of jumping through hoops to come back to the same result that there is something going on with the Anthem, agrsiv95 and I have basically the same setup even down to the projector and screen although my unit is A D1 which was sent in by my dealer and upgraded to D2 status, he and I have the same clicking/poping issue, we live about an an hour and a half from each other so thats enough to tell me that its not a power or interference issue, this is getting a little frustrating these clicks are starting to get on my nerves, thanks for the info I will see if I can get in contact with Anthem



By all means contact Anthem. There's certainly no reason to have to live with this problem. And it is clear from other posters here that it IS possible to get "click" free audio from these sources and the Anthems.


If you read back on this issue a few pages you'll note at least one poster with a similar issue tracked it down to interference from his computer setup. RFI/EMI interference can be tricky stuff, and the whole point of moving the Anthem was to eliminate that as a possibility so that you don't go through the process of putting in a new unit only to discover the problem is still there.


But there's also at least one clear cut case posted here where the problem was isolated to the Anthem itself. So it's also not unreasonable to assume the problem is in your Anthem to begin with.


By the way, I am not Anthem. I don't represent them, nor do I have any special relationship with them. Any suggestions I make, for what they are worth, are entirely my own.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I tried all and still no go. Nick is sending me v1.12s to see if that fixes the problem. I had just updated from version 1.10 to 1.11.
> 
> 
> By the way, last week I swapped out my comcast unit for another and the customer service rep told me that a new version would be out in a few weeks. Have you heard anything about this?



Since you updated only to the "original" V1.11, it is conceivable that you've been bitten by the infamous 1080i/1080p bug.


I discounted that because you were previously on V1.10, (which also has that bug) and if the Comcast box was going to trigger it in your setup I'd expect you to have already had problems in V1.10. The bug was fixed around V1.11c.


Here's the test. Set *ALL* of your sources to output no higher than 720p to the Anthem -- or just turn them off. Set the Anthem to output no higher than 720p to your TV. Then power cycle the Anthem (this is necessary to clear the problem if it has already been triggered). If things now work correctly, then the 1080i/1080p bug is a real possibility and the new software Nick is sending you will fix it.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, since it looks like the only people getting V1.2 at the moment are new owners, it will take a while before most of us who answer questions here can catch up and be in a position to know what's "known to work" and what may be a new problem.
> 
> --Bob




Why doesn't Bob ask Mr. Nick what is UP with Version 1.2


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> By all means contact Anthem. There's certainly no reason to have to live with this problem. And it is clear from other posters here that it IS possible to get "click" free audio from these sources and the Anthems.
> 
> 
> If you read back on this issue a few pages you'll note at least one poster with a similar issue tracked it down to interference from his computer setup. RFI/EMI interference can be tricky stuff, and the whole point of moving the Anthem was to eliminate that as a possibility so that you don't go through the process of putting in a new unit only to discover the problem is still there.
> 
> 
> But there's also at least one clear cut case posted here where the problem was isolated to the Anthem itself. So it's also not unreasonable to assume the problem is in your Anthem to begin with.
> 
> 
> By the way, I am not Anthem. I don't represent them, nor do I have any special relationship with them. Any suggestions I make, for what they are worth, are entirely my own.
> 
> --Bob




Bob I do know that youre not a rep for Athem, youre suggestions are well noted however I will wait ti see what Anthem wants to do here, I have emailed them with my situation and with my v1.11 firmware I think the first logical step would be to upgrade me to another firmware rev my reservation however is that I might have some new issue that I didnt have before but these clicks sometimes are too much to take, sounds like a geiger counter, thanks again for the info


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why doesn't Bob ask Mr. Nick what is UP with Version 1.2



I cherish my ignorance. (grin!)


Besides, we have such good sources here already! I wonder what the holdup is with posting the new software and manual on the web site?

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK. Then that means V1.2 is finalized V1.12s. Good!
> 
> --Bob



I want it!!!


----------



## rmarcoot

I received a reply from Nick to my email. He commented that they were exploring various possibilities for the cause of this to determine if it is hardware or software related and that they would get back to me as soon as they determined the next step.


He also wanted me to be sure that I had adequate ventilation around the D2 thinking that overheating could cause this problem. I was confident that I did have enough ventilation but removed the D2 and placed it on a wood floor so that there was nothing anywhere near the unit to obstruct air flow. The clicking remains on the PS3 with both Blu Ray and standard DVDs.


The good news is that they are aware of the problem and working to find a resolution. I know we all wish them speedy success in this endeavor










Randy


----------



## agrsiv95

I called today to explain my issues with the clicking and have not heard back from them. I have also tried another PS3 and it is still there. I have noted the heat issue is right around 96 degrees for the drop outs to begin. If it is under 96, there are no drop outs but the clicking is there on first start up and 74 degrees. I have also developed the power cycling issue on start up and had seen someone mention that this problem was gone with 1.12s so I hope that takes care of the clicking as well.


Jeremy


Edited to add: I also remember seeing in one of the Onkyo threads that the were having the same clicking issues over pcm. In the main PS3 thread there are numorus people running PCM and not one problem so I don't think it is source based.


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have also developed the power cycling issue on start up and had seen someone mention that this problem was gone with 1.12s so I hope that takes care of the clicking as well.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Jeremy,


I have version 1.20 which may or may not be 1.12s so I wouldn't count on that solving your problem.


Randy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jeremy,
> 
> 
> I have version 1.20 which may or may not be 1.12s so I wouldn't count on that solving your problem.
> 
> 
> Randy



3no is, I believe, running V1.12s and still has his clicks. So if there's a software fix in the cards, it aint out there yet.


The overheating suggestion is likely due to an earlier issue. With V1.11g it was noticed that the PS3, uniquely, caused overheating of the video processor in the Anthem -- they symptom being repeated video shutdown and restart. An external cooling fan was the workaround. Anthem has apparently found a software fix for that in V1.12s since we've had reports that folks who needed fans no longer need them So I imagine they think there might be a related problem here.


The theory at the time was that the HDMI V1.3 output of the PS3 was doing something that gave the Anthem video processor fits. There has since been no explanation of what Anthem found or how they fixed it in software. I think they are just exploring possibilities with this ventilation question.

--Bob


----------



## Roomraider

Thanx to all who responded, I powered up the BDP-S300 completely, then powered up the Anthem and "walla" just like magic, I got an OSD, you were all right. I can switch sources and even turn off the Anthem as long as the BDP-S300 hasn't been powered off anytime during the process. Looks like I will just disable the front panel display and leave the BDP-S300 permanently on until Sony admits there is a problem and codes an update, that is unless someone here believes it's not safe to do.

NOTICE* Public Apology goes out to Nick @ Sonic for me even contacting him about a known Sony issue, but when ya don't know, ya just don't know, won't happen again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanx to all who responded, I powered up the BDP-S300 completely, then powered up the Anthem and "walla" just like magic, I got an OSD, you were all right. I can switch sources and even turn off the Anthem as long as the BDP-S300 hasn't been powered off anytime during the process. Looks like I will just disable the front panel display and leave the BDP-S300 permanently on until Sony admits there is a problem and codes an update, that is unless someone here believes it's not safe to do.
> 
> NOTICE* Public Apology goes out to Nick @ Sonic for me even contacting him about a known Sony issue, but when ya don't know, ya just don't know, won't happen again.



Believe me, Anthem is very used to hearing about issues that actually are the fault of some other product.


Perhaps uniquely, they actually put engineering effort into trying to develop workarounds to other people's problems. I wouldn't be at all surprised if Anthem comes up with a software workaround for this particular Sony problem before Sony fixes the actual problem itself. That may not be possible in this case, but Anthem has surprised us in the past just this way.

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 3no is, I believe, running V1.12s and still has his clicks.



I am.




> Quote:
> The overheating suggestion is likely due to an earlier issue. With V1.11g it was noticed that the PS3, uniquely, caused overheating of the video processor in the Anthem -- they symptom being repeated video shutdown and restart. An external cooling fan was the workaround. Anthem has apparently found a software fix for that in V1.12s since we've had reports that folks who needed fans no longer need them So I imagine they think there might be a related problem here.



I also had severe D2 overheating issues associated with the PS3 until I radically increased ventilation, including changing from free convection to forced air cooling. Maybe the heating overstressed other components in the D2 in addition to causing the VP crashes and that's where the clicks are coming from. Just speculation.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also had severe D2 overheating issues associated with the PS3 until I radically increased ventilation, including changing from free convection to forced air cooling. Maybe the heating overstressed other components in the D2 in addition to causing the VP crashes and that's where the clicks are coming from. Just speculation.



Interesting data point. I also have the PS3, but with no clicks. However, I have been running with a Rube Goldberg (pun intended) fan setup from after week 1. I am anal about heat (don't like it, never have). Mine is room temperature







.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting data point. I also have the PS3, but with no clicks. However, I have been running with a Rube Goldberg (pun intended) fan setup from after week 1. I am anal about heat (don't like it, never have). Mine is room temperature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



I will continue to run with forced air cooling, even though the PS3 heat problems have been declared solved. The D2 still runs hot (for consumer electronics), and mine is located in a rack in the rear of the theater where a little fan noise isn't going to be distracting.


I use a 120mm silent fan laying face up on top of the D2 over the centerline vent slots so it pulls hot air out of the D2 (and cool air into the bottom slots). It's a 12VDC fan that I'm powering off a scavenged 1A wall wart (so I can power a few other fans as well), but as this fan only draws 100ma one might be able to power it directly from the #3 trigger output on the D2 which is spec'ed at 200ma.


----------



## 3Dfx




> Quote:
> I wouldn't be at all surprised if Anthem comes up with a software workaround for this particular Sony problem before Sony fixes the actual problem itself.



I expect that to happen about the same time they come out with a fix for the Pioneer BDP-HD1 issue, which isn't any time soon. Of course Pioneer has yet to address this well known issue either.


I say that because I can't count the number of times I've read "There should be a fix soon", regarding this and other issues that remain unresolved.


----------



## drsimnal

I carefully researched this forum to find out which usb-serial cable to buy to do the firmware update. I bought the keyspan product. It arrived yesterday; unfortunately it will not fit onto the rs232 on the back of my D2. It seems to hit the audio outputs below, or something. So, before I spend another $30-40 could someone please tell me the exact product they used that was successful? I have a compaq laptop with XP.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The supplements are not encoded as 1080p24, they are probably SD at 60hz. They Anthem is losing synch because the Samsung is probably wigging out too.



Wow. Didn't see that one coming. How bizarre a way to do things.


So does this mean that we all would have to change our video settings to watch the extras??? Seems pretty crazy when you think about it.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drsimnal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I carefully researched this forum to find out which usb-serial cable to buy to do the firmware update. I bought the keyspan product. It arrived yesterday; unfortunately it will not fit onto the rs232 on the back of my D2. It seems to hit the audio outputs below, or something. So, before I spend another $30-40 could someone please tell me the exact product they used that was successful? I have a compaq laptop with XP.



The USB adapter is NOT Intended to plug into the back

of the D2 - just get a 1-to-1 RS-2323 cable to go from

The Keyspan to the D2.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow. Didn't see that one coming. How bizarre a way to do things.
> 
> 
> So does this mean that we all would have to change our video settings to watch the extras??? Seems pretty crazy when you think about it.



If you have a Pioneer Player - as an example - in

Direct Mode - the output will track the changes

automatically.


The settings of the D2 will also automatically

adjust the conversion process on the fly.


----------



## barhoram

My local blockbuster just started carry Blu-Ray rentals...so now I'm looking at players to match up with my D2. Is there anything I would be missing going with the new Panasonic? Dmp-bd10a? I've read the thread...but most there seem to be using it's analog out's. How does this player stack up to the others over HDMI?


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you have a Pioneer Player - as an example - in
> 
> Direct Mode - the output will track the changes
> 
> automatically.
> 
> 
> The settings of the D2 will also automatically
> 
> adjust the conversion process on the fly.



Samsung clearly doesn't, unfortunately.









Beautiful video output, but clearly finicky. And what an ugly remote.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The USB adapter is NOT Intended to plug into the back
> 
> of the D2 - just get a 1-to-1 RS-232 cable to go from
> 
> The Keyspan to the D2.



Ditto. Works great that way, plus gives you length to attach to the laptop/computer.


----------



## drsimnal

Ok, thanks!


----------



## kal

Hi guys,


Anyone have the Canadian MSRP's for the D2 and P5? (And anything else 'Anthem' for that matter)...


The US MSRP's are listed here:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...50_d2_comp.pdf 


I'm shopping for a D2/P5 now and want to understand a bit more what sort of discounts I'm getting...


Kal


----------



## RROSEN

Even though I think it was already confirmed, my D2 does have version 1.2x installed. The display and the cover of the manual both clearly state " 1.2x ".


The manual does not include any release notes (IE. What has changed) that I can see. It does as someone reported have two separate video out configurations. There is also no menu path that I could find for the calibrations kit so I guess that comes with the kit/FW upgrade)


By the way, I am working through posts starting earlier this month and I saw something about a calibration support group. I live in Mississauga and would be interested in any plans.


I plan on buying the Calibration kit when it is available as well, I have a laptop as well. I am really looking forward to this as my basement HT is not exactly what you would call anything near standard dimensions with the back left and right opening up to varying degrees ;-)


Also a quick question. I am noticing a significant drop in volume at similar volume control levels compared to my previous AVM20. For example I could listen to HD-DVD through my HD-A1 to the AVM20 via either Analogue (6) or Optical Digital and really get the room rocking at between -5 to -10 whereas I am finding that with the D2 through HDMI I am at 0 or even +5 to get the same impact.


Is this a factor of the PCM via HDMI? I haven't tried using the Analogue or Optical yet, but I guess that is one way to try and isolate it to the HDMI path.


It is noticeable enough that I am considering getting Balanced XLR cables for the 6db boost which might be enough to offset things.


With that in mind, is there a drop in volume level between HDMI and Analogue or Optical digital?


Does going with the XLR to my MCA 50/20 make sense for the boost (Will I even notice a boost?) I don't need the XLR's for the distance that is for sure.


Should I not even sweat the fact that I may need to go to 0, +5 or even +10 to get what I consider reference HT volumes?


Cheers,


Richard



































PS. Your probably right about Vista being the issue with my 8800 GTS card Argghhh. What a pain. I had the exact same issue with the ATI 2900h before it and switched to the Nvidia hoping for a better result.


I will continue my search in the HTPC area I guess. I could still return the card, but I guess it probably wouldn't make much difference.


----------



## cosmos5861

I just got my AVM 50







! Silly question. Since I spent all my money on AVM50 .. I wanted to know if it is possible to have AVM50 connect directly into speakers that are powered?? I am trying to avoid buying an amp for now.


Any suggestions.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Richard,

The PCM tracks from the A1 are probably just set to a lower reference level. This could be a design flaw in the A1 (check with other A1 owners here -- there were some complaints about some players) or could be by design to take advantage of the increased dynamic range.


If it bothers you, just change your target SPL level for the Anthem's internal test tones to something higher. Then you can turn down the Main volume when playing other sources to compensate.


Also, make sure you have disabled any speaker configuration management within the A1 itself. If there's not an on/off setting for this, then within the A1, set all speakers to "large" and specify you have a subwoofer (whether or not these settings are true). Set all speakers to the same distance (any distance will do so long as they are all the same). And set all speakers to 0db relative volume -- no gain nor cut for any of them. This will keep the A1 from altering its output based on speaker settings. The Anthem itself will do all that's necessary of that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my AVM 50
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! Silly question. Since I spent all my money on AVM50 .. I wanted to know if it is possible to have AVM50 connect directly into speakers that are powered?? I am trying to avoid buying an amp for now.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions.



Yes. Speakers with built-in power amps accept a "line-level" input (i.e., the normal outputs of the AVM50) just like any normal audio amp would.


Even folks with audio amps will often take advantage of this when connecting a subwoofer, which typically has it's own, built-in power amp. The subwoofer output of the Anthem connects directly to the line-level input of the subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## cosmos5861




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes. Speakers with built-in power amps accept a "line-level" input (i.e., the normal outputs of the AVM50) just like any normal audio amp would.
> 
> 
> Even folks with audio amps will often take advantage of this when connecting a subwoofer, which typically has it's own, built-in power amp. The subwoofer output of the Anthem connects directly to the line-level input of the subwoofer.
> 
> --Bob



Can someone please recommend a good speaker for this setup? Can I just 2 speakers at first? Any info would be great.


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> Anyone have the Canadian MSRP's for the D2 and P5? (And anything else 'Anthem' for that matter)...
> 
> 
> The US MSRP's are listed here:
> 
> http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...50_d2_comp.pdf
> 
> 
> I'm shopping for a D2/P5 now and want to understand a bit more what sort of discounts I'm getting...
> 
> 
> Kal



Kal - just call a Dealer in your area. They will give you the MSRP on the phone.


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Kal - just call a Dealer in your area. They will give you the MSRP on the phone.



Good point. I forgot to state that when I did this when buying my S8/C5/ADP combo last summer, I got different MSRP's from different dealers. Sure enough, those asking for more money quoted me a higher MSRP.


Today the only 'authorized' dealer in my neck of the woods is the one that quoted high, so I'd like to fact check.


I was hoping to get the 'real' ones here, or I suppose I could also email Anthem directly!


Kal


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My local blockbuster just started carry Blu-Ray rentals...so now I'm looking at players to match up with my D2. Is there anything I would be missing going with the new Panasonic? Dmp-bd10a? I've read the thread...but most there seem to be using it's analog out's. How does this player stack up to the others over HDMI?



The Panny 10a works flawlessly with my AVM-50 via HDMI. No handshaking issues whatsoever. I had the Sony 300 and did the weird work around described in previous posts, but after several days found this to be unacceptable and exchanged it for the Panny. The Panny is on par with my Toshiba XA2 as far as HD content is concerned. I have not played standard DVDs on the Panny as I use the Oppo for them.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since you updated only to the "original" V1.11, it is conceivable that you've been bitten by the infamous 1080i/1080p bug.
> 
> 
> I discounted that because you were previously on V1.10, (which also has that bug) and if the Comcast box was going to trigger it in your setup I'd expect you to have already had problems in V1.10. The bug was fixed around V1.11c.
> 
> 
> Here's the test. Set *ALL* of your sources to output no higher than 720p to the Anthem -- or just turn them off. Set the Anthem to output no higher than 720p to your TV. Then power cycle the Anthem (this is necessary to clear the problem if it has already been triggered). If things now work correctly, then the 1080i/1080p bug is a real possibility and the new software Nick is sending you will fix it.
> 
> --Bob




actually Bob I was on V1.6. I went from V1.6 directly to V1.11 (downloaded from Anthem's website). Ironically, I did this because I would often have connection issue with the comcast unit and I thought updating to V1.11 would eliminate the problem. Instead, it made it worse.


The problem developed after I installed V1.11. Nick then sent me sent me the V1.12s and that has not fixed the problem. I also swapped out Comcast units...they gave me a 3416 this time(had the 3412 before)... and swapped out HDMI cables to cover my bases and the problem still persists. Interestingly, with he installation of V1.12s, my OPPO does not sinc well with the D2 anymore as well (i did not have this problem before). I have reported this back to Nick and am now waiting to hear from him.


Since I went directly from v1.6 to v1.11 do you still think I should troubleshoot for the bug? And even if i do have it shouldn't the installation of v1.12s have fixed it?


thanks


-b


----------



## RROSEN

Bob, just to be clear, when you say


"If it bothers you, just change your target SPL level for the Anthem's internal test tones to something higher. Then you can turn down the Main volume when playing other sources to compensate."


You mean that in the Speaker Level Calibration menu, I should increase the Noise Ref Level a few dB's? This will effect the master volume baseline once I leave the menu?


I guess I could also increase the HD-DVD input level through the "Adjust Input Levels" menu.


My HD-A1 is base-lined as you mentioned. That is still the original setup as I had it for my AVM20 with the only change being setting HDMI to PCM. For some reason it still showed as outputting Bitstream until I also changed the optical Digital to PCM.


I guess it only displays the Optical out format for some reason.


Would going the XLR route help? Would it be worth it in the long run and if so any preferred vendor (by preferred and I means good quality and as cheap as possible hahaa). Monoprice does not sell them otherwise I would have gotten them there as I have have good results with their cables to date.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> actually Bob I was on V1.6. I went from V1.6 directly to V1.11 (downloaded from Anthem's website). Ironically, I did this because I would often have connection issue with the comcast unit and I thought updating to V1.11 would eliminate the problem. Instead, it made it worse.
> 
> 
> The problem developed after I installed V1.11. Nick then sent me sent me the V1.12s and that has not fixed the problem. I also swapped out Comcast units...they gave me a 3416 this time(had the 3412 before)... and swapped out HDMI cables to cover my bases and the problem still persists. Interestingly, with he installation of V1.12s, my OPPO does not sinc well with the D2 anymore as well (i did not have this problem before). I have reported this back to Nick and am now waiting to hear from him.
> 
> 
> Since I went directly from v1.6 to v1.11 do you still think I should troubleshoot for the bug? And even if i do have it shouldn't the installation of v1.12s have fixed it?
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> -b



V1.12s would have fixed that problem, so it's not worth trying that test.


I'm guessing your software install didn't happen correctly.


Did you get any error messages when you installed V1.12s?


It is necessary to have all 4 HDMI input lines and also the HDMI output line inactive while you are doing the software install. For the Comcast box, in particular, that means either physically disconnecting the HDMI cable from it or disconnecting it from wall power (which is what I do). Merely turning off the Comcast via the remote is not enough. However, if the HDMI portion of the software had a problem during the install it should have given you an error message.


Also, are you using a USB/Serial adapter to do the install or does your Windows computer have a real Serial port?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, just to be clear, when you say
> 
> 
> "If it bothers you, just change your target SPL level for the Anthem's internal test tones to something higher. Then you can turn down the Main volume when playing other sources to compensate."
> 
> 
> You mean that in the Speaker Level Calibration menu, I should increase the Noise Ref Level a few dB's? This will effect the master volume baseline once I leave the menu?
> 
> 
> I guess I could also increase the HD-DVD input level through the "Adjust Input Levels" menu.
> 
> 
> My HD-A1 is base-lined as you mentioned. That is still the original setup as I had it for my AVM20 with the only change being setting HDMI to PCM. For some reason it still showed as outputting Bitstream until I also changed the optical Digital to PCM.
> 
> 
> I guess it only displays the Optical out format for some reason.
> 
> 
> Would going the XLR route help? Would it be worth it in the long run and if so any preferred vendor (by preferred and I means good quality and as cheap as possible hahaa). Monoprice does not sell them otherwise I would have gotten them there as I have have good results with their cables to date.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



I doubt it's worth buying the XLR cables.


Yes, just boost either the output level in the A1 (I'm not certain the A1 will let you do this for PCM output) or the overall calibration level in the Anthem. In the later case, instead of targeting 75dB as the Anthem's calibration level you would be targetting, say 80dB. It really doesn't matter what level you pick so long as all the speakers are balanced. You will still adjust the playback level with the Main Volume control to get the sound level you want during playback. Which means you'll need to turn DOWN the volume when playing other sources.


Or just live with the difference from the A1 and turn up the Anthem volume when playing from the A1.


I don't know if the A1 is known for having this problem or not.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

Thanks for the suggestions.


I do seem to remember something along these lines way way back. A few people complaining that the overall volume level is much lower for PCM/HDMI.


I have no doubts that everything is working properly between the two devices in this regard. As you said, the higher bandwidth/quality signal is simply mixed a little lower.


The system certainly does not seem to be having any issues with me turning the volume up past 0 or -5 so I guess it isn't really an issue.


I will probably just up in dB for this particular input so it is more in line with the others... That said, I guess I need to do some cross referencing against the other sources. I had a busy weekend and as yet have still barely started tuning and calibrating everything up.


Going to be a fun couple weeks.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> actually Bob I was on V1.6. I went from V1.6 directly to V1.11 (downloaded from Anthem's website). Ironically, I did this because I would often have connection issue with the comcast unit and I thought updating to V1.11 would eliminate the problem. Instead, it made it worse.
> 
> 
> The problem developed after I installed V1.11. Nick then sent me sent me the V1.12s and that has not fixed the problem. I also swapped out Comcast units...they gave me a 3416 this time(had the 3412 before)... and swapped out HDMI cables to cover my bases and the problem still persists. Interestingly, with he installation of V1.12s, my OPPO does not sinc well with the D2 anymore as well (i did not have this problem before). I have reported this back to Nick and am now waiting to hear from him.
> 
> 
> Since I went directly from v1.6 to v1.11 do you still think I should troubleshoot for the bug? And even if i do have it shouldn't the installation of v1.12s have fixed it?
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> -b



I think it would be nice if some other 3416/3412 users could chime in here that are using 1.12s. I too noticed the Oppo taking a step backwards (in the handshake world) with this version. I fortunately don't have a cable box to worry about (at this time).


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> V1.12s would have fixed that problem, so it's not worth trying that test.
> 
> 
> I'm guessing your software install didn't happen correctly.
> 
> 
> Did you get any error messages when you installed V1.12s?
> 
> 
> It is necessary to have all 4 HDMI input lines and also the HDMI output line inactive while you are doing the software install. For the Comcast box, in particular, that means either physically disconnecting the HDMI cable from it or disconnecting it from wall power (which is what I do). Merely turning off the Comcast via the remote is not enough. However, if the HDMI portion of the software had a problem during the install it should have given you an error message.
> 
> 
> Also, are you using a USB/Serial adapter to do the install or does your Windows computer have a real Serial port?
> 
> --Bob



I have been using a USB/serial adapter. I have done one uprade before and it worked fine as far as I know. No, I did not get any error messages during any of my updates and everything looked to go perfectly.


An interesting development. After further troubleshooting, I set up another input (tape) for the comcast source with the same exact setting as the TV input I am having problems with and it solved the problem.... I am getting a picture. However, still no picture through the TV input. Very strange. Thoughts?


I also performed the update without anything connected via HDMI or component for that matter and all sources unplugged.


----------



## randman

I have a PS3 and haven't had any clicking issues. My room is about 70 degrees fahrenheit, and a temperature sensor close to the right rear of the D2 shows the temperature increase up to 5 degrees above ambient temperature when the D2 is in use. There is probably 6" or so of empty space above the D2, so it's adequately ventilated. There is a fan in the rear of the rack, which turns on automatically when the D2 reaches 80 degrees, and shuts off when it goes back down to around 75. Since the room is generally cool, it's very seldom when it reaches 80 or above.


----------



## nine ball




RROSEN said:


> Even though I think it was already confirmed, my D2 does have version 1.2x installed. The display and the cover of the manual both clearly state " 1.2x ".
> 
> 
> ............................................................ ...............
> 
> 
> By the way, I am working through posts starting earlier this month and I saw something about a calibration support group. I live in Mississauga and would be interested in any plans.
> 
> 
> ............................................................ ................
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Richard,
> 
> I am planning to host a calibration 'event' for those in our area with either the D2 or AVM50 as a prerequisite to maintain focus. I have a ruby and I hope I will have about 300 hours on it by the time we are ready in the August timeframe.
> 
> 
> The major element on the critical path(at least for me) has been the patient wait for the next full production release of the final 'tested' and proven stable version of the D2 software. I do not believe that serious investments in calibration efforts should be undertaken untill the ground stops moving.
> 
> 
> This is awesome technology that most of us on this thread have glimpsed as Anthem has attempted to cope with 'perhipheral HDMI hell' over the last year. Although I am, like everyone else on this thread, hopefull that the release is sooner rather than later......I do want the kids at Anthem to get it right and not release it before its time. If the base technology platform is stable AND then they release the audio calibration capability, we all will be benefiting from what I sincerely believe is the best technology on the planet at any price!!!!! BUT its a giant step backwards if this next release is not right and we fail to maximize the full potential of this stuff.
> 
> 
> So when we see the news of the next full production release expect an invitation to join the group for what promises to be a valuable lesson and shared experience for us all. As for the audio I have an 8.1 environment which I look forward to finally concentrating on with a similar event focused on the new audio calibration 'stuff' and with the P5 and P2 paired with the D2 it should be quite exciting as well........again we need stability in the D2 with this next release first. I am still on Ver 1.10 and I know with all the activity and feedback from this group alone that phenomenal progress has been made towards a stable and capable platform to finally begin calibrating and 'tweaking'.
> 
> 
> There's a couple of other fellows in our area so we have at least four of us 'lying in wait'........
> 
> 
> Peter


----------



## nethomas

What a thread!! For those of you who have been reading and keeping up with the thread, what is the general consensus? Is the D2 worth getting now or (in my case) should I upgrade my D1 or wait as the last poster said until the ground stops shaking? Obviously this is atweeking thread but it seems lake a lot of probles still in the units. Anyone?


Gene


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nethomas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What a thread!! For those of you who have been reading and keeping up with the thread, what is the general consensus? Is the D2 worth getting now or (in my case) should I upgrade my D1 or wait as the last poster said until the ground stops shaking? Obviously this is atweeking thread but it seems lake a lot of probles still in the units. Anyone?
> 
> 
> Gene



Please do not misinterpret my comments on the instabilities being attributed to the Anthem D2. In fact the truth is that Anthem has attained a much higher level of usability for many components that were 'defective', for want of a better term, from the outset.


HD dvd players(both HD and Bluray) all had significant problems with their HDMI implementations that Anthem overcame so that we could make the best of a sad situation. This is not to say that Anthem didn't have its own challenges, they did but the response to our feedback has been nothing short of outstanding and with a positive helpful attitude that is just not evident among other manufacturers of high end equipment in this field.


So to be clear, Anthem has been clearing up problems, by in large, with other manufacturers that we all depend on in the complicated chain of devices that moves the information from the shiny little disk to the big white sheet hanging on the wall!!!!!!!


And no you shouldn't wait..........the attributes of the D2 (D1 upgrade) even on the current version of software are so far improved for the home theater experience that you are depriving yourself of the next generation HT experience for no good reason.


AAaaaannnd, here's the best part......it just keeps getting better! My comments about the shifting ground was around the D2....not under it.


Peter


----------



## nethomas

Thanks Peter, that's a good point. I'll probably upgrade soon or maybe sell my D1 and start from scratch with a new D2.


Gene


----------



## RROSEN

That's awesome.


I will be around here so I will know when you think we/your ready.


Wouldn't mind also seeing the project combo. I figure that a projector will be my next big purchase when I swap out my HP Pavillion at some point.


In the mean time I am deep into troubleshooting the HTPC issues. There is some stuff on the HP Pavillion thread dealing with EDID and people using hex editors to modify their TV firmware (not for me I think), but it does lend hope that I may be able to get something working with a combination of the DVI Detector, the right nvidia/vista driver and resolutions.


Apparently part of the issue may be the my TVs initial suggested EDID is 1920 x 540i @60. Not sure if I can get that out of my video card. And still it really shouldn't matter if it is going through the D2 now should it?


Anyway, as things evolve I will post my trials, tribulations and hopefully success eventually.


I actually went out and got an nvidia 680i mainboard in hopes that its newer spec and being nvidia it will play nicer with the nvidia 8800GTS card. Initial boot seemed better (IE less zoomed/blown up), but now I am doing gymnastics trying to get the Raid 0 I had working on my Intel board to boot to Vista hahaa.


Good times. I least I like tinkering with this stuff. It's definitely part of the fun and you learn so much. EDID and stuff is virtually new to me and I am sure I will know more about it than I want to before this is over ;-)


I spent last night doing the latest firmware update on my HD-A1, rebuilding my newly built HTPC, and then watching T2 HD-DVD while I finished the build and then started troubleshooting the Raid issue.


I basically got the raid setup (At least it shows the combined disks in an good bootable array, but alas it doesn't seem to be able to find the Vista Operating system. Hopefully I am not looking and a reinstall (but luckily there isn't to much on it yet if I am). I basically called it a night when I ran the Vista repair and it asked me for the HD drivers hahaa. Got some simplistic ideas from EVGA support that I will try tonight.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's awesome.
> 
> 
> I will be around here so I will know when you think we/your ready.
> 
> 
> Wouldn't mind also seeing the project combo. I figure that a projector will be my next big purchase when I swap out my HP Pavillion at some point.
> 
> 
> In the mean time I am deep into troubleshooting the HTPC issues. There is some stuff on the HP Pavillion thread dealing with EDID and people using hex editors to modify their TV firmware (not for me I think), but it does lend hope that I may be able to get something working with a combination of the DVI Detector, the right nvidia/vista driver and resolutions.
> 
> 
> Apparently part of the issue may be the my TVs initial suggested EDID is 1920 x 540i @60. Not sure if I can get that out of my video card. And still it really shouldn't matter if it is going through the D2 now should it?
> 
> 
> Anyway, as things evolve I will post my trials, tribulations and hopefully success eventually.
> 
> 
> I actually went out and got an nvidia 680i mainboard in hopes that its newer spec and being nvidia it will play nicer with the nvidia 8800GTS card. Initial boot seemed better (IE less zoomed/blown up), but now I am doing gymnastics trying to get the Raid 0 I had working on my Intel board to boot to Vista hahaa.
> 
> 
> Good times. I least I like tinkering with this stuff. It's definitely part of the fun and you learn so much. EDID and stuff is virtually new to me and I am sure I will know more about it than I want to before this is over ;-)
> 
> 
> I spent last night doing the latest firmware update on my HD-A1, rebuilding my newly built HTPC, and then watching T2 HD-DVD while I finished the build and then started troubleshooting the Raid issue.
> 
> 
> I basically got the raid setup (At least it shows the combined disks in an good bootable array, but alas it doesn't seem to be able to find the Vista Operating system. Hopefully I am not looking and a reinstall (but luckily there isn't to much on it yet if I am). I basically called it a night when I ran the Vista repair and it asked me for the HD drivers hahaa. Got some simplistic ideas from EVGA support that I will try tonight.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard




When we're ready you will be part of the group for sure.


I will be watching your progress with the HTPC. I have a HP z558 with a couple of terabytes attached which worked well with the ruby through the D2 on Ver 1.06 but I can not seem to get it to work on 1.10. I was never able to get it to work on DVI to HDMI into the D2 so I switched to component and BAADA BING...BAAADA BOOM as the saying goes....it worked well as noted on Ver 1.06. After the switch to Ver 1.10 naaada, zip....zero sound or video. I am planning to try flipping back to the hybrid DVI to HDMI cables to the D2 after the 1.2 final release. They just might have fixed whatever and I can get the video and sound back.


I'm also looking forward to implementing my DVD storage farm of approx 25 TB of raid 5 industrial config feeding a vista platform. I would still like to use the Escient box to front end the thing but they and the industry have to wake up and do something workable with Managed Copy for me to be happy, I think.


Peter


----------



## Toyo321




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX Mode* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So I was on the final leg of the Sony 2.0 firmware upgrade - when in the end, the Anthem ended up not passing any signal from the Blu Ray player.
> 
> 
> I verified the update went correctly as I switched the HDMI between the Anthem HDMI out with the Blu Ray going straight to the projector. Bang - there's the picture.
> 
> 
> I had done multiple upgrades on the Sony to ver 1.5, 1.55 and 1.6 - all had no issues whatsoever with the Anthem. But 2.0 caused it to crash and burn.
> 
> 
> The D2 is at the 'stock' 1.11 version - anyone know if the upcoming firmware alleviates this? Or better yet has anyone experienced the same issue with a Sony BDP-S1?



Anthem can't fix this issue with either Sony's S1 or The Pioneer HD1 player. Anthem has sent a D2 to Pioneer to resolve this issue. But Sony has acknowledged no immediate resolution with their player. Her is a copy of an Email Nick sent to me from Anthem Tech Sup.


From: SFI Tech

Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 2:15 PM

To: dknapp

Subject: Re: D2 HDMI hand shake problem with my Sony Blu-Ray BDP-S1 player and 2.0 firmware


Hi Dave,


Thank you for your e-mail.


We bought a Pioneer player, we looked at the problem, we realized that this cannot be fixed from our end, Pioneer called us, we sent them a D2, they are working on a fix. Pioneer was a pleasure to work with but that is all I know. Sony also knows of the problem but I do not know what they are doing about it. The best thing would be for Sony's customers to contact Sony. So far the only response I have seen from them is that "AV receivers are not supported" (which to me looks like they're breaking standards they helped create and which gives firm grounds for returning the product).


If you want I can send our latest software but it does not contain a fix for the above.


Best Regards,

Nick P., Technical Support


205 Annagem Blvd.

Mississauga, ON

L5T 2V1 Canada

Tel: 905-362-0958 ext. 240

Fax: 905-564-4642



I did contact Charlie at Sony about this issue he is level 2 support specialist and the only option is to call Sony and report to them that you are having this issue. Get a Event ID# from them and send a email to them. Email me for the level 2 Support email address. Quote this forum about the problems with your BDP-S1 and just maybe they will take this issue a little more seriously. You can't have HDMI issues like this overlooked anymore and as a Sony customer these oversights are really getting ridiculous and Sony needs to fix the compatibility of this player and the other Sony Blu-Ray players out there with Anthem D2 and AVM50 for good, with a new firmware release.


Dave


----------



## RROSEN

Thanks.


If the mainboard change and a few simple tweaks don't fix the issue then I plan on going through a rather rigorous assault on the resolution and frequency options both direct and through the D2 and log all the results (until I get a satisfying result that is ;-))


I will post that here as a bit of payback for all the help/input I have gotten.. I may also include a with and without the DVI Detective as well. Could be a rather large test set.


Is there anything in particular that would be of value for me to record in the results?


The obvious things would be the details of what the Video card is outputting, what the D2 and/or TV think they are receiving and some properties of the resulting image and its stability. I guess it is mainly around the image and stability that I am wondering if you want anything specifically looked for.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## buddy4711




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob,
> 
> 
> I can confirm that with this setting 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 it looked outstanding yesternight when watching TROY from HD DVD. No stuttering at all and brilliant clear picture. I think it is better than in a movie theater! just outstanding....
> 
> BTW, the toshi cannot do the 24 hz until they will make another firmware upgrade in autumn this year.
> 
> 
> BTW (2), somewhere I read that a HD DVD's native resolution is always 1080i. is that correct? because if so, then it would make more sense IMO to let the statement do the de-interlacing und upscaling towards 1080p/24. Or did I misunderstand something in this respect?
> 
> 
> regards, juerg



I must restate this: there is a stuttering when 1080i is transformed into 1080p24 regarding my hardware setup (don't know about other stuff). Therefore I switched back towards 1080i50--->1080p50. There will be a sw upgrade on the toshi soon to allow 1080p24 on which i am just waiting in the meantime


----------



## buddy4711

since I have 2 displays with differing resolutions in the same (living) room I can confirm that under 1.12s there are 2 display settings which can be called up by the remote controls button "mode".


I have therefore set video output 1 with 1080p50 for the projector and video setting 2 with 720p50 for the TV.


juerg


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> If the mainboard change and a few simple tweaks don't fix the issue then I plan on going through a rather rigorous assault on the resolution and frequency options both direct and through the D2 and log all the results (until I get a satisfying result that is ;-))
> 
> 
> I will post that here as a bit of payback for all the help/input I have gotten.. I may also include a with and without the DVI Detective as well. Could be a rather large test set.
> 
> 
> Is there anything in particular that would be of value for me to record in the results?
> 
> 
> The obvious things would be the details of what the Video card is outputting, what the D2 and/or TV think they are receiving and some properties of the resulting image and its stability. I guess it is mainly around the image and stability that I am wondering if you want anything specifically looked for.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard




If you do end up with attempting a rigorous process and taking the time to document it, especially if the results give you a conclusion making the effort worthwhile, then it would be an excellent addition to the Encyclopedia Galactica at the top of this thread. I still want to see proof that the HTPC can produce an image equal to the output of a dedicated DVD player to a critical eye. I will not be satisfied with a compromise in quality for ease of use.


Bob P or Hank ought to be able to answer any of the teething challenges you may face as they appear to be fairly knowledgeable and Bob at least won't embarrass you for reaching out for basic answers........Hank on the other hand has an intimate knowledge of some of the graphic processing elements from an engineering perspective that some of us have come to respect.


One question that comes to mind for me is how relevant the PC to D2 communications is to the type of screen/display/projector you are using.


Peter


----------



## gostan

I just sold my 1st generation Toshiba HD-XA1.


Question for D2 owners. Which gen 2 Toshiba player should I upgrade to?


I am leaning toward the A-20 as I do not see the need to spend the $$ for the X-A2-Unless somebody advises me that SD on the X-A2 will be better than through my Oppo 970 at 480i to the D2.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just sold my 1st generation Toshiba HD-XA1.
> 
> 
> Question for D2 owners. Which gen 2 Toshiba player should I upgrade to?
> 
> 
> I am leaning toward the A-20 as I do not see the need to spend the $$ for the X-A2-Unless somebody advises me that SD on the X-A2 will be better than through my Oppo 970 at 480i to the D2.



I can't answer the SD quality question - because the

XA2 does have a great Video Processor for converting

SD to High-Res!


Is it better than the D2 - I do not know.


The one reason -- MAYBE -- is the XA2 is suppose to

have a FW upgrade to 1080p. I do not think that is

true of the A-20. I could be wrong.


But buying the XA2 is a RISK - because Toshiba said

they would have it in Feb and we are in JULY with

nothing - so there are no guarantees.


----------



## brado32

So, I am having fun with my avm50 .. HD sources from DTV look fantastic, non-HD not so much..


Anyway, just starting to play with my xbox and I cant seem to get it to output 1080p thru the anthem to my sony perl.. It doesnt sync up, and reverts back to 1080i ..


is this an xbox, anthem, or perl issue??


thanks


-Brad


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can't answer the SD quality question - because the
> 
> XA2 does have a great Video Processor for converting
> 
> SD to High-Res!
> 
> 
> Is it better than the D2 - I do not know.
> 
> 
> The one reason -- MAYBE -- is the XA2 is suppose to
> 
> have a FW upgrade to 1080p. I do not think that is
> 
> true of the A-20. I could be wrong.
> 
> 
> But buying the XA2 is a RISK - because Toshiba said
> 
> they would have it in Feb and we are in JULY with
> 
> nothing - so there are no guarantees.



My understanding is that the FW upgrade will also be applicable to the A-20, but not the A-2.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My understanding is that the FW upgrade will also be applicable to the A-20, but not the A-2.



I said - I COULD BE WRONG










Good to know!


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can't answer the SD quality question - because the
> 
> XA2 does have a great Video Processor for converting
> 
> SD to High-Res!
> 
> 
> Is it better than the D2 - I do not know.
> 
> 
> The one reason -- MAYBE -- is the XA2 is suppose to
> 
> have a FW upgrade to 1080p. I do not think that is
> 
> true of the A-20. I could be wrong.
> 
> 
> But buying the XA2 is a RISK - because Toshiba said
> 
> they would have it in Feb and we are in JULY with
> 
> nothing - so there are no guarantees.




Hank,

I may be putting my foot in it, but the XA2 already does 1080p /60 TO THE D2 and then I continue the output to the ruby at 1080P /60. I forget, but I believe it was doing it from at least version 1.5.


unless i am wrong or the D2 is lying to me!!!!!!!


Peter


----------



## Kris Deering

Both the XA2 and the HD-A20 will have a 24p output this September.


----------



## yourlilbro

Kris I love your Reviews....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hank,
> 
> I may be putting my foot in it, but the XA2 already does 1080p /60 TO THE D2 and then I continue the output to the ruby at 1080P /60. I forget, but I believe it was doing it from at least version 1.5.
> 
> 
> unless i am wrong or the D2 is lying to me!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> Peter



THAT DOES NOT COUNT.


As Kris Deering said - 1080p/24 by September.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Both the XA2 and the HD-A20 will have a 24p output this September.



Dumb question............


If I grab 24p from the XA2 and then am forced to convert in the D2 to 60p because the ruby can't do 24p natively, is there any advantage over what I am doing now or is it just introducing one unecessary conversion with no benefit?


Peter


----------



## Kris Deering

I thought the Ruby supported 24p?? The Pearl does. I could swear the Ruby does.


There may be a benefit to doing the frame conversion, if the Anthem did a good job with it. The 24p output should bypass the Reon chip in the XA2, and the less things you have in the chain the better. The 1080p60 output would still be de-interlaced from 1080i so you have processing going on.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought the Ruby supported 24p?? The Pearl does. I could swear the Ruby does.
> 
> 
> There may be a benefit to doing the frame conversion, if the Anthem did a good job with it. The 24p output should bypass the Reon chip in the XA2, and the less things you have in the chain the better. The 1080p60 output would still be de-interlaced from 1080i so you have processing going on.



The Ruby only supports 48p via the DVI input.










DrHankz was trying to corner a Sony Engineer earlier this year to find out if there was some undocumented method to get 24p with the Ruby (especially through HDMI). I think the answer was fuggedaboutit.


Oh well, I guess we Ruby owners just have to suffer...


----------



## RROSEN

Well the bad news is it looks like I am doing a new Vista install tonight... to be honest I am tempted to just do an XP install in case Vista is the issue with the Video card.


I haven't researched setting it up so I can have both XP and Vista bootable... Is that even possible?


Since I will pretty much just be loading the operating system at this point and a few drivers, I guess I will try Vista again. If I run through my test plan and can't get anything to work then a wipe and install of XP to try that out isn't such a huge issue.


I hope it doesn't get to that as I have the new office Vista as well hahaa.


I might try a new HD drive for the install and then try and see what I can recover from the old array. Luckily it is a pretty recent build so I still have my migration data and stuff so shouldn't lose much if it doesn't fly.


Some basic Raid information (or even a warning) would have been helpful. I pretty much set it up as correctly as could be expected with ZERO guidance and it looks like I borked my previous Vista install.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Ian_Currie

Question on the D2 video processor:


If you used both Noise Reduction and Detail Enhancement, would they conceptually cancel each other out?


Also, does anyone know what the 2nd option under Detail Enhancement does (something to do with motion, but it's not the separate motion feature covered in the manual)?


----------



## jkmw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well the bad news is it looks like I am doing a new Vista install tonight... to be honest I am tempted to just do an XP install in case Vista is the issue with the Video card.
> 
> 
> I haven't researched setting it up so I can have both XP and Vista bootable... Is that even possible?
> 
> 
> Richard




I think so, I read a fairly recent article on running two OS to include Vista, in PC Magazine. I am not at home and do not have the option of looking up the issue but if you can wait until around 6 pm est. I will try to find the reference.


----------



## RROSEN

That would be awesome thanks. I won't even be home before then so no worries.


Also, I got my OPPO 970 yesterday and listened to a couple DVD-Audio's and tried out a couple movies. Looked and sounded great.


Not sure how discerning a listener I am, but to sum it up about the best I could say about the DVD-A stuff was it just sounded like you think it should. Absolutely clear music and vocals laid onto a dead silent background. The AVM20 sounded great, but this is tighter and more focused it seems.


Setup was a little trick as the manuals (why 2 with one being "Advanced") were a little sketchy (or at least you had to really hunt) for how to get the PMC above 48kHz. I knew the 720p/1080i video was required from here, but I missed the HDMI Audio setting and how it links to the output bandwidth.


For me turning the HDMI audio OFF then setting the bandwidth to 192kHz and then having it reset back to 48kHz when I turned HDMI Audio back to LPMC was confusing. It was not intuitive or mentioned clearly in the docs that despite it resetting to 48kHz, you would still not be able to get the 92kHz output. I finally realized while checking the D2 almost by accident hahaa. All is good now.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That would be awesome thanks. I won't even be home before then so no worries.
> 
> 
> Also, I got my OPPO 970 yesterday and listened to a couple DVD-Audio's and tried out a couple movies. Looked and sounded great.
> 
> 
> Not sure how discerning a listener I am, but to sum it up about the best I could say about the DVD-A stuff was it just sounded like you think it should. Absolutely clear music and vocals laid onto a dead silent background. The AVM20 sounded great, but this is tighter and more focused it seems.
> 
> 
> Setup was a little trick as the manuals (why 2 with one being "Advanced") were a little sketchy (or at least you had to really hunt) for how to get the PMC above 48kHz. I knew the 720p/1080i video was required from here, but I missed the HDMI Audio setting and how it links to the output bandwidth.
> 
> 
> For me turning the HDMI audio OFF then setting the bandwidth to 192kHz and then having it reset back to 48kHz when I turned HDMI Audio back to LPMC was confusing. It was not intuitive or mentioned clearly in the docs that despite it resetting to 48kHz, you would still not be able to get the 92kHz output. I finally realized while checking the D2 almost by accident hahaa. All is good now.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard




Richard,

You might review some of your settings for the Oppo to ensure that there aren't any more subtle gotcha's both on the video as well as the audio side. The huge benefit with the Oppo is that for video at least it can serve up relatively uncontaminated/unprocessed 480i over HDMI to the D2 for standard definition DVD content. The audio bass management requires some attention to ensure that you leave the heavy lifting to the D2. Although we have discussed many of these issues in this thread we still haven't succeeded in distilling it under one configuration guide for D2 connected source devices. If you were to review your settings with some of the folks here it might be the start of a similar process for the XA2 and or similar Pioneer Bluray device. Your audio experience you have described here is typical for a number of newbees so it would be nice to take advantage of your recent trials to offer up a recommended config as a starting block for anyone with a oppo D2 combination.


Food for thought..........


Peter


----------



## Joe C5

Hi - here are my suggestions for the Oppo. It's not the best at SACD but it's "ok".

First, read this: http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-...&deInt=0&mpeg=0 

Notice the part about the audio.

If you don't have any weird DVD based audio you can probably get away with a single setup (HDMI over to the Anthem). See the following two articles on what I mean by weird DVD stuff:
http://www.smr-home-theatre.org/myths/dvdaudio.html 
http://store.acousticsounds.com/sup...?support=format 


Finally, if you DO have the weird stuff, I have found that this seems to work (at least the D2 shows 96K on DAD disks). Note that for movies you are using either coax or optical (whichever you like) since the Oppo always outputs raw data when set up like this.


SO, for the Oppo:

Speaker Setup Page:

Down-mix: 5.1 CH

Front Speaker: Large

Center Speaker: Large

Rear Speaker: Large

Subwoofer: On

Audio Setup Page:

Digital Output: Raw

HDMI Audio: LPCM


And for the Anthem D2:

CD: Video=HDMI1, Audio=HDMI1

DVD: Video=HDMI1, Audio=Optical1


Of course you need to change the inputs to the ones you use. The only change if you use one setup for both (HDMI only) is to set the HDMI Audio to Auto on the Oppo. Again, this only really seems to matter if you have DAD or some such really weird audio disks. Of course you still have to set the video resolution by hand to 480i for movies and 1080i (or whatever) for audio .


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi - here are my suggestions for the Oppo. It's not the best at SACD but it's "ok".
> 
> First, read this: http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-...&deInt=0&mpeg=0
> 
> Notice the part about the audio.
> 
> If you don't have any weird DVD based audio you can probably get away with a single setup (HDMI over to the Anthem). See the following two articles on what I mean by weird DVD stuff:
> http://www.smr-home-theatre.org/myths/dvdaudio.html
> http://store.acousticsounds.com/sup...?support=format
> 
> 
> Finally, if you DO have the weird stuff, I have found that this seems to work (at least the D2 shows 96K on DAD disks). Note that for movies you are using either coax or optical (whichever you like) since the Oppo always outputs raw data when set up like this.
> 
> 
> SO, for the Oppo:
> 
> Speaker Setup Page:
> 
> Down-mix: 5.1 CH
> 
> Front Speaker: Large
> 
> Center Speaker: Large
> 
> Rear Speaker: Large
> 
> Subwoofer: On
> 
> Audio Setup Page:
> 
> Digital Output: Raw
> 
> HDMI Audio: LPCM
> 
> 
> And for the Anthem D2:
> 
> CD: Video=HDMI1, Audio=HDMI1
> 
> DVD: Video=HDMI1, Audio=Optical1
> 
> 
> Of course you need to change the inputs to the ones you use. The only change if you use one setup for both (HDMI only) is to set the HDMI Audio to Auto on the Oppo. Again, this only really seems to matter if you have DAD or some such really weird audio disks. Of course you still have to set the video resolution by hand to 480i for movies and 1080i (or whatever) for audio .




Thank you Joe, this is a great start. Thank you from all of us for taking the time to respond........I would suggest that we place this in a D2 and Oppo file at the top of the thread after we survey the inner cabinet to see if there are any other observations or additions. Any and all feedback would be welcome.


Again Joe, thank you.


Peter


----------



## RROSEN

So for DVD-Video I do not want the audio going through the HDMI feed?


This seems counter-intuitive to me.


I had all the other settings as you have above except I have Digital Output to PCM and I have the audio input in the D2 set to HDMI. (Since I have everything going through the HDMI does the Digital Output setting even matter?)


I am watching LOTR ED outputting DTS EX and the D2 tells me it is receiving 768kbs or close. Is this not what it should be receiving? Would it be any better through Optical or coax?


Cheers,


Richard


PS. The PC saga continues. Looks like I nuked my Vista install for sure and now I cannot even seem to get the drives to accept a new install in ANY configuration hahaa. ;-)


----------



## wookie

Problem with xbox 360. When I set my x box to 1080i output to the D2 The picture looks like 480 interlace with quite visible scan lines. The D2 is set to output to 720p and I am using component conections throughout (no HDMI) On the video status screen it states it is getting component 4;4;4 signal type 1920x1080i/59.94HZ inpout and1280x720/60HZ frame rate 60000HZ output. I searched this massive thread and saw that some other people were having the 1080i bug with the 360 and it was suggested to try version 1.11e or g software. I am currently using the g version. Now the odd thing is that it had been working fine. Also I have a similar problem with a JVC DVHS 30000 with a 1080i output. The x box and the JVC were going through an audio authority 1154a switcher going into the aux input on the D2. I replaced the switcher and still the same problem. For a while I could get it to work by going to a 1080i source from the sa 8300 cable box on the tv input and then back to the aux input. I bipassed the audio authority switcher completely and now I have the same problem. This evening when I first turned it on it worked fine. I played a regular dvd through the xbox 360 which makes it output a 480p signal and the d2 up converted it to 720p fine.When I took the dvd out and the xbox reverted back to a 1080i signal the problem started again. I played an HD DVD through the x box HD DVD player accessory and had the same problem. I wonder if it is a heat problem though the d2 doesn't feel too warm (it is open to the air on all sides and top)and the xbox feels warm but not hot. I had a repair order processed for the xbox 360 but haven't sent it in yet (they have a 4-5 week turn around now) Also the fact that a similar problem with the DVHS recorder makes me think it may be an incompatibility with the D2. The JVC works fine now after I turned it off and back on. I have no problem with the SA 8300 cable box at 1080i. No problem with 480p 720p or 480i inputs with other components. I am going to contact anthem regarding this. Any other suggestions? I hate sending the xbox in when they probably won't have a similar setup to test it on. I could use some of the mascots! Thanks


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So for DVD-Video I do not want the audio going through the HDMI feed?
> 
> 
> This seems counter-intuitive to me.
> 
> 
> I had all the other settings as you have above except I have Digital Output to PCM and I have the audio input in the D2 set to HDMI. (Since I have everything going through the HDMI does the Digital Output setting even matter?)
> 
> 
> I am watching LOTR ED outputting DTS EX and the D2 tells me it is receiving 768kbs or close. Is this not what it should be receiving? Would it be any better through Optical or coax?
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



You want to set the Oppo HDMI Audio to Auto, and then use the HDMI for DVD-Video. I also use it for CD, SACD and DVD-A. Sounds excellent.


The Auto setting lets the Oppo output either a bitstream (e.g. Dolby Digital or DTS) encoded with a DVD-Video title, *OR* decoded PCM (stereo or multichannel) and send it out over the same HDMI cable. The D2 then can either decode the DD/DTS or upsample and pass through the PCM.


If you never play multichannel DVD-A, then you can leave the Oppo at 480i on the HDMI. Only when playing a multichannel DVD-A disc will you need to switch the output to 720p or 1080i.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You want to set the Oppo HDMI Audio to Auto, and then use the HDMI for DVD-Video. I also use it for CD, SACD and DVD-A. Sounds excellent.
> 
> 
> The Auto setting lets the Oppo output either a bitstream (e.g. Dolby Digital or DTS) encoded with a DVD-Video title, *OR* decoded PCM (stereo or multichannel) and send it out over the same HDMI cable. The D2 then can either decode the DD/DTS or upsample and pass through the PCM.
> 
> 
> If you never play multichannel DVD-A, then you can leave the Oppo at 480i on the HDMI. Only when playing a multichannel DVD-A disc will you need to switch the output to 720p or 1080i.



Thanks Gordon, this is very consistent with earlier conclusions. If I recall correctly Oppo stepped up with a recent release that improved the 'auto' sensing and switching.


Richard, what version of the Oppo software are you running? If you try this and your results are positive could you edit and amend the Oppo config note and then we can ask Levesque to post the conclusion into the top of the thread.

Unless there are any other comments? caveats? amendments?


Gordon, if I may ..... what are your respective versions on the D2 and Oppo?

I agree with your observations by the way.....the Oppo with the D2 produces a terrific result!


Peter


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Only when playing a multichannel DVD-A disc will you need to switch the output to 720p or 1080i.



What about sacd? Do you not have to set the output to 720p/1080i with that too?


One of you guys posted that the Oppo way is not the "best" for sacd. I'd be interested in hearing what it was compared to and further details. If it's too far off topic then don't worry about it!


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What about sacd? Do you not have to set the output to 720p/1080i with that too?
> 
> 
> One of you guys posted that the Oppo way is not the "best" for sacd. I'd be interested in hearing what it was compared to and further details. If it's too far off topic then don't worry about it!



In order to send SACD over HDMI the Oppo converts to PCM first. This conversion may be what the OP was speaking about. AFAIK for SACD you can leave the Oppo output on 480i (I have one ready to go but it is not in my main system at the moment so cannot comment further on that).


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Gordon, this is very consistent with earlier conclusions. If I recall correctly Oppo stepped up with a recent release that improved the 'auto' sensing and switching.
> 
> 
> Gordon, if I may ..... what are your respective versions on the D2 and Oppo?
> 
> I agree with your observations by the way.....the Oppo with the D2 produces a terrific result!
> 
> 
> Peter



If I recall, Oppo put the 'Auto' setting in after the fact, since there were customers who wanted to have both Bitstream and PCM (anyone with an HDMI 1.1 AV receiver).


D2 is at 1.11e.

Oppo is at Mver 05.00.01.67 Batch 4A-0111.


The Oppo is not perfect - it's upsampling over component is good, not great. It's performance with SACD is good, not stellar (although I have a tiny SACD collection so I'm not motivated to change). But the fact it plays ALL types of discs, and provides a way to spit out an unaltered digital signal, for so little money is fantastic.


My only wish list - detection of SACD/DVD-A and autoswitching for 480i to 1080i. Oh, and if they could remove all of the analog circuitry and digital outs except for the HDMI, then maybe they could offer it for half it's current ridiculously low price!


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In order to send SACD over HDMI the Oppo converts to PCM first. This conversion may be what the OP was speaking about. AFAIK for SACD you can leave the Oppo output on 480i (I have one ready to go but it is not in my main system at the moment so cannot comment further on that).



That is true. Only DVD-A multichannel at 96K sample rate will push it over the bandwidth limit.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One of you guys posted that the Oppo way is not the "best" for sacd. I'd be interested in hearing what it was compared to and further details. If it's too far off topic then don't worry about it!



I think one of the Sony players is considered the best - don't know the model number. I think a D2/AVM50 owner here has one and posted about it.


The Oppo converts the SACD DSD data to PCM at 88.2 K sample rate. That conversion *could* be a point of degradation compared to DSD all the way to the Anthem for decoding. There's quite a few posts on the Oppo 970 thread that indicate the difference is pretty small. My own feeling is that if my SACD library was over a few dozen, I might look into the standalone SACD player - but the results I'm getting now with the Oppo are fine for me.


If I'm going to add another player, it would be a BR or HD DVD - now that it seems a lot of the issues are disappearing with new generations of players.


----------



## cosmos5861

Can someone recommend a good Universal remote?


I have the following :


Panasonic TH 50PF9UK

DirecTV H20 recevier

Oppo 970 DVD Player

Apple Mini Mac

Home Theatre PC

XBox 360


Future PlayStation 3


Thank you.


----------



## soapman72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can someone recommend a good Universal remote?
> 
> 
> I have the following :
> 
> 
> Panasonic TH 50PF9UK
> 
> DirecTV H20 recevier
> 
> Oppo 970 DVD Player
> 
> Apple Mini Mac
> 
> Home Theatre PC
> 
> XBox 360
> 
> 
> Future PlayStation 3
> 
> 
> Thank you.





I have the Harmony 1000 and am quite happy with it. Programming the remote for multiple DVD players proved to be a hassle, due to the fact that the Anthem uses what Harmony tech's call "multi method" toggling for the DVD inputs 1-4. There is no way I know of for the consumer to program for more than 1 DVD player (unless the others are connected to inputs that are not DVD inputs).


The level 2 techs at Harmony were fast and accurate though, when I needed help setting up for the sony, pioneer, and toshiba disc players in my system.


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can someone recommend a good Universal remote?
> 
> 
> I have the following :
> 
> 
> Panasonic TH 50PF9UK
> 
> DirecTV H20 recevier
> 
> Oppo 970 DVD Player
> 
> Apple Mini Mac
> 
> Home Theatre PC
> 
> XBox 360
> 
> 
> Future PlayStation 3
> 
> 
> Thank you.



No remote provides the flexibility of the Pronto series from Philips. I own a Pronto Pro and love.


----------



## cosmos5861

Is there a way to auto power on AVM 50 if a unit is turn on? And the reverse, if a unit gets turn off then AVM 50 will power off?


For example if I turn on my Direct TV the AVM will turn on?


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No remote provides the flexibility of the Pronto series from Philips. I own a Pronto Pro and love.



Speaking of the Pronto, I own the TSU7000. I imported the code files for the D2 from the Anthem web site and they don't work reliably, if at all. I can get the D2 power up sometimes using the Pronto, but I have to press the button on the remote repeatedly. And I can't get the set-up menu function to work at all. As owners of the D2 know, entering the set-up menu requires holding the sub level button for several seconds. It appears that Anthem has attempted to emulate the button being held in the Pronto code file by repeating the code 8 times, unfortunately it just doesn't work. I get intermittent response from the rest of the codes.


Anyone else had success using a Pronto with the D2?


----------



## slots1

I had an early pronto. It took so much time to program the macros.

Now I have the Harmony 890, one step down from the 1000. If you do not need rf get the 880. Just go on line and drop in all your devices. Magic

It is so super wonderful and easy to use. In fact your setup is kept on the harmony site. You cannot loose it. Easy to set up new devices. I have already setup my D2 and waiting for it to be installed.

Forget the pronto.

Also, the people at Logitech are very helpful (Harmony)

Gerry


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone else had success using a Pronto with the D2?



Others have had success by getting the Pronto to LEARN

the D2 codes from the D2 Remote.


----------



## EL

hifisponge,

I have the TSU3000 (BW version) and it's working fine.

I recall that I downloaded the codes file from anthem but like you I had problem until I noticed the code given on the web page:

Vol+


0000 006D 0000 0022 012B 0099 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03D5


Vol-


0000 006D 0000 0022 012B 0099 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03D5



I noticed that the codes have different header and footer. So I modified all codes and it's working fine.


I'm using the isolation technique where you have all code in a hidden page on ugly buttons and your visible page are linking to the hidden one. So I can send you the hidden page for the anthem.


But before, try this power on and power off to see if it solves your problem:


OFF:

0000 006D 0000 0022 012B 0099 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03D5


ON:

0000 006D 0000 0022 012B 0099 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03D5


the repeat of the sub code works fine, try that one too.

SUB/LFE/Setup:

0000 006D 0000 0022 012B 0099 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03D5


Emmanuel


----------



## hifisponge

Thanks Emmanuel. My D2 is in the shop right now, but I will try your versions of the codes when I get it back.


How did you modify the Vol +/- codes? I can't tell what you did.


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Others have had success by getting the Pronto to LEARN
> 
> the D2 codes from the D2 Remote.



Thanks Dr. I will try that. I assumed that using the discrete codes from the Anthem website would be the best bet.


----------



## EL

I did not mod vol+ or vol-, it's given as example by anthem but they don't match the one in the file.


I don't recal exactly but the last one was not 03D5 and the first 2 were also different.

just send me a PM with your email if the codes do the trick and I'll send them, unless you really want to modify one by one like I did


----------



## Ian_Currie

Other than the Vol codes, I used the learn function and everything's working well.


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Speaking of the Pronto, I own the TSU7000. I imported the code files for the D2 from the Anthem web site and they don't work reliably, if at all. I can get the D2 power up sometimes using the Pronto, but I have to press the button on the remote repeatedly. And I can't get the set-up menu function to work at all. As owners of the D2 know, entering the set-up menu requires holding the sub level button for several seconds. It appears that Anthem has attempted to emulate the button being held in the Pronto code file by repeating the code 8 times, unfortunately it just doesn't work. I get intermittent response from the rest of the codes.
> 
> 
> Anyone else had success using a Pronto with the D2?



I have TSU7000 and had similar issues with my direction buttons. I solved the problem by learning the codes from the original D2 remote and adjusting the duration to a reliable point. It took some time but it now works great. I didn't have issues with any other buttons but I would recommend you give the duration adjustments a shot.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Dr. I will try that. I assumed that using the discrete codes from the Anthem website would be the best bet.



In theory it SHOULD










But I remember reading about others here with the

same problem as you trying to use published codes.


Their solution was to get the Pronto to learn the codes

and THEN all is well in the world after that


----------



## ManWithAPlan

I use a total of 3 MX-950's from Universal, one for each of the 3 Zones in the house, and they work great. I use the RF Extender with them, for making changes from miles away in the house...i think it's the RF-300 or something...


By the way, there ARE indeed discrete codes for DVD 1-4 and all other "virtual" and real inputs on the D2. There was an addendum to the original D2 manual that included those, I'm sure it's since been included in the later versions of the normal manual.


[Just wanted to address that for the gentleman who was stating that Harmony told him that the D2 doesn't do that...they are WRONG, way wrong].


Cheers,

Brian


----------



## Ian_Currie

I just used the addendum to discretly access DVD 1-4; it works great.


And yes, duration of the codes is key for some of the commands (e.g. setup, scaler etc).


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have TSU7000 and had similar issues with my direction buttons. I solved the problem by learning the codes from the original D2 remote and adjusting the duration to a reliable point. It took some time but it now works great. I didn't have issues with any other buttons but I would recommend you give the duration adjustments a shot.



Thanks for the tip on fiddling with the duration. I had not even noticed that function before. But then until now I had no need to.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had an early pronto. It took so much time to program the macros.
> 
> Now I have the Harmony 890, one step down from the 1000. If you do not need rf get the 880. Just go on line and drop in all your devices. Magic
> 
> It is so super wonderful and easy to use. In fact your setup is kept on the harmony site. You cannot loose it. Easy to set up new devices. I have already setup my D2 and waiting for it to be installed.
> 
> Forget the pronto.
> 
> Also, the people at Logitech are very helpful (Harmony)
> 
> Gerry



Similar story here - had the Pronto ProTSU6000 which cost me a small fortune and could never get it to the stage I needed. Programming it was unbearably difficult and time consuming.

Invested in the Harmony 1000 and I am so happy I did.

The online programming is great and when I had a problem with software their customer service was second to none. When the CSR could not fix my problem he made an appointment, at my convenience, to call back the next day with the solution and he did!!!

I have nothing to say but good about Harmony/Logitech!

/\\/\\


----------



## Ian_Currie

Good for you. When I researched remotes, I read a lot of bad things about Logitech support , and learned you were very limited in what you could do as far as programming the remote.


I have a Pronto Pro TSU-9600 and it's amazing, but in the end, all that matters is that the remote does what you want it to....


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can someone recommend a good Universal remote?
> 
> 
> I have the following :
> 
> 
> Panasonic TH 50PF9UK
> 
> DirecTV H20 recevier
> 
> Oppo 970 DVD Player
> 
> Apple Mini Mac
> 
> Home Theatre PC
> 
> XBox 360
> 
> 
> Future PlayStation 3
> 
> 
> Thank you.



I love the Pronto series. However, the Pronto (and like other remotes with the same level of flexibility/power) will take a bit of time to program. But for me and many others, it's well worth the time spent. The Pronto gives you complete flexibility in what you want to do. Anyway, the subject of remotes is a bit off topic for this thread, so I suggest you go to http://www.remotecentral.com to read about various remotes.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I use a total of 3 MX-950's from Universal, one for each of the 3 Zones in the house, and they work great. I use the RF Extender with them, for making changes from miles away in the house...i think it's the RF-300 or something...
> 
> 
> By the way, there ARE indeed discrete codes for DVD 1-4 and all other "virtual" and real inputs on the D2. There was an addendum to the original D2 manual that included those, I'm sure it's since been included in the later versions of the normal manual.
> 
> 
> [Just wanted to address that for the gentleman who was stating that Harmony told him that the D2 doesn't do that...they are WRONG, way wrong].
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Brian



Yes, macros for the additional inputs are in Appendix A of the updated manual.


----------



## ddimberio

New subject....what PJ are you guys recommending these days with the D2? My dealer wants to sell me the JVC DLA-HD1 badly...but I noticed it has a Gennum chip in it and I think this would be redundant, right?. What are your thoughts? - I don't think I want to spend more than $6,000.00 or so. What about the Epsons?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> New subject....what PJ are you guys recommending these days with the D2? My dealer wants to sell me the JVC DLA-HD1 badly...but I noticed it has a Gennum chip in it and I think this would be redundant, right?. What are your thoughts? - I don't think I want to spend more than $6,000.00 or so. What about the Epsons?



Many of us in this thread have the JVC (RS-1 or HD-1) projector with the D2, including myself (and the thread starter Levesque), and no, it is definitely NOT redundant. The flexibility of the Gennum in the D2 is much better than the JVC.


----------



## Anderslober

Hello guys(gals?)......just a small question....will the Anthem pre/pro's be upgradeable to the new audio formats , DTS master audio and Dolby True???


The thread probably has the info somewhere......but, alas....the thread is a bit long....thanks......


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Anderslober* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello guys(gals?)......just a small question....will the Anthem pre/pro's be upgradeable to the new audio formats , DTS master audio and Dolby True???
> 
> 
> The thread probably has the info somewhere......but, alas....the thread is a bit long....thanks......



No.


And they don't need to be. Just decode in the player (which is pretty much mandatory anyway) and send to the Anthem for audio bliss!


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> New subject....what PJ are you guys recommending these days with the D2? My dealer wants to sell me the JVC DLA-HD1 badly...but I noticed it has a Gennum chip in it and I think this would be redundant, right?. What are your thoughts? - I don't think I want to spend more than $6,000.00 or so. What about the Epsons?



The gennum chip in the JVC downright sucks compared to whats in the Anthem D2, I can definately speak with some certainty on this since I have the D2 and also had the JVC which I sold, also I have the Marantz VP11-S1 which also has the gennum chip, now in THAT projector the gennum has been properly implimented, 24hz, 2.35 vertical squeeze for anamophic lenses CMS adjustability etc..., in the case of the marantz that has a good implimenation of the gennum I still use the D2 processing although I have used the chip in both, in the case of the JVC I wouldnt even consider using it instead of the D2


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think one of the Sony players is considered the best - don't know the model number. I think a D2/AVM50 owner here has one and posted about it.
> 
> 
> The Oppo converts the SACD DSD data to PCM at 88.2 K sample rate. That conversion *could* be a point of degradation compared to DSD all the way to the Anthem for decoding. There's quite a few posts on the Oppo 970 thread that indicate the difference is pretty small. My own feeling is that if my SACD library was over a few dozen, I might look into the standalone SACD player - but the results I'm getting now with the Oppo are fine for me.
> 
> 
> If I'm going to add another player, it would be a BR or HD DVD - now that it seems a lot of the issues are disappearing with new generations of players.



From what I've read the PS3 does the best job at converting the sacd's dsd to pcm and allowing it to go via hdmi to be converted to analog in something like the D2. There's no possible way for the dsd to go all the way to the Anthem (or any other current processor AFAIK) and be DIRECTLY converted to analog. There are a few standalone players out there that convert dsd directly to analog, but I'm interested in just using the dacs in the Anthem so the Oppo or the PS3 will probably be just fine.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You want to set the Oppo HDMI Audio to Auto, and then use the HDMI for DVD-Video. I also use it for CD, SACD and DVD-A. Sounds excellent.
> 
> 
> The Auto setting lets the Oppo output either a bitstream (e.g. Dolby Digital or DTS) encoded with a DVD-Video title, *OR* decoded PCM (stereo or multichannel) and send it out over the same HDMI cable. The D2 then can either decode the DD/DTS or upsample and pass through the PCM.
> 
> 
> If you never play multichannel DVD-A, then you can leave the Oppo at 480i on the HDMI. Only when playing a multichannel DVD-A disc will you need to switch the output to 720p or 1080i.



I will try and check the OPPO firmware version tonight and post. In the above scenario it does not really matter what the Digital Output is set at then right as I am never using it? Should I just leave it as RAW or PCM?


I will switch my HDMI Audio to AUTO. Not sure I will be able to tell exactly that is going on from there. With the OPPO HDMI Audio set at LPCM the D2 indicates that it is accepting 6 channel 96kHz for both TrueHD and DD Plus. With DTS ES it says 768kbs and at least one dd5.1 showed 384kbs (or close to that) on the audio inputs.


Is that what I should see? I guess what I am asking is that if I am to "validate" that the HDMI Audio set to "Auto" is working, then what should the D2 be reporting it is receiving for each codec.


Currently with Digital Audio set to PCM and HDMI Audio Set to LPCM I get:

HD-DVD: DD Plus : 6 channel - 96kHz

HD-DVD: DD True HD : 6 channel - 96kHz

SD-DVD: DD5.1 (ES?) : 6 channel - 384kbs (Need to double-check)

SD-DVD: DTS-EX : 6 channel - 768kbs

DVD-A : 6 channel - 96kHz

SACD: : Not tried yet

CD: : Not tried yet


There might be variations even in the bits for a given movie with the same codec?


For example the SD-DVD: DTS-EX was LOTR ED. I watched a couple SD-DVD's , but I think the dd5.1 ES was SW 3 RotS (Is that a DD5.1 or dd5.1 ES?).


I can run them all through (Or if there are particular movies with dd5.1, dd5.1 ex/es etc that have known bandwidths then just let me know and I will test then out.


Cheers,


Richard.


----------



## Florindi

Hi All,


I wanted to know is anyone using a Dish Network VIP622 DVR with their D2/AVM50? I am having a picture shift issue. My picture is shifted by 8-10 pixels to the left. I own a 503cmx plasma that I am in dire need of upgrading when the new Pioneer 150FD 1080P is out. Anyway, the TV is using a aurora multimedia a304 card as the internal scaler. I am running 1080i out of the sat box and 1080i out of the avm50. If I bypass the avm50, then the picture is perfectly in the center. I have tried all horizontal adjustments between the tv and avm50 and I cannot fix this problem. I reported this issue today to Anthem and Nick was not in today so another fellow, (not Frank) took my info. Can anyone shed some light?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will try and check the OPPO firmware version tonight and post. In the above scenario it does not really matter what the Digital Output is set at then right as I am never using it? Should I just leave it as RAW or PCM?
> 
> 
> I will switch my HDMI Audio to AUTO. Not sure I will be able to tell exactly that is going on from there. With the OPPO HDMI Audio set at LPCM the D2 indicates that it is accepting 6 channel 96kHz for both TrueHD and DD Plus. With DTS ES it says 768kbs and at least one dd5.1 showed 384kbs (or close to that) on the audio inputs.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard.



Set your digital output to RAW. It affects the SPDIF and the HDMI as far as I remember.


Your bandwidth numbers sound like they're correct. DTS can have a higher bandwidth than Dolby for the lossy codecs.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> will the Anthem pre/pro's be upgradeable to the new audio formats , DTS master audio and Dolby True???



Anderslober,

Be sure to verify _exactly_ which codecs your Hi-Def player will decode.


----------



## jorsan

I need to find a rs-232 male to female cable to connect my computer with my AVM-50 but can't find it; what I found is rs232 to DB9 but don't know if this is the correct one and have some options: serial/modem, serial/monitor (I know this is not the one). Could you clarify this to me and send me a link where I can buy it?. Thanks in advance


----------



## funlvr1965

Anyone know how I can access the EDID setting in the D2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know how I can access the EDID setting in the D2?



I don't know how to get it the real way, i.e., via HDMI, except with a signal analyzer.


What are you trying to accomplish?


There may be a way to do whatever it is you are trying to do either with a serial port command (see the details in the software install kit from the Anthem web site) or with a gadget like DVI Detective.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jorsan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I need to find a rs-232 male to female cable to connect my computer with my AVM-50 but can't find it; what I found is rs232 to DB9 but don't know if this is the correct one and have some options: serial/modem, serial/monitor (I know this is not the one). Could you clarify this to me and send me a link where I can buy it?. Thanks in advance



You can get it at Radio Shack. It's a standard item for them. You need a "straight through" serial cable -- pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9 -- with a DB9 connector at each end (of the appropriate gender).


The only way you can screw this up is to get the identical looking cable, sometimes labeled as a "null modem" cable, that swaps some of the wires.


The standard packaging label on the one sold by Radio Shack shows the wiring (i.e. 1-9 --> 1-9). So just look for that to be sure.

--Bob


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I use a total of 3 MX-950's from Universal, one for each of the 3 Zones in the house, and they work great. I use the RF Extender with them, for making changes from miles away in the house...i think it's the RF-300 or something...
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Brian




I have (2) MX-850's and love them. They are so easy to program and to use, especially with the RF stations. The macros allow my 7 year old start up my theater system to play games or movies without issues. Considering it's turning everything on, adjusting inputs, setting zone 2 up, and adjusting for HDMI audio, but component video input, that's quite a feet.


I've sold the Pronto's in the past and you couldn't pay me to take one over my Universal MX-850. We've traded out a few older Pronto's we've sold to customers for MX's because people like the feel on a standard looking remote control. We've tried the harmony too, nice piece, but still couldn't compare to the Universal.


----------



## jorsan

Thanks Bob, I'll do it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Florindi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I wanted to know is anyone using a Dish Network VIP622 DVR with their D2/AVM50? I am having a picture shift issue. My picture is shifted by 8-10 pixels to the left. I own a 503cmx plasma that I am in dire need of upgrading when the new Pioneer 150FD 1080P is out. Anyway, the TV is using a aurora multimedia a304 card as the internal scaler. I am running 1080i out of the sat box and 1080i out of the avm50. If I bypass the avm50, then the picture is perfectly in the center. I have tried all horizontal adjustments between the tv and avm50 and I cannot fix this problem. I reported this issue today to Anthem and Nick was not in today so another fellow, (not Frank) took my info. Can anyone shed some light?



The first thing to do is to isolate whether the problem is on the output side (Anthem to TV) or on the input side (DVR to Anthem).


So select an Anthem input that has no video source connected to it, bring up the Video Souce Adjust / Patterns menu (under the "7") key and bring up a screen filling pattern such as the color bars pattern.


Now set any horizontal and vertical size and position adjustments on your TV to their factory default (mid point) positions).


Do you still see a horizontal shift? If so, go into Setup / Video Output on the Anthem and try the alternate setting of HDMI Sync. There are only two settings and choosing the wrong one will often result in a horizontal shift -- although usually much more dramatic than just 8 pixels -- or no image at all. If you loose the image, you can still see the menu in the Anthem front panel display to set things back. Remember that changes to the Video Output menu don't take effect until after you Back out of the menu and "accept" the change.


If you have no horizontal shift on the video output, then you know that the problem you are seeing is on the input side (despite the fact that a direct connection of DVR to TV produces no shifting). If you DO see the imaging shift, then you need to debug the output side. For example, try doing 720p out of the Anthem instead of 1080i.


Some HDMI source devices are pretty sloppy about the picture they put out -- cropping pixels for example, which is what you are likely seeing. It may just be that your DVR is one of those, and if the DVR offers no adjustment then you are stuck. In some cases the imaging error will only show up at some output resolutions. It could just be that your DVR is misreading what the Anthem is willing to receive as an input signal. If that's the case, your only option may be to switch to Component cabling from the DVR.


For HDMI, make sure you have HDMI Repeater = NO set in Setup / Source Setup for the DVR input. This simplifies the work the DVR has to do to figure out how to talk to the Anthem.


While playing the DVR video, bring up the Video Source Adjust / Crop Input menu and make sure that you have NOT selected Custom cropping and also that Edges is turned off and that you haven't set a Horizontal Offset by mistake.


Then go into Video Source Adjust / Scale Out and make sure you are using either Anamorphic or Letter/Pillar Box for scaling.


Then go into Video Source Adjust / Output and make sure Frame Lock = OFF.


Hopefully, one of the above will lead to a solution.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Anderslober* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello guys(gals?)......just a small question....will the Anthem pre/pro's be upgradeable to the new audio formats , DTS master audio and Dolby True???
> 
> 
> The thread probably has the info somewhere......but, alas....the thread is a bit long....thanks......



Not by a software upgrade. The only way to get Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD MA into the Anthem for decoding in the Anthem is via HDMI V1.3. That would require a hardware change in the Anthem as the HDMI chips are different. There is no reason to believe this is going to happen any time soon -- certainly not over the next year.


As Rob points out, the best solution, for LOTS of reasons, is to buy a PLAYER that has the decoders of interest to you (or can be upgraded to add them). The player then decodes these tracks into their component, multi-channel, high-bandwidth, PCM (digital audio) streams, and it is the PCM that comes over the HDMI connection to the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a way to auto power on AVM 50 if a unit is turn on? And the reverse, if a unit gets turn off then AVM 50 will power off?
> 
> 
> For example if I turn on my Direct TV the AVM will turn on?



Your best bet is likely to use a programmable remote control that will turn things on and off for you as needed according to what you want to do next. I use a Harmony 880 myself and it handles all that stuff just fine.


There is no incoming Trigger stuff on the Anthem, and most sources wouldn't offer an outbound Trigger anyway even if there were.


For fancy, custom configurations, the Anthem can be completely controlled from a computer-like device via it's RS-232 port.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *soapman72* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the Harmony 1000 and am quite happy with it. Programming the remote for multiple DVD players proved to be a hassle, due to the fact that the Anthem uses what Harmony tech's call "multi method" toggling for the DVD inputs 1-4. There is no way I know of for the consumer to program for more than 1 DVD player (unless the others are connected to inputs that are not DVD inputs).
> 
> 
> The level 2 techs at Harmony were fast and accurate though, when I needed help setting up for the sony, pioneer, and toshiba disc players in my system.



This is actually not that tough I believe.


Appendix A in the Anthem manual (available for download from the Anthem web site) shows 3 key combos that will directly select any of the "overlayed" source inputs -- e.g., DVD2 or DVD3.


Meanwhile, the Harmony configuration stuff has a place you can go to specify all the available Input settings on your AVR (the Anthem in your case), and HOW those Inputs are selected. One of the options is by pressing multiple keys on the AVR remote. So you go in there and for DVD1 you specify the single key on the remote, whereas for DVD2, etc., you specify the 3 key combos.


Then, whenever you tell an Activity to switch the Anthem to a particular Input, it will use the key combos you specified.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is true. Only DVD-A multichannel at 96K sample rate will push it over the bandwidth limit.



I believe multi-channel SACD also requires 720p or 1080i output resolution from the Oppo to get the full bandwidth of audio over HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can someone recommend a good Universal remote?
> 
> 
> I have the following :
> 
> 
> Panasonic TH 50PF9UK
> 
> DirecTV H20 recevier
> 
> Oppo 970 DVD Player
> 
> Apple Mini Mac
> 
> Home Theatre PC
> 
> XBox 360
> 
> 
> Future PlayStation 3
> 
> 
> Thank you.



I like the Logitech Harmony 880. It does not take a magician to program, and it gets the job done.

--Bob


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't know how to get it the real way, i.e., via HDMI, except with a signal analyzer.
> 
> 
> What are you trying to accomplish?
> 
> 
> There may be a way to do whatever it is you are trying to do either with a serial port command (see the details in the software install kit from the Anthem web site) or with a gadget like DVI Detective.
> 
> --Bob



Bob since the D2 only has one hdmi output and I have twp projectors Im using a genfen 1x4 splitter which is has one input whichattaches to the anthems single output and it then has 4 hdmi outputs which I connect my projectors to which allow me to share the hdmi signal coming from the D2, problem is that when I switch from the ps3 to toshiba hd player either the D2 or the Gefen is losing the handshake and all I get is snow, the only way to get video back is to either restart the D2 or the gefen splitter box so I was thinking that the if the edid setting in the D2 is off then maybe turning it on might be the solution, the gefen splitter enables its edid setting via a dipswitch inside the unit I have already tried that however I am still losing the handshake between these two devices so im hoping that the D2 holds the answer


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob since the D2 only has one hdmi output and I have twp projectors Im using a genfen 1x4 splitter which is has one input whichattaches to the anthems single output and it then has 4 hdmi outputs which I connect my projectors to which allow me to share the hdmi signal coming from the D2, problem is that when I switch from the ps3 to toshiba hd player either the D2 or the Gefen is losing the handshake and all I get is snow, the only way to get video back is to either restart the D2 or the gefen splitter box so I was thinking that the if the edid setting in the D2 is off then maybe turning it on might be the solution, the gefen splitter enables its edid setting via a dipswitch inside the unit I have already tried that however I am still losing the handshake between these two devices so im hoping that the D2 holds the answer



There is no D2 setting that will do this for you.


The Closest you can come is HDMI Repeater = NO, which is set in the Setup / Source Setup menu for each HDMI source. It makes the source device believe it is talking directly to a TV. The D2 then takes care of the rest.


If that doesn't do it for you, then you'll need to email Anthem tech support and see if they have another way of tackling this.

--Bob


----------



## funlvr1965

I have already emailed anthem about my previous problem with the clicks and pops and have not heard back from them and this was last week sometime


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have already emailed anthem about my previous problem with the clicks and pops and have not heard back from them and this was last week sometime



That's unusual. But I believe some of the usual people who handle this stuff may be out of the office right now.


Give them a phone call.

--Bob


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's unusual. But I believe some of the usual people who handle this stuff may be out of the office right now.
> 
> 
> Give them a phone call.
> 
> --Bob




Bob my lumagen hdq I had the ability to acces EDID settings I find it hard to believe that Anthem has overlooked this in the D2


----------



## jorsan

Just to let you know that since I bought my AVM-50 (5 months ago) never could use the HDMI connection between the processor and my SIM2 domino 30 projector; all that I was having was a green image. Just update my software from 1.11 to 1.12s (with the help of Frank from Anthem) and now everything works like a charm!.

If some of you are having same problems maybe this new beta software could solve them.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I took my PS3 into my dealer and ran it into his D2 setup (to make sure it wasn't the PS3) -- no clicks. I also pulled my D2 out of it's rack and bench tested it with just the PS3 and headphones (to eliminate other sources of interference) -- still clicks. Based on that, Nick has authorized a swap-out for me. Just waiting on D2 production, expected to ship out next week. I'll report back when the new unit comes in.
> 
> 
> In the mean time, you can have a few of my frustrated-owner mascots. Do be careful though, as they antagonize Rob's happy-owner mascots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope to swap these guys out for the happy ones next week.



I picked up my swap-out D2 today (it came with 1.20 firmware BTW) and installed it this afternoon. No more clicks or pops with PS3 input via PCM!!!


The frustrated-owner mascots are banished and happy days are here again.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I picked up my swap-out D2 today (it came with 1.20 firmware BTW) and installed it this afternoon. No more clicks or pops with PS3 input via PCM!!!
> 
> 
> The frustrated-owner mascots are banished and happy days are here again.



In that case, you need the _real_ Anthem Mascots:


----------



## rudyD

I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this question. If it is not, then I do opologize. However, I have followed this thread with great interest. I want one of the Anthem prepros' ( D2 or AVM 50) the question is which one? I currently have an Integra RDC-7 controller. It has served me well over the last several years. So the question is, which one of the current Anthem products from a audio prospective doest it match up too/ It might not 'matchup' at all, however I would greatly appreciate it, if you would share your opinion.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In that case, you need the _real_ Anthem Mascots:



Thanks, Rob.


Now that I'm happy with the audio from the PS3 it's time to work on video. The PS3's new 1.90 firmware release supports 24p, and it seems from posts here that the D2 supports 24p -- I need a projector that supports 24p (also more lumens, higher native CR, etc, etc, etc). Maybe this fall...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob my lumagen hdq I had the ability to acces EDID settings I find it hard to believe that Anthem has overlooked this in the D2



Like I said, give Anthem tech support a call. I know of no way to do it.


Other posters here have said that Anthem seems quite willing to take suggestions for future software features.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jorsan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just to let you know that since I bought my AVM-50 (5 months ago) never could use the HDMI connection between the processor and my SIM2 domino 30 projector; all that I was having was a green image. Just update my software from 1.11 to 1.12s (with the help of Frank from Anthem) and now everything works like a charm!.
> 
> If some of you are having same problems maybe this new beta software could solve them.



Hey! Good news! I recall your earlier frustration with the hookup to that projector, and I thought it would end up being a lost cause. Chalk one up for Anthem!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I picked up my swap-out D2 today (it came with 1.20 firmware BTW) and installed it this afternoon. No more clicks or pops with PS3 input via PCM!!!
> 
> 
> The frustrated-owner mascots are banished and happy days are here again.



More good news! So I take it your clicking D2 is on its way back to Anthem. With any luck it won't take them long to figure out if this is a hardware batch problem or a software problem that only affects some hardware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudyD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this question. If it is not, then I do opologize. However, I have followed this thread with great interest. I want one of the Anthem prepros' ( D2 or AVM 50) the question is which one? I currently have an Integra RDC-7 controller. It has served me well over the last several years. So the question is, which one of the current Anthem products from a audio prospective doest it match up too/ It might not 'matchup' at all, however I would greatly appreciate it, if you would share your opinion.



This is awfully tough to answer. It's not just the comparison of the Integra to either Anthem. It's also what else you have in your audio setup and listening room, and how critical a listener you are. These will affect what differences you might hear.


Ideally you should try to arrange with your dealer to try both units in your room with the rest of your equipment.

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> More good news! So I take it your clicking D2 is on its way back to Anthem.



Left it with my dealer late this afternoon, so it should be on its way tomorrow. I'll drop a note to Nick to tell him that the new unit fixed the problem.


----------



## Milt99

rudyD,

After living with the RDC-7, I'd think the D2 would satisfy you better than the AVM-50 from an audio standpoint.

Be advised that the Anthem will not sound like the Integra Research.

In my experience the IR has a "warmer" more forgiving palette.

I would highly recommend doing an in-home audition to see if the the D2 is your cup of tea.


----------



## rudyD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is awfully tough to answer. It's not just the comparison of the Integra to either Anthem. It's also what else you have in your audio setup and listening room, and how critical a listener you are. These will affect what differences you might hear.
> 
> 
> Ideally you should try to arrange with your dealer to try both units in your room with the rest of your equipment.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks for your response. I purposely didn't provide too much detail. I do critical listening and thought I might be able to get away with the AVM 50 I appreciate you answering. I know this is the tweak thread. Hopefully I'll join the ranks soon


----------



## rudyD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> rudyD,
> 
> After living with the RDC-7, I'd think the D2 would satisfy you better than the AVM-50 from an audio standpoint.
> 
> Be advised that the Anthem will not sound like the Integra Research.
> 
> In my experience the IR has a "warmer" more forgiving palette.
> 
> I would highly recommend doing an in-home audition to see if the the D2 is your cup of tea.



Milt99;

Thanks for your response. I was hoping to hear from former IR - RDC-7 owners. I know its a personal preference thing. But your information is helpful. To be honest, I was trying to get away with the AVM 50, you know saving ~2k. But, I also do not want any regrets. It just going to take me longer to get the D2.

FYI- I just purchased a Statement P2.( It replaced my Proceed HBA) On my list of potential upgrades are;

sony pearl ( From current BenQ 8770) or the JVC PJ. So its a question of what first and when, LOL


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudyD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, thanks for your response. I purposely didn't provide too much detail. I do critical listening and thought I might be able to get away with the AVM 50 I appreciate you answering. I know this is the tweak thread. Hopefully I'll join the ranks soon



If you do CRITICAL Listening - then the D2 is your choice.


Don't gamble on some new widget. These grounds are full

of EARLY ADOPTER problems and no one is like Anthem

when it comes to fixing the HDMI JUNK from others that is

OUT THERE. Anthem Customer Tech Support is like NO

ONE ELSE.


As for quality - I came from a Lexicon MC-12b and the

D2 is orders of magnitude better.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudyD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, thanks for your response. I purposely didn't provide too much detail. I do critical listening and thought I might be able to get away with the AVM 50 I appreciate you answering. I know this is the tweak thread. Hopefully I'll join the ranks soon



I never actually compared the D2 against the AVM-50 myself. I was buying the D2 primarily for its integrated video processing at the time -- and the AVM-50 wasn't yet shipping. As I've stated more than once, I've been VERY pleasantly surprised by the quality of the D2's audio -- no regrets there, it's all been upside for me -- but to date I STILL haven't actually compared it against an AVM-50 to see how close the AVM-50 might come to matching that.


What I CAN say is that the tally of posters here who HAVE compared the D2 and AVM-50 for critical audio performance seems to be running something better than 3 to 1 in favor of stating that you CAN here the improvement in the D2's audio solution.


There have been very few attempts to quantify that difference, and AVM-50 owners ALSO post that they are quite happy (the AVM-50 is no slouch by any means). But there have been only a handful of posts from folks who said they did careful comparison and decided the AVM-50 sounded "just as good". Mostly, AVM-50 purchase decisions came down to the issue of cost -- the AVM-50 was "good enough" when faced with the extra $2k price tag to go to the D2 and reach for that more exotic audio solution. That money might be better spent on upgrading other components as well for example.


As always with high end audio it is hard to separate the wishful thinking from the expert opinion. And there really haven't been all that many people posting on this here. I'm not so sure the 192KHz upsampling in the D2 isn't overkill for example. But I think it highly likely that the improved power supply in the D2 (over the AVM-50) will produce improvement you can hear with the right balance of other equipment.

--Bob


----------



## Florindi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The first thing to do is to isolate whether the problem is on the output side (Anthem to TV) or on the input side (DVR to Anthem).
> 
> 
> So select an Anthem input that has no video source connected to it, bring up the Video Souce Adjust / Patterns menu (under the "7") key and bring up a screen filling pattern such as the color bars pattern.
> 
> 
> Now set any horizontal and vertical size and position adjustments on your TV to their factory default (mid point) positions).
> 
> 
> Do you still see a horizontal shift? If so, go into Setup / Video Output on the Anthem and try the alternate setting of HDMI Sync. There are only two settings and choosing the wrong one will often result in a horizontal shift -- although usually much more dramatic than just 8 pixels -- or no image at all. If you loose the image, you can still see the menu in the Anthem front panel display to set things back. Remember that changes to the Video Output menu don't take effect until after you Back out of the menu and "accept" the change.
> 
> 
> If you have no horizontal shift on the video output, then you know that the problem you are seeing is on the input side (despite the fact that a direct connection of DVR to TV produces no shifting). If you DO see the imaging shift, then you need to debug the output side. For example, try doing 720p out of the Anthem instead of 1080i.
> 
> 
> Some HDMI source devices are pretty sloppy about the picture they put out -- cropping pixels for example, which is what you are likely seeing. It may just be that your DVR is one of those, and if the DVR offers no adjustment then you are stuck. In some cases the imaging error will only show up at some output resolutions. It could just be that your DVR is misreading what the Anthem is willing to receive as an input signal. If that's the case, your only option may be to switch to Component cabling from the DVR.
> 
> 
> For HDMI, make sure you have HDMI Repeater = NO set in Setup / Source Setup for the DVR input. This simplifies the work the DVR has to do to figure out how to talk to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> While playing the DVR video, bring up the Video Source Adjust / Crop Input menu and make sure that you have NOT selected Custom cropping and also that Edges is turned off and that you haven't set a Horizontal Offset by mistake.
> 
> 
> Then go into Video Source Adjust / Scale Out and make sure you are using either Anamorphic or Letter/Pillar Box for scaling.
> 
> 
> Then go into Video Source Adjust / Output and make sure Frame Lock = OFF.
> 
> 
> Hopefully, one of the above will lead to a solution.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


What I did to resolve this is as follows: output 1080i out of dvr into avm50. The output was set to 720p. I also have a scaler output from the internal scaler set to 1080i as 720p look like crap. This seems to fix the shift and the picture quality did not change at least to my eye. I will have to try the hdmi sync setting to see if it would of made a difference with the avm50 set to 1080i output. I also tried using component out with all settings at 1080i and you could still see the shift. The shift was always only with sd channels.


-Anthony


----------



## Florindi

Bob et al,


I still have an issue with my PS3 not always syncing up right away when I choose to play a BR disc. I get the snow picture for a minute or so and then it syncs up. If I stop the movie and restart I get the same problem. I mentioned it to Anthem, but I didn't really get any real solution. I am running 1.12s


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudyD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, thanks for your response. I purposely didn't provide too much detail. I do critical listening and thought I might be able to get away with the AVM 50 I appreciate you answering. I know this is the tweak thread. Hopefully I'll join the ranks soon



I'll second what DrHankz said - the D2 is your best choice for critical listening. All audio inputs are upsampled @ 192 KHz (as opposed to the AVM 50 @ 96 KHz).


Also, only the D2 will have the Room correction feature.


The one thing to remember is that you are getting a top notch video processor along with pristine audio.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll second what DrHankz said - the D2 is your best choice for critical listening. All audio inputs are upsampled @ 192 KHz (as opposed to the AVM 50 @ 96 KHz).
> 
> 
> Also, only the D2 will have the Room correction feature.
> 
> 
> The one thing to remember is that you are getting a top notch video processor along with pristine audio.



Gordon ---

SO CORRECTLY SAID


I also sold my DVDO VP50 Video Processor and the D2

does everything the VP50 did and BETTER.


And then best part of OWNING a D2 is you get MASCOTS!


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As always with high end audio it is hard to separate the wishful thinking from the expert opinion. And there really haven't been all that many people posting on this here. I'm not so sure the 192KHz upsampling in the D2 isn't overkill for example. But I think it highly likely that the improved power supply in the D2 (over the AVM-50) will produce improvement you can hear with the right balance of other equipment.
> 
> --Bob



I have the AVM50 , haven't heard the D2. I sold a Meridian 508.24 CD player and a Placette balanced passive preamp as part of my upgrade to the AVM50. Initially, I was OK with the 2-channel (music) performance simply using my DVD player as a CD transport and allowing the AVM50 to do the rest. I've since changed that opinion as I've become somewhat dissatisfied over time with this configuration. I'm now using the 2 channel analog direct XLR input on the AVM50 with a Li Te tube DAC (DAC 68) which has improved things. I have a Meridian 500 CD transport on the way which I hope will improve it further and get me back what I'm missing.


I guess my point is this: the performance of the D2/AVM50 should be almost identical with an analog direct connection. If you're like me and plan to have a quasi-separate setup for 2-channel music, you might save 2k and go with the AVM50. Could the D2 be that much better and supplant the need for a separate 2-channel setup? Maybe, but experience is telling me this is unlikely at least for my taste.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Florindi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob et al,
> 
> 
> I still have an issue with my PS3 not always syncing up right away when I choose to play a BR disc. I get the snow picture for a minute or so and then it syncs up. If I stop the movie and restart I get the same problem. I mentioned it to Anthem, but I didn't really get any real solution. I am running 1.12s



My PS3 syncs immediately and always has, both with my old problematic D2 and my new swap-out unit. Same regardless of D2 firmware 1.11e/g/q/s/1.20, as well as every PS3 firmware release from the original thru 1.90.


Could you have a settings problem?


----------



## rudyD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I never actually compared the D2 against the AVM-50 myself. I was buying the D2 primarily for its integrated video processing at the time -- and the AVM-50 wasn't yet shipping. As I've stated more than once, I've been VERY pleasantly surprised by the quality of the D2's audio -- no regrets there, it's all been upside for me -- but to date I STILL haven't actually compared it against an AVM-50 to see how close the AVM-50 might come to matching that.
> 
> 
> What I CAN say is that the tally of posters here who HAVE compared the D2 and AVM-50 for critical audio performance seems to be running something better than 3 to 1 in favor of stating that you CAN here the improvement in the D2's audio solution.
> 
> 
> There have been very few attempts to quantify that difference, and AVM-50 owners ALSO post that they are quite happy (the AVM-50 is no slouch by any means). But there have been only a handful of posts from folks who said they did careful comparison and decided the AVM-50 sounded "just as good". Mostly, AVM-50 purchase decisions came down to the issue of cost -- the AVM-50 was "good enough" when faced with the extra $2k price tag to go to the D2 and reach for that more exotic audio solution. That money might be better spent on upgrading other components as well for example.
> 
> 
> As always with high end audio it is hard to separate the wishful thinking from the expert opinion. And there really haven't been all that many people posting on this here. I'm not so sure the 192KHz upsampling in the D2 isn't overkill for example. But I think it highly likely that the improved power supply in the D2 (over the AVM-50) will produce improvement you can hear with the right balance of other equipment.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, sage advise


----------



## rudyD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gordon ---
> 
> SO CORRECTLY SAID
> 
> 
> I also sold my DVDO VP50 Video Processor and the D2
> 
> does everything the VP50 did and BETTER.
> 
> 
> And then best part of OWNING a D2 is you get MASCOTS!



Thats seems to be the beauty of this device


----------



## pldrive

Can someone email me V1.12s. Nick sent it to me today, but I did not get the attachment.


Thanks so much


----------



## rudolpht

I go away for 2 weeks and it takes a week to catch up. I thought I would return to a new production firmware release, but instead am greeted with Sony ES ads that have 8 channel PCM decoding, multi-zone HD output, 6 HDMI ports, 1.3 (don't care except for audio bandwidth), 1080p/60 & 24 upconversion/passing. Sony? I never would even think of an ES receiver BUT it sets the feature bar of what Anthem needs to have in the D3 (I hope). Now I know quality wise the Sony vid solution with pale, but....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pldrive* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can someone email me V1.12s. Nick sent it to me today, but I did not get the attachment.
> 
> 
> Thanks so much



I reminder to folks making requests like this: You need to specify whether you have an AVM-50 or a D2. The software install file is different because the hardware is different.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Florindi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob et al,
> 
> 
> I still have an issue with my PS3 not always syncing up right away when I choose to play a BR disc. I get the snow picture for a minute or so and then it syncs up. If I stop the movie and restart I get the same problem. I mentioned it to Anthem, but I didn't really get any real solution. I am running 1.12s



I think you may need to upgrade/shorten your HDMI cables. 1080p connections put much higher demands on HDMI cable design than 1080i or below. Adding high bandwidth audio on top of that just makes it harder to get a good connection if the cabling is marginal.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I go away for 2 weeks and it takes a week to catch up. I thought I would return to a new production firmware release,...



Apparently all you need to do to get the production V1.20 Anthem software is buy a new D2 or AVM-50. (grin!) That's what they are shipping now as the factory install.


I'm not sure what the delay is in getting it on the web site for download. Quite possibly they are doing more testing of the installer since, as they found out with the V1.10 release, it is MUCH tougher to get an installer that works reliably in the field given the weird Windows configs floating around out there than it is to get an installer working in the controlled environment in the factory.


In the interim, however, I wish they'd pull the V1.11 stuff off the web site or replace it with the V1.11e version. It bothers me that folks out there who are not reading this thread might still be attempting to download and install that V1.11 stuff, with all its known problems.


[Deleted Sony stuff. Sony will NEVER be the bar that Anthem has to reach! (again, grin!)]

--Bob


----------



## yourlilbro

Question to all D2 fans and owners:


Are you worried that the new Denon pre/pro will surpass our D2s in SQ and PQ?


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Question to all D2 fans and owners:
> 
> Are you worried that the new Denon pre/pro will surpass our D2s in SQ and PQ?



Worried? Nah! While these new Denon pieces are bound to be excellent performers, Denon will never provide the support that Anthem does.


----------



## yourlilbro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Worried? Nah! While these new Denon pieces are bound to be excellent performers, Denon will never provide the support that Anthem does.



You got that right! Ultra fast support is a plus. Everytime I look at the picture and the sound of the D2, I get blown away!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question to all D2 fans and owners:
> 
> 
> Are you worried that the new Denon pre/pro will surpass our D2s in SQ and PQ?



Not worried here.


I bought a top-of-the-line Denon before I bought my D2.

I returned it in 24 hours.


The Denon - as compared to my Lexicon MC-12b was like

having a GHETTO box.


After I bought the D2 - I was very happy selling the MC-12b.

Selling it and my DVDO VP50 paid for my D2 and I had money

left over










And OTHERS have addressed the SUPPORT ISSUE.


Denon's only support is - a phone call where some human

is trained to say that is the way it is


----------



## yourlilbro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not worried here.
> 
> 
> I bought a top-of-the-line Denon before I bought my D2.
> 
> I returned it in 24 hours.
> 
> 
> The Denon - as compared to my Lexicon MC-12b was like
> 
> having a GHETTO box.
> 
> 
> After I bought the D2 - I was very happy selling the MC-12b.
> 
> Selling it and my DVDO VP50 paid for my D2 and I had money
> 
> left over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And OTHERS have addressed the SUPPORT ISSUE.
> 
> 
> Denon's only support is - a phone call where some human
> 
> is trained to say that is the way it is



Nice.


How would you compare the D2 and the MC-12b?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nice.
> 
> 
> How would you compare the D2 and the MC-12b?



I have owned every Lexicon Pre/Pro since the CP-1.


Lexicon was KING in my book. I actually set out to upgrade

the MC-12b to the MC-12HD. But the Lexicon MC-12HD will

not support 1080p and has no video processor in it. I still

needed to KEEP my DVDO VP50. The 1080i limitation was

a deal breaker for me.


HOW do they compare? There is a NEW KING on the block










And the rest of my equipment and purpose-built theater

supports the new King.


If the rest of your audio chain is not top-notch - you might

not be able to appreciate how GOOD the D2 is. Since the

Mc-12b audio is so good - I won't say the D2 is SIGNIFICANTLY

better. The D2 audio is better than the MC-12b - but when

you factor all the other things together like --


1) D2 Audio quality 10 out of 10

MC-12b Audio Quality 9 out of 10


2) Video Processing 10 out of 10

MC-12HD Video Processing 0 out of 10


3) Customer Support 10 out of 10.

MC-12xx Customer Support 3 out of 10



Then I would rank the MC-12b as a 4 out of 10 and the

D2 as a 10 out of 10.


----------



## RROSEN

Hahaa Bob,


Your timing is impeccable. I was just about to post a question about why everyone was talking about upgrading to 1.12 when I was sure my D2 says 1.2x (Well Manual 1.2x and display 1.2).


You answered that one just before I typed this.


On another front, after much pain and suffering (I won't go into detail on everything I went through... for a change) I got my PC working with my TV again. I am now running XP and debating whether or not I want to even bother with dual booting Vista at this point.


It basically maps to within about 1/2 inch all around the screen using HDMI 1 (PC input setting type) which provides a great picture.


When I go through the D2 it reasonably does not recognize the input as from a PC and therefor that option is not offered. Means I have an over-scanned image to work with (IE. For example the leftmost icons cannot be seen as that is about how much overflows the screen). Is there a way to make this fit in the "7" menu?


In any case I am not sure the image would be improved. I am just happy to have it working again.


PS. I am having HDMI sync issues with my HD-A1 now hahaa. It works eventually, but sometimes I need to hit play 3-4 times before it catches. Unfortunately I recently updated my firmware and changed the cable (to the one included with the OPPO so that should be fine right?) so other than trying a cable swap troubleshooting may be a little tricky. Hope it isn't the firmware which is needed for some of the Internet interactivity on the new discs.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Apparently all you need to do to get the production V1.20 Anthem software is buy a new D2 or AVM-50. (grin!) That's what they are shipping now as the factory install.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what the delay is in getting it on the web site for download. Quite possibly they are doing more testing of the installer since, as they found out with the V1.10 release, it is MUCH tougher to get an installer that works reliably in the field given the weird Windows configs floating around out there than it is to get an installer working in the controlled environment in the factory.
> 
> 
> In the interim, however, I wish they'd pull the V1.11 stuff off the web site or replace it with the V1.11e version. It bothers me that folks out there who are not reading this thread might still be attempting to download and install that V1.11 stuff, with all its known problems.
> 
> 
> [Deleted Sony stuff. Sony will NEVER be the bar that Anthem has to reach! (again, grin!)]
> 
> --Bob



For what it is worth, Nick told me:


"v1.12s and v1.20 are identical except in designation. v1.20 exists only new production units."


So if you have 1.12s, you have 1.2.


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 3) Customer Support 10 out of 10.
> 
> MC-12xx Customer Support 3 out of 10
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would rank the MC-12b as a 4 out of 10 and the
> 
> D2 as a 10 out of 10.




3/10 as you never needed customer service. The processors are solid and never really broke / failed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For what it is worth, Nick told me:
> 
> 
> "v1.12s and v1.20 are identical except in designation. v1.20 exists only new production units."
> 
> 
> So if you have 1.12s, you have 1.2.



Did Nick happen to mention when they plan to put up V1.12s/V1.20 on the web site for existing customers? They'll also need to update the manual on the web site.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball

I don't know if anyone is old enough to remember the time when we got our nourishment from round , flat, frisbee like objects made out of vinal. One of the optimal products came from Sheffield Labs and some of us bought albums that almost cost as much as a new car. Those reference disks finally made the evolutionary leap to silver and I wonder if anyone here has seen or knows where I might find the Sheffield Labs 'Direct Plus' Tower of Power CD?


Sorry for the OT reference but I seem to remember that there were a number of audiophiles that lurked on this thread.


Any advice or help?


Peter


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Anyone know of a reason that I should trade in my D1 and buy a D2 rather than upgrade the D1?


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did Nick happen to mention when they plan to put up V1.12s/V1.20 on the web site for existing customers? They'll also need to update the manual on the web site.
> 
> --Bob




Bob,

I have to think that the reluctance to post the 1.20 final production release is not an accident or oversight. It just doesn't make sense as Anthem has to know that there are a significant number of users who have been waiting for the official sanctioned release before upgrading.


I am still using 1.10 with a number of deficiencies and would very much like to upgrade, but to a definitive public release that at least represents a stable starting platform that this community can be encouraged to upgrade to and in turn that we can now begin to consider calibrating our equipment with a common experience set to share our knowledge.


Finally, it makes sense for Anthem to publicly announce this release as a step forward for the Statement product line in their ongoing commitment to upgrade the technology on a regular basis.



I for one would encourage Anthem to make a huge splash as alot of work and colaboration went into the result. This is one case where they can give their support staff and the engineers a well deserved pat on the back.


----------



## AnthemAVM

There is one on Amazon for $114.99, new.


Yikes


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't know if anyone is old enough to remember the time when we got our nourishment from round , flat, frisbee like objects made out of vinal. One of the optimal products came from Sheffield Labs and some of us bought albums that almost cost as much as a new car. Those reference disks finally made the evolutionary leap to silver and I wonder if anyone here has seen or knows where I might find the Sheffield Labs 'Direct Plus' Tower of Power CD?
> 
> 
> Sorry for the OT reference but I seem to remember that there were a number of audiophiles that lurked on this thread.
> 
> 
> Any advice or help?
> 
> 
> Peter



There is one on Amazon for a price of $114.99


Yikes


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know of a reason that I should trade in my D1 and buy a D2 rather than upgrade the D1?



You get a shiny new warranty with a new D2, which is longer than the warranty on the upgrade parts but not as long as the warranty Anthem used to offer.


The rest of the parts (power supply, remote controls for example) will also be new. All electronics wear out eventually, and this restarts the clock. [On the downside, most electronic failures within the first couple years of ownership actually happen within the first 90 days. So new parts come with a small degree of "infant mortality" risk as well.]


You will also get a smile from your dealer, since he undoubtedly makes more money if you do the trade-in. And depending upon when you do it, you may be able to get a new D2 much faster than waiting for the turnaround on an upgrade.


From a feature/performance point of view there is no difference between a D2 and an upgraded D1 --> D1-HD.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Thanks, silly as is sounds being without for two to three weeks seems like a lot at this point.


"You get a shiny new warranty with a new D2, which is longer than the warranty on the upgrade parts but not as long as the warranty Anthem used to offer.


The rest of the parts (power supply, remote controls for example) will also be new. All electronics wear out eventually, and this restarts the clock. [On the downside, most electronic failures within the first couple years of ownership actually happen within the first 90 days. So new parts come with a small degree of "infant mortality" risk as well.]


You will also get a smile from your dealer, since he undoubtedly makes more money if you do the trade-in. And depending upon when you do it, you may be able to get a new D2 much faster than waiting for the turnaround on an upgrade.


From a feature/performance point of view there is no difference between a D2 and an upgraded D1 --> D1-HD.

--Bob"


----------



## Ian_Currie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For what it is worth, Nick told me:
> 
> 
> "v1.12s and v1.20 are identical except in designation. v1.20 exists only new production units."
> 
> 
> So if you have 1.12s, you have 1.2.



Hmmm.. I was hoping they would fix the problems with 1.12s... the fact they are now calling it 1.20 makes me not so sure...


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know of a reason that I should trade in my D1 and buy a D2 rather than upgrade the D1?




Ego???????



ok,ok, money?


I believe that the only functional difference in the end result is a few letters on the front panel.


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm.. I was hoping they would fix the problems with 1.12s... the fact they are now calling it 1.20 makes me not so sure...



Yeah. It's a puzzle.


It's also going to be fun if they start shipping an intermediate version such as V1.12t with new fixes.....

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> [Deleted Sony stuff. Sony will NEVER be the bar that Anthem has to reach! (again, grin!)]
> 
> --Bob



I know it will never be a quality bar, support bar, or even if thirsty a bar I will ever go to







, but a feature bar was what I was inferring for the D3 (which does make sense getting - being vapor - vs an AVM-50 -> D2 upgrade).


6 HDMI

8 channel PCM

Built-in HD CODECs

2 Zone protected HDMI outs

....


----------



## pldrive

Bob U are right, I was in a hurry to update and failed specify which equiment. Anyway i have the update (v1.12s) i needed for the D2.



Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know it will never be a quality bar, support bar, or even if thirsty a bar I will ever go to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but a feature bar was what I was inferring for the D3 (which does make sense getting - being vapor - vs an AVM-50 -> D2 upgrade).



I always think of Sony as sort of lowering the mini-bar. But that's just me...

--Bob


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm.. I was hoping they would fix the problems with 1.12s... the fact they are now calling it 1.20 makes me not so sure...



I was also a bit disconcerted hearing that 1.20 might be the same as 1.12s... trying 1.12s on my system introduced 2 significant problems which 1.11e did not have:


1) JVC 5U D-VHS no longer handshakes properly with the D2 when outputting 1080i... a never ending loop of: a couple of seconds of proper video, a couple of seconds of blue screen and then a couple of seconds of an error message in 480i from the JVC stating that it is not connected to an HDCP compliant device. The JVC works just fine with the D2 with 1.11e.


2) On startup, I would sometimes get no audio/video from the D2. Only power cycling the D2 would bring it back (and then not always... sometimes would take several attempts). No other power cycling/input switching, etc. would get things to work. Never a startup problem with 1.11e... regardless of the order the devices are powered up.


I am now back running 1.11e.


----------



## Don O’Brien

I have a PJ connected via HDMI that requires an extended RGB setting, but my second monitor is hooked up via YPbPr from the zone 1 output. I cannot find a combination of settings that allow both of these to work simultaneously, I have to go in and manually change the color space for this to work. Is there a software version that allows setting the HDMI output to one color space while setting the YPbPr output to a different color space?

I would prefer not to use the zone 2 output in pass through.


Thanks


----------



## Florindi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think you may need to upgrade/shorten your HDMI cables. 1080p connections put much higher demands on HDMI cable design than 1080i or below. Adding high bandwidth audio on top of that just makes it harder to get a good connection if the cabling is marginal.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I have one 4 ft and one 8ft monster m850 HDMI cables. I don't see how much shorter or better I need to get?


----------



## Florindi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was also a bit disconcerted hearing that 1.20 might be the same as 1.12s... trying 1.12s on my system introduced 2 significant problems which 1.11e did not have:
> 
> 
> 1) JVC 5U D-VHS no longer handshakes properly with the D2 when outputting 1080i... a never ending loop of: a couple of seconds of proper video, a couple of seconds of blue screen and then a couple of seconds of an error message in 480i from the JVC stating that it is not connected to an HDCP compliant device. The JVC works just fine with the D2 with 1.11e.
> 
> 
> 2) On startup, I would sometimes get no audio/video from the D2. Only power cycling the D2 would bring it back (and then not always... sometimes would take several attempts). No other power cycling/input switching, etc. would get things to work. Never a startup problem with 1.11e... regardless of the order the devices are powered up.
> 
> 
> I am now back running 1.11e.



I second that. I thought I was going crazy tonight when for the first time turning on the system I got no sound or picture. I thought something died. I cycled power and it came up. This is very bad behavior. I am still having sync issues with my PS3 and Oppo, but not my DVR. I spoke with Frank today and they seem to have no answers to this problem. Sometimes I wonder why I even bother with all this new technology?


----------



## Bluecrow

Nine Ball,


Have the original lp of Tower of Power Direct...in perfect original condition.


----------



## rudolpht

I'm hoping 1.12s is not 1.2 also


----------



## scottshd

just got my d2 p5 on 7-23 trying to get everyyhing figured out I can't get the osd for video source adjustment the d2 says see osd but there is nothing on the tv is it only available with hdmi? I have a old mitsi rear projection tv that only has s-vidio I get the setup menu 1-14 have to up grade my display not sure what to get thinking about another mitsi rear or a plasma if I go plasma will a 720p let me take full advantage of the d2? or do I have to have a 1080p? thanks for any help anyone can offer scott


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Don O'Brien* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a PJ connected via HDMI that requires an extended RGB setting, but my second monitor is hooked up via YPbPr from the zone 1 output. I cannot find a combination of settings that allow both of these to work simultaneously, I have to go in and manually change the color space for this to work. Is there a software version that allows setting the HDMI output to one color space while setting the YPbPr output to a different color space?
> 
> I would prefer not to use the zone 2 output in pass through.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Don,

I don't know of a way to do this. You could contact Anthem tech support and put this in as a feature request, but the Anthems are designed to give priority to the best settings for the primary display, with the secondary display most usually relegated to "pass through". That means you can have problems like this if you are trying to drive two displays with "processed" video when the displays require different processing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> just got my d2 p5 on 7-23 trying to get everyyhing figured out I can't get the osd for video source adjustment the d2 says see osd but there is nothing on the tv is it only available with hdmi? I have a old mitsi rear projection tv that only has s-vidio I get the setup menu 1-14 have to up grade my display not sure what to get thinking about another mitsi rear or a plasma if I go plasma will a 720p let me take full advantage of the d2? or do I have to have a 1080p? thanks for any help anyone can offer scott



No, the OSD should be available on the S-Video, Component, and HDMI outputs. It will not be available on Composite output.


There is a setting in Setup / Displays & Time Out which will alter whether the S-video version of the OSD is used. Compare your settings in that menu against the defaults shown in the Anthem manual and correct any settings that are different.


For setup purposes, be aware that you can also see the menus displayed in the Anthem's front panel display until you get the OSD working properly.


If after double checking the menus, you still can't get the OSD over S-video output, contact Anthem tech support. There have been a few reports here of units with faulty character generators (a hardware fault).


----------------------------------------------


Although there are certainly advantages with a new 1080p display, there are many Anthem owners on this thread using 720p or 768p displays. I'm using a Fujitsu 768p display myself.


But if I were buying a new display today, I'd get a 1080p display that can also accept 1080p/24Hz input and display it at a refresh rate which is a multiple of 24Hz.

--Bob


----------



## scottshd

Bob thanks for the reply checked displays timeouts set as in the manual went to anthems web site and found that video source adjustment osd is only available with component or hdmi


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob thanks for the reply checked displays timeouts set as in the manual went to anthems web site and found that video source adjustment osd is only available with component or hdmi



I agree with Bob's NEW DISPLAY recommendation above.


Upgrading to a 1080p/24 display is the only way to justify

the long-term benefits of your investment.


You have made a great investment in the D2 and its Video

capabilities will be WASTED on anything less than a 1080p/24

display.


Like Bob said - if you already had 720p - that is something

you can live with. But BUYING a 720p display today is buying

and OBSOLETE technology.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob thanks for the reply checked displays timeouts set as in the manual went to anthems web site and found that video source adjustment osd is only available with component or hdmi



I don't believe that is correct, although I haven't actually tried it myself.


What they are saying in the technology writeup on the Anthem site is that these displays are available on Component or HDMI regardless of the output resolutions. Some products only produce OSD when Component or HDMI output is limited to 480p. S-video is of course always and only 480i, so there's no need to make a statement like that for S-video.


On the other hand, I thought you were asking about the simpler OSD displays for Volume and such which do appear on S-video output. I can't recall for sure whether anyone here has posted that they are seeing the Video Source Adjust menu on the Main path S-video output.


We have a few folks here who are using small S-video panels as setup and adjustment displays along with the video on their main display. Perhaps some of them can comment on whether they are getting the Video Source Adjust menu displays on the S-video, along with the character generator stuff for Volume and so forth.


You can also access the setup functions of that Video Source Adjust menu using the Live Video Settings editor running on a Windows PC (serial cable to the Anthem).

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bluecrow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nine Ball,
> 
> 
> Have the original lp of Tower of Power Direct...in perfect original condition.



I gave up the technology to play vinyl a long time ago or you would be sitting on a very valuable piece of property. If I recall there are at least two cuts on that album that do not exist on any other released product. I believe that Sheffield Labs did release a cd in a loseless format and I would love to get that for reference purposes which would be the closest thing to the original.


Peter


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Florindi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I second that. I thought I was going crazy tonight when for the first time turning on the system I got no sound or picture. I thought something died. I cycled power and it came up. This is very bad behavior. I am still having sync issues with my PS3 and Oppo, but not my DVR. I spoke with Frank today and they seem to have no answers to this problem. Sometimes I wonder why I even bother with all this new technology?



I've been using 1.12s since it was released. It has worked well for me most of the time, but I just experienced the blackout problem after playing a Blu Ray disc and then switching sources. Everything was black and I could not bring up the OSD. I power cycled the D2 and all is well again.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did Nick happen to mention when they plan to put up V1.12s/V1.20 on the web site for existing customers? They'll also need to update the manual on the web site.
> 
> --Bob




Here is his entire email to me (I asked about 1.2 v. 1.12s, when the component pass-through was being fixed and what the timing and pricing on the audio calibration kit was):


"Hi Alan,


"v1.12s and v1.20 are identical except in designation. v1.20 exists only new

production units.


"Software is constantly being developed - once there are no more changes to

be made for the interim, a compile and release will be made - no one knows

when until it happens.


"Tentative price for the mic and software is $300."


Best Regards,

Nick


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 2) On startup, I would sometimes get no audio/video from the D2. Only power cycling the D2 would bring it back (and then not always... sometimes would take several attempts). No other power cycling/input switching, etc. would get things to work. Never a startup problem with 1.11e... regardless of the order the devices are powered up.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Florindi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I second that. I thought I was going crazy tonight when for the first time turning on the system I got no sound or picture. I thought something died. I cycled power and it came up. This is very bad behavior. I am still having sync issues with my PS3 and Oppo, but not my DVR. I spoke with Frank today and they seem to have no answers to this problem. Sometimes I wonder why I even bother with all this new technology?



I've been experiencing the no audio/video problem also. It's intermittent depending on what source is set on the D2 on startup. Very frustrating at times.


I'm somewhat relieved to hear others are having this problem so that it's not just my setup. If you haven't already, please let Anthem support know. Hopefully this will be fixed in 1.12t...


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Florindi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I wanted to know is anyone using a Dish Network VIP622 DVR with their D2/AVM50? I am having a picture shift issue. My picture is shifted by 8-10 pixels to the left. I own a 503cmx plasma that I am in dire need of upgrading when the new Pioneer 150FD 1080P is out. Anyway, the TV is using a aurora multimedia a304 card as the internal scaler. I am running 1080i out of the sat box and 1080i out of the avm50. If I bypass the avm50, then the picture is perfectly in the center. I have tried all horizontal adjustments between the tv and avm50 and I cannot fix this problem. I reported this issue today to Anthem and Nick was not in today so another fellow, (not Frank) took my info. Can anyone shed some light?



I don't know if you have solved your problem but I had a similar problem when I received my D2. My pixel shift changed dependant on the output resolution of the D2 but occured on all input sources and was always shifted to the left. It also occured in the menu system for the D2 and the video adjust menu '7'.

I too had no problem when hooked up directly to my projector from each source.

I had to send back my D2 for repair. It's been a week and a half now.


Nick sent me some software to download, then I hooked up my computer to the D2 and ran the test to get a yes/no answer and the result meant I had to send my unit back for repair.


John


----------



## hifisponge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't know if you have solved your problem but I had a similar problem when I received my D2. My pixel shift changed dependant on the output resolution of the D2 but occured on all input sources and was always shifted to the left. It also occured in the menu system for the D2 and the video adjust menu '7'.
> 
> I too had no problem when hooked up directly to my projector from each source.
> 
> I had to send back my D2 for repair. It's been a week and a half now.
> 
> 
> Nick sent me some software to download, then I hooked up my computer to the D2 and ran the test to get a yes/no answer and the result meant I had to send my unit back for repair.
> 
> 
> John



Did you send your D2 directly to Anthem, or did you have to go through your dealer? Just curious.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't know if you have solved your problem but I had a similar problem when I received my D2. My pixel shift changed dependant on the output resolution of the D2 but occured on all input sources and was always shifted to the left. It also occured in the menu system for the D2 and the video adjust menu '7'.
> 
> I too had no problem when hooked up directly to my projector from each source.
> 
> I had to send back my D2 for repair. It's been a week and a half now.
> 
> 
> Nick sent me some software to download, then I hooked up my computer to the D2 and ran the test to get a yes/no answer and the result meant I had to send my unit back for repair.
> 
> 
> John



How do you see things like pixel shifts?


----------



## Hed

Forgive me if this has been brought up in this thread before but I need some guidance.

I'm trying to figure out if I have a broken unit on my hands or if I'm just missing something.


I have a D2 hooked up to a Infocus 333 (777) projector via hdmi. I have a Xbox360, PS3, HD Cable Box (TW) and a PC all hooked up through the hdmi ports on the D2. I have two issues. First, when I switch from the PC to another source, and then back again, I lose the PC's picture(like the D2 can't switch back to that video). I can't get the picture back without restarting the PC (works every time) or turning the D2 on/off (works only sometimes). I have run the PC straight to the projector and it works fine, so it's obviously an issue with the hdmi switching.

The next problem I am having is with the cable box. When I use hdmi now (wasn't a problem before) the screen drops to blue and then resyncs and is fine. It happens all the time, sometimes within a min, sometimes not for 10 mins. This just started happening yesterday, doesn't do this with component cables.


**Couple of things to note....before today, the PC was running to the projector directly dvi/vga, when I tried running the PC via HDMI through the D2 it would not see* it.

I had never updated the firmware (1.00) and updated it today to 1.11. Now the PC works through the D2 via PC. The Cable box was hdmi the entire time but is now exhibiting the hdmi resync(?) issues..


I'm trying to avoid having to send it back because of downtime, but if that's what I need to do, then so be it...can anyone offer me some insights as to what maybe going on?


----------



## wookie

I'm no expert but if the version 1.11 was downloaded from the web site it has a lot of problems with the 1080i bug and HDMI synchronization problems. Check with anthem about them emailing you one of the beta software upgrades. Likely this can be corrected with software so you might not need to send in your D2. The beta software has letters after the 1.11 such as 1.11e, 1.11g (most stable for component connections) they are up to at least 1.11s or 1.20 I coulden't use 1.11s without synchronization problems and had to revert back to 1.11g. Anthem has had a lot of problems trying to get the HDMI handshaking to work as a lot of manufacturers aren't adhering exactly to the HDMI standards. What type of video signal are you outputting to your tv eg 720p, 1080i, 1080p etc? Search for information about the 1080i bug in this thread.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did you send your D2 directly to Anthem, or did you have to go through your dealer? Just curious.



Generally you deal with the dealer who sends it back to Anthem but I sent mine directly to Anthem myself.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you see things like pixel shifts?



For me the whole picture was shifted not just individual pixels. Displaying text was the easiest, like the anthem menu. I could see the menu text in the proper place and I could also see the same text but fainter about 6 inches to the left.


In the color bars pattern I would see distinct vertical lines where there should be no lines.


It looked like a bad convergence on the old crt projection tv's.


John


----------



## KCWolfPck

Does anyone with an AVM-50 also have a Sony BDP-S1 Blu-ray player? If so, have you been having HDMI handshake issues since the 2.0 firmware update to the Sony?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone with an AVM-50 also have a Sony BDP-S1 Blu-ray player? If so, have you been having HDMI handshake issues since the 2.0 firmware update to the Sony?



AVM-50 or D2 - No difference.


Both Pioneer and Sony Blu-Ray players have had handshake

issues since the update.


Sony say - SO WHAT.


Pioneer is working on a FIX.


----------



## Ian_Currie

Are there any D2 owners using an anamorphic lens (on a 2.35:1 screen) that could tell me the scaler settings to shrink a 16:9 source to be centered within the 2.35:1 frame? I haven't had any luck trying to figure this out....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are there any D2 owners using an anamorphic lens (on a 2.35:1 screen) that could tell me the scaler settings to shrink a 16:9 source to be centered within the 2.35:1 frame? I haven't had any luck trying to figure this out....



You'll do this with a Custom Crop setting and Anamorphic Scaling.


Go to Video Source Adjust / Crop Input, make sure that Edges Off is selected, and then select the Custom crop setting.


I'm assuming your 2.35 movie fills the 16:9 frame left to right, which means it is 1920 pixels wide (in the Anthem's video buffer, which is 1920x1080p).


A custom crop which produces a 2.35 aspect ratio for a frame 1920 pixels wide will be 1920/2.35 high, or 817 pixels high (in HDTV pixels, which are square in shape).


So set your Custom Crop as 1920 wide by 817 high. If necessary you can adjust the vertical position either side of center, but normally you will just leave this crop centered.


The Custom Crop extracts that 2.35 image from the center of the 16:9 input frame, discarding the rest of the input frame. But now the Anthem has to scale that to the video output resolution (and shape) you specified in Setup / Video Output. So how does it deal with the fact that the shapes are different?


If you set Video Source Adjust / Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box, the Anthem will pad the cropped image with letter/pillar box bars as necessary to pad out the cropped shape to the specified output shape. But if you set Video Source Adjust/ Scale Out = Anamorphic, the Anthem will STRETCH the cropped shape in the direction necessary to match it to the specified output shape.


So that's what you want to do. Set Scale Out = Anamorphic and the Anthem will stretch your Custom Cropped input frame -- vertically in your case, since that's what's needed to match your specified video output shape. This will distort the 2.35 movie -- making circles look like tall ovals. But your anamorphic lens reverses that distortion so that you see the movie properly on the projection screen. The Anthem also scales the source to the output resolution of course.


Now keep in mind that not all "wider than wide screen" movies are precisely 2.35. Studios use a variety of aspect ratios NEAR 2.35 as well. And a perfect 2.35 Custom Crop will show a little bit of border for those, or, alternatively, a little bit of lost image. You can use just one Custom Crop for all of them or you can play around and use different crops.


You might also want to widen the crop and perhaps shift it's center position vertically to account for subtitles that are in the 16:9 frame below the body of the 2.35 movie image itself.


When playing around with such adjustments, it is perhaps easier to see what's going on with the crop size and centering if you leave Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box while adjusting the crop, and then switch back to Scale Out = Anamorphic for viewing. Just keep in mid that if the math for your final crop is not H/V = 2.35 (or whatever the precise aspect ratio is for the movie you are watching) then you will be distorting the movie a bit.

--Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> AVM-50 or D2 - No difference.
> 
> 
> Both Pioneer and Sony Blu-Ray players have had handshake
> 
> issues since the update.
> 
> 
> Sony say - SO WHAT.
> 
> 
> Pioneer is working on a FIX.



Did Sony actually make an announcement indicated that they didn't care? I find that hard to believe. Do you have a link? I couldn't find anything like that.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did Sony actually make an announcement indicated that they didn't care? I find that hard to believe. Do you have a link? I couldn't find anything like that.



That is what SONY TECH SUPPORT told a customer.


SEARCH this thread - it is in here more than once.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is what SONY TECH SUPPORT told a customer.
> 
> 
> SEARCH this thread - it is in here more than once.



Hank you are correct. If my memory serves me correctly it was Nick from Anthem and I am NOT surprised in the least........Sony culture has been lacking a customer focus for a good many years now. Its not that they don't occasionally make a good product.....we both know that they do!!!! BUT its generally more an accident than effective listening skills to what the audience is telling them.


Peter


----------



## Ian_Currie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You'll do this with a Custom Crop setting and Anamorphic Scaling.
> 
> 
> Go to Video Source Adjust / Crop Input, make sure that Edges Off is selected, and then select the Custom crop setting.
> 
> 
> I'm assuming your 2.35 movie fills the 16:9 frame left to right, which means it is 1920 pixels wide (in the Anthem's video buffer, which is 1920x1080p).
> 
> 
> A custom crop which produces a 2.35 aspect ratio for a frame 1920 pixels wide will be 1920/2.35 high, or 817 pixels high (in HDTV pixels, which are square in shape).
> 
> 
> So set your Custom Crop as 1920 wide by 817 high. If necessary you can adjust the vertical position either side of center, but normally you will just leave this crop centered.
> 
> 
> The Custom Crop extracts that 2.35 image from the center of the 16:9 input frame, discarding the rest of the input frame. But now the Anthem has to scale that to the video output resolution (and shape) you specified in Setup / Video Output. So how does it deal with the fact that the shapes are different?
> 
> 
> If you set Video Source Adjust / Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box, the Anthem will pad the cropped image with letter/pillar box bars as necessary to pad out the cropped shape to the specified output shape. But if you set Video Source Adjust/ Scale Out = Anamorphic, the Anthem will STRETCH the cropped shape in the direction necessary to match it to the specified output shape.
> 
> 
> So that's what you want to do. Set Scale Out = Anamorphic and the Anthem will stretch your Custom Cropped input frame -- vertically in your case, since that's what's needed to match your specified video output shape. This will distort the 2.35 movie -- making circles look like tall ovals. But your anamorphic lens reverses that distortion so that you see the movie properly on the projection screen. The Anthem also scales the source to the output resolution of course.
> 
> 
> Now keep in mind that not all "wider than wide screen" movies are precisely 2.35. Studios use a variety of aspect ratios NEAR 2.35 as well. And a perfect 2.35 Custom Crop will show a little bit of border for those, or, alternatively, a little bit of lost image. You can use just one Custom Crop for all of them or you can play around and use different crops.
> 
> 
> You might also want to widen the crop and perhaps shift it's center position vertically to account for subtitles that are in the 16:9 frame below the body of the 2.35 movie image itself.
> 
> 
> When playing around with such adjustments, it is perhaps easier to see what's going on with the crop size and centering if you leave Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box while adjusting the crop, and then switch back to Scale Out = Anamorphic for viewing. Just keep in mid that if the math for your final crop is not H/V = 2.35 (or whatever the precise aspect ratio is for the movie you are watching) then you will be distorting the movie a bit.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks very much for replying, and while you misunderstood what I was asking, it was still useful as I was using 823 instead of 817... (nice to know the exact value I should use).


However, what I need to do is shrink (horizontally) the image (when the source is a 1.85:1 or 1.78:1 source). My anamorphic lens is stretching a 16:9 image too wide, so normally I have to remove the lens to shrink it. What I'm after is a way to leave the lens in place and electronically scale down the image.


The 4:3 + pillarbox shrinks, but not at the proper aspect ratio. I *thought* 16:9 would do the trick, but it seems to do nothing (I'm actually thinking this is a bug, but I'm not sure).


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is what SONY TECH SUPPORT told a customer.
> 
> 
> SEARCH this thread - it is in here more than once.



Yeah, before I posted, I already did a search for BDP-S1.....unfortunately, this thread is way larger than it should ever be allowed to get and a search really doesn't do any good except narrow the posts from over 8000 to over 200.


Now you've answered my question, so I no longer have a need to search the thread.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks very much for replying, and while you misunderstood what I was asking, it was still useful as I was using 823 instead of 817... (nice to know the exact value I should use).
> 
> 
> However, what I need to do is shrink (horizontally) the image (when the source is a 1.85:1 or 1.78:1 source). My anamorphic lens is stretching a 16:9 image too wide, so normally I have to remove the lens to shrink it. What I'm after is a way to leave the lens in place and electronically scale down the image.
> 
> 
> The 4:3 + pillarbox shrinks, but not at the proper aspect ratio. I *thought* 16:9 would do the trick, but it seems to do nothing (I'm actually thinking this is a bug, but I'm not sure).



The only way I know for you to keep that lens in place when playing 16:9 source content is to discard some of the 16:9 source image off the top and bottom of your 2.35 screen.


You would do that using the same Custom Crop I just gave you (1920x817) with Anamorphic scaling. That Custom Crop extracts the 2.35 subset of your 16:9 source content (full width, but only part of the height). That will trim about 12% of the image off the top and 12% of the image off the bottom. Anamorphic scaling will stretch that out to full height to send to the projector, and your lens will then spread out the width to put things back in the proper aspect ratio.


You will see your 16:9 content filling your 2.35 screen left to right and in proper aspect ratio, but with some of the image lost off the top and off the bottom. You can change the vertical centering of the crop a bit if that helps.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------


The Anthem provides no mechanism that I'm aware of to squeeze the 16:9 image. You can only crop and then either pad or stretch.


You might want to talk to Anthem tech support about this. Perhaps it is a feature they can add.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------


The 16:9 crop is not broken. Since your source is already 16:9, that crop has no work to do. Even your 1.85 source is really 16:9. It has small letter box bars built into the content top and bottom.


The 4:3 crop applied to a 16:9 source extracts the 4:3 subset of that source (full height, partial width) discarding the sides of the image. When combined with Letter/Pillar Box scaling, the sides of the original image are replaced with pillar box bars. But the remaining portion of the middle of the image is not altered -- it is not squeezed. So when your lens spreads that out, the width of what's left of the image may look right but in fact the content has been distorted (circles look like wide ovals).


Any Custom crop you try with less than full horizontal width will work the same way. You will be discarding parts of the sides of the image instead of squeezing the image horizontally. So it doesn't help.


==========================================


EDITED TO ADD: You might find it more pleasing to use a compromise Custom crop setting which loses less of the image top and bottom at the expense of introducing some distortion.


For example, instead of a 1920x817 (+Anamorphic) setup, you might try 1920x900 or thereabouts (splitting the difference between 817 and 1080). You will lose less of the image top and bottom but you will have some horizontal distortion (circles look like wide ovals). However you won't have AS MUCH distortion as if you sent the full 1080 lines of the source (a 16:9 = 1.7777 crop, i.e., no cropping at all).

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now you've answered my question, so I no longer have a need to search the thread.


 Peter answered it - NOT ME


----------



## Ian_Currie

Hmmm. I would think any other scaler would be capable of doing the necessary squeeze. Considering this is no more difficult than the stretch (probably easier), Anthem should add this feature to the D2.


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm. I would think any other scaler would be capable of doing the necessary squeeze. Considering this is no more difficult than the stretch (probably easier), Anthem should add this feature to the D2.




If you find out from Anthem RE this please post. I am interasted in doing the same thing in a few months.


----------



## Ian_Currie

Yeah, I'm going to write them about this. I'll let you know what they say.


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> Peter answered it - NOT ME



No, you answered my question....Peter just confirmed your response.







' (Note the first four words of Peter's post....."HANK YOU ARE CORRECT")


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, you answered my question....Peter just confirmed your response.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ' (Note the first four words of Peter's post....."HANK YOU ARE CORRECT")



I just remembered the BOTTOM LINE - Peter

remembered the details to back up the Bottom Line.


I'm humble







I'll give the credit to Peter.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are there any D2 owners using an anamorphic lens (on a 2.35:1 screen) that could tell me the scaler settings to shrink a 16:9 source to be centered within the 2.35:1 frame? I haven't had any luck trying to figure this out....



Wow. As I was getting ready to ask this question, you beat me to the punch and Bob was all over it with the answer. I love this board.


OK, I'll try it on mine tonight (Just installed the Panamorph U380 on my RS-1 yesterday.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, you answered my question....Peter just confirmed your response.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ' (Note the first four words of Peter's post....."HANK YOU ARE CORRECT")




come on you guys....quit it!!!


KCWolfPck I have the Escient SE D1 paired with the Sony 777ES coming to the D2 via component. I tried 480i and the result was terrible but became usable when I swithched the sony back to 480p.


I am assuming that although you are using a different model (bigger and better) that the principles still hold with respect to the output from the sony. For me the Oppo outputs a far better result through the D2 than the Escient/Sony so I end up using the sony strictly as a librarian. Have you had better luck?


Peter


----------



## sCiEnt

Folks, I picked up a D2 about a month ago and just hooked it up last night. Every time I power it up it comes on switches to a source input (DVD, SAT etc) and switches off exactly after 3 seconds. It the has 1.11e firmware. I even got the 1.12s version but I am unable to install it because it keeps turning off!


I read some people on this forum have the same problem and suggested a few workarounds that I might try (including upgrading the firmware, changing the volume when it starts up) but none of them worked.


If anyone has faced this problem it would really help if you have any useful suggestions to fix the problem. Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sCiEnt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Folks, I picked up a D2 about a month ago and just hooked it up last night. Every time I power it up it comes on switches to a source input (DVD, SAT etc) and switches off exactly after 3 seconds. It the has 1.11e firmware. I even got the 1.12s version but I am unable to install it because it keeps turning off!
> 
> 
> I read some people on this forum have the same problem and suggested a few workarounds that I might try (including upgrading the firmware, changing the volume when it starts up) but none of them worked.
> 
> 
> If anyone has faced this problem it would really help if you have any useful suggestions to fix the problem. Thanks!



You should contact Anthem tech support. They will probably have to swap out the unit for you.


There's really only two things you can try if it it won't power up at all:


First, disconnect everything from the unit (including the computer). Move the unit to a different location, so that it is on a different power circuit. With just power connected, see if it will now power up. If so, there is something about your original hookup that is causing the unit to shutdown (bad power, or some connection shorting things). We can diagnose that by putting things back a little at a time. The problem may still be internal to some connection in the D2, but at least you have something to work with to figure that out.


Second, again with the unit disconnected, there are a pair of procedures that Anthem has for resetting the internally programming in the unit. The easier involves an application that runs on your windows PC. It may be able to function even though the D2 won't power up normally. The tricker involves opening up the D2 and making a specific jumper change prior to power up. Anthem tech support might ask you to try one or both of these, after which you would need to re-install the software. Or they may just decide to swap the unit out without even trying this.


But if the unit still won't power up with everything disconnected, and on a different power circuit, then the odds are something got damaged internally during shipping -- a loose cable or such.

--Bob


----------



## sCiEnt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You should contact Anthem tech support. They will probably have to swap out the unit for you.
> 
> 
> There's really only two things you can try if it it won't power up at all:
> 
> 
> First, disconnect everything from the unit (including the computer). Move the unit to a different location, so that it is on a different power circuit. With just power connected, see if it will now power up. If so, there is something about your original hookup that is causing the unit to shutdown (bad power, or some connection shorting things). We can diagnose that by putting things back a little at a time. The problem may still be internal to some connection in the D2, but at least you have something to work with to figure that out.
> 
> 
> Second, again with the unit disconnected, there are a pair of procedures that Anthem has for resetting the internally programming in the unit. The easier involves an application that runs on your windows PC. It may be able to function even though the D2 won't power up normally. The tricker involves opening up the D2 and making a specific jumper change prior to power up. Anthem tech support might ask you to try one or both of these, after which you would need to re-install the software. Or they may just decide to swap the unit out without even trying this.
> 
> 
> But if the unit still won't power up with everything disconnected, and on a different power circuit, then the odds are something got damaged internally during shipping -- a loose cable or such.
> 
> --Bob



problem is, it lights up first, and then after the time delay switches to the source selected..it's after then it switches off (same time interval every time)..have done your first suggestion..even carried it to a different building but no avail...Will speak to Nick at tech support


But looks like, I gotta send it back and wait till I get a replacement..sigh..


----------



## dseliger

I had the same problem it would power off right after the clicks...but if i turned it right back on it was fine.


I upgraded to the latest beta firmware and it doesnt really do it anymore. I also make sure its the first thing i turn on and dont turn anything else on until its done coming up.


----------



## sCiEnt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had the same problem it would power off right after the clicks...but if i turned it right back on it was fine.
> 
> 
> I upgraded to the latest beta firmware and it doesnt really do it anymore. I also make sure its the first thing i turn on and dont turn anything else on until its done coming up.



The problem is that it does not even stay on long enough for me to perform the firmware update


----------



## Joe C5

Try powering off via the rear panel switch. That would work for me when mine did the power off trick. To update to the better firmware I turned it off in the back, then turned it on and updated (without doing anything else). Worked for me, YMMV...


----------



## Ian_Currie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm. I would think any other scaler would be capable of doing the necessary squeeze. Considering this is no more difficult than the stretch (probably easier), Anthem should add this feature to the D2.



So I spoke to Nick at Anthem and this is NOT something they plan to support.


This means some CIH users would still require an external processor (depending on whether they prefer to move the anamorphic lens out of the way or electronically reduce the width to preserve aspect ratio).


Anthem's reasoning was that moving the lens out of the way produced the better picture. While this would be true in many cases, with my particular setup I could benefit from this option, so I'm disapointed.


Oh well.


----------



## tbui57

Is there any particular brand of HDMI cable that should go with the AVM50 ?


I am particularly looking at the 25ft monoprice, 24 AWG HDMI but not sure if there will be any dropouts. I could go with 26 AWG but I heard it's thick and heavy, and could cause stress on the AVM50 HDMI connector.


I could spend a bit more $ on other brands (bluejean etc.) if it make any PQ/SQ differences. Any advice from Anthem owners are much appreciated. Thanks a zillion.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Thanks for posting.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So I spoke to Nick at Anthem and this is NOT something they plan to support.
> 
> 
> This means some CIH users would still require an external processor (depending on whether they prefer to move the anamorphic lens out of the way or electronically reduce the width to preserve aspect ratio).
> 
> 
> Anthem's reasoning was that moving the lens out of the way produced the better picture. While this would be true in many cases, with my particular setup I could benefit from this option, so I'm disapointed.
> 
> 
> Oh well.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there any particular brand of HDMI cable that should go with the AVM50 ?
> 
> 
> I am particularly looking at the 25ft monoprice, 24 AWG HDMI but not sure if there will be any dropouts. I could go with 26 AWG but I heard it's thick and heavy, and could cause stress on the AVM50 HDMI connector.
> 
> 
> I could spend a bit more $ on other brands (bluejean etc.) if it make any PQ/SQ differences. Any advice from Anthem owners are much appreciated. Thanks a zillion.



In connecting a PS3 to a D2 using 1080p, I compared 4 HDMI cables:

- Monster (don't recall model #)

- Monoprice 24 AWG, 6ft

- Bluejean HDMI Cable, Series-2, 8 foot

- Audioquest HDMI-1, 2m


I definitely liked Monoprice over Monster, and I think I prefer Bluejean over Monoprice. They are close, but I think Bluejean was just a little clearer.


I found the Audioquest cable to be the top performer. The PS3 menu text is more clear, I notice extra detail in game graphics, and video is smoother and brighter. However, there's a big price jump from Bluejeans/Monoprice to Audioquest.


One revealing test is the Stealth Blueray trailer on the PS3. The trailer opens with an ocean scene, and the camera pans across 2 rock formations in the water. Using the Bluejeans cable, the scene stuttered as the formations moved across the screen. I notice a slight stutter using Audioquest, but it is much less. Perhaps this is a cable bandwidth problem?


----------



## Nathan_R

Question: what would an AVM-50 do if you were to feed it a SACD DSD stream over HDMI?


My Oppo 980 arrived today, and to my surprise the Anthem isn't vomiting on the native DSD feed I'm sending it over HDMI. However, regardless of me telling the Oppo to send DSD or convert the feed to PCM, the Anthem is still showing 6-Ch 88.2kHz on its display.


Thoughts?


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question: what would an AVM-50 do if you were to feed it a SACD DSD stream over HDMI?
> 
> 
> My Oppo 980 arrived today, and to my surprise the Anthem isn't vomiting on the native DSD feed I'm sending it over HDMI. However, regardless of me telling the Oppo to send DSD or convert the feed to PCM, the Anthem is still showing 6-Ch 88.2kHz on its display.
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



My "guess" is that the Oppo and Anthem did a handshake and decided on their own that PCM was the way to go. My Oppo 970 says 88.2 KHz too for SACD so I suspect that is what Oppo does when it converts to PCM. Just a guess...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there any particular brand of HDMI cable that should go with the AVM50 ?
> 
> 
> I am particularly looking at the 25ft monoprice, 24 AWG HDMI but not sure if there will be any dropouts. I could go with 26 AWG but I heard it's thick and heavy, and could cause stress on the AVM50 HDMI connector.
> 
> 
> I could spend a bit more $ on other brands (bluejean etc.) if it make any PQ/SQ differences. Any advice from Anthem owners are much appreciated. Thanks a zillion.



I use 3 cables at 6' each from my source devices to the AVM 50 and one 50' from the AVM 50 to my pj with an hdmi-dvi converter. These are from cablemart and everything works fine, even at 50'.


John


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In connecting a PS3 to a D2 using 1080p, I compared 4 HDMI cables:
> 
> - Monster (don't recall model #)
> 
> - Monoprice 24 AWG, 6ft
> 
> - Bluejean HDMI Cable, Series-2, 8 foot
> 
> - Audioquest HDMI-1, 2m
> 
> 
> I definitely liked Monoprice over Monster, and I think I prefer Bluejean over Monoprice. They are close, but I think Bluejean was just a little clearer.
> 
> 
> I found the Audioquest cable to be the top performer. The PS3 menu text is more clear, I notice extra detail in game graphics, and video is smoother and brighter. However, there's a big price jump from Bluejeans/Monoprice to Audioquest.
> 
> 
> One revealing test is the Stealth Blueray trailer on the PS3. The trailer opens with an ocean scene, and the camera pans across 2 rock formations in the water. Using the Bluejeans cable, the scene stuttered as the formations moved across the screen. I notice a slight stutter using Audioquest, but it is much less. Perhaps this is a cable bandwidth problem?



Did you take any pictures of the difference you saw or just based your decision on a visual inspection? Was the test a blind test to make sure you didn't just think you were seeing a better picture because of the price of the cable? I would like to see the difference in the PS3 menu text between the different cables if you could take the pictures and prove what you have seen.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question: what would an AVM-50 do if you were to feed it a SACD DSD stream over HDMI?
> 
> 
> My Oppo 980 arrived today, and to my surprise the Anthem isn't vomiting on the native DSD feed I'm sending it over HDMI. However, regardless of me telling the Oppo to send DSD or convert the feed to PCM, the Anthem is still showing 6-Ch 88.2kHz on its display.
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



SACD DSD over HDMI requires HDMI V1.2a. During the connection handshake, the Oppo will discover that the Anthem is HDMI V1.1 and the connection will revert to PCM (since the Oppo has the ability to do that conversion).

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

I searched the forum, but couldn't find a clear answer on this.


What should my Toshiba XA2 be set at, so I can get the best sound out of it, to the D2?


Thanks


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I searched the forum, but couldn't find a clear answer on this.
> 
> 
> What should my Toshiba XA2 be set at, so I can get the best sound out of it, to the D2?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Greetings,


I have mine set to Auto. This handles all incomng audio whether DD Plus or TrueHD with no problems to my Anthem.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I have mine set to Auto. This handles all incomng audio whether DD Plus or TrueHD with no problems to my Anthem.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



There was a report on here that the Auto setting in the XA2 did not function in quite the same manner as the Auto setting in the earlier Toshiba players and that this was something that could cause confusion or less than optimal playback.


But for the life of me I can't recall what the issue was supposed to have been nor whether the concern was for XA2 owners or for the owners of the older Toshiba players.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

Bob,


I think it was film maker that had me set up last time. I changed to a new firmware 2.0, and that is when my setting got changed.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There was a report on here that the Auto setting in the XA2 did not function in quite the same manner as the Auto setting in the earlier Toshiba players and that this was something that could cause confusion or less than optimal playback.
> 
> 
> But for the life of me I can't recall what the issue was supposed to have been nor whether the concern was for XA2 owners or for the owners of the older Toshiba players.
> 
> --Bob




Greetings,


Bob, there is no issue here. Unless you can be more specific as to what you are referring to then my recommendation stands. The Auto setting properly handles all incoming audio signals.


While I appreciate your input here I wish you wouldn't post like this unless you can offer useful info. I have the XA2 and have had the A1 in my system both work (or worked) without issue in this regard.



Regards,


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There was a report on here that the Auto setting in the XA2 did not function in quite the same manner as the Auto setting in the earlier Toshiba players and that this was something that could cause confusion or less than optimal playback.



Maybe you are confusing the issue with the Pioneer

Blu-Ray players. The FW update got the auto function

backwards for the proper decoding of TrueHD in the

player.


I KNOW







Too darn many products to keep track of.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Hokey doke! Found it!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9805175 


--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I purchased my XA2 in May. I know that Anthem addressed several compatibility issues between the XA2 and the Toshiba. I would say that perhaps Lev's problem was one of those addressed.


I have not read of any others having any problems. Not to mention Lev. is not really clear as to exactly what the problem was.



As previously stated the Auto setting works just fine on my setup. The OP can of course try all of them to see what works best.


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's also quite possible that Toshiba made changes since LEVESQUE's report back in February. The Auto function in the XA2 certainly OUGHT to be the correct one to use -- logically speaking.


I think the only reason his post stuck in my mind was that I had to refer back several times to the unrelated post I made just following his.


Perhaps if LEVESQUE reads this he can post a follow up.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hokey doke! Found it!
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9805175
> 
> 
> --Bob



That is the same way the Pioneers work now with TrueHD

decoding inside the player.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Bob, there is no issue here. Unless you can be more specific as to what you are referring to then my recommendation stands. The Auto setting properly handles all incoming audio signals.
> 
> 
> While I appreciate your input here I wish you wouldn't post like this unless you can offer useful info. I have the XA2 and have had the A1 in my system both work (or worked) without issue in this regard.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,




My respect for the principals in this thread continues to grow by leaps and bounds when I see them refusing to push back when taunted like this.


The 'tone' was totaly inappropriate........bad post......bad form!


Peter


----------



## TReg

What should the D2 display (audio menu) read if it is receiving uncompressed PCM from a HD source? I am trying to verify if it's uncompressed PCM that I am hearing.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> My respect for the principals in this thread continues to grow by leaps and bounds when I see them refusing to push back when taunted like this.




Greetings,



Peter, I have been posting in this thread for over a year now. No one has more respect for Anthem gear or for the hard work that Bob has put into this thread than I do.


My post was not taunting in any way but was merely direct. I am sure that Bob knows that. My point was clear and was followed up with a post from Bob pointing to his source for the point he was trying to make.


This not only helps him and myself but the original poster as well.


If Bob had a question regarding my meaning he could simply have let me know. Let's not make anything more of it then was intended.


Regards,


----------



## DSNORD

Just wanted to drop an update to my situation as previously outlined a few months ago-


I originally purchased and had installed by my dealer a D2/Pearl/Comcast DVR in my theater and an AVM50/SharpLC42D92U/Comcast DVR in my family room. The combos never could handle 1080i, and I would loose handshake after a few seconds to minutes. I would get intermittent color changes, freezes, and lock ups, and sound would drop out with input changes. The AVM50 had 1-2 dead HDMI inputs on initial installation, so Anthem replaced it, but it didn't work either.


After about 40 true hours of my limited time doing everything suggested by Anthem and on these boards including mutiple beta software loads, cable changes, and moving equipment from room to room along side of about 5-10 hours of my dealer's time invested too to no avail to solve the issues, Bill Nicholson (Regional Sales Manager)and Jack Shafton (National Director of Sales and Marketing/Chief Engineer) flew in to personally deliver and install/calibrate 2 brand new D2s into my system. I had requested the upgrade of the AVM50 to a D2 as compensation from what I had been through trying to debug this set up, especially since they said I had gone above and beyond the call of duty to help them figure out these issues. My wife was homicidal and let them know in no uncertain terms that this fix better work!


The new 9351 video boards are now red so looking in from the top one can tell what board is in place. It was never clear what the old boards were since no one ever opened the units to check. 1.11e is loaded in now. 1.11e/g never worked before although g was somewhat better than e.


95 % of my issues have been solved it seems. I still will get occasional sound dropouts switching from a Comcast HD (1080i) channel to an SD one or vice versa. Switching to a different input on the D2 then back again restores sound on the new channel. I have had no issues with SD DVD yet. Although I have a PS3 and XBox HD player in the family room, I will not start buying HD/BR discs or get players for the theater system until the format war is settled and Anthem and the industry have solved all of these handshake issues. I have seen the King Kong disc in HD since it came with the player, and it looks great on the Sharp, but the D2/Oppo970/Pearl combo is so good right now that I'm willing to accept the PQ loss in order to save the cost differential and have discs that work in all 3 of my DVD setups around the house. I'm not ready yet to revisit all of these issues with any new hardware additions at this time.


It has been an ENORMOUS pain in the ass to get this system up and running. However, I have been extremely favorably impressed with Anthem's willingness to see the problem through to eventual correction. I don't know of another company that would have gone this distance to back their product and make me happy. Comcast surely hasn't done dick to help out the situation.


I'm looking forward to Version 1.2 of the software but will be somewhat reluctant to disturb the present karma by trying it until it's been shown to solve the issues we all are seeing still.


Of note, both Bill and Jack were very adamant that having Repeater set to "YES" is usually the proper setting and is not the bad guy as has been repeatedly stated here. Mine are set to YES with no apparent adverse effect. They recommended using an "AUTO" menu selection as infrequently as possible if there was a fixed selection that better described the individual's particular system. They set my TV input to HDTV rather than the AUTO which I had previously been using. This resulted in the D2 blowing up SD to fit my screen while chopping off the scrolling input at the bottom, so I lost the banners on news/sports programming. I switched it back to AUTO to get the banners back since the Sharp does a good stretch job, and there was no loss of system integrity, so I guess you still have to diddle with things even if the big ma-hawfs say this is the right way to do it.


Jack is still running Version 1, the original shipped. He never had any problems with his system, so he never had a reason to change anything. Handshake failure because of poor implementation of the HDMI standard by the rest of the industry is obviously the major issue we all face. Maybe someday the first post on the new D3 users thread will read "Works perfectly. There's nothing more to talk about. End of thread..."


Good luck to all of you who are going through all of this- I FEEL YOUR PAIN!! However, when you get to the end of the tunnel and your system finally works, PQ and sound are awesome. Mine is far and away better than I ever had with my Lexicon DC1/Toshiba 65" TV set up. Thanks to all of you who have helped me out. I can't wait for the room EQ device- hopefully, there will be no major issues with it!


Scott


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSNORD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I still will get occasional sound dropouts switching from a Comcast HD (1080i) channel to an SD one or vice versa. Scott



Even that would go away if you followed some other

advice from this board.


DO NOT USE HDMI from a DVR to the D2.


Use Component.


It has nothing to do with any D2 fault - but using

HDMI with a DVR while channel surfing TV stations

only makes the DVR go through the whole HDMI

handshake all over again. FOR EACH CHANNEL.


And the Comcast DVRs are very notorious for

poor HDMI implementations in the first place.


The Highest resolution of any TV is at BEST 1080i

which works perfectly into the D2 on Component

and the D2 will scale it to 1080p.


The last advice is make sure the Comcast DVRs are

set to output 1080i all the time and NOT switch

resolution from 1080i, 720p to 480i.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> The last advice is make sure the Comcast DVRs are set to output 1080i all the time and output 1080i, 720p, and 480i.



Greetings,


Wouldn't doing that solve the issue of the constant handshaking when switching channels? On my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR the only time it has to reaquire the handshake is when I switch to a channel that has a different resolution.


If I set the box to output 1080i or 720 only it would not have a problem.


Regards,


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Wouldn't doing that solve the issue of the constant handshaking when switching channels? On my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR the only time it has to reaquire the handshake is when I switch to a channel that has a different resolution.
> 
> 
> If I set the box to output 1080i or 720 only it would not have a problem.
> 
> 
> Regards,



I always had my 5 SONY DVRs set to always output 1080i.


The Handshake still occurs channel surfing. Each DVR may

do it differently but mine are connected via COMPONENT

--- NOW --- and it is a BEAUTIFUL THING


----------



## slots1

My D2 will be set up this weekend. I will be back from vacation a week after that. Very nervous, about how it will work. I did turn it on to see if it stayed on and checked the status to find it has 1.1 installed. Time will tell.

Gerry


----------



## ILJG

Any word yet on a date when 1080i60 --> 1080p24 will be the real deal?


(the annoying monthly question, I know...







)


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ILJG* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any word yet on a date when 1080i60 --> 1080p24 will be the real deal?
> 
> 
> (the annoying monthly question, I know...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



I think it is good to keep asking the question.


As such, I will second your question!


----------



## DSNORD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The last advice is make sure the Comcast DVRs are
> 
> set to output 1080i all the time and NOT switch
> 
> resolution from 1080i, 720p to 480i.




So are you saying it is better to let the Comcast box do the scaling of 480i and scaling/interlacing of 720p to 1080i then dumping that to the D2 to go to 1080p rather than letting the D2 do the entire chain to begin with? Am I missing something here? I'd think it would be best to have the Comcast box touch the signal as little as possible.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSNORD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So are you saying it is better to let the Comcast box do the scaling of 480i and scaling/interlacing of 720p to 1080i then dumping that to the D2 to go to 1080p rather than letting the D2 do the entire chain to begin with? Am I missing something here? I'd think it would be best to have the Comcast box touch the signal as little as possible.



For best picture, set the Comcast box to touch the signal as little as possible -- passing on the resolution of the incoming channel without change.


For least nuisance factor, on the other hand, either use Component video output from the Comcast or set the Comcast to put out just one HDMI resolution -- usually 1080i -- regardless of the channel you are watching.


Every time the Comcast has to change output resolutions over HDMI it has to do a new HDMI handshake and this is another point were it can cause a screwup.


I have my Comcast HD-DVR box set to send out HDMI 480i and HDMI 1080i (since it doesn't have an option for true, "native" pass along of channel resolution). Every now and again I need to correct for a screwup when I switch between SDTV and HDTV channels. Almost always, this involves nothing more dramatic than switching the Anthem to a different input and then back to the Comcast to force a new handshake.


To me, the improved image quality of sending SDTV to the D2 at HDMI 480i is well worth that relatively minor hassle.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Even that would go away if you followed some other
> 
> advice from this board.
> 
> 
> DO NOT USE HDMI from a DVR to the D2.
> 
> 
> Use Component.
> 
> 
> It has nothing to do with any D2 fault - but using
> 
> HDMI with a DVR while channel surfing TV stations
> 
> only makes the DVR go through the whole HDMI
> 
> handshake all over again. FOR EACH CHANNEL.
> 
> 
> And the Comcast DVRs are very notorious for
> 
> poor HDMI implementations in the first place.



Completely agree.


DVR rental just went up here significantly, so I think two are going back as I effectively stopped using firewire, and a TivoHD replaces one of them.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSNORD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So are you saying it is better to let the Comcast box do the scaling of 480i and scaling/interlacing of 720p to 1080i then dumping that to the D2 to go to 1080p rather than letting the D2 do the entire chain to begin with? Am I missing something here? I'd think it would be best to have the Comcast box touch the signal as little as possible.



As an EE with a Ph.D. , who has been designing

this stuff for 40+ years, we have an old saying.

_*Garbage in equals Garbage out.
*_

Or said in another way - when the source is 480i

[aka Garbage by today's hi-def standards] Whatever

box does the scaling is starting with Garbage to start

with. Especially in the TV Video Domain - I contend

the signal quality in the DVR is closer to GOOD Garbage

versus sending it out to an external scaler to have some

level of transmission degrade the Garbage signal even

more - before the D2 [ which is a better scaler] applies

its better algorithms.


BOTTOM LINE - I have done frame-by-frame comparisons

of what looks better on my 13 ft. 1080p screen.


MY CHOICE is 1080i from the DVR to the D2 and then

1080p to the PJ.


IN THEORY it should not be like that - but empirical

results always win the day in my BOOK.


----------



## DSNORD




Bob Pariseau said:


> For best picture, set the Comcast box to touch the signal as little as possible -- passing on the resolution of the incoming channel without change.
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Your post exactly spells out how my thinking has gone. I've trained my wife and kids what to do when the glitch pops up. A minor solvable issue once I figured out what it was all about, but it took a while to get rid of the panic factor in the other family members.
> 
> 
> Technology can be a wonderful thing, but the annoyance factor that keeps coming more and more with all of these advances I'm sure is going to turn off a whole lot of the boomer generation. I enjoy the tweaking because I really get to know my system inside and out, but I'm convinced that unless the electronics/computer industry figures out a way to make it all work seemlessly and effortlessly for the average joe six-pack, there is going to be a big backlash down the road. Just like mp3 has dummied down young peoples' perception of great audio, I'm worried that the hassle of getting PQ perfection will lose out to "That's good enough" on the video end. No sane person would go through what many of us have done here, I think!


----------



## DSNORD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As an EE with a Ph.D. , who has been designing
> 
> this stuff for 40+ years, we have an old saying.
> 
> _*Garbage in equals Garbage out.
> *_
> 
> Or said in another way - when the source is 480i
> 
> [aka Garbage by today's hi-def standards] Whatever
> 
> box does the scaling is starting with Garbage to start
> 
> with. Especially in the TV Video Domain - I contend
> 
> the signal quality in the DVR is closer to GOOD Garbage
> 
> versus sending it out to an external scaler to have some
> 
> level of transmission degrade the Garbage signal even
> 
> more - before the D2 [ which is a better scaler] applies
> 
> its better algorithms.
> 
> 
> BOTTOM LINE - I have done frame-by-frame comparisons
> 
> of what looks better on my 13 ft. 1080p screen.
> 
> 
> MY CHOICE is 1080i from the DVR to the D2 and then
> 
> 1080p to the PJ.
> 
> 
> IN THEORY it should not be like that - but empirical
> 
> results always win the day in my BOOK.



Hank,


As an Orthopedic Surgeon with over 25 years of chopping holes in people, I would absolutely agree with you that what the book says often differs drastically from reality- and like you, reality always wins out in my practice.


That being said, if the actual transmission of the garbage is what degrades things, then that is going to occur to the same degree whether or not the processing has taken place in the Comcast box. If the Comcast box can only do the processing in a manner inferior to the D2, what then is the real reason you have found the significant difference? It has to be something else then rather than the transmission itself.


Scott


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSNORD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hank,
> 
> 
> As an Orthopedic Surgeon with over 25 years of chopping holes in people, I would absolutely agree with you that what the book says often differs drastically from reality- and like you, reality always wins out in my practice.
> 
> 
> That being said, if the actual transmission of the garbage is what degrades things, then that is going to occur to the same degree whether or not the processing has taken place in the Comcast box. If the Comcast box can only do the processing in a manner inferior to the D2, what then is the real reason you have found the significant difference? It has to be something else then rather than the transmission itself.
> 
> 
> Scott




All I can say is it takes 15 minutes to TRY the alternative

and see what looks BEST to you. Whatever the outcome

of the tests results will dictate what will be best for you.

in your installation.


But if you can't see the difference - then Component

into the D2 will make channel surfing a DREAM instead

of a HDMI architected Nightmare.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is best to calibrate your TV using the test charts generated by the Anthem itself (in the Video Source Adjust menu).



I'm trying to do this right - start with the Anthem's test patterns, then adjust for variations in each input device using a reference DVD. I have a question related to the first step using Anthem-generated patterns:


I'm OK for brightness/black level using the pluge bar in the SMPTE pattern lower right, but I can't find any documentation on the white bars that make up the white square in the lower left of the pattern (for adjusting contrast). What level is each of the 3 bars?


Separately, I have an off topic problem with step 2 (adjusting brightness for different sources using a reference DVD) as I get different optimum brightness settings depending on the black/white balance in the test. Specifically, in a very dark test that focuses on precise setting of brightness with a bunch of bars around level 16 and a black background I get one optimum setting, but in another pattern that has one side of the screen black bars on a black background and the other side white bars on a white background I get a much different optimum brightness setting. Driven mostly by the iris on my Ruby, somewhat by perception. Seems that if I set to get nice deep blacks in a dark scene I'll end up crushing blacks in a more balanced scene. But this issue really is OT for this thread - just expressing my frustration.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm trying to do this right - start with the Anthem's test patterns, then adjust for variations in each input device using a reference DVD. I have a question related to the first step using Anthem-generated patterns:
> 
> 
> I'm OK for brightness/black level using the pluge bar in the SMPTE pattern lower right, but I can't find any documentation on the white bars that make up the white square in the lower left of the pattern (for adjusting contrast). What level is each of the 3 bars?
> 
> 
> Separately, I have an off topic problem with step 2 (adjusting brightness for different sources using a reference DVD) as I get different optimum brightness settings depending on the black/white balance in the test. Specifically, in a very dark test that focuses on precise setting of brightness with a bunch of bars around level 16 and a black background I get one optimum setting, but in another pattern that has one side of the screen black bars on a black background and the other side white bars on a white background I get a much different optimum brightness setting. Driven mostly by the iris on my Ruby, somewhat by perception. Seems that if I set to get nice deep blacks in a dark scene I'll end up crushing blacks in a more balanced scene. But this issue really is OT for this thread - just expressing my frustration.



In the "original" V1.11 software that I'm still using, that white patch in the lower left is not further divided into different white bars. This must be something they added in the newer software. So I don't know precisely the values used. You'd need to check in the newer manual to see if they say, or give Anthem tech support a call.


Typically what you would find there would be two bars a few steps darker than "reference White" and the remaining bar brighter than "reference White", i.e., in the Peak White region. Unlike the black bars, the idea is that ALL the White bars should stay visible. However they won't be equally distinct. The bar closest to reference White (usually the middle one) will be about half as distinct against the white background as the bars to either side. On some displays, turning up Contrast too far causes the display to run up against the limits of the brightest white it can produce, meaning you will lose some or even all of these bars -- i.e., you will be experiencing "white crush" as details in the near Reference White region all produce the same level of brightness and none of the Peak Whites can be distinguished at all. Turning down Contrast can set the display below its limitations and make those bars visible again.


When adjusting with a light sensor, you can target a particular light output level. But when adjusting by eye you typically turn up Contrast until you get a "pleasing" level of white in that patch (looks white instead of gray), but not so high that you can't distinguish those bars even when you look closely. Again, Brightness (black levels) and Contrast (white levels) interact so you need to iterate until you find the best combo of settings.


------------------------------------------------


Your projector, with its variable iris, has "floating black levels". The black levels vary according to the average brightness of the scene. This can be useful for enhancing the dynamic range of blacks but is a nuisance for calibration.


Detailed recommendations for calibrating your specific projector are more likely to be found in the relevant projector thread or in the calibration forum here.


The usual recomendation for a "floating blacks" display is to use the black levels chart that has a half black, half white background (and is, thus, mid range in average brightness). Then adjust Contrast a little darker than you would normally target (just lose the dimmer "above black" bar, as well as any Blacker than Black bar). That's a reasonable compromise setting. In darker scenes, the black levels will float up, so you will see some of the black detail that's lost in the brighter scenes.


Keep in mind that the Anthem's SMPTE chart is fairly bright. So when using it to adjust the black levels in your TV for video output from the Anthem, you might, again, get a more pleasing result if you set things a bit darker than the chart instructions would suggest (lower Brightness). Then go back and revisit your source calibration charts.


Calibration is all compromises since you are dealing with real world devices that each have their own, quirky, real world limitations. So take the time to experiment with changes either side of your starting settings as you view more content. You may find a different compromise works better.


But the bottom line is that white details up to AND BEYOND Reference White should remain visible. You are SUPPOSED to be able to distinguish Peak Whites as brighter than Reference White for example. But the "Blacker than Black" data below Black is NOT supposed to be visible. All of that data below Black should merge into one common "black".


With "floating blacks" in a display, some of that will float into visibility as the average scene brightness changes. But you want to keep that down to a minimum since the quality of the Blacker than Black image data is not as good as that in the range from Black, up. The trick is to do it in a way that doesn't lose too much black detail in average brightness scenes.

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In the "original" V1.11 software that I'm still using, that white patch in the lower left is not further divided into different white bars. This must be something they added in the newer software. So I don't know precisely the values used. You'd need to check in the newer manual to see if they say, or give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> 
> Typically what you would find there would be two bars a few steps darker than "reference White" and the remaining bar brighter than "reference White", i.e., in the Peak White region. Unlike the black bars, the idea is that ALL the White bars should stay visible. However they won't be equally distinct. The bar closest to reference White (usually the middle one) will be about half as distinct against the white background as the bars to either side. On some displays, turning up Contrast too far causes the display to run up against the limits of the brightest white it can produce, meaning you will lose some or even all of these bars -- i.e., you will be experiencing "white crush" as details in the near Reference White region all produce the same level of brightness and none of the Peak Whites can be distinguished at all. Turning down Contrast can set the display below its limitations and make those bars visible again.
> 
> 
> When adjusting with a light sensor, you can target a particular light output level. But when adjusting by eye you typically turn up Contrast until you get a "pleasing" level of white in that patch (looks white instead of gray), but not so high that you can't distinguish those bars even when you look closely. Again, Brightness (black levels) and Contrast (white levels) interact so you need to iterate until you find the best combo of settings.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Your projector, with its variable iris, has "floating black levels". The black levels vary according to the average brightness of the scene. This can be useful for enhancing the dynamic range of blacks but is a nuisance for calibration.
> 
> 
> Detailed recommendations for calibrating your specific projector are more likely to be found in the relevant projector thread or in the calibration forum here.
> 
> 
> The usual recomendation for a "floating blacks" display is to use the black levels chart that has a half black, half white background (and is, thus, mid range in average brightness). Then adjust Contrast a little darker than you would normally target (just lose the dimmer "above black" bar, as well as any Blacker than Black bar). That's a reasonable compromise setting. In darker scenes, the black levels will float up, so you will see some of the black detail that's lost in the brighter scenes.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the Anthem's SMPTE chart is fairly bright. So when using it to adjust the black levels in your TV for video output from the Anthem, you might, again, get a more pleasing result if you set things a bit darker than the chart instructions would suggest (lower Brightness). Then go back and revisit your source calibration charts.
> 
> 
> Calibration is all compromises since you are dealing with real world devices that each have their own, quirky, real world limitations. So take the time to experiment with changes either side of your starting settings as you view more content. You may find a different compromise works better.
> 
> 
> But the bottom line is that white details up to AND BEYOND Reference White should remain visible. You are SUPPOSED to be able to distinguish Peak Whites as brighter than Reference White for example. But the "Blacker than Black" data below Black is NOT supposed to be visible. All of that data below Black should merge into one common "black".
> 
> 
> With "floating blacks" in a display, some of that will float into visibility as the average scene brightness changes. But you want to keep that down to a minimum since the quality of the Blacker than Black image data is not as good as that in the range from Black, up. The trick is to do it in a way that doesn't lose too much black detail in average brightness scenes.
> 
> --Bob



Bob- Thanks for your usual *very* thorough response. I'll ask Anthem about the white bars. I agree with the need to differentiate peak white, but if those white bars go all the way to 100%/255 I'd differentiate them less than if the 3 bars turn out to be 235/reference white +/- 5. I'll report back on Anthem's response.


Where can one find the newer/1.2 manual? The 1.1x manual on the Anthem website doesn't say anything about the white bars.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob- Thanks for your usual *very* thorough response. I'll ask Anthem about the white bars. I agree with the need to differentiate peak white, but if those white bars go all the way to 100%/255 I'd differentiate them less than if the 3 bars turn out to be 235/reference white +/- 5. I'll report back on Anthem's response.
> 
> 
> Where can one find the newer/1.2 manual? The 1.1x manual on the Anthem website doesn't say anything about the white bars.



Anthem includes a 1.2 manual with new shipping units. But as you say, it is not on the web site for download yet, for whatever reason. Perhaps Anthem tech support can email you one.


Typically the bars would be spaced pretty closely either side of Reference White.


The Avia "Pro" test DVDs include one test chart that ramps the gray scale from 0 to 255 and back in fine steps. That one's cool because you can see just how well you are doing in the Peak White range by how narrow the brightest part is in the middle of that ramp. The closer you get to a fine bright line in the middle the more of Peak White that is being distinguished. The broader that area is the more white details you are losing.

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Avia "Pro" test DVDs include one test chart that ramps the gray scale from 0 to 255 and back in fine steps. That one's cool because you can see just how well you are doing in the Peak White range by how narrow the brightest part is in the middle of that ramp. The closer you get to a fine bright line in the middle the more of Peak White that is being distinguished. The broader that area is the more white details you are losing.
> 
> --Bob



Yup. That's what I'd like built into the Anthem patterns so brightness and contrast can be set properly on the projector using that, then use the Anthem controls to tweak for individual input variations using Avia Pro, GetGrey, etc.


----------



## 3no

Nick sent me the 1.2x draft manual, along with the following clarification on the patterns. Note the reference to room correction by Cedia. I can't wait







(but does shown-at-Cedia mean shipping-by-Cedia?







)

_Manual is attached. It includes info on the contrast test pattern. Right now I can't remember if the rightmost bar is at 254 or 255 but I'm pretty sure it's either one. As for the other two, I made them 3% and 5% dimmer for the manual since that was closest to the real numbers... but now I can't remember what the real numbers were.


The ramp pattern has been on our ever growing to-do list... no idea when it'll be added though except that right now all design efforts are in getting room correction ready in time for Cedia._


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^Woo Hoo!!


--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick sent me the 1.2x draft manual, along with the following clarification on the patterns. Note the reference to room correction by Cedia. I can't wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (but does shown-at-Cedia mean shipping-by-Cedia?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> _Manual is attached. It includes info on the contrast test pattern. Right now I can't remember if the rightmost bar is at 254 or 255 but I'm pretty sure it's either one. As for the other two, I made them 3% and 5% dimmer for the manual since that was closest to the real numbers... but now I can't remember what the real numbers were.
> 
> 
> The ramp pattern has been on our ever growing to-do list... no idea when it'll be added though except that right now all design efforts are in getting room correction ready in time for Cedia._



I don't see anything ATTACHED


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't see anything ATTACHED



That's a quote from Nick's email to me where he attached the manual to his email. If you're asking in your own subtle way







for me to attach it here, AVS won't allow it as it's 3MB vs. the forum attachment limit of 500K.


PM me with your email address and I'll send it to you.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's a quote from Nick's email to me where he attached the manual to his email. If you're asking in your own subtle way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for me to attach it here, AVS won't allow it as it's 3MB vs. the forum attachment limit of 500K.
> 
> 
> PM me with your email address and I'll send it to you.



I didn't know that was Nick's E-mail to you.


Oooops


----------



## metallicafreak

After 5 years of audio bliss with my (very loved) AVM20...I pulled the trigger and ordered a D2 today!


2-3 weeks delivery to my dealer and I cannot wait!


Welcome the newest member to the (empty pockets) club!


FREAK!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A new batch of mascots is in the incubator now....

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A new batch of mascots is in the incubator now....
> 
> --Bob



They better hurry up and hatch. I ordered mine 7/14. Looking for it any day now.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anthem includes a 1.2 manual with new shipping units. But as you say, it is not on the web site for download yet, for whatever reason. Perhaps Anthem tech support can email you one.
> 
> 
> Typically the bars would be spaced pretty closely either side of Reference White.
> 
> 
> The Avia "Pro" test DVDs include one test chart that ramps the gray scale from 0 to 255 and back in fine steps. That one's cool because you can see just how well you are doing in the Peak White range by how narrow the brightest part is in the middle of that ramp. The closer you get to a fine bright line in the middle the more of Peak White that is being distinguished. The broader that area is the more white details you are losing.
> 
> --Bob



Given some of the differences in 1.2 and what Bob was referencing followed Bob's advice while cross referencing the relevant Anthem 1.2 version instructions.


Worked like a charm. The white box works just like the black box only in reverse (roughly). Adjust until only one of the three bars are visible (hope I got that right hahaa).


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Given some of the differences in 1.2 and what Bob was referencing followed Bob's advice while cross referencing the relevant Anthem 1.2 version instructions.
> 
> 
> Worked like a charm. The white box works just like the black box only in reverse (roughly). Adjust until only one of the three bars are visible (hope I got that right hahaa).
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



I'm going to try same tonite. Calibrate the PJ against the Anthem pattern, then the HD-A20 and PS3 using GetGrey DVD and adjusting the Anthem brightness/contrast for each input.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Given some of the differences in 1.2 and what Bob was referencing followed Bob's advice while cross referencing the relevant Anthem 1.2 version instructions.
> 
> 
> Worked like a charm. The white box works just like the black box only in reverse (roughly). Adjust until only one of the three bars are visible (hope I got that right hahaa).
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Based on Nick's reply, I'd suggest you lower Contrast until you can see all 3 white bars.


Two of those bars will be slightly darker than the background white and one will be slightly brighter than the background white (presuming your display isn't clipping whites on that display input).


Now raise Contrast. If you get to a point where any of the white bars vanish then back off Contrast. You have reached the contrast limitation in your display. This limit will vary a bit as you adjust black levels (Brightnesss control) so it isn't a hard limit.


See if the overall white level is now at a "pleasing" level -- bright enough and looks white instead of gray (NOTE: You should be doing all this in a dimly lit, but not blacked out, viewing room). If so you have a good candidate white level and should now switch to adjusting black level. As you adjust black, refer back to white and make sure you haven't lost any of those white bars. If you have, try backing off Contrast a bit more and then go back to adjusting blacks.


If you can't get a pleasing white without losing some white bars, then your display has some sort of contrast limiter getting in the way. You may be able to turn that off. Look for "features" with names like Automatic Gain Control (AGC) and such. Or you may need to switch to a different "picture mode" on your display.


When you get everything right, you should STILL be able to see all 3 white bars -- this is different from the way you use the black bars (where you really do want some black bars to merge into the black background and become indistinguishable). The middle brightness white bar will be very close to the shade of the background white, so it won't be very distinct. Probably about half as distinct as the white bar just darker than it. If you can achieve that, while also having a good blacks level setting, then you are good to go.

--Bob


----------



## Melgon

Forgive me if this has been asked before:

Ever since I upgraded my Toshiba HD-XA2 to FW 2.1, the player has a hard time handshaking with my AVM50 (v1.12r) -> No image. I have to power-cycle the HD-DVD player to get my image back. I don't recall having a problem with FW 2.0. No problems at all with my Panasonic DMP-BD10A BR player.

Anyone else?


Also, I have been in touch with Nick about this for a short while (and I have mentioned this problem on this thread before): Whenever I power up my HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player or I switch from a non-HDMI source to a HDMI source, or I switch between HDMI sources, I hear "sharp" audio spikes for one or two seconds randomly from front or surround speakers during the HDMI handshake process (while the image "stabilizes"). My BR and HD-DVD player are configure for 6-channel PCM output.

My muting level for these sources is set to MAX. My master volume is set to 0 (Reference). This problem is really annoying.


Any thoughts? Thank you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Melgon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Forgive me if this has been asked before:
> 
> Ever since I upgraded my Toshiba HD-XA2 to FW 2.1, the player has a hard time handshaking with my AVM50 (v1.12r) -> No image. I have to power-cycle the HD-DVD player to get my image back. I don't recall having a problem with FW 2.0. No problems at all with my Panasonic DMP-BD10A BR player.
> 
> Anyone else?
> 
> 
> Also, I have been in touch with Nick about this for a short while (and I have mentioned this problem on this thread before): Whenever I power up my HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player or I switch from a non-HDMI source to a HDMI source, or I switch between HDMI sources, I hear "sharp" audio spikes for one or two seconds randomly from front or surround speakers during the HDMI handshake process (while the image "stabilizes"). My BR and HD-DVD player are configure for 6-channel PCM output.
> 
> My muting level for these sources is set to MAX. My master volume is set to 0 (Reference). This problem is really annoying.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts? Thank you.



There were a number of problems reported here with the V1.12r software and it was pretty rapidly replaced with V1.12s (which apparently is the same as the V1.2 now shipping in new units from the factory). I think changing to V1.12s would be your best first step.


However your audio problem sounds more serious. If it still continues after going to the newer software I'd definitely recommend you continue working with Nick to isolate the cause. It could be a hardware issue. It is certainly not "normal".

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm going to try same tonite. Calibrate the PJ against the Anthem pattern, then the HD-A20 and PS3 using GetGrey DVD and adjusting the Anthem brightness/contrast for each input.



Well, I dialed it in the best I could, verified the compromise with actual source material in a variety of scenes (dark/light). My conclusion is that I need a projector that doesn't float black level (but with high ANSI contrast) more than I need better black/white level calibration patterns. The floating effect (switching from very dark patterns to 50/50 patterns) on blacks just overwhelms any precision tuning of brightness.


Maybe the Sony Diamond...


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I dialed it in the best I could, verified the compromise with actual source material in a variety of scenes (dark/light). My conclusion is that I need a projector that doesn't float black level (but with high ANSI contrast) more than I need better black/white level calibration patterns. The floating effect (switching from very dark patterns to 50/50 patterns) on blacks just overwhelms any precision tuning of brightness.
> 
> 
> Maybe the Sony Diamond...



I also have a Sony Ruby, and found that I turned off the Auto Iris altogether. I had it ISF calibrated and am happy in my light-controlled theater room.


When I change the bulb, I will have it calibrated again, this time in Auto Iris as well. From what I understand, calibrating the Ruby in Auto Iris is not for mere mortals.


----------



## tarichar

I am picking up my 3rd subwoofer today and had a question on my bass settings.


I want to use the crossover settings in the subwoofer rather than with the anthem.


Which way should I do it?


1) In the advanced settings menu under speaker configuration, should I put the subwoofer crossover setting to N/A. This is accomplished by turning on the crossover, and adjusting the crossover frequency to above 160 or below 25 so that it reads N/A.


2) Should I turn the bypass sub/LFE xover to YES in the advanced settings menu.


or do these adjustments do the same thing?


thanks,


troy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tarichar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am picking up my 3rd subwoofer today and had a question on my bass settings.
> 
> 
> I want to use the crossover settings in the subwoofer rather than with the anthem.
> 
> 
> Which way should I do it?
> 
> 
> 1) In the advanced settings menu under speaker configuration, should I put the subwoofer crossover setting to N/A. This is accomplished by turning on the crossover, and adjusting the crossover frequency to above 160 or below 25 so that it reads N/A.
> 
> 
> 2) Should I turn the bypass sub/LFE xover to YES in the advanced settings menu.
> 
> 
> or do these adjustments do the same thing?
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> 
> troy



They don't do the same thing.


The LFE Bypass setting sends all LFE input to the subwoofer without regard to the Anthem's crossover setting for the sub. You use it to be sure you don't lose the "meat" of the LFE audio when, for whatever reason, you have set the Anthem's sub crossover significantly below 80Hz.


However, any bass you are steering to the subwoofer from speakers designated as "small" will still be attenuated by the Anthem's crossover setting for the sub.


If you want to disable the Anthem crossover for the sub completely, adjust the Anthem's sub crossover setting below 25Hz or above 160Hz as you discovered.


In the "advanced" speaker configuration settings, you can do this independently of whatever crossover setting(s) you find desireable for the low end response of your "small", Main speakers.


NOTE: There is a THX Ultra2 setting option in the Room Resonance Filter setup menu (associated with the Boundary Gain Compensation). Anthem hasn't fully documented what this does but I suspect it turns off a sub-sonic filter that keeps extremely low frequencies from being sent to "normal" subwoofers that won't go that deep. So if your subs are capable of going down to 20Hz or below, you may want to turn this on AS WELL to completely keep the Anthem from modifying the signal going to the subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## Melgon

Thank you, Bob. I upgraded to V1.12s last night. I will keep monitoring the audio "artifacts" over the weekend. I tried some more switching between HDMI sources. I just added the new OPPO DVD player last night (using it mostly for SACD & DVD-Audio ... 6-channel PCM Music... sweet). Switching between Blu-Ray and the OPPO is trouble free, however when I select the HD-XA2, I have to try up to 3 times before I get an image (waiting for about 30 secs each time).

Something's still not quite right with the XA2.


Thanks for reading.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There were a number of problems reported here with the V1.12r software and it was pretty rapidly replaced with V1.12s (which apparently is the same as the V1.2 now shipping in new units from the factory). I think changing to V1.12s would be your best first step.
> 
> 
> However your audio problem sounds more serious. If it still continues after going to the newer software I'd definitely recommend you continue working with Nick to isolate the cause. It could be a hardware issue. It is certainly not "normal".
> 
> --Bob


----------



## tarichar

I appreciate your quick and knowledable reply. BTW any word on an estimated date for the release of the Room Correction software. I saw the mic and upgrade would be around $300.


Troy


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The latest leak is that Room Correction will be shown at Cedia, and probably available around the same time.

--Bob


----------



## Stizzi

After countless hours of reading this thread. And many sleepless nights. I placed my order for a D2 with A5 and A2 amps. I just hope these products live up to all the hype.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stizzi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After countless hours of reading this thread. And many sleepless nights. I placed my order for a D2 with A5 and A2 amps. I just hope these products live up to all the hype.



IT IS NO HYPE.


OTHER products have HYPE - this is an OWNERS Thread


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The latest leak is that Room Correction will be shown at Cedia, and probably available around the same time.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The latest leak is that Room Correction will be shown at Cedia, and probably available around the same time.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob! For those that weren't aware, Cedia 2007 takes place Sept 6-9th.


Kal


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stizzi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After countless hours of reading this thread. And many sleepless nights. I placed my order for a D2 with A5 and A2 amps. I just hope these products live up to all the hype.



*goes off to put more mascots in the incubator*


We need a bigger incubator!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I dialed it in the best I could, verified the compromise with actual source material in a variety of scenes (dark/light). My conclusion is that I need a projector that doesn't float black level (but with high ANSI contrast) more than I need better black/white level calibration patterns. The floating effect (switching from very dark patterns to 50/50 patterns) on blacks just overwhelms any precision tuning of brightness.
> 
> 
> Maybe the Sony Diamond...



While checking out other projectors, consider setting up two sets of settings in your current projector.


Set up one set with the automatic iris disabled (at some fixed setting). That may work better for critical viewing in dim theater lighting.


Set up another with the automtic iris turned on. That may work better when there is more room lighting as during a party -- i.e., more casual viewing.


We have had a number of happy Ruby posters in this thread so there must be a way to make it work well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Melgon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you, Bob. I upgraded to V1.12s last night. I will keep monitoring the audio "artifacts" over the weekend. I tried some more switching between HDMI sources. I just added the new OPPO DVD player last night (using it mostly for SACD & DVD-Audio ... 6-channel PCM Music... sweet). Switching between Blu-Ray and the OPPO is trouble free, however when I select the HD-XA2, I have to try up to 3 times before I get an image (waiting for about 30 secs each time).
> 
> Something's still not quite right with the XA2.
> 
> 
> Thanks for reading.



The XA2 has been a real problem since it came out. Anthem has been fighting this one for quite a while. Here are the usual "first aid" suggestions for HDMI handshake problems:


* Consider upgrading/shortening the cable between the XA2 and the Anthem. Make sure both ends of the cable are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket, with no strain on them in any direction.


* Make sure Setup / Source Setup/ HDMI Repeater = NO and Auto Dig = NO are both set for the XA2 input. This simplifies the handshake the XA2 has to do.


* If you are using Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = Auto with the XA2, try Frame Lock = OFF. This simplifies the handshake the Anthem has to do.


------------------------------------------------


The source device has most of the burden of making the handshake work. Some of these sources get screwed up by starting the process too early and then not redoing things properly when they are really ready.


Try leaving the Anthem on a different input until the XA2 has powered up, loaded the disc, and is showing signs of beginning to play (initial menu). THEN switch the Anthem to the XA2 input. This is helpful with some other players. This has not been reported as being a solution for XA2 problems yet, but you may have a new XA2 problem due to the new XA2 firmware.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

This is off topic, but really want to put on my CD uncompressed on a Music Server, anyone have a good suggestion that works good with the D2?


Michael


----------



## PooperScooper

There's a whole forum on music transports here. There's been discussion there on music servers.


larry


----------



## Mitch57

I'm torn between the AVM 50 and D2. I like the styling of the D2 better and it sounds a bit more refined, laid back, and less bright then the AVM 50. However, I'm having a hard time justifying the $2000.00 price difference.


I thought I would post here as I can't seem to get any help elsewhere in making up my mind. Here's my current system:


Denon 3805 receiver for Pre/Pro

Parasound Halo A51 5 Channel Amplifier

Integra DPC 8.5 DVD changer

Motorola 6416 HD DVR cable box

Panasonic TH50PX50u 50" plasma TV

Definitive Tech BP 7002 Front Speakers

Definitive Tech CLR 2500 Center Speaker

Definitive Tech BP 2X surround Speakers


I have 292 multichannel DVD-A/SACD albums. That's pretty much all I listen to for music. I rarely play red book CDs and if I do I play them back using Dolby PLIIx. I also watch a lot of movies but haven't jumped on the HD DVD/Blu-Ray band wagon yet and don't intend to until the format war is over.


I can only pass my HD audio recordings to the Pre/Pro via the 6 channel analog outputs with the integra as it has no HDMI.


All of that being said can anyone offer me some advice on which one to get? I'm willing to spend the extra $2000.00 if it's justified. I know it can be a subjective and personal taste thing but I was hoping for some advice and opinions on my purchasing decision?


Thanks everyone,


Mitch


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mitch,

Although Anthem isn't saying, the strong impression here is that the upcoming Room EQ upgrade will only be available for the D2. [The D2 has spare processing power that is expected to be used by this.] If that's important to you then you should be leaning towards the D2.


That aside, if you can afford the extra money, I think you will be pleased with the result. It's always a tough call to decide how far to go with higher end stuff, but there are some pretty tough critics on here who are quite happy with their D2's, which leads me to believe Anthem got this one "right".


It really boils down to whether you feel the need to perhaps spend that money on upgrading some other portion of your system instead.

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> While checking out other projectors, consider setting up two sets of settings in your current projector.
> 
> 
> Set up one set with the automatic iris disabled (at some fixed setting). That may work better for critical viewing in dim theater lighting.
> 
> 
> Set up another with the automtic iris turned on. That may work better when there is more room lighting as during a party -- i.e., more casual viewing.
> 
> 
> We have had a number of happy Ruby posters in this thread so there must be a way to make it work well.
> 
> --Bob



Overall, I'm happy with my Ruby. It's in a totally light controlled theater, so never used for "people need light to talk to each other, honey" parties. I keep the iris on auto as the projector really does produce blacker blacks with the iris closed and whiter whites with it open. I just don't want to have to choose a compromise for reference black - I want 16 to always produce the blackest black the projector is capable of producing at that possible instant with whatever material is on the rest of the image, without crushing near-blacks.


I doubt that I'll be really happy with any projector until I can get a laser-based or other technology capable of producing zero-light blacks. CRT?


----------



## KCWolfPck

Has anyone actually figured out how to get video/audio from the Sony BDP-S1 w/ firmware 2.0 consistantly? I gave up and am actually watching a movie on my 360. I know others have had similar HDMI handshake issues. Is there a sequence of actions I can take to get this thing working?


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I doubt that I'll be really happy with any projector until I can get a laser-based or other technology capable of producing zero-light blacks. CRT?



We'll we've got at least one of those "crazy CRT projector guys" following this thread, so you may be able to get some recommendations! (grin!)


I've never been a big fan of "automatic brightness" controls myself. I imagine it can be done right, I've just never seen one that impressed me.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone actually figured out how to get video/audio from the Sony BDP-S1 w/ firmware 2.0 consistantly? I gave up and am actually watching a movie on my 360. I know others have had similar HDMI handshake issues. Is there a sequence of actions I can take to get this thing working?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



The theory is that you have to let the Sony power up COMPLETELY before you select it as input on the Anthem. I don't know if you have to wait for the Sony to load and start playing the disc as well, but it wouldn't surprise me.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mitch,
> 
> Although Anthem isn't saying, the strong impression here is that the upcoming Room EQ upgrade will only be available for the D2. [The D2 has spare processing power that is expected to be used by this.] If that's important to you then you should be leaning towards the D2.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I have been thinking about this and it makes absolutely no sense, and less sense the more I think of it.


1) The setup not during "run time" when DSP power might be required, but it certainly isn't required on a continuous basis.


2) As the DSP power of the AVM-50 is enough to run a space program, and having read many of the highest end room correction methodologies (it may require much more than Audessey's professional correction, but I doubt it).


I'm left with a sneaking suspicion that the real limitation, if any, would be marketing. Truthfully I wouldn't mind if that's the case and Anthem comes out and says that. It';s not consistent with the Anthem culture of upgrades, but I would understand.


Tim


----------



## Mitch57




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mitch,
> 
> Although Anthem isn't saying, the strong impression here is that the upcoming Room EQ upgrade will only be available for the D2. [The D2 has spare processing power that is expected to be used by this.] If that's important to you then you should be leaning towards the D2.
> 
> 
> That aside, if you can afford the extra money, I think you will be pleased with the result. It's always a tough call to decide how far to go with higher end stuff, but there are some pretty tough critics on here who are quite happy with their D2's, which leads me to believe Anthem got this one "right".
> 
> 
> It really boils down to whether you feel the need to perhaps spend that money on upgrading some other portion of your system instead.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I appreciate your advice and am now leaning more and more towards the D2. Since I'm a computer tech for a living I always worry about buying either obsolescence or "Bleeding Edge". In my line of work I would prefer to buy what is considered "Tried and True" over the "Latest and Greatest". But that being said, buying to far behind the "Eight Ball" can put you in the obsolescent camp within just a few short months.


But playing the waiting game can leave you without anything forever if you just keep saying "I'm going to wait until the next new..... comes out." These days, thats every few months.


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The theory is that you have to let the Sony power up COMPLETELY before you select it as input on the Anthem. I don't know if you have to wait for the Sony to load and start playing the disc as well, but it wouldn't surprise me.
> 
> --Bob



I'll try that as well. Thank you for your response.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Oppo 980


If I am feeding the D2 with hdmi from the oppo can the D2 output both component to tv and hdmi to sony pearl?


I am geeting video thru the pearl but not thru the tv.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is off topic, but really want to put on my CD uncompressed on a Music Server, anyone have a good suggestion that works good with the D2?
> 
> 
> Michael



Michael,


It is indeed OT, but...


I let my computer and my big drives on the other side of the house be my storage point for all music files and then use the AppleTV to stream them thru the D2 to whatever Zone I need. I use a combination of Apple Lossless files, aiff and wav files, and some mp3's. Works great, and you get album art on screen for people to be able to "flip" virtually thru your collection when they visit.


Hope this helps,

Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oppo 980
> 
> 
> If I am feeding the D2 with hdmi from the oppo can the D2 output both component to tv and hdmi to sony pearl?
> 
> 
> I am geeting video thru the pearl but not thru the tv.



No, if the input currently going to the Anthem scaler is copy protected HDMI (as from the Oppo), then their can be no PROCESSED video output on the Component jacks. The Main Component output will be muted as will the Zone 2 Component output if it has been set to be a copy of the Main, processed output.


However there may be a way around this for you. If the Oppo 980 will ouput BOTH HDMI and Component when the output resolution is set to 480i, then you can connect up both of them to the Anthem. Then set your Anthem input so that the HDMI input goes to the Scaler AND ALSO specify which jack set has the Component input. Meanwhile set the Zone 2 output to be either the UNprocessed version of the currently selected Main input or an entirely separate UNprocessed input. In the later case you need to specifically select the Anthem input you are using for the Oppo when you want to view it in Zone 2.


When you select that input for Main, the HDMI video will be processed and will go out via the Main HDMI output.


Meanwhile the Component input will be sent UNprocessed (i.e., still 480i) out via the Zone 2 Component output jacks to your TV.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Bob,


If I were to setup 2 sources for the oppo, say one for the pj and one for the tv could I accomplish the same?


The oppo will put out video from hdmi and component at the same time


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> If I were to setup 2 sources for the oppo, say one for the pj and one for the tv could I accomplish the same?
> 
> 
> The oppo will put out video from hdmi and component at the same time



Sure, but I'm not sure why you would need to.


You can set the Zone 2 path so that you select it's input separately from the Main path (in which case Zone 2 output will be an unprocessed "pass through" of the selected Component input). Then you can have your processed HDMI and your unprocessed Component from the Oppo share the same input definition with Main path and Zone 2 path separately deciding whether to use that input at any given time. I.e., one input defines the connections from the Oppo and then Main and Zone 2 can separately choose to use that input or any of the other inputs.


But yes, if you want to you can re-use the input jacks in different input definitions. This is particularly useful if you want to have different Video Source Adjust settings for example for the same source device. I.e., you can setup DVD1 and DVD2 (etc.) as using the same source device, but now the Video Source Adjust stuff is remembered separately for those two inputs.


However, when doing pass through of unprocessed Component video to Zone 2 that Video Source Adjust stuff won't be happening, so this really only applies to the Main path and to Zone 2 when Zone 2 is also outputting the same processed video as is being used on the Main path.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I think I got it thanks now to go play with it all.


----------



## Toyo321




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone actually figured out how to get video/audio from the Sony BDP-S1 w/ firmware 2.0 consistantly? I gave up and am actually watching a movie on my 360. I know others have had similar HDMI handshake issues. Is there a sequence of actions I can take to get this thing working?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I added a cheap pair of component video cable from my Sony to the D2, because I only use them for this work around solution. Before I shut my D2 off I switch DVD1 to Component 1. The next time I start my System I turn on the D2 first. Then I start the BDP-S1 with a disk in the player, once I see the display and the Blu Ray logo on my screen I just go into the D2 menu on the DVD1 source and switch everything back to HDMI. You will see a flicker on the screen then everything switches over. I am all set to watch movie's at this point through HDMI. This also works for the Pioneer Blu-Ray players also. They have the same bug.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toyo321* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This also works for the Pioneer Blu-Ray players also. They have the same bug.



But at least for Pioneer the BUG FIX is done - waiting

for final QC Approval










I will be very surprised if SONY does anything.


----------



## Toyo321




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But at least for Pioneer the BUG FIX is done - waiting
> 
> for final QC Approval
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be very surprised if SONY does anything.



I agree 100%. Sony's response to these issue's are taking far to long, and it is typical of how they deal with the audio video matters compared to any PS3 problems. The PS3 seems to have the higher priority right now at Sony. A shame actually to let a game console dictate advances in Blu-Ray R&D.


----------



## 3no

I bought my PS3 when it first came out as an "interim" G1 BD player (no games), planning on replacing it with a dedicated G2 player. So far everything I'm hearing here and seeing in the firmware updates has convinced me to keep the PS3 for a while. If that's where Sony is putting their development efforts (and all indications are that's the case), then I'll go with the flow.


Just ordered a RSH custom rackmount for it ($90) so now I'm really committed


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But at least for Pioneer the BUG FIX is done - waiting
> 
> for final QC Approval
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be very surprised if SONY does anything.



While not condoning, Sony just needs to sit back and let Pio do the heavy lifting for their part of the fix, and roll it into an OEM update for Sony's 1st and 2nd gen units.


When it comes to the Anthem Room Correction update we'll see how Anthem reacts to the AVM-50.

- Pio like, availble

- Sony like, ignore the community


I know it's apples and oranges but we'll see. I'm betting Anthem will not cripple the solution for AVM-50 owners or will describe how it it's impossible to work on the 50.


----------



## jayray

Was watching Zodiac in SD from my Panasonic RP82 outputting 480i as specified for best picture, ie. letting the anthem do the upconverting. However, I am getting a lot of artifacts like moiring, stairstepping etc that I didn't see with my LG. Even with my PS3 and XA2 these artifacts were visisble. Checked settings and can't figure out what is going on. Any suggestions?


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Was watching Zodiac in SD from my Panasonic RP82 outputting 480i as specified for best picture, ie. letting the anthem do the upconverting. However, I am getting a lot of artifacts like moiring, stairstepping etc that I didn't see with my LG. Even with my PS3 and XA2 these artifacts were visisble. Checked settings and can't figure out what is going on. Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> John



What version of Anthem software are you using, and how do you have each source cabled to the Anthem (HDMI or Component)? You specified 480i input; what is the output resolution you are using from the Anthem?


For software version, press Select once on the Anthem remote and the version number will be part of the first status info displayed.


You can go to Video Source Adjust / Info to confirm the input and output resolutions are what you think you have specified.


There have been a number of bug fixes in the Anthem that might help here, or you could simply have a poor video calibration levels in your setup. Let's start with the bug fixes first (thus these questions).

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Was watching Zodiac in SD from my Panasonic RP82 outputting 480i as specified for best picture, ie. letting the anthem do the upconverting. However, I am getting a lot of artifacts like moiring, stairstepping etc that I didn't see with my LG. Even with my PS3 and XA2 these artifacts were visisble. Checked settings and can't figure out what is going on. Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> John



What is the output resolution of the Anthem and what is the native resolution of the LG?


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> I'm torn between the AVM 50 and D2. I like the styling of the D2 better and it sounds a bit more refined, laid back, and less bright then the AVM 50. However, I'm having a hard time justifying the $2000.00 price difference.
> 
> I thought I would post here as I can't seem to get any help elsewhere in making up my mind.





> Quote:
> Since I'm a computer tech for a living I always worry about buying either obsolescence or "Bleeding Edge". In my line of work I would prefer to buy what is considered "Tried and True" over the "Latest and Greatest". But that being said, buying to far behind the "Eight Ball" can put you in the obsolescent camp within just a few short months.
> 
> 
> But playing the waiting game can leave you without anything forever if you just keep saying "I'm going to wait until the next new..... comes out." These days, thats every few months.



Ok Mitch, I'm gonna take your query full on. Have a seat.

You are not going to find a better sounding, full featured, better supported, future-proof piece of gear than the D2.

You've admitted to liking the "more refined sound" of the D2.

Let me tell you after becoming accustomed to this level of natural reproduction, you will not regret the extra $2k, in fact you will look back and wonder why you even had the question in the first place.

The D2 builds on the solid foundation of the D1.

The only difference is the D2 provides something no other piece of gear comes close to offering, unparalled sound and video reproduction.

Simple as that.

I've asked myself, what do I find lacking in the D2?

I honestly can't think of anything to criticize.

To me, the real test is when I'm listening to music or watching a movie.

I forget about all of the above and just get immersed in the experience.

It's an indulgence that invokes an occasional twinge of guilt but I get over it.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok Mitch, I'm gonna take your query full on. Have a seat.
> 
> You are not going to find a better sounding, full featured, better supported, future-proof piece of gear than the D2.
> 
> You've admitted to liking the "more refined sound" of the D2.
> 
> Let me tell you after becoming accustomed to this level of natural reproduction, you will not regret the extra $2k, in fact you will look back and wonder why you even had the question in the first place.
> 
> The D2 builds on the solid foundation of the D1.
> 
> The only difference is the D2 provides something no other piece of gear comes close to offering, unparalled sound and video reproduction.
> 
> Simple as that.
> 
> I've asked myself, what do I find lacking in the D2?
> 
> I honestly can't think of anything to criticize.
> 
> To me, the real test is when I'm listening to music or watching a movie.
> 
> I forget about all of the above and just get immersed in the experience.
> 
> It's an indulgence that invokes an occasional twinge of guilt but I get over it.



I'd like to add a small nugget of wisdom that helped in my decision in spending the extra $$$ (I was originally considering an AVM40).


The $2000 was hard to swallow, but I thought about the future. I decided I would be much happier 2 years from now with a D2 rather than compromising today for AVM 40/50.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What version of Anthem software are you using, and how do you have each source cabled to the Anthem (HDMI or Component)? You specified 480i input; what is the output resolution you are using from the Anthem?
> 
> 
> For software version, press Select once on the Anthem remote and the version number will be part of the first status info displayed.
> 
> 
> You can go to Video Source Adjust / Info to confirm the input and output resolutions are what you think you have specified.
> 
> 
> There have been a number of bug fixes in the Anthem that might help here, or you could simply have a poor video calibration levels in your setup. Let's start with the bug fixes first (thus these questions).
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Software is V. 1.11e


Cabled sources: XA2 HDMI

PS3 HDMI

Laserdisc S-Video

Panny RP82 dvd Component


Anthem output resolution 1280 x 720p HDMI to pj


The LG dvd did the upconversion so I now use the RP82 to output 480i. Seemed odd that the ps3 and xa2 now looked worse. They looked better before. Don't know what changed?


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Software is V. 1.11e
> 
> 
> Cabled sources: XA2 HDMI
> 
> PS3 HDMI
> 
> Laserdisc S-Video
> 
> Panny RP82 dvd Component
> 
> 
> Anthem output resolution 1280 x 720p HDMI to pj
> 
> 
> The LG dvd did the upconversion so I now use the RP82 to output 480i. Seemed odd that the ps3 and xa2 now looked worse. They looked better before. Don't know what changed?
> 
> 
> John



The problem with the RP82 may be the Component 480i input bug. That was fixed in V1.11g. To test, play the RP82 at Component 480i and then go to Video Source Adjust / Info and look at the input resolution. If it is something like 1440x480i instead of 720x480i then you've been bitten by that bug. Contact Anthem tech support for newer software (they will likely send you V1.12s). As a workaround, if the RP82 will send Component 480p, then switch to that until you get the new software. Then switch back to 480i so that the Anthem can do the de-interlacing.


For your HDMI sources, there's no bug fix I'm aware of (beyond V1.11e) that would explain the poor imaging you are reporting. So we need to explore that something's wrong in your setup.


Revisit the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post linked off the first post of this thread for suggestions.


Also, make sure you haven't accidentally selected Video Source Adjust / Scale Out / Zoom for any of these sources.


After you've consider that, if nothing obvious jumps out at you, let's pick a source and work through your settings. I suggest you start with the PS3 since we have a lot of PS3 people on here. We'll need:


* The video output settings in your PS3 and whether you are testing with a Blu-Ray disc or a standard DVD.


* The Setup / Source Setup video related settings for that input


* The Setup / Video Output settings


* The Video Source Adjust settings when playing that input


* Any settings on your TV that appear at odds to the suggestions in the "video calibration" post and which might be puzzling you.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

What should the Video source adjust be set to? When I turn it on again, if it is wrong, I will change it.



John


I just remembered that I have the RP82 hooked to component and have a component running to my pj as well as hdmi. Last time I ran an sd dvd, i used the component not the hdmi. Will try component again and see if artifacts are still there. Sorry for the brain f_ _ _


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> What should the Video source adjust be set to? When I turn it on again, if it is wrong, I will change it.
> 
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> I just remembered that I have the RP82 hooked to component and have a component running to my pj as well as hdmi. Last time I ran an sd dvd, i used the component not the hdmi. Will try component again and see if artifacts are still there. Sorry for the brain f_ _ _



Video Source Adjust / Scale Out should be either Anamorphic or Letter/Pillar Box depending on your preference.

--Bob


----------



## rmarcoot

I am having difficulty getting zone two audio to work. I have a 2 channel setup in another room and I am running analog outs from the zone two outputs on the D2 into a tube amp that drives the speakers. I have zone two copying the main zone in the D2 and zone two shows CD ->Main->Zone 2. However, I do not get the audio in the zone two setup - no sound at all. Oops, forgot to mention that yes the two channel setup does work with a direct source. I appreciate your help.


TIA,

Randy


----------



## jayray

Bob,


turned out there was a setting in video source adjust for the RP 82 called "component X " and the choices were processed, unprocessed or off and I had it on off. Switched to processed and voila, no artifacts. Now what I don't understand is when I popped it into the ps3 artifacts were also gone. I didn't try the XA2 but I don't use it for SD anyway. I used Star Trek Insurrection to test, ie. the first part with roof tops and hay. Looked fine. Thanks for the help.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am having difficulty getting zone two audio to work. I have a 2 channel setup in another room and I am running analog outs from the zone two outputs on the D2 into a tube amp that drives the speakers. I have zone two copying the main zone in the D2 and zone two shows CD ->Main->Zone 2. However, I do not get the audio in the zone two setup - no sound at all. Oops, forgot to mention that yes the two channel setup does work with a direct source. I appreciate your help.
> 
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Randy



It could be as simple as that you don't have Zone 2 powered on or that you have the Anthem's Zone 2 path volume either muted or set too low to hear.


The Anthem is like three devices in one, each of which can be controlled separately from the Anthem remote just as if they were in separate boxes -- much the same way the Anthem remote can control other devices such as your DVD player or TV.


The buttons at the top of the remote select which device the remote is controlling at the moment. Select the Z2 button in the green section at the top of the remote, then press Power On, and then try adjusting the Anthem output volume for Zone 2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> turned out there was a setting in video source adjust for the RP 82 called "component X " and the choices were processed, unprocessed or off and I had it on off. Switched to processed and voila, no artifacts. Now what I don't understand is when I popped it into the ps3 artifacts were also gone. I didn't try the XA2 but I don't use it for SD anyway. I used Star Trek Insurrection to test, ie. the first part with roof tops and hay. Looked fine. Thanks for the help.
> 
> 
> John



I'm not familiar with that setting. Perhaps it is something new in the software you are using (compared to the "original" V1.11 I'm using). Where precisely did you find it in Video Source Adjust? Did you find any documentation for it?

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

I'm running firmware 1.12s and have been since it was released. Yesterday my main setup menu on screen display quit displaying. All my connections are HDMI and I get a blue screen whenever I try to use the main OSD. The panel on the D2 reads OK and the other OSDs(7, select,etc.) work fine. I've tried unplugging cables and unplugging power and replugging everything but the problem is still there. I've also reloaded default settings which had no effect. The only other thing I can think of is to reload the firmware which I haven't yet done. Has anyone else experienced this problem?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm running firmware 1.12s and have been since it was released. Yesterday my main setup menu on screen display quit displaying. All my connections are HDMI and I get a blue screen whenever I try to use the main OSD. The panel on the D2 reads OK and the other OSDs(7, select,etc.) work fine. I've tried unplugging cables and unplugging power and replugging everything but the problem is still there. I've also reloaded default settings which had no effect. The only other thing I can think of is to reload the firmware which I haven't yet done. Has anyone else experienced this problem?



Sounds to me like the video circuit for generating those graphics has gone out.


We had a previous report here (using one of the V1.11 software versions) of the Setup OSD losing its color (gray scale only) and then going out, which was temporarily fixed by going into Setup / Displays and Timeouts and manual changing/restoring the settings to match the picture in the user's manual.


In that case, it was reported that the Z2 display had somehow become "bypassed" and turning it back on also turned on the Main display. However the problem returned after a while.

--Bob


----------



## Randall Morton

Thanks for the info Bob, guess I'll call Anthem. I hope that is not the case. If the circuit is bad, I will probably just live with the display on front of the D2 unless something else goes out. It would be hard to give up my D2, even for a couple of weeks.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Guys,


I am looking at getting a plasma monitor to hook up to my D2 and I am thinking about the Pioneer PRO-FHD1. It looks like i can pick one up for arond $4,000.


The Sony LCD KDL -46xbr4 or 5 also looks good and less...around $3,000.


It would seem that the PRO-FHD1 has been out for a while and might be replaced soon? Does pioneer have any other 1080P models in that size yet?


PS. This second TV will be hooked up via the component output from the D2. The HDMI output is being used by my projector.


Thanks for any help or suggestions.


-bob


----------



## cecaa850

The new Elite 1080p panels will be out at the end of this month or beginning of next month. They are full fledged TV's, not just monitors like the FHD1.


----------



## cecaa850

I think that the 6070 (non Elite) is a 1080p set and available now.


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It could be as simple as that you don't have Zone 2 powered on or that you have the Anthem's Zone 2 path volume either muted or set too low to hear.
> 
> 
> The Anthem is like three devices in one, each of which can be controlled separately from the Anthem remote just as if they were in separate boxes -- much the same way the Anthem remote can control other devices such as your DVD player or TV.
> 
> 
> The buttons at the top of the remote select which device the remote is controlling at the moment. Select the Z2 button in the green section at the top of the remote, then press Power On, and then try adjusting the Anthem output volume for Zone 2.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for your response Bob. I did check to see that Zone 2 was powered on and that the volume was raised to a reasonable level. I really don't think that is the problem but I will run through it once more tonight just to make sure.


Thanks again,

Randy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for your response Bob. I did check to see that Zone 2 was powered on and that the volume was raised to a reasonable level. I really don't think that is the problem but I will run through it once more tonight just to make sure.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Randy



OK, if it isn't something as simple as that than we'll need to debug this further.


Turn off Copying from Main and see if you can get an analog audio source to come out the Zone 2 outputs. For example, select Z2 and then choose the AM/FM tuner.


If still no sound try the same thing with Zone 3.


If you can't get a 2 channel analog audio source to produce output on Zone 2 then you may have a hardware fault. By the way, I am presuming you are using the Zone 2 RCA output jacks and not the Balanced outputs, right?


If you CAN get analog audio to produce Zone 2 output when not copying from Main, then we can go back and revisit your setup for copying from Main. I'm thinking the Auto Dig setup setting may be getting in the way here. But let's see if you can get the simple, non-copied analog stuff to work first.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not familiar with that setting. Perhaps it is something new in the software you are using (compared to the "original" V1.11 I'm using). Where precisely did you find it in Video Source Adjust? Did you find any documentation for it?
> 
> --Bob



It is on pg. 34 of my manual which is for software ver. 1.1x. Shows a picture of the screen. This is under the Video Output selection. Letter h. is component 2 out. Choices are processed, unprocessed and off. I don't know why they call it component 2. I thought it was specifically referring to my RP82 which is connected to component 2 but it is not a variable choice.

I am using 1.11e


Download the manual from anthem for AVM 50 and you can see the documentation for this. I'm not really clear what it does.


John


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is on pg. 34 of my manual which is for software ver. 1.1x. Shows a picture of the screen. This is under the Video Output selection. Letter h. is component 2 out. Choices are processed, unprocessed and off. I don't know why they call it component 2. I thought it was specifically referring to my RP82 which is connected to component 2 but it is not a variable choice.
> 
> I am using 1.11e
> 
> 
> Download the manual from anthem for AVM 50 and you can see the documentation for this. I'm not really clear what it does.
> 
> 
> John



They call it component 2 because there are 2 component outputs out of the D2. It has nothing to do with the components hooked up into the D2(ie.dvd). It has to do with hooking up to 2 different monitors or display units.


When you are hooked up to a diplay with the component 2 outputs from the D2 you have the option of processing the information using the Gennum chip inside the D2, going unprocessed meaning the signal passes through without being touched and off meaning it does not pass the signal through to your display on that second component output.


John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> They call it component 2 because there are 2 component outputs out of the D2. It has nothing to do with the components hooked up into the D2(ie.dvd). It has to do with hooking up to 2 different monitors or display units.
> 
> 
> When you are hooked up to a diplay with the component 2 outputs from the D2 you have the option of processing the information using the Gennum chip inside the D2, going unprocessed meaning the signal passes through without being touched and off meaning it does not pass the signal through to your display on that second component output.
> 
> 
> John



I have my sd DVD player hooked up to the AVM 50 with component and out from the AVM 50 using hdmi. Changing that setting seemed to turn on the Gennum processing even though it is not outputting from component. Does this make sense?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is on pg. 34 of my manual which is for software ver. 1.1x. Shows a picture of the screen. This is under the Video Output selection. Letter h. is component 2 out. Choices are processed, unprocessed and off. I don't know why they call it component 2. I thought it was specifically referring to my RP82 which is connected to component 2 but it is not a variable choice.
> 
> I am using 1.11e
> 
> 
> Download the manual from anthem for AVM 50 and you can see the documentation for this. I'm not really clear what it does.
> 
> 
> John



What confused me was that you said you'd found it in the Video Source Adjust menu -- the one under the "7" key -- when in fact you actually found it in the Setup menu.


Setup / Video Output / Component 2 Out selects what goes to the Anthem's 2nd Component video output -- the one labled "Main/Zone2". The Anthem's 1st Component video output (the one labled "Main") is the Main path (processed video) output. The 2nd Component output can be a copy of that, or can be the UNprocessed version of the video on the Main path, or can be unprocessed video from a separate input source selected for the Zone 2 path, or can be nothing (off). I'd forgotten OFF was an option there or I might have figured out where you were in the menus.


You said you had Component cabling from the Anthem to your projector (as well as HDMI). Do you by any chance have that plugged into the "Main/Zone2" Component Anthem output instead of the "Main" Component output?


If so, there may have been some signal feedback that was screwing things up when you had that output set to "OFF" -- which is hidden now that you've set it to be the copy of the processed video on the "Main" output.


This should not be possible if things are cabled properly. Double check all your cabling to make sure you have outputs cabled to inputs for everything and don't accidentally have an output cabled to an output or an input to an input.


EDITED TO ADD: A common source of cabling mistakes is if you are using any Y-cables or signal splitters.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,


checked output for component and it out from the main. I have some component cables still coming from some of my sources that are now doing hdmi out. I will remove them. As I have said, the video is now being processed so changing something at this point will make it hard to know what diff it made. Are you saying that I should remove these legacy component cables now that I use hdmi for them?


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> checked output for component and it out from the main. I have some component cables still coming from some of my sources that are now doing hdmi out. I will remove them. As I have said, the video is now being processed so changing something at this point will make it hard to know what diff it made. Are you saying that I should remove these legacy component cables now that I use hdmi for them?
> 
> 
> John



No. As long as the cables are correctly connected (outputs to inputs) there's no problem leaving them in place.


It's just very odd that turning on the 2nd output would affect things the way you describe. So I'm looking for some other explanation.

--Bob


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, if it isn't something as simple as that than we'll need to debug this further.
> 
> 
> Turn off Copying from Main and see if you can get an analog audio source to come out the Zone 2 outputs. For example, select Z2 and then choose the AM/FM tuner.
> 
> 
> If still no sound try the same thing with Zone 3.
> 
> 
> If you can't get a 2 channel analog audio source to produce output on Zone 2 then you may have a hardware fault. By the way, I am presuming you are using the Zone 2 RCA output jacks and not the Balanced outputs, right?
> 
> 
> If you CAN get analog audio to produce Zone 2 output when not copying from Main, then we can go back and revisit your setup for copying from Main. I'm thinking the Auto Dig setup setting may be getting in the way here. But let's see if you can get the simple, non-copied analog stuff to work first.
> 
> --Bob



Well the problem appears to be solved but I'm not sure what was causing it but it doesn't appear to have been a D2 issue. I believe it was an issue with tube amp but I'm not really sure. This evening I was experiencing some inconsistent problems trying several different alternatives. I finally just pulled everything apart and started from the beginning. At least as of now everything seems to be working consistently.


Thanks for your help and suggestions.

Randy


----------



## nine ball

Anyone.................


Do we have any sense as to the expected full production release 1.2 yet? I am still on 1.0 and the wait is getting a little frustrating. Is 1.2(s) stable enough to be recommended or is there reason to hope for an imminent final release?


Anyone??


Peter


----------



## jkmw

Does anyone have any thoughts on which way the surrounds and rears in a 7.x system should be set for the best surround sound effect if they are all Tripoles? The system is all M&K and the surrounds(SS-200), and rears(SS-150), have the capability to be set either as bipoles or tripoles which include the front firing radiator in addition to the side firing radiators. The link to my theater shows a pair of M&K S-150 mounted in the rear position but these have been swapped out for the SS-150.


The S-150s work fine and are in reserve for now. When they were up, they were configured of course as direct and the sound fields were angeled toward the side walls at the suggestion of the M&K folk, who of course are now nowhere to be found.


But to keep it on topic, I am wondering whether others have had experience with the effect (delay) created by the D2 when the the surrounds and rears are set to direct vs bipole and more the the point if their experience is with tripoles.


----------



## hifisponge

Hello all -


Since the D2 has arguably the best video processing available, does anyone have any recommendations for a good 1080P flat panel display that accepts its native rez easily? I have a friend that is considering a Panny or a Pioneer Elite plasma. His thinking is that he could go with the cheaper Panny because the D2 is going to be doing the video processing anyway, so why pay for the better processing in the Pioneer? The goal here is to avoid redundacies in the system and save money in the process.


Thanks,


- Tim


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkmw* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any thoughts on which way the surrounds and rears in a 7.x system should be set for the best surround sound effect if they are all Tripoles? The system is all M&K and the surrounds(SS-200), and rears(SS-150), have the capability to be set either as bipoles or tripoles which include the front firing radiator in addition to the side firing radiators. The link to my theater shows a pair of M&K S-150 mounted in the rear position but these have been swapped out for the SS-150.
> 
> 
> The S-150s work fine and are in reserve for now. When they were up, they were configured of course as direct and the sound fields were angeled toward the side walls at the suggestion of the M&K folk, who of course are now nowhere to be found.
> 
> 
> But to keep it on topic, I am wondering whether others have had experience with the effect (delay) created by the D2 when the the surrounds and rears are set to direct vs bipole and more the the point if their experience is with tripoles.



We have a 'ton' in common with the D2,P5/P2,oppo,HD DVD, Escient, M&K s150 (I have six installed, three front and Mirror three s150 in wall's in the rear) and ss150 sides, currently set up Bi Polar. The configuration is designed to change by source and codec. I have three subs (350) currently in front but I suspect I will add a fourth when I can finally execute a proper calibration with the 'soon to be released' production release ver 1.2 (I think).


Since we both have the D2/Ruby/Stewart Screen we share an additional challenge, I believe, and that is that my "sweet spot" has moved considerably closer to the screen than any traditional floorplans would call for as the quality of viewing experience is so profoundly better than anything available until recently. This means that the original placements for the tri-polar ss150's is waaay too far back and either needs to be moved forward which then has a debilitating effect on the quality of the rear seats or I am now convinced a second pair has to be added for the side surrounds. I do NOT employ the side surrounds for DTS as I am a firm believer in matching all discrete sources on the front and back.


I don't think that I've seen any recognition from an engineering standpoint on the inevitable changes in speaker locations due to the shift in viewing distance for a well calibrated high definition environment but I expect that this is probably the best place to discuss the issue as Anthem, hopefully will offer some flexibility to the higher end domestic theaters that rely on the Statement pre/pro to offer maximum benefit for both video and audio elements in a calibrated environment.


I'm not sure I would want to try and answer your question on whether to configure the SS150's to Tri or Bi-polar before I have wrestled the foregoing issues to the ground.


Did any of that make sense? I apologize if it didn't!


Peter


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Anyone used the DishNetwork HD DVR and DD receivers with the D2? I am thinking about switching from Comcast to Dish as I can save about $100 bucks per month and get the same programming.


Do the dish receivers work well with the D2?

How is the picture quality via Dish?


Thanks


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hifisponge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello all -
> 
> 
> Since the D2 has arguably the best video processing available, does anyone have any recommendations for a good 1080P flat panel display that accepts its native rez easily? I have a friend that is considering a Panny or a Pioneer Elite plasma. His thinking is that he could go with the cheaper Panny because the D2 is going to be doing the video processing anyway, so why pay for the better processing in the Pioneer? The goal here is to avoid redundacies in the system and save money in the process.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> - Tim



The Elite's native res is 1365 x 768 for the 50" Pro-1150HD and 1024 x 768 for the 42" Pro-950HD. They will not accept their native res as input. I have the 940HD and it still needs to scale 720 input to 768. Unless you want to step up the the Pro-FHD1 for $8000 MSRP go with the Panny. I had a calibrator here last night for the 940 and he stated in his opinion the new Panny's are best bang for buck Plasmas at the moment.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone.................
> 
> 
> Do we have any sense as to the expected full production release 1.2 yet? I am still on 1.0 and the wait is getting a little frustrating. Is 1.2(s) stable enough to be recommended or is there reason to hope for an imminent final release?
> 
> 
> Anyone??
> 
> 
> Peter



My guess is coinciding with Cedia. We know Anthem is working to get the room correction ready for then. I imagine they would like to release everything at once.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkmw* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any thoughts on which way the surrounds and rears in a 7.x system should be set for the best surround sound effect if they are all Tripoles? The system is all M&K and the surrounds(SS-200), and rears(SS-150), have the capability to be set either as bipoles or tripoles which include the front firing radiator in addition to the side firing radiators. The link to my theater shows a pair of M&K S-150 mounted in the rear position but these have been swapped out for the SS-150.
> 
> 
> The S-150s work fine and are in reserve for now. When they were up, they were configured of course as direct and the sound fields were angeled toward the side walls at the suggestion of the M&K folk, who of course are now nowhere to be found.
> 
> 
> But to keep it on topic, I am wondering whether others have had experience with the effect (delay) created by the D2 when the the surrounds and rears are set to direct vs bipole and more the the point if their experience is with tripoles.



I have direct rears and switchable direct/dipole surrounds (B&W DS-7). I've been happy with using the surrounds in dipole, but just recently changed to direct on surrounds as well as the rears.


I'm liking it a lot in my room. I've only had a chance to see three movies, but so far I think it's working better - a more seamless soundfield.


I guess it really depends on your room. The tripole configuration doesn't seem to be supported by the D2 directly, although you would want to use the direct configuration.


The per-speaker delay works fine for me.


Sorry I can't be more specific to your speakers. You might want to call Anthem and see what they say. And, without a doubt, try each configuration - recalibrating for each change - and see if there is one you like more.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My guess is coinciding with Cedia. We know Anthem is working to get the room correction ready for then. I imagine they would like to release everything at once.



That would be MY GUESS also


----------



## jkmw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't think that I've seen any recognition from an engineering standpoint on the inevitable changes in speaker locations due to the shift in viewing distance for a well calibrated high definition environment but I expect that this is probably the best place to discuss the issue as Anthem, hopefully will offer some flexibility to the higher end domestic theaters that rely on the Statement pre/pro to offer maximum benefit for both video and audio elements in a calibrated environment.
> 
> 
> Did any of that make sense? I apologize if it didn't!




Peter,


Beautiful! I think Anthem will initially be swamped by orders for a room correction upgrade, when it is offered, by those who have invested the kind of time and consideration on their setup as you certainly must have. It won't take much convincing to sell me the upgrade.


Is it conceivable that Anthem will offer support for a 9.x setup?



> Quote:
> I'm liking it a lot in my room. I've only had a chance to see three movies, but so far I think it's working better - a more seamless soundfield.
> 
> 
> I guess it really depends on your room. The tripole configuration doesn't seem to be supported by the D2 directly, although you would want to use the direct configuration.



Gordon,


I've tried the surrounds in bipole configuration with them set to bipole in the D2 setup, and my current tripole set-up at the speakers with the D2 in bipole _and_ direct config. There's no getting around it, D2 direct provides a more compelling surround effect for me with the M&Ks in their tripole mode. I think this is primarily because the D2 has a delay built in to the direct setting. I know I am leaving a few possible configurations out but what I think I need to do next is try the whole thing with the M&Ks set up in bipole mode with bipole selected in the D2 setup. I may already be biased toward direct for both however and bipole/bipole will really need to be something special to get me to switch.


Thanks for everyones help!


Mark


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkmw* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Peter,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it conceivable that Anthem will offer support for a 9.x setup?
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



Mark,

Actually, not in the foreseeable future as I understand it. Certainly not on the input side. Perhaps on the output side.


It's sort of like the attitude displayed in the Rolls Royce operations manual in the specification for horsepower. All it says is "adequate".

Bentley on the other hand lists the horsepower as "slightly more than adequate".


I believe that the prevailing belief at Anthem is that the overwhelming majority of program material has been engineered with a discrete 5.1 configuration in mind. Anything beyond that is more likely to be 'matrixed' and the Anthem stuff handles that extremely well.


Peter


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkmw* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it conceivable that Anthem will offer support for a 9.x setup?



As Peter said, probably not soon. I get the feeling Anthem likes to be out in front of the curve, but not miles ahead. To support this would require both standard processing algorithms (Dolby/DTS) and more hardware outputs. The algorithms could be possibly offered in a firmware update, but the hardware outputs would involve retooling the chassis. Maybe in the D3?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkmw* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've tried the surrounds in bipole configuration with them set to bipole in the D2 setup, and my current tripole set-up at the speakers with the D2 in bipole _and_ direct config. There's no getting around it, D2 direct provides a more compelling surround effect for me with the M&Ks in their tripole mode. I think this is primarily because the D2 has a delay built in to the direct setting. I know I am leaving a few possible configurations out but what I think I need to do next is try the whole thing with the M&Ks set up in bipole mode with bipole selected in the D2 setup. I may already be biased toward direct for both however and bipole/bipole will really need to be something special to get me to switch.



I understood that the dipole (what you call bipole - meaning two speakers out of phase firing in opposite directions) "on paper" was supposed to give a more diffuse surround experience. In MY room, it gave a too diffuse soundstage - at least the way most movies are mixed. A perfect example of theory and reality diverging.


Now, once I get my room fully acoustically treated, I may find that the direct surrounds are TOO direct. We shall see.


----------



## Ian_Currie

I am using the dipole setting and find it works really well. I also own a Theta Casablanca III (which overall has better sound quality) but the Anthem D2 on the dipole setting gives me (subjectively) better surrounds.


----------



## Ed Weinman

I have a question re: the Anthem D1 being used with the upcoming Denon DVD-3800BDCI Blue-ray player. I've been tempted to upgrade the D1 to D1-plus to take advantage of the D2 specs even though I did not want the visual upgrades.


The Denon 3800 decodes DD-Plus, Dolby True HD, DTS-HD and DTA-HD Master audio and allows the 7.1 channels to be output via analog connections (as well as PCM audio via HDMI outputs).


Can I have the D1, without the D1-plus upgrade, process these audio paths from the Denon via analog connection and have the Denon HDMI video connected directly to my tv (which has DHMI connections)? Would this allow me to hear the different audio tracks to their fullest? Would the D1 process after the Denon decodes?


Thanks, in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a question re: the Anthem D1 being used with the upcoming Denon DVD-3800BDCI Blue-ray player. I've been tempted to upgrade the D1 to D1-plus to take advantage of the D2 specs even though I did not want the visual upgrades.
> 
> 
> The Denon 3800 decodes DD-Plus, Dolby True HD, DTS-HD and DTA-HD Master audio and allows the 7.1 channels to be output via analog connections (as well as PCM audio via HDMI outputs).
> 
> 
> Can I have the D1, without the D1-plus upgrade, process these audio paths from the Denon via analog connection and have the Denon HDMI video connected directly to my tv (which has DHMI connections)? Would this allow me to hear the different audio tracks to their fullest? Would the D1 process after the Denon decodes?
> 
> 
> Thanks, in advance.



Ed, yes you can do that but you need to understand what's happening if you want the D1 to do ANY processing on that audio.


The player will decode the high bandwidth tracks, and then convert the result to analog audio. This is the first critical audio quality point. What you will be hearing will largely depend upon the quality of the player's digital to analog conversion circuits (DACs).


When that audio gets into the D1, before the D1 can do any processing on it, it has to be converted BACK into digital. Then, after the D1 does whatever processing you select, the digital audio gets converted one MORE time to analog. Now if you set the D1 to Analog Direct for the 6-channel analog input, that won't happen, but you also won't be able to process the audio. You'll just have volume control.


With the upgrade to the D1-HD, on the other hand, the digital audio that results from the decoding in the player would be passed unchanged to the D1-HD over HDMI. The D1-HD would then process it and, at the end, convert it to analog for output to the amps. So you have eliminated one Digital to Analog and one Analog to Digital conversion.


Whether you will hear a difference between these two ways of handling the audio is hard to say.

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman

Bob,


Thanks for the response. The Denon announcement indicates that the 3800 has "advanced AL24 processing" (I don't know what that means).


The Denon 2500DTCI DVD player is a transport version that does not process audio but outputs it, via HDMI, so that the (in this case) D1 would do the processing. However, this would require the D1 upgrade to take advantage of the HDMI Denon output (it's a matter of finances at this point).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. The Denon announcement indicates that the 3800 has "advanced AL24 processing" (I don't know what that means).
> 
> 
> The Denon 2500DTCI DVD player is a transport version that does not process audio but outputs it, via HDMI, so that the (in this case) D1 would do the processing. However, this would require the D1 upgrade to take advantage of the HDMI Denon output (it's a matter of finances at this point).



My TWO CENT recommendation is don't BUY the Denon.


There are plenty of Blu-Ray and HD DVD players - that

with the D1-HD will kick the Denon into the scrap pile

and do it for a lot less.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. The Denon announcement indicates that the 3800 has "advanced AL24 processing" (I don't know what that means).
> 
> 
> The Denon 2500DTCI DVD player is a transport version that does not process audio but outputs it, via HDMI, so that the (in this case) D1 would do the processing. However, this would require the D1 upgrade to take advantage of the HDMI Denon output (it's a matter of finances at this point).



Ed the "transport" version won't do what you need. It has NO decoders for the new, high quality, packed audio formats. It is intended for buyers who also buy an HDMI V1.3 receiver with built-in decoders.


And yes, this is deliberately confusing on their part.


EDITED TO ADD: There's a writeup of mine tacked on to the end of the first post in the "Why You Don't Need HDMI V1.3" sticky thread at the top of this forum that may help you get a better handle on digital audio, packed formats, and how this stuff moves between players and audio processors.

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman

Bob,


Again, thanks. And, of course, you are right re: the avoidance of the extra conversion steps. I know that I will have to upgrade the D1. I will be left, at that time, with an iSCAN HD processor, but...


I appreciate your responses.


----------



## Milt99

My 2 cents...

I gotta go with drhankz on this one.

I think sinking 2k into the D1 upgrade will yield far more versatility and longer return than sinking 2k into the Denon.

If you want to get into blu-ray, buy the PS3.

Better yet buy the Tosh A-20.


----------



## Ed Weinman

drhankz, Milt99


Thanks for your input. I appreciate the learning curve.


----------



## Milt99

Ok guys, obligatory post to bump this thread back up.

Please indulge me for a bit.

I bought a D1 in 2004 after hearing a friend's.

The "promise" of the upgrade sealed that deal.

I got pretty impatient about the upgrade after having to listen to all the D2 owners rave about it.

I came close to buying a D2 but waited.

I called Frank in December to see what the hell was up with the upgrade and he cheerily gave me a RA number.

To make a long story not so long, I finally did the upgrade in _July_







, only to have my pj lamp fail upon the D1-HDs arrival.

Got the lamp today and will hopefully restart my theater tonight.

This is an awesome thread and represents the very best of AVS and it's members.

Thanks to everyone.


----------



## Ed Weinman

EDITED TO ADD: There's a writeup of mine tacked on to the end of the first post in the "Why You Don't Need HDMI V1.3" sticky thread at the top of this forum that may help you get a better handle on digital audio, packed formats, and how this stuff moves between players and audio processors.

--Bob[/quote]


Bob,


Your writeup is outstanding and has helped me alot.


Thanks, again.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> From discussions with another poster, some interesting results for folks who do not yet have an HDMI display:
> 
> 
> Suppose you have an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player with both Component and HDMI outputs that has the characteristic that BOTH of these outputs are live at the same time if both are hooked up -- presuming you are playing any of the current HD-DVD or Blu-Ray titles which don't yet prohibit high-def Component video output. The player will also need an optical digital audio output.
> 
> 
> Without an HDMI display you will find that you can't mix HDMI audio input with Component video input in the Anthem (due to HDMI copy protection). So typically you would hook Component video and either multi-channel analog audio or optical digital audio to the Anthem and then Component video to your display. This would work, but you can't get lossless DIGITAL audio that way. You either get the "compatibility" digital audio track over the optical connection or you get whatever quality of analog audio output the player produces according to the quality of its own analog audio output stage.
> 
> 
> There's an alternative, however:
> 
> 
> Run HDMI to the Anthem and set HDMI Repeater=NO on that input so that the HDMI connection will stay live even though you don't have an HDMI TV connected to the Anthem output. The Anthem lies to the player and says it is directly connected to a TV. That gets lossless audio over HDMI into the Anthem. Meanwhile you can run Component video directly to the TV. That gets high def video to the TV since both player outputs are active at the same time.
> 
> 
> That's cool by itself, but since you don't have video running through the Anthem you can't use any of the processing in the Anthem. This may not be a problem for playing HD-DVD or Blu-Ray movies but it would be annoying if you wanted to use the video solution in the Anthem while playing standard DVDs in this player.
> 
> 
> But there's another way to go.
> 
> 
> Hook up BOTH HDMI and Component to the Anthem. You will also need to hook up optical digital audio to the Anthem. Finally you will need to run TWO sets of Component video to your display -- one from the Anthem Main path output and one from the Anthem Zone 2 output.
> 
> 
> To play HD-DVD or Blu-Ray movies, set the player to high def output (on both the Component and HDMI outputs) and set it to send lossless PCM digital audio over the HDMI output. Set up an input device on the Anthem (DVD for example) so that this particular HDMI input goes to the scaler. This is a necessary step to access the HDMI audio on that input. Once again, set HDMI Repeater=NO so that there's no problem due to not having a TV on the Anthem's HDMI output. Set audio to use the digital audio coming in on the HDMI. Meanwhile ALSO enter the Component input socket set you used to connect the player to the Anthem in the Component input line. Finally set Zone 2 output to be the UNprocessed version of the Main path. You do this in the Setup/Video Output menu. Zone 2 has to be UNprocessed for this to work. Note that this also means you can not get the Anthem On Screen Display on that output.
> 
> 
> Set this way, when you select this input device on the Main path the HDMI will bring in audio and the HDMI video will be discarded (since there's no HDMI TV connected, and copy protected HDMI input content can not be sent to a Component output). The Main Component ouput will, thus, be turned off. But the SEPARATE Component video you connected will still be LIVE, and will go UNprocessed to the Zone 2 output! Finally select the input on the TV that you have connected to the Anthem's Zone 2 output.
> 
> 
> You can't process the high def video "passed through" this way, so this is equivalent to running Component directly from the player to the TV. There's no way to use HDMI for audio and ALSO process Component video through the Anthem. HDMI copy protection won't let you mix HDMI audio with video from any other source. But set up as above, the Component video goes unprocessed through to the Zone 2 output anyway.
> 
> 
> The reason for doing all this is for when you want to play standard DVDs.
> 
> 
> To play standard DVDs, set the player to send 480i over Component video and "bitstream" digital audio over the optical digital audio cable. Meanwhile set a second input device on the Anthem (perhaps DVD2) to send the appropriate Component input to the scaler and to use the optical digital audio input for audio. Finally select the input on the TV that you have connected to the Anthem's Main Component output.
> 
> 
> This is the normal setup for processing Component video along with "bitstream" digital audio from a player. The audio (and video) coming in on the HDMI cable is ignored. The Zone 2 output would have an UNprocessed version of the Component input on it, but you ignore that by switching the TV to its other Component input. As usual, the Anthem video output settings would be set to produce the best output resolution, etc., for your display on that Main Component output.
> 
> 
> To switch from one playing mode to the other you need to:
> 
> 
> 1) Set the video output resolution on the player. If the player doesn't automatically switch between HDMI PCM output and "bitstream" output over the optical cable then you need to select that as well.
> 
> 
> 2) Select the appropriate input device on the Anthem. As described above that would be DVD for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs and DVD2 for standard DVD discs.
> 
> 
> 3) Select the appropriate Component video input on the TV. Use Component from the Main path for watching standard DVDs. Use Component from the Zone 2 path for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray movies.
> 
> 
> This setup gains lossless digital audio over HDMI for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray playback at the expense of losing the abilty to process the high def video on its way from the player to the display. You also lose the Anthem On Screen Display when playing HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs this way. But you can still process all forms of STANDARD video (including OSD) and get digital bitstream audio over the optical connection for standard DVD play as normal.
> 
> 
> Once again, to get BOTH lossless HDMI audio AND processed video for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray play you have no alternative but to change to a display with an HDMI video input.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Couldn't I use this setup but only run one set of component cables from component 2 out from the D2 to my projector. And for each source other than my blu ray player select processed for the component 2 video output? So I would have my cable box and dvd player hooked up component with optical for each and my BD player hooked up with hdmi and component. I am still waiting for my bluray player to arrive and wondering if this setup will work.


Thanks


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Couldn't I use this setup but only run one set of component cables from component 2 out from the D2 to my projector. And for each source other than my blu ray player select processed for the component 2 video output? So I would have my cable box and dvd player hooked up component with optical for each and my BD player hooked up with hdmi and component. I am still waiting for my bluray player to arrive and wondering if this setup will work.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



The problem with that idea is that the "processed" vs. "unprocessed" choice is not selectable on a per-input basis.


It's something that you select in Setup / Video Output and affects the video processing for ALL input devices.


However, there's no good reason I can think of why this has to be this way. The only thing I'm not sure of is the interaction with things like "Simulcast" audio processing. It MIGHT be possible for Anthem to set this up for selection on a per input basis.


Now when that article was written, the Anthem software only had one Video Output setup. The current software (V1.12s AKA V1.2) has two. So if you don't have any better use for the second Video Output setup, you might be able to do what you suggest using those two.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Your writeup is outstanding and has helped me alot.
> 
> 
> Thanks, again.



Thanks for the kind words!


I'd written what I thought was the same stuff multiple times, but for some reason, people seemed to really dote on that particular version of it. So Michael nabbed it for his thread. It's already a little dated (there are HDMI V1.3 receivers shipping now with DTS-HD MA decoders), but otherwise captures the gist of what's going on.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok guys, obligatory post to bump this thread back up.
> 
> Please indulge me for a bit.
> 
> I bought a D1 in 2004 after hearing a friend's.
> 
> The "promise" of the upgrade sealed that deal.
> 
> I got pretty impatient about the upgrade after having to listen to all the D2 owners rave about it.
> 
> I came close to buying a D2 but waited.
> 
> I called Frank in December to see what the hell was up with the upgrade and he cheerily gave me a RA number.
> 
> To make a long story not so long, I finally did the upgrade in _July_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , only to have my pj lamp fail upon the D1-HDs arrival.
> 
> Got the lamp today and will hopefully restart my theater tonight.
> 
> This is an awesome thread and represents the very best of AVS and it's members.
> 
> Thanks to everyone.



A new batch of Mascots is about ready to hatch!

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We have a 'ton' in common with the D2,P5/P2,oppo,HD DVD, Escient, M&K s150 (I have six installed, three front and Mirror three s150 in wall's in the rear) and ss150 sides, currently set up Bi Polar. The configuration is designed to change by source and codec. I have three subs (350) currently in front but I suspect I will add a fourth when I can finally execute a proper calibration with the 'soon to be released' production release ver 1.2 (I think).
> 
> 
> Since we both have the D2/Ruby/Stewart Screen we share an additional challenge, I believe, and that is that my "sweet spot" has moved considerably closer to the screen than any traditional floorplans would call for as the quality of viewing experience is so profoundly better than anything available until recently. This means that the original placements for the tri-polar ss150's is waaay too far back and either needs to be moved forward which then has a debilitating effect on the quality of the rear seats or I am now convinced a second pair has to be added for the side surrounds. I do NOT employ the side surrounds for DTS as I am a firm believer in matching all discrete sources on the front and back.
> 
> 
> I don't think that I've seen any recognition from an engineering standpoint on the inevitable changes in speaker locations due to the shift in viewing distance for a well calibrated high definition environment but I expect that this is probably the best place to discuss the issue as Anthem, hopefully will offer some flexibility to the higher end domestic theaters that rely on the Statement pre/pro to offer maximum benefit for both video and audio elements in a calibrated environment.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure I would want to try and answer your question on whether to configure the SS150's to Tri or Bi-polar before I have wrestled the foregoing issues to the ground.
> 
> 
> Did any of that make sense? I apologize if it didn't!
> 
> 
> Peter



I've run into this same phenomenon with my system. Fortunately, since I'm at the beginning of a major theater reconstruction, I'm just going to move the speakers and the seating position forward. But I know exactly that you are going through.


----------



## cecaa850

ARRRGH, I ordered mine (D2) on 7/14 and just found out that it may be another 3 weeks before i get it. Hopefully the wait will be worth it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Wow. Back up to 6 weeks backorder. Just shows how eager folks are to get their V1.2 software. (grin!)


----------



## cecaa850

Well............after calling Anthem Directly and several calls to the store, I think I found the "problem". Apparantly the store that I bought through placed my order through a nationwide sales rep via e-mail. ASSUMING the rep got it and placed the order, we all sat back and waited. Come delivery time, no D2. What the dealer failed to tell me is that they did absolutely no follow through on the order with their rep to be sure he received and placed the order. Now after several calls, the order appears to be placed. I'll feel better when they call me back with an order number. That's why it'll be 3 more weeks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sigh. I continue to think that Anthem's dealer network (at least in the US) is the weakest part of their business.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Couldn't agree more Bob. Anthem is kind of stuck between the high end snobby boutique dealers and the mass market dealers like BB and CC. I'd like nothing better then to see them go Internet direct and custom installer route.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow. Back up to 6 weeks backorder. Just shows how eager folks are to get their V1.2 software. (grin!)



Hmm... can I trade my D2 in for a D2 so I can get the new firmware?


----------



## ddimberio

Question for the HT experts...I am adding a 2nd sub to my system - I currently have an older M&K sub I use right now. I just purchased Boston Acoustic's SA1 and 2 Boston in-floor subwoofers from my dealer. These subs will go underneath the floor riser in the rear of my theater. I heard this in the dealer showroom and it added an incredible deep tight bass effect to movies I have never "seen" before. Needless to say, I was sold....now, onto my question: How would you guys hook the subwoofers to the D2? - simply hook the M&K to subwoofer 1 out and the Boston's to subwoofer 2 out? Or, is there something painfully obvious that I am missing which may do the job better. I will only be using the Boston's and M&K when watching movies and only use the M&K for music. Thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks, David


----------



## bluemark81

I just purchased a Velodyne DD-15 sub and have the LFE running to the sub from my AVM-50. I have the L/R audio running back to my AVM-50 and using my Aux composite connections. Because the sub has onscreen programming through the TV, I have the video from the sub running to my Aux video inputs on the AVM-50 also.


My question is how do I configure the source setup screen for sub using the above connections? Currently, I am not able to get video unless I run the video cable directly to my TV, but I would rather run it through the Anthem.


Also, what is the purpose of the L/R outputs running from the sub to the Anthem?


Thanks


----------



## randman

I have a Velodyne SMS-1 (sub eq) and others with the D2 or AVM50 also have Velodyne DD subs. I have my SMS-1 connected directly to my projector to get the video. The D2 (and I suppose the AVM50 as well) can't handle the video signal generated by the SMS-1 (and the DD subs). Anthem suspects that maybe the SMS-1 and DD subs' video signal is not 100% standard, causing issues when the D2/AVM50 try to process the video. I also posted in the Velodyne support forum, and the Velodyne rep said he'll send the info back to their folks (but warning that it will take a while if and when there is a resolution). So, I've connected my SMS-1 directly to my projector, and haven't worried about it since. I figure, it's not important to have the Anthem do the scaling of my EQ graphs (thought it would be nice to just worry about one cable to the projector).


The output from the sub to the Anthem is so that the sub can feed a signal to the Anthem, and the signal is used to analyze the bass behavior of your room (which is picked up by the mike). This is mentioned in the manual, but you might also want to go to http://www.outlawaudio.com/ . They wrote their own user's guide for the SMS-1 (which would also apply to the DD sub series). I haven't read this guide closely (since it didn't exist when I first got my SMS-1), but it looked like it has additional information/tips that may also be useful.


EDIT: here's a link to Outlaw's guide:

http://pdf.outlawaudio.com/outlaw/docs/sms1guide.pdf


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just purchased a Velodyne DD-15 sub and have the LFE running to the sub from my AVM-50. I have the L/R audio running back to my AVM-50 and using my Aux composite connections. Because the sub has onscreen programming through the TV, I have the video from the sub running to my Aux video inputs on the AVM-50 also.
> 
> 
> My question is how do I configure the source setup screen for sub using the above connections? Currently, I am not able to get video unless I run the video cable directly to my TV, but I would rather run it through the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Also, what is the purpose of the L/R outputs running from the sub to the Anthem?
> 
> 
> Thanks



There is a long standing problem with the S-video output from the Velodyne DD series products and the D2 and AVM-50. For some reason the Anthem scaler doesn't recognize the video input and so you get no video output. [There have been several proposed explanations for why this is happening, but no confirmation yet.]


I don't know if this has been fixed in the latest software (V1.12s AKA V1.2) since I'm still on the "original" V1.11 software. But if the problem still exists, the workaround is to run a separate S-video line from the Anthem S-video output to your TV. Meanwhile, specify the S-video jack in the Setup / Source Setup menu for the input you choose to use for the Velodyne audio input. When you want to see the Velodyne user interface, select that Anthem input AND ALSO switch your TV to look at the S-video output from the Anthem. The Velodyne S-video will be "passed through" the Anthem without problem and on to your TV.


The purpose of the L/R audio connections from the Velodyne to the Anthem is to let the Velodyne generate test audio signals that goes through the Anthem and thus appears partly on the Front L/R speakers and partly on the subwoofer (LFE) output of the Anthem -- according to the crossover settings you have specified. Thus you can configure the Velodyne to best deal with the combined room response of the main speakers (as represented by the Front L/R speakers) and the Velodyne subwoofer itself. The Anthem's audio should be set to "Stereo" mode when doing this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question for the HT experts...I am adding a 2nd sub to my system - I currently have an older M&K sub I use right now. I just purchased Boston Acoustic's SA1 and 2 Boston in-floor subwoofers from my dealer. These subs will go underneath the floor riser in the rear of my theater. I heard this in the dealer showroom and it added an incredible deep tight bass effect to movies I have never "seen" before. Needless to say, I was sold....now, onto my question: How would you guys hook the subwoofers to the D2? - simply hook the M&K to subwoofer 1 out and the Boston's to subwoofer 2 out? Or, is there something painfully obvious that I am missing which may do the job better. I will only be using the Boston's and M&K when watching movies and only use the M&K for music. Thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks, David



As a start, hook the two subs to the two subwoofer outputs of the Anthem and specify that you have two subwoofers in the Anthem Speaker Configuration. This last setting adjusts the test output volume from the Anthem.


Note however that you will only have one subwoofer setting in the Anthem affecting both outputs. Thus only one crossover, polarity and phase setting. You may get better results using the controls built into the subs themselves to fine tune this.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Thanks guys. I was wondering if it was another compatibility issue between the Anthem and the sub. Regarding the audio feeds, I did happen to figure it out as I continued playing around with it last night. This thing is impressive! And the piano black matches my new pianao black Sig V2's so nicely. Thanks again for the help. I knew I came to the right place.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't know if this has been fixed in the latest software (V1.12s AKA V1.2) since I'm still on the "original" V1.11 software. But if the problem still exists, the workaround is to run a separate S-video line from the Anthem S-video output to your TV. Meanwhile, specify the S-video jack in the Setup / Source Setup menu for the input you choose to use for the Velodyne audio input. When you want to see the Velodyne user interface, select that Anthem input AND ALSO switch your TV to look at the S-video output from the Anthem. The Velodyne S-video will be "passed through" the Anthem without problem and on to your TV.




Bob:


I too am still using V1.11e software, but if I understand what you are telling me, wouldn't I accomplish the same thing by running S-video directly to the TV from the sub? What I was trying to avoid was the neccessity to switch the TV input to see the DD on-screen info. I would still have to switch TV inputs if I connect things the way you suggest, unless I am not understanding what you are telling me.


Thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I too am still using V1.11e software, but if I understand what you are telling me, wouldn't I accomplish the same thing by running S-video directly to the TV from the sub? What I was trying to avoid was the neccessity to switch the TV input to see the DD on-screen info. I would still have to switch TV inputs if I connect things the way you suggest, unless I am not understanding what you are telling me.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



You still have to switch the TV inputs due to whatever is happening with this bug. The value of running S-video to the Anthem and then from the Anthem to the TV is that you won't have to re-wire things once Anthem/Velodyne finally fix this issue. At that point the scaler in the Anthem will pick up on the Velodyne S-video input and you'll then have video output on your normal Anthem output connections. It just makes it easier when that finally happens.


Also, in case you haven't spotted it, there's a writeup on my experience setting up a Velodyne DD-15 in the collection of links in the first post in this thread.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Came home from Mexico last night and went right downstairs to see if my guy who set up the theater three years ago, got the D2 running. He has no experience with it.


Tivo picture and sounds seems great without any tweeks done.

But, I cannot get any sound or picture out of my panasonic 45a dvd player.

I have the coaxial connected to the dvd.

Even tried the dvd-a and sacd with analog and hit the six chanel. no luck.


Bob, please send some help and mascots.. thanks in advance..

Probably have to call my sales person in Chicago and have him come out.

Gerry


boy, the forum slowed down, no posts for over a day...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, please send some mascots..


----------



## slots1

Thanks dr... you beat bob


By the way the D2 came with 1.1. Nick did send me 1.2s, but I have not installed it yet. Should I??

Gerry


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks dr... you beat bob
> 
> 
> By the way the D2 came with 1.1. Nick did send me 1.2s, but I have not installed it yet. Should I??
> 
> Gerry



My Recommendation is NO.


I am still using 1.11 for a year now and never a reason

to change a single thing.


I assume you are using 1.11 not 1.1


If you have some wacky stuff that requires the new software

then the answer is different.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Nick did send me 1.2s, but I have not installed it yet. Should I??





> Quote:
> My Recommendation is NO.



Really?

I just got my D1 upgraded to the D2 w\\1.2 and I'm having no issues that I know of.

BTW, I've been watching the HD DVD set of Band of Brothers.

Very nice.

I really like the VXP processing and the HDMI inputs.

Solid, artifact-free picture.

I had a friend over who also has a projector but his only HD is cable and asked his opinion.

"Looks 3-D"

I agree.


----------



## slots1

When I pressed status it said 1.10 not 1.11..

So maybe I will install 1.2


gerry


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When I pressed status it said 1.10 not 1.11..
> 
> So maybe I will install 1.2
> 
> 
> gerry



I believe the only difference between 1.10 and 1.11 is a new

FW Loader - because people who tried to update to 1.10 had

problems with the upgrade.


It is always your choice to upgrade on not.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my D1 upgraded to the D2 w\\1.2 and I'm having no issues that I know of.



It sounds like you need some Mascots


----------



## Milt99

Thanks. Doc.

OK, here's a really pathetic question:

I can't get the front display to turnoff.

I set the display timeout to 7 seconds but it has no effect.

I don't remember having to do anything special prior to the upgrade to get the timeout feature working.

Any ideas?

Thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. Doc.
> 
> OK, here's a really pathetic question:
> 
> I can't get the front display to turnoff.
> 
> I set the display timeout to 7 seconds but it has no effect.
> 
> I don't remember having to do anything special prior to the upgrade to get the timeout feature working.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks.



Don't ask me man.


1) I don't use version 1.2


2) My display is always on. I'm sure there is a setting somewhere.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

They snuck in at least one important change between V1.10 and V1.11 -- the HDMI PCM 10dB LFE boost is properly implemented in V1.11. If you have V1.10 and are using an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player you should probably upgrade to V1.12s (not V1.11).


I'm running V1.11 myself, and I'm not affected in any serious way by the bugs we know to be in it. Also I'm stubborn. So I'm not upgrading to V1.12s (or any other version), until it shows up on the Anthem web site as the official public release. I've no idea why they are waiting. There have been a few reported problems here with V1.12s, but nothing all that serious compared to what's known to be wrong with V1.11 (the version they currently have on their web site).


As I recall we had one report here of the front panel display not timing out in one of the V1.11 releases that was rapidly replaced. So I thought that problem was only in that briefly existing version, and was already fixed. If it is happening again in V1.12s (AKA V1.2) then that's a nuisance that should be reported to Anthem tech support. Understand that each time the display changes the timeout starts over. So of course with each remote press the display will light up and then eventually time out. But also, if you go to a display that changes after a bit to something else (i.e., Mode display or Volume display eventually returns to standard output display) then the timeout period RESTARTS after the display cycles itself. The same happen if the display changes on its own due to, say, the input audio format changing. So the timeout may be working but just taking longer than you expect. Finally, you will see no change in front panel display brightness unless the two brightness settings (normal brightness and higher wakeup brightness) are different. If you accidentally change the normal Front Panel display brightness to High using the remote for example ("8" key), it will never dim. You will also see no change (brighter or dimmer) if the wakeup brightness change is set to None. See sections 3.11 and 4.10 of the manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks to DRHANKZ for acting as Mascot shipping department. Note that we are shipping these things with no time to train them to do gymnastics at the moment, but they ARE house trained, so enjoy them!

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks to DRHANKZ for acting as Mascot shipping department. Note that we are shipping these things with no time to train them to do gymnastics at the moment, but they ARE house trained, so enjoy them!
> 
> --Bob




BOT ONLY BOB has the Tricked out Mascots.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When I pressed status it said 1.10 not 1.11..
> 
> So maybe I will install 1.2
> 
> 
> gerry



Did you buy a new D2 or a dealer demo unit? Are you in the US or Canada or in some other country? I ask because as far as we know Anthem has not factory installed V1.10 in new D2s for over 6 months now.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Came home from Mexico last night and went right downstairs to see if my guy who set up the theater three years ago, got the D2 running. He has no experience with it.
> 
> 
> Tivo picture and sounds seems great without any tweeks done.
> 
> But, I cannot get any sound or picture out of my panasonic 45a dvd player.
> 
> I have the coaxial connected to the dvd.
> 
> Even tried the dvd-a and sacd with analog and hit the six chanel. no luck.
> 
> 
> Bob, please send some help and mascots.. thanks in advance..
> 
> Probably have to call my sales person in Chicago and have him come out.
> 
> Gerry
> 
> 
> boy, the forum slowed down, no posts for over a day...



Are you still having trouble with your DVD player?


You say you are using coaxial for the DVD. Do you mean Component video cabling? What are you using for audio connection? Are you sure those outputs are turned on? [NOTE: Some early HDMI players muted their other outputs if an HDMI cable was plugged into them, even if the HDMI cable was not actually being used.]

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. Doc.
> 
> OK, here's a really pathetic question:
> 
> I can't get the front display to turnoff.
> 
> I set the display timeout to 7 seconds but it has no effect.
> 
> I don't remember having to do anything special prior to the upgrade to get the timeout feature working.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks.



Milt... I think the display timeout is for the OSD, not the front panel...


Mine never turns off.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Milt... I think the display timeout is for the OSD, not the front panel...
> 
> 
> Mine never turns off.



Go to Setup / Displays & Timeout


Set FP Wakeup to, for example, Hi.


Set Display Timeout to, for example, 5s.


Back out of the Setup menu.


Using the remote ("8" key and then up and down arrows), set the "normal" Front Panel brightness to Low. This is the step most commonly forgotten.


Now, whenever the display changes, the Front Panel will brighten to Hi. If there is no further change, after 5s, it will dim back down to it's "normal" Low brightness.


The Display Timeout setting affects the OSD, the Front Panel, and also the return to Main Path displays (if you were operating in a different path).


Most times, two changes have to happen in the display before things stop changing (the second one being the return to the normal Main path display text). That means, if your Display Timeout is 5 seconds, it will typically take 10 seconds before the Front Panel actually dims.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

Bob,

I think that's it.

I did go into the display button on the remote and I should have selected OFF.

That way the display will turn off after the time out setting has been satisfied.

I'll confirm after work.

Thanks.


I have a totally light-controlled room with the equipment in the rear of the room.

It is surprising how little light it takes to raise the level in a room.


----------



## slots1

Bob,

Thanks, can you come over and train the mascots to say thank you.

Yes, my D2 was a demo bought in Chicago from a dealer that was closing a store. Good deal. So it is probably over 6 months old. My P2 and P5 are brand new.

I did get into the setup program and set the dvd player to the right video, component. And set the audio to optical.

Also, set the 6 chanel to play my dvd a and sacd. so far so good.

When I change chanels with my tivo 250 hidef, I have had no lag time.

So, at this point I think I agree I will not install the 1.12s.

Gerry Landy from Chicago. Bob if you are ever in the area come and visit my home theater.


----------



## alg1959

I currently own an AVM 30 and am considering the D2, perhaps purchased used.

I am also considering buying a new Pioneer PDP 5080HD plasma TV. It has 1365 x 768 resolution in a 720p format. I'm not sure if it has a "native" setting. If not, does that mean I would not get the full benefit of the D2? Are these two compatible?

If I didn't go the D2 route, and kept my AVM30, I would connect the two via component inputs, right? What loss would I notice between that and HDMI?


I know these are pretty simple questions, but I'm rather new at this. Thanks for your help.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alg1959* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I currently own an AVM 30 and am considering the D2, perhaps purchased used.
> 
> I am also considering buying a new Pioneer PDP 5080HD plasma TV. It has 1365 x 768 resolution in a 720p format. I'm not sure if it has a "native" setting. If not, does that mean I would not get the full benefit of the D2? Are these two compatible?
> 
> If I didn't go the D2 route, and kept my AVM30, I would connect the two via component inputs, right? What loss would I notice between that and HDMI?
> 
> 
> I know these are pretty simple questions, but I'm rather new at this. Thanks for your help.



Just my two cent opinion - but anyone purchasing

a NEW DISPLAY today who does not purchase one

that supports 1080p/24 natively is throwing his money

away.


Prices have come way way way down. WHY buy something

that is 2 years obsolete already.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just my two cent opinion - but anyone purchasing
> 
> a NEW DISPLAY today who does not purchase one
> 
> that supports 1080p/24 natively is throwing his money
> 
> away.
> 
> 
> Prices have come way way way down. WHY buy something
> 
> that is 2 years obsolete already.



I agree with this completely! If you want to get any time value out of a display purchase you need 1080p. And the 24p gets you ready for the HD movie formats.


I don't know what a 50" plasma goes for exactly but it can't be too cheap. With that kind of investment, protect it by buying (somewhat) future-proof.


Unfortunately, my Sony Ruby pj is 1080p but not 24p-capable. I think drhankz traded in his Ruby (for an RS-1?). I'll possibly be looking at losing a lot of money trading into the VPL-60. Thus I'm intimately familiar with buying high and selling low due to rapid technological advances.


----------



## Milt99

FilmMixer, etal.

In order to get the front panel display to turn off via the timeout setting:

Set the desired timeout , 0 to 15 secs, in the setup menu and exit.

Press button 8-Display on the remote, select *OFF* and press enter.

The front panel will then turn off after the specified timeout has elapsed.

Pressing any key on the remote or front panel will activate the display.

HTH.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree with this completely! If you want to get any time value out of a display purchase you need 1080p. And the 24p gets you ready for the HD movie formats.
> 
> 
> I don't know what a 50" plasma goes for exactly but it can't be too cheap. With that kind of investment, protect it by buying (somewhat) future-proof.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, my Sony Ruby pj is 1080p but not 24p-capable. I think drhankz traded in his Ruby (for an RS-1?). I'll possibly be looking at losing a lot of money trading into the VPL-60. Thus I'm intimately familiar with buying high and selling low due to rapid technological advances.



Thanks for your support Gordon.


At Christmas I bought a 1080p LCD display for $1500. Good

Values are out there if you look.


As for my Ruby - I'm sticking with it until I see the Diamond.

The RS-1 gets me 24fps - but not any other improvements.


----------



## alg1959

Thanks for your responses.

The Pioneer I'm looking at is around $2500. It has received great reviews for its black level, and its purported 20,000:1 contrast. The 1080p plasmas seem to be $4-7000. Out of my range. Am I missing something?


What I usually hear is:

1080p is only effective at close range. Back up and you can't see the difference.

No station is broadcasting in 1080, and won't for quite some time.

Why spend your money on a technology whose day is not yet.

Can you get the benefits today, other than through expensive DVD players?


The other part of my question has to do with the D2.

Is it a loss to invest in a D2 with a 720p monitor?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alg1959* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for your responses.
> 
> The Pioneer I'm looking at is around $2500. It has received great reviews for its black level, and its purported 20,000:1 contrast. The 1080p plasmas seem to be $4-7000. Out of my range. Am I missing something?
> 
> 
> What I usually hear is:
> 
> 1080p is only effective at close range. Back up and you can't see the difference.
> 
> No station is broadcasting in 1080, and won't for quite some time.
> 
> Why spend your money on a technology whose day is not yet.
> 
> Can you get the benefits today, other than through expensive DVD players?
> 
> 
> The other part of my question has to do with the D2.
> 
> Is it a loss to invest in a D2 with a 720p monitor?



You are paying 5 times as much for Plasma which is in the

process of being phased out by every manufacturer except

pioneer.


Look at LCD's 1/5 the price.


VIEW THE DIFFERENCE before you PAY for the difference.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alg1959* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for your responses.
> 
> The Pioneer I'm looking at is around $2500. It has received great reviews for its black level, and its purported 20,000:1 contrast. The 1080p plasmas seem to be $4-7000. Out of my range. Am I missing something?
> 
> 
> What I usually hear is:
> 
> 1080p is only effective at close range. Back up and you can't see the difference.
> 
> No station is broadcasting in 1080, and won't for quite some time.
> 
> Why spend your money on a technology whose day is not yet.
> 
> Can you get the benefits today, other than through expensive DVD players?
> 
> 
> The other part of my question has to do with the D2.
> 
> Is it a loss to invest in a D2 with a 720p monitor?



The question I'd ask is how long do you want to keep this TV before trading up? If it is more than two years then I'd advise looking at some way to juggle the budget. All the interesting R+D will be done on products supporting 1080p. No one will be putting effort into 720 products from here on out.


With a 50 inch screen you are at the point where you might see the difference between 720 and 1080.


You are incorrect on HD broadcast: CBS, NBC, PBS, DiscoveryHD are in 1080i. ABC, Fox, ESPNHD are in 720p. (No network will be able to transmit in 1080p due to the limitation of the ATSC standard. Not a big deal as far as picture quality goes - especially if you have a great deinterlacer like the D2 or AVM50.)


You CAN get benefit today from BluRay and HD DVD. Or wait a bit and get a dual format player.


Of course, I have a front projector and a 10 foot screen - so it's a no brainer for me. I understand how you might not figure it's worth the risk.


As far as the D2 - unless you're into the absolute highest end audio AND the room correction upgrade due this fall, you might look at the Anthem AVM50. It has the EXACT same video processing as the D2 and the audio processing is very close. You could save a couple thousand right there.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alg1959* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for your responses.
> 
> The Pioneer I'm looking at is around $2500. It has received great reviews for its black level, and its purported 20,000:1 contrast. The 1080p plasmas seem to be $4-7000. Out of my range. Am I missing something?
> 
> 
> What I usually hear is:
> 
> 1080p is only effective at close range. Back up and you can't see the difference.
> 
> No station is broadcasting in 1080, and won't for quite some time.
> 
> Why spend your money on a technology whose day is not yet.
> 
> Can you get the benefits today, other than through expensive DVD players?
> 
> 
> The other part of my question has to do with the D2.
> 
> Is it a loss to invest in a D2 with a 720p monitor?



Well, what is your viewing distance?


If your screen isn't big enough/distance not close enough for a 1080p screen resolution to benefit you then a video processor probably will not either.


To say it another way, I wouldn't skimp on the quality of the display just to purchase a vp/AVR like the D2/AVM50. Get a quality display that you'll be happy with and then go from there.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are paying 5 times as much for Plasma which is in the
> 
> process of being phased out by every manufacturer except
> 
> pioneer.
> 
> 
> Look at LCD's 1/5 the price.
> 
> 
> VIEW THE DIFFERENCE before you PAY for the difference.




Hold on then DRHankz. 1: Plasma tv's in the 50 inch size and Lcd tv's in the 50 inch size for 1080p models up here in Canada are the same price.(Panasonic vs Sony/Samsung/Sharp). Not 5 times more! Plasma is not being phased out by everyone except for pioneer, making a bold statement like that you better offer up something to support your statement.


Anyone considering a 1080p in the 50" size should buy a plasma unless they have issues with lighting in the room. There is no other advantage to buy an lcd other than slightly less (And I mean slightly) power consumption.


John


----------



## Milt99

alg1959,

What display do you have now?

I'm not up on flat panels but don't you want to wait for CEDIA for any new model announcements and wait to see if a new one is in order or pick up last year's model at a discount?

IMO, timing the purchase of a display can be tricky with improved performance and the falling prices.

If you're not in a hurry, I'd suggest waiting for a bit and see the new models\\pricing and then decide which way to go.


----------



## Djoel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are paying 5 times as much for Plasma which is in the
> 
> process of being phased out by every manufacturer except
> 
> pioneer.
> 
> 
> Look at LCD's 1/5 the price.
> 
> 
> VIEW THE DIFFERENCE before you PAY for the difference.







where can I get a 50 " LCD for 500












DJoel


----------



## audioNeil

I'll be getting a Pioneer Pro-150FD in a few weeks, and would like to get the most out of DVDs and HD-DVD. The Pio accepts 1080p24 for movies.


I have a Toshiba HD-A1 that only does 1080i60 (although source is 24p). I would be willing to upgrade this if necessary.


What I want to know is if I upgrade my Anthem D1 to a D1-HD, can I expect that it will be able to take my DVDs, as well as my HD-DVDs, and output them in 1080p24?


I have heard conflicting information on this -- that the Anthem can't do this yet, or can do it only with certain sources. It's not worth it to upgrade my Anthem if I don't get some benefit by it - namely better 24p support. Otherwise, I'll go HDMI direct from my sources to the TV, and use analog (for HD-DVD) or S/PDIF for the audio.


----------



## agrsiv95

Anyone have any updates on the clicking/popping Or thermal issues?


Jeremy


----------



## Joe C5

Well, I have only tried it one time so far, but the new Pioneer firmware for the BDP-HD1 appears to have resolved the power-up lockup issue. Firmware version is 3.5.


Make that twice now.


----------



## mr_fitz

How many here are using the D2 with a scope screen and anamorphic lens?


John


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hold on then DRHankz. 1: Plasma tv's in the 50 inch size and Lcd tv's in the 50 inch size for 1080p models up here in Canada are the same price.(Panasonic vs Sony/Samsung/Sharp). Not 5 times more! Plasma is not being phased out by everyone except for pioneer, making a bold statement like that you better offer up something to support your statement.
> 
> 
> Anyone considering a 1080p in the 50" size should buy a plasma unless they have issues with lighting in the room. There is no other advantage to buy an lcd other than slightly less (And I mean slightly) power consumption.
> 
> 
> John



I don't want to start a display battle, but LCDs have won the war in the flat panel market. As to your power consumption point, the new LED backlights in the LCD panels use significantly less power than any plasma display out there. Also, many high end LCD displays use 3M Vikuiti films that cut the power consumption by about 1/2. I know that these are used in many of the better LCD panels.


Buddy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone have any updates on the clicking/popping Or thermal issues?
> 
> 
> Jeremy



I'm curious about this, too. So far we've had one poster who had his Anthem swapped out, and that eliminated his clicks while using a PS3 source. We also have info that the problem of the PS3 causing the Anthem Scaler to crash and restart due to overheating (workaround = add an external fan) has been fixed with the V1.12s software.


Any additional updates?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I have only tried it one time so far, but the new Pioneer firmware for the BDP-HD1 appears to have resolved the power-up lockup issue. Firmware version is 3.5.
> 
> 
> Make that twice now.



Good news! I'm glad to hear that Pioneer and Anthem engineering are working so well together.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioNeil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll be getting a Pioneer Pro-150FD in a few weeks, and would like to get the most out of DVDs and HD-DVD. The Pio accepts 1080p24 for movies.
> 
> 
> I have a Toshiba HD-A1 that only does 1080i60 (although source is 24p). I would be willing to upgrade this if necessary.
> 
> 
> What I want to know is if I upgrade my Anthem D1 to a D1-HD, can I expect that it will be able to take my DVDs, as well as my HD-DVDs, and output them in 1080p24?
> 
> 
> I have heard conflicting information on this -- that the Anthem can't do this yet, or can do it only with certain sources. It's not worth it to upgrade my Anthem if I don't get some benefit by it - namely better 24p support. Otherwise, I'll go HDMI direct from my sources to the TV, and use analog (for HD-DVD) or S/PDIF for the audio.



Anthem still has not solved 1080i/60Hz or 480i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz conversion completely.


The latest software, V1.12s, goes quite a long ways towards making 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 work properly, but 480i/60 to 1080p/24 (which is what you would want for your standard DVD player) is still not right.


However, Anthem is obviously now working on this, and I wouldn't be surprised to find it is fixed in the next software release.


For HD-DVD playback, I'll let someone here who is using the Toshiba A1 comment on whether 1080i/60 (from an A1) to 1080p/24 seems to be working properly with V1.12s software.


Meanwhile, 1080p/24 in to 1080p/24 out now DOES seem to be working properly for folks who have players that do 1080p/24 output.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't want to start a display battle, but LCDs have won the war in the flat panel market. As to your power consumption point, the new LED backlights in the LCD panels use significantly less power than any plasma display out there. Also, many high end LCD displays use 3M Vikuiti films that cut the power consumption by about 1/2. I know that these are used in many of the better LCD panels.
> 
> 
> Buddy



I have but two quotes for you:

" People buy cheap, crappy LCDs because of the low price tag and because they don't know any better."


"Plasma out sells LCD by 10 to 1 in the over 40 inch division"


----------



## audioNeil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The latest software, V1.12s, goes quite a long ways towards making 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 work properly, but 480i/60 to 1080p/24 (which is what you would want for your standard DVD player) is still not right.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,


Does that mean I can use my Toshiba HD-A1 to upscale all data to 1080i60, and have it correctly transformed to 1080p24 (for those sources that are only film. I found some of Michael Moore's DVD movies seem to have a combo of film and video)?


----------



## mr_fitz

I just got my D2 back from service today and noticed a few things.


All I have done is plugged in power to the D2 and hooked up the component out to my tv.


1. Just after I plugged it in,I went into the video adjust menu and it was all pink and when I went to the test pattens, the color bar pattern was mostly green instead of black and most colors were wrong. Now about 15-30mins later that menu is fine and all colors look ok. Should I be concerned?


2. My setup menu will not show up on my tv screen. I have checked the video output settings and all seems ok but the menu won't show up. If I change the main osd color it changes on my tv but no text appears from the menu. If I change volume or hit the enter button on the remote to see my video input, video ouput, audio input...serial # settings, the text shows up fine. Am i missing something?


Please help. I really hope that this issue can be resolved as I had to send back my D2 shortly after receiving it the first time. It would kill me to send it back again.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioNeil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> Does that mean I can use my Toshiba HD-A1 to upscale all data to 1080i60, and have it correctly transformed to 1080p24 (for those sources that are only film. I found some of Michael Moore's DVD movies seem to have a combo of film and video)?



I don't use an A1, nor am I running the latest Anthem "test" software, so I'm not certain how well 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 works from the A1 with that software. In addition, I suspect the problem Anthem is having with standard DVD stuff is the number and type of "bad edit" transitions in standard DVD stuff which are screwing up the 1080p/24 conversion. I suspect there are fewer of those in the HD-DVD and Blu-Ray stuff due to the different authoring systems used. If I'm correct, you'd have the same problems even if you let the A1 scale the standard DVD up to 1080i/60 first.


But even if it DOES work correctly, my bet would be you'll be overall happier if you feed the Anthem 480i/60 and let it do the de-interlacing and scaling, even if the result is 1080p/60 instead of 1080p/24. The brain's perception of cadence judder is much MUCH less than the brain's perception of de-interlacing and scaling flaws.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my D2 back from service today and noticed a few things.
> 
> 
> All I have done is plugged in power to the D2 and hooked up the component out to my tv.
> 
> 
> 1. Just after I plugged it in,I went into the video adjust menu and it was all pink and when I went to the test pattens, the color bar pattern was mostly green instead of black and most colors were wrong. Now about 15-30mins later that menu is fine and all colors look ok. Should I be concerned?
> 
> 
> 2. My setup menu will not show up on my tv screen. I have checked the video output settings and all seems ok but the menu won't show up. If I change the main osd color it changes on my tv but no text appears from the menu. If I change volume or hit the enter button on the remote to see my video input, video ouput, audio input...serial # settings, the text shows up fine. Am i missing something?
> 
> 
> Please help. I really hope that this issue can be resolved as I had to send back my D2 shortly after receiving it the first time. It would kill me to send it back again.
> 
> 
> John



Go through the Setup / Video Output settings using the Front Panel display. In particular, since you are using Component out, be sure you have Setup / Video Output / Preference = COMPONENT set.


In addition, you may need to explicitly set the Setup / Video Output / Data Format to what your TV likes.


Remember that you have to "Accept" any changes when leaving the Setup / Video Output menu for them to actually take effect.


Then go to Setup / Displays & Timeout and verify that your settings match the defaults (as pictured in the manual).


In addition, double check that each of your Component cables are FULLY inserted in the jacks at both ends. The sort of stuff you are describing can also be a result of a loose connection.


Finally, note that the V1.2 software adds a second Video Output configuration. Be sure the Setup / Source Setup input you have selected is configured to use the Setup / Video Output configuration you are actually changing as you try to get things working correctly.


My bet would be it is the Data Format setting that needs to be corrected.

--Bob


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How many here are using the D2 with a scope screen and anamorphic lens?
> 
> 
> John



I am. Sharp xv-z20000 with Panamorph UH380 lens and transport (120" diagonal Carada BW screen). Needed 1.11e firmware or later to get the D2 to vertically stretch far enough (1.10 would not allow enough vertical stretch). Still doesn't stretch far enough for 480i source but any 720p/1080i/1080p source will stretch okay. Programmed a "2:35" macro on my universal remote for all my inputs that might have 2:35 source material so that when activated, switches the D2 to one of the extra inputs that Anthem added (DVD2, TV2, etc.) that has the stretch configured and brings the lens into position. A "1:78" macro reverses the process. Works and looks great!


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm curious about this, too. So far we've had one poster who had his Anthem swapped out, and that eliminated his clicks while using a PS3 source. We also have info that the problem of the PS3 causing the Anthem Scaler to crash and restart due to overheating (workaround = add an external fan) has been fixed with the V1.12s software.
> 
> 
> Any additional updates?
> 
> --Bob



I have D2 version 1.2 and have the clicks problem with the PS3 but it doesn't crash the scaler. It appears to be heat related because an external fan resolves the issue. However, it is somewhat strange since the clicks are present immediately on startup before either the PS3 or the D2 even warmed up. The D2 feels completely cool to the touch and yet the clicks still appear. Turning on the fan resolves the issue.


Anthem support has not responded to my last 2 emails (July 17 and July23) so I assume they are not doing anything about this issue.


Although I have a work around at the present time, I am convinced that my unit is not functioning properly and am hopeful that a resolution will be forthcoming.


Randy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have D2 version 1.2 and have the clicks problem with the PS3 but it doesn't crash the scaler. It appears to be heat related because an external fan resolves the issue. However, it is somewhat strange since the clicks are present immediately on startup before either the PS3 or the D2 even warmed up. The D2 feels completely cool to the touch and yet the clicks still appear. Turning on the fan resolves the issue.
> 
> 
> Anthem support has not responded to my last 2 emails (July 17 and July23) so I assume they are not doing anything about this issue.
> 
> 
> Although I have a work around at the present time, I am convinced that my unit is not functioning properly and am hopeful that a resolution will be forthcoming.
> 
> 
> Randy



That's bizarre! I'm not surprised they haven't responded.


Is the fan powered off the D2 -- perhaps a trigger output?


It makes no sense at all that a cooling fan would keep a problem from happening BEFORE things have a chance to heat up.


I don't doubt you are reporting what is actually going on, but I'm at a loss to figure out where to start to isolate the problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am. Sharp xv-z20000 with Panamorph UH380 lens and transport (120" diagonal Carada BW screen). Needed 1.11e firmware or later to get the D2 to vertically stretch far enough (1.10 would not allow enough vertical stretch). Still doesn't stretch far enough for 480i source but any 720p/1080i/1080p source will stretch okay. Programmed a "2:35" macro on my universal remote for all my inputs that might have 2:35 source material so that when activated, switches the D2 to one of the extra inputs that Anthem added (DVD2, TV2, etc.) that has the stretch configured and brings the lens into position. A "1:78" macro reverses the process. Works and looks great!



I'm surprised that the 480i input can't be stretched enough.


Be sure that your 480i input devices are set to fill the screen left to right on movies they send to the Anthem. You do NOT want ANY 480i or 480p source device to send images to the Anthem that ALREADY have pillar box bars on the left and right sides (generated by the source device). Typically the 480i device will describe the mode you actually want as "uniformly stretching" the 480i content to fill a 16:9 screen, but in reality it is not actually doing ANYTHING to the data. A 16:9 device (the Anthem in this case) simply interprets the incoming pixels as "fatter". If you set that up properly, I think the vertical stretching available in the Anthem may do the trick for you.

--Bob


----------



## legacyrocks

I have an AVM 50. I am ready to buy a new Pioneer Kuro plasma. Not sure if I should pay the extra grand for the Elite model Pro-150FD with more video adjustments and better video processing or the PDP-6010FD which is not the Elite line and a grand cheaper. I will be using the AVM 50 for video switching/ processing so it might be a waste to pay extra for the Elite. Can anyone help me out? Do you think I will see a difference between the two?


----------



## slots1

Bob,

Please help or anyone else. I have just set everything up and the sound and picture are wonderful on my 110" using the marantz S3 with the D2. I am using a dvi adapter to the hdmi cable.

Turned it off and went back on and my screen also was purple or pink. I could get to the setup menu. But of course the colors were all off.

I went to video output and changed resolution from 1920X1080i/60 back to the same and then back off and it worked fine. Turned the D2 off and back on and it was the same thing. Easy to correct, but every time!! What has to be changed?.

Also, when I put in a letter box dvd everything is fine. I put in a 3 x 4 movie dvd and it comes out stretched. I know how to change it with 7 on the remote to 3 x 4, but is their a way it will do it automatically. Do you have to set up a separate item. I have the harmony 890 and could set it up to show 3 X 4 dvd, I guess.

Gerry


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Gerry,

If your display has a DVI input, then it most likely wants RGB Data Format. The "Auto" Data Format setting will often not work reliably with DVI displays. If your video is coming out "shocking pink" then go to Setup / Video Output / Data Format and explicitly select RGB (not Extended RGB).


-------------------------------------


Not all source devices will send the aspect ratio flags to the Anthem for it to make changes automatically.


Set your DVD player to expect it is talking to a 16:9 TV, and to send out any 4:3 movies you happen to play so that they fill the 16:9 screen left to right. This will likely be described in your DVD as "uniform stretching" but in reality it means the DVD player is doing nothing to the data. A 16:9 TV just interprets the pixels as wider.


Meanwhile, set the Anthem to:


* Video Source Adjust / Crop Input = HDMI Auto Detect (even if the source is coming in on Component cables). If the source sends Aspect Ratio flags, then this will take advantage of them automatically, adjusting the Crop to be either 16:9 or 4:3 as appropriate.


* Video Source Adjust / Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box is the appropriate setting to use for ALL movies IF the player sends the Aspect Ratio flags. If not, use this just for watching 4:3 movies so that the Anthem will generate the Pillar Box bars on either side and thus display the movie in the 4:3 ratio. [If the player sends the flags, then a 16:9 movie will get a 16:9 crop from the setting above, and thus the Letter/Pillar Box setting will not need to generate any bars to match that to the 16:9 shape of your display. So the result is the same as if you had selected Anamorphic.]


* Video Source Adjust / Scale Out = Anamorphic is the setting to use for 16:9 movies if the player does not send the Aspect Ratio flags.


You can change the Scale Out setting on the fly using the short cut under the Mode key. Press and hold Mode until the current Scale Out setting is displayed, and then use the Up or Down arrow keys to change it.


If your player doesn't send the flags, you could also set up an overlayed input definition (i.e., DVD2 for example). The Video Source Adjust settings are remembered separately for each such input definition.


My player doesn't send the flags, but most movies I watch are not 4:3. So I have my DVD input set up for Scale Out = Anamorphic. Whenever I DO watch a 4:3 movie, I manually change the Scale Out to Letter/Pillar Box for the duration of that movie. My Cable TV HD box on the other hand DOES send the flags, so I have it set up for Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box, which then works automatically whether I'm watching an SDTV (4:3) or HDTV (16:9) channel.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Go through the Setup / Video Output settings using the Front Panel display. In particular, since you are using Component out, be sure you have Setup / Video Output / Preference = COMPONENT set.
> 
> *-confirmed*
> 
> 
> In addition, you may need to explicitly set the Setup / Video Output / Data Format to what your TV likes.
> 
> *-It is set to YPbPr and won't let me change it*
> 
> 
> Remember that you have to "Accept" any changes when leaving the Setup / Video Output menu for them to actually take effect.
> 
> *-Done*
> 
> 
> Then go to Setup / Displays & Timeout and verify that your settings match the defaults (as pictured in the manual).
> 
> *-Same as manual*
> 
> 
> In addition, double check that each of your Component cables are FULLY inserted in the jacks at both ends. The sort of stuff you are describing can also be a result of a loose connection.
> 
> *-Confirmed by hooking up a dvd and getting picture through to TV.*
> 
> 
> Finally, note that the V1.2 software adds a second Video Output configuration. Be sure the Setup / Source Setup input you have selected is configured to use the Setup / Video Output configuration you are actually changing as you try to get things working correctly.
> 
> *-confirmed*
> 
> 
> My bet would be it is the Data Format setting that needs to be corrected.
> 
> --Bob



The weird thing is I watch a dvd movie and it works fine for picture but when I try to access the setup menu the blue screen shows up but without any text. If I change the osd color to magenta then when I access the setup menu my picture turns off and the magenta screen shows up but with no text. I have also tried using the second component output and with the same setup as component output 1 and changing the souces to use output 2 but with the same results.


Bob any ideas?


On a side note, let's say I am watching tv and I decide to pull up the color bar test patterns. Is it normal when scrolling through each of the color bar patterns for the tv picture to flash on the screen?


Thanks again


John


----------



## slots1

Bob,

Changing to DVI worked fine. It does seem to me the blacks are not as black any longer and I had to change on my projector to the next level of black. Any comments on that change.

Yes, it looks like when I show 3 x 4 movies I will have to manually change it.

Thanks again,

Gerry


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legacyrocks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have an AVM 50. I am ready to buy a new Pioneer Kuro plasma. Not sure if I should pay the extra grand for the Elite model Pro-150FD with more video adjustments and better video processing or the PDP-6010FD which is not the Elite line and a grand cheaper. I will be using the AVM 50 for video switching/ processing so it might be a waste to pay extra for the Elite. Can anyone help me out? Do you think I will see a difference between the two?



If you're going to use the AVM 50 for all your processing/switching you're not likely to notice much of a difference. What you should be asking is whether or not the 6010FD has a dot by dot mode so you're assured that any and all processing by 6010FD would be bypassed.


And the answer to your question is a resounding yes it does!


here's the owner's manual: https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/p...ctions0713.pdf 


Good luck.


Jim


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have D2 version 1.2 and have the clicks problem with the PS3 but it doesn't crash the scaler. It appears to be heat related because an external fan resolves the issue. However, it is somewhat strange since the clicks are present immediately on startup before either the PS3 or the D2 even warmed up. The D2 feels completely cool to the touch and yet the clicks still appear. Turning on the fan resolves the issue.
> 
> 
> Anthem support has not responded to my last 2 emails (July 17 and July23) so I assume they are not doing anything about this issue.
> 
> 
> Although I have a work around at the present time, I am convinced that my unit is not functioning properly and am hopeful that a resolution will be forthcoming.
> 
> 
> Randy



Just a quick update. I heard from Amrit at Anthem today asking me to contact my dealer to obtain an RA. It appears as if this will get taken care of as we would all expect.


Randy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Changing to DVI worked fine. It does seem to me the blacks are not as black any longer and I had to change on my projector to the next level of black. Any comments on that change.
> 
> Yes, it looks like when I show 3 x 4 movies I will have to manually change it.
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Gerry



You have to calibrate the levels in your projector for the video the Anthem is sending out. See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post linked off the first post of this thread for info.


Also, check out the Data Format posts linked there as well. You may need to adjust your display to expect Studio RGB instead of Extended RGB on its DVI input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The weird thing is I watch a dvd movie and it works fine for picture but when I try to access the setup menu the blue screen shows up but without any text. If I change the osd color to magenta then when I access the setup menu my picture turns off and the magenta screen shows up but with no text. I have also tried using the second component output and with the same setup as component output 1 and changing the souces to use output 2 but with the same results.
> 
> 
> Bob any ideas?
> 
> 
> On a side note, let's say I am watching tv and I decide to pull up the color bar test patterns. Is it normal when scrolling through each of the color bar patterns for the tv picture to flash on the screen?
> 
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> 
> John



I'm afraid it sounds to me like the graphics/text generator circuit used by the on screen setup menu display is not functioning. You'll need to contact Anthem tech support. They may have a procedure to reset it.

--Bob


----------



## legacyrocks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you're going to use the AVM 50 for all your processing/switching you're not likely to notice much of a difference. What you should be asking is whether or not the 6010FD has a dot by dot mode so you're assured that any and all processing by 6010FD would be bypassed.
> 
> 
> And the answer to your question is a resounding yes it does!
> 
> 
> here's the owner's manual: https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/p...ctions0713.pdf
> 
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> 
> Jim



Thanks Jim.


----------



## AnthemAVM

I am trying to hook up my Velodyne SMS-1 to my Anthem and get the graphics on the TV.


I am hooked up via a Video S cable to the Anthem, and then HDMI to the TV, and this is what I am getting.








, any ideas what I have set wrong to get this split screen?


Thanks


----------



## FilmMixer

^^ I think this is a known issue with the SMS-1... no fix yet.


----------



## 3Dfx

AnthemAVM...


See page 285, post # 8528 and after. There is a possible workaround detailed there.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's a pity Anthem and Velodyne still haven't sorted this out. I'm afraid the competition between Velodyne and Paradigm in the subwoofer market may be getting in the way. I could understand this being a nuisance to sort out if it was just the massive subwoofers that needed to be shipped and tested, but an SMS-1 is small and inexpensive, so there's really no excuse for the two of them not to have dealt with this yet.


This problem is nearly a year old. For some reason the Anthem scaler has trouble with the S-video from the Velodyne DD series subwoofers and the SMS-1 product. Several possible reasons have been put forward for why S-video works without problem from other products but not from the Velodynes, but nobody posting here really knows why this is so.


S-video "pass through" still works just fine, however.


Thus the workaround described in the thread linked above -- run an S-video output cable from the Anthem to the TV (as well as whatever you normally use), and when you select the Velodyne as input on the Anthem, also manually switch your TV to temporarily look at that S-video input instead. Even though the Anthem scaler is confused, the S-video input will still be "passed through" (unprocessed) the the Anthem's S-video output.


If your main TV has no S-video input, or it is too inconvenient to run a cable to it, use any inexpensive, S-video capable, secondary TV and either run S-video directly to it from the Velodyne while setting things up or run it "passed through" the Anthem as just described. This is not so convenient if you want to make Velodyne changes on the fly while listening to different content.


=======================================


EDITED TO ADD: More owners of the Anthem and Velodyne stuff should complain to BOTH companies. They need to be professional about working together to resolve this.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

Hmmm I am starting to wonder if I should try and find a PS3 I can borrow to check out and see if I have this problem.


I do not own one currently, but could conceivable in the future at some time for BR playback if the studios don't come to their senses.


I would have to plug one in 16 months or 3 years after I bought the D2 and find out that I am SOL for the clicking fix lol.


Any thoughts?


Cheers,


Richard


PS. All this talk about aspect ratio setup from various sources just tells me I have a lot more work to do with regard to aspect ratio setups for various input sources hahaa.


Edit: What I have been doing so far is that if I get something that doesn't look right I switch to and use one of the alternate TV2, TV3 etc inputs and configure that till it looks right. Next time I cycle through the two and if it still does not look right I create the third. Some analysis of what I have been creating may show some opportunities for more efficient combinations and I guess another review of my Oppo 970 wouldn't hurt to be sure I am not adding bars or anything.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have D2 version 1.2 and have the clicks problem with the PS3 but it doesn't crash the scaler. It appears to be heat related because an external fan resolves the issue. However, it is somewhat strange since the clicks are present immediately on startup before either the PS3 or the D2 even warmed up. The D2 feels completely cool to the touch and yet the clicks still appear. Turning on the fan resolves the issue.
> 
> 
> Anthem support has not responded to my last 2 emails (July 17 and July23) so I assume they are not doing anything about this issue.
> 
> 
> Although I have a work around at the present time, I am convinced that my unit is not functioning properly and am hopeful that a resolution will be forthcoming.
> 
> 
> Randy



As of a week ago, Nick informed me that "the engineers" had my returned "clicking" unit in the lab and were duplicating the problem. I would assume that they want to understand the root cause of the problem before doing more swaps. I see in a later post of yours that they are swapping your unit, so maybe they have discovered the cause of the problem. If so it clearly isn't fixable with firmware or they wouldn't be swapping your unit. I will ask Nick.


----------



## PooperScooper

Rmarcoot,

Calling tech support is the way to go. I just called (Nick is not around) to find out the status of the "clicking situation" and start the RMA process if necessary. I'm kinda suprised the fan makes a difference since it happens right away.


larry


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legacyrocks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have an AVM 50. I am ready to buy a new Pioneer Kuro plasma. Not sure if I should pay the extra grand for the Elite model Pro-150FD with more video adjustments and better video processing or the PDP-6010FD which is not the Elite line and a grand cheaper. I will be using the AVM 50 for video switching/ processing so it might be a waste to pay extra for the Elite. Can anyone help me out? Do you think I will see a difference between the two?



If the extra calibration control is worth the extra grand to you then wait for the 150. I don't believe the video processing is any different and the AVM50 will be doing all the work anyway (or most of it). The 150 will probably be my next TV.


larry


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11320893
> 
> 
> Gerry,
> 
> If your display has a DVI input, then it most likely wants RGB Data Format. The "Auto" Data Format setting will often not work reliably with DVI displays. If your video is coming out "shocking pink" then go to Setup / Video Output / Data Format and explicitly select RGB (not Extended RGB).
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> ...
> 
> --Bob



I have had a significant number of instances where the RGB setting has "crumped" since 12s. It basically goes into posterization of colors, particularly when switching from Standard DVD to HD Tivo (on which SD video no longer plays). Even one or two power recycles doesn't work sometimes, so I need to go into the settings pick extended RGB, reboot, and then go back to regular RGB, and reboot. The dangers of beta software, but one more reason why I hope the lates rev is not THE production release.


Gerry, did you get your issue fixed?


Tim.


----------



## slots1

Tim and Bob

Yes, everything is working fine. I switched to regular RGB, no more pink on start up. By the way, I did not load on 1.2 that Nick had sent me. After Bob's advice I decided to wait to see if I had any problems that had to be solved with 1.2. So far you guys have solved the issues to date... Thanks.


Also, setup dvd2 to be for 4 x 3, just great.

I have still not heard from my salesperson to do the detail sound setup. Also, does anyone know an ISF person in the Chicago area in would align my Marantz S3. By the way I am sure looking forward to the reviews on the new (should be Cedia) 15s1 at about 10K list. About half the price of their current high end model.

Also, played my Canon hv-20 (hidef) video camera through the HDMI 2 and wow wow.

Also, listening to many old cd's, dvd-a and sacd. Just amazing sound.

Master and Commander is so great for sound and picture.

And I do not yet have hidef dvd or blue ray.

Gerry


----------



## umr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/11341927
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> I have still not heard from my salesperson to do the detail sound setup. Also, does anyone know an ISF person in the Chicago area in would align my Marantz S3. ...
> 
> Gerry



I will be in Chicago in December. More information on my services is available at www.accucalhd.com .


----------



## mr_fitz

Is there any way that when playing an sacd from an oppo 970 through the d2 that when skipping from one song to the next that it does not search for the signal each time. There is a 3 second delay before the sound kicks in when skipping songs, I assume do to the D2 doing an hdmi handshake each time.


Any help would be appreciated.


Thanks


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

John,

Make sure you have Setup / Source Setup / Auto Dig=NO set on that input.


It may also help to have Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater=NO set on that input.

--Bob


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11310367
> 
> 
> I'm curious about this, too. So far we've had one poster who had his Anthem swapped out, and that eliminated his clicks while using a PS3 source. We also have info that the problem of the PS3 causing the Anthem Scaler to crash and restart due to overheating (workaround = add an external fan) has been fixed with the V1.12s software.
> 
> 
> Any additional updates?
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I have 1.12s and my thermal drop outs are the same. They seem to happen around 95 degrees at the case of the D2. Putting a fan on top has helped with the dropouts but I hardly think that temp warrents the fan. It can also go beyond the stated temp on any other source and not dropout once.



The popping is another story, nothing I have tried will get rid of it. The D2 is on a seprate 20amp circuit by itself and it still remains. I have tried different HDMI cables, inputs on the D2, Different power cords and added a second fan due to an earlier post saying the fan seemed to cure this as well. I am out of options and I just get voicemail (without a call back) or a new guy that says they have talked to my dealer and are going to call them back. Two weeks have gone by without so much as a peep about resolving the issues or that they are trying to figure it out.



As they say, Rant off










Jeremy


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/11345923
> 
> 
> Bob, I have 1.12s and my thermal drop outs are the same. They seem to happen around 95 degrees at the case of the D2. Putting a fan on top has helped with the dropouts but I hardly think that temp warrents the fan. It can also go beyond the stated temp on any other source and not dropout once.
> 
> 
> 
> The popping is another story, nothing I have tried will get rid of it. The D2 is on a seprate 20amp circuit by itself and it still remains. I have tried different HDMI cables, inputs on the D2, Different power cords and added a second fan due to an earlier post saying the fan seemed to cure this as well. I am out of options and I just get voicemail (without a call back) or a new guy that says they have talked to my dealer and are going to call them back. Two weeks have gone by without so much as a peep about resolving the issues or that they are trying to figure it out.
> 
> 
> 
> As they say, Rant off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Jeremy-

I'm the poster who had the swap-out for my PS3-related popping/clicking. My last communication from Nick was on 8/10 where he said the engineers were duplicating the problem and wanted to know which BD titles exhibited the most problems. I pinged him again this weekend for an update on what they've learned.


Regarding the thermal issue and video drop-outs, 1.12s did not cure that for me. The swap-out unit did not seem to have the dropouts, but I've left the 120mm fan on top of the case anyway. Anthem has crammed a lot of electronics into that case, and to expect to get adequate cooling with convection alone is a stretch. They need to be fanless for their audiophile market where the D2 is up front, and there is no projector noise floor to hide the noise an internal D2 fan would create. My D2 is in a rack in the back of the theater, and any noise my "silent" 120mm fan creates is inaudible from the seats. I like the idea of the D2 running as cool as possible as heat is the leading cause of death for electronics. It's a well-known rule of thumb that every 10 degree C increase in die temp cuts the expected life of a silicon device in half. Plus temperature causes timing parameters to vary which can lead to misoperation which can appear as drop-outs, ticks, or any other mysterious, intermittent glitch. Adding the fan is a small price to pay to avoid all of that.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11342935
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> Make sure you have Setup / Source Setup / Auto Dig=NO set on that input.
> 
> 
> It may also help to have Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater=NO set on that input.
> 
> --Bob



Still nothing. It takes until 3 seconds into each song for the song to come through the speakers.(hdmi). I guess that's life with hdmi!











John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

John,

It should really not be necessary for the Oppo 970 to do a new handshake just because you have changed tracks on an SACD.


Now I have a vague memory that there were some problems with SACD track changes in the 970 early this year that were supposedly addressed in firmware upgrades from Oppo. I don't trust my memory on this, but you should probably check to see if there's a better Oppo software version you could use just in case.


Failing that, you should get in touch with Oppo and Anthem tech support. There may be something going on in the new Anthem software which is causing the Oppo to believe it needs to re-establish the HDMI connection.

--Bob


----------



## PaulT_BC

John,


As Bob said - this has been fixed in an Oppo firmware update for the 970.


Firmware Release

Latest Version: MVer: 05.00.01.07 Batch: 4A-0111

Category: Minor Update

Release Date: February 12, 2007


Summary of Changes in This Release:


* Super Audio CD (SACD) Gapless Playback

* Super Audio CD (SACD) Track Number Display

http://oppodigital.com/dv970hd/dv970hd_support.html 


FWIW I've been using the latest beta for the remote code change with no problems:


Beta Test Version: MVer: 05.00.01.07 Batch: 4A-0209

Release Date: February 13, 2007

Status: Public beta test. This release is still a beta test version, not an official release. Use it only if you would like to experiment with the new features and improvements. There is a chance of the new features and improvements not working properly. If that happens, please update your DVD player back to the previous official firmware release.


Summary of Changes in This Release:


* Super Audio CD (SACD) Track Number On-Screen Display

* Alternative Remote Control Code

* Noise Reduction


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/11336694
> 
> 
> If the extra calibration control is worth the extra grand to you then wait for the 150. I don't believe the video processing is any different and the AVM50 will be doing all the work anyway (or most of it). The 150 will probably be my next TV.
> 
> 
> larry



Just curious what exactly is the extra calibration control between the 150 and the 6010?


----------



## Ian_Currie

Regarding the Oppo 970, the handshake problem is not just with SACD. Even regular DVD will not play the first 3 seconds of:


1) a DVD menu

2) start of a movie


Sounds like the firmware was specific to SACD. I did try Bob's suggestions on making Auto Dig = NO and HDMI Repeater = FALSE to no avail.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ian, is it correct that this Oppo 970 problem is something you started seeing for the first time with the V1.12s (AKA V1.2) Anthem software?

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11359463
> 
> 
> Ian, is it correct that this Oppo 970 problem is something you started seeing for the first time with the V1.12s (AKA V1.2) Anthem software?
> 
> --Bob



I have this same issue with my Oppo 970, but I'm running 1.11e.


Anyone running an Oppo 970 via HDMI who does NOT experience a mute at the beginning of a CD or a DVD? If so, what firmware are you running on both the Oppo and the Anthem?


----------



## Joe C5

I also have the "lost audio". I had not noticed since I rarely skip songs







. I took the same SACD and threw it in my PS3 to see if it cared. Not any delay there. Therefore, it's probably just yet another Oppo issue that won't get fixed







. I tried to get them to fix the issue with some of the old DVD based high res audio, and they begged off on that (everything else I have plays them correctly). Fortunatly that bug does have a work-around. (latest Oppo firmware - 1.12s on the D2).


----------



## mr_fitz

I had factory installed on my Oppo 970 version 4A-0111 and my D2 has version 1.2. When skipping song to song on sacd it still takes 3 seconds for the sound to kick in and for the D2 to make a connection with the Oppo. I will try a cd and see if the same results.


John


----------



## Djoel

I can't seem to find the answer on this thread, but please excuse me if this has been address already. Is the room eq software upgrade only for the D2, and not for the AVM 50?



Djoel


----------



## kal

Djoel: Only for the D2. The AVM50 today does not have the processing power required to do parametric equalization. The D2 has an extra processor pretty much sitting idle so adding parametric EQ is simply a software upgrade (and you need a special mic too of course during the actual measurements).


Doesn't mean that AVM50 hardware upgrades can't be offered in the future however.


Kal


----------



## Djoel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/11364795
> 
> 
> Djoel: Only for the D2. The AVM50 today does not have the processing power required to do parametric equalization. The D2 has an extra processor pretty much sitting idle so adding parametric EQ is simply a software upgrade (and you need a special mic too of course during the actual measurements).
> 
> 
> Doesn't mean that AVM50 hardware upgrades can't be offered in the future however.
> 
> 
> Kal



Thanks kal, my dealer had mention something along those lines...I just refused to believe...


Djoel


----------



## rudolpht

Off topic.

Hank,

Just saw the VPL-VW60 is coming out on my birthday, 20 Sep, makes me think....


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/11364795
> 
> 
> Djoel: Only for the D2. The AVM50 today does not have the processing power required to do parametric equalization. The D2 has an extra processor pretty much sitting idle so adding parametric EQ is simply a software upgrade (and you need a special mic too of course during the actual measurements).
> 
> 
> Doesn't mean that AVM50 hardware upgrades can't be offered in the future however.
> 
> 
> Kal



Kal,


I know you are geographically close to the source







, but what tells you authoritatively that the extra horsepower is required, as the parametric EQ does not require any processing during run time????? I think people advising other on getting one model vs another should have facts vs conjecture.


It may be a marketing ploy to only allow the feature + 300-1000 mike for a D2, but I don't see the engineering reason. The AVM-50 could likely run the DSP for Parametric EQ 10x over. Hopefully there will be an announcement at CEDIA to enlighten us.


----------



## mr_fitz

Someone please help. I'm at my wits end. I've been troubleshooting for 5 hours.


I just got a new sony BD-PS300 blu ray player to hook up to my D2. I also have an Oppo 970 hooked up with hdmi to the D2 and it works perfectly fine. I unplugged the hdmi from the back of the Oppo and plugged it into the new BD and there is no sound! Not for BD, not for dvd and not for cd playback. I know the cable is fine as it worked for the oppo. Should the settings inside the D2 be any different for the oppo versus the BD player?


I hooked up the BD player to my 32" sony lcd directly with the same hdmi cable and picture and sound worked on the tv.


The weird part is that when I am playing a BD and I push the select button for the D2 it shows the proper video input resolution with 6 ch 48 kHz with all the speakers on the input side showing and on the output side it shows all the speakers and at 24/192. Why no sound??


D2 is version 1.2


Again please help.


Thanks


John


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11367062
> 
> 
> Kal,
> 
> 
> I know you are geographically close to the source
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but what tells you authoritatively that the extra horsepower is required, as the parametric EQ does not require any processing during run time????? I think people advising other on getting one model vs another should have facts vs conjecture.
> 
> 
> It may be a marketing ploy to only allow the feature + 300-1000 mike for a D2, but I don't see the engineering reason. The AVM-50 could likely run the DSP for Parametric EQ 10x over. Hopefully there will be an announcement at CEDIA to enlighten us.




I talked to my paradigm/anthem rep the other day and he said to me that the calibration will only be available for the D2, it should cost $300-$400 for the mic and you will also need to use a computer or laptap during the calibration. This does not mean it is 100% certain but he is my rep. Months ago both Frank and Nick at Athem told me the exact same information.


John


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/11353560
> 
> 
> Just curious what exactly is the extra calibration control between the 150 and the 6010?



Go over to the plasma forum.


larry


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11367062
> 
> 
> Kal,
> 
> 
> I know you are geographically close to the source
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but what tells you authoritatively that the extra horsepower is required, as the parametric EQ does not require any processing during run time????? I think people advising other on getting one model vs another should have facts vs conjecture.
> 
> 
> It may be a marketing ploy to only allow the feature + 300-1000 mike for a D2, but I don't see the engineering reason. The AVM-50 could likely run the DSP for Parametric EQ 10x over. Hopefully there will be an announcement at CEDIA to enlighten us.



Kal is right. The D2 has another DSP at its disposal (one of the reasons it has DTS 96/24 and the 50 does not) and that is required for the EQ system they plan on using. It is not a marketing ploy, Peter (their head engineer) is very straight forward about these things and doesn't play the marketing game.


Anthem has said from the very start that having a dual DSP core in the D1/D2 would have its advantages as that adds a lot more processing power.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11367085
> 
> 
> Someone please help. I'm at my wits end. I've been troubleshooting for 5 hours.
> 
> 
> I just got a new sony BD-PS300 blu ray player to hook up to my D2. I also have an Oppo 970 hooked up with hdmi to the D2 and it works perfectly fine. I unplugged the hdmi from the back of the Oppo and plugged it into the new BD and there is no sound! Not for BD, not for dvd and not for cd playback. I know the cable is fine as it worked for the oppo. Should the settings inside the D2 be any different for the oppo versus the BD player?
> 
> 
> I hooked up the BD player to my 32" sony lcd directly with the same hdmi cable and picture and sound worked on the tv.
> 
> 
> The weird part is that when I am playing a BD and I push the select button for the D2 it shows the proper video input resolution with 6 ch 48 kHz with all the speakers on the input side showing and on the output side it shows all the speakers and at 24/192. Why no sound??
> 
> 
> D2 is version 1.2
> 
> 
> Again please help.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



I don't have a BD player yet, but my first troubleshooting step would be to make sure the BD layer is set to output audio over HDMI.


(The reason I say this is that I updated the firmware on my Oppo 970 last night, and when it was done I had no audio OR video! I thought I had somehow toasted it. I couldn't go into setup since there was no video output. Then I remembered the HDMI button on the remote. One press and voila! video and audio over HDMI were enabled.)


Maybe the BD player does not enable HDMI audio by default. The whole idea of using HDMI for both signals is still not mainstream.


----------



## Djoel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11367040
> 
> 
> Off topic.
> 
> Hank,
> 
> Just saw the VPL-VW60 is coming out on my birthday, 20 Sep, makes me think....




No nicknames yet?


DJoel


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/11367646
> 
> 
> Go over to the plasma forum.
> 
> 
> larry



Thanks for pointing me to the exact location. ;-)


Jim


----------



## jayray

Just played an HD DVD with DTS-ES 6.1 and could not get the AVM 50 to display this format. Sound was coming from all speakers but flipping through the sound menus, I couldn't find DTS-ES. Any suggestions?

thanks,

John


----------



## Bperry

I'm having problems with the D2 (v1.12) and 970 combination. The picture jutters throughout and then at some point locks up. The only fix is to unplug the oppo to unlock. The Oppo is set to 480i which the D2 reconizes. The D2 is set to 1080p/24 hz output over an ultralink cable to a JVC RS1. Any thoughts?

Bryan


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/11372918
> 
> 
> Just played an HD DVD with DTS-ES 6.1 and could not get the AVM 50 to display this format. Sound was coming from all speakers but flipping through the sound menus, I couldn't find DTS-ES. Any suggestions?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



All I can say is it WORKED for me.


I just played my first movie with DT-ES 6.1 - NO PROBLEMS.

I didn't do anything special - but I saw that displayed in my

D2's display.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/11369132
> 
> 
> I don't have a BD player yet, but my first troubleshooting step would be to make sure the BD layer is set to output audio over HDMI.
> 
> 
> (The reason I say this is that I updated the firmware on my Oppo 970 last night, and when it was done I had no audio OR video! I thought I had somehow toasted it. I couldn't go into setup since there was no video output. Then I remembered the HDMI button on the remote. One press and voila! video and audio over HDMI were enabled.)
> 
> 
> Maybe the BD player does not enable HDMI audio by default. The whole idea of using HDMI for both signals is still not mainstream.



Thanks for the help but yes I verified that the sound output over hdmi is working through my 32" sony lcd tv. I also have the same BD player in my store set up the same way to a denon receiver and it works fine.


I'm going to bring my player in to my store to make sure it works with the denon to make sure it is something to do with the anthem.


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11373690
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help but yes I verified that the sound output over hdmi is working through my 32" sony lcd tv. I also have the same BD player in my store set up the same way to a denon receiver and it works fine.
> 
> 
> I'm going to bring my player in to my store to make sure it works with the denon to make sure it is something to do with the anthem.



Myself and others had handshaking issues with the Sony 300 and AVM-50 / D-2. I e mailed Nick and called Sony Tech Support. Bottom line was that Sony stated the 300 is not compatible with AV processors. Someone on this thread found a workaround for this problem, but it wasn't something I was willing to put up with. Traded the Sony for the Panny 10A.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11367085
> 
> 
> Someone please help. I'm at my wits end. I've been troubleshooting for 5 hours.
> 
> 
> I just got a new sony BD-PS300 blu ray player to hook up to my D2. I also have an Oppo 970 hooked up with hdmi to the D2 and it works perfectly fine. I unplugged the hdmi from the back of the Oppo and plugged it into the new BD and there is no sound! Not for BD, not for dvd and not for cd playback. I know the cable is fine as it worked for the oppo. Should the settings inside the D2 be any different for the oppo versus the BD player? ...



Well, I have almost the same configuration that you have Sony BDP-S301 + Anthem D2 and I have been told in one of the thread that it is a bug in the Sony HDMI handshake. You have to wait that it is fully powered up before you tell the D2 to switch to it. And it does not always work, in which case I have to power the BDP-S300 up while it is attached to my TV, then disconnect the HDMI to connect it to the D2.


The Sony player seems to shutdown its HDMI when it detect something that it does not like even with non protected content as old CD audio. And you have to do silly thing like power up you TV to just listen to music.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/11375841
> 
> 
> Well, I have almost the same configuration that you have Sony BDP-S301 + Anthem D2 and I have been told in one of the thread that it is a bug in the Sony HDMI handshake. You have to wait that it is fully powered up before you tell the D2 to switch to it. And it does not always work, in which case I have to power the BDP-S300 up while it is attached to my TV, then disconnect the HDMI to connect it to the D2.
> 
> 
> The Sony player seems to shutdown its HDMI when it detect something that it does not like even with non protected content as old CD audio. And you have to do silly thing like power up you TV to just listen to music.



It is a BUG in the Sony HDMI handshake.


Pioneer fixes their bugs. SONY just says we do not support

an AVR in the chain. *ajeruns* DID the right thing. He

sent his SONY packing.


----------



## bluemark81

I have been experimenting with connections on my sysytem and found something rather peculiar. First, to let you know what I am running; I have a AVM-50 and I am running a Rotel RCD-1072 CD player (CDP) through it. From the Anthem, I am running through a Simaudio Titan amp powering Paradigm Sig S2 V2 speakers and a Velodyne DD-15 sub.


What I was attemting to do is figure out whether or not I wanted to use the A/D converter of the Anthem or the Rotel. I may get some flack from others for the following comment, but I firmly believe that there is no difference or very little difference in sound between CDPs if you use the same A/D converter. I have tried several CDPs from cheap $200 models to $2000 models and have found no difference when using their digital outs and letting the Anthems A/D converters do the conversion. Where I have noticed a significant difference is when you use a different A/D converter, such as using analog outs on the CDPs and relying on the A/D converters of the CDP itself. That being said, I was trying to decide whether I preferred the sound of the A/D converters of the Anthem or the Rotel.


1. Does anyone else have a similar setup? What are you using/prefer?

2. When using Analog-direct on the Anthem, I am using the A/D converter of the Rotel, but I don't get to use my sub. If I set the Anthem to Analog-DSP, it will use the sub, but it is also uses the A/D converter of the Anthem. Does anyone know how to use the A/D converter of the CDP and still be able to use the sub?

3. Now for my peculiar finding. When in my source setup of the Anthem for the CDP and scrolling through my audio-in settings of screen 5a(g), not only am I getting audio feed from my CDP when set to Anlg-Dir, if I set it to the following settings, I am also getting audio from my CDP. (Anlg-DSP, which I should, but the following also has CDP outputs: Dig AES/EBU; Dig Coax DVD; Dig Coax CD; Dig CoaxTape; Dig Coax TV; Dig Coax SAT; Dig Coax VCR and Dig Coax AUX) Why am I getting signal from my CDP on all these settings when most of these have nothing connected to them. I have my CDP connected to the analog audio in for CD on the Anthem.


Thanks,


----------



## metallicafreak

Break open the incubators, the D2 has arived at my house today!

FREAK!


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/11376066
> 
> 
> I have been experimenting with connections on my sysytem and found something rather peculiar. First, to let you know what I am running; I have a AVM-50 and I am running a Rotel RCD-1072 CD player (CDP) through it. From the Anthem, I am running through a Simaudio Titan amp powering Paradigm Sig S2 V2 speakers and a Velodyne DD-15 sub.
> 
> 
> What I was attemting to do is figure out whether or not I wanted to use the A/D converter of the Anthem or the Rotel. I may get some flack from others for the following comment, but I firmly believe that there is no difference or very little difference in sound between CDPs if you use the same A/D converter. I have tried several CDPs from cheap $200 models to $2000 models and have found no difference when using their digital outs and letting the Anthems A/D converters do the conversion. Where I have noticed a significant difference is when you use a different A/D converter, such as using analog outs on the CDPs and relying on the A/D converters of the CDP itself. That being said, I was trying to decide whether I preferred the sound of the A/D converters of the Anthem or the Rotel.
> 
> 
> 1. Does anyone else have a similar setup? What are you using/prefer?
> 
> 2. When using Analog-direct on the Anthem, I am using the A/D converter of the Rotel, but I don't get to use my sub. If I set the Anthem to Analog-DSP, it will use the sub, but it is also uses the A/D converter of the Anthem. Does anyone know how to use the A/D converter of the CDP and still be able to use the sub?
> 
> 3. Now for my peculiar finding. When in my source setup of the Anthem for the CDP and scrolling through my audio-in settings of screen 5a(g), not only am I getting audio feed from my CDP when set to Anlg-Dir, if I set it to the following settings, I am also getting audio from my CDP. (Anlg-DSP, which I should, but the following also has CDP outputs: Dig AES/EBU; Dig Coax DVD; Dig Coax CD; Dig CoaxTape; Dig Coax TV; Dig Coax SAT; Dig Coax VCR and Dig Coax AUX) Why am I getting signal from my CDP on all these settings when most of these have nothing connected to them. I have my CDP connected to the analog audio in for CD on the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



Bluemark,


Your thesis is not surprising at all actually. By the way, you are using the term A/D when you really mean D/A...but that's no sweat at all. Yeah, so, I happen to be a former owner of a Rotel RCD-1072 and it is, for the money, one of the best values in high end audio today IMHO. Great CD transport, I used its Digital Out to the D2 for D/A conversion by the D2 and it was very very good. I have since sold my 1072 and bought a Meridian G08 upsampling CD player. With this player, I use its own DAC and output 2-channel Balanced Outputs to the D2, which is set for Analog Direct of course for the "2-channel" input. The sound is nothing short of spectacular. I get an absolute black, quiet noise floor and purity of tone and proper pace that I have to attribute to the unique DAC design in the G08. If you go for piano at all, or female vocals, including jazz and classical, it's an absolute treat. The 1072 is no slouch and the DACs in it aren't bad at all, in fact, quite amazing actually.


As for using a sub with 2-channel recorded music, after many attempts and honest desires to like the result, I have to say I don't do it at all. I prefer to let my 2-channel audio come in "sub-free" to my B&W 703's. And I should say I absolutely LOVE my sub (the B&W ASW750), but after trying many different crossover points and sub involvement in 2-channel audio sources, I have opted to keep it quiet during 2-channel music listening. 5.1 sources like DVD-Audio, DTS CD and SACD are a whole different story, and I enjoy the uniqueness of these mixes very much.


I'm sure I will get the obligatory "i'm crazy" comments from some here, but I just know what my ears tell me, having played live music most of my life.


As for your other questions, I think I've sufficiently addressed #1, #2 would be a "No, I don't, and I don't see where or why this would be desired at all" and I have no idea why on #3. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.


-Brian


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *metallicafreak* /forum/post/11377424
> 
> 
> Break open the incubators, the D2 has arived at my house today!
> 
> FREAK!


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/11375766
> 
> 
> Myself and others had handshaking issues with the Sony 300 and AVM-50 / D-2. I e mailed Nick and called Sony Tech Support. Bottom line was that Sony stated the 300 is not compatible with AV processors. Someone on this thread found a workaround for this problem, but it wasn't something I was willing to put up with. Traded the Sony for the Panny 10A.



It works fine hooked up to a Denon AVR4306 at my work. Hooked up with hdmi and outputting 5.1 LPCM uncompressed audio.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11375939
> 
> 
> It is a BUG in the Sony HDMI handshake.
> 
> 
> Pioneer fixes their bugs. SONY just says we do not support
> 
> an AVR in the chain. *ajeruns* DID the right thing. He
> 
> sent his SONY packing.



Does the PS3 have this problem or not?


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/11346071
> 
> 
> I'm the poster who had the swap-out for my PS3-related popping/clicking. My last communication from Nick was on 8/10 where he said the engineers were duplicating the problem and wanted to know which BD titles exhibited the most problems. I pinged him again this weekend for an update on what they've learned.



Well, I heard back from Nick today on the results of their post mortem of my D2. He said that my ticking noise problem was caused by a bad part (a regulator - no more details). He also said that another unit returned for a ticking noise problem was determined to have a defective ribbon cable. So... no pattern, no design tolerance issue.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/11375841
> 
> 
> Well, I have almost the same configuration that you have Sony BDP-S301 + Anthem D2 and I have been told in one of the thread that it is a bug in the Sony HDMI handshake. You have to wait that it is fully powered up before you tell the D2 to switch to it. And it does not always work, in which case I have to power the BDP-S300 up while it is attached to my TV, then disconnect the HDMI to connect it to the D2.
> 
> 
> The Sony player seems to shutdown its HDMI when it detect something that it does not like even with non protected content as old CD audio. And you have to do silly thing like power up you TV to just listen to music.



The hdmi light on the sony lights up though?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/11368651
> 
> 
> Kal is right. The D2 has another DSP at its disposal (one of the reasons it has DTS 96/24 and the 50 does not) and that is required for the EQ system they plan on using. It is not a marketing ploy, Peter (their head engineer) is very straight forward about these things and doesn't play the marketing game.
> 
> 
> Anthem has said from the very start that having a dual DSP core in the D1/D2 would have its advantages as that adds a lot more processing power.



Kris,


Respectfully, and I respect you a great deal, that makes little sense to me. 96/24 does run at run time, so I can see it, even if it runs on many lesser DSPs. Parametric EQ does not, aside from mapping at run time, require any significant overhead. This is why very low end receivers can have very sophisticated parametric EQ. One is typically not watching a movie while using a PC to calculate curves.


I have great faith in Anthem, and if there is an engineering reason why this is true I would believe the explanation most likely. Right now there has not been significant direct communication or rationale, even third hand. 2K additional price premium + mic for a capability built into most low end pre-amps is not quite the cost performance bargain some expect. Some very respected audio engineers have done incredibly good para-EQ with much less the power of the AVM-50 to extraordinary ends, primarily because the processing power is not required at run time.


I fully expected to upgrade to a D3 the minute it was released fully knowing that the tech support and know-how is there to make it better. If am left only with question marks on this topic. Granted D2 users should get something more for the significant price premium, but that is a business case not a technical case.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/11377507
> 
> 
> Bluemark,
> 
> 
> Your thesis is not surprising at all actually. By the way, you are using the term A/D when you really mean D/A...but that's no sweat at all. Yeah, so, I happen to be a former owner of a Rotel RCD-1072 and it is, for the money, one of the best values in high end audio today IMHO. Great CD transport, I used its Digital Out to the D2 for D/A conversion by the D2 and it was very very good. I have since sold my 1072 and bought a Meridian G08 upsampling CD player. With this player, I use its own DAC and output 2-channel Balanced Outputs to the D2, which is set for Analog Direct of course for the "2-channel" input. The sound is nothing short of spectacular. I get an absolute black, quiet noise floor and purity of tone and proper pace that I have to attribute to the unique DAC design in the G08. If you go for piano at all, or female vocals, including jazz and classical, it's an absolute treat. The 1072 is no slouch and the DACs in it aren't bad at all, in fact, quite amazing actually.
> 
> 
> As for using a sub with 2-channel recorded music, after many attempts and honest desires to like the result, I have to say I don't do it at all. I prefer to let my 2-channel audio come in "sub-free" to my B&W 703's. And I should say I absolutely LOVE my sub (the B&W ASW750), but after trying many different crossover points and sub involvement in 2-channel audio sources, I have opted to keep it quiet during 2-channel music listening. 5.1 sources like DVD-Audio, DTS CD and SACD are a whole different story, and I enjoy the uniqueness of these mixes very much.
> 
> 
> I'm sure I will get the obligatory "i'm crazy" comments from some here, but I just know what my ears tell me, having played live music most of my life.
> 
> 
> As for your other questions, I think I've sufficiently addressed #1, #2 would be a "No, I don't, and I don't see where or why this would be desired at all" and I have no idea why on #3. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Brian:


Thanks for your comments......I did mean D/A and not A/D. Your comments actually brings up another question I meant to ask since you mention the 2-ch setting on the Anthem.


I know there are balanced inputs on the Anthem for 2-ch, but if I change the audio in setting in screen 5b(g) to, for example, Dig Coax CD and run a dig coax between the Rotel and Anthem, does screen 7d ADC/Audio output for 2-ch Anlg-DSP Fs rate have any bearing or would I have to use balanced outputs to use this feature?


If it does, what should I set the sampling rate at?


----------



## slots1

Everything is running perfectly except....

Cannot get the set up right for an old vcr through composite. The sound is coming thru fine, but just a blue screen.

Tivo, Canon HiDef video camera, DVD, all fine pic but no pic on the vcr. what settings??

I am going to have my Marantz S3 ISF'ed in a couple of weeks and my sound tweeked.

Gerry


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/11377987
> 
> 
> Brian:
> 
> 
> Thanks for your comments......I did mean D/A and not A/D. Your comments actually brings up another question I meant to ask since you mention the 2-ch setting on the Anthem.
> 
> 
> I know there are balanced inputs on the Anthem for 2-ch, but if I change the audio in setting in screen 5b(g) to, for example, Dig Coax CD and run a dig coax between the Rotel and Anthem, does screen 7d ADC/Audio output for 2-ch Anlg-DSP Fs rate have any bearing or would I have to use balanced outputs to use this feature?
> 
> 
> If it does, what should I set the sampling rate at?



I would leave the 2-ch Anlg-DSP setting to 44.1kHz. The sampling frequency (Fs) setting only comes into play for a source that is using the Analog-DSP processing and copied to the Record Zone. It essentially tells the D2 what bit rate to send to the Digital1 out. Keep in mind most, if not all, CD burners and such cannot handle a signal higher than 44.1kHz.


Hope this helps,

Brian


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11377539
> 
> 
> Does the PS3 have this problem or not?



I have the PS3 and it handshakes very nicely. Also a very nice SACD player.


----------



## mr_fitz

Does anyone have any problems with hdmi handshaking with the PS3 and the D2?


John


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11381265
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any problems with hdmi handshaking with the PS3 and the D2?



PS3 and D2 are working perfectly for me also. 1080p24 in and 1080p24 out to JVC HD-1.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/11372918
> 
> 
> Just played an HD DVD with DTS-ES 6.1 and could not get the AVM 50 to display this format. Sound was coming from all speakers but flipping through the sound menus, I couldn't find DTS-ES. Any suggestions?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



Do you have your HD-DVD player set to send the DTS-ES 6.1 "bitstream" to the Anthem?


The audio Modes that are available depend not only upon the incoming audio format, but also on whether or not you have Rear Surround speakers configured and whether or not you have THX post processing engaged.


If you actually have Rear Surround speakers configured, my guess would be that you have THX post processing turned on.


Press the THX button on the remote and then either the Up or Down arrow to toggle THX off. Then see if the Mode doesn't show up for you.


---------------------------------------------------


However, for an HD-DVD you probably don't WANT to be playing a DTS-ES 6.1 bitstream into the Anthem anyway. For best audio, you should set the HD-DVD player to send 5.1 channel high bandwidth PCM over the HDMI cable (i.e., play a "lossless" track). Then let the Anthem process that up to 7.1 speaker output if you have Rear Surround speakers. That will show up as 6 channel PCM in the Anthem status display.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11362781
> 
> 
> I had factory installed on my Oppo 970 version 4A-0111 and my D2 has version 1.2. When skipping song to song on sacd it still takes 3 seconds for the sound to kick in and for the D2 to make a connection with the Oppo. I will try a cd and see if the same results.
> 
> 
> John



Well that's certainly annoying! I haven't been following the Oppo related threads, but I'm surprised we haven't had more complaints about this here. There's no good reason why changing tracks should cause a new HDMI handshake. There might be a VERY BRIEF mute delay as the audio format changes, but not a full HDMI re-handshake.


Check Setup / Source Setup in the Anthem for that input and make sure you don't have Muting set to Max by any chance.


I suggest you contact both Oppo and Anthem tech support. I believe the two of them have a good working relationship. This ought to be fixable. My guess is the problem is on the Oppo side.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bperry* /forum/post/11372999
> 
> 
> I'm having problems with the D2 (v1.12) and 970 combination. The picture jutters throughout and then at some point locks up. The only fix is to unplug the oppo to unlock. The Oppo is set to 480i which the D2 reconizes. The D2 is set to 1080p/24 hz output over an ultralink cable to a JVC RS1. Any thoughts?
> 
> Bryan



480i/60Hz input to 1080p/24Hz output conversion is not working correctly yet, even with the latest Anthem software. That explains the severe Jutter you are seeing. However it shouldn't lock things up.


You should change your Setup / Video Output to 1080p/60Hz unless you are using a 1080p/24Hz input source.


Some, but not all, folks have also reported success with 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion from HD-DVD and Blu-Ray sources (but not from upconverting standard DVD or TV sources).


I have hopes that Anthem will have 480i/60 to 1080p/24 working properly in their next significant software upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/11376066
> 
> 
> I have been experimenting with connections on my sysytem and found something rather peculiar. First, to let you know what I am running; I have a AVM-50 and I am running a Rotel RCD-1072 CD player (CDP) through it. From the Anthem, I am running through a Simaudio Titan amp powering Paradigm Sig S2 V2 speakers and a Velodyne DD-15 sub.
> 
> 
> What I was attemting to do is figure out whether or not I wanted to use the A/D converter of the Anthem or the Rotel. I may get some flack from others for the following comment, but I firmly believe that there is no difference or very little difference in sound between CDPs if you use the same A/D converter. I have tried several CDPs from cheap $200 models to $2000 models and have found no difference when using their digital outs and letting the Anthems A/D converters do the conversion. Where I have noticed a significant difference is when you use a different A/D converter, such as using analog outs on the CDPs and relying on the A/D converters of the CDP itself. That being said, I was trying to decide whether I preferred the sound of the A/D converters of the Anthem or the Rotel.
> 
> 
> 1. Does anyone else have a similar setup? What are you using/prefer?
> 
> 2. When using Analog-direct on the Anthem, I am using the A/D converter of the Rotel, but I don't get to use my sub. If I set the Anthem to Analog-DSP, it will use the sub, but it is also uses the A/D converter of the Anthem. Does anyone know how to use the A/D converter of the CDP and still be able to use the sub?
> 
> 3. Now for my peculiar finding. When in my source setup of the Anthem for the CDP and scrolling through my audio-in settings of screen 5a(g), not only am I getting audio feed from my CDP when set to Anlg-Dir, if I set it to the following settings, I am also getting audio from my CDP. (Anlg-DSP, which I should, but the following also has CDP outputs: Dig AES/EBU; Dig Coax DVD; Dig Coax CD; Dig CoaxTape; Dig Coax TV; Dig Coax SAT; Dig Coax VCR and Dig Coax AUX) Why am I getting signal from my CDP on all these settings when most of these have nothing connected to them. I have my CDP connected to the analog audio in for CD on the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



1) I haven't tried the Rotel, but I'll be surprised if you find you like it's DACs better than the ones in your Anthem. Nevetherless it's easy to experiment and hear for yourself.


2) In Analog-Direct mode there is no bass steering to the subwoofer. The only way to get output to the subwoofer from the Anthem is to use multi-channel analog outputs from the player and set up bass steering in the speaker configuration inside the player itself (so that bass is coming into the Anthem on the multi-channel analog LFE input), or to run an output of the Anthem (usually Front Left) THROUGH the subwoofer so that the sub can extract bass from it, and then from the subwoofer back to the Front Left input of your main amp.


3) The unexpected result you are hearing when you change digital audio inputs in the setup is likely because you have Setup / Source Setup / Auto Dig = ON set. With that set, when the selected digital input has no signal the Anthem automatically switches to using the analog stereo inputs instead.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *metallicafreak* /forum/post/11377424
> 
> 
> Break open the incubators, the D2 has arived at my house today!
> 
> FREAK!



Here ya go!







































--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11377531
> 
> 
> It works fine hooked up to a Denon AVR4306 at my work. Hooked up with hdmi and outputting 5.1 LPCM uncompressed audio.



As others have said, that particular Sony player has been problematic. But it should be possible to get it to work with the Anthem if you allow it to COMPLETELY power up BEFORE you select that HDMI input on the Anthem.


The problem appears to be that the Sony is doing something on it's HDMI output before it is really ready to handle the handshake from the Anthem.


However, if that doesn't fix it for you, there may be something more serious going on in the audio portion of that HDMI input.


I'm not really sure how best to go here. You might want to try a different Anthem input to see if you can get the audio.


But you should probably contact Anthem tech support and see what they suggest. You have already done all the things I would suggest to confirm the Sony itself is capable of putting out audio on that HDMI socket.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11377539
> 
> 
> Does the PS3 have this problem or not?



The problem DR HANKZ was referrring to happens with your Sony player and a particular Pioneer player. It does not happen with the PS3. Pioneer worked with Anthem and has now fixed their problem. Sony has washed their hands of it. There have been other problems reported from time to time with the PS3, but at least it seems to power up correctly.


However, if you've tried the workaround and are still not getting audio, then there may very well be something else going on here.


As stated, the workaround is to let the Sony player power up COMPLETELY while the Anthem is still set to a different input. THEN select that HDMI input on the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## brado32

Hi all, having fun with my new anthem avm50/sony perl


This is probably nothing, but I noticed that when I change channels on my DTV box, I get a blue screen for about a sec or so before the picture comes in.. is this just the anthem dealing with the diff resolutions?? The delay is usually longer when switching from hd channels to sd channels..


Just wondering if there is a setting I am missing to make this a little quicker/smoother??


thanks


-Brad


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/11377692
> 
> 
> Well, I heard back from Nick today on the results of their post mortem of my D2. He said that my ticking noise problem was caused by a bad part (a regulator - no more details). He also said that another unit returned for a ticking noise problem was determined to have a defective ribbon cable. So... no pattern, no design tolerance issue.



The bad news is that there's no easy software fix.


The good news is that Anthem is alerted to the problem and can add a listening test for it to the QC stuff in manufacturing.


The additional good news is that it is not a design margin/tolerance issue which means it is less likely to be lurking in Anthems in the field where folks have not yet tried a PS3.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/11379614
> 
> 
> Everything is running perfectly except....
> 
> Cannot get the set up right for an old vcr through composite. The sound is coming thru fine, but just a blue screen.
> 
> Tivo, Canon HiDef video camera, DVD, all fine pic but no pic on the vcr. what settings??
> 
> I am going to have my Marantz S3 ISF'ed in a couple of weeks and my sound tweeked.
> 
> Gerry



The Anthem does not digitize, scale, or convert Composite inputs. See Section 2.1 of the Manual.


That means you have to use the Anthem in "pass through" for Composite video sources: Run a Composite video output cable from the Anthem to your TV, and when you want to watch that source, select the input on the Anthem and ALSO select the Composite video input on your TV. The video will pass through the Anthem unprocessed.


However, you will probably be happier replacing your old VCR with one that has at least an S-video output so that the Anthem can do it's video processing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32* /forum/post/11383059
> 
> 
> Hi all, having fun with my new anthem avm50/sony perl
> 
> 
> This is probably nothing, but I noticed that when I change channels on my DTV box, I get a blue screen for about a sec or so before the picture comes in.. is this just the anthem dealing with the diff resolutions?? The delay is usually longer when switching from hd channels to sd channels..
> 
> 
> Just wondering if there is a setting I am missing to make this a little quicker/smoother??
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> -Brad



If you are connected via HDMI from that DTV box, then yes, what you are seeing is a redo of the HDMI handshake. This will be necessary each time the box changes output resolutions.


[If you are ALSO seeing it even though you are switching between two channels that are both SDTV or both HDTV at the same HDTV resolution (1080i vs 720p) then there may be a problem in the hardware in your DTV box.]


You can avoid this by setting your DTV box to always and only put out one resolution -- usually 1080i is what you would select. However, that will not produce best quality imaging if the incoming program is something other than 1080i.


Your box may let you change the output resolution manually. If so you can leave it at 1080i for casual viewing (for fewer handshakes) and then switch it manually to match the program coming in when you want to do some serious watching.


Or you can do what most of us here do and just live with the flicker when you change channels.


Or you can do what some of us here do and switch to using Component video (and optical audio) from the DTV box to the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11383259
> 
> 
> Or you can do what some of us here do and switch to using Component video (and optical audio) from the DTV box to the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob


*COMPONENT is the ONLY way to go.
*

WHY WASTE any HDMI port on the Anthem when you

don't need to. 1080i from a DVR does not require a

HDMI port.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Some Component source devices will "filter" their Component outputs. Others simply have cheap, badly engineered, digital to analog video output stages. With such devices you can certainly measure, if not so easily see, lesser image quality with Component.


The "filtering", by the way, is most commonly seen as a reduction in horizontal resolution. Easy to see with the right test charts.


-----------------------------------


In addition, it is more likely to be the case that the "best" video setup will be identical (or close to identical) for different HDMI source devices, whereas the "best" Component video setup is more likely to be significantly different between Component devices -- and is almost ALWAYS different between an HDMI device and a Component device.


If you are doing your own video calibration, and thus don't have signal generators but are relying on program content (e.g., test charts broadcast on some channels) for setting things up, you may find you can't get the same quality or range of test patterns through your cable/satellite set top box as you can from some other sources -- such as your DVD player with a calibration DVD. In that case, if you connect both of them via HDMI, it is more likely that the "best" setup results for your well-calibrated DVD player will ALSO work for your cable/satellite set top box (or very nearly so). Whereas if you hook up the set top box via Component, you will likely not have the luxury of using some other device's best setup settings as a good starting point.


------------------------------------------------


All that said, there's no reason why Component from a well engineered set top box SHOULDN'T be just as good as HDMI -- and without any HDMI handshake hassles. So it is certainly worth trying. If you find YOUR set top box produces a quality Component signal, without any gratuitous filtering, and you are able to calibrate it well enough to suit you, then sure, use Component.


Personally, I use HDMI from my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR. I find the Component output to be softer and with less natural color -- probably it is filtered.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11382671
> 
> 
> Well that's certainly annoying! I haven't been following the Oppo related threads, but I'm surprised we haven't had more complaints about this here. There's no good reason why changing tracks should cause a new HDMI handshake. There might be a VERY BRIEF mute delay as the audio format changes, but not a full HDMI re-handshake.
> 
> 
> Check Setup / Source Setup in the Anthem for that input and make sure you don't have Muting set to Max by any chance.
> 
> 
> I suggest you contact both Oppo and Anthem tech support. I believe the two of them have a good working relationship. This ought to be fixable. My guess is the problem is on the Oppo side.
> 
> --Bob



Muting is set to Med not Max. Only happens on SACD playback and not on Cd playback. It is always 3 seconds into the next song when the sound comes back on. The display of the D2 during the pause while skipping tracks disappears (bottom left-I think input audio format).


I wonder if this has anything to do with me not getting my BD player sound working?


John


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11382999
> 
> 
> As others have said, that particular Sony player has been problematic. But it should be possible to get it to work with the Anthem if you allow it to COMPLETELY power up BEFORE you select that HDMI input on the Anthem.
> 
> 
> The problem appears to be that the Sony is doing something on it's HDMI output before it is really ready to handle the handshake from the Anthem.
> 
> 
> However, if that doesn't fix it for you, there may be something more serious going on in the audio portion of that HDMI input.
> 
> 
> I'm not really sure how best to go here. You might want to try a different Anthem input to see if you can get the audio.
> 
> 
> But you should probably contact Anthem tech support and see what they suggest. You have already done all the things I would suggest to confirm the Sony itself is capable of putting out audio on that HDMI socket.
> 
> --Bob




I have allowed the Sony BD player to power up completely multiple times before switching to the input where the hdmi cable is hooked up and still there is no sound.


I have also tried different hdmi inputs on D2 to see if that was the problem but still no success.


I am going to borrow a PS3 tonight and see if that works. If it does then out the door goes the sony BD player.


John


----------



## ccotenj

current avm30 owner... need video switching, scaling, etc.


i've boiled down the choice (after considering going external for scaling) is to either do the avm30 to 50 upgrade, or to go directly to the d2... i really love my avm30 (and the d2 is even better), and see no reason to go away from anthem...


after much going back and forth, researching, reading (including all of this thread), the thing that is probably going to make the decision for me is the room eq...


so... the question is... is it really coming? and if so, is it anytime on the horizon?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The best rumor we have now is that Anthem is in the final push to show it at Cedia (around Sept 7). If they make it, it will probably be available right around the same time.


There is reason to believe a nearly ready version of it may actually already be in the V1.12s (AKA V1.2) software shipping now -- just not activated.


Aren't rumors fun?

--Bob


----------



## ccotenj

yea, they are fun... the "hoping they do what i want them to do" anticipation is almost as good as the "getting what i wanted" thrill...










i guess i can wait another few weeks and see what shakes out... but i want instant gratification!


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11382914
> 
> 
> 1) I haven't tried the Rotel, but I'll be surprised if you find you like it's DACs better than the ones in your Anthem. Nevetherless it's easy to experiment and hear for yourself.
> 
> 
> 2) In Analog-Direct mode there is no bass steering to the subwoofer. The only way to get output to the subwoofer from the Anthem is to use multi-channel analog outputs from the player and set up bass steering in the speaker configuration inside the player itself (so that bass is coming into the Anthem on the multi-channel analog LFE input), or to run an output of the Anthem (usually Front Left) THROUGH the subwoofer so that the sub can extract bass from it, and then from the subwoofer back to the Front Left input of your main amp.
> 
> 
> 3) The unexpected result you are hearing when you change digital audio inputs in the setup is likely because you have Setup / Source Setup / Auto Dig = ON set. With that set, when the selected digital input has no signal the Anthem automatically switches to using the analog stereo inputs instead.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks. Regarding the audio feed on several inputs was a result of my Auto Dig set to On. I got a response from Nick at Anthem today stating the same.


You feel that the D/A converters in the Anthem are better than the Rotel's? I'll take your word for it, however, I never heard of the DAC's in the Anthem before actually getting the Anthem, but that means nothing at all.


I have another question regarding using analog-direct. In my speaker setup for music configuration, I am using advanced settings utilizing a 80 Hz x-over and 1 sub. Where I have analog-direct selected in my source setup, I am bypassing the Anthems DSP and therefore the sub, but are my speakers operating in full range or am I losing frequencies below the x-over point of 80 Hz?


How would you recommend I set my music configuration and audio input in the source setup?


Thanks,


----------



## Milt99

ccotenj,

The Anthem AutoCalibration\\EQ is a done deal.

It is going to happen and very soon.

Anthem would not have leaked the info if it wasn't imminent.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11387475
> 
> 
> I have allowed the Sony BD player to power up completely multiple times before switching to the input where the hdmi cable is hooked up and still there is no sound.
> 
> 
> I have also tried different hdmi inputs on D2 to see if that was the problem but still no success.
> 
> 
> I am going to borrow a PS3 tonight and see if that works. If it does then out the door goes the sony BD player.
> 
> 
> John



Well I hooked up a PS3 tonight and everything works like a charm. 5.1 LPCM is bloody fantastic. I couldn't believe how much extra detail there was! Stupid sony BD player. Stay away from sony BD player if you own an Anthem.


I don't suppose anyone knows how to get hdmi and component video out of the PS3 at the same time? Stupid no hdmi projector. The sound was so good that after I hooked up the PS3 and got it working properly that I ended up listening to an hour of the Fifth Element in uncompressed 5.1 with no picture just sound.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/11391602
> 
> 
> I have another question regarding using analog-direct. In my speaker setup for music configuration, I am using advanced settings utilizing a 80 Hz x-over and 1 sub. Where I have analog-direct selected in my source setup, I am bypassing the Anthems DSP and therefore the sub, but are my speakers operating in full range or am I losing frequencies below the x-over point of 80 Hz?
> 
> 
> How would you recommend I set my music configuration and audio input in the source setup?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



When you are Analog-Direct you basically have volume control (including relative speaker levels) and that's it.


All speaker configuration stuff (including cross overs) has to be done by the source device. Whatever frequencies come in on the input will pass through to the output.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/11392386
> 
> 
> ccotenj,
> 
> The Anthem AutoCalibration\\EQ is a done deal.
> 
> It is going to happen and very soon.
> 
> Anthem would not have leaked the info if it wasn't imminent.



I wish the leaks were:

1) authoritative, as in discoverable from THE source

2) accessible, directly

3) understandable, and complete with regard to details


In other words, NOT leaks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11392570
> 
> 
> Well I hooked up a PS3 tonight and everything works like a charm. 5.1 LPCM is bloody fantastic. I couldn't believe how much extra detail there was! Stupid sony BD player. Stay away from sony BD player if you own an Anthem.
> 
> 
> I don't suppose anyone knows how to get hdmi and component video out of the PS3 at the same time? Stupid no hdmi projector. The sound was so good that after I hooked up the PS3 and got it working properly that I ended up listening to an hour of the Fifth Element in uncompressed 5.1 with no picture just sound.
> 
> 
> John



Hang on! Am I to understand that you were trying to mix Component video (from the Sony player) with HDMI audio (also from the Sony player) because your projector only handles Component video input?


That can't work if the Anthem is asked to process the Component video input.


HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is multiplexed into the video. That means the Anthem has to "process" the HDMI video if you want the HDMI audio. But the Anthem can only process one video stream at a time. The upshot is that you can't mix HDMI Audio coming in on one cable with processed video from any other cable -- processed video with that HDMI Audio only works with the HDMI Video coming in on that same cable.


Now it *IS* possible to get HDMI Audio into the Anthem while sending UNprocessed Component video to your display. It involves using the Zone 2 component outputs. There's a post linked off the first post of this thread that details how to do it.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11392780
> 
> 
> Hang on! Am I to understand that you were trying to mix Component video (from the Sony player) with HDMI audio (also from the Sony player) because your projector only handles Component video input?
> 
> 
> That can't work if the Anthem is asked to process the Component video input.
> 
> 
> HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is multiplexed into the video. That means the Anthem has to "process" the HDMI video if you want the HDMI audio. But the Anthem can only process one video stream at a time. The upshot is that you can't mix HDMI Audio coming in on one cable with processed video from any other cable -- processed video with that HDMI Audio only works with the HDMI Video coming in on that same cable.
> 
> 
> Now it *IS* possible to get HDMI Audio into the Anthem while sending UNprocessed Component video to your display. It involves using the Zone 2 component outputs. There's a post linked off the first post of this thread that details how to do it.
> 
> --Bob




Bob,


I wasn't trying to process hdmi audio and component video at the same time. I had read your link before and knew that I would have to send unprocessed component video out through zone 2.


With the sony BD player I had the Anthem process the hdmi-1 input through the scaler like you outlined in one of your original posts and take component on input 2 then send the picture out through the zone 2 component outputs. It would send the component picture out properly through zone 2 to my projector but I never got sound in the main room. It took me a while after setting it up this way to realize that you need to turn on zone 2 and select the input you want for the picture to come through.


I hooked up the PS3 into the same configuration in my Anthem and voila fantastic 5.1 LPCM sound but no picture (but I've found out that is because the ps3 won't output hdmi and component at the same time).


Thanks for the help Bob.


John


----------



## radtheater

Hello, fellow D2ers. I am a lurker who finally has to ask for help. I am 3 months or so into my D2 joys and have hit a snag. If this has been answered, please accept my apologies, but I have searched this thread and the HTPC thread and haven't found the answer. I am trying to get my new Mac Mini to show correct colors through my D2 and projector. The pj is a Panny PT AE1000U, connected to the D2 by HDMI only. When the mac first booted into life connected to the D2 via a DVI-HDMI cable, it set up a color profile named Statment D2, automagically. However, the problem is, the colors are inverted. Looks like a photo negative, the blues are a sick orange yellow, and whites are black. I have tried to correct this via the computer and via the D2 by changing a number of settings, all to no avail.


I was going to order a DVI detective, but don't know if that will do the job or not. Haven't tried connecting the computer straight to pj, due to lack of the correct cables to do that.


Ideas?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radtheater* /forum/post/11394428
> 
> 
> Hello, fellow D2ers. I am a lurker who finally has to ask for help. I am 3 months or so into my D2 joys and have hit a snag. If this has been answered, please accept my apologies, but I have searched this thread and the HTPC thread and haven't found the answer. I am trying to get my new Mac Mini to show correct colors through my D2 and projector. The pj is a Panny PT AE1000U, connected to the D2 by HDMI only. When the mac first booted into life connected to the D2 via a DVI-HDMI cable, it set up a color profile named Statment D2, automagically. However, the problem is, the colors are inverted. Looks like a photo negative, the blues are a sick orange yellow, and whites are black. I have tried to correct this via the computer and via the D2 by changing a number of settings, all to no avail.
> 
> 
> I was going to order a DVI detective, but don't know if that will do the job or not. Haven't tried connecting the computer straight to pj, due to lack of the correct cables to do that.
> 
> 
> Ideas?



I DO NOT KNOW the ANSWER.


But I do remember others on this D2 thread talking

about this problem. I suggest you do more searching

on this thread.


----------



## radtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11394559
> 
> 
> I DO NOT KNOW the ANSWER.
> 
> 
> But I do remember others on this D2 thread talking
> 
> about this problem. I suggest you do more searching
> 
> on this thread.



Sorry, I really did try. Searched by (amongst others): Mac, Mac + HDMI, Mac + colors + inverted, Mac + DVI + HDMI......


This thread is great, but is quite large now and difficult to search. I am not one to post unnecessarily before doing my reading, (this is my first public post after reading for months). I have read lots of posts on the Mac mini and D2 but haven't seen one that addresses this issue....


Sorry to be a bother...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radtheater* /forum/post/11394679
> 
> 
> Sorry, I really did try. Searched by (amongst others): Mac, Mac + HDMI, Mac + colors + inverted, Mac + DVI + HDMI......
> 
> 
> This thread is great, but is quite large now and difficult to search. I am not one to post unnecessarily before doing my reading, (this is my first public post after reading for months). I have read lots of posts on the Mac mini and D2 but haven't seen one that addresses this issue....
> 
> 
> Sorry to be a bother...



You are right - it is long - but I remember seeing

it here somewhere. What others have done with

Long Threads is download the whole thread to

your Computer as a document WORD can read.

Word might have better search capabilities than

the forum.


----------



## radtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11394702
> 
> 
> You are right - it is long - but I remember seeing
> 
> it here somewhere. What others have done with
> 
> Long Threads is download the whole thread to
> 
> your Computer as a document WORD can read.
> 
> Word might have better search capabilities than
> 
> the forum.



Thanks for the replies, drhankz... Sounds like a good idea. However, call me stupid, but I can't seem to find how to download the entire thread. Thread tools will only give me 60 messages at a time (I will be here all day!).


Thanks for any assistance.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radtheater* /forum/post/11394918
> 
> 
> Thanks for the replies, drhankz... Sounds like a good idea. However, call me stupid, but I can't seem to find how to download the entire thread. Thread tools will only give me 60 messages at a time (I will be here all day!).
> 
> 
> Thanks for any assistance.



OK - you got me here now










There USE to BE a Simple way.


They totally updated the whole forum over the

weekend. This NEW VERSION does not seem to

have that NICE FEATURE.


I wonder where it went.


----------



## slots1

Bob

Thanks as usual. Of course, right in front of me on 2.1. I did have another vcr with S-video. Changed to it and bingo. As good a picture as you can get out of 480i.

Gerry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radtheater* /forum/post/11394428
> 
> 
> Hello, fellow D2ers. I am a lurker who finally has to ask for help. I am 3 months or so into my D2 joys and have hit a snag. If this has been answered, please accept my apologies, but I have searched this thread and the HTPC thread and haven't found the answer. I am trying to get my new Mac Mini to show correct colors through my D2 and projector. The pj is a Panny PT AE1000U, connected to the D2 by HDMI only. When the mac first booted into life connected to the D2 via a DVI-HDMI cable, it set up a color profile named Statment D2, automagically. However, the problem is, the colors are inverted. Looks like a photo negative, the blues are a sick orange yellow, and whites are black. I have tried to correct this via the computer and via the D2 by changing a number of settings, all to no avail.
> 
> 
> I was going to order a DVI detective, but don't know if that will do the job or not. Haven't tried connecting the computer straight to pj, due to lack of the correct cables to do that.
> 
> 
> Ideas?



I presume the output side of your D2 setup is still fine, right? By that, I meant that if you select a D2 input with no video on it, then the Setup screen and the Video Source Adjust menus (including the test bar patterns) all look correct? If so, then of course the problem is on the input side.


Unlike DRHANKZ, I don't recall any specific posts in here related to the MAC Mini. We did have some posts on AppleTV hookups, and problems with getting HDMI to work there, but that's not the same.


It is possible that the HDMI connection handshake failed. It is also possible that you have a bad cable.


With the Mini booted up (and thus you now have bad colors), try switching the Anthem to a different input and then back to the Mini to force a new handshake. Also try switching the Mini to a lower output resolution and also try manually selecting a different color profile than the Statement D2 profile it offered you.


If none of that helps, report the following:


* Version of D2 software you are using.


* Input and output video information (resolution and format) as shown in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel when you are seeing the bad colors.


Your first step for testing the cable will be to hook it up to an HDMI TV to see if you get usable colors. It doesn't have to be to your projector. Perhaps you can bring the Mini to your Home Theater dealer and hook it up to a TV in his shop. Or perhaps you have another HDMI TV in your house.

--Bob


----------



## radtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11396151
> 
> 
> I presume the output side of your D2 setup is still fine, right? By that, I meant that if you select a D2 input with no video on it, then the Setup screen and the Video Source Adjust menus (including the test bar patterns) all look correct? If so, then of course the problem is on the input side.
> 
> 
> Unlike DRHANKZ, I don't recall any specific posts in here related to the MAC Mini. We did have some posts on AppleTV hookups, and problems with getting HDMI to work there, but that's not the same.
> 
> 
> It is possible that the HDMI connection handshake failed. It is also possible that you have a bad cable.
> 
> 
> With the Mini booted up (and thus you now have bad colors), try switching the Anthem to a different input and then back to the Mini to force a new handshake. Also try switching the Mini to a lower output resolution and also try manually selecting a different color profile than the Statement D2 profile it offered you.
> 
> 
> If none of that helps, report the following:
> 
> 
> * Version of D2 software you are using.
> 
> 
> * Input and output video information (resolution and format) as shown in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel when you are seeing the bad colors.
> 
> 
> Your first step for testing the cable will be to hook it up to an HDMI TV to see if you get usable colors. It doesn't have to be to your projector. Perhaps you can bring the Mini to your Home Theater dealer and hook it up to a TV in his shop. Or perhaps you have another HDMI TV in your house.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. I will try to move the mac close to the projector and try bypassing the D2.


Output on all other sources (including 2 HDMI sources) is fine. Menus look fine. Test color bars look fine when Video Source Adjust is selected from that input.


I am on 1.1e.


I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the prompt advice.


By the way do YOU know how to download this entire thread? Can this be done from this forum?


--radtheater


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radtheater* /forum/post/11394428
> 
> 
> Hello, fellow D2ers. I am a lurker who finally has to ask for help. I am 3 months or so into my D2 joys and have hit a snag. If this has been answered, please accept my apologies, but I have searched this thread and the HTPC thread and haven't found the answer. I am trying to get my new Mac Mini to show correct colors through my D2 and projector. The pj is a Panny PT AE1000U, connected to the D2 by HDMI only. When the mac first booted into life connected to the D2 via a DVI-HDMI cable, it set up a color profile named Statment D2, automagically. However, the problem is, the colors are inverted. Looks like a photo negative, the blues are a sick orange yellow, and whites are black. I have tried to correct this via the computer and via the D2 by changing a number of settings, all to no avail.
> 
> 
> I was going to order a DVI detective, but don't know if that will do the job or not. Haven't tried connecting the computer straight to pj, due to lack of the correct cables to do that.
> 
> 
> Ideas?



Have you tried going in to the Source Video setup? Hold 7 on the remote for a few seconds to get in, and press Back to exit. Try fiddling with Picture: Input Color Space. Just a guess.


In answer to searching the thread, leave OUT the term "Mac." I think the problems you are experiencing are due to the DVI outputs that HTPCs generally have (which is why I won't use an HTPC until I can get one with an HDMI output). I don't recall anyone having a Mac-specific post, so that might negate your search results.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11396151
> 
> 
> Unlike DRHANKZ, I don't recall any specific posts in here related to the MAC Mini. We did have some posts on AppleTV hookups, and problems with getting HDMI to work there, but that's not the same.



I know they have different names - but I think any problem

with an AppleTV is the same as the MAC mini. Apple only has

one kind of DVI output on all MAC computers.


I know - I'm an APPLE user since 1984.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radtheater* /forum/post/11397765
> 
> 
> By the way do YOU know how to download this entire thread? Can this be done from this forum?
> 
> 
> --radtheater


*YA BOB* - it use to be OBVIOUS how to do that

before they updated the forum THIS WEEKEND.


I think that is a feature we LOST.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't know how to nab a copy of the entire thread. But if you ask the question in the Operations Center forum here, they are usually pretty quick to reply.


They did say that some features would be missing initially, and added back in as they moved along.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11399838
> 
> 
> I know they have different names - but I think any problem
> 
> with an AppleTV is the same as the MAC mini. Apple only has
> 
> one kind of DVI output on all MAC computers.
> 
> 
> I know - I'm an APPLE user since 1984.



The impression I got was that the AppleTV problems were pretty peculiar to that product.


My understanding is that the digital video output from that has been quite a problem for a lot of people -- the workaround being to switch to Component output.


But I can't recall any color inversion problem of the type described here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radtheater* /forum/post/11397765
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob. I will try to move the mac close to the projector and try bypassing the D2.
> 
> 
> Output on all other sources (including 2 HDMI sources) is fine. Menus look fine. Test color bars look fine when Video Source Adjust is selected from that input.
> 
> 
> I am on 1.1e.
> 
> 
> I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the prompt advice.
> 
> 
> By the way do YOU know how to download this entire thread? Can this be done from this forum?
> 
> 
> --radtheater



I presume you mean V1.11e on the version, right?


Don't forget to check and report what Video Source Adjust / Info is saying for video input and output. What it SHOULD be saying for output is whatever you set up in Setup / Video Output, and what it SHOULD be saying for input is the resolution you have set the Mini to produce in RGB data format (since it is a DVI output).

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> I wish the leaks were:
> 
> 1) authoritative, as in discoverable from THE source
> 
> 2) accessible, directly
> 
> 3) understandable, and complete with regard to details
> 
> In other words, NOT leaks



Oh doubting rudolpht









Both Nick & Frank plus Alain have talked about the EQ feature and given some pretty good specifics on it.

I have also heard from another impeccible source regarding it as well.

I don't think they're going to publish the manual until it's ready for release and the mics have been shipped to the dealers so if you need that level of confirmation then you will have to wait a bit longer.

It will make the D2 the most complete pre/pro available at any price.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11401670
> 
> 
> I don't know how to nab a copy of the entire thread. But if you ask the question in the Operations Center forum here, they are usually pretty quick to reply.
> 
> 
> They did say that some features would be missing initially, and added back in as they moved along.
> 
> --Bob



It use to be EXTREMELY Simple - even an OLD DUDE like

me could read the BUTTON to click. Now it is GONE.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11401699
> 
> 
> My understanding is that the digital video output from that has been quite a problem for a lot of people -- the workaround being to switch to Component output.
> 
> 
> --Bob



That was my solution. Happy camper.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/11403181
> 
> 
> It will make the D2 the most complete pre/pro available at any price.



Anthem must be doing SOMETHING right. They've spawned their very own hate thread here.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11403665
> 
> 
> Anthem must be doing SOMETHING right. They've spawned their very own hate thread here.
> 
> --Bob



WHAT ARE YOU DRINKING TONIGHT - Bob










I don't see any Anthem HATE thread


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/11403181
> 
> 
> Oh doubting rudolpht
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both Nick & Frank plus Alain have talked about the EQ feature and given some pretty good specifics on it.
> 
> I have also heard from another impeccible source regarding it as well.
> 
> I don't think they're going to publish the manual until it's ready for release and the mics have been shipped to the dealers so if you need that level of confirmation then you will have to wait a bit longer.
> 
> It will make the D2 the most complete pre/pro available at any price.



I know it's coming. I have faith that if it can work with the AVM-50 engineering wise they'll make it happen, lighter version or likely later. If not, I'm not going to regret my purchase, but with all the software problems I'll probably sell the AVM-50 and buy another manufacturers product as an interim product (still using Anthem Amps) and "check back when the D3 has 4x the processing power (still not needed for Parametric EQ







) 6 HDMI ins and 2 zones Concurrent HDMI out, and 7.1 PCM. I would rather pay forward to a next gen pre-pro than pay 2K for the privilege of buying a 400 microphone. I'll miss the Anthem in the interim, but c'est la vie.


----------



## audiman

I've just received my upgraded D2 (from a D1) a have a question on HDMI audio.


1- I've tried "Heart live from seattle" in true HD, and dont find the sound very dynamic. (from toshiba HD-a1) the sound from analog out to my previous theta CB3 + six shooter analog pre-amp was much more dynamic.


2- What should i see on the D2 display when a true hd track come in ? my sound mode is DPLII music (for a 7.1 setup) The sound output from the HD-A1is set to hdmi pcm.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/11403834
> 
> 
> I've just received my upgraded D2 (from a D1) a have a question on HDMI audio.
> 
> 
> 1- I've tried "Heart live from seattle" in true HD, and dont find the sound very dynamic. (from toshiba HD-a1) the sound from analog out to my previous theta CB3 + six shooter analog pre-amp was much more dynamic.
> 
> 
> 2- What should i see on the D2 display when a true hd track come in ? my sound mode is DPLII music (for a 7.1 setup) The sound output from the HD-A1is set to hdmi pcm.



I think for the Toshiba - you should have the

HDMI out set to AUTO.


For Blu-Ray players - it is the OPPOSITE.


Bottom Line - if the Toshiba and D2 are set properly

-- you should see 5.1 PCM in the D2 Display.


If the D2 is NOT SHOWING 5.1 PCM - Something is WRONG.


----------



## Milt99

I think perhaps the "hate" thread Bob is referring to is person who's had his D2 out for warranty service for too long.


> Quote:
> I know it's coming. I have faith that if it can work with the AVM-50 engineering wise they'll make it happen, lighter version or likely later. If not, I'm not going to regret my purchase, but with all the software problems I'll probably sell the AVM-50 and buy another manufacturers product as an interim product (still using Anthem Amps) and "check back when the D3 has 4x the processing power (still not needed for Parametric EQ ) 6 HDMI ins and 2 zones Concurrent HDMI out, and 7.1 PCM. I would rather pay forward to a next gen pre-pro than pay 2K for the privilege of buying a 400 microphone. I'll miss the Anthem in the interim, but c'est la vie.



It's your funeral









rudolpht, I think you may have a bit of a wait on the D3.

Whether or not you feel that the AVM50 is capable of supporting the EQ feature, I feel it's not going to happen.

While I do understand your frustration on the software front, many highly regarded companies have tried to implement a high-end processor and have given up.

The rarified air includes Theta, Lexicon, Halcro and the overlooked ADA.

The irony here is that some receivers boast feature sets that rival and surpass most pre/pros for a fraction of the price.

What you won't get is the level of support that Anthem provides and of course das sound.

FWIW, I do respect your POV and understand your decision.

Within my current system I have not encountered any of the frustrating issues that some have so it is an easy non-decision for me.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11382590
> 
> 
> Do you have your HD-DVD player set to send the DTS-ES 6.1 "bitstream" to the Anthem?
> 
> 
> The audio Modes that are available depend not only upon the incoming audio format, but also on whether or not you have Rear Surround speakers configured and whether or not you have THX post processing engaged.
> 
> 
> If you actually have Rear Surround speakers configured, my guess would be that you have THX post processing turned on.
> 
> 
> Press the THX button on the remote and then either the Up or Down arrow to toggle THX off. Then see if the Mode doesn't show up for you.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> However, for an HD-DVD you probably don't WANT to be playing a DTS-ES 6.1 bitstream into the Anthem anyway. For best audio, you should set the HD-DVD player to send 5.1 channel high bandwidth PCM over the HDMI cable (i.e., play a "lossless" track). Then let the Anthem process that up to 7.1 speaker output if you have Rear Surround speakers. That will show up as 6 channel PCM in the Anthem status display.
> 
> --Bob




Will try this today. Thanks Bob

John


----------



## audiman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11403949
> 
> 
> I think for the Toshiba - you should have the
> 
> HDMI out set to AUTO.
> 
> 
> For Blu-Ray players - it is the OPPOSITE.
> 
> 
> Bottom Line - if the Toshiba and D2 are set properly
> 
> -- you should see 5.1 PCM in the D2 Display.
> 
> 
> If the D2 is NOT SHOWING 5.1 PCM - Something is WRONG.



I dont see 5.1 pcm. Sound from a DTHD track are 4dB (at least) quieter than a DD+ track.


Same for music. Anything from my theta compli analog out is way better than going thru the coaxial digital. Same speaker config and calibrated with a spl meter.


Conclusion : anything going thru the D2's dacs lacks bass and dynamics.


I dont really know where to look.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11403665
> 
> 
> Anthem must be doing SOMETHING right. They've spawned their very own hate thread here.
> 
> --Bob



And Bob, if you take the time to read the "hate thread", you will noticed that all the usual suspects (particularly 3 frustrated Halcro SSP owners waiting for the LPCM over HDMI for SOOOOOO long) and well known Anthem bashers did post in there. I remember reading Anthem bashing one time or another from almost all the people that did post in that thread...


I don't have to name them, they know pretty well who they are.


About that hate threat. I had a Rotel RMB-1095 4-5 years ago. It was humming like a refrigerator. I had to ship it 3 times to my dealer and pay each time, and each time it came back with the same problem. I was really pissed. I asked for an exchange... But Rotel told me that it was to the dealer to decided if he would exchange it since it was never fixed, not them!







Incredible! And he refused. So I sold it with a BIG loss to someone knowing the problem and wanted to buy it even with the problem (like 1/5 of the price). I will NEVER buy Rotel again... I didn't do a "hate thread", but I could have...


I had my share of problems with alot of other high-end manufacturers before. projectors, pre/pro, amps, etc


But Anthem in AVS have a "special place". Since it's by far the MOST popular pre/pros in here, the same 5-6 indivudals and well known Anthem bashers are ALWAYS posting in there and putting oil on the fire. It's so though to wait for an upgrade that was promised since 1 year ago, and having to pay for something that should have been there and working since the first day, that it can make you really ANGRY!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/11407699
> 
> 
> I dont see 5.1 pcm. Sound from a DTHD track are 4dB (at least) quieter than a DD+ track.
> 
> 
> Same for music. Anything from my theta compli analog out is way better than going thru the coaxial digital. Same speaker config and calibrated with a spl meter.
> 
> 
> Conclusion : anything going thru the D2's dacs lacks bass and dynamics.
> 
> 
> I dont really know where to look.



I'm not a tuning expert - But I came from a Lexicon MC-12b

and the D2 is way better. So I think some other folks here

need to help you . The D2 will be better when tuned correctly.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/11403181
> 
> 
> Oh doubting rudolpht
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both Nick & Frank plus Alain have talked about the EQ feature and given some pretty good specifics on it.
> 
> I have also heard from another impeccible source regarding it as well.
> 
> I don't think they're going to publish the manual until it's ready for release and the mics have been shipped to the dealers so if you need that level of confirmation then you will have to wait a bit longer.
> 
> It will make the D2 the most complete pre/pro available at any price.



I was speaking to someone recently "very in the know" at Anthem and it seems the Room EQ thing will be shown at CEDIA.

/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/11407699
> 
> 
> I dont see 5.1 pcm. Sound from a DTHD track are 4dB (at least) quieter than a DD+ track.
> 
> 
> Same for music. Anything from my theta compli analog out is way better than going thru the coaxial digital. Same speaker config and calibrated with a spl meter.
> 
> 
> Conclusion : anything going thru the D2's dacs lacks bass and dynamics.
> 
> 
> I dont really know where to look.



OK let's start with the basics.


* What version of Anthem software are you using (press Select once to display)?


* Which Toshiba HD-DVD player do you have? We're assuming you have it connected via HDMI (only) to the Anthem, correct?


* You need to set the Toshiba player to send PCM audio over HDMI to the Anthem when playing HD-DVD "lossless" tracks -- usually the Auto setting is the one you want. And of course you need to select the Dolby TrueHD sound track on any given disc for playback.


* You need to make sure any speaker configuration management stuff in the player is DISABLED so that it is not being done twice (once in the player and once in the Anthem). If there is no simple way to just turn off bass steering and volume balancing, do the following:


-- Tell the Toshiba you have a full complement of speakers including a subwoofer, whether or not that is true.

-- Tell the Toshiba that all your main speakers are "large", again whether or not that is true.

-- Tell the Toshiba that all your speakers are at the same listening distance. Any distance will do so long as they are all the same.

-- Tell the Toshiba that none of your speakers needs to have volume boosted or cut (0dB).


* While playing that sound track, press Select on the Anthem remote repeatedly. Each press will bring up a different info display. Please report what it says. If things are set up right from the Toshiba, it should be reporting 6 channel PCM when you are playing a TrueHD track.


* While playing that sound track, press and hold the "7" key to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. Go to the Info panel. Please report what it says for input/output audio.


* Are you using THX post processing? Press the THX button and then use the Up or Down arrow to toggle THX on or off. For now, set it to OFF.


* Do you have Dynamics turned on? Dynamics (intended for night listening to avoid waking the neighbors) will weaken the impact of the audio track. Dynamics should be set to "Normal". Press Dynamics and use the Up or Down arrow to adjust.


--------------------------------------------------


These are the operational controls. Looking at them may provide a simple answer. If not, then your problem may be in your audio setup in the Anthem. Now let's verify your setup itself.


* Please report the settings in Setup / Speaker Configuration, including the settings in Setup / Speaker Configuration / Room Resonance Filter


* Please report the settings in Setup / Source Setup for the input you are using with the HD-DVD player.


* Have you gone through the process of balancing your speaker volumes using the test tones presented in Setup / Speaker Level menu? Or did you use test tones from some other source such as a calibration DVD?


* Any crossover in your subwoofer should be disabled (or set to the highest possible frequency) to get it out of the way. The Anthem will be doing your crossover processing.


* Did you fiddle with Setup / Speaker Configuration / Bass Peak Level? It is very common for users to mistakenly set this too low -- which will dramatically reduce bass impact. If you have changed it from the default settings shown in the manual, go return it back to those default settings.


Odds are there is an easy answer here, and we might not really need ALL this detail from you, but this is the sort of stuff that needs to be looked at to figure out what's up.


===================================


EDITED TO ADD: It is normal for the "lossless" tracks to be a bit quieter than the lossy bitstream tracks. They do this to allow for the increased dynamic range. Just raise Main Volume to compensate if you'd like. However it is important to check that you have Anthem software V1.11 or later, as the software prior to that still has the PCM LFE 10db boost bug. If you have Anthem software V1.10 or older, do NOT upgrade to the V1.11 version available for download from the Anthem web site. Instead, give Anthem tech support a call and ask them to email you the latest version (probably V1.12s).


EDITED TO ADD 2: The Anthem provides "on the fly" temporary surround level adjustments via the remote control. It remembers these settings for each type of audio input format from each source input. Thus if you have played with these, it is easy to confuse yourself into thinking you have returned all of the them to 0, when in fact you've done that for some other source or while some other audio format was playing. Obviously if you are playing audio with the temporary controls turned down, things will sound week.


You can force ALL of these temporary controls back to their default settings all at one time by the following procedure:


* Go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings


* Save User Settings


* Reload Factory Defaults (this may cause you to lose video but you can continue by looking at the Front Panel display)


* Restore Saved User Settings


The "temporary" settings are not saved with the User settings, so this ends up resetting all of them to their defaults.

--Bob


----------



## audiman

Thx for the response. My answers are in red




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11408823
> 
> 
> OK let's start with the basics.
> 
> 
> * What version of Anthem software are you using (press Select once to display)? 1.20
> 
> 
> * Which Toshiba HD-DVD player do you have? We're assuming you have it connected via HDMI (only) to the Anthem, correct? HD-A1, ver 2.0, connected via hdmi
> 
> 
> * You need to set the Toshiba player to send PCM audio over HDMI to the Anthem when playing HD-DVD "lossless" tracks -- usually the Auto setting is the one you want. And of course you need to select the Dolby TrueHD sound track on any given disc for playback. done
> 
> 
> * You need to make sure any speaker configuration management stuff in the player is DISABLED so that it is not being done twice (once in the player and once in the Anthem). If there is no simple way to just turn off bass steering and volume balancing, do the following:
> 
> 
> -- Tell the Toshiba you have a full complement of speakers including a subwoofer, whether or not that is true.
> 
> -- Tell the Toshiba that all your main speakers are "large", again whether or not that is true.
> 
> -- Tell the Toshiba that all your speakers are at the same listening distance. Any distance will do so long as they are all the same.
> 
> -- Tell the Toshiba that none of your speakers needs to have volume boosted or cut (0dB).
> 
> done
> 
> 
> 
> * While playing that sound track, press Select on the Anthem remote repeatedly. Each press will bring up a different info display. Please report what it says. If things are set up right from the Toshiba, it should be reporting 6 channel PCM when you are playing a TrueHD track. For the heart hd-dvd, i only get 2 ch 48 khz on the dthd track. Must be disk or player related cause on Constantine, i get 6 ch 96 khz
> 
> 
> 
> * While playing that sound track, press and hold the "7" key to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. Go to the Info panel. Please report what it says for input/output audio.
> 
> 
> * Are you using THX post processing? Press the THX button and then use the Up or Down arrow to toggle THX on or off. For now, set it to OFF.
> 
> 
> * Do you have Dynamics turned on? Dynamics (intended for night listening to avoid waking the neighbors) will weaken the impact of the audio track. Dynamics should be set to "Normal". Press Dynamics and use the Up or Down arrow to adjust.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> These are the operational controls. Looking at them may provide a simple answer. If not, then your problem may be in your audio setup in the Anthem. Now let's verify your setup itself.
> 
> 
> * Please report the settings in Setup / Speaker Configuration, including the settings in Setup / Speaker Configuration / Room Resonance Filter i dont use this filter
> 
> 
> 
> * Please report the settings in Setup / Source Setup for the input you are using with the HD-DVD player. dig hdmi
> 
> 
> 
> * Have you gone through the process of balancing your speaker volumes using the test tones presented in Setup / Speaker Level menu? Or did you use test tones from some other source such as a calibration DVD? done
> 
> 
> 
> * Any crossover in your subwoofer should be disabled (or set to the highest possible frequency) to get it out of the way. The Anthem will be doing your crossover processing.
> 
> 
> * Did you fiddle with Setup / Speaker Configuration / Bass Peak Level? It is very common for users to mistakenly set this too low -- which will dramatically reduce bass impact. If you have changed it from the default settings shown in the manual, go return it back to those default settings.
> did not find this one, so i assume it is set to default
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Odds are there is an easy answer here, and we might not really need ALL this detail from you, but this is the sort of stuff that needs to be looked at to figure out what's up.
> 
> 
> ===================================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: It is normal for the "lossless" tracks to be a bit quieter than the lossy bitstream tracks. They do this to allow for the increased dynamic range. Just raise Main Volume to compensate if you'd like. However it is important to check that you have Anthem software V1.11 or later, as the software prior to that still has the PCM LFE 10db boost bug. If you have Anthem software V1.10 or older, do NOT upgrade to the V1.11 version available for download from the Anthem web site. Instead, give Anthem tech support a call and ask them to email you the latest version (probably V1.12s).
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD 2: The Anthem provides "on the fly" temporary surround level adjustments via the remote control. It remembers these settings for each type of audio input format from each source input. Thus if you have played with these, it is easy to confuse yourself into thinking you have returned all of the them to 0, when in fact you've done that for some other source or while some other audio format was playing. Obviously if you are playing audio with the temporary controls turned down, things will sound week.
> 
> 
> You can force ALL of these temporary controls back to their default settings all at one time by the following procedure:
> 
> 
> * Go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings
> 
> 
> * Save User Settings
> 
> 
> * Reload Factory Defaults (this may cause you to lose video but you can continue by looking at the Front Panel display)
> 
> 
> * Restore Saved User Settings
> 
> 
> The "temporary" settings are not saved with the User settings, so this ends up resetting all of them to their defaults.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/11411117
> 
> 
> For the heart hd-dvd, i only get 2 ch 48 khz on the dthd track. Must be disk or player related cause on Constantine, i get 6 ch 96 khz



If you CHECK - you will see the TrueHD track on

that Concert has been LEFT OUT. It is TrueHD

5.0.


USELESS in my Book.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

audiman,

They removed the Bass Peak Level control in the version of software you have since so many people were confused by it. So you don't have to worry about that one.


You are using the best Anthem software version already, so that's not the issue.


I'm not familiar with the Heart HD-DVD so I don't know whether the 2 channel you are getting is correct or not. Getting 2 channel could be a result of several things: (1) that's correct for that track, or (2) the VIDEO output resolution of the player is not set to 720p or higher, or (3) something screwed up in the HDMI handshake to the Anthem.


However, 48KHz is correct for almost all TrueHD tracks out there now. The Toshibas have an odd problem/mis-feature that if you raise the rate on the optical output to 96KHz then the player ALSO, confusingly, upsamples any PCM from the lossless tracks to 96KHz for HDMI output -- and does a poor job of it. So you should probably look to change that setting back to 48KHz in the Toshiba.


My question on speaker level calibration was actually asking whether you did it using the Anthem's internally generated test tones (correct), or some external source like a calibration DVD (incorrect).


Do you have Dynamics=NORMAL?


What is your speaker configuration (small vs. large mains, crossover settings, one or 2 subs -- normal or "supersub")?


Have you verified that the "temporary" surround and bass level adjustments are all at 0?

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/11404904
> 
> 
> I think perhaps the "hate" thread Bob is referring to is person who's had his D2 out for warranty service for too long.
> 
> 
> It's your funeral
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rudolpht, I think you may have a bit of a wait on the D3.



Wouldn't be the first time I shot myself in the foot










I am actually getting kind of pi$$ed off that every other time I start up my system I have to toggle between Extended RGB & Studio RGB and start everything back up.


No response from Tech Support in 10 days. (I hear Nick is on vacation).


If no EQ on the AVM-50 at CEDIA it's getting put up for sale and I'll use grab a Yamaha RX-Z11 or something similar to wait out until the D3 comes out. I can't do the the $2500 deep dive to on top of the AVM-50 and take a couple more grand loss on the D2 when I pick up a D3. I may REALLY LIKE Anthem when it works well, but I'm not such a zealot that I take that kind of $ bath. It isn't that I can't afford it. It's just stupid. Best at any price is just a little too ethnocentric bravado for me even with a 100 mascots. So I'll find out at CEDIA if I check out of the Anthem club and pair something else up with a new Sony Diamond (Bravia VPL-VW60) or maybe a JVC HDL100 to replace the 2K.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11418275
> 
> 
> If no EQ on the AVM-50 at CEDIA



An EQ is nice to have - but you maybe only use it ONCE

in a year at the MOST.


I have a D2 - so the upgrade is only $300 for me - But

HONESTLY - I don't even know if I will do the upgrade

at $300. I doubt I could hear better sound by the subtle

tweaks the EQ might be able to do.


Stick with your AVM50 and live WITHOUT a EQ, at

least until the D3 comes out and I can guarantee

you - it is not even in the pipeline yet.


I had EQ on my Lexicon MC-12b before the D2. I used it ONCE.


----------



## radtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11401722
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget to check and report what Video Source Adjust / Info is saying for video input and output. What it SHOULD be saying for output is whatever you set up in Setup / Video Output, and what it SHOULD be saying for input is the resolution you have set the Mini to produce in RGB data format (since it is a DVI output).
> 
> --Bob



Bob and others:


Thank you so much for your help. Well, after much testing and fiddling (including trying all of your tips) I finally found the answer, which I post here for anyone else who should encounter the problem. The problem was not HDMI, DVI, or the Anthem or the projector. The problem was the MAC!! This is a brand new mini, which I had temporarily hooked up to a computer monitor for configuration, and seemed fine, then moved to the Anthem. But something about putting it on the Anthem/Panny PJ inverted the color settings in the video driver. When I hooked the mac straight to the projector, I still had inverted colors. There is no setting in the color profile on a mac to do this. Finally, I did some reading on the net and found that there is a little known key sequence which will invert colors on a mac. The key sequence is Ctrl-Alt-Cmd-8. When I pressed this, the colors reverted to normal and everything is now fine! Interestingly it was listed on some sites as a prank hack to fool and frustrate fellow mac users - but somehow my new mac played this trick on me!










Read about it on http://digg.com/apple/invert_screen_on_mac 


Still don't know how this happened, but anyway, problem solved. Thanks again....


PS. still want to be able to download entire thread for searching. I will try to email list moderators...


RT


----------



## jluloff

I am looking to buy a Blu-Ray or HD-DVD player and was wondering what units are working well with the AVM-50/Sony "Pearl" combo. I don't want the PS3 in my rack (noise/heat) so that is out and I don't want any unit that I need a work around to have it work properly. Any suggestions from the folks here?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11418511
> 
> 
> Stick with your AVM50 and live WITHOUT a EQ, at
> 
> least until the D3 comes out and I can guarantee
> 
> you - it is not even in the pipeline yet.



My room is a little funky and I can attest to dramatic improvement on older flagships, but what you say makes (like usual Hank) good pragmatic sense. Which is why it will be hard to do... But in the end laziness may win out. There are pretty reasonable standalone EQ multi-position calculating units in the 500-600 range, so if I really wanted to do it, that would be a smarter way to go.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/11419476
> 
> 
> I am looking to buy a Blu-Ray or HD-DVD player and was wondering what units are working well with the AVM-50/Sony "Pearl" combo. I don't want the PS3 in my rack (noise/heat) so that is out and I don't want any unit that I need a work around to have it work properly. Any suggestions from the folks here?


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=862544


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radtheater* /forum/post/11419345
> 
> 
> PS. still want to be able to download entire thread for searching. I will try to email list moderators...
> 
> 
> RT



Please Do. There use to be a *BUTTON* But I guess

it is gone now or so HIDDEN we can't find it.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11419538
> 
> 
> My room is a little funky and I can attest to dramatic improvement on older flagships, but what you say makes (like usual Hank) good pragmatic sense. Which is why it will be hard to do... But in the end laziness may win out. There are pretty reasonable standalone EQ multi-position calculating units in the 500-600 range, so if I really wanted to do it, that would be a smarter way to go.



Those Dungeon Tables get in the way of your AUDIO










You said your room was funky










There are STAND-ALONE EQ's you can run on your

PC Laptop - and I hear some of them are able to

do a PROFESSIONAL job for a few hundred bucks.


The AVM50 can generate all the TONES and the EQ

can display them as they are seen in your room. With

a FUNKY room - you might even get better results

that way.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radtheater* /forum/post/11419345
> 
> 
> Bob and others:
> 
> 
> Thank you so much for your help. Well, after much testing and fiddling (including trying all of your tips) I finally found the answer, which I post here for anyone else who should encounter the problem. The problem was not HDMI, DVI, or the Anthem or the projector. The problem was the MAC!! This is a brand new mini, which I had temporarily hooked up to a computer monitor for configuration, and seemed fine, then moved to the Anthem. But something about putting it on the Anthem/Panny PJ inverted the color settings in the video driver. When I hooked the mac straight to the projector, I still had inverted colors. There is no setting in the color profile on a mac to do this. Finally, I did some reading on the net and found that there is a little known key sequence which will invert colors on a mac. The key sequence is Ctrl-Alt-Cmd-8. When I pressed this, the colors reverted to normal and everything is now fine! Interestingly it was listed on some sites as a prank hack to fool and frustrate fellow mac users - but somehow my new mac played this trick on me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Read about it on http://digg.com/apple/invert_screen_on_mac
> 
> 
> Still don't know how this happened, but anyway, problem solved. Thanks again....
> 
> 
> PS. still want to be able to download entire thread for searching. I will try to email list moderators...
> 
> 
> RT



Well I'm glad you found it!


Do you have a cat? From the comments in that Digg article:



> Quote:
> When this just 'happened' to my father's powerbook I was very confused. I couldn't find the setting in the display section, so I told him to call my buddy in apple support. Turns out it 'happened' just after the cat crossed the keyboard. What's better is my buddy says he gets the call all the time and it's usually feline induced.



The thing you found is part of the Universal Access stuff in the Mac (see System Preferences). It helps people who have trouble reading "normal", dark on light text. Typically the Universal Access stuff is all disabled. If you enabled it for some other reason, this seting might have been left in there from previous fiddling.

--Bob


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11418511
> 
> 
> An EQ is nice to have - but you maybe only use it ONCE in a year at the MOST.



Why would you use it more than once, let alone once a year? Once the filters are set to correct room problems, there's no need to ever use the EQ feature again. Same with calibrating levels and distances; the fact that you do it once doesn't minimize its importance.


> Quote:
> _I don't even know if I will do the upgrade at $300. I doubt I could hear better sound by the subtle tweaks the EQ might be able to do._



Whether you're listening at home or at a concert hall, more than 50% of what you're hearing is the room and not the speakers or performers, respectively. If Anthem does a good job with their room correction system, then you'll be able to peel back a few layers of unwanted contributions that your room is adding to the overall sound, letting you hear more of what your speakers actually sound like and more of what's in the source material. Certainly worth $300, even if just to give it fair try.


Sanjay


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/11421915
> 
> 
> Why would you use it more than once, let alone once a year?
> 
> Sanjay



I agree with that - I was trying to give Rudolph the

benefit of the doubt. He said his room was FUNKY










My theater was built from the ground up - and everything

was acoustically designed to be correct. Even the colors are

designed to absorb any light bounce from the screen.


On my Lexicon MC-12b - I did use the EQ ONCE


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11420905
> 
> 
> Those Dungeon Tables get in the way of your AUDIO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You said your room was funky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are STAND-ALONE EQ's you can run on your
> 
> PC Laptop - and I hear some of them are able to
> 
> do a PROFESSIONAL job for a few hundred bucks.
> 
> 
> The AVM50 can generate all the TONES and the EQ
> 
> can display them as they are seen in your room. With
> 
> a FUNKY room - you might even get better results
> 
> that way.



Hank, good point. I do remember what a difference Audyssey made on Pio flagships. I actually have a home office in the back of the theater, and all those sound reflective torture devices










I'll check out alternatives with regard to software (although 11.2 on the Yammy is interesting







).


My big issue is getting the start up working for a DVI projector on the Anthem. It's just to frustrating. And this supposedly the "release version."


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There will undoubtedly be a new software release for the version that contains the EQ. They have to turn on access to the EQ after all, plus provide the PC software.


The question is whether any non-EQ related bug fixes will make it into that release or be delayed until the first interim release AFTER that. My guess is that there WILL be other bug fixes bundled in with the EQ release.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11423605
> 
> 
> My big issue is getting the start up working for a DVI projector on the Anthem. It's just to frustrating. And this supposedly the "release version."



I do understand your DVI frustration but it

is TIME to retire your DVI PJ. When I got my

D2 - 1 Year Ago - I retired my DVI PJ about

two week later and replaced it with a RUBY.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11425236
> 
> 
> I do understand your DVI frustration but it
> 
> is TIME to retire your DVI PJ. When I got my
> 
> D2 - 1 Year Ago - I retired my DVI PJ about
> 
> two week later and replaced it with a RUBY.



Handshake issues certainly aren't limited to DVI. I still use a Hughes HTL-HD Sat box with DVI output and it's quicker to sync usually than my HDMI components are.


The Ruby has DVI.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/11425314
> 
> 
> The Ruby has DVI.



And WHY would I use DVI.


The picture quality using the DVI on the RUBY is

un-watchable - once you have compared it to the

HDMI input.


Using the DVI input on the Ruby is like watching

and OLD CRT PJ.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11425370
> 
> 
> And WHY would I use DVI.
> 
> 
> The picture quality using the DVI on the RUBY is
> 
> un-watchable - once you have compared it to the
> 
> HDMI input.
> 
> 
> Using the DVI input on the Ruby is like watching
> 
> and OLD CRT PJ.



Maybe I'm remembering wrong, but I thought the Ruby only accepted 1080p60 over DVI.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/11425390
> 
> 
> Maybe I'm remembering wrong, but I thought the Ruby only accepted 1080p60 over DVI.



YES you are WRONG.


The Ruby excepts all formats over HDMI

EXCEPT 1080p/24. Only the DVI input will

accept 1080p/24 - really 1080p/48 - which STINKS.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11425410
> 
> 
> YES you are WRONG.
> 
> 
> The Ruby excepts all formats over HDMI
> 
> EXCEPT 1080p/24. Only the DVI input will
> 
> accept 1080p/24 - really 1080p/48 - which STINKS.



Well, I guess YOU answered your OWN question then.










I knew I remembered there was some reason for using DVI on the Ruby.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/11425446
> 
> 
> Well, I guess YOU answered your OWN question then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew I remembered there was some reason for using DVI on the Ruby.



I GUESS I am NOT writing CLEARLY.


DVI STINKS DVI STINKS DVI STINKS.


I NEVER EVER USE DVI.


----------



## LEVESQUE

The Ruby doesn't accept 1080p24 on any digital connection, but only on the component connection (stupid, I know). It can accept 1080p48 ONLY on the DVI connection, and not over HDMI.


Also, William Phelps, the famous calibrator said that all the Ruby are sharper over DVI compared to HDMI. And if William says so, it's true.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/11425597
> 
> 
> The Ruby doesn't accept 1080p24 on any digital connection, but only on the component connection (stupid, I know). It can accept 1080p48 ONLY on the DVI connection, and not over HDMI.
> 
> 
> Also, William Phelps, the famous calibrator said that all the Ruby are sharper over DVI compared to HDMI. And if William says so, it's true.



I agree with everything you say EXCEPT I have to

disagree with William Phelps - whoever he is - if

he says DVI on the Ruby is Sharper.


Maybe he is referring to the pins in the DVI connector

being sharper than the HDMI strips


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/11425597
> 
> 
> The Ruby doesn't accept 1080p24 on any digital connection, but only on the component connection (stupid, I know). It can accept 1080p48 ONLY on the DVI connection, and not over HDMI.
> 
> 
> Also, William Phelps, the famous calibrator said that all the Ruby are sharper over DVI compared to HDMI. And if William says so, it's true.



Actually, wm agrees with dr hank. I recall this specifically as I originally used a DVI connection from my HTPC to ruby, then switched to the HDMI input with a converting cable after reading wm's post .


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11425236
> 
> 
> I do understand your DVI frustration but it
> 
> is TIME to retire your DVI PJ. When I got my
> 
> D2 - 1 Year Ago - I retired my DVI PJ about
> 
> two week later and replaced it with a RUBY.



I'm with you, but the HD-2K is a real workhorse and perfected by Wm Phelps (his first 2K calibration).


That said I have a Diamond already on order with AVScience.










EDIT: It's hard to keep up with this crowd, I mention Wm not knowing the last few posts referenced. GREAT guy.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/11425698
> 
> 
> Actually, wm agrees with dr hank. I recall this specifically as I originally used a DVI connection from my HTPC to ruby, then switched to the HDMI input with a converting cable after reading wm's post .



Oups.







I remember reading the opposite in the 1st days of the Ruby.







So Drhankz is right then.


----------



## davidhoenig

Hi all,


Does anyone else have Verizon FiOS TV and a D2? I'm having some very annoying handshaking issues over... shocker... HDMI.


I'm running an earlier version of 1.11 on my D2.


Verizon just updated their set-top boxes with new firmware and channel guide, and ever time I turn on my D2 and try to set the input to FiOS, the FiOS set-top box goes thru an entire reboot before it resets the resolution back to 480i and before it can finish handshaking with the D2. After that process, they 'play nicely' but it's pretty annoying.


Any thoughts?


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/11425714
> 
> 
> Oups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I remember reading the opposite in the 1st days of the Ruby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So Drhankz is right then.



Many years ago when my oldest son was a teenager, he matter-of-factly informed me it was common knowledge that everyone over 30 suffered from CRS


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/11425745
> 
> 
> Many years ago when my oldest son was a teenager, he matter-of-factly informed me it was common knowledge that everyone over 30 suffered from CRS



Yeah. 2 months off on holidays can cause some strange effects on a brain!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/11425796
> 
> 
> Yeah. 2 months off on holidays can cause some strange effects on a brain!



It sure can.


I'm surprised you even remembered the AVS forum was HERE


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/11425719
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Does anyone else have Verizon FiOS TV and a D2? I'm having some very annoying handshaking issues over... shocker... HDMI.
> 
> 
> I'm running an earlier version of 1.11 on my D2.
> 
> 
> Verizon just updated their set-top boxes with new firmware and channel guide, and ever time I turn on my D2 and try to set the input to FiOS, the FiOS set-top box goes thru an entire reboot before it resets the resolution back to 480i and before it can finish handshaking with the D2. After that process, they 'play nicely' but it's pretty annoying.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?



I'm not using the Verizon FIOS TV, but as I recall they use Motorola set top boxes which are also used by, say, Comcast with different Comcast software but much the same firmware. These Motorola boxes have been rife with HDMI problems.


Now doing a reboot is pretty extreme, and you may simply have a faulty FIOS box (perhaps the software upgrade didn't auto-install properly), but I wouldn't put it past Motorola to do that if it wasn't completely happy with the HDMI handshake. Here are your options:


0) Make sure Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO and Auto Dig = NO are set for that input in the Anthem. This simplifies what the FIOS box has to do when an HDMI handshake must happen.


1) Give Anthem tech support a call and ask them to email you the latest software (most likely V1.12s). This software has a completely re-written HDMI portion compared to what you are using now and MAY be more robust with your FIOS box.


2) Upgrade/shorten your HDMI cable from the FIOS box. The HDMI electronics Motorola uses are ridiculously sensitive to anything less than a perfect HDMI connection.


3) Get a replacement FIOS box from Verizon, and see if it works better.


4) Switch to Component video (and optical audio) output from your FIOS box to the Anthem. You will need to adjust your basic level settings in Video Source Adjust / Picture to re-calibrate the image, but you may find that the picture quality is just as good as HDMI and without any HDMI hassles.


5) A new HDMI handshake has to happen every time the FIOS box switches video output resolutions. You can also minimize the number of HDMI handshakes that must happen by setting the FIOS box to use only one video output resolution (typically you would set 1080i). This is not ideal for viewing SDTV or HDTV programs coming in at 720p, but I mention it for completeness.


----------



## bluemark81

Has anyone ever noticed how warm, almost hot, the right hand side the processor gets? I assume this is normal?


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

hey guys! I havent been here in months, can someone give me the lowdown on the room eq for the d2


thanks, bob


----------



## FilmMixer

Bob.. look over the last 3 pages


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

thanks, looks like Im just in time for the eq upgrade


----------



## earwit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/11425719
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Does anyone else have Verizon FiOS TV and a D2? I'm having some very annoying handshaking issues over... shocker... HDMI.
> 
> 
> I'm running an earlier version of 1.11 on my D2.
> 
> 
> Verizon just updated their set-top boxes with new firmware and channel guide, and ever time I turn on my D2 and try to set the input to FiOS, the FiOS set-top box goes thru an entire reboot before it resets the resolution back to 480i and before it can finish handshaking with the D2. After that process, they 'play nicely' but it's pretty annoying.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?



I'm using Verizon Fios (Motorola Dvr) with the D2..

I have the Motorola outputting at 1080I and am using

component and digital cables, I found HDMI too frustrating

with the Motorola . Also it appears 1.12s is far more stable

then the 1.11 version in regards toward the Motorola box.

Works fine with both the lower resolution analog stations

and the HD Stations......


Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/11427153
> 
> 
> Has anyone ever noticed how warm, almost hot, the right hand side the processor gets? I assume this is normal?



The D2 runs quite warm along the side where the power cord plugs in (right side as you face the front of the unit). That's where the power supply is. This is normal. However, you need to have good ventilation space around the D2 so that the heat being dissipated out of there doesn't accumulate in the surrounding cabinet/shelf space and heat up the rest of the unit.

--Bob


----------



## Justin73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/11427153
> 
> 
> Has anyone ever noticed how warm, almost hot, the right hand side the processor gets? I assume this is normal?



I just purchased a Statement A2, A5, D2 combo and noticed the same thing. I put a 120mm computer fan on top of the D2 right over where the power cord plugs into the unit. I can run the combo for hours and the D2 remains cool to the touch. Off topic, I must say the that I am so far very impressed with sound and video performance of these 3 pieces!!


----------



## metallicafreak

Love the D2 so far. Still in the breakin period (yes I believe in that voodoo). Major improvement right away in the video. I have a Dwin TV3E and I feed it 1080i off my cable box scaled to 720p. Now, I feed the 1080i to the D2 which scales to 720p to the pJ and the picture is noticibly better (even my wife (reluctantly) agreed).


Tom Brady never looked so good - and the picture was good too!


I have not even had a chance to tweak the picture!


FREAK!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin73* /forum/post/11428456
> 
> 
> I just purchased a Statement A2, A5, D2 combo and noticed the same thing. I put a 120mm computer fan on top of the D2 right over where the power cord plugs into the unit. I can run the combo for hours and the D2 remains cool to the touch. Off topic, I must say the that I am so far very impressed with sound and video performance of these 3 pieces!!



Ah! Then these must be yours?







































--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *metallicafreak* /forum/post/11428890
> 
> 
> Love the D2 so far. Still in the breakin period (yes I believe in that voodoo). Major improvement right away in the video. I have a Dwin TV3E and I feed it 1080i off my cable box scaled to 720p. Now, I feed the 1080i to the D2 which scales to 720p to the pJ and the picture is noticibly better (even my wife (reluctantly) agreed).
> 
> 
> Tom Brady never looked so good - and the picture was good too!
> 
> 
> I have not even had a chance to tweak the picture!
> 
> 
> FREAK!



Take your time doing the video calibration and it will likely get even better!


Modern TVs are very sensitive to getting the levels "right". The difference between "right" and "nearly right" can be a lot bigger than you might expect.

--Bob


----------



## Justin73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11428991
> 
> 
> Ah! Then these must be yours?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin73* /forum/post/11428456
> 
> 
> I just purchased a Statement A2, A5, D2 combo and noticed the same thing. I put a 120mm computer fan on top of the D2 right over where the power cord plugs into the unit. I can run the combo for hours and the D2 remains cool to the touch. Off topic, I must say the that I am so far very impressed with sound and video performance of these 3 pieces!!



Justin: Can you get computer fans preterminated with an electrical connector or did you have to wire that up yourself? Aren't they low voltage devices? (12V I think)


----------



## radtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11420873
> 
> 
> Please Do. There use to be a *BUTTON* But I guess
> 
> it is gone now or so HIDDEN we can't find it.



I emailed the Forum moderators and got a short reply which simply said: Download of threads is no longer possible.


Perhaps someone here knows the moderators and could see if this is something which could be re-established, or is this just not possible with the software that runs the forum now?


This thread is reealllllyyyy long and is difficult to search effectively.


Thanks,

RT


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radtheater* /forum/post/11429937
> 
> 
> I emailed the Forum moderators and got a short reply which simply said: Download of threads is no longer possible.
> 
> 
> Perhaps someone here knows the moderators and could see if this is something which could be re-established, or is this just not possible with the software that runs the forum now?
> 
> 
> This thread is reealllllyyyy long and is difficult to search effectively.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> RT



THANKS for that feedback - it does make sense since

before it was EASY and OBVIOUS - Now it is GONE.


----------



## Justin73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/11429286
> 
> 
> Justin: Can you get computer fans preterminated with an electrical connector or did you have to wire that up yourself? Aren't they low voltage devices? (12V I think)



I had to wire it up myself. I just took an old 12V AC adapter that I was no longer using and cut one end off and soldered it to a 3-pin fan connector. Now I can use any computer fan. Works great.


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/11429286
> 
> 
> Justin: Can you get computer fans preterminated with an electrical connector or did you have to wire that up yourself? Aren't they low voltage devices? (12V I think)



This works great
http://www.coolerguys.com/840556029977.html


----------



## scottshd

my computer only has a usb port no serial went to my local radioshack all they have is a six foot cable one end usb the other db9 anthem manual says to use a usb to serial adapter that is windows certified has anyone used the radioshack cable?or where can I purchase a usb to serial adapter from? thanks scott


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/11431269
> 
> 
> my computer only has a usb port no serial went to my local radioshack all they have is a six foot cable one end usb the other db9 anthem manual says to use a usb to serial adapter that is windows certified has anyone used the radioshack cable?or where can I purchase a usb to serial adapter from? thanks scott



Scott, get a shorty USB/serial adapter if you have to use that, and then run a regular serial cable from that to the Anthem. The serial cable itself can be as long as you need.


For the adapters, check Belkin and IoGear.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I feel close to audio nervana with my AVM 50, but would like to ask several questions to make sure I haven't missed anything.


I have followed all the steps Bob outlined in an earlier post for mating the XA2 Tosh and the AVM 50. I am using firmware 1.1e. I also have a PS3.


Tosh hdmi outputs using auto for sound and ps3 using hdmi outputs linear pcm for 5.1 pcm discs and bitstream for DTS HD and DTS-ES. Anthem displays all formats correctly but I wasn't sure if when playing Truehd, the display shows the letters *"PCM" or just "6.1"* . If it shows 6.1 I am ok, but if PCM should display, I am doing something wrong.


thanks,

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/11431269
> 
> 
> my computer only has a usb port no serial went to my local radioshack all they have is a six foot cable one end usb the other db9 anthem manual says to use a usb to serial adapter that is windows certified has anyone used the radioshack cable?or where can I purchase a usb to serial adapter from? thanks scott



I agree with Bob's Recommendation in Thread # 8754.

The serial cable is just a pin to pin DB-9 cable.


SELECTION of the USB to Serial Adapter is CRITICAL.

A lot of people have had problems loading FW onto

the Anthem with USB to Serial Adapters. I'm not sure

if you can ever tell with Radio Shack - who makes theirs.


Maybe you have a CompUSA in your area or SAFER YET

use the Internet and ORDER the right one and wait for it

to be delivered. The wrong one can cause nightmares you

don't want to get into.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11423968
> 
> 
> There will undoubtedly be a new software release for the version that contains the EQ. They have to turn on access to the EQ after all, plus provide the PC software.
> 
> 
> The question is whether any non-EQ related bug fixes will make it into that release or be delayed until the first interim release AFTER that. My guess is that there WILL be other bug fixes bundled in with the EQ release.
> 
> --Bob



EQ software is way more complicated that we think and throwing in some parametric EQ may give some benefits but I don't think it's up to the standard of an AVM 50 or D2.


If you want to go all out and get the best possible result then look into: http://www.audyssey.com/soundequalizer.html 

http://www.audyssey.com/multEQ.html 


Here's a good FAQ: http://www.audyssey.com/faq.html 


This route isn't for everyone given the high cost of the unit and professional installation.


There's not one bad or even mediocre review of this unit:

http://www.audyssey.com/reviews.html 

http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/a...ound-equalizer 


Ayway, this is just food for thought.










Jim


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Jim,

There are some pretty talented people working on Anthem's Room-EQ solution. It is not likely to be your everyday parametric EQ. They know full well the stand alone high end stuff they'll be competing against.


In any event, all the details will be out at Cedia in just a couple weeks.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/11434766
> 
> 
> Ayway, this is just food for thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jim


 More Food for THOUGHT - Supports Both PC and MAC


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *radtheater* /forum/post/11429937
> 
> 
> I emailed the Forum moderators and got a short reply which simply said: Download of threads is no longer possible.
> 
> 
> Perhaps someone here knows the moderators and could see if this is something which could be re-established, or is this just not possible with the software that runs the forum now?
> 
> 
> This thread is reealllllyyyy long and is difficult to search effectively.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> RT



I'm guessing it's a limitation of the software - or a modification that David put in in the old version. One thing to try: Go to the bottom of the page and select "text view" and then select the thread. At the top are links to all the pages. There are FireFox extensions that will suck in all links on a page. There may be a way to gather this into one file or window - not sure - and then search.


larry


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11434816
> 
> 
> Jim,
> 
> There are some pretty talented people working on Anthem's Room-EQ solution. It is not likely to be your everyday parametric EQ. They know full well the stand alone high end stuff they'll be competing against.
> 
> 
> In any event, all the details will be out at Cedia in just a couple weeks.
> 
> --Bob



True. I will let you know from CEDIA.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Great! Looking forward to it.


More on-the-spot reporting from "Our Far Flung Correspondents"!

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850

F I N A L L Y!!! My dealed just drove 2 hours to my work and hand delivered my D2 that was ordered over 6 weeks ago. They're partially to blame for the delay as the original order wasn't actually placed. I thought it was a nice gesture on their part. Impressions and questions to follow. Obligatory mascotts if you please......................


----------



## Justin73

Is it possible to utilize the 16:9 or 4:3 option on a DVD player hooked up to the D2 via an HDMI cable. I have tried it on my DVD player that was hooked up using a component video cable and the D2 was able to stretch the image to fit my widescreen TV. Using HDMI, I noticed that the D2 doesn't stretch the image at all. Am I doing something wrong?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/11437136
> 
> 
> F I N A L L Y!!! My dealed just drove 2 hours to my work and hand delivered my D2 that was ordered over 6 weeks ago. They're partially to blame for the delay as the original order wasn't actually placed. I thought it was a nice gesture on their part. Impressions and questions to follow. Obligatory mascotts if you please......................



Bouncing your way now!







































--Bob


----------



## ccotenj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11435886
> 
> 
> Great! Looking forward to it.



me too! me too!


hopefully it's gonna live up to expectations. my bank account won't like it, but i sure will...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin73* /forum/post/11437232
> 
> 
> Is it possible to utilize the 16:9 or 4:3 option on a DVD player hooked up to the D2 via an HDMI cable. I have tried it on my DVD player that was hooked up using a component video cable and the D2 was able to stretch the image to fit my widescreen TV. Using HDMI, I noticed that the D2 doesn't stretch the image at all. Am I doing something wrong?



Justin,

Set your standard DVD player to HDMI 480i output. Tell the player it is sending to a 16:9 TV. Set the player to "uniformly stretch" any 4:3 content DVDs to fill the screen left to right (circles look like wide ovals, equally so wherever the circle happens to be on screen). Although this LOOKS LIKE, and is often described, as the player stretching the image, in fact the player is doing NOTHING to the image. A 16:9 TV simply interprets the pixels coming from the 4:3 content as fatter.


It is important to set things up this way so that the player does NOT generate its own Pillar Box Bars on the left and right hand sides of 4:3 content for you. If the player is told to generate those Bars you will lose horizontal resolution as the 480i image has the same number of pixels in each line whether or not the player uses some of them for Bars.


Meanwhile set the Anthem on that input with Video Source Adjust / Crop Input = HDMI Auto Detect. This let's the Anthem detect 16:9 and 4:3 content flags if your player happens to send them.


Finally you need to set Video Source Adjust / Scale Out properly.


If your player sends the 16:9 and 4:3 content flags, then you can leave Video Source Adjust / Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box. The Anthem will pad any incoming 4:3 content with Pillar Box bars on either side so as to produce the proper 16:9 shape for output. This is OK (i.e., no loss of resolution) because the Anthem does that at its higher, scaled, output resolution. Meanwhile any 16:9 content will need no such shape adjustment and so will appear properly -- filling the screen.


If your player does NOT send the aspect ratio flags over HDMI, then you will need to select the Anthem's Scale Out setting manually according to what you are watching. Use Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box for 4:3 content, and use Scale Out = Anamorphic for 16:9 content.


Since most movies you are likely to watch will be 16:9 (or wider), if your player doesn't send the flags you will probably end up using Anamorphic most of the time. Note that there is a shortcut under the Mode key to change the Scale Out setting. Press and hold Mode until the current Scale Out setting appears. Then use the Up or Down arrows to cycle through the choices.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz

Just wondering if anyone else has this problem.


My oppo 970 is hooked up component and optical to my D2 in dvd1 input and my oppo is set to output 480i. I also have an hdmi cable hooked up as well for sacd/dvd audio palyback on my dvd2 input. When playing a dvd I press the select button on the D2 remote to check the input video resolution it displays 'no signal' even though in the video adjust menu the input resolution shows up correctly as 720 x 480i.(the picture is displayed without any problem) If I switch to my dvd2 input it then shows up as 480i on my D2 display. When I switch back to dvd1 the video input resolution remains at 480i. Any ideas as to why I can't get the input resolution without having to switch to the hdmi connection?



Thanks


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11437829
> 
> 
> Just wondering if anyone else has this problem.
> 
> 
> My oppo 970 is hooked up component and optical to my D2 in dvd1 input and my oppo is set to output 480i. I also have an hdmi cable hooked up as well for sacd/dvd audio palyback on my dvd2 input. When playing a dvd I press the select button on the D2 remote to check the input video resolution it displays 'no signal' even though in the video adjust menu the input resolution shows up correctly as 720 x 480i.(the picture is displayed without any problem) If I switch to my dvd2 input it then shows up as 480i on my D2 display. When I switch back to dvd1 the video input resolution remains at 480i. Any ideas as to why I can't get the input resolution without having to switch to the hdmi connection?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



That sounds like a bug. I forget which software you are on, but if it's the latest stuff V1.12s (AKA V1.2) you should probably send an email off to Anthem.


What appears to happen from time to time is that the portion of the Anthem software that sets up those "Select" button displays ends up grabbing the information at the wrong time, or something. With the V1.11 software, if you switch to a different input and back, the Select display would then be correct. It's a nuisance, but as you point out it's just the data display that is faulty. In any event, if you've got a repeatable case, your experiments on this might help Anthem finally track down why this sometimes happens.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Bob,

Thanks again for everything. All is working perfectly, Marantz S3 dvi to hdmi, hr250 tivo with hdmi, Canon HV20 HI def video camera, Old Pioneer dvd 45a, JVC vcr with Super-vhs. I did take your suggestion and not change from 1.10 version to the one Nick sent me, 1.2s.

Cannot wait for ISF and sound adjustments.

Gerry


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11437956
> 
> 
> That sounds like a bug. I forget which software you are on, but if it's the latest stuff V1.12s (AKA V1.2) you should probably send an email off to Anthem.
> 
> 
> What appears to happen from time to time is that the portion of the Anthem software that sets up those "Select" button displays ends up grabbing the information at the wrong time, or something. With the V1.11 software, if you switch to a different input and back, the Select display would then be correct. It's a nuisance, but as you point out it's just the data display that is faulty. In any event, if you've got a repeatable case, your experiments on this might help Anthem finally track down why this sometimes happens.
> 
> --Bob



I got my unit back from repair two weeks ago with version 1.2 installed. Can anyone out there email me version 1.11e and 1.2? I would like to try 1.11e since I have multiple issues with version 1.2. But would like to go back to 1.2 if 1.11e is not any better. I emailed anthem twice over a week ago and have not heard back from them yet. I guess they are perparing for CEDIA.


Thanks


John

[email protected]


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11438088
> 
> 
> I got my unit back from repair two weeks ago with version 1.2 installed. Can anyone out there email me version 1.11e and 1.2? I would like to try 1.11e since I have multiple issues with version 1.2. But would like to go back to 1.2 if 1.11e is not any better. I emailed anthem twice over a week ago and have not heard back from them yet. I guess they are perparing for CEDIA.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John
> 
> [email protected]



John, I'm not certain you can safely install V1.11e on top of an existing V1.2 setup. The installer tries to retain the current user settings and the V1.2 settings are different from what the V1.11e installer is likely expecting.


I'm trying to recall whether we've had any reports here of people going back to V1.11e from V1.12s (AKA V1.2), and I don't think we've had any such reports.


You might want to give Anthem tech support a phone call for faster response on this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/11438069
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks again for everything. All is working perfectly, Marantz S3 dvi to hdmi, hr250 tivo with hdmi, Canon HV20 HI def video camera, Old Pioneer dvd 45a, JVC vcr with Super-vhs. I did take your suggestion and not change from 1.10 version to the one Nick sent me, 1.2s.
> 
> Cannot wait for ISF and sound adjustments.
> 
> Gerry



Glad to hear it! Now we just need to wait for them to get the CEDIA software out the door!

--Bob


----------



## Justin73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11437821
> 
> 
> Justin,
> 
> Set your standard DVD player to HDMI 480i output. Tell the player it is sending to a 16:9 TV. Set the player to "uniformly stretch" any 4:3 content DVDs to fill the screen left to right (circles look like wide ovals, equally so wherever the circle happens to be on screen). Although this LOOKS LIKE, and is often described, as the player stretching the image, in fact the player is doing NOTHING to the image. A 16:9 TV simply interprets the pixels coming from the 4:3 content as fatter.
> 
> 
> It is important to set things up this way so that the player does NOT generate its own Pillar Box Bars on the left and right hand sides of 4:3 content for you. If the player is told to generate those Bars you will lose horizontal resolution as the 480i image has the same number of pixels in each line whether or not the player uses some of them for Bars.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile set the Anthem on that input with Video Source Adjust / Crop Input = HDMI Auto Detect. This let's the Anthem detect 16:9 and 4:3 content flags if your player happens to send them.
> 
> 
> Finally you need to set Video Source Adjust / Scale Out properly.
> 
> 
> If your player sends the 16:9 and 4:3 content flags, then you can leave Video Source Adjust / Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box. The Anthem will pad any incoming 4:3 content with Pillar Box bars on either side so as to produce the proper 16:9 shape for output. This is OK (i.e., no loss of resolution) because the Anthem does that at its higher, scaled, output resolution. Meanwhile any 16:9 content will need no such shape adjustment and so will appear properly -- filling the screen.
> 
> 
> If your player does NOT send the aspect ratio flags over HDMI, then you will need to select the Anthem's Scale Out setting manually according to what you are watching. Use Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box for 4:3 content, and use Scale Out = Anamorphic for 16:9 content.
> 
> 
> Since most movies you are likely to watch will be 16:9 (or wider), if your player doesn't send the flags you will probably end up using Anamorphic most of the time. Note that there is a shortcut under the Mode key to change the Scale Out setting. Press and hold Mode until the current Scale Out setting appears. Then use the Up or Down arrows to cycle through the choices.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the info Bob. I will try this as soon as I get home from work.


Justin


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11437633
> 
> 
> Bouncing your way now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Got em, thanks. They were a long time coming.


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11438189
> 
> 
> John, I'm not certain you can safely install V1.11e on top of an existing V1.2 setup. The installer tries to retain the current user settings and the V1.2 settings are different from what the V1.11e installer is likely expecting.
> 
> 
> I'm trying to recall whether we've had any reports here of people going back to V1.11e from V1.12s (AKA V1.2), and I don't think we've had any such reports.
> 
> 
> You might want to give Anthem tech support a phone call for faster response on this.
> 
> --Bob



FWIW, I went from 1.12s back to 1.11e because of problems I had with 1.12s (JVC D-VHS no longer would handshake... no audio/video on startup from the D2 on occasion).


Going backward (from 1.12s), I just did a factory init before installing 1.11e (not sure this step is necessary) and after installation of 1.11e I used a settings backup made when 1.11e was installed (just before installing 1.12s) and everything seems fine... been running a month or better this way (JVC D-VHS working again and never a startup issue).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/11441428
> 
> 
> FWIW, I went from 1.12s back to 1.11e because of problems I had with 1.12s (JVC D-VHS no longer would handshake... no audio/video on startup from the D2 on occasion).
> 
> 
> Going backward (from 1.12s), I just did a factory init before installing 1.11e (not sure this step is necessary) and after installation of 1.11e I used a settings backup made when 1.11e was installed (just before installing 1.12s) and everything seems fine... been running a month or better this way (JVC D-VHS working again and never a startup issue).



Thanks! That's useful info.


We also had a report here that there was a running change in the display character generator (older part no longer available) that required some changes in the newer software. So it might STILL be the case that folks with NEW units can't go back to the V1.11 versions. But that's just a guess.

--Bob


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/11318684
> 
> 
> I have D2 version 1.2 and have the clicks problem with the PS3 but it doesn't crash the scaler. It appears to be heat related because an external fan resolves the issue. However, it is somewhat strange since the clicks are present immediately on startup before either the PS3 or the D2 even warmed up. The D2 feels completely cool to the touch and yet the clicks still appear. Turning on the fan resolves the issue.
> 
> 
> Anthem support has not responded to my last 2 emails (July 17 and July23) so I assume they are not doing anything about this issue.
> 
> 
> Although I have a work around at the present time, I am convinced that my unit is not functioning properly and am hopeful that a resolution will be forthcoming.
> 
> 
> Randy



I received a replacement D2 on Friday (also with version 1.2) and everything seems to be working fine. It's good to know that Anthem is serious about customer service and really stands behind their products. Makes me feel good about my purchase. Oh yeah, and the tremendous performance doesn't hurt either.


Randy


----------



## Justin73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin73* /forum/post/11438894
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info Bob. I will try this as soon as I get home from work.
> 
> 
> Justin



Thanks Bob. It worked like a charm. Do you think it would also work on a Blu-Ray or an HD-DVD player. I don't know if these next generation players can output 480i over HDMI, do they?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin73* /forum/post/11442816
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. It worked like a charm. Do you think it would also work on a Blu-Ray or an HD-DVD player. I don't know if these next generation players can output 480i over HDMI, do they?



I believe they can, and for standard DVD playback yes this is the way to set them up.


Of course for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs played on those players you want to send high-resolution video to the Anthem rather than 480i.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/11441923
> 
> 
> I received a replacement D2 on Friday (also with version 1.2) and everything seems to be working fine. It's good to know that Anthem is serious about customer service and really stands behind their products. Makes me feel good about my purchase. Oh yeah, and the tremendous performance doesn't hurt either.
> 
> 
> Randy



That's great to hear Randy! With any luck the returned unit will help Anthem manufacturing get on top of this so fewer units get out the door with this issue.

--Bob


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin73* /forum/post/11442816
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. It worked like a charm. Do you think it would also work on a Blu-Ray or an HD-DVD player. I don't know if these next generation players can output 480i over HDMI, do they?



All of the Sony/Pioneer BD players do 480i over HDMI. The Samsung BD player does not. The LG combo player does not. None of the HDDVD players do it.


Both the new Samsung dual-format player and the Toshiba XA2 use the HQV Reon chip which is at least close to the performance of the Gennum VXP if not on par.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/11444565
> 
> 
> All of the Sony/Pioneer BD players do 480i over HDMI. The Samsung BD player does not. The LG combo player does not. None of the HDDVD players do it.
> 
> 
> Both the new Samsung dual-format player and the Toshiba XA2 use the HQV Reon chip which is at least close to the performance of the Gennum VXP if not on par.



Thanks for the clarification!


-----------------------------


If a particular HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player is not capable of producing HDMI 480i properly the options for standard DVD playback are:


1) Let the player do the de-interlacing and send HDMI 480p to the Anthem.


2) Hook up Component cables from the player (if possible) and use Component 480i to the Anthem for standard DVD playback.


3) Let the player both de-interlace and scale the standard DVD content and send THAT to the Anthem.


4) Use a different player for standard DVD playback.


The result will depend upon the quality of the de-interlacing, and scaling, of the player.


Please note that it is ALSO possible for players to screw up the seemingly simple task of generating HDMI 480i output from a standard DVD disc. If you happen to have a player that does that, then 480i may not be your best option.

--Bob


----------



## Justin73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/11444565
> 
> 
> All of the Sony/Pioneer BD players do 480i over HDMI. The Samsung BD player does not. The LG combo player does not. None of the HDDVD players do it.
> 
> 
> Both the new Samsung dual-format player and the Toshiba XA2 use the HQV Reon chip which is at least close to the performance of the Gennum VXP if not on par.



Too bad about the Samsung and Toshiba players not being able to send 480i over HDMI. These are the 2 machines that I am seriously considering to add to my system. I have also looked at the Sony BDPS300, but reading this thread, I may hold off on this one.


----------



## Justin73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11446694
> 
> 
> Thanks for the clarification!
> 
> 
> -----------------------------
> 
> 
> If a particular HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player is not capable of producing HDMI 480i properly the options for standard DVD playback are:
> 
> 
> 1) Let the player do the de-interlacing and send HDMI 480p to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> 2) Hook up Component cables from the player (if possible) and use Component 480i to the Anthem for standard DVD playback.
> 
> 
> 3) Let the player both de-interlace and scale the standard DVD content and send THAT to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> 4) Use a different player for standard DVD playback.
> 
> 
> The result will depend upon the quality of the de-interlacing, and scaling, of the player.
> 
> 
> Please note that it is ALSO possible for players to screw up the seemingly simple task of generating HDMI 480i output from a standard DVD disc. If you happen to have a player that does that, then 480i may not be your best option.
> 
> --Bob



I think using a different player for standard DVD playback is the way to go. Preferably one that does 480i over HDMI and reasonably priced. Any recommendations?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin73* /forum/post/11450907
> 
> 
> I think using a different player for standard DVD playback is the way to go. Preferably one that does 480i over HDMI and reasonably priced. Any recommendations?



The Oppo 980 is $169 and does flawless 480i over HDMI. Extras include SACD/DVD-Audio/HDCD/Divx/Xvid support. Or even an Oppo 970 ($20 cheaper).


----------



## cecaa850

I went the OPPO route myself. That way the kids won't have to mess with the HDDVD or Blueray players.


----------



## Justin73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/11450972
> 
> 
> The Oppo 980 is $169 and does flawless 480i over HDMI. Extras include SACD/DVD-Audio/HDCD/Divx/Xvid support. Or even an Oppo 970 ($20 cheaper).



The Oppo DV-980H looks to be an unbelievable value. Tons of features and a 6ft HDMI cable included! I just did some checking and I can get one of these for a little over $200CDN with shipping and taxes. Not bad.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin73* /forum/post/11450839
> 
> 
> Too bad about the Samsung and Toshiba players not being able to send 480i over HDMI. These are the 2 machines that I am seriously considering to add to my system. I have also looked at the Sony BDPS300, but reading this thread, I may hold off on this one.



I wouldn't feel too bad considering both have the HQV Reon to do the deinterlacing/scaling for you. But yes, I agree, it would be nice to have the option. The Samsung dual-format player has yet to be released so I suppose there's still a chance it might offer 480i/HDMI afterall.


----------



## budeone

I have a DBS hd box and the avm-50.


The installer just installed the new 5lnb dish and was setting up the box for me. It is not the dvr just the regular hd box going into the avm-50.


He told me to mark 480I 480P 720P and 1080I with native on.


Is that correct?


----------



## cpcat

Sounds right to me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/11452539
> 
> 
> I have a DBS hd box and the avm-50.
> 
> 
> The installer just installed the new 5lnb dish and was setting up the box for me. It is not the dvr just the regular hd box going into the avm-50.
> 
> 
> He told me to mark 480I 480P 720P and 1080I with native on.
> 
> 
> Is that correct?



Yes (except you don't really need 480p). Ideally you want your DBS box to keep its hands off the TV signal and just pass on to the Anthem whatever comes in on any given channel without changing it at all.


For standard TV channels that will always and only be 480i (which is why you don't really need 480p in that list).


For HDTV channels that will be either 720p or 1080i according to the particular program being broadcast at the moment.


By selecting all the options and also the "native" option you are telling the box to simply "pass through" whatever comes in and send it to the Anthem without modification.


The Anthem will then do any de-interlacing and scaling required -- and will do it way better than the DBS box could possibly do it.


==========================


EDIT: In addition, your DBS box should be told it is connected to a 16:9 TV, and that when it receives any 4:3 content on standard TV channels it should fill the screen with that content left to right. Although this LOOKS LIKE you are telling the box to stretch the image left and right, in fact you are telling it to do nothing to the image, and in particular to NOT generate Pillar Box bars on either side of the image. [The DBS box does no actual stretching. It's the same number of pixels on each line, but a 16:9 TV interprets them as "fatter".] Let the Anthem generate any Pillar Box bars you need.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11434816
> 
> 
> Jim,
> 
> There are some pretty talented people working on Anthem's Room-EQ solution. It is not likely to be your everyday parametric EQ. They know full well the stand alone high end stuff they'll be competing against.
> 
> 
> In any event, all the details will be out at Cedia in just a couple weeks.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Jim E & Hank (that's a great price). Speaking with the Audyssey Sound Equalizer folks the bar is set VERY high. Even though I imagine (good imagination) it will be better than the Anthem solution, the remaining significant issue is the AVM-50 folks are forced to find a similar alternative if left in the lurch.


Considering you could get more than a VSX-94TXH + a PIONEER BDP-94HD for the delta price of the AVM-50 to the D2, with the latest Audyssey solution built in (I know apples and oranges). Actually you could get 2 94s street price - hey double the processing










I'm obviously griping based on lack of primary source information and engineering detail why the AVM-50 can't use a PC separately for non-runtime calibration (please stop the extra processor robotic answer folks, it's specious without the details).


Maybe my whining (I admit it) is why I haven't been answered by tech support in 3 weeks on start up color space issues.


My sig block still applies but my confidence erodes daily.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11454824
> 
> 
> I haven't been answered by tech support in 3 weeks on start up color space issues.



I think you have two things deflecting Tech Supports

focus and neither of them are you










1) Vacation


2) Getting Ready for CEDIA and New Announcements


At least that is my two cent guess.


----------



## cecaa850

I have a question about the 12v remote turn on plugs. Do they stay hot as long as the processor is on? If so, would they run a 12v fan such as is used in a computer? I think you know where I'm going with this.......


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11456919
> 
> 
> I think you have two things deflecting Tech Supports
> 
> focus and neither of them are you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Vacation
> 
> 
> 2) Getting Ready for CEDIA and New Announcements
> 
> 
> At least that is my two cent guess.




They can't answer anything since they are all working on Jose_L unit...


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/11457408
> 
> 
> I have a question about the 12v remote turn on plugs. Do they stay hot as long as the processor is on? If so, would they run a 12v fan such as is used in a computer? I think you know where I'm going with this.......



If you try it, let us know the result. Note that only the #3 trigger has 200ma capacity to power a fan. The others are only rated for 50ma. Even then, check the fan specs.


I'm using a Xantech AC1 (AC outlet controlled by a 12v trigger) as it only draws 12ma of trigger and I wanted to minimize the load on the D2. I have a wall wart plugged into the AC1 which provides 1000ma of 12VDC to drive a string of fans. I'm currently driving 3 fans off this setup - a 120mm fan flat on top of the D2 case, plus 2x80mm fans behind a 2U vent pushing external air into the rack underneath the D2. Plus I draw exhaust air out of the rack with a 110 cfm inline fan located in the attic, with a 4" duct to the rack top. The D2 case is now cool to the touch, even after several hours of operation.


----------



## tbui57

DrHank,


I took your advice and wait for the VW60 (thank you). The VW60 spec is out. Forgive my knowledge, is there anything in the new VW60 (besides panel convergence) that standout from the VW50 ? Can I expect that the VW60 24 fps will work with anthem AVM50 ?


Also, there are announcements from Anthem next week in Cedia ? Do you know what new features will be announced for AVM50 ?


I would like to buy the VW60 + AVM50 system before the end of this year.


Thanks again.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/11457819
> 
> 
> DrHank,
> 
> 
> I took your advice and wait for the VW60 (thank you). The VW60 spec is out. Forgive my knowledge, is there anything in the new VW60 (besides panel convergence) that standout from the VW50 ? Can I expect that the VW60 24 fps will work with anthem AVM50 ?
> 
> 
> Also, there are announcements from Anthem next week in Cedia ? Do you know what new features will be announced for AVM50 ?
> 
> 
> I would like to buy the VW60 + AVM50 system before the end of this year.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.


*If the VW60 Specs are out - WHERE ARE THEY*







?


BTW - if the VW60 has panel convergence that is awesome.


I expect - but obviously can't prove it - that the VW60 at 1080p/24

should work great with the Anthem.


I have no idea what Anthem might announce at CEDIA other

than the EQ feature which is only available on the D2 not

the AVM50.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/11457408
> 
> 
> I have a question about the 12v remote turn on plugs. Do they stay hot as long as the processor is on? If so, would they run a 12v fan such as is used in a computer? I think you know where I'm going with this.......



Yes, and yes. So long as you have activated the particular trigger in the Setup menu. Some people here are using them that way now.


Note that Trigger 3 has a higher current rating than the other two. If you are going to use a trigger to directly power a box fan, make sure you get a fan that operates within the specified current (see the Manual).


Or, to be sure, you can get a type of power strip that accepts a 12 volt trigger (wall power flows when the trigger is live). Plug a 12 volt power brick into that power strip and power the fan from the power brick instead of from the trigger.


There are also thermostatically controlled cooling fans (more expensive, and perhaps noisier since they are intended for setups stashed away in separate spaces). Attach them to a permanent source of power and they turn on when the space needs cooling and keep running AFTER you turn things off until the space finishes cooling down.

--Bob


----------



## tbui57




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11457865
> 
> *If the VW60 Specs are out - WHERE ARE THEY*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> 
> BTW - if the VW60 has panel convergence that is awesome.
> 
> 
> I expect - but obviously can't prove it - that the VW60 at 1080p/24
> 
> should work great with the Anthem.
> 
> 
> I have no idea what Anthem might announce at CEDIA other
> 
> than the EQ feature which is only available on the D2 not
> 
> the AVM50.



drhankz,

The operating manual can be found in here
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=898605 

There are a few sites in Germany posting the VW60 specs. I am not sure if it is accurate and contains the details you are looking for.


Regards


----------



## LEVESQUE

tbui57


You should also take a look at the new JVC HD100 that is announced with a NATIVE CR (no iris...) of 30000:1. The JVC HD-1 is also the best projector for the price right now, with 15000:1 and no iris... I made the switch from the Sony Ruby VPL-VW100 and NEVER looked back. The HD-1 is a better machine. And the JVC HD100 will probably catch Sony with their pants down...


The new Sony VW60 will still be using an iris and still won't match the NATIVE CR of the JVCs... After living without an iris for almost a year, I can't go back.


And the JVC HD-1 is working perfectly at 1080p24 with my Anthem D2 and PS3...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/11457949
> 
> 
> drhankz,
> 
> The operating manual can be found in here
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=898605
> 
> There are a few sites in Germany posting the VW60 specs. I am not sure if it is accurate and contains the details you are looking for.
> 
> 
> Regards



Thanks - I got the manual - but I don't see anything

in it about panel convergence.


----------



## 3no

I see the VW60 (and presumably other projectors) are supporting HDMI control for power/standby. Any word on when/whether Anthem will support this?


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/11457781
> 
> 
> If you try it, let us know the result. Note that only the #3 trigger has 200ma capacity to power a fan. The others are only rated for 50ma. Even then, check the fan specs.



Thanks, it looks like 200 mA will only run 1 fan, I may go to plan "B".


----------



## davidhoenig

Hi All!


Does anyone here have Verizon FiOS TV and the D2? I'm having a lot of HDMI handshaking issues between the two. Frequently, the FiOS set-top box resets its resolution to 480i due to handshaking issues. Also, since Verizon pushed a firmware upgrade, updating the channel guide, every time I set my D2 input to FiOS (the first time), it causes the FiOS box to go through a hard reboot and resets the resolution as well. After the hard reboot, they usually can handshake properly. It's a pretty annoying problem.


My D2 is running an early 1.11 rev.


Anyone else seen this or have some suggestions?


Thanks,

Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/11459381
> 
> 
> Hi All!
> 
> 
> Does anyone here have Verizon FiOS TV and the D2? I'm having a lot of HDMI handshaking issues between the two. Frequently, the FiOS set-top box resets its resolution to 480i due to handshaking issues. Also, since Verizon pushed a firmware upgrade, updating the channel guide, every time I set my D2 input to FiOS (the first time), it causes the FiOS box to go through a hard reboot and resets the resolution as well. After the hard reboot, they usually can handshake properly. It's a pretty annoying problem.
> 
> 
> My D2 is running an early 1.11 rev.
> 
> 
> Anyone else seen this or have some suggestions?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave



I believe this is the second report we've had of such problems since that new Verizon software was pushed out.


You should probably give Anthem tech support a call/email and ask for the latest software (probably V1.12s). That newer software has a completely rewritten HDMI portion and may be more robust in the face of whatever that new Verizon software is doing. Tell Anthem about your recent problems with the new Verizon software please. This one may need some special attention on their part.


As for your problems BEFORE that Verizon update, Verizon uses Motorola boxes that are also used by cable providers such as Comcast. These boxes are notorious for their lousy HDMI implementation. One common theme is that the box resets itself to its defaults whenever it gets confused in any fashion.


The first thing you should try is to upgrade/shorten the HDMI cable from the FIOS box to the Anthem. The HDMI driver circuit Motorola uses is ridiculously sensitive to anything less than a pristine perfect connection.


Next, make sure you have Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO and Auto-Dig = NO set in the Anthem for that input. This simplifies what the FIOS box has to do each time it does the HDMI handshake.


Another common solution with these Motorola boxes is to give up on their HDMI and switch to Component video and optical audio connections to the Anthem. Be prepared to have to recalibrate the video input level settings for best picture quality in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Picture menu). The best settings for HDMI input and Component input will likely be different.


Also, if you set the box to only put out one video resolution to the Anthem, it won't have to re-do the HDMI handshake as often. Of course this means you will not get as good video as you could get.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11458024
> 
> 
> Thanks - I got the manual - but I don't see anything
> 
> in it about panel convergence.



Pg 51.. under Panel Alignment


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/11459807
> 
> 
> Pg 51.. under Panel Alignment



Thanks Marc - I did a document word search

looking for "CONV" and only found the Convert

words and no CONVergence words.


I never thought of alignment










It pays to actually READ - Thanks Again.


A nice feature on a low priced PJ.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/11459807
> 
> 
> Pg 51.. under Panel Alignment



It seems clear from the description that this is a digital adjustment which implies a shift of the entire panel by an integral number of pixels. We'll still be at the mercy of the factory's mechanical alignment for roll, pitch and yaw, for lack of better terms.


I only mention this because initial Ruby production had significant alignment problems (and no digital adjustment). If the factory gets the the panels perfectly square to each other and coplanar on the VW60 from the start, then the digital adjustment will get to within 1/2 pixel width across the field, which isn't visible from more than 1/3 screen width or so.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/11460064
> 
> 
> It seems clear from the description that this is a digital adjustment which implies a shift of the entire panel by an integral number of pixels. We'll still be at the mercy of the factory's mechanical alignment for roll, pitch and yaw, for lack of better terms.
> 
> 
> I only mention this because initial Ruby production had significant alignment problems (and no digital adjustment). If the factory gets the the panels perfectly square to each other and coplanar on the VW60 from the start, then the digital adjustment will get to within 1/2 pixel width across the field, which isn't visible from more than 1/3 screen width or so.



Page 51 of the manual does seem to indicate

you can shift in both the X and Y axis. Just like

CRT PJ's the TUBES have to be aligned in the

Z axis [PITCH axis] for lack of a better term.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11460270
> 
> 
> Page 51 of the manual does seem to indicate
> 
> you can shift in both the X and Y axis. Just like
> 
> CRT PJ's the TUBES have to be aligned in the
> 
> Z axis [PITCH axis] for lack of a better term.



The adjustment, if it works like a previous 3-panel LCD I owned, allows you to shift the image on each panel along either the X or Y axis by an integral number of pixels (as the panel isn't actually moving). But beyond that, each panel can also be misaligned to the others by rotation around the Z axis ("roll"), rotation around the X axis ("pitch") or rotation around the Y axis ("yaw"). Each of those alignment problems would produce an offset that would vary across the field, so the digital shift would be unable to adjust for it.


As you point out, the convergence adjustments on CRTs were much more sophisticated (and difficult to get right) and could compensate for pincushion, etc.


----------



## 3no

...but we seem to be getting a little off topic.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/11460408
> 
> 
> The adjustment, if it works like a previous 3-panel LCD I owned, allows you to shift the image on each panel along either the X or Y axis by an integral number of pixels (as the panel isn't actually moving). But beyond that, each panel can also be misaligned to the others by rotation around the Z axis ("roll"), rotation around the X axis ("pitch") or rotation around the Y axis ("yaw"). Each of those alignment problems would produce an offset that would vary across the field, so the digital shift would be unable to adjust for it.
> 
> 
> As you point out, the convergence adjustments on CRTs were much more sophisticated (and difficult to get right) and could compensate for pincushion, etc.



Speaking of GREAT OLD CRT PJs - I have some holding

down my cellar floor. I wish I could get rid of them.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11456919
> 
> 
> I think you have two things deflecting Tech Supports
> 
> focus and neither of them are you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Vacation
> 
> 
> 2) Getting Ready for CEDIA and New Announcements
> 
> 
> At least that is my two cent guess.



I also think so since it's been 2 weeks and I have not heard back from them either.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/11460482
> 
> 
> ...but we seem to be getting a little off topic.



WELL --- SPANK BOTH OF US


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11460510
> 
> 
> WELL --- SPANK BOTH OF US



my post was an admission of guilt, not an accusation


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/11441428
> 
> 
> FWIW, I went from 1.12s back to 1.11e because of problems I had with 1.12s (JVC D-VHS no longer would handshake... no audio/video on startup from the D2 on occasion).
> 
> 
> Going backward (from 1.12s), I just did a factory init before installing 1.11e (not sure this step is necessary) and after installation of 1.11e I used a settings backup made when 1.11e was installed (just before installing 1.12s) and everything seems fine... been running a month or better this way (JVC D-VHS working again and never a startup issue).



How do you do a factory initilization?


Can you email me 1.11e since Anthem is not responding?


Thanks


John

[email protected]


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/11460541
> 
> 
> my post was an admission of guilt, not an accusation



And I am admitting to equal GUILT and in need of discipline


----------



## jayray

Noticed this problem while fast forwarding my Tosh XA2. When I restart the video, I get a white noise from my back speakers. I have my AVM 50 setup with 7.1 speakers. This noise occurs only in the rears and stops as soon as the video starts again. Any ideas?


I also get 96 khz displayed whenever I play an hd dvd but not with my ps3. Bob made reference to turning this option off in the Tosh but I can't find in the menu where to do this. I think that's what Bob was saying.


thanks,

John


----------



## Nevr2Big

I love my D2 (much more than my old Lexicon I dare say) but have been given notice by spouse that its use after 9pm particularly on school nights is now verbotten. So now I have been placed in the position of having to find a way to by-pass its sound output to my speakers.


I'm thinking about purchasing a pair of wireless surround sound headphones to keep the peace. Most need either a digital (optical) input at no more than 48kHz, or analog coaxial L/R input to feed the headphone base.


Looking the back of the D2, it would appear that the optical digital out is not an option.


It looks like I could use the D2 zone 2 analog outs but may have some problems if I am trying to watch a BluRay disk while muting my speakers sound and listening on headphones. If I read the manual correctly, it appears I need to manually copy the Main path to Zone 2 to get this to work. I guess I would then select zone 2 while playing a movie and keep the volume to main speakers to minimum (or mute - unless that mutes zone 2 as well).


If I read correctly, the D2 will down-mix to 2 channel stereo so I'm not sure how great the listening experience is going to be.


Can anyone confirm my plan will work - or better yet - is there a better way to do this? I have thought about plugging the headphone base int the D2 front headphone jack (and set menus to mute speakers when jack engaged) but this seemed less desirable.


Thanks.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/11464880
> 
> 
> I love my D2 (much more than my old Lexicon I dare say) but have been given notice by spouse that its use after 9pm particularly on school nights is now verbotten. So now I have been placed in the position of having to find a way to by-pass its sound output to my speakers.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about purchasing a pair of wireless surround sound headphones to keep the peace. Most need either a digital (optical) input at no more than 48kHz, or analog coaxial L/R input to feed the headphone base.
> 
> 
> Looking the back of the D2, it would appear that the optical digital out is not an option.
> 
> 
> It looks like I could use the D2 zone 2 analog outs but may have some problems if I am trying to watch a BluRay disk while muting my speakers sound and listening on headphones. If I read the manual correctly, it appears I need to manually copy the Main path to Zone 2 to get this to work. I guess I would then select zone 2 while playing a movie and keep the volume to main speakers to minimum (or mute - unless that mutes zone 2 as well).
> 
> 
> If I read correctly, the D2 will down-mix to 2 channel stereo so I'm not sure how great the listening experience is going to be.
> 
> 
> Can anyone confirm my plan will work - or better yet - is there a better way to do this? I have thought about plugging the headphone base int the D2 front headphone jack (and set menus to mute speakers when jack engaged) but this seemed less desirable.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I think you might be making this more complicated than necessary.


If you just use the headphone out, you ARE getting a analog coaxial L/R output to plug into the wireless headphone base. You MAY need an adapter, but the headphone outputs are high quality.


I would just use this (and set it to mute the speaker out). That way it's plug and play. A device such as the D2 does NOT have lousy headphone outputs like some cheap receiver.


In other words, you aren't going to get better sound by using Zone 2 analog outputs.


----------



## Shrike645

I'd probably just use the headphone jack too but you don't need zone 1 powered up for the copy to zone 2. I copy zone 1 digital connection from the dvd player to zone 2 for a different audio system in the same room.


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/11458954
> 
> 
> Thanks, it looks like 200 mA will only run 1 fan, I may go to plan "B".



In conversations with Nick about the triggers he told me that the 3 triggers total load can not exceed 300ma. It did not matter where the loads were connected or their amounts. So you could have 3 100ma loads, or 2 150ma loads etc. It was just easier (and maybe less confusing)







to label it the way they did.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11460510
> 
> 
> WELL --- SPANK BOTH OF US



You guys sound like a bunch of Idaho congressmen










Now to keep of tangent, I have a 60 on order, but I thought it was the Diamon - silly me. To keep the tangent going are there major differences? It appears the cheaper one has almost double the contrast

















Tbui57 - Don't buy an AVM-50. I might have one at a good price for you.


Tim


----------



## Tim Winders

I don't have anything to say, just couldn't let this thread go for 24hours without a post.


Oh - I ordered my D2 last week. Hope to have it soon. ;-)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim,

Everyone's on tenterhooks waiting for whatever gets announced/shown at CEDIA -- and whether that means Anthem will finally make it's public release of the new software!


Just curious; what did they quote you as delivery time for your D2?


A new batch of mascots is in the incubator.

--Bob


----------



## audiman

Anyone here had success playing sacd's thru the PS3 (hdmi) at 5 ch 176khz ?


I only get 6 ch 48 khz. Looks like it is dowrezed. I've checked all the sound optins in the PS3's sound options (manual setting).


Can the D2 handle it ? 2 ch @ 176 doesnt work either.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/11478389
> 
> 
> Anyone here had success playing sacd's thru the PS3 (hdmi) at 5 ch 176khz ?
> 
> 
> I only get 6 ch 48 khz. Looks like it is dowrezed. I've checked all the sound optins in the PS3's sound options (manual setting).
> 
> 
> Can the D2 handle it ? 2 ch @ 176 doesnt work either.



Make sure you have the PS3's output video resolution set to 720p or higher. HDMI audio is multiplexed inside the HDMI video. That means the maximum bandwidth available for audio is a percentage of the current video bandwidth. Sending 480i or 480p to the D2 will require the PS3 to cut back on the SACD audio over HDMI.


I forget what max bandwidth has been reported here for a PS3 playing SACD to the D2 over HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11478050
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> Everyone's on tenterhooks waiting for whatever gets announced/shown at CEDIA -- and whether that means Anthem will finally make it's public release of the new software!



And ROOM EQ!!!!


----------



## slots1

Tim,

Good luck. My wife (yes, she even goes into the theater) and I just watched four hours of exciting, in hidef, us open tennis from NYC. The pic was so sharp. This afternoon I again watched and listened to my old stand by, Fifth element in super-bit. Then a tivo recording of Enterprise in hidef. Yummy...

Yes, I am still waiting to jump into hd dvd and blue ray. The D2 makes me want to wait a little longer. Not clear where the war will go. So stupid on their part, or greedy. I used to buy about 80-100 dvd's a year. In the last year I bought maybe 10.

Cannot wait for the Anthem announcement at Cedia.

Gerry


----------



## slots1

Bob

By the way Lawrence on super bit is not bad. I am sure much better on blue ray.


----------



## Tim Winders

Bob - I wasn't quoted a specific delivery on the D2. He said they were taking about 10 days, but, that's subject to change on a seemingly hourly basis.







I, too, am very excited about what mmight be announced at CEDIA. It would be even nicer if Anthem offered a special deal for recent new and recent adopters.










slots1 - Yes, I'm very excited. The hope is to simplify with the D2. I had an AVP2 and HD Leeza. They both worked very well. I had macros programmed into my remote (original Pronto TSU1000) to change the video inputs on the HD Leeza, audio inputs on the AVP2, set the surround mode, etc. Everything worked great. Except when it didn't.







If the input on the HD Leeza didn't change for some reason (moved the remote before it was done) then everyone would get very frustrated. This problem goes away with the D2. I just hope the audio is as good with the D2 as we had with the AVP2.


BTW - anyone want to buy a pristine condition HD Leeza?











Rob - room EQ would be very cool. If it really is only $300, I'd be all over it.


=== Tim


----------



## Milt99

slots1,

Personally I think foregoing HDM until the "war" is decided is denying yourself needlessly.

Neither format is going anywhere anytime soon and in fact we may be stuck with 2 formats for good.

If you don't want to invest in media, go Netflix.

Right now Amazon has great deals on players from both sides

The D2 is _made_ for HDM.

The improvement in PQ\\AQ since I upgraded my D1 still hasn't worn off.

I'm impressed every single time.

I most likely would not have upgraded my D1 without first having HDM.

Many cheap players have good enough to excellent up-conversion of SD and the D1 already has DTS,DD and PLIIx handled.

I know the above is MO only but really you're not getting the full potential of your investment.

I would wager that no one with a hi-def capable system and the D2 has any regrets about getting into HD DVD, BR or both.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/11482665
> 
> 
> slots1,
> 
> Personally I think foregoing HDM until the "war" is decided is denying yourself needlessly.
> 
> Neither format is going anywhere anytime soon and in fact we may be stuck with 2 formats for good.
> 
> If you don't want to invest in media, go Netflix.
> 
> Right now Amazon has great deals on players from both sides
> 
> The D2 is _made_ for HDM.
> 
> The improvement in PQ\\AQ since I upgraded my D1 still hasn't worn off.
> 
> I'm impressed every single time.
> 
> I most likely would not have upgraded my D1 without first having HDM.
> 
> Many cheap players have good enough to excellent up-conversion of SD and the D1 already has DTS,DD and PLIIx handled.
> 
> I know the above is MO only but really you're not getting the full potential of your investment.
> 
> I would wager that no one with a hi-def capable system and the D2 has any regrets about getting into HD DVD, BR or both.



Actually, this isn't just your opinion, as I am sure that the majority of us would agree with what you say here.


I certainly do!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I have a Pioneer Elite standard DVD player with excellent upconversion.


But it can't send native resolution to my plasma, and as good as it is, the de-interlacing in the D2 is better.


I have Comcast digital cable with, most of the time, an extraordinarily high quality feed (clean imaging) for SDTV, but of course the Comcast cable box is just crap for de-interlacing and scaling. HDTV is also quite good, but the thing that keeps amazing me is how good my SDTV feed is so long as I don't expect the Comcast box to DO anything to that signal.


For both of these, the D2 is just plain wonderful for video.


And of course the audio of the D2 is pretty much as good as it gets for home theater -- barring truly exotic configurations that most people set up poorly anyway.


So I feel the D2 has been well worth the investment EVEN THOUGH I have yet to buy either an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player.


Personally I think HD-DVD and Blu-Ray will start showing signs of decent engineering around this Christmas -- maybe just before, maybe just after. I'm leaning towards Blu-Ray, but I'm not willing to buy until "player profile 1.1" and DTS-HD MA decoding in the player both ship and have been evaluated. I'm eager to see what Pioneer puts out to compete against the new Denons for example. I'd love to see Oppo enter the game as well but that's probably a couple years off. I.e., buyers will still be paying a price premium, for at least another year, and the "sweet spot" of features is still up in the air as regards the universal nature of these players -- playing other media on them as well.


So I'll probaby break down and get something towards Christmas. By which time there will also be a nice collection of discs available.


Now as ALL displays move to 1080p/120Hz, and as chips like the new REON stuff become the defacto standard in players, the unique video processing advantages of the D2 will be less of a factor. For example, you won't need the D2's custom output resolutions. But by then the D2 has ALREADY paid its way in my opinion, and it won't play second fiddle to these new product configurations. It won't be obsolete. And it will STILL be surprising me with how good SDTV can look. So what's to lose?

--Bob


----------



## tbui57




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11465669
> 
> 
> You guys sound like a bunch of Idaho congressmen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to keep of tangent, I have a 60 on order, but I thought it was the Diamon - silly me. To keep the tangent going are there major differences? It appears the cheaper one has almost double the contrast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tbui57 - Don't buy an AVM-50. I might have one at a good price for you.
> 
> 
> Tim



Hi Tim,


May I know the reason why you want to get rid of your AVM50 ? and what pre/pro are you replacing with ? Please PM me with your price. Thanks.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/11479496
> 
> 
> And ROOM EQ!!!!



The word from Anthem is that they will not have the D2 with EQ function at CEDIA or during their training course. They will "talk" about it but your guess is as good as mine as to what that really means.










Jim


----------



## Southern Spy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/11485266
> 
> 
> The word from Anthem is that they will not have the D2 with EQ function at CEDIA or during their training course.
> 
> Jim



The delay is completely understandable. I hear that the Engineering/R&D staff has been on vacation. And now that he has returned, they have assigned him to fix Josie_L's unit.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/11485266
> 
> 
> The word from Anthem is that they will not have the D2 with EQ function at CEDIA or during their training course. They will "talk" about it but your guess is as good as mine as to what that really means.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jim



That is very disappointing.


----------



## earwit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/11482665
> 
> 
> slots1,
> 
> Personally I think foregoing HDM until the "war" is decided is denying yourself needlessly.
> 
> Neither format is going anywhere anytime soon and in fact we may be stuck with 2 formats for good.
> 
> If you don't want to invest in media, go Netflix.
> 
> Right now Amazon has great deals on players from both sides
> 
> The D2 is _made_ for HDM.
> 
> The improvement in PQ\\AQ since I upgraded my D1 still hasn't worn off.
> 
> I'm impressed every single time.
> 
> I most likely would not have upgraded my D1 without first having HDM.
> 
> Many cheap players have good enough to excellent up-conversion of SD and the D1 already has DTS,DD and PLIIx handled.
> 
> I know the above is MO only but really you're not getting the full potential of your investment.
> 
> I would wager that no one with a hi-def capable system and the D2 has any regrets about getting into HD DVD, BR or both.




I couldn't agree more...Since most of us on this forum are fortunate enough

to afford equipment like a D2 /AVM50, and who knows how much more on

amps, speakers, room set-up etc, the cost of a PS3 and a Toshiba Hd-player

in relation is minimal ..


Overall the audio and video is only as good as the source, and both HD-Dvd,

and Blue-ray blow away anthing on standard upconverted DVD, or HD TV.

One of the main things that has always differentiated the D2 from anything

else out there is how the D2, via HDMI can handle the new high def formats now. Working better then ever with 1.12s


If you follow the HD format wars, it's going to be years, if ever before

anything is settled. Since you already have one of the best preamp/processors on the planet , your doing yourself a great dis-service

waiting for something to be settled, or updates in sound formats..


Bob


----------



## slots1

I waited to get my Pioneer until it did both SACD and DVD-A and all dvd's. I will be happy to buy a dual with all sound features. As Bob said hopefully around xmas.

Gerry


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/11483628
> 
> 
> Hi Tim,
> 
> 
> May I know the reason why you want to get rid of your AVM50 ? and what pre/pro are you replacing with ? Please PM me with your price. Thanks.



All hinging on CEDIA news. I'll sell for about a third off what I bought with all original everything (and latest software







). I'll probably hang out with the low end Yammi RX-Z11 and rig up 4 more effects speakers until the D3 comes out. If the D3 isn't in the pipeline now, it may be a long wait, and although I don't mind selling at a better than fair price, I don't want to give it away at close to upgrade time or wait 6+ months after the D3 is announced for the AVM to be upgradeable to it, if it will be at all.


Bob's comments that soon all sources will be 1080p (60 and/or 24) and my next projector will be 1080p/120 does cause a wake up call, since I did get the anthem and the 50 specifically more for video than audio.


----------



## Milt99

Rob,earwit,

Thanks for confirming my impressions and opinion.

IMO, Anthem has accomplished quite a feat with their pre/pros,

certainly the most complex piece of A\\V gear to create and with in-house software!

I'm in the software arena so to speak so I have more than an inkling of what is involved.

I know this thread isn't meant for cheerleading but dang,

the D2 upgrade has been a tangible step up from the processing in my pj

and the increased audio bandwith provided by HDMI is just as good.


The EQ "delay" is very disappointing but as was said regarding the D2,

it will be worth the wait.

Hopefully by December.

Alain has been quiet lately, beta testing perhaps?


----------



## ekb

Can the D2 and AVM 50 convert a component 720p input to component 1080i output? Someone in another thread is looking for such a capability.


Ed


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ekb* /forum/post/11491938
> 
> 
> Can the D2 and AVM 50 convert a component 720p input to component 1080i output? Someone in another thread is looking for such a capability.
> 
> 
> Ed



Yes.


Most posters here are using the Anthems in HDMI configurations, but its ability to handle Component is quite complete as well.


There's a writeup in the first post of this thread that gives a pretty complete picture of what the D2 and AVM-50 can do.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim,

Keep in mind that SDTV and even HDTV will not provide 1080p content.


And the availability of reasonably priced 1080p/120Hz displays that actually do this right is still a ways off.


Your Anthem is going to be the cornerstone of video bliss for quite a while yet.


----------------------------------------


As to HD-DVD and Blu-Ray, I'm not saying it's a bad move to get into it now. I'm saying it is an "early adopter" move. Early adopters have all the fun, but they also have the pain of replacing "unfinished" product technologies too quickly. I happen to think HD-DVD and Blu-Ray will be just about ready to stabilize at the end of this year. And I'm willing to wait.


Even the format war doesn't bother me so much as the knowledge that the manufacturers are trying to game their customers into buying "throw away" product.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't have any inside knowledge on the Room EQ stuff, but I suspect Anthem is going to have to let the cat out of the bag pretty completely at CEDIA whether or not they actually choose to demonstrate it there.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

I just took in my D2 to my dealer today because of video problems, and was told that the video scaler is bad. It will have to be sent back to Anthem for repair.

My questions are - has anyone out there had to send back a D2 for repair?

How long did it take to get it back?

Am I the only oone out there who thinks the D2's video processing is over-rated?

During the days I was waiting to hear from Nick at Anthem if they had any suggestions for a quick fix, I was using my D2 for audio only, hooking up my denon 2930ci and dish vip622 hdmi's directly into my samsung dlp hdtv and running multichannel audio thru the D2. I noticed very little, if any, loss of video quality. I did notice that my D2 ran much cooler. It was still warm, but not hot enough to fry an egg on like it runs when using the video processing also.

I have to wonder how much energy I was using for video for a marginal improvement, and if the high heat contributed to the demise of the scaler.

I am seriously considering using the D2 for audio only after I get the unit back.

Tom


----------



## Shrike645

Probably not much help but I had to take my D1 in for repair. I work just up the street from Anthem so I dropped it off and I had it upgraded to the D2 at the same time. It took 4 weeks before they shipped it back to me.


I do think there is a large improvement in the video though.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tom,

What was the failure symptom in your D2's scalar?


------------------------------------


We've had a number of posters here who were not impressed, initially, with the video performance of their D2, but in almost every case we've been able to walk them through the process of improving their video setup to better see what the D2 is capable of doing.


It takes some time, but it IS worth the effort. We've had poster after poster state that here.

--Bob


----------



## ekb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11492454
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> 
> Most posters here are using the Anthems in HDMI configurations, but its ability to handle Component is quite complete as well.
> 
> 
> There's a writeup in the first post of this thread that gives a pretty complete picture of what the D2 and AVM-50 can do.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.










Ed


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11491373
> 
> 
> All hinging on CEDIA news. I'll sell for about a third off what I bought with all original everything (and latest software
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I'll probably hang out with the low end Yammi RX-Z11 and rig up 4 more effects speakers until the D3 comes out. If the D3 isn't in the pipeline now, it may be a long wait, and although I don't mind selling at a better than fair price, I don't want to give it away at close to upgrade time or wait 6+ months after the D3 is announced for the AVM to be upgradeable to it, if it will be at all.
> 
> 
> Bob's comments that soon all sources will be 1080p (60 and/or 24) and my next projector will be 1080p/120 does cause a wake up call, since I did get the anthem and the 50 specifically more for video than audio.




Whose making a 1080p/120 projector?


----------



## mr_fitz

I'm looking to step into the 1080p projector market now that I own D2 and because I have heard there will be price drops effective once CEDIA starts and was wondering what people's opinion on which projector I should get? (NFL and NHL will be starting up again soom







)


I don't really want to spend the money for the jvc but was looking for some opinions on the next best cheaper thing. (panasonic, epson, mits, new sony..any others?)


I had read something about the epson not being able to output 1080p/24? And something about the mits being able to do 2.35 scope CIH without the use of an external lens? Not sure though. Problem is I have access to epson, panasonic and sony at much better prices through work than the mits and jvc which would be retail price for me. Prices up in Canada stink compared to the U.S.


My screen for now is under 100" and the room is pretty much black unless I have people over for beer and nfl football or fight night.


Any help would be great.


Thanks


John


----------



## rudolpht

Choice between JVC HD100 & Sony Diamond, but not enough info on either.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11493848
> 
> 
> Tom,
> 
> What was the failure symptom in your D2's scalar?
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> We've had a number of posters here who were not impressed, initially, with the video performance of their D2, but in almost every case we've been able to walk them through the process of improving their video setup to better see what the D2 is capable of doing.
> 
> 
> It takes some time, but it IS worth the effort. We've had poster after poster state that here.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

The video would drop out and I would get a 'check input' signal from my TV. There was a 'HDMI video muted- need hdcp monitor', message on the d2 display. I went thru the set-up menus of my dvd and dvr and d2 to make sure nothing was mis-set, which it wasn't.Thinking that it was a hdmi handshake problem, I switched all inputs and output to component, but the video drop-out continued.

I then went to 'audio only set-up thru the d2 and it worked fine.

Please understand I love the d2 for its audio. I owned the avm30 prior to the d2, and a denon 4803 before the anthem, and each move was a significant improvement in sound quality.

The audio on the d2 is excetional.Outstanding. If I could be assured that the d1's audio was the same I would gladly trade my d2 for a d1, since I plan to never use the video again on the d2 after its repaired.

I had no problem in tweaking the video in the d2 to get a very good picture, but it was never that much better than I could get from tweaking my tv and components.

I just don't feel the benefits of the d2 video outweigh the negatives of extreme heat, added energy consumption and video drop-outs when changing inputs or signal type.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tom,

The audio section of the D1 is identical to that of the D2 -- except of course that the D1 has no HDMI inputs for audio (or video).


If you do not want to use HDMI audio -- from say an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player for example -- then the D1 might suffice for your needs.


-----------------------------------------


The video dropouts you experienced with Component video input/output definitely point to a fault in the unit. There is no handshake with Component of course.


I don't know what software version you were running, but if it was older than, say, V1.11c, there could be a software explanation for this (the infamous 1080i/1080p input bug). But based on your description it is, indeed, more likely that the video processor in your D2 was failing.


------------------------------------------


The sort of video setup discussion we've had with others has as much to do with what they are trying to do in their TV and source devices as it has to do with D2 settings. It is very easy to set up the TV and sources so that the TV is not performing at it's best for critical viewing. And the upshot is that you won't see much difference between what you get with the D2 and without.


But that's neither here nor there right now since the issue is getting your unit fixed and back to you. Be aware that there is some inherent delay in getting the unit through customs each way. For example, Anthem quotes 5 weeks to US customers for the D1 to D1-HD conversion, of which only 1 week is actually time in the factory. The rest are shipment and customs across the border each way.


I hope they can get your unit back to you promptly. If you would LIKE to re-try the video side of things after it comes back, please let us know. There are a number of folks here who can help.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

mr_fitz,

I would suggest adding the BENQ W10000 to your list.

More accurate colors than the JVC.

MUCH sharper than Sony's existing models.

Wide open menus for calibration.

1080p/24 capable

Great lens.

Very nice pj all around.


----------



## uberanalyst

I've been mostly a quiet lurker reading this very helpful thread, but am now looking for some advice.


I just got my new dedicated home theater room operational, with my D2 driving (via 1080p/60 HDMI) my JVC RS-1 projector to a 133" diagonal/114" wide acoustically transparent SMX 16:9 screen. It looks glorious when fed by my DirecTV HD Tivo, with the D2 converting HDMI 1080i to 1080p.


I've been waiting to purchase Blu-Ray player or dual-format player with HD-DVD until the new Blu-Ray and related audio compression standards are implemented in the next gen products.


So...in the meantime I've been making do with an ancient 8-year-old Toshiba DVD player. When I run it to the D2 using component 480i, the D2's well-known video scaling bug appears (the D2 running 1.11e shows a resolution of 1440 x 480, and a vertical "combing" shows up in the image). I get much better results running the Toshiba's progressive component inputs to the D2, but then have to suffer from the Toshiba's poor 480i interlaced-to-progressive 480p conversion. I'd really like to have the D2 do this conversion.


Obviously I'm in need of updated D2 firmware (1.12 or 1.2?), but I've not contacted Anthem to obtain the firmware file yet, awaiting the arrival of room correction firmware. Should I give up and stop waiting, now that room correction software is not likely to become available soon?


Thanks,

- Dave


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/11499291
> 
> 
> Should I give up and stop waiting, now that room correction software is not likely to become available soon?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> - Dave



Did I miss something, I thought there was RUMOR it was going to be discussed at CEDIA?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/11499771
> 
> 
> Did I miss something, I thought there was RUMOR it was going to be discussed at CEDIA?



I think the latest rumor is that it will be DISCUSSED, but not ready to SHIP.


Therefore those who have been waiting for a new firmware rollout (to coincide with the room EQ) are wondering what their timeline is - should they keep waiting for new formware, or get the latest beta version?


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/11499291
> 
> 
> I've been mostly a quiet lurker reading this very helpful thread, but am now looking for some advice.
> 
> 
> I just got my new dedicated home theater room operational, with my D2 driving (via 1080p/60 HDMI) my JVC RS-1 projector to a 133" diagonal/114" wide acoustically transparent SMX 16:9 screen. It looks glorious when fed by my DirecTV HD Tivo, with the D2 converting HDMI 1080i to 1080p.
> 
> 
> I've been waiting to purchase Blu-Ray player or dual-format player with HD-DVD until the new Blu-Ray and related audio compression standards are implemented in the next gen products.
> 
> 
> So...in the meantime I've been making do with an ancient 8-year-old Toshiba DVD player. When I run it to the D2 using component 480i, the D2's well-known video scaling bug appears (the D2 running 1.11e shows a resolution of 1440 x 480, and a vertical "combing" shows up in the image). I get much better results running the Toshiba's progressive component inputs to the D2, but then have to suffer from the Toshiba's poor 480i interlaced-to-progressive 480p conversion. I'd really like to have the D2 do this conversion.
> 
> 
> Obviously I'm in need of updated D2 firmware (1.12 or 1.2?), but I've not contacted Anthem to obtain the firmware file yet, awaiting the arrival of room correction firmware. Should I give up and stop waiting, now that room correction software is not likely to become available soon?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> - Dave



I had just finished a rather well reasoned response to your questions Dave, when I made the mistake of trying to invoke the spell checker prior to sending and pooof!!!!!no more.....Naada......response off to the ether so here is the not so reasoned short form response.


Don't wait for any settling to occur in the DVD HD tech struggle. Either format will do but to have the environment that you do without a DVD HD device is nigh on criminal. Prices have dropped so there is no excuse.....go get either one or both today!!!!!!!


I too have been running on an old version 1.10 and I have been waiting for a 1.2 final full production version to be announced and officially released. We need to get past basic configuration issues and begin serious calibration efforts to fully realize the full benefits of this device(D2). No more informal fixes........no more back room conversations.......lets have the real deal and soon!!!!! I want a public release because of the talent and expertise available on this thread. If we establish a baseline configuration we can begin to help each other understand this technology with out the confusion setting in due to misconfiguration or technical alignment.


Having said all that I would also state that Anthem or anyone else for that matter cannot have my D2 at double the price. It is still the best technology on the planet with no peer yet!!!!!!! Anthem do not let us down........Publically release 1.2 or 2.0 and do NOT release the Room equalization before its time!


Peter


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/11499291
> 
> 
> Obviously I'm in need of updated D2 firmware (1.12 or 1.2?), but I've not contacted Anthem to obtain the firmware file yet, awaiting the arrival of room correction firmware. Should I give up and stop waiting, now that room correction software is not likely to become available soon?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> - Dave



If you feel confident enough to update without any problems, then I would recommend asking Anthem to send you the latest.


You have a specific reason - PQ from your Toshiba - that would give you an immediate benefit if you updated. Many of us don't have a specific need, so updating isn't going to give us anything except a vague feeling of being "current."


Anthem has not officially announced a ship date for the room EQ. The CEDIA timeframe grew out of a rumor I started after talking with the regional Paradigm/Anthem rep in early June who said that EQ should be ready in 3 months.










Knowing how software development can go, especially when there is not an announced ship date, we might not see room EQ until late September or October. If you don't mind waiting another month, then stand pat - but if it were me, I would update and enjoy the better PQ now.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/11493659
> 
> 
> Am I the only oone out there who thinks the D2's video processing is over-rated?
> 
> Tom



When I first received mine in late July 2006, I was not really impressed with the video quality. It was *good*, but not *great* - and not on par with the OBVIOUS audio quality.


After learning how to calibrate my video chain, and what all of the different settings did (thanks to many excellent posts here), and finally getting a professional projector calibration, I now think the video quality of the D2 processing is GREAT.


I think a lot of the process for me was learning slowly to recognize what good video quality looks like, and to optimize the entire chain so that the quality would make it all the way to the projector. I've been an audiophile for decades, but only recently have I paid attention to video.


Another data point - I believe that the best use of the D2/AVM50 is for front projection at ~100" screen size. I would not recommend the D2 to any of my friends with a 40-50 inch screen, as I don't think the full benefit is realized (my opinion only).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/11499291
> 
> 
> I've been mostly a quiet lurker reading this very helpful thread, but am now looking for some advice.
> 
> 
> I just got my new dedicated home theater room operational, with my D2 driving (via 1080p/60 HDMI) my JVC RS-1 projector to a 133" diagonal/114" wide acoustically transparent SMX 16:9 screen. It looks glorious when fed by my DirecTV HD Tivo, with the D2 converting HDMI 1080i to 1080p.
> 
> 
> I've been waiting to purchase Blu-Ray player or dual-format player with HD-DVD until the new Blu-Ray and related audio compression standards are implemented in the next gen products.
> 
> 
> So...in the meantime I've been making do with an ancient 8-year-old Toshiba DVD player. When I run it to the D2 using component 480i, the D2's well-known video scaling bug appears (the D2 running 1.11e shows a resolution of 1440 x 480, and a vertical "combing" shows up in the image). I get much better results running the Toshiba's progressive component inputs to the D2, but then have to suffer from the Toshiba's poor 480i interlaced-to-progressive 480p conversion. I'd really like to have the D2 do this conversion.
> 
> 
> Obviously I'm in need of updated D2 firmware (1.12 or 1.2?), but I've not contacted Anthem to obtain the firmware file yet, awaiting the arrival of room correction firmware. Should I give up and stop waiting, now that room correction software is not likely to become available soon?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> - Dave



It's really 6 of one, half dozen of the other. You can upgrade to the latest firmware (V1.12s, AKA V1.2) to get rid of that 480i component input bug, and then upgrade again when the next software release comes out or wait to see what Anthem announces as to availability of the next release at CEDIA.


Honestly, I can't understand why they haven't put the current stuff up on their web site already for folks.


Since you've waited this long, you might as well wait another week to see if they surprise is with an immediate software release. If not, I'd go and get the current stuff from them as there's no point in living with that 480i input bug any longer than you have to.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/11500123
> 
> 
> I think the latest rumor is that it will be DISCUSSED, but not ready to SHIP.
> 
> 
> Therefore those who have been waiting for a new firmware rollout (to coincide with the room EQ) are wondering what their timeline is - should they keep waiting for new formware, or get the latest beta version?



In fact, based on my conversation with Anthem, you shouldn't expect the EQ function before the end of the year - at the earliest.


The AVM 50/D2 is shipping with software version 1.20 right now. I believe, though I could be wrong, that this is the same as V1.12s.


Don't worry, I'll post whatever they allow me to post from CEDIA.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/11500127
> 
> 
> I too have been running on an old version 1.10 and I have been waiting for a 1.2 final full production version to be announced and officially released. We need to get past basic configuration issues and begin serious calibration efforts to fully realize the full benefits of this device(D2). No more informal fixes........no more back room conversations.......lets have the real deal and soon!!!!! I want a public release because of the talent and expertise available on this thread. If we establish a baseline configuration we can begin to help each other understand this technology with out the confusion setting in due to misconfiguration or technical alignment.
> 
> 
> Peter



Peter, I agree with everything you said regarding the need to baseline production software to get released.. The problem is, based on latest betas, the firmware is NOT ready for primetime, at least with the older chips etc most of have before newer boards have been slipstreamed into production.


I want a production version regardless of the EQ, but I don't want the timing, source switching anomalies, etc of the current S rev.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/11497868
> 
> 
> mr_fitz,
> 
> I would suggest adding the BENQ W10000 to your list.
> 
> More accurate colors than the JVC.
> 
> MUCH sharper than Sony's existing models.
> 
> Wide open menus for calibration.
> 
> 1080p/24 capable
> 
> Great lens.
> 
> Very nice pj all around.



Milt, just checked it out. Single chip DLP very different than the HD100 or the not so Diamond VW-200, but that's why multiple technologies are good. Now returning back to our regularly scheduled Anthem thread


----------



## brado32

So, Vista HTPC thru hdmi 2 on the avm50 output hdmi to a sony pearl..


I think there seems to be a handshaking issue, not sure tho..


When I select the correct input source on the anthem and boot the pc, I will get the vista desktop.. I leave the pc on all the time (disabled screen saver, sleep, power, etc) .. Come back the next day, turn on the anthem, switch to PC source, and blue screen.. I actually have to go over to the PC and hold down the power button and reboot to get the PC back up..


any ideas??


thanks


-Brad


----------



## diamar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32* /forum/post/11513260
> 
> 
> So, Vista HTPC thru hdmi 2 on the avm50 output hdmi to a sony pearl..
> 
> 
> I think there seems to be a handshaking issue, not sure tho..
> 
> 
> When I select the correct input source on the anthem and boot the pc, I will get the vista desktop.. I leave the pc on all the time (disabled screen saver, sleep, power, etc) .. Come back the next day, turn on the anthem, switch to PC source, and blue screen.. I actually have to go over to the PC and hold down the power button and reboot to get the PC back up..
> 
> 
> any ideas??
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> -Brad



I had a similar problem with my D2/HTPC. At one point I isolated a service installed by nVidia that could be disabled and make it run pretty reliably (running XP, not Vista). It's definitely a handshake issue. The easiest solution for me ended up being Gefen's DVI Detective , which worked perfectly.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diamar* /forum/post/11513574
> 
> 
> I had a similar problem with my D2/HTPC. At one point I isolated a service installed by nVidia that could be disabled and make it run pretty reliably (running XP, not Vista). It's definitely a handshake issue. The easiest solution for me ended up being Gefen's DVI Detective , which worked perfectly.



I have an unused DVI Detective if anyone wants

to buy one.


----------



## budeone

Can someone email me the latest version for the AVM-50 please.
[email protected] 


Thanks


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diamar* /forum/post/11513574
> 
> 
> I had a similar problem with my D2/HTPC. At one point I isolated a service installed by nVidia that could be disabled and make it run pretty reliably (running XP, not Vista). It's definitely a handshake issue. The easiest solution for me ended up being Gefen's DVI Detective , which worked perfectly.



DVI Detective solved my HTPC handshake issues, but they were related to screeen resolution. My 6800 wasn't getting the Ruby's EDID through the D2 unless the HTPC input was selected on the D2 before booting the HTPC. DVI Detective stores the monitor (projector's) EDID and sends to to the video card regardless of whether the monitor is actually connected or responding.


In any case it's a cheap trial fix (especially if drhankz gives you a deal).


----------



## budeone

I installed the 1.12h and now my pic flickers on and off every 1-2 sec. All the settings are the same. Any ideas. It only happens with SAT not DVD.


----------



## brado32

I do.. sent you a PM


-Brad


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/11518252
> 
> 
> I installed the 1.12h and now my pic flickers on and off every 1-2 sec. All the settings are the same. Any ideas. It only happens with SAT not DVD.



The latest AVM-50 software we've had reported here is V1.12s (also apparently being factory installed in new units as V1.2).


Some of the early V1.12 versions were pulled and replaced very quickly. I don't recall the specifics on the V1.12h version you are using.


You should probably give Anthem tech support a call and ask them to email you the latest version.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

Thats what I have is 1.12 S The set up editor was H. I tried going from 444 to 222 and then rgb. RGB works much better in flickers every 6-7 sec now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/11520703
> 
> 
> Thats what I have is 1.12 S The set up editor was H. I tried going from 444 to 222 and then rgb. RGB works much better in flickers every 6-7 sec now.



OK, you'd best contact Anthem tech support. They'll probably ask what set top box you are using for your Sat connection and what software version that set top box has installed.


Also, be sure you have Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = No set for that input in the Anthem.


That will simplify the HDMI handshake the set top box has to perform.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Currently, I have my CD player hooked up to the Anthem using both optical and analog cables so I can switch between one and another. For digital, I am using the digital Optical 1 as my CD source input. For analog, I am running the cables into the CD analog "in" on the Anthem and am using the Aux source renamed as "CD-anlg". On the setup screen 5a, I have selected my "audio in" as Anlg-Dir. Auto Dig = NA. Anyone know why I am not getting any sound from this input? I've checked to make sure it is not the CD player by trying another one and no sound from it either.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/11521275
> 
> 
> Currently, I have my CD player hooked up to the Anthem using both optical and analog cables so I can switch between one and another. For digital, I am using the digital Optical 1 as my CD source input. For analog, I am running the cables into the CD analog "in" on the Anthem and am using the Aux source renamed as "CD-anlg". On the setup screen 5a, I have selected my "audio in" as Anlg-Dir. Auto Dig = NA. Anyone know why I am not getting any sound from this input? I've checked to make sure it is not the CD player by trying another one and no sound from it either.



You can not switch which pair of stereo, analog RCA jacks any given Anthem input uses.


If your analog stereo connection from the CD player is connected to the CD analog stereo input jacks on the Anthem, then you need to use the CD input on the Anthem to hear that audio. If you want to use the Aux input for whatever reason, hook the analog stereo connections from the CD player into the Aux input jacks on the Anthem.


Renaming the Aux input only affects what gets displayed when you select that input.


Note: The OVERLAYED inputs all share the same analog audio input jacks. So DVD1, DVD2, etc., share the DVD analog input jack pair.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11521434
> 
> 
> You can not switch which pair of stereo, analog RCA jacks any given Anthem input uses.
> 
> 
> If your analog stereo connection from the CD player is connected to the CD analog stereo input jacks on the Anthem, then you need to use the CD input on the Anthem to hear that audio. If you want to use the Aux input for whatever reason, hook the analog stereo connections from the CD player into the Aux input jacks on the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Renaming the Aux input only affects what gets displayed when you select that input.
> 
> 
> Note: The OVERLAYED inputs all share the same analog audio input jacks. So DVD1, DVD2, etc., share the DVD analog input jack pair.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob! I made a mistake in connecting which is why I was not getting sound. All is fine now.


----------



## nine ball

Has anyone got anything definitive from the folks in Denver?????


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/11521891
> 
> 
> Has anyone got anything definitive from the folks in Denver?????



CEDIA DOES NOT OPEN until Wednesday


----------



## tranle

Newbie question here:

- what is the purpose to having multipe source profiles TV1-4 and DVD1-4 ?

As there is only one TV and one DVD button on the remote.


Thanks.


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/11522693
> 
> 
> Newbie question here:
> 
> - what is the purpose to having multipe source profiles TV1-4 and DVD1-4 ?
> 
> As there is only one TV and one DVD button on the remote.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I use them. I have 2 dvd players and control them using a mx-3000.


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11521262
> 
> 
> OK, you'd best contact Anthem tech support. They'll probably ask what set top box you are using for your Sat connection and what software version that set top box has installed.
> 
> 
> Also, be sure you have Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = No set for that input in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> That will simplify the HDMI handshake the set top box has to perform.
> 
> --Bob




Nick is out of town. I went and put 1.11 back in and lost ALL my settings. I saved the file like I always do and went and uploaded it. It said it uploaded it but I still have none of my settings. The menus are different also. Even know I reinstalled the old version I was using the menu's don't look the same.


It works and my sat is working again. I just have terrible sound. I guess I will have to spend a Sunday trying to get the sound back the way it was. The video part was pretty easy.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/11522693
> 
> 
> Newbie question here:
> 
> - what is the purpose to having multipe source profiles TV1-4 and DVD1-4 ?
> 
> As there is only one TV and one DVD button on the remote.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



You can press tv multiple times to go from tv1..tv2...tv4 in case you have different configurations for custom cropping or for different resolutions. (but you need to go into the source setup menu for each of those inputs that you want to use) Some people have a dvd, blu ray dvd, hd dvd and a ps3. So you might need 4 dvd inputs. You might want to be able to calibrate your picture for each input depending on the source you are playing (ie SDTV vs HDTV )


John


----------



## Eos747

I have a ps3 going to the D2 and from there to my plasma display--which only accepts 1080p60 at the 1080p level. Since film is mastered on blu-ray at 1080p24, what is the best combination of settings to get the best results:

1. Force ps3 to output at 1080p24 and then let the d2 convert it to 1080p60 and output at 1080p60 to the display OR

2. Limit ps3 to 1080/60i and let d2 deinterlace the 1080 signal and then output at 1080p60. My hesitancy in using this option is that it would seem that the ps3 has to interlace and convert the original 1080p24 film source on blu-ray to 1080/60i before sending it to the d2.


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/11522693
> 
> 
> Newbie question here:
> 
> - what is the purpose to having multipe source profiles TV1-4 and DVD1-4 ?
> 
> As there is only one TV and one DVD button on the remote.
> 
> 
> Thanks.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11523333
> 
> 
> You can press tv multiple times to go from tv1..tv2...tv4 in case you have different configurations for custom cropping or for different resolutions. (but you need to go into the source setup menu for each of those inputs that you want to use) Some people have a dvd, blu ray dvd, hd dvd and a ps3. So you might need 4 dvd inputs. You might want to be able to calibrate your picture for each input depending on the source you are playing (ie SDTV vs HDTV )
> 
> 
> John




Plus you can also access a specific input using key combination involving the THX button such as "THX-8-5" for DVD1 and "THX-8-6" for DVD2.


----------



## [email protected]

Hey Bob,

This was something you posted in post number #8857 and I had a question regarding that. "The video dropouts you experienced with Component video input/output definitely point to a fault in the unit. There is no handshake with Component of course."


My Denon 2900 dvd player is currently connected to the AVM50 input via component and from the AVM50 to a Sharp t.v. input via HDMI. I do notice when watching dvd's that occasionally the picture drops out (blue screen) for a couple of seconds. Should this be happening? The software version I am running is version 1.11g. By the way I do not have this problem with my satellite connection which is an HR10-250 TIVO via HDMI to the AVM50 and from the AVM50 to the t.v. is HDMI. Any thoughts on this. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/11538749
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> This was something you posted in post number #8857 and I had a question regarding that. "The video dropouts you experienced with Component video input/output definitely point to a fault in the unit. There is no handshake with Component of course."
> 
> 
> My Denon 2900 dvd player is currently connected to the AVM50 input via component and from the AVM50 to a Sharp t.v. input via HDMI. I do notice when watching dvd's that occasionally the picture drops out (blue screen) for a couple of seconds. Should this be happening? The software version I am running is version 1.11g. By the way I do not have this problem with my satellite connection which is an HR10-250 TIVO via HDMI to the AVM50 and from the AVM50 to the t.v. is HDMI. Any thoughts on this. Thanks.



No this should not be happening unless you are doing something in the player that would cause it to interrupt the video.


Most likely you have a marginal set of Component cables or one or more of the plugs are not completely inserted in the jacks.


So the first thing to try is the "wiggle test". Grasp each cable in turn about one inch from the jack and give it a little wiggle to see if the image goes out. Check both ends of all three cables, although losing the whole picture like this would most normally just be associated with the one cable the AVM-50 is using to sync up with the imaging. EDITED TO ADD: In addition, double check that each plug is FULLY inserted into its jack. Some "locking" Component cables need to have their plug shield loosened (by unscrewing), then you insert the plug into the jack, and then you tighten the plug shield again to lock the plug in place. If you just try to push such plugs in without doing the unscrew/rescrew stuff you won't get a good connection.


If the wiggle test shows no problems, wait and try viewing some more DVDs. You may have just reseated one of the plugs better.


If the problem recurs, the next thing to do is to replace your Component cables with a new set. Keep it reasonably short (6 feet is fine -- 25 feet is too long), and use a decent quality of shielded Component video cables but don't go overboard into the exotic stuff. Your current cables may have bad shielding or may have damaged electrical connection inside the cable.


If you still have dropouts, then try running the Component connections directly from the player to your TV at the same player output resolution. Also try a different set of Component input jacks on the AVM-50. The idea is to try to isolate whether the problem is in the player or in one set of inputs in the AVM-50.


If all of this points to a problem in the AVM-50 that happens regardless of which input jack set you use, then there is one other test to do: Hook up Component from your TIVO to the AVM-50 and see if dropouts happen there as well. It would be best to use the same video output resolution that you are using from the player.


At that point you will need to contact Anthem tech support and give them your results.


But with any luck you'll find an answer in the first few steps with just cabling adjustments.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/11523299
> 
> 
> Nick is out of town. I went and put 1.11 back in and lost ALL my settings. I saved the file like I always do and went and uploaded it. It said it uploaded it but I still have none of my settings. The menus are different also. Even know I reinstalled the old version I was using the menu's don't look the same.
> 
> 
> It works and my sat is working again. I just have terrible sound. I guess I will have to spend a Sunday trying to get the sound back the way it was. The video part was pretty easy.



Gack!


OK, by now you may have already restored your settings manually. Hopefully you had at least some of them in your head or written down. But if not you may still be able to get them back


What matters is whether or not you used the Setup Editor application that came with your V1.11 software install kit (which will be called the V1.10 version of Setup Editor) to save the original settings file to your PC before you did the V1.12s install.


If so, you should still be able to restore your saved settings as follows:


* Go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and do a Reload Factory Defaults. These will, of course, be the defaults for the V1.11 software you have just re-installed.


* Using the V1.10 version of Setup Editor application that you used to save the file originally, restore the V1.11 settings file from your PC to the Anthem.


The result SHOULD BE the menus you are familiar with from V1.11 along with your original settings.


---------------------------


The settings data format in the Anthem is different between the two versions and I'm not sure the V1.12s version of Setup Editor will do the right thing if you are trying to restore settings into a fresh V1.11 software install. That's the only thing I can think of which would cause you to see different menus after reloading V1.11.


If you STILL have strange menus after doing the above, and if those seem to be the result of loading V1.12s saved settings into V1.11, or even just using the V1.12s setup editor to do the reload, then you may need to re-install the V1.11 software again to get things sorted out.


I'm afraid we don't have much experience posted here on folks going back and forth between V1.12s and V1.11, so some of the above is just guesses. And with Anthem all tied up with the CEDIA show this week, they may not be as responsive as normal.


Hope this helps!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/11522693
> 
> 
> Newbie question here:
> 
> - what is the purpose to having multipe source profiles TV1-4 and DVD1-4 ?
> 
> As there is only one TV and one DVD button on the remote.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



The most common use is to pre-set different preferences for watching different styles of content from the same device.


In addition to what's saved in the Setup / Source Setup menu for each of these "overlayed" inputs, all the settings in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) will also be saved separately for each. As will the "temporary" audio level adjustments you make using the buttons on the remote.


As has been pointed out, you can access the overlayed settings by multiple presses of the source input buttons on the Anthem remote, or by a direct, 3-key sequence that you can program into any typical programmable remote.


My recommendation is that you start off with those various overlayed inputs (DVD2, DVD3, etc., TV2, etc.) all "disabled" -- in the first line of Setup / Source Setup for each of them.


Then setup each of your sources the way you think best using only the primary definition (DVD1, TV1, etc.). As you get more experience playing different styles of content you may discover there are alternate settings you like to use that you are frequently doing with the remote each time you play such and so content. And when you realize that, THEN is the time to collect those alternate settings into an overlayed input definition so that you can access them all at once and much more easily.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball

Is it safe to ask whether there has been anything definitive out of Denver now that the trade show has started????


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't see any press releases, so we're going to have to rely on our Far Flung Correspondents.


EDITED TO ADD: I can't find Anthem, Paradigm or Sonic Frontiers in the Expo's "Media Kit" either, so I can't find any press event they might have scheduled.

--Bob


----------



## brusteraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Eos747* /forum/post/11536444
> 
> 
> I have a ps3 going to the D2 and from there to my plasma display--which only accepts 1080p60 at the 1080p level. Since film is mastered on blu-ray at 1080p24, what is the best combination of settings to get the best results:
> 
> 1. Force ps3 to output at 1080p24 and then let the d2 convert it to 1080p60 and output at 1080p60 to the display OR
> 
> 2. Limit ps3 to 1080/60i and let d2 deinterlace the 1080 signal and then output at 1080p60. My hesitancy in using this option is that it would seem that the ps3 has to interlace and convert the original 1080p24 film source on blu-ray to 1080/60i before sending it to the d2.



I have tried 1080p/24 forced or on,auto,and off and to me 1080p/24 forced from ps3 to D2,and then sent to my Samsung s7178 looks best to me.I am using 1.11


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11542395
> 
> 
> I don't see any press releases, so we're going to have to rely on our Far Flung Correspondents.
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: I can't find Anthem, Paradigm or Sonic Frontiers in the Expo's "Media Kit" either, so I can't find any press event they might have scheduled.
> 
> --Bob



If this depressing silence continues I might be forced to ask Hank to make something up!!!!!!!!


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/11538749
> 
> 
> My Denon 2900 dvd player is currently connected to the AVM50 input via component and from the AVM50 to a Sharp t.v. input via HDMI. I do notice when watching dvd's that occasionally the picture drops out (blue screen) for a couple of seconds.


*Mr. Bob Pariseau*

Why have you focused on troubleshooting just the

Component Cables? He is running HDMI from the

AVM50 to the Sharp TV.


Blue Screens usually indicate a HDMI Handshake

problem. Also even a loose component cable will

changes the colors but not get you a BLUE SCREEN.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/11543221
> 
> 
> If this depressing silence continues I might be forced to ask Hank to make something up!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> Peter



I broke my RACE BOAT







over the weekend so my

spending money on AV gear is STALLED until Xmas.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11543237
> 
> *Mr. Bob Pariseau*
> 
> Why have you focused on troubleshooting just the
> 
> Component Cables? He is running HDMI from the
> 
> AVM50 to the Sharp TV.
> 
> 
> Blue Screens usually indicate a HDMI Handshake
> 
> problem. Also even a loose component cable will
> 
> changes the colors but not get you a BLUE SCREEN.



True, but he's not having problems with his other, HDMI source. The TIVO also enforces HDCP.


And you'll get a blue screen in Component if the AVM-50 loses sync on the input signal -- which only takes one bad cable. In addition, his player is probably putting Macrovision protection on it's Component output -- which also makes for synch problems if the cabling is marginal.


--------------------------------------


That said, the timing of the droputs -- about 2 seconds each time -- would normally point to a problem on the HDMI side of things. It's a puzzle however, as to why that would not affect the other sources as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11543279
> 
> 
> I broke my RACE BOAT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> over the weekend so my
> 
> spending money on AV gear is STALLED until Xmas.



Ouch!


I hope there were no injuries involved.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11544806
> 
> 
> True, but he's not having problems with his other, HDMI source. The TIVO also enforces HDCP.
> 
> 
> And you'll get a blue screen in Component if the AVM-50 loses sync on the input signal -- which only takes one bad cable. In addition, his player is probably putting Macrovision protection on it's Component output -- which also makes for synch problems if the cabling is marginal.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> That said, the timing of the droputs -- about 2 seconds each time -- would normally point to a problem on the HDMI side of things. It's a puzzle however, as to why that would not affect the other sources as well.
> 
> --Bob



OK Thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11544812
> 
> 
> Ouch!
> 
> 
> I hope there were no injuries involved.
> 
> --Bob



Only INJURIES are to Hanky's Pocketbook.


About as much damage as I paid for my RUBY.


Hopefully it will be back in the water NEXT WEEKEND.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11545269
> 
> 
> Only INJURIES are to Hanky's Pocketbook.
> 
> 
> About as much damage as I paid for my RUBY.
> 
> 
> Hopefully it will be back in the water NEXT WEEKEND.



Hank without his boat!!!!!!


Anthem without an announcement!!!!!!!


I was really really hoping for some news....explanation for the rather lengthy wait for the next software release........


What about sony Hank? Diamond??????? At this rate I figure you are ok with your wallet where it is. There doesn't seem to be any news from Denver that would make you reach for it in any event!


Sorry to hear though.....I know its your baby.........Go rub your D2 for good luck..........no, on second thought you better not!


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/11545911
> 
> 
> Hank without his boat!!!!!!
> 
> 
> What about sony Hank? Diamond??????? At this rate I figure you are ok with your wallet where it is.
> 
> 
> Peter



There is NO DIAMOND at CEDIA. The VW200 is

NOT the Diamond and it certainly is NOT GOOD

enough improvement over the Ruby - to make

me want it --- EVEN IF I HAD NOT broken my BOAT.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11546040
> 
> 
> There is NO DIAMOND at CEDIA. The VW200 is
> 
> NOT the Diamond and it certainly is NOT GOOD
> 
> enough improvement over the Ruby - to make
> 
> me want it --- EVEN IF I HAD NOT broken my BOAT.



Awesome Hank......its warms my heart to hear you say that. We spend so much time trying to avoid obsolescence that when we succeed in spite of ourselves we fail to celebrate.


I really want to move off 1.10 as I think I'm missing a whole bunch.....audio BM and Video a whole bunch of issues. I don't have your fabulous rack to make upgrades trivial or I would consider an incremental upgrade.


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/11546232
> 
> 
> Awesome Hank......its warms my heart to hear you say that. We spend so much time trying to avoid obsolescence that when we succeed in spite of ourselves we fail to celebrate.
> 
> 
> I really want to move off 1.10 as I think I'm missing a whole bunch.....audio BM and Video a whole bunch of issues. I don't have your fabulous rack to make upgrades trivial or I would consider an incremental upgrade.
> 
> 
> Peter



I'm only on Vanilla 1.11.


I don't feel I'm missing anything and I'm in

NO RUSH to upgrade to the next final release.


----------



## budeone

Bob, I saved the settings with the new editor that Nick sent me. I have most of the Video settings correct. The audio is where I am REALLY screwed up. I paid someone to redo my settings and he spent about an hour and added some cables. He did use just HDMI. I never had DD it was always 2 channel.


I thought when I saved them to a disk I was going to be ok...lol... I guess not!


I want 4:4:4? Not RGB I think I have in some notes somewhere.


And it was 60fps I wanted? at the highest number is offers? Its like 1920 or something.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/11548117
> 
> 
> Bob, I saved the settings with the new editor that Nick sent me. I have most of the Video settings correct. The audio is where I am REALLY screwed up. I paid someone to redo my settings and he spent about an hour and added some cables. He did use just HDMI. I never had DD it was always 2 channel.
> 
> 
> I thought when I saved them to a disk I was going to be ok...lol... I guess not!
> 
> 
> I want 4:4:4? Not RGB I think I have in some notes somewhere.
> 
> 
> And it was 60fps I wanted? at the highest number is offers? Its like 1920 or something.



For HDMI to HDMI connections you usually want YCbCr 4:4:4 to start. YCbCr 4:2:2 *might* work better with some displays. See the "Data Format" posts linked off the first post in this thread for details. Typically you would use RGB if the display was a DVI device instead of HDMI.


For video output resolution and frame rate you need to look in your display manual and figure out what it will accept as input. Get as close to the "native" physical display matrix as your display will actually accept. Some 1080p displays will only accept 1080i as input for example.

--Bob


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11548387
> 
> 
> For HDMI to HDMI connections you usually want YCbCr 4:4:4 to start. YCbCr 4:2:2 *might* work better with some displays. See the "Data Format" posts linked off the first post in this thread for details. Typically you would use RGB if the display was a DVI device instead of HDMI.
> 
> 
> For video output resolution and frame rate you need to look in your display manual and figure out what it will accept as input. Get as close to the "native" physical display matrix as your display will actually accept. Some 1080p displays will only accept 1080i as input for example.
> 
> --Bob



http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/...uctId=11040106 


60" Class Grand WEGA XBR series SXRD Rear Projection Television


Native Resolution

1080p


Display Resolution

1920 x 1080


I dont see anything that says frames per sec.


In another thread HD-DVD has a new player coming out that says:



> Quote:
> The two higher-end units will include HDMI-CEC, which allows connected devices to control each other over HDMI, and support for 1080p/24 frames per second.



I thought the 24 was the bad one and 60 was the good one. If they just now can handle 24 what did they have b4?


THanks Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/11549345
> 
> http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/...uctId=11040106
> 
> 
> 60" Class Grand WEGA™ XBR™ series SXRD™ Rear Projection Television
> 
> 
> Native Resolution
> 
> 1080p
> 
> 
> Display Resolution
> 
> 1920 x 1080
> 
> 
> I dont see anything that says frames per sec.
> 
> 
> In another thread HD-DVD has a new player coming out that says:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the 24 was the bad one and 60 was the good one. If they just now can handle 24 what did they have b4?
> 
> 
> THanks Bob.



1920x1080p/60Hz would be normal for a "native" 1080p TV in the US. /50Hz is normal in some other areas such as Europe for historical reasons.


/24Hz, on the other hand, is "movie frame rate" -- the rate at which frames of film advance in a typical movie. Normally movies are raised to /60 for viewing on TVs by the "telecine" process where interlaced half frames (called "fields") are duplicated in a regular 3,2,2,3 "cadence", making more fields per second = more frames per second.


That's what happens when you watch movies on TV for example.


The result of doing this is that some fields stay on screen slightly longer than other fields, resulting in what's called "cadence judder" -- a relatively minor effect that the brain pretty much causes your eyes to ignore.


However, "judder free" setups produce smoother imaging that most people can readily see if viewed next to a "normal" setup. This is something that's particularly interesting to folks with really big screens, such as front projector folks.


A judder free setup requires a source that can detect film frame rate content (differentiating it from /60Hz TV frame rate content) and send it out at /24Hz, and also requires a display that can receive /24Hz *AND* actually display it at an alternate display refresh frame rate which is a multiple of 24. Very few TVs do that today.


So the /24 stuff is newer in the home theater world.


Assuming your TV does NOT both accept /24HZ as input *AND* display it by altering its screen refresh rate to a multiple of 24, you should set the Anthem to output 1920x1080p/60Hz.


Meanwhile, you would typically set a Blu-Ray or HD-DVD player to send /24Hz to the Anthem. Let the Anthem do the frame rate conversion.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Still no Anthem press releases from CEDIA that I can find.


If they are talking up Room EQ at all, they seem to be doing it very quietly.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders

No CEDIA announcements. No D2 showing up on my doorstep. I'm a very sad boy.


----------



## audiman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11478605
> 
> 
> Make sure you have the PS3's output video resolution set to 720p or higher. HDMI audio is multiplexed inside the HDMI video. That means the maximum bandwidth available for audio is a percentage of the current video bandwidth. Sending 480i or 480p to the D2 will require the PS3 to cut back on the SACD audio over HDMI.
> 
> 
> I forget what max bandwidth has been reported here for a PS3 playing SACD to the D2 over HDMI.
> 
> --Bob



Rez output is set at 1080p. Still cannot play 176khz (2ch or Mch). It is downrezed at 6 ch 48khz.


Anyone had succes playing sacd's with the PS3, at 176khz, thru the D2 ?


----------



## shn750

On the D2, how can I have it so that SAT1 is displaying the TV while the CD is playing music?


For example, I want to view my DirectV on the plasma while the CD is playing music. If I change the Input to CD, the plasma will not be displayed.


Thanks

Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/11552574
> 
> 
> On the D2, how can I have it so that SAT1 is displaying the TV while the CD is playing music?
> 
> 
> For example, I want to view my DirectV on the plasma while the CD is playing music. If I change the Input to CD, the plasma will not be displayed.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve



There are several ways to do this.


You can configure any unused input definition in the Anthem in just this fashion (i.e., video going to the scaler comes from whatever jack you are using for your Satellite box, and digital audio comes from whatever jack you are using for you CD player). For example you might set up the TAPE input that way. You can rename the Tape input so that a more meaningful name shows up on the screen.


If you don't feel the need to view the video output from your CD player while playing CDs you can even set up the CD input definition this way. Just specify the video input jack from the sat box as what goes to the scaler.


In addition to these methods, there is a temporary way to do this using the Simulcast feature via your remote. Press and hold the video device source input button on the remote for 2 seconds until Simulcast appears on screen and then press the source button for the audio device. See Section 4.4.2 of the manual


--------------------------------------------------


Now there is one GOTCHA in all of this. You can not mix audio from an HDMI input with video from ANY OTHER INPUT. That's because HDMI audio is not a separate signal but is, rather, multiplexed into the HDMI video. And so the Anthem has to "handle" the HDMI video to extract the audio from it.


And the Anthem can only "handle" one video stream at a time.


So if you have been getting the audio from you CD player via an HDMI cable, then you will NOT be able to mix that audio with video from any other source (such as your Sat box).


The workaround is to also run, say, an optical digital audio cable from your CD player to the Anthem. Then use that as your audio input when mixing with video from another source.


To summarize: You can mix video from ANY source (including HDMI video) with audio from ANY OTHER source so long as the audio isn't coming in on an HDMI cable.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/11552440
> 
> 
> Rez output is set at 1080p. Still cannot play 176khz (2ch or Mch). It is downrezed at 6 ch 48khz.
> 
> 
> Anyone had succes playing sacd's with the PS3, at 176khz, thru the D2 ?



I don't have a PS3 so I'll have to leave it to someone else here to confirm, but I'm pretty certain we've had reports in this thread of SACD over HDMI playback from the PS3 at higher than 6ch 48KHz.


So OK, who here is doing SACD from their PS3?

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11553179
> 
> 
> I don't have a PS3 so I'll have to leave it to someone else here to confirm, but I'm pretty certain we've had reports in this thread of SACD over HDMI playback from the PS3 at higher than 6ch 48KHz.
> 
> 
> So OK, who here is doing SACD from their PS3?
> 
> --Bob



6ch 88.2KHz


----------



## cosmos5861

I was hoping someone can compare the new DVDO vp50Pro to the Anthem D2? I know it would be just video. Here are the specs . Thank you in advance.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/11553517
> 
> 
> I was hoping someone can compare the new DVDO vp50Pro to the Anthem D2? I know it would be just video. Here are the specs . Thank you in advance.



Before I bought my Anthem D2.


I owned a Lexicon MC-12b and a DVDO VP50.


I sold both units and bought the D2 with MONEY

LEFT OVER.


BEST DARN decision I ever made. The D2 video

processing is every bit as good as the VP50 - which

was EXCELLENT.


----------



## shn750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11553145
> 
> 
> There are several ways to do this.
> 
> 
> You can configure any unused input definition in the Anthem in just this fashion (i.e., video going to the scaler comes from whatever jack you are using for your Satellite box, and digital audio comes from whatever jack you are using for you CD player). For example you might set up the TAPE input that way. You can rename the Tape input so that a more meaningful name shows up on the screen.
> 
> 
> If you don't feel the need to view the video output from your CD player while playing CDs you can even set up the CD input definition this way. Just specify the video input jack from the sat box as what goes to the scaler.
> 
> 
> In addition to these methods, there is a temporary way to do this using the Simulcast feature via your remote. Press and hold the video device source input button on the remote for 2 seconds until Simulcast appears on screen and then press the source button for the audio device. See Section 4.4.2 of the manual
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now there is one GOTCHA in all of this. You can not mix audio from an HDMI input with video from ANY OTHER INPUT. That's because HDMI audio is not a separate signal but is, rather, multiplexed into the HDMI video. And so the Anthem has to "handle" the HDMI video to extract the audio from it.
> 
> 
> And the Anthem can only "handle" one video stream at a time.
> 
> 
> So if you have been getting the audio from you CD player via an HDMI cable, then you will NOT be able to mix that audio with video from any other source (such as your Sat box).
> 
> 
> The workaround is to also run, say, an optical digital audio cable from your CD player to the Anthem. Then use that as your audio input when mixing with video from another source.
> 
> 
> To summarize: You can mix video from ANY source (including HDMI video) with audio from ANY OTHER source so long as the audio isn't coming in on an HDMI cable.
> 
> --Bob



Bob thanks for the info. I am using HDMI for both video and audio sources. However, I am using 6-ch analog for SACD setup. Can I utilize this audio source for the CD under a new input and continue to have the plasma being displayed under HDMI?


----------



## cosmos5861




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11553559
> 
> 
> Before I bought my Anthem D2.
> 
> 
> I owned a Lexicon MC-12b and a DVDO VP50.
> 
> 
> I sold both units and bought the D2 with MONEY
> 
> LEFT OVER.
> 
> 
> BEST DARN decision I ever made. The D2 video
> 
> processing is every bit as good as the VP50 - which
> 
> was EXCELLENT.



Thank you for the response. But I am comparing the NEW vp50pro.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/11554568
> 
> 
> Bob thanks for the info. I am using HDMI for both video and audio sources. However, I am using 6-ch analog for SACD setup. Can I utilize this audio source for the CD under a new input and continue to have the plasma being displayed under HDMI?



The analog audio connections are tied to the specific input definitions of the same name. So the 6ch analog sockets are only available as part of the 6ch source input definition.


However, you can assign an HDMI video source in that definition as well, and you can use the same HDMI socket in multiple input definitions.


So your SACD setup could be video from the Sat box and 6ch analog audio from the SACD player. But that's not going to be so convenient since you probably want to see the SACD disc menus on screen.


Alternatively you can press and hold the input button for the SAT box (to bring up Sat video in simulcast mode) and then select the 6ch input as the audio source to mix with it.


----------------------------------------


But you should consider running optical or coax digital audio cable from your CD player. The quality of audio on HDMI and optical/coax digital audio is IDENTICAL for standard CDs -- as it is for standard DVDs and SDTV/HDTV.


So I have my Pioneer Elite 59avi DVD player hooked up by HDMI, by coax digital cable, and by 6ch analog cables. I've also got Component video cable hooked in for experiments.


My DVD input definition uses the HDMI for both video and audio.


My CD input definition uses the Coax digital cable from the player for audio and the HDMI video from my Comcast HD-DVR box for video. I've got my Harmony remote set up with two activities for this: Listen to CD and Listen to CD with TV. The only difference is whether the TV is also turned on.


The 6ch hookup is there for SACD or DVD-Audio -- or just for experiments. That's set up in the 6ch input definition.


My satellite radio feed gets 2 definitions and 3 activites. I've go an input definition which shows the video channel display from the radio receiver along with the radio audio. And I've got an input definition which shows Comcast video with radio audio. The three activities are Watch TV with Radio, Listen to Radio with Display (to see the program list), and Listen to Radio without Display. The distinction is which input definition is selected in the Anthem and whether or not the TV is also turned on.


For even more fun you can use the Auto Dig function in the input definition to switch between whichever digital audio input you specify and the fixed set of analog jacks associated with that input definition. If there's no signal on the digital audio input the Anthem automatically uses the analog input instead.


So you could have a stereo device (like a turntable with an external cartridge phono amp) share an input definition with a digital device like your CD player. When the CD player is running the Anthem would use the digital audio input you specified. When the CD player is not running the Anthem would use the analog stereo jacks.

--Bob


----------



## shn750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11554978
> 
> 
> The analog audio connections are tied to the specific input definitions of the same name. So the 6ch analog sockets are only available as part of the 6ch source input definition.
> 
> 
> However, you can assign an HDMI video source in that definition as well, and you can use the same HDMI socket in multiple input definitions.
> 
> 
> So your SACD setup could be video from the Sat box and 6ch analog audio from the SACD player. But that's not going to be so convenient since you probably want to see the SACD disc menus on screen.
> 
> 
> Alternatively you can press and hold the input button for the SAT box (to bring up Sat video in simulcast mode) and then select the 6ch input as the audio source to mix with it.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> But you should consider running optical or coax digital audio cable from your CD player. The quality of audio on HDMI and optical/coax digital audio is IDENTICAL for standard CDs -- as it is for standard DVDs and SDTV/HDTV.
> 
> 
> So I have my Pioneer Elite 59avi DVD player hooked up by HDMI, by coax digital cable, and by 6ch analog cables. I've also got Component video cable hooked in for experiments.
> 
> 
> My DVD input definition uses the HDMI for both video and audio.
> 
> 
> My CD input definition uses the Coax digital cable from the player for audio and the HDMI video from my Comcast HD-DVR box for video. I've got my Harmony remote set up with two activities for this: Listen to CD and Listen to CD with TV. The only difference is whether the TV is also turned on.
> 
> 
> The 6ch hookup is there for SACD or DVD-Audio -- or just for experiments. That's set up in the 6ch input definition.
> 
> 
> My satellite radio feed gets 2 definitions and 3 activites. I've go an input definition which shows the video channel display from the radio receiver along with the radio audio. And I've got an input definition which shows Comcast video with radio audio. The three activities are Watch TV with Radio, Listen to Radio with Display (to see the program list), and Listen to Radio without Display. The distinction is which input definition is selected in the Anthem and whether or not the TV is also turned on.
> 
> 
> For even more fun you can use the Auto Dig function in the input definition to switch between whichever digital audio input you specify and the fixed set of analog jacks associated with that input definition. If there's no signal on the digital audio input the Anthem automatically uses the analog input instead.
> 
> 
> So you could have a stereo device (like a turntable with an external cartridge phono amp) share an input definition with a digital device like your CD player. When the CD player is running the Anthem would use the digital audio input you specified. When the CD player is not running the Anthem would use the analog stereo jacks.
> 
> --Bob



Excellent information Bob!!! I will set my 59avi using the same connections as you with optical/coax cables. I am also using a Harmony remote so I'll also add a new activity such as Listen to CD with TV. I'll play around with it but I understand what you are recommending which is a huge plus. Thank you very much.


Steve


----------



## dsm363

Quick question about pairing HD DVD player with D2: Do you want one that offers 1080p24 or are the cheaper ones with 1080i ok? The more expensive ones have scaler chips in it that add to the cost but are not as good as the D2's from what I understand. Thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/11554581
> 
> 
> Thank you for the response. But I am comparing the NEW vp50pro.



I honestly don't know what DVDO could be

doing beyond the VP50. I know they announced

the PRO.


Oh Ya - HDMI v1.3 - We all NEED THAT


----------



## AnthemAVM

So no word from Cedia from Anthem?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsm363* /forum/post/11556037
> 
> 
> Quick question about pairing HD DVD player with D2: Do you want one that offers 1080p24 or are the cheaper ones with 1080i ok? The more expensive ones have scaler chips in it that add to the cost but are not as good as the D2's from what I understand. Thanks.



If you have (or expect to buy) a TV that accepts 1080p/24 and alters it's refresh rate to display that at a multiple of 24 frames per second, then the 1080p/24 capable player is probably the way to go -- even using the Anthem.


Otherwise, the 1080i capable player will give you all you can use (all other things being equal).


Personally, I'd get a 1080p/24 capable player today if you can find one you like at a price that works for you, just to make it easier for you if you upgrade your TV.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/11557293
> 
> 
> So no word from Cedia from Anthem?



Nary a peep!


Inquiring minds want to know! Where are our Far Flung Correspondents?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11557562
> 
> 
> Nary a peep!
> 
> 
> Inquiring minds want to know! Where are our Far Flung Correspondents?
> 
> --Bob



Probably CRYING in their beers because

they are THERE and heard NOTHING.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11557562
> 
> 
> Nary a peep!
> 
> 
> Inquiring minds want to know! Where are our Far Flung Correspondents?
> 
> --Bob


 *There is some GOOD PRODUCT REPORTING HERE*


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11557562
> 
> 
> Nary a peep!
> 
> 
> Inquiring minds want to know! Where are our Far Flung Correspondents?
> 
> --Bob



Guys,


I'll post a response late Saturday/early Sunday. Have to catch an early flight.










Jim


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> 1920x1080p/60Hz would be normal for a "native" 1080p TV in the US. /50Hz is normal in some other areas such as Europe for historical reasons.
> 
> 
> /24Hz, on the other hand, is "movie frame rate" -- the rate at which frames of film advance in a typical movie. Normally movies are raised to /60 for viewing on TVs by the "telecine" process where interlaced half frames (called "fields") are duplicated in a regular 3,2,2,3 "cadence", making more fields per second = more frames per second.
> 
> 
> That's what happens when you watch movies on TV for example.
> 
> 
> The result of doing this is that some fields stay on screen slightly longer than other fields, resulting in what's called "cadence judder" -- a relatively minor effect that the brain pretty much causes your eyes to ignore.
> 
> 
> However, "judder free" setups produce smoother imaging that most people can readily see if viewed next to a "normal" setup. This is something that's particularly interesting to folks with really big screens, such as front projector folks.
> 
> 
> A judder free setup requires a source that can detect film frame rate content (differentiating it from /60Hz TV frame rate content) and send it out at /24Hz, and also requires a display that can receive /24Hz *AND* actually display it at an alternate display refresh frame rate which is a multiple of 24. Very few TVs do that today.
> 
> 
> So the /24 stuff is newer in the home theater world.
> 
> 
> Assuming your TV does NOT both accept /24HZ as input *AND* display it by altering its screen refresh rate to a multiple of 24, you should set the Anthem to output 1920x1080p/60Hz.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, you would typically set a Blu-Ray or HD-DVD player to send /24Hz to the Anthem. Let the Anthem do the frame rate conversion.
> 
> --Bob



I would be telling a lie if I said I understand fully.


I am going to set up Anthem at 60 out with 4:4:4 and change my Sony Blu ray to 24. It is set at 60 now. I always thought the more frames a sec the better the pic. The picture is so good now I just cant imagine changing the player to 24 can actually make it better.


I bet you could make money setting these up for people.










Thanks once again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/11560089
> 
> 
> I would be telling a lie if I said I understand fully.
> 
> 
> I am going to set up Anthem at 60 out with 4:4:4 and change my Sony Blu ray to 24. It is set at 60 now. I always thought the more frames a sec the better the pic. The picture is so good now I just cant imagine changing the player to 24 can actually make it better.
> 
> 
> I bet you could make money setting these up for people.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks once again.



When you have some time, read through the various links collected in the first post in this thread. There's some helpful material on technology and terminology for example that may make some of this a bit less of a mystery for you.


The reason why more frames per second is sometimes not better is when the original form of the content was recorded at a rate which is not an even multiple of what you are trying to use for display.


For example, if you record a movie at 2 frames per second and try to display it at 3 frames per second, you can't just flip the frames faster because that will speed up the movie and it will look unnatural. But what's to do? You don't HAVE a third frame to use each second.


Well you could display the first frame (in each second) for 1/3 second and the second frame for 1/3 second and MAKE UP a third frame for the remaining 1/3 second. The movie would play at a "natural" speed then. But how to make that third frame?


The easy thing to do would be to display the first frame TWICE (1/3 second each) and the second frame once -- or the other way around. Except now the movie kind of stutters along since some frames appear on screen for a longer period of time than others.


Or you could try to invent a third frame which is kinda sorta halfway in between what's in the first and second frame. And the problem here is that there's not really any good way to do that which the eye won't pick up as strangeness in the imaging.


-----------------------------------------------


Well this is just the problem with viewing movies on TV.


Film cameras used to make movies advance the film at 24 frames per second. TVs, on the other hand, put the next image frame up on the screen 60 times per second. And 60 is not an even multiple of 24. If you could just speed up the film camera to 30 frames per second it would work (just display each frame twice to make 60fps). But you can't.


So to make it work, movies are adjusted for TV broadcast. Each frame is divided up into 2 "interlaced half frames" called "fields. One field of each frame has all the even lines of the image and the other all the odd lines.


Then some additional frames are INVENTED by taking a field from one frame and merging it with the alternate field from an adjacent frame. If you take the 2,2,2,2 sequence of movie fields and duplicate some, but not all, fields to produce a 2,3,3,2 sequence the result is that you end up with the right number of fields to make all the frames you need -- some real, original frames and some invented. The result is 30 fps which can be displayed on a traditional TV just fine. This is the cornerstone of the "telecine" process.


However, some fields are now on screen for a longer time than adjacent fields and the brain can see this. Fortunately, the brain chooses NOT to see this most of the time. It tricks itself into thinking there is actually no such "cadence judder" in what it is seeing. Which is why watching movies on TV channels works so well.


But the judder is still there and there are certain TYPES of scenes where the brain actually sees it. For most people, their first realization that cadence judder exists is when they are watching the credits scroll smoothly up the screen at the end of a movie. Except it isn't QUITE smooth. It's a tiny bit jerky. That's cadence judder.


Well if you had a TV which was capable of switching it's image "refresh rate" to a multiple of 24 instead of 30, and if you had a source which would send along /24Hz movie imaging instead of doing telecine to raise it to /30Hz, then you could see the movie WITHOUT cadence judder.


And there are some TVs that will do that today.


Pretty soon now you will also start seeing TVs that are designed to use a /120Hz refresh rate. This is cool because 120 is and even multiple of BOTH 30 and 24. Which means you could switch between /24Hz content from movie film and /30Hz content from live TV cameras without having to change refresh rates in the TV.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm going to add this into this thread as well, even though a separate thread has just been started for it:


Anthem has, at long last, begun selling AVM-20 to AVM-50 upgrades:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/.../Upgrades.html 


The cost is US$2300 presuming the AVM-20 *ALREADY* has the previous DSP-board hardware upgrade for AVM-20 units. Anthem has not quoted a combo price for folks with the oldest AVM-20s that would need *BOTH* hardware upgrades, but presumably that pricing is available on request.


This completes the set of upgrades that Anthem promised well over a year ago: D1 to D2 funtionality and AVM-20/AVM-30 to AVM-50 functionality.


Another change is that Anthem is now quoting 3-4 weeks total turnaround time for US customers instead of the 5 weeks they had previously been quoting. This includes about 7 days in the factory itself. The rest is shipment and customs delays crossing the border twice.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht

I may have a hold over until the D3 comes out


Elite SC-09TX

http://www.engadgethd.com/2007/09/08...09tx-receiver/


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11564071
> 
> 
> I may have a hold over until the D3 comes out
> 
> 
> Elite SC-09TX
> 
> http://www.engadgethd.com/2007/09/08...09tx-receiver/



NOT ME - I LOVE MY D2










That is a NICE piece of GEAR - but won't hold a candle

to the D2 SOUND and VIDEO QUALITY.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim, looks like you'll have until January to think about it! (grin!)


EDITED TO ADD: Since it isn't supposed to ship until at least January, why do you suppose they made it obsolete at launch by not designing and testing it to the stricter HDMI V1.3b signal, functional, and interoperability standard?

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11564071
> 
> 
> I may have a hold over until the D3 comes out
> 
> 
> Elite SC-09TX
> 
> http://www.engadgethd.com/2007/09/08...09tx-receiver/



For $7k? No way.


----------



## bluemark81

I have my main CDP connected to Digital Optical 1 on the Anthem (This CDP also has coax out, analog out and balanced outouts). I also have a CD recorder that only has optical and analog ins (no coax) for recording.


I can run the optical digital out from my main CDP to the optical in on the CDR, bypassing the Anthem, but my question is: Does anyone know a way of doing this by going through the Anthem?


If so, how does the "record" button on the Anthem work?


----------



## uberanalyst

Just ran across this bit of CEDIA reporting on the D2 room correction upgrade at the ultimateavmag.com website:

http://blog.ultimateavmag.com/cedia2007/090807anthem/ 


Looks like it's time to contact our dealers for the upgrade.


- Dave



Stand Up, It's the Canadian National Anthem, Eh?


Posted Sat Sep 8, 2007, 4:20 PM ET By Fred Manteghian



I got a chance to see the Statement D2 pre/pro from Anthem up close. I like the 4 HDMI inputs but I'm already starting to think 5 or even 6 would be appropriate for the next gen. Marketing manager Mark Aling told me their new room equalization software is now available and will be integrated into the D2. It adds a couple of hundred to the price, bringing it up to just under $7K. Unusual is Anthems recognition that every EQ mic shipped with a pre/pro or receiver is inherently different from each other mic, so they actually cut a CD for each microphone / serial# combination and their software recognizes where compensation is needed to overcome the sample to sample variation between microphones. I doubt you'll ever see that level of detail from a mass-market receiver manufacturer, but in a "statement" product like the D2, it really sets Anthem apart from the pack. If you already own a D1 or D2, you can get the upgrade by contacting your dealer.

I went into their demo room where Anthem electronics and a trio of Paradigm on-wall W5 went across the front of the screen. Video was provided by a JVC RS1 and a Panamorphic lens system to show 2.35:1 video and take advantage of all the pixels of the JVC projector. The 100", curvi-linear Stewart Firehawk screen. A DVD of Andrea Bocelli and Neil Diamon in Las Vegas, equalized with their new software, sounded great!


----------



## AnthemAVM

Sweet, I just put a call into my dealer.


----------



## drhankz

 A New ULTIMATE Subwoofer


----------



## Milt99

Usually, there are multiple sites, including AVS, that post wall-to-wall coverage with very quick postings and lots of pics.

This year not so much.

When was that last "Official" posting on AVS?

No party pics yet?

Maybe the party was a bit too good with hangovers all round.









I don't know but I find it interesting that NO ONE posted the D2 EQ news except for the link above and that was from another site on Saturday.


I'm surprised that Secrets didn't have any mention of it as they are more well rounded than AVS which tends to be more video-centric.


Sorry about the incomprehensible title. I guess my titles suck this year as well.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/11572098
> 
> 
> Just ran across this bit of CEDIA reporting on the D2 room correction upgrade at the ultimateavmag.com website:
> 
> http://blog.ultimateavmag.com/cedia2007/090807anthem/
> 
> 
> Looks like it's time to contact our dealers for the upgrade.
> 
> 
> - Dave
> 
> 
> 
> Stand Up, It's the Canadian National Anthem, Eh?
> 
> 
> Posted Sat Sep 8, 2007, 4:20 PM ET By Fred Manteghian
> 
> 
> 
> I got a chance to see the Statement D2 pre/pro from Anthem up close. I like the 4 HDMI inputs but I'm already starting to think 5 or even 6 would be appropriate for the next gen. Marketing manager Mark Aling told me their new room equalization software is now available and will be integrated into the D2. It adds a couple of hundred to the price, bringing it up to just under $7K. Unusual is Anthems recognition that every EQ mic shipped with a pre/pro or receiver is inherently different from each other mic, so they actually cut a CD for each microphone / serial# combination and their software recognizes where compensation is needed to overcome the sample to sample variation between microphones. I doubt you'll ever see that level of detail from a mass-market receiver manufacturer, but in a "statement" product like the D2, it really sets Anthem apart from the pack. If you already own a D1 or D2, you can get the upgrade by contacting your dealer.
> 
> I went into their demo room where Anthem electronics and a trio of Paradigm on-wall W5 went across the front of the screen. Video was provided by a JVC RS1 and a Panamorphic lens system to show 2.35:1 video and take advantage of all the pixels of the JVC projector. The 100", curvi-linear Stewart Firehawk screen. A DVD of Andrea Bocelli and Neil Diamon in Las Vegas, equalized with their new software, sounded great!



Got a call and phone call into my dealer, cant wait to find out the story on this.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11557562
> 
> 
> Nary a peep!
> 
> 
> Inquiring minds want to know! Where are our Far Flung Correspondents?
> 
> --Bob



Ok guys here we go.










I'm going off the top of my head here so please don't hold me to absolute accuracy.










I took the Anthem course which was essentially a review of version 1.2 software which all the current units are being shipped with. I can't say I learned anything new but it was well worth it just to refresh my memory.


New software will be up on their site soon I'm told but they need to test its compatibility with older software.


There was absolutely no talk about room EQ during the course.










On the other hand they did give out a Room Resonance Worksheet, a Guide to Understanding the Set-up of the Anthem, and recommended advanced crossover settings for paradigm reference speakers.


The worksheet basically adjusts/compensates your readings with a Radio Shack SPL meter. Not that they like that meter but they said the good thing about that meter is that it is consistenly bad. Basically for 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, and 45 hz measurements you need to add 6, 4, 3, 2, 1.5, 1, 1, 1, and 0.5 db to the meter reading. If I have time tomorrow, I’ll scan some of these for you. All the rest are accurate at 0.


I met Nick and most of the tech support gang and I have to say that these are some of the nicest guys you'll ever meet. They are passionate about what they do and really care about the products they support. I don't think we know how lucky we really are. I actually spent well over an hour talking to them not only about Anthem but about the industry as a whole.


I talked to quite a few reps but I finally got a hold of Nick and one of the main guys (I think his name is Pat but I could be wrong and apologize in advance) dealing with the direct development of the Room EQ. The D2 they had set up in the demo room had a near final version of the room EQ. It's near final in that they are still tweaking it and have to deal with marketing to see how it will finally be marketed to the public or dealers. They either could not or would not do an A/B comparison. Later Nick told me he could but unfortunately we couldn't get the demo room alone. It was always packed!







He also said that you wouldn’t have noticed a big difference because the room was professionally acoustically treated. The moral of that story is there is NO substitute for proper room treatment! I know that's not practical unless you have a dedicated home theater but that's life.

*FYI: DON'T BOTHER CALLING YOUR DEALER BECAUSE IT IS NOT AVAILABLE YET AND WILL PROBABLY NOT BE AVAILABLE BEFORE CES NEXT JANUARY!*


Actually, most other dealers I spoke to didn’t even know about it. Go figure!










The target price is still $300. It will only be compatible with a specific D2 and cannot be used with any other D2.


Amazingly enough, this software has been in development for the past two years! Being an Audyssey dealer/installer I told him I can't believe they're only charging $300 given all this development time. Their take on it is perhaps Anthem's idea was to amortize the price over time. Additionally, Anthem has been touting the dual DSP feature of the D2 forever and the buyers of that unit are finally realizing their additional investment. After implementing this EQ software, Pat said that there will be no, or next to no, processing left over to use. They are maxing out the processing power of the dual DSp's with this room EQ function.


So what is it and how does it work? Essentially it is a digital EQ (not parametric!) from 20 hz-20 Khz approximately. Basically you install the software, hook up the mic and take measurements from a main/reference listening position. From then you take multiple measurements in other seating areas. When you're done your computer actually processes the information which I believe will ultimately transfer the results to the dsp of the D2.


I believe they said they initially set up the target curve to be flat. That's what one of the other guys told me during the demo. But when I got a hold of Nick and Pat they said yes but they are also testing some options with room gain at specific frequencies.


If any of you are familiar with room acoustics, flat does not necessarily mean best. Flat is a THX spec which requires the use of re-equalization in order to meet their requirements. Flat is also good for very small rooms or highly treated rooms where you sit close to the speakers.


One thing I didn’t like was if you choose to use two subs (as I do many times in order to deal with standing waves) the D2 will take the average of these two and not actual measurements of each. You need to be aware of that when you set up dual subs! The D2 does not have an extra DAC to independantly deal with an additional sub. Perhaps in the next version like a D3.


The one thing we talked about in detail is how much freedom/flexibility will they give dealers and/or customers to set up custom curves. In other words, will it be a fully automated process with little adjustment or complete control to do nearly whatever you want.


They told me that they prefer to give complete control with the proviso that if you blow up your speaker then don't come crying to us. Ultimately this will depend on what the marketing department wants. I’d be surprised and personally disappointed if they didn’t allow me complete flexibility which seems to be anthem's policy as evidenced by their software.


So don’t expect 25db boost at either 20hz or 20KHz!










On the other hand, I think this could be a potentially bad if not outright dangerous situation in the hands of an inexperienced user - be it a dealer or end user. To do proper room equalization, you need good software and hardware which has the ability to do 4 mic multiplexing for spatial averaging. A RadioShack SPL just won't cut it. I guess we'll see how it unfolds.


Sorry to post my Master's dissertation on this topic but you guys deserve no less.










Cheers,

Jim


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11572197
> 
> A New ULTIMATE Subwoofer



That's different! I wonder what they did to keep the fan noise from being too annoying to want to have this beast in your listening space?


On the other hand, it can double as external cooling for the D2!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry to post my Master's dissertation on this topic but you guys deserve no less.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Jim



Thanks Jim! That's very helpful. Here are a few questions that might jog your memory as to specifics.


Based on the news article published above, it appears Anthem will ship specific calibration data with each microphone, and will license the software combo of a microphone (with its specific calibration) and D2 serial #. This would mean a user would have to pay the $300 fee even if he is having a dealer (who has purchased the microphone) do the work. Does this sound correct? In other words, there's no PRICE advantage to having a dealer do it as opposed to buying the mic yourself. Right?


Where does the microphone connect? Into a PC or do they have a method to use one of the existing D2 inputs temporarily?


How does the PC have to be configured for all this to work? Windows 2000 or later? A specific sound card? Any such details would be helpful. And I presume this is PC only (i.e., not Macintosh), right?


What generates the test tones? The D2 itself? Or do you need a specific quality of PC sound card to make this work?


Some of us are using systems like the Velodyne DD series subwoofers which include their own parametric EQ for the bass region. Any suggestions from Anthem on how best to incorporate that into this new system: E.G. set the Anthem to no EQ do the best you can for bass using the Velodyne stuff, and then run the Anthem EQ on top of that? Or set the Velodyne to no EQ, run the Anthem stuff (which may not be able to fully correct bass issues I would expect), and then add Velodyne on top of that?


Your single output to 2 subwoofers comment is correct of course. In fact we've got people posting here who are driving FOUR subwoofers off their D2 -- the 2 RCA subwoofer outputs and also the 2 Balanced subwoofer output. How you get phase optimized that way must be a neat trick!


And lastly, based on the little you know now, would you say that Anthem has something special up their sleeve here compared to, say, the Audesy stuff?

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11574214
> 
> 
> Thanks Jim! That's very helpful. Here are a few questions that might jog your memory as to specifics.
> 
> 
> Based on the news article published above, it appears Anthem will ship specific calibration data with each microphone, and will license the software combo of a microphone (with its specific calibration) and D2 serial #. This would mean a user would have to pay the $300 fee even if he is having a dealer (who has purchased the microphone) do the work. Does this sound correct? In other words, there's no PRICE advantage to having a dealer do it as opposed to buying the mic yourself. Right?



Bob, you're absolutely correct in that the end user will have to pay $300 regardless. However, I would assume that if the owner asks the dealer to do the calibration/EQ then there might be a service charge. Anyway, to answer your question there is no difference.



> Quote:
> Where does the microphone connect? Into a PC or do they have a method to use one of the existing D2 inputs temporarily?



I was told some time ago that the mic will connect through the headphone jack on the front panel. this is not something I confirmed at CEDIA however. The PC connections is through the RS232 input on the rear panel. Using a PC to generate the tones and take mic measurements would introduce time delay problems would be my guess.



> Quote:
> How does the PC have to be configured for all this to work? Windows 2000 or later? A specific sound card? Any such details would be helpful. And I presume this is PC only (i.e., not Macintosh), right?



PC was the only thing we discussed. Win 2K or later sounds about right too. No need for a sound card. My understanding, with the same disclaimer as above is this: The computer/laptop with the Anthem software tells the D2 to generate a test tone which the amplifier does. The Mic picks up the signal and communicates it back to the computer via the D2. Once all the measurements are taken then the computer/laptop does all the calculations with the resultant filters which are ultimately uploaded to the DSP.



> Quote:
> What generates the test tones? The D2 itself? Or do you need a specific quality of PC sound card to make this work?



See previous answer.



> Quote:
> Some of us are using systems like the Velodyne DD series subwoofers which include their own parametric EQ for the bass region. Any suggestions from Anthem on how best to incorporate that into this new system: E.G. set the Anthem to no EQ do the best you can for bass using the Velodyne stuff, and then run the Anthem EQ on top of that? Or set the Velodyne to no EQ, run the Anthem stuff (which may not be able to fully correct bass issues I would expect), and then add Velodyne on top of that?



That is an excellent question that I definitely did not ask.







Let me answer it with my Audyssey hat on and hope it gives some guidance. You would not want to use the Velodyne EQ at all. You would run the software and let the Anthem do all the work. Parametric EQ are centered at specific frequencies and will affect nearby frequencies. In other words they don't resolve enough information. I guess you could experiment and see the result. If you decide to use the velodyne too then measure the final results with the Anthem's Room resonance filter and the Radio Shack SPL with the corrections I quoted. If you have money to burn then you could get a bit more detailed and use: http://www.linearx.com/products/anal...A/pcRTA_01.htm











> Quote:
> Your single output to 2 subwoofers comment is correct of course. In fact we've got people posting here who are driving FOUR subwoofers off their D2 -- the 2 RCA subwoofer outputs and also the 2 Balanced subwoofer output. How you get phase optimized that way must be a neat trick!



LOL! I'll tell you how I'd measure it: http://www.linearx.com/products/anal...A/pcRTA_01.htm 





> Quote:
> And lastly, based on the little you know now, would you say that Anthem has something special up their sleeve here compared to, say, the Audesy stuff?
> 
> --Bob



I wouldn't necessarilly say they have something up their sleeve but how about a $2200 difference? If it's as robust as they've told me AND it gives complete flexibility then it might be the deal of the decade in terms of room EQ solutions. Audyssey doesn't allow me the option of customizing the specific frequencies. Their decision was probably based on the fact that most installers don't have (and would likely not invest in) the right gear to take such measurements. Therefore, why give them the option? The only option Audyssey gives you is to choose from four target curves: Flat, two different high frequency roll-offs depending on room size, and the SMPTE curve for movie theaters.


One nice thing about Audyssey is that it will EQ multiple subs independently. Unfortunately however, the Anthem does not allow me to independently set the different subs trim, crossovers, polarity, and distance.


Not sure if I answered your questions satisfactorily but I hope it helped.


Jim


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11574095
> 
> 
> That's different! I wonder what they did to keep the fan noise from being too annoying to want to have this beast in your listening space?
> 
> 
> On the other hand, it can double as external cooling for the D2!
> 
> --Bob



I'd love to hear it.


Who needs a cooling fan for the D2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks Jim! That was all very helpful. We'll just have to be patient a few more months then.


-----------------------------------------------


By the way, there is a whole forum thread here devoted to discussing the proper adjustment table to use with the Radio Shack SPL meter.


As with the Anthem comments, they've found that a fixed table of corrections works just fine across the entire production of those meters.


However, if you dive into that thread, beware that the most startling thing they have discovered is that the tables widely published in numerous sources for doing this correction (also linked in the first post in that thread) are *WRONG* -- that they overcompensate (too much correction)! Somebody screwed up the measurement way back when, and this just got picked up and repeated from publication to publication.


Later in the thread some of the folks who are most knowledgeable in this did the work to provide 4 tables that appear to do the trick.


There's one table for the digital readout Radio Shack SPL meter and one for the analog readout version -- and they have each of those in 2 forms: One for manual use and one if you are plugging the numbers into a common Room Response graphing software program that happens to do some weighting correction on the numbers already.


EDITED TO ADD: The Velodyne bass EQ system provides 8 parametric filters, each of which can be adjusted separately as to center frequency (1Hz increments), width (Q factor), and depth of cut. Each filter can even provide boost although they strongly recommend you focus on using cuts instead of boost. Putting two filters on top of each other can even be done. And of course they've also got the usual phase and polarity adjustments. And the ability to disable the sub's crossover. Their AUTOMATIC adjustment algorithm uses only fixed frequency filter positioning, and that doesn't work nearly well enough for problematic rooms. But their MANUAL adjustment, if you have the patience to work through all the possibilities, seems quite remarkable.


It'll be interesting to see how the combo of the Velodyne stuff and the new Anthem stuff work best together.


I just wish those two companies were more on speaking terms. There's apparently some bad blood due to their competition in servo corrected sub designs. Which seems to be why we can't get a fix for the long standing bug that the Anthem's scaler doesn't recognize the S-video user interface from the Velodynes as a valid signal (I don't know which product is at fault on this).

--Bob


----------



## uberanalyst

Since we're all trying to piece together the rumors snd CEDIA reports on the room correction/EQ capabilities of the D2, I thought I'd add my $.02 (US).


If custom calibrated CDs are provided with each microphone, I imagine all room measurements will be made whlle playing the CD through your DVD/CD player. As long as digital (HDMI or S/PDIF) audio connections are used between the CD player and the D2, the results will utilize the Anthem's D/A converters and the results should be independent of whatever HDMI or S/PDIF cabling you're using (if you believe "bits are bits," but I don't want to generate arguments about that here).


Ideally the microphone could be USB-based, so it could be plugged directly into your laptop or other PC, and generate a digital measurement output that can be input directly to the PC's software for analysis (and possibly display). This also avoids the need to worry about different soundcards or microphone cabling.


Once multiple measurements have been taken at multiple seating positions, the PC could calculate the appropriate filtering/EQ/delay parameters, which could be sent to the D2 using the rear-panel RS-232 interface.


The DSPs in the D2 would then apply the appropriate digital filters and processing to all 5-7 audio outputs + subwoofer output(s). It might then be possible to play the CD again, and see (again using the PC with its mic and software ) the results of the equalization -- hopefully a nice flat room response.


The process just described doesn't permit the PC to directly generate the test tones and "hear" the results, and adjust parameters in real-time (akin to the way EQ works in the Lexicon MC-12EQ in my other system). But it could exploit the compute power of a PC while avoiding the need for the PC to generate any analog output.


- Dave


----------



## Jim E.

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
Thanks Jim! That was all very helpful. We'll just have to be patient a few more months then.


-----------------------------------------------


By the way, there is a whole forum thread here devoted to discussing the proper adjustment table to use with the Radio Shack SPL meter.
Here is the room resonance worksheet specifically for Anthem.

 

Anthem Room Resonance Worksheet.pdf 181.40625k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dave,

I suspect the CD simply contains calibration data tables specific to the microphone which are loaded into the PC program prior to running the tests.


I.e., it's a CD-ROM that's only read by your PC. You don't actually play it when doing the test measurements.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> uberanalyst;11577816]Since we're all trying to piece together the rumors snd CEDIA reports on the room correction/EQ capabilities of the D2, I thought I'd add my $.02 (US).



I wouldn't necessarily say that it's a rumor. I did actually talk to the guys who are directly involved in the development of the room EQ.











> Quote:
> If custom calibrated CDs are provided with each microphone, I imagine all room measurements will be made whlle playing the CD through your DVD/CD player. As long as digital (HDMI or S/PDIF) audio connections are used between the CD player and the D2, the results will utilize the Anthem's D/A converters and the results should be independent of whatever HDMI or S/PDIF cabling you're using (if you believe "bits are bits," but I don't want to generate arguments about that here).
> 
> 
> Ideally the microphone could be USB-based, so it could be plugged directly into your laptop or other PC, and generate a digital measurement output that can be input directly to the PC's software for analysis (and possibly display). This also avoids the need to worry about different soundcards or microphone cabling.
> 
> 
> Once multiple measurements have been taken at multiple seating positions, the PC could calculate the appropriate filtering/EQ/delay parameters, which could be sent to the D2 using the rear-panel RS-232 interface.
> 
> 
> The DSPs in the D2 would then apply the appropriate digital filters and processing to all 5-7 audio outputs + subwoofer output(s). It might then be possible to play the CD again, and see (again using the PC with its mic and software ) the results of the equalization -- hopefully a nice flat room response.
> 
> 
> The process just described doesn't permit the PC to directly generate the test tones and "hear" the results, and adjust parameters in real-time (akin to the way EQ works in the Lexicon MC-12EQ in my other system). But it could exploit the compute power of a PC while avoiding the need for the PC to generate any analog output.
> 
> 
> - Dave



Perhaps my original post wasn't clear. The software cd is mic specific. In other words there is probably a file already on the cd with a calibration file for the specific mic that it was shipped with. The software is then installed on your PC. Just like using Anthem's Setup Editor or LVSE. The test tones are generated by the D2. The last thing you want is the mic connected to your PC.


Jim


----------



## Don O’Brien

Forgive the break from the discussion on EQ which I am following intently.


What is the the most stable version of the firmware beyond 1.11 for the Anthem D2 that has solved the 1080i problems-running all HD components at 720p input resolution with output to a 720 PJ and a 1080p Samsung rear projection DLP.



Sources

DirecTiVo-SD

DirecTiVo-HD

Denon 5910

JVC 3000 (not functioning at 1080i)

SCI-ATL 8300HD

DirecTV HRS20-700

Windows XP running MCE


If anyone has the firmware version I would appreciate an email at [email protected]


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Don O'Brien* /forum/post/11578673
> 
> 
> Forgive the break from the discussion on EQ which I am following intently.
> 
> 
> What is the the most stable version of the firmware beyond 1.11 for the Anthem D2 that has solved the 1080i problems-running all HD components at 720p input resolution with output to a 720 PJ and a 1080p Samsung rear projection DLP.
> 
> 
> 
> Sources
> 
> DirecTiVo-SD
> 
> DirecTiVo-HD
> 
> Denon 5910
> 
> JVC 3000 (not functioning at 1080i)
> 
> SCI-ATL 8300HD
> 
> DirecTV HRS20-700
> 
> Windows XP running MCE
> 
> 
> If anyone has the firmware version I would appreciate an email at [email protected]



Dan,

If you are not using Component input, V1.11e is probably your best shot in the V1.11 family.


If you are using any Component input devices, you want V1.11g to solve the Component 480i input problem.


The latest version is V1.12s (AKA V1.2 found in new product leaving the factory). Although we have had some reports of new HDMI handshake issues with this version, it does appear to have correctly implemented the bug fixes in the later V1.11 releases. We are expecting a V1.12 version to become the new "official" software on the web site "real soon now". But we've had only a limited number of posts here about it compared to V1.11e and g. We're hoping one more bug fix pass makes it into V1.12 before they go "final" with it.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Recording question


--------------------------------------------------------------------------


I have my main CDP connected to Digital Optical 1 on the Anthem (This CDP also has coax out, analog out and balanced outouts). I also have a CD recorder that only has optical and analog ins (no coax) for recording.


I can run the optical digital out from my main CDP to the optical in on the CDR, bypassing the Anthem, but my question is: Does anyone know a way of doing this by going through the Anthem?


If so, how does the "record" button on the Anthem work?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11564071
> 
> 
> I may have a hold over until the D3 comes out
> 
> 
> Elite SC-09TX
> 
> http://www.engadgethd.com/2007/09/08...09tx-receiver/



No Thanks, I will keep my D2.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/11578258
> 
> 
> I wouldn't necessarily say that it's a rumor. I did actually talk to the guys who are directly involved in the development of the room EQ.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps my original post wasn't clear. The software cd is mic specific. In other words there is probably a file already on the cd with a calibration file for the specific mic that it was shipped with. The software is then installed on your PC. Just like using Anthem's Setup Editor or LVSE. The test tones are generated by the D2. The last thing you want is the mic connected to your PC.
> 
> 
> Jim



My understanding is that the Mic is connected to the PC using a USB connection. The PC software will use the calibration CD that is shipping with the microphone to apply all the required correction. This will give us a fully calibrate measuring devices for .....300$. This is just amazing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/11580826
> 
> 
> Recording question
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I have my main CDP connected to Digital Optical 1 on the Anthem (This CDP also has coax out, analog out and balanced outouts). I also have a CD recorder that only has optical and analog ins (no coax) for recording.
> 
> 
> I can run the optical digital out from my main CDP to the optical in on the CDR, bypassing the Anthem, but my question is: Does anyone know a way of doing this by going through the Anthem?
> 
> 
> If so, how does the "record" button on the Anthem work?



The Anthem only has coax digital output, so if your CDR only has optical digital input you will need a coax to optical converter or you will have to use an analog audio connection. I believe such converters exist but I haven't actually gone looking for one.


The best way to think of the Record button is as a 4th signal Path -- like Main or Zone 2. Select Record on the remote and then press an input source button and audio from that source will be routed to the Record outputs. The 2 coaxial, digital Record outputs are specially configurable and have some subtle differences in what sources they can handle.


You can also set the Main path to always, or temporarily, "copy" its audio to the Record path -- in which case it is the source selected on the Main path whose audio goes to the Record outputs and you needn't use the Record button at all.


The coax Digital1 and Digital2 Record outputs "pass through" any digital audio input in the same format it came in. I.e., DTS bitstream in becomes DTS bitstream out. Analog sources set to Analog-DSP will be digitized as stereo PCM for digital output.


HDMI digital audio, however, can not be sent to the Digital1 or Digital2 Record outputs if the HDMI source is copy protected -- which pretty much precludes all interesting HDMI content.


See Sections 2.2, 3.5, 3.7, 4.2 and 4.3 in the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

There is some talk of Toshiba doing a firmware that allows the formats mentioned, to be output through a bitstream digitally. Question, if my understanding is correct, will the AVM-50 or D2 do any decodingt with these signals if this happens. Will the fact they are not hdmi 1.3 have any bearing on this?


John


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/11592058
> 
> 
> There is some talk of Toshiba doing a firmware that allows the formats mentioned, to be output through a bitstream digitally. Question, if my understanding is correct, will the AVM-50 or D2 do any decodingt with these signals if this happens. Will the fact they are not hdmi 1.3 have any bearing on this?
> 
> 
> John



No decoding in the D2. You do need 1.3 for this.


However, there is absolutely nothing to gain by doing this outside the player in regards to bother quality and functionality. By doing the decoding in the player and passing it as PCM, you will get the same audio quality as having the receiver/pre-pro doing it.


----------



## jayray

Filmmixxer,


you said the magic words " no change in quality or functionality". That is great news, now if only the ps3 would do this sound nervana would reach new levels for movies using DTS-HD or MA









thanks,

John


----------



## obie_fl

The only draw back to not having 1.3 that I can see is the fact that DTS-HD/MA seems to not be showing up in the players on either the Blu-ray or HD DVD sides. It would also be nice if the Anthem could do 7.1 PCM over HDMI but it is not not a show stopper. Having said that I wouldn't mind seeing an AVM-50/D2 update to HDMI 1.3, perhaps a "Series II" update?


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11579068
> 
> 
> Dan,
> 
> If you are not using Component input, V1.11e is probably your best shot in the V1.11 family.
> 
> 
> If you are using any Component input devices, you want V1.11g to solve the Component 480i input problem.
> 
> 
> The latest version is V1.12s (AKA V1.2 found in new product leaving the factory). Although we have had some reports of new HDMI handshake issues with this version, it does appear to have correctly implemented the bug fixes in the later V1.11 releases. We are expecting a V1.12 version to become the new "official" software on the web site "real soon now". But we've had only a limited number of posts here about it compared to V1.11e and g. We're hoping one more bug fix pass makes it into V1.12 before they go "final" with it.
> 
> --Bob




I hope the 1.12 is different from the 1.12s


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11478050
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> Everyone's on tenterhooks waiting for whatever gets announced/shown at CEDIA -- and whether that means Anthem will finally make it's public release of the new software!
> 
> 
> Just curious; what did they quote you as delivery time for your D2?
> 
> 
> A new batch of mascots is in the incubator.
> 
> --Bob



Bob -


Just heard back from my dealer. I should have the D2 next week. So, that's about a 3.5 week turn around from the time of order. Wu hoo! Been without for so long. Can't wait...


----------



## FilmMixer

I know this isn't exactly the proper place (and I am a club member, so I do have classified access) but a moving situation has come up, and no theater room for moi.


Yes.. I might need to sell my D2 and A5










If anybody has any ideas on what the two are worth, I would appreciate a PM


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/11592195
> 
> 
> No decoding in the D2. You do need 1.3 for this.
> 
> 
> However, there is absolutely nothing to gain by doing this outside the player in regards to bother quality and functionality. By doing the decoding in the player and passing it as PCM, you will get the same audio quality as having the receiver/pre-pro doing it.



I'm not sure I'd agree with the absolute nature of this statement. All things equal, it shouldn't matter where the decoding is done. However, often all things aren't equal.


It would be nice to have the option of bitstream output so I could decide for myself.


----------



## Jailbreak

I know this is the D2 tweaking thread but I didn't find an MCA-50 thread and I would like to get some advice on a good source for purchasing an MCA-50 amplifier. PM me if you prefer.


Thanks,

Jailbreak


----------



## muad'dib




However said:


> I would agree, but think I might disagree...
> 
> 
> The reason is as follows..
> 
> 
> I have the pioneer blu-ray (94 model elite)..
> 
> 
> If I send out PCM to the D2, and select plain old DTS/DD 5.1 on the blu-ray (if it has the standard DTS/DD), and have the pioneer do the decoding.. The sound is good, but suffers in bass and dynamics.... Just very plain sounding..
> 
> 
> However, If I set the pioneer to Bitstream for Hdmi, and have the D2 do the decoding, I get awesome bass, dynamics..
> 
> 
> Now this being said, both ways are send out thur HDMI to D2... Only difference is what is decoding the sound, and the D2 does it better....
> 
> 
> 
> Would this then not be the case for Ture HD, DD+ ??
> 
> 
> If D2 can do better for plain DD/DTS, it should also for those formats...
> 
> 
> I think however that PCM 5.1 would sound the same for both units doing the decoding, as there is no decoding to do...
> 
> 
> 
> I may be wrong, but the D2 DOES sound better when it does the work...


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/11594803
> 
> 
> I'm not sure I'd agree with the absolute nature of this statement. All things equal, it shouldn't matter where the decoding is done. However, often all things aren't equal.
> 
> 
> It would be nice to have the option of bitstream output so I could decide for myself.



Dolby Labs and DTS Inc. don't disagree at all, but I see you do - interesting. Read the specs, read the white papers from the sources, Dolby and DTS, there is absolutely NOTHING to gain by decoding outside of the player....


Save the money you would have spent on the 1.3 HDMI 'fanboy' spec, and buy yourself better speakers, and better room acoustics, something that can have actual impact on audio quality.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/11595175
> 
> 
> I would agree, but think I might disagree...
> 
> 
> The reason is as follows..
> 
> 
> I have the pioneer blu-ray (94 model elite)..
> 
> 
> If I send out PCM to the D2, and select plain old DTS/DD 5.1 on the blu-ray (if it has the standard DTS/DD), and have the pioneer do the decoding.. The sound is good, but suffers in bass and dynamics.... Just very plain sounding..
> 
> 
> However, If I set the pioneer to Bitstream for Hdmi, and have the D2 do the decoding, I get awesome bass, dynamics..
> 
> 
> Now this being said, both ways are send out thur HDMI to D2... Only difference is what is decoding the sound, and the D2 does it better....
> 
> 
> 
> Would this then not be the case for Ture HD, DD+ ??
> 
> 
> If D2 can do better for plain DD/DTS, it should also for those formats...
> 
> 
> I think however that PCM 5.1 would sound the same for both units doing the decoding, as there is no decoding to do...
> 
> 
> 
> I may be wrong, but the D2 DOES sound better when it does the work...



What version of D2 software are you running? If by any chance it is V1.10 or older than you are simply suffering from the missing LFE 10dB boost bug that affects multi-channel PCM input which was discovered and fixed late last year.


If so, you want to upgrade to at least V1.11e software.


------------------------------------------------


Also, when the player is doing the decoding, you must be sure to DISABLE all speaker configuration and bass management in the player. The D2 does that stuff for you and you don't want it to be done twice.


When things are set up properly in the player and in the D2, you should hear no such difference.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer

^^^ You also need to be sure to have the players set up correctly (i.e. all speakers set to large, no crossovers, etc...)


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11595466
> 
> 
> What version of D2 software are you running? If by any chance it is V1.10 or older than you are simply suffering from the missing LFE 10dB boost bug that affects multi-channel PCM input which was discovered and fixed late last year.
> 
> 
> If so, you want to upgrade to at least V1.11e software.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Also, when the player is doing the decoding, you must be sure to DISABLE all speaker configuration and bass management in the player. The D2 does that stuff for you and you don't want it to be done twice.
> 
> 
> When things are set up properly in the player and in the D2, you should hear no such difference.
> 
> --Bob




Hi Bob..


Thank for the tips...










I'm using the newest beta 1.12s... I made sure on Pioneer to select 5.1 channel out, and large speaker all around with sub... Also, all delay times are same...



This better sound issue i get is also the same for my buddy... He just baught the new Samsung 1200 blu-ray player, and has a yamaha HDMI receiver... If he sound out PCM from his player and has the player do the normal DTS/DD decoding, the sound is ok...


but...


When he make the player sound out Bitstream thru HDMI, the yamaha decodes the DTS/DD and sound is much for dynamic..



My problem, was really not so much the bass, but the dynamics... When D2 did the work, the movie came to life, but when Pioneer did work, and sent it out as PCM, very lifeless...


----------



## muad'dib

Just wondering if there is any way to just pass HDMI IN to OUT with no scaling, effects, gamma, etc... To totally bypass it...


Aslo, still be able to extract the audio, but leave video intact...


I want to send in video to D2, then have it go to T.V. untouched... I don't want to have to tell D2 what rez. to output... I just want HDMI to output whatever Rez the incomming signal is...


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/11589365
> 
> 
> My understanding is that the Mic is connected to the PC using a USB connection. The PC software will use the calibration CD that is shipping with the microphone to apply all the required correction. This will give us a fully calibrate measuring devices for .....300$. This is just amazing.



I stand corrected. It actually makes a lot more sense to me now to have your pentium/Athlon do the calculations then upload the results.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/11595570
> 
> 
> Hi Bob..
> 
> 
> Thank for the tips...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using the newest beta 1.12s... I made sure on Pioneer to select 5.1 channel out, and large speaker all around with sub... Also, all delay times are same...
> 
> 
> 
> This better sound issue i get is also the same for my buddy... He just baught the new Samsung 1200 blu-ray player, and has a yamaha HDMI receiver... If he sound out PCM from his player and has the player do the normal DTS/DD decoding, the sound is ok...
> 
> 
> but...
> 
> 
> When he make the player sound out Bitstream thru HDMI, the yamaha decodes the DTS/DD and sound is much for dynamic..
> 
> 
> 
> My problem, was really not so much the bass, but the dynamics... When D2 did the work, the movie came to life, but when Pioneer did work, and sent it out as PCM, very lifeless...



Hang on! I just realized you are playing with the "standard" DTS and DD tracks!


Unlike with TrueHD (or DTS-HD MA), when you tell the player to send PCM from a standard DTS or DD track what you are getting is a 2-channel stereo mixdown. If the D2 is playing that through all speakers it is because you are using an audio mode like AL-Cinema or PLIIx to manipulate the 2.0 channel input into 5.1 or 7.1 speaker output.


And YES, that combo will be less dynamic. For one thing, there is no longer any LFE channel data. The LFE channel is deliberately recorded at a lower reference level so that the peaks can go much higher. When the 2 channel mixdown tries to push that into the normal L and R front channels it has to compress (lower the dynamic range) of that to keep from clipping those channels. Once done, that can't be undone in the Anthem. I.e., the bass extracted from the incoming 2.0 signal and sent to the subwoofer, as well as the remaining bass in the L/R channels, is compressed.


In addition, the conversion to PCM in the player (during the mixdown process) is done at "moderate" bandwidth -- pretty much the same as standard stereo CD stuff.


Now if you send the bitstream to the D2 and have the D2 do the decoding, you get that conversion done at the full 192Khz bandwidth of the internal D2 processing, and you also get a full multi-channel set of PCM including the LFE channel. It's a lossy conversion either way, but you are not throwing away stuff by also pushing it through the narrow pipe of a 2 channel mixdown.


----------------------------------------------


This is very different from what happens when the player decodes, say, TrueHD into PCM. In that case you get a true multi-channel set of high bandwidth PCM -- including an LFE channel -- all of which gets sent over to the D2.


The bottom line is that you DEFINITELY want to send standard DTS and DD tracks as "bitstream" and have the D2 do the decoding.


But the high bandwidth tracks -- the raw PCM track, or TrueHD or whatever -- should be sent as PCM.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/11595606
> 
> 
> Just wondering if there is any way to just pass HDMI IN to OUT with no scaling, effects, gamma, etc... To totally bypass it...
> 
> 
> Aslo, still be able to extract the audio, but leave video intact...
> 
> 
> I want to send in video to D2, then have it go to T.V. untouched... I don't want to have to tell D2 what rez. to output... I just want HDMI to output whatever Rez the incomming signal is...



No. You can't set the D2 to merely "pass through" the incoming HDMI.


You can bypass scaling, but the output resolution will be the one you have specified in your Video Output definition.


If you specify 1080p output and bypass scaling of a 480i input, you will see that input as a small image in the middle of an otherwise black 1080p screen for example. This can be useful for testing/setup purposes but not for normal viewing.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11598539
> 
> 
> Hang on! I just realized you are playing with the "standard" DTS and DD tracks!
> 
> 
> Unlike with TrueHD (or DTS-HD MA), when you tell the player to send PCM from a standard DTS or DD track what you are getting is a 2-channel stereo mixdown. If the D2 is playing that through all speakers it is because you are using an audio mode like AL-Cinema or PLIIx to manipulate the 2.0 channel input into 5.1 or 7.1 speaker output.
> 
> 
> And YES, that combo will be less dynamic. For one thing, there is no longer any LFE channel data. The LFE channel is deliberately recorded at a lower reference level so that the peaks can go much higher. When the 2 channel mixdown tries to push that into the normal L and R front channels it has to compress (lower the dynamic range) of that to keep from clipping those channels. Once done, that can't be undone in the Anthem. I.e., the bass extracted from the incoming 2.0 signal and sent to the subwoofer, as well as the remaining bass in the L/R channels, is compressed.
> 
> 
> In addition, the conversion to PCM in the player (during the mixdown process) is done at "moderate" bandwidth -- pretty much the same as standard stereo CD stuff.
> 
> 
> Now if you send the bitstream to the D2 and have the D2 do the decoding, you get that conversion done at the full 192Khz bandwidth of the internal D2 processing, and you also get a full multi-channel set of PCM including the LFE channel. It's a lossy conversion either way, but you are not throwing away stuff by also pushing it through the narrow pipe of a 2 channel mixdown.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> This is very different from what happens when the player decodes, say, TrueHD into PCM. In that case you get a true multi-channel set of high bandwidth PCM -- including an LFE channel -- all of which gets sent over to the D2.
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that you DEFINITELY want to send standard DTS and DD tracks as "bitstream" and have the D2 do the decoding.
> 
> 
> But the high bandwidth tracks -- the raw PCM track, or TrueHD or whatever -- should be sent as PCM.
> 
> --Bob





Thanx again Bob...











When I set the pioneer to PCM for HDMI, and play a normal DTS/DD dvd, the pioneer in in fact decoding the DD/DTS in the player, and sending out as 5.1 PCM to D2.. I get perfect seperation in rears, sub channel, etc in fronts... I am using the PLIIX mode, as I have 7.1 setup...



I know that the PCM is for sure not a 2 channel downmix, but is the 5.1 mix on dvd...


This being said, the D2 sound better doing the decoding...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/11600573
> 
> 
> Thanx again Bob...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I set the pioneer to PCM for HDMI, and play a normal DTS/DD dvd, the pioneer in in fact decoding the DD/DTS in the player, and sending out as 5.1 PCM to D2.. I get perfect seperation in rears, sub channel, etc in fronts... I am using the PLIIX mode, as I have 7.1 setup...
> 
> 
> 
> I know that the PCM is for sure not a 2 channel downmix, but is the 5.1 mix on dvd...
> 
> 
> This being said, the D2 sound better doing the decoding...



That's very strange indeed. The PCM for those is normally targeted at TVs that have only stereo audio.


There is clearly something odd going on inside that player.


So just to confirm, if you play a DD5.1 or standard DTS track, and have the player send out PCM, and then press Select on the D2 to see what's arriving, the D2 tells you it is receiving 6 channels of PCM? Right?


If so, then your loss of dynamics is either a bug in the player or some strangeness in your player setup. There's really no good reason why the player shouldn't be able to send the same PCM to the D2 that the D2 would get out of doing the decoding of those lossy formats itself.


Does that player have multi-channel analog outputs? I wonder if it is artificially dropping LFE by another 5DB as is done in some cases for those.

--Bob


----------



## audiman

Here's anthem's response for the SACD output thru HDMI, by the PS3



> Quote:
> Full bandwidth of SACD was always through 6 channel PCM via analog cables, with HDMI 1.1 (d2) it cannot reproduce that same resolution of sound therefore it is being down converted



So i guess this means that the D2 cannot accept a signal higher than 96/24.


Not really a big issue,


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11600761
> 
> 
> That's very strange indeed. The PCM for those is normally targeted at TVs that have only stereo audio.
> 
> 
> There is clearly something odd going on inside that player.
> 
> 
> So just to confirm, if you play a DD5.1 or standard DTS track, and have the player send out PCM, and then press Select on the D2 to see what's arriving, the D2 tells you it is receiving 6 channels of PCM? Right?
> 
> 
> If so, then your loss of dynamics is either a bug in the player or some strangeness in your player setup. There's really no good reason why the player shouldn't be able to send the same PCM to the D2 that the D2 would get out of doing the decoding of those lossy formats itself.
> 
> 
> Does that player have multi-channel analog outputs? I wonder if it is artificially dropping LFE by another 5DB as is done in some cases for those.
> 
> --Bob





It does have analogue outs aswell..


From the manual, my understanding is, if HDMI is set to AUTO, then DD/DTS are sent as bitstream, while truehd, DDplus, DTS HD, are sent as their core... Example: TrueHD is sent as normal DD..


Now..


If HDMI is set to PCM, true HD, DD plus are send as 7 Channel PCM thru HDMI... DD/DTS are send 6 channel thru HDMI decoded in player...



They had a chart for the player, and it showed that when PCM was selected for HDMI, 5.1 was sent from DD/DTS...



It is very starnge why the sound difference... Oh well..


My buddy with his samsung 1200 blu-ray noticed the same effect from his player on his stereo...



I will do more research into this, now that you got me thinking..


----------



## jayray

I have asked this question before but no answer. My AVM 50 never displays anything but 5.1 with any pcm output from my ps3. It never says *PCM*. Should it? With TrueHD again it displays 5.1. I have nothing overlayed over the original signal so this is what's on the display. Not to belabour the point but it would irritate me if my unit was not displaying the correct info even though it sounds like it is.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/11595217
> 
> 
> Dolby Labs and DTS Inc. don't disagree at all, but I see you do - interesting. Read the specs, read the white papers from the sources, Dolby and DTS, there is absolutely NOTHING to gain by decoding outside of the player....
> 
> 
> -Brian



The point wasn't really to tout HDMI 1.3 but to disagree with the use of absolutes.


Apparently, you don't agree with that either.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/11604455
> 
> 
> I have asked this question before but no answer. My AVM 50 never displays anything but 5.1 with any pcm output from my ps3. It never says *PCM*. Should it? With TrueHD again it displays 5.1. I have nothing overlayed over the original signal so this is what's on the display.



That is correct.


----------



## Tolstoi

I just loaded my XA2 with firmware 2.5 enabling 1080p24. This is working well through the D2 with the exception of the first sync that was a bit long.


This is great now all sources are driving my projector through the D2 native.


----------



## rudolpht

Trying that now.


Here's the XA2 link to the link









http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...768634&page=73


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/11604215
> 
> 
> It does have analogue outs aswell..
> 
> 
> From the manual, my understanding is, if HDMI is set to AUTO, then DD/DTS are sent as bitstream, while truehd, DDplus, DTS HD, are sent as their core... Example: TrueHD is sent as normal DD..
> 
> 
> Now..
> 
> 
> If HDMI is set to PCM, true HD, DD plus are send as 7 Channel PCM thru HDMI... DD/DTS are send 6 channel thru HDMI decoded in player...
> 
> 
> 
> They had a chart for the player, and it showed that when PCM was selected for HDMI, 5.1 was sent from DD/DTS...
> 
> 
> 
> It is very starnge why the sound difference... Oh well..
> 
> 
> My buddy with his samsung 1200 blu-ray noticed the same effect from his player on his stereo...
> 
> 
> 
> I will do more research into this, now that you got me thinking..



For TrueHD and DD+, etc., for any of the new advanced audio codecs, you need to set your player to output PCM, not Auto, to the D2 over HDMI. If that screws up plain old fashioned Dolby 5.1 or oldfashioned plain old DTS soundtracks, then you will simply have to switch that setting back on your player each time you use it for a normal DVD instead of BluRay. If you are using the Auto setting with a BluRay disc, you are NOT ever going to get the advantage of the new advanced high bandwidth audio streams. The best you will ever get when Auto is selected for a BluRay disc is a down-mixed Dolby 5.1 mix or DTS mix. Of course, that will never sound special to you.


I have a Pioneer 94HD BluRay and it works the same way (as does the Sony player). I leave mine on PCM output all the time, as I use it only for BluRay discs anyway. That way, I get the 6 channels of PCM high bandwidth audio that has resulted from decoding Dolby TrueHD in the player (where it belongs).


Trust me when I say the audio quality is absolutely spectacular.


-Brian


----------



## rudolpht

OK, not much of a surprise. Video on the XA2 (TV on DVD) much better at "Up to 1080p" (know I'm not using the power of Anthem on a low res source, but stay with me) than "up to 1080p24"


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/11606227
> 
> 
> For TrueHD and DD+, etc., for any of the new advanced audio codecs, you need to set your player to output PCM, not Auto, to the D2 over HDMI. If that screws up plain old fashioned Dolby 5.1 or oldfashioned plain old DTS soundtracks, then you will simply have to switch that setting back on your player each time you use it for a normal DVD instead of BluRay. If you are using the Auto setting with a BluRay disc, you are NOT ever going to get the advantage of the new advanced high bandwidth audio streams. The best you will ever get when Auto is selected for a BluRay disc is a down-mixed Dolby 5.1 mix or DTS mix. Of course, that will never sound special to you.
> 
> 
> I have a Pioneer 94HD BluRay and it works the same way (as does the Sony player). I leave mine on PCM output all the time, as I use it only for BluRay discs anyway. That way, I get the 6 channels of PCM high bandwidth audio that has resulted from decoding Dolby TrueHD in the player (where it belongs).
> 
> 
> Trust me when I say the audio quality is absolutely spectacular.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Thanx










I guess I will just leave it in PCM for blu-ray (except those movies that only have standard DD/DTS) where I will switch it back to Auto..


Question:


For DTS HD MA titles, should I set it to Auto and have the D2 do the DTS (since the pioneer does not do DTS HD MA yet...)?? or, will I get better quality sending PCM from player??


Thanx..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/11606594
> 
> 
> Thanx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I will just leave it in PCM for blu-ray (except those movies that only have standard DD/DTS) where I will switch it back to Auto..
> 
> 
> Question:
> 
> 
> For DTS HD MA titles, should I set it to Auto and have the D2 do the DTS (since the pioneer does not do DTS HD MA yet...)?? or, will I get better quality sending PCM from player??
> 
> 
> Thanx..



You'll be better off playing the PCM track in that last case. The PCM track is also a lossless track. Think of it as "pre-decoded".


If you send a bitstream to the D2 in that case, you will get the "core" subset of the DTS-HD MA track -- which is essentially the same as a traditional "lossy" DTS track.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/11605359
> 
> 
> I just loaded my XA2 with firmware 2.5 enabling 1080p24. This is working well through the D2 with the exception of the first sync that was a bit long.
> 
> 
> This is great now all sources are driving my projector through the D2 native.



I feel like an idiot asking this after having been breastfed on this thread but here goes................


Should I have the XA2 output HDMI 1080p24 to my D2 and then hdmi 1080P60 to my ruby as it does not do 1080P24. OR should I leave the output at 1080P60 from the XA2?


Peter


----------



## FilmMixer

To all...


It is with sadness that I am shipping out my D2/A5 today to a very lucky buyer.....


There is just no room in the new house for a theater, and it will be complete overkill for my space










I'll just have to settle for my work setup










I'll still be a lurker... for my money, this is the best thread on AVS.


And the D2 is still the most kick a** piece of gear I've owned..


Period.


----------



## Tim Winders

OMG FilMixer! I saw what you sold them for. A *VERY* lucky buyer indeed. Wow, wish I had known you'd be selling a few weeks ago before I bought my new D2 (which I still dont' have). Someone got your D2 and A5 for less that I just bought my new D2 for!


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/11610267
> 
> 
> To all...
> 
> 
> It is with sadness that I am shipping out my D2/A5 today to a very lucky buyer.....
> 
> 
> There is just no room in the new house for a theater, and it will be complete overkill for my space
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just have to settle for my work setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll still be a lurker... for my money, this is the best thread on AVS.
> 
> 
> And the D2 is still the most kick a** piece of gear I've owned..
> 
> 
> Period.




As one of many who have benefited from your wisdom I think it is wrong for you to leave it all at work!!!!!! Go get a bigger house and send the bill to AVS. Really, sorry you had to do this but glad to hear you will continue to peek over our shoulders.......


I still want to know how much you target the home technical configuration in your production consideration..........


Peter


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/11610267
> 
> 
> To all...
> 
> 
> It is with sadness that I am shipping out my D2/A5 today to a very lucky buyer.....
> 
> 
> There is just no room in the new house for a theater, and it will be complete overkill for my space
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just have to settle for my work setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll still be a lurker... for my money, this is the best thread on AVS.
> 
> 
> And the D2 is still the most kick a** piece of gear I've owned..
> 
> 
> Period.



Good Luck and please stay around your inputs are extremely valuable.


----------



## audiman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11606731
> 
> 
> You'll be better off playing the PCM track in that last case. The PCM track is also a lossless track. Think of it as "pre-decoded".
> 
> 
> If you send a bitstream to the D2 in that case, you will get the "core" subset of the DTS-HD MA track -- which is essentially the same as a traditional "lossy" DTS track.
> 
> --Bob



Since the D2 is not decoding the DTS-HD MA, what exactly is coming out of it ? i thought it was getting only the DTS core on the LPCM track.


Also, i played a DTS 96/24 from the PS3. One time on lpcm and one time on bistream. I got 6 ch 48 khz (pcm) and DTS 96/24 signal (bistream) at 1536 kbps. Is it normal ?


----------



## Tolstoi

I did multiple tests yesterday with XA2 running at 1080p24 and here some of the thing I have observed. I didn't have time to fully investigate them yet but some of these issues where experienced by others with different type of equipments and as a results I believe they are not Anthem D2 related.


I haven't confirmed yet if the XA2 output is a real 1080p24 pass-through. I will do that tonight.


When enabling PiP the output remained in 24fps. When watching SD material the output is still at 24fps. The XA2 doesn’t seams to be source direct such as the Pioneer BR. I haven't tested that with a SD DVD to see what will be sent to the D2. I will do that tonight.


During my tests I also experienced on 300 serious lip-sync delays when watching some of the features. But no lip-sync issue with the movie itself and not that I remember when watching the movie with Pip on. There seams to be lip-sync delays introduced when SD material is converted in 1080p24. Again I need to test that tonight with a SD DVD.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/11609843
> 
> 
> I feel like an idiot asking this after having been breastfed on this thread but here goes................
> 
> 
> Should I have the XA2 output HDMI 1080p24 to my D2 and then hdmi 1080P60 to my ruby as it does not do 1080P24. OR should I leave the output at 1080P60 from the XA2?
> 
> 
> Peter



I don't think you want the D2 to perform the P24 to P60 conversion. I would leave the XA2 in 1080p60.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/11610854
> 
> 
> Since the D2 is not decoding the DTS-HD MA, what exactly is coming out of it ? i thought it was getting only the DTS core on the LPCM track.
> 
> 
> Also, i played a DTS 96/24 from the PS3. One time on lpcm and one time on bistream. I got 6 ch 48 khz (pcm) and DTS 96/24 signal (bistream) at 1536 kbps. Is it normal ?



DTS-HD MA is made up of a "core" (lossy) audio track and extensions that add back in the parts that would otherwise be lost. It is done that way quite deliberately so that the "core" track is easy to extract -- essentially no processing is involved.


Traditional, lossy, DTS bitstreams come in a high and low bit rate form. The low bit rate form has about 1/2 the bandwidth of the high bit rate form. Early DTS tracks on standard DVDs were almost always the high bit rate form as DTS was trying to carve out its competitive position. DTS tracks on many standard DVDs today, however, are the low bit rate form.


The "core" track subset of a DTS-HD MA track is a high bit rate, lossy, traditional DTS bitstream.


-------------------------------------------


The raw PCM track found on many Blu-Ray discs is an uncompressed copy of the studio mix for the movie at a given bandwidth -- usually 48KHz. Since it has never been encoded, it is, by definition, a lossless track.


The result of fully decoding a DTS-HD MA track is a PCM track. The reductioin in size and bit rate resulting from the packing (encoding) of that track into DTS-HD MA means the studios have THE OPTION of using a higher quality PCM track as the source mix -- higher than 48KHz -- while still staying within the capacity and reading-the-disc bit rate limitations of the Blu-Ray disc format.


However, as of today, essentially nobody is taking advantage of that yet.


That is, the PCM which has been used as the source for the DTS-HD MA track is, quite likely, *ALSO* that same 48KHz mix. Which means the raw PCM track is identical to what would come out of fully decoding the DTS-HD MA track!


This may change over time, but right now, that's what most studios are doing. By the way, the PCM mix used as the source for the lossless Dolby TrueHD tracks is also, almost always, a 48KHz mix. As with DTS-HD MA, studios have THE OPTION of using a higher quality PCM mix as the source for their TrueHD tracks, but right now they don't.


[Note: There is a strangeness in the Toshiba HD-DVD players where a setting intended for the SPDIF output can cause the HDMI PCM output to upsample the 48KHz PCM to 96KHz -- and quite poorly by all accounts. If your Toshiba is sending out 96KHz from a 48KHz track you should make it stop doing that.]


--------------------------------------------


However, when you tell the player to send a bitstream version of the DTS-HD MA track over an SPDIF output or over HDMI V1.1 all you will get is the "core" or "compatibility" track. Again that is a LOSSY subset of the DTS-HD MA track -- essentially at the quality level of standard DVD DTS tracks.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.

I'm not sure if this was talked about but at CEDIA, Anthem "teamed up" with Panamorph which is a maker of anamorphic lenses for HT projectors. I'm not implying that this was some sort of partnership. They just so happened to be in the same booth which I believe helped show off how both products could complement one another.


This is panamorph's site: http://www.panamorph.com/ 


They had the JVC RS1 sitting behind the panamorph lense and used this setup to project the movie (Phantom of the Opera) on a masking 2:35 screen.


They first showed it masked in a 16 x 9 format and then hit a button where the masking came up to expose the 2:35 screen.


Basically you use the custom setting in the D2 to crop the specific input by adjusting (i.e. stretching) the vertical to 810 and use the anamorphic lens to optically stretch the image.


According to panamorph, about 70% of motion pictures are shot in 2:35. I believe that most of those are also 24 hz too.


I'm sure this was touched on in the past but just in case....


Jim


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yup! There's discussion of the Scale Out = Custom settings in the links collected in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, this thread just crossed 9000 posts.


Amazing.


--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11612095
> 
> 
> By the way, this thread just crossed 9000 posts.
> 
> 
> Amazing.
> 
> 
> --Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11612095
> 
> 
> By the way, this thread just crossed 9000 posts.
> 
> 
> Amazing.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Yes, and a substantial percentage of those has been you helping others out and disseminating valuable information in a very concise and accurate way.










Thanks a bunch from the club!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/11612809



And I read all of them at least once


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/11604455
> 
> 
> I have asked this question before but no answer. My AVM 50 never displays anything but 5.1 with any pcm output from my ps3. It never says *PCM*. Should it? With TrueHD again it displays 5.1. I have nothing overlayed over the original signal so this is what's on the display. Not to belabour the point but it would irritate me if my unit was not displaying the correct info even though it sounds like it is.



When I watch a DTS or 96/24 DVD on my 3910 I see the DTS or 96/24 on the Anthem Display, but when I play the same on the Xa2, all I see if a 5.1 on the Anthem display, why?



Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/11613318
> 
> 
> When I watch a DTS or 96/24 DVD on my 3910 I see the DTS or 96/24 on the Anthem Display, but when I play the same on the Xa2, all I see if a 5.1 on the Anthem display, why?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



Finally someone with the same issue. I don't get pcm anywhere on the screen. Just 5.1. This happens with both my XA2 and ps3.


Also would like to ask Bob, how do I tell my XA2 to stop upping the 48khz to 96? I don't see anything in the XA2 setup to change this behaviour.


John


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/11613318
> 
> 
> When I watch a DTS or 96/24 DVD on my 3910 I see the DTS or 96/24 on the Anthem Display, but when I play the same on the Xa2, all I see if a 5.1 on the Anthem display, why?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



The XA2 is decoding the audio.... you need to set the "Digital Output HDMI" on the XA2 to Auto if you want the bitstream sent down HDMI.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/11613884
> 
> 
> Also would like to ask Bob, how do I tell my XA2 to stop upping the 48khz to 96? I don't see anything in the XA2 setup to change this behaviour.
> 
> 
> John



To change the HDMI PCM sample rate out of the XA2, toggles the *Digital Output SPDIF* between Bitstream and PCM.


When the player is decoding into PCM, 5.1 is the correct display for the Anthem.


----------



## jayray

Filmmixer,


I haven't been on the Anthem for very long but I would like to add my thanks to you for your help and patience. I too think that this is one of the best if not best, threads on AVS. I can't recall a snarky response from anyone on this thread and it makes it easier to ask a question in the face of so many expert owners. Hopefully you will continue to frequent the forum.


thanks,

John


----------



## rx-8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/11614644
> 
> 
> Filmmixer,
> 
> 
> I haven't been on the Anthem for very long but I would like to add my thanks to you for your help and patience. I too think that this is one of the best if not best, threads on AVS. I can't recall a snarky response from anyone on this thread and it makes it easier to ask a question in the face of so many expert owners. Hopefully you will continue to frequent the forum.
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



+1


I am a lurker...I've been on the forum for a few years now but my post count is not very high. We are presently living in a condo so my HT are still ahead of me...hopefully that will happen next year.







I've already planned most of the equipment that I'll need and the D2 is at the top of the list. Hope to be posting my own personal comments then.


As for the quote above...this is the BEST thread without any doubt...you guys are GREAT !!!


Cheers,

Bill


----------



## TREVLAN

Hi everyone,


I've been in need of a new Reciver/AMP and currently having a hard time looking for one

Currently have a STRDA5ES from SONY.

I was looking at the DENON 4308 but I'm not sold on it.


So I was talking to my local dealer about the ANTHEM AVM50. is this the same as the "D2"??

Sorry I'm very much new to this.


I have STUDIO20';s for the front STUDIO CC-590 center and ADP390 for the surrounds and PS1200 sub.


How does this compare to the DENON4308 or even my current Sony 5ES?


the dealer said I should add the PVA5 to match up with the AVM50 is this the best match up?


I should note I watch 90% movies [blu-ray and dvd] DVD-Audio and SACD

have a PS3 for the bluray player a denon 2910 for the SACD and DVD-A and an HDcable box.

Tv set is SXRD XBR260' if this all even matters.


Sorry for such a long post but i'm at a lost and want to know if this would be my best bet I've never heard THX besides theaters so don't know how it is in a HT room. I will stop for now.


i am looking for the best bang for my buck without going broke and really want it to be worth it.

my wife and I really enjoy watching movies at home.




Thx for reading my sloppy typing.


----------



## jluloff

The video solution, and the degree of audio/video integration is identical in the AVM-50 and the Statement D2.


The D2 has a better power supply, a more "exotic" audio solution, spare DSP processing power that is expected to be utilized in a Room EQ solution "real soon now", and a bare handful of feature differences over the AVM-50


Information above thanks to Bob!!


I have the AVM50, MCA-50, MCA-20 and Studio 100's and the Sony "Pearl" and I love this setup. On the other hand I would have loved to have a D2, A5 and A2 instead but money was limited to get everything i wanted in my home theater...and I need something to dream about










There are a number of great individuals who post in this thread that could add more then I but I don't think you can go wrong with either choice...you will be happy!!


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11616201
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> I've been in need of a new Reciver/AMP and currently having a hard time looking for one
> 
> Currently have a STRDA5ES from SONY.
> 
> I was looking at the DENON 4308 but I'm not sold on it.
> 
> 
> So I was talking to my local dealer about the ANTHEM AVM50. is this the same as the "D2"??
> 
> Sorry I'm very much new to this.
> 
> 
> I have STUDIO20';s for the front STUDIO CC-590 center and ADP390 for the surrounds and PS1200 sub.
> 
> 
> How does this compare to the DENON4308 or even my current Sony 5ES?
> 
> 
> the dealer said I should add the PVA5 to match up with the AVM50 is this the best match up?
> 
> 
> I should note I watch 90% movies [blu-ray and dvd] DVD-Audio and SACD
> 
> have a PS3 for the bluray player a denon 2910 for the SACD and DVD-A and an HDcable box.
> 
> Tv set is SXRD XBR260' if this all even matters.
> 
> 
> Sorry for such a long post but i'm at a lost and want to know if this would be my best bet I've never heard THX besides theaters so don't know how it is in a HT room. I will stop for now.
> 
> 
> i am looking for the best bang for my buck without going broke and really want it to be worth it.
> 
> my wife and I really enjoy watching movies at home.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thx for reading my sloppy typing.



This question has been asked in various forms around 758 times in this thread and the overwhelming consensus is that either the AVM50 or D2 bests any of the brands you are considering and they are all excellent products.


This is the wrong environment to seek a destination as those of us who have come to the Anthem technology would be the first ones to insist that the discussion and selections are a part of a processs and not an ultimate static choice. We have ALL spent too much.....obsessed too much and agonized too much to have anything rational to offer other than an expression of hope that we have inched one step closer to the Home Theater Holy Grail with the purchase of the AVM 50 or the D2.


This obtuse answer is in liew of the profoundly logical and correct observations offered in the response above.


Peter


ps.....take the time if you are serious and read the thread.....it will either kill you or strengthen your budding resolve.


----------



## TREVLAN

Ok I'll go back and read the thread a little more.


but why this set up?

AVM50, MCA-50, MCA-20

or

D2, A5 and A2


do you need all 3 or is this for 7.1 systems.

I'm only doing 5.1 and don't plan on upgrading for a while.


Also could I just buy the D2 or AVM50 and use my DA5ES to run it??

with plans on getting the A5 at a later time.

Or is this not recommended.


Thanks again


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/11613169
> 
> 
> Yes, and a substantial percentage of those has been you helping others out and disseminating valuable information in a very concise and accurate way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a bunch from the club!



+ 1


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11616201
> 
> 
> 
> I should note I watch 90% movies [blu-ray and dvd] DVD-Audio and SACD
> 
> have a PS3 for the bluray player a denon 2910 for the SACD and DVD-A and an HDcable box.
> 
> Tv set is SXRD XBR260' if this all even matters.
> 
> 
> Sorry for such a long post but i'm at a lost and want to know if this would be my best bet I've never heard THX besides theaters so don't know how it is in a HT room. I will stop for now.
> 
> 
> i am looking for the best bang for my buck without going broke and really want it to be worth it.
> 
> my wife and I really enjoy watching movies at home.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thx for reading my sloppy typing.



Trevlan,


Think long and hard. The AVM-50 is serious money & the D2 is an extra 2K on top of that. If you like to tinker and appreciate the ability to go through progressions of firmware improvement (I do) then the Anthem provides serious flexibility. I have become disappointed in the current stall in software with some noticeable shortcomings, but I have confidence they will be fixed.


There are folks currently "downgrading from the Anthem to the Integra 9.8 which I'm interested in seeing the comparison.


The high end video was state of the art, but like much technology becomes commoditized and actually surpassed at much cheaper costs. But like waiting to buy a computer while waiting for the inevitable cheaper and faster one, you miss out on the joy of a solution in the interim.


I will probably be pilloried but the Anthem is stalled and there are newer generations of better and cheaper hardware coming out. The D3 will set a new technology standard on the curve when it comes out, but the current generation is ebbing as new products from other vendors come out with more of everything built in.


That said I love my Anthem, and I'm glad I did not add the 2K on top to get the D2, as the cost proposition is just not there (for me), despite extreme disappointment on the eq- solution not being available for the folks paying 4K plus the cost of Amps. I'm an Anthem fan, and even though I can easily afford the D2 upgrade, I'm not an Anthem fanboy or zealot. There are deficiencies, stability issues, and high cost, balanced with great service (until lately) and a well integrated solution which unfortunately doesn't have the capacity to support all my devices without external switchers and a variety of compatibility problems. So, especially because of the high cost, it will have to be pried out of my cold dead hands. OR being a realist, until a better solution comes around (look at the CEDIA news) for everyones subjective and configuration specific needs. Every home theater is a balance and just think hard what gives YOU the most enjoyment (typically the projector in most theaters) and build out from there.


Fan but not Fanboy,

Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Trevlan,

Just to make sure you don't draw the wrong impression from Tim's otherwise excellent post, the "D3" he refers to is, at this point, just a gleam in our eye -- the eventual new product platform that Anthem must, at some point, introduce.


But we have pretty active rumor mongers on this thread and so far there is not even the hint of a rumor that any such product is likely to come out soon.


------------------------------------------


As with all home theater products, the decision to buy at any point in time is fraught with difficulty. Where is this product in its

life cycle? What is the competition? Who do I trust to support their product better? What are the key factors in surrounding technology that will drive whether this given product satisfies me long enough to be a worthwhile purchase -- or will frustrate me because this product missed the mark in support for some feature or another?


And all of that has to be analyzed according to YOUR buying personality. Are you an "early adopter"? Or do you prefer "tried and true"?


-----------------------------------------


The earlier posts have stated the differences between the D2 and the AVM-50. Anthem also has a feature comparison chart in the AVM section of their web site. I'll just add that the long awaited Room EQ solution from Anthem (now apparently slated for around January) looks like it will only be available on the D2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11617346
> 
> 
> Ok I'll go back and read the thread a little more.
> 
> 
> but why this set up?
> 
> AVM50, MCA-50, MCA-20
> 
> or
> 
> D2, A5 and A2
> 
> 
> do you need all 3 or is this for 7.1 systems.
> 
> I'm only doing 5.1 and don't plan on upgrading for a while.
> 
> 
> Also could I just buy the D2 or AVM50 and use my DA5ES to run it??
> 
> with plans on getting the A5 at a later time.
> 
> Or is this not recommended.
> 
> 
> Thanks again



The MCA-50 and the A5 are 5-channel power amps. The MCA-20 and A2 are 2-channel power amps. Your subwoofer will undoubtedly contain its own power amp.


So for a 5.1 speaker setup you don't need either the MCA-20 or the A2.


The same is true for Anthem's more expensive P5 and P2 power amps.


--------------------------------------


The AVM-50 or D2 are "pre-amp/processors". For audio, they put out line level outputs that will drive ANY multi-channel home theater power amp or combination of power amps. Whether you buy new power amps when you buy the AVM-50 or D2 is up to you.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11617346
> 
> 
> Ok I'll go back and read the thread a little more.
> 
> 
> but why this set up?
> 
> AVM50, MCA-50, MCA-20
> 
> or
> 
> D2, A5 and A2
> 
> 
> do you need all 3 or is this for 7.1 systems.
> 
> I'm only doing 5.1 and don't plan on upgrading for a while.
> 
> 
> Also could I just buy the D2 or AVM50 and use my DA5ES to run it??
> 
> with plans on getting the A5 at a later time.
> 
> Or is this not recommended.
> 
> 
> Thanks again



No, you don't need all three for a 5.1 system if your sub is powered.


I'm actually using a Rotel 7 channel ICE-power amp. I'm sure the Anthem amplifiers are great, but they would be overkill for my room.


Does the DA5ES allow you to go direct in and use just the amps? If they are decent amps that might work fine for now.


Ultimately you will probably want a dedicated multichannel amp (or even pairs of monoblocks) that matches the quality level of the AVM/D2. I'm not familiar with the speakers, but the idea is to have all the components be playing in the same league.


AVM50 vs. D2 - as Tim said, it's a lot of coin. When I purchased, it was the D2 or nothing, as the AVM50 wasn't around. Now the choice is - do you NEED the room eq feature that is upcoming? If so, you will have to pay the extra. If not, you still have one of the top video and audio prepros around.


I love to watch movies as well, a LOT - but I am also a former professsional musician/recording engineer, so I also have to have the best audio I can get. Knowing I am going to spend close to two grand on room treatments, I myself would pay the extra and buy the D2 again in a heartbeat.


But you may find that the extra 2 grand could get you most of the way to a front projector - which is the one thing I would recommend for you if you love movies. You just can't believe how nice a good 1080p PJ and the AVM/D2 make your movie viewing experience! (My wife and were averaging 4 movies a week all this summer...)


----------



## obie_fl

This talk of a D3 got me to thinking. Does anyone think we may see a D2 upgrade or refresh (call it Series II) before a totally new platform is introduced? I wouldn't mind seeing an update to add HDMI 1.3 and possibly an updated Gennum video processor. I realize that high speed bitstream and decoding of the newer codecs isn't really required today but sooner or later Anthem will move to this pardigm. I'm just curious if it has to wait for a total platform redesign, i.e. the mythical "D3".


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/11622050
> 
> 
> This talk of a D3 got me to thinking. Does anyone think we may see a D2 upgrade or refresh (call it Series II) before a totally new platform is introduced? I wouldn't mind seeing an update to add HDMI 1.3 and possibly an updated Gennum video processor. I realize that high speed bitstream and decoding of the newer codecs isn't really required today but sooner or later Anthem will move to this pardigm. I'm just curious if it has to wait for a total platform redesign, i.e. the mythical "D3".



The audio processing board and the video processing board are both modular.


Anything that requires connector changes (i.e., more HDMI ins and outs) is a problem.


The power supply is probably good. The analog output design is good -- although they'd probably add a few more channels.


So when and if they do a platform revamp, providing an upgrade should not be impossible. However you ARE talking about replacing pretty much all the smarts and signal paths so I would imagine an upgrade would be quite expensive.


I guess my point is that if and when they decide to go HDMI V1.3 and/or 7.1 channel it would probably make more sense to offer it as a new product rather than just an incremental improvement to the D2 / AVM-50 stuff.


Which is another reason to think it is probably quite a ways off.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

My view?

D2 w\\ Room EQ, has seen all that can be done to it.

D3? 2010 maybe.


I would also like to give kudos to all who provide advice on this thread.

I think it's a testament to the gear and the owners.


----------



## im the man

Hello, Im new to the D2 family. I bought my D2 less than 2 weeks ago. My dealers installer came over and hooked it up, it was working fine. Over the last couple of days though I have been having problems with the D2. It is having problems locking onto a signal when I turn it onto my cable box or xbox 360. When the problem first started the screen would flicker I would get the blue screen but eventually it would lock on and I would get a picture. Now it's become progressively worse and all I have is just a blue screen or I'll see the picture for a split second and then it will be gone and go back to the blue screen. There is sound but no picture. Both the cable box and 360 are running through component video. I aslo have a PS3 and my DVD player running through it, which are running HDMI. I do not have any of these issues with these components.


Could somebody please help with this issue. I would greatly appreciate it, thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *im the man* /forum/post/11624961
> 
> 
> Hello, Im new to the D2 family. I bought my D2 less than 2 weeks ago. My dealers installer came over and hooked it up, it was working fine. Over the last couple of days though I have been having problems with the D2. It is having problems locking onto a signal when I turn it onto my cable box or xbox 360. When the problem first started the screen would flicker I would get the blue screen but eventually it would lock on and I would get a picture. Now it's become progressively worse and all I have is just a blue screen or I'll see the picture for a split second and then it will be gone and go back to the blue screen. There is sound but no picture. Both the cable box and 360 are running through component video. I aslo have a PS3 and my DVD player running through it, which are running HDMI. I do not have any of these issues with these components.
> 
> 
> Could somebody please help with this issue. I would greatly appreciate it, thanks!



Since yours is a new D2, the odds are you have the latest software, but it is best to start with that.


Press Select once on the D2 remote and the software version number will come up at the end of the first line of status text on the front panel display -- and also on your TV if you have the On Screen Display turned on. It will likely be something like V1.2. Let us know precisely what it says.


Since you are running other sources which are HDMI, I presume you are running HDMI to your TV when you are having these input problems from your Component sources. If that is not correct please tell us.


View one of the Component sources that is giving you the blue screen. Press Select on the remote repeatedly (to bring up the various status messages) and tell us what it is showing for video input signal (if anything) and any other info that appears odd to you.


With that same Component source selected, press and hold "7" on the remote until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up. Scroll right to the info panel. Please report what it is showing for both video input and video output.


Now scroll left to the Output panel, scroll down to the Frame Lock item and confirm that Frame Lock = OFF is set. If by any chance it was set to Auto, see if setting it to OFF fixes your problem.


Since you are seeing this on two different Component sources and not on two other, different HDMI sources, I think it unlikely that you have a cable problem or a scaler problem but you might have a problem in the circuit that syncs to, and digitizes, the analog Component video input signal. Let's see if the problem is input resolution dependent.


Take either Component video source and set its output to the D2 to 480i. Do you get a good picture? Now try 480p. Do you get a good picture?


If you get a good picture at 480i or 480p, go back into Video Source Adjust / Info and confirm that the video input resolution is reporting 720x480i or 720x480p respectively. Then try setting the Component video source's output to 720 and then to 1080i. Do you lose the picture? Does any message come up that mentions "Macrovision"? Macrovision is a copy protection scheme for Component video.


Let's leave it at that to start. I'm afraid, the most likely answer here is that you have a hardware fault in the Component input portion of your D2. If nothing obvious suggests itself in what you report back, your best bet is to talk to your dealer about arranging a swap out of your new D2 for a replacement D2 (i.e., where you hold on to your current D2 until the replacement arrives). That way you won't be completely without a D2 in the interim.


While awaiting the swap unit, you may be able to use your Component sources via either processed Component output, or unprocessed "pass through" of the Component video on the Zone 2 outputs. Either of those would involve running Component output cables from the D2 to your TV in addition to the HDMI cable.

--Bob


----------



## im the man




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11625328
> 
> 
> Since yours is a new D2, the odds are you have the latest software, but it is best to start with that.
> 
> 
> Press Select once on the D2 remote and the software version number will come up at the end of the first line of status text on the front panel display -- and also on your TV if you have the On Screen Display turned on. It will likely be something like V1.2. Let us know precisely what it says.
> 
> 
> Since you are running other sources which are HDMI, I presume you are running HDMI to your TV when you are having these input problems from your Component sources. If that is not correct please tell us.
> 
> 
> View one of the Component sources that is giving you the blue screen. Press Select on the remote repeatedly (to bring up the various status messages) and tell us what it is showing for video input signal (if anything) and any other info that appears odd to you.
> 
> 
> With that same Component source selected, press and hold "7" on the remote until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up. Scroll right to the info panel. Please report what it is showing for both video input and video output.
> 
> 
> Now scroll left to the Output panel, scroll down to the Frame Lock item and confirm that Frame Lock = OFF is set. If by any chance it was set to Auto, see if setting it to OFF fixes your problem.
> 
> 
> Since you are seeing this on two different Component sources and not on two other, different HDMI sources, I think it unlikely that you have a cable problem or a scaler problem but you might have a problem in the circuit that syncs to, and digitizes, the analog Component video input signal. Let's see if the problem is input resolution dependent.
> 
> 
> Take either Component video source and set its output to the D2 to 480i. Do you get a good picture? Now try 480p. Do you get a good picture?
> 
> 
> If you get a good picture at 480i or 480p, go back into Video Source Adjust / Info and confirm that the video input resolution is reporting 720x480i or 720x480p respectively. Then try setting the Component video source's output to 720 and then to 1080i. Do you lose the picture? Does any message come up that mentions "Macrovision"? Macrovision is a copy protection scheme for Component video.
> 
> 
> Let's leave it at that to start. I'm afraid, the most likely answer here is that you have a hardware fault in the Component input portion of your D2. If nothing obvious suggests itself in what you report back, your best bet is to talk to your dealer about arranging a swap out of your new D2 for a replacement D2 (i.e., where you hold on to your current D2 until the replacement arrives). That way you won't be completely without a D2 in the interim.
> 
> 
> While awaiting the swap unit, you may be able to use your Component sources via either processed Component output, or unprocessed "pass through" of the Component video on the Zone 2 outputs. Either of those would involve running Component output cables from the D2 to your TV in addition to the HDMI cable.
> 
> --Bob



Yes I have the v 1.2, yes I am running HDMI to my TV. Video input signal 720x480i is the signal. Video input 4:44 component Video output, 1080Px1920. Frame lock is off. While doing your recommendations I tried to bring up the setup menu, it won't let me access it looks scrambled. When I did this I lost my picture again. I hit the select button again and it said the video input had no signal. How do I access the 480i and 480p to change my resolution?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *im the man* /forum/post/11625824
> 
> 
> Yes I have the v 1.2, yes I am running HDMI to my TV. Video input signal 720x480i is the signal. Video input 4:44 component Video output, 1080Px1920. Frame lock is off. While doing your recommendations I tried to bring up the setup menu, it won't let me access it looks scrambled. When I did this I lost my picture again. I hit the select button again and it said the video input had no signal. How do I access the 480i and 480p to change my resolution?



Let me see if I understand you.


You were getting a GOOD Component video input picture when the D2 said it was receiving 720x480i? And then when you attempted to go into the D2's own Setup menu you lost the picture?


Or when you went into the setup menu of your Component source device you lost the picture?


-----------------------------------------------


I'm assuming the HDMI output side of your D2 setup is solid. That is, bringing up the D2's own Setup menu, or the Video Source Adjust menu (including its test Patterns) works just fine when you select an input that has no video source device connected, as does regular video programming from your HDMI source devices. If any of that is not true, then we need to check the output side of your D2 setup further.


-----------------------------------------------


If what you meant was that you lost the picture while trying to bring up the setup menu of your Component source device then that's more of the same problem we were tackling with the previous set of suggestions.


I don't know what you have available in your Component cable box or Xbox to set its video output without a working TV image. The Motorola cable boxes have a front panel display that you can use for this for example. Barring that, you may have to attach them via Component cables directly to your TV to check their settings.


Another thing to try: Turn off the D2 with the remote. Then power off the D2 using the power switch on it's back panel. Then turn the D2 back on again (back panel, and then remote). It is barely possible that this may clear whatever problem it is having on the Component input.


Also, consider whether your D2 might not be getting enough ventilation. This is UNLIKELY to be the problem since your HDMI sources are working fine, but if you have any reason to be concerned that the ventilation might not be adequate, see if using an external fan or some such helps.

--Bob


----------



## im the man




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11626002
> 
> 
> Let me see if I understand you.
> 
> 
> You were getting a GOOD Component video input picture when the D2 said it was receiving 720x480i? And then when you attempted to go into the D2's own Setup menu you lost the picture?
> 
> 
> Or when you went into the setup menu of your Component source device you lost the picture?
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I'm assuming the HDMI output side of your D2 setup is solid. That is, bringing up the D2's own Setup menu, or the Video Source Adjust menu (including its test Patterns) works just fine when you select an input that has no video source device connected, as does regular video programming from your HDMI source devices. If any of that is not true, then we need to check the output side of your D2 setup further.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If what you meant was that you lost the picture while trying to bring up the setup menu of your Component source device then that's more of the same problem we were tackling with the previous set of suggestions.
> 
> 
> I don't know what you have available in your Component cable box or Xbox to set its video output without a working TV image. The Motorola cable boxes have a front panel display that you can use for this for example. Barring that, you may have to attach them via Component cables directly to your TV to check their settings.
> 
> 
> Another thing to try: Turn off the D2 with the remote. Then power off the D2 using the power switch on it's back panel. Then turn the D2 back on again (back panel, and then remote). It is barely possible that this may clear whatever problem it is having on the Component input.
> 
> 
> Also, consider whether your D2 might not be getting enough ventilation. This is UNLIKELY to be the problem since your HDMI sources are working fine, but if you have any reason to be concerned that the ventilation might not be adequate, see if using an external fan or some such helps.
> 
> --Bob



Yes I was getting a good picture when it said 720x480i. Tried resetting the unit no luck. I have plenty of venilation so I don't think that's the problem. Thanks for your suggestions. Im having the installer come back on Monday and take a look at it then. I'll keep you posted. One other thing, how do select what your picture is going to be 480i 480p etc. How do I pull that up. Do I have to change it back and fourth everytime I switch from TV to blue ray for instance?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *im the man* /forum/post/11626383
> 
> 
> Yes I was getting a good picture when it said 720x480i. Tried resetting the unit no luck. I have plenty of venilation so I don't think that's the problem. Thanks for your suggestions. Im having the installer come back on Monday and take a look at it then. I'll keep you posted. One other thing, how do select what your picture is going to be 480i 480p etc. How do I pull that up. Do I have to change it back and fourth everytime I switch from TV to blue ray for instance?



Well it sounds like you do have a problem with the Component video inputs. You'll need to work it with your dealer and Anthem tech support. Hopefully Anthem can arrange a swap out unit for you quickly.


I'm not sure what you are asking on the 480i, etc., question.


You set the video output of the Anthem to what works best for your TV (in the Setup / Video Output menu). Then it is the Anthem's job to convert all the different forms of video input to that one best style of video output.


Typically you will set each video input device to do as little as possible to the source content before sending it along to the D2. Let the D2 do all the work. So for example your cable box should be set to send 480i to the D2 when you are watching SDTV channels and to send either 720p or 1080i to the D2 when watching HDTV -- according to what's coming in on that HDTV channel at the moment.


For the basics, read the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post linked in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## im the man

Thanks for your help!


----------



## TREVLAN

Thx for all the replys.


What a wealth of help and knoladge[sp?] this thread has.


What is "room eq feature" that you all are talking about?

Is there somewhere I can read about it with out you having to retype the answer or something.


And for the SONYda5es it is running at 120watts would this be an OK fix to run the AVM50 untill I get another grand to buy the PVA5?


And one last thing, I'm not sure if I'm reading right but it almost seems like Anthem is a great line but a little aged. so then should I wait for the next gen of Anthem or just get into it now...i'm was ready to jump on the DENON4308 but without THX and hearing from others that the anthem line is pretty great i'm back at square one now...


----------



## mr_fitz

Is it required to use 24AWG or will 28AWG HDMI cables be suffice when hooking up a bluray player and my hdpvr to my D2? Length is 6ft.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11627415
> 
> 
> Thx for all the replys.
> 
> 
> What a wealth of help and knoladge[sp?] this thread has.
> 
> 
> What is "room eq feature" that you all are talking about?
> 
> Is there somewhere I can read about it with out you having to retype the answer or something.
> 
> 
> And for the SONYda5es it is running at 120watts would this be an OK fix to run the AVM50 untill I get another grand to buy the PVA5?
> 
> 
> And one last thing, I'm not sure if I'm reading right but it almost seems like Anthem is a great line but a little aged. so then should I wait for the next gen of Anthem or just get into it now...i'm was ready to jump on the DENON4308 but without THX and hearing from others that the anthem line is pretty great i'm back at square one now...



Trevlan,

Every listening room colors the audio you hear, some more than others.


There are automated systems that will correct for room effects -- Room Equalization. In simple terms the automated system generates some sounds which are picked up by a microphone connected during the measurement. The system then loads correction information into its audio processing which is used during normal listening.


Doing this well is quite difficult.


Anthem has some very talented people working on their version. But it has been delayed in release for over a year beyond when people expected it -- partly due to the unexpected difficulties in making HDMI connections work in the real world. It appears the Room EQ upgrade will now ship after Christmas. The cost is supposed to be $300 -- including a calibrated microphone, system software in the Anthem, and testing/calculating software that runs on a Windows PC during the testing/measurement phase when you are setting things up.


The Room EQ software takes advantage of the extra DSP processing power in the D2 hardware. It appears it will not be available for AVM-50 owners.


---------------------------------------------


The problem with recommending power amps is that what works best depends so much on your speakers, your listening room, and your own personal capacity for critical listening.


Generally speaking so long as your power amp is adequately sized for your speakers you will get more advantage upgrading your speakers FIRST and then your power amp.


But really the only way to judge this stuff is to try it yourself. Dealers in better quality products can often arrange for you to borrow a store unit for a while to do some in-home listening.


And as soon as you think you've figured out processors, amps, and speakers, you will find out that those in the know ALSO want you to do "room treatment". This is the placement of materials in the listening room to improve the room's acoustics -- its room response. Indeed if your room was acoustically perfect you wouldn't NEED any automated Room EQ feature.


Welcome to the wonderful and exasperating hobby of home theater! There's always room for improvement! (grin!)


The trick with all of this stuff is to develop your own ability to compare stuff. Most of the posters in this thread will agree that the AVM-50 and D2 pre-amp/processors are exceptional products, but you'll never be fully satisified with a purchase until you feel you can hear (and see) the differences yourself.


There are lots of posts in this thread collected in links in the first post in this thread. Those posts may help you get a handle on some of the more confusing aspects of these complicated products.


-------------------------------------------------


As to product life cycle, I would suggest that you NOT wait at this point for some potential "new" version of the Anthem products. The AVM-50 and D2 are nowhere near the end of their life-cycle.


in terms of comparison with other products, the other manufacturers are reaching into the area that Anthem pioneered. But in my opinion they aint there yet.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz

I am having a seriously hard debate between a 720p and a 1080p projector. My screen is only 96" and I am sitting 13-14ft away. I have compared the two panasonic models (ptax100 and ptae1000) in the store and at my viewing distance I have to stare really hard to see the difference. It is slightly sharper in background detail. Would the picture difference be greater between the two when hooked up to my D2? It was hooked up to the blu ray player directly with component run to the ptax100 and hdmi sent to the ptae1000.


I don't want to spend twice the money on a projector to not see any difference. But I also don't want to waste my money by only spending half when I could possibly enjoy the 1080p so much more when hooked up to the D2.


I guess I'm really wondering whether or not the D2 will make the picture difference between 720 and 1080 that much greater.


Thanks


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11628098
> 
> 
> Is it required to use 24AWG or will 28AWG HDMI cables be suffice when hooking up a bluray player and my hdpvr to my D2? Length is 6ft.
> 
> 
> John



The critical factors in HDMI cable design are not all that strongly related to the gauge of the conductors.


Here's an article from Blue Jeans Cable that may help you get a handle on what's really going on.


Or it may just scare the heck out of you as to whether ANY of this HDMI stuff can really be made to work reliably:

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articl...-with-hdmi.htm 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11628215
> 
> 
> I am having a seriously hard debate between a 720p and a 1080p projector. My screen is only 96" and I am sitting 13-14ft away. I have compared the two panasonic models (ptax100 and ptae1000) in the store and at my viewing distance I have to stare really hard to see the difference. It is slightly sharper in background detail. Would the picture difference be greater between the two when hooked up to my D2? It was hooked up to the blu ray player directly with component run to the ptax100 and hdmi sent to the ptae1000.
> 
> 
> I don't want to spend twice the money on a projector to not see any difference. But I also don't want to waste my money by only spending half when I could possibly enjoy the 1080p so much more when hooked up to the D2.
> 
> 
> I guess I'm really wondering whether or not the D2 will make the picture difference between 720 and 1080 that much greater.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



I would recommend you step up to a decent quality 1080p system.


The issue is not really whether your eye can resolve the difference between 720p and 1080p. It is that the content of interest is going to 1080p and whatever you can do to eliminate processing steps is A GOOD THING.


If you go with a 720p display, you are requiring that scaling must be done for 1080i and 1080p content.


So the choice between 720p and 1080p, in my opinion, should not be based so much on price as on your take of whether the 1080p display does a decent job of displaying 1080p content -- or whether they cut some corners.


This past year you could probably buy 720p displays that were quantitatively and qualitatively superior to 1080p displays at doing the part of the job that only the display can do -- making sure all the pixels fire when they are supposed to and that the full gray scale and color gamut are reproduced in a properly linear fashion.


This year I suspect these reproduction quality factors will swing strongly in the favor of 1080p displays. But 1080p is still a (disproportionately) premium price product. If you can wait even until just next spring, I think the pricing will be less painful.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11628215
> 
> 
> I don't want to spend twice the money on a projector to not see any difference.
> 
> John



Try looking at a SONY VPL-VW60 and you'll see the difference.


Panasonic PJs are not good choices for a THEATER.


I have not seen one - but you should look into the Sanyo

- Just announced at CEDIA if Dollars is your largest concern.


I may even BUY the Sanyo when I see it for one of my

THREE Theaters where I don't need such a high-end PJ


----------



## mahdlokg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/8378968
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I am using Canton "Ergo" Series speakers the models are as follows:
> 
> 
> Mains - 611 DC
> 
> Center - 605 CM
> 
> Rear Channel surrounds - 601 On walls
> 
> Surrounds - Axiom QS8 Quadpolars
> 
> Subwoofers - SV Sounds 20-39 PC Plus 12.3 ( front ) & Canton AS 650 SC (rear)
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Are you still enjoying your Canton Ergo line speakers? How do you characterize them? Neutral? Warm? Bright? Are any particular frequencies emphasized more than others? Any info on these would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.


----------



## thebland

Does the Anthem expand 5.1 LPCM to 7.1 channels?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/11632109
> 
> 
> Does the Anthem expand 5.1 LPCM to 7.1 channels?



Yes, if you are using Dolby PLIIx or one of the THX modes that supports 7.1. I'm actually using a 6.1 system with no center channel but 2 rears. Works great.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11630121
> 
> 
> Try looking at a SONY VPL-VW60 and you'll see the difference.
> 
> 
> Panasonic PJs are not good choices for a THEATER.
> 
> 
> I have not seen one - but you should look into the Sanyo
> 
> - Just announced at CEDIA if Dollars is your largest concern.
> 
> 
> I may even BUY the Sanyo when I see it for one of my
> 
> THREE Theaters where I don't need such a high-end PJ



The dilemna is I have access to epson, panasonic and possibly sony projectors at cost. I have never been a real big fan of the smooth screen technology in panasonic. Projectors are so much cheaper in the US.


----------



## tngiloy

I'm throwing these questions out to all D2 owners.

Have you had to send your D2 back to Anthem because of video problems?

How long did it take to get it back?

Did you have trouble communicating with Anthem during the repair process?

Did your dealer provide you with a 'loaner' unit during the repair process?

Please feel free to reply in a pm

Tom G.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/11632109
> 
> 
> Does the Anthem expand 5.1 LPCM to 7.1 channels?



The 7.1 expansion is post processed. This is one area where the Anthem (again) shows it's age. Now that there is (however minimal) software content available mastered in 6 and 7 main channels, and if you buy the line that decoding should be done in the an HD or Blue-ray player (a line I happen to buy), ALL the more reason the PCM meets the number of channels.


I can tell you that rear effects and ceiling effects do matter, and not having to synthesize the rears after receiving a "clean" 5.1 PCM stream, is important to me.


Personally I can't see having a high end processor and only having 5.1 speakers. For this class of equipment 7.2 should be the norm except where real estate just doesn't allow it.


NOTE: I take this thread as a place to help folks and give honest feedback. As much as I may favor any vendor based on experience, even the best have valid criticisms associated with them. I appreciate folks like Hank and others who point out alternatives in terms of product choices understanding that situations vary person to person. A little devil's advocacy never hurts in terms of consumer collaboration on future product desires and keeping a healthy competitive marketplace which benefits us all.


----------



## Vikingmd

I asked this question before but I wanted to revisit it. I am still having audio dropout with my AVM-50 and PS3. I have no problems with my Series 3 Tivo and few with my HDXA1.


I have 1.11g. Does the beta 1.12s fix this issue or am I the only person experiencing this phenomena?


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/11633007
> 
> 
> I'm throwing these questions out to all D2 owners.
> 
> Have you had to send your D2 back to Anthem because of video problems?
> 
> How long did it take to get it back?
> 
> Did you have trouble communicating with Anthem during the repair process?
> 
> Did your dealer provide you with a 'loaner' unit during the repair process?
> 
> Please feel free to reply in a pm
> 
> Tom G.



I had a defective video board from day one of ownership but lived with it for a month or two since nhl playoffs were on. It took 3 1/2 weeks to get it back from Anthem from the day I shipped it out. (Ottawa to Mississauga) My returned unit had a defective osd so they are now sending me a new unit by UPS. Although I've had my share of problems with the unit I will not give it up. While my D2 was away I hooked up my Onkyo receiver to my Anthem power amp and it was like I was listening to my music and movies with earmuffs on.


Nick is very quick to respond to people with problems and was a pleasure to deal with. Most times he responded to my email the same day. No loaner for me though.


John


----------



## PooperScooper

Well I was hoping the third time was a charm, but my 3rd D2 suffers the "crackling in all but F L/R with MCH PCM" worse than my second unit. I'd almost think it was something in my setup but my first D2 worked just fine until the video unit gave up the ghost. Nothing has changed in my setup. And it's not too hot, not crappy cables, yadda yadda yadda.


larry


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/11633986
> 
> 
> Well I was hoping the third time was a charm, but my 3rd D2 suffers the "crackling in all but F L/R with MCH PCM" worse than my second unit. I'd almost think it was something in my setup but my first D2 worked just fine until the video unit gave up the ghost. Nothing has changed in my setup. And it's not too hot, not crappy cables, yadda yadda yadda.
> 
> 
> larry



Nick told me my "crackling in all but F L/R with MCH PCM" was due to a broken pin inside a regulator (i.e. a bad component), and the same symptom in another person's D2 was a faulty ribbon cable. The replacement unit they sent me works fine.


----------



## Justin73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/11633007
> 
> 
> I'm throwing these questions out to all D2 owners.
> 
> Have you had to send your D2 back to Anthem because of video problems?
> 
> How long did it take to get it back?
> 
> Did you have trouble communicating with Anthem during the repair process?
> 
> Did your dealer provide you with a 'loaner' unit during the repair process?
> 
> Please feel free to reply in a pm
> 
> Tom G.



--The first D2 unit that was shipped to me was defective, it would not even power up right out of the box.

--From the time that I shipped it back to the time that I received a replacement was about 4 weeks.

--Communication via email with Anthem Tech Support was usually answered either the same day, or the next business day.

--I did not get a loaner unit but I had an old Denon receiver that I used as my temporary Pre/Pro until the replacement arrived.

I would have to say that all the good things that you hear about Anthem's Tech Support are all TRUE!! These guys are truly top notch.


Justin


----------



## slots1

As a new and happy owner of a D2, my only response is that Justin73 lives in Canada, so why would it take four weeks to get a replacement?. I could see it taking longer if it was being repaired, maybe three weeks.

Four weeks in the US to Canada would certainly be a reasonable time frame. I assume delivery should take no more then 3 days, maybe one week turn around and three days back in Canada. No more then 2 weeks.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/11635680
> 
> 
> As a new and happy owner of a D2, my only response is that Justin73 lives in Canada, so why would it take four weeks to get a replacement?. I could see it taking longer if it was being repaired, maybe three weeks.
> 
> Four weeks in the US to Canada would certainly be a reasonable time frame. I assume delivery should take no more then 3 days, maybe one week turn around and three days back in Canada. No more then 2 weeks.



Back order of D2's. All of the units have been spoken for for weeks. If they have no units to send out for 10 days then you need to wait. Like I have been for the last week for my replacement.


----------



## Justin73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11636118
> 
> 
> Back order of D2's. All of the units have been spoken for for weeks. If they have no units to send out for 10 days then you need to wait. Like I have been for the last week for my replacement.



mr_fitz, you hit the nail right on the head. At that time, the D2 was heavily back-ordered. When I phoned Anthem Tech Support for an RMA, I was told that it would be at least a 3-4 week wait for a replacement to be shipped out. Under normal circumstances the turn around time should have only been 7-10 days max. It was basically just a case of bad luck and rotten timing.


----------



## slots1

mr_fitz, you hit the nail right on the head. At that time, the D2 was heavily back-ordered. When I phoned Anthem Tech Support for an RMA, I was told that it would be at least a 3-4 week wait for a replacement to be shipped out. Under normal circumstances the turn around time should have only been 7-10 days max. It was basically just a case of bad luck and rotten timing.


Very reasonable explanation. I think they seem to be their best on a very popular product. Does anyone have a figure on how many D2's and D1's are among us?

Gerry


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/11634018
> 
> 
> Nick told me my "crackling in all but F L/R with MCH PCM" was due to a broken pin inside a regulator (i.e. a bad component), and the same symptom in another person's D2 was a faulty ribbon cable. The replacement unit they sent me works fine.



Yes, he told me the same thing after they decided it wasn't software related a while back. I'm beginning to think the shipping route to my dealer has a driver that likes to throw things around.







What are the odds of this happening? I just need a working unit by next month. There's like 5-10 hidef discs I have pre-ordered coming out in October. I don't need MCH PCM for anything else.


larry


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11633501
> 
> 
> The 7.1 expansion is post processed. This is one area where the Anthem (again) shows it's age. Now that there is (however minimal) software content available mastered in 6 and 7 main channels, and if you buy the line that decoding should be done in the an HD or Blue-ray player (a line I happen to buy), ALL the more reason the PCM meets the number of channels.
> 
> 
> I can tell you that rear effects and ceiling effects do matter, and not having to synthesize the rears after receiving a "clean" 5.1 PCM stream, is important to me.
> 
> 
> Personally I can't see having a high end processor and only having 5.1 speakers. For this class of equipment 7.2 should be the norm except where real estate just doesn't allow it.
> 
> 
> NOTE: I take this thread as a place to help folks and give honest feedback. As much as I may favor any vendor based on experience, even the best have valid criticisms associated with them. I appreciate folks like Hank and others who point out alternatives in terms of product choices understanding that situations vary person to person. A little devil's advocacy never hurts in terms of consumer collaboration on future product desires and keeping a healthy competitive marketplace which benefits us all.



Tim, I can't disagree with the sentiments expressed here but I believe this is the wrong thread for your discussion. This is supposed to be the "Tweaking " thread for the D2 or AVM 50. The fact that we have had so many challenges with basic configuration has prevented us from engaging in significant progress on calibration. This is for owners of the D2/AVM who are trying to optimize the performance of their investment not evaluate it against other brands.....there are other threads for that.


Other than obvious systemic problems with servicing this technology of which the overwhelming majority of contributers to this thread would argue otherwise there are other threads that have been initialized to deal with those aspects and you might consider offering your perspective there.


We have seen this thread aggregate some of the most knowledgeable and least confrontational resources in this forum. Their bias and affinity for this technology is not hidden nor misaligned with the purpose of this thread. I want the passion for this technology to be the fuel for those who know more and are willing to try and help me get the best experience possible from my purchase.


Again, regardless for the rationale, I bought the D2, love the D2 and want to make sure that I get the most possible from its deployment in a very complex soup of technological hurdles with other mostly inferior brands of peripherals.


On one point however we are in profound agreement and this is certainly the place for an extended conversation which I hope the management team at Anthem observes. It is clear that there should be no higher priority for the company right now than finalizing and releasing Version 1.5 (get some distance from all the betas and experiments). That is stop all activities including the equalizer stuff which will be in fact a little saner to attack once the full production release has by in large been stabilized to a known state. The failure to address this once and for all will grow into a serious Achilles heel for the company which I don't think any of us hopes to see. This in turn will begin to move us from configuration issues and initiate the first real substantial momentum toward calibration of our environments.


I hope I have provided a catalyst for the "club" to rally around that Anthem might respect and acknowledge.


Peter


----------



## adidino

Well... this one is killing me.. I ran the THX contrast test and the first thing I notice.. The very first test pattern fails miserably. What I should see are various shades of white/gray, instead I get one solid shade. I'm not able to distinguish the 8 different shades . The D2 is connected to my Sony VW100. However, if I bypass the D2 contrast seems good. I run the same test on my Pioneer Elite plasma, test patterns looks correct (D2 not running to the Plasma).


Ruby video settings are set to 50%. Video source is an Esient DMDm100 through a Sony 777ES set to 480i


Any ideas anyone?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/11636951
> 
> 
> mr_fitz, you hit the nail right on the head. At that time, the D2 was heavily back-ordered. When I phoned Anthem Tech Support for an RMA, I was told that it would be at least a 3-4 week wait for a replacement to be shipped out. Under normal circumstances the turn around time should have only been 7-10 days max. It was basically just a case of bad luck and rotten timing.
> 
> 
> Very reasonable explanation. I think they seem to be their best on a very popular product. Does anyone have a figure on how many D2's and D1's are among us?
> 
> Gerry



I dropped the D2 off at my dealer in Denver on 9/5. UPS shipping claims it reached its destination in Buffalo N.Y. on 9/11. I have to assume that it needs to go thru customs from there. As of Friday Anthem still hadn't let me know if it was there or not.

I can only hope it appears on the other side of the custom's wormhole and in the parallel world we here know as Canada in the not too distant future.

But if it shows up at Anthem on Monday, that will already have been 2 weeks, and it still has to be repaired or replaced, and then make the return journey.

I will be surprised if it takes less than 5-6 weeks total. TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE FOR A PRODUCT THAT COSTS THIS MUCH!

I'm seriously considering trading down to a D1 to avoid future video meltdowns in the D2 and the excessive related downtime.

Tom


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino* /forum/post/11639055
> 
> 
> Well... this one is killing me.. I ran the THX contrast test and the first thing I notice.. The very first test pattern fails miserably. What I should see are various shades of white/gray, instead I get one solid shade. I'm not able to distinguish the 8 different shades . The D2 is connected to my Sony VW100. However, if I bypass the D2 contrast seems good. I run the same test on my Pioneer Elite plasma, test patterns looks correct (D2 not running to the Plasma).
> 
> 
> Ruby video settings are set to 50%. Video source is an Esient DMDm100 through a Sony 777ES set to 480i
> 
> 
> Any ideas anyone?



Well, I have a D2 and a Ruby, and have NO contrast issues. Just a spectacular picture!


First of all, I'm not sure what you mean when you refer to "the THX contrast test." Is this something on a DVD? If so, you don't need to use it, in fact you should not use it as you'll end up calibrating to a specific device (with it's specific weaknesses). The THX video and audio "tests" are really only useful if you have no other source for test patterns.


The D2 has a great set of test patterns that are at better resolution than a DVD. If you are using HDMI from D2 to Ruby, then you are getting them at 1080p/60. (By the way, the built-in audio test signals are extremely useful too.)


The fundamental principle you need to understand is that you first set your projector via the D2's built-in test patterns, and only THEN do you tweak each input (DVD, Tivo, cable, HD-DVD etc). Important - once you tweak the projector, you don't touch it, as it should be fine.


How to do the first step is covered in both the Anthem manual under test patterns (?) and also covered much more clearly by our own Bob Pariseau here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9277613 


Basically you display the patterns and adjust your Ruby contrast/brightness/color/tint settings until the patterns all look good (follow Bob's instructions!) - and then you go and tweak each device to eliminate it's specific issues.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino* /forum/post/11639055
> 
> 
> Well... this one is killing me.. I ran the THX contrast test and the first thing I notice.. The very first test pattern fails miserably. What I should see are various shades of white/gray, instead I get one solid shade. I'm not able to distinguish the 8 different shades . The D2 is connected to my Sony VW100. However, if I bypass the D2 contrast seems good. I run the same test on my Pioneer Elite plasma, test patterns looks correct (D2 not running to the Plasma).
> 
> 
> Ruby video settings are set to 50%. Video source is an Esient DMDm100 through a Sony 777ES set to 480i
> 
> 
> Any ideas anyone?



Tony, I forget where you are in calibrating things so I don't know what you've already done.


If you haven't done so already, read the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post in this thread.


The key to working with the D2 is to get the OUTPUT side of the D2 working properly with your display. THEN do any refinement you need to do for each input source.


You set up the D2 output using the D2's internally generated test patterns (Video Source Adjust / Patterns -- no video needed from any source) and the level controls on your display (the Ruby in your case).


After that you refine the input levels for each source device using the input controls of the D2 (Video Source Adjust / Picture for each input in turn). The level controls on your Ruby would be left unchanged during this step.


Obviously you are suffering some severe black crush or black clipping in your current setup. So read that post, follow the steps it suggests, and see if that helps.


By the way, although the THX "optimizer" charts are readily at hand, you should be aware that setting up your video with those will not be as accurate as using a true video calibration DVD such as Avia or Digital Video Essentials (DVE).

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino* /forum/post/11639055
> 
> 
> Well... this one is killing me.. I ran the THX contrast test and the first thing I notice.. The very first test pattern fails miserably. What I should see are various shades of white/gray, instead I get one solid shade. I'm not able to distinguish the 8 different shades . The D2 is connected to my Sony VW100. However, if I bypass the D2 contrast seems good. I run the same test on my Pioneer Elite plasma, test patterns looks correct (D2 not running to the Plasma).
> 
> 
> Ruby video settings are set to 50%. Video source is an Esient DMDm100 through a Sony 777ES set to 480i
> 
> 
> Any ideas anyone?



I too have the same equipment chain with the Escient SE D1 and the Sony 777ES BUT I could never get the 480i over component to work so I changed the switch on the back of the Sony to progressive and although I now get the menus correctly I still can't get a decent picture (colours are all wrong and the definition is waaaay soft). I have chalked the poor result to the D2 Ver 1.10 software I am running.


What ver is your D2?


What ver is your Escient box?


Have you changed your Sony 777ES software ver?


I should note that I also have the OPPO 970 (480i over HDMI) and it works flawlessly with the D2, including the THX contrast test.


I also have the Toshiba Xa2 and the SD THX contrast test is flawless as well. This is HDMI upsampled to 1080P/60.


I am very interested in any responses to your question as it may well help me to repair a long standing problem with the escient Sony 777ES combination that has never worked from day one!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/11639393
> 
> 
> I dropped the D2 off at my dealer in Denver on 9/5. UPS shipping claims it reached its destination in Buffalo N.Y. on 9/11. I have to assume that it needs to go thru customs from there. As of Friday Anthem still hadn't let me know if it was there or not.
> 
> I can only hope it appears on the other side of the custom's wormhole and in the parallel world we here know as Canada in the not too distant future.
> 
> But if it shows up at Anthem on Monday, that will already have been 2 weeks, and it still has to be repaired or replaced, and then make the return journey.
> 
> I will be surprised if it takes less than 5-6 weeks total. TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE FOR A PRODUCT THAT COSTS THIS MUCH!
> 
> I'm seriously considering trading down to a D1 to avoid future video meltdowns in the D2 and the excessive related downtime.
> 
> Tom



Tom, as a point of reference, Anthem had been quoting 5 weeks turnaround for US customers for the D1 to D1-HD upgrade, of which only 1 week was actually time in the factory. The rest was shipping and customs delays both ways.


They've recently changed that and are now quoting 3-4 weeks for the upgrade.


Short of setting up a suitable repair operation in the US, there's not really a lot they can do about customs delays and the 4 shipping steps (into customs, from customs to them, back from the factory to customs, and finally from customs to you).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/11639552
> 
> 
> I too have the same equipment chain with the Escient SE D1 and the Sony 777ES BUT I could never get the 480i over component to work so I changed the switch on the back of the Sony to progressive and although I now get the menus correctly I still can't get a decent picture (colours are all wrong and the definition is waaaay soft). I have chalked the poor result to the D2 Ver 1.10 software I am running.
> 
> 
> What ver is your D2?
> 
> 
> What ver is your Escient box?
> 
> 
> Have you changed your Sony 777ES software ver?
> 
> 
> I should note that I also have the OPPO 970 (480i over HDMI) and it works flawlessly with the D2, including the THX contrast test.
> 
> 
> I also have the Toshiba Xa2 and the SD THX contrast test is flawless as well. This is HDMI upsampled to 1080P/60.
> 
> 
> I am very interested in any responses to your question as it may well help me to repair a long standing problem with the escient Sony 777ES combination that has never worked from day one!



Software older than V1.11g will have the Component 480i input bug, although not everyone seems to be affected by it. The symptom is an image that looks like it is having de-interlacing problems. Also the Video Source Adjust / Info display will show something like 1440x480i for the input video instead of the correct 720x480i.


However, I don't believe we've had any reports of black crush or faulty colors from folks with the older software who are suffering from that bug.


And that bug does not exist, even in the old software, when the input is switched to Component 480p. So if you are still seeing problems after confirming that the Anthem is receiving Component 720x480p as input, then it is some other issue.


If the Anthems have a problem specific to this Sony unit, Anthem tech support may know about it by now.


==================================


EDITED TO ADD: The Video Source Adjust / Picture / Video ADC menu contains adjustments that may help with Component video input sources that are sending out a strange signal which is confusing the Anthem's video digitizer. Anthem tech support would probably be your best source of help on using those controls. Since I don't know what's going on with the input from this particular Sony device, I'm not sure these controls will help. See Section 4.11 "PICTURE" of the Anthem manual.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/11638450
> 
> 
> Tim, I can't disagree with the sentiments expressed here but I believe this is the wrong thread for your discussion. This is supposed to be the "Tweaking " thread for the D2 or AVM 50. The fact that we have had so many challenges with basic configuration has prevented us from engaging in significant progress on calibration. This is for owners of the D2/AVM who are trying to optimize the performance of their investment not evaluate it against other brands.....there are other threads for that.



I do agree overall with you point here - one of the most valuable things about this thread is that it is EXTREMELY USEFUL information that isn't cluttered with lots of off-topic discussion. It's mostly people helping other people get the most from their Anthem pre-pro purchase.


At the same time, I want to say I agree with a lot that Tim has to say. The D2/AVM50 has some clear issues big and small. And helping people get the most from ther purchase can often mean educating them to certain limitations.


I would suggest that a good approach would be to consider the discussion of issues with Anthem this way - if an issue has a workaround/fix, then it belongs in a tweaking thread. If (for example) it was a discussion of 7+ channel discrete sources, which we believe to be a hardware limitation, then there's no point in dragging it out *in this thread* because there will not be a solution that people can actually use.


I'd love to see the useful information ratio in this thread remain high.


----------



## nine ball

Thanks and yes a very good distinction/suggestion.


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Personally, I've got no problem with posts in this thread discussing how Anthem could improve the D2 and AVM-50 -- either via upgrade or in a future unit.


And in particular, I think it is very important that we are honest about any warts we find on these units. This needn't be an exercise in bashing. The Anthem units, by design, have certain limitations which may not be obvious to new purchasers. Discussing those, and why they may or may not actually be important depending upon what you are trying to do, is useful and valuable.

--Bob


----------



## adidino

That link didn't work.. can you repost it?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Odd. The link found in the collection of links in the first post in this thread just worked for me. In any event here it is again:

D2 and AVM/50 Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs 


--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11639618
> 
> 
> Software older than V1.11g will have the Component 480i input bug, although not everyone seems to be affected by it. The symptom is an image that looks like it is having de-interlacing problems. Also the Video Source Adjust / Info display will show something like 1440x480i for the input video instead of the correct 720x480i.
> 
> 
> However, I don't believe we've had any reports of black crush or faulty colors from folks with the older software who are suffering from that bug.
> 
> 
> And that bug does not exist, even in the old software, when the input is switched to Component 480p. So if you are still seeing problems after confirming that the Anthem is receiving Component 720x480p as input, then it is some other issue.
> 
> 
> If the Anthems have a problem specific to this Sony unit, Anthem tech support may know about it by now.
> 
> 
> ==================================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: The Video Source Adjust / Picture / Video ADC menu contains adjustments that may help with Component video input sources that are sending out a strange signal which is confusing the Anthem's video digitizer. Anthem tech support would probably be your best source of help on using those controls. Since I don't know what's going on with the input from this particular Sony device, I'm not sure these controls will help. See Section 4.11 "PICTURE" of the Anthem manual.
> 
> --Bob



I confirmed the input is correct at 720 x 480p component. The colours are very faded and have a greenish tinge with an absence of red.


The one step I would like to perform would be to recheck my cabling which is NOT trivial (45 minutes at best just to get at it!!!!) but I would like to make sure that at least this element is not part of the problem before I talk to the boys at Anthem.


Thanks Bob, I will also review the suggested reading in the manual.


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/11640006
> 
> 
> I confirmed the input is correct at 720 x 480p component. The colours are very faded and have a greenish tinge with an absence of red.
> 
> 
> The one step I would like to perform would be to recheck my cabling which is NOT trivial (45 minutes at best just to get at it!!!!) but I would like to make sure that at least this element is not part of the problem before I talk to the boys at Anthem.
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I will also review the suggested reading in the manual.
> 
> 
> Peter



Peter, also check whether this Sony player has any menu setting or back panel switch that controls the style of Component output (RGB vs. YPbPr). Ghastly green imaging is often a symptom of a unit sending RGB when the receiving end is expecting YPbPr. While you are checking cables, also make sure they are plugged into the right jacks at both ends and that you haven't swapped a cable around.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball

great minds think alike.......my thought or fear, exactly.


Peter


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/11638450
> 
> 
> Tim, I can't disagree with the sentiments expressed here but I believe this is the wrong thread for your discussion. This is supposed to be the "Tweaking " thread for the D2 or AVM 50. The fact that we have had so many challenges with basic configuration has prevented us from engaging in significant progress on calibration. This is for owners of the D2/AVM who are trying to optimize the performance of their investment not evaluate it against other brands.....there are other threads for that.
> 
> ...
> 
> I hope I have provided a catalyst for the "club" to rally around that Anthem might respect and acknowledge.
> 
> 
> Peter



Peter,


I guess I don't understand what is objectionable. The question addressed 7-channel audio, and while I may have been decidedly direct about the post processing "tweak" being insufficient when expectations are for processing to be off the receiver in the players, post-processing is the only available work around. I thought I was pretty specific in the note, particularly to NOT cause such a reaction "NOTE: I take this thread as a place to help folks and give honest feedback."


We can be a club of fan boys trying to "sell Anthem" to any AVS member that comes here, making us happier in our purchases in try to make non-believers less happy, but we should be the hardest not the happiest customers, as the primary mechanism of product improvement. It is a hollow "victory" to get someone of limited means to join the club, if in balance he would get 95% of the capability and still afford a good projector and food on the table with a competitive unit.


That said, if you had only tweak threads here, the post out would be cut by 75%. 50% of the 75% is the tireless efforts of folks like Bob walking people through correct trouble shooting vs guessing, often answering the same question for the 100th time, he will be sainted any day now. The other 25% of the 75% is about delays, turnaround, etc. The trampolining smileys take up an inordinate part of the thread.


Given that my griping is a very small proportionately to bouncing post icons, and it is intended to be constructive ultimately, I think a little diversity in the thread is OK....


----------



## slots1

Tim,

Let me know when I can vote for Bob to be sainted, I agree. I think he never sleeps, just answers all our questions. I thank him again.


Still waiting for my tweeks on my D2 by my sales person and the ISF guy. Early next month.

Gerry


----------



## thebland

I'm not even an Anthem owner but Bob is a great poster here who is extremely detailed and knowledgeable with his posts...A true asset to you guys.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11641919
> 
> 
> Given that my griping is a very small proportionately to bouncing post icons, and it is intended to be constructive ultimately, I think a little diversity in the thread is OK....



Agree. Nothing here is perfect and nothing here is forever, not even this thread or the D2/AVM50.


----------



## adidino




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/11643968
> 
> 
> I'm not even an Anthem owner but Bob is a great poster here who is extremely detailed and knowledgeable with his posts...A true asset to you guys.



Agreed! Top notch guy..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We here at "Bob Pariseau" thank you for your kind words!


(grin!)


--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11644152
> 
> 
> We here at "Bob Pariseau" thank you for your kind words!
> 
> 
> (grin!)
> 
> 
> --Bob



And Mascots


----------



## adidino

Bob Pariseau Motors... has a nice ring to it.. lol!


----------



## LEVESQUE

Rudolpht.


Don't forget, that just like the Lexicon MC-12HD, the Anthem platform is starting to get old a bit, so true LPCM 7.1 is not possible. Just like the Lexicon MC-12HD and the Halcro pre/pros. We don't even know if the Halcro update coming soon will make it possible. The Halcro will get both a HARDWARE and firmware upgrade, since it was doing 2 ch LPCM only since it came out...


----------



## Audio_Geek_00




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11611137
> 
> 
> DTS-HD MA is made up of a "core" (lossy) audio track and extensions that add back in the parts that would otherwise be lost. It is done that way quite deliberately so that the "core" track is easy to extract -- essentially no processing is involved.
> 
> 
> Traditional, lossy, DTS bitstreams come in a high and low bit rate form. The low bit rate form has about 1/2 the bandwidth of the high bit rate form. Early DTS tracks on standard DVDs were almost always the high bit rate form as DTS was trying to carve out its competitive position. DTS tracks on many standard DVDs today, however, are the low bit rate form.
> 
> 
> The "core" track subset of a DTS-HD MA track is a high bit rate, lossy, traditional DTS bitstream.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The raw PCM track found on many Blu-Ray discs is an uncompressed copy of the studio mix for the movie at a given bandwidth -- usually 48KHz. Since it has never been encoded, it is, by definition, a lossless track.
> 
> 
> The result of fully decoding a DTS-HD MA track is a PCM track. The reductioin in size and bit rate resulting from the packing (encoding) of that track into DTS-HD MA means the studios have THE OPTION of using a higher quality PCM track as the source mix -- higher than 48KHz -- while still staying within the capacity and reading-the-disc bit rate limitations of the Blu-Ray disc format.
> 
> 
> However, as of today, essentially nobody is taking advantage of that yet.
> 
> 
> That is, the PCM which has been used as the source for the DTS-HD MA track is, quite likely, *ALSO* that same 48KHz mix. Which means the raw PCM track is identical to what would come out of fully decoding the DTS-HD MA track!
> 
> 
> This may change over time, but right now, that's what most studios are doing. By the way, the PCM mix used as the source for the lossless Dolby TrueHD tracks is also, almost always, a 48KHz mix. As with DTS-HD MA, studios have THE OPTION of using a higher quality PCM mix as the source for their TrueHD tracks, but right now they don't.
> 
> 
> [Note: There is a strangeness in the Toshiba HD-DVD players where a setting intended for the SPDIF output can cause the HDMI PCM output to upsample the 48KHz PCM to 96KHz -- and quite poorly by all accounts. If your Toshiba is sending out 96KHz from a 48KHz track you should make it stop doing that.]
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> However, when you tell the player to send a bitstream version of the DTS-HD MA track over an SPDIF output or over HDMI V1.1 all you will get is the "core" or "compatibility" track. Again that is a LOSSY subset of the DTS-HD MA track -- essentially at the quality level of standard DVD DTS tracks.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Thanks for the contribution. I recently read an article by Thomas J. Norton in the latest Ultimate AV about high resolution music and movie soundtracks and taking advantage (or not as the article points out) of the the latest HDMI version 1.3 ability to convert high bitstream data to PCM at the pre-pro. Here's a link to the article.
http://www.guidetohometheater.com/features/807hdmi13/ 

It would seem that based on his observations it's not possible as of yet. Which begs the question, will Anthem ever offer an upgrade to the D2 and AVM 50 to a later version of HDMI to eventually take advantage of this processing power? Its more a hypthetical question, but it would be nice to get the True HD and DTS-HD MA in its full glory if there is music or movies that have it.


Audio_Geek_00


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2 and AVM-50 can not be upgraded to HDMI V1.3 without a hardware change. The best information we have is that Anthem is not working on this yet. I don't expect any such change any time soon from them.


Please note that the D2 and AVM-50 can ALREADY TODAY handle Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA as well as can be done within the limits of the D2/AVM50's 5.1 channel audio input path for HDMI PCM -- provided the decoder for the lossless packing format is in the player.


Players with TrueHD decoders exist today and people are enjoying TrueHD in all its glory right now with the D2 and AVM-50. If the studios go to a higher bandwidth PCM as input to their TrueHD encoding process, that will STILL work with the D2 and AVM-50


The upcoming Denon Blu-Ray player will apparently be the first player with a built-in DTS-HD MA decoder, and that TOO will work with the D2 and AVM-50 without requiring any change in them -- even if the studios go to higher bandwidth PCM.


Adding HDMI V1.3 and a lossless format decoder inside the D2 or AVM-50 would not make the audio any better than what can be done within the current D2/AVM50 design when using such players.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht

Interesting insight into how the Pio BDP-95FD can pass but not process DTS-HD Master from Chris at Pio. My preference would be to keep the decoding in the player and passing PCM. Lets hope these discs also have PCM tracks which blunt the decoding need. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=3821


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino* /forum/post/11639055
> 
> 
> Well... this one is killing me.. I ran the THX contrast test and the first thing I notice.. The very first test pattern fails miserably. What I should see are various shades of white/gray, instead I get one solid shade. I'm not able to distinguish the 8 different shades . The D2 is connected to my Sony VW100. However, if I bypass the D2 contrast seems good. I run the same test on my Pioneer Elite plasma, test patterns looks correct (D2 not running to the Plasma).
> 
> 
> Ruby video settings are set to 50%. Video source is an Esient DMDm100 through a Sony 777ES set to 480i
> 
> 
> Any ideas anyone?



I received the following PM from ADIDINO regarding this problem. Since we had one other poster here having similar sounding problems with the same Sony player, and since ADIDINO said it was OK for me to pass on this info, I'm going to quote it here for the record in this thread.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidino* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So it looks like I found my answer after some reading and tweeking..
> 
> 
> In the video settings, there is a setting under Video ADC called "Video Input Gain" I set it to 24 (or within 20-24) and the contrast is perfect. The manual claims the default is AUTO but it was set to 0 by default. Interesting setting as it is specific to component and svideo sources with respect to white areas of the image.
> 
> 
> There is also an "Input Offset" adjust specific to dark areas. Again, minor adjust in this setting made a huge difference.
> 
> 
> Feel free to pass along if you think it should be.
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for your help! I feel better about my D2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tony



The settings Tony is talking about are in the Video Source Adjust / Picture / Video ADC menu. "Video ADC" stands for Video Analog to Digital Converter. The settings are designed to adjust the signal levels for S-video or Component video sources whose analog video levels are confusing the Anthem's video digitizer.


Thanks to Tony for passing on this useful news!


---------------------------------------------------------------------


TECHNICAL NOTE: Not all analog video signals are created equal. The differences from source device to source device are historical and are also related to market differences in various parts of the world. Older and cheaper sources are more likely to be putting out screwy signals as are source devices that were designed to be sold in a different country.


For example, some analog video signals present all the information content as positive voltages. Thus it is easy (read inexpensive) for the circuit receiving that video to strip out the sync signals which are presented as negative voltages. The trick with doing it this way is that you have to define some positive voltage as representing "Black" so that there is gap between Black and a zero voltage signal which can be used to hold the so called "Blacker Than Black" content.


Other analog video signals represent Black as zero volts, Blacker than Black as small negative voltages, and the sync signals as larger negative voltages.


There are similar sorts of things going on at the other end of the signal where White is represented.


The Anthem apparently does a pretty good job sorting this all out automatically for different S-Video and Component video sources, but if there is a problem with some analog video source, the adjustments in this Video ADC menu can be a lifesaver. The Anthem manual has a brief description of what these controls do. As with all settings in the Video Source Adjust menu, these controls are remembered on a per-input basis.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11652264
> 
> 
> The D2 and AVM-50 can not be upgraded to HDMI V1.3 without a hardware change. The best information we have is that Anthem is not working on this yet. I don't expect any such change any time soon from them.
> 
> 
> Please note that the D2 and AVM-50 can ALREADY TODAY handle Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA as well as can be done within the limits of the D2/AVM50's 5.1 channel audio input path for HDMI PCM -- provided the decoder for the lossless packing format is in the player.
> 
> 
> Players with TrueHD decoders exist today and people are enjoying TrueHD in all its glory right now withe D2 and AVM-50. If the studios go to a higher bandwidth PCM as input to their TrueHD encoding process, that will STILL work with the D2 and AVM-50
> 
> 
> The upcoming Denon Blu-Ray player will apparently be the first player with a built-in DTS-HD MA decoder, and that TOO will work with the D2 and AVM-50 without requiring any change in them -- even if the studios go to higher bandwidth PCM.
> 
> 
> Adding HDMI V1.3 and a lossless format decoder inside the D2 or AVM-50 would not make the audio any better than what can be done within the current D2/AVM50 design when using such players.
> 
> --Bob



Well said as usual Bob.


Audiogeek: I am one of those folks enjoying TrueHD at least in all its glory with the D2 and the Pioneer 94HD BluRay. It is really spectacular, despite the fact that content is rather slim at this point - I find myself listening to the Legends of Jazz TrueHD disc, and some others, WAY too much  I can't wait until more and more concert BluRay discs are released. The D2 is not the limiting factor here, won't be for some time.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11652390
> 
> 
> Interesting insight into how the Pio BDP-95FD can pass but not process DTS-HD Master from Chris at Pio. My preference would be to keep the decoding in the player and passing PCM. Lets hope these discs also have PCM tracks which blunt the decoding need. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=3821



Yeah, it appears that DTS really pulled the rug out from under some of the early player maker's designs.


It will be interesting to see how the major player makers handle this. The transition to Blu-Ray player profile 1.1 is upon them. So far I believe Denon has announced the only profile 1.1 compliant players (due to ship next month).

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11652427
> 
> 
> Yeah, it appears that DTS really pulled the rug out from under some of the early player maker's designs.
> 
> 
> It will be interesting to see how the major player makers handle this. The transition to Blu-Ray player profile 1.1 is upon them. So far I believe Denon has annouced the only profile 1.1 compliant players (due to ship next month).
> 
> --Bob



Yeah, that Denon player could be really nice, especially with 1.1 support, and DTS HD MA decoding...hmmmmmm


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I suspect there will be less expensive alternatives to the Denon that will be a better fit when paired with the Anthem stuff.


What I can't tell yet is whether any other of the majors are going to try to slip profile 1.1 player announcements in between now and Christmas. All Blu-Ray players launched (announced) after October HAVE TO BE at least profile 1.1 according to the latest dictum from the Blu-Ray consortium. But it is awfully tough to make an announcement later than September and still get product in the channels for the Christmas season. So they may just wait until after Christmas.


If Denon hits its October ship date, they may be the only game in town for a full quarter. And thus they get the premium price.


I'm actually quite disappointed that Pioneer did not announce a profile 1.1 Blu-Ray player with built-in DTS-HD MA decoding at CEDIA.


Also please be aware that the marketing guys are at it again! Some players are likely going to be marketed as having DTS-HD MA decoding. But if you read the fine print, you will discover they only ACTUALLY decode the "core" subset of the DTS-HD MA track. I.e., they've extracted the "core" bitstream, which is a lossy DTS track, and fed it into their built-in LOSSY DTS decoder. Fake decoding, misleadingly labeled.


Caveat Emptor!

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders

Reading everything in these last few posts... I'm just thinking about my soon to arrive D2 and what my plans will be for future DVD formats. Since the D2 won't decode bitstreams, we are limited to 5.1 Analog input and whatever is decoded in he player. But, since the D2 only has a single 5.1 analog input, I must choose either BD, HD-DVD or go with a combo player. It seems the upcoming Samsung is probably the only option to go with to have most lossless audio player decoding and remaining format neutral.


I plan on buying a new player for Christmas. Cost of players is not an issue. Inputs on the D2 and format support of the players is. So, what is one to do?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11652586
> 
> 
> Reading everything in these last few posts... I'm just thinking about my soon to arrive D2 and what my plans will be for future DVD formats. Since the D2 won't decode bitstreams, we are limited to 5.1 Analog input and whatever is decoded in he player. But, since the D2 only has a single 5.1 analog input, I must choose either BD, HD-DVD or go with a combo player. It seems the upcoming Samsung is probably the only option to go with to have most lossless audio player decoding and remaining format neutral.
> 
> 
> I plan on buying a new player for Christmas. Cost of players is not an issue. Inputs on the D2 and format support of the players is. So, what is one to do?



Tim, I don't think you've quite twigged how this works yet.


The only way the player can present a lossless track to it's 5.1 Analog outputs is if the player HAS A BUILT IN DECODER for that style of lossless track. The packed lossless format is decoded into individual digital audio streams (PCM) for each speaker channel, and the PCM is then converted to analog for output.


But if the player HAS such a decoder, then it will ALSO be able to just send that PCM over HDMI to the Anthem.


So anything you might think of doing via 5.1 Analog from an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player will also be available via 5.1 HDMI PCM from that player. And the Anthem will do the rest.


The HDMI PCM connection is the way to go.


----------------------------------------------------------


If the player does NOT have a decoder for a particular lossless track, then the only thing it can send over the 5.1 Analog connection will be the "core" or "compatibility" lossy subset of that track. And it can send that to the Anthem via HDMI as well.


So all you are missing out on is players (without decoders) that can send a lossless bitstream to an AVR with decoders. That won't work with the Anthem stuff.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders

OK! Do you ever get tired of hearing "Thanks, Bob!" ?










You're right. I did not *NOT* understand that 5.1 HDMI PCM == 5.1 Analog when the player has the decoder and can send the PCM signal.


So, it is not a problem to have separate dedicated BD and HD-DVD players, each connected only via HDMI to the D2, each set to send decoded PCM over HDMI to the D2 and get full audio resolution of whatever audio formats the player can decode.


The D2 cannot handle lossless bitstream formats and if we ever see 7.1 discs, we'll be limited to the 5.1 soundtracks, but, we can enjoy full decoded lossless formats now. (As you've been saying for"ever").


OK. I think I get it. Now I have to start over in my qwest in looking at BD/HD-DVD players. Of course, the Samsung combo is still not out of the question. The specs look good. But, it's a Samsung. Just doesn't quite feel right connecting a Samsung to the D2.










I've got my Pioneer Elite DV-79av I'll be using, connected via HDMI outputting 480i to the D2 until I make the plunge to BD/HD. I'll probably keep the Pio player for standard DVDs even after I get BD/HD player.


So much to learn. So little time. I have to learn it all now so I can enjoy my D2 when it gets here.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By George he's got it!


(grin!)


Do cast a sharp eye over the specs of the new Samsung player as they come out. I believe it may be one of the ones that only does "fake" DTS-HD MA decoding.


Also be aware that what few 7.1 tracks there are are being mixed in full knowledge that they are being sold into a world that is, in many cases, using only 5.1 speaker setups.


I'm still awaiting some good analysis of how 5.1 input raised to 7.1 speaker output by a quality audio processor such as the Anthem compares to 7.1 input passed through to 7.1 speakers. With the exception of the VERY aggressive surround tracks found in games, I suspect there will not be much real world difference. But this is largely an unknown right now.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders

I expect you are right with the 5.1 raised to a 7.1 system vs. 7.1 discrete inputs. I've had my 7.1 system for ages. Couldn't image "only" having 5.1 again.







Of course, it's not discrete, but, it doesn't matter. It sounds amazing. Can only imaging how much better it will be with the D2.


Yes, I will watch carefully what comes out about the Samsung. It might be "the one", but there are too many unknowns, and with DTS-HD MA "in the future", it's going to be hard to nail them down on how it's going to be implemented and then hold them to it.


But, now with a full understanding of HDMI PCM, I'm no longer limited to a combo player. So, I'm back to trolling the dedicated BD and HD forums to see what's out there now and what on the horizon. Seems in the BD camp, the PS3 gets high praise. DTS-HD MA is not there now, but many people keep hoping. Now I'm looking for what audio formats it does support and can send out decoded PCM over HDMI.







This is so much fun!


----------



## Tim Winders

2 questions -


1. What specs should I be looking at/for in re: decoding of audio formats to determine if it's done "correctly" in the player, or if it's "fake"?


2. The D2 only has a single HDMI output. Is there anyway to connect a 2nd HDMI display. Discussing with the wife, she'd like to be able to connect both our projector (HC 1080) and Plasma (HP 42") to all the equipment. I've read through the D2 manuals (online) and see that the Zone2 component output could be used. I can output 1080p60 to the display, but, any HDCP/HDMI inputs would be forced to 480p output to the Zone2 component. Honestly, for *that* display and what it will be used for, it might not matter. Just thinking if there was a different way. Also need to consider audio for that display. As it's in a different room, don't know what we'll do. Perhaps an inexpensive receiver, maybe just use the internal display speakers at first. The idea is to be able to connect to all the source components and not have to "duplicate" much of it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11653067
> 
> 
> 2 questions -
> 
> 
> 1. What specs should I be looking at/for in re: decoding of audio formats to determine if it's done "correctly" in the player, or if it's "fake"?
> 
> 
> 2. The D2 only has a single HDMI output. Is there anyway to connect a 2nd HDMI display. Discussing with the wife, she'd like to be able to connect both our projector (HC 1080) and Plasma (HP 42") to all the equipment. I've read through the D2 manuals (online) and see that the Zone2 component output could be used. I can output 1080p60 to the display, but, any HDCP/HDMI inputs would be forced to 480p output to the Zone2 component. Honestly, for *that* display and what it will be used for, it might not matter. Just thinking if there was a different way. Also need to consider audio for that display. As it's in a different room, don't know what we'll do. Perhaps an inexpensive receiver, maybe just use the internal display speakers at first. The idea is to be able to connect to all the source components and not have to "duplicate" much of it.



1) I don't think you need worry about TrueHD. I think everyone is doing that OK. For DTS-HD MA it is not yet clear how the manufacturers will disclose what they are doing. Look for fine print that says DTS-HD MA decoding is "core". That would be bad.


2) If an HDMI input source is copy protected -- which means just about everything -- the processed Component outputs of the Anthem will be turned off. I.e., it won't come out at all, rather than coming out at 480p. So if you are using Zone 2 Component outputs it is wise to have Component cables connected from your sources as well. Then you can do unprocessed pass-through of Component in to Zone 2 out as a fall back.


We've had a few posters here who have had luck using an HDMI 1 input 2 output adapter between the D2 and 2 TVs. But I forget the details as to which such products seem to work.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders

1. OK. Since DTS-HD MA is a big mystery, I don't have to worry about that immediately, but will look for exactly how it's handled in the future. Very helpful.


2. Some type of HDMI "splitter" may work. Kinda scarry at 1080p.







Well, nothing is in stone yet, just flushing out some possible ideas. Having the fallback to component sounds like a good plan if we do go that way.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

I think we would all agree that the OPPO is a great match to the D2 - 480I through HDMI - in terms of value... a good source taking advantage of all of the D2 processing.


Do we have such a perfect match between the D2 and say a 50 inch flat panel display? Which Plasma or LCD would bethe perfect partner with the D2 in terms of value? The display that has everything it needs and takes advantage of the DSP power of the D2 to display the best picture posssible without waisting the processing power ($$) of the display.


Panasonic?

Sony?

Pioneer?

Samsung


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've been keeping an eye on Pioneer's new 1080p 50" plasma models, but I haven't done any detailed study yet. They are now out in both "normal" and "Elite" flavor. I believe they MAY do both 1080p/60 and 1080p/24 input well, and they are reputed to have largely fixed, if not completely solved, Pioneer's problem with producing a decently black "Black".


However, if you are in no rush to purchase, you may want to wait to see if quality displays capable of /120Hz refresh rate hit the market next year as expected. The idea is that a well engineered display of that type will be able to take both film and video rate content and display both of them without having to change refresh rate since 120 is an even multiple of both 24 and 30.


-------------------------------------


Note that even that style of TV would have difficulty with video content overlayed (PIP style) on film content *UNLESS* the player raises both to /120Hz internally prior to mixing them and outputs it that way after the mix (i.e., as /120Hz video). And that won't work through the Anthem. /120Hz video stream support is an optional feature of HDMI V1.3 or higher which means the D2 and AVM-50 can't play. Note that this is different from sending /24 or /60 to a display which then raises either of them INTERNALLY to a /120 refresh rate. And also note that there is only an issue if the two types of content are supposed to be mixed into the same picture.


The Anthem would receive such mixed stuff likely as either /24 or /60 which means one of the two picture elements would still have some judder while the other would be judder free.

--Bob


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/11659473
> 
> 
> I think we would all agree that the OPPO is a great match to the D2 - 480I through HDMI - in terms of value... a good source taking advantage of all of the D2 processing.
> 
> 
> Do we have such a perfect match between the D2 and say a 50 inch flat panel display? Which Plasma or LCD would bethe perfect partner with the D2 in terms of value? The display that has everything it needs and takes advantage of the DSP power of the D2 to display the best picture posssible without waisting the processing power ($$) of the display.
> 
> 
> Panasonic?
> 
> Sony?
> 
> Pioneer?
> 
> Samsung



I would have to vote for the 720p 10UK Panasonics is the best value. You are not paying for a great scaler in the Panny and then not using it, and you get the great blacks. I think most people sit far enough away from their 50 inch - I sit about 11 feet away, that they can't see the improvement 1080p gives you.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11659642
> 
> 
> I've been keeping an eye on Pioneer's new 1080p 50" plasma models, but I haven't done any detailed study yet. They are now out in both "normal" and "Elite" flavor. I believe they MAY do both 1080p/60 and 1080p/24 input well, and they are reputed to have largely fixed, if not completely solved, Pioneer's problem with producing a decently black "Black".
> 
> 
> However, if you are in no rush to purchase, you may want to wait to see if quality displays capable of /120Hz refresh rate hit the market next year as expected. The idea is that a well engineered display of that type will be able to take both film and video rate content and display both of them without having to change refresh rate since 120 is an even multiple of both 24 and 30.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Note that even that style of TV would have difficulty with video content ovelayed (PIP style) on film content *UNLESS* the player raises both to /120Hz internally prior to mixing them and outputs it that way after the mix (i.e., as /120Hz video). And that won't work through the Anthem. /120Hz video stream support is an optional feature of HDMI V1.3 or higher which means the D2 and AVM-50 can't play. Note that this is different from sending /24 or /60 to a display which then raises either of them INTERNALLY to a /120 refresh rate. And also note that there is only an issue if the two types of content are supposed to be mixed into the same picture.
> 
> 
> The Anthem would receive such mixed stuff likely as either /24 or /60 which means one of the two picture elements would still have some judder while the other would be judder free.
> 
> --Bob






I have also been "watching" the pioneer models and have been wondering if I need the "elite" version when matched up with the D2? Perhaps the D2 paired with pioneer's standard kuru will look just as good as with the elite version?


Samsung and sony currently have 120hz displays out do they not. I think sony's is their xbr4 and xbr5? If so, is that the way to go?


If I understand correctly, the D2 will still need to output the signal at 24 or 60and then sony or samsung would then convert the signal to /120 correct? The D2 is not capable of outputting /120 right now right?


Anyway, I guess the important informaiton is what is the most important technology to look for in a diplay when the DSP is being done primarily by the D2. Black level, contrast ration, latest generation of glass, refresh rates, 1080p etc.


Without thinking about it too much it might seem that in the case of the pioneer you might be paying an extra $2000 for the elite for the extra processing power which would be a waist (not utilized) when paired with the D2... so you might as well just get the "standard" version... or not?


-b


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/11659770
> 
> 
> I would have to vote for the 720p 10UK Panasonics is the best value. You are not paying for a great scaler in the Panny and then not using it, and you get the great blacks. I think most people sit far enough away from their 50 inch - I sit about 11 feet away, that they can't see the improvement 1080p gives you.



The thing that I think people overlook in this is that "fewer" processing steps are almost always better.


If all interesting content is going to 1080p, then a native 1080p display is an advantage simply because there's at least one scaling step that doesn't have to happen. The assumption is that scaling artifacts might be more noticeable at normal watching distance than fine detail resolveable at 1080p but not at 720p.


Now 1080p displays are still premium priced at the moment. But I fully expect their prices to plummet after Christmas. And I do mean plummet.


------------------------------------------------


The issue of paying for a scaler in your TV is an important one of course. But keep in mind that there's a fair bit of sophisticated processing the TV *ALWAYS* has to do. For example, the phosphors in a plasma don't blaze up and fade away at the same rate for the three colors. So the TV has to adjust timing a bit. And the TV has the most important part of the job of making sure that it faithfully reproduces the input signal -- things like basic level setting and Gamma Correction. The smarts to do that may be more of the cost than the de-interlacing or scaling solution found in the TV. And cutting corners in that stuff will damage the image in ways the Anthem can't fix.


I'd be more worried about paying for things like an SD or HD TV tuner, or an audio solution inside the TV. I.e., your best bet is to get a "monitor" design that just handles the video fed from the Anthem, rather than a conventional "TV" design.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/11659869
> 
> 
> I have also been "watching" the pioneer models and have been wondering if I need the "elite" version when matched up with the D2? Perhaps the D2 paired with pioneer's standard kuru will look just as good as with the elite version?
> 
> 
> Samsung and sony currently have 120hz displays out do they not. I think sony's is their xbr4 and xbr5? If so, is that the way to go?
> 
> 
> If I understand correctly, the D2 will still need to output the signal at 24 or 60and then sony or samsung would then convert the signal to /120 correct? The D2 is not capable of outputting /120 right now right?
> 
> 
> Anyway, I guess the important informaiton is what is the most important technology to look for in a diplay when the DSP is being done primarily by the D2. Black level, contrast ration, latest generation of glass, refresh rates, 1080p etc.
> 
> 
> Without thinking about it too much it might seem that in the case of the pioneer you might be paying an extra $2000 for the elite for the extra processing power which would be a waist (not utilized) when paired with the D2... so you might as well just get the "standard" version... or not?
> 
> 
> -b



The Elite models offer a more sophisticated set of setup controls that can be used by a trained video calibration tech (an "ISF" tech) to refine the calibration of the TV. Ideally, this is stuff which SHOULD be adjusted inside the TV. The fact that the Anthem offers some additional control can be helpful, but it really shouldn't be the primary way of tackling this style of setup stuff.


Beyond that, I'm not really sure what the Elites give you except for a longer warranty and the joy of paying more money to your favorite dealer.


------------------------------------------


There are /120Hz LCD sets out now, but as far as I've been able to figure out NONE OF THEM are using that yet to tackle film vs. video content reproduction properly. They are using the /120 stuff to fix the bane of LCD -- motion blur.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




Bob Pariseau said:


> The Elite models offer a more sophisticated set of setup controls that can be used by a trained video calibration tech (an "ISF" tech) to refine the calibration of the TV. Ideally, this is stuff which SHOULD be adjusted inside the TV. The fact that the Anthem offers some additional control can be helpful, but it really shouldn't be the primary way of tackling this style of setup stuff.
> 
> 
> Beyond that, I'm not really sure what the Elites give you except for a longer warranty and the joy of paying more money to your favorite dealer.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> There are /120Hz LCD sets out now, but as far as I've been able to figure out NONE OF THEM are using that yet to tackle film vs. video content reproduction properly. They are using the /120 stuff to fix the bane of LCD -- motion blur.
> 
> --Bob[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> OH YEA...(ISF) I forgot about that one... that is nice.
> 
> 
> I wonder if there are any other advantages for the elite vs. the standard offering?
> 
> 
> Anyone?


----------



## cecaa850

I went for the 60" Elite 1080P plasma. I picked it up yesterday. It was the last piece of my HT makeover (including the D2!) Impressions should come shortly. I did however check out my panel in the store before I bought it. They had it hooked up to a 1080p Blueray player. The picture was absolutely captivating. It was hard to look away. My wife was afraid the 60" would be too big but after she saw the PQ, I never heard another word about the size. I've got to get a couple more cables and it should be up and running. I've got an IFS calibrator scheduled for next month.


----------



## cecaa850

Oh, yea, I think the Elites have an extra year of warranty over the non Elite's.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

cecca850,

I'll be very interested to learn how well your new Pioneer Elite 1080p 60" works for 24fps film content via the D2.


---------------------------------------------------


And I'm still hopeful that Anthem will have a breakthrough on 480i/60Hz input to 1080p/24Hz output conversion with the next software update.

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11668742
> 
> 
> cecca850,
> 
> I'll be very interested to learn how well your new Pioneer Elite 1080p 60" works for 24fps film content via the D2.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Me too!


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Ok, so I currently have my D2 hooked up to my PJ through HDMI. I am adding another display to the room that I would also like to hook up to the D2


Ideally I would like to hook up the second display through the D2 via HDMI. Since the D2 only has one HDMI output is my only option (for HDMI) a HDMI splitter? If so, does anyone have a suggestion for a good splitter? Keep in mind that the current HDMI run to the PJ is about 50ft. The run to the second display will be about 6 feet.


I believe from previous posts that my other option would be to run component cable from the D2 to the second display...but the negative is that the image would be down processedsince the incoming source video is coming through HDMI..correct?


Thus the best option component option is to run a component connection from the sources to the d2 (for the second display) and then component to the second display to take advantage of the D2's processing. Do I have this right?


My current sources are cable... HDMI, DVD HDMI, and XBOX -Component.


-b


----------



## Tim Winders

b -


Bob answered this same question for me recently. You can connect your 2nd display via component, but any sources with HDCP will not output to the component. So, you would have to connect component cables from the sources to the D2 as well.


You can try an HDMI splitter. monoprice has some active and passive splitters. I don't know which ones work and which don't. Even the active seems fairly inexpensive at under $100. The specs do say it will pass 1080p. At 50', I would use an active splitter beforehand.


----------



## KX250F

I'm sure this question has been ask before but here it goes anyway. Does the D2 scale to 1080p/24 if it doesn't is there a way to pass it through so it takes the audio from the HDMI and just passes the video to the projector. I would like to to set my Blu-ray player to 1080p/24 and send the signal over HDMI to the D2 and then have it go to the projector (The projector is 1080p/24 capable).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KX250F* /forum/post/11674085
> 
> 
> I'm sure this question has been ask before



Only about 100 times - maybe more.


----------



## [email protected]

Bob,

I recently had Direct Tv integrate the HR20 into my system. I have tried connecting the HR20 to a Sharp LCD (LC-32D5U) directly via HDMI with no success. I have also tried going to the AVM50 first and then to the TV also unsuccessfully. When connectd directly to the TV I get a pink screen. When connected to the AVM50 and then to the TV I get no picture. Is there any way to fix this? Thanks.


----------



## KX250F

I knew I should have just PMed Bob.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/11674206
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I recently had Direct Tv integrate the HR20 into my system. I have tried connecting the HR20 to a Sharp LCD (LC-32D5U) directly via HDMI with no success. I have also tried going to the AVM50 first and then to the TV also unsuccessfully. When connectd directly to the TV I get a pink screen. When connected to the AVM50 and then to the TV I get no picture. Is there any way to fix this? Thanks.



I've had issues with one of my HR20's HDMI outputs going bad.... but try a couple of things first.


Make sure you have the latest software for the HR20... To do this, restart the receiver... (under setup >restart receiver or push the little red button on under the little flap on the front right bottom corner.)


When you see the first blue screen come up (assuming you've hooked up via component or s-video) type 0 2 4 6 8 on the remote... this will force a software download if you aren't up to date..


If this doesn't fix the problem, you may try changing the repeater options in the source setup on the AVM...


If this doesn't fix it... use component and optical for sound until you can get a new box... you will see no difference on these boxes between HDMI and Component.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No time for detailed answers tonight.


[email protected]: The fact that you can't get a direct HDMI connection working from the HR20 to your Sharp is not a good sign. If HDMI from the AVM-50 to the Sharp is working for other stuff the odds are either that your HR20 is faulty or that the HDMI cable from the HR20 is bad.


Make sure HDMI output from the AVM-50 to the Sharp is working using the Anthem's own video tests -- you don't need any source device for this. For example the Setup menu itself and also Video Source Adjust / Patterns for any input that doesn't have a video source attached.


Also, Setup / Source Select / HDMI Repeater = NO should be set in the Anthem input for the HR20.


-------------------------------------------------------------


KX250F: The latest software (V1.12s, AKA V1.2) -- available from Anthem tech support -- has improvements for 1080p/24 stuff.


1080p/24 in to 1080p/24 out will work fine with that. This software lets you define 2 video out setups. Set one for 1080p/24 out to your display. Set the other for 1080p/60. Assign each one to each of your inputs as appropriate. You can use the overlayed input definitions (i.e., DVD1, DVD2, etc.) to set up two definitions for your Blu-Ray player if you want.


However, 480i/60 to 1080p/24 and 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversions are still not working correctly. For 480i/60 or 1080i/60 input sources, use 1080p/60 output for now even when viewing film based content.

--Bob


----------



## legacyrocks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/11668299
> 
> 
> I went for the 60" Elite 1080P plasma. I picked it up yesterday. It was the last piece of my HT makeover (including the D2!) Impressions should come shortly. I did however check out my panel in the store before I bought it. They had it hooked up to a 1080p Blueray player. The picture was absolutely captivating. It was hard to look away. My wife was afraid the 60" would be too big but after she saw the PQ, I never heard another word about the size. I've got to get a couple more cables and it should be up and running. I've got an IFS calibrator scheduled for next month.



Very Nice. Looks like you are headed in the same direction as me. I just bought a AVM 50 a couple of months ago and now I just bought the Pioneer Elite 150FD. I just started the break in DVD for the tv and I am only a little over 24 hours in. I think I will use the breakin DVD for the first 300 hours just to be safe for no IR or burn in. What an awesome tv. I cant wait to get it hooked up through my AVM 50. I guess I should follow Bobs set up that is posted on the first few pages on this thread. Bob any suggestions on setting up a AVM 50 using the HDMI switching, scaling to a Pioneer Elite 1080p plasma? Any suggestions much appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## ILJG

I know the XA2 HD DVD player has some issues with 1080p24 from the recent firmware update, but has anyone tried the A30 (or FW updated A20) 1080p24 out to their D2? Is it working properly and has anyone done some A/B tests on noticebly juddery scenes, like the beginning of Sahara for example?


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I’ll keep this as short as possible.


Right now I’m running a HD-PVR Sat, Xbox360, 1080i panny plasma, Panny up-converting DVD player, Merantz receiver (used as a pre-amp) and a Bryston 9bst amp.


I will be making the change to Bluray or HD DVD one of these days.


My question is simple. Is the Anthem AMV50 worth the money? Will I actually be able to see and hear a tangible improvement? I have the opportunity to purchase an AMV50 for 4000.00 (cdn) no tax’s. 4000.00 that’s it! I could also sell my current receiver for 250/300 bucks. It’s 8 months old and was used by the owner of the electronics store I’ve been buying my HT equipment from for years.


But 4000.00 now is steep. It’ll have to go on my VISA and it’ll take a while to pay off. I’ll be paying interest on the purchase for sure.


Would the processor make that big of a difference? Is this too good a deal to pass up? Any and all advice is welcome. This one is stressing me out!


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ILJG* /forum/post/11676115
> 
> 
> I know the XA2 HD DVD player has some issues with 1080p24 from the recent firmware update, but has anyone tried the A30 (or FW updated A20) 1080p24 out to their D2? Is it working properly and has anyone done some A/B tests on noticebly juddery scenes, like the beginning of Sahara for example?



The HD-A20 works perfectly with the D2 at 1080p24. Set up the video mode for that output to 1080p24 in the D2 and it will pass it through with no hiccups and no audio delays at all.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/11677113
> 
> 
> I'll keep this as short as possible.
> 
> 
> Right now I'm running a HD-PVR Sat, Xbox360, 1080i panny plasma, Panny up-converting DVD player, Merantz receiver (used as a pre-amp) and a Bryston 9bst amp.
> 
> 
> I will be making the change to Bluray or HD DVD one of these days.
> 
> 
> My question is simple. Is the Anthem AMV50 worth the money? Will I actually be able to see and hear a tangible improvement? I have the opportunity to purchase an AMV50 for 4000.00 (cdn) no tax's. 4000.00 that's it! I could also sell my current receiver for 250/300 bucks. It's 8 months old and was used by the owner of the electronics store I've been buying my HT equipment from for years.
> 
> 
> But 4000.00 now is steep. It'll have to go on my VISA and it'll take a while to pay off. I'll be paying interest on the purchase for sure.
> 
> 
> Would the processor make that big of a difference? Is this too good a deal to pass up? Any and all advice is welcome. This one is stressing me out!



It's not worth getting stressed out over a home theater purchase. It's just a hobby!


Yes the AVM-50 will improve your video in ways you can see, and yes the audio will also be improved -- particularly when you eventually go to HD-DVD or Blu-Ray. But if the financial pain is such that you'll be feeling it every time you turn on your system it just isn't worth it.


Odds are there will be more used Anthem stuff available next year because the used equipment market always gets larger in proportion to the number of new units sold no matter how much people like the new units. And you don't even have your HD-DVD or Blu-Ray yet.

--Bob


----------



## ILJG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/11677164
> 
> 
> The HD-A20 works perfectly with the D2 at 1080p24. Set up the video mode for that output to 1080p24 in the D2 and it will pass it through with no hiccups and no audio delays at all.



Kris, thanks! Would it be a fair statement to say, that for all intents and purposes, 1080p24 from the Tosh HD DVD models (that are currently working correctly) are behaving the same way as BD's "forced mode" heading into the D2? Sounds to me, anyway, like they are.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11677309
> 
> 
> It's not worth getting stressed out over a home theater purchase. It's just a hobby!
> 
> 
> Yes the AVM-50 will improve your video in ways you can see, and yes the audio will also be improved -- particularly when you eventually go to HD-DVD or Blu-Ray. But if the financial pain is such that you'll be feeling it every time you turn on your system it just isn't worth it.
> 
> 
> Odds are there will be more used Anthem stuff available next year because the used equipment market always gets larger in proportion to the number of new units sold no matter how much people like the new units. *And you don't even have your HD-DVD or Blu-Ray yet.*--Bob



That’s exactly what I was thinking. No HD-DVD or Blu-Ray and no 1080p display. A few weeks ago we bought a 42inch plasma for our bedroom. As we were chewing the fat I mentioned that I’d be interested in his AMV 50 when he’s ready to upgrade. I never dreamt he’d call me three weeks later.


I never mentioned I have the studio line of Paradigm speakers. The 100v3, CC570, ADP 470 rear and Servo 15v2 sub.


I’m pretty sure I’d LOVE that processor!


I’m also a little scared of the thing! This thread is little overwhelming. It doesn’t seem like this processor is anything like what I’m used to. Harmony 880 click watch movie and whala, just push play. It seems like you need an engineering degree to just set the thing up.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/11677458
> 
> 
> I'm also a little scared of the thing! This thread is little overwhelming. It doesn't seem like this processor is anything like what I'm used to. Harmony 880 click watch movie and whala, just push play. It seems like you need an engineering degree to just set the thing up.



Oh it's not THAT bad. A Divinity degree, perhaps.


There are a bunch of links collected in the first post of this thread that may help de-mystify some of this stuff for you. The "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" link is in there for example.


The trick with doing this stuff yourself is to get the basics down and then go back and revisit your setup periodically after you've gotten in some viewing time. Look and listen to what you are viewing and if something bothers you, or if you think maybe you rushed through a step, go back and retry your audio or video setup stuff.


Feel free to make small changes and see what happens. Keep some notes. Primarily what you are doing is training yourself to see and hear the differences.


The basics of audio setup can be accomplished in a half hour or less with nothing fancier than your trusty, Radio Shack, Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter. Bass setup is the single most complicated part. You can spend weeks tweaking your bass setup before you run out of ways to improve it. But the initial setup won't be bad by any means. It can just get better.


Video setup is a little trickier because you have to learn to see what the controls do, and you have to disabuse yourself of your preconceptions about what good video looks like based on poorly calibrated TV setups you might have been using before. The individual steps are not tough, but it takes some patience as the controls interact and you are still training yourself to see what you need to see.


Once you've got a handle on what's going on (see that "Video Calibration" post), you can do a video setup pass as well in less than half an hour. But odds are it will come out better the second time you try it. And the third, and etc. Because you are getting better at seeing things and you are learning what small changes in the settings will produce in what you see while watching real content.


Of course you could also pay a professional to do it all for you. But even if you ARE going to do that, I recommend you take the time to do it as best you can yourself FIRST. You'll have a better appreciation for what the professional is doing, and why he is charging what he's charging.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11677725
> 
> 
> Oh it's not THAT bad. A Divinity degree, perhaps.
> 
> 
> There are a bunch of links collected in the first post of this thread that may help de-mystify some of this stuff for you. The "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" link is in there for example.
> 
> 
> The trick with doing this stuff yourself is to get the basics down and then go back and revisit your setup periodically after you've gotten in some viewing time. Look and listen to what you are viewing and if something bothers you, or if you think maybe you rushed through a step, go back and retry your audio or video setup stuff.
> 
> 
> Feel free to make small changes and see what happens. Keep some notes. Primarily what you are doing is training yourself to see and hear the differences.
> 
> 
> The basics of audio setup can be accomplished in a half hour or less with nothing fancier than your trusty, Radio Shack, Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter. Bass setup is the single most complicated part. You can spend weeks tweaking your bass setup before you run out of ways to improve it. But the initial setup won't be bad by any means. It can just get better.
> 
> 
> Video setup is a little trickier because you have to learn to see what the controls do, and you have to disabuse yourself of your preconceptions about what good video looks like based on poorly calibrated TV setups you might have been using before. The individual steps are not tough, but it takes some patience as the controls interact and you are still training yourself to see what you need to see.
> 
> 
> Once you've got a handle on what's going on (see that "Video Calibration" post), you can do a video setup pass as well in less than half an hour. But odds are it will come out better the second time you try it. And the third, and etc. Because you are getting better at seeing things and you are learning what small changes in the settings will produce in what you see while watching real content.
> 
> 
> Of course you could also pay a professional to do it all for you. But even if you ARE going to do that, I recommend you take the time to do it as best you can yourself FIRST. You'll have a better appreciation for what the professional is doing, and why he is charging what he's charging.
> 
> --Bob



Bob let me ask you this. What do you think of the idea of instead of swinging for the fence with the AMV 50 if I were to grab used Anthem AVM 20 v2.21. This processor is said to be vertically identical to the AMV 30. I'll get the benefit of a great audio processor that I can upgrade to the AMV 50 when the times right for me. I can get a 20v2.21 for 1400.00. It's much easier on the old pocket book. That would allow me to upgrade the board (at about 2000.00) in a year or so.


Is there any reason I should stay away from the 20v2.21?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well the AVM20 is a discontinued product -- replaced by the 30. It's not that big a deal, but something to keep in mind. When you buy used you probably won't be able to get warranty service.


The AVM20 or 30 would be an audio only solution for the traditional styles of home theater audio -- not the new lossless formats for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray. As such it is easy for you to do a direct comparison with your current receiver. You can probably find an AVM30 at a dealer you can listen to. Better yet, see if you can get them to let you try it at home with your other equipment for a few days.


Also consider the AVM40 which has HDMI video switching and HDMI audio processing, but no video processing.

--Bob


----------



## adidino

Anyone know what the settings should be for the Sony BDPS1 with the latest firmware for Dolby TRUEHD and DTS HD processing through HDMI?


I have DTS set to DTS and the same for Dolby Digital in the audio setup of the Sony. Should any of these be set to downmix to PCM? There is no indication of DTSHD and TRUEHD on the menu even though the latest firmware from Sony is supposed to decode these formats now. If I select DTSHD in the movie settings of a bluray disk, the Anthem thinks it's DTS. So I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong.


Thanks for the help everyone.


Tony


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11674098
> 
> 
> Only about 100 times - maybe more.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11652511
> 
> 
> I suspect there will be less expensive alternatives to the Denon that will be a better fit when paired with the Anthem stuff.
> 
> 
> What I can't tell yet is whether any other of the majors are going to try to slip profile 1.1 player announcements in between now and Christmas. All Blu-Ray players launched (announced) after October HAVE TO BE at least profile 1.1 according to the latest dictum from the Blu-Ray consortium. But it is awfully tough to make an announcement later than September and still get product in the channels for the Christmas season. So they may just wait until after Christmas.
> 
> 
> If Denon hits its October ship date, they may be the only game in town for a full quarter. And thus they get the premium price.
> 
> 
> I'm actually quite disappointed that Pioneer did not announce a profile 1.1 Blu-Ray player with built-in DTS-HD MA decoding at CEDIA.
> 
> 
> Also please be aware that the marketing guys are at it again! Some players are likely going to be marketed as having DTS-HD MA decoding. But if you read the fine print, you will discover they only ACTUALLY decode the "core" subset of the DTS-HD MA track. I.e., they've extracted the "core" bitstream, which is a lossy DTS track, and fed it into their built-in LOSSY DTS decoder. Fake decoding, misleadingly labeled.
> 
> 
> Caveat Emptor!
> 
> --Bob



I am also disappointed buy Pioneer latest announcement. They and Denon should be leading the way on DTS-HD MA.


I this point I don't believe we will get in our hand a DTS-HD MA decoding player before 12-18 months.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11617398
> 
> 
> Trevlan,
> 
> 
> Think long and hard. The AVM-50 is serious money & the D2 is an extra 2K on top of that. If you like to tinker and appreciate the ability to go through progressions of firmware improvement (I do) then the Anthem provides serious flexibility. I have become disappointed in the current stall in software with some noticeable shortcomings, but I have confidence they will be fixed.
> 
> 
> There are folks currently "downgrading from the Anthem to the Integra 9.8 which I'm interested in seeing the comparison.
> 
> 
> The high end video was state of the art, but like much technology becomes commoditized and actually surpassed at much cheaper costs. But like waiting to buy a computer while waiting for the inevitable cheaper and faster one, you miss out on the joy of a solution in the interim.
> 
> 
> I will probably be pilloried but the Anthem is stalled and there are newer generations of better and cheaper hardware coming out. The D3 will set a new technology standard on the curve when it comes out, but the current generation is ebbing as new products from other vendors come out with more of everything built in.
> 
> 
> That said I love my Anthem, and I'm glad I did not add the 2K on top to get the D2, as the cost proposition is just not there (for me), despite extreme disappointment on the eq- solution not being available for the folks paying 4K plus the cost of Amps. I'm an Anthem fan, and even though I can easily afford the D2 upgrade, I'm not an Anthem fanboy or zealot. There are deficiencies, stability issues, and high cost, balanced with great service (until lately) and a well integrated solution which unfortunately doesn't have the capacity to support all my devices without external switchers and a variety of compatibility problems. So, especially because of the high cost, it will have to be pried out of my cold dead hands. OR being a realist, until a better solution comes around (look at the CEDIA news) for everyones subjective and configuration specific needs. Every home theater is a balance and just think hard what gives YOU the most enjoyment (typically the projector in most theaters) and build out from there.
> 
> 
> Fan but not Fanboy,
> 
> Tim



Tim,


I don't really agree with you on this one. What is the first reason to buy a pre/pro vs another pre/pro in the first place? Belts and whistles, or sound quality?


The 2K addition of the D2 is justified just in sound quality improvement over AVM50.


Should we all jump on the latest Pioneer or Denon receivers to get the new chips sets of video processor, HDMI, and audio processing? I am pretty sure for a current D2 owner the lost of sound quality will definitively not be worth.


I am not a fanboy but a realistic guy. We cannot ask from a company such anthem to dump new products as quickly as Pioneer or Denon while keeping the price/ratio quality at the level it is right now. Look at the blu-ray player; are we better served by having a new a Pioneer BR player every 4 months?


Is the core competence of the D2 or even the AVM50 being currently attacked by the competition? I don't think so.


Just my 2 cents.


----------



## chas

I sent my D2 in for servicing in April (one of the HDMI jacks died). It has worked without a hitch since its return.


Last night I was flipping through the settings menu and noticed that the unit is calling itself a D1-HD rather than a D2. I have no idea how long it's been like that. The serial number is the same as before April. The software is 1.11.


Any ideas what's going on? Thanks.


C.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/11689494
> 
> 
> I sent my D2 in for servicing in April (one of the HDMI jacks died). It has worked without a hitch since its return.
> 
> 
> Last night I was flipping through the settings menu and noticed that the unit is calling itself a D1-HD rather than a D2. I have no idea how long it's been like that. The serial number is the same as before April. The software is 1.11.
> 
> 
> Any ideas what's going on? Thanks.
> 
> 
> C.



It's been a while, but I believe this is a known bug in the V1.11 software that was fixed around V1.11e.


The software was written in anticipation of the D1 to D1-HD upgrade program that was about to start up, and apparently they got some test wrong so it displays the wrong identifier -- in your case, apparently triggered by whatever hardware they changed out to fix your HDMI failure. You can safely ignore the fact that it is calling itself a D1-HD unless it still does so after you upgrade to newer software at some point in the future.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders

Holy cable simplification batman!


That's right! I brought home my new D2 this morning. Just finished getting it setup. You should see the pile of cables removed from my system. Wow!


My setup now contains: 1 pair stereo cables from tape player (yes, analog tapes!), 1 digital audio cable from Squeezebox, 1 HDMI cable from DVD (Pioneer Elite DV-79AVi), 1 DVI-HDMI cable and 1 digital audio cable from HD DVR (LST-3410A).


I've removed the external scaler (HD Leeza) and all it's cables, the external Tuner, some IR receiver and repeater cables. The D2 takes care of so many extra features. It's awesome! Haven't had any critical listening or watching yet... that will come tonight.


So, Bob! Where are those mascots!


----------



## chas

Thanks. What's the latest estimate of when 1.12 will be released to the general public?


C.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11690166
> 
> 
> So, Bob! Where are those mascots!



I can supply Mascots - but have you turned it

on yet to HEAR and SEE the Benefits besides

LESS CABLES


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/11690186
> 
> 
> Thanks. What's the latest estimate of when 1.12 will be released to the general public?
> 
> 
> C.



I've given up trying to guess on this one. Apparently they are still trying to decide whether they are happy with the way it works for previously shipped units -- even as they ship it factory installed in new units. This is not as weird as it might sound as there are undoubtedly component changes here and there that have been made over time in newly manufactured units.


If you contact Anthem tech support and get any better update on this, please do let us know.


So far, from reports here, we've been able to confirm that the most important known bugs in the V1.11 software -- fixed in the V1.11a through V1.11g test releases -- are indeed still fixed in the V1.12s version that tech support has been emailing out on request. On the other hand, we've also had reports of a few new HDMI handshake problems with V1.12s -- the sort of thing that might require a power-cycle to resolve. V1.12 includes a re-write of the HDMI portion of the software. So folks are hoping there will be at least one more bug fix pass before it goes "final".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11690166
> 
> 
> Holy cable simplification batman!
> 
> 
> That's right! I brought home my new D2 this morning. Just finished getting it setup. You should see the pile of cables removed from my system. Wow!
> 
> 
> My setup now contains: 1 pair stereo cables from tape player (yes, analog tapes!), 1 digital audio cable from Squeezebox, 1 HDMI cable from DVD (Pioneer Elite DV-79AVi), 1 DVI-HDMI cable and 1 digital audio cable from HD DVR (LST-3410A).
> 
> 
> I've removed the external scaler (HD Leeza) and all it's cables, the external Tuner, some IR receiver and repeater cables. The D2 takes care of so many extra features. It's awesome! Haven't had any critical listening or watching yet... that will come tonight.
> 
> 
> So, Bob! Where are those mascots!



Bouncing your way now!







































--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11690353
> 
> 
> I can supply Mascots - but have you turned it
> 
> on yet to HEAR and SEE the Benefits besides
> 
> LESS CABLES




 Naturally I have turned it on. Had to do that to get it setup. Setup the source inputs, video output, etc. I put in my Dolby Digital demo DVD and it plays. I used my RS SPL meter to set the basic levels. So, everything is basically there. But, as I don't have a light controlled room, I can't do any critical VIEWING until it's dark outside and as I have 4 LOUD kids, I can't do any critical LISTENING until they go outside to play.








So, I won't comment on how much better it is.... just that it WORKS.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11690565
> 
> 
> Bouncing your way now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Now *THAT's* what I'm talking about! Wu hoo!


And, my unit did come shipped with 1.2. Nothing new or unexpected there...


----------



## audiman

Now that the Canadian $ is at par with the American $, why is it that the upgrade cost 200$ for Canadians ? Especially when anthem is a Canadian cie ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Obviously they like us Americans better.


Really though, it is pretty tough for a company to adjust prices in real time according to exchange rates. What usually happens is that the company sets fixed prices for a time (a few months or longer) and the treasurer's people do exchange rate hedging transactions to keep things sane.


This is done both for the prices they receive and the prices they pay to their suppliers.


----------------------------------------


But if the upgrade price were to adjust, the Canadian $ price would remain unchanged (since that's their native currencty) and the American $ price would have to go up. So it would be the same cost to you, in Canada, as it is now.


EDITED TO ADD: But if you are an American customer, you might want to consider doing the upgrade before the price goes up....

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders

Well, perhaps I spoke too soon when I said it works.










Testing CD and DVR functionality now...


Squeezebox is connected via digial coax. I get no audio.


Under CD source setup, I have AUDIO IN: Dig Coax CD and the Squeezebox is connected to the digial coax CD port. For AUTO DIG I have tried both Yes and No with no effect. I connected a pair of analog cables and connected to the analog CD input source and get audio. So, what am I doing wrong with the digital connection?


For my HD DVR (LG LST-3410A). I have connected via DVI-HDMI to HDMI3 and via Opti Digial to Opti 3. I have the LG configured to output 1080i fixed via DVI. The picture and audio keep getting blocked. Sometimes I get a message on screen from the LG which says "DVI blocked". The D2 status screen keps changing to Digital when it blanks and then Dolby D 5.1+PLIIx when there is audio. I connected the LG via Component, changed source configuration to use Component 3 and set the LG to output YPbPr. When I do this, I don't get any picture on screen, but the audio is solid. (The screen is a Home Cinema 1080p projector connected via HDMI).


Is this some type of DVI/HDMI/HDCP handshaking issue? Anyone else have an LG LST-3410A connected to their D2? Worth a call to Anthem?


I'm hoping this are I.D. ten T. errors and not something wrong with the D2.


----------



## Tim Winders

A bit more troubleshooting on the Squeezebox...


optical digital out works. tried different coax digital cables and different coax digital inputs on the D2 and it still doesn't work. So, perhaps there is a problem with the coax digital port on the Squeeze. So, take that off the table.


LG LST-3410A still a problem...


----------



## Tim Winders

Grrr. Trying to understand the D2 setup interface....


on the LG source, change the SCALER INPUT to Component 3 and I get a picture. So, that works. Seems to be an HDMI/DVI/HDCP issue between the LG and D2.


On the source setup menu, what are the Component In, S-Video In and Composite In options used for? (Downloading the manual now)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim,

For the DVR input, set Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO in the Anthem. This simplifies the handshake by tricking the DVR into thinking it is directly connected to a TV.


The Setup / Source Setup / Scaler In line specifies which video input will be processed through the scaler. For HDMI this is also where you specify which jack you are using.


For Component, and S-video you merely state which type of video you are using and you specify the specific jack separately in the Component In and S-video In line. The reason it is done this way is that the Anthem can "pass through" Component and S-video UNprocessed even if they are not going to the scaler. You use the Composite In line for Composite video which can only be "passed through" -- can't be processed through the scaler.


-------------------------------------


The problem with the coax output of your squeezebox may be a bad output, or it may be that you have to turn on that output in the squeezebox's menus. Also, make sure it is in fact a digital AUDIO output that you are using from the squeezebox.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders

Thanks, Bob. On the Squeeze, I think it's the connector. It was working before I took out my old system, so I don't know what happened. I'll put it there until I can test it better.


On the DVR. Grrr. I've seen you put that HDMI Repeater = NO configuration in this thread so many times, and yet I didn't think of that. Note to Anthem... on the setup menu screen, if there are more options, indicate that somehow on the screen (up and down arrows?) to show there are more options. I didn't even try to scroll down any more.


Unfortunately, the default settings is NO. Changing it to YES didn't make any difference. Setting it back to NO (just to make sure it "stuck") results in the same blinking screen and "DVI blocked" messages from the DVR.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim,

OK, first are you sure the DVI output of your DVR is actually working?


Also, does your projector use an HDMI input or DVI? If DVI, are you sure your projector is HDCP compliant on that DVI input? An HDMI input will be compliant, but DVI might not be.


Your Video Output setting in the Anthem should have Preferred = HDMI. Make sure you have specified the correct one of the 2 Video Output settings in the Source Setup definition for the DVR.


I'm assuming the HDMI output to your projector is working fine with the video internally generated in the Anthem -- the Anthem Setup menus and also the test patterns in Video Source Adjust / Patterns. Correct?


Also make sure that you are making changes in the correct input definition in the Anthem. It is easy to confuse DVD1, DVD2, etc. or TV1, TV2, etc.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim,

Also try this: Press the Main button in the green section at the top of the remote to be sure the remote is controlling the Anthem's "Main" path. Then press the button at the bottom of the remote to select the DVR input in the Anthem.


It occurs to me that you might be accidentally trying to send the DVR's DVI video to the Zone 2 path as processed video. That won't work. The DVR would see it as an attempt to send copy protected digital video to a non-copy protected display and you would get the complaints you are reporting.


Until you get used to the Anthem remote it is easy to confuse the top buttons with the bottom buttons and thus the remote accidentally gets set to control the wrong thing (top buttons) instead of selecting the input you want (bottom buttons).

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11692444
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> OK, first are you sure the DVI output of your DVR is actually working?
> 
> 
> Also, does your projector use an HDMI input or DVI? If DVI, are you sure your projector is HDCP compliant on that DVI input? An HDMI input will be compliant, but DVI might not be.
> 
> 
> Your Video Output setting in the Anthem should have Preferred = HDMI. Make sure you have specified the correct one of the 2 Video Output settings in the Source Setup definition for the DVR.
> 
> 
> I'm assuming the HDMI output to your projector is working fine with the video internally generated in the Anthem -- the Anthem Setup menus and also the test patterns in Video Source Adjust / Patterns. Correct?
> 
> 
> Also make sure that you are making changes in the correct input definition in the Anthem. It is easy to confuse DVD1, DVD2, etc. or TV1, TV2, etc.
> 
> --Bob



Video Output Config 1. Preferred: HDMI

Source Setup SAT1. VID OUT CNFG: 1


The DVI is working, I see picture, then it blanks and I get a period message on the projector coming from the DVR which says DVI Disabled.


Before the D2, I had the DVR connected via DVI to my HD Leeza (which has DVI input and outputs). The projector is HDMI 1.3 (Epson Home Cinema 1080p). I only have HDMI cable connected. Yes, all video is working fine, from both the internet D2 images as well as from the HDMI connected DVD player. It's only the DVR giving me the problem.


Component 2 was set to processed. I set it to COMPNT2 OUT to Off and I get the same thing.


But, this got me to thinking. I did set the Source Setup, REC COPY: Always. I changed that back to Manual and still have the same result.







I tried to check the Record path and it showed -Main->Record, so while on the Record path, I pressed CD and now the Record path shows CD, even after I switch back to Main and then to Record. But, I still get the blinking on the screen from the DVR when connected by DVI-HDMI to the D2. Component works without a problem.


I'm not using the Anthem remote. I've downloaded the Pronto CCF from the Anthem website and am using my Pronto. To make sure I'm working with the main zone, I pressed the Main button on the front of the D2 then the SAT button on the front of the D2. I am making changes to the SAT1 source definition on the D2.


I think that addresses everything you suggested. Same situation.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well, I'm running out of things to suggest.


One possibility is that the DVI to HDMI cable you are using from the DVR to the Anthem is faulty.


Let's also try a power cycle: Turn off the Anthem with the remote and turn off the DVR. Then turn off the Anthem at the back panel power switch and also disconnect power from the DVR. Now repower the Anthem and DVR and when the DVR is live again, turn on the Anthem with the remote. There have been cases where the source gets the Anthem so confused on its HDMI input that you need to power cycle to clear it. It's a long shot, but worth a try.


If that doesn't do it, and if a replacement DVI to HDMI cable doesn't do it, I think you'll need to contact Anthem tech support to see what they suggest.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders

OK. I'll give Anthem a call. Thanks for all the help.


(power cycling everything and a different DVI-HDMI cable didn't change anything).


----------



## Tim Winders

How HOT should this thing get? It's on a shelf in my component rack with 2" clearance above it (to the next shelf). When I reached around the back to power off the unit it was very hot. Not so hot I couldn't touch it, but, too hot to leave my hand there for more than 5 seconds.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It will get quite warm on the right side (as you face the unit) where the power supply is.


But 2" clearance is not really enough to let it radiate the heat properly. If you can't give it more clearance you should consider an external fan.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders

OK. will investigate a fan or rearranging the equipment.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Consider removing one shelf so that the D2 is sitting in the bottom of a double-height space.


Some posters have also said they've had good results by putting the D2 on 1/2 inch spacers under each foot to increase the air flow underneath.


Get one of those remote sensing thermometers sold at cooking stores (usually shaped like a gun and sometimes with a little laser light pointer to help aim them -- point at a surface and it shows you that surface's temp). With that you can easily check the surface temperatures of the shelves and walls around the D2. It's not so much the heat of the D2 itself as the heat of the stuff surrounding it that makes the difference -- i.e., whether it ends up heating up the space so much so that it is sitting in an oven.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders

The temp sensor is a great idea. There is lots of space on the sides and behind the unit, it's an open rack, so the air around the unit shouldn't be heated. I'll check it and see. If needed, I can rearrange everything to create more open space above and below the Anthem.


----------



## AnthemAVM

Anyone ever tried one of these above or below the D2?













Three large fans, ball bearing construction for long life

Two Turn Off Modes, instant turn off or 10 minute delayed turn off

Three user-selectable fan speeds

High air flow, greater than 90 cubic feet / minute at max speed

Three auto turn on modes, 12 Volt DC trigger, 120V AC or front panel button

Auto turn on mode disables front panel power button

Extra-quiet design, less than 33 dB noise

Switchable 115v / 230v operation

1U half-rack space chassis

(W x D x H): 9 ½" x 9" x 2 ¼" / 1 ¾" without feet

(W X D x H): 242mm x 229mm x 57.5mm / 44.5mm w/o feet

Parasound 10 year parts, 5 years labor warranty


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/11694501
> 
> 
> Anyone ever tried one of these above or below the D2?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three large fans, ball bearing construction for long life
> 
> Two Turn Off Modes, instant turn off or 10 minute delayed turn off
> 
> Three user-selectable fan speeds
> 
> High air flow, greater than 90 cubic feet / minute at max speed
> 
> Three auto turn on modes, 12 Volt DC trigger, 120V AC or front panel button
> 
> Auto turn on mode disables front panel power button
> 
> Extra-quiet design, less than 33 dB noise
> 
> Switchable 115v / 230v operation
> 
> 1U half-rack space chassis
> 
> (W x D x H): 9 ½" x 9" x 2 ¼" / 1 ¾" without feet
> 
> (W X D x H): 242mm x 229mm x 57.5mm / 44.5mm w/o feet
> 
> Parasound 10 year parts, 5 years labor warranty



No, but after having severe temperature sensitivity problems with an earlier D2, I found that simply placing an ultraquiet 120mm PC case fan flat on top of the D2's case (blowing upwards) is extremely effective at cooling the guts of the D2. The fan sits on top of the center vents, pulls hot air up and out of the D2 and cool air into the bottom vents.


----------



## GabGuy

Last night I started a thread (no responses) about my new AVM 50 giving me a blue screen with component 1080i. After poring through these 360 pages I see that my unit apparently has a bug. My firmware is 1.11. If I download from Anthem's site, will I get one of these later 1.11g versions that has the 1080i component input bug fixed?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GabGuy* /forum/post/11696662
> 
> 
> Last night I started a thread (no responses) about my new AVM 50 giving me a blue screen with component 1080i. After poring through these 360 pages I see that my unit apparently has a bug. My firmware is 1.11. If I download from Anthem's site, will I get one of these later 1.11g versions that has the 1080i component input bug fixed?



No.


For reasons not readily apparent, Anthem has not updated the version of software on their web site for quite some time.


You need to contact Anthem tech support, and they will email you the newer software.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GabGuy* /forum/post/11694563
> 
> 
> I just got an AVM 50 and can't get a picture to display on my TV, though the setup menus show up on the TV screen. I go through the setup menus and assign the sources to an input, but nothing works. I've assigned sources with other processors and know the drill... yet nothing seems to work with my AVM 50. Here is what I am using and what I have tried:
> 
> 
> Dish Network 622 HDMI>HDMI in>Component 1 and 2 out
> 
> Dish Network 622 Component>Component in>Component 1 and 2 out
> 
> 
> I've tried both outputs, and on the input setup setting scaler input, component input, trying different inputs, on Video Ouput selecting unprocessed on Zone 2, you name it . What is causing me crazy is I've used this particular AVM 50 before. I borrowed the unit from a dealer last month and it worked fine. I set it up effortlessly, don't remember what I did. I took it back after my demo, and today went to buy... I ended up buying the same unit back. They said it was untouched since I left it a month ago, and I believe them. They are closed until Monday and I would really like to get this working this weekend.
> 
> 
> There HAS to be a way to run component signals through! Would some D2/AVM50 owner be kind enough to help me get this going with a little step by step on what to configure and how? Can't I use the processor with a 1080i signal from Dish and use it to make picture adjustments? I know about the tweaking thread, but thousands of posts to wade through...



OK, I found this where you asked it in your other post. Let's take it a step at a time.


First, HDMI in to Component out is not usually going to work no matter what you try due to the Copy Protection stuff in HDMI. If the current input is Copy Protected HDMI then the Anthem has to mute its "processed" Component video outputs. See Section 2.1 of the Manual.


Since you only discuss Component output, I'm assuming you are running Component video to your display. If that's not correct, please tell me.


Your display should be connected to the "Main" Component video outputs on the back of the Anthem -- the ones to the top of the unit, in the white colored Component Out area -- not to the "Main or Zone 2" Component video outputs just below them.


****> IMPORTANT: Please note that some older HDMI source devices turn off their Component outputs if an HDMI cable is plugged into them -- even if you are not actually using that HDMI connection. Just in case, be sure to unplug the HDMI cable from the back of the Dish box until we get your Component video working.


----------



## adidadi

Are there any Statement D2 sound quality reviews anywhere? I get the video quality rocks, I just don't hear too much about sound quality and comparisons to other high end av processors. Any links would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

aidadi,

The audio section of the D2 is a Statement D1. The only significant difference is the ability to accept high bandwidth, multi-channel PCM input over HDMI connections in the D2. As with the D1, all digital audio inputs in the D2 are internally upsampled to 192Khz prior to processing.


Given the common audio section between them, you'll probably have more luck finding reviews on the audio quality of the D1.

--Bob


----------



## alaskaharmon

Hi to all- Brand new to the forum. I must say it is a bit overwhelming! I tried to do some search attempts regarding my question, but couldnt find the exact info after a couple of days of searching. Here is my question-

9/22/07

Hello from Alaska. I am setting up a HT. My room dimensions are 12.8W by 19L. I will be using the Epson Power Lite Cinema 1080p pro, the Anthem AVM- 50, and a stewart 2.35.1 (111W, 120.75 diagonal screen), and a lens from Panamorph. My question is, wanting the very best picture, will the Anthem do an excellent job of upscaling 16X9 images to the 2.35.1 screen, or should I painfully drop another 3 grand to have the lens move out of the way? It is a dedicated room without light pollution, but I am fearful that this LCD projector will have its picture quality negatively affected by the panamorphic lens being left in place. Most specifically brightness and clarity. IS the imaging processesor in the Anthem avm- 50 enough? If not would it make a difference to go up to the anthem D2 (which i think the difference is 2 DSPs) or should I just spend the money on the moving lens? I haven't purchased any of the items yet so any advice would be helpful. Thanks very much.

Jason Harmon


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidadi* /forum/post/11697993
> 
> 
> Are there any Statement D2 sound quality reviews anywhere? I get the video quality rocks, I just don't hear too much about sound quality and comparisons to other high end av processors. Any links would be appreciated. Thanks.



FWIW, in my opinion, the sound quality of the D2 is even more impressive than it's video capabilities.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ALASKAHARMON,

The D2 and AVM-50 have identical video processing.


The video solution in the D2 and AVM-50 can stretch 2.35 content vertically to fill a 16:9 output shape. The idea, of course is to then have a special lens in the projector that widens the image out again to fill a 2.35 screen. The advantage is that the process of scaling the image this way may produce improved vertical resolution since the lines at the top and bottom of the 16:9 output signal which would otherwise just be Letter Box bars are actually used to hold image content.


But the video solution can *NOT* "squeeze" 16:9 content left to right so that the same lens will result in an image that fills the 2.35 screen top to bottom and shows the image without distortion (by leaving part of the left and right sides of the screen unfilled so that the lit part of the screen is 16:9).


There are two workarounds. In the D2 or AVM-50, you can crop the 16:9 content down to 2.35 (and stretch what's left vertically) which means your special lens will fill the screen left to right, and the image will not be distorted, but will also mean that you lose some of the 16:9 image off the top and bottom of the screen.


Or you can swap out the special lens for a "normal" lens when viewing 16:9 content.


A poster here asked Anthem about 2 months back to add "squeezing" of 16:9 content to the list of features for a future software upgrade, and Anthem's response was that they did not expect they would be doing that for the very good reason that squeezing the 16:9 content must, by its very nature, discard horizontal image resolution. Meaning you won't get as good a 16:9 result as you would get if you left the image alone and switched to the "normal" lens.


But if you, too, would like the "squeezing" feature, then you should probably send an email to Anthem tech support to let them know.


-------------------------------------------


There are posts to be found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread that discuss how to set Custom Cropping and Anamorphic Scaling to stretch 2.35 content vertically for use with your special lens. Check out the links in the "Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling" section of links.

--Bob


----------



## alaskaharmon

Thanks! It sounds like if i want "perfect" I need to get the lens to come and go as i watch movies in the 16x9 vs the larger epic format. On a screen that is 111 inches wide any idea on how much one would lose on the top and bottom of "over projecting" a 16x9 film through the lens onto the 2.35.1 screen? I would think that it would be a lot of loss. It seems that more and more films are coming out in the 2.35.1 format and they are the films that i usually want to see in the way they were intended to be viewed. Thank you for your response, it is really helpful.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alaskaharmon* /forum/post/11698229
> 
> 
> Thanks! It sounds like if i want "perfect" I need to get the lens to come and go as i watch movies in the 16x9 vs the larger epic format. On a screen that is 111 inches wide any idea on how much one would lose on the top and bottom of "over projecting" a 16x9 film through the lens onto the 2.35.1 screen? I would think that it would be a lot of loss. It seems that more and more films are coming out in the 2.35.1 format and they are the films that i usually want to see in the way they were intended to be viewed. Thank you for your response, it is really helpful.



First off, understand that lots of films referred to as 2.35 actually have aspect ratios that are only NEAR 2.35:1.


2.20:1, 2.40:1, and 2.55:1 are also common. Older Cinemascope pictures can be even wider. So a "perfect" 2.35:1 setup is only "perfect" for a film which is truly 2.35:1. Otherwise it is close but you'll still have a small amount of letter or pillar boxing.


Similarly, you will find films that purport to be 16:9 = 1.78:1, but are actually 1.66:1 or 1.85:1. On most TVs the difference is lost in the overscan region beyond the edge of the screen. But in a carefully setup home theater you won't have overscan and so you will see tiny letter or pillar box bars.


------------------------------------------------------


As to how much of a 16:9 image would be lost off the top and bottom by cropping it down to 2.35, here's a post where I did the math the last time this discussion came up in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post11160850 


The simple answer is that you would lose about 12% off the top and 12% off the bottom of the 16:9 image.


Or you could open up the crop a bit to compromise by losing less of the image top and bottom in exchange for a little distortion of the result (circles look like wide ovals).

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

Need to some help PLEASE!!


I am trying to run my Denon 3910 via HDMI to the D2, when I plug it in, the 3910 freezes up. If I disconnect the HDMI, and reset the unit all is okay.


What I am trying to display the set up menu to my TV via the D2.


Any ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/11698597
> 
> 
> Need to some help PLEASE!!
> 
> 
> I am trying to run my Denon 3910 via HDMI to the D2, when I plug it in, the 3910 freezes up. If I disconnect the HDMI, and reset the unit all is okay.
> 
> 
> What I am trying to display the set up menu to my TV via the D2.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



What software version in the D2?


And do you have Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = No set for that input in the D2?


Also, get a flashlight and check both ends of the HDMI cable and both HDMI sockets for signs of pin damage. Presuming you find no damage, try a different HDMI cable ANYWAY. If you DO find damage, don't just plug in another cable as you may damage the new cable.


Finally, try HDMI from the Denon to your display directly to confirm the HDMI output of the Denon is properly enabled and working.

--Bob


----------



## GabGuy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11697451
> 
> 
> .....
> 
> 
> If you have good video at 720p but not at 1080i or 1080p then you have, indeed been bitten by the 1080i/1080p input bug, and the fix is to get newer firmware from Anthem tech support. You can leave things set up at 720p until you get the new firmware.
> 
> 
> If you DO NOT have good video at 720p then something else is wrong and we need to analyse this further.
> 
> 
> ========================================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD THE IMPORTANT NOTE on removing the HDMI cable towards the top of this reply.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks so much for your help! I followed your steps. When I set the video output on the Anthem to 720p I get the menus on my TV screen. However, when I connected my Dish receiver directly to the TV in order to set its output to 720p, at 720p the screen goes blue and after a few seconds it reverts to 1080i, and I get the picture back. I switched the Anthem's selected input to my HD DVD player and as you predicted, I got good video at 480i, 480p, and 720p, and at 1080i I got the BSOD. I know it was running through the processor because I had the picture adjustments from the processor by holding down the 7 button.


So, I get good video at 720p or lower, nothing at all with 1080i and my TV can't read 720p from my sat receiver. Why would it display 720p menus from the Anthem and not a 720p picture from the Dish? FYI I have a 1080i Mitsubishi CRT HDTV and a Dish 622.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GabGuy* /forum/post/11699228
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for your help! I followed your steps. When I set the video output on the Anthem to 720p I get the menus on my TV screen. However, when I connected my Dish receiver directly to the TV in order to set its output to 720p, at 720p the screen goes blue and after a few seconds it reverts to 1080i, and I get the picture back. I switched the Anthem's selected input to my HD DVD player and as you predicted, I got good video at 480i, 480p, and 720p, and at 1080i I got the BSOD. I know it was running through the processor because I had the picture adjustments from the processor by holding down the 7 button.
> 
> 
> So, I get good video at 720p or lower, nothing at all with 1080i and my TV can't read 720p from my sat receiver. Why would it display 720p menus from the Anthem and not a 720p picture from the Dish? FYI I have a 1080i Mitsubishi CRT HDTV and a Dish 622.



It does sound like you have the 1080i/1080p bug.


Figuring out why it works sometimes and fails at others is tough, since the bug, once triggered, appears to affect ALL inputs -- even at resolutions that worked before the bug is triggered. Only power cycling the Anthem clears things -- until the bug gets triggered again.


Your best bet is to get the newer firmware.


You may still have something else going on here, but its going to be hard to figure that out until after you eliminate the 1080i/1080p issue.


------------------------------------------------------


I'm not sure why your direct connection to the TV was acting that way. I suspect your Dish box is not happy with the connection handshake it is getting from the TV at 720p. Some CRT HDTV's don't really like 720p.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11698723
> 
> 
> What software version in the D2?
> 
> 
> And do you have Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = No set for that input in the D2?
> 
> 
> Also, get a flashlight and check both ends of the HDMI cable and both HDMI sockets for signs of pin damage. Presuming you find no damage, try a different HDMI cable ANYWAY. If you DO find damage, don't just plug in another cable as you may damage the new cable.
> 
> 
> Finally, try HDMI from the Denon to your display directly to confirm the HDMI output of the Denon is properly enabled and working.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


I am using 1.12 that I got from Nick about a month ago. The pins look good, used another cable and still freezing up.


I have hooked the 3910 to the TV and everything was good.


The repeater in the Source set up is in off.


Any other ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/11699457
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I am using 1.12 that I got from Nick about a month ago. The pins look good, used another cable and still freezing up.
> 
> 
> I have hooked the 3910 to the TV and everything was good.
> 
> 
> The repeater in the Source set up is in off.
> 
> 
> Any other ideas?



Not really, no.


Clearly there is something going on during the handshake that the 3910 doesn't like.


Last year, Anthem had some sources freeze up because the Anthem was telling the source, during the handshake, that it was willing to accept more options as input than the source was expecting to be offered (i.e., it was poor programming in the source device software that was the issue). But I thought they were well past that issue by now.


Is there a firmware update for your 3910 that you haven't applied yet?


--------------------


Also try setting the Denon to 480p output. That's the simplest HDMI output format for both source and Anthem.


--------------------


Other than that, the only thing I can suggest is giving Anthem tech support a call.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/10246231
> 
> 
> Bob, you summed that up absolutely beautifully!



So here's my question, which probably has already been answered:


When you're receiving Linear PCM 5.1 uncompressed from a Blu-ray player and outputting to a 7.1 setup, what is the consensus favorite audio format to use on the D2? It seems as though PLIIx is widely used - is that better than DDEX? How about the Anthem proprietary formats?


Thanks,


David


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/11703045
> 
> 
> So here's my question, which probably has already been answered:
> 
> 
> When you're receiving Linear PCM 5.1 uncompressed from a Blu-ray player and outputting to a 7.1 setup, what is the consensus favorite audio format to use on the D2? It seems as though PLIIx is widely used - is that better than DDEX? How about the Anthem proprietary formats?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David



Going through the setup on my D2 last night, I was wondering the same thing. I'll experiment with a few different ones, but, I don't know of an easy way to test this with movie tracks other than watching 5 or 6 different scenes over and over trying to decide.










We did watch MI:III last night. The kids really enjoy the quality of the picture and sound. My oldest even commented on how much he liked the new system.







Since I didn't do A/B tests between what I had before and what I have now, I can't easily say which is better. The D2 is certainly as good as everything I had before and, replacing 4 components, simpler to connect and operate.


----------



## Tim Winders

Components isn't the right word. Perhaps, pieces of equipment? As I am including the Xantech IR receiver/transmitter in that count of 4.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11700086
> 
> 
> Not really, no.
> 
> 
> Clearly there is something going on during the handshake that the 3910 doesn't like.
> 
> 
> Last year, Anthem had some sources freeze up because the Anthem was telling the source, during the handshake, that it was willing to accept more options as input than the source was expecting to be offered (i.e., it was poor programming in the source device software that was the issue). But I thought they were well past that issue by now.
> 
> 
> Is there a firmware update for your 3910 that you haven't applied yet?
> 
> 
> --------------------
> 
> 
> Also try setting the Denon to 480p output. That's the simplest HDMI output format for both source and Anthem.
> 
> 
> --------------------
> 
> 
> Other than that, the only thing I can suggest is giving Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> --Bob




Bob,


Thank you very much for your help. I ran a firmware update on the 3910 and it know works.


My wife told me the HDMI stopped working when I did the last firmware to the D2, guess I didn't notice.


Thanks again for your time Bob.


Michael


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/11703045
> 
> 
> So here's my question, which probably has already been answered:
> 
> 
> When you're receiving Linear PCM 5.1 uncompressed from a Blu-ray player and outputting to a 7.1 setup, what is the consensus favorite audio format to use on the D2? It seems as though PLIIx is widely used - is that better than DDEX? How about the Anthem proprietary formats?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David



Dolby Digital EX is a format... the center surround is matrixed into the stereo surround channels... this provides compatibility for 5.1 and 6.1 systems.


Dolby Pro Logic IIx is a decoding algorithm. It creates three or four surround channels from mono or stereo surround channels, EX encoded or not.


----------



## flash2003

I have had my D2 for six months and am really enjoying it







, but it has a few issues for which I would like some input. System is a Simaudio Orbiter DVD player connected to the D2 (Version 1.11) via component feeding a 480i signal. The D2 is connected to a Sharp XVZ-3000 projector via HDMI cable with the D2 outputting 720p/60.


Issue #1:

I am seeing a blue screen periodically but it only lasts for a second. It usually happens at the beginning of a DVD when the menus change, or sometimes (intermittently) during the movie, when the scene changes. I also tried connecting the D2 to the projector via component cable, but this has not solved my problem.


Issue #2:

The D2 sometimes shuts itself off a few seconds after powerup; after this initial shutoff and my immediate repowering of the unit, it never spontaneously shuts off again. This happens approximately one out of every four times that the unit is powered up. This spontaneous shutdown problem never happens again after the D2 has warmed up.


Has anyone experienced these issues, and how did you address them? Thanks in advance for any advice.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flash2003* /forum/post/11703544
> 
> 
> I have had my D2 for six months and am really enjoying it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but it has a few issues for which I would like some input. System is a Simaudio Orbiter DVD player connected to the D2 (Version 1.11) via component feeding a 480i signal. The D2 is connected to a Sharp XVZ-3000 projector via HDMI cable with the D2 outputting 720p/60.
> 
> 
> Issue #1:
> 
> I am seeing a blue screen periodically but it only lasts for a second. It usually happens at the beginning of a DVD when the menus change, or sometimes (intermittently) during the movie, when the scene changes. I also tried connecting the D2 to the projector via component cable, but this has not solved my problem.
> 
> 
> Issue #2:
> 
> The D2 sometimes shuts itself off a few seconds after powerup; after this initial shutoff and my immediate repowering of the unit, it never spontaneously shuts off again. This happens approximately one out of every four times that the unit is powered up. This spontaneous shutdown problem never happens again after the D2 has warmed up.
> 
> 
> Has anyone experienced these issues, and how did you address them? Thanks in advance for any advice.



The D2 has some issues with COMPONENT 480i input that were fixed in V1.11g. Blue screen was not typically reported. It was more an image quality thing -- the defect looks like de-interlacing problems but is really something else.


To tell if you have been bitten by this bug, play the Component 480i source and, while it is playing, go to Video Source Adjust / Info and look at what it says for the video input resolution. If it says something like 1440x480i instead of the correct 720x480i then you have this problem. Contact Anthem tech support and they'll email you new D2 software to install.


EDITED TO ADD: Another good test is to switch (temporarily) to Component 480p input. If the problem goes away then you have the Componen 480i input bug. You can use 480p as a workaround until you get the new firmware.


If new firmware doesn't fix your occasional blue screen, contact Anthem tech support again. There may be a hardware fault.


----------------------------------------


We've had a few reports of spontaneous power off during a cold start, but I don't think we've had enough feedback from the folks reporting to be sure whether this is a software problem or a hardware problem in their unit. Anthem tech support more than likely has a better handle on this. So tell them about this problem as well, and if they don't know it to be a problem fixed in new software they may have you do some diagnostic steps to see if your unit has a hardware fault.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/11703263
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for your help. I ran a firmware update on the 3910 and it know works.
> 
> 
> My wife told me the HDMI stopped working when I did the last firmware to the D2, guess I didn't notice.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your time Bob.
> 
> 
> Michael



That's good to know. Thanks for the follow-up report.


Just in case we have any other Denon 3910 users here, what was the version number of the new Denon 3910 firmware that worked for you?

--Bob


----------



## dseliger

I'm still seeing Issue #2 on my D2 as well, are you using a power conditioner? Anthem told me to unplug from that and plug it straight into the wall and see if i still have the issue.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flash2003* /forum/post/11703544
> 
> 
> I have had my D2 for six months and am really enjoying it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but it has a few issues for which I would like some input. System is a Simaudio Orbiter DVD player connected to the D2 (Version 1.11) via component feeding a 480i signal. The D2 is connected to a Sharp XVZ-3000 projector via HDMI cable with the D2 outputting 720p/60.
> 
> 
> Issue #1:
> 
> I am seeing a blue screen periodically but it only lasts for a second. It usually happens at the beginning of a DVD when the menus change, or sometimes (intermittently) during the movie, when the scene changes. I also tried connecting the D2 to the projector via component cable, but this has not solved my problem.
> 
> 
> Issue #2:
> 
> The D2 sometimes shuts itself off a few seconds after powerup; after this initial shutoff and my immediate repowering of the unit, it never spontaneously shuts off again. This happens approximately one out of every four times that the unit is powered up. This spontaneous shutdown problem never happens again after the D2 has warmed up.
> 
> 
> Has anyone experienced these issues, and how did you address them? Thanks in advance for any advice.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/11703045
> 
> 
> So here's my question, which probably has already been answered:
> 
> 
> When you're receiving Linear PCM 5.1 uncompressed from a Blu-ray player and outputting to a 7.1 setup, what is the consensus favorite audio format to use on the D2? It seems as though PLIIx is widely used - is that better than DDEX? How about the Anthem proprietary formats?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David



I don't think there is a consensus. Try the various options and see what you like.


One thing that seems clear is that if the movie you are playing does not ALREADY have re-equalization applied, then the THX re-equalization post processing is a good thing. Read the fine print on the movie. Ones that don't need THX re-equalization sometimes say so. The Anthem lets you engage the THX re-equalization with or without the rest of the THX post processing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/11703972
> 
> 
> I'm still seeing Issue #2 on my D2 as well, are you using a power conditioner? Anthem told me to unplug from that and plug it straight into the wall and see if i still have the issue.



I would guess they are thinking the power conditioner may not have enough capacity to handle the draw from the D2's power supply when it is woken up cold -- particularly since other equipment is likely also making significant power demands at that point.


Did plugging directly into the wall cure your power downs?

--Bob


----------



## dseliger

I havent been able to test it a lot since then, because it doesnt do it once its warmed up. I'll probably test it all this week and see.


The strange thing is, it powers up, and you actually get the "Powering Down" message so its not like it just shuts off totally due to lack of power.


----------



## flash2003

Bob:



> Quote:
> The D2 has some issues with COMPONENT 480i input that were fixed in V1.11g. Blue screen was not typically reported. It was more an image quality thing -- the defect looks like de-interlacing problems but is really something else.
> 
> 
> To tell if you have been bitten by this bug, play the Component 480i source and, while it is playing, go to Video Source Adjust / Info and look at what it says for the video input resolution. If it says something like 1440x480i instead of the correct 720x480i then you have this problem.



I checked Video Source Adjust/Info, and it shows as 720 x 480i. I kept watching the screen while the DVD was playing and I noticed that the input went to 0 X 0 when the blue screen appeared. It then returned to 720 x 480i when the picture reappeared.



> Quote:
> EDITED TO ADD: Another good test is to switch (temporarily) to Component 480p input. If the problem goes away then you have the Componen 480i input bug. You can use 480p as a workaround until you get the new firmware.



It does exactly the same thing in 480p.



> Quote:
> We've had a few reports of spontaneous power off during a cold start, but I don't think we've had enough feedback from the folks reporting to be sure whether this is a software problem or a hardware problem in their unit. Anthem tech support more than likely has a better handle on this. So tell them about this problem as well, and if they don't know it to be a problem fixed in new software they may have you do some diagnostic steps to see if your unit has a hardware fault.
> 
> --Bob



The D2 is connected to a Panamax 5100 surge protector/line conditioner. I am using it because the power grid in my area is very unstable, with frequent power outages. I will try plugging the D2 directly into the wall outlet to see if this solves the problem, although if it does, I have another problem.










Thanks for your help.


----------



## flash2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/11703972
> 
> 
> I'm still seeing Issue #2 on my D2 as well, are you using a power conditioner? Anthem told me to unplug from that and plug it straight into the wall and see if i still have the issue.




Thanks for your reply. Yes, I am using a power conditioner. Please see my reply to Bob Pariseau for the details. I will post if I find a solution.


----------



## flash2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/11704202
> 
> 
> I havent been able to test it a lot since then, because it doesnt do it once its warmed up. I'll probably test it all this week and see.
> 
> 
> The strange thing is, it powers up, and you actually get the "Powering Down" message so its not like it just shuts off totally due to lack of power.



I am not getting the "powering down" message before the D2 shuts off. My D2 shuts off immediately after I hear the "thunk" of the relay. I will have to do some more testing withought my power conditioner in the circuit. Maybe I will try a simple surge protector...


----------



## dseliger

Just out of curiosity, people that are not having any problems...what Power Conditionter are you using?


I'm using a Monster Signature Series 5100 UHC20A (full 20A version).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't use a power conditioner. I use an APC brand UPS (battery backup) that doubles as a surge protector and lets the unit ride through any power glitches, but the APC unit doesn't try to condition the power beyond providing the battery backup. My DVR runs off that as well. Primarily this avoids the nuisance of having to wait for things to reboot if there's a power glitch.


I'm still on the original V1.11 software and have had no such power-down problems with my D2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flash2003* /forum/post/11704305
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I checked Video Source Adjust/Info, and it shows as 720 x 480i. I kept watching the screen while the DVD was playing and I noticed that the input went to 0 X 0 when the blue screen appeared. It then returned to 720 x 480i when the picture reappeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It does exactly the same thing in 480p.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The D2 is connected to a Panamax 5100 surge protector/line conditioner. I am using it because the power grid in my area is very unstable, with frequent power outages. I will try plugging the D2 directly into the wall outlet to see if this solves the problem, although if it does, I have another problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help.



Well I suppose you DVD player may be having some problems of its own. If you can hook it directly to a TV via its component outputs you'll be able to check this. If the problem doesn't show up except when running through the Anthem, then you'll need to call Anthem tech support.


Also, double check that your Component cables are fully inserted in their sockets. A weak signal will make it harder for the Anthem to lock on to the incoming Component video signal.

--Bob


----------



## flash2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11704785
> 
> 
> Well I suppose you DVD player may be having some problems of its own. If you can hook it directly to a TV via its component outputs you'll be able to check this. If the problem doesn't show up except when running through the Anthem, then you'll need to call Anthem tech support.
> 
> 
> Also, double check that your Component cables are fully inserted in their sockets. A weak signal will make it harder for the Anthem to lock on to the incoming Component video signal.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. I'll try your suggestion re: the TV hookup next, and see if it helps (the component cable was properly connected).


----------



## earwit

Issue #2:

The D2 sometimes shuts itself off a few seconds after powerup; after this initial shutoff and my immediate repowering of the unit, it never spontaneously shuts off again. This happens approximately one out of every four times that the unit is powered up. This spontaneous shutdown problem never happens again after the D2 has warmed up.


Has anyone experienced these issues, and how did you address them? Thanks in advance for any advice.



I used to have the same problem with my D2, I've learned when I power up

the unit I hold down the main power button 2 to 3 seconds, and since then

have never had the problem of the D2 shuting off after intial power up..

If I hold the power button for a split second, it's likely to power off.


Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *earwit* /forum/post/11705455
> 
> 
> Issue #2:
> 
> The D2 sometimes shuts itself off a few seconds after powerup; after this initial shutoff and my immediate repowering of the unit, it never spontaneously shuts off again. This happens approximately one out of every four times that the unit is powered up. This spontaneous shutdown problem never happens again after the D2 has warmed up.
> 
> 
> Has anyone experienced these issues, and how did you address them? Thanks in advance for any advice.
> 
> 
> 
> I used to have the same problem with my D2, I've learned when I power up
> 
> the unit I hold down the main power button 2 to 3 seconds, and since then
> 
> have never had the problem of the D2 shuting off after intial power up..
> 
> If I hold the power button for a split second, it's likely to power off.
> 
> 
> Bob



That's interesting! Are you talking about the Main power button on the remote or on the front panel? Are you using the Anthem remote or some other, programmable remote? If you are using the Anthem remote, have you tried the second remote that came with your Anthem to see if it does the same thing?


I wonder if there is a problem with the cold unit misreading a remote control code as power down instead of power up? I.e., this could merely be a remote control problem rather than something more serious with power supply or whatever.


Now these two codes are different (i.e., two different buttons on the remote each producing a unique code, rather than a single power toggle button/code), but if this is what's going on then there are some things to try.


The remote probably sends the Power On code more than once for each press of the button (this is typical for remotes), and if a trailing one of those is getting mis-read as Power Off, then the Anthem may queue it up and execute it just after it powers on! Or the remote itself could simply be faulty. The remotes are electronic devices too, and some small percentage of them will fail.


So for example, you could go into Setup / Triggers & IR & RS232 and make sure the internal IR sensors for the REAR IR control ports are turned off. There are situations where the light from a remote can penetrate the vents of the chassis and be picked up, perhaps incorrectly, by those internal sensors. As the unit warms up, those sensors will see the heat of the unit itself and be less sensitive to the infrared light from a remote.


If you are using a programmable remote, you could set the remote to only send the Power On code once per press of the button. If it is getting misread you might have to press the power on more than once, but at least it wouldn't power right back down on you.


If you are using the Anthem remote, try the OTHER Anthem remote, or try powering up using the front panel button to see if a momentary press works reliably.


If anyone has success with these suggestions, please do post your results here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flash2003* /forum/post/11705090
> 
> 
> Thanks. I'll try your suggestion re: the TV hookup next, and see if it helps (the component cable was properly connected).



You said you typically get the blue screen going in and out of menus on the DVD player -- which I presume means you are doing remote control commands to the DVD player


Is there any chance the Anthem is seeing these commands itself and doing something like changing inputs? If you are using a programmable remote, it is possible it is not programmed correctly. Or there could be a remote control code set conflict (some DVD remote commands for your player also match Anthem remote commands). To test this, shield the Anthem so that it can not see the remote control commands intended for the DVD player and then do the DVD commands to enter and leave menus. Do you still get the blue screen?


If not, then try the reverse. Shield the DVD player and point the remote at the Anthem and do *DVD COMMANDS* while the DVD is playing. The Anthem should ignore those commands and nothing should happen since the DVD player isn't seeing them either. Is that what you get, or is the Anthem unexpectedly responding in some fashion?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I had this problem with my AVM50 when I would press the button on the unit not the remote, but held it too long. It would come on and then turn off. Since I experienced this I now press the power button quickly and don't hold it. Hasn't powered off since.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/11705905
> 
> 
> I had this problem with my AVM50 when I would press the button on the unit not the remote, but held it too long. It would come on and then turn off. Since I experienced this I now press the power button quickly and don't hold it. Hasn't powered off since.



That makes sense, I think.


Unlike on the remote, the Main power button on the front panel is a toggle. Press it once to turn on, and press it again to turn off. I suspect if you press and hold it gets treated as two presses.


But the power on button on the remote is distinct from the power off button, so it SHOULDN'T be queueing up a power off.


---------------------------------------------------


Folks, I like this idea a lot. I think there is an excellent chance that the rapid power downs are due to a power-off command getting mistakenly queued up somehow. This strikes me as much more likely than that some flaw in the power supply would force a shutdown like this.


My key suspect now would be the internal IR sensors for the rear panel IR control ports since the problem seems to be associated with powering up a cold unit.


If we can show this is what's happening, Anthem may be able to modify the power up sequence a bit to be less likely to queue up an erroneous power down command.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flash2003* /forum/post/11705090
> 
> 
> Thanks. I'll try your suggestion re: the TV hookup next, and see if it helps (the component cable was properly connected).



I had two other ideas worth checking. It is likely your player shuts off the video momentarily as it goes in and out of menus. Anything which slows down how the Anthem locks on to the new video once it starts up again could result in a short blue screen. And the prime suspect in such a delay would be the Anthem's Frame Lock feature.


So while viewing your DVD input, go to Video Source Adjust / Output scroll down to Frame Lock and insure Frame Lock = OFF is set for that input.


[Frame Lock should be OFF for ALL your inputs unless you are experimenting with 1080p/24Hz film based content on some input.]


----------------------------------------------


It is also possible your player is putting out an "unusual" analog Component video signal -- particularly when it is generating the graphics for its menus. This may be confusing the video digitizer in the Anthem. Some minor adjustments in Video Source Adjust / Picture / Video ADC might possibly help the Anthem to sync up faster.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/11703456
> 
> 
> Dolby Digital EX is a format... the center surround is matrixed into the stereo surround channels... this provides compatibility for 5.1 and 6.1 systems.
> 
> 
> Dolby Pro Logic IIx is a decoding algorithm. It creates three or four surround channels from mono or stereo surround channels, EX encoded or not.



FilmMixer,


I think I understand your response, but the question still remains, since the D2 allows you to select either PLIIx or DDEX for 5.1 PCM source material - what is the consensus best choice?


----------



## flash2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11706121
> 
> 
> So while viewing your DVD input, go to Video Source Adjust / Output scroll down to Frame Lock and insure Frame Lock = OFF is set for that input.
> 
> 
> Frame Lock should be OFF for ALL your inputs unless you are experimenting with 1080p/24Hz film based content on some input.
> 
> --Bob



The frame-lock is (and was) set to OFF.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11706121
> 
> 
> It is also possible your player is putting out an "unusual" analog Component video signal -- particularly when it is generating the graphics for its menus. This may be confusing the video digitizer in the Anthem. Some minor adjustments in Video Source Adjust / Picture / Video ADC might possibly help the Anthem to sync up faster.
> 
> --Bob



Let me clarify exactly when I see the blue screen(s). I see the blue screen mainly at the beginning of DVDs when the film studio's initial identification (ID) sequence (e.g., MGM's roaring lion) is presented; the sequence goes something like this (I'm not sure if this is exact since it is from memory and varies with the DVD):


1. DVD starts playing

2. Blue screen flashes for an instant and disappears

3. The film studio's ID sequence is presented

4. Blue screen flashes again for a second

5. The movie trailers play

6. Blue Screen flashes for a second

7. The main menu appears


In my case, I don't believe my problem is related to the remote control, but is instead a synching issue (as you suggested) because the appearance of the blue screen is not generally associated with pressing the buttons on the remote. The blue screen is not associated with my selecting something from the menu, but shows up when the menu initially appears onscreen (after the film studio's ID sequence).


Sometimes, the blue screen appears DURING the movie, when a scene fades and another begins (may be a chapter change??). Some DVDs are more problematic than others. For example, I just watched a 2006 remastered James Bond DVD, and the blue screen did not make an appearance.


One other thing I am going to try is to swap out the component cable. The cable is a 10-foot long Wireworld Ultraviolet III+, but it is quite old (7 years) and may have some internal corrosion.


I'll keep you posted.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11703118
> 
> 
> We did watch MI:III last night. The kids really enjoy the quality of the picture and sound. My oldest even commented on how much he liked the new system.



Tom - what format were you using last night?


----------



## dseliger

I just tried turning the D2 on before ANYTHING else in my rack and it didnt power off...


I usually turn the projector on first (the amps dont turn on until the D2 triggers them)


Give that a shot and see, i'll be testing some more during them week when i know its cooled down.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/11707102
> 
> 
> FilmMixer,
> 
> 
> I think I understand your response, but the question still remains, since the D2 allows you to select either PLIIx or DDEX for 5.1 PCM source material - what is the consensus best choice?



In a 7.1 setup? PLIIx.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/11707323
> 
> 
> Tom - what format were you using last night?



I think it was the Ultra2 THX setting.


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/11704492
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity, people that are not having any problems...what Power Conditionter are you using?
> 
> 
> I'm using a Monster Signature Series 5100 UHC20A (full 20A version).



This is what I use. I have my entire HT plugged into it including 4 Crown 300WPC (x2) Amps. It's on a dedicated 20 Amp circuit.
http://www.furmansound.com/product.p...id=ELITE-20PFi


----------



## dseliger

Thats a nice unit, did it come with rackmount ears?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/11691205
> 
> 
> Now that the Canadian $ is at par with the American $, why is it that the upgrade cost 200$ for Canadians ? Especially when anthem is a Canadian cie ?



Most of the manufacturers adjust their price a few times per year not a weekly/daily basis.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/11698126
> 
> 
> FWIW, in my opinion, the sound quality of the D2 is even more impressive than it's video capabilities.



Dead on. The audio is amazing.


----------



## TREVLAN

Hello again.


OK I'm am very close to getting the AVM50


But a few more questions if I may.


-If my TV is ISF'd will I have to "redo" anything, Im asking because my set was configured for each input [PS3/ denon 2910 via HDMI] and [cablebox component] and [360 compontent] 360 and cable are a little different due to brightness.

So now all inputs will go out the AVM50 with one HDMI to one input in the TV so thats Why I ask.

So do I need to ISF the tv again or leave the tv as is and isf the avm50?


-does anyone have cable delay times? What I mean is hooked up Via hdmi the HD channels take from 5-30secs to load? [had this issue with the denon 4308]


- how close does the Amp have to be to the AVM50?


-pva5 vs mca50 using studio20 for L/R CC590 for center and ADP390 for surround , PS1200 sub in a 5.1 setup , whould I be OK with the pva5 or would it be best to go for the mca?


Thx in advanced "BOB" and whom ever else answers...lol I say Bob because he is always doing most of the replies.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11715103
> 
> 
> If my TV is ISF'd will I have to "redo" anything, Im asking because my set was configured for each input [PS3/ denon 2910 via HDMI] and [cablebox component] and [360 compontent] 360 and cable are a little different due to brightness.
> 
> So now all inputs will go out the AVM50 with one HDMI to one input in the TV so thats Why I ask.
> 
> So do I need to ISF the tv again or leave the tv as is and isf the avm50?



Technically, yes. As your output to your TV will now be the AVM50, you will need to recalibrate the set for the output from the AVM50 to the specific input on the TV. This will be calibrated using the output from the AVM50 scaler and no other input. You will then calibrate each source component making changes on the input to the AVM50 as necessary for each input.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11715103
> 
> 
> how close does the Amp have to be to the AVM50?



I have two different AMPs. One is in the same rack as my D2, I'm using 2M cables. The other is across the room connected via 75' balanced cables. If your amp is more than 10-15', you probably want to use balanced connections if possible. Otherwise, distance shouldn't matter.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11715103
> 
> 
> Thx in advanced "BOB" and whom ever else answers...lol I say Bob because he is always doing most of the replies.



I'm not Bob, and so I've only answered the questions I felt I could handle. I'm sure someone else will chime in with more info.










=== Tim


----------



## earwit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11705848
> 
> 
> That's interesting! Are you talking about the Main power button on the remote or on the front panel? Are you using the Anthem remote or some other, programmable remote? If you are using the Anthem remote, have you tried the second remote that came with your Anthem to see if it does the same thing?
> 
> 
> I wonder if there is a problem with the cold unit misreading a remote control code as power down instead of power up? I.e., this could merely be a remote control problem rather than something more serious with power supply or whatever.
> 
> 
> Now these two codes are different (i.e., two different buttons on the remote each producing a unique code, rather than a single power toggle button/code), but if this is what's going on then there are some things to try.
> 
> 
> The remote probably sends the Power On code more than once for each press of the button (this is typical for remotes), and if a trailing one of those is getting mis-read as Power Off, then the Anthem may queue it up and execute it just after it powers on! Or the remote itself could simply be faulty. The remotes are electronic devices too, and some small percentage of them will fail.
> 
> 
> So for example, you could go into Setup / Triggers & IR & RS232 and make sure the internal IR sensors for the REAR IR control ports are turned off. There are situations where the light from a remote can penetrate the vents of the chassis and be picked up, perhaps incorrectly, by those internal sensors. As the unit warms up, those sensors will see the heat of the unit itself and be less sensitive to the infrared light from a remote.
> 
> 
> If you are using a programmable remote, you could set the remote to only send the Power On code once per press of the button. If it is getting misread you might have to press the power on more than once, but at least it wouldn't power right back down on you.
> 
> 
> If you are using the Anthem remote, try the OTHER Anthem remote, or try powering up using the front panel button to see if a momentary press works reliably.
> 
> 
> If anyone has success with these suggestions, please do post your results here.
> 
> --Bob



In my case I usally power up the D2 by pressing the power switch on the

front panel..Again I have found if I hold it several seconds, powers up fine,

if I hold it down for a moment the unit will likely power down


Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *earwit* /forum/post/11715565
> 
> 
> In my case I usally power up the D2 by pressing the power switch on the
> 
> front panel..Again I have found if I hold it several seconds, powers up fine,
> 
> if I hold it down for a moment the unit will likely power down
> 
> 
> Bob



I can't duplicate this on my unit. I tried holding down the power button for 3, 5 and 10 seconds, each time it powers up correctly. If I press the button, release and press again, it immediately powers down.


I'm not sure what to conclude from this...


=== Tim


----------



## TREVLAN

Thanks Tim , I have the sxrd xbr2 60" and it was ISF'd but I understand what you are saying now.

My other main question would be the amp o use.




TREVLAN said:


> Hello again.
> 
> 
> OK I'm am very close to getting the AVM50
> 
> 
> But a few more questions if I may.
> 
> 
> -If my TV is ISF'd will I have to "redo" anything, Im asking because my set was configured for each input [PS3/ denon 2910 via HDMI] and [cablebox component] and [360 compontent] 360 and cable are a little different due to brightness.
> 
> So now all inputs will go out the AVM50 with one HDMI to one input in the TV so thats Why I ask.
> 
> So do I need to ISF the tv again or leave the tv as is and isf the avm50?
> 
> 
> -does anyone have cable delay times? What I mean is hooked up Via hdmi the HD channels take from 5-30secs to load? [had this issue with the denon 4308]
> 
> 
> 
> -pva5 vs mca50 using studio20 for L/R CC590 for center and ADP390 for surround , PS1200 sub in a 5.1 setup , whould I be OK with the pva5 or would it be best to go for the mca?
> 
> 
> Thx in advanced QUOTE]


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I've been reading the boards for some time and I've seen plenty of talk about the Faroudja and Reon chips for video processing. What chip does Anthem use and how would it compare to the Faroudja and the coveted Reon chips?


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *earwit* /forum/post/11715565
> 
> 
> In my case I usally power up the D2 by pressing the power switch on the
> 
> front panel..Again I have found if I hold it several seconds, powers up fine,
> 
> if I hold it down for a moment the unit will likely power down
> 
> 
> Bob



I have had a similar problem with my Harmony 720, and have not checked it out further (using the Anthem remote) because it occurs so infrequently.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/11719076
> 
> 
> I've been reading the boards for some time and I've seen plenty of talk about the Faroudja and Reon chips for video processing. What chip does Anthem use and how would it compare to the Faroudja and the coveted Reon chips?



The D2 and AVM50 use the Gennum GF9350 VXP Digital Image Processor

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...processor.html


----------



## slots1

My understanding from reading Bob's original entry (go back to page one) is that you set the projector at the least amount of change or use of processor. All of the changes, contrast, tint, brightness, beta are done on the D2. I have already gone into each input and adjusted them individually. Not the beta.

My sales/tech guy is finally coming over on Wednesday. The ISF guy will be over in October.

I have had no issues with handshaking on HDMI. I am still on the original release 1.10 and per Bob will not change as long as I have no issues. It sure would be nice that Anthem would post a final release on the site.

Gerry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/11720352
> 
> 
> My understanding from reading Bob's original entry (go back to page one) is that you set the projector at the least amount of change or use of processor. All of the changes, contrast, tint, brightness, beta are done on the D2. I have already gone into each input and adjusted them individually. Not the beta.
> 
> My sales/tech guy is finally coming over on Wednesday. The ISF guy will be over in October.
> 
> I have had no issues with handshaking on HDMI. I am still on the original release 1.10 and per Bob will not change as long as I have no issues. It sure would be nice that Anthem would post a final release on the site.
> 
> Gerry



Gerry, that's not quite correct.


You want to disable the extra video "enhancement" features in your projector that are intended to deal with crappy source video or poor setting choices made by the user in the projector. This would include things like "flesh tone enhancement", "velocity modulation", and their ilk.


But you want the PRIMARY job of adjusting for Brightness, Contrast, Color, Tint, Sharpness, and Gamma Correction to be done *IN THE PROJECTOR*.


Now this doesn't mean you adjust the projector differently for each source. What it means is that you adjust the projector ONCE to best reproduce the video test patterns generated internally in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Patterns), independent of any of your source devices.


How a user would do this is described in that "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post linked in the first post of this thread.


An ISF technician would do this using a light sensor, and might possibly go in and further refine the settings *IN THE PROJECTOR* via "service menus" that would be a bit dangerous for an untrained owner to fiddle with.


-----------------------------------


Having done that you then go and re-test the video calibration for each of your sources in turn. However, at this point, adjustments are made not in the projector but in the video input adjustment settings of the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Picture).


A user would do this, for example, using a calibration DVD for a DVD player, or a test chart program recorded off a broadcast on a DVR.


An ISF technician would do this using a light sensor, and, quite likely signal generators that produce test charts as if they were coming in on a cable or satellite broadcast.


Another factor of all this is setting up the display AND the sources to disable those annoying "enhancement" features I mentioned above that just get in the way of doing proper calibration. An ISF tech may very well have a better handle on how to do this for each display and each source simply because he's done it before.


------------------------------------


Now an ISF tech might very well go further. For example, if the adjustment controls *IN THE PROJECTOR* were not adequate to get optimal reproduction of the Anthem's own, internally generated test charts, then the ISF tech might be able to get a better result by using a combination of projector level settings and output controls from the Anthem. This would include, for example, the choice off 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 output data formats, or the use of the Gamma Correction feature in the Anthem.


And in unusual cases, the ISF tech might discover that some problem in the display or in one or more sources might best be solved by a combination of the following:


1) Making some minor video adjustment in a source device instead of disabling all such changes in each source, OR


2) Biasing the settings in the projector away from the ideal setting to display the Anthem test charts to get around some video processing error in the projector, and then compensating by adjusting the input settings in the Anthem for each source to counter that, OR


3) Biasing the settings so as not to have to use such extreme input adjustment settings for some particular, problematic source device.


Video calibration is the art of picking the right compromises, and what you are paying an ISF tech for is the not just the test equipment he brings. You are also paying for his knowledge of what compromises are POSSIBLE (including his knowledge of adjustments that might only be available in "service menus") and also what compromises, in practice, work best across the wide range of content you might be viewing.


-------------------------------------------------


Let's take an example. Some sources and some displays have problems properly reproducing "Blacker than Black" and "Peak White" data. In some cases the settings that ALLOW them to reproduce that data have the undesireable side effect of screwing up the smoothness of gray scale ramps.


The straightforward approach to setting up the video might leave you with one or the other of these problems. But an experienced user, willing to experiment, or an ISF tech with his knowledge of "what works" and the ability to test the consequences of different compromises rapidly (e.g., measuring ramp smoothness with a light sensor), might very well be able to come up with a better overall result by "detuning" a source or display from what would, simplistically, appear to be its "correct" settings, and then countering that with settings in the Anthem or in the device at the other end of the video path.


That is the "best" settings for the COMBINATION of devices may be slightly different from the "correct" settings for just one device tested all by itself.


And again, an ISF tech should have run into these sorts of problems often enough to have a handle on what works and what doesn't work.


---------------------------------------------


My own DVD player, the Pioneer Elite DV-59avi, has such a problem. It's default settings, which work just peachy for all other styles of output, clip "Blacker than Black" when the player is set to output HDMI 480i. As it turns out the owner's thread for that player includes special settings which allow the "Blacker than Black" data to pass properly at HDMI 480i output while correcting for the damage to the gray scale ramps that occur if you try to do this in the simplest fashion.


I.e.: For that player, zeroing out the video adjustments in the player would not produce the best results.


This is the sort of "fiddling" that an ISF tech might bring to the table.


---------------------------------------------


So if you have found an ISF tech you like, then you should definitely consider bringing him back in to retest and readjust things with your D2 or AVM-50 now in the system.


The "best" projector settings for a set of source devices directly connected to the projector may very well *NOT* be the "best" settings to use when all the video is going through the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11715103
> 
> 
> Hello again.
> 
> 
> OK I'm am very close to getting the AVM50
> 
> 
> But a few more questions if I may.
> 
> 
> -If my TV is ISF'd will I have to "redo" anything, Im asking because my set was configured for each input [PS3/ denon 2910 via HDMI] and [cablebox component] and [360 compontent] 360 and cable are a little different due to brightness.
> 
> So now all inputs will go out the AVM50 with one HDMI to one input in the TV so thats Why I ask.
> 
> So do I need to ISF the tv again or leave the tv as is and isf the avm50?
> 
> 
> -does anyone have cable delay times? What I mean is hooked up Via hdmi the HD channels take from 5-30secs to load? [had this issue with the denon 4308]
> 
> 
> - how close does the Amp have to be to the AVM50?
> 
> 
> -pva5 vs mca50 using studio20 for L/R CC590 for center and ADP390 for surround , PS1200 sub in a 5.1 setup , whould I be OK with the pva5 or would it be best to go for the mca?
> 
> 
> Thx in advanced "BOB" and whom ever else answers...lol I say Bob because he is always doing most of the replies.



1) You'll get better results if you have the TV / Anthem / Sources combo of devices ISF calibrated again. Including the Anthem in the video path gives the ISF tech more options to produce pristine video.


2) An HDMI connection setup "handshake" will take 1-2 seconds. If it is taking longer, something is wrong (perhaps a marginal HDMI cable). An HDMI handshake will happen each time the nature of the video signal changes. This would, of course, include switching from one source device to another, but would ALSO include cases where the video resolution changes. So, for example, if your cable box is changing its output resolution as you switch between SDTV and HDTV channels (a GOOD thing!), there will be a new handshake. When you change channels where the resolution does not change there should NOT be a new handshake. If the HDMI handshake bothers you, consider using Component video and Optical audio cables instead from your cable or satellite box.


3) The amp does not have to be close to the D2 or AVM-50. It could even be in another room. However, if your cable run from the D2 or AVM-50 to the amp is longer than, say, 15 or 20 feet, you should consider getting an amp with "balanced" inputs and run balanced cable from the XLR outputs of the D2 or AVM-50 to the amp, rather than the normal RCA interconnects. "Balanced" cabling sends the signal two different ways and then subtracts one way from the other at the receiving end. Thus any interference that enters the cable across the length of that run is automatically subtracted out of the result at the receiving end. Also note that the length of wiring from the D2 to the amp or from the amp to the speakers has nothing whatsoever to do with the "distance" adjustment for your speakers when setting up audio. Signals on the wires travel at the speed of light -- essentially instantaneous -- so there is no difference between short and long wiring or even whether the wires match in length.


4) I don't have enough experience with the amps you asked about to give you a recommendation between them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *earwit* /forum/post/11715565
> 
> 
> In my case I usally power up the D2 by pressing the power switch on the
> 
> front panel..Again I have found if I hold it several seconds, powers up fine,
> 
> if I hold it down for a moment the unit will likely power down
> 
> 
> Bob



This is odd.


Every time you press a button there is a chance of "key bounce" where the unit thinks one button press is actually more than one press just due to the way the electrical signal is formed as the button makes the connection, or terminates as you release the buttton. Typically, the circuit that senses a button press "de-bounces" the signal -- ignoring what seem to be multiple presses because they happen to close together.


My guess would be this is not being done properly on your unit.


-------------------------------------------


But then we have the other report here of someone saying that if the press and hold the front panel power button there unit powers off!


I still think what's going on here is more likely in how the unit senses power commands and queues them up during power on rather than something unusual in the incoming power or how the internal power supply operates.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/11719076
> 
> 
> I've been reading the boards for some time and I've seen plenty of talk about the Faroudja and Reon chips for video processing. What chip does Anthem use and how would it compare to the Faroudja and the coveted Reon chips?



Faroudja today is not Faroudja of old. They got bought and their video processing is now out of date.


The Gennum video processing in the Anthem is comparable to what the Reon stuff can do. However, I don't believe any of the Reon solutions now appearing in AVRs actually give access to the full feature set of what the Reon can do. I.e., you can't get at its flexibility.


In that sense, the D2 and AVM-50 are more like a high priced, standalone, external video processor which DOES give you access to the flexibility of its video chip.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11720248
> 
> 
> The D2 and AVM50 use the Gennum GF9350 VXP Digital Image Processor
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...processor.html



Ok I know people loath this kind of question but I have to ask so that I understand. Is the Gennum chip set significantly better than the Faroudja and Reon chips?


I’m looking at my options. I could get an Onkyo 805 AND an Sammy Bluray Disc player and still have 1000/1500 on my pocket instead of the AMV 50. I’m not asking if the AMV 50 is worth 1500.00 more. I understand the diminishing return concept. Also with the Onkyo I’d be getting HDMI 1.3 and tru dd/dts hd.


Is the Onkyo actually better?


Also, if I go with the AMV 50 (which I’m 95% sure I am) do I have to replace my Panasonic S77 DVD player with something like the Denon 3910 DVD player or could I just keep the S77 because I’d be using AMV 50 for the video and audio processing anyway.


Sorry for all the stupid questions. I just want to make sure I understand what I’m getting before I jump into anything.


One good thing is the retailer I’m buying it from is a heck of a good guy. As I said the AMV 50 is actually his. He wants to upgrade to the D2. He said if I take it he’ll come over with a six pack and we’ll spend the evening together setting it up. He’ll both set it up and show me how and why he’s doing what he’s doing.


EDIT: I posted this before I seen bob's response! The difference in the chip set’s are more clear now.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/11721215
> 
> 
> EDIT: I posted this before I seen bob's response! The difference in the chip set's are more clear now.


*I 2nd Bob's Response.*


All the other products using the Reon processor

are basically a closed box approach. It is there

to do ONLY what the Manufacturer wants it to

do. It won't let you tweak anything.


I had a stand-alone DVDO VP50 Video Processor

and I SOLD it to buy my D2. I get all the same

high-end tweaking capabilities with the D2 as

I did with the VP50.


The D2 was the BEST theater purchase I have

made in the last 10 years


----------



## Tolstoi

I 2nd Hankz's who 2nd Bob's Response.


I sold a combo AMV30/DVDO VP50 for the D2. That was a really smart move that cost me nothing since I also sold a box of expensive coaxial and analogue cables...


Everything started with the Audition of a D1 in replacement of the AMV30. The sound quality of the D1 was the real justification for the change. Before proceeding I bough a HD DVD player and realize that the audio over HDMI was really interesting. That leads me to look into the D2.


My intention was to keep the DVDO VP50 with the new Pre/Pro. When I got both in my setup I realized that they where two top units with similar performances, the D2 being superior on some aspect while the VP50 was superior on other. My first shock was to see how flexible and configurable the D2 is.


As stated by Hankz, most of the Video Processor implementation in Pre/pro, receiver, projector, display, and player do not provide much flexibility. Look at what JVC did with VP implementation in the RS1. Knowing what that chip could do it is really frustrating. Even if for these applications they use high end VP chipset, they still need to spent effort programming the chip, creating the user interface and testing the whole for interoperability with other devices. To control cost they stick to the bare minimum.


Conclusion it was pretty useless to keep both and end up selling the DVDO VP50 and have not a single regrets.


----------



## TREVLAN

Thx Bob for the info this will help me out.

Now I need to get my ISF guy back in to redo the tv and all other inputs plus I need to get my remote reprogrammed going to cost me a few bucks.


if I can't get this ISF'd for a while will my video look like crap?


One last question that for some reason I can not find.


How does the amp and avm50 comunicate with each other?

What I mean is I know all my A/V equipment connects to the avm50 then the speakers connect to the amp but how does the amp and the avm connect? is it via rca's?


thx again to everyones help so far.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11720248
> 
> 
> The D2 and AVM50 use the Gennum GF9350 VXP Digital Image Processor
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...processor.html



The big improvement between the current D2 chip and the latest 9450 from Gennum (used on the Lumagen Radiance XD) is noise reduction. This could be interesting for peoples watching lots of badly encode DVD's.


The VXP 9450 has 3D NR which is an improvement vs. the previous generation 9350 which only had 2D NR. This is the most significant difference. All the other improvements will provide minimal image quality improvements.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/11723056
> 
> 
> As stated by Hankz, most of the Video Processor implementation in Pre/pro, receiver, projector, display, and player do not provide much flexibility. Look at what JVC did with VP implementation in the RS1. Knowing what that chip could do it is really frustrating. Even if for these applications they use high end VP chipset, they still need to spent effort programming the chip, creating the user interface and testing the whole for interoperability with other devices. To control cost they stick to the bare minimum.



Just to give an example of how long it takes to build a good VP. The Luminace Radiance XD was announced exactly 12 months from now and they are just shipping evaluation units while they where supposed to go in full production in Q1 07. These devices are extremely complex top develop.


----------



## sCiEnt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11723165
> 
> 
> How does the amp and avm50 comunicate with each other?
> 
> What I mean is I know all my A/V equipment connects to the avm50 then the speakers connect to the amp but how does the amp and the avm connect? is it via rca's?



The AVM50 has two type of pre-outs, RCA and XLR (balanced outs). If you are using long cable runs, it is suggested that you use the balanced outs. For short runs the RCA's should be fine. So you would hook up the RCA's from the preouts on the AVM50 to the inputs in your amp. There should be one cable for each channel being fed to the amp.


----------



## sCiEnt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/11719076
> 
> 
> I've been reading the boards for some time and I've seen plenty of talk about the Faroudja and Reon chips for video processing. What chip does Anthem use and how would it compare to the Faroudja and the coveted Reon chips?



The Reon is the low end processer, I wonder how the Gennum would compare to the higher end Realta proessors that are starting to appear in pre-pro's more comparable to the D2.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sCiEnt* /forum/post/11723625
> 
> 
> The Reon is the low end processer, I wonder how the Gennum would compare to the higher end Realta proessors that are starting to appear in pre-pro's more comparable to the D2.



Ya see this is where I get all confused???


I think it’s safe to assume the Gennum processors are better than those you’d get in a 1200.00 receiver. BUT, does/would the hdmi 1.3 and the tru dd/dts hd actually make the 1200.00 receiver the better piece of equipment even though their processors aren’t as good as the Gennum?


Does 1.3 and the hd sound make up for the lack of processing?


Arg! Perhaps I should stop thinking so much and just **** or get off the pot!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/11723955
> 
> 
> Ya see this is where I get all confused???
> 
> 
> I think it's safe to assume the Gennum processors are better than those you'd get in a 1200.00 receiver. BUT, does/would the hdmi 1.3 and the tru dd/dts hd actually make the 1200.00 receiver the better piece of equipment even though their processors aren't as good as the Gennum?
> 
> 
> Does 1.3 and the hd sound make up for the lack of processing?
> 
> 
> Arg! Perhaps I should stop thinking so much and just **** or get off the pot!



Read the "Why You Don't Need HDMI V1.3" sticky thread at the top of this forum -- in particular the first post. That may help you get a better a handle on this.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11693423
> 
> 
> Well, I'm running out of things to suggest.
> 
> 
> One possibility is that the DVI to HDMI cable you are using from the DVR to the Anthem is faulty.
> 
> 
> Let's also try a power cycle: Turn off the Anthem with the remote and turn off the DVR. Then turn off the Anthem at the back panel power switch and also disconnect power from the DVR. Now repower the Anthem and DVR and when the DVR is live again, turn on the Anthem with the remote. There have been cases where the source gets the Anthem so confused on its HDMI input that you need to power cycle to clear it. It's a long shot, but worth a try.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't do it, and if a replacement DVI to HDMI cable doesn't do it, I think you'll need to contact Anthem tech support to see what they suggest.
> 
> --Bob



I finally spoke with Nick at Athem today. I sent him an email yesterday and he was in the process of researching the LG DVR. His initial thought was that the unit didn't correctly negotiate HDCP. He said A LOT of older DVI equipment didn't handle HDCP negotiation properly. He said, while they really want to make everything work, in the case of cable boxes, etc, in many cases, the best solution is to use a component connection. So often, the signal is so compressed anyway that most people won't notice any difference between HDMI and Component.


In this case, I'm receiving an OTA signal. The HD picture looks so good over Component and I don't have any HDMI handshaking issues, I'm just going to forget the DVR has DVI output and enjoy watching HDTV.










On a happy note, my wife is pretty excited about our "theater". She's invited the family over on Saturday for Movie Night!







I can't believe *that's* happening. WOW!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim, using Component video is almost certainly the best answer for you.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11724137
> 
> 
> Tim, using Component video is almost certainly the best answer for you.
> 
> --Bob



In fact, Nick said he uses component on his cable box, ignoring the HDMI connection.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11724148
> 
> 
> In fact, Nick said he uses component on his cable box, ignoring the HDMI connection.



So do I, based on Bob P's recommendation many posts back, and have no issues.


----------



## Tim Winders

And now I do as well. The HD picture from OTA signals is quite stunning. In fact, the picture of the HD broadcast of Jay Leno much better than the picture I get from my DVD player, Pioneer Elite DV-79AVi ouput 480i over HDMI, both processed through the D2. Of course, that is when the OTA signal works and isn't dropping out.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Unlike HDMI, the DVI output from a cable box almost certainly doesn't support 480i for SDTV channels anyway, whereas a Component connection WILL allow that so that the Anthem can do the de-interlacing for you.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11724326
> 
> 
> Unlike HDMI, the DVI output from a cable box almost certainly doesn't support 480i for SDTV channels anyway, whereas a Component connection WILL allow that so that the Anthem can do the de-interlacing for you.
> 
> --Bob



So does that mean that you should always go component from the cable box to the D2? At the moment I am going HDMI (although I am very much still in the set up phase - I don't even have seats in the room yet) and it looks pretty good. I haven't even tried component yet, but I certainly could.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11724110
> 
> 
> In this case, I'm receiving an OTA signal. The HD picture looks so good over Component and I don't have any HDMI handshaking issues, I'm just going to forget the DVR has DVI output and enjoy watching HDTV.



I have posted on here MANY MANY TIMES - DO NOT

USE HDMI outputs from a DVR or Cable Box - use only Component.

*IT IS TRULY a BENEFIT - not a LOSS*


HD-TV has NO NEED for HDMI output.


1) It is NOT Copy Protected like HD-DVD


2) The highest resolution is 1080i which works just fine over Component.


3) There is no lossless audio formats that require HDMI


4) Every time you change channels - there is NO HDMI handshake.


5) You save an HDMI port on the Anthem that can be used

for SOMETHING that might actually NEED it.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/11724579
> 
> 
> So does that mean that you should always go component from the cable box to the D2? At the moment I am going HDMI (although I am very much still in the set up phase - I don't even have seats in the room yet) and it looks pretty good. I haven't even tried component yet, but I certainly could.



Looks like drhankz just answered that.










If HDMI works for you and you have no issues, then leave it alone and use it. if you have sync issues, channel surfing problems or any uncertainty, use component. Do an A/B comparison between HDMI and Component and pick the one that looks best to you. You probably won't be able to tell and in the long run, Component will (most likely) be less troublesome.


=== Tim


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11724810
> 
> 
> Do an A/B comparison between HDMI and Component and pick the one that looks best to you. You probably won't be able to tell and in the long run, Component will (most likely) be less troublesome.
> 
> 
> === Tim



BECAUSE I have (5) Hi-Def DVRs in my system

- I did a frame by frame comparison. I'm using

the D2 feeding a Sony Ruby at 1080p - to a

12 Ft. Screen. Frame by Frame - I could not

see any difference even on a 12 ft. screen.


My Friend Rudolph - argued with me at first

and then did a A/B Comparison himself and

AGREED with me after he tried it


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11724946
> 
> 
> BECAUSE I have (5) Hi-Def DVRs in my system
> 
> - I did a frame by frame comparison. I'm using
> 
> the D2 feeding a Sony Ruby at 1080p - to a
> 
> 12 Ft. Screen. Frame by Frame - I could not
> 
> see any difference even on a 12 ft. screen.
> 
> 
> My Friend Rudolph - argued with me at first
> 
> and then did a A/B Comparison himself and
> 
> AGREED with me after he tried it










I love it.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11724975
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love it.



I agree - five HD-DVRs is really impressive - just when I think that I'm going overboard I come to this forum and get myself grounded!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/11724579
> 
> 
> So does that mean that you should always go component from the cable box to the D2? At the moment I am going HDMI (although I am very much still in the set up phase - I don't even have seats in the room yet) and it looks pretty good. I haven't even tried component yet, but I certainly could.



Unlike DRHANKZ, I still like HDMI from my cable box. The reasons are as follows:


1) I don't trust the analog video output stage of the Motorola built HD-DVR that Comcast uses. Although not all Component sources are the same (of course), I've seen loss of horizontal resolution due to filtering added by some sources.


2) I don't mind the HDMI handshake delays.


3) I have a source that I use as HDMI reference which I can use to get the HDMI path calibrated the way I like it. With HDMI from the Motorola box the odds are much better that I'll be able to use the same video setup with only minor tweaking. As it turns out, that is the case. Component input would need it's own set of Anthem input adjustments to get right.


4) I'm stubborn. I want HDMI to work properly. So I keep at it.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11725155
> 
> 
> 
> 4) I'm stubborn. I want HDMI to work properly. So I keep at it.
> 
> --Bob



If you can't SEE or HEAR the difference - It

is just a Religious Fanatic trying to push

the snowball uphill







keep it simple is my moto


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11725208
> 
> 
> If you can't SEE or HEAR the difference - It
> 
> is just a Religious Fanatic trying to push
> 
> the snowball uphill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> keep it simple is my moto



Another benefit is that HDMI is only 1 wire versus 4 - I know that this sounds petty, but when you're trying to manage a web of wires, with equal audio/video quality, why not go with the neater solution?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/11725354
> 
> 
> Another benefit is that HDMI is only 1 wire versus 4 - I know that this sounds petty, but when you're trying to manage a web of wires, with equal audio/video quality, why not go with the neater solution?



TRUE










It looks sexier also


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/11725354
> 
> 
> Another benefit is that HDMI is only 1 wire versus 4 - I know that this sounds petty, but when you're trying to manage a web of wires, with equal audio/video quality, why not go with the neater solution?



I suppose, if the DVI connection from my DVR worked properly with the D2, I would be using it. But, since it isn't and it's not really worth the headache involved, I'm sticking with Component.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11725389
> 
> 
> I suppose, if the DVI connection from my DVR worked properly with the D2, I would be using it. But, since it isn't and it's not really worth the headache involved, I'm sticking with Component.



On this board and many many other boards

you can read horror stories of many totally

different pieces of equipment that are having

problems - all DVI based.


It was a standard that was NEVER intended

to be used for Home Theater. It is a Computer

display standard.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11725430
> 
> 
> On this board and many many other boards
> 
> you can read horror stories of many totally
> 
> different pieces of equipment that are having
> 
> problems - all DVI based.
> 
> 
> It was a standard that was NEVER intended
> 
> to be used for Home Theater. It is a Computer
> 
> display standard.



I guess that's just another reason to stick with Component.


----------



## TREVLAN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sCiEnt* /forum/post/11723587
> 
> 
> The AVM50 has two type of pre-outs, RCA and XLR (balanced outs). If you are using long cable runs, it is suggested that you use the balanced outs. For short runs the RCA's should be fine. So you would hook up the RCA's from the preouts on the AVM50 to the inputs in your amp. There should be one cable for each channel being fed to the amp.



Thx for that, now if anyone here can answer my amp question if I will find big difference from the MCA5 to the PVA5 I will be all set.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11725541
> 
> 
> I guess that's just another reason to stick with Component.



Despite Bob's Negative Comments about

Component - It was designed from DAY-ONE

to support 1080i. I have been using 1080i

since 1996 with CRT PJs and Component and

an UN-GODLY Expensive Faroudja Scaler to

convert 480i to 1080i.


All that expense gear [Over $100K] is boat

anchors now in my cellar.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11726411
> 
> 
> All that expense gear [Over $100K] is boat
> 
> anchors now in my cellar.










Ouch. I thought I had it bad.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11726454
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ouch. I thought I had it bad.



It's all 10 years old and gave us great

Theater experience before anyone had HD.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11726480
> 
> 
> It's all 10 years old and gave us great
> 
> Theater experience before anyone had HD.



I like to hear that! I'm finally happy with my "theater". I can't believe how *GOOD* it really looks! In fact, I think I'll take some picture while it's light outside (and I can't watch anything).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There's nothing wrong with Component video done right.


I just don't trust Motorola.


-------------------------------------


Hey at least we're not arguing about stuff that really gets people's dander up -- like tube amps. (grin!)

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11726862
> 
> 
> I like to hear that! I'm finally happy with my "theater". I can't believe how *GOOD* it really looks! In fact, I think I'll take some picture while it's light outside (and I can't watch anything).



Well, I did it. finally took some pictures. they aren't the best and don't show any images on the screen, but, something quick and dirty to put up. And now I have a signature!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11724946
> 
> 
> BECAUSE I have (5) Hi-Def DVRs in my system
> 
> - I did a frame by frame comparison. I'm using
> 
> the D2 feeding a Sony Ruby at 1080p - to a
> 
> 12 Ft. Screen. Frame by Frame - I could not
> 
> see any difference even on a 12 ft. screen.
> 
> 
> My Friend Rudolph - argued with me at first
> 
> and then did a A/B Comparison himself and
> 
> AGREED with me after he tried it



I sure did and I have been contrite ever since and offer Hank's advice to anyone who asks. HD OTA, HD Cable (I spent weeks uselessly trying to get a Moto box to work with DVI-HDMI), HD DVRs, and any 1080i HD TV source - the answer is Component. No video res switching latency, no source switching excursions to the nether regions calling for reboots, no crazy cable box incompatibilities, more available HDMI ports for Blu-ray & HD DVD, and the SAME PQ or Better! This is one area where the theory was inconsistent with reality.


I give props to Bob's dogged determinism, he truly never gives up on anyone or anything, but the answer is clear, literally and figuratively, to me. HD TV = Component.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11728066
> 
> 
> HD TV = Component.



Nice to hear from you again - Tim


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11725155
> 
> 
> Unlike DRHANKZ, I still like HDMI from my cable box. The reasons are as follows:
> 
> 
> 1) I don't trust the analog video output stage of the Motorola built HD-DVR that Comcast uses. Although not all Component sources are the same (of course), I've seen loss of horizontal resolution due to filtering added by some sources.
> 
> 
> 2) I don't mind the HDMI handshake delays.
> 
> 
> 3) I have a source that I use as HDMI reference which I can use to get the HDMI path calibrated the way I like it. With HDMI from the Motorola box the odds are much better that I'll be able to use the same video setup with only minor tweaking. As it turns out, that is the case. Component input would need it's own set of Anthem input adjustments to get right.
> 
> 
> 4) I'm stubborn. I want HDMI to work properly. So I keep at it.
> 
> --Bob



I am also using HDMI for my cable box (SCI8300HD). It work fine for video but sometime the audio doesn't work for a few days or weeks and than come back. I suspect the cable company that keeps changing the firmware in my back... As a result I always keep the coaxial audio output connect just in case.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I am still using HDMI from my HD DVR as well. I still get video delays switching channels, but oddly enough the audio "popping" I used to get has pretty much disappeared without explanation.


----------



## slots1

Bob,

This was the paragraph in your first posting about the projector.

Finally set Brightness, Contrast, Color, Tint, and Sharpness all to the mid range values. Again, the factory default settings, even in the "movies" mode, are likely to be WRONG


So, that is where I got the comment about average in the projector and adjust each source at the D2 level.

I may have misunderstood what you meant.

After reading your update, I now understand what you meant.

Gerry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/11729239
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> This was the paragraph in your first posting about the projector.
> 
> Finally set Brightness, Contrast, Color, Tint, and Sharpness all to the mid range values. Again, the factory default settings, even in the "movies" mode, are likely to be WRONG
> 
> 
> So, that is where I got the comment about average in the projector and adjust each source at the D2 level.
> 
> I may have misunderstood what you meant.
> 
> After reading your update, I now understand what you meant.
> 
> Gerry



Sure, I understand.


Further on in that post there are instructions for setting those levels properly. The idea is to set them all to the mid-point values to START that process, rather than starting from the factory default values.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I'm a big disciple of the KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid) principle ala drhankz. I just interpret the principle differently.







To me simple is not doing a needless D/A - A/D conversion, hence I use HDMI out of my cable Sci-Atl HD DVR and it works very well. The resolution re-synch doesn't bother me at all, maybe I'm just not a fast speedsurfer. And I have A/B'ed the analog out of my cable box and I do see a difference especially on 480i standard broadcasts, might just be my system. Like Bob I don't trust the cable DVR to do everything right, but more importantly I paid a lot of money for my D2's HDMI ports and I'm damned well going to use them.








I'm proud to be a zealot of the church of HDMI. Die Component infidels.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/11736471
> 
> 
> And I have A/B'ed the analog out of my cable box and I do see a difference especially on 480i standard broadcasts, might just be my system.



I have my DVRs [aka Cable Boxes] Set to 1080i

all the time. You should try that and A/B it










Besides - who still watches SD-TV


----------



## m396 #00-011

Bear with me, my last post was on page 122. I just don't have the time to get caught up fully....


Anthem AVM50 using 1.12s


Using Component Video in and out, I takes about 10 sec for the TV to sync. I get 3-4 errors about "480p max Macrovision" This happens everytime I change from a SD to HD channel and back on my Motorola 6412 cable box. Motorola is set to output 480i on SD content. Is this normal?


What is the latest version of software floating around?


I'm using a PS3. Running HDMI in for audio only. Component for video. If the Anthem is on and on another source, then I switch over to the PS3, I don't get any audio usually. Maybe a few loud pops or crackles. I have to shut down/restart the Anthem. If I turn the Anthem on directly with that source, it's fine. Ideas?


Thanks in advance....


----------



## Randyray

Hello all, I purchaed a D2 about 2 weeks ago and I am still learning all it can do. Sometimes it looks and sounds great and other times it doesn't. I've spent a few days reading all these posts and I feel I have learned a lot so hopefully I can set it up to have it look and sound great all the time. I also had the HDMI handshaking problem with the Sony blu ray player BDP -S1 after upgrading it to the 2.0 firmware. Sony released a 2.1 firmware last week which fixed this problem according to posters on the BDP-S1 forum, but it was only up for one day before Sony took it down. It appears while it fixed the Anthem problem, it introduced some new issues. Well today, Sony released firmware 2.5 which posters say fixes all problems. I am on the road but so I haven't tried it yet. It is so new it isn't on their support site yet but it is in their FTP site and emails were sent to registered owners. If you visit the BDP -S1 firmware update thread you will find a link to it. Hopefully we can enjoy our Sony Blu ray players again


Ray


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/11738475
> 
> 
> Bear with me, my last post was on page 122. I just don't have the time to get caught up fully....
> 
> 
> Anthem AVM50 using 1.12s
> 
> 
> Using Component Video in and out, I takes about 10 sec for the TV to sync. I get 3-4 errors about "480p max Macrovision" This happens everytime I change from a SD to HD channel and back on my Motorola 6412 cable box. Motorola is set to output 480i on SD content. Is this normal?
> 
> 
> What is the latest version of software floating around?
> 
> 
> I'm using a PS3. Running HDMI in for audio only. Component for video. If the Anthem is on and on another source, then I switch over to the PS3, I don't get any audio usually. Maybe a few loud pops or crackles. I have to shut down/restart the Anthem. If I turn the Anthem on directly with that source, it's fine. Ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance....



We've had a couple reports here of Anthem units erroneously thinking that incoming Component video is "Macrovision" copy protected when it isn't -- neither the SD nor HD Component video from a cable set top box will be protected that way.


Macrovision copy protection is a scheme that deliberately screws up the sync signals in the analog video so that if you try to record the video to a VCR the normal "generation losses" will result in a recording that is unusable. The Anthem detects apparent Macrovision and refuses to upscale any such input beyond 480p output.


I don't think we've had enough follow up from posters to know if this is an Anthem software problem, a problem in the Anthem unit's hardware, or something that is messing up the incoming Component video signal such as a faulty Component source device or Component cabling.


Check your Component cabling from the Motorola box. Make sure the plugs are fully inserted in the sockets. Swap out for a new Motorola box from your cable company if possible.


If those don't give you a solution, give Anthem tech support a call.


V1.12s is the latest D2/AVM-50 software version that's been reported here.


----------------------------------------


Your PS3 problem sounds like an Anthem software issue, but there are some things to check.


Make sure that HDMI Repeater = NO, and Auto Dig = No are both set in the Setup / Source Setup entry for the PS3 input. Also make sure that Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = Off is set for that input.


The HDMI audio signal is embedded in a video signal -- even though you are not using the HDMI video. That means, the HDMI signal the PS3 is sending to the Anthem is very high bandwidth. So you want a good quality HDMI cable, designed for 1080p video, as the connection from the PS3 to the Anthem.


If those checks don't give you a resolution, contact Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randyray* /forum/post/11739333
> 
> 
> Hello all, I purchaed a D2 about 2 weeks ago and I am still learning all it can do. Sometimes it looks and sounds great and other times it doesn't. I've spent a few days reading all these posts and I feel I have learned a lot so hopefully I can set it up to have it look and sound great all the time. I also had the HDMI handshaking problem with the Sony blu ray player BDP -S1 after upgrading it to the 2.0 firmware. Sony released a 2.1 firmware last week which fixed this problem according to posters on the BDP-S1 forum, but it was only up for one day before Sony took it down. It appears while it fixed the Anthem problem, it introduced some new issues. Well today, Sony released firmware 2.5 which posters say fixes all problems. I am on the road but so I haven't tried it yet. It is so new it isn't on their support site yet but it is in their FTP site and emails were sent to registered owners. If you visit the BDP -S1 firmware update thread you will find a link to it. Hopefully we can enjoy our Sony Blu ray players again
> 
> 
> Ray



Thanks for the Sony player info, Ray! I'm glad to see Sony is trying to resolve this problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11737277
> 
> 
> I have my DVRs [aka Cable Boxes] Set to 1080i
> 
> all the time. You should try that and A/B it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides - who still watches SD-TV



*raises hand*


I do! And the de-interlacing and scaling in my Motorola cable box is **** -- regardless of whether the output is Component or HDMI.


I love the quality I can get feeding HDMI 480i to the Anthem for the old movies I can see on SD channels. Now I happen to be blessed with a surprisingly clean digital cable feed for SD channels. I know full well how bad SD can be in some cable markets (and via satellite). But as good as my feed is, I wouldn't think of corrupting it with the de-interlacing and scaling crap Motorola is foisting on an unsuspecting public.


(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850

I too went component from the cable box to the D2. I can't fathom the picture being any better over HDMI when watching a good feed like ESPN during a live event. It's truly unbelieveable. I've only had my plasma for a week or so and it's been quite the learning curve. It took me about 4 hours (yes, I'm a little slow at times) to figure out why my cable picture was stretched. Naturally I went through the Anthem's input and output setup several times. Then to the Pioneer display setup and all submenus. Then back to the D2, back to the display, etc ad nauseum. I could feel my blood pressure rising. Walk away, walk away. The next day I started over only to FINALLY figure out that it was my cable box stretching the 1080i signal. Having a new pre-pro, display and cable service all at the same time has proved quite a challenge, but I think I'm finally on the downward side. The picture and sound I now get are as I hoped when I started this venture, and that's what it's all about.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/11728907
> 
> 
> I am also using HDMI for my cable box (SCI8300HD). It work fine for video but sometime the audio doesn't work for a few days or weeks and than come back. I suspect the cable company that keeps changing the firmware in my back... As a result I always keep the coaxial audio output connect just in case.



I don't use HDMI for audio from my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR. I use optical cable for audio, and HDMI for video only.


The reason has nothing to do with audio quality or reliability. The HDMI audio gave me no problems in that regard.


But Motorola implements the HDMI handshake as two passes -- once for video and a second time for video plus audio. That means every time you change between SDTV and HDTV (or back) the audio startup is delayed an additional couple seconds after the video starts.


With HDMI video and optical audio, the audio actually starts up a moment before the video starts up. There's still the 1-2 second handshake delay before the video starts up, but I'm used to that. And of course there's no difference whatsoever between the digital audio that comes in over the optical cable and what would come in as part of the HDMI signal.

--Bob


----------



## jeffbags

I'm sure this has been posted several times, but I have hooked up my xbox 360 via component and I can't get anything to display other than 480i. When I go into the xbox settings to change to 1080i (or switch to HDTV on the xbox module) I get a blinking blue screen. Also, the XBOX had a 1080p option but I believe your can only get 1080i over component, correct?


Thanks,

Jeff


----------



## Joe Wong

Hi,


I have a new PC with an NVidia 8800GTS card (with 2 DVI and 1 S-video outputs).


I hooked it up to the D2 via DVI-HDMI cable (and then HDMI out to the JVC RS1), but no picture. So I bought and just today received the Gefen DVI Detective, hook it all up, but still no picture. When I hit Status on the D2's remote, it tells me the video input is [email protected], but the screen is black.


Are there any settings I need to be aware of? Do I need to set the video config to a particular resolution? I think the 8800 GTS is capable of 2560x1600.


Do I need to update the DVI-HDMI cable? I bought it over 3 years ago.


I can use the PC's S-video output with no problems, but the resolution is low. I also have had no problems with a PS3 and a cable box using HDMI to the D2.


Any help would be appreciated!


Cheers,


Joe


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Wong* /forum/post/11751336
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I have a new PC with an NVidia 8800GTS card (with 2 DVI and 1 S-video outputs).
> 
> 
> I hooked it up to the D2 via DVI-HDMI cable (and then HDMI out to the JVC RS1), but no picture. So I bought and just today received the Gefen DVI Detective, hook it all up, but still no picture. When I hit Status on the D2's remote, it tells me the video input is [email protected], but the screen is black.
> 
> 
> Are there any settings I need to be aware of? Do I need to set the video config to a particular resolution? I think the 8800 GTS is capable of 2560x1600.
> 
> 
> Do I need to update the DVI-HDMI cable? I bought it over 3 years ago.
> 
> 
> I can use the PC's S-video output with no problems, but the resolution is low. I also have had no problems with a PS3 and a cable box using HDMI to the D2.
> 
> 
> Any help would be appreciated!
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Joe



I have a NVIDIA 7800 GTX also connected to a D2 via a DVI-HDMI cable. It works, but I have to reboot the PC with the D2 on and set to the PC's input before the NVIDIA control panel will recognize the D2 as a separate monitor.


My cabling is NVIDIA 7800 -> 50' DVI-HDMI cable (Monoprice) -> HDMI extender -> 6' HDMI cable -> D2. My desktop resolution is 1920x1200 and I use the "clone" option in configuring multiple monitors. The D2 recognizes the input as 1080p.


The tricky part for me was getting the NVIDIA driver to see the D2 as a 2nd monitor. The only reliable method for me is to reboot as mentioned above. If you don't have it already, grab the moninfo utility from EnTech. It should tell you when the D2 is connected regardless of what the NVIDIA control panel sees.


I'm using the latest D2 firmware, 1.12s. When I was using 1.11, I was able to get NVIDIA to recognize the D2 as a monitor without rebooting by performing a couple of steps in Windows. I informed Nick at Anthem about this and he responded known issues with NVIDIA cards and the D2 (no specifics).


I'm also considering the Gefen DVI Detective as a way to eliminate the need to reboot the PC. Theoretically the DVI Detective will continuously tell the NVIDIA the D2 is connected and thus always recognize it as a 2nd monitor.


----------



## Joe Wong

Thanks Krops...


Do I have to use the D2 as the 2nd monitor? It seems the max res for monitor 1 is only 1024 x 768...I'm trying to look up the manual for my card...


Cheers,


Joe



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/11751897
> 
> 
> I have a NVIDIA 7800 GTX also connected to a D2 via a DVI-HDMI cable. It works, but I have to reboot the PC with the D2 on and set to the PC's input before the NVIDIA control panel will recognize the D2 as a separate monitor.
> 
> 
> My cabling is NVIDIA 7800 -> 50' DVI-HDMI cable (Monoprice) -> HDMI extender -> 6' HDMI cable -> D2. My desktop resolution is 1920x1200 and I use the "clone" option in configuring multiple monitors. The D2 recognizes the input as 1080p.
> 
> 
> The tricky part for me was getting the NVIDIA driver to see the D2 as a 2nd monitor. The only reliable method for me is to reboot as mentioned above. If you don't have it already, grab the moninfo utility from EnTech. It should tell you when the D2 is connected regardless of what the NVIDIA control panel sees.
> 
> 
> I'm using the latest D2 firmware, 1.12s. When I was using 1.11, I was able to get NVIDIA to recognize the D2 as a monitor without rebooting by performing a couple of steps in Windows. I informed Nick at Anthem about this and he responded known issues with NVIDIA cards and the D2 (no specifics).
> 
> 
> I'm also considering the Gefen DVI Detective as a way to eliminate the need to reboot the PC. Theoretically the DVI Detective will continuously tell the NVIDIA the D2 is connected and thus always recognize it as a 2nd monitor.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffbags* /forum/post/11750580
> 
> 
> I'm sure this has been posted several times, but I have hooked up my xbox 360 via component and I can't get anything to display other than 480i. When I go into the xbox settings to change to 1080i (or switch to HDTV on the xbox module) I get a blinking blue screen. Also, the XBOX had a 1080p option but I believe your can only get 1080i over component, correct?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jeff



There should be no problem displaying the typical HDTV resolutions from the XBOX over Component (i.e., 720p or 1080i), except that if you are playing a standard DVD the output resolution over Component will be limited to no higher than 480p due to industry copy protection requirements. Component cables themselves are certainly good up to 1080p/60Hz although the Anthem limits processing of Component video input to 1080p/30 ( = 1080i/60) or lower.


Odds are you haven't found the right settings in the XBOX (or your XBOX is broken), but let's examine your Anthem settings:


* First make sure the output side of the Anthem is set up correctly for your TV. See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread. You test the TV side of the Anthem using the Anthem's own, internally generated video as described in that post -- i.e., without using any source device video.


* Tell us what software version you are using on the Anthem. Press Select once on the remote to bring up the version number. There are some bugs in older software that could be the cause of your problem.


* If you are using the V1.12s software (also labeled V1.2 in some Anthems), be aware that there are TWO Video Output configurations you can set up. Make sure you have assigned the one you want to use to the Anthem input definition for viewing the XBOX.


* In Setup / Source Setup for the input definition you want to use for viewing the XBOX, confirm that Scaler Input = Component, *AND ALSO* that Component Video In = the input jack set on the back of the Anthem you have used for the XBOX. Make sure the three Component plugs are fully inserted in their jacks at both ends.


* Are you using Component or HDMI cabling to your TV? If Component, make sure the cables are plugged into the upper set of Component output jacks -- the ones labeled "Main" as opposed to the ones just below them labeled "Main or Zone 2". And make sure that Setup / Video Output / Preferred is HDMI or Component according to the cabling you are using to drive your TV.


* While the XBOX input is selected for viewing, press and hold the "7" key on the Anthem to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. Scroll right to the Output panel and then down to the Frame Lock line and confirm that Frame Lock = OFF is set.


* Double check the video settings in your XBOX. I can't help you with those since I don't own an XBOX. Also, check to see if you need to apply the latest software upgrade to the XBOX.


* While viewing XBOX video, press the Select key on the Anthem remote repeatedly to bring up the various status displays. Please report what it shows for video input.


* Then go to Video Source Adjust / Info and report what is shown for both video input and ouput.


Let's see what you have for us on this, and we'll take it from there.

--Bob


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Wong* /forum/post/11752473
> 
> 
> Do I have to use the D2 as the 2nd monitor? It seems the max res for monitor 1 is only 1024 x 768...I'm trying to look up the manual for my card...



Hmm, not sure. All I can suggest is experiment. The D2 is monitor 2 for me, and I find I can set the desktop resolution to anything up to what monitor 1 can take (1920x1200 in my case). When I set the resolution to 1280x1024 for example, both the desktop and D2 go to that resolution. What is interesting is the D2 still receives a 1080p signal.


In case it helps, I attached a screenshot of my NVIDIA control panel.


----------



## jeffbags

Thanks Bob! I will perform these checks today and give you the results. I see that you mention firmware version 1.12 but all I see on the Anthem website is version 1.11, which happens to be the version I am currently running. Where can I get this updated version?


Thanks,

Jeff


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffbags* /forum/post/11753258
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob! I will perform these checks today and give you the results. I see that you mention firmware version 1.12 but all I see on the Anthem website is version 1.11, which happens to be the version I am currently running. Where can I get this updated version?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jeff



For reasons never adequately explained, Anthem has not updated the software on their web site since last year. However, if you call or email Anthem tech support, they will email you the latest stuff.


But don't be in a rush to update your software to that version. Let's see if you really need to first. There are some known problems in the V1.12s software and we're expecting at least one more bug fix version before they go "final" with it. I'm still running on the original V1.11 stuff myself, and I'm pretty sure we have happy XBOX users running V1.11 on their Anthems as well.

--Bob


----------



## Joe Wong

Krops,


my NVidia control panel has much fewer options than what you show. I called my PC manufacturer (Puget) and they said it has to do with Windows Vista incompatibility? I am running Vista Home Premium.


I tried installing the latest Forceware drivers (163.69) but with the DVI connected to DVI Detective and then to D2, the screen went black while installing. According to the driver installation instructions it should have prompted for uninstall of previous drivers but I never got that message (or, at least, never saw it). Also, the instructions say it should have been trying to recognize the D2 as a monitor?


As further background, I configured and bought this PC without a monitor, so all my Display Settings say is Generic PnP monitor. When does NVidia recognize the D2? During install of drivers?


Thanks for any help...this is getting frustrating.


Joe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/11752967
> 
> 
> Hmm, not sure. All I can suggest is experiment. The D2 is monitor 2 for me, and I find I can set the desktop resolution to anything up to what monitor 1 can take (1920x1200 in my case). When I set the resolution to 1280x1024 for example, both the desktop and D2 go to that resolution. What is interesting is the D2 still receives a 1080p signal.
> 
> 
> In case it helps, I attached a screenshot of my NVIDIA control panel.


----------



## dschamis

Has anyone successfully run a Mac to the D2 via DVI=>HDMI?


----------



## randman

Well, I got the Toshiba HD-A30 HD DVD player, one of their 3rd generation HD DVD players. Great deal (9 free HD DVDs from BB - select any 2 from the store + 2 in the box + 5 from the mail).


I connected the HD-A30 to HDMI 1 of my D2 (version 1.11g firmware). I setup my D2 to use DVD 4 with HDMI 1 as the input scaler. I was all excited to sit back and watch a move, but I get no picture or sound out of the HDMI. I only get the Anthem blue screen. I can see the setup menu of the HD-A30 when using its composite out, but nothing out of its HDMI out (and there is nothing in setup to tell it to start using HDMI). I've tried both "Yes" and "No" in the 'HDMI Repeater' setting of the D2. Anyone else having this issue with the HD-A30 or an earlier generation Toshiba HD DVD player?


Later, I'll try using a different HDMI cable (I'm using this same brand HDMI cable with other HDMI sources including my PS3). If that doesn't work, I can try connecting my projector directly to the HD-A30. If still no luck, I'll exchange it at BB. Any other thoughts?


----------



## yourlilbro

hey guys, I've been enjoying my D2 in my HT which is still under construction. I find that the sound quality is really extravagant. But, I keep wondering to myself, 'How good are the newer pre/pros?'


So, to get to my point, Are any of you worried about the sound quality the newer pre/pros have in comparison to your D2?


I've heard the Lexicon MC-12 and Parasound Halo C2, as well as my already replaced Sunfire Theater Grand Mk II. Even though my D2 is only very subtly clearer and warmer than the MC-12, it certainly sounds better than the C2 and my Sunfire. But, What I'm worried about is maybe Denon's upcoming Pre/Pro or whatever is in the under 10k area. I've heard the Theta Casablanca and it is truly heaven to my ears, The Meridian 861 is orgasmic as well. But, these are components costing 3-4 times the D2. Everytime I hear my D2 even with my old Snell system I keep thinking 'If it sounds this good, how much better can they make it?'


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/11769034
> 
> 
> Well, I got the Toshiba HD-A30 HD DVD player, one of their 3rd generation HD DVD players. Great deal (9 free HD DVDs from BB - select any 2 from the store + 2 in the box + 5 from the mail).
> 
> 
> I connected the HD-A30 to HDMI 1 of my D2 (version 1.11g firmware). I setup my D2 to use DVD 4 with HDMI 1 as the input scaler. I was all excited to sit back and watch a move, but I get no picture or sound out of the HDMI. I only get the Anthem blue screen. I can see the setup menu of the HD-A30 when using its composite out, but nothing out of its HDMI out (and there is nothing in setup to tell it to start using HDMI). I've tried both "Yes" and "No" in the 'HDMI Repeater' setting of the D2. Anyone else having this issue with the HD-A30 or an earlier generation Toshiba HD DVD player?
> 
> 
> Later, I'll try using a different HDMI cable (I'm using this same brand HDMI cable with other HDMI sources including my PS3). If that doesn't work, I can try connecting my projector directly to the HD-A30. If still no luck, I'll exchange it at BB. Any other thoughts?



Presuming you are using HDMI output to your display (i.e., you are not trying to make HDMI input to Component output work), and that is working fine for other sources, no, I've got no suggestions over what you've already decided to try yourself.


Well, one suggestion: You can temporarily hook your new A30 via HDMI directly to your display to confirm that its HDMI output is working at all.

--Bob


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Wong* /forum/post/11765609
> 
> 
> I tried installing the latest Forceware drivers (163.69) but with the DVI connected to DVI Detective and then to D2, the screen went black while installing. According to the driver installation instructions it should have prompted for uninstall of previous drivers but I never got that message (or, at least, never saw it). Also, the instructions say it should have been trying to recognize the D2 as a monitor?
> 
> 
> As further background, I configured and bought this PC without a monitor, so all my Display Settings say is Generic PnP monitor. When does NVidia recognize the D2? During install of drivers?



The monitor does not need to be present at the time of driver installation. Also, I would try getting things to work first with a direct connection from the NVidia card to the D2, i.e. bypass the Gefen DVI Detective to eliminate a variable.


Start the D2, set it to the PC's HDMI input and then power-cycle your PC. In my case when Windows XP starts, the D2 will receive a signal from the card. At this point, I can see my desktop background. Once XP finishes loading, I go into the NVidia control panel and set the proper mode for a 2-monitor display ("clone" in my case).


Once you verify things are working with a direct connection, then introduce the DVI Detective.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11770367
> 
> 
> Presuming you are using HDMI output to your display (i.e., you are not trying to make HDMI input to Component output work), and that is working fine for other sources, no, I've got no suggestions over what you've already decided to try yourself.
> 
> 
> Well, one suggestion: You can temporarily hook your new A30 via HDMI directly to your display to confirm that its HDMI output is working at all.
> 
> --Bob



To summarize my problem: when the Toshiba HD-A30 was connected to my

D2 via HDMI, I get no signal. No picture. No sound. Clicking on setup in the HD-A30's remote


sends nothing to the HDMI output. I can see the setup menu when using composite out, but nothing


comes out of the HDMI out. I tried setting "HDMI Repeater" to both yes and no in the D2. No luck.


The D2 gets no signal whatsoever.


So, I tried connecting my HD-A30 directly to my projector. I turned on the projector, followed by


the HD-A30. Same problem - no signal. Pressing the setup menu on the HD-A30's remote didn't


display anything on the projector. The projector just said "No signal" (same symptoms that the D2


said when the HD-A30 was connected directly to the D2).


Aside: there is nothing in the HD-A30's setup menu that requires you to tell it to


use HDMI (it defaults to outputing 1080i by default unless you change things in the setup menu).


Surprisingly, as soon as I inserted the DVD, a video signal was sent out of the HD-A30's


HDMI out to my projector. I got the HD DVD logo in the bottom right corner of the

picture, and the DVD's picture came up. Then, when I click on setup on the HD-A30 remote, the setup screen comes up!!! Later, I didn't have to insert a disk for the HD-A30's menu to show up in my projector.


However, when the HD-A30 is connected to my D2, I couldn't get it to send a video or audio signal, no matter what I did. Unlike earlier, inserting a DVD didn't help.


Seems like more HDMI flakiness.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/11769159
> 
> 
> hey guys, I've been enjoying my D2 in my HT which is still under construction. I find that the sound quality is really extravagant. But, I keep wondering to myself, 'How good are the newer pre/pros?'
> 
> 
> So, to get to my point, Are any of you worried about the sound quality the newer pre/pros have in comparison to your D2?
> 
> 
> I've heard the Lexicon MC-12 and Parasound Halo C2, as well as my already replaced Sunfire Theater Grand Mk II. Even though my D2 is only very subtly clearer and warmer than the MC-12, it certainly sounds better than the C2 and my Sunfire. But, What I'm worried about is maybe Denon's upcoming Pre/Pro or whatever is in the under 10k area. I've heard the Theta Casablanca and it is truly heaven to my ears, The Meridian 861 is orgasmic as well. But, these are components costing 3-4 times the D2. Everytime I hear my D2 even with my old Snell system I keep thinking 'If it sounds this good, how much better can they make it?'



You can spend a lot of time chasing audio nirvana. Money too.


Before I'd spend a penny more on audio electronics than the D2 I'd want to be sure I'd already done what makes sense on upgrading speakers and dealing with room treatment. Even then, I think the average D2 owner will likely gain more upgrading sources than upgrading the pre/pro. Then of course there is the wonderful world of amps.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/11772369
> 
> 
> To summarize my problem: when the Toshiba HD-A30 was connected to my
> 
> D2 via HDMI, I get no signal. No picture. No sound. Clicking on setup in the HD-A30's remote
> 
> 
> sends nothing to the HDMI output. I can see the setup menu when using composite out, but nothing
> 
> 
> comes out of the HDMI out. I tried setting "HDMI Repeater" to both yes and no in the D2. No luck.
> 
> 
> The D2 gets no signal whatsoever.
> 
> 
> So, I tried connecting my HD-A30 directly to my projector. I turned on the projector, followed by
> 
> 
> the HD-A30. Same problem - no signal. Pressing the setup menu on the HD-A30's remote didn't
> 
> 
> display anything on the projector. The projector just said "No signal" (same symptoms that the D2
> 
> 
> said when the HD-A30 was connected directly to the D2).
> 
> 
> Aside: there is nothing in the HD-A30's setup menu that requires you to tell it to
> 
> 
> use HDMI (it defaults to outputing 1080i by default unless you change things in the setup menu).
> 
> 
> Surprisingly, as soon as I inserted the DVD, a video signal was sent out of the HD-A30's
> 
> 
> HDMI out to my projector. I got the HD DVD logo in the bottom right corner of the
> 
> picture, and the DVD's picture came up. Then, when I click on setup on the HD-A30 remote, the setup screen comes up!!! Later, I didn't have to insert a disk for the HD-A30's menu to show up in my projector.
> 
> 
> However, when the HD-A30 is connected to my D2, I couldn't get it to send a video or audio signal, no matter what I did. Unlike earlier, inserting a DVD didn't help.
> 
> 
> Seems like more HDMI flakiness.



Bizarre! I'd like to say the A30 is broken, but I'm not sure we know that yet.


Any other A30 owners here yet?


EDIT: Have you checked to see if there's an A30 firmware upgrade?

--Bob


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11772389
> 
> 
> Bizarre! I'd like to say the A30 is broken, but I'm not sure we know that yet.
> 
> 
> Any other A30 owners here yet?
> 
> 
> EDIT: Have you checked to see if there's an A30 firmware upgrade?
> 
> --Bob



I told it to do an upgrade, and it said I already have the latest firmware (it said "1.0/1.1"). So, I'm thinking of exchanging it, and if that doesn't work, I'll just return it...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

randman,

I've got one other thing for you to try. While the A30 is supposed to be generating HDMI output, grab the HDMI plug near the socket and gently press it into the socket by hand. I can't tell you how many times I've solved HDMI issues by discovering that the plug was not fully seated in the socket. It only takes a tiny bit of looseness to lose the signal.


I'm thinking the vibration of loading and starting the disc may have generated a good connection the one time it worked while wired to your display.

--Bob


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/11772369
> 
> 
> To summarize my problem: when the Toshiba HD-A30 was connected to my
> 
> D2 via HDMI, I get no signal. No picture. No sound. Clicking on setup in the HD-A30's remote
> 
> 
> sends nothing to the HDMI output. I can see the setup menu when using composite out, but nothing
> 
> 
> comes out of the HDMI out. I tried setting "HDMI Repeater" to both yes and no in the D2. No luck.
> 
> 
> The D2 gets no signal whatsoever.
> 
> 
> So, I tried connecting my HD-A30 directly to my projector. I turned on the projector, followed by
> 
> 
> the HD-A30. Same problem - no signal. Pressing the setup menu on the HD-A30's remote didn't
> 
> 
> display anything on the projector. The projector just said "No signal" (same symptoms that the D2
> 
> 
> said when the HD-A30 was connected directly to the D2).
> 
> 
> Aside: there is nothing in the HD-A30's setup menu that requires you to tell it to
> 
> 
> use HDMI (it defaults to outputing 1080i by default unless you change things in the setup menu).
> 
> 
> Surprisingly, as soon as I inserted the DVD, a video signal was sent out of the HD-A30's
> 
> 
> HDMI out to my projector. I got the HD DVD logo in the bottom right corner of the
> 
> picture, and the DVD's picture came up. Then, when I click on setup on the HD-A30 remote, the setup screen comes up!!! Later, I didn't have to insert a disk for the HD-A30's menu to show up in my projector.
> 
> 
> However, when the HD-A30 is connected to my D2, I couldn't get it to send a video or audio signal, no matter what I did. Unlike earlier, inserting a DVD didn't help.
> 
> 
> Seems like more HDMI flakiness.



I doubt this will be helpful, but the old A1 had a "Voutput" button on the remote that had to be used to designate HDMI. I don't believe there was any setup or menu item for this.


If you have that button on the A30 remote, give it a try.


Good Luck,

Randy


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/11772369
> 
> 
> To summarize my problem: when the Toshiba HD-A30 was connected to my
> 
> D2 via HDMI, I get no signal. No picture. No sound. Clicking on setup in the HD-A30's remote
> 
> 
> sends nothing to the HDMI output. I can see the setup menu when using composite out, but nothing
> 
> 
> comes out of the HDMI out. I tried setting "HDMI Repeater" to both yes and no in the D2. No luck.
> 
> 
> The D2 gets no signal whatsoever.
> 
> 
> So, I tried connecting my HD-A30 directly to my projector. I turned on the projector, followed by
> 
> 
> the HD-A30. Same problem - no signal. Pressing the setup menu on the HD-A30's remote didn't
> 
> 
> display anything on the projector. The projector just said "No signal" (same symptoms that the D2
> 
> 
> said when the HD-A30 was connected directly to the D2).
> 
> 
> Aside: there is nothing in the HD-A30's setup menu that requires you to tell it to
> 
> 
> use HDMI (it defaults to outputing 1080i by default unless you change things in the setup menu).
> 
> 
> Surprisingly, as soon as I inserted the DVD, a video signal was sent out of the HD-A30's
> 
> 
> HDMI out to my projector. I got the HD DVD logo in the bottom right corner of the
> 
> picture, and the DVD's picture came up. Then, when I click on setup on the HD-A30 remote, the setup screen comes up!!! Later, I didn't have to insert a disk for the HD-A30's menu to show up in my projector.
> 
> 
> However, when the HD-A30 is connected to my D2, I couldn't get it to send a video or audio signal, no matter what I did. Unlike earlier, inserting a DVD didn't help.
> 
> 
> Seems like more HDMI flakiness.



Just one more possible item, which it sounds like you have been back and forth enough to solve.


When connected directly to the projector, try setting the Tosh output to a specific rate, 1080p60 or whatever (likely whatever your projector can scale or native rate).


When you hook back to the D2 and setup the source, make sure to not boot the Anthem on the Tosh source. Startup the Anthem on the other source and switch to the input with the Tosh already powered on & warmed up.


Press play. Even in later sw iterations, the Anthem has issues with some HDMI sources.


Tim


----------



## randman

Bob - I made sure all cables from the HD-A30 were inserted properly into the D2. I also tried using a different HDMI input into the D2. Also tried a different HDMI cable. No luck.

If the A30 were connected directly to my projector, I do get a picture. But if connected to the D2, no picture and no sound. Not even the setup menu. I exchanged the unit and I have the same issue with the new one.


rmarcoot - I don't see a "voutput" in the remote or something similar.


I'll play around some more and also see if other folks have similar issues. This is the very first HDMI product I've purchased that actually had zero picture or sound into the D2. Other HDMI sources I've had have worked (more or less) fine - TiVo Series 3 (HD), PS3, Denon DVD, HD Camcorder. But this Toshiba just doesn't work....



Tim - I'll give your suggestion a try later (wife wants to watch something in Blu-Ray  ).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm really surprised we haven't had any reports of "test" software newer than V1.12s by now. It's been quite a while. And it continues to amaze me that Anthem hasn't made it a priority to replace the V1.11 software still on their web site. For those who've forgotten, V1.11 was released on Nov 24, 2006.


Meanwhile, our rate of folks posting here who needed help from Anthem tech support (issues beyond what we could get them past in this thread) has been pretty steady -- actually a good sign since Anthem has obviously sold more units by now so one would normally expect the problem reporting rate to increase -- but we've had far fewer posts on resolution of problems by Anthem than earlier this year.


Anyone care to comment on recent contact with Anthem? We need more news/rumors, and we should be hearing about folks getting fixes.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders

Sorry, Bob. Nothing new to report here. I have a new unit with 1.2 presinstalled. My only contact with Anthem (Nick via phone) was related to the HDMI/component use from my DVR as discussed in length above.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks Tim.


For any newbies: V1.2 is supposedly the same thing as V1.12s except factory installed.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

My salesman/tech guy came over last Wednesday and tweaked my sound and somewhat my picture(ISF guy in a couple of weeks)

Sound is great, great and picture also. Had cousins over to see Frieda and they commented on the wonderful colors and sound.

I agree with Bob, when do we get an approved update on line. I do have 1.2s that Nick sent me. But, per Bob, I have not installed it. I am still running on 1.1 and no issues.

But, no HD-DVD or blue ray.

Gerry


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11778110
> 
> 
> Anyone care to comment on recent contact with Anthem? We need more news/rumors, and we should be hearing about folks getting fixes.
> 
> --Bob



I've had my (2nd) replacement unit since July 24 running factory 1.2 with zero problems. My only complaint is that I'd like to see the HDMI handshake process sped up by 2-3 orders of magnitude, as the blue screen is annoying when a handshake is legitimately required. But I'd much rather have Room EQ, so I'm not going to bug them about anything non-critical.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11778110
> 
> 
> I'm really surprised we haven't had any reports of "test" software newer than V1.12s by now. It's been quite a while. And it continues to amaze me that Anthem hasn't made it a priority to replace the V1.11 software still on their web site. For those who've forgotten, V1.11 was released on Nov 24, 2006.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, our rate of folks posting here who needed help from Anthem tech support (issues beyond what we could get them past in this thread) has been pretty steady -- actually a good sign since Anthem has obviously sold more units by now so one would normally expect the problem reporting rate to increase -- but we've had far fewer posts on resolution of problems by Anthem than earlier this year.
> 
> 
> Anyone care to comment on recent contact with Anthem? We need more news/rumors, and we should be hearing about folks getting fixes.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I cannot agree more with the sentiments expressed that it's very mysterious that Anthem has not put a stake in the ground with respect to a full production release to the D2/AVM50 constituents. It is from a business perspective very disturbing that there has not even been an attempt to explain the lack of progress on this issue.


I live within a 30 min drive of the Anthem HQ and would be very willing to represent this group in pursuing a position from a senior member of the company in person if enough members of this group felt that it would be appropriate.


I would just like to think that this issue is more than my personal agenda and does reflect a sincere concern of a majority of D2.AVM owners.



Peter


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/11782448
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I cannot agree more with the sentiments expressed that it's very mysterious that Anthem has not put a stake in the ground with respect to a full production release to the D2/AVM50 constituents. It is from a business perspective very disturbing that there has not even been an attempt to explain the lack of progress on this issue.
> 
> 
> I live within a 30 min drive of the Anthem HQ and would be very willing to represent this group in pursuing a position from a senior member of the company in person if enough members of this group felt that it would be appropriate.
> 
> 
> I would just like to think that this issue is more than my personal agenda and does reflect a sincere concern of a majority of D2.AVM owners.
> 
> 
> 
> Peter



You've got my proxy, although I would bet that things are delayed for all the usual reasons and they don't want to overpromise any more than they already have!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/11782448
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I cannot agree more with the sentiments expressed that it's very mysterious that Anthem has not put a stake in the ground with respect to a full production release to the D2/AVM50 constituents. It is from a business perspective very disturbing that there has not even been an attempt to explain the lack of progress on this issue.
> 
> 
> I live within a 30 min drive of the Anthem HQ and would be very willing to represent this group in pursuing a position from a senior member of the company in person if enough members of this group felt that it would be appropriate.
> 
> 
> I would just like to think that this issue is more than my personal agenda and does reflect a sincere concern of a majority of D2.AVM owners.
> 
> 
> 
> Peter



I would certainly like to see the new FW update officially posted on the website too.


----------



## Milt99

nine ball,

You've got my vote too, although I have V1.12, it does seem very odd and really does deserve a response from Anthem.

Thanks.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/11782510
> 
> 
> You've got my proxy, although I would bet that things are delayed for all the usual reasons and they don't want to overpromise any more than they already have!



Thank you. The rationale you have suggested is OK for the Best Buy consumer but our community has a collective wisdom and IQ that I believe is higher than room temperature.


I don't want or expect the management to over promise. I would like a clear explanation to what the outstanding issues are that are preventing them from synchronizing the public betas with the public full production release.


I AM A huge supporter of the company and it's flagship products. So my interests are to encourage them to listen to the emerging chorus of owners who are asking for a stable release and either indicate that it is a priority for them or provide some reasonable explanation for the delay.


Someone suggested a while back that the component evolution in the current machines has made difficult if not impossible to release a one size fits all for the new and old D2's. If this is in fact the case then fess up and suggest an upgrade path so that the early adopters can catch up. Anthem has a terrific reputation for quality and thanks to Nick ....service.


I still believe that Anthem is still not under threat with respect to single product integration on a feature set with any of the competition. But success in this industry is only as good as your last mistake. The longer they leave the 1.11 version on the web site the weaker the supposed value proposition for updatability over the competition. I am still running 1.10 so adding equalization to this configuration is just silly and probably a disaster in the making. I want to upgrade to a version that Anthem can confidently assure me will work with any additional functionality they wish to add in the near future.


Tim, I disagree with the assumption that there is any comparable full production released product on the market today. And this is NOT silly fan boy blind obsession speaking.....its just a statement (no pun intended) of fact!


My sense is that this whole confusing script is a worsening case of bad management from a business point of view. It needs to get fixed and soon.


Peter


PS. If I'm wrong and I could well be then it need not be discussed any further but if there is any consensus from this audience who really cares about the company and its excellent technology then I will offer to take up the challenge and drive out to Anthem for a discussion with a list of issues to be clarified on behalf of all of us.........or not.


----------



## SilentSlug




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/11765830
> 
> 
> Has anyone successfully run a Mac to the D2 via DVI=>HDMI?



I am running a new Mac Mini to the D2 using a DVI to HDMI cable. I am running v1.12s of the D2 firmware and find that the Mac works fine at 1920 x 1080 but only in an interlaced mode. I guess that might be a problem for fast moving graphics likes games but it does me just fine. I was using a $20 belkin cable but would occasionally get the vertical sparklies on the screen. Changing to a transparent cable [>$200 :-(] fixed the sparklies [  ]


----------



## PaulT_BC

FYI here is a good article with Nick @ Anthem regarding HDMI and it's implementation within 50/D2 and the problems he sees with the 'standard':

http://www.hometheatersound.com/feat...etheaterphile/


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/11784585
> 
> 
> Tim, I disagree with the assumption that there is any comparable full production released product on the market today. And this is NOT silly fan boy blind obsession speaking.....its just a statement (no pun intended) of fact!



Peter,


If this lob was at me, I don't think I made a contention that there was, I just want product improvement. More than future product improvement, I want the basics, product stability.


My problem, running the latest software is I still get RGB intermittent flips, long blue screens between sources, and voodoo like workarounds to get Blu-ray players to work. I PRAY that 12s isn't the "real" release.


I'm guessing a properly HDMI-switching receiver with good video processing is on the horizon. It would be nice if it was an Anthem.


Tim


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/11785620
> 
> 
> FYI here is a good article with Nick @ Anthem regarding HDMI and it's implementation within 50/D2 and the problems he sees with the 'standard':
> 
> http://www.hometheatersound.com/feat...etheaterphile/



Thanks Paul for that Link to Nick's Interview.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11778110
> 
> 
> I'm really surprised we haven't had any reports of "test" software newer than V1.12s by now. It's been quite a while. And it continues to amaze me that Anthem hasn't made it a priority to replace the V1.11 software still on their web site. For those who've forgotten, V1.11 was released on Nov 24, 2006.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, our rate of folks posting here who needed help from Anthem tech support (issues beyond what we could get them past in this thread) has been pretty steady -- actually a good sign since Anthem has obviously sold more units by now so one would normally expect the problem reporting rate to increase -- but we've had far fewer posts on resolution of problems by Anthem than earlier this year.
> 
> 
> Anyone care to comment on recent contact with Anthem? We need more news/rumors, and we should be hearing about folks getting fixes.
> 
> --Bob



In response to my Toshiba HD-A30 HD DVD player not working with my D2, Anthem just sent me firmware v1.20 (but I think you mentioned before that it's basically the same as 1.12s?). I haven't applied it yet (this weekend when I get more time). If v1.20 is the same as 1.12s, anyone have any comments on potential issues that 1.20/1.12s may have? I'm currently on 1.11g.


Thanks.


----------



## radtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SilentSlug* /forum/post/11785093
> 
> 
> I am running a new Mac Mini to the D2 using a DVI to HDMI cable. I am running v1.12s of the D2 firmware and find that the Mac works fine at 1920 x 1080 but only in an interlaced mode. I guess that might be a problem for fast moving graphics likes games but it does me just fine. I was using a $20 belkin cable but would occasionally get the vertical sparklies on the screen. Changing to a transparent cable [>$200 :-(] fixed the sparklies [  ]



I am also running a mac mini through the D2 with excellent results. I am using a DVI-HDMI cable from monoprice. Search on "mac mini color inversion" for discussion and resolution of a weird problem with inverted colors that I had on initial connection that was solved through a key sequence on the mac. Not sure what is meant by interlaced mode as above, I am just running at 1920 x 1080 using V 1.11e of the D2 software. Also using a cool bluetooth keyboard/trackpad combo (logitech edge dinovo) with the mac which is great for web browsing in the theater.


RT


----------



## uberanalyst

Just wanted to provide my perspective on Anthem support.


I was having problems with the known "480i component input bug" on my D2, where a "combing effect" could be seen on video output, and the D2 reported the input resolution as 1440 x 480 pixels. I was running 1.11e firmware.


I sent an email to Anthem customer support, and within 2 hours I got an email response from Nick on how to obtain version 1.12s from a secure website. And then the next morning I got another email from someone else at Anthem who emailed me the 1.12s firmware as an email file attachment. So Anthem deserves kudos for their responsiveness.


Then, after upgrading the D2 to 1.12s without any problems, I was pleasantly surprised at the improvement. After switching my ancient Toshiba DVD player from progressive to interlaced component outputs, and then letting the D2 do the deinterlacing, the picture REALLY improved.


I'm still waiting for a decent combo HD-DVD/BluRay player to buy, but in the meantime, my D2 generates one hell of an upconverted 1080p HDMI signal to my JVC DLA-RS1 projector; I never knew standard def DVD could look that good! (And the D2 also works perfectly with the 1080i HDMI input from my high-def TIVO.)


So I'm a very happy camper...

- Dave


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/11791886
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting for a decent combo HD-DVD/BluRay player to buy,
> 
> - Dave



Hopefully that wait will not be too much longer.


The Samsung BD-UP5000 might or night not be

showing up this month. It is hard to be sure

which rumor of Availability to BELIEVE. But when

it is available - I will be replacing 3 DVD players

in my rack with one.


----------



## ddimberio

OK. I have always been the extreme novice on this thread and I do have a question. And I apologize if I have already missed material on this - hopefully I am missing something obvious. Anyhow, I upgraded to software 1.20 today from 1.11c. This was done because I finally added my JVC HD1 to my HT. I upgraded in order to get the two different video setups from the same zone. I am running HDMI to the JVC and Component to the TV. Long story short, I am not getting a picture at all on the TV. I have tried and tried different settings but to no avail. Are the issues with component out on v1.20? Any thoughts would be helpful. Thanks!


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/11790097
> 
> 
> In response to my Toshiba HD-A30 HD DVD player not working with my D2, Anthem just sent me firmware v1.20 (but I think you mentioned before that it's basically the same as 1.12s?). I haven't applied it yet (this weekend when I get more time). If v1.20 is the same as 1.12s, anyone have any comments on potential issues that 1.20/1.12s may have? I'm currently on 1.11g.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Just as a point of reference, I have a client who has and AVM 50 with v1.12s and a Toshiba HD-A2 and not a problem since it was first installed.


I know it's not the A30 but for what it's worth I figured I'd share.


Good luck.


Jim


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/11795620
> 
> 
> OK. I have always been the extreme novice on this thread and I do have a question. And I apologize if I have already missed material on this - hopefully I am missing something obvious. Anyhow, I upgraded to software 1.20 today from 1.11c. This was done because I finally added my JVC HD1 to my HT. I upgraded in order to get the two different video setups from the same zone. I am running HDMI to the JVC and Component to the TV. Long story short, I am not getting a picture at all on the TV. I have tried and tried different settings but to no avail. Are the issues with component out on v1.20? Any thoughts would be helpful. Thanks!



Bob will walk you through the right way, but I needed to set up a Zone 2 which effectively copies Zone 1 to work a similar scenario. Even though it's the same room. Even though it's the same speaker layout. I have macros to trigger the Zone 2 on and off and separate activities, like HDTivo & MTivo (for monitor). Very kludgey but it works.


----------



## ddimberio

OK. I finally got video with the PJ and the TV, but the component picture (on TV) seems unstable and the handshake is just as long as the HDMI handshake - if not longer - is that normal?


----------



## [email protected]

Bob,

I noticed that flash 2003 (post #9179) had a similar blue screen issue like the one I asked Nick at Anthem about and I wanted to know If this problem was resolved with a firmware update. I was sent AVM50 version 1.2 software but am a little reluctant to use it. Should I wait for a more stable version?


This is what I asked Nick... "I am seeing a blue screen periodically but it only lasts for a second or two. It usually happens at the beginning of a DVD or sometimes (intermittently) during playback of a movie when the scene changes. I have a Denon 2900 DVD player connected to the AVM50 via component. I have tried all of the component jacks on the AVM50, tried new component cables (


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/11797252
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I noticed that flash 2003 (post #9179) had a similar blue screen issue like the one I asked Nick at Anthem about and I wanted to know If this problem was resolved with a firmware update. I was sent AVM50 version 1.2 software but am a little reluctant to use it. Should I wait for a more stable version?
> 
> 
> This is what I asked Nick... "I am seeing a blue screen periodically but it only lasts for a second or two. It usually happens at the beginning of a DVD or sometimes (intermittently) during playback of a movie when the scene changes. I have a Denon 2900 DVD player connected to the AVM50 via component. I have tried all of the component jacks on the AVM50, tried new component cables (


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/11796140
> 
> 
> OK. I finally got video with the PJ and the TV, but the component picture (on TV) seems unstable and the handshake is just as long as the HDMI handshake - if not longer - is that normal?



Component video should sync up nearly instantaneously. If it is taking a while for Component video to sync up, or if the sync is unstable, then something is wrong.


Understand that you can't get HDMI input to go to Component output due to copy protection. So you need to hook up Component cables to the Anthem from your HDMI sources AS WELL, *AND* use the Zone 2 Component video outputs to your TV, *AND* set the video going to Zone 2 to be the UNprocessed video from a source -- either as selected on the Main path or separately on the Zone 2 path as you find more convenient.


Now since the Zone 2 Component video output going to your TV is UNprocessed, you need to make sure each source is sending a signal that your TV can understand -- the Anthem won't modify that signal. So for example the video output resolution from each Component video source device has to be a resolution your TV will understand on its Component video input, and you don't want to be playing with stuff such as 24fps video from your sources.


In addition, some source devices may not send out good Component video on their Component video outputs if they have an HDMI cable attached.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/11795620
> 
> 
> OK. I have always been the extreme novice on this thread and I do have a question. And I apologize if I have already missed material on this - hopefully I am missing something obvious. Anyhow, I upgraded to software 1.20 today from 1.11c. This was done because I finally added my JVC HD1 to my HT. I upgraded in order to get the two different video setups from the same zone. I am running HDMI to the JVC and Component to the TV. Long story short, I am not getting a picture at all on the TV. I have tried and tried different settings but to no avail. Are the issues with component out on v1.20? Any thoughts would be helpful. Thanks!



Your comment here about 2 different video setups on the same zone has me worried that you think you can specify processing for the Anthem's Main Component ouput that is different from the processing for its HDMI output.


The Anthem only has one video processor, so there's no way to get two different styles of processed video output from it at the same time.


The two video ouput setups are like the two speaker configuration setups. You assign one to use when you are watching a particular type of source content. But that doesn't mean you get different video at the same time out of the HDMI output and the processed Component video output -- any more than you could get two different surround speaker audio results at the same time. The only way to get different video out the Component output is to TURN OFF processing for that output so that Component video input from the selected source is just "passed through".

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11797392
> 
> 
> Component video should sync up nearly instantaneously. If it is taking a while for Component video to sync up, or if the sync is unstable, then something is wrong.
> 
> 
> Understand that you can't get HDMI input to go to Component output due to copy protection. So you need to hook up Component cables to the Anthem from your HDMI sources AS WELL, *AND* use the Zone 2 Component video outputs to your TV, *AND* set the video going to Zone 2 to be the UNprocessed video from a source -- either as selected on the Main path or separately on the Zone 2 path as you find more convenient.
> 
> 
> Now since the Zone 2 Component video output going to your TV is UNprocessed, you need to make sure each source is sending a signal that your TV can understand -- the Anthem won't modify that signal. So for example the video output resolution from each Component video source device has to be a resolution your TV will understand on its Component video input, and you don't want to be playing with stuff such as 24fps video from your sources.
> 
> 
> In addition, some source devices may not send out good Component video on their Component video outputs if they have an HDMI cable attached.
> 
> --Bob



OK, once again, thanks a bunch Bob. I was misled by Anthem tech support on this issue. I will set the entire TV function (component zone 2) and send processing to the JVC via HDMI. Thanks again.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11786000
> 
> 
> Peter,
> 
> 
> If this lob was at me, I don't think I made a contention that there was, I just want product improvement. More than future product improvement, I want the basics, product stability.
> 
> 
> My problem, running the latest software is I still get RGB intermittent flips, long blue screens between sources, and voodoo like workarounds to get Blu-ray players to work. I PRAY that 12s isn't the "real" release.
> 
> 
> I'm guessing a properly HDMI-switching receiver with good video processing is on the horizon. It would be nice if it was an Anthem.
> 
> 
> Tim



Tim......you are too sensitive.......we are both on the same page on this one in fact I have a litany of concerns that I already know get addressed with versions greater than 1.10. Others have confirmed this along the way through this encyclopedia!!!! The upgrade process for me is not trivial and I desparately want a stable platform from which I can begin calibrating my ruby with the used to be new bulb that is now on its way to adolesence. So we are in complete agreement......Anthem, give us a stable public release please as your highest priority so that we can all start from the same place.


The stuff I lobbed Tim was that even with individual brands offering improved aspects regarding various capabilities of competing products, Anthem still leads the pack overall on the comprehensivness of the integrated audio and video processing capabilities coming from a single box. I'm not suggesting they won't or can't be eclipsed but while they are currently leading the pack it would be a shame to see them drop the ball from a management standpoint and not recognize the importance of delivering on the basic promises before the competition catches on. Having said that I too want stability to be job number one before that public release is posted to the web site. I just want to know why its taking so long to do what should be patently obvious to anyone in this business.


Peter


----------



## flash2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11797357
> 
> 
> Poster FLASH2003 said he was going to try a few things and get back to us, but there has been no follow up so far. He was running original V1.11. The V1.11g version you have installed has Component video fixes, but I don't know of any Component video fixes beyond that in V1.2.
> 
> 
> Nevertheless, if Nick thinks you should go to V1.2 as the next step in sorting out your problem, then that's the right thing to do.
> 
> --Bob




Hi all,


Sorry to have taken so long to get back to you about the results of my D2 troubleshooting but I have a deadline at work looming and I have not had much time to spend with my HT recently.


Here's what I have done so far.


On top of Bob's initial suggestions, I have:


1) Verified that the component cable was properly seated at both ends.

2) Replaced a 10 foot component cable with a shorter one (approx. 6 feet).

3) Tried my old Panasonic A120 DVD player (480i only) instead of my SimAudio Orbiter.


None of these steps have been successful thus far at solving the issue. The blue screen still flashes as the movie starts.


I will try connecting my DVD player directly to the projector as a last step, hopefully later tonight. Looks like I have the same issue as [email protected]


I guess I'll be sending an e-mail off to Nick. I’ll let you all know what he says.



One more thing: I noticed that rental DVDs (especially really beat up copies) give the D2 more "blue screen grief" than do the pristine ones in my collection. Has anyone else who is experiencing the blue screen issue noticed this?


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11792517
> 
> 
> Hopefully that wait will not be too much longer.
> 
> 
> The Samsung BD-UP5000 might or night not be
> 
> showing up this month. It is hard to be sure
> 
> which rumor of Availability to BELIEVE. But when
> 
> it is available - I will be replacing 3 DVD players
> 
> in my rack with one.



Hey, drhankz, I hope that the 3 players are not going down to the basement with the rest of the old no longer relevant AV equipment.










Seriously, I am likely to replace three on my rack also.


My three xtras will go into a second system.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/11769034
> 
> 
> Well, I got the Toshiba HD-A30 HD DVD player, one of their 3rd generation HD DVD players. Great deal (9 free HD DVDs from BB - select any 2 from the store + 2 in the box + 5 from the mail).
> 
> 
> I connected the HD-A30 to HDMI 1 of my D2 (version 1.11g firmware). I setup my D2 to use DVD 4 with HDMI 1 as the input scaler. I was all excited to sit back and watch a move, but I get no picture or sound out of the HDMI. I only get the Anthem blue screen. I can see the setup menu of the HD-A30 when using its composite out, but nothing out of its HDMI out (and there is nothing in setup to tell it to start using HDMI). I've tried both "Yes" and "No" in the 'HDMI Repeater' setting of the D2. Anyone else having this issue with the HD-A30 or an earlier generation Toshiba HD DVD player?
> 
> 
> Later, I'll try using a different HDMI cable (I'm using this same brand HDMI cable with other HDMI sources including my PS3). If that doesn't work, I can try connecting my projector directly to the HD-A30. If still no luck, I'll exchange it at BB. Any other thoughts?



The weird part of this problem is that the D2 got no sound and no video from the HD-A30. In fact, the D2 reported (when clicking on the Status button) that there was "No Signal" for both video and audio. I've had HDMI issues in the past, but nothing this strange (i.e. absolutely no video and no audio).


Anyway, that was with version 1.11g of the firmware. I upgraded to version 1.20, and now the HD-A30 works with the D2! So now, I can enjoy the HD-DVD movies that are not available in Blu-Ray. Personally, I'm pretty impressed with my Sony PS3 - it's amazing how much faster it is when turning on and loading a DVD, as compared to the HD-A30, Toshiba's 3rd generation player.


Anyway, at least now, when renting from Netflix, there's more possibility of getting a high-def movie now that I have both HD-DVD and Blu-Ray!!!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/11803548
> 
> 
> Tim......you are too sensitive.......we are both on the same page
> 
> 
> Peter



That's me, Mr Sensitive

















I think the footsteps are getting closer....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/11807248
> 
> 
> The weird part of this problem is that the D2 got no sound and no video from the HD-A30. In fact, the D2 reported (when clicking on the Status button) that there was "No Signal" for both video and audio. I've had HDMI issues in the past, but nothing this strange (i.e. absolutely no video and no audio).
> 
> 
> Anyway, that was with version 1.11g of the firmware. I upgraded to version 1.20, and now the HD-A30 works with the D2! So now, I can enjoy the HD-DVD movies that are not available in Blu-Ray. Personally, I'm pretty impressed with my Sony PS3 - it's amazing how much faster it is when turning on and loading a DVD, as compared to the HD-A30, Toshiba's 3rd generation player.
> 
> 
> Anyway, at least now, when renting from Netflix, there's more possibility of getting a high-def movie now that I have both HD-DVD and Blu-Ray!!!



Well that's good news! Chalk up another one for the V1.12s (AKA V1.2) software.


It still puzzles me the way the A30 worked (or failed to work) when directly connected to your TV.

--Bob


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11808479
> 
> 
> Well that's good news! Chalk up another one for the V1.12s (AKA V1.2) software.
> 
> 
> It still puzzles me the way the A30 worked (or failed to work) when directly connected to your TV.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, it was puzzling that the A30 could display a picture when directly connected to my projector, but nothing at all when connected to the D2 with firmware v1.11g (regardless of the "HDMI Repeater" setting in the D2). With firmware v1.2, things work, regardless of the "HDMI Repeater" setting.


Another possible theory is that maybe it wasn't an HDMI handshake issue, but the fact that I was using "DVD 4" as the input, rather than one of the "traditional" inputs such as "DVD 1". Maybe the newer inputs (that were introduced in one of the past firmware upgrades) didn't work as well when mapping an HDMI input to a new input (although I was using the "SAT 2" input okay, but it was with analog connections). But, just a theory. I'm more inclined to blame HDMI handshaking issues.


The readme file for v1.2 had the following as one of the changes since v1.11 (although it's not clear if this change was introduced after v1.11g or not):


"Major HDMI/EDID driver changes to address capabilities of latest HD disc players and other newer sources without corruption of earlier sources, and to improve 'auto' video-out setting with DVI displays (auto relies on info from the display - if it doesn't appear that the correct output is in effect, use forced settings)."


Anyway, things work - haven't had time to watch a full HD DVD movie yet (hopefully soon). Thanks to Bob and others for helping brainstorm this issue.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Boy, reading this thread makes me back away from Anthem. It’s 300 plus pages of problem after problem after problem. I want the best theater I can possibly have but I also want it to function with out constant updates and issues. The more I read the more I wonder if the D2 isn’t a $5000.00 POS!


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/11810766
> 
> 
> Boy, reading this thread makes me back away from Anthem. It’s 300 plus pages of problem after problem after problem. I want the best theater I can possibly have but I also want it to function with out constant updates and issues. The more I read the more I wonder if the D2 isn’t a $5000.00 POS!



I own one, and if wasn't the best I would sell it today and buy the best.


You'll not read anything in these pages about audio or video quality issues. 95% of the posts relate to HDMI integration. The D2 (or any HDMI AVR) is in the difficult position of having to make a successful HDMI handshake between the components on each end (source, display) and make it look transparent. And to do so with components which have not only imperfectly implemented the HDMI spec(s), but are continually changing.


If you find an AVR with comparable A/V quality that does a significantly better job with HDMI integration, and with good technical support for the cases where they do have problems, let us know. Until then, labeling the D2, which you have never seen or heard in operation, as a POS is a statement of ignorance.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/11810766
> 
> 
> Boy, reading this thread makes me back away from Anthem. It's 300 plus pages of problem after problem after problem. I want the best theater I can possibly have but I also want it to function with out constant updates and issues. The more I read the more I wonder if the D2 isn't a $5000.00 POS!



I think you are pointing the finger at the wrong

TARGET. The Problem is HDMI.

*I suggest some HDMI reading*


Anthem has been WITHOUT a doubt the BEST

Manufacturer at supporting its customers and

fixing everyone else's problems.


You could pick a different vendor and have all

the same problems and NEVER EVER GET THEM

FIXED. Or you could pick Anthem who cares

about its customers. That is why this thread

is So Long.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/11677113
> 
> 
> I'll keep this as short as possible.
> 
> 
> Right now I'm running a HD-PVR Sat, Xbox360, 1080i panny plasma, Panny up-converting DVD player, Merantz receiver (used as a pre-amp) and a Bryston 9bst amp.
> 
> 
> I will be making the change to Bluray or HD DVD one of these days.
> 
> 
> My question is simple. Is the Anthem AMV50 worth the money? Will I actually be able to see and hear a tangible improvement? I have the opportunity to purchase an AMV50 for 4000.00 (cdn) no tax's. 4000.00 that's it! I could also sell my current receiver for 250/300 bucks. It's 8 months old and was used by the owner of the electronics store I've been buying my HT equipment from for years.
> 
> 
> But 4000.00 now is steep. It'll have to go on my VISA and it'll take a while to pay off. I'll be paying interest on the purchase for sure.
> 
> 
> Would the processor make that big of a difference? Is this too good a deal to pass up? Any and all advice is welcome. This one is stressing me out!



And the D2 is certainly better than anything else you own.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Now now, calm down boys. I'm certainly not attacking Anthem or any of you for choosing Anthem. My guess is most of you love working through the problems as they rear they're ugly heads. Some people enjoy spending hours and hours building model trains. Others ENJOY spending hours working through issues with their home theater. I just don't know if that would be for me. I get frustrated when things don't work.


Calling it a POS isn't fair. But at that price range you'd think there shouldn't be 300 pages of problems!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well the D2 has been out for well over a year, so you are talking about less than 1 page a day.


Besides, characterizing this as 300 pages of "problems" is not correct. Many pages are filled with folks just loving how their D2 is working. Many other pages are filled with folks looking for interesting new ways to take advantage of the flexibility it offers. Many other pages are filled with folks new to video processing who are trying to learn.


And many MANY pages are filled with repeats of old favorite problems that have been asked and answered over and over again simply because we don't chew the heads off folks who prefer to ask rather than research. I know. I answer a lot of those. Over and over again. (grin!)


This is an enthusiast thread. If it were just a gripe thread as you seem to fear there would be less than a tenth as many posts. The vast majority of the posts here are helping people, not griping that things aren't working.


And more often than not what we are helping them with is problems that, at root, are the fault of some OTHER device they own.


Then there is the issue of updates. Frankly, folks looking for plug and play should probably avoid the D2 -- as well as *EVER OTHER HDMI AUDIO VIDEO PROCESSOR SHIPPED SO FAR*! HDMI is not plug and play. It is a mess.


The difference is that Anthem is actively working to FIX issues -- even when the issues are the fault of some other company's product. Personally I would run as fast as I can away from ANY HDMI processor product that does not have a history of frequent and timely updates. But anyone scared by the concept of updates should probably stay away from the D2. Buy some other product and live with unfixed problems instead.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11811299
> 
> 
> Well the D2 has been out for well over a year, so you are talking about less than 1 page a day.
> 
> 
> Besides, characterizing this as 300 pages of "problems" is not correct. Many pages are filled with folks just loving how their D2 is working. Many other pages are filled with folks looking for interesting new ways to take advantage of the flexibility it offers. Many other pages are filled with folks new to video processing who are trying to learn.
> 
> 
> And many MANY pages are filled with repeats of old favorite problems that have been asked and answered over and over again simply because we don't chew the heads off folks who prefer to ask rather than research. I know. I answer a lot of those. Over and over again. (grin!)
> 
> 
> This is an enthusiast thread. If it were just a gripe thread as you seem to fear there would be less than a tenth as many posts. The vast majority of the posts here are helping people, not griping that things aren't working.
> 
> 
> And more often than not what we are helping them with is problems that, at root, are the fault of some OTHER device they own.
> 
> 
> Then there is the issue of updates. Frankly, folks looking for plug and play should probably avoid the D2 -- as well as *EVER OTHER HDMI AUDIO VIDEO PROCESSOR SHIPPED SO FAR*! HDMI is not plug and play. It is a mess.
> 
> 
> The difference is that Anthem is actively working to FIX issues -- even when the issues are the fault of some other company's product. Personally I would run as fast as I can away from ANY HDMI processor product that does not have a history of frequent and timely updates. But anyone scared by the concept of updates should probably stay away from the D2. Buy some other product and live with unfixed problems instead.
> 
> --Bob



Great reply Bob!


I just keep going back and forth and I know none of you care about whether or not I decided to get an Anthem processor or not.


I mean the other poster is right. The equipment I have now is CRAP! But it's crap that sounds and looks good. My Marantz receiver doesn't do HDMI switching. It's digital optical into my receiver and HDMI from my DVD player and HD PVR directly into the display and everything works perfectly.


When I want to play the 360 I grab the Harmony 880, click play game and I'm ready to game. No issues ever!


I don't know Bob, I want it because I know I KNOW it'll be so much better but I also know I won't enjoy working through issues. You should see me when my computer acts up. If it's not an easy fix I want to throw it out the window!


Hummmmm


But I do take back the POS statement. I know it's not a POS.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's a Piece 'O Sweeeeetness!


(grin!)


If you get an AVM-50 (or D2), just take your time setting it up and learning about it. It really can be made to work well. And the gains are quite dramatic.


If you run into a problem just ask here. Odds are someone here has already worked through that problem.


Also, read the collection of posts from this thread linked in the first post of this thread. That may make the process less mysterious and scary.

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio

I finally have everything running on Zone 1 and have the TV running through Zone 2 via component 2 out. (Thanks Bob for the tips) Now onto my question of the day. I am running my JVC HD1 from the Anthem with 1080p/60 to the JVC's HDMI1. Through the cable box (Motorola 6412) everything looks good and is stable on Hi-Def but when I go to standard def the image becomes unstable...flickering back and forth from the JVC saying "frequency out of range" and then flickering to the image itself. What can I do to minimize or get rid of this? Thanks All.


----------



## The Bogg

Hi all,

I've been lurking here for a while (and occasionally posting). My home theater is getting ready for construction and I'm getting ready to upgrade the D1 to D2. It's a great product and there's nothing else in the price range (or higher some may say) that compares as a package. I'm still a bit nervous because of the hdmi issues, which I recognize aren't necessarily Anthem's fault.


Way back in the thread people were adamant that hdmi 1.3 was unnecessary and I was led to believe that any hddvd/bluray discs with advanced authoring were not "allowed" to send the raw dts hd master or dolby tru hd signals across the hdmi interface. I've read things lately that imply that isn't true. I don't know of any upcoming players that will decode dts hd master but some are coming out that will send it (and dolby truehd) across hdmi to be decoded in the processor/receiver. Which brings me to the fact that the D2 will not be able to decode them, nor will it be able to take advantage of 7.1 when available. I know, I know, show me the software that takes advantage of this yada yada. Well it will be here at some point. Not that I really care because I'm going to stick with my 6.3 setup anyway. As long as players are able to decode all of the formats and send them via pcm it doesn't matter, but it's not looking that way right now. Hope I'm wrong!


Fire up the incubator, I'll be expecting the bouncy mascots STAT when the upgrade is complete!


----------



## The Bogg

Ooooh, just thought of a question some of you might be able to answer:


I plan on running a projector via hdmi. I'd like to hook up a small lcd to svideo or whatever for when I want to make setup adjustments without firing up the projector...any of you guys doing this and what brand/size lcd did you find? I can't find anything smaller than 15 inches, was hoping for 6-8 inch screen....

thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/11812837
> 
> 
> I finally have everything running on Zone 1 and have the TV running through Zone 2 via component 2 out. (Thanks Bob for the tips) Now onto my question of the day. I am running my JVC HD1 from the Anthem with 1080p/60 to the JVC's HDMI1. Through the cable box (Motorola 6412) everything looks good and is stable on Hi-Def but when I go to standard def the image becomes unstable...flickering back and forth from the JVC saying "frequency out of range" and then flickering to the image itself. What can I do to minimize or get rid of this? Thanks All.



Make sure that Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO is set for the Anthem input you are using for the Motorola box.


Make sure that Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF is set as well when that input is the currently selected input.


If you have TWO input definitions that you are using, one for HDTV channels and one for SDTV channels, for whatever reason, make sure each of them is set to use the correct one of the two Anthem Video Output definitions found in the V1.2 software. If you have the wrong Anthem Video Output definition assigned for use when viewing your SDTV input, then you may be sending something you don't want to the projector.


-----------------------------------------------------------


While viewing SDTV channels, go to Video Source Adjust / Info and report what it is showing for both video input and ouput signals.


-----------------------------------------------------------


The HDMI output from the Motorola box is not very good. It pays to make sure you are using a very good HDMI cable between it and the Anthem because just about ANY signal damage will cause the Motorola to get upset. Alternatively, you can use Component video and Optical audio from the Motorola box to avoid its HDMI cruftiness.


Go into the "special" video setup menu in the Motorola to confirm it's output settings. You reach this menu as follows:


* Press Power on the Motorola remote to turn off the 6412.


* With the 6412 still turned off, press Menu on the Motorola remote to get into the "special" menu.


* In the first few lines of that menu, set 16:9 TV, and 1080i for HDTV output. Set 480i for SDTV output for best imaging, or leave it at 1080i if you don't mind lower quality SDTV but want to reduce the number of HDMI handshakes that have to happen.


* Scroll to the line for additional HDMI settings and press Right Arrow to get to that page.


* Confirm that you have HDMI (vs. DVI), YCbCr 4:4:4 (vs. RGB), and Auto Audio choosen.


* Go back to the first page using the line towards the bottom of that second page.


* Press Power on the Motorola remote to save your settings.


* Press Power again to return to normal viewing.


Be aware that if the Motorola box ever gets upset with the HDMI connection, it may unexpectedly revert some or all of these settings back to its default settings, which are 4:3Letterbox, 480p, DVI, RGB, and no audio.


---------------------------------------


Be aware that not all of the firmware updates for these Motorola boxes have been pushed out by all cable companies. You can check the Wikipedia article on "How to Use Motorola DVRs" for what's known about the various software & firmware releases, and you can check the Setup / Cable Setup / Show Configuration page in the normal Motorola menus to see which software and firmware are currently installed on your box:

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR 


Also be aware that the 6412 is used in markets that still have a mix of digital and analog channels on the cable. The analog channels will be SDTV of course. If the problems you are having are on those channels, then you may simply have a crufty analog cable signal and the cable box keeps losing lock on it, which means the Anthem sees no video, which means the Anthem sends nothing to the projector, which means the projector complains. Or you could have a bad 6412.


----------------------------------------------------


A momentary loss of video from the 6412 due to a bad analog cable signal or a faulty 6412 wouldn't be seen all that much on a Component connection to your old TV. But now with HDMI to the projector, the signal loss means the Anthem has to redo the HDMI handshake when the signal comes back. So you will have a 1-2 second glitch that's harder to ignore.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/11812900
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I've been lurking here for a while (and occasionally posting). My home theater is getting ready for construction and I'm getting ready to upgrade the D1 to D2. It's a great product and there's nothing else in the price range (or higher some may say) that compares as a package. I'm still a bit nervous because of the hdmi issues, which I recognize aren't necessarily Anthem's fault.
> 
> 
> Way back in the thread people were adamant that hdmi 1.3 was unnecessary and I was led to believe that any hddvd/bluray discs with advanced authoring were not "allowed" to send the raw dts hd master or dolby tru hd signals across the hdmi interface. I've read things lately that imply that isn't true. I don't know of any upcoming players that will decode dts hd master but some are coming out that will send it (and dolby truehd) across hdmi to be decoded in the processor/receiver. Which brings me to the fact that the D2 will not be able to decode them, nor will it be able to take advantage of 7.1 when available. I know, I know, show me the software that takes advantage of this yada yada. Well it will be here at some point. Not that I really care because I'm going to stick with my 6.3 setup anyway. As long as players are able to decode all of the formats and send them via pcm it doesn't matter, but it's not looking that way right now. Hope I'm wrong!
> 
> 
> Fire up the incubator, I'll be expecting the bouncy mascots STAT when the upgrade is complete!



Denon has announced the first Blu-Ray player that does internal decoding of DTS-HD MA properly. As the first, and as a Denon product, it is spendy. It is supposed to ship "this fall" according to their press release.


Every Blu-Ray player announced after the end of October is required to be a Blu-Ray player profile 1.1 player. These are the players where it really matters whether decoding is done in the player since these are the players that feature in-player audio mixing. Denon's new player is the first profile 1.1 player announced.


The chip sets for doing DTS-HD MA decoding in the player are available at reasonable cost, but there's a backlog getting player designs through DTS' certification process. Right now I'm expecting DTS-HD MA decoding to show up in players after Christmas.


Personally, I'm perfectly happy not buying a Blu-Ray player until I can get a profile 1.1 player that includes internal DTS-HD MA decoding (done right) at a decent price. But that's just me. I'm not at all worried as to whether such players will become available.


------------------------------


You answered your own question as regards 7.1. The benefits are very much at the margins.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/11812917
> 
> 
> Ooooh, just thought of a question some of you might be able to answer:
> 
> 
> I plan on running a projector via hdmi. I'd like to hook up a small lcd to svideo or whatever for when I want to make setup adjustments without firing up the projector...any of you guys doing this and what brand/size lcd did you find? I can't find anything smaller than 15 inches, was hoping for 6-8 inch screen....
> 
> thanks



Send a PM to LEVESQUE. He's doing this and I'm pretty sure he's using an LCD smaller than 15 inches.

--Bob


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11813445
> 
> 
> Make sure that Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO is set for the Anthem input you are using for the Motorola box.
> 
> 
> Make sure that Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF is set as well when that input is the currently selected input.
> 
> 
> If you have TWO input definitions that you are using, one for HDTV channels and one for SDTV channels, for whatever reason, make sure each of them is set to use the correct one of the two Anthem Video Output definitions found in the V1.2 software. If you have the wrong Anthem Video Output definition assigned for use when viewing your SDTV input, then you may be sending something you don't want to the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> While viewing SDTV channels, go to Video Source Adjust / Info and report what it is showing for both video input and ouput signals.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The HDMI output from the Motorola box is not very good. It pays to make sure you are using a very good HDMI cable between it and the Anthem because just about ANY signal damage will cause the Motorola to get upset. Alternatively, you can use Component video and Optical audio from the Motorola box to avoid its HDMI cruftiness.
> 
> 
> Go into the "special" video setup menu in the Motorola to confirm it's output settings. You reach this menu as follows:
> 
> 
> * Press Power on the Motorola remote to turn off the 6412.
> 
> 
> * With the 6412 still turned off, press Menu on the Motorola remote to get into the "special" menu.
> 
> 
> * In the first few lines of that menu, set 16:9 TV, and 1080i for HDTV output. Set 480i for SDTV output for best imaging, or leave it at 1080i if you don't mind lower quality SDTV but want to reduce the number of HDMI handshakes that have to happen.
> 
> 
> * Scroll to the line for additional HDMI settings and press Right Arrow to get to that page.
> 
> 
> * Confirm that you have HDMI (vs. DVI), YCbCr 4:4:4 (vs. RGB), and Auto Audio choosen.
> 
> 
> * Go back to the first page using the line towards the bottom of that second page.
> 
> 
> * Press Power on the Motorola remote to save your settings.
> 
> 
> * Press Power again to return to normal viewing.
> 
> 
> Be aware that if the Motorola box ever gets upset with the HDMI connection, it may unexpectedly revert some or all of these settings back to its default settings, which are 4:3Letterbox, 480p, DVI, RGB, and no audio.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Be aware that not all of the firmware updates for these Motorola boxes have been pushed out by all cable companies. You can check the Wikipedia article on "How to Use Motorola DVRs" for what's known about the various software & firmware releases, and you can check the Setup / Cable Setup / Show Configuration page in the normal Motorola menus to see which software and firmware are currently installed on your box:
> 
> http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR
> 
> 
> Also be aware that the 6412 is used in markets that still have a mix of digital and analog channels on the cable. The analog channels will be SDTV of course. If the problems you are having are on those channels, then you may simply have a crufty analog cable signal and the cable box keeps losing lock on it, which means the Anthem sees no video, which means the Anthem sends nothing to the projector, which means the projector complains. Or you could have a bad 6412.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> A momentary loss of video from the 6412 due to a bad analog cable signal or a faulty 6412 wouldn't be seen all that much on a Component connection to your old TV. But now with HDMI to the projector, the signal loss means the Anthem has to redo the HDMI handshake when the signal comes back. So you will have a 1-2 second glitch that's harder to ignore.
> 
> --Bob




Bob saves the day again!! I had Frame Lock "ON" for whatever reason. Now that it is off, things are working perfectly! Thanks Again...what a great thread. Everything else you suggested is setup properly.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/11813745
> 
> 
> Bob saves the day again!! I had Frame Lock "ON" for whatever reason. Now that it is off, things are working perfectly! Thanks Again...what a great thread. Everything else you suggested is setup properly.



Good news! I always get a kick out of people finally getting reliable HDMI from those silly Motorola set top boxes....


(grin!)


----------



## Milt99

Don't blame Anthem for this thread, it's all Bob's fault.


OhDee, you are forgiven I guess but _anybody_ coming here and trashing Anthem equipment in general is not going to raise their perceived AQ\\PQ IQ.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/11814232
> 
> 
> Don't blame Anthem for this thread, it's all Bob's fault.



Nah, LEVESQUE gets the blame. And Kris Deering. If it hadn't been for them I'd likely never have gotten my own D2.


(grin!)


[It also helped that my Lexicon chose to fry itself shortly after the D2 started shipping. I can put off buying stuff for all sorts of reasons, but when your current stuff dies, it does kind of push you to decide what's important.]


----------



## TREVLAN

Hello again everyone in the Anthem thread.


OK I'm 90% wanting to go with the AVM50 and MCA5 but no way can I afford both in one shot plus getting more RCA and HDMI cables and having the ISF and remote guys coming over to do they're thing so I have yet another question.


What would be my best bet and can this be done.


I was thinking using my Sony 5es receiver and adding the MCA50 to add more watts to the speakers. the sony is 120 watts.

again I'm running studio20's L/R cc590 center and adp390 surround.

can this be done and would I get any benifits out of this and again this would be a temp fix till about 6-8 months I can get the AVM50.


Or should I put up some more cash and do the avm50 and use my sony5es as the temp amp which i would not be able to upgrade for about 8 months or more depends on cash.


which way would i benifit more from or at all and again could i use the mca5 as the amp to my receiver?


I know i COULD just grab the new denon4308 and call it a day but i know I will not be happy that route.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/11812917
> 
> 
> Ooooh, just thought of a question some of you might be able to answer:
> 
> 
> I plan on running a projector via hdmi. I'd like to hook up a small lcd to svideo or whatever for when I want to make setup adjustments without firing up the projector...any of you guys doing this and what brand/size lcd did you find? I can't find anything smaller than 15 inches, was hoping for 6-8 inch screen....
> 
> thanks



A good place to look is in the car electronics section of stores such as Best Buy and Circuit City. They usually sell small LCD displays intended to be used in cars (e.g. hung from the back of a front seat) and connected to an external DVD player. I know for a fact that BB sells one (at least a couple of months ago). The only disadvantage of these items is they have composite and possibly S-Video only. If your source is only connected via HDMI, the D2 won't downconvert the signal to S-Video (I believe the same is true if the source is connected via component). Thus, for some of my devices that I would normally only connect via HDMI and component, I've also connected via S-Video just so I can take advantage of an old TV that I have for setup use when I don't want to fire up the projector. The problem is, adding S-Video and analog audio L/R cables for the sole purpose of using a small video display winds up adding a lot more wires to the back of my D2, making it a little harder to manage. Thus, IMO, it's not clear if it's worth doing this. If your equipment is in another room, that would be one advantage. Or, if you like to fire up SACDs and DVD-Audio discs a lot and want to see the display w/o firing up the projector, that would be another good use of a small external display. But for the occasional setup chore, IMO, the jury is out on whether it's worth adding a lot more cable connections.


----------



## earwit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/11812917
> 
> 
> Ooooh, just thought of a question some of you might be able to answer:
> 
> 
> I plan on running a projector via hdmi. I'd like to hook up a small lcd to svideo or whatever for when I want to make setup adjustments without firing up the projector...any of you guys doing this and what brand/size lcd did you find? I can't find anything smaller than 15 inches, was hoping for 6-8 inch screen....
> 
> thanks




I would recommend checking out

http://www.markertek.com/ 


Markertek has alot of unique electronic itiems

including multiple small lcd monitors, some rack mounted.


Bob


----------



## The Bogg

Thanks guys. Markertek have a few that look like they'd do for me, let's see if they'll ship to Canada. Yeah, svideo is all I want - just for the things you guys mentioned, adjust settings, dvd audio etc.... The car ones probably require 12volts I assume so I'd have to get an adaptor or something. Let's see what bb etc have when I'm there.


----------



## Milt99

Trevlan,

You certainly pose a tough question.

What do you have for associated equipment?

Do you have any HD sources? Cable, HD DVD, Blu-ray, all three?

If so, I would get the AVM50 and forego the amp.

IMO, you'll see(pun) a lot more enhancement from the video and audio side.

If you don't have any HD sources then I wouldn't buy the AVM50 until you do.

You won't realize the full potential of the processing.

Another question for you.

Have you considered looking at Audiogon for an amp?

I would not advise going used on the pre\\pro unless you can get a demo or a warranty with it.

Amps on the other hand are more rugged, plentiful and just less fraught with a potential downside than a pre\\pro.

In fact there's a nice MCA50 for $1,500 on Audiogon right now.

FYI, Anthem warranties are NOT transferrable.

HTH


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/11816570
> 
> 
> Thanks guys. Markertek have a few that look like they'd do for me, let's see if they'll ship to Canada. Yeah, svideo is all I want - just for the things you guys mentioned, adjust settings, dvd audio etc.... The car ones probably require 12volts I assume so I'd have to get an adaptor or something. Let's see what bb etc have when I'm there.



PM Levesque and see what he is using and where he got it. He has an automotive LCD similar to what randman suggested I believe (seems to me it is way way back in this thread somewhere so a Search might even fnd it).


edit - found it, there is a link in his post with a photo:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...CD#post8140743


----------



## TREVLAN

thx Milt99 i'll type what i have for gear besides the speakers.


sxrd60xbr2 1080p/60 for viewing ofcourse

PS3 -For blueray/dvd and some gaming hdmi cable

xbox360 for some gaming , component cable

hd cable box , component cable

xm radio

and denon 2910 for SACD and DVD-A only no movie playback. hdmi cable


the mca5 i can get brand new for 1800 w/warranty from a dealer.

so i'm not worried of the price on the amp

its the avm50 and 3600 thats killing me right now.

plus again new cables and stuff to throw me back another 500-1000 or so.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulT_BC* /forum/post/11817817
> 
> 
> PM Levesque and see what he is using and where he got it. He has an automotive LCD similar to what randman suggested I believe (seems to me it is way way back in this thread somewhere so a Search might even fnd it).
> 
> 
> edit - found it, there is a link in his post with a photo:
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...CD#post8140743



The Clarion one he's using has been discontinued but at least I've turned up a few options.


thanks guys.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/11807248
> 
> 
> The weird part of this problem is that the D2 got no sound and no video from the HD-A30. In fact, the D2 reported (when clicking on the Status button) that there was "No Signal" for both video and audio. I've had HDMI issues in the past, but nothing this strange (i.e. absolutely no video and no audio).
> 
> 
> Anyway, that was with version 1.11g of the firmware. I upgraded to version 1.20, and now the HD-A30 works with the D2! So now, I can enjoy the HD-DVD movies that are not available in Blu-Ray. Personally, I'm pretty impressed with my Sony PS3 - it's amazing how much faster it is when turning on and loading a DVD, as compared to the HD-A30, Toshiba's 3rd generation player.
> 
> 
> Anyway, at least now, when renting from Netflix, there's more possibility of getting a high-def movie now that I have both HD-DVD and Blu-Ray!!!



Just FYI, Nick mentioned the following regarding 1.11g and why it was no good for HD DVD players. At the time I applied 1.11g (a long time ago), I had PS3 for Blu-Ray but did not have (and at the time had no intention) of getting HD DVD:


"v1.11g was a beta created when the PS3 was released, and that was to fix a component-in oversampling bug we had plus an HDMI issue in the PS3. This patch corrupted operation with other hi-def disc players. Once this became known v1.11g was given only to people who were not using these players but were using component-in. The PS3 later went through updates of its own, rendering need for the patch in v1.11g (note that it's getting close to a year old) unnecessary."


Anyway, just wanted to mention this in case other folks still have 1.11g. So far, my A30 is working great (but a bit suprised how long it takes to boot up and load a disc, compared to my PS3 w/ Blu-Ray; but aside from that, it's working fine).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/11825125
> 
> 
> (but a bit suprised how long it takes to boot up and load a disc, compared to my PS3 w/ Blu-Ray;



The PS3 has a TRUE *Super Computer* Chip

in it with lots of Memory and a Hard Drive.


Not your Apples to Apples Comparison.


----------



## AnthemAVM

I have a weird one that I am hoping someone can help with.


I have my Denon 3910 hooked up to the D2 via a HDMI cable. When I have the D2 on and the CD player, it isn't getting any sound. When I turn the TV on, I get sound? Seems weird that the TV is needed to make the connection work, and ideas?


Michael


----------



## Milt99

Trevlan,

Sounds like you need a HD DVD player









Also sounds like you can get the Anthem stuff for a nice price.

I hear ya, the stuff isn't cheap.

It all depends on your priorities and how comfortable you feel with it.

I can only speak for myself and say that the improvement I hear and see with the D2 is worth it to me and will stand you in good stead for a long while which is saying quite a bit these days.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/11828085
> 
> 
> I have a weird one that I am hoping someone can help with.
> 
> 
> I have my Denon 3910 hooked up to the D2 via a HDMI cable. When I have the D2 on and the CD player, it isn't getting any sound. When I turn the TV on, I get sound? Seems weird that the TV is needed to make the connection work, and ideas?
> 
> 
> Michael



Switch the HDMI repeater settings in the CD source setup?


----------



## ddimberio

OK. I am considering "dumping" my comcast service (Using Motorola 6412 DVR's) and going with Direct TV - or Verizon FIOS potentially. Are there any warnings out there that I should be aware of concerning Direct TV HD DVR's and my D2. A few key questions I have are:


Are there any "glitches" via HDMI and the D2 and Direct TV?

Do I gain any video quality w Direct TV?

Do the Direct TV DVR's output video simultaneously over component and HDMI? (I have two displays in my media room and I am only watching 1 at a time - one via component and the other HDMI)


Thoughts and/or suggestions are greatly appreciated.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/11828207
> 
> 
> Switch the HDMI repeater settings in the CD source setup?



Thanks Mark,


How is the new house?


Michael


----------



## TREVLAN

Milt99 thx for the reply. HDDVD.. lol no thanks and I mean that with no offence.

one is good enough for me although i do love the matrix...

ok back on track.

i can get a good deal but my 10month old daughter comes first now to me.

as you can see i do like my toys but again priorities.


i really do think the problem with me is that anthem doesn't seem to be giving any updates and i get a feel from alot of ppl in this thread that anthem is getting dated.

and I don't mean anything bad in that from my end or heck i would be off to the 4308 denon and stop cluttering this great thread with my bad typing.


I don't want to spend 8000$ only to find out anthem is now making a new model and the avm50 can not be upgraded.


i "heard" that the dsp's are tapped or will be once the [room mic thing..lol sorry can't remember what it was] then what will they do?


or i can just spend 2000$ on the 4308 denon and call it a night but i just wasn't all that hyped about it when i demoed it.


i hate the state of electronics now...ok rant over.

i gotta get some sleep and do more thinking.


----------



## rudolpht

OK, ready to BURST.


14 hour work day. Want to finish day and chill with some junk TV (as I call it), the end of recent episode of Supernatural in HD. Up comes voices on HD Tivo. Blue screen. Well I think that bouncing back to a menu and back will fix that. Menu comes up in wrong RGB format (posterized colors). No video. (You say Studio RGB? It's OK, after about 3 startups I'll have to set it back and reboot to get it working.) Go to back room. Do settings to Studio RGB to "unstick it" power down and up. Back into Theater and it boots OK to where I paused the HD Tivo. What a pain in the @ss.


This lack of stability is what we call "unsat"!!!!!! Just turning on the system to watch TV should just.... work.


----------



## PooperScooper

Well at least you are not waiting for your 4th unit....


larry


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/11828366
> 
> 
> OK. I am considering "dumping" my comcast service (Using Motorola 6412 DVR's) and going with Direct TV - or Verizon FIOS potentially. Are there any warnings out there that I should be aware of concerning Direct TV HD DVR's and my D2. A few key questions I have are:
> 
> 
> Are there any "glitches" via HDMI and the D2 and Direct TV?
> 
> Do I gain any video quality w Direct TV?
> 
> Do the Direct TV DVR's output video simultaneously over component and HDMI? (I have two displays in my media room and I am only watching 1 at a time - one via component and the other HDMI)
> 
> 
> Thoughts and/or suggestions are greatly appreciated.



The comparison of services and stb features should be done in the HDTV programming and hardware forums. Set top boxes and the D2 via HDMI have been known to be "finnicky" (see Tim's post above) depending on the particular model. A lot of people use component output from stbs because of this. I just got a TivoHD to replace my 6412 and I have no intention of using HDMI to connect it.


larry


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/11828366
> 
> 
> OK. I am considering "dumping" my comcast service (Using Motorola 6412 DVR's) and going with Direct TV - or Verizon FIOS potentially. Are there any warnings out there that I should be aware of concerning Direct TV HD DVR's and my D2. A few key questions I have are:
> 
> 
> Are there any "glitches" via HDMI and the D2 and Direct TV?
> 
> Do I gain any video quality w Direct TV?
> 
> Do the Direct TV DVR's output video simultaneously over component and HDMI? (I have two displays in my media room and I am only watching 1 at a time - one via component and the other HDMI)
> 
> 
> Thoughts and/or suggestions are greatly appreciated.



1) I would not go with DirecTV. They were sued over there

advertising a better HD Picture - because it is NOT TRUE.

Also - come Feb 2009 - when all stations go digital - I doubt

their birds will be able to keep up without using extreme

compression which works against HDTV PQ.


2) As for Verizon - I'm aware of long wait times for installation

and lots of service calls to keep it going. It is bleeding edge

technology - which might be a bit early to market.


3) I would stay with Comcast. If you are like Bob a Motorola

DVR hater - then you have two other choices.


___A) Buy the new TIVO that can use the new Comcast two-way

Cable Card.


___B) Buy a Sony DHG-500 and use the new Comcast two-way

cable card. That is what I use for Comcast with my D2 - I

have (5) of the Sony DVRs. They are the BEST. And Like Rudolph

- I use Component out of the SONY DVR - Only because I don't

like the HDMI handshake delay. The SONY HDMI does work

perfectly with the D2 - just a pain in the butt handshaking

when you change channels.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/11828085
> 
> 
> I have a weird one that I am hoping someone can help with.
> 
> 
> I have my Denon 3910 hooked up to the D2 via a HDMI cable. When I have the D2 on and the CD player, it isn't getting any sound. When I turn the TV on, I get sound? Seems weird that the TV is needed to make the connection work, and ideas?
> 
> 
> Michael



Hi Michael,

I had the 3910 on a D2 for about 6 months and had lots of HDMI issues to the point where I finally moved to the Oppo 970 letting the D2 do all the work and in the bargain also got a multi-region DVD player and SACD/DVD-A thru HDMI.

There is no question the 3910 is a fantastic DVD player but the HDMI was really wonky for me. I am very happy with the Oppo which is shockingly low priced for what you get.

I hope to move back to Denon when they unleash their high end BluRay player.

What is my point? LOL...well I guess it is just that my suspicion is that the 3910 is just kinda wonky on the HDMI side so anything that happens, although they can be corrected, don't surprise me - I had all sorts of weird problems when using it.

Cheers!

/\\/\\


----------



## TREVLAN

drmabuse same deal with my denon 2910 worked great for some time ,then all of a sudden.

HDMI issues popped up.

I think it's denon..lol another reason why i'm looking more at anthem avm50 then the denon 4308


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/11830602
> 
> 
> Hi Michael,
> 
> I had the 3910 on a D2 for about 6 months and had lots of HDMI issues to the point where I finally moved to the Oppo 970 letting the D2 do all the work and in the bargain also got a multi-region DVD player and SACD/DVD-A thru HDMI.
> 
> There is no question the 3910 is a fantastic DVD player but the HDMI was really wonky for me. I am very happy with the Oppo which is shockingly low priced for what you get.
> 
> I hope to move back to Denon when they unleash their high end BluRay player.
> 
> What is my point? LOL...well I guess it is just that my suspicion is that the 3910 is just kinda wonky on the HDMI side so anything that happens, although they can be corrected, don't surprise me - I had all sorts of weird problems when using it.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> /\\/\\



My Denon was perfect tell I updated to the V1.20 on the D2. It seems to be working better, so lets hope is stay stable, like I really want to go out and buy a new CD player.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/11828366
> 
> 
> OK. I am considering "dumping" my comcast service (Using Motorola 6412 DVR's) and going with Direct TV - or Verizon FIOS potentially. Are there any warnings out there that I should be aware of concerning Direct TV HD DVR's and my D2. A few key questions I have are:
> 
> 
> Are there any "glitches" via HDMI and the D2 and Direct TV?
> 
> Do I gain any video quality w Direct TV?
> 
> Do the Direct TV DVR's output video simultaneously over component and HDMI? (I have two displays in my media room and I am only watching 1 at a time - one via component and the other HDMI)
> 
> 
> Thoughts and/or suggestions are greatly appreciated.



I would not dump Comcast. It would be a mistake. I have never been happier since leaving DirecTV. With a 107 Hour TIVO S3 and a 107 Hour TivoHD with better PQ than D-TV (and no new dish installation issues) and the Red Sox on HD for the Playoffs, I cannot complain. If I had the bleeding technlogy Verizon Fios (I almost jumped to it) in the Boston area-I would be watching TBS on SD.


I am using Component out on both with my D2 because I avoid delays in handshaking and get an equal picture to HDMI connections.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/11829965
> 
> 
> I just got a TivoHD to replace my 6412 and I have no intention of using HDMI to connect it.
> 
> 
> larry



Good call, but my issues in not being able to just watch TV was on a Tivo S3 via component. I love the S3 & TivoHD as a replacement for two Comcast Moto boxes (the later has single one of the new dual cards, but it's not two way).


My issue is purely on the AVM50 side. Component is my DVR "standard" but the blue screens, delays in res changes, and losing format (RGB vs Studio RGB) is happening increasingly more often and for longer intervals. I did ratchet back from 12s to get more stability, but it's VERY frustrating. Of course I could backtrack to the posted production release but I would inherit 2 major issues with 1.3 devices.


PLEASE, a stable baseline update PLEASE. It shouldn't be this hard to watch TV.....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11832825
> 
> 
> G
> 
> My issue is purely on the AVM50 side. Component is my DVR "standard" but the blue screens, delays in res changes, and losing format



Rudolph - I can't be 100% sure - but I'm

using FW 1.11 Vanilla - NO BETA Software.


My SONY DVRs are using Component out to

the D2. I have none of your problems with

Blue Screens.


Maybe it is not a Anthem FW issue. Maybe it

is a DVR issue.


The one other factor I have MY DVRs set to 1080i

always and then I let the D2 convert it to 1080p

for my Ruby.


Have you tried setting your DVR to FIXED output

Resolution?


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/11828366
> 
> 
> OK. I am considering "dumping" my comcast service (Using Motorola 6412 DVR's) and going with Direct TV - or Verizon FIOS potentially. Are there any warnings out there that I should be aware of concerning Direct TV HD DVR's and my D2. A few key questions I have are:
> 
> 
> Are there any "glitches" via HDMI and the D2 and Direct TV?
> 
> Do I gain any video quality w Direct TV?
> 
> Do the Direct TV DVR's output video simultaneously over component and HDMI? (I have two displays in my media room and I am only watching 1 at a time - one via component and the other HDMI)
> 
> 
> Thoughts and/or suggestions are greatly appreciated.



DirecTV's HD picture quality has improved substantially with the new satellite launches and MPEG4 compression that just went on line in September. I thought the PQ looked pretty darn good before, but it looks great now. The new H20 HD-DVR's work very well, though they do not output HDMI and component simultaneously. I only use component video output from the H-20. Why use HDMI if you don't need too? I only use HDMI to my projector and HD-DVD player. I try to avoid any potential HDMI conflicts whenever possible, which may be why my D2 has been running rock solid on the current software release that's on the Anthem web site. If it ain't broke, don't break it!







For a lot of good info on DirecTV, DISH, etc. check out dbstalk.com


----------



## Joe Wong

Update:


I played around by connecting via DVI-VGA to a Samsung computer LCD monitor and the video card was able to recognize it. However, switching to the second DVI output, it seems like this is not working, so my PC manufacturer is sending a replacement.


I also ordered a new DVI-HDMI cable (thinking my existing 3-yr-old cable may be defective) but still no luck. When I have the PC connected to the Anthem via DVI-HDMI and I press Select on the D2's remote, it says there is no video signal. However, I know there is a video signal since it sent signal to the Samsung monitor mentioned above.


In general, if the video card doesn't recognize the D2's EDID, does that it mean won't output a signal? Or in other words, does it have to recognize the display before it sends a signal?


Maybe the replacement video card will have better luck...


Another question...would a DVI to component (YPrPb) converter allow me to view my PC's higher resolutions (eg. 1920 x 1200) thru the D2 and projector? I was thinking maybe if I get the PC's output converted to component 1080i/p I could then feed it into the D2 and...voila? How about something like this:

http://www.ambery.com/dvtocovidvto.html 


Thanks again...


Joe



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/11772251
> 
> 
> The monitor does not need to be present at the time of driver installation. Also, I would try getting things to work first with a direct connection from the NVidia card to the D2, i.e. bypass the Gefen DVI Detective to eliminate a variable.
> 
> 
> Start the D2, set it to the PC's HDMI input and then power-cycle your PC. In my case when Windows XP starts, the D2 will receive a signal from the card. At this point, I can see my desktop background. Once XP finishes loading, I go into the NVidia control panel and set the proper mode for a 2-monitor display ("clone" in my case).
> 
> 
> Once you verify things are working with a direct connection, then introduce the DVI Detective.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/11830602
> 
> 
> Hi Michael,
> 
> I had the 3910 on a D2 for about 6 months and had lots of HDMI issues to the point where I finally moved to the Oppo 970 letting the D2 do all the work and in the bargain also got a multi-region DVD player and SACD/DVD-A thru HDMI.
> 
> There is no question the 3910 is a fantastic DVD player but the HDMI was really wonky for me. I am very happy with the Oppo which is shockingly low priced for what you get.
> 
> I hope to move back to Denon when they unleash their high end BluRay player.
> 
> What is my point? LOL...well I guess it is just that my suspicion is that the 3910 is just kinda wonky on the HDMI side so anything that happens, although they can be corrected, don't surprise me - I had all sorts of weird problems when using it.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> /\\/\\



I have a Denon 3910 connected via HDMI for DVD-videos, and 5.1 analog for DVD-Audio and SACD. I never had any problems with the various D2 firmware versions that I've had. I use it mainly for DVD-Video. No problems whatsoever for me. I assume you upgraded to the latest 3910 firmware (which came out a long time ago)?


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/11835414
> 
> 
> I have a Denon 3910 connected via HDMI for DVD-videos, and 5.1 analog for DVD-Audio and SACD. I never had any problems with the various D2 firmware versions that I've had. I use it mainly for DVD-Video. No problems whatsoever for me. I assume you upgraded to the latest 3910 firmware (which came out a long time ago)?



I loaded the multi region patch into it as that was a key thing I wanted with the 3910 as I buy a lot of music dvd's from other regions. I did not upgrade the firmware after that so it may indeed have been a source of some of my issues.

/\\/\\


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/11828366
> 
> 
> OK. I am considering "dumping" my comcast service (Using Motorola 6412 DVR's) and going with Direct TV - or Verizon FIOS potentially. Are there any warnings out there that I should be aware of concerning Direct TV HD DVR's and my D2. A few key questions I have are:
> 
> 
> Are there any "glitches" via HDMI and the D2 and Direct TV?
> 
> Do I gain any video quality w Direct TV?
> 
> Do the Direct TV DVR's output video simultaneously over component and HDMI? (I have two displays in my media room and I am only watching 1 at a time - one via component and the other HDMI)
> 
> 
> Thoughts and/or suggestions are greatly appreciated.



ddimberio.... take a look at Dish Network, if you have it avail in your area... They provide a great product, with none of the poor customer service found with Directv. I switched over 2 years ago, and never looked back !!!! On a side note about Dish, I have yet to hear about 1 single user to have HDMI handshake issues. Maybe there are some, but I have never had an issue switching with any of my 3 receivers.


Their HD content channels are second to none... IMO

And they get more channels faster then any other service that I know of...


Good luck buddy...


----------



## TomHuffman

This product has been out for about 9 months and there is still no official firmware update for it, despite the fact that the last time I tried it HDMI audio was still not working on the Tosh XA2.


Does anyone have any info about this?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/11832948
> 
> 
> DirecTV's HD picture quality has improved substantially with the new satellite launches and MPEG4 compression that just went on line in September. I thought the PQ looked pretty darn good before, but it looks great now. The new H20 HD-DVR's work very well, *though they do not output HDMI and component simultaneously.* I only use component video output from the H-20. Why use HDMI if you don't need too?



Agree about the picture quality...


The HR20's HDMI and component outputs *do* work at the same time... I had one hooked to my TV via HDMI and the component hooked up to my SlingBox at 1080i,


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11832936
> 
> 
> Rudolph - I can't be 100% sure - but I'm
> 
> using FW 1.11 Vanilla - NO BETA Software.
> 
> 
> My SONY DVRs are using Component out to
> 
> the D2. I have none of your problems with
> 
> Blue Screens.




Hank,


With res stuck at 1080i I have less pauses between res switches, but I have the downside of if the Tivo S3 starts blue it stays blue. Sometimes (actually mostly) if video is blue the kick into 720p (left arrow) gets me a picture back and if not posterized it will return me to correct 1080i or 720p video depending on network.


I still end up with posterized screens intermittently, no video syn, and blu screens even on 1080i stuck DVR, aside from intermittent no sound on some HDMI sources (Pio DVD).


I'll chock it up to beta software, but I have issues going back to old rev so I'm stuck.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11841842
> 
> 
> I'll chock it up to beta software, but I have issues going back to old rev so I'm stuck.



Are you up to Beta 1.12 Yet?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11842065
> 
> 
> Are you up to Beta 1.12 Yet?



12s


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11843794
> 
> 
> 12s



Is 12s the version shipping with NEW UNITS?


It just seems wrong that you are getting blue

screens with DVR Component out to Anthem.


There is NO Handshake with any Component

signals.


It almost seems like the DVRs are losing

sync while channel surfing.


----------



## uberanalyst

In case you haven't seen it, a very nice and detailed review of the AVM 50 at the Ultimate AV website:

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/surroun...rs/1007anthem/ 


"it earns as high a recommendation as I can offer, and a tip of this reviewer's cap."


Highs

Blu-ray and HD DVD ready with HDMI processing of 1080p video in all flavors and hi-res multichannel PCM

Superlative, full-featured video processing

Excellent sound quality

Outstanding support through frequent firmware updates

Deep, complex functionality for power users and tweaks

Outstanding, straightforward user interface

Ton of features, functions and performance for the money


Lows

May curb desire to upgrade

Too many buttons on front panel

So-so remote has multiple labels that confuse clumsy reviewers



The author of the review notes that he's about to get his hands on an updated version of the D2 and thus will be providing a review of that unit in a few months.


- Dave


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/11840414
> 
> 
> Agree about the picture quality...
> 
> 
> The HR20's HDMI and component outputs *do* work at the same time... I had one hooked to my TV via HDMI and the component hooked up to my SlingBox at 1080i,



FilmMixer,


You are right, and in fact ALL of the video output options on the HR-20 are hot. Of course only the HDMI and component connections output HD signals. I was relying on my memory, and was probably thinking about one of my previous units. Sorry for any confusion.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/10246190
> 
> 
> Typically what you want for an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player is an "auto" setting that sends decoded PCM to the Anthem when playing a PCM or TrueHD track (or a DTS-HD MA track in the future) and sends the "lossy" DD5.1 or DTS bitstream to the Anthem when playing standard DVDs.



Two questions about this:


1. Does anyone know if the PS3 has this option? I don't think it does but I can easily have missed it.


2. What happens if you output Linear PCM on a standard DVD? Does the DVD players somehow convert DD5.1 to 2-channel PCM?


----------



## tbui57

I bought the AVM50 & black pearl. The picture is pristine clear with my blu-ray BDP-S300. The sound is so sweet with my two Diana Krall DVDs.


The system costs me an arm and a leg, but I could not be any happier...


One note though, the S300 must have the latest firmware 2.60, otherwise there is no picture via HDMI.


Thank you, drhankz and Bob. You inspire me...


PS: If there is any good music DVDs (jazz & opera & classical) that you would recommended, please let me know, grazie mille


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/11853899
> 
> 
> Thank you, drhankz and Bob. You inspire me...



Great Choices - Anthem and the Black Pearl.































I'm sure the PQ of the Black Pearl is awesome.


I have an OLD Ruby - and waiting for the Diamond if

it ever shows up










FYI - you will find the ARM and LEG grow back from ENJOYMENT [GRIN]


----------



## tbui57

drhankz, you are right again...they are growing back.

We are so impressed with the sound from our Diana Krall DVDs. The best experience I have ever had with a sound system.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/11854371
> 
> 
> drhankz, you are right again...they are growing back.



YUP - the more pleasure you experience - the

more they grow back










Especially with Wives or Girlfriends.


The more they enjoy it - the more forgiving

of the SPENDING they are


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/11853899
> 
> 
> I bought the AVM50 & black pearl. The picture is pristine clear with my blu-ray BDP-S300. The sound is so sweet with my two Diana Krall DVDs.
> 
> 
> The system costs me an arm and a leg, but I could not be any happier...
> 
> 
> One note though, the S300 must have the latest firmware 2.60, otherwise there is no picture via HDMI.
> 
> 
> Thank you, drhankz and Bob. You inspire me...
> 
> 
> PS: If there is any good music DVDs (jazz & opera & classical) that you would recommended, please let me know, grazie mille



Check out











He is a master when it comes to the vibraphone


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/11050233
> 
> 
> Is it possible this player is based on the Pioneer (I know the first Sony was), and therefore using the same or similar firmware? At any rate, try the following:
> 
> 1) Turn on TV and set to Anthem
> 
> 2) Turn on Anthem and make sure you get the logo etc
> 
> 3) Set the Anthem input to something other than the Sony
> 
> 4) Turn on the Sony and wait 2 minutes (really)
> 
> 5) Change the input to the Sony
> 
> See if that helps. If it does, you have the same issue Pioneer does, and it is apparently a problem with the player (and will be fixed RSN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). If not, I'm sure someone else who is using the Sony will pipe up and let you know if it works for them... Good luck
> 
> PS - I can't take credit for this one, someone on the Pioneer thread figured out the sequence (it's just the turn on Sony with Anthem not looking at it part).



Sony BDP-S300 firmware update (Version 2.60) is a sucsess, all handshake issues with the Anthem have been addressed. YAHOOOO!!!!!!!


----------



## FilmMixer

Ok my Anthem friends.. I am looking for a new sub..


I think that in my price range for the new room (this isn't going to be a long long term investment) I am going with the Hsu VTF-3 MK3 with Turbocharger..


Any comments from the peanut gallery?


BTW To all... my interim replacement for the D2 will be an Onkyo 905.. I actually bought it from the guy I sold my D2 to... Needless to say, I am ready for a let down


----------



## lazarus28

I just sent this to Anthem Tech, but decided to post here as well to see if anybody else has encountered this and hopefully worked through it. =)


I'm currently running 1.12q on my D1-HD, and it has been the most stable version so far, but I am having a few issues. When using an XBOX 360 Elite via HDMI, the audio will cut out every time the console changes audio formats. (ie - going from a menu to a game, or from a movie back to the menu, etc)


The only way to fix it is to switch to another input and then back. The Anthem then re-syncs properly to the new format.


Also, my Vista-based PC was once, with this firmware, able to correctly send the EDID to the D2 via the Gefen DVI-thingy and allow me to use my projector as a monitor. However, it has stopped doing that entirely. It could very well be the lousy Vista-drivers at play, but now I only see "Digital Display" under available monitors where before it would say "Statement D2." And the available resolution list diminishes to almost nothing, indicating that it isn't getting the EDID properly. And the Vista drivers unfortunately don't allow custom resolutions in some of the releases. So, I can get a picture up there, but only at 800x600, or another standard PC resolution. Nothing widescreen at all. Before, when the EDID registered as "Anthem D2," everything worked (mostly) 100% as it should between the two devices.


On the plus-side, 1080p/24 output is working great! PS3 and XA-2 work perfectly outputting the 24p signal, and the Anthem has the ability to get around the XA-2 sync issues with the audio delay feature. That's awesome.


Video card is an Nvidia GeForce 8600.


Is there a new firmware that can help with this, or do you guys have any suggestions as to how to get the two to play nice?


----------



## Jon Spackman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/11856752
> 
> 
> 
> BTW To all... my interim replacement for the D2 will be an Onkyo 905.. I actually bought it from the guy I sold my D2 to... Needless to say, I am ready for a let down



Have you heard this "letdown" and is it real or perceived?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jon Spackman* /forum/post/11857354
> 
> 
> Have you heard this "letdown" and is it real or perceived?



Jon... you saw the smily face










I am actually excited about this product, but I have no real reason to believe the amp section will perform as well as my A5 did... I am keeping my expectations low and I am prepared to be pleasantly surprise


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/11856752
> 
> 
> Ok my Anthem friends.. I am looking for a new sub..
> 
> 
> I think that in my price range for the new room (this isn't going to be a long long term investment) I am going with the Hsu VTF-3 MK3 with Turbocharger..
> 
> 
> Any comments from the peanut gallery?
> 
> 
> BTW To all... my interim replacement for the D2 will be an Onkyo 905.. I actually bought it from the guy I sold my D2 to... Needless to say, I am ready for a let down



Mark,


Curtis is a big fan of the HSU, come over on Saturday and hear the new Ultra 13 from SVS in my room.


Michael


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/11861598
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 
> 
> Curtis is a big fan of the HSU, come over on Saturday and hear the new Ultra 13 from SVS in my room.
> 
> 
> Michael



Yeah, come on Marc, I should be there as well.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/11861598
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 
> 
> Curtis is a big fan of the HSU, come over on Saturday and hear the new Ultra 13 from SVS in my room.
> 
> 
> Michael



Thanks for the invite... we are going to be in the middle of our move, or else I would be there is a second... Curtis' endorsement is golden, and I think I've got it narrowed down to the HSU or Velo SPL-1500R.. the Ultra 13 was my first choice, but I don't know if I can wait that long for them to get it back in stock...


----------



## TREVLAN

Hello again... great news. I bought the avm50. but currently am using my sony 5es as the amp.


I know RTFM


----------



## Milt99

Trevlan,

Congrats on the AVM50.

Don't forget to RTFM, pal









You might want to check out the stickies at the top of this thread for a starting point.

Unless Bob is having an impromptu organ tansplant, I'm sure he'll reply soon and give you the requisite mascots too.


----------



## yourlilbro

Ultimateavmag posted their AVM50 review yesterday. They seem to Love it. Waiting for their D2 review in a month or 2.


----------



## TREVLAN

milt99 thx, so i RTFM and yet I stil get the blue screen and no video/audio


i did a quick hook up 360 component 1 in and hdmi out to tv.


I can see the set up part of the avm and can change what I need.

`I changed DVD1 to component 1 in and all that good stuff but stil nothing.


[email protected]#T%!$#%^ This is going to be awhile I know it.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11861867
> 
> 
> Hello again... great news. I bought the avm50. but currently am using my sony 5es as the amp.
> 
> 
> I know RTFM


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/11856752
> 
> 
> Ok my Anthem friends.. I am looking for a new sub..
> 
> 
> I think that in my price range for the new room (this isn't going to be a long long term investment) I am going with the Hsu VTF-3 MK3 with Turbocharger..
> 
> 
> Any comments from the peanut gallery?
> 
> 
> BTW To all... my interim replacement for the D2 will be an Onkyo 905.. I actually bought it from the guy I sold my D2 to... Needless to say, I am ready for a let down



Let us how big a let down this is, I have friends who don't want to pay as much as the D2 and the Onkyo is an interesting unit.


Sub wise, I am using a Rel B2. For music this is one of the best sub I used. For cinema it lack of bit of slam during huge explosion....


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/11856752
> 
> 
> Ok my Anthem friends.. I am looking for a new sub..



Official peanut gallery member here. Have a look at the Epik lines.

http://www.epiksubwoofers.com/ 


Chad has been making subwoofer drivers for years. I have 4 of his Ascendant audio 18's in my Infinite Baffle. I've read nothing but good reviews on his subs. If I were looking for a new sub, I'd look real hard at his.


----------



## jpillar

What is the MSRP of the D2 these days, now that the dollar is less than the loonie?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11863455
> 
> 
> milt99 thx, so i RTFM and yet I stil get the blue screen and no video/audio
> 
> 
> i did a quick hook up 360 component 1 in and hdmi out to tv.
> 
> 
> I can see the set up part of the avm and can change what I need.
> 
> `I changed DVD1 to component 1 in and all that good stuff but stil nothing.
> 
> 
> [email protected]#T%!$#%^ This is going to be awhile I know it.



What software level is on your AVM-50?


---------------------------------


First verify that the 360 is set properly to produce the Component output you want. The easy way to do that is to hook it directly to the Component input of your TV. Keep in mind that you won't be able to get 720p or 1080i Component output from the XBOX if you are playing a standard DVD in it due to DVD industry restrictions.


Next make sure your HDMI video output setup on the Anthem is correct using the Anthem's internally generated video. See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post linked in the first post of this thread.


AFTER you know your Anthem is properly set to drive your display, THEN go check your Component input definition for viewing the Xbox in the Anthem.


In Setup / Source Setup you want to Scaler Input = Component and Component Video In = the number for the Component jack set on the back of the Anthem you are using for input. While you are checking that, make sure you haven't accidentally swapped any of the 3 Component cables around to the wrong jacks.


If you are using the V1.2 (AKA V1.12s) Anthem software, make sure Setup / Source Setup also points to the correct one of the 2 Video Output configurations.


While viewing that input through the Anthem, press and hold the "7" key to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. Go to Video Source Adjust / Output, scroll down to Frame Lock, and confirm that Frame Lock = OFF is set.


Do you have good video from the XBOX now? If not, try different output resolutions from the XBOX to see if ANY resolution from the XBOX to the Anthem produces video.


If you still can't get good video at all via the Anthem, but a direct connection to the TV works fine, try a different Component input jack set on the Anthem. You may need to contact Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lazarus28* /forum/post/11857124
> 
> 
> I just sent this to Anthem Tech, but decided to post here as well to see if anybody else has encountered this and hopefully worked through it. =)
> 
> 
> I'm currently running 1.12q on my D1-HD, and it has been the most stable version so far, but I am having a few issues. When using an XBOX 360 Elite via HDMI, the audio will cut out every time the console changes audio formats. (ie - going from a menu to a game, or from a movie back to the menu, etc)
> 
> 
> The only way to fix it is to switch to another input and then back. The Anthem then re-syncs properly to the new format.
> 
> 
> Also, my Vista-based PC was once, with this firmware, able to correctly send the EDID to the D2 via the Gefen DVI-thingy and allow me to use my projector as a monitor. However, it has stopped doing that entirely. It could very well be the lousy Vista-drivers at play, but now I only see "Digital Display" under available monitors where before it would say "Statement D2." And the available resolution list diminishes to almost nothing, indicating that it isn't getting the EDID properly. And the Vista drivers unfortunately don't allow custom resolutions in some of the releases. So, I can get a picture up there, but only at 800x600, or another standard PC resolution. Nothing widescreen at all. Before, when the EDID registered as "Anthem D2," everything worked (mostly) 100% as it should between the two devices.
> 
> 
> On the plus-side, 1080p/24 output is working great! PS3 and XA-2 work perfectly outputting the 24p signal, and the Anthem has the ability to get around the XA-2 sync issues with the audio delay feature. That's awesome.
> 
> 
> Video card is an Nvidia GeForce 8600.
> 
> 
> Is there a new firmware that can help with this, or do you guys have any suggestions as to how to get the two to play nice?



The latest software we've heard of here is V1.12s (Also Known As V1.2 when installed by the factory).


There were some early reports of problems with V1.12q and V1.12r so your XBOX problem, and possibly even your PC problem could be due to that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/11856623
> 
> 
> Sony BDP-S300 firmware update (Version 2.60) is a sucsess, all handshake issues with the Anthem have been addressed. YAHOOOO!!!!!!!



Thanks for the info. Just for completeness, what version of the Anthem software are you using to get this good result?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11841842
> 
> 
> Hank,
> 
> 
> With res stuck at 1080i I have less pauses between res switches, but I have the downside of if the Tivo S3 starts blue it stays blue. Sometimes (actually mostly) if video is blue the kick into 720p (left arrow) gets me a picture back and if not posterized it will return me to correct 1080i or 720p video depending on network.
> 
> 
> I still end up with posterized screens intermittently, no video syn, and blu screens even on 1080i stuck DVR, aside from intermittent no sound on some HDMI sources (Pio DVD).
> 
> 
> I'll chock it up to beta software, but I have issues going back to old rev so I'm stuck.



Tim, my usual fix to force a new handshake is to switch the Anthem to a different input and back. If you haven't tried that, give that a try. The Tivo may be more robust on the new handshake if it is not also being asked to change output resolutions.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/11867129
> 
> 
> What is the MSRP of the D2 these days, now that the dollar is less than the loonie?



$6799


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/11868045
> 
> 
> $6799



Worth every penny IMO.


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/11868045
> 
> 
> $6799




Without breaking forum rules, it's safe to say that they can be had for less than MSRP. I've never paid MSRP for any of my components. Remember, it's "Suggested" price, not mandated price.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/11869275
> 
> 
> Without breaking forum rules, it's safe to say that they can be had for less than MSRP. I've never paid MSRP for any of my components. Remember, it's "Suggested" price, not mandated price.



Guys, I was only answering the question. But if anyone is so inclined to pay MSRP then I would be gratefully indebted to you if you would send him or her my way.










Cheers!


----------



## TREVLAN

Hi Bob, I did what you said and still nothing.

Quick update.

I HOOKED UP MY ROGERS 3250 BOX AND iI can get the 480i lower non HD channels to come through and audio works.

Once I go to the HD channels I get a blue screen and audio works.

The xbox gives me sound but no video it is outputting at 1080ihave not tried the ps3 yet as I'm getting very tierd of this already...lol

had this thing for 10 hours and can't get it working right.

I have the 360 hooked up to component1 and the cable hooked up to component 3

the set ups I did was 360 for dvd1

scaler is component1

component video is set to 1 , all others a off

cable box i set up in TV1.

scaler input component3 and component video is also 3.


What am I doing wrong here.


EDIT: when I have the cable box running If I check out the "status" button it shows a signal and 480i blah blah but once I go to the HD channels it says Video Imput - No video Imput


EDIT 2- after read back through this thread I read up on this...

"[IMPORTANT NOTE: Some recent Anthem purchasers have run into a new bug in the Anthems that makes it difficult for the Anthem to handle 1080i input via HDMI or Component. A fix is expected shortly. If you have this bug it will be obvious -- either a "scrambled" screen image or no image at 1080i input to the Anthem. Contact Anthem tech support. The workaround is to set 480i and 720p from your box, but again this is not ideal, so do switch back to 480i and 1080i when you get this fixed.]"


Now I wonder if this is my issue?

Version code is 1.11 on my avm50 if that helps.


I'm going to try my PS3 hooked up at 1080p and see what happens... wish me luck


----------



## TREVLAN

Ok instead of editing my post once again I thought I'd do a new one...

so update..

I am getting somewhere finally.

My conections were all hooked up just right and my settings also right.


Looks like the avm50 will not accept a 1080i signal.

cable hdtv is 1080i but the 720p will work and 480i

the 360 was set to 1080i, wont play.

the ps3 1080p works fine.

so I think I got that damn bug I read about.


Should I contact anthem tek or install the new software 1.2? thx to everyone for there help and imputs.

I think in all my internet web dealings this thread [not site alone] just this thread that I have passed through has got to be the best, what I mean by that is no BS in here just pure help and info no usual crap.

Thx again guys-n-gals


----------



## Roomraider

Bob, I have V1.12q installed on an AVM-50 with HDMI problems slowly disappearing 1 @ a time. Oppo 970 works flawlessly, and now thanks to the new Sony firmware (V2.60) the BDP-S300 works the same. I have only 1 device left that does'nt play well and that's the Comcast/Motorolla DVR, still HDMI audio drop outs during switching Via HDMI.


----------



## Milt99

Trevlan,

I would do both.

Download the firmware and call Nick.

Glad to hear your PS3 is working.


----------



## TREVLAN

Thx milt99.


Having having component to HDMI for the cable box is surprisingly quick.

I demoed the denon 4308 and gosh it took from 10sec to 5min for the display to show and 1/2 the time I would never get any picture at all.


Running the sony5es as the "AMP" seems that I can't crank up the system it will not play very loud if this makes sense.

I have the sony at -25 and the avm50 around 20 before I can hear anything.

Is this normal or the fault of using the sony as the amp?

so far though I am somewhat impressed but it's still early.


I need the MCA5 and quick.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11871307
> 
> 
> Ok instead of editing my post once again I thought I'd do a new one...
> 
> so update..
> 
> I am getting somewhere finally.
> 
> My conections were all hooked up just right and my settings also right.
> 
> 
> Looks like the avm50 will not accept a 1080i signal.
> 
> cable hdtv is 1080i but the 720p will work and 480i
> 
> the 360 was set to 1080i, wont play.
> 
> the ps3 1080p works fine.
> 
> so I think I got that damn bug I read about.
> 
> 
> Should I contact anthem tek or install the new software 1.2? thx to everyone for there help and imputs.
> 
> I think in all my internet web dealings this thread [not site alone] just this thread that I have passed through has got to be the best, what I mean by that is no BS in here just pure help and info no usual crap.
> 
> Thx again guys-n-gals



The key piece of info is that you are running the V1.11 software.


It is highly likely that you have been bitten by the 1080i/1080p input bug which affected a significant number of V1.10 and V1.11 users.


To test for this do the following:


* Set the Setup / Video Output of your Anthem to 720p or lower.


* Set each and every source device (regardless of whether you are actually viewing the device as part of the test) to send video at 720p or lower to the Anthem.


* After you have made all of those adjustments, turn off the Anthem both with the remote *AND* with the back panel switch. Do not skip this step -- it is crucial to eliminating the effects of the 1080i/1080p bug.


* Turn the Anthem back on at the back panel and with the remote and see how things work.


If you can get good video with everything (input and output) set to 720p or lower, but not with 1080i or higher then you have this bug.


You need to install new software. V1.11e is a good version, but most likely Anthem tech support will send you V1.12s. You can use a 720p setup in the interim.


Note that for most people the problem is only triggered by input resolution, which means you can use 1080i or 1080p output from the Anthem so long as NO device is sending 1080i or 1080p to the Anthem. But a few folks ran into this problem due to the output setting as well.


Also note that 1080i or 1080p input from ANY device will screw up video from ALL devices if you have this bug, and only a full power cycle of the Anthem can restore things.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/11871665
> 
> 
> Bob, I have V1.12q installed on an AVM-50 with HDMI problems slowly disappearing 1 @ a time. Oppo 970 works flawlessly, and now thanks to the new Sony firmware (V2.60) the BDP-S300 works the same. I have only 1 device left that does'nt play well and that's the Comcast/Motorolla DVR, still HDMI audio drop outs during switching Via HDMI.



Even though I use HDMI for video from my Comcast box, I still recommend you use optical cable for audio. That should cure your audio drop outs.


The Motorola DVR's HDMI implementation is, umm, unfortunate.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11871948
> 
> 
> Thx milt99.
> 
> 
> Having having component to HDMI for the cable box is surprisingly quick.
> 
> I demoed the denon 4308 and gosh it took from 10sec to 5min for the display to show and 1/2 the time I would never get any picture at all.
> 
> 
> Running the sony5es as the "AMP" seems that I can't crank up the system it will not play very loud if this makes sense.
> 
> I have the sony at -25 and the avm50 around 20 before I can hear anything.
> 
> Is this normal or the fault of using the sony as the amp?
> 
> so far though I am somewhat impressed but it's still early.
> 
> 
> I need the MCA5 and quick.



The "line level" RCA outputs of the AVM-50 should hit calibrated volume levels when the AVM-50 is set at -10dB. You trim that up using the Setup speaker calibration menu.


I'm not sure how you are running things through the Sony, but typically you would expect to have to set an AVR's Main Volume to either -10dB or the higher 0dB (depending on how it is designed) when it is being used as just an amp.


If you are running the Sony at -25dB and also the Anthem at -20dB it doesn't surprise me that things are quiet.

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

Alright, I have a problem that may have already been discussed but I am going to ask it anyway. I have windows vista and I also have the radio shack serial to usb cable, which they say isnt vista compatible but through some research i found a way for it to work. I am also trying to update the software in my D2, to the 1.12s. My computer sees the serial cable and works fine with the updating part until it gets to flashing a part of the update, and then i get a distorted blue screen on my computer and my computer reboots itself. I do not have any computer problems from anything else. My D2 however now doesnt have a solid operating system so it really doesnt work. it will come on and play some sounds like it is supposed to but then it will not allow the video to be processed. so does anyone know why i get the blue screen on my computer and why i cant update my d2 via the radio shack serial to usb cable while working with vista? are the any known issues with this problem?


Also, has anyone reported problems with their sub outputs not working? Thanks.


Rob


----------



## TREVLAN

Good Morning Bob,


I tried what you said re:1080i bug and everything works when set to 720p

The actual version of software on my manual says 1.11x does this make sense?


And thanks for tip on how to set my sony temp amp. I will try this.

I have never ran the sony more then -20 in all its life cycle. the amp goes from -80 to 0 for volume and the avg I had it was around -35 to -30 and it was pretty loud.


I thought being in the -10 it would clip.

this receiver is only rated at 120watts and thats not all channels running.


EDIT: another question is, must I run the sub cable to the sony amp?

I know that the mca5 does not have a port for the sub and it should go right into the avm50 and seeing as the sub has its own amp. [PS1200 sub] I can eliminate yet another cable.

Can someone confirm or deny this please.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I suspect your manual actual says it is the "1.1x" version, which means it is for all the 1.1 releases including 1.10, 1.11, 1.11e, etc.


The way to see what software you have on the anthem is to press Select on the remote once and read it off the end of the first line of status info displayed.


Anyway, if things are working at 720p but not at 1080i then you need new software from Anthem tech support. No one has ever explained why some Anthems have this problem with the older software and others don't. I'm still running original V1.11 on my D2 and I don't have this problem.


-------------------------------


Here's what you should do for your amp:


Go into Setup / Speaker Level Calibration and set the Left Front, Center, and Right Front speakers to 0dB. Back out of that menu.


Set the Anthem Main Volume to -10dB.


Play some stuff and set your amp's volume control to the point where you get a pleasant volume.


Now if you don't already have one, run over to Radio Shack and buy a Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter. They are inexpensive and well worth the cost.


The volume you are targeting is around 75dB as measured by the SPL meter. Of course you can't do that accurately playing normal audio because normal audio goes up and down in volume on its own, but set your amp voiume so you are getting roughly 75dB. You can tweak it later if you find you need to.


Now go back into Setup / Speaker Level Calibration and, using the Anthem's own internally generated test tones, adjust the settings for each speaker so that each, in turn, measures 75dB. Leave the amp volume unchanged and do this with the controls in the Anthem menu. If you find you are having trouble getting all the speakers loud enough or soft enough THEN adjust the amp volume a little bit and start over in the Anthem menu.


Take the time to measure carefully and balance all your speakers to the same volume. 75dB is just a suggested volume for this. What's important is that whatever level you target, each speaker measures that level when playing the test tone from this menu.


Once you've got the speakers balanced in the Anthem menu you are done. Leave your amp at the volume you finally settled on.


Set this way, most listening will be done in the range of -20dB to -10dB on the Anthem Main Volume. -5dB will likely sound too loud. -35 dB will sound pretty quiet. -40db or so will sound almost muted.


----------------------------------------------


Most subwoofers have "line level" input and have their own internal power amp. Run the sub output of the Anthem directly to the line level input on your subwoofer.


If you have a subwoofer that only has a speaker level input (pretty unusual) you will need to run the bass from the Anthem through an amp before sending it to the subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

ensmarcum,

Ditch the Serial to USB and use a straight serial to serial, Rat Shack sells a good one. Your update will work fine after that

It has nothing to do with Vista.

My guess is that there is a problem with the differing specs between serial and USB.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/9557247
> 
> 
> The ideal arrangement for watching SDTV from a DVR like this would be as follows:
> 
> 
> 1) Set the DVR video output resolution -- when watching SDTV -- to HDMI 480i -- or Component 480i if your DVR doesn't support HDMI 480i. Again this is the ideal since it means the set top box is doing NOTHING to the incoming SDTV signal -- the Anthem does all de-interlacing and scaling. Some set top boxes offer a setting to switch to 480i automatically when watching SDTV.
> 
> 
> 2) Set the DVR to expect a 16:9 TV. Set the DVR to "uniformly stretch" 4:3 programs left and right to fill the 16:9 screen. Although this LOOKS LIKE the DVR is fiddling with the image, in REALITY the DVR is doing NOTHING to the image. There are the same number of pixels across each line, they are just interpreted as fatter. If, on the other hand, you set the DVR to generate pillar box bars on either side of your 4:3 SDTV content it will in fact waste many of the low-resolution (480i) pixels across each line producing those bars -- leaving only a few pixels in the center to carry the original program content. Some set top boxes offer two different types of "stretch" here. The one you want is the one that is described as stretching uniformly across the screen instead of the one concentrating the stretching to either side.
> 
> 
> 3) Set the Anthem to Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box when you want to see your SDTV in its original shape. The ANTHEM will then generate the pillar box bars. But it does so at the high resolution coming out of the scaler so there are still plenty of pixels in the middle to hold the original program content. If you prefer to watch your SDTV stretched left and right to fill the 16:9 screen, set your Anthem to Scale Out = Anamorphic and it will leave the image unaltered (i.e., the orignal, fatter pixels). The Anthem's Panoramic setting does the other kind of shape adjustment -- concentrating the stretching to the sides so that the center of the image is less distorted. Again, all this language is backwards from what is really happening. Anamorphic really does nothing -- no stretch. And Panoramic actually "compresses" the middle a bit to partially return the middle of the image back towards its original shape. Variable width pixels again.
> 
> 
> 4) As always, leave the Anthem's video output set to the one best output resolution for your display -- as close as it will accept to its "native" resolution.
> 
> 
> Now if you do all that and the image looks too dark or looks "washed out" compared to your HDTV viewing then your set top box has a very common problem -- its black levels differ for 480i output compared to 480p and above. This problem may only exist for its Component 480i output, or may ALSO be on HDMI 480i output. A very few set top boxes that exhibit this problem by default also have a black output control (offering just two choices) that will fix this when toggled. The two choices could be labeled just about anything. Commonly found are "0" vs "7.5", "lighter" vs. "darker", and "normal" vs. "extended". Pick the one that makes your SDTV at 480i match most closely with your HDTV at 1080i, and double check to make sure changing that setting hasn't now screwed up your HDTV!
> 
> 
> However even if the set top box offers no help the Anthem gives you an easy way to fix that. Just use one overlayed input (e.g., TV1) for HDTV viewing and another (e.g., TV2) for SDTV viewing! And then make the necessary level adjustments in the Anthem Video Source Adjust menu for TV2. Use the Anthem's Brightness control to adjust black levels, and then double check that you don't have to refine its Contrast setting for white levels as well.
> 
> 
> Fortunately this 480i black levels problem is becoming less and less common, so most people won't have to use different Anthem levels for SDTV viewing.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I have tried this but what should the crop input be set to. I have my 8300HDPVR set to pass through and I have selected all resolutions to be displayed in the 8300 setup menu as well as to tell it my display is 16:9. I can not get the proper picture to display on my projector. I have my video output (1080p/60) set to match my 1080p projector.


please help


Thanks


John


----------



## ensmarcum

my laptop will not allow me to use a serial to serial connection. is there any other way to do this?


rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/11876722
> 
> 
> my laptop will not allow me to use a serial to serial connection. is there any other way to do this?
> 
> 
> rob



Can you use another computer to do the install? Perhaps a computer at work or at your dealer, or perhaps a friend can bring a computer over to you.


Double check that you have the latest drivers for your USB/Serial adapter. These adapters can be a real pain in the neck. And Vista doesn't make it any easier.


Another adapter might possibly work better for you. Try IoGear or Belkin and try to get one that has up to date drivers for your Vista system.


You may also need to contact Anthem tech support to be sure the installer application is even compatible with Vista at this point.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11875554
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I have tried this but what should the crop input be set to. I have my 8300HDPVR set to pass through and I have selected all resolutions to be displayed in the 8300 setup menu as well as to tell it my display is 16:9. I can not get the proper picture to display on my projector. I have my video output (1080p/60) set to match my 1080p projector.
> 
> 
> please help
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



Can you describe what's wrong with the picture you are getting?


Video Source Adjust / Crop Input should be set to HDMI Auto Detect and Edges Off.


Video Source Adjust / Scale Output should usually be set to Letter/Pillar Box.


Remember that these settings are on a per-input basis, so select the Anthem input you are using for the DVR and then go into the Video Source Adjust menu and verify them.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11876872
> 
> 
> Can you describe what's wrong with the picture you are getting?
> 
> 
> Video Source Adjust / Crop Input should be set to HDMI Auto Detect and Edges Off.
> 
> 
> Video Source Adjust / Scale Output should usually be set to Letter/Pillar Box.
> 
> 
> Remember that these settings are on a per-input basis, so select the Anthem input you are using for the DVR and then go into the Video Source Adjust menu and verify them.
> 
> --Bob



Well I think I figured out the problem. When my box is outputting 480i standard, it will not allow me to do a stretch only normal, zoom1 and zoom2. But on 1080i it has normal, stretch, zoom1 and zoom2. Anyone know why? Should I be using 480i widescreen in the setup of the 8300?


Thanks


John


480i widescreen does allow me to do stetch but when I set the box for pass-through it does not recognize sd material as 480i wide but as 480i standard. If I force the box by selecting fixed output mode to 480i standard it does allow me to stretch but it stretches the picture vertically.


If I force the box to 480i wide and leave it on normal, the picture has the proper height but is skinnier than regular sd material with pillar boxes on the sides. When I select stretch on 480i wide it the fills the proper width for sd material with the pillar boxes on the sides. My tv channel guide for my cable is also much skinnier than normal when on this mode. Is this right??


----------



## TREVLAN

Bob Thx once again for the help.


I had to go into the place I bought the avm50 from today to grab more wires and hdmi cables and so happens that the anthem rep was in the store.

He got on the phone with Nick and said same thing update with 1.2 which I'm getting tomorrow.


I will do the AMP configurations you mentioned and let you know.


EDIT: I have a question about this 1080i but.

I just poped in NIN:Beside you in time [blue ray] which only plays at 1080i.

I have it playing in the PS3 out to the avm via HDMI then HDMI to the tv this plays?? what gives?

Nothing over component will play 1080i OR 1080P

i tried changing the 360 to component output of 1080p and it would not show video.

so over component I can't play 1080 signels at all.

over 720p and lower.


Funny though how much 720p looks like crap pver 1080p ..ewww i need my anthem fixed.









I got the techs coming over tomorrow to calibrate everything again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11878778
> 
> 
> Bob Thx once again for the help.
> 
> 
> I had to go into the place I bought the avm50 from today to grab more wires and hdmi cables and so happens that the anthem rep was in the store.
> 
> He got on the phone with Nick and said same thing update with 1.2 which I'm getting tomorrow.
> 
> 
> I will do the AMP configurations you mentioned and let you know.
> 
> 
> EDIT: I have a question about this 1080i but.
> 
> I just poped in NIN:Beside you in time [blue ray] which only plays at 1080i.
> 
> I have it playing in the PS3 out to the avm via HDMI then HDMI to the tv this plays?? what gives?
> 
> Nothing over component will play 1080i OR 1080P
> 
> i tried changing the 360 to component output of 1080p and it would not show video.
> 
> so over component I can't play 1080 signels at all.
> 
> over 720p and lower.
> 
> 
> Funny though how much 720p looks like crap pver 1080p ..ewww i need my anthem fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the techs coming over tomorrow to calibrate everything again.



Yes, some people only have the 1080i/1080p bug on one or the other of Component or HDMI. Some have it on both. The new software will fix you up.

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

Ahh Ok I feel better..lol


Another thing. let me know if my questions get dumb or If I am over doing it with them..


I thought SACD's would not play over HDMI on the Anthem hdmi v1.1??

Yet my PS3 plays it just fine over HDMI and also my denon 2910 plays the sacd and dvd-a just fine over the anolog cables. which I know for sure is ok over the analog cables but didn't think HDMI will play it.

Is this because the PS3 is hdmi 1.3 so it will play it?


again sorry for hitting you with all these questions but your help and everyone elses is greatly appriciated.


-Mark


----------



## ensmarcum

Alright, well i now have my neighbors computer and I get pretty far into the new firmware upgrade and I get this error:


video processor uC flash programming failed [error code =0x4].


Does anyone know what this means and how to fix the problem?


Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/11879448
> 
> 
> Alright, well i now have my neighbors computer and I get pretty far into the new firmware upgrade and I get this error:
> 
> 
> video processor uC flash programming failed [error code =0x4].
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what this means and how to fix the problem?
> 
> 
> Rob



Errors like that usually mean the serial connection didn't work properly (it either can't communicate with that portion of the Anthem or it can't verify that the right data got over into that portion). If you are still using a USB/Serial adapter on the new computer it may still be at fault. It's OK to re-attempt the install again on top of the failed install. Note that a proper install should take about 10-15 minutes total.


However, there is also a chance that your previous, failed attempt to load the firmware left that portion of the Anthem in a state where it won't communicate with the installer application. Contact Anthem tech support. If they think this is what's happened, they can email you a different Windows PC program that will erase all the various program memories in the Anthem and leave it in a clean state where you can then redo the install.


Also -- and this is vital -- you must not have any live HDMI connections while you are doing the software install. Many source and display devices keep their HDMI sockets live even when they appear to be "off". The safest thing to do is to simply disconnect everything else in your system from wall power except for your Anthem and the Windows PC. This is safer than pulling the HDMI cables since the HDMI plugs/sockets are kind of delicate.


If there's a chance you had HDMI connections with power on them, then this error may just be due to that. I'm sorry, but I don't know specifically what that error code means.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11879356
> 
> 
> Ahh Ok I feel better..lol
> 
> 
> Another thing. let me know if my questions get dumb or If I am over doing it with them..
> 
> 
> I thought SACD's would not play over HDMI on the Anthem hdmi v1.1??
> 
> Yet my PS3 plays it just fine over HDMI and also my denon 2910 plays the sacd and dvd-a just fine over the anolog cables. which I know for sure is ok over the analog cables but didn't think HDMI will play it.
> 
> Is this because the PS3 is hdmi 1.3 so it will play it?
> 
> 
> again sorry for hitting you with all these questions but your help and everyone elses is greatly appriciated.
> 
> 
> -Mark



Players that convert SACD (or DVD-Audio) to high bandwidth, multi-channel PCM can play them just fine over HDMI to the Anthem. The PS3 does that for SACD (but not for DVD-Audio). The Oppo players, for example, will do it for both SACD and DVD-Audio.


Be aware that due to a technical strangeness in the HDMI spec, you need to be sure your player's output video is set to 720p or higher when playing SACD or DVD-Audio over HDMI or you will lose audio bandwidth. HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the "blanking intervals" of the HDMI video signal. That means that the bandwidth available for audio is a percentage of the current video bandwidth being sent over the cable.

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

Thanks again Bob, Bet you never get sick of hearing that.



I go to watch cable tv power everything up and "pink" everything is tinted pink, I reboot the AVM50 [power on/off] picture comes back just fine...

I read Bob's post on "shocking pink video" but doesn't seem to pertain to this.


Anybody got ideas for this why this could of happened?


----------



## ensmarcum

i hate this crap. i have tried two computers and two different usb to serial adapters and nothing works. what a piece of crap. i have never had a problem with the d2 until now. nick at anthem tells me to be sure that my usb adapter is updated with the latest driver, and it is. is there anything else i can do?


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/11880324
> 
> 
> i hate this crap. i have tried two computers and two different usb to serial adapters and nothing works. what a piece of crap. i have never had a problem with the d2 until now. nick at anthem tells me to be sure that my usb adapter is updated with the latest driver, and it is. is there anything else i can do?



Which Serial-USB adapter are you using? I've had best luck with the Keyspan serial-usb adapers. I've used them to connect to routers, update my Pronto and update my HD Leeza, all without problem. haven't tried the D2 yet... as it came with 1.2, don't have anything to update it with.


----------



## TREVLAN

PCM or Bitstream sound output from PS3?


I heard if you use Toslink go Bitstream.

is this the same for HDMI sound output?


----------



## ensmarcum

I am using the radio shack brand which has worked flawlessly until today. I can use my D2 again but it doesnt finish the process. I searched hi and low to find another cable but nobody sells them. BB had one that i used and it didnt work either. when i use my computer with vista, the programer stops at the oki loader. when i use the xp computer it stops at the video processor part. i am going to try to get another cable and see how that works. i dont know though. really need to find a solution quick though.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> let me know if my questions get dumb or If I am over doing it with them..



Remember Trevlan, there is no such thing as a dumb question, only dumb people who ask them










ensmarcum,

sorry to be repetitive but did you try a straight serial to serial cable with your neighbor's pc?

I only say this because I bricked and I mean bricked my former D1 some time ago trying to update with a USB\\Serial cable. My drivers were all good, etc.

I had to manually clear one of the eproms with tweezers and start from scratch.

None of the erase programs worked.

Once I used the straight serial cable, bang, no problemo.


----------



## TREVLAN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/11882496
> 
> 
> Remember Trevlan, there is no such thing as a dumb question, only dumb people who ask them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Ouch what happend to the love in this thread?


So would anyone know if I should use liner PCM or Bitstream over HDMI from the PS3?


----------



## thebland

LPCM...if it is stable...


----------



## tbui57

I set up the AVM50 video out to 1920x1080p/24, preferred input to HDMI as specified in the manual. If I select BD player to ouput 1080p/24, standard def DVD looks good. If I set the BD player to "source direct" to let the AVM do the video upscaling, the picture is not as good as before.


My understanding is the Gennum video processing is much better than my BD player. Did I miss-configure the AVM50 ? or the video upscale only apply to component input ?


Thanks a bunch,


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11881363
> 
> 
> PCM or Bitstream sound output from PS3?
> 
> 
> I heard if you use Toslink go Bitstream.
> 
> is this the same for HDMI sound output?



The basic story is this: if you are watching a blu-ray DVD with uncompressed audio use PCM; if you are watching a DVD with Dolby Digital go with Bitstream.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11883729
> 
> 
> So would anyone know if I should use liner PCM or Bitstream over HDMI from the PS3?



Use bitstream when playing legacy "lossy" packed audio formats -- i.e., DD5.1 or DTS from standard DVDs. The Anthem will decode those for you.


Use PCM for everything else -- including Blu-Ray packed audio formats and raw PCM tracks, and SACD.


I don't own a PS3, but there should be an "automatic" setting in it for HDMI audio that does just this.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11884441
> 
> 
> I don't own a PS3, but there should be an "automatic" setting in it for HDMI audio that does just this.
> 
> --Bob



I do have a PS3 and I don't think that it has this option, although I wish that it did!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/11883858
> 
> 
> I set up the AVM50 video out to 1920x1080p/24, preferred input to HDMI as specified in the manual. If I select BD player to ouput 1080p/24, standard def DVD looks good. If I set the BD player to "source direct" to let the AVM do the video upscaling, the picture is not as good as before.
> 
> 
> My understanding is the Gennum video processing is much better than my BD player. Did I miss-configure the AVM50 ? or the video upscale only apply to component input ?
> 
> 
> Thanks a bunch,



What is being sent to the Anthem when you set "source direct" in the player? You can tell by looking at the Video Source Adjust / Info panel (hold the "7" key on the Anthem remote while viewing that source).


If you are sending 480i/60 or 1080i/60 then you will see problems, even if the content is a movie. 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion in the Anthem is not working yet. Anthem is still working on that. 480i/60 or 1080i/60 input should be output as /60 video from the Anthem.


------------------------------------------


If your TV can accept 1080p/24 *AND ALSO* will display it at a multiple of 24 fps, then you should install the V1.12s Anthem software (also labeled V1.2 when installed by the factory). This software has significant improvements for those wanting to view /24 video.


With that software you can set up two Video Output configurations that can be assigned to any input device. Set up one as 1080p/24 output from the Anthem, set up the other as 1080p/60.


When viewing a Blu-Ray disc, have the player output 1080p/24, and set the Anthem to use its 1080p/24 Video Output configuration.


When viewing a standard DVD dsc, have the player output 480i/60, and set the Anthem to use its 1080p/60 Video Output configuration.


Switching between 1080p/24 and 480i/60 according to the type of disc you are playing should be what your "source direct" setting is doing in the player, but perhaps not.


[NOTE: When playing SACD or DVD-Audio discs, make sure the player is sending out 720p or higher video over HDMI. You should use /60 video for these discs as well.]


When viewing television, also use the Anthem's 1080p/60 Video Output configuration. For SDTV, send 480i/60 to the Anthem. For HDTV send 720p or 1080i/60 to the Anthem according to what's coming in on the channel at the moment.


To make things more convenient for using the Blu-Ray player, define two "overlayed" input definitions in the Anthem (e.g., DVD1 and DVD2). Assign the two Video Output configurations to each of them much the way you could assign the Cinema or Music speaker configuration to any input. Use the one with the 1080p/24 Video Output assigned to watch Blu-Ray discs. Use the one with the 1080p/60 Video Output assigned to watch standard DVD discs.


Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock should be set to OFF for all your inputs when doing things this way.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11877924
> 
> 
> Well I think I figured out the problem. When my box is outputting 480i standard, it will not allow me to do a stretch only normal, zoom1 and zoom2. But on 1080i it has normal, stretch, zoom1 and zoom2. Anyone know why? Should I be using 480i widescreen in the setup of the 8300?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 480i widescreen does allow me to do stetch but when I set the box for pass-through it does not recognize sd material as 480i wide but as 480i standard. If I force the box by selecting fixed output mode to 480i standard it does allow me to stretch but it stretches the picture vertically.
> 
> 
> If I force the box to 480i wide and leave it on normal, the picture has the proper height but is skinnier than regular sd material with pillar boxes on the sides. When I select stretch on 480i wide it the fills the proper width for sd material with the pillar boxes on the sides. My tv channel guide for my cable is also much skinnier than normal when on this mode. Is this right??



If you can't get your box to NOT generate pillar box bars around SD content, and if it is not sending the correct aspect ratio stuff to the Anthem for the Anthem to know the box is providing the bars then:


* Let the box generate pillar box bars for SD content. This is not ideal for best viewing quality, but you've got to work with what the box will do.


* Set Video Source Adjust / Scale Out = Anamorphic in the Anthem.


This combo should give you a properly shaped image for both SD and HD viewing.


Consider getting a new TV set top box.


Also consider trying Component video and optical audio from the box to the Anthem. The box may work more intelligently over Component than over HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## tbui57

Thanks Bob.


I have AVM firmware version 1.2 (aka 1.12). I will try the 1080p/60 for the standard DVD tonight. My best regards to you...


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11883729
> 
> 
> Ouch what happend to the love in this thread?



I hope you know I was making a dumb joke. Seriously no offense intended in the slightest.


----------



## TREVLAN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11884441
> 
> 
> Use bitstream when playing legacy "lossy" packed audio formats -- i.e., DD5.1 or DTS from standard DVDs. The Anthem will decode those for you.
> 
> 
> Use PCM for everything else -- including Blu-Ray packed audio formats and raw PCM tracks, and SACD.
> 
> 
> I don't own a PS3, but there should be an "automatic" setting in it for HDMI audio that does just this.
> 
> --Bob




No auto mode so I must remember to switch back-n-forth.


Milt99, none taken at all I know you meant it as a joke I can see from the posts in this thread that none of that crap goes on in it.


----------



## cosmos5861

Anyone here using Anthem with Panasonic TH50pf9uk?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11843827
> 
> 
> Is 12s the version shipping with NEW UNITS?
> 
> 
> It just seems wrong that you are getting blue
> 
> screens with DVR Component out to Anthem.
> 
> 
> There is NO Handshake with any Component
> 
> signals.



It appears there is a delay in resolution switching. That said I just received the production 1.21 which is imminent. It appears to be more stable, but still has some blue screen res switching still. I can live with a blue pause if the video is getting properly upconverted from native source res.


Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11888791
> 
> 
> It appears there is a delay in resolution switching. That said I just received the production 1.21 which is imminent. It appears to be more stable, but still has some blue screen res switching still. I can live with a blue pause if the video is getting properly upconverted from native source res.
> 
> 
> Tim



Interesting news Tim! Any other info on what is supposed to have change in V1.21?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/11888063
> 
> 
> Anyone here using Anthem with Panasonic TH50pf9uk?



What's the nature of your question? Folks using other Panasonic models may also be able to help.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11888791
> 
> 
> It appears there is a delay in resolution switching. That said I just received the production 1.21 which is imminent. It appears to be more stable, but still has some blue screen res switching still. I can live with a blue pause if the video is getting properly upconverted from native source res.
> 
> 
> Tim



I think - [of course I could be wrong] - but I

think it is IMPOSSIBLE to make the HDMI

blue screen switching go away. I assume that

is coming directly from the DVR box as a Blue

Screen while it decides yet one more time if

everything is OK


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11888885
> 
> 
> I think - [of course I could be wrong] - but I
> 
> think it is IMPOSSIBLE to make the HDMI
> 
> blue screen switching go away. I assume that
> 
> is coming directly from the DVR box as a Blue
> 
> Screen while it decides yet one more time if
> 
> everything is OK



I'm still going to guess it is resolution changes since I only use component with DVRs







unless you think it's the HDMI to DVI to projector that's thinking even if the inbound source is component ?


Bob,

I know a support link went out with some updated materials (but it looks like for a new beta 1.21b vs the production rev). I don't notice any new features (there may be) but the stability is the key for me.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

I am seeing a lot of Posterization on my screen from any source...dvd, hd dvd, comcast dvd through my infocus. If you do not know what it is (i didn't) here is a link explaining it. Needless to say it drives me crazy.

http://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia_te...i=49550,00.asp 



I have an infocus 7205 hooked up to the D2 via hdmi. I see this artifact all the time. Could there be something wrong with my D2 to cause this or would it be my display?


Anyone else experience this? Anyone able to eliminate or mostly elimate this with their set up? If so, let me know what you are running!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/11889875
> 
> 
> I am seeing a lot of Posterization on my screen from any source...dvd, hd dvd, comcast dvd through my infocus. If you do not know what it is (i didn't) here is a link explaining it. Needless to say it drives me crazy.
> 
> http://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia_te...i=49550,00.asp
> 
> 
> 
> I have an infocus 7205 hooked up to the D2 via hdmi. I see this artifact all the time. Could there be something wrong with my D2 to cause this or would it be my display?
> 
> 
> Anyone else experience this? Anyone able to eliminate or mostly elimate this with their set up? If so, let me know what you are running!



Artifacts like that could be the result of a poorly engineered projector or a fault in the D2, but almost always this sort of stuff just boils down to improper video setup and calibration.


Take a look at the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.


Double check the picture mode you are using in the projector and whether you have turned off its video "enhancement" features. Double check your D2's Setup / Video Output settings. Preference should be HDMI or Component depending on what you are using for the projector. Color Space should be HDTV if you are sending 720p or higher to the projector. Also check the options for Data Format. Your projector may be happier receiving RGB instead of YCbCr, or YCbCr 4:4:4 instead of 4:2:2.


If these checks don't give you an easy answer, then the next step is to carefully and patiently follow the instructions in that post on how to set up, first, the D2's video output and your projector's video level settings to best reproduce that output, and, second, the video into the D2 from each source and the D2's input level setting adjustments found in the Video Source Adjust menu.


Also, make sure you have not accidentally turned on Video Source Adjust / Scale Out = Zoom. The "Zoom" feature should never be used for normal viewing.


When you have finished with the instructions in that post, look for smooth gray scale and color ramp charts in your video calibration DVD. Do you still see significant signs of banding in those? If so, something is still misadjusted. Indeed, there may be stuff that needs to be adjusted in the service menus of your projector. You can learn more about video calibration in the video calibration forum here (or just ask in this thread), or you can hire a professional -- an ISF Technician -- to come in and do the job for you.


Another test is to connect a source such as your DVD player directly to the projector, adjust the projector's video levels with the aid of your calibration DVD, and see if you still get banding. This will help you figure out if the fault lies in your projector.


Modern digital displays are finicky about correct level settings. Posterization is usually a result of poorly set Blacks and Whites levels (Brightness and Contrast control respectively.)

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

OK my remote guy came today.

I am now hooked up with version 1.21b for the software.


Don';t know what to tell you guys that is defferant.

My 1080i/p over component bug went away.

I still "sometimes" get the blue screen its more when it switched the cable box from a 480i/720p up to 1080i this is the only time I see it other wise when I go from 1080i to 1080i channel it does not do this.

Ok Im going to watch a movie chat soon and thx again to everyone for the help here and there.


P.S. waiting for my ISF guy to come back as the cable channels HD or not look like crap again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11890919
> 
> 
> OK my remote guy came today.
> 
> I am now hooked up with version 1.21b for the software.
> 
> 
> Don';t know what to tell you guys that is defferant.
> 
> My 1080i/p over component bug went away.
> 
> I still "sometimes" get the blue screen its more when it switched the cable box from a 480i/720p up to 1080i this is the only time I see it other wise when I go from 1080i to 1080i channel it does not do this.
> 
> Ok Im going to watch a movie chat soon and thx again to everyone for the help here and there.
> 
> 
> P.S. waiting for my ISF guy to come back as the cable channels HD or not look like crap again.



The HDMI handshake from the cable set top box to the Anthem only needs to be redone when you change output resolutions.


So there will be no new handshake when you change between SD channels or HD channels at the same video resolution.


The source device periodically checks the copy protection while you are viewing, but you won't see that unless the check fails and the handshake has to be redone (rare in a properly installed setup).

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11889760
> 
> 
> I'm still going to guess it is resolution changes since I only use component with DVRs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> unless you think it's the HDMI to DVI to projector that's thinking even if the inbound source is component ?



Tim - that is a GOOD POINT.


Are you saying you have BOTH a HDMI connector in

your DVR as well as COMPONENT?


On my SONY DVRs -- If I plug any HDMI connector

in my DVR - It disables Component. Maybe yours

keeps them BOTH active and you get the HDMI

delays even if you are not really using them


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11891423
> 
> 
> Tim - that is a GOOD POINT.
> 
> 
> Are you saying you have BOTH a HDMI connector in
> 
> your DVR as well as COMPONENT?
> 
> 
> On my SONY DVRs -- If I plug any HDMI connector
> 
> in my DVR - It disables Component. Maybe yours
> 
> keeps them BOTH active and you get the HDMI
> 
> delays even if you are not really using them



No, only using component. The HDMI connector I was talking about was from the AVM to the projector (with a DVI adapter). I don't think that connection would trigger a resync on a component source so I'm left thinking, like TREVLAN, that it is the video res change that's causing the blue screen before the video syncs. Typically happens in a 720p to 1080i source shift.



I know I could get the DVR to output 1080i all the time, but I really want the native rate into the AVM, and can live with the blue screens (with latest software at least the picture comes back after a couple seconds)


----------



## TREVLAN

rudolpht same thing when going from 480i to 1080i no blue screen.

but 720p tp 1080i always for 1/2 a sec or so I get it.

I am using the 3250 rogers HD box if that even helps at all.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11891587
> 
> 
> No, only using component. The HDMI connector I was talking about was from the AVM to the projector (with a DVI adapter). I don't think that connection would trigger a resync on a component source so I'm left thinking, like TREVLAN, that it is the video res change that's causing the blue screen before the video syncs. Typically happens in a 720p to 1080i source shift.
> 
> 
> 
> I know I could get the DVR to output 1080i all the time, but I really want the native rate into the AVM, and can live with the blue screens (with latest software at least the picture comes back after a couple seconds)



I have a similar issue with my TiVo Series 3. My D2 is connected to my projector (Marantz VP-12S3) via HDMI to DVI cable. In the past, my TiVo was connected to my D2 via HDMI. I was getting the blue screen when switching resolutions (this was with v1.11 and 1.11g firmware on the D2). I switched to using component out from TiVo to the D2. Same problem - I would get the bluescreen occasionally when resolution would switch. When switching from one 1080i channel to another 1080i channel, no problem. But sometimes when switching to different resolutions, I would get the blue screen. Note that the native resolution of TiVo menus is 720p, so bringing up the menu may also cause a resolution switch. I also have this problem with version 1.20 of the D2 firmware. When I get the blue screen, switching sources on the D2 and back to the Tivo might help, but sometimes I have to restart the D2. I got tired of this issue, so I made my TiVo always output 1080i. With 1080i, things work fine, but I'm not taking advantage of the D2's scaler with non-1080i sources. Anyone else have this issue with the TiVo Series 3 and the D2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/11893033
> 
> 
> I have a similar issue with my TiVo Series 3. My D2 is connected to my projector (Marantz VP-12S3) via HDMI to DVI cable. In the past, my TiVo was connected to my D2 via HDMI. I was getting the blue screen when switching resolutions (this was with v1.11 and 1.11g firmware on the D2). I switched to using component out from TiVo to the D2. Same problem - I would get the bluescreen occasionally when resolution would switch. When switching from one 1080i channel to another 1080i channel, no problem. But sometimes when switching to different resolutions, I would get the blue screen. Note that the native resolution of TiVo menus is 720p, so bringing up the menu may also cause a resolution switch. I also have this problem with version 1.20 of the D2 firmware. When I get the blue screen, switching sources on the D2 and back to the Tivo might help, but sometimes I have to restart the D2. I got tired of this issue, so I made my TiVo always output 1080i. With 1080i, things work fine, but I'm not taking advantage of the D2's scaler with non-1080i sources. Anyone else have this issue with the TiVo Series 3 and the D2?



It is very strange to have a problem like this with Component input unless the source device itself has a problem.


The Anthem converts all processed video input to 1080p regardless of what's being sent in. That intermediate result is then converted to your Video Output setting. So long as you have Frame Lock = Off set for the input, the video ouput from the Anthem does not change due to the input resolution changing. So there's no reason for a new HDMI handshake on the output side just because Component input video resolution changed.


So either the source has a problem and isn't really sending out what it is supposed to be sending out, or the Anthem is having a problem recognizing and locking on to the Component video input signal.


When receiving Component video input the Anthem has to recognize and sync to the signal. For anyone familiar with multi-sync monitors you'll know that this will result in a brief flicker, but that's it. The change should be very quick (there's no refresh rate to change or anything). It should be way faster than the 1-2 seconds needed for an HDMI handshake.


----------------------------------


In any event, the Tivo S3 is a popular enough device that Anthem should already be familiar with it. If they are not seeing this problem in the lab then that points to either a faulty S3 or a faulty Anthem in your house, or just possibly faulty Component cables.


I take it you've tried Component from the S3 directly to your TV and you've seen no problems when switching resolutions in the S3?


Are there any firmware updates pending for the S3?

--Bob


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11888829
> 
> 
> Interesting news Tim! Any other info on what is supposed to have change in V1.21?
> 
> --Bob



Here's the list from Anthem relative to v1.20:


CHANGE LIST


v1.21b:


1. 2-line display shows input resolution in upper line and volume in lower line.


2. Menus 6 and 7 show renamed source names beside factory source names.


3. Enabled HDMI audio-in when no HDMI display is connected.


4. Fix in handling of macrovision encoded analog video sources, especially if both video-out configurations are used.


5. Fixed Component2 passthrough mode.


6. Improvements to installer stability with various PC and hardware combinations.


IF YOU ARE USING PROCESSED COMPONENT OUTPUT FROM THE PREAMP, DO NOT INSTALL THIS VERSION WITHOUT CONTACTING ANTHEM TECH SUPPORT FIRST - picture artifacts may otherwise result.


----------



## AnthemAVM

Bob,


Quick question, I am starting to see more blue screens when watching my 8300HD passed to the D2 with on a HDMI cable. The picture switches to blue, during a program, not a commercial, I don't loose sound just the picture for a second then it comes back on.


Any ideas?


I am using 1.20.


Thanks


----------



## cosmos5861




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11888844
> 
> 
> What's the nature of your question? Folks using other Panasonic models may also be able to help.
> 
> --Bob



Trying to share setting info.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/11894050
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Quick question, I am starting to see more blue screens when watching my 8300HD passed to the D2 with on a HDMI cable. The picture switches to blue, during a program, not a commercial, I don't loose sound just the picture for a second then it comes back on.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> I am using 1.20.
> 
> 
> Thanks



The HDMI source periodically rechecks the copy protection while you are watching. Normally you won't see that. But if it fails, the video will be muted for a second or two while it retries.


Usually this is a result of an inadequate HDMI cable or of a cable that's not fully inserted straight into the socket with no stress to any side.


You could also see this if your cable TV signal is marginal and you are momentarily losing the signal for that channel. Try a different channel. If the problem occurs on lots of channels then check your HDMI cabling.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/11894015
> 
> 
> Here's the list from Anthem relative to v1.20:
> 
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v1.21b:
> 
> 
> 1. 2-line display shows input resolution in upper line and volume in lower line.
> 
> 
> 2. Menus 6 and 7 show renamed source names beside factory source names.
> 
> 
> 3. Enabled HDMI audio-in when no HDMI display is connected.
> 
> 
> 4. Fix in handling of macrovision encoded analog video sources, especially if both video-out configurations are used.
> 
> 
> 5. Fixed Component2 passthrough mode.
> 
> 
> 6. Improvements to installer stability with various PC and hardware combinations.
> 
> 
> IF YOU ARE USING PROCESSED COMPONENT OUTPUT FROM THE PREAMP, DO NOT INSTALL THIS VERSION WITHOUT CONTACTING ANTHEM TECH SUPPORT FIRST - picture artifacts may otherwise result.



Thanks! I see a few V1.20 bugs have been fixed that we've been discussing here. I take it you've got no details on the processed Component output issue.


And apparently there's been no progress on 480i or 1080i conversion to 1080p/24 yet, either. I guess that's proving a tough nut for them to crack.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/11893033
> 
> 
> I have a similar issue with my TiVo Series 3. My D2 is connected to my projector (Marantz VP-12S3) via HDMI to DVI cable. In the past, my TiVo was connected to my D2 via HDMI. I was getting the blue screen when switching resolutions (this was with v1.11 and 1.11g firmware on the D2). I switched to using component out from TiVo to the D2. Same problem - I would get the bluescreen occasionally when resolution would switch. When switching from one 1080i channel to another 1080i channel, no problem. But sometimes when switching to different resolutions, I would get the blue screen. Note that the native resolution of TiVo menus is 720p, so bringing up the menu may also cause a resolution switch. I also have this problem with version 1.20 of the D2 firmware. When I get the blue screen, switching sources on the D2 and back to the Tivo might help, but sometimes I have to restart the D2. I got tired of this issue, so I made my TiVo always output 1080i. With 1080i, things work fine, but I'm not taking advantage of the D2's scaler with non-1080i sources. Anyone else have this issue with the TiVo Series 3 and the D2?



This is exactly my experience with the S3. Exactly. I'm just too stubborn to switch to 1080i constant output.


Bob,

I believe "Anthem is having a problem recognizing and locking on to the Component video input signal" is the issue. With the newer firmware at least the picture doesn't go tango uniform, BUT there is a momentary blue screen 720p->1080i & a shorter interval 1080i-> 720p. The newer firmware is better to the extent that the picture doesn't get lost requiring a toggle between resolutions or a reboot of the Anthem or Tivo.


Tim


----------



## Tim Winders

Well, I broke down and bought a TivoHD to replace my LG 3410. I have it connected by HDMI. I tried to use Native resolution, but the constant blue screens when changing channels really bothered my wife, so I changed to fixed 1080i output from the THD. I never tried component connections (yeah, yeah, I know everything I said above, blah!). With fixed 1080i output and HDMI I haven't seen any bluescreens or other problems. I'd be willing to bet the picture is just about the same as Native with Component cables plus TOSLink audio.


If I "run out" of HDMI connections on the D2, I'll switch the THD to component, but, for now, I only have 2 sources, so it's not a problem.


=== Tim


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11894420
> 
> 
> Well, I broke down and bought a TivoHD to replace my LG 3410. I have it connected by HDMI. I tried to use Native resolution, but the constant blue screens when changing channels really bothered my wife, so I changed to fixed 1080i output from the THD. I never tried component connections (yeah, yeah, I know everything I said above, blah!). With fixed 1080i output and HDMI I haven't seen any bluescreens or other problems. I'd be willing to bet the picture is just about the same as Native with Component cables plus TOSLink audio.
> 
> 
> If I "run out" of HDMI connections on the D2, I'll switch the THD to component, but, for now, I only have 2 sources, so it's not a problem.
> 
> 
> === Tim



This seems to indicate it is the res changes, not HDMI specific.


Maybe Anthem can work this. They do know about the issue from several folks.


I Hate to think about going fixed 1080i. No don't do it. No don't do it. If Tivo menus were 1080i it would be less an issue. No don't do it. No don't do it. Don't give up a multi-thousand dollar processor for momentary blue screens.... I guess I'll try it. Noooooooooooooooooooh.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11894499
> 
> 
> This seems to indicate it is the res changes, not HDMI specific.
> 
> 
> Maybe Anthem can work this. They do know about the issue from several folks.
> 
> 
> I Hate to think about going fixed 1080i. No don't do it. No don't do it. If Tivo menus were 1080i it would be less an issue. No don't do it. No don't do it. Don't give up a multi-thousand dollar processor for momentary blue screens.... I guess I'll try it. Noooooooooooooooooooh.



I'm thinking it's the res change and not an HDMI issue. I'll be if I put the THD on native resolution with component connections, I'd see the same blue screens. Just a hunch, but not sure I want to rip apart everything just to test this when I have it working.










Fortunately for me, most, if not all, of the HDTV programming I watch is 1080i native. So, leaving the THD in 1080i fixed mode isn't a problem. I only get the THD doing scaling on it's own menus and on 480i SD content. That content is usually so "bad" anyway, I don't think there would be an appreciable difference between the D2 doing the scaling and the THD. And if there is, I don't know if it's worth the blue screen headaches.


Now, if there was significant (any?) 720P HDTV content I wanted to watch, I might be willing to deal with the blue screens so not to have the THD monkeying with the signal.


Yeah, it would be nice if the D2 could haven't resolution changes better. I haven't seen how other video processors handle this to make a comparison.


=== Tim


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht*  /forum/post/11894499
> 
> 
> If Tivo menus were 1080i it would be less an issue.



Tim - Now I have yet another reason to LIKE my (5) SONY DVRs










All the menus are 1080i. I can't imagine a brain dead unit

sending 1080i Video and then Low-Resolution Menus. That

is 1990 technology


----------



## Bob Pariseau

HDMI is a different issue entirely.


A source video resolution change HAS TO result in a new HDMI handshake. There's no way around that. The copy protection needs to be re-established at the new resolution.


If it were just on channel changes (for "native" resolution output) that would be one thing. But apparently the S3 also changes resolutions when you go into it's own menus and guide. That's poor design on Tivo's part.


An HDMI handshake will take a second or two. There's no way around that. Delay times for response and processing on both sides are built into the handshake spec. So you are going to get flicker and some blue screen for every HDMI handshake. But that should resolve itself in a second or two EVERY TIME.


Now if the HDMI handshake fails -- if you end up with a blue screen that doesn't return to normal video in 1 to 2 seconds, then something is wrong. It could be poor engineering in the S3. It could be a marginal HDMI cable. And it could be software problem in the Anthem.


---------------------------------------------------


But NONE of the above applies to Component video, or rather it shouldn't apply. It is still a nuisance that the S3 is changing resolutions when you bring up its own menus/guide, but there is no copy protection handshake involved.


The S3 has to stabilize it's Component video output at the new resolution and the Anthem has to lock on to that. That should happen quite quickly. If it is not happening quickly for each resolution change over Component cables then something is wrong. Again, either the S3 is not producing proper video output with each change, or the Anthem is not properly detecting and locking on to it.


But this is not related to the handshake delays for an HDMI connection.


The problem, if there is one, in the Anthem is likely in its analog to digital video converter -- the thing that locks on to the incoming Component video analog signal and converts it to digital for further processing.


It is also possible that the Anthem is mistakenly doing an HDMI handshake on the output (TV) side for no good reason. It shouldn't have to do this.


--------------------------------------------


It would be good if we could isolate why some S3 owners don't seem to be having this problem, if in fact that is the case.


So, we need to hear from anyone in this thread who is:


* Using an S3 via Component cables to the Anthem


* With output via HDMI to the TV


* With the S3 set to change video resolutions whenever it wants to


Let's see if we can nail down how many such folks are having Blue Screen problems at the point the S3 is changing Component video output resolutions.


If you reply, please state the Anthem software version you are using. And, if you are having Component input blue screen problems from the S3, how long does the Blue Screen last: Always brief? Always a long time? Variable length of time? Sometimes it never recovers without additional user action (e.g., changing the Anthem to a different input and back).


Again the idea is to find out whether the problem is affecting all S3 users, whether it is specific to some version(s) of Anthem software, and what might be different for folks who are not seeing any such significant problem.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11895017
> 
> 
> Yeah, it would be nice if the D2 could haven't resolution changes better. I haven't seen how other video processors handle this to make a comparison.
> 
> 
> === Tim



PUT the BLAME where it belongs with the LAME TiVo


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11895305
> 
> 
> PUT the BLAME where it belongs with the LAME TiVo



Well, I suppose so. But it's not really fair to compare a $xxx piece of equipment with a $xxxx piece. But, think about this... The TiVo is getting multiple input resolutions (480i, 720p, 1080i) and can either pass those straight through or fix them to a certain resolution. In my case, I have chosen 1080i fixed so the D2 won't blue screen on me between resolution changes. Now, when the resolution input changes on the TiVo, it doesn't freak out, it continues to output a constant 1080i signal. But, when the input signal on the D2 changes, it does freak out. Just something to ponder...


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11895057
> 
> 
> Tim - Now I have yet another reason to LIKE my (5) SONY DVRs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the menus are 1080i. I can't imagine a brain dead unit
> 
> sending 1080i Video and then Low-Resolution Menus. That
> 
> is 1990 technology



Low res menus? 720P isn't exactly low res. Not quite 1080i, but, the stored videos on the TiVo (setup instructions) played at 720P look very nice.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11895126
> 
> 
> HDMI is a different issue entirely.
> 
> 
> A source video resolution change HAS TO result in a new HDMI handshake. There's no way around that. The copy protection needs to be re-established at the new resolution.



OK. I understand that. But it doesn't explain why some have commented they get the same resolution handshaking issue on component, unless it's the dreaded component bug and upgrading firmware on the D2 will fix that. I haven't paid close enough attention to the exact configurations.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11895126
> 
> 
> If it were just on channel changes (for "native" resolution output) that would be one thing. But apparently the S3 also changes resolutions when you go into it's own menus and guide. That's poor design on Tivo's part.



I hate to "defend" TiVo, but I need to correct this statement. The TiVo menus are 720P. If you have the TiVo set to native output and you were watching a 1080i source, bringing up the TiVo menu would change the resolution to 720P and cause a re-sync over HDMI. That's expected. But, if the menus were 1080i and you were watching a 480i or 720P source you'd have the same issue.


This is the not case with the Guide. When you pull up the guide, it's an overlay of the current screen and the resolution does not change, so there are no handshaking issues.


I'm not sure how this can be called a poor design.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11895126
> 
> 
> An HDMI handshake will take a second or two. There's no way around that. Delay times for response and processing on both sides are built into the handshake spec. So you are going to get flicker and some blue screen for every HDMI handshake. But that should resolve itself in a second or two EVERY TIME.
> 
> 
> Now if the HDMI handshake fails -- if you end up with a blue screen that doesn't return to normal video in 1 to 2 seconds, then something is wrong. It could be poor engineering in the S3. It could be a marginal HDMI cable. And it could be software problem in the Anthem.



I did have this problem a few times with the TiVo HD when I had it in navtive mode. Very annoying. I ended up changing the source on the D2 then changing back and everything sync'd back up again. I have not had the problem since going to fixed 1080i.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11895126
> 
> 
> It would be good if we could isolate why some S3 owners don't seem to be having this problem, if in fact that is the case.
> 
> 
> So, we need to hear from anyone in this thread who is:
> 
> 
> * Using an S3 via Component cables to the Anthem
> 
> 
> * With output via HDMI to the TV
> 
> 
> * With the S3 set to change video resolutions whenever it wants to



If it would help, I will make the changes to my THD so I can test to see if I have this problem.


Reading over my message, I feel like I'm bashing Anthem and supporting TiVo. Not the case at all. Just making my observations as an owner of the equipment.


=== Tim


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11895851
> 
> 
> Low res menus? 720P isn't exactly low res. Not quite 1080i, but, the stored videos on the TiVo (setup instructions) played at 720P look very nice.



I'm just going by Tim's Comments.


I would not own a TiVo because I refuse to PAY the FEES.


My (5) DVRs are FREE.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11896149
> 
> 
> I'm just going by Tim's Comments.
> 
> 
> I would not own a TiVo because I refuse to PAY the FEES.
> 
> 
> My (5) DVRs are FREE.



Well, I understand that. Took me 4? 5? years to finally go over to the dark side. But, that's not the point of this thread.


----------



## rudolpht

Bob,


Test 1 - S3 component to Anthem to JVC 1080p DVI projector


720p -> 1080i res change 4 seconds

1080i-> 720p res change 3 seconds

1080i->1080i instant


Test 2 - S3 component to Anthem to LCD TV component (Component 2 on Anthem out)


720p -> 1080i res change 4 seconds (black screen muting vs blue screen)

1080i-> 720p res change 3 seconds (black screen muting vs blue screen)

1080i -> 1080i instant


Test 3 - TivoHD component to Philips tube HDTV (NO Anthem)


720p -> 1080i res change instant

1080i-> 720p res change instant

1080i -> 1080i instant


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11895126
> 
> 
> It would be good if we could isolate why some S3 owners don't seem to be having this problem, if in fact that is the case.
> 
> 
> So, we need to hear from anyone in this thread who is:
> 
> 
> * Using an S3 via Component cables to the Anthem
> 
> 
> * With output via HDMI to the TV
> 
> 
> * With the S3 set to change video resolutions whenever it wants to
> 
> 
> Let's see if we can nail down how many such folks are having Blue Screen problems at the point the S3 is changing Component video output resolutions.
> 
> 
> If you reply, please state the Anthem software version you are using. And, if you are having Component input blue screen problems from the S3, how long does the Blue Screen last: Always brief? Always a long time? Variable length of time? Sometimes it never recovers without additional user action (e.g., changing the Anthem to a different input and back).
> 
> 
> Again the idea is to find out whether the problem is affecting all S3 users, whether it is specific to some version(s) of Anthem software, and what might be different for folks who are not seeing any such significant problem.
> 
> --Bob



OK. Doing these tests wasn't as hard as I thought. I simply moved the component cables from my LG to the TiVo, then I was able to change the inputs on the D2 to move between the HDMI output from the THD and the component output.


My setup:


TiVo HD (Sieries 3) version 8.1.7c2 (this should update automatically to 9.1, right?)

D2 version 1.2 (from factory)

HDMI out from D2 to Epson HomeCinema 1080 projector - [email protected]


With the THD set to fixed 1080i output, I never get a blue screen on the D2 with either the HDMI nor Component Inputs.


With the THD set to Native output, I get the same results with both HDMI and Component Connections. When the THD changes resolutions, I get a brief 1-2sec blue screen.


As you state above, Bob, this should not happen on Component, but I get the same results on HDMI and Component. I know I was testing the right outputs from the THD because I was changing inputs on the D2, each configured with different sources.


=== Tim


----------



## hantman

Just FYI, I am using TiVo Series 3 with component output to an AVM-50 with 1.2g, and I output to my Panasonic 1080p TV through HDMI. No blue screens, ever.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hantman* /forum/post/11897429
> 
> 
> Just FYI, I am using TiVo Series 3 with component output to an AVM-50 with 1.2g, and I output to my Panasonic 1080p TV through HDMI. No blue screens, ever.



How many 720p sources are you feeding it?


----------



## rudolpht

I tried the S3 1080i Hybrid mode which definitely softens 720p content, but it at least lets the Anthem do the 480i processing.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11897493
> 
> 
> I tried the S3 1080i Hybrid mode which definitely softens 720p content, but it at least lets the Anthem do the 480i processing.



I'm not sure about the S3, but with the THD the 1080i Hybrid mode converts 720P to 1080i and 480i to 480P. So, it would let the D2 do the scaling, but the TiVo is still doing the deinterlacing.


----------



## dschamis

How do I get the latest firmware - 1.21? The website still only has 1.11.


----------



## TREVLAN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/11899502
> 
> 
> How do I get the latest firmware - 1.21? The website still only has 1.11.



EMAIL anthem and the will mail you out a copy.

Or wait about one month and it will be up on the site.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11900046
> 
> 
> EMAIL anthem and the will mail you out a copy.
> 
> Or wait about one month and it will be up on the site.



I don't know if I would promise a month.


It has been a year that we been waiting.


----------



## drmabuse

I have a question for the oracles...this is something I have not been able to get my head around and perhaps I am missing something.

It is regarding all the different audio codecs (DD-THD,DTS-HD and so on).

I have the Panasonic BD and Toshiba XA-2 hooked up to my D2 thru HDMI.

When I call up the display on the D2 everything appears to be coming across as "6-ch 48khz" - does this make sense? I keep reading that all of these different audio streams output different. How can I see what is actually being sent to the D2? The onscreen displays on the disc players simply state the stream, not the detail.

Hopefully this is not an absolutely moronic question and if so I apologize in advance but I am very confused...

Insight anyone?

/\\/\\


----------



## randman

My TiVo S3 has the recently released firmware version 9.1. The blue screen issue when using the S3's native output still occurs with version 9.1. Same behavior with v1.11, v1.11g and v1.12 of the D2. I have FrameLock=off in the D2. Yes, I used native output mode of the S3 for many months, but grew tired of the blue screen. It wasn't too bad getting the blue screen for a second or two but if having to switch sources or restarting the D2 made me go to the "dark" side (i.e. fixed 1080i output). If it were just me using the system, I may have stuck with native output mode, but my wife doesn't appreciate "native" output benefits outweighing the disadvantage of the blue screen. The only time I REALLY care about native output is when I watch 720p HDTV sources (ABC & ESPN). For 1080i sources, the TiVo outputs 1080i whether in native mode or 1080i fixed mode. For 480i sources, my expectation of 480i sources is very low anyway, so whether the S3 or the D2 does the deinterlacing/scaling doesn't make me too picky.


Anyway, I sent email to Anthem regarding this issue (in case they haven't heard enough from other folks). For you other S3 owners, it may help them to hear about your experiences as well.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11890127
> 
> 
> Artifacts like that could be the result of a poorly engineered projector or a fault in the D2, but almost always this sort of stuff just boils down to improper video setup and calibration.
> 
> 
> Take a look at the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> Double check the picture mode you are using in the projector and whether you have turned off its video "enhancement" features. Double check your D2's Setup / Video Output settings. Preference should be HDMI or Component depending on what you are using for the projector. Color Space should be HDTV if you are sending 720p or higher to the projector. Also check the options for Data Format. Your projector may be happier receiving RGB instead of YCbCr, or YCbCr 4:4:4 instead of 4:2:2.
> 
> 
> If these checks don't give you an easy answer, then the next step is to carefully and patiently follow the instructions in that post on how to set up, first, the D2's video output and your projector's video level settings to best reproduce that output, and, second, the video into the D2 from each source and the D2's input level setting adjustments found in the Video Source Adjust menu.
> 
> 
> Also, make sure you have not accidentally turned on Video Source Adjust / Scale Out = Zoom. The "Zoom" feature should never be used for normal viewing.
> 
> 
> When you have finished with the instructions in that post, look for smooth gray scale and color ramp charts in your video calibration DVD. Do you still see significant signs of banding in those? If so, something is still misadjusted. Indeed, there may be stuff that needs to be adjusted in the service menus of your projector. You can learn more about video calibration in the video calibration forum here (or just ask in this thread), or you can hire a professional -- an ISF Technician -- to come in and do the job for you.
> 
> 
> Another test is to connect a source such as your DVD player directly to the projector, adjust the projector's video levels with the aid of your calibration DVD, and see if you still get banding. This will help you figure out if the fault lies in your projector.
> 
> 
> Modern digital displays are finicky about correct level settings. Posterization is usually a result of poorly set Blacks and Whites levels (Brightness and Contrast control respectively.)
> 
> --Bob




Thanks for the reply. First, the everything is set up properly in terms of settings etc. The infocus 7205, out of the box, is known for not really needing any calibration...its setttings are pretty spot on so I doubt that is it. I will run through the set tweaks but i am preety sure that is not it. The D2 settingsare all at factory.. contrast is at 50 etc. Oh, also the INFOCUS accepts RGB and that is set correctly as well.



In sum, I think the calibration is for the most part there... I just wanted to make sure that I should not be seeing this level of posterizations with todays equipment.... or even with the yesterdays (the infocus is about 2 years old).


If that is the case then there is something either wrong with the infocus (perhaps the color wheel) or the D2 itself.


BTW this is most common on darker sceens. I did change from RGB to extended RGB and that seems to help a bit.


-Bob


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/11900507
> 
> 
> I have a question for the oracles...this is something I have not been able to get my head around and perhaps I am missing something.
> 
> It is regarding all the different audio codecs (DD-THD,DTS-HD and so on).
> 
> I have the Panasonic BD and Toshiba XA-2 hooked up to my D2 thru HDMI.
> 
> When I call up the display on the D2 everything appears to be coming across as "6-ch 48khz" - does this make sense? I keep reading that all of these different audio streams output different. How can I see what is actually being sent to the D2? The onscreen displays on the disc players simply state the stream, not the detail.
> 
> Hopefully this is not an absolutely moronic question and if so I apologize in advance but I am very confused...
> 
> Insight anyone?
> 
> /\\/\\



What you are seeing is correct and rest assured you are getting fantastic audio. Your Panansonic BD is decoding the Dolby TrueHD track as 5.1 multi channel PCM (MPCM) and sending it to your D2 via HDMI. The decode occurs at 48Khz. It is also decoding the core track from DTS-HR and DTS-MA as full bit rate DTS (1.5Mbs) and sending it via HDMI in the same fashion. All is good. You are lucky. I own a Samsung BD-P1200 which does not decode TrueHD but has an unreal video processor.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/11902062
> 
> 
> What you are seeing is correct and rest assured you are getting fantastic audio. Your Panansonic BD is decoding the Dolby TrueHD track as 5.1 multi channel PCM (MPCM) and sending it to your D2 via HDMI. The decode occurs at 48Khz. It is also decoding the core track from DTS-HR and DTS-MA as full bit rate DTS (1.5Mbs) and sending it via HDMI in the same fashion. All is good. You are lucky. I own a Samsung BD-P1200 which does not decode TrueHD but has an unreal video processor.



Thanks very much for the response!

I assumed this was the case but none of the "stories" I read seem to match what I see.

Much appreciated!

/\\/\\


----------



## msb212

A question for the experts! I currently have the Anthem D1. I am considering upgrading my projector to the Optoma HD81-LV, which I know comes with a scaler/processor. I was planning to do the hardware upgrade of the D1 to the D2, but now I am wondering if this is silly, given the processor in the Optoma HD81-LV. Love to hear thoughts and opinions - is one processor significantly better? Ar these two a good/bad fit? Etc. THanks very much.


----------



## tbui57

When playing BD with fast action sequences (POTC for example), the video seems to be jerky (may be dropping frames ?). I am not sure if this is due to the BD player, the AVM50, or the black pearl itself, the HDMI cable ? (or the source materials).


I have the latest AVM50 firmware (1.2) with video output resolution set to 1080p24, latest BDP-S300 firmware (2.60). Is there any setting in the AVM that I can use to smoother the fast action sequences ? TIA. grazie...


BTW, Bob, I tried the 1080p60 for the standard-def DVD, and the AVM50 upscale beautifully...Thanks a million.


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/11907041
> 
> 
> When playing BD with fast action sequences (POTC for example), the video seems to be jerky (may be dropping frames ?). I am not sure if this is due to the BD player, the AVM50, or the black pearl itself, the HDMI cable ? (or the source materials).
> 
> 
> I have the latest AVM50 firmware (1.2) with video output resolution set to 1080p24, latest BDP-S300 firmware (2.60). Is there any setting in the AVM that I can use to smoother the fast action sequences ? TIA. grazie...
> 
> 
> BTW, Bob, I tried the 1080p60 for the standard-def DVD, and the AVM50 upscale beautifully...Thanks a million.





Is your blu-ray player set to output 24p? If so you may need to turn frame lock on to auto. If you are still getting jerky motion after this then go back to 1080p/60.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/11908331
> 
> 
> Is your blu-ray player set to output 24p? If so you may need to turn frame lock on to auto. If you are still getting jerky motion after this then go back to 1080p/60.



In a related "issue", I watched some HD sports this weekend. (side note: I "never" watch sports, so I've never noticed this before) During both a football game and baseball game I noticed significant jerky motion, especially during full field fast pans, such as when a kickoff was returned and on fast moving scenens such as when a pitch was made, I could see the tracking of the ball from the pitcher to catcher.


I switched to the corresponding analog station and didn't see the same problem. I'm not sure if this was a broadcast issue or something with the D2. I did try the TiVo at both native and fixed outputs with the same results.


I'm not sure what the frame lock is set to on that source. Could that be the problem? something else? Is this "normal" with HD output from a broadcast source? I did not try to connect directly to the projector and bypass the D2. I am connecting to an Epson Home Cinema 1080 at 1080p/60.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

I am thinking about getting a new PJ with the D2.


What are you using? What do you think is the best match to the D2?


I have heard good things about JVC and Sony. Anyone want to make some suggestions?


-b


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/11909200
> 
> 
> I am thinking about getting a new PJ with the D2.
> 
> 
> What are you using? What do you think is the best match to the D2?
> 
> 
> I have heard good things about JVC and Sony. Anyone want to make some suggestions?
> 
> 
> -b


*WITHOUT QUESTION the SONY VPL-VW60*


Of course some will disagree with me


----------



## yourlilbro

I'm using the JVC DLA-HD1 with my D2. The picture is out-of-this-world, sure you can get better projectors, but for more moolah. I'm watching dvd on an Oppo 970HD at 480i thru HDMI upscaled to 1080p, as well as a Toshiba HD-A2 for HD-DVDs and a PS3 for my Blu-ray.


The Detail enhancement and noise reduction works well in every source, especially DVD. The Blacks are superb in this projector.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/11909278
> 
> 
> I'm using the JVC DLA-HD1 with my D2.



BTW - Had the question been asked *TWO MONTHS*

ago - I would have recommended the JVC - because

the SONY VW60 did not exist yet.


Technology always gets better and I believe today's

answer is the VW60.


BUT others will always disagree


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/11909200
> 
> 
> I am thinking about getting a new PJ with the D2.
> 
> 
> What are you using? What do you think is the best match to the D2?
> 
> 
> I have heard good things about JVC and Sony. Anyone want to make some suggestions?
> 
> 
> -b



I have the Digital Projection Titan 1080p-250 - its amazing, but a lot more expensive than the JVC or Sony.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/11909200
> 
> 
> I am thinking about getting a new PJ with the D2.
> 
> 
> What are you using? What do you think is the best match to the D2?
> 
> 
> I have heard good things about JVC and Sony. Anyone want to make some suggestions?
> 
> 
> -b




Budget / price range would be helpful.


For me, buying 6 months ago with a budget of $2500, the Epson Home Cinema 1080 was my choice. Today I'd look for something that was 1080p/24 native in/out.


----------



## tbui57

Thanks Randall & Tim. My BD player was set at 1080p24.


I will try the frame lock and see if the fast sequences improve. Tim, if you have time, could you try bypass the D2 and see if the problem disappears ? Thanks a million.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/11910908
> 
> 
> Thanks Randall & Tim. My BD player was set at 1080p24.
> 
> 
> I will try the frame lock and see if the fast sequences improve. Tim, if you have time, could you try bypass the D2 and see if the problem disappears ? Thanks a million.



Yes. I'll check both the frame lock options and try to go directly to the projector and see what happens. I may have an opportunity to do this tonight during the ALCS game.


----------



## hantman

Just FYI, I am using TiVo Series 3 with component output to an AVM-50 with 1.2g, and I output to my Panasonic 1080p TV through HDMI. No blue screens, ever.

___________


How many 720p sources are you feeding it?


________________


The TiVo is set for native mode so it does output in 720P quite frequently (ESPN, ABC etc.).


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hantman* /forum/post/11914252
> 
> 
> Just FYI, I am using TiVo Series 3 with component output to an AVM-50 with 1.2g, and I output to my Panasonic 1080p TV through HDMI. No blue screens, ever.
> 
> ___________
> 
> 
> How many 720p sources are you feeding it?
> 
> 
> ________________
> 
> 
> The TiVo is set for native mode so it does output in 720P quite frequently (ESPN, ABC etc.).



I think the issue was exacerbated after 12q. You seem to be the only one reporting in with component native rate S3 and no blues, so you have the miracle machine, or panny does something different than everone else's front projectors.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/11909278
> 
> 
> I'm using the JVC DLA-HD1 with my D2. The picture is out-of-this-world, sure you can get better projectors, but for more moolah. I'm watching dvd on an Oppo 970HD at 480i thru HDMI upscaled to 1080p, as well as a Toshiba HD-A2 for HD-DVDs and a PS3 for my Blu-ray.
> 
> 
> The Detail enhancement and noise reduction works well in every source, especially DVD. The Blacks are superb in this projector.





I just got a chance to see tthe JVC DLA-HD1 and i have to agree that it is very good. Integrity Home Theater had it set up with an anamorphic lens by panamorph running through a D2 for true widescreen cinema. WOW is that cool. I will never watch my standard 16 x 9 screen again the same. http://www.panamorph.com/ If I can save up enough money I am going to get the new screen and lens.


Do you know the difference between the DLA-HD1 and upcoming HD2? Should I hold out for that. I did not get a chance to see the Black Pearl yet... next week.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11909399
> 
> 
> BTW - Had the question been asked *TWO MONTHS*
> 
> ago - I would have recommended the JVC - because
> 
> the SONY VW60 did not exist yet.
> 
> 
> Technology always gets better and I believe today's
> 
> answer is the VW60.
> 
> 
> BUT others will always disagree



I really liked the JVC.. blacks are amazing. I have not had a chance to see the Black Pearl yet. What is it that you like better? How do you think the black pearl will compare to the newer version of the JVC that is coming out soon?


----------



## yourlilbro

Currently the Black pearl has more stuff packed inside compared to my HD1. I find that my HD1 still edges abit in the blacks and shadow detail, everything else is on par with the Sony. It really is up to you.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/11915987
> 
> 
> I really liked the JVC.. blacks are amazing. I have not had a chance to see the Black Pearl yet. What is it that you like better? How do you think the black pearl will compare to the newer version of the JVC that is coming out soon?



I suggest you don't let JUST your eyes do the deciding.


If you have not been watching big screen PJ for years.

Anything will look better than your small screen.


Read the JVC threads here on AVS to read up on the

lack of color control in the JVC.


The SONY has adjustable color control, 10 bit color,

it scales 1080p/24 up to 1080p/72, and it has

Convergence for a SUPER SHARP picture. NO OTHER

PJs OTHER than SONY have this feature.


All the HD2 has added is the color control that was missing

from the HD1. Everything is the same - it is just a PATCHED

HD1.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/11915987
> 
> 
> compare to the newer version of the JVC that is coming out soon?



NOW the *REAL new JVC* - NOT the HD2 is SOMETHING to Drool Over










I might even buy this JVC.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11916344
> 
> 
> All the HD2 has added is the color control that was missing
> 
> from the HD1. Everything is the same - it is just a PATCHED
> 
> HD1.



I could be wrong, but I thought the HD2 didn't do anything any differently than the HD1 in terms of color adjustment. It does have twice the contrast ratio though.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11916392
> 
> 
> NOW the *REAL new JVC* - NOT the HD2 is SOMETHING to Drool Over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might even buy this JVC.



I agree. Wow. Wonder what the wow price will be.


The Sony -60 wasn't enough for me to jump, where's the Diamond?


It may be HD2 for me if only because my HD2K is rock solid and the WmP calibration is a godsend.


//AVS Anthem Projectors Droolers Subforum//


----------



## tbui57

Frame lock works for me. Thanks Randall/Tim.

The screen flickers quite a bit at the beginning of the movies trying to lock. Once it locks (I guess), the movie goes smoothly. Grazie Mille...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11910977
> 
> 
> Yes. I'll check both the frame lock options and try to go directly to the projector and see what happens. I may have an opportunity to do this tonight during the ALCS game.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/11918506
> 
> 
> Frame lock works for me. Thanks Randall/Tim.
> 
> The screen flickers quite a bit at the beginning of the movies trying to lock. Once it locks (I guess), the movie goes smoothly. Grazie Mille...



That's great to know. I didn't get a chance to try any settings last night. I'm shooting again for tonight.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/11909257
> 
> *WITHOUT QUESTION the SONY VPL-VW60*
> 
> 
> Of course some will disagree with me



I always agree with you except on projectors selection


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbui57* /forum/post/11918506
> 
> 
> Frame lock works for me. Thanks Randall/Tim.
> 
> The screen flickers quite a bit at the beginning of the movies trying to lock. Once it locks (I guess), the movie goes smoothly. Grazie Mille...



I tried the Frame Lock option last night. It neither made a difference with the blue screens with channel changes on EITHER Component or HDMI with Native output from the TiVo S3, nor did it affect the apparent image motion I was seeing.


Now that I think of it, I only tested that with the TiVo. I do have the ALCS baseball game recorded on the LG. I think I'll try that tonight and see how it looks. As I am starting to notice the jerky HD playback from the TiVo S3 more and more. Saw it last night in the recorded episode of Journeyman and saw it live watching Fox sports, just with hand motions of the commentators behind the desk.


I'll check out the LG tonight and see if it makes a difference. Might be the TiVo, might be the D2, not sure...


----------



## jpillar

Replacing my 15 year old Mits 50" rear projection TV, HK Receiver and Bose speakers (yes Bose, they at least sound better than the Speakers on the TV)



I am going with:

Anthem D2 and A5

Paradigm Millenia 300s and 3 Millenia 30s (center, 2 surrounds)

Pioneer 60" 150FD Elite

Oppo DVD player (I'll wait on HD player)

Have Direct TV (once FIOS comes I'll swithch)


john


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/11946000
> 
> 
> I'll wait on HD player



Get a PS3 - well worth $400!


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/11946000
> 
> 
> Replacing my 15 year old Mits 50" rear projection TV, HK Receiver and Bose speakers (yes Bose, they at least sound better than the Speakers on the TV)
> 
> 
> 
> I am going with:
> 
> Anthem D2 and A5
> 
> Paradigm Millenia 300s and 3 Millenia 30s (center, 2 surrounds)
> 
> Pioneer 60" 150FD Elite
> 
> Oppo DVD player (I'll wait on HD player)
> 
> Have Direct TV (once FIOS comes I'll swithch)
> 
> 
> john



Bose to Paradigm - that's quite a step up! As good as the video will be, you'll notice a huge difference in the audio.


To take full advantage of the video would require either front projector or HD player. Nice to know you'll have room to upgrade.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Oppo DVD player (I'll wait on HD player)



Why? You're spending thousands in a major upgrade to your system but hamstringing it by not upgrading the source.

Sorry but that does not make sense.

How much more expensive is a Toshiba HD player than the Oppo?

$25-$50 at most.

A PS3 can be had for $400.

Buying the D2 and not going HDM, why bother.

My not so humble buck-2-80.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/11953596
> 
> 
> Why? You're spending thousands in a major upgrade to your system but hamstringing it by not upgrading the source.
> 
> Sorry but that does not make sense.
> 
> How much more expensive is a Toshiba HD player than the Oppo?
> 
> $25-$50 at most.
> 
> A PS3 can be had for $400.
> 
> Buying the D2 and not going HDM, why bother.
> 
> My not so humble buck-2-80.



Couldn't. Agree. More.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/11954792
> 
> 
> Couldn't. Agree. More.



I agree also, I have the Oppo I use it only for SACD/DVD-Audio nothing else. To play DVD I use the BDP-HD1 in source direct mode and when I it a badly encoded DVD I use the XA2 and turn the REON noise filtering on.


With such an impressive upgrade I would not spent any money on the Oppo. Unless it is for SACD/DVD-Audio playback.


----------



## jpillar

I understand what you guys are saying. The players are afordable. I just don't want to get stuck with HD or BD DVDs when/if one or the other format wins out. I chose beta and want to avoid that situation again. Howver, I do appreciate your thoughts.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/11956313
> 
> 
> I understand what you guys are saying. The players are afordable. I just don't want to get stuck with HD or BD DVDs when/if one or the other format wins out. I chose beta and want to avoid that situation again. Howver, I do appreciate your thoughts.



There is plenty of extra room in Hanks basement


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/11956357
> 
> 
> There is plenty of extra room in Hanks basement



It is filling up fast will OBSOLETE theater gear.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/11956313
> 
> 
> I understand what you guys are saying. The players are afordable. I just don't want to get stuck with HD or BD DVDs when/if one or the other format wins out. I chose beta and want to avoid that situation again. Howver, I do appreciate your thoughts.




Our point is wath you need is good DVD transport to feed your D2. A bit $ more than the Oppo you could get a HD DVD player or BD player that will suit that purpose and still allow you to play HD material. If you are afraid of buying HD material, at this point you could rent it.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/11957073
> 
> 
> Our point is wath you need is good DVD transport to feed your D2. A bit $ more than the Oppo you could get a HD DVD player or BD player that will suit that purpose and still allow you to play HD material. If you are afraid of buying HD material, at this point you could rent it.



This review summary from CNET summarize with I think of buying an Oppo at this point.


C-Net

The good: Excellent image quality; upscaling to 1080p over HDMI; attractive, understated black design; multichannel SACD and DVD-Audio over HDMI; DivX/Xvid support; aspect-ratio control; can be made region-free with a simple hack.


The bad: Expensive compared to other DVD players; similarly priced HD DVD players deliver vastly superior image quality on HD DVDs.


The bottom line: If you're not ready to get a high-def player, the Oppo DV-980H DVD player delivers excellent performance and an unparalleled feature set for the price.


----------



## rudolpht

4 restarts, 2 settings changes, and about 30 minutes waster. The nerve of me trying to watch the S3 Tivo then an HD DVD and then S3. Getting increasingly disappointed. I thought 1.21 was going to get me back on track.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/11956313
> 
> 
> I understand what you guys are saying. The players are afordable. I just don't want to get stuck with HD or BD DVDs when/if one or the other format wins out. I chose beta and want to avoid that situation again. Howver, I do appreciate your thoughts.



"Get stuck"? Just don't buy a ton of software on either format. Rent. Netflix is a great tool!


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/11960804
> 
> 
> "Get stuck"? Just don't buy a ton of software on either format. Rent. Netflix is a great tool!



Agreed! I had Blu-Ray only for close to a year and then recently got HD DVD in order to maximize the possibility of getting a high-def DVD when I rent from Netflix. Relatively speaking, the hardware to get both types of formats is peanuts. It's the software that costs much more $$$ in the long run. However, if you just use Netflix, then no need to purchase movies you'll only watch once. Then, if one format loses out, you've only invested a small amount.


Sorry to get off track here...


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/11956313
> 
> 
> I understand what you guys are saying. The players are afordable. I just don't want to get stuck with HD or BD DVDs when/if one or the other format wins out. I chose beta and want to avoid that situation again. Howver, I do appreciate your thoughts.




I just can't imagine using the D2 without HD-dvd and Blu-ray. Its almost 16 months when I plunge into HD and loved every minute of it. I don't even buy DVD's anymore(except for concerts). Its not just the PQ but also the Audio quality, there's no way you can get surround PCM 5.1 from DVD's. Once you get hooked, there's no turning back.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> I don't even buy DVD's anymore



What's a DVD?









jpillar, one last shot here.

1. If I got the model right, I believe your Pio plasma is a killer display. Don't disrespect it

2. As I left out and others have said, rent. I do. That's why God invented Netflix.

3. Go to Best Buy or somewhere with a 30 day return policy and buy a player.

4. You won't return the player because after watching HD you _will_ become part of the collective. Guaranteed.

5. Starting Nov 2nd, a PS3 can be had for *$299* with 5 free discs from SonyStyle. I may have to capitulate and go Blu even though my late mother would be ashamed of me.

Now back to your regularly scheduled thread...


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/11967352
> 
> 
> 5. Starting Nov 2nd, a PS3 can be had for *$299* with 6 free discs from SonyStyle. I may have to capitulate and go Blu even though my late mother would be ashamed of me.


----------



## TREVLAN

well many people have helped me here so now it's my turn.\\

The famous blue screen has plegued[sp?] most of us here well my fellow Anthem lovers. [yes I know kinda messed up but whatever]


This is what I did and I "NEVER" get the blue screen. I still get a small lag going from 720p cable to 1080i but blue sceeen be gone.

Go to the AVM50 setup

goto "#12 display"

then "D" main OS color

change this to "GREY"


Let me know if this works for you.

To be honest now that I have done this I never really notice how long the 1080i channels take to "load" just because the blue portion is gone.


give it a try if you wish.


Trev


----------



## cecaa850

I watched my first HDDVD last night that had any appreciable LFE. What a letdown. Has anyone experienced lack of LFE with an XA2 hooked up via HDMI? I went through the Anthems and XA2's settings but didn't see anything amiss.


----------



## obie_fl

I find HD DVD LFE to be all over the map. Which title was it?

What firmware are you running on the D2? There used to be a bug with the HDMI LFE being low.

Make sure you don't have DRC or anything like that turned on in the XA2.

There is a big discussion going on over in the HD DVD Software forum about the Transformers LFE.


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/11977617
> 
> 
> I find HD DVD LFE to be all over the map. Which title was it?
> 
> What firmware are you running on the D2? There used to be a bug with the HDMI LFE being low.
> 
> Make sure you don't have DRC or anything like that turned on in the XA2.
> 
> There is a big discussion going on over in the HD DVD Software forum about the Transformers LFE.



Yes, it was transformers. My D2 is not that old so I believe it is the 1.12 firmware. I couldn't find any DRC in the XA2 unless I just missed it. I thought that might be the case also.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/11977807
> 
> 
> Yes, it was transformers. My D2 is not that old so I believe it is the 1.12 firmware. I couldn't find any DRC in the XA2 unless I just missed it. I thought that might be the case also.



No I haven't had that problem with the XA2.


Tell us your settings for both the D2 and XA2.


How did you calibrate your speakers with the D2?


If so did you calibrate it using the room resonance worksheet here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=8953 


The more info the better.


Good luck.


Jim


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/11977617
> 
> 
> There is a big discussion going on over in the HD DVD Software forum about the Transformers LFE.



Thanks for the heads up, you may be onto something there. It appears that a bunch of discs may be defective in the LFE track.


As far as calibration goes, I had Jeff with accucal set all the levels, I believe he used RTA.


----------



## obie_fl

I have to run most of my HD DVDs LFE hot but something is definitely going on with the Transformers LFE. I get a lot of LFE out of that title, my Buttkicker goes pretty much nonstop. For whatever reason though the LFE doesn't "feel" very dynamic or go as low as some tracks. I don't get any of those moments where the room pressurizes and I feel it in my chest. I'm not convinced there isn't something screwy with DD+ and LFE going on. I wish I had more time to investigate but I've been extremely busy with my day job.


I'm beginning to wish Anthem would offer a HDMI 1.3 solution with DD+, DTrueHD and DTS-HD MA, I'm not sure Toshiba isn't doing something wrong during the decoding.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I wonder if they screwed up the phasing between the LFE channel and the mains on that particular disc? Depending on where you have your crossover set, your sub could be going full blast but the bass getting through to the mains might be cancelling out key portions of it around 50Hz or so. You'd feel the lowest frequency "thuds" but the body of the bass would still sound anemic.


cecca850,

Make sure you have speaker management turned off in the player so that the bass isn't being processed twice -- once in the player and once in your Anthem.


Proper bass setup is probably the toughest thing to get right for a home user. You could easily have some incredibly deep room cancellation "nulls" remaining in your setup at specific frequencies that you wouldn't notice for "normal" LFE tracks but which might knock the feet out from under really aggressive LFE tracks. In addition, you need to pay careful attention as to how the polarity and phase settings are smoothing the transition from the sub to your mains.


Polarity affects the entire frequency range of the sub, whereas phase is more closely associated with the region above and below the crossover. It takes a while to investigate which combo of settings works best with your room, your subwoofer placement, and your choice of crossover. Again, an aggressive track will also have more bass near the crossover and so if you've got things set wrong you'd have the same effect I was thinking the disc itself might be producing -- i.e., bass from the mains cancelling bass from the sub.


--------------------------------------


The HDMI PCM -10dB LFE bug people mentioned in the Anthems last existed in the V1.10 software. It was fixed in the original V1.11 software.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/11978479
> 
> 
> I'm beginning to wish Anthem would offer a HDMI 1.3 solution with DD+, DTrueHD and DTS-HD MA, I'm not sure Toshiba isn't doing something wrong during the decoding.



Is the problem only showing up on the XA2 player? I'd be more willing to believe the audio mix is screwed up on the disc.

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11978941
> 
> 
> Is the problem only showing up on the XA2 player? I'd be more willing to believe the audio mix is screwed up on the disc.
> 
> --Bob



The discussion on the HDDVD forum has users with various players having issues, not just the XA2.


Bob, wouldn't phase and crossover issues be exposed when using RTA?


----------



## cecaa850

And while I have your attention, I noticed another oddity when watching Transformers. First, my setup. I have 4 amps driving my 7 speakers. I use 1 channel of one amp for my center channel and the remaining speakers split the other 3 amps. The fronts are one 1 amp, surrounds on another, rears on another and the center on the last. While I was watching the movie, I got consistantly more of a signal sent to my rears than my side surrounds. I would have expected just the opposite. Now I wonder if it is a set up issue or the disc? The only thing I found in the Anthem that would affect this was in the setup screen under 6.1 surround/rear ADC??? I don't remember the exact screen name. Anyways I have them set to "off" or "no". Can you think of anything else that would swap the rear and side info?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/11979347
> 
> 
> And while I have your attention, I noticed another oddity when watching Transformers. First, my setup. I have 4 amps driving my 7 speakers. I use 1 channel of one amp for my center channel and the remaining speakers split the other 3 amps. The fronts are one 1 amp, surrounds on another, rears on another and the center on the last. While I was watching the movie, I got consistantly more of a signal sent to my rears than my side surrounds. I would have expected just the opposite. Now I wonder if it is a set up issue or the disc? The only thing I found in the Anthem that would affect this was in the setup screen under 6.1 surround/rear ADC??? I don't remember the exact screen name. Anyways I have them set to "off" or "no". Can you think of anything else that would swap the rear and side info?



The setting you are referring to is certainly one thing that could cause side and rear surround channels to swap. It is:


Setup / ADC Audio Output / 6ch REVERSE SUB-REAR and it should be set to "NO" for normal operation.


See Section 3.7 of the manual.


In that same menu Copy Sur to Rear should also be set to "NO". Turning this on wouldn't swap things, but would duplicate the side surround info into the rears and, depending on how you have things balanced, that might sound like too much Rear channel audio.


Also, for your input definition, make sure you haven't put something strange into Setup / Source Setup / HDMI 6-channel Map. That item should only be used for setting things up for DVD-Audio.


And of course, you need to verify that your speakers are wired correctly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/11979266
> 
> 
> The discussion on the HDDVD forum has users with various players having issues, not just the XA2.
> 
> 
> Bob, wouldn't phase and crossover issues be exposed when using RTA?



Yes, any bass analysis system would let you see phase and polarity problems in your setup. Of course that won't tell you if there's a problem in the audio track on some particular disc itself.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

No Transformers LFE issues here with an Tosh A2 & D2.

While certainly not the most prominent or overblown LFE, there are several scenes that cause my clothes to flap.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11978941
> 
> 
> Is the problem only showing up on the XA2 player? I'd be more willing to believe the audio mix is screwed up on the disc.
> 
> --Bob



It appears all the players have been mentioned I'm on a A1 myself.


The problem is all the reviews gave the disk 5 stars for audio. I've asked in the insiders thread if it is possible the reviewers got a different disk then the production disks.


----------



## mr_fitz

Does anyone use the D2 to convert and output 1080p/24 for regular dvd's or should it only be used for BD and HD-DVD? I tried this conversion when hooked up to a Panny 1000 and every now and again the picture would speed up and I would have to skip back or pause for it to be normal again.


Thanks


John


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/11973631
> 
> 
> well many people have helped me here so now it's my turn.\\
> 
> The famous blue screen has plegued[sp?] most of us here well my fellow Anthem lovers. [yes I know kinda messed up but whatever]
> 
> 
> This is what I did and I "NEVER" get the blue screen. I still get a small lag going from 720p cable to 1080i but blue sceeen be gone.
> 
> Go to the AVM50 setup
> 
> goto "#12 display"
> 
> then "D" main OS color
> 
> change this to "GREY"
> 
> 
> Let me know if this works for you.
> 
> To be honest now that I have done this I never really notice how long the 1080i channels take to "load" just because the blue portion is gone.
> 
> 
> give it a try if you wish.
> 
> 
> Trev



Tried it. No perceived difference in delay except it's a long blue followed by a long black delay in my case.


That said I'm back to 1080i hybrid mode.


Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/11983299
> 
> 
> Does anyone use the D2 to convert and output 1080p/24 for regular dvd's or should it only be used for BD and HD-DVD? I tried this conversion when hooked up to a Panny 1000 and every now and again the picture would speed up and I would have to skip back or pause for it to be normal again.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



480i/60 and 1080i/60 conversion to 1080p/24 output for film based content is not working yet. Anthem says they are working on it. The V1.12 (AKA V1.2) software seemed to be getting pretty close for 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion but the 480i input side is still not close.


For regular DVDs and for SDTV/HDTV viewing, you should not use 1080p/24 output from the Anthem at this time, even if you are watching film based content.


For HD-DVD and Blu-Ray, if the player will put out 1080p/24 when playing a high definition disc, then you can send that to the Anthem and have the Anthem send 1080p/24 to your TV. This is only useful if your TV will accept 1080p/24 as input *AND* will alter it's display refresh rate to a multiple of 24 -- usually either 48 or 72 frames per second. If the TV accepts 1080p/24 but actually displays it as 1080p/60 you should probably stick with the simpler path: 1080i/60 from the player, producing 1080p/60 from the Anthem, displayed unchanged by the TV at 1080p/60.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11985173
> 
> 
> 480i/60 and 1080i/60 conversion to 1080p/24 output for film based content is not working yet. Anthem says they are working on it. The V1.12 (AKA V1.2) software seemed to be getting pretty close for 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion but the 480i input side is still not close.
> 
> 
> For regular DVDs and for SDTV/HDTV viewing, you should not use 1080p/24 output from the Anthem at this time, even if you are watching film based content.
> 
> 
> For HD-DVD and Blu-Ray, if the player will put out 1080p/24 when playing a high definition disc, then you can send that to the Anthem and have the Anthem send 1080p/24 to your TV. This is only useful if your TV will accept 1080p/24 as input *AND* will alter it's display refresh rate to a multiple of 24 -- usually either 48 or 72 frames per second. If the TV accepts 1080p/24 but actually displays it as 1080p/60 you should probably stick with the simpler path: 1080i/60 from the player, producing 1080p/60 from the Anthem, displayed unchanged by the TV at 1080p/60.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob


----------



## Milt99

Early on in the HDM life cycle we were told that decoding in the player was "the" way to go.

Now, players that output HD audio bitstreams and receivers that accept and decode it are becoming more prevalent.

Several credible members are reporting that receiver decoded HD AQ is noticeably superior to player decoded HD AQ.

Has the D2 now reached it's first technical dead end by lacking this feature or the ability to upgrade to bitstream decoding?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/11993586
> 
> 
> Early on in the HDM life cycle we were told that decoding in the player was "the" way to go.
> 
> Now, players that output HD audio bitstreams and receivers that accept and decode it are becoming more prevalent.
> 
> Several credible members are reporting that receiver decoded HD AQ is noticeably superior to player decoded HD AQ.
> 
> Has the D2 now reached it's first technical dead end by lacking this feature or the ability to upgrade to bitstream decoding?



I would LOVE to hear (no pun intended) the theory as to why a receiver decoding the HD Audio would be better than the player doing it.


Who are these "credible members" that you refer to?


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/11993742
> 
> 
> I would LOVE to hear (no pun intended) the theory as to why a receiver decoding the HD Audio would be better than the player doing it.



Better decoder maybe?


It reminds me a little of the whole 1080p argument. Most people who argued that 1080p resolution wouldn't make a difference had 720p sets. Now, 1080p sets have become standard. Whether they make a difference for some can still be debated if you consider screen size/viewing distance. Assuming HD discs make it, it's inevitable that bitstream output and outboard decoding will eventually become standard.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/11993742
> 
> 
> I would LOVE to hear (no pun intended) the theory as to why a receiver decoding the HD Audio would be better than the player doing it.
> 
> 
> Who are these "credible members" that you refer to?



Since some players (Pio 95) are capable of passing but not decoding a particular format, it is by definition useful/valuable to have the ability to pass to a preamp/receiver. Whether the same CODEC is different on board vs off board may be subjective (and probably should be in a different thread as it seems every receiver thread is plagued by this divisive contention (true or not).


----------



## Milt99

Sorry, I wasn't trying to be devisive or to dis the D2, just posing a question for the learned members of the thread.

I own one and love it but eventually almost everything hits a technological dead-end especially pre-pros\

eceivers.

As far as credible members, I consider Robert George in that category.

Now whether a Denon receiver doing the decoding is better than player decoding combined with the D2's upsampling is a good question.

It does seem to be the trend especially regarding DTS-HD\\MA decoding.

Personally I sometimes wish that DTS was not around to muddy the waters or that DTS decoding was mandatory for all players.

If this post is too OT I will delete it at anyone's request, no problem.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/11995526
> 
> 
> Sorry, I wasn't trying to be devisive or to dis the D2, just posing a question for the learned members of the thread.
> 
> I own one and love it but eventually almost everything hits a technological dead-end especially pre-pros\
> 
> eceivers.
> 
> As far as credible members, I consider Robert George in that category.
> 
> Now whether a Denon receiver doing the decoding is better than player decoding combined with the D2's upsampling is a good question.
> 
> It does seem to be the trend especially regarding DTS-HD\\MA decoding.
> 
> Personally I sometimes wish that DTS was not around to muddy the waters or that DTS decoding was mandatory for all players.
> 
> If this post is too OT I will delete it at anyone's request, no problem.



This is a legitimate question, but could get OT easily.


I'm very skeptical that a properly implemented decoder in a player can be distinguished by any method from the same decoder properly implemented in a receiver. If we were talking analog audio - well, there's plenty of confounding variables that keep the snake oil peddlers in business. But as I have a long working history with digital audio, it just doesn't make sense.


If someone can explain the conditions where a difference can occur, then I might be alarmed. Until then, I'm confident in the direction that Anthem has chosen.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/11995753
> 
> 
> This is a legitimate question, but could get OT easily.
> 
> *I'm very skeptical that a properly implemented decoder in a player can be distinguished by any method from the same decoder properly implemented in a receiver. If we were talking analog audio - well, there's plenty of confounding variables that keep the snake oil peddlers in business. But as I have a long working history with digital audio, it just doesn't make sense.*
> 
> 
> If someone can explain the conditions where a difference can occur, then I might be alarmed. Until then, I'm confident in the direction that Anthem has chosen.



NAILED IT!


Thanks.


----------



## MSmith83




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/11995526
> 
> 
> Now whether a Denon receiver doing the decoding is better than player decoding combined with the D2's upsampling is a good question.



You also have to factor in that the Denon does its own up-sampling only to PCM signals via AL24+, or Advanced AL24 in the case of the Denon 4308. However, I highly doubt AL24 is making the sound any worse. In my experience, its effect only lowers the noise floor for whatever DAC-related noise there is.


I've done extensive testing with legacy CODECs using a Denon 4306 as a pre/pro, and an HD-A2 and PS3 as players via HDMI. I haven't noticed one bit of difference between in-player and in-receiver decoding after volume matching. With DTS tracks on the PS3, I didn't even have to adjust the volume control to get the same output. The CODECs ranged anywhere from 448 kbps DD to 1.5 Mbps DTS.


For this reason, I have a hard time believing that in-player and in-receiver decoding sound any different from each other with respect to advanced CODECs in a properly configured setup. I would think that this is especially the case when using a D2. Technically speaking, how could one decoder's output sound different from another decoder's output?


With respect to the new formats, I would link any degradation in sound quality via in-player decoding to an improper player configuration, or a player doing something screwy in its mixing stage. This is assuming that the audio processor handles both un-decoded bitstreams and PCM signals correctly.


Oh, and I forgot to mention that Robert George didn't say that in-player decoding was much worse, just that he noticed a little less surround channel separation. I don't want his findings to be taken out of context, as he made it clear that in-receiver decoding isn't in and of itself worth doing an upgrade.


Anyway, I apologize for hijacking this fine thread. I would certainly have a D2 if I could afford it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If there is a difference then one of the manufacturers has screwed up. As we go through the next 6 months there will probably be examples of both player manufacturers and AVR manufacturers screwing up. Tests that demonstrate such a screwup have nothing whatsoever to do with demonstrating any fundamental difference in the two approaches.


For those worried about the lack of DTS-HD MA decoding in players, take heart. In a few days Blu-Ray player profile 1.1 will be required for all newly launched players. From here on out the news for folks in the HDMI PCM camp should get quite a bit better.

--Bob


----------



## PooperScooper

I talked to Nick last night and the problem they found with my D2 that had the "crackling" with MCH PCM can be fixed via software unlike a couple of other D2s that had faulty/broken parts (which also most likely explains why the D2 I have in my rack now is worse than the one I send back). The issue had something to do with different batches/lots of ribbon cables used and how clock signals were affected with some of the cables. Supposedly my D2 was fixed and is on the way back to me. I'm going to find out more today because when I talked to him last night the engineers were gone for the day.


larry


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11996954
> 
> 
> If there is a difference then one of the manufacturers has screwed up. As we go through the next 6 months there will probably be examples of both player manufacturers and AVR manufacturers screwing up. Tests that demonstrate such a screwup have nothing whatsoever to do with demonstrating any fundamental difference in the two approaches.



Well said, as usual, Bob.


----------



## Tim Winders

Is there an easy way for the D2 to accept RGB (VGA output from a computer) input? We have a want to connect a PC to the projector and sound system in our HT. While the projector has a VGA input, I only have a single HDMI cable running to the projector and it's more trouble than it's worth to run a VGA cable.


----------



## barhoram

^^^ Get a video card with DVI out and and HDMI to DVI adapter. That's how our pc is hooked up to the projector through the Anthem. In my experience VGA can be hit or miss as far as getting a stable picture to a projector.


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/11999734
> 
> 
> ^^^ Get a video card with DVI out and and HDMI to DVI adapter. That's how our pc is hooked up to the projector through the Anthem. In my experience VGA can be hit or miss as far as getting a stable picture to a projector.



DVI cards can be hit or miss as well. I have had very little success finding a card that works flawlessly.


----------



## Milt99

Thanks for the replies to my sincere question.

I am unaware of any controversy over this.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/11999734
> 
> 
> ^^^ Get a video card with DVI out and and HDMI to DVI adapter. That's how our pc is hooked up to the projector through the Anthem. In my experience VGA can be hit or miss as far as getting a stable picture to a projector.



Thanks. Unfortuantely, this is a laptop and a DVI video adapter is not an easy option. It does have an ExpressCard slot, but, DVI solutions for that are hit and miss and not practical.


I was hoping for a way to be able to input RGB directly into the D2, but that looks to be out. So, we'll have to stick to using the VGA input on the plasma screen and forget about using the HT.


Thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12002619
> 
> 
> I was hoping for a way to be able to input RGB directly into the D2, but that looks to be out.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



WHY in the WORLD would you say that?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/12000267
> 
> 
> DVI cards can be hit or miss as well. I have had very little success finding a card that works flawlessly.



The solution is a switcher for DVI sources AFTER the Anthem. It's brute force but it works... flawlessly.


----------



## seismo

Fresh news from Anthem.....


I spoke to Nick yesterday and he sent me the latest software version 1.21b for my D2 upgrade (from version 1.11). BTW you can expect to see version 1.21c within a week or 2. Version 1.21c will fix the cracking/popping problem that some unit produce.


Nick also mentionned that the EQ software is finish and that the system is getting into beta testing phase. If all goes well, he expects the upgrade will be available before Xmas.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12002826
> 
> 
> WHY in the WORLD would you say that?



Because no one has offered a way to do it? Do you have a solution to take VGA output from the laptop and connect that to the D2?


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/11999213
> 
> 
> Is there an easy way for the D2 to accept RGB (VGA output from a computer) input? We have a want to connect a PC to the projector and sound system in our HT. While the projector has a VGA input, I only have a single HDMI cable running to the projector and it's more trouble than it's worth to run a VGA cable.



I'd have to agree with the previous advice of getting a PC Card or ExpressCard with DVI output for your laptop, and running a DVI/HDMI cable to the Anthem. That way you avoid the needless digital-to-analog-to-digital conversion of VGA, and can get a pixel-perfect 1920 x 1080 image on your projector.


(Since all Mac laptops have shipped with DVI outputs for at least the last 4 years, I've been using a simple DVI-to-HDMI cable into my D2, and it works flawlessly. I just plug it in, and it works.)


- Dave


----------



## Haroon Malik

Does anybody have any information of what Anthem's plans are for a new processor with:


1. Dolby TrueHD & DTS-HD MA


2. New Gennum chip for video processing


3. HDMI 1.3b



I don't know if there is such a processor [e.g. D3] in the works but any information would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12006786
> 
> 
> Because no one has offered a way to do it? Do you have a solution to take VGA output from the laptop and connect that to the D2?



Of Course I have a solution.


But I can't guarantee the Quality or EVEN that it will work.


It is called a *Transcoder*.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/12007537
> 
> 
> I'd have to agree with the previous advice of getting a PC Card or ExpressCard with DVI output for your laptop, and running a DVI/HDMI cable to the Anthem. That way you avoid the needless digital-to-analog-to-digital conversion of VGA, and can get a pixel-perfect 1920 x 1080 image on your projector.
> 
> 
> (Since all Mac laptops have shipped with DVI outputs for at least the last 4 years, I've been using a simple DVI-to-HDMI cable into my D2, and it works flawlessly. I just plug it in, and it works.)
> 
> 
> - Dave



Thanks, Dave. I don't need pixel perfect match. The application is big screen / big sound gaming... my son's idea. Perfect quality isn't a big deal. It would be cheaper for me to run a VGA cable to the projector than it would be to buy a DVI ExpressCard for the laptop. Perhaps in the future with his next laptop purchase...


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12008201
> 
> 
> Of Course I have a solution.
> 
> 
> But I can't guarantee the Quality or EVEN that it will work.
> 
> 
> It is called a *Transcoder*.



Thanks, but that's not cheap. So, I go back to my original statement of giving up on the idea of connecting VGA into the D2.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12008278
> 
> 
> Thanks, but that's not cheap. So, I go back to my original statement of giving up on the idea of connecting VGA into the D2.



Did you ever hear the term that round pegs

don't FIT into SQUARE HOLES?


Transcoders are cheap.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12008342
> 
> 
> Did you ever hear the term that round pegs
> 
> don't FIT into SQUARE HOLES?
> 
> 
> Transcoders are cheap.



LOL


Just trying to help out my kid who wants to play his games in the home theater. A VGA to DVI transcoder is about $150. Cheap compared to the D2, but not something my 13yo is going to shell out for.


The plasma has a VGA input, so he can play on that for a bigger screen experience. If I get motivated, I'll run a VGA cable to the projector.


----------



## barhoram

While my laptop only has VGA out, it's docking station has a DVI out. Perhaps a solution.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12010396
> 
> 
> While my laptop only has VGA out, it's docking station has a DVI out. Perhaps a solution.



Thanks. I don't think this Dell has a docking station option, but I'll look into it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Haroon Malik* /forum/post/12007923
> 
> 
> Does anybody have any information of what Anthem's plans are for a new processor with:
> 
> 
> 1. Dolby TrueHD & DTS-HD MA
> 
> 
> 2. New Gennum chip for video processing
> 
> 
> 3. HDMI 1.3b
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if there is such a processor [e.g. D3] in the works but any information would be appreciated. Thanks.



The best leak we have is that Anthem is in no hurry to do any of those, and that none of those is in progress. I wouldn't expect it before next Fall at the earliest, and it wouldn't surprise me if it didn't happen at all next year.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/12006724
> 
> 
> Fresh news from Anthem.....
> 
> 
> I spoke to Nick yesterday and he sent me the latest software version 1.21b for my D2 upgrade (from version 1.11). BTW you can expect to see version 1.21c within a week or 2. Version 1.21c will fix the cracking/popping problem that some unit produce.
> 
> 
> Nick also mentionned that the EQ software is finish and that the system is getting into beta testing phase. If all goes well, he expects the upgrade will be available before Xmas.



Thanks for the update! Do you have any info on what other fixes might be coming in V1.21c, and also whether there will be formal release (as in downloadable from their web site) BEFORE they ship the version with the EQ software enabled?

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11996954
> 
> 
> If there is a difference then one of the manufacturers has screwed up. As we go through the next 6 months there will probably be examples of both player manufacturers and AVR manufacturers screwing up. Tests that demonstrate such a screwup have nothing whatsoever to do with demonstrating any fundamental difference in the two approaches.
> 
> 
> For those worried about the lack of DTS-HD MA decoding in players, take heart. In a few days Blu-Ray player profile 1.1 will be required for all newly launched players. From here on out the news for folks in the HDMI PCM camp should get quite a bit better.
> 
> --Bob



Exactly!


There will be as much difference between two pre/pro implementation that their will be difference between being done in the player vs Pre/pro.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12002619
> 
> 
> Thanks. Unfortuantely, this is a laptop and a DVI video adapter is not an easy option. It does have an ExpressCard slot, but, DVI solutions for that are hit and miss and not practical.
> 
> 
> I was hoping for a way to be able to input RGB directly into the D2, but that looks to be out. So, we'll have to stick to using the VGA input on the plasma screen and forget about using the HT.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Tim,


I am using a laptop that only provides a VGA connection. To resolve this I bought a compatible docking station (around 80$) that was providing a DVI output. Night and day differences in terms of image quality.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12010690
> 
> 
> Thanks. I don't think this Dell has a docking station option, but I'll look into it.



I am using a Dell docking station, There are lots of them on ebay.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/12013365
> 
> 
> I am using a Dell docking station, There are lots of them on ebay.



Thanks. Will take a look. Might be a "cheap" solution out there after all...


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12012938
> 
> 
> Thanks for the update! Do you have any info on what other fixes might be coming in V1.21c, and also whether there will be formal release (as in downloadable from their web site) BEFORE they ship the version with the EQ software enabled?
> 
> --Bob



He did not mention additional fixes related to 1.21c other then the crackling problem fix. When asked about the final software release he simply said that there is never a final version and he did not link in time the 1.21c release with the EQ software availability. However, he did say that those 2 tasks were being push simultaneously simply because the same team was involved.


Fortunately, I did not installed v1.21b yet because I found out in another forum that someone ran into some problems trying to install 1.21b. The error message was "Video Processor uC Flash Failed error 0x4".


I questionned Nick about this and he replied that the problem was a windows related error and suggested to stick with v1.20 for the moment.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11985173
> 
> 
> 480i/60 and 1080i/60 conversion to 1080p/24 output for film based content is not working yet. Anthem says they are working on it. The V1.12 (AKA V1.2) software seemed to be getting pretty close for 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion but the 480i input side is still not close.
> 
> 
> For regular DVDs and for SDTV/HDTV viewing, you should not use 1080p/24 output from the Anthem at this time, even if you are watching film based content.
> 
> 
> For HD-DVD and Blu-Ray, if the player will put out 1080p/24 when playing a high definition disc, then you can send that to the Anthem and have the Anthem send 1080p/24 to your TV. This is only useful if your TV will accept 1080p/24 as input *AND* will alter it's display refresh rate to a multiple of 24 -- usually either 48 or 72 frames per second. If the TV accepts 1080p/24 but actually displays it as 1080p/60 you should probably stick with the simpler path: 1080i/60 from the player, producing 1080p/60 from the Anthem, displayed unchanged by the TV at 1080p/60.
> 
> --Bob




Bob, how can you tell what resolution your TV displays natively per your statement above? For example, I am looking to get a new PJ. The sony VPL-VW60 in its specs says it's native resolution is 1080P but does not specify that it will alter it's display refresh rate to a multiple of 24 -- usually either 48 or 72 frames per second. IT just states 1080P. The specs to say that it will accept input signal of 1080P/24 and 1080P60.


Thanks for your help on this.


----------



## PaulT_BC

IANBB (I am not Bob but......







)


The native res for that unit is 1920 x 1080
http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/...2796&langId=-1


----------



## Krops

Hi all, just wanted to share 1.21b fixed a very annoying problem I was having with 1.12s/1.20. Under 1.20, I would not get any video output from the D2 to my plasma (HDMI) in about 1 out of every 2 startups. Sometimes I would have to power-cycle the D2 3 times just to get any video output. Quit annoying for example when I'm just looking to watch TV at the end of the day....


Since installing 1.21b, I have gotten video output on every startup.


----------



## Milt99

A D2 with EQ == Merry Christmas Baby!


----------



## Wings19

Hi!

I am getting ready to purchase a new D2 and I wanted to know if anyone out there who owns one has any feedback before I finalize the decision. It will be running with an AudioControl amp and a the new JVC HD2 projector. Any input is appreciated.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/12006724
> 
> 
> 
> Nick also mentionned that the EQ software is finish and that the system is getting into beta testing phase. If all goes well, he expects the upgrade will be available before Xmas.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/12014297
> 
> 
> Bob, how can you tell what resolution your TV displays natively per your statement above? For example, I am looking to get a new PJ. The sony VPL-VW60 in its specs says it's native resolution is 1080P but does not specify that it will alter it's display refresh rate to a multiple of 24 -- usually either 48 or 72 frames per second. IT just states 1080P. The specs to say that it will accept input signal of 1080P/24 and 1080P60.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help on this.



The only way to be SURE is to wait for the product to ship and then ask people who are using it (and who seem to know what they are talking about) whether they are getting judder free video when playing 1080p/24 into it from film based content.


But you can usually get pretty close to sure by downloading the owners manual from the manufacturer's web site and looking through it for the technical details. If the projector switches refresh rates it will usually be mentioned somewhere in there.


As it turns out, the Sony you are interested in is attracting a lot of attention from other posters in this thread. So there will probably be a definitive answer in this thread as soon as it can be tried.


I think the odds are good this projector will do the right thing with 1080p/24 input, since that's a key market for it.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wings19* /forum/post/12017123
> 
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I am getting ready to purchase a new D2 and I wanted to know if anyone out there who owns one has any feedback before I finalize the decision. It will be running with an AudioControl amp and a the new JVC HD2 projector. Any input is appreciated.



My only regret is that I didn't buy it a year ago!


Seriously, I've been very happy with it for the last... month? or so that I've had it. Absolutely spectacular.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12017653
> 
> 
> My only regret is that I didn't buy it a year ago!
> 
> 
> Seriously, I've been very happy with it for the last... month? or so that I've had it. Absolutely spectacular.




I had the avm50 for more than a year and sold it just a couple of weeks ago. Ordered the D2 and it is still somewhere in the Pacific ocean. Lucky enought to get an avm30 as a loaner. Miss the PCM over HDMI though.


Alvin

Philippines


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/12016073
> 
> 
> Hi all, just wanted to share 1.21b fixed a very annoying problem I was having with 1.12s/1.20. Under 1.20, I would not get any video output from the D2 to my plasma (HDMI) in about 1 out of every 2 startups. Sometimes I would have to power-cycle the D2 3 times just to get any video output. Quit annoying for example when I'm just looking to watch TV at the end of the day....
> 
> 
> Since installing 1.21b, I have gotten video output on every startup.



I haven't been so luck, but I get video about 3 out of 4 times now. So much for stability and dependability.


----------



## Wings19

Great!

Exactly what I had hoped to hear! The new Theater should be completed by Dec 15 and now the D2 will be a big part of it...

Thanks!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wings19* /forum/post/12018688
> 
> 
> Great!
> 
> Exactly what I had hoped to hear! The new Theater should be completed by Dec 15 and now the D2 will be a big part of it...
> 
> Thanks!



That is why WE HAND OUT Anthem Mascots









Because we are ALL HAPPY


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/12016073
> 
> 
> Hi all, just wanted to share 1.21b fixed a very annoying problem I was having with 1.12s/1.20. Under 1.20, I would not get any video output from the D2 to my plasma (HDMI) in about 1 out of every 2 startups. Sometimes I would have to power-cycle the D2 3 times just to get any video output. Quit annoying for example when I'm just looking to watch TV at the end of the day....
> 
> 
> Since installing 1.21b, I have gotten video output on every startup.



Another D2 user (different forum) has reported problems installing 1.21b and Nick seems to point the problem to Windows Operation System. Could you please tell us which Windows O S you used to load 1.21b.


Thanks!


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/12019113
> 
> 
> Another D2 user (different forum) have reported problems installing 1.21b and Nick seems to point the problem to Windows Operation System. Could you please tell us which Windows O S you used to load 1.21b.



Windows XP SP2 and a 50' serial cable


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/12018030
> 
> 
> Ordered the D2 and it is still somewhere in the Pacific ocean.



I hope it has scuba gear on.


Truthfully, if adding water helps I'll try anything to get consistent video


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12017482
> 
> 
> The only way to be SURE is to wait for the product to ship and then ask people who are using it (and who seem to know what they are talking about) whether they are getting judder free video when playing 1080p/24 into it from film based content.
> 
> 
> But you can usually get pretty close to sure by downloading the owners manual from the manufacturer's web site and looking through it for the technical details. If the projector switches refresh rates it will usually be mentioned somewhere in there.
> 
> 
> As it turns out, the Sony you are interested in is attracting a lot of attention from other posters in this thread. So there will probably be a definitive answer in this thread as soon as it can be tried.
> 
> 
> I think the odds are good this projector will do the right thing with 1080p/24 input, since that's a key market for it.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob. I am pretty sure there are few Black Pearl and RS1 owners in this thread... please chime in on the thoughts above regarding 1080P/24.. how do you have the PJs connected to the D2... are you having success passing through 1080P/24 from the source - d2 to the pearl or the RS1?


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/12018030
> 
> 
> Ordered the D2 and it is still somewhere in the Pacific ocean.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12020303
> 
> 
> I hope it has scuba gear on.


----------



## benleeys

Hi guys,


Have a little problem here which I would be grateful if someone can offer an explanation.


Am using the Denon 5910 player interlace component output to feed the D2 which then feeds 480p to my Sony D50 CRT projector. Beautiful picture enjoyed. Only snag is, every now and then the video signal is lost. I have to stop play and restart for the the picture to come back. Usually happens during a change of scene. When I replay that part, it's OK. Audio is unaffected.


I suspect strongly that the problem lies with the D2 and not the player because there is no problem when connection to the projector is made direct from the player.


Have tried emailing Anthem about this, but have so far failed to elicit a reply from them.


Ben


----------



## slots1

I have had my D2 for about 4 months. My salesman/tech guy came over a few weeks ago and tweeked the sound and the picture (still waiting for ISF guy) and the sound and the picture are beyound wow. That is with the Marantz S3 and no hi def dvd's yet.

Had the Directv upgraded to the new dish and most channels are just super.

Any recomendation on successful sound and picture with either a dvd player and the D2 would be appreciated. My thinking has been to just wait, but I am getting anxious.


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/12019936
> 
> 
> Windows XP SP2 and a 50' serial cable



Thanks!


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/12019113
> 
> 
> Another D2 user (different forum) has reported problems installing 1.21b and Nick seems to point the problem to Windows Operation System. Could you please tell us which Windows O S you used to load 1.21b.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Windows XP media center & 25' serial cable.


----------



## Milt99

slots1,

Get PS3 and a Tosh HD player and get it over with.

If your Marantz doesn't 24p or multiples, you can get a A2 at Wally World for under 200 smackers.

Get a SonyStyle credit card and get a PS3 for $299 plus some free movies.

500 bucks for both formats running through a D2.

Very sweet indeed.


----------



## barhoram

Is there any easy way (besided an HDMI splitter) to display HDMI sources to a second zone? All of my sources to the D2 are HDMI, and I use the HDMI out to my projector. I would like to add a small LCD in the theater lobby copying what's being shown on the projector. Can this be done via component, composite, or s-video?? Any other ideas? Thanks.


----------



## Wings19

Slots1,

I have the new Pio Elite BDP-94HD and it looks great...I'm sure it will look even better when connected to the D2!


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12022835
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> Have a little problem here which I would be grateful if someone can offer an explanation.
> 
> 
> Am using the Denon 5910 player interlace component output to feed the D2 which then feeds 480p to my Sony D50 CRT projector. Beautiful picture enjoyed. Only snag is, every now and then the video signal is lost. I have to stop play and restart for the the picture to come back. Usually happens during a change of scene. When I replay that part, it's OK. Audio is unaffected.
> 
> 
> I suspect strongly that the problem lies with the D2 and not the player because there is no problem when connection to the projector is made direct from the player.
> 
> 
> Have tried emailing Anthem about this, but have so far failed to elicit a reply from them.
> 
> 
> Ben



Don't email, call them. Is the problem only occurring once during a DVD? Like at the layer change...


larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12029148
> 
> 
> Is there any easy way (besided an HDMI splitter) to display HDMI sources to a second zone? All of my sources to the D2 are HDMI, and I use the HDMI out to my projector. I would like to add a small LCD in the theater lobby copying what's being shown on the projector. Can this be done via component, composite, or s-video?? Any other ideas? Thanks.



You will not be able to send HDMI to the second TV with the Anthem alone.


Short of using an HDMI splitter as you suggest (which may produce its own problems), your best solution is to also run Component cables to the Anthem (and of course to your Zone 2 TV) and then send the UNprocessed version of the Component input signal to the Zone 2 output. You can do this either as a separate input selection or so that Zone 2 tracks whatever input selection you make for the Main path. Be aware that some source devices will not send out video on both Component and HDMI at the same time, or that the Component video output may be limited in resolution, due to industry copy protection stuff.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12022835
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> Have a little problem here which I would be grateful if someone can offer an explanation.
> 
> 
> Am using the Denon 5910 player interlace component output to feed the D2 which then feeds 480p to my Sony D50 CRT projector. Beautiful picture enjoyed. Only snag is, every now and then the video signal is lost. I have to stop play and restart for the the picture to come back. Usually happens during a change of scene. When I replay that part, it's OK. Audio is unaffected.
> 
> 
> I suspect strongly that the problem lies with the D2 and not the player because there is no problem when connection to the projector is made direct from the player.
> 
> 
> Have tried emailing Anthem about this, but have so far failed to elicit a reply from them.
> 
> 
> Ben



What version of the Anthem software are you running?

--Bob


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/12020599
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I am pretty sure there are few Black Pearl and RS1 owners in this thread... please chime in on the thoughts above regarding 1080P/24.. how do you have the PJs connected to the D2... are you having success passing through 1080P/24 from the source - d2 to the pearl or the RS1?



I'm running version 1.12s of the firmware on my D2, and have been able to successfully get a real 24 fps image out of my JVC RS-1 projector using HDMI at 1080/24p 4:2:2. I setup the D2 with two different output configurations defined -- 1080/60p and 1080/24p -- both with frame lock set to "OFF." Then I can switch between them based on whether I'm watching film vs. video-originated content.


I'm getting 24 fps both from 1080i/60 HDMI input from a DirecTV HD Tivo (HR10-250), and from 480i/60 component input from an ancient Toshiba DVD player. (I'm still waiting to buy the new combo Samsung high-def player available in a few weeks, so I don't have native 24 fps disk content to watch yet.)


When running 1080p/24 output to my RS-1, occasionally the D2 loses sync on these 60 fps film sources. This requires me to hit "pause" and then "play" to re-syc the image, so this process isn't entirely bulletproof yet. But it's worth trying because it definitely makes DirecTV movies, film-based TV shows, and standard DVD movies look much more "movie-like."


- Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dave,

Yes, this is the goal of what Anthem is trying to do here. The sync glitches you are seeing (and probably some stuttering now and again during playback) are the remaining bugs they are working on fixing.


RS1 users posting here seem to have had the most success doing this 480i or 1080i to 1080p/24 conversion with the V1.12s software. Posters with other projectors seem to be having less success, again due to the parts of this that Anthem is still working on.


1080p/24 input to 1080p/24 output should be rock solid at this point with the new Anthem software for all displays that can accept 1080p/24 input and alter their frame rates for judder-free display.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Does anyone have the new Toshiba A35 hd-dvd player and how does it work with the D2.

Sound and pic. It is their new top of the line. With deep color and 1080p/24. I think it has all the bells and whistles.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12030041
> 
> 
> Don't email, call them. Is the problem only occurring once during a DVD? Like at the layer change...
> 
> 
> larry



No, Larry, not at layer change. Usually happens when there's a change of scene. May happen once, occasionally twice, rarely thrice on a disc. Flag problem? But if I repeat the scene, it's fine.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12030082
> 
> 
> What version of the Anthem software are you running?
> 
> --Bob



Bob, am using ver. 1.11 software. Anybody else having this problem with this ver? Understand there's a newer version available, but it's not on Anthem's website yet for download.


Ben


----------



## TREVLAN

OK I've got another issue I am needing help with.


How come I can not use any surround fields?


Cable I can use everything

dvd I can only add thx and re-eq

ps3 I can only add thx and re-eq

360 I can only add thx and re-eq

sacd/dvd-a I can only add thx and re-eq


What am I doing wrong or not seeing?



P.s. I picked up the mca50 and running this as my amp now good bye sony..sounds alot better but my center -CC590 just doesn't seem "loud" at time it's wierd sometimes it will sound nice and clean then others low and muffled.



Trev


----------



## TREVLAN

Ben, you need to contact Nick at Anthem and they will mail you out the new version.


In about a month it should be on the website.



Trev


----------



## BLT

Hi guys:


I currently have an Anthem AVM 20 and I also have the new Pioneer Elite Pro 150FD(which is amazing ). I guess my question is do you think it would be worth the upgrgrade to the AVM 50? My current system consists of Pio BDP 94HD,Paradigm Studio Series 100's and matching fronts and surrounds and 2 Paradigm PW 2200 subwoofers,along with HD satellite. I would like to be able to have a one cable solution to my display but what I really like is the idea of multichannel Pcm over HDMI. I currently use the analog outs on the 94.


Thanks:


Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12036360
> 
> 
> Bob, am using ver. 1.11 software. Anybody else having this problem with this ver? Understand there's a newer version available, but it's not on Anthem's website yet for download.
> 
> 
> Ben



Ben there are several important fixes for Component video input since the original V1.11 software. The two most significant deal with (1) loss of all video (from all sources) due to attempting 1080i or 1080p input, and (2) image quality issues specific to Component 480i input. Not all V1.11 users have these problems so we haven't been recommending folks upgrade to the new software until Anthem does a formal release (on the web site) or you actually run into a problem.


However I don't know of a software fix specific to loss of ability to sync up with the Component video input such as you describe. The Anthem tech support people may have more info for you.


Three things to check. Make sure Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock is turned OFF for that input (select that input and then hold down the "7" key on the remote until the Video Source Adjust menu pops up). Next make sure your Setup / Video Output setting is NOT trying to send /24 (24 frames per second) video output from the Anthem to your TV when viewing 480i or 1080i content. Third if you have fiddled with the settings for that input in the Video Source Adjust / Picture / Video ADC menu, try returning those Video ADC menu items back to their original settings.


If you have NOT fiddled with those settings, then you might try a few tweeks in the Video ADC menu. This menu adjusts how the Anthem's video digitizer (ADC = Analog to Digital Converter) evaluates the analog Component video input signal it is trying to digitize. Mostly it is for dealing with oddball Component (and S-video) devices that put out a strange analog video signal. Your Denon should not be doing that.


If those checks don't fix the problem for you, you should definitely call Anthem tech support. They will likely ask you to install the latest software just to be sure your problem isn't fixed by that. If the latest software doesn't resolve your problem they may need to look at the Component input hardware in your Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/12036780
> 
> 
> OK I've got another issue I am needing help with.
> 
> 
> How come I can not use any surround fields?
> 
> 
> Cable I can use everything
> 
> dvd I can only add thx and re-eq
> 
> ps3 I can only add thx and re-eq
> 
> 360 I can only add thx and re-eq
> 
> sacd/dvd-a I can only add thx and re-eq
> 
> 
> What am I doing wrong or not seeing?



See this post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread


* Why can't I get to the audio processing mode I want?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post9627851 


Some of the surround stuff is only available if you happen to be listening to a mono or stereo signal at the moment. Those surround algorithms deal with how mono or stereo audio is raised to 5.1 or 7.1 speaker output. Other surround stuff is only available if you have rear surround speakers configured (a 7.1 speaker setup). And turning THX on also changes (limits) what surround stuff is available.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BLT* /forum/post/12037710
> 
> 
> Hi guys:
> 
> 
> I currently have an Anthem AVM 20 and I also have the new Pioneer Elite Pro 150FD(which is amazing ). I guess my question is do you think it would be worth the upgrgrade to the AVM 50? My current system consists of Pio BDP 94HD,Paradigm Studio Series 100's and matching fronts and surrounds and 2 Paradigm PW 2200 subwoofers,along with HD satellite. I would like to be able to have a one cable solution to my display but what I really like is the idea of multichannel Pcm over HDMI. I currently use the analog outs on the 94.
> 
> 
> Thanks:
> 
> 
> Bob



Absolutely! Your setup will love the improved audio. Consider a D2 as well.


In addition, Anthem will (eventually) get their remaining problems fixed with 480i/60 and 1080i/60 input to 1080p/24 output conversion for film based content (i.e., movies on standard DVD and on SDTV/HDTV). That's not working right yet, but when it is you'll be able to enjoy cadence judder-free viewing of that content on your Pioneer as well.


By the way, if you have experimented with 1080p/24 input into your Pioneer Elite 150FD, I'm sure folks would be interested to hear how well it seems to be working. And if do switch to the AVM-50 or D2, please also report on whether you run into any problems with 1080p/24 from the Anthem to the Pioneer.

--Bob


----------



## BLT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12037881
> 
> 
> Absolutely! Your setup will love the improved audio. Consider a D2 as well.
> 
> 
> In addition, Anthem will (eventually) get their remaining problems fixed with 480i/60 and 1080i/60 input to 1080p/24 output conversion for film based content (i.e., movies on standard DVD and on SDTV/HDTV). That's not working right yet, but when it is you'll be able to enjoy cadence judder-free viewing of that content on your Pioneer as well.
> 
> 
> By the way, if you have experimented with 1080p/24 input into your Pioneer Elite 150FD, I'm sure folks would be interested to hear how well it seems to be working. And if do switch to the AVM-50 or D2, please also report on whether you run into any problems with 1080p/24 from the Anthem to the Pioneer.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the quick reply Bob










Yes I have experimented with the 1080p/24 input on my new pioneer tv and it works flawless with the 94HD. I also set it to dot by dot with bluray movies as well as having the 94 output set to 1080p/24 (direct) and to my eyes anyway I see no judder.


Thanks and I will let you know how things work out when I get the upgrade hopefully before Christmas.


Cheers:


Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12037777
> 
> 
> Ben there are several important fixes for Component video input since the original V1.11 software. .............
> 
> 
> If those checks don't fix the problem for you, you should definitely call Anthem tech support. They will likely ask you to install the latest software just to be sure your problem isn't fixed by that. If the latest software doesn't resolve your problem they may need to look at the Component input hardware in your Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Wow, Bob, many thanks for your advice. For a plug and play guy like me, it's something which I shall have to sit down and chew on for a while before coming back and report on how things work out. Basically I am in a **** situation in that I am on the other side of the globe and the local distributor knows as much I do on the way the D2 works. And after all I read about the excellent support from Anthem, so far I've not got any response on my 2 attempts at emailing my problem to them.


Wish me luck.

Ben


----------



## TREVLAN

thx Bob Pariseau I ONLY HAVE 5.1 SET UP.

when I play my sacd/dvd-a player [denon 2910] it's hooked up via the 6.0 in the rear of the avm50 i do notice the center channel is really low on most sacd/dvd-a the avm manul says I should let the avm do the process and shut off what the player is doing.

but the center still sounds low.

Also playing movies, some dvds sound great for the center channel and others sound like crap.

same with blue ray its like a hit and miss depends on the movie.

do you think this could be the avm and something is wrong?

note that this happend with the sonyda5es as the amp and same thing with the mca50 as the amp.

i checked the cable for the cc590 paridgim center and the rca cable from the avm to the mca.

i'm at a lost.


all eq is set at 80thx and my center is below the tv and the avm for screen size is set to 56-66 as my tv is 60inch.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

TREVLAN,

The most important thing is to check your speaker levels using the test tones generated by the Anthem itself (Setup / Speaker Level Calibration). Do this with your trusty Radio Shack Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter -- not just by ear. If you have different listening positions, consider taking measurements at each and setting up the best "compromise" set of speaker levels to account for room variations.


If the center channel speaker level is balanced against the other speakers, and the setting makes sense to you (not wildly different from your other speakers), then you can eliminate the speaker itself, the amp, and the wiring as a source of low volume.


---------------------------------------------


The next most important thing is to check your speaker phasing. If you happen to have the wires reversed on any of your speakers then they will be "out of phase" compared to the other speakers. That means the audio they put out will tend to cancel the audio from other speakers -- particularly if the same audio is coming on different channels from the source content.


To test speaker phasing, use a calibration DVD such as Avia or Digital Video Essentials (DVE). The test will consist of an alternating pair of white noise signals along with a message saying one signal should appear "centered" between the two speakers, while the other signal should appear "diffused or spread out or hard to localize". If those two effects are reversed from what the message says you should be hearing then one of those two speakers has it's two wires connected backwards. You test phasing between pairs of speakers. The calibration DVD will walk you through that for each necessary pair.


------------------------------------------


Once you are certain that the Anthem speaker output levels are balanced and the speakers are in proper phase pair by pair, THEN start fiddling with the other audio settings.


The first thing to do is to make sure you aren't confusing yourself by having some of the "temporary" audio settings in effect. These are the settings you can make on the fly using the remote. These variations in the level settings are remembered for each input AND for each type of audio format from that input. So you may think you have them all set back to their default (0) values when in fact you've just checked for one style of audio and not for some other.


The best thing to do is to clear ALL of those temporary settings. You can do that all at once as follows:


In Setup / Save and Restore Settings:


* Save User Settings

* Reload Factory Defaults (note this may cause you to lose video, but you can continue via the Anthem front panel)

* Restore User Settings


The temporary settings aren't saved, so doing this clears all of them.


-------------------------------------------------


Once you've got that out of the way, the next thing to do is to make sure you have turned off any speaker configuration management that might be offered in any of your source devices. You don't want this speaker management stuff to happen more than once -- you just want the Anthem version to be done.


If some source has speaker configuration options, and doesn't offer a simple way to turn them off, then lie to that source about your true speaker configuration. Tell the source device that:


* You have a complete set of speakers including a subwoofer

* That all your main speakers are "large"

* That all your speakers are at the same listening distance. Any distance will do, so long as they are all set the same.

* That no speaker needs its volume boosted or cut to balance with the other speakers

* That your subwoofer will handle its own crossover (or if that option is not offered, that the subwoofer crossover is as high as the source will let you set)


These settings tell the source to do nothing to the audio before outputting it.


------------------------------------------------


As for the Anthem settings:


Be sure you have each input set to use the correct speaker configuration (Cinema or, if you've set it up, Music).


Personally, I prefer to leave that Center Speaker EQ filter turned off in my setup. Use it according to taste.


Some movies already have "THX Equalization" done on their audio before they are put on the disc. This process adjusts the center channel for the difference between theater and home environments. Read the manual and you'll discover you can turn THX Equalization on or off independent of whether the rest of the THX post processing is turned on. If the center channel sounds incorrect for some movie, try toggling that THX Equalization setting.


-----------------------------------------------


Finally, you may discover you have a room response problem -- a peak or null in frequency response in your room that happens to be in the vicinity of speech frequencies (the bulk of the center channel audio). This is tricky stuff, but if nothing else works, you might want to read up on room acoustic treatments.


The fact that your problem appears to happen only on some movies leads me to believe you either have a speaker phasing problem or that you have some of those "temporary" audio level settings turned on and don't realize it.

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

thx Bob , I will print your post off and try this tonight after work.


I will get back to you with my findings.


trev


----------



## Kensmith48

I plan on purchasing a new D2 from a dealer approx. 30 miles away. I tried to E-mail anthem at [email protected] but it came back as undeliverable. Since I can't reach Anthem cust. serv. I thought I'd ask the experts here. My question is: If I purchase a new D2 will it have all of the upgrades already installed and if not how do I go about installing them after I download from their site? I don't own a laptop so would I have to disconnect the D2 from my system every time there is an upgrade and connect it to my computer?

Thanks for any reply,

Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/12045277
> 
> 
> I plan on purchasing a new D2 from a dealer approx. 30 miles away. I tried to E-mail anthem at [email protected] but it came back as undeliverable. Since I can't reach Anthem cust. serv. I thought I'd ask the experts here. My question is: If I purchase a new D2 will it have all of the upgrades already installed and if not how do I go about installing them after I download from their site? I don't own a laptop so would I have to disconnect the D2 from my system every time there is an upgrade and connect it to my computer?
> 
> Thanks for any reply,
> 
> Ken



Recent D2s have been shipping with the V1.2 software factory installed.


The version on the Anthem web site is the much older V1.11 -- do NOT load that one onto your D2.


We've had reports here of Anthem tech support emailing out (on request, usually in response to a customer problem report) a "beta test" version V1.21b, and that a V1.21c is expected perhaps even this week. I'd suggest sticking with the V1.2 version for now, unless you run into a problem.


If your computer is within, say 50 feet of your D2, you can use a long serial cable to connect it to the D2 for software installs whenever you need to do them. Even longer might very well work since the data transfer rates are low. But yes, failing that you will need to move the D2 closer to the computer for software installs or get a portable computer. Note that you will also need to hook up the computer when running the analysis and setup for the upcoming Anthem Room EQ upgrade expect around the end of this year.


I'm surprised you had a problem with that email address. You can also CALL Anthem tech support at (905) 362-0958, ext.240.

--Bob


[EDITED to correct test software version numbers.]


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks for all the info Bob.

Looks like a laptop might be my best option, since the computer is on the 2nd floor and the D2 will be in the basement.


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/12045277
> 
> 
> I plan on purchasing a new D2 from a dealer approx. 30 miles away. I tried to E-mail anthem at [email protected] but it came back as undeliverable. Since I can't reach Anthem cust. serv. I thought I'd ask the experts here. My question is: If I purchase a new D2 will it have all of the upgrades already installed and if not how do I go about installing them after I download from their site? I don't own a laptop so would I have to disconnect the D2 from my system every time there is an upgrade and connect it to my computer?
> 
> Thanks for any reply,
> 
> Ken



Hi Kensmith48,


I was in exactly the same situation as you and I did the upgrade yesterday. My dealer is also at about the same distance as yours and I don't have a laptop. I tried to email Anthem and the message also bounced back as endeliverable.


Here is what you have to do:


Call Nick directly at Anthem and tell him that the emails don't work (I did) and then he will probably send you the version that is best for you. Afterwards, you will be able to use his email address and it will work (the address is the same as the one on the web page but go figure?). I made up a 30 ft RS-232 cable and connected it from my computer upstairs to the D2 in the basement. I had no problems whatsoever to do the upgrade..



Good luck


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/12036793
> 
> 
> Ben, you need to contact Nick at Anthem and they will mail you out the new version.
> 
> 
> In about a month it should be on the website.
> 
> 
> 
> Trev



Yea, thanks, Trev. Think I'll do just that.


By the way, must the D2 remain connected to the system when being upgraded or can I disconnect it so I can move it to my PC some distance away?


Ben


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12037777
> 
> 
> Ben .......However I don't know of a software fix specific to loss of ability to sync up with the Component video input such as you describe. ...... try a few tweeks in the Video ADC menu. --Bob



Hi Bob,


I think I got my problem of video signal loss solved, thanks to your suggestion to tweek the Video ADC menu.


After seeing all settings were at default here, I was browsing the other Picture settings and saw that Input Color Space was set at HDTV. I haven't gone over to HD as yet and have been enjoying SD all along. So I simply set it to Auto (in case I play a HD content someday).


Well, after a couple of SD movies, I haven't had a case of video loss yet.










Thanks again for your help.

Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12046769
> 
> 
> Yea, thanks, Trev. Think I'll do just that.
> 
> 
> By the way, must the D2 remain connected to the system when being upgraded or can I disconnect it so I can move it to my PC some distance away?
> 
> 
> Ben



It is actually best to have the D2 NOT connected to anything else when doing a software upgrade. This is particularly important as regards HDMI connections. See the "Belt and Suspenders" post on upgrading the software found in the collection of links in the first post in this thread.


For folks who don't need to move their D2 to do the upgrade, I recommend they disconnect everything but the D2 and the computer from wall power (i.e., leave the cables attached but make sure nothing else has wall power). For some source devices and displays it is NOT sufficient merely to turn them off. Their HDMI sockets are live even when they are off.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12047203
> 
> 
> It is actually best to have the D2 NOT connected to anything else when doing a software upgrade. This is particularly important as regards HDMI connections. See the "Belt and Suspenders" post on upgrading the software found in the collection of links in the first post in this thread.
> 
> 
> For folks who don't need to move their D2 to do the upgrade, I recommend they disconnect everything but the D2 and the computer from wall power (i.e., leave the cables attached but make sure nothing else has wall power). For some source devices and displays it is NOT sufficient merely to turn them off. Their HDMI sockets are live even when they are off.
> 
> --Bob



The upgrade instrcutions specifically mention disconnecting all HDMI connections when doing the upgrade.


----------



## AltaHomeTheatre

Hi to all in this great thread. First time post although I have read the entire thread a couple of times over the last few months.


I have recently installed my first HT and am very happy with the results. I am very much a novice and thus my question may be insulting to some. I may also be posting this in the wrong forum, but you seem to cover a bit of everything here. The question concerns calibrating the subs through my D2.


First a little background: My HT is a dedicated room approximately 12x17. It is in a basement. Walls are doubled for sound insulation. Carpet is on the floor. My equipment consists of Anthem D2 and MCA50. Paradigm Reference speakers. 2 subwoofers (10" Paradigm Siesmic and 15" Klipsch).


My problem is what seems to be a lack of bass "within" the HT room. I hear others talk about bass shaking the entire room (even causing projector lens to shake), but I dont feel much in mine. I have used a sound meter to balance all the speakers to the same level (although I increased subs by a couple of Dbs). Previously, I had the Klipsch upstairs in a larger room powered by a Marantx SR6200 and I could feel the bass.


When a scene with a lot of bass (ie beginning of War of the Worlds) is played, I can turn up the bass enough to start to feel it (increasing bass level on D2 by +7Db from my balanced default setting). With this setting I can feel a bit of the bass. But what is odd, if I go upstairs - the walls, pictures, china, etc are vibrating like crazy. Therfore I know bass is coming out of those subs, but dont know why its not in the HT room. The subs are currently at the front of the HT, but I have experimented with moving them around.


I dont know what to try next. I dont have any room accoustics yet. There is only one leather chair currently in the room. I dont know if the two subs are cancelling each other out (although I get similar results with only one sub). I dont know if I have the D2 configured properly. I dont know if the subs are configured properly. I did go through the very helpful Bob Pariseaus post on configuring his Velodyne sub.


Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated. I think there must be some way of keeping the bass in the room without having to turn it up so high that the rest of my house is going to shake apart.


Thanks in advance

Darryl


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AltaHomeTheatre* /forum/post/12052922
> 
> 
> Hi to all in this great thread. First time post although I have read the entire thread a couple of times over the last few months.
> 
> 
> I have recently installed my first HT and am very happy with the results. I am very much a novice and thus my question may be insulting to some. I may also be posting this in the wrong forum, but you seem to cover a bit of everything here. The question concerns calibrating the subs through my D2.
> 
> 
> First a little background: My HT is a dedicated room approximately 12x17. It is in a basement. Walls are doubled for sound insulation. Carpet is on the floor. My equipment consists of Anthem D2 and AVM50. Paradigm Reference speakers. 2 subwoofers (10" Paradigm Siesmic and 15" Klipsch).
> 
> 
> My problem is what seems to be a lack of bass "within" the HT room. I hear others talk about bass shaking the entire room (even causing projector lens to shake), but I dont feel much in mine. I have used a sound meter to balance all the speakers to the same level (although I increased subs by a couple of Dbs). Previously, I had the Klipsch upstairs in a larger room powered by a Marantx SR6200 and I could feel the bass.
> 
> 
> When a scene with a lot of bass (ie beginning of War of the Worlds) is played, I can turn up the bass enough to start to feel it (increasing bass level on D2 by +7Db from my balanced default setting). With this setting I can feel a bit of the bass. But what is odd, if I go upstairs - the walls, pictures, china, etc are vibrating like crazy. Therfore I know bass is coming out of those subs, but dont know why its not in the HT room. The subs are currently at the front of the HT, but I have experimented with moving them around.
> 
> 
> I dont know what to try next. I dont have any room accoustics yet. There is only one leather chair currently in the room. I dont know if the two subs are cancelling each other out (although I get similar results with only one sub). I dont know if I have the D2 configured properly. I dont know if the subs are configured properly. I did go through the very helpful Bob Pariseaus post on configuring his Velodyne sub.
> 
> 
> Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated. I think there must be some way of keeping the bass in the room without having to turn it up so high that the rest of my house is going to shake apart.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Darryl



First make sure the crossover inside each sub is disabled. Turn it off or turn it to its highest frequency.


The most common reasons for feeling you don't have enough sub are:


* Insufficient size of subwoofer for the volume of the room that needs to be pressurized. Remember that any openings out of the room increase the work the sub has to do. Fix this by getting a bigger sub or more than one sub. I suspect this is not your problem based on what you are seeing/hearing outside the listening room.


* Room response canceling out critical frequency ranges in the bass area. Every room generates some standing pressure waves in the bass frequencies. When these cancel the audio coming from the sub, the sub has to fight with that cancellation. Fix this by repositioning your subs or putting up bass absorbing room treatments that block the reflections that produce the canceling pressure waves.


* Subs out of phase with each other or out of phase with the main speakers. Again the audio gets canceled out -- this time by direct conflict with audio coming from the other speaker.


------------------------------------------


The Anthem's internal test tones in the Room Response Filter menu can help you determine how bad your room effects are. Set up the basic level for your subs, and then use your SPL meter and the test tones on this page to see how SPL varies as the tone frequency ranges from the crossover to very low frequency. It is not unusual to find some pretty severe dips, and also some surprising peaks.


Repositioning the subs a little at a time, and room treatment, can help eliminate the dips. The Room Response Filter can help eliminate your most dramatic peak.


Take your time and work to get as flat a response as you can. Then readjust the basic speaker level for your sub and do some listening.


------------------------------------------------------


Phase problems in subwoofers are hard to detect by ear. The phase test tones in calibration DVDs can help make sure your sub is properly set for phase against the main speakers. What you are looking for is the phase setting that maximizes the higher end hiss of the bass frequency white noise put out as the test tone. The more of the high end of that low frequency white noise you can hear the less the audio from the mains is canceling the audio from the subs (which cancellation will, naturally, occur at the higher end of the base range -- near the crossover -- where both the mains and the sub are putting out sound).


With two subs, try disconnecting one and setting phase for the other against the mains. You can do this with the phase control in the Anthem or on the sub. Then disconnect that sub and reconnect the second sub and do it again. Note that the phase control in the Anthem applies to both sub outputs, so you can only use it to set one sub. The other sub has to be set with its own internal control. This is also a good time to see that the volume control on each of your two subs is set so that the two subs are contributing roughly the same amount to the bass test tone SPL output.


When each sub is, separately, in phase with the mains, then they must also be in phase with each other.


There are PC graphing programs available that will help you see what's happening to your room response in real time as you make adjustments. See the subwoofer forum here.

--Bob


----------



## AltaHomeTheatre

Bob,

Thanks very much for the response. I feel honored to have you respond, although not surprised as you have to be the most helpful person I have ever come across on any forum.


I will print and work through your detailed response. I know it will take time and I appreciate the step-by-step guide you have given me. I have ordered the Avia setup disk and I imagine it will also help me out greatly.


Thanks

Darryl


----------



## hifisponge

_From Bob:

"The Anthem's internal test tones in the Room Response Filter menu can help you determine how bad your room effects are. Set up the basic level for your subs, and then use your SPL meter and the test tones on this page to see how SPL varies as the tone frequency ranges from the crossover to very low frequency. It is not unusual to find some pretty severe dips, and also some surprising peaks.


Repositioning the subs a little at a time, and room treatment, can help eliminate the dips. The Room Response Filter can help eliminate your most dramatic peak.


Take your time and work to get as flat a response as you can. Then readjust the basic speaker level for your sub and do some listening."_


I would just like to add the recommendation that you graph out the results of these readings (SPL level on the left vertical side of the graph and frequency along the bottom). It is much easier to get a sense of the width of the peaks and dips if you have a visual of the overall bass response. Creating the graph will also help you set the center frequency for the Anthem's notch filter.


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12037881
> 
> 
> Absolutely! Your setup will love the improved audio. Consider a D2 as well.
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, if you have experimented with 1080p/24 input into your Pioneer Elite 150FD, I'm sure folks would be interested to hear how well it seems to be working. --Bob




I've got a D2 with the Elite Pro150-FD. I haven't seen any judder with HDDVD, BlueRay, DVD or cable. Just an incredible picture.


----------



## legacyrocks

I have an AVM 50 with version 1.12s and a Pioneer Elite Pro 150 FD and have had no problems with a PS3 passing 1080p/24fps.


----------



## rudolpht

1.21d getting closer, but experienced shifted screen switching from S3 Tivo to Blu-ray Spiderman 3. Disappointing. The screen went blue multiple times and the play, languages (uncompressed 5.1 is good), and other options floated over no background picture. With some trial and error got picture going without reboot but I assume most people wouldn't have the patience.


----------



## benleeys

Hi Guys,


The D2 permits the user to tweak brightness, contrast, color, etc. of the image projected on a screen. But these facilities are also found in the player and finally, the projector/TV as well.


My question is, do we tweak them all, or simply tweak in one component in the chain and leave the others alone in default settings? If tweaking is to be done on only one component, which one?


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12070362
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> The D2 permits the user to tweak brightness, contrast, color, etc. of the image projected on a screen. But these facilities are also found in the player and finally, the projector/TV as well.
> 
> 
> My question is, do we tweak them all, or simply tweak in one component in the chain and leave the others alone in default settings? If tweaking is to be done on only one component, which one?
> 
> 
> Ben



Check out the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread. That will walk you through the steps.


But the simple answer is you turn OFF any video adjustments in your sources. Then you use the video adjustments in your TV to best reproduce the video test charts internally generated by the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Patterns) which are independent of any source device. Then, finally, you adjust the INPUT settings in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Picture) as necessary to fine tune for each source device.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12066024
> 
> 
> 1.21d getting closer, but experienced shifted screen switching from S3 Tivo to Blu-ray Spiderman 3. Disappointing. The screen went blue multiple times and the play, languages (uncompressed 5.1 is good), and other options floated over no background picture. With some trial and error got picture going without reboot but I assume most people wouldn't have the patience.



Do you know of any other bugs reportedly fixed in V1.21c or V1.21d?

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12070362
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> The D2 permits the user to tweak brightness, contrast, color, etc. of the image projected on a screen. But these facilities are also found in the player and finally, the projector/TV as well.
> 
> 
> My question is, do we tweak them all, or simply tweak in one component in the chain and leave the others alone in default settings? If tweaking is to be done on only one component, which one?
> 
> 
> Ben



You should use the D2 test patterns with the display adjustments to calibrate the screen to the output of the D2. Once you have that correct, you can tweak the adjustements on the D2 for each source as needed. You should set all settings on the sources themselves at mid/default levels.


I'm sure others will expand and correct what I'm saying, but this is a start. There are sections of this thread about setting up and calibrating your screen.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12070622
> 
> 
> Check out the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread. That will walk you through the steps.
> 
> 
> But the simple answer is you turn OFF any video adjustments in your sources. Then you use the video adjustments in your TV to best reproduce the video test charts internally generated by the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Patterns) which are independent of any source device. Then, finally, you adjust the INPUT settings in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Picture) as necessary to fine tune for each source device.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah. What Bob said.


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12070645
> 
> 
> Do you know of any other bugs reportedly fixed in V1.21c or V1.21d?
> 
> --Bob



This is what I got from Anthem.


v1.21d:


1. The video muted background color can now be set independently of the setup menu background color. Recommended: Set video mute to gray to prevent blue screen when switching input and/or resolution changes from native-output cable box.


2. Fixed crackling problem exhibited in some units when multichannel PCM input was played.


3. Fixed '0x4 / 0x5 error' installation problem that sometimes resulted with v1.21b.


4. Further refinement to Macrovision detection sequence.


Due to the menu item addition in #1, Setup Editor v1.20 cannot be used.


----------



## Tim Winders

1.21d is now available by contacting Anthem. 1.21c was never posted. I downloaded 1.21b but never installed it. I will be installing 1.21d tonight.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem had stated that the V1.21b software should not be installed by folks using Component video (to the TV I believe). Has there been any indication whether that's supposed to have been fixed in V1.21c (not sent out) or this new V1.21d now being sent out?

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12070645
> 
> 
> Do you know of any other bugs reportedly fixed in V1.21c or V1.21d?
> 
> --Bob



My understanding is d handles some additional HDMI tuning. I don't know if 1.21c was ever really beta released.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12073013
> 
> 
> My understanding is d handles some additional HDMI tuning. I don't know if 1.21c was ever really beta released.



1.21c was never released.


I installed 1.21d tonight. It was my first D2 upgrade and it went smoothly. I followed the instructions per the upgrade app and all went well. I used a Windows XP SP2 workstation with a Keyspan 4 port serial -> USB adapter. The D2 was connected to the 2nd serial port which happened to be mapped to COM5 under Windows. The upgrade took about 10 minutes.


I haven't tested anything other than to know it works. The default for the background screen when signal handshaking occurs (known as "video muted background") is now supposed to be grey while the menu default is still blue. I'm going to change my TiVo to native output over HDMI and try it and compare to Component output.


One nice interface feature change... when you rename an input source, the menu now shows the renamed interface name in parenthesis next to the input name. For example, I changed TV1 to TiVo. One the setup menu it now shows:


TV1 (TiVo)


Simple, but cool.


For those of you running an version of 1.11, the full release changes for 1.20, 1.21b and 1.21d are as follows. (These have all been posted in this thread, but here they are summarized as easy reference)



> Quote:
> v1.21d:
> 
> 
> 1. The video muted background color can now be set independently of the setup menu background color. Recommended: Set video mute to gray to prevent blue screen when switching input and/or resolution changes from native-output cable box.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed crackling problem exhibited in some units when multichannel PCM input was played.
> 
> 
> 3. Fixed '0x4 / 0x5 error' installation problem that sometimes resulted with v1.21b.
> 
> 
> 4. Further refinement to Macrovision detection sequence.
> 
> 
> Due to the menu item addition in #1, Setup Editor v1.20 cannot be used.
> 
> 
> 
> v1.21b:
> 
> 
> 1. 2-line display shows input resolution in upper line and volume in lower line.
> 
> 
> 2. Menus 6 and 7 show renamed source names beside factory source names.
> 
> 
> 3. Enabled HDMI audio-in when no HDMI display is connected.
> 
> 
> 4. Fix in handling of Macrovision encoded analog video sources, especially if both video-out configurations are used.
> 
> 
> 5. Fixed Component2 passthrough mode.
> 
> 
> 6. Improvements to installer stability with various PC and hardware combinations.
> 
> 
> 
> v1.20:
> 
> 
> 1. Setup menu 24 characters wide instead of 28 due to old character generator becoming obsolete.
> 
> 
> 2. Analog input level meter now has overload indication (pink = signal is within last 6 dB of scale, red = overload).
> 
> 
> 3. Dual video output configuration added, assignable by input.
> 
> 
> 4. Setup menus rearranged including split between source setup and mode presets.
> 
> 
> 5. MODE key shortcuts rearranged to include video-out selection.
> 
> 
> 6. Contrast adjustment bars added to SMPTE color bar test pattern.
> 
> 
> 7. Added ability to select HDMI audio-in with alternate video-in.
> 
> 
> 8. Deleted Bass Peak Level Manager - too many "bass sounds thin" calls arising from misuse, and because decent subs normally don't need external limiting.
> 
> 
> 9. Major HDMI/EDID driver changes to address capabilities of latest HD disc players and other newer sources without corruption of earlier sources, and to improve 'auto' video-out setting with DVI displays (auto relies on info from the display - if it doesn't appear that the correct output is in effect, use forced settings).
> 
> 
> 10. Added Dialog Normalization to info when Status is pressed (not displayed when 0 dB).
> 
> 
> 11. More installer changes to address a variation of XP.
> 
> 
> 12. Added gamma curve generating tools to Live Video Settings Editor to make curve creation and simple gain/offset adjustments quicker and easier.
> 
> 
> 13. Upgraded D1s now display "D2" instead of "D1-HD".
> 
> 
> 14. DVD2 and DVD3 now disabled by default (still set as pillarbox and 16:9 input crop respectively).
> 
> 
> 15. Improved lock for analog video input.
> 
> 
> 16. Improved frame lock.
> 
> 
> 17. Increased serial command buffering at power-on.
> 
> 
> 18. Improved handling of 1080p24 in to 1080p24 out without using frame lock.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim,

Thanks for posting that summary!


LEVESQUE, it might be good to copy this info to the first post in this thread.


Tim, I take it there was no warning with your V1.21d stuff about not using this in Component video installations, right?


==============================


EDITED TO ADD: I suppose it would be good to add that this list is BY NO MEANS a complete list of the bug fixes since the original V1.11. It is more like a list of the changes since V1.11g.


Additional fixes include elimination of the infamous 1080i/1080p input bug, elimination of the Component 480i input image degradation bug, numerous HDMI fixes related to Toshiba HD-DVD players, elimination of the most serious bugs causing software installation to fail, and probably others that I've forgotten.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12075825
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> Thanks for posting that summary!
> 
> 
> LEVESQUE, it might be good to copy this info to the first post in this thread.
> 
> 
> Tim, I take it there was no warning with your V1.21d stuff about not using this in Component video installations, right?
> 
> 
> ==============================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: I suppose it would be good to add that this list is BY NO MEANS a complete list of the bug fixes since the original V1.11. It is more like a list of the changes since V1.11g.
> 
> 
> Additional fixes include elimination of the infamous 1080i/1080p input bug, elimination of the Component 480i input image degradation bug, numerous HDMI fixes related to Toshiba HD-DVD players, elimination of the most serious bugs causing software installation to fail, and probably others that I've forgotten.
> 
> --Bob



Correct, Bob. No warnings for Component video installations.


I would agree that this list is most likely not comprehensive. This is from the "Read Me First.txt" file included with the 1.21d beta. That readme does not detail the numerous 1.11 betas.


I suppose it is possible the 1.20 fixes include those from the various 1.11 betas. For example, could "15. Improved lock for analog video input." be related to the Component bugs you reference? Perhaps "9. Major HDMI/EDID driver changes..." contain the HDMI fixes you mention? I don't know.


I'll give it a few days before I decide if this version is more stable that 1.20, but as I don't have the setup which exibited the problems in 1.20, it will be impossible for me to say if 1.21d fixes those problems.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12075825
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> Thanks for posting that summary!
> 
> 
> LEVESQUE, it might be good to copy this info to the first post in this thread.
> 
> 
> Tim, I take it there was no warning with your V1.21d stuff about not using this in Component video installations, right?



Well, from the longer standing Tim there was no warning on the Component. I assess d is a step backwards from b.


Tonight I could not start an HD DVD without 3 power cycles including one hard cycle (switch in back). Also the static audio on multiple sources that was supposed to be first a few iterations ago. Blue screen on component sources (even with all 4 options where gray is to settings). Another hard power cycle.


This is getting ridiculous. I'll probably go back to b as I only needed to power cycle like 1 in 5 times and usually one cycle did it.


----------



## chexi1

Well... I think this settles it for me. I have been waiting to pull the trigger on upgrading my AVM30 to the 50 for the scaler, vertical stretch option, and lossless audio. I have enough frustration in my life... I'll just get a pj with a decent scaler and vertical stretch and live without lossless audio. I feel for you guys and hope for the sake of your sanity that Anthem can get this right... someday.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12076536
> 
> 
> Well, from the longer standing Tim there was no warning on the Component. I assess d is a step backwards from b.
> 
> 
> Tonight I could not start an HD DVD without 3 power cycles including one hard cycle (switch in back). Also the static audio on multiple sources that was supposed to be first a few iterations ago. Blue screen on component sources (even with all 4 options where gray is to settings). Another hard power cycle.
> 
> 
> This is getting ridiculous. I'll probably go back to b as I only needed to power cycle like 1 in 5 times and usually one cycle did it.



Grrrr. I can't imaging having to do power cycles. I haven't experienced that problem.


A few comments I noticed after using 1.21d for a couple hours.

_Video Mute default color is supposed to be Gray_. *EDIT: This is not completely accurate. Video mute will deafult to Gray for new units. For upgraded units, the previous default Blue will remain. The readme suggests changing this to gray. END EDIT* I followed the upgrade instructions... saved D2 settings, reset D2 to factory default, performed upgrade, restored user settings. After that, Video Mute was still set to blue. I had to change it to Gray. It is less annonying to have the Gray (really black) screen rather than a blue screen, but I prefer not to have any blanking at all.


I ran my TiVo HD in native mode for a while. However, connected via HDMI to the D2, I noticed that while in native mode, I got NO AUDIO from analog stations (I only have OTA reception, no cable). From digital stations I did receive audio. I changed the TiVo to Fixed 1080i output and then I received audio on the analog stations. I made no other changes in the D2.


I don't recall having this problem before. However, I only used Native mode briefly before and don't know if I ever happened to test this situation.


If anybody has a TiVo with OTA connections and can test audio on the D2 over HDMI from both analog and digital stations in Native and Fixed modes, I would be interested in the results. I don't know if this is a TiVo bug or something newly introduced in the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

TW,

You may have to enable digital output for your analog stations in the Tivo.


That would be a pretty common setting to make in such a box.


Basically the analog stations should cause the Tivo to output PCM (stereo or mono).


However I don't know why switching to fixed 1080i output would do that for you.

---Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12070622
> 
> 
> Check out the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread. That will walk you through the steps.
> 
> 
> But the simple answer is you turn OFF any video adjustments in your sources. Then you use the video adjustments in your TV to best reproduce the video test charts internally generated by the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Patterns) which are independent of any source device. Then, finally, you adjust the INPUT settings in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Picture) as necessary to fine tune for each source device.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12070693
> 
> 
> You should use the D2 test patterns with the display adjustments to calibrate the screen to the output of the D2. Once you have that correct, you can tweak the adjustements on the D2 for each source as needed. You should set all settings on the sources themselves at mid/default levels.
> 
> 
> I'm sure others will expand and correct what I'm saying, but this is a start. There are sections of this thread about setting up and calibrating your screen.



Thanks guys. Makes sense to leave the source alone and adjust the processor input after calibrating the display. This way if the source or processor is replaced, the only tweaking done will only be on the processor input. It settles an ongoing debate with a buddy here.


Ben


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12077184
> 
> 
> Grrrr. I can't imaging having to do power cycles. I haven't experienced that problem.
> 
> 
> A few comments I noticed after using 1.21d for a couple hours.
> 
> 
> Video Mute default color is supposed to be Gray. I followed the upgrade instructions... saved D2 settings, reset D2 to factory default, performed upgrade, restored user settings. After that, Video Mute was still set to blue. I had to change it to Gray. It is less annonying to have the Gray (really black) screen rather than a blue screen, but I prefer not to have any blanking at all.



I don't use the HDMI on Tivo anymore (it's against my religion







) but there is a Settings/Sound setting, I had sound issues previously (which is why I use component (with blue screens now, despite being set to gray) and optical.


My upgrade I had one of the settings on the Anthem set to Gray, but the other 3 were not. I noticed the letterbox setting has more gradiations now also.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,



> Quote:
> I ran my TiVo HD in native mode for a while. However, connected via HDMI to the D2, I noticed that while in native mode, I got NO AUDIO from analog stations (I only have OTA reception, no cable). From digital stations I did receive audio. I changed the TiVo to Fixed 1080i output and then I received audio on the analog stations. I made no other changes in the D2.
> 
> 
> I don't recall having this problem before. However, I only used Native mode briefly before and don't know if I ever happened to test this situation.



Tim, when this happens try re-establishing the HDMI handshake by switching off of the TIVO input and then back again and see if the audio comes back on the analog channels.


This occurs with my AVM-50 and Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR. I use a macro command to always turn my DVR off on an analog channel when I am done watching TV. That way when the box is powered on initially it does so on that channel and the audio always works correctly from that point forward regardless of whether I switch back and forth to digital channels and analong channels or not.


If I power the box on to a digital channel (I get sound no problem) and then switch to an analog I end up with no sound on the analog channel and have to re-establish the HDMI handshake to get sound.


Regards,


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12077668
> 
> 
> TW,
> 
> You may have to enable digital output for your analog stations in the Tivo.
> 
> 
> That would be a pretty common setting to make in such a box.
> 
> 
> Basically the analog stations should cause the Tivo to output PCM (stereo or mono).
> 
> 
> However I don't know why switching to fixed 1080i output would do that for you.
> 
> ---Bob



Thanks, Bob. It's one that makes me go "huh".










I'll try it with Component/Optical audio tonight with both native and fixed and report back.


But honestly... I'm beginning to just lean toward sticking with fixed output and just enjoying watching.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/12079818
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tim, when this happens try re-establishing the HDMI handshake by switching off of the TIVO input and then back again and see if the audio comes back on the analog channels.
> 
> 
> This occurs with my AVM-50 and Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR. I use a macro command to always turn my DVR off on an analog channel when I am done watching TV. That way when the box is powered on initially it does so on that channel and the audio always works correctly from that point forward regardless of whether I switch back and forth to digital channels and analong channels or not.
> 
> 
> If I power the box on to a digital channel (I get sound no problem) and then switch to an analog I end up with no sound on the analog channel and have to re-establish the HDMI handshake to get sound.
> 
> 
> Regards,




Interesting. I didn't think about reestablishing the HDMI handshaking. But, I wonder why it would work OK with fixed output and not native???










I'll try that tonight in addition to the Component/Digital audio and report back.


----------



## Nathan_R

I haven't done a firmware update in probably 9 months from both laziness and a fear of breaking something, but this one sounds pretty robust. I think I'll load it tonight.


Thanks for the changelog.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12077184
> 
> 
> Video Mute default color is supposed to be Gray.



This is a misunderstanding on my part. Video Mute default will be gray on new units. Upgraded units will remain at the previous default of Blue. The Read Me First clearly says Gray is recommended, but no where does it say it will be the default.


My bad.


----------



## PooperScooper

The big thing that 1.21d fixes (at least for me and Anthem) is the "crackling" with MCH PCM caused by different "brand" ribbon cables now being used on the DSP board. A clocking change seems to fix the issue. Both units I had demonstrated varying degrees of crackling (background noise vs obnoxious) and 1.21d fixes both of them.


larry


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/12079818
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tim, when this happens try re-establishing the HDMI handshake by switching off of the TIVO input and then back again and see if the audio comes back on the analog channels.
> 
> 
> This occurs with my AVM-50 and Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR. I use a macro command to always turn my DVR off on an analog channel when I am done watching TV. That way when the box is powered on initially it does so on that channel and the audio always works correctly from that point forward regardless of whether I switch back and forth to digital channels and analong channels or not.
> 
> 
> If I power the box on to a digital channel (I get sound no problem) and then switch to an analog I end up with no sound on the analog channel and have to re-establish the HDMI handshake to get sound.
> 
> 
> Regards,



I asked Nick about that at CEDIA but they haven't gotten around to it yet. Kind of annoying to have to go through that every time. You can also switch to another input (e.g., cd or anything else) and go back to tv and it re-establishes the connection. I believe Nick told me it was not a handshake issue. I'm not sure anymore.


----------



## Kensmith48

Well, I finally went and ordered a D2. I figured this was the best for the money, and nothings perfect. I think you could find fault with anything out there, and who knows this whole HDMI thing might just go away someday. Anyway in about 7-10 days I'll officially be in the Anthem ranks.

Ken


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nathan_R* /forum/post/12080248
> 
> 
> I haven't done a firmware update in probably 9 months from both laziness and a fear of breaking something, but this one sounds pretty robust. I think I'll load it tonight.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the changelog.



Given the component issue introduced suggest you go yo 1.21b vs d.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12079849
> 
> 
> Interesting. I didn't think about reestablishing the HDMI handshaking. But, I wonder why it would work OK with fixed output and not native???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try that tonight in addition to the Component/Digital audio and report back.



I did some additional testing last night...


No audio on analog stations with HDMI connection an native output from TiVo HD....


changing the input on the D2 to another source, then back to the TiVo did indeed restore the audio over the HDMI connection. When using Component/Digital Audio I never experienced loss of audio on digital stations. When using HDMI and fixed resolution output from the TiVo HD, I never experienced loss of audio on analog stations. This implies some type of HDMI handshaking issue. I don't know if this has always been there or was introduced in 1.21d. Based on feedback in the forum, this seems to be a common issue.


Changing channels on TiVo HD when using Native resolution output...


I tried again with both HDMI and Component/Digital audio connections. In both cases, there seems to be an approximate 3-4sec video mute when the TiVo changes output resolutions and the D2 has to resync. After speaking with Nick, this is exactly what they have experienced when using various DVR boxes in Native resolution when connecting the DVR *directly to the display*. I understand why this happens with HDMI, but I'm still confused why it happens with Component. In any case, it doesn't appear to be an issue with the D2 as the same thing happens when the D2 is not in the connection chain. It's an issue with all DVR boxes (tested so far) and Native output.


After much viewing in changing sources on the TiVo HD to display 480i, 720p and 1080i I have concluded I actually prefer the Fixed 1080i output from the TiVo HD over the Native res output. So, in my setup, I will stick with HDMI connection from the TiVo HD to the D2 and stick with Fixed 1080i. In this setup, I don't have any video resycing problems, no audio dropouts and it looks good. I have extra HDMI ports to burn on the D2, so I'm not worried about "wasting" a connection. If I ever run out, I'll consider moving the TiVo HD to component. I'll leave both connected for future testing. Plenty of inputs on the D2.


Hope this helps someone....


----------



## Bob Pariseau

TW,

When you set fixed resolution output, there is no new HDMI handshake needed upon changing channels. That's why you aren't losing audio.


When you set native resolution output, a new HDMI handshake is needed each time the output resolution changes. Apparently there is some hiccup with your box where it doesn't activate the HDMI audio early enough for the D2 to pick up on it. I suspect it is activating the video and then activating the audio and the D2 isn't recognizing that the second handshake is necessary. When you change away and back, this forces a new handshake, and now the audio is already there.


It is also possible that your Tivo is mistakenly deciding the D2 is a DVI device (no audio over the HDMI cable). If so, it would also be sending RGB to the D2 instead of YCbCr as it should. You can check this in the D2's Video Source Adjust / Info panel at any time where you are seeing video but hearing no audio. Doing a new handshake could also correct this.


With my Comcast box I use HDMI for video and optical cable for audio because the Comcast also handles HDMI audio startup poorly.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12095914
> 
> 
> TW,
> 
> When you set fixed resolution output, there is no new HDMI handshake needed upon changing channels. That's why you aren't losing audio.
> 
> 
> When you set native resolution output, a new HDMI handshake is needed each time the output resolution changes. Apparently there is some hiccup with your box where it doesn't activate the HDMI audio early enough for the D2 to pick up on it. I suspect it is activating the video and then activating the audio and the D2 isn't recognizing that the second handshake is necessary. When you change away and back, this forces a new handshake, and now the audio is already there.
> 
> 
> It is also possible that your Tivo is mistakenly deciding the D2 is a DVI device (no audio over the HDMI cable). If so, it would also be sending RGB to the D2 instead of YCbCr as it should. You can check this in the D2's Video Source Adjust / Info panel at any time where you are seeing video but hearing no audio. Doing a new handshake could also correct this.
> 
> 
> With my Comcast box I use HDMI for video and optical cable for audio because the Comcast also handles HDMI audio startup poorly.
> 
> --Bob



That's right, Bob. It all makes sense. The next time I do testing and notice a loss of audio on HDMI, I'll check the D2 info screen.


One additional benefit of keeping the Fixed 1080i output... when watching 1080i native sources, I get the native resolution (most of my HD watching) and, when the stupid broadcast stations air commercials or decide in the middle of a show to switch their transmission signal to 480i, the D2 doesn't have to do an HDMI handshake and I lose the audio/video for those 3-4 seconds. Sure, I could use Digital audio oupt as you do, but I'd still lose video. Just another annoyance avoided.











EDIT: WOW, look at that, my 300th post! Perhaps it's time for me to revert to lurker mode as I have done so well the past 6 years.


----------



## benleeys

Sorry to barge in, but would some kind soul like to clue me in on how to bypass the video processing functions in the D2 for 480p component connections. I just wish to use the D2 as a switcher. Or is this not possible?


I tried setting the SETUP/SCALER INPUT to 'none', and the COMPONENT VIDEO IN to '3' (that's the connection), but ended up with a blank screen.


Some say the Silicon Optix HQV chip in the Denon 5910 performs as good or even better than the Gennum VXP chip used by the D2, so I just wish to do an AB comparision to see for myself.


Appreciate your advice.


Ben


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12098157
> 
> 
> Some say the Silicon Optix HQV chip in the Denon 5910 performs as good or even better than the Gennum VXP chip used by the D2, so I just wish to do an AB comparision to see for myself.
> 
> 
> Appreciate your advice.
> 
> 
> Ben



In THEORY, there is no difference.

In PRACTICE, there is - due to implementations.


The real difference is in whether the product designers allowed access to the power of the chip. I've not heard that the Denon is great in that regard.


A classic example is the JVC RS1. It has a Gennum chip inside, but (currently) does not expose more than a fraction of the power to users.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/12101857
> 
> 
> In THEORY, there is no difference.
> 
> In PRACTICE, there is - due to implementations.
> 
> 
> The real difference is in whether the product designers allowed access to the power of the chip. I've not heard that the Denon is great in that regard.
> 
> 
> A classic example is the JVC RS1. It has a Gennum chip inside, but (currently) does not expose more than a fraction of the power to users.



I agree.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12095792
> 
> 
> After much viewing in changing sources on the TiVo HD to display 480i, 720p and 1080i I have concluded I actually prefer the Fixed 1080i output from the TiVo HD over the Native res output. So, in my setup, I will stick with HDMI connection from the TiVo HD to the D2 and stick with Fixed 1080i.



I use component... on DVRs.... of course, but on Tivo S3 or TivoHD the better mode than fixed 1080i is Hybrid 1080i (for me). It avoids the 720p blackouts and still lets the anthem do the scaling on the 480 Standard Def stuff, which is even better on channels like SciFi which do lots of letterboxed SD. (That's one channel that can't go HD fast enough).


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/12101857
> 
> 
> In THEORY, there is no difference.
> 
> In PRACTICE, there is - due to implementations.
> 
> 
> The real difference is in whether the product designers allowed access to the power of the chip. I've not heard that the Denon is great in that regard.
> 
> 
> A classic example is the JVC RS1. It has a Gennum chip inside, but (currently) does not expose more than a fraction of the power to users.



It's true what you said - implementation is the key. That's why I want to AB and see for myself.


If I am not wrong, Kris Deering, in his review, seemed to have a rather high regard for the Denon 5910 results.


But I can't seem to do a video bypass with the D2 even though, from the manual, it should be able to do so. Would appreciate if someone can confirm whether it can or can't be done?


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ben,

Run a second set of Component cables from the "Main or Zone 2" Component outputs of the Anthem to a second Component input on your TV.


In the Anthem's Setup / Source Setup for your 480p Component source, specify the Component input jack set you are using on the Anthem for that source both in Scaler Input and in Component Video In.


In Setup / Video Output, specify Component 2 Out = MAIN UNPROCESSED. This makes the Zone 2 output track your Main source selection, but the video input sent to the Zone 2 output is simply switched to Zone 2 without being processed. Meanwhile that same input is processed for the Main Component output.


Select the Component source on the Anthem's Main path.


-----------------------------------------


Now:


Select the Component input on your TV which is connected to the Main Component output of the Anthem.


Calibrate video for the video path of Component source through Anthem Main path (processed) through TV, following the procedures detailed in the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post linked in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.


Alternatively, select the Component input on your TV which is connected to the Zone 2 Component output of the Anthem.


Calibrate video for the video path of Component source through Anthem Main->Zone 2 (UNPROCESSED) through TV. Please note, the best calibration will likely be different for the two paths. Also note that the various video adjustments in the Anthem will have no effect on the video going to the Zone 2 path since that video is merely switched, UNPROCESSED to the output. So calibration will need to be done via the TV's controls alone. If your TV does not remember separate settings for the two Component inputs, then be sure to record the "best" settings for each path so that you can switch them back and forth while doing your A/B comparison.


Compare by A/B selection of which input you choose on the TV while the source is playing through the Anthem Main path (processed) and Main->Zone 2 path (unprocessed) simultaneously.


------------------------------------------


Please note that for best comparison, your Component source should be sending 480i to the Anthem (not 480p) so that the Anthem is also doing the de-interlacing for that source content, and that the correct video calibration for 480i input and 480p input into the Anthem may very well be different just as would be the case for 480i vs. 480p input into your TV itself.


Comparing 480p input processed vs. unprocessed through the Anthem is a useful test, but it bypasses the exceptional de-interlacing circuit in the Anthem.


If your TV can not accept Component 480i input for some reason, then do your A/B by also switching the source from 480i for the Main path to 480p for the Zone 2 path.


Also take careful note of the instructions in the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post (linked in the collection of links in the first post in this thread) about selecting the "correct" picture mode in your TV and in your source device (if it offers picture modes), and about turning off various "video enhancement features" in your TV and source device. Failure to do this can damage the image in ways the Anthem's de-interlacer and scaler can not correct -- which will mask the true value of the Anthem processing in your comparison.


------------------------------------------------------


If your comparison shows the processed video through the Anthem is lower quality than the unprocessed video, my recommendation would be that you revisit the video calibration steps. The de-interlacing and scaling in the Anthem is very good indeed, and at that quality level, with properly calibrated video, remaining artifacts should be very subtle or not visible at all.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12109994
> 
> 
> Ben,
> 
> Run a second set of Component cables from the "Main or Zone 2" Component outputs of the Anthem to a second Component input on your TV.
> 
> 
> In the Anthem's Setup / Source Setup for your 480p Component source, specify the Component input jack set you are using on the Anthem for that source both in Scaler Input and in Component Video In.
> 
> 
> In Setup / Video Output, specify Component 2 Out = MAIN UNPROCESSED. This makes the Zone 2 output track your Main source selection, but the video input sent to the Zone 2 output is simply switched to Zone 2 without being processed. Meanwhile that same input is processed for the Main Component output.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Many thanks, Bob, for the instructions. Quite a writeup there.


On reflection, guess I really didn't know what I was thinking. Of course there's no way of A/B-ing directly the Denon's 480p output against that of the Anthem. And there's no point in comparing 480i, is there?


My question should have simply been how to bypass the Anthem's processing function. And your answer would have been simply to connect the projector to Component 2 Out after setting it to 'Unprocessed'.


Silly me. My apologies.

Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12111583
> 
> 
> Many thanks, Bob, for the instructions. Quite a writeup there.
> 
> 
> On reflection, looks to me like it is not possible to AB directly the progressive output from the Denon against that of the Anthem since the Denon can only be set to output either 480i or 480p via component.
> 
> 
> Question - what do you think exactly Anthem means when Setup/Scaler Input is set to 'none'?. Doesn't this mean that the video signal will bypass the processing? I get a blank screen when set thus.
> 
> 
> Ben



As best I've been able to figure it out, Scaler Input = None simply means you don't want any video when this source -- perhaps an audio only source -- is selected on the Main path.


There is also a Video Source Adjust / Scale Out = Bypass setting which embeds the input source in the specified Video Output resolution. This too is different from passing the signal through unprocessed, but can be useful when setting up the geometry for your display.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

Lazy question.

The Samsung OTA Tuner DTBH260F should work ok with a D2 via hdmi right?


----------



## brewster201

Hi there received my D2 today and having fun setting everything up. I set the Panasonic upconvert dvd player to the lowest setting 480p so the D2 will upconvert to 1080i but when playing it shows only 480P output. How can I get 1080i ?

Sorry I'm on a learning curve.


Thanks

Bruce


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brewster201* /forum/post/12112737
> 
> 
> Hi there received my D2 today and having fun setting everything up. I set the Panasonic upconvert dvd player to the lowest setting 480p so the D2 will upconvert to 1080i but when playing it shows only 480P output. How can I get 1080i ?
> 
> Sorry I'm on a learning curve.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bruce



Check out the collection of links in the first post in this thread for tips. The "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post covers a lot of the basics of video setup.


You set the desired video output resolution of the D2 in Setup / Video Output. There are 2 video output configurations and you need to assign the one you want to use to each source device in Setup / Source Setup much like you get to choose between 2 speaker configurations.


There are a few restrictions to be aware of, basically arising from industry copy protection requirements.


How is the player hooked to your D2 -- HDMI or Component? How is the D2 connected to your TV -- HDMI or Component? Re-read the copy protection restrictions found in section 2.1 of the manual.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12103701
> 
> 
> I use component... on DVRs.... of course, but on Tivo S3 or TivoHD the better mode than fixed 1080i is Hybrid 1080i (for me). It avoids the 720p blackouts and still lets the anthem do the scaling on the 480 Standard Def stuff, which is even better on channels like SciFi which do lots of letterboxed SD. (That's one channel that can't go HD fast enough).



I've never tried Hybrid 1080i. I may try that later this weekend. Thanks.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12113405
> 
> 
> I've never tried Hybrid 1080i. I may try that later this weekend. Thanks.



From one Tim to another, it's worth a shot


----------



## brewster201

Hi Bob I'm using Hdmi from the Dvd player and to the tv. Resolution is set at 1280x 720p/60 with data at ycbr4:2:2


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/12112304
> 
> 
> Lazy question.
> 
> The Samsung OTA Tuner DTBH260F should work ok with a D2 via hdmi right?



I'ts working fine with my D2 via HDMI!


----------



## abc999

Levesque is so quiet, might he be BETA TESTING the new room correction feature?


Alvin


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/12113996
> 
> 
> I'ts working fine with my D2 via HDMI!



Thanks Gordon!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brewster201* /forum/post/12113817
> 
> 
> Hi Bob I'm using Hdmi from the Dvd player and to the tv. Resolution is set at 1280x 720p/60 with data at ycbr4:2:2



OK, so I'm not sure what your problem is. What makes you think your TV is getting only 480p?


While viewing the DVD player through the Anthem, hold down the "7" key on the Anthem remote until the Video Source Adjust menu pops up. Then scroll right to the Info panel. That will tell you what is being input and output for video.


Also be sure your TV is set to use the input coming from the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## brewster201

The dvd can upscale to 1080i and I have selected 480p to use the D2. The onscreen shows 480P input and 720P output. The tv is a 50" panny 9UK with the Hdmi card. I checked the tv menu and there is no adjustment that I could see and assuming a 1080i default.


Bruce


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brewster201* /forum/post/12115270
> 
> 
> The dvd can upscale to 1080i and I have selected 480p to use the D2. The onscreen shows 480P input and 720P output. The tv is a 50" panny 9UK with the Hdmi card. I checked the tv menu and there is no adjustment that I could see and assuming a 1080i default.
> 
> 
> Bruce



OK, you may have a fundamental misunderstanding of what's involved here.


The content on a standard DVD is 480i. That can be "de-interlaced" to 480p and then scaled to a different video resolution by extrapolating the extra pixels.


There is no point in raising the resolution beyond the "native" resolution of your TV -- i.e., the resolution which matches the physical pixel matrix of your TV.


If your TV is a 720p TV, then what you want to do is to send 480i from the standard DVD player to the Anthem, and then let the Anthem de-interlace that and raise that to the 720p resolution of your TV.


If you tell the Anthem to send 1080p to your TV (presuming your TV will even accept that) then the TV will have to scale that video AGAIN back down to its native resolution of 720p. It has no choice. The physical pixel matrix of the TV defines what the video signal has to be converted to before the TV can light up.


If you tell the Anthem to send 1080i to your TV (a standard HDTV resolution) then the Anthem will de-interlace the 480i input to 480p, scale it up to 1080p, and then RE-interlace it to 1080i. Meanwhile your TV will receive that 1080i input and de-interlace it up to 1080p, and then scale it back down to its native 720p. Each of those extra processing steps can produce a reduction in image quality.


Note that the TV has ITS OWN ability to de-interlace and up or down-scale video. It's just that the D2 does it better, so you want to set things up so that the D2 does all the hard work.


So if the native resolution of your TV is 720p you don't really WANT the upscaling DVD player, or your new D2, to send 1080i to it.


NOTE: Many "720p" TVs actually have a native resolution which is near 1280x720p but not exactly that number. For example, you might find that a so-called 720p plasma TV actually has a "native" resolution of 1366x768p. Check the manual for your TV. The D2 can accommodate such requirements.


----------------------------


Standard definition TV is also 480i when it arrives at your house. HDTV is either 720p or 1080i when it arrives at your house. You want to set things up so that the Anthem is handed that video unmodified. The Anthem will then adjust that video to the same, "native" video resolution described above which is ideal for your TV.

--Bob


----------



## brewster201

Bob thanks for the great explanation


Bruce


----------



## ravichopra

I originally posted this in the broader forum, but it was recommended I post it here. Hoping someone can help...


I just picked up an AVM 50 and have immediately run into a funny (OK, annoying) problem. I have e-mail out to Anthem tech support, but was hoping someone here might have some thoughts as it's the weekend.


Problem summary: All processed 1080i/60 output from the AVM 50 via component video shifts up and down at high frequency so it looks like the picture is jiggling vertically. It's most noticeable with text and menus, but is clearly apparent throughout the picture if you look closely. It occurs with both source video as well as with the AVM's own menus. This does not occur with processed 480i or 480p video output, nor does it occur with non-processed video.


My setup: S3 TiVo, X-Box, and Denon DVD-2900 connected via component, Toshiba VCR connected via S-Video. AVM 50 connected to Pioneer Elite 510 CRT RPTV via component. AVM 50 is set to 1080i/60 - the screen's native HD resolution.


The diagnostic process was long, so here's a summary of my findings.

- All sources connected directly to TV - no jiggling regardless of resolution.

- Sources connected through AVM 50 to TV via component out 2 with processing turned off for that output - no jiggling regardless of resolution.

- Sources connected through AVM 50 to TV via component out 1 (with processing), output set to 480p - no jiggling.

- Sources connected through AVM 50 to TV via component out 1, output set to 1080i/60. Jiggling with TiVO, X-Box, and VCR, including jiggling of AVM menus. No jiggling with DVD player (presumably because output is limited to 480p via component - this was actually my first diagnostic clue).


As a side note, the AVM 50 seems to have some trouble locking onto channels when there is a resolution change (eg flipping through channels and going from SD to HD with the S3 TiVO set to native output). Sometimes I'm staring at a blue screen for 5-10 secs before it locks in, sometimes it doesn't appear to lock in at all and I have to flip channels a couple times to get it to lock.


Any thoughts or help you can provide here would be GREATLY appreciated. This Pre-Pro has the "dream" functionality on paper that I've been looking for for years. The reality has been a bit of a frustrating disappointment.


My thanks in advance.

-Ravi Chopra


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/12118241
> 
> 
> I originally posted this in the broader forum, but it was recommended I post it here. Hoping someone can help...
> 
> 
> I just picked up an AVM 50 and have immediately run into a funny (OK, annoying) problem. I have e-mail out to Anthem tech support, but was hoping someone here might have some thoughts as it's the weekend.
> 
> 
> Problem summary: All processed 1080i/60 output from the AVM 50 via component video shifts up and down at high frequency so it looks like the picture is jiggling vertically. It's most noticeable with text and menus, but is clearly apparent throughout the picture if you look closely. It occurs with both source video as well as with the AVM's own menus. This does not occur with processed 480i or 480p video output, nor does it occur with non-processed video.
> 
> 
> My setup: S3 TiVo, X-Box, and Denon DVD-2900 connected via component, Toshiba VCR connected via S-Video. AVM 50 connected to Pioneer Elite 510 CRT RPTV via component. AVM 50 is set to 1080i/60 - the screen's native HD resolution.
> 
> 
> The diagnostic process was long, so here's a summary of my findings.
> 
> - All sources connected directly to TV - no jiggling regardless of resolution.
> 
> - Sources connected through AVM 50 to TV via component out 2 with processing turned off for that output - no jiggling regardless of resolution.
> 
> - Sources connected through AVM 50 to TV via component out 1 (with processing), output set to 480p - no jiggling.
> 
> - Sources connected through AVM 50 to TV via component out 1, output set to 1080i/60. Jiggling with TiVO, X-Box, and VCR, including jiggling of AVM menus. No jiggling with DVD player (presumably because output is limited to 480p via component - this was actually my first diagnostic clue).
> 
> 
> As a side note, the AVM 50 seems to have some trouble locking onto channels when there is a resolution change (eg flipping through channels and going from SD to HD with the S3 TiVO set to native output). Sometimes I'm staring at a blue screen for 5-10 secs before it locks in, sometimes it doesn't appear to lock in at all and I have to flip channels a couple times to get it to lock.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts or help you can provide here would be GREATLY appreciated. This Pre-Pro has the "dream" functionality on paper that I've been looking for for years. The reality has been a bit of a frustrating disappointment.
> 
> 
> My thanks in advance.
> 
> -Ravi Chopra




What version of firmware is the AVM50 running? Press the Status button on the front of the unit to see the version. There were several component output bugs that affected various versions of the software. Upgrading he firmware may fix your problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ravi,

We need to know what version of software is running on your AVM-50. Since it is new, I'm going to presume you have the V1.2 software. But if that is not correct please tell us, since you may just need a firmware upgrade from Anthem.


To find the version number, press Select once on the remote. The version will appear in the status info displayed.


If you need new software, DO NOT download and install the version on the Anthem web site. Call or email Anthem tech support and they will email you the version you need.


------------------------------------------


Presuming you have that software (or newer), the next steps are:


* There are TWO Setup / Video Output configurations in that software. You must assign the one you want to use to each source device in Setup / Source Setup just as you can assign either of the two speaker configurations.


* Select as input each source device in turn. Press and hold the "7" key on the remote until the Video Source Adjust menu pops up. Scroll right to the Scale Out panel. Make sure you are NOT using the "ZOOM" option. You should be using "Anamorphic" or "Letter/Pillar Box" for normal viewing. Then scroll further right to the Output panel and scroll down to the Frame Lock item. Make sure that Frame Lock = OFF is set. Check these for EACH input device.


* In Setup / Video Output, check that Preferred = Component is set.


I presume that what you are reporting is not the "normal" interlaced video flicker of fine horizontal lines that you would see since you are using a CRT based TV.


If none of these checks yields a solution, then I think you are going to have to work this with Anthem tech support. Your unit may need hardware service.

--Bob


----------



## ravichopra

Bob:


Thanks very much for the thoughts. Unfortunately, it looks like I'm going to have to get help from Anthem.


Firmware version is 1.21

The second video setting is set to replicate the first.

I do have it set to component for all inputs but the VCR (which is S-Video).

All inputs are set to Anamorphic and Frame lock off.

You're right in that no way is this interlaced flicker. It is a visible vertical shaking of the image that goes far beyond a pixel. The difference between processed and non-processed images is night-and-day. Also, the processed 480p looks gorgeous, so something at least is working.


Hopefully Anthem will be able to help me out with this.


-Ravi


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/12118780
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks very much for the thoughts. Unfortunately, it looks like I'm going to have to get help from Anthem.
> 
> 
> Firmware version is 1.21
> 
> The second video setting is set to replicate the first.
> 
> I do have it set to component for all inputs but the VCR (which is S-Video).
> 
> All inputs are set to Anamorphic and Frame lock off.
> 
> You're right in that no way is this interlaced flicker. It is a visible vertical shaking of the image that goes far beyond a pixel. The difference between processed and non-processed images is night-and-day. Also, the processed 480p looks gorgeous, so something at least is working.
> 
> 
> Hopefully Anthem will be able to help me out with this.
> 
> 
> -Ravi



It certainly sounds like you have a hardware fault, but try the following just in case it is a corrupted setting.


* Go to Setup / Video Output. Write down your desired Video Output settings for 1080i/60 etc., so that you have them handy for the test we are about to do.


* Go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings.


* Save User Settings. You can Load Saved User Settings later to recover from what we are going to do next.


* Reload Factory Defaults. (You may lose video at this point but you can continue using the Front Panel display).


* Back out of the Setup menu entirely.


* Power off the Anthem using the remote control, then also power off the switch on the back panel. Wait a few seconds.


* Power on the Anthem with the back panel switch, and then with the remote.


* Go to Setup / Video Output -- again, if you don't have video at this point you can do this just using the Front Panel.


* MANUALLY re-enter your 1080i Setup / Video Output settings as previously written down.


* Back out of the Video Output menu and "Accept" the changes. You should now have video again.


* Is the Setup menu image "stable" or is it jumping?


* Back out of the Setup menu. Remember that your inputs are now all at their Factory Default settings. Select an Input that has no video source feeding it. Press and hold the "7" key to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. Is that menu "stable" or jumping?


* Scroll right to the Patterns panel and then down and select any of the test patterns. Is it "stable" or jumping?


These two menus and the test patterns are internally generated by the Anthem independent of any input source. If you can't get them stable then there is something wrong with the video output circuit of the Anthem. If they ARE stable, try manually re-entering the Setup / Source Input for any of your Component input devices and see if you can now get stable 1080i output to your TV.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ravi,

If you have jumpy AVM menus in the previous test, there is one other thing I'd like you to try. I want to eliminate the possibility that you have "ground loop" power traveling through your system and interfering with the TV's ability to lock on to the Component video signal properly.


"Ground loop" power is electrical interference -- usually 60Hz wall power -- that travels between the boxes in your system along the shields of the cables connecting them.


To eliminate this as a possibility, you need to disconnect everything. I realize this is a nuisance, but there's not much else you can do until you hear back from Anthem anyway.


So do this:


* Power everything off.


* Disconnect EVERYTHING from the AVM-50 except for its power cord and the 3-cable Component video connection to the TV.


* Disconnect EVERYTHING from the TV except for its power cord and the 3-cable Component video connection from the AVM-50.


* Power on the TV and AVM-50 and see if you can get a stable image of the AVM-50's internally generated menus and test patterns at 1080i.


If that image is stable, then, step by step, reconnect things until you see when the problem returns. The most common source of "ground loop" interference is the cable or satellite TV feed wire coming out of the wall and into your system. Remember, ANY electrical connections between devices offers a path for "ground loop" interference to hop from one box to the next.


If that image is NOT stable, then, before you put things back, try a different set of Component cables between the AVM-50 and your TV. A bad cable is unlikely to cause the problem you are reporting, but you might as well eliminate that as even a small possibility.

--Bob


----------



## ravichopra

Bob,


I can't thank you enough for all the time you've spent trying to help me through this problem. We've certainly eliminated a LOT of possible problems in my system. Unfortunately, my picture still has the vertical shakes when the AVM is putting out 1080i/60 through it's internal processor.


I first tried resetting factory defaults as you suggested. I wish I'd thought of this myself as my hope had been that the problem was driven by some funny setting that had been left in it. Unfortunately, once the output was set to 1080i/60, the shaking picture came right back.


I then set to work on eliminating ground loop as a possible issue. I was 99% certain this wasn't the problem since I had no image problems once I switched the unit to component out 2 and bypassed the video processor. Still, my home does have a ground loop I've been struggling with which manifests as a nasty hum until I put a cheater plug in place on my amp's plug (once I get my balanced interconnects, I'm hoping this will be a thing of the past). As a result, I figured it was worth trying. I pulled everything from the back of the Anthem apart from the components connecting the AVM to the TV and the power plug. The component cables were the only thing connected to the TV anyhow, so no need for change there. Turned the TV and Anthem back on, brought up the setup menu aaaaand.....


shaking menus. Sigh.


I've got custom-length Audioquest interconnects between Anthem & TV and have never had this problem with them in place before (or now when I run them direct between the TV and source components), so they can't be the issue.


I fear this AVM 50 is going to be taking a trip back to the factory for repairs.


Wish me luck tomorrow when I should be hearing back from Anthem.


Thanks again for all the help.

-Ravi Chopra


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/12119934
> 
> 
> Wish me luck tomorrow when I should be hearing back from Anthem.
> 
> 
> -Ravi Chopra



My only helpful suggestion is don't depend

on any e-mail triggering Anthem Tech Support.


PICK up the phone on MONDAY and CALL THEM.


That always get immediate action.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well Ravi, that's what we were afraid of. Be sure to tell Anthem that you can reproduce the problem using only the AVM-50's internally generated video and with nothing else connected, and after doing a Reload Factory Settings.


It could be as simple as a cable jarred loose during shipping. Perhaps Anthem tech support will give you or the dealer instructions to open the unit up to check that (do not try this on your own without instruction from them). If not, perhaps they can arrange a swap out for you, so that you can continue to use the broken unit at 480p until the replacement unit arrives.


By the way, I've been assuming that you are using this in a US-market configuration (60Hz wall power, 1080i/60 vs. 1080i/50 video, NTSC vs. PAL). If that's not correct then there may be a few additional things to try although this is pretty much grasping at straws.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

I've got my D1 in a box ready to take to Anthem to have it upgraded (I'll finally get those bouncy mascot guys ohboyohboyohboy) and have a couple of questions:


Anyone know if the latest batch of D2/upgraded D1 have the Gennum 9351 chip as opposed to the 9350 original chip?


I've looked through the first dozen pages again looking for info on that hdmi "stub" that people plug into the Anthem and then plug the hdmi cable into the "stub" but I can't find it. Could someone PLEASE tell me where the info is so I don't have to go through all those pages again?!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No, the Anthem video boards have not changed which Gennum chip they are using.


----------------------------


Search for "HDMI savers" or "HDMI port savers".


Here's a version from Monoprice 


--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

Thanks Bob


----------



## PaulT_BC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/12122225
> 
> 
> I've looked through the first dozen pages again looking for info on that hdmi "stub" that people plug into the Anthem and then plug the hdmi cable into the "stub" but I can't find it. Could someone PLEASE tell me where the info is so I don't have to go through all those pages again?!



Port Savers from monoprice.


Buy a bag full of them









http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...ormat=2&style=


----------



## wabbit636

about to order my D2 and have a few questions....


My DVD can output 480i over component so I am good to go with it BUT what about HD DVD & Blu-Ray players???? Do these have the possibility to output 480i to the Anthem??? Those with HD players what are you outputting?


Do you also see an improvement in picture quality with the D2 doing the scaling for the TV and standard def dvd players?


Thank you for the replies.....


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12127673
> 
> 
> about to order my D2 and have a few questions....
> 
> 
> My DVD can output 480i over component so I am good to go with it BUT what about HD DVD & Blu-Ray players???? Do these have the possibility to output 480i to the Anthem??? Those with HD players what are you outputting?
> 
> 
> Do you also see an improvement in picture quality with the D2 doing the scaling for the TV and standard def dvd players?
> 
> 
> Thank you for the replies.....



You shouldn't have a problem getting 480i from component output. Most or all will do this. 480i from hdmi is another matter. Right now, only blue-ray will do that.


Some will say with the Reon chip (i.e. xa2, upcoming Samsung udp5000) you don't need 480i out but that's debatable and obviously depends on the quality of your VP.


To answer your last question: YES YES YES I do.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm a big believer in letting the D2 do both the de-interlacing and scaling of SDTV and standard DVDs. It does a fantastic job.


At least in the case of the Motorola made set-top boxes (commonly used for cable and FIOS-TV), I would NOT recommend letting your set-top box output 480p or higher for SDTV viewing. Their de-interlacing and scaling solutions are not good at all. Send 480i to the D2.


However, we have had some reports here that some of the new HD-DVD and Blu-Ray players do a very good job indeed of de-interlacing and scaling standard DVDs. You can try it yourself and see if you see a difference. Be sure to calibrate the video settings each way before you try to compare the video. If you want to try them that way, connect them via HDMI to the D2 and send 1080i/60, or even better 1080p/60, to the D2. Note that you MUST use HDMI to do this for standard DVDs due to industry copy protection restrictions on Component output for standard DVD playback from such players.


Also be aware that if you use such a player to play SACD or DVD-Audio discs over HDMI, you must set the HDMI video output resolution of the player to 720p or higher while doing that or you will lose some of the audio bandwidth due to the way HDMI audio is embedded in the video signal.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12122495
> 
> 
> No, the Anthem video boards have not changed which Gennum chip they are using.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Just fyi, I received an email from Anthem saying that they are using the 9351 now. My D1 will be going in for the upgrade soon so fire up the incubator, I'll be needing some bouncy mascot goodness soon!


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/12129886
> 
> 
> Just fyi, I received an email from Anthem saying that they are using the 9351 now. My D1 will be going in for the upgrade soon so fire up the incubator, I'll be needing some bouncy mascot goodness soon!




Thanks for the replies.


Is the 9351 a new chip??? What is the prvious chip?


If so, then I will try to ensure mine has it instead of buying the older chip.


Thanks


----------



## wabbit636

another question:


Is there a way to distinguish which chip model the particular D2 has inside??


Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12130089
> 
> 
> Thanks for the replies.
> 
> 
> Is the 9351 a new chip??? What is the prvious chip?
> 
> 
> If so, then I will try to ensure mine has it instead of buying the older chip.
> 
> 
> Thanks



The ONE and ONLY difference between the 9350

and 9351 is Power Dissipation. The 9351 runs

cooler.


----------



## wabbit636

Thanks for the reply.....does the D2 run hot compared to other processors?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/12129886
> 
> 
> Just fyi, I received an email from Anthem saying that they are using the 9351 now. My D1 will be going in for the upgrade soon so fire up the incubator, I'll be needing some bouncy mascot goodness soon!



Interesting! I wonder when they made that switch?

--Bob


----------



## wabbit636

Bob,


Are you the one that beta tested the D2 and are from the Montreal South Shore area?? Going off memory here......or was it Levesque??



Just wondering as I am also from the south shore


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That's probably LEVESQUE.


I don't do Beta testing of any Anthem stuff.

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12130305
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply.....does the D2 run hot compared to other processors?




I don't know about other processors, but the D2 will generate some heat. It needs to be accounted for as you plan your equipment layout.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> 480i from hdmi is another matter. Right now, only blue-ray will do that.



I don't know where you got that misinformation.

My A2 outputs 480i over HDMI and my D2 display says the input is 480i.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/12133461
> 
> 
> I don't know where you got that misinformation.
> 
> My A2 outputs 480i over HDMI and my D2 display says the input is 480i.



I thought most of the Toshiba's did, glad you said that. My A1 does not.


larry


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/12133461
> 
> 
> I don't know where you got that misinformation.
> 
> My A2 outputs 480i over HDMI and my D2 display says the input is 480i.



Sorry, did not know that. Interesting that neither the A1 nor the XA2 will do 480i over HDMI but the A2 will. That makes the A2 a real contender for those with VP's especially since it's so reasonably priced. Even better if it has a "native" mode so you don't have to manually switch resolution from SD to HD.


----------



## wabbit636

Before taking the plunge for my D2 this week I am wondering how long the video capabilities of the D2 will be better then what is currently available considering new HD players like the highly awaited BD-UP5000 Universal Player from Samsung are coming out. When this player comes out would I esentially have 2 good scalers and the premium for the D2 would essentially be not worth it??


When the D2 came out those that got it from the start have got their moneys worth out of it but now with new HD players it is still worth it to invest in the D2?


If these new HD players have very good scalers then I am wondering if an AVM 40 is the best bet and with the money I saved it would pay for the BD-UP5000 Universal Player from Samsung.


Thank you for helping make the best decision. As you know the D2 isn't cheap so I want to make sure I will make good usage of it!


----------



## rudolpht

I think you could buy a few (or more) UP5000s with the difference


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12137002
> 
> 
> Before taking the plunge for my D2 this week I am wondering how long the video capabilities of the D2 will be better then what is currently available considering new HD players like the highly awaited BD-UP5000 Universal Player from Samsung are coming out. When this player comes out would I esentially have 2 good scalers and the premium for the D2 would essentially be not worth it??
> 
> 
> When the D2 came out those that got it from the start have got their moneys worth out of it but now with new HD players it is still worth it to invest in the D2?
> 
> 
> If these new HD players have very good scalers then I am wondering if an AVM 40 is the best bet and with the money I saved it would pay for the BD-UP5000 Universal Player from Samsung.
> 
> 
> Thank you for helping make the best decision. As you know the D2 isn't cheap so I want to make sure I will make good usage of it!



Buying a player will still leave you in need of a great audio solution. The D2 fits that bill.


Buying a player will still leave you in need of a great video solution for your other video sources. The D2 fits that bill as well.


Even when playing discs, the player manufacturer is unlikely to expose the full power of the player's video solution to you. For example, you are unlikely to be able to customize the video stream to the degree the D2 can. This is particularly important to people whose display happens to have a native resolution which is not a "standard" HD resolution. Or people who need more exotic video calibration techniques, such as Gamma Correction, external to their display. And you won't be able to use the player's video processor to do things like 2.35:1 Constant Image Height projector applications.


It's apples vs. oranges really.

--Bob


----------



## wabbit636

thanks for the reply....


Has anyone actually heard or know how much difference there is audio wise between the AVM 50 and the D2?


Thanks


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12130396
> 
> 
> Interesting! I wonder when they made that switch?
> 
> --Bob



I thought I had read it here first a while ago, when people were having issues with overheating. My understanding is that the newer chip is on a smaller form factor (or something like that) and produces less heat.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12130178
> 
> 
> another question:
> 
> 
> Is there a way to distinguish which chip model the particular D2 has inside??
> 
> 
> Thanks



I believe that pink boards have the lower power dissipation chip. I haven't popped the hood on mine and am traveling this week so cannot check (and really don't want to pull it out of the rack just to do so even when I return). Anyone confirm?


----------



## Milt99

Glad I could actually be of some help here.

I hope I didn't come off as a wisenheimer because I'm not.

I've been too slack to buy a new hdmi cable for my 5910 and I did some re-viewing of SD DVD to see what they look like compared to HD.

FWIW, so far Sin City has been the best, really nice.

It's been a bit of an education to go back to upconverted SD.

When Oppo comes out with a HD player(I hope), it could be an ideal paring with the D2.



> Quote:
> Buying a player will still leave you in need of a great audio solution. The D2 fits that bill.
> 
> Buying a player will still leave you in need of a great video solution for your other video sources. The D2 fits that bill as well.
> 
> Even when playing discs, the player manufacturer is unlikely to expose the full power of the player's video solution to you. For example, you are unlikely to be able to customize the video stream to the degree the D2 can. This is particularly important to people whose display happens to have a native resolution which is not a "standard" HD resolution. Or people who need more exotic video calibration techniques, such as Gamma Correction, external to their display. And you won't be able to use the player's video processor to do things like 2.35:1 Constant Image Height projector applications.
> 
> 
> It's apples vs. oranges really.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, you are the man


----------



## ddimberio

Is it possible at all to bypass the Anthem's VP at all in the Main output path? Quite honestly, I am getting tired (mostly of my wife complaining to me) on the infamous blue screen she gets (and I) when flipping back and forth from SD to HD back to SD channels. When this occurs, I usually have to reboot at least once, usually 2 and 3 times, to get my display again. The display is a JVC DLA-RS1. I know this isn't an HDMI cable length issue...as this never occurs hooking the cable directly to sources. I am running FW 1.20. Some questions:


1) Should I make it easier on me and my wife, forget HDMI, and run components to the PJ for the main path?

2) Can the Anthem do HDMI switching plain and simple, no scaling?


This has driven me to seriously consider other A/V controller, processor alternatives. Namely ones that just are doing switching. The processor in the JVC isn't all that bad on it's own. Anyhow, as always, thanks for the great advice. - DD


----------



## TREVLAN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/12140045
> 
> 
> Is it possible at all to bypass the Anthem's VP at all in the Main output path? Quite honestly, I am getting tired (mostly of my wife complaining to me) on the infamous blue screen she gets (and I) when flipping back and forth from SD to HD back to SD channels. When this occurs, I usually have to reboot at least once, usually 2 and 3 times, to get my display again. The display is a JVC DLA-RS1. I know this isn't an HDMI cable length issue...as this never occurs hooking the cable directly to sources. I am running FW 1.20. Some questions:
> 
> 
> 1) Should I make it easier on me and my wife, forget HDMI, and run components to the PJ for the main path?
> 
> 2) Can the Anthem do HDMI switching plain and simple, no scaling?
> 
> 
> This has driven me to seriously consider other A/V controller, processor alternatives. Namely ones that just are doing switching. The processor in the JVC isn't all that bad on it's own. Anyhow, as always, thanks for the great advice. - DD



I posted this 6-7 pages back...doesn't seem to work for everyone but eh what do yuo have to lose.


This is what I did and I "NEVER" get the blue screen. I still get a small lag going from 720p cable to 1080i but blue sceeen be gone.

Go to the AVM50 setup

goto "#12 display"

then "D" main OS color

change this to "GREY"


Let me know if this works for you.

To be honest now that I have done this I never really notice how long the 1080i channels take to "load" just because the blue portion is gone.


give it a try if you wish.


Trev


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/12140045
> 
> 
> I am getting tired (mostly of my wife complaining to me) on the infamous blue screen she gets (and I) when flipping back and forth from SD to HD back to SD channels.



That is why it has been posted 100 times here.


Use Component instead of HDMI.


Of course our resident *GENERAL* will say Moto

Cable Boxes have poor Component output.


Not all of us use Moto Cable Boxes.


Another trick to speed things up is to set your

cable box to always output 1080i.


Of course our resident *GENERAL* will say the

D2 does a better job scaling up.


It is not the D2 causing the blue screen - it is part of the

HDMI standard that requires a new handshake every time

there is a channel resolution change.


----------



## cecaa850

Here's something I'm not sure of. I have my cable box hooked to my D2 via component and optical ala the good Dr. I have no blue screen or lag time when changing channels. My box is set to 1080i as I see a much better picture that way when watching HD channels. SD is another story. I'm sure the D2 would do a better job of upscaling than the cablebox but is there a way to get the box to output 480i on SD and 1080i on HD or am I stuck with one or the other?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/12140765
> 
> 
> Here's something I'm not sure of. I have my cable box hooked to my D2 via component and optical ala the good Dr. I have no blue screen or lag time when changing channels. My box is set to 1080i as I see a much better picture that way when watching HD channels. SD is another story. I'm sure the D2 would do a better job of upscaling than the cablebox but is there a way to get the box to output 480i on SD and 1080i on HD or am I stuck with one or the other?



I think it depends on who makes the BOX.


I have 5 SONY DVRs with Cable Cards. The Sonys

can do that. It is called native mode - something

you need to setup in the box.


I rarely watch SD TV channels - but when I do - I'm

happy with the way SONY Up-Converts the SD channels

to 1080i and then my D2 converts it to 1080P for my Ruby.


NOW I MUST ADMIT - If you are judging SD TV Commercials

for quality - they are the worst. I don't know why - but you

would think advertisers would put some quality into their

commercials or maybe it is because the networks insert the

commercials and they have been laying around on VHS tape

for years.


Also - if your SD TV channels are delivering poor quality

signals - nothing is going to help that. Comcast - here has

GOOD quality SD TV signals so the upconvert looks good.

It is NOT HD - but OK until February 2009 when everything

will switch over.


----------



## cecaa850

Thanks Doc. My SD channels look pretty crappy to me. I'll get out the manual tonight and see if there are any tweaks I can do in the cable box. HD looks spectacular however.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/12114269
> 
> 
> Levesque is so quiet, might he be BETA TESTING the new room correction feature?
> 
> 
> Alvin



LEVESQUE is quite busy these days on projects outside of it's the home theater field. As a result he spends less time on this forum.


----------



## budeone

I just installed 1.21d in my Anthem AVM-50. I have picture again in SAT. Its been 4-6 weeks since its worked correct.


I still cant get it to accept my saved settings. It brings in 50-75% of them but not all of them. I think I have everything back to normal.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/12140045
> 
> 
> Is it possible at all to bypass the Anthem's VP at all in the Main output path? Quite honestly, I am getting tired (mostly of my wife complaining to me) on the infamous blue screen she gets (and I) when flipping back and forth from SD to HD back to SD channels. When this occurs, I usually have to reboot at least once, usually 2 and 3 times, to get my display again. The display is a JVC DLA-RS1. I know this isn't an HDMI cable length issue...as this never occurs hooking the cable directly to sources. I am running FW 1.20. Some questions:
> 
> 
> 1) Should I make it easier on me and my wife, forget HDMI, and run components to the PJ for the main path?
> 
> 2) Can the Anthem do HDMI switching plain and simple, no scaling?
> 
> 
> This has driven me to seriously consider other A/V controller, processor alternatives. Namely ones that just are doing switching. The processor in the JVC isn't all that bad on it's own. Anyhow, as always, thanks for the great advice. - DD




I, too, got tired of the blue screens. Yes, changing the background to gray, or in version 1.21d there is a dedicated setup, video mute, which you can set to gray. This only masks the problem. You still lose video (and if you're using HDMI for audio, then you lose audio as well) for 3-4 seconds. There is nothing that can be done about this. When the input resolution changes on the D2, it must do a new handshake to reestablish the connection. It happens on component input as well.


The only way to eliminate this is to fix the input resolution. I have done this on my TiVo HD by setting it to Fixed 1080i. I experimented (recently) with Hybrid 1080i as well as Native. There are slight differences between all the settings in picture quality. But honestly, the SD stuff is so crappy anyway the best I could say is "this picture is less crappy than the other". But, they both suck, so, it wasn't worth it to me and I ultimately set on Fixed 1080i and I'm very happy. No lockup, no video/audio muting.


My display is the Epson Home Cinema 1080, input resolution from the D2, [email protected] 92" 16:9 screen.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12128856
> 
> 
> I'm a big believer in letting the D2 do both the de-interlacing and scaling of SDTV and standard DVDs. It does a fantastic job.
> 
> 
> At least in the case of the Motorola made set-top boxes (commonly used for cable and FIOS-TV), I would NOT recommend letting your set-top box output 480p or higher for SDTV viewing. Their de-interlacing and scaling solutions are not good at all. Send 480i to the D2.
> 
> 
> However, we have had some reports here that some of the new HD-DVD and Blu-Ray players do a very good job indeed of de-interlacing and scaling standard DVDs. You can try it yourself and see if you see a difference. Be sure to calibrate the video settings each way before you try to compare the video. If you want to try them that way, connect them via HDMI to the D2 and send 1080i/60, or even better 1080p/60, to the D2. Note that you MUST use HDMI to do this for standard DVDs due to industry copy protection restrictions on Component output for standard DVD playback from such players.
> 
> 
> Also be aware that if you use such a player to play SACD or DVD-Audio discs over HDMI, you must set the HDMI video output resolution of the player to 720p or higher while doing that or you will lose some of the audio bandwidth due to the way HDMI audio is embedded in the video signal.
> 
> --Bob



I am also using the D2 to perform the work. Meanwhile, on some of the old badly encoded DVDs with lots of noise I use the XA2 with the noise reduction feature turned on.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12137442
> 
> 
> thanks for the reply....
> 
> 
> Has anyone actually heard or know how much difference there is audio wise between the AVM 50 and the D2?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Not directly between the two but I upgraded from an AVM30 to the D2.


The difference in audio quality is significant.


Furthermore the D2 will provide you soon with Room EQ.


PS: I am the one located on the Montreal South Shore.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12140512
> 
> 
> That is why it has been posted 100 times here.
> 
> 
> Use Component instead of HDMI.
> 
> 
> Of course our resident *GENERAL* will say Moto
> 
> Cable Boxes have poor Component output.
> 
> 
> Not all of us use Moto Cable Boxes.
> 
> 
> Another trick to speed things up is to set your
> 
> cable box to always output 1080i.
> 
> 
> Of course our resident *GENERAL* will say the
> 
> D2 does a better job scaling up.
> 
> 
> It is not the D2 causing the blue screen - it is part of the
> 
> HDMI standard that requires a new handshake every time
> 
> there is a channel resolution change.




Dr,


This problem happens on both component and HDMI. Happens to me on S3 Tivo via trusty component inputs, so the simple fix is not a fix on this one. The 1080i always is a partial fix (or I use 1080 hybrid to at least avoid the 720p blue screen of death), but not a complete fix.


An option would be to bypass the scaling or the Anthem altogether. I had to reboot twice just to watch TV last night and get proper sync with projector. I usually have to reboot at least once a night depending on sources and channels switched. A stellar picture with poor ergonomics is not satisfactory. I put up with it only because I'm the sole operator with a bunch of MX950 macros and still I often have to leave the room, go the back room, power cycle etc. I should have a separate projectors with previews and cartoons running while it takes the obligatory 5-10 minutes for the "feature" or TV show to start.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/12141169
> 
> 
> I just installed 1.21d in my Anthem AVM-50. I have picture again in SAT. Its been 4-6 weeks since its worked correct.
> 
> 
> I still cant get it to accept my saved settings. It brings in 50-75% of them but not all of them. I think I have everything back to normal.



You are lucky because you haven't been hit by some of the component side effects from b to d. b is typically more stable, but not completely.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12142005
> 
> 
> Dr,
> 
> 
> This problem happens on both component and HDMI. Happens to me on S3 Tivo via trusty component inputs, so the simple fix is not a fix on this one. The 1080i always is a partial fix (or I use 1080 hybrid to at least avoid the 720p blue screen of death), but not a complete fix.



Tim


AGAIN - I don't think it is an ANTHEM Problem.


If it happens with both of your options on a S3.


I would say it is an S3 problem - because with

SONY DVRs - It DOES NOT HAPPEN on Component

--- ONLY with HDMI.


My D2 is over a YEAR old now and I have never

rebooted it YET.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12142005
> 
> 
> Happens to me on S3 Tivo



Tim


May I further suggest junking your S3 and getting

on eBay and BUYING a Sony DVR - Then your

problems will be HISTORY. NOT to mention getting

ride of your TiVo Fees.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12142353
> 
> 
> Tim
> 
> 
> AGAIN - I don't think it is an ANTHEM Problem.
> 
> 
> If it happens with both of your options on a S3.
> 
> 
> I would say it is an S3 problem - because with
> 
> SONY DVRs - It DOES NOT HAPPEN on Component
> 
> --- ONLY with HDMI.
> 
> 
> My D2 is over a YEAR old now and I have never
> 
> rebooted it YET.



Tim, I have to agree. I have the same problem... blanking on resolution changes from my TiVo HD on both HDMI and Component. The test would be... connect your TiVo directly to your display with both HDMI and then Component and see if you get the same blanking without the D2 in the path. My best is, you will. But, I can't easily test this. I don't know if your setup allows for this test.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12142417
> 
> 
> Tim, I have to agree. I have the same problem... blanking on resolution changes from my TiVo HD on both HDMI and Component. The test would be... connect your TiVo directly to your display with both HDMI and then Component and see if you get the same blanking without the D2 in the path. My best is, you will. But, I can't easily test this. I don't know if your setup allows for this test.



I have tried it on a 1080i "tube" set with no blanking. I cannot try it on my 1080p DVI projector as it only takes 1080p in. The whole reason to get the anthem was to have an integrated platform to get 1080p out to the projector (single standard resolution out) as the JVC scaler/deinterlacer that came with the projector was too limited (and too sold now).


Throwing away 2.5 years of prepaid Tivo fees is not an option either. Unfortunately out of the 4 DVD players (including Blu & HD), DVHS, Tivos, Laser, etc + good projector + Anthem and something has to go, it's the Anthem vs the Tivo that will go. The HTPC is already switched to the projector after the anthem as the workaround for that. I actually would like the sound of the new players to come into the system so further switching after the Anthem is not an option for those sources.


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/12141517
> 
> 
> Not directly between the two but I upgraded from an AVM30 to the D2.
> 
> 
> The difference in audio quality is significant.
> 
> 
> Furthermore the D2 will provide you soon with Room EQ.
> 
> 
> PS: I am the one located on the Montreal South Shore.



Thanks for the reply....I will be ordering my D2 this afternoon and will have it by weeks end!


As for the room eq, I have no use for it as I have the audyssey pro sound eq (stand alone unit) and its worth every penny! Highly recommended as its astonishing how room accoustics play a major factor in our room/systems.


Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12142980
> 
> 
> 
> Throwing away 2.5 years of prepaid Tivo fees is not an option either.



TiVo LOVES YOU


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12142980
> 
> 
> I have tried it on a 1080i "tube" set with no blanking. I cannot try it on my 1080p DVI projector as it only takes 1080p in. The whole reason to get the anthem was to have an integrated platform to get 1080p out to the projector (single standard resolution out) as the JVC scaler/deinterlacer that came with the projector was too limited (and too sold now).
> 
> 
> Throwing away 2.5 years of prepaid Tivo fees is not an option either. Unfortunately out of the 4 DVD players (including Blu & HD), DVHS, Tivos, Laser, etc + good projector + Anthem and something has to go, it's the Anthem vs the Tivo that will go. The HTPC is already switched to the projector after the anthem as the workaround for that. I actually would like the sound of the new players to come into the system so further switching after the Anthem is not an option for those sources.



Ah, gotcha. Yeah, I understand not wanthing to throw away the prepaid Tivo service... not being transferrable sucks. 


I don't remember... have you tried using Fixed 1080i/HDMI from your S3 and do you still have problems? I thought I remembered you were currently using Hybrid 1080i over Component.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12143069
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply....I will be ordering my D2 this afternoon and will have it by weeks end!
> 
> 
> As for the room eq, I have no use for it as I have the audyssey pro sound eq (stand alone unit) and its worth every penny! Highly recommended as its astonishing how room accoustics play a major factor in our room/systems.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Well I wouldn't throw in the towel just yet on the Anthem EQ. The Audyssey unit retails for $2500 and you have to have an authorized installer calibrate it or, if they're nice enough, sell you the install kit which is around $300. That $300 just so happens to be the projected price of the EQ upgrade for the D2.


An A/B comparison will be interesting. I also have the Audyssey.










One thing I don't like about it is that it uses standard RCA connectors. I'd much rather use the balanced XLR's. Rumor is Audyssey is coming out with an XLR version but that just means more money.


I guess we'll see.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12143069
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply....I will be ordering my D2 this afternoon and will have it by weeks end!
> 
> 
> As for the room eq, I have no use for it as I have the audyssey pro sound eq (stand alone unit) and its worth every penny! Highly recommended as its astonishing how room accoustics play a major factor in our room/systems.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Therefore you will be in good position to perform a comparison between the two solutions.


In my opinion there is a significant issue with using an external Room EQ such as the Audyssey. You add another component in the loop in the analogue domain. This is a real potential for audio degradation.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12143759
> 
> 
> Well I wouldn't throw in the towel just yet on the Anthem EQ. The Audyssey unit retails for $2500 and you have to have an authorized installer calibrate it or, if they're nice enough, sell you the install kit which is around $300. That $300 just so happens to be the projected price of the EQ upgrade for the D2.
> 
> 
> An A/B comparison will be interesting. I also have the Audyssey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I don't like about it is that it uses standard RCA connectors. I'd much rather use the balanced XLR's. Rumor is Audyssey is coming out with an XLR version but that just means more money.
> 
> 
> I guess we'll see.




The issue is not about the type of analogue connection, it is about the concept of adding an additional digital processing in an analogue loop. With a separate unit you are adding in the loop the following steps:


1) Analogue to digital conversion

2) Digital processing to perform the Room EQ

3) Digital to analogue conversion


This goes against all principle of good system design which is to perform all processing in the digital domain and than at the end of the processing you perform a digital to analogue conversion.


With the external box steps 1) and 3) are added and these steps are the most critical in terms of sound quality. No matter the quality of the ADC and DAC modules, there will be sound degradation. The concept is as sally as going out from a DVD player using analogue connection to have it digitalized by the Pre/Pro when just beside there is a digital connection available.


I am no criticizing the Audyssey technology here but the concept of an external box. The place of the Audyssey processing is in the Pre/Pro or the receiver, while the signal is still in the digital domain.


My opinion is what you gain with the ROOM EQ will not compensate at all for the degradation caused by the ADC and DAC conversions.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/12144138
> 
> 
> The issue is not about the type of analogue connection, it is about the concept of adding an additional digital processing in an analogue loop. With a separate unit you are adding in the loop the following steps:
> 
> 
> 1) Analogue to digital conversion
> 
> 2) Digital processing to perform the Room EQ
> 
> 3) Digital to analogue conversion
> 
> 
> This goes against all principle of good system design which is to perform all processing in the digital domain and than at the end of the processing you perform a digital to analogue conversion.
> 
> 
> With the external box steps 1) and 3) are added and these steps are the most critical in terms of sound quality. No matter the quality of the ADC and DAC modules, there will be sound degradation. The concept is as sally as going out from a DVD player using analogue connection to have it digitalized by the Pre/Pro when just beside there is a digital connection available.
> 
> 
> I am no criticizing the Audyssey technology here but the concept of an external box. The place of the Audyssey processing is in the Pre/Pro or the receiver, while the signal is still in the digital domain.
> 
> 
> My opinion is what you gain with the ROOM EQ will not compensate at all for the degradation caused by the ADC and DAC conversions.



What may be true in theory doesn't necessarily play out in real world tests. I have not noticed any degradation from the Audyssey and I don't think any of the professional reviews of this unit have mentioned any such issue. If someone has actually performed an objective side-by-side test then I think we'd all be interested in knowing results, the equipment used to measure such results etc....


Don't get me wrong, I understand what you're saying but not sure how to test or even quantify it in this particulat instance.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12143164
> 
> 
> TiVo LOVES YOU



Yes, unfortunately, they do (x2). I too have a basement full of orphaned equipment, but I am able to move these contracts along.


While I'm not opposed to assigning blame where it belongs (like me doing long term contracts), these do work well w/o the Anthem in the loop.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12145011
> 
> 
> Yes, unfortunately, they do (x2). I too have a basement full of orphaned equipment, but I am able to move these contracts along.
> 
> 
> While I'm not opposed to assigning blame where it belongs (like me doing long term contracts), these do work well w/o the Anthem in the loop.



There is just NO LOGICAL reason I can

understand why Component to the Anthem

has the same Blue Screen problems as

HDMI and they do not exist WITHOUT

the Anthem.


I seriously think NICK needs to explain

the BIG *WHY* to you - on the Phone.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12145011
> 
> 
> Yes, unfortunately, they do (x2). I too have a basement full of orphaned equipment, but I am able to move these contracts along.
> 
> 
> While I'm not opposed to assigning blame where it belongs (like me doing long term contracts), these do work well w/o the Anthem in the loop.



If these work correctly without the Anthem in the loop, then there is a problem with the Anthem. Get with Nick about a repair or explaination why it's not working. I've spoken to him on the phone and he's told me that whatever you see on the Anthem would be duplicated exactly without the anthem in the loop (that is in re to video syncronization). If you're seeing something different, perhaps there is a problem with your unit.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12145359
> 
> 
> If you're seeing something different, perhaps there is a problem with your unit.



ESPECIALLY True for Component. There is no handshake

going on there. Maybe the OTHER TIM is on the phone

now with Nick.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12144733
> 
> 
> What may be true in theory doesn't necessarily play out in real world tests. I have not noticed any degradation from the Audyssey and I don't think any of the professional reviews of this unit have mentioned any such issue. If someone has actually performed an objective side-by-side test then I think we'd all be interested in knowing results, the equipment used to measure such results etc....
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I understand what you're saying but not sure how to test or even quantify it in this particulat instance.



The best way to test this would be for you to get a sample pre/pro with the Audyssey in your setup. Try the system with only the Pre/Pro with internal Audyssey and then turn the Pre/pro Audyssey to off and add the Audyssey box in the loop.


This is the only test who could objectively test the effect on the additional double conversion.


----------



## ddimberio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12140512
> 
> 
> That is why it has been posted 100 times here.
> 
> 
> Use Component instead of HDMI.
> 
> 
> Of course our resident *GENERAL* will say Moto
> 
> Cable Boxes have poor Component output.
> 
> 
> Not all of us use Moto Cable Boxes.
> 
> 
> Another trick to speed things up is to set your
> 
> cable box to always output 1080i.
> 
> 
> Of course our resident *GENERAL* will say the
> 
> D2 does a better job scaling up.
> 
> 
> It is not the D2 causing the blue screen - it is part of the
> 
> HDMI standard that requires a new handshake every time
> 
> there is a channel resolution change.



Okay, okay. I will run component to the PJ and see if reliability improves.


----------



## DSNORD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12130178
> 
> 
> another question:
> 
> 
> Is there a way to distinguish which chip model the particular D2 has inside??
> 
> 
> Thanks



Jack Shafton from Anthem told me the 9351 is red so they can look through the cover of the unit to determine which chip is in place without having to open the unit up to read off the chip itself.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12145359
> 
> 
> If these work correctly without the Anthem in the loop, then there is a problem with the Anthem. Get with Nick about a repair or explaination why it's not working. I've spoken to him on the phone and he's told me that whatever you see on the Anthem would be duplicated exactly without the anthem in the loop (that is in re to video syncronization). If you're seeing something different, perhaps there is a problem with your unit.




Tim,


So you say that you have the exact same problems bypassing the Anthem? I find it hard to believe as the VAST majority of S3 owners have nothing like these delays.


I have discussed with Nick and he has explained that there is a complexity associated with various delays etc to best balance the different equipment configurations (which is why some betas work better than others, and the latest is acknowledged to exacerbate these issues). My situation is clearly NOT unique and I'm going to try a few different intermediate receivers to see if there are differences from that perspective.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12146973
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> 
> So you say that you have the exact same problems bypassing the Anthem? I find it hard to believe as the VAST majority of S3 owners have nothing like these delays.
> 
> 
> I have discussed with Nick and he has explained that there is a complexity associated with various delays etc to best balance the different equipment configurations (which is why some betas work better than others, and the latest is acknowledged to exacerbate these issues). My situation is clearly NOT unique and I'm going to try a few different intermediate receivers to see if there are differences from that perspective.



No. I have never tried to bypass the Anthem. Nick told me that if I *WERE* to bypass the Anthem, I should see the same exact problems. I have the cabling to test this with HDMI, but I don't think that's worth the effort as I believe this will exhibit the same problem due to the HDMI handshaking that must occur. What I don't know is if I would see the same video muting with Component directly to the projector. Unfortunately, I don't have the cabling to be able to test this, so I never have done so.


----------



## gdc

I have a TivoHD and a Samsung DTB-H260F, both connected via HDMI (sorry DrHankZ, it's only until I get a BD/HD-DVD player) to my D2.


I have both set to output native resolution, which means there is constant switching between resolutions as I change channels.


The Samsung switches pretty fast and with a minimum of fuss - usually 1/2 second and seldom a blue screen or garbled display while it's resyncing.


The TivoHD is about a second to switch, and I OFTEN get garbage as I switch.


Just another data point, but I think the Samsung has implemented it's handshaking far better than Tivo.


----------



## rudolpht

Gordon,


I don't know if a terrestrial tuner vs a cable box is the significant discriminator (although it would be an marginally interesting data point to know the tuner changes by component if there is a difference) but the larger question raised today as if I'm willing it not to work or incapable of getting it fixed if it's uniquely my unit (neither is true) is what is the same resolution switching side effects (not time for channels to change or lock signal) going direct to a display, ie not through the Anthem?


For example, my HTPC doesn't work through the Anthem, it works great direct to a display. S3 Tivo works great to a display but it lags switching on an Anthem. Actually I care least about display res lag, I do care about it losing lock and needing reboots, and I'm not unique in that category either.


----------



## gdc

Actually, I have OTA antenna going into both boxes (Samsung and Tivo). No cable at all. So the only differentiator is the boxes.


The odd thing is that I never have such bad resync problems that I have to reboot.


However - I've had the Samsung tuner lose power and shut down, and then I've unwittingly turned on the D2 with that as the last input. THEN I experience some weird stuff - completely garbled screen, no audio etc. I've had to go so far as to move the HDMI cable to another input and re-setup the tuner. It's as if once the HDMI chain goes south (even temporarily) the D2 gets stuck. Superficially, this might sound similar, except you also experience problems with component (IIRC).


These HDMI issues are really maddening, that's for sure. And I think it's mostly HDCP, although the HDMI connector is pretty bush league.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ddimberio* /forum/post/12140045
> 
> 
> Is it possible at all to bypass the Anthem's VP at all in the Main output path? Quite honestly, I am getting tired (mostly of my wife complaining to me) on the infamous blue screen she gets (and I) when flipping back and forth from SD to HD back to SD channels. When this occurs, I usually have to reboot at least once, usually 2 and 3 times, to get my display again. The display is a JVC DLA-RS1. I know this isn't an HDMI cable length issue...as this never occurs hooking the cable directly to sources. I am running FW 1.20. Some questions:
> 
> 
> 1) Should I make it easier on me and my wife, forget HDMI, and run components to the PJ for the main path?
> 
> 2) Can the Anthem do HDMI switching plain and simple, no scaling?
> 
> 
> This has driven me to seriously consider other A/V controller, processor alternatives. Namely ones that just are doing switching. The processor in the JVC isn't all that bad on it's own. Anyhow, as always, thanks for the great advice. - DD



Have you tried using component from your set top box to the Anthem? You'd also need to run coax/Toslink for the audio. That way you could stick with HDMI to the PJ, which if it's working for other sources (DVD etc.) is worth keeping.


I'm going there with my TivoHD box as I'm getting tired of it's slow and inconsistent resyncing performance via HDMI to the Anthem.


----------



## goenkar

How are the other HDMI receivers doing with HDMI resync issues ? Is it quite common in other units ? Is it because of the video processing in the Anthem ?


v1.21b fixed the issue I had with my Runco projector. It can now sync and display a picture. I was using a 1x2 HDMI splitter to make it work before. I still am using the splitter as I am sharing the PS3 with my son.


I was pleasantly surprised that Anthem fixed this problem as I had not followed up with them in months.


However, with my upstairs unit which is connected to a Hitachi TV with DVI, I have had some issues with blue screens after 1.21b. Its currently at 1.21d.


I decided to take the good Drs. advice and just use component from the cable box. I also make the cable box send out 1080i. The channels switches are fast now. My SD channels are mostly crap anyway.


I did see some wierdness even over component when I went from a HD channel to SD. This was using native resolution. I would get a blue screen with vertical white lines and the pre-amp would say 576i as the input resolution. I need some more time to determine if having the cable box send 1080i will fix this problem for good.


I do see a lot of flickering on the TV when the AVM powers up, something I have never seen before. Also, when I change channels it says "Powering Up" on the TV screen.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/12151974
> 
> 
> Also, when I change channels it says "Powering Up" on the TV screen.



Your experience is pretty consistent with mine, including switching after the Anthem to work better with some sources (unfortunate this is a necessary workaround). I don't get this message, though. Is it the Anthem banner message or a message from a source device?


Tim


----------



## dsm363

So is the consensus for the TiVo S3 (v. 9.2J) to Anthem D2 (with 1.21d):

Connect with component and set output on TiVo to 'native'?

I tried to fixed output on S3 to 1080i as I was getting audio dropouts on SD channels and it seems to work. Thanks.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsm363* /forum/post/12152593
> 
> 
> So is the consensus for the TiVo S3 (v. 9.2J) to Anthem D2 (with 1.21d):
> 
> Connect with component and set output on TiVo to 'native'?
> 
> I tried to fixed output on S3 to 1080i as I was getting audio dropouts on SD channels and it seems to work. Thanks.



I don't know if it's a consensus, but suggest component/optical audio/1080i HYBRID mode so you still get SD scaling/interlacing by the Anthem but not the BSOD of 720p res switching.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dsm363* /forum/post/12152593
> 
> 
> So is the consensus for the TiVo S3 (v. 9.2J) to Anthem D2 (with 1.21d):
> 
> Connect with component and set output on TiVo to 'native'?
> 
> I tried to fixed output on S3 to 1080i as I was getting audio dropouts on SD channels and it seems to work. Thanks.



I personally have my TiVo HD connected with HDMI and fixed 1080i output to the Anthem. I'm happy with this setup.


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12152221
> 
> 
> Your experience is pretty consistent with mine, including switching after the Anthem to work better with some sources (unfortunate this is a necessary workaround). I don't get this message, though. Is it the Anthem banner message or a message from a source device?
> 
> 
> Tim



Interestingly I am not seeing it today but it was the same message thats on the units display when starting up i.e "Anthem AVM50 Powering Up". This happened on channel changes.


I will experiment some more and see if I can recreate it, will report to Anthem if I do.


----------



## ravichopra

My original problem post:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post12118241 

And follow up:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post12118780 

And more follow up:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post12119934 


Since then:

Well, I finally got in touch with the tech support folks at Anthem. They thought it might be a firmware version issue. They sent me both an older version of the firmware as well as a newer one (apparently they've seen this before and going back to earlier firmware has helped in some instances). I tried both with no resolution to the problem. Sigh.


So, I decided to try a couple other things. First, I hooked the unit up to my 24" Dell LCD monitor (1920x1200 native resolution) via component. No video shaking!


I then hooked it up to my older Sharp 32" LCD HDTV (1366x768 native resolution). At 480p, no jitter. At 720p, no jitter (!). At 1080i/60, jittering menus, just like with my Pioneer Elite 510 CRT RPTV!


So where does this leave me? Who knows? After trying the Dell, I thought it must be some specific issue between the AVM 50 and my RPTV's internal processing. Once I hooked up the Sharp, though, the whole picture changed. Obviously the Anthem's 720p output agrees with the LCD TV's scaler, but 1080i bangs heads with the Sharp LCD in exactly the same way it interacts with my older Pioneer.


It's interesting to note that all scaling is clearly not an issue as my S3 TiVo scales to 1080i for the Pioneer with no problem, and HDTiVo scaling to 720p or 1080i is no problem for the Sharp LCD.


I'm hoping Anthem has a software fix for this as I'm not anxious to ship it out for a potentially lengthy fix.


Any thoughts, as always, are appreciated.


-Ravi Chopra


----------



## Ian_Currie

Noticed a couple bugs with latest firmware (although may not be specific to that version) that I'm hoping someone can confirm for me before I report it (and potentially waste any of Anthem's time):


1) The "Auto-LFE" option (per source) that determines whether the MOVIE or MUSIC speaker config is used always uses "MUSIC". Easy to test: set the MUSIC sub volume to -12 (under 'Speaker Calibration'), turn on the Auto-LFE, feed it a 5.1 source and listen for your sub....


2) Entering SETUP always ENABLES TONE CONTROL (or whatever it's called). I presume this is becaues merely touching any of the on-the-fly sound adjusment buttons turns it on (i.e. if it was previously disabled) and you have to hold down the Subwoofer button to enter Setup.


Thanks in advance to anyone who can confirm either of these.


Ian


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/12151974
> 
> 
> How are the other HDMI receivers doing with HDMI resync issues ? Is it quite common in other units ? Is it because of the video processing in the Anthem ?
> 
> 
> v1.21b fixed the issue I had with my Runco projector. It can now sync and display a picture. I was using a 1x2 HDMI splitter to make it work before. I still am using the splitter as I am sharing the PS3 with my son.
> 
> 
> I was pleasantly surprised that Anthem fixed this problem as I had not followed up with them in months.
> 
> 
> However, with my upstairs unit which is connected to a Hitachi TV with DVI, I have had some issues with blue screens after 1.21b. Its currently at 1.21d.
> 
> 
> I decided to take the good Drs. advice and just use component from the cable box. I also make the cable box send out 1080i. The channels switches are fast now. My SD channels are mostly crap anyway.
> 
> 
> I did see some wierdness even over component when I went from a HD channel to SD. This was using native resolution. I would get a blue screen with vertical white lines and the pre-amp would say 576i as the input resolution. I need some more time to determine if having the cable box send 1080i will fix this problem for good.
> 
> 
> I do see a lot of flickering on the TV when the AVM powers up, something I have never seen before. Also, when I change channels it says "Powering Up" on the TV screen.



I experience sync problems with my D2 as well. I have 1.21b. My comcast motorola box is connected to the D2 via HDMI. Audio is connected via optical. The comcast HDDVR will not output "native" in all formats... Only 1080i and 480i. It will not output 720P. The D2 is set to output 720p to my PJ. Anyway, whenever I change the channel on the comcast HDDVR from a 1080i channel (HBO) to a 480i channel (lets say CNN) I get a blue screen and then a resync and then the channel is finally tuned in. Sometimes this takes several resync efforts. With the updated firmware I rarely have to restart but everytime i change the channel I sit and wonder if I am going to have to. Bypassing the D2 and running the comcast directly into the PJ (infocus 7205) eliminates this problem and there is pretty much instant channel change between 480i and 1080i channels. I am assuming everyone experiences this and this is normal with the D2 at this point?


----------



## budeone

I spoke to soon when I said all was well. I cant get the avm-50 to do anything. I cant even get a menu on screen. The d ver is really not making me very happy. I am trying to update again and see it I get pic back.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/12158310
> 
> 
> I am assuming everyone experiences this and this is normal with the D2 at this point?



I think it is common or typical, but would hate to say it's normal. Consistent with my experiences. Have you noticed a difference using component connections?


----------



## budeone

Just an update if anybody is interested...


Nick at Anthem and Sounds Deluxe both agree I have a bad unit and are replacing it for me.


It has been a pain for the last year but I have to say over all I would buy from Anthem any day. The customer service is just fantastic.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/12163116
> 
> 
> Just an update if anybody is interested...
> 
> 
> Nick at Anthem and Sounds Deluxe both agree I have a bad unit and are replacing it for me.
> 
> 
> It has been a pain for the last year but I have to say over all I would buy from Anthem any day. The customer service is just fantastic.



I am interested. Thanks for the info!


----------



## wabbit636

well....ordered the D2 but have to wait 1 to 2 weeks to receive it. I will be shipped with the new chip which only makes it run cooler.


Its going to be a long wait.....


----------



## wabbit636

I know it depends on the scaler in the DVD but has anyone compared the difference between feeding the D2 a 480i via component vs 480p hdmi?


For me to feed it 480i I would have to buy components and was wondering if it is worth the extra cost for some decent components.


Until the D2 arrives I have a lot of reading on the board to do for those good tweaks!


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

wabbit636,

I've compared 480i vs. 480p into the D2 from my Pioneer Elite 59avi player, which is no slouch in its own right.


The de-interlacing in the D2 is visually and measurably superior.


Now, the trick is that most people are not that sensitized to de-interlacing problems -- they've lived with them most of their life and they kind of just "don't see them" until they are pointed out. But beware! Once you learn to see de-interlacing problems they become REALLY annoying when present. This is a case where ignorance really can mean bliss.


----------------------------------


Now understand that de-interlacing issues with standard DVDs mainly revolve around "problem" DVDs or specific places in an otherwise good DVD where something unusual happens. That means the difference between a good de-interlace processor and a great one may be seen only when playing certain discs, or certain portions of other discs.


Also, really good de-interlacing stuff is getting less expensive, so some of the new players may give the D2 decent competition in that regard. But when you can get a perfectly reasonable standard DVD transport -- with proper HDMI 480i output -- so inexpensively these days (e.g., Oppo Digital), I say send 480i to the D2 and let it do the work.

--Bob


----------



## wabbit636

another question....been reading through the pages but need this answered as I am ordering cables in the next few days and want to make sure I am good to go....


since my dvd only outputs 480i through component I will buy some components BUT can I still use my HDMI for audio to the D2??? Or will I also have to buy an optical cable or coaxial?


Do the newer version Blu ray players output 480i over hdmi? HD DVD players?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

wabbit636,

The change list for the V1.20 D2 software says it has added the feature to mix HDMI audio input with video from some other cable. I'm not running that software yet so I can't confirm this now works.


However, you may find that if you set your player's Component video output to 480i that its HDMI output doesn't have anything on it -- not video and not audio (HDMI audio is embedded in the HDMI video signal). I.e., it's likely the player won't output the two types of video (interlaced on Component and de-interlaced on HDMI) at the same time.


If your player WILL send out HDMI audio (presumably with a 480p video signal) while also sending out Component 480i video, and if the supposed new feature of the D2 V1.20 software actually works, then yes you can mix them.


But I wouldn't recommend it.


If you input HDMI audio you will have all of the HDMI handshake problems with no benefits. The audio that comes out of a player playing standard DVDs over HDMI is identical to what comes out over optical or coax digital audio cable when playing standard DVDs. And these days, optical digital audio cable is very inexpensive -- certainly compared to HDMI cable.


So if your standard DVD player can't output HDMI 480i video, then you should plan on pairing Component video (at 480i) with optical digital audio cabling.


--------------------------------


Some of the Blu-Ray and HD-DVD players are, indeed, able to send out HDMI 480i when playing standard DVDs.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Attached the Toshiba HD-A35 tonight. Used the Ds HDMI set to 1080i to my Marantz S3 set to 1080i and wow the first time it worked.

Up came the "free" Bourne Identity. Great pic and sound.

And I am using the original 1.10, no upgrades. Thought I would have issues with running the HD-DVD's. Nothing ever works the first time.

Gerry


----------



## Expletive

I've just requested the latest firmware and am going to be using the long weekend to upgrade my D2. I have a couple of questions for current users of 1.2x and video output, any insights are appreciated!


1. If i send 1080i from my toshiba A2, will the D2 be able to output it as 1080p24, and will this be the same 'quality' as if I had, say, a toshiba A20 that can output 1080p24 natively?


2. If i send 1080i from my toshiba A2, can the D2 output it as 720p48hz or 720p72hz with no judder to a benq 8720? I'm not sure if I would need a custom res for the benq so I'm making the assumption that it will accept the standard 48 and 72hz. If it can do this, will it be a scaled version of 1080p24, resulting in a 'judder free' picture on my 8720 or is this not possible without native 1080p/24 output from the player?


Thanks guys, i've been out of the loop for a little while on this stuff, thanks for any help.


John


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/12169999
> 
> 
> I've just requested the latest firmware and am going to be using the long weekend to upgrade my D2. I have a couple of questions for current users of 1.2x and video output, any insights are appreciated!
> 
> 
> 1. If i send 1080i from my toshiba A2, will the D2 be able to output it as 1080p24, and will this be the same 'quality' as if I had, say, a toshiba A20 that can output 1080p24 natively?
> 
> 
> 2. If i send 1080i from my toshiba A2, can the D2 output it as 720p48hz or 720p72hz with no judder to a benq 8720? I'm not sure if I would need a custom res for the benq so I'm making the assumption that it will accept the standard 48 and 72hz. If it can do this, will it be a scaled version of 1080p24, resulting in a 'judder free' picture on my 8720 or is this not possible without native 1080p/24 output from the player?
> 
> 
> Thanks guys, i've been out of the loop for a little while on this stuff, thanks for any help.
> 
> 
> John



I'm not familiar with the native resolution/refresh of the Benq (more important than what the Benq can convert) but that should be the output from the D2. As you can search p24 in the thread, even with 1080p24 sources to 1080p24 displays, it is "challenge rich", never mind adding res changes on top. p24 holy grail may gain more issues than benefits, regardless.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/12169999
> 
> 
> I've just requested the latest firmware and am going to be using the long weekend to upgrade my D2. I have a couple of questions for current users of 1.2x and video output, any insights are appreciated!
> 
> 
> 1. If i send 1080i from my toshiba A2, will the D2 be able to output it as 1080p24, and will this be the same 'quality' as if I had, say, a toshiba A20 that can output 1080p24 natively?
> 
> 
> 2. If i send 1080i from my toshiba A2, can the D2 output it as 720p48hz or 720p72hz with no judder to a benq 8720? I'm not sure if I would need a custom res for the benq so I'm making the assumption that it will accept the standard 48 and 72hz. If it can do this, will it be a scaled version of 1080p24, resulting in a 'judder free' picture on my 8720 or is this not possible without native 1080p/24 output from the player?
> 
> 
> Thanks guys, i've been out of the loop for a little while on this stuff, thanks for any help.
> 
> 
> John



Not quite yet. Anthem is still working on this but the conversion you need is not working reliably yet.


1080p/24 in to 1080p/24 out works fine with the new software. Leave Frame Lock = OFF. You get TWO video output configurations in the new software. Set one for 1080p/24 output, set the other for 1080p/60 output (for a 1080p TV). Assign each to different input definitions (like you would assign the two speaker configurations) according to the content you are viewing. Of course, to get any benefit from sending 1080p/24 to your TV, your TV has to be able to accept that as input *AND* alter its display refresh rate to be a multiple of 24 fps.


However 480i/60 or 1080i/60 input to 1080p/24 output conversion of film-based content is not working properly yet in the Anthem. For 480i/60 or 1080i/60 input, whether the content is film or video based, use 1080p/60 output to a 1080p TV.


That is, you will likely have stuttering if you attempt 1080p/24 (or /48) output from the D2 unless the input is 1080p/24.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

I'm thinking of moving into the world of Blueray or HD DVD. Where I have an AVM-50, I have some questions:


1. What manufacturer/model would you guys recommend?

2. Is there any issue with the AVM using HDMI 1.1 vs the 1.2 or 1.3 of the new formats?

3. Will the AVM be able to handle the new audio formats such as DTS HD and True Dolby?

4. Any other suggestions/recommendations would be appreciated.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12172957
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of moving into the world of Blueray or HD DVD. Where I have an AVM-50, I have some questions:
> 
> 
> 1. What manufacturer/model would you guys recommend?
> 
> 2. Is there any issue with the AVM using HDMI 1.1 vs the 1.2 or 1.3 of the new formats?
> 
> 3. Will the AVM be able to handle the new audio formats such as DTS HD and True Dolby?
> 
> 4. Any other suggestions/recommendations would be appreciated.




You'll see a preponderance of Anthem posters also in the Pio Blu-ray (HD1, 94HD, 95HD) threads and the Tosh XA2 threads for HD DVD


The Anthem does have issues with 1.3 players, partially fixed in different beta (unless post 1.1 production is out).


Anthem handles the formats mentioned as PCM streams as decoded in the players themselves. Only later model receivers handle High Def HDMI bitstream, including DTS Master Audio.


Some of the other issues can be linked to from the first post of the thread and looking in the respective HD DVD & Blu-ray forums. I think there is anticipation of newer dual format players like the Samsung 5000 (at least me for a second setup).


----------



## joealbracht

I've just happily converted from a Lexicon MC-1 to the D2.










In reworking my home automation system to accommodate the D2, I seem to be a couple of IR commands short. The Lexicon provides IR commands to manipulate the volume:

1) Set the volume to a specific db level (0, -10, -20, -30db)

2) Raise or lower the current volume by 5db


I've found similar RS-232-commands for the D2 but no IR commands. Any suggestions on where to look or are such IR commands not supported in the D2?


thanks


Joe


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12173237
> 
> 
> You'll see a preponderance of Anthem posters also in the Pio Blu-ray (HD1, 94HD, 95HD) threads and the Tosh XA2 threads for HD DVD
> 
> 
> The Anthem does have issues with 1.3 players, partially fixed in different beta (unless post 1.1 production is out).
> 
> 
> Anthem handles the formats mentioned as PCM streams as decoded in the players themselves. Only later model receivers handle High Def HDMI bitstream, including DTS Master Audio.
> 
> 
> Some of the other issues can be linked to from the first post of the thread and looking in the respective HD DVD & Blu-ray forums. I think there is anticipation of newer dual format players like the Samsung 5000 (at least me for a second setup).



Thanks, if I understand you correctly, the Anthem can handle the new audio formats so long as the player decodes it and sends it to the Anthem as a PCM audiostream?


Also, are you saying that some of the compatibilty issues between the Anthems 1.1 and players with 1.3 can be resolved or possibly resolved with an Anthem firmware upgrade?


I just want to make sure in purchasing a Blueray or HD DVD player, I can take full advantage of their potential.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12172927
> 
> 
> Not quite yet. Anthem is still working on this but the conversion you need is not working reliably yet.
> 
> 
> 1080p/24 in to 1080p/24 out works fine with the new software. Leave Frame Lock = OFF. You get TWO video output configurations in the new software. Set one for 1080p/24 output, set the other for 1080p/60 output (for a 1080p TV). Assign each to different input definitions (like you would assign the two speaker configurations) according to the content you are viewing. Of course, to get any benefit from sending 1080p/24 to your TV, your TV has to be able to accept that as input *AND* alter its display refresh rate to be a multiple of 24 fps.
> 
> 
> However 480i/60 or 1080i/60 input to 1080p/24 output conversion of film-based content is not working properly yet in the Anthem. For 480i/60 or 1080i/60 input, whether the content is film or video based, use 1080p/60 output to a 1080p TV.
> 
> 
> That is, you will likely have stuttering if you attempt 1080p/24 (or /48) output from the D2 unless the input is 1080p/24.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, that's what I thought might be the case. So it sounds like if i can input a 1080p24 signal, should be able to output a 720p48 or 720p72 signal ok?


Is there any way to get the new firmware? It seems anthem may have been too busy today to get around to emailing it to me and I wanted to spend time on it this weekend.


If anyone can PM me i'll provide an email address to send it, thanks!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12173684
> 
> 
> Thanks, if I understand you correctly, the Anthem can handle the new audio formats so long as the player decodes it and sends it to the Anthem as a PCM audiostream?



Yes



> Quote:
> Also, are you saying that some of the compatibilty issues between the Anthems 1.1 and players with 1.3 can be resolved or possibly resolved with an Anthem firmware upgrade?



Partially resolved in later updates.



> Quote:
> I just want to make sure in purchasing a Blu-ray or HD DVD player, I can take full advantage of their potential.



Understood. You just mill not be able to play bitstream only High Def formats. Regular DTS or Dolby via optical bitstream or PCM (limited to 5.1 streams) over HDMI will get you most of the goodness. Not players have updates now too, which is why it's worth swinging into the Blu-ray & HD DVD Player forums.


----------



## wabbit636

looking to buy a blu ray dvd player (one of the newer models) with the advanced audio formats (DTS-HD, Dolby true, etc) & can output snd def 480i via HDMI


Can anyone tell me which model has an internal decoder for these audio formats to send to the D2 so it can output it and can send 480i via HDMI??? I am looking and can't find one so far....




Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12174839
> 
> 
> looking to buy a blu ray dvd player (one of the newer models) with the advanced audio formats (DTS-HD, Dolby true, etc) & can output snd def 480i via HDMI
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me which model has an internal decoder for these audio formats to send to the D2 so it can output it and can send 480i via HDMI??? I am looking and can't find one so far....
> 
> 
> Thanks



If you need to BUY ONE TODAY - I recommend Pioneer.


If you don't need one immediately - waiting a bit could

be a good idea.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12174517
> 
> 
> Yes.






> Quote:
> Partially resolved in later updates..



Please explain what you mean by partially resolved.



> Quote:
> Understood. You just mill not be able to play bitstream only High Def formats. Regular DTS or Dolby via optical bitstream or PCM (limited to 5.1 streams) over HDMI will get you most of the goodness. Not players have updates now too, which is why it's worth swinging into the Blu-ray & HD DVD Player forums.



I don't quite understand what you are telling me above. Will I be able to hear Dolby True HD and DTS HD master audio through the Anthem?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12175388
> 
> 
> Please explain what you mean by partially resolved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't quite understand what you are telling me above. Will I be able to hear Dolby True HD and DTS HD master audio through the Anthem?



Depending on the player you will be able to get True HD if the player decodes it internally. Later Profile players (meaning future players) will be needed to decode Master Audio. Right now, for example, the Pio 95HD only does Master Audio by Hi Def bitstream as it can't decoded and sent PCM.


Anthem can do most everything with HDMI, but some newer 1.3 capabilities it can't. It also can't do 7.1 PCM but there is very limited content that supports 7.1. It can't be upgraded to 1.3 nor 7.1 without a major hardware model/revision.


On the potential compatibility problems, the 1.3 compliant players did give the Anthem fits early on. The firmware updates have increased stability, but not cured it. It really has multiple variables including displays, and many permutations of possible answers, Player, Player Firmware, Anthem Firmware, Display, etc. This is why I mentioned looking at the player threads and for folks with Anthems that post.


If I had to buy today I would by a Pio 95HD (though I understand Spiderman and Anthem and the 95 have player issues). It should be "plug & play". I can dream. And I would buy a Toshiba A35, although I don't know the compatibility issues with the A35 itself, it does put out bitstream over HDMI even though the Anthem can't use it. If I bought in Jan I would buy a Samsung 5000 dual format and roll the dice.


Tim


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12174517
> 
> 
> Yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Partially resolved in later updates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Understood. You just mill not be able to play bitstream only High Def formats. Regular DTS or Dolby via optical bitstream or PCM (limited to 5.1 streams) over HDMI will get you most of the goodness. Not players have updates now too, which is why it's worth swinging into the Blu-ray & HD DVD Player forums.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12175489
> 
> 
> Depending on the player you will be able to get True HD if the player decodes it internally. Later Profile players (meaning future players) will be needed to decode Master Audio. Right now, for example, the Pio 95HD only does Master Audio by Hi Def bitstream as it can't decoded and sent PCM.
> 
> 
> Anthem can do most everything with HDMI, but some newer 1.3 capabilities it can't. It also can't do 7.1 PCM but there is very limited content that supports 7.1. It can't be upgraded to 1.3 nor 7.1 without a major hardware model/revision.
> 
> 
> On the potential compatibility problems, the 1.3 compliant players did give the Anthem fits early on. The firmware updates have increased stability, but not cured it. It really has multiple variables including displays, and many permutations of possible answers, Player, Player Firmware, Anthem Firmware, Display, etc. This is why I mentioned looking at the player threads and for folks with Anthems that post.
> 
> 
> If I had to buy today I would by a Pio 95HD (though I understand Spiderman and Anthem and the 95 have player issues). It should be "plug & play". I can dream. And I would buy a Toshiba A35, although I don't know the compatibility issues with the A35 itself, it does put out bitstream over HDMI even though the Anthem can't use it. If I bought in Jan I would buy a Samsung 5000 dual format and roll the dice.
> 
> 
> Tim



So, to summarize, the key is to find a player that will decode both DTS HD master audio and Dolby True HD internally and output these signals as PCM?


----------



## wabbit636

bluemark81...that is correct from what I understand. I am currently trying to find one!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12175616
> 
> 
> So, to summarize, the key is to find a player that will decode both DTS HD master audio and Dolby True HD internally and output these signals as PCM?



These will need to be next generation players.


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12176306
> 
> 
> These will need to be next generation players.



Right now I am having difficulty finding one. Really hope a player comes out to match up perferctly with the needs of our D2 otherwise Anthem may have to do an pgrade to HDMI 1.3 to allow these audio formats to be sent via bitstream. Many new players are coming out with this and its a big advantage right because of the limitations in player choices.


----------



## The Bogg

My D1 is in surgery...I'll be expecting some bouncy mascots in a week or so when it comes back as a D2 (okay, actually a D1-HD)


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12177423
> 
> 
> Right now I am having difficulty finding one. Really hope a player comes out to match up perferctly with the needs of our D2 otherwise Anthem may have to do an pgrade to HDMI 1.3 to allow these audio formats to be sent via bitstream. Many new players are coming out with this and its a big advantage right because of the limitations in player choices.



There will need to be a new model, e.g., AVM-70, D3, as there are no plance to upgrade other than the usual (good) flow of upgrades which follow introduction of new models. My guess is 1+ years based on info from this thread.


Here's some more banter on the newer players and the religious wars of in player vs in receiver high def bitstream decoding.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post12177777


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12176306
> 
> 
> These will need to be next generation players.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12178993
> 
> 
> There will need to be a new model, e.g., AVM-70, D3, as there are no plance to upgrade other than the usual (good) flow of upgrades which follow introduction of new models. My guess is 1+ years based on info from this thread.
> 
> 
> Here's some more banter on the newer players and the religious wars of in player vs in receiver high def bitstream decoding.
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post12177777




Thanks...are you saying that the rumour is not for another year before a new model?


Is it basically a given that D2 owners will have the chance to upgrade to the next model?


I hope so, as if this is the case then my D2 thats on its way will also go get some "surgury" when the time comes. I was weary of buying the D2 considering it has been out for a while and a new model would be in the works but if its 12 months then I will get some go usage out of it before I need it upgraded! Besides I just couldn't wait that long to get a new processor!


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12177423
> 
> 
> Right now I am having difficulty finding one. Really hope a player comes out to match up perferctly with the needs of our D2 otherwise Anthem may have to do an pgrade to HDMI 1.3 to allow these audio formats to be sent via bitstream. Many new players are coming out with this and its a big advantage right because of the limitations in player choices.



The upcoming DENON DVD-3800BD maybe the answer. Its pricey at $1999, at least that was the price when it was announced.


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goenkar* /forum/post/12179205
> 
> 
> The upcoming DENON DVD-3800BD maybe the answer. Its pricey at $1999, at least that was the price when it was announced.




I feel its a bit pricey considering the format war isn't over. If it played both formats then I would gladly pay the price but until then I don't want to spend that much $$ on 2 dufferent format players


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The chip sets that will enable DTS-HD MA decoding in reasonably priced players exist now.


It's too late to launch new product for Christmas selling season, so you likely won't see announcements on such players until closer to year end (for 2008Q1 sales).


TrueHD decoding is, of course, already here in reasonably priced players.


All this angst over DTS-HD MA decoding in players will likely go away in a few months -- only to be replaced with worries over the players' interactive and networking features.

--Bob


----------



## cosmos5861

My Plasma panasonic 50thpf9uk accepts 1080p/24 via analog RGB. I want to buy a HD DVD or BR DVD in the future. So here is my connections: Directv H20 via HDMI to Anthem AVM50 (Output 1920x1080p/24) to HDFURY into plasma via analog RGB. Picture looks good. But Video does not seem smooth. Very noticeable when watching HD football. Here is my settings for video output on Anthem:

a. S-video oSD NTSC

b. Preferred HDMI

c. Resolution 1920 x 1080p/24

d. Color Space Auto

e. Data Format Auto

f. letterbox Black

g. Sync Normal

h. Component 2 off


Also this plasma has 1:1 pixel . Should I leave it off on on?


Thank you


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/12179941
> 
> 
> My Plasma panasonic 50thpf9uk accepts 1080p/24 via analog RGB. I want to buy a HD DVD or BR DVD in the future. So here is my connections: Directv H20 via HDMI to Anthem AVM50 (Output 1920x1080p/24) to HDFURY into plasma via analog RGB. Picture looks good. But Video does not seem smooth. Very noticeable when watching HD football. Here is my settings for video output on Anthem:
> 
> a. S-video oSD NTSC
> 
> b. Preferred HDMI
> 
> c. Resolution 1920 x 1080p/24
> 
> d. Color Space Auto
> 
> e. Data Format Auto
> 
> f. letterbox Black
> 
> g. Sync Normal
> 
> h. Component 2 off
> 
> 
> Also this plasma has 1:1 pixel . Should I leave it off on on?
> 
> 
> Thank you



First, in general, you want the native resolution and scan rate of the panel. You do want 1:1 pixel mapping. Even though a panel can "do" 24, it may not be the native rate and cause an extra conversion.


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12172957
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of moving into the world of Blueray or HD DVD. Where I have an AVM-50, I have some questions:
> 
> 
> 1. What manufacturer/model would you guys recommend?
> 
> 2. Is there any issue with the AVM using HDMI 1.1 vs the 1.2 or 1.3 of the new formats?
> 
> 3. Will the AVM be able to handle the new audio formats such as DTS HD and True Dolby?
> 
> 4. Any other suggestions/recommendations would be appreciated.



1. I own and HD-A2 and an BD-P1200. I send 1080i out of my A2 and let my D2 do the up conversion to 1080p. It looks awesome. I have my D2 passthrough the 1080p signal from my BD-P1200.

2. I don't know. I have rare handshake issues with both player but it is nothing cycling the inputs doesn't fix. I am running 1.11e

3. You will need a player which decodes the next gen audio (DTS-MA, DTS-HD, TrueHD) and passes it as PCM which you AVM-50 will handle. Not many players do DTS-MA or DTS-HD so good hunting.

4. I would recommend the Toshiba HD-A3 on the HD-DVD side and the Samsung BD-P1400 on the Blu-ray side. Both support decoding of TrueHD at the player neither support DTS-MA or DTS-HD.


----------



## cosmos5861




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12180567
> 
> 
> First, in general, you want the native resolution and scan rate of the panel. You do want 1:1 pixel mapping. Even though a panel can "do" 24, it may not be the native rate and cause an extra conversion.



I got my answer from GlenC


"Sure, 24fps is film only, video is 60fps........"


----------



## cosmos5861

I have already seen this post . I have the following components:


Panasonic TH50pf9uk 

Directv H20

Oppo 970


Anymore hints how to calibrate this plasma with Anthem AVM50?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/12181926
> 
> 
> I have already seen this post . I have the following components:
> 
> 
> Panasonic TH50pf9uk
> 
> Directv H20
> 
> Oppo 970
> 
> 
> Anymore hints how to calibrate this plasma with Anthem AVM50?



See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/12181870
> 
> 
> I got my answer from GlenC
> 
> 
> "Sure, 24fps is film only, video is 60fps........"



A panel does not have 2 native rates. The listed rates (both aren't fps) are what the panel can process, but note you would need two output settings to properly use it if there were. I would GUESS the native rate of the panel from the specs is 1080p60. The point of having the Anthem 50 or D2 is to let the ASnthem do the video processing as it will be better than the panel (typically).


Have you tried 1080p60 to see the judder go away?


Nice panel for the $s.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12184348
> 
> 
> A panel does not have 2 native rates. The listed rates (both aren't fps) are what the panel can process, but note you would need two output settings to properly use it if there were. I would GUESS the native rate of the panel from the specs is 1080p60. The point of having the Anthem 50 or D2 is to let the ASnthem do the video processing as it will be better than the panel (typically).
> 
> 
> Have you tried 1080p60 to see the judder go away?
> 
> 
> Nice panel for the $s.


*Tim* the native resolution of cosmos5861's Panel is NOT

a Native TV resolution. This panel is meant for COMPUTER

use - not TV display.


The AVM50 would have to be programmed for some unusual

output format and he may never get rid of the Judder.


----------



## Don O’Brien

I have a D2 and I am having a problem with 2nd or zone2 YPbPr output. I have an Directv HDTivo, Directv H20, SA 8300 HD Dvr (all connected via component video and output at 720 p). I have video output for HDMI preferred, Color Space HDTV, Output resoluion 720p60, Data-RGB extended which works great for my 720p projector, but even when I set the zone2 output to unprocessed, I still have a color space problems. If I change the settings for the main zone it impacts the color space of the unprocessed video on the second component out. This does not make sense to me.


I am using 1.11 of the firmware.


What is the latest and greatest firmware for the D2?


----------



## jayray

Got some info trom Tosh indicating that a firmware update would be coming out in the next week or so, supporting DTS-MA through bitstream on the XA2

and A35. No mention of HDMI versions being the issue, but no pcm of the DTS-MA except the core 1.5mb/s. So at least for D2 and AVM50 owners, there appears to be no way for us to get the lossless version. As for the future they said it was unlikely it would ever be decoded in the player by a firmware update










John


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/12181870
> 
> 
> I got my answer from GlenC
> 
> 
> "Sure, 24fps is film only, video is 60fps........"



Actually, video is 30fps. And I believe only Pioneer has plasmas that can refresh at 72hz.


larry


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12184609
> 
> *Tim* the native resolution of cosmos5861's Panel is NOT
> 
> a Native TV resolution. This panel is meant for COMPUTER
> 
> use - not TV display.
> 
> 
> The AVM50 would have to be programmed for some unusual
> 
> output format and he may never get rid of the Judder.



Excellent point. I have never seen a 24fps computer display, but if it is truly a multi-syncing computer display I stand (at least partially corrected). Whatever the best actual resolution of the panel plus whatever best Anthem res/refresh should be the target pairing between the two. I would guess that it's not 24fps in any event.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/12184742
> 
> 
> Got some info trom Tosh indicating that a firmware update would be coming out in the next week or so, supporting DTS-MA through bitstream on the XA2
> 
> and A35. No mention of HDMI versions being the issue, but no pcm of the DTS-MA except the core 1.5mb/s. So at least for D2 and AVM50 owners, there appears to be no way for us to get the lossless version. As for the future they said it was unlikely it would ever be decoded in the player by a firmware update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



John, that's Excellent news. Can you post the info in the XA-2 thread.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...768634&page=83


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12185453
> 
> 
> Excellent point. I have never seen a 24fps computer display, but if it is truly a multi-syncing computer display I stand (at least partially corrected). Whatever the best actual resolution of the panel plus whatever best Anthem res/refresh should be the target pairing between the two. I would guess that it's not 24fps in any event.



It is not even the 24fps issue. Because it really does

48fps not 24fps.


When I downloaded the manual to read about the real

specifications versus what a retailer wants you to THINK

it can do - you find the real truth. I'm not even sure the

DVI interface supports HDCP. The Panel's native resolution

is also formatted for Computer graphics 1920x1200.


The price is intended for computer graphics - NOT HD-Def Video.


----------



## wabbit636

Anyone talk to the company recently about plans for internal decoding for advanced audio (bitstream through HDMI 1.3) and a hardware upgrade to v1.3???


I know they were in no rush with v1.3 but I now realize that the time has come to consider it as many AVR are now introducing it & in my desperate search for a player that does it internally and sends it via PCM has left me empty handed! So imo D2 & AVM 50 users will slowly be left behind if thye are not considering it soon.


Mind you I haven't taken the leap yet in HD players and hence want one that can do it all and last a while until something new comes along.


what do others using the D2 and an HD player think of this?


Should I just get a samsung BD-P 1400 and be happy with the audio we can get from it via HDMI until Anthem hooks us up with new hardware?


Thanks


----------



## dschamis

I am running 1.12s - it came installed when I bought the unit. Does it make sense to upgrade to 1.21d? Normally I always stay current, but based on some of the discussion I am confused???


----------



## TREVLAN

I don;t know anyone else but using the PS3 for bluray has bween the best thing for me.

and DTS-MA will soon be avalible as a software upgread around x-mas time or early jan-08.

I always get 48k [i think thats it] 6-channel output from the PS3 nothing I have heard sounds as good.

this is going to the avm-50 and using paridgim 590-c studio 20s L-R and adp590 for surrounds.

if your looking for a bluray player with dts-ma [soon] and pcm true-hd with gaming to boot this is it. In my opinion that is.

i've been happy with it and just think right now 400 bucks plus spiderman3 and 5 free other bluray titles.. can't go wrong.\\


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12186625
> 
> 
> 
> Should I just get a samsung BD-P 1400 and be happy with the audio we can get from it via HDMI until Anthem hooks us up with new hardware?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I think you should do some research on that

unit here on AVS.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/12187129
> 
> 
> I am running 1.12s - it came installed when I bought the unit. Does it make sense to upgrade to 1.21d? Normally I always stay current, but based on some of the discussion I am confused???



V1.12s (emailed from tech support) is supposedly the same as V1.2 (installed in the factory -- think of it as V1.20).


V1.21a, b, c, and d are each newer than that.


We've had both positive and negative reports in this thread on these V1.21x "test" releases. Unless you are having a problem, I'd suggest sticking with the software you have now. If you are having a problem, give Anthem tech support a call and see what they suggest for your specific equipment configuration. At least some of these "newer" versions were not recommended for some configurations -- in particular people sending Component video to their display.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12186625
> 
> 
> Anyone talk to the company recently about plans for internal decoding for advanced audio (bitstream through HDMI 1.3) and a hardware upgrade to v1.3???
> 
> 
> I know they were in no rush with v1.3 but I now realize that the time has come to consider it as many AVR are now introducing it & in my desperate search for a player that does it internally and sends it via PCM has left me empty handed! So imo D2 & AVM 50 users will slowly be left behind if thye are not considering it soon.
> 
> 
> Mind you I haven't taken the leap yet in HD players and hence want one that can do it all and last a while until something new comes along.
> 
> 
> what do others using the D2 and an HD player think of this?
> 
> 
> Should I just get a samsung BD-P 1400 and be happy with the audio we can get from it via HDMI until Anthem hooks us up with new hardware?
> 
> 
> Thanks



This player's strong suit is putting out all the codecs via bitstream to a receiver, something the D2 can't handle and won't handle until a major upgrade, multiple months after an unannounced new model (probably at significant cost (but better than almost every other manufacturer in having an upgrade path). Maybe even the format war will be over by then. There are other issues why I too would recommend again going to the specific thread in the Blu-ray hardware forum.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12186625
> 
> 
> Anyone talk to the company recently about plans for internal decoding for advanced audio (bitstream through HDMI 1.3) and a hardware upgrade to v1.3???
> 
> 
> I know they were in no rush with v1.3 but I now realize that the time has come to consider it as many AVR are now introducing it & in my desperate search for a player that does it internally and sends it via PCM has left me empty handed! So imo D2 & AVM 50 users will slowly be left behind if thye are not considering it soon.
> 
> 
> Mind you I haven't taken the leap yet in HD players and hence want one that can do it all and last a while until something new comes along.
> 
> 
> what do others using the D2 and an HD player think of this?
> 
> 
> Should I just get a samsung BD-P 1400 and be happy with the audio we can get from it via HDMI until Anthem hooks us up with new hardware?
> 
> 
> Thanks



The most recent "insider" info from Anthem we've had reported here is that as of September, Anthem has not begun such an engineering effort.


I wouldn't expect HDMI V1.3 before next fall, and it wouldn't surprise me if it doesn't happen at all next year.


And of course receiving the "lossless" bitstreams requires HDMI V1.3, so that's gated on the hardware change. The change is actually much more significant than just HDMI V1.3 hardware however.


----------------------------------


The issue is DTS-HD MA. That's really the ONLY thing that people would need such a change for at the moment. And if I'm correct that reasonably priced players with INTERNAL DTS-HD MA decoding will be launched early next year, then even that need goes away.


Please note, the inability to upgrade CURRENT players to decode DTS-HD MA is due to the performance limitations of the processing chip set they are using. The more powerful processing chip set is now available, but none of these current players are going to see a hardware upgrade. Welcome to the world of early adopters.

--Bob


----------



## wabbit636

Bob,


Thank for the reply. Does this mean that next player models with internal decoding will be able to output the DTS-MA via HDMI 1.1? Or will it only be through bitstream thus HDMI V1.3?


Doing a lot of reading on the whole issue. If this is the case then I may just opt to buy an inexpensive decent player that fits today's needs and get a new one once these internal decoder players are out.


----------



## AnthemAVM

Can anyone confirm that I have my XA2 set up correctly, so it is processing the TrueHD track? I have the Digital Out set at SPDIF - Bitstream and HDMI at Auto? Is that correct?


I was thinking I needed to have it at SPDIF at PCM and HDMI at Auto, but I only get a 96K on the Anthem, not the 48K? I have it hooked up via HDMI.


Thanks


My second questions is there a way to buy pass the video processing in the Anthem via HDMI?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12187791
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thank for the reply. Does this mean that next player models with internal decoding will be able to output the DTS-MA via HDMI 1.1? Or will it only be through bitstream thus HDMI V1.3?
> 
> 
> Doing a lot of reading on the whole issue. If this is the case then I may just opt to buy an inexpensive decent player that fits today's needs and get a new one once these internal decoder players are out.



There's a Denon player already announced that will output DTS-HD MA as PCM (decoded in the player) and that will work just fine with the D2 and AVM-50.


That player is expensive.


The chip sets now exist for the manufacturers to make more reasonably priced players that do the same thing.


It is also possible that the Sony PS3 will get a software upgrade to do the same thing since it already has a much more powerful processor built in compared to the player-only products.


However, there will likely also be new players launched that DON'T do this. So you will need to do your homework. And old players (except for the PS3) are unlikely to be upgraded to do this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12187858
> 
> 
> Can anyone confirm that I have my XA2 set up correctly, so it is processing the TrueHD track? I have the Digital Out set at SPDIF - Bitstream and HDMI at Auto? Is that correct?
> 
> 
> I was thinking I needed to have it at SPDIF at PCM and HDMI at Auto, but I only get a 96K on the Anthem, not the 48K? I have it hooked up via HDMI.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> My second questions is there a way to buy pass the video processing in the Anthem via HDMI?
> 
> 
> Thanks



You can't bypass the video processing in the Anthem when you use HDMI input.


If you are getting 5.1 channels of PCM at 48K then the odds are you have your XA2 set up correctly.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht

Set the HDMI for PCM also.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12187931
> 
> 
> There's a Denon player already announced that will output DTS-HD MA as PCM (decoded in the player) and that will work just fine with the D2 and AVM-50.
> 
> 
> --Bob



I could be WRONG - but I think the latest Pioneer

does it NOW.


I have my ORDER in for the Samsung BD-UP5000

that is said to support it with a FW update.


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12188077
> 
> 
> I could be WRONG - but I think the latest Pioneer
> 
> does it NOW.
> 
> 
> I have my ORDER in for the Samsung BD-UP5000
> 
> that is said to support it with a FW update.



I was looking at that a while back but couldn't find all the specs for it.


Will it internally decode the DTS-MA and send it throught HDMI v1.1 (PCM) to our D2's???


Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12188097
> 
> 
> I was looking at that a while back but couldn't find all the specs for it.
> 
> 
> Will it internally decode the DTS-MA and send it throught HDMI v1.1 (PCM) to our D2's???
> 
> 
> Thanks



The Samsung BD-UP5000 is claimed to support

internal decoding with a FW update in January.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12188097
> 
> 
> I was looking at that a while back but couldn't find all the specs for it.
> 
> 
> Will it internally decode the DTS-MA and send it throught HDMI v1.1 (PCM) to our D2's???
> 
> 
> Thanks



FYI - there is *ONLY ONE STUDIO* using DTS-MA and that is *FOX*.


No One else uses it.


----------



## AnthemAVM

More stupid questions.


I am watching a Dts-HD dvd, and it shows Audio Input at 1536 pbs, how does this compare to the 48, we have with TrueHD?


Michael


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12188200
> 
> 
> More stupid questions.
> 
> 
> I am watching a Dts-HD dvd, and it shows Audio Input at 1536 pbs, how does this compare to the 48, we have with TrueHD?
> 
> 
> Michael



That is just STANDARD DTS


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12188155
> 
> 
> FYI - there is *ONLY ONE STUDIO* using DTS-MA and that is *FOX*.
> 
> 
> No One else uses it.



Yes, I know they are the only ones but there by having it you cover all your bases in terms of high quality audio.


I will be waiting your report on your new universal player and if all works well then I will order one! I wanted to preorder it but lack of info caused me to wait.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12188311
> 
> 
> Yes, I know they are the only ones but there by having it you cover all your bases in terms of high quality audio.
> 
> 
> I will be waiting your report on your new universal player and if all works well then I will order one! I wanted to preorder it but lack of info caused me to wait.



I don't know how you can say LACK of info.


There is so much info - it is SWAMPING people.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12187599
> 
> 
> V1.12s (emailed from tech support) is supposedly the same as V1.2 (installed in the factory -- think of it as V1.20).
> 
> 
> V1.21a, b, c, and d are each newer than that.
> 
> 
> We've had both positive and negative reports in this thread on these V1.21x "test" releases. Unless you are having a problem, I'd suggest sticking with the software you have now. If you are having a problem, give Anthem tech support a call and see what they suggest for your specific equipment configuration. At least some of these "newer" versions were not recommended for some configurations -- in particular people sending Component video to their display.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - the only real problems I've been having is minor amounts of snow and noise on video - I have a Digital Projection Titan 1080p-250 connected via an HDMI=>DVI cable - it is obviously a handshake type problem because it usually doesn't happen, and when it does I usually just power cycle the projector and things look fine.


The question is, is there any reason to believe that the new firmware will address this issue?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12188077
> 
> 
> I could be WRONG - but I think the latest Pioneer
> 
> does it NOW.
> 
> 
> I have my ORDER in for the Samsung BD-UP5000
> 
> that is said to support it with a FW update.



The Pioneer players announced at CEDIA supposedly do not decode DTS-HD MA. I believe they stop at DTS-HR. Also I believe they are not spec'd to be Blu-Ray player profile 1.1.


Has there been a spec change since then?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/12189146
> 
> 
> Bob - the only real problems I've been having is minor amounts of snow and noise on video - I have a Digital Projection Titan 1080p-250 connected via an HDMI=>DVI cable - it is obviously a handshake type problem because it usually doesn't happen, and when it does I usually just power cycle the projector and things look fine.
> 
> 
> The question is, is there any reason to believe that the new firmware will address this issue?



Sparklies in an otherwise normal video image usually point to a cabling problem.


The fact that you can clear it by doing a re-handshake is unusual.


My guess is you have a marginal cable (including any adapters or wall plates) for the length of cable you are trying to use. Particularly if you are trying to send 1080p over it.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12189979
> 
> 
> The Pioneer players announced at CEDIA supposedly do not decode DTS-HD MA. I believe they stop at DTS-HR. Also I believe they are not spec'd to be Blu-Ray player profile 1.1.
> 
> 
> Has there been a spec change since then?
> 
> --Bob



The 95HD does MA, but only via HDMI bitstream. The 94 & HD1 are hoping to get it in a firmware release.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/12184742
> 
> 
> Got some info trom Tosh indicating that a firmware update would be coming out in the next week or so, supporting DTS-MA through bitstream on the XA2
> 
> and A35. No mention of HDMI versions being the issue, but no pcm of the DTS-MA except the core 1.5mb/s. So at least for D2 and AVM50 owners, there appears to be no way for us to get the lossless version. As for the future they said it was unlikely it would ever be decoded in the player by a firmware update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John




Not for long time at CES we should see DTS MA internal decoding capable players. This is what I am waiting for before upgrading my Pioneer BDP-HD1 and Toshiba XA2.


PS: I hope Toshiba fixed the mess of the previous upgrade (audio delays and an unusable 1080p24).


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12188155
> 
> 
> FYI - there is *ONLY ONE STUDIO* using DTS-MA and that is *FOX*.
> 
> 
> No One else uses it.




Some European HD DVD and BD titles are also providing DTS-MA.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/12195244
> 
> 
> Some European HD DVD and BD titles are also providing DTS-MA.



I stand corrected.


I only deal with the *REAL WORLD STUDIOS*


----------



## budeone

I am having some problems saving and restoring settings in the AVM-50. Can someone please post step by step for saving from unit and restoring from the file please.



I just want to make sure I am using the correct program and doing it correct.


Thanks!!


----------



## Expletive

Well after 2 tries, i got my ancient 1.06 D2 up to 1.21d! I'm looking for this information online now but just in case i cant find it can someone answer these questions?


1. Can the 1.1 settings editor be used with 1.2x firmware?

2. How do i set my 2nd output resolution to one of the standards in the live video settings editor? I am going to test 1080p24 in to 720p71.xx (or whatever) out as per Nicks suggestion but it isnt obvious to me how get that set. Thanks for any help!


----------



## t3chi3

I am using a Sony PS3 to play all of my DVDs and have very few Blu-ray content as of yet. I also have the AVM50 and the Sony Black Pearl 1080p projector.


Should I output 1080p from my PS3 for normal DVDs or should I output less resolution and let the AVM scale up the image? Am I overthinking?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *t3chi3* /forum/post/12198059
> 
> 
> 
> Should I output 1080p from my PS3 for normal DVDs or should I output less resolution and let the AVM scale up the image? Am I overthinking?



WHY NOT DO IT BOTH WAYS and draw your own conclusions?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/12197860
> 
> 
> Well after 2 tries, i got my ancient 1.06 D2 up to 1.21d! I'm looking for this information online now but just in case i cant find it can someone answer these questions?
> 
> 
> 1. Can the 1.1 settings editor be used with 1.2x firmware?



I use 1.12k but 1.20 SetupEditor is included with 1.21b (which is more stable than d in my opinion. LiveVideoSettings 1.20 is included with 1.21d. I don't know why they didn't include the SetupEditor in the d release.



> Quote:
> 2. How do i set my 2nd output resolution to one of the standards in the live video settings editor? I am going to test 1080p24 in to 720p71.xx (or whatever) out as per Nicks suggestion but it isnt obvious to me how get that set. Thanks for any help!



I guess this can't be done on the Receiver front panel if an odd setting. So under LiveVideoSettings 1.20 under Advanced Video Settings there is a check box for Custom Res and/or Custom Gamma and drop down for #1, #2, or Both.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/12195987
> 
> 
> I am having some problems saving and restoring settings in the AVM-50. Can someone please post step by step for saving from unit and restoring from the file please.
> 
> 
> 
> I just want to make sure I am using the correct program and doing it correct.
> 
> 
> Thanks!!



Hopefully you did a save before any updating. The read me files are pretty explicit with the updates. I actually save to the memories on the front panel and to a file in the Setup Editor. Suggest you look up the front of the thread on the step by step.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12195539
> 
> 
> I stand corrected.
> 
> 
> I only deal with the *REAL WORLD STUDIOS*



It's funny, I popped in 28 Weeks Later to de-sugar myself from a Weekend of Disney fare. DTS-HD MA is the default codec


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12198895
> 
> 
> I use 1.12k but 1.20 SetupEditor is included with 1.21b (which is more stable than d in my opinion. LiveVideoSettings 1.20 is included with 1.21d. I don't know why they didn't include the SetupEditor in the d release.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess this can't be done on the Receiver front panel if an odd setting. So under LiveVideoSettings 1.20 under Advanced Video Settings there is a check box for Custom Res and/or Custom Gamma and drop down for #1, #2, or Both.



Thanks for the reply. That's odd, I'll ping Nick on the settings editor via email.


I can see the advanced settings under the Live Video Editor where two output resolutions should be listed but I see only one there. I'll check again tonight and see if i missed something.


Thanks again.


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12198924
> 
> 
> Hopefully you did a save before any updating. The read me files are pretty explicit with the updates. I actually save to the memories on the front panel and to a file in the Setup Editor. Suggest you look up the front of the thread on the step by step.




I save the settings to file. I follow the directions.. They seem pretty easy. I was just hoping maybe there was something I was missing.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/12199128
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. That's odd, I'll ping Nick on the settings editor via email.
> 
> 
> I can see the advanced settings under the Live Video Editor where two output resolutions should be listed but I see only one there. I'll check again tonight and see if i missed something.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



After you check custom res & change the drop down to #2, click retriueve settings. Hit the custom res in the left column and you'll see the info and can reset to whatever custom res you want and save it.


----------



## t3chi3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12198271
> 
> 
> WHY NOT DO IT BOTH WAYS and draw your own conclusions?




I guess we can close this place down for questions now and all be rugged individualists. Thanks !


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *t3chi3* /forum/post/12201811
> 
> 
> I guess we can close this place down for questions now and all be rugged individualists. Thanks !



There is a lot of people here with Anthem RELIGION.


Trying it in your setup will be the best for you.


I run my setup in certain ways that some of the

RELIGIOUS people here disagree with. But I like

it my way and they are not here to SEE or HEAR

what I experience.


If you don't try - you might be MISSING out on what

is BEST for YOU.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12195539
> 
> 
> I stand corrected.
> 
> 
> I only deal with the *REAL WORLD STUDIOS*




Don't start me on that.










The problem with the real world studios is that they don't take risk anymore.










Have you watch Volver?


----------



## t3chi3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12202480
> 
> 
> There is a lot of people here with Anthem RELIGION.
> 
> 
> Trying it in your setup will be the best for you.
> 
> 
> I run my setup in certain ways that some of the
> 
> RELIGIOUS people here disagree with. But I like
> 
> it my way and they are not here to SEE or HEAR
> 
> what I experience.
> 
> 
> If you don't try - you might be MISSING out on what
> 
> is BEST for YOU.



I hear you but I'm looking for best practices if there are any. I really don't want to go inventing wheels if I can help it. Thanks.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *t3chi3* /forum/post/12198059
> 
> 
> I am using a Sony PS3 to play all of my DVDs and have very few Blu-ray content as of yet. I also have the AVM50 and the Sony Black Pearl 1080p projector.
> 
> 
> Should I output 1080p from my PS3 for normal DVDs or should I output less resolution and let the AVM scale up the image? Am I overthinking?



I have a PS3 that I use for regular DVDs too, and I let the Anthem do all the scaling - the PS3 outputs everything at its native resolution and I think this is the best way to go.


----------



## t3chi3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/12203045
> 
> 
> the PS3 outputs everything at its native resolution and I think this is the best way to go.



Just what I was hoping, thanks.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/12202587
> 
> 
> Don't start me on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with the real world studios is that they don't take risk anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you watch Volver?










Great flick by a great director!


Refreshingly non-Hollywood.


----------



## obie_fl

Just replaced my A1 HD DVD player with an A2 and it is having all kind of problems syncing up. I've been running 1.11g pretty successfully for a while now, guess it is time to update. Speaking of which is there a link for the newer firmware? I emailed Nick but haven't heard back yet.


Anyone running a Toshiba A2? If so what version of firmware ya usin?


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/12207059
> 
> 
> Just replaced my A1 HD DVD player with an A2 and it is having all kind of problems syncing up. I've been running 1.11g pretty successfully for a while now, guess it is time to update. Speaking of which is there a link for the newer firmware? I emailed Nick but haven't heard back yet.
> 
> 
> Anyone running a Toshiba A2? If so what version of firmware ya usin?



I know someone running 1.12s with an A2 and no problems. Give it a try.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/12207059
> 
> 
> Anyone running a Toshiba A2? If so what version of firmware ya usin?



I'm running the latest firmware and an A2. No problems,


----------



## HTfanatic4life

Sorry to throw this in here when there are people with real issues and their D2’s, but I know there are some very knowledgeable folks who hang around in this thread and I’m hoping one of you guys can help me out!


I’ve read too much on 1080p24 lately that I’ve probably read my answer by now but can’t recall what it is or was, when I read it.


I’m eyeing Toshiba’s latest HD DVD player offerings that include discs with the hardware purchase and am very tempted. If I go for one, considering I’ve got a D2 and would envision a 1080p24 display down the road (projector that can refresh @ 24hz or some higher rate), am I ok with the A3? Or should I go with an A30?


I want the raw data from the HD DVD disc on the projector with the least amount of interlacing/de-interlacing going on in between, as possible.


I *think* I read somewhere that the video on HD DVD media is stored at 1080p24 so with an A30, will this be sent straight out? If true, I think I want an A30 then, correct?


Or, am I being too much of a purist here and I should just go for the A3, save some cash, considering the video processing of the D2 is pretty nice and could likely handle 1080i to 1080p24 conversion without issue.


I'd appreciate any input!


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/12208012
> 
> 
> I'm running the latest firmware and an A2. No problems,



No problems with D2 version 1.2 and latest firmware on the A2.


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTfanatic4life* /forum/post/12208890
> 
> 
> Sorry to throw this in here when there are people with real issues and their D2's, but I know there are some very knowledgeable folks who hang around in this thread and I'm hoping one of you guys can help me out!
> 
> 
> I've read too much on 1080p24 lately that I've probably read my answer by now but can't recall what it is or was, when I read it.
> 
> 
> I'm eyeing Toshiba's latest HD DVD player offerings that include discs with the hardware purchase and am very tempted. If I go for one, considering I've got a D2 and would envision a 1080p24 display down the road (projector that can refresh @ 24hz or some higher rate), am I ok with the A3? Or should I go with an A30?
> 
> 
> I want the raw data from the HD DVD disc on the projector with the least amount of interlacing/de-interlacing going on in between, as possible.
> 
> 
> I *think* I read somewhere that the video on HD DVD media is stored at 1080p24 so with an A30, will this be sent straight out? If true, I think I want an A30 then, correct?
> 
> 
> Or, am I being too much of a purist here and I should just go for the A3, save some cash, considering the video processing of the D2 is pretty nice and could likely handle 1080i to 1080p24 conversion without issue.
> 
> 
> I'd appreciate any input!




While the video information on the disc is stored as 1080p I know the A20 which is the predecessor of the A30 read the information as 1080i and then ran the 1080i video through a deinterlacer to output 1080p. This never made sense to me and it resulted in video processing issues. It is my understanding most if not all of the Blu-ray players read the video of the disc as 1080p eliminating the need for a deinterlacing process. I don't know what the XA2 does or the A35 but I am willing to bet these players read the information of the disc as 1080p. I have an Toshiba HD-A2 and a Samsung BD-P1200 and the video output from my A2 deinterlaced by my D2 looks almost identical to the video coming from my BD-P1200 bypassing the D2. This is a testament to the scaler in the D2. I would save the money and buy an A3.


----------



## slots1

I popped for A35 last week and I am very happy with it. Using Marantz S3 outputing 1080i,


No issues at all with the D2.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTfanatic4life* /forum/post/12208890
> 
> 
> Sorry to throw this in here when there are people with real issues and their D2's, but I know there are some very knowledgeable folks who hang around in this thread and I'm hoping one of you guys can help me out!
> 
> 
> I've read too much on 1080p24 lately that I've probably read my answer by now but can't recall what it is or was, when I read it.
> 
> 
> I'm eyeing Toshiba's latest HD DVD player offerings that include discs with the hardware purchase and am very tempted. If I go for one, considering I've got a D2 and would envision a 1080p24 display down the road (projector that can refresh @ 24hz or some higher rate), am I ok with the A3? Or should I go with an A30?
> 
> 
> I want the raw data from the HD DVD disc on the projector with the least amount of interlacing/de-interlacing going on in between, as possible.
> 
> 
> I *think* I read somewhere that the video on HD DVD media is stored at 1080p24 so with an A30, will this be sent straight out? If true, I think I want an A30 then, correct?
> 
> 
> Or, am I being too much of a purist here and I should just go for the A3, save some cash, considering the video processing of the D2 is pretty nice and could likely handle 1080i to 1080p24 conversion without issue.
> 
> 
> I'd appreciate any input!



To the best of my knowledge, the A3 does not support 1080P24. So from a purist's viewpoint it's a no-brainer for the A30.










Just remember, the 24hz improvement is subtle. Don't expect too much.


----------



## obie_fl

Haven't heard back from Nick yet. Anyone willing to Email me a recent firmware release? Please PM me. I need to get this working in the next day or two. Thanks.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12213308
> 
> 
> To the best of my knowledge, the A3 does not support 1080P24. So from a purist's viewpoint it's a no-brainer for the A30.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just remember, the 24hz improvement is subtle. Don't expect too much.



Exactly. We are so used to 60 associated judder that our eyes doesn't catch a big improvement when going 24fps. It is a lot more obvious when you use 24fps for a while and then you go back to 1080p60. Than it become really annoying.


----------



## Milt99

HTFanatic,

When you say "down the road" for a 24p capable display, do you mean 3 months, 6 months, a year?

I'm just saying that if the 24p display is not on the immediate horizon and you want to jump into HD DVD right now, you _may_ just want to get the cheapest player.

If toshiba keeps at their present rate, we will be seeing at least 2 player gens per year.

You may want to wait until Black Friday and see what deals are available then. Word is that Sears will have the A2 for ~165. I'm sure that other retailers will be close or even lower.

If you haven't already done so, I would also recommend looking at the HD DVD player forum to get a feel for the different models etc.

Since I won't be upgrading my pj for another year and it doesn't take 24p, I don't plan on upgrading from the A2 until they add internal DTS codec chips.

The D2 does the heavy lifting and that is perfect for me.

HTH


----------



## obie_fl

Just an update going from firmware V1.11g to V1.21d cured my HD DVD problems, all is well again.







Thanks Jim.


----------



## barhoram

I'm trying to figure out what is causing low bass levels from my Toshiba XA1 HD-DVD player to my D2. I have bass shakers installed in all of my theater seats, and they are barely noticeable on almost all HD-DVD's connected from the XA1 over HDMI. However, when playing the same SD version of the DVD via my 59AVI over HDMI, I get the expected amount of shaking. I tried both Sky Caption and the World of Tomorrow and Transformers on HD-DVD last night, and it is very noticeable. The XA1 is set for PCM out over HDMI, all of the speakers are set to large with 120Hz crossover. I read a while back about a -10db issues on low frequencies, but thought that had been corrected. Any ideas what's going on here??


----------



## runnerlk

Does the AVM 50 support all the latest audio CODECS such as DTS-MA? Also,

can the HDMI switching be set up as a bypass, which would allow the signal to pass through untouched. I am looking to purchase one but have a Calibre Vantage HD2 which provides the scaling. Actually looking for the 50 just for the audio.


Thanks,


Lou


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12222923
> 
> 
> I'm trying to figure out what is causing low bass levels from my Toshiba XA1 HD-DVD player to my D2. I have bass shakers installed in all of my theater seats, and they are barely noticeable on almost all HD-DVD's connected from the XA1 over HDMI. However, when playing the same SD version of the DVD via my 59AVI over HDMI, I get the expected amount of shaking. I tried both Sky Caption and the World of Tomorrow and Transformers on HD-DVD last night, and it is very noticeable. The XA1 is set for PCM out over HDMI, all of the speakers are set to large with 120Hz crossover. I read a while back about a -10db issues on low frequencies, but thought that had been corrected. Any ideas what's going on here??



Just curious did you update to the latest firmware?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12222923
> 
> 
> I'm trying to figure out what is causing low bass levels from my Toshiba XA1 HD-DVD player to my D2. I have bass shakers installed in all of my theater seats, and they are barely noticeable on almost all HD-DVD's connected from the XA1 over HDMI. However, when playing the same SD version of the DVD via my 59AVI over HDMI, I get the expected amount of shaking. I tried both Sky Caption and the World of Tomorrow and Transformers on HD-DVD last night, and it is very noticeable. The XA1 is set for PCM out over HDMI, all of the speakers are set to large with 120Hz crossover. I read a while back about a -10db issues on low frequencies, but thought that had been corrected. Any ideas what's going on here??



There is a whole thread about addressing this in the HD Player forum.


----------



## barhoram

rudolpht,


Thanks. Is there a specifice thread that you know of with a solution? I searched there before coming here an asking. I see about 20 threads on the subject with no real answers. Some say it's an bug with the Toshiba, others say they don't have it, while others say if you disable BM (by setting all speakers to large) there is not an issue. I've tried the solutions, and still can't get it to sound like I think it should with the D2. I was hoping someone with a first gen Toshiba and D2 would chime in with what they did to address the issue.


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12222923
> 
> 
> I'm trying to figure out what is causing low bass levels from my Toshiba XA1 HD-DVD player to my D2. I have bass shakers installed in all of my theater seats, and they are barely noticeable on almost all HD-DVD's connected from the XA1 over HDMI. However, when playing the same SD version of the DVD via my 59AVI over HDMI, I get the expected amount of shaking. I tried both Sky Caption and the World of Tomorrow and Transformers on HD-DVD last night, and it is very noticeable. The XA1 is set for PCM out over HDMI, all of the speakers are set to large with 120Hz crossover. I read a while back about a -10db issues on low frequencies, but thought that had been corrected. Any ideas what's going on here??



As I understand it the LFE bug was resolved with Ver 1.10 software for the AVM50 and D2, so depends on what version you have.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12225442
> 
> 
> rudolpht,
> 
> 
> Thanks. Is there a specifice thread that you know of with a solution? I searched there before coming here an asking. I see about 20 threads on the subject with no real answers. Some say it's an bug with the Toshiba, others say they don't have it, while others say if you disable BM (by setting all speakers to large) there is not an issue. I've tried the solutions, and still can't get it to sound like I think it should with the D2. I was hoping someone with a first gen Toshiba and D2 would chime in with what they did to address the issue.



If you can't find the thread, please ask in the HD-DVD forum. Others in the future looking for the same won't be coming to the D2 thread for HD-DVD players issues. Thanks.


larry


----------



## barhoram

I'm on V 1.11. Guess I'll keep poking around in the HD-DVD forum.


----------



## TREVLAN

quick question...


Which Is better Linear PCM or Dolby true HD.

reason for my question is I am playing 300 bluray from the PS3 to the AVM50 and set to LPCM the audio is 48k running at 4.6 mpbs with not fluctuation.

But on Dolby TRUE HD 48k but runs from 1.7 to 2.3 max mpbs.

I have the PS3 set to Linear PCM and not bitstream.


----------



## abc999

I think they should be the same. Dolby TrueHD is a lossless encoding/decoding process that makes the digital audio signal into a more efficient use of valuable disc space. PCM is the raw digital audio signal that is encoded/decoded by the Dolby process.


My 2 cents


Alvin


----------



## Mukha




> Quote:
> LPCM the audio is 48k running at 4.6 mpbs with not fluctuation.
> 
> But on Dolby TRUE HD 48k but runs from 1.7 to 2.3 max mpbs



LPCM is the base audio file that compression codecs encode and is set at a certain number of bits representing the original audio signal sampled at a certain rate (in your case 48k or 48 thousand times a second). Based on the 4.6mbps final bitrate we can see that the bit depth in your case was 16 (16 bits x 6 channels of sound x 48 000 samples a second = 4 600 000 bits or 4.6mpbs).


Ok, now my own problem and question, I have had a quick search but can't seem to find the answer in this thread.


Yesterday I tried setting up a D2 with a playstation 3 for blu-ray playback. I Installed the latest update (1.21d) which went flawlessly, but I can't get any sound over HDMI. D2 previously worked perfectly with a Denon 3930 dvd player on that HDMI input and I used pretty much the same settings for the PS3. Apart from the name I can't see much else that could change? I have the playstation 3 set up for passthrough of LPCM (BDs tried include POTC : Dead Man's Chest and BHD).


I had HDMI Repeater set to yes and Auto Dig set to on and now I have read here that these settings can cause problems, could this possibly be causing the problem? Note that I couldn't get any sound whatsoever from the ps3 but test tones with the D2 work fine. Sorry if this problem has already been covered - would it be possible to update the first post with common problems and their solutions?


Also, on a sort of related question. What would be the optimal picture quality setup options in the PS3 and D2 for passthrough to an Infocus IN82? I currently have the PS3 outputting studio RGB to the D2 (ps3 option calls it limited RGB) which is then sent through to the IN82 as Studio RGB. PS3 has an option for YCrCb but doesn't say what chroma upsampling has been done.


Edit: Ok, I realized I should clarify my colour space question a bit more. Bob's previous posts in this thread helped alot but I still have a few questions about 10 bit video. When is the conversion from 8bit to 10bit samples actually done? I take it there's no benefit in converting a final 8 bit studio rgb to 10 bit, but wouldn't there be a benefit by converting before any chroma upsampling or deinterlacing when 10 bits would best represent the newly calculated chroma samples or fields? Or is the benefit from passing 8 bit 4:4:4 YCrCb to the display and then having it convert it back to a 10bit RGB? Seeing as how the anthem has a great de-interlacer and we can't yet pass 10bit samples around would the best compromise be passing a deinterlaced 4:2:2 to the display or would it make no difference to pass de-interlaced 4:4:4? Or have I got this all wrong?


----------



## PooperScooper

The 8bit->10bit "jump" is a big win when scaling, less so when just deinterlacing. And just about all your sources start out as 8bit YCbCr 4:2:0 so that the RGB vs YCbCr 4:4:4 and YCbCr 4:2:2 comes into play when doing 10bit video which can only be YCbCr 4:2:2 passing over HDMI into or out of the D2. Other than that you won't see any difference with with real world viewing between YCbCr or RGB (except of course when 10bit video is used and when correct video levels are not preserved).


larry


----------



## Joe C5

Mukha - I'm not at home to check, but since I have used the same firmware and it works fine with my PS3, I suspect you need to go into the settings of the PS3 and turn on audio over HDMI. I seem to vaugely remember some such setting...


----------



## Kensmith48

I ordered an Anthem D2 on 11-1-07 and still haven't rec'd it. If anyone recently ordered could you tell me how long it takes. Since I live approx. 100 miles from the Canadian border I didn't think it would take so long. My dealer told me 7 days from the purchase date I should have it. He also told me that his distributor is receiving 3-4 a week and that they are all sold. He said Anthem doesn't have a warehouse with a huge supply. Everyone made has been sold. Anyway he said I'm #3 on the list so if his distributor receives 3 or 4 this week I should get mine. Well Friday has come and gone and still no D2. Anyone have a clue?

Thanks,

Ken


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/12242759
> 
> 
> I ordered an Anthem D2 on 11-1-07 and still haven't rec'd it. If anyone recently ordered could you tell me how long it takes. Since I live approx. 100 miles from the Canadian border I didn't think it would take so long. My dealer told me 7 days from the purchase date I should have it. He also told me that his distributor is receiving 3-4 a week and that they are all sold. He said Anthem doesn't have a warehouse with a huge supply. Everyone made has been sold. Anyway he said I'm #3 on the list so if his distributor receives 3 or 4 this week I should get mine. Well Friday has come and gone and still no D2. Anyone have a clue?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



Only your dealer/distributor knows for sure.


Many of us early adopters waited 6-8 weeks for ours.


The backlog is probably better now - but they are a HOT ITEM.


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/12242759
> 
> 
> I ordered an Anthem D2 on 11-1-07 and still haven't rec'd it. If anyone recently ordered could you tell me how long it takes. Since I live approx. 100 miles from the Canadian border I didn't think it would take so long. My dealer told me 7 days from the purchase date I should have it. He also told me that his distributor is receiving 3-4 a week and that they are all sold. He said Anthem doesn't have a warehouse with a huge supply. Everyone made has been sold. Anyway he said I'm #3 on the list so if his distributor receives 3 or 4 this week I should get mine. Well Friday has come and gone and still no D2. Anyone have a clue?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



I live in Canada and its a 7 hours drive to Toronto (where they are shipped). I ordered my D2 on 7 Nov & it arrived on 13 Nov. Mind you yours must go through the border.


Its well worth the wait! Love my D2 and an still tweaking/playing with it at the moment


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/12242759
> 
> 
> I ordered an Anthem D2 on 11-1-07 and still haven't rec'd it. If anyone recently ordered could you tell me how long it takes. Since I live approx. 100 miles from the Canadian border I didn't think it would take so long. My dealer told me 7 days from the purchase date I should have it. He also told me that his distributor is receiving 3-4 a week and that they are all sold. He said Anthem doesn't have a warehouse with a huge supply. Everyone made has been sold. Anyway he said I'm #3 on the list so if his distributor receives 3 or 4 this week I should get mine. Well Friday has come and gone and still no D2. Anyone have a clue?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



Odd. Here in the NY/NJ area Anthem ships directly to the dealer. As far as I am aware, Anthem doesn't use distributors to ship but maybe it's different in other parts of the country. Last time i placed an order it took around 3 weeks or so - and that was for the 17-1/4 special order. They could be low on stock of course. Regardless, it's worth the wait.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12243502
> 
> 
> Its well worth the wait! Love my D2 and an still tweaking/playing with it at the moment



I don't remember if you got your Anthem Mascots --


----------



## AnthemAVM

Any update on this subject?


I just got FIOS and the Motorola box and D2 don't play well together.


Michae



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11459493
> 
> 
> I believe this is the second report we've had of such problems since that new Verizon software was pushed out.
> 
> 
> You should probably give Anthem tech support a call/email and ask for the latest software (probably V1.12s). That newer software has a completely rewritten HDMI portion and may be more robust in the face of whatever that new Verizon software is doing. Tell Anthem about your recent problems with the new Verizon software please. This one may need some special attention on their part.
> 
> 
> As for your problems BEFORE that Verizon update, Verizon uses Motorola boxes that are also used by cable providers such as Comcast. These boxes are notorious for their lousy HDMI implementation. One common theme is that the box resets itself to its defaults whenever it gets confused in any fashion.
> 
> 
> 
> Any update on this, just got FIOS installed, and having a terrible handshake problem.
> 
> 
> Looks like I am going back to componet and optical cables.
> 
> 
> Michael
> 
> The first thing you should try is to upgrade/shorten the HDMI cable from the FIOS box to the Anthem. The HDMI driver circuit Motorola uses is ridiculously sensitive to anything less than a pristine perfect connection.
> 
> 
> Next, make sure you have Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO and Auto-Dig = NO set in the Anthem for that input. This simplifies what the FIOS box has to do each time it does the HDMI handshake.
> 
> 
> Another common solution with these Motorola boxes is to give up on their HDMI and switch to Component video and optical audio connections to the Anthem. Be prepared to have to recalibrate the video input level settings for best picture quality in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Picture menu). The best settings for HDMI input and Component input will likely be different.
> 
> 
> Also, if you set the box to only put out one video resolution to the Anthem, it won't have to re-do the HDMI handshake as often. Of course this means you will not get as good video as you could get.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12245171
> 
> 
> Any update on this subject?
> 
> 
> I just got FIOS and the Motorola box and D2 don't play well together.
> 
> 
> Michae



Use the Component outputs from the Moto box.


----------



## wabbit636

Need help...


If anyone has experienced this problem please let me know how to fix it.


When watching DVDs, once in a while (about every 30 minutes) at approx. the same place (1/3 down the screen) a horizontal line appears on the screen for a few seconds and then disappears.


I have tried different outputs ie 4:2:2 etc but no luck.


Anyone know the quick fix?


I will provide more detail if required to help trouble shoot otherwise I will be calling tech support.


Thanks


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/12245568
> 
> 
> 
> I will provide more detail if required to help trouble shoot otherwise I will be calling tech support.
> 
> 
> Thanks



You can do both, but either will require much more info. What is the source device, what is the connection to the anthem, what is the connection to the projector or TV?


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12243577
> 
> 
> Odd. Here in the NY/NJ area Anthem ships directly to the dealer. As far as I am aware, Anthem doesn't use distributors to ship but maybe it's different in other parts of the country. Last time i placed an order it took around 3 weeks or so - and that was for the 17-1/4 special order. They could be low on stock of course. Regardless, it's worth the wait.



I'm pretty sure my dealer said they come through a distributer in Buffalo, NY for here in Mass.


larry


----------



## rsnodgrass

Will a Room Eq software upgrade ever be available for the AVM-50/D2? I've seen the past rumors but can't find a more recent answer. Thanks!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsnodgrass* /forum/post/12250682
> 
> 
> Will a Room Eq software upgrade ever be available for the AVM-50/D2? I've seen the past rumors but can't find a more recent answer. Thanks!



For the D2 - YES


for the AVM50 - No


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsnodgrass* /forum/post/12250682
> 
> 
> Will a Room Eq software upgrade ever be available for the AVM-50/D2? I've seen the past rumors but can't find a more recent answer. Thanks!



It is not a rumors, Anthem is actively working on it to be delivered soon. How soon this is the unknown we need to be patient. As mentioned by drhankz it will only be available for the D2. Just that feature alone will justify the price difference between the D2 and the AVM50.


----------



## JeffDL

anyone running a newer XBOX 360 through HDMI to the D2? I can't seem to get the D2 to pick up the 360 when set to 5.1. Will only pick up the 2 channel audio from the 360. My D2 is running the latest 1.21 code and my 360 is up to date.


----------



## Ian_Currie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDL* /forum/post/12261057
> 
> 
> anyone running a newer XBOX 360 through HDMI to the D2? I can't seem to get the D2 to pick up the 360 when set to 5.1. Will only pick up the 2 channel audio from the 360. My D2 is running the latest 1.21 code and my 360 is up to date.



I am... but I often have to turn the D2 off and on again for it to sync.


----------



## Kensmith48

My dealer finally called and left a message stating that my D2 has been shipped from around the Buffalo, NY area yesterday. No mention of a local distributor (go figure). Anyway the dealer says I might get it tomorrow. Here's hoping. It looks like the 1 week was really almost 3 weeks.


----------



## brado32

Hi, not sure if this has been discussed..


Will the AVM50 pass or provide HDCP. .


I have a HTPC connected to my avm50 via hdmi and then to a sony perl..


I cant play HD and BD from it becuase my display fails the hdcp check??


Now as far as the HTPC is concernced, my display is the anthem, right??


at a loss here..


thanks


-Brad


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32* /forum/post/12267926
> 
> 
> Hi, not sure if this has been discussed..
> 
> 
> have a HTPC connected to my avm50 via hdmi and then to a sony perl..
> 
> 
> I cant play HD and BD from it becuase my display fails the hdcp check??
> 
> -Brad



There is NOW WAY IN THE WORLD the Sony PEARL

Will EVER FAIL a HDCP check.


----------



## brado32

ok, so is the anthem failing hdcp then??


-Brad


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/12267120
> 
> 
> My dealer finally called and left a message stating that my D2 has been shipped from around the Buffalo, NY area yesterday. No mention of a local distributor (go figure). Anyway the dealer says I might get it tomorrow. Here's hoping. It looks like the 1 week was really almost 3 weeks.



Buffalo, NY is where Anthem ships their products from - at least for a good portion of the US. Is the unit going to you directly or the dealer first? Anthem gives the dealer tracking numbers via email.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32* /forum/post/12270643
> 
> 
> ok, so is the anthem failing hdcp then??
> 
> 
> -Brad



That ain't going to happen either.


I'd suspect your HDMI cable from the Anthem

to the Pearl.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32* /forum/post/12267926
> 
> 
> Hi, not sure if this has been discussed..
> 
> 
> Will the AVM50 pass or provide HDCP. .
> 
> 
> I have a HTPC connected to my avm50 via hdmi and then to a sony perl..
> 
> 
> I cant play HD and BD from it becuase my display fails the hdcp check??
> 
> 
> Now as far as the HTPC is concernced, my display is the anthem, right??
> 
> 
> at a loss here..
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> -Brad




Brad,


There are a number of issues with PCs/HTPCs through the AVM-50 and a wide number of receivers. Usually these can be corrected through a "DVIgenie" to pass correct EDID codes to sync the display and the computer. This is the more prevalent PC issue through a receiver to a display device.


I switch my PC to the projector AFTER the anthem, ie there is a PC & an Anthem input into a high bandwidth switch to the projector.


The only way HDCP should come into play with an HTPC is IF you are playing protected content AND have an HDCP supported video card. The Anthem should pass through the tokens (try setting HDMI repeater to OFF).


Tim


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12271086
> 
> 
> Brad,
> 
> 
> There are a number of issues with PCs/HTPCs through the AVM-50 and a wide number of receivers. Usually these can be corrected through a "DVIgenie" to pass correct EDID codes to sync the display and the computer. This is the more prevalent PC issue through a receiver to a display device.
> 
> 
> I switch my PC to the projector AFTER the anthem, ie there is a PC & an Anthem input into a high bandwidth switch to the projector.
> 
> 
> The only way HDCP should come into play with an HTPC is IF you are playing protected content AND have an HDCP supported video card. The Anthem should pass through the tokens (try setting HDMI repeater to OFF).
> 
> 
> Tim



Tim - You should NOTE Brad's Statement ---


I cant play HD and BD from it becuase my display fails the hdcp check??


I incorrectly assumed he could not play HD or BD from

his HD or BD Players. I missed the fact he was trying

to play HD or BD from his HTPC. Oops Me


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12271164
> 
> 
> Tim - You should NOTE Brad's Statement ---
> 
> 
> I cant play HD and BD from it becuase my display fails the hdcp check??
> 
> 
> I incorrectly assumed he could not play HD or BD from
> 
> his HD or BD Players. I missed the fact he was trying
> 
> to play HD or BD from his HTPC. Oops Me



Good catch. I missed that one.


So I assume the HTPC has both an HD DVD and Blu-ray drive?


What video card with HDCP is being used?


EDID may still be an issue if the video res is potentially different than desktop. Does the HTPC work correctly going direct to the display device? (If so it's likely the HDMI repeater setting and/or EDID). If not, recommend heading to the HTPC forum as it's likely the Anthem is not the cause of the issue.


Tim


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12271324
> 
> 
> Good catch. I missed that one.



Ya - so did I the first time. It was only your response

that got me to read it AGAIN - Duh.


----------



## brado32

Appreciate all the help and belive me I have been thru the HTPC forum










So, I do have a LG drive that does both HD and Blue-ray.. I have an nvidia 8600, which is HDCP compliant.. I am using powerdvd ultra to play content from the the PC. I already have a dvigenie (edid) was another issue I had..


SO, I could be looking in the wrong place (anthem), but there seems to be a little more clue over here










Cyblerlink has a little utility that checks your machine for full HD/BD compliance and my display keeps failing hdcp check..


I will try turning hdmi repeater off and see what happens.. I guess I could connect my pc directly to my sony and see if it works as well..


thanks again


-BRad


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32* /forum/post/12271586
> 
> 
> 
> Cyblerlink has a little utility that checks your machine for full HD/BD compliance and my display keeps failing hdcp check..
> 
> 
> I will try turning hdmi repeater off and see what happens.. I guess I could connect my pc directly to my sony and see if it works as well..
> 
> 
> 
> -BRad



Brad,


You are a step ahead. Glad to hear you got the EDID issue solved.


Can you check firmware rev on the vid card too (and the drive for that matter). Is it an HDMI vs DVI? Getting the Anthem out of the loop is the best way to eliminate the issue. Worst case you can switch it separate from the Anthem, but it sounds like something else is causing issues.


----------



## rajman

I've been following this thread recently as I am awaiting receipt of my upgraded AVM 20. I will also be looking for a projector in the near future to replace my ancient Sanyo PLV Z2...most likely a JVC RS1. I was wondering if my (soon to be) AVM 50 is capable of doing a vertical stretch output to allow CIH viewing if I chose to go to a 2.35:1 screen. Looking through the online manual at Anthem does not appear to show this as an option so I am thinking that it will not be possible. Thank you for any help.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajman* /forum/post/12275840
> 
> 
> I've been following this thread recently as I am awaiting receipt of my upgraded AVM 20. I will also be looking for a projector in the near future to replace my ancient Sanyo PLV Z2...most likely a JVC RS1. I was wondering if my (soon to be) AVM 50 is capable of doing a vertical stretch output to allow CIH viewing if I chose to go to a 2.35:1 screen. Looking through the online manual at Anthem does not appear to show this as an option so I am thinking that it will not be possible. Thank you for any help.



It is indeed possible, but it's a stiff upgrade cost. I would also hang for the RS2 projector which is close.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajman* /forum/post/12275840
> 
> 
> I've been following this thread recently as I am awaiting receipt of my upgraded AVM 20. I will also be looking for a projector in the near future to replace my ancient Sanyo PLV Z2...most likely a JVC RS1. I was wondering if my (soon to be) AVM 50 is capable of doing a vertical stretch output to allow CIH viewing if I chose to go to a 2.35:1 screen. Looking through the online manual at Anthem does not appear to show this as an option so I am thinking that it will not be possible. Thank you for any help.



As *Bob "P"* Would say - I think the stretching info

is in the very FIRST POST of this thread.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajman* /forum/post/12275840
> 
> 
> I've been following this thread recently as I am awaiting receipt of my upgraded AVM 20. I will also be looking for a projector in the near future to replace my ancient Sanyo PLV Z2...most likely a JVC RS1. I was wondering if my (soon to be) AVM 50 is capable of doing a vertical stretch output to allow CIH viewing if I chose to go to a 2.35:1 screen. Looking through the online manual at Anthem does not appear to show this as an option so I am thinking that it will not be possible. Thank you for any help.



Basically you use the custom setting in the processor to crop the specific input by adjusting (i.e. stretching) the vertical to 810 and use the anamorphic lens to optically stretch the image. It was posted earlier in this thread.


Here is some fun reading: http://www.panamorph.com/TrueWidescreen.html


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/8055983
> 
> 
> I use a Xantech 791-44 amplified connection block, which is similar to your 789-44. I simply connected to the IR *Input* and ground on the block to the D2. Works great here.



Currently, an emitter from my Xantech CB60 connecting block is taped to an IR receiver (a Xantech Dinky Link), and the IR receiver is connected to the IR input in the back of my D2. I'd prefer not to have to use the Xantech Dinky Link IR receiver.


I recently purchased the Xantech 791-44 amplified connecting block ( http://www.xantech.com/products/ir_products/079144.htm ). I want to connect it directly to the IR input in the back of my D2 without having to use the Xantech Dinky Link IR receiver. How exactly do I connect the 791-44 to the D2? Do I connect a 3.5mm mono (or stereo?) plug on the 791-44 and on the other end, strip it and connect it to the D2's IR block (if so, what are the details of how to do this - not sure which wire goes where)? Also, do you use the High or Low power setting in the 791-44?


Thanks.


----------



## chas

My D2 went back to Canada to replace a defective HDMI jack. When it returned, the display said it was a D1-HD, rather than a D2. The only other aggravation was the OSD--it stayed on for thirty seconds or so, no matter what length of time I dialed in. I just turned it off. Because everything else seemed fine, I left it alone. Anthem said the next firmware revision would take care of the issues.


Recently, I've installed updates to my Toshiba HD-XA1 and PS3. I wasn't quite satisfied with the audio and Anthem tech support sent me 1.21d, which was supposed to correct all the problems. I used the "belt and suspenders" upgrade technique recommended in this thread.


The OSD is still prolonged, although not quite as much. The sound is better to my ear. (maybe wishful thinking...) The unit is a D2 again. The display shows software version 1.21d.


However, I now have a real problem with video. Approximately three quarters of the time, the D2 will not make a video connection with my display. This was never a problem before. I can see video after turning the power off and on to all components. Sometimes I see video after turning only the D2 off and on--sometimes not. On the times that the video is good, all the other sources switch and display appropriately. The same settings worked prior to the update to 1.21d--I had 1.11 before.


My setup is


D2 via HDMI to Fujitsu plasma.


SA 8300HD cable box via HDMI to D2.

Toshiba HD-XA1 via HDMI to D2.

PS3 via HDMI to D2.

Marantz DV7600 SACD/DVAudio via component and 6-channel analog to D2.

Apple TV via component and optical to D2.


HDMI repeater is set to NO for all HDMI inputs. Auto Dig is set to NO for all digital inputs.


Any suggestions? Thanks.


C.


----------



## rajman

Thank you for the response. I didn't appreciate what the crop function could do but now I understand how versatile it is.


----------



## djhamilton

I have read the Future Proof receiver stuff and I get that the decoding is done at the player for TrueHD and maybe someday DTS-MA and passes over LPCM to the AVM50 in my case. My question is, since I have a 7.2 speaker setup, my understanding is the AVM50 can only do 5.1 LPCM NOT 7.1 LPCM.


Am I missing out due to this?


I don't quite understand, but seems 7.1 LPCM would be better than 5.1 LPCM.


Thanks,


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djhamilton* /forum/post/12280995
> 
> 
> I have read the Future Proof receiver stuff and I get that the decoding is done at the player for TrueHD and maybe someday DTS-MA and passes over LPCM to the AVM50 in my case. My question is, since I have a 7.2 speaker setup, my understanding is the AVM50 can only do 5.1 LPCM NOT 7.1 LPCM.
> 
> 
> Am I missing out due to this?
> 
> 
> I don't quite understand, but seems 7.1 LPCM would be better than 5.1 LPCM.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



Can you list any titles that have a 7.1 soundtrack?


Just let the Anthem decode the 5.1 LPCM to 7.1.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Approximately three quarters of the time, the D2 will not make a video connection with my display.



When switching between components, power up, what?? Is the plasma powered up first? What input is current when powering up the D2 when it fails?


larry


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djhamilton* /forum/post/12280995
> 
> 
> ...my understanding is the AVM50 can only do 5.1 LPCM NOT 7.1 LPCM.
> 
> 
> Am I missing out due to this?
> 
> 
> I don't quite understand, but seems 7.1 LPCM would be better than 5.1 LPCM.



Your understanding is correct. The AVM-50 & D2 cannot do 8 channel PCM (7.1), but the 5.1 can be post processed with ProLogic IIx or other extrapolation techniques. It will not get 7 real channels. This is mostly do to start of the art chips and equipment only doing 6 channels of PCM at time of design. The Anthems will not do High Bit Rate in receiver decoding of TrueHD or codecs passed by bitstream to the pre/pro.


Now the good news is the quality of what is does, and the paucity of software having 8 discrete channels. (The True HD is a bigger loss to me than the true 7+1 channels.


Tim


----------



## chas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12281172
> 
> 
> When switching between components, power up, what?? Is the plasma powered up first? What input is current when powering up the D2 when it fails?
> 
> 
> larry




I don't get video with the initial power-up. The system is activated via a Crestron unit installed by a pro--certainly not me! It appears to my eye that the D2 is activated first. It is simultaneous or nearly simultaneous with the display and HD-DVD. The SACD player is next. The Apple TV is always active. The cable box is activated electively.


I have noticed that the "boot time" for 1.21d seems longer than 1.11--is it possible that the sequence of activation has been altered and the D2 is "off-schedule"? I never had start-up problems with 1.11.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/12281751
> 
> 
> I don't get video with the initial power-up. The system is activated via a Crestron unit installed by a pro--certainly not me! It appears to my eye that the D2 is activated first. It is simultaneous or nearly simultaneous with the display and HD-DVD. The SACD player is next. The Apple TV is always active. The cable box is activated electively.
> 
> 
> I have noticed that the "boot time" for 1.21d seems longer than 1.11--is it possible that the sequence of activation has been altered and the D2 is "off-schedule"? I never had start-up problems with 1.11.



It does the same to me more than 50%. [This is where Hank pos in and says I use the production release from the 1940s and have never had a problem







]I have to get up, go to the back room and recycle power multiple times. Frustrating. I prep everything ahead of time if folks come by to watch a movie and I don't get chided for my problems with my big expensive system. Note: 1.21b may be more stable for you.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12281838
> 
> 
> It does the same to me more than 50%. [This is where Hank pos in and says I use the production release from the 1940s and have never had a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]I have to get up, go to the back room and recycle power multiple times. Frustrating. I prep everything ahead of time if folks come by to watch a movie and I don't get chided for my problems with my big expensive system. Note: 1.21b may be more stable for you.



Your *RIGHT TIM* - that would STINK.










Like you said I use the 1940's adition of the FW and

it works Perfectly in my THEATER.


It may be another century before Anthem Convinces

me to update.


Or Maybe when my Samsung comes - it won't work


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/12281751
> 
> 
> I don't get video with the initial power-up. The system is activated via a Crestron unit installed by a pro--certainly not me! It appears to my eye that the D2 is activated first. It is simultaneous or nearly simultaneous with the display and HD-DVD. The SACD player is next. The Apple TV is always active. The cable box is activated electively.
> 
> 
> I have noticed that the "boot time" for 1.21d seems longer than 1.11--is it possible that the sequence of activation has been altered and the D2 is "off-schedule"? I never had start-up problems with 1.11.




Similar situation here... FW versions 1.11e or earlier never had startup issues. The startup issue (for me: no audio/video, including OSD, from the D2 requiring one or more reboots of the D2 to correct) started with FW version 1.12 on ... I always reverted back to 1.11e because of this.


Now with 1.21d upon startup I have noticed that at least the OSD of the D2 is always outputting (so far at least) but on occasion the video/audio from the start up source device is absent and a quick input switch will get it going. On still rarer occasions, the Motorola 6412 (when starting up watching cable) will display audio/video but overlayed with a message from the 6412 that I am not connected to a HDCP compliant device (again, a quick input switch will clear this up).


Rather frustrating that these issues as well as others (for example, JVC 5U D-VHS hasn't worked over HDMI since rev 1.11) linger or come and go with different firmware versions well over a year after introduction of the D2 (I've had mine since July of 06).


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/12277661
> 
> 
> Currently, an emitter from my Xantech CB60 connecting block is taped to an IR receiver (a Xantech Dinky Link), and the IR receiver is connected to the IR input in the back of my D2. I'd prefer not to have to use the Xantech Dinky Link IR receiver.
> 
> 
> I recently purchased the Xantech 791-44 amplified connecting block ( http://www.xantech.com/products/ir_products/079144.htm ). I want to connect it directly to the IR input in the back of my D2 without having to use the Xantech Dinky Link IR receiver. How exactly do I connect the 791-44 to the D2? Do I connect a 3.5mm mono (or stereo?) plug on the 791-44 and on the other end, strip it and connect it to the D2's IR block (if so, what are the details of how to do this - not sure which wire goes where)? Also, do you use the High or Low power setting in the 791-44?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I don't have the Xantech, but most IR repeaters work similarly.


The D2 has both IR outputs/triggers (to control other devices) that use 3.5mm plugs, and an IR input block (to control the D2) remotely, that uses stripped wires. You'll be using the latter.


I ran an ordinary small-gauge wire pair from my external IR repeater block (like your Xantech) to the D2's removable terminal block. If you need a 3.5mm plug at the Xantech end, you can purchase a suitable cheap cable at any Radio shack and cut one of the plug ends off (or buy a cable with a plug at only one end). It's a mono (not stereo) cable with only 2 conductors.


At the D2, stick the signal wire into the "1" (or if it's already being used, the "2" or "3") terminal block opening and screw it down. Then plug the ground wire into the ground (far right) terminal block opening and screw it down.


If you're converting from a 3.5mm plug at the Xantech end, the tip of the plug should electrically carry the signal wire, and the outside plug connector will be the ground.


After making the electrical connections, don't forget to program/activate the IR terminal block input that you used ("1", "2", or "3") in Menu 10e "Set IR Inputs."


Hope this helps...

- Dave


----------



## chas

It may be chance or a false alarm, but I've had several hours and 12-15 restarts with perfect synchronization. The only changes that I made were
change Anthem video out config 1 color space to "Auto"
changed all source video configs to "1" from "last used".


I confirmed by changing the color space back to HDTV--and I lost video again.


So "Auto" appears to be required instead of "HDTV", even though the entire chain is 1080i to a HDTV... at least, that's how it seems to work on my system.


C.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/12283611
> 
> 
> It may be chance or a false alarm, but I've had several hours and 12-15 restarts with perfect synchronization. The only changes that I made were
> change Anthem video out config 1 color space to "Auto"
> changed all source video configs to "1" from "last used".
> 
> 
> I confirmed by changing the color space back to HDTV--and I lost video again.
> 
> 
> So "Auto" appears to be required instead of "HDTV", even though the entire chain is 1080i to a HDTV... at least, that's how it seems to work on my system.
> 
> 
> C.



The Auto sometimes goes bad on me still (so I toggle StudioRGB to ExtendedRGB and back, but thanks for the pointer on last used (but I think I have that set).


EDIT: DIDN'T WORK AUTO (Colorspace)


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/12282776
> 
> 
> I don't have the Xantech, but most IR repeaters work similarly.
> 
> 
> The D2 has both IR outputs/triggers (to control other devices) that use 3.5mm plugs, and an IR input block (to control the D2) remotely, that uses stripped wires. You'll be using the latter.
> 
> 
> I ran an ordinary small-gauge wire pair from my external IR repeater block (like your Xantech) to the D2's removable terminal block. If you need a 3.5mm plug at the Xantech end, you can purchase a suitable cheap cable at any Radio shack and cut one of the plug ends off (or buy a cable with a plug at only one end). It's a mono (not stereo) cable with only 2 conductors.
> 
> 
> At the D2, stick the signal wire into the "1" (or if it's already being used, the "2" or "3") terminal block opening and screw it down. Then plug the ground wire into the ground (far right) terminal block opening and screw it down.
> 
> 
> If you're converting from a 3.5mm plug at the Xantech end, the tip of the plug should electrically carry the signal wire, and the outside plug connector will be the ground.
> 
> 
> After making the electrical connections, don't forget to program/activate the IR terminal block input that you used ("1", "2", or "3") in Menu 10e "Set IR Inputs."
> 
> 
> Hope this helps...
> 
> - Dave



Thanks for the detailed reply! I'll give it a try.


----------



## ravichopra

A summary of the problem to this point:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post12153456 


So in the end it seemed like a hardware problem. It was a pre-owned unit I was thinking about buying, so I gave up on it and returned it to the owner.


I still wanted the AVM 50, though, as it's got pretty much everything I'm looking for in a not-absurdly priced package. So I sucked it up and went down to a dealer and bought a brand new AVM 50 - still sealed in the box from the factory, took it home, hooked it up, set it up for 1080i/60 and...


Vertical picture shaking.


Sigh.


So it appears to be a general issue with the AVM 50 outputting 1080i/60 over component (don't have HDMI on my TV, so can't test it). Firmware updates from Anthem haven't helped.


I've got anther distress call e-mail out to Anthem and the dealer is going to give them a call on my behalf as well to try to sort this out.


Is anyone else out there successfully running an AVM 50 at 1080i/60 out? Has anyone out there tried this unit with an older HDTV, particularly a CRT-based unit?


Very discouraged.

-Ravi Chopra


Addendum: I just hooked the AVM 50 up to an old Samsung 30" direct-view CRT HDTV I have in the basement - again 1080i/60 via component (50" run). No video shaking in this case. Very very strange...


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/12281751
> 
> 
> I don't get video with the initial power-up. The system is activated via a Crestron unit installed by a pro--certainly not me! It appears to my eye that the D2 is activated first. It is simultaneous or nearly simultaneous with the display and HD-DVD. The SACD player is next. The Apple TV is always active. The cable box is activated electively.
> 
> 
> I have noticed that the "boot time" for 1.21d seems longer than 1.11--is it possible that the sequence of activation has been altered and the D2 is "off-schedule"? I never had start-up problems with 1.11.



With 1.21d I don't have issues with the D2 connecting to my Fujitsu plasma when the plasma is powered up and active on the DVI input when powering up the D2. Since HDCP came into play years ago the rule of thumb is for the target (display) to be ready before the source because the source starts the handshaking. If I switch between the component input on the plasma (for TivoHD) and back to the DVI port the D2 will not resync most of the time (maybe all the time now with latest firmware) but switching away from the current D2 input and back causes it to resync ok.


larry


----------



## Tolstoi




djhamilton said:


> I have read the Future Proof receiver stuff and I get that the decoding is done at the player for TrueHD and maybe someday DTS-MA and passes over LPCM to the AVM50 in my case. My question is, since I have a 7.2 speaker setup, my understanding is the AVM50 can only do 5.1 LPCM NOT 7.1 LPCM.
> 
> 
> Am I missing out due to this?
> 
> 
> I don't quite understand, but seems 7.1 LPCM would be better than 5.1 LPCM.
> 
> 
> Thanks,[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> Blu-Ray players that are capable to internally decode DTS-MA will be announced at CES (Jan 08) and schedule for shipping before summer 08. As a result, there is a window of around 6 months without DTS-MA capability for AVM50 and D2 owners. Lost of 1st and 2nd generation Blu-Ray owner like I am are waiting for these players to shown up before upgrading. DTS-MA is barely used on HD-DVD mostly on European import.
> 
> 
> It makes more sense to upgrade the player since it is a lot less expensive than upgrading a pre/pro to get DTS-MA. Furthermore, new players are a lot faster which is also driving the change for a new player. With Disney going crazy on Java Coding on their titles they give us no choice but to upgrade our player in the next 12 mounts. These titles take for ever to load on 1st and 2nd gen players.
> 
> 
> Regardless of all the belts whistle, when you listen to the AVM50 or D2, the audio quality and performance is just amazing. Isn't why we buy a AVM50, D2 or any other high end Pre/pro in the first place?
> 
> 
> My recommendation is that if you like the AVM50 sound performance go with it on don't be worried with DTS-MA, etc.. Time will take care of them when properly design player will finally come out. When I say time I mean 6-8 mounts.


----------



## shah993




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12281462
> 
> 
> Your understanding is correct. The AVM-50 & D2 cannot do 8 channel PCM (7.1), but the 5.1 can be post processed with ProLogic IIx or other extrapolation techniques. It will not get 7 real channels. This is mostly do to start of the art chips and equipment only doing 6 channels of PCM at time of design. The Anthems will not do High Bit Rate in receiver decoding of TrueHD or codecs passed by bitstream to the pre/pro.
> 
> 
> Now the good news is the quality of what is does, and the paucity of software having 8 discrete channels. (The True HD is a bigger loss to me than the true 7+1 channels.
> 
> 
> Tim



Sorry I still dont understand!I see the new onkyo dvd player does decode trueHD so the D2 wont have to but will the D2 be able to pass on the signal to a 7.1 setup?Pl pardon my ignorance.!!.I know currently there is a paucity of 7.1 encoded material but what about the future or do we get the D3?


----------



## jayray

So with the AVM50 and a properly outputting of DTS MA decoded in the player, we will get the benefit of this format?

John


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/12287099
> 
> 
> So with the AVM50 and a properly outputting of DTS MA decoded in the player, we will get the benefit of this format?
> 
> John



Yes.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/12287040
> 
> 
> Sorry I still dont understand!I see the new onkyo dvd player does decode trueHD so the D2 wont have to but will the D2 be able to pass on the signal to a 7.1 setup?Pl pardon my ignorance.!!.I know currently there is a paucity of 7.1 encoded material but what about the future or do we get the D3?




You will not get 7.1 decoded material nor the Receiver only formats, e.g. Master Audio lossless until the D3.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/12287099
> 
> 
> So with the AVM50 and a properly outputting of DTS MA decoded in the player, we will get the benefit of this format?
> 
> John



The answer is a little more nuanced, though most players will not or never will do DTS-MA decoding (e.g, BDP-HD1, 94HD, 95HD - only the later will even push it out bitstream to a different than Anthem player to decode).


More to the point, IF a player can decode DTS-MA 8 channel (7.1) the answer is NO, but you can get 6 channel PCM (5.1) and make up the rear surrounds.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Question for the guru's. I just got a Sony KDS-60A3000 1080p TV. I cannot get 1080p out of the anthem D2 to the TV by component or HDMI. I also have a Sony projector and 1080p over hdmi works fine. I have read thru the video settings on pg1 and still can't figure it out.


Any ideas?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12287540
> 
> 
> You will not get 7.1 decoded material nor the Receiver only formats, e.g. Master Audio lossless until the D3.



And what is the value of decoding DTS-MA in the receiver vs the player. There are zillions of thread and posts on this whithout a definitive answer. The reality is the difference between the two if there is one is minimal. While peoples spend time testing that, I have a backlog of 40 HD*DVD/Blu Ray titles to go through.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12287566
> 
> 
> The answer is a little more nuanced, though most players will not or never will do DTS-MA decoding (e.g, BDP-HD1, 94HD, 95HD - only the later will even push it out bitstream to a different than Anthem player to decode).
> 
> 
> More to the point, IF a player can decode DTS-MA 8 channel (7.1) the answer is NO, but you can get 6 channel PCM (5.1) and make up the rear surrounds.



Lets be honest, the current Blu-Ray player models with the exception of the PS3 will be obsolete dinosaurs in 12 months. More than 2 minutes to get the first image of a Disney Movies such as Ratatouille is totally unacceptable. And this is going to get worst with time when disk with Profile 1.1 with come out. By than DTS-MA decoding in the player will be available.


The none availability of a DTS-MA on Blu-Ray player is a temporary situation. You don't choose a Pre/Pro on these premises. The Pre/Pro should be chosen based on sound quality.


----------



## dschamis

For the second time my D2 is having HDMI handskaking problems. This happened once a few weeks ago then went away. It is now happening again. Any HDMI source will show video and audio for a split second and then cut out. Component video works just fine.


My HDMI sources are: SA8300HD cable box; DirecTV H20 sat receiver; PS3.


I am using a Digital Projection Titan 1080p-250 proj.


On the cable box you will actually see a message for a split second saying that the DVI connection is not working and to use a component cable (even though the output is HDMI). While I could go to this for the cable and sat I need HDMI for 1080p out of the PS3.


Any ideas?


----------



## "MIKEY"

My D2 now displays D1-HD. Also, the OSD remains on longer than before?

I'm using v1.1. Any ideas what is going on & how to overcome this minor issue? The unit as a whole has worked flawlessly for the last 11 months.

Thanks & Happy Thanksgiving!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/12288119
> 
> 
> 
> The none availability of a DTS-MA on Blu-Ray player is a temporary situation. You don't choose a Pre/Pro on these premises. The Pre/Pro should be chosen based on sound quality.



That's your subjective opinion. I was answering a question, correctly, regarding capabilities. As I said the issue is mitigated by the limited availability of BOTH 7.1 PCM and DTS-MA software, but I was truly not trying to have the useless debate muddy up the Anthem thread. There are limitations to the Anthem and most people are happy to live with them. To me the lack of stability is more onerous than the inability to do High Bit Rate bitstream of lossless formats...


But I know your thanksgiving day was about a month ago


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/12288716
> 
> 
> For the second time my D2 is having HDMI handskaking problems. This happened once a few weeks ago then went away. It is now happening again. Any HDMI source will show video and audio for a split second and then cut out. Component video works just fine.
> 
> 
> My HDMI sources are: SA8300HD cable box; DirecTV H20 sat receiver; PS3.
> 
> 
> I am using a Digital Projection Titan 1080p-250 proj.
> 
> 
> On the cable box you will actually see a message for a split second saying that the DVI connection is not working and to use a component cable (even though the output is HDMI). While I could go to this for the cable and sat I need HDMI for 1080p out of the PS3.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



OK - I solved it. Powering down the projector and then pulling out the power cord for a few mins did the trick - really weird!


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/12289172
> 
> 
> My D2 now displays D1-HD. Also, the OSD remains on longer than before?
> 
> I'm using v1.1. Any ideas what is going on & how to overcome this minor issue? The unit as a whole has worked flawlessly for the last 11 months.
> 
> Thanks & Happy Thanksgiving!



Well, the older versions of software came in two versions. One for the upgraded D1 (D1-HD), and one for the D2. They stopped having different versions somewhere in the 1.11 range (I don't remember where). Apparently somehow yours got loaded with the D1-HD version? Can't help with the OSD thing...


----------



## rajman

I just received my upgraded AVM 20-HD and got it plugged in. Just for background I have an Expressvu HD PVR feeding 1080i via component cables to the AVM on the SAT input. My DVD player is a Sony CX995 400 DVD changer feeding 480i via component cables to the AVM on DVD input. The output is 1280 X 720P @ 60 Hz via component cables to my Sanyo PLVZ2. I plan on getting a Blu-ray player in the near future and will also be running an HDMI connection to the projector as well.


When I initially set up the system the video results were indeed impressive. The picture was better than before the upgrade. My first inkling of concern was when I used the color bar generator to test my projector calibration. I was unable to adjust the brightness and contrast settings sufficiently at any level on the projector to get the proper appearance of the white and black areas meant to adjust the display for optimum levels. After I went back to watching "The Incredibles" I toggled to the Crop Input section of the Video OSD and found that if I switched between the 16:9 and the 4:3 selections nothing happened whereas when I did this at the initial playing of this same movie prior to calibration I found that the 16:9 setting vertically stretched the image to get rid of the black bars at the top and bottom. When I attempted it the second time, choosing Auto, 16:9 and 4:3 did nothing to change the appearance of the picture in any way.


Curious about what was going on I went to the Scale Out selection and found that the "Anamorphic Stretch" selection was selected. When I selected any of the other options including the "No Scaling" option the image remained completely unaltered from the initial appearance. I then went to the "info" window and found that the input was component 4:4:4 with a 720X480i/59.94 Hz signal type (as expected ) with the film mode off. What was disturbing was that the output was 720X483p/59.94 Hz and not the 1280X720p which it should have been. I went back to the video output setup window and confirmed that my preferred output was component with a display resolution of 1280X720p.


Trying to backtrack I went back to the movie and brought up the "info" screen again and it still showed the same output signal as above. I then left this display on as I entered the DVD player's internally generated display so that I could call up another DVD from the carousel and noted that the projector display flashed blue a couple of times as if the signal was lost and then came back with the "info" screen now slightly shrunken in size but displaying the proper output signal at 1280X720p and the input as the same as above at 720X480i. When I select a DVD to play the output resolution is sometimes 720X483p and if I choose a new DVD to watch it may come in at 1280X720p.


The last curious resolution fluctuation is when I switch to watch the satellite input (which is coming as 1080i). If I had the DVD playing with the 720X483p output and switched to the SAT input the projector would flash blue a few times as the projector tries to lock on. When it does, the output resolution is 1280X720p. If I immediately switch the input back to DVD it shows an output of 720X483p.










I'm sorry to go on so long but I wanted to exactly outline what I was doing so someone could identify what my problem is since when the DVD is actually being processed to 1280X720p the picture appears to be better. I'm thoroughly confused because I'm not sure if it is a flaw in the processor or if it a flaw in myself being a newbie with this unit. Thank you for any help.


----------



## rudolpht

What firmware version are you running in the Anthem?


----------



## rajman

I'm running v1.21...I just got the unit today after being upgraded by Anthem last week. I just had a thought and wondered if it may be due to Macrovision limitations as a message indicating something like "Macrovision protection limiting resolution only to 480p is permitted" intermittently pops up while watching DVDs. Would this limitation inhibit upscaling by Anthem and if so is there a way around it? Interestingly I never got this message with my original AVM 20 watching the same DVDs through the same system... ?possibly because it didn't have any upscaling capability.Also would this be avoided by using the HDMI outputs(but the lower limit of resolution via HDMI is 480p, thus bypassing part of the AVM50 scaling).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajman* /forum/post/12291493
> 
> 
> I'm running v1.21...I just got the unit today after being upgraded by Anthem last week. I just had a thought and wondered if it may be due to Macrovision limitations as a message indicating something like "Macrovision protection limiting resolution only to 480p is permitted" intermittently pops up while watching DVDs. Would this limitation inhibit upscaling by Anthem and if so is there a way around it? Interestingly I never got this message with my original AVM 20 watching the same DVDs through the same system... ?possibly because it didn't have any upscaling capability.Also would this be avoided by using the HDMI outputs(but the lower limit of resolution via HDMI is 480p, thus bypassing part of the AVM50 scaling).



Your Sanyo is NOT HDCP Compliant - you will

have never eneding problems until you get a

new display.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12292509
> 
> 
> Your Sanyo is NOT HDCP Compliant - you will
> 
> have never eneding problems until you get a
> 
> new display.



If we're talking about his Sanyo PLV-Z2 they say the "DVI-I Input is High-bandwith Compliant for viewing of HDCP Encrypted Source Material."









http://us.sanyo.com/business/project...?productID=836


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajman* /forum/post/12291493
> 
> 
> I'm running v1.21...I just got the unit today after being upgraded by Anthem last week. I just had a thought and wondered if it may be due to Macrovision limitations as a message indicating something like "Macrovision protection limiting resolution only to 480p is permitted" intermittently pops up while watching DVDs. Would this limitation inhibit upscaling by Anthem and if so is there a way around it? Interestingly I never got this message with my original AVM 20 watching the same DVDs through the same system... ?possibly because it didn't have any upscaling capability.Also would this be avoided by using the HDMI outputs(but the lower limit of resolution via HDMI is 480p, thus bypassing part of the AVM50 scaling).



Read your manual carefully. IMO, it ranks as one of the best manuals of any product that I have ever had.


"If the source material is copy-protected with Macrovision, then maximum resolution using Component video output is 480p."


Use your DVI-I input if possible.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12292947
> 
> 
> If we're talking about his Sanyo PLV-Z2 they say the "DVI-I Input is High-bandwith Compliant for viewing of HDCP Encrypted Source Material."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://us.sanyo.com/business/project...?productID=836



BUT you said you were using *COMPONENT - NOT DVI.
*

Many DVI inputs say they are HDCP and turn out to

be some version 0.1 which a lot of todays equipment

does not recognizie as being compliant.


----------



## Kensmith48

On Wednesday my dealer came through. He said it shipped last Monday from the Buffalo, NY area and that I should have it Wednesday. I had my doubts but he was right. I only had 2 hours to make a 60 mile round trip but I made it in about 1-1/2 hrs.

It says it's the 1.21 version on the box. I'll probably be setting this up for a week. I'm a little overwhelmed. At least if I have any questions I'm glad this thread is available.


----------



## gblack

I've been following this thread since the D2 originally came out. There's an incredible amount of information here and it's one of the best threads in any forum I read.


I just dropped my D1 off this morning at the Anthem factory for the D1-HD upgrade. Looking forward to the arrival of the Mascots!


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Where is our fearless leader, Bob Pariseau? Haven't seen him post in quite a while.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Travelling. i have been able to read the latest posts here from time to time, but i don't really have the time to post until I get back in December. Of course that has only slowed you folks down a little bit on the march to 10,000 posts!

--Bob


----------



## rajman

Sigh... I think the problem is with Macrovision copy protection as it best explains the output resolution being limited to 480p. I did take the Sony DVD changer and wire it directly from the HDMI output to the DVI input on the Sanyo (bypassing the AVM50) and found only a blank screen likely indicating that it is not compatible. Looks like I'll have to convince the wife to spring for the new projector sooner than I thought.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12293844
> 
> 
> Travelling. i have been able to read the latest posts here from time to time, but i don't really have the time to post until I get back in December. Of course that has only slowed you folks down a little bit on the march to 10,000 posts!
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for checking in Bob. Enjoy your trip!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12293844
> 
> 
> Travelling. i have been able to read the latest posts here from time to time, but i don't really have the time to post until I get back in December. Of course that has only slowed you folks down a little bit on the march to 10,000 posts!
> 
> --Bob



If you just count quanty - NUMBERS - you are right.


But NONE of us can hold a candle to the LENGTH of

the answers you provide. No One Generates more

Bytes than *BOB P*


----------



## shah993

Bob,

I have been a lurker since the biggining of this thread and have one of the very first D2 manufactured.I have really appreciated your profound contribution specially for people who like and appreciate fine electronics but do not have the knowledege and understanding like you do.Thanks


----------



## slots1

Bob,

Again thanks for all your help. I am still waiting for ISF guy, but the picture on the new directv hidef chanels and on my Toshiba A35 are so great. even without a 1080p projector.

Gerry


----------



## RIppolito

Smart people,


As an AVM50 owner, I'd like to use the video processor to clean up old video tapes that I have shot / collected over the years. Is there a way to do this? If I set the output resolution to 480i, what is sent out the S-video output, processed or unprocessed video?


Thank you in advance,


Ron


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/12303028
> 
> 
> Smart people,
> 
> 
> As an AVM50 owner, I'd like to use the video processor to clean up old video tapes that I have shot / collected over the years. Is there a way to do this? If I set the output resolution to 480i, what is sent out the S-video output, processed or unprocessed video?
> 
> 
> Thank you in advance,
> 
> 
> Ron




I would assume you want the input by 408i Svideo to be output to whatever your display or capture devise resolution. Where are you trying to get the Svideo input to?


----------



## RIppolito

I want to archive the processed video to my computer, so I can archive them to DVDs, edit them, etc.


Ron


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/12304007
> 
> 
> I want to archive the processed video to my computer, so I can archive them to DVDs, edit them, etc.
> 
> 
> Ron



Ron,


The question was really what are you recording to and how is it connected to the Anthem. The Anthem is really targeting hi res component or HDMI output, so it is not optimal to do SD DVD.


I would suggest a PC with better applications or a direct to DVD type device from HP.


Tim


----------



## Big Tex

To upgrade or not to upgrade....the million dollar question.


I have a AVM 50. After all kinds of issues I finally got good stability with 1.11e. The issue is I still have major handshake issues with my Time Warner HD DVR. My PS3, Oppo and Xbox HD work fine..no blue screens. Issue is when I change channels on the TW DVR I get a blue screen between each channel. It's so annoying but I've lived with it since everything else works fine and is stable. I didn't want to fix one problem and create two new ones.


I've been waiting to upgrade the firmware. Should I? I'm finally sick of the blue screens. I keep reading issues with 1.21 but it seems to me there has to be a fix for my above issue in 1.21. What do you super studs think?


By the way, I know very little about technology. What's 4:4:2 and 4:4:4? I see it in my menus and keep seeing it mentioned here. Should I change my settings. I have a JVC RS1 being feed by the AVM 50. What settings should I use to get maximum resolution and output from the AVM 50. Everything but the Xbox is HDMI connected. Is this a big deal? 8 bit versus 10 bit?


Thanks for ALL the help! You super nerds are amazing. You guys know so much. It's incredible...


Big Tex


----------



## rudolpht

Tex,


The software above 11e is NOT (IMHO) going to fix the blue screens, and it may even make them worse. Have you tried component & optical/coax for sound on the DVR?


I would go with the Hank's advice if 3 things work don't break them to fix one thing that may still not work, or some other genius said that










Tim


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/12305990
> 
> 
> To upgrade or not to upgrade....the million dollar question.
> 
> 
> I have a AVM 50. After all kinds of issues I finally got good stability with 1.11e. The issue is I still have major handshake issues with my Time Warner HD DVR. My PS3, Oppo and Xbox HD work fine..no blue screens. Issue is when I change channels on the TW DVR I get a blue screen between each channel. It's so annoying but I've lived with it since everything else works fine and is stable. I didn't want to fix one problem and create two new ones.
> 
> 
> I've been waiting to upgrade the firmware. Should I? I'm finally sick of the blue screens. I keep reading issues with 1.21 but it seems to me there has to be a fix for my above issue in 1.21. What do you super studs think?
> 
> 
> By the way, I know very little about technology. What's 4:4:2 and 4:4:4? I see it in my menus and keep seeing it mentioned here. Should I change my settings. I have a JVC RS1 being feed by the AVM 50. What settings should I use to get maximum resolution and output from the AVM 50. Everything but the Xbox is HDMI connected. Is this a big deal? 8 bit versus 10 bit?
> 
> 
> Thanks for ALL the help! You super nerds are amazing. You guys know so much. It's incredible...
> 
> 
> Big Tex



Big Tex -


My recommendation would be to try Component out from the TW DVR with digital audio sound. If you still have problems, then set your TW DVR to a fixed output resolution, such as 1080i, rather than using Native output resolution.


There has been lots of discussion and debate on this. Normally you want to have native out to the scaler and let the scaler do the "heavy lifting". But, other factors, such as the blue screens you are experiencing, come into play.


You can change the menu color to gray, rather than blue, then when the AVM50 loses video sync, you will get a gray screen, rather than blue. It's no so "in your face", but only masks the problem, it doesn't eliminate it.


Personally, I went with fixed resolution output from my DVR (TiVo HD) and never have problems with audio/video lock.


=== Tim


----------



## dweltman

I just purchased a D2 and a PS3. V1.12s on the D2 software and the latest PS3 software version (2.01).


I seem to get the video handshake from the PS3 no problem. When I press status on the D2 it says it is receiving 1080p/23.98 and sending 1080p/24 to my Pio150FD plasma.


I am having problems with the audio, though. I have it set for linear PCM on the PS3, so it can send out up to 24/192 if the prepro will accept it. Unfortunately, when I press status, the D2 says it is receiving 6channel/48Hz! The PS3 seems to verify that this is what it is sending. It should be sending uncompressed PCM if the Anthem accepts it, right?


Anyone know what I am doing wrong?


As a sidebar, can anyone explain whether the 23.98 conversion to 24 has any significance to me?


Sorry if these are old questions, but this thread has too many pages to start reading! (I did a search for "Pariseau", figuring he has all the answers, but that gave me well over 50 pages! Incredible!)


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12293443
> 
> 
> Where is our fearless leader, Bob Pariseau? Haven't seen him post in quite a while.




Rob,


I could have used you last night from the Lexxicon owners in Los Angeles, they were ganging up on us.


Michael


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/12309270
> 
> 
> I just purchased a D2 and a PS3. V1.12s on the D2 software and the latest PS3 software version (2.01).
> 
> 
> I seem to get the video handshake from the PS3 no problem. When I press status on the D2 it says it is receiving 1080p/23.98 and sending 1080p/24 to my Pio150FD plasma.
> 
> 
> I am having problems with the audio, though. I have it set for linear PCM on the PS3, so it can send out up to 24/192 if the prepro will accept it. Unfortunately, when I press status, the D2 says it is receiving 6channel/48Hz! The PS3 seems to verify that this is what it is sending. It should be sending uncompressed PCM if the Anthem accepts it, right?
> 
> 
> Anyone know what I am doing wrong?
> 
> 
> As a sidebar, can anyone explain whether the 23.98 conversion to 24 has any significance to me?
> 
> 
> Sorry if these are old questions, but this thread has too many pages to start reading! (I did a search for "Pariseau", figuring he has all the answers, but that gave me well over 50 pages! Incredible!)



re PS3 audio: You aren't doing anything wrong. Uncompressed PCM from BDs have a sampling rate of 48Khz with 16bit data. Somebody here or in one of the Blu-Ray player forum threads did the math and for 6ch PCM it comes out to about 4.6Mb/s. (Actually the bitrate and sampling interval was known so the data size was deduced). Pressing the "status" or "display" button on the PS3 bluetooth remote will show the audio info. The PS3 does not upsample the PCM audio. The D2 does upsample the PCM audio.


larry


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/12309270
> 
> 
> I just purchased a D2 and a PS3. V1.12s on the D2 software and the latest PS3 software version (2.01).
> 
> 
> I seem to get the video handshake from the PS3 no problem. When I press status on the D2 it says it is receiving 1080p/23.98 and sending 1080p/24 to my Pio150FD plasma.
> 
> 
> I am having problems with the audio, though. I have it set for linear PCM on the PS3, so it can send out up to 24/192 if the prepro will accept it. Unfortunately, when I press status, the D2 says it is receiving 6channel/48Hz! The PS3 seems to verify that this is what it is sending. It should be sending uncompressed PCM if the Anthem accepts it, right?
> 
> 
> Anyone know what I am doing wrong?
> 
> 
> As a sidebar, can anyone explain whether the 23.98 conversion to 24 has any significance to me?
> 
> 
> Sorry if these are old questions, but this thread has too many pages to start reading! (I did a search for "Pariseau", figuring he has all the answers, but that gave me well over 50 pages! Incredible!)



23.98 is the actual usually rounded to 24. In actuallity many devices at release despite testing are set at 24 and need to be fixed.


On the PS3 you need to make sure you are sending PCM out, and it defaults to 7.1 at a higher res than the Anthem can handle so back it off to 6 channel (5.1) at 48 or below the top resolution.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12309727
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 
> I could have used you last night from the Lexxicon owners in Los Angeles, they were ganging up on us.
> 
> 
> Michael



Ignorance = bliss


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12309727
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 
> I could have used you last night from the Lexxicon owners in Los Angeles, they were ganging up on us.
> 
> 
> Michael



Those Lexicon users are using 20th Century Gear










I use to be one from 1983 to 2006 - I owned every

Lexicon Pre/Pro they ever produced.


----------



## AnthemAVM

Is this possiable to do with the Anthem D2.


If we are watching a show on our TV via HDMI, is there a way that I can put a computer monitor on my audio rack, and when I hit setup, the setup screen would come up on the monitor. The monitor would be connected via componets?


Thanks


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12309836
> 
> 
> re PS3 audio: You aren't doing anything wrong. Uncompressed PCM from BDs have a sampling rate of 48Khz with 16bit data. Somebody here or in one of the Blu-Ray player forum threads did the math and for 6ch PCM it comes out to about 4.6Mb/s. (Actually the bitrate and sampling interval was known so the data size was deduced). Pressing the "status" or "display" button on the PS3 bluetooth remote will show the audio info. The PS3 does not upsample the PCM audio. The D2 does upsample the PCM audio.
> 
> 
> larry



So in other words, all this talk of 8 channels at 24/192 is a scam?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/12310679
> 
> 
> So in other words, all this talk of 8 channels at 24/192 is a scam?



I don't know what you mean by scam, but the Anthem only takes 6 channel PCM and the upsampling on the Anthem will be better than upsampling the audio on the PS3.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12310306
> 
> 
> Is this possiable to do with the Anthem D2.
> 
> 
> If we are watching a show on our TV via HDMI, is there a way that I can put a computer monitor on my audio rack, and when I hit setup, the setup screen would come up on the monitor. The monitor would be connected via componets?
> 
> 
> Thanks



might work with a inexpensive component to rgb blackbox like the one used by Sony PS2 to computer monitor.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Holy Cow!!!!


----------



## Rob Tomlin

We have now reached a milestone:


10,000 posts!!!


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12309727
> 
> 
> I could have used you last night from the Lexxicon owners in Los Angeles, they were ganging up on us.



Hey, tell the truth: most of that was instigated by an Integra owner, and only one Lex owner joined in. I remained mum most of the day (your tamale bribe worked). Besides, you had it easy. You should have seen what poor FilmMixer used to go through.


> Quote:
> _If we are watching a show on our TV via HDMI, is there a way that I can put a computer monitor on my audio rack, and when I hit setup, the setup screen would come up on the monitor._



Instead of a computer monitor (where you'd have to convert the video signal coming out of the D2) consider finding a LCD TV like the kind used for automotive systems or closed-circut security systems. This way, you just have to run a simple composite video cable from your D2 for OSD purposes.


Sanjay


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12313079
> 
> 
> We have now reached a milestone:
> 
> 
> 10,000 posts!!!



We sure are a *TALKATIVE* bunch aren't we


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/12313109
> 
> 
> Hey, tell the truth: most of that was instigated by an Integra owner, and only one Lex owner joined in. I remained mum most of the day (your tamale bribe worked). Besides, you had it easy. You should have seen what poor FilmMixer used to go through. Instead of a computer monitor (where you'd have to convert the video signal coming out of the D2) consider finding a LCD TV like the kind used for automotive systems or closed-circut security systems. This way, you just have to run a simple composite video cable from your D2 for OSD purposes.
> 
> 
> Sanjay



I must admit, I was very impressed with what the Lexicon could do!


----------



## Rayjr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12309727
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 
> I could have used you last night from the Lexxicon owners in Los Angeles, they were ganging up on us.
> 
> 
> Michael



Hey....I only made a few comments....it was the pepsi amped Integra owner that kept pushing










RayJr


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12313165
> 
> 
> I must admit, I was very impressed with what the Lexicon could do!



Sure, right up until the part where you asked what video processing it uses, and everyone got quiet (except for the Integra owner).


BTW, much of what you heard yesterday we were able to mimic on your set-up by customizing PLII_x_ parameters on your D2. If you remember, the soundstage stretched well beyond your front L/R speakers, while the surrounds themselves were never noticeable.


Now I just have to talk you into springing for the room correction upgrade when it gets here.


Sanjay


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12313079
> 
> 
> We have now reached a milestone:
> 
> 
> 10,000 posts!!!



Rob,


We were holding that post for Bob. We know you "captured it" for him in spirit










Tim


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/12313556
> 
> 
> Sure, right up until the part where you asked what video processing it uses, and everyone got quiet (except for the Integra owner).
> 
> 
> BTW, much of what you heard yesterday we were able to mimic on your set-up by customizing PLII_x_ parameters on your D2. If you remember, the soundstage stretched well beyond your front L/R speakers, while the surrounds themselves were never noticeable.
> 
> 
> Now I just have to talk you into springing for the room correction upgrade when it gets here.
> 
> 
> Sanjay



Sanjay, let me know if you need any help in convincing Michael to get the room EQ when it is released, and I will help. If he needs me to be the guinea pig and wants to hear it on my system before springing for it himself, I would be more than happy to have the clan over for some critical listening/tweaking etc.










Here's hoping that Anthem is getting close to releasing room EQ!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12313912
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 
> We were holding that post for Bob. We know you "captured it" for him in spirit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tim



That's what he gets for "traveling"!


----------



## Eric Carroll




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/12286754
> 
> 
> Blu-Ray players that are capable to internally decode DTS-MA will be announced at CES (Jan 08) and schedule for shipping before summer 08.



Tostoi,


Are you able to share who might make such announcements other than Denon, which was CEDIA announced? This is a genuine enquiry for more data on this subject. Is there a thread at AVS on this that I missed?


Thanks,


Eric


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/12313556
> 
> 
> Sure, right up until the part where you asked what video processing it uses, and everyone got quiet (except for the Integra owner).
> 
> 
> BTW, much of what you heard yesterday we were able to mimic on your set-up by customizing PLII_x_ parameters on your D2. If you remember, the soundstage stretched well beyond your front L/R speakers, while the surrounds themselves were never noticeable.
> 
> 
> Now I just have to talk you into springing for the room correction upgrade when it gets here.
> 
> 
> Sanjay



I'm all over the room EQ software when it gets here!


10K posts! Whoa. got to sleep for one weekend and miss the big event!


----------



## Trigger44

This is a unusual non DVD question for all you experts. I have a D2

that was purchased last May, firmware 1.11. I have DishTV that includes

hi def and standard def channels. My receiver is such that I cannot opt out

of various dolby and digital sound configurations.


My problem is this. When I switch say for example from Discovery HD to

Dicsovery SD the sound level changes about 6 - 8 db. I have tried everything

in set up that I could find. The SD stations are much louder on my two fronts.

Hi def seams to be loudest in the center. I emailed Anthem, I got a one sentence reply that was of no help. I think their clueless.


Any help would be great.

thanks;


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trigger44* /forum/post/12316169
> 
> 
> This is a unusual non DVD question for all you experts. I have a D2
> 
> that was purchased last May, firmware 1.11. I have DishTV that includes
> 
> hi def and standard def channels. My receiver is such that I cannot opt out
> 
> of various dolby and digital sound configurations.
> 
> 
> My problem is this. When I switch say for example from Discovery HD to
> 
> Dicsovery SD the sound level changes about 6 - 8 db. I have tried everything
> 
> in set up that I could find. The SD stations are much louder on my two fronts.
> 
> Hi def seams to be loudest in the center. I emailed Anthem, I got a one sentence reply that was of no help. I think their clueless.
> 
> 
> Any help would be great.
> 
> thanks;



It really is a source component question vs an Anthem question, so don't blame the anthem guys. It sounds like you are getting analog stereo for the SD stations and dolby digital for the HD version.


You can see what the sound settings are on the Sat box (i.e., make them all output digital) and set defaults and formats for the source on the Anthem, e.g., apply Dolby IIx to all incoming sound for the device. Worst case you can go backwards and just use stereo analog for all input on that device, but even that won't help if the different channels use different reference levels.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trigger44* /forum/post/12316169
> 
> 
> This is a unusual non DVD question for all you experts. I have a D2
> 
> that was purchased last May, firmware 1.11. I have DishTV that includes
> 
> hi def and standard def channels. My receiver is such that I cannot opt out
> 
> of various dolby and digital sound configurations.
> 
> 
> My problem is this. When I switch say for example from Discovery HD to
> 
> Dicsovery SD the sound level changes about 6 - 8 db. I have tried everything
> 
> in set up that I could find. The SD stations are much louder on my two fronts.
> 
> Hi def seams to be loudest in the center. I emailed Anthem, I got a one sentence reply that was of no help. I think their clueless.
> 
> 
> Any help would be great.
> 
> thanks;



It is very common for sound levels to change between the SD and HD versions of the same channel, and even between the same channel received over two different services. The degree of variation will even change from program to program on the same pair of channels.


Nevertheless there are things you should check.


First make sure you don't have any of the "temporary" audio level adjustments turned on. These are the ones you can make from your remote while viewing. They are remembered separately for each input device and for each TYPE of audio from that device, so it is easy to think you have zeroed them out when in fact you did it for a different input or type of audio.


To clear all of the "temporary" adjustments at once, go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings, and then:


* Save User Settings


* Reload Factory Defaults (you may lose video at this point but you can continue via the Anthem's front panel display)


* Restore Saved User Settings


The "temporary" settings are not saved so this clears them all.


------------------------------------


Next go in to the Setup / Speaker Level Calibration menu and recheck the basic level balance for your speakers. It is normal for digital audio broadcasts to have the bulk of their audio in the Center channel, and for analog audio broadcasts to have more of it in the Front L/R channels. So if your speakers are out of balance you may hear a difference just due to that.


It is best to not trust your ears when doing this balancing. If you don't have one, go to Radio Shack and get a Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter. They are inexpensive and they are the ones everybody uses.


Take your time and carefully adjust the levels in this menu so that all of your speakers are matched in SPL reading. You may discover that if you move between different listening positions the levels vary. If so, take measurements at several positions and try to develop the best "compromise" level settings that work well at your different listening positions.


Finally, when listening to the channels broadcast in stereo, experiment with the different surround audio modes that the Anthem offers to raise that stereo to surround sound. Some of the modes are more aggressive than others and you may find them more or less pleasing. My recommendation is to try Anthem-Logic Cinema for your SD channels, but this is a matter of personal taste. Please note, for example, that if you select Anthem-Logic Music when listening to a stereo source, the Center channel speaker is not used. Read the Anthem manual for a discussion of these modes and experiment a bit to see which sounds best. Also note that the THX post processing is a separate on/off toggle. But the audio modes you have available to choose between will vary according to whether or not THX happens to be turned on at the moment -- and also by the style of audio that is currently being received from the source.


Now go back and watch various channels again. You may discover there is less variation than you had before. But if your still hear variation, you can be confident that it is just because the two channels really are sending out their audio at different levels. You could play with the "temporary" audio level adjustments when watching some channels if this still bothers you.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12315582
> 
> 
> I'm all over the room EQ software when it gets here!
> 
> 
> 10K posts! Whoa. got to sleep for one weekend and miss the big event!



Just to stir the pot a little I had an informal call with Nick about the upcoming EQ option for the D2 and he gave me a some more info that I'd like to share.







Actually, Nick called me about another technical issue for a client and of course I grabbed the opportunity to ask about the EQ.










The EQ. is in final beta testing with about 10 lucky people doing the legwork. There was some issue with the software when you took a reading in a corner but I guess they're working that out.


The microphones have already been ordered. As most of you already know, the processing will be done via computer although you will have to update the D2's software. The minimum number of position reading should be 5 but Nick said 10 would be ideal. Any less than 5 and you just won't have enough of a sampling and any more than 10 yields very little.


If you have an EQ for your sub Nick said you should run that first then the D2 EQ. The resonance filter will be disabled if you're using the EQ.


The cost of the EQ might be $350 instead of the $300 that was mentioned earlier in this thread.


You will not have complete control to set the EQ to whatever you want. I believe Nick said you will be able to choose different targets but allowing complete control would be asking for trouble. Let's wait and see what it looks like.


They are also working on the graphics etc... of the software because it looks like a beta right now. No, unfortunately I am not one of the beta testers.










On a side note we briefly talked about the current run of receivers that can decode lossless Dolby and DTS. He said that they are NOT actually decoding the master recording but are actually decoding secondary surround material that was added by the dubbing engineer. This is what triggers the little light to go on in the receiver which makes the consumer all warm and fuzzy inside.










The bottom line he said, lossless is lossless and it doesn't make a difference where it's done - i.e., the player or the SSP.


Anyway, I thought it was interesting.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12319954
> 
> 
> Just to stir the pot a little I had an informal call with Nick about the upcoming EQ option for the D2 and he gave me a some more info that I'd like to share.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, Nick called me about another technical issue for a client and of course I grabbed the opportunity to ask about the EQ.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The EQ. is in final beta testing with about 10 lucky people doing the legwork. There was some issue with the software when you took a reading in a corner but I guess they're working that out.
> 
> 
> The microphones have already been ordered. As most of you already know, the processing will be done via computer although you will have to update the D2's software. The minimum number of position reading should be 5 but Nick said 10 would be ideal. Any less than 5 and you just won't have enough of a sampling and any more than 10 yields very little.
> 
> 
> If you have an EQ for your sub Nick said you should run that first then the D2 EQ. The resonance filter will be disabled if you're using the EQ.
> 
> 
> The cost of the EQ might be $350 instead of the $300 that was mentioned earlier in this thread.
> 
> 
> You will not have complete control to set the EQ to whatever you want. I believe Nick said you will be able to choose different targets but allowing complete control would be asking for trouble. Let's wait and see what it looks like.
> 
> 
> They are also working on the graphics etc... of the software because it looks like a beta right now. No, unfortunately I am not one of the beta testers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note we briefly talked about the current run of receivers that can decode lossless Dolby and DTS. He said that they are NOT actually decoding the master recording but are actually decoding secondary surround material that was added by the dubbing engineer. This is what triggers the little light to go on in the receiver which makes the consumer all warm and fuzzy inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom line he said, lossless is lossless and it doesn't make a difference where it's done - i.e., the player or the SSP.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I thought it was interesting.



Thanks for the update, Jim! I'm looking forward to it!


----------



## Trigger44

Thanks for the reply. I did just discover what the problem is. I decided to call Dish tech support, it took a supervisor to sort it out but this is what he said. All hi-def channels are broadcast in digital so Anthem-logic is NOT an

option. In the setup menu for the Dish receiver, the supervisor said set the

Dolby to PCM ONLY. Wow it worked. He said when using any Dolby with Dish there WILL be a sound level difference going from SD to HD. So turn Dobly off

by choosing PCM only. I have been trying to figure this one out for months.


Learn something everyday !!!! Do love the D2 and this thread site. By the way I have a 6.1 system and the speakers have been very carefully

calibrated. Thanks again Bob for the info.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trigger44* /forum/post/12320100
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I did just discover what the problem is. I decided to call Dish tech support, it took a supervisor to sort it out but this is what he said. All hi-def channels are broadcast in digital so Anthem-logic is NOT an
> 
> option. In the setup menu for the Dish receiver, the supervisor said set the
> 
> Dolby to PCM ONLY. Wow it worked. He said when using any Dolby with Dish there WILL be a sound level difference going from SD to HD. So turn Dobly off
> 
> by choosing PCM only. I have been trying to figure this one out for months.
> 
> 
> Learn something everyday !!!! Do love the D2 and this thread site. By the way I have a 6.1 system and the speakers have been very carefully
> 
> calibrated. Thanks again Bob for the info.



I'm afraid that what the Dish guy told you is not really a fix.


When you set the Dish to PCM, it reduces any incoming DD2.0 or DD5.1 broadcasts to simple stereo (2 channel PCM) which is just what the SD channels end up giving you when you watch them. That's why it sounds the same level. This option exists in the Dish because not everyone has an audio system that can handle DD2.0 or DD5.1 bitstreams.


However you lose audio quality when you drop DD5.1 to stereo and then have the Anthem raise it back up to 5.1 or 7.1 for your surround speakers with Anthem-Logic (or any of the other modes).


For best audio quality you should leave the Dish on bitstream. You will get 2-channel PCM (stereo) or 1-channel PCM (mono) automatically for SD channels and (usually) DD2.0 or DD5.1 for HD channels. There may be an audio level difference, but the audio QUALITY for the DD2.0 and DD5.1 stuff will be better.

--Bob


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12319954
> 
> 
> On a side note we briefly talked about the current run of receivers that can decode lossless Dolby and DTS. He said that they are NOT actually decoding the master recording but are actually decoding secondary surround material that was added by the dubbing engineer. This is what triggers the little light to go on in the receiver which makes the consumer all warm and fuzzy inside.



That's not true. Those receivers are fully decoding Dolby and DTS lossless tracks. What "secondary surround material" is he talking about?


> Quote:
> _The bottom line he said, lossless is lossless and it doesn't make a difference where it's done - i.e., the player or the SSP._



That's true, but none of the players contain all the decoders, like receivers do. There are advantages to decoding in the player (mixing, interactivity), but receivers have also have an advantage currently (decoding for all the new HD audio formats).


Sanjay


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/12313109
> 
> 
> Instead of a computer monitor (where you'd have to convert the video signal coming out of the D2) consider finding a LCD TV like the kind used for automotive systems or closed-circut security systems. This way, you just have to run a simple composite video cable from your D2 for OSD purposes.
> 
> 
> Sanjay



Sony and Panasonic, and others, make small lcd monitors (6 to 8 inches in size). I'm going to get one for the same reason. These usually have composite inputs on the cheaper ones.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/12320451
> 
> 
> That's not true. Those receivers are fully decoding Dolby and DTS lossless tracks. What "secondary surround material" is he talking about? That's true, but none of the players contain all the decoders, like receivers do. There are advantages to decoding in the player (mixing, interactivity), but receivers have also have an advantage currently (decoding for all the new HD audio formats).
> 
> 
> Sanjay



I didn't really get into it since it's not a priority for me. FWIW he didn't say they could not decode but rather that the decoding was still initially being implemented in the player. secondary surround means surround effects that are added and not part of the original recording. This was just some interesting talk but I have no inclination to verify any of this.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12319954
> 
> 
> On a side note we briefly talked about the current run of receivers that can decode lossless Dolby and DTS.



I got all excited that Anthem had an early lossless set of receivers in beta or some testing.


I know I'm not allowed to get excited Anthem EQ, but it was unfair to get me excited on lossless







Figured out you were talking about other vendors equipment and it didn't really make sense, but....


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trigger44* /forum/post/12320100
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I did just discover what the problem is. I decided to call Dish tech support, it took a supervisor to sort it out but this is what he said. All hi-def channels are broadcast in digital so Anthem-logic is NOT an
> 
> option. In the setup menu for the Dish receiver, the supervisor said set the
> 
> Dolby to PCM ONLY. Wow it worked. He said when using any Dolby with Dish there WILL be a sound level difference going from SD to HD. So turn Dobly off
> 
> by choosing PCM only. I have been trying to figure this one out for months.



Even though closer to my recommendation than Bob's (back on the "job") complete and thoughtful answer & subsequent follow up, sometimes what "works" trumps the more elegant (and IMHO more satisfying) solution. At a minimum it got it off the analog setting and will allow some post processing on the Anthem side. (I didn't know newer DirecTV box PCM was only 2 channel).


I'm just happy that Trigger is happy


----------



## "MIKEY"

My dealer installed v1.2s on my D2 this past weekend. This fixed a couple of of minor things:

1. The system does not display D1HD anymore

2. The OSD goes off normally


Excellent service!

Also, he stated the upcoming EQ is a hardware solution & that my unit will need to go back to Anthem. We'll see what happens...


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/12321776
> 
> 
> My dealer installed v1.2s on my D2 this past weekend. This fixed a couple of of minor things:
> 
> 1. The system does not display D1HD anymore
> 
> 2. The OSD goes off normally
> 
> 
> Excellent service!
> 
> Also, he stated the upcoming EQ is a hardware solution & that my unit will need to go back to Anthem. We'll see what happens...




The EQ does not require a HW upgrade. You get a mic and software you run on your laptop. (the mic plugs into the laptop). You run the EQ S/W and then upload the DSP settings that the software generates via rs-232 to the D2. This is information from an Anthem rep (company person, not dealer).


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12320801
> 
> 
> he didn't say they could not decode but rather that the decoding was still initially being implemented in the player



That's still not true. The signal is bitstreamed out of the player and 100% of the decoding takes place in the receiver.


> Quote:
> _secondary surround means surround effects that are added and not part of the original recording_



OK, got it. Those aren't surround effects, but interactivity (PiP audio, button sounds, commentary, etc). And in any case, that's not what the receiver is decoding. In fact, quite the opposite. Receivers just decode the soundtrack (master recording) and nothing more. It's the players that decode and mix in those extra sounds.


If you survey the landscape of HDMI based pre-pros, you'll notice that most of them (Anthem, Halcro, Lexicon, NAD) don't accept bitstream in, only PCM signals. And that's fine. But let's not pretend that this limitation is some sort of advantage over receivers that give you the option of PCM and bitstream input.


There is no light that triggers a warm and fuzzy feeling in consumers. That light means that those receivers are decoding ALL the advanced audio codecs. That's not a trick. That's just the reality of when they were manufactured.


Sanjay


----------



## Max Spivak

I just installed the latest 1.21d.


Where can I get the compatible Settings Editor? http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...omInstall.html is a very old version.


Max


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Spivak* /forum/post/12323127
> 
> 
> I just installed the latest 1.21d.
> 
> 
> Where can I get the compatible Settings Editor? http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...omInstall.html is a very old version.
> 
> 
> Max



LiveVideoSettingsEditor v1.20 is included in the 1.21b/d archive. Setup Editor v1.20 was only included in the 1.21b beta.


PM me with your email address and I can send it to you. I'm not sure on it's stability as I don't use it.


----------



## rsnodgrass

Still struggling to get any 1080i/p output device to work w/ my new D2. I applied 1.21d firmware this evening (from 1.11e) and no luck yet. Spent a few hours trying different settings, different cables, difference source components (PS3, TiVo HD, HD-A1, etc).


Look forward to everything coming together! The D2 has made massive improvements in the audio side of our system and I've heard nothing but stellar results with the D2's Gennum processor. Add in the Room EQ upgrade that should be released soon and that makes the D2 perfect on paper in my book.


----------



## earwit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/12322974
> 
> 
> That's still not true. The signal is bitstreamed out of the player and 100% of the decoding takes place in the receiver. OK, got it. Those aren't surround effects, but interactivity (PiP audio, button sounds, commentary, etc). And in any case, that's not what the receiver is decoding. In fact, quite the opposite. Receivers just decode the soundtrack (master recording) and nothing more. It's the players that decode and mix in those extra sounds.
> 
> 
> If you survey the landscape of HDMI based pre-pros, you'll notice that most of them (Anthem, Halcro, Lexicon, NAD) don't accept bitstream in, only PCM signals. And that's fine. But let's not pretend that this limitation is some sort of advantage over receivers that give you the option of PCM and bitstream input.
> 
> 
> There is no light that triggers a warm and fuzzy feeling in consumers. That light means that those receivers are decoding ALL the advanced audio codecs. That's not a trick. That's just the reality of when they were manufactured.
> 
> 
> Sanjay



I couldn't agree more. I bought the D2 for audio, video quality and flexibility.

I would really prefer the option of PCM or bitstream with Hi-def formats.

and yes it would be great to see screen confirmation of the new audio codec.


Anthem may have to reconsider there position on only having PCM functionality,

with new pre-pro's out like the Integra 9.8 (does PCM and bitsteam) the upcoming B&K reference 70, and more to follow.


It still has not even been confirmed if the upcoming Samsung UP5000 will

decode and output all formats in PCM, or if there will be any player in the

future that can do so..




Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12322130
> 
> 
> The EQ does not require a HW upgrade. You get a mic and software you run on your laptop. (the mic plugs into the laptop). You run the EQ S/W and then upload the DSP settings that the software generates via rs-232 to the D2.



Yep, exactly. No HW upgrade required. Some lucky guys (don't know who







) are ALREADY using the upcoming ARC-1. But don't ask me who, since I don't have a clue who those lucky guys are. And they can't talk about it anyway for now, so...


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/12322974
> 
> 
> That's still not true. The signal is bitstreamed out of the player and 100% of the decoding takes place in the receiver. OK, got it. Those aren't surround effects, but interactivity (PiP audio, button sounds, commentary, etc). And in any case, that's not what the receiver is decoding. In fact, quite the opposite. Receivers just decode the soundtrack (master recording) and nothing more. It's the players that decode and mix in those extra sounds.
> 
> 
> If you survey the landscape of HDMI based pre-pros, you'll notice that most of them (Anthem, Halcro, Lexicon, NAD) don't accept bitstream in, only PCM signals. And that's fine. But let's not pretend that this limitation is some sort of advantage over receivers that give you the option of PCM and bitstream input.
> 
> 
> There is no light that triggers a warm and fuzzy feeling in consumers. That light means that those receivers are decoding ALL the advanced audio codecs. That's not a trick. That's just the reality of when they were manufactured.
> 
> 
> Sanjay



I guess I didn't make my position clear enough in my earlier post. "I didn't really get into it since it's not a priority for me. . . This was just some interesting talk but I have no inclination to verify any of this.







"


I guess the point of the conversation was lossless is lossless and it really makes no difference whether it's over PCM or Bitstream since it's lossless.


Personally, I could care less about PiP audio, button sounds, commentary, etc.... Others may be into those features in which case you may want bitstream capabilities. Give me the movie with lossless sound and I'm a happy camper. Whether it's in Dolby or DTS makes no difference to me.


I remember reading this some time ago:


"Q. What is the difference between decoding Dolby TrueHD/DTS-HD in the player (i.e. sending over HDMI as decoded PCM) vs. decoding in the A/V receiver (i.e. sending over HDMI as encoded Dolby TrueHD/DTS-HD bitstream)?


There is no inherent difference in quality between Dolby TrueHD/DTS-HD being sent over HDMI as decoded PCM vs. encoded bit stream. All Dolby TrueHD/DTS-HD decoders (whether in the player or the A/V receiver) must be certified to meet stringent quality requirements. However, consumers should make sure that their receivers support the number of incoming PCM channels delivered by their source device (e.g. DVD)."

http://www.hdmi.org/learningcenter/faq.aspx#q4_1_3 


Hope I made my position a little less fuzzy.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *earwit* /forum/post/12326064
> 
> 
> I couldn't agree more. I bought the D2 for audio, video quality and flexibility.
> 
> I would really prefer the option of PCM or bitstream with Hi-def formats.
> 
> and yes it would be great to see screen confirmation of the new audio codec.
> 
> 
> Anthem may have to reconsider there position on only having PCM functionality,
> 
> with new pre-pro's out like the Integra 9.8 (does PCM and bitsteam) the upcoming B&K reference 70, and more to follow.
> 
> 
> It still has not even been confirmed if the upcoming Samsung UP5000 will
> 
> decode and output all formats in PCM, or if there will be any player in the
> 
> future that can do so..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob



Just curious, do you want that option for interactivity or some other reason?


I would guess that Anthem has already considered the option of PCM and bitstream but it just won't be in the D2. Perhaps a D3?


----------



## rudolpht

Please, please, PLEASE don't muddy this thread with the PCM vs HBR bitstream debate. There are differences, it would be great if the Anthem had both 8 channel PCM and HBR bitstreaming to give people greater choice, that said, the Anthem is more the capable the VAST majority of material. The debate devolves into a philosophical battle akin to the Flat Earth Society fighting the baubles & chrome crowd, but it can be handled by mental giants in this thread: "Official" "Why you don't need HDMI 1.3" thread vs derailing THIS thread.


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12327508
> 
> 
> I guess the point of the conversation was lossless is lossless and it really makes no difference whether it's over PCM or Bitstream since it's lossless.



And I didn't disagree with that point at all. This is not about PCM vs bitstream.


What I did address was the following part of your post, because 100% of it is incorrect:


> Quote:
> On a side note we briefly talked about the current run of receivers that can decode lossless Dolby and DTS. He said that they are NOT actually decoding the master recording but are actually decoding secondary surround material that was added by the dubbing engineer. This is what triggers the little light to go on in the receiver which makes the consumer all warm and fuzzy inside.



I hope you understand why none of the above information is true.


Sanjay


----------



## rudolpht

Again, please, please, please take it to a thread that cares and stop derailing this one. It was a comment based on manufacturer bravado and not completely accurate regarding the the sound track. Memory may have lapsed, interpretation, whatever, regardless .... *PLEASE take it to a different thread.* You are being disrespectful of the rest of the thread participants as well as somewhat condescending to Jim prodding if he understood. sdurani, you are a GREAT info source and a great contributor, but this discussion would be more appreciated elsewhere....


----------



## barhoram

My rear IR sensing just stopped. I checked the connection...and it seems fine. Re-screwed it down just in case. Checked in setup and Rear IR 1 is set to * for Z1. All of the other emitters are controlling thier respective equipment properly..and I swapped jacks just to check. Any ideas??? I'm at a loss and have spent the last 3 hours troubleshooting this. Thanks.


----------



## christiandumas

This tread is excellent for potential buyer.

My choice is almost done; the D2.

Three quick ones:


1) Where can i see and hear one in province of Quebec?

2) What is the average street price for now?

3) What would you consider the two main competitors of the D2?


Thank's again


----------



## budeone

I still have some handshake issues with the AVM-50. I know its not 1.3 HDMI and I am using Monoprice cables. Do you think getting the newer cables could help solve some of these handshake issues?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/12330836
> 
> 
> I still have some handshake issues with the AVM-50. I know its not 1.3 HDMI and I am using Monoprice cables. Do you think getting the newer cables could help solve some of these handshake issues?



Better cables can help sparklies, some tinting issues, and potentially other issues, BUT, I have top notch cables and I still have the handshaking issues, so you may want to look at return policy before investing heavily.


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Better cables can help sparklies, some tinting issues, and potentially other issues, BUT, I have top notch cables and I still have the handshaking issues, so you may want to look at return policy before investing heavily.



Ok, Thanks


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/12331607
> 
> 
> Ok, Thanks



It won't hurt to try though. It's like chicken soup


----------



## djhamilton

anyone know where I can find a good deal on an AVM50? I sold mine a few weeks ago and now I am kicking myself. I tried some others and now realize how good the AVM50 was. Trying to find another one in the $3500-$3900 range in black.


thanks!


----------



## stanger89

Well to derail the thread, oh wait, maybe I'm putting it back on the rails










I've been soliciting opinions in other subforums here about my options re scaling. I've got a rather lengthy writeup here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=944331 


But the cliff's notes version is I've got a CIH setup, fixed VC lens and I'm looking at replacing my HTPC (which handles my scaling/AR control currently) with a Video Processor, which would also handle my Xbox 360 (w/HD DVD).


The options I'm looking at are basically:
Get the HD upgrade for my AVM-20
Get a comparable/better VP (eg Crystalio II, maybe Radiance XD)
Bag the VP idea and just upgrade my HTPC


I've got a pretty good idea what I gain by going the VP route, so really I'm trying to weigh VP with good AR control, vs HDMI audio and "lame" AR control on the Ahthem.


Primary concerns are (remember I've got a 2.35:1 screen):

Is there only one Custom Crop setting per input?
2.35:1-in16:9 frame content can be properly handled by the Anthem solution correct?
16:9 content can be properly handled (proper horizontal squeeze)?
4:3 content cannot be properly squished with the Anthem solution?
I believe I read that Anthem doesn't plan on adding 2.35:1 output ratio support?
I assume the Anthem assumes square pixels, so output AR == resolution AR?


Anybody running the Anthem scaling solution in a CIH setup? How's it working. Honestly I'd rather have HDMI audio, lower price, and integrated into a current component than a separate component. But from what I'm gathering, it seems like operating the Anthem in a 2.35:1 screen setup would be kind of painful.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/12332307
> 
> 
> [*]Get a comparable/better VP (eg Crystalio II, maybe Radiance XD)



I had the top-of-the-line DVDO VP50 and I sold

it to buy my D2. One of the two best moves I

ever made. The other best move was selling

my Lexicon to buy the D2.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12332949
> 
> 
> I had the top-of-the-line DVDO VP50 and I sold
> 
> it to buy my D2. One of the two best moves I
> 
> ever made. The other best move was selling
> 
> my Lexicon to buy the D2.



I spent sometime with a Lexicon this weekend, and was very impressed with it.


I am wondering what Lexicon you left, and why you found the D2 to be such a good move. I also own a D2 and enjoy it, just trying to get a little more educated.


Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12333345
> 
> 
> I spent sometime with a Lexicon this weekend, and was very impressed with it.
> 
> 
> I am wondering what Lexicon you left,
> 
> 
> Thanks



MC-12b and I went to buy a MC12-HD and the

Lexicon Engineers convinced me to buy the D2.


----------



## Rayjr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12333658
> 
> 
> MC-12b and I went to buy a MC12-HD and the
> 
> Lexicon Engineers convinced me to buy the D2.



Now that one, I didn't see coming


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12332949
> 
> 
> I had the top-of-the-line DVDO VP50 and I sold
> 
> it to buy my D2. One of the two best moves I
> 
> ever made. The other best move was selling
> 
> my Lexicon to buy the D2.



In what way? Because limiting the choice to just Anthem upgrade or external scaler, basically I'm choosing between HDMI audio/integrated solution, and far superior AR control/presets. For example the Crystalio II has the same Gennum VXP processor as the Anthem.


That's really what I'm trying to figure out, just how "bad" the Anthem VP is with a 2.35:1 setup.


----------



## muad'dib

I too was in a similiar situation..


I had the Lexicon MC12, but sold the unit to get the Anthem D2..


The best move I have made in a long time..



The anthem is much better sounding, and the extra flexability is worth the price (sorry, lower price than lexicon)..



Also, I totally hated paying for software upgrades... The Sucked...


Oh well, I'm totally happy now, and just loving my movies and music..


----------



## Max Spivak

I need a bit of help setting up custom resolutions on my D2 for JVC HX1 projector.


How do values for front & back porch and sync width (included in pdf) map to horizontal and vertical start & end values needed by LiveVideoSettingsEditor.

For Pixel Clock Rate, should I use 91.790 MHz provided by JVC or use the formula in settings editor?


Thx,

Max

 

1400x788timing.pdf 109.9345703125k . file


----------



## christiandumas

Hi

I'm almost decided for the D2.


Just want to confirm my choice:


1) Comparing with the AVM50, what are the main difference on audio, video, upconversion...


2) Did some of you hesitate with the D2, AVM50 and Integra separate 9.8?

What made you cut?


Nice thread by the way


Chris


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christiandumas* /forum/post/12338396
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> I'm almost decided for the D2.
> 
> 
> Just want to confirm my choice:
> 
> 
> 1) Comparing with the AVM50, what are the main difference on audio, video, upconversion...
> 
> 
> 2) Did some of you hesitate with the D2, AVM50 and Integra separate 9.8?
> 
> What made you cut?
> 
> 
> Nice thread by the way
> 
> 
> Chris



Hi Chris, the differences have been discussed a number of times in this thread, so have a look around and you'll get some good answers. But basically, the video processing is identical. The sounds quality is excellent on both, but the D2 has additional DSP processing power. While we don't know 100% yet the upcoming room EQ capability from Anthem may be limited to D1,D2 users because of that additional power.


2) I didn't hesitiate! I bought a D1 (in the shop being upgraded to a D1-HD as we speak) because of Anthem's track record of top quality, good service and future upgradeability.


----------



## christiandumas

thank's Gblack.


I read about the EQ; that is sad.

I did have a look on this post, but it is really huge, just wanted not to miss anything


1)Double DSP engine on D2 (I guess it is use to drive another zone ??)

2)DTS 96/24 on D2 (Don't know the use)

3)24/192 upsampling on D2 (That's the killing difference I guess)

4) room EQ (Also important if it works good)


Anything missing?

Thank's

Chris


----------



## gblack

That sums it up - oh and all blue LED's on the D2 


You'll be very happy with either choice. There are lot's of AVM50 owners in this thread that are very pleased with their gear.


----------



## stanger89

Is there a document that goes into detail about the usage of the scaling/processing functions? The manual just seems to brush over the whole thing.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12338498
> 
> 
> While we don't know 100% yet the upcoming room EQ capability from Anthem may be limited to D1,D2 users because of that additional power.



The EQ is available for the D2 only.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12338498
> 
> 
> 2) I didn't hesitiate! I bought a D1 (in the shop being upgraded to a D1-HD as we speak) because of Anthem's track record of top quality, good service and future upgradeability.



Good man.









I had a choice between the Anthem and a mint used Lexicon MC-12.

The Lexicon is a very nice piece of gear obviously but I think I made the right choice.


----------



## The Bogg

Just came back from Paradigm with my freshly updated D1 which is now a D1-HD. They even gave a new box with a new serial number, and another remote control to boot! Looks like version 1.21 on the box. Even came with a new D2 manual so I don't have to download pages off the website.


I'll test it to make sure it works. My Rives-designed listening room is still a month or 2 from completion...can't wait to hear and see the new gear (including calibrated Sony Black Pearl and Prismasonic FE-1500r). I'm also waiting for the new Samsung Duo player before jumping into the high-def player arena. Bought an Oppo 980 for standard dvd to be upconverted in the Anthem.


BTW, bought the Blue Jeans Cable hdmi cables...they weren't kidding about the thickness and difficulty with bending these to conform, they are built very sturdily! Hope the Anthem likes them.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/12344803
> 
> 
> Hope the Anthem likes them.



You better buy some of *THESE* before you ruin your new D1-HD


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12344872
> 
> 
> You better buy some of *THESE* before you ruin your new D1-HD



I always forgot to order these, just placed an order.


thanks for the reminder.


----------



## THX Mode

Excuse any ignorance on this post - I've been away for a while...


Most posts I'm reading have some variant of 1.2x running as firmware, whereas I'm still on the 1.11 (Nov '06) version - the same as the website.


Why should we have to call Anthem to get the 'latest' firmware?


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX Mode* /forum/post/12349108
> 
> 
> Why should we have to call Anthem to get the 'latest' firmware?



Because some versions fix certain issues with some configs and break things with other configs. And the latest FW may not fix an issue you have. It's better for all D2 owners if Anthem support knows who has what version of the firmware. They have enough to do without having to deal with problems that could have been avoided by not doing a firmware upgrade or loading the wrong version.


larry


----------



## gdc

As Larry says, it is important for Anthem to have most of it's customers running a stable firmware. The updates that have been released to some customers are attempts to get really specific problems ironed out. If you have plain-Jane devices and they work well, then there is no reason to update.


With that said, I do think that Anthem could release stable updates more often. Since their currently shipping products use 1.2 (or some variant) they could post that on their site. It has been over a year (!) since they posted an official firmware.


They probably planned to release a firmware, but then there was a little problem, and then another little glitch, and another thing that cropped up to fix. Pretty soon, months go by and the natives are getting restless!


I know for *my setup* that going from 1.11 to 1.11e made a BIG difference in stability. Little annoyances in HDMI switching (or should I say glitching) went away. I've had 9 months of stable performance that I would not have had if I stayed with the "official" release. So I can understand why many want to try firmware versions to see if their gremlins go away.


----------



## The Bogg

BM as in bouncy mascot! Ahem.










I see through the top cover that the board is red, what colour was the "older" one with the 9350 chipset?


I'm planning on using a SpeakerCraft IR setup. From what I can see, I can plug the IR receiver directly into the D2 without buying the active power source, is that right? Will it work without the Anthem being turned on? If not, then it's not any use to me since I have to control the Lutron Graphik Eye too and the Anthem may not be on if I'm just listening to 2channel music (on my other, linked system).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/12352171
> 
> 
> BM as in bouncy mascot! Ahem.


----------



## Don O’Brien

Gordon,

It is great you are stable with your move to 1.11e. I am at 1.11 with the 1080i problems and using 720p for all inputs and the single output. Would you mind giving me an idea of your

...source device -model number

...type of connection

....input resolution

...output type and output resolution


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/12344803
> 
> 
> BTW, bought the Blue Jeans Cable hdmi cables...they weren't kidding about the thickness and difficulty with bending these to conform, they are built very sturdily! Hope the Anthem likes them.



I just got those same cables for my system (now running to Pioneer's 60" Elite since I couldn't address the shaking video issue with my old Elite RPTV).


Yes, they're crazy stiff, but the performance is great. None of the blue-screen/handshaking issues that others have reported, even with a Series 3 TiVo.


-Ravi


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

My dealer... integrety home theater in CO is part of the room EQ beta test. They recieved their Mic last week. I will keep everyone posted on the results when I get them.


-Bob


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/12344803
> 
> 
> Just came back from Paradigm with my freshly updated D1 which is now a D1-HD.



What was your turn around time Mr Bogg? Mine's in for surgery as well and I'm anxious!


----------



## The Bogg

Less than 2 weeks. I dropped it off and picked it up directly.


----------



## gblack

yeah I'm a local too. dropped off last week. Getting close I assume!


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Don O'Brien* /forum/post/12352398
> 
> 
> Gordon,
> 
> It is great you are stable with your move to 1.11e. I am at 1.11 with the 1080i problems and using 720p for all inputs and the single output. Would you mind giving me an idea of your
> 
> ...source device -model number
> 
> ...type of connection
> 
> ....input resolution
> 
> ...output type and output resolution



Sources:

Oppo 970 DVD\\SACD\\CD player HDMI @ 480i

Samsung H260-F OTA ATSC tuner HDMI @ native (480-1080 depnding on program)

TivoHD HDMI @ native


Anthem is upsampling all sources to 1080 (other than HDTV broadcast at 1080)


HDMI out to


Projector:

Sony Ruby @ 1080p


which 1080i problem? The 1080i bug where it doubles lines or something?


If you have that, then I'm pretty sure a later (>1.11e) firmware fixed it.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

gdc what version are you using. I have Oppo 980, Scientific Atlanta 8300, XBox 360 all connected to Anthem then to a HDMI splitter to Sony Pearl and Sony KDS60A3000 working great.


My Tivo S3HD connection is getting video drops every 10 - 60 seconds.


Will a newer software help at all?


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/12362691
> 
> 
> My Tivo S3HD connection is getting video drops every 10 - 60 seconds.



Are you using component video & optical audio (like you should







)


----------



## PooperScooper

Looks like I'm the D2 problem magnet. After talking to Nick it looks like I may suffer the s-video clock problem they've seen. I no longer see the setup menu on my plasma. There's one or two things I'm going to try. I could be getting my 4th D2 - an Anthem record.







I also found out that the mics for the EQ are programmed with the serial number of the D2 (at least that's what I thought he said).


larry


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/12362691
> 
> 
> gdc what version are you using. I have Oppo 980, Scientific Atlanta 8300, XBox 360 all connected to Anthem then to a HDMI splitter to Sony Pearl and Sony KDS60A3000 working great.
> 
> 
> My Tivo S3HD connection is getting video drops every 10 - 60 seconds.
> 
> 
> Will a newer software help at all?



I'm using 1.11e. My TivoHD (the newer/cheaper version of Tivo S3) is working alright, but takes a second or more to HDMI handshake when I switch channels. When I first switch to it (say I've been watching a DVD) it goes crazy for about five seconds trying to sync properly.


I think it's the Tivo HDMI implementation. My other devices work fine via HDMI. As DrHankZ points out, there is NO advantage to using HDMI vs. component when using any HDTV device, since the highest video resolution is 1080i (well within component capabilities) and the audio is Dolby Digital bitstream (which can be handled via an optical/coax digital cable).


So I am switching my TivoHD to component + optical this weekend. I would think your problem might be solved by going to component + optical as well.


The only reason I like HDMI for HDTV sources is just the one cable easy connection. But if it exposes poor manufacturer implemntations, it's not worth it!


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12363182
> 
> 
> Are you using component video & optical audio (like you should
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



I have everything connected to the Anthem using component and optical. I am going to the pearl and the tv using hdmi.


----------



## stanger89

Alright guys, I think I've got a better handle on how the scaling functions work, but I'm going to try and sumarize, both for my own benefit and to run it by the experts here to see if I've got it right.


First regarding presets:

You can only save one custom crop per input. However you can have several copies of each input (DVD, DVD2, DVD3, DVD4) ie overlays, each allowing it's own custom crop setting (as well as other video settings). So in essence you have 4 custom crop presets per inputs.


Question regarding overlays, are the only overlays available the ones listed in the manual (ie DVD 1-4 and TV1-4) or are they just examples, does each input 4 overlays? Is it limited to 4 overlays?


OK, next question... Crops.

I'm having a little trouble picturing how the input "crops" work. As near as I can tell, the output is basically always 16:9, or more correctly, it's always square pixels, so for my 720p projector, as far as the Anthem is concerned output is always 16:9 (even though it's really 2.35:1 due to the lens). Not the end of the world.


My uncertainty comes from the input side. I see input settings for 4:3 and 16:9, but how do these work? Specifically lets discuss SD/DVD. The reason I'm concerned about this is that DVD can be either 4:3 or 16:9. If I'm feeding the Anthem a 480i signal, how do the 4:3 and 16:9 input crop settings work? Do they just tell the Anthem that the signal should be interpreted as 4:3 or 16:9 respectively, or do they actually crop the input (ie does 4:3 crop the outside 1/3 of the image)?


I guess how do you deal with these situations on the Anthem, what input and output?

standard 480i (4:3 ratio)
Anamorphic 480i (16:9 ratio)
Letterbox 480i (16:9 in a 4:3 frame)


What are the options in the Custom Crop menu? They don't have that in the manual, what controls are actually there? Basically, I guess my biggest stumbling block is I don't understand how the Anthem can tell what the input aspect ratio is.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12363529
> 
> 
> I also found out that the mics for the EQ are programmed with the serial number of the D2 (at least that's what I thought he said).
> 
> 
> larry



That is indeed the case - was determined in a posting quite a while back.


/\\/\\


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12363529
> 
> 
> Looks like I'm the D2 problem magnet. After talking to Nick it looks like I may suffer the s-video clock problem they've seen. I no longer see the setup menu on my plasma. There's one or two things I'm going to try. I could be getting my 4th D2 - an Anthem record.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also found out that the mics for the EQ are programmed with the serial number of the D2 (at least that's what I thought he said).
> 
> 
> larry


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12369616



Rob,


I saw this post on my blackberry, and thought you had problems. That would have just fueled those crazy Anthem lovers in the Los Angeles group


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12369870
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 
> I saw this post on my blackberry, and thought you had problems. That would have just fueled those crazy Anthem lovers in the Los Angeles group



Well, if they read Pooper Scooper's post, they will get a lot of fuel anyway!


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/12363631
> 
> 
> So I am switching my TivoHD to component + optical this weekend. I would think your problem might be solved by going to component + optical as well.



I just switched HDMI to component, and all the weird flashing and color shifts when switching to the TivoHD are gone. It's stable. Still takes too long to go from channel to channel, but I'm not seeing ANY visual shmutz.


The Tivo is an OK system, but not the best engineered box!


----------



## AnthemAVM

I was able to get the Motorola 6416 Verizon FIOS to work on HDMI with the Anthem. I went into the service menu and switch settings, and it works.


Thanks a bunch to John for teaching me how to get into the menu.


Michael


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12370332
> 
> 
> Thanks a bunch to John for teaching me how to get into the menu.



So the infamous amped up Integra owner has a good side too?


Sanjay


----------



## bluemark81

I am currently looking for a new TV (1080p) to take advantage of the processing ability of my AVM50. I am looking for something in the 58" to 60" size. Currently, I am considering the Panasonic Plasma PZ700 and the Sony SXRD rear projection, which is roughly half the price of the Panny. The PZ750and SXRD XBR are other choices, however, I'm not sure if they are worth the extra money. I'm wondering if anyone with the AVM50 or D2 have experiences with any of these sets or others as well? I would consider a Pioneer, but can't justify the extra cost. What about LCD? I am in a relatively dark basement home theater room. Thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12371673
> 
> 
> I am currently looking for a new TV (1080p) to take advantage of the processing ability of my AVM50. I am looking for something in the 58" to 60" size. Currently, I am considering the Panasonic Plasma PZ700 and the Sony SXRD rear projection, which is roughly half the price of the Panny. The PZ750and SXRD XBR are other choices, however, I'm not sure if they are worth the extra money. I'm wondering if anyone with the AVM50 or D2 have experiences with any of these sets or others as well? I would consider a Pioneer, but can't justify the extra cost. What about LCD? I am in a relatively dark basement home theater room. Thanks.



In the 60" size - I would recommend the SONY SXRD

Rear Projection. I use a SONY SXRD 1080p Front Projector

and a lot of other Anthem owners do as well.


This is one case where *"SIZE MATTERS"* - The Bigger The Better










My display is 156"


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12371673
> 
> 
> I am currently looking for a new TV (1080p) to take advantage of the processing ability of my AVM50. I am looking for something in the 58" to 60" size. Currently, I am considering the Panasonic Plasma PZ700 and the Sony SXRD rear projection, which is roughly half the price of the Panny. The PZ750and SXRD XBR are other choices, however, I'm not sure if they are worth the extra money. I'm wondering if anyone with the AVM50 or D2 have experiences with any of these sets or others as well? I would consider a Pioneer, but can't justify the extra cost. What about LCD? I am in a relatively dark basement home theater room. Thanks.



Being an owner of a Sony A3000 series set, and my mixing partner just buying a Panny 700, I would recommend the Panasonic if you could swing it...


While I like the look of the Sony, and it's quite a bargain for the price, my sets geometry is a bit off and it definitely has a bit of overscan.. The 700 is beautiful, quiet and has an amazing picture.


I personally don't think that the upgrade to the 750 is worth it because of the tweaking you can do inside the Anthems...


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/12371718
> 
> 
> Being an owner of a Sony A3000 series set, and my mixing partner just buying a Panny 700, I would recommend the Panasonic if you could swing it...
> 
> 
> While I like the look of the Sony, and it's quite a bargain for the price, my sets geometry is a bit off and it definitely has a bit of overscan.. The 700 is beautiful, quiet and has an amazing picture.
> 
> 
> I personally don't think that the upgrade to the 750 is worth it because of the tweaking you can do inside the Anthems...



Thanks....that is what I was wondering about upgrading from the 700 to the 750.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/12371718
> 
> 
> Being an owner of a Sony A3000 series set, and my mixing partner just buying a Panny 700, I would recommend the Panasonic if you could swing it...
> 
> 
> While I like the look of the Sony, and it's quite a bargain for the price, my sets geometry is a bit off and it definitely has a bit of overscan.. The 700 is beautiful, quiet and has an amazing picture.
> 
> 
> I personally don't think that the upgrade to the 750 is worth it because of the tweaking you can do inside the Anthems...



I always had my mind made up on the Panny and got to looking at the SXRD the other day and it has a beautiful picture for half the price of the Panny. Only thing is that I will be back into a rear projection which I currenlty own and I was hoping to get something wall mountable. But thanks for your input....lots to consider.


----------



## PooperScooper

Please take the display discussion to the proper forum(s). Thanks.


larry


----------



## rafsel

Hi all,


Well I finally took the plunge. I'm waiting patiently







for my AVM20 to be returned to me as a '50.


So in preparation for the big event, I am now thinking about how to approach the set up.


I have the following equipment:
JVC RS1
Oppo 970HD
ExpressVu 9200 PVR
PS3 (BluRay player)


I also have the following video calibration tools/equipment available:
GetGray Calibration DVD
Spyder colorimeter
HCFR software
Radio Shack SPL meter
Rives Audio CD

I'm wondering if anyone would care to give me some advice on how to approach the initial setup and video calibration of my system. Here are some of the initial questions that come to mind:
what is the preferred connection method for audio: coax, optical or hdmi?
what is the preferred connection method for video: hdmi or component?
should I use more than one method simultaneously if possible?
how should I approach video calibration?
set the sources and the projector to "default" settings and make all adjustments in the AVM50?
use GetGray and my eyes initially and then later use the Spyder with the HCFR software to setup each source?


I have loads of other questions but I'll control myself.










Any general or specific advice on the above (or anything else) would be much appreciated.


Thanks,

Martin


----------



## bluemark81

I just got my first DVD Audio and I'm a bit confused regarding setting on both the Anthem and the Oppo. It is supposed to be a DTS disk (Blue Man Group "The Complex"), but I don't see the DTS red light come on the Anthem. I have been able to get both stereo and different surround modes, but shouldn't it all be in DTS? What settings do I have to change on both the AVM and Oppo to get the best audio and listening experience? Thanks,


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12373638
> 
> 
> Please take the display discussion to the proper forum(s). Thanks.
> 
> 
> larry



Sorry, I was looking for advice on displays for the AVM50, so I thought this was the best forum to ask the question.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rafsel* /forum/post/12374007
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone would care to give me some advice on how to approach the initial setup and video calibration of my system. Here are some of the initial questions that come to mind:
> what is the preferred connection method for audio: coax, optical or hdmi?
> what is the preferred connection method for video: hdmi or component?
> should I use more than one method simultaneously if possible?
> how should I approach video calibration?
> set the sources and the projector to "default" settings and make all adjustments in the AVM50?
> use GetGray and my eyes initially and then later use the Spyder with the HCFR software to setup each source?
> 
> 
> I have loads of other questions but I'll control myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any general or specific advice on the above (or anything else) would be much appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Martin



Please look at the 1st post, lots of answers or direct jumps to answers there.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12375586
> 
> 
> I just got my first DVD Audio and I'm a bit confused regarding setting on both the Anthem and the Oppo. It is supposed to be a DTS disk (Blue Man Group "The Complex"), but I don't see the DTS red light come on the Anthem. I have been able to get both stereo and different surround modes, but shouldn't it all be in DTS? What settings do I have to change on both the AVM and Oppo to get the best audio and listening experience? Thanks,



No you want the DVD-A Lossless MLP (Meridan Lossless Packing) LPCM tracks not the lossy DTS track. The DTS track is on the DVD-A so people without DVD-A capability can hear it. In other words you are already listening to the correct tracks.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12376000
> 
> 
> Please look at the 1st post, lots of answers or direct jumps to answers there.



Is that why my post got lost too? Because I looked through the first post and all the links that would appear to relate, but nothing gives the answers I'm looking for. I still can't find a concise explanation of, for example, what exactly 16:9 and 4:3 crop inputs do, do they actually crop, or do they specify the AR? What exactly are the parameters for the Custom Crop (it seems to be top secret)?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/12376094
> 
> 
> No you want the DVD-A Lossless MLP (Meridan Lossless Packing) LPCM tracks not the lossy DTS track. The DTS track is on the DVD-A so people without DVD-A capability can hear it. In other words you are already listening to the correct tracks.



I'm not sure if I'm following you?


My Oppo's downmix is set to 5.1 Ch. Digital output is set to Raw as opposed to PCM. I can't seem to hilight the LCPM rate which is set to 48K. Pro Logic II is set to auto as is the Mode.


There are several other settings which I can't seem to adjust because they can't be highlighted such as SACD priority which is set to Multi-channel and DVD-Audio Mode which is set to DVD-Audio.


Also, on the Blueman disk, I have three audio settings including PCM stereo, DTS 5.1, DVD Audio. Which is considered best?


----------



## Jongoldman

My D2 has been working fine for the past 6 months.


Yesterday my wife was watching a movie over component through our Fireball and there were green specs in the video. Later in the evening we tried to watch a BluRay movie from our Panasonic BD10 and it kept going in and out. We switched to a different movie on our Oppo 970 (with HDMI) and it worked OK.


This morning I realized the cable was loose on the BluRay player and I thought everything was OK.


Went back to the Fireball and got sound, no video. Cable box worked sporadically, TIVO Series 3 coming and going. Went and checked all cables again, tested BluRay right to TV (Panasonic 65" plasma) and it worked fine.


Its now to the point where I get absolutely no video out of the anthem and only get audio on Component/Coax Digital Audio from the Fireball.


I think I'm running 1.11 in some form or another. Any thoughts? Dealer thinks we have to ship it back to them, anyone have an idea on how long it takes for them to fix it? Are they able to save settings when you send it in for repair?


----------



## gblack

Just (Friday) picked up my D1-HD from Anthem after getting the HD upgrade. For those interested, it was in the shop a week (friday to friday) and I was a local pick up, so the turn around was nice and quick.


The unit came back in a new box labelled "D1-HD" with a new users manual. Looking through the top, I can see the video board - it's red. So I don't know if that's any indicator of which VXP chip rev Anthem is using now. But I can say that the unit doesn't seem to run too hot. I know there were lots of complaints in this thread about overheating. Could be that Anthem is now using the lower wattage VXP chip. I remember seeing a D2 at a store and thinking how hot it was (right hand side by the power supply in particular). My unit is no where near as hot. Just warm.


The unit reports it self as a D2 (







) running SW version 1.21. Setup was quite easy and it seems the out of the box config is 'good enough' to get someone up and running in a plug and play manner. though as we all know there's a ton of options and config to play with. Although I have to say, I had to do some 'modifications' to my BDI stand to cut some holes in the back of the stand where the new HDMI jacks are. I didn't want my cables to make a hard right angle turn, so I cut some holes and the cables go straight into the back of the D1. Which leads to another thought - how lousy a connection is HDMI!! I can't believe some EE's and mech engineers created that connector. It is so sloppy and delicate. DVI or Firewire or USB connectors are so much more robust. BTW, I'm using UltraLink cables, and they slide in easily enough into the D1 but feel a little too loose.


My prior room and speaker and source config settings were wiped out through the upgrade so I had to reconfigure the system.


Everything is working great through the video processor save my Apple TV. Couldn't get HDMI to work at all with it and checking this forum, I see that that is a known problem with the ATV. I changed it to component and optical audio and it is fine now.


My cable box is a scientific atlanta 8300HD PVR from Rogers in Toronto. It's hooked up via HDMI and while there are pauses (HDCP/HDMI handshakes I presume) when I change from HD to SD channels or HD channels of different resolution, it works well nonetheless.


When I first connected my DVD player (a second gen Toshiba from 1998 - they don't build them like they used to







) it worked no problem via component, but the Anthem OSD was reporting No Video detected, even though it was on my screen. That went away (not sure if before or after I restarted the D1), and it now correctly reports 480i as input on the display.


I'm very pleased with the video quality - DVD's are very film like. A Blu-Ray player is my Xmas wish list, but not sure how much better it could get! (I'm running it into a Panasonic Plasma from their commercial line with 1366x768 res. But I set D1 to output as 720P. Any thoughts from Panny owners on Native res or whether 1080i or 720P is better would be appreciated).


All in all, I'm quite satisified. I haven't had any of the glitches or incompatibility problems (other than my Apple TV) reported in this thread. So for those sitting on the sidelines and wondering about the upgrade, I can say it was smooth for me.


Next up is the Room EQ upgrade whenever Anthem releases that. Until then, I'm enjoying the setup.


----------



## The Bogg

Congrats gblack, you beat me to the punch...I haven't had a chance to unpack mine yet despite having had it for a week now.

My understanding is that the red boards use the cooler running 9351 video chip.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12377017
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if I'm following you?
> 
> 
> Also, on the Blueman disk, I have three audio settings including PCM stereo, DTS 5.1, DVD Audio. Which is considered best?



Bluemark, just chiming in on this point, you want either the DTS 5.1 mix or the DVD Audio mix from this disc. I happen to be very fond of DTS audio, and DTS-only discs, which pre-dated DVD-A by quite a while. Most people forget that DTS-only disc format ever existed (check out www.dts.com for the remaining online shop of DTS recordings). In a nutshell, they are some of the best multichannel recordings ever made (in many cases better than DVD-audio). The format never really took off, but DTS CD's like Lyle Lovett's Joshua Judges Ruth and several others are nothing short of amazing. DVD-A ain't so bad either, and I wish that format had taken off more as well, but I digress. Bottom line is that your disc here is a DVD-audio disc (not DTS-only), and therefore it includes the standard 6 channnel DVD-A mix as well as a DTS 6-channel mix. More choice is not a bad thing 


Basically, try DTS 5.1 option on the disc, make sure the D2 is now seeing the DTS signal (DTS light should come on), see how that sounds for ya. Then, switch to the DVD-Audio track on the disc, and see how you like that. You may not notice much difference between the two with Blueman (lots of drum and bass), but with orchestral or jazz or other less-processed music, you will be more apt to hear distinct differences.


Let us know what ya think.


Hope this helps,

-Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Congrats gblack, great post by the way. It's nice to re-live that first experience of unpacking the D2 and listening/seeing for the first time.


By the way, I too have an AppleTV and have always had to connect it via Component and Optical audio cables. For kicks, I recently tried HDMI from it again, and it still isn't recognized at all by the D2, despite Apple's update a while back, which was supposed to improve HDMI signaling among other things. As others have noted, there is no need for HDMI with this of course, except for the nice part of simpler cabling. Ahh well, we can't have everything, we'd get bored right? Big fan of the AppleTV, like it alot for photo sharing with guests, music jukebox during parties, etc., but it definitely requires Component and Optical outs with the D2.


Thanks again for sharing your early impressions.


-Brian


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/12378653
> 
> 
> Bluemark, just chiming in on this point, you want either the DTS 5.1 mix or the DVD Audio mix from this disc. I happen to be very fond of DTS audio, and DTS-only discs, which pre-dated DVD-A by quite a while. Most people forget that DTS-only disc format ever existed (check out www.dts.com for the remaining online shop of DTS recordings). In a nutshell, they are some of the best multichannel recordings ever made (in many cases better than DVD-audio). The format never really took off, but DTS CD's like Lyle Lovett's Joshua Judges Ruth and several others are nothing short of amazing. DVD-A ain't so bad either, and I wish that format had taken off more as well, but I digress. Bottom line is that your disc here is a DVD-audio disc (not DTS-only), and therefore it includes the standard 6 channnel DVD-A mix as well as a DTS 6-channel mix. More choice is not a bad thing
> 
> 
> Basically, try DTS 5.1 option on the disc, make sure the D2 is now seeing the DTS signal (DTS light should come on), see how that sounds for ya. Then, switch to the DVD-Audio track on the disc, and see how you like that. You may not notice much difference between the two with Blueman (lots of drum and bass), but with orchestral or jazz or other less-processed music, you will be more apt to hear distinct differences.
> 
> 
> Let us know what ya think.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps,
> 
> -Brian




Brian:


Thanks, but going back to my original post, the red DTS light is not coming on on my AVM50. The only light that I am able to make the AVM turn on is either the red THX light or the Dolby Pro Logic IIx when I switch through different modes. I tried it with a movie disk encoded with DTS to make sure the light worked, and it does come on. I've tried the Blueman disk on all three settings, but I still can't get the DTS light to come on. I don't know if this is due to a setting within the AVM or the Oppo.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12377017
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if I'm following you?
> 
> 
> My Oppo's downmix is set to 5.1 Ch. Digital output is set to Raw as opposed to PCM. I can't seem to hilight the LCPM rate which is set to 48K. Pro Logic II is set to auto as is the Mode.
> 
> 
> There are several other settings which I can't seem to adjust because they can't be highlighted such as SACD priority which is set to Multi-channel and DVD-Audio Mode which is set to DVD-Audio.
> 
> 
> Also, on the Blueman disk, I have three audio settings including PCM stereo, DTS 5.1, DVD Audio. Which is considered best?



Do you have the player stopped when trying to make those changes? The LCPM sampling rate is only for S/PDIF and according to the Oppo manual can't be changed if HDMI is on, in any case you would really want the Anthem to upsample not the player.


The SACD and DVD-A priority settings basically select the layer on the disk it will default to. For example your Blue Man Group I believe has three tracks. A DVD-A Stereo track(PCM), DTS 5.1 track, (not sure if it has a stereo DTS track), and a 5.1 MLP DVD-A track. If you really want to listen to the lossy DTS track select DVD-Video on the above DVD-A preference setting.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/12379309
> 
> 
> Do you have the player stopped when trying to make those changes? The LCPM sampling rate is only for S/PDIF and according to the Oppo manual can't be changed if HDMI is on, in any case you would really want the Anthem to upsample not the player.
> 
> 
> The SACD and DVD-A priority settings basically select the layer on the disk it will default to. For example your Blue Man Group I believe has three tracks. A DVD-A Stereo track(PCM), DTS 5.1 track, (not sure if it has a stereo DTS track), and a 5.1 MLP DVD-A track. If you really want to listen to the lossy DTS track select DVD-Video on the above DVD-A preference setting.



I have tried making changes to the Oppos settings when stopped and playing. I don't see any difference. If I want the Anthem to do the upsampling, what settings do I need to select? The disk is a 96/24 disk. I don't necessarily want to listen to a "lossy" signal, but my questions were:


1. Why is the DTS light on my Anthem not coming on?

2. What settings do I need to have my Oppo and Anthem set to to get what is generally regarded as the best sound?


I can change the LPCM rate as you said by turning my HDMI Audio to off, but I still can't change the SACD priority or the DVD-Audio Mode of the Oppo.


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12379447
> 
> 
> Why is the DTS light on my Anthem not coming on?



The Oppo has built in decoders for DD, DTS, MLP and DSD. It's possible that your Oppo is decoding the DTS track to PCM internally before transmitting it to the Anthem.


Sanjay


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/12379496
> 
> 
> The Oppo has built in decoders for DD, DTS, MLP and DSD. It's possible that your Oppo is decoding the DTS track to PCM internally before transmitting it to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Sanjay



So how do I prevent this from happening to allow the Anthem to do it. I know there are several members here that have both the Anthem and the Oppo. These people must have encountered what I am experiencing.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/12378695
> 
> 
> Congrats gblack, great post by the way. It's nice to re-live that first experience of unpacking the D2 and listening/seeing for the first time.
> 
> 
> By the way, I too have an AppleTV and have always had to connect it via Component and Optical audio cables. For kicks, I recently tried HDMI from it again, and it still isn't recognized at all by the D2, despite Apple's update a while back, which was supposed to improve HDMI signaling among other things. As others have noted, there is no need for HDMI with this of course, except for the nice part of simpler cabling. Ahh well, we can't have everything, we'd get bored right? Big fan of the AppleTV, like it alot for photo sharing with guests, music jukebox during parties, etc., but it definitely requires Component and Optical outs with the D2.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for sharing your early impressions.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Thanks! Yeah no joy with HDMI and Apple TV. Without this forum, I would have been fiddling with it for hours until I read of similar problems!


I have to say that the D1-HD has improved the pic quality of the Apple TV. Digital photos always seem to have a 'digital' look to them before with obvious signs of the Apple TV resizing the larger photo res for the relatively low-pixel count of HDTV. The D1-HD makes the pics look much more film like. (I'm running 1080i out of my apple TV and then 720 out of the D1-HD).


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/12378623
> 
> 
> Congrats gblack, you beat me to the punch...I haven't had a chance to unpack mine yet despite having had it for a week now.
> 
> My understanding is that the red boards use the cooler running 9351 video chip.



LOL - thanks Bogg, I thought you would have beat me for sure! Good luck with the setup. Give your self a couple of hours. Today was a crappy weather day, so a good day for me to spending tweaking.


----------



## obie_fl

I have the Complex DVD-A and an Oppo, I will give it a shot and let you know.


Again DTS is the lossy track you keep asking what is better that would be the lossless DVD-A MLP track not the DTS track. Let me do some checks and I'll be back.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/12379704
> 
> 
> I have the Complex DVD-A and an Oppo, I will give it a shot and let you know.
> 
> 
> Again DTS is the lossy track you keep asking what is better that would be the lossless DVD-A MLP track not the DTS track. Let me do some checks and I'll be back.



Thanks


----------



## obie_fl

OK think I saw your problem. You need to physically eject the DVD-A or SACD to change the SACD and "DVD-Audio Mode" priority settings.


Once you change DVD-A mode to "DVD-Video' you should actually play the DVD-Video layer when you next start the disc. You should then be able to go into the disk audio setup menu and select DTS5.1. You haven't seen this menu yet because you have been playing the DVD-A lossless layer.


For the recored I have Digital Output set to Raw and HDMI to "Auto". I don't believe most of the others settings matter in this case.


Again the DVD-A is the highest audio quality layer not the lossy DTS DVD video layer. Another hint if the DVD-A is mastered with a sampling rate of 96khz or 192khz make sure your HDMI video is set to 720P or 1080i otherwise it will get downsampled to 48Khz.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/12380021
> 
> 
> OK think I saw your problem. You need to physically eject the DVD-A or SACD to change the SACD and "DVD-Audio Mode" priority settings.
> 
> 
> Once you change DVD-A mode to "DVD-Video' you should actually play the DVD-Video layer when you next start the disc. You should then be able to go into the disk audio setup menu and select DTS5.1. You haven't seen this menu yet because you have been playing the DVD-A lossless layer.
> 
> 
> For the recored I have Digital Output set to Raw and HDMI to "Auto". I don't believe most of the others settings matter in this case.
> 
> 
> Again the DVD-A is the highest audio quality layer not the lossy DTS DVD video layer. Another hint if the DVD-A is mastered with a sampling rate of 96khz or 192khz make sure your HDMI video is set to 720P or 1080i otherwise it will get downsampled to 48Khz.



Tom:


Thanks alot! Now, that you have figured that out for me, if I understand you, I actually shouldn't change the DVD-A mode to DVD-video if I want the best audio quality?


I also have Digital Output set to Raw and HDMI to "Auto". Does your red DTS light come on, or will this only happen if I change the DVD-A mode to video?


You say to "make sure your HDMI video is set to 720P or 1080i otherwise it will get downsampled to 48Khz" Where do I set this? I know my Anthem is set to output 1080i.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12379674
> 
> 
> Thanks! Yeah no joy with HDMI and Apple TV. Without this forum, I would have been fiddling with it for hours until I read of similar problems!
> 
> 
> I have to say that the D1-HD has improved the pic quality of the Apple TV. Digital photos always seem to have a 'digital' look to them before with obvious signs of the Apple TV resizing the larger photo res for the relatively low-pixel count of HDTV. The D1-HD makes the pics look much more film like. (I'm running 1080i out of my apple TV and then 720 out of the D1-HD).



gblack, try running 720p out of the AppleTV instead of 1080i...the native rate of an AppleTV is 720p, and you may be better off letting the Anthem have that, and do with it what it may, in your case, nothing but passing it on to the display. To force the AppleTV to interlace, then the D1-HD to deinterlace and scale down to 720p, is not ideal. Let your eyes be the ultimate judge, but I've always preferred 720p out of the AppleTV.


FWIW,

Brian


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12380159
> 
> 
> Tom:
> 
> 
> Thanks alot! Now, that you have figured that out for me, if I understand you, I actually shouldn't change the DVD-A mode to DVD-video if I want the best audio quality?
> 
> 
> I also have Digital Output set to Raw and HDMI to "Auto". Does your red DTS light come on, or will this only happen if I change the DVD-A mode to video?
> 
> 
> You say to "make sure your HDMI video is set to 720P or 1080i otherwise it will get downsampled to 48Khz" Where do I set this? I know my Anthem is set to output 1080i.



Correct leave it at DVD-A if you want the best audio, sometimes there is video on the DVD-V layer not on the DVD-A layer so you may still want to check it out.


Correct DTS will only come on if you are playing the video layer and have the DTS track selected on the disk. The DVD-A MLP audio is unpacked in the player and sent out as PCM much like Dolby TrueHD on HD DVD and Blu-ray.


There is a button on the remote (forget label) that switches HDMI resolution, the disk has to be stopped. For normal DVD watching you would still want 480i so the Anthem does the upscaling. The only time you need to increase it is for hi resolution audio such has DVD-A and SACD.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/12380243
> 
> 
> Correct leave it at DVD-A if you want the best audio, sometimes there is video on the DVD-V layer not on the DVD-A layer so you may still want to check it out.
> 
> 
> Correct DTS will only come on if you are playing the video layer and have the DTS track selected on the disk. The DVD-A MLP audio is unpacked in the player and sent out as PCM much like Dolby TrueHD on HD DVD and Blu-ray.
> 
> 
> There is a button on the remote (forget label) that switches HDMI resolution, the disk has to be stopped. For normal DVD watching you would still want 480i so the Anthem does the upscaling. The only time you need to increase it is for hi resolution audio such has DVD-A and SACD.



Thanks again. Another question. Under the Audio Setup Page, there is an option for LPCM rate. Mine is set at 48 k. Should I change this sampling rate to 92 k to equal that of the disk I am playing?


----------



## obie_fl

I believe that setting is for S/PDIF only and can't be changed if you have HDMI enabled.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/12380387
> 
> 
> I believe that setting is for S/PDIF only and can't be changed if you have HDMI enabled.



Can you explain to me why 720p or 1080i has to be selected? I thought these were for video only.


Do I have to make any special settings to the Anthem to play DVD-A?


----------



## obie_fl

720P and 1080i increase the data rate on the HDMI bus. Stupid but that is the way it works.


If you have a 7.1 setup you might want to apply DPIIx or some other 7.1 mode to get sound out the back on 5.1 DVD-A.


----------



## mkass25

I have an Anthem Statement D2 with v 1.12s and have 2 problems with it.


I have it connected the following way:


- Sony BDP S300 HDMI to Anthem

- motorola cable box DVI to HDMI cable to Anthem

- Xbox 360 component cable to Anthem


HDMI out from Anthem to Pioneer Elite PRO-FHD1

Component out from Anthem to Pioneer


PROBLEM 1


When viewing all sources - things go fine initially, but all of a sudden and for no reason i would sporadically lose the video connection. This happens regardless of the source I use or the input (hdmi / component) to the Anthem or output (component / hdmi) from the Anthem. Mid way through the viewing, the screen would suddenly go blank (HDMI Out) or a blue striped screen will appear (component out) and the Anthem will state that the input is 540i (when it was really 1080i or 1080p) or some off the wall resolution.


Anyone know why this happens?


PROBLEM 2


Anthem suggested I upgrade to the latest firmware - 1.21b. And they also suggested I use the iogear USB to Serial adapter cable.


I did - and part way through the upgrade - I got a message saying there was a failure and it ended with the message "failed to exit debug mode".


Now I cannot even turn on the processor :-(.


Any suggestions or thoughts would be helpful.


I also - of course - have an email into Anthem on this.


----------



## PooperScooper

Don't email, call them, you get better results. Worst comes to worst you may have to open unit and access some sort of hardware reset "switch". Someone else here had the same type of issue and this is what they instructed to do or maybe your dealer will do it. Or, it's possible the download failed because of some issue with the D2.


larry


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkass25* /forum/post/12382293
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem Statement D2 with v 1.12s and have 2 problems with it.
> 
> PROBLEM 1
> 
> 
> When viewing all sources - things go fine initially, but all of a sudden and for no reason i would sporadically lose the video connection. This happens regardless of the source I use or the input (hdmi / component) to the Anthem or output (component / hdmi) from the Anthem. Mid way through the viewing, the screen would suddenly go blank (HDMI Out) or a blue striped screen will appear (component out) and the Anthem will state that the input is 540i (when it was really 1080i or 1080p) or some off the wall resolution.
> 
> 
> Anyone know why this happens?
> 
> 
> PROBLEM 2
> 
> 
> Anthem suggested I upgrade to the latest firmware - 1.21b. And they also suggested I use the iogear USB to Serial adapter cable.
> 
> 
> I did - and part way through the upgrade - I got a message saying there was a failure and it ended with the message "failed to exit debug mode".
> 
> 
> Now I cannot even turn on the processor :-(.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions or thoughts would be helpful.
> 
> 
> I also - of course - have an email into Anthem on this.




I had what sounds like similar issues(HDMI handshake). After updating BDP-S301 firmware to 3.2, and updating D2 firmware to 1.21d, two weeks ago, HDMI issues disappeared.


My setup:

Sony BDP-S301 via HDMI to D2

Toshiba A3 via HDMI to D2

Oppo 970 via HDMI to D2

Scientific-Atlanta 8300HD via HDMI/SPDIF to D2 (some HDMI handshake issues remain, but only when using DVR and is same as it always has been.

D2 HDMI out to Sony KDL-52XBR2 HDMI in


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/12384250
> 
> 
> Scientific-Atlanta 8300HD via HDMI/SPDIF to D2 (some HDMI handshake issues remain, but only when using DVR and is same as it always has been.



Why do you use both HDMI and SPDIF for the SA PVR? I have the same setup and only use HDMI for audio. What does the SPDIF give you that HDMI doesn't?


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12385554
> 
> 
> Why do you use both HDMI and SPDIF for the SA PVR? I have the same setup and only use HDMI for audio. What does the SPDIF give you that HDMI doesn't?



Perhaps I have something setup incorrectly(SA or D2), because I do not have any audio over the SA HDMI. Please let me know your setup process and I will check it here.


I thought this must be the way the SA needs to be connected and lazily did not investigate further......I hope I'm wrong or have a defective SA unit.


----------



## obie_fl

Audio over HDMI works on my SA 8300HD. Does your provider use Passport or SARA software? Mine uses Passport and I have to admit it is the most problematic of all my sources but usually doing a reboot of the box clears any lingering issues. Look out though drhankz will be here shortly a telling you to use component and S/PDIF.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/12387835
> 
> 
> Look out though drhankz will be here shortly a telling you to use component and S/PDIF.



And he would be right


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkass25* /forum/post/12382293
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem Statement D2 with v 1.12s and have 2 problems with it.
> 
> 
> I have it connected the following way:
> 
> 
> - Sony BDP S300 HDMI to Anthem
> 
> - motorola cable box DVI to HDMI cable to Anthem
> 
> - Xbox 360 component cable to Anthem
> 
> 
> HDMI out from Anthem to Pioneer Elite PRO-FHD1
> 
> Component out from Anthem to Pioneer
> 
> 
> PROBLEM 1
> 
> 
> When viewing all sources - things go fine initially, but all of a sudden and for no reason i would sporadically lose the video connection. This happens regardless of the source I use or the input (hdmi / component) to the Anthem or output (component / hdmi) from the Anthem. Mid way through the viewing, the screen would suddenly go blank (HDMI Out) or a blue striped screen will appear (component out) and the Anthem will state that the input is 540i (when it was really 1080i or 1080p) or some off the wall resolution.
> 
> 
> Anyone know why this happens?
> 
> 
> PROBLEM 2
> 
> 
> Anthem suggested I upgrade to the latest firmware - 1.21b. And they also suggested I use the iogear USB to Serial adapter cable.
> 
> 
> I did - and part way through the upgrade - I got a message saying there was a failure and it ended with the message "failed to exit debug mode".
> 
> 
> Now I cannot even turn on the processor :-(.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions or thoughts would be helpful.
> 
> 
> I also - of course - have an email into Anthem on this.




Welcome to the D2 fails to exit debug mode club.


The same suggestion from Anthem made my unit a "brick"

Bad thing is I am paying because Anthem does not warranty 2nd owners.

They have it in NY now for repair.


----------



## mkass25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/12388869
> 
> 
> Welcome to the D2 fails to exit debug mode club.
> 
> 
> The same suggestion from Anthem made my unit a "brick"
> 
> Bad thing is I am paying because Anthem does not warranty 2nd owners.
> 
> They have it in NY now for repair.



I feel your pain. How much are they charging and how long will it take to get it back?


They told me to try from a different PC before returning it ..... did you give that a shot?


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkass25* /forum/post/12389379
> 
> 
> I feel your pain. How much are they charging and how long will it take to get it back?
> 
> 
> They told me to try from a different PC before returning it ..... did you give that a shot?



I have had numerous issues with trying to update firmware using USB to serial adaptors, tried everyone from Keyspan to Iogear. I finally bought a cheap used laptop with an actual 9 pin serial port...like magic, all my updates work without fail now.

/\\/\\


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/12387354
> 
> 
> Perhaps I have something setup incorrectly(SA or D2), because I do not have any audio over the SA HDMI. Please let me know your setup process and I will check it here.
> 
> 
> I thought this must be the way the SA needs to be connected and lazily did not investigate further......I hope I'm wrong or have a defective SA unit.



You need to do two things. In the Anthem, in the source configuration, select your TV source and where it lists Audio in, select HDMI. In your Cable Box, go into the settings (hit the settings button twice) for advanced setting and select Audio Out as HDMI.


Having said all of that, I might just try your setup, or the component/SPDIF combination as the handshake problem is annoying. Often when I change from an HD channel to an SD one, I lose either my audio or my picture.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12389738
> 
> 
> Having said all of that, I might just try your setup, or the component/SPDIF combination as the handshake problem is annoying. Often when I change from an HD channel to an SD one, I lose either my audio or my picture.



A lot of us with HD DVRs DO NOT USE HDMI at all.


Therefore no handshake problems


----------



## learflyer

All: I've been lurking on this site for close to a year and finally pulled the pin today on an order for a D2 with an A2 amp for my surrounds. I feel like I already know several of the regulars on this forum and look forward to trading tips on setups - although I expect that I'll be taking more than giving for the first few months. My sales rep tells me I'll have everything by mid December. Sure hope he's right cuz I intend to spend a lot of time over the Christmas/New Year's break to set things up.


Anyway, just a warning to standby for a bunch of questiions from another newbie that have surely been asked and answered previously (I know about the list on page 1 of this forum, and have read many of the pages but there are 320+ pages here so will no doubt repeat a few questions).



Here's a list of my current equipment and upgrade plans:


Receiver:


Marantz SR-18EX as Pre/Pro and surround amps (being replaced by D2 and A2)


Speakers:


Fronts L/R - Totem Acoustics Forests

Center - Totem Model 1 Signature Center

Rears - Totem Lynx


Amplification - Bryston PowerPac 300's on Front L/R/C, (spectacular amps BTW)


DVD/CD/SACD - Sony 9000 ES

DVD/CD/DVD-Audio Pioneer Elite DV-46AV


Scientific Atlantic 8300HD PVR


Hitatchi HDPJ52 (to be upgraded soon)


Stewart Firehawk 92" screen


Arriving Dec 25th (hopefully) Sony PS3 - for bluray more than games.


Will let you know when things arrive and how I make out with the setup.


RW


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/12389648
> 
> 
> I have had numerous issues with trying to update firmware using USB to serial adaptors, tried everyone from Keyspan to Iogear. I finally bought a cheap used laptop with an actual 9 pin serial port...like magic, all my updates work without fail now.
> 
> /\\/\\



Bingo! I've posted the above ages ago after a firmware update totally bricked my Anthem. Had to do a manual clear of the eprom. Bought a cheap serial-serial cable at RatShack. Updates worked like a charm thereafter.

Although less than a year old my PC is actually a server form-factor so it still has a serial port on the MB.


----------



## rajman

You were right about the PLVZ2 and the HDMI. I was initially able to get it up and running from the AVM50 but after a couple of days all I get now is the blue screen of death if I attempt to use the HDMI connection so as a result I am only using the component outputs.







Another thing I noticed is that I was initially unable to do a rough calibration of the projector using the THX optimizer on various DVDs. When I was at the screen with the large white rectangle made up of smaller white rectangles of various white levels that was to be used to set the proper contrast level all I saw was a large white rectangle with absolutely no sub-rectangles. There was no level of the contrast or brightness controls on either the AVM picture menu or on the projector menu that would allow me to even see that there were any gradations of white level.







As a result, for example, when I watched "The Incredibles" scene 3 where Bob is stamping "DENIED" on the insurance form I was unable to read any of the other print on the sheet...It was one bright sheet of white only. I was able to fix it by going into the video ADC sub menu of the picture menu on the AVM50 and adjust the video input gain to an acceptable level that I had to determine by eye. Now when I view the same scene I can easily see the printing on the sheet.


On a side note, I read here that the AVM50 will not be able to use the upcoming room EQ software. I do, however, have the Audyssey Sound Equalizer and if the EQ (which appears to use a similar measurement algorithm) works as well as this, then you're in for a treat. It is without question the best single improvement that you can get for your sound system.


----------



## scottshd

Has Anyone Had Any Luck With A Usb To Serial Adapter And If So Which One And From Where? Hope I Don"t Have To Look For A Different Laptop Have To Be Ready For When Room Eq Is Out


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12389738
> 
> 
> You need to do two things. In the Anthem, in the source configuration, select your TV source and where it lists Audio in, select HDMI. In your Cable Box, go into the settings (hit the settings button twice) for advanced setting and select Audio Out as HDMI.
> 
> 
> Having said all of that, I might just try your setup, or the component/SPDIF combination as the handshake problem is annoying. Often when I change from an HD channel to an SD one, I lose either my audio or my picture.



I confirmed proper setups needed for SA HDMI audio output, and proper D2 HDMI audio input, but no sound. Going back to SA Dolby Digital Coax output and D2 Digital Coax input nets sound.


Next troubleshooting steps will be for HDMI cable itself, SA HDMI output issue, D2 HDMI input issue. Let's see now ...................


----------



## RIppolito

Monoprice seems to be a good recommendation for HDMI cables from many people around the forum. They sell 24 or 28 AWG wire, both of which, I'm sure, work.


Anyone have a preference?


Ron


----------



## rajman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/12392781
> 
> 
> Monoprice seems to be a good recommendation for HDMI cables from many people around the forum. They sell 24 or 28 AWG wire, both of which, I'm sure, work.
> 
> 
> Anyone have a preference?
> 
> 
> Ron



It all depends on your distance. 24 AWG would be stiffer but you could probably run it over 50ft and still get a good signal. Blue Jeans cable has some very informative articles on HDMI cables that would be worth a read.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/12392781
> 
> 
> Monoprice seems to be a good recommendation for HDMI cables from many people around the forum. They sell 24 or 28 AWG wire, both of which, I'm sure, work.
> 
> 
> Anyone have a preference?
> 
> 
> Ron



I'm a fan of Blue Jeans cables as well. I've got a 50 foot HDMI cable from them that is working great, it's the BJC Series-2. Blue Jeans now has HDMI cables that are one step better.


----------



## cargen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/12389648
> 
> 
> I have had numerous issues with trying to update firmware using USB to serial adaptors, tried everyone from Keyspan to Iogear. I finally bought a cheap used laptop with an actual 9 pin serial port...like magic, all my updates work without fail now.
> 
> /\\/\\



Same here. I experimented with adapters but got numerous error messages. I'm a Mac user but I bought an old archaic PC laptop off eBay for less than $100 bucks just to do the upgrades on my Anthem D2 and Velodyne DD-15's. It is getting pretty hard to find any laptop with a 9 pin serial port. I'm hoping Anthem upgrades the port to USB or some such in the D3.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/12392971
> 
> 
> I'm a fan of Blue Jeans cables as well. I've got a 50 foot HDMI cable from them that is working great, it's the BJC Series-2. Blue Jeans now has HDMI cables that are one step better.



I have a 25foot length of the "better" Blue Jeans cable. Let me just say it is like a snake. It is very nicely constructed but I'm not sure I'd recommend it because it has so much "memory" that it could almost pull itself out of the socket!


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/12390915
> 
> 
> Has Anyone Had Any Luck With A Usb To Serial Adapter And If So Which One And From Where? Hope I Don"t Have To Look For A Different Laptop Have To Be Ready For When Room Eq Is Out



Bought one from Radio Shack (Source by Circuit City) and it works fine.


----------



## The Bogg

I hooked up my oppo 980 to my new Black Pearl...great picture, works fine etc...


Hooked up the Oppo to the newly upgraded D1-HD and out to the Black Pearl. No picture...initially. Went downstairs to get an svideo cable thinking that I might have to change a setting in the menu or something. Just as I was plugging in the svideo cable (I know, I should've turned the power off first) it flashed something about hdcp and then I had picture from the hdmi. I think it was just coincidence, but it was a long wait for the first picture. Just one brief flicker intially with Toy Story after a few seconds but no obvious glitches since then. The Black Pearl is so quiet! I didn't find the Anthem to run all that hot (like previous reports), so the 9351 chip is cooler I guess. There was more heat from the power supply side than over the video board.


I haven't calibrated or anything but based on the "first impression" I'm quite pleased with the Anthem.


I'm going to get those monoprice hdmi dongles before that python-cable from Blue Jeans rips out the hdmi port!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/12394392
> 
> 
> I'm going to get those monoprice hdmi dongles before that python-cable from Blue Jeans rips out the hdmi port!



HDMI connectors on ANY product are not made

for supporting any HDMI cable. Many people

have screwed up their HDMI ports by not

understanding how fragile the connector is










I USE *these HDMI cables* because they have a locking

mechanism and stress relief built-in to the cable and

connector










I also use the MonoPrice Dongles for short cable runs.


----------



## scottshd

hey bogg was the adapter from radio shack an adapter cable? that is the only thing I can find in my local rs they wanted like 38.00 or so and it was only six feet didn"t want to buy it if it won"t work. would you know the part number of yours?


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Does anyone have the MX-850 Universal remote programmed with the D2 commands? I'd love to have a copy of the file if possible.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12400968
> 
> 
> Does anyone have the MX-850 Universal remote programmed with the D2 commands? I'd love to have a copy of the file if possible.




Rob,


When you going to have the gang over? Get Sanjay to work on the surround, ray on the BFD, and John on the display. I will take your new toy out for a drive.


Michael


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/12400154
> 
> 
> hey bogg was the adapter from radio shack an adapter cable? that is the only thing I can find in my local rs they wanted like 38.00 or so and it was only six feet didn"t want to buy it if it won"t work. would you know the part number of yours?



It's a Nexxtech usb to serial, model number 2613297. It's about 2 feet long, and I think it was around 20 bucks or so.


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12400968
> 
> 
> Does anyone have the MX-850 Universal remote programmed with the D2 commands? I'd love to have a copy of the file if possible.



Yes, I have an MX-850, but I have a AVM50. Good enough?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/12401364
> 
> 
> Yes, I have an MX-850, but I have a AVM50. Good enough?



I don't know.


Are all the commands on the remote the same?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12401161
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 
> When you going to have the gang over? Get Sanjay to work on the surround, ray on the BFD, and John on the display. I will take your new toy out for a drive.
> 
> 
> Michael



Let's just say sometime in 2008! I was hoping to have had a meet by now, but it wasn't in the cards. It will happen eventually though.


As far as my new toy, I have no idea what you are talking about!


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/12390915
> 
> 
> Has Anyone Had Any Luck With A Usb To Serial Adapter And If So Which One And From Where? Hope I Don"t Have To Look For A Different Laptop Have To Be Ready For When Room Eq Is Out



I went through 2 before I found one that worked with my HP notebook and the AVM-50.


Model: 26-183

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search


----------



## abc999

Will the room correction software be introduced at CES or earlier?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/12409474
> 
> 
> Will the room correction software be introduced at CES or earlier?



I have no idea....but I sure hope so!


----------



## scottshd

bogg and budeone thanks for the info the radio shack 26-183 is the same one I looked at in my local store. I"ll pick one up and hope it works for me also . my closest cc is 130 miles away


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12398077
> 
> 
> HDMI connectors on ANY product are not made
> 
> for supporting any HDMI cable. Many people
> 
> have screwed up their HDMI ports by not
> 
> understanding how fragile the connector is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I USE *these HDMI cables* because they have a locking
> 
> mechanism and stress relief built-in to the cable and
> 
> connector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use the MonoPrice Dongles for short cable runs.



Those locking cables look like a great idea. I had seen them before but forgot about them when I ordered the BJ cables.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/12411309
> 
> 
> Those locking cables look like a great idea. I had seen them before but forgot about them when I ordered the BJ cables.



They WORK nice also - good locking and stress relief


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12411397
> 
> 
> They WORK nice also - good locking and stress relief



Dr., some may not get your post quickly, but I can recognize a twisted mind from across the internet.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/12402733
> 
> 
> I went through 2 before I found one that worked with my HP notebook and the AVM-50.
> 
> 
> Model: 26-183
> 
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search



With all the problems with USB adapters, has anyone tried one of these ?


Startech.com CB2S650 16950 Serial PCMCIA CardBus Adapter (2-port)
http://www.startech.com/Product/Item...d=CB2S650&c=US


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12390031
> 
> 
> A lot of us with HD DVRs DO NOT USE HDMI at all.
> 
> 
> Therefore no handshake problems



I've tried component between my S3 TiVo and AVM50 for just this reason. Yes, the handshake issues go away, but I find the picture quality suffers, both losing a trace of detail and sharpness and appearing to have some chroma issues (e.g. the puff-ball on Stan's hat in South Park shows red-push and banding).


I've got both HDMI and component hooked up and switching back and forth between the two the HDMI is clearly superior.


Now, I know you can employ some detail enhancement and correct chroma error in the Anthem, but I'd really rather start with the best possible signal.


Any thoughts on what I might be doing wrong here? Are there any other S3 TiVo users who have achieved as good a result with component as with HDMI?


-Ravi


----------



## sbwright

I used the D2 codes from a configuration file for my AVM50 to program my Pronto so they must be the same.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12411397
> 
> 
> They WORK nice also - good locking and stress relief





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12398077
> 
> 
> HDMI connectors on ANY product are not made
> 
> for supporting any HDMI cable. Many people
> 
> have screwed up their HDMI ports by not
> 
> understanding how fragile the connector is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I USE *these HDMI cables* because they have a locking
> 
> mechanism and stress relief built-in to the cable and
> 
> connector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also use the MonoPrice Dongles for short cable runs.



Did you find a way to adapt these to the D2? My D1-HD (D2) does not appear to be compatible. I think about 1/2 of my components would allow for the ball to be installed (I wish all of them did because it looks like a VERY good idea). I currently use wire-ties to lock the cables down somewhere in the run.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/12411738
> 
> 
> Dr., some may not get your post quickly, but I can recognize a twisted mind from across the internet.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/12412998
> 
> 
> Did you find a way to adapt these to the D2? My D1-HD (D2) does not appear to be compatible. I think about 1/2 of my components would allow for the ball to be installed (I wish all of them did because it looks like a VERY good idea). I currently use wire-ties to lock the cables down somewhere in the run.



Would you believe a DRILL










I agree with you - all my other equipment has the

Screw under the HDMI connector. Anthem does not

have the screw. That only proves Anthem is NOT

OUT TO SCREW their customers [GRIN]!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/12412838
> 
> 
> I've tried component between my S3 TiVo and AVM50 for just this reason. Yes, the handshake issues go away, but I find the picture quality suffers, both losing a trace of detail and sharpness and appearing to have some chroma issues (e.g. the puff-ball on Stan's hat in South Park shows red-push and banding).
> 
> 
> -Ravi



I use SONY DVRs (5 of them).


I have two of them hooked to my D2 - originally

via HDMI. Before I switched to Component. I did

a freeze fame-by-frame comparison with one hooked

up via component and one hooked up via HDMI.


On a 156" - I could not see any difference.


One thing that might be different is I have my SONY

DVRs set to output 1080i all the time. I don't use

native 480i from the DVR. I use the Anthem to convert

from 1080i to 1080p.


I also DO NOT WATCH any 480i TV - only HD Channels.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12413225
> 
> 
> Would you believe a DRILL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with you - all my other equipment has the
> 
> Screw under the HDMI connector. Anthem does not
> 
> have the screw. That only proves Anthem is NOT
> 
> OUT TO SCREW their customers [GRIN]!



You drill into the rear panel ??


Please Explain


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/12417153
> 
> 
> You drill into the rear panel ??
> 
> 
> Please Explain



I was only KIDDING


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12417965
> 
> 
> I was only KIDDING



At least until the warranty is expired


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/12412838
> 
> 
> I've tried component between my S3 TiVo and AVM50 for just this reason. Yes, the handshake issues go away, but I find the picture quality suffers, both losing a trace of detail and sharpness and appearing to have some chroma issues (e.g. the puff-ball on Stan's hat in South Park shows red-push and banding).
> 
> 
> I've got both HDMI and component hooked up and switching back and forth between the two the HDMI is clearly superior.
> 
> 
> Now, I know you can employ some detail enhancement and correct chroma error in the Anthem, but I'd really rather start with the best possible signal.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on what I might be doing wrong here? Are there any other S3 TiVo users who have achieved as good a result with component as with HDMI?
> 
> 
> -Ravi



Hmm, I have a D2 and a TivoHD (very similar to the S3 hardware). I just switched it to component and optical from HDMI to get rid of the switching artifacts.


I can't really notice ANY loss in clarity. The TivoHD is a pretty decent picture, and I'm getting my signal through OTA (roof-mounted antenna). However, when I do an A/B comparison between the TivoHD and it's tuner and my Samsung 260F tuner, the Samsung is sharper and clearer. Thus, anything I want in ultimate clarity, I will watch LIVE on the Samsung.


All I can say is try another set of component cables to see if that makes a difference. You do need decent component cables (I assume you have them already, but if not...)


Maybe there IS a hardware difference between the older S3 and the new TivoHD insofar as the component circuitry is concerned.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/12380243
> 
> 
> Correct leave it at DVD-A if you want the best audio, sometimes there is video on the DVD-V layer not on the DVD-A layer so you may still want to check it out.
> 
> 
> Correct DTS will only come on if you are playing the video layer and have the DTS track selected on the disk. The DVD-A MLP audio is unpacked in the player and sent out as PCM much like Dolby TrueHD on HD DVD and Blu-ray.
> 
> 
> There is a button on the remote (forget label) that switches HDMI resolution, the disk has to be stopped. For normal DVD watching you would still want 480i so the Anthem does the upscaling. The only time you need to increase it is for hi resolution audio such has DVD-A and SACD.



Obie: I don't believe anyone ever responded to this: Under the Audio Setup Page, there is an option for LPCM rate. Mine is set at 48 k. Should I change this sampling rate to 92 k to equal that of the disk I am playing?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12418720
> 
> 
> Obie: I don't believe anyone ever responded to this: Under the Audio Setup Page, there is an option for LPCM rate. Mine is set at 48 k. Should I change this sampling rate to 92 k to equal that of the disk I am playing?



I'm not Obie, but I also have the player in question. You don't need to do anything. That LPCM rate setting only comes into play under certain circumstances that I can't recall right now (I'm not at home) but don't apply to the modes in which ANYONE here with a D2/AVM50 uses the player. ESPECIALLY using HDMI... I seem to remember that the rate has no bearing on anything in typical HDMI usage.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/12419024
> 
> 
> I'm not Obie, but I also have the player in question. You don't need to do anything. That LPCM rate setting only comes into play under certain circumstances that I can't recall right now (I'm not at home) but don't apply to the modes in which ANYONE here with a D2/AVM50 uses the player. ESPECIALLY using HDMI... I seem to remember that the rate has no bearing on anything in typical HDMI usage.



Thanks, I'm not sure if you saw my previous posts on this, but just to confirm, I am referring to the LPCM rate on an Oppo 970 HD. Does your response apply to this unit?


----------



## obie_fl

I thought this was addressed a couple of times earlier bluemark... I believe those settings only apply to S/PDIF and can not even be changed if HDMI is active. Am I thinking of the wrong thing?


----------



## barhoram

Hi.


Could someone please email me the latest firmware version. I had anthem emial it to my work address...but a filter deleted the .exe file. I took the day off to work around my theater....and this was the first thing I was going to do. I created a yahoo address that should be fine:

[email protected] 


Also, is there a later version of the settings editor? I want to save my settings before updating the firmware. The version on anthem's site, can't find my D2. The Live video settings editor that I downloaded can find it, though...


Thanks - Andrew


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12421256
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'm not sure if you saw my previous posts on this, but just to confirm, I am referring to the LPCM rate on an Oppo 970 HD. Does your response apply to this unit?



Yes.


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12425461
> 
> 
> Hi.
> 
> 
> Could someone please email me the latest firmware version. I had anthem emial it to my work address...but a filter deleted the .exe file. I took the day off to work around my theater....and this was the first thing I was going to do. I created a yahoo address that should be fine:
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> Also, is there a later version of the settings editor? I want to save my settings before updating the firmware. The version on anthem's site, can't find my D2. The Live video settings editor that I downloaded can find it, though...
> 
> 
> Thanks - Andrew



According to Amrit at Anthem, there is not a current version of the settings editor available that is compatible with rev 1.21d


----------



## barhoram

Just upgraded firmware to the latest. Anyone else seeing this issue....about 1/2 the time I enter setup via the OSD, instead of the blue screen and large white text, I get black and white, and a somwhat distorted picture for the menu (like bad analog tv reception with lots of ghosting). I had this issue before upgrading, and figured that since I was with the original firmware, the upgrade would probably take care of this issue. It almost seems if I hold the setup button too long on the remote, i get the distoreted screen. Not sure if anyone else is seeing it?


----------



## HTfanatic4life

Picked up a Toshiba HD-A3 last night, and for fun, decided to connect it to my D2 via HDMI.


My display is 1080i connected to the D2 via component. Will this config (HDMI from source, component to display) even work? My D2 is hand shaking with the A3, no problem, I can change its output resolution and the D2's display shows the change accordingly, however, my display shows a black screen with no video. I thought it might work since I'm not trying to output 1080p via component and only 1080i, but alas, no joy thus far.


Also, I can't seem to get the scaler video menu up when I have the HD-A3 video input selected. I can on my regular 480i connected players input, just not the new one.


Any ideas?


Worse case I'll go pick up another component cable...


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12433670
> 
> 
> Just upgraded firmware to the latest. Anyone else seeing this issue....about 1/2 the time I enter setup via the OSD, instead of the blue screen and large white text, I get black and white, and a somwhat distorted picture for the menu (like bad analog tv reception with lots of ghosting). I had this issue before upgrading, and figured that since I was with the original firmware, the upgrade would probably take care of this issue. It almost seems if I hold the setup button too long on the remote, i get the distoreted screen. Not sure if anyone else is seeing it?



There are known issues with the s-video character generator board (its clock). This is what generates the setup menu (OSD) on the display. My D2 doesn't display any text and stays blue. When I talked to Nick he asked me what color screen was when it happened. Maybe your issue is different. Call support.


larry


----------



## barhoram

larry,


Thanks. Are you just living with the lack of OSD, or did they have some sort of fix? Now that It's set up, I rarely go through the OSD....so it's not that big of a deal..and it only happens some of the time.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTfanatic4life* /forum/post/12433951
> 
> 
> Picked up a Toshiba HD-A3 last night, and for fun, decided to connect it to my D2 via HDMI.
> 
> 
> My display is 1080i connected to the D2 via component. Will this config (HDMI from source, component to display) even work? My D2 is hand shaking with the A3, no problem, I can change its output resolution and the D2's display shows the change accordingly, however, my display shows a black screen with no video. I thought it might work since I'm not trying to output 1080p via component and only 1080i, but alas, no joy thus far.
> 
> 
> Also, I can't seem to get the scaler video menu up when I have the HD-A3 video input selected. I can on my regular 480i connected players input, just not the new one.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Worse case I'll go pick up another component cable...



You're source is HDCP protected and expecting an HDCP (over HDMI/DVI) display at the other end. Component is not an HDCP supported connection. Try setting the "HDMI Repeater" setting to No under the source setup. This will trick your HD-DVD player into thinking that the D2 is a display and not a Repeater (receiver).


Or go Component from your HD-DVD player.


----------



## HTfanatic4life

Thanks, gblack.


I've tried the no repeat option and it didn't work either. I'll pick up a cheap component cable to tide me over until I have a new display!


----------



## gblack

There was a post earlier from lalarsons about hooking up an SA HD DVR with video over HDMI and audio over digital out (with the SA DVR audio out set to "Dolby Digital" and not "HDMI" and the D1-HD configured to have audio from the digital audio in and not HDMI).


Well I was having all sorts of hand shake problems with my SA DVR and my D1-HD when hooked up purely with HDMI. Switching from HD to SD would cause audio to drop. Switch from SD to HD would cause full connection loss (blue screen only), etc.


I tried the "lalarsons" method (which I don't think lalarsons know's I've named after him yet!







), and since doing that (3 days now) I haven't had one hand shake problem with my DVR. Audio and video are great. Still get the second or two pause when switch resoution, but I don't have the same failed connections. So far this has been very reliable.










Anyone else try this?


It might imply a bug in either the SA's or D2's HDCP handling that isn't there when no audio is coming from HDMI.


I also tried this with my AppleTV, but no joy there. Still can't get it to sync with my D1-HD over HDMI.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12434909
> 
> 
> larry,
> 
> 
> Thanks. Are you just living with the lack of OSD, or did they have some sort of fix? Now that It's set up, I rarely go through the OSD....so it's not that big of a deal..and it only happens some of the time.



I get nothing on my plasma when I enter setup mode. Since all my settings (speakers, inputs, etc) are all done it's just a minor annoyance to have to use the LEDs. But, I will be getting the unit replaced. Once I start using the new EQ stuff I'm sure a screen display will come in handy.










larry


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12433670
> 
> 
> Just upgraded firmware to the latest. Anyone else seeing this issue....about 1/2 the time I enter setup via the OSD, instead of the blue screen and large white text, I get black and white, and a somwhat distorted picture for the menu (like bad analog tv reception with lots of ghosting). I had this issue before upgrading, and figured that since I was with the original firmware, the upgrade would probably take care of this issue. It almost seems if I hold the setup button too long on the remote, i get the distoreted screen. Not sure if anyone else is seeing it?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12434228
> 
> 
> There are known issues with the s-video character generator board (its clock). This is what generates the setup menu (OSD) on the display. My D2 doesn't display any text and stays blue. When I talked to Nick he asked me what color screen was when it happened. Maybe your issue is different. Call support.
> 
> 
> larry



These are the first two posts I have seen that show others are having this problem as well.


I posted about my unit doing the same thing shortly after receiving my D2. It still does it too, but I am living with it for now. I agree with barhoram, it happens about 50% of the time. In fact, it did it last night. Definitely can be annoying when you are trying to change some settings or do a calibration.










Larry, when I spoke to Nick about this issue several months ago, my complaint was the first that they had. Apparently they have had more, if they are now acknowledging this as a "known issue"?


----------



## ravichopra

I'm using an AVM50 to send 1080p out to a plasma on my main system. I'm interested in using Zone 2 to send 1080i out to a second TV (which can only take 1080i and 480i/p) via component.


To me, the it would make the most sense to tie video out configs to specific zones. I'm already using my different source settings quite nicely to have a number of preset different zoom and detail enhancement settings I can select from on the fly. I'd love to be able to pick my source, already optimally set, and have it sent out to the appropriate output setting for whichever zone I've selected.


Instead, it looks like the out configs are tied to the sources exclusively, so I'd have to duplicate all of my source settings for each zone (and essentially lose half my pre-set options).


It also looks like the only HD video out is the second set of component outs.


Am I correct here, or have I missed something that will make my life easier?


-Ravi


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12438816
> 
> 
> These are the first two posts I have seen that show others are having this problem as well.
> 
> 
> I posted about my unit doing the same thing shortly after receiving my D2. It still does it too, but I am living with it for now. I agree with barhoram, it happens about 50% of the time. In fact, it did it last night. Definitely can be annoying when you are trying to change some settings or do a calibration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larry, when I spoke to Nick about this issue several months ago, my complaint was the first that they had. Apparently they have had more, if they are now acknowledging this as a "known issue"?



They've had problems with the clock with the s-video circuitry. S-video is used to generate the OSD characters. The fix is to replace the top video board in the unit. The "status" display and Anthem logo are generated via the main video engine - I can still see that/them. The problem could be the same, s-video is dead on mine and dying on yours.







One sure way to tell is to connect an s-video output from a source and see if it works.


larry


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I'll have to try that Larry (if I can find an S video source).


----------



## PooperScooper

I just went down and plugged in my Oppo via S-video. To my surprise the video worked great at first but still no OSD when entering setup - the DVD video kept playing. And when I would exit setup I lost video until I hit "enter" (status) or went back into setup!







However, with Main OS: set to HD only, I get no video displayed via s-video from the Oppo unless in setup mode. And after about 5 minutes of playing around the s-video from the player deteriorated - almost black and white and bands of noise. Bottom line: something is broken.










larry


----------



## stanger89

There any particular reason my questions have been completely ignored? Are they too dumb? I've looked through the links in the first post but they don't really help, they're all two specific to special conditions and I'm trying to fill in the gaps between what the AVM50 manual has and how the thing actually works. So here are some different questions:


1) What do the 16:9 and 4:3 crops actually do? Do they actually crop the image (and if so how?) or do they just tell the VXP to interpret the input as 16:9 or 4:3?

2) What settings are available for custom Custom Crop (I can't believe the manual doesn't say)?

3) Can the scaler correct improperly flagged/stretched content, eg the 4:3 stretched to 16:9 so many HD networks are fond of?


----------



## The Bogg

I was disappointed to learn that the latest Panasonic Blu-ray player won't internally decode the advanced audio codecs. Just read a review of the Samsung BDP5000 and the LG 200 dual players, and neither of them seem to either (at least they do some of them, but not DTS HD Master). The Samsung "might" be firmware upgradeable to do it though. Bob P had mentioned that the next gen players will decode the advanced codecs internally, hope these players weren't what he was referring to! I'll be ready to buy in about a month's time when the room is done, hopefully there will be suitable players then.


I was amazed at the specs of the new integra ssp. It has balanced connectors, decodes all the advanced codecs via hdmi 1.3, and costs less than what it cost me just to upgrade from D1 to D2 status! Still love my Anthem though!


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/12442349
> 
> 
> There any particular reason my questions have been completely ignored? Are they too dumb? I've looked through the links in the first post but they don't really help, they're all two specific to special conditions and I'm trying to fill in the gaps between what the AVM50 manual has and how the thing actually works. So here are some different questions:
> 
> 
> 1) What do the 16:9 and 4:3 crops actually do? Do they actually crop the image (and if so how?) or do they just tell the VXP to interpret the input as 16:9 or 4:3?
> 
> 2) What settings are available for custom Custom Crop (I can't believe the manual doesn't say)?
> 
> 3) Can the scaler correct improperly flagged/stretched content, eg the 4:3 stretched to 16:9 so many HD networks are fond of?



You may not have got answers, possibly, because nobody uses cropping for SD DVDs (or maybe anything else). For SD DVDs I send 480i to the D2 and it sends 480p to my plasma. Depending on the DVD type (anamorphic or not) I use the appropriate viewing mode to preserve OAR.


larry


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12444106
> 
> 
> You may not have got answers, possibly, because nobody uses cropping for SD DVDs (or maybe anything else). For SD DVDs I send 480i to the D2 and it sends 480p to my plasma. Depending on the DVD type (anamorphic or not) I use the appropriate viewing mode to preserve OAR.
> 
> 
> larry



Thanks for the response, to be clear, I'm not talking about disturbing OAR or anything of the sort (I'm quite the staunch OAR advocate). What I'm having trouble with is understanding what everything does, the manual barely touches on any of the controls and completely ignores a good number of them.


For example, I have no idea what settings "the appropriate viewing mode" would be for a 4:3 DVD (or a 16:9 one). Is it simply (assuming auto doesn't work) picking 4:3 from the Crop menu? In which case 4:3 doesn't actually crop anything, it just tells the VXP that the input is 4:3 aspect ratio so it's scaled appropriately to the output.


Likewise for 16:9 content, do you simply pick the 16:9 "crop"?


What about 4:3 in 16:9 frame? Do you pick 4:3 crop, or do you have to use a custom crop to trim the pillars? What happens if you pick 4:3 crop on 4:3 in 16:9 frame content, are the pillars cropped or is the picture squished?


That's what I find so frustrating, it's these basic things that nobody seems to touch on. Not that I really blame anyone, if you've got an AVM50 or D2 I'm sure it's perfectly obvious what each of these controls does, but it's near impossible for someone without either of the above to figure it out, especially if the "Crop Input" menu selections don't really crop things (if they just specify the input AR).


And how does the Custom Crop menu work? If you perform a custom crop, how does the VXP handle the aspect ratio of the cropped image?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/12444904
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response, to be clear, I'm not talking about disturbing OAR or anything of the sort (I'm quite the staunch OAR advocate). What I'm having trouble with is understanding what everything does, the manual barely touches on any of the controls and completely ignores a good number of them.
> 
> 
> For example, I have no idea what settings "the appropriate viewing mode" would be for a 4:3 DVD (or a 16:9 one). Is it simply (assuming auto doesn't work) picking 4:3 from the Crop menu? In which case 4:3 doesn't actually crop anything, it just tells the VXP that the input is 4:3 aspect ratio so it's scaled appropriately to the output.
> 
> 
> Likewise for 16:9 content, do you simply pick the 16:9 "crop"?
> 
> 
> What about 4:3 in 16:9 frame? Do you pick 4:3 crop, or do you have to use a custom crop to trim the pillars? What happens if you pick 4:3 crop on 4:3 in 16:9 frame content, are the pillars cropped or is the picture squished?
> 
> 
> That's what I find so frustrating, it's these basic things that nobody seems to touch on. Not that I really blame anyone, if you've got an AVM50 or D2 I'm sure it's perfectly obvious what each of these controls does, but it's near impossible for someone without either of the above to figure it out, especially if the "Crop Input" menu selections don't really crop things (if they just specify the input AR).
> 
> 
> And how does the Custom Crop menu work? If you perform a custom crop, how does the VXP handle the aspect ratio of the cropped image?



Actually, a lot of this stuff HAS been discussed at one time or another. I believe Bob Pariseau posted the clearest explanations of each of these - and why some of them you don't even need to touch.


(If you are looking for explanations of each item, I'm not the person. Somewhere in all of these pages just about every setting has been covered.)


To answer your DVD question - you want to set the Crop to 4:3 and the Scale out to Anamorphic. If your DVD is anamorphic, then it will be properly expanded to a 16:9 ratio. If it is 4:3/non-anamorphic, then it will be displayed that way. Strictly speaking, there is no such thing as a 16:9 DVD - it only becomes 16:9 after decoding IF it was encoded as anamorphic.


For HDTV, which actually DOES arrive in a 16:9 package, you want to set it thus - Crop to HDMI Autodetect and No Scaling.


I don't have a BD or HD-DVD, but I would imagine it would be the same as HDTV.


Custom Crop is primarily for specific problematic display devices. I would think you wouldn't need it.


As far as 4:3 in a 16:9 frame, I have no idea what you're referring to. If you mean a DVD of (for example) a 30s/40s movie - that's merely a 4:3 aspect ratio movie. Crop = 4:3 and Scale = Anamorphic. The D2 will take care of detection and proper display. Throw in a recent 16:9 release and the D2 has your back. No problems.


You could do worse than searching for all Bob Pariseau's posts in this thread and reading through any longer than 10 lines. He's really good at explaining the fundamental concepts we all need to know to use this product. Maybe that's why you haven't got answers - possibly everyone thinks Bob would explain it better anyway, so why bother?


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/12446334
> 
> 
> Actually, a lot of this stuff HAS been discussed at one time or another. I believe Bob Pariseau posted the clearest explanations of each of these - and why some of them you don't even need to touch.
> 
> 
> (If you are looking for explanations of each item, I'm not the person. Somewhere in all of these pages just about every setting has been covered.)



Somewhere in 340 pages is easier said than done, especially with a generic term like "crop" or "aspect ratio".


[QUTOE]To answer your DVD question - you want to set the Crop to 4:3 and the Scale out to Anamorphic. If your DVD is anamorphic, then it will be properly expanded to a 16:9 ratio. If it is 4:3/non-anamorphic, then it will be displayed that way.[/quote]


Those can't both be right. I'm lost. My understanding of Anamorphic out is that whatever's left after the crop is stretched to file the output area. So with Crop 4:3 and Scale out Anamorphic result in everything being stretched to fill the screen?


My real question is what happens if you pick Crop 4:3 (or 16:9) and set Output to Letter/Pillarbox?


I still can't tell if crop actually crops or if it just changes the interpretation of the input.



> Quote:
> Strictly speaking, there is no such thing as a 16:9 DVD - it only becomes 16:9 after decoding IF it was encoded as anamorphic.



Strictly speaking DVDs have a Pixel Aspect Ratio of 1.5:1 but that represents either 4:3 or 16:9 image.



> Quote:
> For HDTV, which actually DOES arrive in a 16:9 package, you want to set it thus - Crop to HDMI Autodetect and No Scaling.



Wouldn't no scaling mean that only content with the same resolution as my display would fit? In my case wouldn't 1080i content run past the edges of my 720p display?



> Quote:
> I don't have a BD or HD-DVD, but I would imagine it would be the same as HDTV.
> 
> 
> Custom Crop is primarily for specific problematic display devices. I would think you wouldn't need it.



Actually I will.



> Quote:
> As far as 4:3 in a 16:9 frame, I have no idea what you're referring to.



For example upconverted SD channels, which are pillarboxed.



> Quote:
> If you mean a DVD of (for example) a 30s/40s movie - that's merely a 4:3 aspect ratio movie. Crop = 4:3 and Scale = Anamorphic.



Firstly, 4:3 on a DVD isn't what I'm talking about, second, wouldn't that stretch the 4:3 image to fill the screen?



> Quote:
> The D2 will take care of detection and proper display. Throw in a recent 16:9 release and the D2 has your back. No problems.



How, that's my biggest problem, half this thread seems to be handwaving "it works".



> Quote:
> You could do worse than searching for all Bob Pariseau's posts in this thread and reading through any longer than 10 lines. He's really good at explaining the fundamental concepts we all need to know to use this product. Maybe that's why you haven't got answers - possibly everyone thinks Bob would explain it better anyway, so why bother?



I've read through a number of his post, in their entirety, but all of the ones I've read are dealing with very specific questions that don't answer any of my questions. I still haven't found (for example) if the Crop input 4:3 and 16:9 modes actually crop the image or if they just change the scaling.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/12444904
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response, to be clear, I'm not talking about disturbing OAR or anything of the sort (I'm quite the staunch OAR advocate). What I'm having trouble with is understanding what everything does, the manual barely touches on any of the controls and completely ignores a good number of them.
> 
> 
> For example, I have no idea what settings "the appropriate viewing mode" would be for a 4:3 DVD (or a 16:9 one). Is it simply (assuming auto doesn't work) picking 4:3 from the Crop menu? In which case 4:3 doesn't actually crop anything, it just tells the VXP that the input is 4:3 aspect ratio so it's scaled appropriately to the output.
> 
> 
> Likewise for 16:9 content, do you simply pick the 16:9 "crop"?
> 
> 
> What about 4:3 in 16:9 frame? Do you pick 4:3 crop, or do you have to use a custom crop to trim the pillars? What happens if you pick 4:3 crop on 4:3 in 16:9 frame content, are the pillars cropped or is the picture squished?
> 
> 
> That's what I find so frustrating, it's these basic things that nobody seems to touch on. Not that I really blame anyone, if you've got an AVM50 or D2 I'm sure it's perfectly obvious what each of these controls does, but it's near impossible for someone without either of the above to figure it out, especially if the "Crop Input" menu selections don't really crop things (if they just specify the input AR).
> 
> 
> And how does the Custom Crop menu work? If you perform a custom crop, how does the VXP handle the aspect ratio of the cropped image?



I would assume whatever is left "un-cropped" would be scaled and output at the set resolution. And, no, it's not perfectly clear to me what these controls do.







I haven't had a cause to play with them.


larry


----------



## stanger89

First, thanks again for the response, yes there are some of the answers I was looking for, but about every time I think I get it figured out, I find something that confuses me again.


Bob,


Maybe you can clarify some things...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11320893
> 
> 
> * Video Source Adjust / Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box is the appropriate setting to use for ALL movies IF the player sends the Aspect Ratio flags. If not, use this just for watching 4:3 movies so that the Anthem will generate the Pillar Box bars on either side and thus display the movie in the 4:3 ratio. [If the player sends the flags, then a 16:9 movie will get a 16:9 crop from the setting above, and thus the Letter/Pillar Box setting will not need to generate any bars to match that to the 16:9 shape of your display. So the result is the same as if you had selected Anamorphic.]



I'm still thoroughly confused about the usage of "crop" for the input settings, sometimes it seems like it's literal in that it actually removes part of the source image, sometimes it's not literal and seems like it just changes the handling of the input.


For example here you say a 16:9 "crop" tells the Anthem to interpret the input as 16:9 and scale it appropriately. However in another post you said that selecting 16:9 would remove the top/bottom bars of the image.


Second, am I correct is reading that setting output to Letter/Pillar box will squish the output horizontally the input is not 16:9 (ie if flagged wrong or 4:3 crop chosen)?


----------



## brewster201

He is the site with all the information on the Gennum 9351 video processor.
http://www.gennum.com/video/products/GF9351.htm 


Bruce


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/12447786
> 
> 
> First, thanks again for the response, yes there are some of the answers I was looking for, but about every time I think I get it figured out, I find something that confuses me again.
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Maybe you can clarify some things...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still thoroughly confused about the usage of "crop" for the input settings, sometimes it seems like it's literal in that it actually removes part of the source image, sometimes it's not literal and seems like it just changes the handling of the input.
> 
> 
> For example here you say a 16:9 "crop" tells the Anthem to interpret the input as 16:9 and scale it appropriately. However in another post you said that selecting 16:9 would remove the top/bottom bars of the image.
> 
> 
> Second, am I correct is reading that setting output to Letter/Pillar box will squish the output horizontally the input is not 16:9 (ie if flagged wrong or 4:3 crop chosen)?



Let's try this. What would want to do with cropping? Maybe some of use could try it and see if it will do what you want to do?


larry


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/12447082
> 
> 
> Somewhere in 340 pages is easier said than done, especially with a generic term like "crop" or "aspect ratio".



I didn't say it would be easy, did I?











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/12446334
> 
> 
> To answer your DVD question - you want to set the Crop to 4:3 and the Scale out to Anamorphic. If your DVD is anamorphic, then it will be properly expanded to a 16:9 ratio. If it is 4:3/non-anamorphic, then it will be displayed that way.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/12447082
> 
> 
> Those can't both be right. I'm lost. My understanding of Anamorphic out is that whatever's left after the crop is stretched to file the output area. So with Crop 4:3 and Scale out Anamorphic result in everything being stretched to fill the screen?



No it does not. But this is based on actual experience, not theory.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/12447082
> 
> 
> My real question is what happens if you pick Crop 4:3 (or 16:9) and set Output to Letter/Pillarbox?



I believe I tried that way at one point, and it did not properly switch between 4:3 and 16:9.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/12447082
> 
> 
> I still can't tell if crop actually crops or if it just changes the interpretation of the input.



I believe it crops BASED on the interpretation of the input.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/12447082
> 
> 
> Wouldn't no scaling mean that only content with the same resolution as my display would fit? In my case wouldn't 1080i content run past the edges of my 720p display?



No, because you set your OVERALL output resolution to the resolution of your output device. The Crop and Scaling settings can be source specific. The Output resolution is singular.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/12447082
> 
> 
> For example upconverted SD channels, which are pillarboxed.



This is why you use a separate setting for HDTV.


NOTE: One possibly important piece of information I didn't mention is that ALL my sources are set to deliver their signal to a widescreen (16:9) display at either 480i (DVD) or native 480i/720p/1080i (OTA tuner and DVR). This keeps the source device from imposing its own pillarbox on the signal. Then the D2 can do the right thing.


You had asked earlier if an SD program ever got stretched out incorrectly. For all my OTA channels, only one subchannel displays wrong. Apparently the broadcaster is embedding incorrect information/flags. Otherwise, I NEVER get pillarboxes where they shouldn't be OR 4:3 programming incorrectly stretched.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/12447082
> 
> 
> How, that's my biggest problem, half this thread seems to be handwaving "it works".



Well, this thread is oriented more to "what works" than "how it works." Most posters seem to be motivated not by theory, but by practice.


I can tell you that I've tried ALL KINDS of combinations of settings to arrive at my current D2 nirvana. When I dial things in, I write them down and move on. I suspect many here are just the same.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/12447082
> 
> 
> I've read through a number of his post, in their entirety, but all of the ones I've read are dealing with very specific questions that don't answer any of my questions. I still haven't found (for example) if the Crop input 4:3 and 16:9 modes actually crop the image or if they just change the scaling.



As I said earlier, I don't believe it's an either/or, but a combination. But there's only one person both knowledgable enough AND interested in explaining the "theory behind" here, and he is currently travelling. I'm sure he'll answer your questions with the level of detail you require when he's back posting here.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12448938
> 
> 
> Let's try this. What would want to do with cropping? Maybe some of use could try it and see if it will do what you want to do?
> 
> 
> larry



OK, the two absolute musts:


1) Squish 16:9 content into a "4:3" area (I'm confused if it can do this).

2) Crop/stretch scope content into a 16:9 area (I know it can do this).


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/12449320
> 
> 
> OK, the two absolute musts:
> 
> 
> 1) Squish 16:9 content into a "4:3" area (I'm confused if it can do this).
> 
> 2) Crop/stretch scope content into a 16:9 area (I know it can do this).



Ah, so I think (and from your sig) you're trying to use an anamorphic lens on a projector but not have a sled that moves the lens out of the way for non-scope content.


I don't have the answer for you, but I'm pretty sure that this would require a custom scale out setting and not a crop setting. Crop removes part of the picture before output, scale just distorts it. And it's the latter you'd want to do with a 16:9 image.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OK let's try and start with the basics. First it helps to know that the Anthem converts all video input it is going to process to 1920x1080p, so when you see numbers in the custom crop info, that's what they refer to.


Second, a lot of this material is covered in probably confusing detail in the posts linked off the first post of this thread -- see the "Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling section of those links.


So what is all this stuff?


Crop Input extracts a subset of the input video. The crop can never be bigger than the actual input frame in either dimension, but it can be smaller. The 4:3 and 16:9 crops are simply pre-defined crops. Imagine an input video frame that is the shape of a rectangle. Suppose it is a 4:3 frame from an SDTV channel. If you apply the 4:3 crop to it the crop just fits both horizontally and vertically. But if you apply the 16:9 crop to it the shape doesn't match. If you make the crop match the height of the image then the sides of the crop would be off the image left and right. As I said, you can't do that. Both dimensions of the crop have to fit WITHIN the pixels of the actual input frame.


So what to do? Well if you think about it, any given input frame is either going to be wider aspect ratio than the crop, narrower than the crop, or just right. In this case the 4:3 input frame is narrower than the 16:9 crop.


So instead of making the crop match the input in height, the Anthem makes it match in width. But wait! If it is going to match in width and still be a 16:9 crop that means the height must be made shorter. I.e., you have to discard some of the input image top and bottom.


It might help to draw a picture of a 4:3 rectangle and then put a 16:9 rectangle on it that just matches in width. See? The 16:9 crop is going to "crop out" a 16:9 wide subset of the 4:3 input image that just matches in width but discards some of the top and bottom of the 4:3 input image.


Why would you want to do this? Well suppose your SDTV channel was presenting a letter-boxed movie -- a 16:9 movie embedded in the 4:3 broadcast frame with black bars top and bottom to make up the difference in shape.


Applying a 16:9 crop to that input video extracts the 16:9 movie from the center of that 4:3 frame.


Now suppose you are watching an HDTV channel broadcasting at 1080i. It will be broadcasting a 16:9 frame. But sometimes what is shown in that broadcast is actually an SDTV program, scaled up to 1080i by the broadcast station and fleshed out with pillar box bars on the left and right to make up the 16:9 shape.


If you apply a 16:9 crop to that it just fits. The Anthem has no work to do. It will pass on to the scaler the incoming video just as broadcast -- i.e., a 4:3 image embedded in a 16:9 frame with pillar box bars on either side.


Suppose you want the Anthem to stretch that 4:3 image out to fill the screen left to right -- getting rid of the pillar box bars at the expense of distorting the image (circles now look like wide ovals). The problem is, the Anthem has no way of knowing which pixels are real image and which are the pillar box bars added by the studio.


But wait! You can tell the Anthem. Simply apply a 4:3 crop to that input.


Now if the 4:3 crop is as wide as the broadcast frame (including the embedded pillar box bar pixels which are part of the image the studio sends out -- remember the Anthem can't know which pixels are real and which are pillar bars) then the height of the crop must be too tall. Again you can never have a crop that is BIGGER than the input image in either dimension.


So instead the 4:3 crop is set to match the HEIGHT of the 16:9 frame. But that must mean that the width of the crop is narrower than the width of the input frame (draw a picture here, again, if you need to). Indeed! That's just what you want! A 4:3 crop applied to a 16:9 frame will extract the 4:3 subset from the middle of that frame -- which just happens to be the pixels that make up the embedded SDTV program content.


Finally, suppose you have an HDTV station broadcasting a 16:9 frame at 1080i, but at the moment what it is broadcasting is SDTV program content -- and that program content is an SDTV version of a letter boxed 16:9 movie.


What you will see is that the movie is surrounded by black on all 4 sides. The SDTV program content adds black bars top and bottom to pad the 16:9 movie to a 4:3 shape, and the HDTV broadcast station then pads that 4:3 shape with bars left and right to pad it out to a 16:9 shape again. The result is that the 16:9 movie "floats" in the middle of the larger 16:9 frame.


Well if you apply a 16:9 crop to that nothing will happen. The input frame is ALREADY 16:9. The Anthem doesn't know that a bunch of those pixels are just black bar pixels.


And if you apply a 4:3 crop to that what you will extract is the 4:3 subset of the 16:9 input frame (remember this happens automatically because the Anthem just has to compare the aspect ratio of the crop to the aspect ratio of the frame and figure out whether it is matching height or width according to the rule that neither dimension of the crop can be bigger than the actual input frame). That's part-way there. You have now thrown away the left and right pillar box bars applied by the HDTV broadcast station. But the top and bottom pillar box bars applied to make the 16:9 movie fit into the SDTV 4:3 shape are still there.


So what's to do?


Well as it turns out, you can specify a Custom Crop setting in the Anthem. Again, think of this with respect to the 1920x1080p internal video frame of the Anthem processor. If you make the Custom Crop smaller in BOTH dimensions then you will discard part of the image on the left and right AND part of the image on the top an bottom. With just the right pair of numbers you can extract precisely that 16:9 movie, embedded in the 4:3 SDTV frame, which is embedded in the HDTV broadcast.


The math is shown in one of those posts linked off the first post of this thread.


Custom Cropping gives you an additional feature which can sometimes be handy. If either dimension of the Custom Crop is smaller than the basic 1920x1080p input buffer, then you can ALSO specify the centering of the Crop on that buffer.


Suppose you have a "wider than wide screen" movie in a 16:9 HDTV frame. E.g., a 2.35:1 movie for example. And suppose you would prefer not to see the letter box bars top and bottom which are included in the broadcast to pad that move out the 16:9 shape of the HDTV frame. Well again you can specify a Custom Crop that is the full 1920 wide but is less than 1080 high. By default that will be centered vertically on the image. But sometimes you will get these broadcasts of foreign films where they put subtitles BELOW the image -- in what would otherwise be the empty letter-box bar below the image. Well if you crop down the the shape of the movie you will lose the subtitles. And if you widen the height of the crop to include the subtitles you will also retain a portion of the letter-box bar above the image as well.


But instead you can make a custom crop which is just big enough to stretch from the bottom of the subtitles up through to the top of the movie -- and SHIFT IT DOWN in the image buffer so that it is no longer centered but is positioned to show the subtitles.


OK that's the input side of things. But we aren't done yet.


The shape of the output video is defined by the video output resolution you have specified for your display. Usually that will be precisely 16:9, but sometimes not depending on your display.


The shape of the output is now a THIRD rectangle to consider -- along with the shape of the input frame and the shape of the crop applied to that input frame.


It is the job of the Anthem Scaler to adjust the shape of the CROPPED INPUT to match the shape of the desired output. Again you just have two rectangles at this point. The two of them either match in aspect ratio (resolution is not important here, just the shape) or one of the rectangles is wider than the other.


You remember that the key rule for Cropping is that the crop can not be bigger than the input frame in either dimension. Well the key rule for scaling is that every pixel included in the Crop must make it on screen. That means the Crop shape must fit INSIDE the screen shape.


So suppose you have a 4:3 Crop shape and 16:9 TV? Well since the Crop has to fit inside the TV, the height of the Crop must be scaled to match the height of the TV. But then the Crop isn't wide enough. What to do?


Well if you set Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box what the Anthem does is pad out the short dimension with either a letter or pillar box bar -- whichever is appropriate. The image itself is left unchanged. So a 4:3 crop sent to a 16:9 TV with Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box means that the Anthem will generate pillar box bars on either side an the 4:3 image will be embedded in the middle of the screen.


But if you set Scale Out = Anamorphic then the Anthem will STRETCH the short dimension of the Cropped image (uniformly across the length of that dimension) so that it just fits!


If you send a 4:3 cropped image to a 16:9 TV with Scale Out = Anamorphic, then the height of the image will just match the TV (no vertical distortion) and the width of the image will be stretched left to right uniformly to ALSO just match the width of the TV. Thus the image is distorted (uniformly). Circles look like wide ovals and the shape of that circle/oval is identical regardless of where it is in the image.


Another option, Scale Out = Panoramic, also stretches the Cropped input (as necessary), but concentrates the stretching more to the edges of the short dimension so that the center of the image is less distorted. Sending a 4:3 Cropped input to a 16:9 TV with Scale Out = Panoramic means the image will also just fit top to bottom and left to right (NOTE: In reality the Anthem MAY do a setting only CLOSE to an exact fit to make the stretching produce less distortion), and circles will, again, look like wide ovals, but circles near the center of the image will be closer to actually being circles and circles near the left and right sides of the image will be shown WIDER than would result from Anamorphic.


Suppose you have a 2.35:1 movie embedded in an HDTV 16:9 input frame, and you select a Custom Crop which crops down on it to just match the actual height of this "wider than wide screen" movie. If you send that Cropped input to a 16:9 TV with Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box, the Anthem will pad out the top and bottom of the Cropped input to make it match the desired 16:9 output shape. Which means you have just put back in the very same letter box bars you just Cropped Out! (Well it is a little different as the color of the output bars will be determined by your setting in the Anthem).


But if you specify Scale Out = Anamorphic, then the Anthem will STRETCH (uniformly) the Cropped, 2.35:1, input shape to make it just fit into your 16:9 output shape. Watched on a 16:9 TV, that means the 2.35:1 movie now just fills the screen top to bottom and left to right -- at the expense of distorting the image vertically (circles look like TALL ovals this time).


You could also make the Custom Crop somewhat taller than the actual 2.35:1 of the movie, in which case Anamorphic scaling would now be a compromise -- still some letter box bars but the bars are narrower, and still some vertical distortion but the distortion is not as much since the image doesn't have to be stretched vertically as much.


Or you could feed your Custom Cropped 2.35:1 movie -- stretched Anamorphically to just fit a 16:9 output shape -- into a projector that has a Constant Image Height Anamorphic lens which optically stretches the image into a wider shape. The net result is that your 2.35:1 movie is extracted (by the Crop), stretched to just fit the 16:9 shape the projector takes as input (by Anamorphic scaling), and then optically widened by the lens so that what you see on your projection screen just fits a 2.35:1 screen. Which is a cool thing to do because it means you are not wasting output pixel resolution to the projector by simply putting black letter box pixels in there.


OK, that just leaves the "Automatic" input aspect ratio stuff.


Some sources can flag HDMI or Component video to the Anthem as being 4:3 or 16:9. Now in the case of an HDTV set top box, this is pretty straightforward since the source broadcast shapes are different. In the case of Standard DVDs however, the data coming off the disc is 720x480i REGARDLESS of whether the image represents a 4:3 shape or a 16:9 shape.


720x480i is an intermediate shape -- wider than true 4:3 and narrower than true 16:9. And what that means is that the pixels have to be interpreted as "non-square pixels" according to which type of image they represent!


Anyway the flags are supposed to tell the Anthem how to interpret the input pixels. Remember the Anthem is going to buffer that into its internal 1920x1080p image processing buffer, so any Crop you define should be thought of in terms of that buffer.


Typically what you will do is set the Crop input on HDMI Auto Detect (even if the input is connected via Component cables).


And you will set the Scale Out to Letter-Pillar box.


Then, if the auto flags are being properly sent, the Anthem will pillar box anything flagged as representing 4:3 content and will leave untouched anything flagged as representing 16:9 content (since the input shape already matches your defined output shape, presuming your output video resolution is 16:9).


If your source is NOT properly flagging things, then you can leave Crop Input on HDMI Auto Detect and manually switch Scale Out between Anamorphic and Letter-Pillar Box according to whether you are watching a 16:9 program (or a program "anamorphically enhanced" for 16:9 TVs) or a 4:3 program that you want to make sure the Anthem properly pillar boxes to preserve its original aspect ratio.


One last caveat and I'll leave it to you to go review those posts linked in the first post of this thread with the aid of the explanation here: Do NOT use Scale Out = Zoom for normal viewing. It is applied after the Scaling of the image and will result both in a lower quality image and screwing up of film cadence detection. Zoom is sometimes useful when checking out your geometry during setup. Don't use it for normal viewing.


Oh, and also, remember that you can see and alter the Crop Input and Scale Out settings using the shortcuts under the Mode key on your remote. Press and hold the Mode key until the first shortcut comes up, release, pause very briefly and press and release the Mode key again to get to the next short cut, repeat to go through all the short cuts. While any shortcut is displayed you can alter it by using the Up and Down arrows on the remote.


And now a test for the careful reader: Can you set Crop and Scale to "squish" an image?


(Think about it)


Answer: No. The Crop can never be bigger than the image and Scaling can only stretch a Crop.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

LEVESQUE,

It might help to add that last post of mine to the links in the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling portion of the first post.

--Bob


----------



## gblack

Awesome post Bob! You've put in one post, what should be printed in Anthem's manual. That's a much better description than what they include.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12450724
> 
> 
> Ah, so I think (and from your sig) you're trying to use an anamorphic lens on a projector but not have a sled that moves the lens out of the way for non-scope content.
> 
> 
> I don't have the answer for you, but I'm pretty sure that this would require a custom scale out setting and not a crop setting. Crop removes part of the picture before output, scale just distorts it. And it's the latter you'd want to do with a 16:9 image.



You're correct I have an anamorphic setup. I've, perhaps making my life more difficult, been trying to phrase my questions in order to avoid that detail, because I've read the "no anamorphic modes" responses already. However, that is not necessarilly a deal breaker, my IN76 doesn't have any anamorphic-specific functions either, but I can use the "4:3" scaling mode to properly display 16:9, and the Letterbox mode to properly display 2.35:1. End result is with the IN76 + a source configured for 16:9 output everything is displayed in the correct AR, despite the IN76 not having "scope support".



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12450909
> 
> 
> OK let's try and start with the basics. First it helps to know that the Anthem converts all video input it is going to process to 1920x1080p, so when you see numbers in the custom crop info, that's what they refer to.
> 
> 
> Second, a lot of this material is covered in probably confusing detail in the posts linked off the first post of this thread -- see the "Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling section of those links.



Thanks Bob, that's about where I was, I could see a lot of those posts involved the concepts I was seeking info on, but they were so specific, that they left a lot of the details I'm looking for up to interpretation/guessing/assumption.



> Quote:
> So what is all this stuff?
> 
> 
> Crop Input extracts a subset of the input video. The crop can never be bigger than the actual input frame in either dimension, but it can be smaller. The 4:3 and 16:9 crops are simply pre-defined crops. Imagine an input video frame that is the shape of a rectangle. Suppose it is a 4:3 frame from an SDTV channel. If you apply the 4:3 crop to it the crop just fits both horizontally and vertically. But if you apply the 16:9 crop to it the shape doesn't match. If you make the crop match the height of the image then the sides of the crop would be off the image left and right. As I said, you can't do that. Both dimensions of the crop have to fit WITHIN the pixels of the actual input frame.



So, just so I ensure that I understand perfectly clearly, 4:3 and 16:9 input crops crop 1/4 of the image off the sides or top/bottom respectively?



> Quote:
> So what to do? Well if you think about it, any given input frame is either going to be wider aspect ratio than the crop, narrower than the crop, or just right. In this case the 4:3 input frame is narrower than the 16:9 crop.
> 
> 
> So instead of making the crop match the input in height, the Anthem makes it match in width. But wait! If it is going to match in width and still be a 16:9 crop that means the height must be made shorter. I.e., you have to discard some of the input image top and bottom.
> 
> 
> It might help to draw a picture of a 4:3 rectangle and then put a 16:9 rectangle on it that just matches in width. See? The 16:9 crop is going to "crop out" a 16:9 wide subset of the 4:3 input image that just matches in width but discards some of the top and bottom of the 4:3 input image.
> 
> 
> Why would you want to do this? Well suppose your SDTV channel was presenting a letter-boxed movie -- a 16:9 movie embedded in the 4:3 broadcast frame with black bars top and bottom to make up the difference in shape.
> 
> 
> Applying a 16:9 crop to that input video extracts the 16:9 movie from the center of that 4:3 frame.
> 
> 
> Now suppose you are watching an HDTV channel broadcasting at 1080i. It will be broadcasting a 16:9 frame. But sometimes what is shown in that broadcast is actually an SDTV program, scaled up to 1080i by the broadcast station and fleshed out with pillar box bars on the left and right to make up the 16:9 shape.
> 
> 
> If you apply a 16:9 crop to that it just fits. The Anthem has no work to do. It will pass on to the scaler the incoming video just as broadcast -- i.e., a 4:3 image embedded in a 16:9 frame with pillar box bars on either side.
> 
> 
> Suppose you want the Anthem to stretch that 4:3 image out to fill the screen left to right -- getting rid of the pillar box bars at the expense of distorting the image (circles now look like wide ovals). The problem is, the Anthem has no way of knowing which pixels are real image and which are the pillar box bars added by the studio.
> 
> 
> But wait! You can tell the Anthem. Simply apply a 4:3 crop to that input.
> 
> 
> Now if the 4:3 crop is as wide as the broadcast frame (including the embedded pillar box bar pixels which are part of the image the studio sends out -- remember the Anthem can't know which pixels are real and which are pillar bars) then the height of the crop must be too tall. Again you can never have a crop that is BIGGER than the input image in either dimension.
> 
> 
> So instead the 4:3 crop is set to match the HEIGHT of the 16:9 frame. But that must mean that the width of the crop is narrower than the width of the input frame (draw a picture here, again, if you need to). Indeed! That's just what you want! A 4:3 crop applied to a 16:9 frame will extract the 4:3 subset from the middle of that frame -- which just happens to be the pixels that make up the embedded SDTV program content.



OK so let's pause here and make sure everybody's on board. Honestly, I think your illustrations are confusing me more than they're helping, but I believe I finally understand how these crops work:


First the Anthem makes an assumption that I have not seen stated thus far:


SD content is assumed to be 4:3 by the Anthem.

HD content is assumed to be 16:9 by the Anthem.


That is assuming the Auto HDMI setting is disabled?


As for the crops:


4:3 crop cuts the input frame down to 4:3 (no effect on a 4:3 source determined per above assumption)

16:9 crop cuts the input frame down to 16:9 (no effect on 16:9 source determined per above assumption)


Or, this is another option (but the result is not really different), with Auto HDMI disabled, does the Anthem just assume square pixels?



> Quote:
> Finally, suppose you have an HDTV station broadcasting a 16:9 frame at 1080i, but at the moment what it is broadcasting is SDTV program content -- and that program content is an SDTV version of a letter boxed 16:9 movie.
> 
> 
> What you will see is that the movie is surrounded by black on all 4 sides. The SDTV program content adds black bars top and bottom to pad the 16:9 movie to a 4:3 shape, and the HDTV broadcast station then pads that 4:3 shape with bars left and right to pad it out to a 16:9 shape again. The result is that the 16:9 movie "floats" in the middle of the larger 16:9 frame.
> 
> 
> Well if you apply a 16:9 crop to that nothing will happen. The input frame is ALREADY 16:9. The Anthem doesn't know that a bunch of those pixels are just black bar pixels.
> 
> 
> And if you apply a 4:3 crop to that what you will extract is the 4:3 subset of the 16:9 input frame (remember this happens automatically because the Anthem just has to compare the aspect ratio of the crop to the aspect ratio of the frame and figure out whether it is matching height or width according to the rule that neither dimension of the crop can be bigger than the actual input frame). That's part-way there. You have now thrown away the left and right pillar box bars applied by the HDTV broadcast station. But the top and bottom pillar box bars applied to make the 16:9 movie fit into the SDTV 4:3 shape are still there.
> 
> 
> So what's to do?
> 
> 
> Well as it turns out, you can specify a Custom Crop setting in the Anthem. Again, think of this with respect to the 1920x1080p internal video frame of the Anthem processor. If you make the Custom Crop smaller in BOTH dimensions then you will discard part of the image on the left and right AND part of the image on the top an bottom. With just the right pair of numbers you can extract precisely that 16:9 movie, embedded in the 4:3 SDTV frame, which is embedded in the HDTV broadcast.
> 
> 
> The math is shown in one of those posts linked off the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> Custom Cropping gives you an additional feature which can sometimes be handy. If either dimension of the Custom Crop is smaller than the basic 1920x1080p input buffer, then you can ALSO specify the centering of the Crop on that buffer.
> 
> 
> Suppose you have a "wider than wide screen" movie in a 16:9 HDTV frame. E.g., a 2.35:1 movie for example. And suppose you would prefer not to see the letter box bars top and bottom which are included in the broadcast to pad that move out the 16:9 shape of the HDTV frame. Well again you can specify a Custom Crop that is the full 1920 wide but is less than 1080 high. By default that will be centered vertically on the image. But sometimes you will get these broadcasts of foreign films where they put subtitles BELOW the image -- in what would otherwise be the empty letter-box bar below the image. Well if you crop down the the shape of the movie you will lose the subtitles. And if you widen the height of the crop to include the subtitles you will also retain a portion of the letter-box bar above the image as well.
> 
> 
> But instead you can make a custom crop which is just big enough to stretch from the bottom of the subtitles up through to the top of the movie -- and SHIFT IT DOWN in the image buffer so that it is no longer centered but is positioned to show the subtitles.
> 
> 
> OK that's the input side of things. But we aren't done yet.



So to sumarize Custom Crop, the parameters are Width, Height, and Horizontal/Vertical Offset?



> Quote:
> The shape of the output video is defined by the video output resolution you have specified for your display. Usually that will be precisely 16:9, but sometimes not depending on your display.
> 
> 
> The shape of the output is now a THIRD rectangle to consider -- along with the shape of the input frame and the shape of the crop applied to that input frame.
> 
> 
> It is the job of the Anthem Scaler to adjust the shape of the CROPPED INPUT to match the shape of the desired output. Again you just have two rectangles at this point. The two of them either match in aspect ratio (resolution is not important here, just the shape) or one of the rectangles is wider than the other.
> 
> 
> You remember that the key rule for Cropping is that the crop can not be bigger than the input frame in either dimension. Well the key rule for scaling is that every pixel included in the Crop must make it on screen. That means the Crop shape must fit INSIDE the screen shape.
> 
> 
> So suppose you have a 4:3 Crop shape and 16:9 TV? Well since the Crop has to fit inside the TV, the height of the Crop must be scaled to match the height of the TV. But then the Crop isn't wide enough. What to do?
> 
> 
> Well if you set Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box what the Anthem does is pad out the short dimension with either a letter or pillar box bar -- whichever is appropriate. The image itself is left unchanged. So a 4:3 crop sent to a 16:9 TV with Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box means that the Anthem will generate pillar box bars on either side an the 4:3 image will be embedded in the middle of the screen.
> 
> 
> But if you set Scale Out = Anamorphic then the Anthem will STRETCH the short dimension of the Cropped image (uniformly across the length of that dimension) so that it just fits!
> 
> 
> If you send a 4:3 cropped image to a 16:9 TV with Scale Out = Anamorphic, then the height of the image will just match the TV (no vertical distortion) and the width of the image will be stretched left to right uniformly to ALSO just match the width of the TV. Thus the image is distorted (uniformly). Circles look like wide ovals and the shape of that circle/oval is identical regardless of where it is in the image.
> 
> 
> Another option, Scale Out = Panoramic, also stretches the Cropped input (as necessary), but concentrates the stretching more to the edges of the short dimension so that the center of the image is less distorted. Sending a 4:3 Cropped input to a 16:9 TV with Scale Out = Panoramic means the image will also just fit top to bottom and left to right (NOTE: In reality the Anthem MAY do a setting only CLOSE to an exact fit to make the stretching produce less distortion), and circles will, again, look like wide ovals, but circles near the center of the image will be closer to actually being circles and circles near the left and right sides of the image will be shown WIDER than would result from Anamorphic.
> 
> 
> Suppose you have a 2.35:1 movie embedded in an HDTV 16:9 input frame, and you select a Custom Crop which crops down on it to just match the actual height of this "wider than wide screen" movie. If you send that Cropped input to a 16:9 TV with Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box, the Anthem will pad out the top and bottom of the Cropped input to make it match the desired 16:9 output shape. Which means you have just put back in the very same letter box bars you just Cropped Out! (Well it is a little different as the color of the output bars will be determined by your setting in the Anthem).
> 
> 
> But if you specify Scale Out = Anamorphic, then the Anthem will STRETCH (uniformly) the Cropped, 2.35:1, input shape to make it just fit into your 16:9 output shape. Watched on a 16:9 TV, that means the 2.35:1 movie now just fills the screen top to bottom and left to right -- at the expense of distorting the image vertically (circles look like TALL ovals this time).
> 
> 
> You could also make the Custom Crop somewhat taller than the actual 2.35:1 of the movie, in which case Anamorphic scaling would now be a compromise -- still some letter box bars but the bars are narrower, and still some vertical distortion but the distortion is not as much since the image doesn't have to be stretched vertically as much.
> 
> 
> Or you could feed your Custom Cropped 2.35:1 movie -- stretched Anamorphically to just fit a 16:9 output shape -- into a projector that has a Constant Image Height Anamorphic lens which optically stretches the image into a wider shape. The net result is that your 2.35:1 movie is extracted (by the Crop), stretched to just fit the 16:9 shape the projector takes as input (by Anamorphic scaling), and then optically widened by the lens so that what you see on your projection screen just fits a 2.35:1 screen. Which is a cool thing to do because it means you are not wasting output pixel resolution to the projector by simply putting black letter box pixels in there.



OK, but what happens if you've got a 4:3 source, that the provider has upconverted into 16:9 HD without pillarboxing (ie the source is stretched horizontally), how would you undo that? If I'm reading everything you've posted correctly, there's no way to fix that.


Thanks again for the response I really appreciate it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

On your last question, that is correct. Once the studio has stretched (distorted) the 4:3 content to fill a 16:9 frame the Anthem has no mechanism to undo that and return it back to a 4:3 image embedded in pillar bars.


As for the rest, I'm afraid I don't think I can do any better than what I've done. This may only make sense to you when you have a chance to sit down with an Anthem and actually use the controls to see what they do as you try the things described in my notes.


Just keep in mind that the Anthem doesn't know anything about what's inside the video input stream. It doesn't know that an HDTV channel might be broadcasting a 2.35:1 movie for example.


All the Anthem knows is the shape of the video input itself, which, for standard definition stuff, may be modified by the "anamorphic" input flags to say that the pixels should be considered fatter (representing 16:9 content) or narrower (representing 4:3 content).

--Bob


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12452821
> 
> 
> On your last question, that is correct. Once the studio has stretched (distorted) the 4:3 content to fill a 16:9 frame the Anthem has no mechanism to undo that and return it back to a 4:3 image embedded in pillar bars.



Drat, that may well be a deal breaker.



> Quote:
> As for the rest, I'm afraid I don't think I can do any better than what I've done. This may only make sense to you when you have a chance to sit down with an Anthem and actually use the controls to see what they do as you try the things described in my notes.



I don't know, I think I've got it now, I guess you just explain it differently than I think about it.



> Quote:
> Just keep in mind that the Anthem doesn't know anything about what's inside the video input stream. It doesn't know that an HDTV channel might be broadcasting a 2.35:1 movie for example.



True, and I don't expect it to, but it seems most any other scaler/processor has the ability to "override" the output AR in one way or another, usually something as simple as "4:3" vs "16:9" that will either pillarbox or fill the screen (respectively). I'm surprised there's nothing like that on the Anthem. That's right up there with the RS-1 not doing vertical stretch on HD content.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well except for the "squeeze" function we were just talking about, I believe the Anthem DOES do everything that you might want to do. You may have to set it to do so instead of it happening automatically, but I play around with this Cropping and Scaling stuff a lot with different sorts of content and I've yet to run into something I wanted that I couldn't make the Anthem do.


One problem with the squeeze stuff of course is that different broadcasters have different ideas about how to make fake HD "stretchovision" out of SD content. The Turner people for example like to do it in a "panoramic" fashion (non-uniform stretch). To undo that, of course, you would need to know HOW they did it non-uniformly.


Perhaps I missed it in your posts while I was away, but give a few specific examples of what you might like to do to watch certain content, and I'll tell you what I know about how to set the Anthem to do it.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball

Bob,

I'm sure others are thinking this right now but I for one think this place is a whole lot better with you in it. On behalf of the 10,000 or so lurkers.......


Thank You


Peter


----------



## gblack

nine ball: Very True!


I'll add my own Q's to this discussion:


With the various scaler settings, are there remote control short cuts so that I can have one button to change the crop setting? I'm using a Harmony, and I'd love to be able to hit one button to change cropping when watching TV content.


Second related question, I know you can set up layers for each input (DVD1, DVD2, etc). Are these addressable via the remote control easily as a one-click input? (for the same reason as above)


Third unrelated question, I've noticed that when watching TV (connected via HDMI from an SA PVR) that my anthem displays the incoming video resolution correctly. But when I watch a DVD from my Toshiba (1998 vintage) dvd player via component it says "No Video Input". But when I bring up the scaler menu, it correctly says in the Info tab that the input is 720x480. Any reason why on component I don't get video information on the display? or is it because my rather old Toshiba isn't including that information in its output?


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12453869
> 
> 
> Well except for the "squeeze" function we were just talking about, I believe the Anthem DOES do everything that you might want to do. You may have to set it to do so instead of it happening automatically, but I play around with this Cropping and Scaling stuff a lot with different sorts of content and I've yet to run into something I wanted that I couldn't make the Anthem do.





> Quote:
> One problem with the squeeze stuff of course is that different broadcasters have different ideas about how to make fake HD "stretchovision" out of SD content. The Turner people for example like to do it in a "panoramic" fashion (non-uniform stretch). To undo that, of course, you would need to know HOW they did it non-uniformly.



True, I'm just talking about the simple case, ie linear stretch.



> Quote:
> Perhaps I missed it in your posts while I was away, but give a few specific examples of what you might like to do to watch certain content, and I'll tell you what I know about how to set the Anthem to do it.
> 
> --Bob



Quite simply, I need to squeeze anything horizontally by 25%.


Eg 1920x1080i input squeeze to 1440x1080 and scale to 1280x720 (PJ's native res) pillarboxed. Yup, I've got a constant height setup so I need the requisite scaling. I know the Anthem can do the vertical stretch (Custom Crop + scale Anamorphic), but I need the horizontal squeeze to. I was hoping that there was a way to "trick" it into thinking HD inputs were 4:3 instead of 16:9, which would take care of that.


As best I can tell, there's no way to do that, which is unfortunate because I really like my AVM-20, and I'd like to upgrade to HDMI audio and a VXP scaler, but if it can't do that, there's no way I can justify the upgrade cost.


Thanks again for the help, I really do appreciate it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Correct. That is the one thing you can't do that folks have asked for here.


I believe the Anthem hardware is capable of doing it, but Anthem points out, quite correctly, that adjusting the image with a "squeeze" this way discards horizontal resolution, so their recommendation is that you switch out the lens in the projector unless you are actually watching 2.35:1 content.


There have been a few other folks contact Anthem asking for such a squeeze feature to be added for their CIH setups. You might want to give Anthem a call and put in your vote as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12454286
> 
> 
> nine ball: Very True!
> 
> 
> I'll add my own Q's to this discussion:
> 
> 
> With the various scaler settings, are there remote control short cuts so that I can have one button to change the crop setting? I'm using a Harmony, and I'd love to be able to hit one button to change cropping when watching TV content.
> 
> 
> Second related question, I know you can set up layers for each input (DVD1, DVD2, etc). Are these addressable via the remote control easily as a one-click input? (for the same reason as above)
> 
> 
> Third unrelated question, I've noticed that when watching TV (connected via HDMI from an SA PVR) that my anthem displays the incoming video resolution correctly. But when I watch a DVD from my Toshiba (1998 vintage) dvd player via component it says "No Video Input". But when I bring up the scaler menu, it correctly says in the Info tab that the input is 720x480. Any reason why on component I don't get video information on the display? or is it because my rather old Toshiba isn't including that information in its output?



Three key sequences you can program into a remote to directly access various features can be found in Appendix A of the Manual. The overlayed inputs are all accessible this way.


Unfortunately there are no similar key sequences to get to the video processor options. The best you can do is set up overlayed inputs with, for example, one Letter Boxed and one Anamorphic, or whatever and then switch inputs.


Personally, I find accessing the shortcuts via the Mode key not that onerous. But that's obviously not as good as just having a labeled button you can add to your remote rather than having to train a viewer as to how to get to those Mode shortcuts.


The info displayed when pressing the Select key and the info displayed in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel are gathered different ways and at different times. I've seen cases with the older software that the version under Select doesn't seem to pick up on the correct state of things at the correct time. Basically it is a bug in the Anthem. The Info panel seems to be the most reliable.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12455488
> 
> 
> Correct. That is the one thing you can't do that folks have asked for here.



Yeah, I saw that, but I guess I was just hoping it was referring to something more refined.



> Quote:
> I believe the Anthem hardware is capable of doing it, but Anthem points out, quite correctly, that adjusting the image with a "squeeze" this way discards horizontal resolution, so their recommendation is that you switch out the lens in the projector unless you are actually watching 2.35:1 content.



While true that it does discard resolutions, there are several problems with not having it:


1) Some lenses can't be removed (VC lenses must be in place all the time)

2) You can't fix incorrectly stretched content.

3) Some people would rather have the convenience/consistency of not moving the lens.


And I'm positive the scaler is capable, the Crystallio II has specific CIH support, you can specify 2.35:1 output size and it automatically adjusts everything accordingly. And the C2 has the same Genum VXP as the Anthem. The Lumagen Radiance XD has the same thing.



> Quote:
> There have been a few other folks contact Anthem asking for such a squeeze feature to be added for their CIH setups. You might want to give Anthem a call and put in your vote as well.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah, I suppose I might email them, but unless they tell me they're currently working on it, it will probably be too late and I'll need to investigate other solutions. Unfortunately HDMI is becoming necessary and the only way I can justify staying with Anthem is if I can upgrade my current 20.


Thanks again for the help.


----------



## bluemark81

I almost pulled the plug today and purchased a new Panasonic TH-58PZ700 plasma display. The thing that held me back is the fact that it does not support 24 Hz. I am thinking "down-the-road", however, if I am eventually to feed a 24 Hz signal into the AVM50 is there a method of reducing the judders created by outputting 60 Hz to the display using the Anthem? Is this even an issue?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12462334
> 
> 
> I almost pulled the plug today and purchased a new Panasonic TH-58PZ700 plasma display. The thing that held me back is the fact that it does not support 24 Hz. I am thinking "down-the-road", however, if I am eventually to feed a 24 Hz signal into the AVM50 is there a method of reducing the judders created by outputting 60 Hz to the display using the Anthem? Is this even an issue?



You can't cheap mother nature










The only way to do away with judder is a refresh

rate that is a multiple of 24 and 60 is not one of

them.


----------



## kjgarrison

I saw some posts from back around May or June about the failure on the HQV Film Loss Resolution test (3:2 pulldown). A firmware fix was promised by Gennum. I did a search for firmware in the thread and can't seem to find anything that looks like the problem was fixed.


Was it fixed, or does the Gennum (D2/AVM50) still fail the HQV 3:2 pulldown test?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12462334
> 
> 
> I almost pulled the plug today and purchased a new Panasonic TH-58PZ700 plasma display. The thing that held me back is the fact that it does not support 24 Hz. I am thinking "down-the-road", however, if I am eventually to feed a 24 Hz signal into the AVM50 is there a method of reducing the judders created by outputting 60 Hz to the display using the Anthem? Is this even an issue?



Some people are extremely sensitive to judder, many do not notice it, and some who think they are bothered by it are actually seeing something else entirely.


For the vast majority, it is a very subtle effect. If you KNOW you see it, then you don't want to get a display that can't support 24 hz (or a multiple, like 120 hz).


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12462334
> 
> 
> I almost pulled the plug today and purchased a new Panasonic TH-58PZ700 plasma display. The thing that held me back is the fact that it does not support 24 Hz. I am thinking "down-the-road", however, if I am eventually to feed a 24 Hz signal into the AVM50 is there a method of reducing the judders created by outputting 60 Hz to the display using the Anthem? Is this even an issue?



OT but based on what I've seen the Pioneers are the best overall performers and they support 24p input as well.


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12455533
> 
> 
> Three key sequences you can program into a remote to directly access various features can be found in Appendix A of the Manual. The overlayed inputs are all accessible this way.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately there are no similar key sequences to get to the video processor options. The best you can do is set up overlayed inputs with, for example, one Letter Boxed and one Anamorphic, or whatever and then switch inputs.
> 
> 
> Personally, I find accessing the shortcuts via the Mode key not that onerous. But that's obviously not as good as just having a labeled button you can add to your remote rather than having to train a viewer as to how to get to those Mode shortcuts.
> 
> 
> The info displayed when pressing the Select key and the info displayed in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel are gathered different ways and at different times. I've seen cases with the older software that the version under Select doesn't seem to pick up on the correct state of things at the correct time. Basically it is a bug in the Anthem. The Info panel seems to be the most reliable.
> 
> --Bob



Does the Anthem have direct IR or RS232 commands? If so, to do the squeeze, just get the Input aspect ratio to 2.35 as well as the output ratio to 2.35.


----------



## kjgarrison




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjgarrison* /forum/post/12462468
> 
> 
> I saw some posts from back around May or June about the failure on the HQV Film Loss Resolution test (3:2 pulldown). A firmware fix was promised by Gennum. I did a search for firmware in the thread and can't seem to find anything that looks like the problem was fixed.
> 
> 
> Was it fixed, or does the Gennum (D2/AVM50) still fail?



bump


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/12463982
> 
> 
> Does the Anthem have direct IR or RS232 commands? If so, to do the squeeze, just get the Input aspect ratio to 2.35 as well as the output ratio to 2.35.



Jeff, you keep popping in here every once in a while. Just go ahead and buy a D2. You know you want to!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

An Excel file listing the RS-232 commands the Anthems will accept can be found as part of the Anthem Software V1.11 download available from the Anthem web site. I don't believe we've had any posts here indicating updates of that for newer Anthem software.


As of that version, I don't see anything that could be use to command a "squeeze" function from the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## kjgarrison




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjgarrison* /forum/post/12462468
> 
> 
> I saw some posts from back around May or June about the failure on the HQV Film Loss Resolution test (3:2 pulldown). A firmware fix was promised by Gennum. I did a search for firmware in the thread and can't seem to find anything that looks like the problem was fixed.
> 
> 
> Was it fixed, or does the Gennum (D2/AVM50) still fail the HQV 3:2 pulldown test?



Hello all. I am new here, and if my question offends I apologize. I did not read all 300+ pages of this thread, but I did search for "firmware" and "deinterlace". I also looked on the website but can't find the date of the latest firmware nor what it fixed.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12464326
> 
> 
> Jeff, you keep popping in here every once in a while. Just go ahead and buy a D2. You know you want to!


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12464326
> 
> 
> Jeff, you keep popping in here every once in a while. Just go ahead and buy a D2. You know you want to!










Just take a D2, do a small paint job, change the name-tag to ''Halcro'' or ''Lexicon'', double the price, charge 1200$ to ''fix'' a crippled HDMI 1.1 connection, charge $ for every little firmware upgrade, charge $ for the software for the room eq, and Jeff will be all over it.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/12467670
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just take a D2, do a small paint job, change the name-tag to ''Halcro'' or ''Lexicon'', double the price, charge 1200$ to ''fix'' a crippled HDMI 1.1 connection, charge $ for every little firmware upgrade, charge $ for the software for the room eq, and Jeff will be all over it.



Now Now Now - it is the Holiday Season.


Behave yourself


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjgarrison* /forum/post/12465509
> 
> 
> Hello all. I am new here, and if my question offends I apologize. I did not read all 300+ pages of this thread, but I did search for "firmware" and "deinterlace". I also looked on the website but can't find the date of the latest firmware nor what it fixed.



Probably the reason no one has answered is that those who read don't know, and those who know haven't read this thread.


Posting three times in a day likely doesn't help.










Since this is a Gennum question, it might be hard to get an answer in a D2 thread. You're just as likely to get an answer in a RS-1 thread (they also use the Gennum chip).










One person who might know is Kris Deering since he's involved in testing AV equipment. I haven't seen him post here in many months.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12468455
> 
> 
> Now Now Now - it is the Holiday Season.
> 
> 
> Behave yourself



I know I know, but TheBland is a tough guy, I know he can take it.


----------



## kjgarrison




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/12469063
> 
> 
> Probably the reason no one has answered is that those who read don't know, and those who know haven't read this thread.
> 
> 
> Posting three times in a day likely doesn't help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since this is a Gennum question, it might be hard to get an answer in a D2 thread. You're just as likely to get an answer in a RS-1 thread (they also use the Gennum chip).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One person who might know is Kris Deering since he's involved in testing AV equipment. I haven't seen him post here in many months.



Gordon, thanks. I only posted here because it was discussed here in several posts. Also, even if Gennum "fixes" the problem, I didn't know if Anthem would have to do additional tweaks to the firmware. Also, it looks like Anthem doesn't do firmware upgrades very often, and I wonder if that is a good thing or a bad thing (as in not needed vs slow support). Bottom line it is this equipment I am looking at joining the club with, and it is Anthem's implementation of the Gennum chip I care about. But thank you for some ideas about where to look further.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/12472102
> 
> 
> I know I know, but TheBland is a tough guy, I know he can take it.



But not everyone here KNOWS JEFF


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjgarrison* /forum/post/12472223
> 
> 
> Gordon, thanks. I only posted here because it was discussed here in several posts. Also, even if Gennum "fixes" the problem, I didn't know if Anthem would have to do additional tweaks to the firmware. Also, it looks like Anthem doesn't do firmware upgrades very often, and I wonder if that is a good thing or a bad thing (as in not needed vs slow support). Bottom line it is this equipment I am looking at joining the club with, and it is Anthem's implementation of the Gennum chip I care about. But thank you for some ideas about where to look further.



FYI - HQV makes the Reon chip - which you probably know.


They also make a test disk that you referred to.


It is a well known fact that the test sequences on

the test disk are hand crafted to work on the Reon

chip and FAIL on all other chips. Therefore the fact

that Gennum fails is inconsequential. It is a meaningless

test to only get consumers to THINK they need to

buy a product using the Reon Chip.


Only trust test disks that are made my independent

sources who are in no way connected to a video

processor chip.


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/12469063
> 
> 
> Probably the reason no one has answered is that those who read don't know, and those who know haven't read this thread.
> 
> 
> Posting three times in a day likely doesn't help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since this is a Gennum question, it might be hard to get an answer in a D2 thread. You're just as likely to get an answer in a RS-1 thread (they also use the Gennum chip).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One person who might know is Kris Deering since he's involved in testing AV equipment. I haven't seen him post here in many months.




Not sure exactly what you are looking for but YES, the D2 can properly de-interlace both film and video sources from 1080i to 1080p. This applies for both 2-3 and 2-2 based sources.


At this point, Anthem probably knows how to tweak the Gennum chip better than Gennum does, and that isn't really a joke.


----------



## kjgarrison




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12472409
> 
> 
> FYI - HQV makes the Reon chip - which you probably know.
> 
> 
> They also make a test disk that you referred to.
> 
> 
> It is a well known fact that the test sequences on
> 
> the test disk are hand crafted to work on the Reon
> 
> chip and FAIL on all other chips. Therefore the fact
> 
> that Gennum fails is inconsequential. It is a meaningless
> 
> test to only get consumers to THINK they need to
> 
> buy a product using the Reon Chip.
> 
> 
> Only trust test disks that are made my independent
> 
> sources who are in no way connected to a video
> 
> processor chip.



I have wondered about that conflict of interest between Silicon Optix's test and thier chips. The Reon is their low end chip, and the Realta their high end chip.


I would definitely like to learn more about the "well known fact" regarding the bias built into the HQV test which you refer to. I am also very interested in learning about any the test discs from independent sources.


On the other hand, the HQV tests appear to have become widely accepted by reviewers of all sorts of equipment, something I find puzzling if the tests are widely known to be biased. Another thing that is puzzling is the email posted in this thread from Gennum saying that they acknowledge that the failure of their chip to pass the HQV tests is viewed as a problem which they were working on a firmware fix for.


Respectfully submitted.


----------



## bluemark81

I'm wondering what people that have Panasonics PZ700 and Anthems AVM50/D2 are using for video settings on both units?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/12472445
> 
> 
> Not sure exactly what you are looking for but YES, the D2 can properly de-interlace both film and video sources from 1080i to 1080p. This applies for both 2-3 and 2-2 based sources.
> 
> 
> At this point, Anthem probably knows how to tweak the Gennum chip better than Gennum does, and that isn't really a joke.



Great to see you poking around in this thread again Kris.


----------



## kjgarrison




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/12472445
> 
> 
> Not sure exactly what you are looking for but YES, the D2 can properly de-interlace both film and video sources from 1080i to 1080p. This applies for both 2-3 and 2-2 based sources.
> 
> 
> At this point, Anthem probably knows how to tweak the Gennum chip better than Gennum does, and that isn't really a joke.



Thank you. I was referred to the Anthem product line and did a search of this thread for "deinterlacing" and saw several posts where these products failed part or parts the HQV HD test. Somebody posted an email from Gennum saying it was true about the failure and that a firmware fix was forthcoming.


I then searched the thread for "firmware" and found no posts addressing new firmware to resolve this problem. I also looked at the Anthem website to see if there is any mention of firmware dates and what was fixed.


So I asked for clarification that indeed no such firmware update had happened.


So what I'm looking, *and hoping*, for is that these units have had the firmware upgrade and that they now pass the HQV HD tests. Hoping because I want to buy one.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjgarrison* /forum/post/12476048
> 
> 
> Thank you. I was referred to the Anthem product line and did a search of this thread for "deinterlacing" and saw several posts where these products failed part or parts the HQV HD test. Somebody posted an email from Gennum saying it was true about the failure and that a firmware fix was forthcoming.
> 
> 
> I then searched the thread for "firmware" and found no posts addressing new firmware to resolve this problem. I also looked at the Anthem website to see if there is any mention of firmware dates and what was fixed.
> 
> 
> So I asked for clarification that indeed no such firmware update had happened.
> 
> 
> So what I'm looking, *and hoping*, for is that these units have had the firmware upgrade and that they now pass the HQV HD tests. Hoping because I want to buy one.



I think folks are interested in what the "real" issue is, not what the test # is on a competing vendor test suite. If you go to Kris' site you'll see dozens of units which miss one or more reality based tests but still come with high recommendations. If you can explain what the problem actually is (what issue, what resolution input, what type of video, color space, etc.), how it impacts a *real world viewing*, then people may have a better recollection of either how it is fixed or moot. Continuing to rant about a synthetic test with no specifics is not getting you the specific answer OR how it may or not matter by virtue of other fixes, etc.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjgarrison* /forum/post/12476048
> 
> 
> Thank you. I was referred to the Anthem product line and did a search of this thread for "deinterlacing" and saw several posts where these products failed part or parts the HQV HD test. Somebody posted an email from Gennum saying it was true about the failure and that a firmware fix was forthcoming.
> 
> 
> I then searched the thread for "firmware" and found no posts addressing new firmware to resolve this problem. I also looked at the Anthem website to see if there is any mention of firmware dates and what was fixed.
> 
> 
> So I asked for clarification that indeed no such firmware update had happened.
> 
> 
> So what I'm looking, *and hoping*, for is that these units have had the firmware upgrade and that they now pass the HQV HD tests. Hoping because I want to buy one.



You're only hope of finding what fixes were done in various D2 FW releases is to call Nick at Anthem support.


larry


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12477942
> 
> 
> You're only hope of finding what fixes were done in various D2 FW releases is to call Nick at Anthem support.
> 
> 
> larry


*kjgarrison* DOES NOT OWN any Anthem Product.


Nick is probably busy supporting Anthem Customers

and the CES show - just a few weeks away.


----------



## jpillar

Hi Everyone,


Just got my setup about 2 weeks now. (D2, A5, Pioneer Kuro 150FD, D* HR21 DVR and OPPO 970 DVD). Everything is great, pictures and sound are just stunning. However, once in a while I have hand shake issues between the Anthem and my components. All my conections are HDMI and somtimes when I swithch from Oppos to the DVR or the DVR to th Oppo the Anthem will cycle a few times and I get a blue screen. Is there a way to re-start the hand shake without turning the equipment on and off which seems to be the only was I can get them to connect again. This happens only occasionally but I don't think turning the equipment on and off is a good thing to do.


Thanks

John


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/12479058
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> 
> Just got my setup about 2 weeks now. (D2, A5, Pioneer Kuro 150FD, D* HR21 DVR and OPPO 970 DVD). Everything is great, pictures and sound are just stunning. However, once in a while I have hand shake issues between the Anthem and my components. All my conections are HDMI and somtimes when I swithch from Oppos to the DVR or the DVR to th Oppo the Anthem will cycle a few times and I get a blue screen. Is there a way to re-start the hand shake without turning the equipment on and off which seems to be the only was I can get them to connect again. This happens only occasionally but I don't think turning the equipment on and off is a good thing to do.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> John



I have experienced similar issues, primarily with a DVR though.....have not had issues with the OPPO. As you may know, troubleshoot the suspected source by trying component video+SPDIF which takes HDMI handshake out of the picture. You may be able to avoid turning the source on/off by switching to an unused input then back again......


----------



## zzzzdoc

Anyone having any handshake issues with DirecTV HR20 DVR and the D2? I was planning on avoiding all those issues by using component (mainly to decrease channel change lag on HDMI due to handshakes occurring each time I change channels). I haven't tested this myself yet due to my theater being torn apart as I speak.


Also, anyone using the D2 via RS-232? Any issues? I haven't had any with the Keyspan USB-Serial dongle for firmware upgrades, but using and upgrading are different beasts.


----------



## slots1

No problem at all with the D2 and the HR20. Super great pic now that I have my Marantz S3 pic ISF'd. Using the hd Toshbia A35 the flags work on my 3x4 and certain cinemascope dvd's that did not work on my Pioneer dvd player.

Gerry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/12479058
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> 
> Just got my setup about 2 weeks now. (D2, A5, Pioneer Kuro 150FD, D* HR21 DVR and OPPO 970 DVD). Everything is great, pictures and sound are just stunning. However, once in a while I have hand shake issues between the Anthem and my components. All my conections are HDMI and somtimes when I swithch from Oppos to the DVR or the DVR to th Oppo the Anthem will cycle a few times and I get a blue screen. Is there a way to re-start the hand shake without turning the equipment on and off which seems to be the only was I can get them to connect again. This happens only occasionally but I don't think turning the equipment on and off is a good thing to do.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> John



Just switch the Anthem to a different input (any style -- even nothing connected) and then back to your desired HDMI input. That always forces a new HDMI handshake.

--Bob


----------



## t3chi3

I am using an AVM50 connected via HDMI to my Sony VPL-VW60 1080p projector. I have 2.35:1 screen and would like to leave the projector zoomed to this format and then use the AVM50 to process 16:9, 1.78:1, 4:3 ect to make them look acceptable. My preference is to have movies like Lord of the Rings look the best on the system and I'm willing to make some sacrifices for other formats as it really is a pain to zoom and shift my projector image each time I want to watch something different.


I had limited success using the AVM50 scaler to do a "no scaling" mode with 80% vertical image (cutting off 20% from the bottom) on a 1.78:1 image (Heros). Is this the best I'll be able to do? It would be nice to be able to reduce the entire image to fit completely onto the screen but zoom doesn't seem to do this for me but I may not be using it right...


----------



## LEVESQUE

Btw, the Gennum chip is doing a better job then the HQV chips in keeping a cadence lock through test material loops such as the infamous “Super Speedway” sequence on the HQV test disk. The Gennum chip is the only one that I know of that never drops out of film mode through the loop...


Funny disk that HQV test disk.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Funny disk that HQV test disk.



EXACTLY MY POINT


----------



## bluemark81

Just tried to make some video adjustments through the AVM50 and the OSD display comes up, but I am unable to change anything. All settings seem to be greyed out and at the bottom of the OSD it says video input required. I am running a single HDMI from the Anthem to the TV. TV is a panny 58pz700. Any ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12483632
> 
> 
> Just tried to make some video adjustments through the AVM50 and the OSD display comes up, but I am unable to change anything. All settings seem to be greyed out and at the bottom of the OSD it says video input required. I am running a single HDMI from the Anthem to the TV. TV is a panny 58pz700. Any ideas?



Which settings are you trying to change?


Some of the settings in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) for any given input can only be changed if there is currently a video stream coming in on that input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *t3chi3* /forum/post/12481176
> 
> 
> I am using an AVM50 connected via HDMI to my Sony VPL-VW60 1080p projector. I have 2.35:1 screen and would like to leave the projector zoomed to this format and then use the AVM50 to process 16:9, 1.78:1, 4:3 ect to make them look acceptable. My preference is to have movies like Lord of the Rings look the best on the system and I'm willing to make some sacrifices for other formats as it really is a pain to zoom and shift my projector image each time I want to watch something different.
> 
> 
> I had limited success using the AVM50 scaler to do a "no scaling" mode with 80% vertical image (cutting off 20% from the bottom) on a 1.78:1 image (Heros). Is this the best I'll be able to do? It would be nice to be able to reduce the entire image to fit completely onto the screen but zoom doesn't seem to do this for me but I may not be using it right...



You can not "squeeze" video input with the Anthem. You can only crop it (extract portions of it and lose the rest) or "stretch the (possibly cropped) video.


I'm not sure if you are using "zoom" to mean the Scale Out = Zoom setting, but if so, please be aware that you should NOT use Zoom for normal viewing. It will result in significantly poorer imaging quality.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12483662
> 
> 
> Which settings are you trying to change?
> 
> 
> Some of the settings in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) for any given input can only be changed if there is currently a video stream coming in on that input.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Weird.....I'm not sure what I did or didn't do previously but it seems to be working now.


I just got a new display and I'm trying to adjust some of the video settings within the Anthem.


----------



## bluemark81

Bob:


I'm trying to set up the video settings properly and I'm not quite sure where to start. I just purchased this new set and I also have the Avia disk. Do I use the Avia disk and adjust the settings on the TV first and then tweak them using the Anthem?


----------



## t3chi3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12483698
> 
> 
> You can not "squeeze" video input with the Anthem. You can only crop it (extract portions of it and lose the rest) or "stretch the (possibly cropped) video.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if you are using "zoom" to mean the Scale Out = Zoom setting, but if so, please be aware that you should NOT use Zoom for normal viewing. It will result in significantly poorer imaging quality.
> 
> --Bob



I may experiment with stretch. Thanks.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12483819
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I'm trying to set up the video settings properly and I'm not quite sure where to start. I just purchased this new set and I also have the Avia disk. Do I use the Avia disk and adjust the settings on the TV first and then tweak them using the Anthem?



You should use the Anthem's own generated color bars to setup your TV. They are digitally generated and will be more accurate than coming from a disc. But you can use the blue filter that came with your avia disc to setup the TV using the anthem's generated Color bars. I use DVE, so not sure about Avia, but I'm sure they explain SMPTE color bars (and the anthem manual does a good job of explaining them).


Once you've got the TV setup with the anthem generated bars, then you can fine tune your DVD player by playing the avia disc and using the brightness/contrast/color control settings in the anthem's video Picture menu.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12484893
> 
> 
> You should use the Anthem's own generated color bars to setup your TV. They are digitally generated and will be more accurate than coming from a disc. But you can use the blue filter that came with your avia disc to setup the TV using the anthem's generated Color bars. I use DVE, so not sure about Avia, but I'm sure they explain SMPTE color bars (and the anthem manual does a good job of explaining them).
> 
> 
> Once you've got the TV setup with the anthem generated bars, then you can fine tune your DVD player by playing the avia disc and using the brightness/contrast/color control settings in the anthem's video Picture menu.



Thanks, it is the DVE disk I have as well, not the Avia. I don't know how to use the color bars that the Anthem generates. I didn't know I could use the DVE color filter with it. An explanation would be appreciated.


----------



## PooperScooper

There's a whole forum at AVS dedicated to display calibration. The test patterns on the D2 are very limited. There's also some AVS user compiled test discs you can download for free or at very a reasonable price.


larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12483819
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I'm trying to set up the video settings properly and I'm not quite sure where to start. I just purchased this new set and I also have the Avia disk. Do I use the Avia disk and adjust the settings on the TV first and then tweak them using the Anthem?



Check out the "Video Calibration for Non-ISF Techs" post linked in the collection of links in the first post of this thread. It will walk you through the steps.


The short answer is that you adjust the settings in the TV first using the video test patterns generated internally in the Anthem. Then you use the Avia disk in your player to fine tune things by adjusting the Anthem's INPUT settings for that input.

--Bob


----------



## kjgarrison




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12477283
> 
> 
> I think folks are interested in what the "real" issue is, not what the test # is on a competing vendor test suite. If you go to Kris' site you'll see dozens of units which miss one or more reality based tests but still come with high recommendations. If you can explain what the problem actually is (what issue, what resolution input, what type of video, color space, etc.), how it impacts a *real world viewing*, then people may have a better recollection of either how it is fixed or moot. Continuing to rant about a synthetic test with no specifics is not getting you the specific answer OR how it may or not matter by virtue of other fixes, etc.



I never meant anything to come across as a rant. It was, and still is, a simple question. Everything else coming from me has been an attempted explanation of why I asked the question in the first place. The question was: Did the firmware upgrade to fix an apparent problem with HQV testing that was acknowledged to be needed, and was promised by Gennum around June 2007, also get supported by Anthem and come out? Yes or no?


If you need to know why I ask before you can answer, then fine. Here's why. We watch a lot of HD DTV, which, as I am sure many of you know, is pretty noisy and is either 720p or 1080i. I am looking for an AVR that will scale 720p, deinterlace 1080i, and add noise reduction to these *HD signals*. The "usual" AVR contenders (Onkyo, Denon, Yamaha, Integra, etc.) do not do that. Most of the VP's in the HDTV's do not do this very well. I was told the higher end Anthem products do it well.


As to "real world" performance, I don't feel confident that I am capable of knowing it when I see it. I don't want to draw conclusions based on subjective opinions. I need something objective; a test. A test that is available, widely used, accepted, and reproducible.


I have already stated that it makes me suspicious that a chip maker produces the test that is supposed to evaluate the quality of competitors' chips. If there is an alternative test, I would love to know about it. So would, I imagine, the HD equipment reviewers at every magazine that I have thus far read, given that they seem to alwasys use the HQV tests to evaluate video and film deinterlacing & processing (among other tests of course, but none other for deinterlacing that I have seen.)


Today I found an Anthem dealer around 100 miles from where I live, and he agreed to a demo which will include "real world" DTV, hi def DVD viewing, and of course he invited me to bring the test discs. I'm hopeful that I will be able to see some "real world" improvement in DTV image quality AND see crystal clear deinterlacing of 1080i by the Anthem.


Thank you.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjgarrison* /forum/post/12486533
> 
> 
> I never meant anything to come across as a rant. It was, and still is, a simple question. Everything else coming from me has been an attempted explanation of why I asked the question in the first place. The question was: Did the firmware upgrade to fix an apparent problem with HQV testing that was acknowledged to be needed, and was promised by Gennum around June 2007, also get supported by Anthem and come out? Yes or no?
> 
> 
> If you need to know why I ask before you can answer, then fine. Here's why. We watch a lot of HD DTV, which, as I am sure many of you know, is pretty noisy and is either 720p or 1080i. I am looking for an AVR that will scale 720p, deinterlace 1080i, and add noise reduction to these *HD signals*. The "usual" AVR contenders (Onkyo, Denon, Yamaha, Integra, etc.) do not do that. Most of the VP's in the HDTV's do not do this very well. I was told the higher end Anthem products do it well.
> 
> 
> As to "real world" performance, I don't feel confident that I am capable of knowing it when I see it. I don't want to draw conclusions based on subjective opinions. I need something objective; a test. A test that is available, widely used, accepted, and reproducible.
> 
> 
> I have already stated that it makes me suspicious that a chip maker produces the test that is supposed to evaluate the quality of competitors' chips. If there is an alternative test, I would love to know about it. So would, I imagine, the HD equipment reviewers at every magazine that I have thus far read, given that they seem to alwasys use the HQV tests to evaluate video and film deinterlacing & processing (among other tests of course, but none other for deinterlacing that I have seen.)
> 
> 
> Today I found an Anthem dealer around 100 miles from where I live, and he agreed to a demo which will include "real world" DTV, hi def DVD viewing, and of course he invited me to bring the test discs. I'm hopeful that I will be able to see some "real world" improvement in DTV image quality AND see crystal clear deinterlacing of 1080i by the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Thank you.



No one is asking asking you to explain why you are asking, they are asking for specifics on the issue.


1) What is the test that supposedly failed?


2) What are the symptoms?


3) What are the video inputs caysing the issue?


Vaguely referring to a vague test with a vague date and vague fix is not helping you get an answer.


If you WANT answers you need to ask COMPLETE questions. Sometime ago some test maybe some fix is UNSATISFACTORY. You are wasting EVERYONE's time including YOURS.


Issue, dates, inputs, anomalies. No one here tracks other vendor tests and if you want an answer there is no way to answer without more info.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjgarrison* /forum/post/12486533
> 
> 
> 
> As to "real world" performance, I don't feel confident that I am capable of knowing it when I see it.
> 
> 
> Thank you.



It is very possible that you will never see it period.


All of us Anthem Owners are very happy with both the

VIDEO and AUDIO quality of our D2 or AVM50.


I sold a DVDO VP-50 Video Processor which passed every

video test. I sold my Lexicon MC-12b Pre/Pro. I replaced

both of those top-end units with a D2 and have never been

more happy. I'm using a Sony 1080p PJ on a 156" screen.

So if there is something NOT NICE TO SEE - I would see it.


In the Real World of Viewing - it is Nirvana.


I use to build racing engines. We always Dyno Tested each

engine. A lot of race car drivers would do what we call
*"RACE THE DYNO SHEET"*


The Race Driver thought if it made more HP on the Dyno

That it was better. In the real world on a race track - it might

have been a total dog.


JUDGE FOR YOURSELF and TEST Discs from any source does

not necessarily reflect your Real World Viewing.


Like Tim says - Don't worry about some obscure test or corner

case that you would not see in Real World Viewing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I recall the issue with the HD HQV test he is talking about. It was a particular pattern of images with a particular cadence that caused the Gennum processor to not pick up on the cadence quickly enough (or something like that).


One of the posters here wrote to the Gennum folks who responded that they had seen the result with the new test disc, that they didn't believe that particular test was relevant to how the Gennum processor would respond to real world imaging which happened to be presented at that cadence (since it was critically dependent upon the images used in that test), but that they had determined that a relatively minor change in the settings for their current stuff would make the Gennum pass that specific test without doing harm to its other, more normal, processing. And that they were going to alert their OEMs to roll that setting change into their next product updates.


The question is whether Anthem has done so.


Again, the word from the Gennum folks was that this was not a change that would have any benefit except making sure the processor passed this specific test -- to avoid confusing folks who happened to run that test as to whether there was a problem they should worry about.


The test in question on that disc is detailed in a set of posts in this thread. I don't have the time right now to go search for it.


If anyone here with the latest Anthem software installed also happens to have that HD HQV test disc, it would be easy enough to run that test (once someone finds the posts here) and report back. But even if it DOESN'T pass yet, I'm comfortable that the Gennum people have correctly presented the situation -- i.e., it is nothing to worry about except for bragging rights regarding being able to play those constructed test sequences without failures, faults or funnies. Imaging/processing quality in normal use with real world content is not, apparently, at issue.

--Bob


----------



## kjgarrison




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Melgon* /forum/post/10819148
> 
> 
> Here is the answer I received from Gennum:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for bringing this issue to our attention. Conveniently, we have
> 
> just received copies of the Silicon Optix HQV HD Benchmark disc and have
> 
> been able to confirm your findings - i.e. VXP not locking to the 3:2 cadence
> 
> demonstrated in the "Film Resolution Loss Test".
> 
> 
> By the way I must add, and hope you agree, that VXP has no problem
> 
> locking to the "Film Resolution Loss Test - Stadium" sequence. This leads to a
> 
> point I would like to make which is when developing and optimising VXP we
> 
> have focused on the use of "real" content rather than test patterns that may
> 
> not necessarily be representative of the real world.
> 
> 
> One can always create a test pattern or sequence which can be
> 
> demonstrated to break someone else's processing! Having said that, due to the power
> 
> and flexibility (and feedback from users such as you!) we are able to further optimise
> 
> VXP to ensure sequences such as this one can be correctly processed without compromise to any other processing.
> 
> 
> I am happy to inform you that we have been able to do just that and
> 
> have found more optimal default settings for our film cadence detection.
> 
> 
> We will be making our customers aware of these new settings and also
> 
> making these the default in future releases of VXP firmware.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/10819305
> 
> 
> Wow, that's good news, and hopefully Anthem will adjust accordingly, as long as it doesn't throw anything else out whack.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/10819430
> 
> 
> Yep. I wonder how long it will take to actually see the end result of this?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12488724
> 
> 
> I recall the issue with the HD HQV test he is talking about. It was a particular pattern of images with a particular cadence that caused the Gennum processor to not pick up on the cadence quickly enough (or something like that).
> 
> 
> One of the posters here wrote to the Gennum folks who responded that they had seen the result with the new test disc, that they didn't believe that particular test was relevant to how the Gennum processor would respond to real world imaging which happened to be presented at that cadence (since it was critically dependent upon the images used in that test), but that they had determined that a relatively minor change in the settings for their current stuff would make the Gennum pass that specific test without doing harm to its other, more normal, processing. And that they were going to alert their OEMs to roll that setting change into their next product updates.
> 
> 
> The question is whether Anthem has done so.
> 
> 
> Again, the word from the Gennum folks was that this was not a change that would have any benefit except making sure the processor passed this specific test -- to avoid confusing folks who happened to run that test as to whether there was a problem they should worry about.
> 
> 
> The test in question on that disc is detailed in a set of posts in this thread. I don't have the time right now to go search for it.
> 
> 
> If anyone here with the latest Anthem software installed also happens to have that HD HQV test disc, it would be easy enough to run that test (once someone finds the posts here) and report back. But even if it DOESN'T pass yet, I'm comfortable that the Gennum people have correctly presented the situation -- i.e., it is nothing to worry about except for bragging rights regarding being able to play those constructed test sequences without failures, faults or funnies. Imaging/processing quality in normal use with real world content is not, apparently, at issue.
> 
> --Bob



Bob (and everybody else) I am truly sorry my questions were so vague. I should have included the posts in the first place. This thread is overwhelming. I guess I just assumed that all the avid owners that post here would be aware of every issue. This was unreasonable and posting as I did was inconsiderate. Above are the posts that were the basis for my question. I found these by searching, and then I searched to see if the answer had already been posted, so I am not completely lazy and inconsiderate.


Now I'm hoping that when I do become an ANTHEM OWNER I won't have to come back under a new name


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There ya go. Now we just need someone who already has the latest Anthem software installed (V1.21x) AND has a copy of the HD version of the HQV test disc, to run that test and report back.


Any takers?

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc

Anyone using RS-232 to control their D2?


I'm overwhelmed by the shear number of commands available. I've never seen anything like it. About 70 pages worth. In a league of its own.


Wondering about real world experience. Any connectivity issues, reliability, etc? Hints?


It will be used when my theater is finished with an AMX Netlinx system. Until then, I want to test drive it with my PC.


----------



## barhoram

I'm using RS-232 control on my D2. I started out with a PC based system using Girder and Netrmote. I've since switched over to an RTI system. The RS-232 control has been rock solid. As for the number of commands, you are correct...they are a bit overwhelming. I would suggest focusing on just the Zone1 commands first on the list. Most of the commands are repeated in the list for Zone2 and Zone3.


One Cool thing to look for is the command that allows you to write custom text on the D2's OSD. You can trigger it to popup a message like "Garage Door Open" or "Motion on West side of House" using RS-232. It shows up just like the volume and sound info does on the screen. It's pretty cool. I had girder showing inside and otuside temeratues on the OSD with a press of a certain button....and a motion detector message if my daughter were to open her door upstairs....when were are in the theater, and she should be in bed sleeping


----------



## zzzzdoc

I'll have to look into Girder and Netrmote. I've not heard of them.


Not really overwhelmed by the amount of commands. Just impressed.


Now just have to make sure I can get my PC to communicate with the Anthem. It worked for firmware, so I'm not terribly concerned. Just need to get the syntax correct.


----------



## buyrightlow

Not really a reply-new question. I own the Anthem AVM 50 and matching amp, plus a 2 channel Onkyo for rears and am now building a new ht room with the new Marantz VP 15S1 and Vienna Accoustics Waltz, Maestro and mozart grands, coupled with a JL Audio Fathom f112 sub and an Infinity sub. Screen is 96" x 54" Vutec. My dealer happens to have a new open box D2 with a wide face where the buyer preferred narrow. I can trade in my AVM 50 for the D2 for an extra $1650. Is it worth it?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/12497811
> 
> 
> Not really a reply-new question. I own the Anthem AVM 50 and matching amp, plus a 2 channel Onkyo for rears and am now building a new ht room with the new Marantz VP 15S1 and Vienna Accoustics Waltz, Maestro and mozart grands, coupled with a JL Audio Fathom f112 sub and an Infinity sub. Screen is 96" x 54" Vutec. My dealer happens to have a new open box D2 with a wide face where the buyer preferred narrow. I can trade in my AVM 50 for the D2 for an extra $1650. Is it worth it?



I'd say yes, if for no other reason than it looks like the room EQ software for the D2 is just about to ship (for roughly $300 more including the mic). It's a fair price, particularly if it is treated as a "new" unit, and you are getting a new warranty.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If anyone gets one of the new Samsung BD-UP5000 combo HD-DVD & Blu-Ray players (that just started shipping) for use with an AVM-50 or D2 I'd be interested in reading your results.


It appears that the unit is going to need a firmware upgrade -- which is supposed to be coming "real soon now" -- for Blu-Ray Player Profile 1.1 compliance, for internally decoding Dolby TrueHD to more than 2 channels on HDMI PCM output, and for internally decoding DTS-HD MA at all on HDMI PCM output.


However, it also appears that all of this stuff is promised, which could make this a very interesting player. If it works.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12491846
> 
> 
> I'm using RS-232 control on my D2. I started out with a PC based system using Girder and Netrmote. I've since switched over to an RTI system. The RS-232 control has been rock solid. As for the number of commands, you are correct...they are a bit overwhelming. I would suggest focusing on just the Zone1 commands first on the list. Most of the commands are repeated in the list for Zone2 and Zone3.
> 
> 
> One Cool thing to look for is the command that allows you to write custom text on the D2's OSD. You can trigger it to popup a message like "Garage Door Open" or "Motion on West side of House" using RS-232. It shows up just like the volume and sound info does on the screen. It's pretty cool. I had girder showing inside and otuside temeratues on the OSD with a press of a certain button....and a motion detector message if my daughter were to open her door upstairs....when were are in the theater, and she should be in bed sleeping



Yow! This looks very cool. Can you post a link to the RTI system or it's name? I'd love to know much more, but it will go off topic in this thread







- Unless I keep it really specific to Anthem RS-232 details...










I had asked Nick about switching my surround speakers from dipole to monopole via a trigger when I went from movie DVD to music DVD (i.e. concert video). He said it would require RS-232 control. If I could also do other stuff as well, it might be worth putting time and money into (famous last words).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12499047
> 
> 
> If anyone gets one of the new Samsung BD-UP5000 combo HD-DVD & Blu-Ray players (that just started shipping) for use with an AVM-50 or D2 I'd be interested in reading your results.
> 
> 
> It appears that the unit is going to need a firmware upgrade -- which is supposed to be coming "real soon now" -- for Blu-Ray Player Profile 1.1 compliance, for internally decoding Dolby TrueHD to more than 2 channels on HDMI PCM output, and for internally decoding DTS-HD MA at all on HDMI PCM output.
> 
> 
> However, it also appears that all of this stuff is promised, which could make this a very interesting player. If it works.
> 
> --Bob


*BOB* - I assume you are following * THIS THREAD *


I had a 5000 on order a LONG time back. I probably would

have had it by now. But once Samsung Published the Manual

online - I canceled my ORDER.


----------



## dweltman

I have kind of a strange ground loop problem. If I unplug my Scientific Atlanta cable box from the outlet, the hum disappears. But if I disconnect the cable input to the SA box, that does not get rid of the hum. I went to Cablevision today and swapped the cable box for a new SA4250HD, but no change.


I would have thought that if my hum was coming from the cable, disconnecting the cable would get rid of it?


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12499294
> 
> *BOB* - I assume you are following * THIS THREAD *
> 
> 
> I had a 5000 on order a LONG time back. I probably would
> 
> have had it by now. But once Samsung Published the Manual
> 
> online - I canceled my ORDER.




And they cancelled the 2400. I just gave up and bought a 1400. The format wars can go on without me.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12491846
> 
> 
> One Cool thing to look for is the command that allows you to write custom text on the D2's OSD. You can trigger it to popup a message like "Garage Door Open" or "Motion on West side of House" using RS-232. It shows up just like the volume and sound info does on the screen. It's pretty cool. I had girder showing inside and otuside temeratues on the OSD with a press of a certain button....and a motion detector message if my daughter were to open her door upstairs....when were are in the theater, and she should be in bed sleeping



Those are the P1Z commands?

Would the syntax be:

P1Z 1GarageDoorOpen


I'm confused about how to get two line entries. Do you need to send a second command with "P1Z 2CloseItDummy", or is there some way to do it with commas for both zones on one line?


Also, are spaces allowed in the message. Can it be "Garage Door Open" or does it have to be "GarageDoorOpen"?


Anyone played around with an AMX or Crestron using variables to get caller ID on the OSD?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/12499537
> 
> 
> I have kind of a strange ground loop problem. If I unplug my Scientific Atlanta cable box from the outlet, the hum disappears. But if I disconnect the cable input to the SA box, that does not get rid of the hum. I went to Cablevision today and swapped the cable box for a new SA4250HD, but no change.
> 
> 
> I would have thought that if my hum was coming from the cable, disconnecting the cable would get rid of it?



Disconnecting the cable feed line from the wall to your box eliminates the cable feed as the source.


If you still have hum it is coming from some other source.


It may be EXITING the circuit via the power line of your cable box -- which would explain why it goes away if you pull that plug.


There is a Hum FAQ sticky in the Audio Theory forum here that may help.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12499294
> 
> *BOB* - I assume you are following * THIS THREAD *
> 
> 
> I had a 5000 on order a LONG time back. I probably would
> 
> have had it by now. But once Samsung Published the Manual
> 
> online - I canceled my ORDER.



Yes I've seen that thread, but I trust the posters here to test/describe things better -- for the stuff that matters to us.


I've not seen any ETA on the supposed firmware upgrade. The player is of no interest to me unless the profile 1.1, TrueHD and DTS-HD MA over HDMI PCM all work, which certainly won't be the case out of the box.

--Bob


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/12499537
> 
> 
> I have kind of a strange ground loop problem. If I unplug my Scientific Atlanta cable box from the outlet, the hum disappears. But if I disconnect the cable input to the SA box, that does not get rid of the hum. I went to Cablevision today and swapped the cable box for a new SA4250HD, but no change.
> 
> 
> I would have thought that if my hum was coming from the cable, disconnecting the cable would get rid of it?



Are you hearing the hum from the SA box itself, or through your speakers? The box has a hard drive in it that is always on, and it definitely makes a noticeable hum from the machine (though in this case, not from the speakers)


----------



## barhoram

zzzzdoc,


Yes, you can have spaces in the displayed text. Howver, you have an extra space in there after z1. It should be like this "P1z1Bass Shakers: On"


As far as I can tell, you are correct on the two lines. I back to back commands (like a macro) for the first and second line of text. Usually, they both pop up at the same time, but every once in a while there is a short delay.


Since the entrace to my theater is behind the seats, it's real easy to get "snuck up on". I put a motion sensor in the lobby, and now I get a quick pop up if somoene is coming in the theater while I'm blasting a movie. Keeps my wife from scaring the crap out of me


----------



## Kensmith48

I rec'd my D2 just before Thanksgiving and I finally got around to hooking it up (I've been busy lately) this week. After I fit it in my audio rack and finished building some new audio/video cables I hooked everything up and went through the setup menus for the D2.

This is where the problem begins. I have an OTA Ant. hooked up to a Samsung 260 HD tuner using the tv/cable in from the ant. and the tv/cable out to the tv. I'm using the component Out from the Samsung 260 to the D2's #1 component In. Then from the D2's Main component Output to the tv's #1 Input. When I put the tv input to #1 I get multiple screens. The picture repeats itself across the screen 3-4 times. If I don't use the D2 and go directly to the tv from the Samsung tuner the picture is fine.

I should say that the tv is a rptv (Pioneer 710) and I have a Channel Master amplifier for the ant.


I'm going crazy trying to fix this ---I need the experts help on this one.

TIA,

Ken


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/12500313
> 
> 
> I rec'd my D2 just before Thanksgiving and I finally got around to hooking it up (I've been busy lately) this week. After I fit it in my audio rack and finished building some new audio/video cables I hooked everything up and went through the setup menus for the D2.
> 
> This is where the problem begins. I have an OTA Ant. hooked up to a Samsung 260 HD tuner using the tv/cable in from the ant. and the tv/cable out to the tv. I'm using the component Out from the Samsung 260 to the D2's #1 component In. Then from the D2's Main component Output to the tv's #1 Input. When I put the tv input to #1 I get multiple screens. The picture repeats itself across the screen 3-4 times. If I don't use the D2 and go directly to the tv from the Samsung tuner the picture is fine.
> 
> I should say that the tv is a rptv (Pioneer 710) and I have a Channel Master amplifier for the ant.
> 
> 
> I'm going crazy trying to fix this ---I need the experts help on this one.
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Ken




The pro710 won't accept 720p, try 1080i output via video configuration in the setup menu.


----------



## Kensmith48

abc999,

That did the trick. I set it at 1920/1080i/60 and everything worked fine. Thanks.


After some tweaking I'm dissappointed in the picture though. DVD's only show as 480p because of macrovision and tv shows at 1080i don't appear to be vastly superior to the $180.00 hd tuner. Is there something that I'm missing? It has to get better than this.


The sound is the real winner. I spent so much time on the video that I didn't even get a chance to tweak the sound. It's only coming from the fronts & center and sounds amazing. I can't wait to get the surrounds and sub set up tomorrow.


Any advice is welcome.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/12501483
> 
> 
> abc999,
> 
> That did the trick. I set it at 1920/1080i/60 and everything worked fine. Thanks.
> 
> 
> After some tweaking I'm dissappointed in the picture though. DVD's only show as 480p because of macrovision and tv shows at 1080i don't appear to be vastly superior to the $180.00 hd tuner. Is there something that I'm missing? It has to get better than this.
> 
> 
> The sound is the real winner. I spent so much time on the video that I didn't even get a chance to tweak the sound. It's only coming from the fronts & center and sounds amazing. I can't wait to get the surrounds and sub set up tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Any advice is welcome.



Try using an HDMI connection for the DVD if you can - especially one of the players that will send 480i over HDMI (I use an Oppo 970). This will allow you to get past the Macrovision limitation. You WILL notice a difference then.


With the HDTV signal, the Samsung is quite good (I have the same OTA tuner), and if the source was good, then there is not a lot for the D2 to do other than deliver the signal pristinely.


That said, there are a lot of little tweaks you can do that all combined will make for a noticeably better picture. First thing you should do is calibrate your display and D2. There are links in the first post for this. I myself would recommend an ISF calibration if you aren't pretty technical and DIY.


I agree the sound is stellar!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/12501483
> 
> 
> abc999,
> 
> That did the trick. I set it at 1920/1080i/60 and everything worked fine. Thanks.
> 
> 
> After some tweaking I'm dissappointed in the picture though. DVD's only show as 480p because of macrovision and tv shows at 1080i don't appear to be vastly superior to the $180.00 hd tuner. Is there something that I'm missing? It has to get better than this.
> 
> 
> The sound is the real winner. I spent so much time on the video that I didn't even get a chance to tweak the sound. It's only coming from the fronts & center and sounds amazing. I can't wait to get the surrounds and sub set up tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Any advice is welcome.



Ken, you need to be patient with your video setup and calibration. It takes a while to get a feel for what's going on. But it is definitely worth the effort.


With modern digital video setups, the difference between getting the settings just right and "nearly right" may very will be a lot greater than you are used to with your earlier stuff.


Take a look at the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post you will find in the collection of links in the first post of this thread for suggestions.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

The HDMI connection is not going to happen since the Pioneer 710 rptv and the Denon 3800 dvd player don't have it. The Pioneer was ISF calibrated by David Abrams approx. 4-5 yrs. ago but it still has a very good picture. I only use the set for dvd's (90%) and tv viewing (5-10%).

Thanks for the suggestions. I see there is alot of tweaking to do from the video section of the manual. Hope I can get something worked out for a better picture. The wife is trying to justify the cost.


I'm asking from memory of the manual, but when it says component can be converted to hdmi, what exactly does this mean and how is it done?


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12500285
> 
> 
> zzzzdoc,
> 
> 
> Yes, you can have spaces in the displayed text. Howver, you have an extra space in there after z1. It should be like this "P1z1Bass Shakers: On"
> 
> 
> As far as I can tell, you are correct on the two lines. I back to back commands (like a macro) for the first and second line of text. Usually, they both pop up at the same time, but every once in a while there is a short delay.
> 
> 
> Since the entrace to my theater is behind the seats, it's real easy to get "snuck up on". I put a motion sensor in the lobby, and now I get a quick pop up if somoene is coming in the theater while I'm blasting a movie. Keeps my wife from scaring the crap out of me



Oh, I'm going to have fun with this. Doorbell and caller ID come to mind (we'll see if that's possible.)


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12500285
> 
> 
> Since the entrace to my theater is behind the seats, it's real easy to get "snuck up on". I put a motion sensor in the lobby, and now I get a quick pop up if somoene is coming in the theater while I'm blasting a movie. Keeps my wife from scaring the crap out of me



A motion sensor-monitored trap door may help.










Seriously it never fails to have an entrance right at the climax to talk about some inane topic...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/12503320
> 
> 
> The HDMI connection is not going to happen since the Pioneer 710 rptv and the Denon 3800 dvd player don't have it. The Pioneer was ISF calibrated by David Abrams approx. 4-5 yrs. ago but it still has a very good picture. I only use the set for dvd's (90%) and tv viewing (5-10%).
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. I see there is alot of tweaking to do from the video section of the manual. Hope I can get something worked out for a better picture. The wife is trying to justify the cost.
> 
> 
> I'm asking from memory of the manual, but when it says component can be converted to hdmi, what exactly does this mean and how is it done?



The Anthem will take Component video input at up to 1080p/30 (1080i/60), do all the various sorts of video processing it offers, and output that on the HDMI output at up to 1080p/60. The display needs to be HDCP (copy protection) compliant, which should be a given with any HDMI display, but may not be the case if the display has only a DVI input.


The restriction to 480p output for Component video input that happens to be Macrovision protected, only applies if the Anthem's Component outputs are used. If the HDMI output is used the Anthem will scale such Macrovision protected input up to 1080p/60.


The Anthem can also "pass through" Component 1080p/60 to the Component outputs (but ONLY to the Component outputs) as an unprocessed video signal (merely switched from the selected input to the outputs).


Typically you would set SD Component video sources to send 480i to the Anthem. HD Component video sources should send 720p or 1080i/60 to the Anthem (according to the resolution present in the source content), unless the TV is capable of accepting a 1080p/24 video signal and displaying it at a refresh rate which is a multiple of 24 -- in which case sending Component 1080p/24 to the Anthem is also useful. 1080p/24 is less than 1080p/30, so a Component 1080p/24 signal can be processed to HDMI output.


See section 2.1 of the Manual.


-----------------------------------------------


The key factor in video quality is confirming that your TV is properly set to display the test patterns generated internally in the Anthem. Depending upon how your TV was originally set up, this may just work without change. However if the TV's input settings were set to specifically match your source devices at the time (which is one of the two approaches to video calibration), those settings may not be optimized to receiving video from the Anthem instead.


Doing that, along with the other steps described in that "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post, should result in a very pleasing picture.


If this is the first time you have attempted video calibration on your own, be aware that it is a skill that takes some time to acquire. Also, much of this video processing stuff has to do with how "problem content" gets handled. So for example, if you are not familiar with what de-interlacing failures look like, it may not jump out at you that the Anthem doesn't have any of them, because you not only need to have an eye for when things go wrong, but you also have to be playing content that triggers it.


Over the course of this thread we have had many posters in your situation -- where their early attempts at video setup didn't produce the excellent results they were hoping for. I can only think of a scant few cases where those posters didn't come back a while later and say, "I spent some more time on it, and by golly it now looks fantastic." So take heart. It is worth the effort.

--Bob


----------



## dseliger

Does anyone know if there is a way to output a second audio source along with your primary audio/video source?


I'm talking only the audio...


We are watching movies and running the Rifftrax along with them at the same time (if you dont know what these are do a google search, its kind of like MSTIII...you'll get a good laugh i promise) , it would be nice to get the Rifftrax audio to come out my main speakers along with the audio from the DVD.


Thanks for your help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/12506908
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if there is a way to output a second audio source along with your primary audio/video source?
> 
> 
> I'm talking only the audio...
> 
> 
> We are watching movies and running the Rifftrax along with them at the same time (if you dont know what these are do a google search, its kind of like MSTIII...you'll get a good laugh i promise) , it would be nice to get the Rifftrax audio to come out my main speakers along with the audio from the DVD.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help.



If you want to get the audio mixed so that BOTH audio sources come out of the main speakers at the same time, then no.


Here's what you CAN do:


You can select an alternate audio input to go along with any video input so long as the alternate audio is not coming from an HDMI input (this may have changed in the latest software, but in the V1.11 stuff you can only play HDMI audio input with video input from the SAME input -- which would of course also be on that same HDMI cable). See Simulcast in section 4.4.2 of the Manual. You will hear only the audio from the alternate input source -- no audio from the normal input source for that video input will be heard.


Or you can set up the Zone 2 path through the Anthem to be independent of the Main path -- i.e., you can select its input separately from what you select for the Main path. Then the Zone 2 audio outputs would carry the audio from the source you have selected for Zone 2 -- which you would amplify and send to an additional pair of speakers set up in the same room. In such case (i.e., when you are not "Copying" the Main path to Zone 2, the audio inputs for the source intended for Zone 2 must be via traditional, RCA, analog stereo connection (i.e., you can't send digital audio input to Zone 2 in this case). You will hear audio from your normal source on the Main path (to your normal speakers) as well as audio from the alternate source on the Zone 2 path (to your pair of added speakers).


EDITED TO ADD: With that second setup (alternate audio going through Zone 2), you may be tempted to use a "Y" connector to feed the Main and Zone 2 audio outputs together into your amp -- so that the audio from both will come out your main speakers. DO NOT DO THIS!


The reason is that in addition to connecting the two outputs to the input of your amp, you are ALSO connecting them TO EACH OTHER. Which means you are pushing voltage back INTO the Anthem's outputs. Not a good thing.


If you actually want to mix two audio streams you need an audio mixer that, among other things, will buffer one input from the other input.

--Bob


----------



## dseliger

Thanks Bob, i was hoping it would mix them but i guess not...it doesnt replace the audio track it requires both unfortunately.


I'll just buy a cheap set of speakers and set up Zone2, that should work great as well.


Thanks again


----------



## bluemark81

What output setting should I be using on the Anthem? 4:2:2?? Display is 1080p plasma.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12508573
> 
> 
> What output setting should I be using on the Anthem? 4:2:2?? Display is 1080p plasma.



I recommend you start with 4:4:4 on an HDMI display. Get that as good as you can get it and spend some time getting familiar with how it looks.


Then experiment with 4:2:2 and see if you can do better. It will depend largely on what your TV does with 4:2:2.


Check out the "Terminology and Technology / Data Format" collection of links in the first post of this thread to demystify this a bit.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12509628
> 
> 
> I recommend you start with 4:4:4 on an HDMI display. Get that as good as you can get it and spend some time getting familiar with how it looks.
> 
> 
> Then experiment with 4:2:2 and see if you can do better. It will depend largely on what your TV does with 4:2:2.
> 
> 
> Check out the "Terminology and Technology / Data Format" collection of links in the first post of this thread to demystify this a bit.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Yes, I have been trying to follow the setup procedure you've laid out there. I am kind of stuck on a couple of things.


1. When I start the TV calibration, where should the Anthems brightness/contrast/color and tint be?


2. My TV (Panasonic TH58PZ700) does not have a contrast setting. It does have a setting called "picture", so I'm thinking this may be in place of contrast?


3. I followed yours and Anthems instructions on using the blue filter to adjust color and tint which was quite easily done, but I'm unclear on how to use the green and red filters. Anthems manual shows the "B's" and "C's" with their corresponding bars that are to match when using the blue filter, but what bars are to match when using the green and red filters?


4. I didn't quite follow your instructions for color temp. Should it be set on warm, normal or cool?


That's it for now, but I'm sure I will have additional questions as I proceed.


Thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12509813
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Yes, I have been trying to follow the setup procedure you've laid out there. I am kind of stuck on a couple of things.
> 
> 
> 1. When I start the TV calibration, where should the Anthems brightness/contrast/color and tint be?
> 
> 
> 2. My TV (Panasonic TH58PZ700) does not have a contrast setting. It does have a setting called "picture", so I'm thinking this may be in place of contrast?
> 
> 
> 3. I followed yours and Anthems instructions on using the blue filter to adjust color and tint which was quite easily done, but I'm unclear on how to use the green and red filters. Anthems manual shows the "B's" and "C's" with their corresponding bars that are to match when using the blue filter, but what bars are to match when using the green and red filters?
> 
> 
> 4. I didn't quite follow your instructions for color temp. Should it be set on warm, normal or cool?
> 
> 
> That's it for now, but I'm sure I will have additional questions as I proceed.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



When you are setting up the TV's controls to best display the Anthem's internally generated test patterns, it doesn't matter where you have the Video Source Adjust / Picture controls set for any input. Those controls only affect input video. The Anthem's internally generated test patterns are generated independent of that -- think of them as an alternate video source that has no such controls.


However it doesn't hurt to take this opportunity to set them to their default positions since that's where you will want to start when you finish setting up your TV's controls and now want to refine the video for each source by adjusting these controls that alter the INPUT video into the Anthem from each source.


-------------------------------------


Your TV will have two controls that handle the Brightness and Contrast function. Contrast might be labeled Picture for no particularly good reason. Brightness sets the Black levels (Memory Aid: "Brightness" and "Black" both begin with a "B") -- the floor of the visible video image. Contrast or Picture on the other hand sets the "range" from there to the brightest parts of the picture -- essentially setting the White levels.


These two controls interact since, obviously, if you change the floor (dark end) for a given range then the top end (bright end) must also move with it, but less obviously because when you change the "range" (Picture or Contrast control) it actually moves BOTH ends -- closer together if you are setting a smaller value and farther apart if you are setting a larger value. However the bright end "moves more", so Brightness dominates the Blacks setting while Contrast/Picture dominates the Whites setting. In any event, you need to play with the two controls together to get the best pair of settings.


----------------------------------------


The pair of color bars you use when adjusting the Color control for best Red are "Red & White". Why? Because you are looking at how much Red is going in to making White. Just as you did with the Blue filter and "Blue & White".


Similarly the pair of color bars you use when adjusting the Color control for best Green are "Green & White".


If your color decoder and display primaries are perfect in your TV, and if the TV is not futzing with the imaging as for "automatic flesh tone correction" or similar nonsense, adjusting for a perfect match of "Blue & White" when viewing through the Blue gelatin filter will ALSO, quite automatically, result in a perfect match for "Red & White" when viewed through the Red filter and for "Green & White" when viewed through the Green filter.


In the real world this stuff is seldom perfect (Color setting errors in Red or Green when Blue is perfect are called Red or Green "push" or "depression), and so you may get better results by using the best compromise Color setting which is pretty close for all three.


[NOTE: In older TVs, and even some cheap new TVs, the color errors are severe because "red push" has been engineered into the TV to make its picture more eye catching in garish store lighting and because the "color temperature" of the display has been set to produce "whites" which have a blueish cast (color temperature too "cool", which, confusingly, corresponds to a higher temperature number) -- which fools the eye into thinking the set produces a brighter image. And the built in, "red push" is then necessary to keep people's flesh tones from looking too ghastly and corpse-like. In such TVs you can't get anywhere near a decent result by trying for a compromise setting. So what you do is set Color and Tint for the Blue filter (just Blue) and then reduce Color (leaving Tint alone) until things look more natural and less garish. This is the best you can do with such TVs unless there is a way to get into their service menus and correct the designed in imaging flaws.]


Similar, when adjusting Tint, there will be a pair, each, of the secondary color bars that will match or be close to matching. Nobody can remember the names of these secondary colors, so just do this. Adjust Color and Tint with the Blue filter as described in the Anthem manual.


Then pick up the red filter and see which pair of secondary colors are the closest match (remembering that the primary colors of Red and White will ALSO be closely matched). Those are the two secondary colors you will be adjusting if you further adjust Tint while viewing through Red. Then do the same with Green.


It's not that tough to see which pair to use when you actually try it because the other color bars will be way off when viewed through a filter that is "wrong" for them.


Again, a compromise setting of Tint that is not perfect with any color filter, but pretty close for all three, seems to work best in my experience.


And as with Brightness and Contrast/Picture, the Color and Tint controls interact. It takes some time to find the best pair of settings for the best compromise of Color and Tint. I suggest you jot down the setting pairs that appear close. You will end up with a small number of pairs that might work -- perhaps 4 to 8 pairs of Color and Tint differing by 1 or 2 levels in each.


Then just work through each of those remaining pairings -- looking through all 3 filters one at a time for each pairing, and see which pairing seems to give you the best compromise. Keep eliminating candidates until you are left with just one -- your winner.


The eye seems to tolerate errors in Red more than in Blue or Green. So if you can't get equally close in all three, let the errors be mostly in the Red.


-------------------------------------------------------------


Only the marketing people for your TV know what they mean by "Warm" "Normal" or "Cool" color temperature.


If you find a setting described on screen or in the manual that says "SMPTE Standard" or "6,500K" then that's the one you want.


If you can't find such a description, then odds are the "Warm" setting is the one you want.


To know for sure you will need an optical color sensor and computer software that knows how to display the color temperature it is seeing when you display "white" on the TV.

--Bob


----------



## funlvr1965

OK so I finally decided to install the latest update sent to me by Amrit over at Anthem(1.21d). I wemt to Radio Shack and bought a regular 9 pin serial cable attached it to my laptop and to the Anthem D1-HD, first I bring up the editor to retrieve the settings from my processor I hit select the get button under settings and all it says retrieving data but nothing else ever happens it just keeps saying that so what am I doing wrong? editor is ver 1.20


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/12510355
> 
> 
> OK so I finally decided to install the latest update sent to me by Amrit over at Anthem(1.21d). I wemt to Radio Shack and bought a regular 9 pin serial cable attached it to my laptop and to the Anthem D1-HD, first I bring up the editor to retrieve the settings from my processor I hit select the get button under settings and all it says retrieving data but nothing else ever happens it just keeps saying that so what am I doing wrong? editor is ver 1.20



At the time I installed 1.21d (approx 3 weeks ago), there was not a compatible editor that worked. Perhaps it is still a work in progress. 1.21d seems very stable. There have been no further HDMI handshake issues with the SONY BDP-S301, or Toshiba HD-A3 and each of those respective units current firmware.


Some handshake issues with the Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD, but that unit has had these forever; perhaps there will be a firmware update for the SA someday.


----------



## barhoram

funlover,


I experienced the same thing. Couldn't get the editor to communicate with my D1-HD. To save your settings, you have to save them internally in the Anthem, reset to original setting, upgrade firmware, then restore them from the Anthem menu.


----------



## Carlton Bale

Hello all. I'm looking to join the ranks of D2 ownership after my 10-year old Onkyo receiver self-destructed. I'm planning on purchasing used D2 for $5k. Is there anything I should look for or ask about? What is the difference between the rack-mount version and the standard version (I'll need to rack-mount it.) Thanks...


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/12511627
> 
> 
> Hello all. I'm looking to join the ranks of D2 ownership after my 10-year old Onkyo receiver self-destructed. I'm planning on purchasing used D2 for $5k. Is there anything I should look for or ask about? What is the difference between the rack-mount version and the standard version (I'll need to rack-mount it.) Thanks...



Anthem has No provisions to pass on the warranty to the second owner.

if you have a problem with the unit or upgrading you are on your own.

Anthem does go out of their way to provide you with the same information and service, though the second owner is responsible for the cost.


----------



## barhoram

Is it possible to drive 2 displays (one HDMI and one component) at 2 different resolutions at the same time? My automation touchpanel accepts 480i/p over component to preview the video playing. I would like to have the D2 output 1080p to my front projector and also output 480i/p via Zone2 component (to the automation panel) for a video preview. I already have all of the sources connected with both HDMI and component. Is it possible to set up the second display configuration for 480i/p and specify Zone 2 follow that config? If not, is there any way to easily do this??


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/12512056
> 
> 
> Anthem has No provisions to pass on the warranty to the second owner.
> 
> if you have a problem with the unit or upgrading you are on your own.
> 
> Anthem does go out of their way to provide you with the same information and service, though the second owner is responsible for the cost.



Not quite correct. In the US, if the used unit is bought through an Anthem authorized dealer (i.e., the first owner trades in his Anthem for something at an authorized Anthem dealer, and the dealer then resells that used Anthem) then the remaining new unit warranty on the used Anthem transfers to the second owner. Presumably the Anthem authorized dealer has to do something with Anthem to get this recorded at their end.


But that's apparently the only way to transfer the warranty. Used Anthem purchases directly between owners or via a non-authorized dealer result in the warranty terminating.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12513280
> 
> 
> Is it possible to drive 2 displays (one HDMI and one component) at 2 different resolutions at the same time? My automation touchpanel accepts 480i/p over component to preview the video playing. I would like to have the D2 output 1080p to my front projector and also output 480i/p via Zone2 component (to the automation panel) for a video preview. I already have all of the sources connected with both HDMI and component. Is it possible to set up the second display configuration for 480i/p and specify Zone 2 follow that config? If not, is there any way to easily do this??



The Anthem has only one video processor so you can't set up two different styles of video processing (e.g., two different scaler output resolutions) at the same time. The second "Video Output" configuration available in the latest software does not change that.


However you CAN set the Zone 2 Component outputs to be "unprocessed", which means they just pass through what comes from the source.


To do this you will need to hook up Component INPUT from each source of interest (since conversion of any other type of input to Component output is a type of "processing). If you also want to use HDMI from that source then you will need to verify that the source allows both its HDMI and Component output jacks to be live at the same time.


Set up this way, the Zone 2 Component outputs will put out whatever is coming in on the selected Component input. You can not set them to convert sources to 480i or 480p for example. Whatever comes in will be switched to the output unmodified.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/12511627
> 
> 
> Hello all. I'm looking to join the ranks of D2 ownership after my 10-year old Onkyo receiver self-destructed. I'm planning on purchasing used D2 for $5k. Is there anything I should look for or ask about? What is the difference between the rack-mount version and the standard version (I'll need to rack-mount it.) Thanks...



The front plate of the standard version has extensions to either side that can be used as handles and also insure some spacing between the sides of the unit and the sides of the cabinet. The rack mount version replaces these "wings" with different wings that have mounting bolt holes in them and which aren't curved.


That's the only difference.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz

Just about ready to pull the trigger on a new 1080p projector and wondering if the RS-1 is the projector of choice for the D2. Pocket book will not allow for the RS-2. Any words of wisdom?


Thanks


John


----------



## funlvr1965

Yes John, if lack of color accuracy and color managment system in a projector bother you dont expect the D2 to perform miracles, it didnt for me and in the end I returned the JVC, best of luck


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/12519063
> 
> 
> Yes John, if lack of color accuracy and color managment system in a projector bother you dont expect the D2 to perform miracles, it didnt for me and in the end I returned the JVC, best of luck



What did you purchase instead?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12519108
> 
> 
> What did you purchase instead?



A very dim Marantz!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12518901
> 
> 
> Just about ready to pull the trigger on a new 1080p projector and wondering if the RS-1 is the projector of choice for the D2. Pocket book will not allow for the RS-2. Any words of wisdom?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



Why not look at the VPL-VW60?


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12519213
> 
> 
> A very dim Marantz!



What do you own Rob?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12519448
> 
> 
> What do you own Rob?



JVC RS1.


And yes, I am quite happy with it.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12519448
> 
> 
> What do you own Rob?



The January 2008 Home Theater Magazine has the

VPL-VW60 on the Cover and does a complete review

of it and they think it is better than either of the

JVC models. Not by a big margin - but since it is

a Next Gen unit - it should be improved.


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12519108
> 
> 
> What did you purchase instead?



I purchased a Marantz vp-11s1 and Benq W10000


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12519213
> 
> 
> A very dim Marantz!



Rob the Marantz never looked dim to me on my highpower in fact I had to run it in econo mode, if you want brighter you can try the Vp15-s1, next I might try one of the sim projectors, they are all good just different flavors


----------



## AnthemAVM

Any update on D2 room correction.


Michael


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/12519956
> 
> 
> Rob the Marantz never looked dim to me on my highpower in fact I had to run it in econo mode, if you want brighter you can try the Vp15-s1, next I might try one of the sim projectors, they are all good just different flavors



Well, I would hope it wouldn't look dim on a High Power screen!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12520464
> 
> 
> Any update on D2 room correction.
> 
> 
> Michael



I think Michael may be the one person who wants this as badly as I do!


The gang has to come over here before your place once the room correction is released!


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12518901
> 
> 
> Just about ready to pull the trigger on a new 1080p projector and wondering if the RS-1 is the projector of choice for the D2. Pocket book will not allow for the RS-2. Any words of wisdom?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> John



Not dissing the JVC, but you really should check out the +3K forum for discussion of Kris Deering's JVC review & Greg Rogers VW60,etc.

IMO, look at BENQ W10000 or the new W20000.

Great lens, color accurate and _killer_ tweak menus.

An ISF pro's dream.



> Quote:
> I think Michael may be the one person who wants this as badly as I do!



Rob, I have been on tenterhooks waiting for the EQ.









I'm serious dammit!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12520464
> 
> 
> Any update on D2 room correction.
> 
> 
> Michael




Be patient


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/12511627
> 
> 
> Hello all. I'm looking to join the ranks of D2 ownership after my 10-year old Onkyo receiver self-destructed. I'm planning on purchasing used D2 for $5k. Is there anything I should look for or ask about? What is the difference between the rack-mount version and the standard version (I'll need to rack-mount it.) Thanks...



There are 3 models: handle version, version w/o handles, and rack mount version. Changing the D2 from one to another version can't be done by the end-user. When I asked Anthem about this last year, they said you can ship it back to them and they will do the transformation for $100US plus shipping.


----------



## Carlton Bale

Thanks for the info everyone. I called Anthem and Nick told me a dealer could order the rack handles and perform the conversion. Actually, I'm pretty sure I could just have the dealer order the handles and do the conversion myself. Just loosen the faceplate, remove the two screws for the standard curved "wings", and install the rack ears in their place.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/12522543
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info everyone. I called Anthem and Nick told me a dealer could order the rack handles and perform the conversion. Actually, I'm pretty sure I could just have the dealer order the handles and do the conversion myself. Just loosen the faceplate, remove the two screws for the standard curved "wings", and install the rack ears in their place.



There are some HIDDEN front panel screws on the

inside of the chassis. Still no big Deal - I not only

did my own I even made my own [GRIN] - it was

faster.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/12522543
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info everyone. I called Anthem and Nick told me a dealer could order the rack handles and perform the conversion. Actually, I'm pretty sure I could just have the dealer order the handles and do the conversion myself. Just loosen the faceplate, remove the two screws for the standard curved "wings", and install the rack ears in their place.



When I ordered my D2, I was on the fence about getting the standard (handle) version or the rack mounted version. The D2s were on back order back then, and the rack mounted version would have entailed waiting a few extra weeks. I didn't want to wait for it, so I got the standard version. Now that I got a rack, I'm wishing I got the rack version, but I'm not willing to give up my D2 for an extended period.


Let us know how easy it is to do the transformation yourself (and if any special tools are needed).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/12523396
> 
> 
> When I ordered my D2, I was on the fence about getting the standard (handle) version or the rack mounted version. The D2s were on back order back then, and the rack mounted version would have entailed waiting a few extra weeks. I didn't want to wait for it, so I got the standard version. Now that I got a rack, I'm wishing I got the rack version, but I'm not willing to give up my D2 for an extended period.
> 
> 
> Let us know how easy it is to do the transformation yourself (and if any special tools are needed).



As DRHANKZ pointed out, the handles are removable if you open up the chassis. He took his standard handles and drilled holes through them to make them into fancy (i.e., with an unusual aesthetic curve) rack mount wings. There are pictures in this very thread. It helps if you have a drill press and no fear about screwing up a $7000 toy.


So far no one has posted here that they've been able to talk Anthem into giving/selling them alternate handles after buying their D2.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12524047
> 
> 
> So far no one has posted here that they've been able to talk Anthem into giving/selling them alternate handles after buying their D2.
> 
> --Bob



That's exaclty the point. It is not Anthem policy to just give out or sell parts to modify any of their products though perhaps it could be done on a case-by-case basis.


The only time I ever managed to get a part from Anthem was a warranty claim on an A5 for a stripped speaker terminal. And I had to take the cover off etc... to install it.


They do sell an AVM/PVA rack kit (not for PVA 7) and an MCA rack kit (not available for pre July 2005 MCA 50's) both of which retail for $75.


They're not too keen on taking stuff apart.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12524047
> 
> 
> As DRHANKZ pointed out, the handles are removable if you open up the chassis. He took his standard handles and drilled holes through them to make them into fancy (i.e., with an unusual aesthetic curve) rack mount wings. There are pictures in this very thread.
> 
> --Bob



YES they are pictured *HERE*


I would not try it on a drill press - I used a Vertical Milling Machine!


----------



## cecaa850

When I get home tonight, I'll look at what I got when I bought my D2. I told the dealer that I was going to rack mount my D2 when I ordered it. To the best of my recolection they sold me a rack mount kit. The D2 came in configured for a rack installation and I believe I just put the kit aside. If I have it I'll let you know what's in it.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/12526295
> 
> 
> When I get home tonight, I'll look at what I got when I bought my D2. I told the dealer that I was going to rack mount my D2 when I ordered it. To the best of my recolection they sold me a rack mount kit. The D2 came in configured for a rack installation and I believe I just put the kit aside. If I have it I'll let you know what's in it.



Ya








What is in you KIT










Curious minds need to know


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/12522264
> 
> 
> Be patient



No!


----------



## mr_fitz

pulling the trigger on the RS-1 tomorrow to go with my D2.










Wife is gonna kill me when she finds out I spent $20k in toys this year. Guess I'm gonna have to install that crown molding she wants throughout the house.


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12529815
> 
> 
> pulling the trigger on the RS-1 tomorrow to go with my D2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wife is gonna kill me when she finds out I spent $20k in toys this year. Guess I'm gonna have to install that crown molding she wants throughout the house.



You'll need that compound miter saw toy to go along with that installation job.


----------



## Carlton Bale

Great news. It's a done deal. My D2 will arrive next week!


Thanks for all of the info on rack mounting. Please let me know what you find out about a kit. I'll definitely want to convert mine and hopefully it will not require custom-made ears.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/12533052
> 
> 
> Great news. It's a done deal. My D2 will arrive next week!
> 
> 
> Thanks for all of the info on rack mounting. Please let me know what you find out about a kit. I'll definitely want to convert mine and hopefully it will not require custom-made ears.



I believe the Anthem Rack Mount setup will look

exactly like the one that I machined from scratch.

Somewhere - at the time - I found a picture of

Anthem's Version and I designed mine to look just

like it. But now I can't find those pictures to save

my life










Congratulation on your D2 purchase.


You'll be needing some Mascots after you get it

up and running.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

[I'm going to beg your indulgence while I ask the posters here a thoroughly selfish and off-topic question.]


Well, sad to say, it is pretty clear from the owner's thread in the other forum here that the new Samsung BD-UP5000 combo HD-DVD/Blu-Ray player is not ready for prime time. I'm only interested in a Blu-Ray player that meets Player Profile 1.1 and internally decodes Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA properly for use with the D2. However, it is pretty obvious that Samsung has shipped the bare minimum they could get away with in this player -- while telling everyone that a future firmware update will make things better (just trust us). It boggles the mind that anyone would actually ship a player today that takes advantage of the loophole in the specs saying they can claim TrueHD decoding even if they only decode it to STEREO.


It will be interesting to see if ANY Blu-Ray player does this right before Denon actually ships their high-end (and price) player some 5 months after announcing it. (Which is worth a snort in its own right since 5-6 months is a whole product development cycle for players these days.)


----------------------------------


Which leaves HD-DVD.


Setting aside the issue of whether there is enough HD-DVD content for sale, I know of nothing in HD-DVD land that is just around the corner in player capabilities which would call for holding off on a HD-DVD player purchase at this point. Correct?


Which means stability and performance of the current HD-DVD feature set is the deciding factor for any given player -- as well as the usual companion feature set such as standard DVD performance.


So is there a consensus among posters here, for a new purchase today or into (say) the next two months, and with money no object, as to the correct HD-DVD player to get for use with the D2? Or are none of them really "right" yet either?


A30? A35? Wait for (insert model name here)? Thanks for your indulgence.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Bob - I know you said money is no object but the A30 at $199 is a no brainer. It does 1080P at 24fps and the only thing that the A35 really brings is 1.3 bitstreaming which we can't use.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12534195
> 
> 
> [I'm going to beg your indulgence while I ask the posters here a thoroughly selfish and off-topic question.]
> 
> 
> Well, sad to say, it is pretty clear from the owner's thread in the other forum here that the new Samsung BD-UP5000 combo HD-DVD/Blu-Ray player is not ready for prime time.
> 
> --Bob



Since you are already 1-1/2 years behind the Hi-Def

DVD movie experience Bob







- I would say DO NOTHING

until February. There should be a wave of announcements

coming out of CES.


I think anyone who buys at this LATE stage is just throwing

MONEY to the wind. I'm very happy with my Gen 1 HD and

Blu-Ray players which I have owned for 1-1/2 years.


I had hoped the Samsung would be my next Gen player.

Obviously that will never happen. I'll sit tight until CES

to see who delivers a good next Gen player. Any out there

today are OBSOLETE by definition.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12534336
> 
> 
> Since you are already 1-1/2 years behind the Hi-Def
> 
> DVD movie experience Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I would say DO NOTHING
> 
> until February. There should be a wave of announcements
> 
> coming out of CES.
> 
> 
> I think anyone who buys at this LATE stage is just throwing
> 
> MONEY to the wind. I'm very happy with my Gen 1 HD and
> 
> Blu-Ray players which I have owned for 1-1/2 years.
> 
> 
> I had hoped the Samsung would be my next Gen player.
> 
> Obviously that will never happen. I'll sit tight until CES
> 
> to see who delivers a good next Gen player. Any out there
> 
> today are OBSOLETE by definition.



It is still a good timing to buy an HD DVD but for Blu-Ray, I agree with drhankz, you need to wait until we see what will be announced at CES. Every BR player currently sold with the exception of the PS3 is already obsolete. The next Blu-Ray player should be at a minimum 1.1 profile compatible even be 2.0 compatible and for a D2 owner it should include DTS MA 5.1 internal decoding. I am confident there will such annoncement at CES from a few manufacturers one of them being Pioneer. The big question is when will we be able to get one of these? Q1 or Q2 of 2008?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/12534323
> 
> 
> Bob - I know you said money is no object but the A30 at $199 is a no brainer. It does 1080P at 24fps and the only thing that the A35 really brings is 1.3 bitstreaming which we can't use.



Yeah. And I gather you would use HDMI 480i for standard DVD playback because it doesn't include the Reon upscaling found in the XA2 or Onkyo 805 players, correct?

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12534195
> 
> 
> [I'm going to beg your indulgence while I ask the posters here a thoroughly selfish and off-topic question.]
> 
> 
> Well, sad to say, it is pretty clear from the owner's thread in the other forum here that the new Samsung BD-UP5000 combo HD-DVD/Blu-Ray player is not ready for prime time. I'm only interested in a Blu-Ray player that meets Player Profile 1.1 and internally decodes Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA properly for use with the D2. However, it is pretty obvious that Samsung has shipped the bare minimum they could get away with in this player -- while telling everyone that a future firmware update will make things better (just trust us). It boggles the mind that anyone would actually ship a player today that takes advantage of the loophole in the specs saying they can claim TrueHD decoding even if they only decode it to STEREO.
> 
> 
> It will be interesting to see if ANY Blu-Ray player does this right before Denon actually ships their high-end (and price) player some 5 months after announcing it. (Which is worth a snort in its own right since 5-6 months is a whole product development cycle for players these days.)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> Which leaves HD-DVD.
> 
> 
> Setting aside the issue of whether there is enough HD-DVD content for sale, I know of nothing in HD-DVD land that is just around the corner in player capabilities which would call for holding off on a HD-DVD player purchase at this point. Correct?
> 
> 
> Which means stability and performance of the current HD-DVD feature set is the deciding factor for any given player -- as well as the usual companion feature set such as standard DVD performance.
> 
> 
> So is there a consensus among posters here, for a new purchase today or into (say) the next two months, and with money no object, as to the correct HD-DVD player to get for use with the D2? Or are none of them really "right" yet either?
> 
> 
> A30? A35? Wait for (insert model name here)? Thanks for your indulgence.
> 
> --Bob



I personally prefer the XA2 for one single thing, the Reon processor. Normally, I always watch my DVDs using my Pioneer BR with source direct turn on. This give me a DVD input to the D2 at 480i. Meanwhile, for some really badly encoded DVD, I prefer to use the XA2 and turn on the noise reduction capability of the Reon processor to get 480p with some amount of noise reduction. The XA2 just provide more flexibility.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12534336
> 
> 
> Since you are already 1-1/2 years behind the Hi-Def
> 
> DVD movie experience Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I would say DO NOTHING
> 
> until February. There should be a wave of announcements
> 
> coming out of CES.
> 
> 
> I think anyone who buys at this LATE stage is just throwing
> 
> MONEY to the wind. I'm very happy with my Gen 1 HD and
> 
> Blu-Ray players which I have owned for 1-1/2 years.
> 
> 
> I had hoped the Samsung would be my next Gen player.
> 
> Obviously that will never happen. I'll sit tight until CES
> 
> to see who delivers a good next Gen player. Any out there
> 
> today are OBSOLETE by definition.



As it turns out, It'll probably be after CES before I buy anything anyway.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/12534714
> 
> 
> I personally prefer the XA2 for one single thing, the Reon processor. Normally, I always watch my DVDs using my Pioneer BR with source direct turn on. This give me a DVD input to the D2 at 480i. Meanwhile, for some really badly encoded DVD, I prefer to use the XA2 and turn on the noise reduction capability of the Reon processor to get 480p with some amount of noise reduction. The XA2 just provide more flexibility.



It looks like the XA2 has vanished from most sales channels -- although Value Electronics still has it. And I gather the Onkyo DV-HD805 is just a repackaged XA2, but without the price drop the XA2 has seen.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12534684
> 
> 
> Yeah. And I gather you would use HDMI 480i for standard DVD playback because it doesn't include the Reon upscaling found in the XA2 or Onkyo 805 players, correct?
> 
> --Bob



None of the Toshiba (A3, A30, A35, XA2) will provide you with a 480i input, minimum 480p. But since your are also planning on getting a BR player, you will be able to get 480i from the BR player.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12534744
> 
> 
> It looks like the XA2 has vanished from most sales channels -- although Value Electronics still has it. And I gather the Onkyo DV-HD805 is just a repackaged XA2, but without the price drop the XA2 has seen.
> 
> --Bob



This is why I currently like the XA2, you could get a good price on the remaining one.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12529243
> 
> 
> No!



Be prepared


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/12534787
> 
> 
> None of the Toshiba (A3, A30, A35, XA2) will provide you with a 480i input, minimum 480p. But since your are also planning on getting a BR player, you will be able to get 480i from the BR player.



Ah hah! Thanks for the correction on that. I thought it was only the XA2 that had that limitation of no HDMI 480i for standard DVD playback.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/12534787
> 
> 
> None of the Toshiba (A3, A30, A35, XA2) will provide you with a 480i input, minimum 480p. But since your are also planning on getting a BR player, you will be able to get 480i from the BR player.



Tolstoi, there are owner reports in the HD-DVD player forum that both the A30 and the A35 *CAN* do HDMI 480i output for standard DVDs. Which is apparently a good thing since the de-interlacing in those two players is apparently crap.


So do you have newer information that the HDMI 480i output from standard DVDs doesn't actually work right for the A30 and A35?


Thanks!

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12535127
> 
> 
> Tolstoi, there are owner reports in the HD-DVD player forum that both the A30 and the A35 *CAN* do HDMI 480i output for standard DVDs. Which is apparently a good thing since the de-interlacing in those two players is apparently crap.
> 
> 
> So do you have newer information that the HDMI 480i output from standard DVDs doesn't actually work right for the A30 and A35?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> --Bob




My comment is based on the spec sheet, I haven't manage to find the user manual.

http://www.*********************/imag...ta%20sheet.pdf 


If users managed to get 480i than this is really cool since it open the possibility for a reasonably cheap HD DVD/DVD transport.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12534724
> 
> 
> As it turns out, It'll probably be after CES before I buy anything anyway.
> 
> --Bob



Sound Technological Decision.


----------



## barhoram

As for 480i out of a Blu Ray or HD-DVD player for SD-DVD's....here is one thing that I found. I've reverted back to using my Pioneer 59AVI for SD-DVD's due to the long load times of either format's current players. I thougth that I would sell my 59avi after investing in both players, but I find that it is still my player of choice for SD-DVD's. I guess I don't mind wating 20-25 seconds to insert a High Def Disk, but I guess I can't justify that vs. the almost instant on/eject/load disk of the 59AVI. Something to think about.


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12526368
> 
> 
> Ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is in you KIT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curious minds need to know



It wasn't in the living room as I had hoped. I'll need to go into the garage attic....................stay tuned.


----------



## cargen

I have both a regular NON-rack mount Anthem D2 and a regular NON-rack mount Anthem A5 mounted in my Middle Atlantic rack. See my photo attached.


They are both mounted on standard middle atlantic shelves concealed by vented spacer panels. I purchased some rubber washers to use a shunts under legs to manage height of each component. Works fine. Looks fine.


Chris


----------



## cargen

Whoops! Tried to attach a jpg photo to the above, but it didn't work. If anyone wants me to email a photo, send me a PM.


Chris


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Hi all... i just added a pioneer plasma to the mix... a 5010 kuro...looks great. Question... i seem to remember that the "data " setting under video output in the menu should be set to a specifc output such as RGB or 4,4,4, etc. rather than than just AUTO? Is that still the case? Am i getting this confused with another setting such as color input HDTV vs. SDTV?


Also, if anyone with a 5010 and a D2 want to comment on the best setting please chime in.


-Bob


----------



## cecaa850

Here's how I've got mine rackmounted.


----------



## Jim E.

Ok, the word from Anthem is they'll sell the dealer a rack-mount kit ($75/pair)on a case-by-case basis for the 19-1/4 version but it takes a little work to install.


The swap is performed by removing the top cover and loosening screws under face to tilt face forward. The handles can now be unbolted/installed.


If you have the 17-1/4 version of the D2 it needs to go back to the factory for a complete faceplate swap. I'm told it's cost prohibitive.










HTH


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/12538211
> 
> 
> Here's how I've got mine rackmounted.




Saw your rack, but how do you keepout the noise from the XLS402's, they have dual fans at the rear and I just can't stand fan noise. If you close the rack, how can you control the D2? Unless , you have a Pronto or the like.


----------



## ninja12

I am in the process of replacing my current receiver, RX-V2500, with the Anthem D2. I would like to get it by February 2008. I was wondering if you know if Anthem has any changes in the near future for the D2 or if they will be coming out with a D3. If so, then I will just wait if I can. I really don't know if I can wait much longer since I had a chance to listen to it and go through all the menus. It was me and the D2 for 2 hours in the store. The sound was spectacular as well as the picture. Anyway, if you know about any near future changes for the D2 or a new D3 coming out, could you please let me know. As always, your response is greatly appreciated.



Thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/12538211
> 
> 
> Here's how I've got mine rackmounted.



Cool - THOSE Rank Handles look *JUST LIKE the ones I made*










Where the D2 is so close to all those Crowns - I'm surprised

you don't have a heat problem. I made sure my D2 had open

space all around it.


----------



## mr_fitz

Just ordered my RS-1 to go with my D2










Finally gonna get the great picture to go with the fabulous sound.


John


----------



## cecaa850

As far as the fan noise from the crown go, I clipped off the shrouds on the back of the cases and replaced the fans with some 14dB bearingless Enlobal fans. The room has to be dead silent to hear them. As far as the heat goes, if you notice on top of the D2 there's a black box on the right side. It contains a fan that pulls heat off the top and exhausts it out the rear. On the rear of the unit on top rear, you can barely see the top of one of the 2 exhaust fans. They are the same fans that I used in the Crowns except I've slowed them down with a resistor to make them even quieter. The 3 cooling fans are on a triggered outlet in the Furman and turn on and off via the 12V trigger signal outputed by the D2. The whole thing runs very cool to the touch, just slightly warmer than ambient temperature and is very quiet.


----------



## cecaa850

One question that I just realized I missed. Even though the front doors are not clear, you can still use the remotes for the D2 and (not pictured) XA2, Oppo and 94HD. The only drawback is that you can't actually read the front of any of the components but the remotes work just fine.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/12542749
> 
> 
> I am in the process of replacing my current receiver, RX-V2500, with the Anthem D2. I would like to get it by February 2008. I was wondering if you know if Anthem has any changes in the near future for the D2 or if they will be coming out with a D3. If so, then I will just wait if I can. I really don't know if I can wait much longer since I had a chance to listen to it and go through all the menus. It was me and the D2 for 2 hours in the store. The sound was spectacular as well as the picture. Anyway, if you know about any near future changes for the D2 or a new D3 coming out, could you please let me know. As always, your response is greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.



No D3 on the horizon, and the only change to the D2 is a room EQ feature that existing users can upgrade to in the field (apparently being beta tested currently). So go ahead and do the right thing!


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/12544141
> 
> 
> No D3 on the horizon, and the only change to the D2 is a room EQ feature that existing users can upgrade to in the field (apparently being beta tested currently). So go ahead and do the right thing!



And I suggest that he pulls the trigger quickly since Anthem (and Paradigm) just announced another price increase for 2008 which is supposedly somewhere between 8-12%!


The alleged culprit is the weakened U.S. dollar.


----------



## ninja12

gdc and Jim E,


Thanks for the info. Do you guys know when the price is going to increase in 08? Will it be before February 08?


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/12548682
> 
> 
> gdc and Jim E,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. Do you guys know when the price is going to increase in 08? Will it be before February 08?



Get it earlier and treat yourself to an X'mas present!


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/12548682
> 
> 
> gdc and Jim E,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. Do you guys know when the price is going to increase in 08? Will it be before February 08?



I was informed that it will take effect January 1, 2008 and I assume the price list is on its way. I'll let you guys know as soon as I hear/see it.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/12548989
> 
> 
> Get it earlier and treat yourself to an X'mas present!



Well, it will be a post Christmas present. I just need to make sure that I order it before the price increase.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12549253
> 
> 
> I was informed that it will take effect January 1, 2008 and I assume the price list is on its way. I'll let you guys know as soon as I hear/see it.



Ok. Well, I guess I will be placing my order either tomorrow or early next week. Thanks again Jim.


----------



## mlbrand

I'm considering upgrading my HD-DVD player, to the A30 or A35. The High Bit Rate audio output option of the A35 is of NO benefit to D2 owners, correct?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/12553298
> 
> 
> I'm considering upgrading my HD-DVD player, to the A30 or A35. The High Bit Rate audio output option of the A35 is of NO benefit to D2 owners, correct?



RIGHT


What is IMPORTANT is Internal Decoding Done by the *PLAYER*.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12553383
> 
> 
> RIGHT
> 
> 
> What is IMPORTANT is Internal Decoding Done by the *PLAYER*.



Yes, I also opted for the HD-A30, since the HD-A35's additional features were of no use to me (and in the future, when they might be of use, it would be about time to upgrade to a newer HD-DVD player anyway). FYI, for you PS3 owners, there's a new firmware upgrade that supports Blu-Ray Profile 1.1:

http://www.audioholics.com/news/indu...ay-profile-1.1 


I got my PS3 a little over a year ago, and I'm very happy how Sony continually comes out with firmware upgrades to enhance its Blu-ray capabilities. If I had bought a standalone Blu-ray a year ago, it would be out of date already.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/12554002
> 
> 
> FYI, for you PS3 owners, there's a new firmware upgrade that supports Blu-Ray Profile 1.1:



I JUST turned my PS3 Off. I'll have to go back online

now and update










Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## Kensmith48

Just wanted to clarify something:

I can only use the component in's & out's on my present dvd player, the D2, and rptv and I can only do 480p. If I purchase an upconverting or a hd player can I send 1080i from the hdmi in-out of the D2 and hd or upconverting dvd player out to the rptv with component?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12554043
> 
> 
> I JUST turned my PS3 Off. I'll have to go back online
> 
> now and update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the heads up.



But you don't use a GAME CONSOLE to play movies in your HOME THEATER, right?!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12554416
> 
> 
> But you don't use a GAME CONSOLE to play movies in your HOME THEATER, right?!



I have three theaters.


I do use the PS3 for movies in one of them.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12554566
> 
> 
> I have three theaters.
> 
> 
> I do use the PS3 for movies in one of them.



Yes, it's embarrassing that you have an incredibly capable Profile 1.1 player in one of your THREE (amazing) home theaters (which plays video games, tangentially) when I have no Profile 1.1 players in either my home theater or family room.







. How dare you.







. (Kicking myself for returning my PS3, but glad I didn't grab a 94 or 95HD to replace my HD1).


Happy holidays all

DrTim


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/12554809
> 
> 
> Yes, it's embarrassing that you have an incredibly capable Profile 1.1 player in one of your THREE (amazing) home theaters (which plays video games, tangentially) when I have no Profile 1.1 players in either my home theater or family room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . How dare you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . (Kicking myself for returning my PS3, but glad I didn't grab a 94 or 95HD to replace my HD1).
> 
> 
> Happy holidays all
> 
> DrTim



I really only have the PS3 for gaming - but the

fact that it plays movies in Theater #2 is and OK thing










Merry Christmas


----------



## christiandumas

I'm still waiting for my D2 purchase, (trying to avoid buying on credit).

Just to keep me focus, i would like some news about the coming upgrades, specially the room EQ; is it still in testing, is it working good, ?


Another question; I live in Quebec, with a good canadian dollar right now, would you consider it risky to buy in the US instead of Canada, I'm close to vermont ? I know i save somme $ but what about support, it seems I can find everything right here!










Thank's

(love this thread)


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christiandumas* /forum/post/12555152
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting for my D2 purchase, (trying to avoid buying on credit).
> 
> Just to keep me focus, i would like some news about the coming upgrades, specially the room EQ; is it still in testing, is it working good, ?
> 
> 
> Another question; I live in Quebec, with a good canadian dollar right now, would you consider it risky to buy in the US instead of Canada, I'm close to vermont ? I know i save somme $ but what about support, it seems I can find everything right here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank's
> 
> (love this thread)



The only upgrade on the horizon is the room EQ. It was apparently in beta testing recently. No word on when it will ship, but it has to be soon. Anyone who has actually heard it is probably bound by non-disclosure agreement to say nothing, so there really is no information available.


Many of us expect the EQ to meet or exceed the Audyssey system, for ~$300! It is highly anticipated.


You might call Anthem or a dealer and ask if buyng in the US presents a problem with warranty and support.








There is a price increase (8-10%) going into effect Jan 1st. I didn't notice if that is US prices only, but nevertheless you might want to get the purchase done quickly!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/12554386
> 
> 
> Just wanted to clarify something:
> 
> I can only use the component in's & out's on my present dvd player, the D2, and rptv and I can only do 480p. If I purchase an upconverting or a hd player can I send 1080i from the hdmi in-out of the D2 and hd or upconverting dvd player out to the rptv with component?



No. If the content coming in to the D2 over HDMI is copy protected (which will be the case for essentially all commercial DVD discs) then only the HDMI, processed videdo outputs of the D2 will be live. See Section 2.1 of the manual.


However if you are playing HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs then you will find you CAN, at least today, get high res video out of the player over Component and the D2 will then process that further for its Component output. Please note that both the HD-DVD and Blu-Ray specs include a mechanism for this to be turned off on a disc by disc basis if any given disc producer decides to do so, but so far no discs have been sold that prohibit that, and there is no reason to believe any studio will start prohibiting it any time soon on new discs.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks again Bob.

I thought I had read somewhere that they didn't want to alienate the people that were early adopters of HD through component. For the time being though, they want more sales I suppose.


----------



## christiandumas

With the price of the unit schedule to get higher in 2008, I might order it faster...


Any PM for where to buy in Canada or US, or Online would be appreciated.

I live in Quebec, Canada, but can drive easily to save some $$$.


Thank's


----------



## shah993

Codell audio in Montreal is one of the best.Talk to Frank.I live in the States and Frank even tried to cross the border to setup my D2 ( He was not allowed unfortunately) but that is dedicated service IMO.


----------



## ninja12

Well, I pulled the trigger tonight and ordered my D2. The salesman confirmed that Anthem and Paradigm will be increasing the price in 2008. He didn't know how much because he didn't have the new price sheet. Anyway, I'm happy that I did it. It will now complete my "going to separates".


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12554416
> 
> 
> But you don't use a GAME CONSOLE to play movies in your HOME THEATER, right?!



Funny... when I purchased my PS3 last December, 2006, the primary reason I wanted it was not for games but for playing Blu-ray DVDs. At the time, I had compared the PS3 with standalone Blu-ray DVD players, and the PS3 was better than the available standalone players (or had the future potential of being better via firmware upgrades). A year later, it's still proving to be a very good choice compared to standalone players. The only disadvantage is not being able to power it off and on via my Pronto universal remote (which really isn't that big a deal, since it turns on automatically when you insert a DVD - and, unlike my brand new Toshiba HD-A30, I don't need to wait 45 seconds or so after powering it on before I can even insert a DVD). I can control playback via my Pronto using a PS2 USB infrared hack described elsewhere.


So far, a year later, I think the PS3 can still go head-to-head with the best blu-ray players (and HD DVD players too - the PS3 takes maybe 5 seconds to start playing a Blu-Ray while my brand new Toshiba HD-A30 takes about 45 seconds or so to bootup and another few seconds to load a DVD).


When I got my PS3, I also figured that, at worst, if I purchase a standalone Blu-ray that meets my needs, then I could always use my PS3 for games. I bought a game (Fall of Man) when I got my PS3, but I haven't broken the shrink wrap yet (I used to love games, but don't have much time for them). In fact, it's not until last week, about a year after I bought my PS3, when I finally played my first game on my PS3 (the free Grand Turisdmo HD demo download). That game has incredible photo-realistic graphics and a great way to show off your system!! Plus, my G35 car is in the game!


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/12559616
> 
> 
> Well, I pulled the trigger tonight and ordered my D2. The salesman confirmed that Anthem and Paradigm will be increasing the price in 2008. He didn't know how much because he didn't have the new price sheet. Anyway, I'm happy that I did it. It will now complete my "going to separates".




Congratulations!!! Hope you get it soon!


----------



## funlvr1965

I am getting an error that says " VIDEO PROCESSOR uC FLASH programming failed(error code = 0x3066660a) I have tried several times to reflash, all other areas of the 1.21d firmware upgrade process seems to work except this last part, seems that this is an important part of the process, I havent [/b]even tried to see if my unit will work yet, any ideas?


----------



## funlvr1965

ok now I cant even load back my original settings, it just says "please wait.....uploading data" and just sits there


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/12560054
> 
> 
> I am getting an error that says " VIDEO PROCESSOR uC FLASH programming failed(error code = 0x3066660a) I have tried several times to reflash, all other areas of the 1.21d firmware upgrade process seems to work except this last part, seems that this is an important part of the process, I havent [/b]even tried to see if my unit will work yet, any ideas?



If worst comes to worst, Anthem has two methods for resetting the unit to receive a firmware install. Both methods basically force all the programmable parts to an erased state. One is a software program that you run from your PC. If that doesn't work, the other is a procedure that involves opening up the chassis and accessing a jumper inside. Contact Anthem tech support for the software and instructions.


However, the most common reason for failure to flash the video processor is if you have a powered HDMI connection while you try to install the software.


Be aware that many HDMI source devices and displays keep their HDMI sockets powered even when they appear to be "Off". To make sure you have no powered connections you could, of course, pull the HDMI plug at either end for each cable, but what I recommend instead (since HDMI plugs are delicate) is that you simply unplug everything else in your system from WALL POWER except for the Anthem and your computer while doing a software install.


If this is what's going on in your unit, you may still be able to retry the firmware install after making sure you have no powered HDMI connections either on input or output. (Just try it and see. If it completes without complaint then you are fine notwithstanding the earlier failures.) But, unfortunately, there are cases where a failed install can not be undone without first resetting the unit as mentioned above.

--Bob


----------



## funlvr1965

Thanks for the response Bob this is really strange that it would not complete the last part of the update, when I turn on the Anthem now it even says D1 instead of D1H like it used to so I know on some level the firmware took, nothing seems to work though as far as OSD, I have tried to get it to work but I guess half of an update just isnt going to cut it, very dissapointed but I will have another go at it tomorrow


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/12560721
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response Bob this is really strange that it would not complete the last part of the update, when I turn on the Anthem now it even says D1 instead of D1H like it used to so I know on some level the firmware took, nothing seems to work though as far as OSD, I have tried to get it to work but I guess half of an update just isnt going to cut it, very dissapointed but I will have another go at it tomorrow



I recommend you not even TRY to use the unit after a failed install like this. Partially installed firmware could do anything -- including, possibly, damage to the unit.


You need to get an install to complete properly -- either of the new software or your prior software.


If you can get that far, then do a Setup / Save & Restore Settings / Reload Factory Defaults before you do anything else with the unit (including trying to reload any saved set of settings).


The update consists of programming and verifying several different, separately programmable, components inside the Anthem. So the fact that some components programmed properly doesn't mean some other component can't fail to program. You've lost the video processor (basically the entire video board) since it failed to program -- which is why you don't have any OSD or even recognition by the system that a video board is there (thus D1 instead of D1-HD).


Again, you need to stop trying to get the failed install to do anything useful for you. Focus all your efforts on getting an install to complete properly.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/12559966
> 
> 
> Congratulations!!! Hope you get it soon!



Thanks randman.


The salesman said it should be no more than 2 weeks; but, I may get it as early as within a week. Anyway, it will give me time to download the manual and read it. Of course, if I get confused on anything, I know just where to come to get the answer.


----------



## Kensmith48

My salesman said the same thing. It took exactly 21 days.


----------



## wookie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/12560054
> 
> 
> I am getting an error that says " VIDEO PROCESSOR uC FLASH programming failed(error code = 0x3066660a) I have tried several times to reflash, all other areas of the 1.21d firmware upgrade process seems to work except this last part, seems that this is an important part of the process, I havent [/b]even tried to see if my unit will work yet, any ideas?



I had a similar problem trying to get the 1.21d version to fully install. I finally got it to install using another computer(using windows xp) with a serial port. This was odd since I had no trouble in the past installing previous updates with an old laptop(using windows 98) with a serial port. HDMI was not a factor as I didn't have any HDMI equiptment connected at the time.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wookie* /forum/post/12562515
> 
> 
> I had a similar problem trying to get the 1.21d version to fully install. I finally got it to install using another computer(using windows xp) with a serial port. This was odd since I had no trouble in the past installing previous updates with an old laptop(using windows 98) with a serial port. HDMI was not a factor as I didn't have any HDMI equiptment connected at the time.



FYI, in the past, I tried to use a Windows XP "certified" USB/Serial adapter, and firmware upgrades would fail. Others in this forum had better luck using the exact same USB/Serial adapter. But for some unknown reason, I couldn't do firmware upgrades with it (I posted this information a long time ago elsewhere in this thread). Anyway, I instead used a laptop with a built-in serial port, and it works just fine. I later bought a PCI card with a serial port for my HTPC and it works great for upgrading.


----------



## wookie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/12569055
> 
> 
> FYI, in the past, I tried to use a Windows XP "certified" USB/Serial adapter, and firmware upgrades would fail. Others in this forum had better luck using the exact same USB/Serial adapter. But for some unknown reason, I couldn't do firmware upgrades with it (I posted this information a long time ago elsewhere in this thread). Anyway, I instead used a laptop with a built-in serial port, and it works just fine. I later bought a PCI card with a serial port for my HTPC and it works great for upgrading.



Right. Both my laptop and the desktop had built in serial ports. The only difference aside from the cpu was the operating system (windows 98 on the laptop and XP on the desktop. Actually I could still reinstall an older version of the software with the laptop. I just couldn't install 1.21d with the laptop


----------



## Expletive

Since ive installed 1.21d ive had a few occurrences where the D2 doesnt send video out via HDMI. I cant exactly put my finger on what sequence of events causes this to happen but once it happens it seems very difficult to get it working again. I know its the D2 becuase when i plug the HDMI out cable directly into the source component my 8720 comes right up with video. Last night i got lucky and when i turned off the D2 and turned it back on i was in business. Switching inputs and plugging/unplugging HDMI cables doesnt help.


Anyone have this happening to them with 1.21d? I never had this with 1.06.


My components are the D2, Benq8720, Oppo 970hd, Toshiba A2, PS3.

Also, i have had this happen with HDMI Repeater turned on and off.


Thanks for any advice here.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/12569725
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have this happening to them with 1.21d? I never had this with 1.06.
> 
> 
> My components are the D2, Benq8720, Oppo 970hd, Toshiba A2, PS3.
> 
> Also, i have had this happen with HDMI Repeater turned on and off.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any advice here.



I would suspect the PS3.


I don't have my PS3 hooked to my D2 in my BIG Theater.


But I have a PS3 hooked to a Pioneer AVR in my Medium

theater and I know with 100% certainty - the PS3 occasionally

HANGS up the Pioneer AVR.


Next time pay attention to what the PS3 is doing. It just

might be the culprit


----------



## tngiloy

I keep hearing about the upcoming D2 upgrade for 'room EQ'. I've got a couple of questions.

Does the unit have to go back to Canada for the upgrade? I had to send my unit to Canada to have my video board replaced and it took well over a month to get it back.

What does the 'room EQ' do that using the speaker set-up in the D2 menu with a $30 radioshack SPL meter and a $10 stanley tape measure doesn't?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/12571104
> 
> 
> I keep hearing about the upcoming D2 upgrade for 'room EQ'. I've got a couple of questions.
> 
> Does the unit have to go back to Canada for the upgrade? I had to send my unit to Canada to have my video board replaced and it took well over a month to get it back.
> 
> What does the 'room EQ' do that using the speaker set-up in the D2 menu with a $30 radioshack SPL meter and a $10 stanley tape measure doesn't?



It will not have to go back.


Adjusting speaker level with a SPL meter is not room equalization.


----------



## tngiloy

Help relieve my ignorance. What is room equalization, if its not setting speaker distance/level and setting sub to level out peaks?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/12571167
> 
> 
> Help relieve my ignorance. What is room equalization, if its not setting speaker distance/level and setting sub to level out peaks?



Room EQ is kind of like what you are doing with the subwoofer to level out peaks, but it applies across the entire frequency range and is done automatically by processing mic input received from several different mic locations.


Bad bass response in a room is so noticeable that any enthusiast will do the work to get it sorted out. But many people stop short of doing even bass response adjustment correctly, and most everyone just lives with other aspects of their room response if for no other reason than they have no good way to measure it.


Almost as an aside, the automated Room EQ stuff should also automatically set your speaker timing (distance settings), levels, and warn you if you have a phasing problem between any pair of speakers that needs to be corrected.


But that's the easy stuff. The computerized analysis (during measurement) and the real-time parametric adjustments to the audio during normal use are the tough stuff -- particularly if they work well even in rooms that have not been specially set up to have good acoustics.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/12569725
> 
> 
> Since ive installed 1.21d ive had a few occurrences where the D2 doesnt send video out via HDMI. I cant exactly put my finger on what sequence of events causes this to happen but once it happens it seems very difficult to get it working again. I know its the D2 becuase when i plug the HDMI out cable directly into the source component my 8720 comes right up with video. Last night i got lucky and when i turned off the D2 and turned it back on i was in business. Switching inputs and plugging/unplugging HDMI cables doesnt help.
> 
> 
> Anyone have this happening to them with 1.21d? I never had this with 1.06.
> 
> 
> My components are the D2, Benq8720, Oppo 970hd, Toshiba A2, PS3.
> 
> Also, i have had this happen with HDMI Repeater turned on and off.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any advice here.




Check the Status on the unit display and see if it says" No Video Input"


I had that problem.


----------



## tngiloy

Thanks Bob.

I did have to spend about an hour adjusting my SVS sub. It would have been alot easier to have it done automatically.

So how is the room eq going to hook into the D2? Through the rs232 connection? HDMI input? Is it going to be an add-on unit or something that needs to be hardwired into the D2? I assume a software upgrade will be needed also. Is there any info released yet from Anthem about the room eq?


----------



## learflyer

Well I don't know if I was just lucky but I ordered my D2 and A2 on Dec 3rd and both pieces were at the store two days later. It took me a few days to get things set up but WOW!! The D2 is truly an amazing piece of gear. I know I'm preaching to the choir on this forum but if there are people lurking on this site and trying to decide whether or not to buy a D2- count me as a convert who would urge you to go for it. Especially with the rumored price increase coming, now is the time to buy.


I have had a few problems with HDMI handshakes between the D2 and the SA 8300HD PVR but nothing serious yet.


Merry Christmas to all on this site.


RW


----------



## rsnodgrass

I recently had problems updating firmware on another serial device and found out the serial cable was the culprit! The cable worked fine on other devices too, strange. Anyway, you might try a different cable if you ever have problems.


----------



## rsnodgrass

I'll second that, the D2 was the best upgrade I've done to my home theater system in years. My wife really loved the musical improvement of the Anthem-Music setting which attempts to leverage all the speakers in our system. Even in pure stereo mode we heard things on our favorite albums we'd never heard before.


----------



## funlvr1965

well in my case case I have tried 2 different 9pin serial cables and two different laptops with the same result, I hope Anthem is open christmas eve because at the moment my D2 is non functional.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12571094
> 
> 
> I would suspect the PS3.
> 
> 
> I don't have my PS3 hooked to my D2 in my BIG Theater.
> 
> 
> But I have a PS3 hooked to a Pioneer AVR in my Medium
> 
> theater and I know with 100% certainty - the PS3 occasionally
> 
> HANGS up the Pioneer AVR.
> 
> 
> Next time pay attention to what the PS3 is doing. It just
> 
> might be the culprit



Even if the PS3 wasnt on at the time? the times this has happened i wasnt trying to use the PS3.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/12571950
> 
> 
> Check the Status on the unit display and see if it says" No Video Input"
> 
> 
> I had that problem.



How did you resolve it?


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *learflyer* /forum/post/12573231
> 
> 
> I have had a few problems with HDMI handshakes between the D2 and the SA 8300HD PVR but nothing serious yet.



Ever since connecting my SA 83000HD PVR up with video on HDMI and audio through optical, my HDMI handshake issues have become almost non-existent. You might want to try that.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/12572589
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> I did have to spend about an hour adjusting my SVS sub. It would have been alot easier to have it done automatically.
> 
> So how is the room eq going to hook into the D2? Through the rs232 connection? HDMI input? Is it going to be an add-on unit or something that needs to be hardwired into the D2? I assume a software upgrade will be needed also. Is there any info released yet from Anthem about the room eq?



This may have been discussed earlier but this is the general procedure.


1. update the D2 software;

2. connect mic (which is D2 serial # specific) to your computer;

3. connect pc tp D2;

4. run room eq. software;

5. place mic in main/primary listening position at ear level pointing at ceiling (note: center channel eq. and resonance filter are no longer available);

6. take at least 5 measurements;

7. after you've finished save and you'll probably be using target curves given by Anthem;

8. have the software calculate the results, save file and upload to D2.


This is basically the same procedure used to run Audyssey labs eq.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12577046
> 
> 
> This may have been discussed earlier but this is the general procedure.
> 
> 
> 1. update the D2 software;
> 
> 2. connect mic (which is D2 serial # specific) to your computer;
> 
> 3. connect pc tp D2;
> 
> 4. run room eq. software;
> 
> 5. place mic in main/primary listening position at ear level pointing at ceiling (note: center channel eq. and resonance filter are no longer available);
> 
> 6. take at least 5 measurements;
> 
> 7. after you've finished save and you'll probably be using target curves given by Anthem;
> 
> 8. have the software calculate the results, save file and upload to D2.
> 
> 
> This is basically the same procedure used to run Audyssey labs eq.



Also, the latest rumor we have is that this will cost roughly $330 including the software for both the D2 and the computer, a CALIBRATED mic (this is important for this to work well), and licensing that ties that particular mic to the serial number of your D2 -- i.e., you can't buy it once and use it with multiple D2s.


We folks who aren't involved in beta testing this are still waiting for confirmation as to:


a) HOW does the mic connect to the computer? Will it work with the older laptops people are using because they have built-in serial ports?

b) Does the computer or the D2 generate the necessary test tones, i.e., do you need any specific sort of sound card in the computer?

c) Any other details as to the required specifications for hardware and OS software for this to work on any given computer?


I'll also be looking for whether the procedure can use measurements taken from multiple mic positions (to help remove variations in room response that vary with listening position), and whether manual adjustments to the automated results are either available or required to get things "right".


=========================


EDITED TO ADD: I believe we have another leak as well that says if your subwoofer has its own EQ processing (as with the Velodyne DD series subwoofers or SMC-1 standalone bass-EQ product), then you should do that FIRST to tame the room's bass response as best it can and THEN run the automated stuff for the D2 on top of that.


For subwoofer systems that are not so automated, it is not clear what the process should be yet. I.e., should you do ANYTHING with the manual controls on your subwoofer (for volume/polarity/phasing), or do ANY tests regarding subwoofer placement and room treatment before running the new D2 automated Room-EQ stuff? Or is it a repetitive process where you run the D2 stuff multiple times while also altering subwoofer positioning or manual control settings?


And are cross-overs automatically adjusted as well? I suspect the user will still need to make manual cross-over adjustments (at least ball-park) as the D2 Room-EQ software won't know the frequency range limitations of the mains or the subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## learflyer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12574120
> 
> 
> Ever since connecting my SA 83000HD PVR up with video on HDMI and audio through optical, my HDMI handshake issues have become almost non-existent. You might want to try that.



Thanks for the tip, I'll try switching after the dust settles from Christmas. Just out of curiosity, does it make a difference if you use a coax digital instead of optical? I'm guessing that it wouldn't matter.

RW


----------



## Kensmith48

I need some help with a laptop, since I know nothing.

My wife got me a Gateway M-1617 Notebook. It has Windows Vista Home premium,AMD Turion 64 x2 1.9 GHz, Memory: 2GB DDR2 Dual Channel, ATI Radeon X1270 video, 1 HDMI, 3USB, & 1 VGA.

I thought I'd check here to see if this is adequate for downloads, audio tests & HDtv. If I want to return it to Best Buy for something else I can't open the box it came in. Is there a better video card to use?

Thanks for any help in noob english.


----------



## rudolpht

My guess is that laptop will be more than adequate, but let a beta tester that may actually know the min requirements to chirp in


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/12573643
> 
> 
> Even if the PS3 wasnt on at the time? the times this has happened i wasnt trying to use the PS3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you resolve it?



Expletive


Check for a PM


----------



## abc999

I am having a problem with the LFE of my A35 1.3 firmware via D2 1.21d. when I play transformers dd+ (only title used)via HDMI, I have an anemic Bass output. Tried my A1 w/ 2.4 firmware with the same disc and the LFE output was there. Anybody experiencing the same problem? Any workarounds?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *learflyer* /forum/post/12580911
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip, I'll try switching after the dust settles from Christmas. Just out of curiosity, does it make a difference if you use a coax digital instead of optical? I'm guessing that it wouldn't matter.
> 
> RW



If your SA 83000HD PVR has both optical and SPDIF (RCA) then you can use either.


There are those who claim there is a difference in susceptibility to jitter, but I don't agree that any differences are audible in practice - and I have trained ears.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/12581342
> 
> 
> I am having a problem with the LFE of my A35 1.3 firmware via D2 1.21d. when I play transformers dd+ (only title used)via HDMI, I have an anemic Bass output. Tried my A1 w/ 2.4 firmware with the same disc and the LFE output was there. Anybody experiencing the same problem? Any workarounds?



Make sure you have turned off any speaker management in the player.


If you can't just turn it off altogether, tell the player that you have a full complement of speakers (including a subwoofer), that all your main speakers are large, that they are all at the same distance (any distance will do so long as they are all the same), and that they need no relative volume adjustment.


If that doesn't do it for you, check to see if there's a firmware upgrade out for the player.

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/12581342
> 
> 
> I am having a problem with the LFE of my A35 1.3 firmware via D2 1.21d. when I play transformers dd+ (only title used)via HDMI, I have an anemic Bass output. Tried my A1 w/ 2.4 firmware with the same disc and the LFE output was there. Anybody experiencing the same problem? Any workarounds?



I think that when you update your firmware, some of your settings change. Pay special attention to any dynamic compression settings and make sure they're turned off. I usually go through all the settings screens before updating firmware and write down all my settings just to be sure.


----------



## funlvr1965

Does anyone know if Anthem tech support is open today? Im calling, leaving messages but have not heard from anyone yet?


----------



## Shrike645

Today is a Canadian Holiday - Boxing Day. Anthem should be closed.


----------



## funlvr1965

ok, will they be open tomorrow then?


----------



## uberanalyst

Santa (my wife) was able to score a Samsung 5000 dual Blu-Ray/HD-DVD player, and surprised me with it for Christmas. Here's my experience, with the player connected to my D2 only via HDMI (1080p), and with the D2 connected via HDMI (1080p) to my JVC RS-1 projector. No analog, and no S/PDIF cabling used. I'm running V1.12s firmware on my D2.


When everything's configured properly, the picture and sound are awesome. Watching Casino Royale on BD with uncompressed LPCM audio and 1080p/24 is quite the treat.

- To get this to work, I had to select the Audiophile/Bitstream setting on the Samsung, otherwise the "Uncompressed LPCM 5.1" language menu selection on the DVD's menu remained grayed out.

- Selecting "LPCM" on the Samsung restricted me to the player's internal Dolby Digital decoding, but delivered as LPCM to the D2.

- Selecting Re-encode/Bitstream on the Samsung resulted in the player letting me select "Uncompressed LPCM 5.1" on the DVD language menu, but the player re-encoded the audio to DTS 1.5 Mbps over the HDMI cable.

So to get true 6-channel uncompressed LPCM sound forces you to select Audiophile Bitstream (for those disks like Casino Royale that include uncompressed soundtracks). As has been widely reported elsewhere, the Samsung doesn't (yet?) include support for Dolby TrueHD, or DTS MA lossless compression.


Regardless of the audio setting, the Samsung player occasionally suffered from a few audio glitches. Sometimes starting a move resulted in garbled sound, which could be fixed by re-selecting any other audio track on the DVD menu, and then switching back a 2nd time to the desired audio track. Also, even when the sound is working correctly, about every 10 minutes or so you hear about a 1/2-second dropout or stutter -- this is hardly noticeable and can be ignored.


The Samsung has a checkbox in its menu that instructs it to deliver 24 fps. This works as advertised for Blu-Ray and HD-DVD discs that are natively encoded at 24 fps, producing a beautiful 1080p/24 output to the D2. The player otherwise defaults to 1080p/60 fps output. Watching the BBC Planet Earth HD-DVDs generates only 60 fps output from the player, even though it was obviously shot at 24 fps. And of course with regular DVDs the Samsung only produces 60 fps output.


I've tried multiple D2 configurations to accommodate both 24 fps (film) and 60 fps (video) output from the Samsung:

- Setting the D2 output to 24 fps and setting Frame Lock to Auto is problematic. This works perfectly for high-def 24 fps native disks, but when a 60 fps disk is loaded, the player, D2, and my projector flash screens for MULTIPLE MINUTES trying to do the HDMI/DRM handshake. Sometimes this will eventually result in a proper picture, with the D2 recognizing the 60 fps from the Samsung, and delivering 60 fps to the projector. But much of the time it just creates flashing blue screens, and I have to give up.

- Because of this, I've resorted to manually switching the D2 output between 60 fps and 24 fps configurations to the projector, with Frame Lock "off". While this isn't exactly "family-friendly," it achieves the desired result, and as a bonus lets me convert film-based regular DVDs to smoother 24 fps output. When using 24 fps output, occasionally the D2 will lose sync on film-based 60 fps discs (which can be fixed by hitting Pause on the remote twice). But with Blu-Ray and HD-DVDs being output from the Samsung at 24 fps, the D2 is rock solid.


Bottom line: the Samsung may be a player at this point that only a home theater geek (like me) will enjoy and know how to exploit. Here's to hoping Samsung (and Anthem) will continue to deliver more firmware upgrades.


- Dave


----------



## MikeRich

Uberanalyst - What PJ are you using withe D2+Sammy 5000 combo?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/12589896
> 
> 
> ok, will they be open tomorrow then?



They should be.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeRich* /forum/post/12591287
> 
> 
> Uberanalyst - What PJ are you using withe D2+Sammy 5000 combo?



He mentioned a JVC RS-1 in the first sentence.


----------



## bluemark81

Is the room EQ planned for both the AVM50 and D2 or just the D2?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12594850
> 
> 
> Is the room EQ planned for both the AVM50 and D2 or just the D2?



Just the D2 (with it's extra "horsepower").


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12594925
> 
> 
> Just the D2 (with it's extra "horsepower").



Rob,


Are you going to CES? I am hoping that maybe we will get the big annoucement?


Looks like Ray, John (Pepsi Boy) and myself will be there.


Michael


----------



## ANSEK

Just noticed something. I have a HR20-700 DirecTV HD-DVR connected to my D2 via HDMI. Recently I noticed my HR20-700 turns on and off with my D2. This is would be really cool but my wife bought me a SlingBox Pro for Christmas. I can't use the SlingBox because I can't turn on the HR20-700 unless the D2 is on. Has anyone seen similar behavior and know how to disable this hardware control in the D2?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12594934
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> 
> Are you going to CES? I am hoping that maybe we will get the big annoucement?
> 
> 
> Looks like Ray, John (Pepsi Boy) and myself will be there.
> 
> 
> Michael



Wish I could! I've taken too much time of work in the last week and a half unfortunately.


I hope Anthem comes through and gives us a release date!


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *learflyer* /forum/post/12580911
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip, I'll try switching after the dust settles from Christmas. Just out of curiosity, does it make a difference if you use a coax digital instead of optical? I'm guessing that it wouldn't matter.
> 
> RW



I'm using optical. doubt it would make a difference. Make sure you set your PVR to be Dolby Digital audio out and not HDMI if you do this.


----------



## benleeys

Bob,


This proposed EQ feature for the D2 - does it mean there's no more need to invest in room traps? I have been contemplating acquring some ASC traps to tame my room resonances, but now .....?


Appreciate your thoughts.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12596064
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> This proposed EQ feature for the D2 - does it mean there's no more need to invest in room traps? I have been contemplating acquring some ASC traps to tame my room resonances, but now .....?
> 
> 
> Appreciate your thoughts.
> 
> 
> Ben



An acoustically perfect listening room is always easier to EQ than a room with acoustic issues. We won't really know how big a difference it makes until we start getting some reports here on Anthem's new stuff, but odds are the fewer problems the automated Room EQ needs to solve the better job it will do.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12596434
> 
> 
> An acoustically perfect listening room is always easier to EQ than a room with acoustic issues. We won't really know how big a difference it makes until we start getting some reports here on Anthem's new stuff, but odds are the fewer problems the automated Room EQ needs to solve the better job it will do.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. Good logical advice. I suppose a lot depends on the range the EQ device can manage to tame those peaks and dips.


Ben


----------



## obie_fl

The problem with taming peaks and dips is that they are not constant throughout the room. That -15db dip at 45hz in the front row might be a +5 db peak in the back row. Moral of the story is you can only do so much electronically, you will still need to treat your room for optimal results. One encouraging aspect of the upgrade is that the EQ software takes reading at several positions and not just the listening spot.


----------



## learflyer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12595191
> 
> 
> I'm using optical. doubt it would make a difference. Make sure you set your PVR to be Dolby Digital audio out and not HDMI if you do this.



Thanks for the update, I actually haven't had any sync troubles since about the third day I set up the D2 (it's been three weeks now) so am leaving it alone until I need to get behind to change something else. When I do make the change I'll be sure to set the PVR to DD out.


----------



## barhoram

I'm using my D2 in my dedicated theater with an 1080p projector connected via HDMI. I'm wondering if this will work for a 2nd 1080p setup with a plasma.... I have an older Anthem AVM2 pre-amp that has 2 componenet inputs...and I'm thinking about purchacing a 1080p plasma. Most of the viewing on the plasma would be sports or direct-tv in HD. Can I pass 1080p component (zone 2) to the AVM2 pre-amp and have it pass 1080p to a plasma?


For those who have a D2 and a plasma, do you think the extra processing is worth it? I'm wondering how the AVM2 stacks up to the D2 sonically for 5.1 listening.


Anyone else running a senond 5.1 setup with thier D2?? If so, how are you doing it?? Seems like being able to take advantage of a 1080p zone 2 would be something to take advantage of...thoughts?


----------



## jkmw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12596064
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> This proposed EQ feature for the D2 - does it mean there's no more need to invest in room traps? I have been contemplating acquring some ASC traps to tame my room resonances, but now .....?
> 
> 
> Appreciate your thoughts.
> 
> 
> Ben



Ben,


Sent you a pm regarding ASC. Worked with them for nearly a year. Their consultation time is free.


mark


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/12598587
> 
> 
> The problem with taming peaks and dips is that they are not constant throughout the room. That -15db dip at 45hz in the front row might be a +5 db peak in the back row. Moral of the story is you can only do so much electronically, you will still need to treat your room for optimal results. One encouraging aspect of the upgrade is that the EQ software takes reading at several positions and not just the listening spot.



Ditto. SPeaker placement and careful work to tame 1st/ 2nd order reflections and controlling reverb time will go further than any electronic advice to help a room's sound. EQ is best employed after the fundamentals are well under control. Don't expect EQ / room correction to turn your system into a reference system in a live room with poor speaker placements and and big room modes..


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/12598587
> 
> 
> The problem with taming peaks and dips is that they are not constant throughout the room. That -15db dip at 45hz in the front row might be a +5 db peak in the back row. Moral of the story is you can only do so much electronically, you will still need to treat your room for optimal results. One encouraging aspect of the upgrade is that the EQ software takes reading at several positions and not just the listening spot.



You are quite right about that, obie.


Ben


----------



## whitewolf1

I am seeing red banding and thousands of red dots when using HDMI to my H79 projector. I started getting this noise issue about three months ago. I am having this problem with both my HR20 Direct tv HD sat box as well as with the Oppo 970hd Dvd player. It looks fine with component but every time I change the channel I loose the video. So; its either loss of resolution and change channels using HDMI or nice video until I change the channel using component. Any thoughts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whitewolf1* /forum/post/12613781
> 
> 
> I am seeing red banding and thousands of red dots when using HDMI to my H79 projector. I started getting this noise issue about three months ago. I am having this problem with both my HR20 Direct tv HD sat box as well as with the Oppo 970hd Dvd player. It looks fine with component but every time I change the channel I loose the video. So; its either loss of resolution and change channels using HDMI or nice video until I change the channel using component. Any thoughts?



This sounds like a marginal HDMI cable problem. Make sure your HDMI plugs are fully inserted straight into their sockets. Even the weight of the cable can loosen them enough to cause problems. Since you are using a projector, you may be running into length issues for that HDMI cable, or signal degradation through wall plates/adapters. Try temporarily setting your output resolution to 480p and see if the problem goes away when running that lower bandwidth video. If so, try upgrading/shortening your cable.


Also, see if you can reproduce the problem using the Anthem's internally generated video (the Setup menus and the test patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu under the "7" key). If so, then you know the problem is entirely on the output side of the Anthem, and not related to any issue with your source devices or their cabling. If not, then check your input cabling as well.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Is there any concern using hollow point RCA interconnects like the Eichmann Bullets with the AVM50? It seems to me that I read that I should not use them for either my Anthem or Simaudio Titan power amp, but I can't find anything in the manuals regarding this, so I'm not sure where I read it. Anyone hear this before?


----------



## metallicafreak

I see ghosting of white text on black background now that I do not think I saw before adding the D2 to my Dwin TV3. Anyone else?

FREAK!


----------



## Doright

Hello all,


I'm a frequesnt reader of this thread but rarely post.


I've had an Anthem D2 for about 13 months now (love it) and just did my 2nd firmware upgrade to version 1.21d.


Everything seemed to go well but now I get no picture to my Pioneer Elite.

I realized, after the upgrade, that I failed to save my previous video setting in video editior. I tried to set video 1 and 2 settings using the panel display of the D2 but still can not get sync to my display. I tried doing the upgrade again but still no luck.


The native res of my display is 1365 X 768 so I'm using that as my output but I've also tried 1080i with no luck. I have a very upset wife who is missing her shows and I don't wan to miss the Patriots game tomorrow.


Any ideas????


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Doright* /forum/post/12616805
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> 
> I'm a frequesnt reader of this thread but rarely post.
> 
> 
> I've had an Anthem D2 for about 13 months now (love it) and just did my 2nd firmware upgrade to version 1.21d.
> 
> 
> Everything seemed to go well but now I get no picture to my Pioneer Elite.
> 
> I realized, after the upgrade, that I failed to save my previous video setting in video editior. I tried to set video 1 and 2 settings using the panel display of the D2 but still can not get sync to my display. I tried doing the upgrade again but still no luck.
> 
> 
> The native res of my display is 1365 X 768 so I'm using that as my output but I've also tried 1080i with no luck. I have a very upset wife who is missing her shows and I don't wan to miss the Patriots game tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Any ideas????



Most likely it is something simple like a loose cable.


Power off the D2 with the remote. Then also power it off with the back panel switch. Double check your input and output cables (both ends). Power things up and see if you can get the internally generated D2 video to show on your display (Setup menu and Video Source Adjust/Patterns under the "7" key). The internally generated video is independent of any input source. Double check that you have the correct input selected on your display as well.


If you don't get video, go into Setup / Video Output and select 480p for the D2 output (the simplest signal to send to your display). Remember that you have to "accept" any changes in that menu before they will actually take effect.


If you still don't get video, try hooking up Component cables from the Main Component output to your display. Again, stay with 480p for now. Again this is likely to be something simple so don't overlook obvious stuff like you are using the remote controls incorrectly.

--Bob


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Doright* /forum/post/12616805
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> 
> I'm a frequesnt reader of this thread but rarely post.
> 
> 
> I've had an Anthem D2 for about 13 months now (love it) and just did my 2nd firmware upgrade to version 1.21d.
> 
> 
> Everything seemed to go well but now I get no picture to my Pioneer Elite.
> 
> I realized, after the upgrade, that I failed to save my previous video setting in video editior. I tried to set video 1 and 2 settings using the panel display of the D2 but still can not get sync to my display. I tried doing the upgrade again but still no luck.
> 
> 
> The native res of my display is 1365 X 768 so I'm using that as my output but I've also tried 1080i with no luck. I have a very upset wife who is missing her shows and I don't wan to miss the Patriots game tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Any ideas????



Did you save off the file to the computer or depending on style save to a user setting on the front panel (or by computer), which may have survived the upgrade.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *metallicafreak* /forum/post/12616202
> 
> 
> I see ghosting of white text on black background now that I do not think I saw before adding the D2 to my Dwin TV3. Anyone else?
> 
> FREAK!



Check the video internally generated by the Anthem -- the Setup menus and the various panels of the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key). These are independent of any input source, and can help you isolate whether the problem is on the input or output side of the Anthem.


If you are seeing "haloing" at contrasty vertical edges, then that just means you have somehow turned up Sharpness (vertical edge enhancement) too high -- either in your display or in the Video Source Adjust / Picture menus of the Anthem (for each input), or in the output menus of your source devices.


You will also get unwanted edge enhancement if you accidentally select the wrong "picture mode" in your display or in your sources. Re-read the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread for reminders about how to set things up properly.

--Bob


----------



## Doright

Bob,


Thanks for the suggestions.

It ended up being an HDMI switch that I use between my display and my overhead projector. I had to unplug it and plug it back in.


The problem I'm having now is that the 1366X768 setting on "Video 1" produces no picture on my Plasma (it's a 60" Elite). If I set the output at 1080i I get a good picture.


Is this what I should be using? Or should the native resolution work?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Doright* /forum/post/12617694
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions.
> 
> It ended up being an HDMI switch that I use between my display and my overhead projector. I had to unplug it and plug it back in.
> 
> 
> The problem I'm having now is that the 1366X768 setting on "Video 1" produces no picture on my Plasma (it's a 60" Elite). If I set the output at 1080i I get a good picture.
> 
> 
> Is this what I should be using? Or should the native resolution work?



Good job figuring out the switch was the problem.


Not every display will accept its true native resolution as a valid input resolution. You need to check the owner's manual for your display. If it won't accept it's native resolution (or something quite close to it) then try the 2 standard HDTV resolutions (720p and 1080i) and see which looks better when the display scales that to its native resolution internally. Also look for issues such as excessive loss of pixels around the edges of the image. If you can't see a difference, then use 720p to your 768p display so that the display's internal de-interlacer and scaler has the least amount of work to do.


If your display IS supposed to accept that 768p resolution as input, but it isn't working, then you may need to set up some custom video output timings using the Anthem Live Video Settings Editor application.

--Bob


----------



## metallicafreak

Thanks Bob, will do.

Anyother little problem, I have lost the ability to see the setup menu on my HDMI fed display. I only get the blue screen.

FREAK!


----------



## whitewolf1

Thanks for the info Bob! I have connected the hdmi cable directly from the projector to the HR20 with no degradation so I suspect I have an AVM50 problem. I do notice a note on startup saying the video is muted due to hdcp and I wonder this has any affect? I do have a 12' length on my hdmi cable and a wall plate. I did not have any problem for about a year til recently so unless hdmi is acting differently it appears to be with the AVM50. I will try the 480p sugesstion and see if it helps.

DJ


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *metallicafreak* /forum/post/12619188
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, will do.
> 
> Anyother little problem, I have lost the ability to see the setup menu on my HDMI fed display. I only get the blue screen.
> 
> FREAK!



Oh no.


Sounds to me like this is becoming a more common problem.


Do you get the setup menu occasionally, or never?


----------



## gblack

I know you can display the number of channels and the sampling rate of digital audio on the D2's front panel and OSD. Is there a way to see the bit depth? I have a new blu-ray player (Sony BDPS-500) and want to ensure I'm getting the most out of the new audio codecs.


thx guys


----------



## obie_fl

AFAIK there is no way to see the bit depth, although I and others have requested that function a few times in the past.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12622629
> 
> 
> I know you can display the number of channels and the sampling rate of digital audio on the D2's front panel and OSD. Is there a way to see the bit depth? I have a new blu-ray player (Sony BDPS-500) and want to ensure I'm getting the most out of the new audio codecs.
> 
> 
> thx guys



A little confused by how you think an OSD of bit depth will help ensure that you are getting more out of the codecs..... but I think the Sony will show you that information, and the D2 isn't truncating the PCM words over HDMI.


You can safely assume if you are listening to anything 96k (either PCM or decoded Ture HD, or DTS 96) it will be 24 bit... afaik, there hasn't been a piece of professional gear that can produce 16/96...


----------



## gblack

thx FilmMixer. The Sony doesn't decode DTS-MA. I have a BR movie encoded in that format. Sending bitstream sends the 1.5kbps stream to my D1-HD. Sending PCM shows 6-CH 48KHz. Is that what the core DTS audio file gets decoded as into LPCM? (which I believe the sony BR player will do with DTS-MA)


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *metallicafreak* /forum/post/12619188
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, will do.
> 
> Anyother little problem, I have lost the ability to see the setup menu on my HDMI fed display. I only get the blue screen.
> 
> FREAK!



Well I hope you didn't miss te undefeated season last game in HD on 4 networks.


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/12560054
> 
> 
> I am getting an error that says " VIDEO PROCESSOR uC FLASH programming failed(error code = 0x3066660a) I have tried several times to reflash, all other areas of the 1.21d firmware upgrade process seems to work except this last part, seems that this is an important part of the process, I havent [/b]even tried to see if my unit will work yet, any ideas?





well after unsuccesfully trying to load 1.21d Anthem sent me ver 1.20 which loaded successfully, the blue screens that I previously got when switching inputs previously never really bothered me since I would only get bluescreen/snow once or twice however now after the 1.20 update im getting more snow and bluescreens switching inputs, any one know if there is any difference between 1.20 and 1.121d?oh and by the way clicks and pops continue randomly.


Also is Anyone using the D2 with an anamorphic lens? I thought once I put the Anthem in anamorphic mode it would fill out the screen but I am still having to use the vertical crop feature in the scaler to get rid of the black bars,is this normal? also the vertical crop numbers needed to get rid of the black bars on the hdvd input are different than the input I have my ps3 on which makes me wonder if im losing tons of vertical resolution (I know you lose some in a scope setup) I have been using it this way ever since I started my scope setup using the D2 but im not sure if this is the correct way to get the desired anamorphic strech using the D2.


----------



## learflyer

I have a question about Bluray/HDDVD being output from the D2 to a 720P projector. Given the spectacular picture I'm getting from my standard DVD's being upscaled by the D2, am I likely to see a significant improvement by adding a Blu ray player to this setup? (I'm thinking of the PS3 but mainly for movies). Or would I be better off waiting until I upgrade my PJ to a 1080P model before getting into the Bluray/HDDVD players?


Assuming that the there is a noticeable improvement, would you send the D2 the full resolution (1080P) from the Blu ray and then let the scaler downgrade the output to 720P? I'm guessing that's the best way.


One other question; what is the fan noise level like on the PS3? I have a very quiet HT room and a noisy fan would be a deal breaker.


Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *learflyer* /forum/post/12629385
> 
> 
> I have a question about Bluray/HDDVD being output from the D2 to a 720P projector. Given the spectacular picture I'm getting from my standard DVD's being upscaled by the D2, am I likely to see a significant improvement by adding a Blu ray player to this setup? (I'm thinking of the PS3 but mainly for movies). Or would I be better off waiting until I upgrade my PJ to a 1080P model before getting into the Bluray/HDDVD players?
> 
> 
> Assuming that the there is a noticeable improvement, would you send the D2 the full resolution (1080P) from the Blu ray and then let the scaler downgrade the output to 720P? I'm guessing that's the best way.
> 
> 
> One other question; what is the fan noise level like on the PS3? I have a very quiet HT room and a noisy fan would be a deal breaker.
> 
> 
> Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks.



As a recent Blu-Ray buyer and owner of a 720p TV (768P plasma actually), I can definitely say there is a marked improvement in picture quality over DVD. So no need to wait for a 1080P projector. Put another way, a BR player with your current 720P projector will give a much better picture than your existing upconverted (by the D2) DVD player and a 1080P projector.


Whether you can see the difference of 720P and 1080P is a function of how close you sit to your screen and what the screen size is. For example my 50" TV from 10' away, the human eye can't discriminate the difference between 720P and 1080P.


As for how to hook up, yes, have the BR-player output "Source Direct" picture. Meaning if a BR disc is in, it will output 1080P, if a DVD is in the player it will output 480i and then use the scaler in the D2 to scale to your projectors NR. Also, you want the player to output BR movies as 24 FPS (which Source Direct mode will do). Then your D2 will perform the pull-down to make it 60 FPS for your projector.


As for fan noise, the newer (40 and 80 Gig) PS3's use a newer chipset that and run cooler than the original PS3. That being said, before I bought my BR player, a buddy lent me his PS3 and I couldn't hear it while watching a movie - and his is the original 60Gig model that runs hotter.


----------



## learflyer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12629605
> 
> 
> As a recent Blu-Ray buyer and owner of a 720p TV (768P plasma actually), I can definitely say there is a marked improvement in picture quality over DVD. So no need to wait for a 1080P projector. Put another way, a BR player with your current 720P projector will give a much better picture than your existing upconverted (by the D2) DVD player and a 1080P projector.
> 
> 
> 
> As for fan noise, the newer (40 and 80 Gig) PS3's use a newer chipset that and run cooler than the original PS3. That being said, before I bought my BR player, a buddy lent me his PS3 and I couldn't hear it while watching a movie - and his is the original 60Gig model that runs hotter.



Thanks for the quick response. Will likely head out to the stores and see if there are any PS3's left in the city.


----------



## Tim Winders

Hello all. Took a month hiatus from the forum... have actually been WATCHING movies. Go figure. ;-)


Read that last months worth of posts. Doesn't look like I've missed anything. No new firmware updates and Room EQ still isn't shipping.


I did get an 80GB PS3 from Xmas which I've told my family is ONLY for playing Bluray movies. So far they are going for it.  Oh, it's running [email protected] also.


We got a Wii for games. It's in the playroom connected to a 42" plasma which we mounted to the wall with a full motion mount. My wife wants to put the Wii, DVD player and VCR in the corner, opposite from the TV. I had to get a way to get video from everything to the TV. The simplest seemed to run a single long HDMI cable so I bought an inexpensive receiver with HDMI ports... got the Integra 5.8 for this tast. Unfortunatley, audio wouldn't pass over HDMI to the TV so I had to connect a pair of cheap speakers I had available. Will add more speakers later.


In the main theater room, haven't experimented much with Bluray. I play to watch Cars tonight. Supposed to be reference quality. Did get the Harry Potter deluxe box set on BR. We watched some choice scenes and everyone agrees it's not much different than we had before. My oldest son's comment is "Bluray is a ripoff". LOL. Speaks volumes for how good the D2 actually is!


Also got a Harmony 880 remote. Wow. I'm impressed. Highly recommended!


----------



## ddimberio

Why can't I get my component video to work on my main output. I am running version 1.2 on my D2. Up to date, I have been running HDMI as my main output to my display - JVC RS-1.


So, for my video output 1 configuration on the D2, I selected component 1080i/60 - no display. I must be doing something obviously wrong - and yes - I did change the input signal on the JVC to component. I did NOT make any other changes on the D2 - someone please tell my what I am doing wrong. Much Thanks, DD


----------



## airboyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12594925
> 
> 
> Just the D2 (with it's extra "horsepower").



Does anyone know if upgraded D1's will be able to use the microphone upgrade? That will really affect the price of used D1's.


----------



## Doright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12618941
> 
> 
> Good job figuring out the switch was the problem.
> 
> 
> Not every display will accept its true native resolution as a valid input resolution. You need to check the owner's manual for your display. If it won't accept it's native resolution (or something quite close to it) then try the 2 standard HDTV resolutions (720p and 1080i) and see which looks better when the display scales that to its native resolution internally. Also look for issues such as excessive loss of pixels around the edges of the image. If you can't see a difference, then use 720p to your 768p display so that the display's internal de-interlacer and scaler has the least amount of work to do.
> 
> 
> If your display IS supposed to accept that 768p resolution as input, but it isn't working, then you may need to set up some custom video output timings using the Anthem Live Video Settings Editor application.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Well I thought it was the HDMI switch but apparently it's not.

Since the upgrade I've had problems syncing to my display - especially when the D2 is cold. So I completely removed the switch and thought everything was Ok. This afternoon I turn on the system and no display.


I have 2 Tivo boxes hooked up, one via HDMI and the other one component. I have a single HDMI cable going directly to the Plasma.


I was able to go into setup, using the s-video connection to my plasma, and tried a few different resolutions. When I switched it back to the way it was I finally got a picture (after about 15 minutes of playing with it).


This upgrade really messed things up. Any other ideas?


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd* /forum/post/12641059
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if upgraded D1's will be able to use the microphone upgrade? That will really affect the price of used D1's.



There's no reason why not. A D1-HD is identical to a D2.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *learflyer* /forum/post/12629385
> 
> 
> I have a question about Bluray/HDDVD being output from the D2 to a 720P projector. Given the spectacular picture I'm getting from my standard DVD's being upscaled by the D2, am I likely to see a significant improvement by adding a Blu ray player to this setup? (I'm thinking of the PS3 but mainly for movies). Or would I be better off waiting until I upgrade my PJ to a 1080P model before getting into the Bluray/HDDVD players?
> 
> 
> Assuming that the there is a noticeable improvement, would you send the D2 the full resolution (1080P) from the Blu ray and then let the scaler downgrade the output to 720P? I'm guessing that's the best way.
> 
> 
> One other question; what is the fan noise level like on the PS3? I have a very quiet HT room and a noisy fan would be a deal breaker.
> 
> 
> Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks.



OH YEAH, you will notice a BIG difference in HD-DVD and Blu-ray on a 720p projector! ( assuming you are not seated unusually far from an unusually small projector screen). There are a few HD movies that didn't convert very well, but most of them look far better than the SD version, especially on a bigger screen you typically have with a projector. I have a D2 and a 720p projector shooting to a 126" diagonal 2.37 screen, and it's NIGHT and DAY better! And yes, output 1080p to the D2, and native 720p to your projector. Lastly, I have a 40g PS3 and it is very quiet.


----------



## buckley44

Having problems with handshake between the a35 & d2, i keep getting green screen while watching movies, as of now i have hd-a35 set to componet to the d2, then hdmi to my sony sxrd-60a2000,with no problems but when set to hdmi to the d2 i always have picture dropouts,


hd-a35 set to 1080i resolution

d2 set to 1080p output

sony-native 1080p

optical-audio


When i set up for hdmi outputs-video & audio

hd-a35-1080p

d2-1080p output

hdmi repeater-no

RESULT - PICTURE DROP OUT


Can any one give me a suggestion-1st time on forum


Anthem d2

p5- surrounds

classe cam 400 monoblocs-fronts

ps3

hd-a35

oppo 970:


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/12642183
> 
> 
> Having problems with handshake between the a35 & d2, i keep getting green screen while watching movies, as of now i have hd-a35 set to componet to the d2, then hdmi to my sony sxrd-60a2000,with no problems but when set to hdmi to the d2 i always have picture dropouts,



Welcome to the forum - and nice gear BTW










Have you tried a different HDMI cable? Also I would try a different input HDMI jack just to rule out a jack problem on the D2. Make sure in your source config settings, you've got the HDMI input correctly specified when viewing your A35. And I would recommend disconnecting the component cables from the A35 while you do this. Also, I would make sure your firmware is up to date on your A35.


----------



## buckley44

Thank you for the response

Yes i have tried another cable and input,and i have selected hdmi in set up, and 2 days ago i downloaded version 1.3 in a-35 & v. 1.21d in the d2.Had the same problem with the ps3 until i did new update.Yesterday i rebooted the a-35 and got half way through the movie with no problems via hdmi then all of a sudden i started loosing my picture every few minutes.


----------



## Kensmith48

Some but not all of the dvd's I've watched lately have an aqua background color to them. I was wondering if anyone else had this experience before I check the D2 and all the component cables. The dvd's with the aqua color are Pirates #3, Bourne Ultimatum, Die Hard #4, and some in The Transformers. I've popped in the 5th Element just to check things and it looks ok, so I'm not sure what to check next.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/12646563
> 
> 
> Some but not all of the dvd's I've watched lately have an aqua background color to them. I was wondering if anyone else had this experience before I check the D2 and all the component cables. The dvd's with the aqua color are Pirates #3, Bourne Ultimatum, Die Hard #4, and some in The Transformers. I've popped in the 5th Element just to check things and it looks ok, so I'm not sure what to check next.




What display do you have ?


----------



## Kensmith48

A calibrated Pioneer 710 RPTV.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/12646814
> 
> 
> A calibrated Pioneer 710 RPTV.



OK

I thought maybe you had a Sony SXRD. Many, including the Qualia 006 are having problems with the Optical Block and the screen turns green.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/12642481
> 
> 
> Thank you for the response
> 
> Yes i have tried another cable and input,and i have selected hdmi in set up, and 2 days ago i downloaded version 1.3 in a-35 & v. 1.21d in the d2.Had the same problem with the ps3 until i did new update.Yesterday i rebooted the a-35 and got half way through the movie with no problems via hdmi then all of a sudden i started loosing my picture every few minutes.



You could have an A35 problem. I have an A35 and have no issues. I send 1080p24 to the D2 via HDMI. If it's a display issue, most likely all your sources would seem to have issues.


larry


----------



## buckley44

The a-35 is the only componet i have the issue with,maybe i'll try connecting it directley to my sony sxrd 60a2000 via hdmi & optical, that would rule out the display, then it would leave the d2 handshake or a problem with the a-35


----------



## bluemark81

Can someone explain how to use/adjust the "Scale Out" settings of the OSD?


Gamma Correction Exponential;

Gamma Correction Custom Sngl;

Gamma Correction Custom RGB;

Gamma Correction Off;

Frame Lock.


Thanks


----------



## Nevr2Big

Daughter got a karaoke device as gift and I'm trying to hook it up to my D2 with poor results.


It has composite RCA outs (red/white/yellow) for L-R audio and video. When I hook it up to the VCR inputs I get audio but no video. I realize that composite video may not be processed by the D2 but isn't there a way to have it pass thru and display? There are 7 composite video inputs - I can't believe these are all dummy inputs and do nothing. I went into menus and made sure that composite video was selected - still nothing. I am running HDMI from D2 to projector and am guessing that this is one of the problems. Any tips on how to get this thing to work?


Santa has come and gone, but now there's a clown in the family room and it is me. Help, please.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/12651584
> 
> 
> Daughter got a karaoke device as gift and I'm trying to hook it up to my D2 with poor results.
> 
> 
> It has composite RCA outs (red/white/yellow) for L-R audio and video. When I hook it up to the VCR inputs I get audio but no video. I realize that composite video may not be processed by the D2 but isn't there a way to have it pass thru and display? There are 7 composite video inputs - I can't believe these are all dummy inputs and do nothing. I went into menus and made sure that composite video was selected - still nothing. I am running HDMI from D2 to projector and am guessing that this is one of the problems. Any tips on how to get this thing to work?
> 
> 
> Santa has come and gone, but now there's a clown in the family room and it is me. Help, please.



Did you go into the setup menu and set it up to use the composite video?


----------



## Nevr2Big




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12651622
> 
> 
> Did you go into the setup menu and set it up to use the composite video?



Yes. Set all else to "none" and composite in assigned to "video". Even tried putting the input into the Aux composite video in and reassigning input from this RCA jack, with no success.


As I'm running HDMI out of the D2 to the proj, I guess there may be a problem passing thru this video but dont know for sure. I'm toying with getting a RCA-to-Svideo converter and tricking D2 into processing the signal and pass on to HDMI. Hope to hear from someone who has figured this one out already before going on a wild goose chase and getting the kid's hopes up again!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nevr2Big* /forum/post/12651888
> 
> 
> Yes. Set all else to "none" and composite in assigned to "video". Even tried putting the input into the Aux composite video in and reassigning input from this RCA jack, with no success.
> 
> 
> As I'm running HDMI out of the D2 to the proj, I guess there may be a problem passing thru this video but dont know for sure. I'm toying with getting a RCA-to-Svideo converter and tricking D2 into processing the signal and pass on to HDMI. Hope to hear from someone who has figured this one out already before going on a wild goose chase and getting the kid's hopes up again!



The D2 does not process Composite video inputs. That means to see it as output you have to run an RCA video cable from the D2's Main Composite video output to a Composite video input on your TV. The D2 only "switches" unprocessed Composite video input to its Composite video output.


See Section 2.1 of the Manual.


If you can get S-video input from your source then the D2 can process that, if not there are very inexpensive Composite to S-video converters you can put in-line between the Composite video input cable and an S-Video input for the D2 so that the D2 can process that input source to your HDMI output. Do not expect great image quality.

---Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12650865
> 
> 
> Can someone explain how to use/adjust the "Scale Out" settings of the OSD?
> 
> 
> Gamma Correction Exponential;
> 
> Gamma Correction Custom Sngl;
> 
> Gamma Correction Custom RGB;
> 
> Gamma Correction Off;
> 
> Frame Lock.
> 
> 
> Thanks



The Scale Out settings are discussed in the "Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling" section of links collected in the first post of this thread.


Gamma Correction is a tricky subject. To use the flexibility offered in the Anthems will require some study and the use of a light sensor during setup.


I suggest you explore the Video Calibration forum here.


Simply put, Gamma Correction deals with the inherent non-linearity of brightness response of real-world displays. CRT screen TVs are roughly logarithmic in their response so source content is adjusted to expect that. Newer displays need to be Gamma Corrected to respond "like" a CRT. Some display technologies (and brands) do this better than others, and the Anthem provides tools for helping such displays to get it right. Another common way to think of Gamma Correction is that Brightness controls Black levels, Contrast controls white levels, and Gamma controls the perceived smoothness of gray ramps in between.


The eye is VERY sensitive to incorrect Gamma. Proper Gamma adds a lot to the naturalness of the imaging. Unfortunately, Gamma is almost impossible to adjust well by eye. It really takes a properly used light sensor. So without that, and some study to understand what is going on, it is best to leave the Gamma stuff alone.


Frame Lock is best set to OFF with the new (V1.20 or later) software. It has proven too obnoxious to live with the HDMI imaging sync delays inherent in tracking source frame rates to the Anthem output. It has been replaced by the two Video Output configurations in this newer Anthem software -- i.e., you set up one for /60Hz output and another for /24Hz output and then use overlayed inputs in the Anthem so that you will use the correct Video Output according to what you are trying to watch from a given source.

--Bob


----------



## christiandumas

The upsampling capability of the D2 seems to be the most important feature over the AV50. At least on the spec sheet...


Could someone clarify what it is and for what application?


My idea is that it is useful only for analog input like CD Am I right?


Trying to decide between the D2 and the AV50...


Thank's

Christ


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christiandumas* /forum/post/12654247
> 
> 
> The upsampling capability of the D2 seems to be the most important feature over the AV50. At least on the spec sheet...
> 
> 
> Could someone clarify what it is and for what application?
> 
> 
> My idea is that it is useful only for analog input like CD Am I right?
> 
> 
> Trying to decide between the D2 and the AV50...
> 
> 
> Thank's
> 
> Christ



Actually it probably applies even more to digital audio input, since analog audio input has an extra conversion to digital in the signal path.


This post may help:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4post8079464 


In addition to the upsampling (and audio output DACs to match), and a bare handful of other feature differences spelled out in Anthem's comparison chart, the D2 has a better power supply than the AVM-50 and has spare DSP processing power which will be used in the Room EQ upgrade due out "real soon now".


The AVM-50 is a fine audio processor with excellent video capabilities. The D2 is more in the "exotic" class of audio processor, and with the identical video processing as the AVM-50.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

Hi guys Happy New Year.


Haven't visited this thread in a couple months. How is everyone.


My HT is in storage waiting on a delayed loft (well everything except my D2 which I carry in a backpack with me constantly with an armed guard for protection ;-) ).


A couple Questions based on your experiences and what works best with the D2.


1, Given that I have the D2 and the 1080p 65" DLP (HP Pavilion), but will be moving to a front projector at some point in the next few months. Whichever projector I get it will be 1080p and accept 24fps I assume (Suggestions welcome. The Panasonic's seem to be getting great reviews and comparisons on Projector Central). Projector and screen suggestions? I have done almost no research on screens yet. Type, optimal size etc.


2, I currently have a early HD-A1 and it is slowly getting a little more and more quirky. Nothing I cannot live with, but I wouldn't mind a new sleeker box with a little smoother operation assuming such exists lol.


I am also getting pretty close to going neutral as I had suggested earlier. Just don't feel like waiting any longer for what clearly appears to be a longer term fight to end. I just want to enjoy the movies.


If I wanted to update my HD-A1 and get into BR which unit(s) would you suggest. I would prefer one unit, but would not sacrifice any performance and easily take one for each instead of a quirky sub-par machine.


So what do I get? Is there anything on the BR side that is at least a stable fully functional profile 1.1 (Other than the PS3 which I am really not interested in putting in my stack).


I should and will ask the same on the HD forums, but I am asking here in case there are any D2 specific considerations (which are obviously the most important hahaa).


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Guys,


I currently have the D2 set to output two resoltions... 1080p60 for the pioneer plasma and 720p60 for the infocus 7205.


Problem... whenever I switch inputs say tv to pj or dvd etc on the d2 the output setting changes back to setting 1. Bascially, if I set the output say the second option of 720p60 and I turn of the D2 or switch sources etc. the D2 switches back to ouput setting number 1 of 1080p60. very annoying.


Anyone else have this problem? Is this normal for the D2 at this point?


----------



## PooperScooper

With the latest firmware you can associate a source device with one of the two output settings. I think the default is "last" (used). Have you set your source devices to a specific output (Output 1 or Output 2)?


larry


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/12658658
> 
> 
> If I wanted to update my HD-A1 and get into BR which unit(s) would you suggest. I would prefer one unit, but would not sacrifice any performance and easily take one for each instead of a quirky sub-par machine.



I wouldn't presume to advise anyone as to what to get, but I can tell you what I have and how they work with the D2. I currently have an HD-A35 (which replaced an A-20 which replaced an A-1), and a PS3.


The A-35 is adequate, slow response (but fast compared to an A-1), and the initial power-on HDMI sync with the D2 is a little quirky at times.


I bought my PS3 when it first came out as an "interim" BD player (don't game with it at all), planning to replace it with a gen 2 dedicated BD player. I've found nothing better so I still have the PS3 and am very happy with everything except the lack of an IR remote (although there is a kludge solution discussed elsewhere in the forums). The PS3 initially had problems with the D2, but those were resolved by Anthem several firmware generations ago. The level of support (updates) that Sony puts into the PS3 is incredible. It has enough HP and a huge installed base which together allow Sony to invest in updates rather than abandoning it for a new series every 9-12 months (like Toshiba is doing to me, now that I think about it). The PQ and SQ are excellent, and it is very responsive (just like a SD DVD player). I have it in my rack with a Middle Atlantic custom rackshelf which is aesthetically acceptable.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/12659754
> 
> 
> I still have the PS3 and am very happy with everything except the lack of an IR remote (although there is a kludge solution discussed elsewhere in the forums).



Any chance you could find the link to that kludge

solution? There is two companies with IR remotes

now for the PS3 - but their only commands are

for playing DVDs. And Certainly no power up or

down options.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12659844
> 
> 
> Any chance you could find the link to that kludge
> 
> solution? There is two companies with IR remotes
> 
> now for the PS3 - but their only commands are
> 
> for playing DVDs. And Certainly no power up or
> 
> down options.



Just a reference -- as I don't have it I can't vouch for it. If you go for it, let the rest of us know how it works. If you find it satisfactory, that's a pretty good endorsement


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/12660043
> 
> 
> Just a reference -- as I don't have it I can't vouch for it. If you go for it, let the rest of us know how it works. If you find it satisfactory, that's a pretty good endorsement



I have the schmartz IR receiver for the PS3. I have the non-PWR version. I leave the PS3 on all the time running [email protected], so I don't care to be able to power it off via IR.


The schmartz IR receiver works great. It's not a kludge at all. it looks great and works even better. I use it with my Harmony 880 remote control. In the 880 setup, I just selected the PS2 as the Game console with DVD, then had to do a bit of modification to tell it to use the dvd control buttons, but after 5 minutes it worked perfectly. I'm very happy with it as an IR solution (as is my wife, even more important!) and the PS3 as a general DVD and BR player.


----------



## buckley44

Hey pooper scooper, i connected the hd-a35 to my display today via hdmi with no problems so it has to be a problem between the hd-a35 & the d2,any suggestions anyone?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/12660043
> 
> 
> Just a reference -- as I don't have it I can't vouch for it. If you go for it, let the rest of us know how it works. If you find it satisfactory, that's a pretty good endorsement



Thanks for that LINK.


----------



## belarocks

I was hoping to get a little setup guidance (utilizing HDMI) on my soon to be upgraded Anthem - My goal is to set each of my video sources (directv, dvd, etc) to get the full benefit of the video processor - Anthem is currently upgrading my AVM-20 to an AVM-20 HD (same as the AVM-50).


My primary two concerns are for my 1) directv (HD DVR) tuner and 2) DVD player. Based on what I have read from this forum I was going to do the following for the directv input - 1) set the directv tuner to output native in all formats (480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i) and set the Anthem to output my display's (Samsung DLP) native picture format of 1080p/60. I was anticipating setting my DVD to the following - 2) set the DVD player to output 480i only and set the Anthem in a similar fashion to #1 above.


Thanks in advance for your input -


----------



## ely123

I emailed Anthem concerning the price increase of the D2. This is their

response. Just FYI.


The price of the D2 has gone up officially as of Jan 1 2008 but the increase also includes the new Room Correction System calibration (microphone and software).

New pricing for D2 is $7499


Thanks


Anthem


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ely123* /forum/post/12671803
> 
> 
> I emailed Anthem concerning the price increase of the D2. This is their
> 
> response. Just FYI.
> 
> 
> The price of the D2 has gone up officially as of Jan 1 2008 but the increase also includes the new Room Correction System calibration (microphone and software).
> 
> New pricing for D2 is $7499
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Anthem



Bad News: price increase


Good News: Room Correction is HERE!


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *belarocks* /forum/post/12667234
> 
> 
> I was hoping to get a little setup guidance (utilizing HDMI) on my soon to be upgraded Anthem - My goal is to set each of my video sources (directv, dvd, etc) to get the full benefit of the video processor - Anthem is currently upgrading my AVM-20 to an AVM-20 HD (same as the AVM-50).
> 
> 
> My primary two concerns are for my 1) directv (HD DVR) tuner and 2) DVD player. Based on what I have read from this forum I was going to do the following for the directv input - 1) set the directv tuner to output native in all formats (480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i) and set the Anthem to output my display's (Samsung DLP) native picture format of 1080p/60. I was anticipating setting my DVD to the following - 2) set the DVD player to output 480i only and set the Anthem in a similar fashion to #1 above.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for your input -



I have a similar setup. My only advice is to use component cables from your DVR to the Anthem unit. Using HDMI is an exercise in masochism due to the HDMI handshaking headbanging they tend to go through resulting in FREQUENTLY lost signals. Going to component eliminated the problem. I am still going HDMI from Anthem to TV.


good luck

-Ravi


----------



## jayray

A quick question for anyone using a ps3 with the AVM50. I just tried a BD with 7.1 LPCM. The anthem showed 6.1 going in. Is it the ps3 that cannot output the 7.1 or the anthem that can't accept it. I used the THX Ultra2 setup to output 7 channels and it sounds good but I am curious about why no 7.1 in.

thanks,

John


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/12672041
> 
> 
> A quick question for anyone using a ps3 with the AVM50. I just tried a BD with 7.1 LPCM. The anthem showed 6.1 going in. Is it the ps3 that cannot output the 7.1 or the anthem that can't accept it. I used the THX Ultra2 setup to output 7 channels and it sounds good but I am curious about why no 7.1 in.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



The D2/AVM50 can accept up to six channels (i.e., 5.1) of PCM over HDMI.


See: http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...stions_PDS.pdf


----------



## jayray

Seems odd that I can output 7.1 but not through pcm input. Am I expecting too much from my preamp to have 7.1 given the price we pay for it? I realize that we are paying for more than just pcm output but it is still a little disappointing that so quickly there is something I can't do that may be more prevalent with future titles.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12671998
> 
> 
> Good News: Room Correction is HERE!



Ya got that right. BOING!


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/12674322
> 
> 
> Seems odd that I can output 7.1 but not through pcm input. Am I expecting too much from my preamp to have 7.1 given the price we pay for it? I realize that we are paying for more than just pcm output but it is still a little disappointing that so quickly there is something I can't do that may be more prevalent with future titles.



Unfortunately it's true. I'm not sure there are any "true" 7.1 discrete sources yet. It seems that Xmen 3 has it but it wasn't clear from the review I read if it really was all discrete channels. You can still take the 5.1 input in the D2 and use something like ProLogic IIx to synthesize the 7.1 output, but it isn't discrete 7.1.


I remember not too long ago it was common to see posts here claiming that hdmi 1.3 was unnecessary because hidef players weren't "allowed" to put out the undecoded truehd or dtshdma. Funny how that turned out to be WRONG! They can do it (although it means you lose some features such as the "beeps" etc... when navigating menus). I must say I was considering that new Integra 9.8 ssp, which cost less than my upgrade from D1 to D2 status, but at the end of the day...I still have the awesome performance and luxury status (heh) of the Anthem ssp! (insert happy bouncy mascot here!)


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/12674978
> 
> 
> I remember not too long ago it was common to see posts here claiming that hdmi 1.3 was unnecessary because hidef players weren't "allowed" to put out the undecoded truehd or dtshdma. Funny how that turned out to be WRONG! They can do it (although it means you lose some features such as the "beeps" etc... when navigating menus). I must say I was considering that new Integra 9.8 ssp, which cost less than my upgrade from D1 to D2 status, but at the end of the day...I still have the awesome performance and luxury status (heh) of the Anthem ssp! (insert happy bouncy mascot here!)



Bogg, get your facts straight please. HDMI 1.3 is still unnecessary, just like many of us pointed out, but not for the reasons you sight. It is not that players wouldn't be "allowed" to output the undecoded TrueHD or DTSHD. There was never any doubt that they would eventually be allowed to output these streams. The issue is that there is absolutely no advantage to decoding in the preamp rather than decoding in the disc player. Contrary to your claim, it is YOU that are wrong, and Dolby and DTS still agree with Anthem and others on this very point.


Again, I encourage anyone who is confused on this to read the public whitepapers from the encoders themselves, you will see that they assert this very same thing - www.dts.com and www.dolby.com . I have posted the exact links in the past, you can find them if you search this thread.


I am growing tired of the absolute marketing snow-job that Bogg and others are falling victim to. Do your research, know your facts, and don't propagate the snow-job which only servers to confuse and mis-inform others.


Oh, and enjoy the D2/AVM50...by the way, am I the only one that thinks that the Dolby TrueHD track on Spiderman 3 was absolutely perfect?! God I love my D2 with HDMI 1.1...


-Brian


----------



## EL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/12672041
> 
> 
> A quick question for anyone using a ps3 with the AVM50. I just tried a BD with 7.1 LPCM. The anthem showed 6.1 going in. Is it the ps3 that cannot output the 7.1 or the anthem that can't accept it. I used the THX Ultra2 setup to output 7 channels and it sounds good but I am curious about why no 7.1 in.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



This is a limitation of the Motorola 56367 DSP (x2) used.

as more and more title has 7.1 now (this is after all the max channel allowed by BD and HDDVD, it's just normal to see it happen, as more ch the better







)

I find this limitation bugging me and questioning the features I want in a preamp.


I'm happy with the D2 but this is still there bugging me, it's the only missing thing to say I don't need HDMI 1.3


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/12676523
> 
> 
> Bogg, get your facts straight please. HDMI 1.3 is still unnecessary, just like many of us pointed out, but not for the reasons you sight. It is not that players wouldn't be "allowed" to output the undecoded TrueHD or DTSHD. There was never any doubt that they would eventually be allowed to output these streams. The issue is that there is absolutely no advantage to decoding in the preamp rather than decoding in the disc player. Contrary to your claim, it is YOU that are wrong, and Dolby and DTS still agree with Anthem and others on this very point.
> 
> 
> Again, I encourage anyone who is confused on this to read the public whitepapers from the encoders themselves, you will see that they assert this very same thing - www.dts.com and www.dolby.com . I have posted the exact links in the past, you can find them if you search this thread.
> 
> 
> I am growing tired of the absolute marketing snow-job that Bogg and others are falling victim to. Do your research, know your facts, and don't propagate the snow-job which only servers to confuse and mis-inform others.
> 
> 
> Oh, and enjoy the D2/AVM50...by the way, am I the only one that thinks that the Dolby TrueHD track on Spiderman 3 was absolutely perfect?! God I love my D2 with HDMI 1.1...
> 
> 
> -Brian



Relax man with a plan. No need for the childish retort. We're not falling victim to anything. Done my research and happy with my conclusions. Go back and read the earlier posts in the thread and you'll see that one of the reasons given for the lack of need for hdmi 1.3 was that players would not be "allowed" to put out bitstream hbr output. Obviously that is not true, but it was thought to be the case in the past. I don't really care about that either because I'm sure that sooner or later there will be players that can internally decode all of the formats.


Next time you get the urge to post a response...take a step back, breathe and then type if you must.


----------



## buddy4711

I have a Statement D2 (besides some other stuff) and a Phillips Pronto 9400 (which is said to be similar/same as the 9600) and have some difficulties to integrate the proper codes. On the Anthem page are 2 download files but these files look like to work rather with the AVM20/30 lines than with the D2??? Can someone explain which files to take for the Pronto 9400/9600? thanks


----------



## belarocks

I am considering upgrading my current display to one of the newer Samsung DLP (HLT series). It is my understanding that this series has a native display of 1080p/120.


I have a couple of questions about the relationship between the AVM and the display:


1) If I were to use this display I assume that I would set the output of the AVM to 1080p/60 - based on that setup would the signal from the AVM be fully reprocessed by the DLP?


2)Or just the refresh rate from 60 to 120?


3)Would this setup defeat the whole purpose of using the AVM's powerful video processing?


Thanks in advance for your input


----------



## Jim E.

For those of you who want to know what the price increases are for Anthem here they are. The parenthetical is the dollar increase.


AVM 30: $2999.00 (N/C)

AVM 40: $3999.00 (+200)

AVM 50: $4999.00 (+200)

PVA 2: $899.00 (+100)

PVA 5: $1499.00 (+100)

PVA 7: $1999.00 (+100)

MCA 20: $1399.00 (+100)

MCA 30: $1699.00 (+200)

MCA 50: $2499.00 (+100)

D2: $7499.00 (+700) Includes Anthem Room Correction (ARC)

P2: $3499.00 (+200)

P5: $6999.00 (+500)

A2: $1699.00 (+200)

A5: $2999.00 (+200)



NOTE: The D2 room correction is NOT available yet. Estimate for availability is approximately 4-6 weeks.


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/12677960
> 
> 
> I have a Statement D2 (besides some other stuff) and a Phillips Pronto 9400 (which is said to be similar/same as the 9600) and have some difficulties to integrate the proper codes. On the Anthem page are 2 download files but these files look like to work rather with the AVM20/30 lines than with the D2??? Can someone explain which files to take for the Pronto 9400/9600? thanks



I don't believe the files on the Anthem site, are the latest and greatest. They are however great starting points, seems to me I had to add the Video side of the equation when I did my 9600.


Have you tried this site, they have a large collection of user grenerated config files for the remotes that includes the D2/AVM50. Just do a search for the equipment in the files area.
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...topro/list.cgi 


Edited to add:

As far as the Audio side goes, it appears that the IR codes are identical model to model.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/12677238
> 
> 
> Relax man with a plan. No need for the childish retort. We're not falling victim to anything. Done my research and happy with my conclusions. Go back and read the earlier posts in the thread and you'll see that one of the reasons given for the lack of need for hdmi 1.3 was that players would not be "allowed" to put out bitstream hbr output. Obviously that is not true, but it was thought to be the case in the past. I don't really care about that either because I'm sure that sooner or later there will be players that can internally decode all of the formats.
> 
> 
> Next time you get the urge to post a response...take a step back, breathe and then type if you must.



I don't need recommendations about how/when to post from you Bogg. If you cared about accuracy of posting and the information you propagate, you would not bring up a supposed argument that was already proven long ago to be false. You should have been much clearer about the point you were making - why exactly would you bring up an old false argument that you knew was false and total misinformation, admit that it's false but then NOT make sure to make it clear that the conclusion made was at least correct, just not for the reasons this apparent old poster claimed. Your post leaves it unclear whether you believe that one point was totally wrong or whether the conclusion drawn from it was totally wrong, or both. It is sloppy practice at best, especially in a technical thread. Your post shows you walking this lame fence of positioning that maybe HDMI 1.3 for audio has an advantage because after all, somebody made a lame argument about 1.1 once upon a time, and boy was that proven false! But then you backpeddle by saying 'oh well, it's good that i have the Anthem anyway'. When you chose to use a complete red herring point about someone's long ago proven incorrect assumption about player decoding, what relevance does that have to your point? Absolutely none, so don't use it. Or at least be clear with people on the conclusion being right, just not for the reasons that some old poster made.


Very sloppy way of posting. It seems that you are somehow implying that because some old assumptions were wrong, then these new ones could be wrong too! It is a form of spreading FUD (fear, uncertainty and doubt) that is not appropriate when many folks come here to learn what they should care about when buying an SSP. The fact is that using HDMI 1.3's ability to decode high bit rate audio in an SSP/preamp/receiver vs. decoding that high bit rate audio in the disc player poses absolutely no advantage from an audio quality standpoint (and you actually lose some functionality). This point is not coming from some joker posting uneducated old nonsense arguments, it is coming from the very companies that invented these lossless audio formats themselves! Dolby, DTS, etc etc. It is potentially confusing to new members/lurkers/those who might not be aware of the differences in decoding and featuresets of the D2 vs. other SSP's. Keep in mind new readers that are looking for advice in this and other threads. If you go back and read your posting and consider it from the eyes of a new, uninformed potential consumer, you will see that it is very possible (even likely) to take from it that player-side decoding is somehow inferior to preamp-side decoding. That of course is not the case. In fact, as you begrudgingly admit, decoding in the preamp a la HDMI 1.3 actually has a nasty side-effect of eliminating things like interactive language track selection *in addition to* the fact that it poses no audio quality advantage.


Tighten up your game Bogg - that was a sloppy post and you should/could have been much clearer for our newer members/users.


Brian


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12678362
> 
> 
> 
> NOTE: The D2 room correction is NOT available yet. Estimate for availability is approximately 4-6 weeks.



I have waited a year, so 4-6 weeks is like nothing.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/12679831
> 
> 
> I don't need recommendations about how/when to post from you Bogg. If you cared about accuracy of posting and the information you propagate, you would not bring up a supposed argument that was already proven long ago to be false. You should have been much clearer about the point you were making - why exactly would you bring up an old false argument that you knew was false and total misinformation, admit that it's false but then NOT make sure to make it clear that the conclusion made was at least correct, just not for the reasons this apparent old poster claimed. Your post leaves it unclear whether you believe that one point was totally wrong or whether the conclusion drawn from it was totally wrong, or both. It is sloppy practice at best, especially in a technical thread. Your post shows you walking this lame fence of positioning that maybe HDMI 1.3 for audio has an advantage because after all, somebody made a lame argument about 1.1 once upon a time, and boy was that proven false! But then you backpeddle by saying 'oh well, it's good that i have the Anthem anyway'. When you chose to use a complete red herring point about someone's long ago proven incorrect assumption about player decoding, what relevance does that have to your point? Absolutely none, so don't use it. Or at least be clear with people on the conclusion being right, just not for the reasons that some old poster made.
> 
> 
> Very sloppy way of posting. It seems that you are somehow implying that because some old assumptions were wrong, then these new ones could be wrong too! It is a form of spreading FUD (fear, uncertainty and doubt) that is not appropriate when many folks come here to learn what they should care about when buying an SSP. The fact is that using HDMI 1.3's ability to decode high bit rate audio in an SSP/preamp/receiver vs. decoding that high bit rate audio in the disc player poses absolutely no advantage from an audio quality standpoint (and you actually lose some functionality). This point is not coming from some joker posting uneducated old nonsense arguments, it is coming from the very companies that invented these lossless audio formats themselves! Dolby, DTS, etc etc. It is potentially confusing to new members/lurkers/those who might not be aware of the differences in decoding and featuresets of the D2 vs. other SSP's. Keep in mind new readers that are looking for advice in this and other threads. If you go back and read your posting and consider it from the eyes of a new, uninformed potential consumer, you will see that it is very possible (even likely) to take from it that player-side decoding is somehow inferior to preamp-side decoding. That of course is not the case. In fact, as you begrudgingly admit, decoding in the preamp a la HDMI 1.3 actually has a nasty side-effect of eliminating things like interactive language track selection *in addition to* the fact that it poses no audio quality advantage.
> 
> 
> Tighten up your game Bogg - that was a sloppy post and you should/could have been much clearer for our newer members/users.
> 
> 
> Brian



Guy's


Lets keep this thread clean, and to the point! Play nice it is Friday!!


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12680089
> 
> 
> Guy's
> 
> 
> Lets keep this thread clean, and to the point! Play nice it is Friday!!



I second your motion and say we resolve to play nice for the new year!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12680089
> 
> 
> Guy's
> 
> 
> Lets keep this thread clean, and to the point! Play nice it is Friday!!



+1


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12672987
> 
> 
> The D2/AVM50 can accept up to six channels (i.e., 5.1) of PCM over HDMI.
> 
> 
> See: http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...stions_PDS.pdf



Are you sure theyre saying the D2's *limit* is 5.1 or just that it supports what is *mandatory* on HD optical formats? It's two very different things...


8-channel 24/192 audio is supported in the HDMI 1.0 (and subsequently the HDMI 1.1) spec.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

I don't know what I am happier about right now: the fact that Anthem's room correction will be released in 4-6 weeks, or the fact that Warner Bros has gone Blu-ray exclusive, which should bring an end to the format war (before too long).


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/12684049
> 
> 
> Are you sure theyre saying the D2's *limit* is 5.1 or just that it supports what is *mandatory* on HD optical formats? It's two very different things...
> 
> 
> 8-channel 24/192 audio is supported in the HDMI 1.0 (and subsequently the HDMI 1.1) spec.



I always understood that the limit was 5.1.


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12684176
> 
> 
> I always understood that the limit was 5.1.



Well if the wiki article is to be believed, HDMI 1.0 is 7.1, 24/192 capable.


If the D2 doesnt support this, then i dont know how they can say its HDMI 1.1 (or 1.0) capable, and the decision to not include 7.1 analog ins now looms larger.


I love my D2 (and the D1 before it) so i hope this isnt the case.


EDIT: Sadly, true. Page 9 (17 on the pdf) of the manual, 6 channels only.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/12677960
> 
> 
> I have a Statement D2 (besides some other stuff) and a Phillips Pronto 9400 (which is said to be similar/same as the 9600) and have some difficulties to integrate the proper codes. On the Anthem page are 2 download files but these files look like to work rather with the AVM20/30 lines than with the D2??? Can someone explain which files to take for the Pronto 9400/9600? thanks



I have a D2. I have been using a Pronto TSU7000 & TSU7500 for a while now. The TSU7000/TSU7500 PCF can be imported into a TSU9400 XCF. My TSU7000 PCF is here:

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...angoba_pro.zip 


I got the remote codes originally from Anthem's web site, but later made some minor changes. The graphics are specifically for the TSU7x000.


I just got a TSU9400 recently, and have imported this PCF to my TSU9400. My TSU7x000 PCF imported pretty well into the TSU9400, but I'm still working out some kinks in some remote commands. I think the TSU9400 has a more powerful CPU than the TSU7x000 series, so I may need to tweak the duration of some of the codes (not the D2 in particular, but possibly other devices). I noticed that the D2 cursor keys, which work just fine on my TSU7000 & TSU7500 don't work properly on my TSU9400. I may need to relearn those codes. Anyway, I just got started with the TSU9400, and hope to get something working soon, time permitting.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/12679831
> 
> 
> I don't need recommendations about how/when to post from you Bogg. If you cared about accuracy of posting and the information you propagate, you would not bring up a supposed argument that was already proven long ago to be false. You should have been much clearer about the point you were making - why exactly would you bring up an old false argument that you knew was false and total misinformation, admit that it's false but then NOT make sure to make it clear that the conclusion made was at least correct, just not for the reasons this apparent old poster claimed. Your post leaves it unclear whether you believe that one point was totally wrong or whether the conclusion drawn from it was totally wrong, or both. It is sloppy practice at best, especially in a technical thread. Your post shows you walking this lame fence of positioning that maybe HDMI 1.3 for audio has an advantage because after all, somebody made a lame argument about 1.1 once upon a time, and boy was that proven false! But then you backpeddle by saying 'oh well, it's good that i have the Anthem anyway'. When you chose to use a complete red herring point about someone's long ago proven incorrect assumption about player decoding, what relevance does that have to your point? Absolutely none, so don't use it. Or at least be clear with people on the conclusion being right, just not for the reasons that some old poster made.
> 
> 
> Very sloppy way of posting. It seems that you are somehow implying that because some old assumptions were wrong, then these new ones could be wrong too! It is a form of spreading FUD (fear, uncertainty and doubt) that is not appropriate when many folks come here to learn what they should care about when buying an SSP. The fact is that using HDMI 1.3's ability to decode high bit rate audio in an SSP/preamp/receiver vs. decoding that high bit rate audio in the disc player poses absolutely no advantage from an audio quality standpoint (and you actually lose some functionality). This point is not coming from some joker posting uneducated old nonsense arguments, it is coming from the very companies that invented these lossless audio formats themselves! Dolby, DTS, etc etc. It is potentially confusing to new members/lurkers/those who might not be aware of the differences in decoding and featuresets of the D2 vs. other SSP's. Keep in mind new readers that are looking for advice in this and other threads. If you go back and read your posting and consider it from the eyes of a new, uninformed potential consumer, you will see that it is very possible (even likely) to take from it that player-side decoding is somehow inferior to preamp-side decoding. That of course is not the case. In fact, as you begrudgingly admit, decoding in the preamp a la HDMI 1.3 actually has a nasty side-effect of eliminating things like interactive language track selection *in addition to* the fact that it poses no audio quality advantage.
> 
> 
> Tighten up your game Bogg - that was a sloppy post and you should/could have been much clearer for our newer members/users.
> 
> 
> Brian



You read between the lines of my post WAAYYY too much.


Anyway, I know better than to get into it with a fanboy so it stops here. Back to the regular scheduled program.


----------



## Kruginator

I bought the Samsung BD-UP5000 dual Blu-Ray/HD-DVD player yesterday.


Given that I own a D2, I thought I would post the link to the post I made in the official BD-UP5000 owner's thread. My post highlights my initial findings.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post12684756 


Now that I have slept on it I am in a quandry:

- the D2 does a better job than the 5000 at upconverting/scaling/deinterlacing 480i DVDs (which will be my primary viewing material for the next while until hi-def DVDs find their way in to a Rogers store (my local DVD rental store for those of you outside Canada).

- since Warner is going Blu-Ray only, I am wondering if the purchase was worth it. Sure, I will miss out on the HD-DVD options, but I am leaning towards a higher quality Blu-Ray standalone player instead.


----------



## KCWolfPck

I recently got a new projector that can accept a 1080p24 source ad display it at a 96 Hz refresh rate.


In order to do this, I've discover that I need to go to the VIdeo Output setting and change the video output to 1080p24.


My question....is there a way to set te Video Output for each source? FOr example, when I am on my HD-DVD and Blu-ray sources, I want the Video Output to be 1080p24, and when I am on my sat receiver, XBox360, and Escient sources...I want to output 1080p60. I'd prefer not to have to got into te menu each time I change my input source.


Is that possible?


Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/12684263
> 
> 
> Well if the wiki article is to be believed, HDMI 1.0 is 7.1, 24/192 capable.
> 
> 
> If the D2 doesnt support this, then i dont know how they can say its HDMI 1.1 (or 1.0) capable, and the decision to not include 7.1 analog ins now looms larger.
> 
> 
> I love my D2 (and the D1 before it) so i hope this isnt the case.
> 
> 
> EDIT: Sadly, true. Page 9 (17 on the pdf) of the manual, 6 channels only.



YES - 6 channels only for input. It has nothing to

do with any HDMI version. Somewhere in this thread

the exact chip in the Anthem has been identified which

only support 5.1 input. Also the Anthem's specs are

clear - 6 channels in ONLY yet 8 Channels out via

Processing.


I have a 7.1 output configuration with my D2 and I LOVE IT


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/12692536
> 
> 
> I recently got a new projector that can accept a 1080p24 source ad display it at a 96 Hz refresh rate.
> 
> 
> In order to do this, I've discover that I need to go to the VIdeo Output setting and change the video output to 1080p24.
> 
> 
> My question....is there a way to set te Video Output for each source? FOr example, when I am on my HD-DVD and Blu-ray sources, I want the Video Output to be 1080p24, and when I am on my sat receiver, XBox360, and Escient sources...I want to output 1080p60. I'd prefer not to have to got into te menu each time I change my input source.
> 
> 
> Is that possible?
> 
> 
> Thanks




Yes it should be possible. In the latest software you have two video outputs (soon to be 4 for the D2 w/eq)







which you can program independently of each other.


Set one of them to output 1080p24 and go to your high def sources (HD-DVD and Blu-ray) and assign the 1080p24 video to them.


----------



## tngiloy

O.K. Now I'm pretty much totally confused about the new HD audio formats available on HD DVD and Bluray, and how they interact with the D2.

I don't yet own a HD DVD or bluray, but it won't be long before I do, so let me try to understand this better so that I can make an intelligent purchase.

If I understand correctly, the D2 does not decode the either the dolby or dts HD audio, but can be fed the HD audio via hdmi if the player has internal decoding.

If I understand correctly the D2 can only accept 5.1 channels in so if the material is in 7.1 it would have to be adjusted in the players audio set-up menu to downmix to 5.1, and would be processed in the D2 to 7.1 by using dolby plII or something similar if I wanted to use a 7.1 speaker configuration, which I do. (7.2 actually using the two sub outputs on the D2 and 2 sub in speaker set-up).

If I'm correct in my assumptions- and I'm sure that someone out there will correct me if I'm not- then how do I configure both the HD player and the D2 to get the best possible audio?

What HD players have the best HD audio processing for interacting well with the D2?

BlueRay or HD DVD? (I realize this may open a can of worms, but what the heck)

Should the audio from the HD player be output via hdmi, or can it be output via analog like my Denon 3930ci now outputs its sacd and dvd-a info to my D2 or does lossless audio need to remain digital?

I'm not an engineer so don't get too technical.

Tom


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/12695939
> 
> 
> I'm not an engineer so don't get too technical.
> 
> Tom



It is very simple.


The D2 decodes NONE of the Lossless audio formats.


What you need is a HD or Blu-Ray player that internally

decodes the lossless audio formats into PCM over HDMI.


Almost all of them do some of the codecs. NOTHING to

date decodes the DTS lossless format. Right now - DTS

Lossless is still pie in the sky.


A large majority of Blu-Ray movies have PCM lossless

tracks when means NOTHING has to decode anything.


Must players will decode TrueHD into PCM.


You don't need to worry about any Anthem product.

You just need to pay attention to which player you

BUY.


Decoding to ANALOG is the last thing you want. I have

my D2 setup to do an A/B Comparison between 5.1

Analog and HDMI PCM. It is like NIGHT AND DAY.


----------



## lalarsons

Several D2 owners have A-5's. Have any of the A5 owners out there experienced (what I think is) transformer noise? Not coming from speakers, but from the unit itself.


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12694658
> 
> 
> Yes it should be possible. In the latest software you have two video outputs (soon to be 4 for the D2 w/eq)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which you can program independently of each other.
> 
> 
> Set one of them to output 1080p24 and go to your high def sources (HD-DVD and Blu-ray) and assign the 1080p24 video to them.



According to Anthems support site, I do have the latest firmware (1.11). I'm unable to locate a more recent one.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/12696294
> 
> 
> Several D2 owners have A-5's. Have any of the A5 owners out there experienced (what I think is) transformer noise? Not coming from speakers, but from the unit itself.



You should not hear any noise coming from that unit. Call Anthem tech support.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/12696618
> 
> 
> According to Anthems support site, I do have the latest firmware (1.11). I'm unable to locate a more recent one.



Send me a PM with your email address. I assume you have an AVM 50?


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/12696294
> 
> 
> Several D2 owners have A-5's. Have any of the A5 owners out there experienced (what I think is) transformer noise? Not coming from speakers, but from the unit itself.



My D2 is paired with an A5 and I don't hear any transformer noise. I have tried a line conditioner?


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/12696294
> 
> 
> Several D2 owners have A-5's. Have any of the A5 owners out there experienced (what I think is) transformer noise? Not coming from speakers, but from the unit itself.



Hi lalarsons


I have the D2 paired with the A5 as well and no noise at all coming from the unit. I did have the electrician run a seperate 20 amp service for the power conditioner, (Paramax 5500)


Cheers


Bob


----------



## Bob Anderson

Hi


After almost a year with my D2 being fed by an excellent Arcam DV137, I am about to add a Blue Ray player. Not wanting to start a format discussion, wondering what others have found in Blue Ray players to be the best marriage with the D2?


I have the Sharp 46" D92U for the screen.


Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


Cheers


Bob


----------



## Bob Anderson

Hi all


Not sure if this information is of any value to members but I had my D2/Sharp 46" D92U "isf" calibrated and here are the results. The technician fed the data through an Arcam DV137, (HDMI).


H - Pos: +1

V - Pos: -4

OPC: Off

Backlit: -5

Color Temp: Low

Black: Off

Fine Motion: On

Monochrome: Off

OPC: +12, -16


Brightness: +5

Contrast: +32

Color: +3

Tint: -1

Sharpness: +5


Prior to colorimetry calibration, IRE rose from 11,000 at 100IRE to 13,500/14,000 at 70IRE through to 20IRE.


After calibration, a flat 6,500 across the board.


Not sure if this info is of any value but wanted to post.


Cheers


Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/12699281
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> After almost a year with my D2 being fed by an excellent Arcam DV137, I am about to add a Blue Ray player. Not wanting to start a format discussion, wondering what others have found in Blue Ray players to be the best marriage with the D2?
> 
> 
> I have the Sharp 46" D92U for the screen.
> 
> 
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



I settled on the PS3. I've been happy so far with both BD and standard DVDs (replacing a Pioneer Elite DV-79AVi). To date, nothing will decode DTS-MA and send as LPCM. Next year, I'll look at the Denon (which should be out by then) and see how it fairs.


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12699475
> 
> 
> I settled on the PS3. I've been happy so far with both BD and standard DVDs (replacing a Pioneer Elite DV-79AVi). To date, nothing will decode DTS-MA and send as LPCM. Next year, I'll look at the Denon (which should be out by then) and see how it fairs.



Thanks Tim!


Not sure I want to go that route at the present time but seems that all that have, have been happy!


Cheers


Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/12699281
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> After almost a year with my D2 being fed by an excellent Arcam DV137, I am about to add a Blue Ray player. Not wanting to start a format discussion, wondering what others have found in Blue Ray players to be the best marriage with the D2?
> 
> 
> I have the Sharp 46" D92U for the screen.
> 
> 
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



I would delay any decision until after CES.


No matter how good various Blu-Ray players are today.

The Next generation will for the fist time get it all correct.


At least that is my HOPE.


I won't be upgrading my Blu-Ray player which is well over

a year old now until the players makers get all the features

implemented.


And since the D2 does no decoding - getting the right player

with internal decoding is CRITICAL.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12699475
> 
> 
> I settled on the PS3. I've been happy so far with both BD and standard DVDs (replacing a Pioneer Elite DV-79AVi). To date, nothing will decode DTS-MA and send as LPCM. Next year, I'll look at the Denon (which should be out by then) and see how it fairs.



I have BOTH a Pioneer Blu-Ray player and a PS3.


I'll take the slow Pioneer over the PS3 EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/12699281
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> After almost a year with my D2 being fed by an excellent Arcam DV137, I am about to add a Blue Ray player. Not wanting to start a format discussion, wondering what others have found in Blue Ray players to be the best marriage with the D2?
> 
> 
> I have the Sharp 46" D92U for the screen.
> 
> 
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



Bob,


I've got a Pioneer 94HD BluRay and the load times are pretty fast with the latest firmware and I like the unit alot. However, as Hank notes, if I were buying right now I would wait until after CES - Pioneer and Marantz will be showcasing new players, just to name a few. I like the sounds of the Marantz, as it is promising internal decoding of DD+, Dolby TrueHD *and* DTS HD Master Audio, which would be very cool. Of course, it's too early to be sure about it, so keep an eye on other mfg's as well (Denon?).


Brian


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/12699439
> 
> 
> Hi all
> 
> 
> Not sure if this information is of any value to members but I had my D2/Sharp 46" D92U "isf" calibrated and here are the results. The technician fed the data through an Arcam DV137, (HDMI).
> 
> 
> H - Pos: +1
> 
> V - Pos: -4
> 
> OPC: Off
> 
> Backlit: -5
> 
> Color Temp: Low
> 
> Black: Off
> 
> Fine Motion: On
> 
> Monochrome: Off
> 
> OPC: +12, -16
> 
> 
> Brightness: +5
> 
> Contrast: +32
> 
> Color: +3
> 
> Tint: -1
> 
> Sharpness: +5
> 
> 
> Prior to colorimetry calibration, IRE rose from 11,000 at 100IRE to 13,500/14,000 at 70IRE through to 20IRE.
> 
> 
> After calibration, a flat 6,500 across the board.
> 
> 
> Not sure if this info is of any value but wanted to post.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



It's not really the place to post display settings but thanks for sharing with others something you paid good money for.










larry


----------



## sbwright

Came across this article which may help with understanding and connections to best enjoy those confusing new audio formats. For those of us without Doctorates, assuming the author is correct.

http://www.highdefdigest.com/news/sh...Explained/1064


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/12677960
> 
> 
> I have a Statement D2 (besides some other stuff) and a Phillips Pronto 9400 (which is said to be similar/same as the 9600) and have some difficulties to integrate the proper codes. On the Anthem page are 2 download files but these files look like to work rather with the AVM20/30 lines than with the D2??? Can someone explain which files to take for the Pronto 9400/9600? thanks



The AVM20/30 codes are theoretically the same as the D2 codes, but the D2 has additional codes/macros. I mentioned eariler a link to my TSU7000 PCF. I just ported my TSU7000 PCF to a TSU9400 XCF and found a number of codes that worked properly with the TSU7000/7500 don't work with the TSU9400. The codes that I had trouble with were: Zone 2 on/off, Rec, I also changed some macros to put proper delays (for example FM1, FM2, FM3, and AM). The hard part was getting the cursor (menu) keys to work properly. See the following URL for codes with the correct cursor and select commands:

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...thread.cgi?910 


If you PM me with an email address, I can forward you an XCF with the proper TSU9400 codes.


----------



## budeone

I have been getting a message flashing on my screen. It goes by rather quick but it says something like...


HDCP monitor not found cant convert 480i


Any idas what this is?


----------



## Expletive




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12692887
> 
> 
> YES - 6 channels only for input. It has nothing to
> 
> do with any HDMI version. Somewhere in this thread
> 
> the exact chip in the Anthem has been identified which
> 
> only support 5.1 input. Also the Anthem's specs are
> 
> clear - 6 channels in ONLY yet 8 Channels out via
> 
> Processing.
> 
> 
> I have a 7.1 output configuration with my D2 and I LOVE IT



How about this as an option...


Do BR and HD-DVD players output the LPCM via HDMI simultaneously with the 7.1 out of their analog jacks?


If so, how about an option on the D2 to take the surround back channels from the anlog outs connect them to the Surround rear channels on the analog in. Pass those through to the surround back.


THis way you get the 5.1 from the HDMI and the surround back via analog.


It seems like a lot of hoops to jump through for back channels but i really dont like the idea of missing discreet data back there when its available. Those speakers back there and the amps for them werent free, i want to get my moneys worth.


----------



## bluemark81

If you were to feed the AVM50/D2 a 24 fps sigal, but had the output of the Anthem set at 60 fps, will the Anthem do the 3:2 pulldown? Or should this only be done in either the source or the TV?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Expletive* /forum/post/12708192
> 
> 
> How about this as an option...
> 
> 
> Do BR and HD-DVD players output the LPCM via HDMI simultaneously with the 7.1 out of their analog jacks?
> 
> 
> If so, how about an option on the D2 to take the surround back channels from the anlog outs connect them to the Surround rear channels on the analog in. Pass those through to the surround back.



I doubt you can mix things up like that.


BUT FYI - Tonight - I watched WAR on Blu-Ray. This is the

very first movie with a 7.1 LPCM track. I ran it into my D2

and verified the D2 was only accepting 5.1 even though the

player was sending 7.1.


HOWEVER - I was getting full 7.1 output from the 5.1 input.

It sounded great and I'll BET you will never know what you

might be missing because the D2 fills in the gap.


Marc [FilmMixer] who does the 7.1 mixing on films says

even he can't tell the difference when the D2 takes the

5.1 and converts it to 7.1


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12714794
> 
> 
> I doubt you can mix things up like that.
> 
> 
> BUT FYI - Tonight - I watched WAR on Blu-Ray. This is the
> 
> very first movie with a 7.1 LPCM track. I ran it into my D2
> 
> and verified the D2 was only accepting 5.1 even though the
> 
> player was sending 7.1.
> 
> 
> HOWEVER - I was getting full 7.1 output from the 5.1 input.
> 
> It sounded great and I'll BET you will never know what you
> 
> might be missing because the D2 fills in the gap.
> 
> 
> Marc [FilmMixer] who does the 7.1 mixing on films says
> 
> even he can't tell the difference when the D2 takes the
> 
> 5.1 and converts it to 7.1



And I am converting ALL signals to 6.1, and yes, the D2 does it quite well indeed.


----------



## wookie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/12706658
> 
> 
> I have been getting a message flashing on my screen. It goes by rather quick but it says something like...
> 
> 
> HDCP monitor not found cant convert 480i
> 
> 
> Any idas what this is?



The Anthem D2 will not upconvert a copy protected dvd from 480i on a component output. It will upconvert on an HDMI output if the monitor is HDCP compliant. As far as I know this is also true with upconverting DVD players. They will only upconvert over an HDMI output if the DVD is copy protected and most are.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I have a D2 on overnight loan from the local dealer, trying to decide if it is worth upgrading my D1.


Unit is running 1.12s code.


Has anyone had trouble assigning coax digital inputs? DVD1 will not give me audio at all, the same settings work on DVD2 and DVD3.


My Toshiba A1 will not give me any audio from the digital coax assigned to the AUX input. What is really interesting is that even if I tell it to use the cable box input, which works for watching TV on the same setup I get no audio.


Also using the HDMI input into my SP 777 the whites are blown out, a component pass-thru does not have the issue. Do people typically have to dial-in the video in order to


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12699475
> 
> 
> I settled on the PS3. I've been happy so far with both BD and standard DVDs (replacing a Pioneer Elite DV-79AVi). To date, nothing will decode DTS-MA and send as LPCM. Next year, I'll look at the Denon (which should be out by then) and see how it fairs.



Tada. Here is another link to the recently CES announced Panasonic DMP BD50 Blu-Ray player.

http://www.engadget.com/2008/01/06/s...-new-dmp-bd50/ 


Along with internal decoding of TrueHD, DTS MA it is also profile 2.0 ready with an Ethernet port.


While I am still in shock over the whole Warner thing, this would be the player I would get for sure unless the BR folks start getting stupid with hardware and software pricing now that they think the war is over. Not starting a fight, but this is all part of my decision process. Basically the BD50 has the features I need and if the prices is reasonable then that's the one I will be getting.


Cheers,


Richard.


PS. I had posted looking for suggestions on a projector and screen as well so given that the BD50 outputs 1080p/24 directly any ideas?


Also would you send that directly to the projector of still through the D2? Will the D2 do a direct (lossless for lack of a better word) pass through of the 1080p/24?


OK, onemore question. I just read that along with the room equalization coming there will also be an increase from 2 to 4 video output configurations. Is there a link with the full features / changes that come with the room equalization?


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> I have been getting a message flashing on my screen. It goes by rather quick but it says something like...
> 
> 
> HDCP monitor not found cant convert 480i
> 
> 
> Any idas what this is?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wookie* /forum/post/12715893
> 
> The Anthem D2 will not upconvert a copy protected dvd from 480i on a component output. It will upconvert on an HDMI output if the monitor is HDCP compliant. As far as I know this is also true with upconverting DVD players. They will only upconvert over an HDMI output if the DVD is copy protected and most are.



It is on HDMI cable and is going into a KDS-R60XBR2


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/12679612
> 
> 
> I don't believe the files on the Anthem site, are the latest and greatest. They are however great starting points, seems to me I had to add the Video side of the equation when I did my 9600.
> 
> 
> Have you tried this site, they have a large collection of user grenerated config files for the remotes that includes the D2/AVM50. Just do a search for the equipment in the files area.
> http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...topro/list.cgi
> 
> 
> Edited to add:
> 
> As far as the Audio side goes, it appears that the IR codes are identical model to model.



I was going to post a D2 Pronto File when I got my Anthem, but when I decided to switch over to RS-232, I never got around to it.




Here's a link to the Remote Central Site with several people's Anthems in their system configurations. Haven't personally tested any, but them may work just fine.

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...r=&dv=&dt=&so= 


This is another link to AVM-20s, 30s, and 1 D2 file:
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...v=preamplifier 


If you get yours working, post it to Remote Central to share the wealth.


----------



## circumstances

might be getting ready to pull the trigger (finally) on upgrading to a D2.


i'm currently running an AVM 20 with an MCA 50.


i'd like to stick with the MCA 50 for a bit (if not permanently), unless the folks with D2 experience think that is a major mistake and the amp also needs to be upgraded.


also, is there any reason to wait a little bit longer on the D2 (for example i noticed anthem announced onboard room correction at CES-and as an upgrade to existing models as well), for anything on the near horizon?


looking forward to joining you guys shortly =)


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12699769
> 
> 
> I have BOTH a Pioneer Blu-Ray player and a PS3.
> 
> 
> I'll take the slow Pioneer over the PS3 EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK.



Really? Why is that?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12723787
> 
> 
> Really? Why is that?



Feel Free to READ *this article*


No IR is a 100% Deal Breaker in my Theater.

If you can't control and it can't be rack mounted.

THEN IT IS USELESS.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12724159
> 
> 
> Feel Free to READ *this article*
> 
> 
> No IR is a 100% Deal Breaker in my Theater.
> 
> If you can't control and it can't be rack mounted.
> 
> THEN IT IS USELESS.



Nothing new to me in that article, but thanks. (No, it doesn't bitstream HR audio formats, but the D2 can't support that anyway so I don't care and there are no BR players which decode DTS-MA so that's a non-issue as well.)


I solved the IR support with the schmartz adapter. They now have a -PWR version so you can even control the power with IR. It's worked great for me. I leave it on all the time running [email protected] when I'm not watching, so IR power control isn't an option.


I have read posts from other users where they have custom Mid Atlantic rackmount kits for their PS3, so I know it can be done.


Fortunately, your concerns are not the same as mine. I respect your decision to use the standalone BR player. I've just started to use the PS3. So far, it's working well and I have no complaints. Time will tell if it continues to work well for me.


Luckily (for all of us) there is always something new just around the corner. It's only $$$.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12724313
> 
> 
> I respect your decision to use the standalone BR player.:



I love the PS3 for what it is designed to do - PLAY GAMES


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12724455
> 
> 
> I love the PS3 for what it is designed to do - PLAY GAMES


----------



## AnthemAVM

So did I miss it, or didn't Anthem come out about the room correction for the D2 at CES?


----------



## circumstances




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12727139
> 
> 
> So did I miss it, or didn't Anthem come out about the room correction for the D2 at CES?



i read about it here: http://www.twice.com/article/CA65174...q=statement+d2


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *circumstances* /forum/post/12727955
> 
> 
> i read about it here: http://www.twice.com/article/CA65174...q=statement+d2



So the updated price for existing D2 customers is $399. Still a bargain if it works right.

--Bob


----------



## learflyer

I have a question about the tone controls on the D2.


I've pretty much always left treble and bass controls in the neutral positions on any gear that I've had but about three weeks ago I hit the treble control on my universal remote by mistake and got such a loud "pop" out of my left front speaker that I was afraid I'd blown out a driver. The other night I did the same thing (am going to have to change the location of the tone controls on the remote) with the volume at a lower setting so the "pop" wasn't quite as severe but it was still way louder than the music track I was listening to. My question is; has anyone else had a similar problem with their D2? Was it only on the treble control or has it happened on other controls?


----------



## mr_fitz

Just a couple of questions for the geniuses out there:


I finally bought a JVC RS-1 to go with my D2 and I also bought a PS3 for BD watching and gaming. Dear God WOW. I can't believe I waited so long for this unbelievable sound and picture.


Is it normal when skipping tracks when watching a BD movie that the sound takes 3-4 seconds to kick in even though the picture is playing? (the 5.1 on the D2 screen disappears and reappears and when it reappears the sound comes back on) Auto Dig is off.


I have frame lock turned to off on all inputs and have the different overlayed inputs setup for outputting the different video output configurations of 1080p/60 (video output 1) for gaming and 1080p/24 (video output 2) for BD movies.

The problem I am having is that when switching between tv1 and dvd2 and dvd1, every so often I lose picture and sound and can view only a blue screen. The only way to remedy it is to turn off and on my D2. Is this normal as well?


Thanks for all the help.


John


----------



## Ian_Currie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *learflyer* /forum/post/12728912
> 
> 
> I have a question about the tone controls on the D2.
> 
> 
> I've pretty much always left treble and bass controls in the neutral positions on any gear that I've had but about three weeks ago I hit the treble control on my universal remote by mistake and got such a loud "pop" out of my left front speaker that I was afraid I'd blown out a driver. The other night I did the same thing (am going to have to change the location of the tone controls on the remote) with the volume at a lower setting so the "pop" wasn't quite as severe but it was still way louder than the music track I was listening to. My question is; has anyone else had a similar problem with their D2? Was it only on the treble control or has it happened on other controls?



I get this from time to time. One of my macros to select inputs always disables tone control and seeing this I hit TREBLE to turn it back on and often get the loud pop.


----------



## Ian_Currie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12730010
> 
> 
> The problem I am having is that when switching between tv1 and dvd2 and dvd1, every so often I lose picture and sound and can view only a blue screen. The only way to remedy it is to turn off and on my D2. Is this normal as well?



It can be normal for sound to come back in and unfortunately it's not unusual to have to toggle off/on the D2 to remedy the blue screen. Sometimes you can get away with choosing another input on the D2 (and then back again) but my D2 often gets confused. Sometimes I'll lose the on screen display. Sometimes it'll just report the default volume and not any volume changes (even though the changes take effect) etc. It can be quirky at times.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12728770
> 
> 
> So the updated price for existing D2 customers is $399. Still a bargain if it works right.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Any idea when they might make it available?


Michael


----------



## learflyer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/12730111
> 
> 
> I get this from time to time. One of my macros to select inputs always disables tone control and seeing this I hit TREBLE to turn it back on and often get the loud pop.



Ok thanks for the reply, at least I know it's not something unique to my unit. I shudder to think what would happen though if I was watching a movie at high volume and this happened. Before I send Anthem an e-mail about this, did you ever (or has anyone) ask Anthem tech support about this anomoly? As I said in my previous post the "pop" was enough to make me afraid that I'd blown out a driver - not something I want to deal with.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12730189
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Any idea when they might make it available?
> 
> 
> Michael



We had a post here that said that the recent price list change came with word that the new D2 units (which ship with the Room EQ as part of that new pricing) will be available in 4-6 weeks. That was what, a week ago?


I would presume the upgrades for existing D2 units could be ordered/shipped about the same time. Anthem would have to ship the mic, and the owner would have to install the software, but there wouldn't be any need to send the older D2 to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

$400?

Hmm,a bit disappointed that this is a lot more than the formerly rumored $300.

I'll eagerly await user reviews etc., before committing.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/12699281
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> After almost a year with my D2 being fed by an excellent Arcam DV137, I am about to add a Blue Ray player. Not wanting to start a format discussion, wondering what others have found in Blue Ray players to be the best marriage with the D2?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



Bob,

Depending on your price point, other members opinions not withstanding, the PS3 is currently the _best performing_ Blu-ray player for your D2.

It is also firmware upgradeable.

You can get either the Schwartz(sp?) or Nyko Blu-Wave to use as a remote for like $20.

You can get a 40gb PS3 from the sonystyle website for $299 if you sign up for their Visa card. Offers end Jan 31st.

Personally, if paying $2k for 1st Gen Blu-ray players from Marantz or Denon I would at the least wait for a review from Secrets before committing that kind of money at this early stage.

The new Panasonic looks very nice but I'm guessing that one will be in the$1500 range.

IMO, I don't think the high-end players are worth it when you have a D2.

You already have a VP section that is at least the equal of what these players have. Why pay for it again?

Personally I'm holding out for Oppo to release a BR player.

That could be a perfect match for the D2.

HTH


----------



## wookie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/12718006
> 
> 
> It is on HDMI cable and is going into a KDS-R60XBR2



It should upconvert then. Check what the D2 is outputting by pressing 7 on the D2 remove control then scrolling over to video info. See what resolution is being inputted to the d2 and what is outputted. If the message is on just for a short time perhaps it takes longer to do the hdmi hand shaking. What firmware version for the D2 are you running. You may want to contact support at Anthem. I know that there have been some incompatabilities with some hdmi components. Mine upconverts fine with 480i input and 1080p output over HDMI to a Sony vw60 projector. I am using 1.21d version.


----------



## vince32837

If any guys made it over to the Anthem booth at CES, did they show any prototypes beyond AVM50 and D2?


Thanks Vince


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vince32837* /forum/post/12733335
> 
> 
> If any guys made it over to the Anthem booth at CES, did they show any prototypes beyond AVM50 and D2?
> 
> 
> Thanks Vince



As a rule Anthem does not have a booth at CES.


They usually have a hotel Suite. It makes them

harder to find.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12699769
> 
> 
> I have BOTH a Pioneer Blu-Ray player and a PS3.
> 
> 
> I'll take the slow Pioneer over the PS3 EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12723787
> 
> 
> Really? Why is that?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12724159
> 
> 
> Feel Free to READ *this article*
> 
> 
> No IR is a 100% Deal Breaker in my Theater.
> 
> If you can't control and it can't be rack mounted.
> 
> THEN IT IS USELESS.



Interesting - my initial read of Hank's post was a difference in output quality. I don't have a dedicated BR player, but I prefer the DVD and CD output of a dedicated DVD player (Arcam DV79) to the PS3 on a D2. So I figure a similar difference in quality exists with a dedicated BR player vs PS3 (decoding/profile/load-time issues aside).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/12736973
> 
> 
> Interesting - my initial read of Hank's post was a difference in output quality. I don't have a dedicated BR player, but I prefer the DVD and CD output of a dedicated DVD player (Arcam DV79) to the PS3 on a D2. So I figure a similar difference in quality exists with a dedicated BR player vs PS3 (decoding/profile/load-time issues aside).



In *THEORY* since we are all talking about digital here.


The Video or Audio output quality *SHOULD* all be the same.


Digital Bits are Digital Bits --- *IN THEORY.*


Therefore it is other features or lack of other features that make

the difference.


----------



## circumstances




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *circumstances* /forum/post/12722296
> 
> 
> might be getting ready to pull the trigger (finally) on upgrading to a D2.
> 
> 
> i'm currently running an AVM 20 with an MCA 50.
> 
> 
> i'd like to stick with the MCA 50 for a bit (if not permanently), unless the folks with D2 experience think that is a major mistake and the amp also needs to be upgraded.
> 
> 
> also, is there any reason to wait a little bit longer on the D2 (for example i noticed anthem announced onboard room correction at CES-and as an upgrade to existing models as well), for anything on the near horizon?
> 
> 
> looking forward to joining you guys shortly =)



look, i'm bumping my own post in hopes of some feedback. also, what version of HDMI is in the latest D2's?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *circumstances* /forum/post/12738293
> 
> 
> look, i'm bumping my own post in hopes of some feedback. also, what version of HDMI is in the latest D2's?



All I can help with is the HDMI.

*THIS Anthem article should answer your questions*


----------



## circumstances




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12738387
> 
> 
> All I can help with is the HDMI.
> 
> *THIS Anthem article should answer your questions*



thanks doctor. i'll read it now. =)


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12730010
> 
> 
> Just a couple of questions for the geniuses out there:
> 
> 
> I finally bought a JVC RS-1 to go with my D2 and I also bought a PS3 for BD watching and gaming. Dear God WOW. I can't believe I waited so long for this unbelievable sound and picture.
> 
> 
> Is it normal when skipping tracks when watching a BD movie that the sound takes 3-4 seconds to kick in even though the picture is playing? (the 5.1 on the D2 screen disappears and reappears and when it reappears the sound comes back on) Auto Dig is off.
> 
> 
> I have frame lock turned to off on all inputs and have the different overlayed inputs setup for outputting the different video output configurations of 1080p/60 (video output 1) for gaming and 1080p/24 (video output 2) for BD movies.
> 
> The problem I am having is that when switching between tv1 and dvd2 and dvd1, every so often I lose picture and sound and can view only a blue screen. The only way to remedy it is to turn off and on my D2. Is this normal as well?
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the help.
> 
> 
> John



Congrats on your new components. I wanted to share that I have experienced exactly the same behavior with my D2 (configured the same as yours) and JVC RS-1 projector: Occasionally the HDMI handshake gets hung up when switching between a 1080p/60 satellite TV and 1080p/24 BD DVD source. I, too, have learned the only way to fix this is to cycle the front-panel power on my D2.


Interestingly I NEVER get this malfunction when just switching between 1080p/60 and 1080/24 output configurations on the same source.


And I also experience sound being muted 3-4 seconds when changing tracks on a Blu-Ray disc (with a new Samsung BD-UP5000 player).


But despite these issues, I'm very pleased with the picture. Last night I tried out Blade Runner and 2001 Space Odyssey BDs -- holy ****, what an image!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *circumstances* /forum/post/12738477
> 
> 
> thanks doctor. i'll read it now. =)



As for your amplifier question.


Anthem Amps are very good.


Amps needed to be chosen to MATCH the Speakers

you are using. Therefore unless you are changing

speakers - there is certainly no need to change AMPS.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/12736973
> 
> 
> Interesting - my initial read of Hank's post was a difference in output quality. I don't have a dedicated BR player, but I prefer the DVD and CD output of a dedicated DVD player (Arcam DV79) to the PS3 on a D2. So I figure a similar difference in quality exists with a dedicated BR player vs PS3 (decoding/profile/load-time issues aside).





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12737507
> 
> 
> In *THEORY* since we are all talking about digital here.
> 
> 
> The Video or Audio output quality *SHOULD* all be the same.
> 
> 
> Digital Bits are Digital Bits --- *IN THEORY.*
> 
> 
> Therefore it is other features or lack of other features that make
> 
> the difference.



Understood - in theory it is all digital, so the particular source and even cable should not matter. However I think this a hotly debated topic.


As you may gather, I'm in the camp that believes source component and cable do make a difference in the audio/video playback quality of a digital source. Though I'm sure not everyone will care about (or even notice) the differences.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/12739338
> 
> 
> Understood - in theory it is all digital, so the particular source and even cable should not matter. However I think this a hotly debated topic.
> 
> 
> As you may gather, I'm in the camp that believes source component and cable do make a difference in the audio/video playback quality of a digital source. Though I'm sure not everyone will care about (or even notice) the differences.


*I never said a cable does not matter.*


Even though it is a digital bit-stream - any cable

that does not properly support the bandwidth

needed by the digital bit-stream will cause *errors*

which will degrade the performance.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/12738559
> 
> 
> Congrats on your new components. I wanted to share that I have experienced exactly the same behavior with my D2 (configured the same as yours) and JVC RS-1 projector: Occasionally the HDMI handshake gets hung up when switching between a 1080p/60 satellite TV and 1080p/24 BD DVD source. I, too, have learned the only way to fix this is to cycle the front-panel power on my D2.
> 
> 
> Interestingly I NEVER get this malfunction when just switching between 1080p/60 and 1080/24 output configurations on the same source.
> 
> 
> And I also experience sound being muted 3-4 seconds when changing tracks on a Blu-Ray disc (with a new Samsung BD-UP5000 player).
> 
> 
> But despite these issues, I'm very pleased with the picture. Last night I tried out Blade Runner and 2001 Space Odyssey BDs -- holy ****, what an image!



I guess I'm glad someone else is experiencing the same issues I am having and I suppose the answer is to live with it as there seems to be no solution. The picture and sound when working properly completely makes up for the issues I do have though.


----------



## gblack

Picked up this Blu-ray disc tonight. It's 7.1 PCM audio. My question is what will I get for the surrounds from this disc. I know the anthem can only take 5.1 in via HDMI. Will the blu-ray player down mix the surround and rear channels into a 5.1 mix, or will the 5.1 limit of the anthem mean I'm going to miss out on some effect sounds in the rears? (This is being played on a Sony BDP-S500 Player)


thx!


----------



## zzzzdoc

Any further word on cost / availability from CES regarding the room correction. My contact gave me info which I don't believe is correct, so I'm looking for alternate info.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12746132
> 
> 
> Picked up this Blu-ray disc tonight. It's 7.1 PCM audio. My question is what will I get for the surrounds from this disc. I know the anthem can only take 5.1 in via HDMI. Will the blu-ray player down mix the surround and rear channels into a 5.1 mix, or will the 5.1 limit of the anthem mean I'm going to miss out on some effect sounds in the rears? (This is being played on a Sony BDP-S500 Player)
> 
> 
> thx!


 http://www.docs.sony.com/release/BDPS500.pdf 


go to pages 47-48 which gives you info and a table of how the player handles different scenarios. It's not absolutely clear to me.


Anytime you want to check the audio status of the Anthem press the Status/Select button to scroll through the information. Don't use the video screen as it is not always accurate.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/12750032
> 
> 
> Any further word on cost / availability from CES regarding the room correction. My contact gave me info which I don't believe is correct, so I'm looking for alternate info.



What info did he give you?


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12750622
> 
> http://www.docs.sony.com/release/BDPS500.pdf
> 
> 
> go to pages 47-48 which gives you info and a table of how the player handles different scenarios. It's not absolutely clear to me.
> 
> 
> Anytime you want to check the audio status of the Anthem press the Status/Select button to scroll through the information. Don't use the video screen as it is not always accurate.



thx, yeah I did check the Status from Anthem and it says incoming audio is 6CH 48KHz and is from L,C,R,LS,RS,LFE


But I'm wondering if the output from the BRay player included all 8 channels and the Anthem just discarded the LR, RR as it can't process them, or the BRay player determined that the anthem can only accept 6 channels and it performed a downmix. The Sony player's status info doesn't indicate any of that, and the user guide as you note is vague.


The HDMI chipset in the Anthem is HDMI 1.1 and so it should take 8 channels up to 24/96, but my understanding is that the DSPs for sound processing are limited to 6 channels. So is the anthem downmixing internally, discarding the extra rear channel information or not getting it at all from the bluray player?


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12751218
> 
> 
> thx, yeah I did check the Status from Anthem and it says incoming audio is 6CH 48KHz and is from L,C,R,LS,RS,LFE
> 
> 
> But I'm wondering if the output from the BRay player included all 8 channels and the Anthem just discarded the LR, RR as it can't process them, or the BRay player determined that the anthem can only accept 6 channels and it performed a downmix. The Sony player's status info doesn't indicate any of that, and the user guide as you note is vague.
> 
> 
> The HDMI chipset in the Anthem is HDMI 1.1 and so it should take 8 channels up to 24/96, but my understanding is that the DSPs for sound processing are limited to 6 channels. So is the anthem downmixing internally, discarding the extra rear channel information or not getting it at all from the bluray player?



The only hint that the Sony might be downmixing is the last sentence in footnote 4 on pg 48 of the manual which says: "Resulting output may differ depending on the connected HDMI device."


If the Sony detects that the connected device can only accept 5.1, I would guess that the Sony would downmix the signal. It's only a guess of course.










It would seem odd if Sony designed the player to just discard those extra channels but I guess crazier things have happened.


----------



## Capfacsurf

Woo Hooo!!!! Was at the Anthem suite yesterday at CES. 29th or 30th floor in the Venetian, can't remember. The good news? The room correction is now available, AND IT WORKS ON THE D1 AS WELL AS THE D2!!!!! I was so thrilled at that bit of news, I kinda' forgot exactly how much the price was. I'm thinking he said around $350, and that includes a disk and an Anthem microphone. It samples a minimum of 5 locations, and a maximum of 10. Sets crossovers for each speaker. Will have new modes in future to allow for different correction profiles, i.e, two channel, two person video audience, 10 person video, etc.


Didn't see much more new. The room featured the D2, a couple of the big Statement amps, a PlayStation for the BD, 4 parasound subs and bunch of Parasound speakers.


I asked for A/B of the room correction. They said that wasn't possible now, but they may have an A/B toggle in future updates. He assured me though that the room sounded no where close to what I had experienced before the room correction was applied.


----------



## Capfacsurf

DARN...just called tech support to order. They say the room correction upgrade WAS NOT yet available. How could the guys at CES say something so different from what the tech support fellows say. AARGH!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Capfacsurf* /forum/post/12752695
> 
> 
> Woo Hooo!!!! Was at the Anthem suite yesterday at CES. 29th or 30th floor in the Venetian, can't remember. The good news? The room correction is now available, AND IT WORKS ON THE D1 AS WELL AS THE D2!!!!! I was so thrilled at that bit of news, I kinda' forgot exactly how much the price was. I'm thinking he said around $350, and that includes a disk and an Anthem microphone. It samples a minimum of 5 locations, and a maximum of 10. Sets crossovers for each speaker. Will have new modes in future to allow for different correction profiles, i.e, two channel, two person video audience, 10 person video, etc.
> 
> 
> Didn't see much more new. The room featured the D2, a couple of the big Statement amps, a PlayStation for the BD, 4 parasound subs and bunch of Parasound speakers.
> 
> 
> I asked for A/B of the room correction. They said that wasn't possible now, but they may have an A/B toggle in future updates. He assured me though that the room sounded no where close to what I had experienced before the room correction was applied.



I hope this thing comes with a decent manual!


That's good news about D1 support.


Also, I like the idea that they can add new profiles over time, although it begs the question as to which profiles are in it now.


My guess is they are going to want to start shipments of D2s that include this before they sell upgrades to existing customers. But in any case we are probably only a few weeks away.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Capfacsurf* /forum/post/12752851
> 
> 
> DARN...just called tech support to order. They say the room correction upgrade WAS NOT yet available. How could the guys at CES say something so different from what the tech support fellows say. AARGH!



Did you ask the Anthem CES guys about any new products slated for later this year?

--Bob


----------



## PooperScooper

Capfacsurf,

The ARC EQ is available, just not to everybody yet. Earlier somebody said 4-6 weeks.


larry


----------



## jkmw

I too spoke to tech support today, about an unrelated issue, but remembered to ask about the room eq. The tech on hand stated that it would not be necessary to send the unit in, that it was indeed a coding issue for which I need the disc, and of course the microphone, at a cost of around $300-400, and should be available in this first quarter of 2008. He went on to mention somehing that struck me as odd only after I hung up; that the room eq was somehow tied to each units serial number.


He wasn't taking orders or it would have been the quickest $300 - $400 I Ever spent.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As best I can see, there's still nothing up on the Anthem web site, nor any new press release activity.


There is at least one reseller which is already listing the D2 at the new price, and including Anthem Room Correction, in their downloadable catalog:

http://www.audioemporium.com/2008catalog.pdf 


But no info on ordering ARC as an upgrade for existing D2 (or D1) customers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This article from Twice specifies the upgrade price as $399 and confirms availability both for D1 and D2 upgrades:

http://www.twice.com/article/CA65174...dustryid=23100 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkmw* /forum/post/12753688
> 
> 
> I too spoke to tech support today, about an unrelated issue, but remembered to ask about the room eq. The tech on hand stated that it would not be necessary to send the unit in, that it was indeed a coding issue for which I need the disc, and of course the microphone, at a cost of around $300-400, and should be available in this first quarter of 2008. He went on to mention somehing that struck me as odd only after I hung up; that the room eq was somehow tied to each units serial number.
> 
> 
> He wasn't taking orders or it would have been the quickest $300 - $400 I Ever spent.



Yes, we had word back in September that the ARC upgrade would be licensed (locked) for a specific D2 serial #. Which means you have to pay for it multiple times to upgrade all the D2's in your mansion.


Presumably if you have to swap out a broken D2 and the serial # changes, there is some procedure to get the ARC stuff to work with the new unit.


And I suppose this means there's no cost savings in having the dealer get one mic and use it to upgrade multiple customer units. Since you have to pay full ticket for the new license, you might as well take delivery of your own mic as well.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Capfacsurf* /forum/post/12752695
> 
> 
> Woo Hooo!!!! Was at the Anthem suite yesterday at CES. 29th or 30th floor in the Venetian, can't remember. The good news? The room correction is now available, AND IT WORKS ON THE D1 AS WELL AS THE D2!!!!! I was so thrilled at that bit of news, I kinda' forgot exactly how much the price was. I'm thinking he said around $350, and that includes a disk and an Anthem microphone. It samples a minimum of 5 locations, and a maximum of 10. Sets crossovers for each speaker. Will have new modes in future to allow for different correction profiles, i.e, two channel, two person video audience, 10 person video, etc.
> 
> 
> Didn't see much more new. The room featured the D2, a couple of the big Statement amps, a PlayStation for the BD, 4 parasound subs and bunch of Parasound speakers.
> 
> 
> I asked for A/B of the room correction. They said that wasn't possible now, but they may have an A/B toggle in future updates. He assured me though that the room sounded no where close to what I had experienced before the room correction was applied.



I'm not sure why people think the kit is just a mic and software.










Subject to Anthem's final say, the kit will come with a USB Mic, adjustable stand w/base, USB cable, Mic clip, and software. The software is Mic specific and D2 serial number specific.


It is not true that you can't A/B the room correction.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12753845
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why people think the kit is just a mic and software.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Subject to Anthem's final say, the kit will come with a USB Mic, adjustable stand w/base, USB cable, Mic clip, and software. The software is Mic specific and D2 serial number specific.
> 
> 
> It is not true that you can't A/B the room correction.



OK, so that's useful info: The Mic requires a Windows PC with a USB port. Some of us that are using older windows laptops (to get a real serial port), may need to use a pc-card to add a USB port.


Still looking for details of the minimum Windows PC configuration required by the new software -- and in particular whether any sort of sound card is needed in the PC.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12753924
> 
> 
> OK, so that's useful info: The Mic requires a Windows PC with a USB port. Some of us that are using older windows laptops (to get a real serial port), may need to use a pc-card to add a USB port.
> 
> 
> Still looking for details of the minimum Windows PC configuration required by the new software -- and in particular whether any sort of sound card is needed in the PC.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I'll look into it.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12753924
> 
> 
> OK, so that's useful info: The Mic requires a Windows PC with a USB port. Some of us that are using older windows laptops (to get a real serial port), may need to use a pc-card to add a USB port.
> 
> 
> Still looking for details of the minimum Windows PC configuration required by the new software -- and in particular whether any sort of sound card is needed in the PC.
> 
> --Bob



No sound card is needed.


Both a serial and a USB port are needed along with windows XP.


If you've used a USB to serial adapter that has worked in the past then that should work to cover the serial connection to the D2.


HTH


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12755904
> 
> 
> No sound card is needed.
> 
> 
> Both a serial and a USB port are needed along with windows XP.
> 
> 
> If you've used a USB to serial adapter that has worked in the past then that should work to cover the serial connection to the D2.
> 
> 
> HTH



So *Jim E*. -- Do we ORDER our Room EQ Upgrade from you?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12755904
> 
> 
> No sound card is needed.
> 
> 
> Both a serial and a USB port are needed along with windows XP.
> 
> 
> If you've used a USB to serial adapter that has worked in the past then that should work to cover the serial connection to the D2.
> 
> 
> HTH



I HOPE this will work with a USB 1.1 port. My laptop with a serial port (that works fine for upgrading my D2) only has USB 1.1. I've run into problems when wanting to use it as an audio recording machine since it doesn't support USB 2.0.


Otherwise, I'll have to spring for another laptop.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12756020
> 
> 
> So *Jim E*. -- Do we ORDER our Room EQ Upgrade from you?



LOL! As soon as I know they've released it you guys will be the first to hear the news.


Of course your best bet is to purchase it from your local dealer.


----------



## spann-man

Forgive me if some of this is already answered in this thread as I could not find it. I am considering purchasing one of these two pre-amps if they can meet my needs. I have two HDMI sources forced to 1080p24 and a cable box that will come into this unit. I would pass through these sources to a projector via HDMI. No problem. I also need to output 720p via component to a HDTV. They will not be used at the same time and I cannot output via HDMI into a splitter as I am forcing the 1080p24 and the HDTV will not accept that resolution.


The reason for this is the cable box automatically changes to 1080i when connected to the projector and the HDTV has issue with 1080i (don't ask but it does) and stays at that resolution when you go back to the HDTV. I also cannot output the PS3 to the HDTV as 1080p24 is forced so to get it to work on the HDTV you have to power up the projector and change resolutions on the PS3. Kind of a pain but I can make it work but when I am not around I don't really want my wife to try this if you know what I mean.


So the main question is can the pre-amp downconvert 1080p24 to 720p via component while leaving the HDMI output as passthrough? I am guessing no based on what I have read but maybe someone can give me some insight on this.


Thanks


----------



## xtrmspl

I don't think it will output two different resolutions simultaneously. There are 2 component outputs and output 2 can be set to "unprocessed"


----------



## jkmw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spann-man* /forum/post/12756470
> 
> 
> Forgive me if some of this is already answered in this thread as I could not find it. I am considering purchasing one of these two pre-amps if they can meet my needs. I have two HDMI sources forced to 1080p24 and a cable box that will come into this unit. I would pass through these sources to a projector via HDMI. No problem. I also need to output 720p via component to a HDTV. They will not be used at the same time and I cannot output via HDMI into a splitter as I am forcing the 1080p24 and the HDTV will not accept that resolution.
> 
> 
> The reason for this is the cable box automatically changes to 1080i when connected to the projector and the HDTV has issue with 1080i (don't ask but it does) and stays at that resolution when you go back to the HDTV. I also cannot output the PS3 to the HDTV as 1080p24 is forced so to get it to work on the HDTV you have to power up the projector and change resolutions on the PS3. Kind of a pain but I can make it work but when I am not around I don't really want my wife to try this if you know what I mean.
> 
> 
> So the main question is can the pre-amp downconvert 1080p24 to 720p via component while leaving the HDMI output as passthrough? I am guessing no based on what I have read but maybe someone can give me some insight on this.
> 
> 
> Thanks




I don't post here often, though it is my favorite thread, as others have way more experience than I but it sounds like I have my D2 set up to do exactly what you need it to do for you. I recently upgraded my software version to 1.2x and low and behold, we now have two video out settings. My Video 1 output is set to hdmi at 1080p 60Hz, (frequency is adjustable), which goes to my Sony Ruby, and Video 2 is set to output Component Video at 720p using the Component 2 video output. The Component 2 output runs through a Key Digital Component to RGB converter and from there to a computer monitor but so what, Video 2 is outputing component at a different resolution. To accomplish the switch, you have to go into the D2 setup menu, select item #1 Video output, and toggle between video output config 1 and video output config 2. Seems like it could be done more simply with a 'video 1 / video 2' button on the remote but if this is the case I haven't found it yet. It's still a lot easier then going into the setup mode and changing the video output settings each time I switched to a differnt video screen which is what I used to do.


Hope this works for you and you become a Happy D2 owner!


----------



## xtrmspl

Where did you get 1.2? I thought 1.11 was the latest. I have the AVM 50 so maybe they don't have a new update for that.


----------



## uberanalyst

For what it's worth, here's a picture of the room correction software running on a Dell laptop:

http://blog.ultimateavmag.com/ces2008/010809Anthem/ 


- Dave


----------



## jkmw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrmspl* /forum/post/12756829
> 
> 
> Where did you get 1.2? I thought 1.11 was the latest. I have the AVM 50 so maybe they don't have a new update for that.



1.11 is what Anthem considered their last 'stable' firmware upgrade and as such was posted to the website for users to upload to the D2, (and other units from what you tell me). At the time it came out, I took a 'wait and see' position, after all my v1.06 was working fine with mostly Component Video sources outputting via HDMI. As I converted over to mostly HDMI devices, I began to develop issues switching from one source to another and would frequently need to reboot the D2.


Having read this thread almost religiously from the day I bought my D2, I knew other, more sophisticated versions of the firmware were being made available by Anthem as they made improvements based upon, among many other things, user reported problems. So I called Anthem tech support, explained my recent problems and they very solicitously offered to send me their latest beta version firmware in the hopes that it would solve my HDMI handshake issues. Of course, this is a beta version so I take upon myself all risk related to its use.


Addtitional info: the download went smoothly using a 50' serial cable from the D2 to my Keyspan Serial to USB converter. Am running Windows Vista on the laptop in the theater from which I installed the firmware upgrade. The D2 didn't care which version of Windows I was running as long as I could get the firmware to it intact...but here's the rub, will the new ROOM EQ software run in Vista?


----------



## gblack

My Sony BDP-S500 blu-ray player provides three different video format options for HDMI. Which would be the preferred option from a picture quality perspective?


- YCbCr / RGBPC (HDMI) Y, Cb, Cr

- RGB (16-235)

- RGB (0-255)


The default is YCbCr.


----------



## xtrmspl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkmw* /forum/post/12757691
> 
> 
> 1.11 is what Anthem considered their last 'stable' firmware upgrade and as such was posted to the website for users to upload to the D2, (and other units from what you tell me). At the time it came out, I took a 'wait and see' position, after all my v1.06 was working fine with mostly Component Video sources outputting via HDMI. As I converted over to mostly HDMI devices, I began to develop issues switching from one source to another and would frequently need to reboot the D2.
> 
> 
> Having read this thread almost religiously from the day I bought my D2, I knew other, more sophisticated versions of the firmware were being made available by Anthem as they made improvements based upon, among many other things, user reported problems. So I called Anthem tech support, explained my recent problems and they very solicitously offered to send me their latest beta version firmware in the hopes that it would solve my HDMI handshake issues. Of course, this is a beta version so I take upon myself all risk related to its use.
> 
> 
> Addtitional info: the download went smoothly using a 50' serial cable from the D2 to my Keyspan Serial to USB converter. Am running Windows Vista on the laptop in the theater from which I installed the firmware upgrade. The D2 didn't care which version of Windows I was running as long as I could get the firmware to it intact...but here's the rub, will the new ROOM EQ software run in Vista?



Did this fix all your issues? I've had a few things happen with my AVM 50 where I had to reboot or change the source then back again to get it to work. I wonder if the firmware is exactlly the same for the AVM 50 an D2?


----------



## xtrmspl

Is it possible for Anthem to offer a 1.3 HDMI upgrade in the future for the AVM 50/D2 without having to change the video board or is a hardware change the only way to go from 1.1 to 1.3?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12755904
> 
> 
> No sound card is needed.
> 
> 
> Both a serial and a USB port are needed along with windows XP.
> 
> 
> If you've used a USB to serial adapter that has worked in the past then that should work to cover the serial connection to the D2.
> 
> 
> HTH



Is Windows XP truly the minimum? Firmware installs and the editor applications still run on Windows 98 for example.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrmspl* /forum/post/12758538
> 
> 
> Is it possible for Anthem to offer a 1.3 HDMI upgrade in the future for the AVM 50/D2 without having to change the video board or is a hardware change the only way to go from 1.1 to 1.3?



A hardware change is required. At the very least, the chips that implement the low level HDMI connection between the Anthem and the other device have to be changed. To do more than just lip service to HDMI V1.3 would require other hardware changes as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12757894
> 
> 
> My Sony BDP-S500 blu-ray player provides three different video format options for HDMI. Which would be the preferred option from a picture quality perspective?
> 
> 
> - YCbCr / RGBPC (HDMI) Y, Cb, Cr
> 
> - RGB (16-235)
> 
> - RGB (0-255)
> 
> 
> The default is YCbCr.



The default -- YCbCr -- is correct.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12758581
> 
> 
> Is Windows XP truly the minimum? Firmware installs and the editor applications still run on Windows 98 for example.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I was just passing on the spec but I would venture a guess and say Win 98 should work just fine.


Are you seriously still using Win 98???


----------



## Ross E

I've been reading this thread on and off and the addition of room eq is enough to sway me towards buying a D2. Will the room eq feature be standard on the next round of D2's or is there a newer model on the horizon? I am going to try to find an Anthem dealer in the next few weeks to audition a D2.


Does anyone have an Anthem dealer near them that has one set up in a theater? The nearest to my home is 70 miles and is more than likely just a dealer. They wont have one in stock. I travel constantly and would like to find a dealer that has them in stock and in use in a respectable set up.


Thanks,


Ross


----------



## KCWolfPck

I just applied the 1.21d firmware update to my AVM-50. It did everything I was hoping it would. I love the dual video output configuration. It also fixed my 1080p24 issue with my HD-A30.


The only thing is, now when I view the AVM-50 setup menu, the picture is all garbled up. It has diagonal black, red, and blue lines that are flickering. I can still read the menus, and video of my source signals are fine. It is only the menus.


Any ideas?


Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12758919
> 
> 
> Bob, I was just passing on the spec but I would venture a guess and say Win 98 should work just fine.
> 
> 
> Are you seriously still using Win 98???



Hey, I'm a Mac user! I said it was an OLD PC....

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ross E* /forum/post/12759102
> 
> 
> I've been reading this thread on and off and the addition of room eq is enough to sway me towards buying a D2. Will the room eq feature be standard on the next round of D2's or is there a newer model on the horizon? I am going to try to find an Anthem dealer in the next few weeks to audition a D2.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have an Anthem dealer near them that has one set up in a theater? The nearest to my home is 70 miles and is more than likely just a dealer. They wont have one in stock. I travel constantly and would like to find a dealer that has them in stock and in use in a respectable set up.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Ross



I am sure many D2 owners would invite you into there house to see the D2 in action.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12756241
> 
> 
> LOL! As soon as I know they've released it you guys will be the first to hear the news.
> 
> 
> Of course your best bet is to purchase it from your local dealer.



And you are NOT our INTERNET DEALER?


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12759432
> 
> 
> And you are NOT our INTERNET DEALER?



Sort of. A more accurate statement would be that I'm a dealer on the internet.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12759487
> 
> 
> Sort of. A more accurate statement would be that I'm a dealer on the internet.



There you go a Man who Switches Words


----------



## bluemark81

Considering getting a Blue Ray player (at least now that Warner has announced going with BR), and since the Anthem doesn't decode the new audio formats, I'm wondering what player I should be considering with internal decoding of DTS-MA and Dolby True HD so that the Anthem can receive and output the signal. What do I need to look for in order for it to work with the Anthem?


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12759852
> 
> 
> Considering getting a Blue Ray player (at least now that Warner has announced going with BR), and since the Anthem doesn't decode the new audio formats, I'm wondering what player I should be considering with internal decoding of DTS-MA and Dolby True HD so that the Anthem can receive and output the signal. What do I need to look for in order for it to work with the Anthem?



I went with the Sony Playstation 3 for my bluray player. I thought the idea was crazy at first, but it really has some cool options, and lots of power. It seems to be one of the few players that can be upgraded to 2.0 via a firmware.


Michael


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12759928
> 
> 
> I went with the Sony Playstation 3 for my bluray player. I thought the idea was crazy at first, but it really has some cool options, and lots of power. It seems to be one of the few players that can be upgraded to 2.0 via a firmware.
> 
> 
> Michael



Does it decode the new audio formats that I asked?


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12759852
> 
> 
> I'm wondering what player I should be considering with internal decoding of DTS-MA and Dolby True HD so that the Anthem can receive and output the signal.



From word at CES, both Pioneer and Sony are due to come out with players in 2008 that decode all the advanced audio codecs (including TrueHD and DTS-MA). No time frame or price given.


In the mean time, Panasonic has a new player almost ready to ship. It not only decodes all the codecs internally but it has Blu-ray's final profile (2.0 - BD Live) for interactivity. Price is rumoured to be around $699.


There's a thread about it in the BD hardware section of the forum:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=970806 


Sanjay


----------



## circumstances

Denon and Marantz also announced players that will internally decode MA and TrueHD, albeit still BD profile 1.1


----------



## learflyer

Here's a question for all the PS3 owners out there. Has anyone tried to play the latest Harry Potter movies on Bluray? I borrowed two of them from my neighbour last weekend and tried to play them on my PS3, but couldn't get a picture other than a few brief flashes at the beginning. Then nothing but the blue screen of death. Thje sound track was coming through ok but no picture. The rest of the night was a complete disaster with every other video component causing nothing but grief with HDMI handshakes. It took a complete power down of all my equipment everytime I switched from one source to another.


The bluray discs were brand new - I watched him take the shrink wrap off the box before he gave me the discs. The discs came with a warning that they might not play on older Bluray players without a firmware update. My PS3 had been updated less than 24 hours before trying to watch the discs. My neighbor tried them last night and he had no trouble playing them on his much older PS3 although he doesn't have HDMI which I suspect is the problem.


My D2 is less than 2 months old and is, I believe, running version 1.2 firmware. If anyone else is experiencing trouble with watching new Bluray discs on their PS3 / D2 combo I'd like to hear about it and any fixes you have found. I bought the PS3 for its Bluray capabilities and am sure this is just a glitch but if I can't get it work I'll need to take it back and try a standalone player.


RW


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/12760021
> 
> 
> From word at CES, both Pioneer and Sony are due to come out with players in 2008 that decode all the advanced audio codecs (including TrueHD and DTS-MA). No time frame or price given.
> 
> 
> In the mean time, Panasonic has a new player almost ready to ship. It not only decodes all the codecs internally but it has Blu-ray's final profile (2.0 - BD Live) for interactivity. Price is rumoured to be around $699.
> 
> 
> There's a thread about it in the BD hardware section of the forum:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=970806
> 
> 
> Sanjay



According to CNET, the Panny does not decode the audio formats:

http://reviews.cnet.com/video-player...-32730548.html


----------



## tarichar

Your link is for the BD30 which is available now and not the new BD50.










troy


----------



## PooperScooper

All the HDM player info can be found in their respective forums. Please lets try to restrict this to player->D1/D2/AVM50 issues. Thanks.


larry


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/12759158
> 
> 
> I just applied the 1.21d firmware update to my AVM-50. It did everything I was hoping it would. I love the dual video output configuration. It also fixed my 1080p24 issue with my HD-A30.
> 
> 
> The only thing is, now when I view the AVM-50 setup menu, the picture is all garbled up. It has diagonal black, red, and blue lines that are flickering. I can still read the menus, and video of my source signals are fine. It is only the menus.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



That's interesting. Others, including myself, have had problems with seeing setup text on the display. There is known issue with the s-video "circuitry" that causes problems with the setup menu because s-video is used to generate the text. However, this issue seems to be more prevalent since 1.21d. I do know they slightly modified some clocking to fix the "crackling with mch PCM audio" bug, but don't know if the changed clocks would affect the s-video or other video sections. It may just be conincidental also.


Once thing to try is connect a s-video source and see how it works.


larry


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *learflyer* /forum/post/12761068
> 
> 
> Here's a question for all the PS3 owners out there. Has anyone tried to play the latest Harry Potter movies on Bluray? I borrowed two of them from my neighbour last weekend and tried to play them on my PS3, but couldn't get a picture other than a few brief flashes at the beginning. Then nothing but the blue screen of death. Thje sound track was coming through ok but no picture. The rest of the night was a complete disaster with every other video component causing nothing but grief with HDMI handshakes. It took a complete power down of all my equipment everytime I switched from one source to another.
> 
> 
> The bluray discs were brand new - I watched him take the shrink wrap off the box before he gave me the discs. The discs came with a warning that they might not play on older Bluray players without a firmware update. My PS3 had been updated less than 24 hours before trying to watch the discs. My neighbor tried them last night and he had no trouble playing them on his much older PS3 although he doesn't have HDMI which I suspect is the problem.
> 
> 
> My D2 is less than 2 months old and is, I believe, running version 1.2 firmware. If anyone else is experiencing trouble with watching new Bluray discs on their PS3 / D2 combo I'd like to hear about it and any fixes you have found. I bought the PS3 for its Bluray capabilities and am sure this is just a glitch but if I can't get it work I'll need to take it back and try a standalone player.
> 
> 
> RW




I have a PS3 and D2. We have played all the BR discs from the HP ultimate BR collection, no problem.


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12762377
> 
> 
> That's interesting. Others, including myself, have had problems with seeing setup text on the display. There is known issue with the s-video "circuitry" that causes problems with the setup menu because s-video is used to generate the text. However, this issue seems to be more prevalent since 1.21d. I do know they slightly modified some clocking to fix the "crackling with mch PCM audio" bug, but don't know if the changed clocks would affect the s-video or other video sections. It may just be conincidental also.
> 
> 
> Once thing to try is connect a s-video source and see how it works.
> 
> 
> larry



I don't have an s-video cable long enough to reach my projector (which is hooked up via HDMI only from the AVM-50 monitor out). I was just making sure that I wasn't missing a setting somewhere. It's not the end of the world for me as I'm not in the menus very often....it's just one of those nagging things. Hopefully it'll get fixed in a future update.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12750629
> 
> 
> What info did he give you?



I'm not going to pass on information that I believe is inaccurate. I would like info as to Price and Availability of the room correction system, though.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12755904
> 
> 
> No sound card is needed.
> 
> 
> Both a serial and a USB port are needed along with windows XP.
> 
> 
> If you've used a USB to serial adapter that has worked in the past then that should work to cover the serial connection to the D2.
> 
> 
> HTH



Sure makes me happy I bought a PC card serial adapter for my tablet PC. With all the flaky USB-Serial adapters out there (I've had to buy 3 different ones to get them to work with various components), it's worked much better for me. That being said, the Keyspan USB-Serial adapter that Anthem suggested works just fine for the D2.


----------



## jkmw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12758919
> 
> 
> Bob, I was just passing on the spec but I would venture a guess and say Win 98 should work just fine.
> 
> 
> Are you seriously still using Win 98???



Jim, sorry to bother you about operating systems but one more quetion should do it, at least as far as Windows is concerned...Have you heard whether the Room EQ software will run in Windows Vista?


mark


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/12763753
> 
> 
> I'm not going to pass on information that I believe is inaccurate. I would like info as to Price and Availability of the room correction system, though.



THe range of prices that's being thrown around is $350-400 but to my knowledge, no final price has been disclosed to the dealers.


Availability is still up in the air a but but not less tha 4 weeks at a minimum.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkmw* /forum/post/12766130
> 
> 
> Jim, sorry to bother you about operating systems but one more quetion should do it, at least as far as Windows is concerned...Have you heard whether the Room EQ software will run in Windows Vista?
> 
> 
> mark



Still waiting to hear from the powers that be.










Will follow-up.


Jim


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ross E* /forum/post/12759102
> 
> 
> I've been reading this thread on and off and the addition of room eq is enough to sway me towards buying a D2. Will the room eq feature be standard on the next round of D2's or is there a newer model on the horizon? I am going to try to find an Anthem dealer in the next few weeks to audition a D2.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have an Anthem dealer near them that has one set up in a theater? The nearest to my home is 70 miles and is more than likely just a dealer. They wont have one in stock. I travel constantly and would like to find a dealer that has them in stock and in use in a respectable set up.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Ross



Yeah, I've found that not all Anthem dealers necessarilly have the D2 setup. I've had good luck with 6th Avenue Electronics, a chain in New Jersey having them on display with the Paradigm Statement speakers and a projector. So, if you're in the area, you can check them out. They're a chain store, not an independent mom&pop dealer (I got an ok deal from them, but I can usually squeeze out a few more percentage discount from independent dealers, at least from my experience).


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/12763719
> 
> 
> I don't have an s-video cable long enough to reach my projector (which is hooked up via HDMI only from the AVM-50 monitor out). I was just making sure that I wasn't missing a setting somewhere. It's not the end of the world for me as I'm not in the menus very often....it's just one of those nagging things. Hopefully it'll get fixed in a future update.



I meant s-video out from DVD player or Tivo to D2. See if D2 can display s-video input via HDMI to your PJ properly. If it can't, it's a symptom of the problematic s-video board/circuits. The s-video circuit feeds the HDMI output - just like how the OSD is displayed. Once the D2 is setup, it's not bad. But, going through a new setup - like when ARC arrives - can be a pain.


larry


----------



## Capfacsurf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12753532
> 
> 
> Did you ask the Anthem CES guys about any new products slated for later this year?
> 
> --Bob




No, I was just too darn excited about the room correction to ask about anything else. The room was packed for the demo's which ran every 20 mins or so. It was interesting that they chose an Oppo for standard def stuff and the Play Station for Blu Ray.


Another interesting but off topic observation: I didn't see a single room that had cable elevators, and power cords were often entangled with ICs and speaker cables. Yeah, it is just a show, but you'd think that if the esoteric cable management stuff could make an audible, difference........


----------



## tngiloy

So how does this room eq work? I understand for your $400 you get a widows download and a microphone.

Does the computer need to be connected to the D2 during the room eq, as it does for D2 software upgrades, via a serial port rs-232 cable?

Does the micophone connect to the computer or the D2?

Is the room correction done automatically?

Can the room eq be set up for different speaker configurations? I use my cd's in 'analog dsp' for stereo w/subs, my sacd's in '6 ch', and movies in 7.2. Can the d2 be set up for different eq's for different speaker configuations?

If anyone has actually seen the Anthem room eq in action could you please enlighten me.

Tom


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12766584
> 
> 
> I meant s-video out from DVD player or Tivo to D2. See if D2 can display s-video input via HDMI to your PJ properly. If it can't, it's a symptom of the problematic s-video board/circuits. The s-video circuit feeds the HDMI output - just like how the OSD is displayed. Once the D2 is setup, it's not bad. But, going through a new setup - like when ARC arrives - can be a pain.
> 
> 
> larry



Yeah, I realized that shortly after I posted. Funny thing, when I got home and powered it up today....everything worked fine. I must have just needed a restart?


----------



## jkmw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spann-man* /forum/post/12756470
> 
> 
> Forgive me if some of this is already answered in this thread as I could not find it. I am considering purchasing one of these two pre-amps if they can meet my needs. I have two HDMI sources forced to 1080p24 and a cable box that will come into this unit. I would pass through these sources to a projector via HDMI. No problem. I also need to output 720p via component to a HDTV. They will not be used at the same time and I cannot output via HDMI into a splitter as I am forcing the 1080p24 and the HDTV will not accept that resolution.
> 
> 
> The reason for this is the cable box automatically changes to 1080i when connected to the projector and the HDTV has issue with 1080i (don't ask but it does) and stays at that resolution when you go back to the HDTV. I also cannot output the PS3 to the HDTV as 1080p24 is forced so to get it to work on the HDTV you have to power up the projector and change resolutions on the PS3. Kind of a pain but I can make it work but when I am not around I don't really want my wife to try this if you know what I mean.
> 
> 
> So the main question is can the pre-amp downconvert 1080p24 to 720p via component while leaving the HDMI output as passthrough? I am guessing no based on what I have read but maybe someone can give me some insight on this.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Spann-man,


I have edited my response #10611 to your post above to reflect what the new Video output settings really do. Initially I had thought that the D2 would output the two separate video settings simultaneously but this is not the case, (maybe someday?). But you weren't asking the processor to do this anyway, (*I* was hoping it would). For your purposes, if I understand you correctly, it is still pretty much a simple toggle back and forth between two preset video outputs. I think my edited post #10611 says it a little more clearly.


Hope this doesn't put you off your purchase


----------



## jkmw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrmspl* /forum/post/12758505
> 
> 
> Did this fix all your issues? I've had a few things happen with my AVM 50 where I had to reboot or change the source then back again to get it to work. I wonder if the firmware is exactly the same for the AVM 50 an D2?



xtrmspl,


Sorry it took so long for me to answer your question re whether the upgrade fixed the source switching handshake issues but haven't had a moment in the theater since I wrote about my upgrade journey. Yes! I just gave the D2 a thorough wringing out and while it took a moment for the D2 to process the switch, it always managed to work itself out correctly and 100% of the time. There were a few heart fluttering moments when the screen would flash in all green or all pink but the D2 now manages to get the different sources processed without a hitch. Thanks Anthem!










(sources include Comcast Hd DVR, Oppo 970, PS3, and XBOX 360 with HD DVD drive. Denon 5910 is out for upgrade and repair so I was not able to ascertain whether the D2 would have a switching problem with it. I use it mostly for SACD, CD, and DVD-A playback so seldom use the video section. Still, till I get it back, it's an unknown but do not anticipate problems.)



mark


----------



## spann-man

JKMW,


Thanks for looking into this. Sounds like it will do exactly what I am looking to do as I will only use one output at a time.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/12770919
> 
> 
> Yeah, I realized that shortly after I posted. Funny thing, when I got home and powered it up today....everything worked fine. I must have just needed a restart?



Maybe. When I tried it s-video worked ok and then after a little bit the video degenerated to almost black and white with some banding - and no menu on the display when selected.


larry


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12759606
> 
> 
> There you go a Man who Switches Words



I am interested in this new word switching upgrade. When will that be available?


PS. Would there be any reason why the Anthem room at CES did not include Paradigm Statement speakers and subs rather than the parasounds?


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12759852
> 
> 
> Considering getting a Blue Ray player (at least now that Warner has announced going with BR), and since the Anthem doesn't decode the new audio formats, I'm wondering what player I should be considering with internal decoding of DTS-MA and Dolby True HD so that the Anthem can receive and output the signal. What do I need to look for in order for it to work with the Anthem?



Currently the Panasonic xxx30 (don't know exact model) is highly regarded by what I see from the folks posting and they are coming out with a new xxx50 model that will internally decode TrueHD and DTS MA (First player to do this that I know of). There are links 3-5 days ago here.


That will be the one I get if I do go purple as long as their new found expectation of having the war in the bag doesn't inflate prices. It is also Profile 2.0 ready with an Ethernet port.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/12774922
> 
> 
> Currently the Panasonic xxx30 (don't know exact model) is highly regarded by what I see from the folks posting and they are coming out with a new xxx50 model that will internally decode TrueHD and DTS MA (First player to do this that I know of). There are links 3-5 days ago here.
> 
> 
> That will be the one I get if I do go purple as long as their new found expectation of having the war in the bag doesn't inflate prices. It is also Profile 2.0 ready with an Ethernet port.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



As good as the Panasonic 50 sounds - there are many

many current owners of the 10, 20 and 30 who worry

that the 50 will have the LFE HDMI BUG. To date Panasonic

has not fixed this bug on any of their models already in

the field with this LFE BUG.


----------



## work permit

Can I configure the anthem to switch video output resolutions easily?


I have a crt projector that I would like to run at 1600x1200. I also have a 1366x768 plasma display. Both plasma and crt have hdmi inputs. I would like to hook both up to the Anthem (through an HDMI splitter). I'd then like to switch between 1366x768 and 1080p depending on which device I'm watching.


Is this possible? Ideally I'd like to be able to switch resolutions with the touch of a front panel button.


----------



## buckley44

I have a D2 with a paradigm speaker set up, Signature 8s,signature c5, adp surrounds,S4s and big servo 18" sig servo sub,powered by anthem p5 for surrounds and classe mono's for front's does anyone have this set up & if so what are your advanced settings in the d2 menue for all your crossover settings ? and what do you have your settigs for the sub set for if you are using the d2's advanced settings?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *work permit* /forum/post/12777865
> 
> 
> Can I configure the anthem to switch video output resolutions easily?
> 
> 
> I have a crt projector that I would like to run at 1600x1200. I also have a 1366x768 plasma display. Both plasma and crt have hdmi inputs. I would like to hook both up to the Anthem (through an HDMI splitter). I'd then like to switch between 1366x768 and 1080p depending on which device I'm watching.
> 
> 
> Is this possible? Ideally I'd like to be able to switch resolutions with the touch of a front panel button.



There is no easy way to do this at the moment.


In software versions V1.20 and higher (shipping in new machines, but only available by email from Anthem tech support for older machines) there are 2 Video Output configurations, either of which can be assigned to any input. But there's no easy way to switch the one being used at the moment.


So your best bet would be to use the "overlaid" inputs feature. I.e set up duplicate entries for DVD1 vs DVD2 and for TV1 vs TV2, etc., and assign Video Output Configuration 1 to half of them and 2 to the other half.


Then you will switch output resolutions simply by selecting DVD1 vs. DVD2 as the input source for example.


This is not ideal of course because there are only so many overlays. But it is better than nothing.


Also, you may have trouble with an HDMI "splitter" if both TVs won't accept the current Anthem output resolution. An HDMI "switch" wouldn't have that problem.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkmw* /forum/post/12766130
> 
> 
> Jim, sorry to bother you about operating systems but one more quetion should do it, at least as far as Windows is concerned...Have you heard whether the Room EQ software will run in Windows Vista?
> 
> 
> mark



Sorry to be the bearer of bad news:


1. Windows 98 is NOT supported;

2. Windows Vista if NOT officially supported yet. You could however try running the software in compatibility mode.


----------



## work permit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12779352
> 
> 
> There is no easy way to do this at the moment.
> 
> 
> In software versions V1.20 and higher (shipping in new machines, but only available by email from Anthem tech support for older machines) there are 2 Video Output configurations, either of which can be assigned to any input. But there's no easy way to switch the one being used at the moment.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks bob. Is there a way to use the rs-232 port to switch the output configuration being used?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *work permit* /forum/post/12781166
> 
> 
> Thanks bob. Is there a way to use the rs-232 port to switch the output configuration being used?



You'll need to contact Anthem on that.


I haven't seen an updated version of their .XLS file with the RS-232 commands for the V1.20 or later firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12780653
> 
> 
> Sorry to be the bearer of bad news:
> 
> 
> 1. Windows 98 is NOT supported;
> 
> 2. Windows Vista if NOT officially supported yet. You could however try running the software in compatibility mode.



Sigh....


So the cost for me is roughly $399 to Anthem plus the cost of an XP laptop or equivalent.


Another reason to hate Microsoft....

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12785375
> 
> 
> Sigh....
> 
> So the cost for me is roughly $399 to Anthem plus the cost of an XP laptop or equivalent.
> 
> Another reason to hate Microsoft....
> 
> --Bob



Sorry, Bob but imo, your "hate" is a little misplaced here.

I think the term Win 98 should be a clue, as in 1998









Why not ask Anthem why they don't support an 11 year-old OS or when they still use the RS-232 interface(defined in 1969).

I think the real issue here is that the D2 lacking a specialized chip, needs a more modern OS and PC hardware to support the sophisticated ARC software.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12779352
> 
> 
> There is no easy way to do this at the moment.
> 
> 
> In software versions V1.20 and higher (shipping in new machines, but only available by email from Anthem tech support for older machines) there are 2 Video Output configurations, either of which can be assigned to any input. But there's no easy way to switch the one being used at the moment.
> 
> 
> So your best bet would be to use the "overlaid" inputs feature. I.e set up duplicate entries for DVD1 vs DVD2 and for TV1 vs TV2, etc., and assign Video Output Configuration 1 to half of them and 2 to the other half.
> 
> 
> Then you will switch output resolutions simply by selecting DVD1 vs. DVD2 as the input source for example.
> 
> 
> This is not ideal of course because there are only so many overlays. But it is better than nothing.
> 
> 
> Also, you may have trouble with an HDMI "splitter" if both TVs won't accept the current Anthem output resolution. An HDMI "switch" wouldn't have that problem.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


That's not completely true. It is possible to switch easily between the two video output resolutions by holding down the enter button (mode) on the remote and up will come 'scale output', by pressing the mode button again it will let you switch between output 1 and output 2 video resolutions.


You do need to setup each input as video 1 or video 2 resolution initially but can switch easily from the remote if you switch which tv you want to watch.


John


----------



## work permit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12786027
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> That's not completely true. It is possible to switch easily between the two video output resolutions by holding down the enter button (mode) on the remote and up will come 'scale output', by pressing the mode button again it will let you switch between output 1 and output 2 video resolutions.
> 
> 
> You do need to setup each input as video 1 or video 2 resolution initially but can switch easily from the remote if you switch which tv you want to watch.
> 
> 
> John



That's great. Is that method available on the rs-232 port?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12785375
> 
> 
> Sigh....
> 
> 
> So the cost for me is roughly $399 to Anthem plus the cost of an XP laptop or equivalent.
> 
> 
> Another reason to hate Microsoft....
> 
> --Bob


*COME ON BOB* - or should I say *Mr. MAC*










Get a NEW MAC and All your problems are SOLVED.


They are INTEL based and run XP Native at the same

time as MAC OS X.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *work permit* /forum/post/12781166
> 
> 
> Thanks bob. Is there a way to use the rs-232 port to switch the output configuration being used?



From the latest XLS file I have:


SCF nx Set "SOURCE SETUP" n - "VIDEO OUT CONFIG" to x=0,1 (0=video out config 1, 1=video out config 2)


----------



## learflyer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12763159
> 
> 
> I have a PS3 and D2. We have played all the BR discs from the HP ultimate BR collection, no problem.



Thanks Tim


I tried another (older) BD in my PS3 the other night and it wouldn't work either so I realized that it had to be in my setup. Turns out the Frame Lock was activating automatically and as soon as I turned it off I got a picture. Have now run two BD's through on the PS3 without any problems. I also haven't had (knock on wood) any HDMI handshake problems (when I switch sources) since turning off the Frame Lock. I hope it's that easy. Now all I have to do is get my neighbor to lend me his BD movies again.


RW


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12786027
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> That's not completely true. It is possible to switch easily between the two video output resolutions by holding down the enter button (mode) on the remote and up will come 'scale output', by pressing the mode button again it will let you switch between output 1 and output 2 video resolutions.
> 
> 
> You do need to setup each input as video 1 or video 2 resolution initially but can switch easily from the remote if you switch which tv you want to watch.
> 
> 
> John



Thanks for the clarification!


I do wish Anthem would at least make the manual for the new software available for download so I could check out stuff like this. I still have no reason to switch to that software yet, so I'm working off reports here.....


By the way, did they add any of this Video Adjust stuff to the list of multi-key, direct IR controls in Appendix A? And is there a new Excel file with an updated list of RS-232 controls available?


EDITED TO ADD: Ah! I see Joe C5 has answered the RS-232 side of this question above.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12788566
> 
> *COME ON BOB* - or should I say *Mr. MAC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get a NEW MAC and All your problems are SOLVED.
> 
> 
> They are INTEL based and run XP Native at the same
> 
> time as MAC OS X.



Even new Mac laptops don't come with a real serial port however. So you are subject to the USB/Serial adapter problem.


Anyway, that's likely how I'll do it. I'm just lazy and didn't want to futz with setting up a new Windows OS installation just for this. But I think I'll still use my trusty Windows 98 laptop for the firmware upgrade itself. It's old, and the screen is almost too dim to read anymore, but for installing software like this it works without problems.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *learflyer* /forum/post/12789586
> 
> 
> Thanks Tim
> 
> 
> I tried another (older) BD in my PS3 the other night and it wouldn't work either so I realized that it had to be in my setup. Turns out the Frame Lock was activating automatically and as soon as I turned it off I got a picture. Have now run two BD's through on the PS3 without any problems. I also haven't had (knock on wood) any HDMI handshake problems (when I switch sources) since turning off the Frame Lock. I hope it's that easy. Now all I have to do is get my neighbor to lend me his BD movies again.
> 
> 
> RW



It's good to remind people that the Frame Lock = Auto feature can be a source of problems, and is best used only if you are trying to deal with an odd case that can't be handled otherwise.


Also remember that Frame Lock is a per-input setting. That means you should select each input in turn (including any overlay inputs you are using such as DVD2) and bring up Video Source Adjust / Output (under the "7" key) to confirm that you have Frame Lock = Off set for each of them.


I also recommend you use Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO for all HDMI inputs (again including any overlay inputs). This simplifies the work the source device has to do to establish the HDMI connection (the Anthem does the hard stuff).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/12785564
> 
> 
> Sorry, Bob but imo, your "hate" is a little misplaced here.
> 
> I think the term Win 98 should be a clue, as in 1998
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not ask Anthem why they don't support an 11 year-old OS or when they still use the RS-232 interface(defined in 1969).
> 
> I think the real issue here is that the D2 lacking a specialized chip, needs a more modern OS and PC hardware to support the sophisticated ARC software.



Nah, the problem is that Anthem hasn't realized the the importance of making their software run on modern Mac hardware and OS X.


For which I blame Microsoft....

(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12789707
> 
> 
> Even new Mac laptops don't come with a real serial port however. So you are subject to the USB/Serial adapter problem.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Even Modern PCs no longer have a real serial port

unless you buy a desktop unit an install a serial card.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12789821
> 
> 
> Even Modern PCs no longer have a real serial port
> 
> unless you buy a desktop unit an install a serial card.



Exactly. I have managed to avoid this whole USB/Serial adapter fiasco (which is largely an issue of Windows drivers and Windows I/O) but now there's no good choice. Buying and setting up a desktop unit near the D2 would probably aggravate me just as much.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12789871
> 
> 
> Exactly. I have managed to avoid this whole USB/Serial adapter fiasco (which is largely an issue of Windows drivers and Windows I/O) but now there's no good choice. Buying and setting up a desktop unit near the D2 would probably aggravate me just as much.
> 
> --Bob



I have BOTH a desktop PC with real Serial

and a Laptop PC with USB to Serial. BOTH

work fine - you just need to get the right

USB to serial.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12789646
> 
> 
> Thanks for the clarification!
> 
> 
> I do wish Anthem would at least make the manual for the new software available for download so I could check out stuff like this. I still have no reason to switch to that software yet, so I'm working off reports here.....




Anyone needing a Ver 1.21 Anthem D2 manual can PM me for a PDF copy. Include your regular vemail address as

the PDF file of the manual is too large to attach to a forum post.


Stew


----------



## RIppolito

As you can tell from the title, I am using a Toshiba HD-A1 to play HD-DVD's. This player has an on-board decoder for Dolby TrueHD: I use the HDMI interconnect to bring that into my AVM50. I also use the HD-A1 (and HDMI interconnect) for audio CD's.


I have two questions. First, has anyone done a comparison of the HDMI out vs the 5.1 analog out? If not, does anyone have a recommendation? Second, which interconnect do you think will produce the best CD quality?


Thanks in advance,


Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/12790343
> 
> 
> As you can tell from the title, I am using a Toshiba HD-A1 to play HD-DVD's. This player has an on-board decoder for Dolby TrueHD: I use the HDMI interconnect to bring that into my AVM50. I also use the HD-A1 (and HDMI interconnect) for audio CD's.
> 
> 
> I have two questions. First, has anyone done a comparison of the HDMI out vs the 5.1 analog out? If not, does anyone have a recommendation? Second, which interconnect do you think will produce the best CD quality?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Ron



When you use the analog outputs from the player, quality is largely a function of the Digital to Analog audio output Converter stage (audio DACs) in the player.


The Anthem has very good quality DACs so unless there is a bug affecting the HDMI audio output of the player it will almost certainly be better to use HDMI audio to the Anthem and let the Anthem convert that to analog.


Also when you feed analog audio into the Anthem it has to re-digitize that before it can do any processing on it. Now the Anthem does that very well, but still, it is better to send the audio over in its original, digital form, and eliminate that extra digitizing step.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12789788
> 
> 
> Nah, the problem is that Anthem hasn't realized the the importance of making their software run on modern Mac hardware and OS X.
> 
> 
> For which I blame Microsoft....
> 
> (grin!)
> 
> --Bob



Hey Bob,

I bought a used laptop with XP on it - refurb HP, cost me $400 - this I now use exclusively for updating the D2. I'm sure there are even better deals than this out there...lot of corporate refurbs at used stores - many in excellent condition.

/\\/\\


----------



## Carlton Bale

I looking to connect the output from an Xantech 79-144 IR connecting block to the IR input of the D2. I know I can connect an IR emitter to the connecting block and stick it on the front of the D2, but I'd rather avoid that option. With my previous receiver, I was able to connect a 3.5mm cable between the Xantech and the receiver to pass along the IR signal.


Does anyone know if there is a way to connect this to the rear panel IR emitter input? It looks like there is only power and signal return on the D2, which wasn't what I was expecting. (I think I need signal and ground.) Any ideas?


----------



## rsnodgrass

Eagerly awaiting room equalization for my D2...can't wait! Just tri-amped my L/R speakers on the path towards removing the passive crossovers, definitive increase in sound (but I suspect partially due to getting significantly nicer amp).


I'm still waiting to get my D2 back, running my old pre-amp and DVDO VP50, so I'm sure I'll be blown away again when my D2 returns.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12789788
> 
> 
> Nah, the problem is that Anthem hasn't realized the the importance of making their software run on modern Mac hardware and OS X.
> 
> 
> For which I blame Microsoft....
> 
> (grin!)
> 
> --Bob



Ahhh, makes sense now


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12776318
> 
> 
> As good as the Panasonic 50 sounds - there are many
> 
> many current owners of the 10, 20 and 30 who worry
> 
> that the 50 will have the LFE HDMI BUG. To date Panasonic
> 
> has not fixed this bug on any of their models already in
> 
> the field with this LFE BUG.



Is this bug supposed to be any different the the supposed low LFE issue with the HD-A1's? Cause that is currently no issue for me with the D2.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/12794969
> 
> 
> Is this bug supposed to be any different the the supposed low LFE issue with the HD-A1's? Cause that is currently no issue for me with the D2.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



I have no clue what you are talking about - sorry.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/12791326
> 
> 
> I looking to connect the output from an Xantech 79-144 IR connecting block to the IR input of the D2. I know I can connect an IR emitter to the connecting block and stick it on the front of the D2, but I'd rather avoid that option. With my previous receiver, I was able to connect a 3.5mm cable between the Xantech and the receiver to pass along the IR signal.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if there is a way to connect this to the rear panel IR emitter input? It looks like there is only power and signal return on the D2, which wasn't what I was expecting. (I think I need signal and ground.) Any ideas?



See Section 2.5 of the Anthem manual. The inbound IR control connections on the rear of the unit are all part of a single connecting block that includes ground, 12V power, and 3 separate signal lines. These three, rear, incoming IR controls can be separately enabled in the Setup menu. If you don't need to power your external control source, just use the ground line and any one of the 3 signal lines.

--Bob


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/12794969
> 
> 
> Is this bug supposed to be any different the the supposed low LFE issue with the HD-A1's? Cause that is currently no issue for me with the D2.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



There isn't any low lfe issue with the A1's and never was. It's -10db where it should be assuming you set all speakers to large. It's somewhere around -15db with all speakers to small, again where it should be.


With the A2/XA2, there was an issue which I believe was subsequently fixed with firmware. It only occurs with BM engaged on the player. There's a lengthy thread authored by MauneyM on this in the HDDVD player forum. If you use it via HDMI and set all speakers to large/distances to zero/levels to zero, and use the D2/AVM50 to do all the BM, then again, there's no issue anyway.


----------



## bgrounds

I have an epson 1080 home cinema UB, Marantz dv 9600 output in 480i. When the D2 is set to output in 1080/24 the picture gets choppy but works fine in 1080i/60.


My concern is that when I make my move to Blu Ray the native output is 1080/24, I'm thinking that the best picture would be if I set the D2 to output 1080i/24.


Sorry if this has been posted before.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/12798213
> 
> 
> I have an epson 1080 home cinema UB, Marantz dv 9600 output in 480i. When the D2 is set to output in 1080/24 the picture gets choppy but works fine in 1080i/60.
> 
> 
> My concern is that when I make my move to Blu Ray the native output is 1080/24, I'm thinking that the best picture would be if I set the D2 to output 1080i/24.
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been posted before.



Anthem still doesn't have 1080i/60 or 480i/60 conversion of "film-based" content to 1080p/24 working right. The conversion from 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 works OK but not perfectly with some displays but the conversion from 480i/60 to 1080p/24 is not even close to useful yet.


So use 1080i/60 or 1080p/60 output from the D2 with such sources even when watching film-based content.


When you get your Blu-Ray, the source will be 1080p/24, so sending that to 1080p/24 output from the D2 will work just fine. Use the two Video Output configurations in the V1.20 or later D2 software. Set up one as 1080p/60 output (or 1080i/60) and set the other as 1080p/24 output. And assign them to different overlay inputs (e.g., DVD1 vs DVD2) for easy access.


Of course this assumes your TV will actually accept 1080p/24 as a valid input and "do the right thing" with it. EDITED TO ADD: And keep in mind that 1080p/24 output is only useful if you happen to be watching "film-based" content, i.e., movies.


We expect that Anthem will be concentrating on getting the 1080i/60 or 480i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion right as the next step after they ship the version with the Room EQ stuff in a few weeks.

--Bob


----------



## bgrounds

Thanks for the fast reply... How do I get the Version 1.20 software. The only thing I see available on the Anthem site is V1.11...


Thanks again...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/12799027
> 
> 
> Thanks for the fast reply... How do I get the Version 1.20 software. The only thing I see available on the Anthem site is V1.11...
> 
> 
> Thanks again...



Yeah, for some reason they stopped updating the software on the web site a year ago.


If you give Anthem Tech Support a call and let them know the details of your setup they will email it to you -- most likely V1.21d. Or you could wait a few weeks until the version with the Room EQ stuff enabled becomes available. That will save you doing the update twice.

--Bob


----------



## bgrounds

Great, thanks. They need to put owners on some kind of email update list.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/12799903
> 
> 
> Great, thanks. They need to put owners on some kind of email update list.



I doubt you NEED new FW. You need a Blu-Ray 1080p/24

source and then you will HAVE NO CHOPPINESS.


----------



## Toyo321

Hey guys need some info on a D2 issue. Just purchased a Sony BDP-S2000es and downloaded the 3.50 firmware and I used a Tibutaries HDMI 5 series 1.3 cable, and was getting a complete video drop for a couple of seconds and then a complete blue screen condition at completely at random intervals. The video eventually within ten seconds went back to normal.


I have the original 1.11 firmware and will be requesting 1.21d from Anthem tech support.


Has anyone had any issues with this player that is using a D2 also?


I would appreciate any feedback on this issue or others.


----------



## bgrounds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12799290
> 
> 
> Yeah, for some reason they stopped updating the software on the web site a year ago.
> 
> 
> If you give Anthem Tech Support a call and let them know the details of your setup they will email it to you -- most likely V1.21d. Or you could wait a few weeks until the version with the Room EQ stuff enabled becomes available. That will save you doing the update twice.
> 
> --Bob



They are going to send the latest firmware v1.21d. They also said that the Room EQ is most likely months away.


----------



## Carlton Bale




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12795788
> 
> 
> See Section 2.5 of the Anthem manual. The inbound IR control connections on the rear of the unit are all part of a single connecting block that includes ground, 12V power, and 3 separate signal lines. These three, rear, incoming IR controls can be separately enabled in the Setup menu. If you don't need to power your external control source, just use the ground line and any one of the 3 signal lines.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. I looked right at it in the manual and missed the ground connection. I guess I didn't realized the icon represented ground, but it seems pretty obvious now. Thanks for your help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/12807795
> 
> 
> They are going to send the latest firmware v1.21d. They also said that the Room EQ is most likely months away.



If it turns out to be "months" there are going to be angry mobs headed in their direction! (grin!)

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12810019
> 
> 
> If it turns out to be "months" there are going to be angry mobs headed in their direction! (grin!)
> 
> --Bob



The international sales manager of anthem just emailed me to coordinate with my dealer here in the Philippines about the NEW REQ which will be available at the end of the month.


Alvin


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Toyo321* /forum/post/12804225
> 
> 
> Hey guys need some info on a D2 issue. Just purchased a Sony BDP-S2000es and downloaded the 3.50 firmware and I used a Tibutaries HDMI 5 series 1.3 cable, and was getting a complete video drop for a couple of seconds and then a complete blue screen condition at completely at random intervals. The video eventually within ten seconds went back to normal.
> 
> 
> I have the original 1.11 firmware and will be requesting 1.21d from Anthem tech support.
> 
> 
> Has anyone had any issues with this player that is using a D2 also?
> 
> 
> I would appreciate any feedback on this issue or others.



I had the same problem with a sony ps3 and v.1.21d solved the issue.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/12814327
> 
> 
> The international sales manager of anthem just emailed me to coordinate with my dealer here in the Philippines about the NEW REQ which will be available at the end of the month.
> 
> 
> Alvin



Sounds like a good sign to me!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/12814327
> 
> 
> The international sales manager of anthem just emailed me to coordinate with my dealer here in the Philippines about the NEW REQ which will be available at the end of the month.
> 
> 
> Alvin



AV Tourism to the Philippines takes a dramatic jump....!

--Bob


----------



## ankita

I recently bought PS3 connected to anthem avm 50 (V1.11 software) through HDMI on DVD2 which in turn is connected to JVC RS1 projector through HDMI. how do I get 1080p/24 output ? regarding audio output should I select LPCM or true HD from PS3. I also have a HD XA2 connected on DVD1 to anthem outputting 1080p/60 to RS1

thanks

ankita


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/12820061
> 
> 
> I recently bought PS3 connected to anthem avm 50 (V1.11 software) through HDMI on DVD2 which in turn is connected to JVC RS1 projector through HDMI. how do I get 1080p/24 output ? regarding audio output should I select LPCM or true HD from PS3. I also have a HD XA2 connected on DVD1 to anthem outputting 1080p/60 to RS1
> 
> thanks
> 
> ankita



You have to upgrade firmware to 1.12 at least for 1080p/24. Set audio to PCM on the PS3. Be sure your PS3 is properly configured in the Source setup of the AVM50 also.


----------



## Ranger620




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/12826837
> 
> 
> You have to upgrade firmware to 1.12 at least for 1080p/24. Set audio to PCM on the PS3. Be sure your PS3 is properly configured in the Source setup of the AVM50 also.



I have version 1.11 on my AVM50 and get 24fps through to my projector (Runco RS1100). I just enabled frame lock in the scaler setup menu. I assume frame lock function keeps the incoming fps signal from your gear intact, so that the scaler does not adjust to the normal output setting; which is 1080P/60 in my case.


Anyhoo, it worked for me!


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/12814575
> 
> 
> Sounds like a good sign to me!



I called and emailed Anthem today. All they would say is it will be announced sometime in the first quarter.


Michael


----------



## Mark Paquette

Could any of you D2/AVM50 owners help knock me off the fence? I have an AVM30 that I'm considering upgrading, but don't want to toss $$ away. Generally speaking, how future proof am I with Anthem's current HDMI set up in the D2 and AVM50. I don't have HD DVD player, still using Denon 3930. May or may not pick up some type of HD player in the future.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Paquette* /forum/post/12831408
> 
> 
> Could any of you D2/AVM50 owners help knock me off the fence? I have an AVM30 that I'm considering upgrading, but don't want to toss $$ away. Generally speaking, how future proof am I with Anthem's current HDMI set up in the D2 and AVM50. I don't have HD DVD player, still using Denon 3930. May or may not pick up some type of HD player in the future.



I feel it is as future proof as can be with only

one Caveat - Your HD player - needs to do

Internal Decoding. As long as you have that

you should be safe for many years.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/12797943
> 
> 
> There isn't any low lfe issue with the A1's and never was. It's -10db where it should be assuming you set all speakers to large. It's somewhere around -15db with all speakers to small, again where it should be.
> 
> 
> With the A2/XA2, there was an issue which I believe was subsequently fixed with firmware. It only occurs with BM engaged on the player. There's a lengthy thread authored by MauneyM on this in the HDDVD player forum. If you use it via HDMI and set all speakers to large/distances to zero/levels to zero, and use the D2/AVM50 to do all the BM, then again, there's no issue anyway.



Ok, thanks for the clarification. This is probably why I never had any issue with it hahaa.


So there actually is an issue with the Panasonics? Can this be fixed by adjusting the FLE level in the D2 for that source or is it more complicated than that?


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12831522
> 
> 
> I feel it is as future proof as can be with only
> 
> one Caveat - Your HD player - needs to do
> 
> Internal Decoding. As long as you have that
> 
> you should be safe for many years.



I would agree with this, but I would ADD that there is a hardware limitation in the D2/AVM50 on discrete multichannel audio input of 6 channels (i.e. 5.1).


Since there is a lack of *discrete* 7.1 content available, and the Anthems can do a fantastic job at creating the extra channels from matrixed/encoded information, this is IMHO not a current concern.


To the original poster's point - someday this *will* be an issue, and Anthem will probably release a new box (what some people here call a D3) that will leapfrog ahead. Based on past experience, they may have a hardware upgrade for current D2 owners (like they did for D1 and AVM30 owners). For now, there is nothing equal - so if you want this level of performance, go for it!


Just to interject my experience - last night I watched _Ratatouille_ on my Sony Ruby pj through my D2 with B&W speakers (6.1 system). My wife had seen it in a theater last fall and found it disappointing. When we watched (in SD, not HD) last night, she was thrilled at how clear and immersive both the audio and video were compared with the commercial theater! I myself was impressed with the sound mix - we both jumped during a lightning hit early in the movie! The quality of the Anthem pre pros is far ahead of the norm, but it is easy to take it for granted.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/12833563
> 
> 
> Ok, thanks for the clarification. This is probably why I never had any issue with it hahaa.
> 
> 
> So there actually is an issue with the Panasonics? Can this be fixed by adjusting the FLE level in the D2 for that source or is it more complicated than that?
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



It is a lot more complicated. We need manufacturers to fix this at the source level - or keep the bug from appearing the first place!


It is *theoretically* possible to cobble together a chain to fix this, but you would have to essentially have TWO different calibrations of your system - one for the offending device, and one for all others that operate correctly. And then remember to switch between them







.


There was some discussion in this thread last spring on this, and then in lots of threads in various subforums here. I would expect to see one in a Subwoofer area. You might try and search on "LFE problem" or "LFE bug" and see what you find (if you want to know the gory details).


----------



## Mark Paquette




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/12833608
> 
> 
> I would agree with this, but I would ADD that there is a hardware limitation in the D2/AVM50 on discrete multichannel audio input of 6 channels (i.e. 5.1).
> 
> 
> Since there is a lack of *discrete* 7.1 content available, and the Anthems can do a fantastic job at creating the extra channels from matrixed/encoded information, this is IMHO not a current concern.
> 
> 
> To the original poster's point - someday this *will* be an issue, and Anthem will probably release a new box (what some people here call a D3) that will leapfrog ahead. Based on past experience, they may have a hardware upgrade for current D2 owners (like they did for D1 and AVM30 owners). For now, there is nothing equal - so if you want this level of performance, go for it!
> 
> 
> Just to interject my experience - last night I watched _Ratatouille_ on my Sony Ruby pj through my D2 with B&W speakers (6.1 system). My wife had seen it in a theater last fall and found it disappointing. When we watched (in SD, not HD) last night, she was thrilled at how clear and immersive both the audio and video were compared with the commercial theater! I myself was impressed with the sound mix - we both jumped during a lightning hit early in the movie! The quality of the Anthem pre pros is far ahead of the norm, but it is easy to take it for granted.



Thanks. I'm currently running a 5.1 set up and have no intentions of going 7.1 anytime soon. I really like the sound/performance from my AVM30 so I think I'm going to quit thinking about it and just have it upgraded. So, what to do without my Anthem for 4+ weeks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Paquette* /forum/post/12834709
> 
> 
> Thanks. I'm currently running a 5.1 set up and have no intentions of going 7.1 anytime soon. I really like the sound/performance from my AVM30 so I think I'm going to quit thinking about it and just have it upgraded. So, what to do without my Anthem for 4+ weeks.



I do run 7.1 here and the D2 does a great job of

converting 5.1 to 7.1. Is it as good as 7.1 in and

7.1 0ut?


Marc [FimeMixer] who is a professional File Studio

Audio Mixer who also is a D2 Owner. Says he has

a very hard time being able to hear the difference.


It is NOT PERFECT - but it is something you will be

happy with if and when you upgrade to 7.1.


----------



## Maximum7

Hi guys,

I thought I'd ask this here since this seems to have the most people in the know re: Anthem.

Has support for the AVM20 been dropped?

Just wondering if Anthem backed out on their 2006 press release regarding HDMI updates, etc...

As per this press release...


> Quote:
> The Anthem Statement D2 uses internal image processing, as opposed to using an external image processor (scaler) allowing for: convenient switching from source to source; the ability to have as many sources as the preamplifier can handle; separate tweaking for each source; DVD-A playback through HDMI™; and coming soon for current Anthem™ AVM 20s, AVM 30s or Anthem Statement D1 owners, easily incorporated software upgrades (see below).
> 
> 
> In keeping with Anthem's demonstrated commitment to providing appropriate upgrades, free software upgrades will be available in the future to add even more features and enhancements to the Anthem Statement D2. Additionally, plans are underway for the D2 features to be made available as a factory upgrade (cost to be determined) for existing Anthem AVM 20s, AVM 30s and Anthem Statement D1 owners.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Maximum7,

Not sure what you are asking. The factory upgrade of an AVM-20 to the equivalent of an AVM-50 became available last year. The details are on the Anthem web site. It is not cheap.

--Bob


----------



## Maximum7

Thanks Bob. I must have missed that. I will search harder.

Thanks again.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12724159
> 
> 
> Feel Free to READ *this article*
> 
> 
> No IR is a 100% Deal Breaker in my Theater.
> 
> If you can't control and it can't be rack mounted.
> 
> THEN IT IS USELESS.



Someone is coming out with an IR solution. See:

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...ad.cgi?14086,1 


There are other solutions as well (such as the PS2 remote codes with Radio Shack USB adapter). But the one I mentioned above is the most interesting.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/12791326
> 
> 
> I looking to connect the output from an Xantech 79-144 IR connecting block to the IR input of the D2. I know I can connect an IR emitter to the connecting block and stick it on the front of the D2, but I'd rather avoid that option. With my previous receiver, I was able to connect a 3.5mm cable between the Xantech and the receiver to pass along the IR signal.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if there is a way to connect this to the rear panel IR emitter input? It looks like there is only power and signal return on the D2, which wasn't what I was expecting. (I think I need signal and ground.) Any ideas?




I tried connecting an IR out from the Pronto RFX9600 (where an emitter is normally plugged into) using a 3.5mm cable on the RFX9600 side and bare wire on the Anthem D2 side. It does not work. So I assume going directly from the Xantech 791-44 to the D2 with wire would likewise not work correctly. So as not to have an emitter stuck to the front of the D2, I got a Dinky Link receiver and plugged it into the back of the D2. I got an emitter from the RFX9600 and taped it to the Dinky Link. This contraption is at least in the back of the D2 and not visible from the front. It works very well.


The D2 manual also mentions that under some scenario (don't recall the exact wording), the aforementioned "optical" solution is the way to go.

I've had other problems trying to use straight wire on IR outputs normally intended to be used with IR emitters. For example, see:

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...thread.cgi?960 


To summarize, the optical "coupler" approach doesn't seem particularly efficient, but it works great (and hey, nothing travels faster than the speed of light, right  ?


EDIT: I had tried going from my Xantech 791-44 to the D2 with wire and it did not work. I had to use the optical approach. Not bad, but had to spend more $$ on a Dinky Link receiver.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/12838705
> 
> 
> Someone is coming out with an IR solution. See:
> 
> http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...ad.cgi?14086,1
> 
> 
> There are other solutions as well (such as the PS2 remote codes with Radio Shack USB adapter). But the one I mentioned above is the most interesting.



I really like the Nyko Blu-Wave IR remote that I bought for my PS3. http://www.nyko.com/nyko/products/?i=113 I quickly programmed it into my master remote of course. It won't do power off/on, but (dang it) I have to get up to put the disc in and take it out anyways!


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/12839132
> 
> 
> I really like the Nyko Blu-Wave IR remote that I bought for my PS3. http://www.nyko.com/nyko/products/?i=113 I quickly programmed it into my master remote of course. It won't do power off/on, but (dang it) I have to get up to put the disc in and take it out anyways!



The nice thing about the solution I mentioned is that it will provide all the functionality available in the PS3 Blue Tooth remote, but via IR. This solution basically puts an IR receiver and chip in the stock Sony PS3 Bluetooth remote so that the remote acts as an IR receiver and translates the IR to Bluetooth. But I agree, I have the PS2 remote solution, and the only disadvantage is power on and off. But it really isn't a big deal since, as you said, you have to insert and remove the DVD anyway. Unlike my Toshiba HD DVD player, where you have to wait about 45 seconds from the time you hit eject or power and the time the DVD cradle opens, the PS3 is very responsive and you can start playing a DVD in 5 seconds or so. I think a lot of folks have dismissed the PS3 given that it's a game machine and not a traditional audiophile piece of gear. But, I still think, over a year after its release, it is still one of the best Blu-Ray players out there. Its processing power is certainly faster than others, and its firmware is continually being upgraded (the December firmware upgrade provided the latest blu-ray profile release). It has enough processing power to be able to have new functionality via firmware upgrades. Enough said. Back to talking about the D2....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/12838705
> 
> 
> Someone is coming out with an IR solution. See:
> 
> http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...ad.cgi?14086,1
> 
> 
> There are other solutions as well (such as the PS2 remote codes with Radio Shack USB adapter). But the one I mentioned above is the most interesting.



I ordered the one from *Schmartz*


----------



## obie_fl

Re: The Xantech 791-44.


I have the IR amp mentioned and what I did was to simply run wire from the 791-44 signal and gnd *input* blocks. In other words my IR sensor signal is split between the D2 and the Xantech 791-44 amp. Works like a champ no need for a messy optical emitter.


----------



## whitewolf1

Quote:

Originally Posted by whitewolf1

I am seeing red banding and thousands of red dots when using HDMI to my H79 projector. I started getting this noise issue about three months ago. I am having this problem with both my HR20 Direct tv HD sat box as well as with the Oppo 970hd Dvd player. It looks fine with component but every time I change the channel I loose the video. So; its either loss of resolution and change channels using HDMI or nice video until I change the channel using component. Any thoughts?


This sounds like a marginal HDMI cable problem. Make sure your HDMI plugs are fully inserted straight into their sockets. Even the weight of the cable can loosen them enough to cause problems. Since you are using a projector, you may be running into length issues for that HDMI cable, or signal degradation through wall plates/adapters. Try temporarily setting your output resolution to 480p and see if the problem goes away when running that lower bandwidth video. If so, try upgrading/shortening your cable.


Also, see if you can reproduce the problem using the Anthem's internally generated video (the Setup menus and the test patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu under the "7" key). If so, then you know the problem is entirely on the output side of the Anthem, and not related to any issue with your source devices or their cabling. If not, then check your input cabling as well.

--Bob


Bob,


I checked internally (menu 7) and the sparkles are apparent on 1280/720p/60 but disappears on 480p. When I bypass the AVM50 and connect directly from the H79 projector to the HR20 Sat box the red sparkles are not there. Could this still be an HDMI cable issue? or is my AVM50 in need of service? I do have about a 15' HDMI cable to a wall plate then an 2' hdmi cable to DVI connection. The sparkles are not there when I use component but the video drops every time I change channel and I have to go to setup menu to bring it back.. Thanks for your help and where did you gain your knowledge? Your amazing!

DJ


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Maximum7* /forum/post/12836821
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I must have missed that. I will search harder.
> 
> Thanks again.



I was in the same boat you are in and ultimately decided to trade in my AVM20 and go straight to the D2. I haven't regretted it for a minute. For me the audio side is at least as important as the video so it was a no brainer.


In either case I am sure you will be enjoying your upgrade.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whitewolf1* /forum/post/12845681
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> Originally Posted by whitewolf1
> 
> I am seeing red banding and thousands of red dots when using HDMI to my H79 projector. I started getting this noise issue about three months ago. I am having this problem with both my HR20 Direct tv HD sat box as well as with the Oppo 970hd Dvd player. It looks fine with component but every time I change the channel I loose the video. So; its either loss of resolution and change channels using HDMI or nice video until I change the channel using component. Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> This sounds like a marginal HDMI cable problem. Make sure your HDMI plugs are fully inserted straight into their sockets. Even the weight of the cable can loosen them enough to cause problems. Since you are using a projector, you may be running into length issues for that HDMI cable, or signal degradation through wall plates/adapters. Try temporarily setting your output resolution to 480p and see if the problem goes away when running that lower bandwidth video. If so, try upgrading/shortening your cable.
> 
> 
> Also, see if you can reproduce the problem using the Anthem's internally generated video (the Setup menus and the test patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu under the "7" key). If so, then you know the problem is entirely on the output side of the Anthem, and not related to any issue with your source devices or their cabling. If not, then check your input cabling as well.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I checked internally (menu 7) and the sparkles are apparent on 1280/720p/60 but disappears on 480p. When I bypass the AVM50 and connect directly from the H79 projector to the HR20 Sat box the red sparkles are not there. Could this still be an HDMI cable issue? or is my AVM50 in need of service? I do have about a 15' HDMI cable to a wall plate then an 2' hdmi cable to DVI connection. The sparkles are not there when I use component but the video drops every time I change channel and I have to go to setup menu to bring it back.. Thanks for your help and where did you gain your knowledge? Your amazing!
> 
> DJ



The sparklies not being there at 480p (lower bandwidth requirements) most likely indicate some sort of HDMI issue. Either the cable path (adapters/connectors inline never help but your distance is not very long) or the AVM50. Unfortunately the only way to tell would be to go directly from the AVM50 to the PJ with the 15' cable.


Also, if you go into the HDMI forum, there is a thread dedicated to HDMI wall plates. Not all HDMI wall plates are created equal.










larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whitewolf1* /forum/post/12845681
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I checked internally (menu 7) and the sparkles are apparent on 1280/720p/60 but disappears on 480p. When I bypass the AVM50 and connect directly from the H79 projector to the HR20 Sat box the red sparkles are not there. Could this still be an HDMI cable issue? or is my AVM50 in need of service? I do have about a 15' HDMI cable to a wall plate then an 2' hdmi cable to DVI connection. The sparkles are not there when I use component but the video drops every time I change channel and I have to go to setup menu to bring it back.. Thanks for your help and where did you gain your knowledge? Your amazing!
> 
> DJ



Bit drop outs due to a marginal cable (or bad HDMI output in the Anthem or input in the TV) will usually be more likely to happen when you send higher bandwidth video. 720p is much higher bandwidth than 480p.


Also, the chips that implement a DVI connection are not as robust in the face of signal damage (compared to HDMI chip sets). Generally speaking, if the total length of cable when either end is a DVI device gets over 10 feet, you may start seeing trouble.


And every adapter is another potential source of signal damage.


The first thing to do is to eliminate the possibility that your AVM's video section is going out or that the TV is having trouble on its DVI input.


To do this, temporarily move the AVM-50 close to the TV and try directly connecting a shorter (say 6 foot) HDMI to DVI cable of good quality. You won't need any source devices or speaker connections for this test. Use an HDMI to DVI cable -- not an HDMI-HDMI with an HDMI/DVI adapter for example. Then set the AVM output to 720p and view the AVM's INTERNALLY generated video (the Setup menu and the test patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu under the "7" key). If that doesn't work solidly, then you need to determine whether it is the AVM output or the TV input that is at fault. The best way to do that is to try the AVM with a different TV, perhaps at your dealer.


If the short, direct connection works fine, then put the AVM-50 back and temporarily run a DIRECT HDMI to DVI cable of appropriate length to your TV. Try it first with the AVM's internally generated video, and then with your sources. If that works then you know it is your older cabling or wall plates causing the problem.


If the longer, direct cabling fails with the AVM's internal video then your TV is not handling the signal issues from that length of cable. If the internal video works but your source video still fails then look to upgrade the cabling on the SOURCE side of the AVM.


Just approach this stuff in a logical fashion and you will soon be able to isolate whether it is the cabling, the TV, the AVM or your sources that are the cause.

--Bob


----------



## whitewolf1

Thank you for your thoughts Bob and Larry! I will let you know how it works out!

DJ


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/12841295
> 
> 
> Re: The Xantech 791-44.
> 
> 
> I have the IR amp mentioned and what I did was to simply run wire from the 791-44 signal and gnd *input* blocks. In other words my IR sensor signal is split between the D2 and the Xantech 791-44 amp. Works like a champ no need for a messy optical emitter.



Can you elaborate? Did you connect an IR receiver to the 791-44's signal, ground, and 12vdc and then connected 2 wires from the 791-44's signal and gnd to the D2?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/12850904
> 
> 
> Can you elaborate? Did you connect an IR receiver to the 791-44's signal, ground, and 12vdc and then connected 2 wires from the 791-44's signal and gnd to the D2?



Exactly...which means I actually have two wires on the sig and gnd blocks and one going from the 12vdc to the IR receiver.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/12838774
> 
> 
> I tried connecting an IR out from the Pronto RFX9600 (where an emitter is normally plugged into) using a 3.5mm cable on the RFX9600 side and bare wire on the Anthem D2 side. It does not work. So I assume going directly from the Xantech 791-44 to the D2 with wire would likewise not work correctly.



I have a direct 2-wire connection (signal+ground/shield) from an output jack (meant for an emitter) on a Niles MSU480 into the back of the D2. Works like a champ. Must be something about the Pronto and/or 791-44. I assume you tried both high and normal power settings on the Xantech output. I use the low power output on the MSU480.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whitewolf1* /forum/post/12849228
> 
> 
> Thank you for your thoughts Bob and Larry! I will let you know how it works out!
> 
> DJ



The wallplate "tester" in the HDMI forum just gave an update today. He dumped the wall plates! He had things working and then he went to a new HDMI 1.3 AVR and things stopped working. Although he had 2 wall plates "inline". http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=832382 


larry


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12852411
> 
> 
> The wallplate "tester" in the HDMI forum just gave an update today. He dumped the wall plates! He had things working and then he went to a new HDMI 1.3 AVR and things stopped working. Although he had 2 wall plates "inline". http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=832382
> 
> 
> larry



Interesting. I have D2 -> wallplate -> 30 foot HDMI cable -> wallplate -> 1 foot HDMI -> Sony Ruby. No problems on this end. (knock on wood!)


----------



## jpillar

Which Blu-Ray player other than the PS3 (not a gamer) is a good match with the Anthem D2? Thanks guys.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/12854272
> 
> 
> Which Blu-Ray player other than the PS3 (not a gamer) is a good match with the Anthem D2? Thanks guys.



I think Pioneer has the least number of Complaints from Owners.


NONE are PERFECT - Pioneer seems to come the closest and has great support.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/12853276
> 
> 
> Interesting. I have D2 -> wallplate -> 30 foot HDMI cable -> wallplate -> 1 foot HDMI -> Sony Ruby. No problems on this end. (knock on wood!)



Don't change anything!










larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This might be a good point to re-cite this article from Blue Jeans -- one of the better regarded makers of cables -- as to why HDMI cabling is so tough to get right, and in particular why adapters (including wall plates) add to the problems as the bandwidth of the signal you are passing goes up:

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articl...-with-hdmi.htm 


I think what some people may be missing is that this stuff is thorny enough that it may even come down to batch differences in the same model of cable/adapter from the same manufacturer.


The people responsible for the HDMI spec are well aware of the potential for problems of course. But they know that properly engineered and tested cables and adapters WILL WORK. And that's why they pushed through the much stricter design and testing standards for cables that want to use the HDMI V1.3 label.


They are also banking on a new generation of HDMI V1.3 (and higher) chip sets which will include much improved signal "equalization" processing that enables the product to work reliably even in the face of signal degradation by the cable (and adapters). The problem is, there is no way for the customer to tell that a given HDMI V1.3 product includes such chips. It is not part of HDMI V1.3a or even the latest HDMI V1.3b labeling for products.


What is clear is that older HDMI V1.2a or lower products can not have such improvements, and that DVI products are worse at this than even HDMI V1.0 products. Which means if EITHER END of the cable is attached to such a product (or even an HDMI V1.3 product without the new, magic chips) you need to be more concerned about total cable length from product to product and the quality of the cable(s)/adapter(s) in the path. This is particularly tough on folks who have a DVI product at either end and want a cable run of more than, say, a mere 10 feet. And folks using 1080p/60 video are MUCH more likely to run into cabling issues than folks using 1080i or 720p video. (The even higher resolutions defined in the HDMI V1.3 spec for future products some years down the road will only make this worse.)


Anecdotal evidence that someone has managed to make a really long cable run work even through adapters just means that sometimes you can luck out. Another person using the very same electronics, cables, and adapters may not be so lucky simply due to manufacturing variances and the quality of the plug/socket connections.


Note that this is just between any two products since HDMI and DVI products, except for the simplest/cheapest passive switches, invariably regenerate an input signal to create a new output signal -- thus starting the process over again.


This also means that if you have long-run cabling problems, the solution may be to add an HDMI repeater of some sort (often a switch) into the cable path. But that can only switch the problem over to the other bugaboo of HDMI which is that each product added to the TOTAL signal path from source to display complicates the job of the source in verifying HDCP (copy protection) from end to end.


The fiber optic (and new coax) in-wall HDMI cabling solutions solve this by essentially putting a piece of electronics at either end of the in-wall cabling and then using fiber (or coax) in between them to eliminate signal degradation issues over the long run through the wall. The box at each end has the effect of repeating the signal. Again, this should eliminate signal degradation problems but MAY introduce HDCP problems.

--Bob


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/12854272
> 
> 
> Which Blu-Ray player other than the PS3 (not a gamer) is a good match with the Anthem D2? Thanks guys.



I heard this one was good Panasonic DMP-BD30.


I was going to get one until i heard the next gen Bluerays are coming soon so i decided to wait for a bit and see if this is true.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/12856297
> 
> 
> I heard this one was good Panasonic DMP-BD30.



All the Panasonic Players 10, 20 and 30 have an LFE bug.

Other than that bug - I think they are ok.


----------



## circumstances

plus the BD30 has no internal decoding, so you wouldn't get TrueHD or DTS-HD MA with the D2.


----------



## randman

Has anyone heard any updates regarding room eq from CES?


----------



## mikey mo

I have a simple, but important question about my new D2. I have read the Operating Manual and it seems to say that the unit will convert a HDMI input source to Component out. Am I correct?


I am not ready to trade my CRT MITS 73711 for a TV with HDMI in, thus my question.


----------



## jayray

I emailed anthem tech support and within 20 min. a response came for the firmware. What was diff was that he gave me a username and password and a link at anthem to download the 1.21d version. Is this a recent change in how we access the firmware?

John


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/12861516
> 
> 
> I emailed anthem tech support and within 20 min. a response came for the firmware. What was diff was that he gave me a username and password and a link at anthem to download the 1.21d version. Is this a recent change in how we access the firmware?
> 
> John



As of about 3 months ago they were doing this (or perhaps longer). Then again, I'm not aware of a newer version so...



Possibly because so many have had issues getting the files due to spam filters and such...


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/12854272
> 
> 
> Which Blu-Ray player other than the PS3 (not a gamer) is a good match with the Anthem D2? Thanks guys.



jpillar,

Right now the PS3 is the best BR player from a performance and update friendly standpoint.

You do not want the BD30, not feasible with the D2. No internal decoding audio. The Panasonic BD50 looks like it could be a good one but they won't be available for 4-5 months. Expect to pay $400+ for it.

HTH


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/12861516
> 
> 
> I emailed anthem tech support and within 20 min. a response came for the firmware. What was diff was that he gave me a username and password and a link at anthem to download the 1.21d version. Is this a recent change in how we access the firmware?
> 
> John



Last time I spoke with Nick he said that they just have been so busy there's been no time to update the main site and that the software was still not final. Actually I'm not sure ANY software will ever be final given all the variables and changes in the industry.


----------



## whitewolf1

Well, Looks like it has been narrowed down to an cable issue. I connected a short hdmi to dvi adapter from the avm50 to the h79 projector and the internal video presentation did not display the sparkles present on the longer cable.


I disconnected the wallplate and discovered the wallplate was really a bracket that secured the hdmi cable at the point of a shorter hdmi to dvi cable joined the longer hdmi cable. I returned the avm50 in its prior location and took a dvi-i cable with an dvi to hdmi adapter and connected it to the longer hdmi cable and the sparkles are gone. I still think the resolution is not as good as it could be as faces seem to look manicans at times.


I am going to get another hdmi to dvi cable but wonder if the hdmi to dvi-d cable will still enable me to see the direct tv guide data. Doesn't the guide data come via analog and the dvi-d is digital? the bluejean site does not have a dvi-i connector so I am wondering if I will be able to see the guide with their cables? I do see it now and have what appears to be a hdmi to dvi-i cable if thats possible.


You were right about the defective cable Larry and Bob your process of resolution woked as stated. Thanks!


DJ


----------



## jayray

For fimwar updates the first page of this thread says to use the latest setup editor that came with the firmware. The latest one I downloaded doesn't have this file in it. Can I use any of the privious ones and if so which one?

thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whitewolf1* /forum/post/12865511
> 
> 
> Well, Looks like it has been narrowed down to an cable issue. I connected a short hdmi to dvi adapter from the avm50 to the h79 projector and the internal video presentation did not display the sparkles present on the longer cable.
> 
> 
> I disconnected the wallplate and discovered the wallplate was really a bracket that secured the hdmi cable at the point of a shorter hdmi to dvi cable joined the longer hdmi cable. I returned the avm50 in its prior location and took a dvi-i cable with an dvi to hdmi adapter and connected it to the longer hdmi cable and the sparkles are gone. I still think the resolution is not as good as it could be as faces seem to look manicans at times.
> 
> 
> I am going to get another hdmi to dvi cable but wonder if the hdmi to dvi-d cable will still enable me to see the direct tv guide data. Doesn't the guide data come via analog and the dvi-d is digital? the bluejean site does not have a dvi-i connector so I am wondering if I will be able to see the guide with their cables? I do see it now and have what appears to be a hdmi to dvi-i cable if thats possible.
> 
> 
> You were right about the defective cable Larry and Bob your process of resolution woked as stated. Thanks!
> 
> 
> DJ



The analog wires in a DVI-I (or DVI-A) cable are not used in home theater setups, and in particular are not present in either an HDMI cable or any HDMI/DVI adapter. They are a holdover from the use of DVI cabling to connect computers to analog monitors. So no worries. If you are getting a clean picture then the cabling you are using is correct. DirecTV's guide output over HDMI is a digital signal -- just like the regular program video.


You will also hear about "double link" DVI-I (or DVI-D) cable, which has two sets of digital video wires used in parallel to handle much higher resolutions in computer applications. The second set of wires is not used in home theater applications, and is not present in HDMI cable.


So single link DVI-D is all you need. But double link DVI-D, or either single or double link DVI-I will also work -- you are just paying for wires inside the cable that you will not actually use. However, DVI-A cable (which ONLY has the analog wires) will NOT work.


The appearance of faces in the video you are seeing is most likely due to you not having properly set up the various video level settings yet. See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread for tips and techniques.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikey mo* /forum/post/12861031
> 
> 
> I have a simple, but important question about my new D2. I have read the Operating Manual and it seems to say that the unit will convert a HDMI input source to Component out. Am I correct?
> 
> 
> I am not ready to trade my CRT MITS 73711 for a TV with HDMI in, thus my question.



No.


Essentially all HDMI input sources of interest are "copy protected". If the input you have selected for the Anthem is copy protected HDMI then the "processed" Component output will be turned OFF in accordance with the requirements of the HDCP (copy protection) protocol. See Section 2.1 of the manual.


That means if your TV is a Component input TV, your best bet is to hook up all sources to the Anthem via analog video (Component or S-Video).


There is a trick you can use with HD-DVD and Blu-Ray players (and current HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs) to get HDMI audio into the Anthem (for receiving the high-bandwidth, multi-channel, PCM digital audio from the player for the new style audio tracks) while still viewing the video from the player over Component. There is a post in the collection of links in the first post of this thread that details the possibilities there. Essentially what you do is set up HDMI for audio only and "pass-through" the Component video input signal UNprocessed using the Zone 2 outputs of the Anthem. You would need two sets of Component cables from the Anthem to your TV so you could still receive Anthem PROCESSED Component input from other sources.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/12860747
> 
> 
> Has anyone heard any updates regarding room eq from CES?



So far, the news that has been posted here is that it was demonstrated in the Anthem hotel suite at CES, that it is included in newly shipping D2s as part of 2008 price increase for the D2, that it will be available for upgrades of existing D1s and D2s, that the final upgrade pricing has not quite been set yet ($399 was the figure repeated in a couple reports), that it is an upgrade that can be done in the home (no need to send the D2 to the factory), that the price includes the calibrated mic, that the software is locked to work for only a given D1 or D2 (by serial number), that the mic connects to a USB port on the PC, that the PC must also present a serial connection to the Anthem at the same time (direct serial or USB to serial), that the PC must be running Windows XP or better, and that no special hardware (e.g. sound card) is needed in the PC.


Delivery date is still vague -- with some hints saying dealers are being prepped for the end of January, and some saying customers are being told the end of February. I suppose it is possible new D2's could ship without it with the promise that the upgrade would be following on for home or dealer install afterwards.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/12866670
> 
> 
> For fimwar updates the first page of this thread says to use the latest setup editor that came with the firmware. The latest one I downloaded doesn't have this file in it. Can I use any of the privious ones and if so which one?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



Apparently not.


Athem has not yet shipped a setup editor that works with the latest firmware -- I suspect because the version that works with that firmware already includes the user interface updates for the Room EQ software which happens to be present in the V1.21d software but which is not quite ready for customer use.


This is one of the downsides of moving to the latest "test" firmware version that Anthem has made available.

--Bob


----------



## mikey mo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12866745
> 
> 
> No.
> 
> 
> Essentially all HDMI input sources of interest are "copy protected". If the input you have selected for the Anthem is copy protected HDMI then the "processed" Component output will be turned OFF in accordance with the requirements of the HDCP (copy protection) protocol. See Section 2.1 of the manual.
> 
> 
> That means if your TV is a Component input TV, your best bet is to hook up all sources to the Anthem via analog video (Component or S-Video).
> 
> 
> There is a trick you can use with HD-DVD and Blu-Ray players (and current HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs) to get HDMI audio into the Anthem (for receiving the high-bandwidth, multi-channel, PCM digital audio from the player for the new style audio tracks) while still viewing the video from the player over Component. There is a post in the collection of links in the first post of this thread that details the possibilities there. Essentially what you do is set up HDMI for audio only and "pass-through" the Component video input signal UNprocessed using the Zone 2 outputs of the Anthem. You would need two sets of Component cables from the Anthem to your TV so you could still receive Anthem PROCESSED Component input from other sources.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the quick response. I had read the 2.1 paragraph that you reference, but had hoped that I could connect the HDMI outputs from my

D*** and E*** receivers to the D2 since (as I understand it) those source materials are not "HDCP copy protected". Since I am getting ready to install the D2 I had hoped to save rack space by utilizing the smaller HDMI cables. Oh well, back to square one.


----------



## whitewolf1

Thanks Bob! I think I'll order a bluejean hdmi cable.


Referring to the video setup I did read and try to setup my display as you mentioned but I may need to try it again. When I display all the colors with the bars in varying degrees of brightness, I can see from the first to the last bar with only the red color a bit darker at beginning. On the display showing all the colors in boxes the saturation seems good and perceptible. The two dark bars on the bottom show the black bar barely perceptible while easily seeing the light black bar.


Am I looking at things correctly? I have not setup the dvd with DVE as yet but I assume that would only refer to the dvd input.


Thanks again Bob!


DJ


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You could be seeing black or white limit "crush" on your DVI display.


The encoding in DVI for PC applications is different than what is used for home theater applications and getting it wrong can cause clipping near black or near white.


Look for a setting in your DVI display that configures it's DVI input for "DVD or Set Top Box" as opposed to "PC or computer". You want the DVD or Set Top Box setting.


It may also be labeled as Black=0 vs. Black=16, or even Extended/Enhanced vs. Normal. You want the Black=16 or Normal setting.


Some devices confusingly label this with the terminology that is actually for analog video. That would be IRE=0 vs. IRE=7.5. You want the IRE=7.5 setting.


If you make a change here, you will need to go in and RE-adjust your video level settings between the Anthem and the display to get things correct again (particular the blacks (Brightness) and whites (Contrast) settings), after which the imaging should look better.


Even though using DVE or Avia with your DVD player is only precise for that source, it will help you get a feel for the settings you need to make in the source, in the Anthem, and in the display to get things right. So what you learn by doing that will help you make sure you've got things right for your other sources.


Also, in the Anthem's Setup / Video Ouput, try specifically setting the output to RGB instead of leaving it on Auto. Some DVI devices do not handle the automatic handshake well. DVI devices want RGB by default but some will accept YCbCr and just not do it as well as if they were fed RGB. (HDMI devices use YCbCr by default.)

--Bob


----------



## funlvr1965

Bob can the D2 be used in conjuction with an outboard video processor? I have the D2 and while Im happy with the gennums present performance I would like to use some of the new performance features in the latest gennum chip of the Radiance and also the added flexibility for anamorphic setups such as mine, in other words leave that kind of stuff to people who do that for a living. In essece what Is there a 1080 video passthrough so I can use an outboard vp such as the Radiance xd?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is no way to "pass through" unprocessed HDMI input to HDMI output in the D2 or AVM-50. Component input can be passed through unprocessed using the Zone 2 outputs.


Your best bet for HDMI is to set the Anthem Video Output to 1080p at the correct frame rate. Video is raised to 1080p in the Anthem as the first stage of processing. If you set the Anthem to output that, then it needs to do no other work and your external processor can take it from there. And of course if the input is already 1080p (and matches the current input Crop setting) then the Anthem should be doing no more processing than extracting the audio and regenerating the signal for output. Set the input level controls in the Anthem to their factory defaults.


EDITED TO ADD: I take it you want to do a "squeeze" function on the video? If not, then the Anthem's cropping and scaling adjustments should be able to do what you might want to do for a CIH setup.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Since my notebook has no serial port, I will have to use an adapter cable from usb on the notebook to rs-232 on the D2 for updates and the room EQ. Does any body out there have any suggestions for a good, reasonably priced cable available?

When I googled adapter cables there were a number of options : straight thru or null modem. What should I look for?

My notebook is running Vista, if that makes a difference.

Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/12867870
> 
> 
> Since my notebook has no serial port, I will have to use an adapter cable from usb on the notebook to rs-232 on the D2 for updates and the room EQ. Does any body out there have any suggestions for a good, reasonably priced cable available?
> 
> When I googled adapter cables there were a number of options : straight thru or null modem. What should I look for?
> 
> My notebook is running Vista, if that makes a difference.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



Straight through is what you want. Same for any serial cable itself.


People have reported numerous problems with device drivers for Vista. I don't know if this is resolved for USB/Serial adapters yet.


I don't know what the latest wisdom is on recommended adapters. Since I'll need to get one for an XP setup myself, I'll be interested to hear if anyone knows which ones Anthem is blessing at the moment.

--Bob


----------



## RIppolito

I have a PS3 in front of my AVM 50, and it has multiple upsampling rates for digital audio.


Does anyone know what the maximum sampling rate is for incoming digital audio to the AVM 50? I know it can handle 88.4KHz, because some SACD's come across at that rate, but is that the max?


By the way, is that one of the paramaters that is negotiated when the source (PS3, in this case) connects to the preamp?


One more question... can the D1/D2 handle higher sampling rates?


Thanks in advance,


Ron


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12867902
> 
> 
> , I'll be interested to hear if anyone knows which ones Anthem is blessing at the moment.
> 
> --Bob



Most recent conversation with Nick favoured the Iogear...

/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/12869925
> 
> 
> Most recent conversation with Nick favoured the Iogear...
> 
> /\\/\\



Not surprising. In the past, my best luck for this sort of stuff (driver dependent small electronics for attachment to Windows PCs) has always been IOGear and Belkin.


Even with these, it is possible any given package has been on the peg for quite a while, so the driver that comes with it may not be the latest. The same is true for any driver shipped with a version of Windows for such a 3rd party add-on product.


Normally this is not that big a deal (if it doesn't work you just go hunting for a driver update on the manufacturer's site), but in the case of firmware updating of products like the the Anthem, a failed connection at the wrong time in the process can lead to a bricked Anthem. So try to test the connection as much as possible with the Anthem before actually initiating the firmware update.


In the past you could do that by using Setup Editor for example, but at the moment there isn't a Setup Editor compatible with the new software. However, if you haven't upgraded yet, you can test your new USB/Serial connection to the Anthem using the Setup Editor for your OLD (current) software. Or if you have another serial device you can try testing a connection to it instead. And I suspect there will be a new Setup Editor shipped with the version of the Anthem software that activates the Room EQ stuff.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

Now that the ARC-EQ has been officially announced and demo'd at CES,

when is the elusive Levesque going to grace us with a report?

C'mon Alain, your NDA must be over by now or at least close enough to post a tidbit or 12


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/12870973
> 
> 
> Now that the ARC-EQ has been officially announced and demo'd at CES,
> 
> when is the elusive Levesque going to grace us with a report?
> 
> C'mon Alain, your NDA must be over by now or at least close enough to post a tidbit or 12



Has it been offcially announced, and I don't recall anyone saying they did a A/B comparision at CES?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It has been officially announced. They were not A/Bing it in the suite at CES.

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/12869925
> 
> 
> Most recent conversation with Nick favoured the Iogear...
> 
> /\\/\\



I have a drawer full of USB-Serial Cables due to incompatibility issues with equipment and RS-232 control. My home theater is down now, but when it gets back up, I'll try several and report. I do know that the Keyspan works (originally suggested by Nick). The Keyspan is problematic for many other kinds of A/V gear, so perhaps the Iogear which is more compatible elsewhere would be a good choice (especially if Nick gives it the OK.)


Personally, I've had more success with a PC Card serial adapter. More costly, but seems to work with everything. And the buy the eBay old notebook with a serial port has merit too.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12870328
> 
> 
> ...Normally this is not that big a deal (if it doesn't work you just go hunting for a driver update on the manufacturer's site), but in the case of firmware updating of products like the the Anthem, a failed connection at the wrong time in the process can lead to a bricked Anthem. So try to test the connection as much as possible with the Anthem before actually initiating the firmware update.
> 
> 
> --Bob



I would just look up the Anthem RS-232 protocol and send a few simple commands to the unit. Power on, Power off, on screen messages, etc. If they work correctly, you should be golden. The protocol is on Anthem's website.


I've never had success using Hyperterminal, but I use Docklight software which works with all the A/V gear I have tested for control purposes.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *whitewolf1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I still think the resolution is not as good as it could be as faces seem to look manicans at times.



That has nothing to do with the cable path. It's basically impossible to randomly drop bits in a digital video stream (especially a TMDS encoded stream) and subtly affect the resultant video image. Sparklies (or nothing) is what you see when bits get changed in the cable path. Your issue is probably source/target/calibration related.


larry


----------



## dweltman

I have a remote question.


I set up DVD 1 with the video configuration for 1080p60 and DVD2 for 1080p24 (which I renamed BluRay). Both are being fed by my PS3. The idea was to be able to switch back and forth easily when I put a SD DVD or a BluRay in the PS3. I disabled DVD3 and 4.


However, I am trying to set up my Harmony to have commands to "watch a DVD" and "watch a BluRay" and am having problems setting up a macro to toggle between DVD 1 and DVD2 that will work. I spent quite a while on the telephone with Harmony customer service and they couldn't figure out a way to do it. The problem came down to the fact that the D2 "remembers" whether I was on DVD1 or DVD2 and always goes back to that when I turn it off or to AUX and then back to a DVD setting. So there is no way for the Harmony to "know" whether it has to toggle forward or not on DVD when I switch to a new command.


So my question boils down to whether there is a way to set the D2 so that when you go from DVD to off or AUX or any other input and back to DVD, it will always return to DVD1? If it did that, it would be possible to set up a macro that would work.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/12873781
> 
> 
> I have a remote question.
> 
> 
> I set up DVD 1 with the video configuration for 1080p60 and DVD2 for 1080p24 (which I renamed BluRay). Both are being fed by my PS3. The idea was to be able to switch back and forth easily when I put a SD DVD or a BluRay in the PS3. I disabled DVD3 and 4.
> 
> 
> However, I am trying to set up my Harmony to have commands to "watch a DVD" and "watch a BluRay" and am having problems setting up a macro to toggle between DVD 1 and DVD2 that will work. I spent quite a while on the telephone with Harmony customer service and they couldn't figure out a way to do it. The problem came down to the fact that the D2 "remembers" whether I was on DVD1 or DVD2 and always goes back to that when I turn it off or to AUX and then back to a DVD setting. So there is no way for the Harmony to "know" whether it has to toggle forward or not on DVD when I switch to a new command.
> 
> 
> So my question boils down to whether there is a way to set the D2 so that when you go from DVD to off or AUX or any other input and back to DVD, it will always return to DVD1? If it did that, it would be possible to set up a macro that would work.



Did you try the following macros (these are from Appendix A of the 1.1x version of the D2 manual):


DVD1: THX, 8, 5

DVD2: THX, 8, 6


Back when I used to use the original DVD command to go to DVD1, I did not get reliable results. I had to use the DVD1 macro above to reliably go to DVD1.


----------



## dweltman

Thanks, that seems to be what I need!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/12873723
> 
> 
> I would just look up the Anthem RS-232 protocol and send a few simple commands to the unit. Power on, Power off, on screen messages, etc. If they work correctly, you should be golden. The protocol is on Anthem's website.
> 
> 
> I've never had success using Hyperterminal, but I use Docklight software which works with all the A/V gear I have tested for control purposes.



Testing that way (RS-232 command set) is certainly a start, but I suspect the problems in the past have been with burst mode reading and writing of streams of data -- and the flow control that keeps one side from getting ahead of the other side when doing that. And I'm not sure sending the short strings that make up the RS-232 commands would test that.


Keep in mind that the firmware update has to both read and write streams, since it verifies after writing. The writing side is crucial since bad firmware sent over will screw things up, but the reading side is also a problem since if one programmable piece doesn't verify I think they stop and don't send the rest of the stuff, which can lead to mismatched programming between the various separately programmable pieces. They may have improved this in the current firmware loader, but the reports that people have been running into problems with V1.21d installs using the same PC hardware that worked fine for previous installs is not encouraging.


----------------------------------------------------


NOTE TO NEWBIES: For most people the firmware upgrade process goes just fine, so don't get too panicked by what you are reading here. The key factor is to NOT INTERRUPT THE PROCESS once started, even if it appears to be taking longer than the normal 15 minutes or so. Be patient. And make sure your computer is set so it will not go to SLEEP during the process.


Also it is very important to make sure you have NO POWERED HDMI CONNECTIONS while attempting to install the firmware. Many source and display devices power their HDMI sockets even when they appear to be OFF. Since HDMI plugs and sockets are fragile, rather than unplugging the HDMI cables, I recommend disconnecting ALL of your sources and your display from wall power before starting the Anthem firmware install.


If the upgrade does fail, then most of the time you will be able to simply re-apply the upgrade again -- perhaps with the same computer, or perhaps with a different computer or serial cabling setup.


There are pretty rare cases where a failed upgrade install can leave the Anthem in a state where it won't accept a new attempt. In that case there are two solutions. Anthem has a PC program that puts all of the programmable elements of the unit into an erased state, and getting this program from Anthem and applying it will often solve things -- at least to the point where you can try a new install again. If that doesn't work, there is a process which involves opening up the case and moving a jumper connector which will force a hardware erase of the necessary stuff. This is how they initialize the units in the factory. In the past, Anthem has been willing to give out the instructions on this to a sufficiently knowledgeable owner or dealer, but of course the alternative is that the unit has to go back to the factory to do this.


One crucial step is to WRITE DOWN all of your settings that you can't simply remember, so that if worst comes to worst you can manually reenter them after Anthem gets your unit upgraded. Write down both your Setup menu settings (for all inputs!) as well as your Video Source Adjust menu settings (for all inputs!). For previous upgrades, see the "Belt and Suspenders Approach to Firmware Installs" post in the collection of posts linked in the first post of this thread. Please note that the newest firmware may come with instructions that supersede that older post of mine. Read and follow the instructions Anthem sends with the upgrade!

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

So I just had my Pio 150FD ISFed, and he adjusted the contrast, color and gray scale using the controls on the display. My temp curve is now nice and flat. He really didn't mess with the video controls of the Anthem at all. Is there other stuff I should be looking to do with the Anthem processing? Any Bob P wisdom posts I should be reviewing?


When using my PS3 to output 1080p24 and using the Anthem to also output that signal at 1080p24 to my panel, I have tried using the HGV BluRay test disc and it fails the jaggies tests miserably, but passes if I switch to 1080p60. Why would that be? I thought I would be better passing 24 to the panel?


----------



## jayray

Several times after calibrating my AVM 50 for sound with my Radio shack analog SPM, I find the setting off by db or so. Is this more likely the meter or do the sound levels drift a bit?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/12875972
> 
> 
> So I just had my Pio 150FD ISFed, and he adjusted the contrast, color and gray scale using the controls on the display. My temp curve is now nice and flat. He really didn't mess with the video controls of the Anthem at all. Is there other stuff I should be looking to do with the Anthem processing? Any Bob P wisdom posts I should be reviewing?
> 
> 
> When using my PS3 to output 1080p24 and using the Anthem to also output that signal at 1080p24 to my panel, I have tried using the HGV BluRay test disc and it fails the jaggies tests miserably, but passes if I switch to 1080p60. Why would that be? I thought I would be better passing 24 to the panel?



You should only be passing 1080p/24 to the Anthem (and to the display) if the source content is "film based" -- i.e., if it was recorded at 24 fps. If the jaggies tests you are running are 60 fps content (video based) then you would expect problems. De-interlacing is more difficult for video based content, so that is usually how such tests are set up. Also, your Anthem software level should be at least V1.12 to use 24 fps without problems.


Now that your display has been calibrated, the internally generated test patterns in the Anthem's Video Source Adjust menu should all look perfect. If that's not the case then there is something screwed up in your Video Output settings in the Anthem. Presuming they DO look perfect, then the next step is to see if you need to make any adjustments in the Anthem's video input controls to correct for variations from each source device (Video Source Adjust / Picture for each input). Any adjustments you need to make there should be minor. Perhaps more important is to set each source device to do the least possible processing of the video before it sends it to the Anthem.


See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread for more info.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/12875995
> 
> 
> Several times after calibrating my AVM 50 for sound with my Radio shack analog SPM, I find the setting off by db or so. Is this more likely the meter or do the sound levels drift a bit?
> 
> John



How long is it taking for you to find a drift like this?


The most common issue in situations like this is that the measurement is not made the same way both times. For example, curtains opened or closed, SPL meter not pointed in the same direction. Standing close to the meter while it is measuring vs. standing further away. Meter not set up in the same location in the listening room.


That last one is particularly important when measuring bass as most rooms have peaks and dips in their bass response at different listening (measuring) locations. Bass response measurements will even be sensitive to whether room, or even closet, doors are opened or closed.


Also, make sure your meter has fresh batteries in it, and if you are taking measurement at a volume where either of two different meter sensitivities could be used, use the same one for each measurement. The meter will vary a bit in measurement at different sensitivity settings. Try to use a sensitivity setting that makes the measurement come out in the mid-point of the range for that particular sensitivity. And make sure you are using "C" weighting and "SLOW" response.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

thanks for the response. I normally do 90% of what you suggested. the batteries may be the culprit. I hide behind a chair with the meter at head level in my sweet spot and hold the anthem remote in my other hand. Would look weird to anyone who doesn't know what I am doing







Will try the batteries.

Thanks,

John


----------



## ankita




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ranger620* /forum/post/12827265
> 
> 
> I have version 1.11 on my AVM50 and get 24fps through to my projector (Runco RS1100). I just enabled frame lock in the scaler setup menu. I assume frame lock function keeps the incoming fps signal from your gear intact, so that the scaler does not adjust to the normal output setting; which is 1080P/60 in my case.
> 
> 
> Anyhoo, it worked for me!



help me with the setup. I have PS3 connected to avm50 thru HDMI going to RS1 and toshiba XA2 to avm50 thru HDMI going to RS1. I have 1.11 version. I want to watch 1080p24 from my ps3 and 1080p60 from XA2 ( i dont have the new version for XA2 which does 1080p24 ). Is there a way to set up differently on anthem I dont quite understand the layer concept for video setup on avm 50.

thanks

ankita


----------



## sfield

There are a couple different ways to do this.


In my system, I do it as so:


1. Make sure you've enabled the 24p mode in the PS3 setup screen.

2. When the Anthem is set to the PS3 input, hold down the "7" key, until the video menu comes up. Then navigate to the table where the "Frame lock" option is set. Set it to auto.


That's it. When you switch to the PS3 input and playback a blu-ray, the anthem will lock and resync the display to the 23.976hz output of the PS3.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/12877628
> 
> 
> help me with the setup. I have PS3 connected to avm50 thru HDMI going to RS1 and toshiba XA2 to avm50 thru HDMI going to RS1. I have 1.11 version. I want to watch 1080p24 from my ps3 and 1080p60 from XA2 ( i dont have the new version for XA2 which does 1080p24 ). Is there a way to set up differently on anthem I dont quite understand the layer concept for video setup on avm 50.
> 
> thanks
> 
> ankita


----------



## sfield

For those interested, here's a relatively new PC motherboard which supports HDMI *multi-channel* audio and video. This can drive the anthem at 5.1 channel 96khz 24bit.

http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?l1...12&modelmenu=1 


I've setup a new HTPC, and have used this successfully for various content types (mpeg-2, avc, vc-1, as well as a variety of audio codecs).


It looks like there is a bug at the moment in the HDCP negotiation with "repeaters" (like the Anthem), so it won't work for "protected" content playback at the moment. Note the anthem "repeater" function set to yes/no doesn't make any difference here.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfield* /forum/post/12881202
> 
> 
> For those interested, here's a relatively new PC motherboard which supports HDMI *multi-channel* audio and video. This can drive the anthem at 5.1 channel 96khz 24bit.
> 
> http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?l1...12&modelmenu=1
> 
> 
> I've setup a new HTPC, and have used this successfully for various content types (mpeg-2, avc, vc-1, as well as a variety of audio codecs).
> 
> 
> It looks like there is a bug at the moment in the HDCP negotiation with "repeaters" (like the Anthem), so it won't work for "protected" content playback at the moment. Note the anthem "repeater" function set to yes/no doesn't make any difference here.



Which version of the Anthem software are you running? The HDMI Repeater = NO function was broken in one of the "test" releases after V1.11 (it worked just as if you had set it to YES), and fixed in a later release that came out a short time afterwards. But I don't recall which release had it broken. A search in this thread might dig up that answer.


To test if you have this problem, try playing copy protected audio from an HDMI source while your TV is turned off. This should only work if your have HDMI Repeater = NO set for that input and it is functioning correctly.

--Bob


----------



## Ian_Currie

Does anyone know if it's possible to turn off processing in the D2 and use it for HDMI switching only?


I have the Scaling = OFF set in the menu that deals with, well, scaling, but that doesn't disengage processing.


I have discovered that the D2 is introducing artifacts in certain situations. I thought these were in the source until I saw the same scenes on someone else's system and went home and tried going direct from bluray player into my projector (where the artifacts were no longer present). I am not using anything but the default settings in the D2.


I have more or less concluded that I can't turn off processing, but I may have missed something.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/12882895
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if it's possible to turn off processing in the D2 and use it for HDMI switching only?
> 
> 
> I have the Scaling = OFF set in the menu that deals with, well, scaling, but that doesn't disengage processing.
> 
> 
> I have discovered that the D2 is introducing artifacts in certain situations. I thought these were in the source until I saw the same scenes on someone else's system and went home and tried going direct from bluray player into my projector (where the artifacts were no longer present). I am not using anything but the default settings in the D2.
> 
> 
> I have more or less concluded that I can't turn off processing, but I may have missed something.



There is no way to turn off processing for HDMI inputs.


You can pass through Component signals unprocessed using the Zone 2 outputs. Your Blu-Ray player may have Component outputs that are live at the same time as its HDMI output. That means you can do a combo connection that lets you view unprocessed component video while still using HDMI to get the audio into the Anthem. This is detailed in one of the posts in the links collected in the first post of this thread.


What are the artifacts you are seeing?

--Bob


----------



## Ian_Currie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12884092
> 
> 
> 
> What are the artifacts you are seeing?
> 
> --Bob



Patterns in the background (i.e. wallpaper) that are somewhat dim and out of focus start changing shape back and forth, pixels dropped here and there, distracting me.


Thanks for the response.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Got it. The pixel drops would point to an HDMI cabling issue (either on the input or output side of the Anthem). The fact that the SAME cable might work without problems if the source is directly connected to the display could be misleading -- a marginal cable will be sensitive to the connection between its plugs and a specific socket for example.


As to the background patterns, do you know what "macroblocking" is? Does what you are seeing look like macroblocking?

--Bob


----------



## djhamilton

I have an AVM50 with a PS3, HD-A2, 8300HD DVR and an Oppo 981HD connected to it all with HDMI going to a Sony VW50. I have used this system with this config for a long time, but in the last week or so, I suddenly get a message when I first fire up the system that I need a HDCP display. I haven't ever seen this before.


My cable going from the AVM50 to the Sony is 40', but I have an Ultralink repeater between the projector and the AVM50 and then a 2' cable going to the projector. Never had this issue before. Just magically started happening.


Any ideas what might be causing this? thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djhamilton* /forum/post/12886231
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50 with a PS3, HD-A2, 8300HD DVR and an Oppo 981HD connected to it all with HDMI going to a Sony VW50. I have used this system with this config for a long time, but in the last week or so, I suddenly get a message when I first fire up the system that I need a HDCP display. I haven't ever seen this before.
> 
> 
> My cable going from the AVM50 to the Sony is 40', but I have an Ultralink repeater between the projector and the AVM50 and then a 2' cable going to the projector. Never had this issue before. Just magically started happening.
> 
> 
> Any ideas what might be causing this? thanks,



Make sure your HDMI cables (both input and output) are fully inserted straight into their sockets. The plug is only a friction fit and it only takes a little looseness to have problems. The weight of the cable may be pulling the cable or pressing it to one side.


Try power-cycling the Anthem (turn it off with the remote and then also turn it off with the back panel switch). In the past, this has been a cure for some unexplained HDMI issues.


Double check the power source for your Ultralink repeater.


Also, the timing on startup for your TV may have changed a bit as it ages. Try putting in a bit more delay between when you power on the TV and when you power on the rest of the system.

--Bob


----------



## Ian_Currie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12884805
> 
> 
> Got it. The pixel drops would point to an HDMI cabling issue (either on the input or output side of the Anthem). The fact that the SAME cable might work without problems if the source is directly connected to the display could be misleading -- a marginal cable will be sensitive to the connection between its plugs and a specific socket for example.
> 
> 
> As to the background patterns, do you know what "macroblocking" is? Does what you are seeing look like macroblocking?
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


I do know what general macroblocking is and it *could* be that. I did try changing the cable with no luck, but I'll try that again to be sure.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ian,

If it looks like macroblocking, then it may simply be that you have your Blacks levels set a bit too high when the Anthem is in the signal path (i.e., you are mistakenly viewing some of the Blacker Than Black imaging data -- which is inherently lower quality, particularly in the backgrounds).


Another possibility in uniform color backgrounds (particular in the low gray scales) is dithering noise. If you have this, it would also be visible in the low IRE gray scale test screens from a calibration DVD. And if you see that then you can be certain things are not quite right in your Blacks/Whites level settings. The levels in your TV may not be properly matched to the Anthem's output yet -- and then, perhaps, you are compensating using the Anthem's input level settings for example, or using output settings in a source device.


-----------------------------------------------


Do you see the pixel drops when you view the Anthem's internally generated video (test patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu)? If so, then you know the problem is on the output side of the Anthem. If not, then the problem may be on the input side of the Anthem. I don't recall if you said how long your cable was to the display, but if the problem is on the output side, try temporarily moving the Anthem close to the display (you won't need any sources or speaker hookups for this), and see if using a shorter cable (say around 6 feet) eliminates the problem when viewing the Anthem's test patterns. If that eliminates the pixel drops then you can be certain you are having an output side cabling problem in your normal hookup.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

For Bob or others,


To test out the Serial connection would doing a successful settings save to PC file and restore be a good enough or better test of the connection?


I had done this with my old AVM20 (not the restore, but the setting save prior to a previous firmware upgrade) and I am not even sure its an option on the D2, but mightn't that be a better test of the burst two way data flow if it is rather than just sending a couple commands?


Seems like a outbound save should be about as safe as something can be and then if that works you can try an inbound. If that failed you could try the inbound with another adapter... At least that seems probably given my limited knowledge in this area hahaa.


Cheers and thanks all for helping make this by far the most supportive thread going.


Richard


----------



## "MIKEY"

We calibrated a 4 year old Hitachi, 57" RPT capable of 720P. The difference is apparent. It is hard to distinguish between PS3 Bluray's output HD compared to D2's SD. We're using an Oppo for SD. Again, the SD picture running through the D2 at 480i is almost as good as HD through the PS3.

Is it calibration or the combination of good electronics?


----------



## djhamilton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12886588
> 
> 
> Make sure your HDMI cables (both input and output) are fully inserted straight into their sockets. The plug is only a friction fit and it only takes a little looseness to have problems. The weight of the cable may be pulling the cable or pressing it to one side.
> 
> 
> Try power-cycling the Anthem (turn it off with the remote and then also turn it off with the back panel switch). In the past, this has been a cure for some unexplained HDMI issues.
> 
> 
> Double check the power source for your Ultralink repeater.
> 
> 
> Also, the timing on startup for your TV may have changed a bit as it ages. Try putting in a bit more delay between when you power on the TV and when you power on the rest of the system.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks I will check it out. I have actually reconnected all the HDMI cable connections several times, but have not completely shutdown the AVM50 nor have I changed the delay for the projector to come on.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/12887796
> 
> 
> For Bob or others,
> 
> 
> To test out the Serial connection would doing a successful settings save to PC file and restore be a good enough or better test of the connection?
> 
> 
> I had done this with my old AVM20 (not the restore, but the setting save prior to a previous firmware upgrade) and I am not even sure its an option on the D2, but mightn't that be a better test of the burst two way data flow if it is rather than just sending a couple commands?
> 
> 
> Seems like a outbound save should be about as safe as something can be and then if that works you can try an inbound. If that failed you could try the inbound with another adapter... At least that seems probably given my limited knowledge in this area hahaa.
> 
> 
> Cheers and thanks all for helping make this by far the most supportive thread going.
> 
> 
> Richard



Richard, I don't know if it is sufficient, but in the past that's exactly the sort of thing I've done to test the connection before initiating a firmware install.


However the trick for folks who are already on the V1.21 series firmware is that Anthem has not released a Setup Editor version that is compatible with that firmware version.


It may turn out that a new Setup Editor which IS compatible with that V1.21 firmware (and presumably older firmware as well) will be included in the install kit for the new version we are expecting any day now for the Room EQ upgrade. And then you could use it to test your connection as you suggest before doing the new firmware install.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/12888156
> 
> 
> We calibrated a 4 year old Hitachi, 57" RPT capable of 720P. The difference is apparent. It is hard to distinguish between PS3 Bluray's output HD compared to D2's SD. We're using an Oppo for SD. Again, the SD picture running through the D2 at 480i is almost as good as HD through the PS3.
> 
> Is it calibration or the combination of good electronics?



Mikey, proper calibration is a big deal. Modern digital video systems are very finicky about getting the settings right, or to put it another way, the difference between just right and nearly right in the settings may be a lot greater than what you are used to with older TVs.


In addition, for SD content it is all about not doing damage to the content. Once damage is done it is pretty much impossible to undo it, and the sorts of processing that HAS TO BE done to SD content to get it to display on an HD TV is fraught with potential problems. The vast majority of home TV viewers have never seen undamaged SD. They are used to imaging that is worse than it needs to be, but is still better than even more broken imagery from, say analog TV broadcasts or whatever.


So proper calibration PLUS good SD processing for an HD TV can lead to a pretty durned spectacular SD viewing experience.


However, SD is not HD. You WILL be able to see improvement when watching HD content, as from your Blu-Ray discs. Even on a 720p display.


It will probably just take a while for your eye to become accustomed to how good your new SD viewing is, so that you can start seeing the additional improvements in the HD viewing.


Also keep in mind that some movies are deliberately "softened" by the film makers as part of an effort to meet the audience's expectations for a film-like movie experience, or for other artistic reasons. Again, for MOST people, viewing an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray movie is an eye opener because their *SD* viewing setup is so out of whack. But there really are significant gains in perfect HD compared to perfect SD -- gains that should become noticeable even on a 720p TV as your eye becomes more used to seeing perfection.


One thing that should stand out however is the color palette. The HD color gamut is broader than the SD gamut. That means you should see more natural and transparent coloration in your HD movies. Most people look first for fine detail to distinguish HD from SD, but really it is the color and gray scale range and smoothness that makes a lot of the difference.

--Bob


----------



## kltazman

I am not sure if these topics have been covered. If so I apologize. I have an Anthem D2. It is my third product from Anthem. Anyway, the first question I have is regarding the menu/set-up on an hd display. The Menu/set-up screen for the D2 used to work in HD Mode on my TV and for some reason I now have to go to the panel on the Anthem D2 to make any adjustments because all I get is a blue screen on the TV when I go to set-up. The on screen display still works such as volume etc, I just can't get the menu functions on my Panasonic display. By the way, my Panasonic is connected to the anthem via dvi which at the end has a hdmi adapter which goes to the anthem. Everything else works fine


The second question is regarding the display on the TV when I connect a macbook through the anthem D2 which is connected to the Panasonic HDTV. The macbook is connected through apples mini dvi that comes with an adapter for hdmi. The screen looks great except it has black borders which I would love to get rid of. The macbook only gives me two options, one is normal with the black borders and the other is for an overlay which stretches to the point where I don't see the menu. I would like it to fit.


Any ideas would greatly be appreciated.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kltazman* /forum/post/12888987
> 
> 
> I am not sure if these topics have been covered. If so I apologize. I have an Anthem D2. It is my third product from Anthem. Anyway, the first question I have is regarding the menu/set-up on an hd display. The Menu/set-up screen for the D2 used to work in HD Mode on my TV and for some reason I now have to go to the panel on the Anthem D2 to make any adjustments because all I get is a blue screen on the TV when I go to set-up. The on screen display still works such as volume etc, I just can't get the menu functions on my Panasonic display. By the way, my Panasonic is connected to the anthem via dvi which at the end has a hdmi adapter which goes to the anthem. Everything else works fine
> 
> 
> The second question is regarding the display on the TV when I connect a macbook through the anthem D2 which is connected to the Panasonic HDTV. The macbook is connected through apples mini dvi that comes with an adapter for hdmi. The screen looks great except it has black borders which I would love to get rid of. The macbook only gives me two options, one is normal with the black borders and the other is for an overlay which stretches to the point where I don't see the menu. I would like it to fit.
> 
> 
> Any ideas would greatly be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks



If you are talking about the Setup menus in the Anthem, they are generated by an S-video circuit and apparently there have been some failures of those.


There are a few other possibilities, but since it USED TO work on your display those are pretty much out of consideration.


Contact Anthem Tech Support. Unfortunately, if this is what is going wrong, you may need to send the unit to the factory for repair.


EDITED TO ADD: Check the Setup / Displays & Timeout menu to see that it still matches the factory defaults as shown in your Anthem User's Manual.


------------------------------------------


If your computer is sending video with black borders, and you would rather not see them on screen, you can setup a "Custom" Crop Input setting in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) for that Anthem input. Scale Out=Anamorphic will then stretch the cropped input as necessary to fill your screen.


Depending upon the specifics of the crop and the stretching that results, you may see more artifacts than you like -- blurred text and such. Displaying computer user interfaces on a home theater display can be disappointing sometimes.


If the borders are the same number of pixels around all 4 sides, you can set a Crop Input/ Edges ON number to crop out a strip of so many pixels around all 4 sides. Again, Scale Out = Anamorphic will then stretch the resulting image as necessary. This is just another, perhaps simpler, way to specify an additional edge Crop for this source on top of the standard 16:9 or 4:3 crop.

--Bob


----------



## kltazman

Hi Bob


Thanks for your help. The number 7 key really worked. As for the menu display on my TV, I think I might have to send the D2 back to get fixed. I can't get the set-up menu to show on the tv both via hdmi and s video.


Again, much thanks.


Kenny


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/12888156
> 
> 
> We calibrated a 4 year old Hitachi, 57" RPT capable of 720P. The difference is apparent. It is hard to distinguish between PS3 Bluray's output HD compared to D2's SD. We're using an Oppo for SD. Again, the SD picture running through the D2 at 480i is almost as good as HD through the PS3.
> 
> Is it calibration or the combination of good electronics?



Most likely your TV has 7" CRTs which will only resolve at most 525-540 lines. (I don't recall Hitachi making 8" or 9" CRT RPTVs like some others did). This probably the main reason for the not-so-big difference. Also, proper CRT convergence is necessary too.


larry


----------



## mlbrand

Does the D2 decode the AAC audio file format? I can't seem to find this info anywhere else.


----------



## Milt99

^^^^^ Nothing in the manual so I would say no.


----------



## PooperScooper

It doesn't decode AAC. It only decodes bitstreams that come from a SD-DVD (DD and DTS) video disc and PCM. I don't recall anything else.


larry


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/12899829
> 
> 
> Does the D2 decode the AAC audio file format? I can't seem to find this info anywhere else.




mlbrand,


AAC is Apple's format. Do you mean can you link an Airport Express to the D2 via an optical digital cable and stream music? If so, then the answer is yes.


David


----------



## cosmos5861

My AVM 50 is hook up to directv H20 via HDMI. I have a panasonic TH50pf9uk. Lately when I change to a HD channel like 720 or 1080i, AVM 50 will not change?? it remains at 480? If I go up and down channel it clears up??


Any idea?


----------



## drhankz

Hi Anthem Owners


I have seen many posts on here about Apple TV.


I know 1080i over HDMI does not work. But I understand

720p is suppose to work.


Do I need some newer D2 software to even get 720p

to work? I'm running old fashion 1.11.


Both 1080i and 720p over Component works just fine.

However, I'm running out of Component Ports.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12908834
> 
> 
> Hi Anthem Owners
> 
> 
> I have seen many posts on here about Apple TV.
> 
> 
> I know 1080i over HDMI does not work. But I understand
> 
> 720p is suppose to work.
> 
> 
> Do I need some newer D2 software to even get 720p
> 
> to work? I'm running old fashion 1.11.
> 
> 
> Both 1080i and 720p over Component works just fine.
> 
> However, I'm running out of Component Ports.



I could be wrong but I didn't think that anything over HDMI worked - I hope that I'm wrong.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/12910021
> 
> 
> I could be wrong but I didn't think that anything over HDMI worked - I hope that I'm wrong.



That is how my Apple TV is working.


Nothing over HDMI and ONLY Component.


I thought I remember reading that 720p over HDMI worked.


But then maybe those souls are running newer D2 FW.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12910052
> 
> 
> That is how my Apple TV is working.
> 
> 
> Nothing over HDMI and ONLY Component.
> 
> 
> I thought I remember reading that 720p over HDMI worked.
> 
> 
> But then maybe those souls are running newer D2 FW.



I'm pretty sure that 720p doesn't work on mine and I'm running the latest firmware. Again, I haven't explicitly checked this lately so I will check again tonight.


----------



## gblack

Apple TV doesn't work with HDMI and D2 period. which is unfortunate. Hopefully the upcoming software upgrade on the ATV corrects the problem (an HDCP handshake problem)


----------



## Ian_Currie

Strange, I have two ATV's, but the only one hooked up via HDMI (which does work) is not the one in the system with the Anthem (I had run out of HDMI inputs on the Anthem and had to use component for the ATV).


Why would it just not work on the D2?


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12916430
> 
> 
> Apple TV doesn't work with HDMI and D2 period. which is unfortunate. Hopefully the upcoming software upgrade on the ATV corrects the problem (an HDCP handshake problem)



Agreed...component and optical are the only way to go right now thru the D2...tried it again recently just to make sure...hopefully the new upgrade to the AppleTV fixes it...but component is fine with me if it doesn't.


Brian


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/12916498
> 
> 
> Strange, I have two ATV's, but the only one hooked up via HDMI (which does work) is not the one in the system with the Anthem (I had run out of HDMI inputs on the Anthem and had to use component for the ATV).
> 
> 
> Why would it just not work on the D2?



I assume there is some ATV HDMI issue between the Anthem

and the ATV. I talked with Apple Tech Support yesterday and

they did say 720p over HDMI is suppose to work but they

acknowledged 1080i does not. They would not say that 1080i

would be fixed in future software update.


----------



## zzzzdoc

Quick question, guys.


Is the D2 HDMI 1.0, 1.1, or 1.2?


----------



## benleeys

Hi guys,


I haven't seen anybody mentioned that the latest D2 software available for download is now ver 1.29j. The manual has been updated to ver 1.3x. It says the software now allows configuration for 4 video output and mentions that the ARC-1 Anthem Room Correction Kit is included in the packing.










Ben


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12917817
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> I haven't seen anybody mentioned that the latest D2 software available for download is now ver 1.29j. The manual has been updated to ver 1.3x. It includes instructions about the ARC-1 Anthem Room Correction Kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



Where is 1.29j available? I just checked the website and its still 1.11.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12874475
> 
> 
> Testing that way (RS-232 command set) is certainly a start, but I suspect the problems in the past have been with burst mode reading and writing of streams of data -- and the flow control that keeps one side from getting ahead of the other side when doing that. And I'm not sure sending the short strings that make up the RS-232 commands would test that.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the firmware update has to both read and write streams, since it verifies after writing. The writing side is crucial since bad firmware sent over will screw things up, but the reading side is also a problem since if one programmable piece doesn't verify I think they stop and don't send the rest of the stuff, which can lead to mismatched programming between the various separately programmable pieces. They may have improved this in the current firmware loader, but the reports that people have been running into problems with V1.21d installs using the same PC hardware that worked fine for previous installs is not encouraging.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Good points, Bob. My method would just determine proper connectivity, COM port assignment, etc. Certainly a starting point, but no guarantee of the successful transfer of much, much larger amounts of data at higher data rates.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/12918008
> 
> 
> Where is 1.29j available? I just checked the website and its still 1.11.



You have to go through tech support and get the URL, username and password to download the beta software.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/12918008
> 
> 
> Where is 1.29j available? I just checked the website and its still 1.11.


 http://tech.anthemav.com .


By the way, instructions on setting up the ARC-1 is also available there.


Ben


----------



## Tim Winders

From the Read Me First document:


CHANGE LIST


v1.29j:


1. Number of video-out configurations is increased to four.


2. More HDMI, HDCP, and Macrovision related changes to make largest possible number of sources compatible.


3. (Statement D2 only) Added room correction - enabling this feature requires ARC-1 microphone kit.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/12917525
> 
> 
> Quick question, guys.
> 
> 
> Is the D2 HDMI 1.0, 1.1, or 1.2?



The D2 is HDMI V1.1 in and out. The output is further limited to stereo audio (typical for TV connections).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12918224
> 
> 
> From the Read Me First document:
> 
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v1.29j:
> 
> 
> 1. Number of video-out configurations is increased to four.
> 
> 
> 2. More HDMI, HDCP, and Macrovision related changes to make largest possible number of sources compatible.
> 
> 
> 3. (Statement D2 only) Added room correction - enabling this feature requires ARC-1 microphone kit.



Does the install kit include a Setup Editor compatible with this version?

--Bob


----------



## EL

it's coming with this file

Setup Editor v1.29e.exe


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12918658
> 
> 
> Does the install kit include a Setup Editor compatible with this version?
> 
> --Bob



In the archive is LiveVideoSettingsEditor v1.20.exe (appears to be the same as in previous 1.21 releases) and Setup Editor v1.29e.exe.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This is good. Looks like they are just about ready to make everything official -- probably as V1.30.


So has anyone been able to place an order for the ARC-1 Room EQ stuff yet?

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12918195
> 
> http://tech.anthemav.com .
> 
> 
> By the way, instructions on setting up the ARC-1 is also available there.
> 
> 
> Ben



That URL is password protected.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/12919655
> 
> 
> That URL is password protected.



AS ADVERTISED - You have to get it from Anthem Tech Support.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12919608
> 
> 
> This is good. Looks like they are just about ready to make everything official -- probably as V1.30.
> 
> 
> So has anyone been able to place an order for the ARC-1 Room EQ stuff yet?
> 
> --Bob



I'm ready to - haven't seen anyone offer it yet.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12919608
> 
> 
> This is good. Looks like they are just about ready to make everything official -- probably as V1.30.
> 
> 
> So has anyone been able to place an order for the ARC-1 Room EQ stuff yet?
> 
> --Bob



As soon as someone will sell it to me, I'll order it.


----------



## Tim Winders

I decided to take the plunge and installed 1.29j. Everything seems to be OK. I wasn't having any troubles with 1.21d, so there won't be much for me to test. Will post if I notice any problems.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12921672
> 
> 
> I decided to take the plunge and installed 1.29j. Everything seems to be OK. I wasn't having any troubles with 1.21d, so there won't be much for me to test. Will post if I notice any problems.




Tim,


Can you send me the 1.29j firmware file? I presume its after office hours in North America, here were just getting up. email address is: [email protected] .


Alvin

Philippines


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A reminder to folks, the D2 and AVM-50 firmware install files are different since the hardware is different. Be sure you specify which you are trying to get in requests like this.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/12922460
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> 
> Can you send me the 1.29j firmware file? I presume its after office hours in North America, here were just getting up. email address is: [email protected] .
> 
> 
> Alvin
> 
> Philippines



Sent.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12922712
> 
> 
> A reminder to folks, the D2 and AVM-50 firmware install files are different since the hardware is different. Be sure you specify which you are trying to get in requests like this.
> 
> --Bob



No problem, Bob. The download file from Anthem includes clearly labelled installers for both the D2 and AVM50.


=== Tim


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12921672
> 
> 
> I decided to take the plunge and installed 1.29j. Everything seems to be OK. I wasn't having any troubles with 1.21d, so there won't be much for me to test. Will post if I notice any problems.



Panic there for a moment... after I finished the upgrade, the kids watched a show on the TiVo (Big Bang Theory). For the first time ever, I saw sparklies randomly through the show. I thought I might have messed up soem of the HDMI cables when disconnecting from the Anthem for the upgrade (I do have the short Monoprice HDMI port savers which is what I actually disconnected from the HDMI cable to the device, but left plugged into the D2).


I tried to redo all the HDMI cables, but the same thing. I know 1080P over long distances is subject to mystery workings and not workings. Fear. Panic. (I have a 50' fiber optic HDMI cable with 1M coax cables on each end connecting my D2 to my Epson Home Cinema 1080 projector).


But, then the next show was fine. Live TV was fine. Several HD trailers downloaded from the Playstation Network and played back from the PS3 were fine. Now watching a standard DVD through the PS3 (upconverted to 1080P by the D2) and it's OK as well.


So, I'm guessing/hoping it was just that individual recording and not something introduced with the new firmware or me touching the HDMI cables.


HDMI voodoo.










Will post if anything changes.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12922904
> 
> 
> Panic there for a moment... after I finished the upgrade, the kids watched a show on the TiVo (Big Bang Theory). For the first time ever, I saw sparklies randomly through the show. I thought I might have messed up soem of the HDMI cables when disconnecting from the Anthem for the upgrade (I do have the short Monoprice HDMI port savers which is what I actually disconnected from the HDMI cable to the device, but left plugged into the D2).
> 
> 
> I tried to redo all the HDMI cables, but the same thing. I know 1080P over long distances is subject to mystery workings and not workings. Fear. Panic. (I have a 50' fiber optic HDMI cable with 1M coax cables on each end connecting my D2 to my Epson Home Cinema 1080 projector).
> 
> 
> But, then the next show was fine. Live TV was fine. Several HD trailers downloaded from the Playstation Network and played back from the PS3 were fine. Now watching a standard DVD through the PS3 (upconverted to 1080P by the D2) and it's OK as well.
> 
> 
> So, I'm guessing/hoping it was just that individual recording and not something introduced with the new firmware or me touching the HDMI cables.
> 
> 
> HDMI voodoo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will post if anything changes.



Tim,


There are no major issues with version 1.29j that I'm aware of. To err on the side of caution make sure you're not using any detail enhancement in the video menu.


Jim


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12924852
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> 
> There are no major issues with version 1.29j that I'm aware of. To err on the side of caution make sure you're not using any detail enhancement in the video menu.
> 
> 
> Jim



Thanks, Jim. All detail enhancement is off. I've watched a few more hours of SD and HD content and haven't seen any more examples of sparkles. I'm now sure it was in the content I was watching and nothing with the setup.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12925000
> 
> 
> Thanks, Jim. All detail enhancement is off. I've watched a few more hours of SD and HD content and haven't seen any more examples of sparkles. I'm now sure it was in the content I was watching and nothing with the setup.



Have you tried going back to the Tivo program? If it is embedded in that program, then it will happen every time you watch it.


----------



## benleeys

Hi Guys,


In case you are not aware, the D2 has been awarded the Best A/V Controller of 2007 by The Perfect Vision.


"Expensive, and worth every red cent, Anthem's Statement D2 represents the intersection of great build, quality, superb sound, terrific video processing capabilities and - most importantly - long-term upgradeability. There may be better controllers out there, but they won't be a lot better and will cost an arm and a leg. For all practical purposes, this is as good as it gets."


With the ARC-1 feature now, it gets even better.


Cheers!

Ben


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/12925247
> 
> 
> Have you tried going back to the Tivo program? If it is embedded in that program, then it will happen every time you watch it.



Would have been the definitive test if the show hadn't been deleted.


Oh! It will be in deleted items! I'll undelete and watch it again. Great thinking. I'll let you know after I test tonight.


----------



## dweltman

Has 480p to 1080p been addressed in the latest firmware?


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/12927045
> 
> 
> Has 480p to 1080p been addressed in the latest firmware?



I'm not familiar with the 480P to 1080P problem. Which version was this a problem and on what type of inputs? HDMI? Component?


I was running 1.21d and did not have this problem. Output 480P from my PS3 for standard DVDs over HDMI into the D2. No problem. Continues to work fine with 1.29j.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I will install 1.29j in my AVM-50 later tonight and post back.



Regards,


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12927347
> 
> 
> I'm not familiar with the 480P to 1080P problem. Which version was this a problem and on what type of inputs? HDMI? Component?
> 
> 
> I was running 1.21d and did not have this problem. Output 480P from my PS3 for standard DVDs over HDMI into the D2. No problem. Continues to work fine with 1.29j.



Maybe I'm mistaken but wasn't this the conversion that the D2 had issues with?


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/12927506
> 
> 
> Maybe I'm mistaken but wasn't this the conversion that the D2 had issues with?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/12927045
> 
> 
> Has 480p to 1080p been addressed in the latest firmware?



I think you mean conversion to 1080p/24 from regular dvd.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/12927506
> 
> 
> Maybe I'm mistaken but wasn't this the conversion that the D2 had issues with?



The problem was with 480i/60 to 1080p/24 and with 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversions when viewing "film-based" content -- i.e., normal movies as seen on TV channels or standard DVD, or as seen from HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players which have been set to output 1080i/60.


I've seen nothing in the release notes posted here to indicate Anthem has fixed this yet, and the word we had from Anthem some months back was that they intended to release the ARC-1 software before fixing this.


1080p24 input to 1080p/24 output already works just fine in software versions V1.12 or higher.


--------------------------------


Note that this is only applicable if viewing film-based stuff -- content originally recorded at 24 frames per second. When viewing video based stuff -- content originally recorded at 30 frames per second, and presented as 60 interlaced half-frames per second -- you should not be using /24 output from the Anthem to your display because it can't possibly look right. I.e., there is no clean way to present 30fps as 24fps.


It is also only applicable if your TV will accept 1080p/24 as a valid input type and will then ALSO display it at a multiple of 24 fps. Most TVs out there right now, even 1080p TVs, will not do this, and so for such "normal" TVs, the frame rate to send them, even for movies, is /60. But for TVs that CAN do this, sending 1080p/24 to them will result in movie viewing which is free of the "cadence judder" inherent in the process of presenting 24fps content at 30fps. You have seen "cadence judder" all your TV viewing life up to now. And if you don't know what it is, that's because the effect is subtle and the brain is very good at "not seeing" it unless you have a judder-free setup side by side for comparison.

--Bob


----------



## djhamilton

Can someone tell me the best settings to use on both the PS3 and the AVM50 to play SACD's over HDMI? It looks like I am just getting the CD layer of my hybrid CD/SACD discs.


thanks,


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djhamilton* /forum/post/12928043
> 
> 
> Can someone tell me the best settings to use on both the PS3 and the AVM50 to play SACD's over HDMI? It looks like I am just getting the CD layer of my hybrid CD/SACD discs.
> 
> 
> thanks,



What does the AVM50 say about the incoming audio "rate"? It will be PCM in either case (CD or SACD). SACD from my Oppo is 88.2Khz PCM (IIRC). The PS3 may upsample the CD PCM so it may be hard to tell. I've never used my PS3 to play music so I don't know if it has a "preference" setting for Redbook vs SACD for hybrids.


larry


----------



## djhamilton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12928580
> 
> 
> What does the AVM50 say about the incoming audio "rate"? It will be PCM in either case (CD or SACD). SACD from my Oppo is 88.2Khz PCM (IIRC). The PS3 may upsample the CD PCM so it may be hard to tell. I've never used my PS3 to play music so I don't know if it has a "preference" setting for Redbook vs SACD for hybrids.
> 
> 
> larry



I think I figured it out. I went in and manually set the sampling rates on the PS3. I think it was trying to use 192Khz and I think the AVM50 can only do 88.2Khz. Anyway when I unchecked all the 192Khz rates so that the PS3 would not be able to use that rate, all seems to be working now.


Now I am trying to decide which sounds better for SACD, the PS3 or my Oppo DV-981HD.










thanks,


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12927922
> 
> 
> The problem was with 480i/60 to 1080p/24 and with 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversions when viewing "film-based" content -- i.e., normal movies as seen on TV channels or standard DVD, or as seen from HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players which have been set to output 1080i/60.



Thanks for the clarification, Bob.


My display doesn't support 1080P/24 so I have not run into this issue. I do have my PS3 set to force 24fps, so my Anthem is taking 24fps input and outputting 60fps without trouble.


=== Tim


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12917082
> 
> 
> I assume there is some ATV HDMI issue between the Anthem
> 
> and the ATV. I talked with Apple Tech Support yesterday and
> 
> they did say 720p over HDMI is suppose to work but they
> 
> acknowledged 1080i does not. They would not say that 1080i
> 
> would be fixed in future software update.



720p over HDMI doesn't work either, trust me - despite the fact that it is actually the native rate of an AppleTV. HDMI just plain sucks from this box through the D2...again, no big deal at all, unless someone is out of Component inputs on the D2, then of course you could be SOL.


I should mention that I have not yet tried the brand new 1.29j D2 software, and of course Apple has not yet released their update, though it's coming very soon as well.


Brian


----------



## mr_fitz

Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem?


Just recently when playing a dvd I get no sound from the movie or menu of the movie but I get an extremely loud high pitched noise through my speakers. If I turn off the oppo and turn it back it on there is no problem with the sound anymore.


I have the 970 hooked up hdmi to my Anthem D2. Any ideas?


Thanks


John


----------



## barhoram

I just installed the latest firmware. I can't really tell if this is a new issue or not...perhaps I just hadn't noticed before. When I start up a play either a HD-DVD (XA1) or a Blu-Ray (Pioneer 94HD) after the menu screen, when I press play, I get 2 or 3 jumps from a blue screen back to the video...until it finally locks in. Then it's fine...and appears to be fine throughout the movie. Is this a normal thing that others see??


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/12936908
> 
> 
> 720p over HDMI doesn't work either, trust me - despite the fact that it is actually the native rate of an AppleTV. HDMI just plain sucks from this box through the D2...again, no big deal at all, unless someone is out of Component inputs on the D2, then of course you could be SOL.
> 
> 
> I should mention that I have not yet tried the brand new 1.29j D2 software, and of course Apple has not yet released their update, though it's coming very soon as well.
> 
> 
> Brian



Hi Brian


I have 1.29j - but I don't dare install it over the weekend just

in case things go wrong. I'll wait until next week. Anthem Tech

Support thinks 1.29j will fix the Apple TV Problem.


All 4 of my Component inputs are being used - So I had to OBSOLETE

one of my Component Sources - my old SONY SD-DVD player. No

big Deal - But I have 2 spare HDMI ports so if 1.29J fixes Apple TV

then I can get my old SD-DVD player back.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12936995
> 
> 
> I just installed the latest firmware. I can't really tell if this is a new issue or not...perhaps I just hadn't noticed before. When I start up a play either a HD-DVD (XA1) or a Blu-Ray (Pioneer 94HD) after the menu screen, when I press play, I get 2 or 3 jumps from a blue screen back to the video...until it finally locks in. Then it's fine...and appears to be fine throughout the movie. Is this a normal thing that others see??



that's pretty normal on my D1-HD (running 1.21 version).


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12937142
> 
> 
> I have 1.29j - but I don't dare install it over the weekend just
> 
> in case things go wrong. I'll wait until next week. Anthem Tech
> 
> Support thinks 1.29j will fix the Apple TV Problem.



I'm still running 1.11e and, since I have an AVM-50 without the ability to utilize room correction, I'll probably just stick tight. I've developed what I think is probably a healthy leeriness for new firmware unless there's a significant issue to be addressed (like yours).


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12936985
> 
> 
> Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem?
> 
> 
> Just recently when playing a dvd I get no sound from the movie or menu of the movie but I get an extremely loud high pitched noise through my speakers. If I turn off the oppo and turn it back it on there is no problem with the sound anymore.
> 
> 
> I have the 970 hooked up hdmi to my Anthem D2. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



Yep... My wife has mentioned this several times while I was away and I think I got bit by it a couple of times. I've been watching mostly HD DVDs and Blu-rays lately so the Oppo hasn't been getting much use. I don't believe it has happened since upgrading to the 1.21d firmware though, so you may want to try that if you haven't already.


----------



## cargen

I had the loud whine noise between my Oppo 970 and D1-HD a few months ago and I detailed the problem with long emails to both Nick at sftech and Oppo tech support. As a result, Nick had had no prior reports but emailed me v1.12s which cured it completely. Zero problem since.


Chris


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cargen* /forum/post/12937566
> 
> 
> I had the loud whine noise between my Oppo 970 and D1-HD a few months ago and I detailed the problem with long emails to both Nick at sftech and Oppo tech support. As a result, Nick had had no prior reports but emailed me v1.12s which cured it completely. Zero problem since.
> 
> 
> Chris



I had the "Oppo screech" problem intermittently prior to 1.21d. Usually it went away by switching inputs. With 1.21d it did not go away when it happened and it happened just about all the time. I stopped using HDMI audio from the Oppo (not needed for SD-DVDs). I have to use 1.21d to fix the "mch PCM crackling problem". Nick/Anthem has experienced the problem but they can't reproduce it reliably enough to isolated the cause. They use many Oppos for testing. From what they know so far the HDMI port is getting "locked up" for some reason. This only happens with the Oppo (maybe just 970).


larry


----------



## obie_fl

970 here too.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12937142
> 
> 
> Hi Brian
> 
> 
> I have 1.29j - but I don't dare install it over the weekend just
> 
> in case things go wrong. I'll wait until next week. Anthem Tech
> 
> Support thinks 1.29j will fix the Apple TV Problem.
> 
> 
> All 4 of my Component inputs are being used - So I had to OBSOLETE
> 
> one of my Component Sources - my old SONY SD-DVD player. No
> 
> big Deal - But I have 2 spare HDMI ports so if 1.29J fixes Apple TV
> 
> then I can get my old SD-DVD player back.



Very cool! Yeah, let me know if 1.29j fixes this, I'll be curious...I might be moving some components in/out of my setup, and having the flexibility for HDMI from AppleTV might be cool down the road a bit.


Thanks!

-Brian


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12936985
> 
> 
> Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem?
> 
> 
> Just recently when playing a dvd I get no sound from the movie or menu of the movie but I get an extremely loud high pitched noise through my speakers. If I turn off the oppo and turn it back it on there is no problem with the sound anymore.
> 
> 
> I have the 970 hooked up hdmi to my Anthem D2. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



I have the same setup that you mention and have never seen this behaviour. I watched a movie last night and didn't see any problems.


Buddy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12936995
> 
> 
> I just installed the latest firmware. I can't really tell if this is a new issue or not...perhaps I just hadn't noticed before. When I start up a play either a HD-DVD (XA1) or a Blu-Ray (Pioneer 94HD) after the menu screen, when I press play, I get 2 or 3 jumps from a blue screen back to the video...until it finally locks in. Then it's fine...and appears to be fine throughout the movie. Is this a normal thing that others see??



Make sure you have Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF for that input. It is also likely best to have Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO for that input.


These two settings simplify what has to go on for the HDMI connection to get established.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12936985
> 
> 
> Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem?
> 
> 
> Just recently when playing a dvd I get no sound from the movie or menu of the movie but I get an extremely loud high pitched noise through my speakers. If I turn off the oppo and turn it back it on there is no problem with the sound anymore.
> 
> 
> I have the 970 hooked up hdmi to my Anthem D2. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



This sounds like the HDMI connection has not done its handshake properly and that the traditional bitstream from the Oppo (DD5.1 or DTS) is being interpreted as if it is already decoded into PCM. A bitstream played as if it were actually PCM sounds like a loud screech.


Folks in the past who tried to play 96KHz DTS audio tracks over coax or optical digital audio cable into standard AVRs that didn't support that (or even standard DTS movie tracks into older AVRs without any DTS support) are well familiar with this.


To check this, MUTE the D2, and perhaps even turn off your power amp for safety, and then see what the D2 says it is receiving as audio input from the Oppo -- press Select repeatedly to see those status displays and also go to Video Source Adjust / Info.


Now as to why it is happening to you I'm not sure. Did you recently change anything that might have altered your HDMI setup from the Oppo? Are you using a new programmable remote that might have changed the order or timing of when the Oppo and the D2 power on? Did you put new firmware in the Oppo? Did you change HDMI cables or move any equipment that might have possibly pulled on your existing cables and loosened the plugs in the sockets?


As always, I suggest you check that you have Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF and Setup/ Source Setup/ HDMI Repeater = NO set in the Anthem for that HDMI input to simplify the HDMI connection handshake.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12938729
> 
> 
> Make sure you have Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF for that input. It is also likely best to have Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO for that input.
> 
> 
> These two settings simplify what has to go on for the HDMI connection to get established.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


What exactly is this HDMI Repeater = No/Yes setting in the Source Setup menu? Has it got anything to do with long runs of HDMI cables requiring repeaters to maintain signal strength?


Thanks

Ben


----------



## PooperScooper

I'm not Bob, but it has nothing to do with signal strength or equalization. It has to do with repeating the display's (target) EDID info to the source device (or not repeating). Using only EDID of the display may limit what the source (and D2) is capable of doing. This can be especially true with DVI based displays. I don't know if anybody has had an issue with leaving HDMI repeater "off".


larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12939735
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> What exactly is this HDMI Repeater = No/Yes setting in the Source Setup menu? Has it got anything to do with long runs of HDMI cables requiring repeaters to maintain signal strength?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ben



In the HDMI spec, the source device is responsible for establishing the entire connection from source to display, and in particular for making sure that copy protection is in place from end to end.


When there is a device (or more than one device) between the source and the display, that means the source first has to work with the device it is directly connected to, and then has to ask the next device down the chain THROUGH that first device (and so on). This is called repeater processing. And it is a good deal more complex than a direct connection from source to display.


For example, what if the TV is OFF but the AVR in the middle is perfectly capable of playing audio? Should the source be upset?


And what if the TV and the AVR in the middle are willing to accept differing types of video streams? Should the source do what the display wants?


And on top of this, some source devices (cable TV boxes from Motorola were notorious for this) simply didn't even bother to TRY to implement repeater processing. The moment they discovered they were not directly connected to a TV they just gave up and failed out the connection. (Motorola fixed this with new firmware last summer, but it is possible, even today, that not all cable companies have pushed this out to their customers yet.)


So Anthem put in the Repeater=NO option. Simply put, it causes the Anthem to lie to the source and tell the source it is directly connected to a TV. A TV that is willing to accept an unusually large range of video styles and audio styles, but a TV nonetheless.


Which keeps the source happy.


Then the Anthem has to do the rest of the hard work, such as making sure the TV (if connected and turned on) actually implements copy protection. The Anthem won't lie about this to the source (since to do so would violate its own licensing), but if the TV is not connected or is powered off the Anthem will tell the source that everything is fine. The Anthem also has to deal with any differences between what the TV accepts and what the Anthem accepts as input.


The upshot is that setting HDMI Repeater = NO makes the source's job much easier and puts the burden on the Anthem. Which means things pretty much always work better.


You can imagine a case where it would be important for the source to know what the TV is willing to accept when that differs from what the Anthem will accept. But so far, I have yet to run into, or even hear of, a single, real-world case where this is an issue. I.e., I have not been able to discover any down-side to setting HDMI Repeater=NO for every single Anthem HDMI input device.


Presumably the Repeater=YES option is in there just because that's the only way the Anthem can pass HDMI compliance testing.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand

I also get a slow lock in by my Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player, with 2 to 3 flashes back and forth between green and blue screens before the movie starts. My PS3 locks in quickly, every time. I'm thinking about picking up one of the newer HD-DVD players. Does either the A30 or A35 lock in any faster, and does either one have any other issues with the D2 I should be aware of?


----------



## RIppolito

Does anyone know what type of handshaking occurs between the source and the Anthem for audio? Is it similar to the video handshaking that Bob referred to a couple of messages ago? Is maximum sampling rate one of the parameters?


Thanks in advance,


Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/12942462
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what type of handshaking occurs between the source and the Anthem for audio? Is it similar to the video handshaking that Bob referred to a couple of messages ago? Is maximum sampling rate one of the parameters?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Ron



Yes it is, as well as max number of channels. The source reads this stuff from the audio destination device the same way it finds out about acceptable video resolutions.


HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of the HDMI video. So the source and destination have to agree on all that stuff, and there has to be a (possibly faked) video signal for HDMI audio to happen at all. Among other things, this means the audio comes in under the copy protection umbrella of the video as well.


[In addition to the limits of source and destination, HDMI audio may ALSO be limited by the chosen VIDEO bandwidth. This is why DVD-Audio or SACD over HDMI needs a *VIDEO* resolution of 720p or higher to get all the channels at full bandwidth. The audio can only take up to a certain percentage of the given video bandwidth since it is embedded inside the video. And 480i or 480p video doesn't leave enough room.]


My Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR, for example, actually ends up doing 2 handshakes if you pass audio over HDMI. It does one handshake which just starts up video, and then it does it all over again to add the audio as well. Normally you don't "see" the second one, but you "hear" the audio being delayed for a couple seconds after the video starts. Passing audio over optical avoids this annoying delay even if you are still passing video over HDMI. But there's no reason they couldn't have engineered it to do it all in one handshake.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12936995
> 
> 
> I just installed the latest firmware. I can't really tell if this is a new issue or not...perhaps I just hadn't noticed before. When I start up a play either a HD-DVD (XA1) or a Blu-Ray (Pioneer 94HD) after the menu screen, when I press play, I get 2 or 3 jumps from a blue screen back to the video...until it finally locks in. Then it's fine...and appears to be fine throughout the movie. Is this a normal thing that others see??



I'm on 1.21 and I used to get a jump or maybe 2 on certain HD DVDs on my A-2 but oddly enough and I swear this is true, I bought a Toshiba D3 as a "backup" player and after reading your post, I realized it doesn't happen anymore.

I will however look at the Framelock=No setting that Bob mentioned just out of curiosity.


----------



## RIppolito

Bob, thanks for the quick reply on HDMI audio handshaking: very helpful.


Does the Anthem (I have an AVM 50) have a maximum incoming sampling rate of 88.2 kHz? I have a PS3 that allows sampling rates of up to 176.4 kHz, but the most I have seen come over is 88.2. By the way, does the D2 go higher?


Thanks again,


Ron


----------



## obie_fl

I believe both the AVM-50 and D2 go up to 96Khz.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12936985
> 
> 
> Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem?
> 
> 
> Just recently when playing a dvd I get no sound from the movie or menu of the movie but I get an extremely loud high pitched noise through my speakers. If I turn off the oppo and turn it back it on there is no problem with the sound anymore.
> 
> 
> I have the 970 hooked up hdmi to my Anthem D2. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



Greetings,


I have the 970 althought I don't use it that much anymore. I didn't recall having this issue and wanted to be sure. After checking last night I can confirm that this is NOT an issue with my AVM-50 and the 970HD.


Regards,


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/12943347
> 
> 
> I believe both the AVM-50 and D2 go up to 96Khz.



Yes, I believe so also and the D2 will upsample the input to 192Khz.


larry


----------



## brewster201

Install cooling control on the D2 due to limited space in my cabinet. I used two variable speed 120mm fans with filters installed so I'm not blowing dirt into my Anthem D2. The fans are triggered on when the D2 powers up. Works great and the fans are very quiet. I originally purchased a Pico Macom and found it very noisy. Used some of the controls / front cover power supply and made up a from oak and plywood and a splash of black paint.

The fans I used are the Silver Stone FM121- 800 rpm-2400 rpm long life dual ball bearing with included fan control. You could use this for any receiver/ processor if you are concerned about heat and requiring controlled cooling


Thanks

Bruce


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brewster201* /forum/post/12946148
> 
> 
> Install cooling control on the D2 due limited space in my cabinet. I used two variable speed 120mm fans with filters install so I'm not blowing dirt into my Anthem D2. The fans are triggered on when the D2 powers up. Works great and the fans are very quiet. I originally purchased a Pico Macom and found it very noisy. Used some of the controls / front cover power supply and made up a from oak and plywood and a splash of black paint.
> 
> The fans I used are the Silver Stone FM121- 800 rpm-2400 rpm long life dual ball bearing with included fan control. You could use this for any receiver/ processor if you are concerned about heat and requiring controlled cooling
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bruce



Pretty cool!







How much did this setup cost you?


----------



## brewster201

Fans were purchased at Tiger Direct for $14.99 each, 120v-12v transformer$5.99, Transformer adapter $1.99, Switch or running light $3.99, borrowed a 4" hole saw, oak, 1/4 plywood and satin black paint. I purchased on EBay a Niles Audio AC-3 Automated Switching System so you just plug the fan in and run a 12v trigger from the D2 to AC-3 so it starts automatically. It works great and you control the amount of cooling!










Bruce


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brewster201* /forum/post/12946352
> 
> 
> Fans were purchased at Tiger Direct for $14.99 each, 120v-12v transformer$5.99, Transformer adapter $1.99, Switch or running light $3.99, borrowed a 4" hole saw, oak, 1/4 plywood and satin black paint. I purchased on EBay a Niles Audio AC-3 Automated Switching System so you just plug the fan in and run a 12v trigger from the D2 to AC-3 so it starts automatically. It works great and you control the amount of cooling!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce



Thank you. I've saved the references in case I need something in the future. most setups I've seen are very expensive, but this looks very reasonable.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12940363
> 
> 
> In the HDMI spec, the source device is responsible for establishing the entire connection from source to display, and in particular for making sure that copy protection is in place from end to end.
> 
> ........................
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


You are a gem at making explanations so simple to understand for non-technical guys like me. Many thanks.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12940362
> 
> 
> I'm not Bob, but it has nothing to do with signal strength or equalization. ......



You too, larry. When I mentioned the part about signal strength, I must have been thinking of undersea telecommunication cables.










Ben


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/12922460
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> 
> Can you send me the 1.29j firmware file? I presume its after office hours in North America, here were just getting up. email address is: [email protected] .
> 
> 
> Alvin
> 
> Philippines



If anyone can send this to me as well I would very much appreciate it - [email protected] 


Thanks,

David


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/12949046
> 
> 
> If anyone can send this to me as well I would very much appreciate it - [email protected]
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



On the way.


----------



## ninja12

I just received my new D2 a couple of days ago. I have completed my set, and it was pretty smooth. I do have a couple of questions.


Q1) Is the Main Audio Out (balanced and unbalanced) available at the same time? For example, if I connect FL-balanced to a balanced connection on one amp, can I also connect FL-unbalanced to an unbalanced connection on a different amp?


Q2) I have a Mitsubishi Diamond 65831 which is capable of doing split screen. My TV has a cable card which is used for doing split screen. In order for me to do split screen, will I need to use Video Configuration 2? Also, should I use a component connection for split screen since I am using HDMI for Video Configuration 1? I apologize if I am sounding a little confused here; but, I am confused. So, if you can shed some light on the split screen scenario here, I will truly appreciate it.


BTW, my wife normally comes down to listen and see what I have done. Normally, she says it's nice and leaves the room. She's really not into sound and the HT stuff like I am. However, after I set up the D2 and did the calibration, she came down. She set in the chair, and I played the scene from Bad Boys II. The one where they were doing the shooting and the bridge screen with all the crashes and explosions. After that scene, I stop the DVD. She looked at me speechless and with her mouth wide open. The only thing she could do was shake her head and say WOW, WOW. I never heard it sound so good before. It really sounds really good. That thing (my D2







) made that much of a difference. I can't believe it. She left the room and all she was say was WOW. When we turned in for the night, she said honey you system really sounds good. We don't have to go to the movies anymore. The next morning she was up and said let's go watch a movie.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/12949509
> 
> 
> BTW, my wife normally comes down to listen and see what I have done. Normally, she says it's nice and leaves the room. She's really not into sound and the HT stuff like I am. However, after I set up the D2 and did the calibration, she came down. She set in the chair, and I played the scene from Bad Boys II. The one where they were doing the shooting and the bridge screen with all the crashes and explosions. After that scene, I stop the DVD. She looked at me speechless and with her mouth wide open. The only thing she could do was shake her head and say WOW, WOW. I never heard it sound so good before. It really sounds really good. That thing (my D2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) made that much of a difference. I can't believe it. She left the room and all she was say was WOW. When we turned in for the night, she said honey you system really sounds good. We don't have to go to the movies anymore. The next morning she was up and said let's go watch a movie.



You have reached the ULTIMATE level of WAF (Wife acceptance factor) with the D2. Imagine how easy it will be to suggest an upgrade










My wife is similar. She is into spectacular visuals no doubt, but doesn't get truly excited unless the AUDIO is enveloping.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/12945226
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I have the 970 althought I don't use it that much anymore. I didn't recall having this issue and wanted to be sure. After checking last night I can confirm that this is NOT an issue with my AVM-50 and the 970HD.
> 
> 
> Regards,



Just another data point - I also have the Oppo 970 and the D2. Using FW 1.11e. I experience NO problems with the ppo, D2 and Sony Ruby. HDMI all the way.


My Oppo's disc platter is starting to vibrate due to too many rental DVDs, though - but that's for a DIFFERENT thread...


----------



## syswei

What frequency range does the ARC-1 cover?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/12949509
> 
> 
> It really sounds really good. That thing (my D2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) made that much of a difference. I can't believe it.



ENJOY the Anthem Mascots and the SOUND and VIDEO.


----------



## sfm

Was wondering if anyone has successfully updated their D2 using the 1.29j beta firmware?


I was currently running the 1.21d beta which worked reasonably well except for the following issues:


- JVC 5U D-VHS won't handshake with the D2 via hdmi... when no tape is playing things are fine (480i) but attempting to play either a HD (1080i) or SD (480i) tape they refuse to talk (endless loop of a few seconds of picture, few seconds of blue screen, few seconds of an error screen from the JVC stating that it is not connected to a device capable of HDCP). So I use component.


- switching between 480i and 720p/1080i channels from the cable box or Tivo is problematic... sometimes it works and sometimes not (blue screen or video but no audio)... switching input on the D2 away and then back usually fixes things.


So I thought I would try 1.29j to see if these issues are addressed or better but the first attempt resulted in the following issues:


- osd messed up... text okay but the background was a rainbow of colors along with some "twittering"


- for all devices connected via component I no longer had any video!


Hdmi appeared to be okay (but the problems with 1.21d remain). So I switched back to 1.21d but, yikes, had the same issues as with 1.29j (messed up osd and component video not working). So then I switched back to 1.29j but this time could get no audio/video out of the D2 regardless of what I tried!


It took several more attempts at loading 1.21d before things returned to normal (osd display okay and component video working)... Was worried for a bit but things are working now as they were before I tried 1.29j the first time.


Is it normal for these firmware loads to be so non-deterministic? I believe I follow the instructions to the letter (even used the flash erase tool in between when trying to restore) but it took a couple of attempts before things became normal again.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/12950057
> 
> 
> Was wondering if anyone has successfully updated their D2 using the 1.29j beta firmware?
> 
> ....



I installed 1.29j and haven't seen any of the problems you mention.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12947537
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> You are a gem at making explanations so simple to understand for non-technical guys like me. Many thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You too, larry. When I mentioned the part about signal strength, I must have been thinking of undersea telecommunication cables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



There are HDMI repeaters intended for what you originally thought. It was a reasonable question.


larry


----------



## Milt99

sfm,

Was this your first firmware update?

If not, how did the others ones go.

Also what kind of cable did you use, usb-serial or serial-serial.


----------



## velvethammer

I currently have an avm50 with a benq w10000. I am having motion bluring issures using my direct tv hd receiver...i have them connected using hdmi and have the avm50 set to output 1080p/24...the projector has no prob with either my hd ax1 or my ps3 when it comes to movies but when i use the direct tv signal i have a very soft picture and motion blur.....i previously had a optoma hd78dc3 projector hooked up to this setup with no probs.....anyone have any ideas......


thanks


velvet


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brewster201* /forum/post/12946148
> 
> 
> Install cooling control on the D2 due to limited space in my cabinet. I used two variable speed 120mm fans with filters installed so I'm not blowing dirt into my Anthem D2. The fans are triggered on when the D2 powers up. Works great and the fans are very quiet. I originally purchased a Pico Macom and found it very noisy. Used some of the controls / front cover power supply and made up a from oak and plywood and a splash of black paint.
> 
> The fans I used are the Silver Stone FM121- 800 rpm-2400 rpm long life dual ball bearing with included fan control. You could use this for any receiver/ processor if you are concerned about heat and requiring controlled cooling
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bruce



With the fans on top of the D2 as pictured they should be blowing up, pulling hot air out of the D2 (and the filters if used would be on the bottom of the D2, separate from the fan unit). Blowing down they are fighting the natural convection cooling of the D2 and may leave hot spots internally. If in doubt, check with Anthem tech support...


----------



## scottshd

just up graded my display and can"t get hdmi to work I have a pioneer pro-150 fd plasma denon 3930-ci dvd player and direct tv standard for now. I can"t get any picture on display thru hdmi only with s-video hooked up hdmi from dvd to tv and that works so problem is in the d2 running firmware ver. 1.20 which came with it.settings source setup b.vid out confg. 1 c.scaler input hdmi 4 d.comp. in none e d-video in dvd f. comps. in none g. audio in dig hdmi h. auto dig yes i. hdmi map auto repeater no also tried yes video out settings tried different resulutions didn't help when I exit the setup screen the picture flashes on for a second and then nothing in the video source adj.#7 key says no video signal thanks for any help scott


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/12949509
> 
> 
> I just received my new D2 a couple of days ago. I have completed my set, and it was pretty smooth. I do have a couple of questions.
> 
> 
> Q1) Is the Main Audio Out (balanced and unbalanced) available at the same time? For example, if I connect FL-balanced to a balanced connection on one amp, can I also connect FL-unbalanced to an unbalanced connection on a different amp?
> 
> 
> Q2) I have a Mitsubishi Diamond 65831 which is capable of doing split screen. My TV has a cable card which is used for doing split screen. In order for me to do split screen, will I need to use Video Configuration 2? Also, should I use a component connection for split screen since I am using HDMI for Video Configuration 1? I apologize if I am sounding a little confused here; but, I am confused. So, if you can shed some light on the split screen scenario here, I will truly appreciate it.



The balanced and unbalanced outputs of the Anthem are live at the same time. If you have a reason to want to hook up a combination of them, feel free to do so. Be aware that the balanced and unbalanced outputs for any given channel differ by a fixed dB level in output volume due to historic, technical reasons that have become standardized.


Doing split screen means that your TV has to receive two different video signals. If your cable card does that, then that means it essentially feeds two, distinct cable TV tuners.


The Anthem has only one signal path for processed video. So it can only feed one processed video signal at a time to your TV.


This is a common problem. Split screen stuff in modern TVs seldom works well with external video sources.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/12951472
> 
> 
> just up graded my display and can"t get hdmi to work I have a pioneer pro-150 fd plasma denon 3930-ci dvd player and direct tv standard for now. I can"t get any picture on display thru hdmi only with s-video hooked up hdmi from dvd to tv and that works so problem is in the d2 running firmware ver. 1.20 which came with it.settings source setup b.vid out confg. 1 c.scaler input hdmi 4 d.comp. in none e d-video in dvd f. comps. in none g. audio in dig hdmi h. auto dig yes i. hdmi map auto repeater no also tried yes video out settings tried different resulutions didn't help when I exit the setup screen the picture flashes on for a second and then nothing in the video source adj.#7 key says no video signal thanks for any help scott



Scott, check the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread. It is likely something simple.


Focus first on seeing if you can get the Anthem's own, internally generated video to display on your TV -- i.e., the Anthem Setup menus and the test patterns found in the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key).


If you can get that working, then you know the output side of your Anthem setup to the TV is correct and you can then focus on the input side settings in your sources and the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## scottshd

Bob thanks for the quick response. If I un hook the s-video cable I get a blue screen and in#7 screen info it says no video signal so I can only get the test patterns. If I leave the s-video cable hooked the tv shows a black screen and in #7 it is in black and white info s-video in 720x480i 59.94hz when I exit setup menu I get a flash of picture and sometimes a flash of blue and green screens and then back to black


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12950192
> 
> 
> There are HDMI repeaters intended for what you originally thought. It was a reasonable question.
> 
> 
> larry



I wish Anthem would revise their manual and provide more explicit information on a lot of the features that the D2 offers. As it is, most of the comments are so cryptic, like that on the HDMI Repeater - "If an HDMI input is assigned correctly yet it doesn't work, try this setting to 'No'."







Seems the manual assumes all users are technically savvy guys. For comparison, people like Rotel really do provide an excellent manual for their products. They bother to explain why such a setting is necessary and its resultant effects.


Having said that, I think the latest edition of the manual (1.3x) is a slight improvement over the previous one. For instance, Aspect Ratio Control is now well illustrated with pictorial examples.


Perhaps they should engage Bob Pariseau to rewrite their manuals.










Ben


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12950103
> 
> 
> I installed 1.29j and haven't seen any of the problems you mention.



Neither have I. On the contrary, there is definitely an improvement to the picture on my Sony CRT - fantastic colors and no more loss of display which used to plague me when using ver 1.11.


Ben


----------



## budeone

I would buy a manual if Bob Pariseau wrote it.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/12950057
> 
> 
> Was wondering if anyone has successfully updated their D2 using the 1.29j beta firmware?
> 
> 
> I was currently running the 1.21d beta which worked reasonably well except for the following issues:
> 
> 
> - JVC 5U D-VHS won't handshake with the D2 via hdmi... when no tape is playing things are fine (480i) but attempting to play either a HD (1080i) or SD (480i) tape they refuse to talk (endless loop of a few seconds of picture, few seconds of blue screen, few seconds of an error screen from the JVC stating that it is not connected to a device capable of HDCP). So I use component.
> 
> 
> - switching between 480i and 720p/1080i channels from the cable box or Tivo is problematic... sometimes it works and sometimes not (blue screen or video but no audio)... switching input on the D2 away and then back usually fixes things.
> 
> 
> So I thought I would try 1.29j to see if these issues are addressed or better but the first attempt resulted in the following issues:
> 
> 
> - osd messed up... text okay but the background was a rainbow of colors along with some "twittering"
> 
> 
> - for all devices connected via component I no longer had any video!
> 
> 
> Hdmi appeared to be okay (but the problems with 1.21d remain). So I switched back to 1.21d but, yikes, had the same issues as with 1.29j (messed up osd and component video not working). So then I switched back to 1.29j but this time could get no audio/video out of the D2 regardless of what I tried!
> 
> 
> It took several more attempts at loading 1.21d before things returned to normal (osd display okay and component video working)... Was worried for a bit but things are working now as they were before I tried 1.29j the first time.
> 
> 
> Is it normal for these firmware loads to be so non-deterministic? I believe I follow the instructions to the letter (even used the flash erase tool in between when trying to restore) but it took a couple of attempts before things became normal again.



I had no issue with loading 1.29j. Have you reset all the setting to default before doing the upgrade? Have you unplug all the HDMI sources?


----------



## bgrounds

On the OSD screen I had the rainbow and jittering. I turned the [email protected] off then back on and all was fine. Everything else is fine...


----------



## mcnisiv

How do I get a copy of the 1.29j update?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcnisiv* /forum/post/12957087
> 
> 
> How do I get a copy of the 1.29j update?



Send a request to Nick at Anthem support.


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/12954508
> 
> 
> I had no issue with loading 1.29j. Have you reset all the setting to default before doing the upgrade? Have you unplug all the HDMI sources?



Sorry... forgot to mention that. I am using the same PC (XP with true serial port) that I have always used to apply firmware to the D2 (which I have had since July of 2006). I have installed and tested every beta firmware since 1.11 on without these types of issues. I reset to factory defaults, unplug all hdmi cables, install the firmware, turn on and let sit for 30 seconds and then turn off and plug everything back in.


Perhaps I'll give it another go again to see if I can get it to take. It did take several attempts to restore 1.21d properly... perhaps the same persistence is required to get 1.29j to install correctly.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12953367
> 
> 
> I wish Anthem would revise their manual and provide more explicit information on a lot of the features that the D2 offers. As it is, most of the comments are so cryptic, like that on the HDMI Repeater - "If an HDMI input is assigned correctly yet it doesn't work, try this setting to 'No'."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems the manual assumes all users are technically savvy guys. For comparison, people like Rotel really do provide an excellent manual for their products. They bother to explain why such a setting is necessary and its resultant effects.
> 
> 
> Having said that, I think the latest edition of the manual (1.3x) is a slight improvement over the previous one. For instance, Aspect Ratio Control is now well illustrated with pictorial examples.
> 
> 
> Perhaps they should engage Bob Pariseau to rewrite their manuals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



I've talked to Nick many times and it's not out of the question that he would forward well written and correct "pieces" to their documentation folks. Wrt HDMI repeater in the manual I can see why they didn't want to get into EDID explanations and the unlimited combinations of issues that can happen.


larry


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12951642
> 
> 
> The balanced and unbalanced outputs of the Anthem are live at the same time. If you have a reason to want to hook up a combination of them, feel free to do so. Be aware that the balanced and unbalanced outputs for any given channel differ by a fixed dB level in output volume due to historic, technical reasons that have become standardized.
> 
> 
> Doing split screen means that your TV has to receive two different video signals. If your cable card does that, then that means it essentially feeds two, distinct cable TV tuners.
> 
> 
> The Anthem has only one signal path for processed video. So it can only feed one processed video signal at a time to your TV.
> 
> 
> This is a common problem. Split screen stuff in modern TVs seldom works well with external video sources.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks for the reply.


I do have another question. When I do split screen, I see the TV program from my cable box, and I also see the TV program from my cable card. My TV is taking the HDMI input for the cable box, and it's using the cable card too to show the second program. Is there any way I can tell the D2 to just take the audio feed I'm sending from the TV back to the D2 instead of trying to process the video? I have a digital audio cable connected from my TV back to the D2 digital audio for SAT. Should I connect the digital audio to another input that does not require any video processing?


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12953367
> 
> 
> I wish Anthem would revise their manual and provide more explicit information on a lot of the features that the D2 offers. As it is, most of the comments are so cryptic, like that on the HDMI Repeater - "If an HDMI input is assigned correctly yet it doesn't work, try this setting to 'No'."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems the manual assumes all users are technically savvy guys. For comparison, people like Rotel really do provide an excellent manual for their products. They bother to explain why such a setting is necessary and its resultant effects.
> 
> 
> Having said that, I think the latest edition of the manual (1.3x) is a slight improvement over the previous one. For instance, Aspect Ratio Control is now well illustrated with pictorial examples.
> 
> 
> Perhaps they should engage Bob Pariseau to rewrite their manuals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



I can't seem to find anything in the manual regarding the ADC, other than on p.36. I'd love to see how its going to work when it finally comes out.


----------



## work permit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12953367
> 
> 
> I wish Anthem would revise their manual and provide more explicit information on a lot of the features that the D2 offers.



How about Anthem post their existing manual in a wiki format somewhere, and let registered users edit it? Given the user communities interest in the Anthem, I bet the manual would get really good really quickly.


----------



## scottshd

Bob or anyone I still can"t get hdmi to my tv pioneer pro-150 tryed changing all settings and the same thing happens. when I exit the setup menu the picture flashes on for a second or two and then blank screen again. I can get #7 key menu on but its only in black and white.think possibly the hdmi output on the d2 is bad or do I still have something set wrong? I"ll try and call anthem tomarrow. thanks for any replies scott


----------



## Unclejeff

wow. Posting manuals in wiki....Great idea; 'course what would hapen to AVSFORUM.com.........


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/12961943
> 
> 
> Bob or anyone I still can"t get hdmi to my tv pioneer pro-150 tryed changing all settings and the same thing happens. when I exit the setup menu the picture flashes on for a second or two and then blank screen again. I can get #7 key menu on but its only in black and white.think possibly the hdmi output on the d2 is bad or do I still have something set wrong? I"ll try and call anthem tomarrow. thanks for any replies scott



Scott,

It could be a bad cable (or a cable that is too long) or it could be a bad HDMI output from the Anthem or input in the TV.


If the TV has more than one input, try the other input.


The easiest way to check the Anthem is with another HDMI TV -- perhaps at your Anthem dealer. You won't need any sources or speaker connections hooked up to do that -- just use the internally generated Anthem video.


There have been a few cases where people had HDMI problems with the Anthem which were resolved by doing a complete power cycle of the Anthem. To do that, turn off the Anthem with the remote and then ALSO turn off the Anthem using the back panel switch. Wait a few seconds and turn things on again.


Try running the video at 480p to see if that works. 480p is the easiest resolution for an HDMI connection. If that works, and your normal (higher) resolution does not work, then that suggests a cabling problem. Remember that whenever you make any changes in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu, you will have to "accept" these changes before they actually take effect.


If these suggestions don't help then working with Anthem tech support is your best option.

--Bob


----------



## scottshd

Thanks for the replt Bob already tried everything you suggested other than a different tv. Cable is 7ft. and worked fine from dvd player straight to tv. One more question is it possible to output from the d2 in component to tv if I"m not useing any component cables into any d2 inputs? tried running component cables from d2 main out to tv component in and could"t get that to work either.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You can set up S-video or Component cabled inputs to produce Component output from the D2. You can not set up HDMI inputs to produce Component output due to copy protection on HDMI.


That said, you shouldn't be using ANY input sources at this point. Concentrate on getting the Anthem's own internally generated video to show up on your display. That can be done with either the Component or HDMI Anthem outputs. Until you can get that working, adding in source devices just complicates things to no good end. Your best bet until you know you have the Anthem output side working correctly with your TV is simply to select an Anthem input that has nothing connected to it.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/12962572
> 
> 
> Thanks for the replt Bob already tried everything you suggested other than a different tv. Cable is 7ft. and worked fine from dvd player straight to tv. One more question is it possible to output from the d2 in component to tv if I"m not useing any component cables into any d2 inputs? tried running component cables from d2 main out to tv component in and could"t get that to work either.




If you haven't upgraded to version 1.29j you shoud give it a shot.


If you don't have it just PM me with an email address that can accept zipped files that include .exe files.


Make sure you reload factory defaults before you upgrade the software.


Jim


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *work permit* /forum/post/12960421
> 
> 
> How about Anthem post their existing manual in a wiki format somewhere, and let registered users edit it? Given the user communities interest in the Anthem, I bet the manual would get really good really quickly.



That... is an awesome idea.


----------



## scottshd

thanks again Bob when I select a input with nothing connected and go to #7 key menu comes on in full color. input with source #7 back&white. go into setup menu and exit picture for a second or two thanks for your help. I"ll see if anthem can figure it out for me scott


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/12963382
> 
> 
> thanks again Bob when I select a input with nothing connected and go to #7 key menu comes on in full color. input with source #7 back&white. go into setup menu and exit picture for a second or two thanks for your help. I"ll see if anthem can figure it out for me scott



OK this is progress.


If, with no input video selected, you can view the Setup menu on your TV, and if you can view the Video Source Adjust menu on your TV, and both of those look correct, then the output side of your setup is in good shape.


Now, if the video is going away when you select an HDMI source then the problem is on the INPUT side off your Anthem setup.


First, go into Setup / Source Setup for that HDMI input and confirm that you have HDMI Repeater = NO selected.


Then, with that input still selected, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu again, go to the Output panel, and make sure you have Frame Lock = OFF selected.


Then go to the Info panel of the Video Source Adjust menu and report what it is showing for video input and output.


If you are using software version 1.12 or later there are TWO Video Output configurations which can be separately set up and then assigned to each input. Make sure you have selected the Video Output configuration you actually want to use in Setup / Source Setup for the Anthem HDMI input which is failing.


If you are using an HDMI input, then you must also use the HDMI output from the Anthem. The processed Component video output from the Anthem will be muted (black) when you select just about any HDMI input source.


Carefully review your Setup / Video Output settings and your Setup / Source Setup settings for the input which isn't working. Post them here if you would like.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *work permit* /forum/post/12960421
> 
> 
> How about Anthem post their existing manual in a wiki format somewhere, and let registered users edit it? Given the user communities interest in the Anthem, I bet the manual would get really good really quickly.



I don't think Anthem would take to this idea with any amount of enthusiasm. It would not do their corporate image any good to show the world that they are not capable of producing a manual worthy of their world class product.


Ben


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I installed the 1.29j beta on Friday. I powered everything up and my AVM-50 would not handshake/synch with my projector. I recycled power on the AVM-50 twice with no luck.


I re-installed the update again and this time it synched no problem. The following day I powered everything up and same thing. I cycled power on the AVM-50 and it synched.


Sunday it worked fine. Yesterday morning it would not synch so again I cycled power on the unit and it synched up. Last night it worked fine.


This morning I powered everything up and no synch. I cycled power 3 times on the unit and nothing. I powered it off and disconnected power and still nothing.


I re-installed 1.21d and it worked fine.


I had no issues with 1.21d. I can remember having a problem like this intermittently prior to 1.11 (I believe) but it was only every now and then.


This will not do.


I will give Nick a call today.



Regards,


----------



## AnthemAVM

Any update on the room correction?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12965371
> 
> 
> Any update on the room correction?



Soon!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/12957311
> 
> 
> Sorry... forgot to mention that. I am using the same PC (XP with true serial port) that I have always used to apply firmware to the D2 (which I have had since July of 2006). I have installed and tested every beta firmware since 1.11 on without these types of issues. I reset to factory defaults, unplug all hdmi cables, install the firmware, turn on and let sit for 30 seconds and then turn off and plug everything back in.
> 
> 
> Perhaps I'll give it another go again to see if I can get it to take. It did take several attempts to restore 1.21d properly... perhaps the same persistence is required to get 1.29j to install correctly.



It should work. Contact Nick at Anthem he will be able to help. 1.29j is a beta software and it is essential to pass back to him any issues with it.


----------



## mr_fitz

Just wondering if there has been any fix yet for the clicks and pops when watching BD movies on my ps3 hooked up hdmi to my D2?


John


----------



## velvethammer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/12965371
> 
> 
> Any update on the room correction?



Are they going to make this available to us avm50 owners?


----------



## PooperScooper

No. It's one of the things that differentiates the D2 from the AVM50.


larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *velvethammer* /forum/post/12966798
> 
> 
> Are they going to make this available to us avm50 owners?



The D2 hardware includes spare processing power which was intended all along to handle this Room EQ stuff. The AVM-50 hardware does not have the processing power for Anthem to implement the Room EQ.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks (like me) trying to get a handle on the confusing state of the Blu-Ray player world for use with the D2 or AVM-50, I found the following link useful:

http://www.idoblu.co.uk/page2%20Blu-ray%20Players.html 


Key columns are the blue boxes for onboard decoding of TrueHD and DTS-HD MA, the blu-ray player "profile" column, the ethernet port column, and the video decoder column. For folks looking to use this player for standard DVDs as well, that last would be most relevant.


This info is changing so it can be a challenge to keep up. For example, Sony committed at CES that the PS3 will achieve profile 2.0 compatibility via a firmware upgrade "real soon now". But it is still shown in the list as profile 1.1. Meanwhile other products not even shipping yet are shown as 2.0.


Keep in mind that other issues, such as player speed (including startup speed), and support for formats like SACD might be important to you as well. Not to mention the bugs people are finding in these bleeding edge products.


--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12969606
> 
> 
> For folks (like me) trying to get a handle on the confusing state of the Blu-Ray player world for use with the D2 or AVM-50, I found the following link useful:
> 
> http://www.idoblu.co.uk/page2%20Blu-ray%20Players.html
> 
> 
> Key columns are the blue boxes for onboard decoding of TrueHD and DTS-HD MA, the blu-ray player "profile" column, the ethernet port column, and the video decoder column. For folks looking to use this player for standard DVDs as well, that last would be most relevant.
> 
> 
> This info is changing so it can be a challenge to keep up. For example, Sony committed at CES that the PS3 will achieve profile 2.0 compatibility via a firmware upgrade "real soon now". But it is still shown in the list as profile 1.1. Meanwhile other products not even shipping yet are shown as 2.0.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob


Personally, I was tired of waiting and got a PS3 for Christmas. Well, it was a no brainer for me as it was a gift.







If I were buying today, the upcoming Panasonic looks promising, but we won't know if it will do internal decoding of DTS-HD MA "properly" until released.


The promise of Sony to make the PS3 Profile 2.0 is fine, but that doesn't add DTS-HD MA decoding.







So, we're still waiting on that one. So far, though, it seems to be relatively painless, controlled with the Schmartz IR adapter and my Harmony 880 remote, even my wife and kids use it without problems.


I will add... when the Panasonic ships, if it does internal DTS-HD MA decoding properly, I'm certainly open to moving the PS3 to the gameroom and putting the Panasonic in my rack.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12969731
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob
> 
> 
> Personally, I was tired of waiting and got a PS3 for Christmas. Well, it was a no brainer for me as it was a gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I were buying today, the upcoming Panasonic looks promising, but we won't know if it will do internal decoding of DTS-HD MA "properly" until released.
> 
> 
> The promise of Sony to make the PS3 Profile 2.0 is fine, but that doesn't add DTS-HD MA decoding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, we're still waiting on that one. So far, though, it seems to be relatively painless, controlled with the Schmartz IR adapter and my Harmony 880 remote, even my wife and kids use it without problems.
> 
> 
> I will add... when the Panasonic ships, if it does internal DTS-HD MA decoding properly, I'm certainly open to moving the PS3 to the gameroom and putting the Panasonic in my rack.



Tim, assuming you're talking about the Panasonic "50", I think the question regarding this player is whether it will have the -5db LFE bug that the 10 & 30 have, not whether it will decode DTS-MA properly.


Also, I someone who's knowledge I respect has said that current PS3s will not be able to decode DTS-MA, ever.


----------



## bluemark81

Repost: If you were to feed the AVM50/D2 a 24 fps sigal, but had the output of the Anthem set at 60 fps, will the Anthem do the 3:2 pulldown? Or should this only be done in either the source or the TV?


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12971764
> 
> 
> Repost: If you were to feed the AVM50/D2 a 24 fps sigal, but had the output of the Anthem set at 60 fps, will the Anthem do the 3:2 pulldown? Or should this only be done in either the source or the TV?



I feed my D2 a 24fps signal from my PS3 (forced) and output 60fps to my projector (Epson Home Cinema 1080P). Everything works great.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes 24fps to 60fps conversion should work just fine in Anthem software versions V1.12 or later.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12971984
> 
> 
> Yes 24fps to 60fps conversion should work just fine in Anthem software versions V1.12 or later.
> 
> --Bob



I am still running 1.11e. I notice Anthems site is still showing 1.11 also. I suspect 1.12 is available for limited use only since it is not on the web yet?


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *placidman* /forum/post/12965342
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I installed the 1.29j beta on Friday. I powered everything up and my AVM-50 would not handshake/synch with my projector. I recycled power on the AVM-50 twice with no luck.
> 
> 
> I re-installed the update again and this time it synched no problem. The following day I powered everything up and same thing. I cycled power on the AVM-50 and it synched.
> 
> 
> Sunday it worked fine. Yesterday morning it would not synch so again I cycled power on the unit and it synched up. Last night it worked fine.
> 
> 
> This morning I powered everything up and no synch. I cycled power 3 times on the unit and nothing. I powered it off and disconnected power and still nothing.
> 
> 
> I re-installed 1.21d and it worked fine.
> 
> 
> I had no issues with 1.21d. I can remember having a problem like this intermittently prior to 1.11 (I believe) but it was only every now and then.
> 
> 
> This will not do.
> 
> 
> I will give Nick a call today.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



FYI, I posted prior about my problems with 1.29j as well (see post # 10884). Problems are similar to what you observed (althought worse after one install attempt). I tried again with 1.29j last night (multiple attempts at loading)... loaded okay each time but was only able to get audio/video/osd output once after power up... the next time the D2 was powered up... nothing. Every other load attempt never yielded audio/video/osd output regardless of how many times I power cycled (or what I power cycled... D2, pj, tv, source device, etc).


Restored 1.21d and everything is back to where it was before so, at least for me, 1.29j does not like my D2










I've emailed Nick my findings.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/12973091
> 
> 
> I am still running 1.11e. I notice Anthems site is still showing 1.11 also. I suspect 1.12 is available for limited use only since it is not on the web yet?



1.12, (also labeled 1.2 in new units where it was factory installed -- think of it as 1.20) was never put on the Anthem web site.


If you go to them now for software they will likely either get you 1.21d or 1.29j (the latest version).


I don't recall exactly when 24fps input first became a good idea. It may have been resolved by the 1.11e version you already have installed.


EDIT: Corrected latest version # to 1.29j

--Bob


----------



## scottshd

Bob and Jim thanks for your response and help. Loaded firmware 1.29j and everything seems to be working fine. I used a keyspan usb to serial adapter with no problems this was my first firmware update was a little nervous but it was a piece of cake and I"m probably not the sharpest tool in the shed. scott


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Cool! Glad it's working for you now!

--Bob


----------



## Kabillyhop

Its been a long time since I frequented the processor forum and I just discovered this 11,000 post thread today. Wow, you guys have been busy!


I am a very satisfied AVM20 owner and just found out that there is an upgrade available to bring it to AVM50 functionality. I have a couple of questions for you all if you don't mind. I'm thinking the answers are buried in this thread, but I don't think I'm creative enough with the search tool to dig them all out.


1. The specs seem to indicate that 1080p24 is not supported. Will the upgraded "AVM20-HD" pass through an unaltered 1080p24 signal to the display? Is there a future upgrade planned to include 1080p/24 support?


2. Does this upgrade make the AVM20 the full equivalent of an AVM50?


3. What if any warranty does the upgraded unit get?


4. Can anyone who has already had their AVM20 upgraded comment on their impressions? Are you satisfied with the new unit? Are you glad you got it? Would you recommend it to others?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't know what Anthem is offering on warranty for the upgrade.


The upgrade apparently does turn the AVM-20 into the equivalent of an AVM-50, including, I believe, a power supply change out. From a feature point of view it will definitely be the same as an AVM-50.


HDMI input is always processed in the D2 and AVM-50, so there is no such thing as unprocessed pass-through of HDMI. That said, 1080p/24 in to 1080p/24 out or to 1080p/60 out (either one) works fine in the current software.


What people are waiting on is 480i/60 or 1080i/60 input to 1080p/24 output conversion when viewing film-based content (e.g. standard DVD movies or movies on SD or HD TV channels). That is not working right yet.


We expect Anthem to tackle that after they ship the Room EQ upgrade for the D2s and D1s (any day now).


Note that the Room EQ upgrade is not available for the AVM-50. So if you are thinking of possibly selling your 20 and buying a new 50 or D2, that would be one reason to lean towards the D2.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12974688
> 
> 
> What people are waiting on is 480i/60 or 1080i/60 input to 1080p/24 output conversion when viewing film-based content (e.g. standard DVD movies or movies on SD or HD TV channels). That is not working right yet.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

What is the benefit one gets for output conversion to 1080p/24 from 480i/60 or 1080i/60 compared with output of 1080p/60? I mean does one get to see a better quality image? I have always thought that the higher the refresh rate, the smoother the image.


My apologies if this is a silly question.

Ben


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/12973289
> 
> 
> FYI, I posted prior about my problems with 1.29j as well (see post # 10884). Problems are similar to what you observed (althought worse after one install attempt). I tried again with 1.29j last night (multiple attempts at loading)... loaded okay each time but was only able to get audio/video/osd output once after power up... the next time the D2 was powered up... nothing. Every other load attempt never yielded audio/video/osd output regardless of how many times I power cycled (or what I power cycled... D2, pj, tv, source device, etc).
> 
> 
> Restored 1.21d and everything is back to where it was before so, at least for me, 1.29j does not like my D2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've emailed Nick my findings.




Greetings,


I spoke with him yesterday as well. I am not sure what the common factor might be but I provided him with my findings.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12975319
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> What is the benefit one gets for output conversion to 1080p/24 from 480i/60 or 1080i/60 compared with output of 1080p/60? I mean does one get to see a better quality image? I have always thought that the higher the refresh rate, the smoother the image.
> 
> 
> My apologies if this is a silly question.
> 
> Ben



It's not a silly question. "Film-based" content is originally recorded at 24fps due to historic reasons related to the mechanical difficulties of advancing moving picture film through the camera. Television (in markets like the US) displays images at 30fps (two interlaced half-frames per image, so 60 interlaced half-frames per second), which is doubled to 60fps in modern TVs by dint of simply displaying each frame twice. The TV rate is derived from 60Hz wall power which was the simplest way for them to drive the TV electronics back in the early days of TV.


The problem is that 24 doesn't go into 30 (or 60) smoothly. So what happens is that film-based content is modified for display on TV. What they do is divide it up into interlaced half-frames (the film camera of course records whole frames, not interlaced frames, to begin with), and then REPEAT a selected set of those half-frames in a regular cadence to produce the extra half-frames they need to get up to 60 half-frames per second. This is the "telecine" process -- adjusting cinematic content for TV broadcast.


This means that some of those half-frames (called "fields") are actually on screen longer than the ones next to them.


The result is a slight jerkiness in what should be smoothly moving imagery. This effect is called "cadence judder" since it is a juddering of the image caused by the field repeat cadence. There are other types of judder as well -- the most important being "motion judder" where an object moves across the screen at a speed faster than can be smoothly represented by a mere 24 frames per second. So the eye sees it as jumping from spot to spot instead of smoothly moving. This will happen when the camera pans rapidly for example when there are distinct objects in view that catch the eye. Movie makers are well aware of this and do things like panning more slowly or blurring the focus a bit to avoid distracting the viewers with this effect. But there is nothing they can do about "cadence judder".


And note that cadence judder is only relevant to TV viewing. You would never see it in a movie theater -- although motion judder, if present, would be seen there.


But what makes this all work is that the brain is very good at erasing cadence judder from what it actually sees! In fact you have been seeing cadence judder all your TV viewing life. Every time you watch a standard DVD movie or a movie on an SD or HD TV channel you are seeing cadence judder. Or rather, you are "not seeing" it. What most people are ACTUALLY seeing when they THINK they are seeing cadence judder is some other effect -- most commonly motion judder.


Most people don't see cadence judder, even when it is pointed out to them, unless there is a "judder free" setup side by side for comparison. But if you have a sharp enough eye, you can see cadence judder pretty easily by just watching the scrolling credits at the end of any televised movie. Nevertheless, cadence judder is a real effect, and EVERYONE sees a "judder free" setup as having smoother motion when it is displayed side by side with a "normal" setup.


So what's a judder-free setup? Well if you send the original 24fps content to a TV that is *ALSO* capable of displaying that at a refresh rate which is a multiple of 24fps (most commonly 48 or 72) then there is no cadence judder! Please note that MOST TVs out there right now CAN NOT DO THIS! Even if they accept 1080p/24 as a valid input signal, they actually display all video at a 60 field or frame per second rate. And so sending them 24 fps video doesn't change anything and you might as well stick with the simpler, traditional TV video rates and be happy that your brain is so good at "not seeing" cadence judder.


Well Blu-Ray and HD-DVD players provide a source of 24fps video for movie viewing. But what of standard TV movies -- standard DVD or movies broadcast on SD or HD channels? Well for those, it is technically possible to reconstruct the original 24fps movie content from the 480i or 1080i TV signal. To do that requires that the processor detect the repeat cadence and remove the repeated fields. However this is tricky because all sorts of things (film edits or introduction of video rate scenes in an otherwise film rate movie) can cause the cadence to skip and restart.


So this is what Anthem still has to work on -- the ability of the D2 to latch onto that cadence and recover rapidly from skips in the cadence so that the RIGHT fields are removed and what is left is the original 24 fps film based content to send out to an appropriate TV.


This is related to, but distinct from, the "reverse telecine" process that the Anthem already does correctly, which is involved in converting a field based repeat cadence into a full frame based repeat cadence (at the higher, 60Hz rate) for better imagery on a progressive display (i.e., one that displays full frames at a time instead of interlacing half-frames).


Also note that you do NOT want to send "video-based" content -- normal TV originally captured at 30fps -- to ANY TV at 24fps. There is no clean way to convert 30fps imagery to 24fps, and any attempt to do so will result in jerky imaging. This means that, whether automatically or manually, your judder-free setup needs to be switched to 30 (or 60) fps output when viewing video-based content. The Anthem has a "frame lock" feature that is an attempt to do this automatically. But the handshake delays in HDMI make this kind of painful as you lose imagery for a couple seconds when the frame rate changes. So a manual change (using the set of Video Output configurations) is your best bet.


Finally, the 24fps and 30fps numbers I've given here are actually a lie. For technical reasons related to how a broadcast TV signal is deconstructed into its component parts upon reception the true broadcast rate for TV in NTSC markets is 29.97fps. This is a tiny slowdown (about 1 less frame every 33 seconds) so the eye does not see it. But it means that, as part of the telecine process, films are ALSO slowed down that tiny percentage before the field repeat cadence is applied. And this is why you will see people talking about video rates that are a little below either 30 or 24 when discussing this stuff. And getting this right is a big deal when trying to make sure TV's can actually lock onto the signal coming from any video source.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12976841
> 
> 
> It's not a silly question........
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. It looks a complicated business, but I think I've got it. Appreciate very much your patience.

Yea, I did notice the fps fractions in the Info of the Picture Menu.


Ben


----------



## TREVLAN

Hi aagin, it's been awhile. really liking the avm50.

I have a question for you folks with 7.1


I am using the ps3 as my bluray player currently running a 5.1 channel system. I know allot of new movies are using 7.1 discret and I do know that the ps3 will decode the 7.1

I went in to talk about pricing on adding 2 rear speakers and my sales rep mentioned that the avm50 might not be able to produce the 7.1? it would be a matrix due to the PS3 being HDMI , he said for the 7.1 to work it needs to be in the 6 channel mode on the anthem via RCA cables, which is how my denon 3910 SACD-DVDa player is hooked up.

So is this info correct and is there now way to get true-hd or PCM 7.1 discretly sent to the AVM50?

I hope I am explaing myself correctly and again sorry for my horrible typing skills.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/12982137
> 
> 
> Hi aagin, it's been awhile. really liking the avm50.
> 
> I have a question for you folks with 7.1
> 
> 
> I am using the ps3 as my bluray player currently running a 5.1 channel system. I know allot of new movies are using 7.1 discret and I do know that the ps3 will decode the 7.1
> 
> I went in to talk about pricing on adding 2 rear speakers and my sales rep mentioned that the avm50 might not be able to produce the 7.1? it would be a matrix due to the PS3 being HDMI , he said for the 7.1 to work it needs to be in the 6 channel mode on the anthem via RCA cables, which is how my denon 3910 SACD-DVDa player is hooked up.
> 
> So is this info correct and is there now way to get true-hd or PCM 7.1 discretly sent to the AVM50?
> 
> I hope I am explaing myself correctly and again sorry for my horrible typing skills.



There's no way getting DISCRETE 7.1 from the PS3 via HDMI. The PS3 even automatically detects that the AVM50 is limited to 5.1 channels. But then again, with the superb post processing by the AVM50, you can get the next best thing. i.e. having the 6 and 7th channel processed by the unit.


Alvin


----------



## dweltman

Quick question on the 1.29 update. The file on tech.anthemav.com does not include a setup editor file. If I use the Setup Editor from 1.11, which is on the main D2 update page, will it work? If not, the alternative is to keep a record and manually redo the setup?


----------



## barhoram

You can save your settings in the anthem itself by saving "user settings". Then, Reload the factory defaults, upgrade, and then load your saved settings. Everything should be the way it was before the upgrade.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Hang on, we already had a report here that the install kit for 1.29j *DID* include an updated Setup Editor. Did they remove it?


The Setup Editor for V1.11 is not useable once you have upgraded to 1.21 or beyond.

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

if thats true ABC , then I wont even bother wasting my time adding 2 more channels...Man I wish I knew all this before I bought the AVM50. now dont get me wrong i really am happy with it. but I'm big on upgrading and going with the "new" in thing. like bluray 7.1 true-HD DTS-MAHD and all that good stuff. but it really seems the AVM50/d2 as good as they are, they still are limited in one way or another. And to think it was the avm50 or the new denons/onkyo. Thanks for the reply ABC



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/12982137
> 
> 
> Hi aagin, it's been awhile. really liking the avm50.
> 
> I have a question for you folks with 7.1
> 
> 
> I am using the ps3 as my bluray player currently running a 5.1 channel system. I know allot of new movies are using 7.1 discret and I do know that the ps3 will decode the 7.1
> 
> I went in to talk about pricing on adding 2 rear speakers and my sales rep mentioned that the avm50 might not be able to produce the 7.1? it would be a matrix due to the PS3 being HDMI , he said for the 7.1 to work it needs to be in the 6 channel mode on the anthem via RCA cables, which is how my denon 3910 SACD-DVDa player is hooked up.
> 
> So is this info correct and is there now way to get true-hd or PCM 7.1 discretly sent to the AVM50?
> 
> I hope I am explaing myself correctly and again sorry for my horrible typing skills.


----------



## bcljones

My SA 3250HD cable box died this week and the cable company replaced it with an SA 8300HD, which includes an HDMI output. I've tried to use the HDMI output, but I only get a blue screen on my projector, which is connected to the D2 ouputting 720p over component. I'm guessing the blue screen that I get is due to HDCP, but if I set the D2 up to use the component input from the SA 8300HD (just like it was on the SA 3250HD), I get HD signals all the way through the system (720p and 1081i channels). Does this make sense?


This is the note that is in the SA 8300HD manual from my cable company:


Important: Do not connect the HDMI (DVI) output to a HDTV that does not support High-Definition Copy Protection (HDCP). If you connect the HDMI (DVI) output cable to a HDTV that does not support HDCP, you will not be able to see any video output. A message will be displayed instructing you to disconnect the HDMI connection and watch video output through the PrPbY component connectors.


I don't get a message telling me to watch through the PrPbY connectors, or maybe I just can't see it due to the blue screen.


Buddy


----------



## dweltman

1.29j did not come with setup editor, just video settings. I just downloaded it


----------



## bcljones

I just received my AVM 20-HD back from Anthem yesterday and have not begun hooking it back up yet. One thing that I did find out today was that the upgrade does not come with a new remote. I sent a note to Anthem and they replied that I could get one with the additional codes for $129. Have any others out there that have done this same upgrade found that they need the upgraded remote?


Buddy


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/12984629
> 
> 
> I just received my AVM 20-HD back from Anthem yesterday and have not begun hooking it back up yet. One thing that I did find out today was that the upgrade does not come with a new remote. I sent a note to Anthem and they replied that I could get one with the additional codes for $129. Have any others out there that have done this same upgrade found that they need the upgraded remote?
> 
> 
> Buddy



My D1-HD upgrade didn't include any extra or new remotes. Not sure if the remote on the AVM-20 is the same as the d1, but my remote works just fine for all the HD functions. (it's the same as a D2 remote)


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/12982137
> 
> 
> Hi aagin, it's been awhile. really liking the avm50.
> 
> I have a question for you folks with 7.1
> 
> 
> I am using the ps3 as my bluray player currently running a 5.1 channel system. I know allot of new movies are using 7.1 discret and I do know that the ps3 will decode the 7.1
> 
> I went in to talk about pricing on adding 2 rear speakers and my sales rep mentioned that the avm50 might not be able to produce the 7.1? it would be a matrix due to the PS3 being HDMI , he said for the 7.1 to work it needs to be in the 6 channel mode on the anthem via RCA cables, which is how my denon 3910 SACD-DVDa player is hooked up.
> 
> So is this info correct and is there now way to get true-hd or PCM 7.1 discretly sent to the AVM50?
> 
> I hope I am explaing myself correctly and again sorry for my horrible typing skills.



None of the Anthems can take 7.1 PCM in via HDMI - only 5.1 But all of them can take 5.1 and process it with THX Ultra 2 or Dolby Pro IIX to 7.1 sound. And most people here would argue that you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference of a 5.1 post-processed to 7.1 versus a native 7.1 signal.


----------



## etrexler

Has anyone setup the Crestron TPMC-8X to work with the Anthem D2? My installers are coming over in two weeks and I'm not sure which features / functions are required, which are nice to have, and which should be left off. I'm assuming that most people are going RS-232, not IR.


Any thoughts, lessons learned, etc...?


Thanks,


Eric


----------



## bcljones

Comparing my D2 and AVM 20 remotes shows that there is almost no difference between the two externally. The D2 remote uses the term "SSP" in a couple of places where the AVM 20 says "AVM". The note from Anthem said:


There are no new remotes issued with the upgrade, your existing remote will work just fine. The new remote with increased memory and library codes is available at a cost of $129.00.


Buddy


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12984353
> 
> 
> Hang on, we already had a report here that the install kit for 1.29j *DID* include an updated Setup Editor. Did they remove it?
> 
> 
> The Setup Editor for V1.11 is not useable once you have upgraded to 1.21 or beyond.
> 
> --Bob



I have SETUP editor 1.29e which came with FW 1.29j


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/12984418
> 
> 
> if thats true ABC , then I wont even bother wasting my time adding 2 more channels...Man I wish I knew all this before I bought the AVM50. now dont get me wrong i really am happy with it. but I'm big on upgrading and going with the "new" in thing. like bluray 7.1 true-HD DTS-MAHD and all that good stuff. but it really seems the AVM50/d2 as good as they are, they still are limited in one way or another. And to think it was the avm50 or the new denons/onkyo. Thanks for the reply ABC



It's not like the PS3 is cutting edge either. As drhankz pointed out in an earlier post see: http://www.engadgethd.com/2008/01/02...lu-ray-player/


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12985096
> 
> 
> I have SETUP editor 1.29e which came with FW 1.29j



Yes that's the last working setup editor for fw 1.29j. New one shouldn't be far off.


BTW, new D2 purchases are now being shipped with room eq. ARC-1.


Upgrades are around the corner so I'm told.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/12985015
> 
> 
> None of the Anthems can take 7.1 PCM in via HDMI - only 5.1 But all of them can take 5.1 and process it with THX Ultra 2 or Dolby Pro IIX to 7.1 sound. And most people here would argue that you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference of a 5.1 post-processed to 7.1 versus a native 7.1 signal.



I agree wholeheartedly!


IMO, people should be more concerned with accurate sound and dealing with room resonances rather than adding rear speakers.


----------



## TREVLAN

JIM, in the link you have I got this

"At this point, the best option is the Panasonic DMP-BD30 and a newer HDMI 1.3a A/V receiver with all the decoders built in"

Honestly though, OK it doesn't do DTS MAHD but it does do PCM/TRUEHD doesn't bitstream but does that matter if its in the player or the receiver? I dont think so.

But there you go this artical says it all. Go out buy a new player and new 1.3 receiver to get the full benifits. now doesn't that just suck ok so fine I don't mind upgrading my player. I'm looking at the panny50 when it comes out. But now I must get rid of my avm50 because it's not 1.3 and not 7.1? Well yes if I was true-HD and DTS-MAHD and want 7.1 discrete. As you said the avm50/d2 are very good at matrixing the 7.1 but if the player sends out true 7.1 why would you want to matrix it?

Just a thought, I'm not expert but it just doesn't sound right..

I'm at a lost here.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12985096
> 
> 
> I have SETUP editor 1.29e which came with FW 1.29j



Yes, that's what I expected. But I think we had two posters today say that the V1.29j install kit available for download today does *NOT* include a Setup Editor. So I was wondering if Anthem pulled it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/12985389
> 
> 
> Yes that's the last working setup editor for fw 1.29j. New one shouldn't be far off.
> 
> 
> BTW, new D2 purchases are now being shipped with room eq. ARC-1.
> 
> 
> Upgrades are around the corner so I'm told.



Is Anthem taking orders yet for ARC-1 upgrades? Have they given you a final price for the upgrade?


Also, are these new D2's shipping with V1.29j installed or is there a newer version shipping with those?

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12985591
> 
> 
> Is Anthem taking orders yet for ARC-1 upgrades? Have they given you a final price for the upgrade?
> 
> 
> Also, are these new D2's shipping with V1.29j installed or is there a newer version shipping with those?
> 
> --Bob



No orders on the upgrade yet and no final price. If this changes I'll post it here.


I haven't ordered any new D2s yet but I vaguely remember something like V1.3 but I don't think there are any differences. At least none that I was told about.


----------



## glennQNYC

   


glennQ


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *glennQNYC* /forum/post/12985958
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glennQ



...drool... I need one!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12985564
> 
> 
> Yes, that's what I expected. But I think we had two posters today say that the V1.29j install kit available for download today does *NOT* include a Setup Editor. So I was wondering if Anthem pulled it.
> 
> --Bob



I suspect they got the FW e-mailed to them from someone

OTHER than Anthem and therefore they are MISSING the

whole toolkit. I double checked last night when I posted

to make sure it was still on the hidden Anthem website,

and it is.


----------



## barhoram

Are you talking about the setup editor or the Live viedo settings program? If I recall, the setup editor (lets you save your configuration to a pc) is not included, but the Live Video Settings program (1.20) is with the latest firmware zip file.


----------



## jclem

My AVM50 is 7 months old and has FW 1.2. I now see that 1.21 and 1.29j are out there, but that there seem to be some issues with 1.29j. Should I bother updating now? What would I gain? And what about the "lack of setup editor" issue? Does that mean that if I update, I have to run my setup all over again? Sorry, for all the "noob" questions, but that's what I am. I appreciate any help. thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12919001
> 
> 
> In the archive is LiveVideoSettingsEditor v1.20.exe (appears to be the same as in previous 1.21 releases) and Setup Editor v1.29e.exe.



Barhoram,

See the quote above. The V1.29j install kit should include BOTH a Live Video Settings Editor program AND a Setup Editor program in addition to the installer programs (for D2 and AVM-50) themselves.


The Setup Editor is the one you use for saving the Anthem configuration to a PC file in case you need to restore it after the firmware install.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/12988370
> 
> 
> My AVM50 is 7 months old and has FW 1.2. I now see that 1.21 and 1.29j are out there, but that there seem to be some issues with 1.29j. Should I bother updating now? What would I gain? And what about the "lack of setup editor" issue? Does that mean that if I update, I have to run my setup all over again? Sorry, for all the "noob" questions, but that's what I am. I appreciate any help. thanks



I'd suggest you wait a bit to see if Anthem finalizes a V1.3 version as part of the release of the ARC-1 Room EQ stuff.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

Thanks Bob, I will wait it out and let the dust settle.


----------



## Roomraider

I got a huge scare yesterday after installing v.129.j

I failed to disconnect all HDMI devices as the instructions recommend.

AVM-50 to Sony 60" XBR2 Via HDMI, after the install I lost all digital tuner capability/no signal . Analog tuner functioned normally but no digital stations were available via comcast cable direct to Sony or off Air antenna.

After the initial panic; I unplugged the power cord to the Sony for 5 minutes and the digital tuner began working again.

Has anyone heard of such an effect after an upgrade with any version of Anthem firmware??????


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/12988681
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I will wait it out and let the dust settle.



Bob's suggestion is probably wise. if you aren't having any issues that are fixed by the update and you don't have a NEED to be a pioneer (like I do) then you're best to wait for a final release.


I finally got around to checking my sparkles scare I talk about after first upgrading to 1.29j. I recovered the deleted show on my TiVo HD and watched it again. The sparkles are there. I haven't seen the sparkels anywhere else (and I've been looking HARD). So, it was definitely in the source and nothing to worry about.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/12988688
> 
> 
> I got a huge scare yesterday after installing v.129.j
> 
> I failed to disconnect all HDMI devices as the instructions recommend.
> 
> AVM-50 to Sony 60" XBR2 Via HDMI, after the install I lost all digital tuner capability/no signal . Analog tuner functioned normally but no digital stations were available via comcast cable direct to Sony or off Air antenna.
> 
> After the initial panic; I unplugged the power cord to the Sony for 5 minutes and the digital tuner began working again.
> 
> Has anyone heard of such an effect after an upgrade with any version of Anthem firmware??????



No reports of anything like that here.


I'm not sure what the Anthem might present on its HDMI output *DURING* a firmware install, but it is possible it caused a portion of the Sony to get confused. The stuff inside the Sony is like a computer and sometimes computers crash. I'm glad that the power cycle of the Sony seems to have fixed things.


I presume your Anthem firmware install completed without error messages, correct? If so, then you are good to go despite having had HDMI connections in place.

--Bob


----------



## ASW

I just upgraded to 1.29j a few days ago and it seems to be working fine. I did notice that it was much more sensitive to exactly following the upgrade instructions than prior FW upgrades (i.e., for the first time in many upgrades I got failed uploads until I power cycled the D2 by turning off the main power switch before connecting the serial cable). After I stuck to the instructions, all seemed to go well with no video output problems at all.


Also, in the latest D2/AVM50 link, I didn't see a live video settings editor that will work with 1.29J - maybe it is located in the ARC beta section.


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12988467
> 
> 
> Barhoram,
> 
> See the quote above. The V1.29j install kit should include BOTH a Live Video Settings Editor program AND a Setup Editor program in addition to the installer programs (for D2 and AVM-50) themselves.
> 
> 
> The Setup Editor is the one you use for saving the Anthem configuration to a PC file in case you need to restore it after the firmware install.
> 
> --Bob



I downloaded the file from the hidden anthem site, and the zip file (link1) does not contain Setup Editor that I can see. There are 8 files. Video Timings.pdf, rs-232 codes, D2 firmware, AVM50 firmware, LiveVideoSettings editor, and 3 readme's. Wierd.


Could someone email me the setup editore v1.2? vedderm35 at yahoo.com?


Thanks.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12989286
> 
> 
> I downloaded the file from the hidden anthem site, and the zip file (link1) does not contain Setup Editor that I can see. There are 8 files. Video Timings.pdf, rs-232 codes, D2 firmware, AVM50 firmware, LiveVideoSettings editor, and 3 readme's. Wierd.
> 
> 
> Could someone email me the setup editore v1.2? vedderm35 at yahoo.com?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Weird. What are the 3 readme files? I have Read Me First.txt, RS232 Updates.txt. My 8th file is the Setup Editor. I'll email it to you.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12989322
> 
> 
> Weird. What are the 3 readme files? I have Read Me First.txt, RS232 Updates.txt. My 8th file is the Setup Editor. I'll email it to you.


*barhoram* is correct - SOMETHING has CHANGED.


See the two pictures below.


The Original Link 1 Download and the One I just did.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12989437
> 
> *barhoram* is correct - SOMETHING has CHANGED.
> 
> 
> See the two pictures below.
> 
> 
> The Original Link 1 Download and the One I just did.



Thanks. So, what's in the "Read Me - Settings Editors.txt" file? Sure, I could download the whole thing again... but this is so much more fun.


----------



## zombyw00f

I just ordered a D2, and my dealer said it would take 2-3 weeks. Will it come with the ARC-1?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12989460
> 
> 
> Thanks. So, what's in the "Read Me - Settings Editors.txt" file? Sure, I could download the whole thing again... but this is so much more fun.



LIVE VIDEO SETTINGS EDITOR


This application allows you to control the video processor from a PC. The changes occur in the processor at the same time that settings on the PC are changed.


It also allows video processor settings to be saved to and loaded from a PC (.alv extension).


Etc. Etc. Etc.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12989536
> 
> 
> LIVE VIDEO SETTINGS EDITOR
> 
> 
> This application allows you to control the video processor from a PC. The changes occur in the processor at the same time that settings on the PC are changed.
> 
> 
> It also allows video processor settings to be saved to and loaded from a PC (.alv extension).
> 
> 
> Etc. Etc. Etc.










that's pretty useless. Oh, well. Guess we wait and see... Thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/12989286
> 
> 
> I downloaded the file from the hidden anthem site, and the zip file (link1) does not contain Setup Editor that I can see. There are 8 files. Video Timings.pdf, rs-232 codes, D2 firmware, AVM50 firmware, LiveVideoSettings editor, and 3 readme's. Wierd.
> 
> 
> Could someone email me the setup editore v1.2? vedderm35 at yahoo.com?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I would contact NICK at Anthem and ask him why

the setup editor has been removed.


----------



## mr_fitz

I am running v1.2 on my D2 and the constant cracks and pops through my speakers when watching a BD on my ps3 is really starting to become bothersome. Does the new firmware address this issue as I think someone had mentioned it was an issue with accepting LPCM from the PS3?


What else does version V1.29j offer?


Thanks


John


I downloaded the latest from Anthem support and the readme file states V1.3 but the actual installer software says V1.29j. Should I bother with 1.29j or does the readme file show that there will be a V1.3?


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zombyw00f* /forum/post/12989489
> 
> 
> I just ordered a D2, and my dealer said it would take 2-3 weeks. Will it come with the ARC-1?



Current D2's are shipping with ARC. Of course you should confirm with your dealer.


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12989963
> 
> 
> I am running v1.2 on my D2 and the constant cracks and pops through my speakers when watching a BD on my ps3 is really starting to become bothersome. Does the new firmware address this issue as I think someone had mentioned it was an issue with accepting LPCM from the PS3?
> 
> 
> What else does version V1.29j offer?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> I downloaded the latest from Anthem support and the readme file states V1.3 but the actual installer software says V1.29j. Should I bother with 1.29j or does the readme file show that there will be a V1.3?



John...I have the exact set-up and it cracks and pops as well in my rear surround speakers. Its very annoying.


When I watch standard dvds on my other dvd player it doesn't do it. It only happens with blu ray on my PS3.


I in interested in also finding a fix for this if anyone can help.


Thanks


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/12989653
> 
> 
> I would contact NICK at Anthem and ask him why
> 
> the setup editor has been removed.



The setup editor has been removed because ver 1.30 is not ready. Firmware update for ver 1.30 includes -


1. (Statement D2 only) Added room correction - enabling this feature requires ARC-1 microphone kit.


2. More HDMI, HDCP, and Macrovision related changes to make largest possible number of sources compatible.


3. Number of video-out configurations is increased to four.


4. The video muted background color can now be set independently of the setup menu background color. Recommended: Set video mute to gray to prevent blue screen when switching input and/or resolution changes from native-output cable box.


5. Fixed crackling problem exhibited in some units when multichannel PCM input was played.


6. 2-line display shows input resolution in upper line and volume in lower line.


7. Menus 6 and 7 show renamed source names beside factory source names.


8. Enabled HDMI audio-in when no HDMI display is connected.


9. Fixed Component2 passthrough mode.


10. Improvements to installer stability with various PC and hardware combinations.


Anytime now, I think update ver 1.30 will be posted in place of ver 1.29j.


Ben


----------



## Ian_Currie

According to my dealer, the ARC mic will not be available for at least a month or so. It sounds like they are in short supply and being used for new D2s.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/12991154
> 
> 
> The setup editor has been removed because ver 1.30 is not ready. Firmware update for ver 1.30 includes -
> 
> 
> 1. (Statement D2 only) Added room correction - enabling this feature requires ARC-1 microphone kit.
> 
> 
> 2. More HDMI, HDCP, and Macrovision related changes to make largest possible number of sources compatible.
> 
> 
> 3. Number of video-out configurations is increased to four.
> 
> 
> 4. The video muted background color can now be set independently of the setup menu background color. Recommended: Set video mute to gray to prevent blue screen when switching input and/or resolution changes from native-output cable box.
> 
> 
> 5. Fixed crackling problem exhibited in some units when multichannel PCM input was played.
> 
> 
> 6. 2-line display shows input resolution in upper line and volume in lower line.
> 
> 
> 7. Menus 6 and 7 show renamed source names beside factory source names.
> 
> 
> 8. Enabled HDMI audio-in when no HDMI display is connected.
> 
> 
> 9. Fixed Component2 passthrough mode.
> 
> 
> 10. Improvements to installer stability with various PC and hardware combinations.
> 
> 
> Anytime now, I think update ver 1.30 will be posted in place of ver 1.29j.
> 
> 
> Ben



This is encouraging. This is the combination of the most important fixes that have been applied in the various test versions since the first V1.12 (AKA V1.2). Plus, of course, the ability to enable the ARC-1 stuff for the D2. I hope they make this a general release on the public web site along with the matching manual.


Folks, the pulled Setup Editor V1.29e may have been pulled because it is dangerous to use with the V1.29j software. Until we hear otherwise, I would recommend you NOT USE IT.

--Bob


----------



## Roomraider

Thanks Bob,

As you assumed, the Anthem update installed without a hitch, My girlfriend moved in with me a few months ago and she's just now learning to 1/2 way operate the AVM-50. I must admit though; my 1rst reaction was to blame her, then toss her out! Good thing for her I've always followed your advise on troubleshooting procedures. Again I thank you and Liza thanks you even more. hehehehe


----------



## Tim Winders

Oh! I like these updates... some I don't recognize from 1.29j.


5. Fixed crackling! (although, I didn't have this problem)

6. 2 line display! Wait, this sounds familiar. Thought it was already that way? Hmmm... will have to check. But, I like it!

8. Enable HDMI audio-in. Wu hoo!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The "enabled audio in for HDMI" item means, I believe, that they fixed HDMI Repeater = NO to no longer function as if you had selected YES. This was done a few test releases ago. Repeater=NO was working fine and was broken in one of the V1.12 series releases and fixed again shortly afterwards. And if you have the wrong sources devices, that bug will affect other things as well that should have been fixable simply by setting Repeater=NO.


The "fixed crackling" needs to come with a caveat. Apparently there are two distinct causes for this, one of which is fixable in software and one which requires a return to the factory to replace a part. I don't know the range of build dates that might fall into the "need to replace a part" category, but obviously the first thing to try is to see if the software solution fixes it for any given Anthem unit.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12991749
> 
> 
> The "fixed crackling" needs to come with a caveat. Apparently there are two distinct causes for this, one of which is fixable in software and one which requires a return to the factory to replace a part. I don't know the range of build dates that might fall into the "need to replace a part" category, but obviously the first thing to try is to see if the software solution fixes it for any given Anthem unit.
> 
> --Bob



I only get crackling from one source - TiVo, via optical input.


I think the finger needs to point at Tivo. And others have said

PS3 - but my PS3 is in another theater, not on my D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DRHANKZ,

Did you do your upgrade to V1.29j yet?


If so, any comments?

--Bob


----------



## glennQNYC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zombyw00f* /forum/post/12989489
> 
> 
> I just ordered a D2, and my dealer said it would take 2-3 weeks. Will it come with the ARC-1?



Yes it should.


glennQ


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12991926
> 
> 
> DRHANKZ,
> 
> Did you do your upgrade to V1.29j yet?
> 
> 
> If so, any comments?
> 
> --Bob



I'm Gutless - not until after Super Bowl


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^ Perfectly rational if you ask me...

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12989963
> 
> 
> I am running v1.2 on my D2 and the constant cracks and pops through my speakers when watching a BD on my ps3 is really starting to become bothersome. Does the new firmware address this issue as I think someone had mentioned it was an issue with accepting LPCM from the PS3?
> 
> 
> What else does version V1.29j offer?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> I downloaded the latest from Anthem support and the readme file states V1.3 but the actual installer software says V1.29j. Should I bother with 1.29j or does the readme file show that there will be a V1.3?



I updated my D2 to V1.29j and I am extremely pleased that I no longer hear the loud cracks and pops out of my speakers on ps3 BD movies. I tried 3 different movies where it was apparent (especially the original Fifth Element) and they were no longer there. Ahhhh Audio Bliss.



John


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/12993100
> 
> 
> I updated my D2 to V1.29j and I am extremely pleased that I no longer hear the loud cracks and pops out of my speakers on ps3 BD movies. I tried 3 different movies where it was apparent (especially the original Fifth Element) and they were no longer there. Ahhhh Audio Bliss.
> 
> 
> 
> John



Happy also with 1.29j install except that when I change from 2.40 cinemascope to 1.78 and vise versa, I get a snowy picture(HDMI handshake?). I have to powerdown and picture comes back.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/12993514
> 
> 
> Happy also with 1.29j install except that when I change from 2.40 cinemascope to 1.78 and vise versa, I get a snowy picture(HDMI handshake?). I have to powerdown and picture comes back.



I updated to 1.29j as well and everything is fine. I just can't wait to get my hands on an ARC-1!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12992969
> 
> 
> ^^ Perfectly rational if you ask me...
> 
> --Bob



Ya - I have a Big Super Bowl Party to watch it in the 13 Ft. Screen.

No D2 - No Video and No Audio.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/12993514
> 
> 
> Happy also with 1.29j install except that when I change from 2.40 cinemascope to 1.78 and vise versa, I get a snowy picture(HDMI handshake?). I have to powerdown and picture comes back.



Explain how you "change from 2.40 cinemascope to 1.78 and vise versa". If you are changing video timings/resolution on the D2 output that is not uncommon - a display feature many times, if not always.


larry


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/12994971
> 
> 
> Explain how you "change from 2.40 cinemascope to 1.78 and vise versa". If you are changing video timings/resolution on the D2 output that is not uncommon - a display feature many times, if not always.
> 
> 
> larry



Larry,


I have 3 sources (DVD,Blu-ray and HD-DVD) that are configured as DVD1(1.78),DVD2(2.40). The same pattern goes with the other sources. With regular DVD (1.78), I dont change anything but with the other subinput DVD2, the Vertical scaling is lowered to 810 to take advantage of all the available vertical pixels. When I toggle between the 2 subinputs I get a snowy picture with sound. I have to power down to get the picture back. It happens 80% of the time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ABC999,

I take it you tried the simpler method of switching to a different input and back to force a new HDMI handshake. No luck?


Since you get sound the problem would appear to be on the Anthem's output side. The HDMI audio on your input is embedded in the input HDMI video, so it is likely seeing the input video properly. You might find useful info in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel.

--Bob


----------



## abc999

The truth is, I can't remember if I have switched to a different input. That will speed up the recovery process if it works.


----------



## wabbit636

can someone please tell me where I find the 1.29j update? I only see the 1.11 version on the company's site.


I currently have 1.2 and have poping in my speakers with blu ray moving on my PS3 and want to give 1.20j a try


thanks


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/12995145
> 
> 
> Larry,
> 
> 
> I have 3 sources (DVD,Blu-ray and HD-DVD) that are configured as DVD1(1.78),DVD2(2.40). The same pattern goes with the other sources. With regular DVD (1.78), I dont change anything but with the other subinput DVD2, the Vertical scaling is lowered to 810 to take advantage of all the available vertical pixels. When I toggle between the 2 subinputs I get a snowy picture with sound. I have to power down to get the picture back. It happens 80% of the time.



So you are changing video timings (resolution) of the D2 output. Bob suggested the only work-around that I know about.


larry


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/12989322
> 
> 
> Weird. What are the 3 readme files? I have Read Me First.txt, RS232 Updates.txt. My 8th file is the Setup Editor. I'll email it to you.



What is the "hidden" Anthem site?


Can someone get me the link, as I'll clearly need the new RS-232 files as well.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/12998465
> 
> 
> What is the "hidden" Anthem site?
> 
> 
> Can someone get me the link, as I'll clearly need the new RS-232 files as well.



There is a reason it is called HIDDEN


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/12998465
> 
> 
> What is the "hidden" Anthem site?
> 
> 
> Can someone get me the link, as I'll clearly need the new RS-232 files as well.



Give Anthem tech support a call and explain what you need. They will likely give you the address and password to the download site that holds this stuff. They are just trying to keep a handle on who is using their test software versions.


I think we are ALL hoping Anthem will move this stuff to the public download site soon.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12999872
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are ALL hoping Anthem will move this stuff to the public download site soon.
> 
> --Bob



This would be the understatement for the last year!!! When they finally do it (I am still on 1.10) I seriously think there will be a need for a site update that will do Anthem no harm. For technology that still remains absent any peer they (Anthem) need a serious info update and refresh that recognizes some of the tremendous gains they have accomplished through this rather lenthy process. It is an incredibly sad commentary on the management team of Anthem that the only substantive detail that begins to adequately describe the strengths of the D2 can be found in this thread!


If I were running this company Bob P, you would be center of the exec table. Most other thread regulars would be paid advisors except Hank who would side far too much with the engineering department for their own good. Having said that I would double Nicks salary and ensure that he too had a prominent influence at the exec table.


Seriously, again, to the folks at Anthem..........put V1.3 on the public site now, its taken faaar to long to correct this bad behaviour. You still do not have any competition and although your engineering prowess has kept you there your general management and marketing departments have a failing grade.


And no you can't have my D2 back for double the list price!!!!


Peter


----------



## scottshd

having trouble with 1.29j was working fine for a few days. tonight went into setup menu just to try change output res. backed out of menu and lost onscreen display, when I change the volume with the remote or on d2 itself get lines on the tv or just a blue screen. I changed output res. no change. powered d2 off and on same thing. switched tv to s- video same as hdmi. I still have video out put screen #7 button. should I try and reload 1.29j ? or wait till monday and call anthem ? thanks scott


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/13004579
> 
> 
> This would be the understatement for the last year!!! When they finally do it (I am still on 1.10) I seriously think there will be a need for a site update that will do Anthem no harm. For technology that still remains absent any peer they (Anthem) need a serious info update and refresh that recognizes some of the tremendous gains they have accomplished through this rather lenthy process. It is an incredibly sad commentary on the management team of Anthem that the only substantive detail that begins to adequately describe the strengths of the D2 can be found in this thread!
> 
> 
> If I were running this company Bob P, you would be center of the exec table. Most other thread regulars would be paid advisors except Hank who would side far too much with the engineering department for their own good. Having said that I would double Nicks salary and ensure that he too had a prominent influence at the exec table.
> 
> 
> Seriously, again, to the folks at Anthem..........put V1.3 on the public site now, its taken faaar to long to correct this bad behaviour. You still do not have any competition and although your engineering prowess has kept you there your general management and marketing departments have a failing grade.
> 
> 
> And no you can't have my D2 back for double the list price!!!!
> 
> 
> Peter



Hear, hear ......!


----------



## lalarsons

I contacted Anthem Tech Support regarding HDMI incompatibility with Apple TV; downloaded and installed 1.29J with no problems. Apple TV works through component/optical and still unable to get video/audio through HDMI. will update after working through this with Apple. No other 1.29J issues with my setup.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/13007679
> 
> 
> I contacted Anthem Tech Support regarding HDMI incompatibility with Apple TV; downloaded and installed 1.29J with no problems. Apple TV works through component/optical and still unable to get video/audio through HDMI. will update after working through this with Apple. No other 1.29J issues with my setup.



SAME results here.


Only works on COMPONENT.


Did you force Apple TV to 720p?


That is the only resolution - Apple Claims that works on HDMI.


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13007693
> 
> 
> SAME results here.
> 
> 
> Only works on COMPONENT.
> 
> 
> Did you force Apple TV to 720p?
> 
> 
> That is the only resolution - Apple Claims that works on HDMI.



Yes, I'm running 720p.


As you know, there are no issues with Apple TV video/audio using component/optical because the D2 does a great job with both. I would just like to reduce cable clutter in the jungle.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/13007764
> 
> 
> Yes, I'm running 720p.
> 
> 
> As you know, there are no issues with Apple TV video/audio using component/optical because the D2 does a great job with both. I would just like to reduce cable clutter in the jungle.



I have spare HDMI ports but NO Spare Component Ports.


I doubt we will see Apple TV work via HDMI.


----------



## wabbit636

Can someone please help me undertand the D/A conversion on my system......I have an audyssey pro sound eq and love it! I want to understand the D/A process involved in my system to see if it would be any different having it done by the D2 by reducing an extra D/A conversion.


DVD/CD outputs in digital (HDMI/Dig coax) to the D2

D2 then converts digital to analogue & then outputs analogue at the pre-outs???? Or does it out put in digital???


If outputs in analogue then my audyssey pro has no D/A converting to do.


So the MCA 50 takes the analogue and converts it to sound to the speakers.


OR does the D2 output from the pre-outs (L,R,C, RS, LS) in digital causing my Audyssey to do the D/A conversion?


Thanks!


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/13008577
> 
> 
> Can someone please help me undertand the D/A conversion on my system......I have an audyssey pro sound eq and love it! I want to understand the D/A process involved in my system to see if it would be any different having it done by the D2 by reducing an extra D/A conversion.
> 
> 
> DVD/CD outputs in digital (HDMI/Dig coax) to the D2
> 
> D2 then converts digital to analogue & then outputs analogue at the pre-outs???? Or does it out put in digital???
> 
> 
> If outputs in analogue then my audyssey pro has no D/A converting to do.
> 
> 
> So the MCA 50 takes the analogue and converts it to sound to the speakers.
> 
> 
> OR does the D2 output from the pre-outs (L,R,C, RS, LS) in digital causing my Audyssey to do the D/A conversion?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I plan on eventually getting the D2 mic and testing it against my audyssey Pro Eq stand alone unit at a cost of $2000+. I am very interested in seeing how it compares. If its as good then my audyssey unit willl be for sale and the $$ will go to other upgrades.......


Those that have never tried such a unit like the Audyssey Pro (not the cheaper verions but the stand alone pro unit) or a similar unit, you will be amazed at the difference it will make to your system. It is by far my best investment (even at $2000+) and the $300 cost for the D2 version is really a MUST have and a no brainer!


I think if the D2 does a good job like the audyssey, then Anthem should expect sales to rise big time. The D2 with room calibration, a video scaler, superior sound and the fact that it does it all (almost as it doesn't decode the latest surround sounds.....not getting into that discussion/debate!) .....it really is the PERFECT PACAKGE!


I love my D2!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/13008648
> 
> 
> I love my D2!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The multi-channel speaker pre-amp outputs of the D2 put out an analog audio signal -- which is of course what any audio power amp is expecting.


[There is a digital audio output available on the D2 intended for use with digital recorders. A digital audio input must be selected.]


I don't know the details of how your particular external EQ works, but most audio processors these days, when fed an analog audio input, have to DIGITIZE it prior to processing, and then reconvert it back to analog for output.


Indeed if you feed an analog audio input into the D2, it too must digitize that prior to processing. The processed result is then converted back to analog for output. If you choose to have the D2 not process that analog input, only then is it passed through to the output still as analog (without digitizing or conversion back to analog).


The data on a CD is recorded in digital form. The real-world, analog audio was converted to digital as part of the CD authoring process. So if you use the digital outputs of the CD to the D2 the next conversion will happen in the D2, after that digital audio input is processed by the D2, as that processed digital signal is converted to analog for the pre-amp outputs of the D2. What happens next, in your external EQ, depends on the details of how it is engineered, but I would expect that it would take that analog input and digitize it, then process it, then convert it back to analog for output.

--Bob


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13008689
> 
> 
> The multi-channel speaker pre-amp outputs of the D2 put out an analog audio signal -- which is of course what any audio power amp is expecting.
> 
> 
> [There is a digital audio output available on the D2 intended for use with digital recorders. A digital audio input must be selected.]
> 
> 
> I don't know the details of how your particular external EQ works, but most audio processors these days, when fed an analog audio input, have to DIGITIZE it prior to processing, and then reconvert it back to analog for output.
> 
> 
> Indeed if you feed an analog audio input into the D2, it too must digitize that prior to processing. The processed result is then converted back to analog for output. If you choose to have the D2 not process that analog input, only then is it passed through to the output still as analog (without digitizing or conversion back to analog).
> 
> 
> The data on a CD is recorded in digital form. The real-world, analog audio was converted to digital as part of the CD authoring process. So if you use the digital outputs of the CD to the D2 the next conversion will happen in the D2, after that digital audio input is processed by the D2, as that processed digital signal is converted to analog for the pre-amp outputs of the D2. What happens next, in your external EQ, depends on the details of how it is engineered, but I would expect that it would take that analog input and digitize it, then process it, then convert it back to analog for output.
> 
> --Bob



Bob....thanks!


Yes, I believe my EQ can only process & do its thing while its digital so it converts the analog to digital then back to analog for the amp to do its thing. There are way too many conversion for analog to digital then back to analog!


Any idea how the D2 will process it. Will it be able to process it directly if the input signal is digit (ie CDP) thus taking 1 D/A conversion out or will it convert the original signal to analog then back to digital to process and back to analog out the pre-outs?


----------



## PooperScooper

Well, my 4th D2 is in da house!







I loaded 1.29j and everything seems ok so far. It came with 1.21 which didn't have the mch PCM crackling fix (1.21d had it). My dealer also had a new D2 with ARC sitting on the floor ready to go out to a customer. The box is bigger than the "non-ARC" D2 box. He also had a couple video boards for replacements for the s-video issue.


larry


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/13010172
> 
> 
> Well, my 4th D2 is in da house!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loaded 1.29j and everything seems ok so far. It came with 1.21 which didn't have the mch PCM crackling fix (1.21d had it). My dealer also had a new D2 with ARC sitting on the floor ready to go out to a customer. The box is bigger than the "non-ARC" D2 box. He also had a couple video boards for replacements for the s-video issue.
> 
> 
> larry



Larry, can you clarify what the "s-video issue" is? Does it have anything to do with the OSD for the Setup menu?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/13009984
> 
> 
> Bob....thanks!
> 
> 
> Yes, I believe my EQ can only process & do its thing while its digital so it converts the analog to digital then back to analog for the amp to do its thing. There are way too many conversion for analog to digital then back to analog!
> 
> 
> Any idea how the D2 will process it. Will it be able to process it directly if the input signal is digit (ie CDP) thus taking 1 D/A conversion out or will it convert the original signal to analog then back to digital to process and back to analog out the pre-outs?



The D2 takes the digital audio input and "upsamples" it to 192KHz -- still as digital audio (if it is a traditional bitstream format from a DVD, i.e., DD5.1 or DTS it unpacks the bitstream into digital audio (PCM) and then upsamples that). Then it does whatever processing you have set it to do -- bass steering or surround sound for example, or the new Room EQ stuff real soon now. Only when it is done with all the processing does it convert the audio to analog for output.

--Bob


----------



## scottshd

Is it safe to reload same firmware back into d2 ? I have 1.29j which I just instlled a few days ago and was working fine, then last night went into setup menu and when I came back out lost picture for a little while then it came back but when I change the volume it goes to blue screen then back to picture. Through s-video when I adjust volume it puts lots of noise in the picture also can"t get on screen display for setup menu, video source #7 key menu comes on screen fine. I already tryed turning power of and back on with no luck. So wondering if I should reload firmware or does anyone think its a different problem? thanks scott


----------



## Bob Pariseau

scottshd,

It is safe to re-install the firmware. Don't cut any corners in the instructions. Do it like you were doing it for the first time.


It is certainly worth a try. Before you do that try this:


In Setup / Save and Restore Settings, do a Save User Settings (unless you already have them saved in there which would be even better). Then do a Reload Factory Defaults. You will lose video, but you can continue using the Front Panel display. Then do a Restore User Settings.


Once that finishes, Back out of Setup and do a complete power off (including the back panel switch) and back on to get a completely fresh start.


With any luck, if whatever you were doing in the Setup menu caused a system setting to become corrupted, this may fix it without you having to do a firmware re-install.


If it doesn't fix the problem, try doing a Reload Factory Defaults and then see if you can get clean, internally generated video and menu displays that way (i.e., manually reenter the Setup / Video Output stuff if you don't automatically have a picture, but leave everything else at Factory Default). See if adjusting volume still causes issues. If the Factory Default settings work, you may need to ignore your Saved User Settings and re-enter things manually.


However given the problems you had with your earlier install, and now this, I'm leaning towards this being a hardware problem. Since you have been setting things up, one thing to check is that all your cables are properly inserted (both ends) and without any loose hairs of wire or whatever that might be shorting something out (again, both ends). Another thing to check is whether the ventilation around your D2 is adequate. But failing anything obvious here, if the settings and software redo don't fix things for you, you will need to get Anthem tech support on the case.

--Bob


----------



## scottshd

Bob thanks again. tryed your first suggestions no luck. reloaded firmware all is fine again. don"t know if its a firmware glitch or if its a problem starting with the s-video output on my d2 I"ll call anthem on monday to see what they think. thanks again scott


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13010396
> 
> 
> Larry, can you clarify what the "s-video issue" is? Does it have anything to do with the OSD for the Setup menu?



The s-video circuit generates the characters for the OSD (setup menu). If you don't get the OSD displayed on your display there's a good chance the s-video circuitry is at fault. It's a known issue. If you can plug in a s-video source from a DVD player or stb and it plays fine for more than 5 or 10 minutes then you may not have an s-video problem. Earlier I described what happened when I tried s-video from the DVD player.


larry


----------



## dschamis

I am using a PS3 for Blu-Ray playback via HDMI. When I choose 'Linear PCM' in the PS3, and I set the D2 to PLIIx I get very little audio on the rear speakers. On the other hand, when I set the PS3 for 'Bitstream' and the D2 converts the incoming 'Dolby Digital' to PLIIx I get much more audio thru the rears. I know that I am not supposed to use the Bitstream setting, so what am I doing wrong?


Thanks,


David


----------



## mr_fitz

For all those of you out there that use the PS3 for gaming, should I set the video output for extended RGB instead of 4:4:4 since the input status on the d2 says RGB for games?


When I change the video output from the D2 to extended RGB, the setup text of the D2 looks sharper and brighter, the background color also looks richer. During gameplay though blacks look darker. I have selected full range RGB on the PS3 and I have selected extended RGB on the input side of the D2.


Thanks


John


----------



## wabbit636

John,


I haven't really done much comparing to see which seting is the best and I leave it on 4:4:4 on both PS3 and D2 which is my setting for movies. I will try out your recomendations!


Which setting do you use on the D2 for movies? PS3 for movies?


Thanks


----------



## mr_fitz

Should I have the D2 outputting YCbCr 4:2:2 instead of 4:4:4 when hooked up to a Jvc Rs-1? If yes should I have it always output this format for all my input sources? SA8300, ps3, oppo 970.


Thanks


John


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/13015069
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> I haven't really done much comparing to see which seting is the best and I leave it on 4:4:4 on both PS3 and D2 which is my setting for movies. I will try out your recomendations!
> 
> 
> Which setting do you use on the D2 for movies? PS3 for movies?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I have been using HDTV and 4:4:4 in the setup of the D2 for video output for everything thus far. The ps3 automatically selects YCbCr for BD movies but for games the ps3 outputs RGB into the D2. So I've been playing with outputting extended RGB out of the D2 to my projector. I've also selected full range RGB in the ps3 menu.


John


----------



## wabbit636

John,


Unfortunately I am no expert on this topic. I did eventually tried to see which one gave me the best picture quality between a few out the output options but couldn't really see any big noticable difference so I just left it on 4:4:4.


I hope someone can shed some light on these tweaks in case some of us are not getting the most from our precious D2s!


Cheers


----------



## ASW

An update on my 1.29j experience. It seemed to be working fine after a difficult download then the next day I had no video until several power cycles.


I reloaded 1.29j with no problems. Again, everything seemed to work OK right after the download- The next day I had no video again.


I decided to roll back the software to 1.21d when my nightmare began. I kept getting failed upgrade messages (fails at different times, but most seemed to fail with a message "unable to exit debug mode").


After about 2 hours, I finally was able to reload 1.21d successfully. When I went to restore my user settings, I got an error message indicating that the D2 had only factory settings stored. This all led to another 1-2 hours to re-set up my system manually.


1.21d is now working fine. Hopefully Anthem will figure out what is going on with this firmware (for what it is worth, I have kept current with every firmware version that has come out, and I have not had any problems like this).


Here is the basics of my system if anyone has any thoughts about where the problem is (or maybe it is just buggy firmware):


D2/PVA7

Z1 -Panasonic TH65px600u connected via HDMI

Z2 - LG26LX1D connected via Component and composite

Z3 - JVC 26" LCD connected via composite


Tivo S3 connected via HDMI, component and S-video (alternate connections for Z 2 & 3)

Sony PS3 connected via HDMI

Sony VCR connected vial S-Video and composite

Sony 5-disc DVD/SACD player connected via S-video and composite

Sony 300 disc DVD player connected via component, S-video and composite.

DLO HomeDock Pro iPod dock connected via S-video

Panamax 5100EX

Denon LD player connected via S-Video and composite

Harmon Kardon tape deck


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For the folks wondering about YCbCr 4:4:4 vs YCbCr 4:2:2 vs Studio RGB vs Extended RGB on input and output settings in the D2 and on settings in your source and display devices:


Read the posts on "Data Format" linked in the Technology and Terminology section of the first post of this thread. Also read the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post in the Setup links.


The simple answers are:


1) DO NOT CHANGE your Video Output settings, or the video level settings in your Display, just because the input source is sending something unexpected some of the time. There is one and only one "best" output setup between the D2 and your display. It is the Anthem's job to convert any input type to that "best" output type that you specify in Setup / Video Output and that you calibrate using your display's video level controls. Setup your Anthem's Setup / Video Output first (as described in the linked posts -- using the Anthem's internally generated test patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu and using the display's own video level controls for calibration) and then setup your input source settings. Oddness from any source device needs to be corrected using the settings in the source device itself or in the Anthem's Video Source Adjust / Picture menu for that input. NOT by changing settings on the display side of things.


2) For HDMI devices your starting point should by YCbCr 4:4:4. For DVI devices your starting point should be Studio RGB (not Extended RGB), OR look for a setting in the DVI device that configures it for use with a normal home theater setup as opposed to use with computer equipment. Studio RGB may just be labeled "RGB" in a source or display device. There will be odd cases where you need to do something different from that default starting point, but start there.


3) It is almost never the case that Extended RGB is the right choice for home theater use in either a source, a display, or the Anthem. Discovering that you have to use it probably means you are fighting a bug in your source or in your display, or that you have manually (INCORRECTLY!) forced your source or display to use it instead of the Studio RGB (or just "RGB") it would normally use, or that you are using computer-style equipment which is not designed to fit in naturally in a home theater setup. Studio RGB is also sometimes indicated in source or display device menus by "Black=16", or "IRE=7.5", or "Blacks=Normal", or "Blacks=Lighter" (in sources), or "Blacks=Darker" (in displays). Unfortunately, the people who dream up these menus haven't bothered to try to all use the same terminology. The setting you are looking for will have only two choices (i.e, don't confuse it with a multi-level control such as Brightness or Contrast) and it will be named as something having to do with imaging darkness or blacks. In some cases you may have to just try both ways to try to figure out what the heck they are calling Studio RGB. Do NOT be confused by terminology such as Extended or Enhanced blacks into thinking that's what you want. The people writing that stuff in manuals are clueless. It is much more likely that what you want will be labeled "Normal".


4.1) You can't properly compare whether one of these settings is better or worse than another until you RE-CALIBRATE your basic video levels (Blacks, Whites, Colors, Sharpness) BOTH WAYS and only THEN do your A/B comparison. Selecting a different data format changes how the data is encoded and video levels need to be adjusted to compensate.


4.2) In particular, if you are seeing one setting as producing obviously darker or lighter imaging than the other in the near blacks then you have NOT yet properly re-calibrated levels both ways! The real differences between these Data Formats (i.e, after both ways are properly calibrated) is more subtle than that. Note that if you set a source or display to use the "wrong" data format, then some devices will not even give you enough video calibration control range to get things properly calibrated again. This should be a clue that you shouldn't be using that data format.


4.3) If you are changing an INPUT side data format setting, then re-calibration needs to be done using the Anthem's Video Source Adjust / Picture controls or (more likely) the video output format or level controls in the SOURCE DEVICE. Do NOT alter the settings you already have in Setup / Video Output or in your display! If you are changing an OUTPUT side data format setting, then re-calibration needs to be done using your DISPLAY'S video level controls -- based on the Anthem's internally generated test patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu. Do NOT alter the Anthem's Video Source Adjust / Picture (i.e., input) settings or your source's settings. I.e., there is a proper calibration for the output side (which should be done first) and then a completely separate calibration to fine tune things on the input side. Having to make major corrections in the Anthem's Video Source Adjust / Picture settings for some source is an indication that you have goofed up somewhere.


5) Try to keep Data Format and Color Space separate in your mind. They are different things. See the posts linked above. Unfortunately, Anthem's Video Source Adjust / Picture menu lumps the Color Space setting for YCbCr inputs and the Data Format setting for RGB inputs into the same "Input Color Space" menu. You need to check mark a setting for each of these two settings in that menu. The Anthem will automatically use the YCbCr Color Space selection if the source is sending YCbCr and will use the RGB Data Format selection if the source is sending RGB.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/13012898
> 
> 
> The s-video circuit generates the characters for the OSD (setup menu). If you don't get the OSD displayed on your display there's a good chance the s-video circuitry is at fault. It's a known issue. If you can plug in a s-video source from a DVD player or stb and it plays fine for more than 5 or 10 minutes then you may not have an s-video problem. Earlier I described what happened when I tried s-video from the DVD player.
> 
> 
> larry



Thanks Larry, that's what I thought. I believe that this is exactly the problem that I have. I think I need to get this resolved, because the issue seems to be getting worse (the Setup menu becomes unstable and disappears entirely more often and sooner than before).


----------



## TREVLAN

I'd like to know the answer to this also.

I was just watching RATATOULIE using PS3 , HDMI to the AVM50, I checked UNCOMPRESSED PCM on the bluray disc then set the PS3 to Bitstream by mistake, I realised what I did and changed the PS3 back to LINEAR PCM, they was no differance at all. Sound wasn't louder or clearer. It sounds the same. which also wasn't bad.

Note that when it was set to Bitstream the PS3 was outputting the same numbers. LINEAR PCM 4.8 AT 6.9MPS as it showed when it was set to Linear PCM on the PS3.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13014443
> 
> 
> I am using a PS3 for Blu-Ray playback via HDMI. When I choose 'Linear PCM' in the PS3, and I set the D2 to PLIIx I get very little audio on the rear speakers. On the other hand, when I set the PS3 for 'Bitstream' and the D2 converts the incoming 'Dolby Digital' to PLIIx I get much more audio thru the rears. I know that I am not supposed to use the Bitstream setting, so what am I doing wrong?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The player can't generate a bitstream on the fly from an uncompressed PCM track, so it is probably ignoring your change of setting to bitstream.

--Bob


----------



## jimim

Hello. First I looked over lots of the links in the first post and can't seem to find an answer. I know the D2 will output 1080p24 to a compatible display but will the avm50 do the same and for that matter if I don't want scaling and want to rely the player will the AVM40 passthrough 1080p24?


thanks so much for the answer in advance!


jim


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The AVM-50 and the D2 share the same video processing hardware. So yes, the AVM-50 will do the same things with 1080p/24 that the D2 will do given they both have the same level of Anthem software installed.


I don't know the answer on the AVM-40. Its HDMI video is spec'ed for up to 1080p/60, but I don't know if there are any known issues with 1080p/24 when using it.


Note that even though the AVM-40 does not have the video processor (scaler, etc.) of the AVM-50, the HDMI video signal is still not simply "passed through". It has to be "handled" by the AVM-40 both to extract the audio and to do color space and data format input/output conversion. Simply put, the HDMI output signal is not simply switched in the AVM-40. It is generated afresh from the input to the output. So something could have been done wrong in that for /24 video. I just don't know.

--Bob


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13015241
> 
> 
> An update on my 1.29j experience. It seemed to be working fine after a difficult download then the next day I had no video until several power cycles.
> 
> 
> I reloaded 1.29j with no problems. Again, everything seemed to work OK right after the download- The next day I had no video again.



You're not alone. I have to power cycle multiple times to get any video output as well with 1.29j. Others have posted this problem as well.


I contacted Anthem support via email. Hopefully they will fix this by the time 1.30 ships.


What seems strange is how some units experience this problem while others don't. Or how something like this can pass Anthem's QC before being released, albeit through support channels only.


I'm wondering if only a certain range of D2s are affected by this. Just as some units experience the crackling problem while most do not.


----------



## ASW

I wonder whether it is a question of what you have running through the D2 and how it is connected - e.g., is it only an HDMI issue? I don't know - I plan on calling Nick today.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I bought a used D1-HD and I have no dealers closer than 150 miles. Is there pre-orders being offered and are there any recommended dealers I should go to?


Thanks


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Just as some units experience the crackling problem while most do not.



The D2 I just received had the crackling issue just like my 2nd and 3rd units. It has to do with a newer batch (or different supplier) of ribbon cables. FW 1.21d and above will fix the problem, fortunately.


Also, with my new unit and 1.29j I haven't encountered the Oppo 970 screech (yet).


larry


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13024980
> 
> 
> I wonder whether it is a question of what you have running through the D2 and how it is connected - e.g., is it only an HDMI issue? I don't know - I plan on calling Nick today.



I run component connections to the D2 and have not experienced any video problem so far with ver 1.29j. In fact, it cured my earlier problem of intermittent video loss with ver 1.11.


However, the Status Display keeps indicating no video input even as video is being processed. Has anyone else noticed this?


Oh yes, this version also appears to have a problem generating BLUE test pattern bars. It will only generate nicely the lighter bars on the right half of the screen, but the darker (left) half becomes one solid block of blue.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13025323
> 
> 
> I bought a used D1-HD and I have no dealers closer than 150 miles. Is there pre-orders being offered and are there any recommended dealers I should go to?
> 
> 
> Thanks



The most recent word we have is that Anthem hasn't finalized the pricing for the ARC-1 (Room EQ) upgrade, and so dealers aren't able to place orders yet. However, new D2's ARE now shipping with the ARC-1 included, so it can't be long now.


Anthem tries to keep its dealers from selling outside their market areas. I wouldn't expect any discounts on the ARC-1 anyway (since it isn't that expensive to begin with), so your best bet is probably just to buy from your closest dealer, by phone, and have him ship it to you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13025532
> 
> 
> I run component connections to the D2 and have not experienced any video problem so far with ver 1.29j. In fact, it cured my earlier problem of intermittent video loss with ver 1.11.
> 
> 
> However, the Status Display keeps indicating no video input even as video is being processed. Has anyone else noticed this?
> 
> 
> Oh yes, this version also appears to have a problem generating BLUE test pattern bars. It will only generate nicely the lighter bars on the right half of the screen, but the darker (left) half becomes one solid block of blue.
> 
> 
> Ben



Are you seeing problems in blue ramps when playing an appropriate test chart from a calibration DVD (Avia or Digital Video Essentials (DVE))?


Make sure you have Setup / Video Output / Preferred set to HDMI or Component according to what you are using for output to your display.


Try setting your Setup / Video Output / Data Format explicitly instead of using the "Auto" setting. For an HDMI or Component video display, start with YCbCr 4:4:4. For a DVI display start with Studio RGB.


It shouldn't affect just blue color, but if you are using HDMI or DVI you might also want to try the alternate Sync setting in there as well.


I don't know what's going on with the status display. Are both the info displayed when you press the Select key and when you view the Video Source Adjust / Info panel wrong?

--Bob


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13024980
> 
> 
> I wonder whether it is a question of what you have running through the D2 and how it is connected - e.g., is it only an HDMI issue? I don't know - I plan on calling Nick today.



Dunno. I have a mixture of component and HDMI sources which output to a plasma over HDMI at 720p. The only variable between working and non-working (i.e. no video on startup) systems has been the firmware.


My firmware experiences so far:
1.00, 1.06 - no problems
1.20 - about 1 in 3 D2 startups would not have video output
1.21b - no problems. have not tried 1.21d.
1.29j - rarely get video output on D2 startup. normally takes 1-4 power cycles to get video output


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13026528
> 
> 
> Dunno. I have a mixture of component and HDMI sources which output to a plasma over HDMI at 720p. The only variable between working and non-working (i.e. no video on startup) systems has been the firmware.
> 
> 
> My firmware experiences so far:
> 1.00, 1.06 - no problems
> 1.20 - about 1 in 3 D2 startups would not have video output
> 1.21b - no problems. have not tried 1.21d.
> 1.29j - rarely get video output on D2 startup. normally takes 1-4 power cycles to get video output



Sometimes this has to do with the timing of when the D2 tries to handshake with the display. A problem can happen if the D2 tries to work with the display before the display is quite ready. If you are powering the display and D2 on together (as with a programmable remote control), try making sure the display turns on first and increase the delay between when the display turns on and when the D2 turns on. I suppose the D2's timing may have changed in the new firmware.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13026973
> 
> 
> Sometimes this has to do with the timing of when the D2 tries to handshake with the display. A problem can happen if the D2 tries to work with the display before the display is quite ready. If you are powering the display and D2 on together (as with a programmable remote control), try making sure the display turns on first and increase the delay between when the display turns on and when the D2 turns on. I suppose the D2's timing may have changed in the new firmware.
> 
> --Bob




I would have thought if the problem was just a timing issue, a simple power cycle on the D2 would take care of things. In my case with 1.29j, although all worked well after the initial install, after day one I needed to do 4-5 or more power cycles to get video. I have a feeling the problem was on the input side since the D2 reported "no video signal" while it was not working, but I can't really be sure.


For me rolling back to 1.21d fixed everything (other than the fact that the rollback erased all of my settings), so it seems to be a 1.29j problem of some kind.


I hope Anthem figures out why a number of D2s seem to have video problems after installing 1.29j, particularly if the upgraded firmware is necessary to use the ARC-1.


----------



## zombyw00f

What is the best DVD player to use with the D2?


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zombyw00f* /forum/post/13029302
> 
> 
> What is the best DVD player to use with the D2?




Hey Zombyw00f


I would recommend the Oppo 970HD which will allow you to send 480i over HDMI.

Also has SACD/DVD-A capability over HDMI and there is a region free hack!

It's all good and not expensive!

/\\/\\


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zombyw00f* /forum/post/13029302
> 
> 
> What is the best DVD player to use with the D2?



I use the PS3 and am very happy with it. Its hard to beat the PS3 when it comes to manufacturer support.


----------



## ninja12

After I finished my initial set up for the D2, I wanted to make sure that I had the connections for all the speakers connected correctly. So, I went to the calibration menu, and I set the option to auto. I was able to get sound from every speaker except for the center channel. So, I switched the option to manual, and I was able to get sound from every speaker including the center channel. Has anyone else ran into this problem? If so, how did you correct it? Will I have to send it back to Anthem already? I just got it.


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zombyw00f* /forum/post/13029302
> 
> 
> What is the best DVD player to use with the D2?



From a value+performance perspective, the Oppo 970 (or its current incarnation) is an extremely good match for the D2 as is the Toshiba HD-A3. The Sony BDP-S300 also plays DVD at 480i reasonably well, just not to the same level as the other two IMHO. Check those threads for details as this one focuses on D2/AVM50.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zombyw00f* /forum/post/13029302
> 
> 
> What is the best DVD player to use with the D2?



For my money, right now, I would go with the Toshiba A-30. It does a super job upconverting SD DVD's, and outputs 1080p with HD-DVD, and is a great buy on Amazon right now. As others have said, the Oppo's are really good at upconverting, or even better outputting 480i for the Anthem to upconvert, but I personally would go with the 980H for its better audio, black color (970 is only silver) and the 980 is easier to find.


----------



## ninja12

I tried to load v1.29j; but, it keeps failing. I keep getting this error: "Cannot connect to OKI Boot Loader". Has anyone seen this error before? If so, how do I get around it? Also, I am using a usb to serial adapter to do the upgrade. Could that be my problem? I hope not since I don't own a computer with a serial port on it.


----------



## wookie

I had the same error sometime ago when I tried loading version 1.21d using a laptop with a true serial port and running windows 98. I had loaded the previous versions without any problem with this computer. I finally got it to load using another desktop using windows xp and again a true serial port. If you search a few pages back other people have had problems with the usb to serial port adaptors. Some brands were suggested to use. Check your cables or try another cable. Borrow another computer if you can. Especially if you can find one with a true serial port. Some people have had problems having the d2 accepting an upgrade especially with some usb to serial adapters. Personally I'm going to wait until they fix some problems with the v1.29 upgrades and come out the room equalizer since my system is working reasonably well now.


----------



## scottshd

ninja12 can"t help you with error message but I recently loaded 1.29j using a usb to serial adapter . I used a keyspan you can go to keyspan.com to find them


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13032701
> 
> 
> "Cannot connect to OKI Boot Loader".



Once I got that error I had to to use the flash eraser (multiple time) until it succeed cleanly to remove all traces of the half downloaded firmware. Then took the D2 next to my other pc which has a real serial port which then successfully flashed the new firmware.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13032701
> 
> 
> I tried to load v1.29j; but, it keeps failing. I keep getting this error: "Cannot connect to OKI Boot Loader". Has anyone seen this error before? If so, how do I get around it? Also, I am using a usb to serial adapter to do the upgrade. Could that be my problem? I hope not since I don't own a computer with a serial port on it.



Please report this problem to Anthem. It is essential that all problems be reported to Anthem this is the only way they could be aware of them and work on a resolution.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13025861
> 
> 
> The most recent word we have is that Anthem hasn't finalized the pricing for the ARC-1 (Room EQ) upgrade, and so dealers aren't able to place orders yet. However, new D2's ARE now shipping with the ARC-1 included, so it can't be long now.
> 
> 
> Anthem tries to keep its dealers from selling outside their market areas. I wouldn't expect any discounts on the ARC-1 anyway (since it isn't that expensive to begin with), so your best bet is probably just to buy from your closest dealer, by phone, and have him ship it to you.
> 
> --Bob



The ARC-A is worth every penny it cost.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/13008648
> 
> 
> I plan on eventually getting the D2 mic and testing it against my audyssey Pro Eq stand alone unit at a cost of $2000+. I am very interested in seeing how it compares. If its as good then my audyssey unit willl be for sale and the $$ will go to other upgrades.......
> 
> 
> Those that have never tried such a unit like the Audyssey Pro (not the cheaper verions but the stand alone pro unit) or a similar unit, you will be amazed at the difference it will make to your system. It is by far my best investment (even at $2000+) and the $300 cost for the D2 version is really a MUST have and a no brainer!
> 
> 
> I think if the D2 does a good job like the audyssey, then Anthem should expect sales to rise big time. The D2 with room calibration, a video scaler, superior sound and the fact that it does it all (almost as it doesn't decode the latest surround sounds.....not getting into that discussion/debate!) .....it really is the PERFECT PACAKGE!
> 
> 
> I love my D2!


----------



## Kensmith48

My question was lost, so I'll ask again.

My Denon 3800 is still freezing occassionally and now the drawer keeps opening & closing on it's own. I have an old Sony S7000 which only does 480i. a Pioneer 710 rptv (hdtv ready) and the Anthem D2. I can only use component cables so what's the best resolution I can expect. I'm guessing 480p but thought I'd check. I'm not sure how far the D2 can go with it as far as upscaling.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/13034589
> 
> 
> My question was lost, so I'll ask again.
> 
> My Denon 3800 is still freezing occassionally and now the drawer keeps opening & closing on it's own. I have an old Sony S7000 which only does 480i. a Pioneer 710 rptv (hdtv ready) and the Anthem D2. I can only use component cables so what's the best resolution I can expect. I'm guessing 480p but thought I'd check. I'm not sure how far the D2 can go with it as far as upscaling.



How is your TV connected to the D2? Component also? If so, then the best you'll get is 480P. Due to Macrovision copy protection, the D2 can't upconvert 480i source material from component to anything other than 480P when the output is component. If your TV can take HDMI or DVI and is HDCP compliant, then you can get up to 1080P out of the D2 from your DVD player input.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/13035445
> 
> 
> How is your TV connected to the D2? Component also? If so, then the best you'll get is 480P. Due to Macrovision copy protection, the D2 can't upconvert 480i source material from component to anything other than 480P when the output is component. If your TV can take HDMI or DVI and is HDCP compliant, then you can get up to 1080P out of the D2 from your DVD player input.



In my experience, the D2 can output 576p on component as well with no problem.


So far, I have seen only 1 movie with Macrovision copy protection amongst my collection of about 780 DVDs - T2 (Ultimate Edition).


Ben


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13034546
> 
> 
> The ARC-A is worth every penny it cost.



i second that!

/\\/\\


----------



## benleeys

Bob, seems some of the posts here have gone missing, like my reply to your #11047 and your subsequent reply to mine.

















Ben


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13035789
> 
> 
> Bob, seems some of the posts here have gone missing, like my reply to your #11047 and your subsequent reply to mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



There was a server outage yesterday and the forum was restored from 5am backups (Feb 5). There was an announcement posted at top of each forum (above).


larry


----------



## slots1

I own a four year old gateway laptop which has a serial port and usb.

I assume I do not need the usb to serial converter. I can just go serial to serial on the d2 and gateway.

But, I am still on 1.11 and I am having no problems. So I figure I will wait until the ARC is available.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/13037463
> 
> 
> I own a four year old gateway laptop which has a serial port and usb.
> 
> I assume I do not need the usb to serial converter. I can just go serial to serial on the d2 and gateway.
> 
> But, I am still on 1.11 and I am having no problems. So I figure I will wait until the ARC is available.



If it's not broke, don't fix it.







The direct serial port should work just fine when you need to load new firmware or save/edit settings.


larry


----------



## Kensmith48

I tried some different settings today with the D2, Pioneer 710, and the Sony S7000. I have everything hooked up with component cables. I set the D2 at 480i & 480p, and also the 1920x180 60hz settings Everything else in between didn't work (lost video). I'm assuming the higher settings are passing thru since the picture didn't improve.

The only question I have now is: Do I set the D2 at 480i and let it scale it to 480p, or do I just set the D2 at 480p. The Sony player is only capable of 480i.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/13037535
> 
> 
> I tried some different settings today with the D2, Pioneer 710, and the Sony S7000. I have everything hooked up with component cables. I set the D2 at 480i & 480p, and also the 1920x180 60hz settings Everything else in between didn't work (lost video). I'm assuming the higher settings are passing thru since the picture didn't improve.
> 
> The only question I have now is: Do I set the D2 at 480i and let it scale it to 480p, or do I just set the D2 at 480p. The Sony player is only capable of 480i.



Set your D2 output for 480p. It will do a better job of deinterlacing than the vast majority of equipment available.


----------



## esander3

wabbit636,


I sent you a personal note. I own an AVM-50 and would be interested in your Audyssey if you decide to sell it. Please check your personal notes for my note with email address. Thanks


esander3


----------



## etrexler

I just received my new D2 today and have a few questions.


Foolish me, I cannot find a way or any mention of bi-amp/bi-wiring capability in the Anthem. I have the D2 and A5 Amp, but nothing is mentioned regarding bi-amp/bi-wiring capability. My old Pioneer receiver supported taking the read channels and outputting a full front l/r signal to them so I assumed that the ANthem did also.


Finally, OSD (on screen display) was working, but is now not working after I made a few changes. Any idea what they could have been? All HDMI to a Pioneer Pro-FHD1 monitor and I can see the screen color change and also the bottom information on the screen, but the OSD setup is not functioning.


Thanks,


Eric


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13034535
> 
> 
> Please report this problem to Anthem. It is essential that all problems be reported to Anthem this is the only way they could be aware of them and work on a resolution.



Yes, I have been exchanging e-mails with tech support at Anthem. They have told me several things to try. The bottom line is that I might have to find a computer that has a serial port on it. Do they even make computers with serial ports on them anymore? I haven't seen one of those in years. Will Anthem come up with a better way to apply firmware updates in the future other than using serial port?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/13033810
> 
> 
> Once I got that error I had to to use the flash eraser (multiple time) until it succeed cleanly to remove all traces of the half downloaded firmware. Then took the D2 next to my other pc which has a real serial port which then successfully flashed the new firmware.



Yes, the tech from Anthem told me to use the flash eraser before I try to update the firmware again.


----------



## ninja12

Thanks for the info. I will check them out.


----------



## chas

I have posted in the past about my video problems (no video on startup one third of the time--apparently no HDMI handshake). The problems continued in spite of all efforts and after trying suggestions from this forum and Anthem support.


Anthem support finally sent me a file to interrogate my D2--Video Board Questioner 1.02. I used the same technique as firmware upgrade--laptop via serial to D2.


The Questioner asked Question 1 and Question 2 (no details of the questions were disclosed). My D2 answered to #1: No. No.; to #2 Yes.


When I transmitted this info, they replied that I had a hardware problem and I have shipped the unit to them.


Does anyone have any idea what this means? I'd have to say that I thought my unit worked fine with 1.11 and I only noticed problems after installing 1.21d.


My installer gave me an Integra DTC-9.8 as a loaner--I have to say I'm very impressed...


C.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13034546
> 
> 
> The ARC-A is worth every penny it cost.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13035728
> 
> 
> i second that!
> 
> /\\/\\



So do you guys have the ARC software up and running?

Anything details you can share? I assume if you could you would.


Someone mentioned a price of $300.

I'm not knocking Anthem but in the past, the early leaks on their pricing have always been cheaper than the reality.

My guess is ARC will cost $400 not $300.


----------



## Unclejeff

I just got my new Anthem. The first problem was the 'Pink' and I contacted Anthem support. They instructed me to download the latest software...which turns out to be v1.11.


Now the Anthem talks to my NEC 50XM5 plasma through both component and HDMI but I can't get it to pass the signal from the source, be it Satellite or DVD.


The Anthem seems to register reception of the Satellite, with stereo light coming on but i can't pass signal along. Is there something I need to instruct the Anthem to do?


previously, even though 'Pink' I was able to get a signal from Satellite box to my plasma.


The connection is with a HDMI/DVI cable which I don't think is a problem as I can get the Anthem logo on the screen when I power up the Anthem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/13040565
> 
> 
> I just got my new Anthem. The first problem was the 'Pink' and I contacted Anthem support. They instructed me to download the latest software...which turns out to be v1.11.
> 
> 
> Now the Anthem talks to my NEC 50XM5 plasma through both component and HDMI but I can't get it to pass the signal from the source, be it Satellite or DVD.
> 
> 
> The Anthem seems to register reception of the Satellite, with stereo light coming on but i can't pass signal along. Is there something I need to instruct the Anthem to do?
> 
> 
> previously, even though 'Pink' I was able to get a signal from Satellite box to my plasma.
> 
> 
> The connection is with a HDMI/DVI cable which I don't think is a problem as I can get the Anthem logo on the screen when I power up the Anthem.



If your display is a DVI display, set Setup / Video Output/ Data Format to RGB rather than relying on the "Auto" setting. This should cure the "shocking pink" problem.


For your HDMI sources, set Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO and see if that gets the source happy again.


The latest software for the Anthem D2 is actually V1.29j, which is accessible only through a password protected web site, as opposed to V1.11 which is on the public web site. Anthem tech support would normally have sent you to the password protected site to get that version.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/13040565
> 
> 
> I just got my new Anthem. The first problem was the 'Pink' and I contacted Anthem support. They instructed me to download the latest software...which turns out to be v1.11.
> 
> 
> Now the Anthem talks to my NEC 50XM5 plasma through both component and HDMI but I can't get it to pass the signal from the source, be it Satellite or DVD.
> 
> 
> The Anthem seems to register reception of the Satellite, with stereo light coming on but i can't pass signal along. Is there something I need to instruct the Anthem to do?
> 
> 
> previously, even though 'Pink' I was able to get a signal from Satellite box to my plasma.
> 
> 
> The connection is with a HDMI/DVI cable which I don't think is a problem as I can get the Anthem logo on the screen when I power up the Anthem.



You got a Brand new Anthem D2 and it did not have the newest software update loaded into it? That doesn't sound right? Is Anthem really shipping new Anthem D2's without the newest software upgrades?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/13039948
> 
> 
> I have posted in the past about my video problems (no video on startup one third of the time--apparently no HDMI handshake). The problems continued in spite of all efforts and after trying suggestions from this forum and Anthem support.
> 
> 
> Anthem support finally sent me a file to interrogate my D2--Video Board Questioner 1.02. I used the same technique as firmware upgrade--laptop via serial to D2.
> 
> 
> The Questioner asked Question 1 and Question 2 (no details of the questions were disclosed). My D2 answered to #1: No. No.; to #2 Yes.
> 
> 
> When I transmitted this info, they replied that I had a hardware problem and I have shipped the unit to them.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any idea what this means? I'd have to say that I thought my unit worked fine with 1.11 and I only noticed problems after installing 1.21d.
> 
> 
> My installer gave me an Integra DTC-9.8 as a loaner--I have to say I'm very impressed...
> 
> 
> C.




I had the same problem with my AVM50 before. Upgrading to 1.21 mess up everything and I could not revert back to older firmwares. since I am from the Philippines , it would be very expensive to ship back the unit, Anthem sent a new video board (through my dealer) with a NEW revision letter. It was pink in color different from the original greenish board. I believe that the firmware is not compatible with OLD boards .


----------



## work permit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/13040565
> 
> 
> I just got my new Anthem. The first problem was the 'Pink' and I contacted Anthem support. They instructed me to download the latest software...which turns out to be v1.11.
> 
> .



Strange. I just got my new Anthem as well, and it came installed with v1.30


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *work permit* /forum/post/13042176
> 
> 
> Strange. I just got my new Anthem as well, and it came installed with v1.30



That makes me feel better. I can't imagine Anthem is sending new D2's out to consumers with old software.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/13032886
> 
> 
> ninja12 can"t help you with error message but I recently loaded 1.29j using a usb to serial adapter . I used a keyspan you can go to keyspan.com to find them



Do you know what the Keyspan model # is? I purchased the Keyspan USA-19HS through advice from Anthem, but the serial end does not fit the back of the Anthem because of the screw attachments on the Keyspan.


----------



## jkmw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13042581
> 
> 
> Do you know what the Keyspan model # is? I purchased the Keyspan USA-19HS through advice from Anthem, but the serial end does not fit the back of the Anthem because of the screw attachments on the Keyspan.



Bluemark81,


I'm using the USA-19HS with a serial male to female patch cord, (about 40' long as part of a permanently installed and routed attachment to a somewhat remote laptop). I seem to remember having a problem attaching the Keyspan to the patch cord, and the two PC adapter screws laying next to the laptop attest to this. As I remember it, I removed the two screws from the Keyspan.


FYI - My Keyspan adapter is about two years old and the firmware wasn't up to date. Anthem clearly states that the adapter's software Must be up to date. Keyspan provides a fairly seamless upgrade path which I was able to perform before I downloaded the new D2 firmware.


I found running a permanently attached patch cord allowed me Much greater ease of attachment. This also allowed me to use the Keyspan for other serial devices, like a serial barcode scanner for the movie collection, when it wasn't hooked up to the D2.


mark


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *etrexler* /forum/post/13039391
> 
> 
> I just received my new D2 today and have a few questions.
> 
> 
> Foolish me, I cannot find a way or any mention of bi-amp/bi-wiring capability in the Anthem. I have the D2 and A5 Amp, but nothing is mentioned regarding bi-amp/bi-wiring capability. My old Pioneer receiver supported taking the read channels and outputting a full front l/r signal to them so I assumed that the ANthem did also.
> 
> 
> Finally, OSD (on screen display) was working, but is now not working after I made a few changes. Any idea what they could have been? All HDMI to a Pioneer Pro-FHD1 monitor and I can see the screen color change and also the bottom information on the screen, but the OSD setup is not functioning.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Eric



bi-wiring is just using speaker wire that essentially has 2 pair of speaker cables in one package minus one set of amp connectors. bi-amping or using more than one channel in the A5 for one speaker is an amplifier specific thing. Check the A5 manual or A5 threads here. If all else fails you can always just connect a Y-cable from 1 output on the D2 and feed 2 channels on the A5.


Your OSD problem could be a know issue with the D2 s-video circuitry. Try using a DVD player with s-video out into the D2 s-video input. See how well that works for 5-10 minutes. However, you may want to try resetting to factory defaults and try again.


larry


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *work permit* /forum/post/13042176
> 
> 
> Strange. I just got my new Anthem as well, and it came installed with v1.30



I got my D2 at the beginning of January this year, and it has v1.21.


----------



## Unclejeff

Bob, thanks for getting me to pause and carefully read the Email from anthem. I did not load the link to technical support so I quickly went to the main (public) anthem site and downloaded 'the latest software' which turned out to be version 1.11.


The result was total loss of any video transfer from my source to monitor.


Last night I got the right software loaded and component works really good but the HDMI is now bright green...looks like what happened way back when I tried to copy a DVD onto a VCR tape (macrovision effect).


Keeping in mind that I am using HDVI/DVI. Yes,I have it set to RGB. At 'prefer HDMI' I get the green and no component. At 'prefer component' I get component and still get the green. It only works with component from source (Satellite) to component to monitor (plasma).


----------



## ninja12

I downloaded Flash Eraser from Anthem's website. When I try to run it, I get the following error: "Component 'MSCOMM32.OCX' or one of its dependencies not correctly registered: a file is missing or invalid.". I downloaded it by clicking on the disc icon instead of clicking on link4 which I believe will give me the same thing. Anyway, has anyone seen this error before, and what is this really telling me? Did Anthem forget to package something in the zip file?


If I can't get Flash Eraser to execute, will that be a big problem? The reason for me asking is because my past attempts to update the firmware to 1.29j has failed; but, I think that some of the update worked because I am seeing four Video Configurations now instead of two.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13042581
> 
> 
> Do you know what the Keyspan model # is? I purchased the Keyspan USA-19HS through advice from Anthem, but the serial end does not fit the back of the Anthem because of the screw attachments on the Keyspan.



As another poster mentioned, just remove those end pieces. This is typical of serial adapters. They come with two REMOVABLE female/female threaded pieces on each screw end so that they can be used with both styles of serial connection (i.e., if you are screwing the end of another serial cable into them you want female ends on the adapter's screws, and if screwing into a socket you want male ends on those screws). Just remove the little adapter pieces at the end of each screw.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/13044376
> 
> 
> Bob, thanks for getting me to pause and carefully read the Email from anthem. I did not load the link to technical support so I quickly went to the main (public) anthem site and downloaded 'the latest software' which turned out to be version 1.11.
> 
> 
> The result was total loss of any video transfer from my source to monitor.
> 
> 
> Last night I got the right software loaded and component works really good but the HDMI is now bright green...looks like what happened way back when I tried to copy a DVD onto a VCR tape (macrovision effect).
> 
> 
> Keeping in mind that I am using HDVI/DVI. Yes,I have it set to RGB. At 'prefer HDMI' I get the green and no component. At 'prefer component' I get component and still get the green. It only works with component from source (Satellite) to component to monitor (plasma).



You want Preferred=HDMI for a DVI connection.


When using copy protected HDMI sources, the Anthem's Component outputs will be disabled as required by the copy protection licensing.


If you are seeing a video picture (i.e., not just a solid green screen) and it is colored either ghastly green or shocking pink, then you have a mismatch of "Data Format" -- usually on the output (display) side of the Anthem.


First, select an Anthem input that has no video source connected to it. Then press and hold the "7" key until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up. Then go to the Patterns panel and view the test bar patterns. The test bar patterns are generated internally in the Anthem and are independent of any source device. Use these to setup the output (display side) of your D2's settings and to adjust the settings in your display itself.


If you still have ghastly green when viewing these, then bring up the Setup / Video Output menu and try adjusting the Data Format setting manually instead of using the "Auto" setting. For a DVI display, RGB would normally be the one you want. But ghastly green imagery would imply that your display is actually expecting YCbCr 4:4:4 instead. Also check the manual for your display and look for a setting that configures its DVI input for use with home theater devices (instead of computers) as well as whether it has an RGB vs. YCbCr setting for that input.


Remember that settings in the Setup / Video Output menu will not take effect until you leave the menu and "accept" the changes.


Also remember that the new software you are using has multiple Video Output configurations and so you have to specify which one you want to use in the Setup / Source Setup menu for each input or you won't see the effect of any changes when viewing that input.


See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post linked in the first post of this thread for more tips on video setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13045066
> 
> 
> I downloaded Flash Eraser from Anthem's website. When I try to run it, I get the following error: "Component 'MSCOMM32.OCX' or one of its dependencies not correctly registered: a file is missing or invalid.". I downloaded it by clicking on the disc icon instead of clicking on link4 which I believe will give me the same thing. Anyway, has anyone seen this error before, and what is this really telling me? Did Anthem forget to package something in the zip file?
> 
> 
> If I can't get Flash Eraser to execute, will that be a big problem? The reason for me asking is because my past attempts to update the firmware to 1.29j has failed; but, I think that some of the update worked because I am seeing four Video Configurations now instead of two.



You only need to use Flash Eraser if the previous (failed) attempt to load firmware left the Anthem in a state where it won't accept another firmware install.


If you can load a version of the firmware without error, then you are fine, even though you didn't run Flash Eraser in between.


So just try re-installing the firmware on top of the failed install. Do not skip any steps in the instructions. Do it as if you were doing it for the first time.


------------------------------


The error message means an optional component of the Windows operating system was not included when you did your Windows install (Visual Basic or something like that I suspect). I know it has been discussed in this thread but I can't recall which component is the one you need. The solution is to use your Windows install discs and tell it to add that component to your current Windows software. Try a search in this thread, or give Anthem tech support a call.


But again, you don't NEED to run Flash Eraser unless your Anthem was bricked by the failed firmware install so that it can't accept a new try.

--Bob


----------



## Unclejeff

Bob;


Thanks, I will try this tonight.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13045238
> 
> 
> You only need to use Flash Eraser if the previous (failed) attempt to load firmware left the Anthem in a state where it won't accept another firmware install.
> 
> 
> If you can load a version of the firmware without error, then you are fine, even though you didn't run Flash Eraser in between.
> 
> 
> So just try re-installing the firmware on top of the failed install. Do not skip any steps in the instructions. Do it as if you were doing it for the first time.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> The error message means an optional component of the Windows operating system was not included when you did your Windows install (Visual Basic or something like that I suspect). I know it has been discussed in this thread but I can't recall which component is the one you need. The solution is to use your Windows install discs and tell it to add that component to your current Windows software. Try a search in this thread, or give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> 
> But again, you don't NEED to run Flash Eraser unless your Anthem was bricked by the failed firmware install so that it can't accept a new try.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I really appreciate your response. I will wait until my new serial cable comes in, and I will try it again.


BTW: I was sitting down at my computer and asking myself where can I get a computer that has a serial port on it. Well, the answer hit me right in my face. When I was booting up my desktop, Windows 2000 flashed on the screen. I was like "OH", I looked on the back of my desktop machine and found a serial port. It was there all the time. So, I have ordered a serial cable to reach to my D2 since my desktop is about 15ft away from my D2.


Anyway, once again Thanks!!! What would we do without you on this forum? Hope we don't have to find out.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13040157
> 
> 
> So do you guys have the ARC software up and running?
> 
> Anything details you can share? I assume if you could you would.
> 
> 
> Someone mentioned a price of $300.
> 
> I'm not knocking Anthem but in the past, the early leaks on their pricing have always been cheaper than the reality.
> 
> My guess is ARC will cost $400 not $300.



Only one comment, be patient its coming.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *work permit* /forum/post/13042176
> 
> 
> Strange. I just got my new Anthem as well, and it came installed with v1.30



You got the latest software.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's beyond me why Anthem doesn't at least take the old software download and manual off the public site. It is good for nothing but confusion at this point.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13046923
> 
> 
> It's beyond me why Anthem doesn't at least take the old software download and manual off the public site. It is good for nothing but confusion at this point.
> 
> --Bob



TRUE TRUE TRUE


----------



## scottshd

bluemark81 I see your question has already been answered. Yes that is the same model I have and I just used a male/female serial cable; hooked cable to d2 and left it hooked up worked fine. I did have to reload 1.29j a second time a few days later as I would get a blue screen everytime I adjusted the volume. I think my problem was that I used the old version of setup editor from anthems main site ; second time I entered everything manually and so far all is fine scott


----------



## ninja12

My D2 currently has v1.21. I am in the process of trying to update to v1.29j. Part of instructions is to load the factory default settings and once the new firmware has been applied, to load load my settings. Well, my question is are all firmware backwards compatible? How do I know that the settings that I have saved for v1.21 will still work for v1.29j? To me, if I reload my settings from v1.21, I could very well be undoing something that was done from v1.29j. Is this really an issue?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13049878
> 
> 
> My D2 currently has v1.21. I am in the process of trying to update to v1.29j. Part of instructions is to load the factory default settings and once the new firmware has been applied, to load load my settings. Well, my question is are all firmware backwards compatible? How do I know that the settings that I have saved for v1.21 will still work for v1.29j? To me, if I reload my settings from v1.21, I could very well be undoing something that was done from v1.29j. Is this really an issue?



Do it the way the instructions describe. The update basically preserves your current settings, but could have problems with some types of older settings. So they have you load the older version of the defaults first, then do the update, then reload your personal (again, older) settings. Installing the software will work more reliably if it if finds nothing but the (older) factory defaults. And then after the install, running the Restore of your settings runs software which recognizes that you may be using older settings and is supposed to "do the right thing" with them.


Now, having done that, you should still go through the resulting settings, menu by menu, looking for things that you might need to tidy up. For example, when they first introduced the "overlayed" inputs (e.g., DVD2 vs DVD1) they did not automatically "disable" the overlays, and they would start off with some odd settings in them which could cause confusion if you selected an overlayed input by mistake.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13046771
> 
> 
> Only one comment, be patient its coming.



Easy for you to say


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13050238
> 
> 
> Easy for you to say



Exactly!


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13045069
> 
> 
> As another poster mentioned, just remove those end pieces. This is typical of serial adapters. They come with two REMOVABLE female/female threaded pieces on each screw end so that they can be used with both styles of serial connection (i.e., if you are screwing the end of another serial cable into them you want female ends on the adapter's screws, and if screwing into a socket you want male ends on those screws). Just remove the little adapter pieces at the end of each screw.
> 
> --Bob



Bob: I attempted doing that, but they don't seem to come out.

http://www.keyspan.com/products/usa1...SA19HS_v1b.pdf


----------



## Unclejeff

Blumark;


Don't worry about hurting those stupid skrews. Force them.. That's what I did.


----------



## Unclejeff

Anyone want to help me buy Bob an ARC-1 kit?


Hey, where would we be without him?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/13050431
> 
> 
> Blumark;
> 
> 
> Don't worry about hurting those stupid skrews. Force them.. That's what I did.



Bluemark81,

Unclejeff is right. The female/female couplers have a stop in them to keep them from just falling off the male screw that's built into the plug. Just force them past the stop. If you damage the male part of the screw it's no big loss.


Or you could do what I do and leave a regular serial cable permanently attached to the back of the D2 and coiled up behind it. Then, when I need to hook it to the PC I pull out the loose end and use it. In your case that would mean the end of the cable would attach to serial plug on your Keyspan (make sure you get the right sex of cable at each end). The cable will have two screws that match the female couplers on the Keyspan.


The serial cable itself should be a "straight through" cable (pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9). Don't get a "null modem" cable that swaps a pair of wires from one end to the other.

--Bob


----------



## etrexler

Tolstoi,


I used the ARC software tonight. Only comment of note, it works. Rough go, very rustic, but the application works. Laptop locked up several times. Had to reboot the Anthem (full powerdown and up) to get it to see the processor again, but I finally got it.


----------



## Unclejeff

"If you damage the male part of the skrew...."


yup.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *etrexler* /forum/post/13050797
> 
> 
> Tolstoi,
> 
> 
> I used the ARC software tonight. Only comment of note, it works. Rough go, very rustic, but the application works. Laptop locked up several times. Had to reboot the Anthem (full powerdown and up) to get it to see the processor again, but I finally got it.


Are you impressed with the Audio results of the ARC?


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *etrexler* /forum/post/13050797
> 
> 
> Tolstoi,
> 
> I used the ARC software tonight. Only comment of note, it works. Rough go, very rustic, but the application works. Laptop locked up several times. Had to reboot the Anthem (full powerdown and up) to get it to see the processor again, but I finally got it.



That's it. It works?

How about a little before & after description, please.

If you're going to say better, don't bother











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13051453
> 
> Are you impressed with the Audio results of the ARC?



Bigmoviefan FYI,Blue textdoes not show up on the black background


----------



## dschamis

Is the ARC supposed to actually set things like treble and bass or just volumes of each speaker?


----------



## ASW

One thing to keep in mind is that if you resave your settings in 1.29j and then have to roll back to 1.21d (as I did) you will lose all of your saved settings and will have to re-input them manually. At least all of my settings were lost, and Nick confirmed that settings saved under 1.29 cannot be restored under 1.21. This is a real downside of not being able to save your settings to a laptop on the newer software versions.


I spoke to Nick earlier in the week and he told me Anthem was aware of the video problems some people (including me) are having with 1.29j, and they are working on fixing them in 1.30 (which will be a stable release put out on the Anthem public website). Nick also said some of the delay in making the Arc-1 available for current owners is that they want to get the software fixed first.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13050238
> 
> 
> Easy for you to say


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13049878
> 
> 
> My D2 currently has v1.21. I am in the process of trying to update to v1.29j. Part of instructions is to load the factory default settings and once the new firmware has been applied, to load load my settings. Well, my question is are all firmware backwards compatible? How do I know that the settings that I have saved for v1.21 will still work for v1.29j? To me, if I reload my settings from v1.21, I could very well be undoing something that was done from v1.29j. Is this really an issue?



The cool thing with the setup editor is that you could open both file the saved 1.21 and your current setting and quickly double check after the update that all your retrieved settings are ok. If not they could be quickly fixed if required.


Same for the life video editor files, multiple instance of the tool could be opened and used for comparison.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *etrexler* /forum/post/13050797
> 
> 
> Tolstoi,
> 
> 
> I used the ARC software tonight. Only comment of note, it works. Rough go, very rustic, but the application works. Laptop locked up several times. Had to reboot the Anthem (full powerdown and up) to get it to see the processor again, but I finally got it.



The software is still at beta testing stage. Please forward all your issues to Nick at Anthem so they could fix them for the final product.


Run it in advanced mode, the GUI are more detailed there.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13051453
> 
> Are you impressed with the Audio results of the ARC?



Big Time!


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13052886
> 
> 
> Big Time!



Ditto!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A HA! FINALLY! Folks we have our first posts here confirming that the ARC-1 processing is the best thing since sliced bread (or words to that effect)!


Mark this date down in your diaries.


(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

This is exciting that we are getting new about ARC, but night and day is a big statement. It would be nice if we could get some details on what it improved.


Thanks


----------



## ninja12

Could someone please tell me what's Nick's e-mail addres is? I tried to do a search on this forum for it; but, I couldn't find it. I probably did the search wrong.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/13053668
> 
> 
> This is exciting that we are getting new about ARC, but night and day is a big statement. It would be nice if we could get some details on what it improved.
> 
> Thanks



OK. I understand people are reticent to get into any details, how about this;

tell us about your sound system and room, like dedicated theater\\music room, multi-purpose room, garage, abandoned outhouse?

Speakers, amps, configuration, etc.

No details of the ARC or it's effects are required.

It would give us poor folks reference and comparison points, plus something interesting to read.

Thanks.

One wonders, if it's still in beta why are they shipping it in new D2s.....


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13054004
> 
> 
> Could someone please tell me what's Nick's e-mail addres is? I tried to do a search on this forum for it; but, I couldn't find it. I probably did the search wrong.



[email protected]


----------



## ninja12

Will this go directly to Nick or will it go into a queue?


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13054628
> 
> 
> Will this go directly to Nick or will it go into a queue?



Either email using above email address, or call the support number listed on the web site. Phone call is best way.


larry


----------



## ninja12

Ok. Thanks.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13052886
> 
> 
> Big Time!



Can you describe the differences between with ARC and without?


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13052737
> 
> 
> One thing to keep in mind is that if you resave your settings in 1.29j and then have to roll back to 1.21d (as I did) you will lose all of your saved settings and will have to re-input them manually. At least all of my settings were lost, and Nick confirmed that settings saved under 1.29 cannot be restored under 1.21. This is a real downside of not being able to save your settings to a laptop on the newer software versions.
> 
> 
> I spoke to Nick earlier in the week and he told me Anthem was aware of the video problems some people (including me) are having with 1.29j, and they are working on fixing them in 1.30 (which will be a stable release put out on the Anthem public website). Nick also said some of the delay in making the Arc-1 available for current owners is that they want to get the software fixed first.



If someone is getting a new Anthem D2 and it comes with software V 1.3 they shouldn't have any problems like you haver described , correct?


----------



## dschamis

I am using a PS3 as a BD/DVD player with the D2 via HDMI - two questions:


1. How do I get the PS3 to output DVDs at 480i? When I turn off scaling it goes to 480p, but I can't seem to figure out how to output 480i, which I believe is recommended for the D2.


2. When I set up the audio output and allow the PS3 to set the formats automatically it does not choose any 7.1 outputs - should it? I know that there are 7.1 BD soundtracks and I thought that the D2 could handle that input. Should I manually turn on the 7.1 outputs? Are there any audio outputs I should not choose with the D2 (the PS3 gives a stern warning about damaging your speakers)?


Thanks in advance,


David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13054815
> 
> 
> If someone is getting a new Anthem D2 and it comes with software V 1.3 they shouldn't have any problems like you haver described , correct?



It is not yet known here whether there are any differences between V1.29j that Anthem tech support is sending out and V1.3 as found in newly shipping D2s.


My guess is there is no difference. Anthem did the same thing when V1.12 from tech support became V1.2 in newly shipping units.


HOWEVER, whatever is causing these startup problems for some folks with V1.29j may be due either to differences in the way the factory installs firmware compared to home user installs, or to differences in the hardware between current production units and older units. So it is by no means obvious that folks getting new D2s with V1.3 will have any of these issues.


I suspect Anthem is now trying to sort out what changes have to be made to V1.29j to get the best results via home firmware installs on older production units. With any luck, when V1.3 finally shows up for public download, it won't have these problems.


I don't believe we've had any reports yet of any such problems from anyone who has received a new D2 with V1.3 factory installed.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi

All I can say is be patient.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13054898
> 
> 
> I am using a PS3 as a BD/DVD player with the D2 via HDMI - two questions:
> 
> 
> 1. How do I get the PS3 to output DVDs at 480i? When I turn off scaling it goes to 480p, but I can't seem to figure out how to output 480i, which I believe is recommended for the D2.
> 
> 
> 2. When I set up the audio output and allow the PS3 to set the formats automatically it does not choose any 7.1 outputs - should it? I know that there are 7.1 BD soundtracks and I thought that the D2 could handle that input. Should I manually turn on the 7.1 outputs? Are there any audio outputs I should not choose with the D2 (the PS3 gives a stern warning about damaging your speakers)?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> David



The D2 accepts up to 5.1 PCM input -- but will process it to produce 7.1 speaker output. See section 2.1 of the manual.


Someone else will have to answer your PS3 480i question.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.

For those of you having video output problems with version 1.29j Anthem is just about ready to release 1.29k to address that issue. Be patient.


I'm doing some final testing this weekend and will give you all the information about the ARC that you can pick out of my brain.










if you have specific questions I'll try to answer.


----------



## Tolstoi

Good News


The Beta tester of the ARC-1 are now allow to discuss about it publicly.


The ARC Software is a nice package, simple to use that allow measuring the speakers in the room as a unique system with its own response. The system is split in 3 components, the D2, a calibrated microphone and a piece of software running in my case on a laptop. The Microphone is USB based and simple to use. The D2 generate the pink noise and the ARC software/microphone takes the measurements. After that you could fine tune the target you want to achieve and the ARC calculates the correction parameters required to achieve the target you define and the result is uploaded in the D2.


My personal setup is a real challenge since my house does not allow me to separate movie watching and music listening and does not allow me to insulate the room. Since, I am an audio purist first, my system is optimized for stereo listening using tube amp. The two surrounds and the center are driven by solid state amps and the sub is a REL B2.


Using the RoomEQ improved the bass response mostly in the area around low and low mid(100-500 hz). It added control on the sub that sounded a lot boomy before using RoomEq. The voice channel was also a bit boomy but with the RoomEq it sound more natural. The RoomEq did not really affect the high end. The beauty though is that improvement is done without really degrading the overall audio image and soundstage. You don't get the feel that an extra layer of processing is added. Just amazing!


Overall this is a really features fun to use. If I have to pick on something, I would state that it takes a bit of time to upload the parameters to the D2. But since this will be done only once and a while, it is not a real issue.


During Christmas I put a big Christmas tree in the Room (7 foot height) just beside one of the surround for a party and just run the ARC to optimize the setup with interesting results. This week I changed one of the couches and just re-run the setup. Really cool!


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13054898
> 
> 
> I am using a PS3 as a BD/DVD player with the D2 via HDMI - two questions:
> 
> 
> 1. How do I get the PS3 to output DVDs at 480i? When I turn off scaling it goes to 480p, but I can't seem to figure out how to output 480i, which I believe is recommended for the D2.



The PS3 will not output 480i over HDMI. Is is a well known and documented limitation.


----------



## Tolstoi

Forget to mention, multi-channels SACD and DVD-A listening with RoomEq on just amazing. Level balancing between the different channels is dead on.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Any other hidden features in V1.3? 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion for example? (Hey, one can always hope!)


---------------------------------


As I understand it, if you want to tweak the automatic results what you do is tweak the target response and the Arc redoes its calculations, correct? That's a really REALLY good way to do it in my opinion. Much less likely to get novice users into trouble than if they are tweaking the filter settings themselves.


And the word we've had is that you will take measurements at multiple mic locations to account for different listening positions. Correct? And that they recommend at least a 5 position measurement, but you can go higher -- to 9 or something like that?


Did you have any problems with calculation performance on your laptop?

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13055754
> 
> 
> Any other hidden features in V1.3? 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion for example? (Hey, one can always hope!)
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> As I understand it, if you want to tweak the automatic results what you do is tweak the target response and the Arc redoes its calculations, correct? That's a really REALLY good way to do it in my opinion. Much less likely to get novice users into trouble than if they are tweaking the filter settings themselves.
> 
> 
> And the word we've had is that you will take measurements at multiple mic locations to account for different listening positions. Correct? And that they recommend at least a 5 position measurement, but you can go higher -- to 9 or something like that?
> 
> 
> Did you have any problems with calculation performance on your laptop?
> 
> --Bob



The different measurement locations should close to each other in my case I just cover the main couch with 5 measurements. Make sure the first measurement is centered on the main couch.


You could also optimize for music and movies with different target parameters. For a novice that does not want to deal with target parameters, there is a standard mode that is really simple to use or auto detect could also be used. For more tweaking, there is an advanced mode. There is no performance issue on my laptop and it is a low/mid performance (Pentium M 1.86GHz with 1Gb of RAM).


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13055553
> 
> 
> For those of you having video output problems with version 1.29j Anthem is just about ready to release 1.29k to address that issue. Be patient.
> 
> 
> I'm doing some final testing this weekend and will give you all the information about the ARC that you can pick out of my brain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you have specific questions I'll try to answer.



1.29k is up on the tech site that some of you have access to.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13055754
> 
> 
> Any other hidden features in V1.3? 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion for example? (Hey, one can always hope!)




I forget that part of the question. I was having so much fun with the audio that I didn't play at all with the video aspect.


This week-end I am planning on using the ARC-1 to find tune the sub positioning.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks who have Bass EQ stuff already -- particularly with bass response measurement equipment or even automatic processing as with the Velodyne D series subs or SMC-1 sub EQ product -- does Anthem suggest you get your bass as good as you can get it using the sub-specific product BEFORE running the ARC-1 measurement stuff? Or should you run your sub-specific stuff "flat" and lean on the ARC-1's measurement and processing to do it all?

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.

For those of you who have access to the tech site and want to see the room correction software just download Link 7. Open up the ARC CD.zip file and run AnthemRoom Correction.exe.


Click on Custom/Advanced then Ok.


You can fool around with it from there in the sense that you can look at what settings you choose.


By default the setting is for 5 measurements but you can go up to 10.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13056045
> 
> 
> For folks who have Bass EQ stuff already -- particularly with bass response measurement equipment or even automatic processing as with the Velodyne D series subs or SMC-1 sub EQ product -- does Anthem suggest you get your bass as good as you can get it using the sub-specific product BEFORE running the ARC-1 measurement stuff? Or should you run your sub-specific stuff "flat" and lean on the ARC-1's measurement and processing to do it all?
> 
> --Bob



Nick had advised me that you should EQ. the sub first then run ARC last.


I don't remember his rationale unfortunately.


----------



## jclem

I have an AVM50 which has been working very nicely but I just upgraded my PJ. I now have a Sony VW100. I am sending all sources (DVD, TIVOHD, etc) to the AVM50(most of them have HDMI), and then out to the PJ with one HDMI cable. But which video settings/controls for contrast, brightness, etc do I use--the AVM50's or the Sony PJ's??? If, for example, it's best to use the Sony's, is there a way to "zero out" the AVM50 processing essentially making it a pass-thru, I guess???? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13056045
> 
> 
> For folks who have Bass EQ stuff already -- particularly with bass response measurement equipment or even automatic processing as with the Velodyne D series subs or SMC-1 sub EQ product -- does Anthem suggest you get your bass as good as you can get it using the sub-specific product BEFORE running the ARC-1 measurement stuff? Or should you run your sub-specific stuff "flat" and lean on the ARC-1's measurement and processing to do it all?
> 
> --Bob



It is preferable to not use any of the subwoofer bass management. The D2 should do all the tuning. Therefore, if cannot bypass them, you need to set the X-over frequency to maximum and volume to maximum.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13056112
> 
> 
> Nick had advised me that you should EQ. the sub first then run ARC last.
> 
> 
> I don't remember his rationale unfortunately.



No it is the opposite, the D2 should perform the frequency response.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/13056129
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50 which has been working very nicely but I just upgraded my PJ. I now have a Sony VW100. I am sending all sources (DVD, TIVOHD, etc) to the AVM50(most of them have HDMI), and then out to the PJ with one HDMI cable. But which video settings/controls for contrast, brightness, etc do I use--the AVM50's or the Sony PJ's??? If, for example, it's best to use the Sony's, is there a way to "zero out" the AVM50 processing essentially making it a pass-thru, I guess???? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks



I have a D2 with a VW100.


Use the Anthem for converting everything to 1080p/60 for the VW100.


Brightness and Contrast are down in the VW100 as is any calibration.

The PJ Comes with Software to run on your computer and interfaces

with the Ethernet port in the PJ for doing ISF calibration.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13056079
> 
> 
> For those of you who have access to the tech site and want to see the room correction software just download Link 7. Open up the ARC CD.zip file and run AnthemRoom Correction.exe.
> 
> 
> Click on Custom/Advanced then Ok.
> 
> 
> You can fool around with it from there in the sense that you can look at what settings you choose.
> 
> 
> By default the setting is for 5 measurements but you can go up to 10.



Based on what I'm looking at, D1 owners will be able to run the ARC software as well. There is a software upgrade to 1.29k for D1 (non-HDMI). When I run the ARC software I got a message indicating it couldn't find a D2/D1 to proceed.


Good news for any of you who haven't taken the upgrade path.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13055553
> 
> 
> For those of you having video output problems with version 1.29j Anthem is just about ready to release 1.29k to address that issue. Be patient.
> 
> 
> I'm doing some final testing this weekend and will give you all the information about the ARC that you can pick out of my brain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you have specific questions I'll try to answer.



Thanks, glad to hear it. Nick had told me no more beta versions, so good to hear a potential fix is near.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/13056129
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50 which has been working very nicely but I just upgraded my PJ. I now have a Sony VW100. I am sending all sources (DVD, TIVOHD, etc) to the AVM50(most of them have HDMI), and then out to the PJ with one HDMI cable. But which video settings/controls for contrast, brightness, etc do I use--the AVM50's or the Sony PJ's??? If, for example, it's best to use the Sony's, is there a way to "zero out" the AVM50 processing essentially making it a pass-thru, I guess???? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks



See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post in the collection of links in the first post of this thread for instructions.


The short answer is that you first adjust the display's controls to best reproduce the video test patterns internally generated inside the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Patterns) in response to the video output style you have chosen in the Anthem (Setup / Video Output). These test patterns are independent of any source -- it is best to select an input which is not connected to video at the moment to avoid confusion. They are also generated AFTER the Video Source Adjust / Picture settings for whatever input you select, so those Picture settings don't alter the video sent out to your display by the Patterns. Thus you can concentrate exclusively on getting the display to "best" reproduce the video the Anthem generates. It is the Anthem's job to convert any source input video to that one "best" output video.


Then you use the controls in your source devices and in the Anthem's input setttings (Video Source Adjust / Picture) for EACH input, to fine tune as necessary for each source device.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13056166
> 
> 
> It is preferable to not use any of the subwoofer bass management. The D2 should do all the tuning. Therefore, if cannot bypass them, you need to set the X-over frequency to maximum and volume to maximum.



The Velodyne D series subs have 8 parametric filters in addition to the usual level, cross-over, polarity, and phase stuff. They come with a calibrated mic and a user interface that displays on an S-video TV showing bass response as generated THROUGH your pre-amp. Their software will also automatically adjust the filters, or you can do it manually (which is better since the automatic stuff only sets the filters at fixed - even spaced - frequency center locations, whereas manually you can alter their frequency placement as well).


Given that, I would think it would be best to use the processing power in the Velodyne to handle a good deal of the bass response problems -- leaving the Anthem free to do the rest (and perhaps concentrate more on mid-range problems).


But it's a tough call since I don't know how many filters the Anthem implements or where they might be located.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis

Has anyone found an online dealer that is accepting orders for the ARC-1 yet?


----------



## bgrounds

 http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/1045/ 


Some additional info...


----------



## bgrounds

 http://www.engadgethd.com/2008/01/17...tement-lineup/ 

http://www.marketnews.ca/news_detail.asp?nid=3385 


sorry if these have been posted


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My local Anthem Statement dealer just got a price from Anthem for the ARC-1 upgrade for a D2.


$499


However, production is still committed to the units shipping with new D2 units at the moment. Availability of the ARC-1 as an upgrade is supposed to be "any day now".

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13056461
> 
> 
> The Velodyne D series subs have 8 parametric filters in addition to the usual level, cross-over, polarity, and phase stuff. They come with a calibrated mic and a user interface that displays on an S-video TV showing bass response as generated THROUGH your pre-amp. Their software will also automatically adjust the filters, or you can do it manually (which is better since the automatic stuff only sets the filters at fixed - even spaced - frequency center locations, whereas manually you can alter their frequency placement as well).
> 
> 
> Given that, I would think it would be best to use the processing power in the Velodyne to handle a good deal of the bass response problems -- leaving the Anthem free to do the rest (and perhaps concentrate more on mid-range problems).
> 
> 
> But it's a tough call since I don't know how many filters the Anthem implements or where they might be located.
> 
> --Bob



My tough is that you probably don't want to perform double processing on the audio signal. You could not ask the Anthem to only process on part of the spectrum. It is all or nothing.


Check with Nick I would be curious what is his position on that subject.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13055102
> 
> 
> It is not yet known here whether there are any differences between V1.29j that Anthem tech support is sending out and V1.3 as found in newly shipping D2s.
> 
> 
> My guess is there is no difference. Anthem did the same thing when V1.12 from tech support became V1.2 in newly shipping units.
> 
> 
> HOWEVER, whatever is causing these startup problems for some folks with V1.29j may be due either to differences in the way the factory installs firmware compared to home user installs, or to differences in the hardware between current production units and older units. So it is by no means obvious that folks getting new D2s with V1.3 will have any of these issues.
> 
> 
> I suspect Anthem is now trying to sort out what changes have to be made to V1.29j to get the best results via home firmware installs on older production units. With any luck, when V1.3 finally shows up for public download, it won't have these problems.
> 
> 
> I don't believe we've had any reports yet of any such problems from anyone who has received a new D2 with V1.3 factory installed.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for that explanation Bob.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Do any of you play 2 channel Music with a good CD player through the D2's analog bypass? I was wondering how good the sound quality of 2 channel music is with a Statement D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I suspect it will be easy enough to try it both ways, too! I can easily disable the filters on the Velodyne and let the ARC-1 do the whole thing for comparison. A/B comparison will be a bit tough though, since I use split cross-overs in the Anthem right now (different crossover for sub and mains). But I don't use the Room Response filter in the Anthem, so that's about the only thing standing in the way.


It really comes down to this I suspect: If your bass response happens to ALREADY be perfect, does that free up the ARC-1 to put more corrective power into frequencies higher than the bass region?


The "double processing" thing is a tough call, since at those frequencies I'm thinking the more power you put into fixing room response the better -- i.e., left over room response is more of a problem than processing artifacts resulting from the double processing.


In any event, it is likely still true that improving sub placement or adding room treatments to reduce room bass response problems is still a win -- even if you don't ALSO add in sub filtering as in the Velodyne subs.


I think what I'll do is see how close the ARC-1 gets to the desired target curve with and without the Velodyne filters engaged. That may be the easiest test to see if the Velodyne filters are making it easier for the ARC-1 to do its thing across the entire frequency range.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13056972
> 
> 
> Do any of you play 2 channel Music with a good CD player through the D2's analog bypass? I was wondering how good the sound quality of 2 channel music is with a Statement D2.



It is excellent. For some music I am using a combo CD Transport/DAC (Audiomat Tango 2.5) with good results. When I don't deeper bass for stereo I remove the bypass and go through the Processor to finish with a 2.1 setup. Lot's of flexibility.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13056972
> 
> 
> Do any of you play 2 channel Music with a good CD player through the D2's analog bypass? I was wondering how good the sound quality of 2 channel music is with a Statement D2.



Yep, I use a Meridian G08 with Balanced XLR input into the D2, and then the D2 is in Analog Direct mode for this input. The sound quality is outstanding. I blame the combination of the player, the amp and the speakers (and the D2 for not mucking with it of course!).


-Brian


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13057003
> 
> 
> I suspect it will be easy enough to try it both ways, too! I can easily disable the filters on the Velodyne and let the ARC-1 do the whole thing for comparison. A/B comparison will be a bit tough though, since I use split cross-overs in the Anthem right now (different crossover for sub and mains). But I don't use the Room Response filter in the Anthem, so that's about the only thing standing in the way.
> 
> 
> It really comes down to this I suspect: If your bass response happens to ALREADY be perfect, does that free up the ARC-1 to put more corrective power into frequencies higher than the bass region?
> 
> 
> The "double processing" thing is a tough call, since at those frequencies I'm thinking the more power you put into fixing room response the better -- i.e., left over room response is more of a problem than processing artifacts resulting from the double processing.
> 
> 
> In any event, it is likely still true that improving sub placement or adding room treatments to reduce room bass response problems is still a win -- even if you don't ALSO add in sub filtering as in the Velodyne subs.
> 
> 
> I think what I'll do is see how close the ARC-1 gets to the desired target curve with and without the Velodyne filters engaged. That may be the easiest test to see if the Velodyne filters are making it easier for the ARC-1 to do its thing across the entire frequency range.
> 
> --Bob



There is nothing like experiencing with different combination. Tastes are different too. As stated in previous post I am first an audio maniac and I really don't like when too much processing mess-up the image and soundstage. This is where the D2 shine.


My next step is to work more on speakers' placement (mainly the sub) to try to reduce some of the issues at the source. The ARC Software measurements graph help investigating where the issues are. The bloody REL B2 being 83 pounds will be a lot of fun to move around.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13057140
> 
> 
> It is excellent. For some music I am using a combo CD Transport/DAC (Audiomat Tango 2.5) with good results. When I don't deeper bass for stereo I remove the bypass and go through the Processor to finish with a 2.1 setup. Lot's of flexibility.



Thanks. I so glad to hear that. Next week I'm getting a D2.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/13057229
> 
> 
> Yep, I use a Meridian G08 with Balanced XLR input into the D2, and then the D2 is in Analog Direct mode for this input. The sound quality is outstanding. I blame the combination of the player, the amp and the speakers (and the D2 for not mucking with it of course!).
> 
> 
> -Brian



Glad to hear this Brian. Thanks for your reply.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13057357
> 
> 
> Thanks. I so glad to hear that. Next week I'm getting a D2.



Welcome to the club.


Is it one with the ARC included?


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13056972
> 
> 
> Do any of you play 2 channel Music with a good CD player through the D2's analog bypass? I was wondering how good the sound quality of 2 channel music is with a Statement D2.



I listen to 2 channel music using a modded Roksan CD player and Transparent interconnects. The sound quality is excellent when using the D2/P5 combo.


I have also tried using the Roksan as a transport by sending the signal by coax to the D2 to allow the D2 to do upsampling to 192Khz and D/A processing. I struggle to hear the difference between the 2 set ups.


Does this mean a) the processing capability of the D2 is stereophile quality? or b) the processing of the Roksan is equivilent to the D2? The answer does not really matter because, as I said, the sound is excellent.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13056972
> 
> 
> Do any of you play 2 channel Music with a good CD player through the D2's analog bypass? I was wondering how good the sound quality of 2 channel music is with a Statement D2.



For the performance and price of the D2, having a first-class "Do no harm" pre-amp thrown in is the creamy icing on a very nice cupcake










For all of it's processing prowess, I would not own the D2 if it did not sound as good as it does to me.

To be fair, there are other options but none that come close overall to the D2 for the price.

Feel good about your purchase, you made a wise choice.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13057652
> 
> 
> For the performance and price of the D2, having a first-class "Do no harm" pre-amp thrown in is the creamy icing on a very nice cupcake
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For all of it's processing prowess, I would not own the D2 if it did not sound as good as it does.
> 
> Feel good about your purchase, you made a wise choice.




I see that the reverse way. I bought the D2 first for its sound as a pre/pro. I was hesitating between the D2 and the Bryston SP2. Gee did I pick the right one.....During my test, the SP2 analogue pass-through was a little bit more transparent. Meanwhile, everything else is 3 generation behind compared to the D2. Bryston is not planning on delivering the SP3 (the HDMI version of their SP) before at least 12 months.














By than my D2 will have around 5000 hrs under the hood!


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13040157
> 
> 
> Someone mentioned a price of $300.
> 
> I'm not knocking Anthem but in the past, the early leaks on their pricing have always been cheaper than the reality.
> 
> My guess is ARC will cost $400 not $300.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13056765
> 
> 
> My local Anthem Statement dealer just got a price from Anthem for the ARC-1 upgrade for a D2.
> 
> 
> $499
> 
> --Bob



^^^^^^^^^


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13057392
> 
> 
> Welcome to the club.
> 
> 
> Is it one with the ARC included?



Yes, it's suppose to be. The dealer just got it in. Install Thursday.


----------



## Unclejeff

Yes, once again Bob has pointed yet another newbee in the right direction.


I really don't know quite what I did right, except to assign the right input/output settings, and 'presto'---a great picture via HDMI, no shocking pink, no macro-green.


An unexpected and really wonderful result is now my standard broadcast satellite feeds fill the entire screen with some apparently nice upconversion and it looks fantastic.


----------



## Kruginator

With all the D2's processing power, is it not possible for Anthem to implement the hi-end audio codecs (Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master) in software such that the D2 is used to decode the bitstream signal from Blue-Ray/HD- DVD's?


The D2 already has HDMI1.1 capability (which I am assuming has the bandwidth for these lossless signals) i.e the hardware, what else would be needed other than the requisite software? Or, is their a further piece of hardware required that I am not aware of?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/13060317
> 
> 
> With all the D2's processing power, is it not possible for Anthem to implement the hi-end audio codecs (Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master) in software such that the D2 is used to decode the bitstream signal from Blue-Ray/HD- DVD's?
> 
> 
> The D2 already has HDMI1.1 capability (which I am assuming has the bandwidth for these lossless signals) i.e the hardware, what else would be needed other than the requisite software? Or, is their a further piece of hardware required that I am not aware of?



HDMI V1.1 is not configurable to handle the TrueHD or DTS-HD MA bitstreams. It is both a licensing thing, and also the low level code for dealing with those high bandwidth bitstreams embedded in the HDMI video stream.


That means that changing the D2 to accept those for input would, at the very least, require changing out the chip set that implements the HDMI connection.


In addition, to do more than mere lip-service to HDMI V1.3 would require significant changes in the audio and video data paths throughout the D2 hardware. This would be pretty pointless right now since there's no content that could take advantage of it. Of course there are plenty of HDMI V1.3 products that do just that (lip service) in order to boast the HDMI V1.3 label, but I don't think Anthem feels the need to go that route so long as they can sell D2s faster than they can make them.


So the bottom line is that an HDMI V1.3 product would require a hardware changeout (not just new software), and would probably involve enough of a hardware changeout that it really should be a new product.


A more pressing problem for the D2 is that it can only accept 5.1 channel PCM input instead of 7.1. (The same is true for multi-channel analog audio input.) Unfortunately, that too will require a hardware changeout, and not a trivial one either. Due to the content out there now, this too is at the margins of interest, but is likely to become more interesting sooner than HDMI V1.3's fluff.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/13060240
> 
> 
> Yes, once again Bob has pointed yet another newbee in the right direction.
> 
> 
> I really don't know quite what I did right, except to assign the right input/output settings, and 'presto'---a great picture via HDMI, no shocking pink, no macro-green.
> 
> 
> An unexpected and really wonderful result is now my standard broadcast satellite feeds fill the entire screen with some apparently nice upconversion and it looks fantastic.



As I like to say, "Suddenly! As if by logic!...."


(grin!)


Glad it's working for you now!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13059496
> 
> 
> Yes, it's suppose to be. The dealer just got it in. Install Thursday.



If the dealer just got it from the factory, then it will be a new unit, with the latest software, and the ARC-1.


You lucky dog!

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13060811
> 
> 
> If the dealer just got it from the factory, then it will be a new unit, with the latest software, and the ARC-1.
> 
> 
> You lucky dog!
> 
> --Bob



I'm excited Bob.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

If I wanted to buy a lower cost Blu-ray player I could sell in about 5 months, what would you buy to hook up to the D2? I want to eventually get the next generation Pioneer Elite Blu-ray which will be out this summer. I've been told everything from the Samsung 1400 to the Sony 300 to the PS3. Any opinions? Or should I wait about 5 months till it comes out? It will be a tough wait but I hear the D2 does make most standard DVD players look great.


----------



## EL




> Quote:
> A more pressing problem for the D2 is that it can only accept 5.1 channel PCM input instead of 7.1. (The same is true for multi-channel analog audio input.) Unfortunately, that too will require a hardware changeout, and not a trivial one either. Due to the content out there now, this too is at the margins of interest, but is likely to become more interesting sooner than HDMI V1.3's fluff.



Since the main problem for that are the two motorola DSP(Freescale now?), a "simple" DSP board update (like the AVM20 had, to support ... I don't recall what though) should do the trick. (Plus some software of course)

I asked Anthem in the past but I got the clear message it was not at the time their prioority. Maybe it will change as more and more title are in 7.1


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13061151
> 
> 
> If I wanted to buy a lower cost Blu-ray player I could sell in about 5 months, what would you buy to hook up to the D2? I want to eventually get the next generation Pioneer Elite Blu-ray which will be out this summer. I've been told everything from the Samsung 1400 to the Sony 300 to the PS3. Any opinions? Or should I wait about 5 months till it comes out? It will be a tough wait but I hear the D2 does make most standard DVD players look great.



PS3 all the way.


----------



## LEVESQUE

New ARC-1 info








 

D2_ARC_PDS.pdf 186.5439453125k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13061151
> 
> 
> If I wanted to buy a lower cost Blu-ray player I could sell in about 5 months, what would you buy to hook up to the D2? I want to eventually get the next generation Pioneer Elite Blu-ray which will be out this summer. I've been told everything from the Samsung 1400 to the Sony 300 to the PS3. Any opinions? Or should I wait about 5 months till it comes out? It will be a tough wait but I hear the D2 does make most standard DVD players look great.



The only Blu-Ray player that has any chance of retaining any resale value in that time frame is, I think, the PS3.


Things are moving too fast in the standalone players for current players to generate any resale interest from folks likely to buy Blu-Ray this summer. And any remaining stock of current players will also likely be drastically price reduced.


I don't think the PS3 is the best player, or even the cheapest. Just the only one likely to have any resale value. You will have to deal with it's oddball remote control situation of course.

--Bob


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13060797
> 
> 
> HDMI V1.1 is not configurable to handle the TrueHD or DTS-HD MA bitstreams. It is both a licensing thing, and also the low level code for dealing with those high bandwidth bitstreams embedded in the HDMI video stream.
> 
> 
> That means that changing the D2 to accept those for input would, at the very least, require changing out the chip set that implements the HDMI connection.
> 
> 
> In addition, to do more than mere lip-service to HDMI V1.3 would require significant changes in the audio and video data paths throughout the D2 hardware. This would be pretty pointless right now since there's no content that could take advantage of it. Of course there are plenty of HDMI V1.3 products that do just that (lip service) in order to boast the HDMI V1.3 label, but I don't think Anthem feels the need to go that route so long as they can sell D2s faster than they can make them.
> 
> 
> So the bottom line is that an HDMI V1.3 product would require a hardware changeout (not just new software), and would probably involve enough of a hardware changeout that it really should be a new product.
> 
> 
> A more pressing problem for the D2 is that it can only accept 5.1 channel PCM input instead of 7.1. (The same is true for multi-channel analog audio input.) Unfortunately, that too will require a hardware changeout, and not a trivial one either. Due to the content out there now, this too is at the margins of interest, but is likely to become more interesting sooner than HDMI V1.3's fluff.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


I know from previous posts, the whole HDMI v1.1 vs 1.3 has been discussed as it relates to the D2 on the audio side, and Bob, you confirmed what I thought the answer might be with regards to trying to enable 1.3 audio functionality via a potential software upgrade.


So, while on the subject of HDMI 1.1 vs 1.3 and hardware upgrades, and extending the discussion to video, is the Gennum VXP processor (now sold to Sigma) capable of being used to exploit the video functionality of HDMI v1.3? I understand the VXP is a 10-bit processor in the current 8-bit environment, while HDMI 1.3 handles 10-, 12- and 16-bit i.e. Deep Color or whatever you want to call it. I am bearing in mind that availability of material at these bitrates is a different subject altogether.


The reason for asking is as follows:

1. Marantz is using the VXP processor in a HDMI v1.3 compliant projector http://ca.marantz.com/Products/2009.asp . So I am assuming that the VXP processor is 1.3 compliant.

2. While I understand the hardware limitations of the HDMI v1.1 vs 1.3 on the audio side, if Anthem were to design a 1.3 compliant D2, could it use the existing VXP processor thereby potentially offering the 1.3 conversion as an upgrade to existing D2 owners? My logic being is that the VXP processor (a major selling point, and one of the reasons I bought the D2) is already 1.3 compliant/capable if 1. above is valid. Hence from a marketing perspective, Anthem could offer the 1.3 upgrade at a lower price than buying a whole new D2. Maybe this falls in to the wishful thing dept?


I am comfortable with the 1.1 vs 1.3 debate as it pertains to the D2, so this is more about setting expectations and planning for the future a few years hence.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well you have to change out the video board anyway since that's where the HDMI stuff is implemented I believe, so there's no real point in worrying about whether the VXP would still be used on any such new board.


The problem with answering such questions is that HDMI V1.3 has lots of optional features. All the higher bandwidth stuff is optional for example. So you could use essentially an HDMI V1.1 audio/video design with HDMI V1.3 driver chips and all the optional stuff disabled and call yourself HDMI V1.3.


And going through the engineering effort to "do it right" is kind of pointless for the next couple years since whatever you try to do will be content limited. Oh there's minor stuff like the device control stuff and responding to audio delay requests from the display, but the video side is just fluff right now.


The only thing that would drive Anthem to have to do it faster would be if player manufacturers decide to stop making players with internal lossless decoders. And that doesn't look likely.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13061919
> 
> 
> The only Blu-Ray player that has any chance of retaining any resale value in that time frame is, I think, the PS3.
> 
> 
> Things are moving too fast in the standalone players for current players to generate any resale interest from folks likely to buy Blu-Ray this summer. And any remaining stock of current players will also likely be drastically price reduced.
> 
> 
> I don't think the PS3 is the best player, or even the cheapest. Just the only one likely to have any resale value. You will have to deal with it's oddball remote control situation of course.
> 
> --Bob



I agree with you, Stand Alone blu-Ray player have no resales value. Thanks to the profile mess.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/13061859
> 
> 
> New ARC-1 info



You where faster than me on that one


----------



## Ian_Currie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13061919
> 
> 
> I don't think the PS3 is the best player, or even the cheapest. Just the only one likely to have any resale value. You will have to deal with it's oddball remote control situation of course.
> 
> --Bob



I guess this is slightly off topic here, but I'm curious: resale value aside, what IS better than the PS3? I'm not challenging this so much as very curious. I love the PS3's speed and navigation and upgrade ability, but I have a very large screen and am seeing a lot of noise that I've been wondering if another player would have improved picture quality.


Anyone?


----------



## drmabuse

Hi friends,

I thought I would post briefly about my ARC-1 impressions. I run a 7.1 system that includes Paradigm Reference all the way around and two Martin Logan subs. Taming bass has been a lifelong mission and the ARC-1 has done an extraordinary job of that. My home theatre room is designed to be just that, long with no windows or obstructions but the room is not huge and the ceilings are only about 7' as it is in the basement of my bungalow.


I am primarily a music lover however my system also doubles for home theatre as movies are almost as important to me. I was (before Anthem) a 2 channel music guy but the AL-music setting changed my mind about that. I have previously owned an AVM2, AVM20 and now the D2. I do virtually all my music listening in this mode.


As for the ARC-1, I was on the beta testing group and went through various incarnations but will only comment on the actual finished product.


The laptop program and subsequent software installation are easy and seem to work fine. I have had instances of it failing to initialize but a second try has usually worked. (I use a laptop with an actual serial port as I have had a lot of problems with USB-serial adaptors).


The process is simple and the entire measurement-upload takes under 1/2 hour. This is for the automated procedure not the manual one.


After installation I was shocked at how my settings changed from where I had things previous. I used the Radio Shack SPL in the past and thought I was doing OK...the ARC-1 DRAMATICALLY changed my sound.

Bass is more subtle, I can define actual lower register notes being played with great clairty. The movies also BOOM only when they need to. I should note, based on a previous post, I listen to all things FLAT, meaning bass and treble are on defeat and not used. I won't get into any IMHO stuff here, this is just the way I listen.


I noticed also a fantastic improvement on the mid-range in music production. I have my fave CD's that I use to test my system and I actually noticed a couple of subtleties that I had never heard before!!!!!


The imaging of the "vocal centre" also seemed to be improved for me.


I think a lot of these improvements had to do with crossovers which I always struggle with but that is what the ARC-1 is supposed to do right? This makes setting up your room a snap and as with all Anthem product - does it right!


I should think that the ARC-1 will be yet another improvement on the D2 that is going to put it way ahead of the competition. If you are a current D2 owner, I can't imagine not having this. I just want to keep "rediscovering" my CD/SACD/DVD-A collection - it made that much difference.


/\\/\\


----------



## ASW

I installed 1.29k this morning. LIke 1.29j, lots of fails ("unable to exit debug mode").


I finally got it loaded and it worked fine initially. In fact, it cured all of the previous firmware's problem with my S3 Tivo when it switches video format from 480i to 720p to 1080i.


However, after the unit was off for a few hours, I had the same old no video problem. I am sure this is a a video input problem, rather than an output problem - the status screen on the D2 shows no video signal. Several power downs got my video back. I just tried re-installing 1.29k and will see if a reinstall fixes things.


I might want to try to use "flash eraser" if I have problems on this install and try yet another reinstall before going back to 1.21d. If I use flash eraser, will it erase my saved "user settings?"


----------



## dschamis

What is supposed to be new in 1.29k?


----------



## ASW

It is supposed to fix the video problem some (like me) are having with 1.29j. With me the problem is not solved.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm not certain, but I think it likely Flash Eraser will, indeed, erase any Saved User Settings or Saved Installer Settings. Presuming they didn't give you a Setup Editor as well that works with V1.29k, you will likely need to write down and manually re-enter your settings.


In addition to the Setup Menu stuff, don't forget the settings in the Video Source Adjust menu panels for each input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/13062025
> 
> 
> I guess this is slightly off topic here, but I'm curious: resale value aside, what IS better than the PS3? I'm not challenging this so much as very curious. I love the PS3's speed and navigation and upgrade ability, but I have a very large screen and am seeing a lot of noise that I've been wondering if another player would have improved picture quality.
> 
> 
> Anyone?



If I had to buy a Blu-Ray player today, I would likely go with the latest one from Pioneer (the 95). However, the Denon 3800 is supposed to be out in just a couple weeks. Then the new Panasonic 50 and Pioneer 05 later.


Do not expect ANY standalone player you buy today to receive upgrades that will bring it up to the level of the eventual Profile 2.0 players. I'm particularly disappointed, for example, that the Pioneer 05 (Profile 1.1) is not even spec'ed to include an ethernet port.


I would avoid the current Panasonic 30 (or 10), as Panasonic doesn't seem to be having any luck finding a proper fix for its 5dB low LFE problem on HDMI PCM, and I would run away, run far away, from the dual format (HD-DVD & Blu-Ray) players.


Be aware that unlike with HD-DVD players, the current crop of standalone Blu-Ray players are no great shakes at standard DVD de-interlacing and scaling. So be sure to look for a player that will let you do HDMI 480i output to the Anthem for standard DVDs (or use an alternate player for that). Even so, there are things it is possible for a player to screw up on standard DVD playback at HDMI 480i, and I suspect some of these fail at some of that as well. I haven't dug into the reports at Secrets of Home Theater, but what I've heard bandied about in posts here has not been encouraging.


It's really quite annoying. If there was any justice, HD-DVD would win simply because the entire Blu-Ray consortium seems to be constantly, repeatedly, and aggressively shooting themselves in the foot. But there's no doubt in my mind that HD-DVD has lost.


Just to pull this back on topic, for use with the D2 or AVM-50 you want an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player that internally decodes TrueHD or DTS-HD MA lossless audio packing formats into HDMI PCM to send to the Anthem. So for example, the recently shipping Denon 2500 is *NOT* a good choice.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13063712
> 
> 
> I'm not certain, but I think it likely Flash Eraser will, indeed, erase any Saved User Settings or Saved Installer Settings. Presuming they didn't give you a Setup Editor as well that works with V1.29k, you will likely need to write down and manually re-enter your settings.
> 
> 
> In addition to the Setup Menu stuff, don't forget the settings in the Video Source Adjust menu panels for each input.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah - I figured. After having to reset all my settings manually last week, I just decided to roll back to 1.21d. Now all is well again.


Whatever is going on with this video issue and 1.29x, I am sure it is on the input side - when I have no video with 1.29x, the DS status screen reports "no video signal."


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ASW,

You may be right, but if the source decides the connection all the way to the display is not HDCP compliant, it may mute the signal to the Anthem. Which would mean the problem could still be on the display side.


Anyway, Anthem is on the case, and I'm sure they'll close in on whatever has become the crucial difference between the d and now k versions.


I presume you are running your HDMI inputs with Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO and with Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF, correct?


And since the latest version added 2 additional Video Output configurations, also double check that the correct one is the one that is selected in the Setup / Source Setup for each input. Also double check that the Preferred, Data Format, and Sync settings are still what you expected them to be in the Video Output configuration you are using, just in case the update process messed something up there. I'd be particularly suspicious of the Sync setting. The correct Sync setting should show you a good image that does NOT require any significant amount of horizontal adjustment in the settings in your display.


Also, see if you can find out what your HDMI sources think they are trying to do when the video fails. For example, have they reverted to trying to send out 480p instead of 720p or 1080i. This would point to a failure to read the configuration choices from the Anthem. If that's the case, you might try changing HDMI Repeater to YES just to see if that makes the source happier. It shouldn't, but if it does, that would be useful additional information for Anthem.


These are all just guesses of course, while waiting for Anthem to do their thing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drmabuse,

Thanks for the ARC write up!


I'm curious, were you using any sort of Bass EQ processing (external to the Anthem) prior to using ARC, and if so, did you find it best to disable it when you switched to using ARC?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13063805
> 
> 
> If I had to buy a Blu-Ray player today, I would likely go with the latest one from Pioneer (the 95). However, the Denon 3800 is supposed to be out in just a couple weeks. Then the new Panasonic 50 and Pioneer 05 later.
> 
> 
> Do not expect ANY standalone player you buy today to receive upgrades that will bring it up to the level of the eventual Profile 2.0 players. I'm particularly disappointed, for example, that the Pioneer 05 (Profile 1.1) is not even spec'ed to include an ethernet port.



Great analysis as usual - Bob.


I have had the Pioneer BDP-HD1 since DAY ONE - Pioneer has

done a great job with all their models providing many FW updates

to keep them going with the ever changing content on the

Blu-Ray movies. I don't think any of the Pioneer models have

had any real BUGS like many of the other brands.


I also agree any player you BUY today will at some point be

out-of-date with the newer profiles. The only thing to consider

is do you need the extra cute stuff in the newer profiles.


I saw all the ADVANCED features at the Blu-Ray booth at CES.

I must admit - they delivered some wow factor - but I didn't see

one that I would actually use. JUST PLAY the movie and DECODE

the audio is all I need. All the rest of the newer features are

just cute gimmicks some Engineer Dreamed Up










And there is just no way I could ever justify the Denon Price.

1080p is 1080p and Decoding the Lossless audio is an all

digital computation. There is just no measurable difference

the Denon can deliver for their Elevated Price.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13063409
> 
> 
> It is supposed to fix the video problem some (like me) are having with 1.29j. With me the problem is not solved.



I installed 1.29k last night, and so far I have gotten video output on every startup.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Krops,

Did you have any problems getting the install to complete without error? I'm wondering whether ASW's problem might be related to his difficulty getting this install to take. One of the programmable parts in his unit might be faulty.


Also, have you had the unit powered off overnight yet? Apparently ASW's problems are more likely to happen from a cold start.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13063907
> 
> 
> drmabuse,
> 
> Thanks for the ARC write up!
> 
> 
> I'm curious, were you using any sort of Bass EQ processing (external to the Anthem) prior to using ARC, and if so, did you find it best to disable it when you switched to using ARC?
> 
> --Bob



Hey Bob,

I have the Velodyne SMS-1 but chose to disconnect it. Thought it would introduce additional processing into the mix that I didn't need. The ARC-1 seems to have totally tamed the "bass monster".

I think I will be selling my SMS-1.

/\\/\\


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13063968
> 
> 
> Krops,
> 
> Did you have any problems getting the install to complete without error? I'm wondering whether ASW's problem might be related to his difficulty getting this install to take. One of the programmable parts in his unit might be faulty.
> 
> 
> Also, have you had the unit powered off overnight yet? Apparently ASW's problems are more likely to happen from a cold start.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob, didn't have any problems with the upgrade. I used a 50' serial cable from a PC.


Here was my process:

Save user settings (had 1.29j before)
Reset to factory defaults
Turn off all sources
Turn off the D2 using the switch in the rear
Wait 30 seconds
Turn on the D2 using the switch in the rear
Run 1.29k firmware installer. Installer completed without error.
Load user settings.


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13063805
> 
> 
> ...and I would run away, run far away, from the dual format (HD-DVD & Blu-Ray) players.



Before completely writing off the dual-format high-def players, consider the Samsung BD-UP5000 player, even as just a Blu-Ray player (since HD-DVD is likely to fade away over time). I've had this player for nearly 2 months, and can report how it works with my D2 and JVC DLA-RS1 projector on a 133-inch screen.


For video image quality, it can't be beat. The built-in HQV Reon processor does an equally fine job to the D2's Gennum VXP on upscaling and de-interlacing of standard DVDs, so concerns that it won't output 480i to the D2 for de-interlacing don't matter -- you just set the 5000 to 1080p output (including 24fps) and forget it. People who have compared the Samsung to PS3, Panasonic, or other Blu-Ray players all claim the Samsung has the best image.


For audio quality, the issue is that Samsung has not yet offered firmware to completely implement TrueHD (beyond 2 channels) or DTS-HD MA beyond the compressed core audio. But all reports are that they will come through with these updates by May, with Samsung (like LG) waiting on Broadcom to deliver updated firmware for its chipset. Once this happens, the player should be able to decode all the audio formats internally, making it an ideal match to the D2's HDMI 1.1 LPCM inputs. (The 7.1 analog outputs on the Samsung aren't needed for the D2, but would be useful for anyone with a D1 or other non-HDMI pre-pro.)


The Samsung BD-UP5000 is only specified to support Blu-Ray 1.1 profile, but it has the important Ethernet interface (required by HD-DVD players) and lacks only enough internal memory to conform to the 2.0 profile; the player may be able to access additional external storage for that based on the existing menus. The Ethernet interface can also be used for firmware updates.


So -- I'll have to wait until May to see if Samsung comes through on delivering the missing audio codecs. But if I bought another Blu-Ray player, I'd have to wait almost until then to get something that can internally decode all the codecs as needed to work with my D2. In the meantime, the picture is spectacular, and I can still listen to the uncompressed PCM audio tracks on most Blu-Ray discs.


- Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drmabuse,

Thanks, that's pretty amazing. The Velodyne SMC-1 is a great unit.


I've got a Velodyne D-series sub (which has similar processing built in). The automated solution Velodyne includes is no great shakes in my opinion (at least for the problems in my listening room), but with time and patience, the manually adjustable settings can produce great results. I've been very pleased with my bass up to now using the Velodyne's bass EQ (manually tweaked over a period of weeks). The difference between using it and just letting my room do its own thing is really huge. And the Anthem's limited controls for bass EQ (up to now) couldn't come close.


But I've known all along that my room also has problems in low midrange which the Velodyne stuff can't touch. And I suspect that the solution I'm using in the Velodyne may actually be exacerbating some of those issues in the region just above the cross over.


I'll be very interested to see what happens if I turn off the stuff in the Velodyne sub (leave it completely "flat" and with its internal cross-over disabled) and let the ARC do it all. I think my room will be a challenge for ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More questions for ARC users:


1) Do you still need to specify whether your sub is THX Ultra-2 compliant (i.e., goes extra deep -- down into the sub-sonic range of very low Hz)? And do need to specify whether Boundary Gain Compensation should be engaged in that case? Or does the ARC figure all that out automatically?


2) And I'm assuming that having to do manual adjustment of things like Polarity and Phase for the sub will also be a thing of the past when using ARC, correct?


3) How about the Anthem's "Center EQ" function. Is this something that you still set by ear, or does the ARC take over on that as well.


4) And finally, does ARC do well in cases where people are running more than one subwoofer off the Anthem? I presume ARC is still limited by the fact that there is only one cross-over, polarity, phase, and level setting in the Anthem that has to apply to all of the subs together. Is there any support for figuring out how to make manual adjustments in the controls of each sub (Polarity and Phase in particular) to provide the best compromise when combined with the one setting the Anthem provides? Is there perhaps a multi-step process where you separately measure each sub alone and then re-measure the combo?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/13064181
> 
> 
> So -- I'll have to wait until May to see if Samsung comes through on delivering the missing audio codecs.
> 
> 
> - Dave


*Samsung sued for defective Blu-ray players*


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13061151
> 
> 
> If I wanted to buy a lower cost Blu-ray player I could sell in about 5 months, what would you buy to hook up to the D2? I want to eventually get the next generation Pioneer Elite Blu-ray which will be out this summer. I've been told everything from the Samsung 1400 to the Sony 300 to the PS3. Any opinions? Or should I wait about 5 months till it comes out? It will be a tough wait but I hear the D2 does make most standard DVD players look great.



You've already had a couple people say PS3. +1 here on that.


----------



## abc999

Anybody got the ARC add-on kit instead of being bundled with the NEW D2?


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13065283
> 
> 
> You've already had a couple people say PS3. +1 here on that.



I was one that didn't think the PS3 was for me, but after getting it, it is awesome.


Michael


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/13065787
> 
> 
> I was one that didn't think the PS3 was for me, but after getting it, it is awesome.
> 
> 
> Michael



Never had a doubt with the PS3. Its still the best value blu-ray player out there 14 months and counting.


----------



## ASW

I may have goitten my D2 working with 1.29k.


1. Reinstalled softwarefor Keyspan 19HS USB-DB9 adapter.


2. Reflashed from 1.21d to 1.29k - this time (and for the first time with 1.29x) no fails.


3. So far so good. Have not lost video even after several hours with D2 off. I will have to see how it does tomorrow morning after being off over night.


4. Ordered a PCMCIA DB9 port for my laptop to avoid future upgrade isssues in case this was a case of a bad flash caused by the Keyspan adapter.



Alan


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13065841
> 
> 
> Never had a doubt with the PS3. Its still the best value blu-ray player out there 14 months and counting.



THe PS3 is a good value blu-ray. Sony has done a good job of updating firmware and adding features. For the cost of an inexpensive blu-ray player, you also get a good gaming machine. Only downsides to me are:


1. Stupid blue tooth remote (I use a Nyko IR adapter to integrate into my system controlled by an RTI T4 remote, but performance is not perfect).


2. REALLY stupid that stupid blue tooth remote does not have an on/off key (I have seen at Remotecentral.com that someone developed what looks to be a better IR solution than the Nyko IR dongle WITH on/off functionality and PS2 IR codes).


3. The PS3 runs HOT (when on, it increases the temp in my rack by at least 10 degrees), and noisy.


4. The PS3's shape doesn't look great rack-mounted.


----------



## PooperScooper

Please, lets keep the BD player talk in the BD player forums. Thanks.


larry


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/13068387
> 
> 
> Please, lets keep the BD player talk in the BD player forums. Thanks.
> 
> 
> larry



I am never one to argue with a moderator, but I would say that this BD discussion is based on which BD players are best for use with the Anthem D2, which is quite relevant to the thread.


Just my $0.02.


----------



## rx-8




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/13068387
> 
> 
> Please, lets keep the BD player talk in the BD player forums. Thanks.
> 
> 
> larry





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13068402
> 
> 
> I am never one to argue with a moderator, but I would say that this BD discussion is based on which BD players are best for use with the Anthem D2, which is quite relevant to the thread.
> 
> 
> Just my $0.02.



PooperScooper...no disrespect but dschamis makes a good point.


----------



## ASW

Powered up this morning. No video until 6 or 7 power cycles. Back to 1.21d all is well again.


----------



## earwit

In regards to what Hi-def player works well with the D2 1.29j,

I'm also using the multi player Samsung BD-UP5000, having

great results for Blu-Ray and Hd-DVD , which the hope is that by

May it will internally decode DTS-HD and True-Hd. This player

is a good option for those who already own alot of both Hi-def

formats and want one player to use with the D2...


Looking forward to Arching my Media Room


Bob


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13068440
> 
> 
> Powered up this morning. No video until 6 or 7 power cycles. Back to 1.21d all is well again.



Might I suggest







that you reload 1.29k again and try one thing? Before you power up the D2, turn off the power in the back (and then of course turn it back on). Mine has had an issue with shutting itself off on power-up since I had it upgraded. I blame the software (being a EE / SW / FW Engineer - I can do that







). In other words, I believe there is a variable (or a few) which really should be reset when the unit its turned off that is not. Then there is some sort of race condition as to if it will cause problems. YMMV - but I would be VERY curious if you have the time and don't mind checking (if we can get the info back to Nick it might help)...


On another note: I like the idea of yours for the serial ports. You can get both types of laptop and all 3 types of PC in a "real" serial port. I use a real one (16550 based) and have never had a problem. It actually is fairly hard to get a really reliable serial communication program working under uSloth. I have one that is pretty bulletproof, but it took a while to get it "just right".


----------



## Jean_Pierre

First let me tell you that I picked-up my new D2 yesterday and am very impressed with it. I was able to quickly set it up and both Video & Audio performance exeeds my expectations.


Second, I have been lurking this forum for a while and learn a lot from its contributors and would like to thank you for the great insight I got from your posts.


One function does not seem to be working: the Room Resonance Filter in the speaker configuraiton menu. I cannot generate the Test Tone in either Auto or Manual mode (The Test Tone is working in the Speaker Calibration).


My 5-speakers configuration is set to Large, I do not have a subwoofer.

I do not know if the room resonance filter can make in impact for my configuration but I like to test all functions when I receive new equipment. Also note that it has happened in the past that I had a brain freeze and cannot quite figure out a simple issues. Hopefully this is so.


I have firmware v1.21 (no ARC)


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13065458
> 
> 
> Anybody got the ARC add-on kit instead of being bundled with the NEW D2?



Hi,

the ARC add-on and the one included with new D2's are identical - even in the same box.

/\\/\\


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13064273
> 
> 
> More questions for ARC users:
> 
> 
> 1) Do you still need to specify whether your sub is THX Ultra-2 compliant (i.e., goes extra deep -- down into the sub-sonic range of very low Hz)? And do need to specify whether Boundary Gain Compensation should be engaged in that case? Or does the ARC figure all that out automatically?
> 
> 
> 2) And I'm assuming that having to do manual adjustment of things like Polarity and Phase for the sub will also be a thing of the past when using ARC, correct?
> 
> 
> 3) How about the Anthem's "Center EQ" function. Is this something that you still set by ear, or does the ARC take over on that as well.
> 
> 
> 4) And finally, does ARC do well in cases where people are running more than one subwoofer off the Anthem? I presume ARC is still limited by the fact that there is only one cross-over, polarity, phase, and level setting in the Anthem that has to apply to all of the subs together. Is there any support for figuring out how to make manual adjustments in the controls of each sub (Polarity and Phase in particular) to provide the best compromise when combined with the one setting the Anthem provides? Is there perhaps a multi-step process where you separately measure each sub alone and then re-measure the combo?
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


you are much more technically adept than I am but I will try to answer as best I can...


1) These choices are still there needless to say however I assume ARC looks after all of this - my impression is when you turn on the Room EQ option in the Source Setup the ARC settings take over. Nick may know the THX question...


2)They should be - my understanding is ARC looks after all of that. I even tried running the program with my subs at different volumes and settings and inevitably got the same results on the graphs.


3) My understanding is, and I think I read this in one of the early tester emails, the Centre EQ function is unavailable when Room EQ is turned on.


4) You are right, there are no ways to deal with more than one sub (I run 2). Graphs and readings refer to only one. Quite honestly though, this does not appear to have caused any issues with my set up. Both subs are playing fine and I am not sensing any sort of imbalance. Again this is my sense of things and based on the way the ARC works I have to think the sub setting is applied to both. I am using 2 Martin Logan Depths.


Any other questions I am happy to try to answer but once again I am a novice when compared to a lot of the gurus in here!










/\\/\\


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13064398
> 
> *Samsung sued for defective Blu-ray players*



I can say, as a BD-P1200 owner, that I am not surprised. The BD-P1200 is a POS. I will never buy any Samsung product again. I have been complaining to Samsung about the 1200 since Oct. 07. When I initially complained to them, they told me that a firmware update would be out in two weeks. Well, four months later, they finally put out a firmware update (2.1) for the 1200. Well guess what, it still didn't fix my problems. I still have drop-out in the audio and POTC3 still doesn't play. It gets stuck at the SKULL. Personally, I will never buy a Samsung product again. I don't care how good the picture quality is which doesn't matter if the thing doesn't play the movie. Anyway, I probably will be switching to the BD50 or to the Pioneer later in the year anyway.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jean_Pierre* /forum/post/13069167
> 
> 
> First let me tell you that I picked-up my new D2 yesterday and am very impressed with it. I was able to quickly set it up and both Video & Audio performance exeeds my expectations.
> 
> 
> Second, I have been lurking this forum for a while and learn a lot from its contributors and would like to thank you for the great insight I got from your posts.
> 
> 
> One function does not seem to be working: the Room Resonance Filter in the speaker configuraiton menu. I cannot generate the Test Tone in either Auto or Manual mode (The Test Tone is working in the Speaker Calibration).
> 
> 
> My 5-speakers configuration is set to Large, I do not have a subwoofer.
> 
> I do not know if the room resonance filter can make in impact for my configuration but I like to test all functions when I receive new equipment. Also note that it has happened in the past that I had a brain freeze and cannot quite figure out a simple issues. Hopefully this is so.
> 
> 
> I have firmware v1.21 (no ARC)



Go to the Setup / Room Resonance Filter menu. After switching the first menu item to Manual (or Auto), scroll down into the menu to any of the various lines for setting the values for the filter or the test sweep. The test tone will take a moment to load and should then begin. Until you scroll down in that menu you won't have any test tone.


I haven't actually tried using this feature in a setup where no subwoofer is specified (but main speakers are configured as "large), so I'm not certain it is available, but I see no reason why Anthem would have disabled it in that case.


Use the Test Level line to get the overall test volume at a suitable level for measurement with your Radio Shack SPL meter -- target about 70 to 75 db when the tone is around 80Hz for example. Generally, the Test Level setting will be a few dB up or down from 0dB.


Be aware that if the current Test Frequency is below what your speakers can reproduce, then you won't hear anything. So make sure it is up around, say 80 Hz while you are trying to see if the feature works at all. In Manual test mode, go to that line and Select it and alter the Test Freq setting with the arrow keys. In Auto test mode, wait for it to sweep around to the upper frequencies again. Personally, I always use Manual mode.


Also remember to change the Apply Filter setting to YES to engage the filter settings. Otherwise you won't see any change in measurements when you change the filter settings. Apply Filter can be YES or NO to hear the test tones, so you can rapidly compare measurements with or without the filter engaged.


===================================


EDITED TO ADD: It occurs to me that the Anthem would have to do steering of the test tones to the main speakers for this test to work without a sub, and also that the frequency sweep upper limit is set according to the current Sub Crossover setting. Both of which may mean Anthem has disabled this test if you don't have a sub configured into the system. You may need to send an email to Anthem tech support to clarify if this is supposed to work or not in your setup.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13069334
> 
> 
> Anyway, I probably will be switching to the BD50 or to the Pioneer later in the year anyway.



I know the BD50 is NOT OUT YET - just be aware that

all the other Panasonic Blu-Ray player models before

the BD50 all have a LFE Bug that Panasonic has not

fixed yet. The *speculation* is the BD50 will have the

same bug. But that is just a guess. I would chose the

Pioneer over the Panny for Safety Sake.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drmabuse,

I believe if you have all of your subs set to the same Polarity and Phase (using the controls built into the subs themselves), then the ARC should be able to adjust ITS Polarity and Phase results for the one subwoofer output of the Anthem to make things work right.


But I'm not certain of that. Short of dealing with an engineering problem in one of the subs, I can't think of a good reason why varying either the Polarity or Phase from sub to sub (in the sub's internal controls) would help the setup -- assuming the subs are identical models. If the subs are different models, however, the meaning of the Polarity and Phase settings in one sub might easily be different from another sub.


It's been a while, but my recollection was that there was a whole procedure with the Velodyne SMC-1 (for doing multiple subwoofer setups) that involved some testing with just one subwoofer at a time, or perhaps just with the main sub, and then with the combo of subs. Since you've got an SMC-1 you may have the details on that. It is possible there may be some info in the SMC write up that would help clarify the best way to use the Anthem ARC system with multiple subs.


--------------------------------


My guess would be that you DO have to specify to the Anthem if you have a THX Ultra 2 sub, since that probably configures the Anthem to allow even lower frequencies to go to the sub without being attenuated by the sub-sonic filter which is undoubtedly in the Anthem's output to protect the sub from really REALLY low frequency stuff (below 10Hz say).


The Boundary Gain adjustment is in the Anthem to compensate for sub placement near a wall when you have a sub that can go that deep. I think the ARC might be able to do that part automatically, but I'm not sure whether setting or clearing that setting in the Anthem menu would make the ARC's job easier.


I haven't seen the manual pages on the ARC yet. But we may need to get some clarification from Anthem on some of these.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/13069021
> 
> 
> Might I suggest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that you reload 1.29k again and try one thing? Before you power up the D2, turn off the power in the back (and then of course turn it back on). Mine has had an issue with shutting itself off on power-up since I had it upgraded. I blame the software (being a EE / SW / FW Engineer - I can do that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). In other words, I believe there is a variable (or a few) which really should be reset when the unit its turned off that is not. Then there is some sort of race condition as to if it will cause problems. YMMV - but I would be VERY curious if you have the time and don't mind checking (if we can get the info back to Nick it might help)...



Joe, are you doing this prior to EVERY power up now? Or just the first time after loading new software?


And if you are doing it every time (presumably, now, without having any power on problems when you power up with the remote after cycling the back panel power switch), have you tried recently just trying to turn on with the remote to see if your problem has gone away?

--Bob


----------



## Jean_Pierre

Thanks for the reply Bob.


The steps you indicated is what I was doing. I changed the speakers to small, and tried it again in manual mode, scrolled down, adjusted the freq to 78 then waited a few minutes (also tried different freq). Cannot get it to generate a tone.


Can it be a bug with 1.21??


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13069694
> 
> 
> I know the BD50 is NOT OUT YET - just be aware that
> 
> all the other Panasonic Blu-Ray player models before
> 
> the BD50 all have a LFE Bug that Panasonic has not
> 
> fixed yet. The *speculation* is the BD50 will have the
> 
> same bug. But that is just a guess. I would chose the
> 
> Pioneer over the Panny for Safety Sake.



Yes, that's right. The Panasonic does have that bug. If the BD50 still has that bug, then I will definitely not go with it. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jean_Pierre* /forum/post/13069755
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply Bob.
> 
> 
> The steps you indicated is what I was doing. I changed the speakers to small, and tried it again in manual mode, scrolled down, adjusted the freq to 78 then waited a few minutes (also tried different freq). Cannot get it to generate a tone.
> 
> 
> Can it be a bug with 1.21??



I suspect this test is just disabled since you don't have a sub in your system (see the note I added at the end of my prior reply). Again, I have never tried using this myself without a sub configured.


You should send an email to Anthem tech support to confirm that this test really is disabled due to not configuring a subwoofer (i.e., not a bug in your hardware or software). You might also put in a request that they add the necessary bass steering (and a suitable upper limit for the sweep) so that folks like you CAN use this in a setup which has only large main speakers and no sub. That should be pretty easy for them to do, although all of this is superseded by the ARC stuff now.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13069705
> 
> 
> I haven't seen the manual pages on the ARC yet. But we may need to get some clarification from Anthem on some of these.
> 
> --Bob



Unfortunately the "manual" is not really much - just 2 pages of base info with very little detail on the "real inner workings" of it.

I am happy to share that with you in pdf if you want to PM me your email addy.

/\\/\\


----------



## Don O’Brien

Can't you compensate in the source setup for the panasonic -5db lfe problem?


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13069705
> 
> 
> drmabuse,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My guess would be that you DO have to specify to the Anthem if you have a THX Ultra 2 sub, since that probably configures the Anthem to allow even lower frequencies to go to the sub without being attenuated by the sub-sonic filter which is undoubtedly in the Anthem's output to protect the sub from really REALLY low frequency stuff (below 10Hz say).
> 
> 
> The Boundary Gain adjustment is in the Anthem to compensate for sub placement near a wall when you have a sub that can go that deep. I think the ARC might be able to do that part automatically, but I'm not sure whether setting or clearing that setting in the Anthem menu would make the ARC's job easier.
> 
> 
> --Bob



hi...I just checked and both of these options no longer exist on the menus. I am currently using 1.29j


/\\/\\


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13069738
> 
> 
> Joe, are you doing this prior to EVERY power up now? Or just the first time after loading new software?
> 
> 
> And if you are doing it every time (presumably, now, without having any power on problems when you power up with the remote after cycling the back panel power switch), have you tried recently just trying to turn on with the remote to see if your problem has gone away?
> 
> --Bob



Bob - Actually it has gotten better with the last 2 releases. It used to happen about 1 out of 2 power up's. Now it's probably 1 out of 5. For me it does not matter if I select power on with the remote, press main, or press a input button. The D2 powers up, and just as it starts to do the triggers, it powers down. Then it will usually power right back up (when I ask). I don't cycle power on the back anymore (since it powers up fine on the second try), it's just something I noticed (that it always worked from a "cold boot").


----------



## benleeys

From the postings here, I gather that the EQ function is being applied with all channels driven, like when viewing movies or listening to DVD-A/SACD. My question - can it save a separate setup for 2-ch listening as well? Surely the setup corrections will be different when only the 2 front L/R speakers are playing as against all 6/8 speakers playing.


Thanks

Ben


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13070174
> 
> 
> From the postings here, I gather that the EQ function is being applied with all channels driven, like when viewing movies or listening to DVD-A/SACD. My question - can it save a separate setup for 2-ch listening as well? Surely the setup corrections will be different when only the 2 front L/R speakers are playing as against all 6/8 speakers playing.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ben



The ARC-1 does allow for separate movie and music settings.

/\\/\\


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13063810
> 
> 
> Whatever is going on with this video issue and 1.29x, I am sure it is on the input side - when I have no video with 1.29x, the DS status screen reports "no video signal."



I am running v1.29j with component connections. The Status Display on the D2 always show "No video input" even when a movie is playing properly on the screen.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Don O'Brien* /forum/post/13070057
> 
> 
> Can't you compensate in the source setup for the panasonic -5db lfe problem?



Not if you have a normal speaker setup with a sub and "small" speakers. The level setting in the menu is for the subwoofer output of the Anthem -- which includes not only the incoming LFE signal but also any bass steered to the sub output from the main speaker channels. If you boost the sub output you are incorrectly boosting that steered bass as well.


One of the Anthem's "temporary" level setting controls (from the remote) allows you to adjust LFE separately from the entire sub output stream. But it only offers a CUT in LFE. You can't boost the LFE 5dB.


You could lower all the channels EXCEPT LFE by 5dB (and counter that by raising the main volume), but in addition to losing some of the low end of each channel into the noise floor (including the LFE channel for that matter), once again the steered bass is now wrong.


And then, all of this stuff is just to compensate for PCM from one source device -- i.e., you need to undo it when listening to other sources or when playing traditional DD5.1 or DTS bitstreams from that player for standard DVD listening.


Bottom line is that this is something that Panasonic (and now Denon) have to fix in their current Blu-Ray players.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13070191
> 
> 
> The ARC-1 does allow for separate movie and music settings.
> 
> /\\/\\



Fantastic. I kind of got a bit worried.







I have placed my order with the dealer.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13070125
> 
> 
> hi...I just checked and both of these options no longer exist on the menus. I am currently using 1.29j
> 
> 
> /\\/\\



That's interesting! I wonder how this works now? Is there a setting for ARC engaged or not? I wonder if those menu items reappear if you turn off the ARC?

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13069985
> 
> 
> Unfortunately the "manual" is not really much - just 2 pages of base info with very little detail on the "real inner workings" of it.
> 
> I am happy to share that with you in pdf if you want to PM me your email addy.
> 
> /\\/\\



If possible could you put the manual out on the thread for the rest of us to view.

Thanks,Tom


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13070248
> 
> 
> That's interesting! I wonder how this works now? Is there a setting for ARC engaged or not? I wonder if those menu items reappear if you turn off the ARC?
> 
> --Bob



Hi,

You "enable" the room EQ on each separate source. In addition you decide which Bass Mgr you want - music/movie.

I reviewed the new manual and there is no mention of either of these - Boundary Gain or THX Ultra2 Sub" in there as well.

/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drmabuse,

The V1.3 manual still shows the THX Ultra 2 Sub setting and the Boundary Gain Compensation setting at the bottom of the Room Resonance Filter menu.


If that menu is not accessible when you are using ARC, that would explain why you are not seeing them.


It's still interesting that ARC might not need the user to specify this info.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tngiloy* 
If possible could you put the manual out on the thread for the rest of us to view.

Thanks,Tom
Sure!

 

ARC-1 Operating Guide.pdf 276.7744140625k . file


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13070295
> 
> 
> drmabuse,
> 
> The V1.3 manual still shows the THX Ultra 2 Sub setting and the Boundary Gain Compensation setting at the bottom of the Room Resonance Filter menu.
> 
> 
> If that menu is not accessible when you are using ARC, that would explain why you are not seeing them.
> 
> 
> It's still interesting that ARC might not need the user to specify this info.
> 
> --Bob



This is my bad - you are right. The THX Ultra2 choice is still there but the Boundary Gain is there but goes to N/A.

Sorry about that.

/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Boundary Gain only applies if you turn on THX Ultra 2 Sub (since it only applies at the extra low frequencies that a deep sub like that can reproduce). So if you set the THX Ultra 2 Sub to Yes you should also then have an option for whether or not to engage Boundary Gain compensation.


Interesting! I still wonder whether one or both of these settings has any actual effect when you are using ARC.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13070348
> 
> 
> Boundary Gain only applies if you turn on THX Ultra 2 Sub (since it only applies at the extra low frequencies that a deep sub like that can reproduce). So if you set the THX Ultra 2 Sub to Yes you should also then have an option for whether or not to engage Boundary Gain compensation.
> 
> 
> Interesting! I still wonder whether one or both of these settings has any actual effect when you are using ARC.
> 
> --Bob



I will do that this afternoon and post later on result.

/\\/\\


----------



## Don O’Brien

Bob,

thanks for the clarification on the -5db LFE problems with the panasonic player/s. Is there an electronic version of the anthem 1.3 manual available?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The ARC write up confirms that Center EQ and Room Resonance Filter are disabled when ARC is engaged for any given source. But it doesn't specifically call out whether the THX Ultra 2 Sub and Boundary Gain Compensation are also disabled. Even though they are in the Room Resonance Filter menu, my understanding is that they are separate from that filter itself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13068440
> 
> 
> Powered up this morning. No video until 6 or 7 power cycles. Back to 1.21d all is well again.



There's nothing for it then but to work the problem with Anthem Tech Support. I'm assuming they've made a change which alters the power up timing for the various parts of the Anthem. Either that or they have a value that is not being initialized properly at power-up (so that you get random results with each power-up).


Sigh....

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If anyone running the latest software has a Velodyne D-series subwoofer or SMC-1 bass EQ product, I'm curious whether Anthem has managed to fix the problem it had with the S-video from the Velodyne not being recognized by the Anthem video processor.


I.e., in the older software S-Video from the Velodyne works just fine as "pass through" to the Anthem's S-Video output, but can not be converted and scaled for output via Component or HDMI.


--------------------------------------------


There were a few other long standing issues that I haven't seen addressed in the release notes. For example, the method of selecting an overlayed input on the Anthem remote conflicted with an attempt to select a Simulcast combo of audio and video via that remote.


We had a number of complaints from folks that HDMI Repeater = NO wasn't working as expected. That should be fixed by now, but I'd like to hear from folks who were having problems with it as to whether it is working as expected now.


We've had various reports that audio and video input status wasn't being displayed correctly, and that Film Mode status wasn't being displayed correctly. Anyone want to check that (both in the displays that come up when pressing Select multiple times and in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel).


We had a couple reports of folks hearing output from their subwoofer even when selecting a Music speaker configuration where the subwoofer was not enabled. Again, this should be fixed by now, but I haven't seen mention of it.


We've had numerous reports of the Video Source Adjust / Scale Out option changing unexpectedly upon power up for the source input that happens to be selected at power-up. E.g., Letter-box unexpectedly changes to Anamorphic on power-up (or even worse, to Zoom). This problem only happened at power-up. Anything to report on this from the new software?


We are not SUPPOSED to see any change in 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion in this software, but it would be useful to confirm they still have problems (or even better that it works!).


It's been a while since I looked back in the thread for one of the summary posts on known issues. If anyone remembers any of the others, feel free to mention them again here. Let's see if we can catalog what's what with the V1.3 stuff as quickly as possible.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13070299
> 
> 
> Sure!



Thanks

Tom


----------



## dschamis

FYI - in case anyone is keeping track, I just installed 1.29k (overwriting 1.29j) and everything seems to be running fine.


----------



## tngiloy

drmabuse,

The instructions state Windows XP, not XP or above. My notebook has Vista. Is this program incompatible with Vista? If so I'll have to find someone with XP.

Do you think waterboarding Bill Gates is too extreme?

Tom


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13070777
> 
> 
> drmabuse,
> 
> The instructions state Windows XP, not XP or above. My notebook has Vista. Is this program incompatible with Vista? If so I'll have to find someone with XP.
> 
> Do you think waterboarding Bill Gates is too extreme?
> 
> Tom



LOL - don't know if you have ever seen the South Park movie but Gates was dealt with in that regarding Windows98 if I am not mistaken...

/\\/\\


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13070406
> 
> 
> The ARC write up confirms that Center EQ and Room Resonance Filter are disabled when ARC is engaged for any given source. But it doesn't specifically call out whether the THX Ultra 2 Sub and Boundary Gain Compensation are also disabled. Even though they are in the Room Resonance Filter menu, my understanding is that they are separate from that filter itself.
> 
> --Bob



hi,

I set my Subs to THX Ultra2 and enabled Boundary Gain.

Redid my Room EQ and quite honestly cannot hear a difference - if there is one it is VERY subtle...

/\\/\\


----------



## Joe C5

Bob - I think HDMI Repeater = No must work again since as I am typing this My TV is displaying my DVR and I'm playing music from my PS-3. There was a small hiccup when it changed over, but it picked right up (of course these don't have DRM so maybe not...).


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/13069021
> 
> 
> Might I suggest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that you reload 1.29k again and try one thing? Before you power up the D2, turn off the power in the back (and then of course turn it back on). Mine has had an issue with shutting itself off on power-up since I had it upgraded. I blame the software (being a EE / SW / FW Engineer - I can do that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). In other words, I believe there is a variable (or a few) which really should be reset when the unit its turned off that is not. Then there is some sort of race condition as to if it will cause problems. YMMV - but I would be VERY curious if you have the time and don't mind checking (if we can get the info back to Nick it might help)...
> 
> 
> On another note: I like the idea of yours for the serial ports. You can get both types of laptop and all 3 types of PC in a "real" serial port. I use a real one (16550 based) and have never had a problem. It actually is fairly hard to get a really reliable serial communication program working under uSloth. I have one that is pretty bulletproof, but it took a while to get it "just right".




I did power off the unit from the back before doing my last 1.29k upgrade. Are you saying power it off after the upgrade is complete and before turning the unit on? I may have tried that already also, but I wnated to make sure I understood what you were suggesting. I am inclined at this point to wait for 1.29l


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13070752
> 
> 
> FYI - in case anyone is keeping track, I just installed 1.29k (overwriting 1.29j) and everything seems to be running fine.



Mine worked ok until the unit had been off for several hours. Was 1.29j working for you?


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13070212
> 
> 
> I am running v1.29j with component connections. The Status Display on the D2 always show "No video input" even when a movie is playing properly on the screen.
> 
> 
> Ben



When mine actually plays video, the status screen indicates the correct input. It only says no video signal when I have no video.


I wonder if 1.29x does not like my Tivo always connected with a live HDMI signal.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13071383
> 
> 
> When mine actually plays video, the status screen indicates the correct input. It only says no video signal when I have no video.
> 
> 
> I wonder if 1.29x does not like my Tivo always connected with a live HDMI signal.



I've got a TiVo HD... always on HDMI signal. When I did the upgrade, I removed all the HDMI cables from the D2... not just powered off the HDMI components. I haven't had a problem with any of the upgrades, the last one I did was 1.29j (haven't done k yet).


Personal request - will you guys slow up on the posts? Every time I turn around, there are 20 more posts to catch up on!


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13057003
> 
> 
> I think what I'll do is see how close the ARC-1 gets to the desired target curve with and without the Velodyne filters engaged. That may be the easiest test to see if the Velodyne filters are making it easier for the ARC-1 to do its thing across the entire frequency range.
> 
> --Bob



I have the Velodyne SMS-1. I can't wait to get the ARC. Let us know how your tests go with and without the Velodyne EQ. I'm very interested in what you think.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13071328
> 
> 
> I did power off the unit from the back before doing my last 1.29k upgrade. Are you saying power it off after the upgrade is complete and before turning the unit on? I may have tried that already also, but I wnated to make sure I understood what you were suggesting. I am inclined at this point to wait for 1.29l



I meant after upgrading to 1.29k, before each power-on cycle the rear power switch. This way, each time you power it up it will be from a "cold boot" (nothing else has been used yet). Just curious - it might be a clue as to what is going on...


----------



## RMK

My D2 was just in for repair due to a complete loss of the front LEDs and I just got it back yesterday. I was surprised to find that software version 1.3 was installed. Anthem support told me that it was coming back with 1.21 installed. My old settings were unavailable via the save/load menus.


I of course had no settings editor for 1.3 so I ended up manually reentering everything from the setup on my computer.


Are the setup and live video settings utilities available for 1.3? Thanks,


Robert


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/13071773
> 
> 
> I meant after upgrading to 1.29k, before each power-on cycle the rear power switch. This way, each time you power it up it will be from a "cold boot" (nothing else has been used yet). Just curious - it might be a clue as to what is going on...



I have tried using the power switch when doing the numerous power cycles it takes to get a video signal. It does not katter whether I use the power switch or not.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Looking in the new D2 V1.3x Manual there is a notation below the menu picture for the Room Response Filter (Menu 3h) saying to ignore this menu if ARC is being used for ALL sources. That would imply that the THX Ultra 2 Sub, and the Boundary Gain Compensation settings are overridden with ARC.


--------------------------------


On the other hand I notice that the Bass Management-Movie menu (Menu 3a) has a notation under it that says to ignore items a-l if ARC is being used on ALL sources.


That leaves the Polarity, Phase, and Bypass LFE "advanced" settings! I.e., the implication is that ARC is *NOT* trying to automatically set subwoofer Polarity or Phase, and is also not trying to decide automatically whether the Bypass LFE setting is appropriate!


If true, this is a disappointment. One of the big things I want out of an automated system like ARC is to not have to worry about manual Polarity and Phase adjustment any more.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13070752
> 
> 
> FYI - in case anyone is keeping track, I just installed 1.29k (overwriting 1.29j) and everything seems to be running fine.



I installed 1.29k today, and everything is fine so far.


----------



## scottshd

how long is the usb mike cable for the arc. ? thanks scott


----------



## ninja12

Bob


Which DD series do you have? Also, do you use the XLR connection or the RCA connection? I have the DD18.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It appears that the shortcut under the Mode key for accessing/changing the current Crop Input setting has gone away in the new software (replaced by a shortcut to select the Video Output configuration).


Has anyone found a shortcut to the current Crop Input setting?


I use that a lot -- primarily to force a 16:9 crop when viewing a 16:9 movie embedded in an SD TV channel.


Of course I could set it up as an overlayed input, but I liked having that shortcut available. Sigh....

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13073161
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Which DD series do you have? Also, do you use the XLR connection or the RCA connection? I have the DD18.



I'm using a 15 (my viewing room is not that big). I use the RCA connection.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Bob:


Still using 1.11e without any major hitches except the following:


My s-video from my DD15 has to go directly to the TV as opposed to being routed through the Anthem as you mentioned.


Sometimes, it takes an extremely long time to output a video signal when I first turn it on. I've even had to power my system off and back on again.


I used to have the ghost sub output that you mentioned even though the sub was turned off for music, but I haven't tried that in some time because I now have it turned on for music as well. I'm sure it is likely still an issue.


These seemed to be the lesser of the issues so I've stuck with 1.11e.


----------



## bluemark81

Anyone using Oppo's 970HD routed through their Anthem going to a plasma?


I have a Panasonic TH58PZ700 plasma and currently I am using an Oppo 970HD SD DVD player routed through an Anthem AVM50 pre/pro. I have noticed the black levels when watching SD DVD`s appear to be washed out. When I watch HD content through the satellite, it appears much blacker. I'm wondering if there is a setting that I have missed somewhere either in the Anthem or the Oppo?


Under the Video Setup Page on the Oppo, I have the following selections:


Sharpness = off

Brightness = 00

Contrast = 00

Hue = 00

Saturation = 00

Gamma = off

Color Space = Auto


I used the DVE disk to calibrate.


Thanks,


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

I am with you bob... i hope that is not true...


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13073804
> 
> 
> Anyone using Oppo's 970HD routed through their Anthem going to a plasma?



I've got an Opp going to my D2, going to a Pioneer plasme. No black level issues.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/13074442
> 
> 
> I've got an Opp going to my D2, going to a Pioneer plasme. No black level issues.



No issues when viewing HDTV, only when viewing SD DVD. I don't have Blue-Ray or HD yet so I'm not sure what to expect there.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13073804
> 
> 
> Anyone using Oppo's 970HD routed through their Anthem going to a plasma?
> 
> 
> I have a Panasonic TH58PZ700 plasma and currently I am using an Oppo 970HD SD DVD player routed through an Anthem AVM50 pre/pro. I have noticed the black levels when watching SD DVD`s appear to be washed out. When I watch HD content through the satellite, it appears much blacker. I'm wondering if there is a setting that I have missed somewhere either in the Anthem or the Oppo?
> 
> 
> Under the Video Setup Page on the Oppo, I have the following selections:
> 
> 
> Sharpness = off
> 
> Brightness = 00
> 
> Contrast = 00
> 
> Hue = 00
> 
> Saturation = 00
> 
> Gamma = off
> 
> Color Space = Auto
> 
> 
> I used the DVE disk to calibrate.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



What does the Video Source Adjust / Info panel say you are using for data format for input from the Oppo and for output to your plasma when you are seeing this problem?


The most common reason for this problem is that you are incorrectly forcing Extended RGB someplace instead of properly using YCbCr or Studio RGB.


If you are using Component connections, the equivalent problem would be incorrectly specifying IRE =0 instead of IRE = 7.5 for Blacks.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13072966
> 
> 
> ........That leaves the Polarity, Phase, and Bypass LFE "advanced" settings! I.e., the implication is that ARC is *NOT* trying to automatically set subwoofer Polarity or Phase, and is also not trying to decide automatically whether the Bypass LFE setting is appropriate!
> 
> 
> If true, this is a disappointment. One of the big things I want out of an automated system like ARC is to not have to worry about manual Polarity and Phase adjustment any more.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


A novice's question - Can the mic really tell whether a soundwave is out-of-phase? Wouldn't it simply interpret the situation as deficient and the EQ simply increases the gain on that portion of the frequency range to compensate? It would then be left to the user to set the polarity and phase manually for optimum output before running the EQ.


Ben


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13074644
> 
> 
> What does the Video Source Adjust / Info panel say you are using for data format for input from the Oppo and for output to your plasma when you are seeing this problem?
> 
> 
> The most common reason for this problem is that you are incorrectly forcing Extended RGB someplace instead of properly using YCbCr or Studio RGB.
> 
> 
> If you are using Component connections, the equivalent problem would be incorrectly specifying IRE =0 instead of IRE = 7.5 for Blacks.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I am running HDMI from my Oppo to Anthem and Anthem to TV.


On screen 5f of the Anthem, the scaler input is set to HDMI1 for my DVD1.


Under screen 8 of the Anthem, I have the following settings:

a. s-video OSD = NTSC

b. preferred = HDMI

c. resolution = 1920 x 1080p/60

d. color space = HDTV

e. data format = YCbCr 4:4:4

f. letterbox = dark

g. sync = normal

h. component 2 out = processed


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13073174
> 
> 
> I'm using a 15 (my viewing room is not that big). I use the RCA connection.
> 
> --Bob



Have you tried using Preset 5? This is, supposedly, the preset it should be set on for THX Ultra 2. I don't really know about that because it says to turn off the Low Pass Crossover Frequency and set the Low Pass Crossover Slope to 6db. Well, if you turn off the Low Pass Crossover Frequency, then you also turn off the Low Pass Crossover Slope. It appears you can't have one with the other. At least for me, that's how it is.


As for the video, I am running the RCA from my sub straight to the TV without any problems. I am running the RCA for the audio signal from my sub to the AUX of the D2. So far, I am not having amy problems. I know that you had mentioned something about that in an earlier post.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13070752
> 
> 
> FYI - in case anyone is keeping track, I just installed 1.29k (overwriting 1.29j) and everything seems to be running fine.



I also installed and tested 1.29k this week-end woks fine with me and the ARC-1.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13071328
> 
> 
> I did power off the unit from the back before doing my last 1.29k upgrade. Are you saying power it off after the upgrade is complete and before turning the unit on? I may have tried that already also, but I wnated to make sure I understood what you were suggesting. I am inclined at this point to wait for 1.29l



I am probably over doing but after each upgrade I power off the unit at the back. Than reconnect all HDMI cables (I always unplug all HDMI cables before any upgrade) re-power the unit. Followed by reloading default setting. Finally, I connect the PC and reload my saved setting.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13072966
> 
> 
> Looking in the new D2 V1.3x Manual there is a notation below the menu picture for the Room Response Filter (Menu 3h) saying to ignore this menu if ARC is being used for ALL sources. That would imply that the THX Ultra 2 Sub, and the Boundary Gain Compensation settings are overridden with ARC.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------
> 
> 
> On the other hand I notice that the Bass Management-Movie menu (Menu 3a) has a notation under it that says to ignore items a-l if ARC is being used on ALL sources.
> 
> 
> That leaves the Polarity, Phase, and Bypass LFE "advanced" settings! I.e., the implication is that ARC is *NOT* trying to automatically set subwoofer Polarity or Phase, and is also not trying to decide automatically whether the Bypass LFE setting is appropriate!
> 
> 
> If true, this is a disappointment. One of the big things I want out of an automated system like ARC is to not have to worry about manual Polarity and Phase adjustment any more.
> 
> --Bob



We need to confirm this with Anthem, I asked the question lets see the answer.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13075592
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> A novice's question - Can the mic really tell whether a soundwave is out-of-phase? Wouldn't it simply interpret the situation as deficient and the EQ simply increases the gain on that portion of the frequency range to compensate? It would then be left to the user to set the polarity and phase manually for optimum output before running the EQ.
> 
> 
> Ben



I don't see why this cannot be done.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13076856
> 
> 
> I also installed and tested 1.29k this week-end woks fine with me and the ARC-1.



Tolstoi - you're just trying to make me jealous!


I can't wait to get that ARC-1. Despite the fact that I have been listening to music for years and years, I think that my ability to properly nail-down the perfectly adjusted audio adjustments is pretty low!


----------



## dmorse4765

I have not yet ordered the ARC. I run 2 subs that are on opposite sides of the room. Before the Arc is used I would think that the 2 subs would have to be phased for the highest output. I don't see how altering the sub output could phase 2 subs unless they were located beside each other. My 2 subs are on opposite sides of the room and they are 120 degree;s out of phase to obtain highest output using my SMS-1.


----------



## Ian_Currie

So if only 'new customers' of the D2 can get the ARC-1, how does Tolstoi have it?


----------



## cecaa850

I think he was a beta tester.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13075669
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I am running HDMI from my Oppo to Anthem and Anthem to TV.
> 
> 
> On screen 5f of the Anthem, the scaler input is set to HDMI1 for my DVD1.
> 
> 
> Under screen 8 of the Anthem, I have the following settings:
> 
> a. s-video OSD = NTSC
> 
> b. preferred = HDMI
> 
> c. resolution = 1920 x 1080p/60
> 
> d. color space = HDTV
> 
> e. data format = YCbCr 4:4:4
> 
> f. letterbox = dark
> 
> g. sync = normal
> 
> h. component 2 out = processed



Your settings all seem correct, but what we still need to determine is if the Anthem is actually using the Data Format you think it is using.


So play a DVD, and when you see the problem with washed out dark grays you are talking about, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key), go to the Info panel, and record what it shows for BOTH the input and output video signals.


Meanwhile, check the Oppo and check your plasma for a setting that configures it for use with computers or with home theater equipment. The setting you want is the one for home theater equipment. It might be labeled "Blacks", and it will have just two choices. This would be the most likely place to get things wrong.


Also check the Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color Space menu for the Oppo input on the Anthem. The YCbCr setting should have the Auto option checked, and the RGB setting should have the Studio RGB option checked.


=============================


EDITED TO ADD: It also may be that you have simply misunderstood how to use DVE to set black levels (Brightness). DVD content includes "Blacker than Black" imaging data which is there to make video processing algorithms work better. But it is NOT intended to actually be seen! If you have raised Brightness too high, so that the Blacker than Black details become visible, then your DVD imaging will appear both noisy and a bit washed out.


To make room for the BTB data, the info recorded on the DVD encodes Black as digital 16. The data range from 1-15 is used to encode Blacker than Black pixels. If you mistakenly set things to expect Extended RGB data, then your equipment will interpret Black as digital 0. That means all that BTB data gets pushed up into the visible range, and you may not have enough Brightness control to tone things back down again. It is possible to make this mistake in the player, in the Anthem, or even in your display. If you have made a corresponding mistake in your HD set top box, that might explain why its imaging is looking better. Re-read the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post linked in the first post of this thread looking for possible setup errors you might have made.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13075592
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> A novice's question - Can the mic really tell whether a soundwave is out-of-phase? Wouldn't it simply interpret the situation as deficient and the EQ simply increases the gain on that portion of the frequency range to compensate? It would then be left to the user to set the polarity and phase manually for optimum output before running the EQ.
> 
> 
> Ben



Yes, the mic can tell the phasing of individual speakers by sending an appropriately shaped pulse waveform through them and seeing what arrives at the mic. Phasing is nothing more than whether the cone of the speaker is moving towards the mic or away from the mic at any given time from all speakers playing the same waveform. If two speakers are moving in opposite directions the audio from the two of them will tend to cancel out. "Polarity" affects the phase across the entire frequency range. It is equivalent to reversing the pair of wires going to the speaker. "Phase" alters things close to the cross-over frequency (which is where cancellation is most likely to happen between a sub and the mains) according to some mathematical function the engineers decide to employ.


Automated EQ systems in receivers have detected phasing problems for quite some time -- pointing out that one of the main speakers may be wired backwards for example.


As Tolstoi says, we need to confirm what's really going on here. It could just be a typo in the new manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/13077559
> 
> 
> I have not yet ordered the ARC. I run 2 subs that are on opposite sides of the room. Before the Arc is used I would think that the 2 subs would have to be phased for the highest output. I don't see how altering the sub output could phase 2 subs unless they were located beside each other. My 2 subs are on opposite sides of the room and they are 120 degree;s out of phase to obtain highest output using my SMS-1.



Yes. If you are using multiple subs there is some extra work that needs to be done to get optimal results. The question is whether the ARC provides any help in doing this -- e.g., measuring things one sub at a time for example, and then in combo.


For example, if you get sub #1 properly in phase with LF main, and then get sub #2 properly in phase with LF main, then the two subs must also be properly in phase with each other.


Since the Anthem has only one, common, phasing control that is shared by all connected subs, one of the two subs will have to be adjusted using its own, internal control. But the ARC could provide the info you need while finding that adjustment.


=======================================


EDITED TO ADD: Of course you will need to do the phasing using the Anthem's control with just one sub FIRST, and THEN, using that Anthem setting, do the manual adjustment for the second sub (playing alone) using the second sub's internal control. (I.e., just measure with ARC and MANUALLY adjust the second sub's internal control without redoing the ARC calculation stuff.) Then rerun ARC once again (allowing it to go all the way through) with both subs connected to get volume balance and room response properly corrected with that combo of 2 subs. ARC should decide no additional adjustment needs to be made to the Anthem's phasing (or only a minor adjustment) since both subs are, now, already in phase due to the previous passes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13075749
> 
> 
> Have you tried using Preset 5? This is, supposedly, the preset it should be set on for THX Ultra 2. I don't really know about that because it says to turn off the Low Pass Crossover Frequency and set the Low Pass Crossover Slope to 6db. Well, if you turn off the Low Pass Crossover Frequency, then you also turn off the Low Pass Crossover Slope. It appears you can't have one with the other. At least for me, that's how it is.



To advertise THX Ultra 2 certification, Velodyne has to specify the settings used when passing the tests. That's all they are doing.


You are free to use whatever preset or custom settings work best in your room.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13078967
> 
> 
> Yes. If you are using multiple subs there is some extra work that needs to be done to get optimal results. The question is whether the ARC provides any help in doing this -- e.g., measuring things one sub at a time for example, and then in combo.
> 
> 
> For example, if you get sub #1 properly in phase with LF main, and then get sub #2 properly in phase with LF main, then the two subs must also be properly in phase with each other.
> 
> 
> Since the Anthem has only one, common, phasing control that is shared by all connected subs, one of the two subs will have to be adjusted using its own, internal control. But the ARC could provide the info you need while finding that adjustment.
> 
> --Bob



Here is the answer and I think you will like it.



1. Yes. Center eq as well. Note that "THX Ultra2 Sub: Yes" does nothing more than make Boundary Gain Compensation: On/Off an option. In past software it also disabled Bass Peak Level Manager but since so many people weren't setting it correctly, coupled with the fact that practically all decent subs have their own tailor-made compression and/or limiting, we saw plenty of good reason to remove it.


2. Phase is corrected inherently when eq is corrected. Phase (and in rougher form polarity) controls are meant to help create a seamless blend between the fronts and the sub. If there is considerable phase difference, there will be cancellations / comb filtering - these are things that directly affect frequency response. The automatic eq takes care of these things. I guess we could have disabled the phase/polarity controls... but never saw a need to.


As for LFE bypassing the crossover option, it's there only because so many people indicated that they didn't *want* their sub to play above 40 Hz for example ("my full range fronts can do it in stereo") and even when it's explained that if LFE is rolled off at 40 Hz half of it will DISAPPEAR, they still don't change mind. So the option is still there but it really should never have been. It was added because before that people with too-low sub xover setting were complaining about not getting enough bass from 5.1 soundtracks.


----------



## dmorse4765

Thanks for verifying that Bob. When I got my second sub from SVS that is exactly how they told me to set them up. That is very easy to do with even a sound meter or the SMS-1 before using the Arc. That is why am waiting a few months to see how it really works with multiple subs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tolstoi,

It sounds like he is saying the ARC algorithm uses phase adjustment as one of its tools to match the target. If so, then things are good for users with one sub. Users with more than one sub may still get better results if they do some extra steps to phase match the multiple subs ahead of time. I don't know if ARC will help them in that.


If, on the other hand, he is saying that ARC uses traditional filters (non-phase altering) to smooth out the results of poor phasing, I suspect that users will get better results if they do some manual phase matching first so that the filters have less work to do.


Since we don't really know the inner workings, I'm not sure which it is.


It would be easy enough to test I suppose. Get your single sub into the best phase match you can find USING ITS INTERNAL CONTROL. Then run ARC. Then deliberately screw up the sub's phasing by altering its internal control. Then run ARC again and see if the results are as good as the first time. If they are, then no worries as regards phase settings for one sub.


That still leaves open the best way to handle multiple subs, however.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13079337
> 
> 
> 
> That still leaves open the best way to handle multiple subs, however.
> 
> --Bob



I have two subs also, and I'm really happy to have Bob on the case here! Thanks Bob!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Please understand that I am just guessing on this sub stuff right now. Anthem has been working on this Room EQ stuff for YEARS and has likely done work with multiple sub configurations. It may turn out that ARC provides enough control already that they have decided complicating things further by adding additional phase adjustment -- for one sub or for multiple subs -- doesn't add enough to be worth the effort.


If you can get the volume you want without distortion or processing artifacts, and the response curve matches the target, then you are done -- regardless of how that is achieved.

--Bob


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13069271
> 
> 
> there are no ways to deal with more than one sub



ARC is going to see multiple subs as a single sub anyway, so goal should be to present ARC with the best 'virtual' subwoofer possible; certainly one that needs the least amount of correction.


You can start by using the controls on the back of the subwoofer to get them as closely level matched and in-phase as possible. Also try to get both subwoofers physically time aligned: same distance from the sweet spot, or stacked, or placed next to each other, etc. All this should be done prior to any calibration by the D2.


So when ARC samples the virtual subwoofer, it will hear something more coherent than if the levels, time alignment and phase weren't matched. Of course, once you move the mic outside the sweet spot, the virtual sub won't be as clear sounding since each sub will be a different distance from the mic. But some improvement is better than none, especially since most of us do our critical listening from the sweet spot.


Sanjay


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13079417
> 
> 
> Please understand that I am just guessing on this sub stuff right now. Anthem has been working on this Room EQ stuff for YEARS and has likely done work with multiple sub configurations. It may turn out that ARC provides enough control already that they have decided complicating things further by adding additional phase adjustment -- for one sub or for multiple subs -- doesn't add enough to be worth the effort.
> 
> 
> If you can get the volume you want without distortion or processing artifacts, and the response curve matches the target, then you are done -- regardless of how that is achieved.
> 
> --Bob




Just one clarification, the ARC Software is getting from the D2 the speakers configurations including the number of Subs. Up to two subs could be controlled independently by the D2. The measurement prompts is clearly indication "Subwoofers". Therefore my guess is that each of the two subwoofers will be measured independently. Maybe not.


I will try to test while playing with the phase to see the software reaction.


----------



## andygiddings

For background, the AVM-50 is working fine using component in to my display, a Pioneer Elite 720HD RPTV. I recently have been trying to get around the HDCP issue by using a HDMI to VGA convertor called the HDFury and hooking this up to the RPTV's VGA input which takes RGB. Reason is I want to get upscaling on standard DVDs and this gets around the HDCP issue for those of us with older displays and no HDMI port.


My problem is that the HDFury gives a picture with fluctuating black levels, especially when the scene brightness changes suddenly. I've tried just about every setting in the Anthem for Video Out and also the Source Output settings. I think I've followed all of the excellent advice from Bob P on the first page of this thread. I've calibrated the image using AVIA and also tried hooking the source device up directly to the HDFury. Still the same issue. Before I lose patience and return the HDFury, anyone got any ideas on what else I can try? I'm totally stuck right now and have posted on http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewf...f84d1fe2fef20b curtpalme.com/forum in the HDFury forum where there are about 6-7 of us with Pioneer RPTVs all with the same issue.


About the only time it works is when I set the Anthem Video Output resolution to auto. However, this results in 480p being the chosen resolution which defeats the object of the exercise,


Andy


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13080891
> 
> 
> Just one clarification, the ARC Software is getting from the D2 the speakers configurations including the number of Subs. Up to two subs could be controlled independently by the D2. The measurement prompts is clearly indication "Subwoofers". Therefore my guess is that each of the two subwoofers will be measured independently. Maybe not.
> 
> 
> I will try to test while playing with the phase to see the software reaction.



Hi,

I have 2 subs however the ARC measurement process only processes once.

/\\/\\


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13078813
> 
> 
> Your settings all seem correct, but what we still need to determine is if the Anthem is actually using the Data Format you think it is using.
> 
> 
> So play a DVD, and when you see the problem with washed out dark grays you are talking about, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key), go to the Info panel, and record what it shows for BOTH the input and output video signals.
> 
> If I understand what you are asking, under my "picture" menu, the following Input Color Space items are selected: Auto YCbCr and Studio RGB.
> 
> 
> Under the Output tab, Gamma Corr off and frame lock off are selected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, check the Oppo and check your plasma for a setting that configures it for use with computers or with home theater equipment. The setting you want is the one for home theater equipment. It might be labeled "Blacks", and it will have just two choices. This would be the most likely place to get things wrong.
> 
> I don't see that option on the Oppo or the plasma.
> 
> 
> Also check the Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color Space menu for the Oppo input on the Anthem. The YCbCr setting should have the Auto option checked, and the RGB setting should have the Studio RGB option checked.
> 
> My Oppo has the following settings under the Video Setup Page:
> 
> 
> Sharpness = off
> 
> Brightness = 00
> 
> Contrast = 00
> 
> Hue = 00
> 
> Saturation = 00
> 
> Gamma = off
> 
> Color Space = Auto
> 
> 
> =============================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: It also may be that you have simply misunderstood how to use DVE to set black levels (Brightness). DVD content includes "Blacker than Black" imaging data which is there to make video processing algorithms work better. But it is NOT intended to actually be seen! If you have raised Brightness too high, so that the Blacker than Black details become visible, then your DVD imaging will appear both noisy and a bit washed out.
> 
> I believe I have set this properly.
> 
> 
> To make room for the BTB data, the info recorded on the DVD encodes Black as digital 16. The data range from 1-15 is used to encode Blacker than Black pixels. If you mistakenly set things to expect Extended RGB data, then your equipment will interpret Black as digital 0. That means all that BTB data gets pushed up into the visible range, and you may not have enough Brightness control to tone things back down again. It is possible to make this mistake in the player, in the Anthem, or even in your display. If you have made a corresponding mistake in your HD set top box, that might explain why its imaging is looking better. Re-read the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post linked in the first post of this thread looking for possible setup errors you might have made.
> 
> I have read this several times trying to make sense of it, but will try again.
> 
> --Bob


Thanks


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andygiddings* /forum/post/13081667
> 
> 
> 
> My problem is that the HDFury gives a picture with fluctuating black levels, especially when the scene brightness changes suddenly.Andy



I think I understand this problem. All I can say is "be glad you don't have a Mitsubishi of about 2 years later" (oh, and I used to have a 710 by the way). It actually has the same problem, but instead of on a "field" basis, it's on a line basis. Let me try to explain (and forgive me if I'm wrong







). On the analog inputs to TV's they have a circuit that clamps the black level (and on tubes - the black level on the tube itself). How fast it does this depends on the circuit. If the circuit did this over a period of hours, it would probably not be noticable (except when calibrating). Most, including I think the Pioneer, do this on a field basis (the Mitsu did it on parts of a field - thus having dark horizontal bars in the grey side-bars if it was a non-HD signal ). Complicating this could be your processor, as it may also have a black level clamp. This is a leftover from the old NTSC days. Unless you are into hacking your TV, I don't think there is much you can do, and if you looked real hard, you would probably notice the same thing via OTA (though maybe not as bad if your processor is contributing to it). One of the reasons I sold both of mine (P & M).


Good luck...


Note: One of the things I hate about this hobby - the more you know and educate yourself, the more glaring issues you see


----------



## Milt99

bluemark81,

I clicked on the link to your system pics.

Whoa Nelly, I recognized that Sim Titan amp. Very nice.

Sorry for the OT post.

I'm an amp aficionado and get jazzed when I see nice one.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13082957
> 
> 
> bluemark81,
> 
> I clicked on the link to your system pics.
> 
> Whoa Nelly, I recognized that Sim Titan amp. Very nice.
> 
> Sorry for the OT post.
> 
> I'm an amp aficionado and get jazzed when I see nice one.



Thanks Milt....I like it alot.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13080891
> 
> 
> Just one clarification, the ARC Software is getting from the D2 the speakers configurations including the number of Subs. Up to two subs could be controlled independently by the D2. The measurement prompts is clearly indication "Subwoofers". Therefore my guess is that each of the two subwoofers will be measured independently. Maybe not.



I don't see how this could be possible as the D2 has only eight channels, i.e. one subwoofer channel. This is one of the limitations of the D2 where I always wished for more.


----------



## abc999

The add-on ARC1 will only ship when ALL of the new D2 orders are satisfied. This was the statement coming from Anthem.


I think I have to discourage people from wanting the D2 or else I wont be getting the ARC1 soon.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13084192
> 
> 
> The add-on ARC1 will only ship when ALL of the new D2 orders are satisfied. This was the statement coming from Anthem.
> 
> I think I have to discourage people from wanting the D2 or else I wont be getting the ARC1 soon.



Hmm, _ALL_ of the new D2 orders? What the hell does that mean exactly.

This will probably be like the D1-D2 upgrade, hopefully not so bad.

I'm guessing Q2, May.


----------



## ANSEK

I know this is off topic but I figure everyone here can help. I think I blew two channels in A5. I have I tried switching speakers and still got no sound. It is the my two surrounds which I found weird. I used various test tones and they all returned no sound on the surrounds. Any suggestions?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13080891
> 
> 
> Just one clarification, the ARC Software is getting from the D2 the speakers configurations including the number of Subs. Up to two subs could be controlled independently by the D2. The measurement prompts is clearly indication "Subwoofers". Therefore my guess is that each of the two subwoofers will be measured independently. Maybe not.
> 
> 
> I will try to test while playing with the phase to see the software reaction.



As best I can figure out, the 2 sub configuration setting merely adjusts the calibration volume level to account for the extra driver.


All 4 subwoofer outputs from the Anthem (2 RCA and 2 XLR) are sending out the identical signal (except for the fixed dB difference between RCA and XLR outputs). So there's no separate volume control, or polarity control, or phase control, or crossover for them. Whatever change you make to any of those controls affects all 4 of those outputs identically. Presumably this is just as true when ARC is engaged.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andygiddings* /forum/post/13081667
> 
> 
> For background, the AVM-50 is working fine using component in to my display, a Pioneer Elite 720HD RPTV. I recently have been trying to get around the HDCP issue by using a HDMI to VGA convertor called the HDFury and hooking this up to the RPTV's VGA input which takes RGB. Reason is I want to get upscaling on standard DVDs and this gets around the HDCP issue for those of us with older displays and no HDMI port.
> 
> 
> My problem is that the HDFury gives a picture with fluctuating black levels, especially when the scene brightness changes suddenly. I've tried just about every setting in the Anthem for Video Out and also the Source Output settings. I think I've followed all of the excellent advice from Bob P on the first page of this thread. I've calibrated the image using AVIA and also tried hooking the source device up directly to the HDFury. Still the same issue. Before I lose patience and return the HDFury, anyone got any ideas on what else I can try? I'm totally stuck right now and have posted on http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewf...f84d1fe2fef20b curtpalme.com/forum in the HDFury forum where there are about 6-7 of us with Pioneer RPTVs all with the same issue.
> 
> 
> About the only time it works is when I set the Anthem Video Output resolution to auto. However, this results in 480p being the chosen resolution which defeats the object of the exercise,
> 
> 
> Andy



You may be the victim of "floating black levels" in your RPTV when the RGB input is used. If the TV is expecting that input to be used for computer output it may be automatically or accidentally changing the black levels according to the average signal brightness to give you more dynamic range. Not so much a problem if you are viewing the mostly static imagery from a computer.


To test this use a test chart which has moving black bars on one half of the screen and a solid gray patch on the other half of the screen where you can select different brightness levels of the solid gray patch from black to white. If you have floating blacks in the TV then the Brightness setting that is correct for the moving black bars when the gray patch is dark will not also work when the gray patch is light (i.e., when the average screen brightness varies because you are viewing a different brightness for that gray patch).


There may be a way in the display's service menu to disable that (assuming it is an option and not just a mistake). But I have no idea.


I also don't know why it would work OK for you at 480p but not at higher res.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

Actually what I was trying to get from you is the signal status info displayed for the video input and output signal -- not your settings.


While viewing an image that has the problem from that source, hold the "7" key until the Video Source Adjust menu comes on screen. Now scroll right to display the "Info" panel of that menu.


The Info panel will display status on audio and video input and output. I'd like you to report what it is showing as the current video input and output signal when you are having this problem from that source device.


I.e., I'm trying to find out if the Anthem is receiving or sending out something different than your settings are telling it to do.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/13084244
> 
> 
> I know this is off topic but I figure everyone here can help. I think I blew two channels in A5. I have I tried switching speakers and still got no sound. It is the my two surrounds which I found weird. I used various test tones and they all returned no sound on the surrounds. Any suggestions?



Wow weird. I just experienced the exact same thing about one week ago with my MCA50 amp. Now I have to send it back again.










Are you hooked up with xlr cables as well?


Send a test tone to your surround left and plug that cable into your front left input on your power amp. If you get sound from your front left speaker then you know it's the suround left output of the A5.


The weird thing is if I send a test tone to the front left speaker and plug that wire into the surround left input on my power amp, then if I tap on the back of the power amp with my finger or with the unplugged xlr cable I get a quick spurt of noise from my surround speaker.










I have to send it back to Anthem in Mississauga.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13084192
> 
> 
> The add-on ARC1 will only ship when ALL of the new D2 orders are satisfied. This was the statement coming from Anthem.
> 
> 
> I think I have to discourage people from wanting the D2 or else I wont be getting the ARC1 soon.



Anthem has been working on a month by month cycle alternating between D2 and AVM-50 units I believe. That's why backlogs varied between a couple weeks and 6 weeks depending on where they were in the cycle when a new order came in. They probably also held orders around the beginning of the year until they could ship with ARC (since it is included in the pricing effective Jan 1).


So my guess is it will take them no more than a few weeks to get caught up with D2 orders so that they can ship out upgrade orders.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/13084244
> 
> 
> I know this is off topic but I figure everyone here can help. I think I blew two channels in A5. I have I tried switching speakers and still got no sound. It is the my two surrounds which I found weird. I used various test tones and they all returned no sound on the surrounds. Any suggestions?



I presume you've tried those speakers on other A5 output channels to make sure the speakers are working, right?


And you have also temporarily moved, say, the A5 line inputs for LF and RF to its inputs for your two surrounds to confirm it really is a problem inside the A5 and not in what is being fed to the A5.


Right?


If it turns out the problem is ACTUALLY that you are not feeding surround input into the A5 then you need to check those settings.


There are a variety of settings in the D2 and AVM-50 that can cause both Surround speaker to go silent at the same time. For example, you might have accidentally selected a miss-configured Music speaker setup instead of Cinema. Or you might have accidentally selected the "reverse" Rears and Surrounds setting. Or you might have engaged one of the temporary audio adjustments via the remote.


Anyway, the first thing to do is to verify it is not the speakers and that an audio signal is actually being fed to those two channels of the A5.


I suppose it is possible that those 2 channels of the A5 share a common fuse.

--Bob


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13084474
> 
> 
> Wow weird. I just experienced the exact same thing about one week ago with my MCA50 amp. Now I have to send it back again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you hooked up with xlr cables as well?
> 
> 
> Send a test tone to your surround left and plug that cable into your front left input on your power amp. If you get sound from your front left speaker then you know it's the suround left output of the A5.
> 
> 
> The weird thing is if I send a test tone to the front left speaker and plug that wire into the surround left input on my power amp, then if I tap on the back of the power amp with my finger or with the unplugged xlr cable I get a quick spurt of noise from my surround speaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to send it back to Anthem in Mississauga.
> 
> 
> John



Yes I am using XLR. I will conduct this experiment tomorrow and tell you what I discover. It is a little hard to access the back of the amp and it is late.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13084472
> 
> 
> Bluemark81,
> 
> Actually what I was trying to get from you is the signal status info displayed for the video input and output signal -- not your settings.
> 
> 
> While viewing an image that has the problem from that source, hold the "7" key until the Video Source Adjust menu comes on screen. Now scroll right to display the "Info" panel of that menu.
> 
> 
> The Info panel will display status on audio and video input and output. I'd like you to report what it is showing as the current video input and output signal when you are having this problem from that source device.
> 
> 
> I.e., I'm trying to find out if the Anthem is receiving or sending out something different than your settings are telling it to do.
> 
> --Bob



Bob: Sorry for my misunderstanding. Here is the info:


Input:

Video = HDMI YCbCr444

Signal Type = 720 x 480i/59.94Hz

Audio Source = NA

Film Mode = Off


Output:

Signal Type = 1920 x 1080p/60Hz

Frame Rate = 60.00 Hz

Line Rate = 67500.00 Hz

Frame Rate = inactive


Edit: Film Mode actually appears to go on and off


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13084242
> 
> 
> Hmm, _ALL_ of the new D2 orders? What the hell does that mean exactly.
> 
> This will probably be like the D1-D2 upgrade, hopefully not so bad.
> 
> I'm guessing Q2, May.



Well, that's what they are telling me. Its frustrating because the RC feature has been in the pipeline for a long time now. The agony lingers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13084663
> 
> 
> Bob: Sorry for my misunderstanding. Here is the info:
> 
> 
> Input:
> 
> Video = HDMI YCbCr444
> 
> Signal Type = 720 x 480i/59.94Hz
> 
> Audio Source = NA
> 
> Film Mode = Off
> 
> 
> Output:
> 
> Signal Type = 1920 x 1080p/60Hz
> 
> Frame Rate = 60.00 Hz
> 
> Line Rate = 67500.00 Hz
> 
> Frame Rate = inactive



OK, that's all normal. And I'm assuming this is what you are seeing in Info when you are also seeing the washed out dark grays on screen from the Oppo right?


Do you have the latest firmware for your Oppo?


I don't have an Oppo so I don't know if there is some setting you are missing here. You may have a faulty Oppo.


Also, which version of the Anthem software are you running now? I want to double check your video level settings for Blacks with you but I don't know which version of the Anthem test patterns are in your Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13084728
> 
> 
> OK, that's all normal. And I'm assuming this is what you are seeing in Info when you are also seeing the washed out dark grays on screen from the Oppo right?
> 
> 
> Do you have the latest firmware for your Oppo?
> 
> 
> I don't have an Oppo so I don't know if there is some setting you are missing here. You may have a faulty Oppo.
> 
> 
> Also, which version of the Anthem software are you running now? I want to double check your video level settings for Blacks with you but I don't know which version of the Anthem test patterns are in your Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


The Oppo does have the latest firmware. Funny thing is that I never noticed this when I had my CRT rear projection, but I think I may be more discriminating and expect more out of the plasma. I just received a response from Oppo tech support as follows:


"Try changing your colorspace to a forced output of RGB or YCbCr 4:4:4. If your receiver has an option of choosing Video and PC colorspace, ensure that it is set to Video."


My Anthem has v1.11e.


----------



## bluemark81

Bob:


I tried checking my Anthems Input and Output Status while watching HDTV and I noticed the video source to be HDMI RGB as opposed to HDMI YCbCr444. Could this be the reason why HDTV produces darker blacks?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13084903
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I tried checking my Anthems Input and Output Status while watching HDTV and I noticed the video source to be HDMI RGB as opposed to HDMI YCbCr444. Could this be the reason why HDTV produces darker blacks?



Yes.


Check Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color Space for the HDTV input in the Anthem and make sure you have Studio RGB checked (as well as Auto YCbCr).


In your HDTV set top box, see if you have a setting for its output data format. If it is an HDMI box you should be using YCbC4 4:4:4 from it, but it may default to RGB for some silly reason.


Make sure you have properly set up the black levels (Brightness) and white levels (Contrast) in your TV using the Anthem's internally generated test patterns (Video Source Adjust / Patterns / Color Bars). See the Anthem manual for guidance. This is independent of any source.


After doing that, you should not need to make any significant adjustment in the Anthem's input level settings (Video Source Adjust / Picture) for your HDMI inputs if they are sending the proper Data Format to the Anthem.


When checking the Oppo, the test pattern in DVE for setting black levels (Brightness control in the Anthem's input level settings), has 3 moving black bars. However the rightmost bar is actually "Blacker Than Black". The background is digital 16, the right bar is digital 7, the middle bar is digital 25 and the left bar is digital 21.


So crank up Brightness until you can see all 3 moving black bars (just to verify all the data is getting into the Anthem), but then turn Brightness back down until the right hand bar vanishes completely (i.e., merges into the surrounding black background) and the left hand bar either vanishes or is just barely visible. Depending on your TV you may prefer either way for that.


Again, check the level controls in your TV *FIRST* using the Anthem's internal test chart. Then, don't fiddle with the TV controls after that. Use the Anthem's input level controls to fine tune for each source device.


Now, if you have DVE's moving black bars showing the proper results then you should trust those results. If you are still seeing HDTV as darker then it is probably the HDTV side which is not calibrated properly. This could easily be the result of the HDTV set top box sending Extended RGB to the Anthem instead of YCbCr 4:4:4 (for and HDMI output from the box) or Studio RGB (for a DVI output from the box).


=================================


EDITED TO ADD: I don't know what HDTV set top box you are using. My Comcast box is made by Motorola, and the way you get to its video setup stuff is that you power it off with its remote, and then, while it is off, hit menu on the remote. There is a second page of settings just for HDMI outptut. When those settings are right, hit menu again to save them, and then power on to turn the box on normally. I just mention this because the method for getting to the video setup stuff in your HDTV set top box may be equally arcane.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/13084657
> 
> 
> Yes I am using XLR. I will conduct this experiment tomorrow and tell you what I discover. It is a little hard to access the back of the amp and it is late.



I think it will also work for a split second if you:

hook up all xlr cables as normal. unplug front left from the power amp. send a test tone to the surround left speaker. touch the unplugged xlr cable to the casing close to where the surround left xlr connection is made on the power amp. Let me know what this does for you.


Would be really weird if you have the identical problem as I do.


On a side note, after a while of listening to a movie the sound for the surround right comes back on but never for the surround left. When did you buy your amp? I checked my fuses and both are OK.


PM me.


John


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13084546
> 
> 
> Anthem has been working on a month by month cycle alternating between D2 and AVM-50 units I believe. That's why backlogs varied between a couple weeks and 6 weeks depending on where they were in the cycle when a new order came in. They probably also held orders around the beginning of the year until they could ship with ARC (since it is included in the pricing effective Jan 1).
> 
> 
> So my guess is it will take them no more than a few weeks to get caught up with D2 orders so that they can ship out upgrade orders.
> 
> --Bob



I ordered the ARC upgrade today and will advise once received.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

May I ask all the D2 owners on here who are using HDMI to their HDTV,... what brand and model of HDTV you are using? And has everyone been happy with how the HDMI has worked with their HDTV? Thanks.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13086075
> 
> 
> May I ask all the D2 owners on here who are using HDMI to their HDTV,... what brand and model of HDTV you are using? And has everyone been happy with how the HDMI has worked with their HDTV? Thanks.



Panasonic TH65PX600U - works fine with firmware prior to 1.29x.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13086075
> 
> 
> May I ask all the D2 owners on here who are using HDMI to their HDTV,... what brand and model of HDTV you are using? And has everyone been happy with how the HDMI has worked with their HDTV? Thanks.



Mitsubishi 65831. So far, so good. No problems. I have 1.29k loaded for my D2.


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13086075
> 
> 
> May I ask all the D2 owners on here who are using HDMI to their HDTV,... what brand and model of HDTV you are using? And has everyone been happy with how the HDMI has worked with their HDTV? Thanks.



Panasonic 50XVS30 (plasma). All D2 firmware upgrades versions that I have loaded have worked fine with the TV. My problems stem more from the Scientific Atlanta 8300HD set top box. Even with 1.29j I have HDMI handshake issues, but a second boot of the D2 sorts that out.


----------



## cecaa850

Pioneer Pro-150FD. No HDMI issues. I do however use component from my cable box as to avoid a HDMI handshake every channel change. MY HDDVD player, Blueray player and DVD player are all hooked up via HDMI.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13086075
> 
> 
> May I ask all the D2 owners on here who are using HDMI to their HDTV,... what brand and model of HDTV you are using? And has everyone been happy with how the HDMI has worked with their HDTV? Thanks.



Pioneer PDP-5060 plasma. I'm runnng 1.29k now and occasionally have the problem where the D2 does not output video on startup. I had this problem consistently with 1.29j and 1.20. Otherwise no complaints.


This generation of Pioneer plasmas have an outboard video processor called the Media Receiver. All inputs go into the Media Receiver, and a combination DVI and MDR20 cable connects from the Media Receiver to the panel. I'm exploring bypassing the Media Receiver and connecting the D2 directly to the panel using a HDMI-DVI adapter.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13086075
> 
> 
> May I ask all the D2 owners on here who are using HDMI to their HDTV,... what brand and model of HDTV you are using? And has everyone been happy with how the HDMI has worked with their HDTV? Thanks.



Digital Projection Titan 1080p-250 projector - all firmwares have worked great


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13086075
> 
> 
> May I ask all the D2 owners on here who are using HDMI to their HDTV,... what brand and model of HDTV you are using? And has everyone been happy with how the HDMI has worked with their HDTV? Thanks.



Epson Home Cinema 1080. I've used almost all the firmware versions from 1.20 to 1.29j without any problems.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/13085832
> 
> 
> I ordered the ARC upgrade today and will advise once received.



Did you order directly from Anthem, or from your local dealer?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My ARC upgrade order was placed through my local Anthem Statement dealer who got a quote of $499 from Anthem, and was told the order would be put on "backorder" until the upgrades start shipping. Anthem and his distribution rep told him that should happen this month.


If Anthem is actually accepting orders from dealers, then that likely means they are indeed within 30 days of shipping the upgrades (due to US rules on handling backorders).

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13088057
> 
> 
> Did you order directly from Anthem, or from your local dealer?



As of today, the ARC-1 is not available yet as an upgrade. At least not here in the NY tri-state area.


If, by placing an order, you mean your dealer is putting you on a waiting list then that makes sense. I hope their not taking money from you just yet.


----------



## gdc

I just ordered my ARC upgrade kit through my dealer. The salesperson quoted the NW distributor as saying it would be a week and a half!










I'm not holding my breath, but I figured I had better get in the queue.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13056112
> 
> 
> Nick had advised me that you should EQ. the sub first then run ARC last.
> 
> 
> I don't remember his rationale unfortunately.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13056045
> 
> 
> For folks who have Bass EQ stuff already -- particularly with bass response measurement equipment or even automatic processing as with the Velodyne D series subs or SMC-1 sub EQ product -- does Anthem suggest you get your bass as good as you can get it using the sub-specific product BEFORE running the ARC-1 measurement stuff? Or should you run your sub-specific stuff "flat" and lean on the ARC-1's measurement and processing to do it all?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


You asked the question quoted above earlier in this thread and I still stand by my answer which is, of course, subject to Nick's response as follows:


"Since rooms and systems vary the only sure answer comes from trying both ways in each setup but when there isn't time for experimenting, start with ARC alone. If the calculated lines and target lines closely resemble one another then all should be well. If, on the other hand, the calculated line is still quite wavy, run the sub's eq and re-do ARC after that. The sub's eq will free up ARC resources so they can focus on the mids.


And as you know, if the sub's eq is going to be used, it *must* be running when ARC starts playing its sweeps, otherwise ARC won't be measuring the sub's real performance."


I prefer to free up the ARC resources which is why I suggested you run the sub eq. first. It should be noted that your sub eq. is also quite good.


I'm sure in the end you, of all people, will run every possible permutation and give us your feedback.


Jim


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13088057
> 
> 
> Did you order directly from Anthem, or from your local dealer?



I ordered the ARC upgrade from the dealer where I originally purchased the D2.


----------



## lalarsons

Sony KDL-52XBR2 via HDMI. All component firmware updates in place, running D2 with 1.29j. No issues with display or other components.


Note: Except Apple TV has HDMI handshake issues and now using component/optical until resolved.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/13089089
> 
> 
> Note: Except Apple TV has HDMI handshake issues and now using component/optical until resolved.



We might be using that option for a very long while.


I doubt it is something Apple can FIX with Software


----------



## buyrightlow

Just installed my D2, after upgrading from the avm50. All went well, except I only get blue screen when trying to connect my pc to the d2 using a dvi to hdmi cable and/or adapter (as I tried using different cables and adapters to see if this would fix the problem). The pc works fine when using the dvi to vga adapter to hook up to my existing monitor, but the d2 can't seem to find it when set to tv, hdmi 3, which is the input location. What steps should I go through to isolate and fix the problem? I'm using a pretty fancy nvidia card with 2 dvi outs. The d2/marantz 15vp is a great combination.


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13089353
> 
> 
> I doubt it is something Apple can FIX with Software



I'm afraid you may be right....more cable clutter. I think you'll agree that component level video/D2 combo isn't bad, and no issues of course with optical.


I primarily use the ATV for iTunes (Apple lossless) playback and viewing our accumulating cache of digital pictures that before went unenjoyed, but this could change depending on what Apple has on the horizon ahead for video. If you haven't already, check out iLounge for an early glimpse of ATV2 software......now back to our original program.....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/13089728
> 
> 
> I'm afraid you may be right....more cable clutter. I think you'll agree that component level video/D2 combo isn't bad, and no issues of course with optical.
> 
> 
> I primarily use the ATV for iTunes (Apple lossless) playback and viewing our accumulating cache of digital pictures that before went unenjoyed, but this could change depending on what Apple has on the horizon ahead for video. If you haven't already, check out iLounge for an early glimpse of ATV2 software......now back to our original program.....



I have DVRs that I compared frame by frame between

Component at 1080i and HDMI at 1080i. I could not see

the difference.


I just bought my Apple TV when Apple announced HD

Movie Rentals. I'm still waiting for the software update

to enable that feature


----------



## dmorse4765

The software update was released this am.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/13090234
> 
> 
> The software update was released this am.



Yippee - I can't wait until tonight to turn my theater on


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/13090234
> 
> 
> The software update was released this am.



Does anyone know if it solves the D2 HDMI issue?


----------



## dmorse4765

From what I have read it only enables the download of movies from iTunes. Said nothing about any other updates.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13090493
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if it solves the D2 HDMI issue?



From what I have read it only enables the download of movies from iTunes. Said nothing about any other updates.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13090493
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if it solves the D2 HDMI issue?



An iTunes SW update is not going to do anything with HDMI. '


Component out of the Apple TV looks just fine with a D2.

The Apple TV won't output more than 720p and the D2

does a great job converting that to 1080p.


==================================

I just did the Apple TV SW update - it takes at least 15

minutes will all the reboots. FYI


----------



## Jean_Pierre

New D2 with v1.21, Set it up and saved User Settings. Great Video & Audio.


After making some changes in setup, I re-loaded the User Settings. Immediately the picture began to shake/jitter, horizontal lines and horizontal dots all across. All sources have the same problem, Audio is fine. I proceeded to disconnect my 3 HDMI sources and just put the OSD on screen. Still the same problem. Turn both TV & D2 OFF then back then back ON). Same problems on all sources and on OSD. To eliminate the TV, I connected the sources directly, problem gone (not the TV).


I contacted Anthem service via email and they recommended that I load v1.29k, which I did last night. Powered the D2 back ON after install and all is fine. New firmware loaded perfectly and version confirmed by Status.


I tuned off the D2 from the front panel and turn it back ON later to find that the video problem is the same as before. Proceeded to turn TV & D2 off (front panel) then back ON a few times. Same issue. I then powered Off the D2 (with the rear switch) and then back ON. Problem the same. I found that if I power Off the D2 (rear switch) for more than 5 minutes and then back on the video is fine. I can switch sources back & forth and video remains OK.


I also noted that if I change the Video Out Config from 1 to 2 (scrolling down in setup) the problem re-occurs (Config 2 is same as 1). The only way to get the D2 to perform is by powering it off for 5-10 minutes. The D2 is in the open so it is not a heat problem. I also tried different Video Out resolution to TV.


I re-loaded the v1.29k firmware but this has not resolved this issue. I tried to turn the TV ON way before the D2 of after the D2 w/o success.


Note that I had a loaned D2 (v1.2) for a few weeks prior to this w/o having any of those issues. My setup/components are identical.


Any recommendations/suggestions?










TV: Panasonic TH-65PZ750U (Output 1: NTSC, HDMI, 1920 x 1080p/60, Data: YCbCr 4:4:4) All HDMI sources have Repeater set to No.


All sources are HDMI


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/13089531
> 
> 
> Just installed my D2, after upgrading from the avm50. All went well, except I only get blue screen when trying to connect my pc to the d2 using a dvi to hdmi cable and/or adapter (as I tried using different cables and adapters to see if this would fix the problem). The pc works fine when using the dvi to vga adapter to hook up to my existing monitor, but the d2 can't seem to find it when set to tv, hdmi 3, which is the input location. What steps should I go through to isolate and fix the problem? I'm using a pretty fancy nvidia card with 2 dvi outs. The d2/marantz 15vp is a great combination.



A number of posters here have found the "DVI Detective" product, which I believe is from Gefen, helps solve such issues. The problem is usually EDID issues (i.e., passing the acceptable configuration info between the devices), and with PC cards this is often compounded by the fact that they like to change resolutions while coming alive.

--Bob


----------



## andygiddings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13084404
> 
> 
> You may be the victim of "floating black levels" in your RPTV when the RGB input is used. If the TV is expecting that input to be used for computer output it may be automatically or accidentally changing the black levels according to the average signal brightness to give you more dynamic range. Not so much a problem if you are viewing the mostly static imagery from a computer.
> 
> 
> To test this use a test chart which has moving black bars on one half of the screen and a solid gray patch on the other half of the screen where you can select different brightness levels of the solid gray patch from black to white. If you have floating blacks in the TV then the Brightness setting that is correct for the moving black bars when the gray patch is dark will not also work when the gray patch is light (i.e., when the average screen brightness varies because you are viewing a different brightness for that gray patch).
> 
> 
> There may be a way in the display's service menu to disable that (assuming it is an option and not just a mistake). But I have no idea.
> 
> 
> I also don't know why it would work OK for you at 480p but not at higher res.
> 
> --Bob



JoeC5 and Bob P, thanks for your replies. Just tried Pioneer tech support and there is no way to change this setup via the service menu or tweaking the set.


Bob, as you are the master of video settings for the Anthem, what would you recommend in this context where I have an HDMI cable leaving the Anthem to the HDFury and into an RGB input on the RPTV? I know I need to set the resolution to the native resolution of the RPTV but what about the other settings in Video Output? I've probably tried them all but I might have not tried all possible permutations!!


Andy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jean_Pierre* /forum/post/13090940
> 
> 
> New D2 with v1.21, Set it up and saved User Settings. Great Video & Audio.
> 
> 
> After making some changes in setup, I re-loaded the User Settings. Immediately the picture began to shake/jitter, horizontal lines and horizontal dots all across. All sources have the same problem, Audio is fine. I proceeded to disconnect my 3 HDMI sources and just put the OSD on screen. Still the same problem. Turn both TV & D2 OFF then back then back ON). Same problems on all sources and on OSD. To eliminate the TV, I connected the sources directly, problem gone (not the TV).
> 
> 
> I contacted Anthem service via email and they recommended that I load v1.29k, which I did last night. Powered the D2 back ON after install and all is fine. New firmware loaded perfectly and version confirmed by Status.
> 
> 
> I tuned off the D2 from the front panel and turn it back ON later to find that the video problem is the same as before. Proceeded to turn TV & D2 off (front panel) then back ON a few times. Same issue. I then powered Off the D2 (with the rear switch) and then back ON. Problem the same. I found that if I power Off the D2 (rear switch) for more than 5 minutes and then back on the video is fine. I can switch sources back & forth and video remains OK.
> 
> 
> I also noted that if I change the Video Out Config from 1 to 2 (scrolling down in setup) the problem re-occurs (Config 2 is same as 1). The only way to get the D2 to perform is by powering it off for 5-10 minutes. The D2 is in the open so it is not a heat problem. I also tried different Video Out resolution to TV.
> 
> 
> I re-loaded the v1.29k firmware but this has not resolved this issue. I tried to turn the TV ON way before the D2 of after the D2 w/o success.
> 
> 
> Note that I had a loaned D2 (v1.2) for a few weeks prior to this w/o having any of those issues. My setup/components are identical.
> 
> 
> Any recommendations/suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TV: Panasonic TH-65PZ750U (Output 1: NTSC, HDMI, 1920 x 1080p/60, Data: YCbCr 4:4:4) All HDMI sources have Repeater set to No.
> 
> 
> All sources are HDMI



In your Video Output configuration, make sure Preferred = HDMI.


For each input, make sure Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF.


Also try using the alternate setting for Video Output / Sync. The correct setting should produce a solid picture on your TV that requires essentially no horizontal repositioning.


If none of those does it, you may have a cabling problem. The act of removing the HDMI cables and reinserting them changes the connection characteristics. First carefully remove them and use a flashlight to check for any signs of pin damage in the plugs or sockets. Presuming you find none, carefully reinsert them and make sure they are inserted all the way in without any pressure on the cable pushing or pulling the plug in any direction. If necessary, find a way to support the cable. It only takes a little looseness in the socket to screw up the connection.


You didn't mention how long your cable was between the Anthem and the TV, but if it is longer than 10 feet it might be wise to try this experiment:


* Power everything down, disconnect everything from the Anthem.


* Move the Anthem closer to your TV temporarily. You won't need any sources or speaker connections for this test.


* Hook up a good quality HDMI cable that's around 6 feet long or so and see if you can get solid video when viewing the Anthem's internally generated video (Video Source Adjust / Patterns)


If the shorter cable seems to work reliably at 1080p for you then your current cable might just not be making good electrical contact for some reason.


You might also want to bring the Anthem to your dealer and hook it up to a TV there. If it still shows the problem then it will be pretty obvious it is a video board failure in your Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/13086846
> 
> 
> Panasonic 50XVS30 (plasma). All D2 firmware upgrades versions that I have loaded have worked fine with the TV. My problems stem more from the Scientific Atlanta 8300HD set top box. Even with 1.29j I have HDMI handshake issues, but a second boot of the D2 sorts that out.



I have that same HD DVR box Kruginator. I get my D2 installed Thursday. They said currently the Scientific Atlantic 8300HD does the HDMI handshake. But I do worry it may be problematic. I also have a DirecTV HDDVR. I use both. I wonder if I should just go component out the 8300HD and HDMI out the DirecTV?

Thank you everyone for your replies. I was just curious on how many are using HDMI from the D2 to their HDTV and if overall you were happy on how it has worked so far. I am excited and nervous about the install. I don't want tons of problems and for the HDTV to work 50% of the time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andygiddings* /forum/post/13091306
> 
> 
> JoeC5 and Bob P, thanks for your replies. Just tried Pioneer tech support and there is no way to change this setup via the service menu or tweaking the set.
> 
> 
> Bob, as you are the master of video settings for the Anthem, what would you recommend in this context where I have an HDMI cable leaving the Anthem to the HDFury and into an RGB input on the RPTV? I know I need to set the resolution to the native resolution of the RPTV but what about the other settings in Video Output? I've probably tried them all but I might have not tried all possible permutations!!
> 
> 
> Andy



If your TV has a bad case of "floating blacks" on that input, there is nothing I can think of that you can do in the Anthem settings to counter that. I don't know the HDFury product, so I don't think I've got any suggestions for you except for the obvious (a different TV).


Really about the only thing you can play with on the Anthem side is the output Data Format (Setup / Video Output). The fancier controls for Gamma and such available through the Live Video Settings Editor will not fix the problem you have described. So try the other Data Format choices. You might just luck out.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz

You might want to try the SW update.


Some people from another forum are speculating

that the update might fix our Anthem HDMI problem.


All my gear is rack mounted and I'll wait until the

weekend to try it myself or one of you can tell me

before hand that it DID or DIDN'T WORK.


I did do the software update today - but I didn't

switch to HDMI OUT.


----------



## buyrightlow

I've place an order for the detective. Anything else I might try while waiting? Would really like to see the pc working throught the D2. The Marantz VP15 with the D2 is nothing short of awesome. Makes my old AVM50/Optoma7100 look like chopped liver.


----------



## dmorse4765

I just read on the AppleTV discussion forum that the software update will upconvert to 1080P if you connect to the TV with HDMI cable. This was with a Yamaha receiver which has no scaling like the D2 does. Someone will have to try it.


----------



## RMK

I updated my Apple TV to version 2.0 and tried connecting via HDMI to the D2 running 1.30. With output set to 1080i the D2 showed no video input signal. The display showed the Apple logo right after restarting the Apple TV, then disappeared completely after displaying some screen garbage.


With the output set to 720P the D2 showed a video input signal of 720P but the display was a solid red. I saw no option to allow for 1080P but this might only be available if you have a stable HDMI connection.


I went back to component video at 1080i and the toslink connection. It works just fine and saves an HDMI input on the D2 for something else. If someone gets this working, please let us know your configuration.


Robert


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13085174
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> 
> Check Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color Space for the HDTV input in the Anthem and make sure you have Studio RGB checked (as well as Auto YCbCr).
> 
> 
> In your HDTV set top box, see if you have a setting for its output data format. If it is an HDMI box you should be using YCbC4 4:4:4 from it, but it may default to RGB for some silly reason.
> 
> 
> Make sure you have properly set up the black levels (Brightness) and white levels (Contrast) in your TV using the Anthem's internally generated test patterns (Video Source Adjust / Patterns / Color Bars). See the Anthem manual for guidance. This is independent of any source.
> 
> 
> After doing that, you should not need to make any significant adjustment in the Anthem's input level settings (Video Source Adjust / Picture) for your HDMI inputs if they are sending the proper Data Format to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> When checking the Oppo, the test pattern in DVE for setting black levels (Brightness control in the Anthem's input level settings), has 3 moving black bars. However the rightmost bar is actually "Blacker Than Black". The background is digital 16, the right bar is digital 7, the middle bar is digital 25 and the left bar is digital 21.
> 
> 
> So crank up Brightness until you can see all 3 moving black bars (just to verify all the data is getting into the Anthem), but then turn Brightness back down until the right hand bar vanishes completely (i.e., merges into the surrounding black background) and the left hand bar either vanishes or is just barely visible. Depending on your TV you may prefer either way for that.
> 
> 
> Again, check the level controls in your TV *FIRST* using the Anthem's internal test chart. Then, don't fiddle with the TV controls after that. Use the Anthem's input level controls to fine tune for each source device.
> 
> 
> Now, if you have DVE's moving black bars showing the proper results then you should trust those results. If you are still seeing HDTV as darker then it is probably the HDTV side which is not calibrated properly. This could easily be the result of the HDTV set top box sending Extended RGB to the Anthem instead of YCbCr 4:4:4 (for and HDMI output from the box) or Studio RGB (for a DVI output from the box).
> 
> 
> =================================
> 
> 
> EDITED TO ADD: I don't know what HDTV set top box you are using. My Comcast box is made by Motorola, and the way you get to its video setup stuff is that you power it off with its remote, and then, while it is off, hit menu on the remote. There is a second page of settings just for HDMI outptut. When those settings are right, hit menu again to save them, and then power on to turn the box on normally. I just mention this because the method for getting to the video setup stuff in your HDTV set top box may be equally arcane.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I believe I have done all those steps correctly. There are no adjustments of that type with my Satellite receiver. It is a Bell Expressvu 9200, which I believe is an older version of Dishnets 622?


----------



## Jean_Pierre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13091388
> 
> 
> In your Video Output configuration, make sure Preferred = HDMI.
> 
> 
> For each input, make sure Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF.
> 
> 
> Also try using the alternate setting for Video Output / Sync. The correct setting should produce a solid picture on your TV that requires essentially no horizontal repositioning.
> 
> 
> If none of those does it, you may have a cabling problem. The act of removing the HDMI cables and reinserting them changes the connection characteristics. First carefully remove them and use a flashlight to check for any signs of pin damage in the plugs or sockets. Presuming you find none, carefully reinsert them and make sure they are inserted all the way in without any pressure on the cable pushing or pulling the plug in any direction. If necessary, find a way to support the cable. It only takes a little looseness in the socket to screw up the connection.
> 
> 
> You didn't mention how long your cable was between the Anthem and the TV, but if it is longer than 10 feet it might be wise to try this experiment:
> 
> 
> * Power everything down, disconnect everything from the Anthem.
> 
> 
> * Move the Anthem closer to your TV temporarily. You won't need any sources or speaker connections for this test.
> 
> 
> * Hook up a good quality HDMI cable that's around 6 feet long or so and see if you can get solid video when viewing the Anthem's internally generated video (Video Source Adjust / Patterns)
> 
> 
> If the shorter cable seems to work reliably at 1080p for you then your current cable might just not be making good electrical contact for some reason.
> 
> 
> You might also want to bring the Anthem to your dealer and hook it up to a TV there. If it still shows the problem then it will be pretty obvious it is a video board failure in your Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks for the response.


D2 is setup as you suggested.


Tried it with a short 4-ft 1080p capable cable with same problem.

Also tried it on different TV (with different cables) and with only 1 HDMI source connected ... same problem.

I then change the source to component... again same problem.


The interesting thing is that if I power off the D2 for 5-10 min and then back ON, I get a rock solid picture. It's only when I shut it down from the front panel and back ON that I have the video problem. Can it be due to new firmware version?


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RMK* /forum/post/13093906
> 
> 
> I updated my Apple TV to version 2.0 and tried connecting via HDMI to the D2 running 1.30. It works just fine and saves an HDMI input on the D2 for something else. If someone gets this working, please let us know your configuration.
> 
> 
> Robert



With the D2 running 1.29J, no video or audio from HDMI after ATV update and various resolution settings. Back to component/optical.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jean_Pierre* /forum/post/13094329
> 
> 
> Bob, thanks for the response.
> 
> 
> D2 is setup as you suggested.
> 
> 
> Tried it with a short 4-ft 1080p capable cable with same problem.
> 
> Also tried it on different TV (with different cables) and with only 1 HDMI source connected ... same problem.
> 
> I then change the source to component... again same problem.
> 
> 
> The interesting thing is that if I power off the D2 for 5-10 min and then back ON, I get a rock solid picture. It's only when I shut it down from the front panel and back ON that I have the video problem. Can it be due to new firmware version?



Try rolling back to 1.21d - always works for me.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

What was software update 1.29j suppose to fix? Is 1.3 on the new D2's the same?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/13089032
> 
> 
> I ordered the ARC upgrade from the dealer where I originally purchased the D2.



I called Anthem yesterday, and I was told that the ARC-1, for existing D2 owners, is still in beta and no due date has been set yet for when it will be available. So what gives? Is it still in beta or is it available? My local dealer told me that right now they are only shipping with the new D2s, and he has not heard when they will be available for existing D2 owners.


----------



## ninja12

Does anyone know how to get to the system menu on a Verizon FIOS DVR/HDMI set top box?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RMK* /forum/post/13093906
> 
> 
> I updated my Apple TV to version 2.0 and tried connecting via HDMI to the D2 running 1.30. With output set to 1080i the D2 showed no video input signal. The display showed the Apple logo right after restarting the Apple TV, then disappeared completely after displaying some screen garbage.
> 
> 
> With the output set to 720P the D2 showed a video input signal of 720P but the display was a solid red. I saw no option to allow for 1080P but this might only be available if you have a stable HDMI connection.
> 
> 
> I went back to component video at 1080i and the toslink connection. It works just fine and saves an HDMI input on the D2 for something else. If someone gets this working, please let us know your configuration.
> 
> 
> Robert



Thanks Robert for that update. That is the exact

behavior I got also BEFORE the Apple TV update.

So they didn't fix anything. Of course since others

on a different forum say it works on their setup.


Could that mean a finger point at Anthem


----------



## buddy4711




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/13089531
> 
> 
> Just installed my D2, after upgrading from the avm50. All went well, except I only get blue screen when trying to connect my pc to the d2 using a dvi to hdmi cable and/or adapter (as I tried using different cables and adapters to see if this would fix the problem). The pc works fine when using the dvi to vga adapter to hook up to my existing monitor, but the d2 can't seem to find it when set to tv, hdmi 3, which is the input location. What steps should I go through to isolate and fix the problem? I'm using a pretty fancy nvidia card with 2 dvi outs. The d2/marantz 15vp is a great combination.



works just fine with mine. having connected a IBM thinkpad on docking station trough DVI/HDMI to D2 on AUX input. important: set resolution (e.g. 1920x1080) and display option for laptop and external monitor on windows. I am able to display 720p or 1080i or 1080p material from the PC (and the 720p and 1080i is transformed into 1080p by the D2). Great pictures and sound (sound does not go through the DVI/HDMI but by an analog cable)


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13097001
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how to get to the system menu on a Verizon FIOS DVR/HDMI set top box?



On the Fios/DVR thread there are some directions.


----------



## johnuustal

Is it possible for the D2 to play a 7.1 truehd source? If the HDMI in the D2 can only pass 5.1, is there any way to send those other 2 channels through the D2?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnuustal* /forum/post/13097361
> 
> 
> Is it possible for the D2 to play a 7.1 truehd source? If the HDMI in the D2 can only pass 5.1, is there any way to send those other 2 channels through the D2?



NO --- But it does a great job converting 5.1 to 7.1.

I doubt you will notice the difference.


----------



## Ian_Currie

Related question: How does the D2 handle a 7.1 source (i.e. via HDMI)? Does it simply drop 2 channels or does it mix them?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/13098138
> 
> 
> Related question: How does the D2 handle a 7.1 source (i.e. via HDMI)? Does it simply drop 2 channels or does it mix them?



I know it only processes 5.1


I assume they are DROPPED because it is a HDMI

issue. Anthem does not support 7.1 over HDMI - so

I assume the Anthem never sees the two that are dropped.


All I know is Marc [FilemMixer] who is a PROFESSIONAL

Movie Sound Engineer and owns a D2. He say he can't

hear the difference.


----------



## johnuustal

It depends on the source, i suppose. Some 7.1 discs are not really utilizing the extra 2 channels for anything important, but some mixes will have discrete localized sound effects from a particular channel rather than just ambient sound. If they want to place something behind you or even behind you and to the left (and not on the sides), they can do that now rather than just putting ambient noise all around the surround channels.


Would a switch to 7.1 over hdmi (from 5.1 over hdmi) be a software upgarde for the D2 if Anthem decides to do it or will that have to wait for a hardware upgrade?


----------



## metallicafreak

You are talking about when the player decodes the signal then sends 5.1/7.1 channels over the HDMI right (distinguished from when a 6.1 DTS-ES/DD-EX bitstream is sent over the HDMI decoded by the D2)?

FREAK!


Q2: Any differences between the current software (1.29j?) and 1.2 that I got with my D2? Any reason I should upgrade? The only issues I have are an occasional green screen (rare) and no setup menu on screen (still on the unit screen though).


Love my D2!


FREAK!


----------



## johnuustal

yeah, i am talking about the 5.1/7.1 decoded in the player and sent over hdmi to the D2. the D2 can handle 6 channel pcm (which is 5.1 as i understand it, 5.1 is six channels) sent over its hdmi connection, but not 8 channels. if the decoding is done in the player we dont need hdmi 1.3, but it would be nice to have the D2 accepting 8 channel pcm sent over the hdmi 1.1after being decoded int he player so we could enjoy the 7.1 sountracks as intended.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RMK* /forum/post/13093906
> 
> 
> I updated my Apple TV to version 2.0 and tried connecting via HDMI to the D2 running 1.30. With output set to 1080i the D2 showed no video input signal. The display showed the Apple logo right after restarting the Apple TV, then disappeared completely after displaying some screen garbage.
> 
> 
> With the output set to 720P the D2 showed a video input signal of 720P but the display was a solid red. I saw no option to allow for 1080P but this might only be available if you have a stable HDMI connection.
> 
> 
> I went back to component video at 1080i and the toslink connection. It works just fine and saves an HDMI input on the D2 for something else. If someone gets this working, please let us know your configuration.
> 
> 
> Robert



For those trying the new Apple TV software with their Anthem: I don't have an Apple TV but I've found two reports that might be worth following up.


First, even though the new Apple TV software enables 1080i and 1080p output over HDMI, the content the Apple TV is playing is, by one account, still limited to 720p. In that case, sending 720p to the Anthem and letting it do the scaling for you is probably still your best bet.


Second, by another report the HDMI output has a new option in that Apple TV software. You can set the data format of the HDMI output to Auto, YCbCr, "RGB High", or "RGB Low". By default it is set at Auto. Since that doesn't seem to be working through the Anthem (even with new Anthem software by early reports here), I suggest you try the other 3 options to see if they work better. RGH High and Low undoubtedly refer to Studio RGB vs. Extended RGB. My guess would be that their RGB High = Studio RGB (but there's no on this). If you use one of those you will also need to double check that you have the matching setting in the Anthem's Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color Space menu for that input. Setting an explicit value may make it easier for the HDMI handshake to happen with the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13094256
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I believe I have done all those steps correctly. There are no adjustments of that type with my Satellite receiver. It is a Bell Expressvu 9200, which I believe is an older version of Dishnets 622?



Check for a thread on the Bell set top box in the HD receiver or recorder forum here. They may have info in there on how to change its output data format.


If the Bell is sending RGB to the Anthem and you can't find a way to change that, and you find the imaging from the Bell is darker than what you are seeing with properly calibrated video from the Oppo DVD player, then you should try switching the Anthem's Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color Space setting from Studio RGB to Extended RGB for the Anthem input you are using for viewing the Bell HD set top box as the Bell may be sending Extended RGB to the Anthem for some reason.


You may also then need to redo the basic input level adjustments in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Picture) for that Bell HD input. Don't change anything on the output side of the Anthem -- either in Video Output or in your display.


If you have, indeed, properly calibrated the levels for the Oppo, then you should trust the picture you are getting from the Oppo and focus on what's going on with the video from the Bell. The Oppo's imaging is now your gold standard.


If the Bell is sending Extended RGB to the Anthem, and you have the Anthem input set to expect Studio RGB (which is its default for RGB sources), then what is happening is that the Bell is encoding "Black" in its output signal as digital 0 while the Anthem is expecting it to be digital 16. That means the first 16 steps of dark grays are being interpreted by the Anthem a "Blacker Than Black" and so they aren't being displayed (assuming proper setup and calibration on the display side of the Anthem). The upshot is that the imaging looks darker than it should -- i.e., you are clipping (losing) the details in the image represented by the darkest grays near black and everything else in the image is shifted darker by 16 steps. A similar problem is also occurring in the near whites, but that is more difficult for the eye to detect. Setting the Anthem to expect Extended RGB from a source which can only send Extended RGB is the way to fix that.


But if you DO find a way to get the Bell to send either YCbCr 4:4:4 or even Studio RGB that is a better solution.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jean_Pierre* /forum/post/13094329
> 
> 
> Bob, thanks for the response.
> 
> 
> D2 is setup as you suggested.
> 
> 
> Tried it with a short 4-ft 1080p capable cable with same problem.
> 
> Also tried it on different TV (with different cables) and with only 1 HDMI source connected ... same problem.
> 
> I then change the source to component... again same problem.
> 
> 
> The interesting thing is that if I power off the D2 for 5-10 min and then back ON, I get a rock solid picture. It's only when I shut it down from the front panel and back ON that I have the video problem. Can it be due to new firmware version?



It could be that you have a bad firmware install, but it is sounding like a hardware failure.


You should try this test using NO input source devices -- i.e., select an Anthem input with no video source connected and just view the Anthem's own internally generated video (the Setup menu, but even more important the Video Source Adjust / Patterns test patterns for that input). This will eliminate anything on the input side of the Anthem as the source of the problem and confirm that it is a problem on the display side of the Anthem.


If you can't see the problem when viewing just the Setup menu or the Patterns then the problem is on the input side of the Anthem. If you see the problem only in the Setup menu but not also in the Patterns then the problem is with the S-video image generating hardware in the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13096996
> 
> 
> I called Anthem yesterday, and I was told that the ARC-1, for existing D2 owners, is still in beta and no due date has been set yet for when it will be available. So what gives? Is it still in beta or is it available? My local dealer told me that right now they are only shipping with the new D2s, and he has not heard when they will be available for existing D2 owners.



It looks like dealers (and the public) are being given different answers. We'll just have to wait and see how it pans out. But there's nothing really left for Anthem to do except make enough ARCs with the possible exception of validating that the new software installs properly and works well in older D2s.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis

Is anybody using the D2 with a PS Audo Power Plant? Any views, positive or negative about the whole regenerating power thing when using a D2?


----------



## SilentSlug




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13099292
> 
> 
> Is anybody using the D2 with a PS Audo Power Plant? Any views, positive or negative about the whole regenerating power thing when using a D2?



I use a Power Plant in my stereo room, not with my D2, but I wanted to pass on that when I use the multiwave feature of the power plant my CD player skips on playback so be prepared to experiment with the settings of the power plant to get the best sound.


----------



## HTfanatic4life

Question -- are there discrete IR codes for sub-source or virtual source selections like there are in the RS-232 protocol? For example, I have 2 players on the DVD input button; through IR can I select either one regardless of the current ‘state’ of the input button?


The D2 remembers what previous ‘virutal’ DVD input I have selected, but pressing the button just iterates through the list and I want to set up macros on my remote to select either player in a predictable fashion.


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13099292
> 
> 
> Is anybody using the D2 with a PS Audo Power Plant? Any views, positive or negative about the whole regenerating power thing when using a D2?



I have used the D2 with a number of power conditioners:

- PS Audio Power Director 3.5 (worked OK)

- Richard Gray RGPC 400 Pro (worked OK, but now used for the P5)

- Audiophile APS PurePower 1050 (in use currently and is my current favourite).


All made a positive difference, but the latter has been the best.


I tried using the 1050 with the P5, but the P5 blew the 1050 because the current draw on turn-on was so high-something like 89w. This happened 2x, so it had to be repaired 2x, finally I had to accept the current draw on turn-on of the P5 was too high for the 1050. When I turn on the P5, even with the Richard Gray, my lights dim momentarily in the apartment.


----------



## andygiddings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTfanatic4life* /forum/post/13099609
> 
> 
> Question -- are there discrete IR codes for sub-source or virtual source selections like there are in the RS-232 protocol? For example, I have 2 players on the DVD input button; through IR can I select either one regardless of the current ‘state’ of the input button?
> 
> 
> The D2 remembers what previous ‘virutal’ DVD input I have selected, but pressing the button just iterates through the list and I want to set up macros on my remote to select either player in a predictable fashion.



Think these are listed as macros at the end of the manual. There are something like 3 key presses (THX, 8, 5 for example) for each virtual input that you can program into a Harmony or other programmable remote


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTfanatic4life* /forum/post/13099609
> 
> 
> Question -- are there discrete IR codes for sub-source or virtual source selections like there are in the RS-232 protocol? For example, I have 2 players on the DVD input button; through IR can I select either one regardless of the current state' of the input button?
> 
> 
> The D2 remembers what previous virutal' DVD input I have selected, but pressing the button just iterates through the list and I want to set up macros on my remote to select either player in a predictable fashion.



Yes. See Appendix A of the manual. You can set up multi-key sequences in your programmable remote for direct access to the overlayed inputs (e.g., DVD2) as well as for audio settings.


Unfortunately, there are no IR codes available to directly access the various video settings (Crop Input for example). I sure wish Anthem could add those.

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13099292
> 
> 
> Is anybody using the D2 with a PS Audo Power Plant? Any views, positive or negative about the whole regenerating power thing when using a D2?



The manual for the D1 (which, I assume, is the same for the D2) states:


"Do Not Use A Power Line Conditioner"...some power line conditioners are incompatible with the D1 and may cause the D1's AC line fuses to blow...one is not required because the D1's power supply has power line filtering and voltage regulation built in."


----------



## bgrounds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13099292
> 
> 
> Is anybody using the D2 with a PS Audo Power Plant? Any views, positive or negative about the whole regenerating power thing when using a D2?



I am using a power plant with a D2 - sounds great but I probably couldn't tell a difference if it were a "regular" filter/surge protector


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13099047
> 
> 
> the content the Apple TV is playing is, by one account, still limited to 720p. In that case, sending 720p to the Anthem and letting it do the scaling for you is probably still your best bet.
> 
> 
> Second, by another report the HDMI output has a new option in that Apple TV software. You can set the data format of the HDMI output to Auto, YCbCr, "RGB High", or "RGB Low". By default it is set at Auto.



I knew about the 720p Content and I have it outputting

720p to the D2.


I didn't see those OTHER options - but maybe the options

only show up when it detects a HDMI connection being used.


It is worth a try.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnuustal* /forum/post/13098406
> 
> 
> 
> Would a switch to 7.1 over hdmi (from 5.1 over hdmi) be a software upgarde for the D2 if Anthem decides to do it or will that have to wait for a hardware upgrade?



NO - It is a hardware limitation within the Anthem.


----------



## HTfanatic4life

andygiddings, Bob, thanks!


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13099170
> 
> 
> Check for a thread on the Bell set top box in the HD receiver or recorder forum here. They may have info in there on how to change its output data format.
> 
> 
> If the Bell is sending RGB to the Anthem and you can't find a way to change that, and you find the imaging from the Bell is darker than what you are seeing with properly calibrated video from the Oppo DVD player, then you should try switching the Anthem's Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color Space setting from Studio RGB to Extended RGB for the Anthem input you are using for viewing the Bell HD set top box as the Bell may be sending Extended RGB to the Anthem for some reason.
> 
> 
> You may also then need to redo the basic input level adjustments in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Picture) for that Bell HD input. Don't change anything on the output side of the Anthem -- either in Video Output or in your display.
> 
> 
> If you have, indeed, properly calibrated the levels for the Oppo, then you should trust the picture you are getting from the Oppo and focus on what's going on with the video from the Bell. The Oppo's imaging is now your gold standard.
> 
> 
> If the Bell is sending Extended RGB to the Anthem, and you have the Anthem input set to expect Studio RGB (which is its default for RGB sources), then what is happening is that the Bell is encoding "Black" in its output signal as digital 0 while the Anthem is expecting it to be digital 16. That means the first 16 steps of dark grays are being interpreted by the Anthem a "Blacker Than Black" and so they aren't being displayed (assuming proper setup and calibration on the display side of the Anthem). The upshot is that the imaging looks darker than it should -- i.e., you are clipping (losing) the details in the image represented by the darkest grays near black and everything else in the image is shifted darker by 16 steps. A similar problem is also occurring in the near whites, but that is more difficult for the eye to detect. Setting the Anthem to expect Extended RGB from a source which can only send Extended RGB is the way to fix that.
> 
> 
> But if you DO find a way to get the Bell to send either YCbCr 4:4:4 or even Studio RGB that is a better solution.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks so much Bob. I will see what I can find out about the Bell.


----------



## RMK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13099047
> 
> 
> For those trying the new Apple TV software with their Anthem: I don't have an Apple TV but I've found two reports that might be worth following up.
> 
> 
> First, even though the new Apple TV software enables 1080i and 1080p output over HDMI, the content the Apple TV is playing is, by one account, still limited to 720p. In that case, sending 720p to the Anthem and letting it do the scaling for you is probably still your best bet.
> 
> 
> Second, by another report the HDMI output has a new option in that Apple TV software. You can set the data format of the HDMI output to Auto, YCbCr, "RGB High", or "RGB Low". By default it is set at Auto. Since that doesn't seem to be working through the Anthem (even with new Anthem software by early reports here), I suggest you try the other 3 options to see if they work better. RGH High and Low undoubtedly refer to Studio RGB vs. Extended RGB. My guess would be that their RGB High = Studio RGB (but there's no on this). If you use one of those you will also need to double check that you have the matching setting in the Anthem's Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color Space menu for that input. Setting an explicit value may make it easier for the HDMI handshake to happen with the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


The menu which allows for the HDMI output adjustment on the Apple TV does not appear in the Apple TV Video Settings menu when the device is connected via component video to the D2. I'm assuming it is available once you have a valid HDMI connection which doesn't help in this case.


Robert


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RMK* /forum/post/13105071
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> The menu which allows for the HDMI output adjustment on the Apple TV does not appear in the Apple TV Video Settings menu when the device is connected via component video to the D2. I'm assuming it is available once you have a valid HDMI connection which doesn't help in this case.
> 
> 
> Robert



Again, I don't have one of these, so I'm flying blind. But it may be possible to temporarily hook the Apple TV to ANY TV which has an an HDMI input, just long enough to set the HDMI output data format setting in the Apple TV. Then try it again with HDMI to the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Jean_Pierre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13099228
> 
> 
> It could be that you have a bad firmware install, but it is sounding like a hardware failure.
> 
> 
> You should try this test using NO input source devices -- i.e., select an Anthem input with no video source connected and just view the Anthem's own internally generated video (the Setup menu, but even more important the Video Source Adjust / Patterns test patterns for that input). This will eliminate anything on the input side of the Anthem as the source of the problem and confirm that it is a problem on the display side of the Anthem.
> 
> 
> If you can't see the problem when viewing just the Setup menu or the Patterns then the problem is on the input side of the Anthem. If you see the problem only in the Setup menu but not also in the Patterns then the problem is with the S-video image generating hardware in the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



As per ASW's suggestion, I rolled back the firmware to v1.21d (also tried v1.2) with same result but would not loose synch to TV only horizontal lines and not at every power On/Off cycle.


Bob, I tried it w/o any sources connected, it does not seem to make a difference. In limited testing, I could not make it happen when I lowered the output resolution to 1280 x 720p with v1.21d.


Again tried different cables and TV so at this point I am sure that I have a hardware failure that is reset when the unit is completely powered Off. With v.21d, I only have to cycle the power with the On/Off switch for less than 1 minute to restore a rock solid image


Bob, ASW thanks for your suggestions.


----------



## bgrounds

I know some of this isn't hashed out yet but I am wondering what the initial opinions are. The depth's have a 25hz boost option and a volume control. Would the thought be to turn both to max volume (boost) and let ARC take care of the rest?


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/13100943
> 
> 
> The manual for the D1 (which, I assume, is the same for the D2) states:
> 
> 
> "Do Not Use A Power Line Conditioner"...some power line conditioners are incompatible with the D1 and may cause the D1's AC line fuses to blow...one is not required because the D1's power supply has power line filtering and voltage regulation built in."



Hmm, I couldn't find that statement in the D2 1.1 manual.


I'm curious - has anyone noticed an improvement in audio quality after adding a line conditioner to their D2/AVMxx? Wondering whether I should invest in a good one...Thanks.


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13107440
> 
> 
> Hmm, I couldn't find that statement in the D2 1.1 manual.
> 
> 
> I'm curious - has anyone noticed an improvement in audio quality after adding a line conditioner to their D2/AVMxx? Wondering whether I should invest in a good one...Thanks.



In my experience I do notice a change for the positive when I use a power conditioner. Refer to my post #11384 above.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

I am having my D2 installed now. I use a power conditioner.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

My D2 is being put into a cabinet right now. The installer said the D2 runs very warm to hot. He said I may need a fan. It is vented at the back of the built in cabinet he's putting in. Do I need a fan?

My other Surround Sound Processor did not.


----------



## bgrounds

I use a fan with a cabinet with an open back...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/13107403
> 
> 
> I know some of this isn't hashed out yet but I am wondering what the initial opinions are. The depth's have a 25hz boost option and a volume control. Would the thought be to turn both to max volume (boost) and let ARC take care of the rest?



Do a manual pass with the Setup / Speaker Level Calibration menu in the Anthem and set the volume on sub so that the adjustment in the Anthem is reasonably close to 0dB for the sub to get the same, target, SPL reading at your listening position as you get from one of the front speakers. Then run ARC to fine tune things. You should use a Radio Shack Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter to test this as judging sub volume by ear is difficult.


Alternatively, run ARC repeatedly while adjusting the subs internal volume until ARC has little level adjustment to do for the sub.


I don't know these subs in particular, but with most subs, cranking their internal volume all the way up is a bad move -- it makes their internal power amp work too hard and introduces distortion. In addition, the Anthem only has limited range above and below 0dB for level adjustment, so if you have the subs volume set wrong you may not be able to get it into balance using the Anthem's adjustment (manual or via ARC).


As for the 25Hz boost, your best option is probably to run ARC with it set both ways and see which one gets you a smoother result compared to the target curves. It will depend upon your room's characteristics and the placement of the sub near or away from walls for example.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13107440
> 
> 
> Hmm, I couldn't find that statement in the D2 1.1 manual.
> 
> 
> I'm curious - has anyone noticed an improvement in audio quality after adding a line conditioner to their D2/AVMxx? Wondering whether I should invest in a good one...Thanks.



I think power line conditioners are a waste of money. The power supply in the D2 (and AVM-50) is good enough to do what needs to be done along those lines.


Surge protection YES. Power line conditioning NO.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13108411
> 
> 
> My D2 is being put into a cabinet right now. The installer said the D2 runs very warm to hot. He said I may need a fan. It is vented at the back of the built in cabinet he's putting in. Do I need a fan?
> 
> My other Surround Sound Processor did not.



It depends how big the space is in the cabinet (particular the free height ABOVE the D2, how big the opening is in the back, and whether there are any other heat sources in that same space in the cabinet. I have my D2 in a double-height space (completely open in the back) so that it has more than a foot of free space above it and it's working fine.


Invest in one of those temperature sensors (often sold in cooking stores) which look a bit like a gun and allows you to point it at a surface to measure its temperature remotely. They usually come with a little laser light for pointing. Use the sensor to measure the temp of the interior surfaces of the cabinet above and around the D2 (not the D2 itself). See how warm those cabinet surfaces are getting. If the walls and horizontal surface above the D2 are warming up a lot then the D2 is inside an oven. That means you need a fan. If they are staying reasonably close to room temperature, then the D2 is having no trouble dissipating the heat even inside that cabinet space.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13099259
> 
> 
> It looks like dealers (and the public) are being given different answers. We'll just have to wait and see how it pans out. But there's nothing really left for Anthem to do except make enough ARCs with the possible exception of validating that the new software installs properly and works well in older D2s.
> 
> --Bob



My dealer said he spoke to Anthem today, and they are not taking ARC-1 orders yet (he expects it will be a few months).


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13109337
> 
> 
> It depends how big the space is in the cabinet (particular the free height ABOVE the D2, how big the opening is in the back, and whether there are any other heat sources in that same space in the cabinet. I have my D2 in a double-height space (completely open in the back) so that it has more than a foot of free space above it and it's working fine.
> 
> 
> Invest in one of those temperature sensors (often sold in cooking stores) which look a bit like a gun and allows you to point it at a surface to measure its temperature remotely. They usually come with a little laser light for pointing. Use the sensor to measure the temp of the interior surfaces of the cabinet above and around the D2 (not the D2 itself). See how warm those cabinet surfaces are getting. If the walls and horizontal surface above the D2 are warming up a lot then the D2 is inside an oven. That means you need a fan. If they are staying reasonably close to room temperature, then the D2 is having no trouble dissipating the heat even inside that cabinet space.
> 
> --Bob



The cabinet has a lot of space above the Processor. The doors can completely open in the back. But it's bedroom so I just leave them cracked.

By the way the D2 really improved the picture quality. Woweee! It sounds great too. They did not use the Arc. They are going to get trained on it and then come back and use it. This is version 1.30


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/13107403
> 
> 
> I know some of this isn't hashed out yet but I am wondering what the initial opinions are. The depth's have a 25hz boost option and a volume control. Would the thought be to turn both to max volume (boost) and let ARC take care of the rest?



hi,

IO have dual depths and tried the max volume and it was not good. Have settled on a volume setting of 6 currently and seems to be very good. I did similar to what Bob suggested earlier. Have been doing a lot of experimentation but have decided to settle for a while and evaluate.

/\\/\\


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13110265
> 
> 
> My dealer said he spoke to Anthem today, and they are not taking ARC-1 orders yet (he expects it will be a few months).



Last week I spoke to Nick at Anthem and he specificaly said we were looking at weeks and not months before they start taking orders.


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13109262
> 
> 
> I think power line conditioners are a waste of money. The power supply in the D2 (and AVM-50) is good enough to do what needs to be done along those lines.
> 
> 
> Surge protection YES. Power line conditioning NO.
> 
> --Bob




I have an Equi=tech 1.5Q balanced power conditioner and I can honestly say that I heard the difference with my previous processor however I didn't test to see the difference with my D2 when I got it. I am sure it will still have a noticable audible improvement. Wether it actually is worth the money for the slight improvement in all based on personal opinion and ultimately how much $$ one has to invest in such devices.


I was also sketical on power cords until I tried one on my system...... a few months later I ended up with 7 powercords at a cost of approx. $6000+! Worth it?? It all depends on one's quest for the best quality regarless of cost and little regard in the law of dimishing returns......


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13109262
> 
> 
> I think power line conditioners are a waste of money. The power supply in the D2 (and AVM-50) is good enough to do what needs to be done along those lines.
> 
> 
> Surge protection YES. Power line conditioning NO.
> 
> --Bob



My power line conditioner made a difference in my set-up. I use to own a Monster HTS-2600. I noticed at times after several hours of playing my amp began to make this humming noise. So, I contacted the manufacture and told them my problem. The tech suggested that I get the Rotel RLC-1040. Since I got the RLC-1040, I have not heard the humming since. It's been close to a year now. It also improved my PQ as well. So, it was worth it for me.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13110265
> 
> 
> My dealer said he spoke to Anthem today, and they are not taking ARC-1 orders yet (he expects it will be a few months).



I talked to my dealer today, and he contacted his Anthem distributor. The distributor told him that the ARC-1 will not be available for order to existing D2owners for about 2 weeks to 30 days.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13108411
> 
> 
> My D2 is being put into a cabinet right now. The installer said the D2 runs very warm to hot. He said I may need a fan. It is vented at the back of the built in cabinet he's putting in. Do I need a fan?
> 
> My other Surround Sound Processor did not.



I thought that problem was fixed when they switched from the Gennum 9350 Video Chip to the Gennum 9351 Video Chip. I had my D2 for about a month now, and it doesn't get warm at all. In fact, during the Super Bowl, I had it on about all day, and it didn't get hot. The cabinet that I have it in allows air to flow in through the front, side, and back of it.


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13113709
> 
> 
> I thought that problem was fixed when they switched from the Gennum 9350 Video Chip to the Gennum 9351 Video Chip. I had my D2 for about a month now, and it doesn't get warm at all. In fact, during the Super Bowl, I had it on about all day, and it didn't get hot. The cabinet that I have it in allows air to flow in through the front, side, and back of it.



Does anyone recall what video board colors are associated with the Gennum 9350 and 9351 Video Processor chips?


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/13113825
> 
> 
> Does anyone recall what video board colors are associated with the Gennum 9350 and 9351 Video Processor chips?



I've had both (changed out to fix my PS3 "crackling noise" problem). The original had a green board visible through the top slots. The new one has a pink board.


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/13113825
> 
> 
> Does anyone recall what video board colors are associated with the Gennum 9350 and 9351 Video Processor chips?



the 9351 board is red/pink


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13114385
> 
> 
> I've had both (changed out to fix my PS3 "crackling noise" problem). The original had a green board visible theough the top slots. The new one has a pink board.



do you still have the PS3 crackling thing? What software version do you have?


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/13114396
> 
> 
> do you still have the PS3 crackling thing? What software version do you have?



No. Changing out the D2 fixed that entirely. I'm running 1.12s (aka 1.20, I believe), with no problems.


My next firmware will be whatever is required for ARC1, whenever Anthem get around to accepting orders...


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13114487
> 
> 
> No. Changing out the D2 fixed that entirely. I'm running 1.12s (aka 1.20, I believe), with no problems.
> 
> 
> My next firmware will be whatever is required for ARC1, whenever Anthem get around to accepting orders...



you say changing out the D2 fixed it....do you mean that they changed the board or the whole D2? Under warranty?


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/13114520
> 
> 
> you say changing out the D2 fixed it....do you mean that they changed the board or the whole D2? Under warranty?



The whole D2, under warranty. Twice. Third time charm, I guess.


I can't say enough good things about Anthem tech support.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13113709
> 
> 
> I thought that problem was fixed when they switched from the Gennum 9350 Video Chip to the Gennum 9351 Video Chip. I had my D2 for about a month now, and it doesn't get warm at all. In fact, during the Super Bowl, I had it on about all day, and it didn't get hot. The cabinet that I have it in allows air to flow in through the front, side, and back of it.



Mine is not getting that warm. It is what the installer told me today. But so far I have run it all day long and it's just slightly warm. So I don't think I need a fan at all.

I was surprised how much better the D2 sounds then the Lexicon MC-12. It's a warmer sound and more detailed. A good combo. Movies sound better, TV shows like 'Lost' tonight, sounded and looked much better than with my previous Lexicon.

So far I am thrilled. By the way how long would everyone say it usually takes for the D2 to break in? 100 hours? 200 hours? Most high end pieces like this have some kind of break in period. What is everyones experience?


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13110265
> 
> 
> My dealer said he spoke to Anthem today, and they are not taking ARC-1 orders yet (he expects it will be a few months).





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/13113129
> 
> 
> Last week I spoke to Nick at Anthem and he specificaly said we were looking at weeks and not months before they start taking orders.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13113660
> 
> 
> I talked to my dealer today, and he contacted his Anthem distributor. The distributor told him that the ARC-1 will not be available for order to existing D2owners for about 2 weeks to 30 days.



Well at least we've got the straight scoop


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bigmoviefan,

I didn't notice ANY break-in period with my D2.


It was great from the first day.


Oh, and I believe these are for you:






































--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13115718
> 
> 
> Bigmoviefan,
> 
> I didn't notice ANY break-in period with my D2.
> 
> 
> It was great from the first day.
> 
> 
> Oh, and I believe these are for you:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. And it does sound great right now.

By the way do any of you use the AM/FM radio? I have no antenna with it so of course it doesn't receive anything. I don't really care but my wife said she wants to listen to the radio on weekend mornings. Of course many Processors don't have an AM/FM radio so I never real thought about the D2 having this feature. Maybe I should take advantage of this feature and hook up an antenna.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13115650
> 
> 
> Mine is not getting that warm. It is what the installer told me today. But so far I have run it all day long and it's just slightly warm. So I don't think I need a fan at all.
> 
> I was surprised how much better the D2 sounds then the Lexicon MC-12. It's a warmer sound and more detailed. A good combo. Movies sound better, TV shows like 'Lost' tonight, sounded and looked much better than with my previous Lexicon.
> 
> So far I am thrilled. By the way how long would everyone say it usually takes for the D2 to break in? 100 hours? 200 hours? Most high end pieces like this have some kind of break in period. What is everyones experience?



When I listened to the Lexicon at my dealer, I didn't hear that much in the sound to justify the price difference between the MC-12 and the D2. Plus, the D2 has the Gennum which also made my decision much easier. I know that I made the right choice, and I have not stopped grinning yet. It's to the point now that my wife is always joining me for movies. She use to come and join me on occassions; but, now, she's telling me let's go watch something. I think she has a thing for my D2. I will have to keep a close eye on them two.


----------



## jpillar

Why does the Anthem Logic Cinema sound lowder than the Dolby 5.1 PLIIx Movie on my D2. On some DVDs the Movie is in 5.1 but the previews are in AL-Cinema or when your in the root menu the sound switches to AL-Cinema and the volume is much lowder.


----------



## drhankz

*FYI*


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13117238
> 
> *FYI*



Good thing i only spent 199 on that xbox hd dvd add-on drive and bought a very small handful of discs...long live BluRay let's hope 


There are many folks who spent considerably more on this technology...I guess it was a risk we all took knowingly, but i feel for everyone out there who is on their 2nd or 3rd HD-DVD player, and countless discs, etc. Makes me appreciate Netflix more I guess, that's for sure...this truly will go down as a bad chapter in the CE racket.


Brian


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/13117685
> 
> 
> Good thing i only spent 199 on that xbox hd dvd add-on drive and bought a very small handful of discs...long live BluRay let's hope
> 
> 
> There are many folks who spent considerably more on this technology...I guess it was a risk we all took knowingly, but i feel for everyone out there who is on their 2nd or 3rd HD-DVD player, and countless discs, etc. Makes me appreciate Netflix more I guess, that's for sure...this truly will go down as a bad chapter in the CE racket.
> 
> 
> Brian



I bought the GEN 1 Toshiba and the GEN 1 Pioneer - BOTH

at day one. I am happy with both and I knew by the time

the format war settled out - I would know which next gen

something to buy










It is the price you pay for early adoption!


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13117809
> 
> 
> I bought the GEN 1 Toshiba and the GEN 1 Pioneer - BOTH
> 
> at day one. I am happy with both and I knew by the time
> 
> the format war settled out - I would know which next gen
> 
> something to buy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the price you pay for early adoption!



Yep, totally agree, just sympathizing with those who may not have prepared for this eventuality. It will be interesting to see if Microsoft chooses to join the dark side and eventually release a BluRay add-on drive for the Xbox...thankfully, I won't be buying it, I'm enjoying the Pio 94HD BR too much!


Cheers all!

Brian


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13117238
> 
> *FYI*



I am thinking this could be an attempt by Blue Ray to stampede the market out of its HD support.


Ben


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/13117685
> 
> 
> Good thing i only spent 199 on that xbox hd dvd add-on drive and bought a very small handful of discs...long live BluRay let's hope
> 
> 
> There are many folks who spent considerably more on this technology...I guess it was a risk we all took knowingly, but i feel for everyone out there who is on their 2nd or 3rd HD-DVD player, and countless discs, etc. Makes me appreciate Netflix more I guess, that's for sure...this truly will go down as a bad chapter in the CE racket.
> 
> 
> Brian





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13117809
> 
> 
> I bought the GEN 1 Toshiba and the GEN 1 Pioneer - BOTH
> 
> at day one. I am happy with both and I knew by the time
> 
> the format war settled out - I would know which next gen
> 
> something to buy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the price you pay for early adoption!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/13118201
> 
> 
> Yep, totally agree, just sympathizing with those who may not have prepared for this eventuality. It will be interesting to see if Microsoft chooses to join the dark side and eventually release a BluRay add-on drive for the Xbox...thankfully, I won't be buying it, I'm enjoying the Pio 94HD BR too much!
> 
> 
> Cheers all!
> 
> Brian



I hope I can convey this correctly.

As an HD DVD only early adopter:

I appreciate the feelings of sympathy but they're really not necessary.

As the Dr. said, the price of early adoption...

I knew I was taking a risk. My only feelings of sourgrapes relate to the fact that I deluded myself into thinking that in buying HD DVD products I was helping HD DVD to succeed in the market place.

In reality my "vote" didn't mean a hill of beans.

Bu$ine$$ deal$ and exclusive contracts actually decided the outcome.

I foolishly ignored the fact that multi-national corporations don't care about consumers anymore than fleas care about dogs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpillar* /forum/post/13116807
> 
> 
> Why does the Anthem Logic Cinema sound lowder than the Dolby 5.1 PLIIx Movie on my D2. On some DVDs the Movie is in 5.1 but the previews are in AL-Cinema or when your in the root menu the sound switches to AL-Cinema and the volume is much lowder.



Double check that you haven't accidentally set any of the "temporary" audio volume adjustments using your remote. These are remembered on a per-source and per-input-audio-type basis so it is easy to think you have cleared one you were playing with when you actually still have it in there for some other source or audio type.


The easiest way to clear all of these in one go is as follows:


* Go to Setup / Save & Restore Settings


* Save User Settings


* Restore Factory Defaults. You may lose video at this point but you can continue using the Front Panel display.


* Reload User Settings. Video should return now if you lost it.


The "temporary" settings are not saved so this clears all of them.


Next, re-check your speaker calibration levels in the Setup menu. It is best to use a Radio Shack Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter to do this as it is hard to do this well by ear alone. Everyone uses these meters. They are inexpensive. In the Setup menu for speaker level, pick a target SPL reading (75dB is commonly used for home theater setup), test and adjust and make sure all of your speakers are producing this same level (including your subwoofer).


The PLIIx and AL-Cinema modes do different degrees of sound steering between speakers. So if your speakers are not well matched in volume level the result may be an increase or decrease in overall volume.


That said, there are some differences, typically, between audio tracks. This is just the way the tracks were mastered. It's much like discovering that commercials on a given TV channel may be much louder than the normal program content. Personally I haven't found volume differences between tracks on movie discs to be anywhere near as annoying as what often happens while watching or changing TV channels.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis

After reading and rereading the manual about 100 times it seems that this is the most logical thing for me to do with a 7.1 system. Does anyone disagree? Does anyone think that the Anthem surrounds are better?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13118474
> 
> 
> I foolishly ignored the fact that multi-national corporations don't care about consumers anymore than fleas care about dogs.



So true - it is evil to have created yet another format war.


No Consumer wants a format war.


----------



## EL




> Quote:
> After reading and rereading the manual about 100 times it seems that this is the most logical thing for me to do with a 7.1 system. Does anyone disagree? Does anyone think that the Anthem surrounds are better?



Using the "walk around the room" of VE (the old one) in 5.1 where the narator's voice is circling in a clock wise direction in the room, PrologicIIx gave me the best transition in 7.1


----------



## jayray

THX Ultra 2 seems fine in my 7.1 setup. Tried Dolby and really couldn't tell much difference.


John


ps. couldn't have said it better Milt


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13118638
> 
> 
> 
> Next, re-check your speaker calibration levels in the Setup menu. It is best to use a Radio Shack Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter to do this as it is hard to do this well by ear alone. Everyone uses these meters. They are inexpensive. In the Setup menu for speaker level, pick a target SPL reading (75dB is commonly used for home theater setup), test and adjust and make sure all of your speakers are producing this same level (including your subwoofer).
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I know that you have the DD15, and you probably use the DD15 eq to calibrate your sub to your mains. Do you trust the Radio Shack SPL Meter, as far as the LFE is concerned, over the DD15s mic? The reason that I ask is because I calibrated my DD18 to my mains around 76db according to the frequency graph for the EQ for the DD18. I have a pretty smooth line across the frequencies except for at 50hz. I have a 4 db drop at 50hz which I live with. Anyway, when I use the Radio Shack SPL meter to measure the sound coming from the sub, it shows 82 db. However, I don't adjust it because the Velodyne frequency that I used to calibrate was 76db.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13119948
> 
> 
> I know that you have the DD15, and you probably use the DD15 eq to calibrate your sub to your mains. Do you trust the Radio Shack SPL Meter, as far as the LFE is concerned, over the DD15s mic? The reason that I ask is because I calibrated my DD18 to my mains around 76db according to the frequency graph for the EQ for the DD18. I have a pretty smooth line across the frequencies except for at 50hz. I have a 4 db drop at 50hz which I live with. Anyway, when I use the Radio Shack SPL meter to measure the sound coming from the sub, it shows 82 db. However, I don't adjust it because the Velodyne frequency that I used to calibrate was 76db.



Measuring audio is tricky. The exact positioning and pointing direction of the mic can give you different results. As can whether you are standing close to the mic when it is measuring. And for bass, what you measure at different listening positions will often vary due to room nodes. Also, bass is much more susceptible to room variations such as whether even a closet door is open.


With my DD15 I go back and forth between the Anthem's test tones and the DD15 test tones. Keep in mind that the DD15 is sending a "stereo" signal that is being steered by the Anthem -- part going back to the sub and part to the LF and RF speakers. In addition, the volume level you hear from the Velodyne's test tones varies according to the main volume setting you have on the Anthem, whereas the Anthem test tones don't go through that (they have their own volume control in the menu for setting the basic test level). So you would not expect an exact match between the two ways of testing.


Set the Anthem main volume at -10dB and calibrate the speakers to 75dB using the Anthem's test tones and you will get the closest match when playing the Velodyne's test tones measured through the Velodyne mic -- also with the Anthem main volume at -10dB and the Anthem set to "Stereo" audio mode. That's just how the Anthem test tones are set up (i.e., so that a 75dB Anthem test tone calibration yields 85dB in normal playback of "reference" audio when the Anthem main volume is set at 0dB, or 75dB when the Anthem main volume is set to -10dB).


So basically I get the DD15 into balance with the other speakers using the Anthem tones and the SPL meter. Then I do the DD15 EQ adjustments. Then I measure SPL again. The important thing with the SPL measurements is that you keep the meter in the same place while measuring all speakers. It is the relative difference between the speakers that matters (when measured at any given location) much more than the absolute level you are measuring. I.e., the 75dB target is just a convenient target that works well for most home theaters. You could have targeted 70dB, say, in which case an Anthem main volume setting of 0dB would yield 80dB for "reference" audio content playback. It's just a matter of taste.


Just remember that an Anthem main volume setting of -10dB during normal playback corresponds to the SPL level you set for the speakers using the Anthem's internally generated test tones, given that "reference level" audio happens to be coming from the content for any given speaker at that moment. A main volume setting above or below that would yield higher or lower SPL from each speaker when the content audio level is "reference" level.


Theaters are calibrated to 85dB. So if you calibrate to 75dB and play movies at an Anthem main volume setting of 0dB you will be hearing the same sort of volume used in theaters. Most people find this too loud for home theater (where you don't have to deal with audience noise for example). That's why 75dB is the normal target for home theater.


I also measure at a few different listening positions (both with the SPL and with the Velodyne's mic, and work for the best compromise result -- not completely flat bass response at any one location, but quite close at all of them. If my room were acoustically perfect, I wouldn't have to do that. But it isn't, and the compromise results work much MUCH better for me than "perfection" measured only at the center listening position.


The bottom line is that when I finished I had a nice, reasonably flat, curve from the Velodyne (showing in the over 70-ish dB range and good balance for all the speakers using the SPL meter (also measuring in the over 70-ish dB range). And although the precise curve and SPL measurements varied at different listening positions it was still reasonably flat and properly balanced at all positions and the variation was not enough to worry about.


I would expect the ARC to be able to do this even better.


There are some more details on how I did my DD-15 stuff in a write up post you'll find in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13120557
> 
> 
> Measuring audio is tricky. The exact positioning and pointing direction of the mic can give you different results. As can whether you are standing close to the mic when it is measuring. And for bass, what you measure at different listening positions will often vary due to room nodes. Also, bass is much more susceptible to room variations such as whether even a closet door is open.
> 
> 
> With my DD15 I go back and forth between the Anthem's test tones and the DD15 test tones. Keep in mind that the DD15 is sending a "stereo" signal that is being steered by the Anthem -- part going back to the sub and part to the LF and RF speakers. In addition, the volume level you hear from the Velodyne's test tones varies according to the main volume setting you have on the Anthem, whereas the Anthem test tones don't go through that (they have their own volume control in the menu for setting the basic test level). So you would not expect an exact match between the two ways of testing.
> 
> 
> Set the Anthem main volume at -10dB and calibrate the speakers to 75dB using the Anthem's test tones and you will get the closest match when playing the Velodyne's test tones measured through the Velodyne mic -- also with the Anthem main volume at -10dB and the Anthem set to "Stereo" audio mode. That's just how the Anthem test tones are set up (i.e., so that a 75dB Anthem test tone calibration yields 85dB in normal playback of "reference" audio when the Anthem main volume is set at 0dB, or 75dB when the Anthem main volume is set to -10dB).
> 
> 
> So basically I get the DD15 into balance with the other speakers using the Anthem tones and the SPL meter. Then I do the DD15 EQ adjustments. Then I measure SPL again. The important thing with the SPL measurements is that you keep the meter in the same place while measuring all speakers. It is the relative difference between the speakers that matters (when measured at any given location) much more than the absolute level you are measuring. I.e., the 75dB target is just a convenient target that works well for most home theaters. You could have targeted 70dB, say, in which case an Anthem main volume setting of 0dB would yield 80dB for "reference" audio content playback. It's just a matter of taste.
> 
> 
> Just remember that an Anthem main volume setting of -10dB during normal playback corresponds to the SPL level you set for the speakers using the Anthem's internally generated test tones, given that "reference level" audio happens to be coming from the content for any given speaker at that moment. A main volume setting above or below that would yield higher or lower SPL from each speaker when the content audio level is "reference" level.
> 
> 
> Theaters are calibrated to 85dB. So if you calibrate to 75dB and play movies at an Anthem main volume setting of 0dB you will be hearing the same sort of volume used in theaters. Most people find this too loud for home theater (where you don't have to deal with audience noise for example). That's why 75dB is the normal target for home theater.
> 
> 
> I also measure at a few different listening positions (both with the SPL and with the Velodyne's mic, and work for the best compromise result -- not completely flat bass response at any one location, but quite close at all of them. If my room were acoustically perfect, I wouldn't have to do that. But it isn't, and the compromise results work much MUCH better for me than "perfection" measured only at the center listening position.
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that when I finished I had a nice, reasonably flat, curve from the Velodyne (showing in the over 70-ish dB range and good balance for all the speakers using the SPL meter (also measuring in the over 70-ish dB range). And although the precise curve and SPL measurements varied at different listening positions it was still reasonably flat and properly balanced at all positions and the variation was not enough to worry about.
> 
> 
> I would expect the ARC to be able to do this even better.
> 
> 
> There are some more details on how I did my DD-15 stuff in a write up post you'll find in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Your response was very detail and very informative. I would like to clarify one thing. You set the Noise Ref Level, in the calibration menu, to -10db and calibrate your speakers and sub to 75db. Is that correct?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13122264
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Your response was very detail and very informative. I would like to clarify one thing. You set the Noise Ref Level, in the calibration menu, to -10db and calibrate your speakers and sub to 75db. Is that correct?



Not quite.


You set the Noise Ref Level in the calibration menu so that the LF speaker measures 75dB. [This will be independent of where you happen to have left the main volume setting before entering Setup, but I usually set main volume to -10dB while doing this just for convenience after leaving the Setup menu.]


The proper calibration adjustment itself for the LF speaker will then be 0dB of course since the Ref Level was set using that speaker as the basis for measurement.


Now you adjust the calibration for all the REST of your speakers to 75dB using that SAME Noise Ref Level you just set using the LF speaker. Each of your other speakers will likely need an adjustment up or down from 0dB to produce a measured 75dB SPL.


When you are done, all the speakers are now calibrated to produce the same level -- the 75dB SPL level measured with your Radio Shack meter. Exit Setup and go listen to stuff.


So what does that mean in real listening terms? What it means is that when you set the main volume to -10dB and play audio that happens to include "reference level" audio passages (as adjusted by the editors making that audio track) then you will get 75dB SPL out of each speaker being fed that "reference level" content. [NOTE: Surrounds and Rears are almost never fed audio content at that high a volume level.]


That is, the absolute audio volume levels that result from what you are setting in the calibration menu correspond to what the Anthem will produce playing real stuff when its main volume is set to -10dB.


Now what's critical here is actually the RELATIVE volume levels -- i.e., that all the speakers are set to measure the same SPL reading when you play the test tone. The ABSOLUTE volume levels -- what the speakers will produce when playing a "reference" audio passage with the main volume set to -10dB is purely up to your taste. The 75dB target is just good guidance. Just as it is purely up to your taste how you set the main volume when listening.


It's just useful to know that whatever you used as an SPL target during calibration (75dB or 70dB or 80dB or whatever) corresponds to what you are getting when you play stuff later at a main volume setting of -10dB. [At least for the speakers that are presenting the bulk of that audio.]


Please also note that PEAK volume in audio tracks can easily be 15dB higher than "reference level" volume. So over short periods of explosions and such you will be getting quite a bit more than 75dB out of your system even though you used 75dB as your calibration target.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

Bob


When I calibrate my speakers, I have to set the Noise Ref to +3db in order for my LF to read 75db on my RS SPL Meter. It actually shows +3db[THX] on the menu. Anyway, I then calibrate my remaining speakers based on Noise Ref +3db to 75db. Therefore, I would not be getting 75db unless I set the main volume on the D2 to +3db. However, when I calibrate my sub, I set the main volume to -10db and the Velodyne's frequency graph reads 76db. However, if I try setting the Noise Ref to -10db in the calibration set up menu, I will never get my speakers to read 75db.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13123007
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> When I calibrate my speakers, I have to set the Noise Ref to +3db in order for my LF to read 75db on my RS SPL Meter. It actually shows +3db[THX] on the menu. Anyway, I then calibrate my remaining speakers based on Noise Ref +3db to 75db. Therefore, I would not be getting 75db unless I set the main volume on the D2 to +3db. However, when I calibrate my sub, I set the main volume to -10db and the Velodyne's frequency graph reads 76db. However, if I try setting the Noise Ref to -10db in the calibration set up menu, I will never get my speakers to read 75db.



No. The Noise Ref Level during the calibration test and the Main Volume during normal play are independent except that whatever you set up using the Noise Ref Level corresponds to the volume produced during normal playback of reference level portions of audio tracks whenever the Anthem Main Volume is set to -10db.


Since the Velodyne stuff is playing as a normal audio input, it makes perfect sense that what you calibrated originally using the Anthem's Noise Ref Level at +3dB would also measure the same way when playing the Velodyne's own test audio through the Anthem with the Anthem Main Volume set to -10dB.


So the way it should work is like this:


* Go to Setup / Speaker Level Calibration


* Adjust Noise Ref Level so that the LF measures 75dB SPL. In your case you found that to be +3dB -- which also happens to be the level Anthem used to pass the THX certification so that's why it is marked THX. There's nothing else magical about that THX labeling.


* Adjust calibration levels FOR ALL SPEAKERS without changing that Noise Ref Level you just set. The adjustment for the LF speaker should come out as 0dB since it was used to set the Ref Level in the first place. The adjustment for any of the other speakers may be up or down from 0dB. The adjustment for the subwoofer will depend upon the volume setting you have set inside the subwoofer. Set a volume inside the subwoofer such that the necessary calibration level adjustment in the Anthem is reasonably close to 0dB (again without altering the Noise Ref Level you have already set in the Anthem).


* Now exit the Setup menu.


* Set the Anthem main volume to -10dB. Note this is NOT the Noise Ref Level -- you are done with that Setup menu.


* Play the Velodyne tests. Based on the calibration you just did, the SPL you measure with the Velodyne mic (and for that matter with your SPL meter) should be fairly close to 75dB. But if it is off a little that doesn't matter.


* If for whatever reason you decide to change the volume control inside the Velodyne then you will ALSO need to change the subwoofer calibration level inside the Anthem (in the opposite direction) to get the Velodyne back in balance with the other speakers (or alternatively, adjust ALL the other speakers to match up with the subwoofer again -- i.e., change your target SPL from 75dB to whatever the Velodyne is now producing).

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

Bob


Got it. Thanks again for your advice, time, and patience. I truly appreciate it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Walmart dropped support for HD-DVD today as well. They said HD-DVD will be entirely out of their retail channel by June.


So now we can concentrate on "real" Blu-Ray players (whenever they become available) and "real" 120hz refresh displays that handle 1080p/24 properly (whenever THEY become available).


Meanwhile the next round of HDMI stuff (with accompanying hype) should also be coming on the radar soon.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

It's also rumored that Toshiba has dropped support for HD DVD or is about to drop support for HD DVD. However, someone interviewed an exec at Toshiba and denied that they are dropping support for HD DVD. I'm sure time will tell.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13118474
> 
> 
> I hope I can convey this correctly.
> 
> As an HD DVD only early adopter:
> 
> I appreciate the feelings of sympathy but they're really not necessary.
> 
> As the Dr. said, the price of early adoption...
> 
> I knew I was taking a risk. My only feelings of sourgrapes relate to the fact that I deluded myself into thinking that in buying HD DVD products I was helping HD DVD to succeed in the market place.
> 
> In reality my "vote" didn't mean a hill of beans.
> 
> Bu$ine$$ deal$ and exclusive contracts actually decided the outcome.
> *I foolishly ignored the fact that multi-national corporations don't care about consumers anymore than fleas care about dogs.*



Milt, I think if you are honest about this, you would realize that you _didn't_ ignore the fact that corporations don't care about consumers. The fact is that corporations only care about profits. This isn't necessarily a bad thing. Theoretically, companies that show complete disregard for the consumer will _not_ make profits in the long run. After all, they have to sell a product that consumers actually _want_!


This is how the free market works.


I knew what I was getting into when I bought both formats early on (like DrHankz). I spent $470 on my Toshiba A1, and over $1300 on my Pioneer Elite BD player! I have about 35 HD DVD movies, and I imagine I will eventually repurchase most of them when they are released on Blu-ray.


Such is life as an early adopter in a format war.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13123962
> 
> 
> Milt, I think if you are honest about this, you would realize that you _didn't_ ignore the fact that corporations don't care about consumers. The fact is that corporations only care about profits. This isn't necessarily a bad thing. Theoretically, companies that show complete disregard for the consumer will _not_ make profits in the long run. After all, they have to sell a product that consumers actually _want_!
> 
> 
> This is how the free market works.
> 
> 
> I knew what I was getting into when I bought both formats early on (like DrHankz). I spent $470 on my Toshiba A1, and over $1300 on my Pioneer Elite BD player! I have about 35 HD DVD movies, and I imagine I will eventually repurchase most of them when they are released on Blu-ray.
> 
> 
> Such is life as an early adopter in a format war.



Here here!!! Hey, maybe my box set of Mission Impossible might end up being a collector's item! I think I will keep my HD-DVD drive and movies for my great grandchildren, or at least until the next major video format war, at which time I can pull out my "relics" and say "ya see kids, we've been through this whole thing before...in fact, if you'll give me a minute, I'll reconnect the lost art called HD-DVD that at the time, was the bee's knees..." They will scoff at the idea of *only* 1920x1080 pixel rates, and will laugh at their great grandfather's reminiscing of the first time he laid eyes on Jessica Alba in real HD...ahh yes, the good ole days...


-Brian


----------



## dschamis

Serious question: are there any NYC area D2 owners who recently bought a D2 and therefore have an ARC-1? If so, I'd give you my right arm to let me borrow it for a day! Or, if you have no need for my right arm, I'd happily make a donation to your charity of choice. I live on Long Island and would be happy to drive anywhere within reason. I promise to treat the ARC-1 with the utmost care!


I promise that I am not a psycho (excluding of course my psychotic computer and electronics addiction).


Feel free to either respond on this thread, PM me or email me at [email protected] .


David


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13127176
> 
> 
> Serious question: are there any NYC area D2 owners who recently bought a D2 and therefore have an ARC-1? If so, I'd give you my right arm to let me borrow it for a day! Or, if you have no need for my right arm, I'd happily make a donation to your charity of choice. I live on Long Island and would be happy to drive anywhere within reason. I promise to treat the ARC-1 with the utmost care!
> 
> 
> I promise that I am not a psycho (excluding of course my psychotic computer and electronics addiction).
> 
> 
> Feel free to either respond on this thread, PM me or email me at [email protected] .
> 
> 
> David



I believe Anthem has prohibited that from happening.

Eash ARC-1 is tied to the Serial Number of the D2.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13127195
> 
> 
> I believe Anthem has prohibited that from happening.
> 
> Eash ARC-1 is tied to the Serial Number of the D2.



I didn't realize that. So what does that mean? When I buy an ARC-1 somehow I have to pair it with my existing D2?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13127494
> 
> 
> I didn't realize that. So what does that mean? When I buy an ARC-1 somehow I have to pair it with my existing D2?



I don't know the exact proceedure - but supposedly

you need to supply your serial number when you

order your upgrade.


And Then SOMEHOW they are tied together.


----------



## ninja12

I am willing to bet that the ARC-1 software is checking the serial number that has been assigned to the D2 and the serial number that has been assigned to the ARC-1 mic. If they don't match, then it's not going to work. It's kind of like a check and balance thing. That's how I would do it if I was programming the software.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13127739
> 
> 
> I am willing to bet that the ARC-1 software is checking the serial number that has been assigned to the D2 and the serial number that has been assigned to the ARC-1 mic. If they don't match, then it's not going to work. It's kind of like a check and balance thing. That's how I would do it if I was programming the software.



You got it - the mic comes with a disc that contains software and cal files that are specific to the actual mic in the box and the actual serial number of the D2.

/\\/\\


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13128043
> 
> 
> You got it - the mic comes with a disc that contains software and cal files that are specific to the actual mic in the box and the actual serial number of the D2.
> 
> /\\/\\



Yes SIR Mr. Beta Tester


----------



## drhankz

*The Format War is OVER*


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13128043
> 
> 
> You got it - the mic comes with a disc that contains software and cal files that are specific to the actual mic in the box and the actual serial number of the D2.
> 
> /\\/\\



OK - now I really am counting the minutes until I can buy one of these. I love my D2 and I think that Anthem is a great company with great customer support, but they may contribute to me finally checking myself into a mental institution!


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13129386
> 
> 
> OK - now I really am counting the minutes until I can buy one of these. I love my D2 and I think that Anthem is a great company with great customer support, but they may contribute to me finally checking myself into a mental institution!



Ahh yes - but what a way to go insane!!!























/\\/\\


----------



## bhrvatin

Hello all,


I have been searching the forum but I am unable to find (not that it isn't there) anything like release notes etc. for the firmware releases beyond 1.11. My D2 is on 1.11 and I am curious to see if there is any reason to upgrade to newer firmware. Can someone please point me in the right direction? (I am already aware that 1.11 is the latest *official* release.) Thanks in advance!


Bart


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/13129628
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> 
> I have been searching the forum but I am unable to find (not that it isn't there) anything like release notes etc. for the firmware releases beyond 1.11. My D2 is on 1.11 and I am curious to see if there is any reason to upgrade to newer firmware. Can someone please point me in the right direction? (I am already aware that 1.11 is the latest *official* release.) Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> Bart



This is from 1.12s. Hope this helps.


SOFTWARE UPDATE


CHANGE LIST


v1.20:


For operational changes, see operating manual v1.2x.


1. Setup menu 24 characters wide instead of 28 due to old character generator becoming obsolete.


2. Analog input level meter now has overload indication (pink = signal is within last 6 dB of scale, red = overload).


3. Dual video output configuration added, assignable by input.


4. Setup menus rearranged including split between source setup and mode presets.


5. MODE key shortcuts rearranged to include video-out selection.


6. Contrast adjustment bars added to SMPTE color bar test pattern.


7. Added ability to select HDMI audio-in with alternate video-in.


8. Deleted Bass Peak Level Manager - too many "bass sounds thin" calls arising from misuse, and because decent subs normally don't need external limiting.


9. Major HDMI/EDID driver changes to address capabilities of latest HD disc players and other newer sources without corruption of earlier sources, and to improve 'auto' video-out setting with DVI displays (auto relies on info from the display - if it doesn't appear that the correct output is in effect, use forced settings).


10. Added Dialog Normalization to info when Status is pressed (not displayed when 0 dB).


11. More installer changes to address a variation of XP.


12. Added gamma curve generating tools to Live Video Settings Editor to make curve creation and simple gain/offset adjustments quicker and easier.


13. Upgraded D1s now display "D2" instead of "D1-HD".


14. DVD2 and DVD3 now disabled by default (still set as pillarbox and 16:9 input crop respectively).


15. Improved lock for analog video input.


16. Improved frame lock.


17. Increased serial command buffering at power-on.


18. Improved handling of 1080p24 in to 1080p24 out without using frame lock.



v1.11:


1. In some instances there was a problem installing v1.10 - we apologize for any inconvenience. v1.11 has modified buffering that works with all computers that we could test with. If this does not work, please contact tech support, listing as many details as you can about your computer's hardware and operating system.



v1.10:


As of this version, video source adjustments cannot be made if the selected source has no video input.


1. Added gamma correction (through Live Video Settings Editor).


2. Added custom output resolution and timing (through Live Video Settings Editor).


3. Added frame lock.


4. Added multiple input memory.


5. Reduced number of color space conversions. Note that because of this, if input is RGB and output is RGB, Color and Tint adjustments can no longer be made - simply set your source to YCbCr output instead of RGB if adjustment is necessary.


6. Added colon (







to character set for renaming sources.


7. Increased HDMI compatibility yet again. Known problems are very few at this time. If you are experiencing problems, ensure that all connected equipment has latest drivers installed before contacting tech support (you might need to contact your cable/sat company).


If you need to contact Anthem tech support regarding connectivity from a computer's video output, please provide details including operating system, build of operating system, microprocessor, video card model, software, version of software, and settings. If your computer provides EDID status, that would greatly help as well.



v1.06:


1. Increased HDMI compatibility with a certain DVD player.


2. Removed from menu 8 output resolutions which can't always be supported by HDMI connection due to bandwidth restriction. **YOU MAY NEED TO RESET OUTPUT RESOLUTION IN MENU 8 depending on which you had set. If you cannot see an image on your display after the update, use the front panel display to navigate through the menu. Even if you are getting a picture immediately after this update, check menu 8 to make sure that the output resolution and refresh rate are set correctly since the setting may have changed to another that works, but with lower performance.


If you are saving your settings in menu 12, be sure to back them up after making this change.


If you were using Settings Editor, the wrong value will may stored there. After the software update, save the setup again using Setup Editor v1.06 (now called Setup Editor to prevent confusion with the Live Video Settings Editor).



v1.04:


1. Increased compatibility with HDMI-connected equipment that doesn't follow all of the HDMI spec.


2. Added adjustments for analog video inputs - see pdf file.


Tip: If you are using S-Video inputs and prefer the appearance of the hi-def OSD characters vs the default S-Video ones, you can enable the HD characters with S-Video inputs, although they will appear only when a video signal is present - change first item in menu 11 to HD Only.



v1.00 D2 / v1.01 AVM 50:


1. Initial releases.



---------------------------------------


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13128086
> 
> *The Format War is OVER*



So how do you plan to celebrate VF day (Victory in Format)?


Reuters is now citing internal Toshiba sources saying the official announcement may come as early as next week.


I'm pissed that HD-DVD is caving before Blu-Ray gets its act together though. With the pressure off, I just see more delay and screw ups from the Blu-Ray side -- not to mention a slower rate of price drops.


Ah well. The things we waste time on while waiting for ARC to ship...


(grin!)


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13131835
> 
> 
> So how do you plan to celebrate VF day (Victory in Format)?
> 
> 
> Reuters is now citing internal Toshiba sources saying the official announcement may come as early as next week.
> 
> 
> I'm pissed that HD-DVD is caving before Blu-Ray gets its act together though. With the pressure off, I just see more delay and screw ups from the Blu-Ray side -- not to mention a slower rate of price drops.
> 
> 
> Ah well. The things we waste time on while waiting for ARC to ship...
> 
> 
> (grin!)



The format war was over when Warner went exclusive.

I'm also playing a waiting game to see if the BDA can deliver on the technical & pricing side as well as they did on the PR side.

Rightly or wrongly, I feel that HDM has a limited window of opportunity to gain any kind of meaningful market share.

But those discussions are for another forum









Where's that confounded ARC?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13131835
> 
> 
> So how do you plan to celebrate VF day (Victory in Format)?
> 
> 
> Reuters is now citing internal Toshiba sources saying the official announcement may come as early as next week.
> 
> 
> I'm pissed that HD-DVD is caving before Blu-Ray gets its act together though. With the pressure off, I just see more delay and screw ups from the Blu-Ray side -- not to mention a slower rate of price drops.
> 
> 
> Ah well. The things we waste time on while waiting for ARC to ship...
> 
> 
> (grin!)



Off topic hijak too, but I heard from multiple insiders this week that one of the two remaining studios has also been speaking of it's intentions of switching imminently... like within two months..


TIFWIW...


/hijak


Oh... and hello to all I haven't chatted with in a while


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13131835
> 
> 
> I'm pissed that HD-DVD is caving before Blu-Ray gets its act together though. With the pressure off, I just see more delay and screw ups from the Blu-Ray side -- not to mention a slower rate of price drops.



Wow.


That seems like a lot of hatred towards a format that certainly has been delivering the goods in my HT!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

Yup! I don't like the fact that they pissed away the past two years dithering about stuff (e.g., DTS and the profiles) instead of just getting on with it. And I don't like their approach to trickling out the Blu-Ray "standard" in dribs and drabs. And I don't like the ease with which they give short shrift to standard DVDs in these players, since that should be dead simple for them all to get right.


At this point, it's looking like the first "real" stand-alone players -- ones not deliberately engineered as over-priced throw-aways for early adopters -- won't come out until next year.


Bah! Humbug!


(this message brought to you by the alliance of fed up consumer electronics customers.)


--Bob (curmudgeon) P.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13133485
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> Yup! I don't like the fact that they pissed away the past two years dithering about stuff (e.g., DTS and the profiles) instead of just getting on with it. And I don't like their approach to trickling out the Blu-Ray "standard" in dribs and drabs. And I don't like the ease with which they give short shrift to standard DVDs in these players, since that should be dead simple for them all to get right.
> 
> 
> At this point, it's looking like the first "real" stand-alone players -- ones not deliberately engineered as over-priced throw-aways for early adopters -- won't come out until next year.
> 
> 
> Bah! Humbug!
> 
> 
> (this message brought to you by the alliance of fed up consumer electronics customers.)
> 
> 
> --Bob (curmudgeon) P.



I can understand some disappointment re DTS Master Audio, and even to a lesser extent the profiles, but you make it sound as though the current Blu-ray players are worthless pieces of junk that can't do much of anything....especially when you say they are "deliberately engineered as over-priced throw-aways".


The truth is that I could live with my Pioneer Elite HD1 profile 1.0 player for many more years and be extremely happy with it. It plays all the Blu-ray movies just fine, and I have no reason to expect that it will not continue to do so. The vast majority of movies have either LPCM or TrueHD, so I can get lossless sound through my D2.


I may not be able to play certain extra features that have PiP, and I may not have access to features that require the internet (discs using those features are few and far between currently anyway), but those are minor issues in my opinion in any event. If PiP and internet functionality are really that important to you, then I guess I can understand the frustration...although it seems a little surprising considering that our D2's don't.........oh never mind, I don't want to go down that path.










I believe that Fox is the only studio that is doing DTS HD Master Audio.


And Bob, be honest, you are just pissed that Sony, the "rootkit" of all evil, prevailed!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Awe, you remembered!


Hehehe.


No, I want to buy a player for a standard that's done. I like where Blu-Ray is supposed to be going, I just wish they'd get off their butts and get there! Up to now, Pioneer has been the real exception in Blu-Ray player design. (But lordy, the stuff that Samsung has been putting out!) Anyway, no need to hijack this thread further. I just wanted HD-DVD to hang in there for another solid 6 months before collapsing to force the Blu-Ray manufacturers to get their next two generations of players done faster.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13134524
> 
> 
> Awe, you remembered!
> 
> 
> Hehehe.
> 
> 
> No, I want to buy a player for a standard that's done. I like where Blu-Ray is supposed to be going, I just wish they'd get off their butts and get there! Up to now, Pioneer has been the real exception in Blu-Ray player design. (But lordy, the stuff that Samsung has been putting out!) Anyway, no need to hijack this thread further. I just wanted HD-DVD to hang in there for another solid 6 months before collapsing to force the Blu-Ray manufacturers to get their next two generations of players done faster.
> 
> --Bob



Of course I remembered! Hey, you have to give me a little credit. I even thought my attempt at humor wasn't half bad (the "rootkit" of all evil)!


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13131835
> 
> 
> ...... With the pressure off, I just see more delay and screw ups from the Blu-Ray side -- not to mention a slower rate of price drops.
> 
> 
> (grin!)



Bob,


On the contrary, since competition is gone, there's no reason for Blu-Ray to drop its prices. It may even up them. Remember, Blu-Ray disks cost more to produce than HD.










Ben


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/13132756
> 
> 
> I heard from multiple insiders this week that one of the two remaining studios has also been speaking of it's intentions of switching imminently... like within two months..



Hi Marc


Nice to hear from you again.


I'm surprised the remaining HD DVD studios are even

waiting two months. I know they might have contracts

the run until MAY - but I would think at this point - Toshiba

would not require them to stick to their contract.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13135243
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> On the contrary, since competition is gone, there's no reason for Blu-Ray to drop its prices. It may even up them. Remember, Blu-Ray disks cost more to produce than HD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



Most definitely.


And i wonder how Sony (and the gang) will make up for the tremendous amount of money lost in this catfight too?










This whole episode is a shame.


On the other hand, I can't wait for the next format!


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13136071
> 
> 
> Most definitely.
> 
> 
> And i wonder how Sony (and the gang) will make up for the tremendous amount of money lost in this catfight too?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This whole episode is a shame.
> 
> 
> On the other hand, I can't wait for the next format!



I hate to stay too far OT here, but I actually think this is all a good thing. From my point of view I don't really care if the average price of a BD is $20 or $22 - the fact is that it will certainly come down over time - usually faster than anyone expects. The good news here is that with one winner there will be more titles available, there will be more BD computer hardware and software available, etc. This is good for everyone, even if you did blow a few hundred bucks on a HD-DVD player.


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13135243
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> On the contrary, since competition is gone, there's no reason for Blu-Ray to drop its prices. It may even up them. Remember, Blu-Ray disks cost more to produce than HD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



And let's not forget the potential issues with DRM. With competition gone, could we be headed for the reincarnation of DIVX?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13135243
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> On the contrary, since competition is gone, there's no reason for Blu-Ray to drop its prices. It may even up them. Remember, Blu-Ray disks cost more to produce than HD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



DVD didn't have a format war or "competition". Did they have a reason to "drop" prices? No..not in terms of competition. But they came down, didn't they? The same will happen with Blu-ray. Economies of scale will come into play. They already are, as the Playstation 3 is already costing Sony much less to make than when originally released.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/13132756
> 
> 
> Off topic hijak too, but I heard from multiple insiders this week that one of the two remaining studios has also been speaking of it's intentions of switching imminently... like within two months..
> 
> 
> TIFWIW...
> 
> 
> /hijak
> 
> 
> Oh... and hello to all I haven't chatted with in a while



Welcome back!

I know large corporations require time to do these things but please, just end it.

Prognostications abound on the future of HDM so I won't make any.

My last OT post I promise:

I want HDM, now BR, to succeed.

Today is not 10 years ago. Far more options, technologies & expectations.

Studios drool over digital delivery.

I am playing wait and see.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Filmmixer,

So, how's life without a D2?

(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13137317
> 
> 
> Filmmixer,
> 
> So, how's life without a D2?
> 
> (grin!)
> 
> --Bob



Definitely not as pretty sounding


----------



## bgrounds

If you have you're front L & R speaker crossover set to 80hz what's the difference if you have them set to small or large?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/13139926
> 
> 
> If you have you're front L & R speaker crossover set to 80hz what's the difference if you have them set to small or large?



Setting the LF/RF speakers to "small" will cause the Anthem to "steer" some of the audio that would normally go to them to the subwoofer instead. Steered bass gets mixed in with the audio that is input on the LFE channel and the result is what gets sent to the subwoofer.


So if you set the main speakers to "small" then the cross-over setting controls where this happens.


The cross-over is not a hard cutoff. It rolls off gently (to avoid distorting the audio near that frequency.


That is, not ALL the audio immediately *BELOW* 80Hz will be steered from the LF/RF channels to the subwoofer, and some of the audio *ABOVE* 80Hz will be steered to the subwoofer instead of playing on the LF/RF speakers..


Thus the rule of thumb to set the cross-over for the mains to be at least twice the lowest frequency they are spec'ed to handle. I.e., you want to allow for quality playback from the mains for an octave below the cross-over to account for the audio that still goes to the mains below the cross-over due to the gradual nature of that filter.


Similarly, you want the cross-over setting for the subwoofer to be no higher than half the highest frequency it is spec'ed to handle, because some frequencies higher than the cross-over will be sent to the subwoofer. Again, the rule of thumb is to give an octave of safety.


If the mains are set to "large" then no bass is steered from those channels to the subwoofer and the cross-over setting has no effect on audio played through the mains.


In all of the above, moving the cross-over much above or below 80Hz can cause other problems. Dropping the subwoofer crossover below, say 65Hz can cause loss of sound effects coming in on the LFE channel. Raising the subwoofer crossover above, say, 100Hz may make the subwoofer too "localized" -- i.e., you hear bass coming from it instead of the bass filling the room from all directions as it should.


Because the Anthem does such a good job of bass steering, the usual recommendation for most home theater setups is to designate all of your speakers as "small" (whether or not any of those speakers is actually capable of playing deep bass), and then work with the cross-over settings (or ARC when it ships) to get the best overall bass response. Presuming you have a decent subwoofer, it is likely that steered bass will play better through your subwoofer than through your main speakers even if they ARE full range speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13137317
> 
> 
> Filmmixer,
> 
> So, how's life without a D2?
> 
> (grin!)
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/13139237
> 
> 
> Definitely not as pretty sounding



So even with your untrained ear, you can tell the difference?

Sorry


----------



## obie_fl

I was hoping this won't turn in to a HDM discussion but what the heck my 2cents.


HD DVD was my format of choice although I own both. I fear without competition BD may very well miss the market window and become a niche product. Not necessarily a bad thing for us A/V nuts but bad for J6P and wide acceptance.


To turn things in another controversial direction how many are considering jumping to the new Denon A1HD processor? I see a few of you posting over there.


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13131441
> 
> 
> This is from 1.12s. Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> SOFTWARE UPDATE
> 
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v1.20:
> 
> 
> For operational changes, see operating manual v1.2x.
> 
> 
> 1. Setup menu 24 characters wide instead of 28 due to old character generator becoming obsolete.
> 
> 
> 2. Analog input level meter now has overload indication (pink = signal is within last 6 dB of scale, red = overload).
> 
> 
> 3. Dual video output configuration added, assignable by input.
> 
> 
> 4. Setup menus rearranged including split between source setup and mode presets.
> 
> 
> 5. MODE key shortcuts rearranged to include video-out selection.
> 
> 
> 6. Contrast adjustment bars added to SMPTE color bar test pattern.
> 
> 
> 7. Added ability to select HDMI audio-in with alternate video-in.
> 
> 
> 8. Deleted Bass Peak Level Manager - too many "bass sounds thin" calls arising from misuse, and because decent subs normally don't need external limiting.
> 
> 
> 9. Major HDMI/EDID driver changes to address capabilities of latest HD disc players and other newer sources without corruption of earlier sources, and to improve 'auto' video-out setting with DVI displays (auto relies on info from the display - if it doesn't appear that the correct output is in effect, use forced settings).
> 
> 
> 10. Added Dialog Normalization to info when Status is pressed (not displayed when 0 dB).
> 
> 
> 11. More installer changes to address a variation of XP.
> 
> 
> 12. Added gamma curve generating tools to Live Video Settings Editor to make curve creation and simple gain/offset adjustments quicker and easier.
> 
> 
> 13. Upgraded D1s now display "D2" instead of "D1-HD".
> 
> 
> 14. DVD2 and DVD3 now disabled by default (still set as pillarbox and 16:9 input crop respectively).
> 
> 
> 15. Improved lock for analog video input.
> 
> 
> 16. Improved frame lock.
> 
> 
> 17. Increased serial command buffering at power-on.
> 
> 
> 18. Improved handling of 1080p24 in to 1080p24 out without using frame lock.
> 
> 
> 
> v1.11:
> 
> 
> 1. In some instances there was a problem installing v1.10 - we apologize for any inconvenience. v1.11 has modified buffering that works with all computers that we could test with. If this does not work, please contact tech support, listing as many details as you can about your computer's hardware and operating system.
> 
> 
> 
> v1.10:
> 
> 
> As of this version, video source adjustments cannot be made if the selected source has no video input.
> 
> 
> 1. Added gamma correction (through Live Video Settings Editor).
> 
> 
> 2. Added custom output resolution and timing (through Live Video Settings Editor).
> 
> 
> 3. Added frame lock.
> 
> 
> 4. Added multiple input memory.
> 
> 
> 5. Reduced number of color space conversions. Note that because of this, if input is RGB and output is RGB, Color and Tint adjustments can no longer be made - simply set your source to YCbCr output instead of RGB if adjustment is necessary.
> 
> 
> 6. Added colon (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to character set for renaming sources.
> 
> 
> 7. Increased HDMI compatibility yet again. Known problems are very few at this time. If you are experiencing problems, ensure that all connected equipment has latest drivers installed before contacting tech support (you might need to contact your cable/sat company).
> 
> 
> If you need to contact Anthem tech support regarding connectivity from a computer's video output, please provide details including operating system, build of operating system, microprocessor, video card model, software, version of software, and settings. If your computer provides EDID status, that would greatly help as well.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------



THX Jim! Sounds like I want 1.2 for the improved 24 f/s handling and the SMPTE contrast bars. Is the best way to get it to email Anthem tech support? BTW, I guess it wouldn't hurt to mention, I have the Samsung BD-P1200 and Toshiba HD-XA2 and am looking to get 24 f/s, is it better to have the player do the frame rate conversion or the D2? I would think the D2. Any opinions are greatly appreciated. Thanks again!


Bart


----------



## metallicafreak

Asked this question before but I did not see a response - I bought my D2 over the summer which came with '1.2' software. Are the current iterations an improvement on it notwithstanding the '1.12s' designation?

FREAK!


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/13139237
> 
> 
> Definitely not as pretty sounding



It will pick up with the AVP-A1HDCI.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/13139237
> 
> 
> Definitely not as pretty sounding



Now imagine with the ARC-1.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/13147352
> 
> 
> It will pick up with the AVP-A1HDCI.



You drop your D2 to finally endup with an AVP-A1HDCI


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13084355
> 
> 
> As best I can figure out, the 2 sub configuration setting merely adjusts the calibration volume level to account for the extra driver.
> 
> 
> All 4 subwoofer outputs from the Anthem (2 RCA and 2 XLR) are sending out the identical signal (except for the fixed dB difference between RCA and XLR outputs). So there's no separate volume control, or polarity control, or phase control, or crossover for them. Whatever change you make to any of those controls affects all 4 of those outputs identically. Presumably this is just as true when ARC is engaged.
> 
> --Bob



I was on the road last week for a few days but yesterday I manage to check this and you are right, there no specific control for each sub.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13148018
> 
> 
> You drop your D2 to finally endup with an AVP-A1HDCI



Sold it when we moved... couldn't sell the other house, and are having to move back in...


Let's just say that I get a pretty good deal on Denon gear.. I can't pass up this opportunity at these prices, and I am hopeful that Denon is going to knock this one out of the park....


It will be interesting to see how I like it compared to the Anthem sound.. since I am also getting the Denon amp, I know it won't be an apples to apples comparison, but I'll let y'all know in a couple of weeks.



> Quote:
> Now imagine with the ARC-1.



We'll also have to see how the new implimentation of my Audyessey works..


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13109237
> 
> 
> Do a manual pass with the Setup / Speaker Level Calibration menu in the Anthem and set the volume on sub so that the adjustment in the Anthem is reasonably close to 0dB for the sub to get the same, target, SPL reading at your listening position as you get from one of the front speakers. Then run ARC to fine tune things. You should use a Radio Shack Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter to test this as judging sub volume by ear is difficult.
> 
> 
> Alternatively, run ARC repeatedly while adjusting the subs internal volume until ARC has little level adjustment to do for the sub.
> 
> 
> I don't know these subs in particular, but with most subs, cranking their internal volume all the way up is a bad move -- it makes their internal power amp work too hard and introduces distortion. In addition, the Anthem only has limited range above and below 0dB for level adjustment, so if you have the subs volume set wrong you may not be able to get it into balance using the Anthem's adjustment (manual or via ARC).
> 
> --Bob



The other way of seeing this is to avoid confusion playing with two volume controls. My sub volume control is set at the 12 o'clock position. By doing this it is easy to spot if someone (kids or maid) played with the volume control.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13110265
> 
> 
> My dealer said he spoke to Anthem today, and they are not taking ARC-1 orders yet (he expects it will be a few months).



A few months


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13115650
> 
> 
> Mine is not getting that warm. It is what the installer told me today. But so far I have run it all day long and it's just slightly warm. So I don't think I need a fan at all.
> 
> I was surprised how much better the D2 sounds then the Lexicon MC-12. It's a warmer sound and more detailed. A good combo. Movies sound better, TV shows like 'Lost' tonight, sounded and looked much better than with my previous Lexicon.
> 
> So far I am thrilled. By the way how long would everyone say it usually takes for the D2 to break in? 100 hours? 200 hours? Most high end pieces like this have some kind of break in period. What is everyones experience?



Happy to hear that. Please pass the comment around, I believe the D2 is really undervalued by a lots folks around.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/13148170
> 
> 
> It will be interesting to see how I like it compared to the Anthem sound.. since I am also getting the Denon amp, I know it won't be an apples to apples comparison, but I'll let y'all know in a couple of weeks.



Even though you have TRAINED EARS







Comparisons

from Memory are usually not very accurate.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/13148170
> 
> 
> Sold it when we moved... couldn't sell the other house, and are having to move back in...
> 
> 
> Let's just say that I get a pretty good deal on Denon gear.. I can't pass up this opportunity at these prices, and I am hopeful that Denon is going to knock this one out of the park....
> 
> 
> It will be interesting to see how I like it compared to the Anthem sound.. since I am also getting the Denon amp, I know it won't be an apples to apples comparison, but I'll let y'all know in a couple of weeks.
> 
> 
> 
> We'll also have to see how the new implimentation of my Audyessey works..



My surprise is coming form the fact that Denon's typical sound is quite different from you get from an Anthem. Obviously the AVP-A1HDCI is a different beast I am curious how it will compare. Please keep us informed.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13140060
> 
> 
> Setting the LF/RF speakers to "small" will cause the Anthem to "steer" some of the audio that would normally go to them to the subwoofer instead. Steered bass gets mixed in with the audio that is input on the LFE channel and the result is what gets sent to the subwoofer.
> 
> 
> So if you set the main speakers to "small" then the cross-over setting controls where this happens.
> 
> 
> The cross-over is not a hard cutoff. It rolls off gently (to avoid distorting the audio near that frequency.
> 
> 
> That is, not ALL the audio immediately *BELOW* 80Hz will be steered from the LF/RF channels to the subwoofer, and some of the audio *ABOVE* 80Hz will be steered to the subwoofer instead of playing on the LF/RF speakers..
> 
> 
> Thus the rule of thumb to set the cross-over for the mains to be at least twice the lowest frequency they are spec'ed to handle. I.e., you want to allow for quality playback from the mains for an octave below the cross-over to account for the audio that still goes to the mains below the cross-over due to the gradual nature of that filter.
> 
> 
> Similarly, you want the cross-over setting for the subwoofer to be no higher than half the highest frequency it is spec'ed to handle, because some frequencies higher than the cross-over will be sent to the subwoofer. Again, the rule of thumb is to give an octave of safety.
> 
> 
> If the mains are set to "large" then no bass is steered from those channels to the subwoofer and the cross-over setting has no effect on audio played through the mains.
> 
> 
> In all of the above, moving the cross-over much above or below 80Hz can cause other problems. Dropping the subwoofer crossover below, say 65Hz can cause loss of sound effects coming in on the LFE channel. Raising the subwoofer crossover above, say, 100Hz may make the subwoofer too "localized" -- i.e., you hear bass coming from it instead of the bass filling the room from all directions as it should.
> 
> 
> Because the Anthem does such a good job of bass steering, the usual recommendation for most home theater setups is to designate all of your speakers as "small" (whether or not any of those speakers is actually capable of playing deep bass), and then work with the cross-over settings (or ARC when it ships) to get the best overall bass response. Presuming you have a decent subwoofer, it is likely that steered bass will play better through your subwoofer than through your main speakers even if they ARE full range speakers.
> 
> --Bob




Bob... can you provide a working example of this... I have the infinity prelude MTS home theater system. The mains (as well as the center and surrounds) are rated 80Hz-22kHz and two powered subs are 23Hz-80Hz. Thanks


-b


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Panasonic DMP-BD30 is something I was considering for my new D2. Eventually I wanted to get the new Pioneer Elite coming out this summer. My brother said he'd by this model from me for $225 this summer. I also know it won't decode the new codecs. Is there any other problems with this Blu-ray player before I unbox it later on? I heard something about it not outputting LFE Properly.

Can you clue me in?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/13149681
> 
> 
> Bob... can you provide a working example of this... I have the infinity prelude MTS home theater system. The mains (as well as the center and surrounds) are rated 80Hz-22kHz and two powered subs are 23Hz-80Hz. Thanks
> 
> 
> -b



Well if those specs aren't simply on the conservative side, then you've got a problem as there is no overlap.


The Rule Of Thumb would suggest a sub crossover no higher than 40Hz and a mains crossover no lower than 160Hz. Which leaves quite a gap.


It is pretty unusual for a home theater sub not to go up to at least 150Hz as LFE content rolls off around 120Hz.


Anyway, your best bet is probably to go with the idea that both your mains and subs are conservatively rated and split the difference -- setting the crossover at 80Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13149702
> 
> 
> Panasonic DMP-BD30 is something I was considering for my new D2. Eventually I wanted to get the new Pioneer Elite coming out this summer. My brother said he'd by this model from me for $225 this summer. I also know it won't decode the new codecs. Is there any other problems with this Blu-ray player before I unbox it later on? I heard something about it not outputting LFE Properly.
> 
> Can you clue me in?



Here's a FAQ thread on its LFE problem that will get you up to speed:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=983656 


--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Looks like I will be returning this Blu-ray player.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/13149681
> 
> 
> Bob... can you provide a working example of this... I have the infinity prelude MTS home theater system. The mains (as well as the center and surrounds) are rated 80Hz-22kHz and two powered subs are 23Hz-80Hz. Thanks
> 
> 
> -b



The Prelude crosses over at 80 Hz (ask me how I know), and has a 24 dB/Octave slope. Looking at it with a spectrum analyzer, there is a little bit of a dip at 80 (depending on the room). I think last time I played with mine I set the D2 to run the LFE up to 90 and the Mains down to 70 (yes this is not optimal, but with both crossovers...). At best a compromise, but you really need the ARC or a really smart guy (like Bob) running the controls.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13150184
> 
> 
> Well if those specs aren't simply on the conservative side, then you've got a problem as there is no overlap.
> 
> 
> The Rule Of Thumb would suggest a sub crossover no higher than 40Hz and a mains crossover no lower than 160Hz. Which leaves quite a gap.
> 
> 
> It is pretty unusual for a home theater sub not to go up to at least 150Hz as LFE content rolls off around 120Hz.
> 
> 
> Anyway, your best bet is probably to go with the idea that both your mains and subs are conservatively rated and split the difference -- setting the crossover at 80Hz.
> 
> --Bob



Well bob.. the powered subs are part of the speakers which can be attached or detached (i have them attached). Thus, the frequency range of the speaker in total is 22hz-22khz. You can see the specs here... http://manuals.harman.com/INF/HOM/Ow...0SUB)%20om.pdf


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/13150618
> 
> 
> The Prelude crosses over at 80 Hz (ask me how I know), and has a 24 dB/Octave slope. Looking at it with a spectrum analyzer, there is a little bit of a dip at 80 (depending on the room). I think last time I played with mine I set the D2 to run the LFE up to 90 and the Mains down to 70 (yes this is not optimal, but with both crossovers...). At best a compromise, but you really need the ARC or a really smart guy (like Bob) running the controls.



Joe... how do you know










I see that the manual states that. And yes, both the tower and the sub will produce audio lower and higher than 80hz.


Joe, do you have to mts subs like myself? I love how the prelude system sounds with the D2 btw.. how about you?


Are you using both the R.A.B.O.S. system and the parametric equalizer built into the D2 or just one or the other?


I currently my D2 set up to a cross over of 80hz. I have the prelude towers set to full range (on the speaker) and base mode of 1. You?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/13150815
> 
> 
> Well bob.. the powered subs are part of the speakers which can be attached or detached (i have them attached). Thus, the frequency range of the speaker in total is 22hz-22khz. You can see the specs here... http://manuals.harman.com/INF/HOM/Ow...0SUB)%20om.pdf



So there is a crossover in the speakers that can't be disabled and the subs can't be driven directly by the d2 if attached that way?


This is complicated. The trick is to make sure that the cross-over processing isn't being done TWICE.


i think I'll have to defer to people with more hands on experience with this speaker system.


The cool thing about ARC of course is that it should handle most of this stuff for you automatically.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13150311
> 
> 
> Looks like I will be returning this Blu-ray player.



Give it until the end of the week or into next if you can


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/13152395
> 
> 
> Give it until the end of the week or into next if you can



Do you think there will possibly be a fix sometime soon. That's a pretty big problem Panasonic has. With the LFE down -5 db. Why haven't they(Panasonic) fixed that with a firmware update? Do many D2 owners have this Blu-ray player? If so, how have you worked around it?


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13148243
> 
> 
> Happy to hear that. Please pass the comment around, I believe the D2 is really undervalued by a lots folks around.



The D2 is very undervalued. Lexicon has been around longer, and costs a lot more so people are swayed by that. I can remember when I was into wine, how many didn't think a great bottle of wine could not cost anything less than $50.)I believe years ago when Caymus Special Selection raised their prices to over a $100( a large increase at the time) they actually sold more of it, but it wasn't any better, just marketed better! If it was expensive it had to be better. Of course this is not always true. Some wines are just over priced but they survive on snob appeal. I think Lexicon makes a fine reliable product with many features but is a bit over valued. I have owned 2 Lexicons and have been reasonably happy with both of them. But I do think they are over priced. Just my opinion. I'm not trying to slam the product. It does many things well.

I do think the word is getting out to the public that Anthem makes a very good product. I hope I didn't step on any toes with my opinions.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13152491
> 
> 
> Do you think there will possibly be a fix sometime soon. That's a pretty big problem Panasonic has. With the LFE down -5 db. Why haven't they(Panasonic) fixed that with a firmware update? Do many D2 owners have this Blu-ray player? If so, how have you worked around it?



Panasonic is certainly working on the issue.


If you already own the player, it doesn't hurt to wait a bit.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13152835
> 
> 
> Panasonic is certainly working on the issue.
> 
> 
> If you already own the player, it doesn't hurt to wait a bit.
> 
> --Bob



I haven't opened the box yet so maybe I should just wait a month or so for the Panny 50 model coming out soon. But I was pumped to play it.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13152835
> 
> 
> Panasonic is certainly working on the issue.
> 
> 
> If you already own the player, it doesn't hurt to wait a bit.
> 
> --Bob



This Panny BD30 Blu-ray player will play Dolby Digital and DTS without any LFE problems is that correct? Or am I mistaken?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13153257
> 
> 
> This Panny BD30 Blu-ray player will play Dolby Digital and DTS without any LFE problems is that correct? Or am I mistaken?



If it is coming out of the HDMI port as PCM, it has the issue, including decoded DD and DTS.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/13150927
> 
> 
> Joe... how do you know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see that the manual states that. And yes, both the tower and the sub will produce audio lower and higher than 80hz.
> 
> 
> Joe, do you have to mts subs like myself? I love how the prelude system sounds with the D2 btw.. how about you?
> 
> 
> Are you using both the R.A.B.O.S. system and the parametric equalizer built into the D2 or just one or the other?
> 
> 
> I currently my D2 set up to a cross over of 80hz. I have the prelude towers set to full range (on the speaker) and base mode of 1. You?



Yes I do have the MTS subs, and it does sound nice, but there are problems (I'll get to that in a second). I do use both the RABOS and the D2 parametric EQ to tame my ugly room (no treatments), and can get an "OK" room response. I forget the bass mode, but it's completely seperate (D2 handles the sub work). As Bob pointed out, due to the mostly non-defeatable crossovers, I overlapped the crossovers (a very bad thing normally) to account for some of it and remove the resulting dip (from having two filters). The problem I have with mine are the surrounds (FL is hard on speakers). I had to replace one bass unit, and "massage" the midranges (I was getting some ringing due to the surrounds and massaging them gets rid of that - for a while). Hey - don't laugh out there (I can hear you







), it actually works


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13152834
> 
> 
> The D2 is very undervalued. Lexicon has been around longer, and costs a lot more so people are swayed by that. I can remember when I was into wine, how many didn't think a great bottle of wine could not cost anything less than $50.)I believe years ago when Caymus Special Selection raised their prices to over a $100( a large increase at the time) they actually sold more of it, but it wasn't any better, just marketed better! If it was expensive it had to be better. Of course this is not always true. Some wines are just over priced but they survive on snob appeal. I think Lexicon makes a fine reliable product with many features but is a bit over valued. I have owned 2 Lexicons and have been reasonably happy with both of them. But I do think they are over priced. Just my opinion. I'm not trying to slam the product. It does many things well.
> 
> I do think the word is getting out to the public that Anthem makes a very good product. I hope I didn't step on any toes with my opinions.



I like that analogy. I have a mid small cellar in by basement that contain around 200 btls that goes from 20 to 150$ per bottles. One of my biggest pleasures is to find a little wine that is under evaluated. But for this you have to take the time and the risk to taste them.


This is what I don't like about most lexicon owner they don't even try what other (not just anthem) has to offer.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/13132756
> 
> 
> Off topic hijak too, but I heard from multiple insiders this week that one of the two remaining studios has also been speaking of it's intentions of switching imminently... like within two months..



Looks like I was two months off... thanks Hank


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well with announcements from Toshiba and Universal today, I think we can declare VF day is here! Now we can focus on getting that "perfect" Blu-Ray player to feed our Anthems! Come on Pioneer, Denon, Panasonic, etc. etc...

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/13159421
> 
> 
> Looks like I was two months off... thanks Hank



The handwriting was pretty clear it was not going to take 2 months


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/13154722
> 
> 
> Yes I do have the MTS subs, and it does sound nice, but there are problems (I'll get to that in a second). I do use both the RABOS and the D2 parametric EQ to tame my ugly room (no treatments), and can get an "OK" room response. I forget the bass mode, but it's completely seperate (D2 handles the sub work). As Bob pointed out, due to the mostly non-defeatable crossovers, I overlapped the crossovers (a very bad thing normally) to account for some of it and remove the resulting dip (from having two filters). The problem I have with mine are the surrounds (FL is hard on speakers). I had to replace one bass unit, and "massage" the midranges (I was getting some ringing due to the surrounds and massaging them gets rid of that - for a while). Hey - don't laugh out there (I can hear you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), it actually works



joe.. if our mains have built in Cross over at 80hz.. then whey wouldnt we just set the anthem crossover to "bypass or off" for the mains...so that the full frequency spectrum will be sent to the main speakers which will then be internally crossed over by the speakers -sending anything below 80hz to the subs. That way the crossover is is not being handles twice. Then turn on the "ByPass LFE Crossover" setting to ensure that the entire LFE signal will be sent to the subs. The other channels... center and surrrounds etc. can then be managed normally.


thoughts?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13160165
> 
> 
> The handwriting was pretty clear it was not going to take 2 months



The real question is how long it will take to actually get a title from Universal and Paramount on Blu?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13160165
> 
> 
> The handwriting was pretty clear it was not going to take 2 months



I knew it was just about over when Warner Brothers which to Blu-ray exclusively which was around two months ago I think.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/13153343
> 
> 
> If it is coming out of the HDMI port as PCM, it has the issue, including decoded DD and DTS.


*If I set the Panasonic to output bitsteam I won't have the LFE problem correct? Connecting this into a D2 of course.*


BD's without a hi-res audio track (i.e. TRUE-HD, DTS-MA or LPCM): make sure BD30 is set to bitstream, select either DD or DTS from the movie menu and then enjoy standard DD or DTS (i.e. not hi-res) sound without an LFE issue.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13162394
> 
> 
> The real question is how long it will take to actually get a title from Universal and Paramount on Blu?



The President of Universal was quoted as saying they

could do it rather quickly. I would be surprised if it takes

them a month to get in the BD Manufacturing Queue

and then they are off and running.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/13161718
> 
> 
> joe.. if our mains have built in Cross over at 80hz.. then whey wouldnt we just set the anthem crossover to "bypass or off" for the mains...so that the full frequency spectrum will be sent to the main speakers which will then be internally crossed over by the speakers -sending anything below 80hz to the subs. That way the crossover is is not being handles twice. Then turn on the "ByPass LFE Crossover" setting to ensure that the entire LFE signal will be sent to the subs. The other channels... center and surrrounds etc. can then be managed normally.
> 
> 
> thoughts?



I will have to dig out the Spectrum Analyzer this weekend and try it. However, the method I menctioned currently is fairly flat through the crossover region.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13162394
> 
> 
> The real question is how long it will take to actually get a title from Universal and Paramount on Blu?



I am sure they are working on that turn around since Warner's announcement. Something in April would be good.


The worst studio right now is Paramount they look a bit ridiculous with their previous announcement of HD DVD being the format of choice









Their lack of answer is probably link to the difficulty to announce another turn around in almost the same quarter. Meanwhile, they are obviously the studio that could quickly start producing Blu-Ray title


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Engaget cites an Oppo development VP saying that Oppo is in the "early stages" of producing its first Blu-Ray player. Whatever you think of the Oppo products (I happen to think they are great), this is good news at it means Blu-Ray is approaching a glimmer of a possibility of a chance that its becoming a commodity technology is something just over the horizon. That's when we'll finally be able to pick and choose players based on price/performance/convenience features as opposed to who has just fired their latest bolt closest to a still moving target.


Oh happy day!


(If Anthem doesn't ship ARC soon I think I'm going to have to resort to posting comments on how much I hate going to real movie theaters these days...grin!)

--Bob


----------



## seismo

(If Anthem doesn't ship ARC soon I think I'm going to have to resort to posting comments on how much I hate going to real movie theaters these days...grin!)

--Bob[/quote]


I spoke to Nick at Anthem yesterday, he made no promises but hopes to start shipping the ARC-1 upgrade kit in 2 weeks....lets hope everything goes well for the next 2 weeks.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13168714
> 
> 
> Engaget cites an Oppo development VP saying that Oppo is in the "early stages" of producing its first Blu-Ray player. Whatever you think of the Oppo products (I happen to think they are great), this is good news at it means Blu-Ray is approaching a glimmer of a possibility of a chance that its becoming a commodity technology is something just over the horizon. That's when we'll finally be able to pick and choose players based on price/performance/convenience features as opposed to who has just fired their latest bolt closest to a still moving target.
> 
> 
> Oh happy day!
> 
> 
> (If Anthem doesn't ship ARC soon I think I'm going to have to resort to posting comments on how much I hate going to real movie theaters these days...grin!)
> 
> --Bob



This is a good news. I know a lot of peoples who would by such a player. On top of that, if it comes with SACD and DVD-A support, this is even better and this will force pioneer and Denon to follow on the SACD and DVD-A support.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13169123
> 
> 
> This is a good news. I know a lot of peoples who would by such a player. On top of that, if it comes with SACD and DVD-A support, this is even better and this will force pioneer and Denon to follow on the SACD and DVD-A support.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13168714
> 
> 
> Engaget cites an Oppo development VP saying that Oppo is in the "early stages" of producing its first Blu-Ray player. Whatever you think of the Oppo products (I happen to think they are great), this is good news at it means Blu-Ray is approaching a glimmer of a possibility of a chance that its becoming a commodity technology is something just over the horizon. That's when we'll finally be able to pick and choose players based on price/performance/convenience features as opposed to who has just fired their latest bolt closest to a still moving target.
> 
> 
> Oh happy day!
> 
> 
> (If Anthem doesn't ship ARC soon I think I'm going to have to resort to posting comments on how much I hate going to real movie theaters these days...grin!)
> 
> --Bob



Yes very good news. Hopefully it will have onboard audio processing. SACD and DVD-A would be doubtful I'd think.

I'd look for it by this Christmas.

Funny you should mention going to the movies.

Went to No Country For Old Men last weekend.

There were 4 of us and about 10 people total in the theater when 2 more people walked in and you guessed it, sat right in front us.









We got up and moved back a couple of rows for a clear field of view.

Good movie. Hated the ending.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13169530
> 
> 
> Yes very good news. Hopefully it will have onboard audio processing. SACD and DVD-A would be doubtful I'd think.
> 
> I'd look for it by this Christmas.
> 
> Funny you should mention going to the movies.
> 
> Went to No Country For Old Men last weekend.
> 
> There were 4 of us and about 10 people total in the theater when 2 more people walked in and you guessed it, sat right in front us.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got up and moved back a couple of rows for a clear field of view.
> 
> Good movie. Hated the ending.



This week end I want to watch Spiderwick Chronicles one of the best theater in my area and at the end of the movies my kids (8 and 10) look at me and they both said Dad the image quality was really not good.....


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13169530
> 
> 
> Yes very good news. Hopefully it will have onboard audio processing. SACD and DVD-A would be doubtful I'd think.
> 
> I'd look for it by this Christmas.
> 
> Funny you should mention going to the movies.
> 
> Went to No Country For Old Men last weekend.
> 
> There were 4 of us and about 10 people total in the theater when 2 more people walked in and you guessed it, sat right in front us.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got up and moved back a couple of rows for a clear field of view.
> 
> Good movie. Hated the ending.



We need to push more with some manufacturer such as Pioneer we are at fourth generation (with the 05FD) and there is still no SACD/DVD-A support.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13168714
> 
> 
> (If Anthem doesn't ship ARC soon I think I'm going to have to resort to posting comments on how much I hate going to real movie theaters these days...grin!)
> 
> --Bob



Has Anthem made is possiable for us to be able to order the ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My local Anthem Statement dealer got a price quote ($499) from Anthem and his rep a week or so back and managed to queue up my order somehow. It may be something he worked between his store and the rep.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13168714
> 
> 
> Engaget cites an Oppo development VP saying that Oppo is in the "early stages" of producing its first Blu-Ray player. Whatever you think of the Oppo products (I happen to think they are great), this is good news at it means Blu-Ray is approaching a glimmer of a possibility of a chance that its becoming a commodity technology is something just over the horizon. That's when we'll finally be able to pick and choose players based on price/performance/convenience features as opposed to who has just fired their latest bolt closest to a still moving target.
> 
> 
> Oh happy day!
> 
> 
> (If Anthem doesn't ship ARC soon I think I'm going to have to resort to posting comments on how much I hate going to real movie theaters these days...grin!)
> 
> --Bob



Oppo is one company that could likely do it right and respond to issues quickly. I would buy a BD player from them in a heartbeat.


It seems with a moving target such as a BD player that initial engineering is only half the story - it requires responsive support. Something that Panasonic hasn't been too good at (with their LFE issue).


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13171350
> 
> 
> My local Anthem Statement dealer got a price quote ($499) from Anthem and his rep a week or so back and managed to queue up my order somehow. It may be something he worked between his store and the rep.
> 
> --Bob



Same here, but I'm not going to hold my breath. I think that they have plenty of microphones and software discs, but they may be finalizing the firmware for us current owners.


----------



## The Bogg

I hope that the ARC comes out soon because each time there is news the price seems to go up by a 100 bucks!


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Since we get asked often, here are the correct settings for the Oppo 970 and 980 when connected to our pre/pros (the same generally applies to all players). Starting with defaults and with tray open or no disc:


- change Down-mix to 5.1*

- change Center and Rear speakers to Large

- change Subwoofer to On

- (970 only) change Channel Delay to 0 for the surrounds

- change HDMI Audio to Auto

- if you watch both NTSC and PAL discs, set TV Type to Auto


*setting the 980 to 7.1, tempting as it may be, restricts sampling rate to 48 kHz, and DVD-A contains six channels at 96 kHz (or rarely 88.2 kHz, which is normal for SACD)


Outside of the menu, press HDMI to set 480i/576i before watching DVD and 720p or higher before playing DVD-A. HDMI audio on all DVD-A players is restricted to 48 kHz when video is SD.


No calibration is needed in the pre/pro's video processing menu - brightness etc can be left at 50 although if you have a test disc you can verify.


If there are further questions, sfitech at sonicfrontiers dot com - there is too much here for me to monitor. If that doesn't work due to spam filtering, please use the form under tech support on anthemav dot com. If there's something here that you want me to see, send a link to the post, *not* the thread. Thanks


----------



## ely123

Hello, I have read that there was an issue with passing 1080P through the

the AVM40 and AVM50. Does anyone know if this is still an issue or if this

has been fixed with past updates....Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The current software for the AVM-50 and the D2 has no problems that I know of in handling HDMI 1080p/60 input to HDMI 1080p/60 output or HDMI 1080p/24 input to HDMI 1080p/24 output. It is not a "pass through" (i.e., not simply some form of switched HDMI video). The HDMI input video is processed to extract audio and etc., and the output signal is generated after that. But I know of no issues with that -- certainly no image quality issues.


However, 480i/60 input to 1080p/24 output, or 1080i/60 input to 1080p/24 output for film based sources (e.g., standard DVD movies or movies on HDTV) is not currently working in the AVM-50 and D2. Use 1080p/60 output instead, just as you would have to do anyway for video based sources.


I'm not familiar enough with the AVM-40 to answer your question for that unit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13152491
> 
> 
> Do you think there will possibly be a fix sometime soon. That's a pretty big problem Panasonic has. With the LFE down -5 db. Why haven't they(Panasonic) fixed that with a firmware update? Do many D2 owners have this Blu-ray player? If so, how have you worked around it?



There's a thread in the Blu-Ray Player forum that says Panasonic now has a fix for this problem with their BD30 player, and that the firmware is expected to come out on 2/25. Presumably they are still testing it, so that date may not be solid.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

I've been reading through the posts to see if I can find any information on why the D2 and my new Tivo Series 3 unit have a major problem syncing when the Tivo is set to native output. I am using the HDMI input and firmware v1.21b. Also, I noticed that others are using version 1.29xx. The anthem site has only version 1.11. Do I need to contact Anthem for the new firmware?


----------



## dmorse4765

Try connecting audio with either optical or coax, problem will probably dissapear


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13195359
> 
> 
> I've been reading through the posts to see if I can find any information on why the D2 and my new Tivo Series 3 unit have a major problem syncing when the Tivo is set to native output. I am using the HDMI input and firmware v1.21b. Also, I noticed that others are using version 1.29xx. The anthem site has only version 1.11. Do I need to contact Anthem for the new firmware?



Yes. Contact Anthem tech support for one of the test versions in the 1.29 range (the versions leading up to the 1.3 release). Let them know the specific problem you are trying to resolve.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13191903
> 
> 
> There's a thread in the Blu-Ray Player forum that says Panasonic now has a fix for this problem with their BD30 player, and that the firmware is expected to come out on 2/25. Presumably they are still testing it, so that date may not be solid.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I was about to return it. I actually have not even opened it yet. The BD50 is probably a better to get if it comes out pretty soon.


----------



## ditcin

Hi all.

I have a D2 for a few months now and just recently I found that there isn't any sound coming from the center channel during mono or prologic (2.0) films. Sound is only coming from the front left and right.

I'm only have my OPPO connected via HDMI.

Any ideas?

Thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13195359
> 
> 
> I've been reading through the posts to see if I can find any information on why the D2 and my new Tivo Series 3 unit have a major problem syncing when the Tivo is set to native output. I am using the HDMI input and firmware v1.21b. Also, I noticed that others are using version 1.29xx. The anthem site has only version 1.11. Do I need to contact Anthem for the new firmware?



Why beat yourself up










You'll find TiVo works best via Component and

FIXED output resolution. You can't see any difference.


At least that is how us TiVo and D2 Owners connect it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/13198025
> 
> 
> Hi all.
> 
> I have a D2 for a few months now and just recently I found that there isn't any sound coming from the center channel during mono or prologic (2.0) films. Sound is only coming from the front left and right.
> 
> I'm only have my OPPO connected via HDMI.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks.



This could be perfectly normal. Many Mono films are actually put on the DVD as stereo with the same audio being sent to the LF and RF speaker channels. I.e., there's no sound coming in on the Center speaker channel. And the audio steering of voice frequencies to the Center channel in the Anthem may be minimal depending on the audio mode you have selected (and any adjustments you have made to its default settings) and the actual program content.


To get the Anthem to mix the LF and RF inputs (when listening to 2-channel source content) and produce a single speaker output to the Center speaker channel you need to select the Mono audio mode (or Mono Academy if listening to an old Mono movie that needs the extra high frequency filtering applied). This is a matter of taste of course. If you are getting sound you like using the LF and RF speakers then you can leave it that way too.


If you have still believe you are missing something on the Center speaker, then the next thing to do is to double check that you haven't actually set any of the "temporary" audio level adjustments with your remote. These are remembered on a per-source and per-audio-input-style basis, so it is easy to think you have cleared a setting you have played with when in fact you cleared it for a different source or audio input style.


To clear ALL of the "temporary" settings at once, do this:


* Go to Setup / Save & Restore Settings


* Save User Settings


* Restore Factory Settings (you may lose video at this point but you can continue using the Front Panel display)


* Restore User Settings (video should be back now)


The "temporary" audio level settings aren't saved so this clears them all back to their default state.


Please also note that the audio modes available at any given moment depend not only on the style of the incoming audio, but also whether or not you have THX post processing turned on. Mono and Mono Academy modes are not available with THX post processing. If you don't see Mono or Mono Academy as available options when you cycle through the audio modes, then press the THX button and use the up or down arrow to toggle THX post processing off.

--Bob


----------



## ditcin

Thanks for responding.


I don't even get a center channel when set to Dolby Pro-logic. I've also tried the MONO and MONO Academy setting as well.


The weird thing is that when I go to the menu screen to calibrate each channel's volume level there's a MUSIC and MOVIE SUB setting. When I highlight the music setting the center channel comes on! Yet in that mode I don't have a center channel (or rears chosen - only front L&R)


Also, I never use any THX settings.


My center channel was working fine for few months I had the unit - I just don't get it.?!?!


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/13183535
> 
> 
> Since we get asked often, here are the correct settings for the Oppo 970 and 980 when connected to our pre/pros (the same generally applies to all players). Starting with defaults and with tray open or no disc:
> 
> 
> - change Down-mix to 5.1*
> 
> - change Center and Rear speakers to Large
> 
> - change Subwoofer to On
> 
> - (970 only) change Channel Delay to 0 for the surrounds
> 
> - change HDMI Audio to Auto
> 
> - if you watch both NTSC and PAL discs, set TV Type to Auto
> 
> 
> *setting the 980 to 7.1, tempting as it may be, restricts sampling rate to 48 kHz, and DVD-A contains six channels at 96 kHz (or rarely 88.2 kHz, which is normal for SACD)
> 
> 
> Outside of the menu, press HDMI to set 480i/576i before watching DVD and 720p or higher before playing DVD-A. HDMI audio on all DVD-A players is restricted to 48 kHz when video is SD.
> 
> 
> No calibration is needed in the pre/pro's video processing menu - brightness etc can be left at 50 although if you have a test disc you can verify.
> 
> 
> If there are further questions, sfitech at sonicfrontiers dot com - there is too much here for me to monitor. If that doesn't work due to spam filtering, please use the form under tech support on anthemav dot com. If there's something here that you want me to see, send a link to the post, *not* the thread. Thanks



Thanks Nick. Could this be put in the first post as a reference?


Has anyone noticed this problems with 480i via HDMI on a 970?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post12330946 


And does anyone have a link for Levesque's PS3 review somewhere in this thread? I've searched and can't find it.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> However, 480i/60 input to 1080p/24 output ... is not working...



It's not? I use it and I don't see anything wrong and my glasses aren't that old.







I'll have to go double check in case I use a different output setting for the Oppo. However, after I got my PRO-150FD, I tried 1080p24 output from the D2 from 480i and I thought it worked ok.


larry


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/13199057
> 
> 
> Thanks Nick. Could this be put in the first post as a reference?
> 
> 
> Has anyone noticed this problems with 480i via HDMI on a 970?
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post12330946
> 
> 
> And does anyone have a link for Levesque's PS3 review somewhere in this thread? I've searched and can't find it.



Interesting. I've never heard of sending 1440x480 instead of double clocking 480i. I can't say I've noticed a issue, although, every now and then I notice a stutter, but that can be from many different reasons. I wonder if the 980 does the "correct" thing.


larry


I just now double checked and with 480i from my Oppo 970 to the D2 and 1080p24 from the D2 to PRO-150FD things look ok. I wonder if the issue stated above has anything to do with it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/13198790
> 
> 
> Thanks for responding.
> 
> 
> I don't even get a center channel when set to Dolby Pro-logic. I've also tried the MONO and MONO Academy setting as well.
> 
> 
> The weird thing is that when I go to the menu screen to calibrate each channel's volume level there's a MUSIC and MOVIE SUB setting. When I highlight the music setting the center channel comes on! Yet in that mode I don't have a center channel (or rears chosen - only front L&R)
> 
> 
> Also, I never use any THX settings.
> 
> 
> My center channel was working fine for few months I had the unit - I just don't get it.?!?!



OK, you may have to work this with Anthem Tech Support.


I can't recall any similar problems reported in this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/13199166
> 
> 
> It's not? I use it and I don't see anything wrong and my glasses aren't that old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have to go double check in case I use a different output setting for the Oppo. However, after I got my PRO-150FD, I tried 1080p24 output from the D2 from 480i and I thought it worked ok.
> 
> 
> larry



It's not SUPPOSED to be working! If it is working for you that is interesting news!


Anthem has been working on 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion (of course only for film-based source content) off and on for some time. They made some improvements in it with the V1.12 software but acknowledged even then that it wasn't right, and that was confirmed here -- loss of lock with the cadence leading to stuttering in the movie playback. For some folks it worked kind of OK with 1080i/60 input but nobody reported it working well at all with 480i/60 input.


Anthem has promised to get back to finishing this after ARC ships.


So if 480i/60 to 1080p/24 is working fine for you for film-based content (no stuttering) we should try to figure out how that's happening -- which Anthem software and which combo of source and display devices.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/13199057
> 
> 
> Has anyone noticed this problems with 480i via HDMI on a 970?
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post12330946
> 
> 
> And does anyone have a link for Levesque's PS3 review somewhere in this thread? I've searched and can't find it.



We've had no reports of loss of resolution with the Oppo 970 here that I'm aware of.


There is a bug in the V1.11x series Anthem software where COMPONENT input could get seen as 1440x480i (or something close to that) which resulted in significant loss of image quality. That was fixed around V1.11g as I recall. But that would have been an Anthem problem.


It is possible that even if the Oppo 970 is doing this, that the Anthem is picking the right pixels to get the imaging correct anyway. There are so many 970s in use with the Anthems right now, that I'd be surprised if a problem exists here and it hasn't been spotted yet.

--Bob


----------



## aus

I haven't had any problems with the 970 with my AMV50, but stumbled across that issue when I was asking about the HDMI/Component outputs both being active at the same time with the 970 (both are), because I can't seem to get video out to my Zone 2.


I thought I would post it since I haven't seen this brought up here and I know the 970 is a popular DVD player with these Anthem units.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/13200448
> 
> 
> I haven't had any problems with the 970 with my AMV50, but stumbled across that issue when I was asking about the HDMI/Component outputs both being active at the same time with the 970 (both are), because I can't seem to get video out to my Zone 2.
> 
> 
> I thought I would post it since I haven't seen this brought up here and I know the 970 is a popular DVD player with these Anthem units.



Which software are you running? There was a series of several test releases (early V1.12 and V1.21) that broke Zone 2 Component output. That's fixed in the most current Anthem test software (one of the V1.29x releases).


But do understand that if you are viewing copy protected HDMI input video (which includes most commercial DVDs) then the main and "processed" Zone 2 Component outputs get shut off due to the copy protection protocol. So you have to set Zone 2 to use the UNprocessed Component video input stream in that case -- either selected as a separate Component input source or as an UNprocessed stream from the Component video of the Main path's selected video source.

--Bob


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13199658
> 
> 
> It's not SUPPOSED to be working! If it is working for you that is interesting news!
> 
> 
> Anthem has been working on 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion (of course only for film-based source content) off and on for some time. They made some improvements in it with the V1.12 software but acknowledged even then that it wasn't right, and that was confirmed here -- loss of lock with the cadence leading to stuttering in the movie playback. For some folks it worked kind of OK with 1080i/60 input but nobody reported it working well at all with 480i/60 input.
> 
> 
> Anthem has promised to get back to finishing this after ARC ships.
> 
> 
> So if 480i/60 to 1080p/24 is working fine for you for film-based content (no stuttering) we should try to figure out how that's happening -- which Anthem software and which combo of source and display devices.
> 
> --Bob



I don't have my TivoHD connected to the D2. Although I do have a concert BD that is 1080i60 and I'll try that with my PS3 which I have set to 1080p24 output and it has a slight issue with the disc. Not overt, but noticeable. Although with some of the minute differences we can talk about noticeable is overt.










Fast forward - duh, never mind.







The 1080i60 concert isn't film based. It just occurred to me as I was putting the disc in the PS3.


larry


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13201595
> 
> 
> Which software are you running? There was a series of several test releases (early V1.12 and V1.21) that broke Zone 2 Component output. That's fixed in the most current Anthem test software (one of the V1.29x releases).
> 
> 
> But do understand that if you are viewing copy protected HDMI input video (which includes most commercial DVDs) then the main and "processed" Zone 2 Component outputs get shut off due to the copy protection protocol. So you have to set Zone 2 to use the UNprocessed Component video input stream in that case -- either selected as a separate Component input source or as an UNprocessed stream from the Component video of the Main path's selected video source.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I think I'm still on version 1.11. I never upgraded since I kept thinking there'd be an official release soon and my unit is only about a year old.


As for my Zone 2, I assigned it to CD since it's on the remote. I am now getting video, but no sound. I have the OPPO connected via HDMI (HDMI input #1) set to DVD1 _and_ component (Component #2) set to CD. My settings are:

Scaler: none

HDMI Repeater: NA

Component Vid In: #2

S-vid: none

Composite: none

Audio In: Dig Coax CD

Auto Dig: no


I do get sound from the main speakers when I'm in the Anthem's menu, under the "CD" menu.

Could I just get the sound from the HDMI (set to DVD1) from the OPPO? I was getting sound, but no video before the Component cables?


I'd appreciate any help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/13205213
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I think I'm still on version 1.11. I never upgraded since I kept thinking there'd be an official release soon and my unit is only about a year old.
> 
> 
> As for my Zone 2, I assigned it to CD since it's on the remote. I am now getting video, but no sound. I have the OPPO connected via HDMI (HDMI input #1) set to DVD1 _and_ component (Component #2) set to CD. My settings are:
> 
> Scaler: none
> 
> HDMI Repeater: NA
> 
> Component Vid In: #2
> 
> S-vid: none
> 
> Composite: none
> 
> Audio In: Dig Coax CD
> 
> Auto Dig: no
> 
> 
> I do get sound from the main speakers when I'm in the Anthem's menu, under the "CD" menu.
> 
> Could I just get the sound from the HDMI (set to DVD1) from the OPPO? I was getting sound, but no video before the Component cables?
> 
> 
> I'd appreciate any help.



OK, you don't have a software problem, just a setup problem.


You can't hear the audio because the analog audio output in Zone 2 can only see the digital audio input in your CD setting if CD is selected as the input for the Main path AND "Copy Main -> Zone 2" is turned on. See Section 2.2 of the manual for the Zone 2 Analog audio outputs, and the other sections it points you to. Alternatively, you could hook up a pair of standard stereo RCA wires between the Oppo and the analog audio inputs for CD in the Anthem. Zone 2 will see that audio even if CD is not selected as the Main path source or if Copying of audio from Main to Zone 2 is turned off.


But I think there is a simpler way for you to do this.


Try this:


If you've not already done so, set the Oppo to use HDMI for video and digital audio output, and for simultaneous video output via Component.


Go back to doing everything via the Anthem DVD input settings. Connect HDMI and Component video input from the Oppo. We'll be using the HDMI input both for video and audio input on the Main path. We'll be using the Component video input for UNprocessed video for the Zone 2 output, and we'll be copying digital HDMI audio input from the Main path to the analog Zone 2 outputs.


Use the Anthem's HDMI output for your Main display, and the Main/Zone 2 Component output (not the Main Component output above it) for the Zone 2 display. Use the normal Anthem audio outputs to your Main amplifier, and use the sterero Zone 2 audio outputs to your Zone 2 amplifier.


Go to Setup / Source Setup. At the bottom of the list of possible input sources, set COPY MAIN -> ZONE 2 to "Always". This will allow a digital audio input currently selected for the Main path to be down-mixed to stereo and converted to analog audio for output on the Zone 2 analog audio output jacks. (You can also leave this as "Manual" and then turn Copying of Main digital audio input to Zone 2 analog audio output on or off via the remote.)


Now enter the Source Setup menu for DVD and make the following settings:


SCALER INPUT: (the HDMI input jack you are using)

HDMI REPEATER: NO

COMPONENT VIDEO IN: (the Component input jack set you are using)

AUDIO IN: Dig HDMI

AUTO DIG: NO


Now go to Setup / Video Output and make the following setting:


COMPONENT 2 OUT: MAIN unprocessed


This will cause the Zone 2 Component output jacks to receive whatever is coming in on the Component input jacks of the currently selected Main path source -- UNprocessed.


Back out of the Setup / Video Output menu and "accept" the change if asked to do so. Back out of Setup entirely.


At this point you should be able to select the Oppo as your input source for the Main path using the remote. Your Main display will see processed video coming in on the HDMI input, and your Main audio will see multi-channel audio coming in on the HDMI input.


Having done so, your Zone 2 path will automatically ALSO see UNprocessed video coming in on the Component input from the Oppo and your Zone 2 path will hear the down-mixed to stereo version of the HDMI audio input on your Zone 2 stereo audio outputs.


You do not have to separately select a Zone 2 source device. Zone 2 will automatically track whatever you have selected for the Main input source. Setting HDMI Repeater = NO above will make this work even if your Main HDMI display happens to be turned off.


------------------------------------------------


Now, that's all fine for the Oppo, but you may have other HDMI input sources that don't give you both HDMI and Component at the same time. For such sources, you may want to use Component video input ONLY so that you don't have problems driving both your Main and Zone 2 displays.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/13202244
> 
> 
> I don't have my TivoHD connected to the D2. Although I do have a concert BD that is 1080i60 and I'll try that with my PS3 which I have set to 1080p24 output and it has a slight issue with the disc. Not overt, but noticeable. Although with some of the minute differences we can talk about noticeable is overt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward - duh, never mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 1080i60 concert isn't film based. It just occurred to me as I was putting the disc in the PS3.
> 
> 
> larry



The 480i/60 to 1080p/24 test is probably best accomplished playing a standard DVD movie (film based) at 480i/60 into the Anthem.


The 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 tet can be accomplished by watching a movie on any HDTV source set to send 1080i/60 to the Anthem, or by watching a standard DVD movie using an upscaling standard DVD player set to send 1080i/60 to the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13206564
> 
> 
> The 480i/60 to 1080p/24 test is probably best accomplished playing a standard DVD movie (film based) at 480i/60 into the Anthem.
> 
> 
> The 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 tet can be accomplished by watching a movie on any HDTV source set to send 1080i/60 to the Anthem, or by watching a standard DVD movie using an upscaling standard DVD player set to send 1080i/60 to the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



The 480i thing I've been doing all along. I'll try 1080i from my HD-DVD player.


larry


----------



## aus

Bob, do you sleep? Thanks for the very detailed help.

From what I'm reading, if I set the Zone 2 to "Copy main" then I would have to have the same audio going to both zones (Main and Zone 2).

I would like to be able to have the DirecTV on the Main zone, and the DVD on the Zone 2 (for the kids so I don't have to watch on the small TV). I get DirecTV fine on the Zone 2 now via Component to Component 1 input.


So it sounds like I just need to use the RCA out of the OPPO to the CD input? I'll give it a try when I get back from a short trip. Thanks again Bob.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/13206683
> 
> 
> The 480i thing I've been doing all along. I'll try 1080i from my HD-DVD player.
> 
> 
> larry



Well, (re)learn something new every day.







With my old display I couldn't use 1080p24 output from the D2, I left it set on 480p for SD-DVDs. I also had frame lock set so PAL DVDs would be output at 576p. However, when switching over to 1080p24 output, even though the "enter status" showed "output config 1 and 1080p/24" output, it was really doing 1080p60 output as shown by the "keypad 7" Info screen. 480i60 -> 1080p60 with frame-lock on. With frame-lock off, 480i 60 will be output as 1080p24 when 1080p24 is set as the output resolution in the config. This works sometimes and sometimes it does not. This is with a Oppo 970 and I wonder if it has something to do with the "feature" mention in the link above to Dale Adams post regarding the VP50. If I pause and restart when the video is stuttering, it will usually clear up play ok. I think I may see some "issues" here and there. I need to watch more, but for the most part it looks ok.


Using 1080i60 from the HD-DVD player works fine with 1080p24 output that I can see. I didn't notice any issues for the short time I was watching. And I did confirm with the "keypad 7" info screen that 1080p24 was being output. Frame-lock was on the first time I looked and 1080p60 was being output. About the only negative thing I can say about my new PRO-150FD is that there is no way to see the exact video resolution/timing coming in. You see 1080p whether it's 1080p60 or 1080p24. And you don't know when it's doing 60hz or 72hz output.


larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/13206988
> 
> 
> Bob, do you sleep? Thanks for the very detailed help.
> 
> From what I'm reading, if I set the Zone 2 to "Copy main" then I would have to have the same audio going to both zones (Main and Zone 2).
> 
> I would like to be able to have the DirecTV on the Main zone, and the DVD on the Zone 2 (for the kids so I don't have to watch on the small TV). I get DirecTV fine on the Zone 2 now via Component to Component 1 input.
> 
> 
> So it sounds like I just need to use the RCA out of the OPPO to the CD input? I'll give it a try when I get back from a short trip. Thanks again Bob.



Yes, that's correct.


If you want different audio on the Main and Zone 2 paths then you must use analog (stereo) audio input from the source device selected for the Zone 2 path.


Only the Main path can process digital audio input. If you Copy the currently selected Main path audio to Zone 2, then Zone 2 will get a stereo mix-down of the currently selected Main path audio (regardless of whether that Main path input is analog or digital).


With most source devices you can connect a digital audio input and a stereo analog audio input to the Anthem at the same time. So you can share the same Setup / Source Setup menu (e.g., DVD1) for separate selection as either the Main path input or the Zone 2 input. The Main path will hear whatever audio input you have specified in Setup / Source Setup / DVD1 (for example) / Audio In. If Zone 2 selects the same device and COPY MAIN -> Zone 2 is turned off, then Zone 2 will automatically hear the audio coming in on the stereo analog audio jack pair with the same name as that input (e.g., DVD1, DVD2, etc., will share the "DVD" stereo audio input jacks for example).


If you sometimes want to hear digital audio input (mixed down to stereo) on Zone 2, then you need to select that digital audio input for the Main path and manually turn on COPY MAIN -> Zone 2 with the remote.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/13207280
> 
> 
> Well, (re)learn something new every day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With my old display I couldn't use 1080p24 output from the D2, I left it set on 480p for SD-DVDs. I also had frame lock set so PAL DVDs would be output at 576p. However, when switching over to 1080p24 output, even though the "enter status" showed "output config 1 and 1080p/24" output, it was really doing 1080p60 output as shown by the "keypad 7" Info screen. 480i60 -> 1080p60 with frame-lock on. With frame-lock off, 480i 60 will be output as 1080p24 when 1080p24 is set as the output resolution in the config. This works sometimes and sometimes it does not. This is with a Oppo 970 and I wonder if it has something to do with the "feature" mention in the link above to Dale Adams post regarding the VP50. If I pause and restart when the video is stuttering, it will usually clear up play ok. I think I may see some "issues" here and there. I need to watch more, but for the most part it looks ok.
> 
> 
> Using 1080i60 from the HD-DVD player works fine with 1080p24 output that I can see. I didn't notice any issues for the short time I was watching. And I did confirm with the "keypad 7" info screen that 1080p24 was being output. Frame-lock was on the first time I looked and 1080p60 was being output. About the only negative thing I can say about my new PRO-150FD is that there is no way to see the exact video resolution/timing coming in. You see 1080p whether it's 1080p60 or 1080p24. And you don't know when it's doing 60hz or 72hz output.
> 
> 
> larry



The stuttering you are seeing with 480i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion is probably different than the issue the VP50 people are fighting. It is more likely just that the Anthem is losing track of the repeat cadence in the film-based content coming in at 480i/60. When you stop and start things, the Anthem picks up properly and should go for a while until a chapter change or bad edit, or whatever causes the Anthem to lose the cadence again. The problem is that the Anthem is not recovering in that case -- i.e., it does not detect that things are wrong and rapidly recover the cadence.


This is the same result we've had reported from others trying 480i/60 to 1080p/24 with the V1.2x software. I doubt anything has changed here with the V1.3x software.


However, Anthem DID make partial progress towards fixing this in V1.2x. And the result is that SOME people (but by no means all who have tried) are seeing decent results doing 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion -- again, only for film-based content. For video-based content you have to switch to 1080p/60 output from the Anthem since there is no good way to present video based content at /24.


I suspect the difference here is that the Anthem is detecting and recovering the cadence loss. It also may be that the folks who are seeing good results are doing it with 1080i/60 from HD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs -- which likely have fewer bad cadence glitches the Anthem would need to recover from than standard DVD discs.


The reports we've had with the V1.2x software is that even the folks who think it is working well have noticed occasional stutters of 1080i/60 to 1080p/24. This is presumably happening when the Anthem has to recover, and it is just not recovering fast enough for it to appear seamless.


But for whatever reason, some folks who tried this couldn't get 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 to work any better in V1.2x than 480i/60 to 1080p/24. And it appears that the difference was the DISPLAY they were using -- which I find surprising.


Anyway, Anthem is well aware they've got work to do here, and have been pretty upfront about the fact that they are going to get ARC shipped before they worry about fixing this, but that it will be a fairly high priority after that.


And yes, I agree it is silly of Pioneer not to tell the frame rate of input and whatever refresh it is using. The manufacturers are still getting the hang of what customers need for this /24 stuff to be user friendly. However it was my understanding that the Pioneer automatically went to /72 refresh if it was getting /24 input -- and that there was no user setting you could mistakenly set that would break that. The only user setting, I thought, was with regard to whether /30 or /60 input should be displayed at /72 (i.e., whether the Pioneer tried to do the frame rate conversion).

--Bob


----------



## work permit

My D2 freezes when I turn it on if my HTPC is turned on as well. It is unresponsive to any button push on the front panel. The front panel display shows "Anthem Statement D2". As soon as I turn off the HTPC, the Anthem proceeds to turn on and all is well. When I then turn on the PC, it continues to operate normally.


I have the HTPC's DVI attached to the HDMI2 input on the anthem. The optical audio out is hooked up to an optical audio input. The HTPC is set to 1280x720. The specific timings are set as follows:

Horizontal
Front porch: 72

Sync 80

Back Porch 216

Total 1648
Vertical
Front porch 3

Sync 5

Back Porch 22

Total 756
Both sync pulses are "-".


The HTPC DVI out is not HDCP compliant, and it is not used to play copy-right protected material. The video input to the anthem is configured as the secondary display on the HTPC (the primary display is set to a vga touchpanel).


Running 1.30 firmware on the anthem.


Has anyone suucessfully attached an HTPC to the anthem?


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *work permit* /forum/post/13209718
> 
> 
> Has anyone suucessfully attached an HTPC to the anthem?



Yes, but I had to use a Gefen DVI Detective to feed the HTPC's video card EDID info to the D2. My symptoms were different, however - I had problems if the HTPC was not selected during D2 power-up (but didn't hang the D2). I also had problems when using both video card outputs (mostly with TheaterTek, IIRC) so reverted to a single output.


Suggest you try a single output video configuration to see if the dual/secondary output is the cause of the problem, or if it's power-up sequence sensitive even with a single output.


----------



## work permit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13210518
> 
> 
> Suggest you try a single output video configuration to see if the dual/secondary output is the cause of the problem, or if it's power-up sequence sensitive even with a single output.



Thanks. I tried single output to the display. The Anthem still freezes up. Put in an order for a DVI detective, hopefully that will help.


I'm puzzled why I have these symptoms and you don't. What version of the firmware are you using? Is your video card HDCP compliant?


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *work permit* /forum/post/13221205
> 
> 
> What version of the firmware are you using?



1.12s aka 1.20



> Quote:
> Is your video card HDCP compliant?



umm, don't think so. XFX 6600GT PVT43GNDF3, 2+ yrs old


----------



## Bigmoviefan

I have an annoying problem with my D2 that has cropped up. I have it connected via HDMI to both Cable and DirecTV. Occasionally(about twice a day)it will start to have intermittent audio problems where the Audio drops out for brief second and then comes back. Sorta of an Audio hiccup that continues till you change the channel. Now if do change the channel and come right back to it the audio problem clears up. What causes this and what can I do to prevent this? It has NOT done this with a DVD. But that's connected via Component cables.

Thanks.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13198110
> 
> 
> Why beat yourself up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll find TiVo works best via Component and
> 
> FIXED output resolution. You can't see any difference.
> 
> 
> At least that is how us TiVo and D2 Owners connect it.



I have an S3 and a D2 and it works fine via HDMI and 1.21d.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13224473
> 
> 
> I have an S3 and a D2 and it works fine via HDMI and 1.21d.



I didn't say it would not work - but HDMI resync

slows channel surfing down.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13222552
> 
> 
> I have an annoying problem with my D2 that has cropped up. I have it connected via HDMI to both Cable and DirecTV. Occasionally(about twice a day)it will start to have intermittent audio problems where the Audio drops out for brief second and then comes back. Sorta of an Audio hiccup that continues till you change the channel. Now if do change the channel and come right back to it the audio problem clears up. What causes this and what can I do to prevent this? It has NOT done this with a DVD. But that's connected via Component cables.
> 
> Thanks.



If these are DVR devices, then you may be having disc problems. The devices write the incoming stream to a 30 minute or so buffer on the DVR and then play back from that disc buffer to your TV. That's why you can "back up" live TV stuff -- you are just backing up in that disc buffer.


If the disc is having trouble, you can get glitches like this. Changing channels restarts the buffer so the problem goes away for a while. If you change channels a lot you many not see the problem because the buffer never fills. Some of these devices have a pair of buffers and switch which buffer you are using when you change channels or start a recording, so that you may only have the problem with one buffer.


Now it is surprising that you'd have this on two devices at the same time, but I suppose it could happen.


Try temporarily using Component connections and optical digital audio cable from one of the devices. See if the problem happens that way as well (which would eliminate HDMI as the cause). And see if the problem only happens if you stay on one channel long enough (so that the disc buffer fills up). Your manual will probably tell you how long the disc buffer is (i.e., how far you can back up a live TV program). You may also have to force the device to use each disk buffer to see if the problem is in only one buffer.


Another thing to try is to temporarily hook the set top box directly to your TV. If the audio dropouts still happen, then you know it is the set top box and not the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13226192
> 
> 
> If these are DVR devices, then you may be having disc problems. The devices write the incoming stream to a 30 minute or so buffer on the DVR and then play back from that disc buffer to your TV. That's why you can "back up" live TV stuff -- you are just backing up in that disc buffer.
> 
> 
> If the disc is having trouble, you can get glitches like this. Changing channels restarts the buffer so the problem goes away for a while. If you change channels a lot you many not see the problem because the buffer never fills. Some of these devices have a pair of buffers and switch which buffer you are using when you change channels or start a recording, so that you may only have the problem with one buffer.
> 
> 
> Now it is surprising that you'd have this on two devices at the same time, but I suppose it could happen.
> 
> 
> Try temporarily using Component connections and optical digital audio cable from one of the devices. See if the problem happens that way as well (which would eliminate HDMI as the cause). And see if the problem only happens if you stay on one channel long enough (so that the disc buffer fills up). Your manual will probably tell you how long the disc buffer is (i.e., how far you can back up a live TV program). You may also have to force the device to use each disk buffer to see if the problem is in only one buffer.
> 
> 
> Another thing to try is to temporarily hook the set top box directly to your TV. If the audio dropouts still happen, then you know it is the set top box and not the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



It does it mainly on the DirecTV DVR. So I'm betting it is the one buffer that DirecTV uses in their DVR. (DirecTV does not use two buffers like most DVRs do).

I noticed this only happen once with the Time Warner DVR.


----------



## thestewman

Any body using the Toshiba HD-A35 with the D2 into a 1080i display ?

I would sure like your settings and ideas.


I bought a Toshiba HD-A35 at a big discount to use to view SD DVD.

The results have not been good with 4x3 SD DVDs.


I have the Toshiba connected to the D2 via HDMI and video output in the Toshiba set to "Up to 1080i to the D2. The D2 is connected to a Qualia 006 via HDMI and the D2 is set to output at 1080i X 60. The video is soft though detailed and the picture can not be scaled by the A35 or the D2.


I am thinking there may be too many devices correcting the video.

But, if I set the Toshiba to only output 480iX60 to the D2 I get a video picture about 24" square. If I set the D2 to output 480iX60 I get a scaled/zoomed picture even with the D2 set to no scaling.


Also, when outputing Dolby True HD via the A35 using optical bitstream how to you verify the D2 is passing the HD audio signal ?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/13226976
> 
> 
> Any body using the Toshiba HD-A35 with the D2 into a 1080i display ?
> 
> I would sure like your settings and ideas.
> 
> 
> I bought a Toshiba HD-A35 at a big discount to use to view SD DVD.
> 
> The results have not been good with 4x3 SD DVDs.
> 
> 
> I have the Toshiba connected to the D2 via HDMI and video output in the Toshiba set to "Up to 1080i to the D2. The D2 is connected to a Qualia 006 via HDMI and the D2 is set to output at 1080i X 60. The video is soft though detailed and the picture can not be scaled by the A35 or the D2.
> 
> 
> I am thinking there may be too many devices correcting the video.
> 
> But, if I set the Toshiba to only output 480iX60 to the D2 I get a video picture about 24" square. If I set the D2 to output 480iX60 I get a scaled/zoomed picture even with the D2 set to no scaling.
> 
> 
> Also, when outputing Dolby True HD via the A35 using optical bitstream how to you verify the D2 is passing the HD audio signal ?
> 
> 
> Thanks



First, you can't get Dolby TrueHD via an optical digital audio cable. Those cables won't carry that signal. If you try, what you will actually get is the "core" or "associated" audio track which is actually a lossy bitstream audio track at roughly the quality level of the best, traditional DTS tracks you have heard.


Use HDMI to get Dolby TrueHD to the Anthem, and set the player to decode the Dolby TrueHD to high bandwidth, multi-channel PCM.


For playing 4:3 standard definition DVDs, leave the output resolution of the Anthem set to the best resolution for your display -- i.e., the only one you should ever be using. See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread for the basics.


You should be making no changes whatsoever in the settings inside your TV itself when viewing 4:3 DVDs. Leave all the TV settings the same way you set them up when you did the Video Calibration stuff discussed in that thread just cited above.


Tell the player that it is connected to a 16:9 TV and that you want it to output 4:3 standard DVDs in the mode that causes them to fill a 16:9 screen from left to right. Although this seems like you are telling the DVD player to stretch the image, actually you are telling it to do NOTHING to the image. Standard definition DVDs use the same number of pixels across each line whether they are 4:3 or 16:9, but those pixels are interpreted as having different width (i.e., non-square pixels). Setting the player this way means the player is not using up horizontal resolution by creating black pillar-box bars and embedding the movie image in what's left in the middle.


Then go into the Video Source Adjust menu in the Anthem for that input (press and hold the "7" key). Set Crop Input = Auto Detect, and set Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box. (Never use the Scale Out = Zoom setting for normal viewing.)


The ANTHEM will now generate the necessary pillar box bars on either side of the movie to make it have the correct (original) 4:3 aspect ratio. The Anthem scaler does this at the high resolution it is using for output to the display so there is no loss of horizontal resolution. The result is a 16:9 image sent to your TV at your TV's best resolution -- just like when viewing HD stuff.


These settings should give you a clean, 4:3 shaped movie that fills your screen top to bottom and has black pillar bars on either side. If that's not what you are seeing then there is something wrong in your setup.


Ideally, you want the player to send HDMI 480i/60 over to the Anthem when playing standard DVDs so that the Anthem is doing all the video processing. But the A35 is reported to have good video processing itself, so you may also use 1080i/60 over to the Anthem for these.


You can verify the video input and output in effect at the moment by looking at the Video Source Adjust / Info panel in the Anthem while viewing that input.


A standard DVD calibration disc (Avia or Digital Video Essentials (DVE)) will hhelp you verify that you've got the geometry settings right -- i.e., so that circles look like circles and not ovals regardless of where they are positioned in the image.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13228173
> 
> 
> Ideally, you want the player to send HDMI 480i/60 over to the Anthem when playing standard DVDs so that the Anthem is doing all the video processing. But the A35 is reported to have good video processing itself, so you may also use 1080i/60 over to the Anthem for these.



As usual, Bob is just being his usual, thorough, unbiased self here but the A35 processing is no match for the Gennum.

On an OT note, I've watched several of my favorite SD DVD movies and Sin City is very impressive even in lowly SD.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13224514
> 
> 
> I didn't say it would not work - but HDMI resync
> 
> slows channel surfing down.



To me, the the pause with resyncing, even with using native output on the

S3, is very short.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13234690
> 
> 
> To me, the the pause with resyncing, even with using native output on the
> 
> S3, is very short.



That is all that counts - if you are happy - then it works.


I like less of a delay so I use Component.


There is nothing coming from any DVR that REQUIRES

the Bandwidth of HDMI. So I save my HDMI ports for

Hi-Def Movies and Lossless Audio.


----------



## Boston_Chad

I see that the settings for Panasonic 1366X768 native resolution were published a little while back in post #2475 of this thread.


Is anyone using these settings and can you comment on the stability? Are you using HDMI->DVI or straight HDMI? (My panel can accept this rate over DVI w/HDCP but not HDMI.)


I'd appreciate any insight!

Chad


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13234943
> 
> 
> That is all that counts - if you are happy - then it works.
> 
> 
> I like less of a delay so I use Component.
> 
> 
> There is nothing coming from any DVR that REQUIRES
> 
> the Bandwidth of HDMI. So I save my HDMI ports for
> 
> Hi-Def Movies and Lossless Audio.



TWC recently up-rev'd software on their Austin, TX market DVR (Scientific Atlanta 8300HDC). Since that time there seems to be more HDMI handshake issues and related anomolies. I'm leaning with the Dr. here and going with component/SPDIF (like ATV...eh Dr?).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/13236086
> 
> 
> TWC recently up-rev'd software on their Austin, TX market DVR (Scientific Atlanta 8300HDC). Since that time there seems to be more HDMI handshake issues and related anomolies. I'm leaning with the Dr. here and going with component/SPDIF (like ATV...eh Dr?).



I have 3 DVRs hooked to my D2. Originally I

did a frame by frame comparison between

PQ @ 1080i over HDMI versus Component.


On my 12ft. 1080p Screen - I could not detect

any difference in PQ. Audio quality is DD 5.1

in both cases so there is not difference there.


Since I can not see or hear any difference - I went

with the faster switching time on Component.


I'm OLD - Who Knows how much time I have left


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13236157
> 
> 
> I'm OLD - Who Knows how much time I have left



I suppose the upsides for those of us seasoned video- and audio-philes are

our continual needs to upgrade displays/projectors to compensate for reduced contrast sensitivity.......AND.......better audio systems to compensate for hearing loss.....especially that killer amp, and sub once hitting 60+

............... just what my wife wants to hear


----------



## Bigmoviefan

The Audio-Video techs are running the test tones for the ARC-1 right now for my D2 in my house. I'll let post on here, how it all turns out and what sonic differences I hear after it is complete.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13247145
> 
> 
> The Audio-Video techs are running the test tones for the ARC-1 right now for my D2 in my house. I'll let post on here, how it all turns out and what sonic differences I hear after it is complete.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13247145
> 
> 
> The Audio-Video techs are running the test tones for the ARC-1 right now for my D2 in my house. I'll let post on here, how it all turns out and what sonic differences I hear after it is complete.



Lucky You! A full report on the ARC-1 setup will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13247145
> 
> 
> The Audio-Video techs are running the test tones for the ARC-1 right now for my D2 in my house. I'll let post on here, how it all turns out and what sonic differences I hear after it is complete.



Where is that ARC-1 REPORT?????????










I just called two Anthem Dealers to see about

ordering my ARC-1.


NEITHER dealer had any info on ordering.


I know Bob's dealer at least give him a price.


Tried a 3rd dealer who called Nick.


No Price or Availablity for 3-4 weeks.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13247606
> 
> 
> Lucky You! A full report on the ARC-1 setup will be greatly appreciated.



Well the ARC was installed today. The sound quality is much much cleaner and articulate.I was able to turn the DVD's and HDTV shows up much higher with no distortion.

The LFE and subwoofer detail is much better too. I heard detail in my surrounds I had not heard before. Dialog from the center channel seemed to be easier to hear. Overall it was cleaner, more detailed and pleasant to listen to. I watched Spiderman 2 the Super Bit version. Remember Doc Oc robs the bank? The coins in the bags that were thrown By Doc Oc seemed to ring more true and were more detailed to my ear. Surrounds were a bit more noticeable and integrated after the upgrade. Well the sound seemed more seamless to me. That's what I heard.

I am extremely pleased. It will be worth the wait.

I have a new D2 which has the 1.30 software and the microphone. I hope Anthem will be able to provide everyone the upgrade very soon.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

The subwoofer seems much tighter. That is one aspect I really enjoyed about the ACR-1.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13249439
> 
> 
> Well the ARC was installed today. The sound quality is much much cleaner and articulate.I was able to turn the DVD's and HDTV shows up much higher with no distortion.
> 
> The LFE and subwoofer detail is much better too. I heard detail in my surrounds I had not heard before. Dialog from the center channel seemed to be easier to hear. Overall it was cleaner, more detailed and pleasant to listen to. I watched Spiderman 2 the Super Bit version. Remember Doc Oc robs the bank? The coins in the bags that were thrown By Doc Oc seemed to ring more true and were more detailed to my ear. Surrounds were a bit more noticeable and integrated after the upgrade. Well the sound seemed more seamless to me. That's what I heard.
> 
> I am extremely pleased. It will be worth the wait.
> 
> I have a new D2 which has the 1.30 software and the microphone. I hope Anthem will be able to provide everyone the upgrade very soon.



Thanks for that great report - I can't wait to

get an ARC-1 for my D2.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13249439
> 
> 
> Well the ARC was installed today. The sound quality is much much cleaner and articulate.I was able to turn the DVD's and HDTV shows up much higher with no distortion.
> 
> The LFE and subwoofer detail is much better too. I heard detail in my surrounds I had not heard before. Dialog from the center channel seemed to be easier to hear. Overall it was cleaner, more detailed and pleasant to listen to. I watched Spiderman 2 the Super Bit version. Remember Doc Oc robs the bank? The coins in the bags that were thrown By Doc Oc seemed to ring more true and were more detailed to my ear. Surrounds were a bit more noticeable and integrated after the upgrade. Well the sound seemed more seamless to me. That's what I heard.
> 
> I am extremely pleased. It will be worth the wait.
> 
> I have a new D2 which has the 1.30 software and the microphone. I hope Anthem will be able to provide everyone the upgrade very soon.



Can you tell us if the ARC changed some of the typical l user settings such as speaker distance, cross-overs, sound levels, or the like, etc. from those that you had set up manually.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13249439
> 
> 
> Well the ARC was installed today. The sound quality is much much cleaner and articulate.I was able to turn the DVD's and HDTV shows up much higher with no distortion.
> 
> The LFE and subwoofer detail is much better too. I heard detail in my surrounds I had not heard before. Dialog from the center channel seemed to be easier to hear. Overall it was cleaner, more detailed and pleasant to listen to. I watched Spiderman 2 the Super Bit version. Remember Doc Oc robs the bank? The coins in the bags that were thrown By Doc Oc seemed to ring more true and were more detailed to my ear. Surrounds were a bit more noticeable and integrated after the upgrade. Well the sound seemed more seamless to me. That's what I heard.
> 
> I am extremely pleased. It will be worth the wait.
> 
> I have a new D2 which has the 1.30 software and the microphone. I hope Anthem will be able to provide everyone the upgrade very soon.



Nick - I'm dying here - I need one of these - I will show up in person at the factory to take one off your hands for 2x the price - please start shipping these soon to your loyal early adopters!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13249652
> 
> 
> Nick - I'm dying here - I need one of these - I will show up in person at the factory to take one off your hands for 2x the price - please start shipping these soon to your loyal early adopters!



Nice - now if Nick ships you one at 2X - Maybe

he'll get the idea that 2X is the right price for

the rest of us


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13249652
> 
> 
> Nick - I'm dying here - I need one of these - I will show up in person at the factory to take one off your hands for 2x the price - please start shipping these soon to your loyal early adopters!




2x the price???? I don't think so.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13249554
> 
> 
> Can you tell us if the ARC changed some of the typical l user settings such as speaker distance, cross-overs, sound levels, or the like, etc. from those that you had set up manually.



Actually ARC does not set speaker distance. This MUST be done manually.



Jim


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13249125
> 
> 
> Where is that ARC-1 REPORT?????????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Price or Availablity for 3-4 weeks.



My dealer ordered at the same time I did 2 weeks ago. Upon following up today, there is no delivery update from Anthem yet.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

The Tech did say it changed the crossover points.I should of asked more question to what all it did.

I guess the adjectives I would use after the ACR was installed are seamless, clean, detailed and very enjoyable to listen to.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/13250385
> 
> 
> My dealer ordered at the same time I did 2 weeks ago. Upon following up today, there is no delivery update from Anthem yet.



My dealer called NICK Direct while I was on HOLD.


My dealer would NOT take any order because he

could not get a SOLID price from Anthem. If he

had gotten any solid PRICE - I would have ordered

in Adavance to get on the waiting list.


Maybe you can order a 2nd one for me from YOUR DEALER


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13250440
> 
> 
> The Tech did say it changed the crossover points.I should of asked more question to what all it did.
> 
> I guess the adjectives I would use after the ACR was installed are seamless, clean, detailed and very enjoyable to listen to.



Maybe some of the beta testers can jump in here and comment.


I previously sold my 18 month old D2 in October planning to jump in to a different HT/2CH preamp/processor solution with hdmi 1.3A and internal true hd and dts hd-ma decoders. I ended up with a Cary Cinema 11, but opted out of that for many reasons including the many delays in release of the Cinema 11V and new Cinema 11a.


After demoing a D2 loaner in my new condo, I am back in the game with the Anthem D2 (I will wait for future generations of hdmi 1.3A pre-pros and happily decode the HD audio codecs in the player for the great sound and video capabilities of the D2)and I expect to install the ARC-1 as soon as I find an older laptop with a serial connector.


----------



## bgrounds

After I sent in the specs of the D2 this is the response I received about how the DLIII would improve the D2. Thoughts and insight greatly appreciated - I have no experience using an outboard DAC.




If you read this description closely you'll note not much has been said about the analog side of the digital to analog converter.


In point of fact, in a DAC, the digital is quite important but the conversion to analog is THE most important piece of the sonic puzzle in my opinion.


The real secret to the DLIII's success lies in this understanding.


The DLIII has three main areas of interest with respect to the analog stage that make a clear difference:

The current to voltage converter

The passive filtering

The zero feedback JFET input output stage

Most companies including (I believe) the one we are discussing use an op amp for the IV conversion. This is typical and, IMHO, the biggest no, no you can make. I've tried every op amp worth its salt in this position and none cut it. You see, the problem is you need a zero impedance input to convert the current to a voltage. An op amp's inverting input is perfect for this because it's AC input impedance is zero. Problem is, there's a lot of open loop gain in the op amp and they just sound bad.


In the DLIII, we use what's known as a common base or emitter couple single transistor for the IV conversion. This is a circuit I invented a number of years ago and has served this company and the Audiophile community for years. It has low open loop gain, high linearity and low distortion. It has almost no sound to it at all and eliminates the bright hardness associated with nearly every other IV converter ever designed.


Next is a passive filter - again very open and sweet.


And lastly, a zero feedback JFET output stage that sounds very much like an open, sweet tube.


Bottom line - if you took our IV and output stage and conected it to their fine digital stage - many of the best characteristics you hear with our DAC would now be part of theirs as well.


It's all about the analog stage.


Hope that helps.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13254389
> 
> 
> 
> After demoing a D2 loaner in my new condo, I am back in the game with the Anthem D2 (I will wait for future generations of hdmi 1.3A pre-pros and happily decode the HD audio codecs in the player for the great sound and video capabilities of the D2)and I expect to install the ARC-1 as soon as I find an older laptop with a serial connector.



I'm NOT SURE pre/pro decoding is the BEST IDEA.


Look at *this Link* and the Document in the JPG file


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13254897
> 
> 
> I'm NOT SURE pre/pro decoding is the BEST IDEA.
> 
> 
> Look at *this Link* and the Document in the JPG file



I have seen that document, but thanks for pointing it out.


I am not sure that anybody really knows. Many manufacturers are touting the same lines. There are a few folks out there with Integra 9.8's who claim that true-hd audio sounds better decoded in the pre-pro than in the player. Perception or Reality-Who really knows for sure?


I do know that I made a mistake temporarily jumping away from the Anthem D2, but luckily I have been able to rectify my tactical error. Of course, my wife thinks I am certifiable. She is probably correct. But, then again, she (and I) thoroughly loved the sounds on the American Gangster HD-DVD last weekend, with the D2 leading the way. And, I am, once again, reminded how good the D2 is in analog-direct for 2 Channel.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13255104
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> 
> I do know that I made a mistake temporarily jumping away from the Anthem D2, but luckily I have been able to rectify my tactical error. Of course, my wife thinks I am certifiable. She is probably correct



I would have to side with your wife on this issue
























But it is good to have you back in the D2 Family


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13254897
> 
> 
> I'm NOT SURE pre/pro decoding is the BEST IDEA.
> 
> 
> Look at *this Link* and the Document in the JPG file



Ummm, hello, is this thing on??? I've been saying this for only about 8 months now. This Anthem doc has been out there for at least that long as well, I've cited it several times.


Better yet, Dolby and DTS's own websites have interesting whitepapers on the very same thing. It is clear that they fully expected decoding to happen predominantly in the players, not in the receivers, though it's all the same to them (and actually more money for them from licensing revenues!) I sincerely hope that functionality is lost by decoding in the receivers/pre-pro's - I hope people lose language selection, interactivity, proper PIP usage, etc. as those features become available more and more here on BluRay.


Maybe then the lemmings that blindly follow the hype and dis-information propagated by the HDMI.org folks and the herd of Japanese mfg's will wake up next time...or not...either way, I'll be laughing like an insane clown all the way to the bank.


-Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13254389
> 
> 
> Maybe some of the beta testers can jump in here and comment.
> 
> 
> I previously sold my 18 month old D2 in October planning to jump in to a different HT/2CH preamp/processor solution with hdmi 1.3A and internal true hd and dts hd-ma decoders. I ended up with a Cary Cinema 11, but opted out of that for many reasons including the many delays in release of the Cinema 11V and new Cinema 11a.
> 
> 
> After demoing a D2 loaner in my new condo, I am back in the game with the Anthem D2 (I will wait for future generations of hdmi 1.3A pre-pros and happily decode the HD audio codecs in the player for the great sound and video capabilities of the D2)and I expect to install the ARC-1 as soon as I find an older laptop with a serial connector.



Stan, welcome back to the fold my friend! I wondered what happened to you...I'm glad you've seen the light, errr, I mean, drank the proper koolaid 


Cary makes some nice gear for sure, but the beloved D2 can not be bested, at least not yet. Glad to see you back, loving your 2-channel analog direct, and multichannel PCM over HDMI. Funny you mention the American Gangster HD-DVD...I need to get my hands on that, I might make it the last HD-DVD I ever buy actually...sort of a sentimental goodbye with a great movie purchase! I found it highly ironic that 2 days after Toshiba pulled the plug on HD-DVD, the American Gangster commercial was on TV constantly plugging the HD-DVD version...oh well, its onward and upward for BluRay me thinks...


Again, welcome back, we need more M4ssHoles like you and I to pollute this forum properly with Red Sox fans, right?!


Cheers my man,

-Brian


----------



## gostan

Brian,


With the D2 back in the fold, I can simply sit back and enjoy!


And the Red Sox open up their spring training schedule today!


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I just got the low down on why the ARC is only shipping in new D2's. Right now the only way the can do it is to have the D2 in there hands because the serial # has to be imbedded in both the D2 and the software. They are working on a system to do this without everyone sending thier units back in.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13256766
> 
> 
> I just got the low down on why the ARC is only shipping in new D2's. Right now the only way the can do it is to have the D2 in there hands because the serial # has to be imbedded in both the D2 and the software. They are working on a system to do this without everyone sending thier units back in.



There is certainly no way I would ever send my

unit back in to add on an external device. It just

is NOT GOING TO HAPPEN.


----------



## gostan

The D2 with the ARC package comes in a somewhat larger and heavier box. It is certainly great that there is a heavy microphone stand included in order to assist in getting the ARC setup properly calibrated. I have some pictures but they are too large to upload.


There are no manuals included any longer as all are included on the cd enclosed that is now included with the entire package. Included with the Anthem Room Correction software is the Live Video Settings Editor v 1.20.


Anthem indicates that the pdf of the v. 1.3 D2 manual is in color and has links and bookmarks and can be read aloud by a voice activated computer. Not to mention, an attempt to be environmentally correct.


Here is a pdf of the ARC one page operating guide to keep long term D2 users salivating. Sorry guys and gals.

 

ARC-1 Operating Guide.pdf 276.7744140625k . file


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13257044
> 
> 
> I have some pictures but they are too large to upload.



Did you ever hear of Photoshop to make

the pictures smaller










If you can't do it - I can


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13256766
> 
> 
> I just got the low down on why the ARC is only shipping in new D2's. Right now the only way the can do it is to have the D2 in there hands because the serial # has to be imbedded in both the D2 and the software. They are working on a system to do this without everyone sending thier units back in.



I assume that they will have a system where they send the user a file to flash upgrade the D2 in order to mate the microphone serial number to the D2 serial number. Otherwise, folks will have to take their units to their dealers, which would be a major pain in the fanny.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13257463
> 
> 
> I assume that they will have a system where they send the user a file to flash upgrade the D2 in order to mate the microphone serial number to the D2 serial number. Otherwise, folks will have to take their units to their dealers, which would be a major pain in the fanny.



Mine is rack mounted and my dealer

is a 4 hour drive each way. Just not

going to happen. I would go without

the ARC-1 - which I have done for 2+

Years now.


----------



## drmabuse

never mind...


----------



## joealbracht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13257044
> 
> 
> Here is a pdf of the ARC one page operating guide to keep long term D2 users salivating. Sorry guys and gals.



Thanks for the update. I can't wait. I also have almost a 4 hour drive to my dealer so I hope they work out the serial number stuff.



Since the manual on the Anthem site is older than John McCain, any chance you might be able to post the new manual? I have the 1.2 level software and occasionally have need to search the 1.2 manual but can't cause it's not available in PDF format yet. Probably never will be available since they'll most likely jump to 1.3.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joealbracht* /forum/post/13257714
> 
> 
> Thanks for the update. I can't wait. I also have almost a 4 hour drive to my dealer so I hope they work out the serial number stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> Since the manual on the Anthem site is older than John McCain, any chance you might be able to post the new manual? I have the 1.2 level software and occasionally have need to search the 1.2 manual but can't cause it's not available in PDF format yet. Probably never will be available since they'll most likely jump to 1.3.



Another size issue. The v. 1.3 manual is too large of a pdf to post. PM me with your email address and I will send it to you.


----------



## Bob Anderson

Wife was watching cable last night and heard a large pop and audio went down quite a bit, (video comes through fine in HDMI).


She did not say anything to me till lunch time today and I immediately went and checked.


There is no amplification of the audio signal coming in from either the PVR or the DVD/CD, (both HDMI).


One can hear the TV vocals but with no amplification, it is just being past through. Turning volume on the D2 has no effect.


The D2 is at original F/W levels, (March 07).


Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You may have taken a power hit that crashed the HDMI audio processing. If you are lucky, restarting the D2 might clear that.


Turn off the D2 using the Remote, then also turn it off using it's back panel switch. Disconnect everything else in your system from wall power. Now plug that stuff back in and turn on the D2 again. Do you have good HDMI audio now?


If not, see if you can get the speaker calibration tones out of the D2 (Setup / Level Calibration). This will tell you that the output side of the D2 and the path through your Amp and your speakers are in good shape. If the output side of things is working it's time to concentrate on the input side.


Power everything down again. Disconnect your HDMI input sources. Now use a digital optical or coax audio cable from some source and see if you can get proper audio through the D2 when playing DD5.1 content. This will show that the digital audio portion of the D2 is operating correctly.


If all this is good, and if you have any other HDMI source device around, try temporarily hooking it up to the D2. See if the issue happens with that device as well (since your other 2 HDMI sources may be what broke). You may have to try each of the HDMI sockets in turn. Be careful removing and plugging in HDMI connections -- they are delicate.


All of this should help you isolate what portion of the system has failed.


There are settings that would almost complete mute the audio. For example, if the D2 thinks headphones have been plugged in. So take your time and be logical about working through this stuff. Make sure the remote control is controlling the "Main" path of the D2 for example.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Anderson

Hi Bob


First, thanks for the fast response, it is appreciated.


I have a Panamax 5400 Power conditioner in front of the D2/A5 feeding off a dedicated 20 amp service. Hopefully no spikes got through that but who knows.


Did a power reset, (both D2 and A5 from rear).


Tried the calibration tones and only sound coming out is of from front mains. Center and rears are stone quiet!


Lots of static when moving volume control when piping in cable source, (HDMI).


Cheers


Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Make a written record of your D2 settings. Don't forget the settings in the Video Source Adjust menu for each input. You'll want this anyway if you have to send the D2 to Anthem for service so you might as well do it now.


Power down and disconnect everything from the D2 except for the power cord and the speaker outputs to your amp and subwoofer. This is to eliminate the possibility that some sort of short or power surge is coming into the D2 over any of those cables.


Power up the D2 and your amp.


Now, using the Front Panel display (because you've just disconnected your TV) go to Setup / Save & Restore Settings and do:


* Save User Settings. With any luck we'll get you going again and you can restore these from here as well.


* Reload Factory Defaults.


Now go to Setup / Calibrate Levels again and see if you are getting the calibration tones on all speaker channels. The factory default settings include a full (7.1) set of speakers so you won't have to make any setting changes before doing this test.


If you can get calibration tone audio on all speaker channels using the Factory Default settings, then try a Restore User Settings and see what you get.


If, on the other hand, you still only get audio on the LF and RF speaker channels then the next thing to do is temporarily move either one of those outputs from the D2 to each of the other inputs in turn on your power amp to make sure the audio gets through the power amp to each of the other speakers. This will eliminate the power amp or the speakers as the problem. Once you've tried that, put the output cables from the D2 to the power amp back as normal.


If the power amp and speakers are good on all channels and you can still only get proper output from the LF and RF outputs of the D2 (using the D2's internally generated calibration tones) then you've likely had a failure of the D2's output stage. I don't believe there is any way for you to fix this yourself. You will need to contact Anthem technical support.


ETA: But while you are back there doing these cabling tests, double check to make sure nothing is shorted at either end of any cable. It only takes one loose hair of wire to short things.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Anderson

Hi Bob


Can't say how much I appreciate your guidance.


Unfortunately, looks like the D2's output stage is fried.


I have completed all the testing you suggested and at least the amp is working great for all channels. Setting up L-Front to manually ouput and then changing to each amp input, proved down-stream is fine.


Doing the calibration tone audio at Factory settings did not change anything. Output on L/R fronts okay but center is silent and rears just scream. Cannot change the output at all on them.


Contacted Truetone who sold me the complete rig and they were going to send someone over but I'll speak with them tomorrow and see if I can drop it off at Anthem as their here in Mississauga where I live on Monday.


At least, I can get the firmware upgraded and perhaps, they can return it with the ARC1 packaged in the box!


Cheers


Bob


----------



## Shrike645

Bob


This past summer I was able to drop my D1 off directly at the factory in Mississauga. There is a Service door on the side. I was also able to have it upgraded to a D2 at the same time so I think you should be able to get the ACR too. Rather drastic measures to have to have a broken machine just so you could get the ARC quicker


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/13258743
> 
> 
> Wife was watching cable last night and heard a large pop and audio went down quite a bit, (video comes through fine in HDMI).
> 
> 
> She did not say anything to me till lunch time today and I immediately went and checked.
> 
> 
> There is no amplification of the audio signal coming in from either the PVR or the DVD/CD, (both HDMI).
> 
> 
> One can hear the TV vocals but with no amplification, it is just being past through. Turning volume on the D2 has no effect.
> 
> 
> The D2 is at original F/W levels, (March 07).
> 
> 
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Bob




I lost the surround channels on my A5 about three weeks ago. I sent it back to Anthem about two weeks ago and have not received it back. I too have a power conditioner feeding my D2 and A5. I don't know what caused the amp to blow but I do know it happened during POCAWE. During the big scene at the end I heard crackling from the surrounds then they went silent.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13249554
> 
> 
> Can you tell us if the ARC changed some of the typical l user settings such as speaker distance, cross-overs, sound levels, or the like, etc. from those that you had set up manually.



I know it did change the sound levels and it did change crossover points. The Tech set up the Microphone in 5 different locations and each time a loud whooop, whoop whoop emitted. All the info was then downloaded into the Processor. One of the big results is you can really crank the heck out of the volume and not get rattling or room distortion. Bass information is tight as a drum. The Installer said your system is now equalized to the room.


----------



## buyrightlow

Well, I'm very disappointed in the D2 and Anthem technical support in one regard. I have a new Nvidea 8600GTS video card with 512mb(with DVI-I out), certainly a well regarded and widely used card. Tech support at Anthem has informed me that the D2 (I'm runnning v 1.21) has many problems with video cards and that the D2 is not well suited to hook up to a PC and they can do nothing about the fact that my Marantz VP15(which is really wonderful) works perfectly when hooked up directly to the PC, but when connected through the D2, crashes the PC almost every time I hook it up through the D2, albeit not every time. When I disconnect the cable from the D2 and run to the projector and it works, I have repluged it into the D2, sometimes the D2 will handle it, but eventually it crashes. I also went out and purchased the Gefen DVI Detective, to no avail. They advise there is nothing they can do to help me with this problem and I shouldn't be using the D2 as part of a media center hub that includes PC's I find this very troubling and not the kind of support that should be expected from Anthem on their high end product. If I knew then what I now know, that Anthem will not support the D2 in a media center with PC set-up, I would have purchased another product. I'm now thinking my only alternative is to run the PC directly to the 2nd hdmi input on the Marantz. Sadly, that will require more wall breaking to hide the cable and lose the ability of the D2 on the video side. I hope the D2 will support the digital audio coming out of my high end Creative Blaster audio card. :-(


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/13265345
> 
> 
> Well, I'm very disappointed in the D2 and Anthem technical support in one regard. I have a new Nvidea 8600GTS video card with 512mb(with DVI-I out), certainly a well regarded and widely used card. Tech support at Anthem has informed me that the D2 (I'm runnning v 1.21) has many problems with video cards and that the D2 is not well suited to hook up to a PC and they can do nothing about the fact that my Marantz VP15(which is really wonderful) works perfectly when hooked up directly to the PC, but when connected through the D2, crashes the PC almost every time I hook it up through the D2, albeit not every time. When I disconnect the cable from the D2 and run to the projector and it works, I have repluged it into the D2, sometimes the D2 will handle it, but eventually it crashes. I also went out and purchased the Gefen DVI Detective, to no avail. They advise there is nothing they can do to help me with this problem and I shouldn't be using the D2 as part of a media center hub that includes PC's I find this very troubling and not the kind of support that should be expected from Anthem on their high end product. If I knew then what I now know, that Anthem will not support the D2 in a media center with PC set-up, I would have purchased another product. I'm now thinking my only alternative is to run the PC directly to the 2nd hdmi input on the Marantz. Sadly, that will require more wall breaking to hide the cable and lose the ability of the D2 on the video side. I hope the D2 will support the digital audio coming out of my high end Creative Blaster audio card. :-(



We can understand your unhappiness with Anthem's

Support of PCs - but I doubt you would find any other

equivalent products to the Anthem that would play nice

with Media Center PCs. The Incompatibility problem is

wide-spread with PCs - they just don't play by the proper

Rules.


----------



## tngiloy

After getting my D2 back from Anthem a few months back for a video board problem I have been using it for audio processing only and I have connected my dvd and satellite dvr directly to my hdtv via hdmi. After reading in this thread that the newer video boards that Anthem was using ran cooler I decided to try using the Anthem for video processing again. I have been pleasantly surprised at how much cooler it runs and how many fewer blue screens I encounter and how much faster they resolve. They upgraded the software from v1.11 to v1.20 and I assume that the blue screen improvement is due to the software, but the heat issues I was having with the original green video board have been cured with the newer red one that is installed now. I am so happy that I ordered an Oppo 980h to replace my Denon 3930ci (its listed on videogon if you know anyone looking for one) since I don't need the Denon's video processing any more.

I have some ?'s about the set up between the D2 and Oppo that weren't answered by Nick's post a few pages back and was wondering if anybody out there who uses the Oppo with the D2 could help me?

Do I still need to use the 5.1 analog out of the Oppo to the 6 ch in on the D2 for dvd-a and sacd or can you output uncompressed audio from the Oppo via hdmi?

I also am not sure about the whole RGB or YPbPr thing. Is RBG for hdmi and YPbPr for component? Should I set the Oppo to 480i RBG or YPbPr, or does it matter? I am using a 1080i dlp hdtv connected to the D2 with hdmi at 1080i/60 output if that matters.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

tngilloy,

When playing standard DVDs, set the Oppo to send HDMI 480i YCbCr (which is the digital version of analog YPbPr used on Component video cabling). Audio can come over HDMI as traditional bitstreams (DD5.1 or DTS) for decoding in the Anthem.


I'm pretty sure the Oppo 980 can use HDMI for SACD and DVD-Audio playback as well. Set the Oppo to decode the SACD or DVD-Audio and send multi-channel, high bandwidth PCM to the Anthem (not just stereo, and not DSD). You will also have to raise the output video resolution of the Oppo to 720p or higher when playing SACD and DVD-Audio this way due to the way HDMI allocates audio bandwidth as a percentage of your currently selected video bandwidth. If you leave it at HDMI 480i you won't get the full set of high bandwidth audio channels.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/13265345
> 
> 
> Well, I'm very disappointed in the D2 and Anthem technical support in one regard. I have a new Nvidea 8600GTS video card with 512mb(with DVI-I out), certainly a well regarded and widely used card. Tech support at Anthem has informed me that the D2 (I'm runnning v 1.21) has many problems with video cards and that the D2 is not well suited to hook up to a PC and they can do nothing about the fact that my Marantz VP15(which is really wonderful) works perfectly when hooked up directly to the PC, but when connected through the D2, crashes the PC almost every time I hook it up through the D2, albeit not every time. When I disconnect the cable from the D2 and run to the projector and it works, I have repluged it into the D2, sometimes the D2 will handle it, but eventually it crashes. I also went out and purchased the Gefen DVI Detective, to no avail. They advise there is nothing they can do to help me with this problem and I shouldn't be using the D2 as part of a media center hub that includes PC's I find this very troubling and not the kind of support that should be expected from Anthem on their high end product. If I knew then what I now know, that Anthem will not support the D2 in a media center with PC set-up, I would have purchased another product. I'm now thinking my only alternative is to run the PC directly to the 2nd hdmi input on the Marantz. Sadly, that will require more wall breaking to hide the cable and lose the ability of the D2 on the video side. I hope the D2 will support the digital audio coming out of my high end Creative Blaster audio card. :-(



I don't have any idea what the specific issue is with your card's DVI output, but I can tell you that running a DVI or HDMI source through an AVR is more difficult for the source. The AVR's role as a repeater puts greater demands on the source programming, and the source will typically be presented with many more connection options when talking to the AVR (i.e., acceptable audio and video types) than will happen when connected directly to a typical TV.


For example, when the D2 first came out, some cable set top boxes locked up when connected to it because their programming was not prepared to be offered that many options. This was true even using the HDMI Repeater = NO option in the D2 which unburdens much of the repeater handshake processing from the source.


Typical problems with computer cards are that they like to change what they are outputting as they boot up, which further complicates the handshake -- again made more difficult due to an AVR in the middle.


I'm surprised DVI Detective isn't doing the trick for you. I don't know if anyone else here is using your card with DVI Detective, but perhaps another poster will chime in here.


One point however: You say that the symptom is that the PC crashes. It should not be possible for the D2 to crash your PC. The PC card is in charge of making the connection happen -- i.e., it is all driven by software/firmware in the PC. All the D2 does is let the PC know what options are available for the connection (when asked), accept or decline the connection (perhaps requiring a retry on the part of the PC card), and inform the PC card, when asked, if HDCP copy protection is valid through to any connected display. The rest is all audio/video data transfer which, again, is driven by the source device.


The point is, if the software and firmware for the PC card are properly written to work with an HDMI AVR in between the card and the TV, then there's not really anything the D2 COULD do which would cause a PC crash.


Which means you may be fighting two issues here: (1) The need to use DVI Detective at all due to the way the PC card boots up and tries to handshake with the D2, and (2) a graphics card software driver problem on your PC that makes it not work well when connected through an AVR to the TV -- particularly one that offers the range of connection options offered by the D2.


Getting fixes for such issues can be a pain in the neck -- even when it is patently obvious that it is source device programming that is the culprit (as with the locked up cable and satellite boxes I mentioned above.).


We have a number of people who have posted here that they've had success with HTPC setups through the D2. We might need to start making a list of which graphics cards are known to work (including version number of the card, OS version, software/firmware version for the card, software version in the Anthem, and whether DVI Detective was required).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13250141
> 
> 
> Actually ARC does not set speaker distance. This MUST be done manually.
> 
> 
> 
> Jim



The D2 V1.3x manual agrees with what you say (i.e., there's no mention that you can ignore the Setup / Listener Position menu if you are using ARC for all sources), but I'm surprised that this is true.


Adjusting the timing delay should be one of the easier things for an auto EQ system to do. You just send out two distinct pulses simultaneously from pairs of speakers and detect the arrival time difference between them. You just have to be careful to catch the first arrival to avoid measuring later repeats due to wall/ceiling/floor reflections.


I wonder why they decided to leave this up to manual settings?

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13266134
> 
> 
> tngilloy,
> 
> When playing standard DVDs, set the Oppo to send HDMI 480i YCbCr (which is the digital version of analog YPbPr used on Component video cabling). Audio can come over HDMI as traditional bitstreams (DD5.1 or DTS) for decoding in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure the Oppo 980 can use HDMI for SACD and DVD-Audio playback as well. Set the Oppo to decode the SACD or DVD-Audio and send multi-channel, high bandwidth PCM to the Anthem (not just stereo, and not DSD). You will also have to raise the output video resolution of the Oppo to 720p or higher when playing SACD and DVD-Audio this way due to the way HDMI allocates audio bandwidth as a percentage of your currently selected video bandwidth. If you leave it at HDMI 480i you won't get the full set of high bandwidth audio channels.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,

Can you refresh my memory on a couple of things? Is the D2 hdmi1.1, or 1.2 compliant?

Does the D2 accept 192K audio?

With the YCbCr setting should I use 4:4:4 or 4:2:2, or would I find that info in my TV's manual??

It looks like I can sell my 6 Speltz analog cables in addition to the Denon and can put that money toward the ARC!


----------



## bcljones

Does anyone know how to use the IR Database codes from the Anthem website for Pronto remotes in Windows XP? I've installed the IRDatabase program, but it doesn't seem to want to run under XP, even in Windows 98compatability mode. I'm having trouble with some of the Anthem codes and wanted to get their clean codes to use in my CCF file.


Buddy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13266517
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> Can you refresh my memory on a couple of things? Is the D2 hdmi1.1, or 1.2 compliant?
> 
> Does the D2 accept 192K audio?
> 
> With the YCbCr setting should I use 4:4:4 or 4:2:2, or would I find that info in my TV's manual??
> 
> It looks like I can sell my 6 Speltz analog cables in addition to the Denon and can put that money toward the ARC!



The D2 is HDMI 1.1.


Anthem has been a bit vague on this, but my understanding is that the D2 accepts up to 96KHz audio per channel. It internally upsamples that to 192KHz before doing any processing, and the DACs convert 192KHz to analog for output. I don't believe anyone has posted here that they've been able to configure higher than 96KHz input into the D2 from any source.


For an HDMI source or display device, use YCbCr 4:4:4 to start. See the posts in the Data Format section of the links collected in the first post of this thread for some insight into 4:2:2 and when/why you might want to check it out.


And of course the "Video Calibration for Non-ISF Techs" post in those links is your starting point for video setup in general.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13266292
> 
> 
> We have a number of people who have posted here that they've had success with HTPC setups through the D2. We might need to start making a list of which graphics cards are known to work (including version number of the card, OS version, software/firmware version for the card, software version in the Anthem, and whether DVI Detective was required).--Bob



XFX 6600GT with only one DVI connected

84.43 driver

XP/MCE with all updates (although I don't fire up the MCE UI anymore)

1.12s

DVI Detective


Very reliable. Even before adding the DVI Detective I did not get PC crashes, just resolution problems on bootup.


I use the HTPC for my SD DVD player (TheaterTek), either from DVDs or NAS.


----------



## Randall Morton

I've never had the D2 crash a computer. I use the Gefen device also but only to keep the connection active when changing sources. I've used all NVidia cards and XP Pro. I'm currently using an 8800GTS 512, before that 8800GTS 640, before that SLI 7800 GTs.


----------



## esander3

My HTPC has an ATI 3870 card in it and I have no problem connecting it to my AVM-50 via DVI... Thank god for SlySoft Any DVD, because my old RPTV is component only and Any DVD allows me to send upconverted video via DVI to the Anthem and have the Anthem output thru the component output....



Ed


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

I have had my d2 for more than a year working great, and just recently when I try to power(2 or 3 times in the past two weeks) down the system the d2 will not shut off unless I pull the plug out of the unit.



any thoughts? thanks, bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/13270685
> 
> 
> I have had my d2 for more than a year working great, and just recently when I try to power(2 or 3 times in the past two weeks) down the system the d2 will not shut off unless I pull the plug out of the unit.
> 
> 
> 
> any thoughts? thanks, bob



Literally pull the plug? You mean it won't even power down if you use the back panel power switch?


Try to power it down using the front panel power buttons (one for each Zone). Remember that the unit can't shut down unless all Zones are turned off. Think of the Anthem as 4 separately controllable devices all in one box (Main, Zone 2, Zone 3, Record -- where Record does not have its own power on/off). You may power off one Zone and discover the unit is not completely shut down because some other Zone is still On.


I haven't tried this myself, but if you have set COPY MAIN -> ZONE 2 for audio or Zone 2 = Main (processed or unprocessed) for Video, then you may not be able to shut off Main itself if Zone 2 happens to be in use.


If you can't power down the unit using the front panel buttons, then contact Anthem tech support.


If you find the problem is that some Zone has been turned on unexpectedly, then you may have a conflict with some other remote control (for another device) being picked up by the Anthem, or you may need to go into Setup and turn off the REAR remote control inputs in the Anthem to avoid accidental triggering of remote operations by those inputs (Section 3.11 of the Manual, read "Set IR Inputs", insure the front input is enabled -- perhaps for Main only -- and the the rear inputs are disabled). Or it may simply be that someone in your house doesn't understand how to use the Anthem remote and is accidentally turning on that Zone.


If power down via the front panel power buttons works, and it is not just a matter of a Zone being left on unexpectedly, then you may have a problem with the remote control itself. Try the 2nd remote that came with your D2. If you can isolate the problem to just one remote control, then try resetting the remote control to factory defaults (Section 5.6 in the Manual). If you are using the Anthem remote to control any other devices, you will need to reprogram the remote.


Also make sure the Remote has fresh batteries in it.


Remotes are electronic devices and some small percentage of them will fail. If that's what appears to have happened, contact Anthem tech support.


Also, check the Timer settings in the Anthem to make sure you don't have a Timer set to keep turning the Anthem on. Section 3.2 of the Manual. This is another way a Zone might have turned on unexpectedly.


Finally, clear any "temporary" settings you may have set with the remote and reestablish your normal Setup settings. This is grasping at straws, but it is possible that some setting may have gotten corrupted. To do this, go to Setup / Save & Restore Settings and:


* Save User Settings


* Restore Factory Defaults. You may lose video at this point but you can continue using the Front Panel buttons.


* Restore User Settings. Video should be back now.


The "temporary" settings are things like the temporary speaker level adjustments you can make with the remote (different from the permanent level settings in the Setup menu). These are not Saved, and will all be reset to factory defaults when you do this.


If all this doesn't lead you to a solution, you will likely need to work the problem with Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

as always thanks bob!


I will follow those steps.


----------



## buyrightlow

Perhaps it's something in the D2 settings. Please detail how you set-up the D2 for a HTPC, e.g., do you use extended rgb, something else. How about the resolution-auto?


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/13274095
> 
> 
> Perhaps it's something in the D2 settings. Please detail how you set-up the D2 for a HTPC, e.g., do you use extended rgb, something else. How about the resolution-auto?



It ain't the D2 settings that are causing your PC to crash. Look harder at the forceware driver. Try a different version here . Make sure it's a WHQL version.


----------



## rafsel

Hi all,


This may be off-topic. If it is, please let me know and I will move to appropriate forum.


I have an AVM-50 (upgraded AVM20) running 1.2.x and it works beautifully with my equipment - knock on wood. The equipment list is:

- JVC RS1 - video @ 1080p: hdmi

- Oppo 970 HD - video @ 480i: HDMI; audio: coax

- PS3 - video @ 1080p: HDMI; audio: optical

- Mac Mini (Intel) - video @ 480i: dvi-to-hdmi; audio: optical

- Bell ExpressVu 9200 - video @ ??? (can't recall): HDMI; audio: optical

This all works very well indeed. In fact, given all the posts about equipment incompatibilities I am wondering if something is wrong with my setup!










Anyway, my question is not about hooking up equipment, but rather about choice of input device for standard definition DVD. Given the choice of watching either from a ripped version on the Mac or the disk itself on the Oppo, which would produce the better image (and sound)?


I have done a comparison (not A/B yet) and I really don't see a big difference.


Any opinions/advice?


Thanks,

Martin


----------



## RIppolito

Martin,


I was watching SD-DVD's via my newly-purchased Toshiba HD-A35 - upconverted in the DVD player. As an experiment, I had the A35 output 480i via HDMI, and let the Anthem do all the image processing: it really made a difference. The clarity and color were both much improved. It makes sense, since the Gennum video processor in the AVM50 is probably much more powerful than the Anchor Bay chip in the A35.


I wouldn't be surprised if you had similar results by outputting 480i from the Oppo. Let us all know how it turns out.


Ron


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/13263989
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> This past summer I was able to drop my D1 off directly at the factory in Mississauga. There is a Service door on the side. I was also able to have it upgraded to a D2 at the same time so I think you should be able to get the ACR too. Rather drastic measures to have to have a broken machine just so you could get the ARC quicker



I am lucky enough to live ab out a 20-30 min drive from Paradigm(same location as Anthem in Mississauga?). Literally a drive from downtown to the subs.


If the only way to get this done in a reasonable amount of time would be to bring my unit there, then I will. Hopefully it could be by appointment and done while I wait or something. Would kinda suck if Anthems desire to ensure there is no "sharing" of the arc between users like a SPL meter can be is so rabid that it has a significant impact on its availability, accessability and convinience of acquisition.


I certainly understand the business drivers and they have every right to protect their investment here, but I am alowed to wish for a perfect world lol. I will gladly fork over the money, Anthem just needs to meet me half way and find a way to take it from me as quickly as possible hahaa.


Really sounds like a win win for everyone ;-)


Cheers


----------



## benleeys

Hi guys,


My D2 feeds a CRT projector with component interconnects and video output set at 720p. So I run into Macrovision copy protect on some SDVDs and the D2 telling me that output is only available at 483p.


When I encounter this, I switch the D2 to DVD2 output which I set to 576p/50. Well, it works with the D2 nicely sending 576p/50 to the projector. Now, my eyesight isn't what it used to be, so I can't really say for sure I see an improvment in the picture. But psychologically (and logically?), I tell myself there IS an improvement and am happy. Or supposed to be ... (otherwise there won't be this post







)


But can you folks tell me frankly, whether there is technically an advantage in 570p/50 over 480p/60. Or for that matter, 1080p/60 over 1080p/50 when I eventually switch to HDMI connections some day.


Your thoughts appreciated.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ben, 1080p/60 has higher bandwidth than 1080p/50 but the difference might not be enough for you to see.


However if you do the math 480p/60 and 576p/50 have essentially the same bandwidth. You are trading off increased vertical resolution vs. refresh rate. The two schemes each have their advocates (static resolution vs. smoothness of motion for example), but there's not really that much difference between them. The information reaching the eye each second is coming at essentially the same rate.


There are a few more subtle advantages, such as the fact that standard DVDs in 50 Hz markets are played at 25Hz instead of the normal 24Hz rate for film-based content -- i.e., they are sped up a bit for playback. The eye doesn't see this for the video, but the audio has to be pitch corrected when making such discs so that it sounds right. But the advantage is that the playback rate now divides evenly into the display's refresh rate, which means you have no "cadence judder", and no need to change refresh rate of the display when viewing video-based content vs. film-based content.


The problem with what you are doing is that your player is NOT sending 25Hz video to the Anthem. It is sending 480i/60 or 480p/60. That means the audio pitch is right, but that the Anthem has to compensate to reduce the /60 frame rate to /50 for output by discarding some of the frames. The Anthem is probably doing this well (we've not had much discussion of it here) but it is added processing which it is probably better to avoid lest you introduce a different type of judder in the video.


So although you may not see any issues, you'd probably be better off sticking with 480p/60 output from the Anthem into your Component video projector.

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850

This weekend I experienced the "Oppo screech". I've heard it mentioned before but haven't given it much thought as my D2 has been working flawlessly since it has been installed. Is this an Oppo or D2 issue? I tried the search feature using Oppo and D2 with too many results. TIA, Carl.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13278295
> 
> 
> Ben, 1080p/60 has higher bandwidth than 1080p/50 but the difference might not be enough for you to see.
> 
> 
> However if you do the math 480p/60 and 576p/50 have essentially the same bandwidth. You are trading off increased vertical resolution vs. refresh rate. The two schemes each have their advocates (static resolution vs. smoothness of motion for example), but there's not really that much difference between them. The information reaching the eye each second is coming at essentially the same rate.
> 
> 
> There are a few more subtle advantages, such as the fact that standard DVDs in 50 Hz markets are played at 25Hz instead of the normal 24Hz rate for film-based content -- i.e., they are sped up a bit for playback. The eye doesn't see this for the video, but the audio has to be pitch corrected when making such discs so that it sounds right. But the advantage is that the playback rate now divides evenly into the display's refresh rate, which means you have no "cadence judder", and no need to change refresh rate of the display when viewing video-based content vs. film-based content.
> 
> 
> The problem with what you are doing is that your player is NOT sending 25Hz video to the Anthem. It is sending 480i/60 or 480p/60. That means the audio pitch is right, but that the Anthem has to compensate to reduce the /60 frame rate to /50 for output by discarding some of the frames. The Anthem is probably doing this well (we've not had much discussion of it here) but it is added processing which it is probably better to avoid lest you introduce a different type of judder in the video.
> 
> 
> So although you may not see any issues, you'd probably be better off sticking with 480p/60 output from the Anthem into your Component video projector.
> 
> --Bob



Ahh so, Bob! You couldn't have been clearer. So my subconcious misgivings are correct, that I'm probably better off with output of 480p/60 from the D2.


I presume that you are talking about NTSC SDVDs. But if its a PAL SDVD, then I suppose the D2 should then be set to output 576p/50 for component (and 1080p/50 for HDMI).


Many thanks.

Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/13278356
> 
> 
> This weekend I experienced the "Oppo screech". I've heard it mentioned before but haven't given it much thought as my D2 has been working flawlessly since it has been installed. Is this an Oppo or D2 issue? I tried the search feature using Oppo and D2 with too many results. TIA, Carl.



I don't think we know who is "at fault" on this one, but we've had reports here that the most recent Anthem software (the one with the ARC stuff in it) has reduced, and perhaps eliminated, occurrences of this. We'll have to see what happens when we get more folks on that software version.

--Bob


----------



## buyrightlow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13274434
> 
> 
> It ain't the D2 settings that are causing your PC to crash. Look harder at the forceware driver. Try a different version here . Make sure it's a WHQL version.



I went to the sight, but was intimidated by the large number of downloads available. Can you recommend a specific one for a Vista 32 bit OS, using the Nvidea 8600GTS videocard?


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13279379
> 
> 
> I don't think we know who is "at fault" on this one, but we've had reports here that the most recent Anthem software (the one with the ARC stuff in it) has reduced, and perhaps eliminated, occurrences of this. We'll have to see what happens when we get more folks on that software version.
> 
> --Bob



Great news honey!!!! They've got this new software thingey coming out that will take care of that annoying screeching sound. We'll never hear it again. Oh yeah, they said something about it coming with ARC, whatever that is, but it really will take care of that annoying noise you sometimes hear when you try to watch a DVD. I'll order it for you as soon as it's available.


Thanks Bob!!!!!!


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/13265345
> 
> 
> Well, I'm very disappointed in the D2 and Anthem technical support in one regard. I have a new Nvidea 8600GTS video card with 512mb(with DVI-I out), certainly a well regarded and widely used card. Tech support at Anthem has informed me that the D2 (I'm runnning v 1.21) has many problems with video cards and that the D2 is not well suited to hook up to a PC and they can do nothing about the fact that my Marantz VP15(which is really wonderful) works perfectly when hooked up directly to the PC, but when connected through the D2, crashes the PC almost every time I hook it up through the D2, albeit not every time. When I disconnect the cable from the D2 and run to the projector and it works, I have repluged it into the D2, sometimes the D2 will handle it, but eventually it crashes. I also went out and purchased the Gefen DVI Detective, to no avail. They advise there is nothing they can do to help me with this problem and I shouldn't be using the D2 as part of a media center hub that includes PC's I find this very troubling and not the kind of support that should be expected from Anthem on their high end product. If I knew then what I now know, that Anthem will not support the D2 in a media center with PC set-up, I would have purchased another product. I'm now thinking my only alternative is to run the PC directly to the 2nd hdmi input on the Marantz. Sadly, that will require more wall breaking to hide the cable and lose the ability of the D2 on the video side. I hope the D2 will support the digital audio coming out of my high end Creative Blaster audio card. :-(



When I built my new PC about 6 months ago I had a bunch of challenges (I am sure some here remember and suggestions were graciously provided).


In the end for me it was much more of a Vista thing than a TV/D2 thing. I even went as far as getting the Geffen repeater etc.


I started with the ATI 9200HD and compatible motherboard and ended up going to the8800GTS and new motherboard AND going back to XP Prof.


I am checking back some PM's top see for sure, but I think getting an image wasn't really my problem, it was getting it to pixel map to my 1920 x 1080 TV that my old 1/23 the cost card did no problems lol.


If I find anything relevant to help you I will post it back.


Cheers


PS. Forgot to mention, that in my case, the results were pretty much the same through the D2 or direct to the TV (HP Pavillion MD8065N which has HDMI handshake quirks all its own ;-).


If you mentioned it I missed it, but does your PC work perfect when connected directly or is that not a feasible test due to location or something?


PPS. I haven't read past your post so if all this was addressed then sorry for the repetition.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/13278356
> 
> 
> This weekend I experienced the "Oppo screech". I've heard it mentioned before but haven't given it much thought as my D2 has been working flawlessly since it has been installed. Is this an Oppo or D2 issue? I tried the search feature using Oppo and D2 with too many results. TIA, Carl.



I had the Oppo screech happen to me a couple times this weekend. It appears from talking to Nick and some of the troubleshooting we did one day when my D2 was stuck screeching was that the HDMI port gets "locked up" for some reason with the Oppo. It's unknown what's at fault and there's no definitive way to reproduce it. Over the weekend I was able to clear it by pulling the power cord on the Oppo and turning off the D2 via the rear power switch. This is with 1.29j. At one point I had resorted back to coax for audio which was no big deal for me because I only use the Oppo for SD-DVD playback. I did eliminate the coax when I redid some wiring and the Oppo seemed to be behaving better and the screech has only happened 3 times or so in the last couple weeks.


larry


----------



## RROSEN

Hey BuyRightLow,


Tell you what I will do. I have gotten so much great support and info in this thread (by far the best thread on anything anywhere I have ever seen) that the least I can do is some troubleshooting for you.


I just moved so do not yet have my HTPC connected yet (just brought home the WiFi card for it on the weekend (Location location location hahaa).


I have my HTPC with the 8800GTS, Win XP Prof and I also have a DELL XPS 1730 with 2 nVidia GeForce 8700GT cards SLI'd with DVI->HDMI & Vista Bus. I also have the Gefen DVI Detective.


I have not tried hooking up the XPS yet, but I have the means to try out a variety of connection combinations including the XPS Vista with and without the Gefen direct to the TV and through the D2 and the HTPC with the same options as well.


That alone would give me 8 variations across the 2 operating and nVidia cards. Not sure if any specific output resolutions will make much of a difference, but I seem to remember that with the HTPC at least I HAD to output xxxx/30 to get it to work. IE. couldn't output anything at /60 (xxxx/59 may have worked hahaa) and get an image.


First thing I will do is check for Driver/software updates for the HTPC's 8800GTS since I haven't checked in a few months.


I will then take the HTPC first and go direct to the TV and find what works best (Should be what is default set when I connect everything and if I end up with a driver software update I will first record the initial settings). Then I will try with the gefen and then through the D2 with and without the Gefen powering off and disconnecting the HTPC prior to connection changes of any sort. I will also change source on the D2 and back when applicable prior to any PC reboots to "clear" the path. Hopefully complete power down and all cable disconnect won't be required.


To me this sounds like a pretty thorough initial trial and error test set. In all cases with the D2 in the path I will be outputting to the HP TV at 1080p/60.


What info do you want collected for each test (at least the successful ones). At the least I can think of PC output resolution and frequency and when the D2 is n the path what it is reporting for input and output. I will also report on how well the resulting image pixel maps. I think the best I have gotten to previously was the TV reporting full 1920x1080 in, but still leaving about a 1" black border. Picture is spectacular though.


Are there any other specific settings I should try with the D2 in the path (color space etc) to make this more inclusive? I probably won't start this until tomorrow (Tuesday) afternoon so any suggestions for setup variants and or data/setting to be captured and reported can be posted here and I will do my be4st to include all the variations.


I will enter my findings in a table/spreadsheet and can provide to anyone who can post that type of thing here. If it actually ends up be anything near consistent and scientific maybe it can be added or linked to the first post and others can add similar with other HTPC setups.


Anyway, hopefully this will be of some value to some of you. There is some good info on this stuff in the HTPC threads here at AVS also.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN

Oppo screech? What the heck is that hahaa?


I have thankfully never experienced this with my 970HD.


PS. I bought the 970HD, because I thought it was the only, or the best at outputting 480i so is it possible that the 980 does not offer 480i as an output option? Hopefully I remember incorrectly, but I thought I would mention it just in case for anyone buying on for that purpose.


Also, for the SD-DVD output I think someone interpreted Bob's response to be output 488p from the Oppo and I believe that should be 480i. Basically my understanding from everything I have read here is that you should ALWAYS output as unprocessed a signal (Audio and Video) to the D2 and let it do the heavy lifting as needed. This rule of thumb which extends to source device image correction, black level tweaks, speaker setting etc has served me very very well.


It also means that for any adjustments you may need/want to do, you only have one place to make them and that is a gift from the gods hahaa.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ninja12

Since I have upgraded to fw 1.29k, I have notice that my OSD does not display on my T.V. that often. When it does display, it's only for few minutes before it begins to get jumpy, fuzzy, blurry, and eventually disappears completely. Is anyone else, with fw 1.29k, experiencing the same problem?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13284021
> 
> 
> Oppo screech? What the heck is that hahaa?
> 
> 
> I have thankfully never experienced this with my 970HD.
> 
> 
> PS. I bought the 970HD, because I thought it was the only, or the best at outputting 480i so is it possible that the 980 does not offer 480i as an output option? Hopefully I remember incorrectly, but I thought I would mention it just in case for anyone buying on for that purpose.
> 
> 
> Also, for the SD-DVD output I think someone interpreted Bob's response to be output 488p from the Oppo and I believe that should be 480i. Basically my understanding from everything I have read here is that you should ALWAYS output as unprocessed a signal (Audio and Video) to the D2 and let it do the heavy lifting as needed. This rule of thumb which extends to source device image correction, black level tweaks, speaker setting etc has served me very very well.
> 
> 
> It also means that for any adjustments you may need/want to do, you only have one place to make them and that is a gift from the gods hahaa.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Yeah, I've never heard any "screech" from my Oppo unless it was on the soundtrack.










The Oppo 980 DOES offer 480i out over HDMI, and it adds 1080p to what is offered on the 970.


You are correct in the assertion of sending the least processed signal possible to the D2. So you want interlaced instead of progressive as the D2 can deinterlace so much better than most source components.


----------



## RIppolito

Everybody,


I have recently purchased a Toshiba HD-A35, and overall, it has been a terrific experience. I do have one problem, though.


I am having difficulty setting the audio levels when I have the player output PCM. First off, can anyone explain if that makes any sense? If the bitstream output is decoded in the Anthem, and levels managed there, wouldn't the same thing occur with PCM?


I'm assuming that the speaker calibrations in the AVM50 are global, in that there is one set of adjustments, and they persist for all inputs - is that accurate, or bogus?


Thanks in advance,


Ron


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13284021
> 
> 
> Oppo screech? What the heck is that hahaa?
> 
> 
> I have thankfully never experienced this with my 970HD.
> 
> 
> PS. I bought the 970HD, because I thought it was the only, or the best at outputting 480i so is it possible that the 980 does not offer 480i as an output option? Hopefully I remember incorrectly, but I thought I would mention it just in case for anyone buying on for that purpose.
> 
> 
> Also, for the SD-DVD output I think someone interpreted Bob's response to be output 488p from the Oppo and I believe that should be 480i. Basically my understanding from everything I have read here is that you should ALWAYS output as unprocessed a signal (Audio and Video) to the D2 and let it do the heavy lifting as needed. This rule of thumb which extends to source device image correction, black level tweaks, speaker setting etc has served me very very well.
> 
> 
> It also means that for any adjustments you may need/want to do, you only have one place to make them and that is a gift from the gods hahaa.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



You'll know the screech when you hear it.







I think it only happens with 970s. Anthem has a bunch of 970s and have encountered the issue. However, it's a nondeterministic when it happens so it's hard to fix. And, yes, 480i and YCbCr should be fed to the D2 as it involves the least amount of processing by the player.


larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/13287709
> 
> 
> Everybody,
> 
> 
> I have recently purchased a Toshiba HD-A35, and overall, it has been a terrific experience. I do have one problem, though.
> 
> 
> I am having difficulty setting the audio levels when I have the player output PCM. First off, can anyone explain if that makes any sense? If the bitstream output is decoded in the Anthem, and levels managed there, wouldn't the same thing occur with PCM?
> 
> 
> I'm assuming that the speaker calibrations in the AVM50 are global, in that there is one set of adjustments, and they persist for all inputs - is that accurate, or bogus?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Ron



First make sure that speaker management is turned off in the A35 so that this isn't being done twice. If there isn't a single setting for disabling it, then lie to the A35 about your speaker configuration so that it decides it has no work to do.


* Tell the A35 you have a full complement of speakers including a subwoofer, whether or not this is true.


* Tell it that all your speakers are "Large"


* Tell it that all your speakers are at the same listening distance. Any distance will do so long as they are all the same.


* Tell it that none of the speakers need any adjustment in volume to keep them in balance (i.e., set all to 0dB boost or cut)


* If it lets you set the crossover for the subwoofer even when the main speakers are "Large", either disable that in the A35 or set it as high as possible.


If that doesn't do it for you, then the next step is to make sure you haven't accidentally set any of the "temporary" level adjustments in the Anthem. These are the ones you can set with the remote control, and they act in addition to the calibration level settings you set in the Setup menu for the speakers. The "temporary" settings are remembered per input source and per type of audio from each source, so it is easy to think you have cleared one you were playing with when you haven't actually done so. To clear ALL the "temporary" settings at once do this:


* Go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings


* Save User Settings


* Restore Factory Defaults. You may lose video at this point, but you can continue via the Front Panel display.


* Restore User Settings. You should now have video again.


The "temporary" settings are not saved, so this returns all off them to their factory default settings.


If you are still having problems, double check that you have the latest A35 firmware. The Speaker Level settings in the Anthem are, indeed, global (except that you can specify a different subwoofer level for Cinema and for Music speaker configuration). If after all of this you are still having problems you should carefully double-check your level settings in the Anthem. Be sure you are measuring with an SPL meter and not just doing it by ear. Consider setting a "compromise" set of levels that you develop by measuring at a few listening locations (not just dead center). The surround content in your HD-DVD movies may be more aggressive than you are used to and if your speakers are not set right to begin with in the Anthem, that may become more noticeable. Then go through the process of measuring bass at various frequencies in the Room Resonance Filter menu. If you have not carefully set up your subwoofer to deal with peaks and dips in the room response to bass then the more aggressive bass in your HD-DVD movies may seem out of balance. Of course if you have the ARC stuff, this gets done for you.


After all that, if things still don't seem quite right, then try a different HD-DVD disc. You may have been using a movie that has a wacky sound track with odd level settings. If you find you are having issues with only a few discs, you can either live with it, or use the "temporary" level settings on the Anthem Remote to deal with it.

--Bob


----------



## gtimbers

Does the D2 shut off only the outputs and displays when it is shut down from the front panel (or remote)? I am looking for a state where the internal electronics are on and warm and only the displays and signal paths are shut off to following equipment. This way the unit is ready to power-up and use immediately. The unit appears to cool down when I turn it off with the DSP off button.


I assume that Bob will know the answer as it appears that he has had a Vulcan mind-meld with a D2. I didn't think that man-machine links like that could be made.....but I see no other way he could know everything he knows.


Thanks for any input.


Greg


----------



## RROSEN

OK, sorry this has taken so long.


Between some initial setup challenges getting things working at all, a marathon support call with Amazon on an order I was trying to place for something completely unrelated, Wireless card install and driver update, I am just now playing around with it a bit.


The good news is that I am currently looking at my PC image through the D2 on my HP Pavillion MD8065N (or is that MD6580N lol). The Gefen DVI Detective IS in the path and I set it with the source as Aux, into HDMI 4 and HDMI Repeater set to "NO".


So what I know so far is that this setup works although I have some over scan. IE. My Desktop image extends past the borders of my Screen by a hair. I can best describe "a hair" as about 1/5th - 1/6th of one of th3e desktop icons or about 1/3 - 1/4 of the bottom row of icons in the taskbar.


I am sure there must be some way to tweak that through the D2, but I am not that proficient and its late now hahaa.


This issue is also present when I connect directly to the display using HDMI 2, but if I connect directly to the display with HDMI 1 (which has a PC INPUT MODE) it actually under scans a bit and I get the full image with about 1/2" - 1" black border around it (which is much preferable).


The main difference being that the signal coming through the D2 is not, and doesn't seem to have the possibility of being identified as PC in origin so the PC option is not displayed or available.


I would like to try and tweak the image through the D2 to "fit" the screen if anyone has any starting points for me to try.


In any case I will follow through on the balance of my testing tomorrow (or at least a bunch more of it. I will now include the HDMI Repeater Yes/No for each test unless it proves out to make no difference after a bunch, but in this case I got it working with it set to NO when I set up the Gefen. An on the fly changing of the Repeater to YES makes no difference and the image still displays, but since the Gefen was already set with the repeater set to NO, I assume this wouldn't really make any difference.


Of course tomorrow we may find out that it works fine without the Gefen, but it seems unlikely since the first successful image I got through the D2 was WITH the Gefen albeit without any systematic attempt at getting it working without the Gefen yet hahaa. Good times.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## bool

I do not have a D2, but an AVM50. I have one of my PCs hooked up to it through HDMI4 and coax for audio. I am using NVidia 8800 GTXs in SLI mode and a HT Omega Claro Plus for sound. Motherboard is Asus Striker Extreme. The OS is Vista 32-bit. Windows actually recognizes my AVM50 as a Statement D2.


I initially had an issue with overscan, but the newest Nvidia drivers allow for that to be adjusted. No problems with sound and gaming with a home theater setup is fun. I do not watch DVDs through this PC, I just use it as a music server and game machine. The only issue I have at this time is occasionally I will not have any video when booting up. I have to reset the computer and it will usually come back. I am still tinkering with the settings on the AVM50, but I think the issue may be with the HDMI. I am thinking of trying the component video connection next if this problem persists.


For anyone not having issues, what are your settings in the source setup menu?


Thanks


----------



## AnthemAVM

So anyone able to order your ARC? New baby and 11 hour days at work, have kept me away from the forum.


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/13296312
> 
> 
> So anyone able to order your ARC? New baby and 11 hour days at work, have kept me away from the forum.



Nothing yet. Maybe by the end of the month. At least thats what I'm hoping for.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtimbers* /forum/post/13294766
> 
> 
> Does the D2 shut off only the outputs and displays when it is shut down from the front panel (or remote)? I am looking for a state where the internal electronics are on and warm and only the displays and signal paths are shut off to following equipment. This way the unit is ready to power-up and use immediately. The unit appears to cool down when I turn it off with the DSP off button.
> 
> 
> I assume that Bob will know the answer as it appears that he has had a Vulcan mind-meld with a D2. I didn't think that man-machine links like that could be made.....but I see no other way he could know everything he knows.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any input.
> 
> 
> Greg



In standby (powered off via the remote or front panel), everything is turned off in the D2 except for the portion of it that listens to remote control and front panel buttons and the RS-232 control connector.


I'm not sure why you would want to leave it on but with audio/video output muted. That's tricky with HDMI since the source wants to know whether or not the display is HDCP (copy protection) compliant for example. You can Mute audio of course, but there isn't the sort of warm-standby mode you are asking for.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RROSEN,

Make sure you have Video Source Adjust / Crop Input / Edges = OFF set for that input source. Edges=ON will crop a thin strip around all 4 sides of the input image (for removing noisy edges in the image).


Are you getting "overscan" cropping with other HDMI input sources? I.e., if you use the pixel cropping test chart from a standard calibration DVD do you see all the way out to the "0" pixel on all 4 sides? (NOTE: Some DVD players are known to crop a pixel or two themselves -- check the test results at the Secrets of Home Theater web site.) If you are getting imaging from the DVD player without cropping, then the Anthem is set up correctly for video output and your TV is set up correctly to display imaging from the Anthem without overscan. Which means your overscan problem is entirely on the input side for your PC source -- i.e., either your PC is cropping its output or you have the wrong settings for Video Source Adjust/Crop Input for that input in the Anthem.


Read the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling posts in the collection of links in the first post of this thread for more info on how Cropping and Scaling works in the Anthem. You need to use a Crop which matches the shape of the input image coming from your PC.


The HDMI Repeater setting in the Anthem should have no effect on cropping or overscan.


If you find your TV is the one generating the overscan crop because of the particular video signal coming from the Anthem (i.e., regardless of video input source), then you can use the Live Video Settings Editor application to construct Custom Video Output timings for the Anthem which will then become available as a choice in Setup / Video Output. You should be able to precisely duplicate whatever it is your TV is recognizing as a "PC" video signal. If your TV gives you only the choices of overscan or underscan then there's not really anything the Anthem or your input sources can do about that.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan

I sent you an interesting PM Bob.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/13296312
> 
> 
> So anyone able to order your ARC? New baby and 11 hour days at work, have kept me away from the forum.



Don't be in a rush to get it, it still has a few problems.


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13302867
> 
> 
> Don't be in a rush to get it, it still has a few problems.



such as?


----------



## gtimbers

Thanks for the response. My reasoning is that most properly designed electronics perform better when they are at operating temperature. Preamp type things don't generate a hugh amount of heat and can therefore, take quite a while to reach thermal stability. The D2 is rather "glassy" sounding until it warms up - which can take many hours. I am a little surprised that at least the audio sections are not kept functioning. This is a common feature for most higher end audio gear. I think the D2 is an overachiever that belongs in that category. It works way better than it has any right to.


I guess I'll just dim the display when I put it to sleep. I don't want my little lights wearing out.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Interesting! Personally I haven't found any variation in audio or video quality from a normal (cold) startup, but I haven't actually been looking for it.


You can set the Front Panel display to OFF using the Remote and use the setting in Setup / Displays and Timeout to have it switch automatically to a higher brightness when it needs to display something. You can mute the audio, and of course you can turn off your TV. That will leave everything running in the D2 if you want. It's probably best to select an input source with nothing connected as well so that the D2 isn't trying to switch audio types or redo the HDMI handshake with the TV turned off overnight.


Alternatively you could set a wakeup timer in Setup to turn on the D2 prior to when you want to use it.

--Bob


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/13302893
> 
> 
> such as?



I believe 1 issue they were having was assigning the microphone to the serial # of the D2 it was sold to. They, for obvious reasons don't want people rotating one microphone amongst many D2 owners.


----------



## rkphelps

Does anyone know if Anthem is planning on making the Arc-1 available to D1 owners? I don't plan on upgrading my D1 to a D2 because I just like keeping my sound and Video stuff separate (maybe I'm just to old fashion that way I guess). In fact I'm a little upset that Anthem has kind of left us D1 owners behind. I mainly bought the D1 because of Anthems rep for future proofing my sound surround processor (not to have it evolve into a video scaler)







. I still love my D1, I just want to keep current with all the new toys on the sound side of things.


----------



## netroamer

I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit that I don't know the answer to this, but here goes...


The Equipment: Sony BDP-S2000ES, Anthem D2 V1.29k, Sony G90 (with HDMI card).


The Question: How does the D2 process a 1080-24p input and send it to a 1080-60p display. I set the 2000ES to send out 24p to the D2, that the D2 acknowledges in the status screen, and I believe I saw an improvement in the image. What I expected to see happen was that the D2 would use 3:2 pull-down on the 24p image and refresh it to 60p. However, when I checked the status, I noticed that the "Film Mode", that was set to "Auto", showed "Off".


This triggered some questions. If the 2000ES is set to 1080-60p, I assume it does the conversion from 24p to 60p. Set to 24p does the D2 do it better? If the D2 does not engage the "Film" mode what is it doing to get to 60p?


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/13309246
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Anthem is planning on making the Arc-1 available to D1 owners? I don't plan on upgrading my D1 to a D2 because I just like keeping my sound and Video stuff separate (maybe I'm just to old fashion that way I guess). In fact I'm a little upset that Anthem has kind of left us D1 owners behind. I mainly bought the D1 because of Anthems rep for future proofing my sound surround processor (not to have it evolve into a video scaler)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I still love my D1, I just want to keep current with all the new toys on the sound side of things.



Yes, the ARC-1 will also be available for D1 owners -- presumably at about the same time as they start shipping the upgrade for D2 owners. This was confirmed at CES in January.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

Can someone help troubleshoot? I have a Series 3 HD Tivo hooked up via HDMI to my AVM 50 and HDMI out to my Sony Ruby. (all my sources are HDMI into the AVM50). Here's the problem: I'm watching something on Tivo, I jump to my Now Playing List, find something I want, hit enter, and the screen blanks(blues). (I'm using a Harmony 880). I get up to look at the Anthem, and see that the panel says that it has switched from "Auto-Dig" to "Anlg-DSP". To correct it, I manually switch to another source input like "DVD" or Satellite and then back to the Tivo input, and things are fine again, ie, it goes back to Auto-Dig. What's going on??

My source setup for Tivo(like all my other sources) is: Audio in--Dig HDMI, AUTO DIG--Yes, HDMI MAP--Auto.

Anyone have any ideas? Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13309488
> 
> 
> I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit that I don't know the answer to this, but here goes...
> 
> 
> The Equipment: Sony BDP-S2000ES, Anthem D2 V1.29k, Sony G90 (with HDMI card).
> 
> 
> The Question: How does the D2 process a 1080-24p input and send it to a 1080-60p display. I set the 2000ES to send out 24p to the D2, that the D2 acknowledges in the status screen, and I believe I saw an improvement in the image. What I expected to see happen was that the D2 would use 3:2 pull-down on the 24p image and refresh it to 60p. However, when I checked the status, I noticed that the "Film Mode", that was set to "Auto", showed "Off".
> 
> 
> This triggered some questions. If the 2000ES is set to 1080-60p, I assume it does the conversion from 24p to 60p. Set to 24p does the D2 do it better? If the D2 does not engage the "Film" mode what is it doing to get to 60p?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



"Film" mode affects de-interlacing. Since you were already feeding a progressive video stream into the D2 there is no de-interlacing. So the indicator is not an issue.


If the Video Source Adjust / Info panel for that input is showing 1080p/24 in and 1080p/60 out you are good to go.


1080p/24 would always be a film-based stream (as there is no good way to represent video-based content in a /24 stream). So yes the Anthem will be doing full frame pull down to generate the /60 output. But that's different from the film-mode vs video-mode issue for de-interlacing.


[In de-interlacing, the processor needs to know whether both of the interlaced fields making up a frame were captured at the same time (as on a frame of film), or slightly offset in time (as by a video camera). By detecting the field repeat cadence in an interlaced video stream, the processor can tell it is being fed a film-base stream at /60 and do the right thing for de-interlacing.]

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/13312072
> 
> 
> Can someone help troubleshoot? I have a Series 3 HD Tivo hooked up via HDMI to my AVM 50 and HDMI out to my Sony Ruby. (all my sources are HDMI into the AVM50). Here's the problem: I'm watching something on Tivo, I jump to my Now Playing List, find something I want, hit enter, and the screen blanks(blues). (I'm using a Harmony 880). I get up to look at the Anthem, and see that the panel says that it has switched from "Auto-Dig" to "Anlg-DSP". To correct it, I manually switch to another source input like "DVD" or Satellite and then back to the Tivo input, and things are fine again, ie, it goes back to Auto-Dig. What's going on??
> 
> My source setup for Tivo(like all my other sources) is: Audio in--Dig HDMI, AUTO DIG--Yes, HDMI MAP--Auto.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas? Thanks



What's happening is that the HDMI handshake has failed when the Tivo tried to switch to 720p to display its Now Playing list. Give Anthem tech support a call and they can hook you up with the latest software which may reduce the instances of this. When you switch to another source and back the HDMI handshake gets redone, and that time it works.


This Tivo has been giving Anthem fits on its HDMI output. Another alternative is to switch to Component video output and optical digital audio cable from the Tivo.


The Auto-Dig setting you are using switches the Anthem input between using the digital audio connection you have specified or the normal stereo analog audio connection named for that input, according to whether or not audio is detected on the digital audio connection. When the HDMI handshake fails (your blue screen) you are also losing audio on HDMI so the Anthem is switching to the stereo analog input -- processed, and thus ANLG-DSP.


Unless you have a need to use this Auto-Dig automatic switching functionality for any given input, I recommend you set it to OFF as that speeds up changing from one input to another.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13312245
> 
> 
> This Tivo has been giving Anthem fits on its HDMI output. Another alternative is to switch to Component video output and optical digital audio cable from the Tivo.
> 
> --Bob


*Ya Man - My TiVo HD works great with the Anthem D2


I'm using COMPONENT*


----------



## jclem

Thanks for the answers, Bob. It's discouraging to hear that there is a handshake issue. I'd like to keep as "pure" as possible with the HDMI. I hope Anthem can figure it out. I'll give them a call and see about an update. I will also make that Auto dig change that you suggested. Thanks again.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/13313245
> 
> 
> Thanks for the answers, Bob. It's discouraging to hear that there is a handshake issue. I'd like to keep as "pure" as possible with the HDMI. I hope Anthem can figure it out. I'll give them a call and see about an update. I will also make that Auto dig change that you suggested. Thanks again.



Many of us have done Frame-by-Frame comparisons.


At 1080i - there is NO PQ difference you can see.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13312166
> 
> 
> "Film" mode affects de-interlacing. Since you were already feeding a progressive video stream into the D2 there is no de-interlacing. So the indicator is not an issue.
> 
> 
> If the Video Source Adjust / Info panel for that input is showing 1080p/24 in and 1080p/60 out you are good to go.
> 
> 
> 1080p/24 would always be a film-based stream (as there is no good way to represent video-based content in a /24 stream). So yes the Anthem will be doing full frame pull down to generate the /60 output. But that's different from the film-mode vs video-mode issue for de-interlacing.
> 
> 
> [In de-interlacing, the processor needs to know whether both of the interlaced fields making up a frame were captured at the same time (as on a frame of film), or slightly offset in time (as by a video camera). By detecting the field repeat cadence in an interlaced video stream, the processor can tell it is being fed a film-base stream at /60 and do the right thing for de-interlacing.]
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. If I think I am seeing improved video when using the D2 to do the 24/60p conversion, would it be reasonable to conclude that the D2 Processor is better than the Sony converter? Anyone have an opinion?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/13313245
> 
> 
> Thanks for the answers, Bob. It's discouraging to hear that there is a handshake issue. I'd like to keep as "pure" as possible with the HDMI. I hope Anthem can figure it out. I'll give them a call and see about an update. I will also make that Auto dig change that you suggested. Thanks again.



Despite the testing DRHANKZ has done, I too prefer HDMI for my HD and SD TV source. I don't trust the video output stages of these consumer set top boxes to produce good analog video. But then I'm not having the degree of nuisance difficulties we've had reported here from Tivo owners.


By the way, I'm quite certain the fault here is actually in the Tivo box and the way it implements the handshake through an AVR when it does that switch for graphic displays. Anthem's just been trying to work around it.


I'll just add that calibrating a set top box for video is a nuisance without tools most users won't have (signal generators). Using HDMI from a set top box means you may be able to duplicate the HDMI calibration settings you used in the Anthem from an HDMI DVD player that is known to put out a good HDMI signal. This too can be an advantage. Such results won't translate between HDMI tests on one device and Component tests on another.


Of course if you pay a professional to do it right -- with tools -- then this is not an issue.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13313605
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob. If I think I am seeing improved video when using the D2 to do the 24/60p conversion, would it be reasonable to conclude that the D2 Processor is better than the Sony converter? Anyone have an opinion?



This conversion is not that tough, so I suspect there's some "viewer bias" in what you are seeing. (grin!)


But that said, it makes perfectly good sense to set your player to output exactly what is on the disc and let the Anthem do the rest. Which means 1080p/24 from a Blu-Ray player.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13313640
> 
> 
> Despite the testing DRHANKZ has done, I too prefer HDMI for my HD and SD TV source. I don't trust the video output stages of these consumer set top boxes to produce good analog video.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


You are the ULTIMATE - authority here on the Anthem Thread.

Your opinion is highly valued and regarded here. However, basing

your opinion on non-empirical results does not sound like the Bob

we know.







Why not TEST it yourself.


As an EE - I do read Specifications - but ultimately my decisions

are based on PROVEN empirical results - both in my personal life

and the BUSINESS WORLD. If I can't measure the benefits somehow

I can't support the decision.


And Yes - in your Motorola environment - maybe your opinion is sound.

But when you don't have the rest of the technology to TEST with - then

drawing conclusions based on one data-point is not sound advice.


BOB - we HOLD you to the HIGHEST standards because you are the BEST


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/13312072
> 
> 
> Can someone help troubleshoot? I have a Series 3 HD Tivo hooked up via HDMI to my AVM 50 and HDMI out to my Sony Ruby. (all my sources are HDMI into the AVM50). Here's the problem: I'm watching something on Tivo, I jump to my Now Playing List, find something I want, hit enter, and the screen blanks(blues). (I'm using a Harmony 880). I get up to look at the Anthem, and see that the panel says that it has switched from "Auto-Dig" to "Anlg-DSP". To correct it, I manually switch to another source input like "DVD" or Satellite and then back to the Tivo input, and things are fine again, ie, it goes back to Auto-Dig. What's going on??
> 
> My source setup for Tivo(like all my other sources) is: Audio in--Dig HDMI, AUTO DIG--Yes, HDMI MAP--Auto.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas? Thanks



I use component for my Tivo S3 and hdmi for my TivoHD. I cannot see any real difference between the two. Go with Hank's suggestion and switch to component. You will eliminate the handshaking issues.


----------



## jclem

"By the way, I'm quite certain the fault here is actually in the Tivo box and the way it implements the handshake through an AVR when it does that switch for graphic displays. Anthem's just been trying to work around it."



Kudos to Anthem, then, for trying to take care of it. It'd be nice if Tivo would take some repsonsibility. I assume they know about it.....


----------



## ASW

I have no handshake problems at all with my Tivo S3 via HDMI and firmware 1.21d (1.29xx is another story) - there were some glitches with earlier firmware versions but Anthem seems to have worked them out.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Oh,but DRHANKZ I have tested.


Probably not with the same equipment you have used but what I've found with HDMI+Component sources is:


1) Measurable loss of horizontal resolution when using Component at 720p and 1080i compared to HDMI. This is the key thing to me. The devices I've tested in the past apparently have filtering on their Component outputs that can not be disabled. Verified with HD broadcast test patterns on different DVRs. I've also seen this with Component 480i and 480p from a variety of upscaling standard DVD players (which therefor offer HDMI output). Verified with the Avia Pro calibration DVD.


2) Fairly common variation in pixel cropping between Component 720p and 1080i (affects native switching for HD channels).


3) Fairly common variation in "best" calibration levels between Component 480i, 720p and 1080i. Also a nuisance factor. HDMI is usually much more uniform about best calibration for different resolutions (assuming HDMI 480i works properly at all).


I do not have a Tivo S3 and so I've not tried it with that, but I have tried it with the DirecTV Tivo boxes as of about 2 years ago.


Now lest you think all the issues are on one side, I've also seen some HDMI devices that have varying pixel cropping between 720p and 1080i and what's worse (to my mind) I've seen HDMI devices with non-linearities in their gray scale output -- i.e., they skip some steps and merge other steps together. And of course I've seen HDMI devices that screw up, or don't even try to implement, HDMI 480i.


There's no technical reason why a properly engineered Component output shouldn't be able to produce as perfect an image as an HDMI output for 480i, 720p, and 1080i. But for HD broadcast, satellite TV (both standard and HD), and DVD (both standard and Blu-Ray) there is a digital to analog conversion that has to be done to emit analog, Component video. And as you know the DAC stage of a device is a pretty common place for corners to be cut in engineering. Motorola, in particular, has been infamous for the poor quality of their Component video DACs.


[Normally here I'd add the companion problem about then having to convert Component back to digital when it gets to the other end of the cable, but since we're in D2 land here, we don't have to worry about that since the D2 does it right.]


You don't have that problem with HDMI but you have the quite possibly MORE annoying problem of shoddy implementation of the HDMI handshake. And the nuisance of having to tolerate a handshake with each change of device or output resolution.


Now without testing every new device I can't say whether or not my prejudices are out of date, but I see no problem in acting on them: And my prejudice is that given the option I will go with HDMI *FIRST* and only use Component if the HDMI handshake problems (or in some case the HDMI gray scale linearity) causes me more heartburn than setting up Component and verifying that it is doing what it should be doing.


As you probably remember, with my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR I've gone half-way: HDMI for video, optical digital cable for audio. This is due to the extra long handshake Motorola uses to get the audio going AFTER the video is going.


I don't doubt that you are seeing proper Component video, but if I got a Tivo S3 today, I'd still likely try HDMI first, since I'm set in my ways. Nevertheless, it is good to know that Component is a clean alternative. If I ever get an S3 I'll test it as a matter of course just because I like to see for myself, but I'll still probably stay with HDMI unless I find the handshake problems too annoying in my setup.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis

I am currently using a PS3 for DVD playback, but it cannot do 480i, only 480p. Does it make sense to get an Oppo 980H, which can output 480i via HDMI? Annoyingly, I already have an Oppo 981HD that I am no longer using - it only can do 480p, not 480i.


On one hand I figure for $169 I can't go wrong, on the other hand why waste the time and money if its not going to be any better than the PS3?


Thanks,


David


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13299293
> 
> 
> RROSEN,
> 
> Make sure you have Video Source Adjust / Crop Input / Edges = OFF set for that input source. Edges=ON will crop a thin strip around all 4 sides of the input image (for removing noisy edges in the image).
> 
> 
> Are you getting "overscan" cropping with other HDMI input sources? I.e., if you use the pixel cropping test chart from a standard calibration DVD do you see all the way out to the "0" pixel on all 4 sides? (NOTE: Some DVD players are known to crop a pixel or two themselves -- check the test results at the Secrets of Home Theater web site.) If you are getting imaging from the DVD player without cropping, then the Anthem is set up correctly for video output and your TV is set up correctly to display imaging from the Anthem without overscan. Which means your overscan problem is entirely on the input side for your PC source -- i.e., either your PC is cropping its output or you have the wrong settings for Video Source Adjust/Crop Input for that input in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Read the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling posts in the collection of links in the first post of this thread for more info on how Cropping and Scaling works in the Anthem. You need to use a Crop which matches the shape of the input image coming from your PC.
> 
> 
> The HDMI Repeater setting in the Anthem should have no effect on cropping or overscan.
> 
> 
> If you find your TV is the one generating the overscan crop because of the particular video signal coming from the Anthem (i.e., regardless of video input source), then you can use the Live Video Settings Editor application to construct Custom Video Output timings for the Anthem which will then become available as a choice in Setup / Video Output. You should be able to precisely duplicate whatever it is your TV is recognizing as a "PC" video signal. If your TV gives you only the choices of overscan or underscan then there's not really anything the Anthem or your input sources can do about that.
> 
> --Bob



*Bob*, as always thanks for the response. Firstly to answer your questions/suggestions and provide a bit more detail on my original post:


Source/Crop Input / Edges = Off: I did stumble across this setting in my attempts to tweak the picture and you are correct. Edges on = 0 or off gave the same result I think (not surprising. Between that and Scale Out / No Scaling = Some scaling (Hahaa) I managed to get the picture closer to complete on my screen especially on the vertical, but still missing enough horizontal that I wouldn't use it this way.

*Bool*, Do you mind my asking which settings in the nVidia software you use to tweak the image to fill out the screen. I just recently upgraded my 8800GTS Driver and Console software to the latest Dec 07 release so maybe there is something new there I haven't seen.

*Back to Bob* ;-), I do not get overscan or underscan (that I am aware of, but I haven't used the test patterns specifically, but everything looks great) with any other HDMI sources. I did get a nice ZOOM effect when I tried the good DR's Component Cable/SAT comparison test that I was eventually able to eliminate with a change in the Video Source Adjust / Scale Out / No Scaling = Yes (from whatever the original selection was "I think it was Anamorphic Stretch which works perfectly for HDMI sources or at least my cable ;-) ).


I confidently believe that my over/underscan issues are completely PC/video card/software related (Not a shadow of a doubt here based on my own and what others have posted from various tests with various Op Systems, Video cards and motherboards and the fact that all other sources are golden).


I am still a little dizzy from my initial read through the fun with custom cropping and scaling from when I initially bought my D2. The same phenomenon happens when I try to wrap my brain around room acoustics past 1st order reflections hahaa. I may give it another read, but given what I have decided below, for my PC at least it probably isn't necessary.


As you stated, the HDMI repeater setting in the D2 has no effect on cropping or overscan. It also does not appear to have any effect on the success of the Gefen DVI Detective's setup and resulting success in allowing my PC signal to work with the D2.


I do not have the Live Video Settings Editor that I am aware of. I am at FW ver 1.2. I guess I will get it along with the ARC? Someday soon (fingers crossed).


My PC testing. Basically with my HTPC I am only able to get an overscanned image through the D2 with the Gefen DVI Detective in the signal path. I can get the overscan relatively close to workable with some tweaking and I have every confidence that if I could mind meld with Bob's brain he could get it fixed.


The reality is that for my having the HTPC connected directly to the HDMI 1 (With the PC input option and resulting 'slight' underscan, is pretty much ideal for me since it not only provides the most stable and usable image, but frees up a needed HDMI input on the back of the D2) so I will be using it this way.


I will do some testing with my laptop, but for today I think trying to get my Harmony 890 configured and working is my top priority. I am sick of having literally 6 remotes clustered around with the magical ability of the one I am reaching for to go into hide and seek mode










I do have a couple questions regarding the Harmony 890. When I initially set it up, for some reason when I changed from say Watch HD-DVD to Cable or whatever, it seemed to almost randomly change the input selection on my HP Pavilion MD6580N HDTV. Very strange. I confirmed that I had selected the correct input in my 890 Setup for each activity and in fact the HDTV was set on the correct input when I started trying it out so it didn't actually need to change anything. Anyone experience anything like this?


Also, I will need to use the custom commands to access some of the secondary sources (SAT2, TV2/3 etc). Can someone remind me where I can find these? I assume I would then just edit the specific command line in the activity lists sequence to use this direct command rather than the generic source command.


Setting up my Sirius Sportster 5 looks like it will be fun. It says it finds a similar device (Sportster 1), but I am not sure if the commands are the same. I went through the rigorous command by command learning exercise, but I now have 2 Sat Radio devices listed (one must be the manually learned one and one the 'copy of the Sportster 1', but I guess I need to play around to see which works best hahaa. Should keep me out of trouble for most of the afternoon.


One last question. Due to my now residence being a Loft, I ordered the pioneer SE-DIR800C Wireless DD / DTS 5.1 headphones for later night use and to be considerate of my neighbours (They really are a bit of an inconvenience. I am sure they are very mice people, but what they are all doing living in my building is beyond me hahaa)


The headphone base accepts both Optical and COAX digital inputs. How would I set this up to mute/turn off the outputs to the AMP/Speakers while still outputting to the Wireless Headphones Base station? Note: Just to be clear this question is not related to the Harmony 890, but specific to the D2 settings. Just wanted to be clear ;-)


OK, lots of typing there. May need a nap to recover ;-).


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13318099
> 
> 
> Oh,but DRHANKZ I have tested.
> 
> 
> If I ever get an S3 I'll test it as a matter of course just because I like to see for myself, but I'll still probably stay with HDMI unless I find the handshake problems too annoying in my setup.
> 
> --Bob



I'm glad to hear of your testing history. Like I said we

hold *GODs* to higher standards










BTW - even a Tivo S3 is now a generation old. TiVo_HD

is the latest and greatest.


----------



## obie_fl

I imagine this subject has been broached in the last year or two here but since I have a DVI display I likely never paid attention.







What does the D2 output for audio over HDMI? I know this may seem like a silly question but I have my reasons.







Is audio even passed? If so what exactly is it passing?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/13319659
> 
> 
> I imagine this subject has been broached in the last year or two here but since I have a DVI display I likely never paid attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What does the D2 output for audio over HDMI? I know this may seem like a silly question but I have my reasons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is audio even passed? If so what exactly is it passing?



The HDMI output sends out 2 channel PCM (only) -- a stereo mixdown of whatever is sourced for the Main path. See Section 2.2 of the manual.

--bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13318417
> 
> 
> I am currently using a PS3 for DVD playback, but it cannot do 480i, only 480p. Does it make sense to get an Oppo 980H, which can output 480i via HDMI? Annoyingly, I already have an Oppo 981HD that I am no longer using - it only can do 480p, not 480i.
> 
> 
> On one hand I figure for $169 I can't go wrong, on the other hand why waste the time and money if its not going to be any better than the PS3?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David



My recollection is that the Gods at "Secrets of Home Theater" had given the PS3 pretty good marks for its de-interlacing, so it's really a matter of how much you want to chase perfection for standard DVDs. Google them and read their review to see if my memory is any good on this.


As you say, the cost of a perfectly decent standard DVD HDMI 480i player is not that much, but it is another device to fuss with.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Thanks Bob I searched the manual high and low and missed that... Arrg now I see the note under the figure, read that section five times and didn't see it.







That's kind of what I expected was hoping for 5 channel PCM.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13320535
> 
> 
> My recollection is that the Gods at "Secrets of Home Theater" had given the PS3 pretty good marks for its de-interlacing, so it's really a matter of how much you want to chase perfection for standard DVDs. Google them and read their review to see if my memory is any good on this.
> 
> 
> As you say, the cost of a perfectly decent standard DVD HDMI 480i player is not that much, but it is another device to fuss with.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - here is the quote from their conclusion:


"Like most game consoles, the PS3 is not what I would call a preferred video playback solution for standard DVDs. However, it is far and away one of the best Blu-ray players on the market today and an outstanding value for those looking to add HD support to their home theater system. But I would still recommend a higher quality stand alone DVD player for the more demanding home theater enthusiast."


I think its worth an extra $169 - anyone disagree?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RROSEN,

I'm not sure why you are using Scale Out = NO SCALING. That setting is usually only for testing things during setup. The normal choices for Scale Out would be Anamorphic (the cropped input is stretched as necessary to fill the shape of your Video Output setting) or Letter/Pillar Box (the cropped input is padded with bars as necessary to fill the shape your your Video Output setting).


-----------------------------


Give Anthem tech support a call and they will give you access to the web site where you can download a firmware install kit. That will include, among other things, the Live Video Settings Editor application that runs on a Windows PC.


----------------------------


The "direct" remote settings you are looking for are in Appendix A of the Anthem manual.


The problem with the Harmony and your TV may be either:

1) You have a remote control conflict and the remote codes for some other device are mistakenly being picked up by your TV as well, or


2) You need to adjust the timings and repeat counts for the device settings in the Harmony for your TV so that it accurately detects the proper input selection commands. Harmony has wonderful, free phone help, so give them a call if you can't figure this out.


-----------------------------


As for your digital headphones: There are a pair of coaxial digital outputs on the Anthem intended to be used with a digital recorder. It will pass through whatever is coming in from a digital source on the Record path or will output 2 channel PCM from an analog source (when Copied from the Main path). EXCEPTION: HDMI audio input will not be sent to this output due to HDMI copy protection.


See Section 4.2 of the manual for how to use these 2 Digital outputs. It's a bit complicated. The easiest way for you to use these would probably be Mute the Main path, but I've not actually played with the Record path a lot.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13320711
> 
> 
> RROSEN,
> 
> I'm not sure why you are using Scale Out = NO SCALING. That setting is usually only for testing things during setup. The normal choices for Scale Out would be Anamorphic (the cropped input is stretched as necessary to fill the shape of your Video Output setting) or Letter/Pillar Box (the cropped input is padded with bars as necessary to fill the shape your your Video Output setting).
> 
> 
> -----------------------------
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call and they will give you access to the web site where you can download a firmware install kit. That will include, among other things, the Live Video Settings Editor application that runs on a Windows PC.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------
> 
> 
> The "direct" remote settings you are looking for are in Appendix A of the Anthem manual.
> 
> 
> The problem with the Harmony and your TV may be either:
> 
> 1) You have a remote control conflict and the remote codes for some other device are mistakenly being picked up by your TV as well, or
> 
> 
> 2) You need to adjust the timings and repeat counts for the device settings in the Harmony for your TV so that it accurately detects the proper input selection commands. Harmony has wonderful, free phone help, so give them a call if you can't figure this out.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------
> 
> 
> As for your digital headphones: There are a pair of coaxial digital outputs on the Anthem intended to be used with a digital recorder. It will pass through whatever is coming in from a digital source on the Record path or will output 2 channel PCM from an analog source (when Copied from the Main path). EXCEPTION: HDMI audio input will not be sent to this output due to HDMI copy protection.
> 
> 
> See Section 4.2 of the manual for how to use these 2 Digital outputs. It's a bit complicated. The easiest way for you to use these would probably be Mute the Main path, but I've not actually played with the Record path a lot.
> 
> --Bob



The NO SCALING option is just something I was playing around with to adjust the PC input picture through the D2. Any other setting makes the overscan worse for whatever reason.


Since the PC input works fin directly into the TV's HDMI 1 with the optical audio into the D2 for sound I will probably wait fir the ARC and FW upgrade (Does it include the live video settings editor?)


Thanks for all the Remote and headphones tips. Now where did I pack that manual hahaa.


So if it won't pass the audio from HDMI sources (which of course all of mine are connected via) I need to then also connect everything by optical or COAX digital and hope all my sources output both simultaneously? Nice hahaa.


I am having a vision of a scary scenario whereby I have a separate Headphones and Speaker Activity for each source in order to switch the sources (and D2's input) of the audio depending on which I want... OUCH


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13319122
> 
> 
> I'm glad to hear of your testing history. Like I said we
> 
> hold *GODs* to higher standards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW - even a Tivo S3 is now a generation old. TiVo_HD
> 
> is the latest and greatest.



What what what??? Latest, yes, greatest, no my friend...not at all...I have 1 of each, and the S3 is a better made unit, more flexible with certain external storage functions, etc. Check out tivocommunity.com for more details.


Tivo introduced the TivoHD to get an HD unit into more hands by having a cheaper price point. There were some shortcuts taken with certain components to reach the lower price point. If I could only keep 1 in my house, it would be the S3 any day of the week and twice on Sunday.


Long live the S3, its a great unit (with a really nice OLED read-out )


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/13322253
> 
> 
> What what what??? Latest, yes, greatest, no my friend...not at all...I have 1 of each, and the S3 is a better made unit, more flexible with certain external storage functions, etc. Check out tivocommunity.com for more details.
> 
> 
> Tivo introduced the TivoHD to get an HD unit into more hands by having a cheaper price point. There were some shortcuts taken with certain components to reach the lower price point. If I could only keep 1 in my house, it would be the S3 any day of the week and twice on Sunday.
> 
> 
> Long live the S3, its a great unit (with a really nice OLED read-out )



My statement is still correct. I said the S3 was

one generation old. Where did I say which was

better?










After All - I have not done empirical testing of

the S3 versus the HD - so I can't make any claims










OK - greatest should not be interpreted as better.

Just the current TiVo Product line Box


----------



## fyzziks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13313640
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, I'm quite certain the fault here is actually in the Tivo box and the way it implements the handshake through an AVR when it does that switch for graphic displays. Anthem's just been trying to work around it.



I wouldn't be so sure where the fault lies, given the Tivo S3 works faultlessly with many other brands of AVR. It may be that all the other manufacturers have some workaround for the S3 fault that Anthem doesn't, but that just doesn't seem too likely.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fyzziks* /forum/post/13323515
> 
> 
> I wouldn't be so sure where the fault lies, given the Tivo S3 works faultlessly with many other brands of AVR. It may be that all the other manufacturers have some workaround for the S3 fault that Anthem doesn't, but that just doesn't seem too likely.



Most other AVRs don't accept the range of video resolutions the Anthem does. This alone complicates the job for the source as it has to sort through the options returned by the destination.


The bottom line is that it is the source device that is in charge of making the connection work. All the destination device can do is try to force retries until the source produces a connection which is good.


It's only speculation of course, but I still think the odds are the basic screwup is on the Tivo side.

--Bob


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13324806
> 
> 
> Most other AVRs don't accept the range of video resolutions the Anthem does. This alone complicates the job for the source as it has to sort through the options returned by the destination.
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



This is why i *really wish* that they would give us control of what each HDMI input supports via the editor. Yes 99% of folks would not use it, but for some of the more advanced users, they (we) could disable all but a couple of resolutions. You would think that would reduce problems, *plus* I bet it would reduce handshake times (just my opinion - not based in fact).


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13318894
> 
> *Bool*, Do you mind my asking which settings in the nVidia software you use to tweak the image to fill out the screen. I just recently upgraded my 8800GTS Driver and Console software to the latest Dec 07 release so maybe there is something new there I haven't seen.
> 
> 
> Richard



Richard-


I am using the latest WHQL Forceware drvers for Vista 32-bit. I think they are from Dec 07. I go into the nVidia control panel and pick the "change your desktop size" (I think that is what it's called) option. It has sliders that will allow you to bring in or extend the edges of the video display. When I use the HDMI connection, I get overscan. If I use the component connection I get underscan. I also can only get a 30HZ refresh rate w/component.


As far as stability goes, component is completely stable when resolutions change for gaming. With HDMI there would be the occasional problem with the video dropping out. This would only occur when going through the AVM50. No problem when connected directly to the TV. With the component connection, the image seemed a bit softer, but I would just adjust the scaler option in the AVM50 to improve that so text was more legible.


I have not tried watching any DVDs on my computer since I would much rather use my Denon 3910 for that and my PS3 for Blu-Ray.


I also noticed that you are using a Logitech remote. I just got a Harmony One and it is very easy to setup. Programming macros is a piece of cake. I don't think you can access all the advanced controls of every remote without customization, but when things are setup properly those settings don't really need to be adjusted anyways. It allows my wife to touch a button that says play DVD and it sets everything. She is very happy with that. She was not a fan of my Pronto Pro, but that was probably my fault for not spending enough time tweaking it for super simple use (very time consuming process).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/13326131
> 
> 
> This is why i *really wish* that they would give us control of what each HDMI input supports via the editor. Yes 99% of folks would not use it, but for some of the more advanced users, they (we) could disable all but a couple of resolutions. You would think that would reduce problems, *plus* I bet it would reduce handshake times (just my opinion - not based in fact).



This is not a bad idea, but I suspect it could be made simpler than complete control via the editor, as the issue is usually only with simpler devices such as set top boxes. So you could have a per HDMI input setting in the Setup menu that allows either BASIC 60Hz, BASIC 50Hz, or ADVANCED with the advice to use one of the basic settings if your source device uses only 480i, 480p, 720p or 1080i at /60 or 576i, 576p, 720p or 1080i at /50 and is having trouble making the connection happen reliably.


However I doubt it would speed up the connection times, as those are more a factor of the built-in delays in the handshake spec and the need to do retries if the timing is off regarding when a delay begins/ends, or if the source has miss-implemented its delays.


The problem with doing this control is that the EDID stuff is probably kept at a fairly low level in the hardware (in the HDMI controller chip set) so it may not be easy to modify without reflashing that programmable device.


And of course it wouldn't help with source devices that just have issues with the whole concept of an AVR between the source and display.


And the other problem is that a new source handshake requires a new display side handshake as well and the Anthem also has a more complex set of options to deal with on the display side than most AVRs.

--Bob


----------



## mike1812

Lots of information here to digest (I've been reading this thread for the last 6 or so months). I realize some of this has been covered, but I only want verification of my understanding as stated below in (1).


I'm working with my CI on my home theater proposal. I originally wanted to go with the D2, but after adding all the numbers up, it's going over my pain threshold.


(1) My room is pretty dead and requires minimal room treatment. My understanding is that one of the largest differences between the AVM50 and D2 is the extra processor for ARC in the D2, which it appears I won't need. What else would I give up if I downgrade to the AVM50? I know there was a comparison chart of features on the Anthem site at one time, but now I can't find it.


(2) To further shave a few dollars, we are looking at the NAD M25 7 channel amp instead of the Anthem A5/A2. This amp would be driving Klipsch THX Ultra II speakers. Does anyone see any issues with the amp or speaker choice, paired with the AVM50?


Sorry if I'm dredging up the past or if this belongs in another thread. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mike1812* /forum/post/13327261
> 
> 
> Lots of information here to digest (I've been reading this thread for the last 6 or so months). I realize some of this has been covered, but I only want verification of my understanding as stated below in (1).
> 
> 
> I'm working with my CI on my home theater proposal. I originally wanted to go with the D2, but after adding all the numbers up, it's going over my pain threshold.
> 
> 
> (1) My room is pretty dead and requires minimal room treatment. My understanding is that one of the largest differences between the AVM50 and D2 is the extra processor for ARC in the D2, which it appears I won't need. What else would I give up if I downgrade to the AVM50? I know there was a comparison chart of features on the Anthem site at one time, but now I can't find it.



The AVM-50 has an identical video solution to the D2.


The D2 has a more "exotic" audio solution, including internal upsampling of audio to 192KHz before processing (and 192KHz DACs in the analog output stage), and including spare DSP processing power which is used for the ARC (room EQ) system. The D2 also has a better power supply.


The audio solution in the D2 is the same as the D1 (plus HDMI audio input). The audio solution in the AVM-50 is the same as the AVM-30 (again, plus HDMI audio input).


In addition, there are a scant few feature differences between the AVM-50 and the D2. Here's the comparison chart detailing them:

http://www.anthemAV.com/NewSitev2.0/...CompChart.html 


I'm sorry but I have nothing to offer on your amp/speakers question.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13327395
> 
> 
> I'm sorry but I have nothing to offer on your amp/speakers question.
> 
> --Bob



Bob's just being polite...we all know Klipsch sucks!










Just kidding. The truth is that when it comes to speakers, it is a VERY personal matter. My brother in law has a pretty nice HT with 110" screen etc. He recently bought new equipment, including receiver and speakers. He went with Klipsch speakers despite my personal opinion telling him I thought they were on the bright side...but I gave the same caveat I am here: it is a _personal choice_. He absolutely loves his Klipsch speakers, and has no regrets whatsoever.


The best advice is to demo as many speakers as you can.


Re the NAD amp, I am one of those people who don't think that the amp makes a huge difference in sound quality. NAD is a pretty good company. I would probably do a search or start a new thread asking about this amp, and whether people consider it bright, neutral, or warm. I would think that you do not want a bright amp combined with your Klipsch speakers.


My 2 cents.


Good luck, and HAVE FUN!


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/13326137
> 
> 
> Richard-
> 
> 
> I am using the latest WHQL Forceware drivers for Vista 32-bit. I think they are from Dec 07. I go into the nVidia control panel and pick the "change your desktop size" (I think that is what it's called) option. It has sliders that will allow you to bring in or extend the edges of the video display. When I use the HDMI connection, I get overscan. If I use the component connection I get underscan. I also can only get a 30HZ refresh rate w/component.
> 
> 
> As far as stability goes, component is completely stable when resolutions change for gaming. With HDMI there would be the occasional problem with the video dropping out. This would only occur when going through the AVM50. No problem when connected directly to the TV. With the component connection, the image seemed a bit softer, but I would just adjust the scaler option in the AVM50 to improve that so text was more legible.
> 
> 
> I have not tried watching any DVDs on my computer since I would much rather use my Denon 3910 for that and my PS3 for Blu-Ray.
> 
> 
> I also noticed that you are using a Logitech remote. I just got a Harmony One and it is very easy to setup. Programming macros is a piece of cake. I don't think you can access all the advanced controls of every remote without customization, but when things are setup properly those settings don't really need to be adjusted anyways. It allows my wife to touch a button that says play DVD and it sets everything. She is very happy with that. She was not a fan of my Pronto Pro, but that was probably my fault for not spending enough time tweaking it for super simple use (very time consuming process).



Yeah everything you are saying jives with what I have seen. I think I have the same version of the forceware (except running on XP ATM). I haven't tries that menu to reduce the image to remove the overscan through the D2, but since I plan on using the PC connected directly via HDMI 1 it's not a big issues.


I am of course a curious little critter and will play around with it eventually. Maybe when I try connecting my laptop I will get into the settings in more detail.


As for the Harmony I have it working quite well after some very strange issues with the D2 inputs. After trying every troubleshooting option available through the software (even updated to latest 7.4 SW and Firmware just to be sure) I simply could not get the remote to work the input selections of the D2. What was even stranger was that a couple worked while most did not hahaa.


Eventually I simply recreated the device and like magic this new on worked fine right of the bat. I then had to redo all my activities and swap in the new D2 Device, but at least it works now.


The only remaining items to complete the full integration is to create and integrate the macros (or try out the listed TV2-4 etc the new software shows to complete that setup. The only other issue is that for some reason when I select the Sirius SAT Radio activity it does not leave the Sirius SAT Radio device as the active remote device


I.E.: It correctly activates it and does all the switching (even puts the Cable box and TV on like Bob has set up as it often will watch sports like hockey with music in the background etc), but when everything is done there is no active device being controlled by the remote let alone the correct SAT radio one. I am sure this is a quick tweak through the activity setup which I will try in a bit. Note: Selecting the Serius SAT Radio device at this point works fine and I can fully control it. It's just not left as the controlling device at the end of the activity cycle for some reason.


Where do I go to setup the Macros / assign a macro to a button/activity? I looked around in the software a bit and while I am sure its painfully obvious, I must have missed it. Trying to "Learn" the macro simply assigns the first button pressed as you would expect. I now have several custom commands that all turn THX ON or OFF hahaa. I kill me. Life is an adventure, you can either enjoy it, or have it enjoy you ;-)


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## mike1812

Thanks for the link Bob - that's what I was looking for. Since I'm not using this for music at all (BD, HD, and cable tv/movie watching), I'm probably headed the AVM50 route. However, my dealer is a nice guy and has said I can upgrade within a "reasonable" time (to be defined in paperwork) to the D2 if I feel like the AVM50 is not up to the task (i.e., he'll give me full credit on the 50).


Yeah, I wasn't sure if the amp really made a difference. I've been a receiver guy all my life, so first journey into separates. Dealer has demo room setup with Ultra II's and the A2/A5--I liked this combo very much. He originally proposed very $$$ Martin Logans because he thought I would do critical music listening in the room as well. I'll be lucky to have time to watch a movie 2x a week. I'll see if he can connect the NAD in his demo so I can see if there's any difference. I'll do a search elsewhere on the amp as well.


Thanks again to both! I'll let you know when I've pulled the trigger so I can get my bouncies!!!


----------



## zombyw00f

Sorry if this is something totally obvious, but I can't seem to figure it out... How do you have your TV display the setup menus? I have only been able to directly access them on the D2. And when I do, the external display goes black. Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zombyw00f* /forum/post/13328418
> 
> 
> Sorry if this is something totally obvious, but I can't seem to figure it out... How do you have your TV display the setup menus? I have only been able to directly access them on the D2. And when I do, the external display goes black. Thanks!



I presume normal video sources are working OK through the D2 for you, correct?


You may have a hardware fault in the S-video circuit in your D2 that is used to display those Setup menus.


First, go to Setup / Displays & Timeout and make sure the settings in there match the defaults (see the menu picture in Section 3.12 of the manual).


If you still can't get the Setup menu to show, try changing Setup / Displays & Timeout / Main OS Color to something other than blue just in case your display is having trouble syncing with a blue background.


If that doesn't help, you should contact Anthem tech support. If you have an S-video source device that you can try as input into the Anthem, it will help them to know if video from that source gets through to your display OK through the Anthem since that would use the same S-video circuit in the D2. Watch the S-video source for, say, 20 minutes to see if it stays stable or if the D2 loses it and mutes the video output.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

I recently loaded v1.29 from 1.21b. Made sure no HDMI inputs/outputs were connected to supply an active data stream while upgrading. All went well until I was making some changes to the setup. After I saved it and went back to video, I tried to return to setup to get only a blank screen. I tried anything I could think of including loading factory defaults with no change. I contacted Nick, but after exchanging emails with answers to his questions, I had no final reply.

Being impatient, I decided to reload 1.29k. That fixed the setup menu problem. HOWEVER, I now go to a snow image upon each input change. The mute, appears not to be working. Come to think about it, the data I saved just before I lost the setup menu was changing the display to mute to gray as per the suggestion in the upgrade remarks.


I looking at others' comments and notes from Anthem, it appears that all D2's are not accepting upgrades in the same way, causing them to act up differently. I wonder if it would be wise to have the software flush the system prior to an upgrade or at least saving your setting with the Live view software and setting the unit to the installer and factory defaults before the upgrade.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

netroamer,

I haven't seen the instructions that come with V1.29k, but recent instructions have, I believe, included the following:


* Save User Settings


* Reload Factory Defaults


* Do the firmware upgrade install


* Reload Factory Defaults again (insures the new factory defaults are in place)


* Restore User Settings

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

Bob,


You're right about loading the factory defaults before the upgrade, I missed that. Loading them again after upgrade is not included, but not a bad idea.


Thanks,


John


----------



## zombyw00f




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13328505
> 
> 
> I presume normal video sources are working OK through the D2 for you, correct?
> 
> 
> You may have a hardware fault in the S-video circuit in your D2 that is used to display those Setup menus.
> 
> 
> First, go to Setup / Displays & Timeout and make sure the settings in there match the defaults (see the menu picture in Section 3.12 of the manual).
> 
> 
> If you still can't get the Setup menu to show, try changing Setup / Displays & Timeout / Main OS Color to something other than blue just in case your display is having trouble syncing with a blue background.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't help, you should contact Anthem tech support. If you have an S-video source device that you can try as input into the Anthem, it will help them to know if video from that source gets through to your display OK through the Anthem since that would use the same S-video circuit in the D2. Watch the S-video source for, say, 20 minutes to see if it stays stable or if the D2 loses it and mutes the video output.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, but none of that seemed to work for me. I do see the Anthem logo when the D2 boots up, as well as the overlays when I change volume or something else. Video does work fine with all sources. It would appear that the D2 is on VIDEO MUTE because when I change that color in the setup, the screen responds to that.


Is there anything else I may be missing here?


----------



## zombyw00f

One other question: If I am using the ARC-1, do I need to setup any of the stuff in the Speaker area, or will that all be done automatically?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zombyw00f* /forum/post/13328736
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, but none of that seemed to work for me. I do see the Anthem logo when the D2 boots up, as well as the overlays when I change volume or something else. Video does work fine with all sources. It would appear that the D2 is on VIDEO MUTE because when I change that color in the setup, the screen responds to that.
> 
> 
> Is there anything else I may be missing here?



Not that I can think of.


We've had about 6 reports in this thread of D2's and AVM-50's losing the functionality of the S-video circuit into the scaler, which is also used by the portion of the system that generates the On-screen Setup display. Typically this is accompanied by inability to get stable video from any S-video source device as well.


The character generator that produces the On-Screen volume and status displays is a different circuit from the one that produces the On-Screen Setup menu. And the circuit that produces the On-Screen Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) is yet another circuit.


You should give Anthem tech support a call. It is likely your D2 needs factory service to fix this, but MAYBE they've come up with a software fix by now (we've had no reports of such here though).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zombyw00f* /forum/post/13328944
> 
> 
> One other question: If I am using the ARC-1, do I need to setup any of the stuff in the Speaker area, or will that all be done automatically?



I don't have my ARC yet, but the reports here are that you *DO* have to do some of the audio setup stuff manually even if you are using ARC. Check the manual and look for text added under the picture of the menu for each of the Setup menus dealing with audio. For example, apparently you *DO* have to manually enter the Listener Position (speaker distance) information manually.


Whether or not you HAVE TO do such manual Setup steps, if I were doing this anew, I think I would do a full Setup without ARC and then run the ARC stuff. That makes it easier to turn ARC on and off for each source and hear the difference.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13328600
> 
> 
> I recently loaded v1.29 from 1.21b. Made sure no HDMI inputs/outputs were connected to supply an active data stream while upgrading. All went well until I was making some changes to the setup. After I saved it and went back to video, I tried to return to setup to get only a blank screen. I tried anything I could think of including loading factory defaults with no change. I contacted Nick, but after exchanging emails with answers to his questions, I had no final reply.
> 
> Being impatient, I decided to reload 1.29k. That fixed the setup menu problem. HOWEVER, I now go to a snow image upon each input change. The mute, appears not to be working. Come to think about it, the data I saved just before I lost the setup menu was changing the display to mute to gray as per the suggestion in the upgrade remarks.
> 
> 
> I looking at others' comments and notes from Anthem, it appears that all D2's are not accepting upgrades in the same way, causing them to act up differently. I wonder if it would be wise to have the software flush the system prior to an upgrade or at least saving your setting with the Live view software and setting the unit to the installer and factory defaults before the upgrade.



I have 1.29k loaded too, and I am having the same problem. I have exchanged several e-mails with Anthem Tech Support without a direct answer to fix the problem. I just received another e-mail from them yesterday, and they want me to send my D2 back in. I'm really heistant to do that because I just got it in January, and I am not ready to part with it. I am trying to wait until 1.3 is available, with the ARC, and hope that will fix the problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ninja12,

Since your unit is so new, maybe you can talk them into swapping it for a replacement D2, or at least a loner.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13329541
> 
> 
> ninja12,
> 
> Since your unit is so new, maybe you can talk them into swapping it for a replacement D2, or at least a loner.
> 
> --Bob



That's a good idea. I will send them another e-mail and see what they say. Thanks for the good idea. I will let you know what they say.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13329454
> 
> 
> I have 1.29k loaded too, and I am having the same problem. I have exchanged several e-mails with Anthem Tech Support without a direct answer to fix the problem. I just received another e-mail from them yesterday, and they want me to send my D2 back in. I'm really heistant to do that because I just got it in January, and I am not ready to part with it. I am trying to wait until 1.3 is available, with the ARC, and hope that will fix the problem.



I loaded 1.29k today, for the third time, after Bob's comment about missing the resetting to factory default. So far, all is working properly.


For what it's worth, here is the sequence I used.


1.) Shut off the D2 using the rear power switch.


2.) Removed all HDMI inputs and output.


3.) Plugged-in the RS-232 connector.


4.) Powered up unit from rear.


5.) Used Live View to turn on unit, get current settings and save.


6.) Used remote to save current settings via setup menu.


7.) Restored Factory Defaults.


8.) Shut off unit via Front Panel.


9.) Cycled on/off rear power switch.


10.) Uploaded 129.k


11.) Turned on unit via Front Panel and after 30 sec. shut down.


12.) Turned on unit via Front Panel and loaded Factory Defaults, then loaded my saved settings.


13.) Opened Live View and loaded my saved settings and uploaded to D2.


14.) Turned of unit via Front Panel and shut down rear power.


15.) Removed Rs-232 connector and plugged-in HDMI Inputs and output.


16.) Turned on Rear Switch and powered up D2.


Maybe this will work for others.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13330141
> 
> 
> I loaded 1.29k today, for the third time, after Bob's comment about missing the resetting to factory default. So far, all is working properly.
> 
> 
> For what it's worth, here is the sequence I used.
> 
> 
> 1.) Shut off the D2 using the rear power switch.
> 
> 
> 2.) Removed all HDMI inputs and output.
> 
> 
> 3.) Plugged-in the RS-232 connector.
> 
> 
> 4.) Powered up unit from rear.
> 
> 
> 5.) Used Live View to turn on unit, get current settings and save.
> 
> 
> 6.) Used remote to save current settings via setup menu.
> 
> 
> 7.) Restored Factory Defaults.
> 
> 
> 8.) Shut off unit via Front Panel.
> 
> 
> 9.) Cycled on/off rear power switch.
> 
> 
> 10.) Uploaded 129.k
> 
> 
> 11.) Turned on unit via Front Panel and after 30 sec. shut down.
> 
> 
> 12.) Turned on unit via Front Panel and loaded Factory Defaults, then loaded my saved settings.
> 
> 
> 13.) Opened Live View and loaded my saved settings and uploaded to D2.
> 
> 
> 14.) Turned of unit via Front Panel and shut down rear power.
> 
> 
> 15.) Removed Rs-232 connector and plugged-in HDMI Inputs and output.
> 
> 
> 16.) Turned on Rear Switch and powered up D2.
> 
> 
> Maybe this will work for others.



Wow










Did you pack a lunch for that? Glad it worked, but that is quite the process. I am wondering how much it would cost to simply trade in my FW 1.2 model for a newer one with the latest FW already installed hahaa.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13331375
> 
> 
> Wow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you pack a lunch for that? Glad it worked, but that is quite the process. I am wondering how much it would cost to simply trade in my FW 1.2 model for a newer one with the latest FW already installed hahaa.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Ten minutes, but you have to be on a sugar high!


----------



## metallicafreak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13329336
> 
> 
> Not that I can think of.
> 
> 
> We've had about 6 reports in this thread of D2's and AVM-50's losing the functionality of the S-video circuit into the scaler, which is also used by the portion of the system that generates the On-screen Setup display. Typically this is accompanied by inability to get stable video from any S-video source device as well.
> 
> 
> The character generator that produces the On-Screen volume and status displays is a different circuit from the one that produces the On-Screen Setup menu. And the circuit that produces the On-Screen Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) is yet another circuit.
> 
> 
> You should give Anthem tech support a call. It is likely your D2 needs factory service to fix this, but MAYBE they've come up with a software fix by now (we've had no reports of such here though).
> 
> --Bob




I reported the same problem several pages back. Let me know what the resolution is because I really DONT want to send in my unit unless I have to.

FREAK!


----------



## Boston_Chad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *metallicafreak* /forum/post/13333088
> 
> 
> I reported the same problem several pages back. Let me know what the resolution is because I really DONT want to send in my unit unless I have to.
> 
> FREAK!



I'm having the OSD problem as well. It was working fine even with my custom resolution until I porked the config (my own fault) and had reset to factory defaults to revcover. Now that I've got my config back up and running the OSD is toast. Now for the really weird part, if I even look at the config for video 2-4 the D2 mutes HDMI video and asks for an HDCP compliant monitor (which of course I have). The only way to get video back is to go back to reset to factory again. Still no OSD.


My dealer said he had seen similar problems and they have been fixed by re-installing the software as noted above. I've not yet taken that step as my family's patience is wearing thin on this rainy weekend


----------



## PooperScooper

There may be a separate OSD issue, but the s-video "death" has been fixed by unit or video board replacement unless something has changed in the last couple weeks. It would be nice (for Anthem, too) if the s-video issue is software problems.


larry


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13330141
> 
> 
> I loaded 1.29k today, for the third time, after Bob's comment about missing the resetting to factory default. So far, all is working properly.
> 
> 
> For what it's worth, here is the sequence I used.
> 
> 
> 1.) Shut off the D2 using the rear power switch.
> 
> 
> 2.) Removed all HDMI inputs and output.
> 
> 
> 3.) Plugged-in the RS-232 connector.
> 
> 
> 4.) Powered up unit from rear.
> 
> 
> 5.) Used Live View to turn on unit, get current settings and save.
> 
> 
> 6.) Used remote to save current settings via setup menu.
> 
> 
> 7.) Restored Factory Defaults.
> 
> 
> 8.) Shut off unit via Front Panel.
> 
> 
> 9.) Cycled on/off rear power switch.
> 
> 
> 10.) Uploaded 129.k
> 
> 
> 11.) Turned on unit via Front Panel and after 30 sec. shut down.
> 
> 
> 12.) Turned on unit via Front Panel and loaded Factory Defaults, then loaded my saved settings.
> 
> 
> 13.) Opened Live View and loaded my saved settings and uploaded to D2.
> 
> 
> 14.) Turned of unit via Front Panel and shut down rear power.
> 
> 
> 15.) Removed Rs-232 connector and plugged-in HDMI Inputs and output.
> 
> 
> 16.) Turned on Rear Switch and powered up D2.
> 
> 
> Maybe this will work for others.



I followed the steps above, and I still get the black screen.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

What is the wait time on a new D2? I am thinking of just getting a new one with ARC vs waiting and having problems with installing the new sofware that some are experiencing.


----------



## metallicafreak

FYI I am still on v1.2 that came with my D2 in August 2007. Should I upgrde the firmware?


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *metallicafreak* /forum/post/13335785
> 
> 
> FYI I am still on v1.2 that came with my D2 in August 2007. Should I upgrde the firmware?



Here is the list of items upgraded from 1.20 to 1.30. Judge for yourself.


CHANGE LIST


v1.30:


1. (Statement D2 only) Added room correction - enabling this feature requires ARC-1 microphone kit.


2. More HDMI, HDCP, and Macrovision related changes to make largest possible number of sources compatible.


3. Number of video-out configurations is increased to four.


4. The video muted background color can now be set independently of the setup menu background color. Recommended: Set video mute to gray to prevent blue screen when switching input and/or resolution changes from native-output cable box.


5. Fixed crackling problem exhibited in some units when multichannel PCM input was played.


6. 2-line display shows input resolution in upper line and volume in lower line.


7. Menus 6 and 7 show renamed source names beside factory source names.


8. Enabled HDMI audio-in when no HDMI display is connected.


9. Fixed Component2 passthrough mode.


10. Improvements to installer stability with various PC and hardware combinations.


----------



## metallicafreak

Where do I get it? Statementdotanthemdotcom only shows v1.11

Freak!


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *metallicafreak* /forum/post/13336749
> 
> 
> Where do I get it? Statementdotanthemdotcom only shows v1.11
> 
> Freak!



send an email to anthem and ask them for the latest firmware 129k

it should nave been 4


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13333941
> 
> 
> I followed the steps above, and I still get the black screen.



I have had video issues with 1.29 j and k (generally, no video from a cold start until I go through several power cycles). I have spoken a few times with Anthem and they are working on a fix for the next software release. Try rolling back to 1.21d and see if that gets rid of your blank screen. My system is worthless using 1.29k and is rock solid using 1.21d.


One thing I learned the hard way is that if you save your settings under 1.29 and roll back to 1.21, your saved settings will be lost and you will have to re-input everything manually.


Good luck.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13335451
> 
> 
> What is the wait time on a new D2? I am thinking of just getting a new one with ARC vs waiting and having problems with installing the new sofware that some are experiencing.



For reference, my last order took about 7-10 biz days.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13335451
> 
> 
> What is the wait time on a new D2? I am thinking of just getting a new one with ARC vs waiting and having problems with installing the new sofware that some are experiencing.



I hope someone from the company appreciates how anxious we are to get our hand's on an ARC-1. Its quite annoying to know that they are out there for new buyers who waited to see if the D2 was going to be a success before they purchased it, but not for the people who bought early and helped make it a success!


This probably sounds more bitter than I am, I'm just very eager!


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13335451
> 
> 
> What is the wait time on a new D2? I am thinking of just getting a new one with ARC vs waiting and having problems with installing the new sofware that some are experiencing.



Mine took 4 business days three weeks ago. Since they ship from Buffalo and you are in NY, your wait would be shorter.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13339683
> 
> 
> I have had video issues with 1.29 j and k (generally, no video from a cold start until I go through several power cycles). I have spoken a few times with Anthem and they are working on a fix for the next software release. Try rolling back to 1.21d and see if that gets rid of your blank screen. My system is worthless using 1.29k and is rock solid using 1.21d.
> 
> 
> One thing I learned the hard way is that if you save your settings under 1.29 and roll back to 1.21, your saved settings will be lost and you will have to re-input everything manually.
> 
> 
> Good luck.



For those of you thinking of upgrading you should contact Anthem first.


If you have an "older" D2/AVM 50 then there is a distinct possibility that the new software might create more issues than you're willing to tolerate. Anthem changes the internals every so often which in turn makes it more difficult for them to have a "bug free" updates for all the D2/AVM 50s.


For some reason I remember Nick telling me there may be issues with March 2007 and older D2/AVM 50s but I can't be certain.


I guess that's why they call it beta.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13340713
> 
> 
> 
> I guess that's why they call it beta.



Not that I disagree with you - but regression testing

should be performed by any firm before releasing

any FW update.


That regression testing should cover all the platform

variations. If not - then it should not be released

even as a BETA.


That is my TWO CENT Opinion - that no one asked for


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13340749
> 
> 
> Not that I disagree with you - but regression testing
> 
> should be performed by any firm before releasing
> 
> any FW update.
> 
> 
> That regression testing should cover all the platform
> 
> variations. If not - then it should not be released
> 
> even as a BETA.
> 
> 
> That is my TWO CENT Opinion - that no one asked for



It is my opinion that your opinion is always welcome.










As far as software releases, beta or otherwise, marketing etc..., I'm not even going to comment. Otherwise I think half this forum would be on me like white on rice.










Cheers.


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *metallicafreak* /forum/post/13335785
> 
> 
> FYI I am still on v1.2 that came with my D2 in August 2007. Should I upgrde the firmware?



V1.2 does not have the clock timing changes that fix the mch PCM "crackling" problem. The crackling can appear playing HDM discs with PCM coming from the players. The easiest way I could reproduce it if it existed was to play a mch SACD from an Oppo and listen to the center speaker. I had 3 (count 'em) D2's that had the problem including the one I have now. V1.21d (and higher), IIRC, fixes this issue. Some units are more obnoxious with the crackling than others.


larry


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13341712
> 
> 
> It is my opinion that your opinion is always welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as software releases, beta or otherwise, marketing etc..., I'm not even going to comment. Otherwise I think half this forum would be on me like white on rice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers.



Hi Jim:


I think Anthem has the best support in the consumer

electronics industry - but that only means we hold

them to the highest standard







--- Therefore more

testing is better - because they make the FW available

to non-technical customers who can get themselves

in trouble too easily


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13342099
> 
> 
> Hi Jim:
> 
> 
> I think Anthem has the best support in the consumer
> 
> electronics industry - but that only means we hold
> 
> them to the highest standard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- Therefore more
> 
> testing is better - because they make the FW available
> 
> to non-technical customers who can get themselves
> 
> in trouble too easily



From my personal experience I would say you are correct drhankz.

And when all is solved I'll tell you my experience. It's going to have a very happy ending.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13344171
> 
> 
> From my personal experience I would say you are correct drhankz.
> 
> And when all is solved I'll tell you my experience. It's going to have a very happy ending.



THEN ---

Consider me LUCKY - I have one of the very first

D2s. I upgraded from version 1.0 and many versions

finally getting to 1.11 and then stopped there over

18 months ago.


All my gear - and I have some new stuff that I just

added in the last month - works 100%. Therefore

I avoid any further upgrades - even though I have

access to all the Beta releases - just because I

don't want to rock the boat. My theater is too

important to me to screw it up and my D2 is way

way way out of warranty.


My experience has been NOTHING BUT GREAT.


----------



## BruiserG

Hello All,


I'm an avid reader of this column, proud D2 owner, and first time submitter. I'm looking for some insight on speaker selection and am hoping to hear your experiences. I am looking into purchasing a new set of speakers (L C R SL SR). Not touching my subwoofer for now. I don't listen to anything analog except my XM radio which I have the D2 digitize anyway. I'm about 50/50 music and movies. Currently leaning towards the PSB synchronies, but haven't done any serious trials as yet. What I'm interested in is your experience with Large fronts vs. Small (bookshelf) fronts specifically with the D2. Given its base management skills, do you find that there is any significant benefit to having large fronts if nothing is pass through analogue? I guess my biggest concern is on movies - and having (if ever so slightly) unmatched sound from my fronts and my center. Seems to me that matching the fronts to center as close as possible and letting the sub do all of the low stuff would provide a much more seemless experience, and that there isn't even all that much to be gained on digital music by letting the D2 handle the base. Has anyone tried one vs the other on the D2? Any thoughts or recommendations? Your insight is appreciated!


Thanks!


----------



## BruiserG

Oh, and the latest from my dealer, who has contacted Anthem about my ARC-1, is that they still have not released pricing or availability info. But I'm first in line and the first person he's going to call when he finds out. Sounds like at least a few of you are getting a little farther with your dealers, but I'll keep you posted if I hear anything.


----------



## RROSEN

Your ARC-1 dealler inquiry isn't that bad.


When I emailed my dealer the eMail I got back gave me the unnerving impression that I brought the whole thing to their attention. While this couldn't really be the case, they basically said " We have no info and haven't heard anything. I will let you know... "


I am awash in warm fuzzy feelings hahaa. I am sure I am moments away from obtaining the ARC-1










Cheers,


Richard


----------



## slots1

I ordered my Thiel 3.7's to go with my D2 and cannot wait for that and the ARC-1.

The grapevine price is now about $495.


Also, still using 1.10 from way back in June. Also, no problems. I will wait until ARC arrives and then update.


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/13341728
> 
> 
> V1.2 does not have the clock timing changes that fix the mch PCM "crackling" problem. The crackling can appear playing HDM discs with PCM coming from the players. The easiest way I could reproduce it if it existed was to play a mch SACD from an Oppo and listen to the center speaker. I had 3 (count 'em) D2's that had the problem including the one I have now. V1.21d (and higher), IIRC, fixes this issue. Some units are more obnoxious with the crackling than others.



That's very good to know, thanks for the info. I'm a new D2 owner (v1.2) and I have the MPCM crackling problem intermittently produced in my center and surround channels. Would like to fix this asap with a firmware upgrade. Given the info regarding some video troubles with v1.29j and k, would you recommend that I upgrade to v1.21d to resolve the crackling issue and then just wait for v1.3 (and ARC) to be released before doing another upgrade?


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13348268
> 
> 
> That's very good to know, thanks for the info. I'm a new D2 owner (v1.2) and I have the MPCM crackling problem intermittently produced in my center and surround channels. Would like to fix this asap with a firmware upgrade. Given the info regarding some video troubles with v1.29j and k, would you recommend that I upgrade to v1.21d to resolve the crackling issue and then just wait for v1.3 (and ARC) to be released before doing another upgrade?



First, I would try the latest available. I use 1.29j with no issues except for the occasional Oppo screech which is, of course, specific to the Oppo 970. Make sure you save your 1.2 settings, otherwise you're in for a redo of the setup.


larry


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/13348880
> 
> 
> First, I would try the latest available. I use 1.29j with no issues except for the occasional Oppo screech which is, of course, specific to the Oppo 970. Make sure you save your 1.2 settings, otherwise you're in for a redo of the setup.



Ok thanks, I don't have an Oppo, using an XA2 and PS3 so I'll follow the firmware upgrade steps outlined earlier and go for v1.29j.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/13348880
> 
> 
> First, I would try the latest available. I use 1.29j with no issues except for the occasional Oppo screech which is, of course, specific to the Oppo 970. Make sure you save your 1.2 settings, otherwise you're in for a redo of the setup.
> 
> 
> larry



Has anyone reported the Oppo screech with the 980H? I just ordered one and there already is enough screeching in my home (3 young kids).


----------



## PooperScooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13349946
> 
> 
> Has anyone reported the Oppo screech with the 980H? I just ordered one and there already is enough screeching in my home (3 young kids).



I haven't kept track. As mentioned earlier, I do know Anthem has a number of 970s, don't know about 980s.



larry


----------



## benleeys

Can anybody here give me a clue as to why my D2 output the blue ramp looking like this at 720p/60 over component connections? No problem at 480p. Grey, green and red are fine too at all other resolutions.


Thanks

Ben


----------



## Shrike645

I have an OPPO 980H and have heard no screaching (no kids)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Benleeys,

That's pretty severe. I can't think of any setting mistake you might have made that would produce that. The fact that it varies vertically in the region where you are losing signal also eliminates common mistakes in setting black levels.


Your best bet is to hook up the D2 to a different TV at Component 720p and see if you get the same thing. You won't need any sources, or speaker connections to do this -- just do what you are already doing using the D2's internally generated test pattern.


This will help isolate whether the problem is your D2's output or your TV's input. I think it will turn out to be that your TV's input has a problem properly handling the Blue input signal at 720p (simply because I can't think of a way to get that error in the D2 given that the D2 output works OK at other output resolutions).


ETA: Also try this test with the D2 and your TV but with everything else disconnected from the D2 and the TV -- EVERYTHING except for the 2 power cords and the 3 Component cables between them. This will help eliminate the possibility that you have a previously unsuspected "ground loop" which is sending interference power into the TV and screwing up its input electronics.


Also try swapping the Blue cable and the Red cable (at just the D2 end or at just the TV end) to see if the problem moves with the cable. I.e., whether the Blue chart (now showing Red on the TV) still has the problem or whether the Red chart (now showing blue on the TV) has the problem. If the Red chart (now showing blue on the TV) has the problem then that points to the TV input. But if the Blue chart (now showing red on the TV) has the problem then it is either the Anthem output or something faulty in the cable itself (try swapping out the cable).

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/13347832
> 
> 
> I ordered my Thiel 3.7's to go with my D2 and cannot wait for that and the ARC-1.
> 
> The grapevine price is now about $495.
> 
> 
> Also, still using 1.10 from way back in June. Also, no problems. I will wait until ARC arrives and then update.



$500 now? I hope that is incorrect. Maybe some healthy dealer markup there.


Originally I had heard $300 which seemed very reasonable. Even $400 isn't so bad and if it delivers on what it seems to then it's worth it, but even for me (who hasn't met a dollar he couldn't spend fast) $500 is really starting to push it.


Your creeping up on 8-10% of the total cost of the unit for ARC-1. I am sure there is a significant investment on Anthems part in developing it, but at a certain price point they are going to go from selling 100,000 @ $300 to 60,000 @$400 to 1,000 at $500 or something.


Hopefully it is available at a reasonable price (fair for them and us) sooner rather than later. Folks are going to start getting a little sensitive about timing and pricing I think.


Anyway, as others have stated, I agree that they offer products, service and support second to none so we tend to hold them to a pretty high standard and are very appreciative of being able to do so. I am still confident that the whole ARC-1 thing will work out well.


Can someone remind me what the recent price increase on the D2's were and if the ARC-1 was the only real change/update? If that is the case then the delta would be a logical place to estimate what the ARC-1 upgrade price will hit around.


Hopefully there isn't a big premium for faithful existing D2 owners to upgrade if it turns out its easier to setup the ARC-1 during manufacturing than after market.


Cheers,


Richard.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/13351679
> 
> 
> I have an OPPO 980H and have heard no screaching (no kids)



I have an OPPO 970 with a D2 FW: v 1.2 and no screeches (also no kids).


Cheers,


Richard


PS. Seems to me that we need to do some more testing with Kids and OPPO's to see if this is a solid trend










Cheers,


Richard


----------



## rkphelps

I own a D1 and don't plan on making it a D2 because I am not interested in the Video Scalar. Does anyone know if I will have problems in the future not having HDMI to handle the audio signal? Will some future surround sounds require HDMI and not work on optical or coax connections because of bandwidth issues or some kind of proprietary protection handshaking? If so has anyone heard if anthem plans on offering a HDMI connection only upgrade for the D1 (possibly HDMI 1.3)? Thanks Rob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13352196
> 
> 
> Can someone remind me what the recent price increase on the D2's were and if the ARC-1 was the only real change/update? If that is the case then the delta would be a logical place to estimate what the ARC-1 upgrade price will hit around.



The price increase also needs to cover Anthem on cost increases and the deteriorating US dollar. With no price increase, exchange rate alone would have resulted in Anthem getting 15% less C$ for each unit sold today in the US than they did on 1/1/07. By that logic, their price increase of $700 ( link ) recovers less than 10% so ARC-1 is free with the new units.


Another way to look at it is the price of the AVM-50 went up $200 and the D2 $700, so you could conclude that ARC in the D2 was priced into the increase at $500.


I look at it as having paid for most of ARC when I paid an extra $2000 (list) for the D2 instead of the AVM-50 to get that second DSP. The extra $$$ were justified by Anthem more on the promise of future enhancements (ARC) than the limited differentiation that the 2nd DSP provides today, i.e. DTS 96/24..


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/13354587
> 
> 
> I own a D1 and don't plan on making it a D2 because I am not interested in the Video Scalar. Does anyone know if I will have problems in the future not having HDMI to handle the audio signal? Will some future surround sounds require HDMI and not work on optical or coax connections because of bandwidth issues or some kind of proprietary protection handshaking? If so has anyone heard if anthem plans on offering a HDMI connection only upgrade for the D1 (possibly HDMI 1.3)? Thanks Rob



I am sure others can add a lot more detail, but there are already some audio options that you can only get via HDMI in the D2.


An example of this would be the 5.1 uncompressed PCM from Blu-Ray movies. To the best of my knowledge this and the other HI Def Audio options such as Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master HD are only available through HDMI and possibly Analogue, but then you may end up with a many too one analogue 5.1 connection switching dealy (not really a big deal, but maybe not ideal for some).


For many DD 5.1 and DTS 5.1 are more than enough. The only question I would have in your case is that since you have a D1 instead of an AVM50 or whatever you seem to already have made a choice for higher audio fidelity.


What if anything you may not be able to get between the Analogue and the HDMI I am not entirely sure so will not guess as there are some much more knowledgeable folks here who can address that (and correct all the other stuff I said if need be hahaa)


Cheers,


Richard.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13351382
> 
> 
> Can anybody here give me a clue as to why my D2 output the blue ramp looking like this at 720p/60 over component connections? No problem at 480p. Grey, green and red are fine too at all other resolutions.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ben



One thing that you can try as you are using component is to swap the blue cable with one of the other (e.g. red or green). If the defect follow the switch then the D2 must be sending the wrong signal otherwise it could be your tv.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13355567
> 
> 
> To the best of my knowledge this and the other HI Def Audio options such as Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master HD are only available through HDMI and possibly Analogue..
> 
> For many DD 5.1 and DTS 5.1 are more than enough.
> 
> Richard.



Coax and Optical do not have the bandwidth th pass DD+, TrueHD, DTS-HD\\MA. With any Anthem pre\\pro you'll need HDMI OR analog in to get them. For analog you'll need a player with analog outs of course.


RRosen, I realize your comment re: DD and DTS being "more than enough" is likely an offhand one, but I have to strongly disagree here.

Once you've been exposed to a good DD+ or TrueHD or LPCM soundtrack, DD just doesn't cut it, imo.

For me, the advanced audio in HDM is just a hair less important than the video.


----------



## Jim E.

OK guys,


You heard it here first. Contact your local dealer and you should be able to place the order for the Anthem Room Correction (ARC-1 Kit).


If your dealer is not aware of this yet please be patient with them. The notice just came out.


$399/kit retail.


Cheers,


Jim


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13360062
> 
> 
> OK guys,
> 
> 
> You heard it here first. Contact your local dealer and you should be able to place the order for the Anthem Room Correction (ARC-1 Kit).
> 
> 
> If your dealer is not aware of this yet please be patient with them. The notice just came out.
> 
> 
> $399/kit retail.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Jim



Jim,

The timing of this makes some sense as updated ARC software more efficient at obtaining the serial number from the D2 was posted on the Anthem tech site late yesterday.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13351739
> 
> 
> Benleeys,
> 
> ...... Also try swapping the Blue cable and the Red cable (at just the D2 end or at just the TV end) to see if the problem moves with the cable. I.e., whether the Blue chart (now showing Red on the TV) still has the problem or whether the Red chart (now showing blue on the TV) has the problem. If the Red chart (now showing blue on the TV) has the problem then that points to the TV input. But if the Blue chart (now showing red on the TV) has the problem then it is either the Anthem output or something faulty in the cable itself (try swapping out the cable).
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


As suggested, I swapped the blue cable with the red at the D2 end. The blue ramp (now showing red) has the problem. See comparision pics.


Next I swapped also the Projector end (situation now same as swapping cables). The blue ramp has the problem.


So, it looks like the Anthem has the problem?


Ben


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/13355947
> 
> 
> One thing that you can try as you are using component is to swap the blue cable with one of the other (e.g. red or green). If the defect follow the switch then the D2 must be sending the wrong signal otherwise it could be your tv.



I swapped cables and the defect followed the switch, ie blue ramp still defective. See my reply to Bob above.


Thanks

Ben


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13360774
> 
> 
> I swapped cables and the defect followed the switch, ie blue ramp still defective. See my reply to Bob above.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ben



Perhaps I missed it in one of your other posts, but, is there any negative effect to your normal video? These patterns are software/firmware generated, and I'm wondering if a reload of your current firmware or an upgrade if you prefer would cure the problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13360695
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> As suggested, I swapped the blue cable with the red at the D2 end. The blue ramp (now showing red) has the problem. See comparision pics.
> 
> 
> Next I swapped also the Projector end (situation now same as swapping cables). The blue ramp has the problem.
> 
> 
> So, it looks like the Anthem has the problem?
> 
> 
> Ben



Yes. I don't quite know how the Anthem could fail in just this way, but it certainly seems likely that the problem is in the Anthem.


It MAY just be in the circuit that's generating that test pattern.


As I recall from an older post you made on this, you are NOT seeing problems if you view a blue ramp chart generated by a source device (e.g., when playing a calibration DVD) correct?


In any case, the next step is to call Anthem tech support and let them know what you've done to isolate the issue to being inside the Anthem unit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13360318
> 
> 
> Jim,
> 
> The timing of this makes some sense as updated ARC software more efficient at obtaining the serial number from the D2 was posted on the Anthem tech site late yesterday.



What's the version # of that new software? I ask because I'm following a PM discussion of a problem in the ARC processing (not install -- the processing itself) that's supposedly fixed by a new software release this week.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13362421
> 
> 
> What's the version # of that new software? I ask because I'm following a PM discussion of a problem in the ARC processing (not install -- the processing itself) that's supposedly fixed by a new software release this week.
> 
> --Bob



1.30a


Some info we received from Nick:


"Since the ARC release, there have been some tweaks in how the PC gets the serial number from the unit and in setting of levels and crossovers. You may need to turn up your subwoofer's level control while running the latest

- we had to lower the test signal level since it was high enough to activate the automatic gain control on some subwoofers, resulting in low sub output after measurement.


This version also had changes made towards Vista. If you're using Vista, you can run this version without setting XP compatibility mode."


Jim


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks Jim! Yes, V1.30a is the version that's supposed to deal with the noise issue I'm following.


By the way, I just looked and the Anthem public download page is still showing V1.11 for software and V1.1x for the manual. Deep sigh...

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13362683
> 
> 
> Thanks Jim! Yes, V1.30a is the version that's supposed to deal with the noise issue I'm following.
> 
> 
> By the way, I just looked and the Anthem public download page is still showing V1.11 for software and V1.1x for the manual. Deep sigh...
> 
> --Bob



I agree! I'm still not sure why it's taking so long. Though I guess if someone had an issue they would likely call their dealer and have them take care of the problem or perhaps call tech support directly.


I can't wait for people on this forum to run the EQ through the mill so we can get more feedback.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13362683
> 
> 
> Thanks Jim! Yes, V1.30a is the version that's supposed to deal with the noise issue I'm following.
> 
> 
> By the way, I just looked and the Anthem public download page is still showing V1.11 for software and V1.1x for the manual. Deep sigh...
> 
> --Bob



Yes, that's it. Full story to come tomorrow.


----------



## ASW

Just loaded 1.30a after getting an email from Nick to test it.


So far, so good - No video black-outs.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13360062
> 
> 
> OK guys,
> 
> 
> You heard it here first. Contact your local dealer and you should be able to place the order for the Anthem Room Correction (ARC-1 Kit).
> 
> 
> If your dealer is not aware of this yet please be patient with them. The notice just came out.
> 
> 
> $399/kit retail.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Jim



anyone have a dealer they could PM me or recommend to me to see about getting the arc-1 kit ?


----------



## Tim Winders

I just did my upgrade to 1.30a from 1.29j. All went well. Now I just have to wait for my ARC-1! Wu hoo!


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13360062
> 
> 
> OK guys,
> 
> You heard it here first. Contact your local dealer and you should be able to place the order for the Anthem Room Correction (ARC-1 Kit).
> 
> If your dealer is not aware of this yet please be patient with them. The notice just came out.
> 
> $399/kit retail.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Jim



Thanks Jim! Where's AnthemAVM? I thought he'd be all over this.

Just called my dealer and placed the order.

As an FYI, they'll need the Serial No. My dealer wanted 1/2 deposit.

No time frame but my dealer did have an order form from Anthem.


----------



## B&W700guy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13365167
> 
> 
> Thanks Jim! Where's AnthemAVM? I thought he'd be all over this.
> 
> Just called my dealer and placed the order.
> 
> As an FYI, they'll need the Serial No. My dealer wanted 1/2 deposit.
> 
> No time frame but my dealer did have an order form from Anthem.



Hay Ya Milt...glade to see you buy something


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *B&W700guy* /forum/post/13365340
> 
> 
> Hay Ya Milt...glade to see you buy something



Well, I'm glad I made you happy.







I guess









Just doin' my part to keep the Canadian economy strong even though I don't live there.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13359731
> 
> 
> Coax and Optical do not have the bandwidth th pass DD+, TrueHD, DTS-HD\\MA. With any Anthem pre\\pro you'll need HDMI OR analog in to get them. For analog you'll need a player with analog outs of course.
> 
> 
> RRosen, I realize your comment re: DD and DTS being "more than enough" is likely an offhand one, but I have to strongly disagree here.
> 
> Once you've been exposed to a good DD+ or TrueHD or LPCM soundtrack, DD just doesn't cut it, imo.
> 
> For me, the advanced audio in HDM is just a hair less important than the video.



Hahaa. I completely agree with your disagreement. What I had said (I think) was that it was enough for many (most I guess given what 80-90% of folks have the ability to decode. IE. Not AVS posters for the most part and almost certainly not many D2 owners here).


I on the other hand want the absolute best/most bandwidth possible. I have spent considerable time learning and $$$ investing towards that goal. I bought into HD DVD at least as much for the audio improvement as the video and the same now holds true for Blu-Ray so we are most definitely on the same page here.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13365167
> 
> 
> Thanks Jim! Where's AnthemAVM? I thought he'd be all over this.
> 
> Just called my dealer and placed the order.
> 
> As an FYI, they'll need the Serial No. My dealer wanted 1/2 deposit.
> 
> No time frame but my dealer did have an order form from Anthem.



Dang, I stay away for a few days, and I missed this. Well I am calling in the am.


Michael


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13362197
> 
> 
> Perhaps I missed it in one of your other posts, but, is there any negative effect to your normal video? These patterns are software/firmware generated, and I'm wondering if a reload of your current firmware or an upgrade if you prefer would cure the problem.



Yea, normal video looks kind of washout color. Skin color too pinkish. If I lower the brightness, the grey ramp becomes all wrong - too dark. Sigh.










Ben


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13362347
> 
> 
> As I recall from an older post you made on this, you are NOT seeing problems if you view a blue ramp chart generated by a source device (e.g., when playing a calibration DVD) correct?
> 
> 
> In any case, the next step is to call Anthem tech support and let them know what you've done to isolate the issue to being inside the Anthem unit.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I may be wrong, but I haven't seen any blue ramp chart in either the DVE or Avia disc, only the grey ramp.


I have a strong feeling it's the D2's generator that's faulty. I remember seeing the defect in the red ramp as well when I was using v1.11. It disappeared after I installed v1.29j, leaving only the blue ramp with it. Who knows, it may disappear as well with v1.3.


From past experience, Anthem doesn't seem keen to respond to emails from an oversea user. So I may just sit this one out and see what happens with later firmware versions. At worst, I can always connect my projector direct to my Denon 5910 and avoid all the hassles.


Thanks for your help, Bob.

Ben


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13364186
> 
> 
> Just loaded 1.30a after getting an email from Nick to test it.
> 
> 
> So far, so good - No video black-outs.



Spoke too soon - same problem after leaving the system off for several hours - no video until I do 7 or more power cycles.


----------



## gostan

I have been trying to run the ARC setup for the last week, with no luck. I keep receiving an excessive background noise error message at the first sweep tones of the front left speaker reading at the first microphone position.


None of the recent software updates have helped to fix this problem.


There is no background noise in my listening room. I have even disconnected my Tivo S3 and TivoHD in case the harddrive spinning was interfering. I have tried different sound levels in the volume setup to no avail. The test tones at initiation of the first microphone reading are loud enough that they should be picked up by the microphone. Only once (with the initial software) was I able to run through two different microphone positions before receiving the excessive background noise message.


I am using a Thinkpad laptop with a serial connector to the D2. I have been thinking that it might be the microphone. Bob P. suggested that it might be the usb connector on my computer not picking up the test tones from the microphone. Nick has been very helpful, but no solutions yet.


So, I am reaching out to any ARC-1 users for thoughts and/or assistance. Have any other ARC users had this problem with excessive background noise error messages? And, if so, how did you resolve the issue?


Nick indicated the following to me that I am the only one reporting this issue. At most others receive the error message once when the phone rings, but the program proceeds to completion. I am going to try my desktop computer and if that does not work, I will take the D2 to my dealer's showroom to see what happens.


Thanks,


----------



## uppacreek

Is anyone else aside from ASW and ninja12 getting the video black-outs after loading firmware 1.29j, 1.29k or 1.3a?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13367083
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I may be wrong, but I haven't seen any blue ramp chart in either the DVE or Avia disc, only the grey ramp.
> 
> 
> I have a strong feeling it's the D2's generator that's faulty. I remember seeing the defect in the red ramp as well when I was using v1.11. It disappeared after I installed v1.29j, leaving only the blue ramp with it. Who knows, it may disappear as well with v1.3.



Yes you are correct. The standard Avia disc and the DVE disc only have gray ramps. I'm using the Avia Pro discs that also have color ramps and I forgot that the standard discs don't have them.


But with Component you can achieve the same thing by simply disconnecting the Red and Green cables and playing a gray scale ramp.


The problem is that you are only seeing the problem at 720p to your display, and I haven't tried upscaling either the Avia or DVE discs over Component to see if they actually allow that (or prohibit it due to copy protection -- limiting you to no more than 480p).


Ideally, if you have an upscaling standard DVD player that lets you output Component 720p from either of these, then you could play the gray ramp (blue cable only) directly into your TV via Component 720p (to verify no problem in the TV), and then play it through the Anthem -- 720p in to 720p out. In addition you could then run Component 480i into the Anthem (blue cable only) and then Component 720p from the Anthem to the TV. This would test the entire signal path through the Anthem, and if you see no problem in the ramp (displaying as only blue because you only have the blue cable connected from the player) then you have pretty much isolated the problem to the test pattern generator inside the Anthem.


If you find you CAN'T upscale either of these discs to Component 720p due to copy protection -- either having your upscaling player do it or having the Anthem do it, then an alternative would be to try to find a "test pattern" program on an HDTV channel. In the US, the INHD and HDNET cable channels periodically broadcast about a 15 minute set of test pattens -- usually about once every couple weeks. If you have an HD-DVR you can set it to record this. Again, by only using the Blue Component cable you can turn gray scale test patterns into Blue test patterns.


Of course it wouldn't hurt to see if the new software fixes this for you, but unless there was some problem during your previous software installs, the circuit that generates these patterns shouldn't be that sensitive to the software installs, so I suspect you have a hardware problem.


And if you see the problem in blue ramps from a source device, then you've got a problem in the blue signal path though the Anthem -- which is also likely a hardware problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

gostan (and other users who have ARC),

Is there any simple way, independent of the ARC test tone sweeps, to verify that the microphone is actually picking up sound and that the microphone, cable, and USB connection into the computer are functioning at all?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

benleeys,

Another interesting test would be to play the Anthem's gray bars pattern while only using the Blue Component cable to your TV.


This should be identical to playing the blue bars pattern. But if you see the problem playing the blue bars pattern and DON'T see it playing the gray bars pattern (using only the Blue cable), then this would point to the the test pattern generator as being faulty since you would now know that the Blue Component analog video output circuit itself can be made to function correctly.


(But if you see the problem both ways, that doesn't actually tell you anything new.)

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

eMailed my dealer last night after hearing that the ARC-1 may be shipping.


He replies today that he hasn't heard, but is on vacation and will check when he gets back...


Beep, Boop, beep, beep, boop boop, bing, Hello Dealer number 2? (I would not realistically list patience in my top 5 attributes







) Can you see if you can order the ARC-1 yet from Anthem? He had just heard of it yesterday (great), but will call and find out if they can order.


I will post here when I here back from him. Apparently the closer geographically you actually are to Anthem/Paradigm, the worse your level of knowledge on current events hahaa.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13368997
> 
> 
> Is anyone else aside from ASW and ninja12 getting the video black-outs after loading firmware 1.29j, 1.29k or 1.3a?



Nick tells me I am not alone. He says in some cases (like mine) the D2 is saying no video input whereas with others it's HDCP monitor needed.


----------



## netroamer

I ordered my ARC-1 from my dealer, yesterday. I followed up today and was told that this item is a parts order and not an equipment order that requires he hold it until he reaches a minimum amount. He filled out the form with my unit serial number and faxed it to the parts department, which he says has the items in stock and expects arrival early next week. I hope he's right!


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13362953
> 
> 
> Yes, that's it. Full story to come tomorrow.



I had the 1.30a firmware upgrade downloaded to my D2 today by my installer. We ran new sweeps and I still have the background noise in my D2. You notice it when the volume is turned up high in quiet scenes during movies or TV shows.(I use analog direct for music so the noise is not there). When you take the EQ(ARC) out of the input the noise disappears. I'm disappointed it didn't solve the problem. Ohh well back to the drawing board.


----------



## RROSEN

I just heard back from dealer #2, and he confirmed with Anthem that this was shipping.


In fact if his truck hasn't made it's pickup there yet today, he should be able to get it... TODAY. I gave a deposit and my serial number over the phone (The serial number is the same as the number that appears on the last display page as you cycle through the select button right?)


On another note, you guys may want to double check pricing. The price I was quoted was considerably lower than the $399 reported above.


Lower by enough that I hesitate to even mention it until I can confirm it with product in hand.


The good news is that this is really shipping now.


PS. I have a feeling that the dealer may be underestimating the lead time Anthem may need for the ARC-1. Do you know if they need to do anything on their end to Assign it to my serial number or do they simply have to log it and the rest is done when I run the ARC-1 Software?


As my little niece (you know the angel walking the earth type) says when she gets excited about something... "I am so exciting"


I will keep you posted.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## gblack

Richard, who was dealer #2, you can PM me if you'd rather not say publicly.


----------



## RROSEN

Are there any reasons / rules against posting the dealers name?


I have no issue with it. The dealer is right here in Toronto so I wonder if lead time and cost have anything to do with proximity and the absence of any shipping required (I.E. All the dealers around here who offer Paradigm and Anthem stuff pretty much do weekly pickups there).


I am not sure if this dealer ships out however.


On another note, it looks like I was correct in that Anthem has to do something on their end. My ARC-1 will be ready for pickup early next week based on the confirmation I just got back from the dealer.


Cheers,


Richard


Edit: As I suspected the original price quoted was not the correct Retail Price hahaa. Dealer was good enough to work a deal given the confusion, but it looks like the $399 number is in fact going to be the suggested retail price. Seems like a happy medium for both where $300 may not have been enough to compensate Anthem and $500 sure seemed a bit steep for me.


Corona in hand, smile on face and looking forward to getting my ARC-1







Where did I save those darn bouncies.. I have a feeling we will be seeing a lot of them over the next few weeks.


----------



## gblack

I'm in Toronto too. i don't think there's rules against posting dealer names. There's not that many anthem dealers in TO anyways. Audio One is where i got my anthem gear from.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13371533
> 
> 
> I had the 1.30a firmware upgrade downloaded to my D2 today by my installer. We ran new sweeps and I still have the background noise in my D2. You notice it when the volume is turned up high in quiet scenes during movies or TV shows.(I use analog direct for music so the noise is not there). When you take the EQ(ARC) out of the input the noise disappears. I'm disappointed it didn't solve the problem. Ohh well back to the drawing board.



Have any of the ARC-1 beta testers in this thread experienced the problem BIGMOVIEFAN is reporting?


It is a noise artifact that is only present when ARC is turned on for a source and most noticeable in quiet passages when the main volume is turned up. The character of the noise varies each time you load new ARC sweep results (no idea why) but, as I understand it, it stays the same for different source content for any given load-up of a particular ARC measurement sweep.


The noise was first described to me as kind of a rumble, and it put me in mind of "aliasing" noise that will result if high frequency digital audio is miss-processed -- resulting in low frequency artifacts getting introduced into the digital results. But that's just a guess.


Apparently Anthem believed the V1.30a software would fix this for BIGMOVIEFAN, but it does not appear to have done the trick.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

I also bought my Anthem and Paradigm gear from Audio One.


Dealer # 2 is Kromer radio which is just up the road from my new loft location on Bathhurst and I have dealt with them previously for a sub repair etc.


Web site: http://www.kromerradio.com and I spoke with Ken there.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13369791
> 
> 
> gostan (and other users who have ARC),
> 
> Is there any simple way, independent of the ARC test tone sweeps, to verify that the microphone is actually picking up sound and that the microphone, cable, and USB connection into the computer are functioning at all?
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I believe that the answer is negative.


However, I switched in a desktop (a bit of a pain) for my Thinkpad and ARC ran like a charm. The usb port on the laptop must not have been able to process the test tones from the microphone to the computer.


I am now experimenting around with manual and custom setups.


I certainly hope that you and other long time D2 owners are able to jump on the ARC bandwagon soon.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13373507
> 
> 
> However, I switched in a desktop (a bit of a pain) for my Thinkpad .



What does that mean - Switched in a Desktop


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13374499
> 
> 
> What does that mean - Switched in a Desktop



It means he switched to a different (desktop) computer with a USB port that was less broken...

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13374611
> 
> 
> It means he switched to a different (desktop) computer with a USB port that was less broken...
> 
> --Bob



Then he should have said - Switched TO A DESKTOP


----------



## Milt99

gostan, how old is your laptop?

Since it also has a serial port it may be USB 1.0 and not 2.0.

I could see an issue with USB 1.0, it is very slow.

My dealer called to confirm that he sent in the order.









Even though no one else mentioned it I would echo Bob's request from current ARC users regarding BMF's noise issue.

I'm assuming since no one else reported it, it may be like some of the other D2 issues which only affect certain users.

Not to minimize those problems at all. I would be very frustrated if any of them happened to me and I hope bigmoviefan's issue

gets resolved asap.

I thought there'd be more buzz about ARC shipping.

Where's Tomlin? I thought he'd be all over this. Maybe he has a life.









Seriously, I am very stoked about ARC. I'm also very curious about what difference(s) it will make.

To my ears my theater room is already pretty damn good.

I built it according to plans from a well respect designer.

I'm guessing that the low frequencies will benefit most and I'm not expecting a revelation, but it sure would be killer if it all sounded better.


----------



## slots1

My order went in to Anthem today from a dealer in Chicago. Price is $399.

He did not say what the delivery time is.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13372690
> 
> 
> Have any of the ARC-1 beta testers in this thread experienced the problem BIGMOVIEFAN is reporting?
> 
> 
> It is a noise artifact that is only present when ARC is turned on for a source and most noticeable in quiet passages when the main volume is turned up. The character of the noise varies each time you load new ARC sweep results (no idea why) but, as I understand it, it stays the same for different source content for any given load-up of a particular ARC measurement sweep.
> 
> 
> The noise was first described to me as kind of a rumble, and it put me in mind of "aliasing" noise that will result if high frequency digital audio is miss-processed -- resulting in low frequency artifacts getting introduced into the digital results. But that's just a guess.
> 
> 
> Apparently Anthem believed the V1.30a software would fix this for BIGMOVIEFAN, but it does not appear to have done the trick.
> 
> --Bob




Bob,


No I have not had that experience whatsoever and that's with two units with ARC. I will say that these units are quite new however and I'm not sure how old BIGMOVIEFAN's unit is.


Jim


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm pretty sure he's got a new unit since he posted about receiving it just a while back.


Well Anthem is definitely on top of this -- they've got the data details from his installer -- so with any luck they'll figure it out in short order.


I must admit I'm a bit worried that there may be some bug in the WINDOWS side of this -- i.e., where the calculation is done -- so that the issue may be something having to do with the laptop his installer is using to do the processing and setup.


But that's pointless speculation at the moment.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13375100
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure he's got a new unit since he posted about receiving it just a while back.
> 
> 
> Well Anthem is definitely on top of this -- they've got the data details from his installer -- so with any luck they'll figure it out in short order.
> 
> 
> I must admit I'm a bit worried that there may be some bug in the WINDOWS side of this -- i.e., where the calculation is done -- so that the issue may be something having to do with the laptop his installer is using to do the processing and setup.
> 
> 
> But that's pointless speculation at the moment.
> 
> --Bob



I assume your ARC is on order?


----------



## shah993




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13373507
> 
> 
> Bob, I believe that the answer is negative.
> 
> 
> However, I switched in a desktop (a bit of a pain) for my Thinkpad and ARC ran like a charm. The usb port on the laptop must not have been able to process the test tones from the microphone to the computer.
> 
> 
> I am now experimenting around with manual and custom setups.
> 
> 
> I certainly hope that you and other long time D2 owners are able to jump on the ARC bandwagon soon.



gostan, try plugging in your arc to the usb jacks at the back of the laptop rather than the front.They seem to be more powerful (dont know why).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13375121
> 
> 
> I assume your ARC is on order?



Oh yeah.


My dealer original got a quote from Anthem of $499 (just about a month ago). He had not yet received the notice you reported when I called him on Wednesday. He's going to toss it over the state line to me so I don't have to pay sales tax. No ETA on it yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13374977
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> No I have not had that experience whatsoever and that's with two units with ARC. I will say that these units are quite new however and I'm not sure how old BIGMOVIEFAN's unit is.
> 
> 
> Jim



I received my D2 the 2nd week of February 2008. So I'd say my unit is quite new also.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bigmoviefan,

So it was a "new" D2 correct -- not a dealer demo unit that might have been manufactured earlier?


And did your unit come with ARC and with the original ARC software factory installed, or did you and your dealer have to do a software install to get the original ARC software into that D2?


By now Anthem may have looked at the latest stuff from your dealer and already have an answer. But if they are still scratching their heads I would be sorely tempted to try to latch onto a different Windows computer to redo both the D2 firmware install and the ARC measurement and results upload to the D2.


We already have one report here of a user who's ARC test tone sweep and setup failed outright -- apparently due to some strangeness in the USB port of the laptop he first used. When he switched to a different Windows computer everything worked just fine. I could imagine situations where the particular Windows computer you and your dealer are using is *ALMOST* working correctly during the ARC sweep measurements and the resulting calculation.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13374803
> 
> 
> gostan, how old is your laptop?
> 
> Since it also has a serial port it may be USB 1.0 and not 2.0.
> 
> I could see an issue with USB 1.0, it is very slow.



The computer is an older IBM Thinkpad T22 with one usb port. I actually picked it up recently as it has a serial port and so I have a computer in my loft AV room in order to run ARC. I am thinking that the problem with this laptop might me a memory issue as it is only a 900mhz pentium 3 and only has 512mb or ram. I do not recall any minimum processor speed or memory requirements being published by Anthem for previous D2 software updates, but the ARC program is likely to have such requirements. I am going to check with Nick on this. If it is the case, then, Anthem should publish some minimum system requirements.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13376484
> 
> 
> The computer is an older IBM Thinkpad T22 with one usb port. I actually picked it up recently as it has a serial port and so I have a computer in my loft AV room in order to run ARC. I am thinking that the problem with this laptop might me a memory issue as it is only a 900mhz pentium 3 and only has 512mb or ram. I do not recall any minimum processor speed or memory requirements being published by Anthem for previous D2 software updates, but the ARC program is likely to have such requirements. I am going to check with Nick on this. If it is the case, then, Anthem should publish some minimum system requirements.



I'm assuming, which I know I shouldn't do, the USB cable connects to the mic. Is that right? If so, do you know how long the USB cable is?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13372690
> 
> 
> Have any of the ARC-1 beta testers in this thread experienced the problem BIGMOVIEFAN is reporting?
> 
> 
> It is a noise artifact that is only present when ARC is turned on for a source and most noticeable in quiet passages when the main volume is turned up. The character of the noise varies each time you load new ARC sweep results (no idea why) but, as I understand it, it stays the same for different source content for any given load-up of a particular ARC measurement sweep.
> 
> 
> The noise was first described to me as kind of a rumble, and it put me in mind of "aliasing" noise that will result if high frequency digital audio is miss-processed -- resulting in low frequency artifacts getting introduced into the digital results. But that's just a guess.
> 
> 
> Apparently Anthem believed the V1.30a software would fix this for BIGMOVIEFAN, but it does not appear to have done the trick.
> 
> --Bob



I was on the traveling lately and didn't installed 1.30a yet. This is planned for tomorrow. I will report on it this week-end.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13369791
> 
> 
> gostan (and other users who have ARC),
> 
> Is there any simple way, independent of the ARC test tone sweeps, to verify that the microphone is actually picking up sound and that the microphone, cable, and USB connection into the computer are functioning at all?
> 
> --Bob



This is a feature I requested... Sometime the ARC was turning an error message that it could not perform reading and it is annoying since we don't know if there is something wrong with the setup.


I haven't look at 1.30a but up to now there is nothing to show that the microphone is correctly working. Something similar to the microphone test provided with Skype would be good


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13376595
> 
> 
> I'm assuming, which I know I shouldn't do, the USB cable connects to the mic. Is that right? If so, do you know how long the USB cable is?



Correct. The USB cable that is supplied is pretty long. I am guessing at least 10 or 12 feet, but I am not at home right now. I will measure later today. I am sure that a usb extension cord can be added if the supplied cable is not long enough.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13368188
> 
> 
> I have been trying to run the ARC setup for the last week, with no luck. I keep receiving an excessive background noise error message at the first sweep tones of the front left speaker reading at the first microphone position.



I got the same message once a while it is because my main fronts are connected to a tube amp while the other channels are connected to solid state amps. The delta level between all channels is 12 dbs. The test tones where just not loud enough for the Front.


Now try this, go in your setup and raise all the levels to 10 dbs and than run the ARC-1.


If you use Skype you could also try to use it to verify that the microphone works. Go in tools-options-audio-setting-microphone selection. Select the ARC-1 Microphone. Raise the microphone volume to max and ten test the microphone.


Note: The ARC-1 is taking care of the microphone volume. The Test skype is just to make sure it is working (properly recognized by Windows).


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13377061
> 
> 
> Correct. The USB cable that is supplied is pretty long. I am guessing at least 10 or 12 feet, but I am not at home right now. I will measure later today. I am sure that a usb extension cord can be added if the supplied cable is not long enough.



Probably around 10 foot. If like me you are using a laptop you add the length of the serial cable between the laptop and the D2 and you end up with quite a long reach.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13376083
> 
> 
> Bigmoviefan,
> 
> So it was a "new" D2 correct -- not a dealer demo unit that might have been manufactured earlier?
> 
> 
> And did your unit come with ARC and with the original ARC software factory installed, or did you and your dealer have to do a software install to get the original ARC software into that D2?
> 
> 
> By now Anthem may have looked at the latest stuff from your dealer and already have an answer. But if they are still scratching their heads I would be sorely tempted to try to latch onto a different Windows computer to redo both the D2 firmware install and the ARC measurement and results upload to the D2.
> 
> 
> We already have one report here of a user who's ARC test tone sweep and setup failed outright -- apparently due to some strangeness in the USB port of the laptop he first used. When he switched to a different Windows computer everything worked just fine. I could imagine situations where the particular Windows computer you and your dealer are using is *ALMOST* working correctly during the ARC sweep measurements and the resulting calculation.
> 
> --Bob



It was brand new. In a sealed box. With the Arc kit inside and v1.30 already loaded. It was NOT a dealer demo.

My Installer is using a USB adaptor for his laptop. Could that cause the problem?


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13378688
> 
> 
> It was brand new. In a sealed box. With the Arc kit inside and v1.30 already loaded. It was NOT a dealer demo.
> 
> My Installer is using a USB adaptor for his laptop. Could that cause the problem?



I assume he's not using a usb hub?


The usb adaptor can definitely be the culprit. What COM port is it using?


Make sure it's not higher than COM6.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13378850
> 
> 
> I assume he's not using a usb hub?
> 
> 
> The usb adaptor can definitely be the culprit. What COM port is it using?
> 
> 
> Make sure it's not higher than COM6.



It don't think it's the computer. Anthem thinks they know what it is, so I am going to remain silent till that is confirmed and tested. But I think they have solved the problem.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/13376484
> 
> 
> The computer is an older IBM Thinkpad T22 with one usb port. I am thinking that the problem with this laptop might me a memory issue as it is only a 900mhz pentium 3 and only has 512mb or ram. If it is the case, then, Anthem should publish some minimum system requirements.



I'm assuming that you ran into issues with the laptop while _running_ the ARC program and not with uploading the firmware.

If the laptop is running XP, 512 probably won't cut it as XP takes nearly that much at idle, so instead of loading ARC entirely into "real" memory, it gets loaded in and out of virtual memory, i.e., hard drive space which very well could affect performance of the program.

From my experience, any PC running XP really needs 1Gb of ram if you do anything more than simple Word stuff. Vista needs 2Gb.

If you're curious, you can open task manager while ARC is running and switch between the process window see how much CPU and memory ARC is using along with the I\\O bytes and then open the performance window and see how much free system memory there is and how much virtual memory is being used.

If this is of no interest to you, I plan on doing this when I run ARC just to get an idea about how much processing etc., is going on. I'm assuming that ARC will be pretty CPU intensive.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13379205
> 
> 
> It don't think it's the computer. Anthem thinks they know what it is, so I am going to remain silent till that is confirmed and tested. But I think they have solved the problem.



Keep us posted. Inquiring minds want to know.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13369844
> 
> 
> benleeys,
> 
> Another interesting test would be to play the Anthem's gray bars pattern while only using the Blue Component cable to your TV.
> 
> 
> This should be identical to playing the blue bars pattern. But if you see the problem playing the blue bars pattern and DON'T see it playing the gray bars pattern (using only the Blue cable), then this would point to the the test pattern generator as being faulty since you would now know that the Blue Component analog video output circuit itself can be made to function correctly.
> 
> 
> (But if you see the problem both ways, that doesn't actually tell you anything new.)
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I find that the projector needs the Y connection in order project anything on the screen. Which is not much use because I still get the grey ramp besides the blue if I simply disconnect Pr.


Think I'll invest in a 7m long HDMI cable and connect thru a moone card and see what happens. Wish me luck!


Many thanks for trying to sort this one out for me.

Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Benleeys,

Oh right -- you're using YPbPr as opposed to RGB.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13379205
> 
> 
> It don't think it's the computer. Anthem thinks they know what it is, so I am going to remain silent till that is confirmed and tested. But I think they have solved the problem.



Version 1.31 is up. Give it a shot.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13382227
> 
> 
> Version 1.31 is up. Give it a shot.



Noooooo!







I just upgraded to 1.30a yesterday. If only I had waited one more day. Oh well, off to upgrade again...


----------



## barhoram

is there anything in the 1.3X version upgrades worth getting if one does not have the ARC?


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/13382505
> 
> 
> is there anything in the 1.3X version upgrades worth getting if one does not have the ARC?



1. If you do NOT have ARC and if your system is presently working fine then you do NOT need to upgrade.


2. If you do NOT have ARC and either have it on order or will be placing an order soon then do not upgrade until you get ARC. There may, or may not be, other software updates.


3. If you DO have ARC then you should upgrade.


Nick said minor changes are:


"- more popups telling you what adjustments to make in event of bad capture


- running setup.exe automatically uninstalls previous version (doesn't delete your saved files or mic calibration files)


There's also v1.31 for the preamp. Solved one mystery that post-v1.2d caused video to cut off in some systems during startup."


and finally


4. Don't kill the messenger.










Jim


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Would you like a blindfold or perhaps a final cigarette?

(grin!)


Thanks for the update Jim!


------------------------------------


Folks, whether the update is worth it for people who have not purchased the ARC update depends upon what version you are on now.


Many folks are still on V1.10 or V1.11. There have been a metric TON of important bug fixes since then. Some features have been added as well (such as multiple Video Output configurations). It's just that up to now there hasn't been a release that was believed stable for all versions of previously shipped D2s and was expected to work with all combinations of source and display devices.


I have not yet upgraded myself -- still on V1.11 waiting on my ARC -- but I think the odds are EXCELLENT that everyone should upgrade to this latest software whether or not you intend to purchase ARC.


That said, it wouldn't hurt to wait another couple weeks to hear more feedback and to let the initial bug fix versions get out there.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13383147
> 
> 
> I have not yet upgraded myself -- still on V1.11 waiting on my ARC -- but I think the odds are EXCELLENT that everyone should upgrade to this latest software whether or not you intend to purchase ARC.
> 
> 
> That said, it wouldn't hurt to wait another couple weeks to hear more feedback and to let the initial bug fix versions get out there.
> 
> --Bob



Exactly the approach that I will be taking!


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13383167
> 
> 
> Exactly the approach that I will be taking!



Chicken









So, Rob have you placed your order yet?


----------



## mr_fitz

I called my Anthem rep today and he said that they will be available for shipping starting monday next week. I already ordered mine.










John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13383744
> 
> 
> I called my Anthem rep today and he said that they will be available for shipping starting monday next week. I already ordered mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



My dealer told me the same thing. I ordered mine too.


----------



## RROSEN

OK, so I am sure this is obvious to everyone, but if your dealer doesn't ask you for your D2 serial number you have not actually placed your order yet.


At some point in time, your dealer will call you back for your Serial number. At some point after that you will in fact be getting into the Anthem queue for order fulfillment.


I say that just in case. Many dealers (the one I ordered from for example) are not familiar with the Serial Number requirement and the pre-setup work required on Anthems part through no fault of their own. Be sure when you order to give your serial number and let the dealer know they need to provide it in advance of shipping/pickup/fulfillment of your order just in case (IE ASAP).


I am sure there will be more than a few folks out there who's receipt of this baby will be delayed by a week because of this gap in dealer awareness.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. In my case, the dealer placed the order immediately in hope of making that afternoons pickup and it was then that they found out about the serial number requirement. I would have provided it initially up front except my initial call was to see if the order could even be placed yet.


----------



## Bruceko

just checked Anthems website and it still shows 1.1 as the latest update?


----------



## ASW

Nick sent me an email today saying 1.31 fixes a timing issue Anthem discovered that may have been killing my video on post 1.21d firmware. It works so far. Maybe there is an ARC-1 in my future (I will be able to tell better tomorrow from a cold start).


Just a quick tip for people who have had issues with upgrades using a USB to serial adapter. I recently purchased from Newegg.com a SIIG PCMCIA serial port card for my laptop that works very well. It is very fast (it seems much faster than my Keyspan USB adapter) and I have not gotten any failed firmware installs since using it. If you have a laptop with a PCMCIA card slot, you might want to give it a shot instead of a USB to serial adapter.


Regards.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/13384081
> 
> 
> just checked Anthems website and it still shows 1.1 as the latest update?



Based on an email from Nick earlier in the week, I think they will keep 1.11 on the website until they have a solid 1.3x firmware that fixes the mystery video problem some of us have had with post 1.21d firmware.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/13384081
> 
> 
> just checked Anthems website and it still shows 1.1 as the latest update?



Anthem continues to do its real software updates via a password protected web site. Contact Anthem tech support for access. It's no big deal.


Nobody really knows why they have left the V1.1x manual and V1.11 software on the public web page since those haven't been useful for over a year.


The assumption is that Anthem will finally update the public web site with the latest stuff now that ARC is shipping, but we'll see.


--------------------------------------


By the way, for folks accessing the latest V1.31 stuff, is it a complete install kit? For example, does it include a compatible Live Video Settings Editor and also a compatible Setup Editor?


Is the extra documentation in there as well, e.g., the RS-232 commands?


Is there any new stuff that V1.11 people might not have already seen (other than the ARC documentation)?

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13384193
> 
> 
> By the way, for folks accessing the latest V1.31 stuff, is it a complete install kit? For example, does it include a compatible Live Video Settings Editor and also a compatible Setup Editor?
> 
> 
> Is the extra documentation in there as well, e.g., the RS-232 commands?
> 
> 
> Is there any new stuff that V1.11 people might not have already seen (other than the ARC documentation)?
> 
> --Bob



Bob -


1.31 is a "mostly" complete kit. It does not include a Setup Editor. The readme says there isn't a compatible version with 1.3 yet. It does include Live Video Settings Editor 1.20 which is compatible, RS232 spreadsheet and docs, video timings PDF. The 1.31 kit includes updaters for the D2, D1 (no HDMI) and AVM50.


Contrary to Jim E.'s advice, I installed the 1.31 D2 software tonight (up from 1.30a). No problems. I don't have the ARC-1 software. I'm not sure where the download is for that, but will wait to install that software until I get my ARC-1.


=== Tim


----------



## Milt99

Mr. Winders, you are an intrepid soul.


RROSEN,

Anthem emailed an order form to dealers with the specifics of what they need when ordering ARC.

The guy I spoke to did not know about accessing the Status button to display the serial no. so I enlightened him.

In my case accessing the back of the unit to read the serial number is not something I want to do.


mr_fitz, that is good news. My dealer did not have a ship date as of Wednesday.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13384510
> 
> 
> Mr. Winders, you are an intrepid soul.



in·trep·id (n-trpd)

adj.

Resolutely courageous; fearless


That pretty much sums it up. I live on the bleeding edge. Sometimes I get cut, but it's always exciting!


----------



## RROSEN

Hahaa I guess I placed my order either:


1, Before this particular dealer had the form.


2, The details of the form were passed around the store.


3, Other ;-)


PS. The person I deal with at my original dealer is a part owner. When I first called he had never heard of it. When I eMailed yesterday he had no idea of the availability (although he WAS on vacation so I give him the benefit of the doubt).


PPS. Order soon, order correctly, WIN!


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13384116
> 
> 
> Nick sent me an email today saying 1.31 fixes a timing issue Anthem discovered that may have been killing my video on post 1.21d firmware. It works so far. Maybe there is an ARC-1 in my future (I will be able to tell better tomorrow from a cold start).



Well - its day 2 and I still get a video signal from a cold start, so it looks loke 1.31 solves my 1.29x/1.30a "no video" problem. The D2 seems to me to recognize the video signal a bit slower than 1.21d when it first start up, but no big deal. Does anyone else notice a lag (maybe 5-10 seconds) in the D2 locking on to the video signal from a cold start?


----------



## ninja12

So, is it ok to load 1.31 if you do not have ARC-1?


----------



## BillW

In my case accessing the back of the unit to read the serial number is not something I want to do.


The serial # is also on the box your unit came in. That is what I used







.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13385909
> 
> 
> So, is it ok to load 1.31 if you do not have ARC-1?



I don't see why not.


ARC is optional, and even if you have it, the factory defaults will be to have it disabled for all input sources, so how can the D2 tell whether you have it or not?


What we don't know yet is whether there are any gotchas for using V1.31 with specific source or display device combos or with specific older production runs of the D2. So far no problems have been reported here.


-----------------------------


Also, I believe we were just told that there is a V1.31 version for the AVM-50 (as well as the D1) in their "secret" download site. Since the AVM-50 can't use ARC that's a good sign that this version is OK for folks who choose not to use ARC for any reason.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/13386354
> 
> 
> In my case accessing the back of the unit to read the serial number is not something I want to do.
> 
> The serial # is also on the box your unit came in. That is what I used
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



My D2 box is in the attic storage and it's scary up there









May be this has been asked and answered so please excuse,

To ARC users, after the ARC profile\\curve has been uploaded to the Anthem, is there a way to turn it off & on?

IOW, can one do an ARC, no ARC A\\B?

Thanks.


----------



## Egan

Hi all,


I have an upgraded D1 on v1.11, outputting video via HDMI from an HR21 set to native. All of a sudden the display shows that it is receiving 720p from HBO HD, both channels 70 and 501, and recordings also show 720p. All other stations ok.

I've never seen this in months of use.


Also, is it a known bug when changing from a 720p station to a 1080i, the display will state 540p and the picture will be distorted? Thanks for any help.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/13386354
> 
> 
> In my case accessing the back of the unit to read the serial number is not something I want to do.
> 
> 
> The serial # is also on the box your unit came in. That is what I used
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Unless you want the exercise, ya'll can avoid all that climbing around in the attic or crawling on your hands and knees behind your AV rack looking for your D2 serial number. Just turn on your D2 and keep hitting the Select button, cycle through the input/output info and watch the front display. The very last info it shows, right after "All Timers" (not Alzheimer's







) the display will say "Anthem Statement D2" and below that is the serial #.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13387750
> 
> 
> My D2 box is in the attic storage and it's scary up there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May be this has been asked and answered so please excuse,
> 
> To ARC users, after the ARC profile\\curve has been uploaded to the Anthem, is there a way to turn it off & on?
> 
> IOW, can one do an ARC, no ARC A\\B?
> 
> Thanks.



The ARC "Room EQ" processing can be turned ON or OFF per input source in the Setup / Source Setup menu for each source.


You could even setup two "overlayed" input sources (e.g., DVD1 vs. DVD2) where the only difference is whether ARC is on or not, which means you can A/B things simply by selecting the alternate input source via the remote.


Keep in mind that you will have to do a full, careful, manual setup of your speakers, bass management, and such for you to get any useful comparison here between the best you can do manually and what ARC will do for you. And you will also need to leave any external settings (e.g., control settings in your subwoofer, speaker positioning and the like) identical -- which means if you decide to change any of that due to ARC tests you will need to recheck/adjust your manual configuration as well to work with those external changes before you can do any meaningful A/B comparisons.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/13387826
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I have an upgraded D1 on v1.11, outputting video via HDMI from an HR21 set to native. All of a sudden the display shows that it is receiving 720p from HBO HD, both channels 70 and 501, and recordings also show 720p. All other stations ok.
> 
> I've never seen this in months of use.
> 
> 
> Also, is it a known bug when changing from a 720p station to a 1080i, the display will state 540p and the picture will be distorted? Thanks for any help.



Odds are your issue with HBO is at the broadcaster's end or due to something your cable company is doing. They may have switched to 720p for a sports program for example and forgot to switch it back. It happens.


As long as things are still working correctly for other SD and HD TV channels, it is highly unlikely there is anything wrong with your set top box or the D1.


-------------------------


Your issue in changing from 720p to 1080i sounds like a classic HDMI handshake problem. Some devices will revert to 480p or 540p if they can't get an HDMI connection they understand. Sometimes these issues can be addressed most easily by upgrading the HDMI cable between your source and the D1 and between the D1 and your TV. You need to consider both cables because the source device drives the handshake even though the problem may actually be on the display side.


Also, set HDMI Repeater = NO in Setup / Source Setup for each HDMI input device, and double check that Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF is set for each input (whether or not it is an HDMI input device). These two settings simplify the work the source and the Anthem have to do to make the HDMI handshake happen.


In addition, there have also been improvements in HDMI handshaking in the software for the D2 (including upgraded D1 units) since V1.11. The latest software is V1.31 (the version that also supports ARC). It is still on the Anthem restricted download site, but we expect it to move to the public download site "real soon now".

--Bob


----------



## Egan

Thanks a lot Bob, will check those settings.


I have satellite, DirecTV, I posted this issue in another forum and other guys say they see 1080i. Just checked again recently and it still has HBO HD outputting 720p.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13385909
> 
> 
> So, is it ok to load 1.31 if you do not have ARC-1?



yes


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/13388372
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot Bob, will check those settings.
> 
> 
> I have satellite, DirecTV, I posted this issue in another forum and other guys say they see 1080i. Just checked again recently and it still has HBO HD outputting 720p.



There's really nothing you can screw up in a DirecTV box or your D1-HD that will cause just one channel to be stuck at 720p.


Call DirecTV and let them know that you are getting something odd with HBO and ask them to re-authorize your set top box. It is just possible that something has gotten stuck in there that they can reset by re-authorizing the box.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13383272
> 
> 
> Chicken
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, Rob have you placed your order yet?



Nope, taking a wait and see approach for now.


The Chicken allegation is perfectly suitable!


----------



## BruiserG

Hi All,


Has anyone run into an issue with the 1.31 installer not picking up the D2? I am using a USB to serial adapter that works fine with the Setup Editor and Live Video Setup editors. I was able to hook up to my unit without a problem and save all of my settings. I've even been able to upgrade the firmware in the past - went to v1.21b using the same adapter. However, for some reason when I use the 1.31 loader, it says that it cannot find the Anthem Hardware on any port. I've done all of the checks - tried various comm ports from 1 - 6, I've tried different flow control settings and baud rates, but all without any luck. I even re-loaded 1.21b again to make sure I wasn't going crazy. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions?


Thanks!


----------



## EAnderson

Hello everyone,

This is my first post but I have a question. I have an older D2, started at v1.0 then had my dealer upgrade my unit to v1.04. Recently, I upgraded again to v1.21d after which I lost component video output. I tried to reload three more times, no luck, packed it up and took it to my local dealer he also had no luck with consistant component video output, HDMI output worked ok, although I have no HDMI displays. My dealer installed v1.29k, I now have component video output but after I do multible powerup/power downs and when I switch from one input to another I'm getting digital blocking and comb patterns and then the picture finally shows up. I called Anthem tech support and they recommend upgrading to v1.30a or v1.31. I wanted to hear/read any thoughts or input on this. I wish I had never upgraded from v1.04, I guess I thought an upgrade was moving up to something better and not a repair or fix for something that wasnt broken.

Any thoughts, opinions, ideas or recommendations are truly welcome as my warrenty on the video side is almost out.


Thanks,EAnderson


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13388828
> 
> 
> Nope, taking a wait and see approach for now.
> 
> 
> The Chicken allegation is perfectly suitable!



Smart man.

For some reason, I'm all over this.

I'm glad my initial prediction of a May timeframe was incorrect.


Bob, thanks for the info on ARC. Sounds like it will be a very simple matter to A\\B the ARC effects.

Yes, I have done what I consider to be a fairly assiduous audio configuration of my system with the help of some very talented friends.

I'm pretty certain my low frequency tweaking is not optimal as I have not spent what seems to be the "required" amount of time there.


----------



## dseliger

I'm running 1.31 on my D2 and my ARC hasnt come in yet, its working great so far (3 or 4 movies since upgrade).




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13386572
> 
> 
> I don't see why not.
> 
> 
> ARC is optional, and even if you have it, the factory defaults will be to have it disabled for all input sources, so how can the D2 tell whether you have it or not?
> 
> 
> What we don't know yet is whether there are any gotchas for using V1.31 with specific source or display device combos or with specific older production runs of the D2. So far no problems have been reported here.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------
> 
> 
> Also, I believe we were just told that there is a V1.31 version for the AVM-50 (as well as the D1) in their "secret" download site. Since the AVM-50 can't use ARC that's a good sign that this version is OK for folks who choose not to use ARC for any reason.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13390275
> 
> 
> Smart man.
> 
> For some reason, I'm all over this.
> 
> I'm glad my initial prediction of a May timeframe was incorrect.



Looking forward to reading about your experience and results.


----------



## tngiloy

This may be a little off topic with all the excitement and questions about the ARC-1 and software upgrades (I also ordered my ARC-1 and am eagerly awaiting its arrival), but I am looking to get a new cd player and was wondering if anyone out there has any suggestions as to players that 'play well' with the D2. I have a SFI centered system- D2, A5 & A2, Paradigm S4 speakers.

I'm planning to spend in the $2-3k range.

Just wondering if there is anyone out there with similar set-up that could suggest a cd player to me to help narrow my hunt.

Thanks,

Tom


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13390635
> 
> 
> This may be a little off topic with all the excitement and questions about the ARC-1 and software upgrades (I also ordered my ARC-1 and am eagerly awaiting its arrival), but I am looking to get a new cd player and was wondering if anyone out there has any suggestions as to players that 'play well' with the D2. I have a SFI centered system- D2, A5 & A2, Paradigm S4 speakers.
> 
> I'm planning to spend in the $2-3k range.
> 
> Just wondering if there is anyone out there with similar set-up that could suggest a cd player to me to help narrow my hunt.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



10 OPPO's? 5 XA1's?


Perhaps I am out of my element here










Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13390534
> 
> 
> Looking forward to reading about your experience and results.



Hopefully it won't be a replay of the Peter O'Toole, Jose Ferrer scene IF you know what I mean.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13390635
> 
> 
> This may be a little off topic with all the excitement and questions about the ARC-1 and software upgrades (I also ordered my ARC-1 and am eagerly awaiting its arrival), but I am looking to get a new cd player and was wondering if anyone out there has any suggestions as to players that 'play well' with the D2. I have a SFI centered system- D2, A5 & A2, Paradigm S4 speakers.
> 
> I'm planning to spend in the $2-3k range.
> 
> Just wondering if there is anyone out there with similar set-up that could suggest a cd player to me to help narrow my hunt.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



I see RRosen has already given some good advice. But I have a couple of questions. Are you looking for CD playback only? No SACD, DVDA?

Your stated budget of 2-3k, kind of puts you in no man's land.

One tack would be to go cheap on the transport and let the D2 to processing.

This would make an OPPO the obvious choice. You get SACD and DVD-A for "free". You could have your OPPO superclock modded and still be under budget.

If you're going for a stand-alone using analog outs, I would recommend getting a Denon 3930, 5910, or an Ayre. A new Ayre is going to set you back more than your stated budget but it is, imo, as good as it gets.


----------



## AnthemAVM

I made a mess of my remote, trying to program it. Is there a way to get it back to the factory settings?


Thanks


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/13390908
> 
> 
> I made a mess of my remote, trying to program it. Is there a way to get it back to the factory settings?
> 
> 
> Thanks



From the manual, page 69:


To erase user memory press and hold LEARN until the LED flashes twice. Then press 9, 8, 0.


Appendix B: To reset the MAIN to D2 default:

Press the control mode key near the top of the remote (EX: Main)

Press and Hold the LEARN key until the LED flashes twice

Enter the 5 digit code. Two LED blinks indicate that the code was accepted


D1/2, AVM 20/30/40/50 for MAIN: 31185

D1/2, AVM 20/30/40/50 for Zone2: 31186

D1/2, AVM 20/30/40/50 for Zone3: 31187


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13390948
> 
> 
> From the manual, page 69:
> 
> 
> To erase user memory press and hold LEARN until the LED flashes twice. Then press 9, 8, 0.
> 
> 
> Appendix B: To reset the MAIN to D2 default:
> 
> Press the control mode key near the top of the remote (EX: Main)
> 
> Press and Hold the LEARN key until the LED flashes twice
> 
> Enter the 5 digit code. Two LED blinks indicate that the code was accepted
> 
> 
> D1/2, AVM 20/30/40/50 for MAIN: 31185
> 
> D1/2, AVM 20/30/40/50 for Zone2: 31186
> 
> D1/2, AVM 20/30/40/50 for Zone3: 31187
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Thanks


----------



## tngiloy

I see RRosen has already given some good advice. But I have a couple of questions. Are you looking for CD playback only? No SACD, DVDA?

Your stated budget of 2-3k, kind of puts you in no man's land.

One tack would be to go cheap on the transport and let the D2 to processing.

This would make an OPPO the obvious choice. You get SACD and DVD-A for "free". You could have your OPPO superclock modded and still be under budget.

If you're going for a stand-alone using analog outs, I would recommend getting a Denon 3930, 5910, or an Ayre. A new Ayre is going to set you back more than your stated budget but it is, imo, as good as it gets.[/quote]


I own the Oppo 980h and find it a wonderful dvd transport when paired with the d2. I think it also plays dvd-a and sacd well. It matched my Denon 3930ci ,that I just sold, in dvd-a and sacd playback to my surprise and delight. But it can't touch my Creek Destiny for redbook cd playback. I own 5-10 dvd-a and sacd's, and 1,200 cd's.

I bought the D2 as much for its audio strengths as for its video capabilities, and spend an equal amount of time using it for music and movies.

The Creek is a good cd player, but I was looking for some suggestions for a great cd player. The ayre cx7e is on my short list, but I'm still open to other suggestions.

Thanks for your input.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13390635
> 
> 
> This may be a little off topic with all the excitement and questions about the ARC-1 and software upgrades (I also ordered my ARC-1 and am eagerly awaiting its arrival), but I am looking to get a new cd player and was wondering if anyone out there has any suggestions as to players that 'play well' with the D2. I have a SFI centered system- D2, A5 & A2, Paradigm S4 speakers.
> 
> I'm planning to spend in the $2-3k range.
> 
> Just wondering if there is anyone out there with similar set-up that could suggest a cd player to me to help narrow my hunt.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



Tom, in your price range I'd try the Rega Saturn.

It's very fine CD player. I've listened to it and think it's one of the best in it's price category.
http://www.rega.co.uk/html/Saturn.htm


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13391239
> 
> 
> Tom, in your price range I'd try the Rega Saturn.
> 
> It's very fine CD player. I've listened to it and think it's one of the best in it's price category.
> http://www.rega.co.uk/html/Saturn.htm



BMF,

Thanks. There is a rega dealer pretty close. I'm not sure I like the 'pop-up' lid for loading, and if I remember right from the saturn manual, it can't be turned off/on by a remote. But its gotten great reviews- stereophile class A recommended I think- so its on my list.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13389647
> 
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> This is my first post but I have a question. I have an older D2, started at v1.0 then had my dealer upgrade my unit to v1.04. Recently, I upgraded again to v1.21d after which I lost component video output. I tried to reload three more times, no luck, packed it up and took it to my local dealer he also had no luck with consistant component video output, HDMI output worked ok, although I have no HDMI displays. My dealer installed v1.29k, I now have component video output but after I do multible powerup/power downs and when I switch from one input to another I'm getting digital blocking and comb patterns and then the picture finally shows up. I called Anthem tech support and they recommend upgrading to v1.30a or v1.31. I wanted to hear/read any thoughts or input on this. I wish I had never upgraded from v1.04, I guess I thought an upgrade was moving up to something better and not a repair or fix for something that wasnt broken.
> 
> Any thoughts, opinions, ideas or recommendations are truly welcome as my warrenty on the video side is almost out.
> 
> 
> Thanks,EAnderson



The advice from Anthem tech support is correct. Upgrade to the latest software version which is V1.31.


In addition to specific Component video fixes there are fixes related to the reliability of the installation of the firmware itself from various versions of Windows PC, and fixes to the startup sequence when turning on the D2 to make it more robust. This version of the software should also operate more reliably on original production D2 hardware than some of the V1.21x test versions.


In the end, it may turn out you do have a hardware problem that will require a warranty repair, but I suspect that moving to V1.31 (not V1.30a) will do the trick for you.


At the very least it will make it easier for Anthem tech support to sort out what is going on in your unit since it will eliminate the possibility that you are being bitten by one of the older Component video, install reliability, or startup reliability bugs that they know they have now fixed.


Be sure to follow the upgrade instructions carefully -- don't skip any steps. As it turns out the most unreliable upgrade for the Anthem was from 1.04 to anything else due to the degree of changes made at that point. But if you follow the instructions, including, in particular, Reloading Factory Defaults before you do the new firmware install, you should be fine.


I think you will also be quite pleasantly surprised at the improved video quality since V1.04 once you get the new firmware running properly.


-------------------------------------------------


Once the firmware is installed, double check your Setup and Video Source Adjust settings. In particular make sure that Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF is set for each input. You will have additional "overlayed" inputs (e.g. DVD2 vs. DVD1) and additional Video Output configurations compared to V1.04. "Disable" the ones you aren't using so you don't select one by accident.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13388016
> 
> 
> The ARC "Room EQ" processing can be turned ON or OFF per input source in the Setup / Source Setup menu for each source.
> 
> 
> You could even setup two "overlayed" input sources (e.g., DVD1 vs. DVD2) where the only difference is whether ARC is on or not, which means you can A/B things simply by selecting the alternate input source via the remote.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that you will have to do a full, careful, manual setup of your speakers, bass management, and such for you to get any useful comparison here between the best you can do manually and what ARC will do for you. And you will also need to leave any external settings (e.g., control settings in your subwoofer, speaker positioning and the like) identical -- which means if you decide to change any of that due to ARC tests you will need to recheck/adjust your manual configuration as well to work with those external changes before you can do any meaningful A/B comparisons.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Just keep in mind that you will not be able to conduct an *instant* A/B with digital sources but you should be able to with analog.


In other words, there will be a slight resync delay which might make it more difficult to notice the eq. results. At least that's been my experience.










Jim


----------



## drmabuse

I thought I would post briefly as some of you may have surmised I am part of the beta test group of ARC.

I updated my D2 with 1.31 yesterday and it seems very stable. My video switching is very stable, I have CablePVR, Blu-Ray, HD-DVD and standard DVD all operating on HDMI and I seen no problems. 1.29k was causing some odd "green screen" adjustments when switching but that is now gone.

For those of you wondering about the status of ARC, I have had 2 software updates this week after a few weeks of nothing and I am quite comfortable to say that the most recent software has my system sounding better than I have ever heard it. I am running 7.1 with 2 subs and the struggle with x-overs and such has been unending for me. The ARC has completely fixed my problems.

The bass is seamlessly integrated into music which is how it should be and the LFE on movies is nothing short of breathtaking. I watched "Beowulf" on HD-DVD (truly a reference level disc) and was sure my neighbours 5 doors down could feel the rumble. Even my wife mentioned (and she is not one to do this) how great it sounded. Her comment was 'it is loud but not annoying" - LOL - I am sure many of you understand that.

My primary point here I guess is I have been testing ARC since late Fall through many software changes and upgrades. The wait for it to be rolled out to everyone has been long but worth it.

Anthem has GOT IT RIGHT!


----------



## uppacreek

I upgraded to v1.31 today and voila, no more MPCM crackling! Everything is running perfectly now.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13392215
> 
> 
> I thought I would post briefly as some of you may have surmised I am part of the beta test group of ARC.



How do you think ARC will handle my 7.6 setup out of the D2.


I have 6 LFE channels being derived from the 1 LFE channel

out of the D2. External to the D2 - I have individual LFE

controls for the 6 LFE channels.


Do you think I should run ARC 6 times (1) for each LFE

and then Use my external 6 LFE adjustments after running

ARC 6 Times.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13391336
> 
> 
> BMF,
> 
> Thanks. There is a rega dealer pretty close. I'm not sure I like the 'pop-up' lid for loading, and if I remember right from the saturn manual, it can't be turned off/on by a remote. But its gotten great reviews- stereophile class A recommended I think- so its on my list.



It sounds very natural, analog like. You just leave the player on most of the time. You don't really have to turn it on & off every time you use it.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13392466
> 
> 
> How do you think ARC will handle my 7.6 setup out of the D2.
> 
> 
> I have 6 LFE channels being derived from the 1 LFE channel
> 
> out of the D2. External to the D2 - I have individual LFE
> 
> controls for the 6 LFE channels.
> 
> 
> Do you think I should run ARC 6 times (1) for each LFE
> 
> and then Use my external 6 LFE adjustments after running
> 
> ARC 6 Times.




Hi,

The ARC software will drive a signal out of the D2 which will in turn produce sweeps from all the subs at once. I assume your subs are running out of sub1/2 from the D2 into something else or linked somehow? I have a Velodyne SMS-1 but have removed it from the equation as I felt the ARC should be able to do what it was doing more efficiently.


I don't think running ARC multiple times will do anything. Once the sweeps are done the ARC calculates for each position (F, C, F, LS, LR, RR, RS, Sub) which are then available to see on your computer. There would be no way within the ARC process to sweep each sub on it's own.


I am honestly not sure how this would work.


----------



## Milt99

drmabuse,

Thanks for your feedback. I also have a 7.1 system with 2 subs and integrating the subs with my mains for music is pretty good but I feel it could be better.

I understand the possible reticence of ARC beta users to heap praise on the before\\after results as everyone's system and perceptions are different.

One would have to think that D2 owners already have well-performing systems so I don't expect a night & day difference but more of a refinement.


It is good the hear that the firmware has reached a solid level for people.

One thing you can say about Anthem, they never stop trying. Sometimes it seems 2 steps forward and one step back but I know of no other company that has put this kind of effort into a piece of gear.

It probably makes them wish they just made amps.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drmabuse,

The problem with multiple subs is that ARC only has one set of Phase, Polarity, Volume Level, Subwoofer Distance, and Cross Over parameters available to play with in the D2. Whatever it adds in terms of bass frequency filtering to correct for room response can't ALSO fiddle with those separately for each sub.


Having taken your Velodyne SMS-1 out of the equation, you then did what? Set each sub's internal phase and polarity controls to 0? Left their internal cross overs disabled? Left their internal volume controls set to some random level?


Depending on your room's actual response, and the luck of how much your subs are actually in phase and volume balanced, the response to running multiple subs may be better or worse.


Consider the extreme cases with just 2 subs: If one sub's internal volume is nearly off and the other is nearly at max then the results from running ARC will be as if you only had that second sub. ARC, run normally, can't detect or change the bad setting for the first sub.


And if you have 2 subs which just happen to be 180 degrees out of phase with each other then they are going to largely cancel each other. ARC will detect poor room response (bad bass) and work to correct it, but the degree of correction is has to attempt to do will be much greater than if the 2 subs had been put in phase beforehand.


---------------------------------------------


So what's to do? I'm not sure.


One possibility is to turn off ARC and use the Anthem's internal test tones to volume balance all of your subs by connecting them one at a time and setting their INTERNAL volume control to produce the same SPL reading. During this, the Anthem's speaker levels can be at any setting that produces useful volume so long as it is not changed between adjusting each separate subwoofer's internal volume. This volume balancing for the subs need not be super precise since they will all be playing the same content, will naturally blend, and will be non-directional (not easy for the ear to locate the source of the sound) when finally set up correctly. But they should be at least "roughly" close in volume using their internal controls, assuming all of them are capable of matching at some useful, target volume level. Obviously you don't want to set any of the subs so high that they distort or bottom out. If you have a sub that you can't set high enough in volume, then set it where it doesn't distort.


Any internal cross over control in each sub should be disabled or set to the highest possible frequency if it can't be disabled.


Having done that, you could then do a phase test with each sub in turn (all by itself) operating in conjunction with a given speaker such as the LF main speaker. To do that you will need to use a calibration DVD since there is no Anthem internal test tone to drive 2 speakers like this, and I don't believe ARC offers one either. Again, the Anthem Phase and Polarity controls should probably be set to 0 while doing this, but any fixed setting for those ought to be sufficient as long as it isn't changed between testing each subwoofer.


Generally you would start with the subwoofer's internal polarity control set to normal for a sub in the front of the room and to inverted for a sub at the back of the room. You then want to adjust each subwoofer's internal phase control to maximize the perceived bass when each subwoofer is playing in conjunction with LF (which means you are minimizing cancellation between that sub and LF). Cancellation happens near the cross over frequency (the top of the frequency range for the noise generated by subwoofer phase test on the calibration DVD). That means that bad phase will also sound like ONLY the deepest tones are being heard while good phase will mean higher frequency portions of the test tone are ALSO heard. Using a mic and a bass response graphing system allows you to do this more precisely (you could do this with your SMS-1 so long as you do NOT alter the controls in the SMS-1 but only the internal Polarity and Phase controls built into each subwoofer), but one of the key advantages of using multiple subs is that phasing issues are almost always reduced automatically ANYWAY just due to the the spacing of the subwoofers in the room so the "by ear" approach may very well be sufficient. And frankly, using a bass graphing system might be more confusing simply because you will mostly be seeing the results of uncorrected room response instead of just phasing. So I think I'd go with the "by ear" approach -- taking some time to step through the Phase settings and learning to hear the difference (it is kind of subtle). Ideally, you should step through this for both Polarity settings for each sub, to see if either Polarity setting produces a significantly better result. The upshot is that each sub's internal controls are now set to have it "roughly" in phase with LF, and thus all the subs are ALSO roughly in phase with EACH OTHER -- which is the key thing you are trying to achieve.


[NOTE TO NEWBIES: Phase and Polarity have to do with whether the driver element (the cone) of the subwoofer is moving out or in at the same time the low frequency driver element of the mains is moving out or in. If they are "in phase" together then they combine to produce stronger bass for frequencies near the cross over frequency where both the sub and the mains are producing sound. If they are "out of phase" they tend to cancel near those frequencies producing poor bass response for the frequencies near the cross over -- i.e., they don't blend seamlessly. The Polarity control reverses the subwoofer's direction of cone travel across all frequencies, just like reversing the two wires to the sub. The Phase control alters the subwoofer's phasing just for frequencies closer to the top of its range (i.e., near the normal cross-over setting) according to some specific response curve built into whatever is implementing that Phase adjustment. This means that inverting Polarity and swinging Phase around by 180 degrees is NOT the same thing. Whether two speakers are in phase or not also depends upon their relative distance from the listening position. The Anthem's Listener Position (speaker distance) adjustment takes care of this for the main speakers themselves presuming you have all of your mains wired with the same polarity. The reason you want to correct Phase to minimize cancellations is that it takes A LOT of bass amp power to overcome a cancellation. That's harder on the sub, and may not even be doable. When using multiple subwoofers, the issue of relative phase between each pair of them also has to be addressed. Getting each, in turn, setup to be in phase with the mains, means they are as a result also automatically in phase with each other.]


Now with those preliminaries out of the way it should be possible to run ARC with all subs connected simultaneously and get the best results you can get from that combination of subs.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

In doing previous software upgrades I used a USB to serial adapter is there any reason to believe that this will not work with v1.31?


----------



## Milt99

Nice deconstruction Bob. Makes sense.

Has anyone asked Anthem about this?


----------



## Joe C5

Would there be an interest in a limited comparison of the D2 (no ARC) with the new Denon AVP (similar price)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Joe,

I'd like to see a comparison. There's almost always something useful to learn when comparing high end products.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13393090
> 
> 
> 
> Having taken your Velodyne SMS-1 out of the equation, you then did what? Set each sub's internal phase and polarity controls to 0? Both of my subs (ML Depths) are at the back of the room in opposite corners. They are polarity inverted and crossover disabled. Their internal volumes are both set the same.
> 
> 
> Depending on your room's actual response, and the luck of how much your subs are actually in phase and volume balanced, the response to running multiple subs may be better or worse.
> 
> 
> Consider the extreme cases with just 2 subs: If one sub's internal volume is nearly off and the other is nearly at max then the results from running ARC will be as if you only had that second sub. ARC, run normally, can't detect or change the bad setting for the first sub.True which is why I have both set the same, whether it is the right thing I am not sure but I am relying on my ears as the final judge. I have experimented relentlessly with bass to get it to what I perceive as "right for my ears" and interestingly enough when the ARC was finished my x-over settings all around were close to where I had them but not the same.
> 
> The other thing that was interesting was when I calibrated my setup to the internal D2 test tones with an SPL meter all of my speakers seem to be setting to a higher volume than when the ARC was done. The outcome of this is I now run my system at a higher volume "on the dial" but I feel less fatigue and sense greater depth and imaging. I am not an electronic engineer, just a stereo hobbyist and this development I found very interesting. Not sure why the internal test tones and SPL would have been determining that I set volumes so much higher


Although the D2 is a very sophisticated piece of equipment I think the ARC's success should lie in the ability of a novice to plug everything in and let ARC do it's thing similar to the Audyssey experience. I applied that rationale of thinking to my beta testing trying to minimize "tweaking" to see if it could deliver. In my belief, the ARC should do what the SMS-1 is doing and the graph I looked at that the ARC provided on my sub response looked very similar to what I had gotten after playing with the SMS-1. The beauty of the ARC is I did not have to do the calculation, it did it for me.


In many situations my set-up is elaborate but there are a lot of users on here that certainly have much more gear. It will be interesting to see what happens with some of them.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drmabuse,

Yes it will be interesting to see how things work over the range of users we have posting here. Some of the folks with multiple subs are combining different subwoofer models, which will add its own wrinkle.


As for your volume difference, it may be nothing more than that room correction systems like this work much better if they are reducing peaks rather than boosting dips. Automated systems will have that bias built in. That means they naturally reduce overall volume a bit.


And of course there is the common effect that good audio is less tiring at higher volumes so it feels better to crank things up a bit when the audio is better.


Anyway, thanks a lot for your report! I want my ARC!

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13392644
> 
> 
> I assume your subs are running out of sub1/2 from the D2



What is Sub 1/2?


I'll have to look in my manual to see what Sub 1/2 is????


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13393406
> 
> 
> What is Sub 1/2?
> 
> 
> I'll have to look in my manual to see what Sub 1/2 is????



There are 2 sub outs on the back of the D2 and you can configure inside the setup to use both.


/\\/\\


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13393374
> 
> 
> 
> ! I want my ARC!
> 
> --Bob



Me to - where is IT?


Last time I tried ordering --- I couldn't.


I wait until you guys start getting yours


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13393414
> 
> 
> There are 2 sub outs on the back of the D2 and you can configure inside the setup to use both.
> 
> 
> /\\/\\



WELL there you go - A Person who READS the manual










I will investigate that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13393455
> 
> 
> WELL there you go - A Person who READS the manual
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will investigate that.



There are actually FOUR sub outputs in the D2 (2 RCA and 2 XLR). They carry the identical signal except for the standard 6dB volume difference between RCA and XLR outputs. That is, there is only one set of sub controls in the D2 and those control affect the output on all 4 of those jacks identically, and the same source content is sent to all 4 of those jacks.


The Setup item for 1 sub vs. 2 subs simply has the affect of lowering the calibration volume level to account for the extra driver in the room. It is merely a convenience item. It doesn't cause the jacks to carry distinct, or separately controllable bass signals for example.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765

I also have 2 subs and what bob says is generally correct as usual. I set all sub volumes to about 1/3 volume to start with. Turn the second sub off. Disable the sub;s crossovers and set the D2 phase and polarity to zero. I then use my SMS to phase the first sub with the left front speaker to reach the highest output with the phase control of the sub 1. Readjust your volume on the first sub if necessary. now turn on sub 2 and using the SMS 1 adjust the phase on the second sub for the highest and smoothest output. I don't use the EQ part of the SMS1 , I just use it as a visual so I can see the response. You can also get very close using the same method with a Radio Shack meter, however you need 2 people to do it in a reasonable amount of time. This info was sent to me by SVS and it works superbly. If you want a little more chest throbbing bass use your SMS to bump it up 3 or 4 db between 40 to 60 hz.


Hope this helps.

Dmorse


----------



## Joe C5

I trust Bob, so here goes...


First let me say, both of these are mine, in my place, with my stuff. Yes there is probably some psychology involved (the Denon being the latest purchased and all), but I will try to compare them the best I can.


The room, well sucks. It's huge (by my standards), vaulted, and has no acoustical treatments (other than carpet, couch and curtains). The bass is out of control and needs a lot of work. Plus the room opens into the rest of the house (though small), so I'm sure that affects the sound - you have been notified










The equipment - not bad, but nothing like what some of you have. The mains are Infinity Prelude MTS (and the surrounds are older less capable Infinity speakers). The Amps are Acoustic Reality Ear-2 for the mains, and an Outlaw 7500 (XLR) for the center and surrounds (so that's 300W for the mains and 200W for the surrounds). Cables are all cheap (though XLR to all the amps and very large gauge bi-wired for the fronts). The processors are of course the D2 and the AVP. I have an Oppo 970, PS-3, Pioneer HD1 / Denon 2500, Toshiba XA2, a Denon 3910, and a Pioneer DVL-90. The TV is a Sony Q006 (1080i only).


Me - I have decent eyesight, and can see quite a few artifacts - slightly above average let's say (I don't do films for a living - nor music). I have decent ears, but am not as critical as some (notice the above cheap cables).


On to the fun (and this should be fun yes?).


Weight - My *** that Denon is heavy. At least Anthem used some aluminum in there to hold the weight down. It is huge too. I had to put it on top of my apparently smallish stand (scary). It does not have the ear problem the D2 has (made it hard to get in and out), but goes so far back none of the cables would fit (HDMI). Another reason it went on top. Oh, and it's just as bad about heat output (I'm a fiend about keeping temperatures down - must be my EE background).


Video, this is complex, as there are two things at odds here. The Denon by default is really not much more than a HDMI switch. This is actually good (in a way). Believe it or not, the video looks much better, and there are fewer issues. Think about that for a second. It's really only a switch (ok a smart switch that steals audio). Therefore there is zero processing going on, and you can see this by a slightly more detailed picture (think about it, scale 1 pixel wider and you have sacrificed some detail). I was surprised by this. Ok, that was nice, but here is where the Denon falls flat on it's face. It scales ok (I have not done a detailed comparison, but it seems similar), but there are problems. Denon went the minimalist approach, so there is no gamma or any of the other sophisticated controls available. No big deal to me, but it could be a big issue for some. It might be impossible to attach to some systems because of this (again, no problem for me now). Also, for analog there appears to be significant issues. So far I have failed to get my LD player black levels correct. It's almost as if Denon used the HD levels for the analog. They are about 7.5 IRE too high, and get this - they only allow for positive adjustment. Therefore so far there is no way to attach the LD player and watch it (ugly). Fairly useless. So for video in a non-complex system with only HDMI, Denon is very good. Not so much for analog or more complex systems. Please note, I have only been playing for a couple of days, so I may find more capability later.


Connectivity - well, it's got a boatload of inputs that's for sure. The ethernet connectivity is nice too, but mostly becasue you can set it up from any computer on the network. So many things have network play capability I'm not sure it's that big a deal. As far as flexability, so far I like the Anthem with the multiple setup of each input. For instance, if I do get the LD working, I'm not sure how to handle the sound. It wants me to pick only one - unfortunatly with AC-3 certain disks will be on one input and others on another...


Audio (CD and such) - hmm, let me just say they are in the same class (my opinion only).


Advanced audio (SACD, etc) - I'm going to have to give the nod to Denon here, but there are lots of compications. For instance I can now use the Dennon-Link for SACD (though the PS-3 is no slouch). Oppo fans stop reading here... I was using the Oppo for SACD and such, but I'm sorry, the 970 sucks big wind on ALL high res audio. Even my semi-educated ears can hear a huge difference (though I am keeping it for a DVD transport). As big a difference as there is between the Oppo and the PS3 (which I have been using instead for quite a while), to me there is an ever so slight difference between the D2 and the AVP. Not anything big (very small difference). Depending on the equipment, I suspect folks could go either way (except for those who can hear the difference between cables - they might think I'm crazy







).


Movie audio - we are talking HD-DVD and Blu-Ray here. I'm sure when the good players with internal decoding are out there will be no difference (much), but WOW, Master Audio and HD audio are great. I was probably doing something totally wrong with my Pioneer, but I have yet to hear as detailed and dynamic scores until I changed over to the AVP/2500 pair. Probably nothing to do with the D2 vs AVP, but having it - I can't go back. This is as big a difference as the OPPO / PS3 to me. (It's really one of the major reasons I did this).


Bottom line - sorry, there is no bottom line for these. They each have their strengths and weaknesses. I think it more depends on your tastes and what equipment you have as to which is appropriate for someone (again in my opinion). For now the AVP will be my main unit because of the movies







.


And please remember, this is a quick comparison, by one person, who is just a "user", not a trained professional, or self proclaimed videophile/audiophile. They will have their own more educated opinions (I have a flame suit, but prefer not to have to put it on)...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks Joe.


Obviously details of setup/calibration and the pairing with other equipment can affect this stuff too.

--Bob


----------



## cobracalde

I can't upgrade to 1.31 firmware.

My D2 has 1.11 official firmware. When i try to upgrade (with serial port, not usb-serial) this is the message:

"Eeprom programming failed"

I don't have any problem with 1.11 installer.


Maybe... i have to upgrade to a prior version... and then to 1.31?


P.S.: sorry for my poor english.. i'm learning your language.. but only one hour every week...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13393513
> 
> 
> There are actually FOUR sub outputs in the D2 (2 RCA and 2 XLR). They carry the identical signal except for the standard 6dB volume difference between RCA and XLR outputs. That is, there is only one set of sub controls in the D2 and those control affect the output on all 4 of those jacks identically, and the same source content is sent to all 4 of those jacks.
> 
> 
> The Setup item for 1 sub vs. 2 subs simply has the affect of lowering the calibration volume level to account for the extra driver in the room. It is merely a convenience item. It doesn't cause the jacks to carry distinct, or separately controllable bass signals for example.
> 
> --Bob



Oh - THANKS Bob for the EDUCATION - it saves

me from READING the Manual Now










I'll stay with my EXTERNAL system that lets

me individually control output and crossover

Freq for the 6 LFE channels







all based on

the Single LFE output of the D2.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/13394445
> 
> 
> Maybe... i have to upgrade to a prior version... and then to 1.31?



The upgrade instructions say you should

be able to go from 1.11 to 1.31


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/13394445
> 
> 
> I can't upgrade to 1.31 firmware.
> 
> My D2 has 1.11 official firmware. When i try to upgrade (with serial port, not usb-serial) this is the message:
> 
> "Eeprom programming failed"
> 
> I don't have any problem with 1.11 installer.
> 
> 
> Maybe... i have to upgrade to a prior version... and then to 1.31?
> 
> 
> P.S.: sorry for my poor english.. i'm learning your language.. but only one hour every week...



Make sure you follow the installation instructions correctly.


In particular make sure that you do not have any powered HDMI connections to the D2 while doing the firmware install. Be aware that many HDMI source and display devices leave their HDMI sockets powered even though the device appears to be OFF. What I recommend is that you disconnect all sources AND your display from wall power before doing the D2 firmware install whether or not you are using HDMI.


Also, note that you MUST "Restore Factory Defaults" in the D2's Setup / Save and Restore Settings menu prior to doing the firmware install.


Also make sure nothing else is running on your Windows PC during the install and that your Windows PC will not go to Sleep during the install.


Finally, there are rather rare situations where a failed firmware install (for ANY reason) can leave some portion of the D2 in a state where it won't accept a new install. If you can re-install V1.11 without problem then this is not likely to be your problem, but if you think you MIGHT have this problem, Anthem tech support can send you a Windows program that forces all of the programmable parts of the D2 back to the state where they can accept a new install attempt. Contact Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13394723
> 
> 
> The upgrade instructions say you should
> 
> be able to go from 1.11 to 1.31



Yes, from readme:



> Quote:
> FAQ: Do I need to load previous versions prior to this update?
> 
> A: No.



But... i can't...










No problems with 1.11 installer or live video settings editor 1.2


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13394749
> 
> 
> Make sure you follow the installation instructions correctly.



Yes Bob..


I followed these instructions:



> Quote:
> 1.) Shut off the D2 using the rear power switch.
> 
> 2.) Removed all HDMI inputs and output.
> 
> 3.) Plugged-in the RS-232 connector.
> 
> 4.) Powered up unit from rear.
> 
> 5.) Used Live View to turn on unit, get current settings and save.
> 
> 6.) Used remote to save current settings via setup menu.
> 
> 7.) Restored Factory Defaults.
> 
> 8.) Shut off unit via Front Panel.
> 
> 9.) Cycled on/off rear power switch.
> 
> 10.) Uploaded firmware
> 
> 11.) Turned on unit via Front Panel and after 30 sec. shut down.
> 
> 12.) Turned on unit via Front Panel and loaded Factory Defaults, then loaded my saved settings.
> 
> 13.) Opened Live View and loaded my saved settings and uploaded to D2.
> 
> 14.) Turned of unit via Front Panel and shut down rear power.
> 
> 15.) Removed Rs-232 connector and plugged-in HDMI Inputs and output.
> 
> 16.) Turned on Rear Switch and powered up D2



It works with 1.11 but with 1.31 it doesn't..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/13394784
> 
> 
> Yes Bob..
> 
> 
> I followed these instructions:
> 
> 
> It works with 1.11 but with 1.31 it doesn't..



Sorry, then, but I don't have any answers for you. You'll need to try to work this with Anthem tech support.


They made changes in V1.30, V1.30a, and V1.31 in how the installer works with certain PC configurations. Perhaps they broke something with regards to your computer. (If possible, try using a different PC.)


You may also have a hardware fault in your D2 that is not found by the V1.11 install due to the larger size of the V1.31 install.


My bet would be it is a problem with the V1.31 installer and your PC. So if you can take the Anthem to another PC and try the install on a new PC that would probably be a good step while waiting to hear back from Anthem.


If you DO find the install works correctly using another PC, please do pass on the details (both PCs) to Anthem!

--Bob


----------



## cobracalde

Ok Bob. I emailed Nick..


----------



## netroamer

I loaded 1.31 yesterday over 1.29k. At first I had the same problem with switching inputs. The screen went to complete snow and no muting took place. I remembered a comment Nik had made to me earlier about the letterbox gray shade in the video setup menu. I changed the shade from "Black" to another shade, saved the changes, and presto, muting came back. I don't know whether it's the change of shade from Black or just the fact that I saved a new change to the memory that corrects this problem, but either way it works.


John


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13390635
> 
> 
> This may be a little off topic with all the excitement and questions about the ARC-1 and software upgrades (I also ordered my ARC-1 and am eagerly awaiting its arrival), but I am looking to get a new cd player and was wondering if anyone out there has any suggestions as to players that 'play well' with the D2. I have a SFI centered system- D2, A5 & A2, Paradigm S4 speakers.
> 
> I'm planning to spend in the $2-3k range.
> 
> Just wondering if there is anyone out there with similar set-up that could suggest a cd player to me to help narrow my hunt.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



The Cambridge Azur 840C is getting rave reviews, but it is lower than your price point.


I have a modded Roksan Kandy MkIII which gives me really good sound. This gets you to your budget.


However, the point of interest to me is the difference in sound if I use the player's analog outs vs using the player as a transport and letting the D2 do the decoding. In my set up, I cannot tell the difference between the 2










I have quite expensive analogue interconnects but used moderately priced digital cable when using the Roksan as a transport. With the benefit of this hindsight, maybe I should have used the money spent on the interconnects to have bought myself a better transport instead of the modded Roksan.


I guess what I am eluding to is: an alternative for you might be to buy a decent transport and let the D2 do the decoding. I wish I had more information for you to give you direction.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13395280
> 
> 
> I loaded 1.31 yesterday over 1.29k. At first I had the same problem with switching inputs. The screen went to complete snow and no muting took place. I remembered a comment Nik had made to me earlier about the letterbox gray shade in the video setup menu. I changed the shade from "Black" to another shade, saved the changes, and presto, muting came back. I don't know whether it's the change of shade from Black or just the fact that I saved a new change to the memory that corrects this problem, but either way it works.
> 
> 
> John



Good tip! Thanks for posting that.

--Bob


----------



## EAnderson

Thanks Bob for your reply, I'll try v1.31 tonight. I truly hope your right about my component video problems, I worry that switching the D2 on and off to get video up on screen will shorten the life of the D2. I do plan to use the ARC-1 once I see all the problems are ironed out and all the units (new and older) operate as intended, so having v1.31 onboard should'nt be a bad idea. Wish me luck, I'll let you all know how it works out.


Thanks, E. Anderson


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/13395395
> 
> 
> The Cambridge Azur 840C is getting rave reviews, but it is lower than your price point.
> 
> 
> I have a modded Roksan Kandy MkIII which gives me really good sound. This gets you to your budget.
> 
> 
> However, the point of interest to me is the difference in sound if I use the player's analog outs vs using the player as a transport and letting the D2 do the decoding. In my set up, I cannot tell the difference between the 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have quite expensive analogue interconnects but used moderately priced digital cable when using the Roksan as a transport. With the benefit of this hindsight, maybe I should have used the money spent on the interconnects to have bought myself a better transport instead of the modded Roksan.
> 
> 
> I guess what I am eluding to is: an alternative for you might be to buy a decent transport and let the D2 do the decoding. I wish I had more information for you to give you direction.



Thanks for the input Kruginator.

I did try the Azur 840c and was very disappointed. I had sold my Creek Classic cdp while my D2 was in the great white north getting a new video board a few months back thinking that the 840c would be an upgrade. I really liked my Creek, but went on the basis of the great reviews the Azur was getting. I bought the Cambridge thru Audio Advisor and was sent a used unit that may have been bad. I tried connecting it analog, both balanced and unbalanced and digital coax with no difference. All bad.I returned the Cambridge, but the experience had left a bad taste in my mouth and I decided to get the Creek Destiny cdp. I figured that if I loved the Classic that I would really love the Destiny. The destiny is good, but I think the Classic was far better, even though it cost $1000 less.

That wil teach me not to leave good enough alone. Sometimes the enemy of good is better.

I decided to compare the Oppo 980h with the Destiny today for cd playback. The Destiny was better, but the Oppo was pretty darn close. Considering it cost 1/10th as much that says alot. I have tried other $200 cdp's before that were nowhere near to the quality of the Oppo.

I do like listening to cd's so my hunt will continue. I think I have it narrowed down to a Meridian g06 or an Ayre cx7e. Both are a little above my initial budget, but it won't be the first time I've exceeded my a/v budget, and probably not the last. I can stay on budget if I buy thru Audiogon.

I think I'll google the Roskan now. Thanks

Tom


----------



## ninja12

I just finished loading 1.31, and I am still getting a blank screen when I try to enter the setup menu. Is anyone else experiencing this problem?


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13390635
> 
> 
> This may be a little off topic with all the excitement and questions about the ARC-1 and software upgrades (I also ordered my ARC-1 and am eagerly awaiting its arrival), but I am looking to get a new cd player and was wondering if anyone out there has any suggestions as to players that 'play well' with the D2. I have a SFI centered system- D2, A5 & A2, Paradigm S4 speakers.
> 
> I'm planning to spend in the $2-3k range.
> 
> Just wondering if there is anyone out there with similar set-up that could suggest a cd player to me to help narrow my hunt.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



Not sure if you're looking for a cd transport to feed the D2 with or just the standalone unit as a separate entity, but the Esoteric DV50 (used ones are available on Audiogon) is a great unit. I have the Esoteric P70/D70 and their stuff is built like the proverbial [email protected] brickhouse! Very quick, smooth, and reliable. Sound great too.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13394708
> 
> 
> Oh - THANKS Bob for the EDUCATION - it saves
> 
> me from READING the Manual Now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll stay with my EXTERNAL system that lets
> 
> me individually control output and crossover
> 
> Freq for the 6 LFE channels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all based on
> 
> the Single LFE output of the D2.



C'mon doc don't leave us hanging, what are the 6 subs you have?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13396853
> 
> 
> C'mon doc don't leave us hanging, what are the 6 subs you have?



I don't know about the other 5, but one of them turns his entire home theater into a Low Rider. Look at it bounce!


(grin!)


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13396160
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input Kruginator.
> 
> I did try the Azur 840c and was very disappointed. I had sold my Creek Classic cdp while my D2 was in the great white north getting a new video board a few months back thinking that the 840c would be an upgrade. I really liked my Creek, but went on the basis of the great reviews the Azur was getting. I bought the Cambridge thru Audio Advisor and was sent a used unit that may have been bad. I tried connecting it analog, both balanced and unbalanced and digital coax with no difference. All bad.I returned the Cambridge, but the experience had left a bad taste in my mouth and I decided to get the Creek Destiny cdp. I figured that if I loved the Classic that I would really love the Destiny. The destiny is good, but I think the Classic was far better, even though it cost $1000 less.
> 
> That wil teach me not to leave good enough alone. Sometimes the enemy of good is better.
> 
> I decided to compare the Oppo 980h with the Destiny today for cd playback. The Destiny was better, but the Oppo was pretty darn close. Considering it cost 1/10th as much that says alot. I have tried other $200 cdp's before that were nowhere near to the quality of the Oppo.
> 
> I do like listening to cd's so my hunt will continue. I think I have it narrowed down to a Meridian g06 or an Ayre cx7e. Both are a little above my initial budget, but it won't be the first time I've exceeded my a/v budget, and probably not the last. I can stay on budget if I buy thru Audiogon.
> 
> I think I'll google the Roskan now. Thanks
> 
> Tom



Also try the Naim CD5x


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Well I guess I will try this again.


In doing previous software upgrades I used a USB to serial adapter is there any reason to believe that this will not work with v1.31?


----------



## SRT-10 Viper

Will the D2 play via HDMI the new codec's assuming the BD player decodes them?


----------



## EL

if the player decodes it, it's plain old PCM for the D2

the D2 does not care if it was Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD MA or anything else before.


so yes, that way the D2 will "play new codec's" but the D2 cannot support more than 6 ch PCM via HDMI, you will only have 5.1, no 7.1 (limitation of the main DSP used, motorola/freescale)


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13396853
> 
> 
> C'mon doc don't leave us hanging, what are the 6 subs you have?



You really don't want to know










But the 6 LFE channels are powered by 18,000 watts of audio.


The Combined frequency response covers 1Hz to 100Hz


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13397788
> 
> 
> Well I guess I will try this again.
> 
> 
> In doing previous software upgrades I used a USB to serial adapter is there any reason to believe that this will not work with v1.31?



Hi,

There should be no reason it won't work. Anthem has stated that the USB to serial is an option if a direct serial port is NA.

I will say personally though, I had dreadful luck with adaptors, even had an instance where I turned my D2 into a lifeless brick that had to be sent back to the factory.

I elected after that to buy a used laptop ($400) with a serial port and have been issue free on all updates and ARC as well ever since.

/\\/\\


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13398139
> 
> 
> You really don't want to know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the 6 LFE channels are powered by 18,000 watts of audio.
> 
> 
> The Combined frequency response covers 1Hz to 100Hz



Hey Doc!

You don't say where you live but did you cause the Eastern Seaboard blackout a few years ago???


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13398983
> 
> 
> Hey Doc!
> 
> You don't say where you live but did you cause the Eastern Seaboard blackout a few years ago???



No Blackout here - I have a dedicated 200 AMP

Circuit just for the theater and another 200 AMP

circuit for the house.


I Live in NH.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13397788
> 
> 
> Well I guess I will try this again.
> 
> 
> In doing previous software upgrades I used a USB to serial adapter is there any reason to believe that this will not work with v1.31?



No - not sure why you would be more concerned with 1.31 than other firmware upgrades.


----------



## BruiserG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13397788
> 
> 
> Well I guess I will try this again.
> 
> 
> In doing previous software upgrades I used a USB to serial adapter is there any reason to believe that this will not work with v1.31?



Since I never heard anything back either, I assumed it was just me having the problem and therefore something on my end. So even though it had worked fine with updates previously I exchanged the cheaper usb / serial adapter I got at best buy with a nicer one I found at Fry's. The new one worked like a charm. Performed the 1.31 procedure this weekend and all is well so far. Everything is working fine and I even noticed an improvement in overall clarity that I was not expecting. I'm not sure what in the firmware would have affect that. Or maybe I'm just hearing things...


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/13394445
> 
> 
> I can't upgrade to 1.31 firmware.
> 
> My D2 has 1.11 official firmware. When i try to upgrade (with serial port, not usb-serial) this is the message:
> 
> "Eeprom programming failed"
> 
> I don't have any problem with 1.11 installer.
> 
> 
> Maybe... i have to upgrade to a prior version... and then to 1.31?
> 
> 
> P.S.: sorry for my poor english.. i'm learning your language.. but only one hour every week...



There have been times when I have gotten different fail messages during an upgrade. The answer was to keep trying the install until it did not fail (for the 1.29x versions, I may have had to try 10 or more times before I got a good flash). So if you keep trying, you may get a good flash at some point.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13397788
> 
> 
> Well I guess I will try this again.
> 
> 
> In doing previous software upgrades I used a USB to serial adapter is there any reason to believe that this will not work with v1.31?



We haven't received any reports that raise an alert on this. We HAVE received one report that a user with a real serial port that has worked for previous updates has not been able to get V1.31 to install. No idea why at this point.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EL* /forum/post/13398052
> 
> 
> if the player decodes it, it's plain old PCM for the D2
> 
> the D2 does not care if it was Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD MA or anything else before.
> 
> 
> so yes, that way the D2 will "play new codec's" but the D2 cannot support more than 6 ch PCM via HDMI, you will only have 5.1, no 7.1 (limitation of the main DSP used, motorola/freescale)



A clarification on that: The D2 is indeed limited to 5.1 channel INPUT, but it can raise that to 7.1 channel OUTPUT using, for example Dolby PLIIx -- and this is true even if the input is high bandwidth multi-channel PCM as from a decoding Blu-Ray player.


Poster FILMMIXER, who is in the business of making audio tracks for movies, reports that this works very well indeed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I got a confirmation this morning from my Anthem dealer that my ARC order has been placed and is in process at Anthem. The $399 pricing is also confirmed.

--Bob


----------



## cobracalde

ASW, yesterday i tried many.. many times.... and.. no luck..


Only two times i saw the progress bar starting to move.. but at the end.. "Eprom programming failed"


----------



## netroamer

A few days ago I began watching a SD-DVD (480i) and noticed, during the title sequence, that the image was shifting up and down a few lines. I checked the video status and saw the "Film Mode" was changing from on to off. I then changed the "Film Mode" setting to off and the problem stopped, but I knew that this was not right as no 3:2 pull-down would occur so I switched the DVD output to 1080p and the problem went away. Since then, I was watching an episode of Lost, from my Tivo 3, at 1080i, and noticed the same anomaly. Again the status page showed the "Film Mode" changing from on to off. I assume that the shift in "Film Mode" means something. Anyone else noticed the same issue?


John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13399549
> 
> 
> I got a confirmation this morning from my Anthem dealer that my ARC order has been placed and is in process at Anthem. The $399 pricing is also confirmed.
> 
> --Bob



I think you got a STEAL at that price.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/13399553
> 
> 
> ASW, yesterday i tried many.. many times.... and.. no luck..
> 
> 
> Only two times i saw the progress bar starting to move.. but at the end.. "Eprom programming failed"



With all of us doing the upgrade with no problems, your issue solution may be more simple then complex. This is pretty basic, but....


Have you made sure your serial connectors are tight?


Have you changed out the serial cable?


Have your checked the baud speed?


Have you removed all the HDMI inputs?


Have you tried shutting down any virus software?


Just trying to help.


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13399821
> 
> 
> Just trying to help.



Thanks..










It's a very strange problem..


I can't upgrade to 1.31, but it's ok if i try to install 1.11 official release (with same PC, serial port, baud, flow control, serial cable..etc..)


Did you upgrade from 1.11 to 1.31 (directly)?


----------



## netroamer

No, I went from 1.11 to 1.21b to 1.29k ( a few times) to 1.31.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/13399901
> 
> 
> Thanks..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a very strange problem..



Has Nick responded to your e-mail?


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13399593
> 
> 
> I think you got a STEAL at that price.



I think that's the MSRP, right?

That's what I paid anyway.


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13399970
> 
> 
> Has Nick responded to your e-mail?



Nick has responded with a question about the type of connection between D2 and PC (serial port or USB-serial). I have answered few minutes ago..


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13400003
> 
> 
> I think that's the MSRP, right?
> 
> That's what I paid anyway.



I have heard MSRP numbers higher than that!


I think dealers can charge whatever they think

they can get away with.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13400003
> 
> 
> I think that's the MSRP, right?
> 
> That's what I paid anyway.



That is the MSRP. I cannot see any reason why anyone would have to pay more unless shipping is involved or something.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/13400027
> 
> 
> Nick has responded with a question about the type of connection between D2 and PC (serial port or USB-serial). I have answered few minutes ago..



Just a helpful suggestion. If you didn't include the type of connection in your initial eMail then I think in future communications you should really give every detail of the environment / system, etc when eMailing them (Maybe you did and they missed it).


This will for sure speed things up. I have found Nick to be amazing at turning around inquiries, but even for him there is some time involved. With a zillion of us all ordering ARC-1's in a tight time period anything we can do to help him along will just help us.


As for the Adapter itself in my searches on the net lately I have come across a dizzying number of them. Some only work with Vista (or other) with driver/software updates. Didn't even know they could have those hahaa do be sure there are no compatibility issues and check to see if there is any updated drivers for the adapter. Even a windows patch could potentially mean the driver needed to be updated unfortunately. You just never can tell for sure.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. Can folks list the Make Model of some USB / Serial adapters that have worked for them? I will need to be picking one up today.


PPS. Was the saving and reposting of the User custom settings pretty much the best test to see if your adapter will work or is there a better way? I realize there may not be any perfect test other than just doing it, but I would like to take the time and do as much due diligence as I can before any risk of wonking my D2.


----------



## BruiserG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13400537
> 
> 
> Just a helpful suggestion. If you didn't include the type of connection in your initial eMail then I think in future communications you should really give every detail of the environment / system, etc when eMailing them (Maybe you did and they missed it).
> 
> 
> This will for sure speed things up. I have found Nick to be amazing at turning around inquiries, but even for him there is some time involved. With a zillion of us all ordering ARC-1's in a tight time period anything we can do to help him along will just help us.
> 
> 
> As for the Adapter itself in my searches on the net lately I have come across a dizzying number of them. Some only work with Vista (or other) with driver/software updates. Didn't even know they could have those hahaa do be sure there are no compatibility issues and check to see if there is any updated drivers for the adapter. Even a windows patch could potentially mean the driver needed to be updated unfortunately. You just never can tell for sure.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> PS. Can folks list the Make Model of some USB / Serial adapters that have worked for them? I will need to be picking one up today.
> 
> 
> PPS. Was the saving and reposting of the User custom settings pretty much the best test to see if your adapter will work or is there a better way? I realize there may not be any perfect test other than just doing it, but I would like to take the time and do as much due diligence as I can before any risk of wonking my D2.



The one I picked up this weekend is the KEYSPAN USA19HS. It retails for about $40, but I've seen it cheaper online. As I said in a previous post, there are some issues that the newer firmware loader programs have with some adapters that the older programs did not. I would not suggest using the save / load settings program as a test for an adapter, as my old adapter worked fine with that, as well as with the 1.21b loader. For me, the best test was to start to load 1.31 and see if my computer could find my D2. This is where my problems were. You can always hit "abort" if you're not quite ready to go through with the install. Hope that helps.


----------



## BruiserG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BruiserG* /forum/post/13400737
> 
> 
> The one I picked up this weekend is the KEYSPAN USA19HS. It retails for about $40, but I've seen it cheaper online. As I said in a previous post, there are some issues that the newer firmware loader programs have with some adapters that the older programs did not. I would not suggest using the save / load settings program as a test for an adapter, as my old adapter worked fine with that, as well as with the 1.21b loader. For me, the best test was to start to load 1.31 and see if my computer could find my D2. This is where my problems were. You can always hit "abort" if you're not quite ready to go through with the install. Hope that helps.



Here's the link: http://www.keyspan.com/products/usa19hs/


----------



## bool

I am also using the keyspan adapter as mentioned above w/Vista and have upgraded my AVM50 w/no problems.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13398139
> 
> 
> You really don't want to know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the 6 LFE channels are powered by 18,000 watts of audio.
> 
> 
> The Combined frequency response covers 1Hz to 100Hz



Au contraire doc, now I REALLY want to know!










1hz eh? Thigpen rotary?


I saw your nice pics of your ht before but didn't notice the subs, must be hidden in there somewhere.


My puny 10000watts of Fathom goodness are almost ready for placement and ARC optimization. Can't wait, been living through construction for 4 months now.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13402857
> 
> 
> Au contraire doc, now I REALLY want to know!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1hz eh? Thigpen rotary?
> 
> 
> I saw your nice pics of your ht before but didn't notice the subs, must be hidden in there somewhere.
> 
> 
> .



The subs which could be seen - but not in the

pictures are under the two coffee tables.


The other 6 subs can't be seen.


Since below 16 Hz Humans can't HEAR but they can feel.


Therefore they are 4 of them inside the seats


And then 2 under the floor that moves the floor

of the theater UP and DOWN










Even though if you add up all my numbers you get

to 8 subs - versus the 6 I talk about that is because

the 8 subs are broken down into 6 channels for

distribution.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

2 of them are actually "ejector seats"...


----------



## Jim E.

For your edification, here's the ARC-1 operating guide.










Jim

 

ARC-1 Operating Guide.pdf 202.87890625k . file


----------



## Kensmith48

Is it possible to do CMS with the D2. I've read that the JVC RS2 projector needs color mngt. and was wondering if the D2 could help.


----------



## Ian_Currie

For what it's worth, I don't think the RS2 needs much help color wise. Compared to my RS1, it's miles better. I have a pro calibrated 3 chip dlp and I can't see any big dif between the colors.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/13405050
> 
> 
> For what it's worth, I don't think the RS2 needs much help color wise. Compared to my RS1, it's miles better. I have a pro calibrated 3 chip dlp and I can't see any big dif between the colors.



That's interesting Ian. I thought people were saying that the colors on the RS2 were worse than the RS1 because they are even more saturated?


----------



## jclem

Just for the record, I was able to upgrade my AVM 50 from 1.20 to 1.31 successfully. I have a laptop without a serial port and no usb adaptor, so I had to disconnect everything from the Anthem and bring it upstairs to my PC. At least it worked after all that.

Among other things, one 'repair' that the 1.31 SW seems to have made is taking care of an HDMI handshake issue that I was having between my AVM50 and TIVO. (Yes, I am knocking on wood.)

Hurray for the Techs at Anthem!! It's like the difference between a Home Depot and a REAL lumber yard---good customer service is worth it's weight in gold.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/13404967
> 
> 
> Is it possible to do CMS with the D2. I've read that the JVC RS2 projector needs color mngt. and was wondering if the D2 could help.



The D2 and AVM-50 can have custom Gamma curves loaded into them using the Live Video Settings Editor on a Windows PC. Once loaded, they become available as a Gamma correction setting. In addition to a single gray-scale Gamma curve, separate curves for R, G, and B are supported.


This can be used to do some degree of color correction for displays that need it, but it is by no means straightforward nor, even when done right, as good as making the corrections in the display itself if possible.


ETA: Let me add that this is not a limitation unique to the D2. The HDMI cable carries an 8 bit value for each of R, G, and B for each pixel. That's just 256 steps for each of them. If you change the linearity of the signal you are sending to the display -- in an effort to correct for processing mistakes in the display -- then you must lose some of those steps (either by skipping them or compressing them somewhere along the scale from dark to light). There is no other way to get the data over into the display. Thus it is a band-aid solution. It is much MUCH better to get a display that does its job correctly or which can be adjusted internally to do its job correctly. Feeding data to the display which has been distorted to counter a mistake in the display causes loss of information.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Has anybody ALREADY USING ARC done the upgrade from V1.30 or V1.30a to V1.31 in the Anthem and the corresponding software on the Windows PC?


I've had a report that there may be a problem preserving the ARC's licensing (which is tied to the Anthem's serial number) during this upgrade. I suspect this will turn out to be a simple mistake in how this latest upgrade was done, but I'd like to confirm that at least SOMEBODY here has done that upgrade and their ARC Windows software and the loading of results to the Anthem is still working correctly.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13402928
> 
> 
> The subs which could be seen - but not in the
> 
> pictures are under the two coffee tables.
> 
> 
> The other 6 subs can't be seen.
> 
> 
> Since below 16 Hz Humans can't HEAR but they can feel.
> 
> 
> Therefore they are 4 of them inside the seats
> 
> 
> And then 2 under the floor that moves the floor
> 
> of the theater UP and DOWN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though if you add up all my numbers you get
> 
> to 8 subs - versus the 6 I talk about that is because
> 
> the 8 subs are broken down into 6 channels for
> 
> distribution.



Cooool. I didn't realize the buttshakers need/take so much power! So Bob wasn't kidding about your ht being a lowrider with the bouncing up and down action.


----------



## Milt99

Question time:

Do I need to contact Anthem to get the userid and password to the tech site for the 1.31 firmware or is that information provided with the ARC package. _Doh, just read the manual hopefully they are shipping the latest version._


Also does the tech site have more than one version of software posted?

I'd like to have a copy of my current firmware(1.20) on-hand in case there are problems and I need to reload it.

Thanks.


----------



## art4mad

I'm getting my D2 installed on Wednesday, replacing a Sunfire Theater Grand IV and separate DVDO VP-50. I considered canceling my order for the D2 after reading that it cannot accept more than 5.1 channels of input. That means the films that are just starting to appear in HD with 6.1 and 7.1 channels of discrete sound via either uncompressed PCM or player decoded DTS-HD/True HD will get downmixed to 5.1, then matrixed to a pseudo 7.1 via the D2's surround flavors. I was shocked by that. Why wouldn't a 7.1 output pre/pro have the ability to input 7.1 channels?? Especially for over 7k, Anthem needs an upgrade to HDMI 1.3. I don't care if they ever internally decode the HD formats from bitstream... the players can do that... but more and more movies are going to be coming out in 7.1 sound over the next year and beyond. Did I just pay $7k for an already obsolete pre/pro???


Somebody give me some love for the D2. What about the video performance? Will it stack up well in comparison to the DVDO? Can the D2 be upgraded hardware-wise to eventually accept the full 7.1 inputs? How well does the 7.1 to 5.1 to not quite the same 7.1 really compare to full 7.1? Am I going to be happy with this unit?


----------



## RROSEN

Thanks for the info on the Keyspan.


Turns out there is a vendor within slapshot distance of my ARC-1 dealer so its all good.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN

I can't answer your video questions specific to the DVDO50 other than to say I remember posts with favorable comparisons a ways back... maybe way back so don't quote me.


As far as the audio goes, as it has been mentioned here many times, there is an AVS member called Filmmixer who is a professional movie sound mixer and he basically says its pretty darn close.


To the point where he has a hard time telling them apart.


I sure love mine so there is hope










Cheers,


Richard


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13405549
> 
> 
> Also does the tech site have more than one version of software posted?



No. only the last one.


I'm interested as well in old firmware version...


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13405315
> 
> 
> Has anybody ALREADY USING ARC done the upgrade from V1.30 or V1.30a to V1.31 in the Anthem and the corresponding software on the Windows PC?
> 
> 
> I've had a report that there may be a problem preserving the ARC's licensing (which is tied to the Anthem's serial number) during this upgrade. I suspect this will turn out to be a simple mistake in how this latest upgrade was done, but I'd like to confirm that at least SOMEBODY here has done that upgrade and their ARC Windows software and the loading of results to the Anthem is still working correctly.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I did. I had no issues preserving the ARC's licensing after undertaking all three upgrades. As I recall, however, Nick gave us specific instructions to manually remove the ARC.exe from 1.30 to 1.30a before upgrading. 1.31 does replaces it automatically. So, I suspect that the user you are referring to failed to abide by the upgrade instructions.


Also, I was specifically warned by email instructions that if I had to re-enter the D2 serial number or the microphone number that I had better enter it correctly on the first attempt or my D2 would have to go back to the factory for reprogramming. So, everybody had better be very careful when the ARC packages do start shipping.


By the way, so far I am extremely satisfied with my new ARC setup. It has modified the audio responses by overcoming a side half wall and a rear skylight carve out in my loft room. I am still experimenting with some of the settings manually to compare to the automatic ones and fine tune/redial everything in.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13405473
> 
> 
> Cooool. I didn't realize the buttshakers need/take so much power! So Bob wasn't kidding about your ht being a lowrider with the bouncing up and down action.



It takes a lot or POWER to move 2x12 Flooring










And with the SIZE OF MY BUTT - moving the seats also

takes a lot of power


----------



## EL




> Quote:
> Why wouldn't a 7.1 output pre/pro have the ability to input 7.1 channels?? Especially for over 7k, Anthem needs an upgrade to HDMI 1.3



it's because of the pair of DSP used, from Nick:


> Quote:
> Motorola 56367 wasn't designed for more than 6 input channels (DTS-ES hid the back channel in the surrounds). I'm actually not that worried right now because past attempts at >5.1, including those using matrixing, didn't get too far. There will always be something to showcase new introductions but for studios to continue producing EX/ES/7.1 etc, cinema owners have to be convinced that more tickets will be sold if they add more channels, and for the home market, only about 30% of homes have the space.



I do love my D2, but I would be hesitant to buy one right now as it does not do the new codecs (no big deal when one can do PCM over HDMI) and it can't get the max 7.1 channels.


Filmmaker might be right for most actual 7.1 tracks but when I test different ways of getting the 7.1 from 5.1, I get different results (I prefer prologicIIx overall) so this has me questioning the "hard time telling them apart"


Like I said I love my D2 and the ARC-1 will be mine but that "limitation" is bugging me as it seems 7.1 will be part of more BR releases.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13399065
> 
> 
> No Blackout here - I have a dedicated 200 AMP
> 
> Circuit just for the theater and another 200 AMP
> 
> circuit for the house.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13398970
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> There should be no reason it won't work. Anthem has stated that the USB to serial is an option if a direct serial port is NA.
> 
> I will say personally though, I had dreadful luck with adaptors, even had an instance where I turned my D2 into a lifeless brick that had to be sent back to the factory.
> 
> I elected after that to buy a used laptop ($400) with a serial port and have been issue free on all updates and ARC as well ever since.
> 
> /\\/\\



The Keyspan has worked just fine for me. The IOgear communicates as well, though I haven't tried firmware updates with it.


Personally, I just went out and bought a PC Card Serial adapter for my laptop. Seems much more reliable with a variety of audio gear. Somewhat more expensive than a USB-Serial adapter, but so much more reliable and a lot cheaper than the brick scenario.


----------



## cobracalde

Has someone updated an old D2 (greenish video board) to 1.31 firmware (from 1.11)?


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13405315
> 
> 
> Has anybody ALREADY USING ARC done the upgrade from V1.30 or V1.30a to V1.31 in the Anthem and the corresponding software on the Windows PC?
> 
> 
> I've had a report that there may be a problem preserving the ARC's licensing (which is tied to the Anthem's serial number) during this upgrade. I suspect this will turn out to be a simple mistake in how this latest upgrade was done, but I'd like to confirm that at least SOMEBODY here has done that upgrade and their ARC Windows software and the loading of results to the Anthem is still working correctly.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Yes some people are having a licensing issue when upgrading to 1.31. In my case from 1.29k.


I spoke with Nick and they are feverishly working out the solution.



Jim


----------



## izzihd

Thanks for the manual Jim. Really disapointing considering the manual for the d1/d2. No info at all on what the system does or how it works. I expect this level of "trust us" from a receiver manufacturer, but not Anthem.


Anyone have any more detail about what ARC really does?


----------



## Jim E.

Quote:

Originally Posted by *izzihd* 
Thanks for the manual Jim. Really disapointing considering the manual for the d1/d2. No info at all on what the system does or how it works. I expect this level of "trust us" from a receiver manufacturer, but not Anthem.


Anyone have any more detail about what ARC really does?
Here's some more info...


Jim

 

D2_ARC_PDS.pdf 186.5185546875k . file


----------



## izzihd

Way better - thanks Jim!


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/13406863
> 
> 
> Has someone updated an old D2 (greenish video board) to 1.31 firmware (from 1.11)?



I just upgraded a D1 (upgraded to D2) with I believe a green board last night (but from 1.2x). No troubles at all, but I used a real PC with a real serial port (rather than a laptop or USB serial).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/13408586
> 
> 
> I just upgraded a D1 (upgraded to D2) with I believe a green board last night (but from 1.2x). No troubles at all, but I used a real PC with a real serial port (rather than a laptop or USB serial).



Joe, I think (but I'm not sure) that ALL the D1 units upgraded to D2 had the newer video board installed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13407616
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Yes some people are having a licensing issue when upgrading to 1.31. In my case from 1.29k.
> 
> 
> I spoke with Nick and they are feverishly working out the solution.
> 
> 
> 
> Jim



Interesting. I sure hope they don't have to have these people send units back to the factory.


I wonder what software version will be included in the ARC-1 upgrades shipping out this week?

--Bob


----------



## cobracalde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13408760
> 
> 
> Joe, I think (but I'm not sure) that ALL the D1 units upgraded to D2 had the newer video board installed.



Yes.. I think the same..


I'm waiting an answer from Nick.. but i have some doubts about the compatibility between the new firmware and the olds D2...


----------



## Egan

I hope this isn't a dumb question but I'm confused about Setup Editor and Live Video Settings Editor. Are these apps that need to be downloaded from somewhere? I emailed anthem because I wanted to go from v1.11 to v1.31, and the email response stated to be sure I backed up my video processor settings with Live Video Settings Editor before updating the processor. I don't really know what these are or how to use them.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/13408975
> 
> 
> I hope this isn't a dumb question but I'm confused about Setup Editor and Live Video Settings Editor. Are these apps that need to be downloaded from somewhere? I emailed anthem because I wanted to go from v1.11 to v1.31, and the email response stated to be sure I backed up my video processor settings with Live Video Settings Editor before updating the processor. I don't really know what these are or how to use them.



Both of them are Windows PC applications.


Up to now they've not been shipped with the D2 or AVM-50. You need to download them. Previously Anthem had them in the folder that made up a new firmware install kit on the public download web site (i.e., along with the firmware installer Windows PC application itself). Now you have to call or email Anthem tech support for password access to the tech support download web site. A small amount of confusing documentation also comes as a text file for each of them.


Currently there is not a version of Setup Editor available that is compatible with the V1.3x firmware. Presumably that will change soon. Setup Editor is a tool they use in the factory for saving and restoring the setup stuff for the units. I.e. they can use it to load a common initial setup into each unit before it is shipped. A user can use it to save and restore setups from PC files.


Live Video Settings Editor is a tool that lets you control the Video Source Adjust menu settings from a PC while the Anthem is live (displaying video). It can also be used to save and restore settings. It can also be used to create and install "custom" video output resolution timings or gamma correction curves. Once such a "custom" setting is created and installed in the D2 or AVM-50, it then becomes a choice available from the Anthem Setup menu.


Both applications operate via an RS-232 (serial) cable connection to the back of the D2 or AVM-50.


It is important to use the newest version of each of these to insure compatibility with the Anthem firmware.

--Bob


----------



## art4mad

I have read through almost of of this enormous thread, so please forgive me if I missed this one:


Has anyone successfully done firmware upgrades and run the PC based programs mentioned above via Parallels and/or Boot Camp and a serial port adapter from a Macbook? I have a Macbook Pro with Parallels 2.0 and Win XP Home on it. Am I looking at having to get a dedicated PC laptop to maintain the D2?


WHEW! Page 400!!!


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13408769
> 
> 
> Interesting. I sure hope they don't have to have these people send units back to the factory.
> 
> 
> I wonder what software version will be included in the ARC-1 upgrades shipping out this week?
> 
> --Bob



I will be getting my ARC-1 today or tomorrow according to the dealer. He is calling me back to confirm. His driver is out for pickup, but he could be back today or tomorrow.


I guess depending on when he finishes his pickups he either makes the trek back downtown or waits until the morning... Knowing where he lived would be interesting hahaa (I Kid. no really I wonder)


Once I get it I can give you all the info I can find on what is included. If you have any specific questions just post them and I will do my best.



For the record I will be upgrading from FW V.1.20 and I think I saw in that PDF that what is shipped should have the latest FW version included, but I will confirm.


I also do not have (Edit: Live Video Settings Editor ) or anything else installed anywhere ATM so I will need to run through that in order to do the backups etc in the instruction process so I will be doing pretty much a new install of most of this stuff from a FW version lower than many so it should be a decent test.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/13408865
> 
> 
> Yes.. I think the same..
> 
> 
> I'm waiting an answer from Nick.. but i have some doubts about the compatibility between the new firmware and the olds D2...



1.31 works on my over 1 year old D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13410948
> 
> 
> 1.31 works on my over 1 year old D2.



That's close. Care to be more precise? I believe the key date for D2's is a manufacturing date prior to March 7, 2007.


Don't hold me to that, but that's the date I've got stuck in my mind.

--Bob


----------



## cobracalde

My D2 (230V version) has been bought in may 2006.


----------



## RROSEN

Interesting.


I just spoke with my Dealer and my Arc-1 was not in their order. He spoke with his Anthem Rep who talked to her folks and it could be up to another week before it is ready.


Apparently they are still tweaking it and/or the process of applying the Serial number etc.


What is interesting is that part of the delay is because or due to the fact that mine is the very first after market one they will be shipping out the door... At least according to my dealers Anthem Rep (I feel so special).


I pretty much told him I understood and that if it took 2 weeks to make sure it was "right" then it's well worth it and I just wanted to be kept in the loop on ETA. He will be following up with them on Thursday unless he hears from them earlier.


While I am a little disappointed that it's not ready I am VERY please that Anthem continues to put quality first and is taking every step necessary to ensure these things are ready to go. Good work.


I can just imagine that somewhere in Mississauga my ARC-1 is sitting on Nicks bench undergoing tests and verifications hahaa.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. It could also be simple to get the CD's/Firmware version and/or documentation updated before shipping to match the latest releases. That may make even more sense.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13408760
> 
> 
> Joe, I think (but I'm not sure) that ALL the D1 units upgraded to D2 had the newer video board installed.
> 
> --Bob



Hmm, this is interesting. I had mine upgraded in December (over a year ago, 2006). I have looked at the board and it's not bright red (at least not the red I am used to seeing on circuit boards - like some of the ATI video cards). I could take a picture, but I'm not a paying member (oops - my bad), so I can't post it right? Anyway, for those that have actually looked, is it "red" red, or "kinda" red







. I'm just curious now.


----------



## RROSEN

I think you can post the picture without being a paying member. I think you just need like 5 or 10 posts to post links and pics.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13411381
> 
> 
> That's close. Care to be more precise? I believe the key date for D2's is a manufacturing date prior to March 7, 2007.
> 
> 
> Don't hold me to that, but that's the date I've got stuck in my mind.
> 
> --Bob



My D2 was manufactured before 3/07. I had it in hand at the end of 2/07 and it was in stock at my dealer before then (when it replaced a defective AVM50). Thankfully, 1.31 works fine so far (it is a bit slow to find my video signal, but Nick says "the slowdown is a necessary evil to keep every system on the planet (that we know of) happy").


Do you know if I can determine the manufacture date from my serial number? If so, I can report the exact date later tonight.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/13411863
> 
> 
> Hmm, this is interesting. I had mine upgraded in December (over a year ago, 2006). I have looked at the board and it's not bright red (at least not the red I am used to seeing on circuit boards - like some of the ATI video cards). I could take a picture, but I'm not a paying member (oops - my bad), so I can't post it right? Anyway, for those that have actually looked, is it "red" red, or "kinda" red
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm just curious now.



It's "obviously" red. So, OK you DO have one of the original video boards (me too!).


Well that's good then! So we're starting to get confirmation that V1.31 appears to be properly compatible with older units. Yay!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13412278
> 
> 
> My D2 was manufactured before 3/07. I had it in hand at the end of 2/07 and it was in stock at my dealer before then (when it replaced a defective AVM50). Thankfully, 1.31 works fine so far (it is a bit slow to find my video signal, but Nick says "the slowdown is a necessary evil to keep every system on the planet (that we know of) happy").
> 
> 
> Do you know if I can determine the manufacture date from my serial number? If so, I can report the exact date later tonight.



I don't know how to do it from the serial #, but it is probably on a label on the back of the unit.


Anyway, this is starting to look pretty good!


Yay! I don't really care about startup time so long as it gets it right.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RROSEN,

Well as long as they get your ARC working before they make mine, I'm happy.


Practice makes perfect...

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/13411447
> 
> 
> My D2 (230V version) has been bought in may 2006.



OK, so we've got some older D2 units which are taking the V1.31 install without problem. So your problem is not as "simple" as that, I'm afraid.


Any chance you could try the install using a different computer?

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13412369
> 
> 
> RROSEN,
> 
> Well as long as they get your ARC working before they make mine, I'm happy.
> 
> 
> Practice makes perfect...
> 
> --Bob



Yeah hahaa.


I am not taking any chances *or at least trying to eliminate as many variables or unknown as I can). Even exchanging emails with Nick on any heads up I need to be aware of that may not be obvious.


Sent him the info on my setup, Firmware, planned use of USB->Serial Adapter (Keyspan and IOGear have been most tested and suggested) as well as operating systems etc.


Will keep you posted.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## cobracalde

Yes. Nick told me that v1.31 is compatible with all D2s.


They are trying to reproduce the problem, which appears to be on the Windows side..


I will try using another PC...


----------



## barhoram

I'm using an RTI control system to controll my D2 via the RS-232 port in the back. It's been going fine for a couple years now (D1 upgraded to a D2). Today, the unit seems to have stopped responding to commands over the RS-232 port. I tried just about everythign I could think of...including upgrading the firmware to the lastes 1.31 version. It upgraded fine from the RS-232 port, but after restoring my saved settings, It still doesnt seem to be able to be controlled from the port?? I checked the output of the RTI system with a computer using Hyperterminal, and it's sending out "P1P1" when I try and turn it on...which seems correct. Under Triggers - RS-232, everything is enabled..and I haven't changed the port settings from thier defaults. Is there some simple thing that I could be overlooking?? Is the RS-232 port somethign that might go bad?? However, the firmware upgrade worked...so

it seems to be working at least for that?

Thoughts?


Thanks - Andrew


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/13412695
> 
> 
> I'm using an RTI control system to controll my D2 via the RS-232 port in the back. It's been going fine for a couple years now (D1 upgraded to a D2). Today, the unit seems to have stopped responding to commands over the RS-232 port. I tried just about everythign I could think of...including upgrading the firmware to the lastes 1.31 version. It upgraded fine from the RS-232 port, but after restoring my saved settings, It still doesnt seem to be able to be controlled from the port?? I checked the output of the RTI system with a computer using Hyperterminal, and it's sending out "P1P1" when I try and turn it on...which seems correct. Under Triggers - RS-232, everything is enabled..and I haven't changed the port settings from thier defaults. Is there some simple thing that I could be overlooking?? Is the RS-232 port somethign that might go bad?? However, the firmware upgrade worked...so
> 
> it seems to be working at least for that?
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> Thanks - Andrew



I don't see how the serial control port could be broken if things like the installer and Live Video Settings Editor are working. They use the same sort of control structure over RS-232. In particular the installer uses the commands to turn the Anthem on and off.


Check what Live Video Settings Editor is sending and compare to your control system.


It is probably something simple like a baud rate or flow control mismatch.


Or perhaps your control system is expecting status info echoed back and you have turned that off in the Setup / RS-232 menu.

--Bob


----------



## Joe C5

OK -I'm going to try and post a couple of pictures of my video board. If you will notice the board is really brown (in real light it's really really brown, not nearly reddish brown as in the picture). The rest of the boards are green. Also, the first one shows Rev F (who knew I could upload pictures







).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/13413351
> 
> 
> OK -I'm going to try and post a couple of pictures of my video board. If you will notice the board is really brown (in real light it's really really brown, not nearly reddish brown as in the picture). The rest of the boards are green. Also, the first one shows Rev F (who knew I could upload pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).



I would call that the RED board versus the GREEN board.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/13412627
> 
> 
> Yes. Nick told me that v1.31 is compatible with all D2s.
> 
> 
> They are trying to reproduce the problem, which appears to be on the Windows side..
> 
> 
> I will try using another PC...



Good news that all D2s are compatible, as mine is from July 2006 or earlier (don't know when it was actually manufactured).


I know there has been a lot of voodoo around getting a good serial port emulation. My 2002 laptop with a real serial port (!) has worked fine in the past, but it only has USB 1.0 and I'm concerned that will not work with the ARC software.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13413639
> 
> 
> Good news that all D2s are compatible, as mine is from July 2006 or earlier (don't know when it was actually manufactured).
> 
> 
> I know there has been a lot of voodoo around getting a good serial port emulation. My 2002 laptop with a real serial port (!) has worked fine in the past, but it only has USB 1.0 and I'm concerned that will not work with the ARC software.



Does the ARC-1 require USB 2.0? I use an older computer with a serial port for all my firmware updates with great success. But it is not USB 2.0, I hope this won't cause problems as my ARC should arrive by friday.


John


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13413639
> 
> 
> Good news that all D2s are compatible, as mine is from July 2006 or earlier (don't know when it was actually manufactured).
> 
> 
> I know there has been a lot of voodoo around getting a good serial port emulation. My 2002 laptop with a real serial port (!) has worked fine in the past, but it only has USB 1.0 and I'm concerned that will not work with the ARC software.



Does anyone know if USB 1.0 will work with the ARC-1 software? I also have an old laptop with a real serial port, but it only has one USB 1.0 port. I thought that this setup would work well for me, but now I'm not sure.


Buddy


----------



## tngiloy




Bob Pariseau said:


> RROSEN,
> 
> Well as long as they get your ARC working before they make mine, I'm happy.
> 
> 
> Practice makes perfect...
> 
> --Bob[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> I will be more than happy if the ARC I ordered a week ago doesn't come for a month or more and Anthem tech has more times to work out the bugs before I get ready to install it.
> 
> Tom


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13414093
> 
> 
> Does the ARC-1 require USB 2.0? I use an older computer with a serial port for all my firmware updates with great success. But it is not USB 2.0, I hope this won't cause problems as my ARC should arrive by friday.
> 
> 
> John



When I questioned Nick about older laptops with usb 1.0 and limited processor speed and memory, he advised me that this should not be an issue as he was also running a very old laptop since it had a serial connector.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/13412695
> 
> 
> I'm using an RTI control system to controll my D2 via the RS-232 port in the back. It's been going fine for a couple years now (D1 upgraded to a D2). Today, the unit seems to have stopped responding to commands over the RS-232 port. I tried just about everythign I could think of...including upgrading the firmware to the lastes 1.31 version. It upgraded fine from the RS-232 port, but after restoring my saved settings, It still doesnt seem to be able to be controlled from the port?? I checked the output of the RTI system with a computer using Hyperterminal, and it's sending out "P1P1" when I try and turn it on...which seems correct. Under Triggers - RS-232, everything is enabled..and I haven't changed the port settings from thier defaults. Is there some simple thing that I could be overlooking?? Is the RS-232 port somethign that might go bad?? However, the firmware upgrade worked...so
> 
> it seems to be working at least for that?
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> Thanks - Andrew



Did you use the live video settings editor by any chance? I had the same problem with an RTI T4 controlling my D2 via serial port after using Live Video Settings and terminating the program too early. I think the fix involved re-connecting Live video settings and allowing "load" to finish properly.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13412278
> 
> 
> My D2 was manufactured before 3/07. I had it in hand at the end of 2/07 and it was in stock at my dealer before then (when it replaced a defective AVM50). Thankfully, 1.31 works fine so far (it is a bit slow to find my video signal, but Nick says "the slowdown is a necessary evil to keep every system on the planet (that we know of) happy").



1.31 does indeed look like a winner. I too suffered from the no-video-on-startup problem and had mixed results with previous firmwares. So far, I have gotten video on every startup under 1.31.


I don't know my mfg date, but my D2 was purchased in June 2006.


----------



## Kruginator

I have had two "wow" experiences with the D2:


The first was when I put in a power conditioner - colours improved, soundstage expanded yadda yadda yadda


The second was last night with new cables. Originally I used Ultralink HDMIPro and Audioquest HDMI-1. I like to tweak, so I then switched over to Vizionware's Hi-Wirez 1650 Series HDMI Cable.... Wow!


With regards to my Rogers cable signal (via the 8300) the picture became clearer and more 3D-like (both SD and HDTV) and I started hearing lower levels (bass) previously absent.


As for my DVD player (Pioneer DV-46AV, 480i over HDMI in to the D2), the picture also improved showing more detail and precision.


The net effect was as if I had swapped out the front end components. I got a huge kick out of this.


I could not test the Samsung 5000, I finally gave up and should be getting a Denon 3800.


For other tweakers, I hope that you find this post interesting.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/13416082
> 
> 
> I have had two "wow" experiences with the D2:
> 
> 
> The first was when I put in a power conditioner - colours improved, soundstage expanded yadda yadda yadda
> 
> 
> The second was last night with new cables. Originally I used Ultralink HDMIPro and Audioquest HDMI-1. I like to tweak, so I then switched over to Vizionware's Hi-Wirez 1650 Series HDMI Cable.... Wow!
> 
> 
> With regards to my Rogers cable signal (via the 8300) the picture became clearer and more 3D-like (both SD and HDTV) and I started hearing lower levels (bass) previously absent.
> 
> 
> As for my DVD player (Pioneer DV-46AV, 480i over HDMI in to the D2), the picture also improved showing more detail and precision.
> 
> 
> The net effect was as if I had swapped out the front end components. I got a huge kick out of this.
> 
> 
> I could not test the Samsung 5000, I finally gave up and should be getting a Denon 3800.
> 
> 
> For other tweakers, I hope that you find this post interesting.



Thanks very much for sharing your experiences. I had similar "wow" moments going from Monster, Monoprice, Bluejeans to AudioQuest HDMI-1. Using a PS3 to a D2, I noticed sharper menu text, better colors and smoother video with HDMI-1 compared to the other cables. So I'm happy to know an even better cable exists.


Also, good info about the power conditioner. I had asked about this previsouly in the forum, but I don't think anyone had a before and after experience with a conditioner.


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13416180
> 
> 
> Thanks very much for sharing your experiences. I had similar "wow" moments going from Monster, Monoprice, Bluejeans to AudioQuest HDMI-1. Using a PS3 to a D2, I noticed sharper menu text, better colors and smoother video with HDMI-1 compared to the other cables. So I'm happy to know an even better cable exists.
> 
> 
> Also, good info about the power conditioner. I had asked about this previsouly in the forum, but I don't think anyone had a before and after experience with a conditioner.



Up until now my favourite HDMI cable was the AudioQuest HDMI-1 for the reasons you gave above. However, I experienced a disproportionate number of HDMI handshake issues with this cable when compared to the Ulralink. It was a case of "when it was working, don't touch it" because the slightest movement resulted in theses handshake issues reappearing and I would have to do a fair amount of fiddling and tweaking before getting the signal back.


----------



## shah993

I was wondering what the trade in value for an older D2 would be.I have one of the first ones made with 1.11 firmware.( upraded to 1.1 so it is that old)Rather than go thru the trials and tribulations I thought I would go that route unless D3 is on the horizon.Or is that idea a dumb one !!!!


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/13416551
> 
> 
> I was wondering what the trade in value for an older D2 would be.I have one of the first ones made with 1.11 firmware.( upraded to 1.1 so it is that old)Rather than go thru the trials and tribulations I thought I would go that route unless D3 is on the horizon.Or is that idea a dumb one !!!!



You want to trade in your old D2 for a new one to avoid having to do a firmware upgrade? That sure seems like an expensive way to get firmware v. 1.31 and an ARC-1 (firmware free - ARC-1 $399 (est)). On Audiogon someone is asking $4,500 for a used D2 - not sure what they will actually get. Even at asking price, you are lookng at a cost of about $2,000, no?


Before looking to trade in your D2, I would ask Nick at Anthem to send you the link to the Beta firmware site, and see if v. 1.31 works for you. Since 1.31 seems pretty solid at this point, you may have missed the "trials and tribulations."


----------



## slots1

I agree. I am still on 1.1 with no problems.

When my ARC comes I will finally upgrade the frimware. Love my D2.... not trading it. Bought because of the upgrades in equipment and firmware.


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13405245
> 
> 
> The D2 and AVM-50 can have custom Gamma curves loaded into them using the Live Video Settings Editor on a Windows PC. Once loaded, they become available as a Gamma correction setting. In addition to a single gray-scale Gamma curve, separate curves for R, G, and B are supported.
> 
> 
> This can be used to do some degree of color correction for displays that need it, but it is by no means straightforward nor, even when done right, as good as making the corrections in the display itself if possible.
> 
> 
> ETA: Let me add that this is not a limitation unique to the D2. The HDMI cable carries an 8 bit value for each of R, G, and B for each pixel. That's just 256 steps for each of them. If you change the linearity of the signal you are sending to the display -- in an effort to correct for processing mistakes in the display -- then you must lose some of those steps (either by skipping them or compressing them somewhere along the scale from dark to light). There is no other way to get the data over into the display. Thus it is a band-aid solution. It is much MUCH better to get a display that does its job correctly or which can be adjusted internally to do its job correctly. Feeding data to the display which has been distorted to counter a mistake in the display causes loss of information.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, via HDMI my D2 feeds a HD-1 (which we know has oversaturated primaries and no internal CMS). If I'm interpreting your post correctly, any gamma correction I set in the D2, either through the output settings in video source adjustment or by loading "custom" gamma curves through Live Video Settings Editor, will lead to a loss of video information to the HD-1? Hence, it's best if I just turn off gamma correction in the D2, forget about fiddling with individual custom curves, and just set the limited internal settings in the HD-1 as best as possible?


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/13416307
> 
> 
> Up until now my favourite HDMI cable was the AudioQuest HDMI-1 for the reasons you gave above. However, I experienced a disproportionate number of HDMI handshake issues with this cable when compared to the Ulralink. It was a case of "when it was working, don't touch it" because the slightest movement resulted in theses handshake issues reappearing and I would have to do a fair amount of fiddling and tweaking before getting the signal back.



My biggest WOW factor was going from expensive Monster and other cables to Monoprice and everything looking and sounding exactly the same except my wallet still had money in it.


In fact I just received some of the newer 1.3b certified HDMI cables from Monoprice this week. It's Digital folks so it's either certified/passed or it doesn't. I guess if your talking analogue there may be something there, but after all I have read I am still doubtful beyond a certain extent.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. Doesn't the Anthem manuals actually recommend NOT using line conditioners? Surge protectors obviously, but conditioners?


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13417885
> 
> 
> My biggest WOW factor was going from expensive Monster and other cables to Monoprice and everything looking and sounding exactly the same except my wallet still had money in it.
> 
> 
> In fact I just received some of the newer 1.3b certified HDMI cables from Monoprice this week. It's Digital folks so it's either certified/passed or it doesn't. I guess if your talking analogue there may be something there, but after all I have read I am still doubtful beyond a certain extent.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> PS. Doesn't the Anthem manuals actually recommend NOT using line conditioners? Surge protectors obviously, but conditioners?



I must say, the debate whether different digital cables make a difference or not is an ongoing and often heated discussion. Alas, we will not find solution at this moment because I respectfully disagree. I get a kick out of trying different things/tweaks. But if you have found cable Nirvana with cheaper solutions, I salute you, good sir!


With regards to Anthem and its advice on conditioners, you are correct. But, as with the cables, I have found something that works for me with the D2. My logic using a conditioner was as follows: if there is an improvement (used loosely to mean whatever you want), what harm is there? I tested 2 passive conditioners and one active conditioner. The active one works best for me. I did learn the hard way though, not to use a conditioner on a P5.


----------



## izzihd

If anybody has heard the ARC in action, your comments on what you heard, and the degree of improvement would be appreciated.


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13417056
> 
> 
> Bob, via HDMI my D2 feeds a HD-1 (which we know has oversaturated primaries and no internal CMS). If I'm interpreting your post correctly, any gamma correction I set in the D2, either through the output settings in video source adjustment or by loading "custom" gamma curves through Live Video Settings Editor, will lead to a loss of video information to the HD-1? Hence, it's best if I just turn off gamma correction in the D2, forget about fiddling with individual custom curves, and just set the limited internal settings in the HD-1 as best as possible?



There's nothing wrong with using Gamma correction in the D2 for its intended purpose. But when you also try to use it for color management, the degree of change you'll need to make in the curves bothers me.


It's a tradeoff. Getting purer colors at the expense of perhaps seeing some more banding in certain scenes.


This will be true with ANY external Color Management System.


Color Management should be done inside the display. But if the display doesn't allow that then you have to use the tools available to you. My point is, using an external device like the D2 to fix this problem in the display will not yield as good results as switching to a display of equal quality that doesn't have this problem -- simply due to the limits of what you can represent in the video stream going into the display.


EXAMPLE: Suppose the display is hot in Red and you can't fix that in the display. So you adjust the D2 to limit the max Red it will send. Well there are just 256 steps of Red it can send so perhaps you reduce it to using just 245 of those (so that the display is not trying to reproduce the hottest steps of Red). OK, now you aren't hot in Red any more but you have just compressed the Red content of your imaging to 245 steps. That means you have discarded some information.


If the problem is not just saturation but also location in the color space of the display's primaries then the D2 doesn't really offer a good fix. I.e. if what the display is representing for pure red should really be shifted a bit further away from blue for example to match the HD color primary standards. To understand this better, consider a ridiculously extreme example where your display is putting up reds as blue (along with putting up blues as blue). There is nothing the D2 can send to the display that can fix that. The display needs to be fixed to display reds as red.


In a more realistic case, what the D2 can do is reduce the blue and green response curves so that red is more prominent. The TV's primary red color is still wrong but the eye sees more red and adjusts.


Just like the D2 can't fix a problem that exists in the MPEG decoder of a DVD player (the part that translates the on-disc data into video), the D2 can't fix a problem inherent to how a display represents the incoming video stream. It can only "cover it up" a bit -- masking the problem at the expense of some loss of information.


The correct solution is to buy a player or a display that doesn't have that problem.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/13418374
> 
> 
> I did learn the hard way though, not to use a conditioner on a P5.



Why? I use a P7 with a conditioner - what should I be worried about?


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/13418374
> 
> 
> I must say, the debate whether different digital cables make a difference or not is an ongoing and often heated discussion. Alas, we will not find solution at this moment because I respectfully disagree. I get a kick out of trying different things/tweaks. But if you have found cable Nirvana with cheaper solutions, I salute you, good sir!
> 
> 
> With regards to Anthem and its advice on conditioners, you are correct. But, as with the cables, I have found something that works for me with the D2. My logic using a conditioner was as follows: if there is an improvement (used loosely to mean whatever you want), what harm is there? I tested 2 passive conditioners and one active conditioner. The active one works best for me. I did learn the hard way though, not to use a conditioner on a P5.



Agreed. No intention here of taking this thread on a huge ugly tangent lol.


As you said, if you can tell a difference then who am I to say you don't hahaa.


It's more of a knee jerk reaction whenever I see a post promoting the higher end cables to post the "other side of the story" as it were so people know that at the very least there is some debate and they need to choose for themselves.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/13418374
> 
> 
> I must say, the debate whether different digital cables make a difference or not is an ongoing and often heated discussion. Alas, we will not find solution at this moment because I respectfully disagree. I get a kick out of trying different things/tweaks. But if you have found cable Nirvana with cheaper solutions, I salute you, good sir!
> 
> 
> With regards to Anthem and its advice on conditioners, you are correct. But, as with the cables, I have found something that works for me with the D2. My logic using a conditioner was as follows: if there is an improvement (used loosely to mean whatever you want), what harm is there? I tested 2 passive conditioners and one active conditioner. The active one works best for me. I did learn the hard way though, not to use a conditioner on a P5.



Just curious - when you introduced a power conditioner and noticed improvements in audio/video, did you just connect the D2 to it or did you also connect your other components to it as well? i.e. could the improvements you noticed come from cleaner power to amp(s) and display?


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13416180
> 
> 
> Thanks very much for sharing your experiences. I had similar "wow" moments going from Monster, Monoprice, Bluejeans to AudioQuest HDMI-1. Using a PS3 to a D2, I noticed sharper menu text, better colors and smoother video with HDMI-1 compared to the other cables. So I'm happy to know an even better cable exists.
> 
> 
> Also, good info about the power conditioner. I had asked about this previsouly in the forum, but I don't think anyone had a before and after experience with a conditioner.



I find it very difficult to believe anyone would notice a difference in picture quality between HDMI cables. If the cable was bad enough, I can believe it might not work at all (too much bandwidth, bit loss, handshake issues), but certainly there wouldn't be any difference in colour / sharpness.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13418840
> 
> 
> Why? I use a P7 with a conditioner - what should I be worried about?



Yeah on the conditioner side, I never really understood why they recommended against it. I figured that they had some level of conditioning or buffering built in so it wasn't needed or something.


I have seen the snazzy BB comparison setups where you see the signal (or electrical voltage) with and without the conditioner turned on and it would seem on the surface that sending a steady consistent voltage couldn't hurt, but since Anthem recommended against it and I was a little dubious in any case, I never seriously considered one.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13419018
> 
> 
> I find it very difficult to believe anyone would notice a difference in picture quality between HDMI cables. If the cable was bad enough, I can believe it might not work at all (too much bandwidth, bit loss, handshake issues), but certainly there wouldn't be any difference in colour / sharpness.



I wish I understood why differerences exist among digital cables - it's all just 1's and 0's, right? It should be all or nothing...


All I know is I do perceive differences in my setup when the only variable is a different HDMI cable. Bluejeans was better than Monster, and AudioQuest was better than Bluejeans...


But as mentioned a couple of posts earlier, it's a widely debated topic. All I can suggest is try such a cable, with a return policy, and see if you notice any differences.


----------



## Jim E.

"New ARC version is online to address 'failed to get version number' error."


Good luck.


Jim


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Jim,

What's the version number for this new software. And is it both a firmware upgrade for the D2 and a new version of the Windows PC software?

--Bob


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13418840
> 
> 
> Why? I use a P7 with a conditioner - what should I be worried about?



The power draw at startup for the P5 is something of the order of 85amps for a brief period, enough to blow my conditioner. I think the power draw was deemed by the conditioner to be equivalent of a lightening strike so one of the circuits blew. Now whether this is the correct analysis of what happened or not, that is what the manufacturer of the conditioner said to me when I sent it in for repair.


I have used Richard Gray and a PS Audio Director on the P5 with no problem. But I found that they negatively impacted the sound. Now I have the P5 plugged in ti the wall socket and I am happy.


----------



## art4mad

I am in process now with the ARC on my brand spankin' new D2. According to my dealer the ARC's are paired specifically with a single D2 and once paired can't be used with another D2. ??? I have yet to confirm that, but that's what he's saying.


I'll post some results after the adjustments are made.


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13418993
> 
> 
> Just curious - when you introduced a power conditioner and noticed improvements in audio/video, did you just connect the D2 to it or did you also connect your other components to it as well? i.e. could the improvements you noticed come from cleaner power to amp(s) and display?



My power conditioner takes the AC current, converts it to DC and then reconstitutes it back to a constant 120v AC. Theoretically (who am I to argue) this gets rid of all the line noise and the constant 120v helps no end. I see Monster power conditioners at Future Shop etc showing 114v/116v etc and I can't but wonder how much better their demo's would look if they had 120v. But I digress....


In answer to your question: I have all my components plugged in to the conditioner, except for the P5. I have played around with all components individually, but found the most significant improvement for me came when all were plugged in to the conditioner at one time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *art4mad* /forum/post/13419995
> 
> 
> I am in process now with the ARC on my brand spankin' new D2. According to my dealer the ARC's are paired specifically with a single D2 and once paired can't be used with another D2. ??? I have yet to confirm that, but that's what he's saying.
> 
> 
> I'll post some results after the adjustments are made.



That's correct. Each purchased ARC is licensed for use with one D2 (or D1). The software enforces this.


Presumably if you had to get a replacement unit, Anthem tech support would have some way to transfer the license.


Dealers who are setting up ARC for multiple customers using one computer have to transfer the licensing files that pair ARC to the D2 over into that computer -- which means a separate ARC purchase for each customer's D2.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/13419975
> 
> 
> The power draw at startup for the P5 is something of the order of 85amps for a brief period, enough to blow my conditioner. I think the power draw was deemed by the conditioner to be equivalent of a lightening strike so one of the circuits blew. Now whether this is the correct analysis of what happened or not, that is what the manufacturer of the conditioner said to me when I sent it in for repair.
> 
> 
> I have used Richard Gray and a PS Audio Director on the P5 with no problem. But I found that they negatively impacted the sound. Now I have the P5 plugged in ti the wall socket and I am happy.



Hmmmm. I have a Panamax 5100-EX and so far have not blown it up. I have serious doubts as to whether it helps, but I would have thought it wouldn't hurt either (and it has pretty blue LEDs). Unfortunately there is just not enough time in the day to pull my system apart and try to do A/B comparisons.


----------



## ASW

I just ordered an ARC-1 from 6th Ave. Electronics in Paramus New Jersey. They are hopeful it will be in in about 1 week.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13419683
> 
> 
> Jim,
> 
> What's the version number for this new software. And is it both a firmware upgrade for the D2 and a new version of the Windows PC software?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


It's still 1.31. The ARC doesn't show a version number that I see but you can see the dates modified when you unzip it as either 3/18 and 3/19.


Jim


----------



## cobracalde

Finally i have sussessful upgraded my d2 to 1.31 firmware!!!










I used another notebook (Dell Inspiron 9400) with a Keyspan USB-serial adapter!


Thanks for all your suggestions!!


----------



## tngiloy

This question is directed to the computer geniuses out there.

In anticipation of installing the software for the Arc-1 I was looking at different options for connecting my notebook to my D2. My notebook has no rs-232 connection. It does have 2 usb's and one type II pc card slot.

I see that there are usb/serial adapters and rs-232 cable cards that both would seem to do basically the same thing in slightly different ways. Is one of these solutions safer or better for accomplishing the task.

Tom


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13422082
> 
> 
> This question is directed to the computer geniuses out there.
> 
> In anticipation of installing the software for the Arc-1 I was looking at different options for connecting my notebook to my D2. My notebook has no rs-232 connection. It does have 2 usb's and one type II pc card slot.
> 
> I see that there are usb/serial adapters and rs-232 cable cards that both would seem to do basically the same thing in slightly different ways. Is one of these solutions safer or better for accomplishing the task.
> 
> Tom



Not a computer genius, but it seems to me the pc card works faster and is less prone to errors that come from the USP to serial conversion. I have used both and am sticking with the PCMCIA serial card. The Keyspan USB converter also works pretty well, though.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13422082
> 
> 
> This question is directed to the computer geniuses out there.
> 
> In anticipation of installing the software for the Arc-1 I was looking at different options for connecting my notebook to my D2. My notebook has no rs-232 connection. It does have 2 usb's and one type II pc card slot.
> 
> I see that there are usb/serial adapters and rs-232 cable cards that both would seem to do basically the same thing in slightly different ways. Is one of these solutions safer or better for accomplishing the task.
> 
> Tom



Nick at Anthem recommended the Keyspan or IOGear USB to Serial adapter and to stay away from the cheaper no name brands which all seemed to have the same crappy (Lets say incompatible) drivers.


I did not ask about PC card Serial adapters, but there was at least one poster a page or three back that mentioned using on successfully. Don't know the make or model or if they would all work or just some or similar effectiveness to USB or not.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13418440
> 
> 
> There's nothing wrong with using Gamma correction in the D2 for its intended purpose.... --Bob



Very well explained, thanks for the reply.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13422663
> 
> 
> Nick at Anthem recommended the Keyspan or IOGear USB to Serial adapter and to stay away from the cheaper no name brands which all seemed to have the same crappy (Lets say incompatible) drivers.
> 
> 
> I did not ask about PC card Serial adapters, but there was at least one poster a page or three back that mentioned using on successfully. Don't know the make or model or if they would all work or just some or similar effectiveness to USB or not.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard




I have been using a SIIG single serial PCMCIA card (Model JJ-PCM012-S2), which I like a great deal (prior to getting the SIIG card, I used a Keyspan USA-19HS USB adapter). The SIIG card is available at Newegg.com and the price is about $20 more than the Keyspan USA-19HS. The SIIG card is MUCH faster than the Keyspan USB adapter and, since is a real serial port, I would think more reliable (I have not had a failed upgrade since I started to use the SIIG card, and had a fair number of fails using the Keyspan adapter).


Regards,

Alan


----------



## tngiloy

Thanks for all the input.

Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/13418374
> 
> 
> I tested 2 passive conditioners and one active conditioner. The active one works best for me. I did learn the hard way though, not to use a conditioner on a P5.




What active conditioner were you trying and what happened when you used a conditioner with the P5 ???


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobracalde* /forum/post/13421718
> 
> 
> Finally i have sussessful upgraded my d2 to 1.31 firmware!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used another notebook (Dell Inspiron 9400) with a Keyspan USB-serial adapter!
> 
> 
> Thanks for all your suggestions!!



Good news!







This suggests that most, if not all, of the folks who have troubles updating firmware may have a software/hardware incompatibility with their PC or USB/serial device - instead of any issues with D2s.


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/13423627
> 
> 
> What active conditioner were you trying and what happened when you used a conditioner with the P5 ???



The Audiophile APS PurePower 1050. When the P5 starts up, it's initial current draw is outside the spec of the 1050 and blew/blows one of the circuits. I then had to send the unit in for repair.


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13424759
> 
> 
> Good news!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This suggests that most, if not all, of the folks who have troubles updating firmware may have a software/hardware incompatibility with their PC or USB/serial device - instead of any issues with D2s.



Chalk up another successful D2 firmware update using the Keyspan adapter. I have an older D2 (shipped with v1.06) and I was able to upgrade to v1.31 via the USA-19HS with no issues. I have had problems in the past with other adapters, my most recent update was to v1.29k via a good old com port on my desktop (moved D2 into the office, rather than vice-versa, less work.) My laptop is a generic (Averatec) running Windows XP Home. Also, I upgraded the Keyspan drivers to the latest version - 3.75s. It is available on the Keyspan web site .


Bart


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13422947
> 
> 
> I have been using a SIIG single serial PCMCIA card (Model JJ-PCM012-S2), which I like a great deal (prior to getting the SIIG card, I used a Keyspan USA-19HS USB adapter). The SIIG card is available at Newegg.com and the price is about $20 more than the Keyspan USA-19HS. The SIIG card is MUCH faster than the Keyspan USB adapter and, since is a real serial port, I would think more reliable (I have not had a failed upgrade since I started to use the SIIG card, and had a fair number of fails using the Keyspan adapter).
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Alan



Ditto on both the SIIG PC card serial adapter working great as well as the Keyspan. My preference, if you don't care about the $20, would be the PC card serial adapter.


Also got mine at Newegg.


----------



## TREVLAN

I am in need of some help please.

I have the Anthem AVM50 with the 1.21 firmware.

MCA5 amp running on Studio 60's for the front CC590 center and ADP590s for the surrounds.

When playing Bluray movies off of a PS3 via HDMI , On some or Most movies I get crackling in the speakers pretty much the same spots, Like Bluray Independance day , almost every darn sceen crackles and on Enchanted Bluray, nothing. I don't recall hearing the crackle on regular dvd's but then again I don't watch many regular DVD's.


I had my system SPL'd I did it myself, so my thing is Did I do this wrong and maybe the levels are to high?


Is it the PS3? Reason why I ask this is, I have a denon3910 on which I play SACD's.

When I use my PS3 to play SACD's like Brothers in arms, it crackles. I pop it in my Denon and nothing it is beautiful.

When I did the levels I used the Anthem test tones only.

So should I redo the levels using something like Avia or swelltones for each player?

What is weird is the PS3 seems to play low at the same level lets say minus10 where the denon playing a SACD or DVD-A i need to lower the volume to around minus 20-25 and it still seems pretty high, but the sound is very clean.


Sorry for the long winded typing, But I need some help as I can't seem to figure this one out. I think it is the PS3 which would suck as it is a pretty darn good reliable Bluray player. In my opinion that is.



trev


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/13425836
> 
> 
> I am in need of some help please.
> 
> I have the Anthem AVM50 with the 1.21 firmware.
> 
> MCA5 amp running on Studio 60's for the front CC590 center and ADP590s for the surrounds.
> 
> When playing Bluray movies off of a PS3 via HDMI , On some or Most movies I get crackling in the speakers pretty much the same spots, Like Bluray Independance day , almost every darn sceen crackles and on Enchanted Bluray, nothing. I don't recall hearing the crackle on regular dvd's but then again I don't watch many regular DVD's.
> 
> 
> I had my system SPL'd I did it myself, so my thing is Did I do this wrong and maybe the levels are to high?
> 
> 
> Is it the PS3? Reason why I ask this is, I have a denon3910 on which I play SACD's.
> 
> When I use my PS3 to play SACD's like Brothers in arms, it crackles. I pop it in my Denon and nothing it is beautiful.
> 
> When I did the levels I used the Anthem test tones only.
> 
> So should I redo the levels using something like Avia or swelltones for each player?
> 
> What is weird is the PS3 seems to play low at the same level lets say minus10 where the denon playing a SACD or DVD-A i need to lower the volume to around minus 20-25 and it still seems pretty high, but the sound is very clean.
> 
> 
> Sorry for the long winded typing, But I need some help as I can't seem to figure this one out. I think it is the PS3 which would suck as it is a pretty darn good reliable Bluray player. In my opinion that is.
> 
> 
> 
> trev




I had the same issues and Anthem has corrected the problem for most of us with it's firmware update 1.29j and later I believe. For some people it was a defective ribbon cable inside the D2 though.


You can try the new firmware and see if that corrects your problem. It did for me. It was audio nirvana finally listening to uncompressed audio without the crackles.


John


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13421212
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> It's still 1.31. The ARC doesn't show a version number that I see but you can see the dates modified when you unzip it as either 3/18 and 3/19.
> 
> 
> Jim



If you open the info box on the ARC software you will see version 1.0.0.1 which seems to have been the only version number so far. It just keeps getting modified. There was another revision yesterday as mentioned previous and it solved some "serial number matching" problems which had gone away but re-surfaced on a version late last week.

This one seems to be very stable and I have no complaints with the result. It appears to me that we are very close to the final version...

/\\/\\


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13425977
> 
> 
> ....It was audio nirvana finally listening to uncompressed audio without the crackles.



Totally agreed, the crackling was driving me nuts in v1.20, but when I upgraded to v1.31 all crackling gone and I swear the soundstage in my system finally opened up to let my Ayre amps breathe


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/13425052
> 
> 
> Ditto on both the SIIG PC card serial adapter working great as well as the Keyspan. My preference, if you don't care about the $20, would be the PC card serial adapter.
> 
> 
> Also got mine at Newegg.



Well unfortunately for me I can't do the PC card adapter since my Dell XPS has some funky MiniExpress PC Card slot lol. Serious WTF is with that hahaa.


For those that haven't seen it imagine looking down at a PC card with the PC connection end to the left and the sticking out part to the right... The upper left corner on the PC connect side is simply not there and no full size (Full rectangle card will fit in the machine). Talk about proprietary. Dell has a PC Express serial card for $170 hahaa NOT. While not proprietary I guess it sure is way out in front of the adoption curve. Never seen one available anywhere except Dell.


All that mini-rant said and done, the Keyspan USA-19HS actually works better for me as I have a Laptop AND a HTPC so I could use it on either.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## TREVLAN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13425977
> 
> 
> I had the same issues and Anthem has corrected the problem for most of us with it's firmware update 1.29j and later I believe. For some people it was a defective ribbon cable inside the D2 though.
> 
> 
> You can try the new firmware and see if that corrects your problem. It did for me. It was audio nirvana finally listening to uncompressed audio without the crackles.
> 
> 
> John



I will try that, but why only from the PS3? The denon3910 has no crackle whats so ever. Thats the only reason why I question it . Why it would need the FW upgrade. I am not trying to say you are wrong or anything of the sort please don't take my post/typing wrong. I'm just asking as again only does it with the PS3. Damn PS3......lol


Oh and does anyone ever get "black lines on start up?" Some times I start up my anthem and on the tv I will get black lines left to right about 1/2 inch think all the way up

-------

-------

-------

something like that except solid but if I shut down the anthem , and fire it back up it works fine. this will happen 1 in 20 start ups. Not a big pain but ust shouldn't happen.


Thanks again for the feed back and help, I love this thread


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/13427534
> 
> 
> I will try that, but why only from the PS3? The denon3910 has no crackle whats so ever. Thats the only reason why I question it . Why it would need the FW upgrade. I am not trying to say you are wrong or anything of the sort please don't take my post/typing wrong. I'm just asking as again only does it with the PS3. Damn PS3......lol
> 
> 
> Oh and does anyone ever get "black lines on start up?" Some times I start up my anthem and on the tv I will get black lines left to right about 1/2 inch think all the way up
> 
> -------
> 
> -------
> 
> -------
> 
> something like that except solid but if I shut down the anthem , and fire it back up it works fine. this will happen 1 in 20 start ups. Not a big pain but ust shouldn't happen.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the feed back and help, I love this thread




I had the same crackling problem and the upgrade to 1.29k (since then to 1.31) corrected the problem. I actually returned a couple of discs before deciding to contact Anthem and was told it was a known issue and the upgrade would correct it. If I understand the issue, it is a timing problem with the incoming data and may not show up using different players.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13426489
> 
> 
> If you open the info box on the ARC software you will see version 1.0.0.1 which seems to have been the only version number so far. It just keeps getting modified. There was another revision yesterday as mentioned previous and it solved some "serial number matching" problems which had gone away but re-surfaced on a version late last week.
> 
> This one seems to be very stable and I have no complaints with the result. It appears to me that we are very close to the final version...
> 
> /\\/\\



Awesome. This should mean that they should be ready to start shipping soon. Would be great to get it today or tomorrow so I have it for the weekend to play with










That said, later and perfect is better then sooner and still being tweaked. I trust Anthem to do what is best for everyone so no worries.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## misterdoggy

Hi Everyone,


I am new here, but not to other forums


I just bought a D2 Anthem and as I live in France, I am having it sent to me from the States (advantageous Euro)


The Dealer suggested that he test the unit before sending. He was not that familiar with Anthem, but had "heard" from other installers that the hdmi can have problems and the unit should be checked before being sent.


As Anthem D2 Owners, do you agree ????


thanks for the Advice

Misterdoggy


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13427947
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> 
> I am new here, but not to other forums
> 
> 
> I just bought a D2 Anthem and as I live in France, I am having it sent to me from the States (advantageous Euro)
> 
> 
> The Dealer suggested that he test the unit before sending. He was not that familiar with Anthem, but had "heard" from other installers that the hdmi can have problems and the unit should be checked before being sent.
> 
> 
> As Anthem D2 Owners, do you agree ????
> 
> 
> thanks for the Advice
> 
> Misterdoggy



Not exactly.




The D2 does have some problems with POORLY IMPLEMENTED HDMI devices. This includes devices that incorrectly implement the spec as well as ones that have bugs in their implementation.


Unfortunately, that includes many devices from some prominent manufacturers.


Anthem puts a lot of time into tracking these incompatibilities and either creating workarounds in updated firmware or pushing the manufacturer to fix their sloppy work.


Right now, HDMI is still a very inconsistent protocol. When it works, it is great. When it doesn't, it can be maddening and very complex (due to addition of HDCP).


There are signs that HDMI implementations are improving, and the industry talks a lot about requiring better compliance to specs someday.


For well-implemented HDMI devices, the D2 seems to work very well.


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13427947
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> 
> I am new here, but not to other forums
> 
> 
> I just bought a D2 Anthem and as I live in France, I am having it sent to me from the States (advantageous Euro)
> 
> 
> The Dealer suggested that he test the unit before sending. He was not that familiar with Anthem, but had "heard" from other installers that the hdmi can have problems and the unit should be checked before being sent.
> 
> 
> As Anthem D2 Owners, do you agree ????
> 
> 
> thanks for the Advice
> 
> Misterdoggy



Monsieur Doggy I can give you my perspective. You have asked a complicated question because different people have different problems specific to their equipment, so I perhaps I will be so bold as to answering your question like this:


1) Anthem has of the best technical support departments in the industry.

2) When problems arise (HDMI related or not), and you contact Anthem, depending on the problem, solutions are found pretty quickly.

3) Anthem updates the D2's firmware regularly in response to 2). Given that your dealer is unfamiliar with the product, he may not have/know how to download the latest software. You need to contact Anthem's technical support in this regard.

4) Unless your dealer is going to "test" your D2 using exactly the same equipment, cables etc as you have in your set up at home, this could be a waste of time.


My conclusion is that your dealer does not really need to test your D2. Having the latest software solves the majority of issues you would come across. But this is your call. You only really need to update to the latest if you experience a problem with the version that was factory installed.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13427947
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> 
> I am new here, but not to other forums
> 
> 
> I just bought a D2 Anthem and as I live in France, I am having it sent to me from the States (advantageous Euro)
> 
> 
> The Dealer suggested that he test the unit before sending. He was not that familiar with Anthem, but had "heard" from other installers that the hdmi can have problems and the unit should be checked before being sent.
> 
> 
> As Anthem D2 Owners, do you agree ????
> 
> 
> thanks for the Advice
> 
> Misterdoggy



Yeah I would go with the send it directly to me in an unopened box brand new option. Sounds like your dealer wants to play around with your D2 more than anything else.


I really don't see anything he could do there that you couldn't do on your own.


A general rule of thumb (FOR ALL HDMI CONNECTION FOR ANY DEVICE) is to be careful to align and insert them carefully. Try to ensure there is no pressure or force from the cable on the connection once it is connected. IE. With those nice think heavy and firm cables (if you have) be careful there isn't a big strain with the cable pulling against a nice straight in connection.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13427478
> 
> 
> Well unfortunately for me I can't do the PC card adapter since my Dell XPS has some funky MiniExpress PC Card slot lol. Serious WTF is with that hahaa.
> 
> 
> For those that haven't seen it imagine looking down at a PC card with the PC connection end to the left and the sticking out part to the right... The upper left corner on the PC connect side is simply not there and no full size (Full rectangle card will fit in the machine). Talk about proprietary. Dell has a PC Express serial card for $170 hahaa NOT. While not proprietary I guess it sure is way out in front of the adoption curve. Never seen one available anywhere except Dell.
> 
> 
> All that mini-rant said and done, the Keyspan USA-19HS actually works better for me as I have a Laptop AND a HTPC so I could use it on either.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Try looking at the SIIG JJ-EC1012-S1 Serial Ports ExpressCard 2 x Serial Port at Newegg and save $100 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16839150012 .


----------



## misterdoggy

Wow


All Great responses and so quick....... this is great


So I think I will go with the general opinion and have it sent to me in an unopened box.


Does anything sound potentially problematic below ??


Video Side:

2 satellites,

SkyTV (english) outputs 1080i/720p (hdmi)

Canal+ (french) outputs 1080i/720p (hdmi)

Sony Blu-Ray BdpS500 1080p (hdmi of course)


Audio Side (no hdmi for sound)

Blu-Ray I was planning to analog pcm 5.1 and digital

Sky and Canal+ have either optical or coax digital


Outputs all balanced no other inputs (have separate preamp for stereo which I will use pass thru mode to front left and right)


thanks for all the support. I look forward to being an active participant


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13428885
> 
> 
> Try looking at the SIIG JJ-EC1012-S1 Serial Ports ExpressCard 2 x Serial Port at Newegg.



Also try this.

http://sewelldirect.com/siig-cyberse...ress-1port.asp 


John


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/13428186
> 
> 
> Monsieur Doggy I can give you my perspective. You have asked a complicated question because different people have different problems specific to their equipment, so I perhaps I will be so bold as to answering your question like this:
> 
> 
> 1) Anthem has of the best technical support departments in the industry.
> 
> 2) When problems arise (HDMI related or not), and you contact Anthem, depending on the problem, solutions are found pretty quickly.
> 
> 3) Anthem updates the D2's firmware regularly in response to 2). Given that your dealer is unfamiliar with the product, he may not have/know how to download the latest software. You need to contact Anthem's technical support in this regard.
> 
> 4) Unless your dealer is going to "test" your D2 using exactly the same equipment, cables etc as you have in your set up at home, this could be a waste of time.
> 
> 
> My conclusion is that your dealer does not really need to test your D2. Having the latest software solves the majority of issues you would come across. But this is your call. You only really need to update to the latest if you experience a problem with the version that was factory installed.



I don't think it's necessarily a bad idea to have the dealer test out the unit first if it's going to be shipped all the way to europe. My first AVM-50 arrived with a hardware defect on HDMI port 1. The symptoms of the failure where that that the source device (at the time, it was a toshiba hd-a1), would report HDCP handshake failures and wouldn't work. The problem did not occur on ports 2,3,4. Anthem replaced the unit for me (had to wait a couple months because it was back-ordered at the time). It wasn't a compatibility problem or anything that could be fixed by new firmware.


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13430027
> 
> 
> I don't think it's necessarily a bad idea to have the dealer test out the unit first if it's going to be shipped all the way to europe. My first AVM-50 arrived with a hardware defect on HDMI port 1. The symptoms of the failure where that that the source device (at the time, it was a toshiba hd-a1), would report HDCP handshake failures and wouldn't work. The problem did not occur on ports 2,3,4. Anthem replaced the unit for me (had to wait a couple months because it was back-ordered at the time). It wasn't a compatibility problem or anything that could be fixed by new firmware.



You had to wait a couple of months for your D2 to be replaced?? Geez, I would have died waiting. I have a Denon 3800 on order which is only getting to Canada at the end of the month (next week) and I am walking around the house like a cat on a hot tin roof!!


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13428172
> 
> 
> Not exactly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The D2 does have some problems with POORLY IMPLEMENTED HDMI devices. This includes devices that incorrectly implement the spec as well as ones that have bugs in their implementation.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, that includes many devices from some prominent manufacturers.
> 
> 
> Anthem puts a lot of time into tracking these incompatibilities and either creating workarounds in updated firmware or pushing the manufacturer to fix their sloppy work.
> 
> 
> Right now, HDMI is still a very inconsistent protocol. When it works, it is great. When it doesn't, it can be maddening and very complex (due to addition of HDCP).
> 
> 
> There are signs that HDMI implementations are improving, and the industry talks a lot about requiring better compliance to specs someday.
> 
> 
> For well-implemented HDMI devices, the D2 seems to work very well.



Well - having had to return an AVM50 last year because it had no HDMI video out at all (and not realizing that until many hours of installation time and days before having a big party at my house, forcing me to have to upgrade to a D2 since my dealer had no more AVM50s in stock), having the dealer test might not be such a bad idea.


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13430027
> 
> 
> I don't think it's necessarily a bad idea to have the dealer test out the unit first if it's going to be shipped all the way to europe. My first AVM-50 arrived with a hardware defect on HDMI port 1. The symptoms of the failure where that that the source device (at the time, it was a toshiba hd-a1), would report HDCP handshake failures and wouldn't work. The problem did not occur on ports 2,3,4. Anthem replaced the unit for me (had to wait a couple months because it was back-ordered at the time). It wasn't a compatibility problem or anything that could be fixed by new firmware.



The guy I'm getting it from is not an Anthem specialist and it will be the first D2 he has ever handled. I'm sure he's capable of testing it, but maybe not and I'm probably as or more capable. Worse case scenario, I''ll have to send it back. Imagine he does something wrong.


Its coming direct from the factory this week, so its the latest version.


----------



## rhrhodes

I guess it's a judgement call, trade-off between having the dealer mess with it, vs. potentially longer wait time if it does need to be shipped back and replaced. All I'm saying is that hardware defects are possible, it sounds like ASW had a similar experience to me with a bad unit. Good luck with whatever you decide and I hope you enjoy your new D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, we just shot through 12,000 posts on this thread.


I hope all you new D2 and AVM-50 owners are carefully reading all 400 pages!


(sheesh!)


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13428885
> 
> 
> Try looking at the SIIG JJ-EC1012-S1 Serial Ports ExpressCard 2 x Serial Port at Newegg and save $100 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16839150012 .



Thanks for the link. I actually probably saw this one when I searched the Newegg site from the previous link provided. I guess part of my issue is that I can't really tell the difference between the older ones and the newer ones based on the name or description and from a pick it looked like it was a regular one since the remote I have that came with my laptop is step shaped with a half width and full width side.


In any case I picked up the Keyspan USA-19HS today since I knew where to get it (close) I know it will work (Nick and you guys) and I can use it with either my laptop or HTPC.


Thanks for all the links and suggestions. Looks like with tomorrows holiday I won't be playing with my ARC-1 this weekend, but I have a good feeling I should see it on their regular Tuesday pickup next week. Fingers closed everything is ready.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. Another thing that concens me about these silly PC ExpressCards is that pretty much every review has a CON stating they wiggle loose easily. Can you imagine it shifts mid update and I brick my D2 #@%#^$%#$ hahaa. Not worth the risk.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13431121
> 
> 
> By the way, we just shot through 12,000 posts on this thread.
> 
> 
> I hope all you new D2 and AVM-50 owners are carefully reading all 400 pages!
> 
> 
> (sheesh!)



And for those of you who see 400 pages, remember you can change the default display to show 60 posts per page by going to your User control panel. Makes it a lot easier to navigate these long threads


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13429072
> 
> 
> Wow
> 
> 
> All Great responses and so quick....... this is great
> 
> 
> So I think I will go with the general opinion and have it sent to me in an unopened box.
> 
> 
> Does anything sound potentially problematic below ??
> 
> 
> Video Side:
> 
> 2 satellites,
> 
> SkyTV (english) outputs 1080i/720p (hdmi)
> 
> Canal+ (french) outputs 1080i/720p (hdmi)
> 
> Sony Blu-Ray BdpS500 1080p (hdmi of course)
> 
> 
> Audio Side (no hdmi for sound)
> 
> Blu-Ray I was planning to analog pcm 5.1 and digital
> 
> Sky and Canal+ have either optical or coax digital
> 
> 
> Outputs all balanced no other inputs (have separate preamp for stereo which I will use pass thru mode to front left and right)
> 
> 
> thanks for all the support. I look forward to being an active participant



Nothing you have mentioned there sounds problematic to me. I have pretty much everything (CABLE, OPPO, HD-A1, PS3) connected via HDMI for audio and video. I also have a mix of Component and Optical/COAX connected for my old SAT PVR as well as doubled up for my Cable box for routing to my Pioneer Wireless headphone console. The PS3, Oppo and HD-A1 I have Optical switched to the Pioneer headphones directly to ensure dd5.1 / DTS 5.1 (the D2 downmixes the HDMI to 2 channel when it passes it out via the COAX which is fine for cable which is mostly 2 channel anyway and the crazy a$$ pioneer even has PLII which works very well.


I also have Sirius Sat radio into 2 channel analogue.


Basically from my experience, the D2's ability to assign pretty much any input to any source makes it pretty much able to handle anything you want to throw at it. About the only limitation you could hit would be if you were somehow unlucky enough to have 4 Optical digital sources and none had the COAX option since the D2 has 3 assignable Optical inputs and like 6 or 8 COAX.


As for the support and quick responses on this thread, this is by far the best, most knowledgeable thread with participants with the greatest mutual respect I have every participated in.


There are folks here who could walk into Anthem and man the Support phones/eMail without missing a beat and the Anthem techs even post here from time to time.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. I would try where possible to just let your source devices output their native resolution and have the D2 do any processing/up scaling. For the PS3 this means 1080p/24 out for most movies and for sure 1080i if that is native for your Sat's to take advantage of the assuredly better deinterlacing of the D2 unless the native resolution IS 720p in which case you are probably better of not having the Sats process it to 1080i then send it to be processed again.


I don't see why you wouldn't just connect the PS3 via HDMI for both audio and video though.


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13433328
> 
> 
> Nothing you have mentioned there sounds problematic to me. I have pretty much everything (CABLE, OPPO, HD-A1, PS3) connected via HDMI for audio and video. I also have a mix of Component and Optical/COAX connected for my old SAT PVR as well as doubled up for my Cable box for routing to my Pioneer Wireless headphone console. The PS3, Oppo and HD-A1 I have Optical switched to the Pioneer headphones directly to ensure dd5.1 / DTS 5.1 (the D2 downmixes the HDMI to 2 channel when it passes it out via the COAX which is fine for cable which is mostly 2 channel anyway and the crazy a$$ pioneer even has PLII which works very well.
> 
> 
> I also have Sirius Sat radio into 2 channel analogue.
> 
> 
> Basically from my experience, the D2's ability to assign pretty much any input to any source makes it pretty much able to handle anything you want to throw at it. About the only limitation you could hit would be if you were somehow unlucky enough to have 4 Optical digital sources and none had the COAX option since the D2 has 3 assignable Optical inputs and like 6 or 8 COAX.
> 
> 
> As for the support and quick responses on this thread, this is by far the best, most knowledgeable thread with participants with the greatest mutual respect I have every participated in.
> 
> 
> There are folks here who could walk into Anthem and man the Support phones/eMail without missing a beat and the Anthem techs even post here from time to time.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> PS. I would try where possible to just let your source devices output their native resolution and have the D2 do any processing/up scaling. For the PS3 this means 1080p/24 out for most movies and for sure 1080i if that is native for your Sat's to take advantage of the assuredly better deinterlacing of the D2 unless the native resolution IS 720p in which case you are probably better of not having the Sats process it to 1080i then send it to be processed again.
> 
> 
> I don't see why you wouldn't just connect the PS3 via HDMI for both audio and video though.



Just 3 inputs


Satellites (2) one has optical and one coax


and bluray which I will use both coax digital and all rca analog's for pcm which in my opinion sounds better that dts or dd which is offered on bluray.


I'm gonna go for it and not have the guy test it. To test it anyhow he would have to set it up and then test ALL of the outputs.


I mean to find a problem he would have to test every input and every output, something that you do at home eventually


----------



## TREVLAN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13427650
> 
> 
> I had the same crackling problem and the upgrade to 1.29k (since then to 1.31) corrected the problem. I actually returned a couple of discs before deciding to contact Anthem and was told it was a known issue and the upgrade would correct it. If I understand the issue, it is a timing problem with the incoming data and may not show up using different players.



Thanks for the info I guess I will give it a try then.


How about this issue? Any ideas.

Oh and does anyone ever get "black lines on start up?" Some times I start up my anthem and on the tv I will get black lines left to right about 1/2 inch think all the way up

-------

-------

-------

something like that except solid but if I shut down the anthem , and fire it back up it works fine. this will happen 1 in 20 start ups. Not a big pain but ust shouldn't happen.


Thanks again for the feed back and help, I love this thread


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13434393
> 
> 
> Just 3 inputs
> 
> 
> Satellites (2) one has optical and one coax
> 
> 
> and bluray which I will use both coax digital and all rca analog's for pcm which in my opinion sounds better that dts or dd which is offered on bluray.
> 
> 
> I'm gonna go for it and not have the guy test it. To test it anyhow he would have to set it up and then test ALL of the outputs.
> 
> 
> I mean to find a problem he would have to test every input and every output, something that you do at home eventually



Well I am not familiar with all the details of your Sony DB player, but does it decode the lossless codecs (other than PCM) and output it via the Analogue? That would be my only question and if it does then it's pretty much a preference thing then as you state.


I can't really tell the difference (Both sounds great) going via HDMI or Analogue to the D2. Maybe once you test them out you won't either as it may be a D2 thing as much as anything else.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/13430369
> 
> 
> You had to wait a couple of months for your D2 to be replaced?? Geez, I would have died waiting. I have a Denon 3800 on order which is only getting to Canada at the end of the month (next week) and I am walking around the house like a cat on a hot tin roof!!



the denon 3800 is only profile 1.1, for over 2k i would wait for the next generation that would support profile 2 i use the 3930ci and ps3, and the ps3 will be upgraded to profile2 by the end of the month ( i hope )


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13437401
> 
> 
> Well I am not familiar with all the details of your Sony DB player, but does it decode the lossless codecs (other than PCM) and output it via the Analogue? That would be my only question and if it does then it's pretty much a preference thing then as you state.
> 
> 
> I can't really tell the difference (Both sounds great) going via HDMI or Analogue to the D2. Maybe once you test them out you won't either as it may be a D2 thing as much as anything else.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Hi Richard,


I am trying to understand about this decoding thing. I have the Sony Blu-Ray BPDS-500 and looking to maybe thinking about the Denon 3800BCDI blu-ray player that is just coming out.


I am currently running the sony both analog rca 5.1 out and digital coax out to my McIntosh MX135 and it works fine.


The Codec lossless thing, I'm not sure what you mean. I thought the choice was simple for outputs, either optical digital, coax digital or 5.1 analog.


After that you have the choice of using HDMI as a audio output, I have top quality digital cables Nordost Silver shadow coax, but having said that I also have quality hdmi Nordost Silver Screen (1.3 compliant), but they don't work with everything all the time

*

Which in your opinion will give me the best audio input. ???*


for Outputs I am using Nordost Balanced XLR Frey cables to the Amps.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13438266
> 
> 
> Hi Richard,
> 
> 
> I am trying to understand about this decoding thing. I have the Sony Blu-Ray BPDS-500 and looking to maybe thinking about the Denon 3800BCDI blu-ray player that is just coming out.
> 
> 
> I am currently running the sony both analog rca 5.1 out and digital coax out to my McIntosh MX135 and it works fine.
> 
> *
> 
> Which in your opinion will give me the best audio input. ???*
> 
> 
> for Outputs I am using Nordost Balanced XLR Frey cables to the Amps.



Don't waste your money on the Denon.


Don't waste your money on Cables.


You only need a HDMI cable from the player to the D2.


End of story.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13434393
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> and bluray which I will use both coax digital and all rca analog's for pcm which in my opinion sounds better that dts or dd which is offered on bluray.
> 
> 
> ...



If you have a blu-ray player you definitely want to use the HDMI connection because I don't think that digitial coax or optical can handle the bandwith for uncompress LPCM audio.

If you use the analog in (which is not bad) the D2 has to re-encode to digital before processing.


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13438356
> 
> 
> Don't waste your money on the Denon.
> 
> 
> Don't waste your money on Cables.
> 
> 
> You only need a HDMI cable from the player to the D2.
> 
> 
> End of story.



I thought the Denon was going to be superior to the sony ?


----------



## RROSEN

I would have danced around it a lot more, but IMHO, the DR is absolutely correct as far as connections and players.


I currently have the PS3 and I am hoping that the ability to decode DTS-MA comes with the 2.0 features hahaa (fingers crossed). I bought the PS3 as opposed to any other for value, capabilities and future proofing. These outweighted the fact that for me it sucks as an integrated part of my system. This should change when the IR2BT unit becomes available. Seemless integration to my Harmony 890 remote for this PS3 thingy hahaa.


Other than that, I plan on buying one of the following stand alone players to replace the PS3 either Q4 or 1st half next year.


Panasonic BD50 will be the first full featured (profile 2.0 and decodes all advanced codecs - lossless) player released any time now for I think $699USD. Price is why I would be waiting on this one till it comes down in Q4.


There is a Full featured Sony coming for around $500 Q3/Q4.


Oppo is apparently making a Blu-Ray player and this is rumored to be ready Q1/2 2009 and is maybe my highest hope. I can live with the integration shortcomings of the PS3 given all its pluses especially if I can get DTS-MA support.


Here is a great thread with a great matrix of all the Blu-Ray sound options, decoding, prices, profiles existing and coming.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t=audio+matrix 


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/13438471
> 
> 
> If you have a blu-ray player you definitely want to use the HDMI connection because I don't think that digitial coax or optical can handle the bandwith for uncompress LPCM audio.
> 
> If you use the analog in (which is not bad) the D2 has to re-encode to digital before processing.



With the Analog in 5.1 into the MX135 I have right now, I think the sound is better than the coax in ??


On BluRay movies you have a choice between DTS DD or PCM (is that Lpcm) but I thought you had to have the analog cables 5.1 coming in to have pcm.


so you are saying you can choose PCM and it will come in over the hdmi cable and that way it does not have to be re-encoded.


I like the hdmi solution for all my cable needs, as I come from a word of optical coax and rca cables.


My 2 Satellites also offer HDMI for outputting sound and video, will that be better as well over HDMI rather than a quality Digital Cable.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13438534
> 
> 
> I thought the Denon was going to be superior to the sony ?



It is for sure superior in price.


But it has to be WORTH the superior price.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13438570
> 
> 
> With the Analog in 5.1 into the MX135 I have right now, I think the sound is better than the coax in ??
> 
> 
> On BluRay movies you have a choice between DTS DD or PCM (is that Lpcm) but I thought you had to have the analog cables 5.1 coming in to have pcm.
> 
> 
> so you are saying you can choose PCM and it will come in over the hdmi cable and that way it does not have to be re-encoded.
> 
> 
> I like the hdmi solution for all my cable needs, as I come from a word of optical coax and rca cables.
> 
> 
> My 2 Satellites also offer HDMI for outputting sound and video, will that be better as well over HDMI rather than a quality Digital Cable.



HDMI will carry every option the others can as far as I know. (for sure it will carry PCM (LPCM) and it will also carry Dolby TrueHD and DTS-MA once machines decode it and pass them as PCM as well). I agree that the analogues would sound better than Coax or optical. I used my analogue 5.1 outs until I got the D2 and its HDMI switching goodness and now its all HDMI whenever there is a choice.


I would think that with stereo or DD5.1 your SAT boxes would sound similar via either HDMI or Optical/Coax. At least I doubt I could tell the difference, but it's a one cable vs many choice.


I haven't done any direct testing. Maybe others have.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13438936
> 
> 
> HDMI will carry every option the others can as far as I know. (for sure it will carry PCM (LPCM) and it will also carry Dolby TrueHD and DTS-MA once machines decode it and pass them as PCM as well). I agree that the analogues would sound better than Coax or optical. I used my analogue 5.1 outs until I got the D2 and its HDMI switching goodness and now its all HDMI whenever there is a choice.
> 
> 
> I would think that with stereo or DD5.1 your SAT boxes would sound similar via either HDMI or Optical/Coax. At least I doubt I could tell the difference, but it's a one cable vs many choice.
> 
> 
> I haven't done any direct testing. Maybe others have.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



I think this is where I am heading


All hdmi


Except for stereo which is a whole other system integrated


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13439552
> 
> 
> I think this is where I am heading
> 
> 
> All hdmi
> 
> 
> Except for stereo which is a whole other system integrated



I think this is a good idea for sources that are multichannel. With HDTV (satellite) however, you might find that HDMI doesn't really help (except for cable clutter).


The ATSC standard is limited to 1080i, and the only mandated codec is Dolby Digital (5.1). I don't know if the HDTV broadcast systems in Europe differ, but many of us are opting to use component for video and coax/optical for audio for HDTV devices ONLY. This reduces HDMI handshaking, and the quality can be virtually identical to an all-HDMI connection.


Of course, with DVD/HD disc sources, with abilitiy to send multichannel uncompressed PCM over HDMI, go for the HDMI - it will be worth it.


----------



## bhrvatin

I am crossposting a question from the Oppo forum to the D2 forum to see if anyone here has heard/seen the issue I am having. In a nutshell, I am not able to get non-5.1 multichannel to my D2 from the Oppo via HDMI. 5.1 SACDs work fine, but 5.0, 4.0, 3.0 etc do not - the Anthem reports that it is a 2.0 stream. Here is a link to the thread on the Oppo forum. Any help is appreciated, thank you my D2 bretheren.


Bart


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/13440112
> 
> 
> I am crossposting a question from the Oppo forum to the D2 forum to see if anyone here has heard/seen the issue I am having. In a nutshell, I am not able to get non-5.1 multichannel to my D2 from the Oppo via HDMI. 5.1 SACDs work fine, but 5.0, 4.0, 3.0 etc do not - the Anthem reports that it is a 2.0 stream. Here is a link to the thread on the Oppo forum. Any help is appreciated, thank you my D2 bretheren.



I was able to prove that the Oppo is in fact recognizing a 5.0 disc properly. I connected the L/R surround channels from the Oppo to my D2 via analog RCA cables. I also turned the HDMI Audio setting in my Oppo to Off and disconnected the HDMI cable from the D2. I changed the D2 to input from HDMI to 5.1 channel analog direct. Sure enough, I got the L/R surround channels to play (I was too lazy to connect the four other channels, but the test still makes sense.)


So it seems that between the Oppo and the D2, something goes wrong in the HDMI communication and the Oppo decides to send stereo 88.2 kHz rather than multichannel. Again, I must make it clear that it only does this for 5.0, 4.0 and 3.0 sources. 5.1 channel works fine.


Surely there is at least one D2 owner out there who connects an Oppo DV-980H to their D2 via HDMI and has 5.0 multichannel SACDs? I have not been able to locate any posts on this topic. Thanks much in advance for any info!


Bart


----------



## Stizzi

I recently sold my Anthem D2. And installed an Onkyo PRSC885 preamp.BIG Mistake I 'am now having continuos handshake issues with HDMI. Well on the up side my new D2 will have ARC.


----------



## Milt99

misterdoggy,

The good Dr. did not explain why he thinks the Denon 3800 is a waste of money. Although I can't speak for him, I'll give you my opinion.

One of the advantages of having the D2 is the built-in video processing.

The Denon 3800 also has built-in video processing.

A significant portion of the cost of the Denon is related to the video processor which is redundant in a system(yours) that already has a VP.

I'm not intimately familiar with the Denon, but I'd be very surprised if the VP in the Denon is as fully implemented, i.e., has as wide a range of options\\features as the VP implementation in the D2.

BTW, Nordost makes fine cables. I wouldn't pay their price but you are getting well-designed and performing cables unlike other brands that are rip-offs pure and simple.

FWIW, I too am waiting for the Panasonic BD50 all because of the ridiculous DTS crap. I wish Dolby would just buy them out and sh!tcan the software in Davey Jones' Locker.

Having 2 sets of codecs has been an unnecessary PITA for years now.

Sometimes competition does not benefit the consumer and this, imo is a prime example.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stizzi* /forum/post/13440685
> 
> 
> I recently sold my Anthem D2. And installed an Onkyo PRSC885 preamp.BIG Mistake I 'am now having continuos handshake issues with HDMI. Well on the up side my new D2 will have ARC.



Stizzi, what were you thinkin'?









Really, I'm curious why you opted for the Onkyo? Built-in decoding & Audyssey maybe?

How does the Onkyo compare audio-wise?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/13440112
> 
> 
> I am crossposting a question from the Oppo forum to the D2 forum to see if anyone here has heard/seen the issue I am having. In a nutshell, I am not able to get non-5.1 multichannel to my D2 from the Oppo via HDMI. 5.1 SACDs work fine, but 5.0, 4.0, 3.0 etc do not - the Anthem reports that it is a 2.0 stream. Here is a link to the thread on the Oppo forum. Any help is appreciated, thank you my D2 bretheren.
> 
> 
> Bart



Make sure the VIDEO output resolution of the Oppo is set to 720p or higher when you are playing SACD or DVD-Audio discs.


Due to the nature of HDMI, the audio signal is embedded inside a fraction of the video signal. And HDMI 480i and 480p don't leave enough room for multi-channel, high bandwidth PCM of the type needed by SACD playback.


I believe for 5.1 the Oppo reduces the bandwidth of each channel to maintain the number of channels if you have set HDMI 480i or 480p output. But for the others, the Oppo may use the alternate (and frankly more common) approach of dropping down to just 2 channels of full bandwidth (which WILL fit in an HDMI 480i or 480p signal).


If that's not it, I don't have an answer for you. Anthem has numerous Oppo units in engineering that they use for testing, so you should probably call Anthem tech support and let them know what you are seeing -- with specifics on the SACD discs you are using for testing. They ought to be able to determine in short order whether it is the Oppo or the Anthem that is causing this reduction in channels.


But again, the first thing that comes to mind is that you need to boost the video output resolution of the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## Stizzi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13441210
> 
> 
> Stizzi, what were you thinkin'?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really, I'm curious why you opted for the Onkyo? Built-in decoding & Audyssey maybe?
> 
> How does the Onkyo compare audio-wise?



Opted for a change since my SIM2 C3X 1080P PJ does video processing. With the Anthem in the chain HD cable picture was noticeable better.Audio wise the Onkyo doesn't hold a candle to the Anthem Audyssey Eq. on or off. Also I have a Theta CB3 in the chain with extreme Dacs to my ears I prefer the Anthem. One of the dumbest decisions I've made.


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13441224
> 
> 
> Make sure the VIDEO output resolution of the Oppo is set to 720p or higher when you are playing SACD or DVD-Audio discs.
> 
> 
> Due to the nature of HDMI, the audio signal is embedded inside a fraction of the video signal. And HDMI 480i and 480p don't leave enough room for multi-channel, high bandwidth PCM of the type needed by SACD playback.
> 
> 
> I believe for 5.1 the Oppo reduces the bandwidth of each channel to maintain the number of channels if you have set HDMI 480i or 480p output. But for the others, the Oppo may use the alternate (and frankly more common) approach of dropping down to just 2 channels of full bandwidth (which WILL fit in an HDMI 480i or 480p signal).
> 
> 
> If that's not it, I don't have an answer for you. Anthem has numerous Oppo units in engineering that they use for testing, so you should probably call Anthem tech support and let them know what you are seeing -- with specifics on the SACD discs you are using for testing. They ought to be able to determine in short order whether it is the Oppo or the Anthem that is causing this reduction in channels.
> 
> 
> But again, the first thing that comes to mind is that you need to boost the video output resolution of the Oppo.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I am in fact running the Oppo @ 1080i. I also tried 720p and 1080p, with the same negative result. I am curious however to see what the output would be at 480i - would the two units sync and just lower the bitrate? One other odd test is that I am going to set the Oppo to DSD over HDMI and see what the result is. This would require HDMI 1.2 - but I am curious to see how the 980H and D2 work that out. I'll try it later; wife and kids are watching "Enchanted" in the theater right now. (I wish they had an appreciation for Deutsche Grammophon like they do Disney.)


Bart


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stizzi* /forum/post/13441320
> 
> 
> Opted for a change since my SIM2 C3X 1080P PJ does video processing. With the Anthem in the chain HD cable picture was noticeable better.Audio wise the Onkyo doesn't hold a candle to the Anthem Audyssey Eq. on or off. Also I have a Theta CB3 in the chain with extreme Dacs to my ears I prefer the Anthem. One of the dumbest decisions I've made.



Hey, don't be too hard on yourself, what you did has logic. It just didn't work out.

Man you got yourself a nice projector and you'll get ARC. I'm jealous.


----------



## B&W700guy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stizzi* /forum/post/13441320
> 
> 
> Opted for a change since my SIM2 C3X 1080P PJ does video processing. With the Anthem in the chain HD cable picture was noticeable better.Audio wise the Onkyo doesn't hold a candle to the Anthem Audyssey Eq. on or off. Also I have a Theta CB3 in the chain with extreme Dacs to my ears I prefer the Anthem. One of the dumbest decisions I've made.



You should have purchased the 9.8. For $500.00 more you could have gone Audyssey Pro. The 805 may have pro, but not sure. I think that would be Apples to Apples comparison.


----------



## yourlilbro

Hey guys! just st up the D2 in theater yesterday. It's accompanied by a Bryston 4BSST and a Sunfire Cinema Grand 5-channel amp. All's well, but I can't seem to be getting 7.1, is it a problem with my Sunfire, or am I doing something wrong? When doing the noise test, my center speaker wasn't working, is there something wrong with the center channel speaker which is causing the anthem to not be able to detect 7.1?


Help guys, Thanks in advance.


Farhan.


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13441181
> 
> 
> misterdoggy,
> 
> The good Dr. did not explain why he thinks the Denon 3800 is a waste of money. Although I can't speak for him, I'll give you my opinion.
> 
> One of the advantages of having the D2 is the built-in video processing.
> 
> The Denon 3800 also has built-in video processing.
> 
> A significant portion of the cost of the Denon is related to the video processor which is redundant in a system(yours) that already has a VP.
> 
> I'm not intimately familiar with the Denon, but I'd be very surprised if the VP in the Denon is as fully implemented, i.e., has as wide a range of options\\features as the VP implementation in the D2.
> 
> BTW, Nordost makes fine cables. I wouldn't pay their price but you are getting well-designed and performing cables unlike other brands that are rip-offs pure and simple.
> 
> FWIW, I too am waiting for the Panasonic BD50 all because of the ridiculous DTS crap. I wish Dolby would just buy them out and sh!tcan the software in Davey Jones' Locker.
> 
> Having 2 sets of codecs has been an unnecessary PITA for years now.
> 
> Sometimes competition does not benefit the consumer and this, imo is a prime example.



The the only difference in quality between the bluray sony bpds500 and the denon 3800 is the VP ?? Nothing Else. I know McIntosh's use Denon insides for their DVD players.


For the CD part I have a Meridian 808i so all I am looking at in a Blu-Ray player is DVD not stereo.


Soon all of the makers of fine stereo equipment will be coming out with blu-ray players then the decision will be whether or not to step up to one of those. I understand the D2 does all the VP so why have a player thats redundant


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13439987
> 
> 
> I think this is a good idea for sources that are multichannel. With HDTV (satellite) however, you might find that HDMI doesn't really help (except for cable clutter).
> 
> 
> The ATSC standard is limited to 1080i, and the only mandated codec is Dolby Digital (5.1). I don't know if the HDTV broadcast systems in Europe differ, but many of us are opting to use component for video and coax/optical for audio for HDTV devices ONLY. This reduces HDMI handshaking, and the quality can be virtually identical to an all-HDMI connection.
> 
> 
> Of course, with DVD/HD disc sources, with abilitiy to send multichannel uncompressed PCM over HDMI, go for the HDMI - it will be worth it.



Right now I am using hdmi from the 2 satellites to a DVDO VP30 ABT102 and its ben working fine for video but the cables HAVE to be lined up and well inserted or it dont work.


So they should work video wise to the D2 as well. I ordered it 3 weeks ago and am still waiting. I ordered it in the US and will use a step down transformer as the European models are astronomically expensive.


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/13441394
> 
> 
> I am curious however to see what the output would be at 480i - would the two units sync and just lower the bitrate? One other odd test is that I am going to set the Oppo to DSD over HDMI and see what the result is. This would require HDMI 1.2 - but I am curious to see how the 980H and D2 work that out.



I am still unable to pass 3.0, 4.0 and 5.0 SACDs to the D2 via HDMI from the Oppo 980H in any configuration. 5.1 and 2.0 work as expected. I am running the v1.31 firmware on the Anthem and the "...-0903" on the Oppo. I'll call Anthem & Oppo tech support on Monday and see what they have to say.


Bart


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13441181
> 
> 
> misterdoggy,
> 
> The good Dr. did not explain why he thinks the Denon 3800 is a waste of money. Although I can't speak for him, I'll give you my opinion.
> 
> One of the advantages of having the D2 is the built-in video processing.
> 
> The Denon 3800 also has built-in video processing.
> 
> A significant portion of the cost of the Denon is related to the video processor which is redundant in a system(yours) that already has a VP.
> 
> I'm not intimately familiar with the Denon, but I'd be very surprised if the VP in the Denon is as fully implemented, i.e., has as wide a range of options\\features as the VP implementation in the D2.
> 
> BTW, Nordost makes fine cables. I wouldn't pay their price but you are getting well-designed and performing cables unlike other brands that are rip-offs pure and simple.
> 
> FWIW, I too am waiting for the Panasonic BD50 all because of the ridiculous DTS crap. I wish Dolby would just buy them out and sh!tcan the software in Davey Jones' Locker.
> 
> Having 2 sets of codecs has been an unnecessary PITA for years now.
> 
> Sometimes competition does not benefit the consumer and this, imo is a prime example.



Good Follow-Up







I'm waiting for the Panasonic BD50 as well.


----------



## Egan

I'm having a problem upgrading to firmware 1.31. I've tried at least 8 times but it always gets stuck on the same step, and get message "Video processor uC FLASH programming failed, error code=0x3066660a". I'm using a PC with serial cable, upgrading from v1.11. I followed the upgrading instructions to the letter. Right now it won't ouput video at all. Any suggestions?


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/13444149
> 
> 
> I'm having a problem upgrading to firmware 1.31. I've tried at least 8 times but it always gets stuck on the same step, and get message "Video processor uC FLASH programming failed, error code=0x3066660a". I'm using a PC with serial cable, upgrading from v1.11. I followed the upgrading instructions to the letter. Right now it won't ouput video at all. Any suggestions?



If you did not physically remove the input/output HDMI cables from the D2, do it and try again.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/13443348
> 
> 
> I am still unable to pass 3.0, 4.0 and 5.0 SACDs to the D2 via HDMI from the Oppo 980H in any configuration. 5.1 and 2.0 work as expected. I am running the v1.31 firmware on the Anthem and the "...-0903" on the Oppo. I'll call Anthem & Oppo tech support on Monday and see what they have to say.
> 
> 
> Bart



Is this limited to SACD only?


Is this limited to the 980 only, or have people noticed it on the 970 as well?


I only have a few discs and they're all 5.1, so I can't verify (plus I have the 970 instead of the 980).


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13443648
> 
> 
> Good Follow-Up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm waiting for the Panasonic BD50 as well.



Thanks. Was I sufficiently cranky?











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13442960
> 
> 
> The the only difference in quality between the bluray sony bpds500 and the denon 3800 is the VP ?? Nothing Else. I know McIntosh's use Denon insides for their DVD players.



I believe the Sony is made by Pioneer to Sony's spec. No, I'm sure there are many differences between the Sony and the Denon. Not knowing exactly what you are looking for in a player would make a difference. If you're looking for more than just BD playback, the Denon may be what you want. I do know there are a couple of issues with the Denon right now. You'll want to check out the 3800 owner's thread for the latest. I guess it all depends on how soon you need to get a new player. Like I said earlier, I'm sitting out for awhile as BD players are still evolving and I'm not needy enough to get a stopgap until they arrive.



> Quote:
> Soon all of the makers of fine stereo equipment will be coming out with blu-ray players then the decision will be whether or not to step up to one of those. I understand the D2 does all the VP so why have a player thats redundant



Exactly. I want to see what Pioneer, Marantz, etal come up with. I don't think I can hold out for the OPPO but that would be my first preference as I'm looking for video playback only.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/13444149
> 
> 
> I'm having a problem upgrading to firmware 1.31. I've tried at least 8 times but it always gets stuck on the same step, and get message "Video processor uC FLASH programming failed, error code=0x3066660a". I'm using a PC with serial cable, upgrading from v1.11. I followed the upgrading instructions to the letter. Right now it won't ouput video at all. Any suggestions?



As NETROAMER suggested, this is usually due to having a powered HDMI connection to the D2 (either source device or display) while attempting to install the firmware.


Many source and display devices leave their HDMI sockets powered even when the device itself appears "OFF".


I suggest you remove wall power from everything except for the D2 and your computer and try again.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/13442358
> 
> 
> Hey guys! just st up the D2 in theater yesterday. It's accompanied by a Bryston 4BSST and a Sunfire Cinema Grand 5-channel amp. All's well, but I can't seem to be getting 7.1, is it a problem with my Sunfire, or am I doing something wrong? When doing the noise test, my center speaker wasn't working, is there something wrong with the center channel speaker which is causing the anthem to not be able to detect 7.1?
> 
> 
> Help guys, Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Farhan.



You can check that your power amp and speakers are working by temporarily moving any working output from the D2 to each input of the power amp in turn so that you know an audio signal is being fed to that channel of the power amp.


The most common reason for not hearing the D2's speaker level test tones from any speaker is that you have mistakenly set the speaker configuration to exclude that speaker in the Setup / Speaker Configuration / Bass Management settings. Note that there is a separate set of settings for the Music Speaker Configuration if you are using that in addition to the normal Cinema Speaker Configuration.


If you determine your power amp and speakers are fine, and you still can't get the D2's speaker level test tones on all your speakers, copy down your Speaker Configuration and Bass Management settings and post them here. Also check the Setup / ADC & Audio Output menu, and make sure it matches the factory defaults shown in the picture in the manual.

--Bob


----------



## Egan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13445581
> 
> 
> As NETROAMER suggested, this is usually due to having a powered HDMI connection to the D2 (either source device or display) while attempting to install the firmware.
> 
> 
> Many source and display devices leave their HDMI sockets powered even when the device itself appears "OFF".
> 
> 
> I suggest you remove wall power from everything except for the D2 and your computer and try again.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, and netroamer. I disconnected all the HDMI inputs, and output, but got the same result. I even tried to reload v1.11 but it won't let me.


----------



## Kensmith48

I recently started having problems with my D2 that I purchased Nov. 07, w/ 1.20v. I thought I'd ask questions here 1st.

1. I have the D2 set to dvd input but while playing a disc I don't get a picture only a blue vertical stripe down the center of the black screen.When I hit other inputs on the D2 1st, ex. cd, aux, etc. then back to dvd input, then I get a picture/image. Blue stripe disappears.

2. I have it set to 16:9 Letterbox (component). I usually get 3"-4" bars at the bottom & top of my Pioneer 710 rptv screen. Now they are about 12" top & bottom. If I go into the #7 screen menu I can change it, but it always starts out with a very narrow picture. Once I get the right size picture I can go to the setup menu and it will change back to the narrow/letterbox again. Then I have to go to the #7 screen and change it by picking any other mode, (Pan. Ana. or letterbox. It will stay with whatever I choose until I power/off and turn back on. Then it will be back to the narrow picture again.

3. I checked the settings on the tv and dvd player and they both look ok. The sound is ok also. I did some changes to the D2's menu's under the #7 but everything has been fine for the last 2-3 weeks. It just recently started acting strange.

4. I have a hdtv tuner connected to input 1 on the set and the dvd is on input 2. While the dvd is playing I can hit input 1 on the set and see a dvd picture. I'm not sure if this is normal either.

Thanks for any help. I'm about ready to pack the D2 up and send it either my dealer or Anthem for repair.


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13444685
> 
> 
> Is this limited to SACD only?
> 
> 
> Is this limited to the 980 only, or have people noticed it on the 970 as well?
> 
> 
> I only have a few discs and they're all 5.1, so I can't verify (plus I have the 970 instead of the 980).



Yes, this only affects SACD. DVD-A is perfect. Stereo SACD and 5.1 SACD are fine too. It is just 3.0, 4.0 and 5.0 SACDs that have the problem. Not all SACDs have a LFE .1 track in the multichannel layer. Most popular music SACDs have 5.1, but 80% of my classical music SACDs are 3.0, 4.0 and 5.0 channel.


I have a 980, so that is all I can comment on. I don't know how this affects the 970.


Bart


----------



## Ian_Currie

I have a question:


I had setup all my inputs to have mode=none when playing 6.0 sources. Today I thought I'd try using some of the modes (PLIIX etc) however, I cannot get my D2 to change modes.


I tried both the remote and the unit, hitting MODE followed by rotating the volume knob. I also tried power the unit on/off. I tried going into SETUP and changing the default mode for the current input. And I tried DD 5.1 versus uncompressed 5.1.


Am I missing something, or is there perhaps something wrong with the latest software - or specifically my machine?


----------



## Milt99

Would anyone be willing to send me the 1.20 firmware? Please?

This is in anticipation of receiving the ARC stuff.

I don't have that version as it was loaded onto my D2 by Anthem.

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/13445770
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, and netroamer. I disconnected all the HDMI inputs, and output, but got the same result. I even tried to reload v1.11 but it won't let me.



Contact Anthem tech support and give them the details. You may need to download from them the special Windows application that resets all of the programmable parts in the D2 back to the state where they can take a new firmware install.


While waiting for that, if possible try doing the V1.31 update using a different Windows PC.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13446260
> 
> 
> Would anyone be willing to send me the 1.20 firmware? Please?
> 
> This is in anticipation of receiving the ARC stuff.
> 
> I don't have that version as it was loaded onto my D2 by Anthem.
> 
> Thanks.



Will 1.21b do?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/13445801
> 
> 
> I recently started having problems with my D2 that I purchased Nov. 07, w/ 1.20v. I thought I'd ask questions here 1st.
> 
> 1. I have the D2 set to dvd input but while playing a disc I don't get a picture only a blue vertical stripe down the center of the black screen.When I hit other inputs on the D2 1st, ex. cd, aux, etc. then back to dvd input, then I get a picture/image. Blue stripe disappears.
> 
> 2. I have it set to 16:9 Letterbox (component). I usually get 3"-4" bars at the bottom & top of my Pioneer 710 rptv screen. Now they are about 12" top & bottom. If I go into the #7 screen menu I can change it, but it always starts out with a very narrow picture. Once I get the right size picture I can go to the setup menu and it will change back to the narrow/letterbox again. Then I have to go to the #7 screen and change it by picking any other mode, (Pan. Ana. or letterbox. It will stay with whatever I choose until I power/off and turn back on. Then it will be back to the narrow picture again.
> 
> 3. I checked the settings on the tv and dvd player and they both look ok. The sound is ok also. I did some changes to the D2's menu's under the #7 but everything has been fine for the last 2-3 weeks. It just recently started acting strange.
> 
> 4. I have a hdtv tuner connected to input 1 on the set and the dvd is on input 2. While the dvd is playing I can hit input 1 on the set and see a dvd picture. I'm not sure if this is normal either.
> 
> Thanks for any help. I'm about ready to pack the D2 up and send it either my dealer or Anthem for repair.



You should try the new (V1.31) firmware first.


There has been a long-standing bug where the Video Source Adjust / Scale Out setting changes unexpectedly, on power-up, for the input that happens to be selected when you power up the Anthem. The workaround is to manually change Scale Out back to the correct setting.


That bug should be fixed by now, but I'm not sure exactly which version of the Anthem software has the fix.


----------------------------------------------


On your HDTV vs. DVD input issue, go into Setup / Source Setup and make sure you "disable" (in the first setup line for each source) any of the "overlayed" sources you are not actually using -- e.g., DVD2 vs. DVD1.


You access the overlayed sources by pressing the input selection button more than once on the remote. If you are doing that by accident, or if the Anthem is picking up 2 commands instead of one, you might accidentally select one of those. And if it doesn't happen to be set up correctly you can get the type of unexpected input assignments you are describing.


The factory default settings for some of those overlayed inputs were kind of odd, so it could very well be that this is what you are seeing.


ETA: Also, reread the Video Calibration for Non-ISF Techs post in the collection of links in the first post of this thread. Then read the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling posts. If you have a misunderstanding about how to use the combination of the Setup menu, the Video Source Adjust menu, the video output shape settings in your player, and the video shape settings in your display, those posts may help you.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab

Any update on the Room-EQ upgrade to the D2? It's really the only thing keeping me from buying one (to go with my P5 and Sigs).


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/13442358
> 
> 
> Hey guys! just st up the D2 in theater yesterday. It's accompanied by a Bryston 4BSST and a Sunfire Cinema Grand 5-channel amp. All's well, but I can't seem to be getting 7.1, is it a problem with my Sunfire, or am I doing something wrong? When doing the noise test, my center speaker wasn't working, is there something wrong with the center channel speaker which is causing the anthem to not be able to detect 7.1?
> 
> 
> Help guys, Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Farhan.



I had that same problem when I first received my D2. It came with version 1.21d. I had updated the firmware to 1.29j, and I have not had the problem since. I'm now on fw 1.31. I would suggest you update to the latest firmware to see if that will fix your problem.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13446606
> 
> 
> Any update on the Room-EQ upgrade to the D2? It's really the only thing keeping me from buying one (to go with my P5 and Sigs).



What update are you looking for? The new D2s are shipping with ARC. So, if that's what you are waiting for, then the only thing you have to do is order one, and you will get the ARC. Anthem has now started shipping, or will soon begin shipping, the ARC for existing D2 owners.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13446626
> 
> 
> What update are you looking for? The new D2s are shipping with ARC. So, if that's what you are waiting for, then the only thing you have to do is order one, and you will get the ARC. Anthem has now started shipping, or will soon begin shipping, the ARC for existing D2 owners.



Ah, cool! I just did some more detailed searching and found the "ARC" term (which I was previously unaware of).


Quick question - how many frequency bands does it equalize, or is it doing something different? I'm somewhat familiar with Audyssey, which in some implementations is limited to 8 or 12 frequencies, making it only semi-useful.


Thanks!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/13445770
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, and netroamer. I disconnected all the HDMI inputs, and output, but got the same result. I even tried to reload v1.11 but it won't let me.



My Philosophy about doing D2 upgrades is NEVER

do them when I can't pick up the phone and get

Nick to Answer


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13446666
> 
> 
> Ah, cool! I just did some more detailed searching and found the "ARC" term (which I was previously unaware of).
> 
> 
> Quick question - how many frequency bands does it equalize, or is it doing something different? I'm somewhat familiar with Audyssey, which in some implementations is limited to 8 or 12 frequencies, making it only semi-useful.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I'm not sure. I have not received mine yet.


----------



## Egan

Bob, I used a different PC and it installed correctly, thanks for your help!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/13446762
> 
> 
> Bob, I used a different PC and it installed correctly, thanks for your help!



Cool!


Please DO take the time to write up what happened and email Anthem tech support. Give them details on the PC that failed and on the PC that worked.


They are still working on making the installer more robust and all information like this is helpful to them.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/13446762
> 
> 
> Bob, I used a different PC and it installed correctly, thanks for your help!



I 2nd Bob's Advice.


Call Nick and tell him what is different between the two PCs.


It will HELP ANTHEM.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13446666
> 
> 
> Ah, cool! I just did some more detailed searching and found the "ARC" term (which I was previously unaware of).
> 
> 
> Quick question - how many frequency bands does it equalize, or is it doing something different? I'm somewhat familiar with Audyssey, which in some implementations is limited to 8 or 12 frequencies, making it only semi-useful.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Anthem has been pretty tight-lipped about the inner workings of ARC. What they've said publicly can be found in the Product Data Sheet, which can be downloaded from, for example, this post here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post13061917 


--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13446842
> 
> 
> Anthem has been pretty tight-lipped about the inner workings of ARC. What they've said publicly can be found in the Product Data Sheet, which can be downloaded from, for example, this post here:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post13061917
> 
> 
> --Bob




I saw that, but it didn't indicate any specifics. Of course the graphs on the left make it look like it has to be doing things at a pretty granular level (more than 12 frequencies), but it would be nice to get some definitive information.


Otherwise I can just pick up an Onkyo 905 or something for a fraction of the price, and many (not all) of the same features.


----------



## dmorse4765

I installed 1.31 using a Mac Mini power PC with Boot Camp, Windows XP and a Keyspan adapter and it worked fine. No problems.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13446928
> 
> 
> I saw that, but it didn't indicate any specifics. Of course the graphs on the left make it look like it has to be doing things at a pretty granular level (more than 12 frequencies), but it would be nice to get some definitive information.
> 
> 
> Otherwise I can just pick up an Onkyo 905 or something for a fraction of the price, and many (not all) of the same features.



I haven't seen any write ups on ARC that go into useful details of this sort. If you do happen to find some, please post links here!


I guess you could always call Anthem and tell them you need more pre-sales info on ARC than your local dealer is able to provide.


My guess is they are deliberately trying to keep it mysterious, accepting the risk that this might cost them some sales. Their technology write ups on the video portion of the D2 were better, but not great.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis

I bet the answer to this question is obvious but I'll ask it anyway:


I just set up an amp for the Zone2 output, and for some reason the D2 seems only able to pass analog signals to Zone2. Any signal that comes in digital (Optical, HDMI, etc.) it does not seem to be able to pass along.


Thanks in advance,


David


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/13445916
> 
> 
> Yes, this only affects SACD. DVD-A is perfect. Stereo SACD and 5.1 SACD are fine too. It is just 3.0, 4.0 and 5.0 SACDs that have the problem. Not all SACDs have a LFE .1 track in the multichannel layer. Most popular music SACDs have 5.1, but 80% of my classical music SACDs are 3.0, 4.0 and 5.0 channel.
> 
> 
> I have a 980, so that is all I can comment on. I don't know how this affects the 970.



Update: I don't think the Oppo 980H is the root cause of the problem. I did some further listening tests today between the HDMI multichannel PCM and the analog outputs. I used a disc that was SACD 5.0 multichannel. The Oppo is definitely reading from the multichannel layer. So for some reason, the Anthem is not acknowledging the center/surround tracks. (When I tested yesterday, I was using a 5.0 disc that had a weak center channel mix and that's why I thought the Oppo was playing the SACD stereo layer. It was the only disc that I listened closely to - the other I simply relied upon the D2's report on how many channels it was receiving.)


BTW, I listened to some 5.1 SACDs after I discovered that the Oppo is working as expected. I A/B'd the Oppo multichannel analog vs HDMI output. I was surprised that I could not distinguish a difference between the two outputs. I think this demonstrates the quality of the analog outputs on the Oppo, as well as the A/D and DSP sections of the Anthem D2.


I will give Anthem tech support a call on Monday and see what they have to say. I'll post my findings here. Thanks again everyone for the advice!


Bart


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13447361
> 
> 
> I bet the answer to this question is obvious but I'll ask it anyway:
> 
> 
> I just set up an amp for the Zone2 output, and for some reason the D2 seems only able to pass analog signals to Zone2. Any signal that comes in digital (Optical, HDMI, etc.) it does not seem to be able to pass along.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> David



The only way to get a digital audio signal out to the analog audio outputs for Zone 2 is to have it "processed".


Processing only happens on the Main path. See section 2.2 of the manual, particularly the note at the end of that section.


So what you need to do if you want to use a digital audio source for Zone 2 listening is to Copy Main -> Zone 2, either in Setup / Source Setup or on the fly using the Remote (see Section 4.3 of the manual).


Then make your input device selection using the Main path.


Alternatively you can hook up your source device via the standard analog stereo jacks AS WELL as the digital audio connection you use for the Main path. If the source device will also down-mix its audio to stereo for output to those Anthem jacks, then you are good to go even for multi-channel content without Copying Main -> Zone 2, and you will be able to select that device for Zone 2 listening using the Zone 2 path -- i.e., independent of whatever is selected for input on the Main path.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/13447438
> 
> 
> I will give Anthem tech support a call on Monday and see what they have to say. I'll post my findings here. Thanks again everyone for the advice!
> 
> 
> Bart



Good plan. While you are waiting, what Audio Mode are you using in the Anthem? The Audio mode may limit what the Anthem can accept as incoming HDMI PCM.


In particular, make sure THX post processing is turned off.


You might need to use NONE for these odd input channel configurations, as the surround algorithms may depend upon either stereo or 5.1 input.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13447592
> 
> 
> So what you need to do if you want to use a digital audio source for Zone 2 listening is to Copy Main -> Zone 2, either in Setup / Source Setup or on the fly using the Remote (see Section 4.3 of the manual).
> 
> 
> Then make your input device selection using the Main path.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob - if you do this does that mean that the same music will also be playing on my Main speakers (unless I turn my power amps off)?


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/13447438
> 
> 
> Update: I don't think the Oppo 980H is the root cause of the problem. I did some further listening tests today between the HDMI multichannel PCM and the analog outputs. I used a disc that was SACD 5.0 multichannel. The Oppo is definitely reading from the multichannel layer. So for some reason, the Anthem is not acknowledging the center/surround tracks. (When I tested yesterday, I was using a 5.0 disc that had a weak center channel mix and that's why I thought the Oppo was playing the SACD stereo layer. It was the only disc that I listened closely to - the other I simply relied upon the D2's report on how many channels it was receiving.)
> 
> 
> BTW, I listened to some 5.1 SACDs after I discovered that the Oppo is working as expected. I A/B'd the Oppo multichannel analog vs HDMI output. I was surprised that I could not distinguish a difference between the two outputs. I think this demonstrates the quality of the analog outputs on the Oppo, as well as the A/D and DSP sections of the Anthem D2.
> 
> 
> I will give Anthem tech support a call on Monday and see what they have to say. I'll post my findings here. Thanks again everyone for the advice!
> 
> 
> Bart



I don't suppose you have any way to connect the OPPO to another processor so see if you get the same issue?


I read on Secrets of Home Theater Oppo 98x write ups that they have an issue with bass management for any x.0 sources, but I don't see how that would cause the other channels to fail, it apparently just causes the LFE channel to not get fed any signal. Anything with x.1 works fine. I can't remember if this was a SACD only issue either, but like I said I don't really see how this is your cause, but worth a thought.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## yourlilbro

To Bob,

Thanks for helping out. I will try to check as soon as I get back from my Niece's 3rd B'day party







.


To Ninja,

I will also update the firmware as soon as I get a serial cable.



Plus, does anyone know why I can't seem to get into the OSD? Everytime I press setup it only comes out in my Anthem's front panel display.



Thanks,

sorry for being a noob.


Farhan.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13446740
> 
> 
> My Philosophy about doing D2 upgrades is NEVER
> 
> do them when I can't pick up the phone and get
> 
> Nick to Answer



So you must know when he has coffee break, smoke break and a crap break then.


----------



## yourlilbro

Also, I'am using a Prismasonic 1500R lens. When going through the scaling setup on the anthem, I put in Anamorphic stretch, but this does nothing to the letterbox movie, I also tried letterbox/pillarbox, and panoramic, All of this do nothing. Do I need that software update?


Now?


Thanks,

Farhan.


----------



## The Bogg

Farhan, I've got the same lens. Room's almost done so I'll be hooking it up to the Anthem soon. Did you have any problems getting it to work properly? Any tips on setup?

thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13447770
> 
> 
> Bob - if you do this does that mean that the same music will also be playing on my Main speakers (unless I turn my power amps off)?



Yes, normally it does. Again, only the Main path can "process" digital audio inputs. And if you are using the Main path to process that for Zone 2, then you can't specify an alternate audio source for the Main path.


However each Zone has its own power on/off. I don't have a Zone 2 setup so I'm not sure what happens if you Copy Main -> Zone 2, select a Main path input device and then power off the Main path.


You can also Mute the Main path independently of Zone 2 (each path has it's own volume controls, and volume control happens after the digital audio is processed).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/13447966
> 
> 
> Also, I'am using a Prismasonic 1500R lens. When going through the scaling setup on the anthem, I put in Anamorphic stretch, but this does nothing to the letterbox movie, I also tried letterbox/pillarbox, and panoramic, All of this do nothing. Do I need that software update?
> 
> 
> Now?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Farhan.



I suspect you just don't understand what those settings actually do yet. To do a Constant Image Height setup for example you need to COMBINE those Scale Out settings with appropriate, custom, Crop Input settings. See the Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling posts in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/13447905
> 
> 
> Plus, does anyone know why I can't seem to get into the OSD? Everytime I press setup it only comes out in my Anthem's front panel display.



This could be a hardware problem in the Anthem.


First check the Setup / Displays and Timeouts menu and make sure all the settings match the factory defaults as shown in the picture in the manual (Section 3.12).


Also try changing the Main OS Color in that menu to something other than Blue. Some projectors have trouble syncing to a pure Blue background.


If that doesn't make the Setup menu appear on screen then you may have a hardware problem with the S-video circuit inside the Anthem that is used, among other things, to display those menus.


If you have a problem with that circuit, typically you will also not be able to get good video for very long (i.e, more than say 20 minutes) from any S-video input source devices.


If this appears to be the case, call Anthem tech support.


I'm assuming you can get the Anthem's internally generated test patterns to display properly, right? Video Source Adjust / Patterns under the "7" key on the remote?


ETA: Also, if you are using Component video output from the Anthem, make sure you are using the MAIN Component output jacks. The Zone 2 Component output doesn't carry the on screen display menus. Using the wrong set of Component output jacks for your Main display may also explain some of the confusion you are having with Scale Output settings and the like.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks Bob, I'll try all of your suggestions on Monday. Have a good Easter.


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13447658
> 
> 
> Good plan. While you are waiting, what Audio Mode are you using in the Anthem? The Audio mode may limit what the Anthem can accept as incoming HDMI PCM.
> 
> 
> In particular, make sure THX post processing is turned off.
> 
> 
> You might need to use NONE for these odd input channel configurations, as the surround algorithms may depend upon either stereo or 5.1 input.
> 
> --Bob



For my SACD/DVD-A input I use "None" for 6.0 and "Stereo" for 2.0. I don't do any processing except bass management. And again, it works fine for a full 5.1 channel stream - so I think I am G2G here. (processing yucky







)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13447836
> 
> 
> I don't suppose you have any way to connect the OPPO to another processor so see if you get the same issue?
> 
> 
> I read on Secrets of Home Theater Oppo 98x write ups that they have an issue with bass management for any x.0 sources, but I don't see how that would cause the other channels to fail, it apparently just causes the LFE channel to not get fed any signal. Anything with x.1 works fine. I can't remember if this was a SACD only issue either, but like I said I don't really see how this is your cause, but worth a thought.



Unfortunately, I have only the D2 and no other HDMI-capable processor. I know that some folks have connected the 980 to the Integra 9.8 or whatever without any issues. But that's not an Anthem!










So I'm really curious to talk to the folks in Mississuaga on Monday. To go out on a limb (like a late Saturday night sort of limb) I think my issue is one of two things: EITHER the D2 is not recognizing the 3.0, 4.0 or 5.0 stream as such and thinks it is a 2.0 OR the Oppo is improperly flagging the stream so that the D2 can't figure out how many PCM channels it is receiving. Knowing that other processors have successfully processed SACD 5.0, 4.0 etc. streams has me leaning towards the D2 having the problem.


I said this in an earlier post and I think it is worth repeating - it amazed me that there was virtually no difference between the Oppo's analog output and the multichannel PCM output via HDMI. Quite a testament to both the Oppo's analog out and to the Anthem's A/D and DSP. Both are impressive pieces of gear.


BTW I played a bit with the HDMI Map settings to no avail. (I expected some wacky results like the right channel to come out of my subwoofer or the left surround to come out the center channel - but these settings didn't seem to affect anything. Huh.)


On a separate topic - I especially like how the Oppo can send 16:9 and 4:3 in the right aspect ratio and the D2 can automatically format either aspect ratio properly. This prevents me from needing to use DVD2 on the D2 for 4:3, which is an added convenience.


Bart


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13448143
> 
> 
> Yes, normally it does. Again, only the Main path can "process" digital audio inputs. And if you are using the Main path to process that for Zone 2, then you can't specify an alternate audio source for the Main path.
> 
> 
> However each Zone has its own power on/off. I don't have a Zone 2 setup so I'm not sure what happens if you Copy Main -> Zone 2, select a Main path input device and then power off the Main path.
> 
> 
> You can also Mute the Main path independently of Zone 2 (each path has it's own volume controls, and volume control happens after the digital audio is processed).
> 
> --Bob



I don't mean to complain, and I really do love my D2, but this seems crazy to me. How hard can it be to run Zone2 through a digital audio processor? I don't know about you guys but I don't have too many analog inputs these days.


----------



## AbMagFab

For D2 owners:


I'm seriously considering getting a D2. I currently have a P5 and Sig 7.1 setup (S6/C5/ADP3/S2) with a PB13-Ultra. I'm using an Onkyo 905 right now, mostly as a pre-pro (and powering the ADP3's) but really like what I'm reading and what I've heard with the D2 (w/ ARC).


So - if you have the D2:

1) What are the top 1-3 things that would make you recommend getting one?

2) What are the top 1-3 things that you wish they would have done differently/added/removed?


Given the price, I'd like to make sure it's worth it, versus just changing over to an Integra 9.8 or something. (I know I'll also need 2 more amps to replace the 905.)


Thanks in advance for any advice!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13449620
> 
> 
> I don't mean to complain, and I really do love my D2, but this seems crazy to me. How hard can it be to run Zone2 through a digital audio processor? I don't know about you guys but I don't have too many analog inputs these days.



I can see that for the optical and coax digital audio inputs. The HDMI digital audio needs to go through a video circuit (since HDMI audio is embedded inside the video signal) so I can understand not doing it for that.


Anyway, it is what it is. If separately selectable zone 2 digital audio is important to you then the D2 is not for you.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13450340
> 
> 
> For D2 owners:
> 
> 
> I'm seriously considering getting a D2. I currently have a P5 and Sig 7.1 setup (S6/C5/ADP3/S2) with a PB13-Ultra. I'm using an Onkyo 905 right now, mostly as a pre-pro (and powering the ADP3's) but really like what I'm reading and what I've heard with the D2 (w/ ARC).
> 
> 
> So - if you have the D2:
> 
> 1) What are the top 1-3 things that would make you recommend getting one?
> 
> 2) What are the top 1-3 things that you wish they would have done differently/added/removed?
> 
> 
> Given the price, I'd like to make sure it's worth it, versus just changing over to an Integra 9.8 or something. (I know I'll also need 2 more amps to replace the 905.)
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice!



Recommend items:

1) The quality of the video and audio processing. Simply stellar.

2) Integration and flexibility. The D2 is truly a hub.

3) The ARC-1. Room correction that most of us could only dream of.


Things I wish they did (none of these are possible to add to existing product):

1) More than 6 discrete inputs (support for > 5.1), or a way to field update (dealer-replaceable plug-in board for example).

2) More HDMI inputs.

3) Ethernet on board. The serial port has some uses, but a LAN connection would open up myriad possibilities for updating and integration.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13450340
> 
> 
> For D2 owners:
> 
> 
> I'm seriously considering getting a D2. I currently have a P5 and Sig 7.1 setup (S6/C5/ADP3/S2) with a PB13-Ultra. I'm using an Onkyo 905 right now, mostly as a pre-pro (and powering the ADP3's) but really like what I'm reading and what I've heard with the D2 (w/ ARC).
> 
> 
> So - if you have the D2:
> 
> 1) What are the top 1-3 things that would make you recommend getting one?
> 
> 2) What are the top 1-3 things that you wish they would have done differently/added/removed?
> 
> 
> Given the price, I'd like to make sure it's worth it, versus just changing over to an Integra 9.8 or something. (I know I'll also need 2 more amps to replace the 905.)
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice!



The main gotchas for D2 purchasers are as follows:


1) It is HDMI V1.1. That isn't going to change via upgrade. If Anthem ever comes out with an HDMI V1.3 product (and out best intelligence to date is they haven't even BEGUN such a project) it will be a new product.


2) This means it will never have support for "Deep Color" nor for decoding TrueHD or DTS-HD MA bitstreams inside the D2. You will need to buy players that decode those internally to HDMI PCM. "Deep Color" is pretty much a non-issue as Blu-Ray, HD-DVD, and HDTV formats do not allow content that contains "Deep Color".


3) It is limited to 5.1 channel input for Analog audio and for HDMI PCM. It can raise both of those to 7.1 speaker output, but you can't input more than 5.1.


4) Although it has 4 jacks for subwoofers, they all share the same signals and controls. There is no way to separately control the signal to the 4 subwoofers.


5) There is only one video processor. This means for example, you can't mix audio from an HDMI source with video from any other source because the video processor is tied up extracting the audio from the video stream coming in from the HDMI source.


6) Updates and custom installation remote control are via RS-232 serial connection as opposed to something more modern like ethernet or USB.


7) The Anthem dealer network is sparse and buying from a non-authorized dealer voids the warranty. You may have to travel to get to a dealer.


8) The video solution does not provide a means to "squeeze" video input streams. This is an issue for some folks setting up Constant Image Height projector systems who want to leave their anamorphic lens in place and have the Anthem squeeze normal 16:9 programming so that the lens doesn't make it look too stretched. Such folks need to be prepared to swap out their anamorphic lens for a normal lens when viewing normal (16:9 or 4:3) content.


9) There is only one HDMI output. If you want to drive more than one HDMI display you will need to do something with and external HDMI switch/splitter.


And that's about it.


On the upside, the audio and video quality is SPECTACULAR. The video processing is extraordinarily flexible -- comparable to the best standalone video specialty processors for home theater. With the addition of ARC the D2 also provides a world-class Room EQ solution.


Setup and operation are also very flexible. It is very rare that we've had a poster in this thread come up with a configuration problem that we couldn't solve (other than the folks who want to drive more than one HDMI display).


And Anthem's technical support is top notch. The best I've ever encountered for home theater products. This thread is chock full of examples of that. This is incredibly important given how immature the HDMI market is -- and Blu-Ray as well.


The D2 is, and remains, the single best home theater product purchase I've ever made.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13451251
> 
> 
> The main gotchas for D2 purchasers are as follows:
> 
> 
> 1) It is HDMI V1.1. That isn't going to change via upgrade. If Anthem ever comes out with an HDMI V1.3 product (and out best intelligence to date is they haven't even BEGUN such a project) it will be a new product.
> 
> 
> 2) This means it will never have support for "Deep Color" nor for decoding TrueHD or DTS-HD MA bitstreams inside the D2. You will need to buy players that decode those internally to HDMI PCM. "Deep Color" is pretty much a non-issue as Blu-Ray, HD-DVD, and HDTV formats do not allow content that contains "Deep Color".
> 
> 
> 3) It is limited to 5.1 channel input for Analog audio and for HDMI PCM. It can raise both of those to 7.1 speaker output, but you can't input more than 5.1.
> 
> 
> 4) Although it has 4 jacks for subwoofers, they all share the same signals and controls. There is no way to separately control the signal to the 4 subwoofers.
> 
> 
> 5) There is only one video processor. This means for example, you can't mix audio from an HDMI source with video from any other source because the video processor is tied up extracting the audio from the video stream coming in from the HDMI source.
> 
> 
> 6) Updates and custom installation remote control are via RS-232 serial connection as opposed to something more modern like ethernet or USB.
> 
> 
> 7) The Anthem dealer network is sparse and buying from a non-authorized dealer voids the warranty. You may have to travel to get to a dealer.
> 
> 
> 8) The video solution does not provide a means to "squeeze" video input streams. This is an issue for some folks setting up Constant Image Height projector systems who want to leave their anamorphic lens in place and have the Anthem squeeze normal 16:9 programming so that the lens doesn't make it look too stretched. Such folks need to be prepared to swap out their anamorphic lens for a normal lens when viewing normal (16:9 or 4:3) content.
> 
> 
> 9) There is only one HDMI output. If you want to drive more than one HDMI display you will need to do something with and external HDMI switch/splitter.
> 
> 
> And that's about it.
> 
> 
> On the upside, the audio and video quality is SPECTACULAR. The video processing is extraordinarily flexible -- comparable to the best standalone video specialty processors for home theater. With the addition of ARC the D2 also provides a world-class Room EQ solution.
> 
> 
> Setup and operation are also very flexible. It is very rare that we've had a poster in this thread come up with a configuration problem that we couldn't solve (other than the folks who want to drive more than one HDMI display).
> 
> 
> And Anthem's technical support is top notch. The best I've ever encountered for home theater products. This thread is chock full of examples of that. This is incredibly important given how immature the HDMI market is -- and Blu-Ray as well.
> 
> 
> The D2 is, and remains, the single best home theater product purchase I've ever made.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, this is great.


I have a great local dealer, where I got my current batch of items, so I'm good there.


"Deep Color" - Are you saying there isn't a source out there yet that supports sending deep color? I know I have my projector set this way, and it was calibrated this way. I was under the impression that the setting I configured on my HTPC also set it this way? If nothin now, what was it implemented for? But I'm not totally up to speed on this, so can you give me a little more detail, and/or shoot me a link?


I don't care about DTS-MA/HD or TrueHD decoding in the pre-pro, but I do care about multi-channel LPCM. Are you saying the D2 only supports 6-channel LPCM over HDMI, and not 8-channel? That's actually a potential big deal, as more and more BD are coming with 7.1 soundtracks (not many right now, but presumable we should be seeing more). Is this software/firmware upgradable, or a hardware limitation?


In terms of one HDMI out - does it support a second output over component, or even composite? If I wanted to have a small display in my rack area, does it support upping everything to HDMI, and at the same time sending everything to component or composite? Or is there only one path, digital or analog?


The constant-height thing could become an issue, but when I'm ready for a 2.4 screen, I'll need to upgrade my projector to one that makes it easier to switch formats via IR or something (my current VW60 might actually support it already).


Non-issues for me (now and as far out as I can see): 6-channel analog in, single sub control (although this might be an issue in the distant future, I can probably live with it or upgrade then), serial-port upgrades, ethernet (would be nice, but hardly a deal-killer).


Thanks again for the thorough response. If you can help a little more with my additional questions, that would be great!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13451622
> 
> 
> Thanks, this is great.
> 
> 
> I have a great local dealer, where I got my current batch of items, so I'm good there.
> 
> 
> "Deep Color" - Are you saying there isn't a source out there yet that supports sending deep color? I know I have my projector set this way, and it was calibrated this way. I was under the impression that the setting I configured on my HTPC also set it this way? If nothin now, what was it implemented for? But I'm not totally up to speed on this, so can you give me a little more detail, and/or shoot me a link?
> 
> 
> I don't care about DTS-MA/HD or TrueHD decoding in the pre-pro, but I do care about multi-channel LPCM. Are you saying the D2 only supports 6-channel LPCM over HDMI, and not 8-channel? That's actually a potential big deal, as more and more BD are coming with 7.1 soundtracks (not many right now, but presumable we should be seeing more). Is this software/firmware upgradable, or a hardware limitation?
> 
> 
> In terms of one HDMI out - does it support a second output over component, or even composite? If I wanted to have a small display in my rack area, does it support upping everything to HDMI, and at the same time sending everything to component or composite? Or is there only one path, digital or analog?
> 
> 
> The constant-height thing could become an issue, but when I'm ready for a 2.4 screen, I'll need to upgrade my projector to one that makes it easier to switch formats via IR or something (my current VW60 might actually support it already).
> 
> 
> Non-issues for me (now and as far out as I can see): 6-channel analog in, single sub control (although this might be an issue in the distant future, I can probably live with it or upgrade then), serial-port upgrades, ethernet (would be nice, but hardly a deal-killer).
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the thorough response. If you can help a little more with my additional questions, that would be great!



The ONLY sources for "Deep Color" content at the moment are a new HD camcorder (Sony I believe), or computer graphics rendered on the fly from a special computer graphics card (note that this does NOT mean playing movie discs on an HTPC).


The Blu-Ray and HD-DVD disc specs don't support "Deep Color". There may be a NEW disc format in the future that adds it, but the contents of every "Blu-Ray" and "HD-DVD" disc are, and always will be "traditional color". The data on those discs is also recorded as YCbCr 4:2:0 (i.e., both the horizontal and vertical spatial color resolution are halved compared to gray scale spatial resolution). Basically they can't cram more color data into those formats without running afoul of the disk capacity and max bits per second disk read limits for the format.


Similarly, there is no "deep color" content for HDTV, SD-DVD discs, or SD-TV.


There have been various claims that video processors can take "traditional color" input and produce better "deep color" output by using the extra bits to hold what would otherwise be rounding errors in their processing. Although you can imagine cases where this would produce a measurable improvement, in real world video watching you can't really gain because you can't create information that wasn't in the source content to begin with. Rounding errors are ALREADY built into the source content.


NOTE HOWEVER: 10 or 12 bit (i.e., deep color) video processing INSIDE of devices -- whether video processors or TVs -- *IS* a good thing with real benefits. It is the step to where you are TRANSMITTING that color bandwidth over the HDMI V1.3 cables where things get kind of hand-wavy. Also Deep Color puts higher demands on HDMI cable quality, just like higher video resolution does.


----------------------------------


Yes, the D2 (and AVM-50) only support 6 channel (5.1) input for HDMI PCM, just as is the case for their multi-channel Analog inputs. The Anthems will "process" that up to 7.1 speaker output.


We have a poster here, FILMMIXER, who is in the business of making audio tracks for big budget, commercial movies. He has commented on this several times, basically to the effect that the result of feeding 5.1 into the Anthem and letting it produce 7.1 output is very good indeed -- often indistinguishable. But that there are some few films which are attempting to feature aggressive rear surround content in 7.1 tracks.


Personally, I think 7.1 content will be nothing much more than a novelty for quite some time -- quite possibly forever. Keep in mind that movie theaters aren't set up for 7.1 either.


Nevertheless, it is a true limit of the Anthems, and the Anthems will almost certainly NOT receive an upgrade to add 7.1 input. If that bothers you, then the Anthems are not for you.


NOTE: This is a bigger deal for cheaper AVRs that DON'T offer a good audio solution for raising 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output. Keep in mind that the vast majority of the home theater market out there right now is 5.1 speakers or less, and commercial movies are produced accordingly. That means even 7.1 tracks are designed to work well in 5.1 speaker setups. And matrixing rear surround content into the side surround channels of a 7.1 track, specifically to help 5.1 input systems produce 7.1 speaker output, is still normal.


-------------------------------------


The Component output situation is complicated. First you can't get most HDMI sources out as Component due to copy protection.


You CAN "pass through" a Component source to the Zone 2 Component outputs while ALSO processing an HDMI source for the Main outputs. If you want these to be from the same device then you need a source that has both styles of output active simultaneously.


NOTE: Both HD-DVD and Blu-Ray have, in their specs and in every player, a restriction that can be activated by any movie disc that prohibits high def video output over Component whether or not you are also using HDMI. To date there are NO DISCS that activate this restriction, and there is no reason to believe the studios are going to activate that restriction for new movies any time soon. So right now, most of those players implement unrestricted Component simultaneous with HDMI. But just so you know...


Also, most HDTV set top boxes allow simultaneous Component and HDMI. But most upscaling SD-DVD players DO NOT! For SD-DVD players you will likely be limited to NO Component output (not even 480i or 480p) if you are using the HDMI output.


Finally, the Anthem only has one video processor. If you are using that to process HDMI video (scaling and such) for your Main display, then you can't separately process Component video for your Zone 2 display. Your choices are to have Zone 2 be a COPY of the Main input (either processed or unprocessed) or to be UNprocessed video from another source. And if you Copy the Main video processed, you can't separately control the processing for Zone 2. That means you can't scale Main to one resolution for you primary display and Zone 2 to another resolution for your secondary display for example.


Most people use Zone 2 by separately cabling Component from their sources and passing UNprocessed Component to their secondary display (which means scaling and such gets done inside the secondary display).


See Chapter 2 of the manual for details.

--Bob


----------



## Kruginator

Bob,


I see you are a prolific poster in both the D2 and the Denon 3800 threads. Do you sleep?


Thanks for your contribution. I appreciate it because you have helped me in the past and your insights continue to help me grow my understanding of the details around this hobby.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/13452548
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I see you are a prolific poster in both the D2 and the Denon 3800 threads. Do you sleep?
> 
> 
> Thanks for your contribution. I appreciate it because you have helped me in the past and your insights continue to help me grow my understanding of the details around this hobby.



We here at "Bob Pariseau" attempt to provide quality service 24/7/365.


Sleep is overrated.










--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13451135
> 
> 
> Anyway, it is what it is. If separately selectable zone 2 digital audio is important to you then the D2 is not for you.
> 
> --Bob



Its not that big a deal, and as I said I love my D2 - no real complaints - I just ran some RCA cables from my AppleTV and all is well.


Bob - I also just set up an Oppo 980H DVD player for playing regular DVDs instead of using my PS3 (as you suggested) and I am shocked at how much better it looks (I am now running the input at 480i rather than with the PS3 which ran 480p). It really is amazing. I highly recommend 480i for DVDs - what an amazing difference!


----------



## Ian_Currie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/13446161
> 
> 
> I have a question:
> 
> 
> I had setup all my inputs to have mode=none when playing 6.0 sources. Today I thought I'd try using some of the modes (PLIIX etc) however, I cannot get my D2 to change modes.
> 
> 
> I tried both the remote and the unit, hitting MODE followed by rotating the volume knob. I also tried power the unit on/off. I tried going into SETUP and changing the default mode for the current input. And I tried DD 5.1 versus uncompressed 5.1.
> 
> 
> Am I missing something, or is there perhaps something wrong with the latest software - or specifically my machine?



I thought I'd give this a gentle bump... and add some info. I *can* change the mode if the source is TOSLINK, but not if the source is HDMI.


If anyone has any info about this, I'd appreciate it, thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/13452807
> 
> 
> I thought I'd give this a gentle bump... and add some info. I *can* change the mode if the source is TOSLINK, but not if the source is HDMI.
> 
> 
> If anyone has any info about this, I'd appreciate it, thanks.



The modes that are actually available depend upon whether you have 7.1 speakers configured, whether THX post processing is turned on, and the type of audio input you are receiving.


Do you have Rear surround speakers configured in your system? If not, I believe your only choice may be whether THX is turned on or not.


The Audio Modes deal with raising a fewer number of input channels to a larger number of speaker output channels. If you have 6 channel input and a 5.1 speaker configuration, there is no work for those modes to do.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13452369
> 
> 
> The ONLY sources for "Deep Color" content at the moment are a new HD camcorder (Sony I believe), or computer graphics rendered on the fly from a special computer graphics card (note that this does NOT mean playing movie discs on an HTPC).
> 
> 
> The Blu-Ray and HD-DVD disc specs don't support "Deep Color". There may be a NEW disc format in the future that adds it, but the contents of every "Blu-Ray" and "HD-DVD" disc are, and always will be "traditional color". The data on those discs is also recorded as YCbCr 4:2:0 (i.e., both the horizontal and vertical spatial color resolution are halved compared to gray scale spatial resolution). Basically they can't cram more color data into those formats without running afoul of the disk capacity and max bits per second disk read limits for the format.
> 
> 
> Similarly, there is no "deep color" content for HDTV, SD-DVD discs, or SD-TV.
> 
> 
> There have been various claims that video processors can take "traditional color" input and produce better "deep color" output by using the extra bits to hold what would otherwise be rounding errors in their processing. Although you can imagine cases where this would produce a measurable improvement, in real world video watching you can't really gain because you can't create information that wasn't in the source content to begin with. Rounding errors are ALREADY built into the source content.
> 
> 
> NOTE HOWEVER: 10 or 12 bit (i.e., deep color) video processing INSIDE of devices -- whether video processors or TVs -- *IS* a good thing with real benefits. It is the step to where you are TRANSMITTING that color bandwidth over the HDMI V1.3 cables where things get kind of hand-wavy. Also Deep Color puts higher demands on HDMI cable quality, just like higher video resolution does.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> Yes, the D2 (and AVM-50) only support 6 channel (5.1) input for HDMI PCM, just as is the case for their multi-channel Analog inputs. The Anthems will "process" that up to 7.1 speaker output.
> 
> 
> We have a poster here, FILMMIXER, who is in the business of making audio tracks for big budget, commercial movies. He has commented on this several times, basically to the effect that the result of feeding 5.1 into the Anthem and letting it produce 7.1 output is very good indeed -- often indistinguishable. But that there are some few films which are attempting to feature aggressive rear surround content in 7.1 tracks.
> 
> 
> Personally, I think 7.1 content will be nothing much more than a novelty for quite some time -- quite possibly forever. Keep in mind that movie theaters aren't set up for 7.1 either.
> 
> 
> Nevertheless, it is a true limit of the Anthems, and the Anthems will almost certainly NOT receive an upgrade to add 7.1 input. If that bothers you, then the Anthems are not for you.
> 
> 
> NOTE: This is a bigger deal for cheaper AVRs that DON'T offer a good audio solution for raising 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output. Keep in mind that the vast majority of the home theater market out there right now is 5.1 speakers or less, and commercial movies are produced accordingly. That means even 7.1 tracks are designed to work well in 5.1 speaker setups. And matrixing rear surround content into the side surround channels of a 7.1 track, specifically to help 5.1 input systems produce 7.1 speaker output, is still normal.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The Component output situation is complicated. First you can't get most HDMI sources out as Component due to copy protection.
> 
> 
> You CAN "pass through" a Component source to the Zone 2 Component outputs while ALSO processing an HDMI source for the Main outputs. If you want these to be from the same device then you need a source that has both styles of output active simultaneously.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Both HD-DVD and Blu-Ray have, in their specs and in every player, a restriction that can be activated by any movie disc that prohibits high def video output over Component whether or not you are also using HDMI. To date there are NO DISCS that activate this restriction, and there is no reason to believe the studios are going to activate that restriction for new movies any time soon. So right now, most of those players implement unrestricted Component simultaneous with HDMI. But just so you know...
> 
> 
> Also, most HDTV set top boxes allow simultaneous Component and HDMI. But most upscaling SD-DVD players DO NOT! For SD-DVD players you will likely be limited to NO Component output (not even 480i or 480p) if you are using the HDMI output.
> 
> 
> Finally, the Anthem only has one video processor. If you are using that to process HDMI video (scaling and such) for your Main display, then you can't separately process Component video for your Zone 2 display. Your choices are to have Zone 2 be a COPY of the Main input (either processed or unprocessed) or to be UNprocessed video from another source. And if you Copy the Main video processed, you can't separately control the processing for Zone 2. That means you can't scale Main to one resolution for you primary display and Zone 2 to another resolution for your secondary display for example.
> 
> 
> Most people use Zone 2 by separately cabling Component from their sources and passing UNprocessed Component to their secondary display (which means scaling and such gets done inside the secondary display).
> 
> 
> See Chapter 2 of the manual for details.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - this is great again, thanks!


One last question (I think!). What happens if I have a 7.1 source that sends 8-channel LPCM to the D2 (with 8 speakers attached)? Does the D2 simply drop the rear 2 channels, then matrix the side two into the rear two? Or is the source device smart enough to know the D2 can only receive 6-channels, and it does some sort of internal matrixing of the other two channels? And is this source device dependent (scary) or is it consistent and part of the spec?


And if it sends all 8 channels, can I use the D2 channel mapping feature to map all 8, or will I only have access to the first 6?


Thanks!

-Mark


----------



## Ian_Currie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13452886
> 
> 
> The modes that are actually available depend upon whether you have 7.1 speakers configured, whether THX post processing is turned on, and the type of audio input you are receiving.
> 
> 
> Do you have Rear surround speakers configured in your system? If not, I believe your only choice may be whether THX is turned on or not.
> 
> 
> The Audio Modes deal with raising a fewer number of input channels to a larger number of speaker output channels. If you have 6 channel input and a 5.1 speaker configuration, there is no work for those modes to do.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks, Bob.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13452623
> 
> 
> We here at "Bob Pariseau" attempt to provide quality service 24/7/365.
> 
> 
> Sleep is overrated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob


BOB is 100% ACCURATE HERE.


----------



## Alimentall




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *B&W700guy* /forum/post/13442174
> 
> 
> You should have purchased the 9.8. For $500.00 more you could have gone Audyssey Pro. The 805 may have pro, but not sure. I think that would be Apples to Apples comparison.



Onkyo, Onkyo, Onkyo..........


Sorry 'Mr Helper'


----------



## RROSEN

AbMagFab,


The D2 only accepts 5.1. In such a way as to react as if there were only 5.1 sent. So in effect from the [email protected]'s perspective it doesn't recognize/see the 6th/7th channels of the 7.1 out from the source and only reads the 5.1 and matrix's the other two channels for it's own out.


There is no mapping or tweaking that cam get around this or I can assure you Bob would have detailed it










That said, I am in agreement with other posters (Bob included) where I really don't see this as an issue for two reasons. Firstly there isn't much content out there ATM and what there is and where there is likely to be in the near future are more likely to be marketing/bragging rights related that a significant trend towards universal adoption. Secondly the sounds amazing outputting 7.1 from 5.1 sources from my experiences. Just thinking of LOTR ROTK chapter 37: Battle of Pelennor Fields gives me goosebumps hahaa.


I also figure that the same engineers who encode that 7.1 track(s) will do everything in their power to ensure that you can pull a matrixed 7.1 from the 5.1 version that will sound as close as possible to the discreet 7.1 version as possible. This only makes sense as the vast majority of the audience will be processing the 5.1 version.


Hahaa, that said, what makes perfect sense to me strangely enough sometimes does not for the majority of others










Cheers,


Richard


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13458654
> 
> 
> AbMagFab,
> 
> 
> The D2 only accepts 5.1. In such a way as to react as if there were only 5.1 sent. So in effect from the [email protected]'s perspective it doesn't recognize/see the 6th/7th channels of the 7.1 out from the source and only reads the 5.1 and matrix's the other two channels for it's own out.
> 
> 
> There is no mapping or tweaking that cam get around this or I can assure you Bob would have detailed it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That said, I am in agreement with other posters (Bob included) where I really don't see this as an issue for two reasons. Firstly there isn't much content out there ATM and what there is and where there is likely to be in the near future are more likely to be marketing/bragging rights related that a significant trend towards universal adoption. Secondly the sounds amazing outputting 7.1 from 5.1 sources from my experiences. Just thinking of LOTR ROTK chapter 37: Battle of Pelennor Fields gives me goosebumps hahaa.
> 
> 
> I also figure that the same engineers who encode that 7.1 track(s) will do everything in their power to ensure that you can pull a matrixed 7.1 from the 5.1 version that will sound as close as possible to the discreet 7.1 version as possible. This only makes sense as the vast majority of the audience will be processing the 5.1 version.
> 
> 
> Hahaa, that said, what makes perfect sense to me strangely enough sometimes does not for the majority of others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



What if there's only a TrueHD/LPCM 7.1 soundtrack on it? What happens when that's sent to the D2?


My concern is that the D2 would lose the wrong channels, and end up with a mess. Or I'd be forced to listen to the overcompressed DD/DTS soundtrack.


(I get the 5.1 to 7.1 matrixing, as I'm doing that currently. I'm not at all worried about that. I worried more about the issue of source media with 7.1 soundtracks.)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2 will tell the player it can only accept up to 5.1 as HDMI PCM. What happens next depends on the player.


The player could refuse to offer the 7.1 track as an available sound track, it could send only the 5.1 subset portion of that 7.1 track, or it could blend the rears into the surrounds and send that as a 5.1 track.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13459041
> 
> 
> The D2 will tell the player it can only accept up to 5.1 as HDMI PCM. What happens next depends on the player.
> 
> 
> The player could refuse to offer the 7.1 track as an available sound track, it could send only the 5.1 subset portion of that 7.1 track, or it could blend the rears into the surrounds and send that as a 5.1 track.
> 
> --Bob



Gotcha - that makes sense... For what it's worth, I went to BB and picked up a random 20 or 30 BD's, and none of them had more than 5.1 tracks on them.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Although new features will of course come out on BD, the vast majority of BD releases over the next couple years will be retreads from the film vaults. Getting even 5.1 tracks on those is a neat trick.

--Bob


----------



## art4mad

I have a Denon DVD-756 that I intend to use as a standard DVD, SACD and DVD-A player as a compliment to my Blu-Ray player. I'm wondering what the best way to set this up would be to get the best picture and sound possible.


The player has an upscaler that will output up to 1080i. I think there is no doubt that the D2's video processor is vastly superior to the Denon's. I would like to hook the Denon up via component cables as I'd like the HDMI input on the D2 I would need to use for it for something else. My plan is this:


Video (both DVD and CD sources on D2):

Denon to D2 via component video


Audio (DVD Source for CDs, DVDs and DVD-A):

Denon to D2 via Digital Coax, Bitstream DD, DTS, Multi PCM DVD-A


Audio (CD Source for SACDs):

Denon to D2 via 5.1 Analog, Multi analog audio setting


What's the best way to output the DVD's video? Should I set it for 480i and let the D2 do both the interlacing and the upscaling, or does it even matter. I have trouble telling the difference when trying it different ways, so perhaps it's all the same...


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *art4mad* /forum/post/13459622
> 
> 
> I have a Denon DVD-756 that I intend to use as a standard DVD, SACD and DVD-A player as a compliment to my Blu-Ray player. I'm wondering what the best way to set this up would be to get the best picture and sound possible.
> 
> 
> The player has an upscaler that will output up to 1080i. I think there is no doubt that the D2's video processor is vastly superior to the Denon's. I would like to hook the Denon up via component cables as I'd like the HDMI input on the D2 I would need to use for it for something else. My plan is this:
> 
> 
> Video (both DVD and CD sources on D2):
> 
> Denon to D2 via component video
> 
> 
> Audio (DVD Source for CDs, DVDs and DVD-A):
> 
> Denon to D2 via Digital Coax, Bitstream DD, DTS, Multi PCM DVD-A
> 
> 
> Audio (CD Source for SACDs):
> 
> Denon to D2 via 5.1 Analog, Multi analog audio setting
> 
> 
> What's the best way to output the DVD's video? Should I set it for 480i and let the D2 do both the interlacing and the upscaling, or does it even matter. I have trouble telling the difference when trying it different ways, so perhaps it's all the same...



Yes, use 480i out and let the D2 do the deinterlacing and upscaling.


Are you really out of HDMI inputs? I would use the HDMI from the Denon for both video and audio (exactly what I do with my Oppo for DVD, SACD and DVD-A).


You'll need to use 6 analog ins if you want multichannel. Multichannel PCM cannot be sent over coax/optical. (Or you can use HDMI.)


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13459895
> 
> 
> Yes, use 480i out and let the D2 do the deinterlacing and upscaling.
> 
> 
> Are you really out of HDMI inputs? I would use the HDMI from the Denon for both video and audio (exactly what I do with my Oppo for DVD, SACD and DVD-A).
> 
> 
> You'll need to use 6 analog ins if you want multichannel. Multichannel PCM cannot be sent over coax/optical. (Or you can use HDMI.)



Don't the analog inputs also bypass all the D2 matrixing capabilities and speaker configurations?


----------



## misterdoggy

what do you do when you have a bluray player that upscales everything automatically to 1080p and you are changing the DVD's all the time from normal and bluray.


right now I am waiting for delivery of my d2 and have it hooked directly into my Sony Bravia and when playing bad quality dvds that are originally 480i it upscales to 1080p and I have lines in the image when theres movement.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13460075
> 
> 
> what do you do when you have a bluray player that upscales everything automatically to 1080p and you are changing the DVD's all the time from normal and bluray.
> 
> 
> right now I am waiting for delivery of my d2 and have it hooked directly into my Sony Bravia and when playing bad quality dvds that are originally 480i it upscales to 1080p and I have lines in the image when theres movement.



What BD player do you have? Sounds like either your BD player stinks at upscaling, or your TV stinks at upscaling (more likely the BD player).


Your best bet is to set everything to Native, feed it all into the D2, and let the D2 do your video processing. I doubt you have anything that will do a better job, so don't let anything else try.


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13460155
> 
> 
> What BD player do you have? Sounds like either your BD player stinks at upscaling, or your TV stinks at upscaling (more likely the BD player).
> 
> 
> Your best bet is to set everything to Native, feed it all into the D2, and let the D2 do your video processing. I doubt you have anything that will do a better job, so don't let anything else try.



I'm waiting for my D2 to come hopefully this week. Its been backordered now for a month.


I have the Sony BDPs500 Blu-ray player and its set to auto ouput to 1080p which the Sony Bravia can play 1080p.


I don't wee where to change the output to something less like 1080i or even less. I thought it would be a decent at upscaling, but after I get the D2 I'd like to know how to change the output to 480i for 480i discs.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13460240
> 
> 
> I'm waiting for my D2 to come hopefully this week. Its been backordered now for a month.
> 
> 
> I have the Sony BDPs500 Blu-ray player and its set to auto ouput to 1080p which the Sony Bravia can play 1080p.
> 
> 
> I don't wee where to change the output to something less like 1080i or even less. I thought it would be a decent at upscaling, but after I get the D2 I'd like to know how to change the output to 480i for 480i discs.



Not sure where you set it, but you should set it to "Native", so it displays 1080p as 1080p, and 480i/p as 480i/p.


----------



## art4mad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13459895
> 
> 
> Yes, use 480i out and let the D2 do the deinterlacing and upscaling.
> 
> 
> Are you really out of HDMI inputs? I would use the HDMI from the Denon for both video and audio (exactly what I do with my Oppo for DVD, SACD and DVD-A).
> 
> 
> You'll need to use 6 analog ins if you want multichannel. Multichannel PCM cannot be sent over coax/optical. (Or you can use HDMI.)



No, I have one available but if I use it I will be maxed out... and I see an Apple TV in my future someday.


Sadly, the Denon will not output SACD multichanel over HDMI... only over the analogs.


Maybe I need a new standard DVD/DVD-A/SACD player. How's the Oppo?


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13460254
> 
> 
> Not sure where you set it, but you should set it to "Native", so it displays 1080p as 1080p, and 480i/p as 480i/p.



I can't find that in the menu "native" of the bluray player


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13459976
> 
> 
> Don't the analog inputs also bypass all the D2 matrixing capabilities and speaker configurations?



You have your choice. You can set them to a Direct pass-through where they aren't processed, or you can set them to go through the complete processing just as could be done with any digital audio signal or with normal stereo analog audio. When you set them to be processed, they are re-digitized in the D2, processed, and then converted back to analog for output.


The default setting for the 6-channel analog inputs is that they are processed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13460323
> 
> 
> I can't find that in the menu "native" of the bluray player



I don't believe there are any Blu-Ray players currently shipping which will automatically change video output between 1080p and 480i depending upon whether you are playing a Blu-Ray disc or a standard DVD.


You will have to do it manually in the player each time you change disc type if you want to get the benefits of letting the D2 do the de-interlacing and scaling for your standard DVDs.


Be sure to check your video calibration both ways just in case the player does something different between 1080p and 480i. (You can easily set separate input levels in the D2 by assigning more than one overlayed input to that device -- e.g., DVD1 vs. DVD2 -- and then putting the setting changes in the Video Source Adjust menu under the "7" key for each of them.) Thus switching disc types would involve changing to the correct output resolution in the player and selecting the correct input in the D2.

--Bob


----------



## TiVolution




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *art4mad* /forum/post/13460295
> 
> 
> No, I have one available but if I use it I will be maxed out... and I see an Apple TV in my future someday.



Unfortunately, the AppleTV will not work with the D2 or AVM50 via HDMI. So, no use to save the HDMI input for that until Apple fixes the problem. Apparently, the issue is on Apple's side so Anthem cannot fix it and it is not clear if Apple will do anything about it. Fortunately, you won't be missing anything since component/optical work fine for the A/V output capability of the AppleTV. That is how most people use it with the Anthem.


By the way, I really like my AppleTV ... great way to look at digital photos and listen to music with album art. I don't use the movie rentals/purchases feature too much, but when I have it has worked fine (not the highest video quality, but acceptable and it is really convenient.)


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *art4mad* /forum/post/13460295
> 
> 
> No, I have one available but if I use it I will be maxed out... and I see an Apple TV in my future someday.
> 
> 
> Sadly, the Denon will not output SACD multichanel over HDMI... only over the analogs.
> 
> 
> Maybe I need a new standard DVD/DVD-A/SACD player. How's the Oppo?



I sold a denon 3930ci and am now using an Oppo 980h. I couldn't be happier. I've noticed no drop off in audio or video. I have reduced my cables out of the denon from 8 (hdmi, coax and 6 analog) to one hdmi.

Movies look and sound great; sacd & dvd-a sound as good. Plus I had enough money to order the ARC-1 without having to dip into savings. The Oppo and D2 work very well together.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just a follow up: The "rumble" processing noise introduced by ARC in one poster's D2 here (PM discussion) has indeed been fixed by the latest ARC software and D2 firmware.


Confirming that took a bit longer than it should have because the ARC update ran afoul of the "wrong serial #" installation problem that happened in some cases when a software update (not the initial install) was tried after the serial # stuff had already been established. That too now appears to be fixed.


Yay!


Maybe they can ship mine now....


--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13371533
> 
> 
> I had the 1.30a firmware upgrade downloaded to my D2 today by my installer. We ran new sweeps and I still have the background noise in my D2. You notice it when the volume is turned up high in quiet scenes during movies or TV shows.(I use analog direct for music so the noise is not there). When you take the EQ(ARC) out of the input the noise disappears. I'm disappointed it didn't solve the problem. Ohh well back to the drawing board.



The A/V installer came over today, installed ARC 1.1 and did new sweeps and loaded them and background noise has completely disappeared from the D2. Yippee! The ARC sounds great in my system and I am thrilled. The ARC engineers & Piero of Anthem solved the problem. They stuck with it till they solved it. I am very impressed.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13461761
> 
> 
> The A/V installer came over today, installed ARC 1.1 and did new sweeps and loaded them and background noise has completely disappeared from the D2. Yippee! The ARC sounds great in my system and I am thrilled. The ARC engineers & Piero of Anthem solved the problem. They stuck with it till they solved it. I am very impressed.



Excellent! This will benefit ALL of us who (eventually








) get the ARC.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *art4mad* /forum/post/13460295
> 
> 
> No, I have one available but if I use it I will be maxed out... and I see an Apple TV in my future someday.
> 
> 
> Sadly, the Denon will not output SACD multichanel over HDMI... only over the analogs.
> 
> 
> Maybe I need a new standard DVD/DVD-A/SACD player. How's the Oppo?



As someone else posted, Apple TV is broken over HDMI and no word on whether it will ever be fixed.


I love my Oppo 970. I may get the 980 and use the 970 in a spare bedroom.


If you have HDTV boxes using up HDMI inputs, that may be another thing to change. ATSC (US) HDTV will never have multichannel PCM or anything that would require HDMI for audio, and the video will never be better than 1080i - so there is minimal chance of loss using good quality component and coax/optical connections.


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13462054
> 
> 
> I love my Oppo 970. I may get the 980 and use the 970 in a spare bedroom.



I just ordered the 980 based on the positive feedback I've read here. Actually, I want to feed all my SD movies at 480i/60 into the D2 to see what the Gennum is capable of. Does anyone have any advice on D2 video settings when using the 980? I've read Nick's earlier post on the best 980 internal settings over HDMI.


My projector is the HD-1. Here's hoping that once Anthem is finished with ARC-1 that they resolve the cadence recovery problem when a 480i/60 source is output at 1080p/24 from the D2 (as noted in Bob's post #11560 at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post13207695 )


----------



## bhrvatin

I spoke with both Anthem and Oppo tech support today. Anthem said they have heard of the HDMI hi-res multichannel problem between the D2 and the 980H and that Oppo has a firmware update to resolve the issue.


When I spoke with Oppo, although they confirmed the error is in the 980H and that they had seen issues with DVD-A, they had not verified the problem with 3.0, 4.0 and 5.0 channel SACDs and asked me which discs I tried so that they could have their firmware engineers test with them. There is no firmware update currently available to resolve the D2/980H issue and it sounded like an update was not going to be ready in the immediate future.


Bart


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13460455
> 
> 
> I don't believe there are any Blu-Ray players currently shipping which will automatically change video output between 1080p and 480i depending upon whether you are playing a Blu-Ray disc or a standard DVD.
> 
> 
> You will have to do it manually in the player each time you change disc type if you want to get the benefits of letting the D2 do the de-interlacing and scaling for your standard DVDs.
> 
> 
> Be sure to check your video calibration both ways just in case the player does something different between 1080p and 480i. (You can easily set separate input levels in the D2 by assigning more than one overlayed input to that device -- e.g., DVD1 vs. DVD2 -- and then putting the setting changes in the Video Source Adjust menu under the "7" key for each of them.) Thus switching disc types would involve changing to the correct output resolution in the player and selecting the correct input in the D2.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I am waiting for delivery of my D2 (been a month). There is a choice to run the ouput unchanged rather than everything 1080p. Can there be varying upscale choices for one input into the D2 from the same source and have it set to upscale everything to 1080p ?


I had the Sony BluRAy player playing a 480i disc direct to a Sony Bravia TV52 and there were horizontal lines every time there was movement. I guess this was due to bad upscaler in the Sony. I am disappointed in the quality now of the Sony Bdps500 Sony Blu Ray now.


I wanted a bluray player that could do both old dvd's and bluray. Can you recommend or do I have to have a separate dvd player for older dvd's ?


----------



## AbMagFab

Well darn... I wish the D2 had 8-channel input support (primarily over HDMI, but also analog). That's really the only sticking point for me - I'd rather not spend the money on this and not have it be a little-bit future proof (or at least future resistant).


I hope they come out with a D2.5 soon... Maybe add HDMI 1.3a support as well...


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I've been hesitating about buying a D2 for the last 3 months now expecting for something newer but as good to come out on the market.

But I don't see anything worth it for the moment, or is it so?


Here is why I am hesitating. Please feel free to argue or contradict me.


- The unit is already almost 4 years old

- It won't have HDMI 1.3 (but then again, LPCM can be a workaround for HD audio formats, right?)

- Is the Gennum video processor still up to the competition with newer video processors?

- Is the new Room correction add-on up to the competition today?


Thanks


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/13465841
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I've been hesitating about buying a D2 for the last 3 months now expecting for something newer but as good to come out on the market.
> 
> But I don't see anything worth it for the moment, or is it so?
> 
> 
> Here is why I am hesitating. Please feel free to argue or contradict me.
> 
> 
> - The unit is already almost 4 years old
> 
> - It won't have HDMI 1.3 (but then again, LPCM can be a workaround for HD audio formats, right?)
> 
> - Is the Gennum video processor still up to the competition with newer video processors?
> 
> - Is the new Room correction add-on up to the competition today?
> 
> 
> Thanks



It doesn't support 8-channel LPCM over HDMI, only 6-channel. See the last few posts on this, but this is the primary issue for me.


The RoomEQ is state-of-the-art.


The VP is very high quality, and better than in most CE devices today.


----------



## xtrips

Only 6 channels supported?

Well than this is it.

No need to look further.

The only compromise I would have made against HDMI 1.3 would have been 8 channels through LPCM.

Guess I'll have to wait.


----------



## uppacreek

xtrips, how many source discs do you have that contain 8 discrete channels of audio? I know there are a couple out now on BR, but compared to the vast majority with 6 channel, essentially none. And HDMI 1.3...just need a player that will internally decode TrueHD and DTS-MA out via multichannel PCM. Ok, selection is limited right now, but with the Denon 3800 out and others on the way, this issue will soon be sorted for HDMI 1.2 only prepros like the D2.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13466587
> 
> 
> xtrips, how many source discs do you have that contain 8 discrete channels of audio? I know there are a couple out now on BR, but compared to the vast majority with 6 channel, essentially none. And HDMI 1.3...just need a player that will internally decode TrueHD and DTS-MA out via multichannel PCM. Ok, selection is limited right now, but with the Denon 3800 out and others on the way, this issue will soon be sorted for HDMI 1.2 only prepros like the D2.



Hello,

You want to tell me that you would buy a brand new processor today, renouncing up front to the possibility of using an 8 channel signal?

We are only at the beginning of the HD audio revolution. To give it all up already would seem like a miscalculation.

I already own a TagMcLaren full featured processor that has faithfully served me for the last 7 years.

I don't (almost) expect less from my next processor.


Thank you for exposing your POV anyway.


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/13466683
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> You want to tell me that you would buy a brand new processor today, renouncing up front to the possibility of using an 8 channel signal?
> 
> We are only at the beginning of the HD audio revolution. To give it all up already would seem like a miscalculation.
> 
> I already own a TagMcLaren full featured processor that has faithfully served me for the last 7 years.
> 
> I don't (almost) expect less from my next processor.
> 
> 
> Thank you for exposing your POV anyway.



Hehe...ok then you're already done, you don't need the D2. I bot the D2 about a month ago because I needed (and can afford) a decent preamp/processor, so yes, I would definitely buy a processor today that isn't capable of receiving 8 discrete channels.


I simply don't see that movie studios are going to go whole hog on 7.1 when so many of us are running 5.1 systems. I could be wrong on this, but there are least a few years (if not more) ahead of us to enjoy 5.1. When (and if) the time comes that movie content is being released as TRUE 7.1, then I'll consider to upgrade my processor. In the interim, if I want 7.1 (which I don't right now) I'll utilize the processing abilities in the D2 to provide that for me from 5.1 channels.


Dunno 'bout you, but no miscalculation on that as far as I can see










One thing I didn't add...I replaced a Denon 3806 in my system with the D2. The difference in audio and video processing ability, not to mention sound quality, has been revolutionary, not evolutionary.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13466868
> 
> 
> One thing I didn't add...I replaced a Denon 3806 in my system with the D2. The difference in audio and video processing ability, not to mention sound quality, has been revolutionary, not evolutionary.




ALL us D2 Owners Support your opinion and I came from Lexicon to Anthem.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13466868
> 
> 
> Hehe...ok then you're already done, you don't need the D2. I bot the D2 about a month ago because I needed (and can afford) a decent preamp/processor, so yes, I would definitely buy a processor today that isn't capable of receiving 8 discrete channels.
> 
> 
> I simply don't see that movie studios are going to go whole hog on 7.1 when so many of us are running 5.1 systems. I could be wrong on this, but there are least a few years (if not more) ahead of us to enjoy 5.1. When (and if) the time comes that movie content is being released as TRUE 7.1, then I'll consider to upgrade my processor. In the interim, if I want 7.1 (which I don't right now) I'll utilize the processing abilities in the D2 to provide that for me from 5.1 channels.
> 
> 
> Dunno 'bout you, but no miscalculation on that as far as I can see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I didn't add...I replaced a Denon 3806 in my system with the D2. The difference in audio and video processing ability, not to mention sound quality, has been revolutionary, not evolutionary.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13466900
> 
> 
> ALL us D2 Owners Support your opinion and I came from Lexicon to Anthem.



Well, First, that's not so smart on my part to express myself in such a way in a "D2 owners forum", to say the least. I mean you are all already there...

Second, and I quote

"I simply don't see that movie studios are going to go whole hog on 7.1"

I understand this is based on an asumption, but It is true you have a point here, I tend to think like you.

Although I own a pretty high-end 8 channel speakers set, I always thought it was a gimmick on the marketing part that got me fall for it.


So, to conclude, hmmm, you got me confused now










At the moment my only source for HD audio is my HTPC through an Auzentech Prelude 7.1 soundcard, using 6 X analog output into my Tag's 6 channels bypass input.

But as soon as Auzentech releases their HDMI add-on card, I might become more impatient to upgrade my pre-pro......

Well well well....


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/13467032
> 
> 
> At the moment my only source for HD audio is my HTPC through an Auzentech Prelude 7.1 soundcard, using 6 X analog output into my Tag's 6 channels bypass input.
> 
> But as soon as Auzentech releases their HDMI add-on card, I might become more impatient to upgrade my pre-pro......
> 
> Well well well....



I see your point. In my pc room, quite separate from my HT, I have the Prelude 7.1 in my desktop pc, also running analog out to my AVR, the 3806, so only 5.1. One area that could be going 7.1 in a big way is games. If that happens, I'll keep the 3806 (which can support 8 channel) for my pc room.


Out of curiosity, when is the Prelude HDMI add-on card expected to arrive? Will it have the ability to decode TrueHD/DTS-MA to MPCM plus also bitstream out?


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13459346
> 
> 
> Gotcha - that makes sense... For what it's worth, I went to BB and picked up a random 20 or 30 BD's, and none of them had more than 5.1 tracks on them.



There are threads in the Blu-Ray section that outline the audio/video specs of all released and announced movies.


I believe that at present there are like 2 or 3 Blu-Ray movies with 7.1 listed. It wouldn't surprise me in the least if the 6th and 7th channels were simply derived from the 5.1 just like the D2 would do hahaa.


We are still very much in a marketing promotions era of HDM. An example would be the big deal BD and then HD DVD made of their ability to handle HDMI 1.3 and DEEP COLOR only now to find out that no existing players could handle 10bit color let alone more. I think you will continue to see a few token titles released with 7.1 to keep yup the buzz, but little more than that.


Has anyone seen a review of a 7.1 encoded disk compared to the 5.1 version on the same disk? Would be interesting read if we could find the same disk reviewed by several independent (read unbiased) sources on several different setups to get a real sense for any potential benefit.


Of course in each case we would need to filter out the placebo effect where the simple existence of the 2 extra channels may subconsciously bias the reviews. A double or ABX test would be ideal, but I haven't seen any.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13460455
> 
> 
> I don't believe there are any Blu-Ray players currently shipping which will automatically change video output between 1080p and 480i depending upon whether you are playing a Blu-Ray disc or a standard DVD.
> 
> 
> You will have to do it manually in the player each time you change disc type if you want to get the benefits of letting the D2 do the de-interlacing and scaling for your standard DVDs.
> 
> 
> Be sure to check your video calibration both ways just in case the player does something different between 1080p and 480i. (You can easily set separate input levels in the D2 by assigning more than one overlayed input to that device -- e.g., DVD1 vs. DVD2 -- and then putting the setting changes in the Video Source Adjust menu under the "7" key for each of them.) Thus switching disc types would involve changing to the correct output resolution in the player and selecting the correct input in the D2.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, there are blu-ray players that will automatically switch video output format based on the disc. It's called "source direct" mode on the Pioneer BDP-HD1 (and I believe the Sony S1 first gen player also supports it, so I'd be surprised if the Sony S500 doesn't). The source direct mode will output the native format of the disc. If I put a SD-DVD into my player, I get 480i out. Blu-ray discs output 1080p24 (or 60 for some discs) without changing any settings.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13460455
> 
> 
> I don't believe there are any Blu-Ray players currently shipping which will automatically change video output between 1080p and 480i depending upon whether you are playing a Blu-Ray disc or a standard DVD.
> 
> 
> You will have to do it manually in the player each time you change disc type if you want to get the benefits of letting the D2 do the de-interlacing and scaling for your standard DVDs.
> 
> 
> Be sure to check your video calibration both ways just in case the player does something different between 1080p and 480i. (You can easily set separate input levels in the D2 by assigning more than one overlayed input to that device -- e.g., DVD1 vs. DVD2 -- and then putting the setting changes in the Video Source Adjust menu under the "7" key for each of them.) Thus switching disc types would involve changing to the correct output resolution in the player and selecting the correct input in the D2.
> 
> --Bob



I seem to remember reading that the pioneer Elite $$$ may do this, but not 100% sure. In any case I wouldn't recommend buying any of the 1st gen players. I have the HD-A1 and a PS3, but have the Oppo 970HD for SD-DVD 480i output, CD, SACD & DVD-A. This arrangement works great for me. Not the least of which was the OPPO's sub $200 price for awesome performance and peace of mind hahaa.


Even if your player does do 480i out, not all 480i outs are created equal and the OPPO was very highly rated for this.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13467568
> 
> 
> Yes, there are blu-ray players that will automatically switch video output format based on the disc. It's called "source direct" mode on the Pioneer BDP-HD1 (and I believe the Sony S1 first gen player also supports it, so I'd be surprised if the Sony S500 doesn't). The source direct mode will output the native format of the disc. If I put a SD-DVD into my player, I get 480i out. Blu-ray discs output 1080p24 (or 60 for some discs) without changing any settings.



An update for misterdoggy,


I just looked up the manual for the Sony BDP-S500. Please refer to page 46 of your manual. Like the Pioneer Elite, it also supports "source direct" mode. This is the mode you should use when you receive your Anthem. Since you're currently connected directly to the TV, you may want to experiment to see which is better.


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13467625
> 
> 
> I seem to remember reading that the pioneer Elite $$$ may do this, but not 100% sure. In any case I wouldn't recommend buying any of the 1st gen players. I have the HD-A1 and a PS3, but have the Oppo 970HD for SD-DVD 480i output, CD, SACD & DVD-A. This arrangement works great for me. Not the least of which was the OPPO's sub $200 price for awesome performance and peace of mind hahaa.
> 
> 
> Even if your player does do 480i out, not all 480i outs are created equal and the OPPO was very highly rated for this.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Richard,

I don't think the feature is limited to first gen players. I think all the Pioneer's and Sony's support "source direct" (even current gen players).

Ryan


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/13467032
> 
> 
> Well, First, that's not so smart on my part to express myself in such a way in a "D2 owners forum", to say the least. I mean you are all already there...
> 
> Second, and I quote
> 
> "I simply don't see that movie studios are going to go whole hog on 7.1"
> 
> I understand this is based on an asumption, but It is true you have a point here, I tend to think like you.
> 
> Although I own a pretty high-end 8 channel speakers set, I always thought it was a gimmick on the marketing part that got me fall for it.
> 
> 
> So, to conclude, hmmm, you got me confused now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the moment my only source for HD audio is my HTPC through an Auzentech Prelude 7.1 soundcard, using 6 X analog output into my Tag's 6 channels bypass input.
> 
> But as soon as Auzentech releases their HDMI add-on card, I might become more impatient to upgrade my pre-pro......
> 
> Well well well....



Well you need to be comfortable with your purchase in any case. If your not then it's a big chunck of change to be uncertain about. I follow a strict no regrets policy. This is part of the reason I have a D2. Because I was very confident that I wouldn't be in a position to wich I had spent X to get Y instead.


Here is another take on the 5.1 vs. 7.1 discussion. As others have stated here, commercial cinemas are not currently configured for 7.1. SO do you think the producers / original sound mixing engineers will be mixing / recording for 5.1 or 7.1 for the foreseeable future?


My feeling is that everything, for a long time yet will still be filmed, mic'd and recorder based on a commercial cinema experience. Any remixing for 7.1 will most likely come from the 5.1 source in any case. So with that in mind, as I mentioned in my previous post, if their discreet 7.1 comes from 5.1 whats to say that the D2s 7.1 output from the sources 5.1 won't at the pessimistic end of the spectrum least be in the ballpark of quality and almost indistinguishable at the positive end.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13467727
> 
> 
> Richard,
> 
> I don't think the feature is limited to first gen players. I think all the Pioneer's and Sony's support "source direct" (even current gen players).
> 
> Ryan



Do you mean they all "Don't" or do? I think you mean don't.


My comment was meant to infer that even though I think that the Pioneer Elite DOES support auto detect and pass through (Again I could be wrong) I still would not buy it because it's expensive and Profile 1.0. That's the reason for the gen one reference not anything to do with auto detect or anything.


Cheers,


Richard.


----------



## RROSEN

On a happy side note, my dealer called today and said that Anthem expects my ARC-1 to be ready by the end of business today.


On a Murphy's law note, the rep I had been dealing with who promised to have someone (Anyone) pick it up as soon as it was ready if off sick today and the guy I spoke with couldn't wrap his brain around anything beyond their regular pickup tomorrow or Thursday hahaa.


In any case it's good news for ARC-1's happily shipping soon to expectant new ARC daddies.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. Sadly I can't remember how to post the bouncies


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13467975
> 
> 
> Do you mean they all "Don't" or do? I think you mean don't.
> 
> 
> My comment was meant to infer that even though I think that the Pioneer Elite DOES support auto detect and pass through (Again I could be wrong) I still would not buy it because it's expensive and Profile 1.0. That's the reason for the gen one reference not anything to do with auto detect or anything.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard.



My Sony BDP-S2000ES in "Source Direct" mode will switch between 480i SD and 1080p/24 BD as the discs are inserted. That is verified by the D2 status info.


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13467975
> 
> 
> Do you mean they all "Don't" or do? I think you mean don't.
> 
> 
> My comment was meant to infer that even though I think that the Pioneer Elite DOES support auto detect and pass through (Again I could be wrong) I still would not buy it because it's expensive and Profile 1.0. That's the reason for the gen one reference not anything to do with auto detect or anything.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard.



Hi Richard,

I mean all of the Pioneer and Sony players "do" support "source direct" mode in which they automatically output the native format of the disc without any scaling or de-interlacing.


Sorry for the confusion, I wasn't suggesting anyone buy a first gen player. I was trying to help misterdoggy correctly configure his Sony S500 (a current generation player) so that he doesn't have to manually switch between 480i and 1080p. I was also trying to correct Bob's statement that no currently shipping player can automatically switch video output format to match the disc.


Ryan


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks to all who corrected my misunderstanding about the availability of "Source Direct" on some Blu-Ray players (Pioneer & Sony) to allow automatic switching to 480i output when playing standard DVDs!

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13468073
> 
> 
> On a happy side note, my dealer called today and said that Anthem expects my ARC-1 to be ready by the end of business today.
> 
> 
> On a Murphy's law note, the rep I had been dealing with who promised to have someone (Anyone) pick it up as soon as it was ready if off sick today and the guy I spoke with couldn't wrap his brain around anything beyond their regular pickup tomorrow or Thursday hahaa.
> 
> 
> In any case it's good news for ARC-1's happily shipping soon to expectant new ARC daddies.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> PS. Sadly I can't remember how to post the bouncies



You just post it as TEXT not as an attachment.


----------



## misterdoggy

Well Just got the News My D2 is shipping to me today. I will have it later in the week.


Can't wait.










I have always had video and audio separated and this is the first move to hdmi for everything


Throw away all the expensive cables Well not throw them away but sell them off


No more optical or digital cables.


I hope that the D2 will accept different signals from the same input and upscale them to 1080i


as using the Bluray machine for all dvds and sending native to the D2 will have 480i and 1080p coming from the same source


So hopefully it will pass thru the 1080p and upscale the 480i when it recognizes this


Is this possible


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13468123
> 
> 
> Hi Richard,
> 
> I mean all of the Pioneer and Sony players "do" support "source direct" mode in which they automatically output the native format of the disc without any scaling or de-interlacing.
> 
> 
> Sorry for the confusion, I wasn't suggesting anyone buy a first gen player. I was trying to help misterdoggy correctly configure his Sony S500 (a current generation player) so that he doesn't have to manually switch between 480i and 1080p. I was also trying to correct Bob's statement that no currently shipping player can automatically switch video output format to match the disc.
> 
> 
> Ryan



Yeah thanks for the clarification on the players. I thought only the Pio could do native. I think we are now in alignment lol.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13468959
> 
> 
> Well Just got the News My D2 is shipping to me today. I will have it later in the week.
> 
> 
> Can't wait.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have always had video and audio separated and this is the first move to hdmi for everything
> 
> 
> Throw away all the expensive cables Well not throw them away but sell them off
> 
> 
> No more optical or digital cables.
> 
> *I hope that the D2 will accept different signals from the same input and upscale them to 1080i*
> 
> 
> as using the Bluray machine for all dvds and sending native to the D2 will have 480i and 1080p coming from the same source
> 
> 
> So hopefully it will pass thru the 1080p and upscale the 480i when it recognizes this
> 
> 
> Is this possible



It most certainly will do that for you. You will have 4 available output configurations that you can map to any input. Once the output configuration is assigned then anything going into that source name (IE: SAT or DVD) with be processed to meet the outputs configuration.


By using the multi-Source designations for the same input (IE. SAT1, SAT2) you can even have multiple outputs for each input










Here is one bouncy to get you started.










I am sure that the powers that be will grant you more once you receive your D2.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. Thanks to Drhankz I can now post the ARC-1 bouncies


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/13465841
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I've been hesitating about buying a D2 for the last 3 months now expecting for something newer but as good to come out on the market.
> 
> But I don't see anything worth it for the moment, or is it so?
> 
> 
> Here is why I am hesitating. Please feel free to argue or contradict me.
> 
> 
> - The unit is already almost 4 years old



I think it started shipping in late 2005 or early 2006.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/13465841
> 
> 
> - It won't have HDMI 1.3 (but then again, LPCM can be a workaround for HD audio formats, right?)



The only thing in HDMI 1.3 I can see as being a must-have SOMEDAY is Deep Color. But none of your sources that exist on Earth today - with the possible exception of games(?) or maybe content played through an HTPC(?) will ever support Deep Color. Which aspect of HDMI is a must-have for you?


Intellectually, I am frustrated by the 6 channel input limitation too. But in actual use (glorious, detailed, uber clear, immersive use







) it doesn't matter, and content owners are wary of supporting something with a small installed base. 5.1 is a no-brainer - cheap HTIB systems at Wal-Mart support 5.1.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/13465841
> 
> 
> - Is the Gennum video processor still up to the competition with newer video processors?



This assumes that the video processor chip is the only or largest differentiator. It isn't. It is the quality of the algorithms and implementation added after the fact. The JVC RS-1 pj has the same Gennum chip - but you cannot get more than a fraction of the video processing as in the D2. Finally, look at Mac OSX and Windows - both run on the same Intel chip - but what a difference in performance!


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/13465841
> 
> 
> - Is the new Room correction add-on up to the competition today?
> 
> Thanks



Well, since the ARC-1 has just started shipping in new units, the amount of people on earth who have one is probably in the low dozens. No one has done a shootout yet with things like Audyssey Pro. I think there have been some very favorable comments from those who have heard both - and say that the added $400-500 cost is a killer bargain.


However, room correction systems are coming on strong. In the professional audio world, there is a battle shaping up between Audyssey and some interesting newcomers (e.g. KRK Systems). I was all set to invest in the Audyssey-derived ARC system by IK Multimedia for my project recording studio, but I'm now waiting to look at some new stuff first. There's going to be a lot of activity in the next few years in room correction.)


It is easy to pick apart any piece of gear for it's limitations - all gear has them. But I don't think there is *any piece of gear at any price that gives the audio and video quality and super integration of the D2*.


At the same time, anyone looking at the D2 is looking at a piece of equipment that is in a mature phase of it's life - so it's not feeling as future-proof as if you bought it in 2006. The problem for you and some others sitting on the fence is that *there is no true alternative yet*. Other products have more modern specs, but don't look or sound anywhere in the same league.


If you want *specs*, don't consider a D2. You will be unhappy.


If you want the *best combination of video and audio in one package*, the D2 is it.


For the record, I believe that Anthem will follow up at some point with a successor to the D2. At that point, content may be out that demands more. I'd buy the D3 then!)


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13469245
> 
> 
> It most certainly will do that for you. You will have 4 available output configurations that you can map to any input. Once the output configuration is assigned then anything going into that source name (IE: SAT or DVD) with be processed to meet the outputs configuration.
> 
> 
> By using the multi-Source designations for the same input (IE. SAT1, SAT2) you can even have multiple outputs for each input
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one bouncy to get you started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure that the powers that be will grant you more once you receive your D2.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> PS. Thanks to Drhankz I can now post the ARC-1 bouncies



Thanks for the Warm Welcome on Board


Here's a bouncy back at ya


----------



## izzihd

What can you tell us about the impact of ARC on your system?


Thanks for any and all details.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2 started shipping in spring of 2006. So it is just about at its 2 year anniversary. The audio portion of the D2 is a D1 which is older. The video and HDMI portion of the D2 were revved in early 2007 due to a part change in the video processor chip (nothing really significant from a user perspective -- mainly lower power dissipation).


All of the really important changes in the D2 since its introduction have been in software.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13469993
> 
> 
> The D2 started shipping in spring of 2006. So it is just about at its 2 year anniversary. The audio portion of the D2 is a D1 which is older. The video and HDMI portion of the D2 were revved in early 2007 due to a part change in the video processor chip (nothing really significant from a user perspective -- mainly lower power dissipation).
> 
> 
> All of the really important changes in the D2 since its introduction have been in software.
> 
> --Bob



So is the 6-channel LPCM HDMI limitation something that could be corrected in software, or is it a hardware limitation?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13470159
> 
> 
> So is the 6-channel LPCM HDMI limitation something that could be corrected in software, or is it a hardware limitation?



It's a hardware limitation.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *izzihd* /forum/post/13469472
> 
> 
> What can you tell us about the impact of ARC on your system?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any and all details.



I would say it effects the subwoofer in a very positive way.

It equalized the sub to my room and it rocks when it needs to rock but it doesn't rattle the room. It's a much cleaner sounding. In fact the whole surround sound system seems cleaner and more integrated with the room. The D2 steering is more seamless. You can really turn up the sound if you want to without any really negative effects.(You don't realize how loud it is till you try to talk to someone) I think it did a great job of equalizing the center channel in my system. Dialog is cleaner and easier to understand. After the A/V installer did the 5 sweeps and the ARC software averaged them, according to the read outs the two speakers that were most effected by the equalization were the subwoofer and the center channel. And that is what I heard. Plus like I said before the whole system seems more seamless. Hope that helps.


----------



## RROSEN

That is what I am hoping to get out of the ARC-1.


Did you copy your setting down before and then check them after? What changes most? Speaker level? Cross overs? What else?


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13471294
> 
> 
> I would say it effects the subwoofer in a very positive way.
> 
> It equalized the sub to my room and it rocks when it needs to rock but it doesn't rattle the room. It's a much cleaner sounding. In fact the whole surround sound system seems cleaner and more integrated with the room. The D2 steering is more seamless. You can really turn up the sound if you want to without any really negative effects.(You don't realize how loud it is till you try to talk to someone) I think it did a great job of equalizing the center channel in my system. Dialog is cleaner and easier to understand. After the A/V installer did the 5 sweeps and the ARC software averaged them, according to the read outs the two speakers that were most effected by the equalization were the subwoofer and the center channel. And that is what I heard. Plus like I said before the whole system seems more seamless. Hope that helps.



i agree with everything Bigmoviefan says, in addition, I listen to most of my cd's in Anthem Logic-Music and the ARC really delivers here. I noticed a dramatic sense of imaging improvement to the point that I have actually gotten up from my chair a few times and put my ear to my centre channel as I was positive it was active...it was not!

SACD/DVD-A are also markedly better.

ARC is a real home run - IMHO.

/\\/\\


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13472643
> 
> 
> i agree with everything Bigmoviefan says, in addition, I listen to most of my cd's in Anthem Logic-Music and the ARC really delivers here. I noticed a dramatic sense of imaging improvement to the point that I have actually gotten up from my chair a few times and put my ear to my centre channel as I was positive it was active...it was not!
> 
> SACD/DVD-A are also markedly better.
> 
> ARC is a real home run - IMHO.
> 
> /\\/\\



I am doing that now, and I don't have my ARC-1 yet. My system really sounds good now. I can't imagine how much more improvement the ARC-1 will be able to add. If it does add more, it's going to be really scary.


----------



## izzihd

Thanks for all the comments about the sounds - and improvements - from ARC. Keep them coming. All I have is you guys to keep me sane until my ARC shows up.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13472484
> 
> 
> That is what I am hoping to get out of the ARC-1.
> 
> 
> Did you copy your setting down before and then check them after? What changes most? Speaker level? Cross overs? What else?
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



RRosen, No I did not. Sorry. The A/V Installer did say the most dramatic difference before and after ARC-1 equalization was done with the Subwoofer and center channel speaker. He showed me the before and after curve(on his laptop) for the Subwoofer and it really changed it quite a bit. Of course the ARC effected all the speakers to some degree.


----------



## metallicafreak

I may be just imagining things, but I think my D2 sounds better (who would think such a thing was possible) since I upgraded the FW from 1.2 to 1.31.

Anyone else feel this way?

FREAK!


----------



## AbMagFab

So I know I'm asking in an Anthem thread, but I'd like to get that kind of biased response.


If I don't care about video processing of SD material (only that everything be output over HDMI), and I don't care about native decoding of HD audio, what would push me towards a D2 versus an Integra 9.8?


- The ARC looks to be very similar/the same as Audyssey Pro (ARC is listed on the Audyssey site as an Audyssey Pro implementation).


- The DAC's in both look to be of similar quality


What else would contribute to sound differences between them?


My setup is very Paradigm heavy (P5, Sig S6/C5/ADP3/S2).


----------



## jkmw

Interesting. I thought mine sounded better when i upgraded FW from original 1.06 to 1.2something. But then, I think the whole system sounds better in the warmer months of the year than it does in the colder months....so i'm no judge.


----------



## gblack




AbMagFab said:


> - The ARC looks to be very similar/the same as Audyssey Pro (ARC is listed on the Audyssey site as an Audyssey Pro implementation).[
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> It's a different product. ARC from Audyssey is Advanced Room Correction, ARC from Anthem is Anthem Room Correction. Anthem's ARC was built in-house by Anthem and is proprietary.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/13476811
> 
> 
> It's a different product. ARC from Audyssey is Advanced Room Correction, ARC from Anthem is Anthem Room Correction. Anthem's ARC was built in-house by Anthem and is proprietary.



Gotcha. It still looks to be pretty similar, and I'd be surprised if there was a dramatic difference between the two? It was critical that the D2 have something of this caliber in the device, but I imagine the results of both would be on-par with each other?


----------



## BruiserG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13476829
> 
> 
> Gotcha. It still looks to be pretty similar, and I'd be surprised if there was a dramatic difference between the two? It was critical that the D2 have something of this caliber in the device, but I imagine the results of both would be on-par with each other?



I think it would be a little bit of an apples to oranges comparison, since they can't be compared on the same processor. From what I understand, the ARC-1 requires a great deal more processing horsepower (which is why it isn't available on the AVM 50). So, presumably it has the capacity for a much more thorough, in depth analysis and correction. Whether or not that results in any noticable improvement over what the Audissey could provide is anyone's guess. Early reviews sound encouraging, however.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13472643
> 
> 
> i agree with everything Bigmoviefan says, in addition, I listen to most of my cd's in Anthem Logic-Music and the ARC really delivers here. I noticed a dramatic sense of imaging improvement to the point that I have actually gotten up from my chair a few times and put my ear to my centre channel as I was positive it was active...it was not!
> 
> SACD/DVD-A are also markedly better.
> 
> ARC is a real home run - IMHO.
> 
> /\\/\\



How loud are the test sweeps for when the ARC-1 runs? Similar to speaker level test tones? How long does each of the suggested 5 mic positions sweeps take?


I ask because the stars seem to be aligning for me to get my ARC-1 tomorrow at around 4pm from my dealer. Apparently what was supposed to be ready at Anthem/Paradigm EOD yesterday will only be ready EOD today (I blame all you others who want this baby also hahaa) which given the dealers pickup there tomorrow really makes no difference to my receiving it in any case.


I ask the question given that I will need to run the full set up FW and software updates (custom setting tool, FW 1.31 etc) then run ARC-1 and given my Loft location if it is too loud (or bass'y) or lasts too long I may have to wait until Friday to run it










I am so freaking pumped to get this up and running. Tightening the sound field and especially maximizing the efficiency and minimizing the boominess of the bass should grant me a much more enjoyable (increased volume level) in my unit. While at the same time maintaining or maybe even reducing my impact on the units around me. Apparently this raving band of HT hating heathens feel they have rights to their own piece and quiet... HA, Scoff, Mock.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Jim E.

Quote:

Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* 
Gotcha. It still looks to be pretty similar, and I'd be surprised if there was a dramatic difference between the two? It was critical that the D2 have something of this caliber in the device, but I imagine the results of both would be on-par with each other?
These are preliminary results. You should also note that the crossover settings for EQ OFF were the same one's which were calculated by ARC. In other words, the EQ OFF curve was benefiting from the calulated crossover results of ARC.

 

pcRTA ARC.pdf 29.89453125k . file


----------



## rajman

I have an AVM 50 and am planning on getting either the JVC RS1 or RS2. I have seen on the JVC posts and reviews that the colors are oversaturated. I realize that the AVM 50 does not have a CMS but was wondering how effective the color and saturation control in the unit would be in concert with the controls on the projector to tone down the colors to something acceptable. Thanks for your opinions.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13474822
> 
> 
> RRosen, No I did not. Sorry. The A/V Installer did say the most dramatic difference before and after ARC-1 equalization was done with the Subwoofer and center channel speaker. He showed me the before and after curve(on his laptop) for the Subwoofer and it really changed it quite a bit. Of course the ARC effected all the speakers to some degree.



So were these graphs from the ARC-1 software? IE. Are you able to save the before and after graphs?


If so then I will do that and provide them to someone here who can post them for others to have a look at. We can all laugh at how bad my rooms accoustics are at present. Imagine a big cube 22.5'(W) x 15'(D) x 13'(H).


Looking from the couch against one of the 22.5' walls (centered in a 15' area on the left hand side with the Kit on the right for the other 7-8") on my left is a full 15' x`13' wall of glass (to maximize reflections hahaa).


To my right is the kitchen area (about 7-8" x 15' and completely open to the HT/Living room) with just a table between the HT and the cabinets etc. Also above the cabinets is a rather large 4.5' x 8' opening at the ceiling to the bedroom and directly to the right of the seating position on the same wall is a floor to ceiling 3.5' opening to the main hallway.


Front and back walls are flat "rigged" drywall. Ceiling is rough cement with metal girders and round exposed ductwork running from right to left venting out the big glass window wall and finally hardwood floors to finish everything off.


At a minimum I need to get a nice thick area rug for between the front soundstage and the seating position and drapes, gauze, blinds or some combination for the nice big glass wall (Nice for looks, bad for HT).


Since I will obviously need to rerun the ARC-1 once I get the carpet and the window coverings, it will e interesting to see what changes they make as well. About the only thing I think I have going for me is that nothing really divides by anything else heehee.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## netroamer

I noticed that the file dates changed on the Anthem support site from 3/14 to 3/25 for 1.31.exe. The version number did not change. Seems odd!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13478575
> 
> 
> I noticed that the file dates changed on the Anthem support site from 3/14 to 3/25 for 1.31.exe. The version number did not change. Seems odd!



I suspect they copied the firmware file in there afresh when they updated the installer and ARC Windows PC software to fix the "serial number" problem.


-----------------------------------


By the way, my dealer just got an email from his distributor today with info from Paradigm yesterday, that ARC upgrades are not shipping just yet.


So there's still some confusion as to whether the trucks are rolling.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

HOT OFF THE PRESS!


Some changes are starting to happen on the Anthem "public" pages for the D2:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/Products/D2/D2.html 


ETA: Looks like the old software and manual are still the only ones on the public site at the moment.


--Bob


----------



## Milt99

^^^^ Both of those links are to the same PDF file.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13478575
> 
> 
> I noticed that the file dates changed on the Anthem support site from 3/14 to 3/25 for 1.31.exe. The version number did not change. Seems odd!



There is a difference in the files.


The D2 v1.31.exe file from today is 6,520,832 bytes

The D2 v1.31.exe file from before is 6,512,640 bytes


The D2 v1.31.exe file from the ARC kit is 6,520,832 bytes


I didn't download the ARC kit previously to have one to compare.


There's no other indication to tell what might be different.


----------



## Tim Winders

There was some discussion a while back about the ARC-1 and whether or not one should use subwoofer EQ is available. This paragraph from the Anthem ARC-1 operating guide confirms what Bob has said all along.



> Quote:
> If your Subwoofer also has Room Correction (EQ') capabilities:
> 
> Since rooms and Room Correction systems vary, the definitive answer
> 
> to which EQ' system to use will only come with trying both Room
> 
> Correction systems in your setup. Start with ARCTM. If the calculated line
> 
> and target line closely resemble each other, then all should be well.
> 
> However, if the calculated line is still quite wavy throughout, run the
> 
> subwoofer's Room Correction and then re-do ARCTM. The sub's EQ' will
> 
> then allow ARCTM resources to focus strictly on the midrange.
> 
> 
> NOTE: If the subwoofer's Room Correction is going to be used, it MUST
> 
> be running when ARCTM starts playing its sweep tones, otherwise ARCTM
> 
> will not be measuring the subwoofers real performance.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13479325
> 
> 
> There is a difference in the files.
> 
> 
> The D2 v1.31.exe file from today is 6,520,832 bytes
> 
> The D2 v1.31.exe file from before is 6,512,640 bytes
> 
> 
> The D2 v1.31.exe file from the ARC kit is 6,520,832 bytes
> 
> 
> I didn't download the ARC kit previously to have one to compare.
> 
> 
> There's no other indication to tell what might be different.



The changes covered the noise issue Bigmoviefan was encountering and the "failed to get version number" error.


Tim, no need to download and re-load the latest software. When you get your ARC you can just use the cd to write over everything.


Jim


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13479668
> 
> 
> The changes covered the noise issue Bigmoviefan was encountering and the "failed to get version number" error.
> 
> 
> Tim, no need to download and re-load the latest software. When you get your ARC you can just use the cd to write over everything.
> 
> 
> Jim



Thanks, Jim. Curious that the version wasn't called 1.31a or something to distinguish it from 1.31. No biggie. I've been very happy with 1.31 and am excited to get my ARC-1!


----------



## panners

Hi Im new to this site, I want to upgrade my D2 and was wondering if it can be done with a Windows Vista laptop?


Thanks


Shane


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13479153
> 
> 
> ^^^^ Both of those links are to the same PDF file.



Close but not identical. One is to the D2 with ARC data sheet (covering the ARC portion). The other is to the ARC upgrade data sheet for D2 and D1 owners. The differences appear to be cosmetic.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/13480084
> 
> 
> Hi Im new to this site, I want to upgrade my D2 and was wondering if it can be done with a Windows Vista laptop?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Shane



you should have no problems using a vista laptop. When I eMailed Nick at Anthem and asked if it really made a difference (IE. Did he recommend I use my Vista Laptop or XP Desktop he said)


"We have done a lot more testing on the XP side, but if your laptop is more convenient then I suggest you use that". To me that is basically saying he has little or no concerns about Vista. Just make as sure as possible that you have the latest Vista serial port adapters would be my only advice.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. RE ARC-1 shipping. All I can tell you is that yesterday Anthem said it would be ready for pickup and today they confirmed it would be ready for pickup by end of day today so the dealer plans to get it tomorrow.


If for some reason tomorrow doesn't happen then clearly there is a breakdown between my dealer and what Anthem is telling them. I doubt this however. Fingers crossed anyway hahaa.


All that said, I don't know what this means for shipments as upposed to pickups, but you would think they would be similar.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13477970
> 
> 
> How loud are the test sweeps for when the ARC-1 runs? Similar to speaker level test tones? How long does each of the suggested 5 mic positions sweeps take?
> 
> 
> I ask because the stars seem to be aligning for me to get my ARC-1 tomorrow at around 4pm from my dealer. Apparently what was supposed to be ready at Anthem/Paradigm EOD yesterday will only be ready EOD today (I blame all you others who want this baby also hahaa) which given the dealers pickup there tomorrow really makes no difference to my receiving it in any case.
> 
> 
> I ask the question given that I will need to run the full set up FW and software updates (custom setting tool, FW 1.31 etc) then run ARC-1 and given my Loft location if it is too loud (or bass'y) or lasts too long I may have to wait until Friday to run it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am so freaking pumped to get this up and running. Tightening the sound field and especially maximizing the efficiency and minimizing the boominess of the bass should grant me a much more enjoyable (increased volume level) in my unit. While at the same time maintaining or maybe even reducing my impact on the units around me. Apparently this raving band of HT hating heathens feel they have rights to their own piece and quiet... HA, Scoff, Mock.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Hey Richard,


The whole ARC process should take about 1/2 hour assuming you are going to measure movie only initially in 5 positions.


Each test has 4 sweeps and they are not horribly loud. The loudest are L/R. I can't imagine it being particularly problematic - you just need quiet although there is "continuous noise ie. fan" compensation built in. I turned everything off including my furnace!










I have done the entire procedure easily 25 times or more. Test tones are a "whupping" noise as opposed to the legendary Audyssey chirping/knocking noise.


Again, this is my experience in a room that is rectangular, enclosed 13'w by 24' long. I am driving my Ref Studio 100's with Bryston 2channel and the rest of my Studio surrounds (4) and centre with Rotel 5 channel. My 2 subs are Martin Logan Depths.


/\\/\\


----------



## RROSEN

OK, well that will learn me to prematurely release bouncies into the wild.


Anthem just called my dealer and said, oops, your rep was mistaken that it would be ready, it in fact will not be ready until early next week at the earliest and could take even longer







.


Seems it still needs some tweaking of the software. I guess the retrofitting to the existing D1/2's is a little more complex than to include in with a brand new D2.


As always, in a big picture way, I am glad that Anthem is making sure it's good to go before releasing these. Another week or so while they fine tune things is nothing compared to the long term enjoyment I expect to get out of it.


It may be best for me not to give any more expected ETA's until I actually have it hand







.


Sorry for all the changing ETA's.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Roomraider

Does anyone here know what the AVM-50 remote code is to operate Sony BDP S300 Blu ray player??????


----------



## yatchaks

Today, I sold and shipped by Velodyne DD15 and it will be a month or two before I receive my upgrade.


I set the AVM50 to no sub, but see there is still an option to adjust the crossover, and am not sure what I should do with the it.


I'm not concerned about music as I have another set of amps and another pre for two channel listening.


I'm not sure if it matters, but the frequency response for the towers is..

34Hz - 25KHz (+/- 1.5 db)

29Hz - 40KHz (+/-3db)

(F10 23Hz)


Mark


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13481479
> 
> 
> OK, well that will learn me to prematurely release bouncies into the wild.
> 
> 
> Anthem just called my dealer and said, oops, your rep was mistaken that it would be ready, it in fact will not be ready until early next week at the earliest and could take even longer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Seems it still needs some tweaking of the software. I guess the retrofitting to the existing D1/2's is a little more complex than to include in with a brand new D2.
> 
> 
> As always, in a big picture way, I am glad that Anthem is making sure it's good to go before releasing these. Another week or so while they fine tune things is nothing compared to the long term enjoyment I expect to get out of it.
> 
> 
> It may be best for me not to give any more expected ETA's until I actually have it hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Sorry for all the changing ETA's.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard




I was told mine wouldn't come till the end of next week as well.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajman* /forum/post/13478047
> 
> 
> I have an AVM 50 and am planning on getting either the JVC RS1 or RS2. I have seen on the JVC posts and reviews that the colors are oversaturated. I realize that the AVM 50 does not have a CMS but was wondering how effective the color and saturation control in the unit would be in concert with the controls on the projector to tone down the colors to something acceptable. Thanks for your opinions.



I have a D2 hooked up to a RS-1 and the whole oversaturated colors thing in my opinion is blown way out of proportion.


----------



## panners

Thanks Richard,


I was also wondering, when I do the upgrade do I also back up all my settings

using the Live Video Settings Editor? Or how do I back up my settings?


----------



## Bob Anderson

Hi all


Well, finally made the jump to BD with an order for a Denon 3800BD. I am hoping it will arrive in the next week or so and I believe some of you either already have a unit or are getting one soon as they expand deliveries.


I am wondeirng what codec's you will be setting up in the D2 to handle in order to get the best audio from the Denon player?


I just received my D2 back from Anthem, (the work order seems to suggest they 1) Repo U47 and 2) upgraded the unit to 1.30 F/W. No sure what Repo means but unit is sounding and running well.


I've ordered ARC but am waiting like the rest of you, (wish they had provided it when the rig came back as I ordered it when it went in but, alas, no short cuts to getting)










Back to the Denon, I am hoping to just run the HDMI cable for video and audio but is there any reason to also add separate audio cables when I install for certain CD's for any of the codec's?


Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks in advance.


Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/13485011
> 
> 
> I am wondeirng what codec's you will be setting up in the D2 to handle in order to get the best audio from the Denon player?
> 
> Bob



NONE!


The 3800 will decode the Audio into LPCM over HDMI to the D2.


----------



## misterdoggy

Hi


First impressions that everyone works right out of the box. Being experienced with Lexicon mc12c, mcintosh mx135, Parasound C1, Rotel 1098 and others I was able to plug everything in and pretty much works.


BIG QUESTION: When selecting audio modes for Sat TV which is recommended by you experienced hands. Right out of the box I hear the voices coming from all around rather than from the center speaker or Screen as I have heard from ALL other Processors before.


I will get in depth experience, but a leg up here in the beginning would be appreciated as my wife will not like this tonight.


Sound is clear precise and picture is better than the upscaling out of the DVDO before.


I would like to have a general movie SAT TV sound mode to choose for SAT TV where the sound is coming from the screen.


I will get to room correction as soon as I have saved everything so its up and running smoothly with the Universal Remote for the family before they start stoning me


----------



## Bob Anderson

Thanks drhankz


Now I need to figure out what I am going to do with my Arcan DV137! Been a great DVD/CD player on the D2 and looking forward to a side by side test, (hoping my ears are sensitive enough to tell if there is any difference)!


Cheers


Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/13485676
> 
> 
> Thanks drhankz
> 
> 
> Now I need to figure out what I am going to do with my Arcan DV137! Been a great DVD/CD player on the D2 and looking forward to a side by side test, (hoping my ears are sensitive enough to tell if there is any difference)!
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



I think I have heard [but not sure] that Audio

playback is excellent on the 3800.


With luck you won't hear the difference


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13482704
> 
> 
> I was told mine wouldn't come till the end of next week as well.



Yeah looks like this is it. My guess is that everything is ready technically and they just need some time to get the latest firmware disks and documentation updated.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/13482758
> 
> 
> Thanks Richard,
> 
> 
> I was also wondering, when I do the upgrade do I also back up all my settings
> 
> using the Live Video Settings Editor? Or how do I back up my settings?



This is the upgrade step by step that was posted a little while ago and seems to be what the folks here suggest. For step 10 just assume 129k = whichever FW version you are upgrading too.


So these instructions would get us to FW 1.31, but do not include any specific ARC-1 steps. Does anyone have the suggested 1.31 and then ARC-1 running steps from the Anthem instructions?


For me I would also need to install the Live View (which I think is a PC install which I would do first).


1.) Shut off the D2 using the rear power switch.


2.) Removed all HDMI inputs and output.


3.) Plugged-in the RS-232 connector.


4.) Powered up unit from rear.


5.) Used Live View to turn on unit, get current settings and save.


6.) Used remote to save current settings via setup menu.


7.) Restored Factory Defaults.


8.) Shut off unit via Front Panel.


9.) Cycled on/off rear power switch.


10.) Uploaded 129.k


11.) Turned on unit via Front Panel and after 30 sec. shut down.


12.) Turned on unit via Front Panel and loaded Factory Defaults, then loaded my saved settings.


13.) Opened Live View and loaded my saved settings and uploaded to D2.


14.) Turned of unit via Front Panel and shut down rear power.


15.) Removed Rs-232 connector and plugged-in HDMI Inputs and output.


16.) Turned on Rear Switch and powered up D2.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13485645
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> First impressions that everyone works right out of the box. Being experienced with Lexicon mc12c, mcintosh mx135, Parasound C1, Rotel 1098 and others I was able to plug everything in and pretty much works.
> 
> 
> BIG QUESTION: When selecting audio modes for Sat TV which is recommended by you experienced hands. Right out of the box I hear the voices coming from all around rather than from the center speaker or Screen as I have heard from ALL other Processors before.
> 
> 
> I will get in depth experience, but a leg up here in the beginning would be appreciated as my wife will not like this tonight.
> 
> 
> Sound is clear precise and picture is better than the upscaling out of the DVDO before.
> 
> 
> I would like to have a general movie SAT TV sound mode to choose for SAT TV where the sound is coming from the screen.
> 
> 
> I will get to room correction as soon as I have saved everything so its up and running smoothly with the Universal Remote for the family before they start stoning me



Well I can't answer your question, but I can suggest you post all your current audio, speaker input/output settings for SAT1.


SAT Box:

How is it connected? EX: HDMI

What are the SAT box setting for both audio out and and audio processing. For example my cable box lets me chose the Audio Out format: for me Digital and then Digital Out = HDMI and I can also choose Bitstream, PCM or Auto etc.



D2:

So Setup > Speaker Config

Also Setup > Source Setup > SAT1

Also Setup > Mode Presets > SAT1

And just to be safe Setup > ADC / Audio Output


You will get asked for some if not all of this in any case so might as well get ahead of the curve.


Sorry I can't answer directly. If this forum were a Support line, think of me as the guy who answers the phone and then asks if your unit is plugged in and if the cable is connected. Once past that I would pass you to Bob or one of the others hahaa










Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13485645
> 
> 
> BIG QUESTION: When selecting audio modes for Sat TV which is recommended by you experienced hands. Right out of the box I hear the voices coming from all around rather than from the center speaker or Screen as I have heard from ALL other Processors before.



The first order of business is to make sure you have your audio set up correctly. In particular, make sure you have balanced the volume levels for your speakers. Do this with the test tones in the Anthem's Setup / Level Calibration menu. Use a Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter from Radio Shack to measure this rather than doing it by ear. They are inexpensive and it's what everyone uses.


Setting up a subwoofer properly is a little more complicated. There are some posts in the link collection in the first post of this thread that may be helpful.


Having done that, the Audio Mode you use for watching TV is a matter of personal preference. There is no "right" answer. And keep in mind that some of the Audio Modes have parameters that you can adjust using the Remote to tune them to your preference. These are remembered on a per source device basis. The factory default settings are good, so don't fiddle with these until you gain some experience with how your setup sounds using the defaults.


Personally, I use Anthem Logic - Cinema for normal (i.e, stereo) TV broadcasts, and I use PLIIx with THX turned ON for movies broadcast in DD5.1. In the Setup / Source Setup menu you can establish the default you like for each source and for each style of audio coming in from that source. For example I have PLIIx set (no THX) for 5.1 input from my cable TV box because I like to decide on a movie by movie basis whether I also want to turn on the THX post processing. This means if I encounter a live HDTV program that's sending DD5.1 I don't have to remember to turn THX off.


One special case is if you are watching an old black and white movie. Back then, movie sound tracks had deliberate treble boost since the speakers were behind the movie screen and the sound would be muffled otherwise. Some broadcasts will already have corrected for this, but others will be broadcasting the original sound track, which will sound too bright and hissy. To make the original sound track sound best in those cases, use Anthem Logic - Mono Academy mode. This will remove the "Motion Picture Academy" EQ bias from the audio. (This also applies to old movies on DVD).


Finally, keep in mind that the Audio Modes available to you at any time depend on (1) whether or not you have rear speakers configured, (2) the type of audio input at the moment, and (3) whether or not you have THX post-processing turned on. So for example, if you happen to have THX turned on, that AL-Mono Academy mode *WILL NOT* appear as a choice when you cycle through the modes.

--Bob


----------



## misterdoggy

Thanks Bob and Richard,


I found that in the Anthem Logic Cinema the voices were coming from all sides, and after switching to PLIIx the voice came from the front more, so I using that for Satellites.


One of the satellites audio and video come from hdmi and the other Satellite video from hdmi and I had to use dig coax as hdmi was not working with audio. I am not sure maybe handshake problems.


Outstanding sound and image quality and beats the McIntosh with a stick. Also better than the Lexicon mc12b (although it didn't have hdmi)


I couldn't figure out how to calibrate the subwoofer as no test sounds came out when I was using manual selecting the sub.


I will live with it for a day or 2 before running the ARC software with the Mic's that have come. Very Cool looking case with the mic in it and I am anxious to run it, but will wait, because I might need to make some adjustments with configuration, and don't want to do it twice. I can report here how it works if you would like me to.


I need to look in to the ADC as I may have passed over that one. No manual came with the unit ?? I had to download one. Normal??


One question: If I am using a source that has DTS or LPCM (Blu-Ray) or DD5.1 will this automatically be used or will one of the preselected audio modes over-ride the input ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If you are not getting test tones from your subwoofer, then something is wrong in your setup.

--Bob


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13487892
> 
> 
> If you are not getting test tones from your subwoofer, then something is wrong in your setup.
> 
> --Bob



Well the Sub is working as I hear it working with Sat Tv stations in PLIIx ??


But when I run the test no sounds come out of the sub.


does it matter if the sub out coax is in the left or right output of Sub 1?


----------



## misterdoggy

Just got off the phone with Anthem and he says it could be something to do with the bass management


Because I have music and cinema same as might affect the test tone ??


I will try it out


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Also, Anthem Logic - Cinema is not an aggressive surround mode. If you are hearing lots of dialog from your surround speakers when watching TV then that also means something is not right.


Are you sure the sound is coming from your surrounds? If your front speakers are not in phase (one or two of them wired reverse polarity compared to the other) then you will get a "diffuse" sound field that might sound like too much surround sound.


For example, with the factory default parameters the PLIIx mode is more aggressive than AL-Cinema -- more of the stereo audio input will end up being directed to the surround speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

I went out and purchased a laptop (Vista) mainly just for downloads and upgrading. I download via e-mail v. 1.31 and I'm instructed to use the DESKTOP because the update won't work with Vista. The desktop has XP and I'll have to use it for the upgrade.

You would think that Anthem could upgrade to Vista since every laptop on the market now has it. What gives????


----------



## Milt99

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Wake me when the ARC sets sail


----------



## Bob Pariseau

WOO HOO!!


Anthem D2 V1.3x Operating Manual is now up on the public D2 web site:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...ual/D2_OM.html 


The software download page still shows V1.11 at the moment.


ETA: V1.3x updates for the AVM-40 and AVM-50 Operating Manuals are also now on the public web page in their area:

http://www.anthemAV.com/NewSitev2.0/...OwnersMan.html 

--Bob


----------



## izzihd

Can you explain why you use PLII instead of one of the modes "intended" for 5.1 discrete sources?


Thanks!


----------



## Milt99

SNORK, HUMPH, WHA? New manual posted?









Thanks for waking me Bob!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *izzihd* /forum/post/13488537
> 
> 
> Can you explain why you use PLII instead of one of the modes "intended" for 5.1 discrete sources?
> 
> Thanks!



Assuming you mean DPLIIx?

It is meant for 5.1 discrete sources and does an excellent job in both music and movies. imo.


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13488094
> 
> 
> Also, Anthem Logic - Cinema is not an aggressive surround mode. If you are hearing lots of dialog from your surround speakers when watching TV then that also means something is not right.
> 
> 
> Are you sure the sound is coming from your surrounds? If your front speakers are not in phase (one or two of them wired reverse polarity compared to the other) then you will get a "diffuse" sound field that might sound like too much surround sound.
> 
> 
> For example, with the factory default parameters the PLIIx mode is more aggressive than AL-Cinema -- more of the stereo audio input will end up being directed to the surround speakers.
> 
> --Bob



5 haven't had time to run the test signal, but I was too quick on the installation and didn't see the Sub 1 or Sub 2 and connected to the left or right Sub which I think will solve the problem.


Also I am using all large speakers and thought it might sound better with Sub Super to see if that adds more on the Bass.


All the Polarity's are correct and I use XLR interconnects on the other side.


I need to give it a relisten now that the speaker calibration is done to evaluate it properly.


Since I just took delivery of my D2 this week direct from the factory with ARC I probably am up to date software wise would you not think.


How do I check software what version I am running ?


----------



## shah993

I assume you mean you have set your speakers to large.I think it is usualy set to small.I dont know about the sub.


----------



## wookie

They now have version 1.31 at their public web site. They state that it works with Windows 98 Me nt xp and 2000. No mention of vista. I used to use an old laptop with a real serial port under windows 98 and didn't have any problems until version 1.29d and I could only load it with a desktop with windows xp. Maybe I'll be able to use my old laptop which is easier that carting a desk top from my office.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/13488136
> 
> 
> I went out and purchased a laptop (Vista) mainly just for downloads and upgrading. I download via e-mail v. 1.31 and I'm instructed to use the DESKTOP because the update won't work with Vista. The desktop has XP and I'll have to use it for the upgrade.
> 
> You would think that Anthem could upgrade to Vista since every laptop on the market now has it. What gives????



I remember hearing/reading recently that the most success Anthem had with the ARC software was when using it with Vista. That the FW loader does not work with Vista makes little sense. You don't mention who told you not to use Vista. Did you try to see if the .exe file at least opened in Vista? Or, better yet, did you try to access the D2 with the LiveVideo Editor opened in Vista. I was within minutes of pulling the trigger on a new Sony Vaio with Vista Ultimate until I read this. I sent Nick an email asking for a confirmation and he replied, faster then he has ever replied, that Vista works for them, and perhaps any failure is hardware dependent.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wookie* /forum/post/13489289
> 
> 
> They now have version 1.31 at their public web site.



Wu hoo! Maybe now Bob will upgrade!










EDT: The D1 v1.31.exe from the public website matches the version posted to the beta site in the last couple days.


----------



## wookie

I wonder the same thing. I have a new laptop with Vista but no real serial port. The processor is a lot faster than my old laptop which has a real serial port. I haven't recieved my ARC yet but I am wondering whether it will make any diffenece using the old lap top for both loading the firmware and processing the equalizer information and then loading it to the D2 or should I invest in a usb to serial port adaptor and use the faster computer with Vista to do both? I had read that post about using Vista however on their official website they didn't mention vista for downloading the firmware 1.31


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wookie* /forum/post/13489289
> 
> 
> They now have version 1.31 at their public web site. They state that it works with Windows 98 Me nt xp and 2000. No mention of vista. I used to use an old laptop with a real serial port under windows 98 and didn't have any problems until version 1.29d and I could only load it with a desktop with windows xp. Maybe I'll be able to use my old laptop which is easier that carting a desk top from my office.



QUITE CORRECT!


The D2 V1.31 software install kit is now up on the public Anthem Statement D2 web site:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


The kit includes the following components:


Anthem video timings.pdf Nov 21, 2006, 4:41PM

AnthemAV_RS-232v6.xls Jan 24, 2008, 11:54PM

D2 V1.31.exe Mar 25, 2008, 10:25 PM (6,520,832 bytes)

LiveVideoSettingsEditor v1.20.exe Sep 25, 2007 10:16AM (552,960 bytes)

Read Me - Settings Editor.txt Mar 25, 2008 4:08PM

Read Me - Upgrades.txt Mar 25, 2008 4:36PM

RS-232 Updates.txt Jan 25, 2008 12:03AM


There is NO "Setup Editor" in this install kit yet. Nor is the Windows PC software for ARC present in the install kit.


Those of you who have been working in the password protected download site, please confirm that the V1.31 installer in this public kit is actually the latest version and report back here. Thanks! ETA: OK, I see Tim Winders has already confirmed this. Thanks, Tim!

--Bob


[edit: Corrected "Settings Editor" to "Setup Editor" which is actually the name of the missing program.]


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13489387
> 
> 
> Wu hoo! Maybe now Bob will upgrade!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Bob will wait for his ARC.


But I just did a FW upgrade to my Blu-Ray player and NOW it

is Profile 2.0. Where can I find movies with 2.0 Content to check

it out?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13489503
> 
> 
> Bob will wait for his ARC.
> 
> 
> But I just did a FW upgrade to my Blu-Ray player and NOW it
> 
> is Profile 2.0. Where can I find movies with 2.0 Content to check
> 
> it out?



That's your older Pioneer right? Man, are they STILL planning on shipping the 05FD without an ethernet port???

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13489537
> 
> 
> That's your older Pioneer right? Man, are they STILL planning on shipping the 05FD without an ethernet port???
> 
> --Bob



NO WAY JOSE - the older Pioneer can NEVER be upgraded to 2.0


----------



## Bob Pariseau

FYI for anyone who received a D2 with V1.30 pre-installed or who otherwise nabbed the PDF file for the V1.3x manual from that point in time: The D2 V1.3x Operating Manual now available for download from the Anthem D2 public site is newer (dated today) and is some 66K bytes longer.


So download the new one!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13489569
> 
> 
> NO WAY JOSE - the older Pioneer can NEVER be upgraded to 2.0



So SPILL THE BEANS! Which player?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13489600
> 
> 
> So SPILL THE BEANS! Which player?
> 
> --Bob



The only one CAPABLE of being Upgraded


----------



## Bob Pariseau

PS3?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13489635
> 
> 
> PS3?
> 
> --Bob



YES YES YES


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13489387
> 
> 
> Wu hoo! Maybe now Bob will upgrade!



I'm traveling this weekend, so the first chance I'll have to try this will be sometime next week.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For those here using the Anthem AVM-40 or AVM-50, the new V1.31 software install kit is up on the public web site for those as well:

http://www.anthemAV.com/NewSitev2.0/...areUpdate.html 


The installer for the AVM-50 is from Mar 25, 2008 10:24PM (6,668,288 bytes).


The other elements of the install kit for the AVM-50 are identical to those for the D2.


--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wookie* /forum/post/13489477
> 
> 
> I wonder the same thing. I have a new laptop with Vista but no real serial port. The processor is a lot faster than my old laptop which has a real serial port. I haven't recieved my ARC yet but I am wondering whether it will make any diffenece using the old lap top for both loading the firmware and processing the equalizer information and then loading it to the D2 or should I invest in a usb to serial port adaptor and use the faster computer with Vista to do both? I had read that post about using Vista however on their official website they didn't mention vista for downloading the firmware 1.31



I assume your new notebook has an ExpressCard 34 or 54 slot. I would feel more comfortable buying an ExpressCard to serial port adapter before the USB. It seems to be a cleaner setup and a more direct path.


----------



## rhrhodes

Hi All,


I apologize if this has already been addressed (it's a pretty long thread). I just picked up a harmony one remote. I'm currently using the DVD1,2,3 and 4 source inputs (Pioneer blu-ray, Toshiba HD-A3, and Mac-Mini). I'm wondering if there's discrete remote control codes for each of the DVD source inputs (or if I have to send the "DVD" code multiple times)?


Thanks,

Ryan


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13489777
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I apologize if this has already been addressed (it's a pretty long thread). I just picked up a harmony one remote. I'm currently using the DVD1,2,3 and 4 source inputs (Pioneer blu-ray, Toshiba HD-A3, and Mac-Mini). I'm wondering if there's discrete remote control codes for each of the DVD source inputs (or if I have to send the "DVD" code multiple times)?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ryan



See Appendix A of the manual. There's a 3 key sequence to switch directly to each input, including these overlayed inputs. Just use those in the Input definitions in your Harmony.

--Bob


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13489789
> 
> 
> See Appendix A of the manual. There's a 3 key sequence to switch directly to each input, including these overlayed inputs. Just use those in the Input definitions in your Harmony.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob! DOH. need to learn to RTFM !!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just to reiterate for any folks just now joining the discussion, the new V1.31 software for the D2 is intended for ALL users with ALL source device and display hardware configurations. It is required if you want to use the ARC (Room EQ) upgrade, but should also be installed by users who, for whatever reason, don't intend to use ARC right now.


For AVM-50 users, of course, ARC is not an issue. Install the V1.31 software for the AVM-50 at your earliest convenience.


There are a metric ton of bug fixes in this software compared to say, V1.11 or V1.06 -- and even compared to V1.20. Undoubtedly we'll find a few gotchas in this new software, but this really is a release intended for ALL owners and the feedback from beta testers posting here has been quite positive.

--Bob


----------



## misterdoggy

I have been looking at the ARC operating guide before doing the room correction and it has steps 1 thru 3 standard and then steps 4 thru 7 for advanced user mode only. Something to do with calculation not on the processors crossover menu. ??


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13489975
> 
> 
> I have been looking at the ARC operating guide before doing the room correction and it has steps 1 thru 3 standard and then steps 4 thru 7 for advanced user mode only. Something to do with calculation not on the processors crossover menu. ??



It means once you are using ARC, don't mess with the cross-over settings in the Setup / Speaker Configuration menu of the D2 itself. The cross-over settings are handled by ARC instead -- do any tweaks you want to do within the ARC software on the Windows PC. If you start futzing with these settings in the D2's menus you won't get the correct results.

--Bob


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13490006
> 
> 
> It means once you are using ARC, don't mess with the cross-over settings in the Setup / Speaker Configuration menu of the D2 itself. The cross-over settings are handled by ARC instead -- do any tweaks you want to do within the ARC software on the Windows PC. If you start futzing with these settings in the D2's menus you won't get the correct results.
> 
> --Bob



I think I'll just do the "standard" install steps 1-3....


I have a real long extension for usb and a serial/usd cable I used to use to download software on to my DVDO before, which worked with PC.


Looks pretty straight forward. You put the mic in 5 positions starting with the central listening position at listening height and off you go.


----------



## joealbracht

I'm getting ARC-1 which will require upgrading my D2 from 1.20 to 1.31 but neither I or my dealer have never upgraded D2 firmware before. I have 2 questions:

1) Using only the SAVE/LOAD SETTINGS available via the remote, does the D2 retain all of my setup and video settings?

2) Is there any need/value to run the Setup Editor and/or the Live Video Settings Editor on a Windows PC as part of the upgrade process?


TIA


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13489503
> 
> 
> Bob will wait for his ARC.
> 
> 
> But I just did a FW upgrade to my Blu-Ray player and NOW it
> 
> is Profile 2.0. Where can I find movies with 2.0 Content to check
> 
> it out?



Ah. You must be a PS3 owner and now have the 2.20 upgrade! I did mine earlier this week.


I don't think any BD Live content will be available until next month.


EDT: Posted this before I finished reading the rest of the thread. I love my PS3!


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joealbracht* /forum/post/13490227
> 
> 
> I'm getting ARC-1 which will require upgrading my D2 from 1.20 to 1.31 but neither I or my dealer have never upgraded D2 firmware before. I have 2 questions:
> 
> 1) Using only the SAVE/LOAD SETTINGS available via the remote, does the D2 retain all of my setup and video settings?
> 
> 2) Is there any need/value to run the Setup Editor and/or the Live Video Settings Editor on a Windows PC as part of the upgrade process?
> 
> 
> TIA



You'll need to use the Live Video Settings editor to save your current video settings to your PC. Then load them back after the upgrade. When you run the upgrade procedure, you are given the steps you need to do. Do them all, don't skip any steps. I've upgraded my unit from 1.20 to 1.21b, 1.21d, 1.29j, 1.30a, 1.31 and am about to do the newer 1.31 (even though Jim E. says I don't have to, I'm compulsive about this type of thing). I've never had a problem, but I always follow the steps EXACTLY.


for the record, I use a Keyspan USB-Serial port adapter with Windows XP.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13490236
> 
> 
> Ah. You must be a PS3 owner and now have the 2.20 upgrade! I did mine earlier this week.
> 
> 
> I don't think any BD Live content will be available until next month.
> 
> 
> EDT: Posted this before I finished reading the rest of the thread. I love my PS3!



I'm told *SAW IV* and *WAR* have it NOW

with more one the way in weeks.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13490295
> 
> 
> I'm told *SAW IV* and *WAR* have it NOW
> 
> with more one the way in weeks.



Like I said...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13490309
> 
> 
> Like I said...



You said there was NONE NOW


----------



## panners

I'm thinking of getting the Denon 3800 blu ray. When hooked up HDMI and set to PCM on the Denon, will I get the true and full sound of DTS-HD MA and 7.1. Or will it be 5.1? Also would the new Pioneer elite, be a better choice instead of the Denon?


----------



## RROSEN

OK, WAKE UP.


I think Anthem and my dealer need to work on their communication.


I have in my hands the ARC-1... YAY.





















































1st thing now is to install the Keyspan drivers for my USB -> Serial port.


Then Install Live View/Setting editor whatever its called.


Then Install the latest firmware


Then run ARC-1 ...


Should be done by breakfast hahaa










Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13490325
> 
> 
> You said there was NONE NOW



Yeah, I was trying to be funny with reguards to the titles you mentioned. Guess it didn't come across correctly.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13490402
> 
> 
> OK, WAKE UP.
> 
> 
> I think Anthem and my dealer need to work on their communication.
> 
> 
> I have in my hands the ARC-1... YAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1st thing now is to install the Keyspan drivers for my USB -> Serial port.
> 
> 
> Then Install Live View/Setting editor whatever its called.
> 
> 
> Then Install the latest firmware
> 
> 
> Then run ARC-1 ...
> 
> 
> Should be done by breakfast hahaa
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard




wow! Congrats. That is awesome! Do let us know how it turns out. I'm jealous!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13490455
> 
> 
> Yeah, I was trying to be funny with reguards to the titles you mentioned. Guess it didn't come across correctly.



I looked at my WAR disc - it is only 1.1.


The AVS person who said WAR was 2.0 was wrong.


I don't own SAW IV - so I'll check it out at the rental store.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

YEE HAH!!


ARC-1 Upgrades are shipping!


--Bob


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13489649
> 
> 
> YES YES YES



Hmm, do you have to initialize the update and if so from where? I thought it would automatically ask me, but when I started my PS3 today it did not.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Additional note: For folks upgrading to V1.31 from V1.06 or older -- or even from V1.11 or V1.20 -- expect that you will need to re-calibrate your video settings to get best possible video. This is particular important for folks currently using V1.06 or older or for folks using Component video output. A variety of bug fixes should give you much sweeter video, but you will need to re-check and adjust your video levels.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/13490395
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of getting the Denon 3800 blu ray. When hooked up HDMI and set to PCM on the Denon, will I get the true and full sound of DTS-HD MA and 7.1. Or will it be 5.1? Also would the new Pioneer elite, be a better choice instead of the Denon?



The D2 cannot accept 7.1 PCM...


Which leads to the question.. what does the 3800 do to 7.1 decodes into PCM over HDMI?


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13490582
> 
> 
> Hmm, do you have to initialize the update and if so from where? I thought it would automatically ask me, but when I started my PS3 today it did not.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



System Settings, Firmware Update (I believe that's the path)


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13490464
> 
> 
> wow! Congrats. That is awesome! Do let us know how it turns out. I'm jealous!



Hahaa I will post a play by play.


Just finished Downloading and installing the Keyspan Vista Drivers. Good thing they include that little card in the SW sleeve hahaa.


I also downloaded the SW/FW from the Anthem site to compare to what is on the disk Anthem included with the ARC-1.


Looks like the file versions are the same on the disk as online so I will go with what is on the CD included with the ARC-1.


FYI, In the box is Heavy duty Mic stand (Base and extender pole). Mic, Mic holder for top of Stand, 10' or so USB cable, same instruction PDF in print form as what is downloadable (also on the CD).


CD has a bunch of stuff including PDF's (ARC-1 and D2 manuals), and Apps (ARC-1, Live video setting editor, FW v.1.31 - 6,520,832 bytes exactly the same as downloaded). And a couple other apps and associated files and TXT's.


OK, fixing the step I missed initially (open fridge, Open Corona, Insert Lime, Enjoy) and then installing the Live Video Editor as Per instructions.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN

Live video setting editor successfully ran and settings saved.










Starting FW 1.31 update.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13490402
> 
> 
> OK, WAKE UP.
> 
> 
> I think Anthem and my dealer need to work on their communication.
> 
> 
> I have in my hands the ARC-1... YAY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1st thing now is to install the Keyspan drivers for my USB -> Serial port.
> 
> 
> Then Install Live View/Setting editor whatever its called.
> 
> 
> Then Install the latest firmware
> 
> 
> Then run ARC-1 ...
> 
> 
> Should be done by breakfast hahaa
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



You realize by posting this to all of us hungry D2 owners that you are committing to a FULL review of your result... right?


----------



## Bob Anderson

Just hooked up my brand new 3800BD and can't get a satisfactory 1080P through the D2!


The D2 is seeing the signal correctly as it does if I change the HDMI resolution on the 3800 to any of the other formats but at 1080P, I am getting snow and frequent horizontal flashes across the TV, (Sharp 46" D92).


Hooking the Denen directly to the TV shows none of this. I must have a setting incorrect on the D2 or perhaps, the Audioquest HDMI-1, (states it is a HDMI 1.3 cable), needs replacement.


So far, wife and I are not impressed and we have been waiting to go BD since we got the D2 last April. I have had an Arcam D137 running on this cable and it has better color and no snow!


Any advice would be appreciated.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13491153
> 
> 
> You realize by posting this to all of us hungry D2 owners that you are committing to a FULL review of your result... right?



No problem. If my "Say it with crayons" review quality will be of any use hahaa.


Just finished the FW 1.31 update. Took 2 tries. Didn't change anything in between. I did switch windows and back during the first attempt so maybe that is a no no.


Going to run ARC-1 now. Lets see if I can get through it without complaints from my neighbours. They really are an inconvenience. Except the blond in 315. She can stay.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/13491261
> 
> 
> Just hooked up my brand new 3800BD and can't get a satisfactory 1080P through the D2!
> 
> 
> The D2 is seeing the signal correctly as it does if I change the HDMI resolution on the 3800 to any of the other formats but at 1080P, I am getting snow and frequent horizontal flashes across the TV, (Sharp 46" D92).
> 
> 
> Hooking the Denen directly to the TV shows none of this. I must have a setting incorrect on the D2 or perhaps, the Audioquest HDMI-1, (states it is a HDMI 1.3 cable), needs replacement.
> 
> 
> So far, wife and I are not impressed and we have been waiting to go BD since we got the D2 last April. I have had an Arcam D137 running on this cable and it has better color and no snow!
> 
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated.



This sounds like a classic cabling problem. 1080p is much tougher on cables than 1080i. The cable needing replacement could either be between the 3800 and the Anthem or between the Anthem and the display.


But there are a couple things you should check first. Go to Setup / Source Setup for that input and make sure you have HDMI Repeater = NO set.


Then, while viewing that input, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) and verify that Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF is set.


Finally, try the wiggle test. Grab the HDMI cable about an inch from the plug, press it gently and straight in towards the socket and wiggle gently. Does the snow go away? If so you don't have a tight fit between the plug and socket and may need to support the cable near the socket. Even the weight of the cable could cause this. Check both ends of both HDMI cables.


I take it 1080p output from the D2 to your TV is working just fine according to the Anthem's internal test patterns? Select an input that has no video source and go to Video Source Adjust / Patterns to bring any of them up. Use the Back key to exit a pattern. If you can't even get the test patterns to show up properly on your TV then the problem is entirely on the output side of the D2 (independent of any source) and you need to revisit your Setup / Video Output settings.


What Anthem firmware version are you running in your D2?


Again, I think this is likely a cabling problem.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

Ok, all done. YES.


ARC-1 is really a piece of cake to run. The uploading of the changes to the D2 actually took the most time hahaa. Total time end to end about 30 min.


Based in the graphs it sure looks like it made a lot of changes. Man my original measurements looks like poop hahaa.


I took some screenshots of the results if anyone can post them as links let me know by PM and I will send them to you.


I am going to check the D2 menus and listed to some stuff and see what I can see (I mean hear what I can hear).


Cheers,


Richard


Note: OK, checked some speaker settings. It adjusted my cross overs down or even way down.

I have Paradigm Reference 100 v.3 F L/R and it lowered the crossover for those to 40hz (I had them at 60Hz).

It low the crossover on my Center Paradigm Reference CC470 v.3 from 80Hz to 50Hz.

It RAISED the crossover of my Para Ref ADP v.3's from 80Hz to 100Hz (Interesting that)

It Raised the Crossover on my Para Ref Seismic 12 Sub from 80Hz to 100Hz (that's also interesting. Never occurred to me that it might raise the Subs crossover, but I guess its in alignment with the surrounds).

No rears in my current Loft setup so for now I am back to good old 5.1. Since my back wall neighbour already complains I figure it's probably not a good idea to mount speakers in that wall hahaa.


Speaker levels were tweaked a bit, but I can't remember for sure what was changed other than the Sub going down 2 dB, Center is up a bit and the right surround going down while the left went up. (The surrounds is really strange since they are equidistance from the Main listening position and previously were identical).


Now to listen to some stuff. Won't get to do anything with any serious volume until tomorrow though.


----------



## tngiloy

Does the ARC-1 allow you to calibrate for different sources?

Are there different runs for music (cd, sacd, etc.) and for movies? Or does the ARC-1 just optimize all your speakers and you then choose what speaker configuration you want to use for each component?

Tom


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13490582
> 
> 
> Hmm, do you have to initialize the update and if so from where? I thought it would automatically ask me, but when I started my PS3 today it did not.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



It never asks you.


It needs to be INITIATED by the User.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13490236
> 
> 
> I don't think any BD Live content will be available until next month


*INFO from the SONY PRESS RELEASE:
*

To inaugurate the release of the PS3's BD-Live upgrade, Sony Pictures Home Entertainment has also announced the addition of exclusive BD-Live content to the upcoming Blu-ray releases of '*Walk Hard*: The Dewey Cox Story' and '*The 6th Day*.' Exact details on the additional BD-Live features have not yet been specified, but we'll keep you posted. (Note that these two titles are not the first BD-Live-enabled Blu-rays to be released, however, with Lionsgate's '*War*' and '*Saw IV*' having hit stores earlier this year with BD-Live features already on the discs.)


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13491956
> 
> 
> Does the ARC-1 allow you to calibrate for different sources?
> 
> Are there different runs for music (cd, sacd, etc.) and for movies? Or does the ARC-1 just optimize all your speakers and you then choose what speaker configuration you want to use for each component?
> 
> Tom



From what I can see you can run it for Movies or Music so I guess it corresponds to those two bass settings in the D2 setup.


Very preliminary observation is that everything is louder (More likely just clearer) than it was previously at a similar volume. Played a little music, but watching hockey so no critical listening so far hahaa.


If it helps, the play by play is nice and clear. I am able to watch it at lower volume than before to get the same clarity/inteligability.


I will fire up some DVD-A's and HD DVD (Eagles, Roy Orb etc) tomorrow.


Might be interesting to run the speaker level test to see how they measure now from the main position (Without making any adjustments. I know, I know).


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13492056
> 
> 
> It never asks you.
> 
> 
> It needs to be INITIATED by the User.



OK thanks. I asked because when I first started it up it was nice enough to go check for updates so I wasn't sure.


Guess I will load that tomorrow.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13492076
> 
> *INFO from the SONY PRESS RELEASE:
> *
> 
> To inaugurate the release of the PS3's BD-Live upgrade, Sony Pictures Home Entertainment has also announced the addition of exclusive BD-Live content to the upcoming Blu-ray releases of '*Walk Hard*: The Dewey Cox Story' and '*The 6th Day*.' Exact details on the additional BD-Live features have not yet been specified, but we'll keep you posted. (Note that these two titles are not the first BD-Live-enabled Blu-rays to be released, however, with Lionsgate's '*War*' and '*Saw IV*' having hit stores earlier this year with BD-Live features already on the discs.)



Isn't the 6th day due out April 8th? If they don't know what the BD Live features are yet... I guess its a surprise or maybe they have a bunch and depending on which ones work, those are what will be announced hahaa.

Sony is funny.


Of the four mentioned the 6th day was one I had been considering so maybe I will pick it up to check out BD Live in action. Was Walk Hard any good?


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## TREVLAN

Hello again,


I have a question about using the SPL meter and setting up my levels.

I know how to use the SPL meter , my main issue is this.


Should I use the AVM50 test tones and leave it at that, or use a dvd disc like.. Joe Cane with test tones on it and do each player, like my PS3 and DENON 3910.


Reason why I question this is I heard differant stories and, when I set up the levels with the AVM50 test tones, the PS3 seems to play "lower" then the DENON3910, and I poped in the Joe cane DVD just for "fun" and the levels were around the 50-60 db range, where as when I set the AVM50 the levels were 75db.


Did I do something wrong here??


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13492185
> 
> 
> Played a little music, but watching hockey so no critical listening so far hahaa.
> 
> 
> If it helps, the play by play is nice and clear. I am able to watch it at lower volume than before to get the same clarity/inteligability.
> 
> Richard



Holy Christ. The guy calibrates his system with state-of-the-art software and puts on.....

Eine Kleine Nacht Musik? WasserMusik? Brandenburg Numer Drei? Das Transformers? Der Matrix?

Nein, a frakkin' hockey game!



















































Tell us, was Don Cherry like right there in your living room?

Man that was too much.


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13491631
> 
> 
> This sounds like a classic cabling problem. 1080p is much tougher on cables than 1080i. The cable needing replacement could either be between the 3800 and the Anthem or between the Anthem and the display.
> 
> 
> But there are a couple things you should check first. Go to Setup / Source Setup for that input and make sure you have HDMI Repeater = NO set.
> 
> 
> Then, while viewing that input, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) and verify that Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF is set.
> 
> 
> Finally, try the wiggle test. Grab the HDMI cable about an inch from the plug, press it gently and straight in towards the socket and wiggle gently. Does the snow go away? If so you don't have a tight fit between the plug and socket and may need to support the cable near the socket. Even the weight of the cable could cause this. Check both ends of both HDMI cables.
> 
> 
> I take it 1080p output from the D2 to your TV is working just fine according to the Anthem's internal test patterns? Select an input that has no video source and go to Video Source Adjust / Patterns to bring any of them up. Use the Back key to exit a pattern. If you can't even get the test patterns to show up properly on your TV then the problem is entirely on the output side of the D2 (independent of any source) and you need to revisit your Setup / Video Output settings.
> 
> 
> What Anthem firmware version are you running in your D2?
> 
> 
> Again, I think this is likely a cabling problem.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob


Thanks for the quick response, HDMI Repeater is "Off" and Frame Lock is "Off". Firmware level is 1.30.


I am using the same Audioquest HDMI-1 CinemaQuest, 1.3 certified cable as I used on the DV137 but I am thinking the same as you that perhaps, this cable is not ready for prime time, (paid slightly under the sticker price of $270 for it). I have been pumping 1080P-60 from the D2 to the TV for quite some time and have not seen this before.


I will pick up Audioquest's HDMI-3 cable tomorrow and test it or if you have a better cable suggestion, I would certainly go that route.


Wife's saying that even the D2's upscaled HD-PVR cable box looks better so, feeling your right on the cable.


Will report back my findings with a different cable tomorrow.


Cheers


Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/13492362
> 
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> 
> I have a question about using the SPL meter and setting up my levels.
> 
> I know how to use the SPL meter , my main issue is this.
> 
> 
> Should I use the AVM50 test tones and leave it at that, or use a dvd disc like.. Joe Cane with test tones on it and do each player, like my PS3 and DENON 3910.
> 
> 
> Reason why I question this is I heard differant stories and, when I set up the levels with the AVM50 test tones, the PS3 seems to play "lower" then the DENON3910, and I poped in the Joe cane DVD just for "fun" and the levels were around the 50-60 db range, where as when I set the AVM50 the levels were 75db.
> 
> 
> Did I do something wrong here??



Use the test tones inside the Anthem to set the levels in the Anthem. They are very VERY accurate.


Inside each source, make sure you have disabled any sort of speaker configuration management or bass steering. If there isn't a single setting to do this, then lie to the SOURCE device's menus about your true speaker setup. Tell each source device's menus the following lies:


1) You have a full complement of speakers including a subwoofer.


2) That all your main speakers are "large".


3) That all your speakers are at the same distance from the listening position. Any distance will do so long as they are all the same.


4) That no speaker needs any boost or cut in its volume to balance with the other speakers.


5) That your subwoofer will do its own cross over management (or failing that, turn the cross over in the source device's settings to the highest frequency).


Also turn off any audio enhancement functions in the source devices (e.g., bass boost).


That should get your sources closer to each other. But be aware that each type of content you play will likely be recorded to a different level. That's no problem (it's what your volume control is FOR after all) so long as the speakers remain in balance. I.e., it is not the absolute SPL level that matters so much as the balance between speakers.


Also remember that any source you play will go through the Anthem processing before it comes out the speakers. That includes bass steering for example. So absolute volume levels from a calibration DVD may be a little different than from the Anthem test tones. Again, trust the Anthem test tones, but do make sure you aren't also having speaker configuration processing occur in any of your source devices.


[Note: If you are using stereo analog audio input from any devices then there is an input volume trim menu in the Anthem that can help balance these devices. Digital audio sources don't need this.]

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/13492406
> 
> 
> Hi Bob
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick response, HDMI Repeater is "Off" and Frame Lock is "Off". Firmware level is 1.30.
> 
> 
> I am using the same Audioquest HDMI-1 CinemaQuest, 1.3 certified cable as I used on the DV137 but I am thinking the same as you that perhaps, this cable is not ready for prime time, (paid slightly under the sticker price of $270 for it). I have been pumping 1080P-60 from the D2 to the TV for quite some time and have not seen this before.
> 
> 
> I will pick up Audioquest's HDMI-3 cable tomorrow and test it or if you have a better cable suggestion, I would certainly go that route.
> 
> 
> Wife's saying that even the D2's upscaled HD-PVR cable box looks better so, feeling your right on the cable.
> 
> 
> Will report back my findings with a different cable tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



The cable change will probably do it. While you've got the cable disconnected, also grab a flashlight and take a look at both plugs and both sockets for any signs of pin damage.


One other thing, make sure you have the correct Video Output configuration specified in the Setup / Source Setup menu for that input. And double check that you have Preferred = HDMI in the Video Output configuration you are using. It is unlikely these are the problem since lower resolutions from the player are working for you, but double-check them anyway.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/13492362
> 
> 
> I poped in the Joe cane DVD just for "fun" and the levels were around the 50-60 db range, where as when I set the AVM50 the levels were 75db.
> 
> 
> Did I do something wrong here??



Just so you understand, the absolute SPL levels you set using the Anthem's test tones should correspond to what you will hear when you play sources with the Anthem's main volume knob set to -10dB -- that is, whenever that source is playing "reference level" loudness passages in its audio track.


So what Anthem main volume setting did you use when you were playing the Joe cane DVD's tests?

--Bob


----------



## shah993




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13492372
> 
> 
> Holy Christ. The guy calibrates his system with state-of-the-art software and puts on.....
> 
> ENE Kleine Nacht Musik? WasserMusik? Brandenburg Numer Drei? Das Transformers? Der Matrix?
> 
> Nein, a frakkin' hockey game!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tell us, was Don Cherry like right there in your living room?
> 
> Man that was too much.



There isnt anything better than sitting in front of a 120" screen and (RDS in hi def) and Don Cherry with his loudmouth as well as clothes plus a cold Molson AND the Habs beating Ottawa 7 to 5.All of this in the US!!!







:


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13492372
> 
> 
> Holy Christ. The guy calibrates his system with state-of-the-art software and puts on.....
> 
> Eine Kleine Nacht Musik? WasserMusik? Brandenburg Numer Drei? Das Transformers? Der Matrix?
> 
> Nein, a frakkin' hockey game!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tell us, was Don Cherry like right there in your living room?
> 
> Man that was too much.



Hockey stops for no man... ARC-1 or no ARC-1 hahaa.


Tomorrow (Until I get security at my door) I will try out some scenes like:


HD DVD:

MI III Bridge Scene

T2: Anything with the truck and/or Motorcycle

T3: First big chase where crane mangles everything

KK: TRex Fight

The Island: Big Highway chase scene (train axles smashing cars ooooh)

Maybe some U-571

Eagles

Roy Orbison

Bach


BLU-RAY:

Some Black Hawk Down

Some Live Free or Die Hard

X-Men III

Ice Age

Cars

Elton John 60th


Various DVD-A's and SACD's


Obviously not parts of all of them (well maybe).


Will probably run the ARC-1 again just to see what if anything it changes again. I think I will really need to get at least SOME reflection dampening before I am able to realize anywhere near the full potential.


Even just drapes, an area rug and a hanging rug for the back wall would probably do wonders.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. Seriously, on the Hockey thing. I am Canadian, I honestly can't help it. In Montreal when your born you get your butt smacked with a hockey stick and are given Canadians Jersey Jammies and matching formula bottle. You then get to watch everyone your exposed to go completely nuts over Hockey for the next 10 years until you are hopelessly addicted.


Go Habs Go.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/13492882
> 
> 
> There isnt anything better than sitting in front of a 120" screen and (RDS in hi def) and Don Cherry with his loudmouth as well as clothes plus a cold Molson AND the Habs beating Ottawa 7 to 5.All of this in the US!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :



Ya baby. You know it.


Now I know you know










Cheers,


Richard


PS. Anyone lucky enough to be a hockey fan and have a sports package for all the games has been treated to some INSANE hockey the past couple weeks and it isn't even "officially" the playoffs yet. Madness, glorious, insane madness.


----------



## RROSEN

FYI,


All updates, Settings saves/restores with Live Video Settings Editor, FW Update from v1.20 -> 1.31 and the running of the ARC-1 were done on my Windows Vista Business edition Laptop using the Keyspan USA-19HS USB-> Serial adapter.


All I did for the Keyspan was download the Vista 32 drivers as directed from their website and run the install. No other adjustments were necessary and it was ready to go (I did check it in the Device Manager to make sure it had Com port 6 or lower and it did) before I proceeded.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13492529
> 
> 
> The cable change will probably do it. While you've got the cable disconnected, also grab a flashlight and take a look at both plugs and both sockets for any signs of pin damage.
> 
> 
> One other thing, make sure you have the correct Video Output configuration specified in the Setup / Source Setup menu for that input. And double check that you have Preferred = HDMI in the Video Output configuration you are using. It is unlikely these are the problem since lower resolutions from the player are working for you, but double-check them anyway.
> 
> --Bob



I'm also wondering if you're using the same brand/length of cable between the BD player and D2 as is used between the D2 and TV. Yeah, could be the cable. As Bob said, 1080p requires more bandwidth (1's and 0's going faster), which means higher frequencies in the signal.


Has anyone else tried the Denon 3800 with the D2 and 1080p resolution? You might also want to try power cycling the units and try powering them up in different order. Also try changing to a different HDMI input on the D2. If your TV accepts 1080p/24, you might also want to try changing to 1080p/24 video out (instead of 1080p60)


Ryan


----------



## misterdoggy

I upgraded to 1.31


I did the Room correction and it is really bad. Boomy Bass making the needles on my Amps (more right) bounce like someone jumping on a trampoline ?


I just want to go back to when I didn't have it


Any advice. Its al automatic so I don't know what it did but it didn't work


Major Bummer


----------



## BillW

Speaking of HDMI cables. Has anyone tried the Bluejeans bonded pair cables at longer distances? I will be doing a 40 ft run in a few weeks and am curious.


----------



## misterdoggy

I am checking as one satellite with is dig coax and doesn't have the boomy spiking


and the other satellite with hdmi does


I'm going to check the bluray and see now


----------



## misterdoggy

It goes away when I choose Anthem Logic Cinema ??


Although I prefer the Dolby II & THX as the sound is more centered towards the screen


----------



## misterdoggy

OK heres the question


Obviously the Microphone ARC has chosen the best setup but only works correctly with Anthem Cinema Logic.


Anthem Cinema Logic makes the voice come out of the front 3 speakers. Is the any way to narrow the central voice sound to the center speaker then


----------



## misterdoggy

Tried another HDMI cable and that wasn't the solution


Tried an optic cable for audio and that wasn't the solution


Only Anthem Cinema Logic makes it go away


Its curious because it was not there before I ran the ARC. I even went back and tried to un choose the ADV settings as OFF and it still didn't stop.


ARC software had pushed my Sub Volume way up which I turned down manually.


I like the sound out of the other 2 sources and really have not learned everything yet so Its quite possible its a simple fix. I will call Anthem today when the sun rises on The American Continent


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/13494142
> 
> 
> Speaking of HDMI cables. Has anyone tried the Bluejeans bonded pair cables at longer distances? I will be doing a 40 ft run in a few weeks and am curious.



I have a 35 ft Blue Jeans HDMI cable going from my D2 to my Sony Pearl VPL-VW50. No problems ever, nice high-quality, well-constructed cables. FWIW they are larger in diameter than any other HDMI cable I have come across.


Bart


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/13494355
> 
> 
> I have a 35 ft Blue Jeans HDMI cable going from my D2 to my Sony Pearl VPL-VW50. No problems ever, nice high-quality, well-constructed cables. FWIW they are larger in diameter than any other HDMI cable I have come across.
> 
> 
> Bart



I have a 30 foot MonoPrice HDMI cable from my AVR to my projector, also thicker than most, also without any problems.


And a LOT cheaper than BlueJeans, I'm pretty sure.


----------



## Kensmith48

I e-mailed Anthem for the upgrade and it was Piero Ferrari that sent it with the recommendation of using XP to update.


QUOTE=netroamer;13489357]I remember hearing/reading recently that the most success Anthem had with the ARC software was when using it with Vista. That the FW loader does not work with Vista makes little sense. You don't mention who told you not to use Vista. Did you try to see if the .exe file at least opened in Vista? Or, better yet, did you try to access the D2 with the LiveVideo Editor opened in Vista. I was within minutes of pulling the trigger on a new Sony Vaio with Vista Ultimate until I read this. I sent Nick an email asking for a confirmation and he replied, faster then he has ever replied, that Vista works for them, and perhaps any failure is hardware dependent.[/quote]


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13494129
> 
> 
> I upgraded to 1.31
> 
> 
> I did the Room correction and it is really bad. Boomy Bass making the needles on my Amps (more right) bounce like someone jumping on a trampoline ?
> 
> 
> I just want to go back to when I didn't have it
> 
> 
> Any advice. Its al automatic so I don't know what it did but it didn't work
> 
> 
> Major Bummer



The ARC Room EQ can be turned on and off on a per source basis: Setup / Source Setup / / Room EQ.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13494129
> 
> 
> I upgraded to 1.31
> 
> 
> I did the Room correction and it is really bad. Boomy Bass making the needles on my Amps (more right) bounce like someone jumping on a trampoline ?
> 
> 
> I just want to go back to when I didn't have it
> 
> 
> Any advice. Its al automatic so I don't know what it did but it didn't work
> 
> 
> Major Bummer



You can turn it of on a source by source basis. Should be a room correction On/Off in each sources setup. Not sure what setting your left with however. Hopefully your pre ARC-1 settings, but I have no idea.


I would just try running it again. Might have been some external noise or for whatever reason it just didn't work properly that time.


For example when I ran mine, it failed to properly capture the Sub sweep on position 4 twice before it was successful. (Luckily it tells you and asks if you want to retry that ONE sweep for that one position and then move on. Would have sucked to have to start over which was an option.


I will for sure be running it again at least once to see if it comes up with the same settings.


For my setup as well it Lowered the base crossover in the fronts L/C/R speakers (More Base Extension) and raised it for the Sub (Again more base extent ion) and raised the crossover for my surrounds (Less Bass Extension).


So far just listening to some 2 channel Analogue Sat Radio the front sound stage definitely has more bass punch, but I sure wouldn't call it boomy. I think I clearly had my 100's on a bass holiday and they are being better used now.


I will second what another poster said as well. There is such a clear image that appears to be coming from the entire front and the vocals are so tight in the middle that I could swear the Center was on and it is not.


Not sure if this helps, but its like the speakers are gone and there is just the music. While certain instruments etc have a general direction, I cannot localize anything directly to any of the speakers.


That's with compressed 2 channel Sat lol. Can't wait for some high rez stuff and Movie soundtracks.


I may Run Arc-1 again first. I figure the first pass cleans up the big gaps. Now that its had a first pass I figure a second pass can fine tune that.


For those who beta tested, did you find it changed much on subsequent passes?


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/13494142
> 
> 
> Speaking of HDMI cables. Has anyone tried the Bluejeans bonded pair cables at longer distances? I will be doing a 40 ft run in a few weeks and am curious.



I have a 50' run using Monoprice heavy duty with no problems.


----------



## shah993




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13495071
> 
> 
> I have a 50' run using Monoprice heavy duty with no problems.



I have a 50' no name brand cable with a Geffen booster to Optoma H 79 with no problems


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13494896
> 
> 
> You can turn it of on a source by source basis. Should be a room correction On/Off in each sources setup. Not sure what setting your left with however. Hopefully your pre ARC-1 settings, but I have no idea.
> 
> 
> I would just try running it again. Might have been some external noise or for whatever reason it just didn't work properly that time.
> 
> 
> For example when I ran mine, it failed to properly capture the Sub sweep on position 4 twice before it was successful. (Luckily it tells you and asks if you want to retry that ONE sweep for that one position and then move on. Would have sucked to have to start over which was an option.
> 
> 
> I will for sure be running it again at least once to see if it comes up with the same settings.
> 
> 
> For my setup as well it Lowered the base crossover in the fronts L/C/R speakers (More Base Extension) and raised it for the Sub (Again more base extent ion) and raised the crossover for my surrounds (Less Bass Extension).
> 
> 
> So far just listening to some 2 channel Analogue Sat Radio the front sound stage definitely has more bass punch, but I sure wouldn't call it boomy. I think I clearly had my 100's on a bass holiday and they are being better used now.
> 
> 
> I will second what another poster said as well. There is such a clear image that appears to be coming from the entire front and the vocals are so tight in the middle that I could swear the Center was on and it is not.
> 
> 
> Not sure if this helps, but its like the speakers are gone and there is just the music. While certain instruments etc have a general direction, I cannot localize anything directly to any of the speakers.
> 
> 
> That's with compressed 2 channel Sat lol. Can't wait for some high rez stuff and Movie soundtracks.
> 
> 
> I may Run Arc-1 again first. I figure the first pass cleans up the big gaps. Now that its had a first pass I figure a second pass can fine tune that.
> 
> 
> For those who beta tested, did you find it changed much on subsequent passes?
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Richard,


Piero said that there have been problems with the first ARC software and had me download a second version 1.1. I can't get it working yet and as soon as I do I will re-run the mic again. He said what I was describing sounded like a bug they discovered and fixed in the original software.


Bob,


Thanks I know I can turn off the EQ and it takes it out. I wasn't completely satisfied and would like to see it work everywhere.


Does everyone use hdmi for AUDIO ??


It seems there are quirks and problems. The dhmi from my satellite only sent stereo and from the COAX sent 5.1


I'm wondering with bluray whether or not to use coax or hdmi for audio


what is everyones opinion there ?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13495574
> 
> 
> Richard,
> 
> 
> Piero said that there have been problems with the first ARC software and had me download a second version 1.1. I can't get it working yet and as soon as I do I will re-run the mic again. He said what I was describing sounded like a bug they discovered and fixed in the original software.
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks I know I can turn off the EQ and it takes it out. I wasn't completely satisfied and would like to see it work everywhere.
> 
> 
> Does everyone use hdmi for AUDIO ??
> 
> 
> It seems there are quirks and problems. The dhmi from my satellite only sent stereo and from the COAX sent 5.1
> 
> 
> I'm wondering with bluray whether or not to use coax or hdmi for audio
> 
> 
> what is everyones opinion there ?



Definitely use HDMI for BD audio. Only way you can get 6-channel HD sound (LPCM over HDMI). Otherwise you'll be limited to the highly compressed sound (DD/DTS) or 2-channel LPCM.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/13492362
> 
> 
> Hello again,Should I use the AVM50 test tones and leave it at that, or use a dvd disc like.. Joe Cane with test tones on it and do each player, like my PS3 and DENON 3910.
> 
> Reason why I question this is I heard differant stories and, when I set up the levels with the AVM50 test tones, the PS3 seems to play "lower" then the DENON3910, and I poped in the Joe cane DVD just for "fun" and the levels were around the 50-60 db range, where as when I set the AVM50 the levels were 75db.
> 
> Did I do something wrong here??



Trevlan, Here's my take:

Use the Anthem test tones for movies, for Music use the Chesky DVD-A calibration disc. DVD-A\\SACD\\CD test tones are "different".

This is Kris Deering's recommended setup procedure and it works great.


Richard,

I hope you know I got a big kick out of the hockey thing and was just joshing around. I have a couple of friends who are hockey fans and a lot of relatives in Minnesota so I understand the hockey thing.


----------



## wookie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13493322
> 
> 
> FYI,
> 
> 
> All updates, Settings saves/restores with Live Video Settings Editor, FW Update from v1.20 -> 1.31 and the running of the ARC-1 were done on my Windows Vista Business edition Laptop using the Keyspan USA-19HS USB-> Serial adapter.
> 
> 
> All I did for the Keyspan was download the Vista 32 drivers as directed from their website and run the install. No other adjustments were necessary and it was ready to go (I did check it in the Device Manager to make sure it had Com port 6 or lower and it did) before I proceeded.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Did you use Vista in XP emulation mode? I was told by anthem to try that.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Ok, so I see that 1.31 is up on the public Anthem site, along with ARC 1.1.


Having been one of the first in the US to get a D2, believe it or not I'm still running 1.10 very happily. When it ain't broke, don't fix it, right? My question is for us old timers, is it safe to jump in this 1.31 water, for those with the older, original version of the D2? I let all those beta's fly by me, after settling on 1.10 after the original 0.99b/d/e versions (yes, for those that don't know, the original D2 was delivered with 0.99 to me!)...


I will eventually do the ARC-1 add-on, but not in the immediate future.


Anyway, what say the old-timers for the big jump to 1.31?


Thanks for the help,

Brian


----------



## misterdoggy

Figured out all the problems with ARC 1.0


Seems there was a bug with 1.0 that has been fixed with 1.1.


I had few problems with 1.0


1. Sub wasn't configured correctly


2. A bass sound with certain sources


Both were fixed with the update to 1.1


Tricky if you are downloading the software as I had the original Disc that came with the mic, and you have to grab 2 calibration files off the disc for it to work.


However, if you have the original disc its possible to drag the files off the disc.


Don't bother to install 1.0 IMHO


Call Tech if you can't start up ARC because of missing files and they can direct you to which ones on the CD you need to take. They are 2 that relate to the serial number of your unit.


After, its well worth it, outstanding performance, definitely improvements and you feel like your system has been fine tuned like a fine swiss watch.


Finally I can relax and watch and listen.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13495574
> 
> 
> Richard,
> 
> 
> Piero said that there have been problems with the first ARC software and had me download a second version 1.1. I can't get it working yet and as soon as I do I will re-run the mic again. He said what I was describing sounded like a bug they discovered and fixed in the original software.
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks I know I can turn off the EQ and it takes it out. I wasn't completely satisfied and would like to see it work everywhere.
> 
> 
> Does everyone use hdmi for AUDIO ??
> 
> 
> It seems there are quirks and problems. The dhmi from my satellite only sent stereo and from the COAX sent 5.1
> 
> 
> I'm wondering with bluray whether or not to use coax or hdmi for audio
> 
> 
> what is everyones opinion there ?



Glad to hear the 1.1 may fix it. While I certainly have more bass, it's not boomy.


I use HDMI for everything except my Sirius SAT Radio which is 2 channel analogue. I have listened to the SAT Radio (Anthem Logic Cinema), and my cable box HDMI DD Ultra THX Yadda yadda all the bells and whistles .


Just listened to Dire Straits Brother In arms (SACD) and now listening to rolling Stones Hot Rocks (SACD) and all sound great.


Will listen to Bach DVD-A and some soundtracks in a bit (may have to pop out quick).


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wookie* /forum/post/13496433
> 
> 
> Did you use Vista in XP emulation mode? I was told by anthem to try that.



Nope, I didn't do anything special and everything worked just fine.


I have Vista Business SP1 if that makes any difference. I also downloaded the latest Keyspan Vista 32 drivers/software.


Worked great.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. That said, my guess would be that if there were to be any compatibility issues Vista would more likely have problems that XP. Everything working fine for me may not mean the same for everyone.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13495910
> 
> 
> Trevlan, Here's my take:
> 
> Use the Anthem test tones for movies, for Music use the Chesky DVD-A calibration disc. DVD-A\\SACD\\CD test tones are "different".
> 
> This is Kris Deering's recommended setup procedure and it works great.
> 
> 
> Richard,
> 
> I hope you know I got a big kick out of the hockey thing and was just joshing around. I have a couple of friends who are hockey fans and a lot of relatives in Minnesota so I understand the hockey thing.



No worries you had my laughing cause it SO TRUE hahaa.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13497033
> 
> 
> Figured out all the problems with ARC 1.0
> 
> 
> Seems there was a bug with 1.0 that has been fixed with 1.1.
> 
> 
> I had few problems with 1.0
> 
> 
> 1. Sub wasn't configured correctly
> 
> 
> 2. A bass sound with certain sources
> 
> 
> Both were fixed with the update to 1.1
> 
> 
> Tricky if you are downloading the software as I had the original Disc that came with the mic, and you have to grab 2 calibration files off the disc for it to work.
> 
> 
> However, if you have the original disc its possible to drag the files off the disc.
> 
> 
> Don't bother to install 1.0 IMHO
> 
> 
> Call Tech if you can't start up ARC because of missing files and they can direct you to which ones on the CD you need to take. They are 2 that relate to the serial number of your unit.
> 
> 
> After, its well worth it, outstanding performance, definitely improvements and you feel like your system has been fine tuned like a fine swiss watch.
> 
> 
> Finally I can relax and watch and listen.



Gratz man




















































Cheers


Richard


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13494896
> 
> 
> You can turn it of on a source by source basis. Should be a room correction On/Off in each sources setup. Not sure what setting your left with however. Hopefully your pre ARC-1 settings, but I have no idea.
> 
> 
> I would just try running it again. Might have been some external noise or for whatever reason it just didn't work properly that time.
> 
> 
> For example when I ran mine, it failed to properly capture the Sub sweep on position 4 twice before it was successful. (Luckily it tells you and asks if you want to retry that ONE sweep for that one position and then move on. Would have sucked to have to start over which was an option.
> 
> 
> I will for sure be running it again at least once to see if it comes up with the same settings.
> 
> 
> For my setup as well it Lowered the base crossover in the fronts L/C/R speakers (More Base Extension) and raised it for the Sub (Again more base extent ion) and raised the crossover for my surrounds (Less Bass Extension).
> 
> 
> So far just listening to some 2 channel Analogue Sat Radio the front sound stage definitely has more bass punch, but I sure wouldn't call it boomy. I think I clearly had my 100's on a bass holiday and they are being better used now.
> 
> 
> I will second what another poster said as well. There is such a clear image that appears to be coming from the entire front and the vocals are so tight in the middle that I could swear the Center was on and it is not.
> 
> 
> Not sure if this helps, but its like the speakers are gone and there is just the music. While certain instruments etc have a general direction, I cannot localize anything directly to any of the speakers.
> 
> 
> That's with compressed 2 channel Sat lol. Can't wait for some high rez stuff and Movie soundtracks.
> 
> 
> I may Run Arc-1 again first. I figure the first pass cleans up the big gaps. Now that its had a first pass I figure a second pass can fine tune that.
> 
> 
> For those who beta tested, did you find it changed much on subsequent passes?
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Hi Richard,


The last few software updates made very few changes from what I could tell. Was more issues with serial numbers and initialization.


/\\/\\


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13498053
> 
> 
> Hi Richard,
> 
> 
> The last few software updates made very few changes from what I could tell. Was more issues with serial numbers and initialization.
> 
> 
> /\\/\\



What I mean is that after running ARC-1 once, when you ran it a second time did it make many changes? Regardless of ARC-1 SW version.


Going to grab an nice area rug for some reflection deflection (or something like that) maybe I will run it again before placing the rug, then run it again with the rug to see what changes.


Cheers


Richard


----------



## Milt99

Ok, So I understand that Richard got his upgrade locally but has anyone else received notification that their upgrade has shipped or has Anthem acknowledged that kits are shipping?

Thanks.


----------



## misterdoggy

ON my French Satellite I'm having problems on the music channels.


Not all channels, but MTV and a few others.


The D2 is not able to LOCK ON to the signal and keeps jumping in and out.


I had Piero on the phone for 45 minutes but we could not nail it down.


All the other channels seem to work ok


The input is 48k pcm


Piero said the signal might not be stable but they worked with other processors.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13498090
> 
> 
> What I mean is that after running ARC-1 once, when you ran it a second time did it make many changes? Regardless of ARC-1 SW version.
> 
> 
> Going to grab an nice area rug for some reflection deflection (or something like that) maybe I will run it again before placing the rug, then run it again with the rug to see what changes.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Richard




Not really...you can get some real different results if you change height position of the mic. I would say it is extremely important to try to get the mic as close to ear level at the sweet spot as possible. Remove cushions if needed.

/\\/\\


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13492076
> 
> *INFO from the SONY PRESS RELEASE:
> *
> 
> To inaugurate the release of the PS3's BD-Live upgrade, Sony Pictures Home Entertainment has also announced the addition of exclusive BD-Live content to the upcoming Blu-ray releases of '*Walk Hard*: The Dewey Cox Story' and '*The 6th Day*.' Exact details on the additional BD-Live features have not yet been specified, but we'll keep you posted. (Note that these two titles are not the first BD-Live-enabled Blu-rays to be released, however, with Lionsgate's '*War*' and '*Saw IV*' having hit stores earlier this year with BD-Live features already on the discs.)



Well there you go. Thanks!


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/13496477
> 
> 
> Ok, so I see that 1.31 is up on the public Anthem site, along with ARC 1.1.
> 
> 
> Having been one of the first in the US to get a D2, believe it or not I'm still running 1.10 very happily. When it ain't broke, don't fix it, right? My question is for us old timers, is it safe to jump in this 1.31 water, for those with the older, original version of the D2? I let all those beta's fly by me, after settling on 1.10 after the original 0.99b/d/e versions (yes, for those that don't know, the original D2 was delivered with 0.99 to me!)...
> 
> 
> I will eventually do the ARC-1 add-on, but not in the immediate future.
> 
> 
> Anyway, what say the old-timers for the big jump to 1.31?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help,
> 
> Brian



You are NOT alone!!! I too have been running 1.10 and started with the first generation D2. Although I am interested in any conventional wisdom coming from this thread I don't really think we have a choice.


Part of the frustration of waiting for this full production release was the belief that if we were all on the same platform version then our attempts to calibrate our D2's would be greatly enhanced and we could finally get on with real calibration advice and consultation. I for one would argue that if you are a long time member of this community that we have no choice but to upgrade, first for our own benefit and also for every one else's. Starting with the identical versioned D2 we can now build out our peripherals and expect continuity and conformation in the resulting experience.......Hopefully!!!


Peter


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13498144
> 
> 
> Ok, So I understand that Richard got his upgrade locally but has anyone else received notification that their upgrade has shipped or has Anthem acknowledged that kits are shipping?
> 
> Thanks.



I picked mine up today @ 4:00 pm as promised by my dealer. I will install the ARC 1 first thing in the morning.


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/13494142
> 
> 
> Speaking of HDMI cables. Has anyone tried the Bluejeans bonded pair cables at longer distances? I will be doing a 40 ft run in a few weeks and am curious.



I am running a 50 Ft run of that cable through a Gefen 2x2 HDMI splitter/switch with no problems. The biggest problem I had was running that fat SOB through the wall.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13498162
> 
> 
> Not really...you can get some real different results if you change height position of the mic. I would say it is extremely important to try to get the mic as close to ear level at the sweet spot as possible. Remove cushions if needed.
> 
> /\\/\\



Yeah I did that and in fact had to move cushions (I put them back over the mic stand base to try and keep everything as close as possible to what it will be like when listening










Going to run ARC-1 again now to see if it does any further tweaking.


Then I am placing an area rug I got and running it again to see if it makes any difference (Rug is thick with a leathery like shag effect. Cause its leather its at manly non 70's shag effect see.


I also get a huge canvas wall hanging to place behind and above the primary listening position which I will hang and run ARC-1 a third time. Going to have to fit the ARC-1 sweeps into the intermissions in tonight's Habs game hahaa.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13498144
> 
> 
> Ok, So I understand that Richard got his upgrade locally but has anyone else received notification that their upgrade has shipped or has Anthem acknowledged that kits are shipping?
> 
> Thanks.



I put my order in on 3/17/08, and my dealer called me today and told me that Anthem had to make an update to the software for the ARC, and that I should have mine by next week.


----------



## tngiloy

Has anyone installed the ARC-1 and v1.31 using a laptop with Vista and a usb/serial adapter? Since that is what I will be using it would be nice to know if it works.

Tom


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13491631
> 
> 
> This sounds like a classic cabling problem. 1080p is much tougher on cables than 1080i. The cable needing replacement could either be between the 3800 and the Anthem or between the Anthem and the display.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob et all!


Cable it was! I took the 3800BD and HDMI cable over to my dealer, (Truetone in Mississauga), and we tested the cable on their D2/3800 combo and it showed the same snow/streaks.


They replaced the cable at no-charge, (it actually was the AudioQuest HDMI-3 version which is about $500), and installed that on my 3800 pumping through their D2, image was spectacular.


Brought home and hooked everything back up with the new cable and voila!, delightful image.


How-ever................


Truetone has their 3800BD hooked up with the audio being fed out of the RCA jacks through to the D2. They feel this will provide a higher level of audio than via the HDMI port. I have all the cables so have set up the system with the same cabling, (audio over HDMI on the 3800 turned off thus using the analog outputs).


I am wondering what your thoughts are on this route versus audio via the HDMI.


Cheers and thanks for the help.


Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/13499980
> 
> 
> I picked mine up today @ 4:00 pm as promised by my dealer. I will install the ARC 1 first thing in the morning.



You Canadian guys are starting to get on my nerves.









Make sure your first test is on Hockey Night In Canada!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13500425
> 
> 
> I put my order in on 3/17/08, and my dealer called me today and told me that Anthem had to make an update to the software for the ARC, and that I should have mine by next week.



Ninja, whereabouts are you. Thanks.


Ok, now I have a real question:

For music I use a Denon 5910 via analog outs to the D2 6\\SE input using the analog-direct mode. All of the speaker config\\xover is config'd in the Denon.


In order to use ARC, I'm assuming I will need to set all of the parms in the Denon to zero\\flat, run the D2 6\\SE input in analog-dsp with music mode and there would be an extra D\\A conversion.

Thanks.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13489649
> 
> 
> YES YES YES



What are the current capabilities of the PS3 concerning HD DOlby and DTS MA..can it pass them bit stream over HDMI or decode internally?


Also, will it pass a 1080P/24 signal.


Thanks... I am thinking about getting one for another room...I have a Onkyo that will decode both HD audio formats.


-Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13501096
> 
> 
> 
> Ninja, whereabouts are you. Thanks.



Maryland


----------



## TREVLAN

Hi , Bob 1st Thanks for the reply.

I had the joe cane dvd set at 0db or I mean the Anthem at volum ZERO , this is where I set the anthem test tones to when I did the 75db SPL.

I did what you said as for shutting off any processing in my denon, setting speaker distance the same and all speakers large ETC.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13492561
> 
> 
> Just so you understand, the absolute SPL levels you set using the Anthem's test tones should correspond to what you will hear when you play sources with the Anthem's main volume knob set to -10dB -- that is, whenever that source is playing "reference level" loudness passages in its audio track.
> 
> 
> So what Anthem main volume setting did you use when you were playing the Joe cane DVD's tests?
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13500496
> 
> 
> Has anyone installed the ARC-1 and v1.31 using a laptop with Vista and a usb/serial adapter? Since that is what I will be using it would be nice to know if it works.
> 
> Tom




My installer used an usb adapter with his laptop. My D2 has 1.30a and the ACR is 1.1 It works great now after many tries. But that is why we now have ARC 1.1. I believe you should be ok. But not all USB adaptors are equal.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13502573
> 
> 
> My installer used an usb adapter with his laptop. My D2 has 1.30a and the ACR is 1.1 It works great now after many tries. But that is why we now have ARC 1.1. I believe you should be ok. But not all USB adaptors are equal.



Do you know if he was using Vista or XP?

I have Vista and am worried it won't work properly. I couldn't get a definitive answer from Piero(?) at Anthem. All he would say was that he knew that their program worked with XP with a rs232 serial connection. I thought they might have tested it with a Vista-usb/serial set-up to know if it worked or not, but apprently not. They must have had their hands full just getting the software updated to work properly.


----------



## misterdoggy

Nobody has answered my question yet ?


I have a few channels on my 2nd Satellite ALL ONLY MUSIC CHANNELS

that come in 48hz Stereo PCM that the D2 is unable to lock on to the signal.


It jumps in an out


Anyone have any IDEA please ???


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/13496477
> 
> 
> Ok, so I see that 1.31 is up on the public Anthem site, along with ARC 1.1.
> 
> 
> Having been one of the first in the US to get a D2, believe it or not I'm still running 1.10 very happily. When it ain't broke, don't fix it, right? My question is for us old timers, is it safe to jump in this 1.31 water, for those with the older, original version of the D2? I let all those beta's fly by me, after settling on 1.10 after the original 0.99b/d/e versions (yes, for those that don't know, the original D2 was delivered with 0.99 to me!)...
> 
> 
> I will eventually do the ARC-1 add-on, but not in the immediate future.
> 
> 
> Anyway, what say the old-timers for the big jump to 1.31?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help,
> 
> Brian



Go with 1.31 at this point. It is really solid and makes a number of improvements (fixed problems like how the D2 was passing through video to zone 2 over component - much faster to lock onto video when you switch resolution as you change channel and blacks out screen now instead of "bluing" out the screen, adds features, fixes some audio glitches,etc.).


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13498144
> 
> 
> Ok, So I understand that Richard got his upgrade locally but has anyone else received notification that their upgrade has shipped or has Anthem acknowledged that kits are shipping?
> 
> Thanks.



Spoke to my dealer yesterday and they are hoping the ARC will be in Tuesday.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/13501273
> 
> 
> What are the current capabilities of the PS3 concerning HD DOlby and DTS MA..can it pass them bit stream over HDMI or decode internally?
> 
> 
> Also, will it pass a 1080P/24 signal.
> 
> 
> Thanks... I am thinking about getting one for another room...I have a Onkyo that will decode both HD audio formats.
> 
> 
> -Bob



The PS3 decodes Dolby TruHD and passes it over HDMI via LPCM. It can't currently decode DTS-MA, but DTS-MA support is expected via firmware update by the end of the year.


The PS3 cannot pass lossless formats over bitstream (I understand this is a hardware limitation), but this limitation is not too important for us D2 owners.


The PS3 does pass a 1080p/24 signal.


Firmware update 2.20 just added BD 2.0 support.


In sum, other than (i) running VERY hot and (ii) having an unconventional form factor that doesn't look great in a rack, I think the PS3 is a perfect Blu-Ray player to match with a D2 or AVM-50.


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13503420
> 
> 
> ...I think the PS3 is a perfect Blu-Ray player to match with a D2 or AVM-50.



Once Sony adds DTS-MA decoding, agreed....but except for the bluetooth remote


----------



## chas

My D2 came back from repair with 1.30 installed. What's the difference between 1.30 and 1.31? Is the addition of ARC the only change?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/13500521
> 
> 
> (it actually was the AudioQuest HDMI-3 version which is about $500),
> 
> Bob



Pure Insanity You can get the *SAME Quality cable* and DROP the ZERO off the Price


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/13501273
> 
> 
> What are the current capabilities of the PS3 concerning HD DOlby and DTS MA..can it pass them bit stream over HDMI or decode internally?
> 
> 
> Also, will it pass a 1080P/24 signal.
> 
> 
> Thanks... I am thinking about getting one for another room...I have a Onkyo that will decode both HD audio formats.
> 
> 
> -Bob



I don't use the Bitstream capability - so I do not

know the answer. There are PS3 threads on AVS

which can answer that question better. Even though

you have an Onkyo - as long as the player decodes

to LPCM over HDMI - you get PERFECT Lossless Audio.


As for the 1080p/24 - that update was probably

9 months ago.


My only GRIPE about the PS3 is no IR remote. There

are some kludge solutions. It is fast as heck compared

to standalone Blu-Ray Players. If Sony had IR for the

PS3 - I would probably give up on standalone players.


----------



## misterdoggy

When I switch sources both coming in 1080i I lose the image on my french satellite.


It says 1080i for input but no image.


If I turn off the satellite and turn it back on the image comes back.


I've tried 3 different cables


Any ideas


I am having lots of problem with the French Satellite


not the DVD or Sky English Satelite


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/13496477
> 
> 
> Ok, so I see that 1.31 is up on the public Anthem site, along with ARC 1.1.
> 
> 
> Having been one of the first in the US to get a D2, believe it or not I'm still running 1.10 very happily. When it ain't broke, don't fix it, right? My question is for us old timers, is it safe to jump in this 1.31 water, for those with the older, original version of the D2? I let all those beta's fly by me, after settling on 1.10 after the original 0.99b/d/e versions (yes, for those that don't know, the original D2 was delivered with 0.99 to me!)...
> 
> 
> I will eventually do the ARC-1 add-on, but not in the immediate future.
> 
> 
> Anyway, what say the old-timers for the big jump to 1.31?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help,
> 
> Brian



I have an "older" D2 (June '06), just upgraded to 1.31 and it works fine. I too have been very cautious on updates, as this is only my second software update on my D2. I will admit I have not tried all sources, but so far with DirecTV HD and HD-DVD it's working fine. I am waiting on the ARC as well, to let some of the bugs get worked out.


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13503728
> 
> 
> Pure Insanity You can get the *SAME Quality cable* and DROP the ZERO off the Price



Yes, I know now drhankz but when originally putting the whole HT plan together, I was all wrapped up on best quality. I should have done a lot more investigation on the interconnects. At least and it is a very small comfort, is that the cable was replaced immediately for one that works.


Cheers, (he says in a humble voice)!


Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/13504264
> 
> 
> Yes, I know now drhankz but when originally putting the whole HT plan together, I was all wrapped up on best quality. I should have done a lot more investigation on the interconnects. At least and it is a very small comfort, is that the cable was replaced immediately for one that works.
> 
> 
> Cheers, (he says in a humble voice)!
> 
> 
> Bob



At that price besides replacing it - I hope the dealer

provided a chauffeur driven limousine for you to go

to and from the store for the exchange.


----------



## Bob Anderson

Hi


With a new HDMI cable for the 3800-->D2, picture and sound are astonishing but I would appreciate if I could get some feedback on my settings so as to ensure I am actually getting the full audio capabilities out of the combination.


Denen 3800 is set at:


BD Audio Mode --> HD Audio Output

HDMI Audio Out --> HDMI Multi (Normal)


D2 is set at:


Channel Mode Presets: 6.0: PLIIx Movie, (THX is off).


Audio In: Digi HDMI

Auto Dig: Yes

HDMI Map: Auto

Muting: have at MIN but not sure as yet.

Bass NGR: Auto-LFE


I am going to do some testing with the analog audio route tomorrow but have some guests coming over tonight to particpate in the 8PM 60 minutes lights off celebration and then am going to show them some samples of the 3800/D2performance so any advice would be appreciated.


Thanks in advance.


Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13503762
> 
> 
> I don't use the Bitstream capability - so I do not
> 
> know the answer. There are PS3 threads on AVS
> 
> which can answer that question better. Even though
> 
> you have an Onkyo - as long as the player decodes
> 
> to LPCM over HDMI - you get PERFECT Lossless Audio.
> 
> 
> As for the 1080p/24 - that update was probably
> 
> 9 months ago.
> 
> 
> My only GRIPE about the PS3 is no IR remote. There
> 
> are some kludge solutions. It is fast as heck compared
> 
> to standalone Blu-Ray Players. If Sony had IR for the
> 
> PS3 - I would probably give up on standalone players.



I foiund out some answeres regarding the lossless codecs and the PS3


So currently the PS3 will not nor ever will have the capability to pass the Dolby HD or DTSMA via bitstream.


The PS3 currently will internally decode DolbyHD and pass it along via LPCM via HDMI. However, currently it willnot decode DTSMA. This is rumored to be added in a future update. This is good news for us D2 owners.


Connectivity:


So how do you control the PS3? Through an RF remote? Can the PS3 be controled out of site in a cabinet an or integrated into a single third party like the D2?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13503616
> 
> 
> Once Sony adds DTS-MA decoding, agreed....but except for the bluetooth remote





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13503762
> 
> 
> 
> My only GRIPE about the PS3 is no IR remote. There
> 
> are some kludge solutions. It is fast as heck compared
> 
> to standalone Blu-Ray Players. If Sony had IR for the
> 
> PS3 - I would probably give up on standalone players.



Here is the solution to that problem

IR2BT Converter


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13503828
> 
> 
> When I switch sources both coming in 1080i I lose the image on my french satellite.
> 
> 
> It says 1080i for input but no image.
> 
> 
> If I turn off the satellite and turn it back on the image comes back.
> 
> 
> I've tried 3 different cables
> 
> 
> Any ideas
> 
> 
> I am having lots of problem with the French Satellite
> 
> 
> not the DVD or Sky English Satelite



Can you try going component and optical/coax instead of HDMI? Your French SAT receiver may have a poor implementation of HDMI.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/13503858
> 
> 
> I have an "older" D2 (June '06), just upgraded to 1.31 and it works fine. I too have been very cautious on updates, as this is only my second software update on my D2. I will admit I have not tried all sources, but so far with DirecTV HD and HD-DVD it's working fine. I am waiting on the ARC as well, to let some of the bugs get worked out.



I also have a D2 from June/July 2006. I just upgraded yesterday from 1.11e to 1.31.


It works very well so far. A lot of little hesitations are gone, although it does take around five seconds more to start up.


One thing - follow the upgrade instructions to the letter, and after restoring, shut down the machine for at least a few minutes. I thought I did this, but noticed that the Setup menu had a lot of flickering and video snow wherever the current selection was. Then my Tivo HD was displaying with posterized colors. I shut it down for a few hours, came back to watch a movie and voila! everything looked GREAT. So if things look weird, shut it down.


I will say that the update process takes forever over serial. I do hope that Anthem puts an Ethernet port on their next pre-pro.


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/13504386
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> With a new HDMI cable for the 3800-->D2, picture and sound are astonishing but I would appreciate if I could get some feedback on my settings so as to ensure I am actually getting the full audio capabilities out of the combination.
> 
> 
> Denen 3800 is set at:
> 
> 
> BD Audio Mode --> HD Audio Output
> 
> HDMI Audio Out --> HDMI Multi (Normal)
> 
> 
> D2 is set at:
> 
> 
> Channel Mode Presets: 6.0: PLIIx Movie, (THX is off).
> 
> 
> Audio In: Digi HDMI
> 
> Auto Dig: Yes
> 
> HDMI Map: Auto
> 
> Muting: have at MIN but not sure as yet.
> 
> Bass NGR: Auto-LFE
> 
> 
> I am going to do some testing with the analog audio route tomorrow but have some guests coming over tonight to particpate in the 8PM 60 minutes lights off celebration and then am going to show them some samples of the 3800/D2performance so any advice would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Bob



Update:


Testing the analog outputs from the Denen 3800BD to the D2 was bugging me so I just had to see if there was a difference, set up a 6-channel mode that was analog in with DSP but Channel Mode Preset for 6.0 at "None"


Tested the IMAX Space movie and the background voices of the astronauts and the Thunder/Lightening scene were identical to the HDMI delivered audio when set to DVD, (above quote config). What I need to test further is the tuning for the Sub and to get someone's feedback on if I am totally missing something in this testing.


Cheers


Bob


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13504672
> 
> 
> Can you try going component and optical/coax instead of HDMI? Your French SAT receiver may have a poor implementation of HDMI.



It only has either Composite or hdmi for video










coax works for 98% of the channels


Its weird because I can have the picture and go to the menu to check my settings and when I go back the picture is gone.


It only finds the image on satellite startup


----------



## [email protected]




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13489916
> 
> 
> Just to reiterate for any folks just now joining the discussion, the new V1.31 software for the D2 is intended for ALL users with ALL source device and display hardware configurations. It is required if you want to use the ARC (Room EQ) upgrade, but should also be installed by users who, for whatever reason, don't intend to use ARC right now.
> 
> 
> For AVM-50 users, of course, ARC is not an issue. Install the V1.31 software for the AVM-50 at your earliest convenience.
> 
> 
> There are a metric ton of bug fixes in this software compared to say, V1.11 or V1.06 -- and even compared to V1.20. Undoubtedly we'll find a few gotchas in this new software, but this really is a release intended for ALL owners and the feedback from beta testers posting here has been quite positive.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I recently downloaded from Anthems website the AVM-50 v1.31 software and I wanted to know which setup editor should I be using to save my settings. I did not see v1.31. Secondly, does the "Belt and Suspender Approach to doing the update and install at the beginning of this thread still apply? Thanks


German


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/13504663
> 
> 
> Here is the solution to that problem
> 
> IR2BT Converter



Yes - I know - I was suppose to be on HIS WAITING list.


But he never notified me and the 1st 200 are GONE.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13503616
> 
> 
> ....but except for the bluetooth remote



I use a Nyko BT/IR dongle (Nyko Blue Wave - http://www.nyko.com/nyko/products/?i=113 ) and control my PS3 with an RTI T-4 remote - it is not completely full function, but gives me everything I really need. The only real downside is no on/off control, but that is pretty minor since I have to get up to put a disc in anyway.


Also, you can look into http://www.schmartz.com/main.sc , which makes the PS3ir+PWR (a USB IR solution for the PS3 that also gives you on/off control) and uses PS2 IR commands. RemoteCentral.com also has an article about something called an IR4PS3, which modifies a Sony BT remote with an IR receiver and adds full IR functionality to the PS3 - http://www.remotecentral.com/article..._ir_remote.htm 


Regards.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13506423
> 
> 
> 
> Also, you can look into http://www.schmartz.com/main.sc , which makes the PS3ir+PWR
> 
> 
> Regards.




Yup - I own that one.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/13504411
> 
> 
> So how do you control the PS3? Through an RF remote? Can the PS3 be controled out of site in a cabinet an or integrated into a single third party like the D2?



Nyko Blue Wave USB IR dongle with an ir emitter on it and and an RTI T4 remote - works fine except for no on/off.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13506436
> 
> 
> Yup - I own that one.



Is it any better than the Nyko?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13506484
> 
> 
> Is it any better than the Nyko?



I think so because the On/Off function is CRITICAL to me.


If you don't care about On/Off - then they are on par.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13504749
> 
> 
> It works very well so far. A lot of little hesitations are gone, although it does take around five seconds more to start up.



When I asked Nick about the 5 sec slowdown, he responded : "Slowdown is necessary evil to keep every system on the planet (that we know

of) happy."


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13506518
> 
> 
> I think so because the On/Off function is CRITICAL to me.
> 
> 
> If you don't care about On/Off - then they are on par.



Thanks - on/off probably much less important to me than programming time for my installer to reprogram my T4.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/13503619
> 
> 
> My D2 came back from repair with 1.30 installed. What's the difference between 1.30 and 1.31? Is the addition of ARC the only change?



I believe 1.30 is what was 1.29j or 1.29k on the beta site. At least for me there is a big difference, since a timing error in 1.29x used to kill my video. I would upgrade to 1.31, but if your system is working fine, there may be no need. I think 1.30 was supposed to work with ARC.


----------



## misterdoggy

Are there cables more compatible from the experience of D2 owners ??


I'm using Nordost Silver Screen but I am not crazy about them for 2 reasons


Not a tight fit into the sockets


The Cable is thick and not very flexible and puts undo pressure on the socket


Any recommendations from the Peanut Gallery ??


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13510737
> 
> 
> Are there cables more compatible from the experience of D2 owners ??
> 
> 
> I'm using Nordost Silver Screen but I am not crazy about them for 2 reasons
> 
> 
> Not a tight fit into the sockets
> 
> 
> The Cable is thick and not very flexible and puts undo pressure on the socket
> 
> 
> Any recommendations from the Peanut Gallery ??




Other than the 50' powered fiber optic HDMI cable I have, my HDMI cables are exclusively the 1.3 HDMI cables from monoprice. I'm also using the monoprice hdmi port saver cables. I'm very happy with them. My brother has also gone with all monoprice cables with his Integra setup. Very reasonably priced and quite amazing quality. I also have a lower end integra in the playroom connected to a 1080p plasma and use monoprice cables there, including a 35' cable and everything is great.


----------



## tngiloy

Has anyone upgraded their D2 to the new v1.31 software and ARC-1 using a Vista run laptop?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13513002
> 
> 
> Has anyone upgraded their D2 to the new v1.31 software and ARC-1 using a Vista run laptop?



Yes - NOT ME - But I remember others have.


Of Course I also remember some troubles and things they needed to do.


You'll have to search the thread to find out what they had to say.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13503728
> 
> 
> Pure Insanity You can get the *SAME Quality cable*and DROP the ZERO off the Price



Monoprice and Bluejeans are indeed good cables, but they are not the "same quality" as AudioQuest. I have auditioned all 3 between a PS3 and D2, and noticable differences do exist. Whether these differences are valued and worth paying for is of course an individual choice.


Someone posted here earlier about another mfg, VizionWare, that looked interesting. I'm considering trying one of their cables to see if an improvement exists over AudioQuest HDMI-1.


----------



## Ian_Currie

What type of noticible differences, Krops?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13513995
> 
> 
> Monoprice and Bluejeans are indeed good cables, but they are not the "same quality" as AudioQuest. I have auditioned all 3 between a PS3 and D2, and noticable differences do exist. Whether these differences are valued and worth paying for is of course an individual choice.
> 
> 
> Someone posted here earlier about another mfg, VizionWare, that looked interesting. I'm considering trying one of their cables to see if an improvement exists over AudioQuest HDMI-1.



There is no difference. Digital is digital. HDMI is all digital.


Care to elaborate on the "noticable differences"?


It is truly insane to pay $500 for any HDMI cable. The exact same quality and cable can be had for $50 or less.


(Analog is perhaps a different story, but even that is sketchy at best.)


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13513995
> 
> 
> Monoprice and Bluejeans are indeed good cables, but they are not the "same quality" as AudioQuest. I have auditioned all 3 between a PS3 and D2, and noticable differences do exist. Whether these differences are valued and worth paying for is of course an individual choice.
> 
> 
> Someone posted here earlier about another mfg, VizionWare, that looked interesting. I'm considering trying one of their cables to see if an improvement exists over AudioQuest HDMI-1.



That was me.


I am still quite impressed by them. Everything is crisper. I just bought the Denon 3800 and it too looks better with these VizionWare cables compared to the AudioQuest HDMI-1's.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/13514404
> 
> 
> That was me.
> 
> 
> I am still quite impressed by them. Everything is crisper. I just bought the Denon 3800 and it too looks better with these VizionWare cables compared to the AudioQuest HDMI-1's.



You guys have to be kidding, right? Are you saying the video or audio is "crisper"? And this is over HDMI?


And how do you explain "crisper" with a digital signal, that is digital to your display/D2?


This is a massive placebo effect...


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13503762
> 
> 
> I don't use the Bitstream capability - so I do not
> 
> know the answer. There are PS3 threads on AVS
> 
> which can answer that question better. Even though
> 
> you have an Onkyo - as long as the player decodes
> 
> to LPCM over HDMI - you get PERFECT Lossless Audio.
> 
> 
> As for the 1080p/24 - that update was probably
> 
> 9 months ago.
> 
> 
> My only GRIPE about the PS3 is no IR remote. There
> 
> are some kludge solutions. It is fast as heck compared
> 
> to standalone Blu-Ray Players. If Sony had IR for the
> 
> PS3 - I would probably give up on standalone players.




Mr Drhankz


How user friendly is the PS3 when you just want to watch a blue ray movie. Is it as easy as popping the dvd into a stand alone player or do you have to fully turn on the PS3 and then navigate through the PS3 menu a bit prior to playing the disk?


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/13514882
> 
> 
> Mr Drhankz
> 
> 
> How user friendly is the PS3 when you just want to watch a blue ray movie. Is it as easy as popping the dvd into a stand alone player or do you have to fully turn on the PS3 and then navigate through the PS3 menu a bit prior to playing the disk?



The official PS3 as BluRay player thread is probably a better place for the question.


However, yes, if the PS3 is turned off when you put in a disc, BD or DVD, it powers on and automatically plays the disc. There is no PS3 menu navigation required.


If the PS3 is on at at it's main menu when you put in a movie disc, it automatically plays it.


If the PS3 is doing something else (such a running the [email protected] application) when you put in a movie disc, nothing happens. At that point, you would have to quit the other application and manually navigate to the movie menu and select the disc. At that point the movie will play automatically.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/13514882
> 
> 
> Mr Drhankz
> 
> 
> How user friendly is the PS3 when you just want to watch a blue ray movie. Is it as easy as popping the dvd into a stand alone player or do you have to fully turn on the PS3 and then navigate through the PS3 menu a bit prior to playing the disk?



Tim answered you before I did


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13514064
> 
> 
> There is no difference. Digital is digital. HDMI is all digital.
> 
> 
> Care to elaborate on the "noticable differences"?
> 
> 
> It is truly insane to pay $500 for any HDMI cable. The exact same quality and cable can be had for $50 or less.
> 
> 
> (Analog is perhaps a different story, but even that is sketchy at best.)



I heard digital is just digital before. How can CD players be any different people use to say? Of course there is a difference. I'd test the HDMI cables and then give an opinion. I do find that some cheaper HDMI cables do not fit as snug as some of the higher quality ones.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13505611
> 
> 
> Yes - I know - I was suppose to be on HIS WAITING list.
> 
> 
> But he never notified me and the 1st 200 are GONE.



Yeah I am in the queue as well. Or at least I think I am hahaa.


Few million PS3 owners and 200 shipped so who knows how far down the list I am hahaa.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13514064
> 
> 
> There is no difference. Digital is digital. HDMI is all digital.
> 
> 
> Care to elaborate on the "noticable differences"?
> 
> 
> It is truly insane to pay $500 for any HDMI cable. The exact same quality and cable can be had for $50 or less.
> 
> 
> (Analog is perhaps a different story, but even that is sketchy at best.)



The improvements I noticed in going from Monoprice HDMI to AudioQuest HDMI-1 were:

Menu text on the PS3 x-bar was sharper and more distinct from the background.
Smoother video. At the time my test materials were mainly the Stealth and Transformers HD trailers. The Stealth trailer opens with the camera moving across an ocean. The scene has a rock island, and I noticed the island moves across the screen more smoothly with the AudioQuest cable.

In general, I found the AudioQuest cable to be more "watchable". There's a colorful scene in the Stealth trailer where the AI inventor (don't know the actor's name, but he also played in T2) stands next to his creation and states "it could replace us all". In that scene, the person (inventor) is more distinct from the aircraft using the AudioQuest cable than with the Monoprice cable. My brain had to work less to comprehend the scene.


I can make similar statements about the action scenes in the Transformers trailer. Everything was just more watchable under the AudioQuest cable than the Monoprice. I also noticed improvements in the PS3 game I was playing at the time, Ninja Gaiden Sigma. I had a better sense of objects on the screen and things just seemed clearer.


Do we have nothing better to do with our money than spend $100s more than necessary for a perceived benefit only? The differences are not a placebo affect, they are real. I was introduced to Monoprice and Bluejeans from these forums and sincerely hoped that HDMI was different - that the same differences among various coax/optical digital audio cables don't exist here, but they do. Again, whether these differences are valued and worth the extra $$$ is an individual choice.


All I can suggest is anyone interested in getting the absolute most from their system try an "exotic" cable for yourself - one with a no-risk return policy.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13511040
> 
> 
> Other than the 50' powered fiber optic HDMI cable I have, my HDMI cables are exclusively the 1.3 HDMI cables from monoprice. I'm also using the monoprice hdmi port saver cables. I'm very happy with them. My brother has also gone with all monoprice cables with his Integra setup. Very reasonably priced and quite amazing quality. I also have a lower end integra in the playroom connected to a 1080p plasma and use monoprice cables there, including a 35' cable and everything is great.



I also use Monoprice. They work great for me. Every cable I am currently using costs less combined than one of the Monster Component cables I use lol.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13513031
> 
> 
> Yes - NOT ME - But I remember others have.
> 
> 
> Of Course I also remember some troubles and things they needed to do.
> 
> 
> You'll have to search the thread to find out what they had to say.



I uses a laptop with Vista Business edition with SP1 and the Keyspan USA19HS USB to Serial adapter. Nick had actually said to go ahead and use the laptop if it was more convinient.


I upgrated from FW 1.20 to 1.31 and ran ARC-1 a few times as well.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13516698
> 
> 
> The improvements I noticed in going from Monoprice HDMI to AudioQuest HDMI-1 were:
> 
> Menu text on the PS3 x-bar was sharper and more distinct from the background.
> Smoother video. At the time my test materials were mainly the Stealth and Transformers HD trailers. The Stealth trailer opens with the camera moving across an ocean. The scene has a rock island, and I noticed the island moves across the screen more smoothly with the AudioQuest cable.
> 
> In general, I found the AudioQuest cable to be more "watchable". There's a colorful scene in the Stealth trailer where the AI inventor (don't know the actor's name, but he also played in T2) stands next to his creation and states "it could replace us all". In that scene, the person (inventor) is more distinct from the aircraft using the AudioQuest cable than with the Monoprice cable. My brain had to work less to comprehend the scene.
> 
> 
> I can make similar statements about the action scenes in the Transformers trailer. Everything was just more watchable under the AudioQuest cable than the Monoprice. I also noticed improvements in the PS3 game I was playing at the time, Ninja Gaiden Sigma. I had a better sense of objects on the screen and things just seemed clearer.
> 
> 
> Do we have nothing better to do with our money than spend $100s more than necessary for a perceived benefit only? The differences are not a placebo affect, they are real. I was introduced to Monoprice and Bluejeans from these forums and sincerely hoped that HDMI was different - that the same differences among various coax/optical digital audio cables don't exist here, but they do. Again, whether these differences are valued and worth the extra $$$ is an individual choice.
> 
> 
> All I can suggest is anyone interested in getting the absolute most from their system try an "exotic" cable for yourself - one with a no-risk return policy.



These are digital signals folks, 1s and 0s. I can't believe you would see any difference in picture quality between 2 cables. The transmiting device converts the signal to analog for transmission down the wire, but the clock and bit pattern are recovered at the receiving end. I haven't read the HDMI spec (it can be downloaded from www.hdmi.org ), but the bit pattern is likely protected by an error detection/correction algorithm. Basically, it either works or it doesn't (similar to a USB cable between a hard drive and a computer). A bad cable might not work at all, but there will not be any picture quality difference between working cables.


A better cable will probably work over longer distances (better conductors, insulation), and probably has better quality connectors for a snug fit... but picture quality ... no way.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13516970
> 
> 
> These are digital signals folks, 1s and 0s. I can't believe you would see any difference in picture quality between 2 cables. The signals do get carried in analog format down the wire, but the clock and bit pattern are recovered at the receiving end. I haven't read the HDMI spec (it can be downloaded from www.hdmi.org ), but the bit pattern is likely protected by an error detection/correction algorithm. Basically, it either works or it doesn't (similar to a USB cable between a hard drive and a computer). A bad cable might not work at all, but there will not be any picture quality difference between working cables.



I wish I understood why differences exist among digital cables in home theater, but they are there. For that matter, I never really understood why digital components can't be connected by USB, firewire or CAT5. If we can transfer large volumes of lossless data at high bit rates in the PC world...why not use the same technology in home theater?? But I digress...


One way to look at it is to take the extreme case. Do you really expect identical output from Monster's lowest-end HDMI cable and a $500 exotic HDMI cable? Or even a $25 Monoprice cable? If yes, then I highly suggest you audition different cables for yourself. If no, then we have to agree that it is really not an all-or-nothing proposition and that something is to be gained from a premium cable.


Afterall, why does Monoprice offer different flavors of HDMI cable at the same length? Should their 28AWG HDMI 1.3a cable at 3ft be expected to perform the same as their "High Quality" 24AWG gold plated HDMI 1.3a cable at 3ft?


In my testing (which was about a year ago), I concluded the following between a PS3 and D2:

Monoprice was better than Monster
Bluejeans was as good or better than Monoprice (really too close to call definitively)
AudioQuest was better than Bluejeans


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13517039
> 
> 
> I wish I understood why differences exist among digital cables in home theater, but they are there. For that matter, I never really understood why digital components can't be connected by USB, firewire or CAT5. If we can transfer large volumes of lossless data at high bit rates in the PC world...why not use the same technology in home theater?? But I digress...
> 
> 
> One way to look at it is to take the extreme case. Do you really expect identical output from Monster's lowest-end HDMI cable and a $500 exotic HDMI cable? Or even a $25 Monoprice cable? If yes, then I highly suggest you audition different cables for yourself. If no, then we have to agree that it is really not an all-or-nothing proposition and that something is to be gained from a premium cable.
> 
> 
> Afterall, why does Monoprice offer different flavors of HDMI cable at the same length? Should their 28AWG HDMI 1.3a cable at 3ft be expected to perform the same as their "High Quality" 24AWG gold plated HDMI 1.3a cable at 3ft?
> 
> 
> In my testing (which was about a year ago), I concluded the following between a PS3 and D2:
> 
> Monoprice was better than Monster
> Bluejeans was as good or better than Monoprice (really too close to call definitively)
> AudioQuest was better than Bluejeans



Basically, this boils down to marketing from the cable manufacturers, they are running a business, and they want to take your money. They also want to have multiple products at different price points. The AudioQuest cable probably is engineered to have better electrical characteristics. I will agree it probably has lower signal loss ... but I'm saying it won't make a difference to the picture. The signal has to be just good enough for the 1s and 0s to be recovered, and after that, there's no difference.


If I was selling a cable for $500, I'd probably advertise it had a better picture too.


From a technical perspective, Firewire or USB probably could be used to transfer video data between home theater components. We have HDMI because it's what the industry decided to standardize on.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13517061
> 
> 
> Basically, this boils down to marketing from the cable manufacturers, they are running a business, and they want to take your money.



Based on direct observation, I could not disagree more. The premium cables are indeed over-priced IMO, but I do notice a difference, and the differences are important enough to me to suck it up and pay it. I somewhat justify it in that the enjoyment for such an investment will last for many years (unless the industry makes the current standard obsolete...).


At the end of the day when I come home to watch TV or a movie, I prefer to know I'm getting the best picture possible from the components in my system. Conversely, and more to the point, I don't want the weakest link in my system to be the HDMI cables.


But I guess we'll have to agree to disagree







Again, please give a premium cable a try if you can find one with a no-risk return policy. You could be pleasantly surprised...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13516674
> 
> 
> Yeah I am in the queue as well. Or at least I think I am hahaa.
> 
> 
> Richard



But Bruce warns you he has NO QUEUE


----------



## yourlilbro

Hey guys, just finished watching the Prestige, great movie. Wanted to watch Laserdisc ( WHAT?) tonight, probably Grease, but then something isn't right, I can't seem to get the S-Video to Output HDMI. I've put it through S-video in AUX.


Any help is appreciated. Projector is RS1.


Thanks,

Farhan


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13516730
> 
> 
> I uses a laptop with Vista Business edition with SP1 and the Keyspan USA19HS USB to Serial adapter. Nick had actually said to go ahead and use the laptop if it was more convinient.
> 
> 
> I upgrated from FW 1.20 to 1.31 and ran ARC-1 a few times as well.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Thanks,

I'm feeling less apprehensive. I'm running Vista Home Basic. I don't know if the SP1 would make any difference, but I would hate to give Bill Gates any more of my money. I have the Keyspan on order from Newegg and the ARC-1 on order from Anthem and I'll give it a try when it all gets here.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13517110
> 
> 
> Based on direct observation, I could not disagree more. The premium cables are indeed over-priced IMO, but I do notice a difference, and the differences are important enough to me to suck it up and pay it. I somewhat justify it in that the enjoyment for such an investment will last for many years (unless the industry makes the current standard obsolete...).
> 
> 
> At the end of the day when I come home to watch TV or a movie, I prefer to know I'm getting the best picture possible from the components in my system. Conversely, and more to the point, I don't want the weakest link in my system to be the HDMI cables.
> 
> 
> But I guess we'll have to agree to disagree
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, please give a premium cable a try if you can find one with a no-risk return policy. You could be pleasantly surprised...



And there's no question you are absolutely wrong, for what it's worth. (And there was recently a test of this, using actual measurements of the data being sent - it's digital after all - which proved you absolutely wrong.) But if it makes you feel better, which is really the point, then by all means, spend the extra money.


I'm thinking of starting a $500 USB cable company. Want to buy some of them? The data will transfer much more cleanly than with those cheap $5 USB cables.


If you look at a photograph that was transferred over a $5 USB cable compared to my $500 USB cable, you'll notice much deeper colors and finer detail. It's amazing. If you care about the quality of your data when you transfer it over USB, you owe it to yourself to buy my $500 USB cables. And I'll give a 20% discount to registered AVS forum members with more than 50 posts.


----------



## bhrvatin

Has anyone yet received the ARC-1 upgrade who ordered through a US dealer?


Bart


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/13518714
> 
> 
> Has anyone yet received the ARC-1 upgrade who ordered through a US dealer?
> 
> 
> Bart



Not me.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13518749
> 
> 
> Not me.



They are shipping them out alphabetically - so like

me [Z] - you should be at the END of the list


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13519071
> 
> 
> They are shipping them out alphabetically - so like
> 
> me [Z] - you should be at the END of the list


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13514798
> 
> 
> You guys have to be kidding, right? Are you saying the video or audio is "crisper"? And this is over HDMI?
> 
> 
> And how do you explain "crisper" with a digital signal, that is digital to your display/D2?
> 
> 
> This is a massive placebo effect...



Perhaps, but I have nothing to gain making such statements. I am simply passing on my experience.


The irony of the situation is that it is the cheaper cable that is providing the benefit.


When denying that digital cables can make a difference, why do people consistently use the "0's and 1's" argument? Why don't you experiment yourself instead of stating as fact that there will be no difference?


Getting back to the D2: I updated to v1.31 last night using an XP-based laptop, and all is good. Also, the install appeared faster than previous installs/upgrades. I do not make use of ARC yet (to come)


----------



## PooperScooper

Hey guys, please take the cable discussion elsewhere, it's getting out of hand. It really has no bearing on the D2 compared to any other piece of equipment. Thanks.


larry


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/13519327
> 
> 
> Perhaps, but I have nothing to gain making such statements. I am simply passing on my experience.
> 
> 
> The irony of the situation is that it is the cheaper cable that is providing the benefit.
> 
> 
> When denying that digital cables can make a difference, why do people consistently use the "0's and 1's" argument? Why don't you experiment yourself instead of stating as fact that there will be no difference?
> 
> 
> Getting back to the D2: I updated to v1.31 last night using an XP-based laptop, and all is good. Also, the install appeared faster than previous installs/upgrades. I do not make use of ARC yet (to come)




I don't really want to start a big argument, because you are entitled to an opinion. This forum is all about people sharing their knowledge, experience, and helping each other out.


My argument is based on years of studying electrical engineering, and years of designing chips for the networking and computer industry. It is a FACT that there will not be any difference in picture quality, basic laws of physics and math apply here.


I presume sound quality is also better with a more expensive HDMI cable (Dolby 5.1 or PCM sounds better) ? .... nonsense ... but I wont argue any more










Oops. apology to the moderator, I posted this before seeing your message ... no more mention of cables from me.


----------



## misterdoggy

Any Case, This is the age old discussion and there are 2 camps and they will NEVER agree.


I was more interested in which was better not as to better picture or sound quality,


But


Which ones were better for handshaking problems. My French Satellite did not work with HDMI cabling and I had to switch to Component and problem over.


So I was searching for cables that were dependable with the D2.


also I found the D2 harder to please with digital connections than previous processors I have owned ie: Lexicon 12B and McIntosh MX135.


But things are now running well, finally, not thru hdmi though with satellites.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/13518714
> 
> 
> Has anyone yet received the ARC-1 upgrade who ordered through a US dealer?
> 
> Bart



Bart, I already asked that question a couple of pre-cable pages back









ninja, who is in Maryland, was told by his dealer to expect it tomorrow(Tuesday, April 1st).

I'm in Washington and ordered it the day that Jim E. reported that it was available, I have have not heard from my dealer and don't expect to until it is in their hands. This week would be nice tho.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

misterdoggy,

Your french satellite may have a particularly poor implementation of HDMI.


First, in the Anthem, verify that Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO is set as well as Auto Dig = NO. Then, with the french satellite selected as input in the Anthem, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) and verify that Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF is set. These 3 settings simplify the job the set top box has to do when it is establishing the HDMI connection to the Anthem.


Next, go into the menus in the french satellite set-top box itself. There are a number of settings that could be screwed up in there, and of course I can just guess as to the menu structure in there.


Some set top boxes need separate output settings for optical audio cable and HDMI so make sure you are using the menu for its HDMI settings. Some HDMI setups require you to turn on HDMI audio, and distinguish between audio output for stereo program content and for DD5.1 content. Make sure both are on. Make sure you have selected BITSTREAM (vs. PCM) as the type of output for DD5.1 content.


I don't know how your french satellite system transmits audio to your set top box, but some cable TV set top boxes distinguish between digital audio programs and analog audio programs and will only output audio on their digital outputs (HDMI or optical audio cable) for the digital programs. For analog audio programs they will only output audio on their regular RCA stereo analog outputs. And THAT'S what the Anthem's Setup / Source Setup / Auto Dig item is all about. For such a box you hook up both its digital audio AND a stereo RCA analog audio pair and Auto Dig switches between them automatically according to whether or not digital audio is actually present on the digital input at the moment.


So make sure you have turned on all of the HDMI audio output types in your set top box (and again the settings in it for HDMI may be distinct from the settings for its optical digital audio output). And double-check that it is SUPPOSED to be able to output all styles of program audio content over HDMI as opposed to just a subset.


If audio output over optical audio cable is working but HDMI audio is still not working, then look carefully for any settings differences in the french set top box between it's optical output and its HDMI output.


Finally, if your problem is on programs where you are trying to listen to the secondary language audio (SAP audio), then your french set top box may have a limitation that it can't send SAP audio over HDMI or that it has to be turned on specifically for HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13520062
> 
> 
> I had to switch to Component and problem over..



Cable TV boxes and Satellite Boxes here is the U.S. are

also notorious for poor HDMI interface designs. I have

three of them hooked to my D2. I use Component for

all three.


The source material is never more than 1080i and the

audio is old fashion DD over Optical. There is no NEED

or benefit to using HDMI for these sources.


I use HDMI only for sources that need it like Blu-Ray

and HD-DVD which are 1080p and Lossless Audio over

HDMI.


The POST ABOVE THIS ONE FROM BOB - does give you

some checkout steps to getting HDMI to work if possible


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13521032
> 
> 
> Cable TV boxes and Satellite Boxes here is the U.S. are
> 
> also notorious for poor HDMI interface designs. I have
> 
> three of them hooked to my D2. I use Component for
> 
> all three.
> 
> 
> The source material is never more than 1080i and the
> 
> audio is old fashion DD over Optical. There is no NEED
> 
> or benefit to using HDMI for these sources.
> 
> 
> I use HDMI only for sources that need it like Blu-Ray
> 
> and HD-DVD which are 1080p and Lossless Audio over
> 
> HDMI.
> 
> 
> The POST ABOVE THIS ONE FROM BOB - does give you
> 
> some checkout steps to getting HDMI to work if possible



The only reason is HDCP. In the US, this isn't supposed to be in play, but there are some cable systems that seem to randomly set the HDCP required flag. Depending on the cable box, this can result in no signal to the TV over component, or a downgraded (480p) signal to the TV over component.


This seems to mostly happen with cable MSO's that aren't doing what they're supposed to be doing, but the technology is in place to turn this on whenever they want.


HDMI w/ an HDCP compliant TV (and pre-pro/switch) ensures you'll never be "bitten" by this.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13521145
> 
> 
> no signal to the TV over component, .



I'm Thankful for small gifts - that has never happened to me with Component!


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13517039
> 
> 
> I wish I understood why differences exist among digital cables in home theater, but they are there. For that matter, I never really understood why digital components can't be connected by USB, firewire or CAT5. If we can transfer large volumes of lossless data at high bit rates in the PC world...why not use the same technology in home theater?? But I digress...
> 
> 
> One way to look at it is to take the extreme case. Do you really expect identical output from Monster's lowest-end HDMI cable and a $500 exotic HDMI cable? Or even a $25 Monoprice cable? If yes, then I highly suggest you audition different cables for yourself. If no, then we have to agree that it is really not an all-or-nothing proposition and that something is to be gained from a premium cable.
> 
> 
> Afterall, why does Monoprice offer different flavors of HDMI cable at the same length? Should their 28AWG HDMI 1.3a cable at 3ft be expected to perform the same as their "High Quality" 24AWG gold plated HDMI 1.3a cable at 3ft?
> 
> 
> In my testing (which was about a year ago), I concluded the following between a PS3 and D2:
> 
> Monoprice was better than Monster
> Bluejeans was as good or better than Monoprice (really too close to call definitively)
> AudioQuest was better than Bluejeans



I thought we kinda agreed to not debate cables here. Some see a difference others feel obliged to convince them they cannot be. While I fall into the latter group, realistically who am I to tell someone else they cannot be seeing an improvement if they feel they are seeing it. Everyone one wins.


On a side note from another thread someone tried to explain the potential for differences due to the fact what 1's and 0's each have a frequency window they transmit as. While I don't remember it was something like 0's are less than 1 (forget the unit of measure (Hz?) and 1's were from 1-4 or something.


He said that the more accurate the 1's and 0's tracked to their ideal frequency the better the result. For me it still seems like if it's recognized as a 1 it's a one. It either is or isn't and would never be say a 1.5 or 2.


Still it was the only explanation I ever saw that gave any possible theory to it. Whether it is accurate or not I have no idea. Just passing it along.


In any case in the interest of peace maybe any cable debates should go to a cable thread.


Cheers,


Richard


Edit: just saw the other notes asking to move the cable discussion ;-)


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

- Whether data is bitstream or PCM, it requires a clock, and either way clock recovery using a phase locked loop is required.


- Output (DAC) jitter depends on input jitter if the output clock is derived from the input clock, but is independent of input jitter if an asynchronous sample rate converter is used (e.g. D1/D2 archival-quality upsampler).


Once it's established that data, clocks, and jitter go hand in hand, the next question might be, what amount of jitter is audible? The answer depends on the spectral distribution (jitter doesn't have to be random). Somewhere there's a formula.


Pointy-head topics aside - to enjoy lossless audio with an HDMI-in Anthem processor, use a player that decodes Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master Audio and outputs the audio as multichannel PCM.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13517435
> 
> 
> But Bruce warns you he has NO QUEUE



Yeah I emailed after I saw your note and he said that anyone registered with the Forum should have gotten an email or something last Thursday.


I registered for something, but no idea if it was the forum or whatever. Don't remember an email either. I am going to have to go back to the site and check it out I guess.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13520062
> 
> 
> Any Case, This is the age old discussion and there are 2 camps and they will NEVER agree.
> 
> 
> I was more interested in which was better not as to better picture or sound quality,
> 
> 
> But
> 
> 
> Which ones were better for handshaking problems. My French Satellite did not work with HDMI cabling and I had to switch to Component and problem over.
> 
> 
> So I was searching for cables that were dependable with the D2.
> 
> 
> also I found the D2 harder to please with digital connections than previous processors I have owned ie: Lexicon 12B and McIntosh MX135.
> 
> 
> But things are now running well, finally, not thru hdmi though with satellites.



I am afraid that your handshake issues probably have little if anything to do with the cables. If everything else if working with your cables then it's unlikely a cable switch will make a difference.


I have a Bell SAT and never had a drop out. I switch to Rogers Cable and their highest end, recently new into the wild HD PVR drops out (Green screen) for a couple seconds whenever I (change channels, Open the guide or menu etc). There is no excuse for this, but it happens. Nothing else I have has this issue so its the Rogers box. I have seriously considered switching to Component and Optical for that one device since many say at that level of definition there really isn't much if any difference (IE. Bit starved 1080i).


Does Gefen make a HDMI detective like it does the DVI one (DVI-HDMI)?


Have you tried both HDMI Repeater On/Off?


Is your sat box rented an if so does your provider offer other models?


Cheers,


Richard


Edit: need to remember to read to the end before responding hahaa


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13517771
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> I'm feeling less apprehensive. I'm running Vista Home Basic. I don't know if the SP1 would make any difference, but I would hate to give Bill Gates any more of my money. I have the Keyspan on order from Newegg and the ARC-1 on order from Anthem and I'll give it a try when it all gets here.



SP1 is free from Automatic Updates althought it can take 20-60min to run depending on how up to date you are and it will require like 4 reboots. No idea if it had any impact on my D2 update either lol.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PooperScooper* /forum/post/13519425
> 
> 
> Hey guys, please take the cable discussion elsewhere, it's getting out of hand. It really has no bearing on the D2 compared to any other piece of equipment. Thanks.



Apologies to all for the thread detour







. No more on cables...


Both sides have expressed their views, and hopefully the community has benefited from the different perspectives.


----------



## Krops

I occaisonally display my PC through the D2, and before 1.31, I had to reboot the PC before my NVIDIA GeForce 7800 would recognize the D2 as a separate monitor.


The PC is connected to the D2 by a DVI-HDMI adapter, a 50' HDMI cable (Monoprice), an HDMI repeater and finally a 6' HDMI cable from the repeater to the D2.


Until now, I thought the only way for Windows XP to recognize the D2 without rebooting is the Gefen DVI Detective. However since upgrading to 1.31 and installing the latest NVIDIA drivers, I'm able to get my Windows desktop on the D2 without rebooting.


However's there's an extra step. I find I need to run EnTech's PowerStrip and click the "Enable Multiple Monitors" menu item before Windows recognizes the D2 as a second display.


----------



## Shrike645

I just ordered my arc 1 and my dealer said they are in stock and I would probably be able to get it this week. I work just up the road from Anthem so I might be able to pick it up myself and save a bit of time.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13523013
> 
> 
> However's there's an extra step. I find I need to run EnTech's PowerStrip and click the "Enable Multiple Monitors" menu item before Windows recognizes the D2 as a second display.



Sounds like a fair trade to not having to reboot!


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/13522385
> 
> 
> - Whether data is bitstream or PCM, it requires a clock, and either way clock recovery using a phase locked loop is required.
> 
> 
> - Output (DAC) jitter depends on input jitter if the output clock is derived from the input clock, but is independent of input jitter if an asynchronous sample rate converter is used (e.g. D1/D2 archival-quality upsampler).
> 
> 
> Once it's established that data, clocks, and jitter go hand in hand, the next question might be, what amount of jitter is audible? The answer depends on the spectral distribution (jitter doesn't have to be random). Somewhere there's a formula.
> 
> 
> Pointy-head topics aside - to enjoy lossless audio with an HDMI-in Anthem processor, use a player that decodes Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master Audio and outputs the audio as multichannel PCM.



Hey thanks Nick!

I always assumed that the D2 took care of this in the proper way.

Good to have it from the definitive source.

BTW, Have you seen my ARC-1 order?


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13523013
> 
> 
> I occaisonally display my PC through the D2, and before 1.31, I had to reboot the PC before my NVIDIA GeForce 7800 would recognize the D2 as a separate monitor.
> 
> 
> The PC is connected to the D2 by a DVI-HDMI adapter, a 50' HDMI cable (Monoprice), an HDMI repeater and finally a 6' HDMI cable from the repeater to the D2.
> 
> 
> Until now, I thought the only way for Windows XP to recognize the D2 without rebooting is the Gefen DVI Detective. However since upgrading to 1.31 and installing the latest NVIDIA drivers, I'm able to get my Windows desktop on the D2 without rebooting.
> 
> 
> However's there's an extra step. I find I need to run EnTech's PowerStrip and click the "Enable Multiple Monitors" menu item before Windows recognizes the D2 as a second display.



Interesting. I will need to try out my PC direct through the D2 again now and see if it syncs better and if the underscaning is fixed.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/13523061
> 
> 
> I just ordered my arc 1 and my dealer said they are in stock and I would probably be able to get it this week. I work just up the road from Anthem so I might be able to pick it up myself and save a bit of time.



My dealer said that Anthem doesn't allow customer pickups of dealer ordered gear. Makes sense and shouldn't delay anything in any case.


cheers,


Richard


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13523534
> 
> 
> My dealer said that Anthem doesn't allow customer pickups of dealer ordered gear. Makes sense and shouldn't delay anything in any case.
> 
> 
> cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



I picked up my P2 about 2 years ago. Things may have changed.


----------



## [email protected]

Bob,

I recently downloaded the AVM-50 v1.31 software and I wanted to know which setup editor should I be using to save my settings. I did not see v1.31. Secondly, does the "Belt and Suspender Approach to doing the update and install at the beginning of this thread still apply? Thanks in advance.


German


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/13523904
> 
> 
> I picked up my P2 about 2 years ago. Things may have changed.



I called Paradigm CA and they won't talk to anyone but a dealer. Well, the secretaries talked to me, but anyone with actual information blindly repeated "I can only talk to your dealer, not to a customer."


So yes, things probably have changed.


----------



## TREVLAN

I'd like to know, how easy is it to install the software.

I'm not that computer savy , I have read through the belt and suspender post but not to sure.

Should I get my dealer to do this, or do you guys think it can be done with some patience?


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/13524109
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I recently downloaded the AVM-50 v1.31 software and I wanted to know which setup editor should I be using to save my settings. I did not see v1.31. Secondly, does the "Belt and Suspender Approach to doing the update and install at the beginning of this thread still apply? Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> German



German -


There is not a setup editor which works with version 1.31.


From the top of the "Read Me - Upgrades.txt" file included in the release upgrade:



> Quote:
> AVM 50 and STATEMENT D2 SOFTWARE UPDATES
> 
> 
> Installation instructions appear as soon as you double-click on the .exe file. Despite what may have worked with older installers, it is important to follow latest instructions.
> 
> 
> 
> FAQ: Do I need to load previous versions prior to this update?
> 
> 
> A: No.
> 
> 
> FAQ: Are previous changes included in the latest update?
> 
> 
> A: Yes.
> 
> 
> 
> **This update does not retain video processor adjustments if you are updating from v1.02 or older. If you want to retain your settings, save them to computer with Live Video Settings Editor before installing upgrade, then load them from computer to preamp after update.**



If you follow he instructions exactly, you won't have any difficulties.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/13524198
> 
> 
> I'd like to know, how easy is it to install the software.
> 
> I'm not that computer savy , I have read through the belt and suspender post but not to sure.
> 
> Should I get my dealer to do this, or do you guys think it can be done with some patience?



If you are unsure, you should have your dealer perform the upgrade. It will be worth the piece of mind for the small price you pay.


On the other hand, the upgrade is quite simple and the installer walks you through everything you need to do. Computer "savyness" is not required... just the ability to follow directions.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13524188
> 
> 
> I called Paradigm CA and they won't talk to anyone but a dealer. Well, the secretaries talked to me, but anyone with actual information blindly repeated "I can only talk to your dealer, not to a customer."
> 
> 
> So yes, things probably have changed.



My Dealer did order it and he was still checking if I could pick it up.


----------



## TREVLAN

Thx Tim winder. I'm thinking of giving it a go, right now cash is tight that 70 bucks an hour ,prob be 2 hours, just won't work for me.

I could buy alot of diapers with that...lol.

But on the other hand, I don't want to mess up a 5000$ unit, if you know what I mean.

It's almost like working on a car. fix the brakes now or wait long enough and you'll be doing the roters also.


----------



## bool

I just upgraded mine not too long ago and it was no prob. Bought the Keyspan adapter and used my Vista PC and everything is working fine. The only thing I forgot to do was save my video settings. Not a huge problem though.


----------



## Ian_Currie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/13522385
> 
> 
> - Whether data is bitstream or PCM, it requires a clock, and either way clock recovery using a phase locked loop is required.
> 
> 
> - Output (DAC) jitter depends on input jitter if the output clock is derived from the input clock, but is independent of input jitter if an asynchronous sample rate converter is used (e.g. D1/D2 archival-quality upsampler).
> 
> 
> Once it's established that data, clocks, and jitter go hand in hand, the next question might be, what amount of jitter is audible? The answer depends on the spectral distribution (jitter doesn't have to be random). Somewhere there's a formula.
> 
> 
> Pointy-head topics aside - to enjoy lossless audio with an HDMI-in Anthem processor, use a player that decodes Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master Audio and outputs the audio as multichannel PCM.




Does anyone know if such a player is on the market yet? I know the PS3 and Samsung BD30 don't do this....


----------



## scottshd

TREVLAN I see Tim has already answered you and I agree it is very easy just follow directions I'm not very computer savy either. I didn't use setup editor I just re entered my settings manually everything went fine. I used keyspan usb to serial adapter windows xp


----------



## Philip Brandes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TiVolution* /forum/post/13460725
> 
> 
> Apparently, the issue is on Apple's side so Anthem cannot fix it and it is not clear if Apple will do anything about it. Fortunately, you won't be missing anything since component/optical work fine for the A/V output capability of the AppleTV. That is how most people use it with the Anthem.



Who says the problem is on Apple's side? Let me guess...Anthem?


I've been using HDMI from my AppleTV to my Lexicon MC-12HD for the past six months and it has worked flawlessly. i have not read of any other HDMI-related issues with the AppleTV.


Cheers,

Philip Brandes


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13520616
> 
> 
> misterdoggy,
> 
> Your french satellite may have a particularly poor implementation of HDMI.
> 
> 
> First, in the Anthem, verify that Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Repeater = NO is set as well as Auto Dig = NO. Then, with the french satellite selected as input in the Anthem, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) and verify that Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF is set. These 3 settings simplify the job the set top box has to do when it is establishing the HDMI connection to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Next, go into the menus in the french satellite set-top box itself. There are a number of settings that could be screwed up in there, and of course I can just guess as to the menu structure in there.
> 
> 
> Some set top boxes need separate output settings for optical audio cable and HDMI so make sure you are using the menu for its HDMI settings. Some HDMI setups require you to turn on HDMI audio, and distinguish between audio output for stereo program content and for DD5.1 content. Make sure both are on. Make sure you have selected BITSTREAM (vs. PCM) as the type of output for DD5.1 content.
> 
> 
> I don't know how your french satellite system transmits audio to your set top box, but some cable TV set top boxes distinguish between digital audio programs and analog audio programs and will only output audio on their digital outputs (HDMI or optical audio cable) for the digital programs. For analog audio programs they will only output audio on their regular RCA stereo analog outputs. And THAT'S what the Anthem's Setup / Source Setup / Auto Dig item is all about. For such a box you hook up both its digital audio AND a stereo RCA analog audio pair and Auto Dig switches between them automatically according to whether or not digital audio is actually present on the digital input at the moment.
> 
> 
> So make sure you have turned on all of the HDMI audio output types in your set top box (and again the settings in it for HDMI may be distinct from the settings for its optical digital audio output). And double-check that it is SUPPOSED to be able to output all styles of program audio content over HDMI as opposed to just a subset.
> 
> 
> If audio output over optical audio cable is working but HDMI audio is still not working, then look carefully for any settings differences in the french set top box between it's optical output and its HDMI output.
> 
> 
> Finally, if your problem is on programs where you are trying to listen to the secondary language audio (SAP audio), then your french set top box may have a limitation that it can't send SAP audio over HDMI or that it has to be turned on specifically for HDMI.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I think I have done all that already but will run thru the list again.


thanks so much for taking the time to write all that. Fortunately the Component connection is consistently working andthe image is great and being upscaled so .......


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13522606
> 
> 
> I am afraid that your handshake issues probably have little if anything to do with the cables. If everything else if working with your cables then it's unlikely a cable switch will make a difference.
> 
> 
> I have a Bell SAT and never had a drop out. I switch to Rogers Cable and their highest end, recently new into the wild HD PVR drops out (Green screen) for a couple seconds whenever I (change channels, Open the guide or menu etc). There is no excuse for this, but it happens. Nothing else I have has this issue so its the Rogers box. I have seriously considered switching to Component and Optical for that one device since many say at that level of definition there really isn't much if any difference (IE. Bit starved 1080i).
> 
> 
> Does Gefen make a HDMI detective like it does the DVI one (DVI-HDMI)?
> 
> 
> Have you tried both HDMI Repeater On/Off?
> 
> 
> Is your sat box rented an if so does your provider offer other models?
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> Edit: need to remember to read to the end before responding hahaa



Richard,


Thanks for the advice. Yeah I tried repeater on and off. Its a handshaking problem and I've pretty much exhausted all the possibilities (and myself) and will be perfectly happy with the system now.


I switched to another box offered by the SAtellite company and it offered component which the first one did not. Lucky result also was the coax audio problems I was having went away as well.


So Component upscaling is where it is and thats ok.


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/13524198
> 
> 
> I'd like to know, how easy is it to install the software.
> 
> I'm not that computer savy , I have read through the belt and suspender post but not to sure.
> 
> Should I get my dealer to do this, or do you guys think it can be done with some patience?



Its not that hard and if you do it during work hours you can always call anthem to help walk you thru any problems.


In any case you risk nothing as the software won't load unless it recognizes the connection to the processor. First it recognizes the processor, by checking the serial number etc, then it checks your download to make sure everything is there.


Then its automatic. It tells you exactly what to do and does it.


----------



## TREVLAN

thx guys, i will give it a go this weekend. it wont be during work hours so Anthem can't help me but hey, I got you guys for that.









Honestly this is the best thread i have ever been in, ever.

Thanks to everyone for this.


So to run it off again.

I need a laptop

I need a "keyspan usb to serial adapter"?

and ofcourse the 1.31 software which I can get off Anthems site.

Then, read "belt and suspenders" about 100 times and away I go.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/13524714
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if such a player is on the market yet? I know the PS3 and Samsung BD30 don't do this....



The PS3 decodes Dolby TrueHD and outputs it as LPCM over HDMI. It is expected that a future firmware upgrade will add DTS-MA decoding as well.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Talk about leapfrogging the competition! Several European web sites have leaked today that Anthem's long anticipated replacement to the D2 (model number not revealed, but presumably "D3.141592") will switch all the way to HDMI 4.1! No availability dates are given:

http://www.tienda-facil.com/Switch-H...41__32975.html 

http://www.bodo.se/p214769_hdmi_swit...r_hdmi_4_1.htm 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'll probably be doing my V1.31 upgrade later today or tomorrow. The "Belt & Suspenders" upgrade post assumed availability of a "Setup Editor" which does not yet exist for V1.31. I suspect Live Video Settings Editor will ONLY save your Video Source Adjust menu settings (not the Setup menu settings), but we'll see. Of course you do want to follow the instructions and use Live Video Settings Editor to save those video settings.


It is likely the Setup menu settings will be preserved through the upgrade via a Save and later Restore of User Settings within the D2 itself. So only the Video Source Adjust settings need to be saved and restored from the PC.


Nevertheless, I think it is worth the hour or so it takes to go through the menus and jot down all the settings you can't simply remember just in case something goes very wrong and Anthem has to reset everything back to scratch to fix things. At the very least you can use such notes to double-check, after the upgrade, that all your settings really did get restored the way you want.

--Bob


----------



## xp800

I sold my D2 about a year ago when I moved, but I have ordered an new ARC D2 in anticipation of me completing my new movie room. But I digress.


I am helping a friend make some choices for his room, and while I have been touting the Anthem's prowess, he has a unique need: image shrink/underscan.


His wife actually can get motion sickness from a large projected image. He’s looking at a 92” AT screen, but wants to be able to make it 60-72” when his wife is watching. The idea of an electric screen + flat panel behind it has been considered and dismissed for now.


It could be done using a projector's zoom lens, and moderately simple if it was powered, just so long as the PJ was at a fairly close/wide angle location. Then zooming out shrinks the image while retaining full resolution; maybe focus needs tweaking.


The big downside to this approach is lack of automation.


In other words, can the D2/AVM50 shrink the image by a fixed percent in the vertical and horizontal direction so that it does NOT fill the full panel resolution and without cropping the image itself? There would be blanked pixels around the borders, so the image itself loses resolution but not content. Call it BIG underscan.


I contacted Anchor Bay, and both the VP30 and VP50 have an output function called Underscan exactly for this.


It comes down to the ability to automate the function somehow rather than adjusting the lens each time. And it makes the Anthem a leading candidate.


Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xp800* /forum/post/13527293
> 
> 
> I sold my D2 about a year ago when I moved, but I have ordered an new ARC D2 in anticipation of me completing my new movie room. But I digress.
> 
> 
> I am helping a friend make some choices for his room, and while I have been touting the Anthem's prowess, he has a unique need: image shrink/underscan.
> 
> 
> His wife actually can get motion sickness from a large projected image. He's looking at a 92 AT screen, but wants to be able to make it 60-72 when his wife is watching. The idea of an electric screen + flat panel behind it has been considered and dismissed for now.
> 
> 
> It could be done using a projector's zoom lens, and moderately simple if it was powered, just so long as the PJ was at a fairly close/wide angle location. Then zooming out shrinks the image while retaining full resolution; maybe focus needs tweaking.
> 
> 
> The big downside to this approach is lack of automation.
> 
> 
> In other words, can the D2/AVM50 shrink the image by a fixed percent in the vertical and horizontal direction so that it does NOT fill the full panel resolution and without cropping the image itself? There would be blanked pixels around the borders, so the image itself loses resolution but not content. Call it BIG underscan.
> 
> 
> I contacted Anchor Bay, and both the VP30 and VP50 have an output function called Underscan exactly for this.
> 
> 
> It comes down to the ability to automate the function somehow rather than adjusting the lens each time. And it makes the Anthem a leading candidate.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



XP800, I don't believe there is a way to do this with the Anthem. It has been requested a few times by folks with CIH screen setups who don't want to switch out the anamorphic lens when watching normal 4:3 or 16:9 content (i.e., squeeze those so they look "right" when widened by the lens), but as Anthem rightly points out, doing that is equivalent to throwing away resolution.


I suspect the Gennum chip can actually do this, so perhaps it will be added in a future D2 software release. You might want to email to Anthem tech support to get it put on a future features list.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13526997
> 
> 
> Talk about leapfrogging the competition! Several European web sites have leaked today that Anthem's long anticipated replacement to the D2 (model number not revealed, but presumably "D3.141592") will switch all the way to HDMI 4.1! No availability dates are given:
> 
> http://www.tienda-facil.com/Switch-H...41__32975.html
> 
> http://www.bodo.se/p214769_hdmi_swit...r_hdmi_4_1.htm
> 
> 
> --Bob




Ah. My favorite day of the year.


----------



## xp800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13527430
> 
> 
> XP800, I don't believe there is a way to do this with the Anthem. It has been requested a few times by folks with CIH screen setups who don't want to switch out the anamorphic lens when watching normal 4:3 or 16:9 content (i.e., squeeze those so they look "right" when widened by the lens), but as Anthem rightly points out, doing that is equivalent to throwing away resolution.
> 
> 
> I suspect the Gennum chip can actually do this, so perhaps it will be added in a future D2 software release. You might want to email to Anthem tech support to get it put on a future features list.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks for the fast reply. I suspected this was the case based on my search of this thread (mostly your posts







) and my recollection of the video input/output settings.


I have emailed Nick quite a number of times over the years of my Anthem ownership (since the AVM20) and met him at CEDIA a couple years ago, so I'll send him a note on this.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/13526558
> 
> 
> thx guys, i will give it a go this weekend. it wont be during work hours so Anthem can't help me but hey, I got you guys for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly this is the best thread i have ever been in, ever.
> 
> Thanks to everyone for this.
> 
> 
> So to run it off again.
> 
> I need a laptop
> 
> I need a "keyspan usb to serial adapter"?
> 
> and ofcourse the 1.31 software which I can get off Anthems site.
> 
> Then, read "belt and suspenders" about 100 times and away I go.



You don't have to have a laptop and you don't have to have a keyspan usb to serial adapter.


You need a computer running Windows with a serial port. That can be a desktop or a laptop. If your computer does not have a serial port, the keyspan usb to serial adapter has worked flawlessly for many members here.


Download the software now. Run the D2 v1.31.exe file now. It won't do anything until you tell it to go. And if it's not connected to the D2 it can't do anything anyway. But, what it will do it present you with the exact step-by-step instructions on how to do the upgrade. Read through that so you feel comfortable with what the upgrade entails.


If you haven't made any custom video changes, you don't have to worry about the Live Video Editor. if you have, then you'll want to use the Live Video editor to save your current settings to your PC which you will then load back to the D2. If you don't want to do that, you can enter the settings again manually.


All other settings will be saved with the Save user settings options. if you wish to do as Bob suggests and go through every menu option and write it all down, that is fine. It's probably not a bad idea to have it hard documented anyway.



> Quote:
> Fortunately I keep my feathers numbers for just such an emergency. - Foghorn Leghorn



I think once you read the step by step instructions, you won't feel so overwhelmed.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13526997
> 
> 
> Talk about leapfrogging the competition! Several European web sites have leaked today that Anthem's long anticipated replacement to the D2 (model number not revealed, but presumably "D3.141592") will switch all the way to HDMI 4.1! No availability dates are given:
> 
> http://www.tienda-facil.com/Switch-H...41__32975.html
> 
> http://www.bodo.se/p214769_hdmi_swit...r_hdmi_4_1.htm
> 
> 
> --Bob




Ah yes, the D3 Pi model, that's the one I'm waiting for.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13527037
> 
> 
> I suspect Live Video Settings Editor will ONLY save your Video Source Adjust menu settings (not the Setup menu settings), but we'll see. Of course you do want to follow the instructions and use Live Video Settings Editor to save those video settings.
> 
> 
> It is likely the Setup menu settings will be preserved through the upgrade via a Save and later Restore of User Settings within the D2 itself. So only the Video Source Adjust settings need to be saved and restored from the PC.
> 
> --Bob



Having done many upgrades, I can confirm that Live Video settings only saves video source adjustment settings and NOT setup menu settings - for setup menu settings you need to save user settings in the D2 and restore after the upgrade. Settings saved at least from 1.21d were fine when I upgraded to 1.31 (going backward does not work so well).


----------



## thebland

I was just at Gramophone this week loking at the Denon 3800 BD.


It was hooked up to an Anthem D2.


Long story short, in going in to the speaker set up menu (when LPCM engaged over HDMI for audio), the rear speaker controls were grayed out and unable to be accessed. It struck me as an audio EDID issue as I am sure the Denon supports 7.1 LPCM output. If so, then the Anthem is not a 7.1 machine.. True?


1. Does the Anthem D2 support 7.2 channel output?

2. Is the Anthem D2 able to accept 7.1 LPCM

2. Can the Anthem D2 accept 5.1 LPCM and matrix the rear channels for 7.1 outputs?


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/13528548
> 
> 
> I was just at Gramophone this week loking at the Denon 3800 BD.
> 
> 
> It was hooked up to an Anthem D2.
> 
> 
> Long story short, in going in to the speaker set up menu (when LPCM engaged over HDMI for audio), the rear speaker controls were grayed out and unable to be accessed. It struck me as an audio EDID issue as I am sure the Denon supports 7.1 LPCM output. If so, then the Anthem is not a 7.1 machine.. True?
> 
> 
> 1. Does the Anthem D2 support 7.2 channel output?
> 
> 2. Is the Anthem D2 able to accept 7.1 LPCM
> 
> 2. Can the Anthem D2 accept 5.1 LPCM and matrix the rear channels for 7.1 outputs?




1. Yes. The anthem has 4 LFE outputs, however, they are all share the same output options.

2. No. The D2 supports a maximum of 5.1 input from either analog or digital sources.

3. Yes. The anthem supports both DLPIIx as well as proprietary Anthem logic for 7.1 output capabilities.


----------



## TiVolution




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Philip Brandes* /forum/post/13525849
> 
> 
> Who says the problem is on Apple's side? Let me guess...Anthem?
> 
> 
> I've been using HDMI from my AppleTV to my Lexicon MC-12HD for the past six months and it has worked flawlessly. i have not read of any other HDMI-related issues with the AppleTV.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Philip Brandes



Fair point. Glad yours is working flawlessly with your Lexicon. Mine works when direct connected to my TV via HDMI. However, it fails via HDMI to the Anthem. Not sure whose fault it is (Anthem's or Apple's) but have only heard it reported as an Apple issue and never an Anthem issue. But, in the end I really cannot verify that. Regardless, besides less cable clutter, there doesn't appear to be an advantage of using HDMI for the AppleTV.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/13526558
> 
> 
> thx guys, i will give it a go this weekend. it wont be during work hours so Anthem can't help me but hey, I got you guys for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly this is the best thread i have ever been in, ever.
> 
> Thanks to everyone for this.
> 
> 
> So to run it off again.
> 
> I need a laptop
> 
> I need a "keyspan usb to serial adapter"?
> 
> and ofcourse the 1.31 software which I can get off Anthems site.
> 
> Then, read "belt and suspenders" about 100 times and away I go.



The specific Keyspan USB -> Serial adapter I used (and was recommended to me by others here) is the Keyspan USA-19HS. That one works for sure. I figure others will as well, but wasn't taking any chances lol.


Also when I emailed Nick he said that IOGEAR adapters were pretty good also. Those are the two models they recommend so if you cannot find a Keyspan then maybe a good IOGEAR one. His cautions was basically to stay away from the cheap ones (I Guess


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13527037
> 
> 
> I'll probably be doing my V1.31 upgrade later today or tomorrow. The "Belt & Suspenders" upgrade post assumed availability of a "Setup Editor" which does not yet exist for V1.31. I suspect Live Video Settings Editor will ONLY save your Video Source Adjust menu settings (not the Setup menu settings), but we'll see. Of course you do want to follow the instructions and use Live Video Settings Editor to save those video settings.
> 
> 
> It is likely the Setup menu settings will be preserved through the upgrade via a Save and later Restore of User Settings within the D2 itself. So only the Video Source Adjust settings need to be saved and restored from the PC.
> 
> 
> Nevertheless, I think it is worth the hour or so it takes to go through the menus and jot down all the settings you can't simply remember just in case something goes very wrong and Anthem has to reset everything back to scratch to fix things. At the very least you can use such notes to double-check, after the upgrade, that all your settings really did get restored the way you want.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, What you describe is what I did. Saved my settings, Restored factory defaults. After the upgrade, I restored factory defaults, then my restored settings. I also did the before and after for the Live Video Settings Editor.


It all worked great. That said, maybe better safe than sorry hahaa.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Tim Winders

My ARC-1 is on the way! My ARC-1 is on the way! I should have it Thursday. Wu hoo!


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13529477
> 
> 
> My ARC-1 is on the way! My ARC-1 is on the way! I should have it Thursday. Wu hoo!




Hahaa Gratz. Guess Anthem is really pumping them out or else "W" was moved up in the alphabet when I wasn't looking.


Awe heck as I am sure you all know here by now spelling and the alphabet were never my strong points anyway










Cheers,


Richard


PS. Just finished hanging my drapes (then replacing the clips to hooks so then don't pull loose any more). I got a large uneven surfaced area rug and a wall hanging behind the listening position. Will be rerunning ARC-1 again to see what it thinks of the new area.


----------



## Rayjr

 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=624


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13529563
> 
> 
> Hahaa Gratz. Guess Anthem is really pumping them out or else "W" was moved up in the alphabet when I wasn't looking.



My 3rd grade art teacher, Mr. White, was alway tired of being last in line. So, he always lines up his students in reverse alphabetical order. It was great being towards the front of the line one period a day.


Perhaps he works for Anthem now?


----------



## xp800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13527430
> 
> 
> XP800, I don't believe there is a way to do this with the Anthem. It has been requested a few times by folks with CIH screen setups who don't want to switch out the anamorphic lens when watching normal 4:3 or 16:9 content (i.e., squeeze those so they look "right" when widened by the lens), but as Anthem rightly points out, doing that is equivalent to throwing away resolution.
> 
> 
> I suspect the Gennum chip can actually do this, so perhaps it will be added in a future D2 software release. You might want to email to Anthem tech support to get it put on a future features list.
> 
> --Bob



FYI, I sent this question off to Nick as well, and this was his reply. It seems there is a way that just might work given that PJ is TBD, and can be spec'd as necesary:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since there's no stock underscan algorithm in the Gennum, the only thing I can think of besides spending a lot of time creating one would work if the projector's native res is 1080p and has 1:1 pixel (aka dot by dot) mode:
> 
> 
> - Set projector to 1:1 mode (this should be done wherever possible regardless of situation).
> 
> 
> - In menu 1, set video out config 1 to 1080p and video out config 2 to 720p
> 
> 
> - Use config 2 to watch shrunken image. Video config is assignable by source, or can be changed on the fly by pressing and holding Mode, pressing it again, then using up/down arrows.
> 
> 
> So as you probably figured, on a 1920x1080 canvas only the middle 1280x720 pixels would have an image which means the size works out nicely. An underscan function would behave no differently except that it would be adjustable. I doubt the resolution reduction would be noticeable - if she's close enough to the screen to make out each pixel, she's well into motion sickness territory again.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rayjr* /forum/post/13529571
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=624



And he's got the D2 listed in the classified section now. Perhaps someone here will buy it for their bedroom setup.










Wonder if he'll change his handle now?


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13529611
> 
> 
> And he's got the D2 listed in the classified section now. Perhaps someone here will buy it for their bedroom setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonder if he'll change his handle now?



Its funny, he listened to it with Wilson Speakers and Mark Levinson Amps.


I had the almost the same setup with lexicon mc12B (same thing without hdmi) and Mark Levinson 436's with B&W 802D's and it was not that great.


In fact neither is the D2 that great as a Stereo Preamplifier. Neither are great, but the Lexicon is better.


Having a dedicated Preamp for Stereo will always be better than running stereo thru your processor.


The D2 is great for HT and personally I did not think (for HT) that the Lexicon was better. The only thing I liked more about Lexicon was its L7 proprietary sound even better than PLII.


Definitely not worth a penny more IMHO ??


----------



## scottshd

My anthem dealer called this morning and my arc-1 is in. Only trouble is I'll be on the road for a few days hopefully I'll be able to get in to pick it up this weekend. I'm from the states upper peninsula of michigan. scott


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xp800* /forum/post/13527293
> 
> 
> I sold my D2 about a year ago when I moved, but I have ordered an new ARC D2 in anticipation of me completing my new movie room. But I digress.
> 
> 
> I am helping a friend make some choices for his room, and while I have been touting the Anthem's prowess, he has a unique need: image shrink/underscan.
> 
> 
> His wife actually can get motion sickness from a large projected image. He's looking at a 92 AT screen, but wants to be able to make it 60-72 when his wife is watching. The idea of an electric screen + flat panel behind it has been considered and dismissed for now.
> 
> 
> It could be done using a projector's zoom lens, and moderately simple if it was powered, just so long as the PJ was at a fairly close/wide angle location. Then zooming out shrinks the image while retaining full resolution; maybe focus needs tweaking.
> 
> 
> The big downside to this approach is lack of automation.
> 
> 
> In other words, can the D2/AVM50 shrink the image by a fixed percent in the vertical and horizontal direction so that it does NOT fill the full panel resolution and without cropping the image itself? There would be blanked pixels around the borders, so the image itself loses resolution but not content. Call it BIG underscan.
> 
> 
> I contacted Anchor Bay, and both the VP30 and VP50 have an output function called Underscan exactly for this.
> 
> 
> It comes down to the ability to automate the function somehow rather than adjusting the lens each time. And it makes the Anthem a leading candidate.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Maybe they should reconsider the electric screen plus flat panel behind it. I don't know their room considerations, but that same setup has worked very well for us. In fact, I think an electric AT (audio transparent) screen is ideal for this situation, as you can drop the electric screen down in front of your center channel and L+R speakers as well, and this really anchors the sound to the action on the screen.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

My dealer called also and the ARC is in his hands, the problem is I am 150 miles away and should have by this weekend by UPS.


----------



## misterdoggy

I put on "no country for old men" and the sound selected was uncompressed but I did not have an image until I changed from 1080p 24 to 1080p 60


I have a sony Bravia 1080p capable.


When the BLuRay player was loading 1080p 24 I saw the loading like the way a windows file loads, but nothing happened. then I went to 1080p 60 and it loaded with a logo saying loading which seemed proper.


does this mean that my Sony Bravia is not 1080p 24 compatible and that I should set my blu-ray player to default 1080p 60 ??


----------



## shah993

Billatlakegeorge,

Can you tell me the name of your dealer if you dont mind.I am in Malone which is about 100 miles north of you.My dealer is in Montreal QC.With the dropping US dollar I was thinking may be it would be cheaper for me to try a US dealer.

Thanks


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/13531017
> 
> 
> With the dropping US dollar...


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13530075
> 
> 
> Its funny, he listened to it with Wilson Speakers and Mark Levinson Amps.
> 
> 
> I had the almost the same setup with lexicon mc12B (same thing without hdmi) and Mark Levinson 436's with B&W 802D's and it was not that great.
> 
> 
> In fact neither is the D2 that great as a Stereo Preamplifier. Neither are great, but the Lexicon is better.
> 
> 
> Having a dedicated Preamp for Stereo will always be better than running stereo thru your processor.
> 
> 
> The D2 is great for HT and personally I did not think (for HT) that the Lexicon was better. The only thing I liked more about Lexicon was its L7 proprietary sound even better than PLII.
> 
> 
> Definitely not worth a penny more IMHO ??



I had a Lexicon MC-12 and I bought and replaced it with an Anthem D2 and both my wife and I think it sounds better with home theater and with two channel music.

My good friend Paul also thinks so, and he sold Audio/Video for 17 years. It may be just the way it matches up with your speakers amp and interconnects.

But I have a decent ear and no way is the Lexicon better. It also costs twice as much. But dealers are very good at making people feel insecure about what they have. I have a friend who is a dealer and he sells, Lexicon, Anthem, and Theta. He said Anthem sounded better than Lexicon.(that was off the record opinion, he doesn't want to hurt his Lexicon sales)

Everyone has an opinion. But if I felt the D2 didn't sound at least as good as the Lexicon it would of went back to the dealer.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13530959
> 
> 
> I put on "no country for old men" and the sound selected was uncompressed but I did not have an image until I changed from 1080p 24 to 1080p 60
> 
> 
> I have a sony Bravia 1080p capable.
> 
> 
> When the BLuRay player was loading 1080p 24 I saw the loading like the way a windows file loads, but nothing happened. then I went to 1080p 60 and it loaded with a logo saying loading which seemed proper.
> 
> 
> does this mean that my Sony Bravia is not 1080p 24 compatible and that I should set my blu-ray player to default 1080p 60 ??



Try this. Leave your BR player outputting 1080p/24 (Native disk resolution) and using the D2 Video configurations, have one at 1080p/24 and one at 1080p/60. (Use Configs 3 & 4 if they are not in use and you don't want to mess with any you already may have set up if need be).


Start the movie and go into the D2 setup menu > Video Output and try each. If the /60 works and the /24 doesn't then your projector probably doesn't accept /24.


In either case once you figure it out, send the 1080p/24 (native Rez) to your D2 and let the D2 do the scaling. My HP Pavillion MD658N (or something like that) doesn't accept /24 either so this is how I set it up and its amazing.


As a few general rules (for me anyway):

If you can send the D2 the native rez, do so and if needed let the D2 do any scaling, deinterlacing or whatever.

If the source is interlaced (like SD DVD, My SAT box, My cable Box) again choose native or at least one of the xxxxI/xx (Interlaced Options) and let the D2 again do the processing up to 1080p/60.


Cheers,


Richard



Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13531249
> 
> 
> I had a Lexicon MC-12 and I bought and replaced it with an Anthem D2 and both my wife and I think it sounds better with home theater and with two channel music.
> 
> My good friend Paul also thinks so, and he sold Audio/Video for 17 years. It may be just the way it matches up with your speakers amp and interconnects.
> 
> But I have a decent ear and no way is the Lexicon better. It also costs twice as much. But dealers are very good at making people feel insecure about what they have. I have a friend who is a dealer and he sells, Lexicon, Anthem, and Theta. He said Anthem sounded better than Lexicon.(that was off the record opinion, he doesn't want to hurt his Lexicon sales)
> 
> Everyone has an opinion. But if I felt the D2 didn't sound at least as good as the Lexicon it would of went back to the dealer.




It's all about making each of us feel better in our purchase decision. I'm not going to explain what I had before (it's here somewhere if anyone cares to dig) and what I think now (ditto).


My family and all our guests are amazed at how well it all sounds and looks. With the Harmony 880 remote, everyone can operate the system.


Would something else sound and look better? Would it be easier to operate? I'm sure there is something. I'm sure one day I will upgrade. My Home Theater is a continually evolving beast. I've gone for 3 years without any changes. I've made changes every few months. Mostly, I try to enjoy what we have at the moment. Isn't that what counts and why we're doing this? Actually USING the system and not trying to "one up" everyone else?


Well, that's why *I'M* doing this.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13531082



Yeah your dollar dropping isn't helping anyone. I live in Canada and while your dollar drops, your feel the pain, we lose exports to you and out prices haven't gone down either lol










For example our dollars have been pretty darn close for at least a year now and a hard cover book that costs $20 in the US still costs me $30 CDN here. WTF? How stupid do they think I am? No way a new release is burning through year old inventory lol.


It's so stupid one car company recently had a "sales special" where they adjusted prices due to the Canadian Dollar rising... HELLO, why is this special and why hasn't it happened 6-9 months ago. Maybe the PDI/Shipping stays the same or goes up do to exchange, but the car should be like 15-20% less that what it cost 2-3 years ago (yadda yadda inflation adjusted, but you get the point).


It used to cost me $1 CDN to get about $0.70-0.80 USD not too long ago. Someone if pocketing that exchange diff and it sure isn't any of us consumers on either side of the border.


It's like all of a sudden the Gas companies are running the exchange rates and following their rules/explanations:

Price per barrel goes up today, price at the pumps goes up tomorrow (Warp speed supply chain obviously).

Price per barrel goes down today, price at the pumps stays high "until we run throught the crude in the (not warp speed anymore) supply chain in a couple weeks)

Strangely enough EVERY Gas supplier has the exact same supply chain cycle as the price at the pumps is always within a penny here.

Don't even get me started on how they jacked prices (To ensure adequate supply) and made a fortune off the dreadfull hurricain hit in New Orleans.


OK, wow, that got slightly off target hahaa. Yeah ummm exchange rate bad.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13531353
> 
> 
> It's all about making each of us feel better in our purchase decision. I'm not going to explain what I had before (it's here somewhere if anyone cares to dig) and what I think now (ditto).



Plus dealers want to make you feel what you have isn't as good, so you'll part with your money.







So you just have to be careful. You can spend a lot more and get nothing more. But it's a fun hobby and I really enjoy it and I enjoy doing upgrades from time to time. It's all part of what makes it fun. Striving for a little better sound and picture and that little extra thrill.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well folks, right now I'm not a happy camper. All April foolishness aside, V1.31, isn't working right for me.


The main problem is that the Video Source Adjust menu settings don't survive a power off/on cycle. Everything in the Video Source Adjust menu, for all inputs, appears to go back to factory defaults.


----------------------------------------------------------------


I first attempted to use a Keyspan 19hs USB/Serial adapter with Windows XP running on the Parallels environment on a Macintosh MacBook laptop. Neither the 3.4 driver that shipped with the adapter (purchased direct from Keyspan) nor the 3.7s driver which is the latest one downloadable from their web site allowed Live Video Settings Editor to find the D2.


I then went to plan B and used Windows 2000 on my old laptop with a real serial port. The saving of Video Source Adjust settings via Live Video Settings Editor worked fine.


The upgrade to V1.31 also worked fine -- following all the instructions it displays of course. No error messages, complaints or oddness at all during the upgrade.


After Restore User Setting and loading the Video Source Adjust menu stuff back via Live Video Settings Editor and the power cycle required by the upgrade instructions, I went to test things.


First thing I found was that the Video Source Adjust menu items were not restored. So I did that again via Live Video Settings Editor. Then I went through and carefully checked all the Setup settings and the Video Source Adjust settings -- all Correct.


Unfortunately the Video Source Adjust settings don't STAY set that way through a power cycle with the remote -- back panel switch left on.


I can reload them from the Windows 2000 PC just fine, and they stay good through source changes, but vanish again after a power cycle.


------------------------------------------


It also appears that the HDMI handshake with my Comcast HD-DVR cable box is quite a bit worse. Static flashing, HDCP errors, pink screen. It does eventually lock in and stays locked once it is locked in, but apparently it is doing something bad enough that the Comcast box tries changing its video output settings in response. In particular it shifts from a 16:9 output to 4:3 Letterbox output. It DOSN'T go to RGB 480p output, which is its ultimate fallback -- something that it used to do back in the V1.06 days.


But it is not as clean a handshake as what I could get with V1.11.


Anyway, Anthem is closed right now of course, so I'll have to try to reach them tomorrow.


The Comcast thing could be resolved by using Component cables, but I hate to see backwards progress from Anthem on this. The Video Source Adjust menu stuff has to be fixed.


------------------------------------------


I still need to check video and audio calibration to see if anything got messed up by the upgrade. A quick visual check looks good, but it needs to be tested properly.


No ARC yet, so all of this is just the V1.31 upgrade. Unfortunately my laptop is only Windows 2000, so I'll have to figure out how to get the USB/Serial working before I can do ARC. I'll try the Bootcamp (native hardware boot) method of running XP on that Mac hardware.

--Bob


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13530959
> 
> 
> I put on "no country for old men" and the sound selected was uncompressed but I did not have an image until I changed from 1080p 24 to 1080p 60
> 
> 
> I have a sony Bravia 1080p capable.
> 
> 
> When the BLuRay player was loading 1080p 24 I saw the loading like the way a windows file loads, but nothing happened. then I went to 1080p 60 and it loaded with a logo saying loading which seemed proper.
> 
> 
> does this mean that my Sony Bravia is not 1080p 24 compatible and that I should set my blu-ray player to default 1080p 60 ??



Hi,


Can you clarify whether it's the D2 or the blu-ray that's configured for 1080p24 out? What is the video output mode of the D2 and the blu-ray player?


If your TV is 1080p24 capable, you want to set both the player and the D2 for 1080p24. You can setup 2 video output modes in the video output setup menu of the D2. Setup Video1 for 1080p60 (to be used with 1080i, 480i/p sources), and setup Video2 for 1080p24. Assign the blu-ray player to Video2, and all other sources to Video1.


If you are unsure whether the TV supports 1080p24, try connecting the blu-ray player directly to check. The sony blu-ray player should be in "source direct" output mode if used with the D2.


Ryan


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13532553
> 
> 
> Well folks, right now I'm not a happy camper. All April foolishness aside, V1.31, isn't working right for me.



Bob - I can't help you with the Mac issue. Although, do report back on bootcamp vs. parallels. I currently use an HP laptop, but have a MacBook Pro I was planning to switch to.


As for the video source adjust. Can you give me the exact steps that you do on the Anthem or remote to adjust a source, then what you do to get it to revert to defaults?


I just tried to go into the onscreen menu for TV-1 input, change one setting, exit out of the menu, turn off the D2, turn it back on, check the setting and it was still the same as I had changed it.


So, I want to make sure I am changing the same thing you are changing to see if I can reproduce the problem you are seeing.


Can't help with the HDMI handshaking either. I have left my TivoHD with HDMI connection on fixed 1080i output and don't have handshaking issues. I haven't tried to go back to Native output from the Tivo (and don't see a need to do so either).


----------



## bcljones

My dealer called today and said that I had a present, and that it was not an April Fool's joke. I dropped by after work and picked up my ARC-1. I'll start working on upgrading my firmware from 1.12s to 1.31 so that I can use the ARC-1 system.


Buddy


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More info on my problem with Video Source Adjust menu resetting to defaults on each power up:


I tried installing the firmware again. Once again it went through without complaint. However the Video Source Adjust menu still resets on each power cycle.


Prior to doing the upgrade I had done a Save User Settings and a Save Installer Settings. After completing the upgrade and verifying all the menu items were correct (including changing each input to use Video Configuration 1 explicitly), I did a Save User Settings. So User Settings are post V1.31 and Installer Settings were last saved under V1.11.


I've found that if I do a Load User Settings after a power up I get back my Video Source Adjust menu settings. However they go back to defaults on the next power cycle.


Note that the Setup menu items are preserved just fine over power cycles as best I can see.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rayjr* /forum/post/13529571
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=624



I think its unfair to compare the MC12HD with a D2 without ARC1 configured in. I am almost sure the auto eq function on the MC12 is engaged in the UNTREATED room.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Bob, if you have problems with 1.31, I have to say that, at this point, I am inclined to stay with my original firmware.


It will be interesting to see what the final diagnosis is.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13533635
> 
> 
> I think its unfair to compare the MC12HD with a D2 without ARC1 configured in. I am almost sure the auto eq function on the MC12 is engaged in the UNTREATED room.



Before you take those posts too seriously, my assumption is that it is an April Fools joke. Michael loves his D2, and I know he has had the chance to hear Lexicon previously.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It looks like audio and video calibration settings set up under V1.11 still apply without any changes needed for V1.31 (for HDMI and S-video input -- I don't have any calibrated Component sources).


This is good.


I suspect that the bug fixes to Component will mean that anyone upgrading from V1.11 (or earlier) WILL need to re-calibrate Component inputs, and quite possibly also a Component display for best results. Folks upgrading from earlier than V1.11 (or V1.10) will likely ALSO need to re-calibrate HDMI inputs and display given the changes I found I had to make back when I went from V1.06 to V1.11.


-----------------------------------------


I found that if the D2 gets into the multiple static-y screens state while trying to lock onto my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR then, even after it locks in and settles down, the Video Source Adjust settings are all back to default (just like with a power cycle). I suspect what is going on here is that the video board is crashing and rebooting, and not picking up the user settings when it does so. This would also explain why I briefly get the HDCP failure message from the Comcast box (i.e., during the crash/reboot the video board isn't responding to HDCP checks).


However, I verified that a power cycle causes loss of Video Source Adjust settings even if you are using an S-video input, so at least the power-cycle part of this problem is not related to HDMI input. It might be related to my DVI display.


It may be that V1.31 is not quite up to snuff for my vintage of video board.


--------------------------------


I've also determined that it is still the case that the scaler can not recognize the S-video user interface from my Velodyne DD-15 subwoofer. S-video pass through still works fine, but the scaler won't pick it up and convert it to HDMI. However it is very close to working. The image goes in and out, and appears to be screwing up vertical sync, as the lines of video are all legible when it briefly comes in -- just not properly positioned vertically.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13532952
> 
> 
> Bob - I can't help you with the Mac issue. Although, do report back on bootcamp vs. parallels. I currently use an HP laptop, but have a MacBook Pro I was planning to switch to.
> 
> 
> As for the video source adjust. Can you give me the exact steps that you do on the Anthem or remote to adjust a source, then what you do to get it to revert to defaults?
> 
> 
> I just tried to go into the onscreen menu for TV-1 input, change one setting, exit out of the menu, turn off the D2, turn it back on, check the setting and it was still the same as I had changed it.
> 
> 
> So, I want to make sure I am changing the same thing you are changing to see if I can reproduce the problem you are seeing.
> 
> 
> Can't help with the HDMI handshaking either. I have left my TivoHD with HDMI connection on fixed 1080i output and don't have handshaking issues. I haven't tried to go back to Native output from the Tivo (and don't see a need to do so either).



It's pretty straightforward Tim, as best I can tell, anything changed from the defaults gets returned to the defaults.


For an HDMI source, make changes to Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color or Tint for example. For an S-video source make changes in Picture / Video ADC. Also set Scale Out for any source to anything other than Anamorphic.


Now power cycle. When you are back up all those changes will have vanished if you are having the same problem I'm having.


It may be important that I'm using a DVI display for output.


Note that it is ALL changes for ALL inputs that are compromised here -- not just the input in use when you powered down or powered up.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13533753
> 
> 
> It's pretty straightforward Tim, as best I can tell, anything changed from the defaults gets returned to the defaults.
> 
> 
> For an HDMI source, make changes to Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color or Tint for example. For an S-video source make changes in Picture / Video ADC. Also set Scale Out for any source to anything other than Anamorphic.
> 
> 
> Now power cycle. When you are back up all those changes will have vanished if you are having the same problem I'm having.
> 
> 
> It may be important that I'm using a DVI display for output.
> 
> 
> Note that it is ALL changes for ALL inputs that are compromised here -- not just the input in use when you powered down or powered up.
> 
> --Bob



OK, I just checked this out, and my D2 is June/July 2006. I checked out both HDMI (DVD) and component (TivoHD) sources, and through multiple power cycles with the remote. I updated Friday to 1.31 from the Anthem site (dated 3/25/08). ALL of my custom settings remained.


I am not using a DVI output, but an HDMI one.


I noticed that it took a few power cycles after I upgraded for everything to settle. Until then I had some video posterization, some green video, and other anomalies that I had never seen before. Have you completely shut the D2 off since updating?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13533669
> 
> 
> Before you take those posts too seriously, my assumption is that it is an April Fools joke. Michael loves his D2, and I know he has had the chance to hear Lexicon previously.




OK, its already April 2 here in the Philippines


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13533958
> 
> 
> OK, I just checked this out, and my D2 is June/July 2006. I checked out both HDMI (DVD) and component (TivoHD) sources, and through multiple power cycles with the remote. I updated Friday to 1.31 from the Anthem site (dated 3/25/08). ALL of my custom settings remained.
> 
> 
> I am not using a DVI output, but an HDMI one.
> 
> 
> I noticed that it took a few power cycles after I upgraded for everything to settle. Until then I had some video posterization, some green video, and other anomalies that I had never seen before. Have you completely shut the D2 off since updating?




Since the D2 and the AVM50 have the same identical boards and I had the AVM50 Green video board before, when I upgraded to 1.21(x)problems arose. I had to change the board to a RED one before finally ending my misery. With my new D2(Dec 2007), no problems whatsoever.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13533753
> 
> 
> It's pretty straightforward Tim, as best I can tell, anything changed from the defaults gets returned to the defaults.
> 
> 
> For an HDMI source, make changes to Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color or Tint for example. For an S-video source make changes in Picture / Video ADC. Also set Scale Out for any source to anything other than Anamorphic.
> 
> 
> Now power cycle. When you are back up all those changes will have vanished if you are having the same problem I'm having.
> 
> 
> It may be important that I'm using a DVI display for output.
> 
> 
> Note that it is ALL changes for ALL inputs that are compromised here -- not just the input in use when you powered down or powered up.
> 
> --Bob



OK. That's what I was afraid of.


I cannot duplicate the problem you are having. It might be a hardware compatibility issue. Unforutnately, as you've probably already guessed, you'll have to talk to Anthem on this.







I hope a software update can fix this. I don't know if others with "older" D2s who have upgraded have checked their custom video settings to know if they get changed through power cycles.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13533681
> 
> 
> It looks like audio and video calibration settings set up under V1.11 still apply without any changes needed for V1.31 (for HDMI and S-video input -- I don't have any calibrated Component sources).
> 
> 
> This is good.
> 
> 
> I suspect that the bug fixes to Component will mean that anyone upgrading from V1.11 (or earlier) WILL need to re-calibrate Component inputs, and quite possibly also a Component display for best results. Folks upgrading from earlier than V1.11 (or V1.10) will likely ALSO need to re-calibrate HDMI inputs and display given the changes I found I had to make back when I went from V1.06 to V1.11.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I found that if the D2 gets into the multiple static-y screens state while trying to lock onto my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR then, even after it locks in and settles down, the Video Source Adjust settings are all back to default (just like with a power cycle). I suspect what is going on here is that the video board is crashing and rebooting, and not picking up the user settings when it does so. This would also explain why I briefly get the HDCP failure message from the Comcast box (i.e., during the crash/reboot the video board isn't responding to HDCP checks).
> 
> 
> However, I verified that a power cycle causes loss of Video Source Adjust settings even if you are using an S-video input, so at least the power-cycle part of this problem is not related to HDMI input. It might be related to my DVI display.
> 
> 
> It may be that V1.31 is not quite up to snuff for my vintage of video board.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------
> 
> 
> I've also determined that it is still the case that the scaler can not recognize the S-video user interface from my Velodyne DD-15 subwoofer. S-video pass through still works fine, but the scaler won't pick it up and convert it to HDMI. However it is very close to working. The image goes in and out, and appears to be screwing up vertical sync, as the lines of video are all legible when it briefly comes in -- just not properly positioned vertically.
> 
> --Bob



Hey Bob,


Real sorry to hear this is giving you grief. You of all people deserve an nice clean upgrade.


For what it's worth is this the upgrade steps you used? Not sure of the bootstrap vs others etc, but I followed this to the letter and it was all good.


1.) Shut off the D2 using the rear power switch.


2.) Removed all HDMI inputs and output.


3.) Plugged-in the RS-232 connector.


4.) Powered up unit from rear.


5.) Used Live View to turn on unit, get current settings and save.


6.) Used remote to save current settings via setup menu.


7.) Restored Factory Defaults.


8.) Shut off unit via Front Panel.


9.) Cycled on/off rear power switch.


10.) Uploaded 129.k


11.) Turned on unit via Front Panel and after 30 sec. shut down.


12.) Turned on unit via Front Panel and loaded Factory Defaults, then loaded my saved settings.


13.) Opened Live View and loaded my saved settings and uploaded to D2.


14.) Turned of unit via Front Panel and shut down rear power.


15.) Removed Rs-232 connector and plugged-in HDMI Inputs and output.


16.) Turned on Rear Switch and powered up D2.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. One thing I did notice after running ARC-1 the second time was that NOT ALL SOURCES DEFAULTED TO ROOM EQ: ON for some reason. I noticed when I tried a BR through the PS3. Then when checking others it was almost random which had it on and which had it off.


Is there some input setting/audio source default that might trigger it to default or not?


In any case I strongly suggest checking all sources for EQ ON before listening after running ARC-1. I will email this to Nick as well tomorrow unless he reads it here first.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RROSEN,

Yup, that's essentially what I did. I've also tried additional power-cycles (including rear switch) and reloading factory defaults then my saved settings.


---------------------


I'm just about ready to try this again using the Keyspan adapter and Windows XP running in Bootcamp on the Macbook.


---------------------


By the way, I've been watching the SD-DVD of Ratatouille while setting up Bootcamp, AND IT LOOKS OUTSTANDING!


This is from my Pioneer Elite 59AVI at HDMI 480i.


I thought it looked great under V1.11, but it actually looks BETTER now! Since there're no calibration level differences, I suspect it might be a change in Gamma or possibly fixing some noise or rounding error in the processing.


It also sounds great, but I'm not sure it's substantially better than under V1.11.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13534502
> 
> 
> RROSEN,
> 
> Yup, that's essentially what I did. I've also tried additional power-cycles (including rear switch) and reloading factory defaults then my saved settings.
> 
> 
> ---------------------
> 
> 
> I'm just about ready to try this again using the Keyspan adapter and Windows XP running in Bootcamp on the Macbook.
> 
> 
> ---------------------
> 
> 
> By the way, I've been watching the SD-DVD of Ratatouille while setting up Bootcamp, AND IT LOOKS OUTSTANDING!
> 
> 
> This is from my Pioneer Elite 59AVI at HDMI 480i.
> 
> 
> I thought it looked great under V1.11, but it actually looks BETTER now! Since there're no calibration level differences, I suspect it might be a change in Gamma or possibly fixing some noise or rounding error in the processing.
> 
> 
> It also sounds great, but I'm not sure it's substantially better than under V1.11.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah back in the day when I was a happy little Red HDM only fan I bought the SD DVD of Rat. It looks so good 480i out from my oppo 470hd to the D2 then 1080p/60 to my display that I never bothered getting the BR after I went neutral.


May get it eventually on sale or something, but for now the SD DVD looks awesome as it is. Besides, while it is a cute story, not nearly enough stuff explodes for me to watch it over and over hahaa.










Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Rayjr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13533635
> 
> 
> I think its unfair to compare the MC12HD with a D2 without ARC1 configured in. I am almost sure the auto eq function on the MC12 is engaged in the UNTREATED room.



This is a very funny statement to me........because the first thing that every Anthem owner says is "but the lexicon has no scaler".....but when the Anthem is the lacking side....it is UNFAIR










RayJr


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rayjr* /forum/post/13534746
> 
> 
> This is a very funny statement to me........because the first thing that every Anthem owner says is "but the lexicon has no scaler".....but when the Anthem is the lacking side....it is UNFAIR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RayJr



That's funny.


I didn't realize the Lexicon didn't have a scaler. That's a good and a bad thing depending on your point of view and other equipment.


----------



## jdswph

I'm receiving strange behavior with the Motorola Cable box after the 1.31 upgrade. The screen shows a message that video source is not HDCP compliant in a blue bar across the middle of the screen. I can see the picture clear behind the blue box. Changing around the settings sometimes I get a flashing 'pink fuzz' with the blue bar stating HDCP... I did't have any issues with the 1.10 FW. Emailed anthem and they said to use component from the cable box, "I wouldn't notice the difference".


If I switch off the monitor and use the DVD player (Oppo HDMI) as an audio source I get 1 second silence then 1 second music, this sequence repeats. Switch to another source, back to DVD stabilizes the problem.


There you have it - 1.31 needs some refinement.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rayjr* /forum/post/13534746
> 
> 
> This is a very funny statement to me........because the first thing that every Anthem owner says is "but the lexicon has no scaler".....but when the Anthem is the lacking side....it is UNFAIR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RayJr



The point is that the Anthem is _never_ on the "lacking side"! Michael isn't selling his D2. It was an _obvious_ April Fools joke, as we all know that the D2 completely and utterly _smokes_ the Lexicon!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter appears to work fine when used with Windows XP, on Bootcamp, on a Macbook.


The driver that came with it is 3.4. The latest driver on the web site is 3.7s. I initially loaded 3.4 and then updated that to 3.7s which worked without issues in the Bootcamp environment, but produced some unexplained complaint in the Parallels environment.


With the 3.7s driver, Live Video Settings Editor works without a hitch to Get and Load the Video Source Adjust menu settings.


So I did a Load Saved User Settings (to get the Video Source Adjust stuff back), used Live Editor to save that to the Mac, and then re-did the firmware install. It too completed without complaint. Then the 30 second power cycle, reload factory defaults, reload saved user settings, and Open and Load the saved Video Source Adjust settings from the Mac. Again, no complaints. For good measure, I did another 30 second power cycle.


Unfortunately, the Video Source Adjust menu settings still revert to defaults when you power cycle.


I'll just have to try to work this with Anthem in the morning.


But for folks planning on using an Intel-based Mac, my advice now would be to use Windows XP on Bootcamp with the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter.


ETA: This Mac itself is running Leopard 10.5.2, fully updated, but I doubt the Bootcamp environment depends on any of that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well the new load of V1.31 has not fixed anything, but it has broken something new that worked under the previous load of V1.31. One of my S-video sources is no longer recognized. Curiously, the Info panel shows the correct input resolution, but the status line above it says No Video.


I suspect I'm going to need something like the Flash Eraser program from Anthem to force a completely fresh reload of V1.31.


Ah well -- I'll be on the phone with them in the morning.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rayjr* /forum/post/13529571
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=624



Happy April 1st, 2008.


----------



## muad'dib

Question for all of you ARC users..


When Using the Advanced mode, and inputting your targets, you will notice that the Default Frequency is like 5000hz..


Is this for a reason? I would think that 20000hz should be the correct value, as your room would effect some or all of the entire range?



If I did set it to 20000hz, am I now using up more EQ power to cover the entire range, therefore not as accurate?


What setting do most of you leave it at? I will use 80hz for the all channels, but the room gain, freq. have me wondering..


Thanx..


----------



## bool

I have an AVM50 and am looking for improvement on the sound side of things. I have the chance to upgrade to a new D2 w/ARC by trading up my AVM50 for ~$3800 (paid $4500).


I have recently upgraded my amp from an Emotiva MPS-1 to a P2 running the fronts (Emotiva still runs center and surrounds) and am impressed with the improvement in sound. I have Focal Profile speakers in a 7.1 setup with a new Paradigm Signature Servo Sub connected to a Velodyne SMS-1.


I do not have a super CD player or Blu-Ray player, but do use a Denon 3910 for SACD/CD and DVD-A/DVDs and the PS3 for Blu-Ray. I also listen to a lot of stuff on iTunes (very convienient) thru my DIY music server.


I know the AVM50 and D2 are identical on the scaler end (I am super happy with that), but using a D2 w/ARC matched up to my present equipment in an untreated room, would one expect an improvement in sound for music? movies?


Thanks


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/13535399
> 
> 
> Question for all of you ARC users..
> 
> 
> When Using the Advanced mode, and inputting your targets, you will notice that the Default Frequency is like 5000hz..
> 
> 
> Is this for a reason? I would think that 20000hz should be the correct value, as your room would effect some or all of the entire range?
> 
> 
> 
> If I did set it to 20000hz, am I now using up more EQ power to cover the entire range, therefore not as accurate?
> 
> 
> What setting do most of you leave it at? I will use 80hz for the all channels, but the room gain, freq. have me wondering..
> 
> 
> Thanx..




To be honest I haven't even looked at the Advanced ARC-1 option.


What benefits does it give you in running ARC that you miss when running the automatic mode?


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13535441
> 
> 
> To be honest I haven't even looked at the Advanced ARC-1 option.
> 
> 
> What benefits does it give you in running ARC that you miss when running the automatic mode?
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard




Using the Advanced mode, since I can set crossovers different for MUSIC/MOVIE calibrations this is useful.


I find in my system, that setting all speakers to 80hz, then re-calculating, gives my system better sound...


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/13535407
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50 and am looking for improvement on the sound side of things. I have the chance to upgrade to a new D2 w/ARC by trading up my AVM50 for ~$3800 (paid $4500).
> 
> 
> I have recently upgraded my amp from an Emotiva MPS-1 to a P2 running the fronts (Emotiva still runs center and surrounds) and am impressed with the improvement in sound. I have Focal Profile speakers in a 7.1 setup with a new Paradigm Signature Servo Sub connected to a Velodyne SMS-1.
> 
> 
> I do not have a super CD player or Blu-Ray player, but do use a Denon 3910 for SACD/CD and DVD-A/DVDs and the PS3 for Blu-Ray. I also listen to a lot of stuff on iTunes (very convienient) thru my DIY music server.
> 
> 
> I know the AVM50 and D2 are identical on the scaler end (I am super happy with that), but using a D2 w/ARC matched up to my present equipment in an untreated room, would one expect an improvement in sound for music? movies?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I think you would notice an improvement in sound on both movies and music. The ARC would help a lot as would the better Preamp section of the D2.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/13535379
> 
> 
> Happy April 1st, 2008.



I was completely duped!










I spotted all the other April Fool's jokes today, but not this one. Very nice. Very nice indeed!


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/13535379
> 
> 
> Happy April 1st, 2008.




As I have said its April 2nd here in the Philippines and I was caught off guard. I was wondering it it were true, how would you change your forum name? LexiconMC maybe?


----------



## misterdoggy

What a relief










Better take down the post before some read it and take it for serious


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13531302
> 
> 
> Try this. Leave your BR player outputting 1080p/24 (Native disk resolution) and using the D2 Video configurations, have one at 1080p/24 and one at 1080p/60. (Use Configs 3 & 4 if they are not in use and you don't want to mess with any you already may have set up if need be).
> 
> 
> Start the movie and go into the D2 setup menu > Video Output and try each. If the /60 works and the /24 doesn't then your projector probably doesn't accept /24.
> 
> 
> In either case once you figure it out, send the 1080p/24 (native Rez) to your D2 and let the D2 do the scaling. My HP Pavillion MD658N (or something like that) doesn't accept /24 either so this is how I set it up and its amazing.
> 
> 
> As a few general rules (for me anyway):
> 
> If you can send the D2 the native rez, do so and if needed let the D2 do any scaling, deinterlacing or whatever.
> 
> If the source is interlaced (like SD DVD, My SAT box, My cable Box) again choose native or at least one of the xxxxI/xx (Interlaced Options) and let the D2 again do the processing up to 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Thanks Richard,


Im gonna try this today and I'll let you know. I think the Sony Bravia 52 inch is not 1080p 24 but 1080p 60 and thats the problem.


I seem to remember when setting up I chose as an output 1080p 24 and had no image and when I changed to 1080p 60 the image came up.


Is it an automatic thing with the Sony Bravia ?


cheers,

Bruce


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Well UPS ground made it in 1 day, my ARC is out for delivery. I guess my workday will be shortened.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13533753
> 
> 
> 
> It may be important that I'm using a DVI display for output.
> 
> 
> --Bob



I have been following your 1.31 Story.


When you talk to Nick - You might find your statement above is the PROBLEM.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13535367
> 
> 
> 
> I suspect I'm going to need something like the Flash Eraser program from Anthem to force a completely fresh reload of V1.31.
> 
> 
> --Bob



It is available on the Anthem SW Site.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13534935
> 
> 
> That's funny.
> 
> 
> I didn't realize the Lexicon didn't have a scaler. That's a good and a bad thing depending on your point of view and other equipment.



NOT ONLY NO SCALER - but it can only handle 1080i


----------



## misterdoggy

Well the Sony Bravia does not accept 1080p 24 as I get a check device message when I send using this


So I have the BD player set to 1080p 24 output in to the D2 and the D2 changes it to 1080p 60.


Is it better than straight 1080p 60 straight thru ?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13536450
> 
> 
> 
> So I have the BD player set to 1080p 24 output in to the D2 and the D2 changes it to 1080p 60.
> 
> 
> Is it better than straight 1080p 60 straight thru ?



YES


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13536444
> 
> 
> NOT ONLY NO SCALER - but it can only handle 1080i



Really? That's interesting.


You missed an exciting day yesterday Dr. Z.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13536536
> 
> 
> Really? That's interesting.
> 
> 
> You missed an exciting day yesterday Dr. Z.



I had to work - but I read All Bob's Story and I did see the April Fools Joke


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13534175
> 
> 
> OK. That's what I was afraid of.
> 
> 
> I cannot duplicate the problem you are having. It might be a hardware compatibility issue. Unforutnately, as you've probably already guessed, you'll have to talk to Anthem on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope a software update can fix this. I don't know if others with "older" D2s who have upgraded have checked their custom video settings to know if they get changed through power cycles.



I have not seen this issue.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13533753
> 
> 
> It's pretty straightforward Tim, as best I can tell, anything changed from the defaults gets returned to the defaults.
> 
> 
> For an HDMI source, make changes to Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color or Tint for example. For an S-video source make changes in Picture / Video ADC. Also set Scale Out for any source to anything other than Anamorphic.
> 
> 
> Now power cycle. When you are back up all those changes will have vanished if you are having the same problem I'm having.
> 
> 
> It may be important that I'm using a DVI display for output.
> 
> 
> Note that it is ALL changes for ALL inputs that are compromised here -- not just the input in use when you powered down or powered up.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - did you try making video source adjustments manually from the D2's menu and save on the D2 rather than using Live Video Settings?


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13536444
> 
> 
> NOT ONLY NO SCALER - but it can only handle 1080i



The MC-12HD handles 1080p at 24/50/60.


Sanjay


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13537239
> 
> 
> Bob - did you try making video source adjustments manually from the D2's menu and save on the D2 rather than using Live Video Settings?



Yes. No luck that way either. The changed Video Source Adjust menu settings do not survive a power cycle.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13537391
> 
> 
> Yes. No luck that way either. The changed Video Source Adjust menu settings do not survive a power cycle.
> 
> --Bob



Good luck with your call to Anthem today.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13537429
> 
> 
> Good luck with your call to Anthem today.



I'm waiting for a return call from Nick now. I didn't catch the name of the guy who answered my call, but he said he had not heard of any other reports of failure of the Video Source Adjust settings to survive a power cycle.


I must say, I'm surprised at the imaging improvements for SD-DVD and HDTV compared to V1.11. I haven't had a chance to watch any SDTV critically yet. The sound field for DD 5.1 content appears to be more natural as well, although there could be some wishful thinking in there since that's harder to judge.


But a friend also immediately noticed the imaging improvement in SD-DVD -- he assumed I'd made new calibration adjustments.


The V1.11 video was so good, I wonder what they might have changed and when they changed it?

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/13535407
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50 and am looking for improvement on the sound side of things. I have the chance to upgrade to a new D2 w/ARC by trading up my AVM50 for ~$3800 (paid $4500).
> 
> 
> [...snip...]
> 
> 
> I know the AVM50 and D2 are identical on the scaler end (I am super happy with that), but using a D2 w/ARC matched up to my present equipment in an untreated room, would one expect an improvement in sound for music? movies?
> 
> 
> Thanks



The key to the question is the phrase *untreated room*. Typical home listening/viewing rooms have a lot of acoustical problems. It is likely you will experience a significant improvement - especially since you have great downstream equipment.


Most people have never heard a correctly treated room.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13537862
> 
> 
> I'm waiting for a return call from Nick now. I didn't catch the name of the guy who answered my call, but he said he had not heard of any other reports of failure of the Video Source Adjust settings to survive a power cycle.
> 
> 
> I must say, I'm surprised at the imaging improvements for SD-DVD and HDTV compared to V1.11. I haven't had a chance to watch any SDTV critically yet. The sound field for DD 5.1 content appears to be more natural as well, although there could be some wishful thinking in there since that's harder to judge.
> 
> 
> But a friend also immediately noticed the imaging improvement in SD-DVD -- he assumed I'd made new calibration adjustments.
> 
> 
> The V1.11 video was so good, I wonder what they might have changed and when they changed it?
> 
> --Bob




I thought the SD DVD output was exceptional from the beginning of my D2 experience. Of course, I started with 1.20.


In fact, it was so good that when I first got the PS3 and we put in a scene from Harry Potter, my oldest son said "Blue Ray is a ripoff". For the next 2 weeks, every time he say a Sony BD commercial, he'd scream that.


Now we don't watch too many SD DVDs. The ones we watch are from TV shows, so the quality isn't so great to begin with. Now, everytime we put on a HD TV show or BD disc, he says "wow the picture is so amazing".










FWIW, the BD version of Blue Planet has some exceptional HD footage.


----------



## sbwright

Okay Bob you are getting me very interested with your observed improvements to the video, hope you get your settings issued resolved soon.


I am sitting here with my AVM50 with version 1.06, do I do it, no, should I try it, NO.


For you guys that have access to Anthems test software web page, do they have older versions of the software there?


I would really like a copy of 1.06 to go back to in case disaster strikes.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13536167
> 
> 
> Well UPS ground made it in 1 day, my ARC is out for delivery. I guess my workday will be shortened.



Good luck setting it up.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/13538131
> 
> 
> Okay Bob you are getting me very interested with your observed improvements to the video, hope you get your settings issued resolved soon.
> 
> 
> I am sitting here with my AVM50 with version 1.06, do I do it, no, should I try it, NO.
> 
> 
> For you guys that have access to Anthems test software web page, do they have older versions of the software there?
> 
> 
> I would really like a copy of 1.06 to go back to in case disaster strikes.



There were significant imaging improvements from V1.06 to V1.11. Anthem mentioned some of the things they had done and the improved imaging made sense back then. For HDMI sources I can't recall any specific items Anthem has let slip that would explain imaging improvements between V1.11 and V1.31, but it appears to be real. Going all the way from V1.06 to V1.31 -- after you recalibrate your video -- should be a real eye opener!

--Bob


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13536450
> 
> 
> Well the Sony Bravia does not accept 1080p 24 as I get a check device message when I send using this
> 
> 
> So I have the BD player set to 1080p 24 output in to the D2 and the D2 changes it to 1080p 60.
> 
> 
> Is it better than straight 1080p 60 straight thru ?



What's the model number on your 52" Bravia? I think they do accept 24p, at least if it's a current model. I have a 32" inch one in my bedroom, and it takes 24p from a PS3. I think there might be something else going wrong, it's worth double checking the manual.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/13538131
> 
> 
> For you guys that have access to Anthems test software web page, do they have older versions of the software there?
> 
> 
> I would really like a copy of 1.06 to go back to in case disaster strikes.




Nope -


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just spoke with Nick and gave him the situation. The software guys are sorting through what's working and what's not working in my unit to try to isolate how my install of V1.31 might have gone bad and to figure out what to try next. This is the first case of failure to retain the Video Source Adjust settings that they've heard of.


I expect to hear back from them in a few more hours.


ETA: My ARC-1 upgrade has arrived at my dealer's shop now.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13538655
> 
> 
> Just spoke with Nick and gave him the situation. The software guys are sorting through what's working and what's not working in my unit to try to isolate how my install of V1.31 might have gone bad and to figure out what to try next. This is the first case of failure to retain the Video Source Adjust settings that they've heard of.
> 
> 
> I expect to hear back from them in a few more hours.
> 
> 
> ETA: My ARC-1 upgrade has arrived at my dealer's shop now.
> 
> --Bob



Good luck.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

What movies will you watch right after you install the ARC?

I watched parts of 2001 Space Odyssey, The Incredibles, The Blu-ray Spiderman 2, & Master & Commander Far Side of the World.

A good test of how quiet your system is, try watching the Part of 2001 Space Odyssey where Hal the computer rebels and kills one of the astronauts . The part where a astronaut floats in total quiet of space is a great test for background noise.(their should be none)

The Dynamics are tested when in the beginning of the movie of Master & Commander, a ship attacks Russell Crowe's ship. Spiderman 2 has uses the surrounds very effectively besides the subwoofer. Same with The Incredibles. Both movies have scenes that test steering and how well the system is integrated to your room.

What movies will you use to test the ARC after you install it?


----------



## ASW

6th Avenue Electronics in New Jersey tells me my Anthem told them my ARC-1 should be in by mid next week. Here is hoping


----------



## BillW

Bob, when you talk to Nick would you mind asking him what they did that could account for the video improvements? I'm sitting on 1.1 and am very curious!!


Bill


----------



## bool

Well, I did it and upgraded to the D2. I can't wait to listen to my favorite music and run that ARC setup! I am curious to see how much of a difference I get from the AVM50.


----------



## shah993

Bob,

I also have 1.1 version and my display is dvi ( Optoma H 79).I use a HDMI to DVI adapter, do you think I will have the same problem? I dont know if anybody else is using DVI.( Need to upgrade my display!).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/13540116
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I also have 1.1 version and my display is dvi ( Optoma H 79).I use a HDMI to DVI adapter, do you think I will have the same problem? I dont know if anybody else is using DVI.( Need to upgrade my display!).



Your DVI display should be fine until you decide to replace it for some other reason. DVI (for home theater) is a subset of HDMI. If it is related to my problem it is just a bug that will get fixed.


I think some of the firmware install just didn't take properly on my hardware.

--Bob


----------



## ASW

Among the obsolete video sources I have running through my D2 (e.g., Laser Disc) is a VCR. The VCR is connected to the D2 using an inexpensive composite to S-video adapter (my Tributaries C2S adapter didn't play nice with the D2 at all) to take advantage of the D2's processing.


While tapes play OK, the VCR's menu shows up as a double vision/split screen. Any thoughts about wht could be the issue? This is not a really big deal (especially since I use the VCR only a few times per year), but it still is annoying.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13540727
> 
> 
> I think some of the firmware install just didn't take properly on my hardware.--Bob



The beta site has a "flash eraser" that would let you start over.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem is working my problem. We've discovered that starting from Factory Defaults, and powering up directly to a source that comes in at HDMI 480i under those defaults (DVD1 input via HDMI1 from my Pioneer player), we can change a setting in the Video Source Adjust menu and have that change survive a power cycle. This is apparently the simplest case for that power-up retrieval of settings.


Doing the same thing after Load User Settings (my normal settings) and such a change no longer survives the power cycle. Nor do the rest of my user settings in the Video Source Adjust menu (the Setup menu stuff continues to work just fine over power cycles).


One possibility is that there is something corrupted in my saved settings. But I believe they are working on the thought that there might be a timing issue as to when the video board loads those settings on power up.


Unfortunately, by coincidence or otherwise, doing this test caused the loss of on screen display of the Setup menu. This is presumably the "other shoe" dropping of the loss of S-video input from my S-video source device since the Setup menu also goes through that S-video stuff.


Stay tuned.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13541007
> 
> 
> Among the obsolete video sources I have running through my D2 (e.g., Laser Disc) is a VCR. The VCR is connected to the D2 using an inexpensive composite to S-video adapter (my Tributaries C2S adapter didn't play nice with the D2 at all) to take advantage of the D2's processing.
> 
> 
> While tapes play OK, the VCR's menu shows up as a double vision/split screen. Any thoughts about wht could be the issue? This is not a really big deal (especially since I use the VCR only a few times per year), but it still is annoying.



Apparently the cause of a lot of S-video user interface problems is that some of the cheap character generators used in these devices only generate every other field of video. I'm not sure why the Anthem's scaler is sensitive to that.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13541798
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, by coincidence or otherwise, doing this test caused the loss of on screen display of the Setup menu. This is presumably the "other shoe" dropping of the loss of S-video input from my S-video source device since the Setup menu also goes through that S-video stuff.
> 
> 
> Stay tuned.
> 
> --Bob




I have been experiencing the loss of on screen displayof the Setup menu since I upgraded from 1.21. Sometimes it would display and sometimes it would would not display. And sometimes when it did display, it would not always stay up. It would begin to flicker and then eventually just disappear completely.


----------



## ninja12

I sent the following questions about the ARC to Anthem over the past weekend, and I have not heard a respone from anyone. So, I decided I would post them here to see if someone would respond.


1) You have indicated that the PC requirements are Windows XP. I have a desktop with Windows 2000 and a laptop with Windows Vista. Will the ARC work on Windows 2000 or Vista?


2) I have a Velodyne DD18 subwoofer which has Room Correction. You indicated the it MUST be running when ARC starts playing its sweep tones, otherwise ARC will not be measuring the subwoofers "real" performance. How exactly will I do that? I'm sure that the subwoofer sweep tones can't be running when the ARC is measuring the high frequencies. Will the ARC stop just before it's about to calibrate the sub and ask if my sub has room correction and if so to please run the room correction? Does the ARC not send low frequencies through the sub to calculate the LFE responses? As you can tell, I'm pretty confused about when to start the room correction for my sub when the ARC is running. Could you please elaborate?


3) How long is the USB microphone cable?


4) What's the difference between standard mode and advanced mode? Does advanced mode allow you to make changes after the ARC run where standard mode does not? If you can make changes, what changes can I make? Also, will standard mode cover everything that advanced mode covers?


5) I downloaded and installed 1.31. Is that the same version that's on the ARC installation CD?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13542174
> 
> 
> I have been experiencing the loss of on screen displayof the Setup menu since I upgraded from 1.21. Sometimes it would display and sometimes it would would not display. And sometimes when it did display, it would not always stay up. It would begin to flicker and then eventually just disappear completely.



This is a problem in the S-video circuit in the Anthem. It is usually associated with the inability to get stable scaled video output from any S-video input source. In the past I believe they have fixed this as a hardware fix.


But the fact that this happened AFTER this V1.31 upgrade for me (i.e., it worked after the first two tries at V1.31, and failed on the 3rd try) suggests it may be a software issue -- which means they can fix it in software.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13542213
> 
> 
> I sent the following questions about the ARC to Anthem over the past weekend, and I have not heard a respone from anyone. So, I decided I would post them here to see if someone would respond.
> 
> 
> 1) You have indicated that the PC requirements are Windows XP. I have a desktop with Windows 2000 and a laptop with Windows Vista. Will the ARC work on Windows 2000 or Vista?
> 
> 
> 2) I have a Velodyne DD18 subwoofer which has Room Correction. You indicated the it MUST be running when ARC starts playing its sweep tones, otherwise ARC will not be measuring the subwoofers "real" performance. How exactly will I do that? I'm sure that the subwoofer sweep tones can't be running when the ARC is measuring the high frequencies. Will the ARC stop just before it's about to calibrate the sub and ask if my sub has room correction and if so to please run the room correction? Does the ARC not send low frequencies through the sub to calculate the LFE responses? As you can tell, I'm pretty confused about when to start the room correction for my sub when the ARC is running. Could you please elaborate?
> 
> 
> 3) How long is the USB microphone cable?
> 
> 
> 4) What's the difference between standard mode and advanced mode? Does advanced mode allow you to make changes after the ARC run where standard mode does not? If you can make changes, what changes can I make? Also, will standard mode cover everything that advanced mode covers?
> 
> 
> 5) I downloaded and installed 1.31. Is that the same version that's on the ARC installation CD?



We've had reports here of ARC working on Vista. No reports as to Windows 2000.


What they mean regarding the subwoofer is to select a Velodyne preset that has the Velodyne Room EQ stuff turned on, otherwise when you make the ARC measurements ARC won't hear what the Velodyne's Room EQ does. If you want to compare how well ARC works with and without the Velodyne Room EQ turned on, that is easy to do by selecting Velodyne Preset 6 that disables the Velodyne's EQ processing.


To get the full value of the Velodyne stuff, TURN OFF Setup / Source Setup / Room EQ for the Anthem input you use for running the Velodyne's own sweeps. This turns off ARC for that input. Then run the Velodyne stuff -- either their automated stuff or doing it manually while watching the Velodyne's response graph. After you've got the best you can get using the Velodyne's internal Room EQ, then leave those settings in place in the Velodyne and now do the ARC measurements. What ARC's mic hears will include the benefits of the Velodyne's internal Room EQ. Upload the ARC results to the Anthem, turn on Setup / Source Setup / Room EQ for each source in the Anthem, and you will now hear the *COMBINED* benefits of the processing inside the Velodyne plus what ARC does on top of that.


Remember that if you turn OFF the Velodyne's internal Room EQ, you will need to RE-MEASURE and upload new ARC results since what ARC has to do will be different with and without the assistance of the Velodyne's internal stuff.


And if you want to see what the Velodyne's response graph shows with both it's EQ and ARC working together, you will need to turn back ON Setup / Source Setup / Room EQ (i.e., ARC processing) for the Anthem input you use for playing the Velodyne's test tone sweeps.


Reports here are that the included USB mic cable for ARC is about 10 feet long.


"Advanced" mode gives you additional control over the ARC results. I don't know what's offered, but suspect you should plan on using the "Standard" results for now -- even though you may go into "Advanced" to see more info as to what's up with the "Standard" results.


V1.31 on the web site is the latest version. ARC 1.1 (the Windows application) on the web site is also the latest version. I don't have my ARC CD yet, but I suspect the versions on the CD are identical. It is easy enough to check file size and last modified date for what's on the CD compared to what you download.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

I used a Vista Business SP1 Laptop with the keyspan USA-19HS and had no issues.


I also matched up the download files against the ones on the ARC-1 CD and they matched. Even Bit matched the 1.31 update etc.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13542317
> 
> 
> This is a problem in the S-video circuit in the Anthem. It is usually associated with the inability to get stable scaled video output from any S-video input source. In the past I believe they have fixed this as a hardware fix.
> 
> 
> But the fact that this happened AFTER this V1.31 upgrade for me (i.e., it worked after the first two tries at V1.31, and failed on the 3rd try) suggests it may be a software issue -- which means they can fix it in software.
> 
> --Bob




I think it's a software problem because I didn't start having the problem until I upgraded from 1.21. to 1.29j. FW 1.21 displayed the on screen setup menu wthout any problems.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13542511
> 
> 
> I think it's a software problem because I didn't start having the problem until I upgraded from 1.21. to 1.29j. FW 1.21 displayed the on screen setup menu wthout any problems.



The problem with that is I don't believe we've had any reports of the problem being fixed by folks reverting to an older software version.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13542416
> 
> 
> We've had reports here of ARC working on Vista. No reports as to Windows 2000.
> 
> 
> What they mean regarding the subwoofer is to select a Velodyne preset that has the Velodyne Room EQ stuff turned on, otherwise when you make the ARC measurements ARC won't hear what the Velodyne's Room EQ does. If you want to compare how well ARC works with and without the Velodyne Room EQ turned on, that is easy to do by selecting Velodyne Preset 6 that disables the Velodyne's EQ processing.
> 
> 
> To get the full value of the Velodyne stuff, TURN OFF Setup / Source Setup / Room EQ for the Anthem input you use for running the Velodyne's own sweeps. This turns off ARC for that input. Then run the Velodyne stuff -- either their automated stuff or doing it manually while watching the Velodyne's response graph. After you've got the best you can get using the Velodyne's internal Room EQ, then leave those settings in place in the Velodyne and now do the ARC measurements. What ARC's mic hears will include the benefits of the Velodyne's internal Room EQ. Upload the ARC results to the Anthem, turn on Setup / Source Setup / Room EQ for each source in the Anthem, and you will now hear the *COMBINED* benefits of the processing inside the Velodyne plus what ARC does on top of that.
> 
> 
> Remember that if you turn OFF the Velodyne's internal Room EQ, you will need to RE-MEASURE and upload new ARC results since what ARC has to do will be different with and without the assistance of the Velodyne's internal stuff.
> 
> 
> And if you want to see what the Velodyne's response graph shows with both it's EQ and ARC working together, you will need to turn back ON Setup / Source Setup / Room EQ (i.e., ARC processing) for the Anthem input you use for playing the Velodyne's test tone sweeps.
> 
> 
> Reports here are that the included USB mic cable for ARC is about 10 feet long.
> 
> 
> "Advanced" mode gives you additional control over the ARC results. I don't know what's offered, but suspect you should plan on using the "Standard" results for now -- even though you may go into "Advanced" to see more info as to what's up with the "Standard" results.
> 
> 
> V1.31 on the web site is the latest version. ARC 1.1 (the Windows application) on the web site is also the latest version. I don't have my ARC CD yet, but I suspect the versions on the CD are identical. It is easy enough to check file size and last modified date for what's on the CD compared to what you download.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob for clearing up my confusion. I completely understand now. However, I might have to get an USB extension cable to connect to the mic cable because I don't think 10ft will be able to cover my complete listening area for the 5 different positions.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13542561
> 
> 
> The problem with that is I don't believe we've had any of the problem being fixed by folks reverting to an older software version.
> 
> --Bob



I wished I had a way of getting back to the original software, 1.21, that came with my D2. It would be nice if Anthem would include a CD with the original software that was installed on your D2. Hopefully, it is a software problem because it would be easier to fix.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13542572
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob for clearing up my confusion. I completely understand now. However, I might have to get an USB extension cable to connect to the mic cable because I don't think 10ft will be able to cover my complete listening area for the 5 different positions.



It might be better to use a longer serial cable between your computer and the D2. Then just move your computer if you need to move the mic farther than the USB mic cable allows. USB is not really intended for very long runs of cable, but you can easily run serial cable 50 feet or longer.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13542174
> 
> 
> I have been experiencing the loss of on screen displayof the Setup menu since I upgraded from 1.21. Sometimes it would display and sometimes it would would not display. And sometimes when it did display, it would not always stay up. It would begin to flicker and then eventually just disappear completely.



You just described the exact same issue that I have had since day 1 of owning my D2. Still working with the original FW that shipped with it (a year ago now).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13542317
> 
> 
> This is a problem in the S-video circuit in the Anthem. It is usually associated with the inability to get stable scaled video output from any S-video input source. In the past I believe they have fixed this as a hardware fix.
> 
> 
> But the fact that this happened AFTER this V1.31 upgrade for me (i.e., it worked after the first two tries at V1.31, and failed on the 3rd try) suggests it may be a software issue -- which means they can fix it in software.
> 
> --Bob



I do not have any S-Video sources connected to my D2, but have exactly the same issue described by ninja12.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

After 2 hours I have it upgraded, it is awesome. It is small at first, but after playing multiple tracks, you won't be dissappointed.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13542593
> 
> 
> I wished I had a way of getting back to the original software, 1.21, that came with my D2. It would be nice if Anthem would include a CD with the original software that was installed on your D2. Hopefully, it is a software problem because it would be easier to fix.



My D2 came with 1.20. Unfortunately, there is no way to save the software that's already installed. I have saved all the versions to which I have upgraded. I have 1.21b, 1.21d, 1.29j, 1.29k, 1.30a, 1.31, 1.31-release.


Send me a PM with your email address if you want me to send you any of these.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13542605
> 
> 
> You just described the exact same issue that I have had since day 1 of owning my D2. Still working with the original FW that shipped with it (a year ago now).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do not have any S-Video sources connected to my D2, but have exactly the same issue described by ninja12.



Have you reported it to Anthem? I did and they eventually wanted me to send mine back. I have not sent it back yet. It's hard for me to part with my D2 since I just got it about 3 months ago.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13542688
> 
> 
> After 2 hours I have it upgraded, it is awesome. It is small at first, but after playing multiple tracks, you won't be dissappointed.



What did you upgrade? firmware, arc, or both?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13542835
> 
> 
> Have you reported it to Anthem? I did and they eventually wanted me to send mine back. I have not sent it back yet. It's hard for me to part with my D2 since I just got it about 3 months ago.



Yes, reported and discussed at length with Nick. He also said I could send it back through my dealer. I haven't done it either, largely because it is a huge PITA to disconnect, drive 45 miles to the dealer, and even worse, it isn't clear that I would have a replacement unit or have to wait until mine is repaired and returned (that would be truly painful as I have no backup that I could use).


Basically I just hope the OSD works when I need to use the setup menu (it works a bit more than 50% of the time).


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13542604
> 
> 
> It might be better to use a longer serial cable between your computer and the D2. Then just move your computer if you need to move the mic farther than the USB mic cable allows. USB is not really intended for very long runs of cable, but you can easily run serial cable 50 feet or longer.
> 
> --Bob



The only computer that I have with a serial port is my desktop, and that has Windows 2000. I was actually going to try it that way. I was going to run the serial cable from my desktop to my D2 and then connect the ARC's mic USB cable to my desktop. I normally use my desktop to update the firmware for my D2.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13543038
> 
> 
> Yes, reported and discussed at length with Nick. He also said I could send it back through my dealer. I haven't done it either, largely because it is a huge PITA to disconnect, drive 45 miles to the dealer, and even worse, it isn't clear that I would have a replacement unit or have to wait until mine is repaired and returned (that would be truly painful as I have no backup that I could use).
> 
> 
> Basically I just hope the OSD works when I need to use the setup menu (it works a bit more than 50% of the time).



I was told it would probably take 3 to 5 weeks. I have the same hope. I just hope it works when I need to use it. Sometimes I have try 5 or more times before it will actually display.


----------



## BillW




Rob Tomlin said:


> Yes, reported and discussed at length with Nick. He also said I could send it back through my dealer. I haven't done it either, largely because it is a huge PITA to disconnect, drive 45 miles to the dealer, and even worse, it isn't clear that I would have a replacement unit or have to wait until mine is repaired and returned (that would be truly painful as I have no backup that I could use).
> 
> 
> I think the dealer would loan you something (maybe not a D2) to tide you over and keep you a happy customer. Really they should just offer that without prompting.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13542572
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob for clearing up my confusion. I completely understand now. However, I might have to get an USB extension cable to connect to the mic cable because I don't think 10ft will be able to cover my complete listening area for the 5 different positions.



I wouldn't worry that an extension would work (not sure if you are). I used mine connected into my Logitech G15 Keyboard and it was fine. So in fact it was like I had mine connected to an extension AND a USB splitter/port and everything was fine.


On the other end, my Keyspan was connected to about a 15-20ft USB extension and that worked fine for both the 1.31 upgrade and the ARC.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. Did anyone else check or notice if some of their sources did NOT default to Room EQ: ON? I am sure it says it will default them to this, but some of mine were not. In any case I plan on running it again tomorrow and will see if any change.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13543737
> 
> 
> I wouldn't worry that an extension would work (not sure if you are). I used mine connected into my Logitech G15 Keyboard and it was fine. So in fact it was like I had mine connected to an extension AND a USB splitter/port and everything was fine.
> 
> 
> On the other end, my Keyspan was connected to about a 15-20ft USB extension and that worked fine for both the 1.31 upgrade and the ARC.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> PS. Did anyone else check or notice if some of their sources did NOT default to Room EQ: ON? I am sure it says it will default them to this, but some of mine were not. In any case I plan on running it again tomorrow and will see if any change.



Are you saying that you connected the USB cable for the ARC's mic to an USB cable extension and it worked fine?


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13542688
> 
> 
> After 2 hours I have it upgraded, it is awesome. It is small at first, but after playing multiple tracks, you won't be dissappointed.



Bill,


I completed mine tonight also. I upgraded from 1.12s to 1.31 without any issues. The ARC-1 process also completed without any issues. I then listened to Brothers in Arms (DVD-Audio) and it sounded great. I switched the EQ in and out and it made a significant difference.


Buddy


----------



## tngiloy

My ARC-1 has been on order for about three weeks and right now I hope I don't get it for another month.

My D2 is working great. Since I recieved it back a few months ago after having the video board upgraded (from green to red, and v1.11 to v 1.20) it has been working flawlessly. Video greatly improved on many levels, and the audio was excellent as always.(there was a post a while back wondering about upgrading from the AVM to the D2 for audio-DO IT!!).

But after reading the post here lately, especially from Bob P., I am very hesitant to upgrade to v1.31 and ARC-1. It seems that Anthem has once again released a product before they sufficiently tested it.

When I upgraded my AVM-30 to the D2 years ago it came with one of the early v's and a video board that didn't work well. I upgraded to v 1.6 which worked better, then to v1.11 which worked better. They are now on version v1.31x and it seems they need to to go to v1.31y or v1.31z before it is ready for general consumption. I assumed that the beta testing was supposed to work out the bugs before it was released to the public.

The fact that Anthem takes the time and effort to to make upgrades to its software is commendable.

The fact that Anthem releases products before they have been properly tested is unsettling.

If we are to used as beta testers we should reap the benefits they receive.

When I spend $6500++ for an ssp I expect it to work without problems. I expect that the 'bugs' have been worked out. I would have bought a microsoft a/v processor if I wanted to spend endless hours trying to get it work as advertised.

Until Bob gets a firmware that works properly I will postpone any upgrade to my D2.

You can call me paranoid. I prefer to think of myself as overly cautious.

I'll be eagerly checking this thread eagerly anticipating the coming of the v1.31!! that works as seamlesly as v1.11 or v120.

Tom


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13543788
> 
> 
> Are you saying that you connected the USB cable for the ARC's mic to an USB cable extension and it worked fine?



For the FW update from 1.20 > 1.31 the Keyspan was and its included cable were attached to an additional 15-20 ft extension (although a good quality one... OK. it was think hahaa).


For running the ARC-1 the laptops connection to the D2 remained the same, and I connected the ARC-1s Mics' cable to one of my G15 Keyboards extra USB slots. I also had my mouse attacked to the keyboard. So yeah, in effect they were both connected via extensions and the Mic even to a splitter/multiport of sorts.


Oh and then of course just to make it as complex as possible I ran it on a Vista laptop.


Either I was very lucky or this stuff isn't as finicky as we worry about. Of course you are better safe than sorry.


The only advice I would give is to avoid switching between apps while either ARC or 1.31 are running. During my first 1.31 update attempt I did some surfing and it failed. I just hit the install button again and it worked fine the second time. The only difference being that I didn't leave the update app to go to IE and back.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13543921
> 
> 
> My ARC-1 has been on order for about three weeks and right now I hope I don't get it for another month.
> 
> My D2 is working great. Since I recieved it back a few months ago after having the video board upgraded (from green to red, and v1.11 to v 1.20) it has been working flawlessly. Video greatly improved on many levels, and the audio was excellent as always.(there was a post a while back wondering about upgrading from the AVM to the D2 for audio-DO IT!!).
> 
> But after reading the post here lately, especially from Bob P., I am very hesitant to upgrade to v1.31 and ARC-1. It seems that Anthem has once again released a product before they sufficiently tested it.
> 
> When I upgraded my AVM-30 to the D2 years ago it came with one of the early v's and a video board that didn't work well. I upgraded to v 1.6 which worked better, then to v1.11 which worked better. They are now on version v1.31x and it seems they need to to go to v1.31y or v1.31z before it is ready for general consumption. I assumed that the beta testing was supposed to work out the bugs before it was released to the public.
> 
> The fact that Anthem takes the time and effort to to make upgrades to its software is commendable.
> 
> The fact that Anthem releases products before they have been properly tested is unsettling.
> 
> If we are to used as beta testers we should reap the benefits they receive.
> 
> When I spend $6500++ for an ssp I expect it to work without problems. I expect that the 'bugs' have been worked out. I would have bought a microsoft a/v processor if I wanted to spend endless hours trying to get it work as advertised.
> 
> Until Bob gets a firmware that works properly I will postpone any upgrade to my D2.
> 
> You can call me paranoid. I prefer to think of myself as overly cautious.
> 
> I'll be eagerly checking this thread eagerly anticipating the coming of the v1.31!! that works as seamlesly as v1.11 or v120.
> 
> Tom



I have a fairly complex setup and have used every version of Anthem's firmware since 1.11. For me, 1.31 is rock solid. Bob P has had a bad experience with his upgrade so far (and maybe that was just a bad flash and has nothing at all to do with Anthem), but I would not take that to mean Anthem has released an untested piece of firmware.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13542593
> 
> 
> I wished I had a way of getting back to the original software, 1.21, that came with my D2. It would be nice if Anthem would include a CD with the original software that was installed on your D2. Hopefully, it is a software problem because it would be easier to fix.



I might be able to locate 1.21d.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13544260
> 
> 
> I have a fairly complex setup and have used every version of Anthem's firmware since 1.11. For me, 1.31 is rock solid. Bob P has had a bad experience with his upgrade so far (and maybe that was just a bad flash and has nothing at all to do with Anthem), but I would not take that to mean Anthem has released an untested piece of firmware.



I hope you're right. But it does appear from many recent posts that their testing continues.

Chances are excellent that my impatience and eagerness will overcome my caution when my ARC-1 does arrive, and I will install the software.

I just hope I don't have to spend hours of international telephone calls and tweaking and to get it up and running. I would like to install the software, run the ARC-1 and then sit back and A/B, and enjoy.

Tom


----------



## Milt99

tngiloy,

I think you may be overreacting just a bit here.

I had a bad firmware upgrade experience some time ago that required the manual eprom erase. Not for the faint of heart. But at the very worst you know that Anthem will always make good. Always.

While there certainly have been issues with previous releases, it seems that 1.31 is as good a release as we've seen.

There's a good reason that very few other companies even attempt what Anthem has succeed at with the D2. That Bob got bit has more than a little irony considering the selflessness with which he dispenses incredibly accurate, clear and concise advice here.


On one level, the solution to your dilemma is really an easy one. Wait.

Ah but it's not quite that simple is it?










I have a little bit of trepidation myself but there's no way I'm not installing ARC-1. I just wish I would get that call from my dealer.

I'm calling them tomorrow.


----------



## bhrvatin

I am lovin it. However the install was a little painful. The USB/mic cable gave me problems on two different laptops. The mic wasn't recognizable by Windows after the initial install. I switched to a shorter cable and no glitches. I am curious if this is a laptop/USB thing - USB power related or something. I did have both my laptops on AC just to be sure. The included mic cable is at least ten feet. When I used a shorter cable - bang bang bang right through the measurements without a hitch.


I am also puzzled by the mic stand. The minimum height is about 28" which would put the mic about 8" about where the center of listeners heads are. My seat cushions do not come off. The funny thing is, the mic stand is telescoping, I don't know why this thing has to be so tall. I ended up using electrical tape to fix the ARC-1 mic to my camera tripod. This way I got the mic closest to where my ears are.


As for the sound - I noticed the greatest improvement in the bass response of my system. I have spent countless hours of measurements w/ SPL and tuning using acoustic paneling in strategic locations. I know exactly where my room-mode-based peaks and dips are. The ARC-1 smoothed out things so well and integrated my sub seamlessly with the system - this kit is every bit worth $400. I listened to Ray Charles Genius Loves Company multichannel SACD tonight, I hope to get a lot more listening in tomorrow (and at higher volume levels when my kids aren't sleeping.) I am really impressed with the improvements the ARC-1 has made.


I hate to be picky but I should be honest - the value in the ARC-1 is in the results and the software (half of which is in our firmware.) I thought the kit components could have been of higher quality. They are basically the same mic stand etc. you can get at Guitar Center - they're nothing special - and I am suspect of the USB cable too(see above.) However, once you take your measurements and upload the results to the D2, you're done with the kit. It can go back into the box and into storage until you have a need to re-run the calibration. (So it doesn't make sense for Anthem to invest much in the mic stand & cable.) I guess what I am trying to say is that for the money spent on the kit, the software itself and its end result is where the value is. I'm diggin it, that's for sure!


Bart


----------



## misterdoggy

I had no problems in the 1.31 updgrade and went smoothly.


1.1 ARC software had a minor glitch with missing files that were found on the installation disc 1.0 that came with the software.


Works great Only I put the mic according to the picture on the floor just in front of where I sit on the couch. Do you think I should re-run it (already put it away) putting the mic exactly on the place where I sit ?


Its about 3 feet in front of my head. ..


If this is the case I would have to put the mic only "on" the chairs and couch and not on the floor just in front of those positions


Is it that precise Hmmmmm


----------



## misterdoggy

Living in France right on a Lake my house is at the end of the electrical line in our area. The normal voltage is 230v, but in my house can fall to 190v on cold winter days when everyone is using more current.


I'm using a step down transformer to get 110v. When the D2 powers on it triggers 3 Amps - 2 mcintosh 501's and 1 mcintosh 7 channel 207 and has been for the last couple of days power on and power off because its the surge of powering on draws too much electricity and it goes into protection.


Fortunately I have a Furman voltage regulator which keeps the power fairly steady but it can handle only up to 6 Amps. I have the 2 satellite dishes and only the D2 hooked in to it. Seems to be working fine now, but was wondering how much current the D2 draws. It says maximum 170watts but how much does that translate in to Amps.


I think 6 amps is a lot and I am probably very safe, but wanted to check


I don't think anyone should shy away from the 1.31 it was easy to install and everything worked fine and I did it on the very first day I owned the machine.


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13545514
> 
> 
> Living in France right on a Lake my house is at the end of the electrical line in our area. The normal voltage is 230v, but in my house can fall to 190v on cold winter days when everyone is using more current.
> 
> 
> I'm using a step down transformer to get 110v. When the D2 powers on it triggers 3 Amps - 2 mcintosh 501's and 1 mcintosh 7 channel 207 and has been for the last couple of days power on and power off because its the surge of powering on draws too much electricity and it goes into protection.
> 
> 
> Fortunately I have a Furman voltage regulator which keeps the power fairly steady but it can handle only up to 6 Amps. I have the 2 satellite dishes and only the D2 hooked in to it. Seems to be working fine now, but was wondering how much current the D2 draws. It says maximum 170watts but how much does that translate in to Amps.
> 
> 
> I think 6 amps is a lot and I am probably very safe, but wanted to check
> 
> 
> I don't think anyone should shy away from the 1.31 it was easy to install and everything worked fine and I did it on the very first day I owned the machine.



Watts are a measure of power, not current. Power = Current X Voltage. If the D2 draws a maximum of 170 watts @ 110V, its maximum current is about 1.5 amps.


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13545571
> 
> 
> Watts are a measure of power, not current. Power = Current X Voltage. If the D2 draws a maximum of 170 watts @ 110V, its maximum current is about 1.5 amps.



The Furman voltage regulator can handle 6 amps, but the D2 keeps shutting down at startup. It powers on then powers off.


Not all the time. ??


Im not sure what is causing it now. I originally thought the triggers to the Amps, then thought the power draw of the amps coming on (most likely) but now that is has constant 100v-115v it should not happen unless after powering up, the draw brings the current down so far that there is a slight "surge" back up afterwards ??


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13545620
> 
> 
> The Furman voltage regulator can handle 6 amps, but the D2 keeps shutting down at startup. It powers on then powers off.
> 
> 
> Not all the time. ??
> 
> 
> Im not sure what is causing it now. I originally thought the triggers to the Amps, then thought the power draw of the amps coming on (most likely) but now that is has constant 100v-115v it should not happen unless after powering up, the draw brings the current down so far that there is a slight "surge" back up afterwards ??



I don't think the problem is related to the 6A limit on the regulator, I think the regulator may not be supplying enough current because it's starved for power. Are the mcintosh amps on the same circuit? ... I'd try unplugging them.


----------



## misterdoggy

when I unplugged the amps last night the problem stopped


I thought the job of the regulator was to keep the current constant output at 230v with a varying input


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13545667
> 
> 
> when I unplugged the amps last night the problem stopped
> 
> 
> I thought the job of the regulator was to keep the current constant output at 230v with a varying input



OK, time to pray for warmer weather in france










The regulator will keep the output voltage constant, not the current (current can vary). The total output power can't exceed the total input power of the regulator. Your equipment is drawing more power than the circuit can supply.


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13545680
> 
> 
> OK, time to pray for warmer weather in france
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The regulator will keep the output voltage constant, not the current (current can vary). The total output power can't exceed the total input power of the regulator. Your equipment is drawing more power than the circuit can supply.



I thought Voltage and Current were the same thing ?


It states on the regulator that the current can vary on the input but it will consistently provide 230v on the output.


So what is current if not the 230v that arrives ?


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13542856
> 
> 
> What did you upgrade? firmware, arc, or both?



I upgraded both, it was a task. I lost all of my setup but because I kept some notes from my previous install, everything is good. The usb mic cable is a bit short I was just able to stretch the usb/serial and the mic cable to my laptop sitting on my right front speaker. I'd say the mic cable is 12'.


It was well worth the coin, even though you will only use once until upgradeitis kicks in.


My Salk HT3's have truly disappeared, it is a wall of sound. It also did wonders for the bass.


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13545724
> 
> 
> I upgraded both, it was a task. I lost all of my setup but because I kept some notes from my previous install, everything is good. The usb mic cable is a bit short I was just able to stretch the usb/serial and the mic cable to my laptop sitting on my right front speaker. I'd say the mic cable is 12'.
> 
> 
> It was well worth the coin, even though you will only use once until upgradeitis kicks in.
> 
> 
> My Salk HT3's have truly disappeared, it is a wall of sound. It also did wonders for the bass.



did you put the mic on your sofa or on the floor just in front ?


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13545497
> 
> 
> Works great Only I put the mic according to the picture on the floor just in front of where I sit on the couch. Do you think I should re-run it (already put it away) putting the mic exactly on the place where I sit ?
> 
> 
> Its about 3 feet in front of my head. ..
> 
> 
> If this is the case I would have to put the mic only "on" the chairs and couch and not on the floor just in front of those positions
> 
> 
> Is it that precise Hmmmmm



I think you should get better results by positioning the mic as close as possible to where the center point between a listener's ears are. Standing waves do not impact the entire room the same way, a few inches one way or another can make a huge reading when you are measuring room response with an SPL meter or the ARC-1. I have spent many hours prior to using my ARC-1 with an SPL meter and I can tell you both scientifically and through experience that there can be big changes in some frequencies by moving the listener just a matter of inches.


I am curious, has anyone on the forum gone back into the "advanced" mode of the room correction software and adjusted the crossover settings and re-run the calculator? My xover settings are all over the place and although the systems sounds great (and I have faith in the ARC-1 doing what it is supposed to), I am curious to hear how the room correction if I ran a straight xover frequence for all channels. The ARC-1 set:


studio 60s at 35 Hz

cc470 at 60 Hz

l/r adp470s at 110 Hz

rear adp470s at 115 Hz

sub at 110 Hz


I want to set them all at 80 Hz and rerun the calculator - and make this the movie mode, leaving the original ARC-1 settings in music mode. Has anyone done this?


Bart


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bass response can vary significantly over a distance of just a couple feet. Or even less. Sometimes moving the subwoofer itself just a couple of inches makes a big difference with how its bass output couples to the standing wave nodes of the room. So it is best to place the ARC mic as close as possible to listener head positioning. Whether this produces noticeably different ARC results than some other positioning depends on your particular listening room.


On the issue of manually tweaking the cross over settings, it is easy enough to try it, but I would suggest you spend a few weeks listening to what the automatic ARC results produced first. Then try your tweaks and see if you can hear a difference and whether that difference is actually an improvement.

--Bob


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13546320
> 
> 
> On the issue of manually tweaking the cross over settings, it is easy enough to try it, but I would suggest you spend a few weeks listening to what the automatic ARC results produced first. Then try your tweaks and see if you can hear a difference and whether that difference is actually an improvement.



Right on, thank you Bob. I think what I will do is set the Music BM to my previous xover settings and turn off the EQ, and then use Music/Movie modes to A/B the before and after effects of ARC-1.


BTW the software defaulted all my sources to EQ off. I had to go into each and manually turn the EQ on. I checked this out and made the changes before I did any listening.


Bart


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13545758
> 
> 
> did you put the mic on your sofa or on the floor just in front ?



I put it on the sofa for the first 3 positions, on a chair for the 4th and on the floor directly in front of where I sit for the 5th.


----------



## Krops

Maybe this is a silly question, but does the ARC also perform "speaker correction"? For example, if a speaker was inherently too bright, too boomy, etc., will the ARC give it a flatter frequency curve?


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13545698
> 
> 
> I thought Voltage and Current were the same thing ?
> 
> 
> It states on the regulator that the current can vary on the input but it will consistently provide 230v on the output.
> 
> 
> So what is current if not the 230v that arrives ?



The common analogy used to explain the difference is that current is kind of like water (electrons) flowing through a pipe, and voltage is the pressure/intensity with which it flows.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13546320
> 
> 
> Bass response can vary significantly over a distance of just a couple feet. Or even less. Sometimes moving the subwoofer itself just a couple of inches makes a big difference with how its bass output couples to the standing wave nodes of the room. So it is best to place the ARC mic as close as possible to listener head positioning. Whether this produces noticeably different ARC results than some other positioning depends on your particular listening room.
> 
> 
> On the issue of manually tweaking the cross over settings, it is easy enough to try it, but I would suggest you spend a few weeks listening to what the automatic ARC results produced first. Then try your tweaks and see if you can hear a difference and whether that difference is actually an improvement.
> 
> --Bob



We varied the height of the Mic in the 5 locations we used for doing sweeps. The position for the mic closest to where I usually sit was very close to the height of my head.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13547334
> 
> 
> Maybe this is a silly question, but does the ARC also perform "speaker correction"? For example, if a speaker was inherently too bright, too boomy, etc., will the ARC give it a flatter frequency curve?



Yes. ARC doesn't know the difference between audio altered by the room's inherent response and by what a less than perfect speaker can produce.


However the algorithms are optimized to deal with typical room response issues. Furthermore, ARC can't replace information that has been lost by the speaker. So it is still the case that better speakers/amps with ARC will produce better results. Similarly, it will usually be the case that a properly designed acoustically treated room with ARC will produce better results. Audio AMP performance is also a factor here.


Essentially, if your audio is perfect to begin with you will likely get better results (with or without ARC) than if it has any imperfections that ARC then tries to correct.


EXAMPLE: The power amp and speakers are incapable of faithfully reproducing transients in the audio (dynamic peaks). RESULT: There will still be improper transients in the audio after ARC. If the information never makes it through the audio chain and out the speakers, ARC can't recreate it.


EXAMPLE: The subwoofer doesn't go below 30 Hz. RESULT: There will still be no bass below 30Hz after ARC. Again, if the sub can't produce it to begin with, ARC has nothing to work with.


Nevertheless, getting acoustically perfect audio components (and room setup) is beyond the budget of most folks -- not to mention the time it takes to research and fiddle with the setup. And if you don't already have audio perfection, ARC makes it A WHOLE LOT EASIER (and faster and cheaper!) to get quite a bit closer to perfection -- within the limits of what your components can do. I.e., you will get the best you CAN get from your components and room pretty much automatically. And for MOST home theater enthusiasts (and music listeners) -- folks who haven't had a professional come in and tune their room and audio -- the results should be quite dramatically superior to what they are currently listening to.


So yes, ARC can help tackle typical response curve issues from your speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13548102
> 
> 
> We varied the height of the Mic in the 5 locations we used for doing sweeps. The position for the mic closest to where I usually sit was very close to the height of my head.



When I get around to it, I'm going to see what happens when I do some sweeps at seated listening locations and other sweeps at standing head height locations behind the sofa that is the primary seating (in the middle of the room). So perhaps 5 along the sofa (the primary one being sofa center at seated ear height) and 5 more at standing ear height behind the sofa, and see what that produces.

--Bob


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13548187
> 
> 
> Yes. ARC doesn't know the difference between audio altered by the room's inherent response and by what a less than perfect speaker can produce.
> 
> ...



Thanks - that is what I was hoping for. I have a very untreated room with concrete walls, so I'm hoping the ARC will work some magic here. I was told by my dealer in NYC it should arrive early next week. Unfortunately I will be out of town until the end of the week


----------



## ninja12

I just received a call from my dealer that my ARC-1 has arrived. I'm on my way to get it.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13545724
> 
> 
> I upgraded both, it was a task. I lost all of my setup but because I kept some notes from my previous install, everything is good. The usb mic cable is a bit short I was just able to stretch the usb/serial and the mic cable to my laptop sitting on my right front speaker. I'd say the mic cable is 12'.
> 
> 
> It was well worth the coin, even though you will only use once until upgradeitis kicks in.
> 
> 
> My Salk HT3's have truly disappeared, it is a wall of sound. It also did wonders for the bass.



Yeah its amazing. Just ran ARC-1 again after adding some room treatments (OK, Drapes, Area Rug and Wall hanging behind the listening position do count and it's about all I can esthetically add).


Since there is no NHL Hockey on ATM to do any real critical listening I am listening to Chesky "The Worlds Greatest Audiophile Vocal Recordings" SACD.


It's so minimalist its crazy. When people talk about lossless being the absence of noise this must be what they are talking about. You can hear the silence its so noticeably dead. Every note, every plunk, strum, piano key, drum hit and vocalization are so clear, separate and distinct its hypnotic.


Hmmm, Maybe Hockey isn't the best source for critical listening... Don Cherry or no Don Cherry. Canadians play Buffalo tonight so I can double-check







. Go Habs Go.


Cheers,


Richard


PS.


----------



## barhoram

I just upgraded to the latest 1.31 firware, and everything seems fine. I did notice that when a SD-DVD played on my Pioneer Elite 59AVI via component switches from main menu to playing the start of a DVD, I always get a quick blue screen. Once the movie is playing, the picture is fine.....just always a quick bluescreen on the start. Anyone else experience this....wondering if it is nomal?


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/13546622
> 
> 
> Right on, thank you Bob. I think what I will do is set the Music BM to my previous xover settings and turn off the EQ, and then use Music/Movie modes to A/B the before and after effects of ARC-1.
> 
> 
> BTW the software defaulted all my sources to EQ off. I had to go into each and manually turn the EQ on. I checked this out and made the changes before I did any listening.
> 
> 
> Bart



I think this only happens after the first running of ARC-1 (The setting of all the Room EQ's = OFF. Probably because that is the when the setting is created and it defaults to off. When I reran today I noticed that the last message on the screen ifs to go into the menus and turn it on for each source you want.


I went in to double-check and it was still ON for my sources since I had already done this after noticing I had missed a couple the first time.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. Misterdoggy, I would also suggest the mic go as close to the listening position (between the ears) as possible. In fact as someone else stated and then did, I may use my laser level tripod to rerun ARC-1 at some point because even with cushions adjusted the mic is still probably about 4-5 inches higher than my ears are when sitting.


After all, you really want the twang of the puck ringing off the post to sound just right


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/13550435
> 
> 
> I just upgraded to the latest 1.31 firware, and everything seems fine. I did notice that when a SD-DVD played on my Pioneer Elite 59AVI via component switches from main menu to playing the start of a DVD, I always get a quick blue screen. Once the movie is playing, the picture is fine.....just always a quick bluescreen on the start. Anyone else experience this....wondering if it is nomal?



I don't recall seeing any video muting screens (I have my D2 set to gray not blue) between menus and movie from my 59avi with V1.31 on the D2. I'm using HDMI 480i from the 59avi.


Make sure you have Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF for that input so that the D2 is not trying to resync with the video input all the time.

--Bob


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/13550435
> 
> 
> I just upgraded to the latest 1.31 firware, and everything seems fine. I did notice that when a SD-DVD played on my Pioneer Elite 59AVI via component switches from main menu to playing the start of a DVD, I always get a quick blue screen. Once the movie is playing, the picture is fine.....just always a quick bluescreen on the start. Anyone else experience this....wondering if it is nomal?



I'm still on firmware 1.29k, haven't yet jumped to 1.31. I occasionaly get a flash of a blue screen when powering up a component, switching source inputs, etc... Also, on blu-ray discs, some of the previews and menus at the begining of a disc aren't in 1080p, and sometimes the blue screen flashes for a second while it switches video formats, I wouldn't worry about it too much, it's probably normal.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13550482
> 
> 
> I don't recall seeing any video muting screens (I have my D2 set to gray not blue) between menus and movie from my 59avi with V1.31 on the D2. I'm using HDMI 480i from the 59avi.
> 
> 
> Make sure you have Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF for that input so that the D2 is not trying to resync with the video input all the time.
> 
> --Bob



I seem to get video mute briefly when switching between sources with different output resolutions. Well actually since I pretty much only switch between sources with different resolutions it could be switching period.


If I switch to quickly it really gets pissed off and I get alternately flashing zillion colored pixel/snow field and attempted locks onto the picture until I restart. This actually also pisses of my TV which then in turn rarely shuts itself down.


This IS NOT NEW TO 1.31 FOR ME so don't go panicking that this is a 1.31 thing lol. Just thought it was normal.


For example in listening to some SACD's today I was switching the OPPO's output through 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i and that right pissed the D2 off requiring a restart. After restarting it flickered a couple more times then settled onto the image. Is this not normal lol. Figured it for a normal HDMI handshake BS symptom and not D2 related as much.


IE. I figured that due to HDMI handshaking compounded with source resolutions changes it is just a whole heck of a lot for the D2 (Or any processor) to deal with at the same time or even worse in rapid succession (the OPPO example).


If this isn't normal I guess I should check with Anthem. Let me know your thoughts.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. AGAIN, THIS WAS ALWASY THE CASE AND NOT FW 1.31 SPECIFIC.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13550611
> 
> 
> I'm still on firmware 1.29k, haven't yet jumped to 1.31. I occasionaly get a flash of a blue screen when powering up a component, switching source inputs, etc... Also, on blu-ray discs, some of the previews and menus at the begining of a disc aren't in 1080p, and sometimes the blue screen flashes for a second while it switches video formats, I wouldn't worry about it too much, it's probably normal.



Same symptoms I have always had and tried to describe above.


Is this normal?


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13550744
> 
> 
> Same symptoms I have always had and tried to describe above.
> 
> 
> Is this normal?
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Try going to the Video Output menu and change the mute color to anything but "Black" and save the changes. This may cure the flashing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Any time there is a new HDMI handshake you will get at least a couple seconds of image scrambling. This is normal. You will get a new handshake each time you change input devices or input resolution from a given device. There are a few other things that can cause a new handshake as well.


But when playing SD-DVDs at HDMI 480i, I would NOT expect a new handshake to happen between the disc menus and the start of the movie. And I don't believe I'm seeing any from my Pioneer 59avi.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13550814
> 
> 
> Any time there is a new HDMI handshake you will get at least a couple seconds of image scrambling. This is normal. You will get a new handshake each time you change input devices or input resolution from a given device. There are a few other things that can cause a new handshake as well.
> 
> 
> But when playing SD-DVDs at HDMI 480i, I would NOT expect a new handshake to happen between the disc menus and the start of the movie. And I don't believe I'm seeing any from my Pioneer 59avi.
> 
> --Bob



No I don't get them for SD DVD menus etc. It is mostly for source switching or where the input resolution may be changing (BR menus/movie or extras/movie and not always.


Actually I guess the PS3 blinks occasionally even mid movie. Just blinked (green screen) when changing scenes in the I am Legend BD Extras "The Science Of I Am Legend"


Anyway, I figured the source switching was normal.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. Maybe I will switch to grey screen to minimize the vilual impact.


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13548187
> 
> 
> Nevertheless, getting acoustically perfect audio components (and room setup) is beyond the budget of most folks -- not to mention the time it takes to research and fiddle with the setup. And if you don't already have audio perfection, ARC makes it A WHOLE LOT EASIER (and faster and cheaper!) to get quite a bit closer to perfection -- within the limits of what your components can do. I.e., you will get the best you CAN get from your components and room pretty much automatically. And for MOST home theater enthusiasts (and music listeners) -- folks who haven't had a professional come in and tune their room and audio -- the results should be quite dramatically superior to what they are currently listening to.
> 
> 
> So yes, ARC can help tackle typical response curve issues from your speakers.
> 
> --Bob





That is what I am hoping to get out of it and why I upgraded to the D2. I am hoping by this time next week I will be in audio Nirvana....at least as far as my ears have experienced so far.


----------



## panners

Hi, i was wondering, does the USB serial adapter have to be a keyspan one. Im in edmonton Alberta, and I cant find one. I have found other brands.


Thanks


Shane


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/13552014
> 
> 
> Hi, i was wondering, does the USB serial adapter have to be a keyspan one. Im in edmonton Alberta, and I cant find one. I have found other brands.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Shane



Nick recommended IOGEAR or Keyspan. Not sure which model(s) of IOGEAR are best, but I would suggest not buying the cheapest one and whichever you do get ensure that you go online and install the very latest firmware.


You can always do what I did and eMail Anthem (Nick) and ask. Send him a few Make/Models you can find and ask if he recommends any.


Alternatively you can always order the Keyspan online. If you waiting for your ARC-1 to arrive anyway you probably won't see any delay in getting to play with it.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/13552014
> 
> 
> Hi, i was wondering, does the USB serial adapter have to be a keyspan one. Im in edmonton Alberta, and I cant find one. I have found other brands.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Shane



You can order the USA-19HS on-line direct from Keyspan:

http://www.keyspan.com/products/usa19hs/ 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The good news is that Anthem believes they are on the track of why my Video Source Adjust settings don't survive a power-cycle. It appears to be a somewhat rare timing issue as suspected. The bad news is that their first try at fixing it has not yet fixed it. I just installed V1.31a from their test software site (using Windows XP on Bootcamp on a Leopard Macbook with the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter).


On the other hand, the good news is that the On-Screen Display of my Setup menu is back! As is the ability to input and scale video from my Polk XM Radio receiver. Nick says they had a problem early on where some electronic parts changed value after a period of use, causing loss of S-video (including the Setup menu display). That's been fixed (although there may still be units out there that need a hardware fix). However there appears to be a new, SOFTWARE problem that is also causing loss of S-video in some cases. In any event, this version of the software seems to leave S-video working in my D2.


I'm still seeing B/W-static-hash-like flashes when output resolution changes from my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR. But it appears to be locking in a bit faster with this latest software.


Stay tuned.


ETA: NOTE that the S-video fix mentioned above may be pure coincidence -- the luck of how program memory was left after the install. Nick did *NOT* tell me he thought V1.31a contained a fix specific to my S-video problems. The impression I got is that Anthem is still trying to nail down the cause of that. Also the problem locking into the S-video user interface from the Velodyne subwoofer remains -- but that's NEVER worked.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For people who already have their ARC:


Do ARC settings get saved as part of a Save User Settings or a Save Installer Settings in the Setup / Save and Restore Settings menu?


And in particular, can you save two DIFFERENT sets of ARC settings in those two memories to make it easier to A/B compare two different sets of ARC results?

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13552385
> 
> 
> For people who already have their ARC:
> 
> 
> Do ARC settings get saved as part of a Save User Settings or a Save Installer Settings in the Setup / Save and Restore Settings menu?
> 
> 
> And in particular, can you save two DIFFERENT sets of ARC settings in those two memories to make it easier to A/B compare two different sets of ARC results?
> 
> --Bob



Well from what I can see ARC changes Speaker Config (Cross overs Etc), Speaker Calibration (volume +/- etc). All these would get saved right?


If its changing other things I am not sure which they are and/or whether they would get saved.


I would think that playing around with room EQ ON/OFF as someone suggested would be the best way to A/B as long as Room EQ OFF = your last manual settings.


Note: I am sure your way would work also, but there would be a much longer lag for the switching between the two.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/13552014
> 
> 
> Hi, i was wondering, does the USB serial adapter have to be a keyspan one. Im in edmonton Alberta, and I cant find one. I have found other brands.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Shane



If you are using a USB serial adapter, the Keyspan adapter is one of the adapters Anthem recommends (DON'T use the one from "The Shack"). If you have a PCMCIA slot consider a SIIG SIngle Serial PC card. Adapters and PCMCIA cards are available at NewEgg.com.


----------



## Milt99

Hey Richard,

make sure you update us on the ARC-1.2 hockey experience









After reading of more guys getting ARC this week I broke down and called my dealer. No update. Between their 2 stores they have 8 ARC kits on order.

BTW, anyone else here order through Definitive Audio?


----------



## Tim Winders

Got my ARC-1 today. Ran a quick auto run when the kids were out today. Haven't had a change to really listen. Here are a couple quick images from the results.


Front Left Speaker Results:










Subwoofer Results:










I noticed I have the same rolloff in all my speakers above 6K. I guess this is normal?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13552490
> 
> 
> Well from what I can see ARC changes Speaker Config (Cross overs Etc), Speaker Calibration (volume +/- etc). All these would get saved right?
> 
> 
> If its changing other things I am not sure which they are and/or whether they would get saved.
> 
> 
> I would think that playing around with room EQ ON/OFF as someone suggested would be the best way to A/B as long as Room EQ OFF = your last manual settings.
> 
> 
> Note: I am sure your way would work also, but there would be a much longer lag for the switching between the two.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Yes, except I want to A/B between two different ARC setups rather than between ARC and my manual, non-ARC setup.

--Bob


----------



## rmarcoot

I received my ARC-1 today. I was able to install v1.31 without problems. However, I am unable to install the ARC-1 software on my laptop. The installation begins and then I get this message


There is a problem with this Windows Installer package. A program required for this install to complete could not be run. Contact you support personnel or package vendor.


I was able to install the ARC-1 software on my desktop but it first installed Visual C++ 5 before installing the ARC-1. Everything went fine.


So I downloaded C++5 redistributable version from Microsoft.com and installed. The ARC-1 install seemed to get further (completed the blue progress bar twice) but then the same message appeared.


I have emailed support but I'm dying to give this a try and thought someone here might have a suggestion to solve this problem.


Thanks,

Randy


----------



## bool

Randy-


Does your laptop run Xp or Vista? I am just curious as my PC connected to the HT runs Vista and I was hoping I wouldn't have to install XP on a second drive just to run ARC-1 software.


Thanks


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/13553593
> 
> 
> I received my ARC-1 today. I was able to install v1.31 without problems. However, I am unable to install the ARC-1 software on my laptop. The installation begins and then I get this message
> 
> 
> There is a problem with this Windows Installer package. A program required for this install to complete could not be run. Contact you support personnel or package vendor.
> 
> 
> I was able to install the ARC-1 software on my desktop but it first installed Visual C++ 5 before installing the ARC-1. Everything went fine.
> 
> 
> So I downloaded C++5 redistributable version from Microsoft.com and installed. The ARC-1 install seemed to get further (completed the blue progress bar twice) but then the same message appeared.
> 
> 
> I have emailed support but I'm dying to give this a try and thought someone here might have a suggestion to solve this problem.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Randy



I installed from the CD tonight. The C++5 redistributable was installed first, then the Anthem software. No errors. I am running XP.


I believe you can install from the CD manually. Simply copy the AnthemRoomCorrection.exe file from the CD to a new folder on your computer. The anthem installer puts it in C:\\Program Files\\Anthem\\AnthemStatement\\AnthemRoomCorrection


In the same directoy, copy the .cal file from the CD. It will be named ######_######.cal. Where the first 6 numbers are the anthem serial number and the second are the mic serial number.


the installer will copy some other files to the same directory and create menu shortcuts, but they aren't needed for the program.


After that, run the AnthemRoomCorrection.exe file and you should be up and going.


----------



## ninja12

I received my ARC-1, and I successfully installed the software on my computer. However, when I tried to run it, it found my D2; but, it gave me an error about it could not find a valid mic. I'm thinking maybe because I was trying to run it from my desktop which has Windows 2000. Anyway, I will try it again next week because we will have company over the weekend, and the house probably will be too noisy to run it. Next week, I will try it on my laptop which is running Vista.


----------



## Milt99

Wow Tim, thanks for posting the graphs.

I wish more people would do this.

Looks like ARC did a nice job in smoothing the dips and humps there.

Looking forward to your listening impressions.


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/13553683
> 
> 
> Randy-
> 
> 
> Does your laptop run Xp or Vista? I am just curious as my PC connected to the HT runs Vista and I was hoping I wouldn't have to install XP on a second drive just to run ARC-1 software.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yes I am running Vista Basic on my laptop, and I have Vista Home Premium on my desktop where the install worked fine.


Randy


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13553742
> 
> 
> I installed from the CD tonight. The C++5 redistributable was installed first, then the Anthem software. No errors. I am running XP.
> 
> 
> I believe you can install from the CD manually. Simply copy the AnthemRoomCorrection.exe file from the CD to a new folder on your computer. The anthem installer puts it in C:\\Program Files\\Anthem\\AnthemStatement\\AnthemRoomCorrection
> 
> 
> In the same directoy, copy the .cal file from the CD. It will be named ######_######.cal. Where the first 6 numbers are the anthem serial number and the second are the mic serial number.
> 
> 
> the installer will copy some other files to the same directory and create menu shortcuts, but they aren't needed for the program.
> 
> 
> After that, run the AnthemRoomCorrection.exe file and you should be up and going.



Thanks Tim


I did launch the program directly from the CD but did not try to run it. I have just moved the two files as you suggested and I'm off to give it a try.


Thanks again,

Randy


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13553810
> 
> 
> Wow Tim, thanks for posting the graphs.
> 
> I wish more people would do this.
> 
> Looks like ARC did a nice job in smoothing the dips and humps there.
> 
> Looking forward to your listening impressions.



I was very surprised (and pleased) with the graph results. Of course, the listening will be the key.


Looking at the graphs, I have a noticable dip on the front right speaker at 150Hz.











The ARC-1 did a great job at fixing it, but it's still there. I don't know if this is indicative of a problem with the speaker, or room / location. Here's where I wish I knew more about this stuff. The results from the other speakers is very similar to the front left.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13553513
> 
> 
> Yes, except I want to A/B between two different ARC setups rather than between ARC and my manual, non-ARC setup.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah sorry I meant to say that you could just replicate the ARC-1 settings manually in your setup then rerun ARC which would overwrite those.


If it works the way I think it does then you would be able to A/B the two ARCs.


One thing I was surprised about (Probably cause I just have no clue hahaa) is that subsequent ARC runs do not build off the previous run.


What I mean is that it appears (to me at least) that the ARC sweeps are clean (no processing, full range for each speaker at baseline audio levels) and records pretty much just the rooms effect on that native signal.


I had thought/hoped that I would be able to rerun ARC and have the new sweeps already take into account the previous ARC run (which should already be much closer to the idea/target).


This would also have enabled me to have an idea of how close the calculated measures that were applied to the D2 actually got my system to the target.


As it stands now, each subsequent ARC run (The Measure/Sweeps portion look almost identical and the system pretty much resets everything from a clean slate each time. Any changes I did see from one to another run would only have been based on the changes I made to the room.


The irony there (or maybe its to be expected for all I know about acoustics. I get a nose bleed whenever I try going past first order reflections) is that adding carpet, drapes and a well hanging didn't change the settings that the ARC uploaded to my D2 lol. At least the crossovers are the same while the volume adjust may have changed slightly, but this also happened with no room changes so who knows.


At the end of the day, (Coles notes version) was that I thought I would be able to run, rerun and keep fine tuning the results.


Looks like I will need to dig into the Advanced settings and frankly I have no idea what making any changes to most of those setting would/could do to the end result so at this point there isn't much point.


The good news is that it still does sound better and I have no regrets.


Maybe a future upgrade to the software would allow the Measurement sweeps to be generated with the current D2 settings in effect rather than baselines again.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13553775
> 
> 
> I received my ARC-1, and I successfully installed the software on my computer. However, when I tried to run it, it found my D2; but, it gave me an error about it could not find a valid mic. I'm thinking maybe because I was trying to run it from my desktop which has Windows 2000. Anyway, I will try it again next week because we will have company over the weekend, and the house probably will be too noisy to run it. Next week, I will try it on my laptop which is running Vista.



Hahaa, OK seriously, I should just copy and paste a post every page that says

*"I ran everything on a VISTA Business Edition SP1" Laptop and everything went fine"*











Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13553810
> 
> 
> Wow Tim, thanks for posting the graphs.
> 
> I wish more people would do this.
> 
> Looks like ARC did a nice job in smoothing the dips and humps there.
> 
> Looking forward to your listening impressions.



I can't post my graphs (no where to host them), but I offered to send them to anyone who wanted to post them.


I have the graphs from three runs.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## BruiserG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13553894
> 
> 
> I was very surprised (and pleased) with the graph results. Of course, the listening will be the key.
> 
> 
> Looking at the graphs, I have a noticable dip on the front right speaker at 150Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ARC-1 did a great job at fixing it, but it's still there. I don't know if this is indicative of a problem with the speaker, or room / location. Here's where I wish I knew more about this stuff. The results from the other speakers is very similar to the front left.



Hi Tim,


Could clarify the lines on the graph? Is the "Measured" line the before and the "Calculated" line the after the arc is applied? Or is the green what the computer calculates to be best response with ARC applied, and the red the actual response with ARC applied? Its not clear to me based on how it is labeled. If it's the latter, is it possible still possible to see the before graph somewhere else?


Thanks,


Ed


BTW - Per my dealer my ARC is expected on Tuesday. However, I've already upgraded to 1.31 and installed the software with no issues, so just waiting on the hardware now.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BruiserG* /forum/post/13553987
> 
> 
> Hi Tim,
> 
> 
> Could clarify the lines on the graph? Is the "Measured" line the before and the "Calculated" line the after the arc is applied? Or is the green what the computer calculates to be best response with ARC applied, and the red the actual response with ARC applied? Its not clear to me based on how it is labeled. If it's the latter, is it possible still possible to see the before graph somewhere else?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Ed
> 
> 
> BTW - Per my dealer my ARC is expected on Tuesday. However, I've already upgraded to 1.31 and installed the software with no issues, so just waiting on the hardware now.



Measured is that the ARC-1 sweeps measure. So what you have now.


Target is the IDEAL.


Calculated is what the ARC-1 thinks the results will be once it applies its Calculated changes. There is no re-sweep to see if the changes actually achieve the calculated targets.


I assume it is probably pretty close otherwise I don't see how it would have been released. See my note above about wishing I could re-run the ARC sweeps with the changes in effect to see how it worked and/or fine tune the results.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BruiserG* /forum/post/13553987
> 
> 
> Hi Tim,
> 
> 
> Could clarify the lines on the graph?



What Richard said.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13553961
> 
> 
> I can't post my graphs (no where to host them), but I offered to send them to anyone who wanted to post them.
> 
> 
> I have the graphs from three runs.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Anyone who wants to post their graphs, let me know and I'll put them up on my server. I wish there was an easier way to get the graphs out of the results. The quickest thing I could think of was a simple screen shot.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13553254
> 
> 
> Hey Richard,
> 
> make sure you update us on the ARC-1.2 hockey experience
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading of more guys getting ARC this week I broke down and called my dealer. No update. Between their 2 stores they have 8 ARC kits on order.
> 
> BTW, anyone else here order through Definitive Audio?



If you mean Defintive Audio in Washington state, yes. I put in the order Feb 13th.


I just called my sales person and asked what's up. He didn't know and was going to call the Paradigm/Anthem rep. I have a feeling the Pacific NW might be down on the list...










I thought I might get into the queue nice and early, but it doesn't look like that worked.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Once you have screen captured such images, you can also host them in a free account at, say, www.photobucket.com 


Log into your account there (in your web browser) and "upload" the image files from your computer. Then just post the "img" links that photobucket will provide for each such image you upload to your account.


Do a "Preview" of your post here after typing it in to make sure things are working right before you Submit each post.


-----------------------------------------


The 150 Hz dip is likely a cancellation "null" caused by room coupling with that speaker. To check that, try temporarily moving just that speaker a bit (say 6 inches) and take a new scan to see how much that dip changes. If you find a good location for reducing the dip, consider making that the permanent placement for that speaker as removing the dip that way will make it easier for ARC to provide a good solution.


Also note that bass and low-midrange room effects like that can be altered by things such as whether room doors or closet doors are open. So be sure the room is configured pretty much the way you use it when playing real content.


Don't be too worried about remaining wiggles that are, say +/- 3dB of the target.


-----------------------------------


The speaker volume levels and cross over settings are only a tiny part of what is going on in the D2 when the ARC results are loaded. There's a significant amount of real-time digital signal processing that's doing the bulk of the work -- stuff you can't see in any portion of the D2's Setup menus.


That means that turning off ARC but using the same volume levels and cross-overs won't get you anything close to the same results as when ARC is turned on.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13554119
> 
> 
> Anyone who wants to post their graphs, let me know and I'll put them up on my server. I wish there was an easier way to get the graphs out of the results. The quickest thing I could think of was a simple screen shot.



Yeah that's what I did. Screen shots pasted into Word Docs.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13554295
> 
> 
> Once you have screen captured such images, you can also host them in a free account at, say, www.photobucket.com
> 
> 
> Log into your account there (in your web browser) and "upload" the image files from your computer. Then just post the "img" links that photobucket will provide for each such image you upload to your account.
> 
> 
> Do a "Preview" of your post here after typing it in to make sure things are working right before you Submit each post.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The 150 Hz dip is likely a cancellation "null" caused by room coupling with that speaker. To check that, try temporarily moving just that speaker a bit (say 6 inches) and take a new scan to see how much that dip changes. If you find a good location for reducing the dip, consider making that the permanent placement for that speaker as removing the dip that way will make it easier for ARC to provide a good solution.
> 
> 
> Also note that bass and low-midrange room effects like that can be altered by things such as whether room doors or closet doors are open. So be sure the room is configured pretty much the way you use it when playing real content.
> 
> 
> Don't be too worried about remaining wiggles that are, say +/- 3dB of the target.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> The speaker volume levels and cross over settings are only a tiny part of what is going on in the D2 when the ARC results are loaded. There's a significant amount of real-time digital signal processing that's doing the bulk of the work -- stuff you can't see in any portion of the D2's Setup menus.
> 
> 
> That means that turning off ARC but using the same volume levels and cross-overs won't get you anything close to the same results as when ARC is turned on.
> 
> --Bob



Wow, I guess that is the real value of this. You can now make small adjustments and use the ARC to help fine tune the system in conjunction with your tweaks and treatments.


However I laughed out loud as an image of one of us explaining to our better halfs how that speaker needed to go where that chair was in order to remove the dip in the chart...


US: "See honey, the dip was right here and now it's gone..."

SO: "No I am pretty sure the dip is still here you dip. Put my chair back"


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN

Oh and I forgot. The Hockey thing went great.


It appears as though running ARC has helped enable the Habs to beat buffalo, not only knocking them out of the playoff race, but tying Pittsburgh for the lead in the conference again with one game left each before the real madness begins.










Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Moving a chair? Sheesh!


"Raise the ceiling 3 feet. Move the fireplace from that wall to that wall. And you'll still only get the proper surround effect if you sit in the bottom of that cupboard!"











--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13554295
> 
> 
> Once you have screen captured such images, you can also host them in a free account at, say, www.photobucket.com



Great suggestion, Bob. It's much better to manage your own photos if possible.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13554295
> 
> 
> The 150 Hz dip is likely a cancellation "null" caused by room coupling with that speaker. To check that, try temporarily moving just that speaker a bit (say 6 inches) and take a new scan to see how much that dip changes.



Thanks. I'll give it a try. I wish it were easier to experiment.


----------



## RROSEN

OK, lets try this then.


First pic is from my first pass of the ARC on 2008-03-27:











Second Pic is from my last ARC pass 2008-04-03:











Well that is as good as it gets even after playing with it. No exp with the tools. There goes my career as a Web Img poster lol.


Cheers,


Richard


Note: Red is measured, Green Is Ideal Target and Blue is What ARC Calculates you will end up with.


Edit: Maybe tomorrow I will try posting screenshots that were taken directly from ARC-1 rather than from those pasted into Word, then to Paint and uploaded. Messy.


----------



## Tim Winders

I know it's been said before, but, with so many of us receiving our ARC-1's, I think it bears saying again.


On my system, all sources were set to have the Room EQ OFF. In order to use the calibrations made by the ARC-1, this much be changed to ON.


Goto the Setup Menu and select 6. Source Setup. For each source you want to enable the ARC-1 settings, select the source and select Room EQ. Change the value to ON.


You should notice an immediate difference when you change the setting from OFF to ON.


To easily do A/B comparisons, you can copy the settings from one input to another. For example, DVD1 to DVD2. Then, change the Room EQ to OFF for DVD2 and ON for DVD1. Then, toggle between the two to do A/B comparisons.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

After I ran the ARC in all the sources the EQ was on. I do have one strange thing, when I turn the D2 on the screen says that it is powering off until I select a source. Where as before it would always go to the last source used when powering up.


----------



## ravichopra

Just installed firmware 1.31 (I need to check this thread more often) and thought I'd report on my findings.


First, most high-level settings kept, but detailed video settings (color, tint, edge enhancement, edges, letterbox, etc.) somehow lost for each source. I did try saving them to my laptop (an OLD Dell), but the LiveVideoSettingsEditor just sat there and did nothing every time I tried, so I gave up since I was updating from a newer firmware version.


Second, as most have found, much more responsive than former firmwares. Switching between different resolution shows and inputs is much snappier than before. Very happy here!


Third, I figured it was worth a try hooking the S3 TiVo up with HDMI. At first, I thought they'd finally cracked the code. With the TiVo on Native output, switching between live shows at a variety of different resolutions, as well as the menu was brisk and trouble free. Unfortunately, when I came back and tried to play a pre-recorded show (The Daily Show - 480i basic cable) it lost the signal (both video and audio) and gave me a black screen until I switched inputs a couple times to get it to lock on. This happened with other recorded shows as well. Oh well - back to Component!


Picture quality seems like it may be a bit better, particularly with some challenged sources, but I'm not certain if that's reality or just my reacting to suggestion from others' reports of improved PQ.


-Ravi


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/13555043
> 
> 
> After I ran the ARC in all the sources the EQ was on. I do have one strange thing, when I turn the D2 on the screen says that it is powering off until I select a source. Where as before it would always go to the last source used when powering up.



I'm having the same problem, but thought it could be due to low voltage in my system. Now that I see another poster with the same thing happening, maybe we should report it to Anthem.


Could this be a bug ?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13553952
> 
> 
> Hahaa, OK seriously, I should just copy and paste a post every page that says
> 
> *"I ran everything on a VISTA Business Edition SP1" Laptop and everything went fine"*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Yeah, I know. I saw that several times. I just thought I would give it a try since my desktop was in the next room, and it was on. My laptop was up on the third level at the time, and it was being utilized. Anyway, I will definitely bring it down to my basement this evening, before our company arrives, and see if I have better luck. It's running Vista Basic I believe.


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13553775
> 
> 
> I received my ARC-1, and I successfully installed the software on my computer. However, when I tried to run it, it found my D2; but, it gave me an error about it could not find a valid mic. I'm thinking maybe because I was trying to run it from my desktop which has Windows 2000. Anyway, I will try it again next week because we will have company over the weekend, and the house probably will be too noisy to run it. Next week, I will try it on my laptop which is running Vista.



Ninja, as a test can you try a different USB cable between the laptop and mic? Your issue sounds just like the one I experienced. I remedied the problem with a different USB cable.


I am suspicious of the length of the included cable being incompatible with some laptops.


Bart


----------



## misterdoggy

Well my problems persist. The D2 powers on, then powers off










I thought at first it was the current in the household, or the fact that the Amps (3) turn on at the same time pulling a lot of current, but


no it still happens when the Amps are turned off ??


It could be some connection, or something from outer space, but I have about had it.


I like the unit when it runs, but Its not dependable.


I even had an electrician come to the house and build a special 20Amp line just for the D2.


What could be causing the problem. Its been a week and its totally inconsistent. Sometimes it works and then a run of just powering off


And ONLY at Startup.


Please help someone very unhappy ????


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13555416
> 
> 
> Well my problems persist. The D2 powers on, then powers off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought at first it was the current in the household, or the fact that the Amps (3) turn on at the same time pulling a lot of current, but
> 
> 
> no it still happens when the Amps are turned off ??
> 
> 
> It could be some connection, or something from outer space, but I have about had it.
> 
> 
> I like the unit when it runs, but Its not dependable.
> 
> 
> I even had an electrician come to the house and build a special 20Amp line just for the D2.
> 
> 
> What could be causing the problem. Its been a week and its totally inconsistent. Sometimes it works and then a run of just powering off
> 
> 
> And ONLY at Startup.
> 
> 
> Please help someone very unhappy ????



I don't have the answer for you - but I know others have

had this problem also and some members here figured

out what needed to be changed.

*Bob Pariseau* - You are the EXPERT HERE - Does

this sound familiar? Do you remember the FIX?


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13555228
> 
> 
> I'm having the same problem, but thought it could be due to low voltage in my system. Now that I see another poster with the same thing happening, maybe we should report it to Anthem.
> 
> 
> Could this be a bug ?



It might be but I reloaded the software this am. and everything is back to normal.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13555507
> 
> 
> I don't have the answer for you - but I know others have
> 
> had this problem also and some members here figured
> 
> out what needed to be changed.
> 
> *Bob Pariseau* - You are the EXPERT HERE - Does
> 
> this sound familiar? Do you remember the FIX?



As far as I know, Anthem has addressed this problem in software. My understanding is that the prior posters who reported this problem have also reported it as fixed in V1.30 and V1.31.


Anyone having power on problems with V1.31 now should contact Anthem tech support.


It is possible that the power on sequencing fix they are doing for my Video Source Adjust settings may also be related to this.


If you are experiencing this after upgrading from a V1.2x version to V1.31., then it wouldn't hurt to try re-installing V1.31 on top of itself again. The firmware install process differs for V1.2x (or older) to V1.31 than for V1.3x to V1.31.


Also, a general cure for some problems is as follows: Power off with the remote. Then turn the back panel power switch off. Wait 10 seconds and turn the back panel switch on. Press any source button on the Anthem (e.g. DVD) to power it on. Once it is fully powered on (presuming that works), wait 30 seconds and then power the unit off with the remote. Now see if power on cycles work correctly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/13555414
> 
> 
> Ninja, as a test can you try a different USB cable between the laptop and mic? Your issue sounds just like the one I experienced. I remedied the problem with a different USB cable.
> 
> 
> I am suspicious of the length of the included cable being incompatible with some laptops.
> 
> 
> Bart



Computers, and in particular laptops, differ as to how much power they provide on their USB ports. It is possible that failing laptops don't have enough power on the USB to deal with that length of cable. Try removing any other USB devices (e.g. a USB mouse).


Make sure the laptop is connected to a live AC outlet and not just running on battery power.


Usually it is better to do a direct USB connection when there are problems instead of through a USB hub, even a powered hub. But if the direct connection isn't working, try using a separately powered USB hub in between the computer and the mic. Try using a shorter cable. Try using an alternate USB port. And in the end, try using a different computer.

--Bob


----------



## BruiserG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13555416
> 
> 
> Well my problems persist. The D2 powers on, then powers off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought at first it was the current in the household, or the fact that the Amps (3) turn on at the same time pulling a lot of current, but
> 
> 
> no it still happens when the Amps are turned off ??
> 
> 
> It could be some connection, or something from outer space, but I have about had it.
> 
> 
> I like the unit when it runs, but Its not dependable.
> 
> 
> I even had an electrician come to the house and build a special 20Amp line just for the D2.
> 
> 
> What could be causing the problem. Its been a week and its totally inconsistent. Sometimes it works and then a run of just powering off
> 
> 
> And ONLY at Startup.
> 
> 
> Please help someone very unhappy ????



You mentioned that you were using a power conditioner, right? I had a similar issue and am using an APC conditioner. On it this is a setting that changes its high / low thresholds for what it considers to be in protection mode (I can't remember what the setting is called). The default setting was narrow, which allows for almost no variation at all. Once I switched it to normal (wide, of course, being the third option) the problem completely went away. You might check if there is a similar setting on your conditioner. It also should be pointed out that this was only happening to my D2 even though my other components were plugged into the same conditioner.


Side note - I sent an email to Anthem support to ask if using a power conditioner with the D2 would cause any harm (I understand that it already has a conditioner, but it is the most convenient surge protected outlet) and he said that there is no harm as long as you aren't using any that use some funky wave modulation technique (I can't remember the term off hand).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/13555094
> 
> 
> Just installed firmware 1.31 (I need to check this thread more often) and thought I'd report on my findings.
> 
> 
> First, most high-level settings kept, but detailed video settings (color, tint, edge enhancement, edges, letterbox, etc.) somehow lost for each source. I did try saving them to my laptop (an OLD Dell), but the LiveVideoSettingsEditor just sat there and did nothing every time I tried, so I gave up since I was updating from a newer firmware version.
> 
> -Ravi



Live Video Settings Editor V1.20 that came with the V1.31 install kit SHOULD HAVE worked *UNLESS* you were upgrading from a version older than V1.06. The menu reading/writing functionality the Live Editor depends on in the Anthem did not exist in the earliest firmware releases. If your firmware is older than V1.06 (or perhaps older than V1.04, I'm not sure of the exact cutoff point here), you will need to write down and manually re-enter your Video Adjust Menu settings for the V1.31 upgrade.


If your older firmware was V1.06 or later and Live Editor still didn't work, your serial connection may not be functioning correctly. Make sure it is using a COM port in the range COM1 to COM6. If Live Editor finds your Anthem when you ask it to, then you should be in good shape (if the Anthem firmware is V1.06 or newer). After Live Editor finds your Anthem, do a "GET" operation in Live Editor to cause it to read in the settings from the Anthem then use the "SAVE" button to save those to a file.


To restore saved settings, Open the saved file using the File menu and then do a "LOAD" to transfer them to the D2.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

I thought I would post the full pics that are in better shape. Thanks Tim.


From my First Arc-1 Run:






















From my last run of the ARC Thursday:






















Question, Is that drop off for my Center channel mornal? The speaker is from the same Paradigm Reference Line as the Fronts. Is it FUBAR'd?


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## uppacreek

There are so many permutations and combinations of equipment and power settings connected to the D2 with owners here. I just wanted to add that I upgraded from v1.20 to v1.31 and I've experienced nothing but fantastic results....no losing video source adjustment problems, no power on or power off problems, no setup menu screen issues....just more defined video and (I can't objectively determine why) better audio. Complete HT satisfaction.


I'm not using a power conditioner, but I did buy a JPS Analog AC power cord connected to my D2. I'm not saying that's the answer by any stretch, but my D2 runs to the point of perfection.


In the immortal words of Clint Eastwood "Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya punk?" I'd have to say take the shot, Clint. However, I'm getting a bit concerned about loading ARC-1 v1.1.....???


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RROSEN,

That Center Channel speaker response in the upper midrange and high frequencies looks pretty poor. Are there any response curve adjustments on the speaker itself? If not, then you may have blown out the tweeter on that speaker.


Also, some speakers have separate input jacks for the tweeter and for the mid-range/woofer. Usually there are jumper bars attached between them so that you can use one set of input wires to drive both. If your speaker is like that, make sure the jumper bars are making good electrical contact at both ends for both connections.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13556876
> 
> 
> I thought I would post the full pics that are in better shape. Thanks Tim.



You're welcome. Did photobuckete wack your pictures? meaning... did they recompress your pic's, or something like that?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13556876
> 
> 
> Question, Is that drop off for my Center channel mornal? The speaker is from the same Paradigm Reference Line as the Fronts. Is it FUBAR'd?



Wow. I missed that when I looked at your images when I uploaded them. A complete dropoff above 2khz. That's pretty ugly. When your speaker connections (internal cabinet) to make sure the tweeter is connected. Check for physical damage. I find it hard to believe position or room would totally kills the highs like that in only 1 speaker. I would guess equipment malfunction.


As a test, swap your center and left channel (pyscially move each speaker) and run the tests again. See if the problem stays with the speaker or the location.


----------



## uppacreek

Good point Bob, why would his center roll off before 2k Hz? Most centers will go full range on the upper frequencies.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13557014
> 
> 
> RROSEN,
> 
> That Center Channel speaker response in the upper midrange and high frequencies looks pretty poor. Are there any response curve adjustments on the speaker itself? If not, then you may have blown out the tweeter on that speaker.
> 
> 
> Also, some speakers have separate input jacks for the tweeter and for the mid-range/woofer. Usually there are jumper bars attached between them so that you can use one set of input wires to drive both. If your speaker is like that, make sure the jumper bars are making good electrical contact at both ends for both connections.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah no kidding. I only really just noticed that when checking the latest results.


The speaker is bi-wired. Maybe something is loose on the AMP end. I will check that connection and if that all looks good, I will try replacing the jumpers and removing the bi-wiring and try a different cable.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. Other than that rather significant issue I was kinda surprised that my readings weren't more all over the map on the graphs. I guess the large space saves me somewhat.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RROSEN,

The good news is, once you get your center channel's tweeter sorted out you should experience a significant improvement in your audio. The center channel is a MAJOR portion of the movie listening experience.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm starting to quantify the imaging improvements in V1.31 over V1.11. These results are preliminary as I have to wait until nightfall to do truly critical observations of near black imaging.


I believe Anthem has incorporated newer Gennum firmware in this release. Based on the SD-DVD HQV test disc (HDMI 480i to the D2) it appears that both noise reduction and dithering for dark grays near black have been improved. It also appears that de-interlacing is improved for the jerkier slow cadences used in some animation (particularly anime). All the SD-DVD HQV tests pass flawlessly.


The improvement in near blacks dithering (and possibly in noise handling) results in smoother imaging near black and in fog/mist scenes. In some films this will reveal intentional "film grain" in the DVD transfer that may have looked more like noise or contouring in the past. Testing such stuff requires careful video level calibration.


I suspect there has also been some sort of improvement in the default Gamma response, although I haven't figured out quite how to test that yet. The subjective response is that the imaging looks "more natural" across a wide range of scene types.


It's early days yet, but so far I haven't found any downside to these changes. Every scene I've looked at has been as good or better than under V1.11.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13557455
> 
> 
> RROSEN,
> 
> The good news is, once you get your center channel's tweeter sorted out you should experience a significant improvement in your audio. The center channel is a MAJOR portion of the movie listening experience.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah the tweeter is definitely gone. Replaced the jumpers (removed the bi-wiring) and got the same graph when I reran ARC.


Then switched the Center cable with the Right Cable and the Right Channel now has no tweeter (Well its now connected to the Center so still the center lol).


The good news is that it's still under warranty so I am just figuring out whether it's better to take it to the dealer on Monday or if I can do something directly with Paradigm today.


I guess a lot of the ARC improvement I heard was the D2 trying to compensate for no highs in the Center. Probably never would have noticed this without the ARC although I had noticed that vocals seemed lower and a little harder to discern when I first set things up here. I thought it was just the new rooms acoustics.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN

OK, so until I get the tweeter in the Center fixed, what do you suggest.


Keep running the tweeterless Center or tell the D2 there is no Center and let the Front L/R image the Center Channel?


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13557731
> 
> 
> I guess a lot of the ARC improvement I heard was the D2 trying to compensate for no highs in the Center.



I guess! Richard, good thing you noticed the center tweeter deficiency, that's worth the cost of ARC-1 alone eh.


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13557856
> 
> 
> OK, so until I get the tweeter in the Center fixed, what do you suggest.
> 
> 
> Keep running the tweeterless Center or tell the D2 there is no Center and let the Front L/R image the Center Channel?
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Maybe your dealer can loan you a center, if it's going to take a while for the repair.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The loss of your Center speaker tweeter could be as simple as a blown fuse in the speaker.


I would suggest you tell the D2 you have no Center speaker. That's the way you are going to have to run it while the speaker is getting repaired so you might as well do that now.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13557882
> 
> 
> I guess! Richard, good thing you noticed the center tweeter deficiency, that's worth the cost of ARC-1 alone eh.



Yeah no kidding, I was thinking the same thing.


As for a loaner, I will ask if it turns out I can't just swing by Paradigm and get them to do it on the spot.


The Dealer said it would only be 2-4 business days turn around in any case. If I were to bring it in on Monday (or today) they would have the replacement on their weekly pickup Wednesday or Thursday.


One of the benefits of literally being with 20-30 km (15-20 Miles)Paradigm/Anthem itself.


Cheers,


Richard


Guess I will play around with Center/No Center for a bit hahaa.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13557966
> 
> 
> The loss of your Center speaker tweeter could be as simple as a blown fuse in the speaker.
> 
> 
> I would suggest you tell the D2 you have no Center speaker. That's the way you are going to have to run it while the speaker is getting repaired so you might as well do that now.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah I figure its something like that or a connection. The speaker/tweeter are in pristine condition (other than not working of course) so it's not an impact thing.


I blew an older Paradigm PS1000 Sub playing U-571 at insane levels once, but I have no idea how I might have blown a tweeter.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, for anyone who purchased Avia Pro over the past couple years, I just found out that the long awaited AUDIO test discs for it are now available. Just give Ovation Multimedia a call to get those sent to you.


The pro version of their Blu-Ray test disc is still about 3 months away from completion.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

Yay,


Driving out to Paradigm now and they will fix/replace on the spot.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## misterdoggy

Well I wasted the entire day. I tried to reinstall the v1.31 but it hung up at Verifying the Processor.


I am trying to install windows xp on another computer and try installing on that ...


It runs sometimes perfectly well and other times on startup it will power off ??


Its frustrating and the fact that I now can't re-install 1.31 over the old 1.31 has got me backed in to a corner.


I will give it another go, but if it continues I may have to say goodbye to Anthem unhappily.


I am looking for ease and not complications that can't be solved.


I am computer savy and installed 1.31 and arc 1.1 right away, but when everything you do correctly doesn't work, and its not your fault its very tiring


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Take it back to your dealer and tell them if they can't deliver a unit with V1.31 installed and working then they'll have to sell you something else. I don't know why you are having continuing problems with your installs.

--Bob


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13558686
> 
> 
> Yay,
> 
> 
> Driving out to Paradigm now and they will fix/replace on the spot.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Cool. ... nice advantage of being in the Toronto area. I'm in Vancouver myself.


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13558989
> 
> 
> Take it back to your dealer and tell them if they can't deliver a unit with V1.31 installed and working then they'll have to sell you something else. I don't know why you are having continuing problems with your installs.
> 
> --Bob



Im thinking about a Meridian 861, if this doesn't work out.


Maybe a bad plan to have brought a 110v machine overseas


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13559160
> 
> 
> Cool. ... nice advantage of being in the Toronto area. I'm in Vancouver myself.



Yeah, that would be a much longer drive ;-)


I am all fixed up now. I love Paradigm/Anthem.


They replaced the tweeter/midrange assembly which fixed the problem. Then just to be sure they swapped out the crossover as well (had some wear signs).


To top it off my grill screening had a slight tear so they hooked me up with a new one of those.


I am in awe of the level of service they give, no hassle, above and beyond for warranty work. Full 5 years on these speakers


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13560268
> 
> 
> Yeah, that would be a much longer drive ;-)
> 
> 
> I am all fixed up now. I love Paradigm/Anthem.
> 
> 
> They replaced the tweeter/midrange assembly which fixed the problem. Then just to be sure they swapped out the crossover as well (had some wear signs).
> 
> 
> To top it off my grill screening had a slight tear so they hooked me up with a new one of those.
> 
> 
> I am in awe of the level of service they give, no hassle, above and beyond for warranty work. Full 5 years on these speakers
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Wow. That's really above and beyond. Definitely awesome!


----------



## gtimbers

Richard,


Your HF unit is not working. It may be blown or perhaps there are jumper bars on the rear that are loose. In any event, the center should have similar high frequency response to the other speakers. The general HF roll off exhibited by all of the speakers is normal. It is the common for HF energy to be absorbed more than lower frequencies so the farther you are from the front speakers, the greater that "power" roll off will be.


The big dip in the lower midrange is also not uncommon and is probably due to a ground bounce. This is the difference in path length from the speaker as a straight line relative to the path from the speaker bouncing off the ground and then up to the listening position. Life is a ***** and then physics kills you. Most speakers exhibit this issue and there is little that can be done. The ARC filled it up quite well. Peaks are much more audible than dips and the programing in ARC knows this. It will always correct peaks more completely than dips as reducing power (to fix a peak) is much safer than piling on more power (fill up a dip). 6 dB of correction is equivalent to 4 times the power!


A note to anyone using ARC who has a high end subwoofer. The target curves for ARC cannot be changed. You can only mess with crossover frequencies. Notice that the low end, below 30 Hz is rolled off by ARC. If you have a sub with internal EQ and if that sub is capable of real extended response, then the use of ARC will negatively impact your extension. This is unfortunate as you must use all of ARC or none of it. It is very effective in correcting response problems so you may have a decision.


In my case, I have chosen not to use ARC as it did more damage than good. My speakers are exceptionally smooth and precise so the EQ help wasn't that big a deal. I have flat response to below 16 Hz with the use of a simple external EQ unit so loosing 9 dB of output at 20 Hz is not acceptable to me. I wish we had the option of changing the actual target curve shape in the advanced mode.


I also had an issue with the standard settings. ARC chose 30 Hz crossovers for my mains and 80 Hz for my subs. This gave me a huge overlap range which is just plain wrong. I could go into advanced and fix the crossover points which gave me acceptable results. I have run ARC several times and it is quite consistent. Also be aware that ARC uses the settings of sub polarity and sub phase that are set prior to activating the measurement. I needed to adjust those settings after the fact to make the proper crossover points work best. Anyone using the standard setup should set the polarity to what sounds best before ARC, and the phase to zero for a starting point.


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtimbers* /forum/post/13560775
> 
> 
> A note to anyone using ARC who has a high end subwoofer. The target curves for ARC cannot be changed. You can only mess with crossover frequencies. Notice that the low end, below 30 Hz is rolled off by ARC. If you have a sub with internal EQ and if that sub is capable of real extended response, then the use of ARC will negatively impact your extension. This is unfortunate as you must use all of ARC or none of it. It is very effective in correcting response problems so you may have a decision.
> 
> .



ARC starts to roll off at 30hz for subs? That sucks. I am not a true audiophile by any means, but isn't there plenty of material down to at least 20Hz? My sub is cable of having a flat response below that (might not hear it, but should feel it).


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

To find where to roll off low end, ARC looks for the area that response drops sharply (look at the left side of the red line). This includes subs. Everything that vibrates has a natural low-end rolloff and ARC doesn't try to kill the speaker by making that flat. Some ARC measurements and targets *do* show flatness to the left end of the graph but that's rare.


To find out how much room gain there is, it looks for a trend across all measurements. It does not try to remove the room response because if it did the sound would be thin. The assumption is that the speaker is of resonable quality and reasonable flat anechoically - we are used to hearing room gain so removing it would be unnatural (our voices sound different outside vs inside).


----------



## tranle

misterdoggy:

If you have problem apply the new firmware, I would suggest the following:

1) Use the flash eraser to remove the old one. The flash eprom seems to be partitioned and I had to run multiple time (~4) before it told me that everything was erased properly.

2) Use a computer with a real serial port or use the keyspan usb-to-serial to flash the new firmware. The serial handshake does not seems to happen correctly with a different usb-to-serial adapter.


Also like I said above the firmware of the D2 seem to be in multiple pieces that get flashed , then verified, then flash the next one, then verified ... If one of the piece did not verify it will abort. And you may end up with a half working D2.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/13561243
> 
> 
> Graphs are nice but please don't listen with your eyes



Wise advice!


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13552332
> 
> 
> The good news is that Anthem believes they are on the track of why my Video Source Adjust settings don't survive a power-cycle. It appears to be a somewhat rare timing issue as suspected. The bad news is that their first try at fixing it has not yet fixed it. I just installed V1.31a from their test software site (using Windows XP on Bootcamp on a Leopard Macbook with the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter).
> 
> 
> On the other hand, the good news is that the On-Screen Display of my Setup menu is back! As is the ability to input and scale video from my Polk XM Radio receiver. Nick says they had a problem early on where some electronic parts changed value after a period of use, causing loss of S-video (including the Setup menu display). That's been fixed (although there may still be units out there that need a hardware fix). However there appears to be a new, SOFTWARE problem that is also causing loss of S-video in some cases. In any event, this version of the software seems to leave S-video working in my D2.
> 
> 
> I'm still seeing B/W-static-hash-like flashes when output resolution changes from my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR. But it appears to be locking in a bit faster with this latest software.
> 
> 
> Stay tuned.
> 
> 
> ETA: NOTE that the S-video fix mentioned above may be pure coincidence -- the luck of how program memory was left after the install. Nick did *NOT* tell me he thought V1.31a contained a fix specific to my S-video problems. The impression I got is that Anthem is still trying to nail down the cause of that. Also the problem locking into the S-video user interface from the Velodyne subwoofer remains -- but that's NEVER worked.
> 
> --Bob




Bob, Comcast has released a newer version of the comcast hd dvr.. the dch3416.


The model number is the same but the box looks completely different.. perhaps the hdmi is better on this one? I just swapped them out. I have been having bad hdmi handshake problems when switching between 480i and 1080i. I am hoping this will fix it... I am sick of having to power down the D2 multiple times. I am currently at firmware version 1.12s.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My ARC arrived and I did my first "Standard" pass with it. Just starting to listen now. So far so good.


------------------------------------------


I had a problem uploading the ARC results to the D2. If this happens to you, exit the ARC application, UNPLUG THE MICROPHONE from the computer's USB connection, restart the application, go into Advanced, Open the automatically saved results file that failed to Upload (File menu) and Upload again. Particularly if you are using a USB/Serial adapter, there may be some interaction in the USB between that adapter and the microphone which is interfering with the Upload and Verify of the results.


Uploading of the results worked fine for me after disconnecting the USB mic.


------------------------------------------


Nick says that ARC results are saved independent of Saved User Settings or Saved Installer Settings. So there is no need to re-Save those just to remember your uploaded ARC results -- although you probably do want to Save them to record your Setup / Source Setup menu changes when you turn on Room EQ for each source.


Reloading Saved User Settings or Saved Installer Settings, or indeed reloading Factory Defaults will have no impact on the ARC results stored in the D2 (although they may alter whether Room EQ is turned on for each source).


The procedure for clearing ARC out of the Anthem is to tell the application to Upload results from a non-existent file.


-----------------------------------------


To the poster who commented on ARC not allowing for subs that go extra deep: You would think that ARC would be sensitive to whether THX Ultra 2 is turned on for the Sub in the Room Response menu -- or that it would have an equivalent menu item in the ARC application that would deepen the target. This is feedback anyone with such a Sub should send to Anthem.


Now that I've got ARC results in my D2, I'll try redoing the Velodyne graphic sweep from the Sub and see what's actually happening at the low end its test sweep.


-----------------------------------------


The best manual setup I had with my Velodyne sub (pre ARC) involved turning down it's internal volume and adding +6.5dB trim in the D2. ARC zeroes out all those speaker level settings before doing its sweeps. In my case that meant the Sub wasn't putting out enough volume to do good measurements. I boosted my Sub's internal volume by +5dB, and that got it to where ARC could complete its measurements -- although I had to repeat the Sub passes a couple of times in a couple of positions.


-----------------------------------------


My problem with the failure of the Video Source Adjust menu settings to survive a power cycle appears to be a hardware issue with my particular video board (not generic to that vintage of boards -- just my board).


Sigh.


The good news is that there appears to be no reason for other folks to hold off doing the upgrade to V1.31 based on the issue I'm having.


Anthem will fix my problem under warranty.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13561533
> 
> 
> My ARC arrived and I did my first "Standard" pass with it. Just starting to listen now. So far so good.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I had a problem uploading the ARC results to the D2. If this happens to you, exit the ARC application, UNPLUG THE MICROPHONE from the computer's USB connection, restart the application, go into Advanced, Open the automatically saved results file that failed to Upload (File menu) and Upload again. Particularly if you are using a USB/Serial adapter, there may be some interaction in the USB between that adapter and the microphone which is interfering with the Upload and Verify of the results.
> 
> 
> Uploading of the results worked fine for me after disconnecting the USB mic.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Nick says that ARC results are saved independent of Saved User Settings or Saved Installer Settings. So there is no need to re-Save those just to remember your uploaded ARC results -- although you probably do want to Save them to record your Setup / Source Setup menu changes when you turn on Room EQ for each source.
> 
> 
> Reloading Saved User Settings or Saved Installer Settings, or indeed reloading Factory Defaults will have no impact on the ARC results stored in the D2 (although they may alter whether Room EQ is turned on for each source).
> 
> 
> The procedure for clearing ARC out of the Anthem is to tell the application to Upload results from a non-existent file.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> To the poster who commented on ARC not allowing for subs that go extra deep: You would think that ARC would be sensitive to whether THX Ultra 2 is turned on for the Sub in the Room Response menu -- or that it would have an equivalent menu item in the ARC application that would deepen the target. This is feedback anyone with such a Sub should send to Anthem.
> 
> 
> Now that I've got ARC results in my D2, I'll try redoing the Velodyne graphic sweep from the Sub and see what's actually happening at the low end its test sweep.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The best manual setup I had with my Velodyne sub (pre ARC) involved turning down it's internal volume and adding +6.5dB trim in the D2. ARC zeroes out all those speaker level settings before doing its sweeps. In my case that meant the Sub wasn't putting out enough volume to do good measurements. I boosted my Sub's internal volume by +5dB, and that got it to where ARC could complete its measurements -- although I had to repeat the Sub passes a couple of times in a couple of positions.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> My problem with the failure of the Video Source Adjust menu settings to survive a power cycle appears to be a hardware issue with my particular video board (not generic to that vintage of boards -- just my board).
> 
> 
> Sigh.
> 
> 
> The good news is that there appears to be no reason for other folks to hold off doing the upgrade to V1.31 based on the issue I'm having.
> 
> 
> Anthem will fix my problem under warranty.
> 
> --Bob



So, you have to send it back to Anthem to fix your video problem?


----------



## gtimbers

I did try the THX Ultra 2 setting and it does not appear to have any effect on the target response. It does, indeed, roll off the response of the processor as required by THX. I did not try to engage Ultra 2 and then use the ARC. This might help is it tricks the ARC into over-EQing the low end relative to the rolled off target. Then the Ultra 2 would be turned off to return some of the lost bass extension. The proper solution is to give the advanced user some control of the target functions. I am also of the opinion that the lower midrange lift in the target response starts at too low a frequency. I would much rather begin the climb at 700Hz or 800Hz. The ARC EQ curve can make things sould a little thin.


Anthem also made a change in the HF portion of the target curve from V1.3 to V1.31. Originally, the HF traget response gently rolled down above about 8 kHz. Now it extends flat to 20 kHz. This is just plain wrong. Some sort of attenuation is required in any in-room target response at the high frequency end. Fortunately, you can tell the system how high to apply the EQ. I believe the default frequency is 5000 Hz, which is a very reasonable choice.


I did make an effort to communicate my concerns regarding the LF Target and was told that no discussion of targets will take place beyond using the standard mode.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OK, I just checked the Velodyne's internal test tone sweep with ARC turned on and there is NOT a serious roll-off of base below 20Hz in my setup.


For folks who don't know the Velodyne stuff, the subwoofer sends its internally generated test tones via a stereo RCA pair to the Anthem. The Anthem input used for this is set to Stereo mode with Room EQ (ARC) turned on. So the Velodyne's test sweep is adjusted by ARC and steered between the LF/RF main speakers and the subwoofer according to the Anthem's bass management (cross over's and such). The audio sent to the subwoofer is then processed by the Velodyne's own internal Room EQ stuff for bass -- which I had previously setup manually to give me nice flat bass response all the way down.


The test sweep tones thus come out partially from the subwoofer and partially from the main LF/RF speakers.


Meanwhile, a mic calibrated by Velodyne picks up the resulting sound and feeds it into the Velodyne which generates a graphic response curve as an S-video output.


To make it simple, I can see a real-time graphic response curve that shows the combo of ARC, the rest of the D2's bass management, and the Velodyne internal Room EQ stuff as sweep tones rise up from very low frequency up to and beyond the cross-over. I.e., I'm seeing not only low bass response of the Sub but also how seamlessly this transitions to the LF/RF Mains as the frequency rises up to and beyond the point where the Mains are also involved.


The particular Velodyne sub I'm using is a THX Ultra 2 sub and goes quite deep. Not as deep as DRHANKZ' "low-rider" room shakers, but pretty durned deep.


And turning on the ARC results did NOT cause a roll-off of this good low bass. In fact the resulting curve looked quite good at all my listening positions. As flat as I had achieved before (as a compromise over several listening positions) in the true bass, but also FLATTER in the low mid-range frequencies above the cross over.


So far, I'd have to say ARC has *NOT* produced any problems for me with my Sub even though that Sub is capable of going quite deep.


I'm not sure, but it MAY be the case that turning on THX Ultra 2 and Boundary Gain Compensation in the Room Response portion of the D2's Setup / Speaker Configuration menu is important to this. I used both of those settings in doing my original, manual Sub setup, and I left them on with the ARC stuff.


Given that I haven't done any tweaking at all to ARC to achieve this, I'm pretty impressed!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13561901
> 
> 
> So, you have to send it back to Anthem to fix your video problem?



Ask again later. The future is cloudy...

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13562009
> 
> 
> OK, I just checked the Velodyne's internal test tone sweep with ARC turned on and there is NOT a serious roll-off of base below 20Hz in my setup.
> 
> 
> For folks who don't know the Velodyne stuff, the subwoofer sends its internally generated test tones via a stereo RCA pair to the Anthem. The Anthem input used for this is set to Stereo mode with Room EQ (ARC) turned on. So the Velodyne's test sweep is adjusted by ARC and steered between the LF/RF main speakers and the subwoofer according to the Anthem's bass management (cross over's and such). The audio sent to the subwoofer is then processed by the Velodyne's own internal Room EQ stuff for bass -- which I had previously setup manually to give me nice flat bass response all the way down.
> 
> 
> The test sweep tones thus come out partially from the subwoofer and partially from the main LF/RF speakers.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, a mic calibrated by Velodyne picks up the resulting sound and feeds it into the Velodyne which generates a graphic response curve as an S-video output.
> 
> 
> To make it simple, I can see a real-time graphic response curve that shows the combo of ARC, the rest of the D2's bass management, and the Velodyne internal Room EQ stuff as sweep tones rise up from very low frequency up to and beyond the cross-over. I.e., I'm seeing not only low bass response of the Sub but also how seamlessly this transitions to the LF/RF Mains as the frequency rises up to and beyond the point where the Mains are also involved.
> 
> 
> The particular Velodyne sub I'm using is a THX Ultra 2 sub and goes quite deep. Not as deep as DRHANKZ' "low-rider" room shakers, but pretty durned deep.
> 
> 
> And turning on the ARC results did NOT cause a roll-off of this good low bass. In fact the resulting curve looked quite good at all my listening positions. As flat as I had achieved before (as a compromise over several listening positions) in the true bass, but also FLATTER in the low mid-range frequencies above the cross over.
> 
> 
> So far, I'd have to say ARC has *NOT* produced any problems for me with my Sub even though that Sub is capable of going quite deep.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure, but it MAY be the case that turning on THX Ultra 2 and Boundary Gain Compensation in the Room Response portion of the D2's Setup / Speaker Configuration menu is important to this. I used both of those settings in doing my original, manually Sub setup, and I left them on with the ARC stuff.
> 
> 
> Given that I haven't done any tweaking at all to ARC to achieve this, I'm pretty impressed!
> 
> --Bob




Hi Bob,


I'm curious about your thoughts on this...I have the ARC installed and previous to that I was the owner of a Velodyne SMS-1 which I removed out of the equation once I starting working with ARC.


Do you think I should put the SMS-1 back into the equation?


Thanks! (as usual)


/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau

So far I'm still using the Velodyne EQ stuff built into my Sub -- the equivalent of the SMS-1 you were using -- and the result seems to be good.


I have not yet had a chance to try re-doing ARC with the Velodyne's own EQ stuff disabled.


But I expect that ARC will have more work to do when the Velodyne's EQ is turned off and thus the over-all results won't be as good. We'll see.


Now mind you, I did NOT get good results with the "automatic" Velodyne system. I spent quite a bit of time tweaking their filters manually to achieve a good "compromise" result curve over several listening positions. That took a few weeks and was a major pain in the butt -- not to mention driving anyone else within listening distance stark staring bonkers.


But the first "Standard" pass I did with ARC was done with that hard-won Velodyne result turned on, and so far it looks like ARC built on that Velodyne stuff quite nicely.


I still do plan to try another ARC pass with the Velodyne stuff disabled, but not tonight.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

In order to connect the USB Keyspan serial adapter to the D2, do I have to remove the two tiny screws from the D2's serial port? It appears that the two around the Keyspan can't be removed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13562158
> 
> 
> In order to connect the USB Keyspan serial adapter to the D2, do I have to remove the two tiny screws from the D2's serial port? It appears that the two around the Keyspan can't be removed.



Do not connect it directly to the D2. Buy a standard, "straight through" serial cable and attach THAT to the D2. You can leave it attached, coiled up behind the D2 when not in use.


Meanwhile, plug the Keyspan into your USB port using the short USB cable included, and connect the other end of the serial cable to the Keyspan. It is better to keep the USB connection short and use a longer serial cable to reach to your computer.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13562209
> 
> 
> Do not connect it directly to the D2. Buy a standard, "straight through" serial cable and attach THAT to the D2. You can leave it attached, coiled up behind the D2 when not in use.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, plug the Keyspan into your USB port using the short USB cable included, and connect the other end of the serial cable to the Keyspan. It is better to keep the USB connection short and use a longer serial cable to reach to your computer.
> 
> --Bob



Got it.


----------



## netroamer

My ARC arrived at the dealer on Wednesday. Prior to it's arrival, I arranged to have them UPS it to me as the travel distance and time make it more practical to ship. I heard from another of the dealers customers, who picked up his ARC on Wednesday evening, that they gave him mine by accident. Luckily he opened it in the parking lost and noticed the incorrect serial number. Thursday I received a call to confirm my address and was told that it would ship that day. Being the same market, it should have arrived today. When it became to late for UPS, I called the dealer to verify they shipped it. I was told they did, but when I asked for a tracking number was told they did not have one, and that the owners were gone and perhaps they knew.


Well the weekend I set aside to work with the ARC must now be planned anew. And, I have no idea where the ARC is. Bummer!!!


----------



## bool

Bob-


I am glad to hear your sub results using ARC. I was worried that my upgrades to the D2 and a Paradigm Signature Servo would butt heads. It wouldn't make sense for there to be a roll off at 30 hz when Paradigm makes a sub cable of a flat response so much lower.


I am also using an SMS-1. I was going to dump it, but reading your response, I will have to try ARC with and without and see which one sounds better.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13562024
> 
> 
> Ask again later. The future is cloudy...
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Let me turn the tables and give you some advise for a change. If you have an old video board(green) and have the opportunity to get it upgraded to a newer red board, DO IT!

Although at the time it was a painful experience, it has proved to be well worth the hassle. My D2 runs much cooler and the video quality has greatly improved. With the old board- and firmware- I could not get a good picture with 480i input from my dvd. I thought all you guys on the thread were crazy when you would talk about getting a great picture using 480i input. Now I can do it too.

Anthem also upgraded my firmware to v1.20 when they switched out my video board, so that must be taken into the equation, but I am very happy with the new red video board.

What I wasn't happy with was being without my D2 for 5 weeks. The travel thru customs across the American/Canadian border added a week to ten days to the repair process. If your dealer is more helpful to you than my former dealer was to me and gives you a loaner- or if you have an old receiver you can use in the meantime- the time without your D2 will be more tolerable.

Tom


----------



## ninja12

Well, I finally ran the ARC-1. I'm watching Casino Royale right now. I just want to quickly say that the ARC-1 has definitely taken my sound to a new and better level. Also, the Room EQ was on by default. Off to do more listening and smiling.


----------



## TREVLAN

Does anyone know if Anthem is making a version or ARC-1 for the AVM50 or is this a D1/D2 only thing?

Which would suck as I just bought the AVM50 4 months ago and if the ARC-1 doesn't work and if they won't be making a version for the AVM line. I feel like I kind of efed up on my purchase. I love my AVM50 but all this talk on how well/differance the ARC-1 has made is making me sick with jelously. The results are just tremendous from what you all are saying and showing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/13563551
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Anthem is making a version or ARC-1 for the AVM50 or is this a D1/D2 only thing?
> 
> Which would suck as I just bought the AVM50 4 months ago and if the ARC-1 doesn't work and if they won't be making a version for the AVM line. I feel like I kind of efed up on my purchase. I love my AVM50 but all this talk on how well/differance the ARC-1 has made is making me sick with jelously. The results are just tremendous from what you all are saying and showing.



No the ARC stuff can't run on the AVM50, AVM40, or AVM30 hardware. The D2 and the D1 have spare DSP processing power that was intended all along to run the ARC stuff.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13563315
> 
> 
> Well, I finally ran the ARC-1. I'm watching Casino Royale right now. I just want to quickly say that the ARC-1 has definitely taken my sound to a new and better level. Also, the Room EQ was on by default. Off to do more listening and smiling.



It is really nice isn't it. Yes, The ARC really does make a worthwhile difference.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/13563551
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Anthem is making a version or ARC-1 for the AVM50 or is this a D1/D2 only thing?
> 
> Which would suck as I just bought the AVM50 4 months ago and if the ARC-1 doesn't work and if they won't be making a version for the AVM line. I feel like I kind of efed up on my purchase. I love my AVM50 but all this talk on how well/differance the ARC-1 has made is making me sick with jelously. The results are just tremendous from what you all are saying and showing.



I don't think the AVM series has the processing power for something like an Anthem Room Correction.


----------



## RROSEN

It's also a great system diagnostics tool.


Lets say for example one of your tweeters isn't working..... And your not bright enough to notice until its on a graph in your face hahaa.


I heard this actually happened to someone










Cheers,


Richard


PS. I may have to admit that NHL Hockey isn't good enough for critical listening tests. There I said it.


----------



## tngiloy

Now for my experience today with my upgrades using a laptop with vista basic. In a word- Good.

I received my keyspan usb/serial adapter and a 15' serial cable yesterday so I decided to to try upgrading to v1.31 today in anticipation of getting my ARC-1. I went to the Anthem download site and downloaded the video settings editor and v1.31a. I then hooked up my laptop to the D2 following the instructions included and ran the video settings editor. The instructions for the video settings editor weren't as clear as I would have liked- I admit I'm a computer moron- but it seemed to work. At least it didn't hurt it. Most of my video settings were set to the factory defaults, and the few that weren't I reset later. I backed up all my settings in the D2 set up also and reloaded them after the firmware upgrade.

I then, carefully following the v1.31a loading instructions to the letter I loaded it without any problems.

I then got a call from my dealer that my ARC-1 had arrived, so I picked it up and sent my wife out shopping and thew the dogs outside while I ran the ARC-1.

The software loaded without problem from the cd-rom. The room correction failed the first three times. I had set it up to do different 'movie' and 'music' sweeps, but then changed to 'movie' only and it then ran the sweeps without problem. The uploading failed the first time, but ran fine the next time and I was done. Yippie!

I then powered off the D2 for a few minutes and turned it on to check it out. I went into the settings to see what changes had been made. Under the speaker configuration I first went into 'movie' settings. The first thing I noticed was that there was only one sub. There was no where on the ARC-1 that I saw how to set it for 2 subs. So I reset it to 2subs in the 'speaker config' area.

The crossovers had been changed dramaticly. My fronts and surnd went from 65hz to 'off'. I use paradigm S4's for both of them and they have a pretty low range (35hz if I remember right), but I was surprised they had been set 'off'. Center (C3) went from 65 to 55hz. Rears (Signature ADP's) from 80 to 115hz, and sub from 80 to 100hz.

I then checked the 'music' setting assuming they would be the same, but they weren't. Fronts-45hz, center 55hz, surnd 60hz, rears 115hz,and sub 80hz.

'Listner position was unchanged, as I expected.

Speaker calibration was close to what I had set up with my faithful radioshack spl, but it had raised the left front 1db over the right, like I had done in post spl tweeking. I thought I had some hearing loss in my left ear, but apparently it was a problem with the room.









In the 'souce set-up' none of the sources defaulted to 'roomeq on' as I was led to beleive they would, but I changed all the inputs I use to 'room eq: on', and they have stayed that way after a number of power on/off cycles.

I then listened to a cd I was familiar with and watched a movie scene -Star wars pod race scene- to test out the new settings. The changes were subtle but noticable, and all positive. The bass was less boomy, but still impacting. I use 2 svs pb ultras that I had previosly eq'ed with their own built in adjustments, a test tone cd and the afore mentioned spl meter. I left the settings on the sub at the previous calibration settings before running the ARC-1, as suggested in the Antem guide and on this thread. Music was also subtly improved.

All my settings are room and equipment related and are of interest to only me . Even with the same equipment I imagine the ARC-1 would be different in a different room. But I was surprised at the x-over settings the ARC-1 had applied. I never would have deviated that much from standard thx 80hz setings on my own, but the proof is in the listening and the sound definitly improved.

I am very pleased with the ARC-1 and even more pleased Iwas able to use my Vista based laptop to do the upgrades.

Good luck to you all with your upgrades,

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just finished re-verifying my video calibration settings and found nothing that contradicts my comments from this afternoon on what I think is going on with improved imaging in V1.31.


I also played some scenes that I use as "video processor torture tests" and was unable to see any downside in whatever Anthem has changed here.


It's all good!


I do, however, wish they'd found a way to keep "Crop Input" as a shortcut under the Mode key. I'm probably in the minority on this, but I used that shortcut A LOT.


Now I'll need to setup an overlayed input to make it easy to force a 16:9 crop for SDTV letter-boxed programs (and maybe another to force a Custom crop for SDTV letter-boxed inside an HDTV broadcast). No big deal, but I'm set in my ways....


------------------------------------------


On the audio side, I'm not convinced yet that my first pass with ARC is doing everything I would like it to do. There are clearly some significant improvements, but I've listened to a few passages where I thought things were a bit out of balance. And a few others where I thought I was hearing some processing noise. These were louder passages, with a complex mix of sounds, so I may have just been hearing real stuff that was not revealed pre-ARC. I need to take a closer look at that.


And I'm surprised at some differences it found between speakers. So I want to do some re-measurement with perhaps slightly different mic positioning. And of course I still have to do the test with the Velodyne EQ stuff turned off.


On the other hand, I'm listening to some jazz right now and it sounds very clean indeed! The low mid-range and the bass mesh quite seamlessly.


And the battle sequences in Master and Commander: Far Side of the World were rocking the room a little earlier, before I decided to take pity on the neighbors.

--Bob


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13563701
> 
> 
> It's also a great system diagnostics tool.
> 
> 
> Lets say for example one of your tweeters isn't working..... And your not bright enough to notice until its on a graph in your face hahaa.
> 
> 
> I heard this actually happened to someone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> PS. I may have to admit that NHL Hockey isn't good enough for critical listening tests. There I said it.



Okay, so I'm not too interested in hearing about hockey right now.... arghh ... Canucks ... arghh










I must say I'm really impressed with the service you got from Paradigm. Particularly since they gave you a new grill to fix a purely cosmetic issue too. Awesome.


I too own the AVM50, and I'm a little envious of all this ARC discussion. I don't don't even want to make the call to my dealer about an upgrade, every time I go near the place it's major $$$


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13563741
> 
> 
> I just finished re-verifying my video calibration settings and found nothing that contradicts my comments from this afternoon on what I think is going on with improved imaging in V1.31.
> 
> 
> I also played some scenes that I use as "video processor torture tests" and was unable to see any downside in whatever Anthem has changed here.
> 
> 
> It's all good!
> 
> 
> I do, however, wish they'd found a way to keep "Crop Input" as a shortcut under the Mode key. I'm probably in the minority on this, but I used that shortcut A LOT.
> 
> 
> Now I'll need to setup an overlayed input to make it easy to force a 16:9 crop for SDTV letter-boxed programs (and maybe another to force a Custom crop for SDTV letter-boxed inside an HDTV broadcast). No big deal, but I'm set in my ways....
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the battle sequences in Master and Commander: Far Side of the World were rocking the room a little earlier, before I decided to take pity on the neighbors.
> 
> --Bob



I used the battle sequences from Master and Commander to test the new ARC install on my system too. It's a pretty impressive demo isn't it Bob.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13548232
> 
> 
> When I get around to it, I'm going to see what happens when I do some sweeps at seated listening locations and other sweeps at standing head height locations behind the sofa that is the primary seating (in the middle of the room). So perhaps 5 along the sofa (the primary one being sofa center at seated ear height) and 5 more at standing ear height behind the sofa, and see what that produces.
> 
> --Bob



We alternated the heights of the mic. Tall, then head height when sitting, then tall again, ect. The position nearest where I usually sit was at head level while sitting. It would be interesting to see what the sweeps results would be with all Tall vs all head level while sitting .


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/13561246
> 
> 
> misterdoggy:
> 
> If you have problem apply the new firmware, I would suggest the following:
> 
> 1) Use the flash eraser to remove the old one. The flash eprom seems to be partitioned and I had to run multiple time (~4) before it told me that everything was erased properly.
> 
> 2) Use a computer with a real serial port or use the keyspan usb-to-serial to flash the new firmware. The serial handshake does not seems to happen correctly with a different usb-to-serial adapter.
> 
> 
> Also like I said above the firmware of the D2 seem to be in multiple pieces that get flashed , then verified, then flash the next one, then verified ... If one of the piece did not verify it will abort. And you may end up with a half working D2.



Flash eraser ??


Does that mean erase what's on the D2 and then install a new operating system on the D2 I don't understand ??


I am trying with an Imac with windows XP and I had successfully installed already with this machine, but now it is having problems and I think its do to corrupt files in the D2.


Erasing those corrupt files and installing a new would be the answer but I'm not sure how to do that.


Flash eraser ?? Where is that ?


thanks


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I did another sweep last night and used my camera tri-pod to get exact height at the listening position and it did make some changes. I am most amazed at the crossovers it chose, 25hz for the fronts, 100hz for the center, 115hz for the surrounds and 100hz for the subs. My fronts are Salk HT3's and Jim Salk said you could run them without a sub, I guess he was right.


This really is an awesome upgrade.


How can you print out or post the graphs from the ARC?


----------



## misterdoggy

Success !!


But will it work. I installed the 1.31 (re-install) and we will see if it fixes the problem


Then I can have fun with all you guys sharing graphs and talking about how great the sound is


----------



## misterdoggy

With the new re-install of 1.31 it still powers off on start-up.


Then I start-up a second time and it works ??


I'm wondering if I should try with factory defaults and see if it does the same thing just to see if there is something somewhere in my settings that cause it to power off.


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13563703
> 
> 
> I then got a call from my dealer that my ARC-1 had arrived, so I picked it up and sent my wife out shopping and thew the dogs outside while I ran the ARC-1.
> 
> ,
> 
> Tom



That is classic! That is what I did when I ran my SMS-1 , but instead of dogs, I "threw" the kids outside. Good thing it was a nice day outside.


----------



## dschamis

I ran my first ARC-1 run last night and the results are amazing, but I'm wondering if it was quiet enough in the room. I have a TiVo on my rack which I did not turn off, and it was making its usual TiVo hard drive type of noises. Does it need to be totally silent in the room when running the ARC?


David


----------



## wookie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13564565
> 
> 
> I ran my first ARC-1 run last night and the results are amazing, but I'm wondering if it was quiet enough in the room. I have a TiVo on my rack which I did not turn off, and it was making its usual TiVo hard drive type of noises. Does it need to be totally silent in the room when running the ARC?
> 
> 
> David



From what I heard continuous noise is not suppose to make a difference. I would still try to eliminate extraneous noises if I could (kids, dogs, wives etc). Not permanantly of course.


----------



## agrsiv95

I also ran my first test last night and am suprised at the amount of changes it made to my room. I agree with the front stage blending into the front of the room and the crossover points have changed as well, but all overlaping the subs.


Have to run some more sweeps this morning and I will post some picks as well. I also want to run the D2 sweeps with the RS SPL and see what the differences are.


Jeremy


----------



## misterdoggy

I am beginning to think my universal remote may have something to do with the power off.


Since the D2 is a computer and you should not turn or or plug in something while its starting up, maybe the fact that I have the satellites and TV coming on while the Anthem is still starting up might be causing a problem.


So I have changed the order of things and see how it goes. First the TV then the satellites and at the end after everything is on the Anthem comes on.


Because the Anthem takes so long it has to be last in the chain.


or it can be first and after its on, turn everything else on


Still experimenting


----------



## misterdoggy

That didn't work


Now I have the D2 turning on 1st and waiting until its completely on before turning on everything else


so far so good


----------



## vivekg

Hi,


I got my new Anthem D2 late yesterday and had a few questions.


First my setup:


D2 running 1.30 (that's how it came, I have not updated to 1.31 or run Arc yet)

Sharp LC-52D64U connected via HDMI to D2 [HDMI Out]

Sony PS3 connected via HDMI to D2 [DVD 1, HDMI 2]

Verizon FIOS Motorola PVR (6416-2) connected via HDMI to D2 [SAT1, HDMI 1]

Intel Mac Mini connected via DVI-HDMI w optical audio to D2 [DVD 2, HDMI 3 w/ Optical 1]

Wii connected via component and analog stereo to D2 [Aux, Component 1 w/ Aux Stereo]

Harmony 360 (special XBox version of remote... it was cheap when CompUSA was going out of business)


So that should give a general idea of how I have configured the items. Here are the problems I am having (and yes I downloaded the whole thread and searched... didn't sleep much last night







):


1) Mac Mini only gets an option for 1080i, directly to my TV I was able to do 1080p. I have tried the repeater on and off for HDMI. Any way to fix this? What resolution are others running at?


2) Harmony remote does not seem to work with the commands from their site or even with a few that I tried to memorize to change inputs. I also tried using the THX-8-5 command to change inputs (programmed into the harmony) but no joy. Is it my version of the Harmony remote or something else? I don't even get power on/off working.


3) This one is more looking for advice. I have FIOS and I get a green band down the right and a weird line down the left where it feels like there is a line that causes distortion in the image. So I have generally run the tv stretched for my cable input. Once I get the harmony working I could configure it to do that whenever I watch TV.. the question is what do others do?


That's all the questions for now (only the beginning I'm sure). I finally was able to listen to some of my SACDs with the PS3 and they sounded fabulous. Now that it is daytime I have to try a few blu-rays to see how they sound.


Thanks,

Vivek


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13565176
> 
> 
> That didn't work
> 
> 
> Now I have the D2 turning on 1st and waiting until its completely on before turning on everything else
> 
> 
> so far so good



This is how my setup turns on normally. I just did a manual start out of order and it didn't matter.


Jeremy


----------



## RobV

Hi Fellas,


I have searched extensively for info on this issue...


My right surround rca preout sporadically emits a "surge" of bass into the speaker. The channel is set to basic small, however I have also tried to raise the Xover significantly. This occurs with all HDMI sources including HDDVD/XBOX360, Sony BDPS500, HD Cable (all updated to latest FW). I have tried swapping cables, amp channels, and speakers and have determined that the noise follows the preout. I'm going to try the balanced out this afternoon....


Any similar issues?


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobV* /forum/post/13565847
> 
> 
> Hi Fellas,
> 
> 
> I have searched extensively for info on this issue...
> 
> 
> My right surround rca preout sporadically emits a "surge" of bass into the speaker. The channel is set to basic small, however I have also tried to raise the Xover significantly. This occurs with all HDMI sources including HDDVD/XBOX360, Sony BDPS500, HD Cable (all updated to latest FW). I have tried swapping cables, amp channels, and speakers and have determined that the noise follows the preout. I'm going to try the balanced out this afternoon....
> 
> 
> Any similar issues?



I had that with the original ARC 1.0 and when I switched to 1.1 it disappeared


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobV* /forum/post/13565847
> 
> 
> Hi Fellas,
> 
> 
> I have searched extensively for info on this issue...
> 
> 
> My right surround rca preout sporadically emits a "surge" of bass into the speaker. The channel is set to basic small, however I have also tried to raise the Xover significantly. This occurs with all HDMI sources including HDDVD/XBOX360, Sony BDPS500, HD Cable (all updated to latest FW). I have tried swapping cables, amp channels, and speakers and have determined that the noise follows the preout. I'm going to try the balanced out this afternoon....
> 
> 
> Any similar issues?



We've had no other reports like this in this thread. What version of the Anthem firmware are you running? (Press Select on the remote and the firmware number will show up.)


It sounds to me like you have a hardware problem in your Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13565176
> 
> 
> That didn't work
> 
> 
> Now I have the D2 turning on 1st and waiting until its completely on before turning on everything else
> 
> 
> so far so good



I turn on my projector, then the Anthem, then any other sources. I did this not for any power up issues but due to HDMI weirdness (which went away once I followed this sequence).


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13563755
> 
> 
> Okay, so I'm not too interested in hearing about hockey right now.... arghh ... Canucks ... arghh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must say I'm really impressed with the service you got from Paradigm. Particularly since they gave you a new grill to fix a purely cosmetic issue too. Awesome.
> 
> 
> I too own the AVM50, and I'm a little envious of all this ARC discussion. I don't don't even want to make the call to my dealer about an upgrade, every time I go near the place it's major $$$



I feel your pain. I was routing for Edmonton and the Canucks to make it in. The more Canadian teams the better chance we get the cup back on Canadian soil for a change (No offense meant hahaa).


Well maybe no so much the Leafs, but that was just so I could see my beloved Habs in High def a couple times in the playoffs. Yeah I live in Toronto, but I spent my first 30 years in MTL and there is no undoing that.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN

One quick note.


I somehow managed to revert all my cross-overs back to THX 80Hz.


Room EQ was still on, but all the cross overs reverted.


While I don't know which effected it, I did change my Speaker setup to ( Center = No) and I also ran the Measurement only portion of the ARC-1 Advanced to troubleshoot the Center Tweeter issue.


I did not upload or even calculate the results of the Measurements so not sure how that could be it. Removing a speaker from the equations sure sounds like a more likely culprit. But while all the background EQ stuff still appears to be there based on turning Room EQ On/Off, the cross-overs at least went away.


So maybe just a heads up for us to maybe make a list of manual adjustments we might make that could change/effect the ARC-1 results and require a rerun to fully reset everything.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vivekg* /forum/post/13565244
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I got my new Anthem D2 late yesterday and had a few questions.
> 
> 
> First my setup:
> 
> 
> D2 running 1.30 (that's how it came, I have not updated to 1.31 or run Arc yet)
> 
> Sharp LC-52D64U connected via HDMI to D2 [HDMI Out]
> 
> Sony PS3 connected via HDMI to D2 [DVD 1, HDMI 2]
> 
> Verizon FIOS Motorola PVR (6416-2) connected via HDMI to D2 [SAT1, HDMI 1]
> 
> Intel Mac Mini connected via DVI-HDMI w optical audio to D2 [DVD 2, HDMI 3 w/ Optical 1]
> 
> Wii connected via component and analog stereo to D2 [Aux, Component 1 w/ Aux Stereo]
> 
> Harmony 360 (special XBox version of remote... it was cheap when CompUSA was going out of business)
> 
> 
> So that should give a general idea of how I have configured the items. Here are the problems I am having (and yes I downloaded the whole thread and searched... didn't sleep much last night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):
> 
> 
> 1) Mac Mini only gets an option for 1080i, directly to my TV I was able to do 1080p. I have tried the repeater on and off for HDMI. Any way to fix this? What resolution are others running at?
> 
> 
> 2) Harmony remote does not seem to work with the commands from their site or even with a few that I tried to memorize to change inputs. I also tried using the THX-8-5 command to change inputs (programmed into the harmony) but no joy. Is it my version of the Harmony remote or something else? I don't even get power on/off working.
> 
> 
> 3) This one is more looking for advice. I have FIOS and I get a green band down the right and a weird line down the left where it feels like there is a line that causes distortion in the image. So I have generally run the tv stretched for my cable input. Once I get the harmony working I could configure it to do that whenever I watch TV.. the question is what do others do?
> 
> 
> That's all the questions for now (only the beginning I'm sure). I finally was able to listen to some of my SACDs with the PS3 and they sounded fabulous. Now that it is daytime I have to try a few blu-rays to see how they sound.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Vivek



I'm not sure what's going on with your Mac Mini. Typically the problem with computer graphics cards is that the card changes its setup during its boot sequence and that confuses the HDMI handshake due to the information exchange having to happen twice. Gefen's "DVI Detective" product has proven helpful in many such cases. You place it between your computer and the Anthem and it tidies up that info exchange.


For the Harmony remote, make sure you have updated the firmware in the remote itself (Downloads button in their computer software application).


You will need to reload your Harmony setup after that.


If that doesn't do the trick, contact Harmony tech support (1-866-291-1505). They may need to set some stuff in your configuration that only they can set at their end. But if you can't even get the Anthem's power on and power off to function then it is probably more basic than that. The "Level 2" support guys can make any special changes needed in your remote's configuration data. For example, I had to get them to provide a special code that allowed the "7" key to react differently when held down so as to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. That change may already be in their D2 database by now.


On the FIOS stuff, if what you are experiencing is noise around the edges of the image (perhaps only on one side) and if that varies depending on which channel you are watching, then it is just that some channels aren't too careful about getting the edges right in what they send out, because most people have their TV's set to Overscan and so the edges are hidden beyond the edge of the screen. Anthem users should have Overscan turned off in the TV (if possible) so that you see the full image with 1:1 pixel mapping to the native resolution of the display. But that can make such noise in the edges of the broadcast content visible.


If it bothers you, you can turn Video Source Adjust / Crop Input / Edges On and select a number of pixels like "6". This crops a strip around all 4 sides of the incoming video. The Anthem scaler then adjusts that to your defined Video Output shape according to what you've asked it to do (e.g., Anamorphic or Letter/Pillar Box). You can set up one of the Overlayed inputs (e.g. TV2), to be just like your normal FIOS input, and then turn Edges On in its Video Source Adjust menu. Then you can switch back and forth between that one and your normal FIOS TV input when you need to clean up the edges.


The edge noise I'm talking about should be no more than 2-3 pixels wide on any given edge. It might be on one edge or a couple. If you are seeing something worse than that, then you have some other problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13566827
> 
> 
> One quick note.
> 
> 
> I somehow managed to revert all my cross-overs back to THX 80Hz.
> 
> 
> Room EQ was still on, but all the cross overs reverted.
> 
> 
> While I don't know which effected it, I did change my Speaker setup to ( Center = No) and I also ran the Measurement only portion of the ARC-1 Advanced to troubleshoot the Center Tweeter issue.
> 
> 
> I did not upload or even calculate the results of the Measurements so not sure how that could be it. Removing a speaker from the equations sure sounds like a more likely culprit. But while all the background EQ stuff still appears to be there based on turning Room EQ On/Off, the cross-overs at least went away.
> 
> 
> So maybe just a heads up for us to maybe make a list of manual adjustments we might make that could change/effect the ARC-1 results and require a rerun to fully reset everything.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



I'm not sure what the interaction is here between ARC and Load User Settings or Load Installer Settings since I haven't tested it enough. But Nick tells me that these, and Load Factory Defaults *DO NOT* alter the stuff that ARC actually uses in the D2.


That means, for example, that if you load ARC results into the D2 and then do a Load User Settings, I believe your cross over and speaker level settings will now show what you last "saved" into user settings from your manual setup. However, I believe ARC is still using the results *IT* calculated for any device with Room EQ = ON set.


In addition, I don't believe any manual changes you make in those Setup menu items will alter what ARC does for any source with Room EQ = ON. That is, I think you can make any manual changes you like in those menus and then switch Room EQ Off/On to see the difference between ARC's *UNCHANGED* results and what is now your new MANUAL setup. That would mean that to change any of these settings in ARC itself, you would need to make the change in the ARC application, re-calculate, and re-upload the new ARC results.

--Bob


----------



## bcljones

Is there a v1.20 setup editor for the AVM-50 (actually an AVM 20-HD)? I've got v1.12h, but it does not recognize my AVM 20-HD. I would like to upgrade the version to 1.31, but I want to save my settings before I do this.


Thanks,


Buddy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/13567075
> 
> 
> Is there a v1.20 setup editor for the AVM-50 (actually an AVM 20-HD)? I've got v1.12h, but it does not recognize my AVM 20-HD. I would like to upgrade the version to 1.31, but I want to save my settings before I do this.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Buddy



There is not.


If you follow the upgrade instructions for your AVM-50 you should be OK.


* Save user settings

* Run Live Video Settings Editor and Get and Save your Video Source Adjust menu settings to the PC.

* Reload Factory defaults.

* Do the upgrade.

* Load User Settings in the Anthem (your Video Source Adjust menu settings will not be loaded). Using Live Video Settings Editor, Open and Load the saved file of Video Source Adjust menu settings.

* Do the 30 Second power cycle described in the upgrade instructions.

* Verify that your Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu settings are properly restored.

* Save User Settings to get that memory updated with these restored settings including your Video Source Adjust menu settings.


I.e., your Setup menu stuff will survive the upgrade in Saved User Settings. But your Video Source Adjust menu stuff has to be separately stored to a computer file and reloaded from the computer after the upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13567045
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what's going on with your Mac Mini. Typically the problem with computer graphics cards is that the card changes its setup during its boot sequence and that confuses the HDMI handshake due to the information exchange having to happen twice. Gefen's "DVI Detective" product has proven helpful in many such cases. You place it between your computer and the Anthem and it tidies up that info exchange.
> 
> 
> For the Harmony remote, make sure you have updated the firmware in the remote itself (Downloads button in their computer software application).
> 
> 
> You will need to reload your Harmony setup after that.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't do the trick, contact Harmony tech support (1-866-291-1505). They may need to set some stuff in your configuration that only they can set at their end. But if you can't even get the Anthem's power on and power off to function then it is probably more basic than that. The "Level 2" support guys can make any special changes needed in your remote's configuration data. For example, I had to get them to provide a special code that allowed the "7" key to react differently when held down so as to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. That change may already be in their D2 database by now.
> 
> 
> On the FIOS stuff, if what you are experiencing is noise around the edges of the image (perhaps only on one side) and if that varies depending on which channel you are watching, then it is just that some channels aren't too careful about getting the edges right in what they send out, because most people have their TV's set to Overscan and so the edges are hidden beyond the edge of the screen. Anthem users should have Overscan turned off in the TV (if possible) so that you see the full image with 1:1 pixel mapping to the native resolution of the display. But that can make such noise in the edges of the broadcast content visible.
> 
> 
> If it bothers you, you can turn Video Source Adjust / Crop Input / Edges On and select a number of pixels like "6". This crops a strip around all 4 sides of the incoming video. The Anthem scaler then adjusts that to your defined Video Output shape according to what you've asked it to do (e.g., Anamorphic or Letter/Pillar Box). You can set up one of the Overlayed inputs (e.g. TV2), to be just like your normal FIOS input, and then turn Edges On in its Video Source Adjust menu. Then you can switch back and forth between that one and your normal FIOS TV input when you need to clean up the edges.
> 
> 
> The edge noise I'm talking about should be no more than 2-3 pixels wide on any given edge. It might be on one edge or a couple. If you are seeing something worse than that, then you have some other problem.
> 
> --Bob



I too have a Mac Mini connected to my Anthem, and the display properties box of the Mac also only allows 1080i. I wasn't too worried about it. To pretty much confirm what Bob said, the capabilities of the display and source device are exchanged during the handshake, something is most likely going wrong here. If anyone has tried the DVI detective specifically with a Mac Mini, let us know.


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13567110
> 
> 
> There is not.
> 
> 
> If you follow the upgrade instructions for your AVM-50 you should be OK.
> 
> 
> * Save user settings
> 
> * Run Live Video Settings Editor and Get and Save your Video Source Adjust menu settings to the PC.
> 
> * Reload Factory defaults.
> 
> * Do the upgrade.
> 
> * Load User Settings in the Anthem (your Video Source Adjust menu settings will not be loaded). Using Live Video Settings Editor, Open and Load the saved file of Video Source Adjust menu settings.
> 
> * Do the 30 Second power cycle described in the upgrade instructions.
> 
> * Verify that your Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu settings are properly restored.
> 
> * Save User Settings to get that memory updated with these restored settings including your Video Source Adjust menu settings.
> 
> 
> I.e., your Setup menu stuff will survive the upgrade in Saved User Settings. But your Video Source Adjust menu stuff has to be separately stored to a computer file and reloaded from the computer after the upgrade.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks for the quick reply. I tried the Live Video Settings Editor and it did not recognize the AVM 20-HD either, so I took the cable off of my D2 and tried it without success. I'm now wondering if something happened to my serial port on the AVM 20-HD during the upgrade at Anthem. I have not tried doing anything through the serial port since the upgrade before today. Any suggestions?


Buddy


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13567065
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what the interaction is here between ARC and Load User Settings or Load Installer Settings since I haven't tested it enough. But Nick tells me that these, and Load Factory Defaults *DO NOT* alter the stuff that ARC actually uses in the D2.
> 
> 
> That means, for example, that if you load ARC results into the D2 and then do a Load User Settings, I believe your cross over and speaker level settings will now show what you last "saved" into user settings from your manual setup. However, I believe ARC is still using the results *IT* calculated for any device with Room EQ = ON set.
> 
> 
> In addition, I don't believe any manual changes you make in those Setup menu items will alter what ARC does for any source with Room EQ = ON. That is, I think you can make any manual changes you like in those menus and then switch Room EQ Off/On to see the difference between ARC's *UNCHANGED* results and what is now your new MANUAL setup. That would mean that to change any of these settings in ARC itself, you would need to make the change in the ARC application, re-calculate, and re-upload the new ARC results.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah, that makes sense because with the Room EQ = On I did try and change some speakers from Advanced to anything else (left right) and nothing would happen. The Advanced stayed and the audio after a moment of silence sounded exactly the same as it did before.


I didn't try with Room EQ = Off, but I bet it would then have allowed the changes.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/13567257
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. I tried the Live Video Settings Editor and it did not recognize the AVM 20-HD either, so I took the cable off of my D2 and tried it without success. I'm now wondering if something happened to my serial port on the AVM 20-HD during the upgrade at Anthem. I have not tried doing anything through the serial port since the upgrade before today. Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Buddy



I went ahead and tried the AVM 50 1.31 upgrade and it found the AVM 20-HD with the same cable. Maybe the settings editor and live video settings editors do not work with the AVM 20-HD. Does anyone that has this processor know if these software programs work with your unit?


Buddy


----------



## misterdoggy

so Now I have it turning on and then it powers off.


Then after all the other components in the system are on I try again


and it works ?


I'm wondering what would happen if I went back to factory defaults and tried

turning it on and off. That way I could see if there was something in my settings that could be triggering the problem


I really don't think its Electricity or it wouldn't work at all.


Its not the 1.31 re-install either as that was successful.


I am getting closer to the decision to go with something else


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/13567392
> 
> 
> I went ahead and tried the AVM 50 1.31 upgrade and it found the AVM 20-HD with the same cable. Maybe the settings editor and live video settings editors do not work with the AVM 20-HD. Does anyone that has this processor know if these software programs work with your unit?
> 
> 
> Buddy



Well, the upgrade was a success, but I still can't use the settings editor to see the processor. Maybe the AVM 20-HD needs a specific version to work with the editors.


Buddy


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13567422
> 
> 
> so Now I have it turning on and then it powers off.
> 
> 
> Then after all the other components in the system are on I try again
> 
> 
> and it works ?
> 
> 
> I'm wondering what would happen if I went back to factory defaults and tried
> 
> turning it on and off. That way I could see if there was something in my settings that could be triggering the problem
> 
> 
> I really don't think its Electricity or it wouldn't work at all.
> 
> 
> Its not the 1.31 re-install either as that was successful.
> 
> 
> I am getting closer to the decision to go with something else



Well if your not happy your not happy. You need to be comfortable with your purchase.


Based on what you are saying however, that it works sometimes based on some external timing or configurations and not with others my guess would be that it may not be in fact the D2 that is the issue. Or at least not just the D2 as external variables seem to be effecting how and when you have this issue.


Have you gone through the scenarios with Anthem support? At the very least I would try that.


You have a lot of unique (or at least lesser seen variables there) including 220v step-down to 110, line conditioner, variable current based on end of line etc etc. Most of this may have been alleviated by running the dedicated circuit, but it may just be that the little surge that powering on the D2 and gave another users power conditioner fits, is giving your electrical environment fits regardless.


I am not an expert (or even novice) in the electrical field, but who can say what this does to your step-down device. Maybe a different brand of those is in order. Maybe take the D2 to a local HT store what set it up and try it there to see if you have the same issues? Or a friends on a different or more stable Urban electrical circuit or something.


In any case, I would think that Anthem directly would be by far your best option. I would detail out to them EVERY configuration you have tried and the results. Email that to them and then follow up with a call letting them know you had sent it. Try to get Nick on the case.


It sounds unique enough to attract their attention. I would think that your not the only overseas user so they may have seen similar before.


In any case, bast of luck and I hope it works out for you.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. As one of my general rules, if I am in doubt, I fall back to blaming myself and I am surprisingly often proven correct in this once I exhaust all the possibilities










I am also the worlds worst Self-Proofreader (Something I am sure you all already know as well by now hahaa)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/13567257
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. I tried the Live Video Settings Editor and it did not recognize the AVM 20-HD either, so I took the cable off of my D2 and tried it without success. I'm now wondering if something happened to my serial port on the AVM 20-HD during the upgrade at Anthem. I have not tried doing anything through the serial port since the upgrade before today. Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Buddy



Go to the Setup menu page that includes the Serial port settings and insure that they are still set to the factory defaults as shown in the picture of that menu in the manual.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

Hey Bob,


Couple questions on how you have (or anyone) has their harmony remote set up to do a couple of the common things you need.


I recently set up my 890 (Well lets say its on it's second or third pass in fine tuning and I have a list of adjustments to make).


Some of the things I was wondering how you handle were:


Any Key that opens a menu to a secondary option after holding for a period of time like your #7 example (Which hasn't made it to general distribution yet as I just tried it).


Same goes for Sub LFE/SETUP (Did you custom map this and the Menu?) Same for Centre etc, etc.


EDIT: Another example is to be able to hold down a source button to enable you to select a secondary audio to play with the existing video.


Since we often want to take a peak at what the D2 is doing while using one of the activities how do you manage that?


Do you switch to the Device D2 and then manipulate it from there and go back, or do you have custom buttons (screen or direct) setup within all your activities so you can access say the D2 SELECT button from right there?


At this point I still have all my remotes in a bucket on a side table (the D2 is beside the Harmony 890 on the table in easy reach lol) and whenever I need to grab one for something or other I cannot access directly I am making a note to enable it the next time I go into the Harmony Setup Editor, but I am still not 100% on how to best organize it.


I also have yet to figure out where to setup up macros (for example THX, 3 or whatever to access the SAT2 directly - may be the wrong code, but you get the idea). I read the manual and checked the online help and I guess I am just missing it somehow.


Anyway, thanks for any help/suggestions anyone can provide as always. I guess I could go to the universal remote section of the forum, but most of this is pretty D2 specific.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN

Also my Harmony has an annoying habit of forgetting if I used a specific devices On?Off to turn it on.


For example I was just flipping channels and there was this big fight on American Chopper which I paused. All the time my main activity was my Oppo where I was listening to Fleetwood Mac Rumours DVD-A.


The DVD-1 finished and I hit the Rogers Video activity and it turned my cable box off even though it should have known it was already on. I lost the fight hahaa. It seems like sometimes it remembers and sometimes it doesn't. Strange.


This happens to me a lot with my SAT Radio where I may turn it on and let it run in the background with the intent of then switching to it and scanning through the buffer for good song until I am live.


If I remember I can work around it by literally getting everything where I want device by device and then selecting the activity with the IR hidden in a pillow or something, but I want to switch over to the RF option once it is all set up. Then I will be able to turn it on and run things from anywhere in the loft, but this glitch would be a pain as there would be no "hiding the RF signal in a pillow lol)


Cheers,


Richard


Note: This question may be more 890 Generic and a candidate for the 890 thread.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

CAUTION:


I just re-did my ARC measurements. This time I was careful to make sure I "saved" the resulting Setup menu items to Saved User Settings before I did my first Load User Settings.


In my case this was complicated by the fact that my Video Source Adjust settings aren't being restored on power up. So I uploaded ARC and then uploaded the Video Source Adjust stuff using the file saved on my PC and Live Video Settings Editor. Then, leaving the D2 powered up, I did a Save User Settings.


Now when I power up I can do a Load User Settings (to get around my Video Source Adjust problem) and everything is as it was at the end of the ARC stuff.


And the results seem to be in better balance than before.


So although I haven't really nailed this down yet, I suspect that changes made to the Speaker Calibration Levels and to the Speaker Configuration by a Load User Settings do indeed alter ARC processing -- perhaps a bug.


So unless you have some need to preserve your manual settings, Save the results after you upload from ARC. If you DO have need to preserve your manual settings you may be able to do this in the other memory (Installer Settings).


Again, if this turns out to be correct, this contradicts what Nick told me -- so it may be a bug or I may just be blowing smoke here. I haven't done that much listening with my newest ARC settings.


So take all the above with a grain of salt until we can confirm this one way or the other.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RROSEN,

Give Harmony support a call.


On the buttons that need to be programmed to respond differently if held down for a few seconds: Level 2 support can make a change to the code definition for each such button and that will fix it.


They've done that change for me (many months ago) so it should be in the D2 database by now. But you won't see such changes unless you delete and re-add the D2 as a new device, or ask them to adjust the specific buttons individually. If the change they did for me is NOT in the D2 database entry, they will hand off the problem to their specialists, and you'll get your configuration updated in a couple days. They are really quite good at such stuff, and will call you back when it is ready to try.


On the power on/off management: There are a number of things that can get the Harmony confused -- most commonly doing power stuff in a device's own page instead of by changing from one activity to another. But if you've got a configuration problem Harmony tech support can handle that for you. It could be as easy as that you are mistakenly using the power button command from a shared remote (such as your cable TV remote) that acts on more than one device at a time.


Personally I have only a few device specific items in the Activities. For example I have the D2's Mode key and Up/Down keys in each activity for easily changing the audio mode. But I don't have the Left/Right arrows. If I want to do something in the Video Source Adjust menu, for example, where I would need those, I go to the Device page for the D2 and all the buttons are there for me.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/13567498
> 
> 
> Well, the upgrade was a success, but I still can't use the settings editor to see the processor. Maybe the AVM 20-HD needs a specific version to work with the editors.
> 
> 
> Buddy



Make sure you are using the version of Live Video Settings Editor that came with the V1.31 installer. Make sure that your Serial port is assigned to a port in the range COM1 to COM6.


If that doesn't fix it for you, give Anthem tech support a call.


ETA: Just to double check, there are TWO different applications here. "Setup Editor", which is used to deal with Setup menu items -- does not exist yet in a version compatible with V1.2x or V1.3x D2 firmware. Do not try to use any version of Setup Editor with this new D2 firmware. Live Video Settings Editor -- which is used to deal with the Video Source Adjust menu items -- DOES exist, as V1.20 (included in the V1.31 firmware install kit) -- and that should work with your V1.31 firmware install.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13568032
> 
> 
> CAUTION:
> 
> 
> I just re-did my ARC measurements. This time I was careful to make sure I "saved" the resulting Setup menu items to Saved User Settings before I did my first Load User Settings.
> 
> 
> In my case this was complicated by the fact that my Video Source Adjust settings aren't being restored on power up. So I uploaded ARC and then uploaded the Video Source Adjust stuff using the file saved on my PC and Live Video Settings Editor. Then, leaving the D2 powered up, I did a Save User Settings.
> 
> 
> Now when I power up I can do a Load User Settings (to get around my Video Source Adjust problem) and everything is as it was at the end of the ARC stuff.
> 
> 
> And the results seem to be in better balance than before.
> 
> 
> So although I haven't really nailed this down yet, I suspect that changes made to the Speaker Calibration Levels and to the Speaker Configuration by a Load User Settings do indeed alter ARC processing -- perhaps a bug.
> 
> 
> So unless you have some need to preserve your manual settings, Save the results after you upload from ARC. If you DO have need to preserve your manual settings you may be able to do this in the other memory (Installer Settings).
> 
> 
> Again, if this turns out to be correct, this contradicts what Nick told me -- so it may be a bug or I may just be blowing smoke here. I haven't done that much listening with my newest ARC settings.
> 
> 
> So take all the above with a grain of salt until we can confirm this one way or the other.
> 
> --Bob



I ran and uploaded ARC yesterday. I updated my fw to 1.31a today. After I loaded my settings, I noticed that the ARC settings had disappeared. I had to re-upload the ARC settings again. I guess it's because I didn't do a save user settings after I uploaded the ARC results. Anyway, I will take your suggestion and now do a save user settings. Hopefully, this should save the ARC stuff too right?


----------



## 3no

I installed 1.31 a week ago in preparation for ARC which was on order. No problem, worked first time. My ARC kit arrived and this afternoon I installed and ran the software. It appeared to run correctly. The corrrection results graphs looked pretty good. When I went to try it out I found the D2 was really screwed up. On power up it would display Anthem Statement D2 but not much else. No outputs, volume control had no result. The remote could make it cycle through it's status report but could not get it into setup mode or just about anything else. Front panel on/off worked, the center buttons worked (tone control disable, etc.) but that was about it.


As I write this I'm reinstalling 1.31 (newly downloaded from the Anthem site)to see if that will recover the unit, then I plan on rerunning ARC (also newly downloaded instead of the version on the CD) from the saved results if I can figure out how to do that.


Has anyone else had any similar problems with the D2 after running ARC?


----------



## RROSEN

Not I, nor have I seen any posts similar to yours regarding ARC-1 issues.


Any issues seem to have been 1.31 related and you are the first that seems to have pinpointed it to ARC-1.


The files I got on my CD were the same as those online by the way since I checked.


Did you try reloading your saved user settings or factory defaults to see if that fixed the issues?


You can reload the ARC-1 by starting it up in Advanced mode and loading on of your measurement saves and then calculating and uploading it. I think you could go right to Load if you can open an ARC-1 saved file that already has the calculated targets etc in it.


Good luck,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13568225
> 
> 
> I ran and uploaded ARC yesterday. I updated my fw to 1.31a today. After I loaded my settings, I noticed that the ARC settings had disappeared. I had to re-upload the ARC settings again. I guess it's because I didn't do a save user settings after I uploaded the ARC results. Anyway, I will take your suggestion and now do a save user settings. Hopefully, this should save the ARC stuff too right?



What Nick told me was that the ARC stuff was saved independently of User Settings and Installer Settings, and that even a Load Factory Defaults wouldn't clear it out.


The idea is SUPPOSED to be that you can have a manual setup and the ARC setup and select between them for any source by turning Room EQ On/Off for that source.


When you upload ARC it changes the current cross-over and speaker volume settings to what it had calculated, but in theory you should be able to change those to something else (such as by Load User Settings) and it won't alter what ARC uses for any source where Room EQ = ON is set.


HOWEVER, I'm beginning to think it doesn't actually work that way, and that any changes made in those Setup menu (again, such as by Load User Settings where you haven't saved after uploading the ARC results) could screw up ARC. It may turn out that I'm completely wrong on this. It's kind of tough to know since I'm not used to what ARC should be able to do yet. So I'm just putting it out as a Caution that I have a suspicion changing those Setup menus after Uploading ARC results could screw up ARC. This needs to be confirmed or refuted. If you don't want to worry about it, just make sure you Save User Settings (or Installer Settings) after Uploading ARC results and then don't futz with those Setup menu items manually either.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13568641
> 
> 
> What Nick told me was that the ARC stuff was saved independently of User Settings and Installer Settings, and that even a Load Factory Defaults wouldn't clear it out.
> 
> 
> The idea is SUPPOSED to be that you can have a manual setup and the ARC setup and select between them for any source by turning Room EQ On/Off for that source.
> 
> 
> When you upload ARC it changes the current cross-over and speaker volume settings to what it had calculated, but in theory you should be able to change those to something else (such as by Load User Settings) and it won't alter what ARC uses for any source where Room EQ = ON is set.
> 
> 
> HOWEVER, I'm beginning to think it doesn't actually work that way, and that any changes made in those Setup menu (again, such as by Load User Settings where you haven't saved after uploading the ARC results) could screw up ARC. It may turn out that I'm completely wrong on this. It's kind of tough to know since I'm not used to what ARC should be able to do yet. So I'm just putting it out as a Caution that I have a suspicion changing those Setup menus after Uploading ARC results could screw up ARC. This needs to be confirmed or refuted. If you don't want to worry about it, just make sure you Save User Settings (or Installer Settings) after Uploading ARC results and then don't futz with those Setup menu items manually either.
> 
> --Bob



I saved the settings after I uploaded ARC results. I'm not going to change anything in the setup menu that relates to anything ARC has done.


Also, has the OSD setup menu problem been fixed? Mine is still very iffy as far as displaying the setup menu on the TV.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13568703
> 
> 
> Also, has the OSD setup menu problem been fixed? Mine is still very iffy as far as displaying the setup menu on the TV.



My problem with OSD of the Setup menu was fixed when I loaded the V1.31a test version of the software (trying to fix my Video Source Adjust vs power-cycles problem).


It may just have been coincidence that V1.31a fixed Setup menu display for me as Nick made no mention of any fix for that in that version.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just completed re-running ARC to test operation with and without the bass EQ built into my Velodyne subwoofer.


The short answer is the ARC results curves look better WITHOUT the Velodyne EQ active.


I'll try to post some curves later this evening so you can see what I mean. If someone can remind me how to trigger a screen capture in Windows XP that would be helpful (I'm a Mac user normally).


Apparently what's going on is that the filters I set up in the Velodyne's EQ are all "cuts" -- reduction of output -- positioned to eliminate peaks in the room's bass response. I also have the internal crossover in the sub disabled.


The Velodyne is actually capable of going rather high in frequency, and apparently the Anthem's sub cross over filter is fairly shallow.


The result is that the "measured" bass response of the Velodyne with EQ is perfect, but above the cross over it is WAY too hot! So when ARC reduces that it cuts too much out of the true bass coming from the Sub as well. So the "calculated" bass response is uniformly below the target.


With the Velodyne EQ turned off, the Velodyne is still hot above the crossover but the relative difference is much smaller because its internal EQ filters aren't chewing up output power in the true bass frequencies.


And that means that ARC can get the "calculated" bass response spot on except for some peaking right near 20 Hz (probably the remnants of "boundary gain" due to the placement of the Sub near a wall).


When I measure the resulting setup using the Velodyne's test sweeps I find the true bass region is quite flat indeed at my different listening positions, but the area above the crossover is still hot. Whereas with the EQ in place (and corresponding ARC) that effect is reduced.


I think I'm going to trust that ARC has this right. So for now I've got ARC results loaded based on the Velodyne's internal EQ being turned off. I'll report back after some listening.


-------------------------------------------------------


Another thing I tried was varying the height of the ARC measurement points.


My main listening location is a long sofa sitting in the open. So I took 3 measurements at seated ear height at the center and either end of that sofa. The sofa center position was the first measurement (the important central point).


Then, since I do a lot of listening while standing BEHIND that sofa, I took 3 more measurements at STANDING ear height about 3 feet back of the on-sofa measurements. Those 6 measurements went into the calculation and the resulting volumes and cross over settings seem to make good sense (75 Hz for the fronts, 65 Hz for the Center, 80 Hz for the Surrounds, and 100 Hz for the Subwoofer).


I also checked speaker volume using the 5.1 tests on the SD-DVD Digital Video Essentials (DVE) disc. NOTE: Remember to TURN OFF THX processing in the Anthem when doing this. The measured SPL at 0dB D2 Main Volume setting was quite close all the way around -- with the Sub being just a few dB hot (a common preference, and something I suspect is built into ARC).


So the basic results all look good and now I'll just have to do a bunch of listening and see if I spot any issues.


Again, I'll post some curves later if I can figure out how to do a Windows XP screen capture.

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13568421
> 
> 
> I installed 1.31 a week ago in preparation for ARC which was on order. No problem, worked first time. My ARC kit arrived and this afternoon I installed and ran the software. It appeared to run correctly. The corrrection results graphs looked pretty good. When I went to try it out I found the D2 was really screwed up. On power up it would display Anthem Statement D2 but not much else. No outputs, volume control had no result. The remote could make it cycle through it's status report but could not get it into setup mode or just about anything else. Front panel on/off worked, the center buttons worked (tone control disable, etc.) but that was about it.
> 
> 
> As I write this I'm reinstalling 1.31 (newly downloaded from the Anthem site)to see if that will recover the unit, then I plan on rerunning ARC (also newly downloaded instead of the version on the CD) from the saved results if I can figure out how to do that.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had any similar problems with the D2 after running ARC?



Fixed. Turned out to be the DVI input from my HTPC to the D2 was preventing the D2 from compleeting its boot-up. I had the DVI out from the HTPC connected to a monitor during the ARC setup, then moved the DVI connection to the D2 without rebooting the PC. Whatever state that left the DVI output in must have hosed the D2. It was repeatable, but after rebooting the PC everything was fine.


I find that ARC has a large impact. Front soundstage more seamless (as others have reported). Dialog is much crisper and more loacalized in the center. Mid and high frequencies are much improved. Bass, however, seems to be overly loud now on some source material and just more prominent but not overly so on others. On one source I needed to reduce the sub by 5db to make it acceptable. And I did enable Room EQ on all sources, one at a time (they came up disabled after running ARC). Might be my ear being used to the previous setup. I'll keep experimenting...


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13568940
> 
> 
> Again, I'll post some curves later if I can figure out how to do a Windows XP screen capture.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, it's Alt + PrintScreen to copy the active window to the Clipboard. Then open up Paint/PhotoShop/Paint Shop Pro [insert your image editor of choice] and Paste into a new image.


----------



## RROSEN

Well with a standard Windows 102 Keyboard you just hit the [Prt Scr] button above the [Ins] button.


A search got me these:


CTRL+ALT+Minus sign (-) (Place a snapshot of the entire client window area on the Terminal server clipboard and provide the same functionality as pressing ALT+PRINT SCREEN on a local computer.)

*CTRL+ALT+Plus sign (+) (Place a snapshot of the active window in the client on the Terminal server clipboard and provide the same functionality as pressing PRINT SCREEN on a local computer.)*


the second one sounds more likely to work.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13567422
> 
> 
> so Now I have it turning on and then it powers off.
> 
> 
> Then after all the other components in the system are on I try again
> 
> 
> and it works ?
> 
> 
> I'm wondering what would happen if I went back to factory defaults and tried
> 
> turning it on and off. That way I could see if there was something in my settings that could be triggering the problem
> 
> 
> I really don't think its Electricity or it wouldn't work at all.
> 
> 
> Its not the 1.31 re-install either as that was successful.
> 
> 
> I am getting closer to the decision to go with something else



I also have this problem with my D2 powering off only at startup. In the 6 months I have had the D2, it has only happened maybe 10 times so it is not enough for me to give up on the D2. I tried the firmware update (1.20 to 1.30a) with no luck. I will call Anthem soon to see if the new 1.31a would help.


FYI, Anthem thought it might be an undervoltage problem. I tried a dedicated 20A circuit with no power conditioner and powering the D2 on by itself with nothing else turning on. No luck.


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well my problem in posting these was that I needed to find the Mac keyboard combo that would make the Bootcamp environment feed an Alt-Print Screen to Windows XP. Turns out it is SHIFT-FN-OPTION-F11. I can't imagine why that wasn't just obvious to me...










These first two are from the run I did with the Velodyne's internal bass EQ system ACTIVATED. Note that the Surround speakers are shown in both screen captures:





















These next two are from the run I did with the Velodyne's internal bass EQ system DISABLED. The 6 measurement positions are identical to the first run (as closely as I could do it by eye):




















=============================


ETA: For folks trying to include images like this, the key combo copies the active window into the clipboard. I then Pasted into the Paint application (included in XP), then Save As, selecting a JPEG file as the format. Repeat for each image capture. The four files were then uploaded to a free image hosting account at www.photobucket.com which only takes 5 minutes to set up from scratch.


Once uploaded, each image has it's own "img" string, complete with the "img" tags at either end of the URL to make the URL get displayed as an image here. Just Copy each "img" string and Paste into the post you are composing here. Quote this message to see what it looks like. Use the Preview button to verify it's working before you Submit the post.

--Bob


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChantheMan* /forum/post/13569297
> 
> 
> I also have this problem with my D2 powering off only at startup. In the 6 months I have had the D2, it has only happened maybe 10 times so it is not enough for me to give up on the D2. I tried the firmware update (1.20 to 1.30a) with no luck. I will call Anthem soon to see if the new 1.31a would help.
> 
> 
> FYI, Anthem thought it might be an undervoltage problem. I tried a dedicated 20A circuit with no power conditioner and powering the D2 on by itself with nothing else turning on. No luck.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Chantheman,


Sounds like undervoltage maybe ? I know I have problems in my area for sure because they are fixing the Transformers this spring


Also the fact that you have a dedicated 20 amp line (like me) doesn't correct the problem if the juice coming to the house is either low current which you can have with correct voltage or low voltage.


They do have things like products by furman which keep the voltage regulated at a steady flow. I would call them if I were you, but first I would check my power when that occurs to see if that is the case.


My problem is more complex because I have low voltage problems and I am running a 100 unit on a step down transformer. Theoretically it should not make a difference but it seems the D2 is hyper sensitive.


----------



## 3no

Bob-


Any idea where the target comes from? Your sub target appears quite reasonable while mine (and another earlier poster) have a considerable low-end dropoff. After looking at the graphs, my only guess is that ARC is trying to match the target to what it believes is the inherent capability of the speaker, in my case curve fitting to the measured 30-100Hz range.


My sub is a DD15 and ARC was run with DD15 equalization ON. I'll first try running ARC again with the DD15 EQ OFF and check the result. If that isn't satisfactory I'll redo the DD15 EQ to try to get a flatter response at the ARC's primary measurement point.


Another surprise is the vastly different ARC view of the sub's measured response vs. what the DD15 EQ measured when I did that setup (over a year ago). One more reason to try ARC with the DD15 EQ OFF.


----------



## 3no

Disabled EQ on the DD15 and reran ARC. Huge difference in target. Looks like ARC sets the target based on the measured capability.


So... maybe if I rerun the DD15 EQ to get a much flatter bottom end response measured at ARC mic position 1, then when I rerun ARC again with DD15 EQ ON, ARC will think I have a super sub and set a more aggressive target (less low-end drop off).


----------



## tngiloy

I wanted to look at my graphs to compare them with the ones posted here, but as I've said before I am a computer moron.

I opened up the ARC program from my desktop, and it opened up ready to re-run, but I couldn't access the graphs from my run I did Friday.

So I closed the program, then right clicked on the ARC desktop icon and went into 'properties',etc., but still could find no way to access my graphs.

Does the computer need to be hooked up tp my D2 to access the graphs?

RROSEN may have answered this earlier, but is the ARC software on the CD that came with it the same as is on the Anthem website?

Tom


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13571469
> 
> 
> I wanted to look at my graphs to compare them with the ones posted here, but as I've said before I am a computer moron.
> 
> I opened up the ARC program from my desktop, and it opened up ready to re-run, but I couldn't access the graphs from my run I did Friday.
> 
> So I closed the program, then right clicked on the ARC desktop icon and went into 'properties',etc., but still could find no way to access my graphs.
> 
> Does the computer need to be hooked up tp my D2 to access the graphs?
> 
> RROSEN may have answered this earlier, but is the ARC software on the CD that came with it the same as is on the Anthem website?
> 
> Tom



Fire up ARC, but select the advanced option on the first screen. Then open the saved info from when you ran the measurements. The file name should be at the bottom of the File menu with a "1" in front of it, named ARC somethingorother.ARC if you didn't change the default.


----------



## tngiloy

Thanks. Its amazing. It works!

Can you explain to me why the 'target' for the subwoofer would be different with and without the subs built-in room correction being on? I would think the target would be the target, period.

One more question. Since my D2 was originally set up with 2 subs (hooked up independently into 'sub1' and 'sub2' via unbalanced connections on the back of the D2) did the ARC do the calibration testing both subs, or just sub1?

I didn't want to step into the room during the calibration, so I couldn't tell if both subs were active during the sweeps.

Tom


----------



## RROSEN

FYI *IR2BT PS3 Bluetooth to IR adapters.*


Limited number will be available at noon EST today for online ordering.


For those that were waiting for one.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. Please wait till my order gets accepted







I kid.


Edit: Got one!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13570706
> 
> 
> Bob-
> 
> 
> Any idea where the target comes from? Your sub target appears quite reasonable while mine (and another earlier poster) have a considerable low-end dropoff. After looking at the graphs, my only guess is that ARC is trying to match the target to what it believes is the inherent capability of the speaker, in my case curve fitting to the measured 30-100Hz range.
> 
> 
> My sub is a DD15 and ARC was run with DD15 equalization ON. I'll first try running ARC again with the DD15 EQ OFF and check the result. If that isn't satisfactory I'll redo the DD15 EQ to try to get a flatter response at the ARC's primary measurement point.



I'm not at all sure what's going on with the "targets". I noticed that the "target" for my CENTER channel rolled off above 10KHz when the Velodyne's internal EQ was turned on! With the Velodyne EQ turned off the Center channel target is flat out there (although both the measured and calculated curves still roll off).


When using a manual D2 setup for the Velodyne DD subs, THX Ultra 2 should probably be turned ON in the Room Resonance Filter menu (WHETHER OR NOT you are actually "Applying" the Room Resonance filter itself). And if the sub is near a wall, you should probably also turn on Boundary Gain Compensation (an additional very low frequency cut to reduce the effect of the nearby wall). But I DON'T know if those two settings have any effect on ARC's measured response, its targets, its calculated results, and the real result after uploading ARC measurements. That last one, at least, would be easy enough to check by turning them OFF/ON in Setup (after uploading ARC results made with them on) and seeing if the Velodyne's own graphic response curve varies down around 20Hz or lower.


-------------------------------


I'm also wondering why they stopped the high end of the EQ stuff at 5KHz?


It may be that is a compromise setting to make sure there is enough processing power to deal with a wide range of room problems below that. But if you have a fairly clean room to begin with, raising that limit higher might still produce good results -- including higher up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13571607
> 
> 
> Thanks. Its amazing. It works!
> 
> Can you explain to me why the 'target' for the subwoofer would be different with and without the subs built-in room correction being on? I would think the target would be the target, period.
> 
> One more question. Since my D2 was originally set up with 2 subs (hooked up independently into 'sub1' and 'sub2' via unbalanced connections on the back of the D2) did the ARC do the calibration testing both subs, or just sub1?
> 
> I didn't want to step into the room during the calibration, so I couldn't tell if both subs were active during the sweeps.
> 
> Tom



What's going on with the Targets is still a mystery.


ARC has no choice but to use both your subs simultaneously. Those output jacks always carry the same signal (presuming you have the Setup menu set to use the second one as a Subwoofer output at all).


The 1 Sub vs. 2 Subs setting in the D2's Setup menu does nothing more than lower the test tone to account for the extra driver during speaker level testing -- just a convenience thing for you when doing the manual level setting tests. ARC doesn't need to know that since it automatically adjusts Sub volume level for you.


I also have no idea whether the "Super" Sub setting in the Setup menu has any affect on ARC. Super Sub should be sending bass BOTH to the Sub and the mains (not really a recommended setting), but I don't know if it applies when ARC is testing or after ARC results are loaded.


----------------------------------


As for testing, a WIRELESS MOUSE is your friend! Even if the computer is positioned between the D2 and the ARC mic, you can step away from the computer (so that you are not between the speakers and the mic) and click on the "OK" button from a distance to start the ARC test tones. So much more convenient than getting prone below the coffee table or something.


----------------------------------


I'm actually rather surprised that the ARC test tone sweeps are as low volume as they are. I understand Anthem had to reduce the test tone volume (in ARC V1.1) because some people's subwoofers were clipping the higher output level, but where they have it now makes it more sensitive to ambient noise. I thought ARC testing would be at "disturb the neighbors" levels, but it is really much MUCH quieter than that.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13571755
> 
> 
> FYI *IR2BT PS3 Bluetooth to IR adapters.*
> 
> 
> Limited number will be available at noon EST today for online ordering.
> 
> 
> For those that were waiting for one.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> PS. Please wait till my order gets accepted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kid.
> 
> 
> Edit: Got one!



I got order# 306 I'll put up some ARC graghs, as soon i figure out how to


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13571755
> 
> 
> FYI *IR2BT PS3 Bluetooth to IR adapters.*
> 
> 
> Limited number will be available at noon EST today for online ordering.
> 
> 
> For those that were waiting for one.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> PS. Please wait till my order gets accepted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kid.
> 
> 
> Edit: Got one!



Thanks for the headsup. I already have a Schmartz usb/ir adapter, but I ordered one of these to have full functionality.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13571884
> 
> 
> I'm not at all sure what's going on with the "targets". I noticed that the "target" for my CENTER channel rolled off above 10KHz when the Velodyne's internal EQ was turned on! With the Velodyne EQ turned off the Center channel target is flat out there (although both the measured and calculated curves still roll off).
> 
> 
> When using a manual D2 setup for the Velodyne DD subs, THX Ultra 2 should probably be turned ON in the Room Resonance Filter menu (WHETHER OR NOT you are actually "Applying" the Room Resonance filter itself). And if the sub is near a wall, you should probably also turn on Boundary Gain Compensation (an additional very low frequency cut to reduce the effect of the nearby wall). But I DON'T know if those two settings have any effect on ARC's measured response, its targets, its calculated results, and the real result after uploading ARC measurements. That last one, at least, would be easy enough to check by turning them OFF/ON in Setup (after uploading ARC results made with them on) and seeing if the Velodyne's own graphic response curve varies down around 20Hz or lower.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------
> 
> 
> I'm also wondering why they stopped the high end of the EQ stuff at 5KHz?
> 
> 
> It may be that is a compromise setting to make sure there is enough processing power to deal with a wide range of room problems below that. But if you have a fairly clean room to begin with, raising that limit higher might still produce good results -- including higher up.
> 
> --Bob



After your previous post on possibly running the ARC-1 with the room correction stuff activated and the Ultra 2 sub enabled to ensure full bandwidth I set it up.


I basically ran the internal resonance sweeps, set up the filter target, depth and peak, turned on the Ultra 2 and room boundary compensation and reran ARC-1 with everything activated. It did change my Sub graph slightly, but nothing dramatic. I think that in the end either ARC-1 over-rides most of these internal settings (IE. Baselines the internal stuff just like it ignores any existing cross overs or speaker +/- dB setting) or else my sub (Paradigm Seismic 12) simply does roll off as it is recording.


I did some checks of reviews of the sub and while its a solid sub, in reviews it consistently started to roll off between 30Hz and 20Hz and with my room resonance sweeps pretty much had the last perceptible impact at around 17hz so for me these measurements are most likely bang on.


Now I need to switch up to the Signature Servo or something hahaa. You know, once I am out of this Loft and can actually enjoy the benefit of it










Cheers,


Richard


PS. After we have all been playing around with it for a while we should add an ARC-1 Section to the start of the threads tweaking section (And By We, we all know who







).


I for one would love a definition and explanation of each of the settings under the advanced menu.


I can understand the mass of permutations and combinations there and how each will react differently depending on the room which is why Anthem basically says your on your own there.


That said, I would think that at least some basic documentation of what they are and how they effect the ARC-1 Measurements and/or calculations should have been included. As it stands, I can't even begin to experiment with it.


Maybe a good thing, but the worst case scenario would be I just rerun the Standard if I make a poopy trying to be creative with it (in my house we call them little Uh Ohs).


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## 3no

I re-EQ'ed the DD15, but this time did it differntly than the original EQ. When I did it originally I followed Velo's instructions which has you basically EQ the combination of sub and front mains working in parallel (makes sense). But ARC listens to each speaker separately so when it swept the sub alone it heard only the sub part of the original Velo combination EQ, i.e. only what the sub needed to contribute to make up for the shortcomings of the mains. Then ARC set the sub target (I'm guessing here) based on what it had measured as the capability of the sub during the sweep. So this time I re-EQ-ed the DD15 using only the sub (used the sub input on 6 channel and turned off the mains). Tweaked until I had a nice flat response from 20 to 100Hz, then saved that as the custom EQ in the DD15. Then ran ARC again. This time ARC saw a sub that was within +/-1 db from 20-100Hz and set a much more aggressive target (and had no problem hitting the target).


Haven't listened to it yet- going to do that now.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/13572108
> 
> 
> I got order# 306 I'll put up some ARC graphs, as soon i figure out how to



# 286 for the WIN hahaa











OK, hopefully we both win, but since they said they would be shipping 100 per week it will be interesting to see if I get mine a week earlier or if they all just get jumbled together.


I like how they sent the email out late last night with the heads up though. I barely caught it.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Using the Advance mode of ARC I redid the Calculations on my measurements made with the Velodyne EQ turned off -- this time with the ARC Target upper frequency raised an octave to 10KHz.


The calculated results do show the EQ effect extended out from 5KHz to 10KHz. Checking the rest of the calculated curves I have a little more deviation around 500Hz (about +/- 1dB more) in just the LF main speaker, but everything else there, and in the other speakers looks VERY close to what ARC had previously calculated.


I'm going to upload these 10K results and see if I can hear any difference.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13572315
> 
> 
> So this time I re-EQ-ed the DD15 using only the sub



Yes. That graph looks much better! Wow. Almost makes me wonder if adding the Velo external EQ to my HGS18 would be worth it.










I was pleased to see my sub results with the ARC-1. My room is quite large, at 24'x30' with an open A frame ceiling peaked at 12'. There is an attached kitchen at the "back" of the room with an open 7'x10' "doorway". To the front is the game room which connects by a 7'x6' double doorway. So, there is lots of open air in the room and lots of places for it to escape.


Even so, the HGS18 does a nice job at filling the bass. However, I'm wondering if these large dimensions are the reason for the 5kHz dropoff I am seeing? I don't know much about sound engineering. Any suggestions?


I can close off the double doors to the game room, but most of the time they are open, so I ran the ARC-1 with the doors open. The opening to the kitchen is open and cannot be closed. There are also large bay windows at the end of the room.







Not much I can do, may just have to live with it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim,

Subs work by "pressurizing" the air volume of the listening room. You may just not have enough sub for the volume of air in your listening space. Or you may simply need to reposition the sub (perhaps only a few inches) to better couple with the room


Velodyne has a calculator on their web site that offers suggestions for how much subwoofer you need to handle rooms of various volumes. You may need to add a second sub for example.


If you get enough bass volume from too small a sub you may be driving the sub to distortion as well.


Check out the subwoofer forum here and see if you can extract some useful technical advice from the mass of fanboy-speak in there.


One trick for sub positioning is to temporarily move the sub to your LISTENING position, and then doing SPL (or Velodyne's SMS-1 test sweep) measurements at various possible sub placement locations. The coupling of the sub to the room works both ways, so the best measurement position when the sub is in your listening spot will also be the best sub placement position when you are seated in your listening spot.


You do still have the rented forklift you used to position that 18" beast in the first place don't you?

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

As for testing, a WIRELESS MOUSE is your friend! Even if the computer is positioned between the D2 and the ARC mic, you can step away from the computer (so that you are not between the speakers and the mic) and click on the "OK" button from a distance to start the ARC test tones. So much more convenient than getting prone below the coffee table or something.

--Bob


WOW! Were you watching me? Actually 'crouching behind the coffee table' would be a more accurate description.

But just for clarification, is the cd software that came ARC-1 mic the same as is on the website?

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13572579
> 
> 
> But just for clarification, is the cd software that came ARC-1 mic the same as is on the website?
> 
> Tom



At the moment yes. The firmware on both is V1.31 and the Windows ARC application on both is V1.1.


There is a test firmware version V1.31a on their tech support page that Anthem had me use in an effort to fix my problem preserving Video Source Adjust menu settings over power cycles (it didn't fix it). I don't know of any other changes that might be in V1.31a.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

Have I just missed it, or has nothing been negative said about the ARC?


----------



## ninja12

Below are my results after running the ARC-1.




















I also re-ran my sub eq on my Velodyne DD18. I noticed that the frequency curves looks worse after running ARC-1. I pretty much had a pretty flat response across my frequencies. Ok, maybe with 1 to 2 db; but, none the less, it was good. After the ARC-1, I am seeing dips in places that were flat. However, the sub does sound better after running the ARC-1. It sounds tighter and fuller. It blends well with my mains. So, in this case, I'm going to stick with what I am hearing and not what I am seeing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/13572720
> 
> 
> Have I just missed it, or has nothing been negative said about the ARC?



You have missed it.


There are a couple reports here that ARC may improperly roll off the very low bass frequencies too much. It appears that the bass targets used by ARC can change for reasons not yet explained. However, when the targets are good the results are good. The graphs ARC offers tell the story so you'll know whether it is producing good stuff for you.


I've also got some suspicion that I may be hearing processing artifacts in the high frequencies, but it's too early to be sure. The ARC write up says that mic height is crucial to getting this right, and I may be hearing the results of doing my 6 measurements at 2 different mic heights.


There are also reports that you may have to redo measurements because ARC thinks it is hearing too much background noise and that you may need to redo the upload of results to the D2 a couple times before it verifies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here are my latest ARC results: 6 Measurements -- 3 at seated ear height on the sofa, 3 at standing ear height behind the sofa. Velodyne EQ DISABLED. ARC Target upper frequency raised from 5KHz to 10KHz. Again note that the Surround speakers show up in both of these screen captures. Compare to the NO Velodyne EQ results with the default 5KHz target on the previous page. NOTE: I didn't remeasure here. Just recalculated based on yesterday's measurements and with the new Target upper frequency:





















I wonder why some of us are seeing upper frequency targets that roll off for some of the Main speakers, and others (like me) are seeing the target as flat all the way out to the highest frequency?

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

It is a shame, that we also can not see the after measurements, just the calculated changes. Do we know if this is something that Anthem is going to give us?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ninja12,

WOW! Those are some serious room coupling effects you had there! Particular those pre-ARC dip and peak swings in the Right Front response.


ARC should be a BIG win for you.


How does it sound?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/13573000
> 
> 
> It is a shame, that we also can not see the after measurements, just the calculated changes. Do we know if this is something that Anthem is going to give us?



It would seem like a natural thing to add. One difficulty is that it is pretty unlikely you could get the ARC mic precisely repositioned to where you had it when you did the original measurements. So there would be some expected differences in calculated targets and actual results just due to that.


I would also like to see a way to force a re-measurement at just one mic location without having to do the whole thing over again -- just in case you know there was some background noise or other issue (e.g., you were standing between some speaker and the mic) even though ARC itself didn't complain.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13573042
> 
> 
> ninja12,
> 
> WOW! Those are some serious room coupling effects you had there! Particular those pre-ARC dip and peak swings in the Right Front response.
> 
> 
> ARC should be a BIG win for you.
> 
> 
> How does it sound?
> 
> --Bob



It really sounds good. The soundstage is definitely better and more seamless. I'm really happy with the results so far. However, I will begin to experiment more as I become more comfortable using the ARC-1.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13572790
> 
> 
> I also re-ran my sub eq on my Velodyne DD18. I noticed that the frequency curves looks worse after running ARC-1. I pretty much had a pretty flat response across my frequencies. Ok, maybe with 1 to 2 db; but, none the less, it was good. After the ARC-1, I am seeing dips in places that were flat. However, the sub does sound better after running the ARC-1. It sounds tighter and fuller. It blends well with my mains. So, in this case, I'm going to stick with what I am hearing and not what I am seeing.



Did you do your original Velodyne setup at just one Velodyne mic position? Or did you test at several mic positions and adjust for the best "compromise" result.


It is very easy to get the Velodyne ruler flat at any one mic position. But usually if you shift the mic a couple of feet you will discover that you have significant peaks and dips still in there! It's just the physics of the situation. Room coupling of bass can vary significantly over distance shifts as small as a foot or two.


Meanwhile ARC forces you to do measurements at multiple locations and it automatically targets a good "compromise" result. The upshot is that if you look at the Velodyne response again, it is unlikely to be ruler flat at any mic position, but should be reasonably good (say +/- 3 dB or 5 dB) at all locations.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13572315
> 
> 
> I re-EQ'ed the DD15, but this time did it differntly than the original EQ. When I did it originally I followed Velo's instructions which has you basically EQ the combination of sub and front mains working in parallel (makes sense). But ARC listens to each speaker separately so when it swept the sub alone it heard only the sub part of the original Velo combination EQ, i.e. only what the sub needed to contribute to make up for the shortcomings of the mains. Then ARC set the sub target (I'm guessing here) based on what it had measured as the capability of the sub during the sweep. So this time I re-EQ-ed the DD15 using only the sub (used the sub input on 6 channel and turned off the mains). Tweaked until I had a nice flat response from 20 to 100Hz, then saved that as the custom EQ in the DD15. Then ran ARC again. This time ARC saw a sub that was within +/-1 db from 20-100Hz and set a much more aggressive target (and had no problem hitting the target).



Another effect that needs to be explored here is that since ARC measures each speaker separately, it has no way (that I can see) of determining whether there is mismatched Phase (or Polarity) between the Sub and, in particular the front Main speakers -- potentially resulting in Phase cancellation and screwing up bass response near the cross over when both speakers are playing nearly identical content at the same time.


It is probably wise to adjust Polarity and Phase for best results (perhaps using the subwoofer's internal controls) with ARC turned off (Setup / Source Setup / Room EQ for your test source), and then do ARC measurements with them set that way. As it turns out, in my room normal Polarity and zero Phase in both the Velodyne and in the Anthem gave me the best results, so there's no problem that ARC might be using these as default values.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13572513
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> Subs work by "pressurizing" the air volume of the listening room. You may just not have enough sub for the volume of air in your listening space. Or you may simply need to reposition the sub (perhaps only a few inches) to better couple with the room
> 
> 
> Velodyne has a calculator on their web site that offers suggestions for how much subwoofer you need to handle rooms of various volumes. You may need to add a second sub for example.
> 
> 
> If you get enough bass volume from too small a sub you may be driving the sub to distortion as well.
> 
> 
> Check out the subwoofer forum here and see if you can extract some useful technical advice from the mass of fanboy-speak in there.
> 
> 
> One trick for sub positioning is to temporarily move the sub to your LISTENING position, and then doing SPL (or Velodyne's SMS-1 test sweep) measurements at various possible sub placement locations. The coupling of the sub to the room works both ways, so the best measurement position when the sub is in your listening spot will also be the best sub placement position when you are seated in your listening spot.
> 
> 
> You do still have the rented forklift you used to position that 18" beast in the first place don't you?
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. I did run the Velodyne calculations when we first moved into the house last year. I believe it said dual 15", perhaps dual 18" was recommended. I decided to run with the single 18" and see what it sounded like. I've actually been quite pleased, in some cases, there is too much bass. I'm hoping the ARC-1 helps to smooth that out. I hadn't considered the distortion effect. Will pay closer attention. This is the post where I show my front left and subwoofer results.  http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post13553384 


Sure, I'd love to add a 2nd 18" HGS (or dual DD18's!) but I'm pretty well at my limit as far as WAF goes with reguards to speakers.










But really, my question was about the other speakers in the setup. I have a noticable rolloff in the ARC graphs over 5khz in all channels. I don't know if there is anything I can do about that.


I also just noticed that everything was setup to a much lower level than the graphs you posted. My graphs seem to centered around the 65dbi level, whereas your's seem to be around the 75dbi level. Is that a function of the room size as well, or is there something I should look at in the advanced settings of the ARC-1 to change?


As far as the forklift.







The room is carpetted and I have been pretty successful in just pushing the beat around! hehe


----------



## bballer

Does anyone know which of the two power input plugs on the Anthem Statement P5 that powers the the left and right front speakers? I know one powers the left and right front and the other controls center, left and right rear.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13572947
> 
> 
> I wonder why some of us are seeing upper frequency targets that roll off for some of the Main speakers, and others (like me) are seeing the target as flat all the way out to the highest frequency?
> 
> --Bob



Exactly my question!


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13572431
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much I can do, may just have to live with it.



Move?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim,

The dip near 60 Hz in your measured sub response looks like a classic room "null". Repositioning the sub a few inches might significantly reduce that and allow ARC to more closely match the bass target at the frequencies below that.


It looks like ARC is "cutting" bass above and below that dip to eliminate the dip, and that leaves it short of bass power below 50 Hz.


On the other hand you are only a couple dB shy of the bass target there, so it might not be worth the effort to futz with it further. Typically the ear won't hear bass differences within +/- 3 dB.


Your rolloff at 5KHz doesn't seem out of line. You might want to try what I just did and up the Target top frequency for ARC from 5KHz to 10KHz, then recalculate (no need to remeasure). If the calculation still looks like a good match to the target at the lower frequencies, then this might be a way to extend your match to the target a little further above 5KHz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim,

On your issue of the ARC Target levels being low: Check the Speaker Calibration settings ARC is uploading and see if any of them are pegged at + or - 10dB (the limit of the adjustment). ARC may have had to reduce the target to deal with the range of differences between the speakers. You might need to boost or reduce your sub's internal volume control for example to get it closer to the mains before the D2's trim controls come into play.


Also, I'm not sure how the ARC "Room Gain" value comes into play in determining the Target level. In my Targets, Room Gain was showing at a little over 3 with the "force" box checked.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13573431
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> On your issue of the ARC Target levels being low: Check the Speaker Calibration settings ARC is uploading and see if any of them are pegged at + or - 10dB (the limit of the adjustment). ARC may have had to reduce the target to deal with the range of differences between the speakers. You might need to boost or reduce your sub's internal volume control for example to get it closer to the mains before the D2's trim controls come into play.
> 
> 
> Also, I'm not sure how the ARC "Room Gain" value comes into play in determining the Target level. In my Targets, Room Gain was showing at a little over 3 with the "force" box checked.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks, Bob. I'll look at the target values, calibrations, trim, etc and see what I can see. The sub is set pretty low, about 1/4 the volume level. So I can easily increase that if that is the limiting factor.


I also have some wiggle room with the position of the sub, so I'll try to move it a few inches to see what that does. I'm also going to reposition the front right speaker to see if I can get rid of the dip in it's response.


After I reposition everything, I'll run the ARC tests again and see what I can come up with. Thanks for the suggestions!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Move?



LOL. Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13572315
> 
> 
> I re-EQ'ed the DD15, but this time did it differntly than the original EQ. When I did it originally I followed Velo's instructions which has you basically EQ the combination of sub and front mains working in parallel (makes sense). But ARC listens to each speaker separately so when it swept the sub alone it heard only the sub part of the original Velo combination EQ, i.e. only what the sub needed to contribute to make up for the shortcomings of the mains. Then ARC set the sub target (I'm guessing here) based on what it had measured as the capability of the sub during the sweep. So this time I re-EQ-ed the DD15 using only the sub (used the sub input on 6 channel and turned off the mains). Tweaked until I had a nice flat response from 20 to 100Hz, then saved that as the custom EQ in the DD15. Then ran ARC again. This time ARC saw a sub that was within +/-1 db from 20-100Hz and set a much more aggressive target (and had no problem hitting the target).
> 
> 
> Haven't listened to it yet- going to do that now.



Spent the last couple hours listening to movies and music from multiple sources. The bass with the re-EQ'ed DD15 is *much* better. I had one DTS/DVD where the bass was way over the top, but everything else was fine, including an SACD that I've heard in a very high end stereo-only setup at my dealer so I know what it should/could sound like. I'm going to live with it as is for a while.


Two ARC enhancements I'd like to see:

1) an "after" measurement, as AnthemAVM and others have suggested, even if it was at only one mic position at a time

2) time domain analysis/correction to set sub polarity/phase, plus the other benefits that Audyssey claims.


From the Audyssey web site:
_Time and Frequency correction:

The time domain is where many of the problems reside. Parametric and graphic equalizers can only correct for the frequency response and do so in a very coarse manner because they have limited resolution (bands).

Further, whether they have fixed or adjustable bands it does not matter because bands cause phase problems that most people hear as "ringing" or "smearing." This is why, after thirty plus years of trying this method most people don't like the results and turn it off.

How does MultEQ address time and frequency problems?

MultEQ filters start in the time domain. They are not just a few parametric bands. Instead they use several hundred points to represent the room response in both the frequency and time domains. The trick is to use enough filter points to get the needed resolution, but not so many that it overwhelms the processor inside the audio component. So, we came up with a way to reduce the number of points without sacrificing accuracy and a way to provide more filter power at lower frequencies where it is needed the most. MultEQ can correct 8 channels by using only a fraction of a single DSP chip. This gives you the best of both worlds: time and frequency correction. Result--room correction that works for the first time ever.


What about calibrating my system?

In addition to all of our very complex EQ work, we also do the simple things really well. During step 1 above, MultEQ checks the absolute polarity of your system and tells you if any speakers are out of polarity (the + - wiring problem), measures the acoustical distance (within a 1/4 inch) to each speaker and sets the proper level trims for all channels including the subwoofer. Finally, it finds the optimum crossover frequency between each satellite channel and the subwoofer(s) and provides that information to the bass management system._


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13573179
> 
> 
> Did you do your original Velodyne setup at just one Velodyne mic position? Or did you test at several mic positions and adjust for the best "compromise" result.
> 
> 
> It is very easy to get the Velodyne ruler flat at any one mic position. But usually if you shift the mic a couple of feet you will discover that you have significant peaks and dips still in there! It's just the physics of the situation. Room coupling of bass can vary significantly over distance shifts as small as a foot or two.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile ARC forces you to do measurements at multiple locations and it automatically targets a good "compromise" result. The upshot is that if you look at the Velodyne response again, it is unlikely to be ruler flat at any mic position, but should be reasonably good (say +/- 3 dB or 5 dB) at all locations.
> 
> --Bob



Hmmmm, I wonder who will be first to just run all 5 test sweeps with the mic in the main position 1. IE. Run all 5 position sweeps without actually moving the mic. I am sure this must have crossed Bob's devious little mind by now










Cheers,


Richard


PS. DO all of you have Velodyne 18"ers lol


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13573905
> 
> 
> DO all of you have Velodyne 18"ers lol



Whoever said "size doesn't matter" has never cuddled up with a nice big 18"er.










Seriously, though. I've had my HGS18 for several years... 4 I think. I've been extremely pleased with it. With 4 kids in the house, the cabinet has seen some wear and tear.








But, it sounds great and moves a lot of air! I'd never go back to a smaller sub now. I've often thought about trying to move up to the DD18, but I just can't imagine I'd see a gain worth the huge price I'd have to pay.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13573179
> 
> 
> Did you do your original Velodyne setup at just one Velodyne mic position? Or did you test at several mic positions and adjust for the best "compromise" result.
> 
> 
> It is very easy to get the Velodyne ruler flat at any one mic position. But usually if you shift the mic a couple of feet you will discover that you have significant peaks and dips still in there! It's just the physics of the situation. Room coupling of bass can vary significantly over distance shifts as small as a foot or two.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile ARC forces you to do measurements at multiple locations and it automatically targets a good "compromise" result. The upshot is that if you look at the Velodyne response again, it is unlikely to be ruler flat at any mic position, but should be reasonably good (say +/- 3 dB or 5 dB) at all locations.
> 
> --Bob



Good point Bob. I only did the measurement, for the sub, at the main seating position. I didn't move it around like the ARC wants us to do which is better. Anyway, like I said, it definitely sounds better and tighter. So, do you think turning off the Velo's EQ, Preset 6, gave you a better outcome when using the ARC? I was thinking about taking measurements for each preset.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13573905
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS. DO all of you have Velodyne 18"ers lol



SVS is the only thing in this house.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13573905
> 
> 
> Hmmmm, I wonder who will be first to just run all 5 test sweeps with the mic in the main position 1. IE. Run all 5 position sweeps without actually moving the mic. I am sure this must have crossed Bob's devious little mind by now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> PS. DO all of you have Velodyne 18"ers lol



I'm a proud owner of one.


----------



## drmabuse

These are "my ARC graphs" after MANY measurements (easily 30+).

Comments welcome!

(It's like sharing pictures of the kids!)









/\\/\\


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13570443
> 
> 
> Chantheman,
> 
> 
> Sounds like undervoltage maybe ? I know I have problems in my area for sure because they are fixing the Transformers this spring
> 
> 
> Also the fact that you have a dedicated 20 amp line (like me) doesn't correct the problem if the juice coming to the house is either low current which you can have with correct voltage or low voltage.
> 
> 
> They do have things like products by furman which keep the voltage regulated at a steady flow. I would call them if I were you, but first I would check my power when that occurs to see if that is the case.
> 
> 
> My problem is more complex because I have low voltage problems and I am running a 100 unit on a step down transformer. Theoretically it should not make a difference but it seems the D2 is hyper sensitive.



I don't think it is an undervoltage problem. I have checked the voltages during different parts of the day and it is always 119 or 120. I have not used a datalogger yet, but may do that some day. The problem also occurs only at startup of the D2 (with nothing else triggering on or turning on), so I think it is more a firmware issue. When it shuts off, the Anthem does say "Powering Off", so it seems the D2 is stil in control. I also think it may be an error of some type because when it happens, the next time I turn it on, it does not always remember the last source.


Thanks for the help.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13573378
> 
> 
> Your rolloff at 5KHz doesn't seem out of line. You might want to try what I just did and up the Target top frequency for ARC from 5KHz to 10KHz, then recalculate (no need to remeasure). If the calculation still looks like a good match to the target at the lower frequencies, then this might be a way to extend your match to the target a little further above 5KHz.
> 
> --Bob



OK, Bob. I've played with the ARC software. (Haven't done any more measurements and haven't uploaded anything else to actually listen). Based on what I'm seeing, I can comfortably adjust the top frequency from 5kHz to 8kHz with nice (visual) results. When I adjusted to 10kHz, the waveforms got pretty wacky.


I'm not sure what the room gain does. Wish the software was better documented.







Mine was set to 3.9... with the forced being checked.


As far as being at the limits of a specific speaker gain/trim... where do I check that exactly? In the D2 setup menus? I don't see it anywhere in the ARC software.


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13573378
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> The dip near 60 Hz in your measured sub response looks like a classic room "null". Repositioning the sub a few inches might significantly reduce that and allow ARC to more closely match the bass target at the frequencies below that.
> 
> 
> It looks like ARC is "cutting" bass above and below that dip to eliminate the dip, and that leaves it short of bass power below 50 Hz.
> 
> 
> On the other hand you are only a couple dB shy of the bass target there, so it might not be worth the effort to futz with it further. Typically the ear won't hear bass differences within +/- 3 dB.
> 
> 
> Your rolloff at 5KHz doesn't seem out of line. You might want to try what I just did and up the Target top frequency for ARC from 5KHz to 10KHz, then recalculate (no need to remeasure). If the calculation still looks like a good match to the target at the lower frequencies, then this might be a way to extend your match to the target a little further above 5KHz.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Are you implying that there is a tradeoff by extending the frequency higher than 5kHz in the lower range of the frequencies? I think I'm following how to use the ARC-1 software in the Advanced mode. I wish there was a more detailed manual for adjusting the parameters in the software.


Buddy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/13574622
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Are you implying that there is a tradeoff by extending the frequency higher than 5kHz in the lower range of the frequencies? I think I'm following how to use the ARC-1 software in the Advanced mode. I wish there was a more detailed manual for adjusting the parameters in the software.
> 
> 
> Buddy



I think it is pretty safe to assume that ARC has only so much processing power and that the main reason for limiting the upper frequency of the EQ processing is to let it concentrate on the bass and mid-range where most of the problems are.


However, if your bass and mid-range are fairly tame already, then I think you can safely up the upper frequency and let ARC play around up there as well.


When you redo the calculation after raising the upper frequency, simply eyeball the entire frequency range of the graphs to see if the calculated results stray too far from the target curves due to ARC diverting some of its processing resources to the higher frequencies. If the calculated curves start showing problems (as apparently Tim found when he set it above 8 KHz) just dial it back down. It is more important to get the bass and mid-range correct.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

CAUTION!


I've now seen this a couple of times: It is apparently possible for ARC to believe it has completed its upload correctly when in fact not all the settings have made it into the D2!


Of course the only settings you can see are in the Speaker Configuration and Speaker Calibration Setup menus. The problem I have seen has been with the last couple items in each of those -- Sub Crossover values for Movie and Music configuration don't match what ARC shows in its Targets window on the PC, or volume level for Movie or Music configuration Subwoofer is obviously wrong (usually 0 dB).


Upon doing a re-upload of the same ARC results file, the settings are correct.


I don't know what the ARC upload process is doing to verify its uploads but apparently some errors don't get caught.


So if you are getting wacky results when listening, double check those and consider doing a re-upload of the ARC results you already have (no need to re-measure or re-calculate). Just go into ARC Advance mode, Open the saved results file and Upload.


Also note that if you do measurements in Advanced, ARC will save a results file after the measurements. When you then do the Calculation on those measurements you need to Save to that file again or they won't be in there the next time you open that file.

--Bob


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13574729
> 
> 
> I think it is pretty safe to assume that ARC has only so much processing power and that the main reason for limiting the upper frequency of the EQ processing is to let it concentrate on the bass and mid-range where most of the problems are.
> 
> 
> However, if your bass and mid-range are fairly tame already, then I think you can safely up the upper frequency and let ARC play around up there as well.
> 
> 
> When you redo the calculation after raising the upper frequency, simply eyeball the entire frequency range of the graphs to see if the calculated results stray too far from the target curves due to ARC diverting some of its processing resources to the higher frequencies. If the calculated curves start showing problems (as apparently Tim found when he set it above 8 KHz) just dial it back down. It is more important to get the bass and mid-range correct.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I raised the upper frequency to 20000 and saw some significant differences in the lower frequencies (80-120 Hz), so I see what you mean. Also, I've looked at my setup and the cinema and music are set to be the same, but when I view the curves for the two types, they vary greatly in the higher frequencies. Does your system show the same behavior? Do you understand why this is showing differences?


Buddy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/13574871
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I raised the upper frequency to 20000 and saw some significant differences in the lower frequencies (80-120 Hz), so I see what you mean. Also, I've looked at my setup and the cinema and music are set to be the same, but when I view the curves for the two types, they vary greatly in the higher frequencies. Does your system show the same behavior? Do you understand why this is showing differences?
> 
> 
> Buddy



I haven't played with separate calculations for Movie and Music yet, but it could make sense for them to have different targets in mind for the two of them. Can you post a couple of pictures showing the differences?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

CAUTION!


Doing measurements at varying mic heights may not be a good idea.


In the ARC write up, Anthem points out that the mic height is critical, and that, in particular, if you are hearing "bright" results (overly stressed treble) you should look to your mic heights.


My recent tests have been with 3 measurements at seated ear height on the sofa plus 3 measurements at standing ear height about 3 feet back of the sofa.


I came to the conclusion that the treble was wrong in these results. I hope that's not just due to the ARC upload not having worked properly!


In any event I just completed a redo of this stuff, this time with 5 measurements, ALL at seated ear height, and evenly spaced across the sofa. Once again, I raised the upper frequency EQ Target from 5KHz to 10KHz before doing the Calculation. And again, these are done with the bass EQ inside my Velodyne sub DISABLED.


Early results are that the treble sounds MUCH better! The Calculation came up with a DRAMATICALLY different result for my Center speaker. Among other things, its Cross Over was raised to 140Hz. The other speaker results are similar to what I had before. Here are the charts:




















--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13574611
> 
> 
> As far as being at the limits of a specific speaker gain/trim... where do I check that exactly? In the D2 setup menus? I don't see it anywhere in the ARC software.



Tim, what I had in mind was for you to check Setup / Speaker Calibration after uploading your ARC results to see if the volume trims for any of the speakers is pegged at or close to the limits of +/- 10 dB available in that menu.


For example if the Subwoofer trim is at +10dB (the max) and ARC determined it couldn't hit 73dB (or thereabouts) despite that, then ARC might have lowered the Main speaker volumes to something all the speakers could achieve -- such as around 65 dB. If you then raise the Sub's internal volume, ARC would see that on the next measurement and perhaps reset all the targets higher.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13574505
> 
> 
> These are "my ARC graphs" after MANY measurements (easily 30+).
> 
> Comments welcome!
> 
> (It's like sharing pictures of the kids!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /\\/\\



Your kids look pretty good!


Did you raise the upper frequency ARC Target from its default 5KHz or did you get the good response from 5 to 10KHz naturally?


It's also interesting that your Target dB levels are, I think the highest we've seen here -- up around 77 dB.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13575067
> 
> 
> Tim, what I had in mind was for you to check Setup / Speaker Calibration after uploading your ARC results to see if the volume trims for any of the speakers is pegged at or close to the limits of +/- 10 dB available in that menu.
> 
> 
> For example if the Subwoofer trim is at +10dB (the max) and ARC determined it couldn't hit 73dB (or thereabouts) despite that, then ARC might have lowered the Main speaker volumes to something all the speakers could achieve -- such as around 65 dB. If you then raise the Sub's internal volume, ARC would see that on the next measurement and perhaps reset all the targets higher.
> 
> --Bob



OK. Gotcha. Well, now I'm VERY confused.


The subwoofer speaking levels were set to -9.0db! All other speakers were set to -1.5db to +1.0db.


So, I just lowered the main subwoofer amplifier setting and will rerun the ARC tests to see what happens. I've also moved the sub about 1" from the wall and about 3" closer to the front of the room. I also change the x-over settings on the sub itself. The low pass is now set to the lowest setting, 40hz, high pass is set to 100hz.


----------



## Tim Winders

Oh wait. Perhaps the power on volume levels are coming into play here? I have mine set at the default, -35. Do you think that is making any difference?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim, I'm pretty sure ARC does it's own volume settings before running the test tones, so I doubt that this is the issue.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13575198
> 
> 
> Tim, I'm pretty sure ARC does it's own volume settings before running the test tones, so I doubt that this is the issue.
> 
> --Bob



OK. I'll run everything again later tonight and post back. I won't be able to do it for several hours. Too many kids still awake.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13575108
> 
> 
> Your kids look pretty good!
> 
> 
> Did you raise the upper frequency ARC Target from its default 5KHz or did you get the good response from 5 to 10KHz naturally?
> 
> 
> It's also interesting that your Target dB levels are, I think the highest we've seen here -- up around 77 dB.
> 
> --Bob



Logic would seem to indicate that you are on the mark with your comments to Tim that it is the SUBs external volume control that to a large extent may decide what dB level the target normalizes to.


A simple test would be to lower your subs level by a third, measure and calculate, the raise it by a third (raise and lower from the current ideal for a good swing).


If your target goes up when your sub is up and visa verse we have our answer.


Cheers,


Richard


Edit: The reason this makes sense to me is that the external volume control on the SUB is the only volume leveling mechanism for any speaker that the D2 cannot baseline by setting its internal speaker settings. So while it can adapt to it to a certain degree (Target level) it is more limited to adapting the SUB to the rest. And like you said, since the lower frequencies tend to need the most work it again makes sense to work of the biggest input to that. In my world anyway that makes sense.


----------



## bluemark81

Anyone know of any blue-ray players that will internally decode DTS-Master Audio and Dolby True HD so that I can use with my AVM-50?


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13575250
> 
> 
> Anyone know of any blue-ray players that will internally decode DTS-Master Audio and Dolby True HD so that I can use with my AVM-50?



Check out this link:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t=audio+matrix 


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## bluemark81

Thanks:


I'm not quite sure I know what I need the player to do to work with the AVM-50 though. I know I need the player to decode the signals, but is it PCM or bitstream that must sent to the Anthem to get the non-lossy audio?


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13575401
> 
> 
> Thanks:
> 
> 
> I'm not quite sure I know what I need the player to do to work with the AVM-50 though. I know I need the player to decode the signals, but is it PCM or bitstream that must sent to the Anthem to get the non-lossy audio?



If your connecting via HDMI then it's PCM your looking for. Bitstream (Coax/Optical) would only get you stepped down versions of TrueHD and/or DTS MA.


Probably the most popular are:


PS3 (It does TrueHD, but not yet DTS MA, but that is pretty much assured in a FW update at some point this year. Probably the best value and most future proof player. This is what I have so I am completely unbiased.










If you want a stand alone and you want it tomorrow then I would probably go with the Panasonic BD30.


If you can wait a little while I would get the Panasonic BD50 which will also be the first stand alone BD 2.0 (BD Live) Player, but I am not sure when it will be out. Rumor was this month in the us, but when I asked my dealer here in Canada he said that the latest he heard was the end of summer (and he said it should be the same for the US, but who knows what he knows or doesn't about that).


Personally I will stick with the PS3 until Oppo comes to market with one next year as the PS3 would most likely have the greatest value retention for resale in any case. That and it works great with a few integration issues that can be overcome with add-ons like the IR2BT adapter.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ninja12

Has anyone tried running ARC with Preset 6? I think Bob said he did. I was wondering if you received better ARC results by running it with Preset 6 which is without the Velodyne's EQ being on. Also, are most of you running the ARC in Standard Mode or Advanced Mode?


----------



## vivekg

Thanks for the help, here are a few updates:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13567045
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what's going on with your Mac Mini. Typically the problem with computer graphics cards is that the card changes its setup during its boot sequence and that confuses the HDMI handshake due to the information exchange having to happen twice. Gefen's "DVI Detective" product has proven helpful in many such cases. You place it between your computer and the Anthem and it tidies up that info exchange.



I've played with this a little bit and I may live with it for now. I have some ideas on how to fix this, it only seems to be a problem when rapidly scanning through things.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13567045
> 
> 
> For the Harmony remote, make sure you have updated the firmware in the remote itself (Downloads button in their computer software application).
> 
> 
> You will need to reload your Harmony setup after that.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't do the trick, contact Harmony tech support (1-866-291-1505). They may need to set some stuff in your configuration that only they can set at their end. But if you can't even get the Anthem's power on and power off to function then it is probably more basic than that. The "Level 2" support guys can make any special changes needed in your remote's configuration data. For example, I had to get them to provide a special code that allowed the "7" key to react differently when held down so as to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. That change may already be in their D2 database by now.



Unfortunately, even after an update of the remote it doesn't seem to work. So I'm contacting Logitech to see if there is a difference between the remote I have and the one that others have posted about.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13567045
> 
> 
> On the FIOS stuff, if what you are experiencing is noise around the edges of the image (perhaps only on one side) and if that varies depending on which channel you are watching, then it is just that some channels aren't too careful about getting the edges right in what they send out, because most people have their TV's set to Overscan and so the edges are hidden beyond the edge of the screen. Anthem users should have Overscan turned off in the TV (if possible) so that you see the full image with 1:1 pixel mapping to the native resolution of the display. But that can make such noise in the edges of the broadcast content visible.
> 
> 
> If it bothers you, you can turn Video Source Adjust / Crop Input / Edges On and select a number of pixels like "6". This crops a strip around all 4 sides of the incoming video. The Anthem scaler then adjusts that to your defined Video Output shape according to what you've asked it to do (e.g., Anamorphic or Letter/Pillar Box). You can set up one of the Overlayed inputs (e.g. TV2), to be just like your normal FIOS input, and then turn Edges On in its Video Source Adjust menu. Then you can switch back and forth between that one and your normal FIOS TV input when you need to clean up the edges.
> 
> 
> The edge noise I'm talking about should be no more than 2-3 pixels wide on any given edge. It might be on one edge or a couple. If you are seeing something worse than that, then you have some other problem.
> 
> --Bob



That worked great. I adjusted the video input and removed the edges for the FIOS input.


Thanks,

Vivek


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13575479
> 
> 
> If your connecting via HDMI then it's PCM your looking for. Bitstream (Coax/Optical) would only get you stepped down versions of TrueHD and/or DTS MA.
> 
> 
> Probably the most popular are:
> 
> 
> PS3 (It does TrueHD, but not yet DTS MA, but that is pretty much assured in a FW update at some point this year. Probably the best value and most future proof player. This is what I have so I am completely unbiased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want a stand alone and you want it tomorrow then I would probably go with the Panasonic BD30.
> 
> 
> If you can wait a little while I would get the Panasonic BD50 which will also be the first stand alone BD 2.0 (BD Live) Player, but I am not sure when it will be out. Rumor was this month in the us, but when I asked my dealer here in Canada he said that the latest he heard was the end of summer (and he said it should be the same for the US, but who knows what he knows or doesn't about that).
> 
> 
> Personally I will stick with the PS3 until Oppo comes to market with one next year as the PS3 would most likely have the greatest value retention for resale in any case. That and it works great with a few integration issues that can be overcome with add-ons like the IR2BT adapter.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Then I am guessing the chart showing that the Sony BDP-S550 is capable of DTS-MA is incorrect? From this chart:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t=audio+matrix 


....it appears as though it is the most complete player.


So that I am clear, I want a player that can decode the codecs internally and output them by PCM over HDMI?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13575503
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried running ARC with Preset 6? I think Bob said he did. I was wondering if you received better ARC results by running it with Preset 6 which is without the Velodyne's EQ being on. Also, are most of you running the ARC in Standard Mode or Advanced Mode?



I'm currently using it in Preset 6 (Velodyne's internal EQ disabled) and find it give me superior ARC results than running with the EQ on. I posted comparison curves a page or so back.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13575108
> 
> 
> Your kids look pretty good!
> 
> 
> Did you raise the upper frequency ARC Target from its default 5KHz or did you get the good response from 5 to 10KHz naturally?
> 
> 
> It's also interesting that your Target dB levels are, I think the highest we've seen here -- up around 77 dB.
> 
> --Bob



I am so proud!
























I did not raise the upper frequency. I just let the ARC do it's thing.


/\\/\\


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13575595
> 
> 
> Then I am guessing the chart showing that the Sony BDP-S550 is capable of DTS-MA is incorrect? From this chart:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t=audio+matrix
> 
> 
> ....it appears as though it is the most complete player.
> 
> 
> So that I am clear, I want a player that can decode the codecs internally and output them by PCM over HDMI?



That chart used to be a bit clearer. The upper box is existing players on the market. The next box (including the Sony 550) is/are future to be released players. The Sony is expected for Q3/4.


Again, if you can wait, that will probably be a solid choice. If you don't need the 7.1 Analogue outs, I would still go with the rumored sooner to be released BD50 from Panasonic as the BD10 & BD30 are probably the most popular Stand alone's for good reason. Especially since they fixed their Bass issue (At least I heard that was fixed a little while back) so I assume the BD50 will be a great player.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. When you say "So that I am clear, I want a player that can decode the codecs internally and output them by PCM over HDMI?" are you asking or telling? I would say that if your receiver accepts PCM over HDMI then that is the way you want to go. Even if hte BD player you choose outputs the raw TrueHD / DTS MA and the receiver can decodes those there has been nothing stated that that is any advantage over just having the BD player do the processing and sending the PCM.


For me the whole Decoding in the Receivers is marketing just like the need for HDMI 1.3 over 1.1 for the most part (At least 2 years ago when it started).


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13572790
> 
> 
> Below are my results after running the ARC-1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also re-ran my sub eq on my Velodyne DD18. I noticed that the frequency curves looks worse after running ARC-1. I pretty much had a pretty flat response across my frequencies. Ok, maybe with 1 to 2 db; but, none the less, it was good. After the ARC-1, I am seeing dips in places that were flat. However, the sub does sound better after running the ARC-1. It sounds tighter and fuller. It blends well with my mains. So, in this case, I'm going to stick with what I am hearing and not what I am seeing.



Why is it that your target line in your charts looks different than every other one i've seen posted so far?


John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13576149
> 
> 
> That chart used to be a bit clearer. The upper box is existing players on the market. The next box (including the Sony 550) is/are future to be released players. The Sony is expected for Q3/4.
> 
> 
> Again, if you can wait, that will probably be a solid choice. If you don't need the 7.1 Analogue outs, I would still go with the rumored sooner to be released BD50 from Panasonic as the BD10 & BD30 are probably the most popular Stand alone's for good reason. Especially since they fixed their Bass issue (At least I heard that was fixed a little while back) so I assume the BD50 will be a great player.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> PS. When you say "So that I am clear, I want a player that can decode the codecs internally and output them by PCM over HDMI?" are you asking or telling? I would say that if your receiver accepts PCM over HDMI then that is the way you want to go. Even if hte BD player you choose outputs the raw TrueHD / DTS MA and the receiver can decodes those there has been nothing stated that that is any advantage over just having the BD player do the processing and sending the PCM.
> 
> 
> For me the whole Decoding in the Receivers is marketing just like the need for HDMI 1.3 over 1.1 for the most part (At least 2 years ago when it started).



Richard:


I am running the AVM-50, which does not internally decode MA or DTHD. I want to experience these audio codecs so I want to make sure I purchase a player that can give me the latest audio with the Anthem AVM-50. I can wait if need be, but want to make sure I get what is needed.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13576311
> 
> 
> Richard:
> 
> 
> I am running the AVM-50, which does not internally decode MA or DTHD. I want to experience these audio codecs so I want to make sure I purchase a player that can give me the latest audio with the Anthem AVM-50. I can wait if need be, but want to make sure I get what is needed.



Well there doesn't apear to be a player currently on the market that internally decodes DTS MA and sends it VIA PCM to anything lol.


The PS3 will (Edit: It will eventually, but not currently) so thats a pretty safe starting point and you can get that now. Otherwise the Pani BD50 will probably be the first stand alone player to do it.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13576590
> 
> 
> Well there doesn't apear to be a player currently on the market that internally decodes DTS MA and sends it VIA PCM to anything lol.
> 
> 
> The PS3 will (Edit: It will eventually, but not currently) so thats a pretty safe starting point and you can get that now. Otherwise the Pani BD50 will probably be the first stand alone player to do it.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



I thought the Denon 3800 could do this, and it's currently available (but it's not cheap)


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13576847
> 
> 
> I thought the Denon 3800 could do this, and it's currently available (but it's not cheap)



Oops, sorry your right I missed that one when I checked the table. I guess in my world that one isn't really considered and I subconciously skipped it hahaa.


Reality is for a fraction of the price you can get the PS3 now or wait a bit and get the Pani BD50.


Heck maybe the Denon is the $hts for all I know I am not very familiar with it, but sure seems like a lot for what I would think wouldn't be a huge uptake in performance. For BD playback for example the PS3 is about as highly rated as any.


Don't get me wrong, there were some good reasons NOT to get the PS3, but in the end, the price/value and future proofness made it my choice until a get a fully featured stand alone player for a reasonable price (Reasonable being relative by person and device as I own a D2, but baulk at the Denon prices for a BD player.


In any case, I would read the owner forums here for any unit you are thinking of getting to see what folks think.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13576311
> 
> 
> Richard:
> 
> 
> I am running the AVM-50, which does not internally decode MA or DTHD. I want to experience these audio codecs so I want to make sure I purchase a player that can give me the latest audio with the Anthem AVM-50. I can wait if need be, but want to make sure I get what is needed.



Here is a link to a more detailed over view of Blu-Ray players and their capabilities.

http://www.idoblu.co.uk/page2%20Blu-ray%20Players.html 


The players you are looking for to work with your AVM-50 to give you the benefit of high end audio codecs are the one's highlighted in blue i.e. the players that decode internally.


To date your options are:


Here to day: Denon 3800BD (which I have)

Coming soon: Sony BDP-S550, Pioneer BDP-05FD, Panasonic DMP-BD50 and the Marantz BD8002.


This list is not meant to be comprehensive, but rather to show you how to read the chart so you can follow it as it is updated with product releases and new product announcements.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13576188
> 
> 
> Why is it that your target line in your charts looks different than every other one i've seen posted so far?
> 
> 
> John



How is it different?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13575743
> 
> 
> I'm currently using it in Preset 6 (Velodyne's internal EQ disabled) and find it give me superior ARC results than running with the EQ on. I posted comparison curves a page or so back.
> 
> --Bob



I'm going to try it with Preset 6 and see how mine turns out.


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13576906
> 
> 
> Oops, sorry your right I missed that one when I checked the table. I guess in my world that one isn't really considered and I subconciously skipped it hahaa.
> 
> 
> Reality is for a fraction of the price you can get the PS3 now or wait a bit and get the Pani BD50.
> 
> 
> Heck maybe the Denon is the $hts for all I know I am not very familiar with it, but sure seems like a lot for what I would think wouldn't be a huge uptake in performance. For BD playback for example the PS3 is about as highly rated as any.
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong, there were some good reasons NOT to get the PS3, but in the end, the price/value and future proofness made it my choice until a get a fully featured stand alone player for a reasonable price (Reasonable being relative by person and device as I own a D2, but baulk at the Denon prices for a BD player.
> 
> 
> In any case, I would read the owner forums here for any unit you are thinking of getting to see what folks think.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Yep, no argument that the PS3 is the best value. The fans on it make a lot of noise though.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13577254
> 
> 
> How is it different?



Look at 100Hz on your graph in relation to most others posted. It does not have the same extra bump before flattening out at aroud 400Hz.


Your target line on your fronts and rears also rolls off where most others are flat all the way to 20kHz. And your target line is flat for your surrounds.


I just assumed that everyone's target line would be the same.


Just wonderin?


John


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13578368
> 
> 
> Yep, no argument that the PS3 is the best value. The fans on it make a lot of noise though.



I'm starting to get fed up with my 80g unit.







I have it running folding any time we are not watching a movie and it's damn loud! It's not so bad watching a movie... much quieter. But, watching the TiVo with the PS3 folding has gotten quite annoying...


anyone build a sound box for it with a silent fan to exhaust the heat?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm still not happy with my ARC results.


I believe my bass problems are entirely due to cases where the cross-overs and speaker volume levels did not get properly uploaded by ARC. I'm not sure it is safe to alter them manually in the Setup menu when this happens. Now that I'm aware of the possibility, the first thing I check after an upload is that the crossovers and volume levels for Movie and Music all got set up correctly. If not, I redo the upload until it is right. And since I've done that, my bass has sounded fine with good transition into the low mid-range.


But the high-mid range and the treble are still giving me fits. It is not "bright" or "dull" but rather there is a hint of harshness or distortion in there that makes it tough to listen to. I don't know if it is processing noise or something simply not being transferred correctly during the upload.


The problem seems worst in louder passages, and is most notable in high midrange (female or child voices). I think the problem is worst in my center channel, but I also notice it in AL-Music where the Center speaker is turned off. And of course I wasn't experiencing any thing like this pre-ARC.


I did find that the higher frequencies were better when using the measurements I made all at ear height. So I'm sticking with those measurements for now.


Currently I'm using a 10KHz Calculation with those measurements (curves posted last night). Now I'm going to try comparison with a 20KHz Calculation and, if that still has the problem, then a 5KHz Calculation.


By the way, it appears that ARC is smart enough to allocate its resources to the speakers that need it most. When I pushed it up to 20KHz, it concentrated its new efforts above 10KHz on the main speakers other than the Left Front. The Left Front was closest to correct to begin with and only got tiny improvement above 10KHz. The other speakers all got pretty good improvement without the rest of frequency curves being impacted.

--Bob


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13578760
> 
> 
> Look at 100Hz on your graph in relation to most others posted. It does not have the same extra bump before flattening out at aroud 400Hz.
> 
> 
> Your target line on your fronts and rears also rolls off where most others are flat all the way to 20kHz. And your target line is flat for your surrounds.
> 
> 
> I just assumed that everyone's target line would be the same.
> 
> 
> Just wonderin?
> 
> 
> John



Arc first listens to what the speakers are capable of reproducing, then sets reasonable, attainable improvements as its target. So if your sub is only cabable of going down to 45hz Arc's target is not going to be 20hz because that would not be possible. Instead it will try to do a smooth roll-off at that 45hz. See Nick's post #12668


----------



## agrsiv95

For the life of me, I can't copy my graphs. I was wondering if there is any obvious reson for a 8-11db gain from 8k-12k in all off my speakers. I have taken 6 measurements all at seated ear height and cannot figure out why. Speakers are the complete rti series from Polk.


Jeremy


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13578368
> 
> 
> Yep, no argument that the PS3 is the best value. The fans on it make a lot of noise though.



i would be the first in line to trash any Sony product, but I have never heard any fan noise from my PS3 40gb.


I frankly do not understand why some have this issue. Mine is about 9 feet from me in a very open area in my custom made TV/Equipment stand and I have never heard a peep even with everything else off.


I can honestly only guess that some are buggy as some claim.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. One thing recently that I am not at all a fan of is that with the recent 2.2 update that brought the PS3 to BD Live capable, you are heavily encouraged to allow your BD's blanket Internet Access. In fact the only way to turn off the prompt to allow this is to disable internal access to the PS3 entirely.


Anyway that is a side bar and I started a separate thread on that in the BD players area.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

After running ARC, please save User/Installer settings to retain the level calibrations set by ARC. It sets levels such that the average level is the same with ARC vs without in case someone wants to compare eq on/off.


With advanced settings, you're on your own because everyone's system and room is different. If there's an ideal that's not what ARC detects, trial and error is needed.


Setting EQ range much higher than 5 kHz is not recommended - the mic becomes directional at upper frequencies therefore the measurement becomes less accurate, and at these frequencies moving one's head just a couple of inches changes response anyway.


Changing crossover settings in the setup menu has no effect on room eq "ON" inputs - settings must be changed in the program (in advanced mode), then re-calculated and uploaded to make a difference.


To clarify room gain, the bump is not what comes out of the processor's output jacks, it's the acoustic response after correction. Ideal response in an anechoic chamber (a straight line with a downward trend) is not the same as ideal response when listening to the same speaker at home. Note that the science of speaker evaluation and ARC were born in the same place - the acoustics lab at the National Research Council in Ottawa, Canada.


Adding an 'after' measurement is possible, but we decided against it fearing to many 'something is wrong' calls that would result from not having the mic positioned identically before vs after.


If you're running into problems make sure you're using the latest software for both processor and ARC. For the D1/D2 it's v1.31 (not v1.31a) and for ARC it's v1.1 - these are available on our web site and came with recently shipped add-on kits. v1.31 and v1.1 must be used together. The first D2s shipped with mic contained v1.30 and v1.0 - please update if you're having issues or upgradeitis, otherwise leave as is. The main difference between v1.0 and v1.1 is in sub measurement, and it was to accommodate a wider range of sub models - ARC v1.1 may indicate that the input level on your sub needs to be raised. There was also a fix for the rumbling noise first reported here.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/13580260
> 
> 
> After running ARC, please save User/Installer settings to retain the level calibrations set by ARC...



Nick!


Great to hear from you. As you can see, there's a LOT of ARC enthusiasm and reporting here at the moment. We'd love to have you become active in the discussions as your time permits. Thanks for the information you've provided. I understand if you, unlike most of the rest of us, have a job, family and like to sleep.


----------



## EAnderson

Does anyone here use power conditioners with their D2's or AVM-50's? I'm currently using 3 Richard Grey's 400s, a 1200s and a Shunyata Hydra model 6 with a Python hellix 20 amp power cable, I'm also using a 15 amp Python hellix power cable to my D2.


Is there any reason I should'nt be doing this?

Is all of this a waste of money?

I do hear positive benefits with this set-up, I did'nt run out and buy all this stuff for the D2, it was left over from my last system.

I ask because I've read or heard somewhere to simply just plug it into the wall without surge protection or power conditioning. I do like how it now sounds even without the ARC( I have it, just have'nt ran it yet). I want to do the right thing for the D2 as well as my ears.

Any advice?


Thanks, Eric


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My latest ARC results would not upload without incorrect values getting into the cross overs and speaker levels when using the Keyspan adapter on XP on Bootcamp on the Macbook. Multiple retries produced only one Verification error message, but all the uploads that had no complaint still produced at least one erroneous value in those Setup menu items.


This problem of incorrectly Verifying the ARC Upload has been reported to Anthem, and the software guys are looking at it. It does bring into question whether the parts of the ARC Upload you CAN'T see (Gains and Room Correction Parameters) are being properly Verified. So some of my audio issues may be due to those not correctly getting into the D2.


------------------------------


I then installed ARC 1.1 on my older Windows 2000 laptop which has a real serial connection. My understanding is that you can't actually do ARC measurements on a Windows 2000 computer due to differences in the way mic input is handled there compared to XP. However, you CAN apparently transfer a results file from an XP machine to a Windows 2000 machine and then use the ARC application on the Windows 2000 machine to Upload the results to the D2 (in Advanced mode).


In any event, that worked for me on the first try.


Based on what Nick just said, I'm going to switch to my latest measurements calculated at 5KHz and see how those sound.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just spoke with Nick and he's requesting everyone stick with V1.31 firmware right now so they have a good baseline on what's going on with all of us. However, for the few of us who may have ALREADY installed V1.31a from the test site he's saying it is OK to stick with that -- i.e., no need to revert back to v1.31.


The changes in V1.31a were the power up sequencing change they did to try to fix my Video Source Adjust settings not surviving a power cycle. So it's not really needed by anyone else, nor should it make any difference to other functions (with or without ARC).


Nick also says that the settings made in the Setup menu by an ARC upload are not SUPPOSED to alter what happens for any sources with Room EQ = ON set. The settings actually used by ARC itself are kept elsewhere.


The Setup menu changes are made simply to give the best match if, for whatever reason, you decide to turn Room EQ = OFF for some source. And making manual changes to these Setup menu items is not SUPPOSED to alter the audio as produced by ARC.


I'm not really sure what's going on here, however, because I *THINK* I've found that screwed up settings in those Setup menu items result in screwed up sound with ARC turned on -- e.g., subwoofer WAY out of balance if the Speaker Calibration level for the subwoofer isn't showing the right value in the Setup menu after an ARC upload.


It may simply be that when I see bad Setup menu items after an ARC upload that the "secret" settings actually used by ARC are *ALSO* uploaded incorrectly. In which case manually "fixing" the settings in the Setup menu wouldn't actually fix what ARC is using.


Stay tuned.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13580843
> 
> 
> I just spoke with Nick and he's requesting everyone stick with V1.31 firmware right now so they have a good baseline on what's going on with all of us.



Thanks for the updates, Bob.


Unfortunately, I haven't had the opportunity to run the ARC-1 collection again. Just too difficult with so many people in the house. I probably won't have another opportunity until tomorrow.


EDIT: 500 posts? Wow, I talk too much.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13580843
> 
> 
> I just spoke with Nick and he's requesting everyone stick with V1.31 firmware right now so they have a good baseline on what's going on with all of us. However, for the few of us who may have ALREADY installed V1.31a from the test site he's saying it is OK to stick with that -- i.e., no need to revert back to v1.31.
> 
> 
> The changes in V1.31a were the power up sequencing change they did to try to fix my Video Source Adjust settings not surviving a power cycle. So it's not really needed by anyone else, nor should it make any difference to other functions (with or without ARC).
> 
> 
> Nick also says that the settings made in the Setup menu by an ARC upload are not SUPPOSED to alter what happens for any sources with Room EQ = ON set. The settings actually used by ARC itself are kept elsewhere.
> 
> 
> The Setup menu changes are made simply to give the best match if, for whatever reason, you decide to turn Room EQ = OFF for some source. And making manual changes to these Setup menu items is not SUPPOSED to alter the audio as produced by ARC.
> 
> 
> I'm not really sure what's going on here, however, because I *THINK* I've found that screwed up settings in those Setup menu items result in screwed up sound with ARC turned on -- e.g., subwoofer WAY out of balance if the Speaker Calibration level for the subwoofer isn't showing the right value in the Setup menu after an ARC upload.
> 
> 
> It may simply be that when I see bad Setup menu items after an ARC upload that the "secret" settings actually used by ARC are *ALSO* uploaded incorrectly. In which case manually "fixing" the settings in the Setup menu wouldn't actually fix what ARC is using.
> 
> 
> Stay tuned.
> 
> --Bob



Sounds like what your seeing matches what Nick is saying.


IE. If as Nick says the "menu screen" settings are set the same as or close to the ARC settings then it makes sense that if your menu settings aren't loaded correctly that your ARC ones in the background are similarly incorrect which is why things sound off.


I haven't personally compared the two, but maybe I will a little later.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13580563
> 
> 
> Does anyone here use power conditioners with their D2's or AVM-50's? I'm currently using 3 Richard Grey's 400s, a 1200s and a Shunyata Hydra model 6 with a Python hellix 20 amp power cable, I'm also using a 15 amp Python hellix power cable to my D2.
> 
> 
> Is there any reason I should'nt be doing this?
> 
> Is all of this a waste of money?
> 
> I do hear positive benefits with this set-up, I did'nt run out and buy all this stuff for the D2, it was left over from my last system.
> 
> I ask because I've read or heard somewhere to simply just plug it into the wall without surge protection or power conditioning. I do like how it now sounds even without the ARC( I have it, just have'nt ran it yet). I want to do the right thing for the D2 as well as my ears.
> 
> Any advice?
> 
> 
> Thanks, Eric



I am actually wondering the same thing. I have terrible fluctuations in power during the summer months due to all the AC's kicking on. Right now I have my system hooked up to an APC H15. It has voltage regulation but no UPS. I was thinking of adding a UPS to some components, but did not want to hamper sound quality. I was also looking at Shunyata Hydra 8 to possibly clean up the fluctuating power voltage.


Any advice?


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13580563
> 
> 
> Does anyone here use power conditioners with their D2's or AVM-50's? I'm currently using 3 Richard Grey's 400s, a 1200s and a Shunyata Hydra model 6 with a Python hellix 20 amp power cable, I'm also using a 15 amp Python hellix power cable to my D2.
> 
> 
> Is there any reason I should'nt be doing this?
> 
> Is all of this a waste of money?
> 
> I do hear positive benefits with this set-up, I did'nt run out and buy all this stuff for the D2, it was left over from my last system.
> 
> I ask because I've read or heard somewhere to simply just plug it into the wall without surge protection or power conditioning. I do like how it now sounds even without the ARC( I have it, just have'nt ran it yet). I want to do the right thing for the D2 as well as my ears.
> 
> Any advice?
> 
> 
> Thanks, Eric



I have a Panamax M5100-EX. I am not convinced it does anything good or bad for my sound or video, but it adds 11 outlets, a bunch of pretty blue LEDs and surge protection.


Anthem says (or at least used to say - I can't find the statement in the 1.3x manual) do not use a line conditioner - see Q37 in their support FAQs:


Q37: Your instructions say not to use a line conditioner - how am I going to protect my equipment against surges then?


A: Though they do often get confused with one another, line conditioning and surge protection are not the same thing. You can protect against surges a few different ways, but two things have to be kept in mind: If the surge protector isn't connected to a good low-impedance ground, it's a bad start, and protecting the AC line but not the other connections from outside, such as cable, still leaves doors open where surges could sneak in.


Many different manufacturers make various devices that can be installed at the service entrance or inside the electrical panel, or plugged into the wall (two broad categories are MOV-based vs series-mode). Wall outlets with protection already inside them are also available. The best thing to use depends on which problem you're trying to fix. The nature of the wiring, your geographical location, and the size of the home are all factors.


----------



## ninja12

I reran my ARC again last night after everyone went to bed and the house was quiet. For some really strange reason, the ARC set my cross over for my rear speaker to 10Hz which is lower than what my sub can handle. It was late, and I had to get up at 3 in the morning so I decided to go to bed. However, I will be running ARC again to see if that happens again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13581958
> 
> 
> I reran my ARC again last night after everyone went to bed and the house was quiet. For some really strange reason, the ARC set my cross over for my rear speaker to 10Hz which is lower than what my sub can handle. It was late, and I had to get up at 3 in the morning so I decided to go to bed. However, I will be running ARC again to see if that happens again.



Does it say 10 Hz in the Targets panel of the ARC application? Or is it that the Targets value is correct, but it says 10 Hz in the Setup / Speaker Configuration menu after Uploading the ARC results?


If the latter, then you've been bitten by the same Upload Verification bug that I've seen. Try Uploading the same ARC results file again and see if all your Speaker Configuration and Speaker Calibration settings get set correctly this time.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13578760
> 
> 
> Look at 100Hz on your graph in relation to most others posted. It does not have the same extra bump before flattening out at aroud 400Hz.
> 
> 
> Your target line on your fronts and rears also rolls off where most others are flat all the way to 20kHz. And your target line is flat for your surrounds.
> 
> 
> I just assumed that everyone's target line would be the same.
> 
> 
> Just wonderin?
> 
> 
> John



The only thing that I can think of is that my Right Front Speaker is near French Doors that lead into the room off of my HT Room. It's also about 10 to 12 feet away from the steps that lead to my main level.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13582054
> 
> 
> Does it say 10 Hz in the Targets panel of the ARC application? Or is it that the Targets value is correct, but it says 10 Hz in the Setup / Speaker Configuration menu after Uploading the ARC results?
> 
> 
> If the latter, then you've been bitten by the same Upload Verification bug that I've seen. Try Uploading the same ARC results file again and see if all your Speaker Configuration and Speaker Calibration settings get set correctly this time.
> 
> --Bob



I didn't check the Targets panel so I don't know. I didn't notice the problem until I uploaded the results and then looked in the Speaker Configuration. It was a big red flag. I don't have any speakers that can play down to 10Hz. Unfortunately, I deleted the bad ARC result file and uploaded the ARC file that I initially did which had the cross over at 110Hz for my rears. I will definitely be on the look out for this to see if it happens again.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13582054
> 
> 
> Does it say 10 Hz in the Targets panel of the ARC application? Or is it that the Targets value is correct, but it says 10 Hz in the Setup / Speaker Configuration menu after Uploading the ARC results?
> 
> 
> If the latter, then you've been bitten by the same Upload Verification bug that I've seen. Try Uploading the same ARC results file again and see if all your Speaker Configuration and Speaker Calibration settings get set correctly this time.
> 
> --Bob



bob, are you still having handshake problems with the comcast unit and the D2... you mentioned that it got worse after you updated to the latest firmware.


----------



## EAnderson

Hi, all


I do use Monster's AVS 2000 automatic voltage stabilizer because of wide voltage variances I encountered prior to installing the AVS 2000; 116-131. It's just a big variac that does really help.

I wonder why Anthem does'nt reccomend any kind of line conditioning or surge protection? Has anyone who uses it seen the benefits that I have? The Shunyata is a line conditioner and is not really for surge protection.

So, will using aftermarket line conditioners and powercables do more harm than good (and it does sound good)and if so then why? I also wonder what Anthems stance is on after-market signal cables as all power is not good clean power.


I guess it may not be good idea to run the ARC-1 software yet based on Bob's mixed results?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/13582968
> 
> 
> bob, are you still having handshake problems with the comcast unit and the D2... you mentioned that it got worse after you updated to the latest firmware.



Yes, I get multiple static-like flashes when changing HDMI resolutions from the Comcast box. Once locked in at a given resolution, however, it seems pretty stable.


WHAT'S MORE, when it does finally lock in (may take 5-10 seconds worst case) it is always RIGHT. There are no more of the cases where the aspect ratio is wrong after the handshake. This is a win. No more having to switch away and back to redo the handshake to get the picture looking right.


If it turns out I have to change my video board to fix my Video Source Adjust menu problem, then I'll get to see if there is any difference between the old and new boards in this regard.

--Bob


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13583408
> 
> 
> Hi, all
> 
> 
> I do use Monster's AVS 2000 automatic voltage stabilizer because of wide voltage variances I encountered prior to installing the AVS 2000; 116-131. It's just a big variac that does really help.
> 
> I wonder why Anthem does'nt reccomend any kind of line conditioning or surge protection? Has anyone who uses it seen the benefits that I have? The Shunyata is a line conditioner and is not really for surge protection.
> 
> So, will using aftermarket line conditioners and powercables do more harm than good (and it does sound good)and if so then why? I also wonder what Anthems stance is on after-market signal cables as all power is not good clean power.
> 
> 
> I guess it may not be good idea to run the ARC-1 software yet based on Bob's mixed results?



I've used a Richard Gray Power Company 600S for several years, first with an AVM 20 and now with a D2. I have never had an issue with these two processors and the 600S.


Buddy


----------



## bluemark81

Currently I am still running v1.11e. Can anyone tell me what features the new software v1.31 has over 1.11e? Are the features worth the upgrade?


----------



## BruiserG

Finally got my ARC Kit this afternoon and ran it first thing when I got home. I haven't done a ton of listening so far but in short I found the results to be outstanding. Better than I had expected. To be honest, I wasn't feeling a lot of excitement from those who had used it already so I didn't know what to expect. In any case, clarity and imaging are greatly improved. Screen pans and sound placement are pin point accurate. Dialogue is crisp and clean. And of course, my sub is seemlessly integrated with my other speakers. Overall, it has brightened the sound of my system slightly, but not too much to be annoying or exhausting. I think this is simply a result of it cleaning up all the muddiness that my room was adding.


I am unable to add attachments, but I followed Nick's advise and let it role off at 5K. I still want to give 10K a try at some point, but his explanation about the naturalness of some indoor room gain, and the quirkiness of dwelling in directional frequences does make sense.


One question that I'm hoping someone can answer - It set my crossovers as follows:


Fronts - 55Hz

Center - 160Hz

Surrounds - 80Hz

Sub - 75Hz


My question is, what happens to the center / surround information that is below their crossovers but above 75Hz? Is it lost? I realize that there is overlap, but 160 to 75 is quite a large gap.


Thank you,


Ed


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13584257
> 
> 
> Currently I am still running v1.11e. Can anyone tell me what features the new software v1.31 has over 1.11e? Are the features worth the upgrade?



I went from V1.11 (the original) to V1.31, and I'd say the imaging quality improvements alone are worth the upgrade!


For D2 owners, V1.31 also allows you to add the ARC upgrade.


You also get 4 Video Output configurations (assignable to any source device).


There have been quite a few bug fixes since the V1.11 software versions as well. In particular, folks using Component video input devices may find some of the bug fixes make their sources look much better. There have been a few posts here listing the changes, but I suppose it doesn't hurt to list them again:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v1.31:
> 
> 
> 1. (Statement D2 only) Added room correction - enabling this feature requires ARC-1 microphone kit.
> 
> 
> 2. More HDMI, HDCP, and Macrovision related changes to make largest possible number of sources compatible.
> 
> 
> 3. Number of video-out configurations is increased to four.
> 
> 
> 4. The video muted background color can now be set independently of the setup menu background color. Recommended: Set video mute to gray to prevent blue screen when switching input and/or resolution changes from native-output cable box.
> 
> 
> 5. Fixed crackling problem exhibited in some units when multichannel PCM input was played.
> 
> 
> 6. 2-line display shows input resolution in upper line and volume in lower line.
> 
> 
> 7. Menus 6 and 7 show renamed source names beside factory source names.
> 
> 
> 8. Enabled HDMI audio-in when no HDMI display is connected.
> 
> 
> 9. Fixed Component2 passthrough mode.
> 
> 
> 10. Improvements to installer stability with various PC and hardware combinations.
> 
> 
> 
> v1.20:
> 
> 
> 1. Setup menu 24 characters wide instead of 28 due to old character generator becoming obsolete.
> 
> 
> 2. Analog input level meter now has overload indication (pink = signal is within last 6 dB of scale, red = overload).
> 
> 
> 3. Dual video output configuration added, assignable by input.
> 
> 
> 4. Setup menus rearranged including split between source setup and mode presets.
> 
> 
> 5. MODE key shortcuts rearranged to include video-out selection.
> 
> 
> 6. Contrast adjustment bars added to SMPTE color bar test pattern.
> 
> 
> 7. Added ability to select HDMI audio-in with alternate video-in.
> 
> 
> 8. Deleted Bass Peak Level Manager - too many "bass sounds thin" calls arising from misuse, and because decent subs normally don't need external limiting.
> 
> 
> 9. Major HDMI/EDID driver changes to address capabilities of latest HD disc players and other newer sources without corruption of earlier sources, and to improve 'auto' video-out setting with DVI displays (auto relies on info from the display - if it doesn't appear that the correct output is in effect, use forced settings).
> 
> 
> 10. Added Dialog Normalization to info when Status is pressed (not displayed when 0 dB).
> 
> 
> 11. More installer changes to address a variation of XP.
> 
> 
> 12. Added gamma curve generating tools to Live Video Settings Editor to make curve creation and simple gain/offset adjustments quicker and easier.
> 
> 
> 13. Upgraded D1s now display "D2" instead of "D1-HD".
> 
> 
> 14. DVD2 and DVD3 now disabled by default (still set as pillarbox and 16:9 input crop respectively).
> 
> 
> 15. Improved lock for analog video input.
> 
> 
> 16. Improved frame lock.
> 
> 
> 17. Increased serial command buffering at power-on.
> 
> 
> 18. Improved handling of 1080p24 in to 1080p24 out without using frame lock.
> 
> 
> 
> v1.11:
> 
> 
> 1. In some instances there was a problem installing v1.10 - we apologize for any inconvenience. v1.11 has modified buffering that works with all computers that we could test with. If this does not work, please contact tech support, listing as many details as you can about your computer's hardware and operating system.
> 
> 
> 
> v1.10:
> 
> 
> As of this version, video source adjustments cannot be made if the selected source has no video input.
> 
> 
> 1. Added gamma correction (through Live Video Settings Editor).
> 
> 
> 2. Added custom output resolution and timing (through Live Video Settings Editor).
> 
> 
> 3. Added frame lock.
> 
> 
> 4. Added multiple input memory.
> 
> 
> 5. Reduced number of color space conversions. Note that because of this, if input is RGB and output is RGB, Color and Tint adjustments can no longer be made - simply set your source to YCbCr output instead of RGB if adjustment is necessary.
> 
> 
> 6. Added colon (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to character set for renaming sources.
> 
> 
> 7. Increased HDMI compatibility yet again. Known problems are very few at this time. If you are experiencing problems, ensure that all connected equipment has latest drivers installed before contacting tech support (you might need to contact your cable/sat company).
> 
> 
> If you need to contact Anthem tech support regarding connectivity from a computer's video output, please provide details including operating system, build of operating system, microprocessor, video card model, software, version of software, and settings. If your computer provides EDID status, that would greatly help as well.
> 
> 
> 
> v1.06:
> 
> 
> 1. Increased HDMI compatibility with a certain DVD player.
> 
> 
> 2. Removed from menu 8 output resolutions which can't always be supported by HDMI connection due to bandwidth restriction. **YOU MAY NEED TO RESET OUTPUT RESOLUTION IN MENU 8 depending on which you had set. If you cannot see an image on your display after the update, use the front panel display to navigate through the menu. Even if you are getting a picture immediately after this update, check menu 8 to make sure that the output resolution and refresh rate are set correctly since the setting may have changed to another that works, but with lower performance.
> 
> 
> If you are saving your settings in menu 12, be sure to back them up after making this change.
> 
> 
> If you were using Settings Editor, the wrong value will may stored there. After the software update, save the setup again using Setup Editor v1.06 (now called Setup Editor to prevent confusion with the Live Video Settings Editor).
> 
> 
> 
> v1.04:
> 
> 
> 1. Increased compatibility with HDMI-connected equipment that doesn't follow all of the HDMI spec.
> 
> 
> 2. Added adjustments for analog video inputs - see pdf file.
> 
> 
> Tip: If you are using S-Video inputs and prefer the appearance of the hi-def OSD characters vs the default S-Video ones, you can enable the HD characters with S-Video inputs, although they will appear only when a video signal is present - change first item in menu 11 to HD Only.
> 
> 
> 
> v1.00 D2 / v1.01 AVM 50:
> 
> 
> 1. Initial releases.



--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BruiserG* /forum/post/13584271
> 
> 
> One question that I'm hoping someone can answer - It set my crossovers as follows:
> 
> 
> Fronts - 55Hz
> 
> Center - 160Hz
> 
> Surrounds - 80Hz
> 
> Sub - 75Hz
> 
> 
> My question is, what happens to the center / surround information that is below their crossovers but above 75Hz? Is it lost? I realize that there is overlap, but 160 to 75 is quite a large gap.
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> Ed



The cross overs roll off through about an octave (double the frequency or half the frequency). So youe Sub will be getting attenuated audio up to about 150 Hz and your Center will be getting attenuated audio down to about 80 Hz.


Depending on the room gain in that region, this could be enough overlap for a good transition. Generally speaking you want a sub that can produce good sound up to twice its crossover frequency and you want mains that can produce sound down to half of their cross-over frequency. If your sub and mains can do that, and there's some overlap, then you are probably OK.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm trying a new procedure for doing my ARC stuff now.


I do the measurements on my Windows XP (on a Macbook) with the Keyspan adapter to drive the D2 during the measurement process. I do the Calculation in the XP environment as well.


But then I transfer the file over to my Windows 2000 laptop and use its real serial port to do the ARC results Upload to the D2. I believe my prior Uploads using the Keyspan were corrupted and the ARC application was not catching that during its Verify of the Upload.


So far, each of the Uploads I've done with the real serial port on Windows 2000 seems to have worked without any problems. However I don't believe you can actually do the measurement process when running ARC on Windows 2000 (due to the mic input software issue). So I still need to use the XP (on Macbook) environment for that.


---------------------------------------


Meanwhile, I somehow managed to corrupt the measurements and calculated results files I made yesterday evening. Uploading them produced a serious bass rumble noise for any source with Room EQ = ON. This seems to be the problem that ARC V1.1 was supposed to prevent, and I have no clue what I did to corrupt the files, but old ARC results files Upload and run without rumble so it is just those files from yesterday (which used to work) that I've corrupted.


I think it MAY have been something I did wrong when I did the recalculation for 10K or 20K, but I'm not sure.


In any event, I went and made a new set of measurements and THIS TIME I got smart enough to mark the measurements file READ ONLY right after it was created. Then I restarted ARC, Opened that Read Only file, and did a Save As to make a new file. Then I did the Calculations in that new file and then promptly marked it Read Only as well.


I.e., I don't do the Calculations in the same file that holds the original measurements (which preserves those measurements against any screwup I might do). And I'll create a new file from that to hold each Calculation I do, making each of them Read Only as I go.


---------------------------------


This time I also decided to try doing a separate Movie and Music configuration (with the Center speaker disabled for Music). One thing that surprised me is that you end up having to make two complete passes -- one pass through each measurement location for Movie and then AGAIN through each measurement location for Music.


I've no idea why ARC can't use the Movie measurements for Music as well for speakers that are common to both configurations.


I did the calculation with the default 5 KHz top frequency, and then did my ARC two-step (transferring the file to the Windows 2000 machine and Uploading from there).


-----------------------------------------


And VOILA!


For the first time I *THINK* I may have ARC that is working completely correctly from bass all the way through treble!


I've just started doing critical listening, but the distortion that I was hearing in the high mid-range appears to be gone!


I'll post charts if this setup holds up against additional critical listening.


Stay tuned.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13584555
> 
> 
> And VOILA!
> 
> 
> For the first time I *THINK* I may have ARC that is working completely correctly from bass all the way through treble!
> 
> 
> I've just started doing critical listening, but the distortion that I was hearing in the high mid-range appears to be gone!
> 
> 
> I'll post charts if this setup holds up against additional critical listening.
> 
> 
> Stay tuned.
> 
> --Bob



Definitely staying tuned Bob.


If the distortion is in fact gone, I am very interested in hearing what you believe was causing it in the first place, and how the ARC apparently corrected itself?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13584358
> 
> 
> I went from V1.11 (the original) to V1.31, and I'd say the imaging quality improvements alone are worth the upgrade!
> 
> 
> For D2 owners, V1.31 also allows you to add the ARC upgrade.
> 
> 
> You also get 4 Video Output configurations (assignable to any source device).
> 
> 
> There have been quite a few bug fixes since the V1.11 software versions as well. In particular, folks using Component video input devices may find some of the bug fixes make their sources look much better. There have been a few posts here listing the changes, but I suppose it doesn't hurt to list them again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Would you explain what you mean by the improvements in imaging quality? ie What aspects have improved, color, detail?, are there improvements from all sources?, etc.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13584408
> 
> 
> The cross overs roll off through about an octave (double the frequency or half the frequency). So youe Sub will be getting attenuated audio up to about 150 Hz and your Center will be getting attenuated audio down to about 80 Hz.
> 
> 
> Depending on the room gain in that region, this could be enough overlap for a good transition. Generally speaking you want a sub that can produce good sound up to twice its crossover frequency and you want mains that can produce sound down to half of their cross-over frequency. If your sub and mains can do that, and there's some overlap, then you are probably OK.
> 
> --Bob



Does the ARC software show the same 160Hz crossover for your center?


I have no idea about your speakers or room, but I think you would be the only one so far where the ARC has raised your Center EQ (Edit: Crossover) and I am guessing that it just about doubled it if not more.


It adjusted mine from a70Hz to 45/50Hz, but I guess that isn't really a gauge given all the variables. Still looks like a bit of an anomaly to me.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13584648
> 
> 
> Definitely staying tuned Bob.
> 
> 
> If the distortion is in fact gone, I am very interested in hearing what you believe was causing it in the first place, and how the ARC apparently corrected itself?



Hee Hee,


Bob has run ARC 500 times in two days.


He has tried permutations and combinations that the engineers probably never even thought of (including variants in Mic height, Manipulation of the measurement, Calculated and Uploading files across multiple computers....


He has pretty much done everything except, De-compile the EXE, tweak the code and recompile it (You haven't done that yet have you Bob?)


And you suggest the ARC may have fixed itself hahaa.


OK, maybe it did, but it just sounded funny in that context
























Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13584555
> 
> 
> However I don't believe you can actually do the measurement process when running ARC on Windows 2000 (due to the mic input software issue).--Bob



No, ARC does not work on Windows 2000. I originally tried doing my ARC on Windows 2000; but, I received an error about my mic was not valid. However, once I received my laptop back from the shop, which has XP on it, I didn't have any problems running ARC.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13584648
> 
> 
> Definitely staying tuned Bob.
> 
> 
> If the distortion is in fact gone, I am very interested in hearing what you believe was causing it in the first place, and how the ARC apparently corrected itself?



The ARC application uploads several different things to the D2: "Gains", "Room Correction", "Speaker Levels", "Speaker Configuration". Only the last two are visible in the Setup menu after the Upload.


Since I was seeing some faulty uploads of those two that were not caught by the application's Verify processing, I suspect there were also some faulty data items uploaded into Gains and Room Correction as well. And that's likely where my distortion was coming from.


Just a guess of course, but it makes sense to me.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13584678
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Would you explain what you mean by the improvements in imaging quality? ie What aspects have improved, color, detail?, are there improvements from all sources?, etc.



The improvement is dramatic. And not just to me. Others who are familiar with what this combo used to produce have commented that it just "looks better".


I see it in HDMI input from SD-DVD, SDTV and HDTV (I don't have a Blu-Ray player yet). My S-video sources are user interfaces rather than video content, so they don't count. And I haven't had a chance to experiment with Component video input yet.


(I use HDMI to DVI to my Fujitsu plasma for output.)


The calibration levels for input and output have not changed from what was correct with V1.11 in this combo, so it is not as simple as Anthem having corrected some errors there. (NOTE: I suspect folks using Component inputs or display MAY need to recalibrate due to Component video bug fixes.)


Nevertheless, dark imaging near black is a LOT cleaner. I suspect there's been some change in the dithering algorithm they were using.


I also think they've made some adjustments in noise reduction, and in the default Gamma curve. Or perhaps they just fixed some rounding errors in their video processing. Without doing computer analysis of the digital video signals it would be hard to pin it down.


And based on the SD-DVD HQV test disc, they've also made some improvements in de-interlacing for the slower, jerkier cadences used in some animation (particularly anime).


The net result is that shadows and dark grays (nighttime mist for example) are a lot cleaner, and the imaging looks more "transparent" across the full brightness range. Now mind you, I was quite happy with the video I was getting in V1.11, so this is a surprise to me.


ETA: One good test of this, is that "intentional" film grain in some DVD transfers now LOOKS LIKE film grain instead of noise or worse.


In addition, I've run the "video processor torture test" scenes I use to see the worst video I can get, and so far I haven't found ANY downside to whatever it is Anthem changed this time. So far, it's ALL good news on the video front.

--Bob


----------



## rsnodgrass

Thanks Nick @ Anthem for posting comments on this forum! I just read back through your prior posts and learned a few other tweaks that I need to apply to my setup.


Keep sharing the details so everyone learns!


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13585085
> 
> 
> The improvement is dramatic. And not just to me. Others who are familiar with what this combo used to produce have commented that it just "looks better".
> 
> 
> I see it in HDMI input from SD-DVD, SDTV and HDTV (I don't have a Blu-Ray player yet). My S-video sources are user interfaces rather than video content, so they don't count. And I haven't had a chance to experiment with Component video input yet.
> 
> 
> (I use HDMI to DVI to my Fujitsu plasma for output.)
> 
> 
> The calibration levels for input and output have not changed from what was correct with V1.11 in this combo, so it is not as simple as Anthem having corrected some errors there. (NOTE: I suspect folks using Component inputs or display MAY need to recalibrate due to Component video bug fixes.)
> 
> 
> Nevertheless, dark imaging near black is a LOT cleaner. I suspect there's been some change in the dithering algorithm they were using.
> 
> 
> I also think they've made some adjustments in noise reduction, and in the default Gamma curve. Or perhaps they just fixed some rounding errors in their video processing. Without doing computer analysis of the digital video signals it would be hard to pin it down.
> 
> 
> And based on the SD-DVD HQV test disc, they've also made some improvements in de-interlacing for the slower, jerkier cadences used in some animation (particularly anime).
> 
> 
> The net result is that shadows and dark grays (nighttime mist for example) are a lot cleaner, and the imaging looks more "transparent" across the full brightness range. Now mind you, I was quite happy with the video I was getting in V1.11, so this is a surprise to me.
> 
> 
> ETA: One good test of this, is that "intentional" film grain in some DVD transfers now LOOKS LIKE film grain instead of noise or worse.
> 
> 
> In addition, I've run the "video processor torture test" scenes I use to see the worst video I can get, and so far I haven't found ANY downside to whatever it is Anthem changed this time. So far, it's ALL good news on the video front.
> 
> --Bob


*Are these the differences between v 1.30 and 1.31 ?* I am using v 1.30a right now with ARC 1.1 It took a long time to get rid of the low noise rumble. Now that everything is working great do I even suggest going to 1.31 to get the better Video?


----------



## BruiserG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13584762
> 
> 
> Does the ARC software show the same 160Hz crossover for your center?
> 
> 
> I have no idea about your speakers or room, but I think you would be the only one so far where the ARC has raised your Center EQ (Edit: Crossover) and I am guessing that it just about doubled it if not more.
> 
> 
> It adjusted mine from a70Hz to 45/50Hz, but I guess that isn't really a gauge given all the variables. Still looks like a bit of an anomaly to me.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Yep, in the ARC software too. The weird thing is, my speakers are Krix KDX-M's (Fronts and Surrounds) and a KDX-C for the center - which is EXACTLY the same speaker, but for a slightly changed internal crossover to account for it sitting on its side. But their capabilities are not that different, yet my L/R crossover is at 55Hz. Weird, but it sounds NOTICIBLY better so I'm not going to argue with it too much.


Ok, well maybe a little. I've upped the frequency range to 10KHz and brought down the center to 140Hz (upon further listening it was sounding a little thin at 160). We'll give it a go with this and see how it sounds...


Also, Bob, thank you for your response. It was helpful to know that their attenuation ranges were a lot closer that I had suspected.


----------



## muad'dib

Do most of you with ARC's find that the auto cross-over values the ARC makes for each speaker is correct??



I ask this because, for the longest time, I always beleived that the speakers should be cross-overed at 80hz (arn't movies mixed this way), and that since the SUB will do all the common bass at the same frequencies for all channels (80hz and down).


Now with the ARC making different values for each speaker, would the bass NOT sound the same as sounds travel from speaker to speaker.. An example would be, a movie with a train moving from Left, center, right, then to back speakers.. If the ARC made the main speakers have a different crossover than the center, the bass would sound different when the sub takes over...??











Anyway, I love the ARC, it has really opened the sound in my room... I did however find that the using the 5000hz for frequency sounded the best.. I tried 20000hz and seemed to get a strange quality in sound in treble, mids.. Maybe the sounds Bob was getting that sounded like processing noise..










Thanx again for all of you putting up with this stupid question about the crossovers, but I just need to know if I should set the target to 80hz for all channels, then re-calculate, or let the ARC do it's magic with it's determined Crossovers..



Thanx..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13585189
> 
> *Are these the differences between v 1.30 and 1.31 ?* I am using v 1.30a right now with ARC 1.1 It took a long time to get rid of the low noise rumble. Now that everything is working great do I even suggest going to 1.31 to get the better Video?



NO. They are between V1.11 and V1.31.


I'd be very surprised if there are any video differences between V1.30 and V1.31. I never installed V1.30 so I can't be sure, but I think you are fine to stay with what you've got.

--Bob


----------



## BruiserG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/13585359
> 
> 
> Do most of you with ARC's find that the auto cross-over values the ARC makes for each speaker is correct??
> 
> 
> 
> I ask this because, for the longest time, I always beleived that the speakers should be cross-overed at 80hz (arn't movies mixed this way), and that since the SUB will do all the common bass at the same frequencies for all channels (80hz and down).
> 
> 
> Now with the ARC making different values for each speaker, would the bass NOT sound the same as sounds travel from speaker to speaker.. An example would be, a movie with a train moving from Left, center, right, then to back speakers.. If the ARC made the main speakers have a different crossover than the center, the bass would sound different when the sub takes over...??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I love the ARC, it has really opened the sound in my room... I did however find that the using the 5000hz for frequency sounded the best.. I tried 20000hz and seemed to get a strange quality in sound in treble, mids.. Maybe the sounds Bob was getting that sounded like processing noise..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanx again for all of you putting up with this stupid question about the crossovers, but I just need to know if I should set the target to 80hz for all channels, then re-calculate, or let the ARC do it's magic with it's determined Crossovers..
> 
> 
> 
> Thanx..



80 is a rule of thumb (and a THX recommendation), but by no means a hard and fast rule. What you want from each of your main chanels is as linear a response as possible across the frequency range (20Hz to 20KHz). Your main speakers will roll off before they get to 20Hz - hence the need for a subwoofer to take over to ensure the response stays linear. However, where the sub optimially takes over in order to ensure as linear a response as possible will vary based on numerous factors - a few of which are the capabilities of each of your speakers, the components driving them, and their placement in your room and how they interact with other objects in your home.


As a result, each speaker is very likely to have a different optimal crossover point. Using 80 is a blanket approach that does not take into account your equipment or room. The beauty of room correction is that "listens" to each speaker and figures this out for you.


That's a very long way of saying that you should not just use 80 as a magic crossover frequency if you have ARC to calculate the crossovers for you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/13585359
> 
> 
> Do most of you with ARC's find that the auto cross-over values the ARC makes for each speaker is correct??
> 
> 
> 
> I ask this because, for the longest time, I always beleived that the speakers should be cross-overed at 80hz (arn't movies mixed this way), and that since the SUB will do all the common bass at the same frequencies for all channels (80hz and down).
> 
> 
> Now with the ARC making different values for each speaker, would the bass NOT sound the same as sounds travel from speaker to speaker.. An example would be, a movie with a train moving from Left, center, right, then to back speakers.. If the ARC made the main speakers have a different crossover than the center, the bass would sound different when the sub takes over...??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I love the ARC, it has really opened the sound in my room... I did however find that the using the 5000hz for frequency sounded the best.. I tried 20000hz and seemed to get a strange quality in sound in treble, mids.. Maybe the sounds Bob was getting that sounded like processing noise..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanx again for all of you putting up with this stupid question about the crossovers, but I just need to know if I should set the target to 80hz for all channels, then re-calculate, or let the ARC do it's magic with it's determined Crossovers..
> 
> 
> 
> Thanx..



Audio down in the bass range (below, roughly, 120 Hz) is non-directional. It is more a matter of "pressurizing" the room. That means it doesn't matter which speaker the bass is coming from. Proper bass is perceived as coming from all around you regardless of which speaker produced it.


80 Hz is a good target that works for many cases, but spreading or overlapping the cross overs allows for correcting a variety of room conditions.


The only time I'd worry about the cross overs ARC is producing is if you know the main speaker can't go that low or the sub can't go that high without distortion. Generally speaking you want a main speaker crossover to be around twice it's lowest rated frequency and a subwoofer crossover to be about half its highest rated frequency. Since cross over filters are not hard cutoffs, audio frequencies beyond the crossover will still go to the sub or main speaker, and by leaving an octave of margin means you are less likely to get distorted audio from the speaker or sub when that happens.


But again, these are guidelines. The attenuated audio from beyond the cross over may be less important than smoothing out the room response in terms of the over all impact and seamlessness of the audio.


I think it would be best to trust ARC at this point -- at least until we get more practical results here showing cases where ARC might be going too far trying to fix things.

--Bob


----------



## EAnderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13583408
> 
> 
> Hi, all
> 
> 
> I do use Monster's AVS 2000 automatic voltage stabilizer because of wide voltage variances I encountered prior to installing the AVS 2000; 116-131. It's just a big variac that does really help.
> 
> I wonder why Anthem does'nt reccomend any kind of line conditioning or surge protection? Has anyone who uses it seen the benefits that I have? The Shunyata is a line conditioner and is not really for surge protection.
> 
> So, will using aftermarket line conditioners and powercables do more harm than good (and it does sound good)and if so then why? I also wonder what Anthems stance is on after-market signal cables as all power is not good clean power.
> 
> 
> I guess it may not be good idea to run the ARC-1 software yet based on Bob's mixed results?



Anyone? Comments? Ideas? sugestions? Anyone? Advice?


----------



## EAnderson

Anyone using aftermarket powercables with their D2's? How about any kind of line conditioners? If so what have your results been like and what are you all using?


Thanks, Eric


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13585840
> 
> 
> Anyone using aftermarket powercables with their D2's? How about any kind of line conditioners? If so what have your results been like and what are you all using?
> 
> 
> Thanks, Eric



I use Black Sands power cables for my D2 and Ice Amp. I also use a BPT power conditioner modified by Alan Maher, which is plugged into a variac which is plugged into a dedicated circuit. I have used this setup for years, even before I got the D2 and this power setup will never leave my system.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13585085
> 
> 
> The improvement is dramatic. And not just to me. Others who are familiar with what this combo used to produce have commented that it just "looks better".
> 
> 
> I see it in HDMI input from SD-DVD, SDTV and HDTV (I don't have a Blu-Ray player yet). My S-video sources are user interfaces rather than video content, so they don't count. And I haven't had a chance to experiment with Component video input yet.
> 
> 
> (I use HDMI to DVI to my Fujitsu plasma for output.)
> 
> 
> The calibration levels for input and output have not changed from what was correct with V1.11 in this combo, so it is not as simple as Anthem having corrected some errors there. (NOTE: I suspect folks using Component inputs or display MAY need to recalibrate due to Component video bug fixes.)
> 
> 
> Nevertheless, dark imaging near black is a LOT cleaner. I suspect there's been some change in the dithering algorithm they were using.
> 
> 
> I also think they've made some adjustments in noise reduction, and in the default Gamma curve. Or perhaps they just fixed some rounding errors in their video processing. Without doing computer analysis of the digital video signals it would be hard to pin it down.
> 
> 
> And based on the SD-DVD HQV test disc, they've also made some improvements in de-interlacing for the slower, jerkier cadences used in some animation (particularly anime).
> 
> 
> The net result is that shadows and dark grays (nighttime mist for example) are a lot cleaner, and the imaging looks more "transparent" across the full brightness range. Now mind you, I was quite happy with the video I was getting in V1.11, so this is a surprise to me.
> 
> 
> ETA: One good test of this, is that "intentional" film grain in some DVD transfers now LOOKS LIKE film grain instead of noise or worse.
> 
> 
> In addition, I've run the "video processor torture test" scenes I use to see the worst video I can get, and so far I haven't found ANY downside to whatever it is Anthem changed this time. So far, it's ALL good news on the video front.
> 
> --Bob



Sounds like a convincing argument to do the firmware upgrade. I am running HDMI from my SAT and Oppo DVD into the Anthem and HDMI to a Panasonic plasma. I never found my darks/blacks very good through the Oppo, so perhaps this will help?


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13585840
> 
> 
> Anyone using aftermarket powercables with their D2's? How about any kind of line conditioners? If so what have your results been like and what are you all using?
> 
> 
> Thanks, Eric



I just started using a Shunyata Guardian with their Venom cables on the D2. I plugged in my P5 also just to break them in. I do notice that the sound is more "liquid". The sound is also more consistent during the day. It used to sounds best later in the evenings. I plan on getting another Guardian and cables for the P5.

I also have some mechanical noise in my amplifiers due to too much DC on the line, so I will be adding some PS Audio humbusters as soon as they release their new line (supposedly will be out this Summer).


----------



## EAnderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChantheMan* /forum/post/13586710
> 
> 
> I just started using a Shunyata Guardian with their Venom cables on the D2. I plugged in my P5 also just to break them in. I do notice that the sound is more "liquid". The sound is also more consistent during the day. It used to sounds best later in the evenings. I plan on getting another Guardian and cables for the P5.
> 
> I also have some mechanical noise in my amplifiers due to too much DC on the line, so I will be adding some PS Audio humbusters as soon as they release their new line (supposedly will be out this Summer).



I've not seen the Guardian however I've heard they were similar to to the Hyrdas (I'll have to give them a listen). Are the PS Audio Humbusters designed to remove ground hums?

I'm glad I'm not the only one who've heard and seen benefits using good aftermarket powercables and line conditioning. I was starting to think I was crazy for what I was seeing and hearing, my wife knows I'm crazy for spending the money.

I'm just trying to get the most performance from my D2 and Theta amp combo.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BruiserG* /forum/post/13585306
> 
> 
> I've upped the frequency range to 10KHz and brought down the center to 140Hz (upon further listening it was sounding a little thin at 160). We'll give it a go with this and see how it sounds...



Nick from Anthem made a pretty convincing argument in a post a page or so back that it is not a good idea to raise the upper Target frequency in ARC above the default 5 KHz regardless of whether the resulting, "Calculated" curves look better. Go back and re-read his post. Among other things, such frequencies are too directional for the ARC mic to pick up good data to feed into the calculations. I'm sticking to 5 KHz myself now.

--Bob


----------



## BruiserG

Ha, I have acually already switched back to 5 KHz. I saw Nick's comments and they definitely make sense to me, but call it an urge to play with the new toy, I decided to give it a shot to see what the differences were at 10KHz. Low and behold, I liked it better at 5KHz. I couldn't put my finger on what the specific differences were, but the sound just lost a touch of naturalness and seemlessness to me. In any case, I'm sticking with 5KHz myself as well.


As of now I am just playing around with the crossover for my center. I think I see why it put the crossover so high. I have it sitting on a glass shelf that is semi-enclosed, and never realized how much coloration this was adding until now. When I dropped the crossover, there was a distinct muddiness at lower frequencies. I especially heard it in low voices.


----------



## izzihd

Have an ARC on order. My current set-up has the phase control on my D1 set to 10 degrees for best bass from the sub.


Can I retain this setting after running ARC, or does ARC adjust sub phase for you?


Thanks.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13585840
> 
> 
> Anyone using aftermarket powercables with their D2's? How about any kind of line conditioners? If so what have your results been like and what are you all using?
> 
> 
> Thanks, Eric



I am using PS Audio's Statement power cord plugged into the PS Audio Quintet. Another Statement power cord from the Quintet to the wall. I have never used the stock cord, so can't comment on those results, but the Quintet seems to improve things, whether my imagination or not. I perceive a wider soundstage. More open sounding. I don't think there have been any noticeable video improvements. If there are, they have been subtle.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13585840
> 
> 
> Anyone using aftermarket powercables with their D2's? How about any kind of line conditioners? If so what have your results been like and what are you all using?
> 
> 
> Thanks, Eric



I use the Stealth Audio M21 Super power cords . I'd like to think they make a difference, but I haven't done any blind testing to know. I was using a customized BPT line conditioner, but recently pulled it and have a high current power distribution system from Triplite with a UPS behind it.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13585551
> 
> 
> NO. They are between V1.11 and V1.31.
> 
> 
> I'd be very surprised if there are any video differences between V1.30 and V1.31. I never installed V1.30 so I can't be sure, but I think you are fine to stay with what you've got.
> 
> --Bob



Great. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *izzihd* /forum/post/13587531
> 
> 
> Have an ARC on order. My current set-up has the phase control on my D1 set to 10 degrees for best bass from the sub.
> 
> 
> Can I retain this setting after running ARC, or does ARC adjust sub phase for you?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



As best we can tell so far from reports here, ARC does *NOT* attempt to adjust Polarity or Phase for the subwoofer. This matches what the manual suggests as well (see the captions under the pictures of the Speaker Configuration menus).


ARC listens to only one speaker at a time, so I see no way its calculations can account for Polarity or Phase errors. But this also means you can adjust Polarity or Phase before or after running the ARC measurements without having to re-measure, since errors in these two settings won't make a wit of difference in what ARC hears from any one speaker at a time.


I think it is best to assume ARC does its calculation under the assumption of minimal or no Polarity or Phase errors screwing up the predicted results. So you should go through the process of tweaking these manually for best post-ARC results just as you would do for manual audio setup.


Since my best Polarity and Phase settings are Normal and 0 (the defaults) in the Setup menu, one thing I'm not sure of is whether an ARC upload would undo anything you might have previously entered in there, requiring you to re-enter it manually. It's easy enough to check and correct if necessary of course.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13588208
> 
> 
> Great. Thanks.



You know, my answer was just with regards to video. I wonder whether you need to update to V1.31 for audio? I know you updated to ARC V1.1 to get rid of your rumble noise, but I don't know if it needs V1.31 firmware as well to match.


Are you sure your installer didn't update the firmware to V1.31 when he switched to ARC V1.1 for you?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well I think I'm getting pretty close to ARC perfection here, and I'm definitely starting to experience the Wow factor.


The distortion I was hearing in the high mid-ranges is definitely gone. I suspect uploading ARC results using a real serial port was the key to this.


My current setup is based on 5 measurements, all at the same, seated, ear height along the sofa. The Velodyne sub's internal bass EQ is disabled. I also did both setups (Cinema and Music) with the Center speaker turned off for the Music setup. And the default Targets are used in the calculation (e.g., 5 KHz as the top Target frequency for the EQ).


Here are the Cinema charts and the Targets panel:




























The charts for the Music measurement are very similar (except that there's no Center speaker). The variations are probably due to the fact that you can't reposition the microphone precisely for the separate Cinema and Music measurements since it does all positions for Cinema and then does them OVER AGAIN for Music. I suppose this is a good thing if your common listening positions for Music are different than for Cinema. But in my case, where they are identical, it is a pain in the neck.


The cross overs resulting from the two measurements match, but for some reason the Room Gain is different for Music.


After setting up the results I did an SPL meter check of the speaker volume balances (using DVE) and they are within +/- 1 dB. I also rechecked what Velodyne's own test tones and mic show for bass response up through and beyond the cross over. The curve is surprisingly flat at all my listening positions but it does slope up gently across the entire sweep range. I believe this matches the "hump" that ARC is targeting.


Critical listening in Music mode shows no problems at all. I am convinced that ARC is giving me significantly better results for Music. Bass transition is seamless and the imaging and transparency of the sound is at least as good, and usually better, than what I had pre-ARC.


For Cinema listening, I'm not quite convinced I've got the best results from my Center channel speaker yet. The other speakers are just as good as with Music, and in general the same high quality results are obtained.


But as usual when you make audio (or video) more revealing, you start hearing things you didn't hear before. And if you are hearing something you don't want you have to figure out whether it is the CONTENT or the REPRODUCTION which is at fault.


In my case the Center speaker is over-emphasizing sibilants in speech -- which of course would be coming out of the Center speaker. It was particularly noticeable listening to the HDTV baseball broadcast from ESPN -- where the announcer has the mic too close to his mouth.


Turning Room EQ off I can still hear the sibilants, but since the whole center channel is "duller" they are concealed. So this would point to a Content problem. I need to do more listening on this. Obviously my Center speaker was the oddest of the "measured" curves. And what's curious is that the Center speaker curve is odder in the measurements made all at seated ear height compared to the ones I posted early with 3 at seated height and 3 more behind them (about 3 feet) at standing ear height. I suspect there are some reflections or something that are altering the Center speaker measurements at seated ear height.


Now don't confuse this with the high mid-range distortion I was fighting earlier. This is NOT that. It is just a different coloration or timbre in the Center speaker than what I'm used to. I have to do more listening to decide whether or not this is something that needs to be corrected somehow (I'm not sure how).


So right now my Music with ARC is just great, and I *THINK* movies with ARC are also great (pending more study of this Center speaker thing), but live TV broadcasts with ARC are making me take notice of sibilants in speech that I'd rather not notice.


ETA: One important factor in doing these tests of the Center speaker is to determine whether THX Re-Equalization should be turned on or not (whether or not you are using the rest of the THX post processing). I think it is a GOOD THING that the Center speaker audio quality is at the level where you can hear the difference in this Re-Equalization being on or not, but since not all movies make it clear whether they have ALREADY been re-equalized or not, you can get confusing results unless you take care to note what works best with each movie and switch accordingly as you switch movies and try to compare results.

--Bob


----------



## izzihd

Thanks Bob for the quick help on the phase question. Your frequent "progress reports" are making me very anxious for ARC. I just pinged my dealer again this morning.


----------



## Tim Winders

I've now had time to run my ARC configuration 3 times. Each time I tried to keep the microphone in approximately the same position and I varied the volume of the sub and once moved the position of the sub. Each time the ARC used a levelling volume of approximately 65db. Most recently I had the sub set at 1/2 it's volume. the previous time it was set at less than 1/4 and the first time in between. With the EQ on the sound is great, with the EQ off, it's horrible. The bass is so loud it actually hurts. I'll definitely have to run the setup one more time.


I wish it wasn't so hard to do a reconfiguration. It would be really nice to be able to take a measurement for a single speaker and not have to do everything all over again.


I also have this really annoying dip in the Front Right speaker between 100-200Hz and in the surrounds at 150Hz. Changing the angle of the front right speaker had no effect on the dip. I can only guess the dip is the characteristics of the room, but I don't know what to do about it.


----------



## Tim Winders

Wow! Looks like I have the same problem as Richard.


That's right. Another member suggested I measure the distance my front right speaker is from the wall. When I went to measure, I happened to be playing some music and noticed one of the woofers isn't working! These are B&W 804 speakers. I checked the front left speaker and both woofers are working on it. I'll check with my dealer tomorrow about getting it repaired.


Here are the current measurements and settings.





























So, here's another member finding the incredible value in the ARC-1!


I also tested something with this set of measurements.


For the measurements, I used the same settings for Cinema and Music. Then, before doing the calculations, I changed the center speaker to None. This way, I only had to do one set of calculations, not calculations for both cinema and music.


I'm not sure what effect this will have, but, it might be a big timesaver if it works as expected.


----------



## RROSEN

Ahh the Richard syndrome strikes again,


Not sure whether to congratulate or console you hahaa. In the end I know I would rather find out about my tweeter issue and be able to get it fixed than continue on all ignorant.


Just wondering how embarrassed I should be of not noticing it for "however" long it was like that lol.


At least in your case the woofer is non directional for the most part AND there was another one in the same location to help mask it.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13591930
> 
> 
> Ahh the Richard syndrome strikes again,
> 
> 
> Not sure whether to congratulate or console you hahaa. In the end I know I would rather find out about my tweeter issue and be able to get it fixed than continue on all ignorant.
> 
> 
> Just wondering how embarrassed I should be of not noticing it for "however" long it was like that lol.
> 
> 
> At least in your case the woofer is non directional for the most part AND there was another one in the same location to help mask it.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard




LOL. We have a name for it.... "The Richard Syndrome"
























Yeah, I guess that's my only saving grace... it's a woofer... the speaker has 2 of them... blah blah blah. Still emabarrasing. Definitely better to know about it than continue on in ignorance.


Unfortunately, I'm not 30 miles from B&W where I can drive to them and have them fix it.







Not sure how long it will take to get fixed. Fortunately, I can just remove the driver and get that replaced/fixed and I don't have to be without the entire speaker for however long it takes.


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13587124
> 
> 
> I've not seen the Guardian however I've heard they were similar to to the Hyrdas (I'll have to give them a listen). Are the PS Audio Humbusters designed to remove ground hums?
> 
> I'm glad I'm not the only one who've heard and seen benefits using good aftermarket powercables and line conditioning. I was starting to think I was crazy for what I was seeing and hearing, my wife knows I'm crazy for spending the money.
> 
> I'm just trying to get the most performance from my D2 and Theta amp combo.



The Guardians are a little more affordable. Guardians are floor mount and Hydras are shelf/rack size. The Hydras also have individual filter networks for each outlet pair to isolate the components from each other. The higher end Hydras also upgrade the internal materials used.


Keeping the components are separate filters is why I decided to get some more Guardians (or Hydras). You can get them from www.musicdirect.com which has a lot of great products you can order online.


My interest is mostly on the audio side so I have not conditioned any of my video components.


The PS Audio humbusters that I am looking at do not work on hum from ground loops. They have other products that supposedly help with those issues. Luckily I have no hum or noise coming out of my speakers (or video problems).


Thanks,


Chan


----------



## Shrike645

I must raise my hand as a member of the "richard syndrome". I lower my head in shame. I'm a lot luckier though as it wasn't a blown speaker but just that the jumper was loose on my right front lower end. Am now running another calabration. I thought it sounded good before!


----------



## bluemark81

Just finished downloading 1.31 from 1.11e. Wow, was that a long download compared to previous ones. Haven't had much time to play around with some of the new features yet, but I don't believe I notice any improvements to the video. One thing I do notice is the picture appears to be too low. There is a thin white edge (scan line?) above the picture. Update: turned my "edges on" in the crop input menu. Scan line is gone.


----------



## gtimbers

I wanted to post a few thoughts/guidelines regarding the setup of a 5.1 channel HT. How this applies to ARC follows.


1. The most important thing about multichannel is matching the 5 speakers in level and time (distance)


2. The loudspeakers must have matching amplitude response, polarity and phase characteristics. Think about using one type of speaker as the left and another type of speaker as the right channel of a stereo system. If the speakers are not identical, you will not get proper imaging. Every two loudspeakers create a phantom center zone between them and for that zone to be correct, the speakers must match in both amplitude and phase. A 5 channel setup is 5 sets of stereo speakers with a phantom between each pair of them. The recordings are done with this in mind, and for the acoustic decoding of the sound field to be correct, the speakers must match.

3. #2 is rarely possible, so we cheat to make things as close as possible to ideal.


4. The recordings (movie soundtracks) are set up for 80 Hz to be the most recommended crossover. Although not crucial, it is wise to stay close to this frequency.


5. The use of drastically different acoustic crossover points is not wise and should be avoided. An acoustic crossover point is the actual response of the loudspeaker including any electrical EQ, crossovers and room interaction. It is the point where the low range and high range loudspeakers curves cross. This generally means sub for the low and the 5 individual channels for the high range.


6. Proper summing for in-phase signals requires -6 dB response at crossover. Since we should measure at multiple points in a room for a given loudspeaker, the combined response of the measurements constitutes the response of that loudspeaker. In this case, perfect phase is not likely so less than 6 dB of summing is to be expected. Random signals would sum to around 3 dB and totally in-phase signals sum to around 6 dB, so my suggestion is to use a number between the two (like 4.5 dB)


7. #6 means that the Sub's -4.5 dB point (high end, 80 Hz) and the LCR and Surrounds -4.5 dB low end response should be at about the same frequency (80 Hz). Large amounts of gaps or overlap will cause substantial problems somewhere else in the room. Maybe it doesn't matter but maybe it does. The D2 has the ability to attain good summing at matching crossover points.


8. Setting the time delay for individual channels is very important. This makes the acoustic arrival time of each loudspeaker output to your ears the same. The usual tape measure method works well enough for the LR and surrounds, assuming they are not right up against your listing position. The center is a little tougher to get right. I have found that playing pink noise (or interstation noise from the tuner) with the D2 set to Anthem Cinema is a good way to fine tune the delay. Set the L ,R and C up normally. Play some pink noise and adjust the time delay on the center 1/2 foot at a time. The sound will be most cohesive with the proper setting. Go a little each way and listen for the setting that is best. It is fairly obvious in my experience. 1 foot is about 12" or about 1 millisecond. The Anthem only moves in 1/2 foot (1/2 ms) increments so if you can't decide between 2 adjacent settings, move the center speaker about 3" forward or back. This should make one of the two 1/2 foot positions be better than the other.


9. The delay on the sub is a bear. If you have only 1 sub, you can't make it align properly with all five speakers. The more subs you have scattered around the room, the easier the delay issue can be. You need to try to get the sub distance equalized for all 3 of your front speakers in order to have good summing with all 3 of them. The sub surround summing is less important than that of the front.


The reason similar acoustic crossover points are necessary is stated in #2. The response of the channels must be the same. In the case of ARC, you can choose equal (or nearly so) crossover points and ARC will EQ the response of the individual channels to the same target. Now your channels are matched so different crossover points aren't necessary. You can now get the polarity and phase proper to achieve good summing.


More to follow regarding ARC guidelines.


----------



## rsnodgrass

If you have a SqueezeBox (even Transporter) why would you use balanced outputs instead of digital coax S/PDIF? Wouldn't you want to use the Anthem's DAC? Particularly if you have a D2?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/9126051
> 
> 
> The Squeezebox transporter has balanced out which I'm looking forward to using with the AVM50. It is expensive at $1999.00, but I'm thinking this will be a nice addition.


----------



## TREVLAN

For us AVM50 owners who are feeling a little jipped right now. I know I do as my AVM50 is 4 months old on the 26th of this month.

I have spoken to a reliable source and I asked about the AVM50 chances of an ARC version and was told "If there's enough demand (it's building) and the price is right (way too soon to say - the DSP would also have to change so it would cost considerably more than than the mic kit price"

So take it for what it's worth but, I ask that you other AVM50 owners out there to help put some demand out there for this. I know it won't be something soon but better then never.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/13593516
> 
> 
> For us AVM50 owners who are feeling a little jipped right now. I know I do as my AVM50 is 4 months old on the 26th of this month.
> 
> I have spoken to a reliable source and I asked about the AVM50 chances of an ARC version and was told "If there's enough demand (it's building) and the price is right (way too soon to say - the DSP would also have to change so it would cost considerably more than than the mic kit price"
> 
> So take it for what it's worth but, I ask that you other AVM50 owners out there to help put some demand out there for this. I know it won't be something soon but better then never.



Why do you feel jipped? I also have the AVM50, but don't feel jipped at all. In fact, for the price of the AVM50, it is a real bargain considering it's capabilities. It has been rumored for quite some time now (longer than the 4 months you've had your unit) that ARC was in the works for the D2. If Anthem offered the same features in the AVM50 that are in the D2, I'm sure D2 owners would feel jipped. They have to know they paid substantially more for something. Before ARC, those differences were IMO, subtle and not worth the extra money for my purposes. I think the addition of ARC to the D2is fair and now makes it worth the price difference.


If I were going to pay to have the additional processor etc installed to work with ARC, I would just upgrade to the D2.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/13592566
> 
> 
> I must raise my hand as a member of the "richard syndrome". I lower my head in shame. I'm a lot luckier though as it wasn't a blown speaker but just that the jumper was loose on my right front lower end. Am now running another calabration. I thought it sounded good before!



OMG, what have I started.










Surely we can come up with a better name.


As to the 5.1 setup posted by gtimbers, are you saying that using a tape measure isn't more accurate than listening for sync? Not for me it isn't that's for sure.


Also with regard to the cross over points, you lost me there a bit as well. If someone has a full bandwidth speakers they shouldn't take advantage of some of that extension? (my mains have 3 woofers each and can extend pretty low and they probably can't hold a candle to what some of these folks have).


Otherwise wouldn't we all just have really good monitors all around and more subs?


I trust that the algorithm that Anthem spent so much time on takes into account moving mixing crossovers and all the important stuff when doing its calculations.


I would think that the source while it may have been mixed a certain way (the 5 and the .1 of the 5.1 being selectively set), that the 5 part is just a continuous signal from whatever its floor is to its heights and where you split that between your 5 and your .1 is a function of how the arc interprets your system, room and speakers characteristics. I don't see how the original creation of the .1 factors in at that point.


If the 5 of the 5.1 was only 80Hz and above and the .1 was only 79Hz and below then I could maybe see speakers being designed specifically for that and we probably wouldn't even need cross overs at all in the processors.


Maybe I am trying to apply logic to an art and I am missing the boat.


Just trying to better understand some of the points which tend to go against my understandings (Such as they are).


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## BruiserG

So get this. Yesterday I got my ARC kit, ran it, and came up with the following results:


Fronts - 55Hz

Center - 160Hz

Surrounds - 80Hz

Sub - 75Hz


As I said, my Fronts and Center (and surrounds for that matter) are vitually the same speaker, only my center sits on a glass shelf underneath my TV instead of a dedicate stand. Anyway, I was extremely pleased with the improvements in detail, clarity, imaging, etc. Only thing was the center was a little light in the lows - especially noticible in low voices.


So, I updated my ARC with a center crossover of 140Hz. I liked the additional weight but noticed muddiness in the lower frequencies that I wasn't made aware of before ARC. What to do?


Well, today I made my own little sound treatment for my center. Basically, a rectangular peice of cardboard and some spray-can weather proofing foam all wrapped in a black curtain panel. stuck that behind the speaker. Also put a peice of weather proof foam stip under the speaker rather than the old pieces of material I had under there before. Re-ran ARC and viola!


Fronts - 55Hz

Center - 55Hz

Surrounds - 80Hz

Sub - 80Hz


Detail, crispness, imaging, AND depth in the front end. Sweet! You should see the difference in the Center graph. Before it took a nosedive below 160Hz, crossing 70db at about 100Hz. The new graph almost mimics the mains, all crossing 70db at about 35Hz or so.


----------



## gtimbers

Richard,


You may well have speakers that are well beyond the norm and for you, the simple rules may not be best. I happen to have 4-15" subs so they will always win out over any main channel below 80 Hz. I have done considerable experimentation with running the mains full range and only using the subs for the .1. Even with pretty heroic mains, the subs below 60 or 80 usually win out due to reduced intermodulation in the main amplifier channel and reduced modulation of midrange frequencies by the woofer section. Power amps sound greatly better when they are band-limited on the bottom end so when you add that into the mix, rolling off the mains can still be better even on really great mains. I have large 12" woofers in each main speaker and their response is painless down to below 30 Hz. Even ARC so indicates. My subs still kick their butt below 80 Hz and I get better imaging because my 3 front speakers have timbre and phase characteristics that match. (rears too, but that is a different story) Many people have different speakers for fronts, center and rears and most home speakers sold today are anything but big and robust. That is something that the use of a sub can really help.


As for the tape measure thing, I was trying to say that using pink noise, audibly, for the center works better than a mechanical measurement and that repositioning the center a few inches forward or back can give better time alignment than just accepting the 1/2 foot increments in the D2. I have also found it to be very easy to do with noise - much easier than with program material.


The most important part of my ramblings was to point out that (with your possible exception) it is extremely important that the timbre and phase of the 5 speakers be matched as closely as possible. Using wildly different crossover points to correct for placement, time or phase errors is not a good solution.


I do suspect that DVD movie sound tracks are mixed with the 5 main channels used full range. Only the effects are in the .1 channel. I doubt that most peoples systems can best handle things that way. I also know there are systems that can and I apologize to any of those owners whom I have confused.


ARC does a spectacular job of applying EQ to the individual channels. (sub excluded). With careful use of the system in the advanced mode, one can get 5 channels that match very closely and the greatly overlaped crossover frequencies that ARC often selects can be improved upon easily. The method is simple.


1. Run measurement mode being sure to use 3 - 5 mic positions. They should all be at the same height and very close to ear level.


2. Select reasonable target crossovers (80 Hz starting point). Select 4 dB of room gain. This number closely matches many years of experience in my design and measurement of loudspeakers. I do feel that the ARC target begins its climb for room gain too low in frequency (300 - 400Hz) and will result is a slightly thin sound overall, but it is not out of reason. I would start the climb at more like 800 Hz. This point is hotly debated by the loudspeaker auto EQ community.


3. The 5000 Hz upper limit is a very good starting point. One should not try to EQ above that to a flat line as in the ARC target


4. Calculate, and save the results.


5. Check that each of the target responses is approximately 4-5 dB down at the crossover point. This measurement is made relative to the highest point on the EQ'd curve. (around 120 Hz or so on the mains and center) When the polarity and phase are properly set, this will give essentially flat response through and around crossover. I have found that ARC seems to use 3 dB down for matching crossover frequencies. This will tend to give a bump at crossover (again assuming proper phase summing). 6 dB is the correct number, but since we are dealing with multiple measurements over an area, complete summing will not likely occur. This is my reason for selecting 4.5 dB. Simply spread the crossover points by 5 Hz at a time and recalculate until the desired acoustic crossover points are reached. I have found that 70 (sub) and 90 (LCR) usually is pretty close.


6. Do the upload. If a person has measurement equipment then setting the sub polarity and phase is pretty straight forward. If no equipment is available, doing it by ear is tougher and less precise, but not impossible.


My procedure is to put on pink noise. Interstation hiss is a little bass shy and may not work too well. Try both positions of the polarity setting and choose the one with the poorest sound. (biggest hole, less full, etc.) Now start moving through the phase settings. I usually do about 30 degrees at a time to quickly find the sweet spot. You are looking for the biggest hole at crossover. (Of course, for measurements you would have to use a realtime analyzer or swept sine wave with a SPL meter.) Once this spot is found, you can try the 5 degree increments to fine tune the result. Once the biggest hole is found, invert the polarity setting and the hole should fill up. During this process the distance setting for the sub can be brought into the mix to further fine tune the results. Be careful not to move the sub too far off of the mechanical measurement or you can end up one whole phase rotation off. I then put on some good thumpy music and fine tune the phase for most even response and freedom of boom or ringing.


Many people have only 1 subwoofer and it will generally have a different path length to the listening position than the front speakers. This means that there is no single setting that is correct. One can only kind of average the results to get a best over all. Positioning the sub or subs symmetrically with respect to the front speakers (path length difference to the listening position) will give the best summing, but may put the subs in lousy locations from a room mode standpoint.


It is worth trying to minimize the crossover frequency overlap since any major amount of overlap is just running one speaker against another. The ARC is using cancellation to even out the response in the listening area. This is like regulating your car speed by holding the gas on and applying varying amounts of braking. Sometimes things can't be totally in phase so some overlap is required, but with delay, phase and polarity adjustments available, it is possible to get a very nice clean job. The ARC can take care of matching all of the responses very nicely.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

gtimbers,

Interesting stuff! Why do you think ARC is setting up the default Room Gain Targets so low by default? And do you have any idea what the Forced check box does with that?

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

gtimbers,


Don't get me wrong, I am just trying to better understand what your saying.


I consider myself an HT enthusiast, but quite at the HT Rocket Scientist level that some of you here are at hahaa.


As for my speakers, I was trying to say that mine while having the "apparent" low end extension are not really anything special compared to what others here have to most likely theirs would be even better suited to lower end extensions.


I will read through your last post a few times. I have only run ARC once in Advance and even then I did no change any settings due to a lack of understanding of their effects on the results. More posts explaining some of this are most welcome in my book even if or especially if it generates discussion/debate and further testing tweaking so we all gain a better understanding (And by we, I at least mean ME).


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just a status update: I haven't changed anything since yesterday; just doing more critical listening.


I'm quite pleased indeed with the Music configuration. Bass and low midrange are distinctly improved from my hand tuned setup under V1.11. I suspect all the improvement is coming in the low mid-range where the Velodyne subwoofer's internal EQ had limited impact. The upshot is that the bass transition through the cross-over is MUCH improved, with excellent sound stage and naturalness. The high-midrange and treble are also improved. There is a feeling of spaciousness and openness to good recordings (bass guitar, bass fiddle, kettle drums, impact sounds of things being dropped, etc.)


To put it simply, I think the addition of ARC to my Music setup is a significant step up in quality and listening pleasure. Now keep in mind that my listening room is chock full of problems that can not be readily addressed by room treatment, so I've been hoping for just such magic from ARC. That is, I could probably get an equivalent improvement by taking my current setup and moving. But within this listening space I would judge the improvement (given my listening space) to be roughly in the class of doubling the amount of money spent on speakers and amps used in an acoustically superior listening room. It's that good.


And that's what I call a bargain.


And keep in mind that this is with the Velodyne's internal EQ stuff DISABLED! I.e., if I'd had ARC back when I got the Velodyne, and knew what I know now, I could have saved myself about 3 weeks of futzing with manual bass setup in the Velodyne!


----------------------------------------


I'm becoming increasingly convinced that the issue with my Center speaker in Movie configuration is due to poor content on certain Comcast broadcasts.


I've not yet found the problem on any SD-DVD movies (with due care for whether THX Re-Equalization is on). I still have to do some more experimentation with Comcast to see if the problem ONLY shows up in the Center speaker. That is, is the problem still there if I turn OFF the Center speaker (e.g., switch to Music configuration -- while still running the same audio mode -- so that the center channel of 5.1 stuff gets steered to the LF/RF speakers)? If it IS still there, then I can feel confident it is content.


If the problem goes AWAY when I have Center steered to the sides on the other hand, then I know it is my Center setup and I will have to explore that further (perhaps some audio treatment near the Center speaker). I don't think I have Richard Syndrome, but that's still to be confirmed.


If it turns out the problem is in the TV program content, then of course I'm not going to fiddle with ARC to try to eliminate it. As usual, tune your audio and video for best performance when fed GOOD content, and deal with poor content separately. I may try using the Treble control (for the first time since I got my D2) as temporary correction during such broadcasts.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34

I want to thank the member in here whom helped me get my arc. I ran it successfully today! I did want to ask you all in here of a problem I have been having since I aquired the unit. It is a d1 upgraded to d2 or a d1-hd. I have a problem when I run video to my upstairs tv in zone 2 via component. It will work fine as long as I dont power on the main zone, then it cuts out the video portion but not the sound portion in zone 2. Until recently If I power cycled the unit down I could get video back, however that has since not helped. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have been emailing Nick and the last response I got was oh you have a d1-hd that is a different story. So not sure if there is a difference and I cant have video in zone 2 or what the real deal is.


Thanks


Don


----------



## bluemark81

Is the information contained in this thread correct related to the Anthem pre/pros?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=940065 


In summary, they report the Anthem AVM40, 50 and D2 as 5.1 pre/pros (not 7.1) that will not support HDMI high bit rate audio codecs such as DTS MA and Dolby True HD. Am I misinterpreting what this thread is saying? I thought so long as you have a blueray player that can decode the audio codecs such as MA and True HD internally and output it as MPCM over HDMI to the Anthem, then the Anthems will support them uncompressed, even though it uses HDMI 1.1. Am I right or am I missing something here?


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13600277
> 
> 
> Is the information contained in this thread correct related to the Anthem pre/pros?
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=940065
> 
> 
> In summary, they report the Anthem AVM40, 50 and D2 as 5.1 pre/pros (not 7.1) that will not support HDMI high bit rate audio codecs such as DTS MA and Dolby True HD. Am I misinterpreting what this thread is saying? *I thought so long as you have a blueray player that can decode the audio codecs such as MA and True HD internally and output it as MPCM over HDMI to the Anthem, then the Anthems will support them uncompressed, even though it uses HDMI 1.1. Am I right or am I missing something here?*


*That was my understanding bluemark.
*


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13600456
> 
> *That was my understanding bluemark.
> *



Maybe Bob can offer his input here. I will submit a post correcting things. I definitely know I have a 7.1 setup, but as for the rest, I want to ensure I am correct first.


----------



## tngiloy

When you all are running the ARC-1 program do you have the D2 powered on before you start, or do you have it off ?

When I tried to run the ARC-1 calibration I started with the D2 off and it took 4 or 5 tries before it ran. I'm wondereing if the time it takes for the D2 to initialize was preventing the ARC-1 from being able to start. I re-read the instructions and it said nothing about starting the ARC-1 with the D2 on or off.

What have you all been doing?

I'm planning to rerun the ARC-1 calibrations again and would like to know if having the D2 on from the get-go works better, or if it is not recommended.

Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13600277
> 
> 
> Is the information contained in this thread correct related to the Anthem pre/pros?
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=940065
> 
> 
> In summary, they report the Anthem AVM40, 50 and D2 as 5.1 pre/pros (not 7.1) that will not support HDMI high bit rate audio codecs such as DTS MA and Dolby True HD. Am I misinterpreting what this thread is saying? I thought so long as you have a blueray player that can decode the audio codecs such as MA and True HD internally and output it as MPCM over HDMI to the Anthem, then the Anthems will support them uncompressed, even though it uses HDMI 1.1. Am I right or am I missing something here?



The Anthems are limited to 5.1 input over HDMI PCM. They will tell the player that. The Anthems will process 5.1 input up to 7.1 speaker output.


When the player decodes Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD MA to PCM it must decide what to do if the content is 7.1 instead of 5.1 (a limited number of discs). The player could discard the rear channel information (sending only the 5.1 channel subset), mix it into the surround channels (still sending 5.1, but the surrounds include rear channel info), or simply refuse to offer the option of playing the track that way in to the D2. As far as I know, players are currently taking the second option (rear surround information is mixed into side surround channels). This is actually happening in the decoding process.


Now there's only one player out there at the moment that decodes DTS-HD MA (the Denon 3800), so someone with one of those and a D2 or AVM-50 will have to confirm what that player does.


There are lots of players out there that decode Dolby TrueHD, but as I understand it there aren't very many 7.1 Dolby TrueHD discs. So someone with such a disc will have to confirm.


Keep in mind that the rear surround info is often embedded in the side surround info, so it should not be hard for the player to send a 5.1 PCM output stream from 7.1 content in a way that retains the info. But it is up to the player to do that when talking to a destination that is limited to 5.1 channels of HDMI PCM as is the D2 and the AVM-50.


We have LOTS of folks here using the D2 and AVM-50 with players that decode Dolby TrueHD. I suspect by now there are also a few Denon 3800 owners doing DTS-HD MA as well.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13600857
> 
> 
> When you all are running the ARC-1 program do you have the D2 powered on before you start, or do you have it off ?
> 
> When I tried to run the ARC-1 calibration I started with the D2 off and it took 4 or 5 tries before it ran. I'm wondereing if the time it takes for the D2 to initialize was preventing the ARC-1 from being able to start. I re-read the instructions and it said nothing about starting the ARC-1 with the D2 on or off.
> 
> What have you all been doing?
> 
> I'm planning to rerun the ARC-1 calibrations again and would like to know if having the D2 on from the get-go works better, or if it is not recommended.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



I start with my D2 off. When I start the ARC-1, I get a message within a few seconds saying that it found my D2 and shows me the serial number.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13600277
> 
> 
> Is the information contained in this thread correct related to the Anthem pre/pros?
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=940065
> 
> 
> In summary, they report the Anthem AVM40, 50 and D2 as 5.1 pre/pros (not 7.1) that will not support HDMI high bit rate audio codecs such as DTS MA and Dolby True HD. Am I misinterpreting what this thread is saying? Am I right or am I missing something here?



You are. This thread is related to 7.1 "native" support.

The D2 obviously supports high bit-rate multi-channel PCM data via HDMI.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/13600189
> 
> 
> I want to thank the member in here whom helped me get my arc. I ran it successfully today! I did want to ask you all in here of a problem I have been having since I aquired the unit. It is a d1 upgraded to d2 or a d1-hd. I have a problem when I run video to my upstairs tv in zone 2 via component. It will work fine as long as I dont power on the main zone, then it cuts out the video portion but not the sound portion in zone 2. Until recently If I power cycled the unit down I could get video back, however that has since not helped. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have been emailing Nick and the last response I got was oh you have a d1-hd that is a different story. So not sure if there is a difference and I cant have video in zone 2 or what the real deal is.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Don



The only reason Zone 2 Component video SHOULD cut out is if the source is HDMI. Due to HDMI copy protection, Zone 2 needs a Component source input.


In addition, if Zone 2's Component video is a copy of PROCESSED Component video going through the Main path, you might also have problems if the Video Output settings you use for the Main path put out a Component video signal that your Zone 2 display can't handle (e.g, 1080p/ 24fps).


You can get Component video into Zone 2 by setting it so it can select its own Component source input independent of the Main path's source selection (this will be UNprocessed video), or by setting it to use Component video Copied from the Main path (which basically means you are making your source selection on the Main path and it is applying to Zone 2 as well).


If the Main path is sending Component video from the source to the scaler, then you can set up this copying so that Zone 2 also sees the processed output from the scaler -- which must be identical to what the Main display is seeing since there is only one scaler producing one processed Video Output configuration.


Or you can setup Zone 2 to get the UNprocessed Component input going into the Main path -- i.e., whatever the source is sending in is what Zone 2 sends out.


But if you want to scale HDMI input through the Main path, then to get Component input to Zone 2 you need a Main path source which is willing to have both styles of output live simultaneously OR you need to select a different Component source for the Zone 2 path. And if you are Copying video from Main to Zone 2, then you must also set Zone 2 to use the UNprocessed video from the Component cables of the HDMI device selected for the Main path -- again because you are processing HDMI for the main path and HDMI copy protection doesn't allow Component output of that.


If you are following these guidelines and are still losing Zone 2 video unexpectedly, then you have a bug in your unit. There is no difference between the D2 and the D1-HD in this regard.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13600857
> 
> 
> When you all are running the ARC-1 program do you have the D2 powered on before you start, or do you have it off ?
> 
> When I tried to run the ARC-1 calibration I started with the D2 off and it took 4 or 5 tries before it ran. I'm wondereing if the time it takes for the D2 to initialize was preventing the ARC-1 from being able to start. I re-read the instructions and it said nothing about starting the ARC-1 with the D2 on or off.
> 
> What have you all been doing?
> 
> I'm planning to rerun the ARC-1 calibrations again and would like to know if having the D2 on from the get-go works better, or if it is not recommended.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



It doesn't matter whether the D2 is on or off to begin. The ARC will turn it on as necessary and reconfigure it to run the measurement.


ARC can detect the unit on the other end of the serial cable whether or not it is powered on (presuming the back panel power switch is on).


Are you saying that you turned on the D2 and then started ARC without waiting for the D2 to finish powering up? I suppose it is possible that ARC is blocked WHILE the D2 is powering up, but if it is Off, or if it has finished powering on, ARC should be fine either way.


If ARC is having troubles detecting a unit which is Off or completely powered on then the most likely explanation is that your serial connection is not good.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34

Thanks Bob,

I have HDMI in main zone only to my blu ray player and dvd player. I am trying to use zone 2 via component for another dvd player. I do believe there may indeed be a bug as I have put in all the settings as Nick has suggested, I just dont know where to go from here.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/13601142
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> I have HDMI in main zone only to my blu ray player and dvd player. I am trying to use zone 2 via component for another dvd player. I do believe there may indeed be a bug as I have put in all the settings as Nick has suggested, I just dont know where to go from here.



What version of software are you running? V1.30 fixed a bug related to activating Zone 2 Component video output.


ETA: If you just updated the software to V1.31, have you tried your Zone 2 video again since then?

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

Hahaa Bob,


I was just about to make a joke about checking if all your drivers were working when I saw this next line


' "I don't think I have Richard Syndrome, but that's still to be confirmed." '


DOH










Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Milt99

Has anyone on the West Coast received their ARC-1 yet?

gdc, any word from Definitive?

I ordered mine the day Jim E. posted the availability, March 12th.

No joy yet although it has been interesting reading the experience of others.


Does anyone here have experience with the Audyssey(sp?) software as well as ARC?

It would be interesting, to me anyway, to see if one is more sophisticated than the other, etc.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13601003
> 
> 
> You are. This thread is related to 7.1 "native" support.
> 
> The D2 obviously supports high bit-rate multi-channel PCM data via HDMI.



So, if I understand what you and Bob are saying:


The fact that our Anthems will not accept a 7.1 PCM signal is not a big deal since there are very few disks that are encoded with 7.1. For those disks that are, only 5.1 channels of uncompressed PCM will be transferred to the Anthem where it can extract information for the two rear channels, we think.


....and this is also true of the high bit rate codecs such as DTS MA and Dolby True HD.


The reason I am trying to figure all this out is that I am researching blueray disk players and I don't want to unnecessarily get more than I need if the Anthem can't use it.


So, is there any benefit in waiting for the newer players capable of internally decoding DTS MA and Dolby True HD into PCM?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13601599
> 
> 
> So, is there any benefit in waiting for the newer players capable of internally decoding DTS MA and Dolby True HD into PCM?



Absolutely! That's PRECISELY what you need.


The high bandwidth audio on Blu-Ray discs is available in three "lossless" formats that will work with the D2 or AVM50:


1) Raw PCM tracks. These just get transferred over to the Anthem.


2) DTS-HD MA tracks. These MUST be decoded to PCM in the player, otherwise all you will hear is the lower quality, lossy, "core" track (essentially, traditional DTS as found on SD-DVDs).


3) Dolby TrueHD tracks. These MUST be decoded to PCM in the player, otherwise all you will hear is the lower quality, lossy, "associated" track (essentially, traditional Dolby Digital 5.1 as found on SD-DVDs).


Some discs have an intermediate quality, lossy format. Not as good as the above 3 but better than traditional DTS or DD 5.1. These are DTS-HD HR and Dolby Digital Plus (DD+). These TOO must be decoded in the player to PCM, otherwise all you will hear is the lower quality, lossy, "core" or "associated" track.


And finally, for ultimate compatibility, discs will ALSO have traditional DD 5.1 or DTS on them. THESE tracks (which also provide the "core" or "associated" compatibility tracks mentioned above) can be sent over HDMI or optical or coax digital audio cabling as undecoded "bitstreams" for decoding in the Anthem. This is how SD-DVDs work today for example.


------------------------------------


What you CAN'T do with the Anthems is to send DTS-HD MA, Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD HR, or DD+ as undecoded "bitstreams" to the D2 for decoding in the D2. These formats HAVE TO BE decoded in the player or all you will hear is the lower quality "core" or "compatibility" track.


Traditional DD 5.1 and DTS still get sent to the Anthem as "bitstreams" for decoding in the Anthem. And players can be configured to automatically switch to sending "bitstreams" for these or to sending PCM (raw or decoded from the track's bitstream) for the higher quality formats.


--------------------------------------


I'm not going to discuss HD-DVD players.


Blu-Ray players are all over the map on what they do with these formats, and this is likely to continue for the balance of this year. Furthermore, some new players will need firmware updates AFTER they ship to enable some of the formats.


For example, the Denon 3800 properly decodes DTS-HD MA and Dolby TrueHD -- which means it is a good fit with the Anthems for playing those tracks. But it does NOT decode the LOWER quality intermediate formats DTS-HD HR and DD+. If you play tracks of those you only get traditional DTS or DD 5.1 instead.


Nobody knows for sure what the players that are about to ship will do. These would be the Panasonic BD50 and the Pioneer 05FD (and a Sony player slated for first shipment in the fall). But indications are that these too may ship with some of the decoding "missing -- to be added later" by firmware updates.


----------------------------------------


An added factor is the audio mixing that is supposed to happen inside the player when you enable "secondary" or "interactive" audio. The Denon 3800, for example, reverts DTS-HD MA and TrueHD tracks to DTS and DD5.1 (but decoded to PCM, not as bitstreams) if you turn on this mixing.


The mixed-in audio is lower quality, but that's still no good reason for Denon to have cut this particular corner. And the reduction to lossy audio happens even if you are playing a disc THAT HAS NO secondary or interactive audio, or you haven't turned on the disc features that use them! So you have your choice of losing full lossless audio quality or missing out on secondary/interactive audio. And you have to remember to make a manual setting change to alter that each time.


[NOTE: Folks using other AVRs that DO have decoders for the lossless bitstreams can't get this interactive audio that way either. The mixing has to happen in the player, and that means the player has to be set to decode, and that means -- in the case of the Denon 3800 -- that the player will only let you hear the lossy audio for the primary audio tracks.]


--------------------------------


Finally all of this is distinct from yet ANOTHER change that's happening right now in Blu-Ray -- the transition from player profile 1.1 to player profile 2.0 (and discs that take advantage of that).


Profile 2.0 enables internet based interactivity.


----------------------------------


If you don't care about DTS-HD MA (i.e., if you are willing to limit your purchases to discs with TrueHD or raw PCM tracks as their primary tracks), then you have several player choices right now.


If you DO care about DTS-HD MA, then ONLY the Denon 3800 is available right now. The Panasonic BD50 and Pioneer 05FD are coming in the next couple months, and Sony's player will be out in the fall.


If you care about profile 2.0 then ONLY the Sony PS3 provides that today. The Panasonic BD50 is supposed to have it as well. The Pioneer 05FD is supposed to NOT have it. And the Denon 3800 and Pioneer 05FD *CAN'T* be upgraded to add it since neither of them includes an ethernet port.


The point is, the Anthem D2 or AVM50 are, as they have long been, the right place for you to be. It's just the dang Blu-ray players that are still playing catch-up.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




Milt99 said:


> Has anyone on the West Coast received their ARC-1 yet?
> 
> gdc, any word from Definitive?
> 
> I ordered mine the day Jim E. posted the availability, March 12th.
> 
> No joy yet although it has been interesting reading the experience of others.
> 
> QUOTE]I have not heard back from my sales person. I pinged him last week. There is another person here in Kirkland that also has it on order through Definitive.
> 
> 
> I gave my information to them on Feb 12th - eight weeks ago!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should be the first person in the Seattle area to get the ARC.
> 
> 
> Anyone in California get the ARC yet?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13601828
> 
> 
> Absolutely! That's PRECISELY what you need.
> 
> 
> The high bandwidth audio on Blu-Ray discs is available in three "lossless" formats that will work with the D2 or AVM50:
> 
> 
> 1) Raw PCM tracks. These just get transferred over to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> 2) DTS-HD MA tracks. These MUST be decoded to PCM in the player, otherwise all you will hear is the lower quality, lossy, "core" track (essentially, traditional DTS as found on SD-DVDs).
> 
> 
> 3) Dolby TrueHD tracks. These MUST be decoded to PCM in the player, otherwise all you will hear is the lower quality, lossy, "associated" track (essentially, traditional Dolby Digital 5.1 as found on SD-DVDs).
> 
> 
> Some discs have an intermediate quality, lossy format. Not as good as the above 3 but better than traditional DTS or DD 5.1. These are DTS-HD HR and Dolby Digital Plus (DD+). These TOO must be decoded in the player to PCM, otherwise all you will hear is the lower quality, lossy, "core" or "associated" track.
> 
> 
> And finally, for ultimate compatibility, discs will ALSO have traditional DD 5.1 or DTS on them. THESE tracks (which also provide the "core" or "associated" compatibility tracks mentioned above) can be sent over HDMI or optical or coax digital audio cabling as undecoded "bitstreams" for decoding in the Anthem. This is how SD-DVDs work today for example.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> What you CAN'T do with the Anthems is to send DTS-HD MA, Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD HR, or DD+ as undecoded "bitstreams" to the D2 for decoding in the D2. These formats HAVE TO BE decoded in the player or all you will hear is the lower quality "core" or "compatibility" track.
> 
> 
> Traditional DD 5.1 and DTS still get sent to the Anthem as "bitstreams" for decoding in the Anthem. And players can be configured to automatically switch to sending "bitstreams" for these or to sending PCM (raw or decoded from the track's bitstream) for the higher quality formats.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I'm not going to discuss HD-DVD players.
> 
> 
> Blu-Ray players are all over the map on what they do with these formats, and this is likely to continue for the balance of this year. Furthermore, some new players will need firmware updates AFTER they ship to enable some of the formats.
> 
> 
> For example, the Denon 3800 properly decodes DTS-HD MA and Dolby TrueHD -- which means it is a good fit with the Anthems for playing those tracks. But it does NOT decode the LOWER quality intermediate formats DTS-HD HR and DD+. If you play tracks of those you only get traditional DTS or DD 5.1 instead.
> 
> 
> Nobody knows for sure what the players that are about to ship will do. These would be the Panasonic BD50 and the Pioneer 05FD (and a Sony player slated for first shipment in the fall). But indications are that these too may ship with some of the decoding "missing -- to be added later" by firmware updates.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> An added factor is the audio mixing that is supposed to happen inside the player when you enable "secondary" or "interactive" audio. The Denon 3800, for example, reverts DTS-HD MA and TrueHD tracks to DTS and DD5.1 (but decoded to PCM, not as bitstreams) if you turn on this mixing.
> 
> 
> The mixed-in audio is lower quality, but that's still no good reason for Denon to have cut this particular corner. And the reduction to lossy audio happens even if you are playing a disc THAT HAS NO secondary or interactive audio, or you haven't turned on the disc features that use them! So you have your choice of losing full lossless audio quality or missing out on secondary/interactive audio. And you have to remember to make a manual setting change to alter that each time.
> 
> 
> [NOTE: Folks using other AVRs that DO have decoders for the lossless bitstreams can't get this interactive audio that way either. The mixing has to happen in the player, and that means the player has to be set to decode, and that means -- in the case of the Denon 3800 -- that the player will only let you hear the lossy audio for the primary audio tracks.]
> 
> 
> --------------------------------
> 
> 
> Finally all of this is distinct from yet ANOTHER change that's happening right now in Blu-Ray -- the transition from player profile 1.1 to player profile 2.0 (and discs that take advantage of that).
> 
> 
> Profile 2.0 enables internet based interactivity.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you don't care about DTS-HD MA (i.e., if you are willing to limit your purchases to discs with TrueHD or raw PCM tracks as their primary tracks), then you have several player choices right now.
> 
> 
> If you DO care about DTS-HD MA, then ONLY the Denon 3800 is available right now. The Panasonic BD50 and Pioneer 05FD are coming in the next couple months, and Sony's player will be out in the fall.
> 
> 
> If you care about profile 2.0 then ONLY the Sony PS3 provides that today. The Panasonic BD50 is supposed to have it as well. The Pioneer 05FD is supposed to NOT have it. And the Denon 3800 and Pioneer 05FD *CAN'T* be upgraded to add it since neither of them includes an ethernet port.
> 
> 
> The point is, the Anthem D2 or AVM50 are, as they have long been, the right place for you to be. It's just the dang Blu-ray players that are still playing catch-up.
> 
> --Bob




Great explanation Bob! Thanks!


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13601828
> 
> 
> Absolutely! That's PRECISELY what you need.
> 
> 
> The high bandwidth audio on Blu-Ray discs is available in three "lossless" formats that will work with the D2 or AVM50:
> 
> 
> 1) Raw PCM tracks. These just get transferred over to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> 2) DTS-HD MA tracks. These MUST be decoded to PCM in the player, otherwise all you will hear is the lower quality, lossy, "core" track (essentially, traditional DTS as found on SD-DVDs).
> 
> 
> 3) Dolby TrueHD tracks. These MUST be decoded to PCM in the player, otherwise all you will hear is the lower quality, lossy, "associated" track (essentially, traditional Dolby Digital 5.1 as found on SD-DVDs).
> 
> 
> Some discs have an intermediate quality, lossy format. Not as good as the above 3 but better than traditional DTS or DD 5.1. These are DTS-HD HR and Dolby Digital Plus (DD+). These TOO must be decoded in the player to PCM, otherwise all you will hear is the lower quality, lossy, "core" or "associated" track.
> 
> 
> And finally, for ultimate compatibility, discs will ALSO have traditional DD 5.1 or DTS on them. THESE tracks (which also provide the "core" or "associated" compatibility tracks mentioned above) can be sent over HDMI or optical or coax digital audio cabling as undecoded "bitstreams" for decoding in the Anthem. This is how SD-DVDs work today for example.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> What you CAN'T do with the Anthems is to send DTS-HD MA, Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD HR, or DD+ as undecoded "bitstreams" to the D2 for decoding in the D2. These formats HAVE TO BE decoded in the player or all you will hear is the lower quality "core" or "compatibility" track.
> 
> 
> Traditional DD 5.1 and DTS still get sent to the Anthem as "bitstreams" for decoding in the Anthem. And players can be configured to automatically switch to sending "bitstreams" for these or to sending PCM (raw or decoded from the track's bitstream) for the higher quality formats.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I'm not going to discuss HD-DVD players.
> 
> 
> Blu-Ray players are all over the map on what they do with these formats, and this is likely to continue for the balance of this year. Furthermore, some new players will need firmware updates AFTER they ship to enable some of the formats.
> 
> 
> For example, the Denon 3800 properly decodes DTS-HD MA and Dolby TrueHD -- which means it is a good fit with the Anthems for playing those tracks. But it does NOT decode the LOWER quality intermediate formats DTS-HD HR and DD+. If you play tracks of those you only get traditional DTS or DD 5.1 instead.
> 
> 
> Nobody knows for sure what the players that are about to ship will do. These would be the Panasonic BD50 and the Pioneer 05FD (and a Sony player slated for first shipment in the fall). But indications are that these too may ship with some of the decoding "missing -- to be added later" by firmware updates.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> An added factor is the audio mixing that is supposed to happen inside the player when you enable "secondary" or "interactive" audio. The Denon 3800, for example, reverts DTS-HD MA and TrueHD tracks to DTS and DD5.1 (but decoded to PCM, not as bitstreams) if you turn on this mixing.
> 
> 
> The mixed-in audio is lower quality, but that's still no good reason for Denon to have cut this particular corner. And the reduction to lossy audio happens even if you are playing a disc THAT HAS NO secondary or interactive audio, or you haven't turned on the disc features that use them! So you have your choice of losing full lossless audio quality or missing out on secondary/interactive audio. And you have to remember to make a manual setting change to alter that each time.
> 
> 
> [NOTE: Folks using other AVRs that DO have decoders for the lossless bitstreams can't get this interactive audio that way either. The mixing has to happen in the player, and that means the player has to be set to decode, and that means -- in the case of the Denon 3800 -- that the player will only let you hear the lossy audio for the primary audio tracks.]
> 
> 
> --------------------------------
> 
> 
> Finally all of this is distinct from yet ANOTHER change that's happening right now in Blu-Ray -- the transition from player profile 1.1 to player profile 2.0 (and discs that take advantage of that).
> 
> 
> Profile 2.0 enables internet based interactivity.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you don't care about DTS-HD MA (i.e., if you are willing to limit your purchases to discs with TrueHD or raw PCM tracks as their primary tracks), then you have several player choices right now.
> 
> 
> If you DO care about DTS-HD MA, then ONLY the Denon 3800 is available right now. The Panasonic BD50 and Pioneer 05FD are coming in the next couple months, and Sony's player will be out in the fall.
> 
> 
> If you care about profile 2.0 then ONLY the Sony PS3 provides that today. The Panasonic BD50 is supposed to have it as well. The Pioneer 05FD is supposed to NOT have it. And the Denon 3800 and Pioneer 05FD *CAN'T* be upgraded to add it since neither of them includes an ethernet port.
> 
> 
> The point is, the Anthem D2 or AVM50 are, as they have long been, the right place for you to be. It's just the dang Blu-ray players that are still playing catch-up.
> 
> --Bob



You forgot to point out that the increasing number of 7-channel sound tracks on BD's can't be played on the D2 without dropping 2 of the channels.


You can argue about the value of these additional 2 channels, but bottom line is the D2 can not receive more than 6-channels over HDMI (or analog). It's the only reason I'm not buying one up right away.


I hope they come out with a D2.5 soon, as I like everything else about it.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13602165
> 
> 
> You forgot to point out that the increasing number of 7-channel sound tracks on BD's can't be played on the D2 without dropping 2 of the channels.
> 
> 
> You can argue about the value of these additional 2 channels, but bottom line is the D2 can not receive more than 6-channels over HDMI (or analog). It's the only reason I'm not buying one up right away.
> 
> 
> I hope they come out with a D2.5 soon, as I like everything else about it.



Won't it just take information from the surround channels to use in the rear channels much the way it does with any 5.1 signal so long as we have EX or ES selected?


----------



## RROSEN

If by growing you mean that there are now a couple and a little while ago there where none (7.1 audio) then you are correct and there is a growing number.


I look at the 7.1 stuff as more marketing than anything else. Like Deep color etc.


Sure you will see a couple titles, but for the most part things will still be in 5.1.


Cinemas for one are not configured for 7.1 so few movies will be mastered/recorded for it. Who's to say that the 7.1 stuff we are seeing isn't just 2 extra channels pulled from the original 5.1 in a similar way as the D2 would do it anyway.


That said if there was a D2 7.1 version for the same price I would obviously get that just to be on the safe side. Would I pay $1000 more for it or give up all the positives in the D2 fro another processor NO WAY (At least not now and probably not for the next 2-3 years).


BR has much bigger things to address than a big push on 7.1 which would benefit about 5% (if that) of the home audience. With the push there seems to be on 3D I would expect BR to try and jump on that as a value add versus SD DVD since visuals are much easier for a much larger consumer base to see and appreciate.


With regards to DTS MA keep in mind if you choose to ignore it as an option you are basically shelving any Lossless Audio for FOX. For whatever reason, none of which I have been able to find, all of their disks use DTS MA (since inception) for the lossless track and most often there is no other option in English even so if you cannot Decode the DTS MA you get the DTS HD (about 1600kbs and still very good, but not lossless.


For the life of me I can't figure out why they would have done that when we are just now seeing players (under 1k) coming to market that can even process it lol.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. Bob are you sure that DTS HD and DD+ cannot be bitstreamed Optical/Coax? I am pretty sure it was HD DVD so maybe that is where I am confused if this is different for BR. Or of course I may just be remembering it wrong, but I seem to remember checking out 1586kbs on my AVM 20 prior to my upgrade last year.


----------



## bluemark81

When I loaded v1.31, I forgot to load my default settings first. What problems will this cause?


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13601595
> 
> 
> Has anyone on the West Coast received their ARC-1 yet?
> 
> gdc, any word from Definitive?
> 
> I ordered mine the day Jim E. posted the availability, March 12th.
> 
> No joy yet although it has been interesting reading the experience of others.
> 
> 
> Does anyone here have experience with the Audyssey(sp?) software as well as ARC?
> 
> It would be interesting, to me anyway, to see if one is more sophisticated than the other, etc.



I'm not on the west coast, but I ordered an ARC-1 today and my dealer said it would take 6 to 12 weeks to get it.







I'm going to have some serious EQ envy reading all the "ARC-1 is mahvelous" posts!


----------



## BruiserG




gdc said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13601595
> 
> 
> Has anyone on the West Coast received their ARC-1 yet?
> 
> gdc, any word from Definitive?
> 
> I ordered mine the day Jim E. posted the availability, March 12th.
> 
> No joy yet although it has been interesting reading the experience of others.
> 
> QUOTE]I have not heard back from my sales person. I pinged him last week. There is another person here in Kirkland that also has it on order through Definitive.
> 
> 
> I gave my information to them on Feb 12th - eight weeks ago!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should be the first person in the Seattle area to get the ARC.
> 
> 
> Anyone in California get the ARC yet?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. Got mine on Monday.
Click to expand...


----------



## RROSEN

By the way, I forgot to mention that when I was at Paradigm last week for my speaker, I asked if they were shipping lots of ARC-'1s and the guy said and I quote


"Oh Yeah!"


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## gtimbers

Bob,


I assume Anthem has programed the ARC to choose the lowest reasonable roll off points for the main speakers. I do not know why they did this, but I'm sure they have a good reason. I do not agree and I have done many setups proving that a good sub can easily outperform reasonable main speakers in the below 80 Hz range. It is not an issue however, since in the advanced mode one can chose the roll off point he wants.


I could not see the forced box doing anything major with respect to the target curves. Perhaps it has something to do with gain settings. I would have to load a bunch of test files to prove that and as long as it takes to upload a file, that won't be happening. I always reset the levels manually after an upload.


I would suggest that you go into advanced mode and play with things. You can immediately see what is going on and it is totally safe. You do not need to have the D2 connected.

Turn on ARC.

Select Advanced

Open the file that has what you think are your best measurements.

Save As - some new name.


You have now got a free file to screw with and your original one is safe. First hit the Target button. Change what you like and let it calculate. You will now see what the new targets will be. Hit Calculate and you will get the predicted results. If you like anything you see, Save it as a new name and it can be recalled and uploaded whenever you like. No harm - no foul.


I have attached a few files for your browsing pleasure. First is the difference between my sub using my external EQ and the ARC results. I have used no more than 4 dB of EQ at any frequency to get my results. This is a very moderate amount of EQ. My woofers are not internally powered so the external EQ is all that is in the loop. I am using the D2 to provide the high end roll off.


The next 2 pictures are of my suggested starting point for ARC. These settings will give very good results for a large range of loudspeakers assuming the subwoofer phase and polarity setup is done properly.


The final exhibit is the predicted In Room response of a speaker I am currently working on. The speaker is a dual 6" 3-way system of medium bass extension and sensitivity. It shows about a 4 dB lift. I have dozens of measurements like this of other speakers we do and all of them show similar low end gain. I think Anthem did a very nice job of selecting their lift curve. I would personally extend the lift out a few hundred Hz higher, but that is just an opinion. This graph comes from 72 anechoic measurements all around the speaker system. The curves are then combined based on an algorithm that assigns weighting to various off axis angles which reflect (literally) how the speaker will interact with the room walls ceiling and floor. We have had excellent correlation with the actual in-room measurements and the predicted ones below about 8 kHz.


I suppose I should mention that I work for JBL as Chief Systems Engineer. I have been with JBL for over 35 years. The D2 I just purchased is for my own personal pleasure. I am a hobbiest and have been so for about 45 years. I still get real enjoyment from this stuff. The D2 is a really nice piece of gear and I am enjoying it daily. This auto room EQ stuff is a real pain in the ass. There is no clear cut right answer so everybody is doing the best they can with current knowledge and technology. I think the compromises made in the Anthem are very respectable and they should yield very nice results for most people, particularly if you venture into the Advanced arena.


----------



## Bruceko

i ordered Arc from Definitive on Thursday and picked it up today.









Just kidding.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/13603281
> 
> 
> i ordered Arc from Definitive on Thursday and picked it up today.
> 
> Just kidding.



Why I oughta....










gtimbers,

thanks for joining the thread! I find your contributions highly informative. After I read your first post I took a peek at your profile and figured maybe you weren't full of it afterall









It's always a nice affirmation to have someone who knows what they're talking about appreciate Anthem gear rather than the usual schlubs like me who don't have the foggiest what terms like 4th order crossover or baffle-step compensation mean.


Here's my 2 cents on the whole 7.1 dealio, SFW.

About as important to me as deep color.

If people are really concerned about it the solution is easy, pick up an AVR or one of the Integra\\Onkyo products.

Maybe 7.1 will become a real factor sometime in the future but for the foreseeable future I just don't care.

The only thing less common than people with 7.x systems are 7.1 soundtracks. BTW, I have a 7.2 system.

As time goes on the D2 will inevitably lack newer features like bitstreaming and 7.1, but I think it's obvious that the D2 stands alone in features, flexibility and performance.

Fox and their DTS-MA crap is just typical of that company.

Knowing what paranoid tightasses they are, they have to be getting an accommodation from DTS to do this.

In all likelihood the hold up on the Panasonic 50 and the Sony 550 is DTS certification.

Read the DTS-bitstream "my drivers got all blowed up" thread for some neat reading.

If Anthem would just ship me my ARC, it would give my idle mind something to screw up rather than this thread.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtimbers* /forum/post/13603073
> 
> 
> I have attached a few files for your browsing pleasure. First is the difference between my sub using my external EQ and the ARC results. I have used no more than 4 dB of EQ at any frequency to get my results. This is a very moderate amount of EQ. My woofers are not internally powered so the external EQ is all that is in the loop. I am using the D2 to provide the high end roll off.
> 
> 
> The next 2 pictures are of my suggested starting point for ARC. These settings will give very good results for a large range of loudspeakers assuming the subwoofer phase and polarity setup is done properly.



Dynamite post Greg.

BTW, I noticed that your center speaker rolls off above 10k but your L,R and surrounds are flat all the way out.

Care to elucidate?


----------



## gtimbers

Milt,


I don't see a way to alter the HF portion of the target curves. Anthem has set them. I do not know why they chose to roll the top of the center down and not the other channels. On version 1.30 (ARC 1.0), all of the tops rolled down, but 1.31(ARC 1.1) changed that. Fortunately it really doesn't matter as you shouldn't use the EQ much above 5 kHz. Therefore, your speakers response will be unchanged on the high end.


----------



## misterdoggy

The machine continues to shut down on startup but startup the second time it is asked to


So I have just included an extra step in my remotes macro to turn on the D2 *TWICE*


I don't know if thsi will be harmful to the machine or not but it works for now


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13602387
> 
> 
> If by growing you mean that there are now a couple and a little while ago there where none (7.1 audio) then you are correct and there is a growing number.
> 
> 
> I look at the 7.1 stuff as more marketing than anything else. Like Deep color etc.
> 
> 
> Sure you will see a couple titles, but for the most part things will still be in 5.1.
> 
> 
> Cinemas for one are not configured for 7.1 so few movies will be mastered/recorded for it. Who's to say that the 7.1 stuff we are seeing isn't just 2 extra channels pulled from the original 5.1 in a similar way as the D2 would do it anyway.
> 
> 
> That said if there was a D2 7.1 version for the same price I would obviously get that just to be on the safe side. Would I pay $1000 more for it or give up all the positives in the D2 fro another processor NO WAY (At least not now and probably not for the next 2-3 years).
> 
> 
> BR has much bigger things to address than a big push on 7.1 which would benefit about 5% (if that) of the home audience. With the push there seems to be on 3D I would expect BR to try and jump on that as a value add versus SD DVD since visuals are much easier for a much larger consumer base to see and appreciate.
> 
> 
> With regards to DTS MA keep in mind if you choose to ignore it as an option you are basically shelving any Lossless Audio for FOX. For whatever reason, none of which I have been able to find, all of their disks use DTS MA (since inception) for the lossless track and most often there is no other option in English even so if you cannot Decode the DTS MA you get the DTS HD (about 1600kbs and still very good, but not lossless.
> 
> 
> For the life of me I can't figure out why they would have done that when we are just now seeing players (under 1k) coming to market that can even process it lol.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> PS. Bob are you sure that DTS HD and DD+ cannot be bitstreamed Optical/Coax? I am pretty sure it was HD DVD so maybe that is where I am confused if this is different for BR. Or of course I may just be remembering it wrong, but I seem to remember checking out 1586kbs on my AVM 20 prior to my upgrade last year.



I am still confused with the Anthems only being able to input a 5.1 PCM from a Blueray, but it is clearly a 7.1 pre/pro. What is limiting it to only take 5.1 into it?


----------



## misterdoggy

Well guys,


As you know, I have been having problems with the D2 being sensitive to low voltage with a Step Down Transformer.


I am seriously thinking of selling my D2 in favor of a Meridian 861V4.


The benefits of the D2 against the Meridian are not much unless you can convince me differently (please anything from the peanut Gallery)


I thought HDMI was going to be great, but I use the component (not hdmi) on both and my Satellites send their audio signal using coax and toslink so there is no benefit there and Meridian is known for its sound.


Then The BD player already upscales to 1080p 24 and sends the audio LPCM or DD to the Meridian 861 and once again the Meridian probably out does the D2 in the sound arena.


Also the Meridian has Room Correction too.


I could send all my video signals direct to my Sony Bravia 52 inch and I am only losing out on my Satellites being converted from 1080i to 1080p.


I am afraid of the powering off everytime I turn it on is going to eventually damage something and the Meridian is a 230V machine.


looks like there is every reason to change ?


Any Feedback would be appreciated


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13604477
> 
> 
> Well guys,
> 
> 
> As you know, I have been having problems with the D2 being sensitive to low voltage with a Step Down Transformer.
> 
> 
> I am seriously thinking of selling my D2 in favor of a Meridian 861V4.
> 
> 
> The benefits of the D2 against the Meridian are not much unless you can convince me differently (please anything from the peanut Gallery)
> 
> 
> I thought HDMI was going to be great, but I use the component (not hdmi) on both and my Satellites send their audio signal using coax and toslink so there is no benefit there and Meridian is known for its sound.
> 
> 
> Then The BD player already upscales to 1080p 24 and sends the audio LPCM or DD to the Meridian 861 and once again the Meridian probably out does the D2 in the sound arena.
> 
> 
> Also the Meridian has Room Correction too.
> 
> 
> I could send all my video signals direct to my Sony Bravia 52 inch and I am only losing out on my Satellites being converted from 1080i to 1080p.
> 
> 
> I am afraid of the powering off everytime I turn it on is going to eventually damage something and the Meridian is a 230V machine.
> 
> 
> looks like there is every reason to change ?
> 
> 
> Any Feedback would be appreciated



I spoke to Anthem about the startup problem that I have also. They said they are aware of this problem that some people are having and are monitoring it, and will continue to work on it. They told me not to concern myself too much about it since they believe it is a software issue.

I believe this is true for my unit since the D2 says "Powering Off" when this happens. Also, it only happens maybe once out of every 50 times I turn the unit on.

Regarding the Meridian, I have not heard the unit, but would assume it would sound as good or better than the D2 on the digital side based on their reputation and technology. I would try it out as an analog preamp also to make sure it measures up (if that matters to you). The Meridian also does not seem to have any video processing or upconversion features at this time.

Also, since the Meridian does not have HDMI inputs yet, and you use the BD player to decode the new high resolution formats, you would have to use the analog connections for now (only the older DTS, DD, and 2-channel PCM can go through Coax/SPDIF digital connections). This would bypass the great D/A's in the Meridian and use the BD player's D/A's.


Are you certain that it is a low voltage problem on your end? Anthem told me that the D2 undervoltage protection is around 104V. What are you measuring at the step down output? I assume you have tried turning on the D2 by itself to see if it still happens. If it was an undervoltage problem, I would guess that it would turn off at other times (not just at startup).


Thanks,


Chan


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13604388
> 
> 
> I am still confused with the Anthems only being able to input a 5.1 PCM from a Blueray, but it is clearly a 7.1 pre/pro. What is limiting it to only take 5.1 into it?



It is a hardware limitation in the digital audio portion of the Anthem, not something that can be changed by software. The details don't really matter.

--Bob


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChantheMan* /forum/post/13605780
> 
> 
> I spoke to Anthem about the startup problem that I have also. They said they are aware of this problem that some people are having and are monitoring it, and will continue to work on it. They told me not to concern myself too much about it since they believe it is a software issue.
> 
> I believe this is true for my unit since the D2 says "Powering Off" when this happens. Also, it only happens maybe once out of every 50 times I turn the unit on.
> 
> 
> I would try it out as an analog preamp also to make sure it measures up (if that matters to you).
> 
> 
> Also, since the Meridian does not have HDMI inputs yet, and you use the BD player to decode the new high resolution formats, you would have to use the analog connections for now (only the older DTS, DD, and 2-channel PCM can go through Coax/SPDIF digital connections). This would bypass the great D/A's in the Meridian and use the BD player's D/A's.
> 
> 
> Are you certain that it is a low voltage problem on your end? Anthem told me that the D2 undervoltage protection is around 104V. What are you measuring at the step down output? I assume you have tried turning on the D2 by itself to see if it still happens. If it was an undervoltage problem, I would guess that it would turn off at other times (not just at startup).
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Chan



Chan,


I really don't know if its a undervoltage problem but I tried another stepdown transformer that I bought a HUGE sucker that did 5000w 20Amps that took anything from 176 to 230 and converted it to either 220V or 110V +/- 3V within 4 seconds (shorter than the startup) so it converted and regulated.


With this Converter/Regulator the power off happened many more times in a row than with my other step down transformer with the furman regulator attached. This leads me to believe more than ever it has more to do with electricity than software.


You know voltage is one thing but current is another. Like the size of a spout does not have have to do with the pressure of the water running thru it.


The Meridian can accept 5.1 analog which means I can send the lpcm signal to the Meridian this way or have the meridians superior DAC convert the 5.1 signal coming from the coax as well.


When I look at the meters controlling the current it always reads between 230 and 220 so it should be getting 110-115V, but I can't say about the current.


I am afraid that the continuing power off may eventually damage something and should sell it before that happens.


----------



## Joe C5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13606077
> 
> 
> Chan,
> 
> 
> I really don't know if its a undervoltage problem but I tried another stepdown transformer that I bought a HUGE sucker that did 5000w 20Amps that took anything from 176 to 230 and converted it to either 220V or 110V +/- 3V within 4 seconds (shorter than the startup) so it converted and regulated.
> 
> 
> With this Converter/Regulator the power off happened many more times in a row than with my other step down transformer with the furman regulator attached. This leads me to believe more than ever it has more to do with electricity than software.
> 
> 
> You know voltage is one thing but current is another. Like the size of a spout does not have have to do with the pressure of the water running thru it.
> 
> 
> The Meridian can accept 5.1 analog which means I can send the lpcm signal to the Meridian this way or have the meridians superior DAC convert the 5.1 signal coming from the coax as well.
> 
> 
> When I look at the meters controlling the current it always reads between 230 and 220 so it should be getting 110-115V, but I can't say about the current.
> 
> 
> I am afraid that the continuing power off may eventually damage something and should sell it before that happens.



I had the same problem with mine. However, in my case I think I know what the problem might be. Mine was running through a current sensing power strip which also turned on a couple of smallish amplifiers (two Sub amps and an eficient ICE amp). I tried it for a week not going through the power stirp and did not have the issue... YMMV. Just a food for thought.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

To give you an idea what fun it is to try to vet audio setups while watching cable TV, last night TBS-HD broadcast a DD 5.1 movie with the main speakers rotated left by one. The LF was carrying the center channel audio and the Center and LS were carrying the RF and LF channels respectively for example.


After some time doing that, the source signal glitched (like when the Mission Impossible people put the photograph in front of the security camera) and LF and RF were back where they were supposed to be. But now the center channel was coming out of the LS speaker.


It was actually pretty amusing.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13601163
> 
> 
> What version of software are you running? V1.30 fixed a bug related to activating Zone 2 Component video output.
> 
> 
> ETA: If you just updated the software to V1.31, have you tried your Zone 2 video again since then?
> 
> --Bob





Yes Bob I have V1.31 and have tried with no success in zone 2 for video. I only use HDMI for the main zone in my projector and my blu ray player (ps3). By the way did you see the new ps3 firmware they are coming out with 2.3 for dts-ma?


Thanks all for your input in this forum!!


----------



## goenkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/13606930
> 
> 
> By the way did you see the new ps3 firmware they are coming out with 2.3 for dts-ma?



Here is the link http://www.dtsonline.com/company/pre...cID=1&yID=2008


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe C5* /forum/post/13606760
> 
> 
> I had the same problem with mine. However, in my case I think I know what the problem might be. Mine was running through a current sensing power strip which also turned on a couple of smallish amplifiers (two Sub amps and an eficient ICE amp). I tried it for a week not going through the power stirp and did not have the issue... YMMV. Just a food for thought.



Joe,


I was talking with Piero and he thought it could be something other than voltage or current but something in the way of "harmonics" or waves or things that are in the current that the D2 doesn't like.


I can't avoid having a step down transformer (tried 2 different ones) and so there is no solution. I just bought a Meridian 861V4 and will put my D2 up for sale.


It is not possible to keep in Europe so If anyone wants a D2 nows the time to make me an offer ?


Its been short and not so sweet affair.... but Its not fair to judge the D2 by my experience as I should have bought a European Version 230V, but its the first machine that has been so sensitive to sine waves or stuff i don't understand in Electrical current.


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13606077
> 
> 
> Chan,
> 
> 
> I really don't know if its a undervoltage problem but I tried another stepdown transformer that I bought a HUGE sucker that did 5000w 20Amps that took anything from 176 to 230 and converted it to either 220V or 110V +/- 3V within 4 seconds (shorter than the startup) so it converted and regulated.
> 
> 
> With this Converter/Regulator the power off happened many more times in a row than with my other step down transformer with the furman regulator attached. This leads me to believe more than ever it has more to do with electricity than software.
> 
> 
> You know voltage is one thing but current is another. Like the size of a spout does not have have to do with the pressure of the water running thru it.
> 
> 
> The Meridian can accept 5.1 analog which means I can send the lpcm signal to the Meridian this way or have the meridians superior DAC convert the 5.1 signal coming from the coax as well.
> 
> 
> When I look at the meters controlling the current it always reads between 230 and 220 so it should be getting 110-115V, but I can't say about the current.
> 
> 
> I am afraid that the continuing power off may eventually damage something and should sell it before that happens.



I understand that current may be an issue, but if all you have connected to the step down transformer is the D2, I would be surprised that it is not getting the current it needs even at start-up. The D2 rated power is 170W, and the unit is fused internally at 1.5A.


I have pretty good electrical power, stable voltage, and have tried the D2 connected directly to the wall 20A circuit with nothing else on the circuit (and nothing else turning on) so I am pretty sure it is getting what it needs on the electrical side.


Regarding the Meridian, you would only be getting the older lossy formats through the Coax digital connection and not the newer lossless Surround formats (Dolby TrueHD, DTS MA, etc.).


If this is happening a lot, I guess I would sell it or send it to Anthem have it checked also.


Thanks,


Chan


----------



## Tim Winders

Bob -


Your "Richard Syndrome" comment was quite amusing.


I took my bad woofer to my dealer today. The confirmed that it was indeed dead. Then, as they were poking around a bit more, one of the wires to the speaker terminal broke off. Apparently there was a bad solder or something. They soldered the wire again, took measurements and everything looked great. Wu hoo! (No charge, by the way... I also checked when I purchased the speakers... 2001!)


I'll install it tonight, rerun the ARC software and post the results.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/13600189
> 
> 
> I want to thank the member in here whom helped me get my arc. I ran it successfully today! I did want to ask you all in here of a problem I have been having since I aquired the unit. It is a d1 upgraded to d2 or a d1-hd. I have a problem when I run video to my upstairs tv in zone 2 via component. It will work fine as long as I dont power on the main zone, then it cuts out the video portion but not the sound portion in zone 2. Until recently If I power cycled the unit down I could get video back, however that has since not helped. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have been emailing Nick and the last response I got was oh you have a d1-hd that is a different story. So not sure if there is a difference and I cant have video in zone 2 or what the real deal is.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Don



How is your 2nd zone set up? The D2 has to be set for pass through, and if you are using component in the 2nd zone, you have to feed the D2 a component input. In prior versions of the D2 firmware, on some pay stations I would get an HDCP error in Zone 2 using component with my Tivo S3 connected to my D2 via HDMI, component and S-video. However, that issue was corrected some time around v. 1.20 (the problem was that "pass-through" was not really passing through). I also have heard that some boxes do not simultaneously send signals over both HDMI and component video.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13602387
> 
> 
> If by growing you mean that there are now a couple and a little while ago there where none (7.1 audio) then you are correct and there is a growing number.
> 
> 
> I look at the 7.1 stuff as more marketing than anything else. Like Deep color etc.
> 
> 
> Sure you will see a couple titles, but for the most part things will still be in 5.1.
> 
> 
> .



Just fyi, there's a good article about 7.1 in Widescreen Review magazine this month.


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChantheMan* /forum/post/13608421
> 
> 
> Regarding the Meridian, you would only be getting the older lossy formats through the Coax digital connection and not the newer lossless Surround formats (Dolby TrueHD, DTS MA, etc.).
> 
> 
> If this is happening a lot, I guess I would sell it or send it to Anthem have it checked also.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Chan



Chan,


The Meridian has a 5.1 card so I can send LPCM signal to it.


It happens EVERY TIME I start up. So its scarry that something might happen eventually.


Its definitely a electrical issue because I tried another step down transformer and the problem happened ALL THE TIME. To the point it almost never turned on.


Meridian 861V4 can't be that lossy as it cost 4X as much as an Anthem can it ?


----------



## ASW

I have my D2 set to copy surround to rear. Does that setting affect the D2's ability to matrix 5.1 to 7.1 over HDMI from a PS3?


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13608671
> 
> 
> How is your 2nd zone set up? The D2 has to be set for pass through, and if you are using component in the 2nd zone, you have to feed the D2 a component input. In prior versions of the D2 firmware, on some pay stations I would get an HDCP error in Zone 2 using component with my Tivo S3 connected to my D2 via HDMI, component and S-video. However, that issue was corrected some time around v. 1.20 (the problem was that "pass-through" was not really passing through). I also have heard that some boxes do not simultaneously send signals over both HDMI and component video.



I am feeding zone 2 a component input as well as have it set at passthru. I have tried both my cable box and my dvd player with this set up and both produce the same problem. I have even unplugged my hdmi cable to see if that was indeed the problem perhaps and set up my main zone via component but I still get the same problem.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/13609834
> 
> 
> I am feeding zone 2 a component input as well as have it set at passthru. I have tried both my cable box and my dvd player with this set up and both produce the same problem. I have even unplugged my hdmi cable to see if that was indeed the problem perhaps and set up my main zone via component but I still get the same problem.



Did you try your main zone using component? How about zone 3? I wonder if you have a video board failure.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13609940
> 
> 
> Did you try your main zone using component? How about zone 3? I wonder if you have a video board failure.





I have not tried zone 3. Yes I have tried main zone with component and there is no problem in the main zone what so ever. Perhaps I should try zone 3 but still concerns me if zone 2 is out hmmm...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/13610227
> 
> 
> I have not tried zone 3. Yes I have tried main zone with component and there is no problem in the main zone what so ever. Perhaps I should try zone 3 but still concerns me if zone 2 is out hmmm...



It sounds to me like you are doing everything correctly, which means this is not a problem you can fix yourself.


I realize you are already in contact with Anthem tech support, but you should probably give them a call and explain that you are still having an issue here even after V1.31.


As I said in an earlier post, there was a bug fix in V1.30 that specifically addressed Zone 2 Component video output being muted incorrectly. They may not understand that you've already upgraded to V1.31 and are still having the problem.


Your problem might be hardware or software. They should be able give you some things to try to pin this down.

--Bob


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13609278
> 
> 
> Chan,
> 
> 
> The Meridian has a 5.1 card so I can send LPCM signal to it.
> 
> 
> It happens EVERY TIME I start up. So its scarry that something might happen eventually.
> 
> 
> Its definitely a electrical issue because I tried another step down transformer and the problem happened ALL THE TIME. To the point it almost never turned on.
> 
> 
> Meridian 861V4 can't be that lossy as it cost 4X as much as an Anthem can it ?



With "lossy" I was referring to the lossy Surround formats such as DTS and Dolby Digital. From what I understand, the newer lossless formats such as Dolby TrueHD and DTS MA can only be sent to a processor through HDMI. If Meridian has a way to accept Mulitchannel PCM through this 5.1 card (and it is not an HDMI connection), I would be interested to know how they do it.


Coax and SPDIF digital connections I don't think can handle more than 2-channel PCM.


Thanks,


Chan


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13591620
> 
> 
> Wow! Looks like I have the same problem as Richard.



OK! Got the woofer installed. Took my measurements. I don't feel so badly anymore.







The speakers still show a dip at 150Hz, though not as prevalent. Definitely room. I'll continue to move the speakers around and see what I come up with. If you look at the pictures from the post I quote above, you'll see the large dip in the Right Front speaker. Here is the current results:











I won't post the rears, but I found it quite amazing that the crossover settings for the fronts changed so dramatically, from 50 to 35!











Well, I guess that's it for tonight. I'm off to listen and play!


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChantheMan* /forum/post/13610602
> 
> 
> With "lossy" I was referring to the lossy Surround formats such as DTS and Dolby Digital. From what I understand, the newer lossless formats such as Dolby TrueHD and DTS MA can only be sent to a processor through HDMI. If Meridian has a way to accept Mulitchannel PCM through this 5.1 card (and it is not an HDMI connection), I would be interested to know how they do it.
> 
> 
> Coax and SPDIF digital connections I don't think can handle more than 2-channel PCM.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Chan



You can use the 5.1 Analogue connections for TrueHD and I assume DTS MA as well. At least you could for HD DVD and I guess this would also work for 7.1 if both sides had the connections.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. I personally would not buy a NON HDMI processor at this point in time. Especially if it cost 4x the D2










I will assume that is at least upgradable and you can add that functionality later. It's so pricey, that while I am aware of the brand, I have never checked out the model lol.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13608941
> 
> 
> Just fyi, there's a good article about 7.1 in Widescreen Review magazine this month.



And?


What's the spin? Do you have a link?


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13609453
> 
> 
> I have my D2 set to copy surround to rear. Does that setting affect the D2's ability to matrix 5.1 to 7.1 over HDMI from a PS3?



Good question. I don't know the answer. You might want to email Anthem tech support and see what they say.


If you are feeding DD 5.1 EX or DTS 5.1 ES to the Anthem then the Anthem knows there is rear speaker information in the bitstream and, as I read the manual, will extract that and send it to the rear speakers even though you have "Copy Surround to Rears" set. If you are sending straight DD 5.1 or DTS 5.1 to the Anthem, and you are doing a straight 5.1 audio mode, then there is no rear audio info and the audio for the surrounds will be duplicated to the rears (rather than the rears being silent). If you turn on a processing mode, e.g. PLIIx to raise 5.1 input to 7.1 output, again, as I read the manual, the D2 will send "real" rear info to the rear speakers instead of copying surround to rears.


When fed 5.1 HDMI PCM from the PS3, then, I believe Copy Surround to Rears will only ACTUALLY do that copying if your audio mode is straight 5.1. I.e., you haven't turned on PLIIx or NEO:6 or whatever to raise the 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output.


But I don't have a 7.1 setup, so this is conjecture on my part.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Since downloading v1.31, I notice some HD programs have a roughly 1" wide black bar across the top. This in itself wouldn't be so bad, but for 10" to 12" on the top left hand side , above the black bar is a thin white strip that flickers and is quite annoying. What is the remedy for this? My display is a 58" Panasonic plasma.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/13606930
> 
> 
> By the way did you see the new ps3 firmware they are coming out with 2.3 for dts-ma?



Yup. Ordered my PS3 today.

I have now come over to the Darkside.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13611368
> 
> 
> Yup. Ordered my PS3 today.
> 
> I have now come over to the Darkside.



Took you long enough!


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13611368
> 
> 
> Yup. Ordered my PS3 today.
> 
> I have now come over to the Darkside.



Gratz.


For us D2 (or AMV with HDMI) owners it really is an inexpensive no brainer for the time being.


With the PS3 we can enjoy the movies now, and relax while waiting to see which stand alone players (of the coming profile 2.0's) really stands out from a feature, performance and value perspective.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13611512
> 
> 
> Took you long enough!



Coming from you Rob, I'll take that as a compliment.









More like I've been assimilated into the collective.


After 3 HD DVD players, way too many discs and getting cut off at the knees by Netflix, the 2.3 firmware cinched it.

Seriously, I don't know how other CE companies can compete with the Playstation.

I was waiting for the BD50 but that won't be out for months now and will be ~$500 in my estimation. I got the PS3 for $299.

Anyway, while I'm waiting for ARC-1 to show up I can re-fill my Netflix queue.

Are there any decent films out on Blu-ray yet besides The Fifth Element and Little Man?


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13611146
> 
> 
> Since downloading v1.31, I notice some HD programs have a roughly 1" wide black bar across the top. This in itself wouldn't be so bad, but for 10" to 12" on the top left hand side , above the black bar is a thin white strip that flickers and is quite annoying. What is the remedy for this? My display is a 58" Panasonic plasma.



Get into the Video Source adjustment setup, go to Crop Input, and then select Edges On. You can set the number of pixels removed from the edges from 0 - 20. (On page 61 of the v. 1.31 manual.) This should take care of it.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13611632
> 
> 
> Coming from you Rob, I'll take that as a compliment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More like I've been assimilated into the collective.
> 
> 
> After 3 HD DVD players, way too many discs and getting cut off at the knees by Netflix, the 2.3 firmware cinched it.
> 
> Seriously, I don't know how other CE companies can compete with the Playstation.
> 
> I was waiting for the BD50 but that won't be out for months now and will be ~$500 in my estimation. I got the PS3 for $299.
> 
> Anyway, while I'm waiting for ARC-1 to show up I can re-fill my Netflix queue.
> 
> Are there any decent films out on Blu-ray yet besides The Fifth Element and Little Man?



Well I loved the Blu-ray of 'No Country for Old Men'. Fantastic cinematography and a very good movie. Also 'I Am Legend' is very well done. Just my opinion.


----------



## tngiloy

When uploading my settings from ARC-1 to my D2 the crossover level for the 'music' sub didn't load right. It was showing 'off' in the D2 set-up menu in 3B. I changed the crossover to the target level calculated in ARC-1, 100hz.

My question is - will the level I set in the D2 'speaker config- bass management music' be the settings used if 'room eq on' is set in the 'source set-up' , or will it use the incorrect cross-over that was uploaded by ARC-1?

In other words, does changing the settings in the 'speaker config' change the ARC-1 room eq settings?

I hope I phrased my questions so that you understand what I'm asking.

Tom


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13612749
> 
> 
> When uploading my settings from ARC-1 to my D2 the crossover level for the 'music' sub didn't load right. It was showing 'off' in the D2 set-up menu in 3B. I changed the crossover to the target level calculated in ARC-1, 100hz.
> 
> My question is - will the level I set in the D2 'speaker config- bass management music' be the settings used if 'room eq on' is set in the 'source set-up' , or will it use the incorrect cross-over that was uploaded by ARC-1?
> 
> In other words, does changing the settings in the 'speaker config' change the ARC-1 room eq settings?
> 
> I hope I phrased my questions so that you understand what I'm asking.
> 
> Tom



No, with room Eq = On, it will use its ARC settings in the background regardless of what is displayed. You need to make any changes in the ARC software, recalculate and reload it into the D2 (Coles notes version).


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13612749
> 
> 
> When uploading my settings from ARC-1 to my D2 the crossover level for the 'music' sub didn't load right. It was showing 'off' in the D2 set-up menu in 3B. I changed the crossover to the target level calculated in ARC-1, 100hz.
> 
> My question is - will the level I set in the D2 'speaker config- bass management music' be the settings used if 'room eq on' is set in the 'source set-up' , or will it use the incorrect cross-over that was uploaded by ARC-1?
> 
> In other words, does changing the settings in the 'speaker config' change the ARC-1 room eq settings?
> 
> I hope I phrased my questions so that you understand what I'm asking.
> 
> Tom



I don't believe changing the cross over manually will alter what ARC is using when Room EQ = ON is set. Which means if the ARC settings themselves (which you can't actually see) ALSO didn't transfer properly you will get incorrect ARC processed audio.


Try redoing the upload again. I also had better luck using a computer with a real serial port to do the upload.


Anthem is aware of reports like this that the upload process may not be properly verifying the uploaded data. Presumably this can be fixed in the Windows ARC application, once they figure out why the current verification stuff is missing such things.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13613077
> 
> 
> I don't believe changing the cross over manually will alter what ARC is using when Room EQ = ON is set. Which means if the ARC settings themselves (which you can't actually see) ALSO didn't transfer properly you will get incorrect ARC processed audio.
> 
> 
> Try redoing the upload again. I also had better luck using a computer with a real serial port to do the upload.
> 
> 
> Anthem is aware of reports like this that the upload process may not be properly verifying the uploaded data. Presumably this can be fixed in the Windows ARC application, once they figure out why the current verification stuff is missing such things.
> 
> --Bob



When I upgraded the firmware last week, I loaded v1.31a. I just upgraded again to v1.31. I was then able to upload the ARC-1 successfully. I don't know if the v1.31a was the problem, but so far its working better with the v1.31.

Its too late now to crank up and test the D2 as my wife is sleeping, but I'll test it tommorow. I may re-run the ARC-1 again tommorow. It seemed to get very different results each of the 4-5 times I ran it, even though the mic was positioned in approximately the same 5 positions each time.

Tom


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChantheMan* /forum/post/13610602
> 
> 
> With "lossy" I was referring to the lossy Surround formats such as DTS and Dolby Digital. From what I understand, the newer lossless formats such as Dolby TrueHD and DTS MA can only be sent to a processor through HDMI. If Meridian has a way to accept Mulitchannel PCM through this 5.1 card (and it is not an HDMI connection), I would be interested to know how they do it.
> 
> 
> Coax and SPDIF digital connections I don't think can handle more than 2-channel PCM.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Chan



Chan,


Just checked with Meridian and not only can I send out LPCM via 5.1 Analog to the Processor, but the processor changes it back to digital to be enhanced even more before sending the signal out Analog again. So you get all the benefits of LPCM and the enhancement of a Meridian 861 Processor.


This was good news indeed.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13613336
> 
> 
> Chan,
> 
> 
> Just checked with Meridian and not only can I send out LPCM via 5.1 Analog to the Processor, but the processor changes it back to digital to be enhanced even more before sending the signal out Analog again. So you get all the benefits of LPCM and the enhancement of a Meridian 861 Processor.
> 
> 
> This was good news indeed.



uh...Just about any decent processor or receiver will do that including the Anthem. Why would you expect the Meridian not to?


More importantly why is it a good thing going from a digital source to analog (LPCM is no longer LPCM if you output it as analog) back to digital? This is the very thing HDMI avoids. In the method you describe above you are at the mercy of the players DACs and its analog output stage. No matter how good the DACs and analog output stage of the Meridian is, and they are extremely good you are at the mercy of the player since it will likely not have the same quality as the Meridian.


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/13613435
> 
> 
> uh...Just about any decent processor or receiver will do that including the Anthem. Why would you expect the Meridian not to?
> 
> 
> More importantly why is it a good thing going from a digital source to analog (LPCM is no longer LPCM if you output it as analog) back to digital? This is the very thing HDMI avoids. In the method you describe above you are at the mercy of the players DACs and its analog output stage. No matter how good the DACs and analog output stage of the Meridian is, and they are extremely good you are at the mercy of the player since it will likely not have the same quality as the Meridian.



What I have understood is that even though the LPCM signal is passed thru HDMI it has already been decoded by the player and the signal is like analog to even the D2.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13610962
> 
> 
> And?
> 
> 
> What's the spin? Do you have a link?
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



And...you can find it on newsstands now. I don't have a link, I have the magazine. I'm not going to summarize it b/c some folks here get all bent out of shape whenever there's a discussion about the "limitations" of the D2 when it comes to 7.1. I'm personally using PLIIx and not worried about 7.1 discrete...


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13613623
> 
> 
> What I have understood is that even though the LPCM signal is passed thru HDMI it has already been decoded by the player and the signal is like analog to even the D2.



"Like analog" and going through multiple DAC's are two very different things...


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13613923
> 
> 
> "Like analog" and going through multiple DAC's are two very different things...



I spoke to Meridian again and he said they didn't prefer HDMI right now because the DSP that arrives from hdmi has jitter problems and HDMI has many problems in general not being stable.


I ran my Bluray into the D2 and sounded fine to me, but I had lots of HDMI issues with both audio and video with my satellites.


I would say HDMI is not an exact ARt yet, with all the handshake problems and other problems and could see why they think that way.


In any case my course is set as I bought the Meridian, because of the PowerOFF problem, which I am afraid might have consequences if it keeps doing it year after year protection shut down its scarry.


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13614131
> 
> 
> I spoke to Meridian again and he said they didn't prefer HDMI right now because the DSP that arrives from hdmi has jitter problems and HDMI has many problems in general not being stable.
> 
> 
> I ran my Bluray into the D2 and sounded fine to me, but I had lots of HDMI issues with both audio and video with my satellites.
> 
> 
> I would say HDMI is not an exact ARt yet, with all the handshake problems and other problems and could see why they think that way.
> 
> 
> In any case my course is set as I bought the Meridian, because of the PowerOFF problem, which I am afraid might have consequences if it keeps doing it year after year protection shut down its scarry.



Hopefully you will like the Meridian. I agree that HDMI is a little shaky right now but it is the best we have. I am guessing that Meridian is at least working on an HDMI upgrade for your processor.

I forgot to mention that Krell's Evolution 707 is out or will be out soon with HDMI Audio and Video processing. I am not sure if it is in the same price range as the Meridian, but with the currency exchange rate, I am guessing it would be close. The Krell has HDMI 1.3 and can receive all the high resolution audio signals as bitstream for decoding inside the Krell.


Thanks,


Chan


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13613336
> 
> 
> Chan,
> 
> 
> Just checked with Meridian and not only can I send out LPCM via 5.1 Analog to the Processor, but the processor changes it back to digital to be enhanced even more before sending the signal out Analog again. So you get all the benefits of LPCM and the enhancement of a Meridian 861 Processor.
> 
> 
> This was good news indeed.



When you do that, what you are hearing is the quality of the analog audio output stage of the PLAYER -- its Digital to Analog Converters, power supply, and related analog audio design. Analog cables don't carry LPCM. LPCM is a digital audio signal. The player has to convert LPCM to analog for output on analog cables.


This is a key factor in the quality of the audio.


The point is, if you want to use multi-channel analog connections, you should consider spending the money on a player with a superior analog audio output stage. The Denon 3800 is probably the best for that right now. Note that the PS3 for example, doesn't even have multi-channel analog audio outputs at all.


In addition, check HOW MANY sets of multi-channel analog audio inputs the AVR offers as that will limit how many sources devices you can conveniently connect that way simultaneously.


You won't be able to use multi-channel analog audio connections with your satellite receivers of course as they don't offer such outputs. But you don't have to use HDMI either. You can use Component for video and optical-digital cable for audio and get the full quality of the audio offered by these set top boxes. If your satellites are giving you fits with the D2 over HDMI, just use Component and Optical from them instead.


Finally, the ability to process multi-channel analog audio inputs -- something the D2 does as well -- means that the audio quality is also impacted by the quality of the re-digitizing stage (the analog input is converted BACK to digital before processing) and then the conversion back to analog again in the AVR for output to the speakers. So you need to investigate the quality of the re-digitizing in the AVR. The D2 upsamples its analog audio inputs to 192KHz, processes that, and then converts that back to analog for output.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13613623
> 
> 
> What I have understood is that even though the LPCM signal is passed thru HDMI it has already been decoded by the player and the signal is like analog to even the D2.



No, not at all.


LPCM is a digital audio signal. If you pass it to the D2 over HDMI then the D2 can process it directly.


If you want to use multi-channel analog connections instead, then the player has to convert the digital LPCM signal to analog audio.


This is an incredibly important factor in the resulting audio quality. Good quality digital to analog conversion is not cheap. It is not just the particular Digital to Analog Converter (DAC) chips that are used. It is the entire power and signal path engineering that eliminates noise, distortion and cross-talk between the channels.


One of the major reasons the Denon 3800 Blu-Ray player is so expensive, for example, is that they invested in a high quality analog audio output stage in that design.

--Bob


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13615486
> 
> 
> When you do that, what you are hearing is the quality of the analog audio output stage of the PLAYER -- its Digital to Analog Converters, power supply, and related analog audio design. Analog cables don't carry LPCM. LPCM is a digital audio signal. The player has to convert LPCM to analog for output on analog cables.
> 
> 
> This is a key factor in the quality of the audio.
> 
> 
> The point is, if you want to use multi-channel analog connections, you should consider spending the money on a player with a superior analog audio output stage. The Denon 3800 is probably the best for that right now. Note that the PS3 for example, doesn't even have multi-channel analog audio outputs at all.
> 
> 
> In addition, check HOW MANY sets of multi-channel analog audio inputs the AVR offers as that will limit how many sources devices you can conveniently connect that way simultaneously.
> 
> 
> You won't be able to use multi-channel analog audio connections with your satellite receivers of course as they don't offer such outputs. But you don't have to use HDMI either. You can use Component for video and optical-digital cable for audio and get the full quality of the audio offered by these set top boxes. If your satellites are giving you fits with the D2 over HDMI, just use Component and Optical from them instead.
> 
> 
> Finally, the ability to process multi-channel analog audio inputs -- something the D2 does as well -- means that the audio quality is also impacted by the quality of the re-digitizing stage (the analog input is converted BACK to digital before processing) and then the conversion back to analog again in the AVR for output to the speakers. So you need to investigate the quality of the re-digitizing in the AVR. The D2 upsamples its analog audio inputs to 192KHz, processes that, and then converts that back to analog for output.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


No question the Anthem is a Great Processor, but I would have to buy a 230V version which shoots the price up astronomically making the Meridian a competitor price wise. For the same money, I think the Meridian is a better value resale wise.


I will put the D2 up for sale and will be happy to get $5k for it while a used Meridian at the same cost here will resell for $9-$10k. So its also economics.


Its not a fair comparison either between a processor that upscales, upsamples and does all the great things that the D2 does against a Processor that is 3X or 4X the price for just doing Audio.


You would hope that the Audio portion has to be outstanding ???


If the Anthem would have worked without hiccups I wouldn't have changed.


By the Way I will upgrade to the 3800 when it comes out in Europe, but its not available yet.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Of course if the D2 isn't working out for you, you should replace it. I just wanted to make sure you understood that doing high bandwidth audio via multi-channel analog connections is not the same thing as doing it via HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13613260
> 
> 
> When I upgraded the firmware last week, I loaded v1.31a. I just upgraded again to v1.31. I was then able to upload the ARC-1 successfully. I don't know if the v1.31a was the problem, but so far its working better with the v1.31.
> 
> Its too late now to crank up and test the D2 as my wife is sleeping, but I'll test it tommorow. I may re-run the ARC-1 again tommorow. It seemed to get very different results each of the 4-5 times I ran it, even though the mic was positioned in approximately the same 5 positions each time.
> 
> Tom



I re-ran the ARC-1 again this morning and got a couple calibrations for the cross-overs that seemed out of line. I had been using the 5 mic positions in a pretty tight grouping, so I decided to move the mic positions for the 4 positions, other than the primary listening spot, in a less tight grouping and I got much more realistic crossover calibrations.

But when I went to upload the new measurements and settings to the D2 the speaker crossovers that were in the ARC-1 were not copying over properly to the D2. After tring to upload the ARC-1 program unsuccessfully a few more times I decided to change the usb port that the Keyspan usb/serial adapter was plugged into, to the other usb port on my notebook. This time it worked perfectly.

So, the two things I learned this morning were:

1) It seems that the calibration works better if you place the mic in a wider grouping after getting the 'main listening' first reading. Apparently as long as the first reading is done in the primary listening position, the other readings help the ARC-1 to find room anomolies, but the calibration is tailored for the primary listening position. I think Bob P. had problems with using the mic at different hieghts, so the mic position can be a little tricky, but too close a grouping definitly didn't work for me.

2)The usb port may make a difference. I know that the Anthem instructions say it must be connected to a comm port less than six. It is quite possible that the first port I tried to use was above six. Being a computer ignoramus, I couldn't find a way to assign the usb ports to a different comm# (if you could help me with this I'd appreciate it- I couldn't find anything in the Window's Help menu on this).

Any way, after some critical listening today I am very happy with the results from the ARC-1 calibrations. So pleased in fact that I am putting away the ARC-1 box in my closet. "If it ain't broke don't fix it."

I post these findings in the hope that some of you will be able to avoid the mistakes I made.

Tom


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13613719
> 
> 
> And...you can find it on newsstands now. I don't have a link, I have the magazine. I'm not going to summarize it b/c some folks here get all bent out of shape whenever there's a discussion about the "limitations" of the D2 when it comes to 7.1. I'm personally using PLIIx and not worried about 7.1 discrete...



No worries, wasn't trying to be difficult. I don't get the mag so was wondering.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. In any case I have yet to find one of these magazines (I subscribe to Home Theater and had Sound & Vision for a while) that isn't a slave to it's advertisers. So depending on which spin they put on it, it should be taken with a grain of salt. I sent an email to the editor of Home Theater once politely asking about what I perceived to be some bias in their coverage of something and I got back a scathing attack suggesting I cancel my membership if I didn't like it hahaa. Strangely, she no longer works there. I can't see why.


Actually I think they get a lot of them, cause to my surprise they actually published on in a recent issue and crucified that guy also hahaa. Must be nice to run a business where you can afford to attack you clientele ;-)


I enjoy the info, features and specs etc in these, but since almost everything they ever review gets positive reviews and is accompanied by 5 pages of ads for the same company how can you really take any of them all that serious. They reviewed a Sony receiver recently that had a ridiculous THD at various points OK, like 1% at 44 watts per channel which seemed pretty high to me comparably to the others I have seen) and in the column discussing the measurements discussed everything BUT that hahaa. Sony isn't by any means the only one getting this treatment, but it's the one I remember off the top of my head.


It's pretty much a large part of why I started checking out forums and found AVS. While every thread has their boosters, pundits and detractors, if your patient and apply some logic you can generally over time get a pretty good sense for a piece of equipment here. Eventually BS gets plowed under for the most part.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13616019
> 
> 
> I re-ran the ARC-1 again this morning and got a couple calibrations for the cross-overs that seemed out of line. I had been using the 5 mic positions in a pretty tight grouping, so I decided to move the mic positions for the 4 positions, other than the primary listening spot, in a less tight grouping and I got much more realistic crossover calibrations.
> 
> But when I went to upload the new measurements and settings to the D2 the speaker crossovers that were in the ARC-1 were not copying over properly to the D2. After tring to upload the ARC-1 program unsuccessfully a few more times I decided to change the usb port that the Keyspan usb/serial adapter was plugged into, to the other usb port on my notebook. This time it worked perfectly.
> 
> So, the two things I learned this morning were:
> 
> 1) It seems that the calibration works better if you place the mic in a wider grouping after getting the 'main listening' first reading. Apparently as long as the first reading is done in the primary listening position, the other readings help the ARC-1 to find room anomolies, but the calibration is tailored for the primary listening position. I think Bob P. had problems with using the mic at different hieghts, so the mic position can be a little tricky, but too close a grouping definitly didn't work for me.
> 
> 2)The usb port may make a difference. I know that the Anthem instructions say it must be connected to a comm port less than six. It is quite possible that the first port I tried to use was above six. Being a computer ignoramus, I couldn't find a way to assign the usb ports to a different comm# (if you could help me with this I'd appreciate it- I couldn't find anything in the Window's Help menu on this).
> 
> Any way, after some critical listening today I am very happy with the results from the ARC-1 calibrations. So pleased in fact that I am putting away the ARC-1 box in my closet. "If it ain't broke don't fix it."
> 
> I post these findings in the hope that some of you will be able to avoid the mistakes I made.
> 
> Tom



I doubt your problem was with COM port assignments. COM ports are the low level windows names for the Serial port connection itself. The Keyspan device driver assigns a COM port when it pretends to be a Serial port to the operating system. If the COM port name was above COM6, the connection shouldn't have worked at all -- i.e., ARC wouldn't have found the D2 to do the measurements, much less the upload.


However, it is quite likely indeed that using a different USB socket could have different results. In my testing, it also seems that you get more reliable uploads of the ARC results if you unplug the ARC microphone from its USB socket first.


USB sockets can vary in how much power they provide, and any other USB activity going on at the same time, e.g., a wired USB mouse or keyboard, can also affect performance.


It's certainly frustrating that these uploads are having problems, but the REAL nuisance here is that the ARC application is not properly detecting that the upload failed to transfer everything correctly. If Anthem can fix that, then at least we'd know that an upload was good -- even if it took several retries to make it happen.


-----------------------------------------


The ARC write up states that the various mic positions have to be at least a foot apart.


My latest measurements have the mic positions separated by 18 inches.


What was the spacing in your original close-packed arrangement and what did you change to?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem's going to try swapping out my video board to see if that fixes my problem with Video Source Adjust menu settings not surviving a power off/on cycle.


I'll be traveling till the end of the month so this will happen early in May.


-----------------------------------


I've come to the conclusion that the problem I had with excess sibilants in the Center speaker during some Comcast programming was, in fact, due to the audio being broadcast as opposed to something wrong that ARC was doing. The difference is that the speaker setup EQ'd with ARC reveals this bad content more than what I had before.


I've not found ANY problems like this in Center speaker content which is known to be good.


At this point I'd have to say I'm very pleased indeed with what ARC has achieved in both my Movie and Music configurations. As with any such change, I'll have to do more critical listening to see if there are any gotchas, but I haven't found any yet!


The key factors appear to be:


1) Keep the Target Top EQ Frequency setting no higher than the default 5 KHz. For my system, the cross over Targets automatically assigned by ARC appear to be working so I haven't tried any changes there before Calculating ARC's results.


2) Do all measurements at the same mic height (seated ear height). Space the mic positions at least 1 foot apart.


3) After measuring and calculating the results you want to upload, keep re-doing the upload until you find that the Setup menu items all appear to have transferred correctly (i.e., the Movie and Music crossover settings, and Speaker Calibration settings, including both Subwoofer volume settings if you have a separate Music configuration). At the moment, this appears to be the best bet to feel comfortable the upload completed correctly. Try disconnecting the ARC mic and any other USB devices before doing the Upload of ARC results.


4) Look carefully at the MEASURED ARC curves (run ARC in Advanced mode and Open your saved file produced either by Standard or Advanced mode) to see if you have anything unexpected from any of your speakers. Such a speaker could be malfunctioning, or might need to be repositioned a bit.


5) If you have an alternative bass EQ system, try running ARC with that other bass EQ system disabled. It may, in the end, turn out that you get better results with the other EQ system enabled, but the other EQ system may be playing havoc with your low mid-range that you haven't noticed up to now. If the ARC Calculated results for bass in all channels look good after measuring with the other EQ system disabled, then you should be good to go just that way -- which gives you one less thing to futz with as well.


ETA: Any cross over built into your Sub itself should be disabled, or if you can't do that it should be set to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. Let ARC in the D2 be in charge of cross over filtering. If your main speakers have response curve adjustments of any kind (including bass ports that need to be opened or closed for speakers near walls for example), you may need to do multiple ARC measurements to find which setting in those speakers produces the cleanest MEASURED results. Start with the speaker maker's recommendation for how to set up each speaker according to its actual positioning.


6) Speaker distance settings, main speaker polarity (wired correctly instead of the 2 wires being reversed on some speaker), and subwoofer Polarity and Phase, need to be set up manually. You can do the polarity and phase adjustments AFTER running ARC without having to re-run ARC measurements. The already calculated ARC results will "just work better" once you get your speakers' polarity and subwoofer phase correct.


7) And, of course, make sure that you turn on Room EQ in the Setup / Source Setup menu for each source after uploading your first ARC results.


ETA2: (8) Make sure to Save User Settings or Save Installer Settings after Uploading ARC results so that the speaker cross-over and volume stuff gets saved. The ARC results themselves are automatically saved (you have no control over this short of Uploading new ARC results). The stuff you are Saving here is the Setup menu settings that will apply for any source if you decide to turn off Room EQ for comparison. ARC modifies these to get a closer match between running with Room EQ On and Off. Changes you make to these Setup settings after Uploading ARC are supposed to ONLY affect the audio produced from sources with Room EQ = OFF. Sources with Room EQ = ON should continue to use the latest Uploaded ARC results regardless of any futzing you do in these Setup menu items after that.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13614131
> 
> 
> I spoke to Meridian again and he said they didn't prefer HDMI right now because the DSP that arrives from hdmi has jitter problems and HDMI has many problems in general not being stable.



You need to stop taking *BAD* *INACCURATE* advice from

a Meridian Dealer who is trying to sell you an *OBSOLETE*

piece of AV gear that costs 4 times more than the Anthem.


GOOD - Luck


----------



## DEHAAS

Hi,


I just checked the anthem support website. They have uploaded a firmware version 1.31b for the D2 and AVM-50. The changelog says:


v1.31b:


1. Start-up code change to address unintentional shutdown once bootup completes (potential fix)


2. Made changes to address various Vista and USB-serial adapter issues.


3. Added 'pass/fail' dialog when installation ends.


I have not tried the firmware yet, but I really hope the new startup code corrects the shutdown issue.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13615599
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> No question the Anthem is a Great Processor, but I would have to buy a 230V version which shoots the price up astronomically making the Meridian a competitor price wise. For the same money, I think the Meridian is a better value resale wise.
> 
> 
> I will put the D2 up for sale and will be happy to get $5k for it while a used Meridian at the same cost here will resell for $9-$10k. So its also economics.
> 
> 
> Its not a fair comparison either between a processor that upscales, upsamples and does all the great things that the D2 does against a Processor that is 3X or 4X the price for just doing Audio.
> 
> 
> You would hope that the Audio portion has to be outstanding ???
> 
> 
> If the Anthem would have worked without hiccups I wouldn't have changed.
> 
> 
> By the Way I will upgrade to the 3800 when it comes out in Europe, but its not available yet.




Your D2 is like 2 weeks old why not just return it? Surely shipping won't offset the difference between what you paid and what you could get used.


In any case, you may want to hang on to it until you see if you actually prefer the Meridian once you get it.


In any case, best of luck.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## tngiloy




Bob Pariseau;
-----------------------------------------
The ARC write up states that the various mic positions have to be at least a foot apart.
My latest measurements have the mic positions separated by 18 inches.
What was the spacing in your original close-packed arrangement and what did you change to?
--Bob[/QUOTE said:


> The mic positions were at most a foot apart and I duplicated the same positions for both movie and music ARC-1 runs. After re-reading the instructions (when all else fails, read the intructions) I saw that Anthem suggested at least a foot, so I moved the mic probably 2 feet each time. I still kept it in a fairly tight grouping, but much looser than the first few runs.
> 
> Thanks for the 'unplug the mic' suggestion. In the process of changing the usb connection I did unplug the mic, so that could very well have been what fixed it.
> 
> I see in another post that Anthem released a new software version that seems to adress some of your concerns.
> 
> Anthem-Nick- seems to do a very good job of adressing problems in a timely manner.
> 
> I'm sitting here being distracted by how good John Mayall's Bluesbreakers 'A Sense of Place' cd is sounding with the ARC-1 in place. Now I have to decide what to watch tonight to test out the movie side. Gladiator? The Incedibles?LOTR's? Decisions,decisions.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13615599
> 
> 
> If the Anthem would have worked without hiccups I wouldn't have changed.



Hey misterdoggy - did you see that there is a new firmware 1.31b available?


#1 on the list of changes is:

Start-up code change to address unintentional shutdown once bootup completes (potential fix).


This sounds like the issue you've been having, at least to me. If so, you might want to try it before getting rid of the D2.


----------



## ChantheMan




gdc said:


> misterdoggy said:
> 
> 
> 
> If the Anthem would have worked without hiccups I wouldn't have changed.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Hey misterdoggy - did you see that there is a new firmware 1.31b available?
> 
> 
> #1 on the list of changes is:
> 
> Start-up code change to address unintentional shutdown once bootup completes (potential fix).
> 
> 
> This sounds like the issue you've been having, at least to me. If so, you might want to try it before getting rid of the D2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just loaded the 1.31b and will post again after a couple of weeks to see if it fixes my startup issue (very infrequent).
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Chan
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13617523
> 
> 
> You need to stop taking *BAD* *INACCURATE* advice from
> 
> a Meridian Dealer who is trying to sell you an *OBSOLETE*
> 
> piece of AV gear that costs 4 times more than the Anthem.
> 
> 
> GOOD - Luck



Being new to this forum, I did not want to rip Meridian too badly, but... based on what misterdoggy has posted about Meridian's comments, I would not purchase from Meridian in the future.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13611632
> 
> 
> Coming from you Rob, I'll take that as a compliment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More like I've been assimilated into the collective.
> 
> 
> After 3 HD DVD players, way too many discs and getting cut off at the knees by Netflix, the 2.3 firmware cinched it.
> 
> Seriously, I don't know how other CE companies can compete with the Playstation.
> 
> I was waiting for the BD50 but that won't be out for months now and will be ~$500 in my estimation. I got the PS3 for $299.
> 
> Anyway, while I'm waiting for ARC-1 to show up I can re-fill my Netflix queue.
> 
> Are there any decent films out on Blu-ray yet besides The Fifth Element and Little Man?



You could start out with the Academy Award Winner for Best Picture: No Country for Old Men.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13619256
> 
> 
> You could start out with the Academy Award Winner for Best Picture: No Country for Old Men.



If you had to pick three movies (any format even SD DVD) to show off your HT which would they be and why or which scenes?


For me Master and Commander would be one. The ship sounds are so amazing. When I first heard it on the D2, I looked behind me or paused to listen upstairs a few times the creaking and footsteps were so realistic.


Damn, two other. I like the initial Scat (spelling?) ice breaking scene in Ice age and the ice slide scene. Amazing sound effects, but I think I can do better.


LOTR RoTK Pelennor (Spelling again) Fields chapter 37 (or close) is insane (Or FoTR Balrog).


Pod racing, initial battle sequence in SW III damn, to many. Oh wait, Black Hawk down... Ok, so I will stick with M&C and work on the other 2 lol.


PS. Live Free and Die Hard (Two many scenes). Transformers all over the place (Desert scene). I give up.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13619438
> 
> 
> If you had to pick three movies (any format even SD DVD) to show off your HT which would they be and why or which scenes?
> 
> 
> For me Master and Commander would be one. The ship sounds are so amazing. When I first heard it on the D2, I looked behind me or paused to listen upstairs a few times the creaking and footsteps were so realistic.
> 
> 
> Damn, two other. I like the initial Scat (spelling?) ice breaking scene in Ice age and the ice slide scene. Amazing sound effects, but I think I can do better.
> 
> 
> LOTR RoTK Pelennor (Spelling again) Fields chapter 37 (or close) is insane (Or FoTR Balrog).
> 
> 
> Pod racing, initial battle sequence in SW III damn, to many. Oh wait, Black Hawk down... Ok, so I will stick with M&C and work on the other 2 lol.
> 
> 
> PS. Live Free and Die Hard (Two many scenes). Transformers all over the place (Desert scene). I give up.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



I wish they would release *Titan: AE* on Blu-ray. The scene with the ice asteroids has long been a favorite demo. It would look and sound fantastic in HD!


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13619729
> 
> 
> I wish they would release *Titan: AE* on Blu-ray. The scene with the ice asteroids has long been a favorite demo. It would look and sound fantastic in HD!



Yeah that was great. Also reminds me of SWII the sonic charges in the asteroid field (IE. Reminds me I forgot to mention).


Cheers.


Richard


----------



## abc999

Now that the PS3 can output DTS-MA in a few days time, I hope Anthem can address the 7.1 limitation via HDMI in the near future.(even with a hardware upgrade)


----------



## Tim Winders

While I would gladly pay for a hw upgrade for this, I won't hold my breath.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13619941
> 
> 
> While I would gladly pay for a hw upgrade for this, I won't hold my breath.




I agree with you, but with such an upgrade, I will just be looking at the rearview mirror in the Pre/processor highway.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13615599
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> No question the Anthem is a Great Processor, but I would have to buy a 230V version which shoots the price up astronomically making the Meridian a competitor price wise. For the same money, I think the Meridian is a better value resale wise.
> 
> 
> I will put the D2 up for sale and will be happy to get $5k for it while a used Meridian at the same cost here will resell for $9-$10k. So its also economics.
> 
> 
> Its not a fair comparison either between a processor that upscales, upsamples and does all the great things that the D2 does against a Processor that is 3X or 4X the price for just doing Audio.
> 
> 
> You would hope that the Audio portion has to be outstanding ???
> 
> 
> If the Anthem would have worked without hiccups I wouldn't have changed.
> 
> 
> By the Way I will upgrade to the 3800 when it comes out in Europe, but its not available yet.




We also use 230 volts here in the Philippines and I paid roughly the same price as in the US inclusive of 12% VAT.


----------



## dweltman

There's no problem with leaving the serial cable attached to the back of the D2, is there?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13615599
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> You would hope that the Audio portion has to be outstanding ???
> 
> 
> If the Anthem would have worked without hiccups I wouldn't have changed.
> 
> 
> By the Way I will upgrade to the 3800 when it comes out in Europe, but its not available yet.



Not to beat a dead horse but....










I think you are missing the point. Meridian makes exceptional gear I wouldn't hesitate to own one for analog or two channel digital sources. The point you are missing is it will be your player and not the Meridian that has the most impact on the sonics if you use the analog outputs. Unless you buy a matching Meridian player with their proprietary digital interface you are at the mercy of your sources. While HDMI has some issues I think you are getting a very biased opinion from Meridian.


----------



## dweltman

what do the Video Board Questioner, Data Analyzer, and Flash Eraser fom the Tech Support site do?


----------



## EAnderson

Just a question, How do I save any adjustments from the video settings menu on a D2? I've tried saving in user settings menu, however when I turn off the the D2 I lose all of my changes. So, as you all can probably understand I'm starting to lose patience. I did'nt have this problem prior to downloading v1.31, although I don't remember if I had to do something different to save my video menu settings. I received my ARC-1 last week and I have'nt ran it yet for the fear that any calibration changes may lost when I power down the D2. Any help or advice is greatly welcome.



Thanks in advance, Eric


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13619256
> 
> 
> You could start out with the Academy Award Winner for Best Picture: No Country for Old Men.



There you go again Rob, talking about movies, sheesh.

My Netflix queue is now overflowing with BR goodness.

I tried, but couldn't bring myself to click on ID4.

I actually made the Hadj to a theater to see No Country for Old Men a few months ago.

Loved it, except for the ending.

It's funny, the rare occasions I go to the cinema, during the film I find myself wondering how it will look at home. It always sounds better at home.
*Day 30, no ARC-1 in sight.*









Gordon, did you hear anything from Definitive?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/13620554
> 
> 
> There's no problem with leaving the serial cable attached to the back of the D2, is there?



None.


I leave my serial cable permanently attached to the back of the D2 and coiled up when not in use. Just make sure the contacts at the disconnected end aren't touching anything.

--Bib


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/13620593
> 
> 
> what do the Video Board Questioner, Data Analyzer, and Flash Eraser fom the Tech Support site do?



These are questions man is not meant to wot of.


You might as well ask, "What's wrong with putting metal containers in the microwave?", or "Why not divide by zero?"


Primarily what they do is lurk there, waiting to be unleashed by Anthem tech support when you need them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13619906
> 
> 
> Now that the PS3 can output DTS-MA in a few days time, I hope Anthem can address the 7.1 limitation via HDMI in the near future.(even with a hardware upgrade)



How much are you willing to pay for it?


It's not a minor hardware change as it affects both the video board (which implements HDMI input) and the digital audio signal paths. And to be done right, they would also have to up the multi-channel analog inputs to 7.1.


All while maintaining the quality they've already got.


Does $6000 upgrade cost sound about right?

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13621054
> 
> 
> How much are you willing to pay for it?
> 
> 
> It's not a minor hardware change as it affects both the video board (which implements HDMI input) and the digital audio signal paths. And to be done right, they would also have to up the multi-channel analog inputs to 7.1.
> 
> 
> All while maintaining the quality they've already got.
> 
> 
> Does $6000 upgrade cost sound about right?
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



$6000? No way! I would rather tackle it in a different way. The upgrade from D1 to D2 is around 2000 dollars and a ton of features were included. I don't really care for analog 7.1 channel inputs though.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13620761
> 
> 
> Just a question, How do I save any adjustments from the video settings menu on a D2? I've tried saving in user settings menu, however when I turn off the the D2 I lose all of my changes. So, as you all can probably understand I'm starting to lose patience. I did'nt have this problem prior to downloading v1.31, although I don't remember if I had to do something different to save my video menu settings. I received my ARC-1 last week and I have'nt ran it yet for the fear that any calibration changes may lost when I power down the D2. Any help or advice is greatly welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance, Eric



AH HA!


FINALLY! Someone who's got the same problem I've got!


Eric, you need to call Anthem Tech Support ASAP and give them the details of what's happening to you (and me).


What is the vintage of your D2? When did you purchase it (roughly?) Mine was purchased in late summer 2006.


Anthem believes I have a hardware problem on my video board largely because they aren't getting any complaints from others that this is occurring.


The settings you place into the Video Source Adjust menu for all inputs are supposed to be saved (on the video board) and restored automatically when you cycle power off and then on -- REGARDLESS of whether or not you did a Save User/Installer Settings prior to that power cycle. What I'm seeing is that all those settings, for all inputs, revert to factory default values. Settings changes made in the Setup menus, on the other hand, DO survive power cycles without problem. And Video Source Adjust menu settings "saved" into User or Installer settings are retained in those memories and can be Loaded to correct for the failure of them to automatically reload on power up.


The workaround is to establish your Video Source Adjust settings (for all inputs) and then do a Save User Settings and/or Save Installer Settings. These are just two identical memories for saving this stuff. The Saved Settings include all your Setup menu settings and all your Video Source Adjust menu settings. Then, each time you power up, just go into Setup / Save & Restore Settings and do a Load User Settings.


Now, you aren't supposed to have to do this. Those Video Source Adjust menu settings should be automatically retained over power cycles. But something about V1.31, possibly related to the specific video board you have, is causing these settings to not load in properly on power up.


Question: Is your display a DVI display?


Again, it would be VERY helpful if you would call Anthem Tech Support first thing Monday and give them the details on your D2 and related sources and displays so they can sort out what's going wrong for both of us.


---------------------------------------


If you want to use ARC, here's what you do:


* I'm assuming you ALREADY have V1.31 firmware installed in your D2.


* Power off your D2, and turn off it's back panel switch. Power off your computer.


* Connect the serial cable between the D2 and the computer on which you have installed the ARC software.


* Turn on the D2 back panel switch and your computer, and then turn on the D2 using its remote.


* Establish all of your Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu settings the way you like them to be. If you have them previously saved in User or Installer settings, just Load them now. Otherwise adjust them manually.


* Don't bother to Save these adjustments to User or Installer settings. You will be doing that later.


* Once your settings are all correct, DO NOT POWER OFF YOUR D2!


* Instead, run Live Video Settings Editor on your PC. Do a "Get" to retrieve your Video Source Adjust menu settings from the D2. Do a "Save" to write those to a file on your PC. Exit Live Video Settings Editor.


* Run the ARC application. Do a measurement, calculation, and upload of the ARC results to your computer. Doing this will cause the D2 to power off and on a couple of times. The Uploaded ARC results will include changes to the Speaker Configuration and Speaker Calibration portions of your Setup menu (along with other, hidden settings that only ARC can see). And since you have this problem with the Video Source Adjust menu you will lose those changes. But not to worry as you have those changes saved on your PC.


* When the ARC upload is completed, power up your D2, go into the Setup menu and double check that the cross over values in the Speaker Configuration menus match what ARC (Advanced mode) shows in the Targets window. Also double check that the Speaker Calibration values make sense -- in particular the volume trim for your subwoofer. This is just to help verify that the Upload of the ARC results completed normally. If you spot any problems, redo the ARC Upload until it gets it right.


* Once you are happy that the Setup / Speaker Configuration and Setup / Speaker Calibration values have been set as expected by the Upload of ARC results, DO NOT POWER OFF YOUR D2!


* Instead, run Live Video Settings Editor on your PC. "Open" the file on your PC where you previously saved you Video Source Adjust menu settings and do a Load to transfer them to the D2. Exit Live Video Settings Editor. Keep you D2 powered on.


* Double check that the Video Source Adjust menu for various inputs does indeed now contain the right stuff.


* At this point you have correctly Uploaded ARC results, you have also Loaded your saved Video Source Adjust menu settings (from the file on your PC), and the rest of your Setup menu items are still in there because they survive power off/on cycles without problem.


* Now go to Setup / Save & Restore Settings and do a Save User Settings, and for good measure do a Save Installer Settings. This records all of those settings in these 2 memories.


* Now you can power off/on your D2 as desired. Each time you power it on, the first thing you should do is to go into Setup / Save & Restore Settings and do a Load User Settings. This will retrieve the Video Source Adjust menu settings you saved in there. It will also retrieve all of your saved Setup menu settings, but since these already survive power off/on cycles there's no change there. The uploaded ARC results are stashed separately and apparently they, too, survive power cycles without problem.


* If you want to redo ARC for any reason, Upload the new ARC results, then run Live Video Settings Editor and Open and Load your file on the PC with your saved Video Source Adjust menu settings. Then, on the D2, Save User/Installer Settings. You are then good to go with power cycles except that you have to manually do your Load User Settings on each power up.


--------------------------------------------


Again this is just a workaround. The problem with Video Source Adjust menu settings not surviving power cycles that you, and I, are facing, is a bug. Anthem is working on it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13621192
> 
> 
> $6000? No way! I would rather tackle it in a different way. The upgrade from D1 to D2 is around 2000 dollars and a ton of features were included. I don't really care for analog 7.1 channel inputs though.



That's just the point. Adding the signal paths for those 2 extra channels of input is a pervasive change that impacts pretty much EVERYTHING in the D2 except for the power supply and the analog audio output stage (which is already 7.1).


It would, in essence, be a new product. And that means that an upgrade would pretty much discard much of the electronics in the current D2 and replace them. Along with requiring software changes in the user interface and such.


I.e., it would likely be more cost effective to buy the new product and sell your current D2 than to "upgrade" your D2.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13621054
> 
> 
> How much are you willing to pay for it?
> 
> 
> It's not a minor hardware change as it affects both the video board (which implements HDMI input) and the digital audio signal paths. And to be done right, they would also have to up the multi-channel analog inputs to 7.1.
> 
> 
> All while maintaining the quality they've already got.
> 
> 
> Does $6000 upgrade cost sound about right?
> 
> --Bob



How about a D2.5 or D3? Is that even on the horizon?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13621381
> 
> 
> How about a D2.5 or D3? Is that even on the horizon?



Not that we've been able to discover.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

How about Anthem monitors the matrixing of the 6th and 7th channel or however it is derived from in the source and ensure that their matrixing algorithms in their software stays as close to the source as possible when recreating it for us from the 5.1.


Or if it is truly a discrete 7.1 source the same logic applies.


I am at peace with my own limitations (you know like not knowing when your speakers are working hahaa) and I highly doubt that Anthem will have any problems engineering their software through updates to keep pace with any difference I could ever discern.

















Cheers,


Richard


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13621472
> 
> 
> How about Anthem monitors the matrixing of the 6th and 7th channel or however it is derived from in the source and ensure that their matrixing algorithms in their software stays as close to the source as possible when recreating it for us from the 5.1.
> 
> 
> Or if it is truly a discrete 7.1 source the same logic applies.
> 
> 
> I am at peace with my own limitations (you know like not knowing when your speakers are working hahaa) and I highly doubt that Anthem will have any problems engineering their software through updates to keep pace with any difference I could ever discern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Except it has no way of receiving the additional 2 channels. That's really the core of this problem.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13621565
> 
> 
> Except it has no way of receiving the additional 2 channels. That's really the core of this problem.



if your convinced that receiving all 7.1 into the D2 is the only way to come close to (or even be almost indistinguishable) from the original then you are correct.


That is also a perfectly valid belief and there are many who probably share.


For me, I think that the Anthem folks can continue doing a great job of taking the 5.1 and generating the 6th and 7th channels to the point where I doubt I could ever tell the difference if it came in as 7.1 or 5.1 so for me it's really not an issue.


It would be great to get a better understanding of how they derive the original 7.1 in the first place. I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't just matrixed or derived in some way from an original 5.1 source that was used for the theaters (or the same source that was used to get the 5.1 for the theaters).


That's my point. In the end, from a practical listening and HT enjoyment perspective I really don't think I am or will be missing anything.


That said, if say +25% of movies going to home release included a 7.1 lossless track and it was proven through extensive multiple blind testing that there was an obvious difference, then I would need to rethink that. I think we are years away though.


All things being equal, if I were in the market for a new machine, I would take the processor that can do the 7.1, but it's the figuring out if all things are equal that is the tricky part. I wouldn't sacrifice D2 performance for a lesser 7.1 capable processor that's for sure. In the end I don't think the extra 2 channels would trump the better overall processing.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13617523
> 
> 
> You need to stop taking *BAD* *INACCURATE* advice from
> 
> a Meridian Dealer who is trying to sell you an *OBSOLETE*
> 
> piece of AV gear that costs 4 times more than the Anthem.
> 
> 
> GOOD - Luck



Sorry Dr


I think each brand and each forum of each brand defends their brand only natural.


I am part of the B&W forum, McIntosh forum, and others and each take pride in their product.


I did see the 1.31b and am installing it as I write.


What a great company to write software to fix a problem so fast !!!


----------



## misterdoggy




ChantheMan said:


> gdc said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13615599
> 
> 
> If the Anthem would have worked without hiccups I wouldn't have changed.
> 
> 
> I just loaded the 1.31b and will post again after a couple of weeks to see if it fixes my startup issue (very infrequent).
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Chan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gordon and Chan
> 
> 
> Thanks for the heads up
> 
> 
> I am installing right now. I will report the results. I already paid for the Meridian, but would try to get out of it if this works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## misterdoggy

I INSTALLED 1.31B and now its turns on but nothing works


it shows no input on video


The OSD does not go to the TV via hdmi (maybe I will try something else)


and no sound on one satellite and the other shows input but theres no sound


this is major disaster time


----------



## abc999




misterdoggy said:


> ChantheMan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13619076
> 
> 
> 
> Gordon and Chan
> 
> 
> Thanks for the heads up
> 
> 
> I am installing right now. I will report the results. I already paid for the Meridian, but would try to get out of it if this works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope the fix works on your unit.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13622061
> 
> 
> I INSTALLED 1.31B and now its turns on but nothing works
> 
> 
> it shows no input on video
> 
> 
> The OSD does not go to the TV via hdmi (maybe I will try something else)
> 
> 
> and no sound on one satellite and the other shows input but theres no sound
> 
> 
> this is major disaster time



Before upgrading the firmware, did you:


1, reset to factory defaults

2, remove all HDMI connections

3, followed instructions to the letter


If so, after installing firmware, did it indicate that the upgrade was a success?



Alvin


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13622094
> 
> 
> Before upgrading the firmware, did you:
> 
> 
> 1, reset to factory defaults
> 
> 2, remove all HDMI connections
> 
> 3, followed instructions to the letter
> 
> 
> If so, after installing firmware, did it indicate that the upgrade was a success?
> 
> 
> 
> Alvin



Alvin,


I reset to factory defaults


I forgot to turn off the TV which was connected by hdmi


It said it was success


I am now running it again with the TV off.


I hope that was the glitch ????


----------



## abc999

With me, I UNPLUG every HDMI source and projector or better yet remove every hdmi cables if it still does not work. Next step would be to use the flash eraser available at the Anthem support website so that you can clean everything before another attemp. If it still does not work, Hard reset which involves opening the top cover and shorting 2 pins, but you have to contact Anthem for the detailed instructions to do this.


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13622117
> 
> 
> With me, I UNPLUG every HDMI source and projector or better yet remove every hdmi cables if it still does not work.



Just what I did this time.


I forgot about the TV because the screen was black and I thought it was not on, but it was on.


I am trying to install now with everything disconnected.


It hangs up each time at the very end verifying the video processor


it works 1 time out of 6


----------



## misterdoggy

what is the last resort operation to getting it back to working order if the update doesn't work ?


Is there a re-boot of the original system possible ?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13622126
> 
> 
> Just what I did this time.
> 
> 
> I forgot about the TV because the screen was black and I thought it was not on, but it was on.
> 
> 
> I am trying to install now with everything disconnected.
> 
> 
> It hangs up each time at the very end verifying the video processor
> 
> 
> it works 1 time out of 6



It seems that you need a clean install, flash the EEPROM first before Upgrading.


I had the same problem before and nothing worked. I had to replace the whole videoboard. After that no problem whatsoever.


----------



## misterdoggy

what do you mean flast the EEPROM


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13622149
> 
> 
> what do you mean flast the EEPROM



As long as we are sure that your computer is not the problem(USB to RS232), a flash eraser is available from Anthem support, it will clean everything if there is a conflict in the upgrade process. After that you can try to upgrade again. I know its a painful process, but if get it right, it will all be worth it.


Do you have an old computer with dedicated serial port?


----------



## misterdoggy

I just did the upgrade again and it said it was successful


No sound no image nothing


no OSD nothing


It turns on and shows which source and asks for a audio source but its saved ?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13622168
> 
> 
> I just did the upgrade again and it said it was successful
> 
> 
> No sound no image nothing
> 
> 
> no OSD nothing
> 
> 
> It turns on and shows which source and asks for a video source but its saved ?



This will be my next step if I were you:


Get in touch with Anthem support and tell them your problem and ask about the Flash eraser. They might send you the software along with the video questioner software to determine if your videoboard is faulty. My guess is the firmware upgrade is corrupt and any attemp to upgrade will be futile. You need to clean the Flash chip(?) first before any other attemp to upgrade.


----------



## misterdoggy

I was trying to install 1.31 and go back to something that worked when in the middle I realized I hadn't gone to factory settings so I disconnected in the middle and now it does not start at all.Dead......


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13622186
> 
> 
> I was trying to install 1.31 and go back to something that worked when in the middle I realized I hadn't gone to factory settings so I disconnected in the middle and now it does not start at all.Dead......



Now, you really need the Flash eraser. With it, your D2 will come to life.


----------



## misterdoggy

Its DEAD










Its over for me and Anthem..........


Now I have to think about a video processor to go with the Meridian


I must say that after owning Krell, McIntosh, Lexicon MC12, Parasound C1, Rotel 1098 and now Anthem, it was the one that worked the least well with the most difficulty.


Hdmi didn't work for satellites either in video or audio and its sensitivity to voltage and lastly the difficulty of RS232 connection all add up to a very low review on my part.


When it worked it was great.... Now it doesn't work at all


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13622195
> 
> 
> Now, you really need the Flash eraser. With it, your D2 will come to life.



Flash eraser is available on the Anthem Tech Support site where 1.31b is located.


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13622248
> 
> 
> Flash eraser is available on the Anthem Tech Support site where 1.31b is located.



I used Flash eraser


am installing 1.31b now


Thanks for all the help


this forum is the best support forum I have been on


----------



## misterdoggy

Im hoping erasing everything and starting fresh might even be a good thing


Lets see


----------



## dschamis

Is there a way to program a universal remote to jump right to DVD2 (or any other secondary source for that matter)?


In other words, is there a discreet code for DVD2, etc.?


Thanks


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13622491
> 
> 
> Is there a way to program a universal remote to jump right to DVD2 (or any other secondary source for that matter)?
> 
> 
> In other words, is there a discreet code for DVD2, etc.?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yes. In the manual, it tells you. You press THX and a 2 number combination. I don't remember what it is for DVD2, I think it's THX 8 1, but check the manual.


If you have a Harmony remote, you'll have to get with Logitech and have them help you. I was on the phone with them for over an hour one day and they got all those codes programmed for me. Now my D2 switches inputs only using the THX x x discrete codes.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13622511
> 
> 
> Yes. In the manual, it tells you. You press THX and a 2 number combination. I don't remember what it is for DVD2, I think it's THX 8 1, but check the manual.
> 
> 
> If you have a Harmony remote, you'll have to get with Logitech and have them help you. I was on the phone with them for over an hour one day and they got all those codes programmed for me. Now my D2 switches inputs only using the THX x x discrete codes.



COOL info Tim.


I use Crestron - so that sequence would take me 10 seconds

to program.


NOW that I have WORLD CLASS IR control of the PS3 - from

my CRESTRON - I love it


----------



## misterdoggy

Well flash erased


Installed 1.31b


worked fine for 10 minutes


Turned it off and back on (no more power off)


no sound - no image - no osd menu -


My Wife Can't take anymore, I am obsessed and have been for weeks


Packing it up and sending it back


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13622511
> 
> 
> If you have a Harmony remote, you'll have to get with Logitech and have them help you. I was on the phone with them for over an hour one day and they got all those codes programmed for me. Now my D2 switches inputs only using the THX x x discrete codes.



I do have a Harmony remote - any hints?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13622491
> 
> 
> Is there a way to program a universal remote to jump right to DVD2 (or any other secondary source for that matter)?
> 
> 
> In other words, is there a discreet code for DVD2, etc.?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Appendix A of the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13622653
> 
> 
> I do have a Harmony remote - any hints?



For some reason, Harmony still hasn't added those 3 key sequences to its database for the D2. Call them up, explain what you need to the Level 1 person, and they'll switch you over to Level 2 support who can add the additional inputs to your definition for the D2. Have Appendix A of the D2 manual handy so you can confirm the 3 key codes for each input with them.


They used to have a page in their user software where you could do this yourself, but they pulled it because folks were using it to try to implement complex macro sequences and getting themselves all confused.


While you are at it, you'll also need to have them turn on the special codes that allow keys like the "7" key and the "Setup" key to react differently if they are pressed and held for a few seconds.

--Bob


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13622570
> 
> 
> Well flash erased
> 
> 
> Installed 1.31b
> 
> 
> worked fine for 10 minutes
> 
> 
> Turned it off and back on (no more power off)
> 
> 
> no sound - no image - no osd menu -
> 
> 
> My Wife Can't take anymore, I am obsessed and have been for weeks
> 
> 
> Packing it up and sending it back



My install of 1.31b went fine with no problems. Too early to tell if the startup issue is fixed.


I assume you tried to restore all your settings through the front panel display?


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChantheMan* /forum/post/13622692
> 
> 
> My install of 1.31b went fine with no problems. Too early to tell if the startup issue is fixed.
> 
> 
> I assume you tried to restore all your settings through the front panel display?



It worked fine for 10 minutes


then back to no image no sound no osd


I had the front panel but it had the user settings


Its all history now


----------



## Tim Winders

Yes, I did this with Logitech. Tell them you want them to change the input database for the D2 so everyone will have access to the same codes without going through L2 tech support.


I was actually quite pleased with the level of support I received from Logitech but also frustrated I HAD to get that level of support.


----------



## drhankz

TIM


Do you remember seeing a RACK MOUNT Photo of a PS3?


----------



## Tim Winders

yes. well, sort of. someone had a shelf the ps3 on it with a custom faceplate. I think it was a mid atlantic rack. i'm out now. will see if I have a bookmark for it when I get home. it might be in the forum so you can try a search.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13623314
> 
> 
> yes. well, sort of. someone had a shelf the ps3 on it with a custom faceplate. I think it was a mid atlantic rack. i'm out now. will see if I have a bookmark for it when I get home. it might be in the forum so you can try a search.



Yes - I searched for it and could not find it.


I actually thought it was YOU


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13620883
> 
> 
> There you go again Rob, talking about movies, sheesh.
> 
> My Netflix queue is now overflowing with BR goodness.
> 
> I tried, but couldn't bring myself to click on ID4.
> 
> I actually made the Hadj to a theater to see No Country for Old Men a few months ago.
> 
> Loved it, except for the ending.



Couldn't possibly agree with you more regarding the ending of No Country. But that's an entire thread in itself!


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13622749
> 
> 
> It worked fine for 10 minutes
> 
> 
> then back to no image no sound no osd
> 
> 
> I had the front panel but it had the user settings
> 
> 
> Its all history now



With the flash eraser you may need to run it multiple time until it erase all the flash partition (watch the status bar on the program). Then you can reinstall the older firmware version.


----------



## netroamer

I loaded 1.31b after reading that it resolved some problems with Vista and usb/serial port data. I am running ARC today for the first time and also with a new VAIO with Vista Ultimate.


After the 1.31b completed, I noticed that the Background mute option was missing from the Video Output settings, anyone know or has asked Anthem why?


John


----------



## misterdoggy

Well its in the Box and going out monday to be returned


Can anyone recommend a decent upscaler to use with the meridian ??


DVDO maybe VP50 ??


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13623367
> 
> 
> Couldn't possibly agree with you more regarding the ending of No Country. But that's an entire thread in itself!



No doubt


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13615544
> 
> 
> No, not at all.
> 
> 
> LPCM is a digital audio signal. If you pass it to the D2 over HDMI then the D2 can process it directly.
> 
> 
> If you want to use multi-channel analog connections instead, then the player has to convert the digital LPCM signal to analog audio.
> 
> 
> This is an incredibly important factor in the resulting audio quality. Good quality digital to analog conversion is not cheap. It is not just the particular Digital to Analog Converter (DAC) chips that are used. It is the entire power and signal path engineering that eliminates noise, distortion and cross-talk between the channels.
> 
> 
> One of the major reasons the Denon 3800 Blu-Ray player is so expensive, for example, is that they invested in a high quality analog audio output stage in that design.
> 
> --Bob



What does the D2/AVM50 have for D/A converters? How does it rank compared to a players D/A converters such as the Denons 3800?


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13623229
> 
> 
> Do you remember seeing a RACK MOUNT Photo of a PS3?













from top:

ButtKicker amp

monitor

LED gooseneck lamps

PS3 with Mid Atlantic faceplate

Toshiba HD-A35

HTPC

DVD case holder slot

vent

Moto DCT3412

fans (my D2 used to run hot before new video board)

D2

fans (ditto)

drawer

vent

Classe CAV-180 amp for surrounds and rears


the rack is in an alcove in the rear of the theater. the amp for the front channels is located in the front of theater.


----------



## wabbit636

Need help!


I am doing my 1st update from 1.21 to 1.31 and am having problems.


I have the IOgear 232A adapter and and extension


Using the live editor I can conect to the D2 but when I try to install the firmware upgrade the program can't find any D2 hardware.


Any ideas????


Everything is ready for the install except for this problem!


Thanks


----------



## bluemark81

Repost:


When I loaded v1.31, I forgot to load my default settings first. Everything seems to be fine so far, but what problems might this cause?


----------



## wabbit636

As per the guide saying to try a different com port if the computer can't locate the preamp I tried to change the com port to something else between 1-6 that wasn't used and no luck!


Using the live editor I got my settings & reloaded them to the D2 with no problems so my usb/serial adaptor works.


Any suggestions??


----------



## wabbit636

I am guessing that the serial extension is a null modem one and not straight wired one....it was a generic cable with only a plactic bag and no packaging!


Off to get another one! Hope it works....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13623849
> 
> 
> I loaded 1.31b after reading that it resolved some problems with Vista and usb/serial port data. I am running ARC today for the first time and also with a new VAIO with Vista Ultimate.
> 
> 
> After the 1.31b completed, I noticed that the Background mute option was missing from the Video Output settings, anyone know or has asked Anthem why?
> 
> 
> John



Have you checked the Setup / Displays & Timeout menu? That's where it is supposed to be.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13624298
> 
> 
> Repost:
> 
> 
> When I loaded v1.31, I forgot to load my default settings first. Everything seems to be fine so far, but what problems might this cause?



I believe you were coming from V1.30 to V1.31, correct? If so, you shouldn't have any problems.


The reload of factory defaults, and the power on -- wait 30 seconds -- then power off stuff after reloading your user settings, are in there to deal with issues with the change in format of user settings when upgrading from 1.2x or older firmware. There is no such significant change in settings format between V1.30 and V1.31.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13624717
> 
> 
> Have you checked the Setup / Displays & Timeout menu? That's where it is supposed to be.
> 
> --Bob



WOOPS! I forget that!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/13624265
> 
> 
> Need help!
> 
> 
> I am doing my 1st update from 1.21 to 1.31 and am having problems.
> 
> 
> I have the IOgear 232A adapter and and extension
> 
> 
> Using the live editor I can conect to the D2 but when I try to install the firmware upgrade the program can't find any D2 hardware.
> 
> 
> Any ideas????
> 
> 
> Everything is ready for the install except for this problem!
> 
> 
> Thanks



In Windows, go to Control Panel > Hardware > Device Manager. In the list that comes up, find the entry for your IOgear adapter under USB devices. Open its Properties and find the version number of the driver the IOgear is using.


Now go to the IOgear web site's Support section and compare that to the latest version they offer for download to your particular Windows OS. If you don't already have the latest version, download and install that and try again.


In addition, if you have any other USB devices attached to your computer, try temporarily disconnecting them. Finally, it is best to attach the adapter directly to your computer's USB port rather than going through some sort of USB hub. And keep your USB cable short. Use a longer serial cable to reach from the USB adapter to the D2.


Also, make sure you have no other programs running that might be interfering with the performance of the firmware installer application.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

I started to run ARC today and it found the D2, but then posted a message that it could not prepare the D2 for measurement.


The first time it happened, one option was to ignore and proceed, which I did. It finished the ARC sweeps and then failed to upload part of the calibration. I tried several time with the same result.


I tried changing the serial port and speed down to 4800, but nothing worked. Anyone else experience this? Running Windows Vista with a SIIG expresscard to Serial adapter.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13624127
> 
> 
> PS3 with Mid Atlantic faceplate



Thanks *3no* that was what I was looking for.


I wanted to show a Friend. I need to make a PS3 rack

mount for mine when it arrives next week.


OK - I know this is asking a lot now. I have heard

Mid Atlantic has a face plate. Is it already cut out?

I have searched the web including Mid Atlantic and

I can't find it.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13624741
> 
> 
> I believe you were coming from V1.30 to V1.31, correct? If so, you shouldn't have any problems.
> 
> 
> The reload of factory defaults, and the power on -- wait 30 seconds -- then power off stuff after reloading your user settings, are in there to deal with issues with the change in format of user settings when upgrading from 1.2x or older firmware. There is no such significant change in settings format between V1.30 and V1.31.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I actually upgraded from 1.11e.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/13624861
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I actually upgraded from 1.11e.



OK, I got you confused with another poster.


Go through your Setup menus and your Video Source Adjust menus and double check that everything is set correctly. If so, you should be OK.


However you might also want to send Anthem tech support an email, let them know you made this mistake, and ask them if you need to re-do the V1.31 installation or double check anything specific in your setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13624809
> 
> 
> I started to run ARC today and it found the D2, but then posted a message that it could not prepare the D2 for measurement.
> 
> 
> The first time it happened, one option was to ignore and proceed, which I did. It finished the ARC sweeps and then failed to upload part of the calibration. I tried several time with the same result.
> 
> 
> I tried changing the serial port and speed down to 4800, but nothing worked. Anyone else experience this? Running Windows Vista with a SIIG expresscard to Serial adapter.



Do you already have the V1.31 firmware installed on your D2?

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13624883
> 
> 
> OK, I got you confused with another poster.
> 
> 
> Go through your Setup menus and your Video Source Adjust menus and double check that everything is set correctly. If so, you should be OK.
> 
> 
> However you might also want to send Anthem tech support an email, let them know you made this mistake, and ask them if you need to re-do the V1.31 installation or double check anything specific in your setup.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I've checked settings and haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary or unusual except for some of the new settings. The download seemed to work without issue telling me all was complete when finished. I also took your advice and sent tech support an e-mail also. Hopefully all is ok.


----------



## bool

Got my D2 w/Arc last night. Installed the D2 this morning and the arc software. I have a laptop and desktop w/Vista Home Premium and have been able to install firmware upgrades with no problems. Arc installed fine, but when I ran it I got an error saying no valid mic can be found.


I then went upstairs, lugged the other desktop downstairs (which runs XP Pro) and was able to run ARC. Have other people been able to run ARC using Vista? Can anyone think of some settings I may need to monkey with to get the mic to work. The funny thing is when I plug in the mic, everything seems to install fine, but for some reason the program can't find it when I use Vista.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/13625077
> 
> 
> Got my D2 w/Arc last night. Installed the D2 this morning and the arc software. I have a laptop and desktop w/Vista Home Premium and have been able to install firmware upgrades with no problems. Arc installed fine, but when I ran it I got an error saying no valid mic can be found.
> 
> 
> I then went upstairs, lugged the other desktop downstairs (which runs XP Pro) and was able to run ARC. Have other people been able to run ARC using Vista? Can anyone think of some settings I may need to monkey with to get the mic to work. The funny thing is when I plug in the mic, everything seems to install fine, but for some reason the program can't find it when I use Vista.



If you have more than one USB port, try using a different one. The port you first tried may be having power problems which let the install happen but not the operation of the mic.


Some folks have also had success replacing the included mic USB cable with a shorter cable.


Also, if you have any other USB devices connected to that laptop, try disconnecting them.

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13624843
> 
> 
> I have heard
> 
> Mid Atlantic has a face plate. Is it already cut out?
> 
> I have searched the web including Mid Atlantic and
> 
> I can't find it.



Glad I could help, doc. That's a Middle Atlantic faceplate in the photo, precut from their database. Here's a link to the Middle Atlantic page for custom rackmounts (look up PS3 in the database to get the full part number), and a link to the Middle Atlantic dealer where I ordered mine.


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13624768
> 
> 
> In Windows, go to Control Panel > Hardware > Device Manager. In the list that comes up, find the entry for your IOgear adapter under USB devices. Open its Properties and find the version number of the driver the IOgear is using.
> 
> 
> Now go to the IOgear web site's Support section and compare that to the latest version they offer for download to your particular Windows OS. If you don't already have the latest version, download and install that and try again.
> 
> 
> In addition, if you have any other USB devices attached to your computer, try temporarily disconnecting them. Finally, it is best to attach the adapter directly to your computer's USB port rather than going through some sort of USB hub. And keep your USB cable short. Use a longer serial cable to reach from the USB adapter to the D2.
> 
> 
> Also, make sure you have no other programs running that might be interfering with the performance of the firmware installer application.
> 
> --Bob



I tried all of the above and no luck.


I just bought a new extension cable and still no luck!


As for the update of the IOgear, I downloaded the latest version but it says that the one widow found was better and the bx says plug & play for windows XP.


The live video editor works well but for some reason it doesn't recognize my D2 on the firmware install.


Anything else I can do??


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13624887
> 
> 
> Do you already have the V1.31 firmware installed on your D2?
> 
> --Bob




FW Ver 1.31b


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13625248
> 
> 
> Glad I could help, doc. That's a Middle Atlantic faceplate in the photo, precut from their database.



THANKS AGAIN *3no*


The LINK to the DEALER is no good - but the Link to Mid Atlantic is fine.


----------



## bool

I tried all those things with no luck. If I read correctly, some people were able to get it to work with Vista. At least I still have my XP computer.....


ARC made a HUGE difference in my listening area. The sub seems to integrate so much better with all the speakers in movies. I can move around on the couch and it still sounds pretty damn good! I haven't listened to music yet, but most of the time I do it is Analog-Dir so ARC doesn't matter. Master and Commander was awesome! I am pulling out a bunch of movies and going thru scenes and it sounds better than I remember. I noticed someone else saying that the sub no longer shook the house as much and I noticed that too, but there seemed to be more impact at the listening positions. Overall I am very impressed! Now if only I could get that Vista thing taken care of....


The crossover targets seemed reasonable:


FR/FL: 60

Center:70

Surrounds:75

Rears:75

Sub:75


I would post the graphs but do not have an internet connection to the PC I lugged downstairs. Well, off to adjusting the video end.


----------



## bluemark81

Where are you guys getting v1.31a and b? The website shows 1.31.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

V1.31a and V1.31b are test software versions on Anthem's password protected tech support site.


Nick would prefer people NOT use these versions unless instructed to do so by Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'll be traveling until the end of the month and likely won't be on here much until then.


I expect all of you folks to solve all the remaining issues so that all the answers are here waiting for me when I return.


(grin!)


--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13625491
> 
> 
> I'll be traveling until the end of the month and likely won't be on here much until then.
> 
> 
> I expect all of you folks to solve all the remaining issues so that all the answers are here waiting for me when I return.
> 
> 
> (grin!)
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob

Before you leave please answer a question from a neophyte.

When looking at an ARC graph how do you know without looking at the

targets where the crossover is occurring on each graph ?


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13625483
> 
> 
> V1.31a and V1.31b are test software versions on Anthem's password protected tech support site.
> 
> 
> Nick would prefer people NOT use these versions unless instructed to do so by Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



That may have applied to 1.31a, but Nick removed that version from the support site. 1.31b has been posted in the regular D2 software folder without any caveat regarding use.


Enjoy your travels, Bob!


----------



## dlynch34

I have to say I cant get video in any of my other zones but wow when I ran arc the sound to my theater is just amazing now! The depth of field has truely opened up!!


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13625624
> 
> 
> That may have applied to 1.31a, but Nick removed that version from the support site. 1.31b has been posted in the regular D2 software folder without any caveat regarding use.
> 
> 
> Enjoy your travels, Bob!



Really? The website doesn't indicate that it is 1.31b, just 1.31.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13625663
> 
> 
> Really? The website doesn't indicate that it is 1.31b, just 1.31.



Got the 1.31b firmware from Anthem's support site. One pass installation, no problem, works great.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13625919
> 
> 
> Got the 1.31b firmware from Anthem's support site. One pass installation, no problem, works great.



Im frankly a little mystified why some folks "wish" the D2 had 7.1 sound? Has anyone heard a unit that had 7.1 and if so did it sound soo much better then the D2? I would say IMHO no. I am enjoying the sound out of it and cant imagine 2 more channels making all that much more a difference, especially with the ARC integrated in the system. I supose if someone wants 7.1 sound they could go to a box store and get one of those units... but I sure wouldnt do that!! Maybe I am wrong about it, I am no expert. Ill just blissfully sit back and enjoy my D2 and call it a day.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13623887
> 
> 
> Well its in the Box and going out monday to be returned
> 
> 
> Can anyone recommend a decent upscaler to use with the meridian ??
> 
> 
> DVDO maybe VP50 ??




DVDO VP50 is great but HDMI audio is not being passed through this unit. a firmware updte is overdue, I know because I have 2 friends with this unit.


I think you have a bad videoboard, I would return the D2 for repair and give it 1 more chance or at least send it to an authorized dealer and have him do the upgrade, you might be surprised that your problem might go away.


The video quality of the D2 scaler is at par or even a little better than the best of the competition. When the D2 works, I would not trade it with any other pre/pro even with more expensive units. Its just a complete package(except true 7.1 hdmi decoding).


Alvin


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/13625966
> 
> 
> Im frankly a little mystified why some folks "wish" the D2 had 7.1 sound? Has anyone heard a unit that had 7.1 and if so did it sound soo much better then the D2? I would say IMHO no. I am enjoying the sound out of it and cant imagine 2 more channels making all that much more a difference, especially with the ARC integrated in the system. I supose if someone wants 7.1 sound they could go to a box store and get one of those units... but I sure wouldnt do that!! Maybe I am wrong about it, I am no expert. Ill just blissfully sit back and enjoy my D2 and call it a day.



Its not that I have heard 7.1 already. I just wish that the D2 can decode the 2 rear channels discretely and not decoded from the rear channels. There are a few disc that already have this feature and I am sure some more will come out. Preciscion and top notch localization of rear sound information is my goal. I feel decoding will never achieve such level of accuracy. But don't get me wrong, I love what the D2 can do with 5.1 to 7.1.


----------



## EAnderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13621253
> 
> 
> AH HA!
> 
> 
> FINALLY! Someone who's got the same problem I've got!
> 
> 
> Eric, you need to call Anthem Tech Support ASAP and give them the details of what's happening to you (and me).
> 
> 
> What is the vintage of your D2? When did you purchase it (roughly?) Mine was purchased in late summer 2006.
> 
> 
> Anthem believes I have a hardware problem on my video board largely because they aren't getting any complaints from others that this is occurring.
> 
> 
> The settings you place into the Video Source Adjust menu for all inputs are supposed to be saved (on the video board) and restored automatically when you cycle power off and then on -- REGARDLESS of whether or not you did a Save User/Installer Settings prior to that power cycle. What I'm seeing is that all those settings, for all inputs, revert to factory default values. Settings changes made in the Setup menus, on the other hand, DO survive power cycles without problem. And Video Source Adjust menu settings "saved" into User or Installer settings are retained in those memories and can be Loaded to correct for the failure of them to automatically reload on power up.
> 
> 
> The workaround is to establish your Video Source Adjust settings (for all inputs) and then do a Save User Settings and/or Save Installer Settings. These are just two identical memories for saving this stuff. The Saved Settings include all your Setup menu settings and all your Video Source Adjust menu settings. Then, each time you power up, just go into Setup / Save & Restore Settings and do a Load User Settings.
> 
> 
> Now, you aren't supposed to have to do this. Those Video Source Adjust menu settings should be automatically retained over power cycles. But something about V1.31, possibly related to the specific video board you have, is causing these settings to not load in properly on power up.
> 
> 
> Question: Is your display a DVI display?
> 
> 
> Again, it would be VERY helpful if you would call Anthem Tech Support first thing Monday and give them the details on your D2 and related sources and displays so they can sort out what's going wrong for both of us.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you want to use ARC, here's what you do:
> 
> 
> * I'm assuming you ALREADY have V1.31 firmware installed in your D2.
> 
> 
> * Power off your D2, and turn off it's back panel switch. Power off your computer.
> 
> 
> * Connect the serial cable between the D2 and the computer on which you have installed the ARC software.
> 
> 
> * Turn on the D2 back panel switch and your computer, and then turn on the D2 using its remote.
> 
> 
> * Establish all of your Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu settings the way you like them to be. If you have them previously saved in User or Installer settings, just Load them now. Otherwise adjust them manually.
> 
> 
> * Don't bother to Save these adjustments to User or Installer settings. You will be doing that later.
> 
> 
> * Once your settings are all correct, DO NOT POWER OFF YOUR D2!
> 
> 
> * Instead, run Live Video Settings Editor on your PC. Do a "Get" to retrieve your Video Source Adjust menu settings from the D2. Do a "Save" to write those to a file on your PC. Exit Live Video Settings Editor.
> 
> 
> * Run the ARC application. Do a measurement, calculation, and upload of the ARC results to your computer. Doing this will cause the D2 to power off and on a couple of times. The Uploaded ARC results will include changes to the Speaker Configuration and Speaker Calibration portions of your Setup menu (along with other, hidden settings that only ARC can see). And since you have this problem with the Video Source Adjust menu you will lose those changes. But not to worry as you have those changes saved on your PC.
> 
> 
> * When the ARC upload is completed, power up your D2, go into the Setup menu and double check that the cross over values in the Speaker Configuration menus match what ARC (Advanced mode) shows in the Targets window. Also double check that the Speaker Calibration values make sense -- in particular the volume trim for your subwoofer. This is just to help verify that the Upload of the ARC results completed normally. If you spot any problems, redo the ARC Upload until it gets it right.
> 
> 
> * Once you are happy that the Setup / Speaker Configuration and Setup / Speaker Calibration values have been set as expected by the Upload of ARC results, DO NOT POWER OFF YOUR D2!
> 
> 
> * Instead, run Live Video Settings Editor on your PC. "Open" the file on your PC where you previously saved you Video Source Adjust menu settings and do a Load to transfer them to the D2. Exit Live Video Settings Editor. Keep you D2 powered on.
> 
> 
> * Double check that the Video Source Adjust menu for various inputs does indeed now contain the right stuff.
> 
> 
> * At this point you have correctly Uploaded ARC results, you have also Loaded your saved Video Source Adjust menu settings (from the file on your PC), and the rest of your Setup menu items are still in there because they survive power off/on cycles without problem.
> 
> 
> * Now go to Setup / Save & Restore Settings and do a Save User Settings, and for good measure do a Save Installer Settings. This records all of those settings in these 2 memories.
> 
> 
> * Now you can power off/on your D2 as desired. Each time you power it on, the first thing you should do is to go into Setup / Save & Restore Settings and do a Load User Settings. This will retrieve the Video Source Adjust menu settings you saved in there. It will also retrieve all of your saved Setup menu settings, but since these already survive power off/on cycles there's no change there. The uploaded ARC results are stashed separately and apparently they, too, survive power cycles without problem.
> 
> 
> * If you want to redo ARC for any reason, Upload the new ARC results, then run Live Video Settings Editor and Open and Load your file on the PC with your saved Video Source Adjust menu settings. Then, on the D2, Save User/Installer Settings. You are then good to go with power cycles except that you have to manually do your Load User Settings on each power up.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Again this is just a workaround. The problem with Video Source Adjust menu settings not surviving power cycles that you, and I, are facing, is a bug. Anthem is working on it.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob for the quick reply, I'll try your suggestion. My D2 was purchased in early spring of '06. It had v1.0 I then had it upgraded by my dealer to v1.04 and never had any problems except I would get blue screens every now and then when watching sd DVDs. I don't have that problem now, now, I have a bigger one . One display is component and my front PJ has DVI with an HDMI adapter.


Thanks, Eric


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13625919
> 
> 
> Got the 1.31b firmware from Anthem's support site. One pass installation, no problem, works great.



OK. That's the tech (beta) site. Not the main web site. This is not release software, but is beta software. I have installed most of the other beta versions, but I am happy with 1.31 release and as Nick has asked us to not install 1.31a as to have a baseline, I'm going to stick with 1.31 release. I don't have the problems which are addressed with 1.31b, so, there isn't a reason for me to upgrade. Well, the better verification of the ARC upload, but, as I have a good upload, I'll wait to test a version in the future.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13625491
> 
> 
> I'll be traveling until the end of the month and likely won't be on here much until then.
> 
> 
> I expect all of you folks to solve all the remaining issues so that all the answers are here waiting for me when I return.
> 
> 
> (grin!)
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I remember you mentioning that you were offered a video upgrade by your dealer and Anthem. Are you sending in your D2 for the video board upgrade while your out of town. My upgrade took 5 weeks to get from Denver to Anthem. A week or so was due to American/Canadian customs redtape. If you have the green video board I think you would be pleasantly surprised at the improvements that the red video board will make. I know I am.

Just a suggestion, but if you're going to be without your unit till the end of the month you might as well use the time to get it upgraded.

Tom


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13625973
> 
> 
> DVDO VP50 is great but HDMI audio is not being passed through this unit. a firmware updte is overdue, I know because I have 2 friends with this unit.
> 
> 
> I think you have a bad videoboard, I would return the D2 for repair and give it 1 more chance or at least send it to an authorized dealer and have him do the upgrade, you might be surprised that your problem might go away.
> 
> 
> The video quality of the D2 scaler is at par or even a little better than the best of the competition. When the D2 works, I would not trade it with any other pre/pro even with more expensive units. Its just a complete package(except true 7.1 hdmi decoding).
> 
> 
> Alvin



abc


I have it in the box and sending it out tomorrow for a return hopefully for my money back.


After all the troubles I had, and re-reading the constant problems people are having, I realize that this support forum is greatly needed.


When I originally bought my D2, the salesman in LA warned me against Anthem and said that all the installers stay away from them because of all the problems.


If you look at my earliest posts here, I asked if I should have my dealer check the unit before sending or just send. Everyone suggested just send and it worked fine for a few days.


Its a shame there are so many bugs and how hard it is to communicate with the rs232 and other small and constant problems.


I had the VP30 abt102 DVDO and thought it was a good unit. I will pick up a VP50 "B" Stock for a decent price and the DVDO does excellent upscaling.


That together with the Meridian and I've been playing with their software which is comprehensive should provide a nice system.


Its just I've dealt with the problems for weeks, and some days all day long and it has left a bad taste for my Anthem experience.


The MOST frustrating thing is the RS232 communication, and how long it take before you find out whether its working or not working.


I've installed 1.31 arc 1.1 1.31a and 1.31b so many times so many failures and then even when there were successful downloads they bugged and didn't work until it eventually died.


Now it turns on, but doesn't do anything else.....


Its off to a brighter happier Home Cinema Experience for me


----------



## wabbit636

has anyone used the IOgear 232A with windows XP to update the firmware???


If so, were you able to update the driver? For some reason no matter how I try it always tells me that the 2003 driver is the best to use. I have tried to force it to use the newer one but no luck as it reverts to the old one!


Please help...


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/13628179
> 
> 
> has anyone used the IOgear 232A with windows XP to update the firmware???
> 
> 
> If so, were you able to update the driver? For some reason no matter how I try it always tells me that the 2003 driver is the best to use. I have tried to force it to use the newer one but no luck as it reverts to the old one!
> 
> 
> Please help...



OK....all is solved and the firmware has been successfully installed and I now feel like an idiot!


To make a long story short....I bought athe IOGEAR adapter and spent hours of trouble shooting for nothing!!


While trouble shooting on why my adapter wasn't finding my D2 I happened to find a lonely serial port on the back of my computer with nothing plugged into it! I plugged in the serial extension and it worked!


Case closed and a big lesson learned! I followed everything by the book but over saw that my computer actually have a serial!


----------



## wabbit636

Advice for upgrading...


I wrote down all my settings before hand even if I knew I had the live editor and luckily I did! For some reason it didn't load my saved settings so it might not hurt in taking the few minutes to write them down just in case!


----------



## bool

Found my answer


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brewster201* /forum/post/12946352
> 
> 
> Fans were purchased at Tiger Direct for $14.99 each, 120v-12v transformer$5.99, Transformer adapter $1.99, Switch or running light $3.99, borrowed a 4" hole saw, oak, 1/4 plywood and satin black paint. I purchased on EBay a Niles Audio AC-3 Automated Switching System so you just plug the fan in and run a 12v trigger from the D2 to AC-3 so it starts automatically. It works great and you control the amount of cooling!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce




Bruce or anyone who has done something similar to this in the past-


Where do you purchase the transformer and the adapters? I have fans, just want to make sure I get a proper transformer and adapters.


Thanks


----------



## bool

Well, after spending the day w/the D2 and listening to various sources, I am glad I traded up from my AVM50. Everything sounds better, kind of like listening to internet radio stations that are broadcast at multiple rates with the D2 being the 192kbps and the AVM50 being the 96kbps feed. I was reluctant to step up at first, but ARC Pushed me to do it. ARC is just awesome! My wife even was wondering if I bought some new speakers and she would be content listening to TV speakers


As far as the HDMI issues, update issues go, I feel it is par for the course with a component with the amount of flexibility and adjustments available. Anyone who is a tweaker and used to playing around with a PC and pushing the limits knows all about issues.


Video seems to be the same, as would be expected. The new firmware (compared to 1.11) seems to have cleaned up more of the noise without making the image overly soft.


Man I love this thing!


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/13628966
> 
> 
> Well, after spending the day w/the D2 and listening to various sources, I am glad I traded up from my AVM50. Everything sounds better, kind of like listening to internet radio stations that are broadcast at multiple rates with the D2 being the 192kbps and the AVM50 being the 96kbps feed. I was reluctant to step up at first, but ARC Pushed me to do it. ARC is just awesome! My wife even was wondering if I bought some new speakers and she would be content listening to TV speakers
> 
> 
> As far as the HDMI issues, update issues go, I feel it is par for the course with a component with the amount of flexibility and adjustments available. Anyone who is a tweaker and used to playing around with a PC and pushing the limits knows all about issues.
> 
> 
> Video seems to be the same, as would be expected. The new firmware (compared to 1.11) seems to have cleaned up more of the noise without making the image overly soft.
> 
> 
> Man I love this thing!



You say you traded up from the AVM50. I am an AVM50 owner and I'm just wondering how you went about trading up? Was it through the dealer or through Anthem? How much more did you have to pay for the D2? I am very very happy with the AVM50, but if I thought I could improve things even more for a reasonable amount, I might consider it.


----------



## bool

My dealer let me trade it back in minus $900 (which is probably more than I would have received off Audiogon). He said if I was not satisfied with the upgrade, they'd take the D2 back and give me back the AVM50. They will take stuff back and then sell it used (how I got my amps and sub).


----------



## dweltman

So I ordered the ARC and I am thinking of upgrading to v1.31 today. I have an old Windows 98 computer with a serial port which still works (barerly). I also have the Keyspan USB adapter for my XP laptop. Anybody have a strong opinion on which I should use? I read about all the upgrade issues, so I'm a little nervous...


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/13629562
> 
> 
> So I ordered the ARC and I am thinking of upgrading to v1.31 today. I have an old Windows 98 computer with a serial port which still works (barerly). I also have the Keyspan USB adapter for my XP laptop. Anybody have a strong opinion on which I should use? I read about all the upgrade issues, so I'm a little nervous...



The Win98 computer with the serial port will work fine for loading the update. You can't run the ARC software on the Win98 computer, though.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13624127
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from top:
> 
> ButtKicker amp
> 
> monitor
> 
> LED gooseneck lamps
> 
> PS3 with Mid Atlantic faceplate
> 
> Toshiba HD-A35
> 
> HTPC
> 
> DVD case holder slot
> 
> vent
> 
> Moto DCT3412
> 
> fans (my D2 used to run hot before new video board)
> 
> D2
> 
> fans (ditto)
> 
> drawer
> 
> vent
> 
> Classe CAV-180 amp for surrounds and rears
> 
> 
> the rack is in an alcove in the rear of the theater. the amp for the front channels is located in the front of theater.



Awesome! Can you tell me what monitor that is? I've been looking for a little lcd to make setup changes with. Not that easy to find.


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/13629562
> 
> 
> So I ordered the ARC and I am thinking of upgrading to v1.31 today. I have an old Windows 98 computer with a serial port which still works (barerly). I also have the Keyspan USB adapter for my XP laptop. Anybody have a strong opinion on which I should use? I read about all the upgrade issues, so I'm a little nervous...



XP laptop works fine w/the Keyspan for upgrades and ARC.


----------



## shah993




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13624127
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from top:
> 
> ButtKicker amp
> 
> monitor
> 
> LED gooseneck lamps
> 
> PS3 with Mid Atlantic faceplate
> 
> Toshiba HD-A35
> 
> HTPC
> 
> DVD case holder slot
> 
> vent
> 
> Moto DCT3412
> 
> fans (my D2 used to run hot before new video board)
> 
> D2
> 
> fans (ditto)
> 
> drawer
> 
> vent
> 
> Classe CAV-180 amp for surrounds and rears
> 
> 
> the rack is in an alcove in the rear of the theater. the amp for the front channels is located in the front of theater.



I dont have the rack mount kit on the D2 will it still fit the rack like yours?Also the link you gave for the dealer seems not to be working.Thanks


----------



## Ed Weinman

I'm sorry if this is too basic a question, but...I have the D1, not upgraded to the D2 (as yet) and have the 1.21 version...should I install the 1.31? What benefits will it give me over the 1.21?


Thanks, in advance.


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13629888
> 
> 
> Awesome! Can you tell me what monitor that is? I've been looking for a little lcd to make setup changes with. Not that easy to find.



Awesome Rack...










I would also like to know what that LCD is??


Thanx..


----------



## dweltman

Well, if anyone wants followup, I failed twice to upgrade with my old Windows 98 laptop and the direct serial connection. It recognized the D2 but could not complete the Flash upgrade without an error. My XP laptop and the Keyspan USB convertor worked perfectly, thank goodness.


1.31 seems to work a little better for me with the handshake issues upon channel changing. No glitches so far.


Note to self, don't upgrade the firmware when the Anthem office is closed! Now I wait for the ARC to arrive


----------



## dweltman

I am the second owner of my D2, and was not able to save my settings because I don't know the original owners password. Is there any way to reset or delete the password protect on the settings, if you don't know the old password?


I am g lad I wrote everything down, I had to put everything back in by hand after the upgrade....


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/13630853
> 
> 
> I'm sorry if this is too basic a question, but...I have the D1, not upgraded to the D2 (as yet) and have the 1.21 version...should I install the 1.31? What benefits will it give me over the 1.21?
> 
> 
> Thanks, in advance.



It would let you run ARC-1.

If you're planning to purchase the ARC-1,you need to upgrade your firmware to v1.31. I can say, having used ARC-1 for a week or so, it is one of the best $400 investments I've made to my system.

Tom


----------



## Ed Weinman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13631416
> 
> 
> It would let you run ARC-1.
> 
> If you're planning to purchase the ARC-1,you need to upgrade your firmware to v1.31. I can say, having used ARC-1 for a week or so, it is one of the best $400 investments I've made to my system.
> 
> Tom



Tom, thanks for the reply.


Would it do anything else for me if the ARC-1 upgrade is not in the cards right now?


----------



## EAnderson

Why could'nt Anthem just have supplied the serial adapter for USB and a serial cable with the drivers needed? It would have made better sense to have done this rather than having their customers running around scratching heads trying to figure out what would work.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13626026
> 
> 
> Its not that I have heard 7.1 already. I just wish that the D2 can decode the 2 rear channels discretely and not decoded from the rear channels. There are a few disc that already have this feature and I am sure some more will come out. Preciscion and top notch localization of rear sound information is my goal. I feel decoding will never achieve such level of accuracy. But don't get me wrong, I love what the D2 can do with 5.1 to 7.1.



Just catching up on posts. There is such a small percentage of discs with it and no guarantee and seemingly little motivation for more, I am glad I am not worried about it. Sure I would take it if offered, but wouldn't sacrifice the D2 for it.


As an example there are over 850 BR's on Amazon and over 500 HD DVD's and probably 

If BD upped the 7.1 audio production 10 fold there would still only be able 10% of disks going forward and in reality it would only even have a chance of a noticeable difference on big blockbuster action movies of where there are only a few a year anyway.


I am one of the first ones who would do an upgrade do to "what might I be missing syndrome" (thus my upgrade from the AVM 20 to the D2 last year), but this doesn't get me going at all.


Of course there is no harm in wishing it was supported.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13627820
> 
> 
> abc
> 
> 
> I have it in the box and sending it out tomorrow for a return hopefully for my money back.
> 
> 
> After all the troubles I had, and re-reading the constant problems people are having, I realize that this support forum is greatly needed.
> 
> 
> When I originally bought my D2, the salesman in LA warned me against Anthem and said that all the installers stay away from them because of all the problems.
> 
> 
> If you look at my earliest posts here, I asked if I should have my dealer check the unit before sending or just send. Everyone suggested just send and it worked fine for a few days.
> 
> 
> Its a shame there are so many bugs and how hard it is to communicate with the rs232 and other small and constant problems.
> 
> 
> I had the VP30 abt102 DVDO and thought it was a good unit. I will pick up a VP50 "B" Stock for a decent price and the DVDO does excellent upscaling.
> 
> 
> That together with the Meridian and I've been playing with their software which is comprehensive should provide a nice system.
> 
> 
> Its just I've dealt with the problems for weeks, and some days all day long and it has left a bad taste for my Anthem experience.
> 
> 
> The MOST frustrating thing is the RS232 communication, and how long it take before you find out whether its working or not working.
> 
> 
> I've installed 1.31 arc 1.1 1.31a and 1.31b so many times so many failures and then even when there were successful downloads they bugged and didn't work until it eventually died.
> 
> 
> Now it turns on, but doesn't do anything else.....
> 
> 
> Its off to a brighter happier Home Cinema Experience for me



Good luck with your Meridian. Hopefully it doesn't need any FW updates and works well for your needs.


I don't understand how you think scanning an owners forum and finding people asking questions about issues they are having represents somehow that Anthem products are not excellent. The proportion of people posting questions here and the proportion of Anthem owners with issues is completely independent and has no correlation at all. 99.9% of owners probably have never even heard of AVS lol.


Check ANY forum for ANY product anywhere near as sophisticated as the D2 where there are upgrades and enhancements and you will find the same things. There are a bazillion environmental variables for anyone doing FW updates.


For example your surprised you Bricked your D2 when you killed the update the last time mid stream? Anthem cannot be responsible for stuff like that. I have no doubt given your unique situation there there was some kind of compatibility issue with your D2 and your electrical service, or maybe it was just buggy, but I can't believe it couldn't have been solved with an exchange with Anthem.


I for one am very thankful that they continue to stive to improve and upgrade their products and then happily support us when we run into an issue (which are probably 99% our own faults for one reason or another). They cannot test every possible scenario and we assume a level of responsibility when we upgrade.


Anyway it's unfortunate that its been such a frustrating experience for you and best of luck with that Meridian.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/13629562
> 
> 
> So I ordered the ARC and I am thinking of upgrading to v1.31 today. I have an old Windows 98 computer with a serial port which still works (barerly). I also have the Keyspan USB adapter for my XP laptop. Anybody have a strong opinion on which I should use? I read about all the upgrade issues, so I'm a little nervous...



I have not had any problems with my XP and the Keyspan USB adapter. I also have a desktop which has Windows 2000 with a serial, and it work flawlessly too as far as doing the firmware upgrades. However, it didn't work for the ARC.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/13631052
> 
> 
> Awesome Rack...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would also like to know what that LCD is??
> 
> 
> Thanx..



Dumb question - what is the best way to hook up a monitor like that? Since there isn't a second HDMI-out, do you use the component out? If so, are you able to view HDMI sources with the LCD?


----------



## mr_fitz

I noticed after performing the arc-1 calibration that my setting for music had a sub phase of 65 degrees. Is it possible that the calibration changed it for me? On movie it is still at zero. I do not remember ever playing with this before but it is possible I was messing around with a long time ago.


Second question is whether or not I should put it back to zero and rerun the test tones or leave it at 65 deg? If I did have it set to 65 deg before the calibration would it be worse to set it back to zero? Did it take into consideration that it was at 65 deg when performing the test tones?


Thanks


John


By the way I was blown away by the improvements it did to the sound in my room.


My first run of tests gave me some funky results with xover points for my fronts of 160 but I reran the test and made sure I seperated the mic position by at least 18-24" instead of 12" and I achieved much better results. My fronts were now at 35.


Imaging was vastly improved, much better transition from front to back as well as left to right and vise versa, speech was much clearer, bass blended much better with the overall sound and was less boomy, background noises were much cleaner and detailed. The best decision I ever made was to buy the arc-1 for my system. It has made the greatest improvement in my ht for the least amount of money with the exception of my ps3.


----------



## scottshd

having some problems with arc. worked fine first few times, today tried running it again and got lots of error messages. frequency sweeps first time were 5 sweeps per speaker, today it done 8 and7 on some speakers5 on others. a few times 5 and about a16th. also took many times to get it to upload properly sometimes it put some strange crossovers in or would have movie correct and music wrong. and yes I did unplug the mike before doing the upload. I'm using windows xp with a keyspan usb to serial adapter. guess I'll call Nick tomarow and see what he thinks.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/13632878
> 
> 
> having some problems with arc. worked fine first few times, today tried running it again and got lots of error messages. frequency sweeps first time were 5 sweeps per speaker, today it done 8 and7 on some speakers5 on others. a few times 5 and about a16th. also took many times to get it to upload properly sometimes it put some strange crossovers in or would have movie correct and music wrong. and yes I did unplug the mike before doing the upload. I'm using windows xp with a keyspan usb to serial adapter. guess I'll call Nick tomorrow and see what he thinks.



Are you sure everything was the same with your setup each time?


The weirdest thing about any ARC-1 / FW issues we seem to be seeing is that it often appears that it works fine sometimes and not fine others. It just doesn't make sense.


As a PM that does IT development projects and deals with custom code, testing and bug fixes it suggests highly that something is changing somewhere between usages or else the software of way to flaky in some scenarios.


I just don't understand how some people NEVER have an issue, some right off the bat, and some people sometimes do and sometimes do not.


It is also possible that just by having run ARC or the 1.31 update then when the code runs again in the state of having already been uploaded to the D2 that THIS environmental change is enough to change the paradigm enough to fail in certain situations, but you would think that Anthem would have caught that easily so it seems unlikely.


Unfortunately, an issue that happens sometimes and not others is the worst possible one to figure out as you need to try all the variables until you can isolate what the route cause is.


Anyway, just trying to reason it out loud.


I would suggest that when you run either ARC or a FW update successfully to note down how you have things setup (PC uses, Connection, cables, software running, OS, etc, etc. so you can be sure to duplicate that if you need to run it again).


If anyone is running ARC, uploading the results, running again right away without changing anything and having consistent failures, its just plain weird (Not sure if that is the exact case for anyone).


I haven't seen anywhere near those types of errors. Everything has worked every time. I have been told a specific speaker wasn't picked up once in a while, but when prompted to repeat that speaker it works. I have never had an upload problem other than the time I tried to surf the net while it was running and so I figured that was my bad also because it worked perfectly when it told me to just hit the upload button again.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13627820
> 
> 
> abc
> 
> 
> I have it in the box and sending it out tomorrow for a return hopefully for my money back.
> 
> 
> After all the troubles I had, and re-reading the constant problems people are having, I realize that this support forum is greatly needed.
> 
> 
> When I originally bought my D2, the salesman in LA warned me against Anthem and said that all the installers stay away from them because of all the problems.
> 
> 
> If you look at my earliest posts here, I asked if I should have my dealer check the unit before sending or just send. Everyone suggested just send and it worked fine for a few days.
> 
> 
> Its a shame there are so many bugs and how hard it is to communicate with the rs232 and other small and constant problems.
> 
> 
> I had the VP30 abt102 DVDO and thought it was a good unit. I will pick up a VP50 "B" Stock for a decent price and the DVDO does excellent upscaling.
> 
> 
> That together with the Meridian and I've been playing with their software which is comprehensive should provide a nice system.
> 
> 
> Its just I've dealt with the problems for weeks, and some days all day long and it has left a bad taste for my Anthem experience.
> 
> 
> The MOST frustrating thing is the RS232 communication, and how long it take before you find out whether its working or not working.
> 
> 
> I've installed 1.31 arc 1.1 1.31a and 1.31b so many times so many failures and then even when there were successful downloads they bugged and didn't work until it eventually died.
> 
> 
> Now it turns on, but doesn't do anything else.....
> 
> 
> Its off to a brighter happier Home Cinema Experience for me



misterdoggy,


Sorry to hear of your continued problems with your D2. If you recall, I did mention that the first unit I received had a defective HDMI port and was exchanged by Anthem with absolutely no hassle. My vote was to have the dealer try the unit out. It sounds as though the D2s power supply is sensitive to your power environment, or maybe there's another factor too. My experience with Anthem's tech support has been spectacular, I've been really impressed. I think it's unfair to generalize and say the unit has issues and/or is buggy. I hope you're happy with the Meridian. As other's have mentioned, the best quality sound is achieved by minimizing the number of analog to digital conversions that are in the path, and using high quality DACs in the output stage. I would easily take the HDMI connection of the D2 over analog any day (esp. with a Sony BD player).


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13624127
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from top:
> 
> ButtKicker amp
> 
> monitor
> 
> LED gooseneck lamps
> 
> PS3 with Mid Atlantic faceplate
> 
> Toshiba HD-A35
> 
> HTPC
> 
> DVD case holder slot
> 
> vent
> 
> Moto DCT3412
> 
> fans (my D2 used to run hot before new video board)
> 
> D2
> 
> fans (ditto)
> 
> drawer
> 
> vent
> 
> Classe CAV-180 amp for surrounds and rears
> 
> 
> the rack is in an alcove in the rear of the theater. the amp for the front channels is located in the front of theater.



nice rack


----------



## misterdoggy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13632153
> 
> 
> Good luck with your Meridian. Hopefully it doesn't need any FW updates and works well for your needs.
> 
> 
> I don't understand how you think scanning an owners forum and finding people asking questions about issues they are having represents somehow that Anthem products are not excellent. The proportion of people posting questions here and the proportion of Anthem owners with issues is completely independent and has no correlation at all. 99.9% of owners probably have never even heard of AVS lol.
> 
> 
> Check ANY forum for ANY product anywhere near as sophisticated as the D2 where there are upgrades and enhancements and you will find the same things. There are a bazillion environmental variables for anyone doing FW updates.
> 
> 
> For example your surprised you Bricked your D2 when you killed the update the last time mid stream? Anthem cannot be responsible for stuff like that. I have no doubt given your unique situation there there was some kind of compatibility issue with your D2 and your electrical service, or maybe it was just buggy, but I can't believe it couldn't have been solved with an exchange with Anthem.
> 
> 
> I for one am very thankful that they continue to stive to improve and upgrade their products and then happily support us when we run into an issue (which are probably 99% our own faults for one reason or another). They cannot test every possible scenario and we assume a level of responsibility when we upgrade.
> 
> 
> Anyway it's unfortunate that its been such a frustrating experience for you and best of luck with that Meridian.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Richard and All Others who have been so nice and Helpful.


I thank you all for your support and wish you all


The great fun that this hobby provides


Maybe at some future point I will come back and Try Anthem again


All the best

Bruce


----------



## izzihd

Hi Mr. Fitz,


I had the same question. See this post for an answer:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post13589468 


Good luck


----------



## ankita

I have a PS3 and avm 50. I have got LPCM through PS3 into anthem. Is there any way on anthem display to make sure I am listening to lossless format ? It just shows 5.1 on display. thanks

ankita


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13626484
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I remember you mentioning that you were offered a video upgrade by your dealer and Anthem. Are you sending in your D2 for the video board upgrade while your out of town. My upgrade took 5 weeks to get from Denver to Anthem. A week or so was due to American/Canadian customs redtape. If you have the green video board I think you would be pleasantly surprised at the improvements that the red video board will make. I know I am.
> 
> Just a suggestion, but if you're going to be without your unit till the end of the month you might as well use the time to get it upgraded.
> 
> Tom



I have the old hot-running video board. Is Anthem performing video board replacements if there's nothing else wrong with the unit?


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ankita* /forum/post/13634762
> 
> 
> I have a PS3 and avm 50. I have got LPCM through PS3 into anthem. Is there any way on anthem display to make sure I am listening to lossless format ? It just shows 5.1 on display. thanks
> 
> ankita



If you press the select/enter button in the middle of the Anthem remote, it cycles through a bunch of status displays. One of the displays is the audio input signal. If the anthem is receiving a PCM signal, it will show the number of channels, resolution (bits per sample), and sampling frequency. Some of the Dolby TrueHD soundtracks are encoded at 96 KHz sampling frequency, that's one way to tell. There's probably a status display on the PS3 that will show the audio format as well. Hope that helps.


----------



## panners

I have the Denon 3800 on order and was wondering, when the Blu-ray is set to LPCM for DTS-HD MA and all the other new audio, will the D2 out put 7.1. I have a 7.1 speaker set up. Will I get true DTS-HD MA????


Shane


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/13636519
> 
> 
> I have the Denon 3800 on order and was wondering, when the Blu-ray is set to LPCM for DTS-HD MA and all the other new audio, will the D2 out put 7.1. I have a 7.1 speaker set up. Will I get true DTS-HD MA????
> 
> 
> Shane



The D2 does not do discrete 7.1 over HDMI - it will do a conversion from 5.1 to 7.1 that is supposed to be pretty close.


See:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt....1#post9612195


----------



## bool

You will get true DTS-HD MA, just not 7.1. Most discs are only 5.1 and the last 2 channels are matrixed anyways so it will not be an issue. When more discrete 7.1 discs come out, it may become an issue...we will see.


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/13636610
> 
> 
> When more discrete 7.1 discs come out, it may become an issue...we will see.



We'll all have D3s and HDMI 1.5 by then anyway!










Bart


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Awesome! Can you tell me what monitor that is? I've been looking for a little lcd to make setup changes with. Not that easy to find.



Can't tell you until I get home from overseas trip on Thursday. I do recall that it was intended for automotive applications, e.g. headrest installation. I used an old 12vdc wall wart I had lying around to power it. But... that was over a year ago and that market has really evolved. You can do much better today. Do a google product search on TFT headrest monitor, then sort by price. They seem to start at about $50. You'll have to buy a custom rackmount faceplate from Middle Atlantic or cut out a blank one if you are handy with tools...



> Quote:
> I dont have the rack mount kit on the D2 will it still fit the rack like yours?Also the link you gave for the dealer seems not to be working.



I ordered my D2 in the rack mount configuration, but I recall at least one other poster saying that the rack mount ears are a bolt-on, so ask your dealer if you can purchase a conversion kit.


The link is being censored by AVS for some reason. I just tried to put the dealer name in this post and it did the same thing. Maybe they don't get along? The dealer is AV Alive without the space, so just replace the ****** in the link with their name.



> Quote:
> Dumb question - what is the best way to hook up a monitor like that? Since there isn't a second HDMI-out, do you use the component out? If so, are you able to view HDMI sources with the LCD?



These are really cheap monitors that use composite video. I keep it connected to my cable DVR most of the time so I can set up a recording without powering up the projector. I have also used it for monitoring the Velodyne DD15 setup and for D2 config, but I find the D2 front panel just as easy to work with.


----------



## TiVolution




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhrhodes* /forum/post/13636254
> 
> 
> If you press the select/enter button in the middle of the Anthem remote, it cycles through a bunch of status displays. One of the displays is the audio input signal. If the anthem is receiving a PCM signal, it will show the number of channels, resolution (bits per sample), and sampling frequency. Some of the Dolby TrueHD soundtracks are encoded at 96 KHz sampling frequency, that's one way to tell. There's probably a status display on the PS3 that will show the audio format as well. Hope that helps.



Press the "Select" button on your PS3 remote to see the signal that it is outputting. Then compare that to the Anthem as descirbed above to verify. Remember that the PS3 defaults to the lower resoution audio signal in order to maximize compatibility with older systems. Therefore, you'll have to switch to the PCM or TrueHD track once the Blu Ray disk loads before the PS3 will output the best audio (at least I can't figure out how to get the PS3 to automatically default to the lossless track on its own.)


Finally, as you've probably heard, we're soon to get a new firmware update that will enable the PS3 to decode DTS Master Audio and DTS High Resolution Audio ... finally completing the PS3's support of all the advanced audio formats!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13636914
> 
> 
> 
> The link is being censored by AVS for some reason..



I figured as much.


I went to my local Mid Atlantic dealer today and ordered

a PS3 Chassis. I have always made my own. I guess this

means I'm really getting LAZY


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13636914
> 
> 
> Can't tell you until I get home from overseas trip on Thursday. I do recall that it was intended for automotive applications, e.g. headrest installation.



I ordered a Coby TF-TV505 5" TV Monitor over a year ago.


Now they seem to only sell the 7" Version


Coby TF-DVD7050


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13636053
> 
> 
> I have the old hot-running video board. Is Anthem performing video board replacements if there's nothing else wrong with the unit?



My board was malfunctioning when checked out by my dealer. When Anthem checked it out they said it was OK, but replaced it anyway. Talk to your dealer since it would have to go through them first. I don't think they would replace it if its not malfunctioning, but the worst they could say is,"no".

Tom


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/13631685
> 
> 
> Tom, thanks for the reply.
> 
> 
> Would it do anything else for me if the ARC-1 upgrade is not in the cards right now?



Ask Anthem tech. I'm 99% sure most of the firmware upgrades were to correct video and hdmi related problems. I don't know if it adressed any 'audio' issues.

If you enjoy the audio from your D1, and I bet you do, the ARC-1 is a worthwhile investment to consider. I had tweeked my D2 as much as I could with a Radio Shack spl meter and a tape measure and my 'finely tuned' ears, and had it sounding pretty good. The ARC-1 has taken it up a couple of notches. IMHO its an investment to seriously consider.

Tom


----------



## Ed Weinman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13638613
> 
> 
> Ask Anthem tech. I'm 99% sure most of the firmware upgrades were to correct video and hdmi related problems. I don't know if it adressed any 'audio' issues.
> 
> If you enjoy the audio from your D1, and I bet you do, the ARC-1 is a worthwhile investment to consider. I had tweeked my D2 as much as I could with a Radio Shack spl meter and a tape measure and my 'finely tuned' ears, and had it sounding pretty good. The ARC-1 has taken it up a couple of notches. IMHO its an investment to seriously consider.
> 
> Tom



Tom, thanks, and...yes, the sound is wonderful!


----------



## dweltman

Does anyone here own the new Denon 3800 BD player? Can anyone report on whether the 24/23.98 issue that has caused so much consternation on the BD thread for this Denon is an issue with the D2?


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/13639941
> 
> 
> Does anyone here own the new Denon 3800 BD player? Can anyone report on whether the 24/23.98 issue that has caused so much consternation on the BD thread for this Denon is an issue with the D2?




If your asking if the D2 will accept it, yes. The PS3 outputs the same timing and I have no problems with 1080/24 to my projector. Just use one of the video configs to output 1080/24 as the same input for Blu-ray playback.



Note: You will have to go back to 1080/60 if you watch anything other then film based discs.


Jeremy


----------



## EAnderson

Ok, after two weeks of the ARC sitting around my house I finally ran the software. I have to say that I'm somewhat disapointed with the results. Perhaps my expectations were too high, but now the bass is way-way too boomy and the volume is very low. The sound was very loud at around 13-12 on the D2, now I can drop the volume to around 6-4.5 and not with the same dynamic intensity. I prefered the sound of the pre-ARC of the D2. I truely hope I'm doing something wrong here.

I also noticed my subs polarity had been reversed and I don't understand why. I had better soundstage, imaging and more 3-D depth pre ARC-1. I've reran the procedure several times with different results from the same premarked locations and mic heights. What am I doing? What am I doing wrong? I don't know how to verify that the D2 loaded the correct info. from my notebook. All this after trying to connect to the D2 with various serial/usb adapters, which I still for the life of me, don't understand why Anthem could'nt just include the adapter/serial cable and driver with their 6500.00 products. Even cheapo DVD players at least give you a freebie cable to get you started, I mean really, how much could it cost Anthem for the correct adapters to "upgrade" ie; fix their software bugs?

Granted, Pierro at Anthem has been really super helpful, bless him. However, with every problem I've ever encountered with this product, I think I may have been better off with my old Yamaha DSP-a1/ Theta Dreadnaught combo. I spent more time enjoying it rather than on a forum trying to figure out fixes for all the various problems and software bugs. I feel like we're all Anthem's beta testers for the D3, leaving the rest of us in the dust. I know,I know, I'm just blowing off steam, but??

PLEASE, PLEASE tell me I'm wrong, show me the light at the end of the tunnel. If you've been down this same path before and know the way, tell me, so that I/others may follow you to sonic bliss.


Thanks for any help in advance.

Eric


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13641773
> 
> 
> Ok, after two weeks of the ARC sitting around my house I finally ran the software. I have to say that I'm somewhat disapointed with the results.



Just to make sure, you have the Room EQ set to On in your source setup that you are testing?


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13636914
> 
> 
> Can't tell you until I get home from overseas trip on Thursday. I do recall that it was intended for automotive applications, e.g. headrest installation. I used an old 12vdc wall wart I had lying around to power it. .



Thanks for the info. I've found a couple of portable dvd players with video inputs too. Looking for something cheap that will take an svideo. I'll keep on lookin....


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13637528
> 
> 
> I ordered a Coby TF-TV505 5" TV Monitor over a year ago.
> 
> 
> Now they seem to only sell the 7" Version
> 
> 
> Coby TF-DVD7050



Looks promising, what kind of video input does it have? e.g. coax, svideo...


----------



## Rayjr

Here is picture of my monitor solution, I have had this in my system for about 3 years. It is a 15"LCD TV monitor..a friend of mine bought one on ebay.









It works great.

you can also look at car headrest TV monitors if you want something smaller..most of those are like 7"


Later

RayJr


----------



## abc999

PS3 2.3 firmware is up and its works fine with the D2. tried X-men last stand. display says DTS-ma 6.1 at 48khz.


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13643089
> 
> 
> PS3 2.3 firmware is up and its works fine with the D2. tried X-men last stand. display says DTS-ma 6.1 at 48khz.



Glad to hear it works...can't wait this evening to update the PS3 and try some DTS-MA titles!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13642070
> 
> 
> Looks promising, what kind of video input does it have? e.g. coax, svideo...



I use composite video and standard 2-channel audio.


I use it to program my DVRs without turning on the whole theater.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13641773
> 
> 
> Ok, after two weeks of the ARC sitting around my house I finally ran the software. I have to say that I'm somewhat disapointed with the results. Perhaps my expectations were too high, but now the bass is way-way too boomy and the volume is very low. The sound was very loud at around 13-12 on the D2, now I can drop the volume to around 6-4.5 and not with the same dynamic intensity. I prefered the sound of the pre-ARC of the D2. I truely hope I'm doing something wrong here.
> 
> I also noticed my subs polarity had been reversed and I don't understand why. I had better soundstage, imaging and more 3-D depth pre ARC-1. I've reran the procedure several times with different results from the same premarked locations and mic heights. What am I doing? What am I doing wrong? I don't know how to verify that the D2 loaded the correct info. from my notebook. All this after trying to connect to the D2 with various serial/usb adapters, which I still for the life of me, don't understand why Anthem could'nt just include the adapter/serial cable and driver with their 6500.00 products. Even cheapo DVD players at least give you a freebie cable to get you started, I mean really, how much could it cost Anthem for the correct adapters to "upgrade" ie; fix their software bugs?
> 
> Granted, Pierro at Anthem has been really super helpful, bless him. However, with every problem I've ever encountered with this product, I think I may have been better off with my old Yamaha DSP-a1/ Theta Dreadnaught combo. I spent more time enjoying it rather than on a forum trying to figure out fixes for all the various problems and software bugs. I feel like we're all Anthem's beta testers for the D3, leaving the rest of us in the dust. I know,I know, I'm just blowing off steam, but??
> 
> PLEASE, PLEASE tell me I'm wrong, show me the light at the end of the tunnel. If you've been down this same path before and know the way, tell me, so that I/others may follow you to sonic bliss.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help in advance.
> 
> Eric




I know I had issues with my original values when my mic position was only a foot apart each time. I moved it closer to 2 feet between mic positions and that fixed it.


I noticed the exact opposite with the volume, I don't have to turn up the volume anywhere near as high to get the same loudness after arc calibration.


John


----------



## mr_fitz

I thought I would post my original results then my properly positioned results.


Drastic change.


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/13640154
> 
> 
> If your asking if the D2 will accept it, yes. The PS3 outputs the same timing and I have no problems with 1080/24 to my projector. Just use one of the video configs to output 1080/24 as the same input for Blu-ray playback.
> 
> 
> 
> Note: You will have to go back to 1080/60 if you watch anything other then film based discs.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



I think that the PS3 outputs the "correct"23.98. So experience with that unit, which I also own, will not confirm that the Denon 3800 plays well with the D2. I was hoping to hear from someone who owns both. I think Bob P. wants to also, because I think he lusts after the Denon also


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13643567
> 
> 
> I know I had issues with my original values when my mic position was only a foot apart each time. I moved it closer to 2 feet between mic positions and that fixed it.
> 
> 
> I noticed the exact opposite with the volume, I don't have to turn up the volume anywhere near as high to get the same loudness after arc calibration.
> 
> 
> John



I second that about the volume level. My measuement positions were a tad over a foot apart with no problems.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/13643659
> 
> 
> I second that about the volume level. My measuement positions were a tad over a foot apart with no problems.



Me too. And also, in my case ARC significantly reduced "boominess."


----------



## Brucemck2

Is there any published material, or even informed speculation, about


(a) the differences between Audyssey's solution and ARC solution, and,


(b) how ARC is handling measurements across multiple locations (in particular, is it "averaging" the measurments, or, is it doing cluster analysis, or ??)


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brucemck2* /forum/post/13645148
> 
> 
> Is there any published material, or even informed speculation, about
> 
> 
> (a) the differences between Audyssey's solution and ARC solution, and,
> 
> 
> (b) how ARC is handling measurements across multiple locations (in particular, is it "averaging" the measurments, or, is it doing cluster analysis, or ??)



One significant difference is that Audyssey Pro (the only comparable version) does not let the end-user do anything. You have to hire a consutant. Which means if you want to play around with options - like speaker placement, mic placement, etc., you're screwed.


This alone is a major, major advantage to ARC.


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13645276
> 
> 
> One significant difference is that Audyssey Pro (the only comparable version) does not let the end-user do anything. You have to hire a consutant. Which means if you want to play around with options - like speaker placement, mic placement, etc., you're screwed.
> 
> 
> This alone is a major, major advantage to ARC.



I agree but I have the audyssey pro eq and I also have the installers kit so I am able to play around & tweak it as much as I want. They don't give the installers kit but they do give them for special reasons.


Its excellent that Anthem sells it to the public. One major reason why Audyssey doesn't sell it to the public is to ensure every install is perfect and professionally done. The only problem is if you move a speaker, upgrade your home theatre furniture, etc you need to have it redone to have the perfect results!


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/13645494
> 
> 
> I agree but I have the audyssey pro eq and I also have the installers kit so I am able to play around & tweak it as much as I want. They don't give the installers kit but they do give them for special reasons.
> 
> 
> Its excellent that Anthem sells it to the public. One major reason why Audyssey doesn't sell it to the public is to ensure every install is perfect and professionally done. The only problem is if you move a speaker, upgrade your home theatre furniture, etc you need to have it redone to have the perfect results!



You lucky fella, I've been looking high and low to find a supplier for the hardware and software, wouldn't even consider one without the other.


I guess not being able to purchase the Audyssey = Upgrade to D2.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13641773
> 
> 
> Ok, after two weeks of the ARC sitting around my house I finally ran the software. I have to say that I'm somewhat disapointed with the results. Perhaps my expectations were too high, but now the bass is way-way too boomy and the volume is very low...



My first trials were way too boomy as well, but the problem turned out to be the Velo DD15's self-EQ'ed response was "misleading" ARC to set a really crappy target curve for the sub. I had much better results after re-EQing the DD15 for a flat solo response curve. Other posters have reported better results when totally disabling their DD1x's EQ. You may not have a DD1x, but you could have a measured sub response which is giving ARC fits (not criticizing your sub, maybe room position for example).


If you would screen capture your ARC results and post them here, I expect one or more of the posters who have become proficient at reading these graphs could offer some advice.


----------



## tngiloy

Eric,

I had the same problems you are experiencing, but was able to get good results eventually following these suggestions.

Get a good usb/serial adapter if you don't have a serial connection on the computer you're using. I have a Keyspan and it works fine.

Do your mic placements at least 2 feet apart. The first mic position is the primary listening position and the ARC will customize the settings for that position. I made the mistake on my first few runs of placing the mic positions very close together, only a foot apart. Since I am the primary listener and I sit my butt on the couch in the same place to watch and listen I mistakenly thought that ARC would get a better reading by placing all the mic sweeps near the first position, but I was getting strange crossover settings. When I placed the #2-#5 mic sweeps 2+ feet from the primary spot I got much more realistic crossover settings for my speakers. You can check what your crossover setting have been calculated by opening ARC in 'custom/advanced', under 'file' opening the saved 'Anthem Room Correction', then click on 'targets' and this will show you what crossovers should be uploading to your D2. If the settings seem whacky try running the sweeps again.

If your crossovers seem reasonable on the ARC file but are not uploading to your D2 correctly- you can check what has been uploaded by going into your D2 'set up' menu, under 'speaker configuration, click on 'bass management-movie and -music'. As you scan down the x-over settings for your speakers should be the same as in the ARC targets. If they are not the same then the uploading failed. Unplug the mic usb so only the usb/serial or serial connection to the D2 is plugged in and try uploading again. Having only the one connection allowed me to upload correctly after numerous failed tries with the mic connected.

Don't give up. The ARC-1 will improve your sound, but it sounds to me like you are either getting erroneous calculations in your ARC-1 or the uploading isn't right. Or both.

I hope this helps.

Tom


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13643520
> 
> 
> I use composite video and standard 2-channel audio.
> 
> 
> I use it to program my DVRs without turning on the whole theater.



Can you use it to view other sources from the D2? I'd love to be able to do things like PS3 and AppleTV updates without turning on the whole system.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13647547
> 
> 
> Can you use it to view other sources from the D2? I'd love to be able to do things like PS3 and AppleTV updates without turning on the whole system.



As long as the D2 can out Composite Video.


I only use HDMI out of the D2.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

when the D2 is being fed a 5.1 source via HDMI or even a 6 channel PCM feed should I not be able to access multiple surround modes?


Currently I only have a access to THX on or off and the 5.1 mode = none.


Is that correct?


----------



## scottshd

RROSEN thanks for the reply. talked to anthem and they suggested to try and reload 1.31 and see if that cures it. have'nt done that yet, perhaps this weekend I'll have time to run arc again and see if problems are solved. one other time I had to reinstall 1.29j that time everything was fine for about a week, then lost video I think reloaded 1.29j and everythig was fine. thanks scott


----------



## jayray

Press MODE button, just below the 9 key and then use the curser keys. THX Ultra 2 should be a choice or Dolby PLIIx. Both will matrix the extra channels over to the rears. Works for all my 6 and 7.1 films. I use it for 5.1 to give me more channels. Work very well.


----------



## EAnderson

Thanks everyone for your advice! I'll have to try moving the mic postions further apart from each other. I sometimes get caught up in the smallest of details that I don't see the big picture. I did have the mic postioned at one foot from each pre-marked mic position with the tip of the mic at exactly at the measured ear height. I have a Martin Logan speaker set-up consisting of Odysseys for the mains, the old Arius i as my rears with a Cinema center channel and for bass I have the Desent sub. I don't think my sub has EQ of any kind. I will run the ARC again at different mic positions. I did'nt try it at any other positions, so I'll see tomorrow, and let you all know what my results are, as I do not know how to post the graphic measurements here.

And yes I did have it on, on = boomy and low volume, off = almost like it was before.


Thanks again to all for any help

Eric


----------



## panners

I just downloaded the PS3 DTS HD firmware, and put in Predator. What should the Anthem be set to? The display on my screen says "5.1 Dolby PLIIx + THX" and the PS3 display says DTS HD MA 48kHz and 4.0mbps. Is this right. Or what should my audio on the D2 be set at?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/13650767
> 
> 
> I just downloaded the PS3 DTS HD firmware, and put in Predator. What should the Anthem be set to? The display on my screen says "5.1 Dolby PLIIx + THX" and the PS3 display says DTS HD MA 48kHz and 4.0mbps. Is this right. Or what should my audio on the D2 be set at?



The PS3 needs to be Set to PCM.


The Anthem needs NO SETTING.


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/13650767
> 
> 
> I just downloaded the PS3 DTS HD firmware, and put in Predator. What should the Anthem be set to? The display on my screen says "5.1 Dolby PLIIx + THX" and the PS3 display says DTS HD MA 48kHz and 4.0mbps. Is this right. Or what should my audio on the D2 be set at?



I did the same today. On the D2 it says 6 CH 48khz and DTS MA on the PS3 so your good to go! I don't think it matters what you set the D2. Its personal preference but I have mine on 5.1 cinema THX.


Cheers


----------



## panners

Cool, So as long as the PS3 is set to PCM it doesn't matter what the Anthem is set to. Same should go for when my Denon 3800 comes in?


BTW Thanks for the help guys! Much appreciated.


----------



## lalarsons

Our ARC finally landed on 4/14. Followed 1.31 loading instructions as written, then ran the ARC software. Of course I presumed that because audio has been such a passion for 30+ years, and I already had "the ear", we would experience only modest improvements. I couldn't have been more wrong; the improvements to tonal balance, timbre, soundstage, nuances and overall musical impact are nothing short of phenomenal. To those still on the fence.......catch the wave


----------



## panners




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/13650971
> 
> 
> I did the same today. On the D2 it says 6 CH 48khz and DTS MA on the PS3 so your good to go! I don't think it matters what you set the D2. Its personal preference but I have mine on 5.1 cinema THX.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Where on the D2 did you see " 6CH 48khz"? and how did you get it to display that? Sorry for all the questions i'm new to the D2. I mean Im still waiting for my keyspan to arrive so I can do the update LOL


----------



## uppacreek

panners, just press the Status (or Select) button on the remote control to scroll through the audio/video input/output settings.


----------



## tranle

How long does it take these days to receive the ARC kit ?


----------



## EAnderson

I went keyspan's website looking for the "recomended" serial adapter. The only thing that I can find is a little black box with a serial port status lights and I guess a usb cable on the other end I think it was $40. Is this what others are using? I've been using a serial adapter from Radio Shack, which I think was the same price. I have'nt had any noticeable issues with it that I speak of. Anyway, if anyone has a model number, perhaps I'll purchase Keyspan's cable to be on the same page with everyone else.


Thanks, Eric


PS, I believe it was a high speed serial adapter marked usa-19hs. Is this it?


----------



## dmorse4765

Yes, that is the one.


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13650963
> 
> 
> The PS3 needs to be Set to PCM.
> 
> 
> The Anthem needs NO SETTING.



Dr-


Just to clarify, does the Anthem NEED to be set to NONE or it doesn't really matter what it is set at?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/13655531
> 
> 
> Dr-
> 
> 
> Just to clarify, does the Anthem NEED to be set to NONE or it doesn't really matter what it is set at?



The player DECODES it into PCM.


The D2 knows what to do with PCM.


The D2 can process the PCM into any of the

ways you like.


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/13652611
> 
> 
> How long does it take these days to receive the ARC kit ?



Mine took about 1.5 weeks from a dealer in NYC.


----------



## bool

One more question for the masses.......if you are watching a Blu-Ray disc on a PS3 and have ARC set up on your D2, will using THX Cinema settings change the crossovers to 80Hz and the speaker sizes?


Thanks


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/13657428
> 
> 
> One more question for the masses.......if you are watching a Blu-Ray disc on a PS3 and have ARC set up on your D2, will using THX Cinema settings change the crossovers to 80Hz and the speaker sizes?
> 
> 
> Thanks



My understanding is if you have Room EQ on for a source, then all the other eq / speaker size / etc settings are ignored. I hvae not personally tested this and would like to hear from someone who has.


----------



## tngiloy

Eric,

Yes, that's the right adapter. Go to newegg.com. They carry the same one and its cheaper and their shipping is very quick.

You can download the driver from the Keyspan website. I used it with a Vista laptop w/o any problems. Many others have used it with XP successfully. The Keyspan is only a few feet long so you can get a serial cable- I used a 15' one- so that you can run your upgades, ARC, etc. from a comfortable distance. It was a male to male serial cable if I remember correctly.

Tom


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13655200
> 
> 
> I went keyspan's website looking for the "recomended" serial adapter. The only thing that I can find is a little black box with a serial port status lights and I guess a usb cable on the other end I think it was $40. Is this what others are using? I've been using a serial adapter from Radio Shack, which I think was the same price. I have'nt had any noticeable issues with it that I speak of. Anyway, if anyone has a model number, perhaps I'll purchase Keyspan's cable to be on the same page with everyone else.
> 
> 
> Thanks, Eric
> 
> 
> PS, I believe it was a high speed serial adapter marked usa-19hs. Is this it?



Eric,

Im not sure about the serial cable. I'll let you know if its m-m, or m-f when I get home and can check mine.

Tom


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13658203
> 
> 
> Eric,
> 
> Im not sure about the serial cable. I'll let you know if its m-m, or m-f when I get home and can check mine.
> 
> Tom



It was male to female rs232 serial cable.

Tom


----------



## EAnderson

Thanks Tom, I will probably order this one, however I really have'nt had any real problems with my Radio Shack cable. My local Anthem Dealer reccomended the Radio Shack adapter saying that his installers uses the same one.


I did run the ARC program again today but since my wife is now home, I can't do any real critical listening, however from what I can tell it is not as boomy. I did keep the movie and music the same this time around until I get the hang of it.


Can someone explain how to post my test results from ARC to this forum for others to see and offer suggestions.



Thanks in advance for your help.


Eric


----------



## EAnderson

I have a six foot RS-232 serial cable from Radio Shack. So, I'll probably need a longer one if the Keyspan adapter is short in length as my my Radio Shack adapter is six foot long. I guess I've thinking about changing to the Keyspan adapter since Pierro at Anthem reccomended this brand as well as most forum members here are using it.


Thanks, Eric


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/13652611
> 
> 
> How long does it take these days to receive the ARC kit ?



That's a good f*cking question.

As I've stated, ad nauseum, I ordered mine on March 12th the first day it was officially available.

Still waiting.........


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13660805
> 
> 
> That's a good f*cking question.
> 
> As I've stated, ad nauseum, I ordered mine on March 12th the first day it was officially available.
> 
> Still waiting.........



There is something random about shipping. I got mine in exactly 1 week but my dealer said he had another customer that had been waiting 3 weeks


----------



## Ian_Currie

Is ARC available to customers who already own the D2? I placed my order several months ago and haven't heard anything.


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/13647547
> 
> 
> Can you use it to view other sources from the D2? I'd love to be able to do things like PS3 and AppleTV updates without turning on the whole system.



You know you can control the PS3 with a PSP anywhere with wifi? It's pretty slick. Have the TV on in Zone 1 and control the music in another room in Zone 2/3 with a PSP. The on-screen menu from the PS3 show's up on the PSP.


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/13661115
> 
> 
> Is ARC available to customers who already own the D2? I placed my order several months ago and haven't heard anything.



Yes, I have had mine for about 2 weeks, call your dealer.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13660805
> 
> 
> That's a good f*cking question.
> 
> As I've stated, ad nauseum, I ordered mine on March 12th the first day it was officially available.
> 
> Still waiting.........



Hmmm.... It took my dealer just about 2 weeks to get me an ARC-1. I would call your dealer and push them a bit.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13655200
> 
> 
> I went keyspan's website looking for the "recomended" serial adapter. The only thing that I can find is a little black box with a serial port status lights and I guess a usb cable on the other end I think it was $40. Is this what others are using? I've been using a serial adapter from Radio Shack, which I think was the same price. I have'nt had any noticeable issues with it that I speak of. Anyway, if anyone has a model number, perhaps I'll purchase Keyspan's cable to be on the same page with everyone else.
> 
> 
> Thanks, Eric
> 
> 
> PS, I believe it was a high speed serial adapter marked usa-19hs. Is this it?



EAnderson:


The Keyspan USA-19HS is the correct Keyspan adapter. BTW do not use the RS adapter with the D2. This adapter has been known to result in bad flashes, and Nick at Anthem will tell you to stay away from it. The RS adapter is the adapter the manual is referring to when it says:


"Some no-name models have been found to cause operation to freeze. Reviving a D2 that was made inoperable by an inadequate USB-to-serial adapter is not covered under warranty."


Another option if you have a PCMCIA slot in your laptop is to get a real serial card and ditch the USB adapter altogether.


I used to use a USA-19HS, but switched to a SIIG JJ-PCM012-S2 serial card (about $50). In my experience the SIIG card is faster and more reliable than the Keyspan USB adapter (although the Keyspan usually works fine and many people are happy with it - and will not void your warranty, since Anthem support routinely recommends it).


You can get the SIIG adapter here:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...bcard%2bpcmcia


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/13661115
> 
> 
> Is ARC available to customers who already own the D2? I placed my order several months ago and haven't heard anything.



I'm NOT 100% sure I follow your Question.


But if you don't own a D2 it will be difficult to ORDER ONE.


BECAUSE you need to supply your D2 Serial Number with

the ORDER. ARC can only then be used with that one serial #


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13662545
> 
> 
> I'm NOT 100% sure I follow your Question.
> 
> 
> But if you don't own a D2 it will be difficult to ORDER ONE.
> 
> 
> BECAUSE you need to supply your D2 Serial Number with
> 
> the ORDER. ARC can only then be used with that one serial #



I think the question was whether the ARC-1 add-on kit was available, or whether ARC-1 still was available only with new D2s.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13662463
> 
> 
> Hmmm.... It took my dealer just about 2 weeks to get me an ARC-1. I would call your dealer and push them a bit.










I just ordered mine last week, and the dealer said Anthem told him it would take 6 -12 weeks!?


----------



## BruiserG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/13662855
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just ordered mine last week, and the dealer said Anthem told him it would take 6 -12 weeks!?



Took my dealer about 2 weeks as well. Not sure if availability differs in different parts of the country? Still, 6 - 12 weeks sounds excessive.


----------



## mr_fitz

After successfully completing arc calibration, I decided to try to apply the thx processing for my BD movies. There was very little change is the sound. I went back and forth over and over and I actually preffered having it off. Anyone else have an opinion about this?


John


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/13662855
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just ordered mine last week, and the dealer said Anthem told him it would take 6 -12 weeks!?



I got mine in 2 weeks plus 2 business days ordered 03/12 received 04/01. Try another dealer.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13622511
> 
> 
> If you have a Harmony remote, you'll have to get with Logitech and have them help you. I was on the phone with them for over an hour one day and they got all those codes programmed for me. Now my D2 switches inputs only using the THX x x discrete codes.



I just spent my time on with Logitech tech support and got this working. Its nice that it works but I really wish that they'd allow me to do this without calling them - it doesn't seem like that big of a deal.


If anyone wants to steal my codes just tell tech support to check username: 'dschamis1'.


David


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13660805
> 
> 
> That's a good f*cking question.
> 
> As I've stated, ad nauseum, I ordered mine on March 12th the first day it was officially available.
> 
> Still waiting.........





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/13661106
> 
> 
> There is something random about shipping. I got mine in exactly 1 week but my dealer said he had another customer that had been waiting 3 weeks



I finally got email back from my dealer. They sent in the order *WITHOUT MY SERIAL NUMBER* even though I have that in email *TWO MONTHS AGO!*
























So, after following up (since I've been prodding them) they find out my order was incomplete as a result and I have to start over!







I could be sitting here enjoying audio bliss instead of waiting some more...


I would recommend anyone in the Seattle area check in and make sure their order was truly submitted with the serial number, or else they are in limbo.


(I wish Anthem didn't require going through a dealer for the ARC-1 kit. And I am thankful that they didn't implement it as a dealer-supplied service!)


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/13661115
> 
> 
> Is ARC available to customers who already own the D2? I placed my order several months ago and haven't heard anything.



Ian, did you order it from Gary @ Wurlitzer Stereo? If so, I am surprised that you do not have it yet.


And, any further thoughts on the SQ or PQ of your new Denon AVP compared to the D2?


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13664154
> 
> 
> I finally got email back from my dealer. They sent in the order *WITHOUT MY SERIAL NUMBER* even though I have that in email *TWO MONTHS AGO!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, after following up (since I've been prodding them) they find out my order was incomplete as a result and I have to start over!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could be sitting here enjoying audio bliss instead of waiting some more...
> 
> 
> I would recommend anyone in the Seattle area check in and make sure their order was truly submitted with the serial number, or else they are in limbo.
> 
> 
> (I wish Anthem didn't require going through a dealer for the ARC-1 kit. And I am thankful that they didn't implement it as a dealer-supplied service!)



Hey Gordon. I don't know if you remember, but I ordered from the Definitive Seattle store. I'll be calling Tom for a status this morning.

Thanks for the heads up. I hope that didn't dork all of the orders, i.e., wait to ship all of the Definitive orders at once. That would really suck.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13663108
> 
> 
> After successfully completing arc calibration, I decided to try to apply the thx processing for my BD movies. There was very little change is the sound. I went back and forth over and over and I actually preffered having it off. Anyone else have an opinion about this?
> 
> 
> John



The big difference with THX is that treble is rolled off. Some movies need it but many of today's movies are adjusted for home playback when transferred to dvd.


Jim


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13666403
> 
> 
> The big difference with THX is that treble is rolled off. Some movies need it but many of today's movies are adjusted for home playback when transferred to dvd.
> 
> 
> Jim



I tried a few different BD movies and I really didn't like the highs that were produced. In one of the harry potter movies in which people are clapping their hands in the great hall, with thx turned on it sounded dead and you could barely hear people clapping.


John


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13664154
> 
> 
> I finally got email back from my dealer. They sent in the order *WITHOUT MY SERIAL NUMBER* even though I have that in email *TWO MONTHS AGO!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, after following up (since I've been prodding them) they find out my order was incomplete as a result and I have to start over!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could be sitting here enjoying audio bliss instead of waiting some more...
> 
> 
> I would recommend anyone in the Seattle area check in and make sure their order was truly submitted with the serial number, or else they are in limbo.
> 
> 
> (I wish Anthem didn't require going through a dealer for the ARC-1 kit. And I am thankful that they didn't implement it as a dealer-supplied service!)



The order form is pretty clear: "processor model (must be included for order to be processed" and "serial number must be included for order to be processed"







The order form does also say: "We will call if further clarification is required."


Probably an honest mistake but that doesn't make it hurt any less. Sorry to hear that.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13666439
> 
> 
> I tried a few different BD movies and I really didn't like the highs that were produced. In one of the harry potter movies in which people are clapping their hands in the great hall, with thx turned on it sounded dead and you could barely hear people clapping.
> 
> 
> John



I agree. I usually turn thx off.


----------



## izzihd

Let's be careful - are folks saying they prefer THX off, or turning off Re-EQ (a part of THX processing) because it rolls of highs?


Thanks.


----------



## Milt99

Gordon,

Sorry to hear about the royal screw-up and thanks for prompting me to call the dealer today.

My ARC-1 arrived yesterday.










I know that when I placed my order, the form they had specifically stated that the serial number was required(DUH), as Jim stated.


With the arrival of the PS3 and ARC-1, it's like Christmas in April.

In fact the local weather forecast is calling for snow Friday and\\or Saturday.

It was 80 degrees at my house last Saturday.

Pass the Global Warming, please.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *izzihd* /forum/post/13667209
> 
> 
> Let's be careful - are folks saying they prefer THX off, or turning off Re-EQ (a part of THX processing) because it rolls of highs?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Why be careful. Most all HD soundtracks are far better than their SD counterparts especially in the higher frequencies.

Why would you want them rolled off?


----------



## izzihd

Hi Milt,


Just asking if people are avoiding THX processing all together, or just turning off Re-EQ? They are two different choices as RE-EQ is only one element of THX processing.


I usually have THX on, but turn off RE-EQ.


----------



## wookie

I konw you are suppose to disconnect the HDMI cables from the D2 when updateing the firmware and I was wondering whether that applies when just uploading the ARC room data to the D2. I'm kinda the belt plus suspenders type of guy so I left them disconnected and didn't have any problems. I don't think that the directions for the ARC mentioned disconnecting the HDMI cables when up loading the room correction data. Could this be the reason some people have had problems. Also the directions didn't state to disconnect the microphone before uploading. I didn't and had no problems. By the way I agree the sound are much improved the the ARC.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13666515
> 
> 
> The order form is pretty clear: "processor model (must be included for order to be processed" and "serial number must be included for order to be processed"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The order form does also say: "We will call if further clarification is required."
> 
> 
> Probably an honest mistake but that doesn't make it hurt any less. Sorry to hear that.



My sales droid stated that no one ever called him. I have no idea if the order actually went in or if this is a CYA excuse. Since he asked me to email him the serial number initially (in Feb), I find it hard to believe it got lost in the transition from Outlook to order application.


Anyway, enough off-topic ranting. I have a cross-country memorial service to attend this weekend and maybe I'll have good news when I return.


All of you with ARC-1, keep posting so the rest of us know what to do when we get ours!


----------



## abc999

Almost the same predicament. Place ARC1 order more than 2 months ago. Gave serial number 3 times and its not yet with me.


----------



## dmorse4765

Ordered mine yesterday at a dealer in tuscon and was told I would have it late next week. Yes, the first thing he asked for was my serial #


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *izzihd* /forum/post/13667209
> 
> 
> Let's be careful - are folks saying they prefer THX off, or turning off Re-EQ (a part of THX processing) because it rolls of highs?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



All I tried was turning THX off. I will try leaving THX on and turning Re-EQ off. I will see if I like it any better.


John


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13668265
> 
> 
> Almost the same predicament. Place ARC1 order more than 2 months ago. Gave serial number 3 times and its not yet with me.



That must be frustrating. I'm in Singapore and my ARC-1 arrived this week, picking it up from my dealer tomorrow


----------



## EAnderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13662500
> 
> 
> EAnderson:
> 
> 
> The Keyspan USA-19HS is the correct Keyspan adapter. BTW do not use the RS adapter with the D2. This adapter has been known to result in bad flashes, and Nick at Anthem will tell you to stay away from it. The RS adapter is the adapter the manual is referring to when it says:
> 
> 
> "Some no-name models have been found to cause operation to freeze. Reviving a D2 that was made inoperable by an inadequate USB-to-serial adapter is not covered under warranty."
> 
> 
> Another option if you have a PCMCIA slot in your laptop is to get a real serial card and ditch the USB adapter altogether.
> 
> 
> I used to use a USA-19HS, but switched to a SIIG JJ-PCM012-S2 serial card (about $50). In my experience the SIIG card is faster and more reliable than the Keyspan USB adapter (although the Keyspan usually works fine and many people are happy with it - and will not void your warranty, since Anthem support routinely recommends it).
> 
> 
> You can get the SIIG adapter here:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...bcard%2bpcmcia



Oh no, that could explain some of my issues, however, I still am not sure if this could the case for me. I've done several updates and ran the ARC several times with what I believe to be good success. I do plan on ordering the USA-19HS anyway just to be sure.


Thanks for your advice

Eric


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/13650018
> 
> 
> Press MODE button, just below the 9 key and then use the curser keys. THX Ultra 2 should be a choice or Dolby PLIIx. Both will matrix the extra channels over to the rears. Works for all my 6 and 7.1 films. I use it for 5.1 to give me more channels. Work very well.



That is what I thought but when i press the mode button it will not switch between ANYTHING.. I get no options. I think there is something wrong with my D2.


Thoughts?


----------



## EAnderson

Well ok, I've gone and ordered the Keyspan serial adapter, I hope it arrives soon. Have others used a serial card like the SIIG in their laptops for use with the Anthem?


Also, how do I post the graphs from my Arc program to this forum?


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13646809
> 
> 
> My first trials were way too boomy as well, but the problem turned out to be the Velo DD15's self-EQ'ed response was "misleading" ARC to set a really crappy target curve for the sub. I had much better results after re-EQing the DD15 for a flat solo response curve. Other posters have reported better results when totally disabling their DD1x's EQ. You may not have a DD1x, but you could have a measured sub response which is giving ARC fits (not criticizing your sub, maybe room position for example).
> 
> 
> If you would screen capture your ARC results and post them here, I expect one or more of the posters who have become proficient at reading these graphs could offer some advice.



Yeah that pretty much aligns with my general principal. If something weird is going on, try to figure out what I did/missed to cause it. That I am at fault with 99.99% of any issues or weird occurrences is probably pure coincidence. (That is if I dig deep enough to get to the route cause once I quickly eliminate anything but myself







)


Life is an adventure. You can embrace it and go along for the ride. Or resist and let it run over you










Some of the little gaffs I made or discovered with the ARC alone include finding out my CC tweeter wasn't working (still waiting for someone to tell me how obvious that should have been lol) and discovering that the Room EQ = ON doesn't NOT automatically set... You know, after I accidentally noticed it after I ran ARC the SECOND time lol.


I rarely make the same mistake again, but I think I am getting close to hitting most of them.


In my professional life I am an Sr. IT PM with some serious brain power expenditure, and responsibilities. In my private life I am about as completely opposite of that serious dude its not even funny. Life balance I guess.


I am the guy who likes a scary dream cause its like an adventure show change from all the usual boring, get rich, take over the work and all the cheerleaders come out for smooches stuff.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13670597
> 
> 
> Some of the little gaffs I made or discovered with the ARC alone include finding out my CC tweeter wasn't working (still waiting for someone to tell me how obvious that should have been
> 
> Richard



I don't think anyone had the heart to rub it in Richard









We're all friends here afterall, right?

I am very curious to see what ARC-1 "tells" me about my system and room.

One thing that has been largely missing in the ARC discussion is what users have dedicated\ reated rooms vs. systems in normal living spaces.

I spent a lot of time, effort and money(for me) creating a dedicated music\\movie environment.

It will be interesting to see what ARC has to say about it.

I may well find out that one or more parts of my system are not what I thought them to be.


As a P.S.

I set up my PS3 tonight and am pretty well impressed with it.

A very solid piece of gear, well worth the price.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13670722
> 
> 
> 
> As a P.S.
> 
> I set up my PS3 tonight and am pretty well impressed with it.
> 
> A very solid piece of gear, well worth the price.



And don't forget you can have TOP-SHELF

IR control of the PS3 now. That is what

kept the PS3 out of my theater. If my

Crestron can not control it - it doesn't

go in. Now the PS3 is a GOOD Crestron

Citizen


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13671817
> 
> 
> And don't forget you can have TOP-SHELF
> 
> IR control of the PS3 now. That is what
> 
> kept the PS3 out of my theater. If my
> 
> Crestron can not control it - it doesn't
> 
> go in. Now the PS3 is a GOOD Crestron
> 
> Citizen



How? I have the PS2 IR connected, but it's really shaky and not consistent at all. Is there some other IR controller for the PS3 that works really well? And ideally controls power on/off?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13671828
> 
> 
> How? I have the PS2 IR connected, but it's really shaky and not consistent at all. Is there some other IR controller for the PS3 that works really well? And ideally controls power on/off?



YES - * ROCK SOLID IR CONTROL *


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13671840
> 
> 
> YES - * ROCK SOLID IR CONTROL *



Well, that's cool. Too bad they're sold out indefinitely.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13671929
> 
> 
> Well, that's cool. Too bad they're sold out indefinitely.



Come on 3-4 weeks is NOT Indefinitely.


There is a 2nd source - even * BETTER *


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13672019
> 
> 
> Come on 3-4 weeks is NOT Indefinitely.
> 
> 
> There is a 2nd source - even * BETTER *



Also sold out... I'm an immediate satisfaction kind of guy...


So do they also ship some sort of IR DB with it? How do you get the IR codes to control the non-PS2 IR commands?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13672069
> 
> 
> Also sold out... I'm an immediate satisfaction kind of guy...
> 
> 
> So do they also ship some sort of IR DB with it? How do you get the IR codes to control the non-PS2 IR commands?



Why answer your question - is this a form of immediate satisfaction


----------



## netroamer

My D2 has had a series of glitches since I began performing the updates. Perhaps, partly due to the fact that I tried to be proactive and download the updates from the support site that indicated fixes for some of the issues I have been having. The latest being that the unit will not hold any radio presets in memory.


An exchange of emails with Nick ended in no response to the last question I answered.


I'm considering running the flash eraser program to clear out the programming memory and reload 1.31. Has anyone out there used the eraser program and is there any reason not to use it? Also, will one pass do the job or should I run it multiple times?


John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13672393
> 
> 
> Also, will one pass do the job or should I run it multiple times?
> 
> 
> John



I'm sure Nick should be answering your questions.


But Bob P. has said here - you need to run it more

than once.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wookie* /forum/post/13667885
> 
> 
> I konw you are suppose to disconnect the HDMI cables from the D2 when updateing the firmware and I was wondering whether that applies when just uploading the ARC room data to the D2. I'm kinda the belt plus suspenders type of guy so I left them disconnected and didn't have any problems. I don't think that the directions for the ARC mentioned disconnecting the HDMI cables when up loading the room correction data. Could this be the reason some people have had problems. Also the directions didn't state to disconnect the microphone before uploading. I didn't and had no problems. By the way I agree the sound are much improved the the ARC.



The reason for disconnecting HDMI (or rather, as I recommend (since the HDMI connectors are fragile), pulling wall power for each HDMI source and display device) during a firmware upgrade is that a powered HDMI connector interferes with the programming of the portion of the video board that implements HDMI connections.


No such programming is happening when you are doing ARC measurements or uploading ARC results.


There should be no problem at all leaving your HDMI devices connected during ARC measurement and uploads.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13668962
> 
> 
> All I tried was turning THX off. I will try leaving THX on and turning Re-EQ off. I will see if I like it any better.
> 
> 
> John



The different types of processing done when THX is turned on are described in the Anthem manual (section 4.8.6). Some of the THX processing only applies if you have a 7.1 speaker arrangement. Some only applies when the content going to the two side surrounds happens to be identical at the moment.


The "re-equalization" portion of THX post processing can be turned on or off REGARDLESS of whether the rest of the THX post processing is engaged. This is necessary because some movie discs and broadcast movies have already been "re-equalized" for best home theater reproduction and others haven't.


I happen to like what THX post processing offers, but whether or not you use it, you need to be alert that you may need to toggle the "re-equalization" setting for any given movie.


-----------------------------------------


A similar thing occurs with old, mono movies made prior to the 1960s. The mono sound track for theatrical distribution for those had deliberate treble boost since the speakers were set behind the movie screen and the sound had to penetrate the rather thick screens used at the time. It was also considered better to have some additional treble due to the nature of theater acoustics in crowded theaters (the same thing that THX re-equalization deals with today -- i.e., removing the more modest treble boost found in theatrical release sound tracks so they sound better in home theater use). This aggressive boost of treble for older movies is known as "Academy equalization" (the Motion Picture Academy).


The Anthem provides the Mono-Academy mode (available ONLY if THX is currently OFF in the Anthem!) to remove Academy equalization from such pictures, and audio in these older movies will sound MUCH more natural if you use it.


But SOME discs and SOME broadcasts of such older movies ALREADY have the Academy equalization removed. And the disc package notes may not mention that. NOTE: If the "mono" movie is presented on disc as a DD5.1 track then odds are the Academy equalization has already been removed.


So plan to use Mono-Academy when watching such older movies (mono or "stereo" audio tracks), but be prepared to change your mind and switch to straight Mono mode (or any of the surround modes if you prefer) if you discover Mono-Academy makes the audio TOO dull because the disc maker or broadcaster has ALREADY removed the Academy equalization.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/13669315
> 
> 
> That is what I thought but when i press the mode button it will not switch between ANYTHING.. I get no options. I think there is something wrong with my D2.
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



The audio modes offered at any given time depend upon (1) the type of audio input signal being received at the moment, (2) whether or not you have a 7.1 speaker configuration, and (3) whether or not you have THX post processing turned on.


If you are receiving DD 5.1 audio, for example, and happen to have a 5.1 speaker configuration, you will HAVE NO OPTIONS for audio other than whether or not THX post processing is turned on. That's because the other audio modes deal with how you want to raise your 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output, and you don't have 7.1 speakers.


If you are receiving stereo or mono audio, you will find that some of the audio modes (such as Mono-Academy mode) are only available if THX post processing is turned off.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz

TO Answer Questions










We all missed you Dr. Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13669850
> 
> 
> Also, how do I post the graphs from my Arc program to this forum?



Go back to some of my posts in the earlier pages here when graphs were first posted and I describe how to upload your screen captures to a free image hosting site like photobucket.com and then putting "img" strings in your posts here so that the images appear here when your posts are viewed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13672435
> 
> 
> I'm sure Nick should be answering your questions.
> 
> 
> But Bob P. has said here - you need to run it more
> 
> than once.



Actually that was someone else who said that. I've never run Flash eraser myself and don't have any experience with it yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13674894
> 
> 
> TO Answer Questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We all missed you Dr. Bob



Just a quick burst of posts. I'll still be mostly offline between now and the end of the month.


And again, I expect all of you to figure out the answers to new puzzles and post them here so that I have nothing to do but read and enjoy when I get back.


(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13674958
> 
> 
> Just a quick burst of posts. I'll still be mostly offline between now and the end of the month.
> 
> 
> And again, I expect all of you to figure out the answers to new puzzles and post them here so that I have nothing to do but read and enjoy when I get back.
> 
> 
> (grin!)
> 
> --Bob



That prediction sounds Ominous










I hope everything is OK with Dr. Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just a quick editorial comment regarding Blu-Ray players: Right now, with the addition of DTS-HD MA decoding, the PS3 strikes me as the best choice for use with the Anthems. I'm thinking seriously about buying one as my FIRST Blu-Ray player.


Its weakness in remote control can be handled with the bluetooth to IR adapter discussed above.


It is NOT the best player for standard DVD playback with the Anthems because it does not offer HDMI 480i output, and does not offer automatic switching of setups depending on whether you are viewing Blu-Ray or SD-DVD.


So you should plan on using a different player for SD-DVD (such as the Oppo).


It will be a neat trick if any of the upcoming stand alone players this year can offer enough to compete against what the PS3 offers today. For example, if you are an Anthem user, the Denon 3800 is definitely NOT a superior choice. The Panasonic BD50, the Pioneer 05FD, and the Sony standalone player due out in the fall will be hard pressed, I think, to match the PS3's Blu-Ray performance for Anthem owners.


Since some find the PS3 noisy, and some find it ugly, setting it up behind a closed door may be your best option.


If anyone disagrees, feel free to PM what I'm missing here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13674990
> 
> 
> That prediction sounds Ominous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope everything is OK with Dr. Bob.



I'm fine, personally. Dealing with some family issues.


But I'm also lazy. If I can get you folks to find out answers for me, I'll have less catching up to do!









--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13675063
> 
> 
> Since some find the PS3 noisy,
> 
> --Bob



I think only the 1st Gen PS3's where Noisy.


I have two 2nd Gen players and I can stand right next

to them and NOT HEAR a thing. The Fan in my PJ makes

more noise than the PS3 and my PJ -- I consider quiet.


The IR2BT works Great - I bought a STASH of them.


Also the PS3 does up-convert SD-DVD to any resolution

you Choose.


Is it better than the Anthem - I'll let you know. I'll

run some SD-DVD Calibration Discs through it.


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13675095
> 
> 
> I'm fine, personally. Dealing with some family issues.
> 
> 
> But I'm also lazy. If I can get you folks to find out answers for me, I'll have less catching up to do!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


No one that frequents this forum could possibly think of you as lazy!


----------



## drhankz

I just ran the HQV Test disc on the PS3.


Even the Anthem FAILS some of their Tests.


Over the weekend - I compare the PS3 using HQV with the D2 and HQV.


One thing the PS3 does right is picking up all the Cadence

Variations PERFECTING from the HQV Disc. I think even the

D2 misses some of the Cadence Variations of the Disc.


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13675063
> 
> 
> It will be a neat trick if any of the upcoming stand alone players this year can offer enough to compete against what the PS3 offers today. For example, if you are an Anthem user, the Denon 3800 is definitely NOT a superior choice. The Panasonic BD50, the Pioneer 05FD, and the Sony standalone player due out in the fall will be hard pressed, I think, to match the PS3's Blu-Ray performance for Anthem owners.
> 
> 
> Since some find the PS3 noisy, and some find it ugly, setting it up behind a closed door may be your best option.
> 
> 
> If anyone disagrees, feel free to PM what I'm missing here.
> 
> --Bob



Hard to disagree with that Bob. I mean, D2 users can't receive HBR bitstream via HDMI 1.2 or 1.3 from any source so it's all about PCM performance.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13675063
> 
> 
> Just a quick editorial comment regarding Blu-Ray players: Right now, with the addition of DTS-HD MA decoding, the PS3 strikes me as the best choice for use with the Anthems. I'm thinking seriously about buying one as my FIRST Blu-Ray player.
> 
> 
> Its weakness in remote control can be handled with the bluetooth to IR adapter discussed above.
> 
> 
> It is NOT the best player for standard DVD playback with the Anthems because it does not offer HDMI 480i output, and does not offer automatic switching of setups depending on whether you are viewing Blu-Ray or SD-DVD.
> 
> 
> So you should plan on using a different player for SD-DVD (such as the Oppo).
> 
> 
> It will be a neat trick if any of the upcoming stand alone players this year can offer enough to compete against what the PS3 offers today. For example, if you are an Anthem user, the Denon 3800 is definitely NOT a superior choice. The Panasonic BD50, the Pioneer 05FD, and the Sony standalone player due out in the fall will be hard pressed, I think, to match the PS3's Blu-Ray performance for Anthem owners.
> 
> 
> Since some find the PS3 noisy, and some find it ugly, setting it up behind a closed door may be your best option.
> 
> 
> If anyone disagrees, feel free to PM what I'm missing here.
> 
> --Bob



I think that is a pretty good summary.


I had a first gen PS3, and I could not handle the fan noise so I sold it. Hank says the newer models are quieter, which is good, because it was a deal breaker for me.


I stopped following the Denon 3800 thread. Why is that player not a good choice, in particular, with the Anthem?


Edit: I confused the 3800 for the higher end Denon which internally decodes the audio codecs.


----------



## drhankz

I know this is not a conclusive test.


I have a high-quality up-converting HDMI SD-DVD Player feeding

my PJ.

No Anthem in the Loop.


I have the PS3 up converting the EXACT SAME SD-DVD feeding the

exact same projector.


I have a very high-motion movie [2 Copies] in each player.


I did a freeze-frame on BOTH players.


The PS3 up-converting is delivering a better image than the

SD-DVD Player.


Just an FYI Datapoint.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13675063
> 
> 
> Just a quick editorial comment regarding Blu-Ray players: Right now, with the addition of DTS-HD MA decoding, the PS3 strikes me as the best choice for use with the Anthems. I'm thinking seriously about buying one as my FIRST Blu-Ray player.
> 
> 
> Its weakness in remote control can be handled with the bluetooth to IR adapter discussed above.
> 
> 
> It is NOT the best player for standard DVD playback with the Anthems because it does not offer HDMI 480i output, and does not offer automatic switching of setups depending on whether you are viewing Blu-Ray or SD-DVD.
> 
> 
> So you should plan on using a different player for SD-DVD (such as the Oppo).
> 
> 
> It will be a neat trick if any of the upcoming stand alone players this year can offer enough to compete against what the PS3 offers today. For example, if you are an Anthem user, the Denon 3800 is definitely NOT a superior choice. The Panasonic BD50, the Pioneer 05FD, and the Sony standalone player due out in the fall will be hard pressed, I think, to match the PS3's Blu-Ray performance for Anthem owners.
> 
> 
> Since some find the PS3 noisy, and some find it ugly, setting it up behind a closed door may be your best option.
> 
> 
> If anyone disagrees, feel free to PM what I'm missing here.
> 
> --Bob



I recently came to the same conclusion: the PS3 is the best blu ray player for Anthem owners especially now in light of the latest firmware update.


I think the 40gig unit should be fine for the money.


A friend gave me these link with some interesting info.

http://www.engadget.com/2007/10/30/4...er-consumption 

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...1132730AAzKyhe 


Jim


----------



## ravichopra

Does anyone else have problems with the edges setting when you go through a resolution change on the source side?


I have a couple of my TV and DVD profiles set with Edges On (in the Crop Input menu) to help push some of the random screen garbage off the edges of the picture with SD 4x3 shows, and to bring some DVD pics all the way to the edge of the screen.


The problem I'm finding is that the AVM50 seems to "forget" that the Edges setting is on, both when I first turn the unit on, as well as when the source goes through a resolution or input change. A couple examples:

-If I'm watching a show on one of my TV settings (Edges on) and switch to DVD to watch a disc, then switch back to TV, I find that the picture appears to have edges off.

-If I finish watching an SD show on my S3 TiVo (set on native output, so sending a 480i signal to the Anthem) and switch to the Now Playing list (which the TiVo renders in 720p) then start another 480i show, the second show starts with Edges apparently off.

-If I'm watching a DVD with edges on and switch to TV, then later switch back, same problem.

In each instance, a quick trip to the Crop Input menu shows the Edges setting being on - just not being reflected in the actual output to my screen.


In order to get Edges back on, I need to cycle through the different TV (or DVD) settings to get back to the one I want. At this point it appears to "remember" and properly set the Edges setting back on where it's set in the menu. I can also get the Edges setting back on if I go into that menu and move it up and down a notch.


A bit of detail that may/may not be relevant - both S3 and DVD player are connected via component cables (TiVo + HDMI + AVM50 = misery), and the AVM50 is connected to a Pioneer 1080p plasma via HDMI. Firmware version is current (1.31).


Thanks in advance if anyone has any thoughts on how to fix this. It's isn't a catastrophe, but it is seriously annoying.


-Ravi


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.;13676012
> 
> [URL* /forum/post/0
> 
> http://www.engadget.com/2007/10/30/40gb-ps3-features-65nm-chips-lower-power-consumption[/url ]
> 
> 
> Jim



YUP as a IBM Chip Partner - we are very familiar with

the Benefits of the new 65nm Cell Processor versus

the 90nm Cell Processor.


That is why I said NO FAN NOISE in either of my 2nd Gen PS3's


----------



## Milt99

My new PS3 is as quiet as any device with a fan can be.

Also just as important, the fan operates in a non-obtrusive frequency.


Rob, I think the Denon 3800 is the high end Denon BR player with internal decoding. The 2500 does bitstream only.


As I stated above after one evening of use, the PS3 is going to be my BR player of choice for a good long time.


As far as looks, I don't have a flush, rack mount type of rack and my room is mostly dark so it doesn't bother me.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13676302
> 
> 
> 
> As far as looks, I don't have a flush, rack mount type of rack and my room is mostly dark so it doesn't bother me.


*Here is how it looks WITHOUT a flush Mounted Rack*


----------



## thebland

I am using the Denon 3800 BD player with my Halcro SSP-200 (LPCM). It is not a bad player and decodes DTS MA and TRUE HD to LPCM. It has a nice upconverting player inside as well with infinite tweaks / gamma adjust, etc. It looks great at 24P and 1080P60, 1080i. THe PQ surpasses my Panasonic and Sony BD players. It is built like a tank. No HDMI hand shake issues with my Halcro or my Sony Qualia.


THe upcoming Pioneer, the new Panny and the new SOny are likely many months off (all have been delayed). The Pioneer will not be 2.0.... So if excellent PQ and lossless LPCM are important (and you want it today), I'd look at the Denon. It does 480i over HDMI and has a 'normal' remote and is very fast in loading..


Likely a go choice for Anthem (and Halcro) owners who need 5.1/7.1 LPCM.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13676302
> 
> 
> Rob, I think the Denon 3800 is the high end Denon BR player with internal decoding. The 2500 does bitstream only.



So I was right the first time.










In that case, I am curious as to why Bob doesn't think it is a good match for the Anthem?


----------



## "MIKEY"

Installing the latest PS3 software version, 2.3, was easy. Used the system's installer & wireless connection. It took about 30 minutes in my system.

The results?

Enjoyed hearing David Gilmore's live concert in 5.1 True HD audio!


Haven't made the move to ARC. My room is acoustically treated & I'm in no hurry. From the descriptions on this forum, it appears that the D2 will improve things.


My ears perceived a 38hz peak in my room that the D2 resonance filter flattened out. It will be interesting to hear how ARC improves upon using the resonance filter.

Any observations?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13676498
> 
> 
> So I was right the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In that case, I am curious as to why Bob doesn't think it is a good match for the Anthem?



WHY spend SEVEN TIMES the MONEY for a player that is only Profile 1.1


----------



## thebland

I, personally, prefer 1.1 over 2.0. I tried the garbage, downloadable extras on the 'fully compliant' HD DVD side and saw no value and only a conduit to bring in a virus, spam or a slow down / lock up to my player. Moreover, I don't need an internet connection to get 1080P24 or lossless 7.1 sound.


Regarding the price.... it is expensive... but the performance is unmatched.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/13676629
> 
> 
> it is expensive... but the performance is unmatched.



I won't mention any names but we both know a

Former 3800 owner who compared the 3800 to

the PS3 and COULD NOT SEE or HEAR the Difference.

Except for the DENT in his wallet.


The 3800 went back


----------



## thebland

The 3800 is not for everyone.. Apparently the owner you referred had his wallet grabbing his short hairs. It's a great player that does a lot. But it is expensive... and that is a factor on keeping it or not. On the other hand, I paid $1300 for my Panny BD 10... and it looks soft and cannot LPCM DTS MA.


----------



## thebland

My point is not to argue the cost benefit ratio. That's money and one's own budget.. I'm just saying that this player would be a good fit with the D2 / AVM 50. In fact my local dealer (Gramophone) has this combo up in a theater room...... So there!


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13676530
> 
> 
> WHY spend SEVEN TIMES the MONEY for a player that is only Profile 1.1



Not buying a BR player because it is only profile 1.1 is like saying why buy a D2 because it is only HDMI 1.1.







How many discs are available with Profile 2.0 content? I have five disc players because I LOVE to watch movies and listen to a LOT of music. Who cares if my $200 open box Samsung BD-P1200 is only Profile 1.0? Out of the 40 or so BR movies I have watched on it so far, I can't remember being bummed out about not having 2.0, or DTS-MA for that matter (don't get me started on that - most Hollywood studios still master their audio tracks at 48kHz. LPCM is the way to go w/ BR.)


Bart


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13675272
> 
> 
> I just ran the HQV Test disc on the PS3.
> 
> 
> Even the Anthem FAILS some of their Tests.
> 
> 
> Over the weekend - I compare the PS3 using HQV with the D2 and HQV.
> 
> 
> One thing the PS3 does right is picking up all the Cadence
> 
> Variations PERFECTING from the HQV Disc. I think even the
> 
> D2 misses some of the Cadence Variations of the Disc.



Not with the V1.31 D2 firmware. I couldn't spot a single SD-HQV failure when playing HDMI 480i from my Pioneer 59avi into the D2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/13676019
> 
> 
> Does anyone else have problems with the edges setting when you go through a resolution change on the source side?
> 
> 
> I have a couple of my TV and DVD profiles set with Edges On (in the Crop Input menu) to help push some of the random screen garbage off the edges of the picture with SD 4x3 shows, and to bring some DVD pics all the way to the edge of the screen.
> 
> 
> The problem I'm finding is that the AVM50 seems to "forget" that the Edges setting is on, both when I first turn the unit on, as well as when the source goes through a resolution or input change. A couple examples:
> 
> -If I'm watching a show on one of my TV settings (Edges on) and switch to DVD to watch a disc, then switch back to TV, I find that the picture appears to have edges off.
> 
> -If I finish watching an SD show on my S3 TiVo (set on native output, so sending a 480i signal to the Anthem) and switch to the Now Playing list (which the TiVo renders in 720p) then start another 480i show, the second show starts with Edges apparently off.
> 
> -If I'm watching a DVD with edges on and switch to TV, then later switch back, same problem.
> 
> In each instance, a quick trip to the Crop Input menu shows the Edges setting being on - just not being reflected in the actual output to my screen.
> 
> 
> In order to get Edges back on, I need to cycle through the different TV (or DVD) settings to get back to the one I want. At this point it appears to "remember" and properly set the Edges setting back on where it's set in the menu. I can also get the Edges setting back on if I go into that menu and move it up and down a notch.
> 
> 
> A bit of detail that may/may not be relevant - both S3 and DVD player are connected via component cables (TiVo + HDMI + AVM50 = misery), and the AVM50 is connected to a Pioneer 1080p plasma via HDMI. Firmware version is current (1.31).
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance if anyone has any thoughts on how to fix this. It's isn't a catastrophe, but it is seriously annoying.
> 
> 
> -Ravi



I haven't seen this since I don't use Edges On for any of my sources, but your problem MAY be related to the problem I have with Video Source Adjust menu settings not being loaded properly at power up.


If so, you would see it in the Video Source Adjust menu -- i.e., if you open that menu and look at the Edges setting it will be wrong, and manually correcting it will make it right again.


If that's what you are seeing -- that Edges is not being properly remembered for each source over power cycles or source selection changes and that the menu itself is showing the incorrect value -- then you have a bug and should report it to Anthem.


If the menu is showing the CORRECT value, but it doesn't seem to actually be taking effect, double check that your Scale Out setting hasn't mysteriously changed to Bypass. Then try changing Edges manually to see if it kicks in again. In any event, this is a DIFFERENT bug and should be reported to Anthem.


Remember that Video Source Adjust settings, including Edges, are retained on a per input source basis. So TV1 has a different record of these settings than TV2 for example. Make sure you are going back to the same input source and are not just getting confused about similar, but different, sources.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13676498
> 
> 
> So I was right the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In that case, I am curious as to why Bob doesn't think it is a good match for the Anthem?



1) You are paying way too much for a high quality analog audio output stage you will never use. You are also paying for video adjustment processing you will never use


2) It needs firmware fixes out of the box. For example it puts out 1080p/24 as 24 fps instead of the technically correct 23.976 fps. It also has the 5dB low LFE bug for HDMI PCM output.


3) It replaces DTS-HD HR and DD+ with the lower quality, lossy, "core" or "associated" tracks.


4) It has no ethernet port and thus can NEVER be Blu-Ray player profile 2.0 compliant.


5) The PS3 has snappier performance.


==============


ETA: Remember, if you go PS3 for Blu-Ray, I still suggest you have a DIFFERENT player for standard DVDs. The PS3 will give adequate SD-DVD playback, but not the best. And with the Anthem (and a decent, calibrated display) you really can SEE the best.


If Sony did some more work on their SD-DVD stuff they could EASILY make the PS3 a no-brainer, best bet player for both Blu-Ray and SD-DVD. But I doubt that is a priority for them. However, it's hard to argue with the Oppo for SD-DVD playback and it costs less than many cables out there.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13677411
> 
> 
> 1) You are paying way to much for a high quality analog audio output stage you will never use. You are also paying for video adjustment processing you will never use
> 
> 
> 2) It needs firmware fixes out of the box. For example it puts out 1080p/24 as 24 fps instead of the technically correct 23.976 fps. It also has the 5dB low LFE bug for HDMI PCM output.
> 
> 
> 3) It replaces DTS-HD HR and DD+ with the lower quality, lossy, "core" or "associated" tracks.
> 
> 
> 4) It has no ethernet port and thus can NEVER be Blu-Ray player profile 2.0 compliant.
> 
> 
> 5) The PS3 has snappier performance.
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I knew about 1 and 2 (not doing 1080p/24 correctly is inexcusable). #3 would seem to also completely defeat the purpose of getting the Denon.


I plan on sticking with my Pio Elite HD1 for a while longer (perhaps until early next year).


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13677411
> 
> 
> 1) You are paying way too much for a high quality analog audio output stage you will never use. You are also paying for video adjustment processing you will never use
> 
> 
> 2) It needs firmware fixes out of the box. For example it puts out 1080p/24 as 24 fps instead of the technically correct 23.976 fps. It also has the 5dB low LFE bug for HDMI PCM output.
> 
> 
> 3) It replaces DTS-HD HR and DD+ with the lower quality, lossy, "core" or "associated" tracks.
> 
> 
> 4) It has no ethernet port and thus can NEVER be Blu-Ray player profile 2.0 compliant.
> 
> 
> 5) The PS3 has snappier performance.
> 
> 
> ==============
> 
> 
> ETA: Remember, if you go PS3 for Blu-Ray, I still suggest you have a DIFFERENT player for standard DVDs. The PS3 will give adequate SD-DVD playback, but not the best. And with the Anthem (and a decent, calibrated display) you really can SEE the best.
> 
> 
> If Sony did some more work on their SD-DVD stuff they could EASILY make the PS3 a no-brainer, best bet player for both Blu-Ray and SD-DVD. But I doubt that is a priority for them. However, it's hard to argue with the Oppo for SD-DVD playback and it costs less than many cables out there.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/13677484
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I knew about 1 and 2 (not doing 1080p/24 correctly is inexcusable). #3 would seem to also completely defeat the purpose of getting the Denon.
> 
> 
> I plan on sticking with my Pio Elite HD1 for a while longer (perhaps until early next year).



You are both smart guys.


Forgive me, but I need to inject a little observation.

One of the knocks on HD DVD players was the slow load time. After using the supposedly fastest loading BR player in the PS3 and comparing it to the 3 HD DVD players I've owned, there's just not that much difference.

I was going to pick up my ARC kit after work today but because of the SNOW, I-5 is backed up for some 30 frakkin' miles! It's April! In Seattle!


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13671817
> 
> 
> And don't forget you can have TOP-SHELF
> 
> IR control of the PS3 now. That is what
> 
> kept the PS3 out of my theater. If my
> 
> Crestron can not control it - it doesn't
> 
> go in. Now the PS3 is a GOOD Crestron
> 
> Citizen



Did yours ship yet?


Its been two weeks now and I should have been in the second group of the three 100's. Must be a little behind.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13677740
> 
> 
> You are both smart guys.
> 
> 
> Forgive me, but I need to inject a little observation.
> 
> One of the knocks on HD DVD players was the slow load time. After using the supposedly fastest loading BR player in the PS3 and comparing it to the 3 HD DVD players I've owned, there's just not that much difference.
> 
> I was going to pick up my ARC kit after work today but because of the SNOW, I-5 is backed up for some 30 frakkin' miles! It's April! In Seattle!



Sure, but HD-DVD is no longer an option and other Blu-Ray players are slower.


It's pretty obvious that Blu-Ray is only this year starting to get its act together. But at least it is finally happening.


Anyway I remember the original CD players that were as big as a breadbox and EVERYBODY in the room had to sit down and not breath too hard or the tracking would skip (and for any newbies, I'M NOT KIDDING!). Now we've got CD players you can listen to while jogging -- and they are even obsolete already given memory based players such as iPod.


Technology changes. But the weather in Seattle is likely to continue sucking for a long long time...









--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13677901
> 
> 
> Sure, but HD-DVD is no longer an option and other Blu-Ray players are slower.
> 
> 
> It's pretty obvious that Blu-Ray is only this year starting to get its act together. But at least it is finally happening.
> 
> 
> Technology changes. But the weather in Seattle is likely to continue sucking for a long long time...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



OUCH!!







It's an excellent night for movies though.

Bob have you thought about getting in on one of the PS3 deals that Sony is running?

BTW, I hope your time away is productive and positive.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13675063
> 
> 
> Since some find the PS3 noisy, and some find it ugly, setting it up behind a closed door may be your best option.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob... I have a launch PS3 that has all the bells and whistles... backwards compatibility, SACD, etc...


It was incredibly noisy..... until the 2.3 update.


I ran Folding at Home for 3 days straight... quiet as a mouse..



YMMV, but for me it's actually usable now.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13677740
> 
> 
> You are both smart guys.
> 
> 
> Forgive me, but I need to inject a little observation.
> 
> One of the knocks on HD DVD players was the slow load time. After using the supposedly fastest loading BR player in the PS3 and comparing it to the 3 HD DVD players I've owned, there's just not that much difference.



I have the Toshiba A1 (first gen player) and the Pioneer Elite HD1 (first gen player).


They are both slower than molasses in winter (and that's pretty darn slow).


----------



## Milt99

Rob, you're right on about the A1.

The A2 and A3 are faster and a lot better players in total.

The only reason I said "supposedly fastest" about the PS3 is that it's the only BR player I have any direct experience with.

The slow loading was never and is not a big issue with me.

One thing I do like about BR is no effing combos.

Some people liked them but to me they were the worst.

Extra money for something I didn't need or want.


----------



## thebland

Were posts deleted?


No more 24.000, it had been remedied and all new units are pre-fixed as well..


LFE LPCM bug may be a myth (no confirmation- I will be checking this out this weekend) . No DD+ Blu Ray discs available - so it is a non-issue. DD+ is not a Blu Ray thing. DTS HR is coming in a firmware update. I believe there are a dozen HR discs....


All I am saying is that it is a good player for the Anthem (LPCM)...albeit costly. THe PS3 is a nice piece, too. It's just not for everyone (like the Denon).


Moreover, the new Pioneer will not ship with all DTS capabilities and no ethernet port. Confirmd from Walkamo (of Pioneer).


The Denon looks to be the piece for the moment (or the next year or so). For me and most, the analog portions will remain unused. Moreover, it is essentially silent and a great standalone. It is my 4th BD player (Sony BDP-300, Sony BDP-S500, Panny BD-10 and Denon)... and best of all.


Does the PS3 do 480i over HDMI? (No) and no RS-232 or typical remote control..


Nothing to get heated about... Price aside, why not use it for an Anthem?


Bottom line, the Denon is a competent piece that will do awesome video and DTS MA over LPCM and you don't have to wait for the [potentially] next best thing.... It is here, now and available..



FWIW - It is about twice as fast as my HD DVD XA2.


----------



## muad'dib

I have been playing aroud with the DETAIL ENHANCMENT section..


What value should I do for the Threshold??



Also, if using this cool feature, what should I do with the TV settings? Meaning, should I turn OFF sharpness, etc on the TV, or leave them at the default vales (usually in the mid section).


Thanx..


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13677357
> 
> 
> I haven't seen this since I don't use Edges On for any of my sources, but your problem MAY be related to the problem I have with Video Source Adjust menu settings not being loaded properly at power up.
> 
> 
> If so, you would see it in the Video Source Adjust menu -- i.e., if you open that menu and look at the Edges setting it will be wrong, and manually correcting it will make it right again.
> 
> 
> If that's what you are seeing -- that Edges is not being properly remembered for each source over power cycles or source selection changes and that the menu itself is showing the incorrect value -- then you have a bug and should report it to Anthem.
> 
> 
> If the menu is showing the CORRECT value, but it doesn't seem to actually be taking effect, double check that your Scale Out setting hasn't mysteriously changed to Bypass. Then try changing Edges manually to see if it kicks in again. In any event, this is a DIFFERENT bug and should be reported to Anthem.
> 
> 
> Remember that Video Source Adjust settings, including Edges, are retained on a per input source basis. So TV1 has a different record of these settings than TV2 for example. Make sure you are going back to the same input source and are not just getting confused about similar, but different, sources.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Thanks for the thoughts.


It doesn't look like my problems mirror your own with settings load up. My settings are loaded correctly at start up and stay correctly set within all the menus throughout.


The problem is that the _effect_ of the setting is lost when switching inputs or when the input goes through a resolution change. The effect is regained by cycling through the settings for a given input (TV1->TV2->TV3->TV4->TV1). Once getting back to the starting setting, the correct effect for the menu setting for that source setting. It's also regained by going back into the Edges On setting menu and tweaking the value one way or the other.


I'm encountering this entirely _because_ I'm trying to leverage the ability of the AVM50 to hold different settings for each source setting. For example, TV1 is set unmodified. TV2 has some edge enhancement dialed in and a small amount of edges on. TV3 is for 4x3 SD and forces 4x3 aspect and Letter/Pillar Box, has edge enhancement and noise reduction dialed in, and more Edge on than TV2 (as SD TV tends to have a lot of edge trash that shows up on modern TVs). TV4 is for SD shows in letterbox, so it forces 16x9, Anamorphic stretch, similar edge enhancement/noise to TV3, Edges On more like TV2. As a result, I'm intimately aware of how each setting SHOULD look, and when it's lost, I notice immediately.


The unfortunate fact is that in TV3 as described above, without switching sources in any way, just going from an SD show (480i) to a TiVo menu (720p) and then back to an SD show (480i), the SD show _starts out_ with edge trash pushed off the screen. But when I come back to it after the TiVo menu the edge garbage is back as though the Edges setting was turned off. Checking the menu shows it still being set to on.


Incidentally, the Edges On setting also appears to interact in a funny way when the source is set for Letter/Pillar Box and the source material is 16x9 HD (720p or 1080i). Rather than edging out, a gray border grows in as I increase the Edges On setting.


-Ravi


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13669141
> 
> 
> That must be frustrating. I'm in Singapore and my ARC-1 arrived this week, picking it up from my dealer tomorrow



We must be the first 2 in Singpore to get the ARC-1. Took only 2 weeks from order to receipt, half way round the world! How did your installation go?

Ben


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13675063
> 
> 
> Just a quick editorial comment regarding Blu-Ray players: Right now, with the addition of DTS-HD MA decoding, the PS3 strikes me as the best choice for use with the Anthems. I'm thinking seriously about buying one as my FIRST Blu-Ray player.
> 
> 
> Its weakness in remote control can be handled with the bluetooth to IR adapter discussed above.
> 
> 
> It is NOT the best player for standard DVD playback with the Anthems because it does not offer HDMI 480i output, and does not offer automatic switching of setups depending on whether you are viewing Blu-Ray or SD-DVD.
> 
> 
> So you should plan on using a different player for SD-DVD (such as the Oppo).
> 
> 
> It will be a neat trick if any of the upcoming stand alone players this year can offer enough to compete against what the PS3 offers today. For example, if you are an Anthem user, the Denon 3800 is definitely NOT a superior choice. The Panasonic BD50, the Pioneer 05FD, and the Sony standalone player due out in the fall will be hard pressed, I think, to match the PS3's Blu-Ray performance for Anthem owners.
> 
> 
> Since some find the PS3 noisy, and some find it ugly, setting it up behind a closed door may be your best option.
> 
> 
> If anyone disagrees, feel free to PM what I'm missing here.
> 
> --Bob



Agree with all Bob. It is a great player although it is awkward looking in a rack (without a custom face plate that has it sticking out 2.5 inches), but I close the cabinet door and it is out of sight. It is a bit noisy because of the fan and it is HOT (it ups my rack temp by over 10 degrees). Also, my 11 year-old daughter likes it for games (try that with a Denon 3800).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13677306
> 
> 
> Not with the V1.31 D2 firmware. I couldn't spot a single SD-HQV failure when playing HDMI 480i from my Pioneer 59avi into the D2.
> 
> --Bob



TRUE TRUE TRUE - I'm still on 1.11 FW


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13677853
> 
> 
> Did yours ship yet?
> 
> 
> Its been two weeks now and I should have been in the second group of the three 100's. Must be a little behind.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



I received two of them LAST WEEK.


I would not be surprised if there is a week delay crossing the boarder!


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13677853
> 
> 
> Did yours ship yet?
> 
> 
> Its been two weeks now and I should have been in the second group of the three 100's. Must be a little behind.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



I got conformation, mine was shipped out on the 17th. Should receive my unit next week.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/13678331
> 
> 
> The Denon looks to be the piece for the moment (or the next year or so). For me and most, the analog portions will remain unused. Moreover, it is essentially silent and a great standalone. It is my 4th BD player (Sony BDP-300, Sony BDP-S500, Panny BD-10 and Denon)... and best of all.
> 
> 
> .



The Sony s550 looks good. Supposedly out this fall for MSRP 500.

It will have 480i/1080p24 (source direct mode similar to the s300) as well as internal decoding for everything (including DTS-MA) and 7.1 analog outputs to boot.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1000180


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/13679969
> 
> 
> The Sony s550 looks good. Supposedly out this fall for MSRP 500.
> 
> It will have 480i/1080p24 (source direct mode similar to the s300) as well as internal decoding for everything (including DTS-MA) and 7.1 analog outputs to boot.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1000180



It does look like a do it all player. It's biggest problem is a fall or winter release. Many enthusiasts, like myself, are impatient...


----------



## tngiloy

I'm thinking about making the jump to BR, and it seems from a lot of the posts that the Sony ps3 is the way to go, especially when paired with the D2.

One thing I don't understand is the the problem with the ps3 remote that has been alluded to here. I have the URC MX900 universal remote that is able to to send both IR and RF commands, and download the commands from their website or learn from the supplied remote.

Does the ps3 come with a remote that can be learned from? I would only need to learn or download the basic commands-on/off, >, >>,


----------



## funlvr1965

Heres your answer, I use the nyko remote and learned the codes into my RTI T3 remote and now my ps3 is controlled from my touchscreen remote like any other one of my components so as far as im concerned the ps3 remote issue is solved

http://www.nyko.com/nyko/products/?i=113


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13674873
> 
> 
> The audio modes offered at any given time depend upon (1) the type of audio input signal being received at the moment, (2) whether or not you have a 7.1 speaker configuration, and (3) whether or not you have THX post processing turned on.
> 
> 
> If you are receiving DD 5.1 audio, for example, and happen to have a 5.1 speaker configuration, you will HAVE NO OPTIONS for audio other than whether or not THX post processing is turned on. That's because the other audio modes deal with how you want to raise your 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output, and you don't have 7.1 speakers.
> 
> 
> If you are receiving stereo or mono audio, you will find that some of the audio modes (such as Mono-Academy mode) are only available if THX post processing is turned off.
> 
> --Bob



Bob what about 6 channel pcm over hdmi? Same if transmitting a 5.1 pcm soundtrack from say the PS3?


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13675063
> 
> 
> Just a quick editorial comment regarding Blu-Ray players: Right now, with the addition of DTS-HD MA decoding, the PS3 strikes me as the best choice for use with the Anthems. I'm thinking seriously about buying one as my FIRST Blu-Ray player.
> 
> 
> Its weakness in remote control can be handled with the bluetooth to IR adapter discussed above.
> 
> 
> It is NOT the best player for standard DVD playback with the Anthems because it does not offer HDMI 480i output, and does not offer automatic switching of setups depending on whether you are viewing Blu-Ray or SD-DVD.
> 
> 
> So you should plan on using a different player for SD-DVD (such as the Oppo).
> 
> 
> It will be a neat trick if any of the upcoming stand alone players this year can offer enough to compete against what the PS3 offers today. For example, if you are an Anthem user, the Denon 3800 is definitely NOT a superior choice. The Panasonic BD50, the Pioneer 05FD, and the Sony standalone player due out in the fall will be hard pressed, I think, to match the PS3's Blu-Ray performance for Anthem owners.
> 
> 
> Since some find the PS3 noisy, and some find it ugly, setting it up behind a closed door may be your best option.
> 
> 
> If anyone disagrees, feel free to PM what I'm missing here.
> 
> --Bob





Bob, I totally agree with you. I just got one and it is great and have not had any problems at all. Also, I think it is very quiet...I can not hear it at all. Quick load times as well. It is a great match with the D2 and good value not even considering all the other capabilities you get with the ps3.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13680520
> 
> 
> Does the ps3 come with a remote that can be learned from? I would only need to learn or download the basic commands-on/off, >, >>,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/13680817
> 
> 
> Bob what about 6 channel pcm over hdmi? Same if transmitting a 5.1 pcm soundtrack from say the PS3?



Same deal. If you don't have a 7.1 speaker setup, there's nothing for the audio modes to do so they are not offered as choices. THX post processing is your only choice (along with futzing with the channel volume levels and applying bass/treble/dynamics sorts of control).


If you DO have a 7.1 speaker setup, then the audio mode choices give you a variety of ways to raise the 5.1 PCM input to 7.1 speaker output, and THX post processing (if turned on) also does additional magic. It is purely personal preference as to how you like your 5.1 input raised to 7.1 speaker output.


But if you have a 5.1 speaker setup then all the decisions have already been made by the professional audio editor who mixed that sound track.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/13680837
> 
> 
> Bob, I totally agree with you. I just got one and it is great and have not had any problems at all. Also, I think it is very quiet...I can not hear it at all. Quick load times as well. It is a great match with the D2 and good value not even considering all the other capabilities you get with the ps3.



Now I just have to be patient to wait a month to get their NEW 80Gb version (I want the SACD playback)! I wonder what else they might have changed in that besides lowering the price?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/13679714
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the thoughts.
> 
> 
> It doesn't look like my problems mirror your own with settings load up. My settings are loaded correctly at start up and stay correctly set within all the menus throughout.
> 
> 
> The problem is that the _effect_ of the setting is lost when switching inputs or when the input goes through a resolution change. The effect is regained by cycling through the settings for a given input (TV1->TV2->TV3->TV4->TV1). Once getting back to the starting setting, the correct effect for the menu setting for that source setting. It's also regained by going back into the Edges On setting menu and tweaking the value one way or the other.
> 
> 
> I'm encountering this entirely _because_ I'm trying to leverage the ability of the AVM50 to hold different settings for each source setting. For example, TV1 is set unmodified. TV2 has some edge enhancement dialed in and a small amount of edges on. TV3 is for 4x3 SD and forces 4x3 aspect and Letter/Pillar Box, has edge enhancement and noise reduction dialed in, and more Edge on than TV2 (as SD TV tends to have a lot of edge trash that shows up on modern TVs). TV4 is for SD shows in letterbox, so it forces 16x9, Anamorphic stretch, similar edge enhancement/noise to TV3, Edges On more like TV2. As a result, I'm intimately aware of how each setting SHOULD look, and when it's lost, I notice immediately.
> 
> 
> The unfortunate fact is that in TV3 as described above, without switching sources in any way, just going from an SD show (480i) to a TiVo menu (720p) and then back to an SD show (480i), the SD show _starts out_ with edge trash pushed off the screen. But when I come back to it after the TiVo menu the edge garbage is back as though the Edges setting was turned off. Checking the menu shows it still being set to on.
> 
> 
> Incidentally, the Edges On setting also appears to interact in a funny way when the source is set for Letter/Pillar Box and the source material is 16x9 HD (720p or 1080i). Rather than edging out, a gray border grows in as I increase the Edges On setting.
> 
> 
> -Ravi



It looks to me like you have found a new bug. You should give Anthem tech support a call, and follow up with an email that details your setup and the particular source change steps you do which trigger the faulty result -- particularly if you have a sequence which reliably and repeatably fails.


We've had no other reports here of this bug, but you are exercising a portion of the Anthem software that most people aren't using heavily.


As to the last point on Edges and Letter/Pillar Box, I'm not sure that what you are reporting is at odds with what's supposed to happen.


Edges is an extension of the Crop Input function. It reduces the size of the input video (and slightly alters the shape since the same pixel crop is applied to all 4 sides as opposed to trying to retain the original source aspect ratio by doing slightly different cropping on the sides vs. on the top/bottom). If your Scale Out is Letter/Pillar Box, then the scaler adjusts the shape of the CROPPED input to match the shape you have defined in your Video Output configuration by PADDING the cropped input as necessary in the short dimension. I.e., additional cropping produces wider letter box or pillar box bars.


If your Scale Out is Anamorphic, then the scalar adjusts the cropped input to match the specified video output by stretching the short dimension uniformly across that dimension. I.e., additional cropping produces additional stretch.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/13676629
> 
> 
> I, personally, prefer 1.1 over 2.0. I tried the garbage, downloadable extras on the 'fully compliant' HD DVD side and saw no value and only a conduit to bring in a virus, spam or a slow down / lock up to my player.



I wouldn't be at all surprised to find that current BD-Live (Blu-Ray Player Profile 2.0) content is lame. The thing is, it is a path for content to be made available, and over time some studio or other will actually try to exploit that in ways that *MIGHT* be interesting.


[Compare to HDMI V1.3's "Deep Color". Now there's a feature that is truly pointless in the Blu-Ray world since the disc format can not record "Deep Color" content even if some studio WANTED to put it on the disc.]


It may be that the internet connectivity for Blu-Ray profile 2.0 never ever becomes interesting; that it just becomes a way to spam player owners, and that's all it ever "offers". We just don't know.


But Profile 2.0 really is the first "complete" Blu-Ray implementation. Its arrival indicates Blu-Ray player technology is finally getting done, and that changes now will be on the disc side (more elaborate extras and internet content) rather than on the player side (implementing new features).


[Mind you, current DTS-HD MA decoder implementations are still missing some "features" which may or may not have market value. But that's just DTS up to their usual nonsense.]


Since there is a decent Profile 2.0 player available now (the PS3 with the latest firmware), it strikes me as a bad move to buy a player knowing it can never be upgraded to Profile 2.0 unless you have to do so to fit in with an existing, non-HDMI based audio system.


That said, Blu-Ray is by no means a "mature" product yet. It is still the case that corners are being cut in some areas of the product designs -- such as the lack of proper HDMI 480i output from the PS3 for standard DVD playback.


But now is the time, I think for CONSERVATIVE "early adopters" to buy into Blu-Ray -- i.e., you can finally get a "complete" Blu-Ray implementation even if there are still improvements yet to be made in secondary functionality of the players.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/13679098
> 
> 
> I have been playing aroud with the DETAIL ENHANCMENT section..
> 
> 
> What value should I do for the Threshold??
> 
> 
> 
> Also, if using this cool feature, what should I do with the TV settings? Meaning, should I turn OFF sharpness, etc on the TV, or leave them at the default vales (usually in the mid section).
> 
> 
> Thanx..



First, be sure you calibrate the Sharpness level in your TV with Detail Enhancement TURNED OFF in the Anthem (which is also the factory default setting). See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.


It is vitally important that you reduce Sharpness (really "vertical edge emphasis") in your TV to eliminate "haloing" (really "ringing") of contrasty vertical edges.


If you do that right, odds are you really won't need to use the Anthem's Detail Enhancement control. Turning on edge enhancement produces the "false detail" effect where you think you are seeing more detail but are actually only seeing ringing. This is particularly true in movies, which are usually produced to have a soft look that should be retained in your viewing setup.


But of course it doesn't hurt to play with the control and see for yourself.


The Threshold setting helps the vertical edge enhancement algorithm distinguish real edges from noise in the input video -- i.e., so that you aren't also emphasizing the noise. Thus, the correct setting for Threshold depends upon how noisy the source content is. Start with the factory default setting.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13681693
> 
> 
> First, be sure you calibrate the Sharpness level in your TV with Detail Enhancement TURNED OFF in the Anthem (which is also the factory default setting). See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> It is vitally important that you reduce Sharpness (really "vertical edge emphasis") in your TV to eliminate "haloing" (really "ringing") of contrasty vertical edges.
> 
> 
> If you do that right, odds are you really won't need to use the Anthem's Detail Enhancement control. Turning on edge enhancement produces the "false detail" effect where you think you are seeing more detail but are actually only seeing ringing. This is particularly true in movies, which are usually produced to have a soft look that should be retained in your viewing setup.
> 
> 
> But of course it doesn't hurt to play with the control and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> The Threshold setting helps the vertical edge enhancement algorithm distinguish real edges from noise in the input video -- i.e., so that you aren't also emphasizing the noise. Thus, the correct setting for Threshold depends upon how noisy the source content is. Start with the factory default setting.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob..










I guess I will just play with the setting until I get the desired sharpness I'm looki

ng for..


I'm using a front projector (soon to be an epson 1080 UB pro), and find that every projector I have tried seems a little soft compard to flat panel LCD.. But, with this enhancement on the D2 I seem to get the same crisp sharpeness now..



Anyway, thanx much for the info.. Now I know what to look for, and how the control works..


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13679798
> 
> 
> We must be the first 2 in Singpore to get the ARC-1. Took only 2 weeks from order to receipt, half way round the world! How did your installation go?
> 
> Ben



Hi...installed yesterday with no problems, ran the software and completed the measurments, calculating and upload. I did get a few error messages concerning "excessive background noise" during the sweeps which surprised me since the only noise in the room was the (relatively quiet) sound of the fans in my pc. Anyhow, I did manage to complete a full set of sweeps.


The ARC has definitely improved my cinema settings across all three of my sources (XA2, PS3, 980H). Much more detail and clarity in the soundstage, especially across the front. I can't say yet whether there is any real improvement in the low frequencies, more listening required.


For music, I'm turning ARC off. I have a good universal 2-channel source (Ayre C-5xe) that delivers a wonderful analog signal to my D2. I've switched back and forth between Anlg-Dir and Anlg-DSP (with Room EQ on) for comparison, and nothing beats good old Anlg-Dir.


How did you install go Ben?


----------



## dweltman

I am curious about applying ARC room EQ to high bit rate music. In the Anthem pdf statement on HDMI, it indicates that HDMI 1.1 will support the Blu-Ray standard up to 5 channels of 192/24. The first page of this thread indicates a max of 5 channels 96/24, with 192/24 only for 2 channel. Has anyone experimented with the Oppo 983 and verified the max MC bit rate input that they can send via HDMI to the Anthem. With my PS3, I was able to get 88/24. I listen to a lot of SACD's, and am interested in knowing the max bit rate I can send to the D2, as opposed to redigitizing the 5.1 analog input to use the ARC-1. I currently use an Esoteric DV-50 for SACD through the MC analog input, but am interested in comparing it to a straight digital path with Room EQ.


----------



## dweltman

Well, I should know better than to post without searching first. I gather the answer is that the max for SACD from an Oppo to the D2 is also 88/24. (Bummer).


Does anyone out there own a quality analog output SACD player, an Oppo 980 (or other Oppo), and the ARC-1, and can compare straight 5.1 analog pass-through vs. (slightly) downrezed 88/24 digital with room correction?


I think Kal R from Stereophile has made some comparisons with the Integra, but that can accept DSD or 192/24 PCM from an Oppo.


I would try and make the comparison with my PS3, but the thing is so damn noisy that serious music listening is out of the question. (Bob P- as an aside, you are totally wrong about the PS3 being the best combo with the D2!)


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/13680740
> 
> 
> Heres your answer, I use the nyko remote and learned the codes into my RTI T3 remote and now my ps3 is controlled from my touchscreen remote like any other one of my components so as far as im concerned the ps3 remote issue is solved
> 
> http://www.nyko.com/nyko/products/?i=113



I use the Nyko also. Its downside is no on/off.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13680520
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about making the jump to BR, and it seems from a lot of the posts that the Sony ps3 is the way to go, especially when paired with the D2.
> 
> One thing I don't understand is the the problem with the ps3 remote that has been alluded to here. I have the URC MX900 universal remote that is able to to send both IR and RF commands, and download the commands from their website or learn from the supplied remote.
> 
> Does the ps3 come with a remote that can be learned from? I would only need to learn or download the basic commands-on/off, >, >>,


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/13685435
> 
> 
> Does anyone out there own a quality analog output SACD player, an Oppo 980 (or other Oppo), and the ARC-1, and can compare straight 5.1 analog pass-through vs. (slightly) downrezed 88/24 digital with room correction?



I have the Oppo 980 as well as a Denon DVD-2930CI. One of the comparisions I did was to listen to the Denon analog stereo vs. the Oppo analog stereo vs Oppo HDMI digital. The SACDs I used were Ray Charles Genius Loves Company, Vanska/Minnesota Symphony Beethoven 4 & 5 and Dire Straits Brothers in Arms. DVD-A (advanced resolution stereo) discs I used were Eagles Hotel California and AIX Bach Brandenburgs 3 & 5.


D2 had Room EQ on, fronts crossed over at 35Hz (per ARC-1) and subwoofer on.


(BTW my D2 goes through an A2(and A5) to v.3 Paradigm Studio 60s(and CC-470 and ADP-470s) w/ Velodyne SPL-1000R.)


The Oppo through HDMI to the D2 came out on top. Imaging was the sharpest with slightly more detail in vocals and string instruments than either analog connections. Electric bass was well defined, a very warm presentation. If you don't have Genius Loves Company and you like Ray Charles in the least bit, you must own this SACD.


I could not choose between the Oppo analog vs the Denon analog. Both were nearly as good as the Oppo HDMI. The HDMI digital just had enough extra detail to make it the winner for me. On a separate note, I totally prefer the Oppo 5.1 ch analog to the Denon. I have never trusted the Denon bass management. Obviously with stereo source material this is irrelevant.


Do a $180 experiment, get the 980 and compare it to your Arcam. You might be surprised.


All that said, there are two bugs in the 980 that keep it from being a perfect piece of gear. 1. First track CD/SACD/DVD-A playback on startup will skip the first half second of playback. Nearly a deal breaker for some people. 2. Between the D2 and 980, 3.0, 4.0 and 5.0 SACDs/DVD-A are misinterpreted as 2.0 by the D2. Oppo has recognized this a defect in the 980 and their firmware engineers are working on a patch. This bugs me more than #1 as I probably have about 50 SACDs (out of hundreds) that are 3.0, 4.0 and 5.0. (The Denon doesn't have either of these issues.)


(And if you compare the 480i DVD video output between the Denon and the Oppo - the Oppo wins, it doesn't have the chroma bug and even using the D2's chroma bug fix, the Oppo still produces a better picture - Sony Pearl/110" Screen Innovations)


Bart


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13684873
> 
> 
> ..... How did you install go Ben?



Haha, knew you'd ask. Actually am just sitting down and admiring the package so far. Fact is I'm waiting for my shipment of RealTraps to arrive from the US. Intend to treat my HT first before doing any EQing. Figure it'll go easier on the processing and produce a better result.


After all the horror stories posted on these pages, am glad your installation was successful. By the way, I like the Ayre too.

___ Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/13686243
> 
> 
> All that said, there are two bugs in the 980 that keep it from being a perfect piece of gear. 1. First track CD/SACD/DVD-A playback on startup will skip the first half second of playback. Nearly a deal breaker for some people.



In Setup / Source Setup for that input into the D2, make sure Auto Dig = NO is set and Muting = Min is set.


This will speed up acquisition and start of audio for any digital audio input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/13685435
> 
> 
> Well, I should know better than to post without searching first. I gather the answer is that the max for SACD from an Oppo to the D2 is also 88/24. (Bummer).
> 
> 
> Does anyone out there own a quality analog output SACD player, an Oppo 980 (or other Oppo), and the ARC-1, and can compare straight 5.1 analog pass-through vs. (slightly) downrezed 88/24 digital with room correction?
> 
> 
> I think Kal R from Stereophile has made some comparisons with the Integra, but that can accept DSD or 192/24 PCM from an Oppo.
> 
> 
> I would try and make the comparison with my PS3, but the thing is so damn noisy that serious music listening is out of the question. (Bob P- as an aside, you are totally wrong about the PS3 being the best combo with the D2!)



Anthem has not been particularly forthcoming on the details here, but it is my understanding that the D2 and AVM-50 accept up to 96KHz/24 bit on 5.1 channels for HDMI PCM input. The D2 (but not the AVM-50) then upsamples that to 192KHz and maintains 192KHz throughout the digital audio processing chain and into the DACs for conversion to analog audio for output. The upsampling doesn't improve the input of course, but it means that all of the digital audio processing between input and output works more cleanly.


A player may choose to output 88KHz to the Anthems instead of 96KHz for its own, internal reasons.


As usual, when playing SACD or DVD-Audio over HDMI PCM into the Anthems, you must make sure the *VIDEO* output resolution of the player is set to 720p or higher, as HDMI doesn't support the full audio bandwidth needed by SACD or DVD-Audio when the video stream (in which the digital audio is embedded) is only 480p or 480i.


----------------------------


I don't know what vintage PS3 you have, but all indications I've seen so far are that current production models of the PS3, running the latest firmware, are not excessively noisy.


Of course I'll see what happens when I get one in June.


The Oppo vs PS3 debate for SACD playback seems to be quite lively, and I suppose I'll get to hear that for myself as well. But my recommendation was specifically and exclusively with regard to BLU-RAY disc playback for Anthem D2 or AVM-50 owners.


I do not recommend the PS3 as the best "universal" player which happens to include Blu-Ray.


I don't recommend *ANY* player as being in that category yet (including the Denon 3800). And I don't think the upcoming stand-alone Blu-Ray players from Panasonic, Pioneer, and Sony will be in that category either. I suspect it will be 2009 before we see the first, truly decent "universal" player including Blu-Ray.


I fully expect that folks who buy a PS3 for Blu-Ray playback will need to have at least one other player for best playback of non Blu-Ray discs.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13684873
> 
> 
> Hi...installed yesterday with no problems, ran the software and completed the measurments, calculating and upload. I did get a few error messages concerning "excessive background noise" during the sweeps which surprised me since the only noise in the room was the (relatively quiet) sound of the fans in my pc. Anyhow, I did manage to complete a full set of sweeps.



Anthem dropped the test sweep tone volume level between the ARC 1.0 and ARC 1.1 versions (including V1.30 to V1.31 firmware change) since the higher volume was causing problems with some people's subwoofers.


That makes ARC more sensitive to whether it is hearing a good sweep tone or whether there's some noise getting in the way. You may have to repeat some of the sweep tones a few times before ARC gets happy.


I suspect Anthem will boost the sweep tone volume back up a bit as a better compromise in their next release of the ARC software.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/13684251
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I will just play with the setting until I get the desired sharpness I'm looki
> 
> ng for..
> 
> 
> I'm using a front projector (soon to be an epson 1080 UB pro), and find that every projector I have tried seems a little soft compard to flat panel LCD.. But, with this enhancement on the D2 I seem to get the same crisp sharpeness now..
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, thanx much for the info.. Now I know what to look for, and how the control works..



Also be aware that far too many movies have excessive "edge enhancement" added during the processing for transfer to disc. This is a gross mistake in the transfer editing, but it is still being done. There's nothing you can do to remove that once it is in there. Different disc releases of the SAME movie (even European vs. USA releases) may have varying amounts of bogus EE -- so buying a different disc of the same movie may be the best fix. See the disc reviews forum here for guidance on specific discs. NOTE: It is not always the case that the more expensive "ultimate" or "collector's" releases have the best transfer.


Typically, EE in the disc transfer will cause ALL edges to halo, not just vertical edges. That's one way for a home theater user to tell he is dealing with a badly produced transfer to disc rather than bad "Sharpness" settings in his equipment, as Sharpness just "enhances" vertical edges.


The point is, between the different INHERENT detail level of live TV and movies (which are intentionally made softer), and between movies recorded with or without bogus transfer EE, you can confuse yourself quite a bit as to what settings are best.


I recommend you use a calibration DVD and reduce Sharpness in the TV to remove even the tiniest trace of brighter haloing either side of vertical black lines. Do this with Detail Enhancement turned off in the Anthem and with any similar "feature" turned off in your player. The correct Sharpness setting in your TV, even in its "movie" mode", is likely to be SIGNIFICANTLY lower than the factory provided default setting. The proper setting is likely to be in the lower 1/3 of the available range.


Having done that, personally I've never found any good reason to turn on Detail Enhancement in the Anthem.


If you crank up Detail Enhancement (or Sharpness) to try to make Movies look like live TV or to try to make correctly transferred movies look more like transfers that include bogus EE, you are actually *HIDING* some of the real detail in the correctly edited movies and replacing it with "false detail" that the eye perceives as a result of the ringing of edges.


I'm harping on this because excessive vertical edge enhancement settings are a very VERY common mistake to find in home theater setups.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13687274
> 
> 
> Anthem dropped the test sweep tone volume level between the ARC 1.0 and ARC 1.1 versions (including V1.30 to V1.31 firmware change) since the higher volume was causing problems with some people's subwoofers.
> 
> I suspect Anthem will boost the sweep tone volume back up a bit as a better compromise in their next release of the ARC software.
> 
> --Bob



Funny you should mention that Bob.

I uploaded 1.31 and ran ARC-1 for the first time today.

The firmware loaded fine.

Right off the bat, the freq sweep sounded _very_ enemic compared to ones I've done in the past.

I kept getting an error 0X03, basically saying that ARC could not capture a valid sample.

The max distance I could get a valid reading was 8 ft. from the left speaker. Hmm, what to do.

I went to the D2 setup menu and cranked up the Noise Level setting in the Level Calibration from 0 to 5db. That did the trick.

Now I could get readings from my actual seating distance, 12 ft. for the center seat.

I then noticed that during the freq sweeps my left front speaker had no top end. Great. A blown ribbon. SUPER!

We'd watched 2 films and listened to some music last night and hadn't noticed a thing.









After the initial round of measurements(7), when ARC started performing the calculations, the VS2005 debugger came up indicating that the program had crashed.

Even better.

I have several versions of Visual Studio installed on this PC and wondered during the ARC install if this was going to be an issue.

I restarted the app and indeed when the graphs rendered, the left front speaker sweep tanked above 5k. To make a long story not quite so long, I have a stage and screenwall in my room, in the process of moving the speaker out of the way to access the sub amp and LCR amp, the bi-amp jumpers on the posts had come loose and there was no signal going to the ribbon tweeter. Pheew. Tightened every thing up and re-ran the measurements. Ahhh, much better.

I decided to try Greg Timber's suggestion about xovers and set the LCRs and rears to 90 and the subs to 70 and uploaded. ARC had initially set the LCRs to 55(!). I left the sides to ARC setting of 125.

I then A\\B'd the opening sequence of Sunshine several times. There are a couple of brief but pretty good LFE samples.

EQ off, the LFE is a bit stronger than with EQ on.

I think I need to live with these settings awhile before I can form an impression.

It certainly didn't make things worse









More more weird thing happened. When I retrieved the info, tweaked the targets, re-calced and uploaded to the D2, the graphs went blank.


----------



## Kal Rubinson

This is my first post here since I just unpacked the D-2 and have a few problems which I was not able to find listed here in this formidable thread via AVS search:


1. All the coax/digital audio inputs are subject to intermittant noise which sounds like harsh limiting and is curable only with a reboot of the D-2.


2. All the HDMI sources work fine except for the SA 4250HD cable box. I cannot get audio via HDMI from it nor can I get a reliable, stable video signal at any resolution (of the 6-7 logical possibilities I tried). Not the cable/input on the D-2 (switched those with other sources) and not the SA box (switched to the Integra and back). Seems like an incompatibility but I wonder if there's cure. Working now with component video and coax digital audio.


----------



## Milt99

Hey Kal!

Welcome to the thread.

I'm sure many will be interested in your impressions.

Unfortunately, it doesn't sound like you're getting off to a smooth start.

I don't have any experience with the cable box thing.

I would assume your D2 on firmware 1.31.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Do any of you use HD Tivo through Cable (Using Cable Cards) with the Anthem D2(instead of using the Cable box provided by the Cable company)? *Is the HDMI of the HD Tivo compatiable with the Anthem D2?*

Thanks in advance for any of your replies.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13689854
> 
> 
> Do any of you use HD Tivo through Cable (Using Cable Cards) with the Anthem D2(instead of using the Cable box provided by the Cable company)? *Is the HDMI of the HD Tivo compatiable with the Anthem D2?*
> 
> Thanks in advance for any of your replies.



I use a TiVo-HD on Comcast with Cable Cards via HDMI.


NO problems.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/13689781
> 
> 
> This is my first post here since I just unpacked the D-2 and have a few problems which I was not able to find listed here in this formidable thread via AVS search:
> 
> 
> 1. All the coax/digital audio inputs are subject to intermittant noise which sounds like harsh limiting and is curable only with a reboot of the D-2.
> 
> 
> 2. All the HDMI sources work fine except for the SA 4250HD cable box. I cannot get audio via HDMI from it nor can I get a reliable, stable video signal at any resolution (of the 6-7 logical possibilities I tried). Not the cable/input on the D-2 (switched those with other sources) and not the SA box (switched to the Integra and back). Seems like an incompatibility but I wonder if there's cure. Working now with component video and coax digital audio.



You might want to check further on other threads but I remember several

SA4250HD users stating there was a problem with outputing 5.1 via HDMI from that unit via HDMI and they had to use a coaxial connection for their sound.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13689862
> 
> 
> I use a TiVo-HD on Comcast with Cable Cards via HDMI.
> 
> 
> NO problems.



Thanks drkrankz. Have you been happy with how it works in your system? Great picture & sound ect?

And someone told me eventually there will be a firmware upgrade when cable system use Switched Video? Correct.

Do you have the lower priced one or the higher priced original?


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/13689781
> 
> 
> This is my first post here since I just unpacked the D-2 and have a few problems which I was not able to find listed here in this formidable thread via AVS search:
> 
> 
> 1. All the coax/digital audio inputs are subject to intermittant noise which sounds like harsh limiting and is curable only with a reboot of the D-2.
> 
> 
> 2. All the HDMI sources work fine except for the SA 4250HD cable box. I cannot get audio via HDMI from it nor can I get a reliable, stable video signal at any resolution (of the 6-7 logical possibilities I tried). Not the cable/input on the D-2 (switched those with other sources) and not the SA box (switched to the Integra and back). Seems like an incompatibility but I wonder if there's cure. Working now with component video and coax digital audio.



My experience with the SA 8300HDC sounds similar, except video has always worked via HDMI. Using SPDIF coax for audio.


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/13689781
> 
> 
> This is my first post here since I just unpacked the D-2 and have a few problems which I was not able to find listed here in this formidable thread via AVS search:
> 
> 
> 1. All the coax/digital audio inputs are subject to intermittant noise which sounds like harsh limiting and is curable only with a reboot of the D-2.
> 
> 
> 2. All the HDMI sources work fine except for the SA 4250HD cable box. I cannot get audio via HDMI from it nor can I get a reliable, stable video signal at any resolution (of the 6-7 logical possibilities I tried). Not the cable/input on the D-2 (switched those with other sources) and not the SA box (switched to the Integra and back). Seems like an incompatibility but I wonder if there's cure. Working now with component video and coax digital audio.




Kal:


I use the 4250HD without problem. Make sure your firmware version on the D2 is current, as I find the 1.31 version works well with it. Also, I find setting the SA box to output 1080i minimizes the handshake issues when changing channels.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13689862
> 
> 
> I use a TiVo-HD on Comcast with Cable Cards via HDMI.
> 
> 
> NO problems.



Me too (other than losing 15 HD stations on Cablevision because of their switch to SDV).


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/13690000
> 
> 
> You might want to check further on other threads but I remember several SA4250HD users stating there was a problem with outputing 5.1 via HDMI from that unit via HDMI and they had to use a coaxial connection for their sound.



Well, I had been using the 4250 with the Integra for the past 3 months and getting everything just fine via HDMI. So, I cannot believe that it is the 4250 at fault.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13691207
> 
> 
> Me too (other than losing 15 HD stations on Cablevision because of their switch to SDV).



I just found this.
http://www.prnewswire.com/cgi-bin/st...4711019&EDATE= 


This set up should work with D2 correct? And allow the HD Tivo to get SDV channels correct? Just checking before I buy one.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13692804
> 
> 
> I just found this.
> http://www.prnewswire.com/cgi-bin/st...4711019&EDATE=
> 
> 
> This set up should work with D2 correct? And allow the HD Tivo to get SDV channels correct? Just checking before I buy one.



SDV is not a D2 issue. You can find a fair amount of information about the SDV/Tivo/CableCard issue e.g.:

.
http://connectedhome2go.com/2008/04/...elabs-interop/ 

http://www.zatznotfunny.com/2008-04/...ning-resolver/ 

http://www.gizmolovers.com/2008/04/1...#comment-23644 


The Tivo HD (the newer, lower priced model) and S3 (the original, higher priced model) both work fine with the D2 (I have a Tivo S3 connected via HDMI for my main TV, component for zone 2 and composite for zone 3 and all work fine).


I have 2 S3s and love them, particularly now that home networking is available for them. I had a SA8300HD for about 1 week a while back, and my wife refused to use it after having had Tivos for many years. Unfortunately, at this moment, if your CATV provider goes SDV, your Tivo (and your other CableCard devices) will not be able to tune the SDV channels. As the press release you linked to indicates, Tivo and the cable industry are working on a "tuning adapter" (formerly "tuning resolver"), which will plug into the Tivo's USB port and, after a firmware upgrade by Tivo, will allow the Tivo to communicate with the cable operator and tune SDV stations.


Hopefully tuning adapters will be available soon. Iinitially the industry indicated they would be available in the 2nd quarter of 2008, but it looks like the timing may slip at least to the summer.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/13690126
> 
> 
> Thanks drkrankz. Have you been happy with how it works in your system? Great picture & sound ect?
> 
> And someone told me eventually there will be a firmware upgrade when cable system use Switched Video? Correct.
> 
> Do you have the lower priced one or the higher priced original?



I have the cheap one - I'm NOT a TiVo fan.


I have (6) Sony DVRs - I love them.


I have seen speculation about some dongle thing

to support SDV.


As *ASW* said - SDV is not a D2 Issue.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13693856
> 
> 
> I have (6) Sony DVRs - I love them.



I didn't realize Sony even made DVRs any more.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/13689781
> 
> 
> This is my first post here since I just unpacked the D-2 and have a few problems which I was not able to find listed here in this formidable thread via AVS search:
> 
> 
> 1. All the coax/digital audio inputs are subject to intermittant noise which sounds like harsh limiting and is curable only with a reboot of the D-2.
> 
> 
> 2. All the HDMI sources work fine except for the SA 4250HD cable box. I cannot get audio via HDMI from it nor can I get a reliable, stable video signal at any resolution (of the 6-7 logical possibilities I tried). Not the cable/input on the D-2 (switched those with other sources) and not the SA box (switched to the Integra and back). Seems like an incompatibility but I wonder if there's cure. Working now with component video and coax digital audio.



Kal,

You should contact Anthem tech support regarding your problem with Coax digital audio. If the behavior of those inputs is changing due to a power cycle then it seems highly likely to me that you have a hardware problem in your D2.


Since you just got your D2, they may be able to arrange a swap out for a replacement unit if you call them soon enough.


I'm assuming you haven't had time to try fiddling with the settings in your new D2, and in any event, I can't think of any setting change you might have set wrong that would screw up input from those but in a way that gets cured by a power cycle of the D2.


One thing to check, however, is that you really ARE using the Coax input when you think you are. I.e., disconnect any RCA stereo pair you might have also connected from that source just to make sure. The D2 can be set to automatically switch between an analog and digital input depending on whether there is audio on the digital input, and if you have both hooked up you may be hearing the analog input for some reason.


--------------------------------------------


HDMI connectivity is a real nuisance with some of these set top boxes. The fact that it works with one AVR does not insure it ought to work with D2 since the D2 will send a different connection options set (EDID info) to the set top box and some of these boxes just get confused by some choices offered to them. I.e., the bug is likely still in the set top box even though the set top box worked with your Integra. Anthem has been able to work around some of these issues in set top boxes, but your set top box may be one they don't have a workaround for. Since you will be contacting Anthem for the other issue, you might as well give them details on your set top box as well and see what they have to say.


Your firmware version in your new D2 should be V1.31. You can see this by pressing Select on the D2 remote and reading the displayed info.


If for some reason you have older firmware, upgrade the firmware and try again.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13695284
> 
> 
> I didn't realize Sony even made DVRs any more.



They have been discontinued for at least two years.


I bought all but one on eBay.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13695468
> 
> 
> Kal,
> 
> Since you just got your D2, they may be able to arrange a swap out for a replacement unit if you call them soon enough.



No problem there as it is a review sample.



> Quote:
> One thing to check, however, is that you really ARE using the Coax input when you think you are. I.e., disconnect any RCA stereo pair you might have also connected from that source just to make sure.



No analog connections at the present time.



> Quote:
> Since you will be contacting Anthem for the other issue, you might as well give them details on your set top box as well and see what they have to say.



Just did. Waiting for a response.



> Quote:
> Your firmware version in your new D2 should be V1.31. You can see this by pressing Select on the D2 remote and reading the displayed info.
> 
> 
> If for some reason you have older firmware, upgrade the firmware and try again.
> 
> --Bob



Will check but, since they just sent it (with ARC), my presumption is that it will be up to date.


Thanks.


Kal


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/13695739
> 
> 
> Will check but, since they just sent it (with ARC), my presumption is that it will be up to date.Kal



I wouldn't be so sure.


----------



## ninja12

Well, today makes 1 full week that my D2 has been out of my possession. After trying several firmware updates, my D2 still would not display the On Screen Display on my TV. If was very iffy, and when it did, it didn't stay on my TV long. I was going to live with this since it displayed on the front panel without any problems. However, I began to notice when I switched from TV source to DVD source, the audio was not present. I had to switch back to TV and back to DVD before the sound would appear. So, I decided then that it was best that I send it back and have Anthem check it out. I must admit that Nick and Piero were very helpful in trying to resolve my issues; but, in the end, it needed to go back. I also noticed an ARC-1 issue. When I unchecked the checkbox that will make Music the same as Movie and click Measure, the measure would end and a popup would appear with no content in the popup box. The popup box only had OK and CANCEL. I also told Nick and Piero about this issue, and they are going to check it out. Anyway, I really miss my D2. Even my wife misses the D2.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/13689781
> 
> 
> This is my first post here since I just unpacked the D-2 and have a few problems which I was not able to find listed here in this formidable thread via AVS search:
> 
> 
> 1. All the coax/digital audio inputs are subject to intermittant noise which sounds like harsh limiting and is curable only with a reboot of the D-2.
> 
> 
> 2. All the HDMI sources work fine except for the SA 4250HD cable box. I cannot get audio via HDMI from it nor can I get a reliable, stable video signal at any resolution (of the 6-7 logical possibilities I tried). Not the cable/input on the D-2 (switched those with other sources) and not the SA box (switched to the Integra and back). Seems like an incompatibility but I wonder if there's cure. Working now with component video and coax digital audio.



Kal does this set top box have the new Navigator guide and software? I was just upgraded to Navigator by TWC and lost the sound. I had an SA HD8300. They said try the 8240. I got that and then I got nothing. No picture or sound. They found an older SA 8300HD for me with the older guide. But when this eventually gets updated I will again at least lose sound. The D2 does not like this new update by TWC to their HD DVR's. That is why I was asking about an HD Tivo.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/13695739
> 
> 
> No problem there as it is a review sample.
> 
> 
> No analog connections at the present time.
> 
> 
> Just did. Waiting for a response.
> 
> 
> Will check but, since they just sent it (with ARC), my presumption is that it will be up to date.
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Kal



It may have 1.30. But I am not sure 1.31 would solve your coax issue.


----------



## The Bogg

Has anyone used the D2 to change the horizontal offset of a video picture? Does it affect the resolution at all? My Sony Black Pearl has horizontal lens shift but man is it finicky and very fine adjustments move it more than I want. Spent a lot of frustrating time with it. Would've tried the Anthem but haven't unboxed it yet...need to dust the room again after the construction.


----------



## Ed Weinman

It may have been asked before, but...in viewing, sound to me is of upmost importance...I'd like to know what Blu-ray player(s) might do justice in combination with the D1. Specifically, will the upcoming Pioneer 05 be a good partner? (I don't think I can afford the Denon 3800.)


Thanks, in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/13700983
> 
> 
> It may have been asked before, but...in viewing, sound to me is of upmost importance...I'd like to know what Blu-ray player(s) might do justice in combination with the D1. Specifically, will the upcoming Pioneer 05 be a good partner? (I don't think I can afford the Denon 3800.)
> 
> 
> Thanks, in advance.



If you are really talking about a D1 (as opposed to a D2 or AVM-50), your options are limited to players that do a great job at multi-channel analog output. The quality of the audio you hear will be largely a function of the digital to analog output conversion stage of the player, and doing that right is not cheap.


Right now I suspect the Denon 3800 is your best bet as it not only has a "near exotic" analog output stage, but it also has internal decoding of both the Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA lossless audio formats.


Keep in mind that if you want the D1 to "process" that audio in any fashion, it will need to re-digitize the analog input, process it, and then convert it back to analog for output. If, on the other hand, you want to use Analog-Direct pass through in the D1, you will need a player that has competent speaker configuration management and bass steering for its multi-channel analog outputs. Even the Denon 3800 doesn't have a complete solution there (no subwoofer phase control for example), but it is probably about as close as you can find. Also note that the Denon has no ethernet port and thus can never be upgrade to Blu-Ray Player Profile 2.0 compatibility.


There are no details out yet on the upcoming Panasonic BD50, Pioneer 05FD, or (due this fall) Sony 500 series players so I can't really speak to their multi-channel analog output capabilities.


A better bet might be to spend the money to upgrade your D1 to a D2. I like the upcoming 80GB PS3 model (available in June) for use as a Blu-Ray player with the D2.


But the PS3 does not have multi-channel analog audio output, so it is not an option for use with the D1.

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13702447
> 
> 
> If you are really talking about a D1 (as opposed to a D2 or AVM-50), your options are limited to players that do a great job at multi-channel analog output. The quality of the audio you hear will be largely a function of the digital to analog output conversion stage of the player, and doing that right is not cheap.
> 
> 
> Right now I suspect the Denon 3800 is your best bet as it not only has a "near exotic" analog output stage, but it also has internal decoding of both the Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA lossless audio formats.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that if you want the D1 to "process" that audio in any fashion, it will need to re-digitize the analog input, process it, and then convert it back to analog for output. If, on the other hand, you want to use Analog-Direct pass through in the D1, you will need a player that has competent speaker configuration management and bass steering for its multi-channel analog outputs. Even the Denon 3800 doesn't have a complete solution there (no subwoofer phase control for example), but it is probably about as close as you can find. Also note that the Denon has no ethernet port and thus can never be upgrade to Blu-Ray Player Profile 2.0 compatibility.
> 
> 
> There are no details out yet on the upcoming Panasonic BD50, Pioneer 05FD, or (due this fall) Sony 500 series players so I can't really speak to their multi-channel analog output capabilities.
> 
> 
> A better bet might be to spend the money to upgrade your D1 to a D2. I like the upcoming 80GB PS3 model (available in June) for use as a Blu-Ray player with the D2.
> 
> 
> But the PS3 does not have multi-channel analog audio output, so it is not an option for use with the D1.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, again, thanks for your input. I realize that the D1 upgrade is the right thing to do. I have an old Pioneer 525 DVD player, the video and sound going into a iSCAN HD scaler, then the sound going into the D1 while the video goes, via HDMI. to my Samsung 6168.


But, with the D1 upconversion, I would still need a Blu-ray player that has excellent credentials in processing sound prior to it's arrival to the D1, right? Would it, then, be a matter of which device, the player or the D1, will configure and reproduce the sound in the best manor possible? (I hope this makes sense!)


----------



## netroamer

After experiencing various glitches with the D2 from the time of purchase through the various FW upgrades, the latest was losing the ability to save any FM/AM presets and not being able to shutoff the sub woofer when listening to the radio as a 2 channel output, I decided to bite the bullet and do a flash erase. I ran the erase program 6 times to clear the memory with no HDMI inputs/output attached. I loaded the 1.31 public release. All went well until I accessed the setup menu to find I had no on-screen menu (sound familiar). I then reloaded the 1.31 and the on-screen returned. After entering the setup information anew, I ran the beta ARC program and loaded the results. The system appears stable, and yes, I got back the FM/AM presets.


While the end result is positive, the road there is still pretty bumpy.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/13702605
> 
> 
> But, with the D1 upconversion, I would still need a Blu-ray player that has excellent credentials in processing sound prior to it's arrival to the D1, right? Would it, then, be a matter of which device, the player or the D1, will configure and reproduce the sound in the best manor possible? (I hope this makes sense!)



No, you need a Blu-Ray player that decodes and sends multichannel PCM over HDMI.


You really don't want to process your audio in the player, since you have a far better audio processor in the D1 - or in the D2, which opens the door to the ARC-1 room correction.


----------



## tarichar

Hi,


I just went thru the upgrade process to 1.31 in anticipation of my ARC which I have ordered.


My only issue after the upgrade is that I lost my onscreen menu display.


Any suggestions on how to fix?


thanks,


troy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/13702605
> 
> 
> Bob, again, thanks for your input. I realize that the D1 upgrade is the right thing to do. I have an old Pioneer 525 DVD player, the video and sound going into a iSCAN HD scaler, then the sound going into the D1 while the video goes, via HDMI. to my Samsung 6168.
> 
> 
> But, with the D1 upconversion, I would still need a Blu-ray player that has excellent credentials in processing sound prior to it's arrival to the D1, right? Would it, then, be a matter of which device, the player or the D1, will configure and reproduce the sound in the best manor possible? (I hope this makes sense!)



What you need is a player that decodes the various Blu-Ray audio tracks internally. The result goes to the D2 as high bandwidth, multi-channel, HDMI PCM (a digital audio signal). That means the analog audio portions of the player (audio DACs) are not used at all. The D2 does any processing necessary for speaker configuration and such, all in digital audio, and then converts the result to analog for output to your amps.


It's the same thing with video. Digital video comes off the disc and is sent to the D2 also as digital video over HDMI. The D2 does whatever processing is necessary and sends that as digital video to your display via HDMI. The display does the "conversion" to analog when it fires up the pixels. This means the video DACs in the player (and in the D2) are not used.


So with a PS3 (for example), digital audio and video would go to the D2 over HDMI. The D2 would process that and send analog audio out to your amps and digital video over HDMI to your display.


The trick here is finding a Blu-Ray player that decodes ALL the Blu-Ray formats to HDMI PCM and has no other significant gotchas for Blu-Ray playback. With the latest firmware update for the PS3, it looks to be the first Blu-Ray player that meets that.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/13702923
> 
> 
> After experiencing various glitches with the D2 from the time of purchase through the various FW upgrades, the latest was losing the ability to save any FM/AM presets and not being able to shutoff the sub woofer when listening to the radio as a 2 channel output, I decided to bite the bullet and do a flash erase. I ran the erase program 6 times to clear the memory with no HDMI inputs/output attached. I loaded the 1.31 public release. All went well until I accessed the setup menu to find I had no on-screen menu (sound familiar). I then reloaded the 1.31 and the on-screen returned. After entering the setup information anew, I ran the beta ARC program and loaded the results. The system appears stable, and yes, I got back the FM/AM presets.
> 
> 
> While the end result is positive, the road there is still pretty bumpy.



I'm in agreement - as nice as it is to field update the firmware (and that is VERY COOL), the serial protocol and process that Anthem uses feels very clunky as far as the user experience. I want to trust that when I see update complete it really means complete. And all the issues with the ARC results uploading as well.


I'm guessing that the current process was originally designed for occasional updates only.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tarichar* /forum/post/13703166
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I just went thru the upgrade process to 1.31 in anticipation of my ARC which I have ordered.
> 
> 
> My only issue after the upgrade is that I lost my onscreen menu display.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on how to fix?
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> 
> troy



There have been some reports here that re-loading V1.31 on top of itself can fix this. I'm not sure why that would be true.

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13703186
> 
> 
> What you need is a player that decodes the various Blu-Ray audio tracks internally. The result goes to the D2 as high bandwidth, multi-channel, HDMI PCM (a digital audio signal). That means the analog audio portions of the player (audio DACs) are not used at all. The D2 does any processing necessary for speaker configuration and such, all in digital audio, and then converts the result to analog for output to your amps.
> 
> 
> It's the same thing with video. Digital video comes off the disc and is sent to the D2 also as digital video over HDMI. The D2 does whatever processing is necessary and sends that as digital video to your display via HDMI. The display does the "conversion" to analog when it fires up the pixels. This means the video DACs in the player (and in the D2) are not used.
> 
> 
> So with a PS3 (for example), digital audio and video would go to the D2 over HDMI. The D2 would process that and send analog audio out to your amps and digital video over HDMI to your display.
> 
> 
> The trick here is finding a Blu-Ray player that decodes ALL the Blu-Ray formats to HDMI PCM and has no other significant gotchas for Blu-Ray playback. With the latest firmware update for the PS3, it looks to be the first Blu-Ray player that meets that.
> 
> --Bob



Again, Bob; thanks. I understand it better now.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13703209
> 
> 
> There have been some reports here that re-loading V1.31 on top of itself can fix this. I'm not sure why that would be true.
> 
> --Bob



It worked for me on two occasions. the first with 1.29k over 1.29k and, as I indicated in my recent post, the public release of 1.31 over 1.31.


John


----------



## lakerfanj

In trying to keep up with this thread I'm beginning to get worried that there are a high percentage of D2 units with technical issues. I want to update an old prepro and have been impressed with the feature set and reviews on the D2 but I am not one who has the interest (or time) to constantly tweak and adjust components in our theater.


Am I overestimating the problem based on the posts or is this a unit that needs constant attention? If it does need this kind of attention is there a prepro of similar acoustic and video quality that might be a good plug and play solution even if at a slightly higher price point?


I'm not coming into this with a particular brand loyalty or axe to grind, just trying to make an informed decision regarding a long overdue component upgrade. Also, given a large number of prior mechanical failings in the components in the past and significant downtime of the system, I need a piece that is reliable to safeguard domestic tranquility and reaffirm my wife's faith in the home theater.

Thanks.


----------



## scottshd

has anyone with arc-1 tried to reinstall the arc cd onto your computer? can anyone try it for me ? when I try it I get error messages and can;t get arc to work properly. tried installing it twice on three different computers with no luck. arc crashed on me twice and has never uploaded correctly even after two uploads. reloaded 1.31 three times. using keyspan usb to serial adapter with latest driver 3.7. also unplug mike cable when uploading.


----------



## Milt99

Ed,

While the PS3 may not be your cup of tea, I personally think that it is by far the best BR option.

It's rock solid and upgradeable and the upgrade process is also rock solid.

Plus it's comparatively inexpensive, it's here right now and a known quantity.

All of the recently released SA players either lack features or are released with bugs that may or may not get resolved in a reasonable time or without a considerable hassle.


----------



## Ed Weinman

Milt99, thanks.


Ed


----------



## DEHAAS

Firmware version 1.31c is up.


v1.31c


1. Fixed bug was sometimes loading wrong setup menu OSD code, causing setup menu to not appear.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lakerfanj* /forum/post/13706977
> 
> 
> In trying to keep up with this thread I'm beginning to get worried that there are a high percentage of D2 units with technical issues. I want to update an old prepro and have been impressed with the feature set and reviews on the D2 but I am not one who has the interest (or time) to constantly tweak and adjust components in our theater.
> 
> 
> Am I overestimating the problem based on the posts or is this a unit that needs constant attention? If it does need this kind of attention is there a prepro of similar acoustic and video quality that might be a good plug and play solution even if at a slightly higher price point?
> 
> 
> I'm not coming into this with a particular brand loyalty or axe to grind, just trying to make an informed decision regarding a long overdue component upgrade. Also, given a large number of prior mechanical failings in the components in the past and significant downtime of the system, I need a piece that is reliable to safeguard domestic tranquility and reaffirm my wife's faith in the home theater.
> 
> Thanks.



If you search a forum where people are disussing their problems and or looking for tweaks for their system and other people are responding and assisting these people you will percieve that there are a lot of technical issues. I'm sure there are a large number of people (including me) that have not had any problems and thus don't post about all the great experience they are having. Yes there are some who are expressing their positive experience but the forum is here to help those with issues so issues is what you see. This is a pretty complicated peice of gear and in most cases we are seeing that it is flexible enough that it can and will be fixed and upgraded. I would have no problem recommending the D2 for you. Like you I found the price and feature set to fit what I was looking for.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/13707974
> 
> 
> If you search a forum where people are disussing their problems and or looking for tweaks for their system and other people are responding and assisting these people you will percieve that there are a lot of technical issues. I'm sure there are a large number of people (including me) that have not had any problems and thus don't post about all the great experience they are having. Yes there are some who are expressing their positive experience but the forum is here to help those with issues so issues is what you see. This is a pretty complicated peice of gear and in most cases we are seeing that it is flexible enough that it can and will be fixed and upgraded. I would have no problem recommending the D2 for you. Like you I found the price and feature set to fit what I was looking for.



Just to add to that. The D2 is a complicated piece of equipment; therefore, you may run into a couple of glitches here and there. But overall, it's a good piece of equipment. Anyway, if you have any problems, I'm quite sure you can find the answer to your problem on this forum. After all, we have the D2 guru Bob. In all seriousness, you have to look at how the manufacture responds to problems. I must say that Anthem is top notch as far as customer support. They are pretty much on top of the issues and have a pretty quick turn around time. I don't mind a few glitches here and there as long as the manufacture stands behind there product and are willing to fix it. So far, that's exactly what Anthem has done.


----------



## lakerfanj

I do appreciate the purpose of the forum and it is encouraging to hear of the responsiveness of anthem in addressing issues that arise. What I am trying to determine is whether the D2 is more or less prone to technical issues than other pieces of comparable capability and since there does not seem to be a different thread that directly addresses this I was hoping that since the owners on this thread were so active I might be able to get some honest feedback on this issue.


----------



## shah993

I am not a techie and I think the D2 has been reliable and trouble free and I have been able to upgrade it with out problems.The way I look at it is that even a S class Mercedes or a BMW breaks down once in a while


----------



## Milt99

IMO, pre/pros are the most complicated piece of gear made.

Since the D2 has a built in video processor and now ARC, those add to the mix as well.

If you really need to get a feel for how the D2 stacks up against other pre/pros you'll need to look at the other threads for the respective pieces and pick your poison










In my experience, Anthem is far and away the most consistently responsive company regarding support issues.

Plus, we've got Dr. Bob.


----------



## vivekg

To add my 2 cents. I just bought the D2 and have had no problems (running with 1.30 right now). I use a PS3, verizon fios cable box (motorola), wii and a mac mini. There are lots of configuration options I haven't played with yet, lots of remote programming items I have to setup still, 1.31 update and arc calibration but it worked right out of the box for me.


And as pointed out the group was helpful in responding to some initial questions I did have on configuration.


Vivek


----------



## drhankz

I have owned a D2 since ALMOST day-one. I was a rather

early adopter. I sold my MC-12B Lexicon Pre-Pro to buy

the D2. A choice I have praised myself for - for over 2 years

now.










I do acknowledge that Anthem has the BEST tech support

of any CE vendor. All the FIXES and updates you read about

here are indications of two things - great support and the

REAL HDMI ISSUE.


Many Many Many CE vendors who brought HDMI products to

market early - implemented HDMI specifications in their own

way - since the standards where rather flexible at the time.

Also there was no central certification group to verify someone's

implementation as PROPER.


Anthem has been adjusting their FW for 2 years now as the

standards got more and more firm and there is now some

Independent testing available. Anthem has been trying to

FIX Other Vendors problems by adjusting the Anthem FW.


I don't know of any other CE Vendor that has been anywhere

near as responsive as Anthem. In my case - My HDMI Source

choices have had good implementations - therefore my needs

for updates has been extremely minimal.


I say THREE CHEERS for Anthem


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lakerfanj* /forum/post/13708579
> 
> 
> What I am trying to determine is whether the D2 is more or less prone to technical issues than other pieces of comparable capability and since there does not seem to be a different thread that directly addresses this I was hoping that since the owners on this thread were so active I might be able to get some honest feedback on this issue.



Perfectly valid question, but there are multiple threads in this forum on the various types of prepros out there and you'll have to enter each of them to investigate the technical issues that are raised. None of them are *perfect* for every owner. For instance, before I bought my D2 I read almost every entry in the Integra 9.8 thread. It's full of technical horror stories. Once I had determined that HDMI 1.3 wasn't all it's cooked up to be and weighed my options, I settled on the D2. Since I bought the D2 I've had one issue (crackling sound in the surround channels) that was fixed with a simple firmware update.


It's up to you to decide of course, but I'm sure you will find more owners who are totally satisfied with their D2 than not.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lakerfanj* /forum/post/13708579
> 
> 
> I do appreciate the purpose of the forum and it is encouraging to hear of the responsiveness of anthem in addressing issues that arise. What I am trying to determine is whether the D2 is more or less prone to technical issues than other pieces of comparable capability and since there does not seem to be a different thread that directly addresses this I was hoping that since the owners on this thread were so active I might be able to get some honest feedback on this issue.



The challenge in giving an accurate answer lies in the fact that the product category is relatively new.


While there are many standalone audio only prepros, and many video only scaler/processors, there are only a handful of comparable products that exist. Quite possibly you could count them on one hand.


Since this is a new product category, there isn't yet a lot of comparative information - very few people on the planet will have had extensive enough experience with ALL or MOST of the competition to be able to say how different products compare in actual use.


That said, I will say that, by far, the most common issue is HDMI incompatibilities with specific equipment. Anthem has put a lot of work into tweaking THEIR product so gear with marginal HDMI designs can work with it. Still, there is a lot of twiddling that has to be done to get things to work for some people.


I guess if you really want something "plug and play" - especially if you have a significant other who has low tolerance for problems - then the HDMI-enabled AV prepro/scaler product category might not be the safest leap to make.


While I've had my share of little glitches (many not the fault of the D2!), it has been far overshadowed by the sheer joy in being able to tweak audio and video quality to points farther than I ever thought possible in a home system.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lakerfanj* /forum/post/13708579
> 
> 
> I do appreciate the purpose of the forum and it is encouraging to hear of the responsiveness of anthem in addressing issues that arise. What I am trying to determine is whether the D2 is more or less prone to technical issues than other pieces of comparable capability and since there does not seem to be a different thread that directly addresses this I was hoping that since the owners on this thread were so active I might be able to get some honest feedback on this issue.



Due to the nature of this forum, and in particular the participation in this thread, you are getting a far more detailed look at how customer technical service actually works than for most products. In addition, D2 users, on the whole, are more willing to explore the limits of the product, and more likely to notice and pursue problems or gotchas, than users of many other home theater products.


I would say the D2 is not perfect, but it is far from being a problem-child.


I continue to recommend the D2 as one of the best home theater products out there. And Anthem's tech support if you DO run into a problem is top notch.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/13706998
> 
> 
> has anyone with arc-1 tried to reinstall the arc cd onto your computer? can anyone try it for me ? when I try it I get error messages and can;t get arc to work properly. tried installing it twice on three different computers with no luck. arc crashed on me twice and has never uploaded correctly even after two uploads. reloaded 1.31 three times. using keyspan usb to serial adapter with latest driver 3.7. also unplug mike cable when uploading.



Check which version of ARC is on your CD. The original batch of ARC CDs, bundled with new D2s early this year, is the V1.0 version. The current batch, now shipping in new D2s and the only version that ever shipped as upgrade kits for older D2s, is the V1.1 version (which is also the one you can download from the Anthem web site). The V1.1 version also requires the V1.31 D2 firmware (whereas V1.0 ARC goes with the V1.30 firmware).


The important thing for your problem is that the V1.1 version of ARC includes a cleanup phase in the Windows installer which removes the conflicting bits of a prior ARC install so that the re-install goes cleanly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DRHANKZ,

Any update yet on your experiments with the PS3 (V2.30) and D2 for standard DVD playback?


The "Secrets of Home Theater" tests were pretty damning, but they are also quite obviously outdated by now. I hope Kris and crew have a chance to redo them with the newer PS3 firmware.


Nevertheless, reports in the PS3 thread in the Blu-Ray player forum here indicate that scaling of standard DVDs took a nasty step backwards in the V2.20 PS3 firmware and apparently that is not corrected in V2.30.


On the other hand, it seems the basic de-interlacing is solid at this point -- which is critical since the PS3 can't be set to output HDMI 480i. So running HDMI 480p to the D2 may be the right answer for standard DVD playback. This would be a manual change each time you play a standard DVD, but so be it.


The problem is, I'm not at all sure the folks who are saying the PS3 produces perfect HDMI 480p output for standard DVD playback actually have any idea how to test that.


I'm also curious as to whether you have found it beneficial to turn on the standard DVD filters in the PS3 (e.g., frame and block noise reduction and mosquito noise reduction).


-------------------------------------


It is also apparently the case that the PS3 doesn't try to de-interlace 1080i Blu-Ray discs at this point. This is no problem since the D2 does 1080i to 1080p de-interlacing correctly, but it does mean you have to configure the PS3 to allow both 1080i/60 and 1080p/24 output to the D2 (along with 720p/60 for games and 480p/60 for standard DVDs) or I think you will have problems when playing a 1080i Blu-Ray disc (live concerts and such).

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13712183
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> On the other hand, it seems the basic de-interlacing is solid at this point -- which is critical since the PS3 can't be set to output HDMI 480i. So running HDMI 480p to the D2 may be the right answer for standard DVD playback. This would be a manual change each time you play a standard DVD, but so be it.



Bob -


I don't believe there is anything that has to be changed here. In the DVD playback menu, I have upscaling set to off. This will always produce 480P output from the PS3. There is nothing to change after that. What is it that you are referring to as far as a manual change?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13712183
> 
> 
> The problem is, I'm not at all sure the folks who are saying the PS3 produces perfect HDMI 480p output for standard DVD playback actually have any idea how to test that.



Can you give a rundown (or another rundown if you've done it before) on how to test this? I'd be happy to test it... I just don't know how, or know that I have the proper materials to do so.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13712183
> 
> 
> I'm also curious as to whether you have found it beneficial to turn on the standard DVD filters in the PS3 (e.g., frame and block noise reduction and mosquito noise reduction).



I've left these off, figuring the D2 would do a better job than the PS3. The idea being to send the D2 a signal with the least amount of processing already applied to it.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13712183
> 
> 
> It is also apparently the case that the PS3 doesn't try to de-interlace 1080i Blu-Ray discs at this point. This is no problem since the D2 does 1080i to 1080p de-interlacing correctly, but it does mean you have to configure the PS3 to allow both 1080i/60 and 1080p/24 output to the D2 (along with 720p/60 for games and 480p/60 for standard DVDs) or I think you will have problems when playing a 1080i Blu-Ray disc (live concerts and such).



I don't think this is a problem. The native format out of the PS3 and into the D2 would be the best signal path, so the default settings for the PS3 should be fine. On my setup, I have forced 24hz to be on on the PS3, but my understanding of that is it will only output 24hz if there is a 24hz signal on the BD to output. This shouldn't be an issue with 1080i/60 and 720P/60 materials.


So far, I have had no problem with PS3 games which output 720P (D2 shows 720P input) or 1080i concerts (D2 shows 1080i input).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13712183
> 
> 
> DRHANKZ,
> 
> Any update yet on your experiments with the PS3 (V2.30) and D2 for standard DVD playback?
> 
> 
> --Bob



I just got my 2nd PS3 Yesterday.


Today I installed the PS3 in my new Rack Chassis.


NOW - I'm finishing up the Crestron Programming

so that I can have IR control instead of that DUMB

Bluetooth.


I will install and test everything on Thursday.


I'll report on Friday.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tim,

Thanks for the info. I don't have my PS3 yet (waiting on the June re-issue of the 80GB unit), but reading the manual it sounded like you had to enable the video output formats you wished to allow (or trust to "automatic" to enable them for you). Thus I thought there might be a problem if people set things to force 1080p/24 and then stuck in a 1080i Blu-Ray disc.


As for testing de-interlacing (and other aspects of basic standard DVD playback) it can be a neat trick as most people have never seen pristine standard DVD playback and their eyes simply edit out the playback errors they've gotten used to.


A good start is to get the standard DVD test disc from HQV. This includes various de-interlacing stress tests. If the PS3 is set to produce 480p output, then of course it is doing the de-interlacing so playing these tests would be testing how well the PS3 does this. DRHANKZ gave a preliminary report that his trial of HQV on the PS3 ran without showing any problems. I don't know if he has revisited that.


For other aspects of standard DVD playback, the best thing to do is to go to the "Secrets of Home Theater" test site (just Google that) look for the "DVD Benchmark" link at the bottom of that page, and read over their 6 part tutorial on what causes screwups in standard DVD playback and what they look like. Be forewarned: Once you have learned to see such problems you can't STOP seeing them, and you will never be satisfied again with less than perfect standard DVD playback.


So for example, those tutorials will help you understand what to look for to see if your standard DVD player has the infamous Color Upsampling Error (CUE), which can arise even in 480i output. It will also give you an idea as to why Blacker than Black and Peak White data on the DVD is so important to preserve through the video chain to your display.


I use the Avia Pro standard DVD test discs -- the more expensive and elaborate version of the widely available, commercial Avia calibration DVD. But to truly test some of this stuff requires test equipment -- a light sensor and a digital video signal analyzer for example. This is the sort of stuff that Secrets of Home Theater uses in its benchmark tests, which is what makes them so valuable as a way to compare standard DVD playback performance from different players.


But just using Avia Pro and color gel filters, you can readily test for proper Blacker than Black, Peak White, CUE, Y/C delay, geometry (including pixel clipping along any of the 4 sides), motion adaptive de-interlacing, bogus Sharpness enhancement that can not be disabled, bogus "video enhancement" features such as Velocity Modulation that can not be disabled, banding due to non-linearities in the digital video output, and probably other stuff I've forgotten at the moment.


And the thing is, all of this stuff can go wrong even before the standard DVD imaging is scaled. I.e., these are tests of 480i and/or 480p playback. Scaling may introduce its own problems but if the original MPEG decoding and de-interlacing introduces artifacts, scaling will NOT eliminate them. Standard DVD viewing, just like SD-TV viewing, is all about not damaging the imaging, because damage once introduced can't not be removed (only filtered over which smears the imaging), and with low resolution content you can't afford to lose ANY of the content information.

--Bob


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13712715
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> Thanks for the info. I don't have my PS3 yet (waiting on the June re-issue of the 80GB unit), but reading the manual it sounded like you had to enable the video output formats you wished to allow (or trust to "automatic" to enable them for you). Thus I thought there might be a problem if people set things to force 1080p/24 and then stuck in a 1080i Blu-Ray disc.
> 
> 
> As for testing de-interlacing (and other aspects of basic standard DVD playback) it can be a neat trick as most people have never seen pristine standard DVD playback and their eyes simply edit out the playback errors they've gotten used to.
> 
> 
> A good start is to get the standard DVD test disc from HQV. This includes various de-interlacing stress tests. If the PS3 is set to produce 480p output, then of course it is doing the de-interlacing so playing these tests would be testing how well the PS3 does this. DRHANKZ gave a preliminary report that his trial of HQV on the PS3 ran without showing any problems. I don't know if he has revisited that.
> 
> 
> For other aspects of standard DVD playback, the best thing to do is to go to the "Secrets of Home Theater" test site (just Google that) look for the "DVD Benchmark" link at the bottom of that page, and read over their 6 part tutorial on what causes screwups in standard DVD playback and what they look like. Be forewarned: Once you have learned to see such problems you can't STOP seeing them, and you will never be satisfied again with less than perfect standard DVD playback.
> 
> 
> So for example, those tutorials will help you understand what to look for to see if your standard DVD player has the infamous Color Upsampling Error (CUE), which can arise even in 480i output. It will also give you an idea as to why Blacker than Black and Peak White data on the DVD is so important to preserve through the video chain to your display.
> 
> 
> I use the Avia Pro standard DVD test discs -- the more expensive and elaborate version of the widely available, commercial Avia calibration DVD. But to truly test some of this stuff requires test equipment -- a light sensor and a digital video signal analyzer for example. This is the sort of stuff that Secrets of Home Theater uses in its benchmark tests, which is what makes them so valuable as a way to compare standard DVD playback performance from different players.
> 
> 
> But just using Avia Pro and color gel filters, you can readily test for proper Blacker than Black, Peak White, CUE, Y/C delay, geometry (including pixel clipping along any of the 4 sides), motion adaptive de-interlacing, bogus Sharpness enhancement that can not be disabled, bogus "video enhancement" features such as Velocity Modulation that can not be disabled, banding due to non-linearities in the digital video output, and probably other stuff I've forgotten at the moment.
> 
> 
> And the thing is, all of this stuff can go wrong even before the standard DVD imaging is scaled. I.e., these are tests of 480i and/or 480p playback. Scaling may introduce its own problems but if the original MPEG decoding and de-interlacing introduces artifacts, scaling will NOT eliminate them. Standard DVD viewing, just like SD-TV viewing, is all about not damaging the imaging, because damage once introduced can't not be removed (only filtered over which smears the imaging), and with low resolution content you can't afford to lose ANY of the content information.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. I have printed this out and will do as much as I can tonight and report back.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13699930
> 
> 
> Has anyone used the D2 to change the horizontal offset of a video picture? Does it affect the resolution at all? My Sony Black Pearl has horizontal lens shift but man is it finicky and very fine adjustments move it more than I want. Spent a lot of frustrating time with it. Would've tried the Anthem but haven't unboxed it yet...need to dust the room again after the construction.



Sorry for reposting but has no-one used the picture offset function in the D2? Not even Bob who has probably tried every function in the D2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13713250
> 
> 
> Sorry for reposting but has no-one used the picture offset function in the D2? Not even Bob who has probably tried every function in the D2?



I tried it once way back when (V1.04 firmware), but didn't need it in my setup and so I haven't explored it.


Use it in conjunction with the pixel clipping test chart from a calibration DVD and you'll be able to see if you are losing pixels off either side when the shift happens (because they are being clipped or replaced by black vertical lines when the shifting is implemented). This will help you discover whether they are altering the horizontal sync in the video output or implementing the shift by inserting a thin black bar on one side or the other.


Keep in mind that there are only so many pixels across each line. So you can't just move pixels earlier or later within the line except by losing pixels off one end. If your display is set to produce no "overscan" as it should be, then you don't want to lose those pixels. Thus the shift mechanism built into your display may be the better way to go even as tricky as it is. Have you considered moving your screen instead? (grin!)


Report back when you see what happens and you may become our horizontal shift expert!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've now read the PS3 online manual (which apparently you CAN'T get in a downloadable PDF format), the *NEW* PS3 as a Blu-Ray player FAQ thread in its entirety, the first post of the main PS3 as a Blu-Ray player discussion thread, and all the way back to page 499 from the end of that thread.


The pain! The pain!


Has anyone found a PS3 discussion thread for home theater enthusiasts with a higher signal to noise ratio?


(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## drhankz

*UPDATE for BOB*










I just got the PS3 installed in the Rack


See Pictures.


Now back to Crestron Programming.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13713364
> 
> 
> Has anyone found a PS3 discussion thread for home theater enthusiasts with a higher signal to noise ratio?



I feel your pain, Bob. Unfortunately, the noise level on most (all?) PS3 discussions is quite high. It's very frustrating to try to pull anything useful out of it. The 2.30 Firmware update is a perfect example. I have not found any place with the level of information you're looking for.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13713380
> 
> 
> I just got the PS3 installed in the Rack
> 
> 
> See Pictures.



For the second time today. Holy crap!







I love that rack! R R R R R. I want. I want!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13713788
> 
> 
> For the second time today. Holy crap!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love that rack! R R R R R. I want. I want!



Just Powering it up now.


Been Crestron Programming until my fingers fall off.


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

just got my arc today! but I have no speakers and no amp










upgrading


----------



## drhankz

Maybe I'm being overly Optimistic - but I put in Fly Boys

Blu-Ray with DTS-HD Audio Track to verify DTS lossless

decoding - that does seem to work just fine.


But I'm thinking the PQ looks sharper than my Pioneer

Blu-Ray Player. I need to do some serious testing with

Calibration Discs - I have them all.


I need to wait for Significant other to get home to get

the Crestron IR to Bluetooth working. It is a two person

required Job. I can't be in front of the rack and behind

it in the equipment room at the same time.


I should have that working by tonight before I go to sleep.


Testing will have to wait until tomorrow.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13713788
> 
> 
> For the second time today. Holy crap!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love that rack! R R R R R. I want. I want!



NOTICE - I left plenty of open rack space ABOVE

and BELOW the D2. I also have TONS of fans

inside the rack moving air.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13713380
> 
> *UPDATE for BOB*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just got the PS3 installed in the Rack
> 
> 
> See Pictures.
> 
> 
> Now back to Crestron Programming.




drhankz


Could you describe each piece of equipment ?

I am very interested in knowing what each item in your rack

is and what it does


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/13714748
> 
> 
> drhankz
> 
> 
> Could you describe each piece of equipment ?
> 
> I am very interested in knowing what each item in your rack
> 
> is and what it does



Check Back Tomorrow










Too Tired tonight - I just got the Crestron and IR

control of the PS3 working. I'm DONE.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13714492
> 
> 
> Maybe I'm being overly Optimistic - but I put in Fly Boys
> 
> Blu-Ray with DTS-HD Audio Track to verify DTS lossless
> 
> decoding - that does seem to work just fine.
> 
> 
> But I'm thinking the PQ looks sharper than my Pioneer
> 
> Blu-Ray Player. I need to do some serious testing with
> 
> Calibration Discs - I have them all.
> 
> 
> I need to wait for Significant other to get home to get
> 
> the Crestron IR to Bluetooth working. It is a two person
> 
> required Job. I can't be in front of the rack and behind
> 
> it in the equipment room at the same time.
> 
> 
> I should have that working by tonight before I go to sleep.
> 
> 
> Testing will have to wait until tomorrow.



Dr.,

I just purchased and hooked up my PS3 today. I was curious, is the new software that decodes DTS-MA and DolbyHD already loaded on the PS3 or did you dowmload it? What are your settings on the PS3 and D2 to get lossless audio?

Is there a way to tell which software is loaded on the PS3 like you can do on the D2 by hitting the select button?

BTW that's some rack you have there! Does your wife share your love for a/v gear, or just roll her eyes and sigh like mine? Do you prescribe her any meds that lets you buy that kind of fantastic set-up? There must be some advantages to having a M.D. and a DEA#.

Thanks,

Tom


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13715004
> 
> 
> Dr.,
> 
> I just purchased and hooked up my PS3 today. I was curious, is the new software that decodes DTS-MA and DolbyHD already loaded on the PS3 or did you dowmload it? What are your settings on the PS3 and D2 to get lossless audio?
> 
> Is there a way to tell which software is loaded on the PS3 like you can do on the D2 by hitting the select button?
> 
> BTW that's some rack you have there! Does your wife share your love for a/v gear, or just roll her eyes and sigh like mine? Do you prescribe her any meds that lets you buy that kind of fantastic set-up? There must be some advantages to having a M.D. and a DEA#.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



I'm sure there is a way to tell what version is loaded.


I highly DOUBT version 2.3 is loaded. Mine

had some OLDER version. I never bother to

check what version it has - I just go to the Update

page and it EITHER says CURRENT software or

New Software Ready for Download.


I had to download 2.3 today in my NEW PS3.


You want the PS3 set to PCM via HDMI. That is

all you need. The D2 is HAPPY with PCM.


The PS3 Display key shows DTS-HD playing - if

you have a Blu-Ray movie with that soundtrack.


The D2 will show 6 CH - 48Khz Input.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13715166
> 
> 
> I'm sure there is a way to tell what version is loaded.
> 
> 
> I highly DOUBT version 2.3 is loaded. Mine
> 
> had some OLDER version. I never bother to
> 
> check what version it has - I just go to the Update
> 
> page and it EITHER says CURRENT software or
> 
> New Software Ready for Download.
> 
> 
> I had to download 2.3 today in my NEW PS3.
> 
> 
> You want the PS3 set to PCM via HDMI. That is
> 
> all you need. The D2 is HAPPY with PCM.
> 
> 
> The PS3 Display key shows DTS-HD playing - if
> 
> you have a Blu-Ray movie with that soundtrack.
> 
> 
> The D2 will show 6 CH - 48Khz Input.



Thanks,

Those were the settings I used and that is the reading the D2 is showing. I'm watching Blade Runner BR that has Dolby HD, so it seems to read that OK. I will update my firmware tomorow. I am not hooked up to web via ethernet so I assume I will have to go to PS3 site and download to my computer and transfer to the PS3. I'll work on that in the morning.

I'm waiting for my IR/BT adapter from Schmart stuff so I will be able to use the PS3 display key from the comfort of my couch. I'll hook up the hand control tommorow and see what the PS3 display shows - I'm too tired now.

Thanks again,

Tom


----------



## Milt99

To those of you wondering about the PS3 as Blu-ray player and as a CE device in general, Home Theater Magazine has this review posted.

Personally, I trust this guy to get it right:
http://hometheatermag.com/playstation/508sonyps3/


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13715844
> 
> 
> To those of you wondering about the PS3 as Blu-ray player and as a CE device in general, Home Theater Magazine has this review posted.
> 
> Personally, I trust this guy to get it right:
> http://hometheatermag.com/playstation/508sonyps3/



For many technologies there is the concept of a "reference platform". The reference platform is an implementation of the technology which, purely by dint of its wide acceptance, sets the "standard" for the technology, particularly in areas of the technology which are subject to interpretation by the implementors.


It is often the case that the reference platform is neither user friendly nor elegant nor even complete in secondary characteristics. But the reference platform SETS THE STANDARD that all other implementations of that particular technology are judged against.


Anyone else trying to implement that technology is obliged to do it the same way the reference platform does it, or to face the daunting task of convincing the marketplace that doing it differently is better.


For Blu-ray, the PS3 is the reference platform.


----------------------------


I have a deep seated antipathy to Sony dating back to their high handed introduction of "root kit" copy protection in CDs some years ago: The height of arrogance from a company that really needed to be taken down several dozen pegs.


Seriously.


Nothing that Microsoft has been accused of has even come close.


But Sony is a big company, and as much as I detest what they did back then, there's really no denying that they've got THIS right.


-------------------


There will come a point, as always, where the reference platform is supplanted by particular, focused implementations. Generally this happens when the technology becomes "mature" in the marketplace. Blu-Ray has been around for a while but it aint mature yet by a long shot.


For now, I think Sony has it nailed and everyone else is playing catch up.


-----------------------


But the PS3 is *ONLY* the reference platform with regard to Blu-Ray playback. In every other aspect it is just another market player. And that leaves an opening for a true, universal player that is as good as the PS3 for Blu-Ray and is better in everything else -- user interface being a biggie here.


Obviously lots of people have gotten into Blu-Ray prior to this, but for MY money, now is the FIRST time where buying a Blu-Ray player makes sense. And the PS3 is top of the list. But this is still an early-adopter technology, and things may change dramatically within the next year.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13715547
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Those were the settings I used and that is the reading the D2 is showing. I'm watching Blade Runner BR that has Dolby HD, so it seems to read that OK. I will update my firmware tomorow. I am not hooked up to web via ethernet so I assume I will have to go to PS3 site and download to my computer and transfer to the PS3. I'll work on that in the morning.
> 
> I'm waiting for my IR/BT adapter from Schmart stuff so I will be able to use the PS3 display key from the comfort of my couch. I'll hook up the hand control tommorow and see what the PS3 display shows - I'm too tired now.
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Tom



Or take your PS3 and any handy small TV to the nearest Internet Cafe to download the firmware.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13713328
> 
> 
> I tried it once way back when (V1.04 firmware), but didn't need it in my setup and so I haven't explored it.
> 
> 
> Use it in conjunction with the pixel clipping test chart from a calibration DVD and you'll be able to see if you are losing pixels off either side when the shift happens (because they are being clipped or replaced by black vertical lines when the shifting is implemented). This will help you discover whether they are altering the horizontal sync in the video output or implementing the shift by inserting a thin black bar on one side or the other.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that there are only so many pixels across each line. So you can't just move pixels earlier or later within the line except by losing pixels off one end. If your display is set to produce no "overscan" as it should be, then you don't want to lose those pixels. Thus the shift mechanism built into your display may be the better way to go even as tricky as it is. Have you considered moving your screen instead? (grin!)
> 
> 
> Report back when you see what happens and you may become our horizontal shift expert!
> 
> --Bob



I had suspected that there might be some pixel loss. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13715547
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Those were the settings I used and that is the reading the D2 is showing. I'm watching Blade Runner BR that has Dolby HD, so it seems to read that OK. I will update my firmware tomorow. I am not hooked up to web via ethernet so I assume I will have to go to PS3 site and download to my computer and transfer to the PS3. I'll work on that in the morning.
> 
> I'm waiting for my IR/BT adapter from Schmart stuff so I will be able to use the PS3 display key from the comfort of my couch. I'll hook up the hand control tommorow and see what the PS3 display shows - I'm too tired now.
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Tom



Today you really need to work on hooking up the PS3 to

the Internet. Remember the PS3 has WiFi as well as wired

Ethernet. It needs to be ONLINE. You are disabling 1/2 of

the Functionality.


----------



## izzihd

I forgot to turn off both the "Center EQ" and the "Room Resonance Filter" prior to installing ARC and uploading my settings. After the ARC upload, both are still turned on.


Question - Any problem here? Would I get better results turning both off (figuring ARC duplicates and improves their functions) or do I need to turn them off AND rerun the ARC sweeps to get best/most accurate results from ARC?


Many thanks for the help.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13716914
> 
> 
> Today you really need to work on hooking up the PS3 to
> 
> the Internet. Remember the PS3 has WiFi as well as wired
> 
> Ethernet. It needs to be ONLINE. You are disabling 1/2 of
> 
> the Functionality.



I was able to load 2.30 today. I tried connecting it to my laptop via ethernet connection, but the PS3 couldn't detect the connection. I then took the PS3 downstairs where I have my modem, and connected it directly to it via ethernet and it worked. I don't know why it worked this way and not with the laptop, but I was pleased I could upgrade the PS3 to 2.30.

Since I'm not a gamer and got the PS3 for BR why would I need to have it connected to the web? And more importantly, how would I connect it to the internet? I'm open to the idea of having it connected but my modem is in the basement and my a/v room on the main floor.

Its a qwest dsl modem that sends a good wi-fi signal (802.11?)to the main floor- I'm able to connect to the web on my laptop w/o a problem. What sort of device would I need to connect the PS3, and my dish vip622, to the internet? Another modem, or router, or what?

I would like to connect to the internet if there is a reasonably inexpensive solution, but I'm a computer moron and have no idea what it would take, and when I've asked the geeks at BB they didn't seem to understand what I was trying to do, or I didn't understand their answers.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanls,

Tom


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13717983
> 
> 
> Since I'm not a gamer and got the PS3 for BR why would I need to have it connected to the web? And more importantly, how would I connect it to the internet? I'm open to the idea of having it connected but my modem is in the basement and my a/v room on the main floor.
> 
> Its a qwest dsl modem that sends a good wi-fi signal (802.11?)to the main floor- I'm able to connect to the web on my laptop w/o a problem. What sort of device would I need to connect the PS3, and my dish vip622, to the internet? Another modem, or router, or what?
> 
> I would like to connect to the internet if there is a reasonably inexpensive solution, but I'm a computer moron and have no idea what it would take, and when I've asked the geeks at BB they didn't seem to understand what I was trying to do, or I didn't understand their answers.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanls,
> 
> Tom



For the PS3 - you need NOTHING to connect it to the

Internet if your dsl Modem already puts out a WiFi

Signal. You just need to TELL the PS3 to connect using

WiFi instead of wired ethernet. There are a couple of

places things need to be configured in the PS3 menu.


To connect the Dish box is more complex. You will need

a Wireless Bridge device.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13717983
> 
> 
> Since I'm not a gamer and got the PS3 for BR why would I need to have it connected to the web?
> 
> Tom



I forgot to answer this question.


The PS3 is Profile 2.0 of the Blu-Ray Spec. Profile 2.0 Players

NEED a live Internet connection to utilize the 2.0 features.


I know some say the 2.0 features are NOT NEEDED - but that

is why I bought my NEW PS3. I have one in the game room as

a Game Machine - but now with FW 2..3 - the PS3 is the best

Blu-Ray player available today. Therefore I bought my 2nd PS3

for a PLAYER function only in the theater - but if you do not connect

it to the Internet as a PLAYER - you just DISABLED the 2.0 Features.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *izzihd* /forum/post/13717887
> 
> 
> I forgot to turn off both the "Center EQ" and the "Room Resonance Filter" prior to installing ARC and uploading my settings. After the ARC upload, both are still turned on.
> 
> 
> Question - Any problem here? Would I get better results turning both off (figuring ARC duplicates and improves their functions) or do I need to turn them off AND rerun the ARC sweeps to get best/most accurate results from ARC?
> 
> 
> Many thanks for the help.



I believe for each source input that you have room eq set to 'on' that the settings for center eq and room resonance filter are not used.


----------



## izzihd

Thanks Mr Fitz. Would have both filters on when I ran the ARC sweep effect the suggested corrections?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13716438
> 
> 
> For many technologies there is the concept of a "reference platform". The reference platform is an implementation of the technology which, purely by dint of its wide acceptance, sets the "standard" for the technology, particularly in areas of the technology which are subject to interpretation by the implementors.
> 
> 
> It is often the case that the reference platform is neither user friendly nor elegant nor even complete in secondary characteristics. But the reference platform SETS THE STANDARD that all other implementations of that particular technology are judged against.
> 
> 
> Anyone else trying to implement that technology is obliged to do it the same way the reference platform does it, or to face the daunting task of convincing the marketplace that doing it differently is better.
> 
> 
> For Blu-ray, the PS3 is the reference platform.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------
> 
> 
> I have a deep seated antipathy to Sony dating back to their high handed introduction of "root kit" copy protection in CDs some years ago: The height of arrogance from a company that really needed to be taken down several dozen pegs.
> 
> 
> Seriously.
> 
> 
> Nothing that Microsoft has been accused of has even come close.
> 
> 
> But Sony is a big company, and as much as I detest what they did back then, there's really no denying that they've got THIS right.
> 
> 
> -------------------
> 
> 
> There will come a point, as always, where the reference platform is supplanted by particular, focused implementations. Generally this happens when the technology becomes "mature" in the marketplace. Blu-Ray has been around for a while but it aint mature yet by a long shot.
> 
> 
> For now, I think Sony has it nailed and everyone else is playing catch up.
> 
> 
> -----------------------
> 
> 
> But the PS3 is *ONLY* the reference platform with regard to Blu-Ray playback. In every other aspect it is just another market player. And that leaves an opening for a true, universal player that is as good as the PS3 for Blu-Ray and is better in everything else -- user interface being a biggie here.
> 
> 
> Obviously lots of people have gotten into Blu-Ray prior to this, but for MY money, now is the FIRST time where buying a Blu-Ray player makes sense. And the PS3 is top of the list. But this is still an early-adopter technology, and things may change dramatically within the next year.
> 
> --Bob



Bob

Very well stated. I am sure many others feel exactly the same way about Sony and with Blu-Ray.

Possibly OPPO will be that defining reference universal player


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *izzihd* /forum/post/13718534
> 
> 
> Thanks Mr Fitz. Would have both filters on when I ran the ARC sweep effect the suggested corrections?



If it does it is a bug. So far we have no reason to believe having either of those filters set alters either the ARC measurement and setup process or the resulting audio after ARC results are uploaded (for sources where Room EQ = ON is set).


However, if you run any sources with Room EQ = OFF, then those two filters are supposed to still operate.


Note that ARC modifies the Setup settings for Speaker Calibration level and cross overs when ARC results are uploaded. The idea is that switching between ARC on or off after uploading ARC results will give the closest possible match. But these Setup settings that an ARC upload alters will ALSO affect whether your Center EQ or Room Resonance Filter settings are still correct for sources where Room EQ = OFF is set. So you may need to revisit the settings for those two filters OR return your Setup settings to their pre-ARC values (which is *NOT SUPPOSED TO* alter ARC processed audio for sources with Room EQ = ON since the settings ARC itself uses are stored separately and can't be altered except by uploading a new set of ARC results).


So far, I don't believe we've had anyone post here after doing any significant experiments optimizing Setup settings for Room EQ = OFF for some sources while still using ARC results and Room EQ = ON for other sources. So take that last paragraph as "unconfirmed" at the moment.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13717983
> 
> 
> I was able to load 2.30 today. I tried connecting it to my laptop via ethernet connection, but the PS3 couldn't detect the connection. I then took the PS3 downstairs where I have my modem, and connected it directly to it via ethernet and it worked. I don't know why it worked this way and not with the laptop, but I was pleased I could upgrade the PS3 to 2.30.
> 
> Since I'm not a gamer and got the PS3 for BR why would I need to have it connected to the web? And more importantly, how would I connect it to the internet? I'm open to the idea of having it connected but my modem is in the basement and my a/v room on the main floor.
> 
> Its a qwest dsl modem that sends a good wi-fi signal (802.11?)to the main floor- I'm able to connect to the web on my laptop w/o a problem. What sort of device would I need to connect the PS3, and my dish vip622, to the internet? Another modem, or router, or what?
> 
> I would like to connect to the internet if there is a reasonably inexpensive solution, but I'm a computer moron and have no idea what it would take, and when I've asked the geeks at BB they didn't seem to understand what I was trying to do, or I didn't understand their answers.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanls,
> 
> Tom



To connect to the internet THROUGH your laptop you would need to make some setting changes in your laptop to tell it it is OK for it to share its internet connection with some other device wired to its ethernet port. This is not all that tough, but as you discovered, it is easier just to plug the PS3's ethernet directly into your internet modem.


If you already have wireless networking in your house, just take your laptop down to your viewing room temporarily and see if you get a good wireless connection down there as well. If so, then you are good to go with the PS3 as well since the PS3 models they are selling today already have built in wireless networking (wi-fi). Depending on what sort of security you have set up on your wireless modem, connecting the PS3 could be trivially automatic, or could require you to enter a password in the PS3 for network connection, or could require you to enter the PS3's "MAC address" into your wireless modem to allow a new device (the PS3) to access the wifi in that modem.


Read the online manual at the Sony site for the PS3:

http://manuals.playstation.net/docum...ent/index.html 


Your Dish set top box probably has only an ethernet port (i.e., no built in wifi). So you will need a separate gadget that connects to your wifi network and has an ethernet port that you can use to connect your Dish box. Just set up the separate gadget near the dish box and run the ethernet wire between them.


In the case of an Apple Airport network for Mac computers you can use an "Airport Express" gadget to do this and set it up using Apple's standard Airport Utility on the Mac. There are third party gadgets that work similarly on non Apple wifi networks, but you will need to set up the gadget using whatever utility comes with it.

--Bob


----------



## izzihd

Just confirmed with Anthem that Bob is correct about the room resonance filter and center channel EQ:


"So far we have no reason to believe having either of those filters set alters either the ARC measurement and setup process or the resulting audio after ARC results are uploaded (for sources where Room EQ = ON is set).


However, if you run any sources with Room EQ = OFF, then those two filters are supposed to still operate."


Thanks Bob.


----------



## TREVLAN

dumb me...

Hi Fellas, OK so I just installed 1.31 on my AVM50 however I didn't realise I had to save mt settings some where before I refreshed my factory defaults. STUPID STUPID. So does this I need to tell the Anthem again what imput is what and so on?

And after the install is there anything special I need to do. Like turn the antherm on off before rehooking up the HDMI cables?


Thanks , and overall what a painless install beside my own stupididty.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here is Kris Deering's updated review of the PS3 as a standard DVD player:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/dvd-p...s3-fw-2.1.html 


Apparently this was done with PS3 firmware V2.1 installed. It is still pretty damning. He does acknowledge some important improvements over last summer's test such as the ability to correctly pass Blacker than Black imaging data now.


He also acknowledges that the "core" performance for SD-DVD playback is fine. These are the important things I mentioned in my earlier post that affect the basic decoding of the YCbCr 4:2:0, 480i, MPEG2 data coming off the disc -- things like CUE. The PS3 did not show any such errors, which is a good thing.


The PS3 is evidently not a "flag-based" de-interlacing player, which means its ability to correctly switch to "film mode" de-interlacing is entirely dependent upon its ability to detect the field repeat cadence in the video stream. And Kris's tests are saying that in stressful imaging conditions the PS3 simply isn't handling this correctly -- i.e., it stays stuck in "video mode" de-interlacing. All the best de-interlacing SD-DVD players don't depend on flags (which are often improperly recorded on the discs), but it does put the burden on the player to correctly analyze the incoming video stream so that it never misses the film-mode cadence when it is present.


Simpler video may very well have its film-mode cadence detected properly and thus be de-interlaced properly by the PS3. This would appear to be the case or we would have seen far more complaints by now. But occasional glitches for "bad edits" on disc or when the video imaging gets highly detailed are still glitches.


I don't believe Secrets have done a test of the later V2.20 or V2.30 PS3 firmware. Also, their tests just cover core decoding and de-interlacing. Up-scaling issues and audio performance, for example, are not tested.


NOTE: The D2's de-interlacing, as with ALL external de-interlacer scalers, is also based on analyzing the video stream (not on flags) since only a player can see the flags, and the D2 does its de-interlacing correctly. But since the PS3 can't put out HDMI 480i, there's no way to use that for SD-DVD playback from the PS3. "Flags" were a way to make cheap de-interlacers back in the days when the video processing power to analyze the video stream was too expensive. Improper flags on many discs have ALWAYS produced problems for flag-based de-interlacers, and thus ignoring the flags is much the better way to go if you have the processing power to analyze the video stream independent of the flags. All external de-interlacer scalers, and all TVs asked to do de-interlacing, have to do this since they can't see the flags. Different TVs and external scalers do this better or worse depending upon their design and how much processing power you have paid for.


By the way, this is one of the last reviews Kris did for "Secrets of Home Theater" as he moved on to a different job in March.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

Rob,


Kevin ordered my ARC yesterday, time to show those Los Angeles Le*icon kids, that it only take one to get it correct!


Michael


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/13721421
> 
> 
> dumb me...
> 
> Hi Fellas, OK so I just installed 1.31 on my AVM50 however I didn't realise I had to save mt settings some where before I refreshed my factory defaults. STUPID STUPID. So does this I need to tell the Anthem again what imput is what and so on?
> 
> And after the install is there anything special I need to do. Like turn the antherm on off before rehooking up the HDMI cables?
> 
> 
> Thanks , and overall what a painless install beside my own stupididty.



Do the power cycle described in the V1.31 install instructions that appear on your Windows PC when you run the installer application.


If you EVER saved your Setup settings to Saved User Settings or Saved Installer Settings, then these settings will have survived the V1.31 install and you can now Reload User Settings or Installer Settings to get them back.


Even if they are not your most recent settings, they may be close -- which will save you some time. Any more recent Setup menu settings you did not Save to User or Installer settings (they are just 2 different memories for holding these settings) will be lost and you will have to re-enter them manually.


Since you didn't save you Video Source Adjust menu settings to the PC as described in the instructions you will have lost them and will now have to re-enter any of those, for each source input, manually. The V1.31 update erases the saved version of those from your Saved User or Saved Installler settings since the format of those changed with the new software.

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

Hi Bob

I never saved the settings, I'm starting from scratch..lol

One thing I am having an issue with is the save new setting part, It asked for a Password to save them but my old one is not working, What would the factory default be, I'm reading the manual but can't find what I'm looking for.


EDIT: I am not getting any video or audio. But I can see the OSD from the Anthem??


EDIT 2: I'm getting the audio video to work.


P.S. Thank you Anthem my crackling from DTS-MA and TRUEHD is GONE. and my system sounds great. So far all is good, I'm off to get my wife I'll play again when I get back.


Thx for the help guys


----------



## panners

I recently upgraded to 1.31 on my D2, and now I'm having a problem when I turn on my Xbox-360 and D2. I get now sound untill I press and hold down the setup botton on the D2 to go to the set up menu. When its on the setup menu then the aduio turns on. Really weird!


What is up with that?


Shane


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13721495
> 
> 
> Do the power cycle described in the V1.31 install instructions that appear on your Windows PC when you run the installer application.
> 
> 
> If you EVER saved your Setup settings to Saved User Settings or Saved Installer Settings, then these settings will have survived the V1.31 install and you can now Reload User Settings or Installer Settings to get them back.
> 
> 
> Even if they are not your most recent settings, they may be close -- which will save you some time. Any more recent Setup menu settings you did not Save to User or Installer settings (they are just 2 different memories for holding these settings) will be lost and you will have to re-enter them manually.
> 
> 
> Since you didn't save you Video Source Adjust menu settings to the PC as described in the instructions you will have lost them and will now have to re-enter any of those, for each source input, manually. The V1.31 update erases the saved version of those from your Saved User or Saved Installler settings since the format of those changed with the new software.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


If the D2 asks you for a password to save settings, etc; and you have lost or forgotten it. Is their a way to reset the password without knowing the old password?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/13721854
> 
> 
> I recently upgraded to 1.31 on my D2, and now I'm having a problem when I turn on my Xbox-360 and D2. I get now sound untill I press and hold down the setup botton on the D2 to go to the set up menu. When its on the setup menu then the aduio turns on. Really weird!
> 
> 
> What is up with that?
> 
> 
> Shane



What cables are you using to pass audio and video to the D2 from the Xbox?


In Setup / Source Setup, check your settings for HDMI Repeater and Auto Dig.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/13722019
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> If the D2 asks you for a password to save settings, etc; and you have lost or forgotten it. Is their a way to reset the password without knowing the old password?



There probably is, but I don't know it. The procedure in Section 3.14 of the manual for clearing the password still requires you to know the current password.


Give Anthem tech support a call.

--Bob


----------



## panners




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13722711
> 
> 
> What cables are you using to pass audio and video to the D2 from the Xbox?
> 
> 
> In Setup / Source Setup, check your settings for HDMI Repeater and Auto Dig.
> 
> --Bob




Hi Bob,


I'm running HDMI. And the settings are repeater on, auto dig is on also.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/13722828
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I'm running HDMI. And the settings are repeater on, auto dig is on also.



OK, turn both of those off and see if things work better for you.


I suspect that the Xbox is not getting a good HDCP handshake from your TV (through the Anthem) *OR* it is getting audio capabilities from your TV (again through the Anthem) that tell it not to send audio. Turning Repeater off means the Anthem will pretend to be the TV to the Xbox which makes it easier for the Xbox to set up the connection. The Anthem then handles the rest of the job to your TV. When you go into the Setup menu the TV is not in the signal path and the Xbox may stop muting the audio.


Auto Dig on complicates things a little as well. Unless you really need it for some source combo, it should be left off for all sources.

--Bob


----------



## Bruceko

I got My Arc installed and run for the first time.

Since there is very minimal documentation I have a question.

Does the ARC software set speaker levels or do you still need to calirate it in the D2 setup menu?


----------



## Milt99

Bruceko,

Aren't you the guy who got his ARC from Definitive about a month ago?

What took you so long to install it









No, you don't have to touch any of the settings in the speaker related setup menus. ARC takes care of it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/13724274
> 
> 
> I got My Arc installed and run for the first time.
> 
> Since there is very minimal documentation I have a question.
> 
> Does the ARC software set speaker levels or do you still need to calirate it in the D2 setup menu?



ARC adjusts speaker levels for its own use. In addition, an upload of ARC results modifies the Speaker Calibration settings in the Setup menu so that the speaker levels in there more closely match what ARC itself would use. This makes things transition more naturally if you turn Room EQ OFF for any source device. The same thing happens with crossover settings determined by ARC.


You must manually set the speaker distances. You must also manually adjust subwoofer phase and polarity (either in the D2's setup menu or in the controls of the sub itself). And of course you must tell ARC what speakers you have. Subwoofer phase and polarity adjustments can be made before OR after measuring, calculating, and uploading ARC results. ARC processing assumes the subwoofer polarity and phase are correct, but since ARC listens to only one speaker at a time, any adjustments you make to those subwoofer settings doesn't alter the validity of ARCs measurements or calculations.


ARC sets speaker levels and crossovers and adjusts hidden filtering parameters that you can't see in the Setup menu. You have the option (in ARC "advanced" mode) of overriding the crossovers that ARC selects. When you do that, and "re-calculate", ARC will adjust its filtering parameters according to the crossovers you have specified. All of this must be done within the ARC application. Changes you make in the Setup menu of the D2 itself will only affect audio for sources where you have turned Room EQ OFF.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13722908
> 
> 
> Auto Dig on complicates things a little as well. Unless you really need it for some source combo, it should be left off for all sources.
> 
> --Bob



When would you really need Auto Dig on?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13724815
> 
> 
> And of course you must tell ARC what speakers you have.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Could you please explain what you mean by you must tell ARC what speakers you have? I don't ever recall telling ARC the type of speakers I have. Also, I have not seen a place to indicate what type of speakers someone has.


----------



## earwit

I'm having great audio and video results with the D2.


Audio mainly using a Apple TV as a music Server.

Took me a long time to realize that cd's burned

lossless on to a harddisk sound bettter then the

orginal CD via the D2. Not to mention access to

100's of CD's in seconds.


Regular DVD Pioneer 79avi at 480I,

Sacd. DVD-audio use 79avi.....


Blu-Ray PS3 2.30 firmware, Fast Loading and now handles

all audio formats

What Advantage will the new PS3 coming out in June

have over the previous PS3 units, other then perhaps

a larger 80GB harddisk??


Bob


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13725200
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Could you please explain what you mean by you must tell ARC what speakers you have? I don't ever recall telling ARC the type of speakers I have. Also, I have not seen a place to indicate what type of speakers someone has.



You simply speak into the microphone..."I have Martin Logan's"










Seriously, I think he means the number of speakers you have so that if you have a 5.1 system you don't ask ARC to measure rears, only surrounds.


----------



## Milt99

Jeez Bruceko, sorry for the bogus information but at least I learned something.

I guess I find it odd that ARC does not set speaker distance but I guess I should have known that given that it only takes frequency sweeps.


I am going to re-run ARC today and try a few things out.


One thing I did notice after loading 1.31, restoring my settings via Live Editor did not work. Reloading them via the D2 internal memory did work except that it changed my speaker config to 6.1 instead of 7.2.

I was playing a movie and the D2 would not apply DPLIIx but DD-EX only.

It was after checking my setup that I discovered the 6.1 thing.


A question,

Has anyone had to turn up the NOISE LEVEL setting for test tones in order for ARC to complete the sweeps?

I had to turn mine up by 5db before ARC would validate the first speaker and move through the rest.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13726115
> 
> 
> You simply speak into the microphone..."I have Martin Logan's"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, I think he means the number of speakers you have so that if you have a 5.1 system you don't ask ARC to measure rears, only surrounds.



I knew I was going to get a response like that from someone. Thanks uppacreek, you didn't let me down.







I was thinking the same thing about 5.1 vs 7.1. But, I didn't know if Bob may have found some secret about the ARC that we didn't know about.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13725178
> 
> 
> When would you really need Auto Dig on?



Auto Dig is useful in 2 cases that I know of:


1) Some crappy analog+digital Cable set top boxes only put out digital audio if you are tuned to a digital cable channel. If you are tuned to an analog cable channel they only put out analog audio. So wire both to the D2 and set up both on the same Source Setup in the D2 with Auto Dig ON. Then, when the digital audio feed is live the D2 will use that, but when there is no digital audio it will automatically switch to the analog audio feed.


2) Some people have too many source devices and want to share a single Source Setup with more than one device. This is less of a problem now with the "overlayed" inputs (e.g., DVD2 vs. DVD1) that appeared a few software releases ago. But if you have one device with digital audio and one with analog audio you can share a Source Setup by hooking them both up to the same Source Setup with Auto Dig ON. To hear the analog device you would have to make sure there is no digital audio coming from the digital device. For some digital devices it would be sufficient to pause or mute them. For others you might have to power off the digital source device for the D2 to see silence on the digital input and do the switch to the analog device. Now you will only be able to set up video from one of those two sources in the single Source Setup, so one of the two would have to be an audio only device for a shared setup like this to make sense.


Turning on Auto Dig in a Source Setup means the D2 has to listen for audio on the digital input before it can decide whether to switch to the analog input. If you use the feature of the D2 that lets you switch from your current source to the next "live" source in the list of all your source, this will slow down such skipping since the D2 has to listen for digital audio and then, if not present, for analog audio. Also, if the digital input is HDMI this can complicate the HDMI handshake a bit. Again, unless you have a good reason to use Auto Dig in a Source Setup, it is best to just set it to OFF for each Source Setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13725200
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Could you please explain what you mean by you must tell ARC what speakers you have? I don't ever recall telling ARC the type of speakers I have. Also, I have not seen a place to indicate what type of speakers someone has.



You have to tell ARC whether you have sides or rears or a center or a subwoofer wired up. It doesn't try to figure that out on its own.


For example, I tell ARC not to use my center speaker in the Music configuration.


You don't have to tell ARC how good your speakers are. It figures that out on its own. Of course it can't really tell the difference between crappy speakers and Richard Syndrome.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *earwit* /forum/post/13725546
> 
> 
> What Advantage will the new PS3 coming out in June
> 
> have over the previous PS3 units, other then perhaps
> 
> a larger 80GB harddisk??



People are assuming -- it has not yet been confirmed -- that the re-introduced 80GB PS3 in June will use the cooler running processor and motherboard setup of the current 40GB model. This can be a big factor in whether the PS3 has to crank up its fan.


Sony has announced that the re-introduced 80GB version will maintain the feature set of the prior 80GB model (discontinued a couple months ago) -- i.e., it adds SACD playback, PS2 game emulation, and additional USB ports to the feature set of the current 40GB model.


Sony has also announced that they will change the one bundled controller to the "Dual Shock" controller which includes built-in vibration for those that like that. The bundled game also changes to Metal Gear 4 or something like that.


There is still no bundled HDMI cable or Blu-Ray playback remote (you use the game controller for Blu-Ray playback out of the box).


There is a rumor that some limited number of these new units will be sold in a gun-metal gray body instead of the standard PS3 body.


There is a virtually confirmed rumor that the "summer" firmware upgrade for the PS3 will add 1080i/60 to 1080p/60 de-interlacing for 1080i Blu-Ray discs. Of course this is not important to D2 owners since the D2 does this perfectly already. That firmware upgrade is also supposed to add "in game chat". The firmware upgrade (V2.40?) may coincide with the release of this 80GB model or follow on shortly afterwards. The firmware will also apply to older PS3 models as well of course. I've not spotted any useful rumors regarding improved SD-DVD playback upgrades in upcoming firmware.

--Bob


----------



## EAnderson

I have question that been eating at me for a while. I use the D2 with a Theta Dreadnaught amp that's triggered to turn on when I power on the D2. However, when I power off the D2 the amp stays on.

So, I've had to program my Universal remote to do a shut down macro for my HT that includes powering down the D2, wait 13 seconds, power on D2, (amp now turns off) power off D2. I'm not sure if there's a way to do all of this without turning the D2 on and off, as I don't always use this remote.


It seems the D2 produces a constant trigger output signal from power on till it is off, rather than a trigger pulse at power on then a trigger pulse at power off.


I may be missing something here so any suggestions are welcome. I'm kinda lazy so it would be nice to have the amp turn on / off with the D2 without me having to get up to turn it off manually.


Thanks, Eric


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Eric, the 12 volt triggers from the D2 are indeed continuous.


Often, trigger controllable devices like amps are configurable for a continuous trigger vs. a pulse trigger (usually a simple switch near the trigger input). Check your amp for this. Continuous is the more common method since with a pulse trigger you may lose track of whether the power has most recently been toggled on or off whereas a continuous trigger is always certain to command power on or off as appropriate.


It is pretty simple to make an electronic circuit that will turn a continuous trigger into a pair of pulses (one that happens when the continuous trigger is turned on and the other when it is eventually turned off). I imagine somebody out there has made a gadget that custom installers can use to implement this when trying to solve problems such as yours, but it's not something I've ever tried to find. Do a search at the typical home theater gadget places such as Gefen and Monoprice.

--Bob


----------



## EAnderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13732060
> 
> 
> Eric, the 12 volt triggers from the D2 are indeed continuous.
> 
> 
> Often, trigger controllable devices like amps are configurable for a continuous trigger vs. a pulse trigger (usually a simple switch near the trigger input). Check your amp for this. Continuous is the more common method since with a pulse trigger you may lose track of whether the power has most recently been toggled on or off whereas a continuous trigger is always certain to command power on or off as appropriate.
> 
> 
> It is pretty simple to make an electronic circuit that will turn a continuous trigger into a pair of pulses (one that happens when the continuous trigger is turned on and the other when it is eventually turned off). I imagine somebody out there has made a gadget that custom installers can use to implement this when trying to solve problems such as yours, but it's not something I've ever tried to find. Do a search at the typical home theater gadget places such as Gefen and Monoprice.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I'll give this a try (checking the back of the amp). If no luck then I might try calling Theta on Monday. If still no luck, then maybe I'll try a gadget place. I was hoping for a really easy fix or a adjustment.


Anyway, thanks for your advice Bob


And Thanks again, Eric


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13716914
> 
> 
> Today you really need to work on hooking up the PS3 to
> 
> the Internet. Remember the PS3 has WiFi as well as wired
> 
> Ethernet. It needs to be ONLINE. You are disabling 1/2 of
> 
> the Functionality.



OK. I have the PS3 hooked up to the internet via wi-fi. The hook-up was a little painful for me. Not being particularly computer literate, it took a phone call to my dsl provider to find out what my wep key number is. I don't have any idea what a wep key is, but apparently Sony needed to know what mine's # is. Its times like that I wish I had a 14 y/o kid that knew computers...

Its every other waking hour that I'm thankful I don't.

So please explain to me what benefits are now available to me.

Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13732581
> 
> 
> OK. I have the PS3 hooked up to the internet via wi-fi. The hook-up was a little painful for me. Not being particularly computer literate, it took a phone call to my dsl provider to find out what my wep key number is. I don't have any idea what a wep key is, but apparently Sony needed to know what mine's # is. Its times like that I wish I had a 14 y/o kid that knew computers...
> 
> Its every other waking hour that I'm thankful I don't.
> 
> So please explain to me what benefits are now available to me.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



If you had a 14 year old kid he or she would explain that a wifi network is the electronic equivalent of shouting what you are doing to your neighbors, and that WEP (or more effectively WPA) is an encryption key that means they can't easily tune in on what you are doing on the network. Or even if they are not that nosy, a WEP (or WPA) key means they can't easily piggy-back on your wireless network and use it to access the internet services that you are paying for instead of paying for their own internet account -- which slows down your own internet access even if you don't mind them sharing the services you are paying for.


To use WEP or WPA encryption, your wireless base station and each device accessing your network must all be told the same encryption password.


TECHNICAL NOTE: WEP encryption is not very secure. The newer WPA encryption is much more secure. WPA also comes in WPA2 form -- a distinction you seldom need to worry about. Just remember that if ALL the devices on your wireless network support WPA or WPA2, then it is better to use that for security than WEP.


Other things you can do to protect your wireless network are to make it a "closed" network and to limit it by computer MAC address. Wireless networks normally broadcast their presence and their network name so any computer within range can know they are there to connect to (assuming you know the proper WEP or WPA password if that is set). A "closed" network doesn't do that, so for a computer to connect to it the computer must be told not only the encryption password but ALSO the name of the network itself, since the network won't show up on a scan.


Each device trying to use the network has a hardware identifier -- its "MAC address". One of the things you can do to really secure your wireless network is to configure the wireless base station to ONLY allow connections from a limited set of MAC addresses. This means any other device or computer, even if it knows the network name and encryption password, won't be allowed to connect. That means if you want to allow a new device to access your wireless network you need to look in its menus to learn its particular MAC address and then tell your wireless base station to add that MAC address to its list of approved devices that can connect to the network.


-----------------------------------------


Once you are on the network, the 14 y/o kid would then proceed to describe to you all of the wonderful things your PS3 will now let you purchase from the Sony on-line store.


This is when you stop listening to that kid.


What you primarily want from the network is firmware upgrades for your PS3. Eventually there will be on-line content that you may find interesting to download associated with particular Blu-Ray movies you are viewing.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

What you primarily want from the network is firmware upgrades for your PS3. Eventually there will be on-line content that you may find interesting to download associated with particular Blu-Ray movies you are viewing.

--Bob[/quote]


Since I'm using the PS3 for blu-ray playback only, and I know and trust my neighbors, the security issues don't concern me. It is nice to know that I can upgrade without having to disconnect the PS3 again. That feature alone is worth the hassle I encountered setting up the wi-fi connection.

Thanks,

Tom


P.S.- I can't even figure out how to put your quote in the nice shaded block. I'm probably not going to be able to play any online games. More importantly, I have no interest in online gaming. I do appreciate your help on figuring out how to do things with my D2 and associated equipment that I do want to do.

Right now I am very pleased with my D2 and the movie and music experience it provides.

"Thanks" to all of you on this thread, especially Bob, for helping me tweak my D2. "Thanks" to Anthem for making such a fine product that can be tweaked so completely. The ARC-1 is one of the best system tweaks I've ever used!

Tom


----------



## benleeys

Successfully updated my D2 firmware from 1.29j to 1.31c this afternoon. No hassles at all.


Sat down to enjoy a movie and found that the Source Setup had been messed up a bit, eg. Scaler Input had switched from Component to HDMI for every input source. All Mode Presets had been set to PLIIx Movie. Checked all the speakers configurations and found everything ok there. I can only surmise that the reloading of user's settings was somehow only partly successful.


During the movie, also noticed that Status Display showed no Video Input even though the Panel showed 480i input. Since I had already noticed this anomaly in 1.29j, I was on the lookout for it. About an hour into the movie, I checked again and, to my relief, found the Video Input showing correctly this time. Some blockage clearing by itself somewhere?










Other than the above, everything seems fine so far. Next job is to instal the ARC-1.


----------



## panners




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13722908
> 
> 
> OK, turn both of those off and see if things work better for you.
> 
> 
> I suspect that the Xbox is not getting a good HDCP handshake from your TV (through the Anthem) *OR* it is getting audio capabilities from your TV (again through the Anthem) that tell it not to send audio. Turning Repeater off means the Anthem will pretend to be the TV to the Xbox which makes it easier for the Xbox to set up the connection. The Anthem then handles the rest of the job to your TV. When you go into the Setup menu the TV is not in the signal path and the Xbox may stop muting the audio.
> 
> 
> Auto Dig on complicates things a little as well. Unless you really need it for some source combo, it should be left off for all sources.
> 
> --Bob




Hi Bob,


I did both of these and it is still doing the same thing. No Audio untill I goto the D2 settings menu.


----------



## rhrhodes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13734391
> 
> 
> What you primarily want from the network is firmware upgrades for your PS3. Eventually there will be on-line content that you may find interesting to download associated with particular Blu-Ray movies you are viewing.
> 
> --Bob



Since I'm using the PS3 for blu-ray playback only, and I know and trust my neighbors, the security issues don't concern me. It is nice to know that I can upgrade without having to disconnect the PS3 again. That feature alone is worth the hassle I encountered setting up the wi-fi connection.

Thanks,

Tom


P.S.- I can't even figure out how to put your quote in the nice shaded block. I'm probably not going to be able to play any online games. More importantly, I have no interest in online gaming. I do appreciate your help on figuring out how to do things with my D2 and associated equipment that I do want to do.

Right now I am very pleased with my D2 and the movie and music experience it provides.

"Thanks" to all of you on this thread, especially Bob, for helping me tweak my D2. "Thanks" to Anthem for making such a fine product that can be tweaked so completely. The ARC-1 is one of the best system tweaks I've ever used!

Tom[/quote]




This might be mostly for computer savvy users, but by far the biggest advantage of having a PS3 networked, is streaming of video, photos, and music from your home computer.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13734391
> 
> 
> P.S.- I can't even figure out how to put your quote in the nice shaded block.



It is magic TOM - you click on the *QUOTE* Button.


AVS does the rest


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/13735200
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I did both of these and it is still doing the same thing. No Audio untill I goto the D2 settings menu.



Well I'm stumped then. You'll need to give Anthem tech support a call.


Is there anyone else here who is using an XBOX via HDMI with the V1.31 D2 software? Any issues getting audio to play normally from it?

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13736208
> 
> 
> Well I'm stumped then. You'll need to give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> 
> Is there anyone else here who is using an XBOX via HDMI with the V1.31 D2 software? Any issues getting audio to play normally from it?
> 
> --Bob



I connected a PS3 with HDMI thursday and had and still have issues getting the sound to work. When I enter the setup menu and highlight bluray the sound switches on then. I am using all 4 DVD options with Oppo,Yamaha, PS3 and the Sony 777es. The video switches but not always the sound.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/13737000
> 
> 
> I connected a PS3 with HDMI thursday and had and still have issues getting the sound to work. When I enter the setup menu and highlight bluray the sound switches on then. I am using all 4 DVD options with Oppo,Yamaha, PS3 and the Sony 777es. The video switches but not always the sound.



Bizarre! Have you had any contact with Anthem tech support on this yet? Are you running the V1.31 D2 software?


I wonder if this is related to the fix they put into the V1.31c test software to get the Setup menu to appear on screen properly? Perhaps the bug they fixed is in the source selection itself?

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13737038
> 
> 
> Bizarre! Have you had any contact with Anthem tech support on this yet? Are you running the V1.31 D2 software?
> 
> 
> I wonder if this is related to the fix they put into the V1.31c test software to get the Setup menu to appear on screen properly? Perhaps the bug they fixed is in the source selection itself?
> 
> --Bob



I am running 1.31 for about the past month but I do not believe it is the c version. I have not contacted them yet, 2 days of yard work in the desert. I am going to try again tonight or tomorrow and write down what it does before I email nick. My Arc kit should be here next week so I want to have everything squared away before I use it.


Dick


----------



## bgrounds

How are you pisitioning the mic? Are you putting it close to where your head/ears would be or actually leaning it agains the back of your chair/couch where your head/ears would be?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/13737869
> 
> 
> How are you pisitioning the mic? Are you putting it close to where your head/ears would be or actually leaning it agains the back of your chair/couch where your head/ears would be?



Try to get the height as close as possible to seated ear height for each position. The various positions (at least 5) should be separated by at least a foot from each other. Select positions symmetrically either side of the dead center first position if possible. Point the mic straight up. Avoid positions which have the mic close to any reflective surface such as a wall or the high back of a chair or sofa. Do not stand near the mic during measurements as you too are reflective. It is better to have the mic set up away from the actual listening position than right up against a reflective surface. For normal sofa heights it is OK to position the mic stand on the sofa (remove cushions if necessary to get the height right) as long as it is above the height of the sofa back so that it is not against that surface. Have the room configured as closely as possible to how you use it during normal listening -- e.g. doors and curtains opened/closed. Even a closet or equipment room open door will effect the bass response of the room.

--Bob


----------



## panners




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/13737000
> 
> 
> I connected a PS3 with HDMI thursday and had and still have issues getting the sound to work. When I enter the setup menu and highlight bluray the sound switches on then. I am using all 4 DVD options with Oppo,Yamaha, PS3 and the Sony 777es. The video switches but not always the sound.




Sounds like you are having the exact problem I'm having. But mine is with my Xbox-360. My PS3 Works great.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/13738303
> 
> 
> Sounds like you are having the exact problem I'm having. But mine is with my Xbox-360. My PS3 Works great.



Sounds to me like there is something else entirely going on here than typical HDMI handshake problems -- something such as a bug which is causing the wrong Source Setup definition to be used.


While waiting for Anthem tech support to respond, I suggest you go through your Source Setup settings for each device carefully looking for things that might not have transferred properly as part of the V1.31 firmware upgrade.


In particular, make sure each overlayed Source Setup (e.g., DVD2, DVD3) that you are NOT actually using is "Disabled" in its first line.


This is a weird one!

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13738291
> 
> 
> Try to get the height as close as possible to seated ear height for each position. The various positions (at least 5) should be separated by at least a foot from each other. Select positions symmetrically either side of the dead center first position if possible. Point the mic straight up. Avoid positions which have the mic close to any reflective surface such as a wall or the high back of a chair or sofa. Do not stand near the mic during measurements as you too are reflective. It is better to have the mic set up away from the actual listening position than right up against a reflective surface. For normal sofa heights it is OK to position the mic stand on the sofa (remove cushions if necessary to get the height right) as long as it is above the height of the sofa back so that it is not against that surface. Have the room configured as closely as possible to how you use it during normal listening -- e.g. doors and curtains opened/closed. Even a closet or equipment room open door will effect the bass response of the room.
> 
> --Bob



Would it be helpful to minimize chair reflections by placing a pillow in the chair/seating location you are measuring with the mic, to better simulate the accoustics with a person sitting in that spot? This might sound like overkill, but it appears that small things can make a difference in the measurements, and some of our bodies are not very small! Maybe pillows should be placed in all of the seating locations? I have read that sound engineers taking measurements in preparing for live concerts have to factor in the accoustical effect of the audience. Of course most of us have small numbers of people in our HT/audio rooms, but relatively speaking four people in a small room might have a similar accoustical affect as a large number of people in a concert hall. At any rate, one large "body size" bed pillow in the mic measurement area chair seems like it could be helpful to minimize chair reflections for that measurement location. Thoughts?


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13737038
> 
> 
> Bizarre! Have you had any contact with Anthem tech support on this yet? Are you running the V1.31 D2 software?
> 
> 
> I wonder if this is related to the fix they put into the V1.31c test software to get the Setup menu to appear on screen properly? Perhaps the bug they fixed is in the source selection itself?
> 
> --Bob



I am using 1.31c with a PS3 via HDMI with no problems.


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13736208
> 
> 
> Well I'm stumped then. You'll need to give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> 
> Is there anyone else here who is using an XBOX via HDMI with the V1.31 D2 software? Any issues getting audio to play normally from it?
> 
> --Bob



I have the Black Xbox360 Elite and using HDMI for audio and video..


When I first turn on the xbox, I get picture and sound, but when the xbox menu pops up, I loose the sound..


The Fix:


I have to goto a different input on the D2, then BAck to the xbox input.. NOw the sound is back..



Was over at my bud's house the other night, and he also is using the elite xbox with a yamaha 1800 HDMi receiver.. and has audio issues with xbox aswell.. He as to go into his setup menu and and change the surround mode to get sound...



Very starnge..



This has been happing for the last several Firmwares on the D2... come to think of it, it has ALWAYS happened..



Anyway, good to know that a Yamaha Reciver has issues with xbox aswell..


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/13739691
> 
> 
> I have the Black Xbox360 Elite and using HDMI for audio and video..
> 
> 
> When I first turn on the xbox, I get picture and sound, but when the xbox menu pops up, I loose the sound..
> 
> 
> The Fix:
> 
> 
> I have to goto a different input on the D2, then BAck to the xbox input.. NOw the sound is back..
> 
> 
> ...



This looks like your xbox is renegotiating the hdmi handshake. I get that now and then when I switch too fast with my comcast box between an HD channel 1080i with hdcp to a SD channel 480i with no hdcp.


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/13739758
> 
> 
> This looks like your xbox is renegotiating the hdmi handshake. I get that now and then when I switch too fast with my comcast box between an HD channel 1080i with hdcp to a SD channel 480i with no hdcp.




That is what I thought aslo...










Just very starnge that it works with sound on the boot screen of the xbox, but when the main dashboard comes up I loose sound...


----------



## Ian_Currie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/13739691
> 
> 
> I have the Black Xbox360 Elite and using HDMI for audio and video..
> 
> 
> When I first turn on the xbox, I get picture and sound, but when the xbox menu pops up, I loose the sound..
> 
> 
> The Fix:
> 
> 
> I have to goto a different input on the D2, then BAck to the xbox input.. NOw the sound is back..
> 
> 
> 
> Was over at my bud's house the other night, and he also is using the elite xbox with a yamaha 1800 HDMi receiver.. and has audio issues with xbox aswell.. He as to go into his setup menu and and change the surround mode to get sound...
> 
> 
> 
> Very starnge..
> 
> 
> 
> This has been happing for the last several Firmwares on the D2... come to think of it, it has ALWAYS happened..
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, good to know that a Yamaha Reciver has issues with xbox aswell..




I have the same issues with my Elite 360 and the D2 - drives me nuts - everytime I start to play Rock Band... grrrr. I wrote Anthem about it and they seemed surprised.


Anyhow, I now have the new Denon AVP and it handles this fine, so it CAN be done.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/13739691
> 
> 
> I have the Black Xbox360 Elite and using HDMI for audio and video..
> 
> 
> When I first turn on the xbox, I get picture and sound, but when the xbox menu pops up, I loose the sound..
> 
> 
> The Fix:
> 
> 
> I have to goto a different input on the D2, then BAck to the xbox input.. NOw the sound is back..
> 
> 
> 
> Was over at my bud's house the other night, and he also is using the elite xbox with a yamaha 1800 HDMi receiver.. and has audio issues with xbox aswell.. He as to go into his setup menu and and change the surround mode to get sound...
> 
> 
> 
> Very starnge..
> 
> 
> 
> This has been happing for the last several Firmwares on the D2... come to think of it, it has ALWAYS happened..
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, good to know that a Yamaha Reciver has issues with xbox aswell..



I've been using the component video and digital audio outs on my 360 Elite into my D2, so I haven't checked out the HDMI issues. I've got an HD-RPTV without HDMI connections, so no need to try HDMI yet for me. At any rate, component looks great on my setup.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/13738647
> 
> 
> Would it be helpful to minimize chair reflections by placing a pillow in the chair/seating location you are measuring with the mic, to better simulate the accoustics with a person sitting in that spot? This might sound like overkill, but it appears that small things can make a difference in the measurements, and some of our bodies are not very small! Maybe pillows should be placed in all of the seating locations? I have read that sound engineers taking measurements in preparing for live concerts have to factor in the accoustical effect of the audience. Of course most of us have small numbers of people in our HT/audio rooms, but relatively speaking four people in a small room might have a similar accoustical affect as a large number of people in a concert hall. At any rate, one large "body size" bed pillow in the mic measurement area chair seems like it could be helpful to minimize chair reflections for that measurement location. Thoughts?



I suspect that is overkill, but it's tough to know.


You need to make sure the "volume" of the room -- the number of cubic feet -- is the same since that alters bass response in significant ways. E.g., opening a typical closet door may add a whole new bass peak or dip around some specific frequency. So open or close doors the way you would have them for normal listening.


Stuff that alters room reflections in significant ways such as curtains (opened or closed)/rugs/wall hangings should be positioned as for normal listening. The important locations for stuff like that -- locations where the presence or absence of the sound deadening stuff will most alter response so you want to make it as similar as possible to your normal listening setup -- are right behind the speakers and halfway between the speaker and the listening position along each reflective surface (i.e., wall) since those are the direct reflection points for the sound from that speaker.


You point the mic up so that direct reflections into it come from a distance (the ceiling) and it is not favoring the location of any one speaker, and thus the sound it is picking up is less directional. Similarly, you don't want surfaces like walls or the back of the sofa at mic height or above right near the mic again because you want the sound it picks up to be as omnidirectional as possible -- not blocked or reflected by that surface. Raise the mic a bit or change its location so that it is not right at one of those.


You should be standing away from the mic, but even as little as 3 feet is plenty. Be sure the mic is not right near anything that might resonate (buzz) during the sweep tones. And don't stand so as to block any speaker. I like to use a wireless mouse so I can step away from the computer (which in my case is on a coffee table between the center speaker and the listening position) and still click the application buttons.


But setting up the room with "crash test dummies" or the like probably won't alter what the mic hears enough to matter. It wouldn't alter the reflections or room volume that much.


At least that would be my guess.


Remember that ARC is handling gross room effects for you, so don't get too worried about whether things are "perfect". The things that ARC tries to correct are significant enough that the presence of crash test dummies is probably not relevant. The suggestions above should be sufficient to let ARC do its job.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For those of you having HDMI audio problems, particularly ones that are resolved by switching away from that source and back (thus forcing a new HDMI handshake), it bears repeating that many HDMI problems can be resolved by upgrading your HDMI cables. The HDMI communication protocol includes high frequency and low frequency stuff. Most people are familiar with the "sparklies" that result from poor high frequency connections (bit drop outs in video) and know to try new cables if they see that, but the low frequency stuff can fail separately and just confound the setup of the connection itself.


Make sure the HDMI plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into their sockets and that the weight of the cable or whatever is not stressing or pulling that plug in any direction. It only takes a little looseness in the socket to make the HDMI connection flakey. A new HDMI cable may work better simply because it has a better mechanical fit in the socket.

--Bob


----------



## nikkos

Hi All. I'm encountering a problem with my year old AVM50 that I can't figure out. I'm hoping that it is something that is just being overlooked. The situation: I have a new Dish Network VIP722 receiver as one of my sources. OCCASIONALLY when changing channels I heard a medium level POP in the left front speaker. Since I had not upgraded the software in over a year and at the encouragement of both Anthem and the selling dealer I loaded 1.31. I immediately noticed a problem. When listening to ANY source and adjusting either the bass or treble front panel controls the audio "chops" in time with how fast I rotate the knob. NOT horrible but enough to be very distracting. Adjustments from the remote do the same thing but just not as fast since you can only go so fast with the remote adjustments. When using the tone controls with a silent signal such as between songs, NO problem can be noticed. It actually seems like it chops the audio when it increments steps. Desperate measures: I reinstalled the default factory settings. SAME THING! I really expected it to go away. I then put back in the 1.31 update. No change. Does anyone else have a similar difficulty? I'd REALLY appreciate it if someone out there would do the same test and let me know if it distorts the sound at ALL when either tone control is adjusted. What truly puzzles me is that it didn't go away when I went back to factory if the anomaly wasn't there yesterday. ODD. If anyone can shed some light or suggestions on this I really would appreciate your assistance. Notes: I used a laptop with a serial port and not a usb/serial converter. I took static precautions. After going back to factory default the ONLY change made was to enable triggers so that my amps would come on. I'm hoping that a member has a "Bright Idea" for me. Thanks! P.S. A VERY special thanks to Bob Pariseau for his insightful suggestions.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nikkos,

I sent you a PM. In brief, and for other readers here, check the "Muting" setting in Setup / Source Setup / (device) for each source (device) where you are hearing this Pop. See Section 3.6 of the Manual.


Also turn off the Auto Dig setting in Setup / Source Setup / (device) for each device.


Also verify that you are using the normal audio output connections from your Anthem -- i.e., the connections on the back of the Anthem in the block labeled Main Audio Out as opposed to other audio outputs such as Zone 2 or VCR.


-----------------------


In your last PM to me you stated you were hearing this popping even when adjusting Treble for the built-in AM/FM tuner. This would suggest a hardware problem in your Anthem, but check the stuff above first. If that doesn't provide a fix you may need to give Anthem tech support a call.

--Bob


----------



## nikkos

Hi Bob, I was afraid and still am that it is a hardware problem. I'd hate to have to sent this off for weeks. I'm using the balanced outputs to my amps. They have never changed. But things are going downhill FAST. I've spent the past NINETY MINUTES just trying to get the onscreen setup menu to display on my flatscreen. It was there earlier. Not now. I am getting a great picture from the Dish Network receiver. I CAN use the front panel display to set it up, but it is just the fact that my AVM50 seems to be in a whirlpool of problems. It CAN be very complicated, at least for me and frustrating to say the least. I am nowhere near any dealer so it is all in my hands. I'm almost to the point of selling the sound system and going to EARPHONES. ( Can you tell it has been a long day? ) Hopefully Anthem will have some time tomorrow to get this back on the right path. There TRULY should be a "setup tree" that shows a guy exactly how to get his system up and running by following yes/no answers. I've been in electronics all my life and heavy into computers since 1978 and this beast has created the most frustration. However, it IS a REAL GEM when it is working properly. Oh well.......


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nikkos* /forum/post/13742560
> 
> 
> Hi Bob, I was afraid and still am that it is a hardware problem. I'd hate to have to sent this off for weeks. I'm using the balanced outputs to my amps. They have never changed. But things are going downhill FAST. I've spent the past NINETY MINUTES just trying to get the onscreen setup menu to display on my flatscreen. It was there earlier. Not now. I am getting a great picture from the Dish Network receiver. I CAN use the front panel display to set it up, but it is just the fact that my AVM50 seems to be in a whirlpool of problems. It CAN be very complicated, at least for me and frustrating to say the least. I am nowhere near any dealer so it is all in my hands. I'm almost to the point of selling the sound system and going to EARPHONES. ( Can you tell it has been a long day? ) Hopefully Anthem will have some time tomorrow to get this back on the right path. There TRULY should be a "setup tree" that shows a guy exactly how to get his system up and running by following yes/no answers. I've been in electronics all my life and heavy into computers since 1978 and this beast has created the most frustration. However, it IS a REAL GEM when it is working properly. Oh well.......



I had the same problem with my D2. The onscreen display menu very rarely appeared on my TV screen. Sometimes it would display, and it was all good. However, most of the time, it didn't display. When it did display, it became very flickery and would eventually just disappear. I contacted Anthem Tech Suuport, and they told me to send it back because it sounded like a hardware problem. I didn't at first because I figure I would just use the front panel. However, I started having an issue with the audio dropping out when I switched sources. So, I decided that it would be best to send it back which I did. I sent my D2 back on 4/14/08, and it reached Anthem's factory on 04/23/08. Hopefully, I will get it back within the next couple of weeks.


----------



## EAnderson

Well, today I almost bit the bullet and purchased the 40gb PS3. However, the guy at the local Best Buy told me that it was'nt backwards compatable with the PS 1 or the PS2 games. I was also under the impression that SACD was also supported but was told otherwise, bummer. So, like Bob I guess I'll wait till June for the 80 gb unit, although I was told a 120 gb unit would be available by Christmas, hence my want for a Blu-ray player today. Again, I'd like to see SACD support today although I think it and DVD-audio may be already dead.

I'm really eager to mate my D2 with a competent blu-ray player soon.


----------



## panners




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/13739691
> 
> 
> I have the Black Xbox360 Elite and using HDMI for audio and video..
> 
> 
> When I first turn on the xbox, I get picture and sound, but when the xbox menu pops up, I loose the sound..
> 
> 
> The Fix:
> 
> 
> I have to goto a different input on the D2, then BAck to the xbox input.. NOw the sound is back..
> 
> 
> 
> Was over at my bud's house the other night, and he also is using the elite xbox with a yamaha 1800 HDMi receiver.. and has audio issues with xbox aswell.. He as to go into his setup menu and and change the surround mode to get sound...
> 
> 
> 
> Very starnge..
> 
> 
> 
> This has been happing for the last several Firmwares on the D2... come to think of it, it has ALWAYS happened..
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, good to know that a Yamaha Reciver has issues with xbox aswell..






Wow...thats what I'm trying to fix. Same X-box....same prob. I never had the problem before the upgrade. I went from 1.01 or what ever it was right up to the 1.31.. Now Im having the same prob as you.


----------



## goatwuss

Hello,


I would like to route the full volume LFE channel to my front speakers. My fronts are full range, and can handle it. Is this possible with the D2/AVM50?


Also - if I have a SACD player coming into the 6ch analog in, is it possible to mix the LFE and the center channel into the front speakers, or is the only option a straight pass-thru with this input?


I'm considering replacing my existing HT-PRE and video scaler with a D2 or AVM50.


Thanks!


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/13738647
> 
> 
> Would it be helpful to minimize chair reflections by placing a pillow in the chair/seating location you are measuring with the mic, to better simulate the accoustics with a person sitting in that spot? This might sound like overkill, but it appears that small things can make a difference in the measurements, and some of our bodies are not very small! Maybe pillows should be placed in all of the seating locations? I have read that sound engineers taking measurements in preparing for live concerts have to factor in the accoustical effect of the audience. Of course most of us have small numbers of people in our HT/audio rooms, but relatively speaking four people in a small room might have a similar accoustical affect as a large number of people in a concert hall. At any rate, one large "body size" bed pillow in the mic measurement area chair seems like it could be helpful to minimize chair reflections for that measurement location. Thoughts?



You're absolutely correct in that pro sound engineers factor in the effect of an audience vs. measurements done with no audience.


But audiences tend to be absorbent and diffusive in the upper frequencies, and have less effect in the lower frequencies, which is where ARC has most effect. So, interesting idea, but not likely to have application to ARC.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nikkos* /forum/post/13742560
> 
> 
> Hi Bob, I was afraid and still am that it is a hardware problem. I'd hate to have to sent this off for weeks. I'm using the balanced outputs to my amps. They have never changed. But things are going downhill FAST. I've spent the past NINETY MINUTES just trying to get the onscreen setup menu to display on my flatscreen. It was there earlier. Not now. I am getting a great picture from the Dish Network receiver. I CAN use the front panel display to set it up, but it is just the fact that my AVM50 seems to be in a whirlpool of problems. It CAN be very complicated, at least for me and frustrating to say the least. I am nowhere near any dealer so it is all in my hands. I'm almost to the point of selling the sound system and going to EARPHONES. ( Can you tell it has been a long day? ) Hopefully Anthem will have some time tomorrow to get this back on the right path. There TRULY should be a "setup tree" that shows a guy exactly how to get his system up and running by following yes/no answers. I've been in electronics all my life and heavy into computers since 1978 and this beast has created the most frustration. However, it IS a REAL GEM when it is working properly. Oh well.......



There is a test software version, V1.31c, that is supposed to fix the problem with the Setup menu not appearing on your TV. Anthem tech support can get you access to that. Apparently the V1.31 software install is not initializing something properly so that some people have this Setup menu problem after some installs (i.e., a re-install may fix it too).


So that frustration may have an easy fix.


However your popping sound may need a different fix if it doesn't respond to the suggestions I just gave you -- in particular the Setup / Source Setup / (device) / Muting setting.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/13743134
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I would like to route the full volume LFE channel to my front speakers. My fronts are full range, and can handle it. Is this possible with the D2/AVM50?
> 
> 
> Also - if I have a SACD player coming into the 6ch analog in, is it possible to mix the LFE and the center channel into the front speakers, or is the only option a straight pass-thru with this input?
> 
> 
> I'm considering replacing my existing HT-PRE and video scaler with a D2 or AVM50.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Tell the Anthem that you have no subwoofer and the LFE input channel will automatically be mixed into the LF and RF channels.


The 6-ch analog inputs can be set either to ANALOG-DIRECT or ANALOG-DSP mode. In ANALOG-DIRECT there is no processing of them (analog "pass through"). In ANALOG-DSP they are re-digitized by the Anthem and *ALL* of the Anthem processing is available on them.


If you set up, for example, a "Music" speaker configuration and specify no subwoofer and no center speaker, then the LFE and C channels of the analog inputs will be steered to your LF and RF speakers as you describe. Again this will require setting ANALOG-DSP operation for that input. You could also have a "Cinema" speaker configuration with a subwoofer and center channel specified for use with other input sources.


By the way, the current D2 manual can be downloaded from here:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...ual/D2_OM.html 


Get the one for the V1.3x firmware.

--Bob


----------



## bibe2146

Hi I'm new, I tried to upgrade the firmware 1.31 to my D2 but Is not working the EXE freeze I wait 2hrs and now the preamp is now working now.


Somwone have you the last firmware release 1.2x or 1.3x.


Best Regards


----------



## yourlilbro

Hello Guys,

I'm having a problem with the S-video input, I can't seem to get picture with all my S-video sources. I thought the D2 can upscale S-video-->HDMI?


Sound is not a problem.


I'm really wanting to see Xanadu and Grease on Laserdisc









And the sattelite in Malaysia is in S-video, crappy I know, but I gotta watch my dose of Jamie Oliver standing 


Thanks,

Farhan.


----------



## izzihd

Anybody else get loud pops/thuds (like the sound of an amp can make when switching on) during chapter or layer changes on an Oppo 981? Just noticed this for the first time after upgading firmward and installing ARC.


Thanks


----------



## nikkos

Hi Bob and everyone. Bob, the "channel changing" pop has not appeared since I upgraded to 1.31. HOWEVER, the appearance of the "tone control chopping/popping" sound from both front panel AND remote is still an issue. Thanks for the heads up on the 1.31c. I have faxed Anthem and am waiting for a phone call now from them. Anxious to hear their solution to this problem. Thanks!!


----------



## nikkos

Hello Izzihd. I also just installed 1.31 and am having two problems. Read my posts above for what is happening here. Have you tried your tone controls after the software update? When I am listening to anything at all and I rapidly change bass or treble I get a chopping/popping noise. NOT as loud as I've heard my amps power on but still annoying. I'm wondering if MAYBE 1.31 is causing the tone control noise also. Maybe people are mainly interested in things OTHER than tone adjustment after the install and are just not noticing the noise in the controls. I'd Hate to mail this off to Canada if there is nothing wrong with it except for the need fof a software fix. Please let me know if you hear noise upon rapid adjustment on the front panel of bass and treble. Thanks!


----------



## funlvr1965

Just got my d2 back from my dealer after having 1.31 installed, when I bring up the onscreen display on my projector I see what appears to be horizontal scan lines on the blue background of the osd not sure if this was there before, is this normal? checked with a friend of mine who also has a d2 and he says that it is, just wanted to get some more feedback, generally dont see any issue with ps3 trailers except one so it might be a source issue, havent had time yet to look at any movies but thats next when I find the time


----------



## TREVLAN

I'm not sure if I should post this here or not, Because it could be the PS3 issue and not the Anthem. But I will try anyways as everyone here is always so helpful.


This is a list of what I'm running and how.

PS3 via HDMI to AVM50. Running Studio60 L/R , CC590 and ADP590 for surround , These are powered by an PA5.

My system was calibrated for SPL to 73-75db with the Anthem and using Zero AS THE REFERENCE LEVEL.


OK so now on to the point of this. When I lwatch BluRay movies and using the new highdef sounds.

Example. PCM sounds pretty good all around.

TrueHD, is the best but plays at a LOWER volume.

DTS-HD MA plays alot louder.

Now by this I mean TrueHD has to be played at -6 to -0 to really hear the movies but it is very very clean sounding.

PCM levels seem good but not as clean as TrueHD but louder.

DTS HDMA is very loud, I mean I have to turn this to -12 or so. If I have this at any higher lever it is like I'm in the damn theater but not pleasing at the same time, More Crunch and bass for sure.

So, I'm asking is this my system or is this the High Def sounds my PS3 is playing. I mean I thought TRUEHD , PCM and DTS HDMA is all the same zeros and ones? But why do they sound different or is this a plecebo effect?

P.s. I know louder isn't better this is why I like TrueHD for the cleaness but it should have just a little more umpf to it, IMO.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13742632
> 
> 
> Well, today I almost bit the bullet and purchased the 40gb PS3. However, the guy at the local Best Buy told me that it was'nt backwards compatable with the PS 1 or the PS2 games.



It's pretty well documented that the 40gb model does not support PS2 or SACD. It does however support Playstation games. Recommend reading the PS3 threads in the Blu-ray sub forum.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/13746417
> 
> 
> Example. PCM sounds pretty good all around.
> 
> TrueHD, is the best but plays at a LOWER volume.
> 
> DTS-HD MA plays alot louder.
> 
> DTS HDMA is very loud, I mean I have to turn this to -12 or so. If I have this at any higher lever it is like I'm in the damn theater but not pleasing at the same time, More Crunch and bass for sure.
> 
> So, I'm asking is this my system or is this the High Def sounds my PS3 is playing. I mean I thought TRUEHD , PCM and DTS HDMA is all the same zeros and ones? But why do they sound different or is this a plecebo effect?
> 
> P.s. I know louder isn't better this is why I like TrueHD for the cleaness but it should have just a little more umpf to it, IMO.



From my limited experience, it could all be in my head but I found the upper-end on Ratatioulle(PCM 48khz) to be a bit edgy and closed-in where I Am Legend(TrueHD 96khz) to be more natural and "smooth". Likely differences in the recording\\mastering techniques.

Historically, I've found DTS tracks to be very juiced up and bass heavy.

I do not know what the cause is for this is as AFAIK, the DTS codec in itself could not account for the differences, but does anyone who mixes using DTS codecs juice up the mix?










I haven't found the major overall volume differences you are recounting however.


----------



## TREVLAN

milt, I agree with what your saying, but yes the volume, I am legend for example does not play LOUD at -5 to -0 but very clean and almost perfect.

The Rat movie for me plays very nicely also but not as clean, but when I pop in anything DTS HDMA I must turn it down. Independance day , Man On Fire , and Die hard 4 especially just kill my room, i mean bass heavy and just like. "WHAT THE HELL THIS IS LOUD" but not as clean as trueHD, if you know what I mean.


----------



## izzihd

Hi Nikkos,


All of my tone setting are flat. My problem seems to have something to do with signal lock. Any other Oppo owners have the pop?


Thanks


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/13746417
> 
> 
> OK so now on to the point of this. When I lwatch BluRay movies and using the new highdef sounds.
> 
> Example. PCM sounds pretty good all around.
> 
> TrueHD, is the best but plays at a LOWER volume.
> 
> DTS-HD MA plays alot louder.
> 
> Now by this I mean TrueHD has to be played at -6 to -0 to really hear the movies but it is very very clean sounding.
> 
> PCM levels seem good but not as clean as TrueHD but louder.
> 
> DTS HDMA is very loud, I mean I have to turn this to -12 or so. If I have this at any higher lever it is like I'm in the damn theater but not pleasing at the same time, More Crunch and bass for sure.
> 
> So, I'm asking is this my system or is this the High Def sounds my PS3 is playing. I mean I thought TRUEHD , PCM and DTS HDMA is all the same zeros and ones? But why do they sound different or is this a plecebo effect?
> 
> P.s. I know louder isn't better this is why I like TrueHD for the cleaness but it should have just a little more umpf to it, IMO.



Since ALL of these different LOSSLESS tracks are being decoded to PCM (except for PCM, which is not encoded to begin with) in the player, then the D2 is seeing the same data type at it's input.


So it must be a content issue - i.e. the tracks are mastered differently.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *izzihd* /forum/post/13749185
> 
> 
> Hi Nikkos,
> 
> 
> All of my tone setting are flat. My problem seems to have something to do with signal lock. Any other Oppo owners have the pop?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I have the 970, with no pops on layer or chapter changes.


----------



## TREVLAN

gdc. re:tracks mastering. I understand but I'm telling you Live free or die hard is just ridiculasly[sp?] loud and kind of annoying bass heavy, Man on Fire same really loud and can get distorted playing at -7 or lower.

But I can play TrueHD [I am legend] at -0 and it is clean and beautiful IMO that is.

I'll mess around a bit with it some more.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/13737124
> 
> 
> I am running 1.31 for about the past month but I do not believe it is the c version. I have not contacted them yet, 2 days of yard work in the desert. I am going to try again tonight or tomorrow and write down what it does before I email nick. My Arc kit should be here next week so I want to have everything squared away before I use it.
> 
> 
> Dick



I spent about 6 hours checking and rechecking and something is definitely wrong. If I turn on the Oppo it comes up on the front panel display with either no audio or video. sometimes a different device will come on. An example tonite I turned on the Oppo and about 15 seconds later it switched to blu ray player. If I enter the setup menu and select the input and then exit, the video and sound will come on. I sent a email to nick to see what he can come up with.


----------



## nikkos

Update on 1.31 upgrade. I was told by Anthem to use a different computer to install the software. I had to order a special usb to serial converter that Anthem suggested. It will be here in a day or two. I did a forth reinstall and my on screen setup screen came back. Still have chopping and popping of sound ONLY when the tone controls are adjusted. Anyone else have this problem? If so PLEASE message me. Thanks.


----------



## yourlilbro

Hello Guys,

I'm having a problem with the S-video input, I can't seem to get picture with all my S-video sources. I thought the D2 can upscale S-video-->HDMI?


Sound is not a problem.


I'm really wanting to see Xanadu and Grease on Laserdisc

And the sattelite in Malaysia is in S-video, crappy I know, but I gotta watch my dose of Jamie Oliver 


Thanks,

Farhan.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/13752144
> 
> 
> I thought the D2 can upscale S-video-->HDMI?



I could be WRONG - But I believe the MANUAL says it
*can not* upscale S-Video to HDMI.

*PAGE 17 of the MANUAL* does seem to Indicate S-Video

to HDMI Conversion is Suppose to WORK.


Now I'm confused because I THOUGHT I remembered it did

not work. Maybe I'm too old to remember all these Forum Answers.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13752430
> 
> 
> I could be WRONG - But I believe the MANUAL says it
> *can not* upscale S-Video to HDMI.
> 
> *PAGE 17 of the MANUAL* does seem to Indicate S-Video
> 
> to HDMI Conversion is Suppose to WORK.
> 
> 
> Now I'm confused because I THOUGHT I remembered it did
> 
> not work. Maybe I'm too old to remember all these Forum Answers.



The D2 definately can process and upscale S-video to HDMI - I have a Laser Disc, a VCR and an iPod HomeDock Pro connected via S-video and scaled to 1080p over HDMI. The D2 does not scale composite at all (at least my old Pioneer Elite VSX-49TX could convert composite to component).


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/13752144
> 
> 
> Hello Guys,
> 
> I'm having a problem with the S-video input, I can't seem to get picture with all my S-video sources. I thought the D2 can upscale S-video-->HDMI?
> 
> 
> Sound is not a problem.
> 
> 
> I'm really wanting to see Xanadu and Grease on Laserdisc
> 
> And the sattelite in Malaysia is in S-video, crappy I know, but I gotta watch my dose of Jamie Oliver
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Farhan.



Did you make sure you have the source set up pointiong to the correct S-video input? Did you make sure the D2 is not looking for another input source (i.e. the source is not set to HDMI preferred)? Is "scaler in" set to S-video?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13752507
> 
> 
> The D2 does not scale composite at all.



SEE







SEE







SEE







I was RIGHT










I was *JUST WRONG* about which one DID NOT WORK










Thanks for Correcting me


----------



## bibe2146

Last night I tried with my computer with windows XP, that updrage working fine.


But with windows 98 is a mess.


Any isue with the video fleeking on HDMI when I go in the setup menu.


Regards.


----------



## yourlilbro

Thanks, guys, I'll try it out later.


Cheers!


Lovely Anthem Mascots BTW.

I THINK I got some when I announce I had got the D2.


Anyways, Theater's in the Sig, tell me what you guys think.


Cheers.


Farhan.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/13753325
> 
> 
> Thanks, guys, I'll try it out later.
> 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> Lovely Anthem Mascots BTW.
> 
> I THINK I got some when I announce I had got the D2.
> 
> 
> Anyways, Theater's in the Sig, tell me what you guys think.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> Farhan.



Wow! I love the theater. I've thought about doing the 2.35:1 screen "thing" but have heard many times the D2 can't do CIH. So, how are you doing this with your equipment?


----------



## drhankz

Hi Bob:


I would not call my HQV Test results conclusive in any way.


But Today I finally got around to trying the HQV disc in the

PS3 with it doing the Upscale from SD-DVD to 1080p.


I compared that to my Pioneer outputting 480i with the D2

doing the Upscale from SD-DVD to 1080p.


YES - I'm still running Anthem FW 1.11










Comparing the two versions - I can not see the difference.


But then I'm no Kris Deering


----------



## The Bogg

I had my D1 updated to D1-hd around December. Firmware version 1.21 on it. Theatre finally ready now. I had previously updated the firmware using a Radio Shack Nexxgen usb to serial adaptor with no problems via my laptop. Tried it last night and it kept on saying "no Anthem D2 found on any port". I used com port 5, tried com port 1. No luck. I thought maybe it was a problem because it was a D1-HD and not an original D2. Used the serial port on my desktop computer (also win xp) and no problem with the update. Weird eh? I'm just glad it recognized my unit.


Tim, the D2 is compatible with 2.35. It does the necessary vertical stretch and then needs to be paired with an anamorphic lens. I've got the prismasonic fe1500r and plan on using the D2 for the stretch, although my Sony Black Pearl can also do the stretch. I'll post pictures later to show you...


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13754079
> 
> 
> Tim, the D2 is compatible with 2.35. It does the necessary vertical stretch and then needs to be paired with an anamorphic lens. I've got the prismasonic fe1500r and plan on using the D2 for the stretch, although my Sony Black Pearl can also do the stretch. I'll post pictures later to show you...



Thanks. I know I've read where Bob has said the D2 can't do 2.35 CIH properly. Perhaps I'm misunderstanding what he's said vs. what you are doing.


Are you doing vertical stretch or horizontal squeeze? Or am I just totally confused by the whole issue?


I'd love to see more pictures.


Bob - can you explain what you've meant when you said the D2 can't do 2.35 CIH properly?


----------



## The Bogg

Tim, hopefully pictures are worth more than words (or at least the same value)...


Hope no-one minds the slightly ot content as well as the gratuitous pics of my setup. It's my new baby and just like my other baby I like to show pics at every opportunity!










The first picture of the cartoon came out blurry. I must've had a little shake as I pushed the button after turning the flash off. Also, the geometry isn't perfect and I haven't actually tweaked the setup.


Pic of the front of the room just for perspective:











Pic with screen down - 100 inch wide 2:35 SR AT screen:











Pic of a movie that is 1.78:1 (16:9). It works out to be about 77 inches wide in this format taking up the whole height of the screen but not the width obviously:











Pic of a movie that is 2.35:1. It has bars all around it because it is unaltered. If you had a 16:9 screen then there would be bars on top and bottom but not on sides:











Same pic with the vertical stretch done. I actually used the one in the Sony because it will take me some time to do it in the Anthem:











Next I put the anamorphic lens in the path and voila it fills the 2:35 screen with no bars on the top or side!:











Hope that helps. My understanding is that the Anthem will do the necessary vertical stretch.


----------



## barry burman

Can someone please explain, what does the arc do with the D2 internals after taking the measurements.Does it just set the x-overs or what ?


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13754134
> 
> 
> Thanks. I know I've read where Bob has said the D2 can't do 2.35 CIH properly. Perhaps I'm misunderstanding what he's said vs. what you are doing.
> 
> 
> Are you doing vertical stretch or horizontal squeeze? Or am I just totally confused by the whole issue?
> 
> 
> I'd love to see more pictures.
> 
> 
> Bob - can you explain what you've meant when you said the D2 can't do 2.35 CIH properly?



The D2 does a great job of the vertical stretch required for 2.35 films with an anamorphic (horizontal stretch) lens. At the bottom of page 64, the latest D2 manual describes what to do and shows what happens. To do the vertical stretch needed, you go to the Video source adjustment mode, select Custom , Vertical size 810 (or adjust to taste). Cinemascope movies look awesome through the D2 to my Sony VW40 projector!










Boggs pictures did a pretty good job of showing what works, but if you have more questions you might look here. http://www.prismasonic.com/english/intro.shtml


----------



## Tim Winders

Very helpful for the pics and the link. I couldn't imagine the D2 couldn't do the necessary vertical stretch. I still don't understand how I misunderstood what Bob has said.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13759805
> 
> 
> Very helpful for the pics and the link. I couldn't imagine the D2 couldn't do the necessary vertical stretch. I still don't understand how I misunderstood what Bob has said.



Tim, there are two different things going on here. The D2 works great for folks who want to set up a CIH configuration for 2.35 movies. You set up a Custom Crop to trim the input to the 2.35 shape, and you then use Anamorphic Scaling which will stretch that uniformly in the vertical direction to match the shape of your defined Video Output resolution. The result is that every pixel of the D2's video output actually contains movie imagery. No pixels are wasted being letter box bars above and below the movie. Of course at this point the (typically) 16:9 video output from the D2 is distorted. Circles in the movie look like tall ovals. But you then project that through an "anamorphic" 2.35:1 lens which OPTICALLY stretches the image uniformly in the horizontal direction. The result is that your original 2.35 movie now fills a 2.35 projection screen with somewhat increased resolution since you didn't waste output pixels from the D2.


For further details, see the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling posts in the collection of posts linked in the first post of this thread.


The *PROBLEM* comes when people with such setups decide they want to be lazy and use them to view normal 16:9 (or 4:3) content without swapping out their anamorphic projection lens for a normal lens. If you feed 16:9 content into such a lens (none of the Custom Crop stuff above) the lens still widens it -- circles now look like wide ovals. So what these folks would like is a mode in the Anthem to "squeeze" the content -- squish it to use only a portion of each line, with the unused pixels on either side set to black. Their anamorphic lens would then optically widen that again and the 16:9 (or 4:3) content would be the right shape again without having to switch to a normal projection lens. The resulting image would fill their 2.35 screen top to bottom but would not extend to the left and right sides of the screen -- effectively you would have 2.35 style pillar box bars either side of the embedded 16:9 image. This is also what would happen if they swapped in their normal projection lens except in that case the portion of the 2.35 screen not lit up would be created by the non-widening nature of the lens as opposed to being created by wasted black pixels formed in the D2.


The problem is the D2 does *NOT* offer a "squeeze" mode like that. Practically speaking, doing a squeeze like that discards a significant amount of horizontal resolution in your 16:9 or 4:3 content (pixels are wasted at either end of each line), so there's a sound technical reason not to offer it. But some folks would like a "squeeze" like this added as a convenience feature despite that. Apparently they don't care that any 16:9 or 4:3 content they watch that way won't look as good as it should look.


Anthem's been asked to add such a "squeeze" feature several times, and I suspect the current hardware is capable of doing it, but it hasn't happened yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13753506
> 
> 
> Hi Bob:
> 
> 
> I would not call my HQV Test results conclusive in any way.
> 
> 
> But Today I finally got around to trying the HQV disc in the
> 
> PS3 with it doing the Upscale from SD-DVD to 1080p.
> 
> 
> I compared that to my Pioneer outputting 480i with the D2
> 
> doing the Upscale from SD-DVD to 1080p.
> 
> 
> YES - I'm still running Anthem FW 1.11
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Comparing the two versions - I can not see the difference.
> 
> 
> But then I'm no Kris Deering



It appears the PS3's de-interlacing is failing Kris' tests because the amount of detail in Kris' tests are confounding the PS3's ability to pick up the cadence. The HQV tests exercise all the cadences but the imagery they use doesn't have the fine detail in Kris' test patterns.


Are you seeing any of the reported scaling blur and Edge Enhancement haloing of the V2.30 PS3 firmware?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/13752144
> 
> 
> Hello Guys,
> 
> I'm having a problem with the S-video input, I can't seem to get picture with all my S-video sources. I thought the D2 can upscale S-video-->HDMI?
> 
> 
> Sound is not a problem.
> 
> 
> I'm really wanting to see Xanadu and Grease on Laserdisc
> 
> And the sattelite in Malaysia is in S-video, crappy I know, but I gotta watch my dose of Jamie Oliver
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Farhan.



There was a hardware problem in certain production versions of the D2 and AVM-50 that could cause loss of S-video over time. Some critical components were apparently varying in value as they aged, causing the S-video signal to not be properly recognized for digitizing (i.e., for feeding to the scaler). This would require a hardware repair. Note that this would also result in loss of the on screen version of the Setup menu since it is internally generated as an S-video source and goes through those same components.


There is an entirely separate SOFTWARE problem that has apparently surfaced in the V1.31 install were something doesn't always get initialized correctly during the install causing loss of S-video (including the on screen Setup menu). Thus any given V1.31 install COULD have this problem, and a re-install MIGHT fix it. The V1.31c test version of the software is supposed to fix this install issue.


Also please note, the S-video inputs on the back of the Anthem are right near the power switch. Since a firmware install involves using that back panel power switch, it is really rather easy to bump one or more of the S-video input plugs and knock them loose. S-video plugs typically have very poor friction fit. So before you do anything else, check that your S-video inputs are still properly plugged in back there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anyone who is experiencing "pops" from one or more inputs after a firmware upgrade: Please check that the Setup / Source Setup / (device) / Muting setting survived the upgrade. If not, fix it manually. The default value is "Med" (medium). Some devices will need the longer "Max" muting period. See Section 3.6 of the manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There are probably some other pending questions I should chime in on, but I'm jet lagged, so that's it for tonight.

--Bob


----------



## yourlilbro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13760094
> 
> 
> There was a hardware problem in certain production versions of the D2 and AVM-50 that could cause loss of S-video over time. Some critical components were apparently varying in value as they aged, causing the S-video signal to not be properly recognized for digitizing (i.e., for feeding to the scaler). This would require a hardware repair. Note that this would also result in loss of the on screen version of the Setup menu since it is internally generated as an S-video source and goes through those same components.
> 
> 
> There is an entirely separate SOFTWARE problem that has apparently surfaced in the V1.31 install were something doesn't always get initialized correctly during the install causing loss of S-video (including the on screen Setup menu). Thus any given V1.31 install COULD have this problem, and a re-install MIGHT fix it. The V1.31c test version of the software is supposed to fix this install issue.
> 
> 
> Also please note, the S-video inputs on the back of the Anthem are right near the power switch. Since a firmware install involves using that back panel power switch, it is really rather easy to bump one or more of the S-video input plugs and knock them loose. S-video plugs typically have very poor friction fit. So before you do anything else, check that your S-video inputs are still properly plugged in back there.
> 
> --Bob



Ow not good, I have had the OSD to not properly appear on the screen and find myself using the LCD panel on the anthem instead. This could be bad, I wouldn't want to send it back that would take weeks, even months.


----------



## EL




> Quote:
> There was a hardware problem in certain production versions of the D2 and AVM-50 that could cause loss of S-video over time. Some critical components were apparently varying in value as they aged, causing the S-video signal to not be properly recognized for digitizing



2 capacitors are bad andloosing their value over time, causing sync problem.

I call this a very minor repair, but still, it has to go.


Mine will have to do a trip back to factory










I don't have anymore OSD but I noticed before loosing it completely (the OSD) that it was behaving like a bad analog broadcast with snow and ghosting.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13760081
> 
> 
> It appears the PS3's de-interlacing is failing Kris' tests because the amount of detail in Kris' tests are confounding the PS3's ability to pick up the cadence. The HQV tests exercise all the cadences but the imagery they use doesn't have the fine detail in Kris' test patterns.
> 
> 
> Are you seeing any of the reported scaling blur and Edge Enhancement haloing of the V2.30 PS3 firmware?
> 
> --Bob



I don't know what material Kris is using. OBVIOUSLY I'm

not an experienced reviewer - as Kris is.


But the race track bleacher test looks perfect. When I

started with this test Disk I was using a DVDO VP-50.

It did not do a good job with the bleacher scan. I see

the PS3 as doing a great job with it at all cadences.


The off axis motion edge effects are the same between

the Pioneer-D2 Combo as the PS3-D2 Combo.


BOTTOM LINE FOR ME







for $299 - it is a KICK BUTT

Profile 2.0 Player. Everything on the planet has faults.

PERFECTION does not exist.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders* /forum/post/13759805
> 
> 
> Very helpful for the pics and the link. I couldn't imagine the D2 couldn't do the necessary vertical stretch. I still don't understand how I misunderstood what Bob has said.



Tim, I'm glad that helped. I would add to what Bob has said that there are PASS THROUGH anamorphic lenses, like Prismasonic, that don't have to be moved from in front of the projector when not in use. With the Prismasonic you just turn two knobs to move the internal lenses, and leave it in place. It also has a motor driven, remote control version of course.


----------



## Tim Winders

Thanks, Bob. I completely misunderstood. I thought it was that the D2 didn't have the ability to do the vertical stretch. I'm glad to hear that it can do that. I'm not worried about the horizontal squeeze. I wouldn't want to lose information from the picture. I don't mind moving a lens out of the way or changing to pass-through mode in the case of the Prismasonic.


Of course, it will probably be YEARS before I talk my wife into a 2.35 screen and anamorphic lens, and there will probably be new hardware by then. But, hey, if some miracle happens, I know I am ready!


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13760598
> 
> 
> BOTTOM LINE FOR ME
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for $299 - it is a KICK BUTT Profile 2.0 Player. Everything on the planet has faults. PERFECTION does not exist.



I totally agree, but isn't it incredible how often we demand perfection in this hobby


----------



## uppacreek

Ok I've been looking into this and I'd really like to ask the D2 forumers out there for opinions on what ARC achieved beyond the benefits of an already acoustically treated room. For instance, if you've taken a great deal of time (and possibly expense) to strategically add bass traps, corner traps and first reflection traps to various locations in your room (to achieve a nice flat frequency response curve with minimal ringing at the listening position), what sonic benefits did you notice subsequently with ARC's EQ process? Would you say that an acoustically treated room is sufficient by itself or does ARC add a significant benefit beyond that?


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EL* /forum/post/13760544
> 
> 
> 2 capacitors are bad andloosing their value over time, causing sync problem.
> 
> I call this a very minor repair, but still, it has to go.
> 
> 
> Mine will have to do a trip back to factory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have anymore OSD but I noticed before loosing it completely (the OSD) that it was behaving like a bad analog broadcast with snow and ghosting.



Is there a particular range of manufacture dates to be concerned with?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13762092
> 
> 
> Is there a particular range of manufacture dates to be concerned with?



I don't know what manufacturing dates are involved in this. I'm pretty certain the problem of loss of S-video (over time) is not in current production units, and I also think it is not in the oldest production units. It is also apparently the case that this problem only affects a handful of units made with these components and during that period -- i.e., if you don't have an S-video failure (or loss of on screen display of the Setup menu) during the warranty period then you are apparently good to go. But if your S-video starts to fail during warranty -- meaning a good S-video display (such as Setup menu) loses image stability after some minutes of display and this is getting worse over a period of days or weeks -- then the only fix is a hardware fix.


Again, don't panic if you see a SUDDEN loss of this display with the V1.31 firmware upgrade. That is an install issue that Anthem is working on, and I think they may have a fix for it already in the V1.31c test version.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DRHANKZ,

Yes, I think people misunderstand Kris' tests. The PS3's de-interlacing for SD-DVDs is broken, but it is broken in a way that won't affect the vast majority of people using it for the vast majority of scenes they watch. It still points out that Sony can improve SD-DVD de-interlacing on the PS3 -- probably by tweaking some threshold parameters for detecting film cadence so that detailed imagery doesn't confuse it. But most people won't notice the occasional glitches that appear in high detail scenes. Kris' tests set a very high standard, but these days, even inexpensive SD-DVD players (using industry standard SD-DVD de-interlacing chips instead of doing it in software) are passing these tests. The point is that SONY is the one that should be worrying about these test more than end users. Off the shelf chips are doing this better than their fancy Cell processor's software.


The PS3 doesn't de-interlace Blu-Ray content yet. 1080i/60 Blu-Ray discs can not be output as 1080p from the PS3. But that's something that Sony is supposed to be adding to the "summer" firmware update. This may be an opportunity for Sony to tweak whatever is screwing up in the SD-DVD side as well. Or they may screw up the 1080i stuff too! We'll see. Of course this doesn't affect Anthem owners since they would just continue to send 1080i/60 to the Anthem for those discs.


For folks who don't have the D2 or AVM-50, I'm actually more alarmed by the posters who say that upscaling of SD-DVDs in the PS3 took a step backwards in the V2.20 and V2.30 firmware releases.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13761498
> 
> 
> Ok I've been looking into this and I'd really like to ask the D2 forumers out there for opinions on what ARC achieved beyond the benefits of an already acoustically treated room. For instance, if you've taken a great deal of time (and possibly expense) to strategically add bass traps, corner traps and first reflection traps to various locations in your room (to achieve a nice flat frequency response curve with minimal ringing at the listening position), what sonic benefits did you notice subsequently with ARC's EQ process? Would you say that an acoustically treated room is sufficient by itself or does ARC add a significant benefit beyond that?



Well first off, you may discover you have Richard Syndrome -- the surprise discovery that a driver is broken in one of your speakers and you haven't noticed!


Second, ARC may come up with a better compromise of speaker levels or speaker cross-overs for you. If you've gone to the trouble of acoustically treating your room, you've probably also taken pains on this in your manual setup, and you may discover that your manual choice for cross-overs works better for you (you can override the crossovers and ARC will recalculate the filters using the crossovers you specify), but you also may discover that ARC's choices work better for you.


Third, ARC may smooth out some differences in speakers for you. Particularly when taken as a compromise over several listening positions.


But probably the biggest difference is that ARC doesn't actually target "flat" in its bass and low midrange. It smooths thing out to be sure, but its target (for higher end speakers) has a bit of a hump in it that has a lot of study behind it. See some of the graphs posted earlier in this thread. These targets are the results of the research studies behind ARC.


I suppose the bottom line is that, at the price, ARC is well worth giving a try even if you are pleased with what you've already done with your room. It is easy enough to hear for yourself and decide which you prefer over time.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13761324
> 
> 
> I totally agree, but isn't it incredible how often we demand perfection in this hobby



In my case there's something more here than just demanding perfection.


I'm treating the SD-DVD performance of Blu-Ray players as an indicator of whether Blu-Ray has become a mature technology in the marketplace. Once you see Blu-Ray players (at reasonable prices) that ALSO take SD-DVD seriously you will have a pretty good indication that Blu-Ray designs are finally settling down. SD-DVD is a "commodity" technology these days, but while the manufacturers are still playing catch up with Blu-Ray they don't have the design and testing time to put into the SD-DVD side of the products.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13762740
> 
> 
> 
> For folks who don't have the D2 or AVM-50
> 
> --Bob



OH MY GOD - there are folks who don't have Anthem


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/13751382
> 
> 
> I spent about 6 hours checking and rechecking and something is definitely wrong. If I turn on the Oppo it comes up on the front panel display with either no audio or video. sometimes a different device will come on. An example tonite I turned on the Oppo and about 15 seconds later it switched to blu ray player. If I enter the setup menu and select the input and then exit, the video and sound will come on. I sent a email to nick to see what he can come up with.



First off, you'll know if you have the V1.31c version because the "c" is displayed as part of the version number when you press the Select button on the remote.


The "c" version is not yet being shipped in new production units and is not on the public download page for the firmware. So unless you got it from the password protected test software page you don't have it.


--------------------------------


You've definitely got one of the more bizarre problems I've heard of. The only thing I can think of is that somehow a source change command is getting into your Anthem. This can sometimes happen if you have a remote control conflict (commands intended for some other device are being picked up by the Anthem). It can also happen if you have the back panel IR sensors turned on and Anthem commands are being mistakenly picked up by those through the vent grills of the Anthem.


Do you have any sort of fancy remote control setup? Perhaps a sensor for a Zone 2 display?


Go into Setup / Triggers & IR & RS232 / Set IR Inputs and disable all but the Front IR for the Main path selection. See Section 3.11 of the manual. Now start viewing again and see if the random source change problem still happens. Keep mental note of ANY remote commands you are doing for ANY devices around the time the unexpected source change happens.


If it does, and if the only remote you are using is the Anthem remote, try using the second Anthem remote that comes with your D2. It is possible (although not likely) that your first remote is faulty. Make sure your remote has fresh batteries installed.


Keep in mind that the Anthem has a command which skips to the next (or previous) active input among all your sources. They are the three buttons for Forward and Backward Skip and Play just under the directional arrows on the Anthem remote. See Section 4.4 of the manual. So if you are mistakenly sending those commands to the Anthem you will change input sources. This could happen if you are using the Anthem remote to control another device and you haven't pressed the button at the top of the Anthem remote to switch it to sending commands to the other device and then you press one of these keys. The remote then issues the command to the Anthem main path instead of to the other device.


Also, if you have any of the overlayed inputs (e.g. DVD2 or DVD3) active -- i.e., not marked as "disabled" in the first line of their Setup / Source Setup definition, then multiple presses of that source selection button on the Anthem will cause source cycling between those. So if DVD2, for example, is setup similar to your normal Oppo setup in DVD1 and you accidentally switch to DVD2, then you may get a change like you are seeing -- i.e. if DVD2 happens to have the altered audio or video input selections in it. Multiple key presses could happen unexpectedly because you have a faulty Anthem remote, or a programmable remote that is mistakenly sending the command multiple times, or because the Anthem is picking up multiple commands as when IR light goes through the vent grills and activates the rear IR sensors. Try making your source selections using the front panel buttons of the Anthem (no remotes used for ANY device) and see if the problem still happens.


Finally, when you go into the Setup / Source Setup menu and then select any of the listed input devices, that too acts as a source change that will stay in place when you then leave the Setup menu. This may also explain some confusion you are having about why the Setup menu seems to be altering things.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13763143
> 
> 
> First off, you'll know if you have the V1.31c version because the "c" is displayed as part of the version number when you press the Select button on the remote.
> 
> 
> The "c" version is not yet being shipped in new production units and is not on the public download page for the firmware. So unless you got it from the password protected test software page you don't have it.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------
> 
> 
> You've definitely got one of the more bizarre problems I've heard of. The only thing I can think of is that somehow a source change command is getting into your Anthem. This can sometimes happen if you have a remote control conflict (commands intended for some other device are being picked up by the Anthem). It can also happen if you have the back panel IR sensors turned on and Anthem commands are being mistakenly picked up by those through the vent grills of the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Do you have any sort of fancy remote control setup? Perhaps a sensor for a Zone 2 display?
> 
> 
> Go into Setup / Triggers & IR & RS232 / Set IR Inputs and disable all but the Front IR for the Main path selection. See Section 3.11 of the manual. Now start viewing again and see if the random source change problem still happens. Keep mental note of ANY remote commands you are doing for ANY devices around the time the unexpected source change happens.
> 
> 
> If it does, and if the only remote you are using is the Anthem remote, try using the second Anthem remote that comes with your D2. It is possible (although not likely) that your first remote is faulty. Make sure your remote has fresh batteries installed.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the Anthem has a command which skips to the next (or previous) active input among all your sources. They are the three buttons for Forward and Backward Skip and Play just under the directional arrows on the Anthem remote. See Section 4.4 of the manual. So if you are mistakenly sending those commands to the Anthem you will change input sources. This could happen if you are using the Anthem remote to control another device and you haven't pressed the button at the top of the Anthem remote to switch it to sending commands to the other device and then you press one of these keys. The remote then issues the command to the Anthem main path instead of to the other device.
> 
> 
> Also, if you have any of the overlayed inputs (e.g. DVD2 or DVD3) active -- i.e., not marked as "disabled" in the first line of their Setup / Source Setup definition, then multiple presses of that source selection button on the Anthem will cause source cycling between those. So if DVD2, for example, is setup similar to your normal Oppo setup in DVD1 and you accidentally switch to DVD2, then you may get a change like you are seeing -- i.e. if DVD2 happens to have the altered audio or video input selections in it. Multiple key presses could happen unexpectedly because you have a faulty Anthem remote, or a programmable remote that is mistakenly sending the command multiple times, or because the Anthem is picking up multiple commands as when IR light goes through the vent grills and activates the rear IR sensors. Try making your source selections using the front panel buttons of the Anthem (no remotes used for ANY device) and see if the problem still happens.
> 
> 
> Finally, when you go into the Setup / Source Setup menu and then select any of the listed input devices, that too acts as a source change that will stay in place when you then leave the Setup menu. This may also explain some confusion you are having about why the Setup menu seems to be altering things.
> 
> --Bob



I will check out a few of your suggestions today or tomorrow. This was happening with my Anthem remote and also my Harmony 880. Yesterday I fixed the problem at least temporarily. I am only using DVD 1 for my Oppo, I used TV1 for my Yamaha changer, VCR for my Sony 400 disc changer and DVD 4 for my PS3. All inputs now work as entered. One other problem I have noticed is when I exit the setup menu I will usually lose video when I return to watching TV, I am assuming this is another HDMI handshake issue. Thanks for all your suggestions, and I will try to check most of them today and tonite. However at the present time everything is working fine. I also sent a email to Anthem but have not had a reply as of yet. It seems to me the isssue is with the multiple DVD inputs.


Dick


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13762843
> 
> 
> I suppose the bottom line is that, at the price, ARC is well worth giving a try even if you are pleased with what you've already done with your room. It is easy enough to hear for yourself and decide which you prefer over time.
> 
> --Bob



Fine and agreed, but I wasn't asking about what I did with my room, I was asking to those that have already done room treatment and then ran ARC. I'd like to hear their experience.


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13762923
> 
> 
> I'm treating the SD-DVD performance of Blu-Ray players as an indicator of whether Blu-Ray has become a mature technology in the marketplace.



Why? The Oppo 980 HDMI out at 480i into our D2 at SD-DVD is done. I couldn't care less if my PS3 provides a decent SD deinterlaced and upscaled video signal to my D2, I don't use it for SD.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13760598
> 
> 
> BOTTOM LINE FOR ME
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for $299 - it is a KICK BUTT
> 
> Profile 2.0 Player.




You found the 40gb PS3 for $299 ?


Where would that be ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13763931
> 
> 
> Why? The Oppo 980 HDMI out at 480i into our D2 at SD-DVD is done. I couldn't care less if my PS3 provides a decent SD deinterlaced and upscaled video signal to my D2, I don't use it for SD.



Why? Because I'm interested in tracking the slow as molasses progress in the deployment of Blu-Ray technology. Not everyone will share my interests (which is probably a good thing!).


I've already stated that, today, it makes little sense to try to use a Blu-Ray player as an SD-DVD player if you want first class SD-DVD playback that's also convenient and easy to use. That will likely change over time, quite possibly as early as next year. And I consider it a key milestone in the deployment of Blu-Ray because it means manufacturers finally have the time to worry about proper implementation of the secondary functions of their Blu-Ray players.


I know how to judge SD-DVD so I can track what's happening there in the Blu-Ray world. I *DON'T* know how to judge many of the other hidden and secondary characteristics of Blu-Ray players. So progress in SD-DVD in Blu-Ray players is, for me, a key surrogate for what might also be happening in other, less easily explored areas of Blu-Ray player technology. The point at which they get SD-DVD right is also likely the time at which other secondary characteristics of their players are getting proper attention.


Aren't you glad you asked?


(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13763845
> 
> 
> Fine and agreed, but I wasn't asking about what I did with my room, I was asking to those that have already done room treatment and then ran ARC. I'd like to hear their experience.



Me too! I was just pointing out some possibilities for why ARC might provide an enhanced result even for people with correctly treated listening rooms.


I *DON'T* have such a room, so I'll shut up now.

--Bob


----------



## Brucemck2

Bob, two questions ...


Can you point me to any threads / postings with before and after ARC measurements? I've scanned a LOT of posts but couldn't find any (if there are any yet.)


What is different vis-a-vis the Audyssey approach to this same problem, other than the shape of the target curve?


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13763845
> 
> 
> Fine and agreed, but I wasn't asking about what I did with my room, I was asking to those that have already done room treatment and then ran ARC. I'd like to hear their experience.



My dedicated home theater with double drywall, sound isolation clips, etc. is only partially "room treated" so far, as I've only got acoustic panels up on my ceiling soffits and the entire front wall behind the acoustically-transparent 10'-wide screen. I've been having too much fun watching movies to install the rest of the fiberglass panels on the lower half of the other walls and cover with cloth, but hope to eventually get there. (Warning: don't EVER hook up your new projector before totally completing your theater construction!)


Installed ARC last week, and the difference is quite apparent. I setup a big floor-to-ceiling corner bass trap behind the screen on one side, but not the other, just to see (and hear) the difference in ARC's frequency response plots. (My carpeted room is completely symmetrical, and I've got 3 identical Triad Gold Monitor In-wall LCR speakers mounted behind my movie screen) The right front speaker near the right front corner bass trap, not surprisingly, had much smoother bass response as measured by ARC than the left or center speakers without any nearby bass traps. However, after applying ARC, it got rid of big 10 db mid-bass peaks on the left and center speakers, making all three LCR speakers sound nearly the same -- much better. So I guess you could say ARC had some of the same effect as a front corner bass trap, but helped my center channel, too.


One other benefit is use of ARC to improve the high-end response. I measured ARC from all 6 of my seats (2 rows of 3 recliners) on tiered risers, near the center and rear (not back wall) of the room. ARC showed a 7-10 db drop in the 15 to 20 Khz range, some of which is caused by room absorption, and some of which MAY have been caused by my "acoustically-transparent" movie screen mesh material. I experimentally set ARC to use 15 KHz (instead of 5 KHz) as the top cutoff, and it really made a huge difference in high frequencies, speech sibilants, cymbals and triangle sounds, etc., but better than just turning up the treble. I may knock it back to a 5 or 10 KHz calculated upper limit, but I'm trying to get used to the difference (which I like, so far).


I've got 4 In-wall Triad Gold Surrounds built into columns installed on the side and rear walls (for 7.1 sound). Because these are each 7-driver dipole speakers mounted up high with tweeters oriented to aim "over the heads" of listeners, ARC also added quite a bit of treble boost to deal with the off-axis treble roll-off where I made my measurements (at seating head level). Even with the diffuse sound of dipoles, the "you are there" presence is significantly enhanced in movies with ARC.


ARC didn't seem to have any effect on the low bass (from a Velodyne DD-18 hidden in a front corner, and dual Triad 10-inch in-wall subs installed in the side columns back by the seating). I had already manually tweaked the Velodyne's system to flatten its room response prior to applying ARC. Fortunately for me, ARC didn't try to roll off the response near 20 Hz (as happened to some people).


Bottom line: ARC is a terrific value for $399 -- much better than the $2500 I had to pay to add room correction to my Lexicon MC-12 system in the other room.


- Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brucemck2* /forum/post/13764944
> 
> 
> Bob, two questions ...
> 
> 
> Can you point me to any threads / postings with before and after ARC measurements? I've scanned a LOT of posts but couldn't find any (if there are any yet.)
> 
> 
> What is different vis-a-vis the Audyssey approach to this same problem, other than the shape of the target curve?



ARC doesn't do "after" measurements. It shows (graphically) "before" measurements, the target curves it will then try to hit, and "calculated" results of what it thinks the "after" measurements would be once you apply the ARC results -- i.e., the are predicted "after" measurements. If you run it again, it turns off the ARC processing to do a new set of "before" measurements, so you can't even trick it into giving you "after" measurements that way.


Anthem says they deliberately left out "after" measurements because slight differences in mic positioning might result in some variations in the curves and thus tech support would get calls from that even though nothing was really wrong.


I didn't bookmark the flurry of posts from a few weeks back when people were posting their ARC graphs. But if you just go back towards the beginning of April and start looking around in this thread they are hard to miss.


Perhaps someone else bookmarked some of those posts and can give you a link to the general area in this thread.


A search for "photobucket" in this thread should also get you to some posts I made on how to host the ARC chart pictures on photobucket.com so you can include them directly in posts here. The ARC results charts will be in posts nearby that.


---------------------------------


Anthem has not given any good technical details as to how ARC works internally. There has been some speculation here that the Audyssey stuff uses "time domain" adjustments that ARC most likely does not use. What difference that makes is not clear (except that you must manually set up your speaker distances and your subwoofer phase and polarity settings).


So far I've not seen any good comparisons here (or elsewhere) between ARC and Audyssey where it really matters -- competent subjective listening tests in real world listening room situations. It would be tough to do that because you need to distinguish the ARC vs. Audyssey stuff from whatever differences are due to the pre-pro used for comparison itself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/13765074
> 
> 
> I experimentally set ARC to use 15 KHz (instead of 5 KHz) as the top cutoff, and it really made a huge difference in high frequencies, speech sibilants, cymbals and triangle sounds, etc., but better than just turning up the treble. I may knock it back to a 5 or 10 KHz calculated upper limit, but I'm trying to get used to the difference (which I like, so far).



Anthem says the reason 5KHz is used as the upper limit is that the audio becomes so directional above that that the mic may get variant results from the different speakers in the different listening positions just due to directionality. I suppose a treated room may reduce that problem. But since you don't see after results in the ARC curves (which might show how bogus directionality screwed up the calculations) you have to trust your ears.

--Bob


----------



## Brucemck2

I suspect height of the mic is an issue for two reasons ...


Surrounds usually get a lot brighter as you move up, unless they are "aimed down" in which case they get a lot less bright as you get out of the aimed beam


Most front loudspeakers have pretty distinct response curves as you change your vertical axis ... so the measurement routind is picking up the "off axis" response rather than the "what you hear when you're sitting down and listening" response.


----------



## TREVLAN

I currently have the Studio cc590. I am looking to upgrade to the cc690. How much space do you need around the center's? Right now my cc590 is sitting in my 60xbr TV stand in the middle/below the TV.

my unit space below is 9 3/4 H X 39 W X 17 1/2 D , and I know the cc690 is 9-1/2x36x15-1/2

The cc590 just fits in Height wise , I know the cc690 will fit thats not the issue, would this tightness pose a problem, as in the rear ports or the center not sounding up to par as it would if it was in an open space? My studio60's have plenty of room from the side and rear walls.


EDIT: Sorry guys, I meant to post this in the Paridgim speaker thread. You can just delete this and accept my appoligise


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/13764854
> 
> 
> You found the 40gb PS3 for $299 ?
> 
> 
> Where would that be ?



On the Sony Style Website - AFTER $100 refund


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EL* /forum/post/13760544
> 
> 
> 2 capacitors are bad andloosing their value over time, causing sync problem.
> 
> I call this a very minor repair, but still, it has to go.
> 
> 
> Mine will have to do a trip back to factory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have anymore OSD but I noticed before loosing it completely (the OSD) that it was behaving like a bad analog broadcast with snow and ghosting.



Mine is already back at the factory. I shipped it on 4/14/08, and it arrived at the factory on 4/23/08. Hopefully, it will be back in my possession soon. Anyway, my D2 had the OSD problem too, and that's one of the reasons I sent it back.


----------



## jayray

with all of the anxiety over the implementation of the DTS-MA in the ps3, there have been a lot of people who recommend using PLXII to matrix the sound to the back channel. I have the AVM 50 and also have the THX Ultra II. Do they do the samething or is one better at matixing to back channels than the other?

John


----------



## The Bogg

Finally got a chance to try my D2. Oppo 980 feeding it 480i, which is upconverted by D2 to Black Pearl. Anyone have the 980? If so do you prefer YCbCr 4:2:2 or 4:4:4? I couldn't find the info anywhere about whether the Oppo does 4:2:2 in 8 or 10bits, anyone know?

First thing I thought when I was cruising the D2 menu was "where the %#$%@! is the menu for the video adjustments?". Good thing it came with a manual!


----------



## rsnodgrass

I finally got my ARC-1 today and the diameter of the microphone is actually too small for the clip on the stand! It just falls out, I can rest it pointing horizontally but that seems broken to me. I thought this was to face directly up!? Am I just missing something entirely!?


----------



## rsnodgrass

Well, I am just taping the microphone to the stand for now










I did my first Standard ARC-1 run w/ Linn 5140 fronts, 5120 center, and Tukan surrounds (no sub or rear).


Why was ROOM EQ set Off for Music sources after ARC-1 correction was uploaded? I was surprised to see that...I first noticed the bass was super amplified compared to before. I switched on Room EQ and things seemed to be improved for music, still much larger bass. I need to spend some time with this setup. Linn isn't known for its huge bass and I always felt mine was quite a bit weak.


Post calibration BASS MANAGEMENT-MOVIE:


FRONTS XOVER: Off

CENTER XOVER: 80 THX

SURND XOVER: 100 Hz

REAR XOVER: NA

SUB/LFE XOVER: NA


Same settings for BASS MANAGEMENT-MUSIC.


I had calibrated speaker levels w/ Radio SPL previously:


* Noise Level: +4.5 dB

* Front-L: +0.0

* Center: -3.0

* Front-R: -0.5

* Sur-R: +0.0

* Sur-L: +0.5


ARC tweaked quite a bit of these:


* Noise Level: +4.5 dB

* Front-L: +3.0

* Center: -3.0

* Front-R: +3.0

* Sur-R: -3.0

* Sur-L: -3.0


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I just received my ARC-1, vertical was how I used it. Required nothing to get it to stay.


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13764895
> 
> 
> Why? Because I'm interested in tracking the slow as molasses progress in the deployment of Blu-Ray technology. Not everyone will share my interests (which is probably a good thing!).
> 
> 
> I've already stated that, today, it makes little sense to try to use a Blu-Ray player as an SD-DVD player if you want first class SD-DVD playback that's also convenient and easy to use. That will likely change over time, quite possibly as early as next year. And I consider it a key milestone in the deployment of Blu-Ray because it means manufacturers finally have the time to worry about proper implementation of the secondary functions of their Blu-Ray players.
> 
> 
> I know how to judge SD-DVD so I can track what's happening there in the Blu-Ray world. I *DON'T* know how to judge many of the other hidden and secondary characteristics of Blu-Ray players. So progress in SD-DVD in Blu-Ray players is, for me, a key surrogate for what might also be happening in other, less easily explored areas of Blu-Ray player technology. The point at which they get SD-DVD right is also likely the time at which other secondary characteristics of their players are getting proper attention.
> 
> 
> Aren't you glad you asked?
> 
> 
> (grin!)
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I'm glad I asked







thanks for explaining, makes perfect sense.


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/13765074
> 
> 
> Bottom line: ARC is a terrific value for $399 -- much better than the $2500 I had to pay to add room correction to my Lexicon MC-12 system in the other room.



Thanks for your comments, very interesting! Sounds like you have an excellent HT. No question ARC is good value, for my cinema settings it definitely opened up the front soundstage, I hear more detail and transparency in the soundtracks.


Using your comment above, I would think that spending $2500 on properly installed room treatments during room setup is the right thing to do. Once the room is physically treated to remove any significant nulls and peaks, modal ringing, etc at the listening position(s), then run ARC for the fine tuning.


What I'm thinking is that ARC doesn't completely remove significant variations (i.e. +/- 25db from reference) in frequency response, but that it does attempt to smooth out the response. Hence, physical treatments would be required in the first order to resolve significant variations then let ARC take care of the rest.


----------



## BillW




rsnodgrass said:


> Well, I am just taping the microphone to the stand for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did my first Standard ARC-1 run w/ Linn 5140 fronts, 5120 center, and Tukan surrounds (no sub or rear).
> 
> 
> Wow! It really smoothed out the center and surrounds. I wonder why the fronts are still dippy around 150Hz?


----------



## AbMagFab




BillW said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsnodgrass* /forum/post/13767786
> 
> 
> Well, I am just taping the microphone to the stand for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did my first Standard ARC-1 run w/ Linn 5140 fronts, 5120 center, and Tukan surrounds (no sub or rear).
> 
> 
> Wow! It really smoothed out the center and surrounds. I wonder why the fronts are still dippy around 150Hz?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have any acoustic treatments and bass traps? Room equalization can only do so much to compensate for room issues. If you have a major drop off or major peak, it's possible it's your room.
Click to expand...


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13768382
> 
> 
> 
> Using your comment above, I would think that spending $2500 on properly installed room treatments during room setup is the right thing to do. Once the room is physically treated to remove any significant nulls and peaks, modal ringing, etc at the listening position(s), then run ARC for the fine tuning.



Just to be clear, the $2500 I spent on room correction with my Lexicon MC-12 in the other room was just for the Lexicon add-in hardware/software and microphone kit, analogous to ARC with the D2. No acoustic room treatments (e.g., bass traps, etc.) were made to that room, since it's a "normal" family room.


Unlike ARC, Lexicon's room correction system only affects response below 300 Hz, since it's based on time-domain rather than frequency-domain measurements; it analyzes sound decay times at different frequencies. Lexicon maintains that sounds above 300 Hz are too directional (with such short wavelengths) that small changes in microphone placement would have too much of an effect on phase/frequency response measurements to be useful above 300 Hz. They also give you 4 microphones to make measurements in 4 room locations simultaneously.


But what this means is that Lexicon's room correction is only effective on smoothing bass -- it can't smooth midrange or any of the treble frequencies like ARC can.


I agree with other posters that it would be interesting to understand technically how the Audyssey room correction operates compared with ARC, or with Lexicon's system. Audyssey may use some combination of time and frequency-domain measurement and compensation.


- Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/13767138
> 
> 
> with all of the anxiety over the implementation of the DTS-MA in the ps3, there have been a lot of people who recommend using PLXII to matrix the sound to the back channel. I have the AVM 50 and also have the THX Ultra II. Do they do the samething or is one better at matixing to back channels than the other?
> 
> John



THX (for 5.1 speaker setups) and THX Ultra 2 (for 7.1 speaker setups) are audio "post processing" algorithms that are applied ON TOP OF whatever surround algorithm you select to raise 2.0 or 5.1 content to a larger number of speakers for output. So it's not an issue of PLIIx *OR* THX, but rather PLIIx *AND* THX -- or not.


Or Neo:6 (for DTS) *AND* THX, or not. Etc.


In addition, THX post processing can be added even if you DON'T have to raise the number of channels for output, as for example if you are playing a DD 5.1 program and have a 5.1 speaker setup.


The specific things that THX and THX Ultra 2 post processing add to the surround sound are actually described pretty well in the Anthem manual (Section 4.8.6). As you'll read, some of the stuff only applies if you have a 7.1 speaker setup -- and thus are using "THX Ultra 2" if you turn THX ON.


With one exception, it is purely personal preference whether you like THX's stuff added onto your surround sound processing or not. I came to the conclusion last year that I liked THX added on top of most DD 5.1 but did not like it on top of DTS stuff. I'll need to revisit that now that I've got ARC smoothing out my room response. I suspect the THX stuff, which is on the whole, fairly subtle, may now make more of a difference.


The one exception is THX's "Re-equalization". This is a slight reduction in Treble in the Center channel to remove the bias added in for modern theatrical movie releases -- a bias added in largely to help to counter the effects of the big hall and crowds on speech. It is the modern, and much more modest, equivalent to the more aggressive "Academy Equalization" that was added to mono audio tracks back in the black and white era to account not only for crowd effects but also for the fact that the speakers were behind the rather thick projection screens used back then, and sound had to penetrate the screens. If you listen to one of those old movies with Academy Equalization still in place, the sound appears "old fashioned" -- hissy and brilliant. But that's only due to the built-in Treble boost. The Anthem provides Mono-Academy audio mode for removing that, and if you apply it you will stop wondering whether sound engineers back then were nuts, as the audio in those old movies suddenly sounds much more reasonable.


But as with removing Academy Equalization, removing the modern Center channel Treble boost with THX Re-equalization processing is tricky because SOME movie discs and SOME movie broadcasts have ALREADY been Re-equalized and you don't want to do it twice! NOTE: You would never want to Re-equalize a normal TV show or live broadcast, although Anthem suggests you might try Re-Equalizing them if the broadcast engineers slipped up and let some video monitor "hiss" interference get into their broadcast -- i.e., using THX Re-equalization as a kind of a handy treble filter to mask that.


Typically for example (but apparently not always), Turner Classic Movies (TCM) removes Academy Equalization for you in their broadcasts.


In the case of Academy Equalization, you just try Mono vs. Mono Academy mode to see which sounds better to you for any given movie. If you find Mono works better, you can also decide to use a surround mode like PLIIx (which does not include the Academy filter).


In the case of THX, the Anthems provide the ability to turn THX Re-Equalization On or Off INDEPENDENTLY of whether or not you are using the rest of the THX post processing stuff. And again, you should try this both ways to see which you like. Some DVDs are marked as "audio already equalized/optimized" for home theater use. This simply means the Re-equalization has already been applied. But most discs are not marked one way or the other on this.


Press the THX button once and use the Up or Down arrows to toggle whether or not THX post processing is used. Note that some audio surround modes (notably Mono-Academy) are only available if THX post processing is turned OFF!


Whether or not THX post processing is turned on, press the THX button twice and select whether Re-Equalization is to be applied. Your Re-Equalization choice is remembered separately per source and separately for the cases of THX itself (i.e., the rest of the THX processing) being On or Off with that source. You can specify the default of whether you want THX On or Off when the audio changes to any specific type of input for each source in the Setup / Mode Presets menu. However, there is no way to make the Re-Equalization choice part of this default, so you need to check your current setting as each movie starts to play and adjust as necessary.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsnodgrass* /forum/post/13767346
> 
> 
> I finally got my ARC-1 today and the diameter of the microphone is actually too small for the clip on the stand! It just falls out, I can rest it pointing horizontally but that seems broken to me. I thought this was to face directly up!? Am I just missing something entirely!?



The mic clip on the stand is slightly wider at one end -- the difference is subtle. Point the wide end of the clip straight up. Slide the mic into the clip so that the body of the mic is centered within the clip. It should be a firm friction fit.


If you mic still falls out then somebody screwed up and included the wrong mic clip with your stand. Contact Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13767225
> 
> 
> Finally got a chance to try my D2. Oppo 980 feeding it 480i, which is upconverted by D2 to Black Pearl. Anyone have the 980? If so do you prefer YCbCr 4:2:2 or 4:4:4? I couldn't find the info anywhere about whether the Oppo does 4:2:2 in 8 or 10bits, anyone know?
> 
> First thing I thought when I was cruising the D2 menu was "where the %#$%@! is the menu for the video adjustments?". Good thing it came with a manual!



As many posts as there are in this thread, I don't believe ANYONE has yet posted real details on YCbCr 4:2:2 vs. 4:4:4 trials with specific sources or displays. I can't try it with my sources or display.


The details of what's different in these two formats are described in a couple posts in the Data Format section of the collection of links in the first post in this thread, but as stated there, you need to try it with specific sources and displays to see which works better (start with 4:4:4 by default). I believe, but I'm not sure it has been confirmed, that the Anthem does 10 bit 4:2:2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




BillW said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsnodgrass* /forum/post/13767786
> 
> 
> Well, I am just taping the microphone to the stand for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did my first Standard ARC-1 run w/ Linn 5140 fronts, 5120 center, and Tukan surrounds (no sub or rear).
> 
> 
> Wow! It really smoothed out the center and surrounds. I wonder why the fronts are still dippy around 150Hz?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Post your ARC results charts and folks might have some suggestions for you.
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsnodgrass* /forum/post/13767786
> 
> 
> Why was ROOM EQ set Off for Music sources after ARC-1 correction was uploaded?



It is apparently just a bug in the ARC 1.1 software -- as opposed to something having gone wrong in the upload and confirmation process itself. You need to manually turn Room EQ ON for every source input after uploading ARC results for the first time, otherwise you won't actually be listening to your ARC results.


My guess is they assumed some folks would try Room EQ OFF for some sources from time to time and they didn't want subsequent ARC uploads to override that. But the first ARC upload really should turn it on for all input sources, and subsequent uploads should retain the current On/Off status for each source AS IS to keep user changes in place.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Update on my stuff:


As it turns out, the new video board for my D2 did *NOT* fix my problem with the failure of my Video Source Adjust setting changes to survive a power cycle. They still revert to factory defaults. Anthem is puzzling over that now.


Also, Anthem is aware that some folks are having issues with S-video with the latest software -- things like Setup menus that bounce vertically and display horizontal interference lines. As it turns out, my D2 is experiencing that as well with the new video board. They believe it has to do with the system correctly detecting the hardware configuration in the D2 and they are working on that one as well. If that's really what's going on, a fix should be available soon.


NOTE: There have been some running changes in the Anthem hardware over time -- for example the character generator used to produce the Setup menu is a different chip from the first production since the older chip is no longer made. These changes don't really alter the user experience, but of course the software has to correctly determine the type of hardware in the unit and adjust itself accordingly.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,


As always, it is very much appreciated the advice you give around here.


John


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13763143
> 
> 
> First off, you'll know if you have the V1.31c version because the "c" is displayed as part of the version number when you press the Select button on the remote.
> 
> 
> The "c" version is not yet being shipped in new production units and is not on the public download page for the firmware. So unless you got it from the password protected test software page you don't have it.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------
> 
> 
> You've definitely got one of the more bizarre problems I've heard of. The only thing I can think of is that somehow a source change command is getting into your Anthem. This can sometimes happen if you have a remote control conflict (commands intended for some other device are being picked up by the Anthem). It can also happen if you have the back panel IR sensors turned on and Anthem commands are being mistakenly picked up by those through the vent grills of the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Do you have any sort of fancy remote control setup? Perhaps a sensor for a Zone 2 display?
> 
> 
> Go into Setup / Triggers & IR & RS232 / Set IR Inputs and disable all but the Front IR for the Main path selection. See Section 3.11 of the manual. Now start viewing again and see if the random source change problem still happens. Keep mental note of ANY remote commands you are doing for ANY devices around the time the unexpected source change happens.
> 
> 
> If it does, and if the only remote you are using is the Anthem remote, try using the second Anthem remote that comes with your D2. It is possible (although not likely) that your first remote is faulty. Make sure your remote has fresh batteries installed.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the Anthem has a command which skips to the next (or previous) active input among all your sources. They are the three buttons for Forward and Backward Skip and Play just under the directional arrows on the Anthem remote. See Section 4.4 of the manual. So if you are mistakenly sending those commands to the Anthem you will change input sources. This could happen if you are using the Anthem remote to control another device and you haven't pressed the button at the top of the Anthem remote to switch it to sending commands to the other device and then you press one of these keys. The remote then issues the command to the Anthem main path instead of to the other device.
> 
> 
> Also, if you have any of the overlayed inputs (e.g. DVD2 or DVD3) active -- i.e., not marked as "disabled" in the first line of their Setup / Source Setup definition, then multiple presses of that source selection button on the Anthem will cause source cycling between those. So if DVD2, for example, is setup similar to your normal Oppo setup in DVD1 and you accidentally switch to DVD2, then you may get a change like you are seeing -- i.e. if DVD2 happens to have the altered audio or video input selections in it. Multiple key presses could happen unexpectedly because you have a faulty Anthem remote, or a programmable remote that is mistakenly sending the command multiple times, or because the Anthem is picking up multiple commands as when IR light goes through the vent grills and activates the rear IR sensors. Try making your source selections using the front panel buttons of the Anthem (no remotes used for ANY device) and see if the problem still happens.
> 
> 
> Finally, when you go into the Setup / Source Setup menu and then select any of the listed input devices, that too acts as a source change that will stay in place when you then leave the Setup menu. This may also explain some confusion you are having about why the Setup menu seems to be altering things.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I tried all of your suggestions and ttried all DVD inputs and got the same resukts. I went back to TV,DVD,VCR,and Tape and everything works fine that way. I did have all ir inputs on, however after disabling them it did not help. Still have not heard from Anthem, however everything works fine this way.

Dick


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13772025
> 
> 
> As many posts as there are in this thread, I don't believe ANYONE has yet posted real details on YCbCr 4:2:2 vs. 4:4:4 trials with specific sources or displays. I can't try it with my sources or display.
> 
> 
> The details of what's different in these two formats are described in a couple posts in the Data Format section of the collection of links in the first post in this thread, but as stated there, you need to try it with specific sources and displays to see which works better (start with 4:4:4 by default). I believe, but I'm not sure it has been confirmed, that the Anthem does 10 bit 4:2:2.
> 
> --Bob



I'll try to do a comparison and post the results in case anyone else is interested. Does anyone know if the Oppo 980 does 8 or 10 bit? I couldn't find this info on the Oppo thread.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Caution re ARC setup vs. firmware updates:


The info I have from Anthem is that ARC results, once uploaded, are not altered by a Reload of Factory Defaults, or Saved settings, or by installing the current firmware versions. You can, of course, manually alter the values that ARC also loads into the Setup menu (speaker levels and crossovers), but altering those doesn't change the separately saved values ARC itself uses. (Those Setup values only alter Room EQ = OFF sources.)


*************************
*IMPORTANT EDIT! The above paragraph is INCORRECT! For the Correct information read this post instead:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post13782399 *


The paragraphs below are still relevant, however.

*************************


However, as part of the testing I'm doing on my D2, I did a re-install of V1.31c on top of itself and afterwards began to feel something was wrong with my ARC stuff. It was nothing dramatic, just a harshness in the high mid-range and the feeling that the volume levels were not right. It could have just been the content I was listening to at the time. Since I had the computer still hooked up however, I re-loaded my last set of ARC results and the problem appeared to go away.


Now this may all be a false alarm. The "problem" was subtle and I didn't really explore it that much. So treat this as just a heads up. If you install firmware and feel your ARC is not working as well as it used to, try re-uploading your current set of ARC results to see if that fixes things. If we can nail down that the firmware installs are in fact actually screwing up the currently loaded ARC results that would be a bug and should be passed on to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## yourlilbro

I'm really getting scared about the S-video hardware problem. Maybe I should try the 1.31 update. Hugh... And expensive option is to get a cheap scaler (of which we all know costs a bomb in Malaysia) and scale those s-video inputs to HDMI (I've got like 3 s-video components, this is a really expensive option...) then plug it to the anthem thru HDMI.


But, how would the anthem recognize the sources individual sound if I'm connecting these thru HDMI?


Wait, uhhh...


----------



## abc999




















Finally able to post my initial results. I am using Elac FS600 series speakers. Will have new theater seats tomorrow therefore a recalibration will be in order after.


----------



## obie_fl

Wow abc those graphs look really good.


OK my ARC isn't here yet but I see all these graphs with the green "calculated" lines. From what I understand ARC does not take samples after the corrections are applied. Has anyone used another program such as REW or TrueRTA to take actual readings with the corrections applied? To me this is a shortcoming of the ARC package but maybe I'm misunderstanding how it works.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yourlilbro* /forum/post/13777009
> 
> 
> I'm really getting scared about the S-video hardware problem. Maybe I should try the 1.31 update. Hugh... And expensive option is to get a cheap scaler (of which we all know costs a bomb in Malaysia) and scale those s-video inputs to HDMI (I've got like 3 s-video components, this is a really expensive option...) then plug it to the anthem thru HDMI.
> 
> 
> But, how would the anthem recognize the sources individual sound if I'm connecting these thru HDMI?
> 
> 
> Wait, uhhh...



Tying up your HDMI inputs for S-video sources sounds pretty wasteful. I suggest you give Anthem a bit of time to sort out what's going on with the recent S-video problem in V1.31 and V1.31c.


This new issue is *NOT* the hardware S-video problem that affected some older units. That hardware problem has a gradual onset -- over a period of weeks -- not a sudden failure triggered by the firmware upgrade. If you happen to have a unit with that older hardware problem, the new firmware won't fix it. You need to get warranty hardware service.


As to your audio question, it is easy in Setup / Source Setup to tell the Anthem whether to look for audio on the HDMI cable from an HDMI source or to use any of the other styles of audio input in conjunction with that HDMI video.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/13778143
> 
> 
> Wow abc those graphs look really good.
> 
> 
> OK my ARC isn't here yet but I see all these graphs with the green "calculated" lines. From what I understand ARC does not take samples after the corrections are applied. Has anyone used another program such as REW or TrueRTA to take actual readings with the corrections applied? To me this is a shortcoming of the ARC package but maybe I'm misunderstanding how it works.



You are correct that ARC doesn't take "after" measurements. The green lines are calculated "predictions" of what the ARC processing should produce.


Anthem decided not to offer "after" measurements because re-positioning the mic is crucial and by the time the ARC results are uploaded the mic has already been moved at least 5 times.


But I think they would have been better served to offer an "after" measurement anyway, one new mic location at a time with an immediate chart being displayed, along with an explanation of why the "after" might look different than the predictions from the original mic locations. That way you could experiment on your own with how a choice of different mic locations in the original measurements affected the ability to smooth out response at additional locations away from those original mic positions.


Ideally, such an "after" measurement would do 2 sweeps (and then immediately show a chart), one with and one without ARC turned on so you could see what ARC is doing. I think they could get close to that by doing the first sweep with Room EQ = OFF, although that would only work if the user hadn't futzed with the values previously uploaded into the Setup menu. Even that is not quite the same as doing the ORIGINAL measurement, since that is done by initially configuring the D2 to ignore the Setup menu values altogether.


ETA: Doing a Room EQ = OFF sweep to compare to a Room EQ = ON sweep is *NOT* actually as good as the original measurement method since the crossovers in the Setup menu will affect the Room EQ = OFF sweep. The original, red line sweep is done without any crossovers engaged. Details, details....

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Red vs. Green:


As part of trying to fix my problem with my Video Source Adjust menu settings not surviving power cycles, Anthem swapped out my original "green" video board with the current "red" video board. This gave me a chance to do some comparison, using V1.31c firmware.


I can't spot ANY difference in video quality -- except that my S-video is now suffering from whatever this new bug is in V1.31.


Calibration levels are identical, and the imaging improvements I saw in my original upgrade to V1.31 are still there without additional improvement or degradation. This is not surprising considering what we know about the changes between the original Gennum chip used on the green board and the newer one used on the red board. The instruction set and functionality of those two chips (for the features the D2 uses) are identical.


The character generator that produces the Setup menu is different and so that text looks a little different, but that's nothing important.


The bottom line is that video improvements are coming from the FIRMWARE changes, and not from red vs. green boards.


--------------------------------


Also, my D2 does not seem to run any cooler with the new board. In my installation, most of the heat from the D2 comes from along the right side (when facing the unit) where the power supply is located. That's still the case. That power supply puts out a good chunk of heat and you need to install the D2 so that this heat can get dissipated. The vents in the middle of the top of the unit -- directly over where the video board is located -- have never gotten really warm for me, and I can detect no substantial change with the new board installed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*My Video Source Adjust problem is fixed!*


My problem with Video Source Adjust menu settings reverting to factory defaults on every power cycle has been fixed. It turned out that somehow I had a corrupted data value in one of the Exponential Gamma Correction settings. This bad value was causing the video board to reset to default settings (I would guess as a fail safe response) during power up. This was true even though I'm not USING Exponential Gamma Correction for any of my inputs!


That bad Gamma value has most likely been in there forever (i.e., since the Gamma correction stuff was first offered over a year ago) but the board firmware is apparently just now checking and rejecting it.


Anthem found this by examining my settings file (saved to the PC with Live Video Settings Editor). They sent me a corrected settings file, and with that one loaded in my D2's Video Source Adjust settings now work fine across power cycles.

--Bob


----------



## EAnderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13779361
> 
> 
> Red vs. Green:
> 
> 
> As part of trying to fix my problem with my Video Source Adjust menu settings not surviving power cycles, Anthem swapped out my original "green" video board with the current "red" video board. This gave me a chance to do some comparison, using V1.31c firmware.
> 
> 
> I can't spot ANY difference in video quality -- except that my S-video is now suffering from whatever this new bug is in V1.31.
> 
> 
> Calibration levels are identical, and the imaging improvements I saw in my original upgrade to V1.31 are still there without additional improvement or degradation. This is not surprising considering what we know about the changes between the original Gennum chip used on the green board and the newer one used on the red board. The instruction set and functionality of those two chips (for the features the D2 uses) are identical.
> 
> 
> The character generator that produces the Setup menu is different and so that text looks a little different, but that's nothing important.
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that video improvements are coming from the FIRMWARE changes, and not from red vs. green boards.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------
> 
> 
> Also, my D2 does not seem to run any cooler with the new board. In my installation, most of the heat from the D2 comes from along the right side (when facing the unit) where the power supply is located. That's still the case. That power supply puts out a good chunk of heat and you need to install the D2 so that this heat can get dissipated. The vents in the middle of the top of the unit -- directly over where the video board is located -- have never gotten really warm for me, and I can detect no substantial change with the new board installed.
> 
> --Bob




Bob, Like everyone else, my D2 also runs pretty hot. Do you or others use cooling fans to exhaust the heat out of the unit? If so, what do you use; type of fan? I ask because I've been looking at some different types such as Active Thermal Management and Quiet Cool from Middle Atlantic. I'm undecided still because of the chance of noise (electrical) being introduced and also not sure if I want to use up one of my trigger ports for the fan or just use an automatic thermostat.


Thanks, Eric


----------



## EAnderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13781354
> 
> *My Video Source Adjust problem is fixed!*
> 
> 
> My problem with Video Source Adjust menu settings reverting to factory defaults on every power cycle has been fixed. It turned out that somehow I had a corrupted data value in one of the Exponential Gamma Correction settings. This bad value was causing the video board to reset to default settings (I would guess as a fail safe response) during power up. This was true even though I'm not USING Exponential Gamma Correction for any of my inputs!
> 
> 
> That bad Gamma value has most likely been in there forever (i.e., since the Gamma correction stuff was first offered over a year ago) but the board firmware is apparently just now checking and rejecting it.
> 
> 
> Anthem found this by examining my settings file (saved to the PC with Live Video Settings Editor). They sent me a corrected settings file, and with that one loaded in my D2's Video Source Adjust settings now work fine across power cycles.
> 
> --Bob




Glad to hear that once again Anthem stands behind their products. Piero at

Anthem has been super in helping me to weed out my problems. It sometimes takes awhile but they've been solved.

So, congrats on your video settings/ power cycle issue.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13781419
> 
> 
> Bob, Like everyone else, my D2 also runs pretty hot. Do you or others use cooling fans to exhaust the heat out of the unit? If so, what do you use; type of fan? I ask because I've been looking at some different types such as Active Thermal Management and Quiet Cool from Middle Atlantic. I'm undecided still because of the chance of noise (electrical) being introduced and also not sure if I want to use up one of my trigger ports for the fan or just use an automatic thermostat.
> 
> 
> Thanks, Eric



I have a double rack with two Middle Atlantic UQFP-4D fans (which have external thermostats that turn them on and off). I do not notice any negative effect on audio.

http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/cooling/uqfp.htm


----------



## EAnderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13781570
> 
> 
> I have a double rack with two Middle Atlantic UQFP-4D fans (which have external thermostats that turn them on and off). I do not notice any negative effect on audio.
> 
> http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/cooling/uqfp.htm



Those are pretty nice, too bad I don't use/have racks, I use shevles from I think Billy Baggs. I guess its safe to assume that most fans designed for this purpose would not cause problems and are grounded properly, three prong.

The fans I've looked at are about the size of a hockey puck and is a set of three.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*SETUP menu or S-Video Problems? Please Respond!*


I'm trying to collect some information on S-video problems to help Anthem sort out the problem I'm having with my new video board and the V1.31c firmware.


There are apparently 2, and quite possibly 3, distinct problems here:


1) Setup menu doesn't appear on screen AT ALL immediately after a V1.31 firmware install. This is apparently an installer problem. Some small fraction of installs leave something improperly initialized. Thus simply doing a re-install may cure the problem. If the Setup menu appears the first time you try after the V1.31 install you are good to go -- it won't fail later. If it DOESN'T appear (at all!) after a firmware install then you have the problem. It won't magically start to appear later. As stated, a re-install of the current firmware may fix this for you. Anthem believes they already have a fix for this (still being confirmed), so future firmware releases should not have this issue.


2) S-video displays -- including the Setup menu itself (which is implemented as an internally generated S-video source) and all other video passed through the scaler from any S-video input source -- becomes unstable over time. Symptoms include loss of color in the image, loss of vertical sync, some interference, wavy distortion of the image, and, eventually, total inability to get any S-video imagery through the scaler. Think of what happens to an old broadcast TV signal as the antenna starts losing the signal. From first appearance of the partial problem to full loss of visibility usually takes weeks -- it depends on how much time you spend viewing S-video sources altogether. The first symptom is that an initially stable S-video image becomes unstable over a period of roughly 15 to 20 minutes of viewing. As the problem progresses, the time to first see the failure shortens until you can't get a stable image at all -- and then eventually you can't get any S-video image, stable or not. This is the HARDWARE problem discussed in recent posts. The problem is due to some bad components on a particular batch of RED video boards made over roughly one production month late last spring. Anthem can tell by unit serial # whether there is any chance you have this particular hardware problem. I do not know the range of affected serial numbers. Since some people don't do much S-video viewing at all (don't spend much time in the Setup menu and have no S-video sources) it is possible that some bad boards are still out there undetected yet, but it is increasingly unlikely. The older green boards and the current red boards (from roughly July 2007) don't have this problem -- meaning no new Anthems have this problem. And not all of the red boards from that production batch have the problem either. Odds are, if you have this problem it is going to show up during your warranty period.


3) And that brings us to the third S-video issue. Since the installation of my replacement video board, and with a V1.31c install, I'm seeing interference lines and vertical instability in the SETUP menu and in my S-video sources. Now the red video board just installed is not supposed to have the hardware problem, and the Setup menu is not completely gone, so this is apparently a NEW S-video issue.


What we want to know is who else is seeing ISSUE #3. If you are seeing issues #1 or #2 I don't need you to post here.


What I am seeing as ISSUE #3 is that the S-video image is visible, but it randomly judders a bit up and down as if it is not maintaining proper vertical sync. In addition, bright interference lines appear across the image at random times. These are not the general waviness of the image as in issue #2, but rather sharp near-white lines.


Initially the interference appears as white horizontal lines at roughly 4 to 6 locations vertically with similar DIAGONAL lines joining the right end of a lower line to the left end of the line above it.


But over time, as you continue to watch an S-video source, THE PROBLEM STARTS TO RECEDE! The first indication of this is that the diagonal interference lines disappear leaving only the horizontal lines at random locations. Then the horizontal lines start to disappear and the vertical stability also improves. Over time the S-video might even become completely stable vertically and with no interference lines -- i.e., it is working right. Or it may be nearly right with just an infrequent vertical glitch usually accompanied by 1 or 2 horizontal interference lines.


ETA: However, if you STOP viewing S-video continuously, whether or not you leave the D2 turned on viewing other video sources, when you eventually go BACK to viewing S-video the problem re-appears at the initial, i.e., worst, stage. It appears to be related to something like the internal temperature of the S-video components themselves (as opposed to the overall temp of the Anthem).


If you have ISSUE #3 I want to hear from you. I need to know if this is a problem that just began with your installation of V1.31. I also need to know if you have the older (green) or newer (red) video board. If you don't know which, just tell me if you got your Anthem prior to, say, February of last year or after July of last year (or in between).


In my case, since the video board was changed out at the same time I went to V1.31c, we can't be sure whether it is a board problem or an installer problem. But the symptoms are distinct from Issues #1 and #2 so we think it is new.


Now my recollection is that a couple of weeks back, before I went travelling, we had a few posters talking about the brand new appearance of horizontal interference lines in their Setup menu. I THINK these posters were talking about something that appeared right after they upgraded to the V1.31 firmware, but I'm not sure! These are folks I need to hear from.


Thanks for your help!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13781419
> 
> 
> Bob, Like everyone else, my D2 also runs pretty hot. Do you or others use cooling fans to exhaust the heat out of the unit? If so, what do you use; type of fan? I ask because I've been looking at some different types such as Active Thermal Management and Quiet Cool from Middle Atlantic. I'm undecided still because of the chance of noise (electrical) being introduced and also not sure if I want to use up one of my trigger ports for the fan or just use an automatic thermostat.
> 
> 
> Thanks, Eric



I'm not using any external fans. I have my D2 in a wooden cabinet with a glass front door on the front and completely open in the back. I removed the shelf above my D2 so that it is on the bottom of a double-height space with no other electronics nearby that would add heat to that space.


I use a remote sensing thermometer -- the type sold in cooking stores that look a little like a gun and usually have a built-in laser to help aim them. Point them at a surface and squeeze the trigger and they report the temperature of that surface. I use this to measure the temperature of the walls and ceiling of the space containing the D2. The key is whether the surrounding surfaces are getting too hot, because that's an indication that the heat isn't being dissipated and your D2 is now sitting in an oven -- which is not good.


Note that it is *NOT* the surface temp of the D2 chassis or the hot air coming out of it that matters. The D2 is SUPPOSED to be throwing off heat. But if the air and cabinetry surrounding it aren't heating up then that heat is getting properly dissipated and everything is fine.


I don't want to see the wall temps getting more than, say 10 degrees F above ambient room temperature. In my case the open back of the cabinet in this double high space is working fine for me so I don't need any additional fans.


By the way, I just discussed this with Nick at Anthem and he states that the new processor on the red video board only runs modestly cooler than the original processor. It is not a major producer of heat compared to the power supply. Switching video boards should not make any significant difference in the heat your D2 produces. The processor itself is also not particularly heat sensitive. However the HDMI circuits on the video board are more heat sensitive which is why they are positioned away from the power supply and up near the top panel vents.


The D2 has ALSO had a power supply change that was introduced last year. I believe the newer power supply does run a bit cooler than the original power supply.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*CORRECTION! Setup Menu Changes *DO* Affect ARC Audio!*


In the course of the other stuff I'm sorting out with Nick on my unit, I just had an interesting discussion with him on how the Setup menu interacts with ARC. My post earlier today on this IS INCORRECT!


Nick is in the process of trying to document this for the manual right now, but here's the updated information for you -- hot off the press so to speak:


* ARC uses the Setup / Speaker Calibration / Noise Level setting to determine the volume level of its sweep tones during the measurement process. If you have already done a manual Speaker Calibration setup according to the D2 manual, then your Noise Level setting is already set to produce the target SPL dB reading you desire from your Left Front speaker -- usually around 75dB. And that will be fine for ARC. However, if you find you are getting too many requests from ARC to retry the test sweeps, you can raise the ARC test sweep volume level by raising that Noise Level setting a bit in the Setup menu. Just a few dB should suffice.


* When you Upload ARC results to your D2, it alters the speaker volume trim settings (Setup / Speaker Calibration) and also the cross over settings (Setup / Speaker Config / Bass Management for both Movie and Music). Unlike what I had posted early today THESE SETTINGS ARE ACTUALLY USED WHEN ARC PROCESSING IS TURNED ON! To be precise, all of them are used EXCEPT for the subwoofer cross over settings for Movie and Music speaker configuration. Those two settings, even though they are uploaded into the Setup menu are, in fact actually stashed elsewhere AS WELL and it is the alternate copy of these that ARC uses.


That means if you manually alter your Speaker Calibration level settings or your cross over settings (excluding the two subwoofer crossovers) YOU WILL ALTER THE AUDIO YOU GET FROM ARC! That is, such changes affect audio output REGARDLESS of whether Room EQ is ON or OFF in the Setup / Source Setup menu for any given source.


A consequence of this is that you should remember to RE-SAVE your User and/or your Installer settings after Uploading ARC results, because if you ever Reload User/Installer Settings without first saving them after the ARC Upload you will, of course, introduce any differences they might contain into your Setup menu's speaker level and cross over settings.


Another consequence is that Reloading Factory Defaults also alters these settings, but of course if you have them saved in User or Installer Settings you can just Reload from those to get them back.


NOTE 1: It is apparently still the case that the other, more hidden parameters sent over by ARC (gains and filter settings) are inviolate. Once Uploaded they are not altered by Reloading Factory Defaults or Saved User/Installer Settings.


NOTE 2: If you *WANT* to alter the cross overs used by ARC, do not just do it in the Setup menu after Uploading ARC results. What you should do instead is to re-run the ARC application in Advanced mode, load your most recent measurements file (no need to re-measure), make the target cross over adjustments in the Targets window of the ARC application, re-Calculate the ARC parameters (based on these adjusted Targets settings), and, finally, Upload that new set of results to the D2.


I'm not sure why the two subwoofer cross overs are treated specially here.


-------------------------------------


On a related note, I am still quite worried that the ARC Upload process is not correctly confirming that the Uploaded values actually got into the D2 without error. The only values you can actually check yourself are the cross over and speaker level settings. You can (and should) directly confirm that the cross over settings in your Setup menu after an ARC Upload match the values displayed in the Targets window of the ARC application (in Advanced mode). The ARC application doesn't offer a similar display of the speaker levels it intends to upload but it should be apparent to you if any of the settings in that portion of the Speaker menu are out of whack after an Upload.


If any of those settings is NOT getting properly transferred into the Setup menu then your Upload is faulty even if it didn't complain. Re-run the Upload. Anthem is looking into what's going on here to make the Upload process more bullet proof.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've heard rumors that Audyssey vs. ARC reviews are in the works. Again these are just rumors so we can't really vet them yet, but the early word that I've heard is that ARC beats the pants off of Audyssey. And at a fraction of the price of course.


Hey, if all you've got is rumors, it's nice if they are POSITIVE rumors! We'll just have to see how it all pans out over the next 6 months or so as things start to get into print. I wouldn't be at all surprised if there's some contradiction in the reviews as testing methodology makes a HUGE difference in such evaluations.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13782164
> 
> *SETUP menu or S-Video Problems? Please Respond!*
> 
> 
> I'm trying to collect some information on S-video problems to help Anthem sort out the problem I'm having with my new video board and the V1.31c firmware.
> 
> 
> There are apparently 2, and quite possibly 3, distinct problems here:
> 
> 
> 1) Setup menu doesn't appear on screen AT ALL immediately after a V1.31 firmware install. This is apparently an installer problem. Some small fraction of installs leave something improperly initialized. Thus simply doing a re-install may cure the problem. If the Setup menu appears the first time you try after the V1.31 install you are good to go -- it won't fail later. If it DOESN'T appear (at all!) after a firmware install then you have the problem. It won't magically start to appear later. As stated, a re-install of the current firmware may fix this for you. Anthem believes they already have a fix for this (still being confirmed), so future firmware releases should not have this issue.
> 
> 
> 2) S-video displays -- including the Setup menu itself (which is implemented as an internally generated S-video source) and all other video passed through the scaler from any S-video input source -- becomes unstable over time. Symptoms include loss of color in the image, loss of vertical sync, some interference, wavy distortion of the image, and, eventually, total inability to get any S-video imagery through the scaler. Think of what happens to an old broadcast TV signal as the antenna starts losing the signal. From first appearance of the partial problem to full loss of visibility usually takes weeks -- it depends on how much time you spend viewing S-video sources altogether. The first symptom is that an initially stable S-video image becomes unstable over a period of roughly 15 to 20 minutes of viewing. As the problem progresses, the time to first see the failure shortens until you can't get a stable image at all -- and then eventually you can't get any S-video image, stable or not. This is the HARDWARE problem discussed in recent posts. The problem is due to some bad components on a particular batch of RED video boards made over roughly one production month late last spring. Anthem can tell by unit serial # whether there is any chance you have this particular hardware problem. I do not know the range of affected serial numbers. Since some people don't do much S-video viewing at all (don't spend much time in the Setup menu and have no S-video sources) it is possible that some bad boards are still out there undetected yet, but it is increasingly unlikely. The older green boards and the current red boards (from roughly July 2007) don't have this problem -- meaning no new Anthems have this problem. And not all of the red boards from that production batch have the problem either. Odds are, if you have this problem it is going to show up during your warranty period.
> 
> 
> 3) And that brings us to the third S-video issue. Since the installation of my replacement video board, and with a V1.31c install, I'm seeing interference lines and vertical instability in the SETUP menu and in my S-video sources. Now the red video board just installed is not supposed to have the hardware problem, and the Setup menu is not completely gone, so this is apparently a NEW S-video issue.
> 
> 
> What we want to know is who else is seeing ISSUE #3. If you are seeing issues #1 or #2 I don't need you to post here.
> 
> 
> What I am seeing as ISSUE #3 is that the S-video image is visible, but it randomly judders a bit up and down as if it is not maintaining proper vertical sync. In addition, bright interference lines appear across the image at random times. These are not the general waviness of the image as in issue #2, but rather sharp near-white lines.
> 
> 
> Initially the interference appears as white horizontal lines at roughly 4 to 6 locations vertically with similar DIAGONAL lines joining the right end of a lower line to the left end of the line above it.
> 
> 
> But over time, as you continue to watch an S-video source, THE PROBLEM STARTS TO RECEDE! The first indication of this is that the diagonal interference lines disappear leaving only the horizontal lines at random locations. Then the horizontal lines start to disappear and the vertical stability also improves. Over time the S-video might even become completely stable vertically and with no interference lines -- i.e., it is working right. Or it may be nearly right with just an infrequent vertical glitch usually accompanied by 1 or 2 horizontal interference lines.
> 
> 
> ETA: However, if you STOP viewing S-video continuously, whether or not you leave the D2 turned on viewing other video sources, when you eventually go BACK to viewing S-video the problem re-appears at the initial, i.e., worst, stage. It appears to be related to something like the internal temperature of the S-video components themselves (as opposed to the overall temp of the Anthem).
> 
> 
> If you have ISSUE #3 I want to hear from you. I need to know if this is a problem that just began with your installation of V1.31. I also need to know if you have the older (green) or newer (red) video board. If you don't know which, just tell me if you got your Anthem prior to, say, February of last year or after July of last year (or in between).
> 
> 
> In my case, since the video board was changed out at the same time I went to V1.31c, we can't be sure whether it is a board problem or an installer problem. But the symptoms are distinct from Issues #1 and #2 so we think it is new.
> 
> 
> Now my recollection is that a couple of weeks back, before I went travelling, we had a few posters talking about the brand new appearance of horizontal interference lines in their Setup menu. I THINK these posters were talking about something that appeared right after they upgraded to the V1.31 firmware, but I'm not sure! These are folks I need to hear from.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help!
> 
> --Bob



I don't think the Setup Menu is a 1.31 problem. I have been complaining about my setup menu since February of this year. I received my D2 in January of this year which came with 1.21d. I initially had a problem with the center channel not producing sound when I ran the speaker sound check in auto mode. So, I contacted Anthem, and they told me to load 1.29j. I did, and the setup menu started having problems ever since. Now, I don't know if 1.29j started causing the problem or if it's been a problem all the time. Anyway, I have sent my unit back to Anthem for that problem and a couple more problems. I exchanged e-mails with Piero today about my unit, and he told me that the problem was with the initial install of software for my D2. They properly installed the latest software again, and it's working fine now. Here's Piero's actual response:

"1. The OSD not working is a recognition problem between the software and the component device that generates the OSD."


Anyway, they will be shipping my unit back to me next week. So, I should have it within 2 weeks due to border crossing issues.


----------



## The Bogg

I compared the video quality between the oppo 980 going directly into the Sony Black Pearl at 480i vs oppo into D2 (going in at 480i and YCbCr at 4:4:4 and 4:2:2). The other settings were the same for both. I noticed in the dark scenes in lotr - fellowship of the ring when they are going to the bridge of kazad dum (or whatever) that it appears more "blocky" in places going through the Anthem. Anyone else notice this? I had thought it might just be my projector which has a dynamic iris, but it does look a little different going through the D2. Otherwise, the picture is quite good. I need to spend more time with it before drawing any major conclusions.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I have had my ARC-1 for a few days and have done three measurement sessions and uploads. The last upload gave no errors but my sub was shaking the house constantly. I recalculated and reloaded and the problem was resolved. The crossover points did not match between the file and the D1 prior to reload, they did after the reload.


I have setup the multiple inputs for my cable box so just by changing from SAT(1) to SAT(2) I can toggle between EQ on and off. I have to say so far I am very satisfied with the results. Subtle but very noticeable and positive changes.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13784237
> 
> 
> I compared the video quality between the oppo 980 going directly into the Sony Black Pearl at 480i vs oppo into D2 (going in at 480i and YCbCr at 4:4:4 and 4:2:2). The other settings were the same for both. I noticed in the dark scenes in lotr - fellowship of the ring when they are going to the bridge of kazad dum (or whatever) that it appears more "blocky" in places going through the Anthem. Anyone else notice this? I had thought it might just be my projector which has a dynamic iris, but it does look a little different going through the D2. Otherwise, the picture is quite good. I need to spend more time with it before drawing any major conclusions.



Remind me which version of the Anthem firmware you have in your D2. I believe my black level smoothness improved significantly when I went from V1.11 to V1.31.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13783252
> 
> 
> I don't think the Setup Menu is a 1.31 problem. I have been complaining about my setup menu since February of this year. I received my D2 in January of this year which came with 1.21d. I initially had a problem with the center channel not producing sound when I ran the speaker sound check in auto mode. So, I contacted Anthem, and they told me to load 1.29j. I did, and the setup menu started having problems ever since. Now, I don't know if 1.29j started causing the problem or if it's been a problem all the time. Anyway, I have sent my unit back to Anthem for that problem and a couple more problems. I exchanged e-mails with Piero today about my unit, and he told me that the problem was with the initial install of software for my D2. They properly installed the latest software again, and it's working fine now. Here's Piero's actual response:
> 
> "1. The OSD not working is a recognition problem between the software and the component device that generates the OSD."
> 
> 
> Anyway, they will be shipping my unit back to me next week. So, I should have it within 2 weeks due to border crossing issues.



Thanks for that. It sounds like you have Issue #1, and that it actually applies to at least some firmware installs prior to V1.31 as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/13784306
> 
> 
> I have had my ARC-1 for a few days and have done three measurement sessions and uploads. The last upload gave no errors but my sub was shaking the house constantly. I recalculated and reloaded and the problem was resolved. The crossover points did not match between the file and the D1 prior to reload, they did after the reload.
> 
> 
> I have setup the multiple inputs for my cable box so just by changing from SAT(1) to SAT(2) I can toggle between EQ on and off. I have to say so far I am very satisfied with the results. Subtle but very noticeable and positive changes.



Good data. It sounds to me like more evidence that the ARC Upload can fail to transfer all the data properly even though no error is generated.


I had a case of that constant sub activity as well after one Upload. I thought I had corrupted my calculated results file somehow but perhaps not. Anthem has fixed one portion of ARC that can result in that as part of the ARC 1.0 to ARC 1.1 change, but apparently there is still another issue, and I wouldn't be at all surprised to learn it is with the accuracy of the data Upload to the D2.

--Bob


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13784423
> 
> 
> Remind me which version of the Anthem firmware you have in your D2. I believe my black level smoothness improved significantly when I went from V1.11 to V1.31.
> 
> --Bob



Was this an advertised improvement by anyone at Anthem or is this purely a subjective observation?


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/13781419
> 
> 
> Bob, Like everyone else, my D2 also runs pretty hot. Do you or others use cooling fans to exhaust the heat out of the unit? If so, what do you use; type of fan? I ask because I've been looking at some different types such as Active Thermal Management and Quiet Cool from Middle Atlantic. I'm undecided still because of the chance of noise (electrical) being introduced and also not sure if I want to use up one of my trigger ports for the fan or just use an automatic thermostat.



I use a 120mm silent fan laying face up on top of the D2 over the centerline vent slots so it pulls hot air out of the D2 (and cool air into the bottom slots). It probably isn't necessary now that I have a red video board and Anthem has fixed their PS3 HDMI heat-related problems, but I like my electronics to run cool for reliability and the D2 does not run cool on natural convection only.


I'm using a 12VDC fan powered off a scavenged 1A wall wart (so I can power a few other fans as well), with a Xantech AC1 triggered AC switch controlling power to the wall wart. A lower cost solution might be to power the fan directly from the #3 trigger output on the D2 which is spec'ed at 200ma and the fan only draws 100ma.


----------



## funlvr1965

after my dealer installed 1.31 on my D2 I noticed a lot more snow and blue screen flashes before the d2 finally locks onto the signal when changing inputs is this something everyone is living with as a result of 1.31 and if not how do I correct this,prior to this I got brief bluescreens before it would lock onto an input (ps3 and hdvdvd player) which didnt bother me since it was rather brief, maybe 2 bluescreens then a lock, now though for the first time im getting a combination of bluescreens and snow and its rather annoying.


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/13785202
> 
> 
> Was this an advertised improvement by anyone at Anthem or is this purely a subjective observation?



I can't put my finger on it but I felt my video was better also.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13784423
> 
> 
> Remind me which version of the Anthem firmware you have in your D2. I believe my black level smoothness improved significantly when I went from V1.11 to V1.31.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I am using 1.31 - the latest one that was on the website. I had no problems installing the firmware - I previously had 1.21. Otherwise it works just fine I think. The processing in my projector is supposedly decent too but I assume the one in the D2 is "better".


----------



## The Bogg

I don't know if it matters but in the video setup menu for setting colorspace where your choices are autoYcbcr, sd, and hd, and rgb studio or extended there is a check beside whichever Ycbcr I choose AND one of the rgb settings. I assume that just means it will choose whichever ycbcr is sent from the dvd player and whichever rgb is sent from the player (if you choose rgb) and that this is not a glitch, right?


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13785220
> 
> 
> I use a 120mm silent fan laying face up on top of the D2 over the centerline vent slots so it pulls hot air out of the D2 (and cool air into the bottom slots). It probably isn't necessary now that I have a red video board and Anthem has fixed their PS3 HDMI heat-related problems, but I like my electronics to run cool for reliability and the D2 does not run cool on natural convection only.
> 
> 
> I'm using a 12VDC fan powered off a scavenged 1A wall wart (so I can power a few other fans as well), with a Xantech AC1 triggered AC switch controlling power to the wall wart. A lower cost solution might be to power the fan directly from the #3 trigger output on the D2 which is spec'ed at 200ma and the fan only draws 100ma.



Are fans made that can plug into the trigger out, or is this something custom I would need to build? Thx


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13785789
> 
> 
> I don't know if it matters but in the video setup menu for setting colorspace where your choices are autoYcbcr, sd, and hd, and rgb studio or extended there is a check beside whichever Ycbcr I choose AND one of the rgb settings. I assume that just means it will choose whichever ycbcr is sent from the dvd player and whichever rgb is sent from the player (if you choose rgb) and that this is not a glitch, right?



Yes, that's by design.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/13785202
> 
> 
> Was this an advertised improvement by anyone at Anthem or is this purely a subjective observation?



There were some bug fixes announced for Component input and output that should have produced imaging improvements, but I'm using HDMI so I'd have to say the improvement here is not advertised and purely subjective.


But I've been living with the original V1.11 for some time, and in my setup the imaging improvements are real. I made a few posts with details back when I installed V1.31 a few weeks ago.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/13785244
> 
> 
> after my dealer installed 1.31 on my D2 I noticed a lot more snow and blue screen flashes before the d2 finally locks onto the signal when changing inputs is this something everyone is living with as a result of 1.31 and if not how do I correct this,prior to this I got brief bluescreens before it would lock onto an input (ps3 and hdvdvd player) which didnt bother me since it was rather brief, maybe 2 bluescreens then a lock, now though for the first time im getting a combination of bluescreens and snow and its rather annoying.



I'm pretty sure that's normal for V1.31. It is forcing more retries to make sure the connection is being setup correctly for the widest range of devices.


The only way to avoid it would be to use Component video from your sources.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13785789
> 
> 
> I don't know if it matters but in the video setup menu for setting colorspace where your choices are autoYcbcr, sd, and hd, and rgb studio or extended there is a check beside whichever Ycbcr I choose AND one of the rgb settings. I assume that just means it will choose whichever ycbcr is sent from the dvd player and whichever rgb is sent from the player (if you choose rgb) and that this is not a glitch, right?



Correct. The Anthem knows whether the input is YCbCr or RGB and you are just making selections for each as some sources may switch which they are sending at the moment in some circumstances.


The "Auto" choice for YCbCr means that the Anthem selects the SD or HD color space depending upon whether the input resolution is 480i/480p (SD) or higher (HD). "Color Space" has to do with which color primary values are used. The HD Color Space allows a larger "color gamut" or range of colors, and the right math has to be used according to whether the input signal is HD or SD YCbCr color space. The fixed choices are for devices that screw up which color space they send to the Anthem -- e.g., some early upscaling DVD players that failed to convert the SD color space data coming off the standard DVD disc to HD color space even though they were upscaling it to 1080i for output.


The choice between Studio and Extended RGB is actually a "Data Format" choice and not a Color Space choice. The Anthem menu input menu is a bit confused in that regard.


More Color Space and Data Format details can be found in the Technology and Terminology post links collected in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13785763
> 
> 
> Bob, I am using 1.31 - the latest one that was on the website. I had no problems installing the firmware - I previously had 1.21. Otherwise it works just fine I think. The processing in my projector is supposedly decent too but I assume the one in the D2 is "better".



OK, you may need to tweak your video calibration a bit.


The key to getting best video out of the Anthem is to FIRST adjust your TV's levels to best reproduce the the test patterns generated internally in the Anthem. Only after you've got that done should you worry about setting up your input sources -- both in the source devices themselves and in the Video Source Adjust menu for each input in the Anthem.


If you are seeing a little blockiness in near blacks through the Anthem, that suggests your black levels (Brighness control) may be set a bit too high. What you are seeing may be the "Blacker than Black" portions of the image which are generally of lower quality than the Black and above stuff. Blacker than Black pixels are there to help video processing be done on the image, but they are not really intended to be seen.


There are 3 places your black level settings might be wrong. First and most important is in the settings in your TV -- test this by viewing the Anthem's test patterns, which are independent of any source device and also independent of any settings in the Video Source Adjust menu. Second is that your source may be set to a "picture mode" which is screwing up its black output levels. Third you may have made adjustments in the Video Source Adjust / Picture menu to compensate either for incorrect settings in your source's output or incorrect settings in your TV's levels.


Read the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post linked in the first post of this thread for some suggestions on setup.


I suggest you null out anything your source device might be doing, and return the Video Source Adjust / Picture settings to factory defaults, and concentrate for now on making small tweaks in the level controls in your TV. Check these against the Anthem's test patterns and then ALSO play some source content to see how the small tweaks alter the resulting imagery.


The thing to keep in mind is that there is not one calibration target that will work with all displays since some displays have "floating" black levels or dynamic iris stuff which means you may need to adjust the Brightness setting up or down from the theoretically right spot for best results.


Also remember that white level settings (Contrast control) interact with black level settings (Brightness control), and so you need to experiment with both to find the sweet spot pair of settings that works best for both.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13782164
> 
> 
> ........ The older green boards and the current red boards (from roughly July 2007) don't have this problem -- meaning no new Anthems have this problem. And not all of the red boards from that production batch have the problem either. ......
> 
> 
> ..... I also need to know if you have the older (green) or newer (red) video board. .....



Bob,

My video board is of brown color, definitely neither green nor red. Where does that put me?







I am using 1.31c, and so far, the Setup screen is fine. But I am going to spend some time watching some LDs and see if I do have this S-Video problem.

Ben


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13786395
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure that's normal for V1.31. It is forcing more retries to make sure the connection is being setup correctly for the widest range of devices.
> 
> 
> The only way to avoid it would be to use Component video from your sources.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/13785244
> 
> 
> after my dealer installed 1.31 on my D2 I noticed a lot more snow and blue screen flashes before the d2 finally locks onto the signal when changing inputs is this something everyone is living with as a result of 1.31 and if not how do I correct this,prior to this I got brief bluescreens before it would lock onto an input (ps3 and hdvdvd player) which didnt bother me since it was rather brief, maybe 2 bluescreens then a lock, now though for the first time im getting a combination of bluescreens and snow and its rather annoying.



I would like to confirm the brief screen flashing and since loading upgrade 1.31on my D2 there are now occasional HMDI drop outs while viewing which cause the same screen flashes and an the D2 is unable to lock back into the source.

To overcome this HDMI problem changing to any other source with the remote and back to the original source you were viewing solves the problem.


This NEVER happened before the upgrade and the only thing that changed was the upgrade to 1.31.


Stew


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13787032
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> My video board is of brown color, definitely neither green nor red. Where does that put me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am using 1.31c, and so far, the Setup screen is fine. But I am going to spend some time watching some LDs and see if I do have this S-Video problem.
> 
> Ben



I don't know when they might have made brown video boards. When did you get your Anthem?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/13787039
> 
> 
> I would like to confirm the brief screen flashing and since loading upgrade 1.31on my D2 there are now occasional HMDI drop outs while viewing which cause the same screen flashes and an the D2 is unable to lock back into the source.
> 
> To overcome this HDMI problem changing to any other source with the remote and back to the original source you were viewing solves the problem.
> 
> 
> This NEVER happened before the upgrade and the only thing that changed was the upgrade to 1.31.
> 
> 
> Stew



What HDMI source is giving you this problem?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13786042
> 
> 
> Are fans made that can plug into the trigger out, or is this something custom I would need to build? Thx



Sure there are fans that can be driven by the triggers, but it is also very inexpensive to buy a 12 volt power brick from, say, Radio Shack, clip the plug off the end of the wire, and use that to power your fan. If you want the fan to be controlled by the trigger there are also trigger-driven power strips that are sold. Plug the power strip into wall power, run a trigger wire to the power strip (usually a mini mono earphone jack is used for this) and the power strip will turn on when triggered. Then, for example, you can plug the 12 volt power brick into that. The fanciest setup is to have the fan controlled by a thermostat so that it runs only when there is a need to remove heat (which may continue AFTER the Anthem is turned off for example).

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13787066
> 
> 
> I don't know when they might have made brown video boards. When did you get your Anthem?
> 
> --Bob



It was shipped in mid April 07 - I got my hands on it Apr 27 07.

Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/13745491
> 
> 
> Just got my d2 back from my dealer after having 1.31 installed, when I bring up the onscreen display on my projector I see what appears to be horizontal scan lines on the blue background of the osd not sure if this was there before, is this normal? checked with a friend of mine who also has a d2 and he says that it is, just wanted to get some more feedback, generally dont see any issue with ps3 trailers except one so it might be a source issue, havent had time yet to look at any movies but thats next when I find the time



This is precisely the S-video problem I'm trying to get some details on.


How old is your D2? Do you know if you have the red or green video board?


Do you have any other S-video input sources you could try to see if the same sort of "scan line" interference shows up?


And if you leave the Setup menu (or any other S-video source) on screen for a while (10 minutes say), does the problem start to go away?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13787156
> 
> 
> It was shipped in mid April 07 - I got my hands on it Apr 27 07.
> 
> Ben



It sounds to me like you could be in the production window where you MIGHT have a video board with the possible S-video hardware problem.


Yes, you should watch some S-video sources for a while and see if things stay stable. Again, it is my understanding that only some of the boards produced in that batch will develop the problem, and if it is going to develop it should happen pretty soon.


Most people who had the problem spotted it just from their periodic use of the Setup menu, which of course is never all that extensive. So watching some LDs should set your mind at ease pretty fast.


To further set your mind at ease, you might also email Anthem tech support with your unit serial # and purchase date and just ask them if your unit is even part of that production run. Then you'd know whether it was worth your time to exercise the S-video for longer just to be sure.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse

Hi,


I was a beta tester of the ARC so have been using it for a while now and wanted to post the following observation/suggestion.


First of all I would state as I have previously, I am not sure I have ever encountered anything that has improved my system as much as the ARC - I had a Velodyne SMS-1 which I have since sold as it had absolutely no use in my system after ARC.


That being said, I have one minor complaint about ARC which although it meant me spending some additional $$$ I think it was worth it.


We all agree that mic placement is crucial in the ARC testing to ensure it is getting a read at the all important sweet spot and the subsequent spots. Complications arise with seating and ear level. The mic stand included with ARC is a PROBLEM.


I went to a music store and purchased a "adjustable, telescoping" mic stand and voila - my issues are gone. This has enabled me to get the head of the mic "precisely" where my ears are and replicate that spot in all of my other readings.


After doing so I have noticed subtle differences = the best got a bit better and it was a much easier procedure.


If you don't want to purchase - most music stores "rent" everything so it would probably cost next to nothing to take one of these stands for a weekend from a local musician shop.


It is too bad that the stand with the ARC is not one of these but in my eternal quest for perfection (GOOD LUCK!!!) this stand has made my ARC readings easier and more accurate.


Cheers friends!


/\\/\\


----------



## cpcat

Well, just installed v1.31 (from 1.11e) on my AVM50 and so far so good with no glitches. Can't say I notice any differences in PQ yet. Multiple video output configurations sure are nice!


Couple questions:


Regarding colorspace, assuming my HDMI source doesn't offer YCbCr 422, would it theoretically be better to put "data format" at RGB and input RGB (at video levels) from my sources so the Anthem doesn't have to convert colorspace? I understand this disables color and tint controls on the processor but that's ok with me.


Assuming my source does offer 422, would it be theoretically advantageous to set "data format" at 422 for that source?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13787073
> 
> 
> What HDMI source is giving you this problem?
> 
> --Bob



It is only occasional and mostly on Comcast using a Motorola DCT 6412 III DVR but does happen though less with OPPO 983 using HDMI also.

As I stated above it never happened before the update to 1.31.

No other changes.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/13787702
> 
> 
> Well, just installed v1.31 (from 1.11e) on my AVM50 and so far so good with no glitches. Can't say I notice any differences in PQ yet. Multiple video output configurations sure are nice!
> 
> 
> Couple questions:
> 
> 
> Regarding colorspace, assuming my HDMI source doesn't offer YCbCr 422, would it theoretically be better to put "data format" at RGB and input RGB (at video levels) from my sources so the Anthem doesn't have to convert colorspace? I understand this disables color and tint controls on the processor but that's ok with me.
> 
> 
> Assuming my source does offer 422, would it be theoretically advantageous to set "data format" at 422 for that source?



Your best bet is to do as little massaging of the data as possible before it gets to the Anthem.


Standard DVD, Blu-Ray, and HDTV are *ALL* YCbCr content (YCbCr 4:2:0 to be precise), so if your source offers YCbCr output that's what you should use. For most people YCbCr 4:4:4 (the default) is what will work best. For some devices, YCbCr 4:2:2 will allow more video processing "rounding" bits to get into the Anthem (at the expense of halving the horizontal color resolution), and similarly out to a display from the Anthem. The differences can be subtle.


For home theater applications, I only recommend using RGB data format if you have no choice from the device (e.g., DVI devices will typically insist on RGB) or if you know the device has a bug in its implementation of YCbCr. For example, some devices fail to do color space conversion when they should, or clip Blacker than Black or Peak White data, when set for YCbCr but work OK for RGB. There are just about as many devices that get it wrong the other way as well! So there's not pat guarantee that RGB will work right either!


By the way, the SD to HD color space conversions are trivial to implement. So the problem is not that a conversion might have to happen (e.g. an up-converting DVD player switching the images from SD to HD color space for its upscaled output), but that some devices simply fail to do it when they are supposed to do it. A color space conversion involves multiplication by, and addition of, standardized constant values per each of the 3 data components of each pixel.


ETA: See the Data Format posts linked in the collection of links in the first post in this thread for details on the difference between 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 and some guidance on why it *MIGHT* be better to use 4:2:2 when available, but also might NOT be better.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/13787964
> 
> 
> It is only occasional and mostly on Comcast using a Motorola DCT 6412 III DVR but does happen though less with OPPO 983 using HDMI also.
> 
> As I stated above it never happened before the update to 1.31.
> 
> No other changes.



Yeah, the Comcast Motorola boxes are notorious for their shoddy HDMI implementation. Some Comcast markets have pushed out firmware updates to the Motorola boxes which make this worse, some that make it better. You have no control over when Comcast pushes out new firmware to that box.


I use the same box and I'm seeing the same static-like flashes that you are seeing during handshakes. Some resolution change handshakes can take 6-10 seconds or so to finalize which is definitely longer than with V1.11. On the other hand, the good news is that now, when it stabilizes, it always seems to be right! I've not had the loss of imaging that you are reporting requiring a switch to a different input and back (to force a new HDMI handshake) whereas I had to do that rather often with the V1.11 Anthem software. I.e., the older handshake was faster but was more likely to get it wrong.


I realize you had fewer problems before, but Comcast/Motorola just makes HDMI connections tough. The ultimate solution with these Comcast boxes is probably to cave in and switch to Component video and optical digital audio cabling. Apparently Comcast is migrating newer boxes into some markets, so that might also be a solution down the road.


For now, double check that HDMI Repeater = NO and Auto Dig = NO are both set in Setup / Source Setup for that Anthem input. And consider upgrading your HDMI cable from the Comcast box to the Anthem. Sometimes just a slightly different mechanical fit in the HDMI sockets can make a big difference.

--Bob


----------



## thebland

Since cable is 720P or 1080i, why not use component. It is bullet-proof and there are no delay in flipping channels... HDMI (digital) was simply not built for channel surfing. I am all HDMI (HD DVD, 2 Blu Ray players, D-VHS....but no doubt about it, TV gets analog)!! Not sure of the HDMI attraction to cable, am I missing something?


----------



## The Bogg

I haven't had any problems so far with hdmi repeater = yes (which was the default), should I still change it?


Bob, thanks for the reply above about checking black levels etc... My Sony black pearl projector was actually calibrated by Jason here at AVS. It's not on one of the "burn your retina" modes. Interestingly, I think it is slightly better if I leave it at Auto YCbCr.


Off topic, but after diddling around with sd dvds and having fun I finally hooked up the PS3 and put in spiderman bluray...ohmigod, the difference was bigger than I remember. Wow. 1080p24 works great through the Anthem.


----------



## netroamer

Quote:

Originally Posted by *drmabuse* 
We all agree that mic placement is crucial in the ARC testing to ensure it is getting a read at the all important sweet spot and the subsequent spots. Complications arise with seating and ear level. The mic stand included with ARC is a PROBLEM.


I went to a music store and purchased a "adjustable, telescoping" mic stand and voila - my issues are gone. This has enabled me to get the head of the mic "precisely" where my ears are and replicate that spot in all of my other readings.


After doing so I have noticed subtle differences = the best got a bit better and it was a much easier procedure.

/\\/\\
I used a mic boom with and elastic suspension mic holder I've had sitting around from my production studio days. Setting it up for optimum listening position measurement is far easier than the included mic stand and I'm sure the suspended holder allows for a more accurate bass measurement. I suggested to Anthem they might consider making the mic stand an option to lower the cost for those who don't need it. I doubt if they will!


Here is my run at 5k with ARC 1.1.1beta

 

ARC Graph 1.pdf 403.02734375k . file

 

ARC Graph 2.pdf 394.173828125k . file


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13788109
> 
> 
> Your best bet is to do as little massaging of the data as possible before it gets to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Bob



Thanks. 444 it is then for the BD player. 422 is mandatory for my HDDVD (Tosh A1) player as it's the only way to get proper video levels from it (the player suffers from below black clipping with any other output).


My only option from my D* STB is HDMI RGB. What I was getting at in my first question was whether I should set up a separate output configuration utilizing RGB. That way, no conversion need be done inside the Anthem before output to my display as it (Sony vpw-50) also will take RGB input. The AVM50 OM hints on p.59 that less internal processing is done with RGB when it states "if input is RGB and output is RGB, color and tint are not adjustable, so that color space conversion is avoided."


In any case, it sure is nice to have the option now with multiple video output configurations.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/13788287
> 
> 
> Since cable is 720P or 1080i, why not use component. It is bullet-proof and there are no delay in flipping channels... HDMI (digital) was simply not built for channel surfing. I am all HDMI (HD DVD, 2 Blu Ray players, D-VHS....but no doubt about it, TV gets analog)!! Not sure of the HDMI attraction to cable, am I missing something?



Just as with analog vs. digital audio, if you use Component outputs from a set top box the quality of the HDTV or satellite video is dependent upon the quality of the VIDEO DACs -- i.e., the digital to analog output conversion stage in the set top box.


Do you really trust, say, Motorola to get this right?


As it turns out, the video DACs in many of the set top boxes out there aren't all that bad, but with HDMI connections you avoid the whole issue.


----------------------------


In addition, it is much tougher for the home theater enthusiast to calibrate video from a set top box since there is no equivalent to the "calibration DVD" unless you invest in a signal generator.


And Component connection calibration varies significantly between source devices -- even between two boxes of the same model.


But the calibration you do for an HDMI DVD connection is actually quite likely to work for an HDMI set top box connection as well barring gross errors like setting the output data format incorrectly.


That means you can set up calibration for an HDMI DVD player and, quite likely, transfer those results directly to the connection from an HDMI set top box.


--------------------------


Given that, if you want video imaging nirvana, isn't a little handshake delay a small price to pay?


Keep in mind that you can ALSO eliminate resolution change re-handshakes by telling your set top box to output 1080i for ALL channels. I don't recommend that -- native channel output resolution is better as the scaling in many of these boxes is even worse than their video DACs -- but its another way to reduce the handshake inconvenience without, at least, damaging your 1080i HDTV viewing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13788316
> 
> 
> I haven't had any problems so far with hdmi repeater = yes (which was the default), should I still change it?
> 
> 
> Bob, thanks for the reply above about checking black levels etc... My Sony black pearl projector was actually calibrated by Jason here at AVS. It's not on one of the "burn your retina" modes. Interestingly, I think it is slightly better if I leave it at Auto YCbCr.
> 
> 
> Off topic, but after diddling around with sd dvds and having fun I finally hooked up the PS3 and put in spiderman bluray...ohmigod, the difference was bigger than I remember. Wow. 1080p24 works great through the Anthem.



HDMI Repeater = Yes is actually the default for HDMI. The HDMI connection is supposed to be set up entirely by the source device in the chain of devices. That means the source first sets things up to the next device in the chain, and then does things with the next device beyond that THROUGH the first device. And so on until the end of the chain is reached. That's the Repeater protocol.


The problem is that many source devices simply don't do this very well. Some don't even do it at all. For example, many set top boxes simply give up the instant they discover there is anything in between them and the TV.


The alternative is to put the smarts into the intervening device to do this extra processing. The intervening device can then pretend to the source that the source is directly connected to a TV. The intervening device then becomes responsible for doing the rest of the processing.


That's what Repeater = NO does with the Anthem.


There are some distinct advantages with Repeater = NO. In addition to set top boxes which don't do repeater processing well, you can also do audio to the Anthem even when the TV is turned off without worry about whether the source device understands that case.


So far I have found not one case where Repeater = YES is either necessary or beneficial.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/13789160
> 
> 
> Thanks. 444 it is then for the BD player. 422 is mandatory for my HDDVD (Tosh A1) player as it's the only way to get proper video levels from it (the player suffers from below black clipping with any other output).
> 
> 
> My only option from my D* STB is HDMI RGB. What I was getting at in my first question was whether I should set up a separate output configuration utilizing RGB. That way, no conversion need be done inside the Anthem before output to my display as it (Sony vpw-50) also will take RGB input. The AVM50 OM hints on p.59 that less internal processing is done with RGB when it states "if input is RGB and output is RGB, color and tint are not adjustable, so that color space conversion is avoided."
> 
> 
> In any case, it sure is nice to have the option now with multiple video output configurations.



I don't think you'll find any advantage setting up a separate RGB Video Output configuration for use when viewing your RGB input device, but of course it certainly doesn't hurt to try it and see (presuming your TV will accept both). You'll need to separately check your video output calibration for the RGB output (meaning your TV will need to have a separate bank of level settings it uses if the input is RGB vs. YCbCr.


Some displays won't offer level adjustments when fed RGB input.


YCbCr is used for video storage because tricks can more easily be played to reduce the data size (e.g., 4:2:0 vs. 4:4:4 or even black & white vs. color!). But physical display devices, particularly modern digital displays, are inherently RGB at the point where the pixels light up.

--Bob


----------



## rajman

I have an AVM20 upgraded to the AVM50 in October with ver 1.21. I am running my DVD player outputting 480i through component input and then out through HDMI to my projector. I recently upgraded to ver 1.31 and am having an unusual problem.


The picture outputted to my projector was slightly undersized i.e. it did not fill the whole screen even though I have my projector completely filling the screen when it is displaying its turn on sequence. I thought, no problem, so I went into the Crop Input Menu and adjusted the Horizontal Size and Vertical Size parameters in the custom scaling option so the video image did fill the screen. In fact, I mapped another input on the AVM (TV1) to the same input and set the size parameters to output a vertically stretched image for 2.35 viewing and this works fine as my projector lacks the vertical stretch function and this allows a quick changeover of aspect ratios. However, if I turn my AVM off and then later turn it on or go to the setup menu for source, audio etc and then back to the DVD input these parameters are lost. That is, the initial outputted image after the re-powerup is the same undersized image as before my adjustments. But when I go back into the crop input menu I see that the custom input selection is still selected and the values of the hor. size and vert. size are as I had last adjusted them. If I now go and try to readjust, say, the horizontal size setting, as soon as I change the value even by one unit the whole image suddenly reverts to the correct size. This also happens with my vertically stretched option on TV1...when I initially view it the black bars are present as they normally would be but in the crop menu the values of the custom setting are for a stretched image (vert. value about 810). As soon as I try and adjust the value of the vert. size by even one unit the image immediately resumes its fully vertically stretched appearance.










It almost appears that the repower-up causes the AVM to default to the HDMI autodetect option rather than to the custom setting in the crop menu even though it is indicating that the custom setting is selected. Any ideas on why this is happening and how to get around it as the unit woks well otherwise. Thanks for any help.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/13786042
> 
> 
> Are fans made that can plug into the trigger out, or is this something custom I would need to build? Thx



You'll need a 1/8" mono cable from Radio Shack ($3.50), the fan-to-PS/Molex adapter cable that comes with the fan ($13) and someone who can solder (priceless) (sorry, no link). Splice 1/2 of each cable together (observe polarity, ignore the tach wire) to make a trigger-to-fan adapter cable.


If you try this, let us know if it works







It should from the specs (200ma Trigger #3 output rating and the fan only draws 100ma), but I haven't tried it personally as I use the method suggested by Bob above (triggered AC strip) as it allows me to control several fans from the D2 trigger.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13787247
> 
> 
> It sounds to me like you could be in the production window where you MIGHT have a video board with the possible S-video hardware problem.
> 
> 
> Yes, you should watch some S-video sources for a while and see if things stay stable. Again, it is my understanding that only some of the boards produced in that batch will develop the problem, and if it is going to develop it should happen pretty soon.
> 
> 
> Most people who had the problem spotted it just from their periodic use of the Setup menu, which of course is never all that extensive. So watching some LDs should set your mind at ease pretty fast.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

From what I've read, seems that this S-Video problem surfaces when the Setup Menu is being accessed. I can't remember if anyone ever mentioned that the problem occured while using an S-Video source input.


If I'm not wrong, could it be that the problem lies with the S-Video generator and not with the S-Video input/output path? If so, then I'll be wasting my time watching for the problem while a viewing S-Video source, won't I?

--Ben


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13789954
> 
> 
> I don't think you'll find any advantage setting up a separate RGB Video Output configuration for use when viewing your RGB input device, but of course it certainly doesn't hurt to try it and see (presuming your TV will accept both). You'll need to separately check your video output calibration for the RGB output (meaning your TV will need to have a separate bank of level settings it uses if the input is RGB vs. YCbCr.
> 
> 
> Some displays won't offer level adjustments when fed RGB input.
> 
> 
> YCbCr is used for video storage because tricks can more easily be played to reduce the data size (e.g., 4:2:0 vs. 4:4:4 or even black & white vs. color!). But physical display devices, particularly modern digital displays, are inherently RGB at the point where the pixels light up.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks again. I've set up a different video output configuration for studio RGB, 444, and 422 and configured the two "native" RGB sources (both STB's) for RGB, the BD player for 444 and the HDDVD player for 422.


My Sony Pearl allows for tint/color with RGB so it's no problem. I can set up the display for RGB input then tweak the 444 and 422 inputs accordingly using the tint/color/brightness/contrast adjustments on the Anthem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13791207
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> From what I've read, seems that this S-Video problem surfaces when the Setup Menu is being accessed. I can't remember if anyone ever mentioned that the problem occured while using an S-Video source input.
> 
> 
> If I'm not wrong, could it be that the problem lies with the S-Video generator and not with the S-Video input/output path? If so, then I'll be wasting my time watching for the problem while a viewing S-Video source, won't I?
> 
> --Ben



The hardware problem that has been referred to here (Issue #2 in my list), appearing in some video boards out of that specific production batch, affects ALL S-video sources, including the Setup menu's on screen display (which is an internally generated S-video source). Viewing either the Setup menu or any other S-video source for a while will exercise the same components -- the ones that might change in value inappropriately with use.


It's just that for many D2 and AVM-50 owners, the Setup menu is their most common, or even their ONLY, use of S-video as a source.


The software problem (Issue #1 in my list), resulting from some installs of V1.31, and potentially fixable simply by re-installing V1.31, affects, I believe, only the on-screen display of the Setup menu.


Issue #3 quite clearly affects both the Setup menu and other S-video sources. We don't know yet whether that one is a hardware or software issue although right now I'm leaning towards it being software as we have at least 2 posters who saw it right after V1.31 or V1.31c installs..

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/13791316
> 
> 
> Thanks again. I've set up a different video output configuration for studio RGB, 444, and 422 and configured the two "native" RGB sources (both STB's) for RGB, the BD player for 444 and the HDDVD player for 422.
> 
> 
> My Sony Pearl allows for tint/color with RGB so it's no problem. I can set up the display for RGB input then tweak the 444 and 422 inputs accordingly using the tint/color/brightness/contrast adjustments on the Anthem.



OK. It will be interesting to hear if you find any differences.


Understand that if your DISPLAY supports YCbCr 4:2:2 at 10 or 12 bits, then you might get an advantage using 4:2:2 to the display even though the input source to the Anthem is RGB or YCbCr 4:4:4. That's because the video processing inside the Anthem itself can also use those extra bits in the results it sends to the display -- the tradeoff, again, being that only half the horizontal resolution is used for the Cb and Cr (color) components of the data.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13791990
> 
> 
> The hardware problem that has been referred to here (Issue #2 in my list), appearing in some video boards out of that specific production batch, affects ALL S-video sources, including the Setup menu's on screen display (which is an internally generated S-video source). Viewing either the Setup menu or any other S-video source for a while will exercise the same components -- the ones that might change in value inappropriately with use.
> 
> 
> It's just that for many D2 and AVM-50 owners, the Setup menu is their most common, or even their ONLY, use of S-video as a source.
> 
> 
> The software problem (Issue #1 in my list), resulting from some installs of V1.31, and potentially fixable simply by re-installing V1.31, affects, I believe, only the on-screen display of the Setup menu.
> 
> 
> Issue #3 quite clearly affects both the Setup menu and other S-video sources. We don't know yet whether that one is a hardware or software issue although right now I'm leaning towards it being software as we have at least 2 posters who saw it right after V1.31 or V1.31c installs..
> 
> --Bob



OK, Bob, thanks for your clarification. I am using 1.31c at the moment, and all is fine. I will continue watching LDs







for a while yet and see whether the problem will surface on my unit. I hope not, ever. Crossing all my fingers.


By the way, I noticed that with S-Video, output signals are present both at S-Video as well as component. I suppose it doesn't matter which output I display - ie. the problem will affect both.

-Ben


----------



## obie_fl

OK my ARC package came in Saturday. I had it set up and running in about 10 minutes as I'd already flashed to 1.31 earlier. Did a five position measurement without incident and uploaded the results, all of which took maybe 30-40 minutes. Did some really quick listening tests and it sounded pretty good. Bass seemed smoother but maybe not quite as in your face. Dialog and overall sound definitely seemed improved in both clarity and imaging. My room is heavily treated but still has some fairly large nodes. Overall I'm pretty impressed but have yet to watch an entire movie or done any critical music listening. Some random observations:
My unit came with ARC 1.1
The stand is the perfect height for my seating positions, puts the mic right at ear level.
My crossovers were set quite low, Mains at 35, Center at 50, even the side & rear dipoles were set at 70/75.
This may have been discussed already but it doesn't appear that phase mismatches between the sub and other speakers are accounted for. Am I wrong here?
No way to measure the results after enabling the corrections, I find this very peculiar since you could have a large phase mismatch go undetected.
Overall I'm pretty impressed as I was originally leery of a PC implementation, but it works better then I expected.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajman* /forum/post/13790208
> 
> 
> I have an AVM20 upgraded to the AVM50 in October with ver 1.21. I am running my DVD player outputting 480i through component input and then out through HDMI to my projector. I recently upgraded to ver 1.31 and am having an unusual problem.
> 
> 
> The picture outputted to my projector was slightly undersized i.e. it did not fill the whole screen even though I have my projector completely filling the screen when it is displaying its turn on sequence. I thought, no problem, so I went into the Crop Input Menu and adjusted the Horizontal Size and Vertical Size parameters in the custom scaling option so the video image did fill the screen. In fact, I mapped another input on the AVM (TV1) to the same input and set the size parameters to output a vertically stretched image for 2.35 viewing and this works fine as my projector lacks the vertical stretch function and this allows a quick changeover of aspect ratios. However, if I turn my AVM off and then later turn it on or go to the setup menu for source, audio etc and then back to the DVD input these parameters are lost. That is, the initial outputted image after the re-powerup is the same undersized image as before my adjustments. But when I go back into the crop input menu I see that the custom input selection is still selected and the values of the hor. size and vert. size are as I had last adjusted them. If I now go and try to readjust, say, the horizontal size setting, as soon as I change the value even by one unit the whole image suddenly reverts to the correct size. This also happens with my vertically stretched option on TV1...when I initially view it the black bars are present as they normally would be but in the crop menu the values of the custom setting are for a stretched image (vert. value about 810). As soon as I try and adjust the value of the vert. size by even one unit the image immediately resumes its fully vertically stretched appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost appears that the repower-up causes the AVM to default to the HDMI autodetect option rather than to the custom setting in the crop menu even though it is indicating that the custom setting is selected. Any ideas on why this is happening and how to get around it as the unit woks well otherwise. Thanks for any help.



You could have a power-on problem -- perhaps a variation of the one I had where none of my Video Source Adjust settings survived a power cycle (all reverted to factory defaults), but let's first just make sure that all your video geometry settings actually made it through the firmware upgrade without issue.


So select any input in the Anthem which has no video feed (just so you aren't confusing yourself with video coming from a source), then go to Video Source Adjust / Patterns and bring up any of the Anthem's internally generated test patterns. Does the test pattern fill your screen?


If not then the problem is in your Setup / Video Output configuration or in the settings inside your projector. Those test patterns are independent of any source and independent of any settings in the Video Source Adjust menu itself. It may be that your Video Output to the projector is not set to use its native resolution, or that you have some sort of underscan feature turned on in the projector. If you have video cabled to the projector on more than one cable (e.g., HDMI and Component), it also may be that you have accidentally set the projector to receive video on the wrong input socket.


If that works, i.e., if the Anthem's test patterns properly fill your screen, then power cycle the Anthem and try it again just to make sure it is repeatable. If something different happens with the test patterns after a power cycle you have a new bug of some sort.


--------------------------------


Presuming the test patterns are working, now play a calibration DVD in your DVD player and select the DVD player as the input source. In Video Source Adjust for that input, select Crop Input / Auto Detect and Crop Input / Edges = OFF. Also select Scale Out = Anamorphic.


While you are in there, also confirm that Output / Frame Lock = Off is set.


Meanwhile, in the DVD player, set its 480i output (I understand you are using Component to the Anthem) to know it is talking to a 16:9 TV, and to use the stretch/zoom mode that FILLS THE IMAGE left to right if the content coming off the disc is 4:3. You do NOT want the DVD player to generate pillar box bars around 4:3 content when sending 480i (or 480p) to the Anthem. Let the Anthem do that for you. If your DVD player offers more than one way to do that, pick the one that is described (or shown in pictures) as UNIFORMLY stretching the image left to right. I.e., circles look like wide ovals (since the image is stretched), but they are equally wide regardless of whether they are in the center of the image or near an edge or corner.


Although DVD manuals will describe this as a stretching function since that's what it looks like in the pictures, in fact what is ACTUALLY going on when you make this setting is that the DVD player is not doing ANYTHING to the data. It is passing it on unchanged to the Anthem. It is just that a "16:9 TV" (or in this case the Anthem) interprets each SD-DVD pixel as wider so 4:3 content APPEARS stretched.


Now view any wide screen (1.78) test chart on your calibration DVD that lets you check the edges of the image size. Typically a Sharpness, Resolution, or Pixel Cropping test chart will do the trick. You'll know you are viewing a wide screen chart if circles look like circles (instead of ovals) regardless of where they are in the image.


Does that test chart now fill your display screen? Remember we are still using Crop Input / Auto Detect and Scale Out / Anamorphic in the Anthem. If so then things are working correctly. If not, check Setup / Source Setup for that input in the Anthem and make sure you are sending the Component input you are using to the scaler (Scaler Input setting). If you are using Component cables to your projector, check and make sure you are using the "Main" Component output jacks on the Anthem and not the "Main or Zone 2" jacks just below them.


Once that calibration DVD test chart works right (fills your whole display screen), now power cycle the Anthem and see if if still works right a second time.


-----------------------------------------


If all of the above is good, now play any of your normal DVDs that you were concerned were not filling your display screen. Understand of course that MANY commercial movies won't fill your display screen because the content of the movie itself is not really 16:9. Theatrical releases are often "wider than wide screen" -- e.g. something like 2.35/1 instead of 16:9 (which equals 1.78/1).


Even movies that are supposedly REALLY 16:9 often are not. It is not at all unusual to find a DVD which is 1.66 or 1.85 even though it is described as a 16:9 (= 1.78) movie. Most people won't see the difference because their displays have enough overscan that they aren't really seeing all the way to the true edges of the movie. But if you have a good projection setup with no overscan or pixel cropping, so that you can actually see all the way to the true edges on all 4 sides, then a 1.66 movie will have thin, black "pillar box" bars on either side, and a 1.85 movie will have thin, black "letter box" bars top and bottom. And this is perfectly normal. Those black bars are ALREADY IN THE CONTENT on the DVD itself, since the images stored on the DVD must be a true 1.78 and thus the 1.60 or 1.85 movie has to be padded out with black bars before it can be recorded on the DVD.


And of course any movie recorded in "wider than wide screen" -- e.g., 2.35. will have significant letter box bars top and bottom when displayed on your 16:9 TV. Again, this is true even though you have Anamorphic scaling set in the Anthem since the black bars you are seeing are not being generated by the Anthem, but are, instead, part of the movie content as stored on the DVD itself.


--------------------------------------


So, are you seeing anything different than what I described? If not, so far so good.


Now, it sounds like you may have been playing with Video Source Adjust / Crop Input / Custom as a method of eliminating those black bars coming off of some DVDs. That's a perfectly reasonable thing to do, although you need to understand that you will likely be distorting the imagery a little (circles now look a bit like ovals instead of circles).


To do this, you still want Scale Out / Anamorphic so that the Anthem will uniformly stretch your cropped input to the output shape specified in your Video Output settings. Play the DVD movie and go into Video Source Adjust / Crop Input. Select Custom (a check mark should appear next to Custom and the one next to Auto Detect should disappear -- there should also still be a check mark next to Edges Off). Go into the Custom settings and adjust the Vertical and/or Horizontal size as you desire. The image visible behind the Video Source Adjust menu will vary in real time as you do this. As you tighten your Crop on the input, the image will appear to stretch more (due to the Anamorphic stretch setting) and portions of the image near the tightened edges will disappear off those edges. Set up the Custom crop the way you like it.


Use the Back button several times to exit the Video Source Adjust menu completely. Your cropped image should appear as you just set it.


Now power cycle the Anthem and see what you get. It should return to exactly what you had after making those Custom adjustments. I.e. Video Source Adjust / Crop Input / Custom should be the selection and the data values in the Custom Setting should be as you altered them. In addition Video Source Adjust / Scale Out / Anamorphic should still be selected.


And the imagery from your DVD movie should be cropped as you specified in the Custom selection. If this is not actually happening (after double checking the rest of your geometry setup as described above) then you have a bug and should contact Anthem tech support.


As I understand it you are saying that the values in Video Source Adjust ARE displaying as you expect them to be after a power cycle, but they are just not taking effect for some reason. This is different from the problem I had where the values in Video Source Adjust were reverting to factory defaults on a power cycle, but the cause may be the same -- you may have a corrupted value in your Video Source Adjust settings data which is keeping the video board from properly implementing your settings on power up.


You can save your Video Source Adjust settings to a file on a Windows PC using the Live Video Settings Editor (V1.20 or later) that came with the V1.31 firmware install kit. The same serial connection you used for the V1.31 install is used here. Run the application, do a Get to retrieve your current Video Source Adjust settings from the Anthem, and then a Save to save those settings to a PC file. Email your settings file to Anthem tech support and they can check it to see if there is a bad data value causing your problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13792111
> 
> 
> OK, Bob, thanks for your clarification. I am using 1.31c at the moment, and all is fine. I will continue watching LDs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for a while yet and see whether the problem will surface on my unit. I hope not, ever. Crossing all my fingers.
> 
> 
> By the way, I noticed that with S-Video, output signals are present both at S-Video as well as component. I suppose it doesn't matter which output I display - ie. the problem will affect both.
> 
> -Ben



NO!


To see the problem you must be viewing the output of the Anthem's scaler (i.e., the PROCESSED Component or HDMI output -- whichever you normally use for viewing processed video from the Anthem). The S-video output is simply a switched "pass through" of the S-video input and will not exhibit the problem.


The problem, as I understand it, is in the recognition and digitizing of the S-video input so that it can be fed through the scaler.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/13792269
> 
> My unit came with ARC 1.1
> The stand is the perfect height for my seating positions, puts the mic right at ear level.
> My crossovers were set quite low, Mains at 35, Center at 50, even the side & rear dipoles were set at 70/75.
> This may have been discussed already but it doesn't appear that phase mismatches between the sub and other speakers are accounted for. Am I wrong here?
> No way to measure the results after enabling the corrections, I find this very peculiar since you could have a large phase mismatch go undetected.
> Overall I'm pretty impressed as I was originally leery of a PC implementation, but it works better then I expected.



Subwoofer Phase and Polarity adjustments need to be made manually even when using ARC.


Since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time, it doesn't hear phase effects.


That also means you can fix up your subwoofer phase and polarity WITHOUT having to re-measure, re-calculate, or re-upload your ARC results. The ARC results will just "work better" once your phase/polarity settings are corrected.


You also have to manually set up your speaker distances correctly.


If after listening for a while you remain concerned about ARC's choices for cross over settings, you can re-run the ARC application in Advanced mode, Open your saved file on the PC with your latest measurements and calculations, change the target cross over settings in the Targets window as you prefer, re-calculate new results and re-upload those new results to the Anthem.


But I recommend you get used to how ARCs own settings sound before you futz with that.


I also recommend you exit ARC after making measurements, and before it calculates (something you can do in Advanced mode) and WRITE PROTECT the automatically saved file containing those measurements. Then make a copy of that file, re-run ARC in Advanced mode, Open the copy, and Calculate results into that copy and Upload those results to the D2. Then exit ARC and WRITE PROTECT that file as well, which now contains both your measurements and your calculations. If you want to fiddle with the Targets and recalculate, make another copy and work in that 3rd file. This way, if you screw something up, you will still have your original measurements file and your original calculated results file to fall back on. This is important because ARC makes changes in the currently open file on the fly as you enter them. And in particularly, you don't want to have to take the time to redo the measurements if you screw up your original measurements file.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13792343
> 
> 
> NO!
> 
> 
> To see the problem you must be viewing the output of the Anthem's scaler (i.e., the PROCESSED Component or HDMI output -- whichever you normally use for viewing processed video from the Anthem). The S-video output is simply a switched "pass through" of the S-video input and will not exhibit the problem.
> 
> 
> The problem, as I understand it, is in the recognition and digitizing of the S-video input so that it can be fed through the scaler.
> 
> --Bob



oh!










You know what, Bob. I was thinking if the problem is caused by failing components, after a year of intensive usage, it would have manifested itself by now. Whether I use S-Video or not should be immaterial, since all the circuits are burning when the unit is on. Just hoping ....

-Ben


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13792404
> 
> 
> Subwoofer Phase and Polarity adjustments need to be made manually even when using ARC.
> 
> 
> Since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time, it doesn't hear phase effects.



It doesn't hear the effect but I wonder if it does do some phase or time domain analysis on the individual speakers and compensates from a system/positional perspective.


> Quote:
> That also means you can fix up your subwoofer phase and polarity WITHOUT having to re-measure, re-calculate, or re-upload your ARC results. The ARC results will just "work better" once your phase/polarity settings are corrected.
> 
> 
> You also have to manually set up your speaker distances correctly.



I guess I'm a little surprised it is not doing anything in the time domain. Even my old Outlaw processor could ping and get very accurate distance settings.


> Quote:
> If after listening for a while you remain concerned about ARC's choices for cross over settings, you can re-run the ARC application in Advanced mode, Open your saved file on the PC with your latest measurements and calculations, change the target cross over settings in the Targets window as you prefer, re-calculate new results and re-upload those new results to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> But I recommend you get used to how ARCs own settings sound before you futz with that.



I've already futzed around with the settings and done some new calculations, but I haven't uploaded anything since the initial automated run.


> Quote:
> I also recommend you exit ARC after making measurements, and before it calculates (something you can do in Advanced mode) and WRITE PROTECT the automatically saved file containing those measurements. Then make a copy of that file, re-run ARC in Advanced mode, Open the copy, and Calculate results into that copy and Upload those results to the D2. Then exit ARC and WRITE PROTECT that file as well, which now contains both your measurements and your calculations. If you want to fiddle with the Targets and recalculate, make another copy and work in that 3rd file. This way, if you screw something up, you will still have your original measurements file and your original calculated results file to fall back on. This is important because ARC makes changes in the currently open file on the fly as you enter them. And in particularly, you don't want to have to take the time to redo the measurements if you screw up your original measurements file.
> 
> --Bob



Hmm I did save the file right after the automated run. Correct me if I'm wrong, even if I futz with the settings and calculations the actual measurements shouldn't change should they? When you do a retrieve from the D2 does it grab everything including the "hidden" settings?


As usual thanks for all your help here Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/13793392
> 
> 
> Hmm I did save the file right after the automated run. Correct me if I'm wrong, even if I futz with the settings and calculations the actual measurements shouldn't change should they? When you do a retrieve from the D2 does it grab everything including the "hidden" settings?



I'm not sure what a Retrieve grabs. It may only grab things the user can set in the Setup menu so that you don't have to re-enter them manually in Targets. Presumably that would include the Speaker Calibration level settings as well even though those aren't displayed in Targets. But maybe not!


The only value I could see in grabbing the hidden settings (filter parameters and such) would be to transfer them to another D2. You can't view or alter them in the ARC application. Just re-Calculate -- which replaces them.


We need more Anthem documentation on ARC!


And yes, apparently ARC doesn't try to do anything in the time domain. I would think they could easily add at least speaker distance setup in a future upgrade of ARC.


The measurements are also saved in the file and should be inviolate to any futzing you do, but in the course of one such futzing session I somehow managed to corrupt my measurements in one file (or so it would appear) to the degree that even restoring the original Targets and doing a re-Calculate pass didn't produce good results when I Uploaded. I ended up with constant subwoofer activity for any source where Room EQ was on and the source was not Muted.


I ended up having to do a re-Measurement. So since that is a nuisance to do, I now Write Protect the file right after a set of Measurements are saved and do anything else in a copy of that file.

--Bob


----------



## uberanalyst

After playing around with ARC many times, it seems that more than 50% of the time parameters fail to load properly into the D2. For example, the speaker crossovers on the D2 and often don't match the crossovers selected with PC software. Yet the ARC software on the PC insists that each load completed correctly.


I'm running 1.31 on the D2, and Version 1.1 of the ARC software. I've been using a brand new Macbook Pro running Windows XP (via Boot Camp with all the latest Windows drivers), and a brand new Keyspan "High Speed USB Serial Adapter USA-19HS" with the latest driver for it.


I finally gave up and resorted to transferring the ARC measurement/calculation files from my Mac via a USB thumb drive to an ancient Dell Windows 2000 laptop somebody gave me. The old Dell has a REAL serial port, which seems to communicate perfectly with the D2. (As has been pointed out by others, you can't use a Windows 2000 computer with the microphone, so I still need my MacBook Pro running Windows XP to take measurements.)


I hope that Anthem can modify the ARC software to do a better job of verifying that all parameters have been correctly transferred to the D2.


- Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/13793859
> 
> 
> After playing around with ARC many times, it seems that more than 50% of the time parameters fail to load properly into the D2. For example, the speaker crossovers on the D2 and often don't match the crossovers selected with PC software. Yet the ARC software on the PC insists that each load completed correctly.
> 
> 
> I'm running 1.31 on the D2, and Version 1.1 of the ARC software. I've been using a brand new Macbook Pro running Windows XP (via Boot Camp with all the latest Windows drivers), and a brand new Keyspan "High Speed USB Serial Adapter USA-19HS" with the latest driver for it.
> 
> 
> I finally gave up and resorted to transferring the ARC measurement/calculation files from my Mac via a USB thumb drive to an ancient Dell Windows 2000 laptop somebody gave me. The old Dell has a REAL serial port, which seems to communicate perfectly with the D2. (As has been pointed out by others, you can't use a Windows 2000 computer with the microphone, so I still need my MacBook Pro running Windows XP to take measurements.)
> 
> 
> I hope that Anthem can modify the ARC software to do a better job of verifying that all parameters have been correctly transferred to the D2.
> 
> 
> - Dave



I agree. I've spoken to Nick about this at length. I can understand that they may be having continuing trouble working with USB/Serial converters in some OS configurations, but there should be no reason why the ARC Upload states an Upload has completed properly when in fact it has not.


I would much rather have the USB transmission report failure multiple times than to have it say it did it right when some data did not in fact get transferred correctly.


My worry is that the "hidden" settings (filter parameters and such) may also be getting errors in transmission and the verify process is not catching that either. This is nasty because there's no way to tell by eyeball whether they've gotten over to the D2 correctly.

--Bob


----------



## scottshd

uberanalyst and bob, I also had the same problem of not getting correct arc uploads with the keyspan adapter , worked fine for firmware updates though. bought a serial pc card from newegg as someone here had suggested and no more arc upload problems . with the keyspan I could'nt get through the frequency sweeps for any position with out a few tries. with the pc card it goes through all 5 positions with no problem. I wish now I would'nt have wasted my money on the keyspan and just purchaced the pc card.


----------



## rajman

Thank you Bob for the detailed walk through...it makes it very easy to follow the instructions. As far as the results it appears that I have a bug. When I play the internally generated test patterns the image fills the whole screen. I put up the test pattern from DVE and there is a black border around the whole image which was not there with the test patterns. When I go to the crop menu and deselect Auto and then select custom the image immediately reverts to a full screen with no black border...interestingly the circles on the test pattern stay round seeming to indicate that there is an equal amount of border horizontally and vertically.


When I power cycle the AVM the black borders are back and in the crop menu my custom setting is still the chosen selection. If I then select auto and then immediately select custom the image is full size again. I will do as you suggest and contact Anthem tech support. Thank you for your help.


----------



## seismo

I had the same resuls of not getting correct arc uploads. I have a brand new Toshiba laptop computer running Vista and a Keyspan USB to serial adapter (USA-19H). The firmware update was smooth but with ARC, the uploads are wrong. The subwoofer cutoff frequencies are wrong. Is there a way to correct this without redoing the process again?


Also, something annoying as happened with the D2 menu srolling. To go into the output video 4 menu for example, I can not scroll down more then a line at a time because there is now a 2 second wait for each movement of the cursor. I have to push the down button once wait 2 seconds, then push again etc.. Anybody else with this problem?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/13796862
> 
> 
> I had the same resuls of not getting correct arc uploads. I have a brand new Toshiba laptop computer running Vista and a Keyspan USB to serial adapter (USA-19H). The firmware update was smooth but with ARC, the uploads are wrong. The subwoofer cutoff frequencies are wrong. Is there a way to correct this without redoing the process again?
> 
> 
> Also, something annoying as happened with the D2 menu srolling. To go into the output video 4 menu for example, I can not scroll down more then a line at a time because there is now a 2 second wait for each movement of the cursor. I have to push the down button once wait 2 seconds, then push again etc.. Anybody else with this problem?



All you have to do is redo the Upload itself until you get a good transfer. You can try this with the same computer and serial connection or transfer the results file and re-install your ARC 1.1 software on a different computer and do the Upload from there.


To redo the Upload, start the ARC application and select "Advanced" mode. Then Open the file ARC saved for you during your last run (even if you ran in normal mode). That file contains your measurements and your calculation results. Then select Upload.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajman* /forum/post/13795210
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob for the detailed walk through...it makes it very easy to follow the instructions. As far as the results it appears that I have a bug. When I play the internally generated test patterns the image fills the whole screen. I put up the test pattern from DVE and there is a black border around the whole image which was not there with the test patterns. When I go to the crop menu and deselect Auto and then select custom the image immediately reverts to a full screen with no black border...interestingly the circles on the test pattern stay round seeming to indicate that there is an equal amount of border horizontally and vertically.
> 
> 
> When I power cycle the AVM the black borders are back and in the crop menu my custom setting is still the chosen selection. If I then select auto and then immediately select custom the image is full size again. I will do as you suggest and contact Anthem tech support. Thank you for your help.



There is definitely a problem with your input setup from that device. I can't think of anything that you might be doing wrong in the DVD player itself that would cause this, but perhaps there is an underscan setting in your player.


How thick are the black boarders all around the image? Are they quite thick -- say 20% of the screen in that dimension? If so, what may be going on is that this input is reverting to Scale Out = Bypass -- which would be a bug -- i.e., you are seeing the original 480i image data embedded in your Video Output without it being scaled so that it occupies only the center portion of the screen. To test that, you should set Crop Input at Auto Detect and then see what happens if you change Scale Out between Anamorphic and Bypass and back.


Again, this is just to help isolate where the bug is here. It is still a bug. My guess is you'll need to save your current Video Source Adjust settings to the PC (using the Live Video Settings Editor application) and email that file to Anthem tech support.


In any event, the Crop Input / Custom settings certainly should not act as you describe (one small setting change suddenly causing them to jump into action). So you definitely have a bug in your Anthem software.


It is also possible that Anthem may ask you to re-install the V1.31c firmware just in case your problem is due to a firmware install problem.


Note, you should NOT have to use Crop Input / Custom for normal viewing of DVDs. Crop Input / Auto Detect and Scale Out of either Anamorphic or Letter/Pillar Box should be all you need for those.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/13763397
> 
> 
> I will check out a few of your suggestions today or tomorrow. This was happening with my Anthem remote and also my Harmony 880. Yesterday I fixed the problem at least temporarily. I am only using DVD 1 for my Oppo, I used TV1 for my Yamaha changer, VCR for my Sony 400 disc changer and DVD 4 for my PS3. All inputs now work as entered. One other problem I have noticed is when I exit the setup menu I will usually lose video when I return to watching TV, I am assuming this is another HDMI handshake issue. Thanks for all your suggestions, and I will try to check most of them today and tonite. However at the present time everything is working fine. I also sent a email to Anthem but have not had a reply as of yet. It seems to me the isssue is with the multiple DVD inputs.
> 
> 
> Dick



I still can not get the DVD1 thru 4 to operatr properly. I have not heard back from Anthem as of yet, about 4 days. However I have now developed another problem. I have my mute level set to Silent on menu 10 and my on level to -25. I can increase the volume but cannot decrease it. If I do increase the level and push the mute button it only takes it down to -25. The osd shows the volume decreasing sometimes and the front panel shows all the way down to -95 but the volume does not change. I emailed Anthem this am but have heard nothing yet. I tried resetting factory settings several times and reloading user settings, even tried powering off with back panel and disconnecting cord. Any suggestions? do you think it would help to reload v1.31?


Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/13798821
> 
> 
> I still can not get the DVD1 thru 4 to operatr properly. I have not heard back from Anthem as of yet, about 4 days. However I have now developed another problem. I have my mute level set to Silent on menu 10 and my on level to -25. I can increase the volume but cannot decrease it. If I do increase the level and push the mute button it only takes it down to -25. The osd shows the volume decreasing sometimes and the front panel shows all the way down to -95 but the volume does not change. I emailed Anthem this am but have heard nothing yet. I tried resetting factory settings several times and reloading user settings, even tried powering off with back panel and disconnecting cord. Any suggestions? do you think it would help to reload v1.31?
> 
> 
> Dick



Yes, I think you likely have a bad install of V1.31. Your collection of problems sounds more like a software issue than a hardware issue.


Give Anthem tech support a call (rather than waiting on email) as they will probably suggest you re-install using the V1.31c test version that is on their password protected download page.


Be sure to follow the install instructions carefully, including making sure you do a Reload Factory Defaults prior to the install. (You can reload your Setup menu settings from a Saved User Settings set after the install, and you can reload your Video Source Adjust menu settings from a file on your PC that you save using Live Video Settings Editor.)

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765

Thanks Bob, I will try to call them today.


Dick


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/13799484
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I will try to call them today.
> 
> 
> Dick



Just contacted and they recommend using 1.31 from the website. They said 1.31c was only for special applications. He did say as you did he was almost sure it is software related. Thanks again, will post back after trying reinstall this afternoon.

Dick


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13798192
> 
> 
> All you have to do is redo the Upload itself until you get a good transfer. You can try this with the same computer and serial connection or transfer the results file and re-install your ARC 1.1 software on a different computer and do the Upload from there.
> 
> 
> To redo the Upload, start the ARC application and select "Advanced" mode. Then Open the file ARC saved for you during your last run (even if you ran in normal mode). That file contains your measurements and your calculation results. Then select Upload.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob, I will try to upload again and see what happens. I think I read somewhere that ajusting the D2 menu after an upload in not a complete mode (ARC settings/filters associated with the crossover ia also required)[/i]


Are you aware of anything that could cause the menu navigation to become so slow (as I describe earlier)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/13799935
> 
> 
> Are you aware of anything that could cause the menu navigation to become so slow (as I describe earlier)?



No. Is is with all menu actions in the Setup menu and in the Video Source Adjust menu or only when trying to get into a specific Video Output configuration? It could be Anthem has made a change so that it is switching to that Video Output configuration when you go to it -- which would involve a new HDMI handshake if you are using HDMI. A new handshake would take a couple of seconds.


I don't use more than Video Configuration 1 myself so I wouldn't have seen that.


Are you doing this with the regular Anthem remote or with a programmable remote? If using a programmable remote, try the regular Anthem remote and see if it does the same thing. If not, then your program for the programmable remote needs to be adjusted.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

So far I have found not one case where Repeater = YES is either necessary or beneficial.

--Bob[/quote]


Bob,

is this firmware dependent. I have 1.11e and have repeater = yes. I would like to hear sound sometime even with my pj. off.

thanks,

john


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/13799624
> 
> 
> Just contacted and they recommend using 1.31 from the website. They said 1.31c was only for special applications. He did say as you did he was almost sure it is software related. Thanks again, will post back after trying reinstall this afternoon.
> 
> Dick



Reinstalled the 1.31 3 times today and it said they were successful, however it did not fix either problem. nick was aware of the problems with the DVD inputs because of 2 different chips used, and he is working on the muting problem as well. They were on the phone and could hear what the muting and volume problems were. Will let you know when they find a solution.

Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/13800799
> 
> 
> So far I have found not one case where Repeater = YES is either necessary or beneficial.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

is this firmware dependent. I have 1.11e and have repeater = yes. I would like to hear sound sometime even with my pj. off.

thanks,

john[/quote]

Yes, the Repeater = NO option was broken for some of the test releases after the original V1.11. It certainly worked in the original V1.11 release. I forget which test releases had this broken and when the function was returned to normal operation, but it is certainly supposed to be fixed again in the V1.31 stuff that's now the current version.


Upgrade to V1.31 and you should be able to play HDMI audio even while your projector is turned off for sources where you specify HDMI Repeater = NO.

--Bob


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13782164
> 
> *SETUP menu or S-Video Problems? Please Respond!*
> 
> 
> I'm trying to collect some information on S-video problems to help Anthem sort out the problem I'm having with my new video board and the V1.31c firmware.
> 
> 
> There are apparently 2, and quite possibly 3, distinct problems here:
> 
> 
> 1) Setup menu doesn't appear on screen AT ALL immediately after a V1.31 firmware install. This is apparently an installer problem. Some small fraction of installs leave something improperly initialized. Thus simply doing a re-install may cure the problem. If the Setup menu appears the first time you try after the V1.31 install you are good to go -- it won't fail later. If it DOESN'T appear (at all!) after a firmware install then you have the problem. It won't magically start to appear later. As stated, a re-install of the current firmware may fix this for you. Anthem believes they already have a fix for this (still being confirmed), so future firmware releases should not have this issue.
> 
> 
> 2) S-video displays -- including the Setup menu itself (which is implemented as an internally generated S-video source) and all other video passed through the scaler from any S-video input source -- becomes unstable over time. Symptoms include loss of color in the image, loss of vertical sync, some interference, wavy distortion of the image, and, eventually, total inability to get any S-video imagery through the scaler. Think of what happens to an old broadcast TV signal as the antenna starts losing the signal. From first appearance of the partial problem to full loss of visibility usually takes weeks -- it depends on how much time you spend viewing S-video sources altogether. The first symptom is that an initially stable S-video image becomes unstable over a period of roughly 15 to 20 minutes of viewing. As the problem progresses, the time to first see the failure shortens until you can't get a stable image at all -- and then eventually you can't get any S-video image, stable or not. This is the HARDWARE problem discussed in recent posts. The problem is due to some bad components on a particular batch of RED video boards made over roughly one production month late last spring. Anthem can tell by unit serial # whether there is any chance you have this particular hardware problem. I do not know the range of affected serial numbers. Since some people don't do much S-video viewing at all (don't spend much time in the Setup menu and have no S-video sources) it is possible that some bad boards are still out there undetected yet, but it is increasingly unlikely. The older green boards and the current red boards (from roughly July 2007) don't have this problem -- meaning no new Anthems have this problem. And not all of the red boards from that production batch have the problem either. Odds are, if you have this problem it is going to show up during your warranty period.
> 
> 
> 3) And that brings us to the third S-video issue. Since the installation of my replacement video board, and with a V1.31c install, I'm seeing interference lines and vertical instability in the SETUP menu and in my S-video sources. Now the red video board just installed is not supposed to have the hardware problem, and the Setup menu is not completely gone, so this is apparently a NEW S-video issue.
> 
> 
> What we want to know is who else is seeing ISSUE #3. If you are seeing issues #1 or #2 I don't need you to post here.
> 
> 
> What I am seeing as ISSUE #3 is that the S-video image is visible, but it randomly judders a bit up and down as if it is not maintaining proper vertical sync. In addition, bright interference lines appear across the image at random times. These are not the general waviness of the image as in issue #2, but rather sharp near-white lines.
> 
> 
> Initially the interference appears as white horizontal lines at roughly 4 to 6 locations vertically with similar DIAGONAL lines joining the right end of a lower line to the left end of the line above it.
> 
> 
> But over time, as you continue to watch an S-video source, THE PROBLEM STARTS TO RECEDE! The first indication of this is that the diagonal interference lines disappear leaving only the horizontal lines at random locations. Then the horizontal lines start to disappear and the vertical stability also improves. Over time the S-video might even become completely stable vertically and with no interference lines -- i.e., it is working right. Or it may be nearly right with just an infrequent vertical glitch usually accompanied by 1 or 2 horizontal interference lines.
> 
> 
> ETA: However, if you STOP viewing S-video continuously, whether or not you leave the D2 turned on viewing other video sources, when you eventually go BACK to viewing S-video the problem re-appears at the initial, i.e., worst, stage. It appears to be related to something like the internal temperature of the S-video components themselves (as opposed to the overall temp of the Anthem).
> 
> 
> If you have ISSUE #3 I want to hear from you. I need to know if this is a problem that just began with your installation of V1.31. I also need to know if you have the older (green) or newer (red) video board. If you don't know which, just tell me if you got your Anthem prior to, say, February of last year or after July of last year (or in between).
> 
> 
> In my case, since the video board was changed out at the same time I went to V1.31c, we can't be sure whether it is a board problem or an installer problem. But the symptoms are distinct from Issues #1 and #2 so we think it is new.
> 
> 
> Now my recollection is that a couple of weeks back, before I went travelling, we had a few posters talking about the brand new appearance of horizontal interference lines in their Setup menu. I THINK these posters were talking about something that appeared right after they upgraded to the V1.31 firmware, but I'm not sure! These are folks I need to hear from.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help!
> 
> 
> -Bob




I have issue #3 with v1.31. There are interference lines on the main setup menu. It function fine otherwise and I don't have any other functional problems. What is sort of strange is that it didn't appear immediately after v1.31 was installed but developed after several entries/exits into the setup menu. I don't use S-video, only HDMI.


I purchased (AVM50) in 4/07.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/13801168
> 
> 
> I have issue #3 with v1.31. There are interference lines on the main setup menu. It function fine otherwise and I don't have any other functional problems. What is sort of strange is that it didn't appear immediately after v1.31 was installed but developed after several entries/exits into the setup menu. I don't use S-video, only HDMI.
> 
> 
> I purchased (AVM50) in 4/07.



Thanks for that! It's very interesting that it took a while to develop for you.


Are you also seeing what I'm seeing in that if you stay in the Setup menu for some minutes that the problem seems to gradual go away?

--Bob


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13801318
> 
> 
> Thanks for that! It's very interesting that it took a while to develop for you.
> 
> 
> Are you also seeing what I'm seeing in that if you stay in the Setup menu for some minutes that the problem seems to gradual go away?
> 
> --Bob



Weird. I just went to check it again to see if it would go away gradually and it's completely normal looking now. I tried entering/exiting several times and tried turning on/off various sources that I had on yesterday and still haven't been able to duplicate it again.


I'll report back if it recurs.


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13800287
> 
> 
> No. Is is with all menu actions in the Setup menu and in the Video Source Adjust menu or only when trying to get into a specific Video Output configuration? It could be Anthem has made a change so that it is switching to that Video Output configuration when you go to it -- which would involve a new HDMI handshake if you are using HDMI. A new handshake would take a couple of seconds.
> 
> 
> I don't use more than Video Configuration 1 myself so I wouldn't have seen that.
> 
> 
> Are you doing this with the regular Anthem remote or with a programmable remote? If using a programmable remote, try the regular Anthem remote and see if it does the same thing. If not, then your program for the programmable remote needs to be adjusted.
> 
> --Bob



I just found the solution to my problem.......believe it or not but it was as simple as the remote batteries voltage just too low to run the Anthem remote properly. All of this happened at the same time I was installing v1.31c and the ARC-1 program and I was sidetracked.


----------



## The Bogg

I've got a little "incompatibility problem" with my D2 and my JL Fathom F113 subs. I have a 6.1 setup with all active ATC speakers that take balanced xlr cables as their input. That was one reason I chose the Anthem, for it's balanced capability. The sources are Oppo 980 and PS3 via hdmi, and hdmi out to Sony Black Pearl. Power is supplied to everything by way of an Equitech 7.5Q unit which is 4-20amp circuits of balanced power. I have 4 of the F113 subs (only 2 are currently hooked up). I bought 2 Blue Jeans splitters that takes a single xlr output and split it into 2 so that all 4 of my subs can be run via the sub xlr outputs on the Anthem.


I hooked up 2 of the subs using the 2 xlr outs on the D2. There is ground loop type noise that is audible at my listening position 10 feet away (i.e. it's not subtle). Interestingly, if the hdmi is doing a handshake then the noise goes away while the handshake is going on for a second or 2. All of the equipment is going through the equitech so it's not like there is something on a different circuit connecting to the system. I don't get any noise out of the other balanced outputs into the speakers, they are essentially silent as expected. I tried plugging the subs into one of the other outputs (a speaker output instead of the sub output) but it did the same thing. I happened to have a cable which has rca on one end and xlr on the other and plugged it into the rca sub out on the Anthem and xlr input on the subs. Much better, can only hear a slight hum within a foot or so of the sub. Problem is that all the wire run through the walls is xlr. If I defeat the ground pin to the sub then the hum is also gone (even if xlr is used from Anthem to sub). My understanding is that this is not a good idea from a safety point of view. As an aside, if I plug the sub in using a 3 prong power cord and it's connected to the Anthem via xlr then I often get a fairly large "shock" when I touch the front panel of the sub. It's even occasionally caused one of the switches to toggle without me even touching the switch! At this point it is tough to know who was to blame...Anthem or JL. I remember that I had the same issue with the balanced cable from Anthem to the sub even before this room was constructed. I had just assumed it was there because it wasn't a dedicated circuit previously.


I just plugged my stereo preamp with xlr outputs - ATC SCA1 - directly into the sub via xlr cable and the hum/noise was much less than with the Anthem.


Seems to me that there is a bit of a problem connecting the D2 to the F113 sub via xlr. I have a few options:


1. get an rca to xlr adaptor/splitter and use the 2 rca sub outs on the Anthem for my 4 subs.


2. defeat the ground pin on the sub power cord and use the existing xlr cables.


Anyone experience something similar or have an opinion? I'm going to crosspost this in the JL forum and send a copy to Anthem to see what they suggest.


Sorry for the long post, I would appreciate your input.


----------



## EAnderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13802170
> 
> 
> I've got a little "incompatibility problem" with my D2 and my JL Fathom F113 subs. I have a 6.1 setup with all active ATC speakers that take balanced xlr cables as their input. That was one reason I chose the Anthem, for it's balanced capability. The sources are Oppo 980 and PS3 via hdmi, and hdmi out to Sony Black Pearl. Power is supplied to everything by way of an Equitech 7.5Q unit which is 4-20amp circuits of balanced power. I have 4 of the F113 subs (only 2 are currently hooked up). I bought 2 Blue Jeans splitters that takes a single xlr output and split it into 2 so that all 4 of my subs can be run via the sub xlr outputs on the Anthem.
> 
> 
> I hooked up 2 of the subs using the 2 xlr outs on the D2. There is ground loop type noise that is audible at my listening position 10 feet away (i.e. it's not subtle). Interestingly, if the hdmi is doing a handshake then the noise goes away while the handshake is going on for a second or 2. All of the equipment is going through the equitech so it's not like there is something on a different circuit connecting to the system. I don't get any noise out of the other balanced outputs into the speakers, they are essentially silent as expected. I tried plugging the subs into one of the other outputs (a speaker output instead of the sub output) but it did the same thing. I happened to have a cable which has rca on one end and xlr on the other and plugged it into the rca sub out on the Anthem and xlr input on the subs. Much better, can only hear a slight hum within a foot or so of the sub. Problem is that all the wire run through the walls is xlr. If I defeat the ground pin to the sub then the hum is also gone (even if xlr is used from Anthem to sub). My understanding is that this is not a good idea from a safety point of view. As an aside, if I plug the sub in using a 3 prong power cord and it's connected to the Anthem via xlr then I often get a fairly large "shock" when I touch the front panel of the sub. It's even occasionally caused one of the switches to toggle without me even touching the switch! At this point it is tough to know who was to blame...Anthem or JL. I remember that I had the same issue with the balanced cable from Anthem to the sub even before this room was constructed. I had just assumed it was there because it wasn't a dedicated circuit previously.
> 
> 
> I just plugged my stereo preamp with xlr outputs - ATC SCA1 - directly into the sub via xlr cable and the hum/noise was much less than with the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Seems to me that there is a bit of a problem connecting the D2 to the F113 sub via xlr. I have a few options:
> 
> 
> 1. get an rca to xlr adaptor/splitter and use the 2 rca sub outs on the Anthem for my 4 subs.
> 
> 
> 2. defeat the ground pin on the sub power cord and use the existing xlr cables.
> 
> 
> Anyone experience something similar or have an opinion? I'm going to crosspost this in the JL forum and send a copy to Anthem to see what they suggest.
> 
> 
> Sorry for the long post, I would appreciate your input.




I guess I'd start by unpluging all the inputs one at a time in order until the noise stops. If it stops, plug each cable back in one at a time untill the noise resumes. This should help weed out the problem cable as it sounds like a simple ground hum or a bad cable somewhere in the mix. I've ran into ground hums even on the XLR outputs, my issues were with the Time Warner cable box and a difference in ground in comparison to the household ground. I know that Jenson makes a ground isolator. Do not defeat the ground prong on power cord, like a cheater plug or something like it.


----------



## rajman

Bob, here is an update of the glitch that you have been helping me with. With regards to the size of the black bars on initial power up it is not very large...about 1-1 1/2" all the way around the picture. Not only is it present when playing the DVD, it is also present when my DVD is displaying its boot up screen. If I toggle between auto and the custom settings in the crop menu the DVD picture and the boot up screen will fill the screen. Out of curiosity to see if this glitch was input specific I switched to my satellite feed of an HD signal inputting over component to another input on the AVM. The 16:9 picture was fully filing the screen with no black bars. I went into the crop menu for the satellite input and deliberately distorted the picture with the vertical size. I then switched to the DVD input (which I had previously resized with the crop menu) and found that the black bars were back and could again be removed with a toggle between the auto hdmi (or even selection of the 16:9 or 4:3 input) and back to the custom setting. When I switched back to the satellite input (even without an intervening power cycle) the picture was normal and fully filling the screen...not distorted as I had left it. If I went to the crop menu for this input and toggled as before the image would immediately distort to what I had initially left.

So it would seem that a power cycle is not required for this "menu reset" and that even switching inputs causes it. However, when I switch between the vertically stretched input from the DVD and the normal input which I had previously described there is no reset...I wonder if it is because they are both mapped to the same input to the scaler where the satellite has another input.

I then tried your thought about reloading ver 1.31 firmware but the problem remains. The curious thing is that you had suggested that I store the video editor settings so that I could email them to anthem so I tried to do that just before I reloaded the firmware update. The computer, however, could not connect to the unit for the video editor even after several attempts of powering the unit on and off but it connected easily with the updater program with no difficulty so I was unable to retrieve/reload any of my video settings but found that they survived the update process nevertheless. I am at a loss to explain why one program could connect but the other could not...could this be connected with the glitch. Regardless, I will contact anthem and let you know haow things turned out. Thanks again for your interest and assistance.


----------



## The Bogg

Good advice EA. Usually the cablebox is the culprit but I haven't even added it to the mix yet. It's either the Oppo or the PS3 but somehow I think it's the Anthem because the same issue was present last year before I even had the Oppo, PS3 or the video board in the Anthem (was originally a D1). I'll try unplugging and see...


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13802360
> 
> 
> Good advice EA. Usually the cablebox is the culprit but I haven't even added it to the mix yet. It's either the Oppo or the PS3 but somehow I think it's the Anthem because the same issue was present last year before I even had the Oppo, PS3 or the video board in the Anthem (was originally a D1). I'll try unplugging and see...



What kind of XLR cable are you using? I use FOIL type insulated cable by Belden and terminated via Neutrik connectors. They reduce RF and hum by 20dB compared with ordinary shielded rubber cased XLR cables.


----------



## The Bogg

I just tried something. If I turn on the anthem and the sub with the anthem set to a dvd input but leave the input off then the hum is not loud. As soon as I turn on the dvd player then the hum gets louder. Same for both the Oppo and the PS3 via hdmi. The hum pauses for a second when the hdmi link is being re-established. Weird.


I'm using Blue Jeans Cable for pretty well everything, except for the Transparent cable going to my main speakers. I believe Blue Jeans uses Belden with neutrik connectors.


----------



## slots1

Finally got the ARC-1 software. The salesman/tech brought it over and loaded it . He did not follow the instructions about turning off from the back and saving settings.

But, everything seemed to load correctly, including the ARC-1 software.

The display says 1.31c version. The graphs look great.

How can I really tell that the ARC uploaded properly? It sounds better, but where do I look?

And it seemed to work right away. I did the sweep from all 8 chairs.

I was impressed that the mike and base for it were upscale.

Gerry


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13802609
> 
> 
> I just tried something. If I turn on the anthem and the sub with the anthem set to a dvd input but leave the input off then the hum is not loud. As soon as I turn on the dvd player then the hum gets louder. Same for both the Oppo and the PS3 via hdmi. The hum pauses for a second when the hdmi link is being re-established. Weird.
> 
> 
> I'm using Blue Jeans Cable for pretty well everything, except for the Transparent cable going to my main speakers. I believe Blue Jeans uses Belden with neutrik connectors.



I am following this closely. I am having a simiilar issue with my new sub. I previously was using a Martin Logan Depth i connected to the D2 w/unbalanced cable (no hum) but now am using a Paradigm Signature Servo w/XLR (noticeable hum from 12 ft). If I switch to the RCA cable, the hum is reduced but not gone. All of my equipment is hooked up to a Furman Reference IT 20i.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/13801655
> 
> 
> I just found the solution to my problem.......believe it or not but it was as simple as the remote batteries voltage just too low to run the Anthem remote properly. All of this happened at the same time I was installing v1.31c and the ARC-1 program and I was sidetracked.



Ah yes, when in doubt, change the batteries!


(grin!)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13802170
> 
> 
> I've got a little "incompatibility problem" with my D2 and my JL Fathom F113 subs. I have a 6.1 setup with all active ATC speakers that take balanced xlr cables as their input. That was one reason I chose the Anthem, for it's balanced capability. The sources are Oppo 980 and PS3 via hdmi, and hdmi out to Sony Black Pearl. Power is supplied to everything by way of an Equitech 7.5Q unit which is 4-20amp circuits of balanced power. I have 4 of the F113 subs (only 2 are currently hooked up). I bought 2 Blue Jeans splitters that takes a single xlr output and split it into 2 so that all 4 of my subs can be run via the sub xlr outputs on the Anthem.
> 
> 
> I hooked up 2 of the subs using the 2 xlr outs on the D2. There is ground loop type noise that is audible at my listening position 10 feet away (i.e. it's not subtle). Interestingly, if the hdmi is doing a handshake then the noise goes away while the handshake is going on for a second or 2. All of the equipment is going through the equitech so it's not like there is something on a different circuit connecting to the system. I don't get any noise out of the other balanced outputs into the speakers, they are essentially silent as expected. I tried plugging the subs into one of the other outputs (a speaker output instead of the sub output) but it did the same thing. I happened to have a cable which has rca on one end and xlr on the other and plugged it into the rca sub out on the Anthem and xlr input on the subs. Much better, can only hear a slight hum within a foot or so of the sub. Problem is that all the wire run through the walls is xlr. If I defeat the ground pin to the sub then the hum is also gone (even if xlr is used from Anthem to sub). My understanding is that this is not a good idea from a safety point of view. As an aside, if I plug the sub in using a 3 prong power cord and it's connected to the Anthem via xlr then I often get a fairly large "shock" when I touch the front panel of the sub. It's even occasionally caused one of the switches to toggle without me even touching the switch! At this point it is tough to know who was to blame...Anthem or JL. I remember that I had the same issue with the balanced cable from Anthem to the sub even before this room was constructed. I had just assumed it was there because it wasn't a dedicated circuit previously.
> 
> 
> I just plugged my stereo preamp with xlr outputs - ATC SCA1 - directly into the sub via xlr cable and the hum/noise was much less than with the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Seems to me that there is a bit of a problem connecting the D2 to the F113 sub via xlr. I have a few options:
> 
> 
> 1. get an rca to xlr adaptor/splitter and use the 2 rca sub outs on the Anthem for my 4 subs.
> 
> 
> 2. defeat the ground pin on the sub power cord and use the existing xlr cables.
> 
> 
> Anyone experience something similar or have an opinion? I'm going to crosspost this in the JL forum and send a copy to Anthem to see what they suggest.
> 
> 
> Sorry for the long post, I would appreciate your input.



As EAnderson says, the first thing to try is to eliminate the ground interference power at the point where it is ENTERING your home theater system.


The most common cause is power coming in along the ground shield of the coax delivering cable TV or satellite TV. Try disconnecting that feed wire first and see if your hum goes away. If it does, there are inexpensive "ground blocker" gadgets that can isolate that stuff from your system.


If that doesn't do it. Try disconnecting EVERYTHING from the Anthem except for its power cord and the connection to the subwoofers. Presumably you will have no ground loop hum at this point. Now reconnect items one at a time until you find the source of the problem. Remember that ground loop power can travel from device to device over the ground shields of the connecting wires. So just because you connect device A and get hum doesn't mean device A is at fault. The culprit may be device B that has an electrical connection to device A.


Optical cable connections are also good for testing since they have no electrical path.


If it isn't your cable or satellite feed, my next guess would be it is your power amps, so don't forget to disconnect the outputs from the D2 to your power amps and include them in your one at a time reconnection test.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rajman* /forum/post/13802346
> 
> 
> Bob, here is an update of the glitch that you have been helping me with. With regards to the size of the black bars on initial power up it is not very large...about 1-1 1/2" all the way around the picture. Not only is it present when playing the DVD, it is also present when my DVD is displaying its boot up screen. If I toggle between auto and the custom settings in the crop menu the DVD picture and the boot up screen will fill the screen. Out of curiosity to see if this glitch was input specific I switched to my satellite feed of an HD signal inputting over component to another input on the AVM. The 16:9 picture was fully filing the screen with no black bars. I went into the crop menu for the satellite input and deliberately distorted the picture with the vertical size. I then switched to the DVD input (which I had previously resized with the crop menu) and found that the black bars were back and could again be removed with a toggle between the auto hdmi (or even selection of the 16:9 or 4:3 input) and back to the custom setting. When I switched back to the satellite input (even without an intervening power cycle) the picture was normal and fully filling the screen...not distorted as I had left it. If I went to the crop menu for this input and toggled as before the image would immediately distort to what I had initially left.
> 
> So it would seem that a power cycle is not required for this "menu reset" and that even switching inputs causes it. However, when I switch between the vertically stretched input from the DVD and the normal input which I had previously described there is no reset...I wonder if it is because they are both mapped to the same input to the scaler where the satellite has another input.
> 
> I then tried your thought about reloading ver 1.31 firmware but the problem remains. The curious thing is that you had suggested that I store the video editor settings so that I could email them to anthem so I tried to do that just before I reloaded the firmware update. The computer, however, could not connect to the unit for the video editor even after several attempts of powering the unit on and off but it connected easily with the updater program with no difficulty so I was unable to retrieve/reload any of my video settings but found that they survived the update process nevertheless. I am at a loss to explain why one program could connect but the other could not...could this be connected with the glitch. Regardless, I will contact anthem and let you know haow things turned out. Thanks again for your interest and assistance.



I'm afraid it sounds like this is a hardware problem with your video board, but by all means give Anthem a chance to diagnose this with you.


The firmware updater and the Live Video Settings Editor are talking to different portions of the video board so that could explain the problem, but it could also be that your serial connection has something unusual about it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/13803224
> 
> 
> Finally got the ARC-1 software. The salesman/tech brought it over and loaded it . He did not follow the instructions about turning off from the back and saving settings.
> 
> But, everything seemed to load correctly, including the ARC-1 software.
> 
> The display says 1.31c version. The graphs look great.
> 
> How can I really tell that the ARC uploaded properly? It sounds better, but where do I look?
> 
> And it seemed to work right away. I did the sweep from all 8 chairs.
> 
> I was impressed that the mike and base for it were upscale.
> 
> Gerry



If it is sounding good the odds are the Upload worked OK. The quickest thing to check is to go into the Setup menu and check the cross over settings for the Movie and Music speaker configuration. Compare those to the values shown in the Targets window of the ARC application. I.e., start the ARC application in Advanced mode, Open the saved file with your measurements and calculated results, and look at the Targets window.


In addition, check the Setup menu for the Speaker Calibration volume levels that ARC uploaded and see if they make sense to you.


An error in either the Uploaded crossover values or speaker level values definitely shows you had a faulty Upload. However there's no way to verify the rest of the ARC upload results except by listening.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13802609
> 
> 
> I just tried something. If I turn on the anthem and the sub with the anthem set to a dvd input but leave the input off then the hum is not loud. As soon as I turn on the dvd player then the hum gets louder. Same for both the Oppo and the PS3 via hdmi. The hum pauses for a second when the hdmi link is being re-established. Weird.
> 
> 
> I'm using Blue Jeans Cable for pretty well everything, except for the Transparent cable going to my main speakers. I believe Blue Jeans uses Belden with neutrik connectors.



I suspect your power amps may be the source of your ground loop interference since you don't have a cable hookup.


The hdmi handshake mutes the audio and may break the electrical signal path for the ground loop.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/13803301
> 
> 
> I am following this closely. I am having a simiilar issue with my new sub. I previously was using a Martin Logan Depth i connected to the D2 w/unbalanced cable (no hum) but now am using a Paradigm Signature Servo w/XLR (noticeable hum from 12 ft). If I switch to the RCA cable, the hum is reduced but not gone. All of my equipment is hooked up to a Furman Reference IT 20i.



The hum is likely reduced only because RCA and XLR connections run at a built-in 6dB volume difference (whereas the interference voltage is likely unchanged).


Again, the best way to approach this stuff is to disconnect everything and then reconnect things slowly and logically until you isolate the source of the interference power. Remember that the interference can travel through multiple devices (via the ground shields of the cabling) before it gets to your subwoofer where you hear it -- mainly because it is mostly made up of 60Hz power line garbage which you subwoofer is best suited to turn into sound.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Bob

As usual thank you. All the crossovers that were in the target window are the ones setup in the Anthem cross over settings. I also think the speaker calib volume levels look ok.


Gads, something worked the first time even without my guy following absolute instructions.

By the way I waited to use the ARC-1 until my new Thiel 3.7s arrived and were broken in. They sound amazing.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13803426
> 
> 
> As EAnderson says, the first thing to try is to eliminate the ground interference power at the point where it is ENTERING your home theater system.
> 
> 
> The most common cause is power coming in along the ground shield of the coax delivering cable TV or satellite TV. Try disconnecting that feed wire first and see if your hum goes away. If it does, there are inexpensive "ground blocker" gadgets that can isolate that stuff from your system.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't do it. Try disconnecting EVERYTHING from the Anthem except for its power cord and the connection to the subwoofers. Presumably you will have no ground loop hum at this point. Now reconnect items one at a time until you find the source of the problem. Remember that ground loop power can travel from device to device over the ground shields of the connecting wires. So just because you connect device A and get hum doesn't mean device A is at fault. The culprit may be device B that has an electrical connection to device A.
> 
> 
> Optical cable connections are also good for testing since they have no electrical path.
> 
> 
> If it isn't your cable or satellite feed, my next guess would be it is your power amps, so don't forget to disconnect the outputs from the D2 to your power amps and include them in your one at a time reconnection test.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. This is the advice Equitech also gives on their website. I guess after my bass fest last night I forgot the basics - unplug everything!










I don't yet have cable integrated into the system so that's not the cause. My speakers all have the amps on the back of them (they are active). They all plug into the Equitech which has what looks like "star grounding".


I'll report back with my results since the info might be useful to others.


thanks again everyone. Once again...great forum thread!


----------



## zzzzdoc

Has the S-Video issue with Velodyne subwoofers been corrected in 1.31? I haven't tried it yet, but need to run the sub room correction.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/13804387
> 
> 
> Has the S-Video issue with Velodyne subwoofers been corrected in 1.31? I haven't tried it yet, but need to run the sub room correction.



It has not. Apparently the Velodyne is only outputting one of the 2 interlaced fields for each frame of video and the Anthem is having trouble locking on to that to pass it to the scaler. I know that Anthem is aware of this problem (whether it is their problem or Velodyne's) but it has not yet been a priority for them to fix. Perhaps now that ARC is shipping they can get to it.


As a workaround you can run the S-video from the Velodyne directly to your display, or, as I have done, run the S-video from the Velodyne to the Anthem (just as if there were no problem) and run an additional S-video from the Anthem's S-video output to your display. Then select that input on the Anthem when using the Velodyne and also temporarily switch your display to use its S-video input. This will send the Velodyne S-video "pass through" to your display, and that works. And when Anthem DOES fix the scaler input problem for the Velodyne S-video you won't have to re-wire things -- just stop using that extra S-video feed from the Anthem output to the display.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/13803920
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> As usual thank you. All the crossovers that were in the target window are the ones setup in the Anthem cross over settings. I also think the speaker calib volume levels look ok.
> 
> 
> Gads, something worked the first time even without my guy following absolute instructions.
> 
> By the way I waited to use the ARC-1 until my new Thiel 3.7s arrived and were broken in. They sound amazing.



The setting saving and restoring stuff (using Live Video Settings Editor on the PC) is intended to get your Video Source Adjust menu settings across the upgrade from 1.2x or earlier firmware to 1.31. The format of those changed and so those settings are set to factory defaults on such a firmware install.


If you made no changes in the Video Source Adjust menu then the factory defaults are fine. Once you are on V1.3x firmware, those Video Source Adjust menu settings should survive future V1.3x firmware installs without you having to specially save and restore them yourself.


Anyway, just go through your Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu stuff to verify all is as you want it. You can manually correct anything that needs to be corrected. And if it's all working as it is now, then you are fine.

--Bob


----------



## Jim E.

A friend of mine sent me this interesting link about streaming blu-ray movies to your PS3 using WMP11.

http://boardsus.playstation.com/play...hread.id=92650 


Since the PS3 is an excellent match for the Anthem I thought this might interest some of you.


Cheers,

Jim


----------



## tarichar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13802170
> 
> 
> I've got a little "incompatibility problem" with my D2 and my JL Fathom F113 subs. I have a 6.1 setup with all active ATC speakers that take balanced xlr cables as their input. That was one reason I chose the Anthem, for it's balanced capability. The sources are Oppo 980 and PS3 via hdmi, and hdmi out to Sony Black Pearl. Power is supplied to everything by way of an Equitech 7.5Q unit which is 4-20amp circuits of balanced power. I have 4 of the F113 subs (only 2 are currently hooked up). I bought 2 Blue Jeans splitters that takes a single xlr output and split it into 2 so that all 4 of my subs can be run via the sub xlr outputs on the Anthem.
> 
> 
> I hooked up 2 of the subs using the 2 xlr outs on the D2. There is ground loop type noise that is audible at my listening position 10 feet away (i.e. it's not subtle). Interestingly, if the hdmi is doing a handshake then the noise goes away while the handshake is going on for a second or 2. All of the equipment is going through the equitech so it's not like there is something on a different circuit connecting to the system. I don't get any noise out of the other balanced outputs into the speakers, they are essentially silent as expected. I tried plugging the subs into one of the other outputs (a speaker output instead of the sub output) but it did the same thing. I happened to have a cable which has rca on one end and xlr on the other and plugged it into the rca sub out on the Anthem and xlr input on the subs. Much better, can only hear a slight hum within a foot or so of the sub. Problem is that all the wire run through the walls is xlr. If I defeat the ground pin to the sub then the hum is also gone (even if xlr is used from Anthem to sub). My understanding is that this is not a good idea from a safety point of view. As an aside, if I plug the sub in using a 3 prong power cord and it's connected to the Anthem via xlr then I often get a fairly large "shock" when I touch the front panel of the sub. It's even occasionally caused one of the switches to toggle without me even touching the switch! At this point it is tough to know who was to blame...Anthem or JL. I remember that I had the same issue with the balanced cable from Anthem to the sub even before this room was constructed. I had just assumed it was there because it wasn't a dedicated circuit previously.
> 
> 
> I just plugged my stereo preamp with xlr outputs - ATC SCA1 - directly into the sub via xlr cable and the hum/noise was much less than with the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Seems to me that there is a bit of a problem connecting the D2 to the F113 sub via xlr. I have a few options:
> 
> 
> 1. get an rca to xlr adaptor/splitter and use the 2 rca sub outs on the Anthem for my 4 subs.
> 
> 
> 2. defeat the ground pin on the sub power cord and use the existing xlr cables.
> 
> 
> Anyone experience something similar or have an opinion? I'm going to crosspost this in the JL forum and send a copy to Anthem to see what they suggest.
> 
> 
> Sorry for the long post, I would appreciate your input.




Bogg,


I had this same issue. The problem is that the video circuitry of the anthem interferes with the balanced outputs on the anthem. When these are connected to the JL thru the balanced inputs, the sub hums.


You can determine which video input on the anthem is causing a problem by doing the following: Turn on your anthem and subs so that you hear the hum. Start unpluging the video inputs to the anthem to determine when the hum stops. Start with the component inputs and then the HDMI. You will find the culprit.


You now have 2 choices, change the video input on the anthem to a different type, i.e. component to HDMI, RCA to S video, etc. The other is to run a single ended RCA cable to your subs and put lift the ground on the sub using the switch on the back.


And don't waste your time trying power conditioners, new video cables, new balanced audio cables or power conditioners. This won't help. It is not a ground loop power issue and it is not a ground loop issue from the cable box. The only things that will fix the problem are unplugging the offending Video cable, or switching to RCA's and ungrounding the JL.


Troy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tarichar* /forum/post/13808510
> 
> 
> Bogg,
> 
> 
> I had this same issue. The problem is that the video circuitry of the anthem interferes with the balanced outputs on the anthem. When these are connected to the JL thru the balanced inputs, the sub hums.
> 
> 
> You can determine which video input on the anthem is causing a problem by doing the following: Turn on your anthem and subs so that you hear the hum. Start unpluging the video inputs to the anthem to determine when the hum stops. Start with the component inputs and then the HDMI. You will find the culprit.
> 
> 
> You now have 2 choices, change the video input on the anthem to a different type, i.e. component to HDMI, RCA to S video, etc. The other is to run a single ended RCA cable to your subs and put lift the ground on the sub using the switch on the back.
> 
> 
> And don't waste your time trying power conditioners, new video cables, new balanced audio cables or power conditioners. This won't help. It is not a ground loop power issue and it is not a ground loop issue from the cable box. The only things that will fix the problem are unplugging the offending Video cable, or switching to RCA's and ungrounding the JL.
> 
> 
> Troy



Troy, have you been in touch with Anthem tech support on what you found out? It is certainly not correct for the Anthem's video circuit to cause such interference on its XLR sub outputs.


How did you decide it was the Anthem generating the interference as opposed to the particular input video source? I would have thought that if the hum goes away when you disconnect a particular video input source, then the natural diagnosis would be that this particular video source either is generating the interference on its video output or that it is passing on the interference which has entered it from some other device connected to it.

--Bob


----------



## tarichar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13809363
> 
> 
> Troy, have you been in touch with Anthem tech support on what you found out? It is certainly not correct for the Anthem's video circuit to cause such interference on its XLR sub outputs.
> 
> 
> How did you decide it was the Anthem generating the interference as opposed to the particular input video source? I would have thought that if the hum goes away when you disconnect a particular video input source, then the natural diagnosis would be that this particular video source either is generating the interference on its video output or that it is passing on the interference which has entered it from some other device connected to it.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


I don't want to say it is strictly the fault of the Anthem as the JL sub seems to share some blame in this. I have 3 subs, a JL F113, and 2 SVS's and previously a Velodine DD12. The JL was the only problem with the hum.


In my case, I spent over a month working out the details of where this hum was originating and initially thought it was my cable box. After disconnecting all my components and reconnecting them one by one, I could reproduce the hum by connecting any device into component 3 or 4. Video cables are notorious for producing hum in audio cables, and I am not talking about the coax from the cable company that induces a different hum due to different ground potentials.


I then tried replacing the different component cables with different brands thinking that better sheilding may fix the problem. I used transparent reference, cardas, better cables, and they all induced hum. I then tried switching power cords and went thru Cardas, Synergistic, Silver Audio, Shunyata. I also tried different combinations of power conditioers, PS Audio, Running Springs Audio, Monster, none of which worked.


I ultimately decided to use RCA outs from the Anthem with the ground switch lifted on the JL sub and this solved my problem.


What I think is going on is that because the Anthem is not grounded at the power line, when using the balanced outputs, the ground pin is not truly grounded. Noise induced by the video board right above the balanced outputs is unable to be cancelled, and this is passed onto the JL sub. If you remember, when the JL came out, there were a lot of initial complaints of "hum" from the sub. I think the balanced inputs on the JL may not be truly balanced or tied to ground correctly which is why this combination of components causes a hum. I thought that maybe the pin assignments on the XLR for the anthem vs. the JL might be different as well due as XLR's on pro equipment are sometimes different from home audio stuff but I was too lazy to due the research on this once I got my hum to go away.


troy


----------



## Don O’Brien

The pin out for the XLRs according to both user's manuals

Fathom: Page 18

Pin1 Shield (Ground)

Pin2 +

Pin3 Negative


D2 (pg 78 of the 1.1 manual)

Pin1 Ground

Pin2 +

Pin3 Negative


If the pin designations are correct you have no potential pin 1 problems.


I can assure you that there is no inherent problems with the D2 with subwoofers with balanced inputs. I have had it connected to 3 Thiel subs via xlr without humming. I also have set it up with Martin Logan and Rel via XLR without any humming problems.


Test Bed included 11 sources including 3 sat receivers and a cable DVR.


If you want to maintain the XLRs, jensen makes a quality XLR isloation transformer.


Do Pin1 and Pin 3 have continuity on the XLR input jack have continuity?


Does the master/slave switch have any impact on the noise.


----------



## tarichar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Don O'Brien* /forum/post/13809754
> 
> 
> The pin out for the XLRs according to both user's manuals
> 
> Fathom: Page 18
> 
> Pin1 Shield (Ground)
> 
> Pin2 +
> 
> Pin3 Negative
> 
> 
> D2 (pg 78 of the 1.1 manual)
> 
> Pin1 Ground
> 
> Pin2 +
> 
> Pin3 Negative
> 
> 
> If the pin designations are correct you have no potential pin 1 problems.
> 
> 
> I can assure you that there is no inherent problems with the D2 with subwoofers with balanced inputs. I have had it connected to 3 Thiel subs via xlr without humming. I also have set it up with Martin Logan and Rel via XLR without any humming problems.
> 
> 
> Test Bed included 11 sources including 3 sat receivers and a cable DVR.
> 
> 
> If you want to maintain the XLRs, jensen makes a quality XLR isloation transformer.
> 
> 
> Do Pin1 and Pin 3 have continuity on the XLR input jack have continuity?
> 
> 
> Does the master/slave switch have any impact on the noise.



To answer your questions:


I don't doubt that you have not had problems with the Thiel subs. I have tried 4 subs and the only problem I've had was with the JL f113. I think this is a problem with the JL and the anthem. I have several sources as well and they have not been a problem.


Thanks for the pin assignments. Like I said, once I figured out how to fix the hum I got lazy and forgot about it. The Bogg's problem replicated my own and I wanted to save him time and frustration on how to fix it.


The Master/slave switch has no impact on the noise, but the ground lift switch does but only when using the RCA input. The ground lift doesn't work for the balanced inputs.


I should also mention that I don't have a hum if I disconnect my video component inputs on the anthem, even if I leave the audio connections from my video sources attached. It seems to occur with component input 3 and 4 only with the JL sub.


troy


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Troy,

The ground potential difference you bring up could be at the root of the problem. The video board itself is unlikely to have an 60Hz signals (or anything close). But the connection via those two specific Component jacks might expose the ground potential difference from those input sources I suppose.


Still, I would think that stuff would be pretty well isolated so that you shouldn't see anything on the XLR sub outputs.


Anthem's engineers would probably be interested in this one.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I have on occasion thanked Bob for his help and advice, but after his last 3/4 of a page response to my three line question, I wanted to say that it is rare to find someone who so thoroughly answers all of our questions and sometimes mere minutes after the post. Anthem should be thankful for Bob's diversion of so many tech support calls away from them. There aren't many threads that enjoy this kind of support.

John


----------



## The Bogg

Agree Jayray.


I've just spent a couple of hours downstairs and thought I'd chime in in response to Troy's comments. First of all, thanks Troy for your input.


If I leave everything connected but remove the PS3 out of the loop the noise is gone even if I have the Oppo hooked up via hdmi to the Anthem. Thus, I have managed to get a setup using the Anthem balanced xlr output to the Fathoms without noise. I haven't hooked up the projector yet but at least this points to the fact that the Anthem is not necessarily the problem.


Got a nice response back from Nick at Anthem with some suggestions mirroring Bob and Eandersons suggestions. He gave me a good link to a paper on the Rane website. I found a different article on the Jensen website that was a little easier to understand. I'm going to go now and try more combinations. I wouldn't categorically blame either the Anthem or the JL. It's clearly an interaction problem based on multiple components and different ground potentials.


----------



## jayray

Now for another question. Which program do I use from the 1.31 download, to save my settings. there used to be a diff program for doing this and it isn't in the folder. I am a bit leary of doing the upgrade given I don't seem to have any problems mentioned in this thread except for not hearing sound with my pj off. But if I do try, I need to know how to save the settings or maybe I'll just write them down manually










John


----------



## ASW

Tonight my Tivo started having real issues with the D2 when switching from any HDTV format to 480i, either on live TV or watching a recorded program. In many cases, the D2 seems not to be able to lock on to the 480i signal at all and I get a flashing black screen. This happens both with HDMI and component connections between the Tivo and the D2. Setting the Tivo to 1080i from native fixes the issue (and, maybe surprisingly, with little or no difference in video quality).


Has anyone else had this issue? I have had the d2/Tivo S3 combination for over a year and, while there has been some sync-up time when I switch between formats, I have not seen the D2 be completely unable to lock on to a 480i signal before.


I am trying rebooting the Tivo to see if that helps.


Any suggestions?


----------



## scottshd

on the subject of sub woofer hum. I just got a servo 15 hooked up xlr from d-2 and it also hums. unhook xlr and it still hums just being plugged in with the power cord. have the servo-15 set to auto on and when it powers on the hum stops. tried pluging it in on differant circuits hums on all of them. any ideas?


----------



## tarichar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/13810111
> 
> 
> I have on occasion thanked Bob for his help and advice, but after his last 3/4 of a page response to my three line question, I wanted to say that it is rare to find someone who so thoroughly answers all of our questions and sometimes mere minutes after the post. Anthem should be thankful for Bob's diversion of so many tech support calls away from them. There aren't many threads that enjoy this kind of support.
> 
> John



I really don't post much but I have pretty much read thru this thread from the beginning and Bob has been so helpful that he really is an asset to all of us on the AVS forum. He deserves all of our praise.


Thanks Bob.










And I think I'm done with posting for now as I've reached my quota for 2008.


troy


----------



## tarichar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottshd* /forum/post/13810831
> 
> 
> on the subject of sub woofer hum. I just got a servo 15 hooked up xlr from d-2 and it also hums. unhook xlr and it still hums just being plugged in with the power cord. have the servo-15 set to auto on and when it powers on the hum stops. tried pluging it in on differant circuits hums on all of them. any ideas?



If you get a hum even when disconnected from any input, then it sounds like you may have a little DC on the powerline that causes the transformer in the sub to polarize a little and cause hum.


You can try a PS audio humbuster http://www.psaudio.com/products/upchbmoreinfo.asp 


or the ebtech hum x which is much cheaper: http://www.ebtechaudio.com/humxdes.html 


troy


----------



## The Bogg

Aargh my head hurts. Seems like there is a problem with hum if any 2 out of the 3 hdmi connections are made. For example, if just the Oppo is connected to the D2 then it's fine. If the Oppo and the projector are connected via hdmi then there is hum. If the projector alone is connected to the D2 via hdmi it's mostly fine. If the PS3 is connected alone to the D2 via hdmi there is actually a bit of hum suggesting it is also a problem.


The solution is quite easy, just depends on what one is willing to do. I'm probably just going to use adaptors to use my existing in-wall xlr cable. If anyone needs further info there is a good article on the Jensen website and on the Rane website. Happy to answer any questions my limited knowledge might help with since I've spent a lot of time with this issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/13810602
> 
> 
> Now for another question. Which program do I use from the 1.31 download, to save my settings. there used to be a diff program for doing this and it isn't in the folder. I am a bit leary of doing the upgrade given I don't seem to have any problems mentioned in this thread except for not hearing sound with my pj off. But if I do try, I need to know how to save the settings or maybe I'll just write them down manually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



You can use Live Video Settings Editor (V1.20 or later) to save your Video Source Adjust menu settings.


The different program you are referring to, Setup Editor, does not yet exist in a version compatible with the latest firmware. However, if you save your Setup menu settings via Setup / Save and Load Settings / Save User Settings, those will survive the firmware upgrade. For good measure you can save a second copy of the same thing in Save Installer Settings.


So do a Save User Settings and use Live Video Settings Editor to save a copy of your Video Source Adjust menu settings to the PC. Then Reload Factory Defaults in the Anthem and do the firmware upgrade. When that's done you can Reload User Settings in the Setup menu and Open and Load your saved Video Source Adjust menu settings from the PC using Live Video Settings Editor.


When you have that stuff loaded up, and also any ARC results you have ready for upload, do a NEW Save User Settings (and for good measure Save Installer Settings) to stash that stuff in the Anthem memories.


(Normally the Video Source Adjust settings last saved in User or Installer settings will also survive a firmware install. But when upgrading to V1.3x from something earlier you need to go through the PC file save and restore for those since the internal format changed.)


Personally, I also recommend taking the hour to write down all your settings "just in case". At the very least, this will refresh your memory as to what you have set up to start with, and can ease your mind that the result of all the restore stuff above actually did what it was supposed to do.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

checked the anthem site and they only had ver. 1.12 for Live Video Settings. Do you know where I can get the 1.20 v.?

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/13812816
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> checked the anthem site and they only had ver. 1.12 for Live Video Settings. Do you know where I can get the 1.20 v.?
> 
> John



Send me a PM with your email address and I will send you a copy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/13812816
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> checked the anthem site and they only had ver. 1.12 for Live Video Settings. Do you know where I can get the 1.20 v.?
> 
> John



Go to the public downloads page for the D2:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


or for the AVM-50:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html 


Download and un-Zip the folder with the V1.31 firmware installer for your hardware. Live Video Settings Editor V1.20 will also be found in that folder.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The downside to ARC:


Just as better video reveals the flaws in poor movie transfers, ARC reveals the flaws in poor recordings.


I have some CDs that I like because the content is interesting, even though the actual recordings are dreadful. Unfortunately the difference between good and bad recordings played through ARC are even greater than before. I just had to pull one of these "interesting" CDs out of the player after deciding it was no longer listenable. I'll have to limit my play of it now to a lower quality audio system that better masks its flaws....

--Bob


----------



## seismo

Anthem tech support is now showing Live video settingEditor v1.30a.


Spoke to Nick (Anthem) yesterday and he was expecting ARC v1.2 to be on the site today but no luck so far.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/13816302
> 
> 
> Anthem tech support is now showing Live video settingEditor v1.30a.
> 
> 
> Spoke to Nick (Anthem) yesterday and he was expecting ARC v1.2 to be on the site today but no luck so far.



Any word on whether ARC V1.2 will require re-measurement and/or re-calculation, or can it be used with results files produced by V1.1 -- i.e., if you are not ready to re-measure just yet (and just want to do a new calculation/upload) or merely want to re-do the Upload of prior V1.1 results to see if the Upload is more reliable?

--Bob


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13816401
> 
> 
> Any word on whether ARC V1.2 will require re-measurement and/or re-calculation, or can it be used with results files produced by V1.1 -- i.e., if you are not ready to re-measure just yet (and just want to do a new calculation/upload) or merely want to re-do the Upload of prior V1.1 results to see if the Upload is more reliable?
> 
> --Bob



If I remember correctly I think he said that older files (v1.1) will be useable directly with v1.2.


----------



## jayray

Just took the plunge with firmware 1.31. Took 40 min. to get cable to recognize anthem. Took downloading a new driver for Vista. started the update and at about 90%, Blue Screen of Death. I said several bad words, and rebooted and did it again. This time it worked. Had all settings written down but followed Bob's advice and saved two sets of settings, user and installer. After loading settings OSD had diagonal lines and some mangenta mixed with the blue. Turned unit off and now it is fine. Seems resolution of OSD is higher, looks much better. All of my settings were loaded properly and the only diff I noticed was the higher volume even after calibrating the sound. Was a little nervous during the process but now it says ver. 1.31. Thanks for the help Bob.

John


----------



## scottshd

tarichar thanks for the reply and links. I don't think that will help my problem as the servo-15 sub has no ground on the power cord.


----------



## The Bogg

It looks like I've solved the ground loop/hum problem I described in recent posts. Best part was that it didn't cost anything and it didn't involve defeating any ground pins.


My Blue Jeans xlr cables are constructed properly with 2 conductors - pin 2 and pin 3. The shield is connected at both ends on pin 1. This is the best design in optimum circumstances.


Nick from Anthem sent me a link to a paper on the Rane website. Someone here also offered good advice, and another thread had some good info.


I disconnected the shield at the subwoofer end (by unsoldering the shield from pin 1). Voila, no more hum. No increase in noise in any of the other speakers. Works fine if I have ps3 on, oppo on, and projector on. I only tried it with 1 of the subs but I'm sure it will work on the others too. Theoretically there is a higher chance of picking up rfi but so far no issue.


It is a happy day. Now I can concentrate on setting things up and finally enjoying it. Thanks to those who offered advice.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/13818550
> 
> 
> It looks like I've solved the ground loop/hum problem I described in recent posts. Best part was that it didn't cost anything and it didn't involve defeating any ground pins.
> 
> 
> My Blue Jeans xlr cables are constructed properly with 2 conductors - pin 2 and pin 3. The shield is connected at both ends on pin 1. This is the best design in optimum circumstances.
> 
> 
> Nick from Anthem sent me a link to a paper on the Rane website. Someone here also offered good advice, and another thread had some good info.
> 
> 
> I disconnected the shield at the subwoofer end (by unsoldering the shield from pin 1). Voila, no more hum. No increase in noise in any of the other speakers. Works fine if I have ps3 on, oppo on, and projector on. I only tried it with 1 of the subs but I'm sure it will work on the others too. Theoretically there is a higher chance of picking up rfi but so far no issue.
> 
> 
> It is a happy day. Now I can concentrate on setting things up and finally enjoying it. Thanks to those who offered advice.



This is a very common technique in pro audio. It's called a telescoping ground shield. You'd be amazed at how often it needs to be done.


The ground shield for audio signals does NOT need to be connected at both ends to effectively shield against RF and other interference.


----------



## Milt99

Gordon, did you ever get your ARC-1 kit?


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13806694
> 
> 
> It has not. (snip) ... (Typical great explanation by Bob, how does he get the time ....)




As always, thanks Bob.


I know this has been covered before, but I'm wondering if the consensus has changed with time. Are people using the Velodyne room correction first then the ARC, or ARC first, or not using the Velodyne room correction at all and just using the ARC.


My ARC finally arrived, so I can finally start working on the acoustics of my new theater.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/13820566
> 
> 
> As always, thanks Bob.
> 
> 
> I know this has been covered before, but I'm wondering if the consensus has changed with time. Are people using the Velodyne room correction first then the ARC, or ARC first, or not using the Velodyne room correction at all and just using the ARC.
> 
> 
> My ARC finally arrived, so I can finally start working on the acoustics of my new theater.



a and c. Haven't heard anyone who ran the velo EQ after ARC.


I got the best results by using the Velo EQ to get a flat response for the sub first, but doing the Velo EQ with the sub only (not with the sub and mains per the Velo recommendation). Then ran ARC.


I had terrible results using the original Velo EQ which I believe was caused by the Velo EQ being done with the mains in parallel so the Velo was set up to "fill in" what the mains could not do. When ARC then saw the Velo-only response it set a terrible target for the sub.


Others report the best results by turning off the Velo EQ and letting ARC work with the raw sub response. For me this was somewhere in the middle.


The difference seems to be that ARC sets a target curve for your sub based on what it believes the sub's ability is from it's measurement run. If your room's natural response (or a POS sub) causes ARC to percieve a steep drop-off below 40Hz for example, it will set a target curve for the sub that is within that "capability". So you and I could have the exact same sub, but due to differences in room acoustics ARC could set widely differing target curves (and consequently widely differeing post-EQ response) for each of us.


Best to try both. And post your results, please...


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13820930
> 
> 
> a and c. Haven't heard anyone who ran the velo EQ after ARC.
> 
> 
> I got the best results by using the Velo EQ to get a flat response for the sub first, but doing the Velo EQ with the sub only (not with the sub and mains per the Velo recommendation). Then ran ARC.
> 
> 
> I had terrible results using the original Velo EQ which I believe was caused by the Velo EQ being done with the mains in parallel so the Velo was set up to "fill in" what the mains could not do. When ARC then saw the Velo-only response it set a terrible target for the sub.
> 
> 
> Others report the best results by turning off the Velo EQ and letting ARC work with the raw sub response. For me this was somewhere in the middle.
> 
> 
> The difference seems to be that ARC sets a target curve for your sub based on what it believes the sub's ability is from it's measurement run. If your room's natural response (or a POS sub) causes ARC to percieve a steep drop-off below 40Hz for example, it will set a target curve for the sub that is within that "capability". So you and I could have the exact same sub, but due to differences in room acoustics ARC could set widely differing target curves (and consequently widely differeing post-EQ response) for each of us.
> 
> 
> Best to try both. And post your results, please...



For what it's worth, I think the general recommendation (for ARC, Audyssey, etc.), is to:


1) Defeat the Velo

2) Run ARC/Audyssey/etc.

3) Fine-tune with the Velo


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13821027
> 
> 
> For what it's worth, I think the general recommendation (for ARC, Audyssey, etc.), is to:
> 
> 
> 1) Defeat the Velo
> 
> 2) Run ARC/Audyssey/etc.
> 
> 3) Fine-tune with the Velo



I'll give (3) a try and see if it improves, can't hurt.


For for my setup anyway, defeating the Velo EQ in step 1 caused ARC to set a poor target curve for the sub.


----------



## zzzzdoc

Well, if I can somehow get some free time this weekend, I'll try a few options and post the results.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13810645
> 
> 
> Tonight my Tivo started having real issues with the D2 when switching from any HDTV format to 480i, either on live TV or watching a recorded program. In many cases, the D2 seems not to be able to lock on to the 480i signal at all and I get a flashing black screen. This happens both with HDMI and component connections between the Tivo and the D2. Setting the Tivo to 1080i from native fixes the issue (and, maybe surprisingly, with little or no difference in video quality).
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue? I have had the d2/Tivo S3 combination for over a year and, while there has been some sync-up time when I switch between formats, I have not seen the D2 be completely unable to lock on to a 480i signal before.
> 
> 
> I am trying rebooting the Tivo to see if that helps.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?



Here is Nick's response -


"Since it happens regardless of HDMI vs component it sounds like something crashing in the processing due to changing input, therefore a software issue. Next thing to try would be a software fix, whenever that's available - I'll let you know."


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13823672
> 
> 
> Here is Nick's response -
> 
> 
> "Since it happens regardless of HDMI vs component it sounds like something crashing in the processing due to changing input, therefore a software issue. Next thing to try would be a software fix, whenever that's available - I'll let you know."



I have my TiVo set to output 1080i all the time to the D2.


No Problems.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13819794
> 
> 
> Gordon, did you ever get your ARC-1 kit?



No. I think I'll be the last on the planet to get mine










I escalated to Anthem, who said that no order for my serial number was ever received







They were going to check in with the NW rep.


Two days later my sales contact emailed and said it would be in... yesterday. No joy.


At this point I don't know who is telling the truth. I'm calling Definitive today.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13823718
> 
> 
> I have my TiVo set to output 1080i all the time to the D2.
> 
> 
> No Problems.



Ditto.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13823672
> 
> 
> Here is Nick's response -
> 
> 
> "Since it happens regardless of HDMI vs component it sounds like something crashing in the processing due to changing input, therefore a software issue. Next thing to try would be a software fix, whenever that's available - I'll let you know."



I've had no problems (with one exception) with my TivoHD (slightly different model) using Native output and component. (When I used HDMI, I had too much switching garbage.)


However, after I updated to 1.31 D2 firmware, I had the Tivo act weird one day - the colors were all pink and green, and nothing I could do would help. I had to reset the Tivo, turn it and the D2 off, and start up again. That fixed it.


Tivo pushes out updates to their boxes, maybe an update messed with something that communicates with the D2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13821027
> 
> 
> For what it's worth, I think the general recommendation (for ARC, Audyssey, etc.), is to:
> 
> 
> 1) Defeat the Velo
> 
> 2) Run ARC/Audyssey/etc.
> 
> 3) Fine-tune with the Velo



Personally, I got better results turning the Velodyne EQ stuff off and letting ARC do all the work, and that's what I'm running right now. I posted my graphs back when I tried this.


My sub's target in ARC (with the Velodyne's EQ disabled) seems quite reasonable. Whereas with the Velodyne EQ enabled, the ARC target for the sub was much poorer. It appeared that what was happening was that the Velodyne's efforts quite near and above the cross-over where messing things up further above the cross over and giving ARC problems.


HOWEVER: At the time I did those tests I was using the Keyspan adapter from Windows XP running on a Mac in the BootCamp environment. I've since decided that my ARC Uploads were not reliable when done that way (bad data was getting to the D2 and the ARC Upload's verify process wasn't catching it and telling me to retry the Upload). So I'm not sure whether my earlier results with the Velodyne EQ turned on are actually due to the combined EQs in operation or simply due to faulty ARC Uploads.


ETA: The poorer target curves I saw with the Velodyne EQ enabled would point to a problem using that in combination with ARC independent of any Upload issues. But I wouldn't have even pondered the quality of the target curve if it hadn't been the case that what I was hearing in my listening tests was less than I had hoped for -- and *THAT* most definitely WOULD be biased by faulty Uploads of the ARC results.


I also did NOT try the proposed scheme of just letting the Velodyne EQ itself alone (without the main speakers) and then running ARC on top of that. I understand the logic of trying it that way (since ARC listens to ONLY the sub when playing the ARC's sub sweep tones), but I wonder whether it might distort the Velodyne's EQ when it now has to make the Velodyne try to do the work of a main speaker as well as a sub at the top of its correction range.


I really should retry this now that I've got a better handle on how to Upload ARC results reliably given my particular computers (i.e., transfer the ARC results file to a second computer with a real serial port (but only Windows 2000 so it can't itself do the ARC measurements) and use that computer to do the Upload). But I'm working on other stuff right now.


And again, my current setup -- ARC used alone with the Velodyne EQ disabled -- is working fine for me. The sub's target makes good sense, the calculated results look fine, and subjective listening tests say I've got it right.


----------------------------------


If you want to add the Velodyne EQ stuff AFTER running ARC be aware that unless you are very careful you will screw up one of the key things you have paid for with ARC -- the several decades of audio design research into what makes for ideal room response.


I.e., "flat" is *NOT* the appropriate target!


So if you run ARC, and then run the Velodyne stuff and use it to truly flatten the bass from sub-sonic all the way up to say twice the cross-over you will actually DEFEAT the "Room Gain" stuff built into the ARC design!

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13824221
> 
> 
> I.e., "flat" is *NOT* the appropriate target!
> 
> 
> --Bob



So what is the appropriate target? And how does one know that the ARC got there? If it just comes down to your ears, that's pretty subjective. Realizing, of course, that a ruler flat curve that sounds like trash, is, trash.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/13825151
> 
> 
> So what is the appropriate target? And how does one know that the ARC got there? If it just comes down to your ears, that's pretty subjective. Realizing, of course, that a ruler flat curve that sounds like trash, is, trash.



Look at some of the posted graphs here and notice the hump above the crossover. That's by design.


This is not my area of expertise, so I can't explain it. My point was, if you like the ARC "sound", going into the Velodyne stuff and flattening things out will undo that.

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc

Really intellectual curiosity on my point. I've bought different electronics in the past because I liked their personalities (i.e. sonic differences.) Levinson over Krell, for example. Totally subjective, but I like the sound better. I'm just curious what people who study acoustics for a living have come up with as "desirable" characteristics in a measurable sense.


----------



## jayray

In firmware 1.31, was anything changed in the video processor. I ask because video seems better now. Just looks more natural.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/13826259
> 
> 
> In firmware 1.31, was anything changed in the video processor. I ask because video seems better now. Just looks more natural.
> 
> 
> John



Nothing that Anthem has bragged about, but I noticed this too. It was quite a noticeable improvement for me going from V1.11 (the original version) to V1.31. It's hard to quantify without a signal analyzer, but I suspect they rolled in the latest firmware for the Gennum chip (or some such) and that the result is a more refined dithering algorithm near black and possibly also a better, default Gamma curve.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

during the update I noticed some files, which were labelled video processor, loaded and it caught my attention. So has the difference







Would be interesting if this was the case. I went from 1.11e to 1.31


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*WARNING! COLOR CALIBRATION BUG!
*


I'm struggling with a re-calibration pass, and I believe I've discovered a newly introduced bug. I'm using V1.31c.


SYMPTOM: The color and tint output of the internally generated test patterns (Video Source Adjust / Patterns) is being incorrectly altered by the Color and Tint settings of the currently selected input (Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color and Tint)! This means you can not set your TV's levels to best reproduce the test patterns and then independently adjust for each source device with the Anthem's input level settings (iterating as you go to fine tune both sets of settings), because those input level settings are incorrectly altering the test pattern output. I.e., the Color & Tint output of the Test Patterns CHANGE each time you change input source devices!


Note that input settings for Brightness, Contrast, and YCbCr Color Space do *NOT* alter the test pattern output -- only the input settings for Color and Tint exhibit this bug.


DETAILS: I'm using YCbCr 4:4:4 input at 1080i from my Comcast box. Output to my display is Data Format = Studio RGB. I do not know if the bug also crops up if you have a YCbCr display. I also notice that if you lower the input Color setting to zero, then the gray scale, red, and blue color bars all go to gray steps as you might expect (given the bug), but the GREEN color bars mute almost to black. This suggests there is a Data Format conversion mistake involved in this bug (i.e., Green channel and Y channel getting confused or some such).


I've reported the bug to Anthem.


For now, the only workaround I can think of is to select ANY input source and temporarily set its input, Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color and Tint settings to 50 (the factory defaults). Then go to the Patterns and adjust your TVs levels. Then go back to each source in turn and adjust its input settings for Color and Tint (and Brightness and Contrast) as necessary. However, you must NOT revisit your TV level settings using the Patterns for guidance, as the Patterns will no longer be correct!


I've not yet figured out if the possible Data Format conversion error part of this screws up even this sort of workaround -- i.e., it is possible that when you DO make input Color and Tint adjustments, that they aren't being implemented correctly.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13823718
> 
> 
> I have my TiVo set to output 1080i all the time to the D2.
> 
> 
> No Problems.



When I set the Tivo to 1080i there are no problems either, since the D2 does not have to adjust to the different input format. However, I would rather set the Tivo to native and let the D2 do all of the processing (since I paid for that processing). I await a firmware fix.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13828338
> 
> 
> When I set the Tivo to 1080i there are no problems either, since the D2 does not have to adjust to the different input format. However, I would rather set the Tivo to native and let the D2 do all of the processing (since I paid for that processing). I await a firmware fix.



BUT WHAT IF?????


What if it is a TiVo Problem and NOT a D2 problem?


Everyone points the finger at Anthem - ONLY because

they are the only ones who try to fix OTHER Problems

from other Manufacturers.


I DO NOT THINK you will see a difference in PQ leaving

the TiVo to 1080i.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13828375
> 
> 
> BUT WHAT IF?????
> 
> 
> What if it is a TiVo Problem and NOT a D2 problem?
> 
> 
> Everyone points the finger at Anthem - ONLY because
> 
> they are the only ones who try to fix OTHER Problems
> 
> from other Manufacturers.
> 
> 
> I DO NOT THINK you will see a difference in PQ leaving
> 
> the TiVo to 1080i.



It could be a Tivo problem although Nick thinks it is a D2 firmware issue. Who knows -


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13826594
> 
> *WARNING! COLOR CALIBRATION BUG!
> *
> 
> 
> I'm struggling with a re-calibration pass, and I believe I've discovered a newly introduced bug. I'm using V1.31c.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob, now that you mention it, I can say for sure that this problem as been there since at least v1.20 (my last version before v1.31c). It never occured to me







that this behaviour was wrong. I used to put the color adjustment down to 0 (video source adjust menu) when I was adjusting the gray scale on my projector. I remember very clearly that I did see this before.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Video from my Pioneer Elite 59avi standard DVD player has looked so good in the V1.31 software, that I decided to try a different approach to calibration to see if I could get my Comcast HD/DVR looking that good.


Calibrating a cable or satellite set top box is a tricky proposition unless you invest in a signal generator that can perform the role of a calibration DVD in providing known source content. Some channels periodically broadcast test patterns that you can record on a DVR, but it is tough to know how much to trust them. The patterns may not be properly constructed, or they may be altered by whatever the cable or satellite company is doing in the process of retransmitting them.


I use HDMI from both the DVD player and the Comcast box, and I know that my settings for the DVD player are causing it to send out (as HDMI 480i) precisely what is coming off the disc without alteration (save for a couple of one-off glitches in the gray scale steps from end to end in the gray ramp). I know this because some time ago one of the posters in the 59avi thread actually hooked one up to a signal analyzer and captured its output in response to known input coming off a purpose-made test disc. I.e., with the exception of those couple of glitches, the 59avi produces "reference" output for standard DVD play.


[NOTE: You need to make setting changes from Pioneer's 59avi factory default settings to get this result for HDMI 480i output. For details, find the 59avi thread in the standard DVD forum here. These setting changes are ONLY needed to correct HDMI 480i output in the 59avi. The factory defaults work fine for 480p and up. The 79avi is not supposed to require such setting changes for HDMI 480i, but I don't have one so I haven't confirmed this.]


In general, there is far less variation in calibration between HDMI devices than there is between Component devices, but there is usually SOME variation. So having set up the calibration for my 59avi using Avia Pro calibration discs, I've transferred those results to the Comcast input and then compared/tweaked from there.


Using the Anthem's test patterns with my Fujitsu plasma, the "best" setup of TV levels in my plasma results in input settings in the Anthem for the 59avi input of Contrast=50 and Brightness=50. Since I know the 59avi is sending out a clean gray scale, this implies the data is getting from the 59avi through the Anthem and out to the TV without compromise.


My "best" color level settings in the Plasma are a slight compromise to best balance response for all 3 of Blue, Red and Green. And this is reflected in the input calibration settings for the 59avi which come in at Color=51 and Tint=49 -- minor changes, but visible if you look carefully. Again, this is also a compromise setting, best balancing Blue, Red, and Green setup. The two sets of compromise settings work together.


-------------------------------


And if I transfer Brightness 50, Contrast 50, Color 51, and Tint 49 to the Comcast input settings -- banking on all HDMI input devices being equal -- it does indeed look quite good. BUT NOT AS GOOD AS THE 59avi!


Comparing to test patterns I recorded over a year ago on my DVR, these setting values on the Comcast are WRONG. Very wrong. In particular those test patterns say I should boost Color and Tint significantly (which is when I discovered the difficulty of color calibration in the V1.31 software reported above).


But if I adjust the Comcast input settings in the Anthem in accordance with those test patterns, the results are quite obviously *WORSE* than just transferring over the 59avi settings. There are two possible explanations for that. One is that the test patterns I recorded are flat out wrong. Another is that firmware updates in the Comcast over the past year or so have changed the way it plays back such old recordings. Unfortunately, the channels I used to record those (IN-HD in particular) are no longer carried by Comcast in my market, so I can't re-record them to compare.


In any event, those recorded test patterns aren't helpful. And when using the prior V1.11 software I just used the settings I found for the 59avi with the Comcast and was quite happy living with that.


But again, with the improvement in imaging from the 59avi under V1.31, I decided to take the difficult path of re-calibrating the Comcast by eye. [I could have paid an ISF tech to come in with a signal generator and light sensor to do it right, but I wanted to see how close I could come by eye.]


The method is as follows:


* I have some SD-DVDs that seem to have particularly high transfer quality. Animation DVDs are good for this because the data levels often match much more closely from scene to scene than is the case with film transfers. And there are often scenes in animation DVDs which approximate a smooth ramp of data values -- e.g. the gradual change in evening sky color from the horizon up.


* As it turns out I have been able to record these same movies as HDTV programs on my DVR (these are quite recent DVR recordings). Now you can't be sure that the HDTV broadcast is using a matched transfer to the SD-DVD, or that the broadcast data values haven't been damaged in the retransmission process by, in my case, Comcast. But they are another data value.


* So the procedure is to view key scenes in both the SD-DVD version and the HDTV version and to tweak the input settings for the Comcast box to try to get the HDTV version as close as possible in image quality to the SD-DVD version.


As you can imagine, this can be quite time consuming. And to avoid issues related to the transfer or broadcast differences, you need to do this with several movies to validate your results.


And of course you have to have faith that your SD-DVD playback setup is doing things *RIGHT* or you will just be altering your set top box to match whatever wrong thing your DVD setup is doing. In particular, if your CURRENT HDTV setup looks better than the best you can get from SD-DVD (for calibration related settings such as gray ramp smoothness and mid-range color purity -- not for resolution, or color gamut which are affected by the HDTV data format itself), there's no point in changing your HDTV setup to look worse than it currently does.


It is a tricky enough process that you also have to take candidate results and view a significant number of other programs on HDTV and SDTV looking for problems. But if you are patient, you CAN close in on improved settings for the set top box this way!


I believe I've just completed that. And although it will take a week or so of viewing to convince myself I haven't introduced some new problem, so far the viewing results from the Comcast box are SIGNIFICANTLY closer to the great quality I'm getting from the 59avi. What are the results?


59avi: Brightness 50, Contrast 50, Color 51, Tint 49


Comcast/Motorola DCT3412 HD/DVR: Brightness 47, Contrast 49, Color 51, Tint 49


As you can see, the big change is in the gray scale (Brightness for black levels and Contrast for white levels). It appears the Comcast box is artificially boosting black levels and this needs to be cut back. That would imply they have compressed the gray scale range a bit as well. This may be part of their scheme to reduce the bit rate of the programs on their cable, or it may just be an oddness in the Motorola hardware. I'm inclined to think it is Motorola's problem. But it is a relatively small squeeze, and the Anthem can correct for it quite well.


There is still a little more macro- and micro- compression noise in the Motorola's HDTV imaging. That likely IS due to Comcast re-compressing the programs to fit more channels on the cable.


But the net result appears to be a significant improvement over just transferring the 59avi settings to the Comcast input.


Unfortunately I've never been good at capturing screen shots by camera, so I can't post comparison frames. My only point is, if your HDTV isn't looking as "well calibrated" as your SD-DVD, consider doing some movie pair comparisons and tweaking your HDTV input settings in the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## tranle

My Anthem D2 is now an then losing HDCP sync (I think it is my D2). Twice now while watch a film on blu-ray, I got a black screen, then snow, then a message with something like I needed an HDCP TV, then it continued on showing the moving. The whole thing lasted from 2 to 3 sec.

I have a setup like this:

Sony BDP-S301 -> Anthem D2 (v1.31) -> Sony KF42WE610.


Did somebody have that same thing happen to them ? I was wondering if it is a known problem and it I should reported to Anthem ?


----------



## dweltman

I had that problem with my cable box connection to the D2. As Bob has mentioned many times before, the first thing to check is the HDMI cable. I had a thick and relatively high quality (ie expensive) cable and replaced it with a Monoprice cable and the intermittent loss of HDMI handshake stopped immediately.


----------



## jayray

With 1.31, still cannot get sound once pj is turned off. Thought this firmware might fix this. I have HDMI sync=No. Is there anything else I need to do?

John


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/13842148
> 
> 
> I had that problem with my cable box connection to the D2. As Bob has mentioned many times before, the first thing to check is the HDMI cable. I had a thick and relatively *high quality (ie expensive) cable* and replaced it with a Monoprice cable and the intermittent loss of HDMI handshake stopped immediately.



Expensive High Quality with cables. I wish people would learn that.


Monster has had some of the worst influence in the HT world. I wish they would go away.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/13841717
> 
> 
> My Anthem D2 is now an then losing HDCP sync (I think it is my D2). Twice now while watch a film on blu-ray, I got a black screen, then snow, then a message with something like I needed an HDCP TV, then it continued on showing the moving. The whole thing lasted from 2 to 3 sec.
> 
> I have a setup like this:
> 
> Sony BDP-S301 -> Anthem D2 (v1.31) -> Sony KF42WE610.
> 
> 
> Did somebody have that same thing happen to them ? I was wondering if it is a known problem and it I should reported to Anthem ?



You might want to make sure your Blu-ray player is running the latest firmware. I know there was a new one recently for the bdp-300.


----------



## tranle

About my problem with my D2 loosing hdmi sync.

1) I am using the blue-jean cable HDMI BJC-Series1 and they are only 6feet, so I do not think it is the cable problem.

2) My Sony BDP-S301 was using the firmware 3.90 (date 4/22/2008) and it had also happened with the previous firmware 3.80


So far it has only happened 1 time in 2 different film viewing. So the problem is not frequent. But it is anoying that you are immersed in the film, then suddenly black screen, no sound, snow, then the film continue. Just never noticed those problem with the original 1.20 firmware.


----------



## cpcat

The Sony bdp-s300/301 has been glitchy over HDMI from the beginning. Firmware 3.8/3.9 has improved this with my AVM50 (V. 1.31) but the handshake is still a little shaky. Prior to V3.80/3.90 on the Sony, it was mandatory to boot up the player with the AVM50 on another input before allowing the initial handshake or sync didn't occur. Now this is no longer necessary. However, on two occasions, I've had a bad sync which forced powering on/off the AVM50 to reacquire. Once acquired though, the link is stable for me and I haven't had any problems during watching BD/DVD's.


I have HDMI repeater=off and I use source direct/1080p24 on the Sony with 444 output engaged. The AVM50 is set for 1080p24 output with framelock "auto", data format 444 with colorspace "auto".


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/13842594
> 
> 
> With 1.31, still cannot get sound once pj is turned off. Thought this firmware might fix this. I have HDMI sync=No. Is there anything else I need to do?
> 
> John



First make sure you are using the right setting. It is HDMI Repeater = NO in the Setup / Source Setup menu for each source, not HDMI Sync = Normal/Inverted in the Setup / Video Output menus.


Second, there *IS* apparently still a bug in the HDMI Repeater processing in the V1.31c firmware.


With my Pioneer Elite 59avi player I can get HDMI audio with my display turned off but ONLY if I go to that input on the Anthem AFTER the display is turned off. If I turn the display off while staying in the Anthem input for HDMI audio from the player the audio will cut in and out every few seconds as the player decides it needs to try to re-establish the HDMI connection. I can actually see the Pioneer repeatedly restarting its HDMI connection on its front panel.


Curiously, this problem does NOT exist if I set up for HDMI audio from my Comcast/Motorola DCT3412 HD/DVR. HDMI audio from the Comcast box will continue with the display off even if I'm already on that Anthem input when I turn the display off. Now the Comcast box does a double handshake for HDMI audio -- it does one handshake to set up for video only HDMI output, and then an additional handshake to setup for video plus audio over HDMI. This is why it takes an extra few seconds for HDMI audio to start from that box after video has already started. So I suspect what is happening is that the second handshake is triggering proper handling from the Anthem's HDMI Repeater=NO processing and that's why audio still works with the display off (albeit after a delay for the 2 handshakes to complete).


[Normally I use optical cable for audio from the Comcast box (and HDMI just for video) to avoid this extra delay in its audio startup each time it switches output resolutions due to a channel change.]


And normally I switch inputs using my Harmony remote, and the nature of its setup is that I go to the Pioneer player input AFTER the display turns on or off, so in my configuration I wouldn't see this HDMI Repeater = NO bug. But by forcing stuff to happen in the "wrong" order I can see it quite repeatably.


I'll report the bug to Anthem.


----------------------------------------


Try this workaround: Turn your projector off. Then switch the Anthem to a different input (if it is already on your HDMI music input) and then back to your HDMI music input.


ETA: Whether or not the workaround works for you, you should contact Anthem tech support with details on your source device and projector. This may help them track down the HDMI Repeater=NO bug I described above.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/13841717
> 
> 
> My Anthem D2 is now an then losing HDCP sync (I think it is my D2). Twice now while watch a film on blu-ray, I got a black screen, then snow, then a message with something like I needed an HDCP TV, then it continued on showing the moving. The whole thing lasted from 2 to 3 sec.
> 
> I have a setup like this:
> 
> Sony BDP-S301 -> Anthem D2 (v1.31) -> Sony KF42WE610.
> 
> 
> Did somebody have that same thing happen to them ? I was wondering if it is a known problem and it I should reported to Anthem ?



Every HDMI source device requiring copy protection periodically retests the HDMI connection chain to make sure the copy protection stuff is still good from end to end. Normally you don't see this. It happens in the background while the content is playing. However, if the check fails, then the source does a complete new handshake to try again and that takes a couple seconds (during which the video glitches).


I suspect some of the HDMI changes Anthem made for the V1.31 firmware have made this re-checking process more sensitive for some devices. However the cabling suggestion really is the place to start. Even a slightly different mechanical fit of the plugs in the sockets can make a difference, particularly for 1080p video.


Your current cable's plugs might have become a bit loose in the sockets, or they might have a tiny bit of corrosion on the pins. Frankly, it is a bit of a miracle that 1080p video works at all over HDMI, so the plug/socket connections really do have to be "right". Even a slight shift of the plug in the socket, due perhaps to the weight of the cable, can cause problems.


If a cable swap out doesn't work, give Anthem tech support a call with details on the source device giving you problems.


I have seen some infrequent cases of HDMI re-check static with my source devices and V1.31c, but it is rare enough that it is hard to tell if it is really an HDMI issue or something equally rare like a power glitch or more common like a signal screw up from Comcast.


It is also wise to consider if anything has changed in the ventilation around your sources and the Anthem, as HDMI driver chips can be temperature sensitive. (But frankly, the cable/plug/socket issue is way more common as the cause of this.)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/13843319
> 
> 
> The Sony bdp-s300/301 has been glitchy over HDMI from the beginning. Firmware 3.8/3.9 has improved this with my AVM50 (V. 1.31) but the handshake is still a little shaky. Prior to V3.80/3.90 on the Sony, it was mandatory to boot up the player with the AVM50 on another input before allowing the initial handshake or sync didn't occur. Now this is no longer necessary. However, on two occasions, I've had a bad sync which forced powering on/off the AVM50 to reacquire. Once acquired though, the link is stable for me and I haven't had any problems during watching BD/DVD's.
> 
> 
> I have HDMI repeater=off and I use source direct/1080p24 on the Sony with 444 output engaged. The AVM50 is set for 1080p24 output with framelock "auto", data format 444 with colorspace "auto".



You may have better luck with Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF.


Now that there are multiple Video Output configurations, the recommended method for producing 1080p/24 output is to leave Frame Lock = OFF for all sources and to set up two Video Output configurations: One for 1080p/24 output and the other for 1080p/60 output from the D2.


Then set up 2 overlayed input definitions in the D2 (e.g., DVD1 and DVD2) such that one of them uses the 1080p/24 Video Output configuration and the other used the 1080p/60 configuration. Select the 1080p/24 one when viewing normal Blu-Ray movies. Select the 1080p/60 one when viewing 1080i/60 Blu-Ray discs (e.g., live music concerts). You would also use the 1080p/60 Video Output configuration for SD-DVD, SDTV and HDTV viewing.

--Bob


----------



## metallicafreak

Hi All,

I was wondering if there is a video "pass-thru" setting? My D2 and my Marantza 15s1 have the same chip in it and I wanted to see whether I get the best results just passing the vieod source native to the PJ and let the PJ scale (sometimes when I have set the D2 to output 1080p/24 from cable, it stutters a lot) the image.


FREAK!


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13843894
> 
> 
> You may have better luck with Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = OFF.
> 
> 
> Now that there are multiple Video Output configurations, the recommended method for producing 1080p/24 output is to leave Frame Lock = OFF for all sources and to set up two Video Output configurations: One for 1080p/24 output and the other for 1080p/60 output from the D2.
> 
> 
> Then set up 2 overlayed input definitions in the D2 (e.g., DVD1 and DVD2) such that one of them uses the 1080p/24 Video Output configuration and the other used the 1080p/60 configuration. Select the 1080p/24 one when viewing normal Blu-Ray movies. Select the 1080p/60 one when viewing 1080i/60 Blu-Ray discs (e.g., live music concerts). You would also use the 1080p/60 Video Output configuration for SD-DVD, SDTV and HDTV viewing.
> 
> --Bob




Not sure why you'd go to all of this trouble. With output set to 1080p24 and Framelock "auto" the AVM50 output automatically switches between 1080p24 for BD (1080p24 input) and 1080p60 (for 480i input) from DVD. This way everything happens automatically. My pj takes 1080p24 input and displays at 96hz and obviously 1080p60 is displayed @ 60hz. For BD 1080i video sources, the AVM50 also automatically switches to 1080p60 output so everything's properly handled.


----------



## shah993

Hi!

I got the PS3 and have connected to the D2 via HDMI.I have an Optoma H79 projector (only 720p).I do not see any significant improvement in PQ compared to SD DVD played on a Sony megachanger connected with componant.Is the D2 that good or do I need to change any settings on the PS3?Currently the setting I have is thx 5.1 plxII.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/13845018
> 
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I got the PS3 and have connected to the D2 via HDMI.I have an Optoma H79 projector (only 720p).I do not see any significant improvement in PQ compared to SD DVD played on a Sony megachanger connected with componant.Is the D2 that good or do I need to change any settings on the PS3?Currently the setting I have is thx 5.1 plxII.



There was talk about the latest firmware helping on the SD DVD. I am sure that Bob will come in with some great info also, as he is the master of the D2 and PS3.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/13844410
> 
> 
> Not sure why you'd go to all of this trouble. With output set to 1080p24 and Framelock "auto" the AVM50 output automatically switches between 1080p24 for BD (1080p24 input) and 1080p60 (for 480i input) from DVD. This way everything happens automatically. My pj takes 1080p24 input and displays at 96hz and obviously 1080p60 is displayed @ 60hz. For BD 1080i video sources, the AVM50 also automatically switches to 1080p60 output so everything's properly handled.



Yes, but you said you were having some HDMI handshake problems. Frame Lock = Auto complicates the handshake.


On the other hand, if it ain't broke don't fix it! If you are happy with the way it is working now, then by all means leave it set on Frame Lock = Auto.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *metallicafreak* /forum/post/13844315
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I was wondering if there is a video "pass-thru" setting? My D2 and my Marantza 15s1 have the same chip in it and I wanted to see whether I get the best results just passing the vieod source native to the PJ and let the PJ scale (sometimes when I have set the D2 to output 1080p/24 from cable, it stutters a lot) the image.
> 
> 
> FREAK!



The short answer is no, there is no "pass through" setting for HDMI sources. For Component sources you can get "pass through" using the Zone 2 output (set Zone 2 to output "unprocessed" video).


-----------------------------


The Anthems do not yet properly implement the conversion from 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 for film-based content. This is a known issue and Nick has said in the past that Anthem will tackle this once ARC has shipped (i.e., now!). So when watching SD-DVD or SDTV or HDTV you should set your Video Output to 1080p/60, even if you are watching a "film-based" movie.


NOTE: It only makes sense to even attempt 1080p/24 output if the content you are watching is "film-based" -- i.e., originally captured at 24 frames per second. For "video-based" content, captured by a video camera at 30 fps, and for some computer animated movies that are generated at 30 (or even 60!) fps, you do *NOT* want to use 1080p/24 output. The reason is simple: It can't be done cleanly. There's no way to turn "real" 30 fps into 24 fps without screwing up the smoothness of the imaging.


I.e., you can raise 24 fps original content to 30 fps "almost perfectly" by repeating fields (interlaced half-frames) in the appropriate cadence -- the so called "telecine" process that has been around since the dawn of TV. (It is only "almost perfect" because there is a little bit of cadence judder left in the result.) But there's no good way to go the other direction. Anything you try to drop out of the 30 fps "video based" stream to slow it to 24 fps will be caught by the eye. The result is MUCH worse than mere cadence judder.


Now, if you take a movie (24 fps) and apply the telecine process to raise it to video frame rates (30 fps) theoretically you should be able to reverse the process to extract the original 24 fps. To do this, you need to detect the field repeat cadence and remove the repeated fields. This is tricky, however, as all sorts of things happen in a typical video stream which break the cadence and cause it to start over. Apparently the Anthems don't handle this right, meaning you may get good 24 fps video to start, but it soon loses track of what it is doing and you start seeing the typical stuttering when 30 fps stuff is output as 24 fps without extracting the right (i.e, the repeated) fields.


So again, until Anthem puts out a fix for this, do not use 1080p/24 Video Output when viewing SD-DVDs, SDTV, or HDTV, even if the content is a "film-based" movie.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/13845018
> 
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I got the PS3 and have connected to the D2 via HDMI.I have an Optoma H79 projector (only 720p).I do not see any significant improvement in PQ compared to SD DVD played on a Sony megachanger connected with componant.Is the D2 that good or do I need to change any settings on the PS3?Currently the setting I have is thx 5.1 plxII.



The setting you mention is an audio setting, not a video setting.


I'm not sure if you are comparing SD-DVD or Blu-Ray playback from the PS3 vs. SD-DVD from your megachanger.


In either case, comparisons like this are tough unless you take the time to do careful video calibration both ways. Also make sure you are viewing a well made transfer to disc. There are badly produced Blu-Ray discs out there just as there are badly produced SD-DVD discs.


But yes, the D2 is that good at de-interlacing, upscaling, and level adjusting standard definition DVDs when fed proper HDMI 480i from the player.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My scheme for doing movie comparisons hit a big pot-hole this weekend when I tried to compare my SD-DVD of Ratatouille to the HDTV version broadcast by Stars-HD (and captured on my DVR).


The problem is that Stars and/or Comcast has thoroughly screwed up the HDTV version. Its color balance and gray scale ramps are totally out of whack. I've seen bad results from Stars before in my local Comcast market, but nothing this bad. I tried, as a challenge, to see if I could come up with ANY calibration settings that would make this HDTV movie look decent, and there are none.


-------------------------------


On a more positive note, I spent the past day playing with the "Exponential" Gamma correction option in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Output menu) -- something I hadn't spent much time with before.


I was pleasantly surprised at just how well it worked!


Calibration DVDs include "squint style" Gamma test charts -- squint your eyes to blur a hatched black/white patch and compare to an adjacent gray patch -- view a set of such patches and the pair that most closely matches will be labeled with your current Gamma. A Gamma of 2.2, as determined with such a test chart, is what you want to target. If your display isn't CRT based, then it will need "Gamma Correction" to achieve that, and the correction inside your display may be off. The Anthem can fine tune that for you. Proper Gamma correction is a major factor in how natural your imaging looks.


[Technical note: CRTs are inherently non-linear in their gray scale response. Rather than add the cost of expensive correction circuitry to every TV, it was decided back at the dawn of time that "standard" video would be produced to EXPECT this non-linearity. The problem is, modern digital TVs -- LCDs and Plasmas and such -- don't have the same sort of non-linear response. And so we are back in the business of providing expensive circuitry to emulate the response of a CRT. This is Gamma correction. Think of Gamma as the shape of the response curve between black and white. It is usually exponential. The Anthem provides a simple setting for performing exponential Gamma correction. If the situation with your display is more complicated, you can build a custom response curve in the Live Video Settings Editor and load that into the Anthem. You can build a single "gray scale" curve or separate curves for the Red, Green, and Blue components of gray. Simple Gamma measurements using the "squint" charts are a good start, but proper Gamma correction requires the use of a light sensor to measure the actual and corrected ramps. This is one of the most important services an ISF calibration technician will provide for you (for a fee).]


Be aware, however, that Gamma settings in the Video Source Adjust / Output menu *WILL ALTER* the output of the Anthem's internally generated test patterns. That means you may have to iterate a bit to set the proper Gamma correction value combined with the proper sweet spot combination of Brightness and Contrast settings in your display to get the best reproduction of the Anthem's Color Bars test chart.


E.g., increasing Exponential Gamma has the side effect of lowering the black levels in the test patterns. That means you will need to raise Brightness in your TV to get the displayed black level back where it should be. And of course when you adjust Brightness, you also need to fine tune white levels with the Contrast control in your TV.


NOTE: The value of the Exponential Gamma Correction setting that produces a Gamma of 2.2 on a test chart won't itself be 2.2. The setting will be determined by how much correction you need to apply to what your TV is already doing. If your display is ALREADY corrected internally to Gamma 2.2, then the setting in the Anthem will be the default 1.00 setting.

--Bob


----------



## metallicafreak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13847306
> 
> 
> The short answer is no, there is no "pass through" setting for HDMI sources. For Component sources you can get "pass through" using the Zone 2 output (set Zone 2 to output "unprocessed" video).
> 
> 
> -----------------------------
> 
> 
> The Anthems do not yet properly implement the conversion from 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 for film-based content. This is a known issue and Nick has said in the past that Anthem will tackle this once ARC has shipped (i.e., now!). So when watching SD-DVD or SDTV or HDTV you should set your Video Output to 1080p/60, even if you are watching a "film-based" movie.
> 
> 
> NOTE: It only makes sense to even attempt 1080p/24 output if the content you are watching is "film-based" -- i.e., originally captured at 24 frames per second. For "video-based" content, captured by a video camera at 30 fps, and for some computer animated movies that are generated at 30 (or even 60!) fps, you do *NOT* want to use 1080p/24 output. The reason is simple: It can't be done cleanly. There's no way to turn "real" 30 fps into 24 fps without screwing up the smoothness of the imaging.
> 
> 
> I.e., you can raise 24 fps original content to 30 fps "almost perfectly" by repeating fields (interlaced half-frames) in the appropriate cadence -- the so called "telecine" process that has been around since the dawn of TV. (It is only "almost perfect" because there is a little bit of cadence judder left in the result.) But there's no good way to go the other direction. Anything you try to drop out of the 30 fps "video based" stream to slow it to 24 fps will be caught by the eye. The result is MUCH worse than mere cadence judder.
> 
> 
> Now, if you take a movie (24 fps) and apply the telecine process to raise it to video frame rates (30 fps) theoretically you should be able to reverse the process to extract the original 24 fps. To do this, you need to detect the field repeat cadence and remove the repeated fields. This is tricky, however, as all sorts of things happen in a typical video stream which break the cadence and cause it to start over. Apparently the Anthems don't handle this right, meaning you may get good 24 fps video to start, but it soon loses track of what it is doing and you start seeing the typical stuttering when 30 fps stuff is output as 24 fps without extracting the right (i.e, the repeated) fields.
> 
> 
> So again, until Anthem puts out a fix for this, do not use 1080p/24 Video Output when viewing SD-DVDs, SDTV, or HDTV, even if the content is a "film-based" movie.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob for not only answering my question but, as usual, also totally explaining it to me.


FREAK!


----------



## benleeys

Hi guys,

I need help! Tried running my ARC-1 using Com1, but it refuses to detect my D2. I know the port is working because my mouse was using it (now using USB). PC is running XP.


Question - Have I got to power up the D2 before starting ARC? I tried both ways, but to no avail. And do I have to disconnect all source inputs, especially HDMIs?


Thanks for your help.

Ben


----------



## ASW

I have noticed that when watching video where characters are in bright sunlight, the colors become over-driven and a bit garish and lose detail. This happens on all sources, although it seems worse on DVDs playing through component video. My monitor is a Panasonic TH-65PX600U, which ordinarily has pretty true colors. I have had my system professionally calibrated.


Any thoughts?


----------



## shah993

I was comparing SD from a megachanger with the Blueray from the PS3.I have read on the forum that PS3 was not very good at SD.Although the megachanger PQ does not rate as high as say an OPPO.All the same every time I watch a movie in SD I am simply amazed at the PQ even at 720p!.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13848683
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I need help! Tried running my ARC-1 using Com1, but it refuses to detect my D2. I know the port is working because my mouse was using it (now using USB). PC is running XP.
> 
> 
> Question - Have I got to power up the D2 before starting ARC? I tried both ways, but to no avail. And do I have to disconnect all source inputs, especially HDMIs?
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> Ben



You don't have to power up the D2 first, and you don't have to disconnect HDMI stuff before using ARC.


Have you already updated your D2 firmware to V1.31? You need to do that first. Did your serial connection work for that?


The most likely thing I can think of is that your prior Mouse driver is still holding on to COM1 even though the Mouse you are using now is a USB Mouse. You may be able to spot this if you go into Device Manager and look at the status of the COM ports. You may need to disable the serial port Mouse driver. Or I suppose your USB Mouse driver might have latched on to COM1 as a "virtual" serial port for the USB Mouse, in which case ARC should be able to use your real serial port under another name such as COM2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/13849730
> 
> 
> I was comparing SD from a megachanger with the Blueray from the PS3.I have read on the forum that PS3 was not very good at SD.Although the megachanger PQ does not rate as high as say an OPPO.All the same every time I watch a movie in SD I am simply amazed at the PQ even at 720p!.



Well as good as SD-DVD can be with the D2, you should still be able to spot an improvement watching quality Blu-Ray discs. The movie review forum here has a pair of threads that rank Blu-Ray movie transfers by video and by audio quality. A select few are at the top of the heap as "reference" quality transfers. For example, the Blu-Ray version of Ratatouille is in that class. These are the discs you should be using to test your Blu-Ray playback setup.


You should also look for Blu-Ray calibration discs. I believe the Digital Video Essentials for Blu-Ray is out now, and the Avia for Blu-Ray is due out within the next month or so. Use these to double check your settings in the PS3 and in the D2 for that input. The PS3 is capable of very high quality Blu-Ray output, and even a 720p display should show imaging improvements over SD-DVD, although it won't be all that startlingly different if you have your SD-DVD set up right through the D2. Then of course there is the audio improvement in the new lossless audio formats for Blu-Ray.


Keep in mind that movies are often made to have a soft look -- intentionally. So don't expect the Blu-Ray version of movies to have a significantly different sharpness.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13848772
> 
> 
> I have noticed that when watching video where characters are in bright sunlight, the colors become over-driven and a bit garish and lose detail. This happens on all sources, although it seems worse on DVDs playing through component video. My monitor is a Panasonic TH-65PX600U, which ordinarily has pretty true colors. I have had my system professionally calibrated.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?



Have you added or changed any source devices since you setup was calibrated? The calibration that worked for your original devices may no longer be correct for new devices. Variation between devices is particularly a problem with Component connections.


What you describe could be "white crush". This happens when your white levels are set higher than your display can accurately reproduce, meaning that whites below Reference White all get crushed to the same level, and Peak Whites above Reference White don't get shown at all. You can check this using the Digital Video Essentials (DVE) calibration disc. Note that the other popular calibration disc, Avia, does not include Blacker than Black or Peak White data in any of its test charts, so it is not as good for testing for this problem. (The more expensive Avia Pro disc set DOES include such charts.)


White levels are controlled by the Contrast control. It works in conjunction with the Brightness control that adjust black levels -- i.e., changing either one also alters the other one to a lesser degree in the same direction. A simple test for white crush would be to temporarily lower Contrast in your display significantly and then play your problem scenes and see if the detail is visible (ignoring that the image is otherwise too dark now). If the problem is not on the display side, return its Contrast back to where it was and try lowering Contrast in the Video Source Adjust / Picture menu of the D2 for the input you are using for the DVD player.


If you are using RGB data format (as opposed to YCbCr) for input or output, another common cause of white crush is mistakenly selecting Extended RGB data format as opposed to Studio RGB. For details on the difference between these, see the Data Format related posts linked in the collection of links in the first post of this thread. While in there, also read the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post which may have additional hints to help you figure out what is wrong.


For example, you may have accidentally switched either the DVD player or the display to the wrong "picture mode" -- one that has built-in white crush despite your prior calibration.

--Bob


----------



## shah993




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13849867
> 
> 
> Well as good as SD-DVD can be with the D2, you should still be able to spot an improvement watching quality Blu-Ray discs. The movie review forum here has a pair of threads that rank Blu-Ray movie transfers by video and by audio quality. A select few are at the top of the heap as "reference" quality transfers. For example, the Blu-Ray version of Ratatouille is in that class. These are the discs you should be using to test your Blu-Ray playback setup.
> 
> 
> You should also look for Blu-Ray calibration discs. I believe the Digital Video Essentials for Blu-Ray is out now, and the Avia for Blu-Ray is due out within the next month or so. Use these to double check your settings in the PS3 and in the D2 for that input. The PS3 is capable of very high quality Blu-Ray output, and even a 720p display should show imaging improvements over SD-DVD, although it won't be all that startlingly different if you have your SD-DVD set up right through the D2. Then of course there is the audio improvement in the new lossless audio formats for Blu-Ray.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that movies are often made to have a soft look -- intentionally. So don't expect the Blu-Ray version of movies to have a significantly different sharpness.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13849783
> 
> 
> You don't have to power up the D2 first, and you don't have to disconnect HDMI stuff before using ARC.
> 
> 
> Have you already updated your D2 firmware to V1.31? You need to do that first. Did your serial connection work for that?
> 
> 
> The most likely thing I can think of is that your prior Mouse driver is still holding on to COM1 even though the Mouse you are using now is a USB Mouse. You may be able to spot this if you go into Device Manager and look at the status of the COM ports. You may need to disable the serial port Mouse driver. Or I suppose your USB Mouse driver might have latched on to COM1 as a "virtual" serial port for the USB Mouse, in which case ARC should be able to use your real serial port under another name such as COM2.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. I am using 1.31c. Tried all as you suggested, but no luck.

I noticed that unlike the other channels, the front speakers are not selectable. Is that normal?


Ben


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13849987
> 
> 
> Have you added or changed any source devices since you setup was calibrated? The calibration that worked for your original devices may no longer be correct for new devices. Variation between devices is particularly a problem with Component connections.
> 
> 
> What you describe could be "white crush". This happens when your white levels are set higher than your display can accurately reproduce, meaning that whites below Reference White all get crushed to the same level, and Peak Whites above Reference White don't get shown at all. You can check this using the Digital Video Essentials (DVE) calibration disc. Note that the other popular calibration disc, Avia, does not include Blacker than Black or Peak White data in any of its test charts, so it is not as good for testing for this problem. (The more expensive Avia Pro disc set DOES include such charts.)
> 
> 
> White levels are controlled by the Contrast control. It works in conjunction with the Brightness control that adjust black levels -- i.e., changing either one also alters the other one to a lesser degree in the same direction. A simple test for white crush would be to temporarily lower Contrast in your display significantly and then play your problem scenes and see if the detail is visible (ignoring that the image is otherwise too dark now). If the problem is not on the display side, return its Contrast back to where it was and try lowering Contrast in the Video Source Adjust / Picture menu of the D2 for the input you are using for the DVD player.
> 
> 
> If you are using RGB data format (as opposed to YCbCr) for input or output, another common cause of white crush is mistakenly selecting Extended RGB data format as opposed to Studio RGB. For details on the difference between these, see the Data Format related posts linked in the collection of links in the first post of this thread. While in there, also read the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post which may have additional hints to help you figure out what is wrong.
> 
> 
> For example, you may have accidentally switched either the DVD player or the display to the wrong "picture mode" -- one that has built-in white crush despite your prior calibration.
> 
> --Bob



No changes since calibration - I also ran a check using a Spyder TV on each source, and it says they they all are set correctly. I do not think I have anything set to RGB, but I will check tonight. It is really odd, because in most cases (i.e., other than those shot in bright sunlight) the picture seems pretty spot-on to me.


Thanks.


Alan


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13850211
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob. I am using 1.31c. Tried all as you suggested, but no luck.
> 
> I noticed that unlike the other channels, the front speakers are not selectable. Is that normal?
> 
> 
> Ben



Correct, the front speakers are required.


You may need to update some driver software in your computer. It may be easier for you to try a different computer. I understand that Anthem has discovered the version of XP shipped in some brands of computers is different from the "standard" XP and this too has caused some grief in serial port drivers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13850411
> 
> 
> No changes since calibration - I also ran a check using a Spyder TV on each source, and it says they they all are set correctly. I do not think I have anything set to RGB, but I will check tonight. It is really odd, because in most cases (i.e., other than those shot in bright sunlight) the picture seems pretty spot-on to me.
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Alan



So you see the same loss of detail even after dropping Contrast in your display, and on the input side? Hmmm, puzzling.


Does your display suffer from "floating blacks"? This is a significant change in the black/white level settings as the average brightness of the image increases. It too can be a cause of white crush.


What DVD player are you using? Some players have inherent white crush that can sometimes be fixed by minor setting changes, or in other cases require a firmware update.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13850828
> 
> 
> Correct, the front speakers are required.
> 
> 
> You may need to update some driver software in your computer. It may be easier for you to try a different computer. I understand that Anthem has discovered the version of XP shipped in some brands of computers is different from the "standard" XP and this too has caused some grief in serial port drivers.
> 
> --Bob



Many thanks for your help, Bob. I'll try on another (newer) PC tomorrow. Wish me luck!


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ASW,

Here's another thing to check: It is possible, but less likely, that you have a YCbCr Color Space mismatch. The usual complaint in that case would be that greens are fluorescent or unusually dull as opposed to loss of color detail in bright scenes, but it is still worth checking.


YCbCr is the normal Data Format for video data storage and transmission, but the physical portion of your display that emits light needs that converted to RGB. That happens inside the display. The difficulty is that the math for doing that is somewhat different for HDTV than for SDTV (part of implementing the larger color gamut of HDTV).


Now normally this is all handled automatically. If the video resolution being transmitted between devices is higher than 480p, then HDTV color math is supposed to be used at both ends. And if 480i or 480p, then SDTV color math is supposed to be used. But some devices are known to screw up even something as simple as this. And that's why the Anthem lets you force things to the "wrong" color math.


The best way to check if this is your problem is to view the Color Decoder test chart from the Avia calibration DVD. The chart has a Red a Green and a Blue strip against a white background with the color strips each ramping from darker to lighter. You view each strip through the equivalent color gel filter from the Calibration DVD and find the spot where the brightness of that color strip most closely matches the brightness of the white background (as viewed through the color gel filter).


If you have a YCbCr color space problem then Red and Blue will come in right around 0% error (presuming you have your Color and Tint levels set correctly), but Green will be around 15% brighter or darker than it should be (depending on which way you have the error).


If you don't have Avia, then you can also just try forcing the four combinations. In Setup / Video Output change Color Space from Auto, to HDTV and then SDTV. Meanwhile, in Video Source Adjust / Picture / Input Color Space for the input you use when viewing DVDs, change the setting from Auto to HDTV and then to SDTV.


For each of those 4 combos, view a problem DVD scene and see if it is now correct. If so then either your player or your display is not making the correct automatic choice for YCbCr Color Space in accordance with the video resolution going between it and the Anthem.


-----------------------------------------------------


ETA: One more thing to check: Do you have non-default values for Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color or Tint for your DVD input -- i.e., something other than 50? If so, be aware that there may be a bug in the implementation of those in the V1.31 software. I discussed this a few pages back when I noticed that changing those mistakenly also changes the output of the Anthem's internally generated test patterns. And what's worse, turning that Color setting all the way down cause Green in the test patterns to mute almost to black (instead of becoming gray at a given brightness). That means the Color control is not correctly implemented. What I don't know is if that affects normal video output from that input, or just the Anthem's test patterns.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13850871
> 
> 
> So you see the same loss of detail even after dropping Contrast in your display, and on the input side? Hmmm, puzzling.
> 
> 
> Does your display suffer from "floating blacks"? This is a significant change in the black/white level settings as the average brightness of the image increases. It too can be a cause of white crush.
> 
> 
> What DVD player are you using? Some players have inherent white crush that can sometimes be fixed by minor setting changes, or in other cases require a firmware update.
> 
> --Bob



1. Does your display suffer from "floating blacks"? Don't think so


2. What DVD player are you using? Sony DVP-CX860 300 disc player and a DVP-NS500 5-disc DVD/SACD changer. I also see this issue with my Tivo. Very odd - only shows up with brightly sunlit scenes.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13851379
> 
> 
> ASW,
> 
> Here's another thing to check: It is possible, but less likely, that you have a YCbCr Color Space mismatch. The usual complaint in that case would be that greens are fluorescent or unusually dull as opposed to loss of color detail in bright scenes, but it is still worth checking.
> 
> 
> YCbCr is the normal Data Format for video data storage and transmission, but the physical portion of your display that emits light needs that converted to RGB. That happens inside the display. The difficulty is that the math for doing that is somewhat different for HDTV than for SDTV (part of implementing the larger color gamut of HDTV).
> 
> 
> Now normally this is all handled automatically. If the video resolution being transmitted between devices is higher than 480p, then HDTV color math is supposed to be used at both ends. And if 480i or 480p, then SDTV color math is supposed to be used. But some devices are known to screw up even something as simple as this. And that's why the Anthem lets you force things to the "wrong" color math.
> 
> 
> The best way to check if this is your problem is to view the Color Decoder test chart from the Avia calibration DVD. The chart has a Red a Green and a Blue strip against a white background with the color strips each ramping from darker to lighter. You view each strip through the equivalent color gel filter from the Calibration DVD and find the spot where the brightness of that color strip most closely matches the brightness of the white background (as viewed through the color gel filter).
> 
> 
> If you have a YCbCr color space problem then Red and Blue will come in right around 0% error (presuming you have your Color and Tint levels set correctly), but Green will be around 15% brighter or darker than it should be (depending on which way you have the error).
> 
> 
> If you don't have Avia, then you can also just try forcing the four combinations. In Setup / Video Output change Color Space from Auto, to HDTV and then SDTV. Meanwhile, in Video Source Adjust / Picture / Input Color Space for the input you use when viewing DVDs, change the setting from Auto to HDTV and then to SDTV.
> 
> 
> For each of those 4 combos, view a problem DVD scene and see if it is now correct. If so then either your player or your display is not making the correct automatic choice for YCbCr Color Space in accordance with the video resolution going between it and the Anthem.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: One more thing to check: Do you have non-default values for Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color or Tint for your DVD input -- i.e., something other than 50? If so, be aware that there may be a bug in the implementation of those in the V1.31 software. I discussed this a few pages back when I noticed that changing those mistakenly also changes the output of the Anthem's internally generated test patterns. And what's worse, turning that Color setting all the way down cause Green in the test patterns to mute almost to black (instead of becoming gray at a given brightness). That means the Color control is not correctly implemented. What I don't know is if that affects normal video output from that input, or just the Anthem's test patterns.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks - I will give these suggestions a try.


A question about color space, though. Since I have a 180P monitor being fed a 1080p signal from the D2 via HDMI, shouldn't I set the output to HD? And on my DVD players, shouldn't I set the input on sd, since it will always be sd?


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13851305
> 
> 
> I'll try on another (newer) PC tomorrow. Wish me luck!



Ben, rather than using a new pc, I have a spare (6 yrs old) own-built desktop at home running XP that I used for ARC. No problems with either the firmware upgrade to 1.31 or installing ARC and recognizing my D2. If you can't get your pc to recognize the D2, I could always uninstall my ARC program, bring the pc over to your place to load your ARC program. Just let me know by PM, happy to oblige.


----------



## chas

My D2 returned from repair with software v1.30 installed, according to the front panel. I do not plan to use the ARC, since I have a stand-alone Audyssey. Is there any reason to install v1.31? I still have a rare loss of HDMI handshake, although not a major aggravation. I've read scary posts about upgraders losing their video afterwards, so I'm leery of messing with it unless v1.31 offers improves HDMI over v1.30. Suggestions? Thanks.


C.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13856307
> 
> 
> Ben, rather than using a new pc, I have a spare (6 yrs old) own-built desktop at home running XP that I used for ARC. No problems with either the firmware upgrade to 1.31 or installing ARC and recognizing my D2. If you can't get your pc to recognize the D2, I could always uninstall my ARC program, bring the pc over to your place to load your ARC program. Just let me know by PM, happy to oblige.



Thanks for your offer, uppacreek! You're very kind. Good to inform you (and Bob) that I managed somehow (don't really remember what I did, though, since I was in and out of the Hardware Manager and fiddling with all sorts of settings a zillion times) to get it working today.


I had a bit of a problem with the test tone giving a Code 3 error and having to repeat each speaker a number of times. Almost gave up halfway, but eventually got a set of readings. Was disappointed that my room fared so poorly







, especially in the frequencies above 5k. Maybe because I am using dipoles (MLogans). Nevertheless, I uploaded the results and, surprise







, I quite like what I'm hearing.


I am going to run the EQ a few more times with a bit of adjustments to the room and see whether I can improve on the original readings. Would really like to post it for all to see, but not sure how to do it. Can't even print it.


Hey, fellow Loganite, you're welcome to my place anytime - will PM you my location.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13855814
> 
> 
> Thanks - I will give these suggestions a try.
> 
> 
> A question about color space, though. Since I have a 180P monitor being fed a 1080p signal from the D2 via HDMI, shouldn't I set the output to HD? And on my DVD players, shouldn't I set the input on sd, since it will always be sd?



If your display is working correctly, then HDTV color space is the correct setting for output from the D2 since you are sending 1080p to the display. There may also be a setting in the display that needs to be set to expect HDTV color space. Note that this has nothing to do with the display's physical mechanism for producing the image (i.e., its internal color primary values). It is simply a matter of getting both sides of the cable in agreement as to what's coming across the cable.


However, the Auto setting for Setup / Video Output / Color Space should also work. Personally, I prefer to specify HDTV in Video Output and not leave it to chance that something might go wrong in the Auto setting.


-----------------------------------


The data on a standard DVD is recorded in the SDTV color space. If the DVD player is set to send 480i or 480p to the D2, then it should be sending SDTV color space over the cable. However, if you have an upscaling standard DVD player and you have it set to send 720p or higher to the D2, then the player *SHOULD* be converting the data to HDTV color space before sending it over the cable. Most upscaling DVD players do this automatically. But usually they also have a color space output setting to force SDTV or HDTV color space just in case the device at the other end of the cable isn't doing the right thing. So check and make sure you don't have that setting set incorrectly in the player. Again, if you are sending 480i to the D2 -- i.e, the recommended setup for SD-DVD playback from players that can do 480i output properly -- then SDTV color space is what the player should be sending.


Meanwhile, the input setting in the D2 (Video Source Adjust / Picture / Input Color Space) for that input should be set to Auto YCbCr by default (and Studio RGB by default which covers RGB source devices as well). The Auto YCbCr setting simply means the D2 will *EXPECT* YCbCr input video to be in SDTV color space if the input resolution is 480i or 480p, and HDTV color space otherwise.


NOTE: For PAL video markets, replace 480i/480p above with 576i/576p. Those are the SD resolutions for those markets.


There is no problem at all with having the D2 set to receive SDTV color space from the source device and output HDTV color space to the display. This is a trivial conversion and the D2 handles it just fine.


So the Auto settings in the D2 for input and output color space should work just fine, as should forcing it to the correct settings (in your case, HDTV for 1080p output and SDTV for 480i input). The only reason to change either side of the D2 to the "wrong" setting is to correct for a case where the source or the display isn't doing what it should be doing, as for example if you are using an upscaling SD-DVD player which you have set to send 720p or 1080i to the D2, and the player is mistakenly not converting the SDTV color space video off the disc to HDTV color space before sending it over the cable to the D2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13857275
> 
> 
> Thanks for your offer, uppacreek! You're very kind. Good to inform you (and Bob) that I managed somehow (don't really remember what I did, though, since I was in and out of the Hardware Manager and fiddling with all sorts of settings a zillion times) to get it working today.
> 
> 
> I had a bit of a problem with the test tone giving a Code 3 error and having to repeat each speaker a number of times. Almost gave up halfway, but eventually got a set of readings. Was disappointed that my room fared so poorly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , especially in the frequencies above 5k. Maybe because I am using dipoles (MLogans). Nevertheless, I uploaded the results and, surprise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I quite like what I'm hearing.
> 
> 
> I am going to run the EQ a few more times with a bit of adjustments to the room and see whether I can improve on the original readings. Would really like to post it for all to see, but not sure how to do it. Can't even print it.
> 
> 
> Hey, fellow Loganite, you're welcome to my place anytime - will PM you my location.
> 
> 
> Ben



Great!


The retries on the test sweeps may simply be due to the test sweep volume being a little low for your room.


You can adjust Setup / Level Calibration / Noise Level a few dB higher, and ARC will use that setting to adjust the volume of the test sweeps. Don't raise it too high as some subwoofers may automatically cut their output when sent what they think is an improperly high bass volume level, and that will screw up the sub's test sweep results.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/13857205
> 
> 
> My D2 returned from repair with software v1.30 installed, according to the front panel. I do not plan to use the ARC, since I have a stand-alone Audyssey. Is there any reason to install v1.31? I still have a rare loss of HDMI handshake, although not a major aggravation. I've read scary posts about upgraders losing their video afterwards, so I'm leery of messing with it unless v1.31 offers improves HDMI over v1.30. Suggestions? Thanks.
> 
> 
> C.



If V1.30 is working fine for you (Setup menu displays on screen, and video looks good) then I see no reason to upgrade to V1.31 yet since you don't intend to use ARC. I don't know of any differences between V1.30 and V1.31 that would be beneficial to you. I know of no HDMI handshake changes between V1.30 and V1.31 for example.


Of course if you discover a serious problem, Anthem will undoubtedly ask you to upgrade to V1.31 as the first step just so that they are diagnosing things based on their latest "official" release. And if you are set up to do an upgrade right now, you might want to do it right now just to get it over with.


The risks going from from V1.30 to V1.31 are small.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

I'm confused, again.

When watching BR movies on the ps3 the display on the D2 shows '5.1 DOLBY D EX'. This would be fine except that in the 'mode presets' on the D2 for the ps3 I set all the choices to PLxII.

When I scan thru the D2 info (by repeatedly pressing the D2 'enter' button) it shows the 'AUDIO INPUT' at '6 ch 48kHz'.

Is '48 kHz' the uncompressed hidef audio?

When I set up the ps3, I set the audio to 'LINEAR PCM' via hdmi.

I'm not sure why the D2 is not using PLxII to play the audio? I'm also not sure If I have set my settings to get the optimal audio from the ps3/D2 combo.

The sound and picture are outstanding. I'm not having any problems. I just want to make sure I'm set to get the maximum out of my system.

Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13860359
> 
> 
> I'm confused, again.
> 
> When watching BR movies on the ps3 the display on the D2 shows '5.1 DOLBY D EX'. This would be fine except that in the 'mode presets' on the D2 for the ps3 I set all the choices to PLxII.
> 
> When I scan thru the D2 info (by repeatedly pressing the D2 'enter' button) it shows the 'AUDIO INPUT' at '6 ch 48kHz'.
> 
> Is '48 kHz' the uncompressed hidef audio?
> 
> When I set up the ps3, I set the audio to 'LINEAR PCM' via hdmi.
> 
> I'm not sure why the D2 is not using PLxII to play the audio? I'm also not sure If I have set my settings to get the optimal audio from the ps3/D2 combo.
> 
> The sound and picture are outstanding. I'm not having any problems. I just want to make sure I'm set to get the maximum out of my system.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



If the status you get from pressing Select repeatedly shows you are receiving 6ch 48KHz from the PS3, then the PS3 is sending the proper, high-bandwidth, multi-channel LPCM to the D2.


What happens next depends on your speaker configuration and whether or not you have THX audio post processing turned on.


So do you have a 5.1, 6.1, or 7.1 speaker configuration specified in the Setup / Speaker Configuration menu? And do you have THX turned on in the D2 while listening to the PS3 (THX button on the remote and then Up or Down arrows to toggle the setting)?


While listening to the PS3, press the Mode button once and record what it says. See Sections 4.8.4 and 4.8.6 of the manual to decipher this stuff.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

I ordered my ARC two weeks ago, and found out today that Anthem is not going to ship it tell 6/1, so I will not see it until mid June.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13860557
> 
> 
> If the status you get from pressing Select repeatedly shows you are receiving 6ch 48KHz from the PS3, then the PS3 is sending the proper, high-bandwidth, multi-channel LPCM to the D2.
> 
> 
> What happens next depends on your speaker configuration and whether or not you have THX audio post processing turned on.
> 
> 
> So do you have a 5.1, 6.1, or 7.1 speaker configuration specified in the Setup / Speaker Configuration menu? And do you have THX turned on in the D2 while listening to the PS3 (THX button on the remote and then Up or Down arrows to toggle the setting)?
> 
> 
> While listening to the PS3, press the Mode button once and record what it says. See Sections 4.8.4 and 4.8.6 of the manual to decipher this stuff.
> 
> --Bob



I have the speaker configuration set to 7.1 -2 subs.

I haven't used THX for a long time, and it is not on now.

I am running ARC if that matters.

I will check the mode setting the next time I play a BR.


Tom


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/13862434
> 
> 
> I ordered my ARC two weeks ago, and found out today that Anthem is not going to ship it tell 6/1, so I will not see it until mid June.



I have great sympathy, yet I think I have you beat.


I ordered my ARC-1 through my dealer on Feb 12th. OF course, Anthem didn't accept orders until March 12th, but due to screwups with my dealer and/or salesperson, my order is in limbo.


You may get yours first...


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/13862434
> 
> 
> I ordered my ARC two weeks ago, and found out today that Anthem is not going to ship it tell 6/1, so I will not see it until mid June.



I have the same situation, ordered my ARC for my D1 on 5/4 and received a call from my dealer (5/9) that they had a message from Anthem that it is backorder with a 3 week delay. I assume from 5/9, which would also put it right around 6/1 for shipping.


I am curious if they are wating for feedback from initial "beta" testers (those first buyers) to incorporate software (and maybe hardware) changes or that they simply can't keep up with my demand.


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/13864237
> 
> 
> I have the same situation, ordered my ARC for my D1 on 5/4 and received a call from my dealer (5/9) that they had a message from Anthem that it is backorder with a 3 week delay. I assume from 5/9, which would also put it right around 6/1 for shipping.
> 
> 
> I am curious if they are wating for feedback from initial "beta" testers (those first buyers) to incorporate software (and maybe hardware) changes or that they simply can't keep up with my demand.



The problem is that Anthem ran out of mics, hence the delay.


----------



## benleeys

If we set Room EQ = Off at the Source Setup menu, will we get back our pre-ARC speaker configurations for that particular source?


My fronts are full range, going down to 24Hz (-3dB) and when playing 2-ch music, I do not like to use the sub. Previously, I had the Bass Management menu Adv Setting = Off, but the ARC changed it to 'On' and set xover points for all the speakers. From what I observe, the change seem to be permanent, whether EQ is off or on.










Ben


----------



## sfm

So I've been running the latest flavor of 1.31 since it was available with little trouble (well, except for my long standing issues for which Anthem seems to be unable to provide fixes... grrr...). Anywho, received my Arc package recently, ran though the calibration, uploaded and everything seemed fine. Was able to test out all my inputs, etc. and everything seemed okay.


The next day I go to turn on the system and I can tell something is not quite right... instead of the normal 10 or so seconds for the D2 to trigger on my amp, it takes well over 30 seconds... once the D2 finally comes online I have video but no audio... response to the remote is extremely sluggish (basically unusable)... and no matter what I do I cannot get any audio. Tried restarting the D2 but the symptoms are always the same... slow startup, I get video (although sometimes it is bizarre... like it is rendering with only a few colors), no audio and extremely sluggish remote response (unusable... 20 + seconds to respond to any command).


I finally decided the only thing to try is to reinstall 1.31c (fyi, using XP with a native serial port... no usb conversion) so I do that after first wiping the flash using the eraser program. Everything was back to normal... I intentionally do a couple of restarts of the system and it behaves as it did before I tried Arc (i.e. normally). So I run Arc again (I'm a glutton) and the first startup after Arc is uploaded everything is working as expected so I shrug it off as a glitch. However, the next day when I power the system up, same problems... slow startup, video (sometimes bizarre), no audio and D2 is extremely sluggish to respond to the remote. Try several restarts but to no avail. Re-install 1.31c (after clearing the flash) and I am now back to normal... Have left it alone (meaning I did not try to do Arc again) and it has been fine for several days now.


I will be sending these details to Nick but was just curious if anyone else has had similar experiences?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13866334
> 
> 
> If we set Room EQ = Off at the Source Setup menu, will we get back our pre-ARC speaker configurations for that particular source?
> 
> 
> My fronts are full range, going down to 24Hz (-3dB) and when playing 2-ch music, I do not like to use the sub. Previously, I had the Bass Management menu Adv Setting = Off, but the ARC changed it to 'On' and set xover points for all the speakers. From what I observe, the change seem to be permanent, whether EQ is off or on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



When you set Room EQ = Off for any given source, the ARC filters are disabled for that source, however the speaker levels and crossovers that ARC calculated are maintained. I.e., the settings you now see in Setup / Level Calibration and in Setup / Speaker Configuration (for the cross overs) -- the settings ARC altered as part of its Upload -- are used whether or not Room EQ = ON is set.


--------------------------------------------


The first thing to try is to run ARC in "Advanced" mode, and tell ARC that you want a separate Movie and Music configuration, and that you *DON'T* want the subwoofer included in the Music configuration.


ARC will measure at each location for your Movie setup and then start over and measure again at each location (which might, I suppose, be different) for your Music configuration. It will then calculate levels (common to both) and cross overs (different for Movie and Music) and present those cross overs to use as it's "targets" -- viewable in the Target window with separate results for Movie cross overs and Music cross overs.


So do the measurement that way and then see what ARC has come up with for Music cross overs. Since you have excluded the sub from the Music configuration, the Music configuration crossovers for your main speakers should now be set quite low or perhaps even disabled.


Now you can have ARC do its calculation based on that set of measurements and targets, or, if you prefer, you can alter the target crossovers shown in the targets window for the Music configuration and have ARC run its calculation based on those manual cross over settings.


Either way, now Upload the results to the D2.


Your Movie setup will be as before, and your Music setup will now show that the sub is not included in the configuration and the cross overs for the mains are as you had them in the ARC "targets" window prior to it doing its calculations.


NOW when you switch between Room EQ = ON/OFF for your Music sources all you are doing is taking the ARC filters out of the equation. The cross overs in the Music configuration will be as you set them in the ARC "targets" window for Music either way.


----------------------------------------------


Beware however that if you CHANGE the levels or cross over settings in the Setup menu *AFTER* Uploading ARC results, that such changes will effect ARC audio as well -- meaning the ARC calculations will no longer be valid. The correct way to alter the crossovers is to do it in the ARC "targets". Then re-calculate based on your prior measurements and these new targets and upload the results. You don't have to re-measure. Just change the targets, re-calculate, and Upload the new results.


[EXCEPTION: For technical reasons that I confess I do not understand, the above warning is NOT true for the subwoofer cross overs. If you change those in Setup / Speaker Configuration after Uploading ARC results, such changes will *NOT* alter ARC's audio. It will only alter audio when you select Room EQ = OFF for some source.]


In particular, this means you need to Save User Settings and/or Installer Settings after Uploading ARC results to make sure the current levels and crossovers used by ARC in its calculations are saved in those memories. Otherwise, if you Reload User or Installer Settings any differences in the old, saved, cross over or speaker level values will screw up ARC audio.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/13867279
> 
> 
> So I've been running the latest flavor of 1.31 since it was available with little trouble (well, except for my long standing issues for which Anthem seems to be unable to provide fixes... grrr...). Anywho, received my Arc package recently, ran though the calibration, uploaded and everything seemed fine. Was able to test out all my inputs, etc. and everything seemed okay.
> 
> 
> The next day I go to turn on the system and I can tell something is not quite right... instead of the normal 10 or so seconds for the D2 to trigger on my amp, it takes well over 30 seconds... once the D2 finally comes online I have video but no audio... response to the remote is extremely sluggish (basically unusable)... and no matter what I do I cannot get any audio. Tried restarting the D2 but the symptoms are always the same... slow startup, I get video (although sometimes it is bizarre... like it is rendering with only a few colors), no audio and extremely sluggish remote response (unusable... 20 + seconds to respond to any command).
> 
> 
> I finally decided the only thing to try is to reinstall 1.31c (fyi, using XP with a native serial port... no usb conversion) so I do that after first wiping the flash using the eraser program. Everything was back to normal... I intentionally do a couple of restarts of the system and it behaves as it did before I tried Arc (i.e. normally). So I run Arc again (I'm a glutton) and the first startup after Arc is uploaded everything is working as expected so I shrug it off as a glitch. However, the next day when I power the system up, same problems... slow startup, video (sometimes bizarre), no audio and D2 is extremely sluggish to respond to the remote. Try several restarts but to no avail. Re-install 1.31c (after clearing the flash) and I am now back to normal... Have left it alone (meaning I did not try to do Arc again) and it has been fine for several days now.
> 
> 
> I will be sending these details to Nick but was just curious if anyone else has had similar experiences?



Well that's certainly nasty! So far, we've had no other posts here that sound like this problem.


Off hand it sounds to me like some portion of the system is seeing a corrupt value in the settings as a result of the ARC upload, and is either not responding at all or is crashing and restarting repeatedly.


Try this: Turn off your display and source devices, and then power on the D2 by pressing the fm/am button on the front panel. Does that work at normal responsiveness? If so, the problem may be in the recognition of the source audio or the display.


Another thing to try, if you can get the system to function sufficiently, is to turn Room EQ = OFF for any Setup / Source Setup. Then power cycle, turning the D2 on by using the front panel button for that particular source device. If that restores normal responsiveness then it would appear that it is the processing of the ARC filters which has failed. You may have a hardware problem in the second DSP that handles ARC processing.


Both of these steps are not so much intended as workarounds as to get Anthem additional info that might help diagnose your problem.


A long shot possibility, if you still have the serial cable attached to the D2, is that some garbage is coming in on the serial cable (due to whatever is now going on in your computer) and the D2 is trying to interpret that as RS-232 remote commands. The easy test for that is to power down and disconnect the serial cable and try again.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13862823
> 
> 
> I have the speaker configuration set to 7.1 -2 subs.
> 
> I haven't used THX for a long time, and it is not on now.
> 
> I am running ARC if that matters.
> 
> I will check the mode setting the next time I play a BR.
> 
> 
> Tom



It sounds to me like the multi-channel PCM from the PS3 is including the flag identifying the track as originally DD 5.1 EX. Frankly, I wasn't aware you could do that in LPCM. Learn something new every day.


Since the (mono) back channel is already matrixed into the side surrounds, the Anthem may be ignoring your request to do PLIIx processing and using the Dolby EX algorithm instead. I don't have my PS3 yet, so I can't test this and compare. The difference should only be whether the back channel is mono or stereo.


Which audio track have you selected for playback from the Blu-Ray discs when you are seeing this. Is there any chance you have mistakenly selected the DD 5.1 EX track instead of, say, the raw PCM or TrueHD or DTS-HD MA track?

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13862823
> 
> 
> I have the speaker configuration set to 7.1 -2 subs.
> 
> I haven't used THX for a long time, and it is not on now.
> 
> I am running ARC if that matters.
> 
> I will check the mode setting the next time I play a BR.
> 
> Tom



FWIW,

I had the exact same thing happen once, only able to select DD EX, no DPLIIx option.

Checked the speaker config and it was set to 6.1 instead of 7.1.

Corrected the setting and it went back to "normal".

Hasn't happened since


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13810645
> 
> 
> Tonight my Tivo started having real issues with the D2 when switching from any HDTV format to 480i, either on live TV or watching a recorded program. In many cases, the D2 seems not to be able to lock on to the 480i signal at all and I get a flashing black screen. This happens both with HDMI and component connections between the Tivo and the D2. Setting the Tivo to 1080i from native fixes the issue (and, maybe surprisingly, with little or no difference in video quality).
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue? I have had the d2/Tivo S3 combination for over a year and, while there has been some sync-up time when I switch between formats, I have not seen the D2 be completely unable to lock on to a 480i signal before.
> 
> 
> I am trying rebooting the Tivo to see if that helps.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?



This seems to be a Tivo S3 issue since firmware 9.3a

http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb...04#post6284404


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13867626
> 
> 
> When you set Room EQ = Off for any given source, the ARC filters are disabled for that source, however the speaker levels and crossovers that ARC calculated are maintained. I.e., the settings you now see in Setup / Level Calibration and in Setup / Speaker Configuration (for the cross overs) -- the settings ARC altered as part of its Upload -- are used whether or not Room EQ = ON is set.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The first thing to try is to run ARC in "Advanced" mode, and tell ARC that you want a separate Movie and Music configuration, and that you *DON'T* want the subwoofer included in the Music configuration.
> 
> 
> ARC will measure at each location for your Movie setup and then start over and measure again at each location (which might, I suppose, be different) for your Music configuration. It will then calculate levels (common to both) and cross overs (different for Movie and Music) and present those cross overs to use as it's "targets" -- viewable in the Target window with separate results for Movie cross overs and Music cross overs.
> 
> 
> So do the measurement that way and then see what ARC has come up with for Music cross overs. Since you have excluded the sub from the Music configuration, the Music configuration crossovers for your main speakers should now be set quite low or perhaps even disabled.
> 
> 
> Now you can have ARC do its calculation based on that set of measurements and targets, or, if you prefer, you can alter the target crossovers shown in the targets window for the Music configuration and have ARC run its calculation based on those manual cross over settings.
> 
> 
> Either way, now Upload the results to the D2.
> 
> 
> Your Movie setup will be as before, and your Music setup will now show that the sub is not included in the configuration and the cross overs for the mains are as you had them in the ARC "targets" window prior to it doing its calculations.
> 
> 
> NOW when you switch between Room EQ = ON/OFF for your Music sources all you are doing is taking the ARC filters out of the equation. The cross overs in the Music configuration will be as you set them in the ARC "targets" window for Music either way.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Beware however that if you CHANGE the levels or cross over settings in the Setup menu *AFTER* Uploading ARC results, that such changes will effect ARC audio as well -- meaning the ARC calculations will no longer be valid. The correct way to alter the crossovers is to do it in the ARC "targets". Then re-calculate based on your prior measurements and these new targets and upload the results. You don't have to re-measure. Just change the targets, re-calculate, and Upload the new results.
> 
> 
> [EXCEPTION: For technical reasons that I confess I do not understand, the above warning is NOT true for the subwoofer cross overs. If you change those in Setup / Speaker Configuration after Uploading ARC results, such changes will *NOT* alter ARC's audio. It will only alter audio when you select Room EQ = OFF for some source.]
> 
> 
> In particular, this means you need to Save User Settings and/or Installer Settings after Uploading ARC results to make sure the current levels and crossovers used by ARC in its calculations are saved in those memories. Otherwise, if you Reload User or Installer Settings any differences in the old, saved, cross over or speaker level values will screw up ARC audio.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. I will do as you suggest (and see if I can manage to mess it all up







) Will let you know the outcome.


Ben


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/13870056
> 
> 
> FWIW,
> 
> I had the exact same thing happen once, only able to select DD EX, no DPLIIx option.
> 
> Checked the speaker config and it was set to 6.1 instead of 7.1.
> 
> Corrected the setting and it went back to "normal".
> 
> Hasn't happened since



I checked my speaker configuration and it was set at 6.1.

It must have changed sometime while I was loading v1.31 or ARC, and not reloaded correctly when I reloaded my settings.

I've resetted it to 7.1 and will see if it fixed the problem later when I watch a BR.

Thanks for the heads up Milt99,

Tom


----------



## drmabuse

Don't know if this was posted already but here goes...sorry if it was but I didn't see it.

Brian Florian's review of ARC is up at Secrets and it says everything we have been saying!

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/proce...orrection.html 


/\\/\\


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13877289
> 
> 
> Don't know if this was posted already but here goes...sorry if it was but I didn't see it.
> 
> Brian Florian's review of ARC is up at Secrets and it says everything we have been saying!
> 
> http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/proce...orrection.html
> 
> 
> /\\/\\



From the review:


> Quote:
> Also part of the target settings is the crossover frequency for each speaker. This is one that is really going to ruffle some feathers as, with little exception, ARC will tend to use higher frequencies than people would expect, sometimes much higher



Uh????

Haven't most of us experienced just the opposite?

My crossovers were set quite low, Mains at 35, Center at 50, even the side & rear dipoles were set at 70/75.

I thought I saw others here who were pretty low too.


----------



## The Bogg

Excellent, thanks for the heads-up.


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/13878220
> 
> 
> From the review:
> 
> 
> Uh????
> 
> Haven't most of us experienced just the opposite?
> 
> My crossovers were set quite low, Mains at 35, Center at 50, even the side & rear dipoles were set at 70/75.
> 
> I thought I saw others here who were pretty low too.



Although the Secrets review was very good, I thought the comment on the crossover settings was strange as well. My ARC results for Mains and Center at 50, surrounds at 60.


Did anybody on the board here actually experience a "hole" with the sub low-pass _below_ the high-pass for the mains?


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13867626
> 
> 
> Beware however that if you CHANGE the levels or cross over settings in the Setup menu *AFTER* Uploading ARC results, that such changes will effect ARC audio as well -- meaning the ARC calculations will no longer be valid. The correct way to alter the crossovers is to do it in the ARC "targets". Then re-calculate based on your prior measurements and these new targets and upload the results. You don't have to re-measure. Just change the targets, re-calculate, and Upload the new results.
> 
> 
> [EXCEPTION: For technical reasons that I confess I do not understand, the above warning is NOT true for the subwoofer cross overs. If you change those in Setup / Speaker Configuration after Uploading ARC results, such changes will *NOT* alter ARC's audio. It will only alter audio when you select Room EQ = OFF for some source.]
> 
> 
> In particular, this means you need to Save User Settings and/or Installer Settings after Uploading ARC results to make sure the current levels and crossovers used by ARC in its calculations are saved in those memories. Otherwise, if you Reload User or Installer Settings any differences in the old, saved, cross over or speaker level values will screw up ARC audio.
> 
> --Bob



I knew I should have saved the settings to installer settings! I started to play around with the crossover settings in the setup menu and things sounded different. They did not sound bad, just not right. I thought it would only affect the sound with Room EQ off. Well, this will force me to run ARC again and try the new suggestions by Anthem to get ARC to run on my Vista laptop. If that doesn't work, I'll drag the desktop downstairs (pain in the butt) and run it again.


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13879600
> 
> 
> Although the Secrets review was very good, I thought the comment on the crossover settings was strange as well. My ARC results for Mains and Center at 50, surrounds at 60.
> 
> 
> Did anybody on the board here actually experience a "hole" with the sub low-pass _below_ the high-pass for the mains?



My crossovers were set at 55 mains and center, 65 surrounds. Maybe it just shows that not all speakers will work well in a given room. I bet there are plenty of people with big speakers in small rooms that if they run ARC would get "weird" crossover points.


----------



## ninja12

Well, after 28 days without my D2, it finally arrived back to me on Monday from Anthem. I guess 28 days is not bad since it had to cross the border 2 times. Anyway, I have everything hooked and ready to go. So, last night I ran my ARC, and everything went well. However, when I did the upload, it didn't upload everything correctly. I noticed in the Target View that my sub cross over for Movie was 80, and the sub cross over for Music was 70. After the upload, which was successful according to the pop-up, the sub cross was the same for Movie and Music which was 80. I wonder what else didn't upload successful hhmmmm.... Anyway, I will try the upload again to see what happens. If it does the same thing, I will use my Win2000 machine, which has a dedicated serial cable connection, to upload.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/13880159
> 
> 
> My crossovers were set at 55 mains and center, 65 surrounds. Maybe it just shows that not all speakers will work well in a given room. I bet there are plenty of people with big speakers in small rooms that if they run ARC would get "weird" crossover points.



Maybe but just about everyone who has posted here seems to have the crossovers set below 80hz. I'm really starting to wonder about Brian Florian's setup as it seems to be just the opposite of what most of us have experienced. Does Secrets list their reviewer's setup anywhere? I find the fact that he has a hole between the sub and the mains kind of bizarre. I'll second uppacreek's question; Has anyone else here had ARC set their Mains higher then the subs crossover? For that matter has anyone had ARC set their Mains above 80hz?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/13881843
> 
> 
> Maybe but just about everyone who has posted here seems to have the crossovers set below 80hz. I'm really starting to wonder about Brian Florian's setup as it seems to be just the opposite of what most of us have experienced. Does Secrets list their reviewer's setup anywhere? I find the fact that he has a hole between the sub and the mains kind of bizarre. I'll second uppacreek's question; Has anyone else here had ARC set their Mains higher then the subs crossover? For that matter has anyone had ARC set their Mains above 80hz?



ARC has set my mains at 30, center at 100, surrounds at 110, rears at 105, and sub at 80 for Movies and 75 for Music. ARC has never set my mains higher than my subs.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/13878220
> 
> 
> From the review:
> 
> 
> Uh????
> 
> Haven't most of us experienced just the opposite?
> 
> My crossovers were set quite low, Mains at 35, Center at 50, even the side & rear dipoles were set at 70/75.
> 
> I thought I saw others here who were pretty low too.



No this is audio system and room dependant. My crossover setting obtained with auto detect are at Mains at 40, Center at 150, even the side & Surrounds at 105.


----------



## rkphelps

I'm getting ready to ship my D1 to Anthem to be upgraded to a D1-HD. Do you guys know if I need to send anything other than the D1 itself such as the power cord for the D1. I've heard stories of people not getting power cords back when sending in equipment for service. thanks Rob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/13883638
> 
> 
> No this is audio system and room dependant. My crossover setting obtained with auto detect are at Mains at 40, Center at 150, even the side & Surrounds at 105.



Not sure I understand the reply...

Your Mains are at 40 seems to back up what I'm saying. I realize of course it is going to be system and room dependent, but just about everyone here is saying their mains and often the center and surrounds are being set quite low. Where as the article says "ARC will tend to use higher frequencies than people would expect, sometimes much higher". From what I have seen in my system and most postings here is just the opposite.


Also to my knowledge no one here has reported a hole between their Mains and subwoofer. If would be interesting if we knew more about his room and speakers but his results don't appear to be consistent with what most of us have been seeing.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/13884091
> 
> 
> I'm getting ready to ship my D1 to Anthem to be upgraded to a D1-HD. Do you guys know if I need to send anything other than the D1 itself such as the power cord for the D1. I've heard stories of people not getting power cords back when sending in equipment for service. thanks Rob



I sent my D2 back to Anthem, and I only sent my D2 and the power cord. When it returned, the power cord was in the box too. My complete turn around took 28 days.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/13884091
> 
> 
> I'm getting ready to ship my D1 to Anthem to be upgraded to a D1-HD. Do you guys know if I need to send anything other than the D1 itself such as the power cord for the D1. I've heard stories of people not getting power cords back when sending in equipment for service. thanks Rob



Send back only the unit. All other accessories are available to Anthem techs.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/13881843
> 
> 
> Maybe but just about everyone who has posted here seems to have the crossovers set below 80hz. I'm really starting to wonder about Brian Florian's setup as it seems to be just the opposite of what most of us have experienced. Does Secrets list their reviewer's setup anywhere? I find the fact that he has a hole between the sub and the mains kind of bizarre. I'll second uppacreek's question; Has anyone else here had ARC set their Mains higher then the subs crossover? For that matter has anyone had ARC set their Mains above 80hz?



When my spacing between mic measurements was only about a foot, my xover for fronts were set to 150 by arc-1. When I spaced out the mic position to 2 feet apart, it set my xover for my fronts to 35. When my mic positioning was too close I got really weird response curves as well.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13885906
> 
> 
> When my spacing between mic measurements was only about a foot, my xover for fronts were set to 150 by arc-1. When I spaced out the mic position to 2 feet apart, it set my xover for my fronts to 35. When my mic positioning was too close I got really weird response curves as well.
> 
> 
> John



I suspect when the mic positions are too close together, ARC isn't seeing enough variation between locations to distinguish room response (which should vary significantly in the bass frequencies across spaced locations) with poor, inherent speaker performance, particularly in the bass range. So it mistakenly sees those speakers as poor bass performers and raises the crossover for them to keep from driving them in that frequency range.


It is also possible, I suppose, that you could be unlucky enough to hit the same nulls and peaks even at well spaced mic locations (again tricking ARC into thinking room response is actually poor speaker performance), but this should be rare.


I believe ARC also has some built-in logic to reject variations that are TOO great from location to location, as might happen if you set up the mic against a wall for example.


------------------------------


Meanwhile, I'm not sure that ARC is all that good at detecting speakers that go low, but only with distortion. I'm pretty sure ARC assumes that normal volume drop-off from such speakers (as frequency decreases) will happen before distortion kicks in. But I can imagine cases where that might not be what's happening.


And thus if you have some lesser performing speakers in your setup that just happen to put out a lot of distorted bass, ARC may set the crossovers lower than really makes sense for those. A typical rule of thumb for manual setups is to keep the crossover for a main speaker at or above twice the lowest rated frequency for that speaker (i.e., the lowest frequency it is rated to reproduce without significant distortion). Similar, the sub crossover should be at or below half its top rated frequency. The idea is to give some safety margin for quality reproduction beyond the cross over since cross overs are not hard cutoffs.


Again, these are just rules of thumb. But if you find ARC being too optimistic about what your speakers or sub can do, you might want to split the difference between what ARC chooses and the rule of thumb and see how that sounds once you recalculate and re-upload the ARC results.


(This is for all you D2 owners who are using spare "boom boxes" as surround speakers...)









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/13880065
> 
> 
> I knew I should have saved the settings to installer settings! I started to play around with the crossover settings in the setup menu and things sounded different. They did not sound bad, just not right. I thought it would only affect the sound with Room EQ off. Well, this will force me to run ARC again and try the new suggestions by Anthem to get ARC to run on my Vista laptop. If that doesn't work, I'll drag the desktop downstairs (pain in the butt) and run it again.



If you like your previous results, you can just have ARC re-Upload the prior results for you.


Run ARC in the Advanced mode, open the saved file containing your last set of ARC calculations, and tell ARC to Upload that. No need to remeasure.


This will undo any changes you made in the Setup menu to cross overs and speaker levels since you last Uploaded ARC results.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've completed my calibration comparison for HDMI connections from my Pioneer Elite 59avi DVD player and my Comcast/Motorola DCT3412 HD-DVR.


I've now got new found disgust for how much Comcast can manage to screw up HDTV broadcasts from channel to channel, program to program on the same channel, and even reruns of the same program on the same channel! Every comparison I've made between any good quality SD-DVDs I have and HDTV versions of the same movie have the SD-DVD imaging quality winning.


It's not even close.


Nevertheless, the HDTV, and perhaps even more surprising the SDTV, look very good indeed (excluding REALLY screwed up transmissions)! If I didn't have the better SD-DVD stuff to compare against it would be easy to accept.


I'll be quite interested to see how my Blu-Ray comparisons turn out in June. Getting Comcast's screw ups out of the signal path will be a big win of course, but the real fun will be seeing what, if any, imaging improvements show up between Blu-Ray and my current SD-DVD setup for good transfers in both formats.


----------------------------------------


RESULTS


As it turns out, the best results for HDMI setup are *MUCH* closer than I previously reported. My earlier results were biased by some particularly inept Comcast retransmissions. This is actually quite encouraging, as it matches my expectation that there should be little or no variation in "best" HDMI setup from different source boxes -- a situation that is only rarely found when using Component from different boxes.


It's impossible to do real A/B comparisons between my prior V1.11 firmware and the V1.31c I'm using now, but I remain convinced that for this setup V1.31c results in significant imaging improvements (both in transparency and color rendition). I don't believe that is just viewer bias. I think Anthem fixed some bugs or rolled in some code improvements in the video processor firmware.



DVD setup:

Note: The 59avi's internal settings have been optimized for correct HDMI 480i output (see its player thread) so that it is passing along what is coming off the disc virtually unchanged. The 59avi's factory defaults work fine EXCEPT for HDMI 480i output. EXCEPTION: I have its Noise Reduction turned on at its lowest setting.

HDMI 480i -- Studio RGB (this is a limitation of the Pioneer rather than a choice)

Video Source Adjust / Picture: Brightness 50, Contrast 48, Color 51, Tint 48


Comcast Setup:

HDMI 480i / HDMI 1080i for SD or HD (not also having 720p is a Motorola limitation). YCbCr 4:4:4 (4:2:2 not available).

Video Source Adjust / Picture: Brightnesss 49, Contrast 49, Color 51, Tint 48


Settings in Common for both inputs:

Video Source Adjust / Input Color Space: Auto YCbCr, Studio RGB

Video Source Adjust / Output: Gamma Correction Exponential 114

Video Source Adjust / Film Mode = Auto

Video Source Adjust / Picture: Chroma Bug Filter = OFF

Video Source Adjust / Output: Frame Lock = OFF

Setup / Source Setup : HDMI Repeater = NO

(Input Noise Reduction and Edge Enhancement are at factory defaults).


Video Output:

HDMI 1360x768p/60, Studio RGB (to a Fujitsu DVI plasma, thus the RGB), HDTV color space, Preferred = HDMI.

I have my plasma's level memories set separately for daytime and nighttime viewing, with the nighttime settings being refined for critical viewing in a darkened room. The same input device and Anthem settings work equally well for both of these plasma setups, but of course, the nighttime settings look better in home theater use. Nevertheless, the daytime settings are quite pleasing indeed -- certainly useful for enjoying a movie in a well lit room. The trick is to setup the entire path for the nighttime stuff first and then adjust ONLY the display settings for daytime use.


----------------------------------------


I continue to be impressed with the best I can get for SDTV broadcasts. Now of course many SDTV broadcasts are damaged to begin with, but for the ones that are good, the imaging quality can be quite good indeed. Not up to what i can get from the SD-DVD setup, but still lots of fun to watch. This is particularly good if you are a fan of old movies. The trick is to not compromise your setup to make crappier SDTV broadcasts look better. Calibrate for the best imaging from the best SDTV broadcasts and let lesser broadcasts fend for themselves.


The best calibration for SDTV and HDTV from the Comcast box appears to be identical.


I also calibrated Component video from the Comcast box. In my box, the best calibration happened to match the HDMI calibration. There's no reason why this must be so, but it worked for my box.


I am still seeing better imaging from the HDMI connection however. There are slightly smoother ramps for Component which may imply filtering on the Component outputs or simply that the Comcast box has some one-off bugs in its output HDMI values (i.e., certain pixels values are output one off from what they should be) which don't exist for Component output. But HDMI also has better horizontal resolution (which again implies unwanted Component output filtering in the Comcast's video DACs). In the end, I'm sticking with HDMI video despite handshake delays. I use optical cable for audio from the Comcast box to remove the extra delay for startup of audio after any HDMI handshake.


I'm using the "simple" Exponential Gamma Correction in the D2, and it is working quite well in my setup. However, I believe that if I did a proper optical sensor measurement of gray and color step charts and built custom correction curves in the D2 I might get even better results. That's for some future pass at this stuff however.


Just be sure you are judging Gamma related stuff based on reference quality content -- e.g., not a damaged Comcast broadcast.


For those that don't know, if you are seeing banding in what should be smoothly ramping portions of a static image (e.g., night sky from brighter horizon upwards to darker zenith) this is generally NOT so much a fault of the disc/broadcast format or of your display as it is a symptom of incorrect Black and White level settings -- and in the Gamma curve that runs between them. In addition, proper Gamma correction makes for much more "natural" and "transparent" imaging. Just remember you need to iterate adjusting Gamma with adjusting Brightness and Contrast in your display as Gamma correction changes in the Anthem also alter the Black and White output levels of the Anthem as well.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

Does anyone know where I can get a shorter mic stand that will fit the mic clip that comes with the ARC-1? The mic statnd is too tall. At its' lowest position, it's still about 6 inches above ear level.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13895085
> 
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get a shorter mic stand that will fit the mic clip that comes with the ARC-1? The mic statnd is too tall. At its' lowest position, it's still about 6 inches above ear level.



If you get a typical camera tripod with a removable pan head (e.g., Gitzo brand comes to mine) the screw that holds the pan head to the top of the tripod should fit the thread of the mic clip from the Anthem supplied mic stand.


You can get very compact camera tripods like this that are intended for table top use for example. Obviously you don't need to pay for anything super fancy here.


Again, it's not the mounting screw on top of the pan head itself that matters (i.e., the one that attaches a camera to the pan head), but rather the mounting thread that attaches the bottom of the pan head itself to the tripod.

--Bob


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/13895085
> 
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get a shorter mic stand that will fit the mic clip that comes with the ARC-1? The mic statnd is too tall. At its' lowest position, it's still about 6 inches above ear level.



This tripod microphone stand works well for $30. The boom lets me place the stand behind or in front of the seat yet position the mic exactly where I want it, plus it keeps the mic height constant.


----------



## gtimbers

I have a problem with my D2 (1.31) and an Apple TV. It won't pass a picture or play the sound through the HDMI connection. The A-TV works directly with my Pioneer and my RS1 if I bypass the D2. Is this a known issue? I want to use the HDMI for the audio as the A-TV only has an optical output otherwise. Interestingly enough, a Mac mini will operate through the D2, at least as a Mac. It will not pass Window XP running with boot camp. The Pioneer has no problem with either.


A related but more distressing issue is that the D2 appears to be native 720p. When I hook up a Mac mini to either of my displays, it configures itself to the native resolution of the display. This is how Mac's work. (1360 x 768 for the plasma, and 1920 x 1080 for the JVC). When I run through the D2, the computer selects 720 as the native output regardless of what video display is connected to it. This would imply to me that the D2 is native 720 and will down-res everything to 720 and then up them to whatever output has been selected in the Video Output configuration. If this is true, I am doing myself a disservice by running my video through the Anthem.


I suspect the second question is one for Bob who seems to be at one with the workings of the D2. If memory serves me, he also has the good taste to use Mac's.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtimbers* /forum/post/13897139
> 
> 
> I have a problem with my D2 (1.31) and an Apple TV. It won't pass a picture or play the sound through the HDMI connection. The A-TV works directly with my Pioneer and my RS1 if I bypass the D2. Is this a known issue? I want to use the HDMI for the audio as the A-TV only has an optical output otherwise. Interestingly enough, a Mac mini will operate through the D2, at least as a Mac. It will not pass Window XP running with boot camp. The Pioneer has no problem with either.
> 
> 
> A related but more distressing issue is that the D2 appears to be native 720p. When I hook up a Mac mini to either of my displays, it configures itself to the native resolution of the display. This is how Mac's work. (1360 x 768 for the plasma, and 1920 x 1080 for the JVC). When I run through the D2, the computer selects 720 as the native output regardless of what video display is connected to it. This would imply to me that the D2 is native 720 and will down-res everything to 720 and then up them to whatever output has been selected in the Video Output configuration. If this is true, I am doing myself a disservice by running my video through the Anthem.
> 
> 
> I suspect the second question is one for Bob who seems to be at one with the workings of the D2. If memory serves me, he also has the good taste to use Mac's.



Many people have reported HDMI problems trying to run AppleTV through various receivers and pre-pros, including but certainly not limited to the Anthems.


I haven't been following what is known about this issue or whether there are any workarounds other than to use Component video and optical digital audio. Understand that you lose nothing using optical digital audio. It carries the identical digital audio content to what AppleTV would send over HDMI.


-----------------------------------


A video processor doesn't have a "native" resolution the same way a display has. There is no physical hardware matrix representing the preferred resolution of the image. However the D2 and AVM50 automatically scale any video fed to their scaler to 1080p prior to doing any output related processing. The max internal resolution of the Anthems is 1920x1080p/60. This is also the max they will accept over HDMI. Component connections can "pass through" 1080p/60, but processed Component input or output is limited to 1080p/30. (You can input Component 1080p/30 and process it to HDMI 1080p/60 output for example.)


During the HDMI handshake, the Anthems simply respond to the query as to what resolutions they can accept. The entire list is returned. The source device then decides the best fit if asked to do so. If the Mac products can't send out 1080p, then they may select 720p as preferable to 1080i or some less standard resolution. Computers generally don't like to send out interlaced video.


In general, the HDMI handshake with computers is tricky as computers aren't expecting the range of choices a video processor will offer. In addition, computers often change their output resolution as they power up which further complicates the handshake. The Gefen "DVI Detective" product has proven useful to a number of posters here. It sits between the computer and the Anthem and forces certain choices during the handshake (which usually makes the computer happier).

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtimbers* /forum/post/13897139
> 
> 
> I have a problem with my D2 (1.31) and an Apple TV. It won't pass a picture or play the sound through the HDMI connection.



It doesn't matter what version of Anthem FW you

have. AppleTV Over HDMI is broken. I can't even

get AppleTV over HDMI to connect direct to my

Apple Cinema Display. Apple really screwed up

the AppleTV HDMI.


I use component to the D2. Native resolution of

the AppleTV is 720p. Yes in theory it can output

1080i and 1080p - but then it is doing the up

converting versus the D2.


----------



## zzzzdoc

Is it possible to use a serial Y-cable attached to the RS-232 port on the D2, and attached on the other end to an AMX system (full-time), and every once in a while attached to a laptop to do ARC and/or firmware updates.


What would happen to the D2 if it got a query from the AMX during firmware updating, or ARC running?


It's a real pain to pull my racks out, and if I could avoid that, it would be extremely helpful.


Never tried that before, so I'm curious if it could work.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/13898645
> 
> 
> Is it possible to use a serial Y-cable attached to the RS-232 port on the D2, and attached on the other end to an AMX system (full-time), and every once in a while attached to a laptop to do ARC and/or firmware updates.
> 
> 
> What would happen to the D2 if it got a query from the AMX during firmware updating, or ARC running?
> 
> 
> It's a real pain to pull my racks out, and if I could avoid that, it would be extremely helpful.
> 
> 
> Never tried that before, so I'm curious if it could work.



It would be much better to use an inexpensive, RS-232, manual, two-way switch box. That way when you are using the computer side of it you won't have the computer and the AMX sockets electrically connected to each other as a Y cable would do. Make sure the switch box you get retains the "straight through" nature of the connection -- pins 1-9 in connected to pins 1-9 out with no wires swapped.


Of course that means you won't be able to use the AMX setup for control while using the computer.


You DEFINITELY don't want any AMX commands arriving during a firmware update or ARC upload.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/13898645
> 
> 
> Is it possible to use a serial Y-cable attached to the RS-232 port on the D2,



Bob's answer is the best one.


Y-Cables cause a signal conflict. They don't work for RS-232.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13899784
> 
> 
> It would be much better to use an inexpensive, RS-232, manual, two-way switch box. That way when you are using the computer side of it you won't have the computer and the AMX sockets electrically connected to each other as a Y cable would do. Make sure the switch box you get retains the "straight through" nature of the connection -- pins 1-9 in connected to pins 1-9 out with no wires swapped.
> 
> 
> Of course that means you won't be able to use the AMX setup for control while using the computer.
> 
> 
> You DEFINITELY don't want any AMX commands arriving during a firmware update or ARC upload.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Doh!!!!!!


I have no idea why I didn't think of that solution. Going to hang my head all afternoon. Thanks. Staring me in the face and never saw it.


.....


(Leaves, head hanging down, shuffling away dejected...)


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13894704
> 
> 
> I've completed my calibration comparison for HDMI connections from my Pioneer Elite 59avi DVD player and my Comcast/Motorola DCT3412 HD-DVR.
> 
> 
> I've now got new found disgust for how much Comcast can manage to screw up HDTV broadcasts from channel to channel, program to program on the same channel, and even reruns of the same program on the same channel! Every comparison I've made between any good quality SD-DVDs I have and HDTV versions of the same movie have the SD-DVD imaging quality winning.
> 
> 
> It's not even close.
> 
> 
> Nevertheless, the HDTV, and perhaps even more surprising the SDTV, look very good indeed (excluding REALLY screwed up transmissions)! If I didn't have the better SD-DVD stuff to compare against it would be easy to accept.
> 
> 
> --Bob



I thought I had a fairly good grasp of the different technologies. I am now totally confused.

I have the following equipment

Comcast cable and a Motorola DCT6412 III DVR

My Anthem D2 w/ v1.31

Oppo 983

Popcorn Hour Network Media Tank

JVC D-VHS

Sony Qualia 006



Understand also I am not a proponent of Comcast but there is no better alternative at present for OTA etc.


I was told that the native digital cable signal from Comcast is 1080i.

1080i into the Anthem gives me the best results barring screw ups with the networks themselves. So far I have not noticed or found Comcast compressing the signal in my area as they have done other places.

Why would you change the native 1080i to 480i and then process it again for your display ?


I had a Pioneer 59avi and a Toshiba HD-A35 hd-dvd and neither are as good as the Oppo 983. And still the SD DVD can not compare to the Comcast

HD signal, the Popcorn Hour or the JVC D-VHS.

There does not appear to be any way that when you start with a 480i source any amount of processing to 720 or 1080 will equal the rsolution of a HD source.


----------



## Whitl

I have D1-HD and have lost output to the subs. I have 2 subs in the system and one RCA connector got damage on the cable, after replacing the connector and hooking the second sub back up I have neither work. Even when testing the speaker levels in the setup menu there is no output what so ever, any ideas, all cables are fine, all settings on the subs themselves never changed, it just like all of a sudden the D1 doesn't know that the subs are in the system.


----------



## ninja12

Bob and 3no,


Thanks for the replies.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/13901764
> 
> 
> I thought I had a fairly good grasp of the different technologies. I am now totally confused.
> 
> I have the following equipment
> 
> Comcast cable and a Motorola DCT6412 III DVR
> 
> My Anthem D2 w/ v1.31
> 
> Oppo 983
> 
> Popcorn Hour Network Media Tank
> 
> JVC D-VHS
> 
> Sony Qualia 006
> 
> 
> 
> Understand also I am not a proponent of Comcast but there is no better alternative at present for OTA etc.
> 
> 
> I was told that the native digital cable signal from Comcast is 1080i.
> 
> 1080i into the Anthem gives me the best results barring screw ups with the networks themselves. So far I have not noticed or found Comcast compressing the signal in my area as they have done other places.
> 
> Why would you change the native 1080i to 480i and then process it again for your display ?
> 
> 
> I had a Pioneer 59avi and a Toshiba HD-A35 hd-dvd and neither are as good as the Oppo 983. And still the SD DVD can not compare to the Comcast
> 
> HD signal, the Popcorn Hour or the JVC D-VHS.
> 
> There does not appear to be any way that when you start with a 480i source any amount of processing to 720 or 1080 will equal the rsolution of a HD source.



I assure you Comcast does not waste 1080i bandwidth broadcasting its SD channels. It sends those as 480i. Sending SD channels over the cable as 1080i would dramatically reduce their overall channel carrying capacity.


For best imaging from the Comcast, set it to send out HDMI 480i when viewing an SD channel and HDMI 1080i when viewing an HD channel.


To do this, Power down the Comcast with its remote. Then, while it is still powered down, hit the Menu button on its remote. This will bring up it's output configuration menu.


Select 16:9 TV on the first line, 1080i as the normal resolution on the second line, and then 480i as the override resolution on the third line. Then go down to the additional HDMI settings line and select that to go to the extra HDMI/DVI settings page. In there, you want HDMI, YCbCr 4:4:4, and Auto audio. Go down to the line to return to the first menu page and select that.


Now hit the Menu button again. This will save your settings and power off the Comcast again. Power it back on using its remote.


Now the Comcast will switch between HDMI 480i or 1080i depending on whether or not you are watching an SD channel. This will cause a new HDMI handshake every time it changes (a few seconds of screwed up video).


Run optical audio cable from the Comcast to the Anthem and use that for digital audio instead of the audio on the HDMI cable. This avoids the EXTRA couple seconds delay before audio starts up after the HDMI video handshake completes.


Setting things up this way means you are avoiding Comcast's de-interlacer and scaler for SD broadcasts and allowing the Anthem to do that work -- which is a good thing. You will, unfortunately, still be using the Comcast's scaler whenever you change to any HDTV channel that happens to be broadcasting in 720p at the moment (which, yes, comes over the cable as 720p), but there's no convenient way of getting around that with the Comcast hardware.


-----------------------------------------


Comcast's capacity varies from market to market, and thus their re-compression of the signal also varies. The quality of the cable infrastructure and the production engineering that manage the signals also vary from market to market. The fact that you have a 6412 (rather than a 3412) implies, for example, that you are in a market which still has a mix of both analog and digital programming on the same cable (with possibly some digital tier simulcasts of the otherwise analog program as well). In my area they've gone all digital and they are apparently having real problems with digital bandwidth through their systems. So they are re-compressing some channels (bit starving them). But most of the screw ups I was talking about are simply mistakes in the way they are configuring their retransmissions from hour to hour -- which is why the quality is varying even on a given channel from program to program.


For some reason Stars-HD appears to be getting beaten up the most right now. What they are doing to Stars-HD broadcasts is not just a matter of re-compression. They are sending out some programs with dramatically incorrect black and white levels and screwed up color balance. They are even sending out some programs with missing 5.1 audio -- entirely missing or just some speakers missing.


Even their "On Demand" HD feeds are getting screwed up.


DirecTV satellite used to be notorious for one symptom of their channel capacity limits back a while ago for example. During football season they would reconfigure mid-week to add the extra HD channels to carry extra charge football games. And from that point until the configured back again Sunday evening, their other, normal HD channels all suffered.


I suspect Comcast, in my area, is suffering some of the same sorts of problems. They are just being a bit heavy handed in what they are allowing to happen to their "normal" HD channels.


In any event, bit-starving of HD movies in my Comcast market is not hard to spot. HBO-HD seems to be getting the cleanest re-transmission. And the damage that Comcast is doing to those movies overwhelms any gain from the additional resolution.


-------------------------------------------


The Pioneer 59avi should be set to send HDMI 480i to the Anthems. It is capable of producing truly outstanding imaging that way. But you DO have to make some adjustments to its factory default settings when you use HDMI 480i to avoid both black and white crush. This is ONLY an issue for HDMI 480i output. See its player thread.


When set up properly, and carefully calibrated through the Anthem to the display, the 59avi is capable of producing simply outstanding SD-DVD imaging.


Be careful you are not trying to compare SD movies to live HD broadcasts. Movies are intentionally made with a softer look than the live stuff. This gives properly calibrated SD movies a leg up in comparison with HD movies. But the HD live stuff will still look a lot better.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/13901832
> 
> 
> I have D1-HD and have lost output to the subs. I have 2 subs in the system and one RCA connector got damage on the cable, after replacing the connector and hooking the second sub back up I have neither work. Even when testing the speaker levels in the setup menu there is no output what so ever, any ideas, all cables are fine, all settings on the subs themselves never changed, it just like all of a sudden the D1 doesn't know that the subs are in the system.



If the cable damage shorted the cable, you may have damaged the subwoofer output circuit of the D1-HD.


Try temporarily hooking up the subwoofer output of the D1-HD through the power amp to one of your main speakers, and testing it at low volume to see if any audio is being output from it. The main speakers should be able to reproduce enough bass near the cross over frequency to detect this.


If that test proves subwoofer audio is coming out of the D1-HD, re-check your normal connection to the subwoofer. It is possible you have mistakenly used a power amp level input on the subwoofer (i.e., bypassing the amp built-into the subwoofer) instead of the correct, line-level input.


If no audio appears to be coming out of the D1-HD's subwoofer jack, be sure you have your settings saved in Setup / Save and Reload Settings / Save User Settings, and then, in that same menu, Reload Factory defaults.


Now go in to Setup / Speaker Configuration and confirm a subwoofer is specified, and then into Setup / Level Calibration to try again to get output from that jack. If you still can't get output, your D1-HD may need hardware service. Contact Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

So I'm thinking the forthcoming Pioneer may be the "best" Blu-Ray player to get to pair with an Anthem. If this "Pure Cinema" function operates like people say, it will automatically output 480i, 1080i60, or 1080p24, depending on the type of disc you are playing (DVD or BD) and what is encoded on the disc. This is unlike the Denon, where you would have to manually select 480i each time you play a DVD, if you wanted Gennum processing and not both Realta and Gennum processing. (As a sidelight, one of the things I wish could be improved on the D2 would be the option to "turn off" Gennum scaling if you had a player with a Realta, since having both chips doing their thing to the signal doesn't seem like a good idea to me...) And the Pio brochures indicate that they will decode ALL of the various codecs including DD+ and DTS-HR, which the Denon doesn't, once they receive the promised firmware upgrade. So I think this will be my chance to get rid of my PS3 (finally!) The key issue for me is when will that firmware upgrade happen?


----------



## Rayjr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/13906218
> 
> 
> So I'm thinking the forthcoming Pioneer may be the "best" Blu-Ray player to get to pair with an Anthem. If this "Pure Cinema" function operates like people say, it will automatically output 480i, 1080i60, or 1080p24, depending on the type of disc you are playing (DVD or BD) and what is encoded on the disc.



This is exactly what the sony S300 does right now....and as I understand it..so will the new upcoming S350 and S550. Sony calls it "direct mode"


RayJr


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/13906218
> 
> 
> So I'm thinking the forthcoming Pioneer may be the "best" Blu-Ray player to get to pair with an Anthem. If this "Pure Cinema" function operates like people say, it will automatically output 480i, 1080i60, or 1080p24, depending on the type of disc you are playing (DVD or BD) and what is encoded on the disc. This is unlike the Denon, where you would have to manually select 480i each time you play a DVD, if you wanted Gennum processing and not both Realta and Gennum processing. (As a sidelight, one of the things I wish could be improved on the D2 would be the option to "turn off" Gennum scaling if you had a player with a Realta, since having both chips doing their thing to the signal doesn't seem like a good idea to me...) And the Pio brochures indicate that they will decode ALL of the various codecs including DD+ and DTS-HR, which the Denon doesn't, once they receive the promised firmware upgrade. So I think this will be my chance to get rid of my PS3 (finally!) The key issue for me is when will that firmware upgrade happen?



I find it a problem paying the kind of money Pioneer will ask for when the player is not Blu-Ray player profile 2.0 and never can be (i.e., no ethernet port). I'm also not thrilled at paying the extra component costs for high end analog video/audio output from the player that we would not be using when paired over HDMI with the D2.


An alternative would be to complement your PS3 with a top quality, separate player for standard DVDs such as the Oppo. This is a relatively inexpensive way to cover the bases at least until the next wave of Blu-Ray players.


Is there some other reason you want to stop using the PS3 as a Blu-Ray player paired with the Anthem?

--Bob


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13908320
> 
> 
> I find it a problem paying the kind of money Pioneer will ask for when the player is not Blu-Ray player profile 2.0 and never can be (i.e., no ethernet port). I'm also not thrilled at paying the extra component costs for high end analog video/audio output from the player that we would not be using when paired over HDMI with the D2.
> 
> 
> An alternative would be to complement your PS3 with a top quality, separate player for standard DVDs such as the Oppo. This is a relatively inexpensive way to cover the bases at least until the next wave of Blu-Ray players.
> 
> 
> Is there some other reason you want to stop using the PS3 as a Blu-Ray player paired with the Anthem?
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I see you frequenting many of the BD player threads lately, so I guess you are mulling over what to do, too.


I hate to diagree with you, but I can't imagine you will be happy with the PS3. I am on my second 80G unit and it is still really loud. I can easily hear it from my listening seat. I called Sony and they will let me ship it to them, but they don't promised a new unit, they will refurbish it. And it would take a few weeks to do. So maybe there are some quiet PS3's out there, I'm not sure if I believe it based on my experience. Maybe the "new" 80G will be better, maybe not. I bought the 80G because I thought it would be fun to experiment with the SACD DSD->PCM conversion (which Sony engineers claim they spent a lot of time on to make it really good) with the HDMI link to my D2. But the PS3 is so loud I can't do any serious "audiophile" listening with it anyway.


Also, I have one of those BT->IR USB converters. Although it does map all the keys except the PS button to my Harmony remote (and the new version does fixes that), it is still a pain to use as a DVD or BD player. It is often confusing to go back and forth between the disc menus and the PS3 menus, and many times I have to hunt for the "X" or "O" key to do what I want. Yes, those keys are now on my Harmony. But what I really what is to press play and have the disc play, and press stop and have the disc stop playing. And it is just not that convenient.


Not new complaints, I know. But the upgradability of the PS3, while a great thing, does not make up for these two issues after using it for several months.


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13908320
> 
> 
> I find it a problem paying the kind of money Pioneer will ask for when the player is not Blu-Ray player profile 2.0 and never can be (i.e., no ethernet port). I'm also not thrilled at paying the extra component costs for high end analog video/audio output from the player that we would not be using when paired over HDMI with the D2.
> 
> 
> An alternative would be to complement your PS3 with a top quality, separate player for standard DVDs such as the Oppo. This is a relatively inexpensive way to cover the bases at least until the next wave of Blu-Ray players.
> 
> 
> Is there some other reason you want to stop using the PS3 as a Blu-Ray player paired with the Anthem?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


You'll sleep better at night thinking that V 2.0 is more of a negative than anything else. It is simply a spam input. I opted to buy 1.1 as I can't imagine actually waiting to get a spam input. HD DVD had this feature and it ended up slowing down the player, causing lock ups and offering useless extras.


I bought the permanently 1.1 Denon 3800 and yet prefer to use my Oppo for SD DVD despite the good processing. I wanted a solid built player with high quality parts and DTS MA LPCM. I got everything I wanted and am happy.


I am sure the less priced Pioneer will be a excellent player, too, and you'll be happy with it. The PS3 isn't really a good option if you care about your noise floor or ergonomics. Besides its a game player first and foremost.


Don't lose sleep over 2.0. It is simply a marketing update, spam input or virus catcher.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/13910586
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I see you frequenting many of the BD player threads lately, so I guess you are mulling over what to do, too.
> 
> 
> I hate to diagree with you, but I can't imagine you will be happy with the PS3. I am on my second 80G unit and it is still really loud. I can easily hear it from my listening seat. I called Sony and they will let me ship it to them, but they don't promised a new unit, they will refurbish it. And it would take a few weeks to do. So maybe there are some quiet PS3's out there, I'm not sure if I believe it based on my experience. Maybe the "new" 80G will be better, maybe not. I bought the 80G because I thought it would be fun to experiment with the SACD DSD->PCM conversion (which Sony engineers claim they spent a lot of time on to make it really good) with the HDMI link to my D2. But the PS3 is so loud I can't do any serious "audiophile" listening with it anyway.
> 
> 
> Also, I have one of those BT->IR USB converters. Although it does map all the keys except the PS button to my Harmony remote (and the new version does fixes that), it is still a pain to use as a DVD or BD player. It is often confusing to go back and forth between the disc menus and the PS3 menus, and many times I have to hunt for the "X" or "O" key to do what I want. Yes, those keys are now on my Harmony. But what I really what is to press play and have the disc play, and press stop and have the disc stop playing. And it is just not that convenient.
> 
> 
> Not new complaints, I know. But the upgradability of the PS3, while a great thing, does not make up for these two issues after using it for several months.



Yes if you have one of the original 80GB units (now discontinued), I'm not surprised that the fan noise is a deal breaker. Fan noise is my single biggest concern right now. I've heard what the PS3 sounds like when its fan kicks up to high, and it is ridiculously loud.


The 40GB units that replaced the older 80GB units use a new generation of their processing chips which run significantly cooler. You can still overheat the unit by enclosing it, but all the evidence I've found so far is that if you place it reasonably the 40GB units are essentially silent for Blu-Ray playback (with their V2.3 firmware).


Nobody really knows whether the 80GB units about to be re-introduced in June also use the new chips or are simply restarted production of the design based on the old chips. If it is the new chip design, it should run as cool as the current 40GB units. Sony has good reason to switch to the new design because the new chips cost less and so they lose less money on each console sale. But Sony has been very tight lipped about what, if any, electronics changes might have been made for this re-introduction of the 80GB so this is all speculation.


I plan on getting a "new" 80GB unit from a place with an easy return policy, and if it is noisy then back it goes and I'll try a 40GB unit.


I do not intend to use the PS3 for standard DVD playback. I'm positive I can do better with my older Pioneer Elite 59avi sending HDMI 480i to the D2 (which you can't do with any PS3). Even if I didn't have the Pioneer, I'd probably get an Oppo to set up with the PS3.


The remote control stuff will be an interesting exercise. I plan on using the IR2BT box with a Harmony remote. I'll also have Sony's accessory BlueTooth remote for BD playback for comparison. From what I can tell without actually owning one yet, using their BlueTooth BD playback remote you can do all the sorts of things you would normally want to do with a standalone Blu-Ray player, and so the IR2BT *OUGHT* to be able to do that as well. We shall see.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/13910672
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> You'll sleep better at night thinking that V 2.0 is more of a negative than anything else. It is simply a spam input. I opted to buy 1.1 as I can't imagine actually waiting to get a spam input. HD DVD had this feature and it ended up slowing down the player, causing lock ups and offering useless extras.
> 
> 
> I bought the permanently 1.1 Denon 3800 and yet prefer to use my Oppo for SD DVD despite the good processing. I wanted a solid built player with high quality parts and DTS MA LPCM. I got everything I wanted and am happy.
> 
> 
> I am sure the less priced Pioneer will be a excellent player, too, and you'll be happy with it. The PS3 isn't really a good option if you care about your noise floor or ergonomics. Besides its a game player first and foremost.
> 
> 
> Don't lose sleep over 2.0. It is simply a marketing update, spam input or virus catcher.



Well we've talked about this before. I view 2.0 as valueless right now, but there is potential there for future value. In any event, it is clear it is intended to be a part of the "real" Blu-Ray player specification.


I just think it's silly for any manufacturer to release a player right now that can't be upgraded to 2.0. It makes me wonder what other corners they cut to help "differentiate" this player against the players they are going to launch towards the end of the year.


I'm curious, though, have you had a chance to compare disc load performance and menu responsiveness performance on the Denon vs. a PS3?

--Bob


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/13910672
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> You'll sleep better at night thinking that V 2.0 is more of a negative than anything else. It is simply a spam input. I opted to buy 1.1 as I can't imagine actually waiting to get a spam input. HD DVD had this feature and it ended up slowing down the player, causing lock ups and offering useless extras.
> 
> 
> I bought the permanently 1.1 Denon 3800 and yet prefer to use my Oppo for SD DVD despite the good processing. I wanted a solid built player with high quality parts and DTS MA LPCM. I got everything I wanted and am happy.
> 
> 
> I am sure the less priced Pioneer will be a excellent player, too, and you'll be happy with it. The PS3 isn't really a good option if you care about your noise floor or ergonomics. Besides its a game player first and foremost.
> 
> 
> Don't lose sleep over 2.0. It is simply a marketing update, spam input or virus catcher.




I agree with this sentiment on 2.0, the only proviso is that I hope 1.1 players will not have problems with playback of some future heavily feature laden 2.0 discs.


I would buy the Denon tomorrow, except I am not happy about the lack of DD+ and DTS-HR decoding. Yes, I know there aren't that many discs out with this "flavor" of encode, but the concept the 3800 doesn't decode these annoys me. And if down the line a disc I really want uses them, I'll really be p*****.


The other issue is this Realta/Gennum thing. Ideally, I would like to have the ability to switch easily between which chip I use to scale which disc. And I can't imagine scaling the image twice is a good thing. It would be nice to be able to set the 3800 to automatically output 480i for DVD and 1080p24 for BD, or automatically output 1080p60 for DVD and 1080p24 for BD (although then I wish I could turn off the D2 Gennum scaling). I don't necesaarily object to paying for owning both scaling solutions, but I would like to use just one at a time! I think the Pioneer addresses this with the Pure cinema function, and the Pio51 is not going to be "that" expensive. And available before the 05.


----------



## thebland

Bob,

A first gen 2.0 player won't be the be all end all either. As soon as you buy it, there will be another essential feature on the next model 6 mos down the road. 2.0 in the whole scheme things is and will be a feature that few use. You may find the processor speed in the first 2.0 player is too slow or buggy and the next model will be further enhanced. I don't know if the 1st 2.0 player is the right time to jump. The first 2.0 player will still be a first gen player. My prediction


Buy a player with good video, audio, and solid ergonomics and you won't look back.


I haven't tried the PS3 so can't comment on load times but the Denon is years ahead of my my Panny and 'fast enough' for me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There's no doubt we are still in the early adopter phase of Blu-Ray. The difference however is that profile 2.0 is part of the Blu-Ray specification as opposed to being either a better implementation of established features or some proprietary, brand specific, new feature.


I view the first batch of profile 2.0 players as the first "real" Blu-Ray players, and thus if you are a "conservative" early adopter, the first point in time where buying a Blu-Ray player makes sense. I.e., whether or not you like what 2.0 is supposed to offer (or offers now), there's no doubt that 2.0 completes the Blu-Ray player spec.


As always, being in early adopter is a risk. But I don't think buying into a partially implemented player (e.g., profile 1.1) lessens that risk.


There are no planned player profile additions yet to come. (Profile 3.0 is for an audio only player -- i.e., it takes things away rather than adding things so that audio only players can be made more cheaply.)


My guess is we are still probably 2 years away from Blu-Ray settling down and becoming differentiated more by price point targets than by manufacturers playing catch up with the technology. Better integration and/or convenience features for playback of legacy disc formats is another thing still to be sorted out. I view the willingness of Sony to do rapid and significant upgrades of the PS3 as a major advantage during this period, and I'd be surprised if Sony were constrained by processor performance as regards any profile 2.0 functions.


The real weakness in my mind for the PS3 is that they are paying only lip service to legacy disc formats. But that's only an issue if you feel your first Blu-Ray player also has to be a competent universal player. I think that's asking a bit much at this point in the rollout of Blu-Ray.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

Bob:


Do you use voice recognition software?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/13910978
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Do you use voice recognition software?



Nope. I've tried it, and I talk too fast for it to keep up.











--Bob


----------



## jayray

A slight diversion







Without ARC in my AVM-50, I have started fiddling with the Room Resonance feature. Tried using RS sound meter and took the loudest frequency and reduced it to normal levels. Problem was, there were more than one loud frequency. Seems you can only tame one. Does this make any sense and am I using it correctly?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/13912255
> 
> 
> A slight diversion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without ARC in my AVM-50, I have started fiddling with the Room Resonance feature. Tried using RS sound meter and took the loudest frequency and reduced it to normal levels. Problem was, there were more than one loud frequency. Seems you can only tame one. Does this make any sense and am I using it correctly?
> 
> John



Yes. The Room Resonance filter only lets you tackle the biggest peak in the room response.


HOWEVER, if you play with the width and depth of that filter, along with adjusting the relative cross overs of the subwoofer and the main speakers, and also by tweaking the subwoofer polarity and phase, the combo will often give you better results than just a straightforward removal of one peak.


You should also consider varying the subwoofer location to one that couples less strongly with the room. Usually just a few inches will make a difference (maybe better and maybe worse). Using slightly different sub positioning you may be able to remove the biggest nulls (cancellation frequencies) and then combine that with the Room Resonance filter to remove the biggest remaining peak.


This can be fairly time consuming. In addition, if you move your SPL meter to different locations (even just a couple feet), you will likely discover the room response in the bass frequencies has quite a bit of variation at these different listening positions. And trying to come up with a compromise set of settings that works well across your various listening positions can be an interesting challenge.


Room treatment (bass absorbing materials intelligently placed) can reduce the way the subwoofer couples with the dimensions of the room and can simplify this stuff. There's a whole forum here on subwoofers where you will likely find useful advice.


There are also add-on products, like the Velodyne SMS-1, which will provide more control over bass equalization for you than you can get with the one filter in Anthem's Room Resonance feature.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Thanks Bob,


Looks like I will be tweaking for a while









John


----------



## mr_fitz

I don't know if there is any fix for this but I'll ask anyway.


I have a SA8300 HDPVR hooked up to my D2 with an hdmi cable. When I change channels or press guide I get a quick flash of the picture I'm changing to then my screen goes black then the picture comes back. It takes about 2-3 seconds. The sound though is uninterrupted. On some channels my guide comes up instantly without any cutout.


I have tried setting my cable box to fixed 720p, fixed 1080i and pass through and still have these issues. The weird thing is that it does not do it for all the channels. I can be channel surfing when set to 720p and it will work flawlessly then I will get to a channel and poof I get the quick flash then black then my picture again.


I had component cables on there before and seem to remember the same thing happening. I will try all the modes in the cable box again with component hooked up.


Hdmi repeater is set to no. Frame lock is off.


Thanks for the help.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13914910
> 
> 
> I don't know if there is any fix for this but I'll ask anyway.
> 
> 
> I have a SA8300 HDPVR hooked up to my D2 with an hdmi cable. When I change channels or press guide I get a quick flash of the picture I'm changing to then my screen goes black then the picture comes back. It takes about 2-3 seconds. The sound though is uninterrupted. On some channels my guide comes up instantly without any cutout.
> 
> 
> I have tried setting my cable box to fixed 720p, fixed 1080i and pass through and still have these issues. The weird thing is that it does not do it for all the channels. I can be channel surfing when set to 720p and it will work flawlessly then I will get to a channel and poof I get the quick flash then black then my picture again.
> 
> 
> I had component cables on there before and seem to remember the same thing happening. I will try all the modes in the cable box again with component hooked up.
> 
> 
> Hdmi repeater is set to no. Frame lock is off.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> 
> John



If it is happening with Component video connections, then it is not an HDMI handshake problem (obviously).


Even with Component, when you change output resolutions there is a brief delay as the DVR gets its act together to output the new resolution and as the input and scaler in the Anthem sync up to the new input resolution. But of course this shouldn't happen if you have the DVR set to output a fixed resolution.


There will also be a brief delay if you are changing to a premium channel, depending upon how the box implements your access privileges.


Off hand it sounds to me like you may have a hardware problem in your DVR, perhaps related to the way it switches its disk buffers (i.e., the ability to rewind live broadcasts or record what you are currently watching) when you switch channels. Can you swap it out for a replacement DVR? That would be the easiest way to check.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/13901832
> 
> 
> I have D1-HD and have lost output to the subs. I have 2 subs in the system and one RCA connector got damage on the cable, after replacing the connector and hooking the second sub back up I have neither work. Even when testing the speaker levels in the setup menu there is no output what so ever, any ideas, all cables are fine, all settings on the subs themselves never changed, it just like all of a sudden the D1 doesn't know that the subs are in the system.



I have a suggestion. You may have already tried it.

Check in your 'speaker configuration' section in 'set-up' and make sure that you have the subs turned on in both movie and music set-ups. The 'speaker level ' won't send a signal to the subs if they aren't turned on in the 'speaker configuration'.

Tom


----------



## drmabuse

The June issue of Sound & Vision has a rave review of the D2 w. ARC.

The only minus point the guy could state was no HDMI 1.3

Bottom line...if you can afford it, the D2 may be the best high end pre/pro in the market.

Makes one proud! 

/\\/\\


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13914910
> 
> 
> I don't know if there is any fix for this but I'll ask anyway.
> 
> 
> I have a SA8300 HDPVR hooked up to my D2 with an hdmi cable. When I change channels or press guide I get a quick flash of the picture I'm changing to then my screen goes black then the picture comes back. It takes about 2-3 seconds. The sound though is uninterrupted. On some channels my guide comes up instantly without any cutout.
> 
> 
> I have tried setting my cable box to fixed 720p, fixed 1080i and pass through and still have these issues. The weird thing is that it does not do it for all the channels. I can be channel surfing when set to 720p and it will work flawlessly then I will get to a channel and poof I get the quick flash then black then my picture again.
> 
> 
> I had component cables on there before and seem to remember the same thing happening. I will try all the modes in the cable box again with component hooked up.
> 
> 
> Hdmi repeater is set to no. Frame lock is off.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> 
> John



would you be on ROGERS cable at all? If so


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/13918191
> 
> 
> would you be on ROGERS cable at all? If so
> 
> 
> If Rogers treats the 8300 the way Comcast treats their Motorola DVRs then software and firmware upgrades are delayed for some markets or pushed out too soon in other markets (before being adequately tested). You might want to check the 8300 related thread in the HD set top box forum here to see what's known about various software releases, and to find out how to check which version is currently in your 8300.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/13917357
> 
> 
> The June issue of Sound & Vision has a rave review of the D2 w. ARC.
> 
> The only minus point the guy could state was no HDMI 1.3
> 
> Bottom line...if you can afford it, the D2 may be the best high end pre/pro in the market.
> 
> Makes one proud!
> 
> /\\/\\



Do they have any direct comparison against the Audyssey products?

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/13918191
> 
> 
> would you be on ROGERS cable at all? If so
> 
> 
> Yes it is Rogers.
> 
> 
> Stupid rogers. Is Bell any better?
> 
> 
> John


----------



## ChantheMan




ChantheMan said:


> gdc said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13615599
> 
> 
> If the Anthem would have worked without hiccups I wouldn't have changed.
> 
> 
> I just loaded the 1.31b and will post again after a couple of weeks to see if it fixes my startup issue (very infrequent).
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Chan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to report that the 1.31b seems to have fixed the startup issues I had. Can't say enough good things about Anthem. It has been over a month and no problems.
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13918261
> 
> 
> Do they have any direct comparison against the Audyssey products?
> 
> --Bob



Hi,


No the piece is more of an actual review of the D2, which they have never reviewed before, with the ARC being a key point throughout. Nowhere near as technical or indepth as Brian Florian's.


I will quote the closing paragraph though as it always makes me feel great when I read this kind of stuff about our beloved D2!


BOTTOM LINE

"It's true that for the cost of the Statement D2 and a suitable amplifier, you could buy a flagship model A/V receiver, appropriate speakers and a 50-inch flat panel TV and Blu-Ray player - with something left over to start that Blu-ray disc collection. But leaving money aside (and don't we all just wish we could?), the D2 is one of the all-around best A/V products I've evaluated across more years of doing this than I care to admit to. The day when Anthem's representatives show up to retrieve it will be a very sad one here at S&V's subpolar satellite lab. And they'd better be carrying sidearms when they do."

Daniel Kumin


Gotta love it!


/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Anderson

It's been a year now with my D2 and just wanted to share my feelings about what won the "Do I finally buy that motorcycle or a high-end A/V system".


My rig comprises of the D2, A5 for amp, Anthony Gallo Reference speakers all around with a MJ Acoutics Reference 200 Sub-Woofer, Devon 3800 for BD, ARCAM 137, (purchased while waiting for the HD war to end), Sharp D92 TV, HD-PVR from Rogers and good but expensive cables all around. Finishing it off was getting the ARC-1 at the beginning of this month.


Though I had to send the D2 back to Anthem once, Truetone in Mississauga, Ontario provided me with a temporary Pre/Pro to hold me over. They have been outstanding in servicing and support and are highly recommended. I control everything with a Aurora MX-950 remote from Universal.


Obviously, I have learned a lot from this forum over the year and become much more critical in my listening but what is providing me with so much pride in my A/V choice is the quality of sound and image the D2 delivers. I have friends and business associates that have come over for either a listen/see or for diner parties and often find someone in the A/V room just sitting in one of the chairs, listening to the music, enthralled with the quality of sound.


There are not enough superlatives in my vocabluary that can explain the quality of the ARC-1 tuned music and video that makes me join that person and take them on a audio/visual tour with music from the recently released, Anjani, Blue Alert CD produced by Leonard Cohen, (her voice is pure silk), To the Moody Blues, (Hall of Fame DVD), Simon & Garfunkel, (Old Friends DVD), Eagles, (Hell Freezes Over DVD), and then, to experiance HD with excellent surround, the just released BD, Master and Commander. One can clearly hear the rub of the cloth from the closely packed sacs of grain swaying back and forth in the hold as the night watchman makes his rounds. The gun battle has my poor guest on the edge of his seat, ducking as the 22 pounders crash through the ship.


I know this forum is primarily the bits and bytes, tips and tricks that make our D2 deliver what was promised but for me, I still want the bike, it is just in it's proper position, after my D2 based system.


Cheers


Bob


----------



## Milt99

Nice write-up Bob.

It mirrors my experiences as well.

While most want to watch a movie right off the bat, I "make" them listen to some hi-rez surround music first.









Technical aspects aside, it's the end result that makes it all worthwhile.


----------



## benleeys

Does anyone here know what the Room Gain setting is for and any tips on how to set it?


Also, what's the reason for setting a Max EQ Frequency? Why is it set to a default of 5kHz? Shouldn't the EQ cover the whole of the system's frequency range?


I do wish Anthem could at least explain somewhere in their instructions the significance of various settings in order for users to easily set suitable targets appropriate to their individual environment requirements without time spent head scratching.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13931942
> 
> 
> Does anyone here know what the Room Gain setting is for and any tips on how to set it?
> 
> 
> Also, what's the reason for setting a Max EQ Frequency? Why is it set to a default of 5kHz? Shouldn't the EQ cover the whole of the system's frequency range?
> 
> 
> I do wish Anthem could at least explain somewhere in their instructions the significance of various settings in order for users to easily set suitable targets appropriate to their individual environment requirements without time spent head scratching.
> 
> 
> Ben



Leave the Max EQ Frequency at 5KHz. Attempting to EQ above that point is not going to produce good results because the sweep tones are too directional up there -- which means the sound recorded from each speaker will be altered by slight directional differences in the mic pointing and speaker pointing at the various mic listening positions rather than reflecting true room response. The fact that ARC works so well up as far as 5KHz is really quite a feat. Don't push it beyond that. Even though the "calculated" results curves might look better in the high frequencies when you raise this limit, such results are misleading because of the unknown directional biases built in when the sweep tones were picked up by the mic in the first place.


Room Gain should also be left at the default. It represents the target for how much the room SHOULD alter the response in the frequencies around and just above the cross over. You see it visually as the "hump" in the calculated results curves near those frequencies. Determining the "correct" Room Gain to build into the ARC audio is a major piece of what you are paying for with ARC. It represents a key result of the listener testing research done over the past few decades -- the research that underlies the ARC technology. It is adjustable, I suspect, for reviewers who want to see if they can hear the difference between ARC's choice of Room Gain and a "flat" response (i.e., using the filters to remove all room gain) or an overly strong Room Gain (i.e., beyond what ARC chooses). And as we've seen from curves posted here, ARC determines the "right" Room Gain based upon its analysis of the recorded sweeps for each setup. I.e., the Room Gain number used for one person's setup is likely irrelevant for another person's setup.


Again, both of these settings are best left at their defaults.


The only Targets settings that you might need to play with are the Target cross over settings. And even there, it is probably best not to fiddle with these until you get a feel for how ARC sounds using the cross overs it determines for you.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13932288
> 
> 
> Leave the Max EQ Frequency at 5KHz. Attempting to EQ above that point is not going to produce good results because the sweep tones are too directional up there -- which means the sound recorded from each speaker will be altered by slight directional differences in the mic pointing and speaker pointing at the various mic listening positions rather than reflecting true room response. The fact that ARC works so well up as far as 5KHz is really quite a feat. Don't push it beyond that. Even though the "calculated" results curves might look better in the high frequencies when you raise this limit, such results are misleading because of the unknown directional biases built in when the sweep tones were picked up by the mic in the first place.
> 
> 
> Room Gain should also be left at the default. It represents the target for how much the room SHOULD alter the response in the frequencies around and just above the cross over. You see it visually as the "hump" in the calculated results curves near those frequencies. Determining the "correct" Room Gain to build into the ARC audio is a major piece of what you are paying for with ARC. It represents a key result of the listener testing research done over the past few decades -- the research that underlies the ARC technology. It is adjustable, I suspect, for reviewers who want to see if they can hear the difference between ARC's choice of Room Gain and a "flat" response (i.e., using the filters to remove all room gain) or an overly strong Room Gain (i.e., beyond what ARC chooses). And as we've seen from curves posted here, ARC determines the "right" Room Gain based upon its analysis of the recorded sweeps for each setup. I.e., the Room Gain number used for one person's setup is likely irrelevant for another person's setup.
> 
> 
> Again, both of these settings are best left at their defaults.
> 
> 
> The only Targets settings that you might need to play with are the Target cross over settings. And even there, it is probably best not to fiddle with these until you get a feel for how ARC sounds using the cross overs it determines for you.
> 
> --Bob



Grateful thanks for the explanation, Bob. As usual, you couldn't be clearer. I shall not even touch these 2 settings with a barge pole.


By the way, I suppose if Room EQ in the Setup Menu is set to ON, the Room Resonance Filter is automatically bypassed, even if Apply Filter is set to YES - or do we have to set it to NO?


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/13896119
> 
> 
> This tripod microphone stand works well for $30. The boom lets me place the stand behind or in front of the seat yet position the mic exactly where I want it, plus it keeps the mic height constant.



I agree! I just got one of these to check it out, and it is IDEAL for ARC use!


The ARC mic clip from Anthem's included stand screws onto the thread at the end of the boom. There is a locking ring to hold it at any angle (and the boom itself can be rotated around its axis to fine tune this as well.


The vertical part telescopes from 34" to 66" tall, and the boom arm is 30" long. The boom can slide forward and backward in its locking mount and the arm can be locked at any desired angle up or down. This means you can approach a typical upholstered seat even from the rear with the vertical shaft raised high and the boom arm angled down to clear the back of the seat. And the tripod legs, which have a small down angle when splayed out, are still flat enough to the ground that there should be no problem positioning them underneath any adjacent furniture to get the vertical shaft close to the furniture.


It is lightweight but plenty stable enough for this application, and should work just as well on carpet and hard floors. The base legs fold in when not in use and with the boom arm folded down against the vertical shaft it is even reasonably compact for storage (about 3 feet long by about 4" diameter.


Figure about $38 shipped (plus tax if you are in NY). By the way, for anyone who doesn't know, B&H is one of the premiere internet (and brick/mortar) shops serving the professional and amateur photographic and AV community. You can order from them with confidence.


ANTHEM: If you are reading this, check this mic stand out as a potential, future alternative stand to be bundled with ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13933079
> 
> 
> By the way, I suppose if Room EQ in the Setup Menu is set to ON, the Room Resonance Filter is automatically bypassed, even if Apply Filter is set to YES - or do we have to set it to NO?
> 
> 
> Ben



The manual implies it is automatically bypassed for Room EQ = ON sources (which of course makes sense), but I haven't actually tested it myself.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13932288
> 
> 
> Leave the Max EQ Frequency at 5KHz. Attempting to EQ above that point is not going to produce good results because the sweep tones are too directional up there -- which means the sound recorded from each speaker will be altered by slight directional differences in the mic pointing and speaker pointing at the various mic listening positions rather than reflecting true room response. The fact that ARC works so well up as far as 5KHz is really quite a feat. Don't push it beyond that. Even though the "calculated" results curves might look better in the high frequencies when you raise this limit, such results are misleading because of the unknown directional biases built in when the sweep tones were picked up by the mic in the first place.
> 
> 
> Room Gain should also be left at the default. It represents the target for how much the room SHOULD alter the response in the frequencies around and just above the cross over. You see it visually as the "hump" in the calculated results curves near those frequencies. Determining the "correct" Room Gain to build into the ARC audio is a major piece of what you are paying for with ARC. It represents a key result of the listener testing research done over the past few decades -- the research that underlies the ARC technology. It is adjustable, I suspect, for reviewers who want to see if they can hear the difference between ARC's choice of Room Gain and a "flat" response (i.e., using the filters to remove all room gain) or an overly strong Room Gain (i.e., beyond what ARC chooses). And as we've seen from curves posted here, ARC determines the "right" Room Gain based upon its analysis of the recorded sweeps for each setup. I.e., the Room Gain number used for one person's setup is likely irrelevant for another person's setup.
> 
> 
> Again, both of these settings are best left at their defaults.
> 
> 
> The only Targets settings that you might need to play with are the Target cross over settings. And even there, it is probably best not to fiddle with these until you get a feel for how ARC sounds using the cross overs it determines for you.
> 
> --Bob



I find a 4dB boost of room gain to be appropriate for my room even if ARC says it should be at ZERO. I find it a little flat at low end if I use the default settings. My room is well treated as average RT60 is around 0.3 seconds across. I see most curves to have a bit of a hump but mine does not. What gives?


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13934276
> 
> 
> The manual implies it is automatically bypassed for Room EQ = ON sources (which of course makes sense), but I haven't actually tested it myself.
> 
> --Bob



It is true. If room eq = on then room resonance is bypassed. I tested it and just to confirm what Nick told me. ;-)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13934735
> 
> 
> I find a 4dB boost of room gain to be appropriate for my room even if ARC says it should be at ZERO. I find it a little flat at low end if I use the default settings. My room is well treated as average RT60 is around 0.3 seconds across. I see most curves to have a bit of a hump but mine does not. What gives?



ARC most commonly seems to be applying a room gain near 3 from the stuff that's been posted here.


If it is suggesting 0 in your measurements there may be something wrong with the way you are doing the measurements. In the posts here, we haven't quite figured out why some of the calculated curves are showing no hump.


The only mistake we've discovered so far that is guaranteed to give poor ARC results is to place the mic positions too close together. But I've no idea whether making this mistake might cause ARC to suggest 0 Room Gain.


[The various mic positions must be at least 12 inches apart, and probably 18 to 24 inches is better. The separation is necessary so that ARC can distinguish room response from inherent speaker performance (room response varies with mic location).]


I'm not sure whether simply upping the Room Gain target manually as you are doing is as good as figuring out what's going on that is causing ARC to suggest 0 in the first place. I.e., other aspects of the ARC calculation may also be getting biased, and your change to the Room Gain target may not address that as well.


Re-read the brief instructions delivered with ARC and see if you can spot anything else you might be doing which is counter to those instructions. Failing that, it might be necessary to contact Anthem and see if they know of anything that would cause ARC to suggest a target near 0.


As best I know, it is NOT supposed to be necessary for the user to fiddle with the Room Gain target.

--Bob


----------



## abc999

I will try another run and compare what is suggested by ARC. From the Arc's settings. My Fronts are crossed at 40, center- 75, surrounds-115 and rears at 75 and subs at 120. I find that with these settings, the sub can be localized. I override the crossover settings to 80hertz with all the speakers. The calculated response for all speakers is not that bad compared to the recommended settings by ARC. The surrounds are the one mostly affected because they are down by a dB or two from the target curve at 80 to 90 hertz. I believe this is no big deal as fronts get better calculated response with my crossover settings.


I hope Nick or anybody at Anthem could post the underlying reasons for such difference in response curves. The manual of the D2 is written so good that you can understand all the setting changes but in the case of the ARC, I cannot say the same.


----------



## uppacreek

I'd like to check with those of you who have connected a high quality CD player to your Anthem and the results you're getting.


My CD player is the Ayre C-5xe connected to the D2 via MIT Shotgun MA balanced interconnets. When connected via analog and set in the D2 as Analog Direct, the music is wonderful....clean, transparent, accurate with an amazing soundstage. The D2 in this instance is only working as a preamp to set gain and speaker levels, but previously my prepro was a Denon 3806 which basically sucked in comparison to the detailed sound produced by the D2.


However, when I set the 2-Channel source in the D2 to Analog DSP so I can use my sub and ARC settings for music, the sound is awful....really lacks depth and clarity, seems like a fair amount of digital *noise* is introduced into the signal. I've noticed this with many discs including SACD, DVD-A and red book CD.


So last night I disconnected the cables from the Ayre analog connections and hooked up the Ayre's balanced digital out into the AES/EBU input on the D2. First I tried to setup a new source as "CD" with Audio-In as Digital AES/EBU, but I couldn't get any sound. This baffled me since I know the D2 can accept multiple input settings for a single source. So then I changed the 2-channel source from Analog Direct Audio-In to Digital AES/EBU. This worked, but the sound was just as bad as using Analog DSP. With Room EQ = On the sound was a bit better, but overall using the DAC's in the D2 was very disappointing.


Using my Oppo 980 as a CD player via HDMI to the D2 just can't compete with the Ayre. The Ayre is still the better source even with the limitations in using it's digital out into the D2.


Shouldn't a high quality digital connection via an excellent transport produce superb sound via the D2 when compared to straight thru analog? I'm beginning to think the DAC's in the D2 are not all that great, unless there's somthing I'm missing in setup, but I've cycled through the setup menus many times looking for a way to improve digital source music.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

uppacreek,

You really shouldn't be hearing that much difference. I suppose it's possible that you have a hardware problem in the DACs in your unit.


For analog (DSP) input, the issue might also be in the digitizing side. Try upping the sampling frequency (Setup / ADC and Audio Output/ 2-ch Anlg-DSP) or using just the left and right inputs of the 6-ch set which has a higher sampling frequency by default.


Also remember that the "temporary" settings such as Bass and Treble control are remembered per source AND per type of input audio. It is just possible that you have something set there which you've forgotten or which you think you previously cleared -- but didn't because the type of input audio had changed first.


To eliminate all of those temporary settings at once, Save User Settings, Reload Factory Defaults, and then Reload User Settings. The temporary settings will all be restored to factory defaults.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13935935
> 
> 
> ........[The various mic positions must be at least 12 inches apart, and probably 18 to 24 inches is better. The separation is necessary so that ARC can distinguish room response from inherent speaker performance (room response varies with mic location).]



For those who do not wish to take measurements over too wide an area, I have a 'discovery' to share. Say you have 3 positions staked out with position 1 in the center and 2 and 3 on either side 20" away. Okay, measure first 1, then proceed to 2, then 3. Position 4 would be between 1 and 2, and finally 5 between 1 and 3. This way, proceeding from one measurement from the next would involve moving the mic a minimum distance of 20". It works for me and ARC does not complain.










Ben


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13936235
> 
> 
> I'd like to check with those of you who have connected a high quality CD player to your Anthem and the results you're getting. ......



Peter,

Am using a Denon 5910 to feed CD into the D2. Best I've owned so far, including a Krell. Have tried both analog and digital connections and found it difficult to pin down any major difference. On the whole though, I prefer the digital connection and have the D2 do the decoding.


The Ayre is a superb unit and there shouldn't be any reason why it cannot mate well with the D2. You're welcomed to try it on my D2 and see if the problem is still there.


Ben


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13938484
> 
> 
> For those who do not wish to take measurements over too wide an area, I have a 'discovery' to share. Say you have 3 positions staked out with position 1 in the center and 2 and 3 on either side 20" away. Okay, measure first 1, then proceed to 2, then 3. Position 4 would be between 1 and 2, and finally 5 between 1 and 3. This way, proceeding from one measurement from the next would involve moving the mic a minimum distance of 20". It works for me and ARC does not complain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



Aside from Position 1, why would ARC care about the order. If the positions are too close, the calculations may be affected but ARC won't report an error since it does not know where the mic is.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/13939923
> 
> 
> Aside from Position 1, why would ARC care about the order. If the positions are too close, the calculations may be affected but ARC won't report an error since it does not know where the mic is.



Correct. There is no error to be reported. If the positions are too close together, ARC apparently decides that what it is hearing is actual speaker performance instead of room response. This may cause it to decide your speakers are lesser performers than they really are.


I don't think it is a good idea to try to force ARC to accept close together mic positions by recording them in some different order.


If necessary do the outer two mic positions inwards from your normal listening position as shown in the diagram in the ARC write up.

--Bob


----------



## abc999

Had 6 audio/videophiles yesterday afternoon. All of them said that the ARC made a big improvement on my system. Even for 2 channel music using a CD player via SPDIF never sounded better! Too many superlatives flew around.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/13939923
> 
> 
> Aside from Position 1, why would ARC care about the order. If the positions are too close, the calculations may be affected but ARC won't report an error since it does not know where the mic is.




Do I smell an ARC vs. Audyssey with Kal's comment?


----------



## misterdoggy

HI to All,


Well some of you may remember me with the problems of the D2 shutting down because I was using a step down transformer. I tried everything from filtering to conditioners but never solved what was causing the unit to behave bizarrely.


I sold it to an American and it worked perfectly right away ??? Something in the electricity that the D2 was sensitive to.... We may never know.


I have to say that this is one of the best support forums I have ever been on and I belong to a few. You get answers and help right away and everyone is very friendly and no ego.


Its too bad the D2 was so sensitive and overall I found it to be unreliable with both audio and video signals. Many of you "accept" the fact that hdmi doesn't work with satellites or there is jitter with a satellite audio signal. For me the "idea" of the D2 is great, but in use it is on very shaky ground.


I have since separated audio and video with the VP50pro and the Meridian 861V4 (with room correction) and there a now no issues. Everything works.


Reading thru the forum many use component when hdmi fails and will switch other cables around what ever problem persists and it is regrettable that you have to do that.


I thank you all for your help, a nicer bunch of people can't be found on any forum and hope that Anthem will fix all the minor glitches as I think it has to do with the fact that they are on the cutting edge of technology and at the cutting edge you have to live with some glitches.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/13939923
> 
> 
> Aside from Position 1, why would ARC care about the order. If the positions are too close, the calculations may be affected but ARC won't report an error since it does not know where the mic is.



It's a question of fuzzy logic. If you do not require a large sweet spot, better to concentrate and optimise correction within a smaller area. Try it. Shows up on the graph.


----------



## shah993




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *misterdoggy* /forum/post/13941846
> 
> 
> HI to All,
> 
> 
> Well some of you may remember me with the problems of the D2 shutting down because I was using a step down transformer. I tried everything from filtering to conditioners but never solved what was causing the unit to behave bizarrely.
> 
> 
> I sold it to an American and it worked perfectly right away ??? Something in the electricity that the D2 was sensitive to.... We may never know.
> 
> 
> I have to say that this is one of the best support forums I have ever been on and I belong to a few. You get answers and help right away and everyone is very friendly and no ego.
> 
> 
> Its too bad the D2 was so sensitive and overall I found it to be unreliable with both audio and video signals. Many of you "accept" the fact that hdmi doesn't work with satellites or there is jitter with a satellite audio signal. For me the "idea" of the D2 is great, but in use it is on very shaky ground.
> 
> 
> I have since separated audio and video with the VP50pro and the Meridian 861V4 (with room correction) and there a now no issues. Everything works.
> 
> 
> Reading thru the forum many use component when hdmi fails and will switch other cables around what ever problem persists and it is regrettable that you have to do that.
> 
> 
> I thank you all for your help, a nicer bunch of people can't be found on any forum and hope that Anthem will fix all the minor glitches as I think it has to do with the fact that they are on the cutting edge of technology and at the cutting edge you have to live with some glitches.



Hi!,

I live in the states and do have satellite being viewed thru the D2 and it does not have any problems.I suspect it may have to do with the power conditioner.Anyway it is obviosly to late for you to try but all the same we all share the same goal of having the best home theater experience possible.All the best to you.


----------



## T100

I"ve owned my avm 20 for 6 years now and have loved it. I now have a chance to sell it, and purchase a 50 or a D2. Over the years I have learned the avm20 pretty well. and has been a good performer. So my question is which one, 2nd is I"m a little worried about set up. I"m a home theater nut I"ve spent enough to pay for my home, but I love it and I have to say my wife has given total support on my hobbie. I"m not into boats,cars ect.(work for Lexus so I drive different cars all the time) just this. My set up was done by me and consists of 60XBR2, BPS1 or PS3, XA2 ,MCA5 MCA20 XLR connections, montier 11,cc350 pw2200,adp350,ams250, buttkickers all set up by me. So when it comes to letting the 20 go, and trying to make a go at the 50 or D2 its one with apprehension so I value this website to help thru setup of this. You guys know these units well so any feedback is helpful for my decision. Also will there be sound quality difference from 20 to 50.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *T100* /forum/post/13942813
> 
> 
> I"ve owned my avm 20 for 6 years now and have loved it. I now have a chance to sell it, and purchase a 50 or a D2. Over the years I have learned the avm20 pretty well. and has been a good performer. So my question is which one, 2nd is I"m a little worried about set up. I"m a home theater nut I"ve spent enough to pay for my home, but I love it and I have to say my wife has given total support on my hobbie. I"m not into boats,cars ect.(work for Lexus so I drive different cars all the time) just this. My set up was done by me and consists of 60XBR2, BPS1 or PS3, XA2 ,MCA5 MCA20 XLR connections, montier 11,cc350 pw2200,adp350,ams250, buttkickers all set up by me. So when it comes to letting the 20 go, and trying to make a go at the 50 or D2 its one with apprehension so I value this website to help thru setup of this. You guys know these units well so any feedback is helpful for my decision. Also will there be sound quality difference from 20 to 50.



Hi,

For what it is worth, I owned an AVM2 went to the AVM20 and then to the D2. What would really tip the scales for me between the 50 and the D2 is the addition of ARC on the D2 - worth every penny!

I would say without hesitation, although I loved the previous 2 models the D2 is the single best audio/home theatre piece of equipment I have ever bought. IT is what makes my system look and sound superior to virtually anything I see out there.

Can't wait for the next model!!!


/\\/\\


----------



## funlvr1965

finally getting around to hooking up the room correction, software loaded, serial cable hooked to the back of the laptop and the other end D2 serial connector when I go to start the measurement I get this message" no calibration files found in appliaction directory that match (code= 0x02) also getting message that says " measurement procedure failed failure to find calibration files for unit serial #) if this has been discussed before my apologies, anyone have any ideas here? at some point it does say that it finds the d2 with serial number so im not sure whats up here?


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *T100* /forum/post/13942813
> 
> 
> I"ve owned my avm 20 for 6 years now and have loved it. I now have a chance to sell it, and purchase a 50 or a D2. Over the years I have learned the avm20 pretty well. and has been a good performer. So my question is which one, 2nd is I"m a little worried about set up. I"m a home theater nut I"ve spent enough to pay for my home, but I love it and I have to say my wife has given total support on my hobbie. I"m not into boats,cars ect.(work for Lexus so I drive different cars all the time) just this. My set up was done by me and consists of 60XBR2, BPS1 or PS3, XA2 ,MCA5 MCA20 XLR connections, montier 11,cc350 pw2200,adp350,ams250, buttkickers all set up by me. So when it comes to letting the 20 go, and trying to make a go at the 50 or D2 its one with apprehension so I value this website to help thru setup of this. You guys know these units well so any feedback is helpful for my decision. Also will there be sound quality difference from 20 to 50.



I had an AVM50 for a year and recently upgraded to the D2 and love it! The ARC works well to my ears. I think it was worth the extra money for the D2.


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/13943404
> 
> 
> finally getting around to hooking up the room correction, software loaded, serial cable hooked to the back of the laptop and the other end D2 serial connector when I go to start the measurement I get this message" no calibration files found in appliaction directory that match (code= 0x02) also getting message that says " measurement procedure failed failure to find calibration files for unit serial #) if this has been discussed before my apologies, anyone have any ideas here? at some point it does say that it finds the d2 with serial number so im not sure whats up here?



Did you load the ARC software from the website? If you did, you need the calibration files on the CD and place them in the ARC folder.


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/13944217
> 
> 
> Did you load the ARC software from the website? If you did, you need the calibration files on the CD and place them in the ARC folder.



nope, did everything by the book, loaded from the cd not the website, I looked at the calibration files that were created in the room correction folder and if they are supposed to have my serial number included in the naming of the file, then they are indeed wrong, how can this be and how can it be fixed? that would explain why im getting errors saying that there is a serial number mismatch


----------



## netroamer

If you created a program shortcut to your screen, that may be the problem...it happened to me. Also, check that the property info for the program icon is directed to start in the directory that the unit id file is in.


----------



## funlvr1965

I let the install disk create the shortcut so Im sure it wasnt anything I did, I followed the install procedure but yet again seems im screwed, making matters worse even though the calibration never took place, all my settings were lost, even though I saved them to both user and installer settings they didnt get saved, good thing I went through each screen and took pictures just in case something like this would happen


----------



## netroamer

Your best bet is to completely remove ARC from your computer and do a fresh reload. I suggest you remove any directories or files left after the uninstall and, if you feel comfortable, any undeleted registry entries. Then do a complete reload. The two files ARC needs to verify the serial number XXXXX_YYYYYY.cal and XXXXX_YYYYYYanthem.file. (X) is your serial number and Y is a six digit number that may be the mic S/N. If they are not there, check for them on the install CD.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/13944245
> 
> 
> nope, did everything by the book, loaded from the cd not the website, I looked at the calibration files that were created in the room correction folder and if they are supposed to have my serial number included in the naming of the file, then they are indeed wrong, how can this be and how can it be fixed? that would explain why im getting errors saying that there is a serial number mismatch



The calibration files must have names that match the serial number of your D2. The serial # is also encoded into the file so you can't just change the file names and have it work.


If the ARC install disc provided to you has the wrong files then something was screwed up in the ordering or order fulfillment process, and only Anthem technical support can help you. The plastic protective package for the ARC install disc should also have a label on it showing your D2's serial #. If the label on that plastic case is correct and the files are wrong, then Anthem put the wrong CD into your delivery -- and probably some other D2 owner got your disc.


If the label on the plastic case matches the file names that are installed, and they are all incorrect, then either the wrong serial # was sent in with your order or Anthem sent you the wrong disc for your order.


Again, this is not something you can fix yourself. You need to get the matching calibration files for your D2's serial # *AND* for the particular microphone that Anthem sent you. Only Anthem can fix this for you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *T100* /forum/post/13942813
> 
> 
> I"ve owned my avm 20 for 6 years now and have loved it. I now have a chance to sell it, and purchase a 50 or a D2. Over the years I have learned the avm20 pretty well. and has been a good performer. So my question is which one, 2nd is I"m a little worried about set up. I"m a home theater nut I"ve spent enough to pay for my home, but I love it and I have to say my wife has given total support on my hobbie. I"m not into boats,cars ect.(work for Lexus so I drive different cars all the time) just this. My set up was done by me and consists of 60XBR2, BPS1 or PS3, XA2 ,MCA5 MCA20 XLR connections, montier 11,cc350 pw2200,adp350,ams250, buttkickers all set up by me. So when it comes to letting the 20 go, and trying to make a go at the 50 or D2 its one with apprehension so I value this website to help thru setup of this. You guys know these units well so any feedback is helpful for my decision. Also will there be sound quality difference from 20 to 50.



The audio portion of the AVM-50 is an AVM-30. And yes there is a sound difference between the 20 and the 30 (or 50).


The audio portion of the Statement D2 is a Statement D1. And there is an even bigger sound difference comparing that to the 20.


If you can afford it, the D2 (which is now shipped bundled with ARC), is, in my opinion, well worth the extra money over the AVM-50.


The video portion of the AVM-50 and D2 are identical.


The D2 also has a better power supply and a scant handful of additional features over the AVM-50 (such as internal audio upsampling to 192KHz).

--Bob


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/13938713
> 
> 
> Peter,
> 
> Am using a Denon 5910 to feed CD into the D2. Best I've owned so far, including a Krell. Have tried both analog and digital connections and found it difficult to pin down any major difference. On the whole though, I prefer the digital connection and have the D2 do the decoding.
> 
> 
> The Ayre is a superb unit and there shouldn't be any reason why it cannot mate well with the D2. You're welcomed to try it on my D2 and see if the problem is still there.
> 
> 
> Ben



Thanks for the offer Ben, I'll PM you to make arrangements. Just to clarify, in Analog Direct the Ayre mates perfectly with the D2, the sound is phenominal. It's only when I switch over to digitial (either Analog DSP or directly via Digital AES/EBU cable) that I hear a *less pleasing* result.


At any rate, as Bob suggested maybe there's an issue with the DAC's in my unit. It would be great to hook-up my Ayre to your D2 for a comparison, especially since we essentially have the same speakers, with the added advantage at your end


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13946332
> 
> 
> Thanks for the offer Ben, I'll PM you to make arrangements. Just to clarify, in Analog Direct the Ayre mates perfectly with the D2, the sound is phenominal. It's only when I switch over to digitial (either Analog DSP or directly via Digital AES/EBU cable) that I hear a *less pleasing* result.
> 
> 
> At any rate, as Bob suggested maybe there's an issue with the DAC's in my unit. It would be great to hook-up my Ayre to your D2 for a comparison, especially since we essentially have the same speakers, with the added advantage at your end



Peter,

Your analog direct connection should sound great since the D2 is just acting as a passthru with volume control added along the way. Looks more and more like a DAC problem then, but bring your Ayre over and we'll see whether you need to bother Kevin.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13946332
> 
> 
> Thanks for the offer Ben, I'll PM you to make arrangements. Just to clarify, in Analog Direct the Ayre mates perfectly with the D2, the sound is phenominal. It's only when I switch over to digitial (either Analog DSP or directly via Digital AES/EBU cable) that I hear a *less pleasing* result.
> 
> 
> At any rate, as Bob suggested maybe there's an issue with the DAC's in my unit. It would be great to hook-up my Ayre to your D2 for a comparison, especially since we essentially have the same speakers, with the added advantage at your end



Please post your results on the thread. I've ordered a Bryston bcd-1, and although its not in the same class as the Ayre I do plan to hook it up via the balanced 2 channel input. I will be interested if the sound on your freind's D2 is the same or not.

I'm sure you probably thought of this, but the D2 defaults to 'anthem logic music' in the analog dsp inputs. You need to set it to 'stereo' in the 'mode presets' for the '2 ch' input.

If it were in 'anthem logic music' it would definitely have a different sound since it would be matrixed to the surround speakers. I only mention this because its something I might overlook. The D2 in analog dsp/stereo mode should just send low frequencies to the sub at whatever crossover point you or your ARC has set.

BTW did you try both balaced and unbalaced connections from your Ayre to the D2? Did you have the same results?

I look forward to your results.

Tom


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/13947694
> 
> 
> Please post your results on the thread. I've ordered a Bryston bcd-1, and although its not in the same class as the Ayre I do plan to hook it up via the balanced 2 channel input. I will be interested if the sound on your freind's D2 is the same or not.
> 
> I'm sure you probably thought of this, but the D2 defaults to 'anthem logic music' in the analog dsp inputs. You need to set it to 'stereo' in the 'mode presets' for the '2 ch' input.
> 
> If it were in 'anthem logic music' it would definitely have a different sound since it would be matrixed to the surround speakers. I only mention this because its something I might overlook. The D2 in analog dsp/stereo mode should just send low frequencies to the sub at whatever crossover point you or your ARC has set.
> 
> BTW did you try both balaced and unbalaced connections from your Ayre to the D2? Did you have the same results?
> 
> I look forward to your results.
> 
> Tom



Tom, for sure I'm just as interested as you to find out so I will post results when I have them (thanks to Ben).


Yes, I've cycled through the various setup options for 2-channel in Analog DSP. I set the D2 to Stereo and turn off/on Room EQ. The D2 is converting my Ayre's balanced analog input signal to digital, upsampling and adding processing for Room EQ (or not if it's off), then converting back to analog, the sound either way is simply is not as full as with analog direct. The low frequencies take on a slightly different image due to the mains high pass crossover now directing low frequencies to my sub (compared to analog direct with no sub in my case), but the biggest difference is in the midrange and upper frequencies.


A great CD to compare is The Best of Dire Straits - Private Investigations 2nd Edition. When I play track 2 Sultans of Swing, in analog direct the clarity and accuracy of Knopfler's guitar is astonishing, but when I switch to Analog DSP his guitar becomes slightly truncated and disjointed, like it's clipping. Believe me, it still sounds *ok*, but it's simply not as high quality a signal as with analog direct and the difference is very clear to my ears.


When I completely change over to digital AES/EBU into the D2, I get very similar results as with Analog DSP....but now it's pure digital in...this is why I'm thinking something could be haywire with my D2's DAC's.


Now I haven't tried straight RCA from the Ayre into the D2 because I don't have any quality unbalanced cables, but this at best will be Analog DSP. Perhaps I can try this with Ben, but I don't think it will make much of a difference.


Sure, once I get more information on this, I'll post again.


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Peter,

Try analog into the 6-ch input (just use the LF and RF connectors of the 6-ch input set). Use whatever RCA connectors you have for this test. If that sounds better then the problem may be on the digitizing side. By default the 6-ch input digitizes at 96KHz and the 2 channel input at 44KHz.


If that appears promising, then try raising the sampling rate for digitizing the 2 channel input in Setup / ADC & Audio Output.


----------------------------------------


Using the AES digital input (to eliminate the digitizing issue), try playing calibration sweep tones and see if you can hear any frequencies where the D2's DACs appear to be glitching. Leave ARC turned off for this and use Stereo audio mode to minimize processing. Given what you are hearing, concentrate on the mid-range frequencies.


Obviously this would be better done with an oscilloscope and a signal generator, but if the DACs have a serious problem you might be able to hear it by ear.


--------------------------------------------


Make sure that you have Auto-Dig turned off in Setup / Source Setup for this input so that you aren't accidentally picking up a digital audio input instead of the analog audio input you think you are testing.


--------------------------------------------


Setup a Music speaker configuration with NO SUBWOOFER and with "Large" LF and RF speakers. Select the Music speaker configuration for this input. Use either digital or analog stereo input and play music using the Stereo audio mode. The idea is to eliminate cross over processing to see if that might be where the fault lies (as opposed to digitizing the input or the conversion to analog for output).


---------------------------------------------


Double check your Setup / Listener Position settings. If the speaker distances are incorrect you may be hearing the effects of cancellation between speakers when using Anlg-DSP or digital inputs (i.e., portions of the audio that are going out equally to both speakers may be getting time shifted for one speaker so that cancellation occurs). This would also screw up "imaging" of the sound stage as it would bias the sound to one side or the other. For the very critical listening you are doing now, you might hear this effect whereas you might not hear it for less critical listening such as with movies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've been trying to figure out what Comcast is doing to my HDTV channels that produces the image degradation I am seeing in critical viewing. It's annoying me because my SD-DVD imaging is pretty darned close to PERFECT with the V1.31c software and my current calibration setup.


I *THINK* what is going on is that Comcast has expanded the digital luminance range from the correct 16-235 range to 0-255 (which necessarily discards Blacker than Black and Peak White data since there is no place to put values less than 0 or higher than 255) and then reduced it back to 16-235.


The result is that Blacker than Black and Peak White data is clipped (or possibly crushed -- e.g., BTB rounded UP to "black" instead of merely being discarded) *AND* banding is introduced due to the rounding errors during these two range changes. In addition, I suspect there has been a YCbCr to RGB and back to YCbCr conversion involved and that the wrong color math was used for Studio vs. Extended RGB as part of that (which is distinct from the HDTV vs SDTV color space math issue). This would show up as color decoder style errors.


This is the simplest "mistake" I can think of that would explain what I am seeing.


The alternative is that it is not a "mistake". That instead they are deliberately recompressing these channels to reduce the bandwidth they take up on the cable (bit starving and resolution reduction -- the infamous "HD-lite") and are just doing it in a particularly heavy handed fashion. The reason I favor the "mistake" is that I'm not seeing the posterization that would normally accompany bit starving.


What's really weird is that my SDTV channels have never looked better! There is still the usual range of bad SDTV content to good (and the bad will ALWAYS look bad), but the channels delivering good quality imaging look better than before. It's always tough to make such comparisons because cable and satellite companies can change their transmission configuration on the fly -- hour by hour in some cases.


------------------------------


I think I may also try swapping out my Comcast box just to make sure it is not a hardware failure in the box itself. But I think that's unlikely because typical hardware failures should look a lot worse.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13948310
> 
> 
> Tom, for sure I'm just as interested as you to find out so I will post results when I have them (thanks to Ben).
> 
> 
> Yes, I've cycled through the various setup options for 2-channel in Analog DSP. I set the D2 to Stereo and turn off/on Room EQ. The D2 is converting my Ayre's balanced analog input signal to digital, upsampling and adding processing for Room EQ (or not if it's off), then converting back to analog, the sound either way is simply is not as full as with analog direct. The low frequencies take on a slightly different image due to the mains high pass crossover now directing low frequencies to my sub (compared to analog direct with no sub in my case), but the biggest difference is in the midrange and upper frequencies.
> 
> 
> A great CD to compare is The Best of Dire Straits - Private Investigations 2nd Edition. When I play track 2 Sultans of Swing, in analog direct the clarity and accuracy of Knopfler's guitar is astonishing, but when I switch to Analog DSP his guitar becomes slightly truncated and disjointed, like it's clipping. Believe me, it still sounds *ok*, but it's simply not as high quality a signal as with analog direct and the difference is very clear to my ears.
> 
> 
> When I completely change over to digital AES/EBU into the D2, I get very similar results as with Analog DSP....but now it's pure digital in...this is why I'm thinking something could be haywire with my D2's DAC's.
> 
> 
> Now I haven't tried straight RCA from the Ayre into the D2 because I don't have any quality unbalanced cables, but this at best will be Analog DSP. Perhaps I can try this with Ben, but I don't think it will make much of a difference.
> 
> 
> Sure, once I get more information on this, I'll post again.
> 
> 
> Peter



It could be that the Ayre's DAC's are superior to the D2's. The Stereophile reviews of the Ayre cdp's, both the 5xe and 7xe, were glowing.They rated them at A orA+ if I remember right. Both reviews commented on the superior sound using the balanced xlr analog connections from the Ayre players.

If you find that the Ayre sounds better to you on analog, then play it on analog.

The only other suggestion I would have is to re-do your ARC in 'advanced' and turn all the speakers off except the fronts, including the sub, in the 'music' side. That would allow you to get the benefits of ARC and get the lowest frequencies, theoretically, that your fronts can handle. I assume that if you bought such a fine cdp that your speakers are equally good.

I'm not sure if you have to re-run ARC completely, with the mic and sweeps, or if you can use the info in ARC and recalibrate for the 2.0 speaker set-up. I bet Bob P. would know. I might try it myself.

Tom


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13936235
> 
> 
> I'd like to check with those of you who have connected a high quality CD player to your Anthem and the results you're getting.
> 
> 
> My CD player is the Ayre C-5xe connected to the D2 via MIT Shotgun MA balanced interconnets. When connected via analog and set in the D2 as Analog Direct, the music is wonderful....clean, transparent, accurate with an amazing soundstage. The D2 in this instance is only working as a preamp to set gain and speaker levels, but previously my prepro was a Denon 3806 which basically sucked in comparison to the detailed sound produced by the D2.
> 
> 
> However, when I set the 2-Channel source in the D2 to Analog DSP so I can use my sub and ARC settings for music, the sound is awful....really lacks depth and clarity, seems like a fair amount of digital *noise* is introduced into the signal. I've noticed this with many discs including SACD, DVD-A and red book CD.
> 
> 
> So last night I disconnected the cables from the Ayre analog connections and hooked up the Ayre's balanced digital out into the AES/EBU input on the D2. First I tried to setup a new source as "CD" with Audio-In as Digital AES/EBU, but I couldn't get any sound. This baffled me since I know the D2 can accept multiple input settings for a single source. So then I changed the 2-channel source from Analog Direct Audio-In to Digital AES/EBU. This worked, but the sound was just as bad as using Analog DSP. With Room EQ = On the sound was a bit better, but overall using the DAC's in the D2 was very disappointing.
> 
> 
> Using my Oppo 980 as a CD player via HDMI to the D2 just can't compete with the Ayre. The Ayre is still the better source even with the limitations in using it's digital out into the D2.
> 
> 
> Shouldn't a high quality digital connection via an excellent transport produce superb sound via the D2 when compared to straight thru analog? I'm beginning to think the DAC's in the D2 are not all that great, unless there's somthing I'm missing in setup, but I've cycled through the setup menus many times looking for a way to improve digital source music.



Peter,


Perhaps I can put in my $.02 based on email exchanges I had with Nick (Anthem) and a client in which the client tried to do an A/B comparison using the 6 channel outputs of his Denon 5900 to his D2.


Rather than paraphrase, I'll just cut and paste the email exchanges and then you can be the judge as to whether or not it makes sense or even applies to your situation.


CLIENT:

"Nick -- good morning.

As an experiment, I set my D2 "6-channel" input to "analog direct" and used normal RCA cables from my DVD player (Denon 5900), which is also my CD player; and set my "CD" input to "analog-dsp" in stereo mode -- also normal RCA cables from same DVD player to Anthem. Wanted to compare analog direct with a digitally processed audio signal.

Switching back and forth between 6-channel analog and CD-analog to digital, the 6 channel analog direct input is very good -- and noticeably superior to the analog-dsp-stereo, especially in regards to imaging, but also in other respects. The digital image lost focus, some but not all of which was restored if a moved a bit to the right. I tried re-adjusting the setup levels of my left/right front speakers, but the need to move to the right really didn't change.

Although I've read great things about the Anthem digital circuitry, I probably shouldn't be surprised by this. I assume that you would also expect the digitally processed signal to be somewhat degraded. Correct?

What doesn't sound normal is a little crackling in the analog-dsp-stereo mode - almost like having a little dust in the grooves of a vinyl LP; and a little increase in background noise in analog-dsp-stereo. I only listened to 1 CD and it was not an "audiophile" CD, but I didn't hear that distortion or noise in analog-direct. Is it possible that whatever distortion is present on the CD is magnified as a result of the digital processing?

Please give me your thoughts.



NICK:


"When the D1 was under development (it has the same audio circuit as the D2) this is what we did to compare direct to DSP:

listening test setup:

- connect 2-channel source to preamp
- disable all processing (all speakers large, all distances same, no PLII, THX etc)
- play appropriate source material (can't judge naturalness with unnatural recording - pop CDs are mostly out)

blind listening result:

- no one could tell direct apart from DSP (all you have to do is toggle it in the setup menu, no need to connect to a different source

measured difference between direct and DSP:

- artifacts began at -120 dB, which is inaudible and the goal. We wanted a transparent digital stage, and in teh end the A to D to A stage was transparent, with direct mode as the baseline.

So why the differences that you heard?

a. If you're comparing the analog output of the player vs the digital output, you are inserting the player's DACs and analog signal path. This not an A/B comparison. In addition, levels have to be matched to within 0.1 dB in a proper test or the louder one usually wins. We can hear a 0.3 dB increase and "more dynamic" is a frequent comment even though nothing but the volume changes. It's hard to find a stepped volume control with steps lower than 0.5 dB.

b. The 6-Ch analog inputs on the Statement series use a differential circuit to allow louder sources (the sub channel usually is) and to lower distortion.

c. If the crackling on anlg-DSP was during musical peaks and it was on a stereo input, it's possible that the analog output voltage of the player was higher than standard. This is a common trick among hi-end players (see a.) with some outputting three times the standard voltage, which is 2V. The ADCs can't take much more than that though lowering analog input levels in the setup menu may help. Direct mode can take about twice the voltage that DSPs can.

d. The output voltage of the two channels may not be identical. The center image (the mono components such as a vocal) in a stereo recording is very unstable unless you have your head in a vise. A slight variation in the arrival times between the two speakers and two ears also sounds like a change in balance. Recordings containing a center channel dispose of this effect.

All said, I wouldn't use the player's analog outputs when its digital output can be used - use it with the D2's DAC stage, a 24/192 upsampler feeding hi-end 128X oversampling DACs running at 24.576 MHz running through a reconstruction filter that couldn't be gentler. And since the upsamplers run their own clocks jitter from the player is a non-issue.

In case crackling is heard while playing a recording of a sax, note that the clicking on the valves opening/closing can sound like a clicking in the electronics. For things like this, rewind the CD to see if the clicking appears in the same spot, but with c. above in mind.

Nick"

CLIENT:

"Nick --- many thanks for this. I didn't think about speaker size/distance/etc settings that would cut in in DSP mode. I know I can set the subwoofer separately for audio and cinema (I don't like to use it for audio). But can I also set speaker size/etc separately by input, or separately for music and movies?

How were you toggling between analog direct and analog DSP? Do I have to leave the D2 in setup mode and flip back and forth? If I'm in analog direct, there doesn't seem to be any way to toggle out of it to any DSP settings without going back into setup.

By the D2's DAC stage, are your referring to the balanced AES 2 channel digital input? I don't have anything that outputs to that input - no digital outputs other than for compressed multichannel.

My DVD player does have both a 6 channel analog out, and a 2 channel analog out that are simultaneously active -- so whatever harm the player's DAC is doing to the CD, it's doing it for both sets of its analog output - so there would be no difference on this -correct?

Thanks again for your thoughtful and helpful response!!"

NICK:

"Hi,

Yes, switch between direct and DSP in the menu. A more convenient method might be to y-split the source into two inputs, one assigned direct and the other DSP.

If your player has a coax or optical output, this is the one you should be using for CD playback, not analog. CD data is 2-channel PCM, not compressed.

You're assuming that all the analog outputs on the player are created equal but there's no guarantee of that from anyone. I have looked inside one top-line DVD-A player and found that only two of its analog channels on its multichannel output had esoteric parts in it, and this practice is not unusual. We don't play tricks like this, however. In the Anthem's case, the only difference from one channel to another is that the 6-channel input on the Statement models is differential (and these six channels are equal with one another except for a THX-required filter on the sub channel).

Nothing I've mentioned has anything to do with the AES/EBU connection. It is nothing more than a variation of coax/optical designed for long cables as encountered in studios.

So in summary:

a. For a level playing field EVERYTHING has to be equal other than the direct vs DSP setting.

b. The result of such a comparison would be moot if you can use a digital output from the player (when playing CD, DD, or DTS whereas multichannel PCM, which comes from hi-def formats DVD-A, Dolby TrueHD, and DTS Master Audio, requires an HDMI connection).

Nick"

I realize you are now using the AES output digitally but out of curiosity, what are the settings on the back of your Ayre?

Cheers,
Jim


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *T100* /forum/post/13942813
> 
> 
> I"ve owned my avm 20 for 6 years now and have loved it. I now have a chance to sell it, and purchase a 50 or a D2. Over the years I have learned the avm20 pretty well. and has been a good performer. So my question is which one, 2nd is I"m a little worried about set up. I"m a home theater nut I"ve spent enough to pay for my home, but I love it and I have to say my wife has given total support on my hobbie. I"m not into boats,cars ect.(work for Lexus so I drive different cars all the time) just this. My set up was done by me and consists of 60XBR2, BPS1 or PS3, XA2 ,MCA5 MCA20 XLR connections, montier 11,cc350 pw2200,adp350,ams250, buttkickers all set up by me. So when it comes to letting the 20 go, and trying to make a go at the 50 or D2 its one with apprehension so I value this website to help thru setup of this. You guys know these units well so any feedback is helpful for my decision. Also will there be sound quality difference from 20 to 50.



T100, I have a D2, depending on your budget and A\\V needs the D2 will be a significant step up.

While it slightly pains me to say this, you should also consider the new Denon Pre/Pro. I believe the D2 and the Denon are close in price and features.

I'm not intimately familiar with the Denon but it has a dedicated thread in this forum.

One thing you will give up in going with the Denon would be the "immediate" level of tech support that Anthem offers but from reading the Denon thread, there have been firmware updates.

While I love my D2 and other Statement gear, I always believe you owe it to yourself to investigate the alternatives.


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13945978
> 
> 
> The calibration files must have names that match the serial number of your D2. The serial # is also encoded into the file so you can't just change the file names and have it work.
> 
> 
> If the ARC install disc provided to you has the wrong files then something was screwed up in the ordering or order fulfillment process, and only Anthem technical support can help you. The plastic protective package for the ARC install disc should also have a label on it showing your D2's serial #. If the label on that plastic case is correct and the files are wrong, then Anthem put the wrong CD into your delivery -- and probably some other D2 owner got your disc.
> 
> 
> If the label on the plastic case matches the file names that are installed, and they are all incorrect, then either the wrong serial # was sent in with your order or Anthem sent you the wrong disc for your order.
> 
> 
> Again, this is not something you can fix yourself. You need to get the matching calibration files for your D2's serial # *AND* for the particular microphone that Anthem sent you. Only Anthem can fix this for you.
> 
> --Bob





I just checked and this is exactly what has happened, the serial number on the disk does NOT match the serial number of my unit, im not sure how this happened which means that there is a possibility that there is someone else out there who is having the same issue because he has my disk, I'll try and put a call int Anthem, thanks for your help


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Jim E.,


The yellow font needs to go buddy...not even visible on a white background, so I got my secret decoder ring out to read this 


That aside, the content of that dialog with Nick is extremely useful for folks here. I see many posts from folks that would benefit from a thorough reading of Nick's statements. Good stuff indeed...thanks for posting that.


FWIW, I watched the new BluRay of Gone Baby Gone last night, and wow, how great is simple Uncompressed 5.1 PCM over HDMI. The gunshots in the next to final scene literally had me flinching to the point I almost fell off the couch...and this is a movie I've seen twice before! As more and more titles come out on BluRay, it is really an exciting time for sure. I'm still hopeful we'll start to see more concert BluRay discs, more music-related stuff, etc. Right now, the Chris Botti live BR, and the Legends of Jazz (Dolby TrueHD) are gonna get worn out over here from excessive playing 


Cheers guys. Have a peaceful Memorial Day everyone,

Brian


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/13949113
> 
> 
> Jim E.,
> 
> 
> The yellow font needs to go buddy...not even visible on a white background, so I got my secret decoder ring out to read this
> 
> 
> That aside, the content of that dialog with Nick is extremely useful for folks here. I see many posts from folks that would benefit from a thorough reading of Nick's statements. Good stuff indeed...thanks for posting that.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers guys. Have a peaceful Memorial Day everyone,
> 
> Brian



Doh! Sorry about the yellow text. I use the black background so I didn't even realize it.


I take a shot at fixing it.


Cheers,

Jim


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13948603
> 
> 
> I've been trying to figure out what Comcast is doing to my HDTV channels that produces the image degradation I am seeing in critical viewing. It's annoying me because my SD-DVD imaging is pretty darned close to PERFECT with the V1.31c software and my current calibration setup.
> 
> 
> I *THINK* what is going on is that Comcast has expanded the digital luminance range from the correct 16-235 range to 0-255 (which necessarily discards Blacker than Black and Peak White data since there is no place to put values less than 0 or higher than 255) and then reduced it back to 16-235.
> 
> 
> The result is that Blacker than Black and Peak White data is clipped (or possibly crushed -- e.g., BTB rounded UP to "black" instead of merely being discarded) *AND* banding is introduced due to the rounding errors during these two range changes. In addition, I suspect there has been a YCbCr to RGB and back to YCbCr conversion involved and that the wrong color math was used for Studio vs. Extended RGB as part of that (which is distinct from the HDTV vs SDTV color space math issue). This would show up as color decoder style errors.
> 
> 
> This is the simplest "mistake" I can think of that would explain what I am seeing.
> 
> 
> The alternative is that it is not a "mistake". That instead they are deliberately recompressing these channels to reduce the bandwidth they take up on the cable (bit starving and resolution reduction -- the infamous "HD-lite") and are just doing it in a particularly heavy handed fashion. The reason I favor the "mistake" is that I'm not seeing the posterization that would normally accompany bit starving.
> 
> 
> What's really weird is that my SDTV channels have never looked better! There is still the usual range of bad SDTV content to good (and the bad will ALWAYS look bad), but the channels delivering good quality imaging look better than before. It's always tough to make such comparisons because cable and satellite companies can change their transmission configuration on the fly -- hour by hour in some cases.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> I think I may also try swapping out my Comcast box just to make sure it is not a hardware failure in the box itself. But I think that's unlikely because typical hardware failures should look a lot worse.
> 
> --Bob





Bob, Comcast (in Denver) just added several new HD Channels and as a result are bit crushing... I think they are trying to keep up with DR TV and in turn we the consumer are suffering. I was reading in the comcast forums that this is happening nationaly. I have stuck with Comcast all these years because I enjoyed the quality of their HD signal....looks like that might be a thing of the past.


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13945978
> 
> 
> The calibration files must have names that match the serial number of your D2. The serial # is also encoded into the file so you can't just change the file names and have it work.
> 
> 
> If the ARC install disc provided to you has the wrong files then something was screwed up in the ordering or order fulfillment process, and only Anthem technical support can help you. The plastic protective package for the ARC install disc should also have a label on it showing your D2's serial #. If the label on that plastic case is correct and the files are wrong, then Anthem put the wrong CD into your delivery -- and probably some other D2 owner got your disc.
> 
> 
> If the label on the plastic case matches the file names that are installed, and they are all incorrect, then either the wrong serial # was sent in with your order or Anthem sent you the wrong disc for your order.
> 
> 
> Again, this is not something you can fix yourself. You need to get the matching calibration files for your D2's serial # *AND* for the particular microphone that Anthem sent you. Only Anthem can fix this for you.
> 
> --Bob




Bob I spoke with Piero from the Anthem tech support team and he emailed me files that should correspond with my unit, hopefully I will get a chance later this week to try the calibration again. Does anyone know if you lose youre original settings once you try to apply the calibration? Piero said that you dont all you do is bypass the ARC1 settings and you go back to your original settings, anyone have any experience with this? I lost my original settings when I tried to apply ARC1, Piero said that shouldnt have happened and maybe it did because I didnt have the right files to begin with. Although I did save them in user and installer files before attempting the calibration I tried to load back my saved settings after the failed calibration but I received an error when I tried to reload and my settings all went back to default. whats the best way to save the settings or do I need to worry about that now that I have the correct files?


----------



## psanon

I am new to this thread and I have just installed an Anthem D2 with the ARC. I am quite pleased with the results of the ARC but have some questions. I realise I maybe rehashing questions that already have been answered. If this is so, please point me to the relevant portions of the thread.


1. It has been mentioned many times that the height of Microphone is very important. Given a choice, do you set the height of the MIC at ear height or at the front main speaker's tweeter height.


2. What is the room gain setting and what does it affect. The only complaint that I have with the "after" effects of the ARC is a residual tubbiness in the sound. The main speakers are Paradigm S6s and the center is a C3.


Using a RTA I see that there is a broad 4 db or so hump in the range from 80Hz - 200Hz. I am wondering if reducing the room gain manually would get rid of this, or would it introduce other errors by the ARC.


3. Like a lot of people on the thread the results of the ARC seem to place the crossovers at a very high frequency. In my case the crossovers are placed by the ARC as follows:


S6- 55HZ

C3 - 70 Hz

ADP 590 (Surround and Rears) - 110Hz

Definitive Trinity Subwoofer - 110Hz


Again, is there some benefit to reducing this (esp in the main speakers, which in my room are flat to about 35Hz) and in reducing the subwoofer crossover to 80Hz or below.


If there is a thread on this already could a kind soul point me to it.


Overall though, I must admit that the ARC has been a revelation. It certainly is as good as the TACT that I have been using in the past on my music system. I now have an option of combining my music and cinema system which I did not have before.


psanon


----------



## uppacreek

Bob, Tom & Jim, thanks for your comments...looks like I've got some further work to do! Bob's suggestions and Nick's email exchange are quite informative...I realize that I'll need to have another look at my settings (i.e. speaker config, etc) to ensure a level playing field for comparison purposes. You guys have covered all the bases, I'll check it out and post back.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/13948730
> 
> 
> I realize you are now using the AES output digitally but out of curiosity, what are the settings on the back of your Ayre?



Jim, the back of the C-5xe has both balanced and unbalanced outputs for analog direct, plus the AES/EBU digital output. There's a switch to turn off/on the digital output plus select the digital sample rate (I leave this at 44/48 kHz for regular CD's).


There's also a "digital filter" at the back which, despite the name, only affects the analog outputs. The filter has two user-selectable algorithms. According to Ayre, one algorithm produces greater accuracy in the time domain and the other produces greater accuracy in the frequency domain. After experimenting with this switch, I prefer the former setting over the latter.


Peter


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *psanon* /forum/post/13951907
> 
> 
> I am new to this thread and I have just installed an Anthem D2 with the ARC. I am quite pleased with the results of the ARC but have some questions. I realise I maybe rehashing questions that already have been answered. If this is so, please point me to the relevant portions of the thread.



This is it. I would recommend searching on 'Bob Pariseau' and 'ARC.'


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *psanon* /forum/post/13951907
> 
> 
> 1. It has been mentioned many times that the height of Microphone is very important. Given a choice, do you set the height of the MIC at ear height or at the front main speaker's tweeter height.



EAR height. You are measuring based on where YOU sit.


Think of it this way - you are NOT measuring your speakers. You are measuring *the response of your room* to your speakers.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *psanon* /forum/post/13951907
> 
> 
> 2. What is the room gain setting and what does it affect. The only complaint that I have with the "after" effects of the ARC is a residual tubbiness in the sound. The main speakers are Paradigm S6s and the center is a C3.
> 
> 
> Using a RTA I see that there is a broad 4 db or so hump in the range from 80Hz - 200Hz. I am wondering if reducing the room gain manually would get rid of this, or would it introduce other errors by the ARC.



The simplest description is that the Room Gain is a psychoacoustic response curve.


Room Gain is your friend - you WANT it. It may seem as though you want a flat ROOM response, but you don't. What is good for speakers is not good for listening in a room.


The Room Gain is fundamental to the ARC-1 system, and comes out of more than a decade of research by the Canadian National Research Council.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *psanon* /forum/post/13951907
> 
> 
> 3. Like a lot of people on the thread the results of the ARC seem to place the crossovers at a very high frequency. In my case the crossovers are placed by the ARC as follows:
> 
> 
> S6- 55HZ
> 
> C3 - 70 Hz
> 
> ADP 590 (Surround and Rears) - 110Hz
> 
> Definitive Trinity Subwoofer - 110Hz
> 
> 
> Again, is there some benefit to reducing this (esp in the main speakers, which in my room are flat to about 35Hz) and in reducing the subwoofer crossover to 80Hz or below.



My first thought is that your room may have some low frequency modes. There is only so much that ARC-1 can do to compensate for a room.


In addition, you have some anomaly due to how you measured - possibly re-measuring may give you better results.


So far, the majority of ARC users seem to report that they do not improve on ARC by 'tweaking.'


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/13951546
> 
> 
> Bob I spoke with Piero from the Anthem tech support team and he emailed me files that should correspond with my unit, hopefully I will get a chance later this week to try the calibration again. Does anyone know if you lose youre original settings once you try to apply the calibration? Piero said that you dont all you do is bypass the ARC1 settings and you go back to your original settings, anyone have any experience with this? I lost my original settings when I tried to apply ARC1, Piero said that shouldnt have happened and maybe it did because I didnt have the right files to begin with. Although I did save them in user and installer files before attempting the calibration I tried to load back my saved settings after the failed calibration but I received an error when I tried to reload and my settings all went back to default. whats the best way to save the settings or do I need to worry about that now that I have the correct files?



Uploading ARC results will alter the speaker level and cross over settings found in the Setup menu. The altered settings for speaker levels and cross overs will be used whether or not Room EQ is turned on for any given source. This means you should not change them to something else after uploading ARC results or you will screw up ARC audio.


And in particular this means you should re-Save your User and/or Installer settings after uploading ARC results so that they reflect the changes made by ARC to speaker levels and cross overs. Thus you won't accidentally screw up those settings if you later need to reload User or Installer settings.


Before doing the ARC measurements you should go into the Setup menu and specify your desired speaker configuration for Movie (and Music if it doesn't match Movie). This should match the number of speakers you tell ARC to measure when you do your ARC measurements.


You can also adjust the Setup / Level Calibration / Noise Level setting and ARC will use that to determine the volume level for its test sweep tones. This is useful if the default sweep tone volume is a little low and you get asked to do too many retries. Don't raise this too high or you may trigger a protective reaction in your subwoofer. Just raising it 2 or 3dB should be plenty.


You must also manually set up your speaker distances and the polarity and phase settings for your subwoofer. Since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time, you can re-adjust the polarity and phase settings for the subwoofer AFTER uploading ARC results without having to re-measure and re-upload ARC results.


In addition to the speaker levels and cross overs, ARC uploads processing results data that you can NOT see in the Setup menu. This data is kept independently of the User and Installer settings, and won't even be wiped out if you Reload Factory Defaults. (You can wipe it out intentionally by telling ARC to Upload results without specifying a results file to use.)


There have been numerous reports here that the current ARC software can fail to fully Upload its results and that its confirmation process isn't detecting this. Presumably the cause is a problem in the serial connection, but it is rather nasty that ARC will tell you it has properly uploaded stuff when that is not the case. Anthem is aware of this and is working on a fix. For now, you should run ARC in "advanced" mode, open the file with your saved results, and check out the Targets window for Movie and Music. Then double check that the cross overs specified in the Targets windows actually got set in the Setup menu in the D2 for the Movie and Music configurations. Also, double check your speaker level settings in the Setup menu and see if they make sense to you. If you find that any speaker level or cross over data has NOT been uploaded properly then you can't trust the ARC configuration in your D2. In such case, it is usually just a matter of re-uploading the results (i.e., you don't also have to re-measure). Just run ARC in "advanced" mode, open the file with your saved measurements and calculated results, and tell ARC to Upload again. You can do this on the same computer, or you may want to try doing just the re-upload on a different computer with a different serial connection.


Except for speaker level and cross over values, and the "hidden" filter results that ARC uploads, an ARC upload will not alter any of your other Setup menu or Video Source Adjust menu settings. In particular, this means you have to go in and MANUALLY turn Room EQ=On in Setup / Source Setup for each source after doing the first ARC upload. If you forget to do this, then you won't be hearing ARC audio. All you will hear is the adjustments ARC made to speaker levels and cross overs.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *psanon* /forum/post/13951907
> 
> 
> I am new to this thread and I have just installed an Anthem D2 with the ARC. I am quite pleased with the results of the ARC but have some questions. I realise I maybe rehashing questions that already have been answered. If this is so, please point me to the relevant portions of the thread.
> 
> 
> 1. It has been mentioned many times that the height of Microphone is very important. Given a choice, do you set the height of the MIC at ear height or at the front main speaker's tweeter height.
> 
> 
> 2. What is the room gain setting and what does it affect. The only complaint that I have with the "after" effects of the ARC is a residual tubbiness in the sound. The main speakers are Paradigm S6s and the center is a C3.
> 
> 
> Using a RTA I see that there is a broad 4 db or so hump in the range from 80Hz - 200Hz. I am wondering if reducing the room gain manually would get rid of this, or would it introduce other errors by the ARC.
> 
> 
> 3. Like a lot of people on the thread the results of the ARC seem to place the crossovers at a very high frequency. In my case the crossovers are placed by the ARC as follows:
> 
> 
> S6- 55HZ
> 
> C3 - 70 Hz
> 
> ADP 590 (Surround and Rears) - 110Hz
> 
> Definitive Trinity Subwoofer - 110Hz
> 
> 
> Again, is there some benefit to reducing this (esp in the main speakers, which in my room are flat to about 35Hz) and in reducing the subwoofer crossover to 80Hz or below.
> 
> 
> If there is a thread on this already could a kind soul point me to it.
> 
> 
> Overall though, I must admit that the ARC has been a revelation. It certainly is as good as the TACT that I have been using in the past on my music system. I now have an option of combining my music and cinema system which I did not have before.
> 
> 
> psanon



ARC is probably setting your main speaker cross overs correctly. Ideally you do NOT want the cross over right down to the bottom of what the speaker can reproduce cleanly, because the cross over is not a hard cutoff and some audio will be sent to those speakers below the cross over frequency. The typical rule of thumb for manual setup of cross overs is to keep the main speaker cross overs at or above twice the lowest rated frequency of the main speakers and to keep the subwoofer cross over at or below half its top rated frequency. This octave of "safety margin" allows for good reproduction of audio sent beyond the cross over.


Your subwoofer cross over looks high. Typically this would be because ARC is measuring poor performance from your subwoofer. The most common reason for that is that you have a cross over turned on inside your subwoofer itself. Instead you should either disable the subwoofer's internal cross over or set it to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way and let the D2 do the job. Poor subwoofer performance can also be a result of the specific placement and positioning of your subwoofer. Try adjusting its position -- often just a few inches will make a big difference. Look at the "measured" subwoofer curve in ARC's "advanced" mode to see what ARC is hearing.


Your surround crossovers could be getting biased by incorrect height position of the mic during the ARC measurement. Place the mic at seated ear height. Also -- VERY IMPORTANT -- make sure the mic positions that you use are separated from each other by at least 12 inches (18 to 24 inches is probably better). This separation is crucial to proper ARC measurement as it is how ARC distinguishes between room response and the inherent performance characteristics of each speaker.


The "hump" you are seeing *IS* the Room Gain. It is there quite deliberately and is a major feature of what you are paying for with ARC. Let it stay.


Your perception of the bass response has two possible reasons. First, ARC may not have UPLOADED its results correctly. Check that the cross overs and speaker levels in the Setup menu have all been Uploaded correctly. For the cross overs, compare to what ARC displays in its Targets windows. For the level settings, just see if the values that end up in the Setup menu make sense. If any of that is wrong then you've been bitten by the bug in the current ARC software where the Upload confirmation process is not doing its job. Re-upload the ARC results (no need to re-measure) until you get all these values properly uploaded. You may need to switch to a different computer to get the Upload to work cleanly. Given what you are reporting, I think it is pretty likely that ARC failed to Upload the cross overs correctly. Checking those is the first thing to do.


Second, your bass response may be getting colored by the fact that ARC decided it needed to raise your subwoofer crossover so high. Again, check your mic positioning, turn off any cross over inside the sub itself, and consider repositioning the sub.

--Bob


----------



## sbwright

After mulling it over and over I finally took the plunge and upgraded my AVM50(1.06) to a new D2(1.31) with ARC.


As I sit here watching/listening to the Eagles I can absolutely see a positive difference in the video on the SD DVD from the older software on the AVM50.


The sound has also improved don’t know how much is attributable to the D2 or the D2 with ARC.


Discovered the Richard syndrome with my front right speaker which I hadn’t noticed, likely due to the sub sitting right next to it. Clearly visible on the chart provided by ARC.


Looking forward to some time to check out the new capabilities.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13954314
> 
> 
> The "hump" you are seeing *IS* the Room Gain. It is there quite deliberately and is a major feature of what you are paying for with ARC. Let it stay.



OK but why is the subwoofer target response, in my system, always 7-8dB higher than the target responses of the main speakers, whether room gain is on or off?


----------



## funlvr1965

as far as setting the speaker distances for ARC to use the current distances reflected in my setup in the D2 are NOT THE PHYSICAL distances of my speakers, that is to say when my speakers were recently installed by an audio engineer (Mark Seaton) he found it helpful to exaggerate some of the distances in doing his calibration in tandom with changing crossovers, the result yielded a more spacious and enveloping sound. Now my question is now that I will be giving ARC try should I go in and change his settings to reflect the Actual speaker distances for ARC to use or should I just leave the settings the way they are, im assuming that the distances he set would only work with his calibration.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/13955452
> 
> 
> as far as setting the speaker distances for ARC to use the current distances reflected in my setup in the D2 are NOT THE PHYSICAL distances of my speakers, that is to say when my speakers were recently installed by an audio engineer (Mark Seaton) he found it helpful to exaggerate some of the distances in doing his calibration in tandom with changing crossovers, the result yielded a more spacious and enveloping sound. Now my question is now that I will be giving ARC try should I go in and change his settings to reflect the Actual speaker distances for ARC to use or should I just leave the settings the way they are, im assuming that the distances he set would only work with his calibration.



All that the speaker distance settings do is establish the relative time delay between the speakers so that sounds that are supposed to reach your ears at the same time actually do so.


I've not heard before of anyone deliberately entering incorrect speaker distances to "improve" the sound, but there are things that are done by surround sound algorithms to deliberately "de-correlate" mono audio from paired speakers (e.g., mono portions going to both side surrounds or both rear surrounds) to create the effect of more enveloping surround sound. In fact the THX post processing algorithm in the Anthems includes just that feature. Such de-correlation is simply a timing mismatch that would be like entering the distances incorrectly. However the THX algorithm is smart enough only to apply it to the portions of the surround audio that happen to be mono (same content going to both surround speakers).


ARC doesn't know anything about the speaker distances for its calculations. It simply assumes you will have the speaker distances and the subwoofer phase and polarity properly set up.


So I suppose you could do an experiment with Room EQ (i.e., ARC audio) turned on and just switching between the correct distance settings and the ones your audio engineer used. There's no need to remeasure ARC either way.


So, which speakers have "incorrect" distances in his setup? All of them? Or just the surrounds?


There really shouldn't be any relationship between the speaker distance settings and the cross over settings.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/13955008
> 
> 
> OK but why is the subwoofer target response, in my system, always 7-8dB higher than the target responses of the main speakers, whether room gain is on or off?



I don't know the answer to that. Have you posted your ARC charts here, I can't recall?


You may need to give Anthem a call for info on that as 7-8dB hot sounds pretty strange.


I think ARC targets bass about 3dB hot at least for Movie configuration. That's a pretty typical rule of thumb for manual setups. But I don't know that we've seen enough charts here to draw any general conclusions yet.

--Bob


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13956016
> 
> 
> All that the speaker distance settings do is establish the relative time delay between the speakers so that sounds that are supposed to reach your ears at the same time actually do so.
> 
> 
> I've not heard before of anyone deliberately entering incorrect speaker distances to "improve" the sound, but there are things that are done by surround sound algorithms to deliberately "de-correlate" mono audio from paired speakers (e.g., mono portions going to both side surrounds or both rear surrounds) to create the effect of more enveloping surround sound. In fact the THX post processing algorithm in the Anthems includes just that feature. Such de-correlation is simply a timing mismatch that would be like entering the distances incorrectly. However the THX algorithm is smart enough only to apply it to the portions of the surround audio that happen to be mono (same content going to both surround speakers).
> 
> 
> ARC doesn't know anything about the speaker distances for its calculations. It simply assumes you will have the speaker distances and the subwoofer phase and polarity properly set up.
> 
> 
> So I suppose you could do an experiment with Room EQ (i.e., ARC audio) turned on and just switching between the correct distance settings and the ones your audio engineer used. There's no need to remeasure ARC either way.
> 
> 
> So, which speakers have "incorrect" distances in his setup? All of them? Or just the surrounds?
> 
> 
> There really shouldn't be any relationship between the speaker distance settings and the cross over settings.
> 
> --Bob




I believe the rear and side surrounds have the deliberate distance settings


----------



## jayray

Have had trouble getting sound when my PJ is turned off. Now I can get sound if I enter the setup menu and just scroll down. Eventually the sound comes on and stays on. Nick at Anthem said there will be a new firmware above 1.31c, posted by the end of the week on link 1. It is supposed to have a new HDMI driver which he thinks may correct this issue.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/13957033
> 
> 
> I believe the rear and side surrounds have the deliberate distance settings



Try using the correct distance settings with THX turned on and compare to the altered distances. I suspect you'll find that the de-correlation THX provides will give you similar results.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/13955008
> 
> 
> OK but why is the subwoofer target response, in my system, always 7-8dB higher than the target responses of the main speakers, whether room gain is on or off?



Kal, I just had another thought: Check the speaker level settings that ARC uploads into the Setup menu and see it any of them are at the limit (+/- 10dB). It could be that ARC can't lower your subwoofer's volume enough given its current, internal volume setting. I.e., if you manually lower the volume control built into your subwoofer, ARC might be able to get all the speakers to the same target level.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13957558
> 
> 
> Kal, I just had another thought: Check the speaker level settings that ARC uploads into the Setup menu and see it any of them are at the limit (+/- 10dB). It could be that ARC can't lower your subwoofer's volume enough given its current, internal volume setting. I.e., if you manually lower the volume control built into your subwoofer, ARC might be able to get all the speakers to the same target level.
> 
> --Bob



Good try. The level sets for the main speakers are within +/-2dB (all Paradigm Studios) but, remember, I am talking about the *target*, not the measured or the calculated. ARC sets the sub at +5db (calculated) but, in order to have it so that not everything sounds like it was recorded in the subway, I have knock it down to values from -3 to -8dB!


Also, is there are restriction on the name of the upload file? If I have a target/measured/calculated file which I call "New2Anthem Room Correction.ARC," will it upload? I tried several times and got a motor-boating on the right front channel. Only when re-named (temporarily) to "Anthem Room Correction.ARC" would it load and function.


----------



## AbMagFab

Any news on a D2 update capable of receiving 7.1 over HDMI?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13958172
> 
> 
> Any news on a D2 update capable of receiving 7.1 over HDMI?



Is this a wishlist or a rumour?

John


----------



## cpcat

As long as we're wishing, I'd like to see 1080p24 output for 1080i/480i film sources sometime soon.


----------



## RROSEN

Hi guys,


Was wondering about something. I just watched Rambo (the new one) on BR through my PS3 with 7.1 DTS HD MA selected.


When I checked the audio input on the D2 it said 2 channel L/R only... ?


I am hoping this is just a glitch with this one particular disk, but I guess I will need to check a few others.


Has anyone else seen this with the PS3/D2 combo and or other players sending DTS HD MA to the D2?


I sure hope that this is not the default way that the D2 received DTS HD MA via HDMI PCM. I really have no issues or concerns with not being able to get all 7 channels, but I had assumed I would be getting 5.1 and not 2.0.


I guess I need to find and test more 7.1 DTS MA and some 5.1 DTS MA's to see what is happening and it would be interesting to see if folks with other players going to the D2 get the same thing.


This would be a significant issue/concern for me to say the least. It is even worse because for at least this particular disk, 7.1 DTS MA is the only English option so I can't even downgrade to DD 5.1 or something.


Cheers,


Richard


PS. Sorry if this has already been discussed, but I am still catching up with the last couple weeks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RROSEN,

Since I don't have my PS3 yet, I can't double check this for you, but you shouldn't have any of the 7.1 LPCM output options enabled in the PS3. Leave the 5.1 options enabled and the PS3 should convert the 7.1 DTS-HD MA track to 5.1 I believe by combining the rear surround info into the side channels.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/13958172
> 
> 
> Any news on a D2 update capable of receiving 7.1 over HDMI?



Nope. I doubt we'll see it any time soon.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/13958979
> 
> 
> As long as we're wishing, I'd like to see 1080p24 output for 1080i/480i film sources sometime soon.



This one, on the other hand, we SHOULD see soon.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/13958158
> 
> 
> Good try. The level sets for the main speakers are within +/-2dB (all Paradigm Studios) but, remember, I am talking about the *target*, not the measured or the calculated. ARC sets the sub at +5db (calculated) but, in order to have it so that not everything sounds like it was recorded in the subway, I have knock it down to values from -3 to -8dB!
> 
> 
> Also, is there are restriction on the name of the upload file? If I have a target/measured/calculated file which I call "New2Anthem Room Correction.ARC," will it upload? I tried several times and got a motor-boating on the right front channel. Only when re-named (temporarily) to "Anthem Room Correction.ARC" would it load and function.



The Targets were what I was referring to, although apparently you don't have this problem. My theory was that if the speakers were too far out of trim ARC might leave the subwoofer targeted hot in comparison to the other speakers simply because ARC knew it couldn't be trimmed back enough.


I haven't spotted any issues with ARC file names. If Windows allows it then ARC appears fine with it too.


However, there IS a known issue with ARC 1.1 apparently not detecting that the Upload did not, in fact, complete correctly. Most commonly people see this when they check the speaker level settings or cross overs in the Setup menu after the Upload and discover either that the speaker levels don't make sense (e.g., some speaker set to 0dB when you know it needs a trim value) or the cross overs don't match the values you find in the ARC Targets window.


I believe the noise you were hearing was an example of a faulty Upload. I've also had one case where I believe doing a recalculation within an existing file ended up with a corrupted set of results that, even when uploaded without apparent error, produced a rumble. I save my measurements in a write-protected file and do calculations in a copy of that file. When I got a new copy and redid the calculation, the upload produced good results.


I don't know that Anthem has resolved this Upload issue yet (nor whatever I might have done to corrupt my calculated results in that one case), but I'm sure they are working on it. For now, the best you can do is check the Setup menu for cross overs and speaker levels to see if they match what you think ARC was trying to Upload. And if not, redo the Upload -- perhaps with a different computer if the problem persists.


-----------------------------------


ARC apparently adjusts its Targets according to what it thinks your speakers are capable of handling. If there's something wrong in the way you did the measurement, then the Targets can be screwy. For example, if you measure with the mic positions too close together, ARC sees actual Room Response as being inherent performance of the speakers (since the too-close mic positions show no variation). And that can cause ARC to think the speakers are poor performers -- and adjust its Targets accordingly.


But again, I don't think we've discovered anything here which would explain ARC targeting your subwoofer so hot. And I can't think of a mistake you might have made in the measurement process that would account for that. You really should give Anthem tech support a call and see if they have any suggestions on this one. I don't believe we've had any other reports here of a target level setting problem like this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I swapped out my Comcast/Motorola DCT3412 HD-DVR today. I had two goals in mind:


First, I wanted to see if a different box had different behavior when switching HDMI resolutions (between SD and HD TV channels). The answer is no. The new box takes just as long to sync up with the D2 as the old box -- static flashes and green screens that eventually settle down and lock in -- and the new box appears just as likely as the old box to exhibit brief static flashes while watching a given channel (i.e., apparent momentary loss of HDCP with a retry). Perhaps the updated HDMI software expected soon from Anthem will help with these issues.


Second, I wanted to see if the new box had any differences in the video calibration issues I've been fighting. Again the answer is no. This is additional evidence that Comcast is screwing up the retransmission of these channels.


I did find a better compromise setting for use with the Comcast box. You may recall that with HDMI 480i from my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi standard DVD player, I found the following settings in the D2 close to ideal:


Brightness 50, Contrast 50, Color 51, Tint 48, Exponential Gamma 114


I know what this DVD player is putting out in response to the data coming off the disc -- it is a good reference source. So I would expect other good HDMI source devices to respond well to these identical settings.


But so far the best I had found with the Comcast box (HDMI 1080i or 480i) was:


Brightness 49, Contrast 49, Color 51, Tint 48, Exponential Gamma 114


The new settings I've now got for the Comcast box seem to be cleaner. They are:


Brightness 49, Contrast 50, Color 51, Tint 48, Exponential Gamma 116


That is, by trading off a slightly "darker" Gamma correction with a one step increase in Contrast I was able to reduce banding still further without degrading other aspects of the picture. It's still not "right", but it is closer.


Curiously the intermediate Gamma value of 115 produced worse results than either the original 114 (with Contrast 49) or the new 116 (with Contrast 50).


Again, I think I'm fighting with Comcast video that is already damaged before it ever gets into the D2. Normally I would try to pick some clean channel as reference, calibrate for that, and let the damaged channels fend for themselves. But I'm not really sure I've GOT a clean HD channel at this point, and the damaged HD channels are too annoying, particularly in dark scenes and misted scenes. So I'm in calibration compromise mode. Sigh....

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13960259
> 
> 
> I believe the noise you were hearing was an example of a faulty Upload. I've also had one case where I believe doing a recalculation within an existing file ended up with a corrupted set of results that, even when uploaded without apparent error, produced a rumble. I save my measurements in a write-protected file and do calculations in a copy of that file. When I got a new copy and redid the calculation, the upload produced good results.



That is probably what I experienced although I was distracted by my simultaneous manipulations of the filenames.



> Quote:
> And if not, redo the Upload -- perhaps with a different computer if the problem persists.



Only can use one possible PC without great effort. The first weekend, I had no trouble with 3-4 edits/uploads but this weekend, it took 5-6 tries before success. Very troubling.



> Quote:
> But again, I don't think we've discovered anything here which would explain ARC targeting your subwoofer so hot. And I can't think of a mistake you might have made in the measurement process that would account for that. You really should give Anthem tech support a call and see if they have any suggestions on this one. I don't believe we've had any other reports here of a target level setting problem like this.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. I have been corresponding with Nick about my tribulations (most of which could be eliminated with a decent user's manual) but he has not yet addressed this particular problem.


----------



## barhoram

The last few times I have powered on the D2, I get a blue screen with no picture(except for the Anthem's OSD) on the DirectTV HR21 over component until I change channels or sometimes have to change sources (DVD back to HR21). The HR21 is set

fixed 1080i to the Anthem. In the past it has always popped up with a picture with no problems. I think I'm on 1.31a or b firmware. Anyone else have this issue? Thoughts??


----------



## LEVESQUE

Now that room-eq is out, Anthem are now working hard on the evolution of the D2. D3 maybe, or something else...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/13961020
> 
> 
> The last few times I have powered on the D2, I get a blue screen with no picture(except for the Anthem's OSD) on the DirectTV HR21 over component until I change channels or sometimes have to change sources (DVD back to HR21). The HR21 is set
> 
> fixed 1080i to the Anthem. In the past it has always popped up with a picture with no problems. I think I'm on 1.31a or b firmware. Anyone else have this issue? Thoughts??



I believe Anthem is still adjusting their power up sequence to address such problems, but this is the first time I've heard of folks having a problem like this with a Component input source.


You say you can get the On Screen Display. What does it show for video input if you press Select a few times when it fails to power up properly? And can you think of anything that might have changed in your setup since it last worked reliably? I.e., did it ever work reliably for you under the V1.31 firmware?


It would probably be good for you to get in touch with Anthem tech support about this so that they can make test software available to you when they think they have a fix.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13960213
> 
> 
> RROSEN,
> 
> Since I don't have my PS3 yet, I can't double check this for you, but you shouldn't have any of the 7.1 LPCM output options enabled in the PS3. Leave the 5.1 options enabled and the PS3 should convert the 7.1 DTS-HD MA track to 5.1 I believe by combining the rear surround info into the side channels.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


If I have a 7.1 setup, are you saying I should still tell the ps3 to send only 5.1? I realize I won't get 7.1 by hdmi but will this cause mix-ups with the original tracks when the anthem converts it with PLIIx?


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/13961369
> 
> 
> Now that room-eq is out, Anthem are now working hard on the evolution of the D2. D3 maybe, or something else...



Tease...


An entirely new platform could have all sorts of changes of course, but I'll be very surprised if they can do something like add true 7.1 channel in and out as just an "upgrade" to the D2. Such a change would affect almost all of the electronics.


It will also be interesting to see if they stick with the Gennum video processor in a new version.


From the time you first heard about the D2 until it was released was what? About a year? Longer?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/13961609
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> If I have a 7.1 setup, are you saying I should still tell the ps3 to send only 5.1? I realize I won't get 7.1 by hdmi but will this cause mix-ups with the original tracks when the anthem converts it with PLIIx?
> 
> 
> John



No, that's the way it is supposed to work. Tell the PS3 to send 5.1 to the Anthem. When you play a 7.1 track, the PS3 will decode any rear channel information into the side channels. The Anthem (via PLIIx for example) will extract rear information from the 5.1 input and send that to the rear speakers.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/13961609
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> If I have a 7.1 setup, are you saying I should still tell the ps3 to send only 5.1? I realize I won't get 7.1 by hdmi but will this cause mix-ups with the original tracks when the anthem converts it with PLIIx?
> 
> 
> John



Well I am thoroughly confused now. Truth be told, this is not the first time










Did as Bob said and checked my PS3 settings and none of the 7.1 options were selected. Save, exit.


Tried The Golden Compass and with 7.1 DTS MA I got the expected 5.1 to the D2. Was then thinking it was maybe just the Rambo Disk and since I don't have any other 7.1 DTS MA disks I decided to double-check it.


And of course it now also outputs 5.1 to the D2 lol.


There is no doubt it wasn't before unless I managed to hallucinate through 3-4 checks of the D2 onscreen status as well as confirming that the PS3's Rambo menu was in fact set to 7.1 DTS MA. I know this for sure since the only audio options are English 7.1 DTS MA and French. Almost positive I didn't watch it in French.










Realistically the only likely option is that in fact my PS3 DID have some of the 7.1 options enabled for some reason, but when you enter the menu or select Automatic it reverts to NOT having them selected. Then when I saved and exited I was all good.


The thing that makes no sense is that I never would have set the 7.1 options since the D2 does not accept them. They may have automatically gotten set when the update was applied I guess, but that doesn't explain how I watched TGC without any issues either. Very strange.


Adventures in Richardland continue hahaa.


Maybe I shouldn't have watched 1408. Maybe my PS3 is now haunted. Sure it was HD cable, but you never know... You just never know.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13961593
> 
> 
> I believe Anthem is still adjusting their power up sequence to address such problems, but this is the first time I've heard of folks having a problem like this with a Component input source.
> 
> 
> You say you can get the On Screen Display. What does it show for video input if you press Select a few times when it fails to power up properly? And can you think of anything that might have changed in your setup since it last worked reliably? I.e., did it ever work reliably for you under the V1.31 firmware?
> 
> 
> It would probably be good for you to get in touch with Anthem tech support about this so that they can make test software available to you when they think they have a fix.
> 
> --Bob




While not identical, I have had issues with my D2 not playing nice with my Tivo S3 set on "native" when I change from a HD channel to a 480i channel (basically, the screen flashes and the processor locks up until I power down the D2 or change inputs). The "lockup" happens whether I use HDMI or component. If I set the Tivo to output 1080i, the problem goes away.


Nick believes it is a software issue that he said would be addressed in a future firmware update. Based on some chatter on the Tivo forums, it may be in part the fault of the most recent Tivo firmware (although I do not see this issue with another S3 connected directly to a Samsung LCD panel).


Alan


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/13961369
> 
> 
> Now that room-eq is out, Anthem are now working hard on the evolution of the D2. D3 maybe, or something else...



I'll start saving up my (depreciating







) US dollars! Hopefully there will be some sort of upgrade/trade-in for us pioneers (aka the ones with the occasional arrow in their backs)...


Say, Levesque - as the owner of this thread, you might want to update the first post to indicate the current firmware (1.31) and the fact that the Room EQ has shipped (and has a name). As people read the reviews that come out on ARC-1 and D2, there may be a surge in new owners looking for information... This thread is an incredible source of information, but more daunting every day.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13962359
> 
> 
> While not identical, I have had issues with my D2 not playing nice with my Tivo S3 set on "native" when I change from a HD channel to a 480i channel (basically, the screen flashes and the processor locks up until I power down the D2 or change inputs). The "lockup" happens whether I use HDMI or component. If I set the Tivo to output 1080i, the problem goes away.
> 
> 
> Nick believes it is a software issue that he said would be addressed in a future firmware update. Based on some chatter on the Tivo forums, it may be in part the fault of the most recent Tivo firmware (although I do not see this issue with another S3 connected directly to a Samsung LCD panel).
> 
> 
> Alan



Yeah had/have the same issue with my Rogers 8300HD PVR via HDMI. Switching channels, opening the menus or PVR recorded screens all caused green screen sync issues. If I got it too often in a short period of time the D2 would sometimes freeze and require a restart to fix.


This eventually led me to try using the Component which realistically with the 1080i PVR output looked pretty much identical from the best I could compare.


Maybe the HDMI is a little sharper or a little more resistant to motion effects, but that is next to impossible to tell for sure unless I could somehow side by side it which I cannot.


My Bell ExpressVu 9200HD PVR had no such issues. Are you listening Rogers hahaa. They really hate each other lol.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## AnthemAVM

Anyone who is waiting on the ARC, get notice that they are shipping yet? I have been waiting for several weeks.


Michael


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13962082
> 
> 
> Well I am thoroughly confused now. Truth be told, this is not the first time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did as Bob said and checked my PS3 settings and none of the 7.1 options were selected. Save, exit.
> 
> 
> Tried The Golden Compass and with 7.1 DTS MA I got the expected 5.1 to the D2. Was then thinking it was maybe just the Rambo Disk and since I don't have any other 7.1 DTS MA disks I decided to double-check it.
> 
> 
> And of course it now also outputs 5.1 to the D2 lol.
> 
> 
> There is no doubt it wasn't before unless I managed to hallucinate through 3-4 checks of the D2 onscreen status as well as confirming that the PS3's Rambo menu was in fact set to 7.1 DTS MA. I know this for sure since the only audio options are English 7.1 DTS MA and French. Almost positive I didn't watch it in French.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Realistically the only likely option is that in fact my PS3 DID have some of the 7.1 options enabled for some reason, but when you enter the menu or select Automatic it reverts to NOT having them selected. Then when I saved and exited I was all good.
> 
> 
> The thing that makes no sense is that I never would have set the 7.1 options since the D2 does not accept them. They may have automatically gotten set when the update was applied I guess, but that doesn't explain how I watched TGC without any issues either. Very strange.
> 
> 
> Adventures in Richardland continue hahaa.
> 
> 
> Maybe I shouldn't have watched 1408. Maybe my PS3 is now haunted. Sure it was HD cable, but you never know... You just never know.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Richard,

Just did what Bob suggested. My ps3 had 7.1 checked but I know I set it this way initially. Changed it this morning and tested some 7.1 discs. Surround is more coherent and less jumbled. Thanks once again Bob.

John


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/13962690
> 
> 
> Say, Levesque - as the owner of this thread, you might want to update the first post to indicate the current firmware (1.31) and the fact that the Room EQ has shipped (and has a name). As people read the reviews that come out on ARC-1 and D2, there may be a surge in new owners looking for information... This thread is an incredible source of information, but more daunting every day.



Don't forget the D1 owners who have or have ordered Arc-1. The D1 thread is pretty much dead and so I come here looking for tips on the audio side, especially now that Arc has been implemented.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/13963454
> 
> 
> Richard,
> 
> Just did what Bob suggested. My ps3 had 7.1 checked but I know I set it this way initially. Changed it this morning and tested some 7.1 discs. Surround is more coherent and less jumbled. Thanks once again Bob.
> 
> John



Well just a note for future troubleshooting. Some 7.1 output must have gotten enabled on my PS3, but when I went in to check nothing was.


I think I may have blown past the Automatic option before going back for the manual ones and I guess that reset everything and turned off any 7.1 settings. So when troubleshooting your PS3 settings be sure to go into manual first to see what is there. I haven't confirmed, but hopefully this keeps your existing settings intact unless you change them and save.


This happened because with the IR2BT there is a slight (very slight) delay between a key press and the activity on the PS3 and it's easy to blow past stuff.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## jayray

Richard,

My brother just got a ps3 and I did instruct him to check the manual settings because he couldn't get any sound out of it. Haven't heard from him for a few days, he might have thrown it against the wall









John


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/13964431
> 
> 
> Richard,
> 
> My brother just got a ps3 and I did instruct him to check the manual settings because he couldn't get any sound out of it. Haven't heard from him for a few days, he might have thrown it against the wall
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Hahaa or got it working and is now ignoring his phone while he chain watches 100 HD movies.


Cheers,


Richard


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Latest review of the ARC

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/proce...nd-d2-ssp.html


----------



## RROSEN

Great review. Great for Anthem and ARC for sure.


Seems to align with the findings we are seeing here as well... You know, other than him finding out that one of his speaker drivers was down for the count hahaa. Other than that he sounds like he knows what he is doing










Cheers,


Richard


----------



## BillW

I too wanted to put the mic on the sofa cushions and found the stand too tall. I found that course thread 3/8 all thread (the solid rod with threads running it's entire length) worked as a suitable substitute. The mic holder threaded right onto it and at the base I used 2 fender washers and 2 hex nuts to clamp it to the provided base.

Afterwards I did notice the picture showed the mic stand on the floor in front of the sofa or chair, but I still think the closer you can get the mic to where your ears will be the better.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/13966231
> 
> 
> I too wanted to put the mic on the sofa cushions and found the stand too tall.



Yeah. I put the base under and between the cushions but, eventually, transferred the mic to another stand, one that came with a competitor's system.


----------



## slots1

I cannot believe this is the longest period with no posts to this thread. Two days.

I am very happy with the results of the ARC-1 on my system. I was listening with my wife to an old jazz cd with oscar peterson and every instrument stood out across the stage in front of us. And it was just stereo not 5.1. Also, voices again just appear in front of me separate from the instruments on other cd's like Fleetwood Mac.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Got a 40GB PS3 to familiarize myself with it. When the re-introduced 80GB appears on June 12 I'll get one of those and then return one or the other depending on whether the 80GB unit is as quiet as the 40GB.


Right now the 40GB is sitting out in the open and it is plenty silent for BD playback. It will be going into the cabinet later this weekend. It will be paired with an IR2BT to allow remote control from my Harmony remote.


I'm using a Blue Jeans HDMI cable to connect to the D2.


I have it sending HDMI 1080p/24 to the D2 (with Frame Lock=OFF and HDMI Repeater=NO in the D2) and 6 channel LPCM for audio. The D2 is converting the video to 1360x768p/60 output for my plasma.


The PS3 will also send 720p/60 for games, and 1080i/60 for "video rate" Blu-Ray discs. I don't intend to use it for standard DVD playback.


So far, my optimal settings in the D2 for this PS3 appear to be:


Brightness 50, Contrast 51, Color 51, Tint 48, Exponential Gamma 115


As with the Comcast box, the trick of raising Contrast by 1 and countering by raising Exponential Gamma (in this case only by 1) appears to produce imagery which has significantly less banding in tricky scenes. I found no gotchas during calibration -- either at 1080p or 720p. And the HDMI handshake appears reasonably solid, although the initial handshake to 1080p/24 takes about 6 seconds.


My first impressions are quite positive. The PS3 is silent and very responsive during Blu-Ray playback. The firmware update process works without a hitch. At the moment I'm using it with Sony's optional BD remote control, and that works fine (although it's ridiculous that this remote has no backlighting for the buttons).


I must admit, I continue to be impressed with how well my Pioneer DVD player and the D2 handle standard DVDs, both for video and audio. I can see improvement for reference quality transfers (comparing DVD and Blu-Ray) in the brief amount of Blu-Ray viewing I've done, but it is not night and day. That is, both ways look "right" when you are watching them even though I know I'm seeing more detail in the Blu-Ray version, and can actually quantify it in many scenes. In one sense this is a compliment to the video editors who handled these very high quality standard DVD transfers. Of course to get that quality of SD-DVD playback you have to be really careful with your SD-DVD setup. Whereas it comes almost automatically for Blu-Ray.


ETA: I'll do some A/B comparisons with the SD-DVD and Blu-Ray versions of some high quality releases (e.g., Ratatouille) after my setup stuff settles down a bit. Both my Pioneer and the PS3 appear to display Paused frames cleanly, so this should be straightforward to set up both for still frames and moving sequences.


There is, I think, a bigger difference on the audio side. The surround sound experience, in particular, seems much more natural. Now don't expect you are going to think the actors are there in the room with you. Instead the audio becomes more seamless and "movie like". You will, of course, from time to time be startled by sound effects that sound like they ARE in the room with you. And the dynamics will impress as well.


The bottom line is that even with a 768p display and a 5.1 speaker setup, my first impression is that Blu-Ray is enough of an improvement to be worth it.


Anyway, it is early days yet. I'll probably have some more details later. For those who are convinced I'll regret using the PS3 for Blu-Ray playback: If there are particular things you'd like me to try to help me feel buyer's remorse, now is a good time to bring them up! (grin!)


I love to hate Sony, but I'll need some help this time.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13977625
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that even with a 768p display and a 5.1 speaker setup, my first impression is that Blu-Ray is enough of an improvement to be worth it.
> 
> --Bob



Time to spend some Bob Dollars on a Bigger 1080p Display or PJ.


With only 768p - it will be hard to see the difference between

SD [up-converted with the D2] and Blu-Ray.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13977755
> 
> 
> Time to spend some Bob Dollars on a Bigger 1080p Display or PJ.
> 
> 
> With only 768p - it will be hard to see the difference between
> 
> SD [up-converted with the D2] and Blu-Ray.



Oh it's not hard to see the difference. A big factor is getting native resolution into the 768p panel, which of course I can do with the D2.


It's just that my SD DVD setup is so good right now that the imagery just "looks right" when you are viewing it. So you see past imaging details and don't miss the extra resolution while watching.


-------------------------------------


I'm not going to 1080p until I find a 1080p/120Hz panel that I like (maybe next year). And I'm not going to a projector of any kind since life is too short to have to futz with geometry issues. (grin!)

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13977837
> 
> 
> life is too short to have to futz with geometry issues. (grin!)
> 
> --Bob



I'm not sure what Century you are in but Geometry

does not exist in the 21st Century. This is the

Digital Century.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13894704
> 
> 
> I'm using the "simple" Exponential Gamma Correction in the D2, and it is working quite well in my setup. However, I believe that if I did a proper optical sensor measurement of gray and color step charts and built custom correction curves in the D2 I might get even better results. That's for some future pass at this stuff however.
> 
> 
> Just be sure you are judging Gamma related stuff based on reference quality content -- e.g., not a damaged Comcast broadcast.
> 
> 
> For those that don't know, if you are seeing banding in what should be smoothly ramping portions of a static image (e.g., night sky from brighter horizon upwards to darker zenith) this is generally NOT so much a fault of the disc/broadcast format or of your display as it is a symptom of incorrect Black and White level settings -- and in the Gamma curve that runs between them. In addition, proper Gamma correction makes for much more "natural" and "transparent" imaging. Just remember you need to iterate adjusting Gamma with adjusting Brightness and Contrast in your display as Gamma correction changes in the Anthem also alter the Black and White output levels of the Anthem as well.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


What calibration test are you using to set exponential gamma?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/13979320
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> What calibration test are you using to set exponential gamma?



Avia Pro -- the more expensive version of the Avia standard DVD calibration stuff. They have several different "squint chart" tests for basic Gamma and Gamma tracking.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13978822
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what Century you are in but Geometry
> 
> does not exist in the 21st Century. This is the
> 
> Digital Century.



What can I say? I like fixed pixel displays where I don't have to worry about keystone adjustment or whether there will ever be any variation in optical path between the three color projection elements over time.


But hey, I've got a Blu-Ray player now. 23 Skidoo!

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13979801
> 
> 
> What can I say? I like fixed pixel displays where I don't have to worry about keystone adjustment or whether there will ever be any variation in optical path between the three color projection elements over time.
> 
> 
> But hey, I've got a Blu-Ray player now. 23 Skidoo!
> 
> --Bob



All I can say is on my 13Ft Screen - I have perfect

1080p pixel placement. And my ceiling doesn't shake

enough to change the optical path
























This is one case where BIGGER is BETTER


----------



## dstorm56




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/13963103
> 
> 
> Anyone who is waiting on the ARC, get notice that they are shipping yet? I have been waiting for several weeks.
> 
> 
> Michael



I just rec'd mine about 2 weeks ago. I haven't had the time to update my processor as yet and use the ARC.......hopefully this weekend.


----------



## AnthemAVM

Lets keep this map alive.

http://www.frappr.com/anthemhometheatergear


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/13984490
> 
> 
> Lets keep this map alive.
> 
> http://www.frappr.com/anthemhometheatergear



COOL - I just ADDED ME


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/13963103
> 
> 
> Anyone who is waiting on the ARC, get notice that they are shipping yet? I have been waiting for several weeks.
> 
> 
> Michael



Good luck, I ordered my ARC on *APRIL 9th*, and yesterday my dealer says there is *still* no word from Anthem on when it will be coming! They were sure quick to charge my credit card though.







The dealer thinks Anthem is holding up shipments because of some software bugs, but I told him that there are a LOT of people on this forum with ARC working just fine. I'm going to call or email Anthem and see what is up.


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/13985525
> 
> 
> Good luck, I ordered my ARC on *APRIL 9th*, and yesterday my dealer says there is *still* no word from Anthem on when it will be coming! They were sure quick to charge my credit card though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dealer thinks Anthem is holding up shipments because of some software bugs, but I told him that there are a LOT of people on this forum with ARC working just fine. I'm going to call or email Anthem and see what is up.






I was told by Nick (Anthem) early May that they ran out of microphones. The were expecting to ship again early June.


Be patient it's worth it!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The more I use the PS3 for Blu-Ray with my D2 the more pleased I am.


The IR2BT remote converter is working just fine with my Harmony 880, although it will likely take me a while to figure out my preferred button mappings. (It's a bit annoying that the PS3 only lets you pair one BD controller at a time so I can't easily compare operation of the optional, Sony BD controller with my current mappings on the Harmony via the IR2BT.) Power ON/OFF of the PS3 via the IR2BT is working without a hitch so far.


By the way, for any other PS3 newbies, the USB wall wart power supply that IR2BT sells to power the IR2BT -- and apparently any other USB wall wart -- can not be used to recharge the game controller that comes with the PS3. Apparently the game controller is looking for some sort of intelligent handshake from the USB port before it will start charging (not merely the presence of power). So you have to use a computer USB jack, a USB hub, or the USB port found on the back of some set top boxes. Right now I'm using the USB port in my Comcast HD-DVR for that. (This is necessary because the PS3's own USB ports are not powered when the PS3 is in off/standby.)


-------------------------------------------------


I made one additional tweak to my D2 calibration: Raised the Exponential Gamma from 115 to 116. I suspect I'll be doing a bit more tweaking as I do more viewing -- and at some point I'm going to have to "do it right" with an optical sensor and creating custom Gamma curves in the Live Video Settings Editor application -- but at the moment I'm quite pleased with the calibration results based on this simpler method, so it'll take a while to overcome inertia and do that.


The extra resolution and increased color gamut of the Blu-Ray recordings is more obvious on some discs than on others. Partly this is due to transfer quality of course, but some content just shows this stuff off better. I was quite impressed with the imaging improvement in all 3 Pirates of the Caribbean movies for example. The SD-DVD versions of these are no slouches, but the Blu-Ray versions just blow them away -- even on my "mere" 768p Fujitsu plama.


-----------------------------------------


For audio, the enhanced dynamics and more enveloping feel of the surround sound experience are readily evident in the lossless Blu-Ray tracks. However the real "wow" factor for me is in musical passages. The clarity, presence, and "realness" of the instrumentation is wonderful indeed! I knew the technology was capable of this of course, but it's great to actually have it confirmed by ear. It's also great that I was able to use the ARC stuff for a few weeks before setting up the Blu-Ray so I can separate these two, significant, audio improvements.


[The down side of focussing too much on such stuff like this is that when you see real events, or hear live performers, your mind starts thinking about how the "audio" and "video" might be adjusted to improve reality.]


I've tried LPCM, TrueHD and DTS-HD MA tracks and the new firmware support in the PS3 seems to be working without a hitch. The HDMI connection at 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 appears solid and the conversion in the D2 from 1080p/24 input to 1360x768p/60 output for my display also appears flawless. I have not yet tried any 1080i Blu-Ray discs.


The next step will be to move the PS3 inside the cabinet and see if the fan cranks up. But judging from the very modest amounts of heat it is putting out when seated on top of the cabinet (at least for Blu-Ray playback), I'm not expecting any problems.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

With all the calibration tests I've been doing lately, I've gotten in the habit of periodically backing up my Video Source Adjust settings to a PC file with Live Video Settings Editor. I'm currently using the "test" version, V1.30a, of Live Video Settings Editor.


I'm doing this on a Windows 2000 laptop with a real serial port.


Last night I did one of these ("Get" from the D2 and "Save" to a file), and as is my normal practice, I poked around in the results from the Get before doing the Save, and discovered, for I think the first time, that the Get did not read one of the settings properly from the D2. Although it had picked up that Exponential Gamma Correction was selected for my PS3 input, the numeric value it picked up was 1.00 instead of 1.16.


There was no error message indicating any sort of transfer problem, and a second Get returned correct results (I checked all of them) -- which of course is the version I Saved to the PC file.


My point is, apparently there are cases where the Editor will fail to read the data correctly from the D2, but there will be no error indication.


Even when using a real serial port.


Sigh.


So I suggest when doing transfers (either way) with Live Video Settings editor, it would be wise to at least spot check the results to see if everything seems to have transferred correctly.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/13985984
> 
> 
> I was told by Nick (Anthem) early May that they ran out of microphones. The were expecting to ship again early June.
> 
> 
> Be patient it's worth it!



That's good to hear shipments may start again soon, thanks for letting me know. I'm normally a pretty patient man, but reading how well ARC works on this forum has got me pretty fired up to get it and use it. Maybe it won't be long now.


I'm getting some new subs in early July, and ARC would really help setting them up. It will be great to not have to hook up REQ and do sweeps and mess with my BFD again. REQ and BFD were way easier and faster than the individual test tone method, but I expect ARC to be way easier and faster with much better results!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13986011
> 
> 
> The more I use the PS3 for Blu-Ray with my D2 the more pleased I am.
> 
> 
> --Bob



OH BOB - I'm so disappointed that the FAN NOISE is not a PROBLEM










BTW - I know you said you might return the 40GB version for the 80GB

version. But unless you need PS2 Compatibility - you might never use

the extra 40GB. And hopefully you got the 40GB for the Special price

of $299. It is hard to beat - that is why I bought my 2nd PS3 to replace

my Pioneer Blu-Ray player in the *big theater.*


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/13986560
> 
> 
> I'm getting some new subs in early July, and ARC would really help setting them up. It will be great to not have to hook up REQ and do sweeps and mess with my BFD again. REQ and BFD were way easier and faster than the individual test tone method, but I expect ARC to be way easier and faster with much better results!



mlbrand,


Your are right, the ARC is a great tool for sub setup and adjustments. I spent quit a bit of time (and effort) this week moving my servo subwoofer in my room to select the best location. I tested 4 locations and now I think I have the best one. With ARC the bass is so tight and crisp that it makes it easier than before to adjust polarity/phase for example. Last night, while playing some music I started just for fun, to adjust polarity/phase by ear. I will do it properly tonight with a RS SPL meter and test tones to see how close I was.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/13989017
> 
> 
> OH BOB - I'm so disappointed that the FAN NOISE is not a PROBLEM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW - I know you said you might return the 40GB version for the 80GB
> 
> version. But unless you need PS2 Compatibility - you might never use
> 
> the extra 40GB. And hopefully you got the 40GB for the Special price
> 
> of $299. It is hard to beat - that is why I bought my 2nd PS3 to replace
> 
> my Pioneer Blu-Ray player in the *big theater.*



Actually what I'd be going after in the 80GB version is SACD playback.


Considering you also get the new, vibrating game controller and a bundled game as well for the extra $100, it seems a no-brainer. But only if this new 80GB version runs as quietly as the current 40GB version.


The PS2 compatibility, the flash memory card slots, and the extra 2 USB ports are of no value to me, although it certainly doesn't hurt to have them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Leave THX Re-equalization Turned Off for Blu-Ray*


I just had a brief exchange with FilmMixer, and his recommendation -- and now mine as well -- is that you leave THX Re-equalization turned off in the Anthem for Blu-Ray playback.


THX Re-equalization can be turned on/off independently of whether you are using the rest of the THX post-processing offered in the Anthems. Press the THX button once, use the up or down arrows to toggle THX on or off. Then immediately press the THX button again, and use the up or down arrows to toggle whether the Re-equalization portion of the THX post processing is turned on or off.


The re-equalization setting is separately remembered both for when the rest of THX post processing is turned on or turned off, for each source input, and for each type of input audio from that source input. If you are using only HDMI 6-channel LPCM for input audio from your Blu-Ray player (as you should be with the Anthem), that means you will need to make this setting just twice -- once for THX itself ON and once for THX itself OFF. You will need to be playing Blu-Ray content when you make the setting so that it is applied to the correct input source and audio type.


------------------------------


Apparently it is not so much that Blu-Ray tracks have already been specifically THX re-equalized for home theater use more often than standard DVD tracks. Rather it is that the mixing techniques used for Blu-Ray tracks, and the quality of the original content, are such that additional re-equalization is not needed.


At the moment, I prefer my Blu-Ray playback to be done with the rest of the THX post processing in the Anthem turned on. So it is JUST the Re-equalization portion of THX that I'm turning off. See section 4.8.6 of the Anthem manual for a description of the things THX post processing does for a 5.1 setup, and the extra things it does for a 7.1 setup.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13990023
> 
> 
> Actually what I'd be going after in the 80GB version is SACD playback.



I thought SCAD was a DIRTY WORD you were using


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A note on the IR2BT remote control converter for use with the PS3:


First of all, for Blu-Ray playback it works great. I recommend it. I'm using it with a Harmony 880 remote. There *ARE* a couple of button key mappings you need to change in the Harmony's "device" page for the IR2BT and in each "activity" page you set up using that device. These correct for some incorrect default mappings that Logitech provides for the IR2BT device in their database. The details are in the YouTube tutorial that IR2BT has put up.


[The errors are due to the way Logitech automatically populates its default button mappings based on the spelling of each button. NOTE: The IR2BT YouTube tutorial only mentions making these 2 button mapping changes for the "device" page. In fact you also need to make them for each "activity" you set up that uses the IR2BT device.]


These changes are easy to make when you add the device and its activities to your Harmony configuration. Other than these few button mapping changes, it is essentially plug & play -- unless you want to fiddle with the default button mappings to match your personal preferences.


The power on/off sequence works without a hitch.


-----------------------------------


However, that doesn't mean you can use the Harmony / IR2BT combo to replace the PS3 game controller -- even if you aren't playing a game. The one, significant issue I've found is trying to use the web browsing function of the PS3 -- which includes access to its on-line manual as well as to the PS3 store, etc.


The problem is that the IR2BT codes include the 4 direction buttons from the direction pad of the game controller, but do not include codes representing the left joystick directions. IR2BT tells me they couldn't think of a good way to include the joystick directional controls because those are actually a set of codes for each direction depending on how far you have pushed the joystick.


When browsing the internet, each press of the direction pad buttons skips the cursor to the next link or data entry field in the chosen direction on the current web page. In contrast, the left joystick moves the cursor smoothly in the chosen direction -- which is what you would more normally want to do when browsing. Depending on the number of links on whatever page you are viewing, using the direction pad button codes to skip from link to link may give you adequate ability to move around pages. For instance, viewing a typical newspaper page like the New York Times is pretty easy to do this way. But for some pages, there just aren't enough links scattered around to make that work well. Unfortunately, that's true for the Sony Playstation home page for example.


[In my "Watch Blu-Ray" activity, I also added hard button mappings for L1, L2, L3, R1, R2, R3, Select and Start, which are also used during browsing. L1/R1 are load web page back and forward -- I mapped them to Channel Down and Up on the Harmony. (There is no button mapping available for the Reload current page function -- you'll need to do that in the Option menu brought up with the Triangle button.) L2/R2 are change page view window left and right for when you've got multiple web pages open at once. I mapped them to the Down and Up arrows underneath the Harmony's direction pad. L3 switches to the view that shows all the open page windows at once. I mapped that to Guide. R3 is a current page view "zoom" toggle. I mapped that to Previous. The Start button brings up the on-screen keypad for typing in a URL, and accepts that text entry when you are ready. I mapped that the Enter button on the lower right of the Harmony. I've got the Clear button on the lower left mapped to the Square, as that is used as the backspace key during such text entry. Finally the Select button is used to bring up the Bookmarks list and to record a new Bookmark. So I mapped that to Record on the Harmony. None of these conflict with the stuff you would normally be using for Blu-Ray playback.


These are added to my standard key mappings for normal Blu-Ray playback: OK is the X button. Exit is the Circle button. (These are the 2 corrections you need to make to the default Logitech button mappings.) And Info is the Display button -- useful for bringing up playback status and bit rate info while watching a movie. Apparently the IR2BT codes for the Harmony 880 let you do a press-and-hold function for the PS button even when it is mapped to an LCD screen button instead of a hard button. IR2BT doesn't think this should work. Either Logitech has change the code they send for this, or this is something peculiar to the 880. In any event, I don't need to tie up a hard button for PS. So I've got PS up there in the LCD screen for the few times I might want to use it, which frees up the Exit button for the better use as Circle -- the standard button used on the PS3 for backing out of an operation or window.]


But there's really no way to correct for the lack of the left joystick, cursor direction controls. So if you are going to do browsing functions on many web pages, you'll want to have the regular PS3 game controller handy. And of course that's also true if you want to play a game.


But for everything else, including everything you might want to do during Blu-Ray playback, the IR2BT gives you complete control of your PS3 using your programmable IR remote control (such as the Harmony). It is definitely a winner.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13990859
> 
> 
> 
> But there's really no way to correct for the lack of the left joystick, cursor direction controls. So if you are going to do browsing functions on many web pages, you'll want to have the regular PS3 game controller handy. And of course that's also true if you want to play a game.
> 
> 
> --Bob



I am NOT sure why you think there is a PROBLEM.


Before the IR2BT came along - I used the SONY Bluetooth

remote for 2 years. The SONY remote has no Joy Stick.

I NEVER ever needed the joystick for anything that was

NOT a GAME. I accessed the Sony Store and Surfed the

web for 2 years without any joystick.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Try moving the cursor on the default Sony home page that comes up when you start the browser. You can't do it with the Sony BD remote or the IR2BT. That's because the buttons on it are not coded as links.


You need a joystick to move the cursor to a button.


--------------------------------


Open up the on-line PS3 manual and go to the page for Settings, BD settings. Try to move around on this long page. You can't because there are no links in it. The only links are the topic list on the left and the data entry field at the top of the page. And the BD remote direction buttons only move between links.


You need a joystick to move the cursor around within the text of the page, for example to change the focus of the "zoom" function.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13991769
> 
> 
> Try moving the cursor on the default Sony home page that comes up when you start the browser. You can't do it with the Sony BD remote or the IR2BT. That's because the buttons on it are not coded as links.
> 
> 
> You need a joystick to move the cursor to a button.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------
> 
> 
> Open up the on-line PS3 manual and go to the page for Settings, BD settings. Try to move around on this long page. You can't because there are no links in it. The only links are the topic list on the left and the data entry field at the top of the page. And the BD remote direction buttons only move between links.
> 
> 
> You need a joystick to move the cursor around within the text of the page, for example to change the focus of the "zoom" function.
> 
> --Bob



I'll give your examples some try. But they do seem to

be Corner Cases.


----------



## abc999

I am thrilled to tell everybody that the ARC experience is really a joy. Its the one thing that will make almost all of your Multimedia disc sound great. Yesterday, I concentrated on 2 channel music and I confidentlly say that they sounded much better than before. From the measurements gathered via ARC, I saw a 4dB hump at 500 hertz and after calculation my system is flat from 22 to 10,000 hz +/-2 dB IN ROOM RESPONSE. Now that's something to feel good about. Midrange especially vocal recordings made the biggest improvement. It is as if the voice floats in air and just sounds very musical without any electronics in between the performance and reproduction.


I have had the pleasure of listening to mega systems (upper 6 figure systems) but the combination of good acoustics and electronics PLUS the ARC makes me feel that my system can compete with TOYS from the Big Boys.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/13989162
> 
> 
> mlbrand,
> 
> 
> Your are right, the ARC is a great tool for sub setup and adjustments. I spent quit a bit of time (and effort) this week moving my servo subwoofer in my room to select the best location. I tested 4 locations and now I think I have the best one. With ARC the bass is so tight and crisp that it makes it easier than before to adjust polarity/phase for example. Last night, while playing some music I started just for fun, to adjust polarity/phase by ear. I will do it properly tonight with a RS SPL meter and test tones to see how close I was.



How do you correct the polarity/phase with the spl meter? What test tones do you use? And do you adjust the phase in the D2 menu until the spl meter reads the highest value?


Thanks


John


----------



## izzihd

Hi Bob,


I may be mis-reading your post. Are you saying the Anthem remembers whether or not you've enabled re-eq on a per input basis? In my experience, I have to turn re-eq off each time I play a DVD using TXH cinema mode.


My understanding is that THX requires manufacturers to enable all THX enhancements when THX is engaged and Anthem then gives us the opportunity to turn only re-eq off as we desire.


Can you clarify? Thanks.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13992603
> 
> 
> How do you correct the polarity/phase with the spl meter? What test tones do you use? And do you adjust the phase in the D2 menu until the spl meter reads the highest value?



Without any other tools, I think the best one can do is to use bandwidth-limited pink noise and set both polarity and phase by magnitude on the SPLM.


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13992603
> 
> 
> How do you correct the polarity/phase with the spl meter? What test tones do you use? And do you adjust the phase in the D2 menu until the spl meter reads the highest value?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



mr_fitz,


To adjust for polarity/phase you must go into the D2 menu and look for the peak sound pressure as displayed by the SPL meter. For a source I use Rives Audio Test CD2 which provides test tones ranging from 20 Hz to 20,000 Hz (31 different tracks).


First, you want to adjust polarity (coarse adjustment) by playing a tone and taking a reading with the SPL meter. Usually sub located in the front of the room will be set to normal and back room sub location will require to switch the polarity (inverted). Once this is done, you use the same process and do the fine adjustment using the phase control. Watching the SPL meter you adjust the phase from 0 to 180 degree until you reach the peak and your done.


Note: Watch out that you select the proper bass management to do the adjustment. For example, if you select the input source for the D2 as being CD and if this input is associated with the music bass management menu, going to the movie bass management won't work.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *izzihd* /forum/post/13994366
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I may be mis-reading your post. Are you saying the Anthem remembers whether or not you've enabled re-eq on a per input basis? In my experience, I have to turn re-eq off each time I play a DVD using TXH cinema mode.
> 
> 
> My understanding is that THX requires manufacturers to enable all THX enhancements when THX is engaged and Anthem then gives us the opportunity to turn only re-eq off as we desire.
> 
> 
> Can you clarify? Thanks.



It seems to remember THX Equalization = OFF for me with V1.31c. I'll have to keep an eye on this and see if it isn't always remembering the last choice made for that per device and per style of audio input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/13992603
> 
> 
> How do you correct the polarity/phase with the spl meter? What test tones do you use? And do you adjust the phase in the D2 menu until the spl meter reads the highest value?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



Calibration DVDs typically include a phase adjustment test tone which sends pink noise (lower frequency range noise) simultaneously to the sub and a main speaker -- typically the LF speaker. You can adjust phase by ear by listening for the combo of Phase and Polarity settings that produce the most sound in the higher frequency range of the pink noise (i.e., near the cross-over, which is where the cancellation occurs if phase is set wrong). The worst phase setting will make the pink noise sound more like it only has lower frequencies in it. The difference is usually fairly subtle but if you listen carefully and iterate back and forth in the phase settings you will hear it. An SPL meter will indicate proper phase as having slightly higher volume because those higher frequencies in the pink noise aren't being cancelled.


Polarity inverts the phase across the entire frequency range going to the subwoofer. Phase itself operates in a manner that is more localized to the frequencies either side of the subwoofer cross over frequency. Thus inverting Polarity and swinging Phase around 180 degrees are not really the same thing, although the difference will likely be subtle (since the cancellation you are trying to eliminate also happens near the cross over). Typically you would set Polarity to normal for a sub in the front of the room and to inverted for a sub in the back of the room (i.e., just think of which way the speaker cone of the sub is moving compared to the speaker cones of the main speakers).


That means you may want to try separately measuring for best Phase with both Polarities to see which works better. A graphic frequency measuring tool, paired with a frequencey sweep test tone that goes to both the sub and LF, will help you see the variation across the range of frequencies. However, you can't use ARC for that since it doesn't send out that type of test tone, and only listens to one speaker at a time.


Note that you must get the distances and volume levels set up properly for your speaker configuration BEFORE you attempt to adjust subwoofer Polarity and Phase. It is also wise to re-check subwoofer phase if you change the crossovers (as for example by uploading ARC results), since the phase control's operation is centered on the cross over.


You can make changes to subwoofer Polarity and Phase *WITHOUT* having to re-measure or re-upload ARC results. Again, that's because ARC does what it does by listening to only one speaker at a time. So it doesn't hear correct vs. incorrect subwoofer phasing. ARC simply assumes you will set that up correctly, and the ARC results will sound better when you do so.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Preliminary results of placing my new, 40GB, PS3 in the cabinet are promising. No fan issues at all yet for Blu-Ray playback. It is essentially quieter than my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR except that you will sometimes hear seek noise when it is moving the read arm to select a disc menu or such (this doesn't happen during movie playback).


This PS3 is set up in a wooden console cabinet which is closed in the front by a curtained glass door and completely open in the rear. There is no extra cooling installed. The PS3 has a full 4 inches to each side wall and also to the underside of the shelf above it. There are no other heat sources in that space and the wooden walls and shelves insulate that space from adjacent spaces.


I can poke my remote sensing thermometer around the back to take measurements. The side walls are heating up about 2-5 degrees above ambient and the ceiling over the PS3 about 10 degrees above ambient. So it appears that the heat is dissipating adequately out the back without the PS3 fan kicking up to higher speed.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13997761
> 
> 
> Calibration DVDs typically include a phase adjustment test tone which sends pink noise (lower frequency range noise) simultaneously to the sub and a main speaker -- typically the LF speaker. You can adjust phase by ear by listening for the combo of Phase and Polarity settings that produce the most sound in the higher frequency range of the pink noise (i.e., near the cross-over, which is where the cancellation occurs if phase is set wrong). The worst phase setting will make the pink noise sound more like it only has lower frequencies in it. The difference is usually fairly subtle but if you listen carefully and iterate back and forth in the phase settings you will hear it. An SPL meter will indicate proper phase as having slightly higher volume because those higher frequencies in the pink noise aren't being cancelled.
> 
> 
> Polarity inverts the phase across the entire frequency range going to the subwoofer. Phase itself operates in a manner that is more localized to the frequencies either side of the subwoofer cross over frequency. Thus inverting Polarity and swinging Phase around 180 degrees are not really the same thing, although the difference will likely be subtle (since the cancellation you are trying to eliminate also happens near the cross over). Typically you would set Polarity to normal for a sub in the front of the room and to inverted for a sub in the back of the room (i.e., just think of which way the speaker cone of the sub is moving compared to the speaker cones of the main speakers).
> 
> 
> That means you may want to try separately measuring for best Phase with both Polarities to see which works better. A graphic frequency measuring tool, paired with a frequencey sweep test tone that goes to both the sub and LF, will help you see the variation across the range of frequencies. However, you can't use ARC for that since it doesn't send out that type of test tone, and only listens to one speaker at a time.
> 
> 
> Note that you must get the distances and volume levels set up properly for your speaker configuration BEFORE you attempt to adjust subwoofer Polarity and Phase. It is also wise to re-check subwoofer phase if you change the crossovers (as for example by uploading ARC results), since the phase control's operation is centered on the cross over.
> 
> 
> You can make changes to subwoofer Polarity and Phase *WITHOUT* having to re-measure or re-upload ARC results. Again, that's because ARC does what it does by listening to only one speaker at a time. So it doesn't hear correct vs. incorrect subwoofer phasing. ARC simply assumes you will set that up correctly, and the ARC results will sound better when you do so.
> 
> --Bob



What if you have different crossover points as most of us experienced with ARC targets?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/13999536
> 
> 
> What if you have different crossover points as most of us experienced with ARC targets?



The Phase control in the D2 is centered around the SUBWOOFER's cross over.


In any event, you can set up Polarity and Phase before running ARC, if you like, and then double check it after uploading the ARC results. Or you can leave subwoofer Polarity and Phase testing until after you run ARC and upload its results. The ARC measurements and calculations themselves are independent of subwoofer Polarity and Phase (which means even if their current settings are wrong ARC will still do correctly all that it does), and odds are that even if ARC changes your cross overs, the same Polarity and Phase that worked best prior to ARC will still work best.

--Bob


----------



## panners

Sorry for the off topic post, but how is the Denon 3800 when hooked up to the D2. I had one on order but cancelled it to wait for the new Pioneer coming out. Now my sales guy said he has another Denon if I want it. Should I go for the Denon, or wait for the Pioneer?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/14001738
> 
> 
> Sorry for the off topic post, but how is the Denon 3800 when hooked up to the D2. I had one on order but cancelled it to wait for the new Pioneer coming out. Now my sales guy said he has another Denon if I want it. Should I go for the Denon, or wait for the Pioneer?



My TWO Cent opinion







is only select the Denon if

you need to brag at Cocktail Parties that you bought

the MOST expensive Blu-Ray Player, that is NOT AS

GOOD as a $299 PS3 - Blu-Ray player.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14002300
> 
> 
> My TWO Cent opinion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is only select the Denon if
> 
> you need to brag at Cocktail Parties that you bought
> 
> the MOST expensive Blu-Ray Player, that is NOT AS
> 
> GOOD as a $299 PS3 - Blu-Ray player.



Amen to that! I have been using the PS3 for almost 18 months now, and its still the best bang for the buck Blu-ray player period.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/14001738
> 
> 
> Sorry for the off topic post, but how is the Denon 3800 when hooked up to the D2. I had one on order but cancelled it to wait for the new Pioneer coming out. Now my sales guy said he has another Denon if I want it. Should I go for the Denon, or wait for the Pioneer?



Wait and see what the NEW Pioneer is like.


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/14003816
> 
> 
> Wait and see what the NEW Pioneer is like.



The new Pioneer is nOT shipping with DTS MA or DTS HD (decoding/LPCM). The Pioneer rep / Pioneer press release has confirmed this. The Denon _does_ do bitstream DTS MA and LPCM 7.1. I own the Denon...it is a competent piece but expensive. Video is superlative and it is whisper quiet..


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13936235
> 
> 
> I'd like to check with those of you who have connected a high quality CD player to your Anthem and the results you're getting.
> 
> 
> .....
> 
> 
> Shouldn't a high quality digital connection via an excellent transport produce superb sound via the D2 when compared to straight thru analog? I'm beginning to think the DAC's in the D2 are not all that great, unless there's somthing I'm missing in setup, but I've cycled through the setup menus many times looking for a way to improve digital source music.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/13948310
> 
> 
> When I completely change over to digital AES/EBU into the D2, I get very similar results as with Analog DSP....but now it's pure digital in...this is why I'm thinking something could be haywire with my D2's DAC's.
> 
> 
> Now I haven't tried straight RCA from the Ayre into the D2 because I don't have any quality unbalanced cables, but this at best will be Analog DSP. Perhaps I can try this with Ben, but I don't think it will make much of a difference.



I've noticed a distinct difference in music CD playback between digital over RCA and digital over HDMI from a relatively good DVD player (Arcam DV79) to a D2.


Music over HDMI is crystal clear with a wide sound stage and black background. However something sounds off - best I can describe is I'm missing some lower midrange and that the music sounds a little too "digital".


Music over RCA sounds more correct to me but is muddy-sounding as compared to music over HDMI on this player. In summary, I would say RCA sounds more natural while the HDMI is more clear and open. I find myself going back and forth....


One factor here is the Arcam DV79 came out early in HDMI's life span, and perhaps the DV79's HDMI implementation has some flaws. The RCA and HDMI cables are of good quality and from the same mfg.


----------



## panners




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/14003898
> 
> 
> The new Pioneer is nOT shipping with DTS MA or DTS HD (decoding/LPCM). The Pioneer rep / Pioneer press release has confirmed this. The Denon _does_ do bitstream DTS MA and LPCM 7.1. I own the Denon...it is a competent piece but expensive. Video is superlative and it is whisper quiet..



The Denon does DTS-MA via LPCM though. Will the Pioneer do 7.1 LPCM? Just weighing my options.


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panners* /forum/post/14009733
> 
> 
> The Denon does DTS-MA via LPCM though. Will the Pioneer do 7.1 LPCM? Just weighing my options.



Not when shipped but at some point down the road (we hope)!


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/14008260
> 
> 
> I've noticed a distinct difference in music CD playback between digital over RCA and digital over HDMI from a relatively good DVD player (Arcam DV79) to a D2.



When you say digital over RCA, I assume you mean digital coaxial into the D2 and not digital-to-analog in your Arcam out via 2-channel analog RCA to the D2. So you're essentially comparing one digital stream to another digital stream from the same source into your D2 which is then subject only to the D2's DACs.


My query was to compare analog direct into the D2 vs both analog DSP (in the D2) and direct digital (to the D2) from the same source (in my case, a CD player). The results with my Ayre C-5xe based on my preferences (i.e. my ears) confirm that analog direct is the superior choice for music. I've taken the previous advice in this thread and levelled the playing field for analog/digital comparative purposes and continuously came to the same conclusion as Tom suggested...the DAC's in my Ayre are superior to the DAC's in the D2.


My solution is therefore to purchase a high quality 2-channel preamp for music only and connect the C-5xe directly to the preamp. The preamp must also have a bypass to channel the mains from my D2 out to the premap and onto my power amps for movies. I've found the perfect solution...


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/14011505
> 
> 
> When you say digital over RCA, I assume you mean digital coaxial into the D2 and not digital-to-analog in your Arcam out via 2-channel analog RCA to the D2. So you're essentially comparing one digital stream to another digital stream from the same source into your D2 which is then subject only to the D2's DACs.
> 
> 
> My query was to compare analog direct into the D2 vs both analog DSP (in the D2) and direct digital (to the D2) from the same source (in my case, a CD player). The results with my Ayre C-5xe based on my preferences (i.e. my ears) confirm that analog direct is the superior choice for music. I've taken the previous advice in this thread and levelled the playing field for analog/digital comparative purposes and continuously came to the same conclusion as Tom suggested...the DAC's in my Ayre are superior to the DAC's in the D2.
> 
> 
> My solution is therefore to purchase a high quality 2-channel preamp for music only and connect the C-5xe directly to the preamp. The preamp must also have a bypass to channel the mains from my D2 out to the premap and onto my power amps for movies. I've found the perfect solution...



Yeah, I was comparing 2 digital streams (coax vs HDMI) from the same source - still an interesting observation IMO. Does make me wonder if 2-channel coax and HDMI digital streams (CD playback) are processed the same in the D2. Of course the differences could be on the source side. I've pondered getting an Oppo just to resolve that question....


I think I'm missing something - why are you adding the 2-ch pre-amp and not just using D2's analog direct?


----------



## rkphelps

I need some advice from you guys using the PS3. My D1 is due back tomorrow from being upgraded to a D1-HD (D2) and I plan on using the PS3 for Blu-Ray DVD's until Oppo comes out with their Blu-Ray Player. I currently have a Panasonic RP91 connected via component & Toslink that I have used for several years for SD-DVD's. My question is would I be better off removing the panasonic and using the PS3 for SD-DVD play or would the scaler in the D2 work better with the panasonic set to 480i output?


Thanks Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My recommendation is that you continue to use your Panasonic RP91 for SD-DVD playback, at least until you have a chance to compare the two players yourself.


I haven't actually had a chance yet to focus on SD-DVDs in my PS3, but there have been a number of disturbing reports in the Blu-Ray player forum here regarding poorer upscaling performance for SD-DVDs due to the last 2 PS3 firmware updates, and that the fan of the PS3 is more likely to kick into high (noisy) speed) when scaling SD-DVDs apparently due to the processor doing this extra work. You can set the PS3 to output HDMI 480p (but *NOT* 480i) for SD-DVD playback which gets around the purported upscaling issues, but still depends upon the quality of de-interlacing in the PS3. Secrets of Home Theater is very negative on the PS3 de-interlacing, although other reviewers disagree. The core SD-DVD decoding in the PS3 (everything that happens prior to de-interlacing) is, by all accounts, flawless. No CUE for example. If they just added proper HDMI 480i output that would be the way to go, but it doesn't appear to be something that will happen soon.


And my recollection is that your RP91 is a VERY good Component SD-DVD player so I'd leave it in your system until you have a chance to try things both ways and see if you can spot any PS3 gotchas.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem is testing ARC V1.2 on their password protected download page. I haven't tried it myself and I don't know if there are any gotchas in it. From the release notes, one change that really stands out to me is that the Upload of results is supposed to be more reliable BUT ONLY IF YOU ALSO UPDATE the D2 firmware to V1.31c.


It apparently also includes an improved algorithm for determining the proper target cross-over settings. And they've now provided a way to specify "full range" main speakers even in setups that include a subwoofer. [The method of specifying a 6.1 speaker configuration has also been modified.]


And there is mention again of changing the way it handles the noise gain (the volume of the sweep tones), but I think this MAY be just the change that was already implemented between ARC V1.0 and ARC V1.1.


They've apparently also added a button for clearing the ARC results out of the D2 -- replacing the prior hack of telling ARC to Upload results when you haven't opened a results file to upload yet. [NOTE: So far I can't find any good reason for why you would WANT to clear the ARC results out of the D2 -- except for the purposes of testing whether Uploads are happening correctly. Instead, if you don't want to use ARC, just turn Room EQ = OFF for any input source. I.e., leaving the results in the D2 when you are not using them does no harm.]


For some reason, they've also changed the default folder on the PC for the install, which means if you already have ARC installed you need to manually copy the 2 calibration data files to the new folder so ARC V1.2 can find them. These are the two files with names that include the serial # of your D2 and of your ARC microphone. It appears you can also move these two files into the install folder (the one you download and unzip) prior to doing the install, and the installer will then automatically put them where they need to go.


As usual with all such Test software, there could be significant problems. So for now I suggest you just treat this as a heads up that a new version is getting close -- unless of course Anthem tech support tells you to use it.


Here are the release notes:



> Quote:
> ANTHEM ROOM CORRECTION
> 
> 
> Extract contents of zip download to Desktop. The setup program will be in a Desktop folder called "arc_cd". Before clicking on setup.exe, add your two serialized files to the folder or see below for more info.
> 
> 
> Changes in v1.2 (requires v1.31 or later in D2):
> 
> 
> 1. Reduced noise gain - re-calculate then re-upload to get the benefits (no need to re-measure).
> 
> 
> 2. Improved crossover detection algorithms.
> 
> 
> 3. Increased upload reliability - speaker levels are verified during upload if D2 has v1.31c or later. All other settings are verified during the upload regardless of the version.
> 
> 
> 4. Increased detail in error messages if using v1.31c or later.
> 
> 
> 5. Added Erase function in advanced mode to clear ARC parameters in processor.
> 
> 
> 6. "Single rear" selection has been removed from targets menu. To configure a system as 6.1, select the single rear option in the 'select speakers to measure' dialog.
> 
> 
> 7. Added "Full range" speaker crossover option in advanced mode. If you select a speaker configuration that has no subwoofer then the fronts are forced to full range.
> 
> 
> 
> IF UPDATING FROM v1.0:
> 
> Significant changes were made to the measurement procedure. Re-measurement is highly recommended.
> 
> 
> 
> IMPORTANT:
> 
> 
> With v1.2 the Program Files folder is
> 
> 
> My Computer, Local disc C:\\Program Files\\Anthem\\AnthemRoomCorrection
> 
> 
> instead of
> 
> 
> My Computer, Local disc C:\\Program Files\\Anthem\\AnthemStatement\\AnthemRoomCorrection
> 
> 
> as used with prior versions. If you installed a prior version and do not have the CD at hand, be sure to move your serialized files from the old folder to the new one.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you're updating the processor from a version older than v1.29j, your video processing settings need to be backed up with Live Video Settings Editor before updating the processor.
> 
> 
> If the software installer asks you to program the serial number make sure the number on the chassis sticker, the one on the mic (first six digits on cal file), and the one you're entering match. You only get one chance!! If the wrong number is entered, the unit will have to come to the factory.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Anthem, Anthem Statement, AnthemLogic, Sonic Frontiers, and Paradigm are trademarks or registered trademarks of Paradigm Electronics Inc. Copyright Paradigm Electronics Inc. All rights reserved. The information contained herein may not be reproduced in whole or in part without our express written permission. We reserve the right to change specifications and/or features without notice as design improvements are incorporated.
> 
> 
> technical support:
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 905-362-0958 M-F 9:00 am - 5:30 pm ET



==============================


ETA: If one of you installs this, I'm curious as to whether it automatically deletes the prior folder that held the prior ARC version. It should do so, but of course if it does, and if you didn't put the 2 calibration files into the installer's folder before doing the install, you will likely have to retrieve them from your original ARC install CD.



--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson

The description is pretty similar to v1.1.6 that I installed last week which simply replaced the older version without any change in the location of the CAL files. It did look for the ARC files. Will get to the v1.2 this weekend with the new D2.


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/14012114
> 
> 
> Yeah, I was comparing 2 digital streams (coax vs HDMI) from the same source - still an interesting observation IMO. Does make me wonder if 2-channel coax and HDMI digital streams (CD playback) are processed the same in the D2. Of course the differences could be on the source side. I've pondered getting an Oppo just to resolve that question....



I agree, that's very interesting and worth investigating further. I have the Oppo 981 connected to my D2 via HDMI. I'll add a coax connection and do some comparisons.



> Quote:
> I think I'm missing something - why are you adding the 2-ch pre-amp and not just using D2's analog direct?



Good question...I'm just very critical when it comes to 2-channel music. The D2 is an awesome prepro for movies, I couldn't be happier with its performance, but since I started investigating why analog direct sounds better to my ears, with my equipment, than either analog DSP or direct digital, I added a 2-ch preamp into the mix. Mind you, a very high quality preamp. Analog direct on the D2 already sounds fantastic, but music was taken to a new level in my system with a dedicated 2-ch preamp (an Ayre KX-R).


So my choice of adding the 2-ch preamp is strictly to elevate the quality of my system for music listening, certainly not because of any weakness in the D2.


Peter


----------



## DEHAAS

I just noticed firmware version 1.32 for the D2 and AVM-50 is available on the support site. However, there is not an updated changelog, so I do not really know what they have been working on for this beta-release. Does anybody know which issues this firmware addresses?


----------



## yacht422

good morning. new member. very impressed with the knowledge shared in this v-e-r-y long thread.

equipment: D2,V1.2 and blu ray S500, V3.5

question is: i am getting pops ( like the old vinyl records) from DVD and/ or BR. Am i alone? These pops(clicks) occur the entire movie. Random, not alot of them, but annoying non-the-less.

Also, responding to old posts, I too, am experiencing the blue screen problem, both br and DVD. There is no rhyme or reason as to when the event occurs.

The system is connected to a monster conditioner, so i doubt that it's a grounding issue.

Any thoughts?

thx

walt


----------



## funlvr1965

No youre not alone, this was an issue that some of us have experienced at some point, youre just late to the party







. Usually as in my case updating to the latest firmware resolves the issue if the issue resides within the D2. Dont be shy about calling Anthem and letting them know, they need the feedback.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14018264
> 
> 
> good morning. new member. very impressed with the knowledge shared in this v-e-r-y long thread.
> 
> equipment: D2,V1.2 and blu ray S500, V3.5
> 
> question is: i am getting pops ( like the old vinyl records) from DVD and/ or BR. Am i alone? These pops(clicks) occur the entire movie. Random, not alot of them, but annoying non-the-less.
> 
> Also, responding to old posts, I too, am experiencing the blue screen problem, both br and DVD. There is no rhyme or reason as to when the event occurs.
> 
> The system is connected to a monster conditioner, so i doubt that it's a grounding issue.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



As FUNLVR1965 mentioned, the popping problem is likely a problem that will be fixed by upgrading to the latest D2 software release. There's a fix specific to that problem in this software. You can get the V1.31 D2 software (the latest official release) here:

http://www.sonicfrontiers.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


If upgrading to V1.31 does NOT fix the popping problem, contact Anthem tech support. This is definitely something they should be able to help you with. Be sure to read and follow the install instructions carefully as the upgrade from V1.2 to V1.31 involves some special procedures to help preserve your D2 settings.


And keep an eye out for additional updates, as it looks like Anthem is getting close to releasing V1.32 D2 software and V1.2.1 ARC software, both of which will likely have important improvements. For example, it has been rumored that the V1.32 software will include a revamped HDMI driver which may help eliminate or reduce your blue screens.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DEHAAS* /forum/post/14018186
> 
> 
> I just noticed firmware version 1.32 for the D2 and AVM-50 is available on the support site. However, there is not an updated changelog, so I do not really know what they have been working on for this beta-release. Does anybody know which issues this firmware addresses?



I don't know for sure, but Nick at Anthem has stated that there is a revamped HDMI driver coming that should be in this release. Presumably this also includes the fixes previously released in V1.31c for more reliable On Screen Display and support for ARC V1.2 (including more reliable Uploads). The change notes will likely be up soon.

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc

Sorry to ask a question that has been covered before, but I can't quickly find it with a search or the top sticky:


What's the vertical resolution to use when custom input cropping the Anthem to show a 2.35 image full height for CIH and eliminate the letterboxing?


----------



## ensmarcum

I have just installed my 1.31c with my new arc and i am using 1.21 the test version. I have a few notiable problems, I cant get the OSD to work anymore, do anyone know anything about getting it to come up? I just get a blue screen.


Another thing with arc. 1.21 is working ok it seems like. But, I have a huge drop off from about the 5k range on most of my speakers. Like a 10db at least more like 20. Does anyone know how that could be possible? I have all klipsch reference speakers if that helps. I have a 16 by 12 room, two openings one on side and one on front wall going into kitchen. I have dipoles on the side walls and direct for the rear two. Any thoughts would be great. Could this be caused just because of the acoustics? If so, how do you fix this kind of problem? Thanks


Robert


----------



## rkphelps

Well I received my upgrated D1-HD (D2) back from Anthem today and I have a problem with the OSD not displaying thru my projector (Sony VPL-VW40). I am getting a total black screen when holding the setup button for 3 seconds. I've tried this with my ps3 via HDMI, my Sat Reciever via Hdmi, and my dvd player via component with no luck. The D1-Hd came back with firmware 1.31 and I did some research on this site and tried some changes using the D1-Hd front panel such as changing the background color with no luck. Does anyone have any suggestions? This has been very frustrating because I had no problems before my upgrade, you know the old "if it ain't broke don't touch it". For $2000.00 I would have thought that Anthem would have checked this before returning it to me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/14020723
> 
> 
> I have just installed my 1.31c with my new arc and i am using 1.21 the test version. I have a few notiable problems, I cant get the OSD to work anymore, do anyone know anything about getting it to come up? I just get a blue screen.
> 
> 
> Another thing with arc. 1.21 is working ok it seems like. But, I have a huge drop off from about the 5k range on most of my speakers. Like a 10db at least more like 20. Does anyone know how that could be possible? I have all klipsch reference speakers if that helps. I have a 16 by 12 room, two openings one on side and one on front wall going into kitchen. I have dipoles on the side walls and direct for the rear two. Any thoughts would be great. Could this be caused just because of the acoustics? If so, how do you fix this kind of problem? Thanks
> 
> 
> Robert



Which on screen display is giving you problems? The Setup menu or also the Video Source Adjust menu and the displays that come up when you do things like change volume?


If it is the Setup menu, and if you have any S-video source device attached, see if you can get video from that S-video source device through the Anthem scaler to your display. The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source so it uses the same video path that an S-video source device would use.


Using the Front panel display, check the Setup / Displays & Timeout menu and see if it matches the defaults as shown in Section 3.12 of the manual (download the manual from the Anthem site if you haven't done so already).


If checking this shows no obvious things to correct then you will likely need to call Anthem tech support. Some folks have found that re-installing the V1.31x software on top of itself can fix OSD issues for the Setup menu, however that was supposed to have been a problem only in the ORIGINAL V1.31 software (the version that's still on the Anthem public download page), and fixed in the V1.31c test version software on their password protected download page.


So if you are really using V1.31c, you should already have that fix.


Given that the loss of OSD was a direct result of upgrading to the new software, it is unlikely you have a hardware issue.


------------------------------------------


If you post your ARC charts here, folks might have some suggestions on your speaker situation. Run ARC in advanced mode, screen capture the ARC charts to image files, open a free image file hosting account at, say photobucket. com. Upload the image files there, and include the "IMG" strings in a post here. Preview your Post to see that it is working before you Submit. There are other ARC charts posted this way back around the beginning of April when ARC came out. "Quote" any of them to see what the text looks like with the "IMG" strings in that produce the pictures when people view the post.


You can compare your ARC charts against some of those other charts to see what others are seeing. Note that dipole surround speakers would normally have a dropoff in the higher frequencies since they are not supposed to be directional (i.e., they work by bouncing the sound off the walls of the room). Also make sure you are following the mic placement procedure described in the ARC instructions -- mic pointing straight up, mic set at seated ear height, and mic positions separated from each other by at least 12 inches.

--Bob


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14021487
> 
> 
> 
> You can compare your ARC charts against some of those other charts to see what others are seeing. Note that dipole surround speakers would normally have a dropoff in the higher frequencies since they are not supposed to be directional (i.e., they work by bouncing the sound off the walls of the room). Also make sure you are following the mic placement procedure described in the ARC instructions -- mic pointing straight up, mic set at seated ear height, and mic positions separated from each other by at least 12 inches.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I found that there is a little more information pertaining to the ARC in the D2 Manual (Software version 1.3x). In particular it says on page 48 the following;


"Mic position 2 and 3 should be symmetric to the left and the right of the center line, and the same applies for the remaining position. If your room has less than 5 seating positions, measurements must be taken from 5 positions at least 2 feet apart to ensure optimal sound"


I did not try this yet, but I will as soon as I have time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

seismo,

Good heads up! The D2 V1.3x Operating Manual has been updated on Anthem's public download page as of yesterday:

http://www.sonicfrontiers.com/HTML/P...ual/D2_OM.html 


It is 6 pages longer than the prior version. Four of them are a new, Section 3.15 on the ARC-1 system. I haven't finished looking through it yet.


ETA: The new manual section on ARC mentions ARC 1.2 at the end, so that's more evidence that ARC 1.2 is about to be released publicly. And presumably that means at least D2 firmware version V1.31c will be released as well since ARC 1.2 uses some changes in it for more reliable Uploads. [More likely it will be called V1.32 when released publicly.]

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

Ok, thanks Bob, I have tried those things and nothing, same result. So, I will contact Nick. On another note, I am thinking about getting new rear speakers. I have direct speakers now and I was wondering if dipole would be better? Thanks.


Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dipole speakers are generally preferred for movie surrounds because they are less "directional" -- less likely to be picked up as the surround sound source, particularly if you are seated close to any given surround speaker. Direct speakers are generally preferred for music surrounds, but also work just fine for movie surrounds except if you are seated too close to one.


Personally I use direct surround speakers, but I haven't spent a lot of time comparing dipoles.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/14018482
> 
> 
> No youre not alone, this was an issue that some of us have experienced at some point, youre just late to the party
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Usually as in my case updating to the latest firmware resolves the issue if the issue resides within the D2. Dont be shy about calling Anthem and letting them know, they need the feedback.



Yeah, I had the ticks but they got worse with the new firmware and now the old D2 is unusable.


----------



## The Bogg

I hate to jinx myself but I've had very few problems with my upgraded Anthem (D1 to D1-HD). I just thought I'd post that since most of the posts refer to "issues" people are having (which is of course understandable - people tend not to post just to say they are happy). I'm a lurker here but have read all of the thread. If there are others lurking and thinking about jumping on board...go for it. It's a great unit when it's working properly. The support and info on this thread are top-notch!


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/13467942
> 
> 
> Well you need to be comfortable with your purchase in any case. If your not then it's a big chunck of change to be uncertain about. I follow a strict no regrets policy. This is part of the reason I have a D2. Because I was very confident that I wouldn't be in a position to wich I had spent X to get Y instead.
> 
> 
> Here is another take on the 5.1 vs. 7.1 discussion. As others have stated here, commercial cinemas are not currently configured for 7.1. SO do you think the producers / original sound mixing engineers will be mixing / recording for 5.1 or 7.1 for the foreseeable future?
> 
> 
> My feeling is that everything, for a long time yet will still be filmed, mic'd and recorder based on a commercial cinema experience. Any remixing for 7.1 will most likely come from the 5.1 source in any case. So with that in mind, as I mentioned in my previous post, if their discreet 7.1 comes from 5.1 whats to say that the D2s 7.1 output from the sources 5.1 won't at the pessimistic end of the spectrum least be in the ballpark of quality and almost indistinguishable at the positive end.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Richard



Hello,


I understand and it makes sense to me.

But what happens when you play a BD's True-HD or DTS MA track that carries a 7.1 signal (even if it is not an original 7.1 discrete channel signal)?

What does the player do when connected to the D2 through HDMI and converting to LPCM?

What should I expect from this scenario?


----------



## cargen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14024261
> 
> 
> I hate to jinx myself but I've had very few problems with my upgraded Anthem (D1 to D1-HD). I just thought I'd post that since most of the posts refer to "issues" people are having (which is of course understandable - people tend not to post just to say they are happy). I'm a lurker here but have read all of the thread. If there are others lurking and thinking about jumping on board...go for it. It's a great unit when it's working properly. The support and info on this thread are top-notch!




Ditto that!


I purchased my D1 in 2004 and upgraded it to D1-HD=D2 in Feb 2007. No issues. I rarely post, but read and learn from this thread every day.


Chris


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14025581
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I understand and it makes sense to me.
> 
> But what happens when you play a BD's True-HD or DTS MA track that carries a 7.1 signal (even if it is not an original 7.1 discrete channel signal)?
> 
> What does the player do when connected to the D2 through HDMI and converting to LPCM?
> 
> What should I expect from this scenario?



The player should be configured to send no higher than 5.1 HDMI PCM to the D2. Typically this happens automatically via the HDMI handshake.


When the player is told to decode a 7.1 track, it merges the rear channels into the side channels as part of the decoding process to make 5.1 output. The 7.1 tracks are designed with this in mind since studios know that 7.1 tracks need to sound good on the 5.1 speaker setups that make up the vast majority of surround setups in homes. This is a standard function of the TrueHD and DTS-HD MA decoding process.


The D2 receives a 5.1 HDMI PCM track with the rear channels merged into the side channels. If you play that straight (i.e., no surround mode turned on), then the rear speakers of a 7.1 speaker setup are silent. However, all the surround info (both sides and rears) is present in the side speakers.


But if you turn on a surround mode such as PLIIx which can raise 5.1 input to 6.1 or 7.1 output, then the D2 does math to extract the rear channel info from the side channels and to send that along to the rear speaker(s). In most cases this will work quite well -- largely because the rear surround content, even in 7.1 tracks, is not all that aggressive since surround sound is supposed to be only localized to a general area anyway (which explains why dipole surround speakers can work well even though they diffuse the surround sound over a larger area by firing to the sides and bouncing the sound off the walls).


FILMMIXER (who makes such tracks professionally) has posted on all this several times in this thread. The bottom line being that movie tracks where you can hear a significant difference between (1) passing discrete 7.1 info and (2) passing rear info merged into the side channels and then extracting that for 7.1 speakers by, say PLIIx should be rare or even novelties.

--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Anyone know what 1.32 does yet??


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14021487
> 
> 
> ...... Run ARC in advanced mode, screen capture the ARC charts to image files, ........



Bob,

Short of taking a photo of the screen which I tried with very poor results, how does one "capture" the charts to image files. Thanks.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14028249
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Short of taking a photo of the screen which I tried with very poor results, how does one "capture" the charts to image files. Thanks.
> 
> 
> Ben



There are 2, standard Windows key combo commands: One for capturing the entire screen and one for capturing the currently active window (which is the one you want). I don't recall off-hand what they are but you should be able to find them in the Windows help function or by searching in this thread for the posts back in April when people were first doing this (try searching for "capture"). The result is an image file on your desktop.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14028302
> 
> 
> There are 2, standard Windows key combo commands: One for capturing the entire screen and one for capturing the currently active window (which is the one you want). I don't recall off-hand what they are but you should be able to find them in the Windows help function or by searching in this thread for the posts back in April when people were first doing this (try searching for "capture"). The result is an image file on your desktop.
> 
> --Bob



Many thanks, Bob. Yea I found it (PrnScrn). With the aid of Irfanview, here is the result.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just installed the D2 V1.32 software at the request of Nick from Anthem. The install completed without issues using my older Windows 2000 laptop with a real serial port.


[NOTE: For folks upgrading from V1.2x software or older, be sure you use the Live Video Settings Editor in the V1.32 install kit (V1.30a) to save your Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file. Also, be sure to do a Setup / Save User Settings. The install requires you to Reload Factory Defaults prior to the install. After the install, you can Load User Settings to get your Setup menu settings back, but if you are upgrading from V1.2x or older the Video Source Adjust menu settings will not survive the upgrade. Thus you will need to reload them from the PC file -- again using Live Video Settings Editor. After you complete that reload from the PC file (again when upgrading from the older software), you need to power on the D2, wait 30 seconds and power it off. I suspect this is to give the D2 a chance to properly re-configure those migrated settings. When you know the settings are restored properly, it would also be wise to do a new Save User Settings (and/or Save Installer Settings) to stash the Video Source Adjust settings in those memories properly along with the Setup menu stuff that's already in there.


If you are upgrading from V1.31 or later, ALL your settings should survive in the D2's memories -- i.e. via Save User Settings, Reload Factory Defaults, and then Load User Settings after the install.


Also, just a reminder that it is critically important that there are no powered HDMI or DVI connections while you do the install. Many HDMI/DVI devices actually still have power on their HDMI/DVI sockets even when the device appears "off". Since HDMI connectors are delicate, and thus you don't want to plug/unplug them any more than you have to, my recommendation instead is that you remove wall power from everything else in your system except for the D2 and the install computer prior to doing the install. Failure to do this can cause the install to fail at the point where it is trying to program and verify the video processor.]


------------------------------------


I don't have release notes for V1.32 yet. Nick asked me to try it to see if it fixed my problem with interference lines and vertical jerkiness of the Setup menu and from S-video sources. It didn't. Sigh....


Nick mentioned only one known problem: Doing a Reload Factory Defaults does not actually reset the Mode Presets (Setup Menu 7) for the various sources.


It was my understanding that this version would have HDMI changes as well. From early testing, it *APPEARS* that my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR is locking in faster when I switch between 480i and 1080i. There are still static-like flashes (rather than muted video or a green screen that was more common in V1.11), but they seem to resolve faster. This may turn out to be wishful thinking.


There does NOT appear to be any change in the nasty video calibration issue I'm facing with my Comcast SD and HDTV. I'm not surprised, as I'm pretty much convinced at this point that it is due to Comcast doing some heavy handed re-compression of the video channels to try and scrounge some additional channel capacity.


I haven't spotted any new issues yet.


---------------------------------------------------


Nick suggests that if you also get ARC V1.2.1, then you should to a re-calculate and re-upload. No need to remeasure. He says they made some changes which make the bass results come out better in rooms that have unusually strong bass response. For many ARC users with more normal rooms that means there will actually be NO CHANGE when doing this.


And of course the ARC upload process is supposed to do a better job of verifying that the results actually transfer correctly over to the D2. That means you may get error messages when trying to do the Upload, but if the Upload completes without error then you can feel more confident that the results actually got there correctly.


I'll probably try ARC V1.2.1 over the weekend. I intend to do a re-measurement to see if anything changes, and in particular whether it comes up with different cross over targets. I'll also try following the new recommendations of setting up positions 2 and 3 on either side of mic position 1, and then the same with 4 and 5, and keeping them all at least 24 inches apart. In the past I did 2 and 3 to the left of 1 and 4 and 5 to the right of 1.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OK, I've already spotted one problem in the D2 V1.32 software:


The Setup / Source Setup menu for EVERY source has an unexpected "Same As" item at the end of the menu, and the "HDMI Repeater" item is missing.


For overlayed inputs (e.g., TV2) that means there is a "Same As" item at the top of the menu and *ALSO* at the bottom of the menu (and no "HDMI Repeater" item).


This has been reported to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Installing ARC V1.2.1*


Anthem now installs ARC in a different folder than before, as explained in the installation notes (I don't know why).


BEFORE running Setup.exe to install the new ARC software, navigate to the old folder in Program Files and drag a copy of the two license/calibration files into the install folder on your desktop (or wherever) -- i.e., the same folder that contains the Setup.exe installer program itself. Then, when you run Setup.exe, the installer will place the license/calibration files into the proper (new) folder in Program Files for you.


These two files are the files that include the serial # of your D2 in their file names.


The installer will NOT delete the old folder in Program Files. However, it DOES delete the contents of that folder EXCEPT FOR the 2 license/calibration files (while also presumably de-installing the old ARC program from the Windows Registry, etc.). This means if you forget to copy the calibration files BEFORE you install the new ARC, they should still be in the old folder for you to find and move over to the new folder. Which means you don't have to resort to your original ARC install CD to get them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*ARC V1.2.1 Targets "Auto Detect"*


The Targets window in the Advanced mode of ARC includes an Auto Detect button which apparently causes ARC to analyze the measurements and reset the Targets to the values Anthem thinks are best (as opposed to whatever manual changes you might have made).


Since Nick suggested I do a re-calculation and re-upload of my ARC 1.1 measurements using ARC 1.2.1, I decided to see what Auto Detect might do with those old measurements.


And it did indeed change one thing: The Targets that were contained in the ARC 1.1 results file showed a subwoofer crossover (for both Movie and Music) of 100Hz. When I did Auto Detect in ARC V1.2.1 it changed that to 120Hz. Now my Velodyne subwoofer is certainly capable of going up there but I was a bit surprised to see the change. The cross over for my main speakers remained at 80 Hz for example, so there is now quite a significant overlap -- half an octave.


I then did the re-calculation using that adjusted Target, and the resulting "calculated" curves appear virtually unchanged from what ARC 1.1 produced.


But of course those are just charts. I'll have to do some listening tests now and see what I hear.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*WARNING: ARC V1.2.1 Upload can send loud "pops" to subwoofer!*


I apologize for the multiple posts, but I need to get this one out right away.


I just did my first Upload using ARC V1.2.1 and it produced 3 LOUD pops in my subwoofer during the "upload room correction parameters" portion of the process. The 3 pops all happened within a roughly 5 second span. The front panel was showing the D2 powered on, with the FM tuner selected, and with the volume at -91.5dB. The Upload itself completed without any errors. I used the same Windows 2000 computer with a real serial port that I've been using for ARC V1.1 Uploads.


I've reported this to Anthem.


Until we get a handle on this, you might want to disconnect or power off your subwoofer during ARC V1.2.1 Uploads.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

Thanks for the rapid-fire updates Bob. Much appreciated.

I think I'll wait for ARC V1.2.2.


BTW, I know this is a nit and there are bigger issues but it would nice if the ARC graphs listed the Left Front, Center and Right Front speakers in sequence rather than the current Left Front, Right Front , Left Surround, Right Surround, Left Rear, Right Rear, Center and Subwoofer.

Again I know it's a nit but it doesn't follow the measuring sequence and would be a rather simple change to make.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well all I can say is "WOW!" My audio with ARC V1.2.1 is EVEN BETTER than what I had with ARC 1.1. And that's just with a re-calculation and re-upload of the ARC 1.1 measurements. I'm even more eager now to see if a re-measurement improves things further!


I just finished a re-viewing of Blu-Ray POTC "Curse of the Black Pearl". I heard no audible problems. The seamlessness of the surround environment was even better, and the music over the closing credits was just spectacular!


I'm particularly sensitive to percussion instruments. For example, there's a "tubbiness" to real kettle drums that's hard for any single or multi-speaker audio system to get right -- i.e., even just the transition between main speakers and a subwoofer. You've got the impact of the initial strike and then the subtle, musical ringing of the kettle overlayed by the wobble of the drum skin and the scrape of the drum stick. It covers a range of frequencies, but is particularly sensitive to the low midrange and true bass. It's now "right"!


As for surround itself, there were several instances where surround effects such as knocks on a door not only sounded completely natural, but were also accurately located between speakers just as the audio editor undoubtedly intended. Yum!


As with improvements in video, one thing that's always struck me about improvements in audio is that they makes goofs or sloppiness in the original recording stand out. I.e., elements of poor content become more noticeable if only in contrast to the good content surrounding them. In this movie, there are a few instances where less than perfect mic-ing of the actors can be heard -- again, simply in contrast to the otherwise perfect audio before and after. I'm recognizing those now too.


It's always difficult to judge how much such observations are colored by listener expectations and wishful thinking. And so I don't usually gush about things like this. But right now I'm a really happy audio camper.


What I don't know is how much of what I'm hearing now is due to improved algorithms in ARC V1.2.1 vs. how much is due to ARC V1.1 not having properly uploaded the complete set of its results correctly. Whatever. ARC V1.2.1 (paired with D2 V1.32) is a winner!

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

I have also just updated to 1.32 and I am using arc 1.21. I havent turned on the system yet, but I wanted to say that I agree with Bob on turning off your subs before you upload the arc setting. I just woke up the whole house, dogs barking and the whole nine yards. So, listen to him, he knows what he is talking about. It really scared the S H I T out of me when that happened, I thought someone had fallen down up stairs. Anyway, I will let you all know what results I get too.


Droopy


----------



## cpcat

I have a 5 channel amp with only 3 channels used. All I need are 2 rear speakers. I'll be using M&K tripoles as the surrounds and am planning on getting a pair of monopoles for the rears. Any last minute advice?


Anybody out there think it's not worth it?


----------



## slots1

Bob

I downloaded the latest versions of d2 1.32. But, I do not see where you get the ARC-1 1.2.1 version. Does Nick have to send it to you?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/14033098
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> I downloaded the latest versions of d2 1.32. But, I do not see where you get the ARC-1 1.2.1 version. Does Nick have to send it to you?



On their password protected download page, the D2 V1.32 software is found in the "Link 1" folder -- named "Latest Software". The ARC V1.2.1 software is found in the "Link 7" folder -- named "Test".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/14032917
> 
> 
> I have a 5 channel amp with only 3 channels used. All I need are 2 rear speakers. I'll be using M&K tripoles as the surrounds and am planning on getting a pair of monopoles for the rears. Any last minute advice?
> 
> 
> Anybody out there think it's not worth it?



If you have the physical space to set up rear speakers conveniently, and in particular if your main listening position is not right up against the rear wall, then I think adding the rear speakers is definitely worth the effort.


The only cases I can think of where folks regretted adding rears were cases where they ended up sitting too close to the rears (e.g., right underneath them), or where the nature of the listening space required floor standing rears and putting speakers there screwed up the ability to move around that part of the room, or where the addition of rear speakers made the rear of the listening room too ugly.


As long as you are thinking about adding additional speakers, also consider adding a second subwoofer. Having more than one subwoofer is one of the easiest ways to tame room effects as the two subwoofer locations couple differently to the geometry of the room

--Bob


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14033307
> 
> 
> If you have the physical space to set up rear speakers conveniently, and in particular if your main listening position is not right up against the rear wall, then I think adding the rear speakers is definitely worth the effort.
> 
> 
> The only cases I can think of where folks regretted adding rears were cases where they ended up sitting too close to the rears (e.g., right underneath them), or where the nature of the listening space required floor standing rears and putting speakers there screwed up the ability to move around that part of the room, or where the addition of rear speakers made the rear of the listening room too ugly.
> 
> 
> As long as you are thinking about adding additional speakers, also consider adding a second subwoofer. Having more than one subwoofer is one of the easiest ways to tame room effects as the two subwoofer locations couple differently to the geometry of the room
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. Re: subs. Already there. I use dual Vandy 2wq's passively crossed to the mains.










I picked up the rears (Klipsch RB 15's) for a decent price. They will be around 7 ft behind me, about a foot above ear level and spaced around 40 inches apart.


My M&K tripole surrounds will be basically 90 degrees to the side walls and about right at ear level.


Any more comments/advice would be welcome. Question: With "tripoles" (meaning dipole + direct monopole) how would you set them up in the speaker menu, direct or dipole? The direct driver faces into the room and the dipoles fire rear and forward along the side walls.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/14033373
> 
> 
> Question: With "tripoles" (meaning dipole + direct monopole) how would you set them up in the speaker menu, direct or dipole? The direct driver faces into the room and the dipoles fire rear and forward along the side walls.



I would guess "dipole" would be the best setup, although I'm not really sure how a "tripole" is expected to work. The difference is simply that "dipole" speakers don't have the time delay applied to them that's calculated from the speaker distance menu. That's because dipoles spread the sound by bouncing it off the walls -- which essentially makes the distance setting meaningless.


ETA: You might also want to consider a bit wider spacing for the rears as that will improve their use for music surround.

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc

Does anyone have Discrete On, Discrete Off, and Power Commands for the D2 in Pronto Format that they can post? I'm programming one for a friend, and there are issues learning them directly. The one posted on Anthem's website doesn't seem functional.


When I get a full PCF programmed, I'll post it to Remote Central and send it to Nick, hopefully to post on the website, but I need those commands for now.


Thanks.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14033414
> 
> 
> I would guess "dipole" would be the best setup, although I'm not really sure how a "tripole" is expected to work. The difference is simply that "dipole" speakers don't have the time delay applied to them that's calculated from the speaker distance menu. That's because dipoles spread the sound by bouncing it off the walls -- which essentially makes the distance setting meaningless.
> 
> 
> ETA: You might also want to consider a bit wider spacing for the rears as that will improve their use for music surround.
> 
> --Bob



They're supposed to work both for precise localization of effects as well as "ambient" spacial effects. I bet I won't be able to tell the difference b/w the settings but I'll just experiment.


Re: rear speaker spacing. In the AVM50 manual sec 4.8.6 under THX ASA (Advanced Speaker Array) it recommends placing the rear speakers close together to produce the "largest sweet spot". Going by the Listener Position menu in sec 3.3 this would suggest less than 4ft apart.


Am I interpreting this incorrectly?


Per the Dolby site, the rear speakers should be at between 150 and 135 degrees (assuming 180 is directly behind you). Mine would be around 160 at the present location which is slightly narrower spacing than it seems Dolby recommends.


I would need to pick up some stands to spread them out further (not a big deal) but that would also lower them to about ear level.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/14033567
> 
> 
> Does anyone have Discrete On, Discrete Off, and Power Commands for the D2 in Pronto Format that they can post? I'm programming one for a friend, and there are issues learning them directly. The one posted on Anthem's website doesn't seem functional.
> 
> 
> When I get a full PCF programmed, I'll post it to Remote Central and send it to Nick, hopefully to post on the website, but I need those commands for now.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



It has been awhile since I played with these codes.


I use a Crestron System. I converted the Pronto codes to Crestron

Two Years ago and they worked fine. Unfortunately my Crestron

software does not let me convert them back into Pronto codes,

or I would do that for you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/14033635
> 
> 
> They're supposed to work both for precise localization of effects as well as "ambient" spacial effects. I bet I won't be able to tell the difference b/w the settings but I'll just experiment.
> 
> 
> Re: rear speaker spacing. In the AVM50 manual sec 4.8.6 under THX ASA (Advanced Speaker Array) it recommends placing the rear speakers close together to produce the "largest sweet spot". Going by the Listener Position menu in sec 3.3 this would suggest less than 4ft apart.
> 
> 
> Am I interpreting this incorrectly?
> 
> 
> Per the Dolby site, the rear speakers should be at between 150 and 135 degrees (assuming 180 is directly behind you). Mine would be around 160 at the present location which is slightly narrower spacing than it seems Dolby recommends.
> 
> 
> I would need to pick up some stands to spread them out further (not a big deal) but that would also lower them to about ear level.



The problem is that closer together works better for movies and further apart works better for music. So you pick which one you want to optimize for or set up a compromise position in between.


I suspect that the audible difference will be less significant than the mounting convenience of your current setup plans.

--Bob


----------



## sbwright

Quote:

Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* 
Does anyone have Discrete On, Discrete Off, and Power Commands for the D2 in Pronto Format that they can post? I'm programming one for a friend, and there are issues learning them directly. The one posted on Anthem's website doesn't seem functional.


When I get a full PCF programmed, I'll post it to Remote Central and send it to Nick, hopefully to post on the website, but I need those commands for now.


Thanks.
Here are my Pronto D2 zone 1 codes, I have the others they just aren't as available yet. Change .zip to .xcf

 

D2Zone1IR.zip 130.744140625k . file


----------



## sbwright

Now beginning to feel some apprehension about my upgrade to the D2 (ver 1.31) from the AVM50. The AVM50 worked flawlessly, and initially the D2 also worked flawlessly. The only change made was to swap out the 2 pieces of equipment.


New experiences with the D2:

** On 2 occasions starting the system the display had no video, the screen rapidly flashed green and magenta and on at least one of the occasions there were horizontal lines emanating from the right side of the display extending out approx 1/4 of the screen. This required several restarts of the D2 to display video properly.


** On many occasions (almost all) there is what I can best describe as a blinking issue where the video goes to black and immediately comes back. This is at random rates sometimes very quickly other times several minutes between and stops completely over time.


** Thinking I may have some HDMI cable or HDCP issues I switched the source and output to the component cables; at this time I discover that the video is ghosted this includes the D2 OSD.


Re-checked the new manual, don't believe I have missed anything.


Any ideas from others?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/14033567
> 
> 
> Does anyone have Discrete On, Discrete Off, and Power Commands for the D2 in Pronto Format that they can post? I'm programming one for a friend, and there are issues learning them directly. The one posted on Anthem's website doesn't seem functional.
> 
> 
> When I get a full PCF programmed, I'll post it to Remote Central and send it to Nick, hopefully to post on the website, but I need those commands for now.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



HOW about these CODES


Anthem D2 Pronto OFF:


0000 006C 0066 0000 012E 009A 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046



Anthem D2 Pronto ON:


0000 006C 0066 0000 012E 009A 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03E0


----------



## mr_fitz

What are the improvements with V1.32 over V1.31?


What improvements are there with ARC 1.2.1 vs 1.1?


I don't need to remeasure is that correct? Do I open the AnthemRoomCorrection Application and go to advanced and open my old settings? Then click targets, then auto detect and then calculate? Am I done other than uploading them?


John


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14024038
> 
> 
> Dipole speakers are generally preferred for movie surrounds because they are less "directional" -- less likely to be picked up as the surround sound source, particularly if you are seated close to any given surround speaker. Direct speakers are generally preferred for music surrounds, but also work just fine for movie surrounds except if you are seated too close to one.
> 
> 
> Personally I use direct surround speakers, but I haven't spent a lot of time comparing dipoles.
> 
> --Bob



This has got me thinking how ARC works with dipoles. I have a pair of B&W DS8S speakers set as dipoles for my system and the sound from those speakers is very diffuse, lots of reflections with a direct null close to the listener position as it should be. I have an ARC system on order (has been for 5 weeks now) and was wondering how it will handle these reflections from the dipoles. Does anyone have a dipole set up for their surround speakers and has used ARC? Does it manage to handle the reflective nature of the sound?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14033906
> 
> 
> What are the improvements with V1.32 over V1.31?
> 
> 
> What improvements are there with ARC 1.2.1 vs 1.1?
> 
> 
> I don't need to remeasure is that correct? Do I open the AnthemRoomCorrection Application and go to advanced and open my old settings? Then click targets, then auto detect and then calculate? Am I done other than uploading them?
> 
> 
> John



The release notes are not out yet for D2 V1.32, so we don't really know what it does. It appears to have somewhat improved HDMI handshaking with my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR. Also, either V1.31c or V1.32 are required to allow ARC V1.2.1 to fully verify the correctness of an Upload of ARC results. I've posted a few issues with V1.32 in the last couple pages.


The release notes for ARC V1.2 are in the text file that comes with that download. I've no idea what changed from V1.2 to V1.2.1

*WARNING: Be sure to disconnect or power off your subwoofer(s) before doing an Upload of ARC results from ARC V1.2.1. It generates LOUD pops on the subwoofer output during the "uploading room correction parameters" part of the process.*


If you are satisfied that your prior ARC measurements match the new recommendations, then there is no need to re-measure for ARC V1.2.1. Just open the existing measurements file in Advanced mode, go into Targets and do an Auto Detect to get the advantage of the new algorithm for setting the default targets, accept the adjusted Targets, do a re-calculation, and do an Upload. Remember to Save User (and/or Installer) Settings after the Upload to get any adjusted cross overs or speaker levels into those memories.


The new recommendations for ARC measurements can be found in the new Section 3.15 of the D2 V1.3x Operating Manual (now available for download on the public download page). It includes two important changes. First Anthem is now saying that the mic positions should be spaced at least 24 inches apart (instead of 12 inches). Second, Anthem has clarified that the mic positions after the first position (which must be dead center at the main seating position) MUST ALTERNATE to either side of center.


That is #1 is dead center, #2 is to one side, #3 is to the other side, #4 is back to the #2 side, #5 is back to the #3 side, etc.


As before, Anthem points out that the mic height is critical. It should be at seated ear height -- and pointing straight up.


So again, if your prior measurements happened to have already been done this way, then there's no point in re-measuring. Just Auto-Detect, re-Calculate, and re-Upload.


Remember that you can use the Noise Level entry in the Setup / Speaker Calibration menu of the D2 to adjust the volume of the ARC test sweeps. If you are getting lots of retry requests, try raising the Noise Level by a few dB (it shouldn't take much).


---------------------------------------------


In my case, my prior set of measurements were done at 18" spacing and with #2 and #3 on the same side and #4 and #5 on the other side.


I just redid the measurements using 30" spacing and alternating the mic sides as instructed. Based on the curves and the selected cross overs, it appears to have made a significant improvement in the Center speaker. I suspect my prior measurements made it harder for ARC to distinguish room response from inherent speaker performance for that speaker, even though it seemed to be able to do it just fine for the other speakers.


I've just started listening to the newly uploaded results, and the Center speaker does indeed seem to be improved. More later....


-----------------------------------------------


This time I also found I could do the Upload of ARC results using the Keyspan USB/Serial Adapter on Windows XP running in the Bootcamp environment on an Apple MacBook. Double checking the Setup menu shows the cross overs and speaker levels all seem to have transferred across properly.


So based on just this one try, it appears Anthem really did make some good improvements in the reliability of the ARC Upload process.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/14033742
> 
> 
> Now beginning to feel some apprehension about my upgrade to the D2 (ver 1.31) from the AVM50. The AVM50 worked flawlessly, and initially the D2 also worked flawlessly. The only change made was to swap out the 2 pieces of equipment.
> 
> 
> New experiences with the D2:
> 
> ** On 2 occasions starting the system the display had no video, the screen rapidly flashed green and magenta and on at least one of the occasions there were horizontal lines emanating from the right side of the display extending out approx 1/4 of the screen. This required several restarts of the D2 to display video properly.
> 
> 
> ** On many occasions (almost all) there is what I can best describe as a blinking issue where the video goes to black and immediately comes back. This is at random rates sometimes very quickly other times several minutes between and stops completely over time.
> 
> 
> ** Thinking I may have some HDMI cable or HDCP issues I switched the source and output to the component cables; at this time I discover that the video is ghosted this includes the D2 OSD.
> 
> 
> Re-checked the new manual, don’t believe I have missed anything.
> 
> 
> Any ideas from others?



Give Anthem tech support a call. They will likely ask you to install the D2 V1.32 software as a first step, since it has some improvements both in the power up sequence and in the HDMI driver over the V1.31 version you are currently using.


Were you using V1.31 with your prior AVM-50? It could be all of your issues are software related.


The image of the Setup menu looks like it has some pretty serious ringing. The image is named "component" so I'm not sure what you are trying there, as I thought you were using HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

During my latest set of ARC measurements, ARC V1.2.1 apparently got out of synch somehow with the D2 and couldn't cause the test tone sweep to start at one speaker. Either it couldn't take the D2 out of mute or it couldn't trigger the tone playback. Simply retrying didn't help.


However, I discovered that unplugging the USB side of my Keyspan USB/Serial adapter and plugging it back in again a few seconds later caused things to get sorted out so that the next retry worked properly.


So if you get stuck this way, and happen to be using a USB/Serial adapter for the connection from the computer to the D2, try this trick. It may save you from having to redo the measurements all over again from the beginning.


I don't know if you'd have as much luck trying this with a real serial connection.

--Bob


----------



## EL

I had to revert to 1.31c, after I put 1.32, the source did not show the last menu option HDMI Repeater. I had "same as: custom" instead with weird behavior.


I followed usual upgrade procedure if anyone ask










I will retry eventually but for now, it's working fine.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EL* /forum/post/14034866
> 
> 
> I had to revert to 1.31c, after I put 1.32, the source did not show the last menu option HDMI Repeater. I had "same as: custom" instead with weird behavior.
> 
> 
> I followed usual upgrade procedure if anyone ask
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will retry eventually but for now, it's working fine.



Yes, this problem has been reported to Anthem. However, V1.32 appears to work correctly despite that screwup in the menu. Presumably it is using the HDMI Repeater setting that was previously saved in User or Installer Settings when you reload them after the V1.32 install. And the extra "Same As" line appears to match what is in the first line. So it seems the only real problem is that you can't view or change the HDMI Repeater setting for any sources.

--Bob


----------



## Whitl

Bob


How does one get to their password protected web site and course get a password. Does it come from them or the dealer. I just did the ARC 1.1 with D2 1.32 and am very intriqued by your comments with the new versions.


----------



## Axatax




> Quote:
> How does one get to their password protected web site and course get a password. Does it come from them or the dealer. I just did the ARC 1.1 with D2 1.32 and am very intriqued by your comments with the new versions.



I'm interested in trying out the new SW as well. I never knew there was such a site.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/14035250
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> How does one get to their password protected web site and course get a password. Does it come from them or the dealer. I just did the ARC 1.1 with D2 1.32 and am very intriqued by your comments with the new versions.



It's no big secret. Give Anthem tech support a call or send them an email and they will respond with the URL and password.


They are just trying to keep some sort of track as to who's using these test versions. That's why I don't want to give it out myself. And of course they want to make sure you understand the risks inherent in using "test" software that is not "officially" released yet.


In the past for example, there have been test versions that were KNOWN to not work with certain source device or display combos for example. So they would try to steer you away from versions that would just frustrate you. That's not the case with D2 V1.32 and ARC V1.2.1, but as you can see from the last couple pages here, both of these have some problems that really need to be fixed before they become production releases.

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14033774
> 
> 
> HOW about these CODES
> 
> 
> Anthem D2 Pronto OFF:
> 
> 
> 0000 006C 0066 0000 012E 009A 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046
> 
> 
> 
> Anthem D2 Pronto ON:
> 
> 
> 0000 006C 0066 0000 012E 009A 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0046 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03E0



Interestingly, ProntoProNG won't learn those codes. It states that they are invalid IR codes.


Pronto Professional will take the codes, but it puts an exclamation point next to them and they wind up in red type. I'm assuming that means they are invalid too.


I use an AMX touchscreen and RS-232 for my theater codes, so my remote can't help either.


----------



## nine ball

Hank,

Have you replaced your Ruby bulb?


What D2 ver are you running?


What Sony proj is using an 800 watt Xenon lamp....have you seen it?


Peter


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/14033724
> 
> 
> Here are my Pronto D2 zone 1 codes, I have the others they just aren't as available yet. Change .zip to .xcf



Thanks, I translated these from Pronto Professional to ProtoProNG, and they work just fine.


In case anyone else needs them, here they are:


Discrete On:

0000 006C 0000 0022 0132 0099 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03BD


Discrete Off:

0000 006C 0000 0022 0132 0099 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03BD


Thanks again for the help. I'll get the whole set to Remote Central and Nick in a few days when I get them all in. If I have any trouble, I might ask you to post your xcf file with the complete set (although your xcf file certainly had most of them. No power command, though.)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14034515
> 
> 
> This has got me thinking how ARC works with dipoles. I have a pair of B&W DS8S speakers set as dipoles for my system and the sound from those speakers is very diffuse, lots of reflections with a direct null close to the listener position as it should be. I have an ARC system on order (has been for 5 weeks now) and was wondering how it will handle these reflections from the dipoles. Does anyone have a dipole set up for their surround speakers and has used ARC? Does it manage to handle the reflective nature of the sound?



I would think ARC would work very well indeed with dipoles. Apparently a key part of what it does is to try to separate out room response from inherent speaker performance. And the less directional the speakers are the less the various mic positions will be affected by directionality -- which means what's left, i.e., what's making up any measured difference from mic position to mic position, must be room response.


=====================


ETA: I see we've passed 14,000 posts in this thread! Pretty good for a 2 year old product. Maybe we should have a party for 15,000.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/14035359
> 
> 
> Hank,
> 
> Have you replaced your Ruby bulb?
> 
> 
> What D2 ver are you running?
> 
> 
> What Sony proj is using an 800 watt Xenon lamp....have you seen it?
> 
> 
> Peter



Same Bulb as original.


D2 FW is 1.11


I have no idea What Sony proj is using an 800 watt Xenon lamp


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/14035359
> 
> 
> Hank,
> 
> Have you replaced your Ruby bulb?
> 
> 
> What D2 ver are you running?
> 
> 
> What Sony proj is using an 800 watt Xenon lamp....have you seen it?
> 
> 
> Peter



The Sony Qualia uses a 700W Xenon lamp... But rumor is there is a brighter Xenon model on the way







.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14035687
> 
> 
> Same Bulb as original.
> 
> 
> D2 FW is 1.11
> 
> 
> I have no idea What Sony proj is using an 800 watt Xenon lamp



I am about to go to my third lamp........I believe the second seemed to degrade at a faster clip than the first. I'm at 1400 hrs which is about 500hrs beyond the acceptable UN standard for technologies available to primates taller than three feet!!!!


I asked about the D2 version as I'm also about to jump from 1.10 to the latest 'approved' full prod build 1.3.2. and I have what amounts to a quantum leap. I'm going to just pull the HDMI cables, close my eyes, and hit the enter key. I just picked up my ARC but I think I'll wait to deploy that for a few weeks to verify some sense of normal system behaviour before I jump into those waters.


There have been a number of observations here that the move from 1.11 to 1.3(x) has improved PQ and I figured I would check to see if you had that experience before I changed the bulb. Clearly, you haven't as I assume you have committed to reduce global warming by NOT changing your bulb and proving that watching a movie with only three candle power is not impossible even with a Ruby!!!!


So I guess its change the bulb, then change the D2 and then the ARC finishing with the PS3 which you and Bob have finally convinced me to do.


Really Hank, how can you possibly watch anything with your ruby? Oh, I get it, you're wearing night goggles!


Peter


PS. the 800 watt bulb is real.


----------



## sbwright

deleted, badly formated message


----------



## sbwright

zzzzdoc


The "Power" button on the remote is the discrete "ON" code, I don't believe they have a toggle "Power" code or button.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/14036378
> 
> 
> Really Hank, how can you possibly watch anything with your ruby? Oh, I get it, you're wearing night goggles!
> 
> 
> Peter.



It is NOT about the BULB.


I learned that back in 1996 when I built my Theater

using DIM CRT PJ's. It is about Light Control and then

the NASTY Secret no one talks about.


It is ABOUT the High-Gain SCREEN.


----------



## MStanic

I have the D2 without the ARC. Is it just a matter of me buying the ARC kit or does Anthem need to physically retrofit the unit to make it work with ARC?


Also, What is the difference between a D2 with ARC vs a D2 retrofitted with ARC? Is ARC easier to use on a D2 that already includes it?


I guess it's worth it from the responses in this thread...that's great?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/14038259
> 
> 
> I have the D2 without the ARC. Is it just a matter of me buying the ARC kit or does Anthem need to physically retrofit the unit to make it work with ARC?
> 
> 
> Also, What is the difference between a D2 with ARC vs a D2 retrofitted with ARC? Is ARC easier to use on a D2 that already includes it?
> 
> 
> I guess it's worth it from the responses in this thread...that's great?



Get your unit serial number and order the ARC via your dealer. That's it. There is no difference between New D2 with ARC and Kit version. There is no retrofitting involved (no opening of the chassis).


----------



## bballer

When calibrating your video display, do you first calibrate the television then the D2. Or, do you calibrate the television(using the televisions's controls) through the D2?


I have my D2 set to extended RGB for the PS3, with PS3 hdmi set to full RGB, is this correct?


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14035495
> 
> 
> I would think ARC would work very well indeed with dipoles. Apparently a key part of what it does is to try to separate out room response from inherent speaker performance. And the less directional the speakers are the less the various mic positions will be affected by directionality -- which means what's left, i.e., what's making up any measured difference from mic position to mic position, must be room response.
> 
> 
> =====================
> 
> 
> ETA: I see we've passed 14,000 posts in this thread! Pretty good for a 2 year old product. Maybe we should have a party for 15,000.
> 
> --Bob



Bob


Thanks for the response. What you say makes sense. Now I have to just hope that my ARC comes soooooooon!


Mike


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14038169
> 
> 
> It is NOT about the BULB.
> 
> 
> I learned that back in 1996 when I built my Theater
> 
> using DIM CRT PJ's. It is about Light Control and then
> 
> the NASTY Secret no one talks about.
> 
> 
> It is ABOUT the High-Gain SCREEN.



Hank,

You really are so much fun. I had the first High-Gain screen in 1980 before it was even known as a product differentiator. My 'model one' demanded full ambient light control or it was fog city!

I honestly feel you are missing the 'wow' factor that I know I experienced when I slipped the new bulb in the first replacement. Also the D2 doubly enhances that experience due to the significant software evolution post 1.11 if you believe half of what you read in this thread.


Since you drive the second fastest production car in the world surely you can afford to fully exploit that phenomenal environment you have created and use your new bulb. Think about it.......you might even half way catch up to Bob!


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/14038714
> 
> 
> Since you drive the second fastest production car in the world surely you can afford to fully exploit that phenomenal environment you have created and use your new bulb. Think about it.......you might even half way catch up to Bob!
> 
> 
> Peter



I'm OLD - I need to save my eyes from excessive brightness


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bballer* /forum/post/14038455
> 
> 
> When calibrating your video display, do you first calibrate the television then the D2. Or, do you calibrate the television(using the televisions's controls) through the D2?
> 
> 
> I have my D2 set to extended RGB for the PS3, with PS3 hdmi set to full RGB, is this correct?



Bob P will answer this question as he has soooooo many times in this lengthy thread. I can tell you that it is highly recommended that you calibrate the projector to the source material available in the D2 then calibrate the various source devices to the D2 and do NOT touch the projector. As has been noted before wherever possible let your D2 do the heavy lifting. Bob and or Hank can answer your ps3 question as I haven't mounted mine yet.


Also for anyone 'lurking' or first time posters I have some advice that may bear fruit for some............At the top of this thread there are a number of very generic subjects covered that range from basic calibration procedures to answers to basic and advanced configuration challenges that many of us have experienced from the beginning. Bob Pariseau has authored many of them and they remain Nobel Prize winning candidates not just for their proprietary relevance to the Anthems but to the home theater general domain. Even experienced members of this thread have revisited them from time to time with consistent echoes of their continuing value. So take a quick peek at the first page of this thread and see if it makes sense...........alot of work and experience are located in those first update articles and have immeasurable value for all of us.


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bballer* /forum/post/14038455
> 
> 
> I have my D2 set to extended RGB for the PS3, with PS3 hdmi set to full RGB, is this correct?



HDMI always requires the YPB or something like that setting.

For sure it has a "Y" in the name.


RGB is for DVI - NOT HDMI.


----------



## sbwright

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
Give Anthem tech support a call. They will likely ask you to install the D2 V1.32 software as a first step, since it has some improvements both in the power up sequence and in the HDMI driver over the V1.31 version you are currently using.


Were you using V1.31 with your prior AVM-50? It could be all of your issues are software related.


The image of the Setup menu looks like it has some pretty serious ringing. The image is named "component" so I'm not sure what you are trying there, as I thought you were using HDMI.

--Bob
Thanks Bob, I'll give them a call tomorrow.


No, on my AVM-50 it was ver 1.06.


Yes the image is from the D2 component out, I was checking to see if the issues on the HDMI out were also on the component side. I found I have different issues on the comoponent out.


On a different note here are my first run ARC graphs.

 

Anthem Correction Charts.pdf 88.443359375k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bballer* /forum/post/14038455
> 
> 
> When calibrating your video display, do you first calibrate the television then the D2. Or, do you calibrate the television(using the televisions's controls) through the D2?
> 
> 
> I have my D2 set to extended RGB for the PS3, with PS3 hdmi set to full RGB, is this correct?



See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post in this thread.


First of all, Extended RGB is almost always the wrong choice if you have the option of Studio RGB, or even better YCbCr. See the posts in the "Data Format" section of the collected links for details, but the simple reason is that use of Extended RGB means you discard Blacker than Black and Peak White data and "stretch" the number of steps from Black to Reference White (which likely introduces some banding).


For connection to the D2, the PS3 should be set to send 1080p/24 (for normal Blu-Ray movie playback -- also enable 1080i for "live video" Blu-Ray discs, 720p for some games, and 480p -- no upscaling -- if you intend to play standard DVDs as well), using YCbCr output and with SuperWhite turned on. The Extended/Limited RGB setting should be left at its default, Limited setting, but it doesn't really make any difference so long as you are using YCbCr output from the PS3. The Extended/Limited setting only affects RGB output. I believe some games may force the PS3 to send RGB so that's why you should confirm the Limited setting. Meanwhile, in the Video Source Adjust / Picture / Input Color space menu for that input in the D2 (under the "7" key), confirm that Auto YCbCr and Studio RGB are both checked.


-----------------------------------


Calibrating a modern TV -- as done by a professional calibration specialist (i.e., an ISF technician) -- involves several things a user would not normally be able to do, or do well, beyond the setting of the basic video levels (e.g., Brightness, Contrast, Color, Tint, and Sharpness). In particular, the ISF tech will attempt to go into hidden service menus in the TV to fine tune the gray scale ramps and color temperature of the display -- Gamma correction and such. To do that, he will use a signal generator that sends a known signal to the display, and he will have to adjust the basic levels as well as a preliminary step of this. But the MAIN thing you are gaining from this effort is the adjustments he makes in the service menus to refine the internal factory settings of the display. And when done correctly this is a big win.


The video the D2 outputs, as exemplified by its internally generated test patterns, is close enough to a reference video signal (if not identical) that the calibration the ISF tech comes up with should be just right for use with the D2 as well. BUT, if the tech was forced to make some compromises in his setup of the display -- as is far too common given the limited adjustment controls in many displays -- the basic level settings he leaves in the display may not be quite perfect for use with the D2.


Ideally, having adjusted the display using his signal generator, he should then REFINE those adjustments (again in the service menus as necessary) to precisely match the video the D2 puts out using the D2's internally generated test patterns. It may turn out that only modest tweaks to the display's basic video levels will suffice or he may need to revise his entire "compromise" combo of settings between the basic levels and the service menu.


The D2 also provides additional control over the Gamma correction built into its video output. The tech may be able to make good use of that to get around limited controls in the display itself, and to come up with a video solution which is more perfect and less of a compromise. Again, this sort of thing is BEST done inside the display, so that's where he should start. But the output adjustments in the D2 (Video Source Adjust / Output / Gamma for EACH input -- as extended by the Live Video Settings Editor application) may provide just the extra control he needs to get around some thorny problems in the display.


If the tech doesn't want to do that, for whatever reason, then *YOU* need to adjust the basic levels of the display to match the output of the D2. And with a well calibrated display the necessary tweaks should be minor. It is unlikely you will go into the service menus yourself, but you will likely be able to refine the display's settings all you need simply by doing user level adjustments of its basic video levels.


So whether or not you do this sort of full scale adjustment of the factory settings of the display -- including service menu adjustments -- it is still fundamental that the initial step in setting up the D2 is to refine the basic video level settings of the display to best reproduce the test patterns internally generated in the D2.


And all of that is independent of any video input sources connected to your D2.


Once that is done, you adjust independently for your video input sources using the input adjustments on the D2. The display's setup remains unchanged during this as it is the D2's job to convert any input video to the same video output (as shown by the D2's internal video test patterns) that you've already used to set up your display.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/14038952
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I'll give them a call tomorrow.
> 
> 
> No, on my AVM-50 it was ver 1.06.
> 
> 
> Yes the image is from the D2 component out, I was checking to see if the issues on the HDMI out were also on the component side. I found I have different issues on the comoponent out.
> 
> 
> On a different note here are my first run ARC graphs.



The Component video issue may simply be that you have Sharpness cranked all the way up on that input in your display. But the ringing (ghost imaging) is so severe it looks more like an improperly terminated Component video connection or that you are pushing a video resolution into the display over those Component cables that the display is not really able to handle via Component.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I believe the ARC re-measurement I did using the new Anthem instructions (at least 24" between mic positions and successive mic positions alternating left and right of center) has made for significant improvement in my center speaker results.


For whatever reason, the prior measurements I did, even as re-analyzed by ARC V1.2.1, apparently decided my center speaker was a poorer performing speaker than it really is. This was evidenced by a rather high cross over and by the particular "target" curve selected for that speaker (virtually no room gain and sharper roll off at either end). I suspect this is due to ARC having trouble detecting the true room response to that speaker (given the way I did the older measurements) and thus ARC was interpreting what it was hearing as inherently poor speaker performance.


The curious thing was that it was ONLY my center speaker that had these results. This is why it didn't occur to me that the measurement mic positioning might be at fault. For a while, I even thought I might have Richard Syndrome in that speaker.


Mind you, ARC did a fine job "correcting" the center speaker EVEN GIVEN ALL THAT, but the latest set of measurements allows ARC to make better use of what that speaker can actually handle.


And the result is audibly superior.


The new mic positioning recommendations seem to be a big improvement.

--Bob


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14035495
> 
> 
> 
> ETA: I see we've passed 14,000 posts in this thread! Pretty good for a 2 year old product. Maybe we should have a party for 15,000.
> 
> --Bob




Bob,

I couldn't agree more. We could meet at Hank's but we'd have to sit in the dark.


Seriously it is a testament to this technology that it has sustained this incredible level of continuing interest and involvement from such a worldwide diverse group. Although, there have been significant improvements in other 'competing technologies' in the last year.....they are still playing catch-up to the anthems and NONE of them have demonstrated the ongoing suite of improvements to the existing box (D2) nor are they even capable. I offer ARC as the prime example. There have been more improvements to ARC since its release to better the product than any other integrated or stand alone device on the market. What a phenomenal accomplishment!


So yes Bob, I'm up for some sort of celebration at 15,000. Perhaps the fall conference in Denver???


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/14039457
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I couldn't agree more. We could meet at Hank's but we'd have to sit in the dark.



ONLY Theater #3 is DARK.


The rest of the place is well lit.


Speaking of Well Lit - I bought a BRIGHT PJ

for the Game Room - where there is lots of

LIGHT to deal with.


It should arrive Thursday.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14039575
> 
> 
> ONLY Theater #3 is DARK.
> 
> 
> The rest of the place is well lit.
> 
> 
> Speaking of Well Lit - I bought a BRIGHT PJ
> 
> for the Game Room - where there is lots of
> 
> LIGHT to deal with.
> 
> 
> It should arrive Thursday.



OK, I'll bite, which one?


Will you run it through the D2?


Peter


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/14039676
> 
> 
> OK, I'll bite, which one?
> 
> 
> Will you run it through the D2?
> 
> 
> Peter



NO D2 - it is for GAMING - See Below.


PT-AX200U


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14039755
> 
> 
> NO D2 - it is for GAMING - See Below.
> 
> 
> PT-AX200U



Oh my God..........Hank will you marry me?????????



Where did you get that rig?????


----------



## drmabuse

I just did both updates to the D2.

1.32 installed without incident and other than what has been mentioned have noticed a few small differences so far. Notice the onscreen says PCM now when listening to CD's.

Also...when running through status the Audio Output now has a "DMut" on the lower right corner.

Bob - any idea what this is?


As for the new ARC, I reran the entire procedure including test signals.

The tones now run approximately 8 times as opposed to the previous 4 or 5.

My readings came out relatively the same. The upload process went without incident and I did not experience the Sub pops (not the label ) mentioned by Bob earlier.

I am now convincing myself that my system sounds better than it did before!

I LOVE THIS MACHINE!

/\\/\\


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/14039904
> 
> 
> Oh my God..........Hank will you marry me?????????
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get that rig?????



Where all good gammers go - the TOY STORE


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/14039946
> 
> 
> Also...when running through status the Audio Output now has a "DMut" on the lower right corner.
> 
> Bob - any idea what this is?



I don't recall seeing this. And I haven't spotted any write up on it. At a guess it stands for Digital Mute -- perhaps meaning the D2's digital audio output (for use with a digital audio recorder) is muted due to the digital audio input being copy protected.


Also, I wonder what might be different that you didn't hear the sub pops during the ARC upload? You are brave to even try it after the dire warnings posted here.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14040602
> 
> 
> I don't recall seeing this. And I haven't spotted any write up on it. At a guess it stands for Digital Mute -- perhaps meaning the D2's digital audio output (for use with a digital audio recorder) is muted due to the digital audio input being copy protected.
> 
> 
> Also, I wonder what might be different that you didn't hear the sub pops during the ARC upload? You are brave to even try it after the dire warnings posted here.
> 
> --Bob



Have 1.32 and ARC 1.2.1 also. Did the re-measurements before the warning, did not notice any loud pop with the subwoofer.


Even with the new way of placing the mics, I still get relatively the same response curve as before, i.e, no ROOM GAIN. I emailed Nick about this and I will send him my ARC file later.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14040602
> 
> 
> Also, I wonder what might be different that you didn't hear the sub pops during the ARC upload? You are brave to even try it after the dire warnings posted here.
> 
> --Bob



Perhaps more stupid than brave but was curious.


----------



## drmabuse

One of the things I keep meaning to mention to Nick is this...

Whenever I upload my settings to my computer for file save or download back into the D2 the Subs setting in both Movie and Music goes back to 1 Sub as opposed to my saved setting as 2 Subs.

Has anyone else ever noticed this? Not a big deal just one of those odd things that never seems to get fixed in any of the updates...

/\\/\\


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/14041634
> 
> 
> One of the things I keep meaning to mention to Nick is this...
> 
> Whenever I upload my settings to my computer for file save or download back into the D2 the Subs setting in both Movie and Music goes back to 1 Sub as opposed to my saved setting as 2 Subs.
> 
> Has anyone else ever noticed this? Not a big deal just one of those odd things that never seems to get fixed in any of the updates...
> 
> /\\/\\



Yes I did notice that, checked the new manual, it says if using ARC to select 1 sub


----------



## funlvr1965

ARC is setting my subs to -5 and I would like some more from my subs so I find myself using the subwoofer trim in the D2 to raise the level, couldnt I just go into the calibraition and remove the -5 and bring it back to 0.0? any negative effect of doing that?


----------



## dschamis

"Be sure to disconnect or power off your subwoofer(s) before doing an Upload of ARC results from ARC V1.2.1. It generates LOUD pops on the subwoofer output during the "uploading room correction parameters" part of the process."



Its funny - mine didn't do this w/ 1.32 and 1.2.1 - anyone else not have this happen?


----------



## tngiloy

Hi, it's me , the computer moron again.

I downloaded v1.32 from the Anthem site and, although I haven't uploaded it to my D2 yet I've done that enough times that I know that as long as I follow the directions I can do it with no problems.

I also downloaded the ARC 1.2.1. My question is how do I merge the new ARC program with my original ARC?

There are now 2 icons on my desktop. How do I combine them so that the old ARC has the new upgrades. Please don't laugh.

OK go ahead and laugh, but please help me.

Also the 'read me' for the new ARC says that if the ARC is 1.0 you need to run the speaker sweeps with the mic again. When I open my original ARC program it doesn't say which version it is. When I right click on it and open properties it doesn't say which version it is. How can I tell?

Now when I look at the properties of my original ARC it says it was modified tonight at the same time I downloded and unzipped the new ARC1.2.1. It couldn't have possibly merged with the old ARC? It couldn't be that easy, could it?

HELP!

Tom


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14042378
> 
> 
> When I open my original ARC program it doesn't say which version it is. When I right click on it and open properties it doesn't say which version it is. How can I tell?



Usually, the HELP tab item: ABOUT has this information.


----------



## joealbracht

TNGILOY - start ARC, at the "Welcome" dialog box, pick the custom/advanced option and then "OK". Then click on help>about to see the version number.


ETA - read Bob Pariseau's post at this link for additional info on upgrading ARC to 1.2.1
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post14013570


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joealbracht* /forum/post/14042444
> 
> 
> TNGILOY - start ARC, at the "Welcome" dialog box, pick the custom/advanced option and then "OK". Then click on help>about to see the version number.
> 
> 
> ETA - read Bob Pariseau's post at this link for additional info on upgrading ARC to 1.2.1
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post14013570



Thanks- its 1.1 which will save me having to run the sound sweeps with the mic again. Since the last time I ran it I was lucky enough to do the main-left-right-left-right mic placement sequence now I just have to figure out how to update the 1.1 to the 1.2.1.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/14042019
> 
> 
> ARC is setting my subs to -5 and I would like some more from my subs so I find myself using the subwoofer trim in the D2 to raise the level, couldnt I just go into the calibraition and remove the -5 and bring it back to 0.0? any negative effect of doing that?



Yes. The transition from your subs to your main speakers as the frequency goes up will no longer be seamless.


---------------------------------


However, that aside, if you raise the subwoofer speaker calibration level after Uploading ARC results you will indeed end up with hotter subs if that's what you want. You could also raise the subwoofer's internal volume control after doing your ARC measurements.


But my recommendation would be that you should live with the results ARC has produced for quite some time before second guessing it.


Another thing to think about is whether you actually have enough subwoofer for the total air volume you are trying to pressurize in your listening room, and whether your subwoofer polarity/phase settings are correct. Often the feeling that the sub volume needs to be increased, despite calibration readings, is due to one of three things: (1) You have serious uncorrected cancellation nulls at various critical frequencies in your listening room such as around 50-60Hz. ARC should deal with that. Or (2), you don't have the Polarity and Phase adjusted properly for your subwoofer so you are getting cancellation near the crossover frequency when audio from the sub and from your main speakers cancel each other out because they are out of phase with each other. Or (3), your subwoofer is too small for the air volume you need to pressurize. Often, calibration readings shows proper sub volume but you don't have the "gut feel" of enough bass. In fact this also means you are likely stressing your sub by making it work so hard.


Check the subwoofer forum here for advice on how much subwoofer you need for a given listening room volume. The Velodyne site also has a sub selection dialog which will give you some idea based on their models. Adding a second subwoofer is sometimes easier than upping the size of a single subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14042550
> 
> 
> Thanks- its 1.1 which will save me having to run the sound sweeps with the mic again. Since the last time I ran it I was lucky enough to do the main-left-right-left-right mic placement sequence now I just have to figure out how to update the 1.1 to the 1.2.1.
> 
> Tom



The thing on your desktop is just a "shortcut" to the application -- a pointer to the real application file.


Installing V1.2.1 should uninstall and delete the old version of the program. The fact that your 1.1 version is still on your computer is surprising. Did you actually "install" V1.2.1 -- i.e., run its Setup.exe program to execute its install wizard? You don't want to just run the program that's sitting in the install folder after you download and unzip that folder. It needs to be "installed".


In any event, after installing V1.2.1 you can go to the new folder in Program Files (see the text file of release notes) and create a new shortcut to the V1.2.1 ARC if you need to.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/14042031
> 
> 
> "Be sure to disconnect or power off your subwoofer(s) before doing an Upload of ARC results from ARC V1.2.1. It generates LOUD pops on the subwoofer output during the "uploading room correction parameters" part of the process."
> 
> 
> 
> Its funny - mine didn't do this w/ 1.32 and 1.2.1 - anyone else not have this happen?



Well I guess we'll have to revise the WARNING to say that it *MAY* generate loud pops. (grin!)


At least one other poster here also experienced the loud pops, so I'm no crazier than usual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/14041634
> 
> 
> One of the things I keep meaning to mention to Nick is this...
> 
> Whenever I upload my settings to my computer for file save or download back into the D2 the Subs setting in both Movie and Music goes back to 1 Sub as opposed to my saved setting as 2 Subs.
> 
> Has anyone else ever noticed this? Not a big deal just one of those odd things that never seems to get fixed in any of the updates...
> 
> /\\/\\



My understanding is that the "2 subs" setting is merely a convenience setting in that it reduces the subwoofer speaker calibration test tone to account for the extra driver. ARC wouldn't need that.


On the other hand, if you play the D2's speaker calibration test tones after uploading ARC results, the fact that it resets that back to "1 sub" may mean that your 2 subs measure hot on your SPL meter.


It's definitely confusing the way it is now.

--Bob


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14042655
> 
> 
> Yes. The transition from your subs to your main speakers as the frequency goes up will no longer be seamless.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> Another thing to think about is whether you actually have enough subwoofer for the total air volume you are trying to pressurize in your listening room, and whether your subwoofer polarity/phase settings are correct. Often the feeling that the sub volume needs to be increased, despite calibration readings, is due to one of three things: (1) You have serious uncorrected cancellation nulls at various critical frequencies in your listening room such as around 50-60Hz. ARC should deal with that. Or (2), you don't have the Polarity and Phase adjusted properly for your subwoofer so you are getting cancellation near the crossover frequency when audio from the sub and from your main speakers cancel each other out because they are out of phase with each other. Or (3), your subwoofer is too small for the air volume you need to pressurize. Often, calibration readings shows proper sub volume but you don't have the "gut feel" of enough bass. In fact this also means you are likely stressing your sub by making it work so hard.
> 
> 
> Check the subwoofer forum here for advice on how much subwoofer you need for a given listening room volume. The Velodyne site also has a sub selection dialog which will give you some idea based on their models. Adding a second subwoofer is sometimes easier than upping the size of a single subwoofer.
> 
> --Bob



Bob no offense since I dont think you know my setup, believe me I have more than enough sub, two custom built "submersive1" subs, Art Sonneberg has 4 of these in a huge room, I have two in a room that is roughly 13 x17, initially the calibration for the subs and custom mains(also similar to Arts) were done by Mark Seaton, each sub has 2 "15" custom drivers using 1000watt digital amp. After Mark Calibrated my subs and new mains I decided to see if ARC could improve upon that, what I have found is that on a good calibration from ARC imaging from mains and surrounds are great but ARC doesnt seem to want to run my subs hot the way I like them, hence my question so I dont think its a matter of not having enough firepower its the fact that ARC hold back the firepower from the subs and im trying to find a way to keep the good imaging and dynamics that I get from ARC and still getting the punch you in the gut from Mark Seatons sub calibration, The pics are from the new mains installed and calibrated by Mark Seaton along with the subs, you will see only one sub in the front, the other sub is behind the seating position. It was after Mark did his calibration that I decided to try ARC which was about two weeks later. Thanks for your reply I will keep playing with ARC to see if I could get hotter subs without messing with the subs post calibration


----------



## Bob Pariseau

funlvr1965,

Well it certainly seems you have the basics covered! (grin!)


As far as I can tell, if you simply up the sub calibration level in the Setup menu AFTER uploading ARC results you will get hotter sub output.


You can test that perhaps more easily on a source by source basis by using the temporary subwoofer trim control on the Anthem remote (see Section 4.6 in the manual).


Ideally ARC would need to offer a bass volume bias control to trim the bass target up or down from "correct" calibration prior to its calculations -- while still maintaining a proper transition from the subwoofer to the main speakers.

--Bob


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14043053
> 
> 
> funlvr1965,
> 
> Well it certainly seems you have the basics covered! (grin!)
> 
> 
> 
> Ideally ARC would need to offer a bass volume bias control to trim the bass target up or down from "correct" calibration prior to its calculations -- while still maintaining a proper transition from the subwoofer to the main speakers.
> 
> --Bob



This my friend is exactly what im after, now how do we get Anthem to impliment it? I will try your suggestion of going back into calibration post ARC although like you said I think sun/main cohesion may take a hit.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14042693
> 
> 
> Well I guess we'll have to revise the WARNING to say that it *MAY* generate loud pops. (grin!)
> 
> 
> At least one other poster here also experienced the loud pops, so I'm no crazier than usual.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, well, the posts scared me enough to unplug my sub while doing all the upgrading of the firmware and ARC. However, after re-running all the measurements (necessary since I also switched D2s and all the .arc files seem to be specific for serial number, damn!), I uploaded the corrections with sub on and had no disturbing noises.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Evidently, the loud subwoofer pops when uploading ARC results are random. I wonder what is different about the D2s that show this problem? It may be as simple as that some sort of internal "mute" command didn't get transferred properly over the serial connection, which would mean I too might not get the pops if I did another upload.


That's interesting about the ARC results files *ALSO* being keyed to the D2 serial #. This could be a problem for folks who have an installer do their ARC setup for them and then need to swap out their D2. They would need to get the installer back. I take it Anthem sent you a new pair of calibration/license files to match the new serial # so you could re-create your ARC results.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14044306
> 
> 
> Evidently, the loud subwoofer pops when uploading ARC results are random. I wonder what is different about the D2s that show this problem? It may be as simple as that some sort of internal "mute" command didn't get transferred properly over the serial connection, which would mean I too might not get the pops if I did another upload.



I wonder if the MUTE sign comes up for those with the sub-pops. The usual cycle is that the D2 is turned on by the ARC install, set to FM (for me, just hiss) and then actively Muted.



> Quote:
> That's interesting about the ARC results files *ALSO* being keyed to the D2 serial #. This could be a problem for folks who have an installer do their ARC setup for them and then need to swap out their D2. They would need to get the installer back. I take it Anthem sent you a new pair of calibration/license files to match the new serial # so you could re-create your ARC results.



Yes. But even with those files in the right place, the .arc files will be usable by ARC but not uploadable to the D2. I had to re-do all the measurements (but I am getting pretty swift at those by now).


----------



## ensmarcum

I have an off the wall question, probably not the forum to write it in but I want to see what you guys think. I have just ordered the Klipsch THX Ultra II system and I want to build a cabinet that will house the front three speakers. The speakers themselves are 15"H x 17"W x 12.5" D. My plan is to have the three on the top shelf, then have 6 compartments under them to house my equipment. Does anyone have any idea about the acoustics or problems that might arise from a design like this? I know alot of cabinets you can have the center speaker in or on, which I do now with my current setup but with three speakers that size so close together in one cabinet, would that be trouble for acoustics? This is kind of more out of necessity than desire, WAF! The cabinet I designed is 32" H x 20" D X 7ft W. There will be about 1.375 ft in between each speaker, and I plan on a sort of enclosure on each side of the speakers. Here is a rough that I did in paint. See what you think.


Attachment 112553


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14045860
> 
> 
> I wonder if the MUTE sign comes up for those with the sub-pops. The usual cycle is that the D2 is turned on by the ARC install, set to FM (for me, just hiss) and then actively Muted.



In my case, at the time the loud subwoofer pops happened (during the "uploading room correction parameters" phase of the ARC results Upload), the D2 was powered on, the FM input was selected, and the volume was showing on the Front Panel display as -91.5dB (not Muted).


I included these details in my report to Nick at Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14047311
> 
> 
> In my case, at the time the loud subwoofer pops happened (during the "uploading room correction parameters" phase of the ARC results Upload), the D2 was powered on, the FM input was selected, and the volume was showing on the Front Panel display as -91.5dB (not Muted).
> 
> 
> I included these details in my report to Nick at Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



My MUTE was showing and I did not hear any pops.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/14046659
> 
> 
> I have an off the wall question, probably not the forum to write it in but I want to see what you guys think. I have just ordered the Klipsch THX Ultra II system and I want to build a cabinet that will house the front three speakers. The speakers themselves are 15"H x 17"W x 12.5" D. My plan is to have the three on the top shelf, then have 6 compartments under them to house my equipment. Does anyone have any idea about the acoustics or problems that might arise from a design like this? I know alot of cabinets you can have the center speaker in or on, which I do now with my current setup but with three speakers that size so close together in one cabinet, would that be trouble for acoustics? This is kind of more out of necessity than desire, WAF! The cabinet I designed is 32" H x 20" D X 7ft W. There will be about 1.375 ft in between each speaker, and I plan on a sort of enclosure on each side of the speakers. Here is a rough that I did in paint. See what you think.



IMHO, speaker cabinets inside cabinets is never a good idea. Proximate front edges will inflict diffraction and open/empty spaces will add resonance. Not only that but the structure has to be sufficiently rigid to avoid sympathetic vibrations which might be transmitted to other components.


That said, people do it and you might try the speakers forum. You might also consider speakers designed to be built into walls.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/14046659
> 
> 
> I have an off the wall question, probably not the forum to write it in but I want to see what you guys think. I have just ordered the Klipsch THX Ultra II system and I want to build a cabinet that will house the front three speakers. The speakers themselves are 15"H x 17"W x 12.5" D. My plan is to have the three on the top shelf, then have 6 compartments under them to house my equipment. Does anyone have any idea about the acoustics or problems that might arise from a design like this? I know alot of cabinets you can have the center speaker in or on, which I do now with my current setup but with three speakers that size so close together in one cabinet, would that be trouble for acoustics? This is kind of more out of necessity than desire, WAF! The cabinet I designed is 32" H x 20" D X 7ft W. There will be about 1.375 ft in between each speaker, and I plan on a sort of enclosure on each side of the speakers. Here is a rough that I did in paint. See what you think.
> 
> 
> Attachment 112553




If you cannot do without the cabinet, al least line the internal cavity with fiberboard like OC 703 or 705. It will reduce some of the acoustic problems you will encounter, but not all.


----------



## ensmarcum

Thanks for the replies. I cant do the inwall speaker because of my house that I rent. I dont know what to do. I had a cabinet maker get something together for a price, we will see what he says. He said he would make it out of 3/4 in pine, pretty sturdy wood. Well, thanks for the replies even though this isnt the forum for this.


----------



## goatwuss

Hello,


Does the D2 do auto-input detection? In other words, if the tivo is on, and the ps3 is set to higher priority, and I turn on the ps3, will it automatically change the video and sound over to the ps3?


Or would I have to manually change inputs?


Thanks

Goatwuss


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/14050393
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Does the D2 do auto-input detection? In other words, if the tivo is on, and the ps3 is set to higher priority, and I turn on the ps3, will it automatically change the video and sound over to the ps3?
> 
> 
> Or would I have to manually change inputs?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Goatwuss



You have to manually change inputs with one exception: You can set up an input to automatically switch between digital and analog audio input depending on whether or not audio is actually present on the digital input. Some people use that to share an input between two source devices (one of which is audio only).


The D2 has a pair of remote buttons which will scan forward or backward in the set of inputs to jump to the next input that is currently active. Frankly I never use that.


Instead I use a Harmony 880 remote. When I decide I want to watch a Blu-Ray movie I select the Watch Blu-Ray activity I've set up on my Harmony and it turns on the PS3 (using the IR2BT product to convert the IR remote codes from the Harmony to the BlueTooth radio signals the PS3 is looking for), switches the D2 to the right HDMI input for use with the PS3, and turns off the input source previously in use (except for a DVR like the Tivo which you would likely want to leave ON all the time so it can still record programs).


Programmable remotes such as the Hamony are so convenient it is by far the best way to go.


However, the HDMI V1.3 spec includes optional control commands that can allow one device to control another and do the sort of thing you are asking for (only if all the devices implement this optional feature, and typically only if all the devices are made by the same company). If that's what you want, the D2 is not for you as it is an HDMI V1.1 device and includes none of that.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Well I downloaded the new beta ARC and took new measurements. The measurements look the same but the targets did change. After listening for a few hours, this is a definate improvement. The bass is slightly more pronounced and my Salk HT3's have totally disappeared.


By the way no subwoofer pops when uploading to the D2


I talked with Nick and he did not recommend the new 1.32 software just yet. He also said if your last measurements were using ARC 1.1 you shouldn't need to remeasure, I did anyway.


----------



## Axatax

I'm expecting my D1 back from Anthem today (D1-HD upgrade). For the time being, I'll be using another VP to handle video, and will send HDMI into the Anthem for audio use only.


If I input HDMI into the Anthem, but DON'T have an HDMI display connected, will the unit still be able to process audio, or will HDCP rear its ugly head?


----------



## thebland

If Anthem is following the HDCP specs, you won't get multi-channel sound (lossless). HDMI HDCP requires a 'sink' at the end of the HDMI chain - usually an HDMI display. Your options are to buy a small HDMI monitor (I needed to do this with my Halcro). CC has one for $180 or buy an HDMI Fury (defeats HDCP) and acts as an HDMI sink. That said, receivers and some pre/pros allow you to turn the monitor off and get the audio - perhaps the Anthem does.... Give it a go.


----------



## Axatax




> Quote:
> CC has one for $180 or buy an HDMI Fury (defeats HDCP) and acts as an HDMI sink. That said, receivers and some pre/pros allow you to turn the monitor off and get the audio - perhaps the Anthem does.... Give it a go.



Ack. Figured as much. Have an external Moome box in-hand if the need arises...


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Axatax* /forum/post/14051339
> 
> 
> Ack. Figured as much. Have an external Moome box in-hand if the need arises...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/14051333
> 
> 
> If Anthem is following the HDCP specs, you won't get multi-channel sound (lossless). HDMI HDCP requires a 'sink' at the end of the HDMI chain - usually an HDMI display. Your options are to buy a small HDMI monitor (I needed to do this with my Halcro). CC has one for $180 or buy an HDMI Fury (defeats HDCP) and acts as an HDMI sink. That said, receivers and some pre/pros allow you to turn the monitor off and get the audio - perhaps the Anthem does.... Give it a go.




I think the D2 is actually seen as a sink and therefore will process the audio as if it had an HDCP TV attached. It will however not pass on the sigal (video) on to a non HDCP TV. I might be absolutely wrong, but I thought this is the way it worked.


----------



## vivekg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14051434
> 
> 
> I think the D2 is actually seen as a sink and therefore will process the audio as if it had an HDCP TV attached. It will however not pass on the sigal (video) on to a non HDCP TV. I might be absolutely wrong, but I thought this is the way it worked.



I find that this is exactly what happens. When I have the PS3 playing music or even a movie and then turn off the tv (all HDMI connections to the D2) the music cuts out for a second or two and then continues. This only happens via HDMI and I think it is because the sink is passing from the TV to the D2.


Vivek


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/14051333
> 
> 
> If Anthem is following the HDCP specs, you won't get multi-channel sound (lossless). HDMI HDCP requires a 'sink' at the end of the HDMI chain - usually an HDMI display. Your options are to buy a small HDMI monitor (I needed to do this with my Halcro). CC has one for $180 or buy an HDMI Fury (defeats HDCP) and acts as an HDMI sink. That said, receivers and some pre/pros allow you to turn the monitor off and get the audio - perhaps the Anthem does.... Give it a go.



HDMI Audio input with no HDMI display connected and powered on should work just fine with the Anthems, although there was a set of software releases in the V1.2x range where it was broken. It works with D2 V1.31c for example, although there is a new bug Anthem is working on in this regard such that for it to work the display must be turned off BEFORE you switch to the desired HDMI audio input source.


The Anthems are both a "sink" and a "repeater". The HDMI Repeater = Yes/No setting could be used to turn off the "repeater" portion of this which was necessary with some poorly engineered cable and satellite TV set top boxes that simply refused to work through a repeater. You would set Repeater=NO and the Anthem would lie to the source and tell the source it was directly connected to a TV. Meanwhile the Anthem would do the rest of the copy protection (HDCP) work on the display side -- meaning if you actually had a display connected, and it wasn't HDCP compliant, then the Anthem would tell the source that it too was not HDCP compliant and the source would mute video and audio when it thought it had to.


But if the connected display was powered on and HDCP compliant, or if there was no display connected or it was powered off, then the Anthem would tell the source it was connected to an HDCP compliant "sink" -- i.e., a TV -- and the source boxes would be happy.


------------------------------------


Apparently Anthem has come to the conclusion that this extra setup option is no longer necessary given the new firmware in the set top boxes that is now out there. So it looks like they are going to remove the HDMI Repeater choice. But it should STILL be the case that you can play HDMI audio -- even copy protected audio -- into the Anthems when there is no display connected or when it is powered off. The only time HDCP will rear its head is if you have a display connected and its HDMI socket is powered *AND* that display is *NOT* itself HDCP compliant.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I got some further details from Nick. The HDMI driver changes he had previously mentioned are not in D2 V1.32. He expects them in either D2 V1.33 or the version after that. Despite that, I continue to believe that the HDMI handshake with my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR box is working somewhat better now compared to V1.31c.


Anthem has apparently decided to try removing the HDMI Repeater option in Setup due to new firmware in cable and satellite TV boxes no longer needing it. That's how the formatting of the Setup / Source Setup menus got messed up. (The extra "Same As" menu line is harmless, and this will be fixed before production release.) I asked Nick to confirm that removing the Repeater = NO option would not mess up folks who want to listen to HDMI audio sources with their HDMI display powered off or not connected.


Other changes from D2 V1.31c to V1.32 were minor and cosmetic such as displaying "PCM" as the audio input type where appropriate. You can use ARC V1.2.1 with D2 V1.31 (i.e., the official release), but the portion of the ARC Upload process that verifies speaker calibration levels have been uploaded correctly requires V1.31c or higher in the D2. All other portions of the Upload verification work with V1.31. And yes there is no need to remeasure for ARC V1.2.1 *IF* your current measurement file was made by ARC V1.1 *AND* your method of positioning the mic for the measurements matches the current recommendations (Section 3.15 of the new version of the D2 V1.3x operating manual).


There are apparently a bunch of more significant changes in V1.32 for the AVM-50. I don't have the details. The AVM version of the software is not ready for beta testing yet.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

i have the d-2 v 1.2, no arc. have ordered same, plus uupgrade thru my dealer.

question is, what computer (and config) is best for connections to the d2?

i believe i read in an earlier post that a serial connection is best, and that vista presents occasional problems.

all of the above, as i am a mac guy, and am going to buy a laptop 'pc' [(oh, horrors)] to perform and record, etc.

any and all suggestions are warmly received, here in sunny florida.

walt


----------



## yacht422

different question from walt.

sound attentuation issues.

can someone direct me to the proper post for that subject?

or, will arc handle most of the issues? (room is 16 x 22 x 9, whith treatment at first reflections, no sub traps, etc)

thx

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14053475
> 
> 
> different question from walt.
> 
> sound attentuation issues.
> 
> can someone direct me to the proper post for that subject?
> 
> or, will arc handle most of the issues? (room is 16 x 22 x 9, whith treatment at first reflections, no sub traps, etc)
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



I don't understand your question. ARC will attempt to correct each speaker to a target curve and will match the curves and cross overs so that the transition between speakers works as it should. In doing this, ARC attempts to separate out room response issues from inherent speaker performance and focusses primarily on the room response issues. So ARC will do a lot to eliminate peaks and nulls due to room effects.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14053435
> 
> 
> i have the d-2 v 1.2, no arc. have ordered same, plus uupgrade thru my dealer.
> 
> question is, what computer (and config) is best for connections to the d2?
> 
> i believe i read in an earlier post that a serial connection is best, and that vista presents occasional problems.
> 
> all of the above, as i am a mac guy, and am going to buy a laptop 'pc' [(oh, horrors)] to perform and record, etc.
> 
> any and all suggestions are warmly received, here in sunny florida.
> 
> walt



I use Windows XP running in the BootCamp environment on a MacBook with the Keyspan USA-19HS USB-Serial adapter and the latest driver for that adapter downloaded from the Keyspan site. This works fine for measurements and doing the calculations, however with ARC V1.1 I had some problems getting a reliable Upload of the ARC results file into the D2. So I ended up transferring the file to an older Windows 2000 laptop with a real serial port. You can install ARC on a Windows 2000 machine and it will work fine for things like the Upload and for viewing files and doing calculations, but you can't use Windows 2000 for measurement because the audio microphone driver stuff is different.


With ARC V1.2.1 (the current "test" software version), I had success doing an Upload from the MacBook setup on the first try, so with that version of the software it looks like I'm all set staying in the MacBook, BootCamp, Windows XP, Keyspan adapter configuration.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

bob: many thanks for the info. i will move forward (when arc arrives)

re: sound issues. i have a room mode (standing wave in the 200 h range. sitting down, all is well. stand up, and the tooth fillings are vibrating. i was reading that bass traps help in this regard, but, being old, and a skeptic, this could be smoke & mirrors. that was the basis of my question . will arc filter (correct) out this type of modal issue? (just as a bye the bye, we have d2;p5; revel ultima salons(full range, four way speakers) and a paradigm servo 15 sub, et.al) new jvc projector to a 123" stewart screen. really a nice arrangement, just trying to make it that little bit better.

you truly are a font of knowledge! are you in the industry?

thx again

walt


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14034586
> 
> 
> Remember that you can use the Noise Level entry in the Setup / Speaker Calibration menu of the D2 to adjust the volume of the ARC test sweeps. If you are getting lots of retry requests, try raising the Noise Level by a few dB (it shouldn't take much).
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



This is an important comment. It is better to adjust the noise level before running the ARC you will significantly reduce the number of measure rejection. Using a sound meter set the noise level of the Anthem so that the noise level at your seating position is around 75db. You need to perform that measurement only once and than remember the value (in my case it is 12db) and use that value before stating any measurement session.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/14042031
> 
> 
> "Be sure to disconnect or power off your subwoofer(s) before doing an Upload of ARC results from ARC V1.2.1. It generates LOUD pops on the subwoofer output during the "uploading room correction parameters" part of the process."
> 
> 
> 
> Its funny - mine didn't do this w/ 1.32 and 1.2.1 - anyone else not have this happen?




I have not experienced any issue uploading the D2 with ARC 1.2.1 and D2 1.32.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14053311
> 
> 
> There are apparently a bunch of more significant changes in V1.32 for the AVM-50. I don't have the details. The AVM version of the software is not ready for beta testing yet.
> 
> --Bob



Please keep us updated when you know anything.

Thanks for all that you do here.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just got an email from Nick at Anthem. They think the loud subwoofer pops some of us have experienced during the Upload of ARC results from ARC V1.2.1 is due to the Mute command not being reliably handled prior to the Upload. Nick says that ARC V1.2.2 is coming soon with a more robust procedure for making sure the D2 is properly Muted in such situations.


-----------------------------------


I can't imagine what Anthem might be doing in the V1.3.2 firmware that's specific to the AVM-50. The only thing I can think of is that there are some rolling changes being made in the production hardware, perhaps due to parts changes from their component providers, and they need to make sure the software is set up to properly detect any such new hardware configurations and do the right thing with all shipped versions of the hardware.


But maybe they'll surprise us with some actual feature changes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14053975
> 
> 
> This is an important comment. It is better to adjust the noise level before running the ARC you will significantly reduce the number of measure rejection. Using a sound meter set the noise level of the Anthem so that the noise level at your seating position is around 75db. You need to perform that measurement only once and than remember the value (in my case it is 12db) and use that value before stating any measurement session.



Another thing that's useful prior to running ARC is to set up any internal volume control in your subwoofer (or any other speaker with an internal amplifier) properly.


In Setup / Level Calibration, set the Noise Level to produce around 75dB from the LF speaker, measured with your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1). Then adjust the internal volume control of your subwoofer so that its test tone (from Setup / Level Calibration) is also producing around 75dB when its level setting in the Setup / Level Calibration menu is around 0dB. There is no need to be precise in these settings. A ball park setup is fine.


Then run ARC. ARC will determine the proper, and precise, level trim adjustments for each speaker, but the range of the trim adjustments is limited to +/- 10dB. So by adjusting the subwoofer's internal volume control as described, prior to doing the ARC measurements, you make sure that it can be level trimmed by ARC within that limit.


If your main speakers have different efficiencies (more or less volume produced given the same audio input voltage), then it also doesn't hurt to do a quick check with your SPL meter of ALL the level trims prior to running ARC just to make sure you can get all of your speakers to roughly the same SPL level (e.g., 75dB) within the limits of the available level trim controls. There's no need to be precise in this test. You are just making sure that all speakers are within the range that the level adjustment control can handle BEFORE you run ARC. ARC will replace any of these test level settings with the correct level settings when you Upload the ARC results.


Then after Uploading ARC results, go into Setup / Level Calibration and double-check the speaker level settings ARC settled on. Make sure that none of them are pegged at the limit (+/- 10dB). If any are, think about whether you can get the speakers more in balance by adjusting the internal volume settings of any powered speakers, and then run the ARC measurements again.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14053928
> 
> 
> bob: many thanks for the info. i will move forward (when arc arrives)
> 
> re: sound issues. i have a room mode (standing wave in the 200 h range. sitting down, all is well. stand up, and the tooth fillings are vibrating. i was reading that bass traps help in this regard, but, being old, and a skeptic, this could be smoke & mirrors. that was the basis of my question . will arc filter (correct) out this type of modal issue?



This is precisely the sort of thing ARC is meant to handle. The room modes you are hearing should also be varying from seating position to seating position. The multiple mic locations you use during the ARC measurement process allow it to hear such variations, and it uses the data from all the mic positions to distinguish the room modes from the inherent speaker performance (which doesn't vary by location except for treble directionality at the higher frequencies, and some overall volume difference if the mic is closer or further from a speaker).


By the way, you should set all of the ARC mic positions at SEATED ear height. Even though you are personally experiencing the room mode between seated and standing, do all of the ARC measurements at seated ear height so that ARC gets the same directional treble response from the tweeters of all your speakers.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

answers my questions . again, many thanks.

walt


----------



## audioNeil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/14011505
> 
> 
> My solution is therefore to purchase a high quality 2-channel preamp for music only and connect the C-5xe directly to the preamp. The preamp must also have a bypass to channel the mains from my D2 out to the premap and onto my power amps for movies. I've found the perfect solution...



I've done exactly that with my D1, and my stereo sources (turntable and CD). I run them through a 3-input Placette passive preamp, where one input has been turned into a bypass (by Placette). The sound is amazing -- far better than going through the D1 (no offence to D1 or D2 fans).


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioNeil* /forum/post/14056768
> 
> 
> I've done exactly that with my D1, and my stereo sources (turntable and CD). I run them through a 3-input Placette passive preamp, where one input has been turned into a bypass (by Placette). The sound is amazing -- far better than going through the D1 (no offence to D1 or D2 fans).



Cool.










I also do it similarly with my AVM50. I use a 3-input balanced passive Placette with one input configured for pass-thru.

I agree with your assessment as well.


----------



## AnthemAVM

Sorry if this has been covered before but has anyone used an RTI remote with the D2 via RS232, and if so do you have the file for mapping?


Thanks


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioNeil* /forum/post/14056768
> 
> 
> I've done exactly that with my D1, and my stereo sources (turntable and CD). I run them through a 3-input Placette passive preamp, where one input has been turned into a bypass (by Placette). The sound is amazing -- far better than going through the D1 (no offence to D1 or D2 fans).



Interesting observations. Have you tried a "blind" test to see if you could reliably tell the difference in preamps? I also use a separate preamp (ATC SCA2). Unfortunately it doesn't have ht bypass so I have to put a sticky note at the calibrated bypass volume level. I haven't done a comparison test with this preamp, but the Anthem was comparable to my old Krell KRC-HR when comparative testing was done. There were subtle differences but I wouldn't say "far better".


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14057549
> 
> 
> Interesting observations. Have you tried a "blind" test to see if you could reliably tell the difference in preamps? I also use a separate preamp (ATC SCA2). Unfortunately it doesn't have ht bypass so I have to put a sticky note at the calibrated bypass volume level. I haven't done a comparison test with this preamp, but the Anthem was comparable to my old Krell KRC-HR when comparative testing was done. There were subtle differences but I wouldn't say "far better".



Bogg, in my case I've added the new Ayre KX-R and yes, the difference in sound is definitely far better when compared to using my D2 as a preamp for music.


The benefit of adding a 2-ch preamp is IMO dependent on the quality of the DACs in the source and the quality of the preamp. Both have to be superior to the high standard already present in the D2. For instance, while waiting for delivery of my KX-R, I had the (lower priced) Ayre K-5xe in my system on loan. The K-5xe preamp provided only a slightly improved/better (i.e. more accurate) 2-ch sound compared to the D2, but not nearly as evident and wonderful as that produced by the KX-R.


That said, for both multichannel movie soundtracks and video processing, it's difficult if not impossible to beat the quality and features of the D2 in its price range. I mean, I *could* consider buying three high quality 2-ch preamps for movies and an external video processor, but.....










Peter


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14053975
> 
> 
> This is an important comment. It is better to adjust the noise level before running the ARC you will significantly reduce the number of measure rejection. Using a sound meter set the noise level of the Anthem so that the noise level at your seating position is around 75db. You need to perform that measurement only once and than remember the value (in my case it is 12db) and use that value before stating any measurement session.



I had to do this before ARC would successfully complete the measurement phase. IT was a bit frustrating until I went looking through the D2's menus and found the answer. FWIW, I posted on this some time back. In a way I'm glad I'm not the only that had to do this.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/14058142
> 
> 
> Bogg, in my case I've added the new Ayre KX-R and yes, the difference in sound is definitely far better when compared to using my D2 as a preamp for music.
> 
> 
> The benefit of adding a 2-ch preamp is IMO dependent on the quality of the DACs in the source and the quality of the preamp. Both have to be superior to the high standard already present in the D2. For instance, while waiting for delivery of my KX-R, I had the (lower priced) Ayre K-5xe in my system on loan. The K-5xe preamp provided only a slightly improved/better (i.e. more accurate) 2-ch sound compared to the D2, but not nearly as evident and wonderful as that produced by the KX-R.
> 
> 
> That said, for both multichannel movie soundtracks and video processing, it's difficult if not impossible to beat the quality and features of the D2 in its price range. I mean, I *could* consider buying three high quality 2-ch preamps for movies and an external video processor, but.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Peter



Just curious. How much is the Ayre KX-R pre-amp?


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/14058474
> 
> 
> Just curious. How much is the Ayre KX-R pre-amp?



Point taken Milt....at over double the price of the D2 it had _better_ provide more accurate sound


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14057445
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been covered before but has anyone used an RTI remote with the D2 via RS232, and if so do you have the file for mapping?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I use a T4, which works very well with the D2. I do not have the file for mapping - sorry (since RTI does not allow end-user programming, I don't see how to even get it - of course if you have a copy of the TheaterTouch software . . . ) .


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/14059031
> 
> 
> Point taken Milt....at over double the price of the D2 it had _better_ provide more accurate sound



It's also a gorgeous unit. Not that it's looks affect the sound, but it sure helps justify the $$$$


----------



## Bob Pariseau

After more time spent watching Blu-Ray, I believe I've decided that I prefer *ALL* of the THX processing turned off in the D2 when listening to raw PCM, TrueHD or DTS-HD MA tracks. I.e., not just turning off the re-equalization portion of THX.


I suspect that the "Timbre Matching" portion of the THX post processing is the thing I'm hearing that I don't like. See Section 4.8.6 of the Manual.


That means I use THX now only for DD 5.1 movies and stereo audio movies (TV or standard DVD).

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/14059031
> 
> 
> Point taken Milt....at over double the price of the D2 it had _better_ provide more accurate sound





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14059673
> 
> 
> It's also a gorgeous unit. Not that it's looks affect the sound, but it sure helps justify the $$$$



Uppa, I'm glad you took my post in the intended spirit.

The reason I knew the price was that the dealer I got my ARC from carries Ayre gear. When I picked up the ARC kit, I listened to their Ayre system, Ayre CD, pre-amp and monoblocs driving Wilson X2 whatevers.

Very nice sound indeed.


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14057445
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been covered before but has anyone used an RTI remote with the D2 via RS232, and if so do you have the file for mapping?
> 
> 
> Thanks




I am using RTI and remote (T4) and Touchpanel (K4,K3) via RS232. Works well. What are you looking for in terms of a mapping file?? RTI has all of the RS232 commands in excel format on thier website for download. Is this what you are after? Or are you asking for an RTI file with all of the anthem specific RS232 commands pre-programmed? Mine are all loaded as system macros on and RP6 along with all of the others, so it isn't very clean.


As for the command set, it is pretty extensive. I've mentioned this in the thead before...there is even a command the lets you display custom text on the OSD---ie "doorbell ringing", "motion in basement" etc. if you want to. Pretty cool.


----------



## Axatax




> Quote:
> I think the D2 is actually seen as a sink and therefore will process the audio as if it had an HDCP TV attached. It will however not pass on the sigal (video) on to a non HDCP TV. I might be absolutely wrong, but I thought this is the way it worked.



Just want to say this arrangement seems to be working perfectly so far. Thanks to everyone who offered advice!


----------



## bgrounds

How do you get the new version of ARC? I have access to the password protected site and I see the D2 upgrade to 1.32 but no ARC files.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/14064204
> 
> 
> How do you get the new version of ARC. I have access to the password protected site and I see the D2 upgrade to 1.32 but no ARC files.



One is on Link 1, the other on Link 7. I forget which.


----------



## bgrounds

Link 7, thx!


----------



## bgrounds

Failed to switch to 115200 kbs


Is the message I receive when I try to upgrade to v1.32. This is the first problem I've ever had when trying to upgrade anything with the D2.


Any ideas?


----------



## seismo

Try 19200, the default value.


----------



## bgrounds

I don't see the option to change it... I think that only applies to the "live video settings"...


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14062248
> 
> 
> I am using RTI and remote (T4) and Touchpanel (K4,K3) via RS232. Works well. What are you looking for in terms of a mapping file?? RTI has all of the RS232 commands in excel format on thier website for download. Is this what you are after? Or are you asking for an RTI file with all of the anthem specific RS232 commands pre-programmed? Mine are all loaded as system macros on and RP6 along with all of the others, so it isn't very clean.
> 
> 
> As for the command set, it is pretty extensive. I've mentioned this in the thead before...there is even a command the lets you display custom text on the OSD---ie "doorbell ringing", "motion in basement" etc. if you want to. Pretty cool.



Thanks, the programer is coming over Thursday night, not sure if he was able to get what he need.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/14064204
> 
> 
> How do you get the new version of ARC? I have access to the password protected site and I see the D2 upgrade to 1.32 but no ARC files.



ARC V1.2.1 is in the "test" folder -- Link 7.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/14064748
> 
> 
> Failed to switch to 115200 kbs
> 
> 
> Is the message I receive when I try to upgrade to v1.32. This is the first problem I've ever had when trying to upgrade anything with the D2.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



Check to see if you have the latest drivers for you serial connection, and that those drivers are "Windows Certified".

--Bob


----------



## bgrounds

I found the new version of ARC but before I loaded it I wanted to upgrade to v1.32 and it gave me the "Failed to switch to 115200 kbs" I tried to reload v1.31 and it gives me the same message. I can still get a picture but no sound from any input. The UI is now extremely slow too.


----------



## bgrounds

Got the latest and greatest...


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/14064204
> 
> 
> How do you get the new version of ARC? I have access to the password protected site and I see the D2 upgrade to 1.32 but no ARC files.




Click on LINK7 at the upper right of the page.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Nick warned me not to go to 1.32 yet when I got the latest ARC, he said there were still some issues with it.


----------



## MAX_1970

Have an issue with 1.31; when upscaling DVD (HDMI out at 480/576p or component out at 480/576i) at 1080p/50/60 I can get the sound but not the picture. It works at 1080i/50/60. Not a problem of the cable (certified up to 14,9Gbs); Nick said it may be an HDCP error.


Any idea?


Max


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MAX_1970* /forum/post/14066247
> 
> 
> Have an issue with 1.31; when upscaling DVD (HDMI out at 480/576p or component out at 480/576i) at 1080p/50/60 I can get the sound but not the picture. It works at 1080i/50/60. Not a problem of the cable (certified up to 14,9Gbs); Nick said it may be an HDCP error.
> 
> 
> Any idea?
> 
> 
> Max



There are both high bandwidth and low bandwidth signals that have to pass on the HDMI cables for the HDMI handshake and the HDCP copy protection stuff to work, and they can fail separately for different flaws in the cable design or manufacture. If things work fine for 1080i but not for 1080p, then it is definitely worth a shot to replace both the input and output HDMI cables just to see.


Also, double check that your display is actually able to handle 1080p/50 or 1080p/60 as a valid input resolution. Many displays won't take those signals -- even some that WILL take 1080p/24 (which is actually lower bandwidth than 1080i/60).


You can use the Anthem's internally generated test patterns (Video Source Adjust / Patterns menu) to check the output side of the Anthem independent of any input source device.

--Bob


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/14064940
> 
> 
> I don't see the option to change it... I think that only applies to the "live video settings"...



You are right, I can't see it either. Maybe you should talk to Nick and let everyone know his answer.


----------



## MAX_1970

Bob thanks for your help (you never sleep???)


It's not the cable (Monster M1000) I have checked it nor the projector that handles 1080p/24/50/60 (Cineversum Blackwing 3=JVC DILA RS2): Nick suggested to use the DVD scaler at 1080p/50 and connect it straight to the projector; got a perfect 1080p/50 picture. Tried also a component connection via the Denon DVD and PS3.


Enabling/disabling HDMI repeater did not work. There must be some bug with the latest software.


Max


----------



## bgrounds

Nick doesn't know - but he was adament about not using v1.32 unless there was some other issue that needed to be fixed.


His recommendation was to try a different computer; if that doesn't work, use the flash eraser and start over!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/14067438
> 
> 
> Nick doesn't know - but he was adament about not using v1.32 unless there was some other issue that needed to be fixed.
> 
> 
> His recommendation was to try a different computer; if that doesn't work, use the flash eraser and start over!



My understanding is that 1.32 is a Alfa software not even a Beta. There is always a risk when using Alpha software.


----------



## bgrounds

Live and learn... And a warning to those that were thinking about it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Got my "new" 80GB PS3 today after elbowing a few people out of the way.


The specifications chart that comes with it says it consumes 380W of power. The same chart for the 40GB PS3 says it consumes 280W of power. The implication is that Sony decided to use the older, larger, hotter-running, processing chips in this "new" 80GB unit, just as in the version they discontinued back in January -- which means loud fan noise is more likely. More news later....


----------------------------------------------


Meanwhile, my Velodyne DD-15 subwoofer just decided to fry itself. Got to get its amp swapped out (fortunately still under warranty).


Now I get to learn how to disassemble one of these beasts.

--Bob


----------



## Axatax




> Quote:
> The specifications chart that comes with it says it consumes 380W of power.



Wow. I think my CRT PJ uses slightly under 600W.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This is probably where its "glowing reviews" come from...

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14067911
> 
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, my Velodyne DD-15 subwoofer just decided to fry itself. Got to get its amp swapped out (fortunately still under warranty).
> 
> 
> Now I get to learn how to disassemble one of these beasts.
> 
> --Bob




Did you get any comments or idea on why it fry?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14068452
> 
> 
> Did you get any comments or idea on why it fry?



Not really. It looks like the computer inside the Velodyne is crashing and rebooting repeatedly. It won't come alive long enough to do a reset. It may have a marginal power supply or some other component failed. That's what warranties are for, of course.


I had a similar situation back when I got this subwoofer but the problem vanished all on its own for no explained reason, and the subwoofer has been working perfectly for quite some time.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Preliminary testing of the "new" 80GB PS3 in my setup is not promising. The fan hasn't kicked into high gear yet, but the fan level you DO get while playing Blu-Ray discs is clearly audible out the back of the console cabinet and bouncing off the wall behind the cabinet.


In addition, whereas the 40GB PS3 -- which is dead silent while playing Blu-Ray discs -- heated up the side walls of that cabinet space by 5 degrees above ambient and the ceiling of that space by 10 degrees above ambient, the "new" 80GB PS3 is heating the side walls by 10-12 degrees and the ceiling by all of 20 degrees.


Pretty soon I expect I'll be able to warm burritos in there.


I'll give it more testing, but I suspect the "new" 80GB PS3 is indeed using the old, hot, noisy guts of the "old" 80GB PS3. And that means it is going back.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14069464
> 
> 
> Preliminary testing of the "new" 80GB PS3 in my setup is not promising. The fan hasn't kicked into high gear yet, but the fan level you DO get while playing Blu-Ray discs is clearly audible out the back of the console cabinet and bouncing off the wall behind the cabinet.
> 
> 
> In addition, whereas the 40GB PS3 -- which is dead silent while playing Blu-Ray discs -- heated up the side walls of that cabinet space by 5 degrees above ambient and the ceiling of that space by 10 degrees above ambient, the "new" 80GB PS3 is heating the side walls by 10-12 degrees and the ceiling by all of 20 degrees.
> 
> 
> Pretty soon I expect I'll be able to warm burritos in there.
> 
> 
> I'll give it more testing, but I suspect the "new" 80GB PS3 is indeed using the old, hot, noisy guts of the "old" 80GB PS3. And that means it is going back.
> 
> --Bob



It is surprising that they used the OLD chip - But I will bet MONEY

both the 40GB and the 80GB drive are the same wattage.


I love my whisper quiet 40Gb PS3.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14069764
> 
> 
> It is surprising that they used the OLD chip - But I will bet MONEY
> 
> both the 40GB and the 80GB drive are the same wattage.
> 
> 
> I love my whisper quiet 40Gb PS3.



Yeah, the drive is not the difference. And there's no way even maximum usage of the memory card sockets and the two additional USB ports could result in an additional 100W of power use.


It's got to be the older, hotter chips. And perhaps a bigger fan.


Quite disappointing really. Very shortsighted of Sony to make their top end Blu-Ray player be too noisy for normal home theater use during this key summer and fall Blu-Ray selling season.


At least it reinforces my prejudice against Sony products. Fortunately the 40GB PS3 appears to be a fluke -- they failed to screw it up!









--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14069850
> 
> 
> Fortunately the 40GB PS3 appears to be a fluke -- they failed to screw it up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



And at $299 it is the BARGAIN of the YEAR.


----------



## xtrips

I am running two separate systems, interconnected. One for stereo, high-end, and one for home-theater.

The interconnection comes between the HT processor and the stereo preamp of my stereo system.

So the left and right channel output from my processor feed the left and right input of my pre-amp.

I never really liked this solution but that's the compromise I opted for.


Now, I just bought a new processor, I am getting it in a few days. An Anthem Statement D2 processor.

My stereo preamp is an Electrocompaniet EC 4.8.


The Anthem has balanced output that could feed my 2 Electrocompaniet monoblock power amps AW180.


So my question is, would you give up the 2 separate systems concept for the sake of comfort?

What with hi-fi? Do you think I have much to worry about, getting rid of the high-end stereo preamp, or is it just hype?


Thank you for reading my long story.


----------



## cpcat

Call Electrocompaniet and see it they can configure one of its inputs as "Home Theater Bypass". Second best is to hook the L/R fronts from the D2 to the EC and set the volume control on the EC preamp to "unity gain" when listening to HT. Keep the preamp in the system.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14068452
> 
> 
> Did you get any comments or idea on why it fry?



Got an update on this: After talking to the subwoofer repair guy at Velodyne he thinks he knows precisely what's going on (based on the error light sequence I'm getting). He says the particular production model of the amp in my DD15 subwoofer has a known problem where an internal connector within the amp can vibrate loose over time. They've since rev'ed the design to hard-wire that connection.


So I get to disassemble the amp from the subwoofer and ship it off to them and they will ship a replacement amp of the new design to me so that the two units cross in shipment. I'm out of pocket for the shipment to them, but the rest is warranty. And at least I don't have to ship the entire subwoofer!


So my task for tonight is to absorb the 11 page manufacturing document they sent to me on how to install the amp!


-----------------------------------


On another off-topic topic, I've decided to call my "new" 80GB PS3, "The Brave Little Toaster!" I've been playing Blu-Ray continuously and it hasn't kicked into highest fan mode, but the continuous running of the medium fan mode is louder than I want, and the thing really is throwing off a bunch of heat.


Anyway, it'll come out of the console tonight and back to the store with it -- and the 40GB PS3 goes back in so I can once again have Silent Movies. I'm sure somebody will be delighted to buy an open-box return from that store given the scalping going on with these right now.

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14070958
> 
> 
> I am running two separate systems, interconnected. One for stereo, high-end, and one for home-theater.
> 
> The interconnection comes between the HT processor and the stereo preamp of my stereo system.
> 
> So the left and right channel output from my processor feed the left and right input of my pre-amp.
> 
> I never really liked this solution but that's the compromise I opted for.
> 
> 
> Now, I just bought a new processor, I am getting it in a few days. An Anthem Statement D2 processor.
> 
> My stereo preamp is an Electrocompaniet EC 4.8.
> 
> 
> The Anthem has balanced output that could feed my 2 Electrocompaniet monoblock power amps AW180.
> 
> 
> So my question is, would you give up the 2 separate systems concept for the sake of comfort?
> 
> What with hi-fi? Do you think I have much to worry about, getting rid of the high-end stereo preamp, or is it just hype?
> 
> 
> Thank you for reading my long story.




I have the D2 set up for high end audio and home theatre using seperate zones. I have no problem using the D2 as the preamp for both but some posters have mentioned better pre amps and i don't doubt this but it does come with the higher cost. the downfall of my setup is using ARC. It would be great if I could setup ARC to use the Movie setup for zone 1 and the music setup for zone 2 but I don't think this is possible. The setup would have to run through two sets of sweeps and an ability to assign the configurations to whatever zones you want. Still I'm pretty happy.


----------



## ninja12

The new ARC Software 1.2.2 is available on Anthem's public site with 1.31.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Good heads up! Here are the release notes. Notice that a few aspects of the improved, more robust Upload process require version V1.31c or later of the D2 firmware -- which is not yet up on the Anthem public download site. Also, this version V1.2.2 of ARC is expected to eliminate the possibility of loud pops going to the subwoofer during the Upload of ARC results:



> Quote:
> ANTHEM ROOM CORRECTION
> 
> 
> Extract contents of zip download to Desktop. The setup program will be in a Desktop folder called "arc_cd". Before clicking on setup.exe, add your two serialized files to the folder or see below for more info.
> 
> 
> Changes in v1.2 (requires v1.31 or later in D2):
> 
> 
> 1. Reduced noise gain - re-calculate then re-upload to get the benefits (no need to re-measure).
> 
> 
> 2. Improved crossover detection algorithms.
> 
> 
> 3. Increased upload reliability - speaker levels are verified during upload if D2 has v1.31c or later. All other settings are verified during the upload regardless of the version.
> 
> 
> 4. Increased detail in error messages if using v1.31c or later.
> 
> 
> 5. Added Erase function in advanced mode to clear ARC parameters in processor.
> 
> 
> 6. "Single rear" selection has been removed from targets menu. To configure a system as 6.1, select the single rear option in the 'select speakers to measure' dialog.
> 
> 
> 7. Added "Full range" speaker crossover option in advanced mode. If you select a speaker configuration that has no subwoofer then the fronts are forced to full range.
> 
> 
> 
> IF UPDATING FROM v1.0:
> 
> Significant changes were made to the measurement procedure. Re-measurement is highly recommended.
> 
> 
> 
> IMPORTANT:
> 
> With ARC v1.2 the Program Files folder is
> 
> 
> My Computer, Local Disk C:\\Program Files\\Anthem\\AnthemRoomCorrection
> 
> 
> instead of this one which was used with previous versions:
> 
> 
> My Computer, Local Disk C:\\ProgramFiles\\Anthem\\AnthemStatement\\AnthemRoomCorrect ion
> 
> 
> If you installed a prior version and do not have the CD at hand, be sure to either:
> 
> 
> - copy your serialized files into the extracted folder before double clicking on setup, or...
> 
> 
> - if the update has been installed and ARC says that microphone files cannot be found, move your serialized files from the old AnthemRoomCorrection folder to the new one.
> 
> 
> If you are updating from v1.2 to a later version, it is not necessary to relocate serialized files.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you're updating the processor from a version older than v1.29j, your video processing settings need to be backed up with Live Video Settings Editor before updating the processor.
> 
> 
> If the software installer asks you to program the serial number make sure the number on the chassis sticker, the one on the mic (first six digits on cal file), and the one you're entering match. You only get one chance!! If the wrong number is entered, the unit will have to come to the factory.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Anthem, Anthem Statement, AnthemLogic, Sonic Frontiers, and Paradigm are trademarks or registered trademarks of Paradigm Electronics Inc. Copyright Paradigm Electronics Inc. All rights reserved. The information contained herein may not be reproduced in whole or in part without our express written permission. We reserve the right to change specifications and/or features without notice as design improvements are incorporated.
> 
> 
> technical support:
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 905-362-0958 M-F 9:00 am - 5:30 pm ET



--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

D2 V1.32b is up on the Anthem password protected "test software" download page. There are no release notes for this version yet. As usual, you should not rush to use such test software releases unless advised to do so by Anthem tech support.


ARC V1.2.2, the version now up on the public download page, is also the version now up on the "test software" download page.


ETA: The Excel file documenting the RS-232 command set for the Anthems has also been updated as of yesterday. The new version is included in the ARC V1.2.2 stuff on the public download page. I haven't been tracking this command set closely enough to have any idea what was changed in the latest version.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14073223
> 
> 
> f the software installer asks you to program the serial number make sure the number on the chassis sticker, the one on the mic (first six digits on cal file), and the one you're entering match. You only get one chance!! If the wrong number is entered, the unit will have to come to the factory.



I would say that is *VERY UNFRIENDLY* software.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14071413
> 
> 
> Got an update on this: After talking to the subwoofer repair guy at Velodyne he thinks he knows precisely what's going on (based on the error light sequence I'm getting). He says the particular production model of the amp in my DD15 subwoofer has a known problem where an internal connector within the amp can vibrate loose over time. They've since rev'ed the design to hard-wire that connection.
> 
> 
> So I get to disassemble the amp from the subwoofer and ship it off to them and they will ship a replacement amp of the new design to me so that the two units cross in shipment. I'm out of pocket for the shipment to them, but the rest is warranty. And at least I don't have to ship the entire subwoofer!
> 
> 
> So my task for tonight is to absorb the 11 page manufacturing document they sent to me on how to install the amp!



This is interesting. Is there anything that should be done (maintenance wise) to prevent that from happening. What is the serial number of your unit? Good luck with the repair.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14073223
> 
> 
> Good heads up! Here are the release notes. Notice that a few aspects of the improved, more robust Upload process require version V1.31c or later of the D2 firmware -- which is not yet up on the Anthem public download site. Also, this version V1.2.2 of ARC is expected to eliminate the possibility of loud pops going to the subwoofer during the Upload of ARC results:
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Yes they improve the way the mute process is performed to ensure there is no poping during the upload. Version 1.32b is available and contain mostly cosmetic changes.


----------



## jayray

Anyone experience the following with 1.31c or 1.32?


1. fuzzy light blue background with white verticle lines in the setup menu.


2. While getting audio and video out of my AVM 50, the anthem says no video input and no sound coming in when I push the SELECT button on the remote. Has only happened once but was very weird.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14074576
> 
> 
> Anyone experience the following with 1.31c or 1.32?
> 
> 
> 1. fuzzy light blue background with white verticle lines in the setup menu.
> 
> 
> 2. While getting audio and video out of my AVM 50, the anthem says no video input and no sound coming in when I push the SELECT button on the remote. Has only happened once but was very weird.
> 
> 
> John



I've had an issue with horizontal interference lines and vertical instability of the image in the Setup menu (which is implemented as an internally generated S-video source) and in video from my normal S-video source devices when fed through the D2's scaler since installing V1.31. If you view any of the sources for long enough (about 15 minutes) the problem mostly goes away. And S-video "passed through" to the D2's Main S-video output (i.e., no scaling) has no problem. Anthem is still puzzling over this one. You should contact Anthem tech support with the details on what you are seeing and on your AVM-50 (serial #, when you bought it, etc.) as this may help them isolate what is happening here.


My assumption is that the portion of the software which detects the hardware configuration and handles S-video digitization correctly for the given hardware (when feeding S-video into the scaler) is not working right for all hardware configurations.


--------------------


The info displayed when pressing the Select key on the remote appears to sometimes gets its data "at the wrong time" -- i.e, in your case, before audio started playing -- and then doesn't realize it needs to update to the correct data. In the past, this has been rare and random (it's been going on since at least V1.06, although the usual report is that the wrong input video resolution is displayed). If you find a repeatable case please contact Anthem tech support with the details. Usually, just going back into the Select displays a 2nd time, or switching away from that input and back and then going into the Select displays, will cause those displays to pick up the right data. You can also get some of the same data from the Video Source Adjust / Info panel.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14074545
> 
> 
> This is interesting. Is there anything that should be done (maintenance wise) to prevent that from happening. What is the serial number of your unit? Good luck with the repair.



I don't think there is anything the user can do. The problem is, apparently, pretty rare, and the fix is internal to the subwoofer's amp circuits. Also, I don't know when they changed production to the new circuit design that doesn't have this problem. I got my DD15 in fall, 2006.


I'm wondering whether the loud pops I experience during my ARC V1.2.1 Upload were the thing that shook this connection loose -- although I suspect that is just coincidence since the subwoofer worked for days without problem after that incident.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14074315
> 
> 
> I would say that is *VERY UNFRIENDLY* software.



I'm not sure what would cause the ARC software to ask you to enter the serial #. In my case it was all handled automatically, and I suspect that's true for just about everyone or we'd be getting more comments like yours.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14075933
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what would cause the ARC software to ask you to enter the serial #. In my case it was all handled automatically, and I suspect that's true for just about everyone or we'd be getting more comments like yours.
> 
> --Bob



Same for me I am using the software since 6 months and never had to enter anything manually.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14075933
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what would cause the ARC software to ask you to enter the serial #. In my case it was all handled automatically, and I suspect that's true for just about everyone or we'd be getting more comments like yours.
> 
> --Bob



Yup. Even in the case where one changes the D2 for another D2, as I did, the ARC upload either doesn't work at all (as I found a few times) or it does (as I eventually succeeded with a bit of tweaking of the files).


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14073223
> 
> 
> Good heads up! Here are the release notes. Notice that a few aspects of the improved, more robust Upload process require version V1.31c or later of the D2 firmware -- which is not yet up on the Anthem public download site.
> 
> --Bob




Bob


When checking the public site or downloading the software posted there. How do you know what version it is ?


I do not recall they ever post the alpha letter after the version number unless I missed it.


----------



## dmorse4765

I am running 1.31 on the D2. I tried installing Arc last night and keep getting error message of "Can't find D2". I am using a Mac Mini with bootcamp and XP, also the keyspan adapter with the latest updated software. I emailed Nick and he advised me to install Arc 1.2.2. I have also swapped both cables, I used the same setup in April to install 1.31 with no problems. Any one else experience this problem. Also I get the same error message when I use the live video settings. I emailed Nick again but have not heard back yet.


Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/14078106
> 
> 
> I am running 1.31 on the D2. I tried installing Arc last night and keep getting error message of "Can't find D2". I am using a Mac Mini with bootcamp and XP, also the keyspan adapter with the latest updated software. I emailed Nick and he advised me to install Arc 1.2.2. I have also swapped both cables, I used the same setup in April to install 1.31 with no problems. Any one else experience this problem. Also I get the same error message when I use the live video settings. I emailed Nick again but have not heard back yet.
> 
> 
> Dick



Are you using other USB devices such as a USB mouse? Try switching to a wireless mouse.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765

I will try that Bob. The wireless mouse I usually use for the Mac will not work on XP for some odd reason, so I was using a corded usb mouse. Thanks for the tip, will try that as soon as possible.


dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/14076860
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> When checking the public site or downloading the software posted there. How do you know what version it is ?
> 
> 
> I do not recall they ever post the alpha letter after the version number unless I missed it.



Generally the versions posted on the public site are not the "lettered" versions. I.e., the "lettered" versions are test software versions and usually show up only on the password protected download site.


The final "lettered" version from the test site, e.g., V1.31x, is usually revved up to the next numbered version, e.g., V1.32, before it is posted on the public download page.


So the file name you see on the public download page is really showing you the version. There's not a secret "letter" as well.


So for example, the public page has D2 V1.31 on it at the moment. That really is the original V1.31 and not V1.31c or later. I know this is true because I've been saving older versions and I can compare the last modified dates and files sizes.


Because ARC is changing rather rapidly at the moment, they are posting minor fix versions on the public site, and using a 3 number versioning -- e.g. the version currently on the public download page is V1.2.2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/14078360
> 
> 
> I will try that Bob. The wireless mouse I usually use for the Mac will not work on XP for some odd reason, so I was using a corded usb mouse. Thanks for the tip, will try that as soon as possible.
> 
> 
> dick



With ARC V1.1, I also found that my Uploads seemed to work more reliably if I unplugged the ARC USB microphone before doing the Upload.


ARC V1.2.1 (and now ARC V1.2.2) are likely better at this. With ARC V1.2.1 I didn't have to unplug the microphone and the Upload worked fine. But I haven't had as serious an issue as ARC not being able to find the D2 in the first place.


----------------------------------


Also make sure Windows and the USB/Serial adapter driver have assigned the "serial port" of that adapter as something in the range COM1 to COM6. ARC can't find the serial port outside that range.


ETA: You need to run the Windows XP BlueTooth setup wizard to let XP find and pair with the wireless mouse (and/or keyboard). The pairing that MAC OS X uses doesn't automatically carry over to the Bootcamp / Windows XP environment.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14078343
> 
> 
> Are you using other USB devices such as a USB mouse? Try switching to a wireless mouse.
> 
> --Bob



That was a very sensible tip however I get the same results as before. (the mouse was not paired with XP)


dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/14078582
> 
> 
> That was a very sensible tip however I get the same results as before. (the mouse was not paired with XP)
> 
> 
> dick



Check the hardware list in Device Manager under USB devices (for the USB/Serial adapter) and Serial ports and see if any of the lines is showing a problem icon.


You might also want to try deleting the driver for the USB/Serial adapter and re-installing the latest version from their web site.


---------------------------------------


Also I believe there was some buzz that the latest service pack for Windows XP broke the BootCamp environment on the Mac. I haven't been following that story closely, but if you've installed that XP service pack, you might want to go over the Apple Support forums and look for some BootCamp threads related to that to see if this is related, and if they know of any workarounds.


In my case, I've held off applying that XP service pack.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765

I did check device manager and there were no problems. I also reinstalled the drivers for the keyspan. I never installed any XP service packs in the last year. Hopefully Nick can come up with something. I have never been able to use the live video settings for the same error. However I have never had any problems installing or upgrading to the next version except for the version with the messed up OKI boot loader. Thanks for all the suggestions. Guess what I will be doing this weekend.


dick


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/14079012
> 
> 
> I did check device manager and there were no problems. I also reinstalled the drivers for the keyspan. I never installed any XP service packs in the last year. Hopefully Nick can come up with something. I have never been able to use the live video settings for the same error. However I have never had any problems installing or upgrading to the next version except for the version with the messed up OKI boot loader. Thanks for all the suggestions. Guess what I will be doing this weekend.
> 
> 
> dick



Don't forget to check that your serial port is between 1 and 6 otherwise the anthem software does not probe it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I got an email clarification from Nick at Anthem: The THX Ultra 2 Subwoofer and the Boundary Gain Compensation settings -- both found in the Room Resonance Filter menu of Setup / Speaker Configuration -- are bypassed by ARC, both during ARC measurements and during normal operation after uploading ARC results and turning Room EQ ON for your source devices. It doesn't matter how you set them presuming all your sources have Room EQ = ON. ARC's correction at the lowest bass frequencies addresses the need for any sort of "one size fits all" Boundary Gain Compensation automatically, and in a manner much more tuned to the particulars of each setup.


Nick also says that although the ARC charts cut off at 20Hz at the low end, it actually measures and calculates down to 5HZ. However there's usually enough noise in the data below 20Hz that this doesn't really amount to much practical difference.


So DRHANKZ, I'm afraid ARC won't do much to improve the quality of "audio" from your 1Hz, "low rider", floor thumpers.









--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14081269
> 
> 
> So DRHANKZ, I'm afraid ARC won't do much to improve the quality of "audio" from your 1Hz, "low rider", floor thumpers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



No but going down to 5Hz is really a GOOD THING


----------



## AV-NUT-99

Sorry to come into the middle of this post, but is there any reason my laptop can see the D2 for the video savings editor, but not for the upgarde?


I am in panic mode now due to friends coming over for a movie this evening. I was running v 1.10, aqnd am now trying to upgrade to V 1.31. I have followed all the upgrade tips and instuctions in this thread, but when I try to run the upgrade, it can't find the D2.


Thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV-NUT-99* /forum/post/14083307
> 
> 
> Sorry to come into the middle of this post, but is there any reason my laptop can see the D2 for the video savings editor, but not for the upgarde?
> 
> 
> I am in panic mode now due to friends coming over for a movie this evening. I was running v 1.10, aqnd am now trying to upgrade to V 1.31. I have followed all the upgrade tips and instuctions in this thread, but when I try to run the upgrade, it can't find the D2.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



Make sure the serial port you are using is in the range COM1 to COM6. If you are using a USB/Serial adapter there will be a setting for this.


If you are using a USB/Serial adapter, make sure you have the latest driver installed from the web site of the manufacturer of that adapter. If Windows complains that the adapter and its driver are not Windows Certified, then you will need to switch to a different adapter.


Also, try disconnecting any other USB devices that might be attached to your computer. Use a wireless mouse/keyboard for example.


If none of that works for you, your only recourse is to try it with a different computer. Anthem has discovered that the Windows software bundled with some computers has been changed from the normal Windows release and it screws up the way they are trying to use the serial port.


It would be wise to put off a major upgrade like this until AFTER your friends have left. For one thing, you may very well discover you need to re-adjust your video level settings for best video after going from V1.10 to V1.31, and you'll want time to sit down and verify that all of your Setup and Video Source Adjust menu settings are correct after the upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## AV-NUT-99

Bob,


I had tried all of what you had mentioned, except a different computer. I guess I will try my old desk top which had worked when I upgrded to version 1.10, kind of a pain, but I will let you know how I make out.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just verified that listening to HDMI audio while my HDMI display is turned off works in the D2 V1.32b software (even though there is no longer an HDMI Repeater = YES/NO setting option available in the Setup menu), although it still has the bug (apparently introduced in V1.31) such that the display has to be turned off BEFORE you switch to that input in the Anthem.


If you turn off the display while already on that Anthem input, the audio will be muted. Just switch to a different Anthem input and back and the audio will work again.


Tested with a PS3 (V2.35) streaming audio via MediaLink from a Mac.


Also tested with a Pioneer Elite 59avi.


----------------------------


Note: There is a peculiarity of the PS3 software that when you play stereo content via HDMI LPCM to the Anthem, the PS3 sends it out as a 5.1 channel PCM signal -- even though only the LF and RF channels have any audio in them. The problem is that since the Anthem thinks it is getting a real 5.1 audio stream, the Anthem won't let you turn on any of the audio surround modes for raising 2.0 audio to 5.1 or 7.1 speaker output.


This is a well-known issue with the PS3, and people are already badgering Sony to fix this.


The PS3 will also only send audio out of just one of HDMI and Optical Digital at a time, so you can't simply use Optical Digital as a workaround for this.

--Bob


----------



## AV-NUT-99

Bob,


I dragged my old desktop into the theater, hooked everything up and the downgrade software found the D2 just fine. Download is now in process. I would think that if I reload my previous settings, I should be back in business when I am done. I did not really have anything fancy set up in the video section. Is there something more with the new FW version that I should be concerned with? I will certainly explore further options and changes, but for now, will just concentrate on getting back to my "normal" operating mode.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV-NUT-99* /forum/post/14083522
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I dragged my old desktop into the theater, hooked everything up and the downgrade software found the D2 just fine. Download is now in process. I would think that if I reload my previous settings, I should be back in business when I am done. I did not really have anything fancy set up in the video section. Is there something more with the new FW version that I should be concerned with? I will certainly explore further options and changes, but for now, will just concentrate on getting back to my "normal" operating mode.



Just follow the install instructions that are displayed when you start up the V1.31 installer.


The key thing is to Save your Setup settings using the Save User Settings item in the Setup menu and also to Get and Save your Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file using the Live Video Settings Editor that comes with the V1.31 install kit. Do *NOT* use an older version of Live Video Settings Editor for this.


The install process for V1.31 mandates that you do a Reload Factory Defaults in the Anthem Setup menu before doing the install.


After the install you can restore your Setup menu settings by doing a Reload Saved User Settings from the stuff you saved before the install. However the Video Source Adjust menu settings will not survive the install that way. Instead you must reload them from the file you saved to your PC, again using the Live Video Settings Editor that comes with the V1.31 install kit.


After restoring your prior settings this way, power off the Anthem, power it on again, wait 30 seconds, and power it off again. Apparently this is necessary to insure the older format settings are properly configured for the new software. These special procedures (using the PC file and the 30 second power cycle) are necessary if upgrading from 1.29j or older to V1.31 or newer. Once you have V1.31 installed, you don't need to do this again for further V1.31x or V1.32x installs -- although there's no harm in doing it anyway.


Also remember that is is vitally important to insure you have NO POWERED HDMI CONNECTIONS during the software install!


Many HDMI sources and displays power their HDMI sockets even though the device appears to be turned off. Since HDMI connectors are delicate, rather than disconnecting the cables what I recommend is that you disconnect wall power from all the stuff in your system except for the Anthem and the computer you are using to perform the install.


---------------------------------------


After completing the install and reloading your old settings as described above, it is still wise to browse through your Setup and Video Source Adjust menu settings to double check that everything looks to be as you wanted it, and to correct any issues you spot.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

When using headphones in the AVM50/D2, how do you mute the main speakers from playing at the same time?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14085045
> 
> 
> When using headphones in the AVM50/D2, how do you mute the main speakers from playing at the same time?



Setup / Volumes and Path names / Hphone Mute Spk = YES. The main speakers will be muted automatically whenever a headphone is plugged in.


There are some other useful, headphone related settings in that same menu such as setting the power-on volume for the headphone jack.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14078343
> 
> 
> Are you using other USB devices such as a USB mouse? Try switching to a wireless mouse.
> 
> --Bob



Well Bob, sometimes we assume something is wrong with equipment without checking the nuts and bolts first. In this case I am the nut. After about 4 hours trying to get my Keyspan to recognize the D2 I gave up and was using many foul words. I broke down and called my ex-wife that has a Dell desktop with a serial port. Guess what,it would not recognize the D2 either. I started typing a note to you to say "what next" then it hit me.

Triggers/IR/RS232

RS232=Off

If you can stop laughing long enough you may want to tell anyone else that can't get the Keyspan to recognize their D2. I have no idea how or when it got to the off position, probably one day when I was playing around in the menu. Anyway, the entire process took abut 20 or 30 minutes and the sound is now like silk. Next I have to tell Nick this. Thanks for all your suggestions, it was just one loose nut.


Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm glad you got it working!


It's good to remind folks of the fundamental debugging step when things go strange: Save User Settings, Reload Factory Defaults, and see if it still fails.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

Any thought of adding to the first post what USB to RS232 everyone is buying to do the ARC?


Michael


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14087316
> 
> 
> Any thought of adding to the first post what USB to RS232 everyone is buying to do the ARC?
> 
> 
> Michael



I have been using an IOGear adapter from WalMart. So far, it has worked flawlessly with the D2, Integra, Audyssey and Meridian devices.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Keyspan USA-19HS is a good choice, and many posters in this thread are using it:

http://www.keyspan.com/products/usa19hs/ 


Be sure to get the latest driver from their Downloads link.


IoGear and Belkin also make good adapters.

--Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14087316
> 
> 
> Any thought of adding to the first post what USB to RS232 everyone is buying to do the ARC?
> 
> 
> Michael



the radio shack one I bought works fine.


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

Bob P, is there any way to cut and paste the results graph from arc, I cant seem to copy it.


thanks, bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/14088011
> 
> 
> Bob P, is there any way to cut and paste the results graph from arc, I cant seem to copy it.
> 
> 
> thanks, bob



This is what I do - While displaying the graphs from the mesurements/calculation, press the PrintScreen key once - don't expect to see anything happening apart from the screen givig a quick 'wink'. Then open up Irfanview and do a Edit/Paste. I can then do any editing I wish before making a SaveAs in the format chosen. I usually choose .jpg format.


I believe you can also use MSWord or Paint or whatever is available in your PC to paste to and save. With Irfanview, I can easily cut the relevant parts out of the 2 separate screens saved and join them up together to form a nice pic with the right size for posting.


That simple. Have fun.










Ben


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

thanks, Ill give it a try


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is also a variant of PrintScreen (Option-PrintScreen or some such -- check you Windows Help as I forget) which will capture only the contents of the current Window instead of the entire screen. Which means there will be no editing you need to do except perhaps to convert to JPEG to get the file size down, which you can do in the Paint application bundled with Windows.


Then, if you like, go to photobucket.com and open up a free image hosting account. Upload your JPEG images to that account. Photobucket will provide an "IMG" string for each such image file which includes the address of that image on the photobucket server. Copy and Paste that IMG string into your posts here, and when people view the posts here the image will be served up from the photobucket and will display here in the middle of your post (i.e., without people having to click on a link to bring up the image).


---------------------------


Go back to some of the posts at the beginning of April which show the charts embedded in the post that way and "quote" the post to see what the text looks like with the "IMG" strings in place.

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645

It's Alt-PrintScreen


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14066711
> 
> 
> You are right, I can't see it either. Maybe you should talk to Nick and let everyone know his answer.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/14064748
> 
> 
> Failed to switch to 115200 kbs
> 
> 
> Is the message I receive when I try to upgrade to v1.32. This is the first problem I've ever had when trying to upgrade anything with the D2.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



I found this while looking for something else in the D2 operation manual (page 41).


If you go to section 3.11 under menu 11-f: Baud rate: 19200, you will see that the baud rate speed is adjustable. On the next page in the manual, there is this:


"The baud rate (adjustable from 1200 to 115200 bps) and flow control (RTS,CTS and None), allow configuration of the serial port communication parameters"


Hope this help.


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




----------



## ultra 150 pilot

I noticed some popping noise after upgrading from version 1.1 to 1.31 and the arc upgrade


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




----------



## metallicafreak

Ordered the ARC last week. Hope to have it soon.


FREAK!


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

sorry I couldnt help myself, thats a shot of my 7' 5.5" diameter honest john at our launch area in upstate NY.


Its your fault Bob showing me how to do this


----------



## mr_fitz

Does anyone use the D2 for custom gamma correction, specifically for a jvc RS-1? I am curious as to how good a job it can do.


If anyone does use the custom gamma correction in the D2 if they could give me some direction as to how to perform the correction, or even some help as to where to find the information on how to perform the correction. I could not find anything in the manual.


Thanks


John


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/14087978
> 
> 
> the radio shack one I bought works fine.



Nick at Anthem has strongly suggested NOT using the RS USB adapter, since it has been known to corrupt data during firmware flashing. When the D2 manual says "some 'budget' adapters load bad data into the processor, possibly causing it to freeze" (p. 47), it is the RS adapter they are talking about.


----------



## ASW

For anyone considering updating their firmware to 1.32x from the Anthem tech support site, in my experience it is a step backward in terms of solid HDMI implementation. It is not as bad as 1.29j, which killed my video altogether, but still annoying. Both with 1.32 and 1.32b I experienced loss of video from my Tivo S3 and my PS3 (both connected via HDMI) and in some cases poor color (e.g., pinkish tint) - corrected by power cycling the D2 or switching inputs. Rolled back to 1.31 and all is perfect again.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14092261
> 
> 
> Nick at Anthem has strongly suggested NOT using the RS USB adapter, since it has been known to corrupt data during firmware flashing. When the D2 manual says "some 'budget' adapters load bad data into the processor, possibly causing it to freeze" (p. 47), it is the RS adapter they are talking about.



I have been using a Radio Shack USB-serial cable and it works great (knock-on-wood). I have no idea if its the same model as the one in question here, but I have yet to see any of the problems that others have seen.


Hopefully Anthem will put a USB and RJ45 on the back of the D3!


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/14092565
> 
> 
> I have been using a Radio Shack USB-serial cable and it works great (knock-on-wood). I have no idea if its the same model as the one in question here, but I have yet to see any of the problems that others have seen.
> 
> 
> Hopefully Anthem will put a USB and RJ45 on the back of the D3!



Here is the culprit.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search


----------



## Kensmith48

I downloaded v 1.31 and I'm still having the same issues as before. I see a vertical blue bar on a black screen until I change from one component to another and back to the dvd setting.

I have the D2 set to Letter/ Pillar Box but it's way to narrow vertically. When I change to another setting (ex.) Anamorphic and then back to Pillar Box then it's ok. I tried to save and then load the settings but they don't seem to work. The D2 goes back to asking if I want to save over and over.

When I downloaded the 1.31 v I saw the "Live Video Settings Editor" but I didn't see a way to download or use it. Maybe this is my problem? Could someone explain how to get the Editor.

Thanks,

Ken


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14093525
> 
> 
> Here is the culprit.
> 
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search



That's the one I have. Should I stop using it? It seems to be working fine - I have never had a single hiccup on a firmware upload and I haven't missed any yet.


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14090982
> 
> 
> Does anyone use the D2 for custom gamma correction, specifically for a jvc RS-1? I am curious as to how good a job it can do.
> 
> 
> If anyone does use the custom gamma correction in the D2 if they could give me some direction as to how to perform the correction, or even some help as to where to find the information on how to perform the correction. I could not find anything in the manual.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



I have been playing around with gamma correction on my D2 for a a JVC RS-1 projector for some time now. My issue has always been that the mid-tones projected on my screen (SMX 16:9 at 114" wide, RS-1 lamp on "hi" in a completely light-controlled room) were too dark, and that I was losing shadow detail in dark scenes. This happened consistently on both video sources (DirecTivo HD, and Samsung BD-5000 BluRay/HD-DVD player).


As you probably know, you have 2 options to affect gamma: the RS-1 has a gamma control with "Neutral, A, B, C" and the D2 has its own gamma control. The RS-1 gamma seems to affect only the very darkest levels, whereas the D2's control can change the entire shape of the exponential gamma curve.


Anyway, I was quite happy with setting the D2 to a setting of 90 (100 is the default). This did a great job of bringing up mid-tones without killing the deepest black levels that the JVC RS-1 is known for.


Then this weekend my Blu-Ray copy of "Digital Video Essentials" arrived, so I started playing with it. Based on test patterns, the D2 should be set at its default "100" setting, and the RS-1 projector at "Neutral." But when I went back to watching movies with many dark scenes like Blade Runner, Phantom of the Opera, and 2001, the black levels seemed to be crushed -- with a lack of shadow detail. So right now I'm using a D2 gamma setting of 95 (and RS-1 set to "neutral") with better results.


If I understand correctly, a setting of less than 100 on the D2 decreases gamma below the 2.2 exponential curve that's standard. In contrast (no pun intended), I've noticed that many people with RS-2 projectors are increasing gamma to 2.4 or above to make images on that projector really pop. If I did that (D2 gamma control above 100), it would make mid-tones even darker, which I would not find pleasing.


So the bottom line is to play around and use whatever gamma setting looks good to you. It's great that the D2 gives you that option.


- Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Keep in mind that the Gamma correction setting in the D2 interacts with Brightness (and to a lesser degree with Contrast) settings required in your display.


That means you have to iterate to find the sweet spot set of settings for Gamma in the D2, and Brightness and Contrast in your display.


Looking at just the "simple" exponential Gamma Correction in the D2, increasing the setting also has the effect of darkening the overall image. That means you need to raise Brightness in the display (and then re-adjust Contrast in the display) to get black levels back where they are supposed to be. Going the other way with the Gamma setting has the reverse effect.


So adjust Gamma and then use the Color Bars test chart in the D2 to adjust your black and white level settings in the display, and iterate.


Lower Gamma values mean that the imagery "comes out of black" faster. I.e., near black pixels become more distinguishable sooner.


Proper "2.2" Gamma (a combination of what your display already does and the correction the D2 adds) actually comes out of black quite slowly. That means pixels values just above black should only be distinguishable from black with some difficulty.


Many digital displays will need a D2 Gamma adjustment value above 1.00. That is, their default Gamma correction is too low. Their incorrect default produces an image with more "pop", which is part of the "torch mode" settings used to make the displays stand out in store conditions.


You can get a pretty good ball park reading of your current overall Gamma correction using the "squint" chart on calibration DVDs. Proper Gamma correction, particularly if you are going to fiddle with the custom curves the D2 offers, really should be done by taking measurements of step charts with a proper light sensor.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/14093529
> 
> 
> I downloaded v 1.31 and I'm still having the same issues as before. I see a vertical blue bar on a black screen until I change from one component to another and back to the dvd setting.
> 
> I have the D2 set to Letter/ Pillar Box but it's way to narrow vertically. When I change to another setting (ex.) Anamorphic and then back to Pillar Box then it's ok. I tried to save and then load the settings but they don't seem to work. The D2 goes back to asking if I want to save over and over.
> 
> When I downloaded the 1.31 v I saw the "Live Video Settings Editor" but I didn't see a way to download or use it. Maybe this is my problem? Could someone explain how to get the Editor.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



Live Video Settings Editor is a Windows PC application that talks to the D2 over the serial connection. It can be used, among other things, to save a copy of your Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file and to reload the settings from that file. It is included in the set of files you download when you get the V1.31 firmware installer application from the Anthem web site. Run the application, let it find your D2, "Get" the settings from the D2 and "Save" them to a PC file. To reload them, run the application, let it find the D2, "Open" your file of saved settings (File menu) and Upload them to the D2.


-----------------------------------


When you are Saving or Loading settings (User or Installer settings memory) in the Setup menu, remember that you have to CONFIRM that you want to do this before it will happen. I.e., you select the Save User Settings item, then you use the right arrow to change the No to a Yes in the confirmation message, then you hit Select to make it actually happen.


----------------------------------


You may have a bad firmware install that can be fixed by simply re-installing the firmware. But you should probably give Anthem tech support a call and describe what you've done and what you are seeing. They'll help you past this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14092282
> 
> 
> For anyone considering updating their firmware to 1.32x from the Anthem tech support site, in my experience it is a step backward in terms of solid HDMI implementation. It is not as bad as 1.29j, which killed my video altogether, but still annoying. Both with 1.32 and 1.32b I experienced loss of video from my Tivo S3 and my PS3 (both connected via HDMI) and in some cases poor color (e.g., pinkish tint) - corrected by power cycling the D2 or switching inputs. Rolled back to 1.31 and all is perfect again.



Do you by any chance have a DVI display?


Video which is "shocking pink" is usually a sign that the automatic data format selection handshake has incorrectly decided to send YCbCr to a DVI display instead of the RGB that the display really wants. Some DVI displays don't play well with the automatic format selection stuff. Try setting the Data item in Setup / Video Output to RGB instead of Auto to force RGB output to a DVI display.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14094350
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the Gamma correction setting in the D2 interacts with Brightness (and to a lesser degree with Contrast).
> 
> 
> That means you have to iterate to find the sweet spot set of settings for Gamma, Brightness and Contrast.
> 
> 
> Looking at just the "simple" exponential Gamma Correction in the D2, increasing the setting also has the effect of darkening the overall image. That means you need to raise Brightness (and then re-adjust Contrast) to get black levels back where they are supposed to be. Going the other way with the Gamma setting has the reverse effect.
> 
> 
> So adjust Gamma and then use the Color Bars test chart in the D2 to adjust your black and white levels, and iterate.
> 
> 
> Lower Gamma values mean that the imagery "comes out of black" faster. I.e., near black pixels become more distinguishable sooner.
> 
> 
> Proper "2.2" Gamma (a combination of what your display already does and the correction the D2 adds) actually comes out of black quite slowly. That means pixels values just above black should only be distinguishable from black with some difficulty.
> 
> 
> Many digital displays will need a D2 Gamma adjustment value above 1.00. That is, their default Gamma correction is too low. Their incorrect default produces an image with more "pop", which is part of the "torch mode" settings used to make the displays stand out in store conditions.
> 
> 
> You can get a pretty good ball park reading of your current overall Gamma correction using the "squint" chart on calibration DVDs. Proper Gamma correction, particularly if you are going to fiddle with the custom curves the D2 offers, really should be done by taking measurements of step charts with a proper light sensor.
> 
> --Bob




I read the grey scale for dummies page and was planning on ordering the eye-one display lt and the dve on BluRay and downloading ColorHCFR. I had already set my contrast and brightness on my jvc rs-1 using the internal test pattern from my D2. I found that the best gamma setting was 95. Now I did this by eye using multiple BD movies so by no way was it perfect.


I think that you Bob use a setting of 114, is that correct? How did you arrive at this number?


There is two different custom gamma curves option. Option 1 sets gamma with a single variable and option 2 allows you to adjust seperately for red, blue and green. What is the difference between the two? Which is better to use? Where can I find information about what these do and how to set these properly? The x & y values range from 0 - 1028, what are these values? Will adjusting the red, blue and green options for setting gamma affect the primaries and secondaries of my projector?


Where is the manual on how to use the live video settings editor? Specifically the advanced settings option with respect to gamma options.


thanks for the help


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14094457
> 
> 
> I read the grey scale for dummies and was planning on ordering the eye-one display lt and the dve on BluRay. I had already set my contrast and brightness on my jvc rs-1 using the internal test pattern from my D2. I found that the best gamma setting was 95. Now I did this by eye using multiple BD movies so by no way was it perfect.
> 
> 
> I think that you Bob use a setting of 114?



Right. Which required a couple steps change in Brightness in the display to match things back up again.


Basically what I've done is use the squint charts from the Avia Pro calibration disc set to discover that a D2 exponential Gamma correction of 115 results in an overall Gamma of 2.2 with my display -- and with good tracking across different gray scale levels.


Then I did some iteration with Brightness and Contrast in the display and Gamma in the D2 to get the calibration disc's gray ramps and basic black and white levels looking good, and finally confirmed that with real movies.


The bottom line is that dropping Gamma from the "squint chart" determined value of 115 to an iterated choice setting of 114, and using Brightness and Contrast of 50 each for the D2 input settings, along with the best fit Brightness and Contrast settings in the display, resulted in very close to total elimination of banding and excellent imagery from my Pioneer Elite 59avi standard DVD player.


At which point I decided if it aint broke don't fix it -- i.e., why futz with measuring step charts and fiddling with Custom correction curves when what I've now got looks so close to perfection?


When I set up my PS3 -- now using the DVE Blu-Ray calibration disc -- my setting choices were constrained a bit because I didn't want to change the settings in the display (since that would also alter the video from the Pioneer).


What I found was that by raising input Contrast in the D2 by one step (makes image lighter) and countering that by raising Gamma in the D2 by two steps (makes image darker), I *ALSO* got nigh unto perfection.


So for the PS3 I'm using D2 input Brightness 50, Contrast 51, D2 output Exponential Gamma 116.


With the default exponential Gamma correction of 100 in the D2 (i.e., equivalent to Gamma Correction turned off in the D2), the squint charts shows my plasma as having an inherent, internal Gamma of 1.8. Thus raising the Gamma setting in the D2 is necessary to get that up to 2.2.


If you look into the details of this stuff, overall Gamma of 2.2 to 2.4 is "right" but for technical reasons it is usually best to set up at the low end of that -- i.e., 2.2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just got an email heads up from Nick at Anthem:


D2 V1.32b is about to go "official" as the V1.33 production release. This should happen today. Note that among other things this version will allow ARC V1.2.1 or higher to completely verify all the setting changes it makes when it Uploads results to the D2.


------------------------------------


The newest cut on the HDMI drivers is slated for "official" release V1.34. It will become the beta "test" version shortly after V1.33 goes "official". This alpha test software is currently V1.32c in their internal testing. I don't know if it will retain that version number when it first appears for beta (field) testing or will be renumbered to something like V1.33a for beta testing to avoid confusion as to whether it is earlier or later than the V1.33 "official" release.


Changes to HDMI drivers can cause all sorts of issues. Folks who like to jump on test releases should be prepared for unexpected results or should hold off until the pioneers have absorbed some of the arrows.


=======================


ETA: The password protected Anthem download page now contains both V1.33 (the "official" release of what used to be the V1.32b "test" software) and V1.32c (the new "test" software version with new HDMI drivers that is destined to eventually become the V1.34 "official" release).


The public download page has not yet been updated to include V1.33 as the "official" release but presumably that is about to happen.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here are the release notes for the D2 V1.32c "test" software (the version with the new HDMI driver that is destined to eventually become "official" release V1.34). Nick says they have no known issues at this point with this version. Note that this change list is with respect to the original V1.31 "official" release, so some of the changes listed here actually appeared in software up to and including V1.32b (which is now the "official" V1.33 release). For example, the improvement in ARC Upload verifications appeared in V1.31c. I've not yet seen a change list specific to V1.32b AKA V1.33.



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v1.32c (this is newer than v1.33 release which equals v1.32b)
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for problem where unit was sometimes shutting down at end of bootup cycle.
> 
> 
> 2. Deleted uncommon output resolutions from video output menus leaving the ones ending in 480i/p, 576i/p, 720p, 768p, and 1080i/p - all others still available via serial command or Live Video Settings Editor (set menu selection to Custom).
> 
> 
> 3. Status readouts modified - less items, more copy protection info as listed in section 4.14 in manuals dated 6/13/08 or later (date is on back cover).
> 
> 
> 4. Added verification while ARC parameters are uploaded and made error reporting more detailed.
> 
> 
> 5. Display reads "PCM" instead of "Digital" when input is uncompressed digital audio.
> 
> 
> 6. Deleted "HDMI Repeater" from source setup.
> 
> 
> 7. New HDMI module.



--Bob


----------



## jayray

installed 1.32 and noticed the PCM display as well as sound with pj off now works. Is it worth going to the 1.33 if everything works, ie. are there any improvements for the AVM50 as opposed to the D2?

John


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14095532
> 
> 
> Here are the release notes for the D2 V1.32c "test" software (the version with the new HDMI driver that is destined to eventually become "official" release V1.34). Nick says they have no known issues at this point with this version. Note that this change list is with respect to the original V1.31 "official" release, so some of the changes listed here actually appeared in software up to and including V1.32b (which is now the "official" V1.33 release). For example, the improvement in ARC Upload verifications appeared in V1.31c. I've not yet seen a change list specific to V1.32b AKA V1.33.
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Release 1.32c includes a new HDMI modules that is not fully proven. Don't use that version for now unless Nick recommend you to use it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is at least one bug in the HDMI portion of the D2 V1.32c "test" software: It is not properly exchanging the highest video resolution during the HDMI handshake.


If you use a PS3 and ask it to do the automatic HDMI video setup, it will decide that 1080i/60 is the top resolution it can send to the D2. If you go into the PS3's video settings and manually add 1080p/60 that works however automatic switching to 1080p/24 when playing Blu-Ray movies still doesn't work. If you then go into the BD settings and force 1080p/24 to ON instead of Automatic that TOO works.


So everything actually works from the PS3 to the D2, it's just that the automatic exchange of capabilities seems to have a "one off" problem.


This has been reported to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14095584
> 
> 
> installed 1.32 and noticed the PCM display as well as sound with pj off now works. Is it worth going to the 1.33 if everything works, ie. are there any improvements for the AVM50 as opposed to the D2?
> 
> John



The changes from V1.32 to V1.33 are cosmetic cleanup I believe, but I'm not sure of that. For example, they fixed the formatting error in the Setup / Source Setup menu. In any event, if you are not going to subject yourself to the beta test software then you really should go to V1.33 just to be on the current, "official" release from Anthem.


I.e., stay at V1.31 or go to V1.33 if you want to be on the "official" software.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is some good news with the D2 V1.32c "test" software. In my preliminary testing it appears to lock into the HDMI from my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR much faster than with the prior software, and without all the annoying, static-like flashes.


At this point it seems to be at least as fast and clean with that Comcast box as the HDMI in the older V1.11 software and maybe faster and cleaner.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Nick just emailed me suggesting I try 1.32c which he said is the most up-to-date despite the 1.33 which is on the public site.


John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14096388
> 
> 
> Nick just emailed me suggesting I try 1.32c which he said is the most up-to-date despite the 1.33 which is on the public site.
> 
> 
> John



I don't see 1.33 on the public download site.


----------



## ninja12

I have noticed, after several calibrations, that 1.2.2 is setting my crossovers differently from 1.1. Now, my crossover for my sub is 120 and for my mains 40. With 1.1, my crossover for my sub was 60 and for my mains 30. Is anyone else noticing this difference? I have 1.32b loaded.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14096500
> 
> 
> I don't see 1.33 on the public download site.



Sorry, your right. It is only on the support site with password.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14096500
> 
> 
> I don't see 1.33 on the public download site.



It has not made it onto the public site yet. Perhaps tomorrow.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14096538
> 
> 
> I have noticed, after several calibrations, that 1.2.2 is setting my crossovers differently from 1.1. Now, my crossover for my sub is 120 and for my mains 40. With 1.1, my crossover for my sub was 60 and for my mains 30. Is anyone else noticing this difference? I have 1.32b loaded.



Yes, ARC V1.2.1 introduced a new, improved algorithm for the automatic setting of the cross overs. (ARC V1.2.2 is supposed to have fixed the problem of loud pops being sent to the subwoofer during an Upload of ARC results.)


If you are happy with the way you did your V1.1 measurements, there is no need to re-measure. Run ARC V1.2.2 in Advanced mode, open the file with your prior measurements, go into the Targets window, do an Auto Detect (which will reset the Targets according to the new algorithm), leave the Targets window, do a Calculate, and do an Upload.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14096599
> 
> 
> Yes, ARC V1.2.1 introduced a new, improved algorithm for the automatic setting of the cross overs. (ARC V1.2.2 is supposed to have fixed the problem of loud pops being sent to the subwoofer during an Upload of ARC results.)
> 
> 
> If you are happy with the way you did your V1.1 measurements, there is no need to re-measure. Run ARC V1.2.2 in Advanced mode, open the file with your prior measurements, go into the Targets window, do an Auto Detect (which will reset the Targets according to the new algorithm), leave the Targets window, do a Calculate, and do an Upload.
> 
> --Bob



That's what I did first and then I did a full recalibration. The results were the same. I'm just a little concerned that ARC 1.2.2 has set my crossover for my sub to 120 which is pretty high to me.


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14093525
> 
> 
> Here is the culprit.
> 
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search



im using a black cable model #26-949 luckily it worked fine


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14096923
> 
> 
> That's what I did first and then I did a full recalibration. The results were the same. I'm just a little concerned that ARC 1.2.2 has set my crossover for my sub to 120 which is pretty high to me.



That's the crossover for LFE, not the crossover for redirected bass.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14096923
> 
> 
> That's what I did first and then I did a full recalibration. The results were the same. I'm just a little concerned that ARC 1.2.2 has set my crossover for my sub to 120 which is pretty high to me.



Keep in mind that the cross over setting works in conjunctions with the correction parameters that ARC installs in the D2. That means the upper frequencies that get sent through the higher cross over may be attenuated anyway by the room correction processing.


If the target curve ARC is showing for your subwoofer makes sense (particularly in how it rolls off above 80Hz), then you are probably good to go DESPITE the cross over setting appearing unusually high.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

CAUTION: The newest "test" software, D2 V1.32c is definitely not ready for prime time yet, although it is showing some signs that it will be pretty nifty once they get it working right.


HDMI handshaking for my Comcast HD-DVR is definitely much faster and cleaner. Cool!


On the other hand, 5.1 channel HDMI LPCM audio from my PS3 is causing the Center channel of audio input to come out of the Right Surround speaker in my 5.1 speaker setup!


In addition I've got more confirmation that something is not getting sent correctly when input devices ask the D2 what it can accept over HDMI. For example my Pioneer 59avi DVD player reverted its HDMI output to 480p. When I manually reset it to 480i it worked just fine, but the automatic stuff didn't work.


I also think I've had a couple of cases where switching to the PS3 causes blacks to be displayed too bright (despite the Video Source Adjust menu values being correct). It appears that can be fixed by power cycling the PS3 -- and perhaps by switching away from the PS3 input and back to it. It's not happened enough for me to pin this one down yet.


All of this has been reported to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Here is what happened with 1.32c.


installed 1.32c and sound went wonky. Front channel came through the right side channels for hddvd and blu-ray. Regular DVD was fine through optical and digital box was a little weird but couldn't pinpoint what it was. Got popping sound when changing sources which went around the room. There was no OSD for setup. Could only do it from the AVM50 display. Finally reinstalled 1.33 and all was fine except no sound when pj off. Video sure looks good seems smoother. Blacks are fine too.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14097926
> 
> 
> Here is what happened with 1.32c.
> 
> 
> installed 1.32c and sound went wonky. Front channel came through the right side channels for hddvd and blu-ray. Regular DVD was fine through optical and digital box was a little weird but couldn't pinpoint what it was. Got popping sound when changing sources which went around the room. There was no OSD for setup. Could only do it from the AVM50 display. Finally reinstalled 1.33 and all was fine except no sound when pj off. Video sure looks good seems smoother. Blacks are fine too.
> 
> 
> John



I'm glad that the "official" V1.33 release is working for you! Your experience with V1.32c is similar to mine.


On the issue of sound with the projector off, try switching to that HDMI audio input AFTER turning off the projector. That works for me. The problem arises if you are already on that input when you turn the projector off.

--Bob


----------



## dwwhitley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/12927922
> 
> 
> The problem was with 480i/60 to 1080p/24 and with 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversions when viewing "film-based" content -- i.e., normal movies as seen on TV channels or standard DVD, or as seen from HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players which have been set to output 1080i/60.*
> 
> 
> I've seen nothing in the release notes posted here to indicate Anthem has fixed this yet, and the word we had from Anthem some months back was that they intended to release the ARC-1 software before fixing this.
> *
> 
> 1080p24 input to 1080p/24 output already works just fine in software versions V1.12 or higher.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Has anyone heard whether Anthem is making advances on this issue?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've not heard a peep on this since ARC shipped. I was planning on pinging Nick about it soon, but since I don't have a /24 capable display to test it with I don't really have much standing to beg.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14097926
> 
> 
> Here is what happened with 1.32c.
> 
> 
> installed 1.32c and sound went wonky. Front channel came through the right side channels for hddvd and blu-ray. Regular DVD was fine through optical and digital box was a little weird but couldn't pinpoint what it was. Got popping sound when changing sources which went around the room. There was no OSD for setup. Could only do it from the AVM50 display. Finally reinstalled 1.33 and all was fine except no sound when pj off. Video sure looks good seems smoother. Blacks are fine too.
> 
> 
> John



I endup with a pink screen I reverted to 1.33 which is stable.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I tried the Setup / Source Setup / HDMI Map item to see if it would sort out the PS3 audio issues in D2 V1.32c. It was a long shot at best since that setting is only supposed to apply to DVD-Audio input.


No luck. Changing it had no effect I could discern.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14094432
> 
> 
> Do you by any chance have a DVI display?
> 
> 
> Video which is "shocking pink" is usually a sign that the automatic data format selection handshake has incorrectly decided to send YCbCr to a DVI display instead of the RGB that the display really wants. Some DVI displays don't play well with the automatic format selection stuff. Try setting the Data item in Setup / Video Output to RGB instead of Auto to force RGB output to a DVI display.
> 
> --Bob



Nope - no DVI - I have a Panasonic th65px600u plasma panel connected via HDMI.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14098236
> 
> 
> I'm glad that the "official" V1.33 release is working for you! Your experience with V1.32c is similar to mine.
> 
> 
> On the issue of sound with the projector off, try switching to that HDMI audio input AFTER turning off the projector. That works for me. The problem arises if you are already on that input when you turn the projector off.
> 
> --Bob



My 1.32c experience is not so bad so far.


1. Stable HDMI (especially compared to 1.32b - faster handshake than 1.31).


2. The issue I have had with my Tivo S3 locking up the D2 when it switches resolutions in "native" output is better, but at a cost of the D2 taking a painfully long time with a black screen while the D2 locks on to the new resolution (keeping the Tivo set to 1080i is still the better option).


3. I did not notice the PS3 auto setup problems Bob experienced - my PS3 correctly auto set up all output resoutions.


4. I have experienced an annoying popping sound on occasion when the D2 switches sources ( or when the Tivo switches resolutions, causing a new HDMI handshake).


Alan


----------



## abc999

Similar problem with the PS3, PCM center comes out of the right surround channel after 1.32c upgrade


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14098236
> 
> 
> I'm glad that the "official" V1.33 release is working for you! Your experience with V1.32c is similar to mine.
> 
> 
> On the issue of sound with the projector off, try switching to that HDMI audio input AFTER turning off the projector. That works for me. The problem arises if you are already on that input when you turn the projector off.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

tried your suggestion and it worked for the sound when pj off. Thanks again for your help. All is now well in Anthem Land









John


PS. sound from optical is fine it seems the hdmi implementation is the problem.


----------



## mr_fitz

Is there a manual for the live video settings editor? I am trying to find out how to use the advanced video settings, specifically the custom gamma correction.


Thanks


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14100619
> 
> 
> Is there a manual for the live video settings editor? I am trying to find out how to use the advanced video settings, specifically the custom gamma correction.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> John



Not that I've been able to find. If you get a handle on a good way to use the Custom Gamma stuff, please do post the info here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14099908
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> tried your suggestion and it worked for the sound when pj off. Thanks again for your help. All is now well in Anthem Land
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> PS. sound from optical is fine it seems the hdmi implementation is the problem.



Yes, the HDMI input source is trying to determine whether it has to mute the audio due to copy protection, but when the display gets turned off it can no longer find the display's info to complete that. The bug is that the Anthem should demand a complete new HDMI handshake (as when you switch away to a different input source and back) as opposed to just a normal "re-confirmation" of the HDCP copy protection stuff within an existing connection (set up by the prior handshake).


When you manually force the new handshake by switching to that input AFTER the display is off, the Anthem properly presents itself as the end of the HDMI chain and the source device is happy again.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14098749
> 
> 
> 4. I have experienced an annoying popping sound on occasion when the D2 switches sources ( or when the Tivo switches resolutions, causing a new HDMI handshake).



I wonder whether the Setup / Source Setup / Muting item is properly functioning with the new HDMI driver in D2 V1.32c.


Do you have a pair of Optical or Coax audio input sources you could switch between to see if you are getting the popping on source switch when HDMI input is not involved?

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52

After waiting for over 7 weeks for an ARC I finally called my dealer who contacted his rep. Apparently they are again about to start being available. I know someone earlier said that it was due to a shortage of microphones, however it also seems to conincide with the firming up of some of the software mentioned here recently. Hopefully it will not be too much longer.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14100854
> 
> 
> I wonder whether the Setup / Source Setup / Muting item is properly functioning with the new HDMI driver in D2 V1.32c.
> 
> 
> Do you have a pair of Optical or Coax audio input sources you could switch between to see if you are getting the popping on source switch when HDMI input is not involved?
> 
> --Bob



I do, but I already rolled back to 1.31. Maybe I will reload 1.32c and try the optical audio and see if it pops also.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2 V1.32c "test" software -- the one with the new HDMI driver -- has been withdrawn from the Anthem password protected download page. Nick says, "Back to the drawing board."


The D2 V1.33 new "official" software version is still on there, and there are now release notes specific to the changes in it from V1.31 -- which presumably was a necessary step before they could move it over to the public download page. Here are its notes:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v1.33
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for problem where unit was sometimes shutting down at end of bootup cycle.
> 
> 
> 2. Deleted uncommon output resolutions from video output menus leaving the ones ending in 480i/p, 576i/p, 720p, 768p, and 1080i/p - all others still available via serial command or Live Video Settings Editor (set menu selection to Custom).
> 
> 
> 3. Status readouts modified - less items, more copy protection info as listed in section 4.14 in manuals dated 6/13/08 or later (date is on back cover).
> 
> 
> 4. Added verification while ARC parameters are uploaded and made error reporting more detailed.
> 
> 
> 5. Display reads "PCM" instead of "Digital" when input is uncompressed digital audio.
> 
> 
> 6. Deleted "HDMI Repeater" from source setup.



The D2 V1.20 software has reappeared on the password protected download page for some comparison testing related to specific problems Anthem is working with V1.31 and V1.33. For example, Nick has asked me to revert back to V1.20 temporarily to see if my S-video interference lines problem goes away in the older software.


Again, most readers here should be on V1.31 or V1.33, I'll be switching to V1.33 myself as soon as I have finished Nick's requested test with V1.20.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14102665
> 
> 
> The D2 V1.32c "test" software -- the one with the new HDMI driver -- has been withdrawn from the Anthem password protected download page. Nick says, "Back to the drawing board."
> 
> 
> The D2 V1.33 new "official" software version is still on there, and there are now release notes specific to the changes in it from V1.31 -- which presumably was a necessary step before they could move it over to the public download page. Here are its notes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The D2 V1.20 software has reappeared on the password protected download page for some comparison testing related to specific problems Anthem is working with V1.31 and V1.33. For example, Nick has asked me to revert back to V1.20 temporarily to see if my S-video interference lines problem goes away in the older software.
> 
> 
> Again, most readers here should be on V1.31 or V1.33, I'll be switching to V1.33 myself as soon as I have finished Nick's requested test with V1.20.
> 
> --Bob



I switch to V1.33 and it seams to work well.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2 V1.33 Released!*


D2 V1.33 is now available on the Anthem public downloads page. This is the new "official" software release for the D2:

http://www.sonicfrontiers.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


This is particularly important for ARC users, as when used with ARC V1.2.2 (also on that page) you will get additional verification to make sure your Upload of ARC results to the D2 has, in fact, transmitted all the values correctly to the D2.


ETA: An updated version of the D2 V1.3x Operating Manual is also now up on the Anthem public download page:

http://www.sonicfrontiers.com/HTML/P...ual/D2_OM.html 


--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




Bob Pariseau said:


> I just got an email heads up from Nick at Anthem:
> 
> 
> D2 V1.32b is about to go "official" as the V1.33 production release. This should happen today. Note that among other things this version will allow ARC V1.2.1 or higher to completely verify all the setting changes it makes when it Uploads results to the D2.
> 
> 
> Bob, I upgraded to v1.32b a few days ago and its been working fine. Is it exactly the same version as the new v1.33 now on the main Anthem site?
> 
> 
> I also updated ARC to 1.2.2. and thought I had re-run it for the new software, but I had failed to do the 'auto detect' step. Thanks for the step by step instructions in another one of your posts, BTW. So I re-ran it correctly and my subwoofer x-over went from 100 to 120hz, similar to what some others have experienced.
> 
> I do have one concern with ARC though. Every time I re-run it and check my settings it always changes my sub from 2 to 1. Is ARC not running both my subs during its sweeps? or are the corrections not being applied to both subs?, or is it merely a glitch in ARC that hasn't been corrected? There is nowhere in the ARC speaker set-up to tell it how many subs you are using, but the checkbox says 'subwoofers'.
> 
> Also could you tell me what the 'CP' and 'NP' mean that are now showing up on the front panel display.
> 
> Thanks, Tom


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14101905
> 
> 
> After waiting for over 7 weeks for an ARC I finally called my dealer who contacted his rep. Apparently they are again about to start being available. I know someone earlier said that it was due to a shortage of microphones, however it also seems to conincide with the firming up of some of the software mentioned here recently. Hopefully it will not be too much longer.



I contacted Anthem tech support a few weeks ago, and they said more ARC's would be shipping on June 12. I see on my caller I.D. that my dealer called today (no message?







) so I hope that means they are shipping it to me. (I placed my order on April 9!) But yeah, after some of the earlier "bugs" maybe it's better that we are getting ours "late".


----------



## seismo




tngiloy said:


> Bob Pariseau said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I re-ran it correctly and my subwoofer x-over went from 100 to 120hz, similar to what some others have experienced.
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> Since v1.1.2, all my sub xover values have been set to 120 hz consistently. It seems that more and more users are getting the same result. Anybody got something different? Is it a fixed value now?
Click to expand...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14104983
> 
> 
> Bob, I upgraded to v1.32b a few days ago and its been working fine. Is it exactly the same version as the new v1.33 now on the main Anthem site?
> 
> 
> I also updated ARC to 1.2.2. and thought I had re-run it for the new software, but I had failed to do the 'auto detect' step. Thanks for the step by step instructions in another one of your posts, BTW. So I re-ran it correctly and my subwoofer x-over went from 100 to 120hz, similar to what some others have experienced.
> 
> I do have one concern with ARC though. Every time I re-run it and check my settings it always changes my sub from 2 to 1. Is ARC not running both my subs during its sweeps? or are the corrections not being applied to both subs?, or is it merely a glitch in ARC that hasn't been corrected? There is nowhere in the ARC speaker set-up to tell it how many subs you are using, but the checkbox says 'subwoofers'.
> 
> Also could you tell me what the 'CP' and 'NP' mean that are now showing up on the front panel display.
> 
> Thanks, Tom



I do not know if there have been any last minute changes between D2 V1.32b and V1.33 other than the version number. I suspect not, but since V1.33 is now the "official" release, I'd suggest you upgrade to it and get it out of the way.


The D2 manual says that when using ARC the "1 sub" setting is to be used whether or not you have more than 1 sub. This makes sense as all the 2 sub setting does is modify the volume at which the Setup / Speaker Calibration tones are sent out to make it easier for the user to use the same "noise level" despite the extra sub driver. ARC doesn't need that. The subwoofer volume trim levels it uploads also assume the "1 sub" setting. Since the D2 sends exactly the same signal to both subs (i.e., no separate controls for the second sub) you lose nothing by doing it this way. Both subs are driven (at the same time) when you do the sweeps because the 2 sub outputs of the D2 invariably carry the same signal (which includes the ARC test sweeps). I.e., ARC corrects for the pair of them as if they were one combined subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14105312
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14104983
> 
> 
> So I re-ran it correctly and my subwoofer x-over went from 100 to 120hz, similar to what some others have experienced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since v1.1.2, all my sub xover values have been set to 120 hz consistently. It seems that more and more users are getting the same result. Anybody got something different? Is it a fixed value now?
Click to expand...


I suspect we have a biased sample here since many of us probably have subwoofers that can easily go up that high.


Again, the ACTUAL roll off of the subwoofer will be a combination of the cross over filter setting and the cuts implemented by the room correction parameters ARC calculates. So long as your "target" subwoofer curve makes sense to you (rolling off nicely above 80Hz) then you are fine despite the higher cross over filter setting.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




seismo said:


> tngiloy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14094686
> 
> 
> So I re-ran it correctly and my subwoofer x-over went from 100 to 120hz, similar to what some others have experienced.
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> Since v1.1.2, all my sub xover values have been set to 120 hz consistently. It seems that more and more users are getting the same result. Anybody got something different? Is it a fixed value now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not for me. Got 100Hz consistently.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14104983
> 
> 
> [Also could you tell me what the 'CP' and 'NP' mean that are now showing up on the front panel display.
> 
> Thanks, Tom





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14105511
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob



I would also like to know about the CP and NP on the display


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/14105792
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> I would also like to know about the CP and NP on the display



That one's easy. CP means the input source has mandated Copy Protection. NP means the input is Not Protected -- i.e., allows high res digital output from the Anthem to any device including a recorder.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Completed the V1.20 testing and installed V1.33. It performs like V1.32b for me. I.e., it works.


But I hope Anthem gets the kinks worked out of the new HDMI driver soon, because now I really miss the snappy HDMI handshake V1.32c provided for my Comcast HD-DVR...

--Bob


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14105511
> 
> 
> I suspect we have a biased sample here since many of us probably have subwoofers that can easily go up that high.
> 
> 
> Again, the ACTUAL roll off of the subwoofer will be a combination of the cross over filter setting and the cuts implemented by the room correction parameters ARC calculates. So long as your "target" subwoofer curve makes sense to you (rolling off nicely above 80Hz) then you are fine despite the higher cross over filter setting.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I understand what your are saying but having had the last 20 measurements giving me a sub xover of 120 hz is strange I think. While doing those last 20 or so meausurements I was experimenting with sub location. I moved the sub to 5 different locations in the room. The end result, was a room gain ranging from about 1.7 to 3.7 and a consistent xover of 120 hz.


Does this make sense?


Thanks


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14106967
> 
> 
> But I hope Anthem gets the kinks worked out of the new HDMI driver soon, because now I really miss the snappy HDMI handshake V1.32c provided for my Comcast HD-DVR...
> 
> --Bob



Me too -


Also, at least with my system, 1.32b/1.33 was a real step back in terms of HDMI stability. I am sticking with 1.31 for now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14107352
> 
> 
> Me too -
> 
> 
> Also, at least with my system, 1.32b/1.33 was a real step back in terms of HDMI stability. I am sticking with 1.31 for now.



I saw very little difference in HDMI stability between V1.31 and V1.32b (AKA V1.33), but if anything I thought the V1.33 was a little MORE stable.


The bottom line is that the current HDMI driver (V1.33) is doing more retries then it should really have to do, and how many retries you get will vary for all sorts of reasons.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14107211
> 
> 
> Bob, I understand what your are saying but having had the last 20 measurements giving me a sub xover of 120 hz is strange I think. While doing those last 20 or so meausurements I was experimenting with sub location. I moved the sub to 5 different locations in the room. The end result, was a room gain ranging from about 1.7 to 3.7 and a consistent xover of 120 hz.
> 
> 
> Does this make sense?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I don't know the answer to that. You might want to send an email to Nick at Anthem with your results. He can run it by the ARC engineers to see if this is expected behavior. But again, if the Target (and Calculated) curves for the subwoofer look reasonable to you, then the actual cross over value is not really important.


Keep in mind that it is easier to implement elements of the room correction as cuts rather than boosts -- i.e., it is easier to attenuate the output than to amplify it. If overlapped cross overs between the main and the subs yields hot bass near the cross over (prior to applying the room correction stuff), then more of the room correction application will be in the form of cuts.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Today got some weird things with 1.33.


1. interference when in the setup menu. ie. diagonal blue and red lines

2. very loud pop on several occasions when going into the setup menu through all speakers as well as sub. On mute can't hear it.

will let Nick know


Question for Bob,

read one of your posts about ps3 video settings. Wondered why you suggested 1080p/24? I have a 1280x720 pj but I realize the signal will go through the video processor in my AVM50. Is there a benefit for me doing it this way. Tried it both ways and could not tell any diff.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14109234
> 
> 
> Today got some weird things with 1.33.
> 
> 
> 1. interference when in the setup menu. ie. diagonal blue and red lines
> 
> 2. very loud pop on several occasions when going into the setup menu through all speakers as well as sub. On mute can't hear it.
> 
> will let Nick know
> 
> 
> Question for Bob,
> 
> read one of your posts about ps3 video settings. Wondered why you suggested 1080p/24? I have a 1280x720 pj but I realize the signal will go through the video processor in my AVM50. Is there a benefit for me doing it this way. Tried it both ways and could not tell any diff.
> 
> 
> John



Please give Anthem tech support a call regarding your Setup menu issues. Your symptom is distinct from what I'm seeing but I wouldn't be surprised if they are related.


------------------------------


The general rule of thumb for ALL source devices is to have them do as little as possible to the content, unless you have some good reason to turn on processing in them. Blu-Ray movies (film based content) come off the disc as 1080p/24 (except for "live concert" style Blu-Ray discs which come off the disc in "video rate" at 1080i/60). By turning on the "Automatic" 1080p/24 in the PS3 it will send 1080p/24 to the Anthem when playing the 1080p/24 discs. The Anthem will then convert that to your desired output video format. This is the best way to do things even if you don't happen to have a /24 capable display because it eliminates one more step in the processing before the PS3 can output its video.


The PS3 will send 1080i/60 discs to the Anthem as 1080i/60. The current PS3 software does not offer the option to de-interlace such discs to 1080p/60. But of course the Anthem can do that correctly for you prior to scaling down the video for your 720p projector.


You definitely do *NOT* want to tell the PS3 to send 720p video to the Anthem [EDIT: For Blu-Ray movies. Some Games will insist on 720p video output from the PS3]. Let the Anthem do any scaling you need.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Already done. Thanks for the explanation.

John


ps. I gather that should be done with my HD DVD player?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14109636
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Already done. Thanks for the explanation.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> ps. I gather that should be done with my HD DVD player?



HD-DVD? What's that? (grin!)


I've lost track of which HD-DVD players can output 1080p/24, but if yours can, then that's most likely what you should be using when playing HD-DVD "film based" movies into the Anthem -- again, whether or not you have a /24 capable TV.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14109710
> 
> 
> HD-DVD? What's that? (grin!)
> 
> 
> the one that should have won
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've lost track of which HD-DVD players can output 1080p/24, but if yours can, then that's most likely what you should be using when playing HD-DVD "film based" movies into the Anthem -- again, whether or not you have a /24 capable TV.
> 
> --Bob



I have the XA2 which I believe does output at 1080p/24.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Does anyone know of a way to get the PS3 to send 12-bit, YCbCr 4:2:2 to the Anthem instead of 8-bit, YCbCr 4:4:4?


Since the PS3's HDMI V1.3 output is capable of "Deep Color", it should also be capable of YCbCr 4:2:2 at 10- or 12-bits per sample, but I can't find any way to tell it to do that.


ETA: I believe some of the upcoming new Blu-Ray players, the Pioneers for example, can be set to do YCbCr 4:2:2 output. If this works well with the Anthems, *AND* if people actually see any improvement in imagery when using this (which is by no means a given), that could be the first ***** in the armor of the PS3 as a Blu-Ray player for use with the Anthems.


I sent an email to Nick to try to nail down what the Anthems' own capabilities are here -- i.e., when doing YCbCr 4:2:2 input or output, do the Anthems support 10-bits/sample or 12-bits/sample?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*CAUTION: "Get" function of Live Video Settings Editor V1.30a not reliable!*


Live Video Settings Editor (latest version V1.30a) is an Anthem Windows application that lets you view and alter the Video Source Adjust menu settings "on the fly" -- i.e., while viewing video. It is also the tool you use to set up Custom Video Output resolutions or Custom Gamma Correction, which, once uploaded into the Anthem, can then be selected from the Anthem's Setup menus. [These last two items, altering the Setup menu, are not done "on the fly".]


The "Get" function retrieves the entire set of Video Source Adjust menu settings (for all inputs) so that you can view them in the application. One important use of this is so that you can then "Save" those settings to a file on your PC -- a crucial step when upgrading the firmware from V1.29j or older to V1.30 or newer since the Video Source Adjust menu settings will not survive that transition.


I have now seen several instances where certain specific data items don't come over properly from my D2 when I do a "Get". There are 3 specific items that sometimes fail for me:


1) The choice to use Exponential Gamma Correction for some input gets retrieved as No Gamma Correction (Gamma disabled).


2) The numeric value for Exponential Gamma Correction for some input gets retrieved as 1 instead of the proper value (114 in my case).


3) The input Contrast setting for some input gets retrieved as 5 instead of the proper value (50 in my case).


This doesn't happen every time, and in fact simply doing another "Get" most often retrieves the correct values. And of course you can also change incorrect values to correct values manually within the application.


But you should definitely review your Get results before Saving those values to a PC file as you backup file -- particularly when you intend to use that to reload settings to the Anthem after a firmware install.


This is using my older Windows 2000 laptop with the real serial port. I've seen LVSE V1.30a Get failures now on D2 firmware versions V1.31c, V1.32b (AKA V1.33), and V1.32c. I doubt the D2 firmware is the culprit here but I mention this for completeness.


I've not yet found a case where restoring values to the D2 was unreliable -- i.e., Open a saved file on the PC and Load the results to the D2 -- but folks should keep a wary eye on this, too.


None of this is fatal, since you can, obviously, make manual corrections, but it is wise to double check the results of both Get and Load operations to avoid confusion after the fact. And in particular, double check your Get results before you Save them to a backup PC file.


This issue has been reported to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## goatwuss

Hello,


I just got a used D2 delivered to me, and I have set it up with my Tivo.


Something weird is going on. On a SD channel (480i etc) if I flip the input on the D2 to 'TV' I get sound, it says "Dolby D, AL-Cinema". When I then flip to a HD channel, DD 5.1 is kicking in just fine. But when I flip back to a SD channel, the audio doesn't kick in. With "AutoDig" off, it says "Digital" (with no sound). and if I tun on "AutoDig", then it says "AnlgDSP," still with no sound.


If I then change inputs to something else and back to TV, it will come up with "Dolby D" again, and I will have the sound.


Does anyone know what is going on?


Thanks

Goatwuss


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I just got a used D2 delivered to me, and I have set it up with my Tivo.
> 
> 
> Something weird is going on. On a SD channel (480i etc) if I flip the input on the D2 to 'TV' I get sound, it says "Dolby D, AL-Cinema". When I then flip to a HD channel, DD 5.1 is kicking in just fine. But when I flip back to a SD channel, the audio doesn't kick in. With "AutoDig" off, it says "Digital" (with no sound). and if I tun on "AutoDig", then it says "AnlgDSP," still with no sound.
> 
> 
> If I then change inputs to something else and back to TV, it will come up with "Dolby D" again, and I will have the sound.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what is going on?



What is the Firmware version?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Using an outdated Setup Editor to Save/Restore your Setup menus on PC!*


Setup Editor (not to be confused with Live Video Settings Editor) is an Anthem Windows application for manipulating the Setup menu entries. In the past, it was most commonly used to backup a copy of all your Setup menu entries to a PC file and to restore the Anthem's Setup menu from such a file.


However, there is no current version of Setup Editor that works with the latest "official" release software, and there is not likely to be a new version soon.


But wait! There's a trick that will let you use an old Setup Editor with new Anthem firmware if all you want to do is save and restore the entire Setup menu on a PC! Here's Nick from Anthem in an email I received today:



> Quote:
> If you don't do anything that'll change file format, which includes editing
> 
> and saving, then an old version of Setup Editor would work - it's just a
> 
> memory dump. The key is to click only on "Save settings from unit to file"
> 
> and on "Load settings from file to unit" which will open a browser. Do not
> 
> click on "Open file".



If you have a firmware install kit from back in the V1.06 to V1.11 vintage, then you will find an older version of Setup Editor in that folder. I believe the last version of Setup Editor that made it out to the public was the V1.10 version that was in the V1.10 and V1.11 firmware install kits.


I have not yet tried this trick myself, so take this with a grain of salt until we get some reports that it is working as described with the latest Anthem firmware. Also, understand that there might be issues if you take a saved Setup menu from one version of the firmware and Load it to another version of the firmware as the internal format of the Setup menu entries sometimes changes between versions.


=========================


ETA: Just got a follow-up from Nick that he has placed version V1.29e of Setup Editor in "Link 1" of the password protected download page. That version is still not fully compatible with the V1.3x firmware, but it's more up to date than the V1.10 stuff which was the last version I knew about. There is also a text file in there now which covers the same info I've got here in this post.

*WARNING: This version of Setup Editor is *NOT* fully compatible with V1.31 or V1.33 software! Use it *ONLY* for saving and restoring the entire set of Setup menu items, as a complete set, *DIRECTLY* to and from a PC file as described above and in that text file.*

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/14110991
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I just got a used D2 delivered to me, and I have set it up with my Tivo.
> 
> 
> Something weird is going on. On a SD channel (480i etc) if I flip the input on the D2 to 'TV' I get sound, it says "Dolby D, AL-Cinema". When I then flip to a HD channel, DD 5.1 is kicking in just fine. But when I flip back to a SD channel, the audio doesn't kick in. With "AutoDig" off, it says "Digital" (with no sound). and if I tun on "AutoDig", then it says "AnlgDSP," still with no sound.
> 
> 
> If I then change inputs to something else and back to TV, it will come up with "Dolby D" again, and I will have the sound.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what is going on?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Goatwuss



As NETROAMER implies, the most likely thing that's going on is that you need to update the firmware in your D2. HDMI from the Tivo boxes gave the Anthems fits in some versions of the firmware.


You can find your current firmware version by pressing Select once on the remote. The firmware version will come up at the end of the first line of text in the Front Panel display.


The latest "official" version of the D2 firmware is V1.33, available for download from the Anthem public download page:

http://www.sonicfrontiers.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


When you run the installer application, it will display a bunch of instructions. You will likely have to exit the installer to do some of the steps (such as making sure you have no powered HDMI connections, and Reloading Factory Defaults), then run the installer application again when you are ready to perform the install.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

i will be using a mac book pro with bootcamp to do the D2 upgrades and arc install, etc.

question: what windows os is best. i am a mac guy, and there are 10 versions(+) of xp/vista.

i am clueless!

then, there are reported compatability issues with mac/bootcamp/windows.

insight and recommendations are requested.

thx

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've been using Windows XP Home Edition on a MacBook with BootCamp. So far I've only used it for ARC and for Live Video Settings Editor. I'm using a Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter with it (along with the latest software driver from the Keyspan site).


I've not yet had the nerve to try doing an Anthem firmware install using that setup. I'm using an older Windows 2000 laptop with a real serial port for that.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14112573
> 
> 
> I've been using Windows XP Home Edition on a MacBook with BootCamp. So far I've only used it for ARC and for Live Video Settings Editor. I'm using a Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter with it (along with the latest software driver from the Keyspan site).
> 
> 
> I've not yet had the nerve to try doing an Anthem firmware install using that setup. I'm using an older Windows 2000 laptop with a real serial port for that.
> 
> --Bob



I used my laptop, which has XP and the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter, to upgrade my firmware for my D2 to 1.33, and I did not have a problem.


----------



## ensmarcum

I use my hp laptop with vista ultimate 64 and the keyspan usa-19hs usb/serial adapter. I have never had any problems with updates or arc.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14105501
> 
> 
> I do not know if there have been any last minute changes between D2 V1.32b and V1.33 other than the version number. I suspect not, but since V1.33 is now the "official" release, I'd suggest you upgrade to it and get it out of the way.
> 
> 
> The D2 manual says that when using ARC the "1 sub" setting is to be used whether or not you have more than 1 sub. This makes sense as all the 2 sub setting does is modify the volume at which the Setup / Speaker Calibration tones are sent out to make it easier for the user to use the same "noise level" despite the extra sub driver. ARC doesn't need that. The subwoofer volume trim levels it uploads also assume the "1 sub" setting. Since the D2 sends exactly the same signal to both subs (i.e., no separate controls for the second sub) you lose nothing by doing it this way. Both subs are driven (at the same time) when you do the sweeps because the 2 sub outputs of the D2 invariably carry the same signal (which includes the ARC test sweeps). I.e., ARC corrects for the pair of them as if they were one combined subwoofer.
> 
> --Bob



I'm not sure I understand. Are you saying I should set my speaker configuration to '1 sub' even though I have my 2 subs connected to the rca 'sub1' and 'sub 2' outputs on the rear panel of the D2? They are not Y'ed out of 'sub 1'.

I guess I should read the D2 ARC instructions again, but I don't remember seeing anything about in the instructions I recieved.

Tom


----------



## tngiloy

OK.

I updated to v1.33. I'm not sure it did anything from v1.32b except change the v number on the display, but it was painless.

I then reloaded my ARC settings, and again it set the D2 to 1 sub. I left it there and watched a movie on Dish and both subs turned on. The subs are set to 'auto', so they won't turn on unless they receive a signal, so apparently even though its set to '1 sub' a signal is being sent thru both sub connections.

I reread my D2 v1.3x manual and saw nothing in the ARC section about '1sub'. There must be an updated manual I can't find on the Anthem website.

Since my wife is in bed I will wait to do some critical listening to test the sub response. She gets a little testy when I wake her up on a work day.

I'm also waitng for my new toy, an Ayre cx-7e cdp, to test out the music configuration settings. I did watch 'Kill Bill' last night after putting in the new ARC settings (but setting to 2 subs) and it was exellent. Some of the effects were coming directly from the side, which may not seem like a big deal, but all my speakers are on the rear wall. There was a holographic effect I had never noticed before. The sounds that were coming from the side matched the action on the screen as far as position. Very cool.

I appreciate the D2 much more now than I did when I got it a few years ago. There aren't many things I can say that about. Maybe my wife, but don't tell her I said so.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14113161
> 
> 
> I'm not sure I understand. Are you saying I should set my speaker configuration to '1 sub' even though I have my 2 subs connected to the rca 'sub1' and 'sub 2' outputs on the rear panel of the D2? They are not Y'ed out of 'sub 1'.
> 
> I guess I should read the D2 ARC instructions again, but I don't remember seeing anything about in the instructions I recieved.
> 
> Tom



See Section 3.3, page 25, of the updated V1.3x Operating Manual:

http://www.sonicfrontiers.com/HTML/P...ual/D2_OM.html 


To wit: If you are using ARC with a subwoofer, use the "1 Sub" setting even if you have 2 (or more) subs.


The 4 sub outputs of the Anthem (2 RCA jacks and 2 XLR jacks) all carry the identical signal regardless of the 1 sub or 2 subs setting -- you don't need any Y-splitter. (EXCEPTION: The XLR jacks follow the XLR standard, which means they are 6dB higher in volume than the RCA jacks -- see Section 2.2 of the manual. Usually this is automatically compensated at the XLR input of the subwoofer.)


The "2 subs" setting only has the effect of altering the calibration tone sent to the subwoofers when you perform the Setup / Level Calibration test tones. I.e., this is just a convenience setting for the user doing manual setup. ARC doesn't need that.


When you Upload ARC results that include a subwoofer, it resets the setting to 1 Sub to match the calibration levels it is also uploading. So an ARC Upload sets things up properly for you. But if you then go in and change the setting back to 2 subs, and then run the Level Calibration tones for a manual double check, the subwoofer level ARC uploaded will measure wrong.


So just leave things at the "1 sub" setting ARC applies when you Upload the ARC results.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Thanks Bob,

I see it now. I was looking in the wrong section. I was hoping I wouldn't have to re-read the whole manual to find any changes.

Tom


----------



## AV-NUT-99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/14039457
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I couldn't agree more. We could meet at Hank's but we'd have to sit in the dark.
> 
> 
> Seriously it is a testament to this technology that it has sustained this incredible level of continuing interest and involvement from such a worldwide diverse group. Although, there have been significant improvements in other 'competing technologies' in the last year.....they are still playing catch-up to the anthems and NONE of them have demonstrated the ongoing suite of improvements to the existing box (D2) nor are they even capable. I offer ARC as the prime example. There have been more improvements to ARC since its release to better the product than any other integrated or stand alone device on the market. What a phenomenal accomplishment!
> 
> 
> So yes Bob, I'm up for some sort of celebration at 15,000. Perhaps the fall conference in Denver???
> 
> 
> Peter



I feel I have to get my 2 cents in here as well. I invested 'mucho dinero' in a high end suround processor several years ago that was supposed to be fully upgradeable (like a computer chassis) where new cards could be added and old ones replaced in order to keep up with the latest changes in the industry. The original purchase price was more than twice the current price of the D2. A few years later, I had it upgraded to 'level II' at a substantial cost as well. The unit certainly had very good sound quality for analog and standard DD and DTS, but virtually no increased video capability. They then released version III, and I was considering that upgrade as well, but again no improvements to the video side and the cost was again, quite substantial. I put off the level III upgrade for a couple of years, and it was then that I discovered the Anthem D1 and suggested that a friend cosider it for his theater. He agreed and we were both very impressed with the sound quality and its versatility.


A few months later, Anthem released the first D2 and I had to have one! It was not a decision to be taken lightly due to the investment I already had in the previous processor. I checked with the company to see what, if any, improvements were coming, especially on the video side and they were so far behind current technology with no clear path to catch up.


So....the old processor is now collecting dust on a closet shelf and I have been using the D2 for over a year and could not be more pleased. Sure, we have all had some issues with new FW and feature releases but my feeling is that by getting the updatess to everyone as soon as possible, Anthem is actually able to move ahead much more quickly than if they just relied on their own internal testing, waiting to release a 'perfect' product or update. There are just too many combinations of components and configurations in use. Even if Anthem wanted to, there is no way they could ever possibly test all combinations. So we end up seeing some glitches, even in those for general public release. I am just so pleased that there are so many hard working customers that are willing to take the time to keep us informed (I mean you Bob P.). When you take all of this into consideration, the Anthem D2 has to be the greatest AV product ever and I just wanted to thank Anthem and all the supporters on this forum for their contributions and assistance. This whole project of bringing the D2 to market, and constantly improving it is a wonderful example of team work and cooperation between a manufacturer and their customers. When we all work together and show a little patience and understanding of the difficulties and complexities involved with the D2, we get very positive results. I will get off my soap box now but I had to let everyone know how I felt and how much I appreciate everyones contributions to making the D2 what it is today. The pleasure my feinds, family and I receive from the great Video and Audio we experience with the D2 (and my Signature Paradigms)......PRICELESS!!!!


PS, if anything gets setup for Denver - I would love to be a part of it.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV-NUT-99* /forum/post/14114303
> 
> 
> So....the old processor is now collecting dust on a closet shelf ...



John- Try selling it on Audiogon . Even if you don't need the money, it feels better to get something for it rather than have it sitting around as a reminder. I change theater components on a regular basis and have used audiogon to sell the outgoing piece.


Now that I mention it, it's time for a new projector, if something really impressive comes out after CES.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm getting more details from Nick at Anthem, but I've got some preliminary results as regards the YCbCr 4:2:2 capabilities of the AVM-50 and D2:


Apparently the Anthems support HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 input or output at either 8 bits per component (16 bits per pixel) or 12 bits per component (24 bits per pixel).


The default HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4 is, of course, always 8 bits per component (24 bits per pixel).


See the Data Format posts in the collection of links in the first post of this thread for further explanation of the differences and why you might want to experiment with YCbCr 4:2:2 input or output.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

a short thank-you for the postings related to windows software. i think i'll go with xp, as there seems to be fewer reported issues - this from the gent who sold the d2 / p5 to me.

and, yes, i have the keyspan adapter.

my 'arc' is due in next wed., and then the fun truly begins. (ARC comes in - is that like saying my ship is coming in?!)

walt


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14112573
> 
> 
> I've been using Windows XP Home Edition on a MacBook with BootCamp. So far I've only used it for ARC and for Live Video Settings Editor. I'm using a Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter with it (along with the latest software driver from the Keyspan site).
> 
> 
> I've not yet had the nerve to try doing an Anthem firmware install using that setup. I'm using an older Windows 2000 laptop with a real serial port for that.
> 
> --Bob



I *HAVE* successfully used Bootcamp, Windows XP, and the Keyspan USA-19HS USB adapter from my MacBook Pro, to both upload the latest D2 firmware, and to upload ARC parameters to my D2 (using the latest 1.2.2 of ARC). Everything looks and sounds wonderful.


Note that previously (prior to 1.2.2 of ARC) I had problems with ARC parameter upload from my Mac, and was instead forced to use an ancient Windows 2000 laptop with a serial port. So the latest ARC software has now made it "safe" for me to use my Mac.


- Dave


----------



## dwwhitley

Edited for failure to properly read post.


Any new information on the ..."480i/60 to 1080p/24 and 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversions when viewing "film-based" content"?


----------



## jayray

Bob,


My XA2 at 1080p/24 is showing 4:2:2 in the input status of the gennum. The ps3 showing 4:4:4. However if I change the video output in the anthem to either of those settings, picture is either pink or granular. Only works on my pj with studio RGB out no matter what comes in.


John


----------



## ensmarcum

OKAY! I just got my Klipsch THX Ultra 2 system, and I have only hooked up the front three speakers, which are sitting on the carpetted floor, and they sound just ok so far. I am not floored yet. Once I get the system setup and all the speakers inplace I will let you guys know how it sounds. I have heard great things from this speaker system but as of now I cant say anything over the top but we will see. I will have it setup and use arc and report what I get.


----------



## Korey




Kal Rubinson said:


> seismo said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14104983
> 
> 
> Not for me. Got 100Hz consistently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Received my ARC kit this week for my D1, upgraded to 1.33 and Arc 1.2.2 My sub crossover is 70Hz same as it was with Arc 1.2.1 and 1.31, Paradigm Studio Ref v.2 speakers & Bryston Power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loving the results of the Arc Calibration.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## Kal Rubinson




Korey said:


> Kal Rubinson said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14105312
> 
> 
> 
> Received my ARC kit this week for my D1, upgraded to 1.33 and Arc 1.2.2 My sub crossover is 70Hz same as it was with Arc 1.2.1 and 1.31, Paradigm Studio Ref v.2 speakers & Bryston Power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I guess we've proved that there isn't a glitch that fixes the number.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Loving the results or the Arc Calibration.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Me, too.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14105312
> 
> 
> Loving the results or the Arc Calibration.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14105679
> 
> 
> Me, too.



Try to contain yourself, Kal.










Seriously, glad you like it.

Will we be seeing a review or perhaps a comparo with Audyssey in the future?


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/14120414
> 
> 
> Will we be seeing a review or perhaps a comparo with Audyssey in the future?



Both, in good time.


----------



## seismo




Kal Rubinson said:


> Korey said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14105679
> 
> 
> Well, I guess we've proved that there isn't a glitch that fixes the number.
> 
> 
> Me, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Korey said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kal Rubinson said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14105312
> 
> 
> 
> Received my ARC kit this week for my D1, upgraded to 1.33 and Arc 1.2.2 My sub crossover is 70Hz same as it was with Arc 1.2.1 and 1.31, Paradigm Studio Ref v.2 speakers & Bryston Power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loving the results or the Arc Calibration.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Well I am glad to hear that.
> 
> 
> The odd thing is that I am also using Paradigm studio (Ref v.3) all around and a servo-15 sub. I tried ARC v1.2.2 (D2 v1.31c) last night with the same results (sub xover=120Hz.).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## goatwuss




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14112133
> 
> 
> As NETROAMER implies, the most likely thing that's going on is that you need to update the firmware in your D2. HDMI from the Tivo boxes gave the Anthems fits in some versions of the firmware.
> 
> 
> You can find your current firmware version by pressing Select once on the remote. The firmware version will come up at the end of the first line of text in the Front Panel display.
> 
> 
> The latest "official" version of the D2 firmware is V1.33, available for download from the Anthem public download page:
> 
> http://www.sonicfrontiers.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html
> 
> 
> When you run the installer application, it will display a bunch of instructions. You will likely have to exit the installer to do some of the steps (such as making sure you have no powered HDMI connections, and Reloading Factory Defaults), then run the installer application again when you are ready to perform the install.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the help. The version is 1.31. Is that a version where the Tivo had HDMI issues?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14119758
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> My XA2 at 1080p/24 is showing 4:2:2 in the input status of the gennum. The ps3 showing 4:4:4. However if I change the video output in the anthem to either of those settings, picture is either pink or granular. Only works on my pj with studio RGB out no matter what comes in.
> 
> 
> John



Do you have a DVI projector? DVI displays will normally insist upon RGB.


By the way, there is no problem with YCbCr in (either format) and RGB out. The Anthem takes care of the conversion just fine.


Have you tried setting your XA2 to YCbCr 4:4:4 output to the Anthem for comparison?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/14121098
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help. The version is 1.31. Is that a version where the Tivo had HDMI issues?



Actually that version is suppose to work well with the Tivo. You might want to give Anthem tech support a call and see if they have any additional information. Have the version and firmware level of your Tivo handy when you call as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dwwhitley* /forum/post/14119648
> 
> 
> Edited for failure to properly read post.
> 
> 
> Any new information on the ..."480i/60 to 1080p/24 and 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversions when viewing "film-based" content"?



Not yet. Stay tuned....

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14120776
> 
> 
> The odd thing is that I am also using Paradigm studio (Ref v.3) all around and a servo-15 sub. I tried ARC v1.2.2 (D2 v1.31c) last night with the same results (sub xover=120Hz.).



This may be more of a reflection (no pun intended - OK, maybe a little bit







) on your room than your speakers.


Remember that the ARC-1 is measuring how your speakers sound in a specific room and at a specific location in that room.


I think most people don't have any idea how much their room is part of their listening experience. I've found some thing I MUST take care of in my theater due to looking at the ARC results. More bass trapping and dealing with some bad slapback modes in the 3.5 KHz region.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV-NUT-99* /forum/post/14114303
> 
> 
> I feel I have to get my 2 cents in here as well. I invested 'mucho dinero' in a high end suround processor several years ago that was supposed to be fully upgradeable (like a computer chassis) where new cards could be added and old ones replaced in order to keep up with the latest changes in the industry. The original purchase price was more than twice the current price of the D2. A few years later, I had it upgraded to 'level II' at a substantial cost as well. The unit certainly had very good sound quality for analog and standard DD and DTS, but virtually no increased video capability. They then released version III, and I was considering that upgrade as well, but again no improvements to the video side and the cost was again, quite substantial. I put off the level III upgrade for a couple of years, and it was then that I discovered the Anthem D1 and suggested that a friend cosider it for his theater. He agreed and we were both very impressed with the sound quality and its versatility.
> 
> 
> A few months later, Anthem released the first D2 and I had to have one! It was not a decision to be taken lightly due to the investment I already had in the previous processor. I checked with the company to see what, if any, improvements were coming, especially on the video side and they were so far behind current technology with no clear path to catch up.
> 
> 
> So....the old processor is now collecting dust on a closet shelf and I have been using the D2 for over a year and could not be more pleased. Sure, we have all had some issues with new FW and feature releases but my feeling is that by getting the updatess to everyone as soon as possible, Anthem is actually able to move ahead much more quickly than if they just relied on their own internal testing, waiting to release a 'perfect' product or update. There are just too many combinations of components and configurations in use. Even if Anthem wanted to, there is no way they could ever possibly test all combinations. So we end up seeing some glitches, even in those for general public release. I am just so pleased that there are so many hard working customers that are willing to take the time to keep us informed (I mean you Bob P.). When you take all of this into consideration, the Anthem D2 has to be the greatest AV product ever and I just wanted to thank Anthem and all the supporters on this forum for their contributions and assistance. This whole project of bringing the D2 to market, and constantly improving it is a wonderful example of team work and cooperation between a manufacturer and their customers. When we all work together and show a little patience and understanding of the difficulties and complexities involved with the D2, we get very positive results. I will get off my soap box now but I had to let everyone know how I felt and how much I appreciate everyones contributions to making the D2 what it is today. The pleasure my feinds, family and I receive from the great Video and Audio we experience with the D2 (and my Signature Paradigms)......PRICELESS!!!!
> 
> 
> PS, if anything gets setup for Denver - I would love to be a part of it.



John

Just so you do not feel alone. I too have a C********* sitting in a box collecting dust.

The first indication something was wrong was the outboard 6 channel "adapter". Where were the new plugin circuit boards for their upgrades ?

Audio wise great sounding but a bad implementation.

I could not believe that a company who was ahead in audio technology suddenly could not grasp the direction the market was going and develop the technology to pursue it.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14121167
> 
> 
> Do you have a DVI projector? DVI displays will normally insist upon RGB.
> 
> 
> By the way, there is no problem with YCbCr in (either format) and RGB out. The Anthem takes care of the conversion just fine.
> 
> 
> Have you tried setting your XA2 to YCbCr 4:4:4 output to the Anthem for comparison?
> 
> --Bob



Will try this afternoon. I presume you are suggesting I set the Anthem for 444 in the video output setup menu since the XA2 has no option for this. My pj has a DVI in so I use an HDMI - DVI adaptor


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14120516
> 
> 
> Both, in good time.



Anxious to read that!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14122837
> 
> 
> Will try this afternoon. I presume you are suggesting I set the Anthem for 444 in the video output setup menu since the XA2 has no option for this. My pj has a DVI in so I use an HDMI - DVI adaptor



No, the setting would have to be made on the input side -- i.e., in the XA2. The output settings from the Anthem won't have any effect on what it is seeing as input.


I'm surprised the XA2 has no setting to send out YCbCr 4:4:4 to the Anthem, since that is the default format for HDMI to HDMI connections (even when YCbCr 4:2:2 might actually work better).


---------------------------


And again, since your projector uses a DVI input it is quite normal for the projector to want RGB format to be sent to it from the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Unclejeff

jayray


I had some of these problems with other equipment using the HDMI-DVI adaptor. Then I got a decent HDMI-DVI cable which served two purposes. First, the heavy adptor was no longer supported by the HDMI port and the connections were better and I got a better picture. You will read in the Anthem manual "do not use a HDMI-DVI adaptor..."


This suggestion might not improve your picture but is will probably 'support' your HDMI port.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Unclejeff* /forum/post/14123511
> 
> 
> jayray
> 
> 
> I had some of these problems with other equipment using the HDMI-DVI adaptor. Then I got a decent HDMI-DVI cable which served two purposes. First, the heavy adptor was no longer supported by the HDMI port and the connections were better and I got a better picture. You will read in the Anthem manual "do not use a HDMI-DVI adaptor..."
> 
> 
> This suggestion might not improve your picture but is will probably 'support' your HDMI port.



I agree that "HDMI/DVI adapters" are a bad idea. In addition to putting extra "lever arm" mechanical strain on the socket, there's a whole new connection point between the cable and one side of the adapter, which in and of itself will add signal degradation.


When connecting the Anthem to a DVI source or display device, you really should do it ONLY with an HDMI to DVI cable of the right length and suitable quality (e.g., Blue Jeans cable).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Definitive YCbCr 4:4:4 vs. YCbCr 4:2:2 vs. RGB Data Format Sizing Info from Anthem!*


The following information has been confirmed with Anthem for the AVM-50 and Statement D2:


HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4 input or output is always 8 bits per component (24 bits per pixel).


HDMI RGB (Studio or Extended) input or output is always 8 bits per component (24 bits per pixel).


HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 input or output can be either 8 bits per component (16 bits per pixel) or 12 bits per component (24 bits per pixel) -- according to the max allowed by the device at the other end of the cable -- but with the horizontal color resolution halved. Like this: YCb, YCr, YCb, YCr, etc.


NOTE: HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 at 10 bits per component (20 bits per pixel) is not supported. Nor is "Deep Color" HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4 (i.e., more than 8 bits per component / 24 bits per pixel).


Any of the above input HDMI YCbCr streams is accepted by the Gennum VXP video processor chip at the full 8 or 12 bits per component (as described above) but is immediately converted to 10 bits per component RGB (30 bits per pixel) - using high precision color conversion matrices - prior to other internal processing inside the VXP.


"High precision color conversion matrices", here, means that the constants and math used in the conversion are actually higher resolution than the data stream (in or out) so that the color conversion process itself introduces no quality degradation.


An input HDMI RGB stream is accepted by the VXP at 8 bits per component and is extended to 10 bits per component (30 bits per pixel) prior to its internal processing.


The VXP does all the rest of its internal processing (de-interlacing, scaling, gamma correction, etc.) using 10 bits per component (30 bits per pixel) RGB.


If 12-bit YCbCr 4:2:2 is to be used for output, the VXP, at the end of its processing, converts its results to 12 bit per component (24 bits per pixel) using high precision color conversion matrices.


If 8-bit YCbCr 4:2:2 is to be used for output, the VXP, at the end of its processing, converts its results to 8 bit per component (16 bits per pixel) using high precision color conversion matrices.


If YCbCr 4:4:4 output is to be used the VXP converts its results to 8 bits per component (24 bits per pixel) -- again using high precision color conversion matrices.


Finally, if RGB output is to be used the VXP rounds its results to 8 bits per component (24 bits per pixel).


---------------------------------------------------


Again, see the links collected in the first post of this thread (Technology and Terminology / Data Format section) for a more detailed explanation of the differences between these data formats and why you might want to experiment with 12 bit YCbCr 4:2:2 data format when using source or display devices that allow it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

LEVESQUE, I suggest that post (^^^) be added to the links in the Data Format section in the first post.

--Bob


----------



## tyorder1

I am having trouble with my Denon 3800 Blu-ray outputing 1080p through the anthem to my projector. I can only get 720p/1080i through the Anthem. When I connect the 3800 direclty to my projector everything is fine and I get 1080p. So, I've pinned the problem down to the Anthem. Anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14123989
> 
> 
> I agree that "HDMI/DVI adapters" are a bad idea. In addition to putting extra "lever arm" mechanical strain on the socket, there's a whole new connection point between the cable and one side of the adapter, which in and of itself will add signal degradation.
> 
> 
> When connecting the Anthem to a DVI source or display device, you really should do it ONLY with an HDMI to DVI cable of the right length and suitable quality (e.g., Blue Jeans cable).
> 
> --Bob



I am at 3yrs with my present pj. Didn't want to buy another cable, 40 ft. is the length, due to the fact my next one will have hdmi connections. Picture still looks very good according to my calibrator Michael TLV










John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tyorder1* /forum/post/14125779
> 
> 
> I am having trouble with my Denon 3800 Blu-ray outputing 1080p through the anthem to my projector. I can only get 720p/1080i through the Anthem. When I connect the 3800 direclty to my projector everything is fine and I get 1080p. So, I've pinned the problem down to the Anthem. Anyone have any suggestions?



What version of firmware are you running in the Anthem, and do you have HDMI cables that are tested to handle 1080p video?


You can see the version number of the Anthem by pressing Select once on its remote. The version number will come up at the end of the first line of info in the Front Panel display. The most recent firmware release is V1.33.


Next, can you get the Anthem to output 1080p to your projector when displaying the Anthem's internally generated test patterns (Video Source Adjust / Patterns menu)? If not, then the problem is in your Setup / Video Output configuration in the Anthem as those test patterns are independent of any input source.


If you CAN get the test patterns to display at 1080p in your projector, then the problem is on the input side of things in the Anthem.


Are you trying to send 1080p/24 or 1080p/60 from the Denon to the Anthem? To get 1080p/60 you must use HDMI cable (not Component video cable). Are you trying to send 1080p/24 to your projector from the Anthem?


This Denon has a known problem that it sends out an incorrect 1080p/24 video signal. This is not an issue for displays and projectors, but is a big problem for video processors. I'm pretty sure by now that there's been a firmware fix from Denon for it to correct that, but your unit may not have that applied yet. Try 1080p/60 instead for now.


If you have Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = AUTO set for the Denon input in the Anthem, try turning that OFF.


These are the basics to get us started. Again, the first step is to see if the output side of the Anthem is working at 1080p to your projector (using the Anthem's internal test patterns). That will tell you whether the issue you need to fix is on the input or output side of the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

I have a Marantz S3 projector that is over 4 years old. DVI out. So, used a dvi adaptor on both ends with hdmi cable. Now with the D2, I only have the adaptor on the projector. New hdmi 1080p projector at the end of year. Maybe another Marantz. But, the picture with the D2 is still super wonderful.


----------



## tyorder1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14126271
> 
> 
> What version of firmware are you running in the Anthem, and do you have HDMI cables that are tested to handle 1080p video?
> 
> 
> You can see the version number of the Anthem by pressing Select once on its remote. The version number will come up at the end of the first line of info in the Front Panel display. The most recent firmware release is V1.33.
> 
> 
> Next, can you get the Anthem to output 1080p to your projector when displaying the Anthem's internally generated test patterns (Video Source Adjust / Patterns menu)? If not, then the problem is in your Setup / Video Output configuration in the Anthem as those test patterns are independent of any input source.
> 
> 
> If you CAN get the test patterns to display at 1080p in your projector, then the problem is on the input side of things in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Are you trying to send 1080p/24 or 1080p/60 from the Denon to the Anthem? To get 1080p/60 you must use HDMI cable (not Component video cable). Are you trying to send 1080p/24 to your projector from the Anthem?
> 
> 
> This Denon has a known problem that it sends out an incorrect 1080p/24 video signal. This is not an issue for displays and projectors, but is a big problem for video processors. I'm pretty sure by now that there's been a firmware fix from Denon for it to correct that, but your unit may not have that applied yet. Try 1080p/60 instead for now.
> 
> 
> If you have Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = AUTO set for the Denon input in the Anthem, try turning that OFF.
> 
> 
> These are the basics to get us started. Again, the first step is to see if the output side of the Anthem is working at 1080p to your projector (using the Anthem's internal test patterns). That will tell you whether the issue you need to fix is on the input or output side of the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



I have been running 1080p from the ps3 for over a year with no problems.


The firmware I have on the Anthem is the 1.31. The Denon blu-ray is brand new and it will display p60 when directly connected to the projector but will not display when the blu-ray goes through the Anthem.


The projector is the Ruby and I'm using the Anthem to send 48p to the projector through DVI. The problem I'm running into is when I try to send 1080p60 through the Anthem I find that nothing happens with the HDMI or DVI cables but the 1080p48 works?? I'm totally puzzled. Any thoughts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tyorder1* /forum/post/14127381
> 
> 
> I have been running 1080p from the ps3 for over a year with no problems.
> 
> 
> The firmware I have on the Anthem is the 1.31. The Denon blu-ray is brand new and it will display p60 when directly connected to the projector but will not display when the blu-ray goes through the Anthem.
> 
> 
> The projector is the Ruby and I'm using the Anthem to send 48p to the projector through DVI. The problem I'm running into is when I try to send 1080p60 through the Anthem I find that nothing happens with the HDMI or DVI cables but the 1080p48 works?? I'm totally puzzled. Any thoughts?



Yes, I think you've been bitten by this: /60 to /24 or /48 conversion is not working in the Anthem.


Try sending 1080p/24 to the Anthem (when playing normal, film-based Blu-Ray movies) and then you should be able to output 1080p/48 to your projector (presuming your Denon has that firmware fix I mentioned).


You may need to set up a second Video Output configuration in the Anthem, or use Frame Lock, when playing 1080i/60 Blu-Ray discs.


Or perhaps I'm misunderstanding what you are trying to do. We have other Ruby owners on this thread who may be able to help here.

--Bob


----------



## ditcin

Hi all,

I just got my ARC-1 and can't upload the settings. I keep getting an error message stating that the sub needs to be set at -21 I've lowered the sub's amp volume down all the way and it does't seem to matter. The error message states because of this it couldn't load the messured settings - yet, when I go into speaker cal. I find the volume levels have been altered from my original setting; but there is no mention of arc in any of the menus or sub-menus, or on the pannel display.


The D2 unit was upgraded to v1.22 without a hitch, and my sub is an Axiom EP600

HELP!

Thanks.

Scott


----------



## slots1

On the D2 you have to be on at least version 1.31. The Anthem site has 1.33 on it now. Then you will see room correction on each source menu.


----------



## ditcin

I'm sorry, I mean to say I had v1.22 but did the upgrade to 1.33 It loaded fine but I'm still getting the error message stating the sub needs to be set to -21, and that the arc setting can't be uploaded.

-Scott


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC apparently zeroes out your speaker calibration settings prior to measurement and then restores them when the measurements are completed. If something fails during the measurements I don't believe this restore still happens.


[Of course when you do an Upload of ARC results, your speaker calibration settings are replaced with the ones ARC has calculated.]


If you have an up to date set of Saved User Settings or Saved Installer Settings you can reload your settings from either of those memories.


The only visible sign that ARC results have been uploaded is the adjusted cross over and speaker calibration values in your Setup menu. The Setup / Source Setup / Room EQ = ON/OFF setting is how you turn ARC processing on or off for any give input source. You need to manually turn that on (for EACH source input!) after the first ARC Upload to start using ARC's newly Uploaded results.


------------------------------------------


The speaker level calibration settings in the D2 have a limited range. You need to be sure ARC can get all of your speakers within this range.


Try this (you will need a Radio Shack SPL (sound pressure level) meter -- inexpensive and essential -- do not trust to doing this just by ear):


* Download and install D2 V1.33 firmware into the D2 -- follow the install instructions carefully. Download and install ARC V1.2.2 on your computer. Do not do ARC measurements yet. Both of these are on Anthem's public software download page for the D2.


* Set the SPL meter to Slow Response and "C" weighting.


* Go into Setup / Level Calibration in the D2.


* Set the level setting for the front left speaker to 0dB


* Set the level settings for the subwoofer (both Movie and Music) to 0dB


* In the first line of the menu, change the setting from OFF to Manual and then scroll down one line to the Noise Level setting.


* Using your SPL meter set pointing straight up at your center listening position (mic position #1 as used in ARC measurements), adjust the Noise Level setting up or down until the test noise now coming out of the front left speaker measures, roughly, 75dB.


* Leave the Noise Level at that setting. Next scroll to either of the subwoofer level setting lines -- which you set to 0dB above. LEAVE THEM at 0dB, but now use the volume control BUILT INTO YOUR SUBWOOFER to adjust its output, as measured by the SPL meter (same measurement location), to roughly 75dB.


* Finally, scroll to each of the other speaker level trim lines in turn and adjust their level trim up or down until each of them measures roughly 75dB -- all as measured from that same, single location of the SPL meter. While doing this, do NOT alter the Noise Level setting or subwoofer internal volume setting you have just made. As a check, the result for the Front Left speaker should remain 0dB as your Noise Level setting was previously set using the Front Left speaker (at 0dB) as the test speaker, so it needs no additional trim.


* You don't have to be super precise in doing this. You are just making sure all the speakers can be set to roughly 75dB this way. Now change the first line to OFF to turn the noise sound off and look at your level setting results. The Noise Level should still be as you set it in the first steps above. The trim levels for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer should still be 0dB because of how you were instructed to set things up. The levels for your OTHER speakers will likely be up or down a bit from 0dB, but none of them should be pegged at the +/- 10dB limit.


--------------------------------------


By doing this you've now insured that your subwoofer's internal volume control setting is set to a range that will allow ARC to balance all the speakers within the limits of the volume trim controls it has in the D2.


In addition, ARC uses the Noise Level setting you just made to determine the volume of its test sweep tones, and you have now set that Noise Level to produce a good volume for those test sweep tones.


Jot down the settings you now have in your Setup / Level Calibration menu just in case something goes wrong in the ARC stuff and you need to manually re-enter them. You can also do a Save User Settings and/or Save Installer Settings to get them saved into those memories.


-----------------------------------------


Now run your ARC measurements. Follow the instructions in section 3.15 of the new D2 V1.3x Operating Manual (available for download from the Anthem D2 site).


Note in particular the instructions on microphone positioning for the ARC measurements. For example, placing the mic too close to a wall in any of its positions will screw up bass measurements.


I suggest you run ARC in "advanced" mode so that you can see the charts it displays of the measurement results and view the Targets window showing the settings it selects after doing those measurments.


In "advanced" mode you will select each of the 3 phases in turn (Measurement, Calculate, Upload) so that you don't do the next one until you are ready.


The speaker volume trim levels that ARC Uploads may differ a bit from the ones you set using the SPL meter, but they should be CLOSE to those manually determined settings.


Does ARC *STILL* complain about your subwoofer's voluime? If so, screen capture ARC's Measurement charts and post them here. Folks may have some suggestions for you based on that. You may also need to call Anthem tech support for advice. You have proven, from the Level Calibration stuff you did above, that your subwoofer's internal volume setting is in the correct range for calibration, so something is either screwed up in the way you are making the ARC measurements or you have found a new bug in ARC.


Again, do this with D2 V1.33 installed and using V1.2.2 of the ARC application as both of these have improvements over the older versions and they are intended to be used together as a set.

--Bob


----------



## ditcin

Bob,

Thanks for the lengthy answer. The only problem is that everything was zeroed out when I did the ARC. Since I had to install the V1.33 for the D2 I did that first and was told by Anthem to set the D2 at defult settings (I did wrote my settings down). So when it came time to do the ARC the D2 was already at default. I also tried to lower the sub volume control but when I got down to the lowest point I noticed that the ARC was over-riding it and putting out it's own volume level - it didn't matter what the volume level was on the sub. The next thing I tried was changing the sub's internal cut off from none to a lower one to lessen the amount of high pitched mid-bass from being picked up by the mic. I set it down to a cut off of 60 and found that the ARC complaint went up from - 21 to -17.

With all this does this mean I'm dealing with a bug? I'm willing to do what you posted but I just want to know if there is a real shot it might work since I have to bring down my PC (desktop) from upstairs and truthfully this whole thing has been a major pain in the ass.

(I was told by Anthem to purchase a cable for ARC and what kind. Drove 20 mins (yikes, gas prices here in NY, then found the same cable was included in the kit, but not listed as such. The cable wasn't what I needed with my laptop and I didn't want to order the proper one for $40 so I just used my PC. This isn't fun)

Bob, why would the ARC override the subs internal volume setting to play the test signal?

- Scott


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14131293
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for the lengthy answer. The only problem is that everything was zeroed out when I did the ARC. Since I had to install the V1.33 for the D2 I did that first and was told by Anthem to set the D2 at defult settings (I did wrote my settings down). So when it came time to do the ARC the D2 was already at default. I also tried to lower the sub volume control but when I got down to the lowest point I noticed that the ARC was over-riding it and putting out it's own volume level - it didn't matter what the volume level was on the sub. The next thing I tried was changing the sub's internal cut off from none to a lower one to lessen the amount of high pitched mid-bass from being picked up by the mic. I set it down to a cut off of 60 and found that the ARC complaint went up from - 21 to -17.
> 
> With all this does this mean I'm dealing with a bug? I'm willing to do what you posted but I just want to know if there is a real shot it might work since I have to bring down my PC (desktop) from upstairs and truthfully this whole thing has been a major pain in the ass.
> 
> (I was told by Anthem to purchase a cable for ARC and what kind. Drove 20 mins (yikes, gas prices here in NY, then found the same cable was included in the kit, but not listed as such. The cable wasn't what I needed with my laptop and I didn't want to order the proper one for $40 so I just used my PC. This isn't fun)
> 
> Bob, why would the ARC override the subs internal volume setting to play the test signal?
> 
> - Scott



Scott,

The volume setting I'm talking about is a volume control on your subwoofer itself, *NOT* the one in the D2 menus.


The volume settings in the D2 menus adjust the output of the D2. ARC has to zero them out prior to doing its measurements to get unbiased measurements. Then it calculates what they SHOULD be set to and Uploads the new volume settings as part of Uploading the ARC results.


However those volume trim settings have a range limit of +/- 10dB. If the *INTERNAL* volume control in your subwoofer is set incorrectly, there won't be enough adjustment range in the D2 menu for ARC to bring the subwoofer into balance with the rest of your speakers.


SILLLY EXAMPLE TO GET THE POINT ACROSS: If you unplug your subwoofer, there is no setting ARC can make in the D2 menus to get the volume right from your subwoofer.


LESS SILLY EXAMPLE: If the internal volume control inside your subwoofer is set too high, the -10dB limit on the adjustment inside the D2 won't give ARC enough range to bring the subwoofer volume back down to where it needs to be.


The procedure I set down for you is a way to find the correct *INTERNAL* volume control setting *INSIDE* your subwoofer. With that set, ARC will do its measurements with the Sub output volume in the D2 set to 0 dB (so the measurements aren't biased by any possibly incorrect volume trim settings you have manually set before running ARC) and will then Upload a corrected D2 Sub output volume based on what it measures.


The only setting ARC depends on in that Setup / Level Calibration menu is the "Noise Level" setting, which ARC uses to produce the correct output volume for its test sweep tones. But only you can adjust the volume knob on the subwoofer itself. And you have to do that before running ARC to make sure your subwoofer's output is within the range ARC can correct.

--Bob


----------



## ditcin









Bob,

Did everything you told me. During the uploading of the speaker levels the following error came up, same as before, but a lower number. This doesn't make sense the settings were low and the signals coming out during test were incredibily lower.

- Scott


----------



## Massimo N

I just upgraded my AVM 30 to the AVM30-HD and I should receive it back next week (finally).


I have a really basic question about the HDMI inputs. Is there a way to select the input directly, or is the only way through cycling through each active input?


I have an Marantz 9200 so if there are pronto codes available I would appreciate it.


Sorry if this has been covered before, but I couldn't find the answer.


Thanx!- Mass


----------



## ditcin

Bob,

After going through everything you said again, the error message turned up but this time stating the subwoofer level needed to be -21 here are screen grabs of the actual levels.

Maybe you can come up with something - or else it's tech support on Monday.

- Scott


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The first error message you posted -- the one about failure to upload the -19.5 setting, is a verification failure from ARC. That means it tried to make the setting during the Upload, and then verify that it had been made correctly, but couldn't do so. Usually this is because there is something flakey about your serial connection between the computer and the D2.


But the fact that it was trying to set it to -19.5 dB doesn't sound right to me in the first place. Given the procedure I set out for you, ARC should have been trying to set the level for the subwoofer to something near 0dB. I think you'll need to give Anthem tech support a call and see if they can come up with something.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Massimo N* /forum/post/14131739
> 
> 
> I just upgraded my AVM 30 to the AVM30-HD and I should receive it back next week (finally).
> 
> 
> I have a really basic question about the HDMI inputs. Is there a way to select the input directly, or is the only way through cycling through each active input?
> 
> 
> I have an Marantz 9200 so if there are pronto codes available I would appreciate it.
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been covered before, but I couldn't find the answer.
> 
> 
> Thanx!- Mass



See Appendix A of the manual. There are 3-key sequences you can program into your remote for directly selecting each of the source inputs.

--Bob


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/14033742
> 
> 
> Now beginning to feel some apprehension about my upgrade to the D2 (ver 1.31) from the AVM50. The AVM50 worked flawlessly, and initially the D2 also worked flawlessly. The only change made was to swap out the 2 pieces of equipment.
> 
> 
> New experiences with the D2:
> 
> ** On 2 occasions starting the system the display had no video, the screen rapidly flashed green and magenta and on at least one of the occasions there were horizontal lines emanating from the right side of the display extending out approx 1/4 of the screen. This required several restarts of the D2 to display video properly.
> 
> 
> ** On many occasions (almost all) there is what I can best describe as a blinking issue where the video goes to black and immediately comes back. This is at random rates sometimes very quickly other times several minutes between and stops completely over time.
> 
> 
> ** Thinking I may have some HDMI cable or HDCP issues I switched the source and output to the component cables; at this time I discover that the video is ghosted this includes the D2 OSD.
> 
> 
> Re-checked the new manual, don't believe I have missed anything.
> 
> 
> Any ideas from others?



Just to close off this item as solved:

** A coule of additional problems rapidly developed, lost the OSD and could not get a s-video device(vcr) to output video thru the D2.


Talked with Anthem support, they requested I re-install 1.31 software. Did that and all problems went away except for the blinking to black. Somehow it must have gotten corrupted.


Started swapping out cables trying to resolve the blinking issue, and found the XBR3 has a bad HDMI socket. Changed to a different HDMI input and no more blinking, good thing it has 3 of them.


Lovin my D2 again.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14132507
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> After going through everything you said again, the error message turned up but this time stating the subwoofer level needed to be -21 here are screen grabs of the actual levels.
> 
> Maybe you can come up with something - or else it's tech support on Monday.
> 
> - Scott



I do the exact thing that Bob laid out for you, and I don't have any problems. I have 1.33 and 1.2.2, and all is well. After I complete ARC, my settings are near 0db. Some or minus and some are plus; but, they are near 0db.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/14132658
> 
> 
> Lovin my D2 again.



Then you'll need a few of these!

























--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14131735
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Did everything you told me. During the uploading of the speaker levels the following error came up, same as before, but a lower number. This doesn't make sense the settings were low and the signals coming out during test were incredibily lower.
> 
> - Scott



I just want to be sure that you re-Measured and re-Calculated with ARC after adjusting the sub's own, internal volume the way I stated. And then double check that the results you were Uploading were in fact the ones in the file were you just did the new Measurement and Calculation.


It would be be annoying to discover that things are working fine right now except that you accidentally tried to Upload your previous file of ARC results instead of the new run.

--Bob


----------



## ditcin

Bob,

I redid everything - when it was time to load the new settings it went fine until the final speaker settings, that's when the D2 shut down and error screen came up (same as all the other times) Along with that error message a prior message stated that no changes were made due to.... then the error screen i sent you pops up.

This is VERY ANNOYING. I know the cable that came with the unit is working since the upgrade for the D2 went fine. I'm using my PC so I know it's not a slow laptop or battery issue. I disconnected the HDMI cables from the D2. I even made sure my Virus scan was off. ( also did it with it on to see if that would cause an issue)

- Scott


BTW- I deleted the previous ARC saved settings on my PC with every new so I wouldn't make the mistake of re-loading old ones.


----------



## Massimo N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14132620
> 
> 
> See Appendix A of the manual. There are 3-key sequences you can program into your remote for directly selecting each of the source inputs.
> 
> --Bob



Thanx!! - Mass


----------



## ninja12

I posted and earlier post about ARC 1.2.2 setting the crossover for my sub to 120hz. I was concerned about the sub being directional. Well, that concern is no longer a concern. I watched "Live Free Die Hard", "Casino Royale", "3:10 To Yuma", and "300", and all of them sounded great. The sound was just completely outstanding. The bass was not boomy, overwhelming, or loud. It was just perfect. I guess the ARC really does know what's best. After all when it comes to sound, it's not about what you see; it's about what you hear.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14132758
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I redid everything - when it was time to load the new settings it went fine until the final speaker settings, that's when the D2 shut down and error screen came up (same as all the other times) Along with that error message a prior message stated that no changes were made due to.... then the error screen i sent you pops up.
> 
> This is VERY ANNOYING. I know the cable that came with the unit is working since the upgrade for the D2 went fine. I'm using my PC so I know it's not a slow laptop or battery issue. I disconnected the HDMI cables from the D2. I even made sure my Virus scan was off. ( also did it with it on to see if that would cause an issue)
> 
> - Scott
> 
> 
> BTW- I deleted the previous ARC saved settings on my PC with every new so I wouldn't make the mistake of re-loading old ones.



I think you've done everything you can try on your own, short of moving the results file to a new computer and trying the ARC Upload from there.


I think you need to give Anthem tech support a call on Monday.


The verification of the uploaded speaker volumes was something that was added in V1.31c, so it's been working for a while for many folks, but the thing that's really puzzling to me is why ARC is even TRYING to set a -19.5dB value for your subwoofer. Anthem may need to have you email them your ARC results file to see if it is corrupted somehow. Be sure to explain to them what you did (the procedure I set out for you) to pre-set the internal volume in your subwoofer prior to doing the ARC measurements.


That procedure SHOULD result in ARC trying to Upload a subwoofer volume level near 0dB. -19.5dB is way far off.


NOTE: The test tone sweeps that ARC uses are not particularly loud, and in particular the subwoofer test sweep will sound fairly quiet (particular since much of the frequency it is sweeping through is subsonic). So the lower test sweeps you are now hearing from the subwoofer portion of the ARC measurements make sense.


----------------------------


Have you double checked that the Setup / Level Calibration / Noise Level setting was still correct (as per the procedure I set out for you) before re-doing the ARC measurements? I.e., is there any chance this ARC failure is altering that setting as well so that you have to manually re-set it before re-running ARC measurements?

--Bob


----------



## ditcin

Bob,

After I did the level calibration/noise level stting (as per the procedure you suggested ) I saved those settings as "Installer", then I shut off the D2 unit, waited, then turned on the D2 again to check if those setting were still in place - they were.

After I re-did the ACR I checked the setting each time and found them changed EG: the Left Front Speaker original set to 0 was now -5

So yes, I had to re-set it back to the Istaller's Setting I saved it in to start fresh. I also tried it without putting in those Installer's Settings and just over wrote during the next ACR - it was alway overwritten.


The only thing I have to do is delete the ARC from my PC and re-enstall it and try again from the Installer's Settings in hops the ARC program didn't install correctly. This seems strange since it is doing eveything up to the point of installing the ARC speaker settings, but I don't know what else to do. I know one thing, I'm more than annoyed and as of now wouldn't recommend the added expense since it seems like such a picky and sensitive add-on. My PC is just a year old, quite powerful, and fast. I'm not paying an additional $40 to get what I need to use my laptop. At that point I would just ask for my money back.

This turned out to be a birthday present to myself and it stinks.

Thank you Bob for being there and trying to sort this out. I will keep you updated after I deal with Anthem on Monday.

All the best,

Scott


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14133033
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> After I did the level calibration/noise level stting (as per the procedure you suggested ) I saved those settings as "Installer", then I shut off the D2 unit, waited, then turned on the D2 again to check if those setting were still in place - they were.
> 
> After I re-did the ACR I checked the setting each time and found them changed EG: the Left Front Speaker original set to 0 was now -5
> 
> So yes, I had to re-set it back to the Istaller's Setting I saved it in to start fresh. I also tried it without putting in those Installer's Settings and just over wrote during the next ACR - it was alway overwritten.
> 
> 
> The only thing I have to do is delete the ARC from my PC and re-enstall it and try again from the Installer's Settings in hops the ARC program didn't install correctly. This seems strange since it is doing eveything up to the point of installing the ARC speaker settings, but I don't know what else to do. I know one thing, I'm more than annoyed and as of now wouldn't recommend the added expense since it seems like such a picky and sensitive add-on. My PC is just a year old, quite powerful, and fast. I'm not paying an additional $40 to get what I need to use my laptop. At that point I would just ask for my money back.
> 
> This turned out to be a birthday present to myself and it stinks.
> 
> Thank you Bob for being there and trying to sort this out. I will keep you updated after I deal with Anthem on Monday.
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Scott



Have you tried re-installing 1.33 for your D2 and 1.2.2 for the ARC? If you have not, then you might want to give that a try. What you are posting is a first; but, as the saying goes, there's a first time for everything. I understand that your are upset and annoyed right now; but, don't give up. The end result is very, very, very rewarding. You have run into a glitched that I am sure can be resolved. But, for now, I would say to re-install v1.33 and 1.2.2. Good luck.


----------



## AnthemAVM

I did the ARC upgrade tonight and it worked without a hit. Used a laptop with Vista and the Keyspan USB to RS232. Yahoo.


The biggest thing that I notice is my surround sound speakers are much more noticable in the room. The bass is a little to low for my liking, but I did a quick 5 measurement, so I am sure I have some tweaking.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ditcin,

If you haven't had contact with Anthem tech support before, I think you are in for a nice surprise. They'll be all over this one. What you are experiencing is highly unusual. I don't think we've had any similar reports here.


They WILL get it working for you. Hang in there.


And by all means keep us informed of the progress.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14133891
> 
> 
> I did the ARC upgrade tonight and it worked without a hit. Used a laptop with Vista and the Keyspan USB to RS232. Yahoo.
> 
> 
> The biggest thing that I notice is my surround sound speakers are much more noticable in the room. The bass is a little to low for my liking, but I did a quick 5 measurement, so I am sure I have some tweaking.



If you haven't done any room treatments for bass room modes, odds are the bass you are "used to" contains some significant room resonance peaks. The boominess that those produce may not have been so bad as for you to think your bass was bad, but they *WILL* color your perception of what *PROPER* bass should produce.


The point is, by all means do a careful re-measure and check out the ARC curves for signs of trouble, but be prepared to live with the ARC produced results for a while before you start tweaking ARC's calculations. You may discover that your preconception about what constitutes enough bass is not, in fact, as good as what ARC produces for you with real movie content.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I am the fresh owner of a new D2 and have some issues with video.

Your help is much needed.

Before I go and read the extended articles written here about video I would like to ask a question to the more demanding users around here.

I have been using my HTPC connected straight to my projector via an HDMI HDMI cable and a DVI > HDMI adaptor on the HTPC's end.

The picture was noiseless, crisp, natural. And I spent some hours getting this result with calibration material.

Now, thru the D2, the picture is grainy, noisy, not natural. And the motions on screen are sometimes jerky and have jagged edges.

Before I go into reading and experiencing I have a question of principle:

- If you are a video purist that owns a D2 (and of course there must be some) did you manage to get an equally good or better picture through the D2 and how?

Just a few precisions.

- HTPC: using nVidia 8600GTS display adaptor, 1920x1080p/24fps output

- D2: set for 1920x1080p/24fps input and output

- HTPC to D2 connection: DVI HDMI high-grade 1080p compliant cable

- Projector: Sharp XV-Z20000 using HDMI input and 24 fps compliant firmware


Thank you


P.S: Just noticed on the docs that I should only input Interlaced signals. Didn't succeed to set my nVidia to 1920x1080i/24 though. Only 1920x1080i/60.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14133941
> 
> 
> If you haven't done any room treatments for bass room modes, odds are the bass you are "used to" contains some significant room resonance peaks. The boominess that those produce may not have been so bad as for you to think your bass was bad, but they *WILL* color your perception of what *PROPER* bass should produce.
> 
> 
> The point is, by all means do a careful re-measure and check out the ARC curves for signs of trouble, but be prepared to live with the ARC produced results for a while before you start tweaking ARC's calculations. You may discover that your preconception about what constitutes enough bass is not, in fact, as good as what ARC produces for you with real movie content.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob,


When I was talking about tweaking, was running the ARC in a differn't location then the quick 5 that I did.


Thanks.


----------



## dwwhitley

How big is the Video Souce Adjust / Patterns menu (under the "7") on your screen. Mine is about 1/4 screen size and is centered. It seems small and can be hard to read.


--Don


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dwwhitley* /forum/post/14135648
> 
> 
> How big is the Video Souce Adjust / Patterns menu (under the "7") on your screen. Mine is about 1/4 screen size and is centered. It seems small and can be hard to read.
> 
> 
> --Don



The Video Source Adjust menu itself is of fixed resolution so it can be a bit hard to read on a 1080p display. This is a limitation of the video processor chip that produces that menu (i.e., it apparently can only display that at one resolution that has to work for displays from 480 on up). The usual workaround is to get closer to your display to read that menu until you get familiar with what it says.


The test patterns themselves (Video Source Adjust / Patterns) should FILL your specified Setup / Video Output resolution, regardless of which resolution you have chosen. If the test patterns are not filling your screen then there is something screwy in your setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14134844
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I am the fresh owner of a new D2 and have some issues with video.
> 
> Your help is much needed.
> 
> Before I go and read the extended articles written here about video I would like to ask a question to the more demanding users around here.
> 
> I have been using my HTPC connected straight to my projector via an HDMI HDMI cable and a DVI > HDMI adaptor on the HTPC's end.
> 
> The picture was noiseless, crisp, natural. And I spent some hours getting this result with calibration material.
> 
> Now, thru the D2, the picture is grainy, noisy, not natural. And the motions on screen are sometimes jerky and have jagged edges.
> 
> Before I go into reading and experiencing I have a question of principle:
> 
> - If you are a video purist that owns a D2 (and of course there must be some) did you manage to get an equally good or better picture through the D2 and how?
> 
> Just a few precisions.
> 
> - HTPC: using nVidia 8600GTS display adaptor, 1920x1080p/24fps output
> 
> - D2: set for 1920x1080p/24fps input and output
> 
> - HTPC to D2 connection: DVI HDMI high-grade 1080p compliant cable
> 
> - Projector: Sharp XV-Z20000 using HDMI input and 24 fps compliant firmware
> 
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> P.S: Just noticed on the docs that I should only input Interlaced signals. Didn't succeed to set my nVidia to 1920x1080i/24 though. Only 1920x1080i/60.



It is not correct that you should send only interlaced signals to the D2. The rule of thumb is to send to the D2 as close as you can get to the original source content. I.e., let the D2 process it from there. For normal movies off a Blu-Ray disc, for example, that would be 1080p/24 (whether or not you also happen to have a to /24 capable display). For standard DVDs and SDTV broadcasts (in the US) that would be 480i. For HDTV broadcasts that would be either 720p or 1080i depending on what the channel is currently broadcasting.


The trick to using the D2 properly is to FIRST calibrate your display to best reproduce the video generated by the D2 (as shown by the D2's internally generated test patterns). After doing that, then refine the video with each source device using the input setting adjustments in the D2. It is the D2's job to convert all inputs to that one "best" output to your display.


[CAUTION: There is a bug in the current D2 software such that the Color and Tint controls for the currently selected input source (Video Source Adjust / Picture for each input) may *INCORRECTLY* alter the output of the D2's internally generated test patterns (Video Source Adjust / Patterns). When using the D2's test patterns to set up the levels in your display, you need to temporarily reset the D2's input Color and Tint controls for the currently selected D2 input to their default values (50). Also note that applying Gamma Correction inside the D2 (Video Source Adjust / Output) *CORRECTLY* alters the D2's test patterns. I.e., if you apply Gamma Correction inside the D2 then you must iterate back and re-adjust Brightness and Contrast in your display until you find the sweet spot setting for Brightness and Contrast in your display and Gamma in the D2. EXAMPLE: Raising Exponential Gamma in the D2 darkens the video output of the D2. You adjust for this by raising Brightness in your display, and then also refining Contrast as these 2 controls usually interact.]


If you have an HTPC you probably already know this, but just in case, 1080p/24 should only be used if the original source content is "film based", that is, if the original content was recorded at 24fps.


There is no good way to convert video based content -- shot with a video camera at 30 or 60fps, or computer animation generated at 30 or 60fps -- into 24fps. Doing so is guaranteed to produce jerky looking results.


[CAUTION: Please note that /24 is actually a short-hand for the TRUE frame rate used when film-based content is presented as video. The exact frame rate is actually 23.976 fps for technical reasons. Your HTPC, being a computer after all, may be able to send out both 24.000 fps and 23.976 fps. If so, 23.976 is the correct value to use. A similar thing is going on with 480i/60 broadcasts.]


"Film based" content coming off a normal, Blu-Ray, movie disc is 1080p/24 if your player allows that form of output. [More precisely, 1080p at 23.976 fps.]


Live TV Blu-Ray discs on the other hand -- typically live music concerts these days -- are captured with a video camera and come off the disc at 1080i/60. You must not try to convert such content to 1080p/24.


"Film based" content broadcast for TV (in the US) has been raised from its original 24 frames per second of film speed to 480i/60, 720p/60, or 1080i/60 via the telecine process that duplicates selected fields (interlaced half frames) of the video in a specific cadence. It is possible to detect and remove the repeated fields and retrieve the original /24 from that /60 stream but the Anthem does not currently do that. Unless your HTPC does that properly, you'll need to use 480i/60, 720p/60, 1080i/60 or 1080p/60 when sending such content to the Anthem. This would include playing movies off of standard DVDs for example -- which would then be sent to the Anthem as 480i/60 if the player allows, even when playing a film based standard DVD.


Normal TV shows on the other hand, are "video based" and must be left at /60. This would include regular TV shows sold on standard DVDs.


Notes on video calibration basics for the D2 can be found in the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post which is in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.


Notes on frame rates and such can also be found in those collected links.


Finally, be sure you have updated your D2 to the latest firmware (V1.33 at the moment) as there have been significant video imaging improvements compared to older firmware. The latest firmware can be downloaded from Anthem's D2 web page.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

to: massimo n.

i enjoyed the h/t pics, which triggered a question. did you not "apply" any sound attenuation devices to your room? i am thinking of bass traps, wall panels, etc.

my room is 16 x 22, and i am in the attentuating process. great mystery and confusion - been reading for months -a lot to discover. but, on topic, the attenuation issue regarding your h/t. any insight is appreciated.

this wed my arc comes in(well, it is promised for then) thense the upgrade to the D2, do arc, be amazed at the results.

walt


----------



## MStanic

Just upgrade to 1.33 and it all went fine. However, sometimes (regardless of source) I hear annoying beeping from the speaker(s) until it picks up the sound/video from the source. It's weird...this morning, if i turned the volume (without the source playing yet) it would beep from the surround left speaker. What's that about?


Upgraded in anticipation of receiving my ARC kit this upcoming week. Never had this on previous version I was running.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/14136301
> 
> 
> Just upgrade to 1.33 and it all went fine. However, sometimes (regardless of source) I hear annoying beeping from the speaker(s) until it picks up the sound/video from the source. It's weird...this morning, if i turned the volume (without the source playing yet) it would beep from the surround left speaker. What's that about?
> 
> 
> Upgraded in anticipation of receiving my ARC kit this upcoming week. Never had this on previous version I was running.



Give Anthem tech support a call tomorrow. It should not be doing that.


My guess is they will ask you to try re-installing V1.33 on top of itself as a first step just on the off chance that some portion of the install got corrupted. Note in particular the install instruction to make sure there are NO POWERED HDMI CONNECTIONS to the D2 while performing the firmware install. I recommend you remove wall power from everything other than the D2 and the computer during the install just to be sure.


They will likely also ask you to check the Muting setting in the Setup / Source Setup menu for each source to see that it didn't get altered by the install.


And Room EQ should be OFF in each of your Setup / Source Setup menus until after you do your first ARC results Upload.


What you are hearing COULD indicate a hardware problem in your D2, but work with them to eliminate software as the issue first.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Bob, thank you. There is so much info in your post I will have to print it to work it out.

I admit i didn't get everything and I will need to make some research.

Most of the movies I see are MKV's or BD all based on 24fps (23.976).

So I think I will optimize everything for this fps and live with it for the old avi.

You didn't write it expressly but I suppose that you think that the D2 is capable of improving my HTPC's output in the end, after the tuning, right?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14136369
> 
> 
> Bob, thank you. There is so much info in your post I will have to print it to work it out.
> 
> I admit i didn't get everything and I will need to make some research.
> 
> Most of the movies I see are MKV's or BD all based on 24fps (23.976).
> 
> So I think I will optimize everything for this fps and live with it for the old avi.
> 
> You didn't write it expressly but I suppose that you think that the D2 is capable of improving my HTPC's output in the end, after the tuning, right?



I don't know how far you went with your HTPC. There are some HTPC setups out there that easily rival or exceed the best standalone video processors.


Odds are, however, with proper setup you will be able to get at least as good through the D2 as you got with the HTPC directly connected.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14136406
> 
> 
> I don't know how far you went with your HTPC. There are some HTPC setups out there that easily rival or exceed the best standalone video processors.
> 
> 
> Odds are, however, with proper setup you will be able to get at least as good through the D2 as you got with the HTPC directly connected.
> 
> --Bob



That's what i wanted to hear to put myself in an optimistic mood.

I'll take your word for it.

Let's start to work.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14132758
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I redid everything - when it was time to load the new settings it went fine until the final speaker settings, that's when the D2 shut down and error screen came up (same as all the other times) Along with that error message a prior message stated that no changes were made due to.... then the error screen i sent you pops up.
> 
> - Scott



Scott,

For what it's worth, the same thing happened to me when I tried to upload my settings. I must have tried at least half a dozen times all in, including giving up and starting all over again the following morning. Always the error message after the D2 shuts down in the middle of the uploading process.


Eventually, I copied the Correction file onto another PC and tried again. This time, it went smoothly first try. I still don't know why the first PC failed to upload. And I've always been using it to update the D2 firmware without a hitch previously.


Maybe you should try to upload with another PC too!

Ben


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14136406
> 
> 
> I don't know how far you went with your HTPC. There are some HTPC setups out there that easily rival or exceed the best standalone video processors.
> 
> 
> Odds are, however, with proper setup you will be able to get at least as good through the D2 as you got with the HTPC directly connected.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


My nVidia control panel shows that I successfully created a custom resolution of 1920x1080i/23.976fps and applied it. Nevertheless the D2 video processor shows an input of 1920x1080i/50fps.

What can it be? Any idea?


----------



## yacht422

to: benleeys. you mentioned that you used a second pc to "fix" the loading issue.

Question #1: were either of the computers mac based, running bootcamp (ala bob)?

second question: software the same in each (is vista on both, or xp on both )

i have yet to order windows for the D2 / ARC process, and am looking for _user_ _issues_ with one or the other of the windows os's. various postings have suggested either is ok, but, then, up jumps the exception.[could be you]

( turns out the o/s issue could be more than a passing question, as i recently found out that apple is having a major problem with the mac pro 15" laptop - zebra stripes, etc. the post at apple is long, and worldwide.)

thanks!

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14137236
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> My nVidia control panel shows that I successfully created a custom resolution of 1920x1080i/23.976fps and applied it. Nevertheless the D2 video processor shows an input of 1920x1080i/50fps.
> 
> What can it be? Any idea?



Yes. I don't believe that's a valid input resolution for the D2. /50 is as close as the D2 can handle for that. During the HDMI handshake, the D2 is undoubtedly telling the nVidia that, and the nVidia is modifying the output you set to the closest thing the D2 will accept.


What you want to use, I suspect is 1920x1080p/23.976 instead.


[An interlaced video rate of 1080i/24 is the equivalent of only 12 full frames (2 interlaced fields/frame) per second.]

--Bob


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14133033
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> After I did the level calibration/noise level stting (as per the procedure you suggested ) I saved those settings as "Installer", then I shut off the D2 unit, waited, then turned on the D2 again to check if those setting were still in place - they were.
> 
> After I re-did the ACR I checked the setting each time and found them changed EG: the Left Front Speaker original set to 0 was now -5
> 
> So yes, I had to re-set it back to the Istaller's Setting I saved it in to start fresh. I also tried it without putting in those Installer's Settings and just over wrote during the next ACR - it was alway overwritten.
> 
> 
> The only thing I have to do is delete the ARC from my PC and re-enstall it and try again from the Installer's Settings in hops the ARC program didn't install correctly. This seems strange since it is doing eveything up to the point of installing the ARC speaker settings, but I don't know what else to do. I know one thing, I'm more than annoyed and as of now wouldn't recommend the added expense since it seems like such a picky and sensitive add-on. My PC is just a year old, quite powerful, and fast. I'm not paying an additional $40 to get what I need to use my laptop. At that point I would just ask for my money back.
> 
> This turned out to be a birthday present to myself and it stinks.
> 
> Thank you Bob for being there and trying to sort this out. I will keep you updated after I deal with Anthem on Monday.
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Scott



I had a similar problem and after many troubleshoothing sessions with Nick, he suggested to go in the D2 menu 11 (RS-232) and to make sure of the followings:


Tx Status = OFF

Flow Control = None

baud rate set to = 19200


In my case I found that the Tx status was set to On. After changing it to off, the ARC file could be uploaded correctly to the D2.


Good luck....I hope this works for you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The RS-232 settings Nick asked for (in Setup / Triggers, IR, and RS-232) are the factory default settings as well.


SEISMO, did you ever figure out how your TX Status setting got changed from the factory default in the first place?

--Bob


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14137445
> 
> 
> The RS-232 settings Nick asked for (in Setup / Triggers, IR, and RS-232) are the factory default settings as well.
> 
> 
> SEISMO, did you ever figure out how your TX Status setting got changed from the factory default in the first place?
> 
> --Bob



No not really (can't remember for sure), but it could very well been my own action.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I have been a D1 owner for several years but did borrow a D2 to test in my home a few months ago. When I picked it up from the store (unit was a display unit) and put it in it had more video quality issues than I care to list. I tried to work it into a good looking picture for about 45 minutes with limited success. At that point I reloaded factory defaults and saw a huge improvement. From there I got a very good picture establishing for myself that the D2 VP does a much better job than the scaler in my Infocus 777.


No doubt another customer had twiddled with one or more settings on the sales floor and had gotten the unit more out of calibration than I could readily fix. Depending on where you are in getting this worked out you might consider a reset and fresh start in case you unit came in with some odd settings in obscure places.







> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14134844
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I am the fresh owner of a new D2 and have some issues with video.
> 
> Your help is much needed.
> 
> Before I go and read the extended articles written here about video I would like to ask a question to the more demanding users around here.
> 
> I have been using my HTPC connected straight to my projector via an HDMI HDMI cable and a DVI > HDMI adaptor on the HTPC's end.
> 
> The picture was noiseless, crisp, natural. And I spent some hours getting this result with calibration material.
> 
> Now, thru the D2, the picture is grainy, noisy, not natural. And the motions on screen are sometimes jerky and have jagged edges.
> 
> Before I go into reading and experiencing I have a question of principle:
> 
> - If you are a video purist that owns a D2 (and of course there must be some) did you manage to get an equally good or better picture through the D2 and how?
> 
> Just a few precisions.
> 
> - HTPC: using nVidia 8600GTS display adaptor, 1920x1080p/24fps output
> 
> - D2: set for 1920x1080p/24fps input and output
> 
> - HTPC to D2 connection: DVI HDMI high-grade 1080p compliant cable
> 
> - Projector: Sharp XV-Z20000 using HDMI input and 24 fps compliant firmware
> 
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> P.S: Just noticed on the docs that I should only input Interlaced signals. Didn't succeed to set my nVidia to 1920x1080i/24 though. Only 1920x1080i/60.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14137812
> 
> 
> No not really (can't remember for sure), but it could very well been my own action.



I had several problems uploading Arc and I did restore factory defaults before. Maybe on some units it is setting RS 232 to on instead of off. Mine was on and after turning it off I had no problem. I used a Mac Mini with XP,bootcamp and a keyspan adapter. I very seldom use that menu and don't ever remember changing the setting. Possible I did but I sure don;t remember it. By the way it set my sub to crossover at 105,fronts 40, surrounds 45, center 70, rears 80. Sounds excellent.


Dick


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/14138262
> 
> 
> By the way it set my sub to crossover at 105,fronts 40, surrounds 45, center 70, rears 80. Sounds excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> Dick



Why did you set your sub to 105 and not 80 Hz to overlap with the rears? I will try something like that just for fun.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

This is a question about the TWC SA8240 and using it with the D2. I had an SA 8300HD and it worked fine with the D2. Then TWC did their upgrade to a new software. The sound didn't work on analog channels with HDMI. So I went to a digital coax. Everything was fine.

Well the SA8300 went south this weekend.(it died) So I had to swap it for a new one. Everything worked when I plugged it in using HDMI. But when I switch to another source like Blu-ray player and then back to the SA 8240, no picture. Sound will work through the digital coax but no picture. I rebooted and pulled the HDMI out then put it back in and again the picture worked.

But when you switch sources and come back the picture is blank. Seems like the SA 8240 HDMI doesn't do the handshake with the D2 like the SA 8300HD did. Anyone have this problem who owns a D2? Is the only way to fix this is to go back to component cables? I'd hate that. Seems like there are a lot of problems with the new software Mythnos(sp?)that TWC is now using. They said they are not doing any firmware upgrades for this new software till the roll out complete and every single HD costumer has it.


----------



## dmorse4765

Arc set it, I didn't. I only mentioned it because a lot of users said it set theirs to 120. Mine was at 120 on the first measurement. I remeasured because I moved the front speakers about a foot and toed them in. Everything stayed the same except the sub crossover changed.


Dick


----------



## dschamis

On the mic for the ARC, is the USB wire connector that connects into the mic supposed to be bent a bit? My 5 year-old son moved was messing around with the mic (after he's been told not to) and the tip is now bent. I can't remember if it was always like that or if he just did it.


Thanks,


David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/14138767
> 
> 
> On the mic for the ARC, is the USB wire connector that connects into the mic supposed to be bent a bit? My 5 year-old son moved was messing around with the mic (after he's been told not to) and the tip is now bent. I can't remember if it was always like that or if he just did it.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David



No, but USB connectors are not that sensitive, so if ARC is seeing the microphone and not complaining you are probably OK.


The USB cable provided with ARC is nothing special (except for being unusually long). If necessary, you can get a replacement cable from any decent source such as Monoprice. Just make sure it has the mini-USB connector at the end that's supposed to plug into the microphone.


If the socket built into the microphone is damaged you are in a bigger pickle as the ARC microphones are individually calibrated and matched to your ARC license (via the 2 calibration files that get installed). So you can't simply use any USB microphone.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14138809
> 
> 
> No, but USB connectors are not that sensitive, so if ARC is seeing the microphone and not complaining you are probably OK.
> 
> 
> The USB cable provided with ARC is nothing special (except for being unusually long). If necessary, you can get a replacement cable from any decent source such as Monoprice. Just make sure it has the mini-USB connector at the end that's supposed to plug into the microphone.
> 
> 
> If the socket built into the microphone is damaged you are in a bigger pickle as the ARC microphones are individually calibrated and matched to your ARC license (via the 2 calibration files that get installed). So you can't simply use any USB microphone.
> 
> --Bob



I just checked - everything is working fine even with the damaged cable - I ordered a new cable to be certain (for $5 what the hell).


On the other hand, my little man is in big trouble when he wakes up tomorrow. Any suggested punishments for a 5 year-old? Take away Wii for a week? PS3?


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/14138384
> 
> 
> This is a question about the TWC SA8240 and using it with the D2. I had an SA 8300HD and it worked fine with the D2. Then TWC did their upgrade to a new software. The sound didn't work on analog channels with HDMI. So I went to a digital coax. Everything was fine.
> 
> Well the SA8300 went south this weekend.(it died) So I had to swap it for a new one. Everything worked when I plugged it in using HDMI. But when I switch to another source like Blu-ray player and then back to the SA 8240, no picture. Sound will work through the digital coax but no picture. I rebooted and pulled the HDMI out then put it back in and again the picture worked.
> 
> But when you switch sources and come back the picture is blank. Seems like the SA 8240 HDMI doesn't do the handshake with the D2 like the SA 8300HD did. Anyone have this problem who owns a D2? Is the only way to fix this is to go back to component cables? I'd hate that. Seems like there are a lot of problems with the new software Mythnos(sp?)that TWC is now using. They said they are not doing any firmware upgrades for this new software till the roll out complete and every single HD costumer has it.



I have only used the newer TW boxes (first 8240 and now the 4240). Both of them have the same problem that you mentioned before. HDMI is OK at reboot, but when you switch away, the picture is gone. I was never able to get the audio to work through HDMI. I am using component video now which I think looks pretty good.


The only problem I have is that the "Edges On" feature on the D2 does not always kick in for all my component video sources. I usually have to switch the source to something else and then back again, or change aspect ratios to get the D2 to crop the picture. It works fine with HDMI though.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

From what I am hearing, TWC does not support HDMI very well, and many of their customers have this problem.

They are really a backwards company.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14137272
> 
> 
> to: benleeys. you mentioned that you used a second pc to "fix" the loading issue.
> 
> Question #1: were either of the computers mac based, running bootcamp (ala bob)?
> 
> second question: software the same in each (is vista on both, or xp on both )
> 
> i have yet to order windows for the D2 / ARC process, and am looking for _user_ _issues_ with one or the other of the windows os's. various postings have suggested either is ok, but, then, up jumps the exception.[could be you]
> 
> ( turns out the o/s issue could be more than a passing question, as i recently found out that apple is having a major problem with the mac pro 15" laptop - zebra stripes, etc. the post at apple is long, and worldwide.)
> 
> thanks!
> 
> walt



Walt,

Both the PCs run identical O/S, ie XP and loaded with ARC 1.21. The same 21ft serial cable was used. Only difference is the second PC is 4 years old, compared the the first, which is only 6 months old.


Like I said, I still don't know why one works and not the other. Probably a hidden factor somewhere, but unfortunately I'm not sufficiently tech savvy to determine the cause. Measurements were taken with the first PC. It just won't upload the results.

-Ben


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14137354
> 
> 
> Yes. I don't believe that's a valid input resolution for the D2. /50 is as close as the D2 can handle for that. During the HDMI handshake, the D2 is undoubtedly telling the nVidia that, and the nVidia is modifying the output you set to the closest thing the D2 will accept.
> 
> 
> What you want to use, I suspect is 1920x1080p/23.976 instead.
> 
> 
> [An interlaced video rate of 1080i/24 is the equivalent of only 12 full frames (2 interlaced fields/frame) per second.]
> 
> --Bob



I understand the logic behind this but then aren't we spoiling the signal extensively? I mean this the path as I reckon:

- BD (1920x1080?/24) > HTPC (1920x1080i/50) > D2 (1920x1080p/24)

This way I think I lost all the advantage of supporting the original 24fps. Right?

What do you think I should do?

And one more thing, I am pretty sure I read somewhere that the Gennum processes its de-interlacing only when fed Interlaced signal (logical). So is this the reason why you recommend using a 1920x1080i/50 signal?


I think I am going sideways....

I have video settings in the HTPC (nvidia), in the D2 and in the Sharp projector. I am lost.

So I decided first to isolate the D2.

I projected the test patterns from the D2 and proceeded as described in the Anthem manual. This led me to some major changes in my projector settings. When the test patterns looked as expected (i used an optical filter set from a Digital Video Essentials dvd) I thought I was Go for setting the nvidia.

But then the HTPC's output looked terrible. So i started setting the nvidia settings. I couldn't get it done somehow. Things looks wrong.


What is the best pratice, Please?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14139965
> 
> 
> Walt,
> 
> Both the PCs run identical O/S, ie XP and loaded with ARC 1.21. The same 21ft serial cable was used. Only difference is the second PC is 4 years old, compared the the first, which is only 6 months old.
> 
> 
> Like I said, I still don't know why one works and not the other. Probably a hidden factor somewhere, but unfortunately I'm not sufficiently tech savvy to determine the cause. Measurements were taken with the first PC. It just won't upload the results.
> 
> -Ben



Nick at Anthem told me they discovered that some of the PC manufacturers were shipping altered versions of Windows bundled with some of their computers, rather than the version of Windows you might buy separately at retail and then upgrade via the automated Windows Update process. And apparently some of these altered versions of Windows had the effect of screwing up the RS-232 connection. I would think it more likely that the differences are bugs in the low level BIOS firmware code in the PC that Windows depends upon.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14139973
> 
> 
> I understand the logic behind this but then aren't we spoiling the signal extensively? I mean this the path as I reckon:
> 
> - BD (1920x1080?/24) > HTPC (1920x1080i/50) > D2 (1920x1080p/24)
> 
> This way I think I lost all the advantage of supporting the original 24fps. Right?
> 
> What do you think I should do?
> 
> And one more thing, I am pretty sure I read somewhere that the Gennum processes its de-interlacing only when fed Interlaced signal (logical). So is this the reason why you recommend using a 1920x1080i/50 signal?
> 
> 
> I think I am going sideways....
> 
> I have video settings in the HTPC (nvidia), in the D2 and in the Sharp projector. I am lost.
> 
> So I decided first to isolate the D2.
> 
> I projected the test patterns from the D2 and proceeded as described in the Anthem manual. This led me to some major changes in my projector settings. When the test patterns looked as expected (i used an optical filter set from a Digital Video Essentials dvd) I thought I was Go for setting the nvidia.
> 
> But then the HTPC's output looked terrible. So i started setting the nvidia settings. I couldn't get it done somehow. Things looks wrong.
> 
> 
> What is the best pratice, Please?



I think I've managed to confuse you.


First are you in the US or in Europe? There is no reason at all to use a /50 signal in US markets. Those are for European TVs.


Second, you should *NOT* be using interlaced signals for film-based Blu-Ray discs if your HTPC supports 1080p/24. And for video-based Blu-Ray discs you should be using 1080i/60 (in US markets).


For film-based Blu-Ray discs the path should be: BD (1080p/24 off the disc) --> HTPC (1080p/24) --> D2 --> TV where the output from the D2 is set to the "best" video resolution and frame rate for your TV. The frame rate to your TV will be /24 if the TV supports it properly and /60 otherwise. I.e., it is OK to convert /24 from the disc to /60 if your TV doesn't support /24 -- let the D2 do this conversion.


For video-based Blu-Ray discs the path should be: BD (1080i/60 off the disc) --> HTPC (1080i/60) --> D2 --> TV where the output from the D2 is set to the "best" video resolution and /60 frame rate for your TV. I.e., do not try to convert /60 input into /24 output.


A player like the PS3 can be set to automatically switch its output from 1080p/24 to 1080i/60 according to what's coming off the disc. Ideally your HTPC Blu-Ray playback system should do the same.


----------------------------


There are lots of ways to screw up video calibration setup so I can't tell what you might have done wrong from your post. Carefully re-read the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post in the collection of links in the first post of this thread for suggestions.


First, what are your Setup / Video Output settings in the D2 and does your projector use an HDMI or a DVI input? For an HDMI to DVI connection to your projector, are you using Studio RGB output from the D2? Second, double check the "picture mode" setting in your projector as described in that post, as well as turning off image enhancement "features" in the projector.


If your "best" projector settings for displaying the D2's internally generated test patterns are still quite a bit different from those you used with your HTPC, then either you have your D2's Video Output set wrong or your HTPC was sending out an odd signal which you compensated for using the settings in your projector. Thus you also need to revisit the settings in your HTPC for its output to the D2.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

thx to benleeys & bob for the info. since i'll be using a mac / bootcamp / xp combination, who knows what might happen.

come thurs pm, should there be a first - ever seismic reading coming from florida, y'all will know the source.

walt


----------



## umr

I had a chance to work on an Anthem ARC system this Saturday. The results with the ARC system were very poor. The wide band pink noise from each channel was no where near timber matched and it ruined the surround effect by redirecting too much sound to the fronts. The measurements shown on the PC from the ARC software did not come close to representing my measurements. It also boosted the bass such that the woofer bottomed out. None of these problems were evident when manually adjusting the system.


I would pass on this feature and buy good tools and adjust it manually if you want to DIY this.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umr* /forum/post/14141873
> 
> 
> I had a chance to work on an Anthem ARC system this Saturday. The results with the ARC system were very poor. The wide band pink noise from each channel was no where near timber matched and it ruined the surround effect by redirecting too much sound to the fronts. The measurements shown on the PC from the ARC software did not come close to representing my measurements. It also boosted the bass such that the woofer bottomed out. None of these problems were evident when manually adjusting the system.
> 
> 
> I would pass on this feature and buy good tools and adjust it manually if you want to DIY this.



Wow I had the exact opposite results.


I clearly hear my surround information from my back speakers and the transition from front to rear for sound is night and day improvement.


The bass for me is much smoother and blends with all my speakers much better to the point that I don't know where my sub is placed. The bass no longer overpowers everything.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umr* /forum/post/14141873
> 
> 
> I had a chance to work on an Anthem ARC system this Saturday. The results with the ARC system were very poor. The wide band pink noise from each channel was no where near timber matched and it ruined the surround effect by redirecting too much sound to the fronts. The measurements shown on the PC from the ARC software did not come close to representing my measurements. It also boosted the bass such that the woofer bottomed out. None of these problems were evident when manually adjusting the system.
> 
> 
> I would pass on this feature and buy good tools and adjust it manually if you want to DIY this.



Jeff, which version of D2 firmware and ARC software were you using? Did you by any chance look to verify that the cross overs and speaker levels got properly uploaded to the D2?


What you are reporting sounds a lot to me like the Upload of ARC results didn't work properly. This has been a problem with some PC serial connections and the first versions of the ARC software.


What you are reporting is at odds with what other posters on this thread are hearing. It would be good to try to figure out where the difference is here.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umr* /forum/post/14141873
> 
> 
> I had a chance to work on an Anthem ARC system this Saturday. The results with the ARC system were very poor. The wide band pink noise from each channel was no where near timber matched and it ruined the surround effect by redirecting too much sound to the fronts. The measurements shown on the PC from the ARC software did not come close to representing my measurements. It also boosted the bass such that the woofer bottomed out. None of these problems were evident when manually adjusting the system.
> 
> 
> I would pass on this feature and buy good tools and adjust it manually if you want to DIY this.



WOW!!!! I'm surprised at that. Well, I guess it's "different strokes for different folks". I must say that the ARC improved my sound tremendously. I'm just immersed in sound. I can't identify where the sound is coming from unless it's hard mixed to a particular speaker which is the way that it should be. The bass is very smooth and integrates very well with the rest of the system. I just can't stop grinning with the results of my ARC.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umr* /forum/post/14141873
> 
> 
> I had a chance to work on an Anthem ARC system this Saturday. The results with the ARC system were very poor. The wide band pink noise from each channel was no where near timber matched and it ruined the surround effect by redirecting too much sound to the fronts. The measurements shown on the PC from the ARC software did not come close to representing my measurements. It also boosted the bass such that the woofer bottomed out. None of these problems were evident when manually adjusting the system.
> 
> 
> I would pass on this feature and buy good tools and adjust it manually if you want to DIY this.



I had similar results the first time I ran it and had the same reaction as you did. OTOH, my first D2 was defective in other ways and a new one with updated firmware and updated ARC software was an entirely different animal.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*ARC Movie vs. Music configuration -- no difference in ARC algorithm*


I got an email from Nick at Anthem today clarifying something I've had in the back of my mind for a while: There is no difference in the ARC calculations/targets, or in how the results are used in the D2 during listening, between the Movie and Music configuration.


Producing a separate Music configuration lets you specify a different speaker set (e.g., no center channel or no subwoofer for Music), and conceivably you could use different mic positions when measuring for Music listening although I would imagine that would be rare. But if the speaker setup and mic measurements are identical then the results will also be identical for Movie and Music, both in the calculations/targets and in how those results are used in the D2 when playing content (assuming the same Audio Mode is engaged).


Which means there's no reason to set up a separate Music configuration with ARC unless you want to force a difference such as changing which speakers are to be used in the mix or when making different, manual adjustments to the ARC Targets.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14142274
> 
> *ARC Movie vs. Music configuration -- no difference in ARC algorithm*
> 
> 
> I got an email from Nick at Anthem today clarifying something I've had in the back of my mind for a while: There is no difference in the ARC calculations/targets, or in how the results are used in the D2 during listening, between the Movie and Music configuration.
> 
> 
> Producing a separate Music configuration lets you specify a different speaker set (e.g., no center channel or no subwoofer for Music), and conceivably you could use different mic positions when measuring for Music listening although I would imagine that would be rare. But if the speaker setup and mic measurements are identical then the results will also be identical for Movie and Music, both in the calculations/targets and in how those results are used in the D2 when playing content (assuming the same Audio Mode is engaged).
> 
> 
> Which means there's no reason to set up a separate Music configuration with ARC unless you want to force a difference such as changing which speakers are to be used in the mix or when making different, manual adjustments to the ARC Targets.
> 
> --Bob



I normally do a separate Movie and Music configuration because I remove the center channel from the Music configuration. I do the same measurements in the same positions. However, the ARC produces different results for my rears. For movie, the crossover is 95 and for music, the crossover is 100 which is a small difference.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14141453
> 
> 
> Nick at Anthem told me they discovered that some of the PC manufacturers were shipping altered versions of Windows bundled with some of their computers, rather than the version of Windows you might buy separately at retail and then upgrade via the automated Windows Update process. And apparently some of these altered versions of Windows had the effect of screwing up the RS-232 connection. I would think it more likely that the differences are bugs in the low level BIOS firmware code in the PC that Windows depends upon.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, Bob, I read about this somewhere else earlier. What's puzzling







me is that my new PC (which refused to load the results) is loaded with XP that is purchased independently at retail. And the older PC (which sucessfully loaded the results) is using OEM software! Both O/Ss have been similarly updated.


I am going to take new readings again after I finish installing new traps in my room. Maybe I'll get lucky this time.









-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14142314
> 
> 
> I normally do a separate Movie and Music configuration because I remove the center channel from the Music configuration. I do the same measurements in the same positions. However, the ARC produces different results for my rears. For movie, the crossover is 95 and for music, the crossover is 100 which is a small difference.



I do the same, and saw some differences in cross over early on. The more careful I am in resetting the mic positions properly for the Music pass the more likely it is that I will get precisely the same cross overs for both Movie and Music.


Mind you, the actual audio to the speaker is a combo of the cross over and the ARC correction parameters. So a slight difference in cross over like this may be meaningless as ARC may simply be reversing that with slightly different correction parameters. Your measurements may simply be right on the border for which way ARC chooses to go, even though the net results are identical.


Anyway, it was results like yours (and my early results) that prompted me to ask Nick. The answer is that any difference you are seeing is due to subtle differences in the measurement -- not to any difference in the algorithm.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14142498
> 
> 
> I do the same, and saw some differences in cross over early on. The more careful I am in resetting the mic positions properly for the Music pass the more likely it is that I will get precisely the same cross overs for both Movie and Music.
> 
> 
> Mind you, the actual audio to the speaker is a combo of the cross over and the ARC correction parameters. So a slight difference in cross over like this may be meaningless as ARC may simply be reversing that with slightly different correction parameters. Your measurements may simply be right on the border for which way ARC chooses to go, even though the net results are identical.
> 
> 
> Anyway, it was results like yours (and my early results) that prompted me to ask Nick. The answer is that any difference you are seeing is due to subtle differences in the measurement -- not to any difference in the algorithm.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I probably did not precisely place the mic in the exact same spot; but, I'm very happy with my sound. After all, it's all about what you hear and not what you see when it comes to audio. BTW, is your sub fixed?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14142598
> 
> 
> Yes, I probably did not precisely place the mic in the exact same spot; but, I'm very happy with my sound. After all, it's all about what you hear and not what you see when it comes to audio. BTW, is your sub fixed?



Velodyne swapped out the subwoofer's amp under warranty. But UPS's train from California got lost (should have turned left in Albuquerque). So the replacement amp is now "rescheduled" for delivery today.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14142647
> 
> 
> Velodyne swapped out the subwoofer's amp under warranty. But UPS's train from California got lost (should have turned left in Albuquerque). So the replacement amp is now "rescheduled" for delivery today.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I just hate when they don't make the right turn. Well, I hope you get it today and all works out for you.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14142274
> 
> *ARC Movie vs. Music configuration -- no difference in ARC algorithm*
> 
> 
> I got an email from Nick at Anthem today clarifying something I've had in the back of my mind for a while: There is no difference in the ARC calculations/targets, or in how the results are used in the D2 during listening, between the Movie and Music configuration.
> 
> 
> Producing a separate Music configuration lets you specify a different speaker set (e.g., no center channel or no subwoofer for Music), and conceivably you could use different mic positions when measuring for Music listening although I would imagine that would be rare. But if the speaker setup and mic measurements are identical then the results will also be identical for Movie and Music, both in the calculations/targets and in how those results are used in the D2 when playing content (assuming the same Audio Mode is engaged).
> 
> 
> Which means there's no reason to set up a separate Music configuration with ARC unless you want to force a difference such as changing which speakers are to be used in the mix or when making different, manual adjustments to the ARC Targets.
> 
> --Bob



For music I have only the Fronts working. By removing the Sub (and hence the crossover) resulted in a 5dB lift of the low frequency target line at 20Hz.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14142812
> 
> 
> For music I have only the Fronts working. By removing the Sub (and hence the crossover) resulted in a 5dB lift of the low frequency target line at 20Hz.
> 
> -Ben



That makes sense. You specified a different speaker setup and ARC compensated.


However, what Nick is saying is that if you ALSO removed the Sub from the Movie configuration Arc would have calculated the same results as what you are now getting for Music. I.e., ARC doesn't do anything special for Music that's different from what it does for Movie.

--Bob


----------



## umr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14142109
> 
> 
> Jeff, which version of D2 firmware and ARC software were you using? Did you by any chance look to verify that the cross overs and speaker levels got properly uploaded to the D2?
> 
> 
> What you are reporting sounds a lot to me like the Upload of ARC results didn't work properly. This has been a problem with some PC serial connections and the first versions of the ARC software.
> 
> 
> What you are reporting is at odds with what other posters on this thread are hearing. It would be good to try to figure out where the difference is here.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I do not know the versions of what was involved. All I know is we ran it twice with the same poor results. I also looked at the measurements reported by the software and they were wrong. I do not see how that poor of measurement could ever result in good results. I have seen many of these types of systems and none have been any good, but this one was particularly horrible.


I do not have continued access to this system so it is impossible for me to report more on this. The client is in europe at this point so I doubt he will comment for a while.


I would be willing to look at another person's system who believes their's is correct to see how good it really is.


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/14139273
> 
> 
> From what I am hearing, TWC does not support HDMI very well, and many of their customers have this problem.
> 
> They are really a backwards company.



I agree. I checked to see if they had a different box (maybe a Motorola) and they did not in my area. The tech at TW told me that they had a lot of complaints with the new boxes and software because they are slow.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umr* /forum/post/14143039
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I do not know the versions of what was involved. All I know is we ran it twice with the same poor results. I also looked at the measurements reported by the software and they were wrong. I do not see how that poor of measurement could ever result in good results. I have seen many of these types of systems and none have been any good, but this one was particularly horrible.
> 
> 
> I do not have continued access to this system so it is impossible for me to report more on this. The client is in europe at this point so I doubt he will comment for a while.
> 
> 
> I would be willing to look at another person's system who believes their's is correct to see how good it really is.



I hope you do get a chance to evaluate an ARC setup that appears to be working correctly. The sort of gross, audible errors you are reporting would, I think, have generated far more complaint posts here if they were common. So far, the only cases we've had reported here like that were due to faulty Uploads of results to the D2.


Anthem did change the measurement process after the initial ARC V1.0 shipments due to some problems in certain listening rooms, but I've no idea whether that would explain what you were seeing. They also changed the instructions for mic positioning to make sure ARC could better distinguish room response from inherent speaker performance (see Section 3.15 of the D2 V1.3x Operating Manual downloadable from the Anthem D2 site).


If you have a chance to find out from the client, please do check on the version #'s. The latest D2 firmware version at the moment is V1.33. The latest ARC application version at the moment is V1.2.2.


If you happen to still have the ARC application on your own computer, along with the results file it produces, it might also be helpful if you can screen capture and post its chart windows here along with what you were seeing that was different in your own measurements. You can do that (run ARC in Advanced mode) without having to have your computer connected to the client's D2.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14143306
> 
> 
> I hope you do get a chance to evaluate an ARC setup that appears to be working correctly. The sort of gross, audible errors you are reporting would, I think, have generated far more complaint posts here if they were common. So far, the only cases we've had reported here like that were due to faulty Uploads of results to the D2.
> 
> 
> Anthem did change the measurement process after the initial ARC V1.0 shipments due to some problems in certain listening rooms, but I've no idea whether that would explain what you were seeing. They also changed the instructions for mic positioning to make sure ARC could better distinguish room response from inherent speaker performance (see Section 3.15 of the D2 V1.3x Operating Manual downloadable from the Anthem D2 site).
> 
> 
> If you have a chance to find out from the client, please do check on the version #'s. The latest D2 firmware version at the moment is V1.33. The latest ARC application version at the moment is V1.2.2.
> 
> 
> If you happen to still have the ARC application on your own computer, along with the results file it produces, it might also be helpful if you can screen capture and post its chart windows here along with what you were seeing that was different in your own measurements. You can do that (run ARC in Advanced mode) without having to have your computer connected to the client's D2.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I would love to see the graphs that were produced by ARC that caused such a horrible listening experience.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14142274
> 
> 
> or when making different, manual adjustments to the ARC Targets.
> 
> --Bob



Yup. Very useful for that.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *umr* /forum/post/14143039
> 
> 
> I do not know the versions of what was involved. All I know is we ran it twice with the same poor results. I also looked at the measurements reported by the software and they were wrong. I do not see how that poor of measurement could ever result in good results.



The versions may be critical. As I said, until I updated (and swapped D2s, another variable), the results were awful and unusable. Now, they are fine.


----------



## ninja12

I know this is not the right place to post this; but, I know people here have broad knowledge. I am thinking about adding some room acoustics to my listening room (28x18x8). I was wondering how much it would cost if I was to get an acoustian come in. I'm just looking for a general idea. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14144311
> 
> 
> I know this is not the right place to post this; but, I know people here have broad knowledge. I am thinking about adding some room acoustics to my listening room (28x18x8). I was wondering how much it would cost if I was to get an acoustian come in. I'm just looking for a general idea. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.



I don't have a good answer for you, but I believe there is another forum here dedicated to room audio treatments. They would probably have some cost estimates and even contractor recommendations for you over there. So you should probably try over there for info as well.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14144459
> 
> 
> I don't have a good answer for you, but I believe there is another forum here dedicated to room audio treatments. They would probably have some cost estimates and even contractor recommendations for you over there. So you should probably try over there for info as well.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I will do that. That's probably better because I definitely don't want to hijack this thread. Anyway, thanks for responding.


----------



## ditcin

Bob,

An update - I was on the phone today with Anthem several times. They had me send them the actual files made of by the ARC which I tried to upload to the [email protected] They can't understand why my sub levels are so high and why the sweep signal aren't being controled by the Sub's amp. i didn't a few more sweeps today and all were sent to ANthem via email - still no answer. The calibrated ARC findings are not being uploaded to the D2. They also had be re-install 1.33 for the D2, but that did nothing (it was already working fine) The upload for the ARC stops dureing the final speaker placement findings. They said the Sub level is too high but still don't understand why either.

I'm just shaking my head over this since i don't believe such a picky program should not be on the market.

I've been waiting for a caontact but at this hour I don't think anything will come today. I was expecting a call after I first sent the files, but to my surprise I instead found an email answer which pissed me off since is said nothing and I thought I was expaecting a phone call - I have better things to do than wait all day on this and have to lug my desk top up and down stairs.

Not a happy camper here.

- Scott


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14144679
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> An update - I was on the phone today with Anthem several times. They had me send them the actual files made of by the ARC which I tried to upload to the [email protected] They can't understand why my sub levels are so high and why the sweep signal aren't being controled by the Sub's amp. i didn't a few more sweeps today and all were sent to ANthem via email - still no answer. The calibrated ARC findings are not being uploaded to the D2. They also had be re-install 1.33 for the D2, but that did nothing (it was already working fine) The upload for the ARC stops dureing the final speaker placement findings. They said the Sub level is too high but still don't understand why either.
> 
> I'm just shaking my head over this since i don't believe such a picky program should not be on the market.
> 
> I've been waiting for a caontact but at this hour I don't think anything will come today. I was expecting a call after I first sent the files, but to my surprise I instead found an email answer which pissed me off since is said nothing and I thought I was expaecting a phone call - I have better things to do than wait all day on this and have to lug my desk top up and down stairs.
> 
> Not a happy camper here.
> 
> - Scott



Scott, I don't blame you for being unhappy. I suspect it is going to turn out to be something simple, but that doesn't help you until it's found.


The Anthem people really will sort this out for you. But I'm puzzled too. It's as if your ARC mic isn't properly measuring the subwoofer. But that should jump right out at them when they analyze the file you sent them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My replacement sub amp arrived today and I just completed a new ARC pass with D2 V1.33 and ARC V1.2.2.


The new sub amp seems to be giving better sub measurements than the old amp so I suspect the old amp had some developing problems before it failed. In any event, I just Uploaded the results and so far so good.


By the way, I took the gamble and did the ARC Upload with the sub powered on. ARC V1.2.2 properly "Muted" the D2 and the Upload completed without error and without any noises, loud or otherwise, from sub or other speakers.


It looks like Anthem may have fixed the "Possible Loud Pops on Upload" issue.


Since we've been talking crossovers lately: This ARC pass set the subwoofer at 120, the LF and RF at 80, the surrounds at 90 and the Center at 115 Hz.


In other good news, the ARC V1.2.2 Upload appears to have properly uploaded and confirmed all data even though run on my MacBook / BootCamp / Windows XP / Keyspan USB->Serial adapter setup. It looks like ARC V1.2.2 has fixed its serial connection reliability issues in my setup.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14146344
> 
> 
> Scott, I don't blame you for being unhappy. I suspect it is going to turn out to be something simple, but that doesn't help you until it's found.
> 
> 
> The Anthem people really will sort this out for you. But I'm puzzled too. It's as if your ARC mic isn't properly measuring the subwoofer. But that should jump right out at them when they analyze the file you sent them.
> 
> --Bob



I think there are still a few flakes in ARC. The first series of measurements/calculations/uploads I did were similar to this. The measurements were OK and much the same as I got with later runs but the target curves and calculated results always set the sub levels 8-10dB high! Multiple runs and fiddling with the targets could not fix this. Never happened with the second D2/updated firmware+software.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Not to minimize the frustration of those who are still having problems with it, but *DANG!* this ARC stuff sounds good when everything's working right!


Time to dust off a few of these for me!


->->->-







-


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14147579
> 
> 
> Not to minimize the frustration of those who are still having problems with it, but *DANG!* this ARC stuff sounds good when everything's working right!
> 
> 
> Time to dust off a few of these for me!
> 
> 
> ->->->-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14141589
> 
> 
> I think I've managed to confuse you.
> 
> 
> First are you in the US or in Europe? There is no reason at all to use a /50 signal in US markets. Those are for European TVs.
> 
> 
> Second, you should *NOT* be using interlaced signals for film-based Blu-Ray discs if your HTPC supports 1080p/24. And for video-based Blu-Ray discs you should be using 1080i/60 (in US markets).
> 
> 
> ............................................................ ..........
> 
> ............................................................ ..........
> 
> Thus you also need to revisit the settings in your HTPC for its output to the D2.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I think that thanks to your help I am getting somewhere.

I would like to describe my present situation and have your corrections if needed.


- HTPC Resolution: I decided to set my HTPC to an output signal of 1920x1080p/24. It is cumbersome to set other resolutions specifically for videos and such. Most of the use I make of it is for Film based media set at 24fps, so I think that'll do it.

- D2 Resolution: I set it for 1920x1080p/24 too for the HTPC source.

- Calibration course of action: I reset EVERYTHING to factory default. Than i first set the calibration of my Sharp projector based of the D2's test pattern output. Than when things looked good, I set the calibration of the nVidia card on my HTPC using "Digital Video Essentials - BluRay".

- Calibration, results: Right now brightness is good, contrast is good, sharpness set at 0, blue color test OK, red color test OK, green color test NOT OK.


Conclusion: The picture looks good. Blacks are super deep. Brightness lacks a bit, but then again, maybe its my bad habits. Color looks good, to me, but i couldn't get a good reading for green through the green filter provided with DVE.


Please, you are invited to make comments on all of the above. And especially, do you think there is a way to improve the green setting?

Gamma didn't help.


Thank you










P.S: Reading your other comments on ARC. Mine is monumentally good!


----------



## ditcin

The strange thing with the level I've been taking is the high response of the sub. The error message is stating I need to set the sub at -17 or even - 21 The Anthem guys don't understand why the sub is coming off so high. Another thing that is weird is that the test sweeps over ride the sub's internal amp so no matter how low the sub's amp is set (even at the lowest point) the sweeps are not effected by it. That's really got Anthem puzzled. I suggest that by setting the amp's cross over it might be over riding the sub's volume control causing the D2 to take over but when I the volume control still works during playback of a DVD. Then I tried to use a lower crossover on the sub to limit the level in terms of frequiences - that sort of worked but I had to lower it with a cut off of 60hrz and even then the new response in the error message was lower the sub -17 We abandoned that theory since it was limiting the sub's output too much.

I have a feeling it's the sub, it's size and natural output. Anthem admitted they never faced that kind of sub before and are considering that might me the problem. Which course means they didn't take a wider scope in the creation of the ARC to contend with this kind of problem. The D2 also might need an alteration since internally it can only handle a sub setting of -12 and, in my case, can not deliver what the error message is requesting to compensate for the problem.

- Scott


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


My configuration causes the Left and Right channel to go through 2 levels of pre-amplification. First the D2 and then an Electrocompaniet EC4.8 preamp.

When I leveled all the speakers output with an SPL meter my Left and Right channels (and the dub too) had much more db's added through the D2 settings.

Nevertheless when I run the ARC software and hear the test tones it is evident it bypasses the levels set for the speakers. The Left and Right channels and the sub are much quieter than the rest.

Is it normal or is it a bug?


Thanks


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14148146
> 
> 
> The strange thing with the level I've been taking is the high response of the sub. The error message is stating I need to set the sub at -17 or even - 21 The Anthem guys don't understand why the sub is coming off so high. Another thing that is weird is that the test sweeps over ride the sub's internal amp so no matter how low the sub's amp is set (even at the lowest point) the sweeps are not effected by it. That's really got Anthem puzzled. I suggest that by setting the amp's cross over it might be over riding the sub's volume control causing the D2 to take over but when I the volume control still works during playback of a DVD. Then I tried to use a lower crossover on the sub to limit the level in terms of frequiences - that sort of worked but I had to lower it with a cut off of 60hrz and even then the new response in the error message was lower the sub -17 We abandoned that theory since it was limiting the sub's output too much.
> 
> I have a feeling it's the sub, it's size and natural output. Anthem admitted they never faced that kind of sub before and are considering that might me the problem. Which course means they didn't take a wider scope in the creation of the ARC to contend with this kind of problem. The D2 also might need an alteration since internally it can only handle a sub setting of -12 and, in my case, can not deliver what the error message is requesting to compensate for the problem.
> 
> - Scott



I am also puzzled by this situation, how can the sub output not be affected when you lower the sub's own level control? Do you mean that even when you turn all the way down the sub's own volume control,there is still sound coming out of it? The D2 cannot overide the output of the sub as it puts out a fixed level signal(after test tone level adjustment if any). Is it possible that the subs attenuator is not working? +/-12dB adjustment is quite adequate if the volume control of the sub is working. The final adjustment IS in the sub and not via D2.


Is it possible that the Sub's volume control is bypassed? What is the brand and model of your sub?


I also would turn up all the way its crossover to measure the subs full bandwidth and not limit it to 60 hertz.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14148173
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> My configuration causes the Left and Right channel to go through 2 levels of pre-amplification. First the D2 and then an Electrocompaniet EC4.8 preamp.
> 
> When I leveled all the speakers output with an SPL meter my Left and Right channels (and the dub too) had much more db's added through the D2 settings.
> 
> Nevertheless when I run the ARC software and hear the test tones it is evident it bypasses the levels set for the speakers. The Left and Right channels and the sub are much quieter than the rest.
> 
> Is it normal or is it a bug?
> 
> 
> Thanks




One way of testing is to remove the other preamp from the chain and run ARC. If its sounds good with the final ARC settings then the other preamp might be messing up your levels.


----------



## Whitl

Bob


Quick question with respect to setting up the sub to 75db by using the output level on the sub before going to the ARC, what do you do with 2 subs in the system, kill the power on one and adjust to 75db and then repeat for the 2nd sub?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/14148924
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Quick question with respect to setting up the sub to 75db by using the output level on the sub before going to the ARC, what do you do with 2 subs in the system, kill the power on one and adjust to 75db and then repeat for the 2nd sub?



The combined subs should be 75db.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14148020
> 
> 
> Please, you are invited to make comments on all of the above. And especially, do you think there is a way to improve the green setting?
> 
> Gamma didn't help.



If the "green" error is large (around 15%), and if you are using YCbCr for input or output, then the most likely problem is that you have not set the YCbCr "Color Space" correctly.


I'll try to keep this simple: Color Space refers to the math used to convert the YCbCr data format used to store the movie on the discs to the RGB data format the display needs to light up the pixels. One of the more subtle differences in HD video is that different math is used to do this conversion for SD and HD video -- due to different "color primaries" specified for the HD standard.


Now the way things are SUPPOSED to work is that HD color space is used whenever the video sent between two devices is transmitted at 720p or higher, and SD color space is used for lower resolutions. But some devices get this wrong and the Anthem offers a way to force either the input side or the output side to use a specific color space despite the resolution.


If you have this problem, greens will be dull or hot by 15% depending on which way you've got it wrong.


You need to figure out whether the problem is on the input or output side. Use the Anthem's internal test charts to check the output side first. The Setup / Video Output / Color Space setting adjusts the output side. Change it from Auto to HDTV or SDTV as necessary to force the correct color space. Since you are sending 1080p/24 to your display, the Auto setting and the HDTV setting should produce the same results.


When you have the output side correct, then adjust the input side of the Anthem (Video Source Adjust / Picture / Input Color Space for each input that is giving you problems). Since you are sending 1080p/24 to the Anthem, the Auto YCbCr setting and the YCbCr HDTV setting should produce the same results. NOTE: The RGB selection found in that same menu is a separate setting that only applies when RGB data format is being sent to the Anthem. It is not really a Color Space choice (RGB doesn't have "color space"). RGB comes in two flavors of data format and this selection sets the Anthem's input to expect one or the other.


You may also discover that HD vs. SD Color Space issues are most easily corrected by making a setting change in your source or display. Again, since you are sending 1080p for input and output, the HD YCbCr Color Space is the one that the source, the Anthem, and the display really should all be using. But some devices have bugs which won't let you turn that on properly.


-------------------------------------


If those don't fix it for you, and particularly if you still see the problem on the output side (using the Anthem's internal test patterns), and if the problem is relatively minor (i.e. greens off, but only a little), then the odds are your display has a "color decoder" problem. A "color decoder" error simply means that the Color and Tint settings which are correct for Blue are not also correct for both Red and Green.


Some display manufacturers design in deliberate color decoder errors to give their displays a unique "look" in competition to other displays. Typically there are no user controls to correct a color decoder error in the display, but with some displays, choosing a different "picture mode" will also select different color decoding in the background. There may also be Service Menu settings in the display that an ISF technician could access which will adjust the display's color decoder. Check the appropriate forum thread here for your display to see if any such settings are known.


Minor errors in green due to color decoder problems can probably be safely ignored. Fiddling with the Custom Gamma Correction curves in the Anthem (the separate curves for the 3 primary colors -- available via the Live Video Settings Editor application) may cover this up a bit, but will probably do more damage to the image than if you just ignored the color decoder issue.


When faced with minor color decoder issues, generally I like to set the Color and Tint controls for the best "compromise" result for all 3 of Blue, Green, and Red, rather than targeting perfection in any one of those.


----------------------------------------------


Back to "color space": Another possible fix for "color space" problems is to force RGB data format either for input or output. It's OK to use RGB on one side and YCbCr on the other -- the Anthem does the conversion. You should use Studio RGB or this unless you find it impossible to calibrate black levels properly from your nVidia card with Studio RGB, in which case you will be forced to use Extended RGB.


Sending RGB data format gets around the whole Color Space issue. However if your display has a color decoder problem, that will likely remain even if you send it RGB.


----------------------------------------------


One other CAUTION: There is a bug in the current Anthem software that setting Color or Tint on the input side (Video Source Adjust / Picture for the current input) will INCORRECTLY also alter the output of the Anthem's internally generated test patterns.


That means that when evaluating the Anthem's internal test patterns and adjusting your display's controls to best reproduce them, you need to temporarily return the Video Source Adjust / Picture / Color and Tint controls to their factory default values (50) for the Anthem input that is currently selected.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14148146
> 
> 
> The strange thing with the level I've been taking is the high response of the sub. The error message is stating I need to set the sub at -17 or even - 21 The Anthem guys don't understand why the sub is coming off so high. Another thing that is weird is that the test sweeps over ride the sub's internal amp so no matter how low the sub's amp is set (even at the lowest point) the sweeps are not effected by it. That's really got Anthem puzzled. I suggest that by setting the amp's cross over it might be over riding the sub's volume control causing the D2 to take over but when I the volume control still works during playback of a DVD. Then I tried to use a lower crossover on the sub to limit the level in terms of frequiences - that sort of worked but I had to lower it with a cut off of 60hrz and even then the new response in the error message was lower the sub -17 We abandoned that theory since it was limiting the sub's output too much.
> 
> I have a feeling it's the sub, it's size and natural output. Anthem admitted they never faced that kind of sub before and are considering that might me the problem. Which course means they didn't take a wider scope in the creation of the ARC to contend with this kind of problem. The D2 also might need an alteration since internally it can only handle a sub setting of -12 and, in my case, can not deliver what the error message is requesting to compensate for the problem.
> 
> - Scott



Scott, I jut had a silly thought. Are you sure the input you are using on your subwoofer for connection to the Anthem is actually responding to its internal volume control?


Some subwoofers have two distinct inputs -- one of which responds to the volume control, and one which bypasses its volume control.

--Bob


----------



## ditcin

abc999,

Yep, we did all sorts of testing. At one point I changed the sub from by pass (allowing the D2's cut offs to work) to various cut off's like 60hz, 40hz and so on and the final readings were only a few digits off from the on previous. I also put on a DVD and tested the subs volume control and found it worked find. "Something" from the D2 is over shooting the subs internal volume setting during sweeps.

On the brights side, I spoke to Anthem this morning and they said they were writing a "fix" for me - basically a new version of the ARC programe for my sub. It seems the sub has an extremelly narrow frequency range which drops very quickly and puts out a lot of sub-sonic material. It's that very low end that is causing the sub to be registered so high causing the reading to go into error. Which is why the error screen which appears stating the results could not be loading unless the sub was lowered -21 or whatever. The problem is that the gain level on the D2 can only be lowered to -12

In theory Anthem needs to be able to programe the D2 sub gain level to go further at lease another 15 to cover and deal with the exceedingly strong sub-sonic material throwing off the mic.

I know that since I have been on the phone with Anthem about this problem for the past 3 days they have been thrown off and asking me how close the sub is to the mic, wherre is it placed in the room, and if i moved it. What they never understood what the power the sub is able to produce. Seems they haven't come across it before. I told them from the beginning that it goes extremely low beyond hearing. My example was that I also have a butt-kicker and there have been times where i thought I had turned it on - but didn't.

They hope to send me the new ARC programe sometime today.

- Scott


----------



## ditcin

Bob,

No, it not that. As stated, when playing material (like DVDs) the volume control is working. Although, I am using balanced inputs which will raise it a few points - but we've taken that into consideration.

- Scott


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14148173
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> My configuration causes the Left and Right channel to go through 2 levels of pre-amplification. First the D2 and then an Electrocompaniet EC4.8 preamp.
> 
> When I leveled all the speakers output with an SPL meter my Left and Right channels (and the dub too) had much more db's added through the D2 settings.
> 
> Nevertheless when I run the ARC software and hear the test tones it is evident it bypasses the levels set for the speakers. The Left and Right channels and the sub are much quieter than the rest.
> 
> Is it normal or is it a bug?
> 
> 
> Thanks



ARC uses the Setup / Speaker Calibration / Noise Level setting to set the volume of its test sweep tones. Before running ARC, set the volume trim for the left front speaker to 0 and then adjust the Noise Level setting to produce around 75dB from the left front speaker. Then set the volume trim for the subwoofer to 0 and adjust the internal volume control in the subwoofer so that it to is producing around 75dB when fed the same Noise Level.


That will get things set up for ARC's test sweep tones.


But other than the Noise Level setting, ARC ignores AND REPLACES the Setup / Speaker Calibration settings.


That is, ARC measures and determines the right levels for each speaker and uploads those along with uploading adjusted cross over values and the room correction parameters.


And in particular, during its test sweep tones, ARC zeroes out the volume trim settings in Setup / Speaker Calibration.


So long as ARC is able to measure all the speakers without complaint, and as long as the Speaker Calibration values it Calculates and Uploads for you make sense, then you are fine. ARC does not need all the speakers to be trimmed to the same volume DURING its test sweep tones.


After doing an upload of ARC results you should not alter the Setup / Speaker Calibration settings as that will invalidate what ARC loaded for you.


(Do a Save User and/or Installer Settings after doing an ARC Upload to capture the settings ARC Uploaded into those memories as well so that you don't accidentally alter things by later Loading Saved User and/or Installer Settings.)

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

Scott, many of us here have "capable" subs but there appears to be something strange happening with yours if the sub volume control isn't able to knock down the level to the point the Anthem can correctly adjust.


What sub is it?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14149486
> 
> 
> They hope to send me the new ARC programe sometime today.



I hope that does the trick for you!


I'm quite certain that Anthem tested ARC with subs that reproduce well down into the subsonic range. I wonder what it is that is so unusual about your sub?


I wonder, for example, if its volume control doesn't reduce its subsonic output -- i.e., only reduces the higher frequencies? That would be an odd design, but might explain why the sub volume you can "hear" is getting reduced but ARC is still picking up such strong subsonic readings.

--Bob


----------



## ditcin

Bogg,

My sub is the Axiom Ep600

here is a link ...

http://www.axiomaudio.com/ep600.html 


- Scott


----------



## Whitl

Okay that's fine, but which sub output do you adjust to get the 75db, as they can't be done together. They are diagonal to each other in opposite corners of the room. Do you adjust to say 60 db then the other to get the 75db.


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14148991
> 
> 
> The combined subs should be 75db.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/14148924
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Quick question with respect to setting up the sub to 75db by using the output level on the sub before going to the ARC, what do you do with 2 subs in the system, kill the power on one and adjust to 75db and then repeat for the 2nd sub?



Just to add to Tolstoi response, kill the power on Sub 1 and adjust the level on Sub 2 to 72 db. Then turn Sub 1 on (Sub 2 on also) and adjust the sub 1 level to get 75 db total.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/14149711
> 
> 
> Okay that's fine, but which sub output do you adjust to get the 75db, as they can't be done together. They are diagonal to each other in opposite corners of the room. Do you adjust to say 60 db then the other to get the 75db.



If they are the same model of subwoofer, just try to keep their volume settings about equal so that neither of them is carrying the bulk of the load. If there's some variation between them it won't matter. Subwoofers work by "pressurizing" the entire room -- their audio is not directional -- so you won't notice if there's some volume variation between the 2 of them. But you really should adjust both of them equally up or down as you are approaching the 75dB reading so that both amps are doing the same amount of work.


And again, you don't have to be super precise about this 75dB stuff. ARC will properly adjust the trim volume in the D2 for you as part of its setup.


[In reality, each of the subs will likely couple with the room differently, so that the effective volume from each of them will vary even though their volume controls are set the same. But ARC sees the blend of both their outputs and adjusts accordingly. Now if you spot any serious issues in the ARC measurements, you can use the fact that you have two subwoofers as another way to address the problem -- biasing the volume of one against the other, or repositioning just one of them to see what happens.]

--Bob


----------



## TiVolution




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14149682
> 
> 
> Bogg,
> 
> My sub is the Axiom Ep600
> 
> here is a link ...
> 
> http://www.axiomaudio.com/ep600.html
> 
> 
> - Scott



That sub has an internal digital signal processor. Is that interfering with the ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14149682
> 
> 
> Bogg,
> 
> My sub is the Axiom Ep600
> 
> here is a link ...
> 
> http://www.axiomaudio.com/ep600.html
> 
> 
> - Scott



There isn't anything obvious in the user manual that would address this issue.


I wonder, however, whether the DSP in this subwoofer might be doing something unusual with the subsonic frequencies that effectively bypasses the volume knob setting.

--Bob


----------



## ditcin

TiVolution,

I don't know. I did tell Anthem which sub it was and even sent them a link to pass on to the techs for any questions they might have.

- Scott


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14149682
> 
> 
> Bogg,
> 
> My sub is the Axiom Ep600
> 
> here is a link ...
> 
> http://www.axiomaudio.com/ep600.html
> 
> 
> - Scott



It's a nice sub. I'm familiar with it cause my buddy had a pair of them. A very puzzling issue. Let us know how it turns out.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14149869
> 
> 
> TiVolution,
> 
> I don't know. I did tell Anthem which sub it was and even sent them a link to pass on to the techs for any questions they might have.
> 
> - Scott




Have you tried to set the TRIM setting to FULL instead of FLAT? When I saw your ARC graph, its seems that your output at 20 hertz and below is greater than the rest of the frequencies above 33 hertz especially in a small room. Worth a try if you haven't done so. I will start with a lower volume on the SUB also,maybe 8 o'clock position?


----------



## ditcin

abc99,

Yes. Just for the hell of it I went through all the settings. ... and lowered the volume on the sub as low as 7 o'clock. Since getting the ARC on last Friday I've gone through various settings and volume levels. One of cats is very sensitive to the sweeps and runs to me everytime I have another go. I cover her ears with my hands until the test is over.

Didn't hear from Anthem by the end of the day so I'm calling them in the morning in hopes they've come up with something.

- Scott


----------



## mikefl52

I have just one word for Anthem's ARC system and that is brilliant; a step change in sound quality for a very small investment. Mine came into the dealer yesterday and so I rushed off to get it and set it up yesterday evening. I had no problems in connectivity between my wife's laptop and my D1 (yes I think I might be the only D1 owner who subscribes to this thread); uploaded 1.33 first and then inserted the disc that came with ARC.


I had two problems in setting it up:

1) a thunderstorm which decided to roll through just as I started the tone sweeps, so obviously I had to wait for it to roll on through.

2) a difference in bass readings of more than 10dB. I have my set up in a family room not a dedicated theater and it is not the best room for accoustics (large, attached to a kitchen, large 18ft window with no covering, tile floor). I overcame this by choosing a slightly different position and it worked fine.


Attached are the results. The bass is certainly tighter and the overall sound field much more balanced, but the biggest difference I believe is in the 2KHz to 5KHz range where there is more presence and precision. When you switch between Room Eq ON and OFF there is a clear and discernable improvement in my case.


For reference my speakers are:


Fronts B&W804

Center B&W HTM3S

Surrounds DS8S

Sub Velodyne HGS15


The uncorrected surround speakers have a large peak which I believe is due to the forward firing bass/mid that is incorporated in this design when using it as a dipole. This is corrected after intalling the ARC settings.


My post ARC settings are as follows:


Fronts 40Hz

Center 90Hz

Surrounds 75Hz

Sub 120Hz (as pretty much everyone else)


Overall it was pretty easy. I am sure that the 10dB sub variation is letting people know that they should do some accoustic treatments first, not possible in my environment, but I managed to overcome it.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14149771
> 
> 
> Just to add to Tolstoi response, kill the power on Sub 1 and adjust the level on Sub 2 to 72 db. Then turn Sub 1 on (Sub 2 on also) and adjust the sub 1 level to get 75 db total.



Exactly.


----------



## mr_fitz

So I got my eye-one display lt and my setup disc and downloaded colorHCFR.


I have an Anthem D2 and it has the capability of custom gamma curves.


I calibrated the rgb levels so that from 0 to 100 IRE my delta E was under 2 across the board except for 0 where it was about 30.


The colors were a big improvement but my gamma level was 1.75. It was approx this value before calibration as well. My luminence curve is also too high.


So I tried the other custom gamma curve option which is a single variable compared to the 3 rgb curves. I setup the curve so that every point from 0 to 100 IRE the gamma value is now between 2.2 and 2.3. But in doing so my colors are off again. There is no way do both at the same time.


What is the best option to do?


The only other thing I can think of is to use the custom gamma curve that gives me a proper gamma and try to adjust the jvc rs-1 projector rgb levels at one specific amplitude and try to get the color temp right overall.


I tried to switch from normal to A,B,C on the projector but the results were a gamma closer to 1.5. So I left it normal.


Any ideas?


thanks


John


----------



## mr_fitz

So I upgraded from v1.21 to v1.22 and wow it was mucho improved. Dolby Digital now sounded like Dolby TrueHD. Even my wife noticed. Played Transformers that I had recorded on my pvr in HD and holy cow it sounded even better than before. Have played any BD movies yet but it looks promising.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14157716
> 
> 
> So I got my eye-one display lt and my setup disc and downloaded colorHCFR.
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem D2 and it has the capability of custom gamma curves.
> 
> 
> I calibrated the rgb levels so that from 0 to 100 IRE my delta E was under 2 across the board except for 0 where it was about 30.
> 
> 
> The colors were a big improvement but my gamma level was 1.75. It was approx this value before calibration as well. My luminence curve is also too high.
> 
> 
> So I tried the other custom gamma curve option which is a single variable compared to the 3 rgb curves. I setup the curve so that every point from 0 to 100 IRE the gamma value is now between 2.2 and 2.3. But in doing so my colors are off again. There is no way do both at the same time.
> 
> 
> What is the best option to do?
> 
> 
> The only other thing I can think of is to use the custom gamma curve that gives me a proper gamma and try to adjust the jvc rs-1 projector rgb levels at one specific amplitude and try to get the color temp right overall.
> 
> 
> I tried to switch from normal to A,B,C on the projector but the results were a gamma closer to 1.5. So I left it normal.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> John



You can do everything with the 3 color curves that you can do with the single gray scale curve, and more. Using a gray scale curve is, I believe, the equivalent of setting all 3 of the color curves to the same values


Keep in mind that adjusting gamma needs to be done in conjunction with adjusting black and white levels. It is an iterative process.


How are you measuring the resulting gamma -- i.e., your statement that your gamma after adjusting things is 1.75? Also, did you tell your eye-one that you were targeting gamma of 2.2? It might be using 1.8 as its default (sometimes used with computer monitors).


With some displays, calibration is the art of compromise. If you can't alter the service settings in the display, you may have to make a choice between proper color temperature (balance between the 3 colors) from end to end across the gray scale and proper gamma (the shape of the increasing gray scale curve).


What are folks in the projector's thread here saying about adjusting its gamma?

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14157821
> 
> 
> You can do everything with the 3 color curves that you can do with the single gray scale curve, and more. Using a gray scale curve is, I believe, the equivalent of setting all 3 of the color curves to the same values
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that adjusting gamma needs to be done in conjunction with adjusting black and white levels. It is an iterative process.
> 
> 
> How are you measuring the resulting gamma -- i.e., your statement that your gamma after adjusting things is 1.75? Also, did you tell your eye-one that you were targeting gamma of 2.2? It might be using 1.8 as its default (sometimes used with computer monitors).
> 
> 
> With some displays, calibration is the art of compromise. If you can't alter the service settings in the display, you may have to make a choice between proper color temperature (balance between the 3 colors) from end to end across the gray scale and proper gamma (the shape of the increasing gray scale curve).
> 
> 
> What are folks in the projector's thread here saying about adjusting its gamma?
> 
> --Bob



When adjusting the rgb levels my luminance curve was unaffected. My rgb levels were near perfect from 0 to 100 IRE. Delta E of below 2 across the board.


I did adjust my black and white levels after setting the rgb levels but I did not go back and check my rgb levels again. I will try it when I get home but I doubt it will change my gamma from 1.7 to 2.2 but I will try anyway.


One would think that if the rgb levels were perfect and my black and white levels were correct that my gamma should be 2.2. Or are the two not linked like I think they are?


Yes the target was 2.22.


Most I have heard back from have said to calibrate the gamma first then try to adjust the offsets of each color inside the projector.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14157728
> 
> 
> So I upgraded from v1.21 to v1.22 and wow it was mucho improved. Dolby Digital now sounded like Dolby TrueHD. Even my wife noticed. Played Transformers that I had recorded on my pvr in HD and holy cow it sounded even better than before. Have played any BD movies yet but it looks promising.
> 
> 
> John



So the new version of ARC really improves the sound. I have to get the new version downloaded. Any other improvements with the new firmware?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/14159516
> 
> 
> So the new version of ARC really improves the sound. I have to get the new version downloaded. Any other improvements with the new firmware?



The biggest difference to my mind is that ARC V1.2.2 and D2 V1.33, when paired together, produce much more reliable Uploads of ARC results. If something doesn't get Uploaded correctly, ARC will detect it and complain so that you can try again, rather than it leaving the corrupted data value in the D2 without telling you.


ARC V1.2.1 also introduced an improved algorithm for determining the cross overs. You can take advantage of that using prior, ARC V1.1 measurements, but you have to remember to go into the Targets window (ARC Advanced mode) and do an "Auto Detect" so that this new cross over determining algorithm gets applied to your old ARC V1.1 measurements. Then you re-Calculate and re-Upload.


If someone who had been using ARC V1.2.1 with ARC V1.1 measurements missed that step, but then did a whole new set of measurements with ARC V1.2.2, you wouldn't hear the benefit of this change until that new set of measurements was taken, processed, and uploaded.


---------------------------------


Also, carefully read the NEW instructions for how to position the mic for best ARC measurements -- wider spacing than previously recommended and alternating either side of center for successive measurements. See Section 3.15 of the updated D2 V1.3x Operating Manual downloadable from Anthem's public download page for the D2. New measurements done to these new recommendations should ALSO produce better results for many people.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14159246
> 
> 
> When adjusting the rgb levels my luminance curve was unaffected. My rgb levels were near perfect from 0 to 100 IRE. Delta E of below 2 across the board.
> 
> 
> I did adjust my black and white levels after setting the rgb levels but I did not go back and check my rgb levels again. I will try it when I get home but I doubt it will change my gamma from 1.7 to 2.2 but I will try anyway.
> 
> 
> One would think that if the rgb levels were perfect and my black and white levels were correct that my gamma should be 2.2. Or are the two not linked like I think they are?
> 
> 
> Yes the target was 2.22.
> 
> 
> Most I have heard back from have said to calibrate the gamma first then try to adjust the offsets of each color inside the projector.



I agree that you should start with gamma correction before going in to adjust the display's color drivers. (Ideally, of course, gamma correction adjustments would ALSO be made inside the display!) I think of improper gamma correction as just another "torch mode" setting that needs to be undone before you can make good progress with calibration.


What puzzles me is that you say the eye-one was told to target gamma of 2.2 and yet the result it is giving back to you produces gamma of 1.75. Something is not correct there.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14159857
> 
> 
> I agree that you should start with gamma correction before going in to adjust the display's color drivers. (Ideally, of course, gamma correction adjustments would ALSO be made inside the display!) I think of improper gamma correction as just another "torch mode" setting that needs to be undone before you can make good progress with calibration.
> 
> 
> What puzzles me is that you say the eye-one was told to target gamma of 2.2 and yet the result it is giving back to you produces gamma of 1.75. Something is not correct there.
> 
> --Bob



Did you mean a target of 2.2 in the eye-one or in colorHCFR. I set the target in colorHCFR for 2.2. I did not know there was an adjustment in the eye-one. Where is it?


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14157728
> 
> 
> So I upgraded from v1.21 to v1.22 and wow it was mucho improved. Dolby Digital now sounded like Dolby TrueHD. Even my wife noticed. Played Transformers that I had recorded on my pvr in HD and holy cow it sounded even better than before. Have played any BD movies yet but it looks promising.
> 
> 
> John



Sorry my mistake, I meant v1.1 to v1.22


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14160018
> 
> 
> Did you mean a target of 2.2 in the eye-one or in colorHCFR. I set the target in colorHCFR for 2.2. I did not know there was an adjustment in the eye-one. Where is it?



Actually, I've not used these so I can't point you at the settings.


But a display calibration tool has to be told what gamma you are targeting. And if you set it to target 2.2 and it produces 1.75 as the result, then something is not right.


It also puzzles me that you said modifying the color gamma curves didn't alter your gray scale ramp. The only way that should be true is if you made no changes. The gray scale ramp (gray scale gamma response) is simply the combination of the gamma responses of R, G, and B together as those 3 inputs are increased in equal step with each other.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

With my latest ARC Upload I've started to rethink my audio mode preferences again.


In particular, for music, I had previously settled on Stereo for critical listening and on Anthem Logic - Music for surround sound listening. I did not like what PLIIx-Music produced. I found PLIIx-Music to be "too aggressive" in what it tried to steer to the surround speakers.


Now, with ARC, I am getting much more pleasant results from PLIIx-Music. In fact I'm at the point that I now think I prefer it to Anthem Logic - Music for surround sound music listening. I would still recommend Stereo for critical listening.


I use a Music speaker configuration which excludes my Center speaker (but includes the subwoofer), so the center bias adjustment in PLIIx-Music doesn't really apply. Of course Anthem Logic - Music doesn't use the Center speaker at all, so the presence or absence of the Center speaker in the speaker configuration makes no difference for that mode.


I also think I'm happier leaving the Panoramic setting turned off in PLIIx-Music mode.


I'm curious whether any other posters have had improved results like this from PLIIx-Music after Uploading ARC results?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

John,

Just to be sure there isn't something silly going on here, you do realize I hope that after you upload the Custom Gamma correction stuff from Live Video Settings Editor into the D2, you ALSO need to go into the Video Source Adjust / Output menu for EACH D2 INPUT and change the Gamma Correction setting in that menu to use either the gray scale gamma curve you uploaded or the RGB color gamma curves you uploaded. Right?

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

Okay, I'm picking up my ARC Kit by the end of the week.


Can someone please outline a 5 or 10 step process on what needs to be done beginning with the software update which I already did to the latest version. Anything I should be real careful with so as not to render my D2 or any speakers useless.


Does this thing work as simple as Pioneer's receiver calibration? I recognize it's much more advanced, the ARC software that is, but is it relatively simple to achieve a drastic improvement. For example, once ready to go you just put the microphone in the optimal listening position and let it do it's thing similar to Pioneer's method?


Much appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/14160356
> 
> 
> Okay, I'm picking up my ARC Kit by the end of the week.
> 
> 
> Can someone please outline a 5 or 10 step process on what needs to be done beginning with the software update which I already did to the latest version. Anything I should be real careful with so as not to render my D2 or any speakers useless.
> 
> 
> Does this thing work as simple as Pioneer's receiver calibration? I recognize it's much more advanced, the ARC software that is, but is it relatively simple to achieve a drastic improvement. For example, once ready to go you just put the microphone in the optimal listening position and let it do it's thing similar to Pioneer's method?
> 
> 
> Much appreciated.



Upgrade the firmware in your D2 to V1.33 -- available from Anthem's public download page. Follow the instructions the installer display's when you start it. In particular, you need to make sure you have no powered HDMI connections during the install, and you need to do a Reload Factory Defaults prior to the install.


Your Setup menu settings can be stashed in Saved User Settings for reloading after the install. However, if you are upgrading from V1.29j or older, your Video Source Adjust menu settings will not survive the install. The V1.33 installer folder also includes Live Video Settings Editor V1.30a. Prior to doing the Reload Factory Defaults for the install, run LVSE, do a GET of your Video Source Adjust menu settings and SAVE them to a file on the PC. You can reverse that process after the install to restore them as well. This and the Reload Saved User Settings can be used to restore your settings after the install.


-----------------------------------------


Update your ARC application to V1.2.2 -- also available from the Anthem public download page. Your original ARC installation CD includes 2 calibration and licensing files -- with names that include the serial # of your D2 and the serial # of your uniquely calibrated ARC microphone. Open the ARC V1.2.2 folder you downloaded from the Anthem site and you will find a Setup program. Copy those two calibration files into the same folder as the Setup program. Then run the Setup program to install ARC V1.2.2. If you have previously installed an older version of ARC it will delete it.


-------------------------------------------


Download the latest version of the D2 V1.3x Operating Manual from the Anthem public download page and read the new Section 3.15 in there. In particular, look at its instructions for mic positioning. You will need to position the mic to at least 5 separate locations. ARC takes measurements at each location and uses the variation it hears between the locations to distinguish room response from the inherent performance of your speakers. All the mic locations need to be at seated ear height or close to it and with the mic pointing straight up. The individual mic locations need to be at least 24 inches apart from each other. The #1 position must be at your dead center listening position and then you must alternate either side of center for subsequent mic positions.


Prior to running the ARC measurements, there is another step to do to get the test tone volumes correct:


Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB. Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up). Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.


[ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]


Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position. There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.


ARC will use the Noise Level setting you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones, and the adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, can be level adjusted properly to match. If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.


Back out of the Setup menu. Run the ARC application.


---------------------------------------------------------


Prior to doing ARC measurements, you must tell ARC what speakers you want it to use -- e.g., whether or not you have rear speakers for example.


If you decide you want your Music speaker configuration to be distinct from your Movie configuration then ARC will do 2 entire passes, i.e., you'll need to reposition the mic all over again for the Music pass.


Setting up ARC goes in 4 steps. First you take your Measurements. Then ARC Calculates its correction parameters. Then ARC Uploads those to the D2. And finally you need to go into Setup / Source Setup for each D2 input and turn Room EQ = ON. The ARC Upload will also change your speaker cross overs and your speaker volume levels. After doing the ARC Upload, it is wise to do a Save User and/or Installer Settings to record those changes in the memories. Then if you ever need to Reload Saved Settings you won't accidentally undo the settings ARC calculated for those. ARC also uploads room correction parameters which you will not see in the Setup menu, but which are there nonetheless.


Your Listener Position (i.e., speaker distances) and the Polarity and Phase settings for your subwoofer are not modified by ARC. You need to set those manually. You can set those either before or after doing the ARC measurements and upload of results. The ARC results will just work better once you've made the correct manual settings for those.


But don't fiddle with your Speaker Configuration, or cross overs, or Speaker Calibration settings as that will mess up what ARC has set up. You can, of course, always re-do the ARC measurements and upload new results. If you still like your most recent measurements, and nothing needs to be changed in the speaker configuration ARC used for those measurements, then there is no need to re-Measure. Run ARC in Advanced mode, open the file it saved with the measurements and calculations and just re-Upload that. This will also correct any Setup menu changes you made by mistake after the last ARC Upload.


------------------------------------------


ARC can be run in Advanced mode to get more control over the process. I recommend you do that. In Advanced mode, you tell ARC when to Measure, when to Calculate, and when to Upload. You can also view the Targets window which will show you some of the decisions ARC has made in its calculations. I strongly advise you don't change any of the Targets settings on your own. Go with what ARC suggests. In particular, do *NOT* raise the upper EQ frequency above 5KHz. Even though increasing it makes the calculated results curves look better above 5KHz that result is misleading. Frequencies that high are too directional, which means what the ARC mic picks up at the different listening positions contains variations that have nothing to do with what ARC is really looking for. I.e, there's no good data for it to use up there as regards room response.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14160187
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> Just to be sure there isn't something silly going on here, you do realize I hope that after you upload the Custom Gamma correction stuff from Live Video Settings Editor into the D2, you ALSO need to go into the Video Source Adjust / Output menu for EACH D2 INPUT and change the Gamma Correction setting in that menu to use either the gray scale gamma curve you uploaded or the RGB color gamma curves you uploaded. Right?
> 
> --Bob



Yes I did thank you. I changed it in the live video settings editor and then verified it in the video source adjust.


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14160091
> 
> 
> Actually, I've not used these so I can't point you at the settings.
> 
> 
> But a display calibration tool has to be told what gamma you are targeting. And if you set it to target 2.2 and it produces 1.75 as the result, then something is not right.
> 
> 
> It also puzzles me that you said modifying the color gamma curves didn't alter your gray scale ramp. The only way that should be true is if you made no changes. The gray scale ramp (gray scale gamma response) is simply the combination of the gamma responses of R, G, and B together as those 3 inputs are increased in equal step with each other.
> 
> --Bob



I do not believe there is a target value for the colorimeter as it only takes measurements. It's the colorHCFR software that has the option for gamma target.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14160681
> 
> 
> I do not believe there is a target value for the colorimeter as it only takes measurements. It's the colorHCFR software that has the option for gamma target.



Yes, this setting would be in the software.


So do I understand you correctly? You told the software to produce a gamma of 2.2, and it guided you through the steps to get that via the Custom adjustment curves in Live Video Settings Editor. But then after installing those curves in the D2 and looking at the results, it told you your gamma was still 1.75?


This makes no sense to me.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14160723
> 
> 
> Yes, this setting would be in the software.
> 
> 
> So do I understand you correctly? You told the software to produce a gamma of 2.2, and it guided you through the steps to get that via the Custom adjustment curves in Live Video Settings Editor. But then after installing those curves in the D2 and looking at the results, it told you your gamma was still 1.75?
> 
> 
> This makes no sense to me.
> 
> --Bob



That's what I'm sayin. There was no guiding, I played with the rgb levels in the D2 so that they were flat and my gamma ended up being 1.75. Now I adjusted my black and white levels after this so I don't know if that messed things up.


I going home tonight to play with them again to see if I didn't load them properly and I'll check it over again.


----------



## ensmarcum

mr fitz,


after doing the same calibrations you did with your jvc, that i did on my sony kdl52xbr2 tv, i came up with the same results, my gamma was about 1.75. I havent messed around with the gamma curves on the d2 because well we just had a baby girl, and i dont know how the hell it works anyway. is there a good guide for adjusting the gamma in the d2 and measuring it? i know the basics which bob wrote before. anyway, you are not alone and I would like to know how we can work this out too. might be an eyeone problem or hcfr problem i am thinking. also can anyone tell me how to change the gamma inside a tv? i have the service manual for my tv and have changed the gray scale inside the service menu, which i am very comfortable with. anyway, anyone got any clues? Bob? hahaha


----------



## bluemark81

I don't know much about the PS3, but I am tired of waiting for a Blu-Ray player that will decode all audio codecs and output it as a PCM signal for the Anthem to handle.


Can anyone tell me if the PS3 with the software (2.30) will actually decode DTS-MA and output it to the Anthem as a PCM signal via HDMI?


My understanding is that the PS3 is still one of the best available and even better than the new DMP-BD50 from Panasonic.


What are the different memory capacities for on the PS3's? They range from 20 gig hard drives to 80 gig. Why would I need a large hard drive?

I assume the larger memories is more for gaming than for movies?


Thanks


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14161639
> 
> 
> I don't know much about the PS3, but I am tired of waiting for a Blu-Ray player that will decode all audio codecs and output it as a PCM signal for the Anthem to handle.
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me if the PS3 with the software (2.30) will actually decode DTS-MA and output it to the Anthem as a PCM signal via HDMI?
> 
> 
> My understanding is that the PS3 is still one of the best available and even better than the new DMP-BD50 from Panasonic.
> 
> 
> What are the different memory capacities for on the PS3's? They range from 20 gig hard drives to 80 gig. Why would I need a large hard drive?
> 
> I assume the larger memories is more for gaming than for movies?
> 
> 
> Thanks



The current firmware is 2.36 and Yes it will decode dts-ma to LPCM that the D2 can handle.


I think the 80g (60g also) has wireless connectivity aside from the hard drive capacity


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/14161444
> 
> 
> mr fitz,
> 
> 
> after doing the same calibrations you did with your jvc, that i did on my sony kdl52xbr2 tv, i came up with the same results, my gamma was about 1.75. I havent messed around with the gamma curves on the d2 because well we just had a baby girl, and i dont know how the hell it works anyway. is there a good guide for adjusting the gamma in the d2 and measuring it? i know the basics which bob wrote before. anyway, you are not alone and I would like to know how we can work this out too. might be an eyeone problem or hcfr problem i am thinking. also can anyone tell me how to change the gamma inside a tv? i have the service manual for my tv and have changed the gray scale inside the service menu, which i am very comfortable with. anyway, anyone got any clues? Bob? hahaha



I use colorfacts with eye1pro for my video calibration. I also set gamma targets to 2.2 when I do my calibration. With my Epson 1080ub, I get a gamma of 2.1. With other PJ's its between 1.8 and 2.45. Maybe its the limitation of the PJ or calibration technique.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14160614
> 
> 
> Download the latest version of the D2 V1.3x Operating Manual from the Anthem public download page and read the new Section 3.15 in there. In particular, look at its instructions for mic positioning. You will need to position the mic to at least 5 separate locations. ARC takes measurements at each location and uses the variation it hears between the locations to distinguish room response from the inherent performance of your speakers. All the mic locations need to be at seated ear height or close to it and with the mic pointing straight up. The individual mic locations need to be at least 24 inches apart from each other. The #1 position must be at your dead center listening position and then you must alternate either side of center for subsequent mic positions.
> 
> 
> (... long but informationally packed post ...)
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


This was an awesome 'manual in a post' description. I'm printing it out, like many of your posts. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14161639
> 
> 
> I don't know much about the PS3, but I am tired of waiting for a Blu-Ray player that will decode all audio codecs and output it as a PCM signal for the Anthem to handle.
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me if the PS3 with the software (2.30) will actually decode DTS-MA and output it to the Anthem as a PCM signal via HDMI?
> 
> 
> My understanding is that the PS3 is still one of the best available and even better than the new DMP-BD50 from Panasonic.
> 
> 
> What are the different memory capacities for on the PS3's? They range from 20 gig hard drives to 80 gig. Why would I need a large hard drive?
> 
> I assume the larger memories is more for gaming than for movies?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Absolutely get a PS3! It is the bee's knees with the Anthems, perhaps even the cat's pajamas. I'm watching one as I type this.


One caveat: Be sure to get the 40GB PS3 model *ONLY*. The 40GB model uses newer versions of the high powered processing chips that run cooler, and that means its fan is much less likely to kick in. I.e., for Blu-Ray playback, it is QUIET. *ALL* of the other PS3 models, including the recently re-introduced 80GB model, run much hotter and are much more likely to exhibit annoying amounts of fan noise.


The disc size in the PS3 is more or less irrelevant for Blu-Ray playback. It is also possible to buy a larger disc drive and put it in yourself (Sony provides instructions for doing this) if you ever needed to.


I only recommend the PS3 as a Blu-Ray player (and of course for PS3 games I suppose). I recommend you continue to use some other player for other disc formats, including standard DVDs.


Also plan on getting an IR2BT remote converter which will allow you to control the PS3 (which uses a BlueTooth radio remote) using any competent, universal, programmable IR remote control -- such as the Logitech Harmony.


ETA: I just read the other response above. The 40GB PS3 also comes with wireless internet stuff built in. No problem there. It lacks the ability to play SACD discs (use another player as I suggested above) and also lacks any backwards compatibility with older PlayStation games, which of course doesn't matter if you are buying it as a Blu-Ray player.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand

Major disappointment tonight.







My ARC-1 kit finally came today, 2 1/2 months after I ordered it. I spent several hours prepping my room, upgrading to v 1.33 and ARC 1.2.2, and when I am just getting really excited to measure and calibrate with ARC, it won't work. What's up? That's when I noticed that the serial numbers on the CD don't match the numbers on my D2! Apparently my dealer screwed up and sent me the wrong kit







I really doubt that Anthem screwed up, as I emailed a tech at Anthem my serial numbers to make sure my kit was coming. This is not quickly fixed either, as my dealer is a five hour drive away, and my kit was probably shipped off to some other unlucky D2 owner.


Anyone out there in OK, TX or maybe KS get an ARC-1 kit from Audio Midwest in Stillwater, OK that has the wrong serial numbers too? Maybe we'll get lucky and if you have mine, I'll have yours, and we can ship to each other and cut out the dealer time. PM me with the serial numbers and we'll see if we match.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/14162353
> 
> 
> Major disappointment tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My ARC-1 kit finally came today, 2 1/2 months after I ordered it. I spent several hours prepping my room, upgrading to v 1.33 and ARC 1.2.2, and when I am just getting really excited to measure and calibrate with ARC, it won't work. What's up? That's when I noticed that the serial numbers on the CD don't match the numbers on my D2! Apparently my dealer screwed up and sent me the wrong kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really doubt that Anthem screwed up, as I emailed a tech at Anthem my serial numbers to make sure my kit was coming. This is not quickly fixed either, as my dealer is a five hour drive away, and my kit was probably shipped off to some other unlucky D2 owner.
> 
> 
> Anyone out there in OK, TX or maybe KS get an ARC-1 kit from Audio Midwest in Stillwater, OK that has the wrong serial numbers too? Maybe we'll get lucky and if you have mine, I'll have yours, and we can ship to each other and cut out the dealer time. PM me with the serial numbers and we'll see if we match.



Deep Sigh!


The 2 license and calibration files have file names which are a combo of your D2's serial # and the serial # of the microphone. Double check the file names against your microphone as well. If the mic serial #'s match then you are probably correct -- the wrong kit was sent to you.


If the mic serial #'s are also wrong then that means the wrong CD was put in the box with the mic -- which is likely a mistake at Anthem unless your dealer opened up a pair of ARCs and swapped the discs.


----------------------------------------


But you are probably correct that it is a dealer problem. The dealer probably didn't realize that ARC boxes had to be sent to the correct D2 owners, got more than one ARC box in, and screwed up who they got handed to.


This is a cautionary tale for ARC upgrade purchasers. If you are picking up your ARC kit or talking to the dealer about sending it to you, have your D2 serial # handy and make sure you get the correct upgrade kit!


ETA: If you *DO* manage to find the other unlucky D2 owner, remember that you can't just swap the CDs. You will also have to swap the microphones. Those files pair a specific microphone to a specific D2 -- i.e. they contain the calibration data for that one, specific microphone. The stand and cable don't have to be swapped of course.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Having been an owner of a TagMcLaren processor for quite sometime before the D2 I have benn using the RoomEqWizard extensively. It's a wonderful piece of software. I wish we could have it adapted to the ARC. Go have a look you will understand why.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14162172
> 
> 
> The current firmware is 2.36 and Yes it will decode dts-ma to LPCM that the D2 can handle.
> 
> 
> I think the 80g (60g also) has wireless connectivity aside from the hard drive capacity



I should have asked if it will decode all the current audio codecs to LPCM for the Anthem as well, but I'm quite sure it can.


Also, is the PS3 my best bet right now for a Blu-Ray player? Anything it doesn't have that I should be looking for?


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14162898
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Having been an owner of a TagMcLaren processor for quite sometime before the D2 I have benn using the RoomEqWizard extensively. It's a wonderful piece of software. I wish we could have it adapted to the ARC. Go have a look you will understand why.



Yes, I have been using REW for about 2 1/2 years now with a BFD and a Midi interface to allow me to send filter curves to the BFD. Very nice software, the price is right (free), and it was a huge step up from running manual test tones one at a time! I just unhooked all my BFD gear last night, thinking I could run ARC, but my previous post details why that did not happen. So I have not run ARC yet to be able to compare, but I fully expect the results to be way better than what I could achieve with anything else I have ever used.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14162347
> 
> 
> Also plan on getting an IR2BT remote converter which will allow you to control the PS3 (which uses a BlueTooth radio remote) using any competent, universal, programmable IR remote control -- such as the Logitech Harmony.



Just to add to this: the PS3 comes with a hand held blue tooth controller remote. There is also an add-on PS3 blueray remote (like a traditional remote, only bluetooth). It's only necessary to go the IR2BT route if you want to use a universal remote.


For awhile, I had the mistaken impression that the ps3 was not remote controllable out of the box and that was probably one of the reasons it took me so long to jump on board.


----------



## ASW

Last night my D2 went nuts. My installer was modifying some programming on my RTI T4 when he turns on my system . . . and . . . no video.


The D2 starts up on my Tivo S3 connected by HDMI. It seems to lock on to the audio, but can't lock on to video. The D2 display flashes between Tivo (Sat 1) Main and "powering on." Occasionally the display goes purple. I switched to component in for the Tivo and it didn't help.


In some cases the D2 has displayed a video signal fine only to have it die after a while. When the video fails, it fails on all inputs and on HDMI, S-video, composite and component inputs.


I tried re-installing firmware 1.31 and 1.33 and back to 1.31 with not much success. This morning I was able to get a video signal eventually (in this case I started from a component in source and was able to switch to my HDMI Tivo). After about 2 minutes I powered down the system, so I do not know how long the video would have remained stable before it died again.


I will give Nick a call today, but does anyone have any thoughts? It seems hard to believe this is a hardware problem, since I get video intermittently. Maybe in programming the T4 the D2 was fed something through the serial input that corrupted my firmware? I am thinking of trying flash eraser and re-flashing the D2 firmware, although I have so many changes to the D2 that a full erase without being able to fully back up the D2 settings will be painful.


HELP!


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14162421
> 
> 
> This is a cautionary tale for ARC upgrade purchasers. If you are picking up your ARC kit or talking to the dealer about sending it to you, have your D2 serial # handy and make sure you get the correct upgrade kit!
> 
> 
> ETA: If you *DO* manage to find the other unlucky D2 owner, remember that you can't just swap the CDs. You will also have to swap the microphones. Those files pair a specific microphone to a specific D2 -- i.e. they contain the calibration data for that one, specific microphone. The stand and cable don't have to be swapped of course.
> 
> --Bob



It would be nice if the S/N of the microphone was printed on the mic, too. I had 2 D2s and 2 ARCs and, in doing the swap, I had no way to tell one mic from another.


----------



## Tolstoi

One thing that I do to ensure that I have a stable system when I do the measurements is to run the audio on all channels for at least 30 minutes ideally 1 hour. I also unplug all triggers connected to my amplifiers. This is to ensure that when the D2 goes through the different on/off cycle for the measurements and the upload the amplifiers will always stay on and warm.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14160152
> 
> 
> With my latest ARC Upload I've started to rethink my audio mode preferences again.
> 
> 
> In particular, for music, I had previously settled on Stereo for critical listening and on Anthem Logic - Music for surround sound listening. I did not like what PLIIx-Music produced. I found PLIIx-Music to be "too aggressive" in what it tried to steer to the surround speakers.
> 
> --Bob



I agree with you PLIIx for music is killing some of sense of dept that we get out of a excellent Stereo system. I finally decided never to use it for music listening.


I will retry that with the ARC on.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/14162278
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> This was an awesome 'manual in a post' description. I'm printing it out, like many of your posts. Thanks.




Bob/LEVESQUE you should link that post to the first one.


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14163595
> 
> 
> It would be nice if the S/N of the microphone was printed on the mic, too. I had 2 D2s and 2 ARCs and, in doing the swap, I had no way to tell one mic from another.



owners of upgraded D1-> D2 units need to be aware that their dealer submits their "post" upgrade serial number to Anthem for the ARC kit since it gets a new serial number after the upgrade is complete. In my case I received the pre updated serial number on my software and it kept telling me there was a serial number mismatch. I called Anthem and they summized that the dealer had my pre upgrade serial # on file and submitted that one instead of the new serial number given to my D2 (D1-HD) after the upgrade. In this case

all Anthem needed to do was to send me the new files with the correct serial #, in this scenario I was able to keep te mic.


----------



## jviggi

I read this forum almost every day and the advice is awesome. I don't think I could have made my D2 perform as great as it does without this forum and all of you smart people. This is my first post.

I installed and ran ARC yesterday. Everthing went as planned. I took Bob's advice and calibrated the sub as he suggested first. I used five positions in a quasi arc shape. Three positions on the viewing sofa and then the left and right off to the side and slightly in front of the sofa seat. I was surprised that it took a while in the calculate mode (must be a lot of crunching). When it was complete I grabbed "Dave Mattews and Tim Reynolds at Radio City". It started from where I had previously stopped it and instantly I was shocked. I heard sounds that I never heard before. I then went to "Celine", "Blackhawk Down" and "Master and Commander". The sound stage was so full and complete. Dialogue seems slightly reduced but seems to fit better with whatever else is going on. My room now sounds completly full of sound. Actually, it doesn't seem as loud and I grabbed my trusty Radio Shack SPM to check and I was right there at 85-90db.

My curves look well corrected but I don't know how to print them or open them with another program but that's OK.

When I checked speaker setup, ARC set all my crossovers at 80 THX. It says 80 THX. Most have reported a higher crossover and I don't recall anyone stating the THX term. It sort of caught me off guard but I assume it's OK or good. Has anyone else seen this?

Again, Thank you all for your great advice and I love my home theater and my PS3.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14163087
> 
> 
> I should have asked if it will decode all the current audio codecs to LPCM for the Anthem as well, but I'm quite sure it can.
> 
> 
> Also, is the PS3 my best bet right now for a Blu-Ray player? Anything it doesn't have that I should be looking for?



As I said, I recommend the 40GB PS3 for use with the AVM-50 or D2 as a Blu-Ray player (and ONLY! as a Blu-Ray player). I don't believe any of the crop of summer players is better. Some of the end-of-year players may give it competition. This is a rapidly evolving market, but right now the 40GB PS3 is, in my opinion, the clear choice for AVM-50 and D2 owners in the market for a Blu-Ray player "right now".


The 40GB PS3 *DOES NOT PLAY SACD DISCS!* Not even a little bit. As stated above, if the disc isn't Blu-Ray, I suggest you pair the PS3 with some other player such as the Oppo.


[Other PS3 models *DO* play SACD discs -- converting them to HDMI LPCM. But those are the hotter running models that will likely annoy you with fan noise. Stay away from them.]


No Sony player, including the PS3 will play DVD-Audio discs, and that is not likely to change. Sony is a major force behind SACD which is a competitor format to DVD-Audio.


The 40GB PS3, when paired with the AVM-50 or D2 will do everything that needs to be done for playing Blu-Ray content as well as you could wish. It also has the fastest load times and responsiveness of any Blu-Ray player. And it's a bargain given current Blu-Ray player pricing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/14163151
> 
> 
> Just to add to this: the PS3 comes with a hand held blue tooth controller remote. There is also an add-on PS3 blueray remote (like a traditional remote, only bluetooth). It's only necessary to go the IR2BT route if you want to use a universal remote.
> 
> 
> For awhile, I had the mistaken impression that the ps3 was not remote controllable out of the box and that was probably one of the reasons it took me so long to jump on board.



Yes, thanks for that clarification!


You can use the bundled game controller as a wireless remote when playing Blu-Ray movies -- as well as for everything else the PS3 does. Some owners are quite happy with that. The optional, Sony, Blu-Ray wireless controller (also BlueTooth, and about $20) is much better for folks used to traditional player remotes. It's biggest problem is that it has no backlight for the keys. You can have that optional Blu-Ray remote and one or more game controllers paired with the PS3 simultaneously.


If you are a fan of programmable universal remotes such as the Logitech Harmony series, the IR2BT converter box is a must have. Be aware that you will have to fight off the crowd trying to get their hands on one of these gizmos.


One weirdness about the PS3's BlueTooth remote setup is that you can only have one "blu-ray style" remote "paired" with it at a time. So if you are adjusting the setup in your programmable remote (where the IR2BT box is the device paired with the PS3 as its one and only "blu-ray style" remote) you can't ALSO use Sony's optional Blu-Ray remote at the same time to compare functionality. That's a nuisance, but only while you are setting up your programmable remote.


Lastly, when installing firmware updates for the PS3, you *HAVE TO* use the game controller that came with the PS3. So don't discard it after you get your programmable remote set up. [The game controller pairs with "port 1" on the PS3 and that port has special privileges which are essential during PS3 firmware installs.]

--Bob


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14165157
> 
> 
> As I said, I recommend the 40GB PS3 for use with the AVM-50 or D2 as a Blu-Ray player (and ONLY! as a Blu-Ray player). I don't believe any of the crop of summer players is better. Some of the end-of-year players may give it competition. This is a rapidly evolving market, but right now the 40GB PS3 is, in my opinion, the clear choice for AVM-50 and D2 owners in the market for a Blu-Ray player "right now".
> 
> 
> The 40GB PS3 *DOES NOT PLAY SACD DISCS!* Not even a little bit. As stated above, if the disc isn't Blu-Ray, I suggest you pair the PS3 with some other player such as the Oppo.
> 
> 
> [Other PS3 models *DO* play SACD discs -- converting them to HDMI LPCM. But those are the hotter running models that will likely annoy you with fan noise. Stay away from them.]
> 
> 
> No Sony player, including the PS3 will play DVD-Audio discs, and that is not likely to change. Sony is a major force behind SACD which is a competitor format to DVD-Audio.
> 
> 
> The 40GB PS3, when paired with the AVM-50 or D2 will do everything that needs to be done for playing Blu-Ray content as well as you could wish. It also has the fastest load times and responsiveness of any Blu-Ray player. And it's a bargain given current Blu-Ray player pricing.
> 
> --Bob



I wanted to add that the fan noise from the 80GB PS3 is just as Bob says. The fan is very loud.


Also, the PS3 is nice for streaming music from a PC, but it gives the D2 a "5.1" PCM signal through HDMI (have not tried it with the optical out) even if the music is stereo. You can only use the 5.1 processing and not the 2 channel processing such as AL-Music.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14163595
> 
> 
> It would be nice if the S/N of the microphone was printed on the mic, too. I had 2 D2s and 2 ARCs and, in doing the swap, I had no way to tell one mic from another.



That's a really good point! You should pass it on to Anthem.


It shouldn't be hard for them to stamp the serial # on a sticky label and apply it to the mic as part of the pack out process in manufacturing, the same way they label the plastic case the ARC install CD comes in.


One thing I've not found out yet is whether the mic has an internal (electronic) serial # that gets validated when you fire up the ARC application?


I.e., if you accidentally plug in the wrong mic will ARC reject it since its electronic serial # doesn't match the serialized calibration files installed with ARC? Currently, that would be your only way to know that you had accidentally grabbed the wrong mic. The USB connection to the mic should support such a test, but I don't know if it actually does or not.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14163669
> 
> 
> Bob/LEVESQUE you should link that post to the first one.



I agree. LEVESQUE, that one should probably go in the Setup section of links.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/14164014
> 
> 
> owners of upgraded D1-> D2 units need to be aware that their dealer submits their "post" upgrade serial number to Anthem for the ARC kit since it gets a new serial number after the upgrade is complete. In my case I received the pre updated serial number on my software and it kept telling me there was a serial number mismatch. I called Anthem and they summized that the dealer had my pre upgrade serial # on file and submitted that one instead of the new serial number given to my D2 (D1-HD) after the upgrade. In this case
> 
> all Anthem needed to do was to send me the new files with the correct serial #, in this scenario I was able to keep te mic.



That's a great heads up! Thanks for that!

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14165274
> 
> 
> One thing I've not found out yet is whether the mic has an internal (electronic) serial # that gets validated when you fire up the ARC application?
> 
> 
> I.e., if you accidentally plug in the wrong mic will ARC reject it since its electronic serial # doesn't match the serialized calibration files installed with ARC? Currently, that would be your only way to know that you had accidentally grabbed the wrong mic. The USB connection to the mic should support such a test, but I don't know if it actually does or not.
> 
> --Bob



I don't know if it checks the identity of the mic or if the salient point is the unique mic correction data (assuming it is unique). Of course, I could try the old mic but (1) it would involve unpacking the older D2 and (2) I am afraid I might mix them up!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jviggi* /forum/post/14164809
> 
> 
> When I checked speaker setup, ARC set all my crossovers at 80 THX. It says 80 THX. Most have reported a higher crossover and I don't recall anyone stating the THX term. It sort of caught me off guard but I assume it's OK or good. Has anyone else seen this?



The "THX" label is nothing special. When Anthem applies for THX certification, they need to state which settings are to be used for the testing. Apparently they just decided to label them in the Setup menu as well.


Unless your are trying to reproduce Anthem's THX certification testing (which would be kind of silly), you can safely ignore those "THX" labels. Selecting the settings that show them gains you nothing special. Find the "right" settings for your setup without regard to whether they happen to be the ones that also show that THX label.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14165303
> 
> 
> I don't know if it checks the identity of the mic or if the salient point is the unique mic correction data (assuming it is unique). Of course, I could try the old mic but (1) it would involve unpacking the older D2 and (2) I am afraid I might mix them up!



The mics are, indeed, separately calibrated. I don't know what variance there is in the manufacturing for the mics -- i.e., how much the individual mic calibration files might differ, but they do differ. Which means you really do want to get the right mic paired up with the right calibration file.


I'm going to send Nick an email and ask on this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jviggi* /forum/post/14164809
> 
> 
> When I checked speaker setup, ARC set all my crossovers at 80 THX.



It is certainly unusual for ARC to settle on the same cross over for all speakers. Have you had your room audio treated -- bass absorbing material applied for example?


Since this is so unusual, do me a favor and double-check. Run ARC in Advanced mode and Open (File menu) the file with your saved ARC Measurements and Calculations. The ARC computer doesn't have to be attached to the D2 to do this. Now view the Targets window.


Check that the cross overs in the Targets window all match the 80 Hz values you are now seeing in the D2's Setup menu.


If so, then you are good to go! If not, then something got messed up in your Upload of ARC results. The cross overs shown in the Targets window should be what got Uploaded into the D2's Setup menu. If you spot a problem will have to try to figure out what happened.

--Bob


----------



## jviggi

_Unless your are trying to reproduce Anthem's THX certification testing (which would be kind of silly), you can safely ignore those "THX" labels. Selecting the settings that show them gains you nothing special. Find the "right" settings for your setup without regard to whether they happen to be the ones that also show that THX label.

--Bob_


Thanks Bob,

Maybe I did not make myself clear. I did not pick THX. When ARC was complete, that is the way my crossovers were set by ARC. All speakers are set at 80 THX by ARC and it sounds terrific. I have a Mirage BP400 subwoofer, Energy Veritas 2.4 fronts and rears and a Paradyne Studio center.

Does a crossover at 80 sound OK?


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jviggi* /forum/post/14164809
> 
> 
> When I checked speaker setup, ARC set all my crossovers at 80 THX. It says 80 THX.



Did you by chance forget to turn ARC ON for your source in the D2 setup menu/source setup menu ?


My center speaker is a Paradigm Studio cc-590 and I get a xover of 40 Hz. Of course the xover points are set according to the combination of speaker performance and room acoustics.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14165765
> 
> 
> Did you by chance forget to turn ARC ON for your source in the D2 setup menu/source setup menu ?
> 
> 
> My center speaker is a Paradigm Studio cc-590 and I get a xover of 40 Hz. Of course the xover points are set according to the combination of speaker performance and room acoustics.



Room EQ ON or OFF won't alter the cross overs displayed in the Setup / Speaker Configuration menu. Since everything is sounding fine for him odds are everything worked right. It's just unusual to have all the cross overs come in at the same value -- which is why I wanted him to check the Targets window in the ARC application to be sure.

--Bob


----------



## seismo

Sorry, deleted message


----------



## jviggi

_Room EQ ON or OFF won't alter the cross overs displayed in the Setup / Speaker Configuration menu. Since everything is sounding fine for him odds are everything worked right. It's just unusual to have all the cross overs come in at the same value -- which is why I wanted him to check the Targets window in the ARC application to be sure.

--Bob_


I never set any targets. I ran ARC in the STD mode and not the advanced mode.

I just went and checked the history and they were set by ARC as follows:

L/R 45

Center 50

L/R surrounds 90

Sub 90

Room gain 3.94

Max equalizer 5000

Thanks again


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jviggi* /forum/post/14166479
> 
> _Room EQ ON or OFF won't alter the cross overs displayed in the Setup / Speaker Configuration menu. Since everything is sounding fine for him odds are everything worked right. It's just unusual to have all the cross overs come in at the same value -- which is why I wanted him to check the Targets window in the ARC application to be sure.
> 
> --Bob_
> 
> 
> I never set any targets. I ran ARC in the STD mode and not the advanced mode.
> 
> I just went and checked the history and they were set by ARC as follows:
> 
> L/R 45
> 
> Center 50
> 
> L/R surrounds 90
> 
> Sub 90
> 
> Room gain 3.94
> 
> Max equalizer 5000
> 
> Thanks again



Those Targets ARC chose for you look fine. Now, the big question -- are those the crossovers you are NOW seeing in the D2's Setup / Speaker Configuration? The ARC Upload should have uploaded those cross overs into the Setup menu, along with uploading the speaker calibration (volume trim) levels and the room correction parameters.


If your Setup / Speaker Configuration menu is *STILL* showing 80 Hz crossovers after the Upload of ARC results then something got messed up. Perhaps you did a Reload Saved User Settings or a Reload Factory Defaults after the ARC Upload and overwrote the settings ARC Uploaded for you.


If you find that your Setup settings are wrong, you can do the ARC Upload again without having to re-Measure:


Connect the ARC computer to the D2. You won't need the microphone. Run ARC in Advanced mode. Open (File menu) the file with your saved ARC Measurements and Calculations. The charts showing your measurements and ARCs calculations should now appear. Then tell ARC to Upload those results again. Among other things, this will re-Upload the Setup menu settings ARC is trying to make.


After the Upload, double check that the cross over settings in Setup / Speaker Configuration match what ARC displays in its Targets window. Also check your Setup / Speaker Calibration settings to see if they too make sense. ARC doesn't display what Speaker Calibration settings it is trying to Upload, but it will likely be obvious if something is screwy -- e.g., if the Setup / Speaker Calibration settings are still all 0dB after the Upload then something is screwy.


If you are using the latest version of the ARC Application (V1.2.2) with the latest version of the D2 firmware (V1.33), you should not be having any problems in the ARC Upload process, but of course that won't prevent you from manually screwing up the Setup menu settings yourself after the Upload if you aren't careful.


Once you are happy that the ARC Upload has got everything into the D2 correctly, then do a Setup / Save User (and/or Installer) Settings in the D2 to record those Setup settings in the 2 memories just in case you ever want to Reload from either of those memories down the road.

--Bob


----------



## jviggi

Once you are happy that the ARC Upload has got everything into the D2 correctly, then do a Setup / Save User (and/or Installer) Settings in the D2 to record those Setup settings in the 2 memories just in case you ever want to Reload from either of those memories down the road.

--Bob

Thanks again,

I'll try your suggestion tomorrow


----------



## jayray

Bob,


Having set my output from the XA2 hd dvd player to 1080p/24, I noticed today some Jaggies in several movies. Changed back to 1080p/60 and they were gone.

PS3 seems fine with the 24. Wondered if you had noticed this on your hd dvd player. I am assuming you are an early adotper and would likely have one










John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14167204
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Having set my output from the XA2 hd dvd player to 1080p/24, I noticed today some Jaggies in several movies. Changed back to 1080p/60 and they were gone.
> 
> PS3 seems fine with the 24. Wondered if you had noticed this on your hd dvd player. I am assuming you are an early adotper and would likely have one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



You assume wrong!


I am a "conservative" early adopter. (grin!) I never purchased an HD-DVD player, and my recently purchased 40GB PS3 is my first Blu-Ray player.


On the other hand we have a number of XA2 owners posting here so someone else should be able to respond. Can you list a couple movies and time codes within those movies?


It is my understanding that HD-DVD handles 1080p/24 differently than Blu-Ray. The data on the HD-DVD disc, as I understand it, comes off the disc as 1080i/60 with flags to tell the HD-DVD player how to convert that to 1080p/60 or 1080p/24. So I suppose there could be errors on the disc flagging or errors in the processing in the player.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*EDIT: 7/2/08 -- THIS POST IS NOT CORRECT! See this new post for the correct info:
*
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post14207663 


================================
*Got more than one ARC mic? No worries!*


I got a quick response from Nick at Anthem. The ARC application can tell whether the ARC mic that you've got plugged in matches the licensing/calibration files that are currently placed in the ARC application folder. If the wrong mic is plugged in, ARC sees that the same as if no mic is plugged in -- i.e., it reports the error that it can't find mic "xxxxx" where that's the serial number of the mic it is expecting.


This happens when you try to do a Measurement. In particular, the ARC application will not let you mistakenly take a Measurement when the mic and the calibration files don't match.


Apparently this is NOT just a matter of reading the mic serial number over the USB cable, as ARC can not tell you what serial number mic you have plugged in. All it know is whether or not the mic you have plugged in matches the calibration files or not.


If you have more than one ARC mic for whatever reason, and thus more than one pair of licensing/calibration files, and have lost track of which ARC mic has which serial number, it is just a matter of trial and error to try each mic until ARC stops complaining.


(Of course if you know which mic has which serial number, you can just pick the mic with the number that's found in the file names for the 2 licensing/calibration files -- i.e., the ones which also bear the serial number of the D2 you are using. NOTE: You can't just use any ARC mic with any D2 simply by swapping calibration files. You have to use the specific mic that's been paired with your specific D2 in the 2 licensing/calibration files that came with your original ARC install CD.)


---------------------------------


Nick also tells me that Anthem is reconsidering whether to add serial number labels to the ARC mics themselves (i.e., in addition to what's on the box).

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14167302
> 
> 
> You assume wrong!
> 
> 
> I am a "conservative" early adopter. (grin!) I never purchased an HD-DVD player, and my recently purchased 40GB PS3 is my first Blu-Ray player.
> 
> 
> On the other hand we have a number of XA2 owners posting here so someone else should be able to respond. Can you list a couple movies and time codes within those movies?
> 
> 
> It is my understanding that HD-DVD handles 1080p/24 differently than Blu-Ray. The data on the HD-DVD disc, as I understand it, comes off the disc as 1080i/60 with flags to tell the HD-DVD player how to convert that to 1080p/60 or 1080p/24. So I suppose there could be errors on the disc flagging or errors in the processing in the player.
> 
> --Bob



The jaggies appeared in Transformers at the beginning of the movie where the helicopters are flying over the desert. The body of the helicopter had jaggies. The other scene was in the base camp in Quatar. There is a metal screen on the ground and it had the jaggy artifacts as well. Sorry I don't have the timecodes but the above description should be enough.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Want something to look forward to? I just got a tip that there's to be an Anthem announcement on Monday related to the products we are tracking in this thread.

--Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14167680
> 
> 
> Want something to look forward to? I just got a tip that there's to be an Anthem announcement on Monday related to the products we are tracking in this thread.
> 
> --Bob



you cant expect us to wait until monday, out with it


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't have any details. Just that there's an announcement coming.


I could guess, but that's not worth much.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14167739
> 
> 
> I don't have any details. Just that there's an announcement coming.
> 
> 
> I could guess, but that's not worth much.
> 
> --Bob



Perhaps not, but it would be a lot more fun than _not_ guessing!


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14163287
> 
> 
> Last night my D2 went nuts. My installer was modifying some programming on my RTI T4 when he turns on my system . . . and . . . no video.
> 
> 
> The D2 starts up on my Tivo S3 connected by HDMI. It seems to lock on to the audio, but can't lock on to video. The D2 display flashes between Tivo (Sat 1) Main and "powering on." Occasionally the display goes purple. I switched to component in for the Tivo and it didn't help.
> 
> 
> In some cases the D2 has displayed a video signal fine only to have it die after a while. When the video fails, it fails on all inputs and on HDMI, S-video, composite and component inputs.
> 
> 
> I tried re-installing firmware 1.31 and 1.33 and back to 1.31 with not much success. This morning I was able to get a video signal eventually (in this case I started from a component in source and was able to switch to my HDMI Tivo). After about 2 minutes I powered down the system, so I do not know how long the video would have remained stable before it died again.
> 
> 
> I will give Nick a call today, but does anyone have any thoughts? It seems hard to believe this is a hardware problem, since I get video intermittently. Maybe in programming the T4 the D2 was fed something through the serial input that corrupted my firmware? I am thinking of trying flash eraser and re-flashing the D2 firmware, although I have so many changes to the D2 that a full erase without being able to fully back up the D2 settings will be painful.
> 
> 
> HELP!



The flash erasor doesn't erase everything especially your audio settings.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14163287
> 
> 
> Last night my D2 went nuts. My installer was modifying some programming on my RTI T4 when he turns on my system . . . and . . . no video.
> 
> 
> The D2 starts up on my Tivo S3 connected by HDMI. It seems to lock on to the audio, but can't lock on to video. The D2 display flashes between Tivo (Sat 1) Main and "powering on." Occasionally the display goes purple. I switched to component in for the Tivo and it didn't help.
> 
> 
> In some cases the D2 has displayed a video signal fine only to have it die after a while. When the video fails, it fails on all inputs and on HDMI, S-video, composite and component inputs.
> 
> 
> I tried re-installing firmware 1.31 and 1.33 and back to 1.31 with not much success. This morning I was able to get a video signal eventually (in this case I started from a component in source and was able to switch to my HDMI Tivo). After about 2 minutes I powered down the system, so I do not know how long the video would have remained stable before it died again.
> 
> 
> I will give Nick a call today, but does anyone have any thoughts? It seems hard to believe this is a hardware problem, since I get video intermittently. Maybe in programming the T4 the D2 was fed something through the serial input that corrupted my firmware? I am thinking of trying flash eraser and re-flashing the D2 firmware, although I have so many changes to the D2 that a full erase without being able to fully back up the D2 settings will be painful.
> 
> 
> HELP!



Sorry I didn't respond sooner. I missed your post somehow. I take it your RTI T4 controller is connected via Serial cable to your D2. Have you tried disconnecting that to make sure the RTI isn't sending garbage to your D2?


Do you have a good set of Saved User Settings? If so, then Reload Factory Defaults and try making just the minimal set of setting changes -- manually -- to see if the D2 powers up properly. I.e., set Setup / Video Output and see if you can get the D2 to power up and display its internally generated test patterns (Video Source Adjust / Patterns).


If that works, make the Setup / Source Setup entries for a source device and see if you can get source video through the D2 to your display.


Finally, try a Reload Saved User Settings and see if you are back in business.


It could be as simple as that the installer's efforts with the RTI sent a bogus command to the D2 which changed its current Setup settings.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/14167778
> 
> 
> Perhaps not, but it would be a lot more fun than _not_ guessing!



Want a guess? OK. A hardware upgrade that will allow Anthem to sell ARC to AVM-40 and AVM-50 customers. (HINT: Look at the password protected download page.)


I suppose we COULD see an announcement on upcoming HDMI V1.3 support, but I think that's far less likely.


Is there some sort of trade show next week that Anthem might be targeting? Or would an announcement on Monday be made outside of the hoopla of a trade show?

--Bob


----------



## "MIKEY"

Looking for options!


Pulled the trigger & now have an ARC system in hand, but do not have the right cables to upload the latest firmware, v1.33, before running the ARC.


What are the options to transfer the firmware from a PC that has a 15 pin female RS 232connectors, USB ports, HDMI... to the D2 with the 9 pin RS 232?


Radio Shack did not have a 15 pin male to 9 pin male adapter to go with the Anthem supplied 9 pin female cord.


Are there other ways to upload the firmare?

Any thoughts?

Thanks!


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/14168658
> 
> 
> Looking for options!
> 
> 
> Pulled the trigger & now have an ARC system in hand, but do not have the right cables to upload the latest firmware, v1.33, before running the ARC.
> 
> 
> What are the options to transfer the firmware from a PC that has a 15 pin female RS 232connectors, USB ports, HDMI... to the D2 with the 9 pin RS 232?
> 
> 
> Radio Shack did not have a 15 pin male to 9 pin male adapter to go with the Anthem supplied 9 pin female cord.
> 
> 
> Are there other ways to upload the firmare?
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks!



You need a KEYSPAN USA19HS USB Serial (RS-232) Adapter or similiar USB Serial adapter.

Read pages 46 to 49 in the latest D2 owners manual available on the Anthem web site.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/14169224
> 
> 
> You need a KEYSPAN USA19HS USB Serial (RS-232) Adapter or similiar USB Serial adapter.
> 
> Read pages 46 to 49 in the latest D2 owners manual available on the Anthem web site.




I used the Keyspan and it worked perfect with my Vista Laptop


----------



## wookie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14167204
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Having set my output from the XA2 hd dvd player to 1080p/24, I noticed today some Jaggies in several movies. Changed back to 1080p/60 and they were gone.
> 
> PS3 seems fine with the 24. Wondered if you had noticed this on your hd dvd player. I am assuming you are an early adotper and would likely have one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Check some of the threads eg " http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=992822 " and " http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...s#post13920730 " under the HD players forum on avs. It seems like some of the software updates 2.8 for the A2 and 2.0 for the a35 and some other models causes jaggies in some movies (eg Transformers) when you use the 1080p/24 setting. Some people were trying to revert back to previous software to eliminate the problem. There was some discussions of how to do it in that thread at least for the A3 and A35. I have an A35 with older software ver. 1.3 and won't upgrade to the 2.0 because of that.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14162421
> 
> 
> Deep Sigh!
> 
> 
> The 2 license and calibration files have file names which are a combo of your D2's serial # and the serial # of the microphone. Double check the file names against your microphone as well. If the mic serial #'s match then you are probably correct -- the wrong kit was sent to you.
> 
> 
> If the mic serial #'s are also wrong then that means the wrong CD was put in the box with the mic -- which is likely a mistake at Anthem unless your dealer opened up a pair of ARCs and swapped the discs.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> But you are probably correct that it is a dealer problem. The dealer probably didn't realize that ARC boxes had to be sent to the correct D2 owners, got more than one ARC box in, and screwed up who they got handed to.
> 
> 
> This is a cautionary tale for ARC upgrade purchasers. If you are picking up your ARC kit or talking to the dealer about sending it to you, have your D2 serial # handy and make sure you get the correct upgrade kit!
> 
> 
> ETA: If you *DO* manage to find the other unlucky D2 owner, remember that you can't just swap the CDs. You will also have to swap the microphones. Those files pair a specific microphone to a specific D2 -- i.e. they contain the calibration data for that one, specific microphone. The stand and cable don't have to be swapped of course.
> 
> --Bob



Good news here today, my dealer is doing the right thing and taking care of me. He apologized for their mistake, and I suggested he just overnight ship the correct microphone and CD to me, and I vice versa, and he agreed. I should have my ARC up and running tomorrow evening, just in time for Friday night at the movies at our house!


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/14161444
> 
> 
> mr fitz,
> 
> 
> after doing the same calibrations you did with your jvc, that i did on my sony kdl52xbr2 tv, i came up with the same results, my gamma was about 1.75. I havent messed around with the gamma curves on the d2 because well we just had a baby girl, and i dont know how the hell it works anyway. is there a good guide for adjusting the gamma in the d2 and measuring it? i know the basics which bob wrote before. anyway, you are not alone and I would like to know how we can work this out too. might be an eyeone problem or hcfr problem i am thinking. also can anyone tell me how to change the gamma inside a tv? i have the service manual for my tv and have changed the gray scale inside the service menu, which i am very comfortable with. anyway, anyone got any clues? Bob? hahaha



Well I finally finished my calibrations.


Adjusting rgb levels inside the D2 did nothing to my luminance curve nor my gamma curve.


So I adjusted the gamma curve in the D2 and then use the offsets for rgb in my jvc projector. Not perfect since I can't adjust rgb for the whole scale but I got it relatively flat from 40 to 100 IRE. My picture is substantially improved. I never realized how washed out my picture was until I had it calibrated properly. Ignorance is bliss.


The D2 curves use an x,y axis of 1024 x 1024. So every 100 is approx 10 IRE. If you take each point and lower it then you increase your gamma value and if you raise each point along the curve you lower your gamma value.


First I set my black and white levels from my D2 then read my greyscale using my eye-one. Then in 10 IRE intervals I adjusted my gamma then rechecked my black and white levels. Saved my changes in live video settings editor and then checked my results for what I changed. If everything was ok then I proceeded to 20 IRE. If it wasn't ok then I went back and adjusted again. I repeated these steps over and over until my gamma was flat at 2.22 across the board. I ended up with almost 50 saved files. It took many hours but it was worth it. Seems a pity since I am ordering a new screen and will have to do most of it all over again.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14169620
> 
> 
> Well I finally finished my calibrations.
> 
> 
> Adjusting rgb levels inside the D2 did nothing to my luminance curve nor my gamma curve.
> 
> 
> So I adjusted the gamma curve in the D2 and then use the offsets for rgb in my jvc projector. Not perfect since I can't adjust rgb for the whole scale but I got it relatively flat from 40 to 100 IRE. My picture is substantially improved. I never realized how washed out my picture was until I had it calibrated properly. Ignorance is bliss.
> 
> 
> The D2 curves use an x,y axis of 1024 x 1024. So every 100 is approx 10 IRE. If you take each point and lower it then you increase your gamma value and if you raise each point along the curve you lower your gamma value.
> 
> 
> First I set my black and white levels from my D2 then read my greyscale using my eye-one. Then in 10 IRE intervals I adjusted my gamma then rechecked my black and white levels. Saved my changes in live video settings editor and then checked my results for what I changed. If everything was ok then I proceeded to 20 IRE. If it wasn't ok then I went back and adjusted again. I repeated these steps over and over until my gamma was flat at 2.22 across the board. I ended up with almost 50 saved files. It took many hours but it was worth it. Seems a pity since I am ordering a new screen and will have to do most of it all over again.
> 
> 
> John



John, you are a lightning D2 pilot!


Theoretically you should be able to take the "flat" measurements (no gamma correction in the D2) and "fit a curve" to them which will then tell you how to set the D2's gamma correction to bring that curve to a gamma of 2.2. If you do this right you should hone in on the proper D2 gamma correction pretty quickly.


The problem with the theory here is the interaction between gamma correction and basic black/white levels, and the limits of what you can do with the controls.


---------------------------------------


Of course now that you know how to do this you can hire yourself out as a D2 calibrator! Make big bucks in your spare time!


---------------------------------------


A question: Did you end up using the gray scale gamma correction curve in the D2? Or did you find you had to separately adjust gamma for each or R, G, and B?

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14169674
> 
> 
> John, you are a lightning D2 pilot!
> 
> 
> Theoretically you should be able to take the "flat" measurements (no gamma correction in the D2) and "fit a curve" to them which will then tell you how to set the D2's gamma correction to bring that curve to a gamma of 2.2. If you do this right you should hone in on the proper D2 gamma correction pretty quickly.
> 
> 
> The problem with the theory here is the interaction between gamma correction and basic black/white levels, and the limits of what you can do with the controls.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Of course now that you know how to do this you can hire yourself out as a D2 calibrator! Make big bucks in your spare time!
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> A question: Did you end up using the gray scale gamma correction curve in the D2? Or did you find you had to separately adjust gamma for each or R, G, and B?
> 
> --Bob



I took some screenshots of my before and after gamma readings as well as the before curve in live video settings editor.


The problem with "fitting a curve "is that I do not know the correlation between trying to raise the gamma by 0.1 on one graph to how many units need to be adjusted in the live video settings editor curve.


I used the gray scale gamma then adjusted the rgb levels inside my projector.


----------



## mr_fitz

Here is my before and after gamma


----------



## mr_fitz

Here are my before and after for live video settings editor

 

settingseditorbefore.doc 75k . file

 

settingseditorafter.doc 77k . file


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14169821
> 
> 
> Here is my before and after gamma



Fantastic Gamma values. I'm sure the PQ is superb.


----------



## EL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14167910
> 
> 
> Want a guess? OK. A hardware upgrade that will allow Anthem to sell ARC to AVM-40 and AVM-50 customers. (HINT: Look at the password protected download page.)
> 
> 
> I suppose we COULD see an announcement on upcoming HDMI V1.3 support, but I think that's far less likely.
> 
> 
> Is there some sort of trade show next week that Anthem might be targeting? Or would an announcement on Monday be made outside of the hoopla of a trade show?
> 
> --Bob



Interesting ...

I could see Anthem using the new Freescale DSP5672x familly (dual core 56300) instead of the dual 56367 of the D2

on top of supporting the new codec (I know it would requires a HDMI 1.3 upgrade), the new line supports 8 channels


true 7.1 via HDMI would be possible (and more I guess)


but then that would make the avm50 quite similar to a D2 minus the upsampling.


----------



## DEHAAS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14167910
> 
> 
> Want a guess? OK. A hardware upgrade that will allow Anthem to sell ARC to AVM-40 and AVM-50 customers. (HINT: Look at the password protected download page.)
> 
> 
> I suppose we COULD see an announcement on upcoming HDMI V1.3 support, but I think that's far less likely.
> 
> 
> Is there some sort of trade show next week that Anthem might be targeting? Or would an announcement on Monday be made outside of the hoopla of a trade show?
> 
> --Bob



I would find a hardware ARC upgrade for the AVM-series very interesting. I wonder what the price will be - I guess I will just have to wait until monday to find out.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14167855
> 
> 
> Sorry I didn't respond sooner. I missed your post somehow. I take it your RTI T4 controller is connected via Serial cable to your D2. Have you tried disconnecting that to make sure the RTI isn't sending garbage to your D2?
> 
> 
> Do you have a good set of Saved User Settings? If so, then Reload Factory Defaults and try making just the minimal set of setting changes -- manually -- to see if the D2 powers up properly. I.e., set Setup / Video Output and see if you can get the D2 to power up and display its internally generated test patterns (Video Source Adjust / Patterns).
> 
> 
> If that works, make the Setup / Source Setup entries for a source device and see if you can get source video through the D2 to your display.
> 
> 
> Finally, try a Reload Saved User Settings and see if you are back in business.
> 
> 
> It could be as simple as that the installer's efforts with the RTI sent a bogus command to the D2 which changed its current Setup settings.
> 
> --Bob



I think I have a dead video board. I tried disconnecting my RTI - I tried disconnecting my Tivo. I Tried using component connections and no HDMI connections (using component ins, 480i DVD sources showed up at 576i on the D2 and a blue screen with horizontal lines on my display). All no help. I continued to have no or intermittent video.


I used flash eraser and then tried to reload the D2's firmware (1.31 and 1.33). I got to "uploading video processor uC FLASH Programmer Please Wait" and then the firmware upgrade failed. I got an error notice that said: "Video processor uC RAM programming failed.”


This is all a bit disappointing. I love the D2 but . . . I first purchased an AVM 50 last year which had a video board that was DOA (discovered after much of the hook-up was completed) and I upgraded to the D2 after I returned the AVM 50 (the dealer had no more AVM 50s in stock and I was paying installer time and had a big party coming up, so I was time constrained). I can deal with intermittent issues with firmware updates (can you say no video output with 1.29xx), but hardware failures in a system as complex as mine (I have literally every input taken up on the D2) where I have to spend hours of disconnect and reconnect time (not to mention having to ship out my D2 and then have no use of my main AV system for several weeks) are harder to take. If I have a failed video board, that makes 2 dead video boards in just over a year in two different Anthem products. I really hope this is not a sign of quality control problems at Anthem. I also am hoping Anthem can work something out with my dealer to swap my D2 for a new one or just overnight me a video board so at least I can get my system up and running this weekend.


Ughhhhh!!!!

















_________________


I had a long conversation with Nick today. We are going to try something over the weekend and then if all fails, I will ship the unit back to Anthem on Monday. Nick thinks the problem may be with the power supply although it might be the video board. At least Anthem tech support made the best of a bad situation.


----------



## Korey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14155419
> 
> 
> I have just one word for Anthem's ARC system and that is brilliant; a step change in sound quality for a very small investment. Mine came into the dealer yesterday and so I rushed off to get it and set it up yesterday evening. I had no problems in connectivity between my wife's laptop and my D1 (yes I think I might be the only D1 owner who subscribes to this thread); uploaded 1.33 first and then inserted the disc that came with ARC.



Another D1 owner who subscribes to this thread!


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14169999
> 
> 
> Fantastic Gamma values. I'm sure the PQ is superb.



It is surprisingly better now.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wookie* /forum/post/14169453
> 
> 
> Check some of the threads eg " http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=992822 " and " http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...s#post13920730 " under the HD players forum on avs. It seems like some of the software updates 2.8 for the A2 and 2.0 for the a35 and some other models causes jaggies in some movies (eg Transformers) when you use the 1080p/24 setting. Some people were trying to revert back to previous software to eliminate the problem. There was some discussions of how to do it in that thread at least for the A3 and A35. I have an A35 with older software ver. 1.3 and won't upgrade to the 2.0 because of that.



Many thanks for the links. will try to revert to 2.7 if I have it.

John


----------



## jviggi

_It is certainly unusual for ARC to settle on the same cross over for all speakers. Have you had your room audio treated -- bass absorbing material applied for example?


Since this is so unusual, do me a favor and double-check. Run ARC in Advanced mode and Open (File menu) the file with your saved ARC Measurements and Calculations. The ARC computer doesn't have to be attached to the D2 to do this. Now view the Targets window.


Check that the cross overs in the Targets window all match the 80 Hz values you are now seeing in the D2's Setup menu.


If so, then you are good to go! If not, then something got messed up in your Upload of ARC results. The cross overs shown in the Targets window should be what got Uploaded into the D2's Setup menu. If you spot a problem will have to try to figure out what happened.

--Bob_



Hi Bob,

I did exactly what you told me to do. I saved the first upload (80 THX) as installer config so that I wouldn't loose it. Then I then went to the user config and turned off advanced sound so I would be starting with a clean slate. I opened ARC advance mode and uploaded the corrections and watched it go thru the total process including verification. When it was complete a screen popped up and I went Ut Oh. It told me to go to the Source Setup menu and turn equalizer on for each source. I never did that and previously I did not even know it was there so I did not do it. I must have blew by that step the first time in all of the excitement.

The new crossovers are exactly like the targets: L/R 45, Ctr 50, Surr 90, Sub 90. I then followed your instructions and went to the speaker calibration page and all of my values had changed to the correct settings. The differance is a lot more dramatic. The improvement that I heard previously was definately there (after lots of listening verification) and it had to be because ARC set my crossovers to 80. I never set any crossovers (too timid I guess) in the past.

This is terrific and you solved another one just like I have seen you do so many times.

Thanks a lot!!!

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jviggi* /forum/post/14172418
> 
> 
> This is terrific and you solved another one just like I have seen you do so many times.
> 
> Thanks a lot!!!
> 
> John



Great! Now remember, now that you've finally got all the right stuff set up in the D2, be sure to do ANOTHER Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture all that in those memories so that you don't accidentally overwrite your settings in the future by Reloading from those memories.


Then relax and enjoy your new ARC!

--Bob


----------



## EAnderson

Well, I took someone's advice and bought the keyspan adapter. I loaded the newest driver and now my laptop can't find the D2. My old Radio Shack adapter worked like a champ everytime. I unfortunatley give it away. So, now I'll have to make a trip back to R.S. for something that does work. Its too bad I wasted my money on the Keyspan based on other peoples concerns over non-Keyspan adapters.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/14174244
> 
> 
> Well, I took someone's advice and bought the keyspan adapter. I loaded the newest driver and now my laptop can't find the D2. My old Radio Shack adapter worked like a champ everytime. I unfortunatley give it away. So, now I'll have to make a trip back to R.S. for something that does work. Its too bad I wasted my money on the Keyspan based on other peoples concerns over non-Keyspan adapters.



Did you get Keyspan USA-19HS? That's what I have, and others, have used without any problems. I have been using mine with Windows XP. I know others have used it with Vista and have not had any problems.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14174580
> 
> 
> Did you get Keyspan USA-19HS? That's what I have, and others, have used without any problems. I have been using mine with Windows XP. I know others have used it with Vista and have not had any problems.



And it is the adapter recommended by Anthem. Nick has strongly cautioned me about the RS adapter as having bricked a number of Anthem units.


----------



## "MIKEY"

Thanks to all who advised getting an adapter!


Used one from Radio Shack, Gigaware USB to serial cable & experienced no problems loading v1.33 firmware & setting up the ARC system.


It sounds a lot better using the ARC. Cool!


Made a mistake & ran the ARC with v1.21 not 1.22. Will rerun using the latest version.


By the way, what does RS adapters have "bricked" a number of Anthems mean?


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14174796
> 
> 
> And it is the adapter recommended by Anthem. Nick has strongly cautioned me about the RS adapter as having bricked a number of Anthem units.



I have heard this too but the RS adapter has worked liked a charm for me every time. I am using a very old IBM laptop (2002 or so). Maybe it just has problems with newer chipsets???


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/14174898
> 
> 
> By the way, what does RS adapters have "bricked" a number of Anthems mean?



Corrupted the unit's firmware so they are unusable.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/14174907
> 
> 
> I have heard this too but the RS adapter has worked liked a charm for me every time. I am using a very old IBM laptop (2002 or so). Maybe it just has problems with newer chipsets???



According to Nick it is that the RS adapters sometimes add garbage to the serial commands sent to the D2 resulting in corrupted firmware and a dead D2. I used the RS adapter until Nick groaned and told me to use the Keyspan. At this point I mostly use a PCMCIA serial card and avoid the adapter altogether.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/14174244
> 
> 
> Well, I took someone's advice and bought the keyspan adapter. I loaded the newest driver and now my laptop can't find the D2. My old Radio Shack adapter worked like a champ everytime. I unfortunatley give it away. So, now I'll have to make a trip back to R.S. for something that does work. Its too bad I wasted my money on the Keyspan based on other peoples concerns over non-Keyspan adapters.



It could be as simple as that the driver for the older adapter is getting in the way.


Go into Windows Device Manager and look at the list of hardware items it shows. Look for the icons on any line indicating a problem (a conflict in the resources assigned to the two drivers would be the most common). Specifically check the USB lines and the Serial (COM) port lines in that list.


Make sure that the Keyspan driver has assigned the emulated serial port to a COM port number in the range COM1 to COM6. If not, change it.


You may need to tell Device Manager to delete the older driver for the older adapter, and also the current driver for the Keyspan, and then re-install the Keyspan driver you already have. You do this by right clicking on the line for the driver and looking in Properties.


Finally, after making any driver changes, be sure to reboot your computer to make sure they actually take effect.


NOTE: There are different Keyspan drivers on their web site for different versions of Windows. Make sure you got the one that matches your version of Windows.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14174943
> 
> 
> Make sure that the Keyspan driver has assigned the emulated serial port to a COM port number in the range COM1 to COM6. If not, change it.
> 
> --Bob



Nick's suggestion as well . . .


"Maybe it's assigning a virtual port beyond COM6? i.e. go port manager, assign COM1-COM6 (lower the better)."


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wookie* /forum/post/14169453
> 
> 
> Check some of the threads eg " http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=992822 " and " http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...s#post13920730 " under the HD players forum on avs. It seems like some of the software updates 2.8 for the A2 and 2.0 for the a35 and some other models causes jaggies in some movies (eg Transformers) when you use the 1080p/24 setting. Some people were trying to revert back to previous software to eliminate the problem. There was some discussions of how to do it in that thread at least for the A3 and A35. I have an A35 with older software ver. 1.3 and won't upgrade to the 2.0 because of that.



Just downloaded FW 3.0 for the XA2. Jaggies still show but seems this happens with MPEG4 and not VC1 encodes. Will try more to get a better sample size but what a coincidence that today a new fw. comes out.


John


----------



## EAnderson

I called and spoke to Pierro at Anthem he echoed Bob's thoughts on the com port assignment, I checked it was at com 9. I changed it to com 1, still nothing. I then drove to Radio Shack bought another one of theirs and right off the bat, my lap top was able to find the D2. However, when trying to load the latest software I received a error messege saying "Failed to switch to 115200kbs" I then clicked on "OK" then got another error messege " Failed to exit De-bug" Whats going on? I also noticed that it seems to take an awlfully long time to turn on as well as exit the setup menu; takes many, many back button pushes to finally get it to exit out. What gives?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/14175460
> 
> 
> I called and spoke to Pierro at Anthem he echoed Bob's thoughts on the com port assignment, I checked it was at com 9. I changed it to com 1, still nothing. I then drove to Radio Shack bought another one of theirs and right off the bat, my lap top was able to find the D2. However, when trying to load the latest software I received a error messege saying "Failed to switch to 115200kbs" I then clicked on "OK" then got another error messege " Failed to exit De-bug" Whats going on? I also noticed that it seems to take an awlfully long time to turn on as well as exit the setup menu; takes many, many back button pushes to finally get it to exit out. What gives?



Try disconnecting the serial cable. It may be that the driver in your computer is so confused right now that it is sending garbage to the D2 which the D2 is trying to interpret as commands.


See if that fixes your responsiveness issue in the D2's Setup menu.


Then go to Setup / Triggers IR & RS-232 and verify that the settings for the RS-232 port still match the factory defaults (as shown in the picture in your D2 manual -- see Section 3.11).


Setting up hardware drivers in Windows can be finicky. Again, your best bet right now may be to go into Device Manager and have it delete the drivers for the Keyspan AND for the Radio Shack adapter and start over with a new driver install.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14175516
> 
> 
> Setting up hardware drivers in Windows can be finicky.
> 
> --Bob



Nick - please give us Mac compatibility on the D3 - that would make Anthem even greater than it is today!!!


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jviggi* /forum/post/14172418
> 
> 
> _ I saved the first upload (80 THX) as installer config so that I wouldn't loose it. Then I then went to the user config and turned off advanced sound so I would be starting with a clean slate. I opened ARC advance mode and uploaded the corrections and watched it go thru the total process including verification. When it was complete a screen popped up and I went Ut Oh. It told me to go to the Source Setup menu and turn equalizer on for each source. I never did that and previously I did not even know it was there so I did not do it. I must have blew by that step the first time in all of the excitement.
> 
> The new crossovers are exactly like the targets: L/R 45, Ctr 50, Surr 90, Sub 90. I then followed your instructions and went to the speaker calibration page and all of my values had changed to the correct settings. The differance is a lot more dramatic. The improvement that I heard previously was definately there (after lots of listening verification) and it had to be because ARC set my crossovers to 80. I never set any crossovers (too timid I guess) in the past.
> 
> 
> John
> _


_




Quote:
Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14165765 


Did you by chance forget to turn ARC ON for your source in the D2 setup menu/source setup menu ?

Click to expand...



That's great news, I have to remind myself all the time to always go back one step (to the basics) when an unexpected problem occurs.


Enjoy your D2 now!_


----------



## EAnderson

Ok, I've tried your suggestions and I'm able to find the D2 under the live video settings but cannot load the software 1.33. Now, the D2 seems snail slow powering on (about four minutes) and changing inputs(two minutes) the screen sometimes blanks out altogether. I also now cannot turn off the D2 from the front panel or remote, only the back panel switch. I should have kept using the Radio Shack adapter instead of messing up my D2 with the Keyspan USA-19hs. You know if it aint broke dont fix it. Any good suggestions as what to do now?


Thanks, Eric


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Download a fresh copy of the D2 V1.33 installer from the Anthem site. It is possible that the one you have now got corrupted somehow.


If you can get to the Setup menu in the D2, do a Reload Factory Defaults.


Before trying a new firmware install, remove wall power from everything else in your system except for the D2 itself and your computer.


If this doesn't do the trick for you, there are really only two other things I know about that you can try -- doing the firmware install using a different computer and getting the Flash Eraser Windows program from Anthem tech support to see if it can clear the programmable parts of the D2 so that the D2 can accept the firmware from an empty state.


[There is also a manual procedure which involves opening the chassis that can clear the programmable parts of the D2 in the rare cases where the Flash Eraser doesn't work.]


I don't know why your D2 has gotten wedged like this. I take it you never got as far as actually running a firmware install, correct? I.e., the installer never found the D2 to begin with? The only thing I can think of is that your computer is sending random garbage to the D2 over the serial cable, which is why I suggested you see if the D2 started operating normally once you disconnected the serial cable.

--Bob


----------



## EAnderson

Well, the Keyspan did finally find the D2, however, I got two error notes one saying something about failed to switch to 115200kbs. I had the D2 set 19200kbs.and the other said failed to Debug I'm using the com port 1. This was my first time using the Keyspan adapter, I've done all other upgrades up to v1.31c using the Radio Shack without any of these issues. Why me?


----------



## MStanic

Quite simply an amazing product and worth every penny. Just finished running it once and the results are absolutely stunning. No need to go into any of the cliches....quite simply.....the best sound I have heard in my home and it's like night and day versus what my D2 sounded previous to this.


Thanks to everybody and thank you Bob Pariseau for outlining the process for me. Your help and input, throughout this thread, is priceless. Thanks ALL.


----------



## EAnderson

Well, I guess I have a problem. My Keyspan adapter and laptop can find the D2 under the Live Video settings and when trying to install the update. However, I continue to get error messages saying "Failed to switch to 115200kbs" then get "Failed to Exit Debug Mode". So, what I am left with is a D2 that takes about 30 sec. to switch to a different input while the display shuts off. The D2 also has a hard time powering on and off, takes about 1 and a half minutes. I've tried to change the baud rate to 115200kbs on the D2 and the Keyspan's serial assistant, under the properties baud test speed with the same results.

I not sure what to do now. Do I use Anthem's flash eraser program? If that dosent work, what then? Try the internal flash erase reset that Bob mentioned. Send it back to Anthem? All of this because I used the "recommended" serial adapter rather than my trustworthy Radio Shack adapter.


If anybody and I mean anybody can offer any helpful advice, I'm all ears or eyes.

Thanks, Eric


P.S. I did redownload the update from Anthem's site as well as unplug everything but the D2 in this room , no luck.


----------



## EAnderson

Does the flash eraser effect only the video portion or does it wipe out any thing that can be downloaded then uploaded to the D2, any loaded software and personal adjustments? Has anyone been to this point where they had to use the flash eraser program and what was the outcome for them?


Thanks, Eric


----------



## tranle

I am not Bob but you should try the following:

1) disconnect physically all HDMI cable (some of my equipment look off but still respond to HDMI while in stand by mode).

2) reload the factory settings. You can do this just using the buttons on the front panel and the led display. This make sure that the rs232 settings have the default settings.

3) power off the D2 using the switch on the back, wait 15seconds and power back on. This make sure that the D2 has been reset.

4) make sure keyspan COM port are between 1 and 6.

5) use good rs232 cable and the shortest possible as the communication with the D2 is using with flow control=none.


You can also use the LiveVideoSettingsEditor to check if your connection to D2 is good enough for your PC/Notebook to talk to the D2.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/14176776
> 
> 
> Does the flash eraser effect only the video portion or does it wipe out any thing that can be downloaded then uploaded to the D2, any loaded software and personal adjustments? Has anyone been to this point where they had to use the flash eraser program and what was the outcome for them?
> 
> 
> Thanks, Eric



I had to use the flash eraser once and it did erase everything. But it seems like the flash eprom is partitioned an it will erase in chunk. I had to run it multiple time until there was no more error trying to erase stuff.


----------



## EAnderson

Thanks,Tranle

I've tried everything you've mentioned. All other components power was disconected from the wall as well as any connections to the D2. I don't have another computer to try the upload, so, it looks like flash erase is one my resorts. So, you say I may have to run flasherase several times to clean it out? Have you had any problems since then?

Thanks, Eric A


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm sorry, I don't have any other suggestions for you. I think the odds are good Anthem tech support will get you going again without having to send the unit back to them, but at this point I think you are going to have to work the problem with them directly. I understand this is not good news since you won't be able to reach them until Monday, but that's where it is.


If you can get your hands on a different computer over the weekend, by all means try that. I don't know how far you got in your failed attempt to install V1.33, but the odds are all the strangeness you are seeing in the D2 at this point is due to that failed install. There is probably a better procedure to reset the adapter drivers on your computer but I'm not enough of a Windows expert to be able to help you with that, so a second computer is your best shot at this point. If you can get a good serial connection, you SHOULD be able to install V1.33 on top of the failed install to get your D2 back working again.


I don't know if you got a bad Keyspan device, or if the drivers for it are incompatible with your computer, but I would guess the root cause of your problems is the computer and driver. Which means a different computer may very well work.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/14176959
> 
> 
> ...So, you say I may have to run flasherase several times to clean it out? Have you had any problems since then?
> 
> Thanks, Eric A



I was using at the beginning a cheap usb2serial that got at Fry's that messed the flash upload and even using an old desktop with a real serial it would fail somewhere.

So I had to use the flash eraser. But since I did not have any problem.


One of thing I forgot to mention:

- if you are using a laptop make sure it is plugged in, sometime on battery the cpu does strange things.

- I also make sure I disable any power save profile


----------



## benleeys

With all these problems with USB/Serial adapters experienced by D2 users, I do not understand why Anthem cannot simply supply a USB instead of a Serial socket. All computer devices these days use USB connections, so why aren't audio equipment manufacturers following this trend? Is there a technical problem here?

-Ben


----------



## mlbrand

I ran my ARC-1 yesterday evening, and everything worked great and it sounds really good! I mic'd five seating locations and left max. frequency at 5,000. Here are my crossovers ARC set;


L/R Fronts - 115

Center - 45

L/R Surrounds - 40

7.1 L/R Rears - 110

Subwoofer - 115


As others have seen, it appears that ARC sets the Center and Surround channel crossovers intentionally lower. Whatever the reason for that, it sounds really good. I am glad I have very capable L/R Surrounds and Center speaker to take advantage of this, though I'm sure ARC would have adjusted to whatever my speakers will do.


While I haven't listened to any sources that do much surround use yet, the front mains, center, and subs sound MUCH better. The bass is tighter and more defined, the front soundstage is even more seamless, and I am picking up more mid frequency detail than I have heard before. I can't wait to watch an Action flick with a surround heavy mix to see how it sounds, as others have said this area improves as well.


Good job Anthem, more value added to an already great product! A BIG thanks to Bob for posting great pointers on the ARC process!


----------



## dschamis

ARC-1 just set my L/R fronts to 40Hz xover - does that surprise anyone?


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/14176635
> 
> 
> Well, I guess I have a problem. My Keyspan adapter and laptop can find the D2 under the Live Video settings and when trying to install the update. However, I continue to get error messages saying "Failed to switch to 115200kbs" then get "Failed to Exit Debug Mode". So, what I am left with is a D2 that takes about 30 sec. to switch to a different input while the display shuts off. The D2 also has a hard time powering on and off, takes about 1 and a half minutes. I've tried to change the baud rate to 115200kbs on the D2 and the Keyspan's serial assistant, under the properties baud test speed with the same results.
> 
> I not sure what to do now. Do I use Anthem's flash eraser program? If that dosent work, what then? Try the internal flash erase reset that Bob mentioned. Send it back to Anthem? All of this because I used the "recommended" serial adapter rather than my trustworthy Radio Shack adapter.
> 
> 
> If anybody and I mean anybody can offer any helpful advice, I'm all ears or eyes.
> 
> Thanks, Eric
> 
> 
> P.S. I did redownload the update from Anthem's site as well as unplug everything but the D2 in this room , no luck.



If it is not too late (I mean before you do the erase procedure), maybe you should try to communicate to the D2 at a slower speed. Try to set Triggers/IR/RS-232 menu 3.11 (default values):


Tx status OFF

Flow Control NONE

Baud Rate 19200


----------



## dschamis

For the first time I lost my OSD. Everything else seems to be working fine. I recently upgraded to 1.33, but I'm pretty sure that it had been working. Last night I did another ARC-1 set of measurements w/ 1.2.2. Could that cause me to lose the OSD?


Very weird.


Are there any solutions other than reloading 1.33?


----------



## EAnderson

Well, at this point I'm not sure what I should do. Do I try the flash Erase? Or just wait till Monday when Anthem tech support is open? It's all kinda disappointing as I just bought a new 1080p projector, so I was looking forward to watching it through the D2 this weekend. I just wanted to install the v1.33 and run ARC 1.2.2 since the last time I ran ARC I did'nt do it with my screen down. So, I figured that would make a big difference as the sound may reflect off of it.


P.S.

Bob, I did try to reinstall v1.31 and I had the same results so its got to have something to do with my Keyspan,driver or my computer, not with v1.33

Eric


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/14178110
> 
> 
> ARC-1 just set my L/R fronts to 40Hz xover - does that surprise anyone?



Not at all. Mine are as follows:

L/R MAIN 45

C 75

L/R SURROUNDS 50

REARS 80

SUB 120

It all depends on speaker size,room,reflections

Enjoy!

Dick


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/14178181
> 
> 
> Well, at this point I'm not sure what I should do. Do I try the flash Erase? Or just wait till Monday when Anthem tech support is open? It's all kinda disappointing as I just bought a new 1080p projector, so I was looking forward to watching it through the D2 this weekend. I just wanted to install the v1.33 and run ARC 1.2.2 since the last time I ran ARC I did'nt do it with my screen down. So, I figured that would make a big difference as the sound may reflect off of it.
> 
> 
> P.S.
> 
> Bob, I did try to reinstall v1.31 and I had the same results so its got to have something to do with my Keyspan,driver or my computer, not with v1.33
> 
> Eric



For what it is worth, after 1.29j messed up my D2 I used to get the "failed to exit debug mode" error. After 20-30 tries and powering up/unplugging the D2 many times, I got a good firmware install. If you have a computer with a real serial port, try using it.


----------



## Kal Rubinson

I do not think this is a problem with the D2 but, since it cannot decode DSD, the problem only became an issue when using the D2.


The Pioneer DV-58AV has been consistent in outputting DSD over HDMI but it is very inconsistent about outputting DSD as PCM for HDMI output. With about half the SACDs that I have tried, it will output 5.1 as PCM but, with the others, the D2 is only getting stereo even though the DV-58 is playing the 5.1 tracks. The problem is not associated simply with the label. Some labels seem to be OK, some are always played in stereo and some are 50:50. All the tested SACDs will play in 5.1 PCM (converted from DSD) on a different player connected to the same processor.


Has anyone else observed a similar problem? Does anyone have an idea what is going on?


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/14178181
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Bob, I did try to reinstall v1.31 and I had the same results so its got to have something to do with my Keyspan,driver or my computer, not with v1.33
> 
> Eric



What type of computer and OS are you using ?

If you are using Vista, it could be just permission problem. You need to disable UAC (User Access Control). The setting is under "User Accounts" in the control panel.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14177746
> 
> 
> With all these problems with USB/Serial adapters experienced by D2 users, I do not understand why Anthem cannot simply supply a USB instead of a Serial socket. All computer devices these days use USB connections, so why aren't audio equipment manufacturers following this trend? Is there a technical problem here?
> 
> -Ben



The Serial port on the Anthems was primarily intended for connection to the programmable system controllers used by custom installers.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson

Let me make a modest suggestion for all those experiencing problems with USB-serial adapters. My experience suggests that you should not boot up with the adapter installed in the PC but, rather, insert it after boot up. This has been the only way that my PCs consistently associate the drivers with the device. Just an idea.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/14178110
> 
> 
> ARC-1 just set my L/R fronts to 40Hz xover - does that surprise anyone?



No problem -- presuming your L/R fronts really are full-range speakers.


Don't assume that the answers ARC comes up with for someone else's room and speakers need match the answers it comes up with for your setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/14178155
> 
> 
> For the first time I lost my OSD. Everything else seems to be working fine. I recently upgraded to 1.33, but I'm pretty sure that it had been working. Last night I did another ARC-1 set of measurements w/ 1.2.2. Could that cause me to lose the OSD?
> 
> 
> Very weird.
> 
> 
> Are there any solutions other than reloading 1.33?



Give Anthem tech support a call on Monday.


The timing with relation to the ARC upload is likely just coincidence. Most likely it is a result of the V1.33 install. They will likely ask you to re-install V1.33, but this problem really is supposed to have been fixed by now.


Can you get video from any other S-video sources to display through the Anthem scaler? The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source.


Also, check the Setup / Displays & Timeout menu to see if any unexpected changes have been made in there. Compare to the picture in the manual for its factory defaults (Section 3.12).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/14178181
> 
> 
> Well, at this point I'm not sure what I should do. Do I try the flash Erase? Or just wait till Monday when Anthem tech support is open? It's all kinda disappointing as I just bought a new 1080p projector, so I was looking forward to watching it through the D2 this weekend. I just wanted to install the v1.33 and run ARC 1.2.2 since the last time I ran ARC I did'nt do it with my screen down. So, I figured that would make a big difference as the sound may reflect off of it.
> 
> 
> P.S.
> 
> Bob, I did try to reinstall v1.31 and I had the same results so its got to have something to do with my Keyspan,driver or my computer, not with v1.33
> 
> Eric



I would advise you DO NOT run the Flash Eraser until instructed to do so by Anthem tech support. If you can't get hold of a different computer to re-try the firmware install over the weekend, I advise you just wait until you can reach Anthem on Monday.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14178665
> 
> 
> I do not think this is a problem with the D2 but, since it cannot decode DSD, the problem only became an issue when using the D2.
> 
> 
> The Pioneer DV-58AV has been consistent in outputting DSD over HDMI but it is very inconsistent about outputting DSD as PCM for HDMI output. With about half the SACDs that I have tried, it will output 5.1 as PCM but, with the others, the D2 is only getting stereo even though the DV-58 is playing the 5.1 tracks. The problem is not associated simply with the label. Some labels seem to be OK, some are always played in stereo and some are 50:50. All the tested SACDs will play in 5.1 PCM (converted from DSD) on a different player connected to the same processor.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else observed a similar problem? Does anyone have an idea what is going on?



My recollection is that there was a similar problem reported with the Oppo players -- they would send stereo or 5.1 but would not send the in-between track configurations present on a limited number of discs (e.g., surrounds but no center speaker). That was tracked down to an error in the HDMI handshake on the Oppo side.


If you don't get any reports from other DV-58 owners here, you might try the player thread in the player forum to see if owners are having this problem when using it with other HDMI receivers or pre-pros. Also, Anthem tech support may have heard other reports on this player.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/14178377
> 
> 
> Not at all. Mine are as follows:
> 
> L/R MAIN 45
> 
> C 75
> 
> L/R SURROUNDS 50
> 
> REARS 80
> 
> SUB 120
> 
> It all depends on speaker size,room,reflections
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> Dick



Definitely not weird. Mine are as follows:

Mains = 40 (Were 30 with 1.1)

Center = 115

Surrounds = 80

Rears = 95

Sub = 120


Anyway, just sit back relax and enjoy the sounds of your D2 and ARC.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14178931
> 
> 
> My recollection is that there was a similar problem reported with the Oppo players -- they would send stereo or 5.1 but would not send the in-between track configurations present on a limited number of discs (e.g., surrounds but no center speaker). That was tracked down to an error in the HDMI handshake on the Oppo side.



Yes, this was a problem with some X.0 configurations but it has been resolved with the latest Oppo firmware. OTOH, the un-updated Oppo is the "other" player that I used for comparison and it had no problems with these same discs.



> Quote:
> If you don't get any reports from other DV-58 owners here, you might try the player thread in the player forum to see if owners are having this problem when using it with other HDMI receivers or pre-pros. Also, Anthem tech support may have heard other reports on this player.



I've posted elsewhere and queried Pioneer but I will send this to Nick, too.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is a new version of D2 V1.32c on the Anthem password protected download site. This version is labeled "D2 V1.32c (June 26)", and is the version of the D2 software that is testing their new HDMI driver. It is "newer" than the "official" V1.33 now on the public download page and a revamp of the previously withdrawn test software version labeled simply V1.32c.


WARNING: NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART! This is VERY MUCH "ALPHA" software! If you try it, expect significant problems. The previous version was withdrawn after only a couple days field trial.


----------------------------------------


There is also an ARC V1.2.4 on that password protected download page. This one states:



> Quote:
> Changes:
> 
> 
> v1.2.4:
> 
> 
> 1. Added ARC to AVM 40 and AVM 50 (processor requires dual DSP card).
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed problem occurring if subwoofer level would be out of range, preventing upload.



I believe this is what we are going to hear about from Anthem on Monday. This would also help explain the mysterious "more extensive" changes supposedly hidden in the V1.33 software release for the AVM-50 that had not been previously detailed. I've got no info at all on the "dual DSP card" -- for example, I've got no idea whether it is something that might be offered as an upgrade to current AVM-40 or AVM-50 customers. Presumably we will learn more on Monday.

--Bob


----------



## "MIKEY"

Ran ARC v1.2.2 using a RS adapter. No problems at all. The sound quality is vastly improved with ARC room EQ on. Very clear & realistic. Simply amazing!


50 hz L/R Fronts & Center

115 hz L/R Surrounds

120 hz Subwoofer

3.876401 Room Gain (Not sure what this means?)

5000 Max EQ freq (Don't understand this either?)


Besides the technical information, one thing is for sure, It sounds great!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/14179393
> 
> 
> Ran ARC v1.2.2 using a RS adapter. No problems at all. The sound quality is vastly improved with ARC room EQ on. Very clear & realistic. Simply amazing!
> 
> 
> 50 hz L/R Fronts & Center
> 
> 115 hz L/R Surrounds
> 
> 120 hz Subwoofer
> 
> 3.876401 Room Gain (Not sure what this means?)
> 
> 5000 Max EQ freq (Don't understand this either?)
> 
> 
> Besides the technical information, one thing is for sure, It sounds great!!



The Room Gain is the "natural sounding" room response -- specific to your room and speaker setup -- that ARC detects AND PRESERVES even though it is working hard to remove other, unwanted aspects of room response. Visually you will see it as the slight hump in the target curves (ARC Advanced mode) near the cross over frequency. Don't fiddle with this setting. Altering this setting will make the audio sound less natural in your listening room.


The MAX EQ frequency simply sets the frequency limit above which ARC doesn't try to alter the sound. Don't fiddle with this one either. Both of these settings are in there for test purposes and for reviewers who want to hear how bad things would sound if ARC was forced to use the wrong settings.


Raising the MAX EQ frequency will make the Calculated curves look better at higher frequencies but this is misleading. Audio up that high is too directional and what the ARC mic picks up at the various measurement positions is altered by this directionality -- i.e., there's no good data up there for ARC to work with. The fact that ARC can work its magic all the way up to 5KHz is amazing as it is. Don't try to push it beyond that.

--Bob


----------



## EAnderson

Alright, I've got a friend thats loaded the v1.33 upgrade on his notebook and will come over later this evening. So, we'll try that on his, wish us luck. Ok, Bob point taken on the Flash Eraser program, if I don't have any luck I'll wait till Monday and call Anthem tech. support. I'll let you all know what kind of luck or lack of I have later on.



Thanks, Eric


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/14179464
> 
> 
> Alright, I've got a friend thats loaded the v1.33 upgrade on his notebook and will come over later this evening. So, we'll try that on his, wish us luck. Ok, Bob point taken on the Flash Eraser program, if I don't have any luck I'll wait till Monday and call Anthem tech. support. I'll let you all know what kind of luck or lack of I have later on.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Eric



Good luck, Eric! On the Flash Eraser, it's not so much that I think you might damage your D2 as that Anthem might want you to run another program which queries the system to try to help figure out what's going wrong. Once you Flash Erase, that info would be lost. Or Anthem may have a simpler answer for you regarding the best way to re-do the install.


But if you can get the install to work cleanly from another computer that really is the best answer for the moment.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Question: Did a D2 firmware install mess up your ARC audio?*


It is my understanding that installing D2 firmware should not screw up your current ARC setup -- presuming the new firmware has no ARC specific changes. That is, consider the following:


1) Upload ARC Results


2) Save User Settings


3) Time passes, ARC sounds good, and now, for whatever reason, you decide to do a new firmware install -- either a re-install of the same firmware version, or of a different version that has no ARC specific changes.


4) Remove power from HDMI sources and display. Reload Factory Defaults.


5) Do the new firmware install


6) Reload Saved User Settings


It is my understanding that your ARC audio after this should sound the same as at the start.


However, I'm not sure that's true. I believe I hear some reduction in ARC sound quality after this which can be fixed by the simple expedient of adding a step (7):


7) Re-Upload ARC Results


The difference is subtle and I'm not at all sure it isn't just my imagination. If there IS a difference then I believe it would represent a bug in the firmware installer -- i.e., the intended behavior is that you should not have to do step (7).


So is anyone else hearing ARC issues after a firmware install that are fixed by just re-Uploading your latest ARC results?

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/14179393
> 
> 
> Ran ARC v1.2.2 using a RS adapter. No problems at all. The sound quality is vastly improved with ARC room EQ on. Very clear & realistic. Simply amazing!
> 
> 
> 50 hz L/R Fronts & Center
> 
> 115 hz L/R Surrounds
> 
> 120 hz Subwoofer
> 
> 3.876401 Room Gain (Not sure what this means?)
> 
> 5000 Max EQ freq (Don't understand this either?)
> 
> 
> Besides the technical information, one thing is for sure, It sounds great!!



Did you set your room gain to 3.876401 or was it set by the ARC-1? I ask because mine is always 0.000000.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14179855
> 
> 
> Did you set your room gain to 3.876401 or was it set by the ARC-1? I ask because mine is always 0.000000.



Try this:


Make a copy of your current ARC measurements file (so you don't risk screwing it up).


Run ARC in Advanced mode. Open the copy file (File menu). Go to the Targets window. Is your Room Gain now showing as 0?


In the Targets window, do an Auto Detect.


Is you Room Gain still 0?


The "Room Gain" is detected by the ARC application as a preliminary processing step after you take the Measurements and before you do the Calculation. It shows up in the Targets window after you complete the Measurements. An Auto Detect causes the ARC application to re-evaluate the currently opened Measurements file and reset the Targets (to the values ARC thinks are best) according to what it sees in there. I.e., you can use Auto Detect to undo any manual Targets changes you might have made.


A Room Gain of 0 strikes me as very unusual. I don't think we've seen any other reports of it here. You may want to email your ARC measurements file to Anthem tech support and ask them to take a look at it.

--Bob


----------



## "MIKEY"

NINJA

As Bob points out, ARC sets the room gain. I'm not savy enough to set this manually.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14178899
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call on Monday.
> 
> 
> The timing with relation to the ARC upload is likely just coincidence. Most likely it is a result of the V1.33 install. They will likely ask you to re-install V1.33, but this problem really is supposed to have been fixed by now.
> 
> 
> Can you get video from any other S-video sources to display through the Anthem scaler? The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source.
> 
> 
> Also, check the Setup / Displays & Timeout menu to see if any unexpected changes have been made in there. Compare to the picture in the manual for its factory defaults (Section 3.12).
> 
> --Bob



I just reinstalled 1.33 and it now works fine - never a dull moment with the D2!


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14179071
> 
> 
> Yes, this was a problem with some X.0 configurations but it has been resolved with the latest Oppo firmware. OTOH, the un-updated Oppo is the "other" player that I used for comparison and it had no problems with these same discs.
> 
> 
> I've posted elsewhere and queried Pioneer but I will send this to Nick, too.



I am still having the problem (X.0) with SACDs with the D2/Oppo 980H and that is with the new beta Oppo firmware. I have yet to call Anthem to talk to tech support but if Oppo is confident that their new sofware is sending 5.1 (with muted channels that aren't used) I would think that the D2 should be able to deal with it.


Kal - did you say you were successful with an D2/Oppo (un-updated) HDMI/PCM setup and got the X.0 SACDs to work properly? Are you using the 980? Thanks.


Bart


Bart


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14179375
> 
> 
> I believe this is what we are going to hear about from Anthem on Monday. This would also help explain the mysterious "more extensive" changes supposedly hidden in the V1.33 software release for the AVM-50 that had not been previously detailed. I've got no info at all on the "dual DSP card" -- for example, I've got no idea whether it is something that might be offered as an upgrade to current AVM-40 or AVM-50 customers. Presumably we will learn more on Monday.
> 
> --Bob



I understand that AVM50 owners may be able to Add ARC which would involve adding a dual DSP card (not a full D2 upgrade). Expect cost to be about 2x D2 ARC upgrade.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14179885
> 
> 
> Try this:
> 
> 
> Make a copy of your current ARC measurements file (so you don't risk screwing it up).
> 
> 
> Run ARC in Advanced mode. Open the copy file (File menu). Go to the Targets window. Is your Room Gain now showing as 0?
> 
> 
> In the Targets window, do an Auto Detect.
> 
> 
> Is you Room Gain still 0?
> 
> 
> The "Room Gain" is detected by the ARC application as a preliminary processing step after you take the Measurements and before you do the Calculation. It shows up in the Targets window after you complete the Measurements. An Auto Detect causes the ARC application to re-evaluate the currently opened Measurements file and reset the Targets (to the values ARC thinks are best) according to what it sees in there. I.e., you can use Auto Detect to undo any manual Targets changes you might have made.
> 
> 
> A Room Gain of 0 strikes me as very unusual. I don't think we've seen any other reports of it here. You may want to email your ARC measurements file to Anthem tech support and ask them to take a look at it.
> 
> --Bob



I did what you said and my room gain is still 0.000000. I will send the file to Anthem to see what they think.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/14180254
> 
> 
> I am still having the problem (X.0) with SACDs with the D2/Oppo 980H and that is with the new beta Oppo firmware. I have yet to call Anthem to talk to tech support but if Oppo is confident that their new sofware is sending 5.1 (with muted channels that aren't used) I would think that the D2 should be able to deal with it.
> 
> 
> Kal - did you say you were successful with an D2/Oppo (un-updated) HDMI/PCM setup and got the X.0 SACDs to work properly? Are you using the 980? Thanks.
> 
> 
> Bart
> 
> 
> Bart



I have not tried the updated 980 with the D2 as I am using it with a 3xSPDIF mod for the Meridian. I only compared the DV58 with the 983 which, apparently, does not have any problems with x.0 SACDs. The DV58 does.


----------



## EAnderson

Well, no luck. We got the same error messages; "Failed to switch to 115200kbs" followed by "Failed to Exit Debug mode". I don't know what this means or why I would be getting these messages. This all did'nt start until I switched to the Keyspan adapter, I used the Radio Shack adapter from v1.0 through to v1.31 without any problems at all. The logical step to take now is to run flash eraser and start over. However, I'll wait till Monday to talk with Anthem tech support. Anyone, with any other ideas or suggestions please chime in.


Thanks, Eric


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Eric, I think there's nothing for it but to work the problem with Anthem on Monday.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The new D2 V1.32c test software (June 26 version) is not significantly better than the prior D2 V1.32c version. I.e., it is still broken.


I can't get LPCM audio out of my PS3 at all with it.


And the auto-detect in the PS3 still thinks HDMI 1080i is the best the Anthem can do -- although you can still set 1080p manually and it works.


I think this one needs more time in the oven.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14179885
> 
> 
> Try this:
> 
> 
> Make a copy of your current ARC measurements file (so you don't risk screwing it up).
> 
> 
> Run ARC in Advanced mode. Open the copy file (File menu). Go to the Targets window. Is your Room Gain now showing as 0?
> 
> 
> In the Targets window, do an Auto Detect.
> 
> 
> Is you Room Gain still 0?
> 
> 
> The "Room Gain" is detected by the ARC application as a preliminary processing step after you take the Measurements and before you do the Calculation. It shows up in the Targets window after you complete the Measurements. An Auto Detect causes the ARC application to re-evaluate the currently opened Measurements file and reset the Targets (to the values ARC thinks are best) according to what it sees in there. I.e., you can use Auto Detect to undo any manual Targets changes you might have made.
> 
> 
> A Room Gain of 0 strikes me as very unusual. I don't think we've seen any other reports of it here. You may want to email your ARC measurements file to Anthem tech support and ask them to take a look at it.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


This is the same thing with me, a room gain of 0.000 most of the time. It went up to .17 and maxed out at .34 with some other measurement cycle.If I don't force a room gain of 3 or 4 dB, the Bass sounds thin but still tight. I will also send my ARC results to Anthem for further analysis.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14181130
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> This is the same thing with me, a room gain of 0.000 most of the time. It went up to .17 and maxed out at .34 with some other measurement cycle.If I don't force a room gain of 3 or 4 dB, the Bass sounds thin but still tight. I will also send my ARC results to Anthem for further analysis.



Is there any chance you folks with low or 0 "room gain" aren't following the instructions for mic positioning during your ARC measurements?


The mic positions must be separated from each other by at least 24 inches. The #1 position must be dead center and subsequent positions must alternate either side of center.


If you put the mic positions too close together, ARC will have trouble distinguishing room response from the inherent performance of your speakers and thus, I would presume, would have trouble detecting the correct "room gain".


ETA: NOTE that this means no pair of mic positions can be closer together than 24" even if they aren't measured one right after the other. I.e., like this:


mic #4 mic #1 mic #5

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, I've now switched to doing even my D2 firmware installs using my Apple MacBook / BootCamp / Windows XP / Keyspan USB-Serial Adapter setup. It's working fine! I may be able to retire my older Windows 2000 laptop with the real serial port.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14181151
> 
> 
> Is there any chance you folks with low or 0 "room gain" aren't following the instructions for mic positioning during your ARC measurements?
> 
> 
> The mic positions must be separated from each other by at least 24 inches. The #1 position must be dead center and subsequent positions must alternate either side of center.
> 
> 
> If you put the mic positions too close together, ARC will have trouble distinguishing room response from the inherent performance of your speakers and thus, I would presume, would have trouble detecting the correct "room gain".
> 
> 
> ETA: NOTE that this means no pair of mic positions can be closer together than 24" even if they aren't measured one right after the other. I.e., like this:
> 
> 
> mic #4 mic #1 mic #5
> 
> --Bob



Well, in my situation I have 2 rows of theatre seats. The 2nd row is elevated by around 8 inches relative to the front seats. Yes, mic measurements are done no closer than 24 inches and alternate from each side in relation to mic position 1. With respect to position 4 and 5, they are measured from the rear seats,40 inches away from the front seats and separated 36 inches(mic4 and 5)


Alvin


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14180340
> 
> 
> I understand that AVM50 owners may be able to Add ARC which would involve adding a dual DSP card (not a full D2 upgrade). Expect cost to be about 2x D23 ARC upgrade.




I'm not familiar with the price of the D2 ARC upgrade. What would that be? Given I live 5 minutes from Anthem, guess this would be a no brainer.


John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14181151
> 
> 
> Is there any chance you folks with low or 0 "room gain" aren't following the instructions for mic positioning during your ARC measurements?
> 
> 
> The mic positions must be separated from each other by at least 24 inches. The #1 position must be dead center and subsequent positions must alternate either side of center.
> 
> 
> If you put the mic positions too close together, ARC will have trouble distinguishing room response from the inherent performance of your speakers and thus, I would presume, would have trouble detecting the correct "room gain".
> 
> 
> ETA: NOTE that this means no pair of mic positions can be closer together than 24" even if they aren't measured one right after the other. I.e., like this:
> 
> 
> mic #4 mic #1 mic #5
> 
> --Bob



I'm definitely over 24". My measurements are like 3 and a half feet apart.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14181387
> 
> 
> I'm not familiar with the price of the D2 ARC upgrade. What would that be? Given I live 5 minutes from Anthem, guess this would be a no brainer.
> 
> 
> John



The D2 ARC Upgrade kit is the individually calibrated mic, mic stand, USB mic cable, and ARC application software (including the license/mic-calibration files specific to your order). It has been shipping since April. You already have everything you need in your D2 once you install the D2 V1.33 firmware. NOTE: Newly purchased D2s include ARC in the price and packaged with the D2. No upgrade kit is necessary.


The D2 ARC Upgrade kit for owners of prior D2s is $399. Be aware that the kit you get will only work on the D2 whose serial # you submit as part of the ARC upgrade kit order, so be sure you give them the correct D2 serial #.


What people are talking about is that if Anthem now has ARC for the AVM-40 and AVM-50, then there is probably a hardware upgrade required for those which adds the second DSP processor required for the ARC stuff to run during normal listening. Stay tuned -- news expected on Monday.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14181427
> 
> 
> I'm definitely over 24". My measurements are like 3 and a half feet apart.



Well keep us informed what Anthem says. Should be an interesting conversation!

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,


I have an AVM50 and for the past several months have ignored all ARC posts since I couldn't do it. If AVM 50 can get ARC, I now have to read all the posts, what a pain










John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Poor baby! (grin!)


Well this may all turn out to be a false rumor anyway. Even if Anthem has now found a way to make new AVM-40s and AVM-50s that support ARC, there may not actually be an upgrade kit offered for older unit owners.


Again, stay tuned....

--Bob


----------



## dwwhitley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14181481
> 
> 
> Poor baby! (grin!)
> 
> 
> Well this may all turn out to be a false rumor anyway. Even if Anthem has now found a way to make new AVM-40s and AVM-50s that support ARC, there may not actually be an upgrade kit offered for older unit owners.
> 
> 
> Again, stay tuned....
> 
> --Bob



I sure hope this upgrade is available for the AVM 30; if at all. I will be anxiously waiting for this news.










--Don


----------



## yacht422

bob: RE:macbook/bootcamp, etc

my new mbp15" came in, i upgraded to the latest revisions, and proceeded to load XP home, SP2.

this is truly too long a story to relate in full, but, the install failed.(six times)

what rev levels are you operating at on the mac?[o/s and bootcamp]

[ as a bye the bye, my arc arrived at the dealer yesterday, i went in today to pay, and found that anthem sent the wrong serial #box! - a thanks to you for reminding us all to verify serial#'s b/4 installing] it is on its way back to sunny canada.

walt


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14181095
> 
> 
> The new D2 V1.32c test software (June 26 version) is not significantly better than the prior D2 V1.32c version. I.e., it is still broken.
> 
> 
> I can't get LPCM audio out of my PS3 at all with it.
> 
> 
> And the auto-detect in the PS3 still thinks HDMI 1080i is the best the Anthem can do -- although you can still set 1080p manually and it works.
> 
> 
> I think this one needs more time in the oven.
> 
> --Bob



I tried it also hoping that it would allow me to use the HDMI connection on my SA4240 cable box. No luck, and also no audio through my HD-DVD player and PS3.


----------



## ensmarcum

mr fitz


how did you go about adjusting your gamma up to the right number? did you lower your gamma curves in the d2, which increases the brightness right? is there a huge difference in the setting before and after, i mean is it worth the time and effort? I can do it and I have some time to, but if it really wouldnt matter that much...you know? I do notice thought that my picture seems like it has less detail in darker scenes and where there is darkness in a scene, would adjusting that up and then fixing the brightness and contrast improve those images? My guess is yes. I have a sony lcd flat panel 52" xbr2, if anyone out there with this set has a d2 and has played around with the tv's gamma correction let me know, I would like to correct it there if possible.


----------



## The Bogg

How much does the ARC kit cost in Canada? Haven't seen any published prices. Will probably order soon through the dealer, I just assume it's the same $399 but in Cdn dollars - plus the #%@^@@^ taxes!


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Does anybody know if the beta of version 1.34 is available somehow?

I am sick of having to reboot my HTPC every time I wanna watch a movie.

The HDMI switching feature is supposed to be solved by then.

Or maybe does somebody have an alternate solution in the meantime?

Such as something I could run on the HTPC to make it reset the HDMI/DVI connections?


Thanks


----------



## bool




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14182846
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Does anybody know if the beta of version 1.34 is available somehow?
> 
> I am sick of having to reboot my HTPC every time I wanna watch a movie.
> 
> The HDMI switching feature is supposed to be solved by then.
> 
> Or maybe does somebody have an alternate solution in the meantime?
> 
> Such as something I could run on the HTPC to make it reset the HDMI/DVI connections?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I was having the same problem as you, even bypassing the D2 and going directly to my tv I would sometimes have to reset the PC. Needless to say it was extremely annoying. My video cards came witha DVI to component adapter and that works perfectly. I now have it hooked up to the D2 via component w/no problems.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bool* /forum/post/14183121
> 
> 
> I was having the same problem as you, even bypassing the D2 and going directly to my tv I would sometimes have to reset the PC. Needless to say it was extremely annoying. My video cards came witha DVI to component adapter and that works perfectly. I now have it hooked up to the D2 via component w/no problems.



Well, I never had/have this problem if connected directly to my projector. Only through the D2. I don't like the idea of converting to analog and back to digital again.

There must be a utility or something that resets the DVI *whatever* on an HTPC without having to reset the whole machine.


----------



## jviggi

_Originally Posted by dschamis

For the first time I lost my OSD. Everything else seems to be working fine. I recently upgraded to 1.33, but I'm pretty sure that it had been working. Last night I did another ARC-1 set of measurements w/ 1.2.2. Could that cause me to lose the OSD?


Very weird.


Are there any solutions other than reloading 1.33?_


I had to re-load v1.33


I had a similar problem. I installed v1.33 last week. The install went fine. I ran ARC two different days and uploaded each one and it went fine. I wasn't satisfied that I had good microphone placement so I decided to run ARC again with everything perfect. I ran ARC in advanced mode and carefully performed each step. After uploading, I lost my OSD. I uploaded the latest ARC results a second time and again no OSD. Panic was starting to set in so I re-installed v1.33. Everything worked fine. Well, re-loading v1.33 worked for me

By the way, I used my photo tri-pod and duct taped the Anthem stand (not the base) to the tri-pod head allowing me to manipulate the microphone to any position and keep the exact height.

L/R front 45

Center 50

L/R surr 115

Sub 115

Room Gain 3.94

Eq 5000


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/14181915
> 
> 
> mr fitz
> 
> 
> how did you go about adjusting your gamma up to the right number? did you lower your gamma curves in the d2, which increases the brightness right? is there a huge difference in the setting before and after, i mean is it worth the time and effort? I can do it and I have some time to, but if it really wouldnt matter that much...you know? I do notice thought that my picture seems like it has less detail in darker scenes and where there is darkness in a scene, would adjusting that up and then fixing the brightness and contrast improve those images? My guess is yes. I have a sony lcd flat panel 52" xbr2, if anyone out there with this set has a d2 and has played around with the tv's gamma correction let me know, I would like to correct it there if possible.



With my jvc rs-1 projector my gamma curve was around 1.8. I downloaded colorHCFR for free with which you can read and save you measurements. I bought the x-rite eye-one display lt colorimeter to take the measurements.


To get the right number for my gamma, I took measurements from 10 to 100 IRE window patterns. Then guessed how much I should raise or lower each point from 10 to 100 IRE in the D2 live settings editor. Then I remeasured to see how much it had changed from the original values and continued step by step until all points were right.


I would do it again. It took me about 8-10 hrs to figure it out and to have everything done.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14182846
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Does anybody know if the beta of version 1.34 is available somehow?
> 
> I am sick of having to reboot my HTPC every time I wanna watch a movie.
> 
> The HDMI switching feature is supposed to be solved by then.
> 
> Or maybe does somebody have an alternate solution in the meantime?
> 
> Such as something I could run on the HTPC to make it reset the HDMI/DVI connections?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Anthem is working on the version with new HDMI code, but there's no test version of this new software worth trying yet.


Many people with an HTPC setup reporting in this thread have found use of a Gefen DVI Detective between the HTPC and the Anthem very helpful. Give it a look. It is particularly helpful where the problem appears to be incorrect communication of the EDID block (the exchange of what the devices are capable of doing), and for cases where the handshake gets screwed up because the HTPC is changing resolutions too fast during its boot up.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14183668
> 
> 
> Anthem is working on the version with new HDMI code, but there's no test version of this new software worth trying yet.
> 
> 
> Many people with an HTPC setup reporting in this thread have found use of a Gefen DVI Detective between the HTPC and the Anthem very helpful. Give it a look. It is particularly helpful where the problem appears to be incorrect communication of the EDID block (the exchange of what the devices are capable of doing), and for cases where the handshake gets screwed up because the HTPC is changing resolutions too fast during its boot up.
> 
> --Bob




It's very interesting. Thanks.

The thing is it's a hardware solution.

I mean, to add another step on the video path? Like, the D2 is not enough?

I think I'll wait for Anthem and their new firmware, hoping it will solve the problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14183744
> 
> 
> It's very interesting. Thanks.
> 
> The thing is it's a hardware solution.
> 
> I mean, to add another step on the video path? Like, the D2 is not enough?
> 
> I think I'll wait for Anthem and their new firmware, hoping it will solve the problem.



If it makes the handshake work at the resolution you want, the fact that there is another device in the HDMI path won't make any difference in image quality.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14181659
> 
> 
> bob: RE:macbook/bootcamp, etc
> 
> my new mbp15" came in, i upgraded to the latest revisions, and proceeded to load XP home, SP2.
> 
> this is truly too long a story to relate in full, but, the install failed.(six times)
> 
> what rev levels are you operating at on the mac?[o/s and bootcamp]
> 
> [ as a bye the bye, my arc arrived at the dealer yesterday, i went in today to pay, and found that anthem sent the wrong serial #box! - a thanks to you for reminding us all to verify serial#'s b/4 installing] it is on its way back to sunny canada.
> 
> walt



Walt, sorry about taking so long to respond. The BootCamp on this MacBook was set up by someone else and I needed to verify what was done.


Unfortunately I don't have any good tricks to offer you. The MAC OS X on this MacBook is the current version (10.5.3). BootCamp is also the "latest version". The default partitioning and driver stuff offered by the BootCamp install were what was used. Windows XP Home Edition (SP2) was what was installed -- using its normal install process. There were no tricks necessary to make it work.


There is a Knowledge Base article at the Apple Support site that discusses what you need to do to make the recently released XP SP3 work. Basically you need to be sure you have upgraded to the latest BootCamp *FIRST* to make sure you have the updated drivers SP3 will require.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

Is there a negative issue with always leaving the serial cable connected to the serial port of the D2? I would only connect the other end to my PC when I do a firmware update or run the ARC-1. Once done, I would disconnect it from my PC and leave it connect to my D2. Is this ok?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14184746
> 
> 
> Is there a negative issue with always leaving the serial cable connected to the serial port of the D2? I would only connect the other end to my PC when I do a firmware update or run the ARC-1. Once done, I would disconnect it from my PC and leave it connect to my D2. Is this ok?



No problem at all. That's what I do as well.


In my case, when I disconnect the cable from the PC, I fold it and lay it down beside the D2 (left side when facing the unit -- i.e, away from the heat of the power supply). The "wing" on the standard D2 faceplate does a neat job of concealing it there.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

Can anyone tell me what the 30 sec on step in the upgrade process is designed to accomplish?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/14185581
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me what the 30 sec on step in the upgrade process is designed to accomplish?



I'm not sure, but I *THINK* it only applies when you are upgrading from V1.29j or older to V1.30 or newer. The internal format of some of the settings changed between those and I believe the 30 second step has to do with giving the software time to adjust the old settings to the new format.


Again, I'm not sure of this.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

bob: thx for the response. i used the same software as you, but on a mbp, (vs: a macbook). can't say the choice of laptops is the issue, however, apple has so-o-o-o many issues with the mbp, and this appears to be yet another. (shoulda' bought a dell)

yes, i've been on the apple support line, etc, all to no avail.[ remember the perils of pauline??] --- gad, could be me!

regards,

walt


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14185671
> 
> 
> I'm not sure, but I *THINK* it only applies when you are upgrading from V1.29j or older to V1.30 or newer. The internal format of some of the settings changed between those and I believe the 30 second step has to do with giving the software time to adjust the old settings to the new format.
> 
> 
> Again, I'm not sure of this.
> 
> --Bob



Do you mean adjusting to the new firmware or the user settings?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/14186327
> 
> 
> Do you mean adjusting to the new firmware or the user settings?



I suspect it is reformatting your prior user settings to match what the new firmware is expecting. I doubt that takes much time at all, but allowing 30 seconds makes sure the unit has time to fully power up and do whatever small amount of work is necessary for this, with time to spare as safety margin.

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

Anybody here go from the D2 to the Denon AVP-A1HD....has anybody heard it or own it? It's very tempting....how much you think I can get for my D2 with the ARC kit in Canada?


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/14186535
> 
> 
> Anybody here go from the D2 to the Denon AVP-A1HD....has anybody heard it or own it? It's very tempting....how much you think I can get for my D2 with the ARC kit in Canada?



Didn't you just say the words below 2 days ago? Your comments above seem like quite a turn around, why the sudden change of heart?











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/14176521
> 
> 
> Quite simply an amazing product and worth every penny. Just finished running it once and the results are absolutely stunning. No need to go into any of the cliches....quite simply.....the best sound I have heard in my home and it's like night and day versus what my D2 sounded previous to this.


----------



## MStanic

I still like my D2...it sounds amazing. That said, I'm interested in the Denon as I would be in a D3 if it ever came out. I still like what I have though.


About the only gripe with the D2 is that switching from source to source or starting it up on any source for the first time is a pain with respect to the HDMI handshaking to get the picture. Sometimes, it just doesn't come up unless I turn it off/on again. It seems to be more of an issue with the latest version. There is too much scrambling on the screen before the picture finally locks into place. Maybe, I don't have something set right but all looks okay. I have a Pioneer 60 inch plasma...non 1080p.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/14186914
> 
> 
> I still like my D2...it sounds amazing. That said, I'm interested in the Denon as I would be in a D3 if it ever came out. I still like what I have though.
> 
> 
> About the only gripe with the D2 is that switching from source to source or starting it up on any source for the first time is a pain with respect to the HDMI handshaking to get the picture. Sometimes, it just doesn't come up unless I turn it off/on again. It seems to be more of an issue with the latest version. There is too much scrambling on the screen before the picture finally locks into place. Maybe, I don't have something set right but all looks okay. I have a Pioneer 60 inch plasma...non 1080p.



Stay tuned. The new HDMI software Anthem is working on seems to be *A LOT* better at this. Now at the moment that software has other, significant problems they are still working on, but I think you can expect good things soon on the HDMI front from Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## chas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14163287
> 
> 
> Last night my D2 went nuts. My installer was modifying some programming on my RTI T4 when he turns on my system . . . and . . . no video.
> 
> 
> The D2 starts up on my Tivo S3 connected by HDMI. It seems to lock on to the audio, but can't lock on to video. The D2 display flashes between Tivo (Sat 1) Main and "powering on." Occasionally the display goes purple. I switched to component in for the Tivo and it didn't help.
> 
> 
> In some cases the D2 has displayed a video signal fine only to have it die after a while. When the video fails, it fails on all inputs and on HDMI, S-video, composite and component inputs.
> 
> 
> I tried re-installing firmware 1.31 and 1.33 and back to 1.31 with not much success. This morning I was able to get a video signal eventually (in this case I started from a component in source and was able to switch to my HDMI Tivo). After about 2 minutes I powered down the system, so I do not know how long the video would have remained stable before it died again.
> 
> 
> I will give Nick a call today, but does anyone have any thoughts? It seems hard to believe this is a hardware problem, since I get video intermittently. Maybe in programming the T4 the D2 was fed something through the serial input that corrupted my firmware? I am thinking of trying flash eraser and re-flashing the D2 firmware, although I have so many changes to the D2 that a full erase without being able to fully back up the D2 settings will be painful.
> 
> 
> HELP!



I had pretty much the same problem--no video with the D2 screen flickering "powering on." I tried multiple reboots and I'd occasionally get a flash of video and once some extended video, but it went blank after 30 seconds or so. I reloaded factory defaults for 1.31 with no joy and reset all of my sources--still with no video signal. Finally, I reloaded factory defaults for my Fujitsu plasma and to my amazement everything is working again! Dunno if it will help you, but you ought to reset your display if you haven't already. Good luck!


C.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chas* /forum/post/14187108
> 
> 
> I had pretty much the same problem--no video with the D2 screen flickering "powering on." I tried multiple reboots and I'd occasionally get a flash of video and once some extended video, but it went blank after 30 seconds or so. I reloaded factory defaults for 1.31 with no joy and reset all of my sources--still with no video signal. Finally, I reloaded factory defaults for my Fujitsu plasma and to my amazement everything is working again! Dunno if it will help you, but you ought to reset your display if you haven't already. Good luck!
> 
> 
> C.



Thanks - definitely the same behavior so I will consider giving it a try as a next step -


In my case I suspect there also is something going on with the D2 (I am having the video processor replaced as a start), since I cannot get the firmware to flash properly (it hangs when it tries to flash the video processor RAM).


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14188574
> 
> 
> Thanks - definitely the same behavior so I will consider giving it a try as a next step -
> 
> 
> In my case I suspect there also is something going on with the D2 (I am having the video processor replaced as a start), since I cannot get the firmware to flash properly (it hangs when it tries to flash the video processor RAM).



You may want to consider doing a flash erase of the D2 and reload the firmware. I suggest running the erase program 5-6 times before reloading.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14186379
> 
> 
> I suspect it is reformatting your prior user settings to match what the new firmware is expecting. I doubt that takes much time at all, but allowing 30 seconds makes sure the unit has time to fully power up and do whatever small amount of work is necessary for this, with time to spare as safety margin.
> 
> --Bob



The firmware upgrade notes are not very clear about this point. It states, after the firmware download step, to reload your user settings, but does not tell you to power up the unit to do that. The first power-up reference is to do the 30 sec step. Maybe others have understood the point that you need to power up, load user setting, power down and then power up for the 30 sec step...but it just seems odd. I wonder if the user settings step is based on a download of user settings using the settings.exe program that does not require a power up. I had problems with the D2 downloading 1.32c (6/26) with the DVD losing audio (as others have noted) and my TIVO 3 going nuts and doing a reboot by itself...but when I used the setup.exe program to reload the user settings with no power up of the D2 and then doing the 30 sec thing, all worked OK. I think I'll query Nick on this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/14189781
> 
> 
> The firmware upgrade notes are not very clear about this point. It states, after the firmware download step, to reload your user settings, but does not tell you to power up the unit to do that. The first power-up reference is to do the 30 sec step. Maybe others have understood the point that you need to power up, load user setting, power down and then power up for the 30 sec step...but it just seems odd. I wonder if the user settings step is based on a download of user settings using the settings.exe program that does not require a power up. I had problems with the D2 downloading 1.32c (6/26) with the DVD losing audio (as others have noted) and my TIVO 3 going nuts and doing a reboot by itself...but when I used the setup.exe program to reload the user settings with no power up of the D2 and then doing the 30 sec thing, all worked OK. I think I'll query Nick on this.



Unless you went to V1.32c from V1.29j or older, I don't believe the 30 second step has any effect at all.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14189822
> 
> 
> Unless you went to V1.32c from V1.29j or older, I don't believe the 30 second step has any effect at all.
> 
> --Bob



I checked the firmware instructions back to V1.21b and they all included the 30 sec step.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/14190063
> 
> 
> I checked the firmware instructions back to V1.21b and they all included the 30 sec step.



I believe that's for the same reason -- i.e., a settings format change between the V1.1x versions and the V1.2x versions, as opposed to something that applies if you are installing from one V1.2x version to another.


Anyway, no need to guess. You've already got a question in to Nick on this, right?

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/14189672
> 
> 
> You may want to consider doing a flash erase of the D2 and reload the firmware. I suggest running the erase program 5-6 times before reloading.



I tried using flash eraser and reloading both 1.31 and .133. When I try to reload the firmware, I get to "uploading video processor uC FLASH Programmer Please Wait" and then the firmware upgrade fails with an error notice that says "Video processor uC RAM programming failed.”


I am going to see if a new video processor fixes the problem.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14190086
> 
> 
> I believe that's for the same reason -- i.e., a settings format change between the V1.1x versions and the V1.2x versions, as opposed to something that applies if you are installing from one V1.2x version to another.
> 
> 
> Anyway, no need to guess. You've already got a question in to Nick on this, right?
> 
> --Bob



My bet is that the 30 sec is just to give the D2's clock time to reset.


----------



## DEHAAS

Any news on the announcement from Anthem today (the dual DSP for the AVM series) yet?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Not that I've been able to find.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14190086
> 
> 
> I believe that's for the same reason -- i.e., a settings format change between the V1.1x versions and the V1.2x versions, as opposed to something that applies if you are installing from one V1.2x version to another.
> 
> 
> Anyway, no need to guess. You've already got a question in to Nick on this, right?
> 
> --Bob



Waiting for a reply from Nick!


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14190157
> 
> 
> I tried using flash eraser and reloading both 1.31 and .133. When I try to reload the firmware, I get to "uploading video processor uC FLASH Programmer Please Wait" and then the firmware upgrade fails with an error notice that says "Video processor uC RAM programming failed.
> 
> 
> I am going to see if a new video processor fixes the problem.



I know this may sound lame, but did you remove all the HDMI connectors from the D2 while doing this?


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/14190457
> 
> 
> I know this may sound lame, but did you remove all the HDMI connectors from the D2 while doing this?



Yup - since I am getting ready to replace the video processor, I even removed all of the other (numerous) connections.


----------



## mikefl52

I had a new TV installed on Friday (Pioneer PDP-6020FD) to replace my older CRT RPTV (Hitachi 65XWX20B). This meant that I had to move the center channel from above the RPTV to below the plasma. I reran ARC (my earlier settings are in another post) and not surprisingly everything remained the same except the center and the subwoofer. The center channel cross-over went from 90Hz to 70Hz and the subwoofer went from 120Hz to 90Hz. The change to the center does not surprise me since the old position was pretty high relative to the listening position and the top of the TV was not exactly the most rigid support. Based upon this (again not surprisingly) it looks as if the subwoofer setting is based upon the highest cross-over for all the speakers, not just upon it's own capabilities.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14190563
> 
> 
> I had a new TV installed on Friday (Pioneer PDP-6020FD) to replace my older CRT RPTV (Hitachi 65XWX20B). This meant that I had to move the center channel from above the RPTV to below the plasma. I reran ARC (my earlier settings are in another post) and not surprisingly everything remained the same except the center and the subwoofer. The center channel cross-over went from 90Hz to 70Hz and the subwoofer went from 120Hz to 90Hz. The change to the center does not surprise me since the old position was pretty high relative to the listening position and the top of the TV was not exactly the most rigid support. Based upon this (again not surprisingly) it looks as if the subwoofer setting is based upon the highest cross-over for all the speakers, not just upon it's own capabilities.



Very interesting. I am in the process, right now, of re-arranging my front. I am going to move my center channel from above my TV to below it. I am just waiting on my center channel stand to come which hopefully should be here by Thursday.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14190563
> 
> 
> I had a new TV installed on Friday (Pioneer PDP-6020FD) to replace my older CRT RPTV (Hitachi 65XWX20B). This meant that I had to move the center channel from above the RPTV to below the plasma. I reran ARC (my earlier settings are in another post) and not surprisingly everything remained the same except the center and the subwoofer. The center channel cross-over went from 90Hz to 70Hz and the subwoofer went from 120Hz to 90Hz. The change to the center does not surprise me since the old position was pretty high relative to the listening position and the top of the TV was not exactly the most rigid support. Based upon this (again not surprisingly) it looks as if the subwoofer setting is based upon the highest cross-over for all the speakers, not just upon it's own capabilities.



Not too surprising. The solution ARC comes up with for the bass is determined not only by the relative cross over values but also how it sets the room correction parameters for all the speakers. Having a lot of cross over "overlap" means that bass is generally high through the cross over region, which means that ARC can implement most, if not all, of its room correction (in that frequency range) as cuts -- reduction in volume -- rather than trying to boost volume which is harder. Think in terms of the advantage of adding a second subwoofer for example -- it blends things out, reducing the impact of room response.


A change in the main speaker setup will alter the peaks and dips ARC needs to try to correct, so it will likely come up with a different solution -- and the cross overs are part of that solution.


If the detected "natural" cross over point for any main speaker is high, then that will likely bias the chosen solution towards a high cross over for the sub as well, just to insure that overlap. Change out the speaker for one with a lower "natural" cross over point and ARC will likely settle on a different solution.


====================


ETA: I should point out that overlap in the cross overs like this most likely makes it even *MORE* important that you take some time to manually adjust the subwoofer Polarity and Phase in Setup / Speaker Configuration. ARC only listens to one speaker at a time, so its solution must be based on the assumption that Polarity and Phase will be correct when it comes to playing actual content (i.e., audio coming simultaneously from both the subwoofer and a main speaker will not be out of phase -- will not cancel each other). Since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time, Polarity and Phase can be adjusted before OR after setting up ARC without having to re-Measure in ARC.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

I know that Bob P. runs his DD-15 on preset 6 with ARC and his D2 unless he has now changed that. I normally eq my DD-18 first and then run ARC. After I run ARC and upload the results to my D2, I re-run the eq for my sub. I notice that the graph is not as smooth as it was pre-ARC. Has anyone else experienced the same result? It still sounds good; but, I was just wondering if anyone else has had a similar situation.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14191078
> 
> 
> I know that Bob P. runs his DD-15 on preset 6 with ARC and his D2 unless he has now changed that. I normally eq my DD-18 first and then run ARC. After I run ARC and upload the results to my D2, I re-run the eq for my sub. I notice that the graph is not as smooth as it was pre-ARC. Has anyone else experienced the same result? It still sounds good; but, I was just wondering if anyone else has had a similar situation.



I continue to run my DD-15 with its internal EQ stuff bypassed (Preset #6). After running ARC, I can look at the curve the Velodyne measures using its own test tones and its own microphone. [To do this, make sure the D2 input you are using for that is set to Stereo audio mode *AND* that Room EQ = ON is set for that input!]


The resulting curve is not as flat as I can make it with the Velodyne alone, but the variation is well within acceptable range. Even Velodyne only suggests you target +/- 3dB.


In addition the variation is MUCH less than if you flatten the Velodyne's curve using its internal EQ at one mic position but then move the mic and check again at a different position. I.e., if you let room response screw up what you've done with the Velodyne for one position.


And if you take more time with the Velodyne stuff and come up with a "compromise" Velodyne EQ setting that works well over several mic positions, the variation that's left at any one position is more or less the same as what you get with no EQ in the Velodyne and letting ARC do the work.


The one important difference is that the Velodyne measured curve (Velodyne EQ bypassed and ARC in place) shows a slight up-trend from low frequencies through the cross over. That is just ARC preserving the desirable "Room Gain" -- i.e., the hump you see in the ARC target curves near the cross over.


-----------------------------


Meanwhile, if I take my best "compromise" setting using the Velodyne internal EQ (not perfect at any one mic position, but works well across several mic positions), I find that ARC measurements and results are not as good. I suspect this is due to the impact the Velodyne stuff is having above the cross over that doesn't show up well within the range they measure in their internal EQ chart. I.e., my "best" Velodyne compromise solution is not really that good above the cross over, but I can't *SEE* that in the Velodyne chart. Of course, this may be peculiar to my setup, or the way in which I constructed that "best" Velodyne compromise solution.


In any event, recognizing that I need a solution that works at varying mic positions (and thus targeting completely flat at any one position is wrong), I find that what ARC produces all on its own is easily as good as I could achieve with the Velodyne stuff. So I leave the Velodyne stuff bypassed.


Your mileage may vary.


=========================


ETA: I re-measured with my replacement DD-15 amp and got the same results -- i.e., the Velodyne mic shows some variation with ARC doing all the work, but it is well within what I was targeting in the past for my "compromise" Velodyne-only solution. I'll need to re-measure in a few weeks after I've had a chance to break in the new DD-15 amp some more.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14191187
> 
> 
> I continue to run my DD-15 with its internal EQ stuff bypassed (Preset #6). After running ARC, I can look at the curve the Velodyne measures using its own test tones and its own microphone. [To do this, make sure the D2 input you are using for that is set to Stereo audio mode *AND* that Room EQ = ON is set for that input!]
> 
> 
> The resulting curve is not as flat as I can make it with the Velodyne alone, but the variation is well within acceptable range. Even Velodyne only suggests you target +/- 3dB.
> 
> 
> In addition the variation is MUCH less than if you flatten the Velodyne's curve using its internal EQ at one mic position but then move the mic and check again at a different position. I.e., if you let room response screw up what you've done with the Velodyne for one position.
> 
> 
> And if you take more time with the Velodyne stuff and come up with a "compromise" Velodyne EQ setting that works well over several mic positions, the variation that's left at any one position is more or less the same as what you get with no EQ in the Velodyne and letting ARC do the work.
> 
> 
> The one important difference is that the Velodyne measured curve (Velodyne EQ bypassed and ARC in place) shows a slight up-trend from low frequencies through the cross over. That is just ARC preserving the desirable "Room Gain" -- i.e., the hump you see in the ARC target curves near the cross over.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, if I take my best "compromise" setting using the Velodyne internal EQ (not perfect at any one mic position, but works well across several mic positions), I find that ARC measurements and results are not as good. I suspect this is due to the impact the Velodyne stuff is having above the cross over that doesn't show up well within the range they measure in their internal EQ chart. I.e., my "best" Velodyne compromise solution is not really that good above the cross over, but I can't *SEE* that in the Velodyne chart. Of course, this may be peculiar to my setup, or the way in which I constructed that "best" Velodyne compromise solution.
> 
> 
> In any event, recognizing that I need a solution that works at varying mic positions (and thus targeting completely flat at any one position is wrong), I find that what ARC produces all on its own is easily as good as I could achieve with the Velodyne stuff. So I leave the Velodyne stuff bypassed.
> 
> 
> Your mileage may vary.
> 
> 
> =========================
> 
> 
> ETA: I re-measured with my replacement DD-15 amp and got the same results -- i.e., the Velodyne mic shows some variation with ARC doing all the work, but it is well within what I was targeting in the past for my "compromise" Velodyne-only solution. I'll need to re-measure in a few weeks after I've had a chance to break in the new DD-15 amp some more.
> 
> --Bob




As usual, thanks for the informative and detail response. I appreciate that. I keep forgetting the the Velo is only doing the measurement for 1 listening position; but, the ARC is doing the measurement for all listening position. I prefer to have an overall good response vs a very good response at one listening position.


----------



## EAnderson

All is gold thanks to Piero at Anthem. He instructed to reload the driver for the Keyspan, had no luck with the install of v1.33. He then told me to run the Flash Eraser program as a last resort before returning it to the factory. Great Success!! I was able to load v1.33 with no problems, as a matter of fact, I loaded it twice just to be sure. Now to set everything back to were I was before, then tackle ARC 1.2.2 and run it in my room.


Eric


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/14191674
> 
> 
> All is gold thanks to Piero at Anthem. He instructed to reload the driver for the Keyspan, had no luck with the install of v1.33. He then told me to run the Flash Eraser program as a last resort before returning it to the factory. Great Success!! I was able to load v1.33 with no problems, as a matter of fact, I loaded it twice just to be sure. Now to set everything back to were I was before, then tackle ARC 1.2.2 and run it in my room.
> 
> 
> Eric



I'm glad to see that things are looking up for you. Good luck!!!!


----------



## EAnderson

Thanks, I would do the stack of bouncing smiley heads that Bob used, but I don't know how. Either way, the thought is there. I think that by having both drivers for the Radio Shack and the Keyspan adapters loaded, some trash made it's way to the D2, not sure what happend. Now, you all may be able to tell me how to run v1.2.2 ARC software if I already have v1.0 of it loaded in my notebook. I hope it makes a even better sound improvement over v1.0.


Thanks,Eric


----------



## EAnderson

Running the ARC should easier if I don't have any room EQ on my sub, right?

I use the Martin Logan Descent. Anyway, I made the mistake of running ARC with my screen up rather than down and feel like not doing this could make difference,maybe.


Thanks, Eric


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/14191674
> 
> 
> All is gold thanks to Piero at Anthem. He instructed to reload the driver for the Keyspan, had no luck with the install of v1.33. He then told me to run the Flash Eraser program as a last resort before returning it to the factory. Great Success!! I was able to load v1.33 with no problems, as a matter of fact, I loaded it twice just to be sure. Now to set everything back to were I was before, then tackle ARC 1.2.2 and run it in my room.
> 
> 
> Eric



Great!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/14191840
> 
> 
> Running the ARC should easier if I don't have any room EQ on my sub, right?
> 
> I use the Martin Logan Descent. Anyway, I made the mistake of running ARC with my screen up rather than down and feel like not doing this could make difference,maybe.
> 
> 
> Thanks, Eric



Yes it will be easier. Just put all cross oversetting to the maximum. You want the D2 to decide what the cross over setting will be.


I am using a DaLite Tensioned Cosmopolitan Electrol screen. There is a good difference in sound between screen up or down. To optimize the setup I make two set of measurements one for movie with the screen down and one for music with the screen up.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Eric,

First of all I'm glad that Piero was able to get you going again!


Yes, I suspect there was an interaction between the old RS driver and the new Keyspan driver which then left the Anthem in a bad state. Re-installing the driver probably cured the root problem, but you still needed the Flash Eraser to un-wedge the Anthem.


-----------------------------------------


Installing ARC V1.2.2 is not hard. Download the ARC V1.2.2 install kit from the Anthem site. Unzip it to extract the folder. Open up the folder(s) and find the Setup.exe program inside there.


Now find your original ARC V1.0 install CD and insert it. Open it up and look for 2 files that have names which are mostly numbers. You will see that the names are made up of the serial number of your D2 and the serial number or your ARC mic. Copy those 2 files from the original ARC V1.0 install CD into the folder that contains the Setup.exe program for the ARC V1.2.2 install. Those 2 files are your ARC license specific to your D2 and the unique calibration data for your ARC mic.


You can eject the ARC V1.0 install CD now, you are done with it for the moment.


Now run the Setup.exe progam in the ARC V1.2.2 install kit. The V1.2.2 installer will delete any older version of ARC you happen to have previously installed.


Although the installer doesn't insist upon it, my recommendation is that you always reboot Windows after installing anything just to be sure every part of the install "takes effect".


------------------------------------------


Read section 3.15 of the updated D2 V1.3x Operating Manual. Generally you should start by getting any internal EQ in your subwoofer out of the way -- disabling its internal cross overs being the most important thing. Let the D2 and ARC do all the work. However, if your subwoofer has an intelligent EQ system you may find, in your specific setup, that using a combo of what the sub offers and what ARC offers works best.


Start with just ARC. If that is giving you good results, then you are done. There's no need to futz with extra stuff that might be in the sub unless you are trying to correct some flaw in what ARC produces on its own.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*What does ARC's "Measured" Curve really represent?
*

I've been wondering for some time just what the Measured curve in the ARC charts actually represents, since obviously Anthem is not showing the individual measurements from all the various mic positions.


I just got around to asking Nick at Anthem. The answer is:


"It is an unweighted average of all the mic position measurements for that speaker."


That means that:


1) It is not likely to match precisely any measurement you might take with some other audio calibration tool at any single mic position (even if the mic for that other tool is well calibrated), and


2) The impact of room response shown in the measured curve will vary according to how the room response at the various listening positions combines to increase or decrease this average. I.e., if you have a significant null for some frequency at 3 of 5 mic positions it will show up more in the curve than if it only exists at 1 or 2 of those positions (assuming the same amount of "dip" at that frequency), and


3) If you raise the number of mic positions used during Measurement the normal result would be the curve would smooth out a bit just due to the way averages work. This is not the same as saying ARC has less work to do to correct for your room.


The bottom line is the Measured curve should be taken as an indication of what ARC is trying to correct as opposed to some specific measurement you could compare to other tools.


=======================


ETA: ARC will complain if the measurements at the various listening positions differ so much that it can't do its job. If ARC isn't complaining, then you can feel confident that ARC thinks it has a good solution for you. Comparing the Calculated curves to the Target curves is just a double check on that. If ARC *IS* complaining, the usual fix is to reposition some of the speakers a bit (most often the subwoofer).

--Bob


----------



## BillW

I just had to buy a "new" computer to replace the laptop I use for the Anthem upgrades (among other less important things







). I limited my search to laptops with a serial port. It didn't really limit the search so much as make it easier by limiting the choices. I settled on an use Dell D810., although the newer D820 and D830 still have a serial port.


----------



## jayray

Was looking at a picture of the keyspan usb serial adapter and it looks like the serial end would have difficulty connecting to the anthem serial port. Seems it has a protruding plastic casing. Since everyone who has one says it works I guess I'll have to order one and assume it will fit ok.









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14193476
> 
> 
> Was looking at a picture of the keyspan usb serial adapter and it looks like the serial end would have difficulty connecting to the anthem serial port. Seems it has a protruding plastic casing. Since everyone who has one says it works I guess I'll have to order one and assume it will fit ok.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Do not connect the Keyspan directly to the Anthem.


Get a regular RS-232 serial cable (a "straight through" cable -- pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9) and connect that to the Anthem. The Keyspan plugs into the USB port of your computer and connects to the other end of that cable. You can leave the cable permanently attached to your Anthem, coiled up back there when not in use.

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

So what is the word on the release from Anthem? Anyone got a clue?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If Anthem made an announcement today, I can't find it.


My tipster will get no tip.

--Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/14193924
> 
> 
> So what is the word on the release from Anthem? Anyone got a clue?



I think Bob was just praticing for april fools day for next year


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/14194018
> 
> 
> I think Bob was just praticing for april fools day for next year



We all remember this year's April Fool from Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Hey! My story about HDMI 4.1 was from two different sources!


[OK, so they weren't in English, and both were badly edited. In the "breaking news" game you take what you can get!]

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

Is a pcmcia to rs232 card for a laptop as good as having a "native" serial port? Just wondering if this avoids the driver issues some people have with usb to serial adaptors?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

PCMCIA RS-232 cards also have drivers that get installed.


But that said, we've had lots of reports of people having success with these, and I don't think we've had ANY reports of people having problems.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14195229
> 
> 
> PCMCIA RS-232 cards also have drivers that get installed.
> 
> 
> But that said, we've had lots of reports of people having success with these, and I don't think we've had ANY reports of people having problems.
> 
> --Bob



I use a SIIG PCMCIA card all the time with no problems.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16839150016 


And dont you have drivers installed for ever device in your computer?


----------



## ASW

Shiny red video processor board installed in my D2 and all is well again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14196197
> 
> 
> Shiny red video processor board installed in my D2 and all is well again.



If you ever find out from Anthem what broke in your old board please post here. So far I don't think we've had any reports of installers being able to do something to ATTACHED equipment which breaks the video board -- except of course if they physically damage the HDMI sockets in the Anthem.


I wonder, for example, if your remote control system installer's equipment put a power surge or static discharge on any of the cables attached to your D2.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14197521
> 
> 
> If you ever find out from Anthem what broke in your old board please post here. So far I don't think we've had any reports of installers being able to do something to ATTACHED equipment which breaks the video board -- except of course if they physically damage the HDMI sockets in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> I wonder, for example, if your remote control system installer's equipment put a power surge or static discharge on any of the cables attached to your D2.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I will let you know what Anthem says after they check out the old video board.


After extensive discussions with Nick and my installer (who swears the D2 was dead before he touched the remote), it appears that my installer just happened to be the person who pushed the "on" button at the wrong time on a dying video processor.


For what it is worth, I suspect there has been something brewing with my old video board for a while. For example, my D2 has been VERY finicky about what firmware it likes (1.31 good, 1.29j no video, 1.33 borderline at best). Firmware 1.33 appears to be solid with the new processor. In addition, from time to time the old board would require a power cycle to get it working. Again, at least up until about 2:00am when I wrapped things up, it ran perfectly. Finally, the problem I noticed a while back involving overdriven sunlit scenes seems better or cured altogether (maybe this is just a placebo effect, but the picture really does look better to me)..


One thing that still is a problem is that the video processor locks up if I set my Tivo S3 on "native" and switch to certain SD programming from HD programming. However, I believe that Tivo's firmware may be the culprit here, based on reports on other web sites about describing similar issues with no D2 in the middle.


Regards,


Alan


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14197809
> 
> 
> One thing that still is a problem is that the video processor locks up if I set my Tivo S3 on "native" and switch to certain SD programming from HD programming. However, I believe that Tivo's firmware may be the culprit here, based on reports on other web sites about describing similar issues with no D2 in the middle.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> Alan



Yes Tim and others have reported that here.


I use my TiVo on COMPONENT and always set to 1080i, NOT NATIVE.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14197852
> 
> 
> Yes Tim and others have reported that here.
> 
> 
> I use my TiVo on COMPONENT and always set to 1080i, NOT NATIVE.



Funny but it isn't an HDMI thing with me - I leave the Tivo on HDMI with no problem, but have to set it to 1080i to avoid occasional processor lock-ups.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14197865
> 
> 
> Funny but it isn't an HDMI thing with me - I leave the Tivo on HDMI with no problem, but have to set it to 1080i to avoid occasional processor lock-ups.



If setting it to 1080i saves you --- THEN IT IS a HDMI Issue.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14197893
> 
> 
> If setting it to 1080i saves you --- THEN IT IS a HDMI Issue.



No, because I get the same lock-up if I switch both the Tivo and the display to component.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14198325
> 
> 
> No, because I get the same lock-up if I switch both the Tivo and the display to component.



That should never happen.


Component is pure analog - no handshakes there.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14198653
> 
> 
> That should never happen.
> 
> 
> Component is pure analog - no handshakes there.



I don't believe it is a handshake issue - I think there is something the Tivo is doing when it switches output resolutions that is messing up the D2's processor.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14198672
> 
> 
> I don't believe it is a handshake issue - I think there is something the Tivo is doing when it switches output resolutions that is messing up the D2's processor.



I agree with the first part of your statement. The TiVo

is probably screwing up when it switches resolutions.


BUT on Component - the worst thing the D2 should do

is STOP showing Video if it gets bad analog info from

the Tivo.


There is no way analog data can hang up the D2, other

than a BLANK screen.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14199553
> 
> 
> I agree with the first part of your statement. The TiVo
> 
> is probably screwing up when it switches resolutions.
> 
> 
> BUT on Component - the worst thing the D2 should do
> 
> is STOP showing Video if it gets bad analog info from
> 
> the Tivo.
> 
> 
> There is no way analog data can hang up the D2, other
> 
> than a BLANK screen.



Blank black screen with occasional white flashes that are cured only with a power down or switching inputs. There may be no way analog data can hang the D2, but it hangs the same way whether fed HDMI or component.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2 has to sync to the analog component video input signal and then digitize it to send it to the scaler. It is conceivable that a component video source device could send a signal that the analog video input of the D2 syncs to but the digitizer gets confused by. This might happen, for example, if an improperly formed Component video input signal changes sync rates too fast or has unusual blanking intervals.


It should not be possible to crash the video processor this way, but it is, after all, a computer.


The root problem is most likely in the Tivo.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14199677
> 
> 
> It should not be possible to crash the video processor this way, but it is, after all, a computer.
> 
> 
> The root problem is most likely in the Tivo.
> 
> --Bob



I agree with Dr. Bob - aka Dr. D2


----------



## jayray

Ever since the mere suggestion that ARC might be implemented in the AVM 50,

I have become obsessed with reading the thread from back in Feb. While reading these posts I decided to download the D2 manual and read the section on ARC. In the Updating ARC section, I noticed that the location of the files are now changed with the new firmware to a folder called Anthem and not Anthem Statement. Could this be to reduce the confusion when an AVM50 owner was installing ARC on their compter, ie. not wonder why the Statement was in the folder name and he didn't own a Statement(D2). Yes I am grasping at straws but it provided me with some hope in the absence of any news










John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm keeping an eye on the Anthem AVM-50 web site and also on the site of the PR firm they used to put out their CES press release on ARC for the D2 (Caster Communications), and nothing has shown up. If they are indeed adding ARC support for AVM-40 and AVM-50 they may only announce it direct to their dealer network for now. It took quite a while before the D2 web pages were updated after ARC for the D2 became a reality. On the other hand, it showed up on their dealer price list some weeks before the first D2's with ARC were available. Now I know we have at least one Anthem dealer posting in here.....


So?

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

does the 40 and 50 have the horsepoer to handle arc? if this is the case,when is the extra chip in the D2 going to be used?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14201907
> 
> 
> does the 40 and 50 have the horsepoer to handle arc? if this is the case,when is the extra chip in the D2 going to be used?



I was wondering the same thing.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14201907
> 
> 
> does the 40 and 50 have the horsepoer to handle arc? if this is the case,when is the extra chip in the D2 going to be used?



Hopefully, for dtsHD MA, Dolby TruHD and........DSD.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/14201941
> 
> 
> I was wondering the same thing.



It would need a new (expensive) dual DSP board as part of the upgrade.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14196191
> 
> 
> I use a SIIG PCMCIA card all the time with no problems.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16839150016



Thanks for the link. The picture of the card doesn't look like a db9/rs232 jack, I assume it is a regular jack that takes a normal serial cable, right? May just be the picture but it looks like a plug in jack.


----------



## jayray

should be cheaper than upgrading to a D2.

John


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14202218
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link. The picture of the card doesn't look like a db9/rs232 jack, I assume it is a regular jack that takes a normal serial cable, right? May just be the picture but it looks like a plug in jack.



Ah, I discovered that the serial jack plugs into the port via a short adaptor cable.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14202015
> 
> 
> Hopefully, for dtsHD MA, Dolby TruHD and........DSD.



Is that even possible?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14202183
> 
> 
> It would need a new (expensive) dual DSP board as part of teh upgrade.



What upgrade?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Rob,

We are speculating.


The AVM-40 and the AVM-50 as currently shipped do *NOT* have the necessary processing power to handle ARC. A hardware upgrade would be needed to add the additional DSP.


An audio DSP upgrade (adding the additional DSP ARC needs) would not be sufficient to enable internal decoding of the lossless Blu-Ray bitstreams in either the AVM-40 or AVM-50. Those bitstreams can only be passed over HDMI V1.3. HDMI V1.3 requires newer HDMI port chips than are currently in the Anthem products. The HDMI driver chips are on the video board. So you would also need to replace the video board (plus, most likely, additional audio processing portions as well). The video board is the single most expensive replaceable component in the AVM-50 and in the D2. So I think it much more likely Anthem will offer an ARC-specific audio DSP upgrade for the AVM-40 and AVM-50 that has nothing whatsoever to do with decoding the lossless bitstreams.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14202863
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> We are speculating.
> 
> 
> The AVM-40 and the AVM-50 as currently shipped do *NOT* have the necessary processing power to handle ARC. A hardware upgrade would be needed to add the additional DSP.
> 
> 
> An audio DSP upgrade (adding the additional DSP ARC needs) would not be sufficient to enable internal decoding of the lossless Blu-Ray bitstreams in either the AVM-40 or AVM-50. Those bitstreams can only be passed over HDMI V1.3. HDMI V1.3 requires newer HDMI port chips than are currently in the Anthem products. The HDMI driver chips are on the video board. So you would also need to replace the video board (plus, most likely) additional audio processing portions as well. The video board is the single most expensive replaceable component in the AVM-50 and in the D2. So I think it much more likely Anthem will offer an ARC-specific audio DSP upgrade for the AVM-40 and AVM-50 that has nothing whatsoever to do with decoding the lossless bitstreams.
> 
> --Bob



That's pretty much how I understood it as well Bob, I just wasn't sure if Kal was serious or joking.


----------



## benleeys

Does anybody here know if the D2's XLR audio outputs are truely balanced, ie whether the audio section design of the unit is of balanced circuitry. I can't seem to find mention of this information anywhere and am just wondering if it's worth to invest in XLR cables since my power amps are of balanced design.


-Ben


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14203373
> 
> 
> Does anybody here know if the D2's XLR audio outputs are truely balanced, ie whether the audio section design of the unit is of balanced circuitry. I can't seem to find mention of this information anywhere and am just wondering if it's worth to invest in XLR cables since my power amps are of balanced design.
> 
> 
> -Ben



This is from Anthem's site:


Q1: Are the XLR connections on the amps and preamps truly balanced?


A: Yes. All three pins of the XLR connection are part of the circuit, which means it's a real balanced connection. (If pin 3 is sent to ground or left open, as is sometimes the case, then an XLR jack is an adapter, not a balanced input.) The purpose of balanced connection is cancelling out certain types of interference and ground loops.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14202218
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link. The picture of the card doesn't look like a db9/rs232 jack, I assume it is a regular jack that takes a normal serial cable, right? May just be the picture but it looks like a plug in jack.



The card has a RJ-45 jack and comes with a RJ-45 to serial cable.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14202015
> 
> 
> Hopefully, for dtsHD MA, Dolby TruHD and........DSD.



befor providing dtsHD MA, Dolby TruHD and........DSD to the AVM users they will have to provide it to the D2 users.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/14202826
> 
> 
> Is that even possible?



With an upgraded HDMI input, it might be. Note smiley:


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/14203189
> 
> 
> That's pretty much how I understood it as well Bob, I just wasn't sure if Kal was serious or joking.



1. I was referring to the D2.

2. I inserted the smiley intentionally.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14203957
> 
> 
> This is from Anthem's site:
> 
> 
> Q1: Are the XLR connections on the amps and preamps truly balanced?
> 
> 
> A: Yes. All three pins of the XLR connection are part of the circuit, which means it's a real balanced connection. (If pin 3 is sent to ground or left open, as is sometimes the case, then an XLR jack is an adapter, not a balanced input.) The purpose of balanced connection is cancelling out certain types of interference and ground loops.



But, of course, this does not really answer the question. One can drive the 3 pins with an SE>bal chip or with an SE>bal transformer.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14203373
> 
> 
> Does anybody here know if the D2's XLR audio outputs are truely balanced, ie whether the audio section design of the unit is of balanced circuitry. I can't seem to find mention of this information anywhere and am just wondering if it's worth to invest in XLR cables since my power amps are of balanced design.
> 
> 
> -Ben



It is NOT truly balanced. I believe this is in the faq for the D1/D2 on the website, but it was also posted elsewhere, I just can't remember where. That doesn't mean that xlr cables aren't worth it. "Truly" balanced means having double the components in the balanced circuit and not many ssps will do this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Our Far Flung Correspondents are starting to send in info from dealers:


There will be an ARC Upgrade at least for the AVM-50.


Based on other info, it looks like it will also be available for the AVM-40. Apparently it will NOT be available for the AVM-30 (unless of course you upgrade the AVM-30 to an AVM-50). I don't know why this would be the case since ARC is offered for the D1 now, so the HDMI jacks and video board are not necessary for ARC itself. But perhaps the add-on "second DSP", required for ARC in the AVM units, plugs into the video board for power or whatever.


It looks like Anthem is perhaps as much as 2 weeks away from publicly announcing this.


The ARC portion of the upgrade will retain the D2 ARC upgrade kit pricing of $399, but there is also a hardware upgrade required to add the second DSP.


One report puts the total price of the ARC upgrade for the AVM-50 at $800 (hardware change plus ARC kit). Obviously any such pricing reports are not solid as of yet.


So far I've not heard anything which suggests the hardware upgrade would be dealer installable. I.e., it appears that you would need to send your AVM-50 in to Anthem to get the hardware upgrade installed.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14206009
> 
> 
> Our Far Flung Correspondents are starting to send in info from dealers:
> 
> 
> There will be an ARC Upgrade at least for the AVM-50.
> 
> 
> Based on other info, it looks like it will also be available for the AVM-40. Apparently it will NOT be available for the AVM-30 (unless of course you upgrade the AVM-30 to an AVM-50). I don't know why this would be the case since ARC is offered for the D1 now, so the HDMI jacks and video board are not necessary for ARC itself. But perhaps the add-on "second DSP", required for ARC in the AVM units, plugs into the video board for power or whatever.
> 
> 
> It looks like Anthem is perhaps as much as 2 weeks away from publicly announcing this.
> 
> 
> The ARC portion of the upgrade will retain the D2 ARC upgrade kit pricing of $399, but there is also a hardware upgrade required to add the second DSP.
> 
> 
> One report puts the total price of the ARC upgrade for the AVM-50 at $800 (hardware change plus ARC kit). Obviously any such pricing reports are not solid as of yet.
> 
> 
> So far I've not heard anything which suggests the hardware upgrade would be dealer installable. I.e., it appears that you would need to send your AVM-50 in to Anthem to get the hardware upgrade installed.
> 
> --Bob




This is great and it true will show again that Anthem is behind their customers and deliver when it comes to upgrade path.


----------



## jayray

This is great news for us little brothers(avm50). Can't wait. Now that this is looking like it will happen I have several questions.


1. I have several large cardboard Characters in my room. Should they be removed or just left to let ARC adjust to their presence?


2. My understanding is that if you run Standard for ARC, you can save a file and open it later in Advanced and recalculate to get the graphs. If not interested in the graphs, or adjusting anything after ARC is there any reason standard shouldn't be run?

thank,

John


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14206431
> 
> 
> This is great news for us little brothers(avm50). Can't wait. Now that this is looking like it will happen I have several questions.
> 
> 
> 1. I have several large cardboard Characters in my room. Should they be removed or just left to let ARC adjust to their presence?
> 
> 
> 2. My understanding is that if you run Standard for ARC, you can save a file and open it later in Advanced and recalculate to get the graphs. If not interested in the graphs, or adjusting anything after ARC is there any reason standard shouldn't be run?
> 
> thank,
> 
> John



This is not a news yet just speculation founded on rumors and based on dealer comments. It is not news until it is announced by Anthem.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14206431
> 
> 
> 1. I have several large cardboard Characters in my room. Should they be removed or just left to let ARC adjust to their presence?



Everything that is usually there when listening/viewing should be there when measuring/equalizing. The only exception would be noisy display devices. For example, I turn off my plasma display.



> Quote:
> 2. My understanding is that if you run Standard for ARC, you can save a file and open it later in Advanced and recalculate to get the graphs. If not interested in the graphs, or adjusting anything after ARC is there any reason standard shouldn't be run?



You can just run Standard. If you like it, fine. If you don't, you can use the same measurements in the Advanced mode for adjustments and recalculations. OTOH, I prefer to measure in Advanced mode since you get a "more considerate interface."


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14206525
> 
> 
> Everything that is usually there when listening/viewing should be there when measuring/equalizing. The only exception would be noisy display devices. For example, I turn off my plasma display.



Is it good or bad if I make my measurements from the adjacent equipment room (opens up to the main room through an opening in one wall)? I install my laptop in the equipment room and run the mic cable besides the equipment rack. Previously, I used to do it inside the main room but sometimes, found myself in the way between the speakers and the mic and I used to move around to minimize the effect.


Is there a concensus on this?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14206450
> 
> 
> This is not a news yet just speculation founded on rumors and based on dealer comments. It is not news until it is announced by Anthem.



Yes but we can dream









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14206525
> 
> 
> Everything that is usually there when listening/viewing should be there when measuring/equalizing. The only exception would be noisy display devices. For example, I turn off my plasma display.
> 
> 
> You can just run Standard. If you like it, fine. If you don't, you can use the same measurements in the Advanced mode for adjustments and recalculations. OTOH, I prefer to measure in Advanced mode since you get a "more considerate interface."




Thanks Kal,

gives me something to ponder until a REAL annoucement is made.

John


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14203957
> 
> 
> This is from Anthem's site: ...........



Thanks, ninja, for pointing me to the site.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14205213
> 
> 
> But, of course, this does not really answer the question. One can drive the 3 pins with an SE>bal chip or with an SE>bal transformer.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14205824
> 
> 
> It is NOT truly balanced. I believe this is in the faq for the D1/D2 on the website, but it was also posted elsewhere, I just can't remember where. That doesn't mean that xlr cables aren't worth it. "Truly" balanced means having double the components in the balanced circuit and not many ssps will do this.



That's what I thought (and was afraid of) after reading the FAQs. Am not really sure that it's worth the expense if it's not truely balanced.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14206684
> 
> 
> Is it good or bad if I make my measurements from the adjacent equipment room (opens up to the main room through an opening in one wall)? I install my laptop in the equipment room and run the mic cable besides the equipment rack. Previously, I used to do it inside the main room but sometimes, found myself in the way between the speakers and the mic and I used to move around to minimize the effect.
> 
> 
> Is there a concensus on this?



A good idea. Removing all random, unrelated noise, such as might come from the PC and the user is a good idea.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14206880
> 
> 
> That's what I thought (and was afraid of) after reading the FAQs. Am not really sure that it's worth the expense if it's not truely balanced.



Why? The major value, imho, of balanced connections is what lies between the output stage of the source and the input stage of the sink. The advantageous CMRR of balanced connections is accomplished by the setup in the D2 if you need it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14206684
> 
> 
> Is it good or bad if I make my measurements from the adjacent equipment room (opens up to the main room through an opening in one wall)? I install my laptop in the equipment room and run the mic cable besides the equipment rack. Previously, I used to do it inside the main room but sometimes, found myself in the way between the speakers and the mic and I used to move around to minimize the effect.
> 
> 
> Is there a concensus on this?



You need to have a serial connection to the D2 and of course the microphone connection as well. That limits where you can place your computer during the measurements.


In my case, I use a laptop that is set on a coffee table between the D2 and the listening positions. My laptop produces no fan noise.


I use a wireless mouse so that I can step well away from the computer (and out of the path of any of the speakers) before triggering the measurement at each new mic position.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14206431
> 
> 
> This is great news for us little brothers(avm50). Can't wait. Now that this is looking like it will happen I have several questions.
> 
> 
> 1. I have several large cardboard Characters in my room. Should they be removed or just left to let ARC adjust to their presence?
> 
> 
> 2. My understanding is that if you run Standard for ARC, you can save a file and open it later in Advanced and recalculate to get the graphs. If not interested in the graphs, or adjusting anything after ARC is there any reason standard shouldn't be run?
> 
> thank,
> 
> John



Set up your room as you would have it for normal listening. This includes doors opened/closed, curtains opened/closed, etc.


NOTE: The doors open/closed thing is IMPORTANT. Even a closet door being open may produce a significant change in room response in the bass frequencies.


ARC's Advanced mode is dead easy to use. You don't HAVE TO make any changes to the ARC defaults. The nicest thing about Advanced mode is that you get to decide when each phase of the process happens: Measurement, Calculation, and Upload.


For example, I take my measurements and then exit ARC after the measurements are saved to the file. Then I make a copy of that file and Write Protect the original. Then I restart ARC, open the copy of the file, do the Calculations and do the Upload. If I ever want to revisit ARCs settings I know my original measurement file is guaranteed to be the way it was right after the measurements were taken. I can just make another copy of it. There's no chance I could somehow screw up that file and need to do the measurements all over again.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Great, sounds very easy. Hope I can try it.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Got More than One ARC Mic? *** WORRIES! *** (New Information!)*


I previously reported that ARC would not let you accidentally use the wrong ARC mic if you happen to have more than one; that if you happen to accidentally plug in an ARC mic which is not matched by serial # with the ARC licensing and calibration files specific to the D2 currently attached on the serial cable that ARC would act as if NO microphone was connected. And thus ARC wouldn't let you make such a mistake.

****** THE ABOVE INFORMATION IS INCORRECT! ******


It turns out, the correct information is that ARC only checks to see if the attached microphone identifies itself over the USB cable as an "ARC-1" microphone -- *ANY* ARC-1 microphone. If so, the ARC application will blithely use that microphone in conjunction with the licensing and calibration files that match (by serial #) to the D2 currently connected on the serial cable EVEN IF YOU HAPPEN TO HAVE THE WRONG ARC MIC CONNECTED!


This is nasty because that means your measurements will use the INCORRECT mic calibration data -- i.e., the mic calibration data for the ARC mic you SHOULD have been using! You will get no warning that you are using the wrong mic.


Nick at Anthem tells me that they are in the process of adding mic serial # sticky labels to the ARC mics themselves (not just the box the mic comes in) as they package them up to reduce the chance a user with more than one ARC mic may make this mistake.


However the user still has to be careful to use *ONLY* the ARC mic that is matched with the specific D2 being measured so that the right mic calibration data is applied. You will still get no warning if you are careless and use the wrong ARC mic.


Folks with more than one current ARC mic would be well advised to apply their own sticky label of some sort to reduce the chance of accidentally using the wrong mic with any given D2.


I have edited my older post to state that it is incorrect, and to point people to this post for the correct info.

--Bob


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14206684
> 
> 
> Is it good or bad if I make my measurements from the adjacent equipment room (opens up to the main room through an opening in one wall)? I install my laptop in the equipment room and run the mic cable besides the equipment rack. Previously, I used to do it inside the main room but sometimes, found myself in the way between the speakers and the mic and I used to move around to minimize the effect.
> 
> 
> Is there a concensus on this?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14206925
> 
> 
> A good idea. Removing all random, unrelated noise, such as might come from the PC and the user is a good idea.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14207104
> 
> 
> You need to have a serial connection to the D2 and of course the microphone connection as well. That limits where you can place your computer during the measurements.
> 
> 
> In my case, I use a laptop that is set on a coffee table between the D2 and the listening positions. My laptop produces no fan noise.
> 
> 
> I use a wireless mouse so that I can step well away from the computer (and out of the path of any of the speakers) before triggering the measurement at each new mic position.
> 
> --Bob



Kal and Bob,


I was refering to the fact that (as Kal mentioned earlier) everything that is normally in the room during listening sessions should also be in the room during the measurements procedure. I suppose that this includes at least one body inside the room....So the question I am having is, to what extent does it matter for myself to be out of the room during ARC measurements? I presume minor high frequency effects (less absopbtions)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14207889
> 
> 
> Kal and Bob,
> 
> 
> I was refering to the fact that (as Kal mentioned earlier) everything that is normally in the room during listening sessions should also be in the room during the measurements procedure. I suppose that this includes at least one body inside the room....So the question I am having is, to what extent does it matter for myself to be out of the room during ARC measurements? I presume minor high frequency effects (less absopbtions)?



I doubt your presence/absence will make a noticeable difference.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14206689
> 
> 
> Yes but we can dream
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I know how peoples and AVS get really quickly too excited. Just want to make sure that it was clear that there is no official announcement.


----------



## jayray

Tolstoi,

I have yet to find a more supportive thread at AVS and took no offense at your comment. I knew exactly what you meant but I was too excited









John


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Wondered if now with the ps3 2.4 firmware, do we still leave the ps3 on 5.1 with 7.1 titles with our anthems.

John

of course that depends on whether they fix it


----------



## ensmarcum

So if the avm 50 gets this upgrade how is that different than a d2? it will have the 2 dsps and arc right? so what did i pay for when i bought the d2? no offense 50 owners please dont attack me just asking!


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14207965
> 
> 
> I doubt your presence/absence will make a noticeable difference.
> 
> --Bob



Unless you are positioned to block much direct radiation from a speaker to the mic.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/14208879
> 
> 
> So if the avm 50 gets this upgrade how is that different than a d2? it will have the 2 dsps and arc right? so what did i pay for when i bought the d2? no offense 50 owners please dont attack me just asking!



24-bit/192-kHz Precision Upsampler for one. In addition when you factor in the cost of the upgrade, you are probably still better off with the D2.


----------



## jayray

Prior to ARC, what did the extra DSP board do in the D2?


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Prior to ARC, the 2nd DSP in the D2 was unused. The second DSP in the D2 has ALWAYS been dedicated to ARC. ARC just took longer to get out than was anticipated.


--------------------------------------


The D2 does its internal digital audio processing at 192KHz. The AVM-50 does it at 96KHZ. The analog output section of the D2 is matched to its internal 192KHz processing. The power supply of the D2 is also better.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More news on ARC for the AVM units from "a usually reliable source":


It will soon (a couple weeks) be possible to order a new AVM-40 or AVM-50 with ARC bundled. The bundle will include the ARC kit (as used with the D2) plus an additional DSP hardware upgrade in the AVM. The bundle pricing is not yet available, but the word I have is that it will attractively priced. It will ALSO still be possible to order a new AVM-40 or AVM-50 without ARC or the 2nd DSP if you prefer.


About 2 weeks or so after AVM-40 and AVM-50 bundles can be ordered, current AVM-40 and AVM-50 owners will be able to order ARC upgrade kits that bundle the normal ARC kit with an AVM DSP upgrade.


THE DSP UPGRADE WILL BE FIELD (DEALER) INSTALLABLE!


Pricing will be right around $800. I.e., $400 for the ARC kit as sold to D2 customers plus $400 for the DSP upgrade.


I believe this info to be accurate, but the dates may still slip a bit.

--Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

Anthems upgrade pricing is amazing!


I love my d2 with arc


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14208448
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Wondered if now with the ps3 2.4 firmware, do we still leave the ps3 on 5.1 with 7.1 titles with our anthems.
> 
> John
> 
> of course that depends on whether they fix it



Yes. The Anthems can not accept more than 5.1 channel HDMI LPCM input.


Let the PS3 merge any rear channel info from 7.1 tracks into the side channels to make 5.1 output.


If you have a 7.1 speaker setup, you have the option of turning on a surround audio mode in the Anthem, such as PLIIx, to have the Anthem extract rear content from the side channels of the 5.1 input and send it to your rear speakers.


Note that whether you have a 5.1 or 7.1 speaker setup, you can still select 7.1 tracks off the Blu-Ray disc and the PS3 and Anthem will "do the right thing" with the PS3 set to send 5.1 to the Anthem. No content is lost.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14208135
> 
> 
> Tolstoi,
> 
> I have yet to find a more supportive thread at AVS and took no offense at your comment. I knew exactly what you meant but I was too excited
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



The ARC is a really nice component and Anthem have to spread the usage of it as much as possible.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14209323
> 
> 
> Prior to ARC, what did the extra DSP board do in the D2?
> 
> 
> John



Nothing!!!! It was there just to support the ARC.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14210243
> 
> 
> The ARC is a really nice component and Anthem have to spread the usage of it as much as possible.



Yes and also amortize the development costs with more sales.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14209847
> 
> 
> More news on ARC for the AVM units from "a usually reliable source":
> 
> 
> It will soon (a couple weeks) be possible to order a new AVM-40 or AVM-50 with ARC bundled. The bundle will include the ARC kit (as used with the D2) plus an additional DSP hardware upgrade in the AVM. The bundle pricing is not yet available, but the word I have is that it will attractively priced. It will ALSO still be possible to order a new AVM-40 or AVM-50 without ARC or the 2nd DSP if you prefer.
> 
> 
> About 2 weeks or so after AVM-40 and AVM-50 bundles can be ordered, current AVM-40 and AVM-50 owners will be able to order ARC upgrade kits that bundle the normal ARC kit with an AVM DSP upgrade.
> 
> 
> THE DSP UPGRADE WILL BE FIELD (DEALER) INSTALLABLE!
> 
> 
> Pricing will be right around $800. I.e., $400 for the ARC kit as sold to D2 customers plus $400 for the DSP upgrade.
> 
> 
> I believe this info to be accurate, but the dates may still slip a bit.
> 
> --Bob



Just amazing and fast. The ARC is available on the D2 since only a few months, not even 6 months.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

An AVM-50 with ARC is a really sweet combo, and one heck of a bargain.


I have no regrets whatsoever getting my D2, and would still recommend it to those who can afford it, and of course it now ships bundled with ARC. But for folks who need to watch the budget a bit more closely, the AVM-50 with ARC has got to be one hot product.


(I continue to think that getting an AVM-50 over an AVM-40 is a smart move.)

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

I see how they differ, I wasnt trying to me mean or a ********, just asking. Thanks for the answers.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14210255
> 
> 
> Yes and also amortize the development costs with more sales.



yes and get more funding for additional features.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14210439
> 
> 
> yes and get more funding for additional features.



And while we are being snarky, let's also note that ARC is an important branding feature for Anthem and should be available on as many of their models as possible.


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14209847
> 
> 
> More news on ARC for the AVM units from "a usually reliable source":
> 
> 
> It will soon (a couple weeks) be possible to order a new AVM-40 or AVM-50 with ARC bundled. The bundle will include the ARC kit (as used with the D2) plus an additional DSP hardware upgrade in the AVM. The bundle pricing is not yet available, but the word I have is that it will attractively priced. It will ALSO still be possible to order a new AVM-40 or AVM-50 without ARC or the 2nd DSP if you prefer.
> 
> 
> About 2 weeks or so after AVM-40 and AVM-50 bundles can be ordered, current AVM-40 and AVM-50 owners will be able to order ARC upgrade kits that bundle the normal ARC kit with an AVM DSP upgrade.
> 
> 
> THE DSP UPGRADE WILL BE FIELD (DEALER) INSTALLABLE!
> 
> 
> Pricing will be right around $800. I.e., $400 for the ARC kit as sold to D2 customers plus $400 for the DSP upgrade.
> 
> 
> I believe this info to be accurate, but the dates may still slip a bit.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I'm guessing that this would also be available for an AVM 20-HD? I have really enjoyed the difference on my D2 and would welcome the improvement on the AVM 20-HD.


Buddy


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Hey Kal, have you done your review on the Anthem yet?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/14210960
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I'm guessing that this would also be available for an AVM 20-HD? I have really enjoyed the difference on my D2 and would welcome the improvement on the AVM 20-HD.
> 
> 
> Buddy



So far only the AVM-40 and AVM-50 have been mentioned in what I've seen. This would, of course, include an AVM-30 that's been upgrade to an AVM-50. We'll just have to wait for more details from Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## barhoram

I'm having an issue with a digital audio input on my D2 that's in the theater.


We have Extron matrix switcher that feeds the rest of the house component HD and digital audio audio (coax). I've finally gotten around to adding a feed from the whole house system to the theater system. The component video works fine, but the D2 is not picking up the digital audio stream if processed through the Extron matrix switcher. If I bypass the switcher, it picks it up fine...but that won't be a long term fix.


Here is the odd thing...I drug an old HK receiver to the theater and it picks up the audio stream processed by the matrix switch just fine! Works exactly as it should. In fact, if I connect the "digital out" from the receiver to the D2, it will finally pick it up the audio.


Any thoughts?? It seems the anthem doesn't like the digital signal when sent through a matrix switch.


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14211017
> 
> 
> So far only the AVM-40 and AVM-50 have been mentioned in what I've seen. This would, of course, include an AVM-30 that's been upgrade to an AVM-50. We'll just have to wait for more details from Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Since I had the AVM 20 upgraded to the AVM 20-HD, I thought it was equivalent to an AVM 50. I'm hoping this is the case. I'm also glad to hear that this sounds like a field upgrade. I really don't want to send my AVM 20-HD across the border again!


Buddy


----------



## ditcin

Bob,

As you might remember I had a problem getting the ARC-1 to finished uploading to my D2 after calibration. I was getting an error message stating the sub needed to be lowered to -21 or -17.

After posting several people here tried to offer suggestions but none helped. That was during a weekend so I tried everything until I was able to contact Anthem on Monday morn.

After several calls and speaking with Peiro the tech team finally came up with a new variation on the ARC-1 program for me to download from their password site. A quick download later, another go through the calibration and WHAM - it worked.

It seems they were contacted by someone else who also was going through the same problem but with a different sub so this problem helped us both.

After watching 4 Dirty Harry movies from the new box set , and checking out tried and true clips from various fav films I can say the difference is amazing.

It took almost a week and half but Anthem did come through. Thankfully.

I want to also thank you, and those here to reached out with suggestions to try to sort this out. *The concern is much appreciated.*

With thanks,

Scott


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14209847
> 
> 
> More news on ARC for the AVM units from "a usually reliable source":
> 
> 
> It will soon (a couple weeks) be possible to order a new AVM-40 or AVM-50 with ARC bundled. The bundle will include the ARC kit (as used with the D2) plus an additional DSP hardware upgrade in the AVM. The bundle pricing is not yet available, but the word I have is that it will attractively priced. It will ALSO still be possible to order a new AVM-40 or AVM-50 without ARC or the 2nd DSP if you prefer.
> 
> 
> About 2 weeks or so after AVM-40 and AVM-50 bundles can be ordered, current AVM-40 and AVM-50 owners will be able to order ARC upgrade kits that bundle the normal ARC kit with an AVM DSP upgrade.
> 
> 
> THE DSP UPGRADE WILL BE FIELD (DEALER) INSTALLABLE!
> 
> 
> Pricing will be right around $800. I.e., $400 for the ARC kit as sold to D2 customers plus $400 for the DSP upgrade.
> 
> 
> I believe this info to be accurate, but the dates may still slip a bit.
> 
> --Bob



Seems like Anthem is closing the GAP on the AVM-50 and the D2, seems like one of two things will happen.


1. The D2 will get an upgrade also, to keep it special or


2. The D2 will go out of production soon, as maybe a new product is on the way.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14212422
> 
> 
> Seems like Anthem is closing the GAP on the AVM-50 and the D2, seems like one of two things will happen.
> 
> 
> 1. The D2 will get an upgrade also, to keep it special or
> 
> 
> 2. The D2 will go out of production soon, as maybe a new product is on the way.



#1 is the winner!


----------



## darkvisionsinc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14209847
> 
> 
> More news on ARC for the AVM units from "a usually reliable source":
> 
> 
> It will soon (a couple weeks) be possible to order a new AVM-40 or AVM-50 with ARC bundled. The bundle will include the ARC kit (as used with the D2) plus an additional DSP hardware upgrade in the AVM. The bundle pricing is not yet available, but the word I have is that it will attractively priced. It will ALSO still be possible to order a new AVM-40 or AVM-50 without ARC or the 2nd DSP if you prefer.
> 
> 
> About 2 weeks or so after AVM-40 and AVM-50 bundles can be ordered, current AVM-40 and AVM-50 owners will be able to order ARC upgrade kits that bundle the normal ARC kit with an AVM DSP upgrade.
> 
> 
> THE DSP UPGRADE WILL BE FIELD (DEALER) INSTALLABLE!
> 
> 
> Pricing will be right around $800. I.e., $400 for the ARC kit as sold to D2 customers plus $400 for the DSP upgrade.
> 
> 
> I believe this info to be accurate, but the dates may still slip a bit.
> 
> --Bob



Any chance of the AVM-30 being in the ARC chain. I just bought mine and I would definitely spend the $800.00 for room correction. I hook my HD-DVD and Blu-Ray players directly to the tv. I like the option of not having to turn on the AVM-30 and PVA-5 every time I want to watch a movie and I am not really interested in video processing at this time but the ARC would be great. My living room where my set up is, is kind of funky with a bay window, stairway in the back, entrance into kitchen and I am sure the ARC would make my AVM-30 sound even better than it does...


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/14211009
> 
> 
> Hey Kal, have you done your review on the Anthem yet?



Part 1 is done.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14212422
> 
> 
> Seems like Anthem is closing the GAP on the AVM-50 and the D2, seems like one of two things will happen.
> 
> 
> 1. The D2 will get an upgrade also, to keep it special or
> 
> 
> 2. The D2 will go out of production soon, as maybe a new product is on the way.



I am not sure that I would draw that conclusion - the D2 and the AVM50 have always been pretty close in terms of ability with the D2 being a "statement" product (no pun intended). Even after an AVM50 ARC upgrade, the D2 still is differentiated by:

- 24/192 upsampling on all inputs

- DTS 24/96

- lip sync 0-170 ms (0-85 on AVM)


I doubt many new purchasers for whom ARC is critical would opt for the AVM-50 and an $800-$1,000 upgrade that requires sending your new unit to the factory over buying the D2 with ARC included. Just my $.02.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14212108
> 
> 
> I'm having an issue with a digital audio input on my D2 that's in the theater.
> 
> 
> We have Extron matrix switcher that feeds the rest of the house component HD and digital audio audio (coax). I've finally gotten around to adding a feed from the whole house system to the theater system. The component video works fine, but the D2 is not picking up the digital audio stream if processed through the Extron matrix switcher. If I bypass the switcher, it picks it up fine...but that won't be a long term fix.
> 
> 
> Here is the odd thing...I drug an old HK receiver to the theater and it picks up the audio stream processed by the matrix switch just fine! Works exactly as it should. In fact, if I connect the "digital out" from the receiver to the D2, it will finally pick it up the audio.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?? It seems the anthem doesn't like the digital signal when sent through a matrix switch.



In Setup / Source Setup for that D2 input, confirm that Auto Dig = OFF. This simplifies the process by which the D2 syncs up to the digital audio input.


Also, temporarily try a different digital audio input on the D2.


The problem could be as simple as a faulty cable between the D2 and the switcher. If you are using optical digital cable, for example, you may have fingerprint oil on the optical tip at either end of the cable or some dust in the optical socket at either end of the cable. Try a different cable. Also, get a can of clean compressed air (of the type sold in camera stores for blowing dust off lenses for example) and try a brief squire in the optical socket at each end. Optical cable can also be damaged if it has been stepped on or bent too sharply around a corner. Coax digital audio cable can have a break inside the insulation. Again, try a different cable.


If none of those suggestions does the trick, you will need to contact Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/14212203
> 
> 
> Since I had the AVM 20 upgraded to the AVM 20-HD, I thought it was equivalent to an AVM 50. I'm hoping this is the case. I'm also glad to hear that this sounds like a field upgrade. I really don't want to send my AVM 20-HD across the border again!
> 
> 
> Buddy



My guess is you'll be fine, but I'm not certain.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darkvisionsinc* /forum/post/14212557
> 
> 
> Any chance of the AVM-30 being in the ARC chain. I just bought mine and I would definitely spend the $800.00 for room correction. I hook my HD-DVD and Blu-Ray players directly to the tv. I like the option of not having to turn on the AVM-30 and PVA-5 every time I want to watch a movie and I am not really interested in video processing at this time but the ARC would be great. My living room where my set up is, is kind of funky with a bay window, stairway in the back, entrance into kitchen and I am sure the ARC would make my AVM-30 sound even better than it does...



I don't know why the AVM-30 would not be included (since the D1 supports ARC and the AVM30 to the AVM50 is the same as the D1 to the D2). But mention of the original AVM-30 (i.e., a unit that has not yet been upgraded to an AVM-50) has been CONSPICUOUSLY ABSENT in everything I've seen so far regarding this upcoming ARC for AVM offering.


We'll just have to wait for the official word to come out.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14212297
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> As you might remember I had a problem getting the ARC-1 to finished uploading to my D2 after calibration. I was getting an error message stating the sub needed to be lowered to -21 or -17.
> 
> After posting several people here tried to offer suggestions but none helped. That was during a weekend so I tried everything until I was able to contact Anthem on Monday morn.
> 
> After several calls and speaking with Peiro the tech team finally came up with a new variation on the ARC-1 program for me to download from their password site. A quick download later, another go through the calibration and WHAM - it worked.
> 
> It seems they were contacted by someone else who also was going through the same problem but with a different sub so this problem helped us both.
> 
> After watching 4 Dirty Harry movies from the new box set , and checking out tried and true clips from various fav films I can say the difference is amazing.
> 
> It took almost a week and half but Anthem did come through. Thankfully.
> 
> I want to also thank you, and those here to reached out with suggestions to try to sort this out. *The concern is much appreciated.*
> 
> With thanks,
> 
> Scott



That's great! By the way, did you ever find a fix for your sub that makes it respond as would normally be expected when turning down its internal volume?


Or does the new ARC simply let you send a deeper volume trim cut to the D2 (i.e., -19.5 dB was I believe what you needed to send)?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14212939
> 
> 
> I doubt many new purchasers for whom ARC is critical would opt for the AVM-50 and an $800-$1,000 upgrade that requires sending your new unit to the factory over buying the D2 with ARC included. Just my $.02.



Except that you will soon be able to order a new AVM-50 with ARC pre-bundled at the factory. No need to send it back.


And for current AVM-50 owners, the word is that the upgrade to ARC is field (dealer) installable.


----------------------------------------


In addition to the other items you mentioned, the D2 also has a better power supply.


There have been a number of posts here over the past 2 years reporting that the audio from the D2 is superior to the audio from the AVM-50. With ARC on both units I would expect that to still be true.


The inability, in the past, to get ARC for the AVM-50 was, indeed, a significant factor pushing people towards the D2. So in that regard the gap has been narrowed. But the D2 is still a better sounding unit.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14213307
> 
> 
> Except that you will soon be able to order a new AVM-50 with ARC pre-bundled at the factory. No need to send it back.
> 
> 
> And for current AVM-50 owners, the word is that the upgrade to ARC is field (dealer) installable.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In addition to the other items you mentioned, the D2 also has a better power supply.
> 
> 
> There have been a number of posts here over the past 2 years reporting that the audio from the D2 is superior to the audio from the AVM-50. With ARC on both units I would expect that to still be true.
> 
> 
> The inability, in the past, to get ARC for the AVM-50 was, indeed, a significant factor pushing people towards the D2. So in that regard the gap has been narrowed. But the D2 is still a better sounding unit.
> 
> --Bob



Interesting. It would then come down, then, to whether you thought the D2 sounded enough better than the AVM50 to justify the $1k or so (which is probably what it comes down to with many people in any case). In the high-end audio world it seems to me this cost/benefit analysis goes on all the time, with increasingly big dollars buying increasingly small benefits.


In my case, I bought the D2 after having a DOA AVM50 and the dealer having only a single D2 in stock as a replacement (and willing to give me a great deal on the D2). An AVM 50 with ARC would be a good deal relative to the D2, but no better to me than the AVM 50 v. D2 deal when I bought the D2 - and my original AVM50 (I did not know anything about ARC at that time, but it did help me to rationalize the extra $$ for the D2 after the fact).


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14207663
> 
> 
> ......ARC only checks to see if the attached microphone identifies itself over the USB cable as an "ARC-1" microphone -- *ANY* ARC-1 microphone. If so, the ARC application will blithely use that microphone in conjunction with the licensing and calibration files that match (by serial #) to the D2 currently connected on the serial cable EVEN IF YOU HAPPEN TO HAVE THE WRONG ARC MIC CONNECTED!
> 
> 
> --Bob



Now I am beginning to worry whether Anthem has packed the correct mic with my disc when they shipped the packaged over to me!







I would be blithely listening to a less than accurate correction.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14214046
> 
> 
> Now I am beginning to worry whether Anthem has packed the correct mic with my disc when they shipped the packaged over to me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would be blithely listening to a less than accurate correction.
> 
> -Ben



The microphone serial # is currently included as a sticky label on the small, protective box in which the microphone is shipped.


Compare that serial # to the one that is included as part of the file name of your 2 licensing and calibration files (from the ARC install CD). The other part of the filename for those 2 files will be the serial # of your D2.


If the mic serial # portion of the file names matches the sticky label on the protective microphone box, and if you haven't received more than 1 ARC mic (where you might have mixed them up yourself), then you are good to go.


Worrying that Anthem might have mixed up the naming of the calibration files at their end, or put the wrong mic in your sticky labeled box, or the wrong label on the box, is at the same order of probability as that they screwed up the measurement process by which those calibration files are produced. I.e., it could happen, of course, but don't lose sleep over it.


------------------------------------------


This is primarily a problem for INSTALLERS who are handling different ARC mics for multiple customers.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/14212203
> 
> 
> Since I had the AVM 20 upgraded to the AVM 20-HD, I thought it was equivalent to an AVM 50. I'm hoping this is the case. I'm also glad to hear that this sounds like a field upgrade. I really don't want to send my AVM 20-HD across the border again!
> 
> 
> Buddy



I would think so but this would need to be confirmed.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14212422
> 
> 
> Seems like Anthem is closing the GAP on the AVM-50 and the D2, seems like one of two things will happen.
> 
> 
> 1. The D2 will get an upgrade also, to keep it special or
> 
> 
> 2. The D2 will go out of production soon, as maybe a new product is on the way.



The DAC and audio improvement (better power supply, better analogue stage) alone are wothed the extract cost.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14213641
> 
> 
> Interesting. It would then come down, then, to whether you thought the D2 sounded enough better than the AVM50 to justify the $1k or so (which is probably what it comes down to with many people in any case). In the high-end audio world it seems to me this cost/benefit analysis goes on all the time, with increasingly big dollars buying increasingly small benefits.
> 
> 
> In my case, I bought the D2 after having a DOA AVM50 and the dealer having only a single D2 in stock as a replacement (and willing to give me a great deal on the D2). An AVM 50 with ARC would be a good deal relative to the D2, but no better to me than the AVM 50 v. D2 deal when I bought the D2 - and my original AVM50 (I did not know anything about ARC at that time, but it did help me to rationalize the extra $$ for the D2 after the fact).



When we spend ?000$ for small benefits the last thing you want to do is cost benefits analysis.


----------



## jayray

Do the DACs do upsampling on the pcm from BD players?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2 accepts up to 96KHz LPCM input. It then upsamples that to 192KHz. The rest of its processing is done at 192KHz. The DACs convert from that 192KHz digital signal to analog audio for output.


The AVM-50 accepts up to 96KHz and upsamples anything less than that to 96KHz. Its DACs convert from 96KHz to analog audio for output.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I have read the literature on upsampling in the D2. I have a big room, with very good speakers and an A2, A5 amp combo. I am a stickler for sound so I will ask the $64,000 question or maybe $3-4k for upgrade question, how easy is it to tell the difference b/t DAC in the AVM50 vs. the D2. This could be the deal breaker









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14215084
> 
> 
> I have read the literature on upsampling in the D2. I have a big room, with very good speakers and an A2, A5 amp combo. I am a stickler for sound so I will ask the $64,000 question or maybe $3-4k for upgrade question, how easy is it to tell the difference b/t DAC in the AVM50 vs. the D2. This could be the deal breaker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Only you can answer that. Get your dealer to loan you a D2 and try it.


The AVM-50 is no slouch in the audio department, but every post I can recall in this thread where there was a comparison, even the folks who decided to go with the AVM-50 said they thought the D2 sounded better.


However it is always hard to know how much of that is just "listener expectations".

--Bob


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14215140
> 
> 
> perhaps a better question would be, of the many contributors to this thread, those who have gone from the AVM50 to D2 could you let me know what your impressions were. I realize our perceptions can be different but your feedback would help.
> 
> John



I just upgraded to the D2 from a AVM50 so I could get the ARC. Do I believe there is a difference in sound quality...Absolutely.


What I don't know or can't say for sure is, did the improvement come from the addition of ARC, the D2 or the combination of the D2+ARC. Unfortunately I didn't do any listening with just the D2 I was way to impatient to get at the ARC.


I believe adding the ARC to the AVM50 will make selecting the D2 vs the AVM50 a lot harder for some purchasers, thats approx. 4k$ that could go toward other equipment, better speakers or even a 2nd AVM50. But then I may feel this way simply because I originally purchased an AVM50.


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I will try to listen to some familiar music at my dealer. He has the same speakers as I have at home but he uses the p2 and p5 amps. Don't think they will make a diff over my A2 and A5. Will take some movies as well. I know it is diff to articulate some of the differences so you're probably right to sample at the dealer. Don't think he has run ARC yet









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/14215459
> 
> 
> I just upgraded to the D2 from a AVM50 so I could get the ARC. Do I believe there is a difference in sound quality...Absolutely.
> 
> 
> What I don't know or can't say for sure is, did the improvement come from the addition of ARC, the D2 or the combination of the D2+ARC. Unfortunately I didn't do any listening with just the D2 I was way to impatient to get at the ARC.
> 
> 
> I believe adding the ARC to the AVM50 will make selecting the D2 vs the AVM50 a lot harder for some purchasers, thats approx. 4k$ that could go toward other equipment, better speakers or even a 2nd AVM50. But then I may feel this way simply because I originally purchased an AVM50.



It won't cost me to audition it at my dealer and could be alot of fun. I know that impatience thing too










John


ps. I removed my second question while you and Bob were responding. Thought it might be irritating for some.


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14215488
> 
> 
> It won't cost me to audition it at my dealer and could be alot of fun. I know that impatience thing too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> ps. I removed my second question while you and Bob were responding. Thought it might be irritating for some.



I wondered if I had been ARC'd into another dimension there for a moment....


----------



## yacht422

walt here: question! i have 4 way towers, with a pair of 8" woofers in each.


do i want to use the factory settings for the speakers to be set at (small ) or (large) prior to running arc.

today, at last i am ready.

thx

walt


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/14215532
> 
> 
> I wondered if I had been ARC'd into another dimension there for a moment....



Good one







Noticed your speaker setup, same fronts and sub, slightly diff centre. How do things sound on your system since it is identical for stereo, which I prefer for music.

John


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/14215459
> 
> 
> What I don't know or can't say for sure is, did the improvement come from the addition of ARC, the D2 or the combination of the D2+ARC. Unfortunately I didn't do any listening with just the D2 I was way to impatient to get at the ARC.



Is it not possible to simply toggle the ARC EQ off/on as you're listening so that you can easily see the before/after difference?


I'm new to room EQ in receivers/pre-pro's but I would have figured they all had a quick/simple way to toggle it on/off as that's the sort of thing that the sales guys can show off in the showroom to "prove" to people (true or not) that they "need" EQ.


Kal


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/14215815
> 
> 
> Is it not possible to simply toggle the ARC EQ off/on as you're listening so that you can easily see the before/after difference?
> 
> 
> I'm new to room EQ in receivers/pre-pro's but I would have figured they all had a quick/simple way to toggle it on/off as that's the sort of thing that the sales guys can show off in the showroom to "prove" to people (true or not) that they "need" EQ.
> 
> 
> Kal



Well, it is pretty easy if you go to the Source SetUp while playing the input. There you can toggle ARC on/off and/or toggle Music/MovieEQ and A/B as you want to.


The other Kal.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You can easily A/B whether the ROOM CORRECTION part of the processing is engaged but you can not easily A/B the changes ARC made in cross overs and speaker levels as part of its setup, nor the fact that using ARC disengages other parts of the D2's audio processing that you might have used in a manual setup -- such as the Room Resonance Filter.


As has been noted here, ARC tends to overlap cross overs, which presumably makes it easier for them to implement room correction in the range of the cross over frequencies as cuts in volume -- which are easier on the system than trying to boost dips. I.e., the overlap produces hotter audio in the vicinity of the cross over so more of the things that need to be corrected are peaks instead of dips.


And THAT means that if you simply turn Room EQ = OFF you will be getting results that are biased by the overlapped cross over settings and the particular speaker levels that ARC used -- i.e., without the benefit of the compensating cuts the room correction processing would have applied. This may very well make the audio sound worse than it could with Room EQ = OFF and a properly detailed manual setup.


----------------------------------------------------


You could do the following:


1) Do a manual audio calibration to get the best you can get by other means as regards speaker levels, speaker cross overs, Room Resonance Filter, Center EQ, speaker distances and subwoofer Polarity and Phase and whether or not it is THX Ultra2 with Boundary Gain Compensation needed. You will need the speaker distances and subwoofer Polarity and Phase for use with ARC anyway so that part is not additional work. WRITE DOWN YOUR SETTINGS.


2) Run ARC and tell it you want your Movie and Music configuration to be the same. Upload those ARC results.


3) Set up a Source to use the Movie configuration and to have Room EQ = ON. That will make it use the cross overs, levels, and room correction parameters ARC calculates, plus the speaker distances and subwoofer Polarity and Phase that you set up manually. The Room Resonance Filter, Center EQ, and subwoofer THX Ultra 2 and Boundary Gain Compensation settings will be ignored.


4) Go into Setup / Speaker Configuration and change the Music Configuration to be different from the Movie Configuration, but using all the same speakers. Manually enter the cross over values that you wrote down from step 1 into your Music Configuration. [LEAVE THE MOVIE CONFIGURATION UNCHANGED!] Also enter your Room Resonance Filter, Center EQ, and subwoofer Polarity/Phase/THXUltra2/BoundaryGainCompensation settings as necessary, i.e., if they are not already in your Music Configuration. Your speaker distance settings are shared with the Movie Configuration so there's no change needed there.


5) Set up another Source to use the Music configuration and to have Room EQ = OFF. That will disengage the ARC room correction processing and will re-engage the Room Resonance Filter, Center EQ, and subwoofer THX Ultra 2 and Boundary Gain Compensation. In addition, the cross overs will be the ones you just set manually.


6) Now go into Setup / Speaker Calibration. The levels in there are the ones set by the Upload of ARC results. There is no mechanism to provide distinct levels for Movie and Music configurations. Compare the levels that ARC set to the ones you wrote down from your manual setup in step (1) above. If they are different, measure the levels ARC set up with your SPL meter to see how well they will work with your Music configuration. If they appear out of whack, your only choice for a true comparison will be to change them manually when doing the A/B. You MIGHT be able to avoid this by using the "temporary" speaker level adjustments (via the remote control) which are remembered separately for each Source, but this may not produce precisely the same results as changing the settings in Setup / Speaker Calibration.


7) Make sure both of these Sources are set to use the same audio processing mode for the test content you will be playing (i.e., PLIIx or THX or whatever). Now you can A/B by switching between the Source you have set up to use Movie configuration with Room EQ = ON and the Source you have set up to use Music configuration with Room EQ = OFF. (And as stated in step (6), you may also need to adjust speaker levels between them.)


===================================


There is, of course, a much easier approach presuming you are willing to forego instant gratification:


A) Do *NOT* run ARC yet. Set up your D2 to produce the best audio you can by whatever means you have available other than ARC.


B) Listen to your system for, oh several months. Constantly refining your audio setup as necessary to get the best you can out of the system. Be serious here. Try to set it up right.


C) After you are well familiar with how that sounds, *NOW* run ARC. If your first 15 minutes of listening after running ARC doesn't convince you ARC is the cat's pajamas then there is something wrong in the way you did your ARC measurements or upload, or you forgot to turn Room EQ = ON for your Sources.


I mean really. For the folks here who haven't had problems getting ARC to run correctly -- which is by far the majority of the posters here -- the wildly positive comments are far and away the norm.

--Bob


----------



## im the man

Just received my arc today. I'll have to say is wow, I am really impressed with this device it really has made a big difference in my system. Although, I must admit I don't think I had my D2 properly set up in the first place, but this takes all the guess work out of it. This is by far the best DOLLAR for DOLLAR upgrade I have ever made in my system!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We're going to have to start another assembly line for these:







































--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *im the man* /forum/post/14218342
> 
> 
> Just received my arc today. I'll have to say is wow, I am really impressed with this device it really has made a big difference in my system. Although, I must admit I don't think I had my D2 properly set up in the first place, but this takes all the guess work out of it. This is by far the best DOLLAR for DOLLAR upgrade I have ever made in my system!



This is a really good point. There are peoples who may not want to spent too much time and effort uptomizing their system. The ARC is quick way of doing this.


----------



## The Bogg

I think it's time for me to pull the trigger on the ARC upgrade. Warm up the smiley incubator!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14219234
> 
> 
> I think it's time for me to pull the trigger on the ARC upgrade. Warm up the smiley incubator!



Congratulation!


----------



## cpcat

OK, the ARC upgrade for the AVM50 has tweaked my curiosity. Here's what I'd like to know:


Will ARC work for 2-channel as well as 5.1 and 7.1?


I actually have technically a 7.0 system. I have dual Vandersteen 2wq subs passively crossed over to my mains. Any reason ARC won't work (or be less effective) for this configuration?


Will the DSP upgrade change the current way the AVM50 is redigitizing its analog input? I'm happy with the way it sounds now and I've heard at least one D2 owner say the redigitized sound is degraded somewhat compared to HDMI LPCM.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14218510
> 
> 
> This is a really good point. There are peoples who may not want to spent too much time and effort uptomizing their system. The ARC is quick way of doing this.



Yes, and even people like me who HAVE spent a lot of time and effort tweaking their systems manually will STILL get better results with ARC. I have spent many hours and days with test tones, sweep software, external sound cards and laptops, BFD etc., and ARC not only does it easier, but BETTER. I continue to be very impressed with my results, and I am a recovering EQ tweakaholic!


----------



## MDRbone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14209847
> 
> 
> More news on ARC for the AVM units from "a usually reliable source":
> 
> 
> It will soon (a couple weeks) be possible to order a new AVM-40 or AVM-50 with ARC bundled. The bundle will include the ARC kit (as used with the D2) plus an additional DSP hardware upgrade in the AVM. The bundle pricing is not yet available, but the word I have is that it will attractively priced. It will ALSO still be possible to order a new AVM-40 or AVM-50 without ARC or the 2nd DSP if you prefer.
> 
> 
> About 2 weeks or so after AVM-40 and AVM-50 bundles can be ordered, current AVM-40 and AVM-50 owners will be able to order ARC upgrade kits that bundle the normal ARC kit with an AVM DSP upgrade.
> 
> 
> THE DSP UPGRADE WILL BE FIELD (DEALER) INSTALLABLE!
> 
> 
> Pricing will be right around $800. I.e., $400 for the ARC kit as sold to D2 customers plus $400 for the DSP upgrade.
> 
> 
> I believe this info to be accurate, but the dates may still slip a bit.
> 
> --Bob



Am I correct in assuming that Anthem might offer a bundle for units such as the AVM-30, to include the VP upgrade along with the DSP/ARC? I've been patiently waiting for the arrival of the HDMI 1.3 upgrade, but would be enthusiastic about adding the ARC at the same time.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MDRbone* /forum/post/14220271
> 
> 
> Am I correct in assuming that Anthem might offer a bundle for units such as the AVM-30, to include the VP upgrade along with the DSP/ARC? I've been patiently waiting for the arrival of the HDMI 1.3 upgrade, but would be enthusiastic about adding the ARC at the same time.



Is there an HDMI 1.3 upgrade coming? I haven't heard anything official. I just want 7.1 LPCM over HDMI.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MDRbone* /forum/post/14220271
> 
> 
> Am I correct in assuming that Anthem might offer a bundle for units such as the AVM-30, to include the VP upgrade along with the DSP/ARC? I've been patiently waiting for the arrival of the HDMI 1.3 upgrade, but would be enthusiastic about adding the ARC at the same time.



As far as I know, upgrading to add a video board (either the current one or something that might come out in the future) still will require returning the unit to the factory. But I see no reason why they couldn't add the DSP change at the same time. Whether they offer special pricing for that is another thing. I doubt it. It looks like the DSP upgrade is pretty aggressively priced to begin with.


Also, if and when Anthem does come out with a new video board odds are they will also change to 7.1 input. That's a pretty significant change affecting almost the entire product. I'm not at all sure it can be done as an upgrade. I suspect it would more likely be a "trade in" situation. Whether the factory is willing to accept old units in trade, or whether they will expect that to be done through the dealers (i.e., with the dealer taking the risk of reselling the old unit) I don't know.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14220332
> 
> 
> Is there an HDMI 1.3 upgrade coming? I haven't heard anything official. I just want 7.1 LPCM over HDMI.



Starting a little over a month ago there have been some posts in this thread (LEVESQUE started it!) and in another thread here (the "D3?" thread) that a follow-on to the D2 is coming. So far, there has been no mention of 7.1 input as part of that, although I agree it would be surprising if Anthem didn't include that.


HOWEVER, I have not been able to get any sort of confirmation that such a thing would be available anytime soon. The only comment I've managed to extract so far is that, "The details being posted in AVS are wrong."

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/14219665
> 
> 
> OK, the ARC upgrade for the AVM50 has tweaked my curiosity. Here's what I'd like to know:
> 
> 
> Will ARC work for 2-channel as well as 5.1 and 7.1?
> 
> 
> I actually have technically a 7.0 system. I have dual Vandersteen 2wq subs passively crossed over to my mains. Any reason ARC won't work (or be less effective) for this configuration?
> 
> 
> Will the DSP upgrade change the current way the AVM50 is redigitizing its analog input? I'm happy with the way it sounds now and I've heard at least one D2 owner say the redigitized sound is degraded somewhat compared to HDMI LPCM.



Room effects alter the audio you hear from each speaker, and that's what ARC works to correct. ARC applies correction individually to each speaker. Not only would it help 2 channel input, but even mono input.


If you have a subwoofer, ARC takes into account the cross overs and any audio that will be steered to the subwoofer. The transition of bass through the cross over is much cleaner.


If you don't have a subwoofer, the D2 steers bass to the large front speakers from the center speaker or surrounds. Again ARC takes the cross overs into account.


But even if there is no bass to be steered (i.e., no center channel or surround channel input), ARC's measurements correct each speaker individually.


-----------------------------------------------


ARC's processing has nothing to do with the digitizing of analog audio inputs. The nature of the digitizing is not changed.


ARC acts on digitized audio before it goes to the analog output stage. If you are using "Direct" analog pass through for an input, ARC can not help with that input. Analog input audio has to be digitized (processed) for ARC to take effect.

--Bob


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14220432
> 
> 
> ARC's processing has nothing to do with the digitizing of analog audio inputs. The nature of the digitizing is not changed.
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks.


So then the DSP upgrade to the AVM50 should not alter the initial redigitization of analog in any way, correct?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/14220728
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> So then the DSP upgrade to the AVM50 should not alter the initial redigitization of analog in any way, correct?



That is my understanding.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/14219752
> 
> 
> I am a recovering EQ tweakaholic!



The ARC is your medecine.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14220392
> 
> 
> Starting a little over a month ago there have been some posts in this thread (LEVESQUE started it!) and in another thread here (the "D3?" thread) that a follow-on to the D2 is coming. So far, there has been no mention of 7.1 input as part of that, although I agree it would be surprising if Anthem didn't include that.
> 
> 
> HOWEVER, I have not been able to get any sort of confirmation that such a thing would be available anytime soon. The only comment I've managed to extract so far is that, "The details being posted in AVS are wrong."
> 
> --Bob



Well, put me first in line to buy a D2 with LPCM 7.1 over HDMI capability. I don't care about bitstreaming the HD formats, although that's a pleasant plus.


And I'll buy 2 if they call it R2D2! Or even D2R2.


I so badly want a D2, but I can't do it without 7.1 over HDMI.


----------



## im the man

Need help. I have the arc it was working fine yesterday but today for some reason today I am getting messages on my screen saying, "HDMI Video Muted Need HDCP Monitor" then the screen flashes in and out several times, it does this repeatdly. It does it when Im playing DVD's Marantz player, XBOX 360, and PS3. Any help will be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.


----------



## Summit HDTV

Hi All,


Great thread. I just ordered the ARC for my personal D1 yesterday and will add comments on it after install. Although I tend to pay more attention to video this looks like a great upgrade.


I upgraded the firmware today to v1.33 and only had a couple hitches. The first hitch was the blue screen of death on my laptop near the beginning of the firmware upgrade process. Ugh. I thought maybe the D1 was bricked since it wouldn't turn on anymore. A couple more tries and same result - no satisfaction. Then I switched to my backup laptop and the install went without a hitch. Then I discovered I lost the S VIDEO D1 main output, though composite still worked. A call into Anthem tech support and another install of v1.33 yielded joy! Everything works as expected. I'm not sure if this was posted, but sometimes the S VIDEO output isn't correctly recognized hence no SVID output. Another firmware install corrects the problem.


Happy 4th!


Cheers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *im the man* /forum/post/14222334
> 
> 
> Need help. I have the arc it was working fine yesterday but today for some reason today I am getting messages on my screen saying, "HDMI Video Muted Need HDCP Monitor" then the screen flashes in and out several times, it does this repeatdly. It does it when Im playing DVD's Marantz player, XBOX 360, and PS3. Any help will be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.



This is not related to ARC.


You are having Copy Protection problems in the HDMI handshake between the Anthem and the display (most likely since it effects multiple sources) or between the Anthem and the sources (less likely).


First steps. Power down everything. In addition, turn off the Anthem using its back panel switch. Now gently reseat your HDMI plugs (both ends). The most likely issue is that a plug has come a little loose in the socket. This is particularly likely if you reached around back there to attach and detach the serial connection for your ARC setup.


Now power up and see if things work better.


If that doesn't do it, consider what might have changed related to cabling since it last worked correctly.


------------------------------------------------


If you just recently updated to a V1.3x software version in your D2, understand that its current HDMI implementation takes a lot longer to sync up properly when you select a new source or change video resolutions from the same source. Maybe 10 seconds or so.


Anthem is working on new HDMI code that reduces this back down to a more reasonable 2 seconds.


Basically the current HDMI implementation is doing a lot more retries than it really should have to do.

--Bob


----------



## im the man

Thank you very much Bob.


----------



## ANSEK

Is there a child lock feature for the D2 which will enable the D2 to not respond when buttons on front panel are depressed? I have my 14 month old niece visiting and she loves banging on the D2. Plus my little two month old will be crawling in the next four months.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/14226773
> 
> 
> Is there a child lock feature for the D2 which will enable the D2 to not respond when buttons on front panel are depressed? I have my 14 month old niece visiting and she loves banging on the D2. Plus my little two month old will be crawling in the next four months.



Not that I know of. I guess if you could place it so that's not in the range of your niece and your two month old that would be best. However, if you don't have a choice but to leave it where it's at, then you can turn the power switch on the back of the unit off.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/14226773
> 
> 
> Is there a child lock feature for the D2 which will enable the D2 to not respond when buttons on front panel are depressed? I have my 14 month old niece visiting and she loves banging on the D2. Plus my little two month old will be crawling in the next four months.



Only 14 months old and she already appreciates good equipment!


You can put a password on the Setup menu settings. See Section 3.14 of the manual. But that's about it.


There's no setting that will prevent her from being able to turn on the D2 for example. Turning off the back panel power switch would be wise if you can't protect the D2 behind a cabinet door with a child lock.


------------------------------------


Watch out for your Blu-Ray player as well lest you discover one day that a jelly sandwich has been inserted into it.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand

I upgraded my Sony PS3 software the other night, and when we tried to watch a Blu-ray movie tonight I had problems. At first there was no video, then I played with the PS3 settings, and got video, but no audio. Now I can't get audio from anything, and the D2 is acting weird and responding real slow to commands, and acting frozen at times. I even tried playing a CD, and the D2 says "No Audio Input" when you toggle to what is coming in to it. A power off has not seemed to solve it either. I guess I need to reload my software v. 1.33? Prior to this I upgraded to ARC a week ago, and everything was running great. Could the new PS3 software have caused this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No. The new PS3 software could not cause this.


Try power cycling the D2 with both the remote AND its rear power button. Also check that you didn't accidentally knock any of the cables loose in the course of doing other stuff.


Finally, many early buyers are getting to the point where the batteries in their D2 remote are just now wearing out. Sluggish D2 response could simply mean you need to change the batteries in your remote.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14227784
> 
> 
> No. The new PS3 software could not cause this.
> 
> 
> Try power cycling the D2 with both the remote AND its rear power button. Also check that you didn't accidentally knock any of the cables loose in the course of doing other stuff.
> 
> 
> Finally, many early buyers are getting to the point where the batteries in their D2 remote are just now wearing out. Sluggish D2 response could simply mean you need to change the batteries in your remote.
> 
> --Bob



Why do you say that? Sony officially recalled the 2.40 software update due to undisclosed problems. I think it's at least possible the PS3 update created these problems.


----------



## mlbrand

Bob,


My remote batteries are fine, the D2 was even sluggish when using the buttons on the front. I checked the cables, all are in and firmly connected. I can't get audio from anything I have connected, whether it's HDMI or optical it doesn't seem to matter (audio input = "no signal") and the D2 gets sluggish when I start changing anything in the setup menus related to audio. I did try turning the D2 off with the rear power button, and it did not help. I think I need to reload 1.33 unless you have any other ideas.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

First do a Reload Factory Defaults and see if things are still sluggish using the front panel buttons. (I'm assuming you already have Saved User Settings that are current.)


If they are, then yes a reload of V1.33 would be a good next step.


Sluggish response could indicate something going on which is causing one of the internal processors to crash and restart repeatedly -- perhaps a memory problem. A reload of the system software might cure whatever has gotten corrupted.


Also try removing wall power from all of your attached sources, amps and your display to make sure there isn't some unusual voltage or signal coming in to the D2. Check for sluggishness by observing the D2 front panel.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14227839
> 
> 
> Why do you say that? Sony officially recalled the 2.40 software update due to undisclosed problems. I think it's at least possible the PS3 update created these problems.



I don't believe it possible that the range of symptoms he described could be caused by anything the PS3 could do over that HDMI connection.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14227862
> 
> 
> First do a Reload Factory Defaults and see if things are still sluggish using the front panel buttons. (I'm assuming you already have Saved User Settings that are current.)
> 
> 
> If they are, then yes a reload of V1.33 would be a good next step.
> 
> 
> Sluggish response could indicate something going on which is causing one of the internal processors to crash and restart repeatedly -- perhaps a memory problem. A reload of the system software might cure whatever has gotten corrupted.
> 
> 
> Also try removing wall power from all of your attached sources, amps and your display to make sure there isn't some unusual voltage or signal coming in to the D2. Check for sluggishness by observing the D2 front panel.
> 
> --Bob



This is not looking good. I tried reloading the factory defaults, and no change. So I tried re-installing 1.33, and I'm getting error messages, first it says "failed to switch to 115200 kbs", and then I get another message that says "failed to exit debug mode". I re-tried several times with no change. What do I do from here?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/14228010
> 
> 
> This is not looking good. I tried reloading the factory defaults, and no change. So I tried re-installing 1.33, and I'm getting error messages, first it says "failed to switch to 115200 kbs", and then I get another message that says "failed to exit debug mode". I re-tried several times with no change. What do I do from here?



Give Anthem tech support a call on Monday. They will likely have you run the "Flash Eraser" Windows PC program which erases the programmable memories in the D2 and leaves it in a state where it can take a fresh install of V1.33. If your problem is a corrupted install of the system software this will fix it.


I take it you also tried my suggestion to remove power from everything else already, right?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Just hooked up my Arcam DVD which I use for CD as well. I setup the dvd inputs and it works fine. 96kHz discs are output fine. Howeverk, for CD, I hooked up the two analog outs to the AVM50 CD in. When I select CD and hit select on the remote it displays 48kHz in and out. If the same disc is played using the DVD settings which use optical out, 96k is displayed as in and out. The player was set to output bitstream 96kHz in it's setup menu. Is there anything in the Anthem that is preventing proper output of this frequency?

John


----------



## EAnderson

UH-OH! Sounds like the same issues I had a week ago. I'd call Anthem; Nick or Pierro. They will probably tell you to deinstall then reinstall the driver for your serial to usb adapter(hopefully you have "their" recommended Key-Span adapter). Then remove the current v1.33 from your computer then re-download from their site v1.33, try to upload to your D2. If that does'nt work, they may recommend running the Flash Eraser program from their password protected tech site. I would run this program several times(5-6) then try to reload the current v1.33. This should work, if not, you'll probably have to return your unit to Anthem. The above worked for me and I hope it'll work for you as well. The guys at Anthem know what they are doing and they will do their best to help you in your time of need. Good-Luck and let us know how it turns out.


Eric

P.S. Also, make sure any powered HDMI sources/cables are disconnected, not just turned off.


----------



## muad'dib

Hello..



My buddy has a D2, and is using a cd player with Balanced outputs feed into the D2..


He chose the 2-ch input for these connections..


If you used the Analogue direct, the sound is fine, but, if you uses the Analogue DSP (to use dsp functions of D2), the sound is distorted..


Any suggestions???



I will be going over tomorrow to see what I can do, and think maybe the INPUT GAINS adjustments might be the solution?


Thanx..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14228277
> 
> 
> Just hooked up my Arcam DVD which I use for CD as well. I setup the dvd inputs and it works fine. 96kHz discs are output fine. Howeverk, for CD, I hooked up the two analog outs to the AVM50 CD in. When I select CD and hit select on the remote it displays 48kHz in and out. If the same disc is played using the DVD settings which use optical out, 96k is displayed as in and out. The player was set to output bitstream 96kHz in it's setup menu. Is there anything in the Anthem that is preventing proper output of this frequency?
> 
> John



Where are you seeing 48KHz? If the input is analog there should not be a sampling rate displayed. Sampling rate is a characteristic of a digital audio signal.


Are you sure you don't have Setup / Source Setup / Auto Dig = ON set, which would cause that Source setting to use its digital input if there is audio present on that digital input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/14228511
> 
> 
> I will be going over tomorrow to see what I can do, and think maybe the INPUT GAINS adjustments might be the solution?



Yes that sounds likely.


There is, normally, a 6dB volume (voltage) difference between RCA and XLR connections. He might need to make a setting change on his player's outputs to get the XLR outputs into that normal range. The input adjustment in the D2 would be the next best place to make that adjustment.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14228565
> 
> 
> Yes that sounds likely.
> 
> 
> There is, normally, a 6dB volume (voltage) difference between RCA and XLR connections. He might need to make a setting change on his player's outputs to get the XLR outputs into that normal range. The input adjustment in the D2 would be the next best place to make that adjustment.
> 
> --Bob



WOW!!







Thanx for very quick responce Bob!!

















Thanks.. Will check to player, then at last resort do the change in D2..



So from what you are saying, this sounds normal them for balanced connections??


Thanks


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I just ran the ARC for the 6th time in my 15 days of ownership.

The more I learn, the more I improve, the more I love it.

Here is one screenshot of my 2 front speakers measurements.

See how the right is largely corrected whereas the left corrected curve is mostly following the measured curve (at 1.5K up).

Is it ok?


Thanks


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14228187
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call on Monday. They will likely have you run the "Flash Eraser" Windows PC program which erases the programmable memories in the D2 and leaves it in a state where it can take a fresh install of V1.33. If your problem is a corrupted install of the system software this will fix it.
> 
> 
> I take it you also tried my suggestion to remove power from everything else already, right?
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I did remove power and disconnect all HDMI sources. I was thinking the flash eraser might be my next step, and I hope that works, cause I don't want to have to ship it in.







Oh well, my D2 has been rock solid from day one (two years), so I guess it's my turn for a bug, though it's ironic that I have an audio bug and my video still works great.







What really sucks is that I'm heading off for a week long trip this early A.M., and won't be able to work on it until next Saturday evening, but I get to think about it all week! Maybe Anthem tech support can send me the file and info needed so I can get it going next weekend? Thanks for all the help Bob, I will let you know how things go when I get back.


----------



## barhoram

After running ARC and downloading to the D2, is there a way for ARC to graph the acutual "corrected' sound instead of calculated?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14228881
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I just ran the ARC for the 6th time in my 15 days of ownership.
> 
> The more I learn, the more I improve, the more I love it.
> 
> Here is one screenshot of my 2 front speakers measurements.
> 
> See how the right is largely corrected whereas the left corrected curve is mostly following the measured curve (at 1.5K up).
> 
> Is it ok?
> 
> 
> Thanks



You could send your ARC file to Anthem tech support and ask them that. My guess would be that ARC decided its correction resources were better spent on some other problem in your measurements. It looks like you may be running your LF and RF speakers "large". Do you have a decent subwoofer? If so, try running the LF and RF speakers "small" even though they are capable of reproducing full range. ARC won't have to correct them as far down into the bass frequencies and that may free up more correction resource for the range up towards 5KHz.


I don't actually know how ARC allocates its correction resources, so this is just a guess.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/14228939
> 
> 
> Yes, I did remove power and disconnect all HDMI sources. I was thinking the flash eraser might be my next step, and I hope that works, cause I don't want to have to ship it in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, my D2 has been rock solid from day one (two years), so I guess it's my turn for a bug, though it's ironic that I have an audio bug and my video still works great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What really sucks is that I'm heading off for a week long trip this early A.M., and won't be able to work on it until next Saturday evening, but I get to think about it all week! Maybe Anthem tech support can send me the file and info needed so I can get it going next weekend? Thanks for all the help Bob, I will let you know how things go when I get back.



The Flash Eraser is on the password protected download site. So they just have to point you at that.


But as usual, I recommend people do NOT use Flash Eraser until instructed to do so by Anthem tech support because it may wipe out important clues they can use to figure out what happened -- i.e., to keep it from happening again.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14229644
> 
> 
> After running ARC and downloading to the D2, is there a way for ARC to graph the acutual "corrected' sound instead of calculated?



No there is not. Anthem deliberately left that out as they feared they'd get too many tech support calls from people who didn't realize that some variation will naturally remain according to the precise re-positioning of the mic when you do that. Also the curves they show represent "averages" across the set of mic positions whereas a re-measure probably wouldn't do that.


I've suggested to Nick at Anthem that they add the ability to do an "actual corrected" set of charts for a single mic position anyway, and WITHOUT trying to associated it with the Calculated results -- which represent an average expected result for the set of mic measurement positions.


Then you could do your Measurements and Calculations based on your normal set of mic positions, Upload that, and finally do a test measurement at ANY mic position (without trying to duplicate a measurement position) and see what you get. They would need to clearly explain in the manual that variations from the Calculated curve are normal and expected when you do that.


Even better would be if they could run TWO curves for each speaker at that test mic position -- one with the Room Correction turned on and one with it turned off. That would show the degree to which Room Correction is actually helping at that mic position.


[But as I posted a ways back, this is *NOT* the same as comparing the best ARC can do with the best you might do manually WITHOUT ARC since the Room EQ = OFF curve in such a measurement should probably still be done with things like the Room Resonance Filter disabled -- since any prior settings you made for that are probably incorrect after ARC adjusts your cross overs.]

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14228552
> 
> 
> Where are you seeing 48KHz? If the input is analog there should not be a sampling rate displayed. Sampling rate is a characteristic of a digital audio signal.
> 
> 
> Are you sure you don't have Setup / Source Setup / Auto Dig = ON set, which would cause that Source setting to use its digital input if there is audio present on that digital input.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

when I go into Setup / Source Setup for CD, there is no Auto Dig choice. The other question is does it make a diff whether I use the digial in instead of the analog?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14230192
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> when I go into Setup / Source Setup for CD, there is no Auto Dig choice. The other question is does it make a diff whether I use the digial in instead of the analog?
> 
> John



Urh, it's SUPPOSED to be in there! You sure you are in Setup menu "6a"? It's line "h" in that menu (D2 V1.33 software).


The data coming off the CD is 2 channel PCM (digital audio). Personally I recommend you use digital audio to the D2 for CD listening.


Some folks with exotic CD players like the way their player converts the digital audio off the CD to analog. If you are in that boat, then you should try using analog audio to the D2 with ANALOG-DIRECT set so that the D2 just passes that through without digitizing it. However that means you will get no processing in the D2 including bass steering or ARC while doing that.


If you want processing in the D2 (ANALOG-DSP) then the D2 has to digitize the analog audio input, process it, and then convert it back to analog again. This pretty much negates any advantage you might feel the CD player has in the way IT converts the digital audio off the disc to analog.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,


I have the AVM 50 with 1.33 so I will check again. I have the CD set to analog/dir.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

One of the nice things about ARC is that the improvement in audio for Comcast movies (particularly DD 5.1 movies) helps make up for the damage they are doing to the video -- which is now pretty much across the board on all channels in my market (and made all the more annoying from the fact that Comcast video was of exceptional quality in this market a mere year ago).


[Can't wait for FIOS-TV to bring them some real competition in this market!]


After a few more weeks of use, I've pretty much settled on not using any of the THX post processing for stereo or DD 5.1 Comcast movies, except for the movies that need the THX Equalization portion turned on separately to get the treble level right for the Center channel. And of course I still use Mono-Academy mode when watching older Mono movies (which may actually be broadcast as stereo with the same content on both sides).


If ARC for the AVM-40 and AVM-50 works this well, you AVM owners are in for a nice treat!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14230329
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I have the AVM 50 with 1.33 so I will check again. I have the CD set to analog/dir.
> 
> 
> John



I suppose the new firmware may have blanked out that line when you set ANLG-DIR, since you can't use it with that mode (AUTO DIG switches between your specified digital audio input source jacks and ANLG-DSP mode on the stereo input jacks depending on whether there is any audio actually present on the digital input at the moment).


But back to the original question: Where are you seeing 48KHz sampling rate displayed for the analog input? An analog input doesn't have a sampling rate until it is digitized. That's what makes me think you might ACTUALLY be listening to a digital input without intending to.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

there is no line h in the menu. Still says 48 kHz in while in CD mode even though it is a 96/24 recording. Digital playback says the correct stats but still unsure where the menu went and why outputting in analog still gives me readings.

John


----------



## jayray

Will look to see if I set anything in other menus to affect this. When I press select on the remote it comes up on the front display.

John


----------



## jayray

Bob,


Auto Dig is in the menu but Not Available with Analog Direct. Now on CD it says analog in but 44.1 out when I press Select on the remote. Have gone back an forth with the digital and analog and frankly I would be lying if I said I could tell the diff. So at this point it seems I will stay with CD just for confusions sake.


thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14231103
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Auto Dig is in the menu but Not Available with Analog Direct. Now on CD it says analog in but 44.1 out when I press Select on the remote. Have gone back an forth with the digital and analog and frankly I would be lying if I said I could tell the diff. So at this point it seems I will stay with CD just for confusions sake.
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



OK that makes more sense.


When you use a stereo analog input for any source the default sampling rate for digitizing that (i.e., getting it ready for processing) is 44.1KHz. See Section 3.9 of the Manual.


The Select info entry saying analog input is correct. I suspect the one saying 44.1KHz output is just picking up the default sampling rate without regard to the fact that you have selected ANALOG-DIRECT mode and thus no digitizing actually happens. I.e., that is probably a bug just in what is displayed -- although not in the way the audio is actually being handled. If you get a chance, email what you are seeing there to Nick at Anthem so they can put it on the list to fix in a future update.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Will email him now.

thanks,

John


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14229789
> 
> 
> No there is not. Anthem deliberately left that out as they feared they'd get too many tech support calls from people who didn't realize that some variation will naturally remain according to the precise re-positioning of the mic when you do that. Also the curves they show represent "averages" across the set of mic positions whereas a re-measure probably wouldn't do that.



Wise choice. Yesterday, Jonathan Scull (my weekend guest) and I did a few measurements of ARC on/off with the XTZ Room Analyzer and we found ARC's LF corrections to FR to be significant but the results, while closer to flat, were not entirely flat. However, the LF waterfalls showed a drastic reduction in ringing energy and shorter decays. Not something that every user would see, especially if only FR curves were provided.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14231133
> 
> 
> OK that makes more sense.
> 
> 
> When you use a stereo analog input for any source the default sampling rate for digitizing that (i.e., getting it ready for processing) is 44.1KHz. See Section 3.9 of the Manual.
> 
> 
> The Select info entry saying analog input is correct. I suspect the one saying 44.1KHz output is just picking up the default sampling rate without regard to the fact that you have selected ANALOG-DIRECT mode and thus no digitizing actually happens. I.e., that is probably a bug just in what is displayed -- although not in the way the audio is actually being handled. If you get a chance, email what you are seeing there to Nick at Anthem so they can put it on the list to fix in a future update.
> 
> --Bob



Would that mean when I put in a 96/24 dvd and output through the analog outputs, it will display 44.1 or should it display 96 kHz?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14231613
> 
> 
> Would that mean when I put in a 96/24 dvd and output through the analog outputs, it will display 44.1 or should it display 96 kHz?
> 
> John



As far as the Anthem is concerned, it should display Analog for input, and if you are using ANALOG-DIRECT mode it should display Analog for output.


Again, sampling rate and sample size -- e.g., 96KHz of 24 bit samples -- are characteristics of a DIGITAL audio signal. Once the digital audio signal has been converted to analog, as you are having your player do for output to the Anthem, there is no such thing as digitized sample size or sampling rate any longer. Instead you have the characteristics of an analog audio signal such as frequency response, dynamic range, measures of distortion etc. The Anthem has no way of knowing whether any given input analog signal is accurately representing what it is supposed to play, or has been distorted in the content or in the player, so the Anthem can't tell you any of that. Nor is there any way for the Anthem to learn the characteristics of the DIGITAL audio signal that were used, in the player, to produce that analog audio output. Meanwhile the analog section of the Anthem has its own reproduction specifications that apply to all analog signals, so displaying that also wouldn't tell you anything useful.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14231584
> 
> 
> Wise choice. Yesterday, Jonathan Scull (my weekend guest) and I did a few measurements of ARC on/off with the XTZ Room Analyzer and we found ARC's LF corrections to FR to be significant but the results, while closer to flat, were not entirely flat. However, the LF waterfalls showed a drastic reduction in ringing energy and shorter decays. Not something that every user would see, especially if only FR curves were provided.



Sounds like fun stuff! Are you going to be able to publish those details?

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14232090
> 
> 
> Sounds like fun stuff! Are you going to be able to publish those details?
> 
> --Bob



Working on it.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/14226773
> 
> 
> Is there a child lock feature for the D2 which will enable the D2 to not respond when buttons on front panel are depressed? I have my 14 month old niece visiting and she loves banging on the D2. Plus my little two month old will be crawling in the next four months.



Maybe it's time to hide the equipment and use remote IR cabling. With kids at 14 & 2 months, you have a long way to go to safety and the investment might be worth it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Is Comcast screwing up my HDTV de-interlacing?*


I've been noticing more cases where my D2 incorrectly drops out of film-mode when watching 1080i HDTV movies. The symptom is that there is a second or two of de-interlacing problems and then it corrects. Watching the Film Mode indicator in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel while replaying the scene on my HD-DVR I can actually see the D2 dropping out of film mode when the artifacts appear.


The question is whether something has gotten screwed up in the D2 V1.33 software or whether this is just another consequence of the heavy-handed "re-compression" that Comcast is doing to its channels in my market?


SO: Are others seeing 1080i HDTV de-interlacing issues with the V1.33 software? And if so, is your HDTV feed giving you video that otherwise appears to be undamaged, or is your HDTV provider also screwing up its retransmissions?


How 'bout folks who might be feeding other types of film-based content to the D2 at 1080i such as folks who have decided to use scaling in their SD DVD player instead of sending 480i to the D2? Have you noticed any degradation in 1080i de-interlacing performance with the D2 V1.33 software?


480i de-interlacing performance remains perfect as best I can tell. So if there's an issue here it will be just with 1080i/60 feeds of film-based content into the D2. I'm more than willing to believe it is just Comcast screwing up my HDTV feed, but I thought I'd check with some of the old hands here.


I haven't spotted any issues in 1080i/60 from the PS3 when playing the HQV Blu-Ray test disc. This too would point to Comcast being the source of the problem. But almost all the tests on that disc are video-based, not film based. You have to go into their explanatory section to see clips of film-based scenes.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14231133
> 
> 
> OK that makes more sense.
> 
> 
> When you use a stereo analog input for any source the default sampling rate for digitizing that (i.e., getting it ready for processing) is 44.1KHz. See Section 3.9 of the Manual.
> 
> 
> The Select info entry saying analog input is correct. I suspect the one saying 44.1KHz output is just picking up the default sampling rate without regard to the fact that you have selected ANALOG-DIRECT mode and thus no digitizing actually happens. I.e., that is probably a bug just in what is displayed -- although not in the way the audio is actually being handled. If you get a chance, email what you are seeing there to Nick at Anthem so they can put it on the list to fix in a future update.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Nick said it was a glitch and is now fixed for next firmware update. Should have said for output Analog Direct. Thanks for the suggestion.

John

ps. did you say ARC would not affect this input due to lack of bass management for Aanalog/dir?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14236581
> 
> *Is Comcast screwing up my HDTV de-interlacing?*
> 
> 
> I've been noticing more cases where my D2 incorrectly drops out of film-mode when watching 1080i HDTV movies. The symptom is that there is a second or two of de-interlacing problems and then it corrects. Watching the Film Mode indicator in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel while replaying the scene on my HD-DVR I can actually see the D2 dropping out of film mode when the artifacts appear.
> 
> 
> The question is whether something has gotten screwed up in the D2 V1.33 software or whether this is just another consequence of the heavy-handed "re-compression" that Comcast is doing to its channels in my market?
> 
> 
> SO: Are others seeing 1080i HDTV de-interlacing issues with the V1.33 software? And if so, is your HDTV feed giving you video that otherwise appears to be undamaged, or is your HDTV provider also screwing up its retransmissions?
> 
> 
> How 'bout folks who might be feeding other types of film-based content to the D2 at 1080i such as folks who have decided to use scaling in their SD DVD player instead of sending 480i to the D2? Have you noticed any degradation in 1080i de-interlacing performance with the D2 V1.33 software?
> 
> 
> 480i de-interlacing performance remains perfect as best I can tell. So if there's an issue here it will be just with 1080i/60 feeds of film-based content into the D2. I'm more than willing to believe it is just Comcast screwing up my HDTV feed, but I thought I'd check with some of the old hands here.
> 
> --Bob



Could this have something to do with the increased use of non-standard cadence by video distributors to squeeze in more commercials?


The impact on things like the HQV Reon/Realta are weird judder, as they get confused about the odd cadence coming across.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14236581
> 
> *Is Comcast screwing up my HDTV de-interlacing?*
> 
> 
> I've been noticing more cases where my D2 incorrectly drops out of film-mode when watching 1080i HDTV movies. The symptom is that there is a second or two of de-interlacing problems and then it corrects. Watching the Film Mode indicator in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel while replaying the scene on my HD-DVR I can actually see the D2 dropping out of film mode when the artifacts appear.
> 
> 
> The question is whether something has gotten screwed up in the D2 V1.33 software or whether this is just another consequence of the heavy-handed "re-compression" that Comcast is doing to its channels in my market?
> 
> 
> SO: Are others seeing 1080i HDTV de-interlacing issues with the V1.33 software? And if so, is your HDTV feed giving you video that otherwise appears to be undamaged, or is your HDTV provider also screwing up its retransmissions?
> 
> 
> How 'bout folks who might be feeding other types of film-based content to the D2 at 1080i such as folks who have decided to use scaling in their SD DVD player instead of sending 480i to the D2? Have you noticed any degradation in 1080i de-interlacing performance with the D2 V1.33 software?
> 
> 
> 480i de-interlacing performance remains perfect as best I can tell. So if there's an issue here it will be just with 1080i/60 feeds of film-based content into the D2. I'm more than willing to believe it is just Comcast screwing up my HDTV feed, but I thought I'd check with some of the old hands here.
> 
> --Bob



I have noticed 480i SD DVD that isn't anamorphic, looks really bad even with the scaling in my AVM 50. There is a lot of artifacts the worst being stair stepping around edges an people's mouths. Is this normal?

John


----------



## CycloneMike

Is anybody using the function that allows you to switch the rears and surrounds for the 6-CH analog input?


I do not seem to be able to get this function to work properly.


I want to be able to apply the analog-dsp and no other processing to my multi-channel (and 2-channel) SACD and DVD-A recordings from my DVD player.


I have switched the pre-outs to my amplifier per the instructions and have set the processing to analog-dsp. The sound still comes out of my surround speakers. (I have the copy surrounds to rears turned "off" as turning this on causes the sound to come out of both the surrounds and rears).


A similar question: is there a three button macro available for the analog-dsp setting alone, or would that be the "none" option? Is there a three button macro available to switch to analog-dir(ect) for a "DSP" setting?


Another questions: is there a three button macro to available to turn on and off the "copy surround to rears" as I would like to use this in all cases, but when listening to the 6-CH analog input - it would be nice to be able to select this on-the-fly.


Per communications with Anthem nearly two years ago I knew there was a glitch in the D1 software in regards to this function, but I was really hoping it had been addressed with the new software in the upgrade to a D1-HD.


Thank you,


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14236623
> 
> 
> ps. did you say ARC would not affect this input due to lack of bass management for Aanalog/dir?



Correct. ARC processing happens in the digital audio section of the D2. If you use ANALOG-DIRECT for an analog source, the input analog signal is never digitized and thus you lose ALL of the D2's processing features. Basically what you are left with is only the main volume control, just as would be the case with a traditional, non-processing pre-amp.


For a multi-channel player, this means you are entirely dependent on bass management and speaker time alignment (speaker distances) IN THE PLAYER. For a player sending out pure stereo (such as a traditional CD player when using its RCA analog audio stereo output jacks), you would have no bass management at all, which means no audio would be sent to your subwoofer.


If you use ANALOG-DSP in the D2, then the D2 digitizes its various analog audio inputs (both simple stereo inputs and also the multi-channel analog input) and then offers the full set of D2 audio processing -- including ARC. The processed digital audio that results is then converted to analog for output to your your amps.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14236625
> 
> 
> Could this have something to do with the increased use of non-standard cadence by video distributors to squeeze in more commercials?
> 
> 
> The impact on things like the HQV Reon/Realta are weird judder, as they get confused about the odd cadence coming across.



It could be, I suppose, although the D2 seems to be pretty snappy at picking up on even the odd-ball cadences.


I'm thinking that they might be screwing up the cadences when putting their "bug" logos and banner adds on the channels, but I'm seeing some cases that don't seem to be associated with that. It may also be that they are editing the content (badly) and screwing up the cadences, but the D2 is pretty good at recovering from that, so that would mean they must be "forcing" video mode for a second or so after such an edit.


[Remember folks: Friends don't let friends install Comcast.]

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14236678
> 
> 
> I have noticed 480i SD DVD that isn't anamorphic, looks really bad even with the scaling in my AVM 50. There is a lot of artifacts the worst being stair stepping around edges an people's mouths. Is this normal?
> 
> John



Keep in mind that some SD DVD transfers are just godawful to begin with. The older, non-anamorphic titles are more likely to fall into this category.


Make sure you have the D2's Video Source Adjust / Picture / Film Mode set to Auto for that input, and then you can check the Video Source Adjust / Info panel to see when the D2 is detecting film cadences. (NOTE: This will only be applicable if the input video is interlaced. Film Mode will always show as OFF in the Info panel if you are sending progressive video to the D2.)


Also, make sure your player really is sending 480i to the D2 and not 480p. If it is sending 480p then the de-interlacing is actually happening inside your player and not in the D2.


(And of course make sure the D2 is set to output the video resolution that most closely matches the "native" resolution of your display so that the display doesn't have to scale things a second time.)


But sometimes the producers used video rate tools to do editing and did it so badly that they screwed up the interlaced data before it ever got put onto the disc.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14236866
> 
> 
> Correct. ARC processing happens in the digital audio section of the D2. If you use ANALOG-DIRECT for an analog source, the input analog signal is never digitized and thus you lose ALL of the D2's processing features. Basically what you are left with is only the main volume control, just as would be the case with a traditional, non-processing pre-amp.
> 
> 
> For a multi-channel player, this means you are entirely dependent on bass management and speaker time alignment (speaker distances) IN THE PLAYER. For a player sending out pure stereo (such as a traditional CD player when using its RCA analog audio stereo output jacks), you would have no bass management at all, which means no audio would be sent to your subwoofer.
> 
> 
> If you use ANALOG-DSP in the D2, then the D2 digitizes its various analog audio inputs (both simple stereo inputs and also the multi-channel analog input) and then offers the full set of D2 audio processing -- including ARC. The processed digital audio that results is then converted to analog for output to your your amps.
> 
> --Bob



And it makes a tremendous difference in sound. I now use Analog dsp for all of my Sacd's. I have my Sony 777 connected with analog outputs for SACD


Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14236812
> 
> 
> Is anybody using the function that allows you to switch the rears and surrounds for the 6-CH analog input?
> 
> 
> I do not seem to be able to get this function to work properly.
> 
> 
> I want to be able to apply the analog-dsp and no other processing to my multi-channel (and 2-channel) SACD and DVD-A recordings from my DVD player.
> 
> 
> I have switched the pre-outs to my amplifier per the instructions and have set the processing to analog-dsp. The sound still comes out of my surround speakers. (I have the copy surrounds to rears turned "off" as turning this on causes the sound to come out of both the surrounds and rears).
> 
> 
> A similar question: is there a three button macro available for the analog-dsp setting alone, or would that be the "none" option? Is there a three button macro available to switch to analog-dir(ect) for a "DSP" setting?
> 
> 
> Another questions: is there a three button macro to available to turn on and off the "copy surround to rears" as I would like to use this in all cases, but when listening to the 6-CH analog input - it would be nice to be able to select this on-the-fly.
> 
> 
> Per communications with Anthem nearly two years ago I knew there was a glitch in the D1 software in regards to this function, but I was really hoping it had been addressed with the new software in the upgrade to a D1-HD.
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> Mike



The only 3-button remote combos that I know of are the ones listed in Appendix A of the manual.


Do not confuse the surround mode selections in that list with the ANALOG-Direct vs. ANALOG-DSP setting. ANALOG-DSP causes the input analog audio to be digitized and ENABLES whatever surround mode processing you select. There is no surround mode processing available if you have set the source to use ANALOG-Direct.


The "NONE" surround mode selection does no surround mode processing on the input. E.g. a 5.1 source will not be expanded to 7.1 speaker output.


----------------------------------------


I can't answer your questions on the Reverse and Copy settings you asked about as I haven't played with those. You may need to send an email to Anthem tech support.


From the manual, the Reverse function is only for the 6-ch analog input, and to make it work you must use an audio mode which DOES NOT act to raise the 5.1 channel input to 7.1 speaker output. The "None" mode would be appropriate for your case. You can set this as the default in the Setup / Mode Presets menu.


If it is still not working when you do that, then you will need to give Anthem tech support a call. Last I heard the Reverse function WAS working correctly in the V1.1x and V1.2x software versions.


==============================


ETA: At one point there was a "bug" -- or possibly this was intended behavior -- where setting the Reverse option ALSO changed which speakers got sent the Setup / Speaker Calibration test tones. I don't know if this has changed in the V1.3x software. The point is, verify correct operation by playing a disc, not by using the Setup / Speaker Calibration test tones.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/14237018
> 
> 
> And it makes a tremendous difference in sound. I now use Analog dsp for all of my Sacd's. I have my Sony 777 connected with analog outputs for SACD
> 
> 
> Dick



Dick,

can you still output in stereo using the Analog/DSP?


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14238691
> 
> 
> Dick,
> 
> can you still output in stereo using the Analog/DSP?
> 
> 
> John



Yes. Presuming you have stereo analog audio as input, simply select "Stereo" audio mode if you don't want any audio to be steered to the surrounds or center speaker. If you are using the 6 channel analog audio input -- playing content such as from a CD that only sends sound on the LF and RF channels of that -- select "None" as the audio mode. Make sure THX audio post processing is turned off for that input as well. And make sure you have disabled any speaker management (cross overs, speaker distances, and the like) in your player.


If you don't want your subwoofer to be included when you play Stereo audio, then set up a Music speaker configuration that doesn't include the subwoofer and which specifies Large front speakers. You can leave your surround and/or center speakers included in that configuration for other uses if you want since Stereo audio mode won't use them anyway. When you measure with ARC it will come up with a separate solution for your Movie and Music speaker configurations -- automatically adjusting for when the subwoofer is included. Then set up a Source from that player which uses the Music configuration.


If you leave your subwoofer in the configuration, and if your front speakers are set as Small, then even in Stereo audio mode, the cross overs will be active and some bass frequencies from the LF and RF input channels will be steered to your subwoofer. I like the musicality of my subwoofer so I leave it included in my Music speaker configuration (but I don't include the Center speaker).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The latest word I have is that AVM-50 ARC Upgrade kits (including the required, dealer installable, hardware change) will start shipping before the end of July. No surprises on the Upgrade kit pricing -- roughly US$800 installed for both the hardware change and the ARC kit itself.


Obviously none of this is cast in stone until the official word comes from Anthem. I've got some indication of closer to US$900 pricing, but I suspect that is just people being cautious -- much as when ARC upgrades for the D2 were being quoted (by dealers!) between US$400 and US$500 immediately prior to its release only to finally end up at US$399.


----------------------------


If this ship date holds true, that should also mean that new, AVM-50 plus ARC "bundles" ought to be orderable "real soon now", too! I still have no details on what the "bundle" pricing will be. As best I can tell, Anthem has not yet put out a new dealer price sheet detailing this stuff.


Nor do I have any confirmation yet that the AVM-40 ARC stuff is also happening at the same time, although it is pretty clear that ARC for the AVM-40 will definitely happen, and soon. In the past, Anthem has staggered builds for different models, so it may be that the AVM-40 related production will crank up after a few weeks of AVM-50 related production.


---------------------------


As for next generation D2 (D3?) related stuff, there is very little useful information floating around right now. I suspect that CEDIA is too soon for an Anthem announcement although CES might work depending on how much change is involved in such a product.


I also think it unlikely that such a change could be implemented as an "upgrade". That is, I think getting the new product would more likely require a trade-in.


If anyone would care to pass on any new rumors to me about expected Anthem announcements at CEDIA this fall or CES in January, I'll be happy to "monger" them as appropriate (according to how much they seem to make sense).

--Bob


----------



## cpcat

Wow, this is really cool. Kudos to Anthem.










Can't wait to hear reports from AVM50 "early upgraders" out there.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14238691
> 
> 
> Dick,
> 
> can you still output in stereo using the Analog/DSP?
> 
> 
> John



Like Bob said. you can toggle the DSp in the setup menu and hear the difference immediately.


Dick


----------



## scottshd

Bob I have D-tv and I also notice film mode going on and off with 1080i sources. I think it also did it on prior versions also.can'nt remember for certain though. also when I go from a hd channel to sd most of the time I have to put the d2 to an unused input then back to sat to get picture and sound back.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Switching in and out of film mode is normal. It's only a problem if the Anthem gets incorrectly stuck in video mode too long when it should be in film mode.


Anthem is testing a new version of the HDMI software that ought to help with your DirecTV problem.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14233119
> 
> 
> Working on it.



Really anxious to read that review


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14239126
> 
> 
> The latest word I have is that AVM-50 ARC Upgrade kits (including the required, dealer installable, hardware change) will start shipping before the end of July. No surprises on the Upgrade kit pricing -- roughly US$800 installed for both the hardware change and the ARC kit itself.
> 
> 
> Obviously none of this is cast in stone until the official word comes from Anthem. I've got some indication of closer to US$900 pricing, but I suspect that is just people being cautious -- much as when ARC upgrades for the D2 were being quoted (by dealers!) between US$400 and US$500 immediately prior to its release only to finally end up at US$399.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------
> 
> 
> If this ship date holds true, that should also mean that new, AVM-50 plus ARC "bundles" ought to be orderable "real soon now", too! I still have no details on what the "bundle" pricing will be. As best I can tell, Anthem has not yet put out a new dealer price sheet detailing this stuff.
> 
> 
> Nor do I have any confirmation yet that the AVM-40 ARC stuff is also happening at the same time, although it is pretty clear that ARC for the AVM-40 will definitely happen, and soon. In the past, Anthem has staggered builds for different models, so it may be that the AVM-40 related production will crank up after a few weeks of AVM-50 related production.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------
> 
> 
> As for next generation D2 (D3?) related stuff, there is very little useful information floating around right now. I suspect that CEDIA is too soon for an Anthem announcement although CES might work depending on how much change is involved in such a product.
> 
> 
> I also think it unlikely that such a change could be implemented as an "upgrade". That is, I think getting the new product would more likely require a trade-in.
> 
> 
> If anyone would care to pass on any new rumors to me about expected Anthem announcements at CEDIA this fall or CES in January, I'll be happy to "monger" them as appropriate (according to how much they seem to make sense).
> 
> --Bob




I was hoping for Cedia.


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14239126
> 
> 
> As for next generation D2 (D3?) related stuff, there is very little useful information floating around right now. I suspect that CEDIA is too soon for an Anthem announcement although CES might work depending on how much change is involved in such a product.
> 
> --Bob



Anthem should really put a muzzle on their regional reps and dealers then. I wasn't given a release date or anything, but a dealer told me that the next generation (or D2v.2) was imminent... if I remember correctly, one of them even said late summer or fall.


Of course, they have every interest in stringing everyone along so that they don't buy something else...


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14240920
> 
> 
> Really anxious to read that review



Well, don't hold your breath. The first part of the D2 story is in the machine for the Sept. column. The _next_ part will deal with the ARC vs. Audyssey measurements and audible comparisons.


----------



## bgrounds

I had this exact same issue (failed to switch to 115200 kbs) - you need to run the flash eraser, at least that's what worked for me.


----------



## yacht422

walt here: finally installed the arc, and like most others, the crossovers are counterintuitive(at least to me)

Front @ 40HX: ctr @ 100hz: surrounds @ 105 and sub @ 120(for an active servo 15"-er)

boost on fronts is +1.5; even for ctr; minus 1.5 for surrounds, and minus 1.5 for sub.

room eq is "on". Bass mgmt is auto-lfe.

Question: is reference volume level at "0.0? that level plays too loud for my old ears. watched mahlers sixth at (-5.5 db) and the sound was very clear, quiet and detailed when it should be, lots of pressure when so scored . i recognize the 'personal preference' issues inherent in my question, but this (?) is related to what arc adds (changes) in my system.

- - - and referring to and earlier post by Dmorse4765, i am running cd's analog thru an arcam player, and there is a notable increase in soundstage this way.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14244273
> 
> 
> walt here: finally installed the arc, and like most others, the crossovers are counterintuitive(at least to me)
> 
> Front @ 40HX: ctr @ 100hz: surrounds @ 105 and sub @ 120(for an active servo 15"-er)
> 
> boost on fronts is +1.5; even for ctr; minus 1.5 for surrounds, and minus 1.5 for sub.
> 
> room eq is "on". Bass mgmt is auto-lfe.
> 
> Question: is reference volume level at "0.0? that level plays too loud for my old ears. watched mahlers sixth at (-5.5 db) and the sound was very clear, quiet and detailed when it should be, lots of pressure when so scored . i recognize the 'personal preference' issues inherent in my question, but this (?) is related to what arc adds (changes) in my system.
> 
> - - - and referring to and earlier post by Dmorse4765, i am running cd's analog thru an arcam player, and there is a notable increase in soundstage this way.



After calibration, with speaker levels targeted to produce an SPL reading of 75dB using the Anthem's internal test tones (or as automatically set up by ARC), a main volume setting of -10dB will produce a "home theater style" reference volume output of 75dB.


A main volume setting of 0dB will produce a "movie theater style" reference volume output of 85dB. Most people find 85dB too loud for home theater use.


Keep in mind that peak volume levels (particularly from the LFE channel) can exceed the reference volume level by 15dB or so.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Does anyone know the rationale for limiting ARC to 5Khz and below? I have a sharp 10db drop between 5K and 10K on my plots. Part of this is my room but I believe some of it is due to where ARC is choosing its reference level. If I recalculate out to 10Khz I get a pretty even curve throughout the spectrum. I haven't done a lot of critical listening so far but it sounds OK thus far. Just wondering if anybody else is seeing a large drop off after 5K and or correcting out to 10Khz?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/14244881
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the rationale for limiting ARC to 5Khz and below? I have a sharp 10db drop between 5K and 10K on my plots. Part of this is my room but I believe some of it is due to where ARC is choosing its reference level. If I recalculate out to 10Khz I get a pretty even curve throughout the spectrum. I haven't done a lot of critical listening so far but it sounds OK thus far. Just wondering if anybody else is seeing a large drop off after 5K and or correcting out to 10Khz?



Raising the Max EQ Frequency *WILL* make the Calculated curves look better out there, but that result is misleading.


The audio is too directional up that high, which means the ARC mic is picking up variations in the different listening positions that have nothing to do with real room response.


I.e., there's no good data for ARC to use up there.


It's amazing that ARC works as well as it does all the way up to 5KHz. Don't push it beyond that.


As to the dip showing in your curves, consider your speaker positioning -- particularly the vertical spread capability of your tweeters given the tweeter height compared to your seated ear height. You may be able to get a better result with some minor speaker repositioning. Also make sure you are doing your ARC mic positioning at the proper (seated ear) height but with due regard to whether it will be blocked from some speakers or get nearby reflections.


The bottom line: Don't raise the Max EQ Frequency target setting. And trust what you hear more than what you see in the ARC curve charts.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I have a dedicated and treated room so alternate placement isn't an option. The only difference in height during measurement is the rear seating on a riser of approximately 10". I still wish ARC had some way of looking at individual position data, instead of only looking at the averages. It seems strange to me that my high end would be rolled off by 10db on pretty much all seven speakers. I have to do more listening comparisons between the 5Khz calcs and 10Khz calcs.


----------



## goatwuss

Hello,


How do I pull up the Gennum scaler page (showed in the screenshot of post 1 of this thread) ???


Thanks!


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/14244881
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the rationale for limiting ARC to 5Khz and below? I have a sharp 10db drop between 5K and 10K on my plots. Part of this is my room but I believe some of it is due to where ARC is choosing its reference level. If I recalculate out to 10Khz I get a pretty even curve throughout the spectrum. I haven't done a lot of critical listening so far but it sounds OK thus far. Just wondering if anybody else is seeing a large drop off after 5K and or correcting out to 10Khz?




For my room I was using the 5k setting, but decided to try 20k.. (as my room is very dead, and the treble was suffering).


After I did this, WOW, big improvement.. Even if the ARC is said to have problems with Directional cues at frequencies above 5k, in reality, so does your ears... Every listening spot will effect the treble different to your ears anyway, so to me, having the arc deal with this upto 20k is the same.. Hears what my ears would hear at that exact listening spot..



Anway, in my situation, the 20k calibration worked the best.. More smooth, and very awesome detail in music and movie now..


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/14246083
> 
> 
> For my room I was using the 5k setting, but decided to try 20k.. (as my room is very dead, and the treble was suffering).
> 
> 
> After I did this, WOW, big improvement.. Even if the ARC is said to have problems with Directional cues at frequencies above 5k, in reality, so does your ears... Every listening spot will effect the treble different to your ears anyway, so to me, having the arc deal with this upto 20k is the same.. Hears what my ears would hear at that exact listening spot..
> 
> 
> 
> Anway, in my situation, the 20k calibration worked the best.. More smooth, and very awesome detail in music and movie now..



Correct me if I am wrong but aren't you supposed to point the mic vertically?


And if so, when playing frequencies above 5k being that they are very directional, wouldn't the results be completely inaccurate as your ears are not pointed to the ceiling?


John


----------



## gostan

Not to change the flow of ARC questions, but I have been thinking of adding a Wadia 170i Transport to my system with my IPod. I went on the Wadia site and was surprised to find a Faq indicating that the 170i will not work with Anthem Processors at this time.


I emailed Wadia and received the following response (very swiftly I might add):



> Quote:
> Thank you for your interest in Wadia! We have found a signal compatibility issue with the Anthem products in relation to the SPDIF output of the 170iTransport. We are currently working on a solution, probably in the form of an inline adapter. We will hopefully have something soon and will more than likely provide the part at no charge to customers with Anthem processors. I will let you know what we come up with. This is the only DAC/Processor that we have encountered this incompatibility with. Talk to you soon!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/14245941
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> How do I pull up the Gennum scaler page (showed in the screenshot of post 1 of this thread) ???
> 
> 
> Thanks!



This is what Anthem calls the "Video Source Adjust" menu.


To bring it up, select viewing from any input Source and then press and hold the "7" key on the remote until the menu appears on screen. The menu is made up of several different panels that you reach by scrolling across the top of it. The one pictured in the first post of this thread is the Info panel.


Note that the settings in the Video Source Adjust menu are remembered separately for each input Source. So select the Source you want to modify and then view and change settings in the Video Source Adjust menu. You will see the changes in the video as you make them. There are also some remote control shortcuts for getting to specific parts of that menu more rapidly.


The Video Source Adjust / Patterns panel is also very useful. That's how you bring up the internally generated test patterns in the D2 when doing your video calibration.


The other main settings menu in the D2 is the "Setup" menu. That's where you do things like configuring your video output, your speakers, and your set of Sources.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14246188
> 
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong but aren't you supposed to point the mic vertically?
> 
> 
> And if so, when playing frequencies above 5k being that they are very directional, wouldn't the results be completely inaccurate as your ears are not pointed to the ceiling?
> 
> 
> John



The issue is not the pointing of the mic, but rather that what the mic hears at the various listening positions is colored by directionality more than room response. Thus ARC doesn't have good data to correct room response up there. [ARC uses the variation in measurement at the different mic positions to distinguish room response from inherent speaker performance.]


Nick tells me that the ARC designers were even worried that the 5KHz setting might be too high, but they got enough good responses in testing that they left it that way.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14244371
> 
> 
> After calibration, with speaker levels targeted to produce an SPL reading of 75dB using the Anthem's internal test tones (or as automatically set up by ARC), a main volume setting of -10dB will produce a "home theater style" reference volume output of 75dB.
> 
> 
> A main volume setting of 0dB will produce a "movie theater style" reference volume output of 85dB. Most people find 85dB too loud for home theater use.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that peak volume levels (particularly from the LFE channel) can exceed the reference volume level by 15dB or so.
> 
> --Bob



Not to challenge YOU Bob, but isn't reference level (set at 0 on the Anthem) supposed to be at 75db? My understanding was that you then get 105db peak (at the listening position). The peak for lfe at that reference level is 115db (again at the listening position). Only the Avia disc should be calibrated with reference at 85db, right? If you have info that says otherwise, please share it!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14247089
> 
> 
> Not to challenge YOU Bob, but isn't reference level (set at 0 on the Anthem) supposed to be at 75db? My understanding was that you then get 105db peak (at the listening position). The peak for lfe at that reference level is 115db (again at the listening position). Only the Avia disc should be calibrated with reference at 85db, right? If you have info that says otherwise, please share it!



The built-in Setup / Level Calibration tones in the D2 correspond to what "reference level" audio input sources would produce during normal playback when the D2's main volume control is set at -10dB.


This is actually pretty normal for AVR and pre-pro setups. The idea is that you adjust the built-in calibration levels to measure 75dB on your SPL meter and then use -10dB main volume to get that during normal playback.


Or, if you prefer, you crank main volume up to 0dB during normal playback and get 85dB reference levels (as are commonly used in movie theaters) but WITHOUT having to subject yourself to that during the Setup / Level Calibration process.


There is no hard and fast rule as to what reference level volume people should use. Use what is comfortable to you. 75dB is just a Rule of Thumb that works in many home theater setups. 85dB in movie theaters partly accounts for the audience noise level in movie theaters. Most people find 85dB too loud for home theater use.


The thing to keep in mind is that when using the internal Setup / Level Calibration tones as your guide, whatever level you set measuring those with your SPL meter will correspond to what "reference level" audio input sources will produce out of your speakers when you set the D2's main volume control to -10dB.


If you set the main volume to 0dB then "reference level" audio inputs will generate 10dB higher volume out of your speakers than whatever SPL level you targeted when setting things up with your SPL meter to begin with.


If you set the main volume to -20dB, then, similarly, "reference level" audio inputs will produce speaker volume 10dB quieter than what you targeted.


-------------------------------------


ARC uses a wider frequency range for setting levels than is used with the built-in calibration tones, so the results may vary slightly from what you would set up manually with your SPL meter. But it looks to me like ARC is targeting the same standard: I.e., a main volume setting of -10dB is designed for home theater use (near 75dB for "reference level) and a main volume setting of 0dB is designed to replicate movie theater setups (near 85dB for "reference level").

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Wondered if anyone has this problem. I have 1.33 firmware installed on my AVM 50 but was getting this sysmptom with other firmware. When I stop a movie with my ps3 or change menus, pause and start with my HD dvd, I get a loud hissing/buzzing from my left rear speaker. Is this an hdmi loss of handshake with these devices because I can't think of anything else, and why just the rear left and not all the speakers?









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I can't recall any other reports like that in here.


Are you saying this happens only when you switch between the PS3 and your HD-DVD player? Or when doing those specific operations in the PS3 or the separate specific operations in your HD-DVD player?


The first step is to make sure the noise is coming from the Anthem (or player) and not from your power amps. To do that, simply swap the LR output from the Anthem with some other output and see if the noise moves to the new speaker. If it stays in the LR speaker then the problem is in either your power amp or the speaker itself.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Updated D1 to 1.33 last night. Today put on ARC 1.2.2, everything seemed fine until I attempted to upload. Would fail uploading the Movie and Music SUB settings. Called Anthem, was given 1.2.4, had to redo the calculation but the upload worked.


I have been very impressed with how much of a positive difference the ARC has made. Interesting thing when my brother saw my setup the audio is what he commented on.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/14246267
> 
> 
> Not to change the flow of ARC questions, but I have been thinking of adding a Wadia 170i Transport to my system with my IPod. I went on the Wadia site and was surprised to find a Faq indicating that the 170i will not work with Anthem Processors at this time.
> 
> 
> I emailed Wadia and received the following response (very swiftly I might add):




That doesn't make sense to me. The output of the Wadia 170i Transport is standard digital coax.



I alsomost bought one but changed my mind. Instead I will go with a SqueezeBox 3 duet for my Digital music server instead of using a ipod/Wadia combo.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14247197
> 
> 
> The built-in Setup / Level Calibration tones in the D2 correspond to what "reference level" audio input sources would produce during normal playback when the D2's main volume control is set at -10dB.
> 
> 
> This is actually pretty normal for AVR and pre-pro setups. The idea is that you adjust the built-in calibration levels to measure 75dB on your SPL meter and then use -10dB main volume to get that during normal playback.
> 
> 
> Or, if you prefer, you crank main volume up to 0dB during normal playback and get 85dB reference levels (as are commonly used in movie theaters) but WITHOUT having to subject yourself to that during the Setup / Level Calibration process.
> 
> 
> There is no hard and fast rule as to what reference level volume people should use. Use what is comfortable to you. 75dB is just a Rule of Thumb that works in many home theater setups. 85dB in movie theaters partly accounts for the audience noise level in movie theaters. Most people find 85dB too loud for home theater use.
> 
> 
> The thing to keep in mind is that when using the internal Setup / Level Calibration tones as your guide, whatever level you set measuring those with your SPL meter will correspond to what "reference level" audio input sources will produce out of your speakers when you set the D2's main volume control to -10dB.
> 
> 
> If you set the main volume to 0dB then "reference level" audio inputs will generate 10dB higher volume out of your speakers than whatever SPL level you targeted when setting things up with your SPL meter to begin with.
> 
> 
> If you set the main volume to -20dB, then, similarly, "reference level" audio inputs will produce speaker volume 10dB quieter than what you targeted.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ARC uses a wider frequency range for setting levels than is used with the built-in calibration tones, so the results may vary slightly from what you would set up manually with your SPL meter. But it looks to me like ARC is targeting the same standard: I.e., a main volume setting of -10dB is designed for home theater use (near 75dB for "reference level) and a main volume setting of 0dB is designed to replicate movie theater setups (near 85dB for "reference level").
> 
> --Bob



The key thing here is reference level inputs. DVDs tend to be more uniform I think, however the input level on CDs (the level at which the information is recorded) varies tremendously from CD to CD and so the output is going to vary. So even when you calibrate your system to either a 75dB or 85dB level, some media is going to sound loud and some quiet.


----------



## jviggi

I wonder if anybody has experienced my THX issue after ARC. Before ARC, I seem to remember that I had acces to all of the THX modes. I know for sure that I had THX games mode.

My Setup menu reads:

a. 6.0: None

b. 2.0: Anthem Logic-Music

c. 2Sur: Same as 2.0

d. DD5: None

e. EX: None

f. DTS: None

g. ES: None

Now when I press the THX button on the remote, the on screen display reads 6 CHANNEL INPUT THX. My only choices when I press up or down are THX Cinema or THX Off. I do not have acces to any other mode.

The same thing happens when I press the mode button on the remote. I only get the same two choices. Maybe I have something set up wrong but I can't find it! By the way, my system is 5.1


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jviggi* /forum/post/14251831
> 
> 
> I wonder if anybody has experienced my THX issue after ARC. Before ARC, I seem to remember that I had acces to all of the THX modes. I know for sure that I had THX games mode.
> 
> My Setup menu reads:
> 
> a. 6.0: None
> 
> b. 2.0: Anthem Logic-Music
> 
> c. 2Sur: Same as 2.0
> 
> d. DD5: None
> 
> e. EX: None
> 
> f. DTS: None
> 
> g. ES: None
> 
> Now when I press the THX button on the remote, the on screen display reads 6 CHANNEL INPUT THX. My only choices when I press up or down are THX Cinema or THX Off. I do not have acces to any other mode.
> 
> The same thing happens when I press the mode button on the remote. I only get the same two choices. Maybe I have something set up wrong but I can’t find it! By the way, my system is 5.1



Given that you are listening to a 5.1 source, the other THX modes (e.g., THX -Games) are only available if you have a 7.1 speaker setup. That is, they only differ from the "normal" THX-Cinema processing with respect to what they would send to your rear speakers. Since you have no rear speakers, those THX options aren't offered to you. See Section 4.8.6 of the Manual, and note specifically the number of output channels each such mode is designed to generate.


By the way, my experience with ARC is that THX post processing is far less valuable after setting up ARC. Listen to some decent source content with THX turned off and ARC turned on and see if you don't agree.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14249289
> 
> 
> I can't recall any other reports like that in here.
> 
> 
> Are you saying this happens only when you switch between the PS3 and your HD-DVD player? Or when doing those specific operations in the PS3 or the separate specific operations in your HD-DVD player?
> 
> 
> The first step is to make sure the noise is coming from the Anthem (or player) and not from your power amps. To do that, simply swap the LR output from the Anthem with some other output and see if the noise moves to the new speaker. If it stays in the LR speaker then the problem is in either your power amp or the speaker itself.
> 
> --Bob



This happens when doing specific operations with both players. Will try your suggestion.

thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14252215
> 
> 
> This happens when doing specific operations with both players. Will try your suggestion.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



If you find the problem moves to the new speaker (indicating the problem is in the Anthem or the player), check out the following:


1) Does the noise vanish if you "Mute" the Anthem?


2) Does the noise vanish if you turn off ARC (Setup / Source Select / Room EQ = OFF for that source device)?


3) Does the noise vanish if you power off the source device but leave the Anthem powered on?


The idea is to try to isolate what parts of the setup need to be active to cause the noise to happen.


It is unlikely, but possible, that you have a type of "ground loop" problem as well. The single most common cause of ground loop problems is 60Hz power line interference coming in over the cable shields of cable or satellite system. "Ground loop" interference of this nature can hop from box to box via the cable shields of the cables connecting them. If you have cable or satellite TV, try temporarily disconnecting the feed from the wall to your cable or satellite TV box and see if that makes the noise vanish. (For this to be the cause, but only in that one speaker, you would likely also have to have a problem in your power amp.)

--Bob


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/14246267
> 
> 
> Not to change the flow of ARC questions, but I have been thinking of adding a Wadia 170i Transport to my system with my IPod. I went on the Wadia site and was surprised to find a Faq indicating that the 170i will not work with Anthem Processors at this time.
> 
> 
> I emailed Wadia and received the following response (very swiftly I might add):



I wonder if it is the same problem with the Mits. TV's (see below from Anthem's troubleshooting section). I had to make an in-line adapter with a capacitor for my old Mits. TV for my D2:


Problem: The AVM 20 doesn't recognize a coax RCA digital audio signal from a TV with a built-in digital tuner (known problem with some Mitsubishi rear-projection TVs).


Cause: The S/PDIF output of the TV has excessive DC offset (1200 mV vs. the specified tolerance of 50 mV or less). (DC stands for Direct Current).


Solution: Block the DC offset -- This can be done in one of two ways, and either method works equally well. The first is to use the AES/EBU input instead of the RCA input, through an RCA to XLR adapter. AES/EBU inputs are transformer-coupled, and transformers block DC. Another way to block DC is through a capacitor in series. If the AES/EBU connection is already in use, a small value capacitor (e.g. .22 uF) can be put in series with the RCA connection with the same result (have your Anthem dealer perform this).


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14252544
> 
> 
> If you find the problem moves to the new speaker (indicating the problem is in the Anthem or the player), check out the following:
> 
> 
> 1) Does the noise vanish if you "Mute" the Anthem?
> 
> 
> 2) Does the noise vanish if you turn off ARC (Setup / Source Select / Room EQ = OFF for that source device)?
> 
> 
> 3) Does the noise vanish if you power off the source device but leave the Anthem powered on?
> 
> 
> The idea is to try to isolate what parts of the setup need to be active to cause the noise to happen.
> 
> 
> It is unlikely, but possible, that you have a type of "ground loop" problem as well. The single most comon cause of ground loop problems is 60Hz power line interference coming in over the cable shields of cable or satellite system. "Ground loop" interference of this nature can hop from box to box via the cable shields of the cables connecting them. If you have cable or satellite TV, try temporarily disconnecting the feed from the wall to your cable or satellite TV box and see if that makes the noise vanish. (For this to be the cause, but only in that one speaker, you would likely also have to have a problem in your power amp.)
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Done some more testing.

1. sound comes on when switching inputs, ie. ps3 to HD DVD to DVD.

2. also comes from rear left sometimes.

3.unplugged cable no change.

4.wiggled connections to A5 amp. No change.

5.Buzzing stops when mute is on, if I unmute it quickly sound doesn't come on until I cycle through inputs again.

6.sound stops if input is turned off

7. I don't have ARC yet. (AVM 50 owner)


I don't get any of this buzzing while playing movies or music, ONLY when switching inputs or navigating some menus.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14253784
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Done some more testing.
> 
> 1. sound comes on when switching imputs, ie. ps3 to HD DVD to DVD.
> 
> 2. also comes from rear left sometimes.
> 
> 3.unplugged cable no change.
> 
> 4.wiggled connections to A5 amp. No change.
> 
> 5.Buzzing stops when mute is on, if I unmute it quickly sound doesn't come on until I cycle through inputs again.
> 
> 6.sound stops if input is turned off
> 
> 7. I don't have ARC yet. (AVM 50 owner)
> 
> 
> I don't get any of this buzzing while playing movies or music, ONLY when switching inputs or navigating some menus.
> 
> John



For the sources involved, try this experiment:


In Setup / Source Setup for each such source, temporarily set Muting = MAX. This will mute the source input for a while each time the type of audio input changes (whether due to some change in content or due to switching to that source).


This may delay when the noise starts, but the main question is, even after waiting a few seconds, do you still get the noise?


---------------------------------------


I presume you are using HDMI LPCM audio from the PS3. Try temporarily setting the PS3's HDMI audio output to "bitstream" and see if you still get the noise.


Also, verify that the audio settings in the PS3 for HDMI LPCM output do *NOT* have any of the 7.1 options checked, nor any options for 5.1 or below but with output sampling rates higher than 96KHz. The automatic HDMI setup in the PS3 should have removed all of those for you (i.e., the 7.1 choices or the other choices but with higher than 96KHz), but let's double check to be sure.


Odds are you are going to have to work this with Anthem tech support. So we're just collecting info here and going through the basics steps to try to isolate what works and what doesn't work.


---------------------------------------


ETA: Do you have any HDMI input sources that are NOT generating noise like this?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

my digital box doesn't do this and it is hdmi.

John


will check the other things when I put on the pj later this evening.

thanks


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14246583
> 
> 
> The issue is not the pointing of the mic, but rather that what the mic hears at the various listening positions is colored by directionality more than room response. Thus ARC doesn't have good data to correct room response up there. [ARC uses the variation in measurement at the different mic positions to distinguish room response from inherent speaker performance.]
> 
> 
> Nick tells me that the ARC designers were even worried that the 5KHz setting might be too high, but they got enough good responses in testing that they left it that way.
> 
> --Bob



I have to add another vote to setting ARC higher than 5 KHz.


My front speakers are behind a 10 ft. wide "acoustically transparent" projection screen, and my four 7.1 surrounds are all dipoles located up high on the walls so the tweeters are aimed considerably above the listener's heads. The dedicated home theater room has acoustic treatments.


The result is that all high frequencies are rolled off somewhat. When measured by ARC, I've got about a 7 decibel dip around 12 KHz from each my speakers. I took ARC measurements at 6 locations, since I have two rows of 3 seats each, with the back row on a raised floor about 2 feet higher than the front.


The sound with ARC set to a 12 KHz limit is awesome. The highs, clarity, and sense of "presence" are all greatly enhanced relative to a 5 KHz limit ARC setting.


I'd suggest people try a higher limit and let their ears be their guide. If they don't like it, they can always revert to a 5 KHz limit.


- Dave


----------



## barhoram

I asked a similar question a few pages back on my D2 not detecting a digital signal from a matrix switch. The signal is picked up fine by other pre-amps...but for some reason not my D2. I will see if perhaps the RCA to XLR adaptor will work.....




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChantheMan* /forum/post/14253014
> 
> 
> I wonder if it is the same problem with the Mits. TV's (see below from Anthem's troubleshooting section). I had to make an in-line adapter with a capacitor for my old Mits. TV for my D2:
> 
> 
> Problem: The AVM 20 doesn't recognize a coax RCA digital audio signal from a TV with a built-in digital tuner (known problem with some Mitsubishi rear-projection TVs).
> 
> 
> Cause: The S/PDIF output of the TV has excessive DC offset (1200 mV vs. the specified tolerance of 50 mV or less). (DC stands for Direct Current).
> 
> 
> Solution: Block the DC offset -- This can be done in one of two ways, and either method works equally well. The first is to use the AES/EBU input instead of the RCA input, through an RCA to XLR adapter. AES/EBU inputs are transformer-coupled, and transformers block DC. Another way to block DC is through a capacitor in series. If the AES/EBU connection is already in use, a small value capacitor (e.g. .22 uF) can be put in series with the RCA connection with the same result (have your Anthem dealer perform this).


----------



## barhoram

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


It Works!!



Wow that was fast! I spent about 2 weeks trying to trouble shoot this...and thanks to the wealth of info on here, have my answer!


Now we can access all of the whole house audio/video in the theater too!


Off to buy a 2nd RCA/XLR cable (stole the one from the sub to try)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Cool! Info from the AVM-20 days helps current product owners too!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/14254381
> 
> 
> I'd suggest people try a higher limit and let their ears be their guide. If they don't like it, they can always revert to a 5 KHz limit.
> 
> 
> - Dave



If your EARS say it's better, then it's hard to argue! However, don't use the higher limit JUST because it makes the "Calculated" curve look better out there. Again, the word I have from Nick at Anthem is that ARC doesn't have much useful to work with up there.


[I tried a higher setting once with ARC V1.1 and didn't like the results at all, but that was back before we discovered the potential for corrupted ARC Uploads to the D2, so that may have been the cause.]

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/14254381
> 
> 
> I have to add another vote to setting ARC higher than 5 KHz.
> 
> 
> My front speakers are behind a 10 ft. wide "acoustically transparent" projection screen, and my four 7.1 surrounds are all dipoles located up high on the walls so the tweeters are aimed considerably above the listener's heads. The dedicated home theater room has acoustic treatments.
> 
> 
> The result is that all high frequencies are rolled off somewhat. When measured by ARC, I've got about a 7 decibel dip around 12 KHz from each my speakers. I took ARC measurements at 6 locations, since I have two rows of 3 seats each, with the back row on a raised floor about 2 feet higher than the front.
> 
> 
> The sound with ARC set to a 12 KHz limit is awesome. The highs, clarity, and sense of "presence" are all greatly enhanced relative to a 5 KHz limit ARC setting.
> 
> 
> I'd suggest people try a higher limit and let their ears be their guide. If they don't like it, they can always revert to a 5 KHz limit.
> 
> 
> - Dave



I have a very similar setup, dedicated treated room etc but not the AT screen. My results sound very similar to yours. My room appears to roll off significantly (10db) starting at 5Khz, although I think it may actually be the large low frequency gain of the room which is making ARC choose a high reference line.


I'm currently running my 10Khz calc and don't hear any degradation, I may have to bump it up to 12K as I still have a bit of a dip there. I'm also going to do some 5khz vs 10khz comparisons but so far I'm leaning towards the 10khz correction.


I emailed Nick and he basically repeated the caveats Bob and others have mentioned but also said if it sounds better use it. I've sent him my calc files so it will be interesting to see what he comes back with.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I would have to assume that ARC has only so much "correction resource" to spread around. I would guess that such resources are assigned per speaker, but maybe not. And I suspect that for most rooms, ARC has to make some choices as to which problems it focusses on correcting.


In any event, one thing that may effect whether raising the Max Frequency helps or hurts is what other room response problems below 5KHz ARC decides it has to fix. A well treated room may free up ARC resources to some degree.


One thing's for sure, I would STRONGLY recommend folks not raise that Max EQ Frequency target above 5KHz until they've had plenty of time listening to the default ARC results. Get your ears familiar with what ARC does by default and THEN fiddle with it if you want.


Again, do not be fooled by the fact that the Calculated curves look better up there if you raise that target setting. If the ARC mic is picking up meaningless data, the Calculated curves may look good, but that doesn't translate into real improvement. Your ears will have to be the judge.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Here are my graphs showing the drop off at 5Khz..i.e. where ARC no longer corrects.


----------



## TREVLAN

Hi again,


I have a question regarding "dual outputs" i know the AVM50 does not have 2 main outputs via HDMI.

My situation is this. I am installing a projector and would like ot hook up the ps3 to it via HDMI for bluray ofcourse. Then for HDTV/cable viewing I will be adding a 42" plasma or keeping my sxrd60xbr2 not sure but anywho. I know I can add a component output for the cable box onto the plasma but what if I wanted to say watch a hockey game on the projector. Is there a way to route the output back through the HDMI to the PJ?

I hope I am explaining myself correctly.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Hook up the PS3 via HDMI to the AVM-50. Both audio and video will come in on that HDMI cable.


Hook up the cable box via Component to the AVM-50. You can use Optical digital audio cable for audio if you select method (1) or (2) below and "COPY" Main audio to Zone 2, otherwise you must hook up BOTH an Optical digital audio cable for Main path audio input of DD5.1 cable TV programs AND a stereo analog RCA cable pair for Zone 2 path audio input.


Hook up the projector to the Main AVM-50 HDMI output.


The AVM-50 will convert the cable Component input to HDMI for your projector meaning you can watch either the PS3 or your cable box on the projector, with both converted to the Video Output you specify for your projector.


Meanwhile, hook up your second TV to the "Main or Zone 2" Component output of the AVM-50.


In Setup / Video Output you can specify one of three things to go out that AVM-50 output to your second TV:


1) The source you select on the Main path, PROCESSED: Use this if your second TV can accept the same Video Output configuration you have specified for the projector. You can just use the audio on the Main path (the audio going to your normal surround speakers) if your second TV is in the same room as the projector, or you can "Copy" that to Zone 2, which means it is down-mixed to stereo and sent out the Zone 2 stereo outputs of the AVM-50 for your second TV in a different room. In the latter case, the Main and Zone 2 volumes can be separately controlled and separately muted, meaning you can select the Main source but leave the projector off and the Main volume muted and just get audio and video on your second TV.


2) The source you select on the Main path, UNprocessed: Use this if your second TV would work better getting the unprocessed video passed through from the cable box. The second TV would do its own scaling of that video input just as if you had the cable box connected to it directly. Audio is as in (1) above.


3) The source you SEPARATELY select on the Zone 2 path, UNprocessed: Use this if you want to simultaneously have different sources playing on the projector and on your second TV. The video going to the second TV will be unprocessed pass through from the source you select for it. Main path audio will go out the normal, surround sound audio outputs of the AVM-50. Use the AVM-50's stereo audio output jacks for Zone 2 to pass the selected Zone 2 source's audio to your second TV. Note that you must use stereo analog RCA jack audio input for your Zone 2 sources for this to work.


Note that you can define up to 4 distinct Video Output configurations, so you could even switch between, say methods (2) and (3) on the fly by having them in separate Video Output configurations.


---------------------------------------


NOTE: Copy protected HDMI input (as from the PS3 and just about every other interesting HDMI source device) can not be converted to Component output. When you select an HDMI input on the Main path, the Component output of the AVM-50 will be muted unless you have used method (3) above and selected a different (non-HDMI) input source for Zone 2. Which basically means you can't watch the PS3 on your second, Component video TV.


But as long as you are OK not seeing the PS3 on the second TV, this hookup will get you what you want for the cable box (and other video sources like it) and both TVs.

--Bob


----------



## clwhitlock

I have updated my ARC to version 1.2.2. When running new measurements i have lost a measurement signal for the right rear surround. It jumps from right side to left rear. I reloaded v1.2.2 and tried again with same result. My system is 7.1 direct and is designated as such in the speaker config section. Do I have some setting somewhere that is causing my D2 and ARC not to recognize the right rear speaker? BTW, ARC sounds great even without the RR speaker. Thanks for replys. Chuck


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *clwhitlock* /forum/post/14256154
> 
> 
> I have updated my ARC to version 1.2.2. When running new measurements i have lost a measurement signal for the right rear surround. It jumps from right side to left rear. I reloaded v1.2.2 and tried again with same result. My system is 7.1 direct and is designated as such in the speaker config section. Do I have some setting somewhere that is causing my D2 and ARC not to recognize the right rear speaker? BTW, ARC sounds great even without the RR speaker. Thanks for replys. Chuck



In addition to the Setup / Speaker Configuration stuff, you ALSO have to tell the ARC application itself that you have 2 rear speakers.


Look closely at the screen ARC puts up for you when you go to do Measurement -- the screen with the check boxes for which speakers you have. Make sure you specify in there that you have 2 rears. If you are doing both Movie and Music configurations, specify that for both of them.

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

Alright here is my Klipsch THX Ultra 2 setup. My equipment rack and speakers all in one cabinet that I just made. Took about 3 days to make this cabinet, it doesnt vibrate or anything, that I could tell and I have turned the volume up a ton. So here is a list of my equipment:


Anthem Statement D2 with ARC-1

Anthem PVA 7

Panamax 5500EX

Toshiba HD DVD A30

Sony PS3

Dish Network HD DVR

Sony KDL52XBR2


AND...Klipsch THX Ultra II system!!

Attachment 115005 

Attachment 115006


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/14256325
> 
> 
> Alright here is my Klipsch THX Ultra 2 setup. My equipment rack and speakers all in one cabinet that I just made. Took about 3 days to make this cabinet, it doesnt vibrate or anything, that I could tell and I have turned the volume up a ton. So here is a list of my equipment:
> 
> 
> Anthem Statement D2 with ARC-1
> 
> Anthem PVA 7
> 
> Panamax 5500EX
> 
> Toshiba HD DVD A30
> 
> Sony PS3
> 
> Dish Network HD DVR
> 
> Sony KDL52XBR2
> 
> 
> AND...Klipsch THX Ultra II system!!
> 
> Attachment 115005
> 
> Attachment 115006



Boy, do you need ARC!!


----------



## goatwuss

Hello!


Thanks Bob and others for your help regarding pulling up the video options menu. Pretty cool!


I just changed speakers to av123 LS6 line sources, and they are not as efficient as my prior speakers... is there any way to change the reference level of the D2? So that I can adjust the volume that 0db on the Anthem actually is. I'd like to make 0db louder with my setup.


Thanks


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/14256325
> 
> 
> Alright here is my Klipsch THX Ultra 2 setup. My equipment rack and speakers all in one cabinet that I just made. Took about 3 days to make this cabinet, it doesnt vibrate or anything, that I could tell and I have turned the volume up a ton. So here is a list of my equipment:
> 
> 
> Anthem Statement D2 with ARC-1
> 
> Anthem PVA 7
> 
> Panamax 5500EX
> 
> Toshiba HD DVD A30
> 
> Sony PS3
> 
> Dish Network HD DVR
> 
> Sony KDL52XBR2
> 
> 
> AND...Klipsch THX Ultra II system!!
> 
> Attachment 115005
> 
> Attachment 115006



Nice looking cabinet. I like the finish. Years ago my old roomate and I made the one I'm using now but it doesn't look nearly that good.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14254187
> 
> 
> For the sources involved, try this experiment:
> 
> 
> In Setup / Source Setup for each such source, temporarily set Muting = MAX. This will mute the source input for a while each time the type of audio input changes (whether due to some change in content or due to switching to that source).
> 
> 
> This may delay when the noise starts, but the main question is, even after waiting a few seconds, do you still get the noise?
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I presume you are using HDMI LPCM audio from the PS3. Try temporarily setting the PS3's HDMI audio output to "bitstream" and see if you still get the noise.
> 
> 
> Also, verify that the audio settings in the PS3 for HDMI LPCM output do *NOT* have any of the 7.1 options checked, nor any options for 5.1 or below but with output sampling rates higher than 96KHz. The automatic HDMI setup in the PS3 should have removed all of those for you (i.e., the 7.1 choices or the other choices but with higher than 96KHz), but let's double check to be sure.
> 
> 
> Odds are you are going to have to work this with Anthem tech support. So we're just collecting info here and going through the basics steps to try to isolate what works and what doesn't work.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: Do you have any HDMI input sources that are NOT generating noise like this?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

1. ps3 sound is setup properly

2. buzzing is now coming out from the left speakers, front, side and rear. Fronts are using a separate amp from the side and rear.

3.wiggled hdmi cables and buzzing did not stop. I even get it when switching to my SD DVD player which uses component and optical for sound. Pulling optical out made no diff.

4. muting=max made no diff.


looking more and more like a preamp problem.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/14256488
> 
> 
> Hello!
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob and others for your help regarding pulling up the video options menu. Pretty cool!
> 
> 
> I just changed speakers to av123 LS6 line sources, and they are not as efficient as my prior speakers... is there any way to change the reference level of the D2? So that I can adjust the volume that 0db on the Anthem actually is. I'd like to make 0db louder with my setup.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Get out your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter. Go into Setup / Level Calibration. Set the first line to Manual and scroll down to the next line, "Noise Level". You will now be hearing noise from the LF speaker. Set the Noise Level to 0dB. Measure that.


The SPL reading you have just measured corresponds to what a you would typically get with a main volume setting of -10dB during normal listening. A main volume setting of 0dB will, of course, be 10dB higher.


If you don't like the volume level you are getting, then raise the Noise Level until you get the volume you want. Now scroll down and adjust the volume trim for each speaker (including the subwoofer) to produce that same SPL reading at that Noise Level. Typically the volume trims will be + or - a few dB from 0dB either side of the Noise Level you just set. The trim setting for the LF speaker will be 0.0dB of course since you just used it to set the Noise Level.


If you discover that you can't get the volume you want out of your speakers without cranking up the Noise Level unreasonably high then you need more powerful power amps for your new, less efficient speakers. E.g., perhaps you need amps designed to operate into a 4 Ohm load instead of into an 8 Ohm load.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14257479
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 1. ps3 sound is setup properly
> 
> 2. buzzing is now coming out from the left speakers, front, side and rear. Fronts are using a separate amp from the side and rear.
> 
> 3.wiggled hdmi cables and buzzing did not stop. I even get it when switching to my SD DVD player which uses component and optical for sound. Pulling optical out made no diff.
> 
> 4. muting=max made no diff.
> 
> 
> looking more and more like a preamp problem.
> 
> 
> John



Yes, I think you need to give Anthem tech support a call at this point. It sounds to me like you have a hardware failure that is progressing.


It is barely possible that re-loading the V1.33 software is what you need to do, but talk to Anthem first in case they need to get some more info about your current setup.


The normal next step in diagnosing this would be to disconnect everything from the Anthem and reconnect only the bare minimum stuff to reproduce the problem, but let them walk you through that.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I have sent and email with all the details to Nick and suggested that I could bring it in to check. Thanks for your help.

John


----------



## The Bogg

Just ordered my ARC today. I had been holding off until the first bugs had been worked out. Plus, I thought that since I had a purpose-built room designed that it might not need the eq, but since some of the speaker positions are fixed I think a little eq will be a good thing. Time will tell.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14257689
> 
> 
> Just ordered my ARC today. I had been holding off until the first bugs had been worked out. Plus, I thought that since I had a purpose-built room designed that it might not need the eq, but since some of the speaker positions are fixed I think a little eq will be a good thing. Time will tell.



Not to worry. We've fired up a whole new production line of these...







...just for new ARC users!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well OK, so I just did a re-Calculation and re-Upload on my latest set of ARC Measurements using a Max EQ Frequency Target of 12KHz. These are the same ARC V1.2.2 Measurements, with the default 5KHz Target, that I've been using since my replacement subwoofer amp was installed.


And the early news is that I am *NOT* hearing the problems that I heard the last time I tried this back in the ARC V1.1 days! Back then, I heard a distinct harshness which was obviously wrong. That's when I asked Nick for advice and got the word that setting ARC to work above 5KHz was not a good idea.


So what I don't know is whether there's been a change between ARC V1.1 and ARC V1.2.2 that reduces the problem in my setup, or whether the ARC 1.1 Upload got corrupted back then, or what!


Now, it will take more time for me to decide whether this new setup is better than the 5KHz setup I have been using, or to find specific problems in it. But it is *NOT* obviously wrong.


The advice from Nick still makes a lot of sense to me. There is good logic on limiting ARC to 5KHz and below. So if there IS value in raising the Target above 5KHz, it may be limited to specific setups. I.e., I may just have lucked out. Or it may be that I'm just not hearing the problems yet.


Anyway: This one needs to go back on the "needs more investigation" pile!

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/14255413
> 
> 
> Here are my graphs showing the drop off at 5Khz..i.e. where ARC no longer corrects.



Those are very interesting frequency responses (before correction), especially the subwoofer and fronts. I am not sure whether I am seeing a response which is very flat (within the 60 to 75dB for the fronts) or a room which is very dead. The surrounds seem much more typical.


Anyway, everone sees this drop off at 5KHz since it falls back to the uncorrected frequency response above 5KHz so whatever dips and peaks your speakers / room have above 5KHz will not be corrected. This is perfectly normal and expected if you do not increase the 5KHz setting.


Just one more thought. Did you normalize all your speakers to a 75dB level at the main location before taking the ARC readings? It almost seems that your fronts and center are at a higher level (more energized) pre correction than the surrounds.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14257511
> 
> 
> Yes, I think you need to give Anthem tech support a call at this point. It sounds to me like you have a hardware failure that is progressing.
> 
> 
> It is barely possible that re-loading the V1.33 software is what you need to do, but talk to Anthem first in case they need to get some more info about your current setup.
> 
> 
> The normal next step in diagnosing this would be to disconnect everything from the Anthem and reconnect only the bare minimum stuff to reproduce the problem, but let them walk you through that.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Talked to Piero today after doing a fresh 1.33 install with no change. The initial thinking was that it is a software issue affecting the hdmi circuits. Was told Nick was waiting on some info from the design engineers which may have something to do with my problem. They may suggest an install of an earlier firmware. Will report back when I get an answer.

John


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14258655
> 
> 
> Those are very interesting frequency responses (before correction), especially the subwoofer and fronts. I am not sure whether I am seeing a response which is very flat (within the 60 to 75dB for the fronts) or a room which is very dead. The surrounds seem much more typical.
> 
> 
> Anyway, everone sees this drop off at 5KHz since it falls back to the uncorrected frequency response above 5KHz so whatever dips and peaks your speakers / room have above 5KHz will not be corrected. This is perfectly normal and expected if you do not increase the 5KHz setting.
> 
> 
> Just one more thought. Did you normalize all your speakers to a 75dB level at the main location before taking the ARC readings? It almost seems that your fronts and center are at a higher level (more energized) pre correction than the surrounds.



Thanks for the comments. Yes the speakers were normalized. I understand why the response above 5Khz isn't corrected but the 10db drop after the correction on my left front is what got me to thinking. I wonder what ARC would do if it tried to use 65db instead of 70 db for its reference line.


My room is heavily treated so I attribute a lot of this to the room. In fact the front of the room is treated heavier then the rear and side dipole surrounds. Another factor on the front response may be the powered woofer on my mains. (Rocket RS1000s) At some point I may turn the gain down a bit on the powered woofers and see what it does for the front response. I sent the files to Nick so I'll be curious as to what he says.


----------



## jviggi

_By the way, my experience with ARC is that THX post processing is far less valuable after setting up ARC. Listen to some decent source content with THX turned off and ARC turned on and see if you don't agree.

--Bob_

Thanks Bob,


I do notice for most, I prefer to have THX off. I have quite a few Hi-Def DVDA, SACD and many of the BluRay best rated audio movies. I love the sound!

Before ARC I had so many audio variables that I had a hard time deciding which one was correct. Now I only have the choice of THX Cinema or THX Off. My on screen display says 6 CHANNEL INPUT THX. I do not select THX when I am playing a disc. Do you have any idea how it is getting the THX setting? Perhaps it's a flag or something. I know that I had all the options prior to ARC but I must have had the setup wrong and now ARC has corrected it.

Also, I had room resonance filter on when I did the ARC measurements. The manual states that ARC bypasses it.Should I now go into the menu and turn it off. The menu shows it on but maybe it does not make any difference.

Again, thanks for all of your help.

I love ARC. The sound is so deep and full.

John


----------



## ensmarcum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14256340
> 
> 
> Boy, do you need ARC!!



Yeah, it works well with this system, although i am shocked that arc didnt set the crossovers at 80hz but lower on the speakers and at 120 on the sub. I think I am going to run it again soon.


----------



## ensmarcum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/14257058
> 
> 
> Nice looking cabinet. I like the finish. Years ago my old roomate and I made the one I'm using now but it doesn't look nearly that good.



cat, I made it out of pine from lowes, the cabinet quality kind. Took 1o cuts with my battery powered saw, some screws and glue, and stain. About two days of work.


Thanks!


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14237088
> 
> 
> Do not confuse the surround mode selections in that list with the ANALOG-Direct vs. ANALOG-DSP setting. ANALOG-DSP causes the input analog audio to be digitized and ENABLES whatever surround mode processing you select. There is no surround mode processing available if you have set the source to use ANALOG-Direct.
> 
> 
> The "NONE" surround mode selection does no surround mode processing on the input. E.g. a 5.1 source will not be expanded to 7.1 speaker output.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I can't answer your questions on the Reverse and Copy settings you asked about as I haven't played with those. You may need to send an email to Anthem tech support.
> 
> 
> From the manual, the Reverse function is only for the 6-ch analog input, and to make it work you must use an audio mode which DOES NOT act to raise the 5.1 channel input to 7.1 speaker output. The "None" mode would be appropriate for your case. You can set this as the default in the Setup / Mode Presets menu.
> 
> 
> If it is still not working when you do that, then you will need to give Anthem tech support a call. Last I heard the Reverse function WAS working correctly in the V1.1x and V1.2x software versions.
> 
> 
> ==============================
> 
> 
> ETA: At one point there was a "bug" -- or possibly this was intended behavior -- where setting the Reverse option ALSO changed which speakers got sent the Setup / Speaker Calibration test tones. I don't know if this has changed in the V1.3x software. The point is, verify correct operation by playing a disc, not by using the Setup / Speaker Calibration test tones.
> 
> --Bob



I sent the following to Nick at Anthem today:


I am resurrecting an e-mail chain that was from August 2006. I recently upgraded my D1 to a D1-HD and was hopeful that Sonic Frontiers would have corrected the S/R Reverse issue in the latest round of programming for the HD upgrade.


Nope – the issue has not been addressed.


In my general settings I have the S/R Reversed and the copy to surrounds off. I have switched the outputs to the amplifier as instructed and double checked this.


My setting for the 6-CH input for modes is “None”. (I checked and THX is off).


When I switch to the 6-CH mode the sound comes from the surround speakers, not the rears as it should. The display shows ANALOG-DSP and 5.1, but I can also tell the sound is processed with more than just the crossovers. I can enter the MODE, 7, 0 command at that time and it has no impact and no display change; however, if I enter the MODE, 7, 1 command (this switches the display to “THX Cinema” but what I am hearing does not change) followed by the MODE, 7, 0 command the output then changes from the surrounds to the rears and the “processing” disappears and the display changes back to “5.1”.


In addition, at that point if I switch to a different input (say CD) and then back to the 6-CH input the sound output is back to the surrounds instead of the rears and I have to go through the macro commands again to get the correct output back.


I am disappointed that this issue, which was known nearly two years ago, has not been addressed.


One other thing that would be nice to have is an ability to change on the fly or have a macro command to turn on/off the “copy surround to rears” function. Just a suggestion - my next step will be picking up the ARC upgrade.


Thank you,


Mike


It will be interesting to see the reply. Back in 2006 they acknowledged the problem after they tested it in-house and I was told it was sent to their programmers to address. Looks like the ball was dropped.


Response from Anthem - not what I wanted to hear - dissapointing to me, but understandable:


Hi Mike,


The Reverse and the Copy surround-rear functions have been slated for removal. They appeared in the AVM 20 v2.1 and have little relevance today.


The Copy function was added before Dolby Pro Logic IIx existed and the only role it served was trying Pro Logic II, a 5.1-channel mode into one that used all outputs. Two point sources for one signal is not a good idea because it results in combing but some people wanted it and we added it. The reason that it's taking this long to delete it is quite frankly it's low on the priority list. Video processing, HDMI, and room correction have dominated the mean time. Indeed when PLIIx appeared, moving Copy from the menu to the mode selection list was the first thought that came to mind and may still be done - it's more of a question of how many surround modes does one need before the list gets ridiculous.


As for the reverse function, it was born out of a tendency for some DVD-A users who had 7.1 speakers to want to use the rear surrounds instead of the side surrounds, so against our instincts gave them what they wanted (there is no reason a "music" system or mixing studio should be different from a "movie" one). I suspect the desire had something to do with how DVD-A was touted in its early days, calling for five identical full range speakers equally spaced from the listener. We saw that as unrealistic from the start and put the first and for quite a while the only processor on the market containing bass management, time alignment, and THX MusicMode on the analog multichannel-in (the AVM 20). The latter takes 5.1 input and turns it into 7.1 output without re-EQing. Since then, PLIIx Music mode has appeared to address the same sources although one main difference is that it emphasizes output from the side-surrounds rather than reducing their output so that overall level is the same with rear outputs combined.


Sorry to give you this news but it was just a little demand that brought them in and almost none left that's taking them out. Unrelated reasons in making this long standing decision (predates your last e-mail although fixing the bug was then a consideration) but with just as much impact if not more due to the disproportionate support involved are innumerable calls from new users* that do not set Rears to None with their 5.1 systems yet set Reverse to Yes, wondering why there's no surround, and to a lesser degree people looking for advice on how to use both direct and dipole for the sides, having them switch according to music vs movie, yet have the same amp channel connected to both (ultimately goes back to this... the system doesn't know whether it's playing music, a movie, or music in a movie soundtrack, and when blindfolded the majority prefers dipole surrounds when they're at a distance and in a room size that's typical at home - it makes no difference whether the sound is music or an explosion).


Solution to all of the above: Remove the two features. I hate to say this in response to your e-mail but in the last couple of years I've had no indication that more than one person is using either intentionally.


*to expand on the meaning of new user, it includes the new user of a used piece, for which tech support may already have been provided when the previous user used it


Best Regards,

Nick


----------



## clwhitlock

Bob,


Thanks for the reply and information . I knew it had to be something simple, but for some reason I thought the number box in the ARC speaker config applied only to the sub woofers. Anyway, I works great now and I couldn't be more please with the resulting sound. Chuck


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

The "how" is in the manual but been getting "why" questions since our first processor so here's a typical response for anyone wondering:


------------------------


It's confusing so let's go to the beginning, how studios and theaters have been set up since the mid-1970s: A noise recorded or generated at known level* would be used to set playback level so the resulting sound pressure is 85 dB (C-weighted). This noise is pink noise, i.e. wide-band random noise.


Different from that, the noise built into Dolby-licensed home theater processors is filtered pink noise which doesn't have much energy below 500 Hz or above 2 kHz, reason being so crossover settings and frequency response in reference to the vocal range don't affect the level setting. The main thing is balancing speaker levels in the vocal range. Like you said, the number of dB is irrelevant unless you want Dolby or THX do decide for you how loud to play the movie. In that case set levels so output from each speaker is 75 dB. If using ARC, set only the noise level to 75 dB and ARC will balance each speaker to that.


(As for the frequency range that ARC looks at to balance levels, it's neither full-band like the studio method nor vocal range like the HT method but something between. A 1 dB disagreement with the SPL meter method isn't unusual and nothing to worry about.)


Now that the system is set up, the big question - where do you set the volume control? 0 dB for playback according to Dolby, +3.5 dB for playback according to THX, or anywhere else according to your heart's desire. All this originated from setting level in theaters, where you can't control the volume unless you're in the projection booth (must be nice during trailers of the arrogant variety). The Dolby and THX levels used to be the same but a few years ago Dolby lowered it by 3.5 dB.


*On paper and in practice are two different things... noise source has to be measured in RMS and limited to the audio range, 22 Hz - 22 kHz. The tools used in studios don't always do that and errors of a couple of dB aren't unusual - yet another reason I wouldn't be overly concerned with trying to be exact about this, minor variations will always be there. Play it at the volume you feel like! (...at least without affecting the health of your equipment and especially your ears).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jviggi* /forum/post/14259810
> 
> _By the way, my experience with ARC is that THX post processing is far less valuable after setting up ARC. Listen to some decent source content with THX turned off and ARC turned on and see if you don't agree.
> 
> --Bob_
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> I do notice for most, I prefer to have THX off. I have quite a few Hi-Def DVDA, SACD and many of the BluRay best rated audio movies. I love the sound!
> 
> Before ARC I had so many audio variables that I had a hard time deciding which one was correct. Now I only have the choice of THX Cinema or THX Off. My on screen display says 6 CHANNEL INPUT THX. I do not select THX when I am playing a disc. Do you have any idea how it is getting the THX setting? Perhaps it’s a flag or something. I know that I had all the options prior to ARC but I must have had the setup wrong and now ARC has corrected it.
> 
> Also, I had room resonance filter on when I did the ARC measurements. The manual states that ARC bypasses it.Should I now go into the menu and turn it off. The menu shows it on but maybe it does not make any difference.
> 
> Again, thanks for all of your help.
> 
> I love ARC. The sound is so deep and full.
> 
> John



The THX post processing setting is something entirely within the Anthem -- it has nothing to do with the disc you are playing or the track you select on that disc.


To turn THX post processing on or off press the THX button on the remote and use the up or down arrows to toggle it.


Whether or not THX post processing is on, you can SEPARATELY decide whether the "THX Re-Equalization" function is on. To do that, press the THX button TWICE and then use the up or down arrows to toggle. Again, there are two settings here: Re-equalization when the rest of the THX stuff is on and re-equalization when the rest of the THX stuff is off. The setting is remembered separately per input source device AND per type of audio coming from that input source device.


See Section 4.8.6 of the Manual for an explanation of the various things that THX post processing offers -- noting carefully that some of them only happen if you have a 7.1 speaker setup.


The Setup / Mode Presets menu allows you to specify the default audio mode for each type of audio possible to be input from each individual source input device. Select a Source and view the list of audio types. Scroll to one of those and you can then cycle through the list of available defaults. Note that some of the defaults allow you to set a mode with or without THX post processing turned on. When you switch to a new source the audio mode goes to the default you have specified in Mode Presets for the type of audio currently coming in from that source. You can also specify "Last Used" which means do NOT automatically change audio mode when I switch to this source but just leave it at whatever was last used from any input source.


You do NOT have the option of specifying whether THX RE-Equalization is on or off by default in Mode Presets. So whether or not you specify THX as part of the default audio modes in Mode Presets, if you like to play with whether THX Re-Equalization is on or off it is wise to double check its current setting (press the THX key twice) when you switch to a new source or new type of audio from the current source (e.g. 2.0 input vs. 5.1 input).


The reason you are likely seeing the THX indicator when viewing your 6 channel PCM source (your Blu-Ray player?) is that you probably have THX included in the Mode Preset for 6 channel input from that source. And keep in mind that if you use the various overlayed inputs (e.g., DVD2 vs. DVD3 etc.) that EACH overlayed input definition gets its own separate set of Mode Presets as well. So check each set that you use.


ETA: Also NOTE that some audio modes (e.g., Mono-Academy) are *NOT* available if THX post processing happens to be turned on. So if you don't see an audio mode you expect to see, double check whether THX post processing happens to be on (press THX button once and toggle using the up or down arrows).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14259263
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Talked to Piero today after doing a fresh 1.33 install with no change. The initial thinking was that it is a software issue affecting the hdmi circuits. Was told Nick was waiting on some info from the design engineers which may have something to do with my problem. They may suggest an install of an earlier firmware. Will report back when I get an answer.
> 
> John



Interesting! If it turns out to be a software issue, I wonder why we are not getting more reports here since most posters are now on V1.33 (except for a few stick in the muds like DRHANKZ! Boy if it turns out he was correct to hold off on V1.33, he'll be impossible to live with!







).

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14260701
> 
> 
> Interesting! If it turns out to be a software issue, I wonder why we are not getting more reports here since most posters are now on V1.33 (except for a few stick in the muds like DRHANKZ! Boy if it turns out he was correct to hold off on V1.33, he'll be impossible to live with!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> --Bob



I'm always impossible to live with










I love reading about all the fun you guys are having.


Seriously = The only reason I am still on 1.11 is

because everything WORKS. I have not bought ARC

yet - so everything works just fine with 1.11.


Someday - I will upgrade


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14258655
> 
> 
> Just one more thought. Did you normalize all your speakers to a 75dB level at the main location before taking the ARC readings? It almost seems that your fronts and center are at a higher level (more energized) pre correction than the surrounds.



Keep in mind that the only volume value ARC depends upon is Setup / Speaker Calibration / Noise Level which it uses for setting the level of its sweep test tones. The other, individual speaker levels you set in there when you do a manual setup are zeroed out by ARC during its testing and then re-loaded with the level values that ARC calculates.


And of course ARC also depends upon the internal volume control setting you've made in any speaker that has its own powered amp and volume control -- most commonly your subwoofer.


In the pre-ARC setup process I wrote up a while back, I suggested setting the LF and subwoofer volume trims to 0dB just to avoid confusing yourself -- particularly while setting the subwoofer's internal volume control. But again, ARC itself only actually uses the value you specify in Noise Level. So if your actual speaker volume trim settings are flat out wrong, ARC will ignore and correct them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I did some more listening with the 12KHz ARC setup and still haven't found any problems. I'm not done testing this by any means, and I remain skeptical.


The Calculated curves show the biggest improvement above 5KHz in my Center speaker, and I believe the Center speaker is sounding cleaner. But I also think I may be hearing a dullness or deadness to the sound. Again, I've not really reached a conclusion yet. I need to listen to a wider range of content.


Nevertheless, this 12KHz setup is *NOT* obviously wrong as was the case when I tried this back in the ARC V1.1 days.


By the way, I just picked the 12KHz value out of a hat since that's what people have been talking about this time. When I tried this stuff under ARC V1.1 I used 10KHz. I also did a calculation at 20KHz back then, but noted some degradation in the Calculated results curves down at the lower frequencies when I did that, so I backed off to 10KHz to see if that would cure the harshness I was hearing. It didn't.


There really doesn't seem an obvious point in my Measured curves to set that Target if I don't go with the default 5KHz. So the 12KHz I'm using for this test is probably as good a choice as any.


I plan on posting some ARC charts here in a little bit.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

Bob, I've sent you a PM


----------



## Bob Pariseau

...and back at'cha!

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

Thanks for the info Bob, such wealth of knowledge from you is always welcomed. And yes I understand I can'\ play the PS3 on the 2nd tv. I don't wish to do this. Only the cable and SACD/DVD-A player will run through to the 2nd tv.


trev



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14256117
> 
> 
> Hook up the PS3 via HDMI to the AVM-50. Both audio and video will come in on that HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> Hook up the cable box via Component to the AVM-50. You can use Optical digital audio cable for audio if you select method (1) or (2) below and "COPY" Main audio to Zone 2, otherwise you must hook up BOTH an Optical digital audio cable for Main path audio input of DD5.1 cable TV programs AND a stereo analog RCA cable pair for Zone 2 path audio input.
> 
> 
> Hook up the projector to the Main AVM-50 HDMI output.
> 
> 
> The AVM-50 will convert the cable Component input to HDMI for your projector meaning you can watch either the PS3 or your cable box on the projector, with both converted to the Video Output you specify for your projector.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, hook up your second TV to the "Main or Zone 2" Component output of the AVM-50.
> 
> 
> In Setup / Video Output you can specify one of three things to go out that AVM-50 output to your second TV:
> 
> 
> 1) The source you select on the Main path, PROCESSED: Use this if your second TV can accept the same Video Output configuration you have specified for the projector. You can just use the audio on the Main path (the audio going to your normal surround speakers) if your second TV is in the same room as the projector, or you can "Copy" that to Zone 2, which means it is down-mixed to stereo and sent out the Zone 2 stereo outputs of the AVM-50 for your second TV in a different room. In the latter case, the Main and Zone 2 volumes can be separately controlled and separately muted, meaning you can select the Main source but leave the projector off and the Main volume muted and just get audio and video on your second TV.
> 
> 
> 2) The source you select on the Main path, UNprocessed: Use this if your second TV would work better getting the unprocessed video passed through from the cable box. The second TV would do its own scaling of that video input just as if you had the cable box connected to it directly. Audio is as in (1) above.
> 
> 
> 3) The source you SEPARATELY select on the Zone 2 path, UNprocessed: Use this if you want to simultaneously have different sources playing on the projector and on your second TV. The video going to the second TV will be unprocessed pass through from the source you select for it. Main path audio will go out the normal, surround sound audio outputs of the AVM-50. Use the AVM-50's stereo audio output jacks for Zone 2 to pass the selected Zone 2 source's audio to your second TV. Note that you must use stereo analog RCA jack audio input for your Zone 2 sources for this to work.
> 
> 
> Note that you can define up to 4 distinct Video Output configurations, so you could even switch between, say methods (2) and (3) on the fly by having them in separate Video Output configurations.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> NOTE: Copy protected HDMI input (as from the PS3 and just about every other interesting HDMI source device) can not be converted to Component output. When you select an HDMI input on the Main path, the Component output of the AVM-50 will be muted unless you have used method (3) above and selected a different (non-HDMI) input source for Zone 2. Which basically means you can't watch the PS3 on your second, Component video TV.
> 
> 
> But as long as you are OK not seeing the PS3 on the second TV, this hookup will get you what you want for the cable box (and other video sources like it) and both TVs.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## benleeys

Been meaning to ask this question for a while.


Ok, we are told that the measured freq response we see on the graph represents the overall average response from the various positions where we placed the mic.


What then does the calculated freq response represent? Assuming we are able to take measurements again after having uploaded the results and with EQ set to ON, will we be seeing the response as the calculated at EACH of the mic positions? Meaning that will we hear the same quality sound ANYWHERE WITHIN the area where measurements were taken from?

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14261447
> 
> 
> Been meaning to ask this question for a while.
> 
> 
> Ok, we are told that the measured freq response we see on the graph represents the overall average response from the various positions where we placed the mic.
> 
> 
> What then does the calculated freq response represent? Assuming we are able to take measurements again after having uploaded the results and with EQ set to ON, will we be seeing the response as the calculated at EACH of the mic positions? Meaning that will we hear the same quality sound ANYWHERE WITHIN the area where measurements were taken from?
> 
> -Ben



There will always be some residual variation between listening positions even with ARC, but ARC works to minimize that -- minimizing in particular the components of that which result from "room modes".


ARC sets a series of room correction steps in motion. Of course ARC can't predict where you will actually sit down in the listening room so the same room correction parameters are applied to the output of any given speaker without regard to where you are sitting. By taking measurements at several mic positions, ARC can detect the patterns of room response variation -- the room modes -- which would be expected to recur even at listening positions distinct from the specific set of mic locations you used. By reducing those, ARC increases the chance that EVERY seating position (in the area where you did the measurements) will give you the same good results -- barring of course the slight variations in volume and sound arrival timing when you sit closer or further from any given speaker.


The room correction stuff is just math of course.


That means it is possible to mathematically model what those correction parameters will do to any given frequency response curve coming out of each speaker. It is my understanding that the ARC "Calculated" curve does just that -- using the averaged Measurement curve as the one to evaluate. I.e., the ARC application feeds that averaged Measurement curve into the math it has set up as Room Correction parameters for that speaker. And the Calculated curve is what results.


So if you happened to sit in a portion of the room that heard precisely that Measurement curve from that speaker then the Calculated curve shows what you would now hear with ARC turned on. Of course since the Measurement curve is an average, it doesn't show what you would expect to hear from ANY seating position. But the combination of the Measurement curve and the resulting Calculated curve gives you a basis for seeing how well ARC is able to apply its resources to the problems inherent in your listening room.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14260701
> 
> 
> Interesting! If it turns out to be a software issue, I wonder why we are not getting more reports here since most posters are now on V1.33 (except for a few stick in the muds like DRHANKZ! Boy if it turns out he was correct to hold off on V1.33, he'll be impossible to live with!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> --Bob



Well this will be good news for drhankz. Nick said the hissing is a known problem with the AVM50 not D2. They are working on it. Howvever I will have to support drhankz in that 1.11e worked the best for me too, but I couldn't resist










John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here are the ARC charts I promised. All of these are based on the same set of Measurements with ARC V1.2.2 -- 5 mic positions spaced 30 inches apart (120 inches from end to end) in a slight arc in towards the screen for the outer two positions.


I've got charts for MAX EQ Frequencies of 5KHz (the default that I had been using), 12KHz (the new calculation that I'm using now), and 20KHz (another calculation that I just ran to see what the charts look like -- I've not Uploaded or listened to this one). Here are the Targets panels for the 5KHz, 12KHz, and 20KHz versions. As you can see, the only difference is the manual change I made for the MAX EQ Frequency:



























===============================================


The charts that now follow are for my "Movie" configuration. This is a 5.1 setup so the Left and Right surround curves will appear in both charts.


First up is the 5KHz version:



















=======================================


Next is the 12KHz version -- the one I'm actually listening to now:



















======================================


And now the 20KHz version. Note that the Center Speaker in particular shows more lower frequency variation in this version. Presumably this is due to ARC using its resources at the higher frequencies:



















======================================


For my "Music" configuration I have removed the Center Speaker. Presumably the differences between Movie and Music are somewhat due to slight variations in mic positioning for these two passes as well. But there is an interesting result here. Note that the Right Front speaker Calculated curve is smoother BELOW 5KHz in the 12KHz chart than in the 5KHz chart! Meanwhile the Left Surround speaker shows more oscillation in the 12KHz chart than in the 5KHz! I don't know whether this is meaningful or is just a limitation of the small amount of info that can be represented in one, averaged curve. The 5KHz Music configuration is first (I didn't include the second chart that just shows the subwoofer since there is no interesting change from the Movie charts above). The 12KHz Music configuration follows that:



















===================================


Of course the charts don't mean as much as how things actually sound in real use. I'll probably have more to say on that later.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14239126
> 
> 
> The latest word I have is that AVM-50 ARC Upgrade kits (including the required, dealer installable, hardware change) will start shipping before the end of July. No surprises on the Upgrade kit pricing -- roughly US$800 installed for both the hardware change and the ARC kit itself.
> 
> 
> Obviously none of this is cast in stone until the official word comes from Anthem. I've got some indication of closer to US$900 pricing, but I suspect that is just people being cautious -- much as when ARC upgrades for the D2 were being quoted (by dealers!) between US$400 and US$500 immediately prior to its release only to finally end up at US$399.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------
> 
> 
> If this ship date holds true, that should also mean that new, AVM-50 plus ARC "bundles" ought to be orderable "real soon now", too! I still have no details on what the "bundle" pricing will be. As best I can tell, Anthem has not yet put out a new dealer price sheet detailing this stuff.
> 
> 
> Nor do I have any confirmation yet that the AVM-40 ARC stuff is also happening at the same time, although it is pretty clear that ARC for the AVM-40 will definitely happen, and soon. In the past, Anthem has staggered builds for different models, so it may be that the AVM-40 related production will crank up after a few weeks of AVM-50 related production.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------
> 
> 
> As for next generation D2 (D3?) related stuff, there is very little useful information floating around right now. I suspect that CEDIA is too soon for an Anthem announcement although CES might work depending on how much change is involved in such a product.
> 
> 
> I also think it unlikely that such a change could be implemented as an "upgrade". That is, I think getting the new product would more likely require a trade-in.
> 
> 
> If anyone would care to pass on any new rumors to me about expected Anthem announcements at CEDIA this fall or CES in January, I'll be happy to "monger" them as appropriate (according to how much they seem to make sense).
> 
> --Bob



This is what was told to me by my sales person:


"Just received an e-mail from Anthem announcing their soon to be available

new ARC-1 Kit Plus for existing AVM 40's and AVM 50's! They are saying mid

July for availability. Based on the info we have now, your price will be

$709.95 Each kit ordered requires the serial # of the processor it is to be

installed in. I am not sure yet if we can do the upgrade here or if the

pre/pro has to be sent to them, but I will find out and let you know."


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Cool! I still haven't spotted anything on their web site.


It's also good to see they have the AVM-40 upgrade on the same date as the AVM-50 upgrade.


Did you by any chance get info from your dealer on what the bundle price (and availability) might be for someone ordering a *NEW* AVM-40 or AVM-50 with ARC?


-------------------------------


My understanding is that any Anthem dealer who was able to handle the old AVM-20 DSP board swap out should also be able to handle the swap out for the AVM-40 and AVM-50 ARC upgrade. So there's no need to send the unit to the factory.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I have been told it will be dealer installable. No need for cross border shipping except for the kit









John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14262996
> 
> 
> Cool! I still haven't spotted anything on their web site.
> 
> 
> It's also good to see they have the AVM-40 upgrade on the same date as the AVM-50 upgrade.
> 
> 
> Did you by any chance get info from your dealer on what the bundle price (and availability) might be for someone ordering a *NEW* AVM-40 or AVM-50 with ARC?
> 
> 
> -------------------------------
> 
> 
> My understanding is that any Anthem dealer who was able to handle the old AVM-20 DSP board swap out should also be able to handle the swap out for the AVM-40 and AVM-50 ARC upgrade. So there's no need to send the unit to the factory.
> 
> --Bob



I didn't ask about any bundle pricing or availability. I will let you know if I find out.


----------



## bluemark81

When you're passing a 1080p signal through the Anthem as in a Blue-Ray, is the Anthems Gennum processor doing anything to the signal?


----------



## jayray

Depends on your output setting to your display. If output form the ps3 is the same as the output to your display then nothing is done. Usually you set output from the ps3 to the Bluray's native resolution and let the anthem convert it to the native resolution of the display. Hope that helps.

John


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14262027
> 
> 
> There will always be some residual variation between listening positions even with ARC, but ARC works to minimize that -- minimizing in particular the components of that which result from "room modes".
> 
> 
> ARC sets a series of room correction steps in motion. Of course ARC can't predict where you will actually sit down in the listening room so the same room correction parameters are applied to the output of any given speaker without regard to where you are sitting. By taking measurements at several mic positions, ARC can detect the patterns of room response variation -- the room modes -- which would be expected to recur even at listening positions distinct from the specific set of mic locations you used. By reducing those, ARC increases the chance that EVERY seating position (in the area where you did the measurements) will give you the same good results -- barring of course the slight variations in volume and sound arrival timing when you sit closer or further from any given speaker.
> 
> 
> The room correction stuff is just math of course.
> 
> 
> That means it is possible to mathematically model what those correction parameters will do to any given frequency response curve coming out of each speaker. It is my understanding that the ARC "Calculated" curve does just that -- using the averaged Measurement curve as the one to evaluate. I.e., the ARC application feeds that averaged Measurement curve into the math it has set up as Room Correction parameters for that speaker. And the Calculated curve is what results.
> 
> 
> So if you happened to sit in a portion of the room that heard precisely that Measurement curve from that speaker then the Calculated curve shows what you would now hear with ARC turned on. Of course since the Measurement curve is an average, it doesn't show what you would expect to hear from ANY seating position. But the combination of the Measurement curve and the resulting Calculated curve gives you a basis for seeing how well ARC is able to apply its resources to the problems inherent in your listening room.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob, for the clarification.


If I understand you correctly, the various mic positions are simply data collecting maneuvers to determine room characteristics which are then compared to an ideal setting. The resultant differences are then applied to correct the current data (much like feedback correction in amps?). The end result is an improvement in terms of frequency response, with all its accompanying benefits (imaging, etc.), within the listening area, but doesn't necessarily change the physical charateristics (extension) of the area's 'sweet spot'.


One thought comes to mind. Surely this can also be simply done with a digital equaliser feature, much like the Velodyne SMS-1 which seems a lot more user friendly?


I do wish the ARC-1 would permit a measurement with EQ = ON. Users who have access to frequency measuring equipment should, however, be able to take independent readings and compare these with the calculated curve. It would certainly be interesting to see how successful this correction feature is, rather than basing our opinion on subjective listening.

-Ben


----------



## darkvisionsinc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14262915
> 
> 
> This is what was told to me by my sales person:
> 
> 
> "Just received an e-mail from Anthem announcing their soon to be available
> 
> new ARC-1 Kit Plus for existing AVM 40's and AVM 50's! They are saying mid
> 
> July for availability. Based on the info we have now, your price will be
> 
> $709.95 Each kit ordered requires the serial # of the processor it is to be
> 
> installed in. I am not sure yet if we can do the upgrade here or if the
> 
> pre/pro has to be sent to them, but I will find out and let you know."



Anyone know if they are going to include the AVM 30's in this?


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14266100
> 
> 
> One thought comes to mind. Surely this can also be simply done with a digital equaliser feature, much like the Velodyne SMS-1 which seems a lot more user friendly?



Yes and no. The live readouts are wonderful but they are limited display resolution. Also, one must add the multimic kit to sample more than one position with the SMS-1. Also, time-domain effects of the SMS-1 are not assessable with the provided equipment. Finally, SMS-1 is limited to the subwoofer channel.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14262915
> 
> 
> This is what was told to me by my sales person:
> 
> 
> "Just received an e-mail from Anthem announcing their soon to be available
> 
> new ARC-1 Kit Plus for existing AVM 40's and AVM 50's! They are saying mid
> 
> July for availability. Based on the info we have now, your price will be
> 
> $709.95 Each kit ordered requires the serial # of the processor it is to be
> 
> installed in. I am not sure yet if we can do the upgrade here or if the
> 
> pre/pro has to be sent to them, but I will find out and let you know."



This is a good news. The stuff is coming


----------



## barhoram

Now that I've run ARC a few time in my theater...I've got to thinking. I calibrate it with just the mike and stand in the theater room. However, 50% of use in the room is movie watching with just me added to the equation. 25% of use is movie watching with my wife and I, and 25% of movie watching is a full house of 6 people. Wonding how up to 6 extra bodies affect the results. Not that I would do this...but could one store 3 data sets in the software and update as the situation calls for? I may have to get some dummy seat fillers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14266100
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob, for the clarification.
> 
> 
> If I understand you correctly, the various mic positions are simply data collecting maneuvers to determine room characteristics which are then compared to an ideal setting. The resultant differences are then applied to correct the current data (much like feedback correction in amps?). The end result is an improvement in terms of frequency response, with all its accompanying benefits (imaging, etc.), within the listening area, but doesn't necessarily change the physical charateristics (extension) of the area's 'sweet spot'.



Not at all. Taming the room response is a major factor in increasing the sweet spot -- making sure all listening positions hear the same high quality audio. ARC does a great job of this. In a normal listening room you can get significant variations, particularly in bass response, across the length of a sofa. ARC dramatically reduces or eliminates that.


Keep in mind that the frequency response curves shown in the ARC charts are only one small measure of what it accomplishes. Listen to what ARC produces. Trust your ears.


As to your SMS-1 question, I have a DD series Velodyne subwoofer which incorporates the technology of the the SMS-1 plus digital servo feedback. The automatic EQ setup in that Velodyne stuff doesn't come anywhere CLOSE to what ARC does for you. And if you take the time to work with the Velodyne stuff manually to get the best you can achieve (think WEEKS of trial and error here), you end up with a good result -- much better than what its automatic system produces -- but still not even close to as good as what ARC produces.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darkvisionsinc* /forum/post/14266118
> 
> 
> Anyone know if they are going to include the AVM 30's in this?



So far, the AVM-30 units have been conspicuously absent from every mention I've seen on this. I don't know why.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14267502
> 
> 
> Now that I've run ARC a few time in my theater...I've got to thinking. I calibrate it with just the mike and stand in the theater room. However, 50% of use in the room is movie watching with just me added to the equation. 25% of use is movie watching with my wife and I, and 25% of movie watching is a full house of 6 people. Wonding how up to 6 extra bodies affect the results. Not that I would do this...but could one store 3 data sets in the software and update as the situation calls for? I may have to get some dummy seat fillers



Not in the current D2 software. And Uploading different ARC setups probably takes longer than most people would want to wait (about 5 minutes).


Although you could probably measure differences with lab tools, so far I haven't detected any variation in audio with or without people in the room that's anywhere near as dramatic as the fundamental corrections ARC provides. In other words, don't worry about it. With a reasonable number of people sitting down to watch you will still get ARC audio that everyone likes. And if the room is full of people for a party, it doesn't really matter since nobody is doing critical listening anyway. What's much more important is whether you are inside or outside the surround "sound field".

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Hi Guys,

I know you've touched on this subject before, but could you explain again the logic behind running the ARC only to the 5kHz level.

Logically, since we hear from @ 20Hz to 20kHz it would seem to make sense to do the calibration spanning the normal hearing range.

What am I missing?

How many of you all have tried running ARC at more than 5kHz, and what were your impressions?

Tom


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14267604
> 
> 
> ...... Trust your ears ....



Ughh ... not when you are afflicted with tinnitus like me ...











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14267604
> 
> 
> .....As to your SMS-1 question, ..... still not even close to as good as what ARC produces.



Point taken. Thanks again, Bob. Just found my SMS-1 manual-eq is dead







(self-eq still works, though) when I tried to take new measurements after having additional bass traps and diffusers installed. Sighhh .... so now I have to rework the ARC to do without it.

-Ben


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14267113
> 
> 
> Yes and no. The live readouts are wonderful but they are limited display resolution. Also, one must add the multimic kit to sample more than one position with the SMS-1. Also, time-domain effects of the SMS-1 are not assessable with the provided equipment. Finally, SMS-1 is limited to the subwoofer channel.



Agreed, Kal, but I was just, for the sake of discussion, using the SMS-1 as an example. To do a ARC-1 style will of course require an equaliser that covers the whole frequency spectrum and a lot more freq adjustment points. I don't know if you're ancient enough







to remember the SAE eq/preamp unit which I used to own. Digital didn't quite exist as yet and all we had was our pair of ears.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14267801
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I know you've touched on this subject before, but could you explain again the logic behind running the ARC only to the 5kHz level.
> 
> Logically, since we hear from @ 20Hz to 20kHz it would seem to make sense to do the calibration spanning the normal hearing range.
> 
> What am I missing?
> 
> How many of you all have tried running ARC at more than 5kHz, and what were your impressions?
> 
> Tom



ARC uses the measurements at the different mic positions to distinguish between room response (varies by location) and inherent speaker performance (doesn't vary by location). The correction stuff that ARC does depends upon its ability to make this distinction.


But higher frequencies of audio are increasingly "directional". The pattern of output from each speaker (distribution across the listening area) is less uniform as the frequency goes up. The spread horizontally and vertically is also different. And the same is true for reflections of the audio.


That means ARC will hear variations at the different listening positions that have to do with directionality rather than room modes. Thus it will be mislead into doing the wrong type of correction.


It is amazing that ARC works as well as it does up as high as 5KHz.


---------------------------------------


Anyway, that's the theory. Various posters (including me) are starting to experiment with a higher frequency Target. Nick at Anthem remains quite firm in his advice that you should *NOT* raise the Max EQ Frequency Target above 5KHz. Even though raising it may make the Calculated curves look better, that result can be misleading if ARC is basing its calculations on bad data -- variations at the mic positions due to directionality.


Despite that, we already have a few posters here who state that a higher frequency setting is helping in their listening rooms. This is a developing story. Stay tuned. Film at 11:00.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14267882
> 
> 
> Agreed, Kal, but I was just, for the sake of discussion, using the SMS-1 as an example. To do a ARC-1 style will of course require an equaliser that covers the whole frequency spectrum and a lot more freq adjustment points. I don't know if you're ancient enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to remember the SAE eq/preamp unit which I used to own. Digital didn't quite exist as yet and all we had was our pair of ears.-Ben



I do recall the SAE. Just a multiband PEQ (forget GEQ) alone is insufficient, you need to determine the decay characteristics of the modes and know how to deal with them, it is not simple plug-and-play. Take a look at the RoomEQ Wizard Software to get an appreciation of what is involved.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14267952
> 
> 
> Anyway, that's the theory. Various posters (including me) are starting to experiment with a higher frequency Target. Nick at Anthem remain quite firm in his advice that you should *NOT* raise the Max EQ Frequency Target above 5KHz. Even though raising it may make the Calculated curves look better, that result can be misleading if ARC is basing its calculations on bad data -- variations at the mic positions due to directionality.



The 'directionality' has both to do with the mic and with the speakers. In my case, all (many!) measurements were unanimous in finding an HF roll-off on the right speaker, something that I had detected by ear before measuring. In this case, increasing the HF target limit had the salubrious effect of restoring tonal balance across the front three speakers, something that was as audible as expected.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Kal,

How high up did you end up going? And did you spot any issues (in the charts or by ear) in the lower frequencies as a consequence?

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc

BTW, flipping through the setup menus yesterday and thought of a question. Is it necessary to input the distances from speakers to listening areas if you are using ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/14268568
> 
> 
> BTW, flipping through the setup menus yesterday and thought of a question. Is it necessary to input the distances from speakers to listening areas if you are using ARC?



Yes.


The correct speaker distances and the correct subwoofer Polarity and Phase settings have to be entered manually in the Setup menu. You can do this either before or after taking ARC Measurements without having to re-Measure, re-Calculate, or re-Upload your ARC results. The ARC stuff will just sound better after you have made these manual adjustments.


Do not fiddle with the Speaker Configuration / Cross Over settings or the Speaker Calibration level settings after Uploading ARC results or you will screw up what ARC has set up. In particular, make sure you Save User and/or Installer Settings after Uploading ARC results so that you don't accidentally screw up these settings by Reloading from one of those memories.


Other settings such as Center EQ, Room Resonance Filter, and THX Ultra2 Subwoofer (with Boundary Gain Compensation) are ignored for sources where ARC is active (i.e, where Room EQ = ON is set). The ARC stuff supersedes those simpler correction tools.


If you have more than one subwoofer and have been using "2 subwoofers" in the Setup / Speaker Configuration, ARC will change that to 1 subwoofer when you Upload ARC results. Leave it set that way.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14268433
> 
> 
> Kal,
> 
> How high up did you end up going? And did you spot any issues (in the charts or by ear) in the lower frequencies as a consequence?
> 
> --Bob



Audibly, I had to go to a minimum of 10kHz to get what I needed and increases beyond that sounded the same. I have not carefully examined the charts for each but I will.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14268617
> 
> 
> Other settings such as Center EQ, Room Resonance Filter, and THX Ultra2 Subwoofer (with Boundary Gain Compensation) are ignored for sources where ARC is active (i.e, where Room EQ = ON is set). The ARC stuff supersedes those simpler correction tools.



Can I add a Room Resonance Filter to the ARC corrections? (I will try this weekend, anyway.)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14268667
> 
> 
> Can I add a Room Resonance Filter to the ARC corrections? (I will try this weekend, anyway.)



I haven't done the experiment to confirm this, but the updated V1.3x manual (Section 3.15) says that the Room Resonance Filter is one of the things that is automatically disabled (i.e., the settings are ignored) for sources where Room EQ = ON is set.


ETA: Even though the Filter itself gets disabled, I don't know what happens if you run the test tones offered in the Room Resonance Filter menu. I.e., I don't know if those test tones would be modified by the ARC stuff or would bypass ARC. If they DO go through the ARC stuff that might be an interesting way to double check the ARC corrections in the region below the cross over.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14268689
> 
> 
> I haven't done the experiment to confirm this, but the updated V1.3x manual (Section 3.15) says that the Room Resonance Filter is one of the things that is automatically disabled (i.e., the settings are ignored) for sources where Room EQ = ON is set.
> 
> --Bob



I will try it. My LF waterfalls show that, while ARC has a substantially positive effect on room modes, an additional single frequency reduction would be useful.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Presuming you can't get the Room Resonance Filter to combine with ARC, that might be a reasonable application for something like the SMS-1 in conjunction with ARC.


You might want to ask Nick to run your results by the ARC designers to find out why that one room mode wasn't tackled.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14268725
> 
> 
> I will try it. My LF waterfalls show that, while ARC has a substantially positive effect on room modes, an additional single frequency reduction would be useful.



I agree. If possible this should be re-enabled in the next version.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14267882
> 
> 
> Agreed, Kal, but I was just, for the sake of discussion, using the SMS-1 as an example. To do a ARC-1 style will of course require an equaliser that covers the whole frequency spectrum and a lot more freq adjustment points. I don't know if you're ancient enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to remember the SAE eq/preamp unit which I used to own. Digital didn't quite exist as yet and all we had was our pair of ears.
> 
> -Ben



I think Kal's point was the TIME-domain stuff - which simple EQ does not affect (much) - may be the key differentiator in the Arc-1.


Or maybe that's just my belief and I'm projecting.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/14269249
> 
> 
> I think Kal's point was the TIME-domain stuff - which simple EQ does not affect (much) - may be the key differentiator in the Arc-1.
> 
> 
> Or maybe that's just my belief and I'm projecting.



You got it.


----------



## Massimo N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14262118
> 
> 
> Well this will be good news for drhankz. Nick said the hissing is a known problem with the AVM50 not D2. They are working on it. Howvever I will have to support drhankz in that 1.11e worked the best for me too, but I couldn't resist
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I am having this issue too. I upgraded my AVM30 to the AVM30-HD back in mid May and when I got it back I was getting this hiss (along with some other wierd issues). This was with the earlier firmware 1.31


Brought the unit back, they replaced the DSP board, returned the unit to me with 1.33 installed and the problem was still their (although not as severe). My hissing/buzzing happens the loudest out of the front left speaker, but it is present on all channels.


After many tests to isolate the issue (originally suggested it was my projector) we concluded it was the AVM as I was able to duplicate the problem with no output connected at all and only one HDMI cable from one player to the AVM, and tested it with 4 different players. Drove down to Anthem (about 1hour's drive for me), brought a couple of my players and was able to duplicate the problem for them. We even tested with their DVD player and was able to duplicate the issue.


I'm told now it might be a software issue and patiently waiting. It is really annoying as it happens when there is a break in the HDMI signal ... whether changing HDMI sources, the chapter breaks at the beginning of a DVD or HD DVD, some menu changes on a DVD.


They have my unit to test with now so hopefully they will have a resolution soon. My movies are stacking up in my backlog as my theater has been down for just over 7 weeks now










Anthem support has been great in trying to resolve this issue but I want my theater up and running again.


----------



## jayray

Massimo,


Well I wondered how long it would take for someone else with the AVM50 to pipe in. Sorry your theater is down. Nick said they believed it was software and they were working on it. Here's hoping they figure it out soon. My hissing is on the left side only, like a stroke







muting subdues it but today I noticed muting turned it off but when mute was removed the sound was still there. Also got it very loud today when I shut the pj off and the ps3 still playing. Suggests something to do with HDMI implemention in the software/fimware. If I hear anything from them I will pm you and if you could do that it would be appreciated.


John


----------



## Massimo N

Thanx John ... I will let you know as soon as I find anything out. Since they have my AVM, my test scripts and they know how to duplicate the problem I am hoping that they will get a solution quickly.


----------



## cpcat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14262118
> 
> 
> Well this will be good news for drhankz. Nick said the hissing is a known problem with the AVM50 not D2. They are working on it. Howvever I will have to support drhankz in that 1.11e worked the best for me too, but I couldn't resist
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I'm still at v1.31 with my AVM50 and no real issues. What was v1.33 supposed to add anyway?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cpcat* /forum/post/14271108
> 
> 
> I'm still at v1.31 with my AVM50 and no real issues. What was v1.33 supposed to add anyway?



You will need to go to V1.33 if you want to get the ARC upgrade for the AVM-50.


Other than that, the changes are cosmetic (slightly different text in the status displays) plus one significant fix to the long-standing problem some folks were having with the Anthem incorrectly powering itself off just as it finishes power on.


If you aren't having that power on problem, and don't intend to get the ARC upgrade right away, there's no rush for you to go to V1.33.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This AVM-50 HDMI source related hiss problem must be connected with some particular configuration of the hardware or I think we'd have heard more complaints in this thread by now.


So Question: Who here has upgraded their AVM-50 to V1.33 and is *NOT* having a loudish hiss problem from one or more speakers when the audio stream changes from an HDMI source, or when there should be no audio coming from an HDMI source? Let's see if we can figure the odds that upgrading a random AVM-50 to V1.33 is likely to result in this problem.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14267952
> 
> 
> ARC uses the measurements at the different mic positions to distinguish between room response (varies by location) and inherent speaker performance (doesn't vary by location). The correction stuff that ARC does depends upon its ability to make this distinction.
> 
> 
> But higher frequencies of audio are increasingly "directional". The pattern of output from each speaker (distribution across the listening area) is less uniform as the frequency goes up. The spread horizontally and vertically is also different. And the same is true for reflections of the audio.
> 
> 
> That means ARC will hear variations at the different listening positions that have to do with directionality rather than room modes. Thus it will be mislead into doing the wrong type of correction.
> 
> 
> It is amazing that ARC works as well as it does up as high as 5KHz.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Anyway, that's the theory. Various posters (including me) are starting to experiment with a higher frequency Target. Nick at Anthem remains quite firm in his advice that you should *NOT* raise the Max EQ Frequency Target above 5KHz. Even though raising it may make the Calculated curves look better, that result can be misleading if ARC is basing its calculations on bad data -- variations at the mic positions due to directionality.
> 
> 
> Despite that, we already have a few posters here who state that a higher frequency setting is helping in their listening rooms. This is a developing story. Stay tuned. Film at 11:00.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the great explanation. I had a little extra time today so I decided to do a completely unscientific, totally subjective test. I took my last ARC reading and copied it to 3 different files. I left everything the same, (x-overs, room gain) and changed only the 'max eq frequency'.

I set #1 to 5kHz, #2 at 10kHz and #3 at 20kHz. I then played 3 songs from a familiar cd, playing thru analog-dsp in stereo (fronts and subs) in each of the 3 ARC configurations.

In my totally subjective opinion I liked the 5 kHz best, the 20kHz a close second, and the 10kHz third.

The 5kHz and 20kHz were close enough that I did a second run-off between those two and still liked the 5kHz the best.

Totally subjective. My ears, my room, my equipment, my opinion. But IMHO Nick is right.

If I get another slow day when I have too much time on my hands I may try lowering the 'max eq freqencies', 1kHz, 2.5kHz and 5kHz, and see what I think. Until then I think I'll just enjoy the excellent sound of the D2/ARC.

Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14271195
> 
> 
> This AVM-50 HDMI source related hiss problem must be connected with some particular configuration of the hardware or I think we'd have heard more complaints in this thread by now.
> 
> 
> So Question: Who here has upgraded their AVM-50 to V1.33 and is *NOT* having a loudish hiss problem from one or more speakers when the audio stream changes from an HDMI source, or when there should be no audio coming from an HDMI source? Let's see if we can figure the odds that upgrading a random AVM-50 to V1.33 is likely to result in this problem.
> 
> --Bob



I had this problem prior to 1.33. It has just gotten a little worse since but that may be totally unrelated to 1.33.


John


----------



## Massimo N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14271455
> 
> 
> I had this problem prior to 1.33. It has just gotten a little worse since but that may be totally unrelated to 1.33.
> 
> 
> John



Same with me ... but I'm on the AVM30-HD and had this issue as soon as I got it back after the upgrade (from AVM30 to AVM30-HD) with 1.31 installed (it went back after exhaustive testing and documenting on my part) and back again from Anthem with 1.33 (I brought it back to Anthem again after round 2 of detailed testing and troubleshooting).


My config is really basic, and at one point in the testing I just configured the necessities to get it up and running and the issue still persisted. If anyone is interested I will share what my setting were.


If this was a really widespread issue I'd think that a lot more people would be posting. My gut is telling me it's a hardware issue, but I'm anxiously awaiting what the final diagnostic is.


----------



## jayray

Massimo,

if that is the case, I'm only 10 min. away from Anthem so it'll be there real fast










You might want to pm. me with your setup or post it here so I can compare it to mine.


John


----------



## barry burman

Most of the posters have said that their x-overs were higher then they thought they should be,after ARC, mine seem low. (movie) [email protected] right are set at 40 , center at 90 surrounds at160 sub at .100 (music) left @right 65 sub 100 I have Martin Logan across the front with L/R having 10'' drivers and a 10'' velodyne and a 15'' paradigm servo. What do you guy's think. Room gain is movie 3.59 music 3.02


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barry burman* /forum/post/14272729
> 
> 
> Most of the posters have said that their x-overs were higher then they thought they should be,after ARC, mine seem low. (movie) [email protected] right are set at 40 , center at 90 surrounds at160 sub at .100 (music) left @right 65 sub 100 I have Martin Logan across the front with L/R having 10'' drivers and a 10'' velodyne and a 15'' paradigm servo. What do you guy's think. Room gain is movie 3.59 music 3.02




Nope, My sub setting is at 75(lr40,c45,lrs65,rears65) gain at .597614


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barry burman* /forum/post/14272729
> 
> 
> Most of the posters have said that their x-overs were higher then they thought they should be,after ARC, mine seem low. (movie) [email protected] right are set at 40 , center at 90 surrounds at160 sub at .100 (music) left @right 65 sub 100 I have Martin Logan across the front with L/R having 10'' drivers and a 10'' velodyne and a 15'' paradigm servo. What do you guy's think. Room gain is movie 3.59 music 3.02



With my Summit/Stage/Passage/Descent-i setup, the x'overs are fixed at 40/45/40/70Hz with room gain at 3.94.


X'over for the surrounds seems a bit low at 40Hz (specs show 69Hz +/-3dB), but graphs show surprisingly good response down to 25Hz probably due to mounting effect. Center at 45Hz is spot on specs which is also a bit unusual as one would have thought it should be a bit higher as graph indicates bass diminishing from around 50Hz. Fronts look quite normal as they are supposed to go down to 24Hz and the graphs show they do. Room is well treated.

-Ben


----------



## ajeruns

Don't know if this is the same problem other AVM 50 owners are describing, but;


Back in March 08, I was experiencing a loud screeching/hissing/popping sound coming from my speakers whenever the Oppo synced with the AVM-50. It did not happen everytime, and it was unpredictable. The only way to get it to stop was to turn the equipment off or switch inputs. After a while, I noticed this problem started with my Toshiba XA2 and Panasonic BDP-10A synced with the AVM-50. I was runninng 1.12s. I e mailed Anthem and they recommended upgrading to the latest firmare, which I did (don't remember the firmware version). Anyways, the problem was greatly reduced after the uprade, but every great once in a while I'll get the hissing/popping noise with the Oppo, not the Toshiba or Panny.


----------



## benleeys

Bob,


From the comparison I made of my subwoofer, wouldn't you agree that I am better off with SMS-1 active?


The lift at 25Hz without it has apparently caused the ARC to extend the lower bass rather noticeably at the expense of upper bass. In both instances, the x'over was set at 70Hz.

-Ben


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/14273936
> 
> 
> Don't know if this is the same problem other AVM 50 owners are describing, but;
> 
> 
> Back in March 08, I was experiencing a loud screeching/hissing/popping sound coming from my speakers whenever the Oppo synced with the AVM-50. It did not happen everytime, and it was unpredictable. The only way to get it to stop was to turn the equipment off or switch inputs. After a while, I noticed this problem started with my Toshiba XA2 and Panasonic BDP-10A synced with the AVM-50. I was runninng 1.12s. I e mailed Anthem and they recommended upgrading to the latest firmare, which I did (don't remember the firmware version). Anyways, the problem was greatly reduced after the uprade, but every great once in a while I'll get the hissing/popping noise with the Oppo, not the Toshiba or Panny.



It sounds alot like the present problem. Switching sources does turn it off as mute does sometimes. The syncing is definitly conncected as anytime I do menu changes, or start from a pause, especially with my XA2, or fast forward or especially go into the anthem setup menu I get it. This produces perhaps the loudest sound so far. To some extent mine has gotten worse with firmware or it is just a progressive problem that may lead to failure of some hardware. Who knows, hopefully anthem will solve it.

John


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14274197
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> From the comparison I made of my subwoofer, wouldn't you agree that I am better off with SMS-1 active?
> 
> 
> The lift at 25Hz without it has apparently caused the ARC to extend the lower bass rather noticeably at the expense of upper bass. In both instances, the x'over was set at 70Hz.
> 
> -Ben



I'm not Bob, but I'd bet dollars to donuts that the sound without the SMS would be better to your ears than the measurably flatter response with the SMS. The goal for "enjoyable" sound is not necessarily a flat response from 20hz to 20khz. Did you try listening both ways and what did YOU think? The ARC is not aiming for a flat response, it's choosing a response for pleasing sound based on their research, iirc.


----------



## nine ball

*AND NOW FOR SOMETHING DIFFERENT.......*


I want to get a set of headphones/inear phones/ear buds which will give me the best acoustic experience with my D2. Although, speaker system selection is a definitive personal experience, I'm pretty sure that exceptional headphones are probably more limited in sheer number of reasonable candidates and there is likely a uniform consensus on who the top three might be. I'm interested in any strong recommendations there might be from members of this thread who for what its worth are, dare I say it, mature balanced perspectives for the most part.


The D2 is my preferred device but there are times when I travel and I'm wondering if the same recommended choice would apply to the IPOD generation or whether that would constitute a second different set. Cost aside, I am interested in sincere recommendations for the best match for my D2.


Thanks in advance to any or all who take the time to respond.


Peter


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14275227
> 
> 
> I'm not Bob, but I'd bet dollars to donuts that the sound without the SMS would be better to your ears than the measurably flatter response with the SMS. The goal for "enjoyable" sound is not necessarily a flat response from 20hz to 20khz. Did you try listening both ways and what did YOU think? The ARC is not aiming for a flat response, it's choosing a response for pleasing sound based on their research, iirc.



Am actually in 2 minds on which sounds better.


As noted from the graph, the bass goes much lower without SMS-1. It is also quite obvious from an SACD disc featuring the Mormon Tabernacle Choir where the pipe organ 'growled' so loudly on a sustained low note that it left me feeling rather naeuseous. I don't remember hearing this before when the SMS-1 was on.


Anyway, my point is whether the low end is a bit out of control without the aid of the SMS-1 even though I must admit it does sound impressive. After all, we are after accurate rather than 'pleasing' sound reproduction, no?

-Ben


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14275457
> 
> 
> Am actually in 2 minds on which sounds better.
> 
> 
> As noted from the graph, the bass goes much lower without SMS-1. It is also quite obvious from an SACD disc featuring the Mormon Tabernacle Choir where the pipe organ 'growled' so loudly on a sustained low note that it left me feeling rather naeuseous. I don't remember hearing this before when the SMS-1 was on.
> 
> 
> Anyway, my point is whether the low end is a bit out of control without the aid of the SMS-1 even though I must admit it does sound impressive. After all, we are after accurate rather than 'pleasing' sound reproduction, no?
> 
> -Ben



I agree with The Bogg. I just sold my SMS-1 last week because the sound is much improved without it using my ears. also I have tried the Arc settings at 5k,10k,12k,and 20k. I do notice a much more boomy and less articulate bass at everything above 5k. Also I feel if the sound is pleasing it is accurate to me. Also if your subs are to near a wall or corner it will also increase the boominess. When I had my SMS before the ARC I set up a very flat response and soon bypassed it and used it only for setup of sub location and phase. After that I used it in bypass mode #6. So much for flat graphs. Just my .02.


Dick


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14275457
> 
> 
> Anyway, my point is whether the low end is a bit out of control without the aid of the SMS-1 even though I must admit it does sound impressive. After all, we are after accurate rather than 'pleasing' sound reproduction, no?
> 
> -Ben



That depends. Are you trying to enjoy it or measure it?










There's no reason that "enjoyable" sound has to be bloated or flabby or whatever. It's just subtle deviations from "flat" that improve the whole listening experience. We all have our own preferences so you have to use your own discretion about what to do with eq. I'm a "minimalist" when it comes to eq etc... My speakers are quite "neutral" and sometimes it leads to a bit of disappointment with some recordings. Other times it's a thing of beauty.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14274197
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> From the comparison I made of my subwoofer, wouldn't you agree that I am better off with SMS-1 active?
> 
> 
> The lift at 25Hz without it has apparently caused the ARC to extend the lower bass rather noticeably at the expense of upper bass. In both instances, the x'over was set at 70Hz.
> 
> -Ben



Oviously you have much more 20-30 hertz energy without the SMS-1 prior to ARC. Why is it being lowered so much by the SMS1?


I have a different processor for m sub, I use a BIAMP MSP-11 single channel 34 band PEQ. What I do is to measure via ARC and adjust via the PEQ. It works beautifully. When I see a peak of 4 dB at a certain freq., I just select the frequency,determine the bandwidth and lower the gain. When I do another ARC cycle measurements, the Peak is gone!. I think I used 8 filters to make my Sub room response 22 to 120 +/-1.5dB.


I know the SMS1 can be manually adjusted, why don't you try it and have the subwoofer curve determined by ARC as your guide.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14276395
> 
> 
> Oviously you have much more 20-30 hertz energy without the SMS-1 prior to ARC. Why is it being lowered so much by the SMS1?
> 
> 
> I have a different processor for m sub, I use a BIAMP MSP-11 single channel 34 band PEQ. What I do is to measure via ARC and adjust via the PEQ. It works beautifully. When I see a peak of 4 dB at a certain freq., I just select the frequency,determine the bandwidth and lower the gain. When I do another ARC cycle measurements, the Peak is gone!. I think I used 8 filters to make my Sub room response 22 to 120 +/-1.5dB.
> 
> 
> I know the SMS1 can be manually adjusted, why don't you try it and have the subwoofer curve determined by ARC as your guide.



Yea, it's an idea to fiddle with. Set up with SMS-1, run ARC, then fine tune with SMS-1. Or run ARC, then fine tune with SMS-1. Thanks for the suggestion.


Basically though, I am more concerned with the shift of the ARC calculated response peak from 50Hz down to 25Hz whereas peak for the other speakers remains at about 80Hz. Means there's a more pronounced dip between them and I don't think it's a good idea to fiddle with that with the SMS-1.


But we're deviating from my original question, and that is, from comparision of the 2 subwoofer graphs, whether it would be advisable for me to discard the SMS-1 and rely solely on the ARC.

-Ben


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14275801
> 
> 
> ... There's no reason that "enjoyable" sound has to be bloated or flabby or whatever....



You said it! The calculated deviation from target between 20Hz and 30Hz together with the shift in sub peak from 50Hz down to the 20-30Hz region most likely contributed to overemphasize the low bass which caused my discomfort. So now, seems I'd better put the SMS-1 back in circuit.

-Ben


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/14275278
> 
> *AND NOW FOR SOMETHING DIFFERENT.......*
> 
> 
> I want to get a set of headphones/inear phones/ear buds which will give me the best acoustic experience with my D2. Although, speaker system selection is a definitive personal experience, I'm pretty sure that exceptional headphones are probably more limited in sheer number of reasonable candidates and there is likely a uniform consensus on who the top three might be. I'm interested in any strong recommendations there might be from members of this thread who for what its worth are, dare I say it, mature balanced perspectives for the most part.
> 
> 
> The D2 is my preferred device but there are times when I travel and I'm wondering if the same recommended choice would apply to the IPOD generation or whether that would constitute a second different set. Cost aside, I am interested in sincere recommendations for the best match for my D2.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance to any or all who take the time to respond.
> 
> 
> Peter



Put the AKG701's on your audition list. I've had a pair for about a year and they work great with the D2 IMHO.

They work well with the D2, since the D2 has a built-in headphone amp. They are comfortable, sound great, and are Stereophile A rated. The price the AKG's is very reasonable for cans that sound this good.

They do not work well with iPod's, unless paired with an amp, though.

Tom


----------



## dwwhitley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darkvisionsinc* /forum/post/14266118
> 
> 
> Anyone know if they are going to include the AVM 30's in this?



I'm not sure about the AVM 30 (without video upgrade). However, I have been told that the AVM 30-HD will be included.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/14275278
> 
> *AND NOW FOR SOMETHING DIFFERENT.......*
> 
> 
> I want to get a set of headphones/inear phones/ear buds which will give me the best acoustic experience with my D2. Although, speaker system selection is a definitive personal experience, I'm pretty sure that exceptional headphones are probably more limited in sheer number of reasonable candidates and there is likely a uniform consensus on who the top three might be. I'm interested in any strong recommendations there might be from members of this thread who for what its worth are, dare I say it, mature balanced perspectives for the most part.
> 
> 
> The D2 is my preferred device but there are times when I travel and I'm wondering if the same recommended choice would apply to the IPOD generation or whether that would constitute a second different set. Cost aside, I am interested in sincere recommendations for the best match for my D2.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance to any or all who take the time to respond.
> 
> 
> Peter



Shure E4c are great earbuds. Haven't tried them with the D2 though.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Good info on headphones and ear-buds can be found here:

http://www.headphone.com/ 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14263855
> 
> 
> When you're passing a 1080p signal through the Anthem as in a Blue-Ray, is the Anthems Gennum processor doing anything to the signal?



Yes. There is no, real "pass through" for HDMI signals as if the Anthem were only some sort of HDMI source switching device.


If your source is sending a 1080p signal and you have specified 1080p at the same frame rate for output, then there is no need for the Gennum to do scaling or frame rate conversion. But the Gennum still processes the video.


It will convert the input to 30bits/pixel RGB. In the course of that, Color Space conversion and input video level adjustments will be applied as specified in Video Source Adjust / Picture. If the input is not 1080p it will be scaled up to 1080p prior to any additional processing. The input will be cropped as you specify in the Video Source Adjust / Crop menu -- application of Edges for example, or a custom crop to extract only a portion of the input video to be passed on to the scaler. Now Scaling will be applied according to Video Source Adjust / Scaling and the relative shape of the input video stream and the output you have specified in Setup / Video Output. If both the (cropped) input and the output are 1920x1080p then no work gets done here. Then Gamma Correction gets applied as specified in Video Source Adjust / Output, and Frame Rate conversion as necessary. Finally the output Color Space and Data Format conversions get done as necessary as specified in Setup / Video Output. If you are sending YCbCr to your display as is common in most current, HDMI, 1080p displays, then the Gennum converts its internal RGB data format to that for output.


Any multi-channel audio embedded in the HDMI input is stripped out and replaced by a 2-channel stereo down-mix intended for use with the internal stereo speakers of an HDMI TV.


At a lower level, the output signal is regenerated rather than just being switched from the input. Among other things, that means cable length restrictions start over since the output signal is being newly generated. A separate HDMI handshake happens for the output and copy protection is preserved separately for the output.


So there's really rather a lot that goes on even though the input and output video both happen to be 1080p.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've still got my 12KHz ARC setup installed. And I've still not found any specific problems with it. I'm not SURE I like it better than the 5KHz setup yet. But I can't put my finger on why. Every time I try to catch it doing something SPECIFIC wrong I end up liking the 12KHz result better, but I've still got this lingering suspicion that there is still SOMETHING I like better about the 5KHz. It may be a matter of familiarity -- I've been listening to the 5KHz setups for over a month now.


So I'll keep trying to find something the 12KHz is screwing up, but for now, based on my experience in my setup, I can't spot any obvious reason why folks shouldn't experiment with raising the MAX EQ Frequency Target in ARC if they want to take the time.


I may have to install the 20KHz result to see if it has obvious flaws. That might help me spot more subtle flaws of the same nature in the 12KHz setup.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14278055
> 
> 
> Yea, it's an idea to fiddle with. Set up with SMS-1, run ARC, then fine tune with SMS-1. Or run ARC, then fine tune with SMS-1. Thanks for the suggestion.
> 
> 
> Basically though, I am more concerned with the shift of the ARC calculated response peak from 50Hz down to 25Hz whereas peak for the other speakers remains at about 80Hz. Means there's a more pronounced dip between them and I don't think it's a good idea to fiddle with that with the SMS-1.
> 
> 
> But we're deviating from my original question, and that is, from comparision of the 2 subwoofer graphs, whether it would be advisable for me to discard the SMS-1 and rely solely on the ARC.
> 
> -Ben




Ben,


I looked at your graphs again and it looks like you are better off without the SMS 1. SMS1 decreases your 20 to 30 herts output by 10 dB and ARC can manage only around a cut of 6 dB, the resulting curve(with ARC engaged) is better without it.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14281902
> 
> 
> Ben,
> 
> 
> I looked at your graphs again and it looks like you are better off without the SMS 1. SMS1 decreases your 20 to 30 herts output by 10 dB and ARC can manage only around a cut of 6 dB, the resulting curve(with ARC engaged) is better without it.



Wasn't that an SMS-1 bug that was fixed?


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14281902
> 
> 
> .....SMS1 decreases your 20 to 30 herts output by 10 dB and ARC can manage only around a cut of 6 dB, the resulting curve(with ARC engaged) is better without it.



That's because I reduced the peak at 25Hz by 12dB with the SMS-1 to try and cure the horrible room resonance. Maybe if I were to cut the reduction by, say, just 6dB .... yes, worth a try. Be back after remeasurements.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Looking at your charts without the SMS-1 -- have you got your sub in a corner? It looks like it is suffering from a severe case of "boundary gain".


Repositioning it, even just a few inches, may do more to fix that 25Hz problem than anything else.


Also, you can't just look at ARC's subwoofer charts in a vacuum. You need to see what ARC has to do to the main speakers as well near the cross overs. I found with my Velodyne DD-15 that having its internal EQ working hard up near the cross over was causing issues ABOVE the cross over which you couldn't really see in the Velodyne's own charts but which ARC was picking up and having to fix in that transition region.


Finally, make sure you are using the latest D2 and ARC software (D2 V1.33 and ARC V1.2.2) to insure that you are getting good Uploads of ARC results to the D2. I think the ARC-only results don't look to me like they should sound all that bad.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike

I did a few searches on this thread and I have an elementary question about ARC that was probably answered already - but I could not find the answer.


Can the ARC EQ be turned on or off for any mode except for analog direct (where I assume it is always off).


In other words, if you have the 6-CH input set to AnalogDSP with processing as "None", then the ARC is still engaged?


Thank you,


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mike,

Yes. Don't confuse the "surround sound processing" audio modes with ARC. Think of ARC more like the volume trim and cross over setting controls in the Setup menu -- just a whole lot more sophisticated.


In Setup / Source Setup you will find a Room EQ line for each Source you define. Once you have Uploaded results from the ARC application to the D2 the Room EQ = ON setting enables the ARC room correction processing for that Source (and disables other, simpler audio correction tools you would use in a manual setup such as the "Room Resonance Filter").


This will apply to digital audio input and to ANALOG-DSP audio input regardless of the surround sound processing audio mode you are currently using.


ARC will not apply to ANALOG-DIRECT audio input just as all other forms of audio processing are bypassed for that type of audio. ARC does its processing in the digital audio domain, and ANALOG-DIRECT audio inputs are never digitized. They are just passed through to the pre-amp (main volume control) portion of the D2 for output.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14286844
> 
> 
> In Setup / Source Setup you will find a Room EQ line for each Source you define. Once you have Uploaded results from the ARC application to the D2 the Room EQ = ON setting enables the ARC room correction processing for that Source (and disables other, simpler audio correction tools you would use in a manual setup such as the "Room Resonance Filter").



BTW, my tests were only "by ear" but it seems that the RRF is active (if turned "ON") even with ARC. Did not have the inclination to measure yet.


----------



## barhoram

Just saw that one can engage/disengage ARC on the fly via an RS-232 command. I'm going to set up a button on my RTI remote to toggle so I can do some A/B listening tests.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Should be easy enough to test. I can run the Velodyne DD-15's internal test sweep for a source with Room EQ = ON and see if Room Resonance Filter ON/OFF makes any difference in what the Velodyne's mic chart shows. But I won't be able to try this for a while.


[For folks who don't know, the DD-15 sends out its test sweeps as a normal stereo analog audio signal that gets processed in the D2 (set to Stereo audio mode) and sent back out just like any other, normal, stereo audio content to the DD-15 and to the Main Front speakers according to how the cross overs, etc. are currently set in the D2. The DD-15 includes a calibrated mic to pick up the result and displays a chart via an S-video output of whatever that mic hears. The chart runs from subsonic frequencies up to just above the cross over.]


Similarly, we should be able to confirm that it is REALLY the case that the THX Ultra 2 Subwoofer and Boundary Gain Compensation settings have no effect if Room EQ = ON is set for a given source.


-----------------------------------------


If we discover that any of these *ARE* still active with ARC engaged then that raises a couple issues. First, is it a bug? And second, is it important how these are set when you do the ARC Measurements?


As I said, I can't get to this right now. If anyone else with a setup similar to what the DD-15 offers would like to try this and report back we might get the answers faster. The Boundary Gain Compensation will effect the very lowest frequencies (easily picked up in the Velodyne chart), and a deep enough and narrow enough Room Resonance Filter should also be obvious in the chart if it is, in fact, still active. Just toggle those settings ON/OFF in the D2 (while leaving ARC turned on) and see if any changes appear.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14287311
> 
> 
> Just saw that one can engage/disengage ARC on the fly via an RS-232 command. I'm going to set up a button on my RTI remote to toggle so I can do some A/B listening tests.



I posted a long post on this a week or so back, but the short story here is that doing an A/B test this way does *NOT* compare the best that ARC can do with the best that you could do in a manual setup.


Room EQ = ON/OFF only engages the ARC Room Correction stuff (and supposedly also toggles Room Resonance Filter and the like). It does *NOT* re-adjust levels and cross overs to take best advantage of what you might have done with them and the other simpler tools like Room Resonance Filter.


That is, turning Room EQ = OFF will produce audio that is somewhat biased by the portions of ARC's calculated setup that are still active -- in particular, ARC's choice of speaker levels and cross overs. For example, it looks to me like ARC deliberately overlaps cross overs but then compensates for that in the Room Correction parameters. When you turn off the Room EQ, you lose that compensation -- but the cross over overlaps remain in place! This may give a false impression that ARC is better than it really is compared to what you could achieve in a fully manual setup.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14286617
> 
> 
> Looking at your charts without the SMS-1 -- have you got your sub in a corner? It looks like it is suffering from a severe case of "boundary gain".
> 
> 
> Repositioning it, even just a few inches, may do more to fix that 25Hz problem than anything else.



No Bob, the sub is located more than 4' away from the side walls near my front speakers. That horrid 25Hz is my room resonance, I think because my front speakers have that too (which I tamed by adjusting a 25Hz pot to minimum).



> Quote:
> Also, you can't just look at ARC's subwoofer charts in a vacuum. You need to see what ARC has to do to the main speakers as well near the cross overs. I found with my Velodyne DD-15 that having its internal EQ working hard up near the cross over was causing issues ABOVE the cross over which you couldn't really see in the Velodyne's own charts but which ARC was picking up and having to fix in that transition region.



Please see the rest of the graphs below. Noticed that the sub's ARC peak has changed from 50Hz down to 25Hz without the SMS-1. There's no change in the low frequency slopes of the rest of the speakers.



> Quote:
> Finally, make sure you are using the latest D2 and ARC software (D2 V1.33 and ARC V1.2.2) to insure that you are getting good Uploads of ARC results to the D2. I think the ARC-only results don't look to me like they should sound all that bad.
> 
> --Bob



Am using D2 v1.31c and ARC-1 v1.2.4. The upload went without a hitch on my newer PC this time.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Hmmm. Living in a kettle drum?










Actually it looks to me like ARC is doing a really great job out to 5KHz given what it is hearing. The worst deviation left in your subwoofer is less than 3dB. Velodyne, for example, tells its subwoofer customers not to sweat deviations under 3dB. Even the Left Surround is only hot by 5dB at 25HZ (which is probably seeing very little content due to the cross overs).


You might want to double check that your Center speaker doesn't have Richard Syndrome -- loss of a woofer?


My guess is that since your room modes are so severe, you may be hearing more than usual room response variations at different listening positions even after ARC is turned on. Applying some bass room treatment materials may be your only good recourse. But there are others posting here who have far more expertise in taming tricky rooms than I have.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14287842
> 
> 
> No Bob, the sub is located more than 4' away from the side walls near my front speakers. That horrid 25Hz is my room resonance, I think because my front speakers have that too (which I tamed by adjusting a 25Hz pot to minimum).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please see the rest of the graphs below. Noticed that the sub's ARC peak has changed from 50Hz down to 25Hz without the SMS-1. There's no change in the low frequency slopes of the rest of the speakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am using D2 v1.31c and ARC-1 v1.2.4. The upload went without a hitch on my newer PC this time.
> 
> -Ben



Ben,


Are you're front speakers toed-in? It seems tha t you are loosing too much high freq. beyond 5k. If you have not done so, why not toe-in the fronts directly to your main seat and run ARC again. Just a thought.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14229752
> 
> 
> The Flash Eraser is on the password protected download site. So they just have to point you at that.
> 
> 
> But as usual, I recommend people do NOT use Flash Eraser until instructed to do so by Anthem tech support because it may wipe out important clues they can use to figure out what happened -- i.e., to keep it from happening again.
> 
> --Bob



Just to update Bob and others, I ran the Flash Eraser and re-installed v. 1.33 and my ARC files and the D2 is up and running strong again! I also downloaded a new software update for my PS3 (v. 2.41) before watching Blu-ray again, as the notoriously buggy v. 2.36 PS3 software release seemed to coincide with my Anthem software crash/freeze up. Thanks for the help Bob, and the rest!


Mike


----------



## barry burman

The other night I turned on the TV and got picture but no sound, on the HD channels. Sound was there on the standard channels. MY system is a bell express view with hdmi to my anthem. I switched to optical cable and got

sound. Any ideas? The system worked before . I also tried a new hdmi cable.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14288091
> 
> 
> Hmmm. Living in a kettle drum?



You should have heard the sound before SMS-1 and ARC!. It's actually quite superb now, better than most systems that I've heard without these 2. Currently I'm just nitpicking.



> Quote:
> You might want to double check that your Center speaker doesn't have Richard Syndrome -- loss of a woofer?



No, it's actually working fine. Matter of tilting it to the correct angle (unlike cones, electrostatics tend to beam). I've been experimenting with various angle.



> Quote:
> My guess is that since your room modes are so severe, you may be hearing more than usual room response variations at different listening positions even after ARC-1 is turned on. Applying some bass room treatment materials may be your only good recourse. But there are others posting here who have far more expertise in taming tricky rooms than I have.
> 
> --Bob



My room is now actually quite extensively treated with bass traps and diffusers ($7k worth). Problem is the 25Hz region is most difficult to suppress, especially in a sizable room like mine which has ceiling height shelves for discs and storage built on both sides. Most traps are not very effective there. That's why SMS-1 and ARC-1 are godsend.

-Ben


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barry burman* /forum/post/14291287
> 
> 
> The other night I turned on the TV and got picture but no sound, on the HD channels. Sound was there on the standard channels. MY system is a bell express view with hdmi to my anthem. I switched to optical cable and got
> 
> sound. Any ideas? The system worked before . I also tried a new hdmi cable.



Barry,


It could be your TV tuner. I had a similar problem, but somewhat in reverse. My TWC SA 8300 DVR is connected to my D1-HD with only the HDMI. My DVR is set to "passthrough" the signal - basically if the source is 480i, it outputs 480i, and so on. When the DVR was outputting 480i or 480p I received no sound. But if it was outputting 720p or 1080i I had sound. If I switched the procesding to output a minimum 720p regardless of the input signal to the DVR, then I received sound.


I checked to make sure that the D1-HD did not have a problem with sound on 480i or 480p signals by setting my PS3 to output 480i (or 480p) via HDMI and the D1-HD had no problems.


I contacted TWC and talked to them about the problem, and they had me reboot and that was no help and then they ran through the settings with me and that was no help, so they recommended I trade my DVR in for a new model.


The long story short - it may be your source equipment not properly coding the sound - or it could be that we both have something set wrong on or D2's!


Mike


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14289092
> 
> 
> Ben,
> 
> 
> Are you're front speakers toed-in? It seems tha t you are loosing too much high freq. beyond 5k. If you have not done so, why not toe-in the fronts directly to your main seat and run ARC again. Just a thought.



The gradual loss of hi-freq above 5kHz that you are seeing is most probably the result of the beaming nature of electrostatics, unlike cones. That's why the sweet spot us usually relatively smaller. Within it, the sound is detailed and natural, something that is quite different from box speakers. Placing the measuring mic too far outside the sweet spot means it will fail to capture a substantial amount of the hi-freq. Since the ARC-1 graph is a composite of measurements from 5 different spots, each at least 20" away from its preceding spot, you end up with what you are seeing. I did try to confine my measurements from within spot, and it was very smooth to 20kHz, (but Anthem does not recommend that).


I could increase the toe-in of the speakers to show a better hi-freq response, but I will sacrifice on sound stage at the sweet spot, which at the moment with minimal toe-in is fantastic. By the way, the surrounds are non-electrostatics, hence the highs look quite reasonable.

-Ben


----------



## The Bogg

There's a nice ARC review on ultra audio (part of soundstage), fyi.


----------



## RIppolito

Mike,


I have an AVM 50, and I get the same 'no sound from 480i or 480p' situation from my SA8300HD DVR. I really like using the passthrough, because the Anthem does a better job in upconversion than the cable box does. I get around the sound problem by using a coax cable: not too elegant, but it works.


Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*CONFIRMED: As Documented, ARC Disables/Ignores Older Setup Menu EQ Options*


I did the tests with my Velodyne DD-15 as described yesterday, and I was able to confirm that ARC does, indeed, disable/ignore the Room Resonance Filter, THX Ultra 2 subwoofer, and subwoofer Boundary Gain Compensation settings in the Setup / Speaker Configuration menu for sources where Room EQ = ON is set after Uploading ARC results.


(Center EQ is supposedly also disabled/ignored, but the Velodyne's test sweep tones don't go high enough for me to confirm that.)


There is no change at all in the Velodyne's charted test curves regardless of how you set those older EQ tools. With Room EQ = OFF (i.e, with ARC's room correction processing disabled), those older EQ tools are functional again.


All of this is in accordance with the ARC documentation: See Section 3.15 of the updated V1.3x Operating Manual.


NOTE: I did *NOT* do re-Measurements as part of this, so I can not confirm that any settings that might be in place for these older EQ tools are ignored by ARC during its Measurement phase. However, the documentation states that you can ignore those Setup menu settings if using ARC, and I'm pretty sure that means not only during normal listening after the fact but also during ARC Measurements, i.e., when setting up ARC to begin with.


I do know from my current ARC Measurement charts that my subwoofer is showing the sharp rise as the Measured curve drops down towards 20Hz that is characteristic of Boundary Gain -- even though I have THX Ultra 2 subwoofer and Boundary Gain Compensation turned on in the Setup menu. Based on prior experiments I've done using the Velodyne test system, I know how much Boundary Gain Compensation would reduce that if the filter was mistakenly being applied during ARC Measurements.


So even though I didn't actually do ARC Measurements both ways to nail this down, I think this is pretty good evidence that ARC is, indeed, *NOT* applying Boundary Gain Compensation during its Measurements -- as of course it should not since ARC's solution to that issue is much more general and sophisticated than the simple, "one size fits all" filter applied by the Boundary Gain Compensation setting. I.e., you want ARC to see the real problem down there, so that ARC can handle all the necessary correction, rather than what's left after Boundary Gain Compensation is applied.


-----------------------------------


I know there were some who were hoping the Room Resonance Filter could be applied on top of the ARC stuff -- possibly during ARC Measurements, or possibly after the fact. I'm not really sure that's a good idea since I don't know how a simple parametric filter (as used in the Room Resonance Filter) would interact with what ARC is actually doing. But in any event, the current documentation is correct: The Room Resonance Filter is NOT applied for sources where Room EQ=ON is set to enable ARC's more general room correction processing.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14295093
> 
> 
> There's a nice ARC review on ultra audio (part of soundstage), fyi.



thanks, Bogg,

here's the link:


http://www.ultraaudio.com/twbas/twbas_20080715.htm


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14296873
> 
> *CONFIRMED: As Documented, ARC Disables/Ignores Older Setup Menu EQ Options*
> 
> 
> I did the tests with my Velodyne DD-15 as described yesterday, and I was able to confirm that ARC does, indeed, disable/ignore the Room Resonance Filter, THX Ultra 2 subwoofer, and subwoofer Boundary Gain Compensation settings in the Setup / Speaker Configuration menu for sources where Room EQ = ON is set after Uploading ARC results.
> 
> 
> (Center EQ is supposedly also disabled/ignored, but the Velodyne's test sweep tones don't go high enough for me to confirm that.)
> 
> 
> There is no change at all in the Velodyne's charted test curves regardless of how you set those older EQ tools. With Room EQ = OFF (i.e, with ARC's room correction processing disabled), those older EQ tools are functional again.
> 
> 
> All of this is in accordance with the ARC documentation: See Section 3.15 of the updated V1.3x Operating Manual.
> 
> 
> NOTE: I did *NOT* do re-Measurements as part of this, so I can not confirm that any settings that might be in place for these older EQ tools are ignored by ARC during its Measurement phase. However, the documentation states that you can ignore those Setup menu settings if using ARC, and I'm pretty sure that means not only during normal listening after the fact but also during ARC Measurements, i.e., when setting up ARC to begin with.
> 
> 
> I do know from my current ARC Measurement charts that my subwoofer is showing the sharp rise as the Measured curve drops down towards 20Hz that is characteristic of Boundary Gain -- even though I have THX Ultra 2 subwoofer and Boundary Gain Compensation turned on in the Setup menu. Based on prior experiments I've done using the Velodyne test system, I know how much Boundary Gain Compensation would reduce that if the filter was mistakenly being applied during ARC Measurements.
> 
> 
> So even though I didn't actually do ARC Measurements both ways to nail this down, I think this is pretty good evidence that ARC is, indeed, *NOT* applying Boundary Gain Compensation during its Measurements -- as of course it should not since ARC's solution to that issue is much more general and sophisticated than the simple, "one size fits all" filter applied by the Boundary Gain Compensation setting. I.e., you want ARC to see the real problem down there, so that ARC can handle all the necessary correction, rather than what's left after Boundary Gain Compensation is applied.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> I know there were some who were hoping the Room Resonance Filter could be applied on top of the ARC stuff -- possibly during ARC Measurements, or possibly after the fact. I'm not really sure that's a good idea since I don't know how a simple parametric filter (as used in the Room Resonance Filter) would interact with what ARC is actually doing. But in any event, the current documentation is correct: The Room Resonance Filter is NOT applied for sources where Room EQ=ON is set to enable ARC's more general room correction processing.
> 
> --Bob




This is a good thing, having to deal with two set of settings would be confusing. This makes our life easier. Turn on the EQ and forget about other setting.


Meanwhile, we need to be careful with this when we do with and without EQ comparisons. To do a proper comparison, we should ensure that for the EQ off listening, all settings are to their optimum. If not the comparison become unfair biases toward the EQ On results.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The install notes for ARC V1.2.4 (on the password protected download site) have just been modified. The "changes" from V1.2 now read as follows:



> Quote:
> Changes:
> 
> 
> v1.2.4:
> 
> 
> 1. Added ARC to AVM 30-HD, AVM 40 and AVM 50. These models require new DSP hardware to run ARC. If so equipped, "AVM 40/ARC" or "AVM 50/ARC" is displayed at power-on. Software v1.33 or later required.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed problem occurring if subwoofer level would be out of range, preventing upload.



This is the first confirmation I've seen that the AVM-30-HD will be upgradeable to add ARC (as makes sense since it is, after all, the equivalent of an AVM-50). But note that there is *STILL* no indication that the unmodified AVM-30 will be upgradeable to add ARC -- short of also doing the more expensive AVM-30 to AVM-30-HD upgrade as well.


Note also that the power on sequence will identify an AVM unit that has had the DSP hardware upgrade added. Presumably this is true even before you do your first Upload of ARC results to it.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14302833
> 
> 
> The install notes for ARC V1.2.4 (on the password protected download site) have just been modified. The "changes" from V1.2 now read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first confirmation I've seen that the AVM-30-HD will be upgradeable to add ARC (as makes sense since it is, after all, the equivalent of an AVM-50). But note that there is *STILL* no indication that the unmodified AVM-30 will be upgradeable to add ARC -- short of also doing the more expensive AVM-30 to AVM-30-HD upgrade as well.
> 
> 
> Note also that the power on sequence will identify an AVM unit that has had the DSP hardware upgrade added. Presumably this is true even before you do your first Upload of ARC results to it.
> 
> --Bob



It just make sense that this be also available for AVM-30-HD Owner. I also guess that further conversion of the AVM-30 to AVM-30-HD should include the new DSP boards.


----------



## jayray

Bob,


where on the protected site is the 1.2.4 file. downloaded link1 and nothing in there.

John


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14303743
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> where on the protected site is the 1.2.4 file. downloaded link1 and nothing in there.
> 
> John




Try Link 7 (Test)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's in the "Test" folder -- Link 7. Normally I would suggest people steer clear of stuff in the Test folder since that's where Nick puts special versions specific to problems he is diagnosing for particular owners. But we've had posts here that a few current ARC users were told to use ARC V1.2.4 to fix their problem getting subwoofer levels to Upload properly, so it appears to be in good shape and will probably become the official release shortly after Anthem finally goes public with the AVM ARC Upgrade program.


However, if you are a D1 or D2 ARC user who is NOT having problems getting his ARC application to complete the Upload of ARC results, then there is no reason to go to ARC V1.2.4 at the moment. It doesn't fix anything else as far as I know.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

ASW and Bob,

thanks. I have the AVM50 so it is likely I will need this version when the time comes.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Remember that if you install it now, you will need to manually copy the two licensing/calibration files from your ARC Upgrade kit CD to the Programs folder where it gets installed before it will actually work. Alternatively, your Upgrade kit CD will likely contain ARC V1.2.4 and you can just install that one -- it will delete the prior install and transfer the two required files as part of the new install.


==============================


ETA: For folks using the default, AVS posts/page setting, this thread just hit 500 pages. Whew!









--Bob


----------



## jayray

I know, seems like I have read 450 of them and 150 of them were about ARC










Will not install 1.2.4 until I have the DSP installed and ready for ARC. Very exciting.


John


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14305301
> 
> 
> I know, seems like I have read 450 of them and 150 of them were about ARC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will not install 1.2.4 until I have the DSP installed and ready for ARC. Very exciting.
> 
> 
> John



There will definitely be another version out, as 1.2.4 is a test or beta version. I'd advise waiting until you have the upgrade and the Arc-1 in hand. You will get a CD and the program on that will be more up-to-date than 1.24.


----------



## jayray

Hoping to have the DSP installed next week and I will definitely wait for whatever cd I get with it. I have read just about everything on ARC and will be very careful about the install and of course the measurements. Will report when it is done.

John


----------



## jayray

In the meantime I have done some experimenting with my AVM50 which has the buzzing in the left channels. I changed each source from autodig=no to YES. Now the buzzing has a shorter duration and when I go into the setup menu I don't get the buzzing. The cable box seems to sync faster. Also noticed the buzzing stops as soon as a video signal is established. All using HDMI except for SD DVD player.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

"Twas the night before August, when all thro' the house,

Not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse;

The speakers were hung by the chimney with care,

In hopes that the ARC Kit soon would be there!

The children were nestled all snug in their beds,

While visions of Blu-Ray discs danc'd in their heads,

And Mama in her 'kerchief, and I in my cap,

Had just settled our brains for a long summer's nap-

When out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,

I sprang from the bed to see what was the matter.

Away to the window I flew like a flash,

Tore open the shutters, and threw up the sash.

The moon on the breast of the newly mown heath,

Gave the lustre of mid-day to objects beneath;

When, what to my wondering eyes should appear,

But a minature truck of Canadian beer,

With a little old driver, so lively and quick,

I knew in a moment it must be St. Nick!

A wink of his eye and a twist of his head

Soon gave me to know I had nothing to dread.

He spoke not a word, but went straight to his work,

And install'd the upgrade; then turn'd with a jerk,

And laying his finger aside of his nose

And giving a nod, up'd the volume and rose.

He sprung to his truck, grabbed a beer, gave a whistle,

And away he sped off, like the down of a thistle:

But I heard him exclaim, ere he drove out of sight-

Happy ARCing to all, and to all a good night!"


--Bob (can't teach an old doggerel new tricks) P.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14306600
> 
> 
> In the meantime I have done some experimenting with my AVM50 which has the buzzing in the left channels. I changed each source from autodig=no to YES. Now the buzzing has a shorter duration and when I go into the setup menu I don't get the buzzing. The cable box seems to sync faster. Also noticed the buzzing stops as soon as a video signal is established. All using HDMI except for SD DVD player.
> 
> 
> John



Changing autodig to YES means the audio switches to the analog input whenever the digital input goes silent -- as during the change when you switch inputs. That's why the duration is shorter. There is definitely a problem on your digital audio input, and probably on the HDMI portion of that.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I've emailed *St. Nick* about this thinking more info about the behaviour might help.


Things must be slow here on the Anthem thread, poetry?










John


----------



## benleeys

Don't know if this is a new issue with ARC so am hoping that someone out there could confirm one way or another.


I have a Denon SACD player hooked up to my D2 6-ch input.

D2 settings as follows-

Audio In = Analog-DSP

Bass Manager = Movie

Room EQ= On

ARC measurements are made thus -

Movie = 5.1 ch

Music = 2 ch (ie without the sub)


Problem was experienced only on one 1 disc so far -

The Sound of Glory

Mormon Tabernacle Choir

Telarc SACD-60579


While playing with Movie setting and EQ on, the bass was unusually loud and uncomfortably resonating. Switching EQ off was a blessed relief and everything sounded very normal. Switching to Music with EQ on was horrible - the sound was twice as loud from the front speakers and muffled. Everything sound very normal again when EQ was switched off.


Strangely, the few other SACD discs I have do not exhibit this problem, as are all my CDs. I don't think it is the disc's fault because switching EQ off with either Music or Movie setting did not exhibit the problem - it only happens when EQ is on.


So the question - Is there something unusual with this particular disc which does not go down well with ARC?

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The only thing I can think of is that this specific disc has a ridiculous amount of subsonic bass that ARC is exposing, but which is concealed by the subsonic filter when ARC is turned off -- perhaps leading to your bass drivers bottoming out. You might want to do a search in the content (software) forums here and see if there are any comments about this disc.


But your best bet is probably to give Anthem tech support a call. They will likely want you to email them your ARC Measurements&Calculations file.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14313185
> 
> 
> The only thing I can think of is that this specific disc has a ridiculous amount of subsonic bass that ARC is exposing, but which is concealed by the subsonic filter when ARC is turned off -- perhaps leading to your bass drivers bottoming out. You might want to do a search in the content (software) forums here and see if there are any comments about this disc.
> 
> 
> But your best bet is probably to give Anthem tech support a call. They will likely want you to email them your ARC Measurements&Calculations file.
> 
> --Bob




I too have a similar problem using ARC 1.2.4, Bass is being diverted to the center channel and you can see the abnormal cone motions with the woofers of my center speaker. sound is distorted.


I also noticed that when when I switched between movie and music, there's a loud LF "THUG" sound. I have not noticed that with previous ARC versions.


----------



## bluemark81

I am considering getting the ARC kit for my AVM50. The cost is $709 plus installation.

1. For those who have it, is it worth the cost?

2. Have you found it to make a considerable difference?

3. Does anyone who has ARC have Velodynes DD series subs? How does ARC interact with Velodynes EQ software? Any issue between the two?


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14314562
> 
> 
> At the risk of posting something you all already know, I found something very interesting.
> 
> I purchased a ps-3 ir-pro from schmartstuff (I think) a few months back so that I could control my PS-3 with my universal remote. Last night I upgraded the PS-3 to the latest software. In the process of the upgrade I was asked to push the "PS" button. Since I didn't have a button marked "PS" on my universal, I hooked up my playstation hand control via the usb and completed the upgrade.
> 
> Today while trying to figure out how to program the "PS" command into my universal remote (its the 'power/reset' BTW) I took out the original ps-3 hand control to look at it to see if the the "PS" was labeled as something else so that I could find it on my universal remote's database, I inadvetently pushed the "PS" button on the hand control and the ps-3 powered on. Without the usb cord connected.
> 
> So I tried other commands from the ps-3 remote without it being hard wire connected to the ps-3 and it worked. I seems that the blue-tooth/ir converters have the added benefit of making the 'wired' ps-3 hand-control that comes with the ps-3 into a wireless hand control.
> 
> This isn't too great of a benefit if you don't use your to play games, but if you do you have a 'free' wireless hand control. Not a big deal, but a nice, unexpected bonus.
> 
> Just thought I'd pass it on,
> 
> Tom










Are you sure about this? This doesn't seem possible. I'm thinking you may have a wireless controller and don't realize it. From what I have read, the PS3 Wired Controller does NOT have a PS button. Check out this link; http://www.censuspc.com/PS3-Wired-Co...0-pr-5728.html


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14314562
> 
> 
> At the risk of posting something you all already know, I found something very interesting.
> 
> I purchased a ps-3 ir-pro from schmartstuff (I think) a few months back so that I could control my PS-3 with my universal remote. Last night I upgraded the PS-3 to the latest software. In the process of the upgrade I was asked to push the "PS" button. Since I didn't have a button marked "PS" on my universal, I hooked up my playstation hand control via the usb and completed the upgrade.
> 
> Today while trying to figure out how to program the "PS" command into my universal remote (its the 'power/reset' BTW) I took out the original ps-3 hand control to look at it to see if the the "PS" was labeled as something else so that I could find it on my universal remote's database, I inadvetently pushed the "PS" button on the hand control and the ps-3 powered on. Without the usb cord connected.
> 
> So I tried other commands from the ps-3 remote without it being hard wire connected to the ps-3 and it worked. I seems that the blue-tooth/ir converters have the added benefit of making the 'wired' ps-3 hand-control that comes with the ps-3 into a wireless hand control.
> 
> This isn't too great of a benefit if you don't use your to play games, but if you do you have a 'free' wireless hand control. Not a big deal, but a nice, unexpected bonus.
> 
> Just thought I'd pass it on,
> 
> Tom



Urh, you do realize the Sony PS3 "Sixaxis" and "Dual Shock" game controllers are both BlueTooth wireless controllers don't you?


If you connect them to the PS3 by USB cable, the will communicate that way, but if not connected, and if they have any battery charge remaining, they will communicate via BlueTooth (radio) wireless. Any command sent to the PS3 by any, previously paired, BlueTooth wireless controller will have the effect of powering it up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14314372
> 
> 
> I am considering getting the ARC kit for my AVM50. The cost is $709 plus installation.
> 
> 1. For those who have it, is it worth the cost?
> 
> 2. Have you found it to make a considerable difference?
> 
> 3. Does anyone who has ARC have Velodynes DD series subs? How does ARC interact with Velodynes EQ software? Any issue between the two?



It is DEFINITELY worth the cost. A bargain!


It makes a considerable difference.


I have a Velodyne DD-15 sub. I now use Preset 6 (disable the Velodyne's internal EQ system) and let ARC do the work. No issues.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14313978
> 
> 
> I too have a similar problem using ARC 1.2.4, Bass is being diverted to the center channel and you can see the abnormal cone motions with the woofers of my center speaker. sound is distorted.
> 
> 
> I also noticed that when when I switched between movie and music, there's a loud LF "THUG" sound. I have not noticed that with previous ARC versions.



Give Anthem tech support a call. This is not supposed to be happening. If it is peculiar to the V1.2.4 version of ARC we need to confirm this ASAP, since that version is likely to be part of the AVM ARC upgrade about to ship.


Are you seeing this on specific discs or with all discs?


In addition, double check that the ARC Upload has left the proper values in your Setup menu (proper speakers included in the configuration, cross overs, and speaker levels).

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/14314835
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you sure about this? This doesn't seem possible. I'm thinking you may have a wireless controller and don't realize it. From what I have read, the PS3 Wired Controller does NOT have a PS button. Check out this link; http://www.censuspc.com/PS3-Wired-Co...0-pr-5728.html



Boy do I feel dumb!

I just looked at the back of the controller and it says 'wireless'. I assumed since it came with a cable that it was wired. The usb cable must be for charging. Duh!

Nevermind.

Mea culpa.

Sorry.

Tom


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14315311
> 
> 
> It is DEFINITELY worth the cost. A bargain!
> 
> 
> It makes a considerable difference.
> 
> 
> I have a Velodyne DD-15 sub. I now use Preset 6 (disable the Velodyne's internal EQ system) and let ARC do the work. No issues.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, how long was your machine gone for the upgrade? This sounds like something I need.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I have a D2. The D1 and D2 need no hardware upgrade to use ARC. You just have to install the latest firmware and purchase the ARC application kit itself (Windows PC software and a specially calibrated microphone).


The AVM hardware upgrade for ARC for the AVM40 and AVM50 adds a second DSP to those units that ARC needs to do its job. This hardware change is dealer installable. This is supposed to start shipping any day now.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14313978
> 
> 
> I too have a similar problem using ARC 1.2.4, Bass is being diverted to the center channel and you can see the abnormal cone motions with the woofers of my center speaker. sound is distorted.
> 
> 
> I also noticed that when when I switched between movie and music, there's a loud LF "THUG" sound. I have not noticed that with previous ARC versions.



abc999,


You are right about the loud "POP". It happens when switching on from 2-ch to multi-ch.


What D2 version are your running with ARC v1.2.4? I am using v1.31c. Am wondering if there's a partnership mismatch.

-Ben


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14313185
> 
> 
> The only thing I can think of is that this specific disc has a ridiculous amount of subsonic bass that ARC is exposing, but which is concealed by the subsonic filter when ARC is turned off -- perhaps leading to your bass drivers bottoming out. You might want to do a search in the content (software) forums here and see if there are any comments about this disc.
> 
> 
> But your best bet is probably to give Anthem tech support a call. They will likely want you to email them your ARC Measurements&Calculations file.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


You may be correct about the excessive subsonic bass on this particular SACD disc. I have noticed since using ARC that the bass on SACD discs are generally a bit more generous than normal. But my sub hasn't heard to bottom so far, even with this particular disc. Just makes me woozy.







It goes down to 18Hz at 3dB and is driven by 750W of power (peak 2,100W), so there's plenty of room.


Just to be sure, I'll do a bit more research before calling for help.


What I can do meantime is use the SMS-1 after ARC to tame the subsonic output.

-Ben


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/14315519
> 
> 
> Bob, how long was your machine gone for the upgrade? This sounds like something I need.



My dealer is telling me it is about a 45 minute to an hour job to change the board and to the software upgrade. They do it right at the dealer, from what they tell me. They are taking orders now.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14315325
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call. This is not supposed to be happening. If it is peculiar to the V1.2.4 version of ARC we need to confirm this ASAP, since that version is likely to be part of the AVM ARC upgrade about to ship.
> 
> 
> Are you seeing this on specific discs or with all discs?
> 
> 
> In addition, double check that the ARC Upload has left the proper values in your Setup menu (proper speakers included in the configuration, cross overs, and speaker levels).
> 
> --Bob



I did another run with ARC1.2.4 with 1.33 firmware. It was running fine until I checked the speaker levels, when i highlighted the movie sub level , there was a LOUD uncontrolled LF (I I don't know which speaker(s)) output. I turned the unit off fearing damage.


I then reverted back to 1.2.2 and remeasured then did the same thing, a slight thug is heard but not annoying. I will send files to Nick ASAP.


1.2.4 files are not compatible with 1.2.2 therefore i had to do the measurements again


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14316000
> 
> 
> abc999,
> 
> 
> You are right about the loud "POP". It happens when switching on from 2-ch to multi-ch.
> 
> 
> What D2 version are your running with ARC v1.2.4? I am using v1.31c. Am wondering if there's a partnership mismatch.
> 
> -Ben



1.33


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14315439
> 
> 
> Boy do I feel dumb!



The USB Cable is for CHARGING the batteries in the wireless remote


----------



## jayray

Tues. afternoon for my AVM 50 upgrade for ARC. Will be done at dealer but may be done by St.Nick himself.







I get to watch
















John


When done I would like some bouncing mascots please


----------



## ASW

Does anyone know if Anthem has made any progress on the new HDMI driver?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14316253
> 
> 
> I did another run with ARC1.2.4 with 1.33 firmware. It was running fine until I checked the speaker levels, when i highlighted the movie sub level , there was a LOUD uncontrolled LF (I I don't know which speaker(s)) output. I turned the unit off fearing damage.
> 
> 
> I then reverted back to 1.2.2 and remeasured then did the same thing, a slight thug is heard but not annoying. I will send files to Nick ASAP.
> 
> 
> 1.2.4 files are not compatible with 1.2.2 therefore i had to do the measurements again



Hmmmm, sounds like there is a problem with ARC V1.2.4.


Is anybody else here using ARC V1.2.4 and D2 V1.33 *WITHOUT* having bass issues? I know we had a number of folks who were told to go to ARC V1.2.4 to increase the range of subwoofer level trim that could be Uploaded. Is that working for you folks without problems?


So we know they changed SOMETHING related to bass for ARC V1.2.4.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14317898
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Anthem has made any progress on the new HDMI driver?



The latest version on the test software page dates back to June 26. It still has significant problems which mean it is not yet ready for prime time (i.e., DON'T USE IT). But the promise is there, as one thing it does do much better is the re-handshake when my Comcast HD/DVR changes output resolutions.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

FIFTEEN THOUSAND POSTS IN THIS THREAD!







































*** Party! Party! Party! ***







































*** Dance! Dance! Dance! ***







































--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14317958
> 
> 
> The latest version on the test software page dates back to June 26. It still has significant problems which mean it is not yet ready for prime time (i.e., DON'T USE IT). But the promise is there, as one thing it does do much better is the re-handshake when my Comcast HD/DVR changes output resolutions.
> 
> --Bob



I was wondering whether a new version might be on the horizon.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Uh, oh!


I just noticed that Anthem switched the "official" ARC version -- on the public download page for the D2 -- to V1.2.4 this morning.


I would recommend that current ARC users hold off updating to that one for a bit until we get some feel for what's going on with the bass issues just reported here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14318007
> 
> 
> I was wondering whether a new version might be on the horizon.



Oh I'm sure they are working on it. But I haven't gotten any heads up that a new test try is about to be put out.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14317944
> 
> 
> Hmmmm, sounds like there is a problem with ARC V1.2.4.
> 
> 
> Is anybody else here using ARC V1.2.4 and D2 V1.33 *WITHOUT* having bass issues? I know we had a number of folks who were told to go to ARC V1.2.4 to increase the range of subwoofer level trim that could be Uploaded. Is that working for you folks without problems?
> 
> 
> So we know they changed SOMETHING related to bass for ARC V1.2.4.
> 
> --Bob



This pm I loaded D2 v1.33 to try out with ARC1.2.4. After reloading user's settings, I checked in the setup menu and found the xovers were lost. Instead, I found all of them showing 80Hz THX.


I also reloaded the last ARC measurements and sadly found the bass still giving me a headache like I mentioned earlier.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC V1.2.4 has also just now shown up on the public download page for the AVM-40 and AVM-50:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html 


The AVM50 V1.3x Operating Manual has not yet been updated on that page to the version that includes the new Section 3.15 (ARC instructions), but that will likely happen soon. Also, I've not been able to find any marketing materials on the ARC upgrade for the AVM-40 or AVM-50 -- no pricing or ordering details -- on their public web pages yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14318040
> 
> 
> This pm I loaded D2 v1.33 to try out with ARC1.2.4. After reloading user's settings, I checked in the setup menu and found the xovers were lost. Instead, I found all of them showing 80Hz THX.
> 
> 
> I also reloaded the last ARC measurements and sadly found the bass still giving me a headache like I mentioned earlier.
> 
> -Ben



With your ARC V1.2.4 results properly loaded in D2 V1.33, grab your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter and compare the levels it measures for the main speakers to what it measures for the subwoofer.


Use ARC mic position #1 with the SPL meter pointed straight up and with it set to "C" weighting and Slow response.


Go into Setup / Speaker Calibration, set Noise Sequence to Manual and scroll down to each speaker line to get the noise tone from that speaker. Use the Back button to turn off the noise.


The entries you find in Setup / Speaker Calibration should be the ones that ARC just Uploaded for you. Don't make any changes in there, just note what the SPL meter reads for each speaker. I'm not looking for minor variations here, but rather whether the subwoofer is WAY too hot compared to the other speakers.


--------------------------------------


Also double check that your actual speaker configuration (i.e., which speakers are used for Movie and Music) matches what you told ARC to use during Measurement for each of those.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

Ok, I just ordered my ARC. My guy at Sounds Deluxe says its just amazing!


I am looking forward to it.


----------



## TJG55

As a dealer I can supply pricing for these items but note this is ONLY for upgrade kit, labor will be additional. BTW, will have Bob McConnell, Central Mgr, Anthem, here to supervise our up of an AVM-50. Have installed several D-2s and upped a D-1. Will report later.


AVM50, 40, 30HD kit......$799


New AVM 40/ARC.....$4499

New AVM 50/ARC.....$5499


Most informative forum, thanks to all

tjg


----------



## budeone

Thats what I was told $800.00


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14318120
> 
> 
> With your ARC V1.2.4 results properly loaded in D2 V1.33, grab your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter and compare the levels it measures for the main speakers to what it measures for the subwoofer.
> 
> 
> Use ARC mic position #1 with the SPL meter pointed straight up and with it set to "C" weighting and Slow response.
> 
> 
> Go into Setup / Speaker Calibration, set Noise Sequence to Manual and scroll down to each speaker line to get the noise tone from that speaker. Use the Back button to turn off the noise.
> 
> 
> The entries you find in Setup / Speaker Calibration should be the ones that ARC just Uploaded for you. Don't make any changes in there, just note what the SPL meter reads for each speaker. I'm not looking for minor variations here, but rather whether the subwoofer is WAY too hot compared to the other speakers.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Also double check that your actual speaker configuration (i.e., which speakers are used for Movie and Music) matches what you told ARC to use during Measurement for each of those.
> 
> --Bob



Whoaaoooow! Here's my tabulation -

Front Left .. ARC -4 ..... SPL 72

Front Right . ARC -3.5 .. SPL 72

Center ....... ARC +4 .... SPL 73

Sur Left ..... ARC -0.5 .. SPL 71

Sur Right .... ARC +2 .... SPL 72

Sub ........... ARC 0 ...... SPL -- (Right off the scale!)










While measuring the sub with the SPL, I thought there was an earthquake!

Bob, you will appreciate it when I say I dare not wait to re-measure it with a higher scale. That was the first time I heard it bottoming and it is certainly not pleasant.


D2 v1.33 is certainly not recommended. I should have remained with v1.31c.


All speaker configurations are fine.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14318376
> 
> 
> D2 v1.33 is certainly not recommended. I should have remained with v1.31c.
> 
> 
> All speaker configurations are fine.
> 
> -Ben



Give Anthem tech support a call right away with that info.


I doubt your problem is D2 V1.33 as plenty of people are using that. It is more likely that the problem is ARC V1.2.4.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/14318248
> 
> 
> As a dealer I can supply pricing for these items but note this is ONLY for upgrade kit, labor will be additional. BTW, will have Bob McConnell, Central Mgr, Anthem, here to supervise our up of an AVM-50. Have installed several D-2s and upped a D-1. Will report later.
> 
> 
> AVM50, 40, 30HD kit......$799
> 
> 
> New AVM 40/ARC.....$4499
> 
> New AVM 50/ARC.....$5499
> 
> 
> Most informative forum, thanks to all
> 
> tjg



Thanks for that! I'm assuming these are all MSRP which means dealers have room to maneuver depending on the specific situation with each customer (other products and services being sold to that customer, etc.).


Remind me, what was the MSRP for the AVM-40 and AVM-50 prior to this? I.e., how much has the price increased for a customer to now get ARC bundled with a new AVM-40 or AVM-50? And is Anthem still offering the AVM-40 and AVM-50 for sale WITHOUT ARC? Hardly something I'd recommend for any new purchaser, but just curious.


And finally, have you been told that AVM-40 and AVM-50 units bundled with ARC in the factory are shipping now? Or do you expect it will be a while yet?

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14318649
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call right away with that info.
> 
> 
> I doubt your problem is D2 V1.33 as plenty of people are using that. It is more likely that the problem is ARC V1.2.4.
> 
> --Bob



Wherever the problem is, D2 v1.33 certainly cannot work with ARC 1.2.4 which seems to work fine with D2 v1.31c - at least there was no earthquake.


I am located half way round the globe, so I can only email them.

-Ben


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14318727
> 
> 
> Wherever the problem is, D2 v1.33 certainly cannot work with ARC 1.2.4 which seems to work fine with D2 v1.31c - at least there was no earthquake.
> 
> 
> I am located half way round the globe, so I can only email them.
> 
> -Ben



I have 1.33 with 1.2.4 and have not noticed any boominess. I have not gone back and checked my crossover settings or double checked with an SPL meter, but subjectively my 1.2.4/1.33 results sound much like my 1.31/1.2results.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More ARC and AVM/ARC news:


The ARC V1.2.4 which is now up on the public downloads page for the AVM-40 and AVM-50, as well as on the separate public downloads page for the D2, is identical to the one that was in the "Test" folder on the password protected download page. So there have been no changes for the version now released to the public.


------------------------------


The ARC folder on the public download page for the AVM-40 and AVM-50 includes a revised version of the V1.3x Operating Manual. This is NOT THE SAME as the one offered in the download links for the AVM-40 and AVM-50 manuals!


Anthem has now combined the manuals for these two AVM products together into one book. That means they've had to go through and mark some sections as for AVM-40 only and some as for AVM-50 only. So far I haven't spotted any problems with this.


The additional Section 3.15 (ARC instructions) will be found in this new combo manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14318815
> 
> 
> I have 1.33 with 1.2.4 and have not noticed any boominess. I have not gone back and checked my crossover settings or double checked with an SPL meter, but subjectively my 1.2.4/1.33 results sound much like my 1.31/1.2results.



OK, that's one good report!


I'm hoping this turns out to be nothing more than a corrupted ARC results file for the folks having this issue.


------------------------------------------


My recommendation is that folks run ARC in Advanced mode and exit ARC after taking Measurements and before doing Calculations. Then write protect the file containing the Measurements. Make a copy of that (turn write protection off in the copy), run ARC again in Advanced mode and Open the copy. Do your Calculations, Save that, exit ARC again and write protect this file that now contains both your Measurements and Calculations. Open that file in ARC again and now Upload it.


If you want to do new Calculations, make an additional copy from your MEASUREMENTS file and work in that new copy. Again, write protect the results.


The purpose of all of this is to make sure you don't accidentally screw up the data in either your Measurements-only or Measurements+Calculations file by opening them in ARC to look around at the charts or whatever and then poking at the values. It seems to me that ARC may make changes in the currently open file AS YOU POKE AT ITS VALUES, which may catch some users unawares.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14318727
> 
> 
> Wherever the problem is, D2 v1.33 certainly cannot work with ARC 1.2.4 which seems to work fine with D2 v1.31c - at least there was no earthquake.
> 
> 
> I am located half way round the globe, so I can only email them.
> 
> -Ben



So are you saying that you happened to do this SPL check with D2 V1.31c and ARC V1.2.4 as well, at some earlier point? I.e., that even when you were hearing problems in the bass with that combo you did *NOT* have this off-scale result in Setup / Speaker Calibration for your subwoofer?

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Bob,

AVM-40 3999

AVM-50 4999

Yes, can get either unit either way.

I believe ARC units are shipping now.

I strongly agree with your sentiments, ARC all the way!!

The closest anology I can conjure is, ARC on /off is like the difference between 8-track and CD


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14318815
> 
> 
> I have 1.33 with 1.2.4 and have not noticed any boominess. I have not gone back and checked my crossover settings or double checked with an SPL meter, but subjectively my 1.2.4/1.33 results sound much like my 1.31/1.2results.



Try "The Sound of Glory" Telarc SACD-60579, using 6-ch source input and set Audio In to AnalogDSP. If you do check the calibration with an SPL meter, do be careful when you reach the sub. abc999 had a fright too.









-Ben


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14318941
> 
> 
> So are you saying that you happened to do this SPL check with D2 V1.31c and ARC V1.2.4 as well, at some earlier point? I.e., that even when you were hearing problems in the bass with that combo you did *NOT* have this off-scale result in Setup / Speaker Calibration for your subwoofer?
> 
> --Bob



Correct.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14317944
> 
> 
> Hmmmm, sounds like there is a problem with ARC V1.2.4.
> 
> 
> Is anybody else here using ARC V1.2.4 and D2 V1.33 *WITHOUT* having bass issues? I know we had a number of folks who were told to go to ARC V1.2.4 to increase the range of subwoofer level trim that could be Uploaded. Is that working for you folks without problems?
> 
> 
> So we know they changed SOMETHING related to bass for ARC V1.2.4.
> 
> --Bob



Bass issues here as well - went back to 1.2.2

Bass was literally overwhelming from all directions.

/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/14318991
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> AVM-40 3999
> 
> AVM-50 4999
> 
> Yes, can get either unit either way.
> 
> I believe ARC units are shipping now.
> 
> I strongly agree with your sentiments, ARC all the way!!
> 
> The closest anology I can conjure is, ARC on /off is like the difference between 8-track and CD



Got it! $500 up charge when ordered in a bundle. $800 to get it as an upgrade separately (plus a few extra pennies to the dealer for installation of the hardware change







).


I'm eagerly awaiting the first end user reports on ARC for the AVM units -- whether it makes as big a difference for them as it does for the D1 and D2.


On the whole, I suspect the average AVM owner is less likely to have a treated room than the average D2 owner, or to have speakers which are specially matched in timbre, and so I suspect we are going to hear some pretty amazing reports once ARC gets out there to them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/14319206
> 
> 
> Bass issues here as well - went back to 1.2.2
> 
> Bass was literally overwhelming from all directions.
> 
> /\\/\\



Did you re-Measure with ARC V1.2.4 or did you just use it with your prior, V1.2.2, Measurement file?


Please do pass on your info to Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/14319206
> 
> 
> Bass issues here as well - went back to 1.2.2
> 
> Bass was literally overwhelming from all directions.
> 
> /\\/\\



That is true. I went back and reloaded my files from previous ARC versions and found the problem existed back then. I was using D2 v1.31c when I tried those old files.

-Ben


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14319104
> 
> 
> Try "The Sound of Glory" Telarc SACD-60579, using 6-ch source input and set Audio In to AnalogDSP. If you do check the calibration with an SPL meter, do be careful when you reach the sub. abc999 had a fright too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Ben



I will take a closer listen, but I have used several different SACDs (I do not have Sound of Glory) and just do not hear a sub problem (at least not one that was easily noticed).


----------



## jayray

so for the AVM40 and 50 guys, should we use 1.2.2 with 1.33 or try the 1.2.4?


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

AVM-40 and AVM-50 owners must use AVM V1.33 and ARC V1.2.4.


ARC V1.2.2 will not recognize the AVM-40 or AVM-50 as valid units for it to work with.


--------------------------


I suspect we will learn in short order that the D2 folks having problems with ARC V1.2.4 have something relatively isolated to deal with -- something peculiar to their setup or the way they are using ARC. The problem they are reporting is so significant that I can't believe it would have escaped the pre-release testing of ARC V1.2.4.


So odds are you are going to be fine using ARC V1.2.4 with your AVM unit.


But for *CURRENT* ARC users (i.e., with the D1 or D2), who happen to be on ARC V1.2.2 at the moment and have it working fine, there are no significant bug fixes reported in ARC V1.2.4 so there is no rush to switch to it. Wait a bit until this issue is better understood.


I'm also not sure whether switching to ARC V1.2.4 from ARC V1.2.2 means you have to re-Measure, or re-Calculate old Measurements, or what.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14319234
> 
> 
> Did you re-Measure with ARC V1.2.4 or did you just use it with your prior, V1.2.2, Measurement file?
> 
> 
> Please do pass on your info to Anthem tech support.
> 
> --Bob



I re-measured with 1.2.4.

After the earthquake, I reloaded my previous measurements from 1.2.2 using the 1.2.4 and it corrected things.

Will try another measurement this weekend...

/\\/\\


----------



## "MIKEY"

Please excuse me if this question has already been asked, but, after running the ARC measurements and setting the sources to EQ on...are the Xovers visible when looking at the speaker configurations?

For example, if the ARC settings:

50 L/R main

55 Center

110 L/R Surrounds with the sub at 120

Will these numbers show up in the D2's speaker configurations?

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/14320720
> 
> 
> Please excuse me if this question has already been asked, but, after running the ARC measurements and setting the sources to EQ on...are the Xovers visible when looking at the speaker configurations?
> 
> For example, if the ARC settings:
> 
> 50 L/R main
> 
> 55 Center
> 
> 110 L/R Surrounds with the sub at 120
> 
> Will these numbers show up in the D2's speaker configurations?
> 
> Thanks.



Yes. Otherwise the ARC Upload hasn't happened properly.


And once they are in there you must be careful not to fiddle with them or you will screw up what ARC has set up for you. The same is true about the speaker volume level settings in the Setup menu and the configuration of which speakers are included in the Movie and Music configuration.


This is why it is wise to Save User and/or Installer Settings after you Upload ARC results so that you capture those values and won't accidentally undo them by Reloading Saved User or Installer Settings at some later point.


---------------------------


You must still manually set up your speaker distances and the Polarity and Phase settings for your subwoofer. You can do this either before or after setting up ARC. There is no need to re-Measure when you do this. The ARC results will just sound better once you have made these manual settings.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/14320414
> 
> 
> I re-measured with 1.2.4.
> 
> After the earthquake, I reloaded my previous measurements from 1.2.2 using the 1.2.4 and it corrected things.
> 
> Will try another measurement this weekend...
> 
> /\\/\\



So I suppose there could be a bug, revealed by your setup, in the ARC V1.2.4 Measurement or Calculation process.


Or I suppose that random corruption of ARC Uploads may have returned in ARC V1.2.4 and you were just lucky the second time you used it, i.e., when you used V1.2.4 to Upload your ARC V1.2.2 results file.


ETA: Anthem Tech support will likely need to look at your original ARC V1.2.4 results file -- the one that produced the earthquake. So if you haven't already emailed that to them, hold on to it.

--Bob


----------



## abc999

In my case, after reinstalling 1.2.2 and tried to use the measured file via 1.2.4, 1.2.2 could not recognize the file. I had to do a remeasure using 1.2.2. The Bass was just horrible, it can damage the sub or speaker involved. I am at -18 dB on the volume scale and the sound was severely distorted.


I first noticed it when the FM interstation noise after the upload, it was full of bass energy. Then toggling between Music, auto lfe and movie triggered the bass boost. Turning EQ off lowered the bass to normal levels again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Have any of you guys with the ARC V1.2.4 issue managed to speak to Anthem tech support yet?


This sounds very similar to the bug in the original ARC V1.0 that was quashed in ARC V1.1.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

ohmigod ohmigod my ARC came today, only 9 days after ordering it! Whoo hoo!


Unfortunately, now I have to wait for my Keyspan adaptor to come, I figured it was better to get it than use my Ratshack one even though it worked in the past.


----------



## bcljones

For those few AVM 20-HD users out there, it appears that we are out of luck w/ regards to ARC. I e-mailed Nick and here is his reply:

Sorry, the AVM 20-HD has a different core on which ARC doesn't work. ARC wasn't planned for any AVM but the response in the last few months changed that...
I have a D2 also and have been amazed at the difference and was hoping that it would be available for the AVM 20-HD as well, but it looks like that is not the case...


Buddy


----------



## "MIKEY"

Bob

Thanks for the reminder to Save User and/or Installer Settings after you Upload ARC results-I recently moved speakers & forget to save the ARC settings after reloading.


Uploaded ARC twice to confirm the target settings & the speaker configurations are the same. Yet, I noticed the front L/R speakers were not highlighted in the recommended/basic install portions on my computer screen as I started the ARC process.

Any insights on why the front L/R speakers were not highlighted?

Thanks again for all you advice!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/14321916
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> Thanks for the reminder to Save User and/or Installer Settings after you Upload ARC results-I recently moved speakers & forget to save the ARC settings after reloading.
> 
> 
> Uploaded ARC twice to confirm the target settings & the speaker configurations are the same. Yet, I noticed the front L/R speakers were not highlighted in the recommended/basic install portions on my computer screen as I started the ARC process.
> 
> Any insights on why the front L/R speakers were not highlighted?
> 
> Thanks again for all you advice!



The Front L/R speakers are required -- you don't have the option to disable them for ARC -- so they are shown but grayed out to indicate you can't change that setting.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/14321658
> 
> 
> For those few AVM 20-HD users out there, it appears that we are out of luck w/ regards to ARC. I e-mailed Nick and here is his reply:
> 
> Sorry, the AVM 20-HD has a different core on which ARC doesn't work. ARC wasn't planned for any AVM but the response in the last few months changed that...
> I have a D2 also and have been amazed at the difference and was hoping that it would be available for the AVM 20-HD as well, but it looks like that is not the case...
> 
> 
> Buddy



Did you by any chance ask about the AVM-30 (not AVM-30HD)? Since the AVM-30 is to the AVM-50 as the D1 is to the D2 I would think an ARC upgrade for the AVM-30 might be possible.

--Bob


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Got it! $500 up charge when ordered in a bundle. $800 to get it as an upgrade separately (plus a few extra pennies to the dealer for installation of the hardware change ).
> 
> 
> I'm eagerly awaiting the first end user reports on ARC for the AVM units -- whether it makes as big a difference for them as it does for the D1 and D2.
> 
> 
> On the whole, I suspect the average AVM owner is less likely to have a treated room than the average D2 owner, or to have speakers which are specially matched in timbre, and so I suspect we are going to hear some pretty amazing reports once ARC gets out there to them.
> 
> --Bob




Boy do I hope you are right!! I am really looking forward to this. I hope it does what a good calibration does for a picture.


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14322103
> 
> 
> Did you by any chance ask about the AVM-30 (not AVM-30HD)? Since the AVM-30 is to the AVM-50 as the D1 is to the D2 I would think an ARC upgrade for the AVM-30 might be possible.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I didn't ask about the AVM 30, but Nick mentioned that the kits became available on 7/16 for the other AVM models mentioned in the ARC 1.2.4 notes as you had mentioned a few days ago.


Buddy


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14321251
> 
> 
> Have any of you guys with the ARC V1.2.4 issue managed to speak to Anthem tech support yet?
> 
> 
> This sounds very similar to the bug in the original ARC V1.0 that was quashed in ARC V1.1.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, Bob, Nick got me to answer a few questions about the other equipment in my system, trying to nail down source of the fault. Told him finally that turning off the EQ brought the bass back to normal - that should settle any doubt that the D2 is causing the problem. It's weekend now, so don't expect to hear from him till Monday at the earliest.


Oh, I brought the bass level down to -15dB to match the other channels for the time being.

-Ben


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14319923
> 
> 
> I will take a closer listen, but I have used several different SACDs (I do not have Sound of Glory) and just do not hear a sub problem (at least not one that was easily noticed).



This disc has very prominent low pipe organ notes. That probably caused the problem to magnify itself. Other SACD discs also exhibit distorted bass actually, but less noticeably loud, so may largely escape one's notice. At first I thought my disc had gone bad, but turning the EQ off brought everything back to normal.


I should say that if you enter Speaker Calibration in your Setup Menu with your SPL meter and find that the sub has normal output matching that of the other speakers in the system, then you are alright. If you have the problem, then you should experience something of an earthquake proportion upon reaching the sub.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If this is a a recurrence of the "Bass rumble" bug in the original ARC V1.0, then it ought to be pretty simple for Anthem to confirm. I presume Nick had you email your ARC results file to him.


That bug also affected only some users.


Odds are we'll have an answer on this early next week.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Just noticed that the test file on the tech page has both ARC files, the 1.2.2 and 1.2.4

Is this going to be a problem for AVM users if the only file they can use is the one with problems or is it a D2 specific problem?

John


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14325875
> 
> 
> If this is a a recurrence of the "Bass rumble" bug in the original ARC V1.0, then it ought to be pretty simple for Anthem to confirm. I presume Nick had you email your ARC results file to him.
> 
> 
> That bug also affected only some users.
> 
> 
> Odds are we'll have an answer on this early next week.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, he has his Tech boys looking into it. Keeping my fingers crossed.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14325894
> 
> 
> Just noticed that the test file on the tech page has both ARC files, the 1.2.2 and 1.2.4
> 
> Is this going to be a problem for AVM users if the only file they can use is the one with problems or is it a D2 specific problem?
> 
> John



Stay tuned, John. Even the original ARC V1.0 bug only affected some users.


The ARC V1.2.2 that just appeared on the password protected download page is identical to the version publicly released as the "official" ARC version (which means it does not include AVM support for example). Also, what's on there right now is just the application itself -- i.e., the folder is not set up with the rest of the stuff to install it and remove a prior installation.


Clearly Anthem is working the issue. I think we'll have the answers soon.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Bob,

I've been meaning to ask this for sometime. What's the check box for "Force" found under the Room Gain window in the ARC Target page for. No, I never fiddle with that, if that's what you're thinking.









-Ben


----------



## jayray

will do Bob, T-3 days and counting.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Target window displays the Room Gain that was found in your room during the Measurements. (Doing an "Auto Detect" causes ARC to look at the Measurements data again and reset any values you might have changed back to what ARC thinks is right.)


You can tell ARC to adjust its Calculations to "Force" a DIFFERENT Room Gain upon your room -- one that doesn't match your room's natural characteristics (as Measured by ARC). Put a new value in that field and leave the Force box checked. If the Force box is not checked, any change you make to the Room Gain field is ignored during the Calculation. I suspect a more intuitive user interface design choice could have been made here.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14326011
> 
> 
> The Target window displays the Room Gain that was found in your room during the Measurements. (Doing an "Auto Detect" causes ARC to look at the Measurements data again and reset any values you might have changed back to what ARC thinks is right.)
> 
> 
> You can tell ARC to adjust its Calculations to "Force" a DIFFERENT Room Gain upon your room -- one that doesn't match your room's natural characteristics (as Measured by ARC). Put a new value in that field and leave the Force box checked. If the Force box is not checked, any change you make to the Room Gain field is ignored during the Calculation. I suspect a more intuitive user interface design choice could have been made here.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the explanation. Like I said before, Anthem should engage you to write their manual. They just leave the user to guess and learn by trial and error. Not very user friendly indeed.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14326039
> 
> 
> Thanks for the explanation. Like I said before, Anthem should engage you to write their manual. They just leave the user to guess and learn by trial and error. Not very user friendly indeed.



I wish they could buy the code (based on opensource and free actually) of the RoomEQWizard software.

That's what I call a full featured acoustic measurement software, adapted to our world (pre-pros, home-theaters and online upload/download of measurements from the pre/pro).

Not that I whine about ARC, it does the job, and does it well.

But for the freaks amongst us, it could use one or two of the features from RoomEQWizard.

Have a visit at _http:// www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/


----------



## dweltman

Well, my ARC finally showed up today.










It doesn't surprise me that it's making a lot of correction to my surrounds, they're closer to the wall than optimal. But I am amazed at how poorly my center channel measures, it's only slightly closer to the wall than my right and left front.


Is there anything special I should be doing as I use 5 full-range speakers and no subwoofer? (Other than buy a sub, I mean). Obviously I've unchecked the subwoofer measurement box, but the target page still wants me to use a 40Hz crossover.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14326503
> 
> 
> Well, my ARC finally showed up today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It doesn't surprise me that it's making a lot of correction to my surrounds, they're closer to the wall than optimal. But I am amazed at how poorly my center channel measures, it's only slightly closer to the wall than my right and left front.
> 
> 
> Is there anything special I should be doing as I use 5 full-range speakers and no subwoofer? (Other than buy a sub, I mean). Obviously I've unchecked the subwoofer measurement box, but the target page still wants me to use a 40Hz crossover.



I'm not sure what the interaction is between the NO subwoofer setting and the advanced cross overs that ARC sets up for you. Normally when you specify that you have NO subwoofer the Front L/R speakers are forced to be "Large" (which means no cross over).


In any event, a low cross over like 40Hz may be perfectly reasonable even for full range main speakers, as the cross over is not a sharp cutoff.


Check the Target and Calculated curves ARC shows you in Advanced mode to see how much it is targeting and calculating as the actual roll off for your Front L/R speakers. The actual roll off will be a combo of the cross over, the room correction parameters and the room response as measured by ARC. If it is predicting only a modest roll off from 40Hz down to 20Hz for those 2 speakers you are probably fine.


Center speaker response is often affected by things near the speaker such as the screen itself or an equipment console. But do make sure you have followed the guidelines for ARC mic positioning during the Measurement pass.


The mic must be pointed straight up and positioned at seated ear height. The #1 position must be dead center. Then you must alternate to either side of center for subsequent measurements with no position closer than 24" to the positions on either side of it.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns

Looking forward to ordering the ARC-1 for my AVM 50. Thus far, I've been uprading the software using a serial cable connected to a desk top. I plan on using a laptop with no serial connection when I get the ARC-1.


What is the recommended serial adapter to buy? Is it the Keyspan USA 19HS?


----------



## "MIKEY"

Help!

Just lost OSD capability. Holding down the setup button on the remote does not work on my TV screen, but, it displays on the D2.


I tried trouble shooting by trying the following with no luck.

1. powering down the D2 from the rear

2. unplugging the HDMI cable

3. turned the D2 back on

4. saved user settings

5. loaded factory defaults

6. turned the D2 off again & plugged in the HDMI cable

7. turned it back on & loaded saved user settings


After doing all this, I still can not get the OSD to function. I hope that using a radio shack serial adapter to load v1.33 isn't causing this problem.


Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/14326913
> 
> 
> Looking forward to ordering the ARC-1 for my AVM 50. Thus far, I've been uprading the software using a serial cable connected to a desk top. I plan on using a laptop with no serial connection when I get the ARC-1.
> 
> 
> What is the recommended serial adapter to buy? Is it the Keyspan USA 19HS?



Yes. Make sure you go to the Keyspan web site and nab the latest driver specific to your laptop's operating system.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/14326985
> 
> 
> Help!
> 
> Just lost OSD capability. Holding down the setup button on the remote does not work on my TV screen, but, it displays on the D2.
> 
> 
> I tried trouble shooting by trying the following with no luck.
> 
> 1. powering down the D2 from the rear
> 
> 2. unplugging the HDMI cable
> 
> 3. turned the D2 back on
> 
> 4. saved user settings
> 
> 5. loaded factory defaults
> 
> 6. turned the D2 off again & plugged in the HDMI cable
> 
> 7. turned it back on & loaded saved user settings
> 
> 
> After doing all this, I still can not get the OSD to function. I hope that using a radio shack serial adapter to load v1.33 isn't causing this problem.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks.



I'm not sure why, but this appears to happen sometimes the first time people install the V1.3x firmware.


Don't panic. If your previous install completed without error messages then it is not the adapter you are using.


Do a re-install of V1.33 using the same setup you used to install it originally. Don't skip any steps. I.e., make sure you Reload Factory Defaults prior to the install and that you have removed power from all of your HDMI source devices and display so that you have no powered HDMI connections to the D2 while doing the install.


Also make sure you have no other applications running on your Windows computer while doing the install.


It is safe to install V1.33 on top of itself. If you have a good set of V1.33 settings previously saved in Saved User Settings prior to this install, you can use them to restore things after the install. This includes Video Source Adjust menu settings -- i.e., you only need to save and restore those via a PC file (with Live Video Settings Editor) when upgrading from V1.29j or older.


-----------------------------------


If a re-install of V1.33 doesn't fix your on-screen display issue, try downloading another copy of the V1.33 install kit from the Anthem public download page and doing the install again. It is possible the copy you have been using got corrupted somehow.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14327449
> 
> 
> Yes. Make sure you go to the Keyspan web site and nab the latest driver specific to your laptop's operating system.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, will be ordering it ASAP.


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


For obvious reasons I cannot displace my center channel. Nevertheless my ARC's measurements (see attached screeshot) show a very bad response from 500kHz up. It is to b noted that the other speakers are not showing a similar curve. They behave better.

Now my question is:

- can the cause be the quality of my center (Linn 5120)?

- if so, I suppose I can benefit from a center change. What would you recommend? (for this question I shall specify that my fronts are GamuT L5, my rears and surrounds are Dynaudio Audience 40 and my sub is Velodyne DD-18)


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Are you sure you just don't have Richard Syndrome -- a bad tweeter, or even a bad mid-range driver, in your Center speaker?

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14329498
> 
> 
> Are you sure you just don't have Richard Syndrome -- a bad tweeter, or even a bad mid-range driver, in your Center speaker?
> 
> --Bob



In fact, I think I do. (BTW, what's Richard syndrome? a joke?)

So what kind of centers would you recommend that suits my setup?

I am not expecting brandnames or models, just something I could start selecting with.

A friend of mine strongly believe his system sounds better without a center (phantom). He uses a pair of wilson watt/puppys 8.

He tried to push me off my convictions that a center is necessary.

I would like to know what you think about that.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sorry, I don't really have a speaker recommendation for you. The usual problem in a surround sound setup is not only matching quality but also matching timbre between your speakers. And I don't know what would go well with your other speakers.


Richard, one of the posters here, discovered from his ARC measurement charts that one of his speakers had a bad driver. He had been living with a broken speaker for who knows how long and thought it sounded pretty good! Of course the fixed speaker sounded even better.


Thus Richard Syndrome: Discovering, via ARC, that one of your speakers is actually broken. Yet another fine audio improvement feature of ARC!


----------------------------------


Of course if your Center speaker really is broken, and if you liked it enough to begin with, one possible solution is to get the bad driver replaced in it.


ETA: My personal opinion is that a Center speaker is essential for quality movie listening. If you go without a Center you really need to move your Front L/R speakers closer together for proper dialog, and that screws up their use for music content, even in movie tracks. I set up the "Music" configuration in my D2 without the Center speaker however.


ETA 2: Some higher end speakers have separate inputs for low and high frequency drivers, with a bus-bar cross connecting them for when you only use one pair of wires to them. If your Center speaker is like that, double check that your still have a good bus-bar or wire connection to your high frequency input on it.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

I just re-installed ARC 1.2.2 and uploaded newly taken measurements. Everything works fine. Can now safely conclude that there's nothing wrong with my player and sub, something which Nick suspected. So, it means a couple of possibilities - either ARC 1.2.4 has a bug or it doesn't work flawlessly with D2 ver 1.33.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I take it you are still on D2 V1.33 as well, right?


I think the odds are something got messed up when the change was made in ARC V1.2.4 to allow Uploading of larger ranges of subwoofer volume trim levels. The thing is, we don't have enough ARC V1.2.4 users reporting here to know how common a problem this will be for folks, or whether it will even be a problem at all for the AVM folks who have no choice but to use ARC V1.2.4.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14330641
> 
> 
> I take it you are still on D2 V1.33 as well, right?
> 
> 
> I think the odds are something got messed up when the change was made in ARC V1.2.4 to allow Uploading of larger ranges of subwoofer volume trim levels. The thing is, we don't have enough ARC V1.2.4 users reporting here to know how common a problem this will be for folks, or whether it will even be a problem at all for the AVM folks who have no choice but to use ARC V1.2.4.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, am still retaining D2 v1.33. That's the trouble with amending a piece of software code. I find that it often creates a bug somewhere else down the line. Personally, I'd rather write a new piece of program than amend an existing one.

-Ben


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14330618
> 
> 
> I just re-installed ARC 1.2.2 and uploaded newly taken measurements. Everything works fine. Can now safely conclude that there's nothing wrong with my player and sub, something which Nick suspected. So, it means a couple of possibilities - either ARC 1.2.4 has a bug or it doesn't work flawlessly with D2 ver 1.33.
> 
> -Ben




Same here. 1.2.2 with 1.33 is more stable


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14329545
> 
> 
> In fact, I think I do. (BTW, what's Richard syndrome? a joke?)
> 
> So what kind of centers would you recommend that suits my setup?
> 
> I am not expecting brandnames or models, just something I could start selecting with.
> 
> A friend of mine strongly believe his system sounds better without a center (phantom). He uses a pair of wilson watt/puppys 8.
> 
> He tried to push me off my convictions that a center is necessary.
> 
> I would like to know what you think about that.
> 
> 
> Thanks




I think its not the Richard syndrome you are having, your mid and highs are down 10dB only. with Richards syndrome there is no sound energy registering on the graph. Maybe a slight tilt of the speaker towards your ear might do the trick. Or the beam of your speakers are so narrow that when you are off the beam angle, the measured response is lower.


If you are the only listener and you are seated at one central location only, then you might get away without a center, for all other seat configurations, you definitely need one.


----------



## aus

I step away from this thread for a couple months since everything was working well, and BAM. New stuff like ARC for AVM's!!!


I looks like it's a dealer install. Can dealers do any other service? My AVM50's HDMI #1 input takes a few minutes before it'll show a picture. BUT, if I have Zone 2 or 3 on (and thus the unit is warmed up), it'll work fine right away. The other HDMI inputs seem to work fine from a cold start. I don't really want to be without it for a few weeks to ship it back when I know how to make it work, but I also don't like spending this much money and know something is wrong with it.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

My D1 with 1.33 and ARC v1.2.4 is fine. I have not measured but in the past when I had a bad upload that impacted the SUB it was obvious.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14330641
> 
> 
> I take it you are still on D2 V1.33 as well, right?
> 
> 
> I think the odds are something got messed up when the change was made in ARC V1.2.4 to allow Uploading of larger ranges of subwoofer volume trim levels. The thing is, we don't have enough ARC V1.2.4 users reporting here to know how common a problem this will be for folks, or whether it will even be a problem at all for the AVM folks who have no choice but to use ARC V1.2.4.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/14332187
> 
> 
> I step away from this thread for a couple months since everything was working well, and BAM. New stuff like ARC for AVM's!!!
> 
> 
> I looks like it's a dealer install. Can dealers do any other service? My AVM50's HDMI #1 input takes a few minutes before it'll show a picture. BUT, if I have Zone 2 or 3 on (and thus the unit is warmed up), it'll work fine right away. The other HDMI inputs seem to work fine from a cold start. I don't really want to be without it for a few weeks to ship it back when I know how to make it work, but I also don't like spending this much money and know something is wrong with it.



The dealers won't have any diagnostic tools. If it isn't obvious what needs to be replaced the dealers won't be able to do the job. You will have to send the unit back to the factory for service.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14331816
> 
> 
> I think its not the Richard syndrome you are having, your mid and highs are down 10dB only. with Richards syndrome there is no sound energy registering on the graph.



Actually its not hard to imagine a speaker design where a high mid-range/tweeter driver goes out and the woofer/low mid-range driver covers the higher frequencies enough to yield only 10dB down in measurement. You just have to assume a fairly shallow internal cross over between those two drivers.


The thing that makes it look to me like it might be a driver problem is that he's low at ALL of the mid range and high frequencies -- and specifically the fact that he's low at the mid range frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/14332187
> 
> 
> I step away from this thread for a couple months since everything was working well, and BAM. New stuff like ARC for AVM's!!!



If you are going to wander off, you should hire someone to track this thread for you and alert you to important stuff.










--Bob


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14332892
> 
> 
> If you are going to wander off, you should hire someone to track this thread for you and alert you to important stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



So Bob, you need a third job??


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14332885
> 
> 
> Actually its not hard to imagine a speaker design where a high mid-range/tweeter driver goes out and the woofer/low mid-range driver covers the higher frequencies enough to yield only 10dB down in measurement. You just have to assume a fairly shallow internal cross over between those two drivers.
> 
> 
> The thing that makes it look to me like it might be a driver problem is that he's low at ALL of the mid range and high frequencies -- and specifically the fact that he's low at the mid range frequencies.
> 
> --Bob



Probably, I should have asked if the center speaker is behind a perforated screen or inside a cabinet as opposed to a free standing design most configurations are. those 2 situations can severely decrease mid and high freq. output.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14333700
> 
> 
> Probably, I should have asked if the center speaker is behind a perforated screen or inside a cabinet as opposed to a free standing design most configurations are. those 2 situations can severely decrease mid and high freq. output.



Well, I just came back from a speaker's technician workshop.

The center and the crossover are ok.

It seems that my room is just "terrible".

I'll try 2 things.

- Putting the center a bit higher, just beneath the screen (which is not perforated)

- And have it tilted towards my ears at the sweet spot.


We'll see.


----------



## jayray

I read the ARC review in Secrets of Hometheatre HIFI and they commented on the mic stand height being to tall which prevented them from measuring at the proper height in the seating position. They eventually tilted the stand to get the mic in the proper location but it seems to me that the mic would have been on an angle and not straight up. Can anyone tell me the ht. of the mic in its shortest configuration?

thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The mic mount at the end of the included, straight-pole, mic stand is tilt-able, so you can point the mic straight up even if you tilt the pole of the stand. You can unscrew the pole from the base to rest it at an angle on a seat.


Or you can do what I did and get one of these from B&H. The mic mount from Anthem's included stand screws onto the end of the mic boom for this one. It works *REALLY* well. I highly recommend it:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post13934257 


The link to B&H is in the first line of the portion of the post quoted from 3NO who found this stand to begin with.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14335277
> 
> 
> Or you can do what I did and get one of these from B&H. The mic mount from Anthem's included stand screws onto the end of the mic boom for this one. It works *REALLY* well. I highly recommend it:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post13934257
> 
> 
> The link to B&H is in the first line of the portion of the post quoted from 3NO who found this stand to begin with.
> 
> --Bob



Looks much like the one used in the AudysseyPro kit which I drafted to this use.


----------



## jayray

Thanks Bob,


I checked the site for the stand but it was going to be close to $80-90 to ship to the Toronto area. However found it at a Canadian music store for $25 and $11.00 shipping. Should get it after ARC installed but probably will do several runs of ARC before I'm satisfied










John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC V1.2.5 has just appeared in the "Test" folder (Link 7) on the password protected download page. The change notes for it read as follows:



> Quote:
> Changes:
> 
> 
> v1.2.5:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for bug causing too much overall output from channels having significant low-frequency EQ.



As usual, stuff in the Test folder should be used with caution. If Anthem tech support instructs you to try it, then fine, but otherwise it would probably be good to wait a bit for some reports here.


In any event, this appears to be an effort to correct the "bass earthquake" problem we've been discussing over the weekend. Since there is nothing stated to the contrary, I presume V1.2.5 will also work with the AVM units.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14335507
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> I checked the site for the stand but it was going to be close to $80-90 to ship to the Toronto area. However found it at a Canadian music store for $25 and $11.00 shipping. Should get it after ARC installed but probably will do several runs of ARC before I'm satisfied
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



If you are a musician you probably already have a few of these. If you have any musician friends you could borrow one. Or spring for one at a music store like John did - it doesn't need to be road-rugged since it will sit at home.


The boom really helps to position precisely and can also help to get around pesky furniture in the way


----------



## jayray

I take it that anything past the 1.2.4 is ok for AVM users *if* they experience the low freq. bug?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well, John, you might want to pose that question to Nick tomorrow!










--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

Long and McQuade in Canada has a boom mic stand that looks a lot

like the one in the picture. I picked one up for sale at a grand opening sale for $40 or so.


----------



## abc999

Tried ARC 1.2.5 and made new measurements. so far so good.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14339717
> 
> 
> Well, John, you might want to pose that question to Nick tomorrow!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



True










John


----------



## xtrips

So is the 1.2.4 version ok for D2 or not?

I erased 1.2.3 and need to rerun ARC.

Is that ok or should I wait for 1.2.5?

And anyway where do you all guys get those betas? How can I get access too?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14342449
> 
> 
> So is the 1.2.4 version ok for D2 or not?
> 
> I erased 1.2.3 and need to rerun ARC.
> 
> Is that ok or should I wait for 1.2.5?
> 
> And anyway where do you all guys get those betas? How can I get access too?
> 
> 
> Thanks



The prior "official" version of ARC for D2 V1.33 was ARC V1.2.2.


The current "official" version is ARC V1.2.4. That's the version that is still on the public download page. It appears that it has a problem for folks whose room and speaker setup results in a "significant amount of bass EQ" for some speakers. The problem is that the overall bass level sent to those speakers ends up WAY too high. Based on the description of the problem it looks like it would only affect some users.


However ARC V1.2.4 has only one change that a D2 user might want -- it increases the range of subwoofer volume trim that ARC can Upload to the D2. If you do not need that fix, and if your ARC V1.2.2 setup is working fine at the moment, then you might as well just continue with ARC V1.2.2 for now. For AVM owners, on the other hand, ARC V1.2.4 is crucial -- it is the first ARC version to support the AVM units upgraded to add the second DSP hardware.


Anthem tech support runs a password protected download page where they put out beta (test) versions of new software. It is no big secret, but they keep it password protected to try to keep track of who might be using such versions. In the past, for example, they put up test versions that were designed for specific combinations of Anthem hardware version and certain source and display devices, knowing that they would not work with certain other combos. They would get the configuration details from the customer and only steer them to the test software if it was likely to work.


ARC V1.2.5 is on there now. It looks like it is a fix for the problem in ARC V1.2.4, but it is still early days yet.


IF you have deleted your ARC V1.2.2 setup and can't retrieve it from a backup, or if you need the subwoofer level Upload fix that V1.2.4 provides, then you will probably be fine with ARC V1.2.4 from the Anthem public download page. Or you could wait a few more days until we have more comments here either from folks using V1.2.4 or folks trying the test version V1.2.5. I've no idea how to predict whether V1.2.4 will give you a problem in your particular setup. Personally, my V1.2.2 is working fine and I'm not switching to V1.2.4 or V1.2.5 yet.


If you decide you need to go to V1.2.5, contact Anthem tech support and explain your situation and they will give you access to the password protected download page. But be aware that using beta software will sometimes result in unpleasant surprises, so don't be in a rush to use test software unless you really need to.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14341413
> 
> 
> Tried ARC 1.2.5 and made new measurements. so far so good.



That was with D2 V1.33 correct? Good news!


By the way, did Anthem tech support tell you that new Measurements were necessary? It may be just a matter of doing a re-Calculation and re-Upload. I don't know.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse

I just recalculated and uploaded my previous 1.2.4 ARC measurements (the ones which gave me the earthquake) and everything appears to be better in 1.2.5

I did not have time to do a full measurement again but will in the next day or two.

/\\/\\


----------



## KCWolfPck

I've just started getting some clicking noises (feedback?) through my speakers whenever the OSD of my AVM-50 comes on. For example, when I turn up the volume, every time I increase the volume there is a high pitched static noise that comes from my speakers. This happens no matter what source I use.


Has anyone else had this happen. Any ideas on what I can do to find/fix the problem?


Thanks.


----------



## ajeruns

Well just ordered the ARC-1 for my AVM-50 today. Dealer advised it would take 10-14 days to come in. Now, back to reading all those ARC-1 posts I've ignored for the past few months. It's like Christmas in July!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/14345996
> 
> 
> I just recalculated and uploaded my previous 1.2.4 ARC measurements (the ones which gave me the earthquake) and everything appears to be better in 1.2.5
> 
> I did not have time to do a full measurement again but will in the next day or two.
> 
> /\\/\\



So it appears that the benefit of ARC V1.2.5 can indeed be had simply by re-Calculating and re-Uploading V1.2.4 Measurements. That's useful to know.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14346073
> 
> 
> I've just started getting some clicking noises (feedback?) through my speakers whenever the OSD of my AVM-50 comes on. For example, when I turn up the volume, every time I increase the volume there is a high pitched static noise that comes from my speakers. This happens no matter what source I use.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this happen. Any ideas on what I can do to find/fix the problem?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



The first question is what version of AVM-50 software you are running? Press Select once on the remote control and it will come up in the first line of status info on the front panel.


The most recent version is V1.33, and there were fixes in various of the V1.2x and V1.3x versions that might help fix your problem. You can download V1.33 from Anthem's public download page for the AVM-50:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html 


--------------------------


If you are already on V1.33, then you should give Anthem tech support a call.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14346073
> 
> 
> I've just started getting some clicking noises (feedback?) through my speakers whenever the OSD of my AVM-50 comes on. For example, when I turn up the volume, every time I increase the volume there is a high pitched static noise that comes from my speakers. This happens no matter what source I use.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this happen. Any ideas on what I can do to find/fix the problem?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I have the sound you describe only when I turn on my Oppo. Used to have it when I would turn on my Toshiba XA2 and Panny 10A. Ugraded to latest software and it went away for awhile, but recently it started back up again, but only with my Oppo. It doesn't happen nearly as much now. Never had it occur with the OSD.


I believe I have read posts by Massimo N and JayJay stating they were having a similar problem and Anthem was looking into it.


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14346170
> 
> 
> The first question is what version of AVM-50 software you are running? Press Select once on the remote control and it will come up in the first line of status info on the front panel.
> 
> 
> The most recent version is V1.33, and there were fixes in various of the V1.2x and V1.3x versions that might help fix your problem. You can download V1.33 from Anthem's public download page for the AVM-50:
> 
> http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html
> 
> 
> --------------------------
> 
> 
> If you are already on V1.33, then you should give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> --Bob



I'm running v1.21. I do an update to the latest version and see if that fixes it. It's weird though that the problem would just appear....I've been running v1.21 for a long time now.


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/14346106
> 
> 
> Well just ordered the ARC-1 for my AVM-50 today. Dealer advised it would take 10-14 days to come in. Now, back to reading all those ARC-1 posts I've ignored for the past few months. It's like Christmas in July!!!



I thought the ARC-1 was only for the D2? We can utilize the ARC-1 with the AVM-50?


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14346347
> 
> 
> I thought the ARC-1 was only for the D2? We can utilize the ARC-1 with the AVM-50?



YES!! As long as you upgrade your AVM with another DSP, which is dealer installable!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14346335
> 
> 
> I'm running v1.21. I do an update to the latest version and see if that fixes it. It's weird though that the problem would just appear....I've been running v1.21 for a long time now.



That's the nature of the problem. Here's hoping V1.33 fixes it for you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14346347
> 
> 
> I thought the ARC-1 was only for the D2? We can utilize the ARC-1 with the AVM-50?



It's so new that I believe the first retail installation is actually happening this evening.


You need a hardware change in the AVM30-HD, AVM-40, or AVM-50 which is dealer installable (switching the single DSP to a dual DSP), and you also need the ARC-1 kit as used by D1 and D2 owners. The combo costs $800, plus possibly a bit more for the dealer installation labor.


Or you can now order a new AVM-40 or AVM-50 factory bundled with the dual DSP and ARC kit for $500 over the previous price.

--Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14346372
> 
> 
> That's the nature of the problem. Here's hoping V1.33 fixes it for you.
> 
> --Bob



Turning off the AVM-50 and turning it back on fixed the problem this time. Other family members reported hearing this noise before, so yeah...I'll definitely upgrade.


Re: ARC-1 for AVM 50: I'm going to have to look into this. Glad I checked in.


As usual....thanks for the info/help Bob!


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14346140
> 
> 
> So it appears that the benefit of ARC V1.2.5 can indeed be had simply by re-Calculating and re-Uploading V1.2.4 Measurements. That's useful to know.
> 
> --Bob



Further update...

Upon listening to the reloaded 1.2.4 measurements they still sound rather "thumpy", certainly not as bad as previous but still not as good as previous ARC 1.2.2.

For the time being I have reloaded my 1.2.2 measurements with 1.2.5 and it sounds fine again. I will attempt a full remeasurement with 1.2.5 in the next day.

/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/14346885
> 
> 
> Further update...
> 
> Upon listening to the reloaded 1.2.4 measurements they still sound rather "thumpy", certainly not as bad as previous but still not as good as previous ARC 1.2.2.
> 
> For the time being I have reloaded my 1.2.2 measurements with 1.2.5 and it sounds fine again. I will attempt a full remeasurement with 1.2.5 in the next day.
> 
> /\\/\\



Thanks for the update. This is (likely) evidence that to get the full benefit of ARC V1.2.5's fix of this peculiar V1.2.4 bug you need to do a re-Measurement. However if you have a good set of V1.2.2 Measurements, then doing a V1.2.5 re-Calculation and re-Upload on those may suffice.

--Bob


----------



## aus

So, will the second DSP be active in daily usage of an AVMxx?

Wasn't that DSP one of the main attributes of the D2? Just wondering if it'll sound better even if ARC was turned off with the second DSP?


And KCWolf... you sounded just like I was thinking last week when I checked this thread again after a couple months away.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As far as I know, the second DSP will be idle unless you have ARC active.


Keep in mind that the D1 and D2 still do their internal audio processing at 192KHz whereas the AVM series does it at 96KHz. This is likely just as true in the dual DSP AVM configuration since its DACs are still 96KHz DACs.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Took a while but it is done. ARC for the AVM50. Nick did the DSP upgrade and I had his ear for over an hour discussing anything that came into my head. To summarize the process, the DSP took five minutes to do. Most users could probably do it. Once done he reinstalled 1.33 so the AMM 50 would now see the new DSP and display AVM50/ARC at startup. Took it home with 1.2.5 software. Kit came with an extension serial cable. Made it very handy to get it to my position. Software loaded and started ARC. Used 5 positions and then it did it's magic







Upload took very little time and all settings were verified. EQ was set to ON for all sources and these settings were saved in the user and installer memories.

Now, for the $64,000 question, Did it Work. OH baby it did














Detail is amazing, voices are crystal clear and the sub seems a little softer than I remembered on HD DVDs but right on for Blu-ray. Not sure why that is. But on Ratatouille, the sewer scene LFE and surround were amazing. This was definitely worth the wait. Unfortunately it is late and I am exhausted however tomorrow I will do some more testing and report anything new I may discover. One thing about the sub. It is now so tight and not a wobble insight. Will try some music tomorrow to see if the resonances I had before have been eliminated.

1.2.5 worked beautifully and no LFE bug. Forgot to mention. In the display on the AVM50, when select is pressed it now shows output as 24/192. I suspect this is a glitch because the AVM 50 doesn't do this as Bob mentioned above.


For those with AVM50 and the hissing issue when changing inputs, Nick said they figure it is a software issue and they will try to address it but they are busy with other things, ARC being one of them. He also said that people should email him with problems. He really doesn't mind, in fact the wants you to tell him so they can fix the problem. If we don't tell him how will they know. He is a very personal guy and he enjoys reading the posts in this thread.

John


Graphs are posted. the first results include the LF and RF which are at the top of ARC Results1.jpg Got cut off when I copied them.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Jayray,

This, to the best of my knowledge, is our first retail installation report of ARC for the AVM-50.


Apparently it was an anticlimax for you, but perhaps these will cheer you up!








































----------------------------------


ETA: Do I understand you correctly that even if you have AVM-50 V1.33 already installed, you need to install it AGAIN after putting in the dual-DSP hardware so that this hardware is properly recognized?


ETA 2: I trust dealers reading this thread will take note of the ease of installation of the AVM/ARC Dual DSP hardware upgrade and rethink charging any serious amount of money for "installation labor".

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

If a good soul around here wants to help then just PM me and I'll provide an address to send the files.


Thanks


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14346140
> 
> 
> So it appears that the benefit of ARC V1.2.5 can indeed be had simply by re-Calculating and re-Uploading V1.2.4 Measurements. That's useful to know.
> 
> --Bob



Nick advised v1.2.2 measurements can also be uploaded after re-calculation with v1.2.5.

-Ben


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14347943
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> This, to the best of my knowledge, is our first retail installation report of ARC for the AVM-50.
> 
> 
> Apparently it was an anticlimax for you, but perhaps these will cheer you up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: Do I understand you correctly that even if you have AVM-50 V1.33 already installed, you need to install it AGAIN after putting in the dual-DSP hardware so that this hardware is properly recognized?
> 
> 
> 
> ETA 2: I trust dealers reading this thread will take note of the ease of installation of the AVM/ARC Dual DSP hardware upgrade and rethink charging any serious amount of money for "installation labor".
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Nick mentioned it was probably the first installation given others have to wait for delivery. He'll be happy to hear it went well.


Yes, 1.33 has to be reinstalled for it to recognize the new DSP. The new board has two chips on it. I thought it was an additional DSP, not a replacement.

If a dealer charges a lot for this, they are taking advantage. When Nick first came to the dealer he said it would take 5 minutes and it would have had I not asked all my questions.


Bob, could you take a look at my graphs and let me know what you think? Oh and thanks for the mascots. If you could have seen my face after demoing a few discs, anticlimax woudn't have described it









thanks,

John


----------



## ajeruns

Jayray,


Congratulations on getting ARC-1 for your AVM-50! It's so good to hear that ARC-1 provided such an improvement in your system. I'll have to let my wife read your post, as I really had to convince her this was a worthy investment. Hope to get mine in about two weeks.


Also, will e mail Nick with my hissing/popping issues.


----------



## The Bogg

Congrats Jayray,


I didn't have quite as smooth of a day yesterday. The Keyspan came...yay. Not sure why but yesterday I decided to upgrade my laptop to sp3 version of windows xp. Downloaded the latest Keyspan driver. When I installed the driver it gave some error about the hardware may not work properly. I rebooted and the keyspan utility says all is well. Try to upload the 1.33 on my D2 which has 1.31. It gets to "verify video flash uc" or something like that and a quick "blue screen of death" on the laptop and it reboots. Keeps doing that. Aaaarghhhhh!


Reinstall the keyspan drivers and the utility again says everything is alright. Same problem at the same spot. I loaded the drivers that came on my disc...a previous version. Instead of crashing at that point in the update it just seems to freeze there with nothing happening for 15 minutes so I shut it down. I couldn't reload my old firmware in the D2. Getting nervous now. Many hours wasted. Brought down my computer from upstairs (pita) with a real serial port - success the first time! My D2 isn't a brick.


Either a) win xp sp3 caused the problem.

b) I used to have the Rat shack usb to serial. I booted up in safe mode to see if there were drivers I should remove to prevent a conflict but nothing showed up.


I wonder if that was the problem (rat shack old drivers) because I remember another poster had problems with the Keyspan after using a rat shack one. I'll reformat the laptop and probably leave it on sp2! I want a reliable transfer when doing the ARC thing. Guess that will be on hold for now. What a waste of a day, sigh.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/14349794
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> 
> Congratulations on getting ARC-1 for your AVM-50! It's so good to hear that ARC-1 provided such an improvement in your system. I'll have to let my wife read your post, as I really had to convince her this was a worthy investment. Hope to get mine in about two weeks.
> 
> 
> Also, will e mail Nick with my hissing/popping issues.



Thanks Ajeruns,


Tell your wife I was a little skeptical of anything producing this much difference without spending thousands. However I am now a believer. You won't regret it









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bogg,

Make sure you have no powered HDMI connections to your D2 (sources or display) when doing the firmware install. Many HDMI devices leave their HDMI sockets powered even when the device appears to be off. I recommend you remove power from everything except for the D2 and the computer to be sure. Failure at the point of the video uC part of the install often is a result of an HDMI connection still being powered. On the other hand, that certainly should not have crashed your laptop.


-------------------------------------------


Even though there are no device conflicts reported by Windows, you may need to uninstall the drivers for the older adapter to get the drivers for the new adapter to be happy. The Keyspan driver install should happen without error messages or something is screwed up, even if Device Manager isn't reporting a problem.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14349866
> 
> 
> Congrats Jayray,
> 
> 
> I didn't have quite as smooth of a day yesterday. The Keyspan came...yay. Not sure why but yesterday I decided to upgrade my laptop to sp3 version of windows xp. Downloaded the latest Keyspan driver. When I installed the driver it gave some error about the hardware may not work properly. I rebooted and the keyspan utility says all is well. Try to upload the 1.33 on my D2 which has 1.31. It gets to "verify video flash uc" or something like that and a quick "blue screen of death" on the laptop and it reboots. Keeps doing that. Aaaarghhhhh!
> 
> 
> Reinstall the keyspan drivers and the utility again says everything is alright. Same problem at the same spot. I loaded the drivers that came on my disc...a previous version. Instead of crashing at that point in the update it just seems to freeze there with nothing happening for 15 minutes so I shut it down. I couldn't reload my old firmware in the D2. Getting nervous now. Many hours wasted. Brought down my computer from upstairs (pita) with a real serial port - success the first time! My D2 isn't a brick.
> 
> 
> Either a) win xp sp3 caused the problem.
> 
> b) I used to have the Rat shack usb to serial. I booted up in safe mode to see if there were drivers I should remove to prevent a conflict but nothing showed up.
> 
> 
> I wonder if that was the problem (rat shack old drivers) because I remember another poster had problems with the Keyspan after using a rat shack one. I'll reformat the laptop and probably leave it on sp2! I want a reliable transfer when doing the ARC thing. Guess that will be on hold for now. What a waste of a day, sigh.



Thanks Bogg,


Been there. I had used a Rat shack one for two firmware upgrades, one of which gave me the Blue screen of death. Just did it again and it worked. I now use the Keyspan. Deleted drivers for rat shack and now Keyspan works perfectly. I'm using Vista on my laptop. So far so good.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Jayray,

Your ARC curves look pretty good for the first try. They only notable item really is the drop off in high frequencies for your 4 surrounds.


I suspect that's because you are using dipole surrounds.


You've got a really serious room mode around 100Hz, but it looks like ARC took care of it just fine!

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I guess you're suggesting I do more measurements. How does this help ARC if conditions in the room haven't changed and the results look good?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14350155
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I guess you're suggesting I do more measurements. How does this help ARC if conditions in the room haven't changed and the results look good?
> 
> John



The only reason to remeasure is if you feel there's a better layout for your mic positions or if you reposition some of the speakers.


If you DON'T have dipole surrounds then you should consider repointing your surrounds because you are losing a lot of high frequency stuff. Dipoles would naturally lose that since they don't fire in the direction of the seating position.


But again, except for the high freqs on the surrounds I see nothing to suggest you need to do more work.


Some bass treatment on the walls might help reduce your room mode around 100 Hz, which could free up some ARC resources to smooth things a little more near there, but the result right now doesn't have any serious deviations left uncorrected.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I do have dipoles for back and surround. I guess I can take measurments without uploading just to see if there are any differences.


John


----------



## xtrips

So isn't there anybody here to help me?

I am stuck with 1.2.4 and my system sounds terrible.

Can somebody send the 1.2.2 version to me via PM or to rapidshare?


Thanks


----------



## jayray

What about 1.2.5? Maybe it will work and is downloadable from the tech site,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14350368
> 
> 
> I do have dipoles for back and surround. I guess I can take measurments without uploading just to see if there are any differences.
> 
> 
> John



If you have dipole surrounds I wouldn't sweat it. Dipoles give you a more diffuse surround ambience by bouncing the sound off the walls, but that also means you lose some high frequencies (which are inherently directional).


Re-Measuring isn't going to change that.


I don't know whether upgrading your dipole surrounds might help (I'm not that familiar with what's out there for dipoles these days), but if you like the surround sound you are getting with the current ARC setup then I'd suggest you live with it a while.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14350399
> 
> 
> So isn't there anybody here to help me?
> 
> I am stuck with 1.2.4 and my system sounds terrible.
> 
> Can somebody send the 1.2.2 version to me via PM or to rapidshare?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I might be able to help you out when I get home tonight.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14350548
> 
> 
> I might be able to help you out when I get home tonight.




It might not be be necessary though, let's see.

I just got access to the beta site and got hold of the 1.2.5 version.

Now if I have the "earthquake" problem, so, what shall I do?

Rerun all the measurements with 1.2.5?

Or, use the measurements made with 1.2.4, load them in 1.2.5, recalculate and upload?


Thank you.


----------



## jayray

Just listened to my Chesky 96/24 recording of Livingston Taylor's INK on DVD. Was listening to it out the analogs and it sounded terrific. Just listened to it using the optical input and using EQ=on and what a diff. The towel came off my front speakers. Even my wife thought so. She thanked me for getting ARC based on the music results. Yes I am lucky







No matter how good your equipment is it is hard to imagine it could be better but ARC seems to do it. Now with the sub used for music it is so smooth that I will now stay with sub on which I never did before. As you can tell, this is fun










John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14350945
> 
> 
> It might not be be necessary though, let's see.
> 
> I just got access to the beta site and got hold of the 1.2.5 version.
> 
> Now if I have the "earthquake" problem, so, what shall I do?
> 
> Rerun all the measurements with 1.2.5?
> 
> Or, use the measurements made with 1.2.4, load them in 1.2.5, recalculate and upload?
> 
> 
> Thank you.



I would recommend you re-Measure with V1.2.5.


We have one report that simply doing a re-Calculation and re-Upload of V1.2.2 Measurements using V1.2.5 will also work.


However we have another report that doing the same thing on a set of V1.2.4 Measurements did *NOT* eliminate all of the problem.


In any event, doing a full re-Measurement is probably safest.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

xtrips,

Just to make sure there's no confusion here, you should be using D2 V1.33 with ARC V1.2.5.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14350997
> 
> 
> I would recommend you re-Measure with V1.2.5.
> 
> 
> We have one report that simply doing a re-Calculation and re-Upload of V1.2.2 Measurements using V1.2.5 will also work.
> 
> 
> However we have another report that doing the same thing on a set of V1.2.4 Measurements did *NOT* eliminate all of the problem.
> 
> 
> In any event, doing a full re-Measurement is probably safest.
> 
> --Bob



Then, this is what I will do.

Thank you.

Maybe it is also time to try something new.

Did anybody measure 2 different sets? I mean:

- 1 for Movie using all 7.1 channels

- 1 for Music using only L+R and sub


Since I am going to try that now I could use recommendations.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14351077
> 
> 
> Then, this is what I will do.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Maybe it is also time to try something new.
> 
> Did anybody measure 2 different sets? I mean:
> 
> - 1 for Movie using all 7.1 channels
> 
> - 1 for Music using only L+R and sub
> 
> 
> Since I am going to try that now I could use recommendations.



Nick mentioned if you use a stereo source even using Movie, stereo will be output and ARC will work. Check my post above about my music experience.

John


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14351120
> 
> 
> Nick mentioned if you use a stereo source even using Movie, stereo will be output and ARC will work. Check my post above about my music experience.
> 
> John



Ok, so it means i don't have to run specific measurements for that.

But I thought that if I run ARC for Music with just 3 speakers and very close listening positions, I would get a more "optimized" EQ for music.

You don't think so?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14351077
> 
> 
> Then, this is what I will do.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Maybe it is also time to try something new.
> 
> Did anybody measure 2 different sets? I mean:
> 
> - 1 for Movie using all 7.1 channels
> 
> - 1 for Music using only L+R and sub
> 
> 
> Since I am going to try that now I could use recommendations.



I run a separate Movie and Music config in ARC. In my case I leave the surrounds in place in the Music config (since I can just select Stereo audio mode if I ever want to have them not used), but I removed the Center speaker from the Music config, so that I have no Center even if I use a Music surround audio mode such as PLIIx-Music.


So the Movie and Music configs are identical in ARC except that there is no Center speaker included in Music.


Note that when you do this, ARC will have you go through the entire Measurement stuff (each mic position) TWICE, first for Movie and then all over again for Music. Calculation and Upload still only happen once.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14351243
> 
> 
> Ok, so it means i don't have to run specific measurements for that.
> 
> But I thought that if I run ARC for Music with just 3 speakers and very close listening positions, I would get a more "optimized" EQ for music.
> 
> You don't think so?



If you are going to change your seating positions (and thus your mic Measurement positions) for Music compared to Movie, then you definitely want a separate Music config -- even if it uses all the *SAME* speakers as the Movie config!


Note that the D2 only has one set of speaker distances, but that's of fairly minor consequence for Music listening with a smaller number of speakers.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

Bob, I had your voice in my head when I was doing the upgrade and the power plugs were pulled from all hdmi sources.


There's no way of uninstalling the radio shack drivers because it's not in "add/remove programs" and it doesn't show up in "device manager". I suspect there was some issue with the installation of the Keyspan drivers, I'm just surprised it worked at all and then crashed.


Anyone else use Win XP sp3 and have problems? I suspect it was the old radio shack drivers but I suppose the sp3 could be the culprit. Why oh why did I try to change too many things at once???!!!


I'll spend tonight doing the reformatski to the laptop.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14349997
> 
> 
> Bogg,
> 
> Make sure you have no powered HDMI connections to your D2 (sources or display) when doing the firmware install. Many HDMI devices leave their HDMI sockets powered even when the device appears to be off. I recommend you remove power from everything except for the D2 and the computer to be sure. Failure at the point of the video uC part of the install often is a result of an HDMI connection still being powered. On the other hand, that certainly should not have crashed your laptop.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Even though there are no device conflicts reported by Windows, you may need to uninstall the drivers for the older adapter to get the drivers for the new adapter to be happy. The Keyspan driver install should happen without error messages or something is screwed up, even if Device Manager isn't reporting a problem.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14351426
> 
> 
> There's no way of uninstalling the radio shack drivers because it's not in "add/remove programs" and it doesn't show up in "device manager". I suspect there was some issue with the installation of the Keyspan drivers, I'm just surprised it worked at all and then crashed.



If the radio shack drivers are still in there (and that's likely) you will find them in Device Manager's list of all hardware under the USB item (look there first) and possibly under the Ports item (LPT and COM ports). When you find them, right click on them and select Properties. The option to delete the unwanted driver from the system will be found in there.


It would be wise to delete the Keyspan drivers as well and re-install them from scratch.


I'm using Windows XP (Home Edition) SP3 in the BootCamp environment on an Apple MacBook -- with the Keyspan USB/Serial adapter and Keyspan's latest driver for XP. Somewhat to my surprise, it all works both for firmware installs and ARC!

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

I looked in those locations under the regular operating system as well as under safe mode but didn't find any entries for the radio shack device.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14352168
> 
> 
> I looked in those locations under the regular operating system as well as under safe mode but didn't find any entries for the radio shack device.



Did you make sure the Keyspan is set to a low port (not higher than 6)?


----------



## The Bogg

The Keyspan was on port 6. I even tried it on port 2 - no difference.


----------



## drmabuse

FYI -

I just did a full measurement and upload of ARC using 1.2.5 and first impressions are this might be best yet.

The "earthquake" situation is completely gone.

I did the process using Advanced setting without any errors.

I use the same CD's as test material each time and although I have been at this for quite a while I still get goosebumps at how good my system sounds.

ARC is indispensible to Anthem owners - IMHO!


/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yet another home for some more of these!







































------------------------------------


Do you think there was some unspecified improvement in V1.2.5 over V1.2.2? I mean an improvement over and above eliminating the bass earthquake in V1.2.4? Or is the rest of the improvement you found this time due to the way you set things up or did the measurements?

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14352609
> 
> 
> Yet another home for some more of these!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Do you think there was some unspecified improvement in V1.2.5 over V1.2.2? I mean an improvement over and above eliminating the bass earthquake in V1.2.4? Or is the rest of the improvement you found this time due to the way you set things up or did the measurements?
> 
> --Bob



I haven't changed any of my positioning or anything and have taken all measurements in relatively the same place, give or take a couple of inches.

I am challenged with having my 2 subs in the back of the room so I always attempt to make them "disappear" which is not easy...the ARC achieves this.


I am stunned by the imaging of vocals!


When I think of how much "tweaking" I have done with my AVM2, then AVM20 and now the D2 and the ARC fixes everything better than I have ever been able to do with SPL's and my ears it is amazing.


As you know the challenge always is with source material and how different things are, I am not one who changes settings to compensate - everything stays as is and I accept what I get from the source (whether pleasant or not!)










What a fantastic piece of equipment the D2 is...


----------



## jayray

I think the greatest advantage of ARC is releaving me of my duties as chief tweaker. I put material in and just enjoy it. Noticed on further testing that LFE levels are just fine after thinking the contrary. Now I hear LFE where there wasn't or very weak levels existed. Eg. opening scene of Superman Return when Krypton explodes. Holly s_ _ t, what a difference. The other test was the second or third scene in Attack of the Clones when that big airplane space craft lands on the platform. That can make the best sub shudder but now tight as a drum. I might have to watch all my HD disks again









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I think you are also going to be amazed at the improvement in plain old DD5.1 tracks as well. Watching DD5.1 movies on cable or satellite for example, and of course with standard DVDs.


If you've been in the habit of adding THX post processing to your audio mode, I suggest you try turning it off now that you have ARC set up. I think ARC does a better job of timbre adjustment for example than the THX algorithm.


You may also find PLIIx sounds better for stereo broadcast movies than you have been used to so far.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14352168
> 
> 
> I looked in those locations under the regular operating system as well as under safe mode but didn't find any entries for the radio shack device.



Did you try plugin back the radio shack device, bring up the device manager and choose uninstall on it ?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14353551
> 
> 
> I think you are also going to be amazed at the improvement in plain old DD5.1 tracks as well. Watching DD5.1 movies on cable or satellite for example, and of course with standard DVDs.
> 
> 
> If you've been in the habit of adding THX post processing to your audio mode, I suggest you try turning it off now that you have ARC set up. I think ARC does a better job of timbre adjustment for example than the THX algorithm.
> 
> 
> You may also find PLIIx sounds better for stereo broadcast movies than you have been used to so far.
> 
> --Bob



I've already started testing these and you're right. Cable will be next.

John


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/14354337
> 
> 
> Did you try plugin back the radio shack device, bring up the device manager and choose uninstall on it ?



A good suggestion...I did something similar, I reinserted the driver disc and went through the uninstall process. Not sure if it applied to win xp as it said win 2000 I think.


In any case, after uninstalling and installing the keyspan drivers I still got the error when I plug in the adaptor. It says initially that there was a problem during installation but subsequently it works. I've decided to just reformat the laptop...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14355915
> 
> 
> A good suggestion...I did something similar, I reinserted the driver disc and went through the uninstall process. Not sure if it applied to win xp as it said win 2000 I think.
> 
> 
> In any case, after uninstalling and installing the keyspan drivers I still got the error when I plug in the adaptor. It says initially that there was a problem during installation but subsequently it works. I've decided to just reformat the laptop...



That sounds like a wise decision.


Once Windows gets confused it takes a crowbar to get it unconfused.

--Bob


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14355915
> 
> 
> A good suggestion...I did something similar, I reinserted the driver disc and went through the uninstall process. Not sure if it applied to win xp as it said win 2000 I think.
> 
> 
> In any case, after uninstalling and installing the keyspan drivers I still got the error when I plug in the adaptor. It says initially that there was a problem during installation but subsequently it works. I've decided to just reformat the laptop...



Try looking for C++ 2005 and installing it.


Jeremy


----------



## yacht422

good morning: walt here with a question re: mike height.

i have 2 row seating, the rear is 8" above the fronts. when positioning the mike, i originally had (center, left and right at front location ear height) then, for positions 4 & 5 i had the mike at ear level, second row elevation, each mike location two feet from center.

ok?

or, should all 5 readings be at "floor level", disregarding the rear altogether?

[ surrounds are dipoles, capable of full range performance]

thx

walt


----------



## jayray

Walt,

All measurments should be at ear level, ie. what people at that position will hear. I have the same side and rear speakers as you do and it sounds fantastic when ARCed









John


----------



## obie_fl

+1 for Walt. I have the same seating arrangement and did the same five positions, all at ear height.


----------



## yacht422

obie, my man! how _ever_ did you manage a basement in swampy florida?

we live in dunnellon just west of ocala. basements here are a non-event!

we built a dedicated 27 x 30 room, of which 16' X 22' X 10 is the h/t. the rest is bathroom and closet and utilities.

your room looks great !!- i am still working out the sound attentuation issues in ours.

i arc'd last week, results are good, but i was expecting more. (i am a demanding person, so my wife says)

after bass traps i'll re-measure.

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*ARC V1.2.5 is Now "Official"!*


Find it here for the D2:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


And find it here for the AVM-50:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html 


For those (like me) who are still on ARC V1.2.2, here are the combined release notes for V1.2.5 and the intervening V1.2.4 release:



> Quote:
> Changes:
> 
> 
> v1.2.5:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for bug causing too much overall output from channels having significant low-frequency EQ.
> 
> 
> 
> v1.2.4:
> 
> 
> 1. Added ARC to AVM 30-HD, AVM 40 and AVM 50. These models require new DSP hardware to run ARC. If so equipped, "AVM 40/ARC" or "AVM 50/ARC" is displayed at power-on. Software v1.33 or later required.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed problem occurring if subwoofer level would be out of range, preventing upload.



There is no guidance given on whether it is necessary to re-Measure when switching to ARC V1.2.5. Pending clarification from Anthem, my advice would be that you SHOULD re-Measure rather than just doing a re-Calculation and re-Upload on older Measurements you might have.


Please note that this install kit folder *ALSO* contains the most up to date version of the V1.3x Operating Manual for the D2, and the new "combo" V1.3x Operating Manual for the AVM-40 and AVM-50. In the case of the AVM units, the manual found in the ARC kit folder is NEWER than the manual shown for either of them on their download page.


---------------------------------------


Since I was planning to do a re-Measurement anyway now that I've broken-in my replacement subwoofer amp, I'll likely be switching to ARC V1.2.5 in the next few days.


ETA: I've still not found any marketing materials on the Anthem web site for ARC for the AVM processors.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14361061
> 
> *ARC V1.2.5 is Now "Official"!*
> 
> 
> Find it here for the D2:
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html
> 
> 
> And find it here for the AVM-50:
> 
> http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html
> 
> 
> For those (like me) who are still on ARC V1.2.2, here are the combined release notes for V1.2.5 and the intervening V1.2.4 release:
> 
> 
> 
> ETA: I've still not found any marketing materials on the Anthem web site for ARC for the AVM processors.
> 
> --Bob




I hope D2's firmware upgrade 1.34 won't be long.

I am really tired of rebooting my HTPC every time I need to project a movie.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Me too. The "test" version with the new HDMI driver (still not ready for prime time) hasn't changed since June 26.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike

Anybody out there having problems with getting audio through HDMI with the Scientific Atlanta 8300 HDC with Time-Warner Navigator operating system?


The video through the HDMI works fine, but I can't seem to get the audio to work. If I switch to the digital coaxial input in my D1-HD I get the sound just fine, but when I go to HDMI I get no sound. Yes - I have the 8300 box to output audio through HDMI and instead it outputs through the coaxial digital connection. I have not tried disconnecting the coaxial digital cable from the 8300 and the D1-HD and seeing if the sound will then come through the HDMI. I have known cable boxes to act weird that way before.


Thank you,


Mike


----------



## AV-NUT-99

CycloneMike,


I am having the same problem with a Comcast SA (non-DVR) HD box. I am not home, but I think it is a 4250 model. I replaced an older Motorola 6200 with the SA because I liked the guide in the SA and it now matches the two other SA boxes that my wife is more familiar with. The Motorola was DVI only, so I was using a coax digital input for sound and a HDMI to DVI cable for video. When I installed the SA box and replaced the HDMI - DVI cable with HDMI - HDMI, I could not get any audio, so had to go back to digital coax. I have not worried about it too much since I don't expect high quality sound from the cable box.


I am wondering if the Anthem D2 has "locked" in the fact that the previous device on this port had no audio, so it does not pass it through?


----------



## fhoude

I must miss something…

I have an AVM 50 – FW 1.33, A Sony Ruby Front Projector (HDMI OUT from the AVM) and a PS3 (Input HDMI #1)

I have now a brand new TV, a Sony 40W4000 (1080P) and I was expecting to connect my TV through Component (Component Output #1)

I did not know exactly the maximum resolution I could get through Component but If I read the technical specification of my TV, Component Input support 1080P&i, 720P, 576P&i, 480P&i.

I was expecting the AVM to output the process signal on both HDMI (the only one) and Component #1 and it seems to be true since I get the Menu on both my TV & the PROJECTOR.

See:
 


Unfortunately, If I came back to see the PS3 on the Component & HDMI… I only have an Output on HDMI

See:
 

 


I run the test in many resolutions and I found no solution.

As soon I select Hi Resolution such as 1080P 50Hz and 60Hz or 1080i 60Hz I did not have any menu output on TV (It’s OK on the projector)
 


As soon I select 1080i 50Hz I get a buggy screen on my TV (It’s OK on the projector)

As soon I select 720P or lower resolution… Both the TV and the Projector display the AVM menu.

Exit from the menu… I still not see the PS3 screen on my TV.


I try both Prefered HDMI or COMPONENT (Both let me see the PS3 on PROJECTOR but nothing on TV


In my entire test I set the output resolution of the PS3 to 720P even if I normally use 1080P to get the best for the Projector.

I have quite good cables... Component is from QED...


What’s the Hell









Where is my mistake...


Regards,

FRED


----------



## Bob Pariseau

FRED,

Most all interesting HDMI sources are "copy protected", that means that the D2 can not convert them to Component (analog) video output at high resolution. This is an industry restriction.


If your selected video source is copy protected HDMI, then the "processed" Component outputs are muted.


Despite this copy protection stuff, some HDMI source devices have both their HDMI and Component outputs live at the same time. Typically this would be the case with HDTV set top boxes and Blu-Ray players. [It will *NOT* be the case for standard DVD players or for Blu-Ray players when playing standard DVDs.] For those devices, you can hook up both HDMI and Component to the D2, set the Zone 2 Component output on the D2 to be the UN-processed Component video from the selected input (either from the Main path input device or one you separately select for Zone 2) and then when you select that source for Main the processed video will come out the HDMI -- you have your choice of whether you want the HDMI or Component input from that device sent to the scaler -- usually you will use the HDMI input.


Meanwhile the UN-processed Component video from that source is available on the Zone 2 output.


See Section 2.1 of the manual for the restriction that protected HDMI input can only be output on HDMI.


If you want "processed" Component video output then you must use Component video input, S-video input, or "unprotected" HDMI video input which would generally be limited to HDMI content you create yourself.

--Bob


----------



## AV-NUT-99

Question for Bob, or anyone with a similar situation.


I just received my ARC upgrade and am going to try it tonight when I get home. I am a little worried about my current room configuration and how it will effect the overall final response I get with ARC.


My room is a little on the small side, 11'x19'. I have 2 rows of seating for 3 with the back of the second row seats about 32" from the back wall on a 6 foot deep, 12" riser. (there is a door to an outside patio in the left center of the rear wall that opens in and to which I still need access) I am OK with this as I prefer not having the rear seats right up against the back wall. But, this forces my front row of seating to be fairly close to the front of the room (heads about 9' to the screen) and due to placing my front L/R speakers (Paradigm S8s) out into the room (to improve base response), they end up awfully close to the front left and right seating positions (probably 4 - 5 feet from the head position in these seats).


While not ideal, it pretty much puts my "primary" best seat in the middle of the second row. I was thinking of using the center of each seat as mic positions during measurement.


My worries are that the close proximity to the front L/R speakers (and for my center sig. C5 - although this speaker is probably a foot or two further back and on a 6" stage) for 3 of my measurements might compromise the results that I would hear in my primary seating location in the back row. I could move the front L/R closer to the front wall but I know this puts them into a base null area with a loss of lower frequency output.


My other thought is that since I want the second row to have the best sound possible, I could fiddle with the mic positions using the second row head positions for 3 measurements, then take 2 measurements with the mic located on the arms of the front row center seat at front head position and ear level. This would place the mic a bit farther away from the front L/R speakers roughly 1/3 of the room width away from each side wall giving me 5 mic positions.


This may be tough for you to answer and I may end up trying both, or some other mic configuration but was looking for suggestions or thoughts from those that have been through this.


PS - I also have two Velodyne SC-12 subs in the front corners powered by the Velodyne sub amp which has its own internal room correction which, from what I have read here, I may have to try in both correction on and off modes.


Thanks in advance,


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV-NUT-99* /forum/post/14361397
> 
> 
> CycloneMike,
> 
> 
> I am having the same problem with a Comcast SA (non-DVR) HD box. I am not home, but I think it is a 4250 model. I replaced an older Motorola 6200 with the SA because I liked the guide in the SA and it now matches the two other SA boxes that my wife is more familiar with. The Motorola was DVI only, so I was using a coax digital input for sound and a HDMI to DVI cable for video. When I installed the SA box and replaced the HDMI - DVI cable with HDMI - HDMI, I could not get any audio, so had to go back to digital coax. I have not worried about it too much since I don't expect high quality sound from the cable box.



Same here.


----------



## fhoude

Thanks BOB !

So this is this Damm protection stuff... Tsssssssssss


I'm not sure the PS3 is able to output on both HDMI & Component at once...

So your nice trick should not work.


I'll certainly look forward an external HDMI splitter but I need a transparent one since I don’t want to hurt my main HDMI signal. My projector signal should remain as clean as possible… I’ll get some information to see if such product exists.


One last thing… Do you know why I was not able to see the AVM menu on 1080P through Component ? Do component support such high resolution ? (My TV seems to accept such a signal)


Regards

FRED


----------



## Bob Pariseau

John,

Experimentation is your best answer right now.


ARC will complain during the Measurement process if the variation it is hearing from the speakers is too extreme (i.e., if you put the mic to close to a speaker). Keep in mind that ARC is using the various listening positions to detect room modes -- standing waves and such at different frequencies -- which are large scale characteristics of the room. As such, I don't think it is all that sensitive to the horizontal positioning of the mic.


Make sure your #1 position is dead center. Make sure you keep all positions separated from each other by at least 24 inches. Make sure you alternate either side of center for successive positions. And keep the mic pointing straight up and at seated ear height for each position. Do not place the mic up against a wall or seat back.


Personally, I found that bypassing the internal EQ in my Velodyne subwoofer worked best.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fhoude* /forum/post/14361765
> 
> 
> One last thing… Do you know why I was not able to see the AVM menu on 1080P through Component ? Do component support such high resolution ? (My TV seems to accept such a signal)
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> FRED



The Anthem supports up to 1080p/30 for "processed" Component in or out and up to 1080p/60 for "unprocessed" Component in or out.


I didn't follow what you were trying to do closely enough, but my guess would be you were looking at unprocessed Component on the Zone 2 output -- which means no On Screen Display available (since that's a type of processing).

--Bob


----------



## AV-NUT-99

Bob,


Yes, thank you. I will try to be careful to meet the requirements. One other thing, did I read that I should leave my accurate speaker distances to my primary seating locations in the configuration setup of the Amthem, but zero out my speaker level adjustments, set them all to 0db?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14358114
> 
> 
> good morning: walt here with a question re: mike height.
> 
> i have 2 row seating, the rear is 8" above the fronts. when positioning the mike, i originally had (center, left and right at front location ear height) then, for positions 4 & 5 i had the mike at ear level, second row elevation, each mike location two feet from center.
> 
> ok?
> 
> or, should all 5 readings be at "floor level", disregarding the rear altogether?
> 
> [ surrounds are dipoles, capable of full range performance]
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



Same configuration here. Did measurements at ear height on ALL measuring points


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV-NUT-99* /forum/post/14361957
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Yes, thank you. I will try to be careful to meet the requirements. One other thing, did I read that I should leave my accurate speaker distances to my primary seating locations in the configuration setup of the Amthem, but zero out my speaker level adjustments, set them all to 0db?




If I may, the distances should be measured manually. If you did already without the ARC, then leave them at that. I believe you don't have to adjust the levels to zero as ARC measurements will ignore the previous levels. It will however, adjust your levels according to the measurements at the first mic position.


----------



## ChantheMan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14361218
> 
> 
> Anybody out there having problems with getting audio through HDMI with the Scientific Atlanta 8300 HDC with Time-Warner Navigator operating system?
> 
> 
> The video through the HDMI works fine, but I can't seem to get the audio to work. If I switch to the digital coaxial input in my D1-HD I get the sound just fine, but when I go to HDMI I get no sound. Yes - I have the 8300 box to output audio through HDMI and instead it outputs through the coaxial digital connection. I have not tried disconnecting the coaxial digital cable from the 8300 and the D1-HD and seeing if the sound will then come through the HDMI. I have known cable boxes to act weird that way before.
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> Mike



Same here. Never got the HDMI audio to work with both the SA4250 and SA8300. HDMI video works when you unplug and plug back in the AC, but is gone when you switch inputs.


----------



## Massimo N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14347877
> 
> 
> Took a while but it is done. ARC for the AVM50. Nick did the DSP upgrade and I had his ear for over an hour discussing anything that came into my head. To summarize the process, the DSP took five minutes to do. Most users could probably do it. Once done he reinstalled 1.33 so the AMM 50 would now see the new DSP and display AVM50/ARC at startup. Took it home with 1.2.5 software. Kit came with an extension serial cable. Made it very handy to get it to my position. Software loaded and started ARC. Used 5 positions and then it did it's magic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upload took very little time and all settings were verified. EQ was set to ON for all sources and these settings were saved in the user and installer memories.
> 
> Now, for the $64,000 question, Did it Work. OH baby it did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Detail is amazing, voices are crystal clear and the sub seems a little softer than I remembered on HD DVDs but right on for Blu-ray. Not sure why that is. But on Ratatouille, the sewer scene LFE and surround were amazing. This was definitely worth the wait. Unfortunately it is late and I am exhausted however tomorrow I will do some more testing and report anything new I may discover. One thing about the sub. It is now so tight and not a wobble insight. Will try some music tomorrow to see if the resonances I had before have been eliminated.
> 
> 1.2.5 worked beautifully and no LFE bug. Forgot to mention. In the display on the AVM50, when select is pressed it now shows output as 24/192. I suspect this is a glitch because the AVM 50 doesn't do this as Bob mentioned above.
> 
> 
> For those with AVM50 and the hissing issue when changing inputs, Nick said they figure it is a software issue and they will try to address it but they are busy with other things, ARC being one of them. He also said that people should email him with problems. He really doesn't mind, in fact the wants you to tell him so they can fix the problem. If we don't tell him how will they know. He is a very personal guy and he enjoys reading the posts in this thread.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Graphs are posted. the first results include the LF and RF which are at the top of ARC Results1.jpg Got cut off when I copied them.



Here's hoping that I get the same results when I get my AVM30-HD back. It looks like my issue original issue is confirmed to be a software issue so it's coming back home ... and while it's at Anthem ... why not get the ARC upgrade










I should be getting my unit back next week, and I'll get my impressions up. I think I have a decent room with decent equipment, but I'm sure there is room for improvement.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14361117
> 
> 
> I hope D2's firmware upgrade 1.34 won't be long.
> 
> I am really tired of rebooting my HTPC every time I need to project a movie.



Nick said they are working on it so usually that means coming soon.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14361218
> 
> 
> Anybody out there having problems with getting audio through HDMI with the Scientific Atlanta 8300 HDC with Time-Warner Navigator operating system?
> 
> 
> The video through the HDMI works fine, but I can't seem to get the audio to work. If I switch to the digital coaxial input in my D1-HD I get the sound just fine, but when I go to HDMI I get no sound. Yes - I have the 8300 box to output audio through HDMI and instead it outputs through the coaxial digital connection. I have not tried disconnecting the coaxial digital cable from the 8300 and the D1-HD and seeing if the sound will then come through the HDMI. I have known cable boxes to act weird that way before.
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> Mike



I was told with mine when I switched, to make sure coax is unplugged before hdmi is used. Worked for me. Getting sound with hdmi now, didn't even have to tell the box that I had connected it just started working. May have a diff firmware given mine is distributed by Rogers in my area near Toronto.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV-NUT-99* /forum/post/14361957
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Yes, thank you. I will try to be careful to meet the requirements. One other thing, did I read that I should leave my accurate speaker distances to my primary seating locations in the configuration setup of the Amthem, but zero out my speaker level adjustments, set them all to 0db?



You must set the speaker distances manually. You can do this either before or after you set up ARC. The same is true for the subwoofer Polarity and Phase settings. Your ARC results will just sound better once you enter the correct values for these.


-------------------------------


ARC will ignore and replace the speaker volume levels you have previously set. There is no need to zero them out before-hand.


However, ARC will use the Setup / Speaker Calibration / Noise Level setting to set the volume of its test sweep tones. In addition, for speakers with their own built-in volume controls (most commonly subwoofers) it is wise to set those ahead of time to make sure they are close enough to "right" that the Anthem will have trim range to bring them into balance with the other speakers.


So before running your ARC Measurement, go to Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the Noise Level. Use your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (set to Slow response and "C" weighting) at the position you will use for ARC mic position #1, and pointed straight up. Select Manual in the first line of the Setup / Speaker Calibration and drop down to Noise Level. Sound will come out of the LF speaker. Adjust Noise Level until the meter shows roughly 75dB SPL.


[ETA: CAUTION -- due to an apparent bug, the volume produced on the Noise Level line is altered by whatever value is currently set in the Left Front speaker line. Thus you should set the LF line to 0dB *BEFORE* adjusting the Noise Level line.]


To confirm, drop down to the LF speaker line and set its volume trim value to 0dB. Since you already adjusted the volume for that speaker with the Noise Level line, 0dB trim value should also yield a roughly 75dB SPL reading.


Now go down to the subwoofer line and set it, too, to 0dB. Now, using ONLY the internal volume control on your subwoofer, adjust that until you get a roughly 75dB SPL reading.


You do not have to be precise in these settings. A ballpark correct value is fine.


If any of your other speakers have internal amps and internal volume controls you can treat them the same way as you set the subwoofer.


When ARC does its Measurements, the Noise Level setting you just made will result in sweep tones around 75dB -- a good level for doing the Measurements. And your subwoofer's internal volume control has now been set so that it, too, is roughly in the same ballpark for volume output, which means ARC will have no trouble setting its correct trim value as well.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Massimo N* /forum/post/14362670
> 
> 
> Here's hoping that I get the same results when I get my AVM30-HD back. It looks like my issue original issue is confirmed to be a software issue so it's coming back home ... and while it's at Anthem ... why not get the ARC upgrade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should be getting my unit back next week, and I'll get my impressions up. I think I have a decent room with decent equipment, but I'm sure there is room for improvement.



Massimo,

Let me know how the hissing issue is after getting your unit back. As for ARC,

all the posts I have read re ARC are dead on. Now that I have listened to it for two days, I am very impressed with the change in LFE response. Smoother, and tighter and for me, without a drop in level. Sound stage is much wider and clarity in the midrange, ie, voices are so much clearer. Thought my room was pretty good but what a change ARC made.

John


----------



## Buckeye

I think on the 8300 you have to go into settings and choose either HDMI audio or digital audio. You can't have both active at the same time.


----------



## jayray

When I first hooked hdmi up to my 8300 I forgot to change from coax to hdmi for sound but it did it automatically. Go figure.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14361794
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> Experimentation is your best answer right now.
> 
> 
> Make sure your #1 position is dead center. Make sure you keep all positions separated from each other by at least 24 inches. Make sure you alternate either side of center for successive positions. And keep the mic pointing straight up and at seated ear height for each position. Do not place the mic up against a wall or seat back.
> 
> 
> Personally, I found that bypassing the internal EQ in my Velodyne subwoofer worked best.



Bob,

When you say not to place mic against a seat back how far from the seat back do you mean. If my ear is around 4 in. from the seat back, it's a Lazy Boy chair with a higher back than a sofa, isn't this where the measurement should be taken from?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14365409
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> When you say not to place mic against a seat back how far from the seat back do you mean. If my ear is around 4 in. from the seat back, it's a Lazy Boy chair with a higher back than a sofa, isn't this where the measurement should be taken from?
> 
> John



I don't think its wise to take the measurement where a reflective surface is so close to the mic. Either raise the mic so the tip is above the top of the chair back or move your measurement position closer to the screen -- say by about a foot.

--Bob


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14365409
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> When you say not to place mic against a seat back how far from the seat back do you mean. If my ear is around 4 in. from the seat back, it's a Lazy Boy chair with a higher back than a sofa, isn't this where the measurement should be taken from?
> 
> John



What I do is to place the mic in position 1 at ear height and lower the back of the chair as far as it goes and it works great.


----------



## Spridle1

I have a few questions for all the ARC experts out there. I have a D1 and have been tweaking my sound primarily for 2 channel for a year now with a Velodyne SMS-1 and the REW software from Home Theater Shack (everyone should get this-- it free and very useful). I have high end speakers and amps in a large family room that is good, but not great, acoustically. Currently, my bass sounds really good and the highs are clear and instrumental music sounds very good. My complaint is vocals, particulaly female vocals, on county and pop music which at times sounds harsh and shrill and not very musical, although the same songs seem to sound better on FM radio in my car.


I have attached a graph of my latest smoothed frequency response measurements which is an average of 3 listening positions for 2 channel. I have a calibrated microphone.


Also, I have tried to flatten out my curve using RANE parametric EQs, but the harshness still remained so I removed them.


I have ARC on order.


My questions are this:


1) What will ARC do for me that the SMS-1 or RANE full-range EQs do not already do?

2) Is ARC more than just a parametric EQ? Exactly what does it do?

3) Has anyone experienced harshness in vocals where the ARC cured it?

Attachment 116048


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem isn't talking about what ARC really does under the hood, but it is known that it is *NOT* just another parametric filter EQ.


I believe we have had several posters here comment on ARC getting them much more natural vocals, but I'll let them speak to that.


I have a Velodyne DD series subwoofer, which includes the EQ functions of the SMS-1 built in. In my case I get substantially better results leaving the Velodyne's internal EQ turned off and letting ARC do all the work. Some of this is undoubtedly do to the fact that ARC handles a wider frequency range, but even the true bass is improved.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14365808
> 
> 
> I don't think its wise to take the measurement where a reflective surface is so close to the mic. Either raise the mic so the tip is above the top of the chair back or move your measurement position closer to the screen -- say by about a foot.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14366239
> 
> 
> What I do is to place the mic in position 1 at ear height and lower the back of the chair as far as it goes and it works great.



I'll probably wait for my new stand and give it a try using several positions.

thanks,

John


----------



## AV-NUT-99

Bob,


Thank you for reposting the detail above. That was the proceedure to follow prior to starting measurements that I remembered reading. Unfortunately, I did not get to do my system last night but will shoot for getting it done this weekend.


Seismo,


Good tip on laying the seats back. I will give it a try.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14366806
> 
> 
> Anthem isn't talking about what ARC really does under the hood, but it is known that it is *NOT* just another parametric filter EQ.
> 
> 
> I believe we have had several posters here comment on ARC getting them much more natural vocals, but I'll let them speak to that.
> 
> 
> I have a Velodyne DD series subwoofer, which includes the EQ functions of the SMS-1 built in. In my case I get substantially better results leaving the Velodyne's internal EQ turned off and letting ARC do all the work. Some of this is undoubtedly do to the fact that ARC handles a wider frequency range, but even the true bass is improved.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


First I gotta let you know that every once in a while I read a few notes from you in this forum and then I run to my gear and run the ARC again. And invariably I get better results. You should write their manuals. That would have saved me a lot of trials and time.


Now to the point. I too have a Velodyne sub. A DD-18. And through my reading in this forum, and an exchange of info with Curt (Velodyne's AVS forum), I have decided to first run the sub's EQ in manual mode, setting all the parameters including phase and contour in order to get a flatter response and a seamless integration with my front speakers. And then I ran the ARC.


So do you think this is wrong? I mean if you have decided otherwise then you probably have been there already. Right?


Enlight me.


Thank you


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No I don't exactly think it is wrong, it's just that in my case it seems to have worked better with the DD EQ bypassed.


I *THINK* what is going on is that the DD EQ is doing something to the frequencies higher up than it shows which is causing problems because ARC is depending on the subwoofer to work a little higher up than "normal".


In any event, with the DD EQ bypassed, the ARC-processed results -- as demonstrated with the Velodyne's own test sweeps -- are as good as I achieved manually, remembering that you need to find a compromise Velodyne EQ setting that works reasonably well for multiple seating positions even though it is not perfectly flat for any one of them.


Given that ARC was able to do the job all on its own, without apparent problems higher up in frequency for any speaker, I feel comfortable leaving it to do the job -- the Velodyne EQ remains bypassed.


I could imagine other room scenarios where the Velodyne EQ could be just the thing you need to carry some of the heavy lifting and free up ARC's resources to do work elsewhere.


-----------------------------------


My recommendation is that you try it with ARC alone FIRST -- Velodyne EQ bypassed. Also make sure the cross overs in the Velodyne are disabled so that the only cross over processing is happening in the D2 (Select the cross over entry in the Velodyne menu and hit Reset on its remote). This should be done whether or not you are using the Velodyne's EQ. By the way, I also run my Velodyne at the Servo=8 setting ("Musical").


After you see what ARC can do with that, then feel free to experiment with the Velodyne stuff.


However, I do *NOT* think it is a good idea to add the Velodyne stuff AFTER setting up ARC. Turn off ARC and set the Velodyne EQ the way you want it and then do a new set of ARC Measurements that include the impact of the Velodyne EQ.


[ETA: Come to think of it, a better approach might be to turn the Velodyne EQ off, then do an ARC Measurement and Upload to get ARC's idea of the proper cross overs and speaker levels installed in the D2 *WITHOUT* any Velodyne EQ, then turn Room EQ (i.e., ARC's processing) OFF for the source you are using to run the Velodyne's own test sweeps, then turn ON the Velodyne EQ and adjust it as you think best (but WITHOUT modifying the levels and cross overs set by ARC), then, finally, run a NEW set of ARC Measurements so ARC is now taking into account the Velodyne's internal EQ in making its own final set of settings.]


Also by the way, in my setup, Polarity Normal and Phase 0 in both the Velodyne and in the D2 turned out to be the right setting. This will not be the case for every room. You can still adjust Polarity and Phase AFTER doing the ARC setup if you want -- even if you are using the controls inside the Velodyne to accomplish that.

--Bob


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14367964
> 
> 
> I'll probably wait for my new stand and give it a try using several positions.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



Thats true, I forgot to mention that I got an extension arm fot the mic stand so that I can set the mic exactly over the chair at ear height.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spridle1* /forum/post/14366677
> 
> 
> I have a few questions for all the ARC experts out there. I have a D1 and have been tweaking my sound primarily for 2 channel for a year now with a Velodyne SMS-1 and the REW software from Home Theater Shack (everyone should get this-- it free and very useful). I have high end speakers and amps in a large family room that is good, but not great, acoustically. Currently, my bass sounds really good and the highs are clear and instrumental music sounds very good. My complaint is vocals, particulaly female vocals, on county and pop music which at times sounds harsh and shrill and not very musical, although the same songs seem to sound better on FM radio in my car.
> 
> 
> I have attached a graph of my latest smoothed frequency response measurements which is an average of 3 listening positions for 2 channel. I have a calibrated microphone.
> 
> 
> Also, I have tried to flatten out my curve using RANE parametric EQs, but the harshness still remained so I removed them.
> 
> 
> I have ARC on order.
> 
> 
> My questions are this:
> 
> 
> 1) What will ARC do for me that the SMS-1 or RANE full-range EQs do not already do?
> 
> 2) Is ARC more than just a parametric EQ? Exactly what does it do?
> 
> 3) Has anyone experienced harshness in vocals where the ARC cured it?
> 
> Attachment 116048



I have no doubt that ARC will increase your listening pleasure once its part of the system. From your curve you have a 5dB dip at 1.25khertz and another at 3.15k hertz. ARC will surely flatten your mids. To get good midrange it is essential that you are relatively flat from 100hz. to 2Khz. Probably the shrilleness that you are hearing is at 1.6khz.


I have a component similar to SMS1 and a microphone multiplexer with 4 lab grade microphones that I use to flatten the sub before the arrival of the ARC. In my case, I use ARC's final subwoofer's graph and ajdust for the dips and valleys that I see. The resulting graph is +/- 1.5 from 22 to 120 hertz. ARC does little more for my Sub but does wonders for the rest of the other 7 channels.


----------



## jayray

Just noticed something weird. Took another measurement of my room with ARC but did not upload. Watched a movie and then noticed that the movie config settings were at a default of all speakers at 80 Hz crossover and no equalization on option. Loaded user settings and everything was back to ARCk settings. Is this normal?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14370094
> 
> 
> Just noticed something weird. Took another measurement of my room with ARC but did not upload. Watched a movie and then noticed that the movie config settings were at a default of all speakers at 80 Hz crossover and no equalization on option. Loaded user settings and everything was back to ARCk settings. Is this normal?
> 
> John



Yes. Although it would be better if you got some warning.


ARC returns some settings to their default values as part of its configuration prep prior to starting the Measurement sweeps. And it doesn't restore them afterwards.


Of course if you do an Upload then those values will be set to what ARC now Uploads. But if you don't do an Upload you will need to Reload Saved User or Installer Settings -- or do an Upload of some prior ARC calculation -- to get them back where they are supposed to be.


This is yet another reason why it is vital to Save User and/or Installer Settings after doing an ARC Upload so that you capture those uploaded Setup menu values for later Reloading.


I suspect the lack of warning is due to the "Advanced" mode being a last minute addition to the ARC application. They had originally planned on sending it out with only the normal mode -- where an Upload always happens.


However, even in normal mode you can have this problem if the ARC Measurment process fails for any reason. The original Setup menu values are not restored. You have to do it yourself -- typically by a Reload Saved User Settings.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

did what you said initially and that was to save in two places. I did this and once I restored as I mentioned it was fine. Watched the whole movie with the default settings







Will have to watch it again









thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Careful there! Watching a whole movie with the wrong Settings, and not noticing, may come to be known as John Syndrome!










--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14370326
> 
> 
> Careful there! Watching a whole movie with the wrong Settings, and not noticing, may come to be known as John Syndrome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Nice one, Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Infamy for the wrong reason may be better than obscurity for the right one









John


Question. Can two diff ARC settings be kept, one in the user and the other in installer? Would be handy to compare.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14370256
> 
> 
> Yes. Although it would be better if you got some warning.
> 
> 
> ARC returns some settings to their default values as part of its configuration prep prior to starting the Measurement sweeps. And it doesn't restore them afterwards.
> 
> 
> Of course if you do an Upload then those values will be set to what ARC now Uploads. But if you don't do an Upload you will need to Reload Saved User or Installer Settings -- or do an Upload of some prior ARC calculation -- to get them back where they are supposed to be.
> 
> 
> This is yet another reason why it is vital to Save User and/or Installer Settings after doing an ARC Upload so that you capture those uploaded Setup menu values for later Reloading.
> 
> 
> I suspect the lack of warning is due to the "Advanced" mode being a last minute addition to the ARC application. They had originally planned on sending it out with only the normal mode -- where an Upload always happens.
> 
> 
> However, even in normal mode you can have this problem if the ARC Measurment process fails for any reason. The original Setup menu values are not restored. You have to do it yourself -- typically by a Reload Saved User Settings.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


If ARC sets EQ = OFF before doing its sweeps during measurements, does it automatically resets EQ = ON after upload? After every upload I see a notice for me to turn EQ on, but when I check my sources, it is already on or off, just as before. What's your experience?

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14372810
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> If ARC sets EQ = OFF before doing its sweeps during measurements, does it automatically resets EQ = ON after upload? After every upload I see a notice for me to turn EQ on, but when I check my sources, it is already on or off, just as before. What's your experience?
> 
> -Ben



The original ARC stuff left EQ OFF after the first Upload -- and thus the warning message to remember to go turn it on yourself.


I believe they may now have corrected that so that it turns EQ ON for all sources during the first Upload but I can't confirm that since, of course, I'm no longer doing my first Upload. In any event, you should check after the first Upload and turn it on for each source as necessary.


If you Reload Factory Defaults (as when doing a firmware install) then EQ OFF will be set for all sources. Your current EQ ON/OFF setting for each source is remembered as part of Saved User and/or Installer Settings. So you can Reload from those.


ARC sets the Anthem to the FM/AM input when doing its Measurements, so that's the only one where it might have to fiddle with whether EQ is ON or OFF during the Measurements themselves. I haven't actually checked to see if ARC is doing any such fiddling.


What I do know is that ARC, currently, preserves the EQ On/Off settings I have in place for each source when I do a new Upload. So the only time you need to check is after the first Upload.


But again, if you do a new Measurement without an Upload you will need to Reload Saved User Settings (or a new Upload of older ARC results) to restore the cross overs and speaker level settings that ARC had to reset to defaults prior to making that new Measurement.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Ok, Bob, I got it. It's just that the reminder doesn't seem to quite fit into the situation each time I reload a new set of measurements. As for AM/FM source, I do notice that ARC always set Bass Mgt from Music to Movies everytime I do a reload, which I think is strange. Thanks.

-Ben


----------



## TREVLAN

I just ordered the ARC for my AVM50 @ TruTone yesterday. I can't wait.

The best thing about being in Mississauga , as Jayray knows is I will be without my unit for about 1 hour and don't have to send it in.


my question for you already lucky ARC users, Is it hard to set up the ARC.... I'm talking in the home side of things. I THOUGHT IT WAS PLUG IN THE MIC, place the mic and boom AVM50 makes the settings and away you go.


But from what I'm reading, it's sounds a lot more.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14376652
> 
> 
> I just ordered the ARC for my AVM50 @ TruTone yesterday. I can't wait.
> 
> The best thing about being in Mississauga , as Jayray knows is I will be without my unit for about 1 hour and don't have to send it in.
> 
> 
> my question for you already lucky ARC users, Is it hard to set up the ARC.... I'm talking in the home side of things. I THOUGHT IT WAS PLUG IN THE MIC, place the mic and boom AVM50 makes the settings and away you go.
> 
> 
> But from what I'm reading, it's sounds a lot more.



ARC is pretty easy to run. There are two options when you fire up ARC, one option sets everything for you, or the advanced mode that lets you change some things. Even the advanced setup is not very hard if you do just a little "homework". Read the manual and instructions thoroughly, do a search here for anything you are not sure about, and you should be fine.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14376652
> 
> 
> I just ordered the ARC for my AVM50 @ TruTone yesterday. I can't wait.
> 
> The best thing about being in Mississauga , as Jayray knows is I will be without my unit for about 1 hour and don't have to send it in.



Sorry guys, I haven't been following too closely, I though you couldn't "get" ARC on/with an AVM 50, I thought it was only available for the D2 with it's greater horsepower. But I guess there's now another upgrade to put dual DSPs in the 50.


So a couple questions:


How do you get this, just talk to my dealer?

Will it work with an AVM-20HD (which my understanding is hardware-identical to an AVM-50?


----------



## Summit HDTV

Hi All,


I installed and ran ARC-1 yesterday on my D1 processor with (ultimately) good results. The D1 firmware rev is 1.33 and ARC ver 1.2.4. As reported by some owners the bass was too strong after my first attempt with ARC calibration. After installing ARC ver 1.2.5 and running ARC again, the bass was tame and proper.


The overall frequency response is more neutral. Movie dialog is more understandable. This is a decent upgrade. I can't wait to use the D1 more!


Cheers


----------



## Massimo N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/14377001
> 
> 
> Sorry guys, I haven't been following too closely, I though you couldn't "get" ARC on/with an AVM 50, I thought it was only available for the D2 with it's greater horsepower. But I guess there's now another upgrade to put dual DSPs in the 50.
> 
> 
> So a couple questions:
> 
> 
> How do you get this, just talk to my dealer?
> 
> Will it work with an AVM-20HD (which my understanding is hardware-identical to an AVM-50?



Upgrades can be done at the dealer. It is my understanding that the ARC upgrade is only available for the AVM30-HD, AVM40 and AVM50. No option for the AVM-20HD atm.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The AVM ARC upgrade is only available for the AVM-30HD (i.e., the one that's already been upgraded to add a video board), the AVM-40, and the AVM-50. It is not available for the original AVM-30 (unless you send the unit to the factory to get the video board added) or AVM-20, nor, we've been told, for the AVM-20HD.


The upgrade involves replacing the single DSP hardware in the AVM with a dual DSP. This change is dealer installable, i.e., you don't have to send the unit to the factory.


You get the dual DSP change-out, plus the ARC application software itself, a specially calibrated microphone, a longish mic to USB cable, and an OK but not great mic stand for $800 (plus perhaps a bit of labor charge at the dealer for the hardware install, which only takes about 5-10 minutes).


If you don't already have one of these AVM units, you can also buy a NEW AVM-40 or AVM-50 factory bundled with the dual DSP and ARC for $500 over the previous pricing (all pricing is Anthem's MSRP).


It is shipping now. Order it through your Anthem dealer. A number of us here have also purchased a $30 boom-style mic stand (from some other source) to use instead of Anthem's included stand.


----------------------------------------


Setting up ARC is ridiculously easy and well worth the effort. Some people experiment with re-doing the Measurements or playing with ARC's default "Targets" for Calculation, and of course that takes more time if you want to do that, but not all that much more time.


You need to take a bit of care in a few preliminary steps in the Anthem, and in your choice of microphone locations during the ARC Measurements, and you need to make sure ARC is turned on in the AVM after you Upload the ARC results to it, and that you Save the resulting Setup menu settings after the Upload.


You will also need to upgrade your AVM to the V1.33 firmware (or newer) prior to running ARC Measurements. At the moment, the latest ARC software is V1.2.5 and you should download and install that one if you get shipped an older version from Anthem.


You will need a computer running Windows XP or Vista with one USB port for the microphone cable and either a real serial port or a separate USB to serial adapter plugged into a second USB port for communicating with the AVM during the setup. Most folks are using a laptop for this. A wireless mouse makes it easier to get out of the way when doing the ARC Measurements. The Keyspan USA-19HS USB to Serial adapter works well (with the latest driver from the Keyspan site).


The Measurement and setup process can easily be done in an hour -- probably more like half an hour if you are organized. You will need a time when there are no significant external noises in your listening room that would interfere with the ARC Measurement process.


The ARC V1.2.5 install kit is available for download now from the AVM downloads page on the Anthem site. In that ARC install folder you will also find an updated Operating Manual for the AVM-40 and AVM-50 (combined now in one Manual). The new Section 3.15 in that Manual describes the ARC setup process.


Lots of notes on setting up ARC and what it does for you are in this thread in the pages dating back to April when the ARC upgrade first shipped for the D2.


One very important thing to be aware of is that the two ARC licensing and calibration files that come on its install CD will set ARC to work only with the specific serial number of your AVM (and the mic shipped with your copy of ARC). That means it is crucial that your dealer send in the correct serial number for your AVM when he places the order, and that you get delivered the ARC kit intended for your AVM if he receives more than one of them from Anthem at the same time. You get the serial number for your AVM by pressing Select repeatedly on the remote. The last set of info that gets displayed before it starts over again includes your unit's serial number.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Summit HDTV* /forum/post/14377470
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I installed and ran ARC-1 yesterday on my D1 processor with (ultimately) good results. The D1 firmware rev is 1.33 and ARC ver 1.2.4. As reported by some owners the bass was too strong after my first attempt with ARC calibration. After installing ARC ver 1.2.5 and running ARC again, the bass was tame and proper.
> 
> 
> The overall frequency response is more neutral. Movie dialog is more understandable. This is a decent upgrade. I can't wait to use the D1 more!
> 
> 
> Cheers



Great!


At this point, anyone who has ARC V1.2.4 should immediately replace it with ARC V1.2.5. Don't even bother running Measurements with ARC V1.2.4 to see if you happen to be affected by the "bass earthquake" bug.


Folks who are still using ARC V1.2.2 can afford to wait a bit if it is not a convenient time to do re-Measurement with ARC V1.2.5. But you should switch to the newer version at some point.


All AVM ARC users will need V1.2.5, as the AVM Anthem units are not supported in ARC V1.2.2.


And of course, everyone using ARC should be using V1.33 in the Anthem firmware at this point.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14377508
> 
> 
> The AVM ARC upgrade is only available for the AVM-30HD (i.e., the one that's already been upgraded to add a video board), the AVM-40, and the AVM-50. It is not available for the original AVM-30 (unless you send the unit to the factory to get the video board added) or AVM-20, nor, we've been told, for the AVM-20HD.



Hm, that's a shame, what's the difference between the 20HD and 30HD then? Sorry for all the basic questions, I've just been enjoying my 20 and not following all this. Of course that brings up another question, which software do you pick from the website for a 20HD, the AVM50 software?



> Quote:
> The upgrade involves replacing the single DSP hardware in the AVM with a dual DSP. This change is dealer installable, i.e., you don't have to send the unit to the factory.
> 
> 
> You get the dual DSP change-out, plus the ARC application software itself, a specially calibrated microphone, a longish mic to USB cable, and an OK but not great mic stand for $800 (plus perhaps a bit of labor charge at the dealer for the hardware install, which only takes about 5-10 minutes).
> 
> 
> If you don't already have one of these AVM units, you can also buy a NEW AVM-40 or AVM-50 factory bundled with the dual DSP and ARC for $500 over the previous pricing (all pricing is Anthem's MSRP).



Unfortunately (or fortunately perhaps) I've already got an AVM-20 2.1. Though given that the scaler is missing one feature I need, maybe trying to swap for a 40 is a reasonable option. Though I think it would cost me just as much as the 20HD upgrade but without the scaler.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't know why the original AVM-30 and the AVM-20HD are excluded from the ARC upgrade. I'd be willing to bet, however, that it is a technical reason rather than just marketing trying to get you to buy a newer unit.


And I'm afraid I haven't been tracking the AVM-20HD well enough to know what's up with firmware for it. I would assume, to start, that the AVM-50 firmware is the right one, but I'm not certain.

--Bob


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/14378349
> 
> 
> Hm, that's a shame, what's the difference between the 20HD and 30HD then? Sorry for all the basic questions, I've just been enjoying my 20 and not following all this. Of course that brings up another question, which software do you pick from the website for a 20HD, the AVM50 software?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately (or fortunately perhaps) I've already got an AVM-20 2.1. Though given that the scaler is missing one feature I need, maybe trying to swap for a 40 is a reasonable option. Though I think it would cost me just as much as the 20HD upgrade but without the scaler.



In an e-mail to me, Nick mentioned that "the AVM 20-HD has a different core on which the ARC doesn't work". I thought the AVM 20-HD was functionally equivalent to the AVM-50, but I'm guessing that it is only equivalent on the video side based on the comments from Nick. Also, you use the software for the AVM-50. There is not any specific software for the AVM 20-HD. On a side note, I have not been able to use any version of the settings editor to save my configuration before upgrading the firmware. None of the versions that I have tried recognize the AVM 20-HD. I sent a note to Nick a few weeks ago about it, but I have not heard back with a resolution.


Buddy


----------



## stanger89

Thanks again Bob, and Buddy, guess I'll just keep plugging away with my eyes and ears open for the best way to get the great new features out there without giving up my Anthem or sucking me dry


----------



## ninja12

I have downloaded and installed ARC 1.2.5 and did remeasurements. The sound has stepped up notch. The dialogue is cleaner and overall sound is more immersing and it just plain and simple sounds really good. Another thing I did was change from THX Ultra 2 to DPLIIx. I wonder if that caused a difference in sound. I will have to do some comparison listening to really determine. I didn't try 1.2.4 because of the negative feedback; but, 1.2.5 seems like a winner. Try it out. I don't think you will be sorry.










On another note, I have heard people say that they lay the back of their recliners back when running ARC. Does that really improve the measurements from ARC? Some people say they raise the mic up high enough so that it's above the back of the recliner to prevent reflections from back of the recliner. Is that better than laying the back of the recliner back?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just completed a re-Measurement with ARC V1.2.5. I also did some minor speaker repositioning as part of this. So far everything sounds great. I've not yet spotted any dramatic changes however, compared to the ARC V1.2.2 setup I had been using.


Once again, I set up a separate Movie and Music configuration where the Music configuration differs by having no Center speaker.


Cross overs this time were set by ARC to 80Hz for the LF/RF pair, 120Hz for the subwoofer, and 90Hz for the Center and Surrounds. All quite reasonable.


As last time, I did Calculations at the default 5KHz Max EQ Frequency Target and also at 12KHz and 20KHz. The 12 KHz Calculated lines are a bit bumpier than the 5KHz but nothing dramatic. This matches what I saw in V1.2.2. Curiously this time the 20KHz lines are not that much bumpier than the 12KHz lines.


In any event, I decided to Upload the 12KHz results and that's what I'm listening to now. As time passes, I'm getting less nervous about using these 12KHz results. They seem to be working well in my room.


And my oh my it does sound good!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*CAUTION: Possible Speaker Calibration "loud buzz" bug, perhaps due to ARC V1.2.5!*


One of the things I do after an ARC Upload is to go to Setup / Speaker Calibration and double check with my trusty Radio Shack SPL meter that the speaker levels appear to have been properly Uploaded by ARC.


After the ARC V1.2.5 Upload I just described, I did this as well. And the levels all do seem to be correct. But I got one big surprise:


When I moved from Music Subwoofer to Noise Level by scrolling down one more time with the Down arrow I got a brief but loud burst of noise. It sounded like a sawtooth waveform (a harsh buzz, not a hum) around 60Hz and possibly around 80dB. It lasted for about 1/10th second and appeared to be limited to (or simply was loudest from) the Right Front speaker.


While on the Music subwoofer line, if you simply turn off the test tones by pressing the Back button you do not get this noise. People should use this as a workaround.


It may be that ARC V1.2.5 is doing something a bit different in its Upload which is related to this issue, as I've not had it with prior ARC versions.


The ARC results themselves, both for Movie and Music, sound just fine, so if there IS a bug here it appears to be isolated to the Setup / Speaker Calibration menu.


I've reported the details to Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14379732
> 
> *CAUTION: Possible Speaker Calibration "loud buzz" bug, perhaps due to ARC V1.2.5!*
> 
> 
> One of the things I do after an ARC Upload is to go to Setup / Speaker Calibration and double check with my trusty Radio Shack SPL meter that the speaker levels appear to have been properly Uploaded by ARC.
> 
> 
> After the ARC V1.2.5 Upload I just described, I did this as well. And the levels all do seem to be correct. But I got one big surprise:
> 
> 
> When I moved from Music Subwoofer to Noise Level by scrolling down one more time with the Down arrow I got a brief but loud burst of noise. It sounded like a sawtooth waveform (a harsh buzz, not a hum) around 60Hz and possibly around 80dB. It lasted for about 1/10th second and appeared to be limited to (or simply was loudest from) the Right Front speaker.
> 
> 
> While on the Music subwoofer line, if you simply turn off the test tones by pressing the Back button you do not get this noise. People should use this as a workaround.
> 
> 
> It may be that ARC V1.2.5 is doing something a bit different in its Upload which is related to this issue, as I've not had it with prior ARC versions.
> 
> 
> The ARC results themselves, both for Movie and Music, sound just fine, so if there IS a bug here it appears to be isolated to the Setup / Speaker Calibration menu.
> 
> 
> I've reported the details to Anthem tech support.
> 
> --Bob



I just tried what you described. I didn't get any noise when I went from the Music Sub to Noise Level. However, when I go from Movie Sub to Music Sub, I do hear a thump every time I scroll between Music Sub and Movie Sub.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14379673
> 
> 
> I have downloaded and installed ARC 1.2.5 and did remeasurements. The sound has stepped up notch. The dialogue is cleaner and overall sound is more immersing and it just plain and simple sounds really good. Another thing I did was change from THX Ultra 2 to DPLIIx. I wonder if that caused a difference in sound. I will have to do some comparison listening to really determine. I didn't try 1.2.4 because of the negative feedback; but, 1.2.5 seems like a winner. Try it out. I don't think you will be sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another note, I have heard people say that they lay the back of their recliners back when running ARC. Does that really improve the measurements from ARC? Some people say they raise the mic up high enough so that it's above the back of the recliner to prevent reflections from back of the recliner. Is that better than laying the back of the recliner back?



I'm not sure which of those two mic positioning options is really better. A 3rd choice is just to move the mic closer to the screen by about, say, a foot, so that it is not so close to the seat back. I think lowering the seat back is probably fine. You just want to reduce the near-field reflections off the seat back messing up what the mic hears.


------------------------------------


With ARC in place I've pretty much stopped using THX post processing altogether. I believe this is due to the "timbre adjustment" that THX is trying to add to the sound. The ARC sound is clean enough that the THX processing just seems to get in the way.


There are some movies where I will turn on THX Re-Equalization, even though the rest of the THX post processing is turned off. This is to remove the treble bias in the Center speaker that was added for theatrical release. I find myself doing that pretty infrequently these days, however.


Of course for older mono movies I'll go all the way to Mono-Academy audio mode to remove the severe treble bias built into those older sound tracks.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

My ARC kit should arrive this week for my AVM50. In reading through the manual on the setup procedure, I have some questions. I appologize if some of my questions are obvious when actually running it so just tell me if that's the case.


1. In the manual it states, "Positions 2 and 3 should be symmetric to the left and the right of the centerline and the same applies to the remaining positions." Is the centerline considered you primary seating position? Can someone explain exactly what this means?


2. How far in front of your seating position can the mic be?


3. In the manual it states, "Set the mic in the first position. Don't stand near the mic while sweep tones are playing." Where can I be when sweep tones are playing? Should I leave the room?


4. Also, in the manual it states, "If you made measurements for a music configuration, assign bass manager accordingly." What does this mean?


5. Do you have to run measurements each time you update the ARC software?


Thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14380348
> 
> 
> My ARC kit should arrive this week for my AVM50. In reading through the manual on the setup procedure, I have some questions. I appologize if some of my questions are obvious when actually running it so just tell me if that's the case.
> 
> 
> 1. In the manual it states, "Positions 2 and 3 should be symmetric to the left and the right of the centerline and the same applies to the remaining positions." Is the centerline considered you primary seating position? Can someone explain exactly what this means?
> 
> 
> 2. How far in front of your seating position can the mic be?
> 
> 
> 3. In the manual it states, "Set the mic in the first position. Don't stand near the mic while sweep tones are playing." Where can I be when sweep tones are playing? Should I leave the room?
> 
> 
> 4. Also, in the manual it states, "If you made measurements for a music configuration, assign bass manager accordingly." What does this mean?
> 
> 
> 5. Do you have to run measurements each time you update the ARC software?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



1) Mic position #1 should be on the center axis from your screen at the distance of your primary listening position. Subsequent mic positions should alternate to either side of center. Like this:


#4 -- #2 -- #1 -- #3 -- #5


Each position should be at least 24 inches apart from all the other positions.


2) ARC is much more sensitive to the mic height than to its horizontal position so long as the guidance in (1) above is followed. I would think you would be fine if the mic was in front of your ear position at a given location by as much as the length of the chair seat itself for example. ARC is picking up room modes which are audio response characteristics in the room that have pretty significant size. The vertical positioning is critical because many speakers don't have particular good vertical spread in the mid-range and treble.


3) Step away from the mic by a few feet at least. Try not to stand between any speaker and the mic. A wireless mouse makes it easier to start the Measurement without being right next to the computer (which will usually be set up between the screen and the mic positions). You don't need to leave the room.


4) If you look in Setup / Speaker Configuration you'll see that you can set up a separate Music configuration from the normal Cinema (or Movie) configuration. If you do that, then for each source definition (Setup / Source Setup) you must select whether the Movie or Music configuration will be used for bass management -- really for all the various aspects of speaker management, including bass steering. This is for manual setup.


When you run ARC the ARC application asks you to specify which speakers will be used and gives you the option of setting a separate Music configuration. The ARC Upload then replaces your current Setup / Speaker Configuration with what you tell ARC to use (along with details ARC calculates such as appropriate cross overs). But if you set up a separate Movie and Music configuration you still have to decide on your own which one should be used for each Source definition. By default, all sources will use the Movie configuration.


5) Whether you need to re-Measure depends on what has changed in the new ARC version. In some cases all you will need to do is re-Calculate and re-Upload starting from your most recent set of Measurements. In general, however, if Anthem doesn't specify that you can just re-Calculate and re-Upload you should plan on having to do a fresh set of Measurements.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

After some more listening to ARC V1.2.5 I believe it sounds *EVEN BETTER* in the bass than my prior, ARC V1.2.2 setup.


I don't know if this is due to the particulars of how I did this new Measurement or if the bug fix in ARC V1.2.5 actually improves ARC processing even in cases where the bug is not so bad as to be heard as a "bass earthquake".


I think it would be good to hear from others upgrading from ARC V1.2.2 to ARC V1.2.5 to see if there is something significant going on here that might make it even more important for V1.2.2 users to upgrade and re-Measure.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14380348
> 
> 
> My ARC kit should arrive this week for my AVM50. In reading through the manual on the setup procedure, I have some questions. I appologize if some of my questions are obvious when actually running it so just tell me if that's the case.
> 
> 
> 1. In the manual it states, "Positions 2 and 3 should be symmetric to the left and the right of the centerline and the same applies to the remaining positions." Is the centerline considered you primary seating position? Can someone explain exactly what this means?
> 
> 
> 2. How far in front of your seating position can the mic be?
> 
> 
> 3. In the manual it states, "Set the mic in the first position. Don't stand near the mic while sweep tones are playing." Where can I be when sweep tones are playing? Should I leave the room?
> 
> 
> 4. Also, in the manual it states, "If you made measurements for a music configuration, assign bass manager accordingly." What does this mean?
> 
> 
> 5. Do you have to run measurements each time you update the ARC software?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



1,Centerline is position1 or your sweet spot. This is where the ARC will determine the GAIN for each speaker relative to this position. From this position, mic placement 2 and 3 should be no less than 24 inches from the centerline.Therefore if you measure position 2 on the left of the centerline, the next position will be on the right alternately. For position 4 and 5, just follow the same procedure with symetry in mind.


2, It's not cleat where it should be, but some suggest a foot from the back of the seat. I place a piece of towel where my head is so as to control near field reflections. I experiement from 6 inch to 1 ft.


3 No, just be far enough that the direct sound coming from the active speaker. Nothing should be in between the mic and the speaker being measured.


4.This should be automatic with the NEWER version of ARC. It verifies the upload process and updates the Bass management accordingly.


5. Yes and no. It really depends on the instructions that accompanies each update.


----------



## muad'dib

Now that many are using the ARC.. what do most of you think about the auto Crossover points?



or..


Do most of you agree to set the Crossover to 80hz(the way movies were mixed I beleive) for all speakers, then re-calculate with those?


Thanx much to all..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I find the cross over values selected by ARC work exceedingly well in my setup.


Keep in mind that the effective cross over is a combination of both the actual filter settings themselves and also the action of the room correction parameters.


It looks to me like ARC favors an overlap of cross overs which means the audio will generally be hot in the transition region. This means that most of the work of the room correction stuff can be done by reducing peaks instead of having to boost dips (which is harder).

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/14381103
> 
> 
> Now that many are using the ARC.. what do most of you think about the auto Crossover points?
> 
> 
> 
> or..
> 
> 
> Do most of you agree to set the Crossover to 80hz(the way movies were mixed I beleive) for all speakers, then re-calculate with those?
> 
> 
> Thanx much to all..



In my case, I have experimented with 80 hertz as my crossover point for movies and 90 high pass and 70 low pass for music. Its because I want my main speakers not to have freq. that are better reproduced by the subs. My crossover points are at 40 main 40 center, 65 rear and surrounds via ARC


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14381515
> 
> 
> I find the cross over values selected by ARC work exceedingly well in my setup.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the effective cross over is a combination of both the actual filter settings themselves and also the action of the room correction parameters.
> 
> 
> It looks to me like ARC favors an overlap of cross overs which means the audio will generally be hot in the transition region. This means that most of the work of the room correction stuff can be done by reducing peaks instead of having to boost dips (which is harder).
> 
> --Bob



I have never tried tweaking the crossover points but I do agree with Bob. ARC does for me an astonishing work.

Yesterday I saw Batman Begins, and in one scene there is this rumble of very low bass sound wave coming from far on the screen towards me. I just ducked. It was so overwhelming, so believable. G** they did a good job!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14379852
> 
> 
> I just tried what you described. I didn't get any noise when I went from the Music Sub to Noise Level. However, when I go from Movie Sub to Music Sub, I do hear a thump every time I scroll between Music Sub and Movie Sub.



When you tried this in Setup / Speaker Calibration, did you have the test tones actually turned on (test mode Manual in the first line instead of OFF)? I had the test tones on when I got this loud buzz. And have you already done an ARC V1.2.5 Upload? I've not had this buzz happen prior to doing a V1.2.5 Upload.


I too hear the much quieter, single, dull thump when moving in or out of either of the two subwoofer lines, but I only hear that if the test tones are OFF as otherwise the test tone itself is loud enough to conceal it. The thump has been happening for quite a while, so it's not related to ARC V1.2.5, in fact I don't think it's related to ARC at all.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14381813
> 
> 
> In my case, I have experimented with 80 hertz as my crossover point for movies and 90 high pass and 70 low pass for music. Its because I want my main speakers not to have freq. that are better reproduced by the subs. My crossover points are at 40 main 40 center, 65 rear and surrounds via ARC



How did the experiment turn out? Could you hear a difference? Which was better?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*AVM ARC USERS: Remember to re-install V1.33!
*

Since we are getting some new ARC Upgrade for AVM-40/AVM-50 readers at this point, I want to mention again one detail that might easily be overlooked by your dealer:


After the dual DSP hardware change is made in your AVM unit (dealer installable) you must then do a V1.33 firmware install -- EVEN IF YOU ALREADY HAVE V1.33 INSTALLED!


The new V1.33 install is necessary for the firmware to see and activate the second DSP.


-------------------------------------------------


And if your dealer has received ARC upgrades for more than one customer, make sure he hands you the upgrade kit that matches the serial number of your Anthem. The licensing & calibration files included in each upgrade kit are keyed to a specific serial number and will only work on that one Anthem unit.


And if your dealer has opened the ARC upgrade box out of curiosity or whatever, make sure he hasn't mixed up the calibrated microphone with the one from another kit. The microphone also has a serial number. The ARC install CD has a label on it that identifies the Anthem processor serial number and the microphone serial number that need to be paired together for everything to work correctly.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14380771
> 
> 
> After some more listening to ARC V1.2.5 I believe it sounds *EVEN BETTER* in the bass than my prior, ARC V1.2.2 setup.
> 
> 
> I don't know if this is due to the particulars of how I did this new Measurement or if the bug fix in ARC V1.2.5 actually improves ARC processing even in cases where the bug is not so bad as to be heard as a "bass earthquake".
> 
> 
> I think it would be good to hear from others upgrading from ARC V1.2.2 to ARC V1.2.5 to see if there is something significant going on here that might make it even more important for V1.2.2 users to upgrade and re-Measure.
> 
> --Bob



Hey Bob!


I posted earlier but thought I would just add to your comments that I do feel there is definite improvement in 1.2.5, especially in the bass response.

I initially reloaded my 1.2.2 measurements with 1.2.5 and thought is was good but after a re-measurement with 1.2.5 I feel it is better.

Of course it could be just "delusional with happiness" on my part but so be it!









That coupled with the new MOFI "Dead Can Dance" SACD remasters that have been playing non-stop all weekend!


/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That's good to hear. One of the reasons I did this re-Measurement was to capture any variation now that my new subwoofer amp has had a chance to break in. So that too may be part of it.


The V1.2.5 charts don't show any differences in the bass that would explain what I'm hearing, but of course the frequency response curves won't show everything.


I'm still not sure it is V1.2.5 itself that has made for the improvement, but I'm quite certain now that what I'm hearing with this latest V1.2.5 setup is better in the bass and low mid-range than what I had with my prior V1.2.2 setup. I haven't detected any change in higher frequencies yet.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14381825
> 
> 
> I have never tried tweaking the crossover points but I do agree with Bob. ARC does for me an astonishing work.
> 
> Yesterday I saw Batman Begins, and in one scene there is this rumble of very low bass sound wave coming from far on the screen towards me. I just ducked. It was so overwhelming, so believable. G** they did a good job!



I watched Ratatouille after I'd gotten ARC set up, and near the beginning, there is lightning and thunder. Both my wife and I JUMPED when the thunder happened! Unbelievable fidelity.


I see a possible side-thread: "Most dramatic moments when listening to ARC'd system."


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bangs are fun, but in my case it was when there was a knock at the door to my listening room (behind and to the left) and I got up to open it before realizing it was actually sound from the movie I was listening to.


After realizing that, it also dawned on me that the knock sound effect was precisely positioned in the surround sound field, just where it should have been for that scene of the movie, and had perfect "room ambience" for the size of the room in that scene.


Cool!


On the whole I've been equally impressed with LFE integration (bangs and such) and improvements in the surround "sound field". But the additional clarity and transparency of music ARC has brought to the setup is the thing that really knocks my socks off. I REALLY like what it has done for percussion instruments.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib

Thanx all for the input about the crossovers...










Just one question.. If the arc makes the crossover for the sub high (over 80hz), does anyone find that the sub is more directional??



Without the ARC, and just doing the crossover the old fashion way, the sub was more directonal when crossover was over 80hz..



Thanx again..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/14384665
> 
> 
> Thanx all for the input about the crossovers...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just one question.. If the arc makes the crossover for the sub high (over 80hz), does anyone find that the sub is more directional??
> 
> 
> 
> Without the ARC, and just doing the crossover the old fashion way, the sub was more directonal when crossover was over 80hz..
> 
> 
> 
> Thanx again..



That's an excellent question. In my case ARC sets the sub crossover at 120Hz. I worried about directionality because I had previously rejected a crossover above 110Hz when doing my manual setup using the Velodyne sub's built-in bass EQ system -- because it sounded too directional.


But whatever ARC is doing under the hood is working brilliantly in my setup. There is no directionality from the subwoofer -- even when it is pushing enough air that I can see the cloth moving. When you have combined sounds, higher frequencies that should be directional from a main speaker and lower frequencies happening at the same time (which are steered to the subwoofer), the only directionality is what should be there -- i.e., to that main speaker.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/14384465
> 
> 
> I watched Ratatouille after I'd gotten ARC set up, and near the beginning, there is lightning and thunder. Both my wife and I JUMPED when the thunder happened! Unbelievable fidelity.
> 
> 
> I see a possible side-thread: "Most dramatic moments when listening to ARC'd system."



What about the sewer scene as he goes under the water. I checked for leaks in the theatre after that one


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/14384665
> 
> 
> Thanx all for the input about the crossovers...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just one question.. If the arc makes the crossover for the sub high (over 80hz), does anyone find that the sub is more directional??
> 
> 
> 
> Without the ARC, and just doing the crossover the old fashion way, the sub was more directonal when crossover was over 80hz..
> 
> 
> 
> Thanx again..



Mine is at 120Hz and it is a Servo 15, 1500 W. It sounds more integrated than before and less noticeable not more







For music it is now much better and I am using it where before I never used the sub.

John


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14384710
> 
> 
> That's an excellent question. In my case ARC sets the sub crossover at 120Hz. I worried about directionality because I had previously rejected a crossover above 110Hz when doing my manual setup using the Velodyne sub's built-in bass EQ system -- because it sounded too directional.
> 
> 
> But whatever ARC is doing under the hood is working brilliantly in my setup.
> 
> --Bob



Correct me if I am wrong but, usually, the LP setting for the sub relates to the LFE source only as the bandwidth for the signals from the other channels is determined by the crossover settings for those channels.


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14384747
> 
> 
> Mine is at 120Hz and it is a Servo 15, 1500 W. It sounds more integrated than before and less noticeable not more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For music it is now much better and I am using it where before I never used the sub.
> 
> John




Thanx.. I have the Servo aswell, and was worried about this..











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14384710
> 
> 
> That's an excellent question. In my case ARC sets the sub crossover at 120Hz. I worried about directionality because I had previously rejected a crossover above 110Hz when doing my manual setup using the Velodyne sub's built-in bass EQ system -- because it sounded too directional.
> 
> 
> But whatever ARC is doing under the hood is working brilliantly in my setup. There is no directionality from the subwoofer -- even when it is pushing enough air that I can see the cloth moving. When you have combined sounds, higher frequencies that should be directional from a main speaker and lower frequencies happening at the same time (which are steered to the subwoofer), the only directionality is what should be there -- i.e., to that main speaker.
> 
> --Bob



Do you find that if the crossover for any of the main 5/7 speakers are set lower than 80hz, they will working too hard on bass? Again, with ARC not on, and any speaker set to below 80hz, the woofers in those speakers seem to be working harder...



Maybe the ARC is not allowing this extra stress?



Thanx again..


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/14384665
> 
> 
> Thanx all for the input about the crossovers...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just one question.. If the arc makes the crossover for the sub high (over 80hz), does anyone find that the sub is more directional??
> 
> 
> 
> Without the ARC, and just doing the crossover the old fashion way, the sub was more directonal when crossover was over 80hz..
> 
> 
> 
> Thanx again..



My sub is placed behind and to one side of the central listening position. ARC has set its xover at 120Hz. And, YES, I do find it is more directional than I like - i.e. I can tell that the low sound effects are coming from it and not simply from every corner of the room as it should be.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14384957
> 
> 
> My sub is placed behind and to one side of the central listening position. ARC has set its xover at 120Hz. And, YES, I do find it is more directional than I like - i.e. I can tell that the low sound effects are coming from it and not simply from every corner of the room as it should be.
> 
> -Ben



Which version of ARC and which version of D2 firmware are you using?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/14384795
> 
> 
> Do you find that if the crossover for any of the main 5/7 speakers are set lower than 80hz, they will working too hard on bass? Again, with ARC not on, and any speaker set to below 80hz, the woofers in those speakers seem to be working harder...



I can't answer this one, in my case ARC has my LF/RF crossover at 80Hz and my Center and Surrounds at 90Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14384786
> 
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong but, usually, the LP setting for the sub relates to the LFE source only as the bandwidth for the signals from the other channels is determined by the crossover settings for those channels.



Yes, that's true, but in real sound tracks, stuff in the LFE usually happens at the same time as stuff is happening in the main channels. You want any directionality to be limited to the main channels. ARC manages to do that quite well in my setup even with the 120Hz sub crossover. Don't ask me how....










--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14385128
> 
> 
> Yes, that's true, but in real sound tracks, stuff in the LFE usually happens at the same time as stuff is happening in the main channels. You want any directionality to be limited to the main channels. ARC manages to do that quite well in my setup even with the 120Hz sub crossover. Don't ask me how....



Yeah. I know. ARC sets my Servo-15 to 100Hz and, although it is in the rear left of the room (not in the corner), it is remarkably unlocalizable.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14385087
> 
> 
> Which version of ARC and which version of D2 firmware are you using?
> 
> --Bob



D2 v1.33 and ARC 1.2.5. I should also mention that Fronts were set to 40Hz, Center 85Hz and Surrounds 45Hz.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14385251
> 
> 
> D2 v1.33 and ARC 1.2.5. I should also mention that Fronts were set to 40Hz, Center 85Hz and Surrounds 45Hz.



Would you mind posting your ARC V1.2.5 charts from the Measurement where the 120Hz subwoofer crossover (chosen by ARC) made the sub too localizeable? Or if you've already posted them, just a link to that post? I'd like to see if there's anything odd in the charts that might explain why your case is different.


Also, double check that the Setup / Speaker Calibration levels uploaded by ARC all make sense, and haven't been altered since that upload. And while you are in there, double check that Room EQ is ON for the source you are using that produces too much localizeable output from the sub, i.e., that ARC's processing is actually turned on.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/14384665
> 
> 
> 
> Just one question.. If the arc makes the crossover for the sub high (over 80hz), does anyone find that the sub is more directional??
> 
> 
> Thanx again..



ARC is setting my sub crossover at 120 hz, and my subs do NOT sound more directional to me. However, I have dual subs set up in the front of my room, and located them carefully in my initial setup. When I had one sub, no matter what my crossover setting, it was localizable to me.


----------



## abc999

I have 4 DIY subs accross the frontstage with a Biamp 34 band PEQ. When I do 5 mic measurements, my crossover is at 75 , when 7 positions are measured 120 is my sub frequency. I know that my 4 subs can push air much more efficiently than my 7 speakers therefore I adjusted the crossover points of all my speakers to 80. FR and LR are at 40 making them almost fullrange, even the center is at 45 and the surrounds at 65. I figured that having a high pass of 80 is better for my speakers as it will cut low frequency resonance from the woofers that would greatly help my midrange as well as speaker dynamics. Setting the crossovers are still determined by ARC at what freq. slopes to use (shallow or steep). The calculated response is after these settings anyway, therefore I would assume that the target or desired response would still be the same.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14382935
> 
> 
> How did the experiment turn out? Could you hear a difference? Which was better?
> 
> --Bob



I think I like my adjusted settings better for my configuration. From the LF and RF graphs, I have a dip at 63 that are not fully remedied by the ARC. My front crossovers are at 40. Increasing the value to 80 made the calculated curve on track with the target curve for all of the speakers in the system.


I think the advance mode is great for further fine tuning ARC.


----------



## joealbracht

My on screen display stopped working.


The D2 is running 1.31. I downloaded and ran ARC 1.2.5. ARC successfully uploaded the results to the D2. I then did a "save user settings" and the on-screen display disappeared before displaying "Done", never to return. Never had any problem before. Any ideas appreciated.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14385937
> 
> 
> Would you mind posting your ARC V1.2.5 charts from the Measurement where the 120Hz subwoofer crossover (chosen by ARC) made the sub too localizeable? Or if you've already posted them, just a link to that post? I'd like to see if there's anything odd in the charts that might explain why your case is different.
> 
> 
> Also, double check that the Setup / Speaker Calibration levels uploaded by ARC all make sense, and haven't been altered since that upload. And while you are in there, double check that Room EQ is ON for the source you are using that produces too much localizeable output from the sub, i.e., that ARC's processing is actually turned on.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Everything checks out fine.

Levels are -

Front L/R -3.5/-3.0

Center +3.5

Surrounds L/R +1.5/+2.0

Sub -4.5

Here are the charts -


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joealbracht* /forum/post/14391181
> 
> 
> My on screen display stopped working.
> 
> 
> The D2 is running 1.31. I downloaded and ran ARC 1.2.5. ARC successfully uploaded the results to the D2. I then did a "save user settings" and the on-screen display disappeared before displaying "Done", never to return. Never had any problem before. Any ideas appreciated.



There are two possibilities here. First, it may just be coincidence. Some people who have lost the On Screen Display have discovered that something simply didn't get initialized properly the last time they installed firmware. A re-install of the firmware fixed the problem. This appears to be random. It is unusual for this problem to manifest after running fine without problems however. Usually if this is your problem, you will see it almost immediately after installing new firmware.


The other is that *ARC V1.2.4, and thus ARC V1.2.5, *REQUIRE VERSION V1.33 OF THE FIRMWARE*.*


Now I'm surprised that the ARC V1.2.5 application didn't check the firmware level and refuse to run. I would also not expect loss of the On Screen Display to be a symptom of running ARC with the wrong firmware. But I suppose that could be what's going on.


In any event, here's what you should do to address both of these possibilities:


* I'm assuming your Save User Settings actually worked according to the Front Panel display, i.e., that loss of the On Screen Display is your only issue here. If you've lost the Front Panel display as well, or have any other reason to believe the Save User Settings didn't actually work, then something more serious is going on and you should STOP HERE and give Anthem tech support a call before proceeding.


* Download and install the V1.33 firmware. It is available from the Anthem public download page. Don't skip any steps. For example, make sure you Reload Factory Defaults before doing the install, and make sure that you have no powered source or display device HDMI connections during the install. Since you are coming from V1.31, you should not need to separately save and restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file (using the Live Video Settings Editor application). The stuff you just Saved to User Settings will contain those. But since we are not certain of the status of your Saved User Settings, it would probably be wise to run Live Video Settings Editor (from the V1.33 install kit) and Get and Save your Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file just in case.


* Presuming the install of V1.33 completes without problems, the next step is to do a Reload Saved User Settings to get back your particular settings.


* Do you have an On Screen Display at this point? If so good, proceed below. Otherwise STOP HERE and give Anthem tech support a call.


* Double check your Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu settings. Everything look OK? Remember that if necessary you can reload your Video Source Adjust menu settings from the PC file you saved above.


* Now run ARC V1.2.5 in Advanced mode. Open the file with your V1.2.5 results. Perform an Upload.


* Do a Save User Settings. Do you still have an On Screen Display. If so, good. Otherwise STOP HERE and give Anthem tech support a call.


* I'm not certain that the ARC V1.2.5 Measurements you did -- the results you just uploaded -- are truly good since I don't know whether ARC V1.2.5 has any dependencies on the V1.33 firmware during the Measurement part of the process. So just to be on the safe side, my recommendation would be, that if everything is good at this point as regards your On Screen Display then you should probably do a NEW ARC V1.2.5 Measurement and Upload those results to replace the ones you just loaded.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joealbracht* /forum/post/14391181
> 
> 
> My on screen display stopped working.
> 
> 
> The D2 is running 1.31. I downloaded and ran ARC 1.2.5. ARC successfully uploaded the results to the D2. I then did a "save user settings" and the on-screen display disappeared before displaying "Done", never to return. Never had any problem before. Any ideas appreciated.



I'm not sure, but I think the latest ARC's need v1.33 to run properly. Contact Anthem tech at the e-mail or phone number on the D2 website if loading v1.33 doesn't work.

The download for v1.33 is on the Anthem/D2 page of their website under the 'latest software' link. Sorry, I'm not computer literate enough to post the link for you.

Follow the included v1.33 downloding instructions carefully for a safe download.

I don't know if you will need to download the ARC1.2.5 again and re-measure or recalculate and upload again. Some of the smarter, more experieced posters (Bob) can advise you on the particulars much better than I can.

Since you can't use your OSD you will have to use the D2 front panel display to do the uploads. Hope this helps.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14391349
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Everything checks out fine.
> 
> Levels are -
> 
> Front L/R -3.5/-3.0
> 
> Center +3.5
> 
> Surrounds L/R +1.5/+2.0
> 
> Sub -4.5
> 
> Here are the charts -



I don't see any problems in your charts (keeping in mind that I don't really know what ARC is doing under the hood). You have some pretty significant room modes between 50 and 120 Hz but it looks like ARC thinks it has them tamed. There are no significant residuals (uncorrected problems) in the low frequencies as far as ARC is telling you.


The Calculated line for your subwoofer is already down by 10dB at 120Hz so the high crossover doesn't seem to be keeping it loud out that far. Which means it SHOULDN'T be localizable.


And the relative levels of the mains and the subwoofer also seem OK to me below that point so I think ARC's Calculations show the overlap of cross overs is working well.


Localizability of the subwoofer is due to the higher frequencies coming from it -- say 80 to 200 Hz. Since you have a pretty big room mode in that region, my one thought is that your mic positions were not spaced far enough apart or did not alternate either side of center as you go from position to position.


That is, ARC has detected the room mode, but hasn't properly corrected for it due to the mic positions being too close, or not alternating. And so you still have more residual variation in high bass response than you should have from seating position to seating position. And if you happen to sit down where an uncorrected high bass peak still remains, then you spot the sound as coming from the subwoofer. If this is the case, then I would expect your perception of subwoofer localizability to vary according to your choice of seating position -- even a few feet would make a difference.


And manually changing the cross overs (e.g., lowering the sub to 80Hz) would not completely eliminate the problem because ARC still has the wrong impression of how to correct for the room modes in your room.


If any of this sounds familiar, then the next step is to rethink your mic positions during the Measurement.


--------------------------------------------


Another possibility is that you have your room configured differently for Measurement than when you are actually listening. The key thing in these low frequencies is cubic feet of air volume (since obviously the basic dimensions of your room aren't going to change). I.e., having a closet or door opened vs. closed can vary the room modes in the bass.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Looks like Bob gave you a much more complete answer while I was composing mine.

But I do have a question for Bob if your still on line.

I just downloaded ARC1.2.5 and remeasured since I wasn't sure if you needed to, and I decided to turn off my subs' eq and let ARC do all the work. I then calculated and uploaded the new ARC.

Everything went perfect. I can't say I notice a difference in quality, which is to say that the sound is still outstanding.

My question is, do I need to erase the previous ARC before uploding the new one? Or does the new upload automatically erase the old one?

I know this may seem like a stupid question,(remember me- I thought I had a magic PS3 controller a week ago) but there is an 'erase' tab on the ARC and I want to make sure that I'm uploading the ARC correctly.

Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

tngiloy,

You do NOT have to Erase the previous ARC results before Uploading the new one. Each Upload replaces any prior Upload.


The Erase function is only needed if you want to remove ARC data from your Anthem -- for example if there is a bug, or if you are selling the unit to someone who wants to start out "from scratch". An Erase via the ARC application, followed by a Reload Factory Defaults in the Setup menu will return the unit to its true factory default state.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

All I can say is "wow!" Had my first hands-on with the ARC last night and I just used the "simple" setting. I used care when placing the microphone in different positions but I didn't measure exactly or anything.


Crossovers were set to 40-45hz range all around. Sub crossover was set at 120hz.


Bass from my 4 JL F113s is spectacular. Great impact, no overhang, not localizable.


Overall imaging and sense of immersion is much improved.


The treble was slightly increased by ARC and this is the only part I'm not crazy about. It's just ever so slightly "forward" sounding. If I had to make a choice between pre-ARC and ARC with "forward" I'd easily go with ARC. I know it's adjustable so I'll just spend some time with it.


Like many people here, I've spent a lot of money on the room itself as far as acoustics and decor goes. The equipment is also expensive. BY FAR, the best bang for the buck is the ARC. It boggles me how cheap it is and how much difference it made, even in a dedicated room.


If anyone is sitting on the fence about purchasing one...are you nuts? just get it, you won't be sorry!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14392176
> 
> 
> Like many people here, I've spent a lot of money on the room itself as far as acoustics and decor goes. The equipment is also expensive. BY FAR, the best bang for the buck is the ARC. It boggles me how cheap it is and how much difference it made, even in a dedicated room.
> 
> 
> If anyone is sitting on the fence about purchasing one...are you nuts? just get it, you won't be sorry!



Ah ha! That explains why these little guys have been scratching on the door trying to get out! They should be at your place soon....







































--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Follow-up on "loud buzz" in Speaker/Calibration issue with ARC V1.2.5:


Nick at Anthem tells me they've been able to reproduce what I'm hearing using the ARC results file I sent them. They are looking into it now to see if it is some sort of corruption in my ARC results file or a bug in ARC itself. Film at 11:00.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

On another topic, Nick mentioned that the issue of "localizable" subwoofers is not subject to easy answers.


Sometimes its a matter of your proximity to the subwoofer ("Using the subwoofer as an end table," as he put it). But there are room characteristics that are just going to make it easier to detect that audio is coming from the subwoofer.


He says ARC is solving real problems by raising the subwoofer cross over up to, say 120Hz, but to trust your ears. If your subwoofer seems too localizable at ARC's default setting, then lower the Target cross over for it a bit and see how much that helps. A lower cross over may very well result in a better compromise solution.


However, you should at least try the ARC defaults first, as you may very well discover they work surprisingly well even though the cross overs appear unusual to you.


---------------------------------


ARC has my sub cross over at 120Hz and that is working great for me, in my room. When I did my prior, manual setup using the Velodyne EQ, I noticed that I could raise the sub cross over no higher than 110Hz before the subwoofer stood out too much. Obviously ARC is handling things differently, but the thing to take away from this is that if ARC sets your cross over to 120Hz, and you notice the subwoofer too much, it may suffice to lower the Target cross over no further than 110Hz or a similar small adjustment. I.e., don't feel you HAVE TO go all the way to 80Hz (or lower) just because 120Hz didn't work well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14392176
> 
> 
> The treble was slightly increased by ARC and this is the only part I'm not crazy about. It's just ever so slightly "forward" sounding. If I had to make a choice between pre-ARC and ARC with "forward" I'd easily go with ARC. I know it's adjustable so I'll just spend some time with it.



By default, ARC works its EQ solution up to 5KHz for each main speaker. When you look at the Calculation lines in the Advanced mode charts, and compare to the Target lines, it should be obvious where ARC set the upper end of its EQ.


So look at Target and Calculated beyond 5KHz. You may discover that raising the Target for Max EQ Frequency helps things.


Or if you really like your prior upper band better, I suppose you might even try LOWERING the Target for Max EQ Frequency.


So far, all the advice I'm getting from Anthem is against raising the Max EQ Frequency Target above the default 5KHz, but at least in my case, in my room, I'm running it at 12KHz right now and it seems to be working just peachy.


Don't overdo raising it though, or you will likely see oscillations appearing in the lower frequency portions of the Calculations line (due to ARC putting some of its resources into the higher frequencies).


-----------------------------------------


ETA: Also the treble results for ARC are sensitive to the height of the microphone during Measurement. Give some thought to whether your first try at the mic positioning might have been higher or lower than seated ear height.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

"So far, all the advice I'm getting from Anthem is against raising the Max EQ Frequency Target above the default 5KHz, but at least in my case, in my room, I'm running it at 12KHz right now and it seems to be working just peachy."



Bob,

What do you mean by peachy. What differences did you detect. Got my new mic stand and was going to remeasure but thought of experimenting a little.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Keep in mind that you can do multiple calculations off of one good set of Measurements. In fact, I recommend you exit ARC and Write Protect the file with the Measurements in them before doing the first Calculation using it.


Then make as many copies as you need of that file and do different Calculations in each -- Write Protecting each of them as you go, and leaving your original Measurements file untouched.


You can can then Open any of those results files and Upload it as and when you choose.


--------------------------------------------


My early experiments with raising Max EQ Frequency above 5KHz, back in the ARC V1.1 era, were not promising. There was a distinct harshness that was obviously wrong, and the curves showed signs that raising that Target had caused ARC to divert resources from lower frequencies. At that time I had tried 10KHz and 20KHz.


Then we got reports that some people here were getting improved results using 12KHz with the current version of ARC (V1.2.2 at that point). So I decided to try it, fully expecting to get the same bad results I had found before. I picked 12KHz not for any reason based on my Measurements or what I was hearing, but simply because that was the number posters had just been talking about.


And much to my surprise there WASN'T any obvious flaw in the results!


I've been trying, since then, to pin down what if anything is really different about the 12KHz results and the 5KHz results I had been using. I think the upper register is cleaner -- particularly for my center channel -- and try as I might I've not been able to catch the 12KHz results doing anything wrong.


So when I just now did my re-Measurement with ARC V1.2.5, I did Calculations at 5KHz, 12KHz, and 20KHz to compare the charts, but decided to Upload the 12KHz results. And that's what I'm listening to now. And it sounds great! I've not loaded the 5KHz or 20KHz results for comparison, but I've really got no complaint about the 12KHz stuff I'm using now, so I'm in no rush to do that.


So "peachy" it is. However, my good results raising this Target may be peculiar to my room and equipment. It is still the case that Nick recommends NOT raising that Target above 5KHz.

--Bob


----------



## joealbracht

I'm happy to report my OSD is now working.


The cure was to load 1.33 into the D2. Everything works & sounds excellent. Now the only problem I have is the D2/ARC highlights the fact that I need start searching for a bigger sub to fill the non-dedicated room I have to use for my home theater. Where does it End?










Thanks to Bob and tngiloy for their advice/suggestions.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Great! I still don't know why the OSD is going out for some folks, but at least the re-install seems to deal with it.


When looking into subs, also keep in mind that a pair of smaller subs may work better than one big sub if you have the room to put them some distance apart. That's because they'll couple differently to the room at different locations which means the bass room modes will be reduced even without going through the effort of bass absorbing room treatments.


Of course you could also talk to DRHANKZ about his "low rider" style floor thumpers that bounce his room down around 1 Hz....









--Bob


----------



## joealbracht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14394681
> 
> 
> When looking into subs, also keep in mind that a pair of smaller subs may work better than one big sub...
> 
> --Bob




Thanks for the sub advice. I'm currently using a pair of Sunfire True subs but with the D2/ARC's help, I'm developing the opinion that they aren't big enough to deal with my large room that is open to another room. I'm thinking of trying something bigger like a DD-18, either adding to or replacing the existing.


I have to ask what DRHANKZ uses to get down to 1 Hz?


----------



## AV-NUT-99

With everything that has been going on with ARC and finally getting mine run and uploaded (which sounds great, by the way - I had some serious room modes going on around 30HZ and 70HZ), I have forgotten to ask if anyone has noticed any problems with the Anthem triggers not working. I have my Velodyne sub amp running off trigger one which used to turn the sub amp on when I powered on the Anthem. I think this was related to the 1.33 upgrade, but I am not sure since I have not really used the system since the upgrade other than to verify and check all my settings and follow directions everyone has provided to get ready for the ARC install. I noticed that my subs were not on when I started doing my measurements, backed out of ARC and rechecked trigger setups. They looked OK, but don't seem to be working. I tried trigger 2 but it did not help.


Thanks,


----------



## AV-NUT-99

Another question on playing with ARC. Does anyone know if it is possible to run a measurement of each speaker from the primary position only, and then save the results in a spearate file to get a look at the individual speaker profiles? Or are you forced to go through the multiple positions? I don't want to calculate and load the Anthem from this measurement, but it could be a very useful tool for comparing different speakers (other brands or models) or different sspeaker or subwoofer locations to get a better understanding of how different configurations would work in a given room.


Thanks again,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The current version of the ARC application doesn't really provide a lot of tools for analysis, and in particular, no, there's no way to just do a single position measurement of your set of speakers.


I wouldn't be surprised if this changes over time, but for now ARC is focussed on the automatic setup stuff.


---------------------------------------------


For the Velodyne, remember that you have to go in and change the setting for how it powers on to look for the 12 volt trigger. By default the Velodyne looks for an audio signal instead. Also, it can be confusing but the Velodyne has its trigger input built into the serial OUTPUT jack. Make sure you are using the correct jack.


I use trigger 3 from the Anthem to power up my DD-15 and its working fine with V1.33.


If you are using a DD series Velodyne, you can easily tell if the Velodyne is waiting on, and then getting the trigger: First disconnect the serial plug providing the trigger. The Velodyne's video should now have the message that it is waiting for the 12 volt input. Now connect the serial plug and turn on the Anthem and that message should go away.


Also remember that in the Anthem, in addition to setting the flag to activate trigger 3 on Power up (for example), you ALSO need to change the setting to Enable the entire set of Triggers in the first place.

--Bob


----------



## AV-NUT-99

Bob,


I have a pair of the SC 12s. 2 passive 12" subs with a SC-1250 amp in my equipment rack. Normally, with the Anthem off and the sub amp in standby, powering on the Anthem also sends a 12 volt signal to the sub amp trigger input turning it on, the amp LED goes to blue and the Display lights up blue showing the current volume setting. Now, nothing happens and I need unplug the trigger cable, then use the sub remote to turn on the Amp. If I leave the trigger cable from the Anthem plugged in, the sub amp will not turn on with the sub amp remote, since it detects the presence of the trigger cable. I verified all my settings, triggers enabled and trigger 1 and 2 set to fire at power up. I have grand kids visiting and they are on the PS-3. When I can get them off, I will try to meter the trigger cable from the Anthem at power on to find out if I am getting the 12 volt output. I will post my results later.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes, that's the right next step. Of course it could be just a break in the wire you are using for the trigger connection. It sounds like you are doing the right stuff to diagnose this.


In any event, my Trigger 3 stuff is working fine with D2 V1.33, so it is not a systemic V1.33 problem. I don't know of any other settings in the D2 that would alter the operation of the Trigger stuff. I presume you are powering on the Main path of the D2, right? That's what ARC will be doing when it sets up to run its test sweep tones.


The only other thing I can think of is that some triggerable devices have a switch to select between pulse and continuous voltage triggers. If your amp is like that, it's possible that switch got bumped. The Anthem sends out a continuous voltage. At the Anthem mini-jack trigger output, the Tip is positive and the Sleeve is ground.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Saved one set of ARC settings in User and another set in Installer. Tried to do a comparison and when I tried to load from Installer, I got an error saying factory default would be loaded. Luckily, the user settings could be loaded back and all was fine. Has this happened to anyone and could it be a problem with the uploaded settings in the first place?

John


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14393478
> 
> 
> Ah ha! That explains why these little guys have been scratching on the door trying to get out! They should be at your place soon....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the bouncies!


If you set the upper limit for ARC at 5khz then the shape of the curve above 5khz doesn't change but it looks like the LEVEL above 5khz is adjusted a little. Am I right about this? i.e. the measured and calculated lines above 5khz are parallel but not at the same volume level, and this alone could change the overall timbre, possibly what I'm experiencing.


I'm sure things will be slightly different when I more carefully place the microphone in each position but it was late and I just wanted to see if it worked.


What is the room gain measurement? Is it how much gain the room has or the amount of gain ARC is applying? I suspect it is how much gain the room has because my room has lots of low end gain and the number is close to 4.


thanks


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14396454
> 
> 
> Saved one set of ARC settings in User and another set in Installer. Tried to do a comparison and when I tried to load from Installer, I got an error saying factory default would be loaded. Luckily, the user settings could be loaded back and all was fine. Has this happened to anyone and could it be a problem with the uploaded settings in the first place?
> 
> John



Not yet.










I just started playing with those this past weekend so that I could compare ARC with Audyssey Pro. I store the settings for ARC+setup in user memory and the appropriate settings for A/P in installer memory. Not the easiest A/B but it has worked, so far, about 2 dozen times.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14396468
> 
> 
> What is the room gain measurement? Is it how much gain the room has or the amount of gain ARC is applying? I suspect it is how much gain the room has because my room has lots of low end gain and the number is close to 4.



As Peter Schuck explained it, studios mix/eq recordings on the assumption that there will be a bump from midbass room gain and since ARC flattens the response, this function allows you to re-insert the room gain in compensation. According to this, leaving out the room gain would result in an anemic sound but, imho, this depends on what you are listening to. It seemed to do well with movies but not so well with the classical music that I mostly listen to so I left the room gain in the MOVIE ARC EQ and minimized it (1dB) in the MUSIC ARC EQ. Nice to have that option.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14396581
> 
> 
> As Peter Schuck explained it, studios mix/eq recordings on the assumption that there will be a bump from midbass room gain and since ARC flattens the response, this function allows you to re-insert the room gain in compensation. According to this, leaving out the room gain would result in an anemic sound but, imho, this depends on what you are listening to. It seemed to do well with movies but not so well with the classical music that I mostly listen to so I left the room gain in the MOVIE ARC EQ and minimized it (1dB) in the MUSIC ARC EQ. Nice to have that option.



According to Nick, a room gain of 0 to 6dB is normal. Mine is at 0.8dB and 0 for music. I am listening to this room gain factor for several days now and I prefer a room gain of around 3.5 dB for movie and around 2 dB for music. My Bass sounds a little thin with the default room gain set by ARC.


Most of the RG that are posted are around 4 dB up. Why then are mine so low (granted they are still normal)? Am I boosting too much the Bass by forcing a higher RG?


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14396701
> 
> 
> According to Nick, a room gain of 0 to 6dB is normal. Mine is at 0.8dB and 0 for music. I am listening to this room gain factor for several days now and I prefer a room gain of around 3.5 dB for movie and around 2 dB for music. My Bass sounds a little thin with the default room gain set by ARC.
> 
> 
> Most of the RG that are posted are around 4 dB up. Why then are mine so low (granted they are still normal)? Am I boosting too much the Bass by forcing a higher RG?



Your observations confirm, I think, the subjectivity of the matter. Schuck maintains that ARC's suggestions should result in a subjectively even response is based on the presumption that all mastering engineers were consistent in their balancing.


----------



## AV-NUT-99

So...no 12 volts on the Trigger out cable and the cable ohms out fine. Looks like I need to go back through the manual and make sure I am setting this up correctly. Again, I will report back.


I will work on it later as it is now time to put on Bella Fleck - Live at the Quick.


Thank you,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14396454
> 
> 
> Saved one set of ARC settings in User and another set in Installer. Tried to do a comparison and when I tried to load from Installer, I got an error saying factory default would be loaded. Luckily, the user settings could be loaded back and all was fine. Has this happened to anyone and could it be a problem with the uploaded settings in the first place?
> 
> John



What you are trying to do won't work, but it shouldn't have screwed up the Installer settings the way you describe.


The ARC Room Correction Parameters are not Saved as part of a Save User and/or Installer Settings. All that you can capture in those are the Setup menu settings and the Video Source Adjust menu settings.


The rest of the ARC stuff is kept separate, and won't even be altered if you do a Reload Factory Defaults -- which is why the ARC application has a special Erase option to get rid of that stuff if you ever want to.


--------------------------------


I suppose that the Anthem firmware may be smart enough to realize that the settings you are trying to reload from Installer are not consistent with the current set of ARC data currently installed (and thus is forcing you to Factory Defaults), but I've not tried to do what you are trying to do so I don't know. It would seem like an odd sort of thing for it to do though.


If you want to compare two sets of ARC results there is no way to do it other than to Upload a new set each time you want to change.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I need recommendations to calibrate my HTPC's video output.

I am posting this thread here because my D2 is in the chain.

First about my config:

- HTPC > D2 via DVI to HDMI cable (high grade)

- HTPC runs vista and has nVidia 8600GTS adapter

- HTPC is my only source for video (for the moment)

- D2 > Sharp XV-Z20000 projector via HDMI cable (very high grade)


What I did:

- I first calibrated my projector using the D2's patterns and Joe Kane's filters.

Now I am trying to calibrate the HTPC's output but I am not happy with the results. The colors looks good but somehow the whites looks gray. Playing with brightness and contrast don't improve the whites, instead my gray and black patterns looks bad.

Do you have any recommendation?

BTW I am using my proj in High Brightness mode. Otherwise it looks too dark.


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14396801
> 
> 
> What you are trying to do won't work, but it shouldn't have screwed up the Installer settings the way you describe.
> 
> 
> The ARC Room Correction Parameters are not Saved as part of a Save User and/or Installer Settings. All that you can capture in those are the Setup menu settings and the Video Source Adjust menu settings.
> 
> 
> The rest of the ARC stuff is kept separate, and won't even be altered if you do a Reload Factory Defaults -- which is why the ARC application has a special Erase option to get rid of that stuff if you ever want to.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------
> 
> 
> I suppose that the Anthem firmware may be smart enough to realize that the settings you are trying to reload from Installer are not consistent with the current set of ARC data currently installed (and thus is forcing you to Factory Defaults), but I've not tried to do what you are trying to do so I don't know. It would seem like an odd sort of thing for it to do though.
> 
> 
> If you want to compare two sets of ARC results there is no way to do it other than to Upload a new set each time you want to change.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I tried this after doing new measurements with the new stand. When I went back to my original measurements, I liked the sound better. Will stick with the original ARC settings which incidentally were taken with the mic about a foot forward from the seat back and doing the symmetrical measurments better. What a surprise it sounded better when done properly









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14397812
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I need recommendations to calibrate my HTPC's video output.
> 
> I am posting this thread here because my D2 is in the chain.
> 
> First about my config:
> 
> - HTPC > D2 via DVI to HDMI cable (high grade)
> 
> - HTPC runs vista and has nVidia 8600GTS adapter
> 
> - HTPC is my only source for video (for the moment)
> 
> - D2 > Sharp XV-Z20000 projector via HDMI cable (very high grade)
> 
> 
> What I did:
> 
> - I first calibrated my projector using the D2's patterns and Joe Kane's filters.
> 
> Now I am trying to calibrate the HTPC's output but I am not happy with the results. The colors looks good but somehow the whites looks gray. Playing with brightness and contrast don't improve the whites, instead my gray and black patterns looks bad.
> 
> Do you have any recommendation?
> 
> BTW I am using my proj in High Brightness mode. Otherwise it looks too dark.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I'm assuming whites look fine when you use the D2's internally generated test patterns. That shows your projector is working fine and the output settings from the D2 are likely correct.


What data format are you sending from the HTPC to the D2? If you are sending RGB, your problem could be in the choice of Studio vs. Extended RGB or you could have the HTPC set to send out one of those but the D2 set to expect the other. The setting in the D2 is in Video Source Adjust / Picture / Input Color Space for that input source.


If you are sending YCbCr from the HTPC, it may have a bug in the way it generates that. Try RGB if you can.


Studio RGB, the normal choice for when you use RGB in the home theater environment, encodes White as digital 235. Extended RGB, often used by computer graphics cards to talk to their monitors, encodes White as digital 255.


If you have the HTPC set to send Studio RGB but the D2 set to expect Extended RGB then the D2 will mistakenly see White in the input stream as being light gray. There may not be enough calibration range to fix that, and trying to fix it will produce problems that also need to be fixed at the Black end. This is just one example of how setting mismatches could produce the problem you are seeing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't believe we've had any posts yet from ARC for AVM customers outside of the few people who live near the Anthem factory and were able to pick up their's at dealers right near there.


I'm just curious about when ARC for AVM will start showing up at US dealers, or overseas for that matter. I believe we had a couple posts from folks who ordered it and were told to expect it this week or early next week.


Please do follow up when it actually gets delivered. One thing I'd like to find out is whether most Anthem dealers end up doing the hardware install part of it for free.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Well I finally upgraded from v1.31 to 1.33 and from ARC1.2.1 to 1.2.5 and it is definately better. I was very reluctant to do this because mine was working and sounded great. I also remeasured using Bob's alternating positions about one foot out from the back of the chair. I can't believe the clairity, the tight solid bass and the airy highs. This is the deal of the century.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

And the crowd goes wild!







































--Bob


----------



## jayray

did some more measurements on my AVM50 using the new stand and with more accurate measurements for height and then watched Die Hard with a Vengence. The bridge collapse scenes had some of the most impressive LFE and after ARC, I was speechless. This was the most impressive example I have experienced with ARC and it passed with flying colours









John


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Before I start moving my gear around, I would like to know if my D2 allow to use the balanced (XLR) outputs for Left and Right channel in conjunction with regular single ended (RCA) outputs for the other channels (except L+R of course).


Actually I am asking because I have the intention of removing (temporarily. or "OMG" permanently?) my stereo High-End preamp from my system. Thus I will need to connect my CD player straight to my D2 and then my D2 straight to 2 monoblocs for the Left and Right channels.


So I will be very happy to get some feedback from "stereo" music freaks/purists amongst you.


For exemple, I would like to know:

- do you think the D2 will be up to the task compared to my Electrocompaniet EC4.8 preamp?

- should I connect my Electrocompaniet EMC 1 UP Cd player to my D2 via analog XLR or via the AES/EBU digital connector meaning I won't use my "supposedly" high-end upsampler?



Thanks


----------



## Eric Carroll




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14405904
> 
> 
> Actually I am asking because I have the intention of removing (temporarily. or "OMG" permanently?) my stereo High-End preamp from my system.



Interesting. I am busy going the other way - putting a 2ch preamp between my sources and making the SSP just a movie source. Why did you decide to remove it? Maybe we should start a thread "preamps - integrated or separate?"...


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Eric Carroll* /forum/post/14406228
> 
> 
> Interesting. I am busy going the other way - putting a 2ch preamp between my sources and making the SSP just a movie source. Why did you decide to remove it? Maybe we should start a thread "preamps - integrated or separate?"...



The thing is, as a purist (or at least this is the way i see myself), I always thought the 2 worlds should be kept separated.

Until I discovered the D2 + ARC.....

Now i am wondering what the ARC will do for stereo music coming from a high-end player....


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Eric Carroll* /forum/post/14406228
> 
> 
> Interesting. I am busy going the other way - putting a 2ch preamp between my sources and making the SSP just a movie source. Why did you decide to remove it? Maybe we should start a thread "preamps - integrated or separate?"...



Eric - there already is a similar thread - Pre-amps with HT pass thru

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=979945


----------



## yacht422

good morning, walt here.

problem! two weeks ago i loaded v1.33 and v1.22 and all went well. the "go-ahead" was given for v1.25, i downloaded same, and problems.

first, 1.25 will not run as i get a 'cannot find the mic correction file'. with that , the install is done. (which whipped out the old settings from 2 weeks back)

so, reverted to v 1.22, which starts the measurement process, measures: l;c;r and one surround, not the other and no sub. then i get a message "failed : error code 0X03.

this happens regardless of std or custom install.

attempted a re-install from original disk, was rebuffed, as there is a newer version on the desktop :i.e. v. 1.25

please help.

thx

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14405904
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Before I start moving my gear around, I would like to know if my D2 allow to use the balanced (XLR) outputs for Left and Right channel in conjunction with regular single ended (RCA) outputs for the other channels (except L+R of course).
> 
> 
> Actually I am asking because I have the intention of removing (temporarily. or "OMG" permanently?) my stereo High-End preamp from my system. Thus I will need to connect my CD player straight to my D2 and then my D2 straight to 2 monoblocs for the Left and Right channels.
> 
> 
> So I will be very happy to get some feedback from "stereo" music freaks/purists amongst you.
> 
> 
> For exemple, I would like to know:
> 
> - do you think the D2 will be up to the task compared to my Electrocompaniet EC4.8 preamp?
> 
> - should I connect my Electrocompaniet EMC 1 UP Cd player to my D2 via analog XLR or via the AES/EBU digital connector meaning I won't use my "supposedly" high-end upsampler?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



I can answer the connection part of this: The XLR outputs and the RCA outputs are always live simultaneously. As is standard for balanced connections, the voltage on the XLR connections differs by 6dB from the voltage on the RCA connectors, so if you are mixing them you will need to account for this. Typically amps with XLR inputs handle this with a switch at the input (or automatically), or of course you could do it in the Setup volume trims. See Section 2.2 of the manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14407189
> 
> 
> good morning, walt here.
> 
> problem! two weeks ago i loaded v1.33 and v1.22 and all went well. the "go-ahead" was given for v1.25, i downloaded same, and problems.
> 
> first, 1.25 will not run as i get a 'cannot find the mic correction file'. with that , the install is done. (which whipped out the old settings from 2 weeks back)
> 
> so, reverted to v 1.22, which starts the measurement process, measures: l;c;r and one surround, not the other and no sub. then i get a message "failed : error code 0X03.
> 
> this happens regardless of std or custom install.
> 
> attempted a re-install from original disk, was rebuffed, as there is a newer version on the desktop :i.e. v. 1.25
> 
> please help.
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



The text file that comes with the V1.25 install kit explains this.


Your original install CD includes two licensing and calibration files. They are easy to spot as their file name is made up of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of the calibrated mic.


Those two files need to be put into the place where the application gets installed for the application to run.


The easiest way to do this is to copy them into the install folder itself (i.e, where the Setup program is) prior to running the Setup program to perform the install of the new version of ARC.


Or you can do it after the install. Copy those two files to:


My Computer, Local Disk C:\\Program Files\\Anthem\\AnthemRoomCorrection


which is where the installer puts the application.


------------------------------------


Now you said you reverted to V1.2.2 but couldn't do it by re-installing it, so I'm puzzled how you did that since the V1.2.5 install should have deleted your prior V1.2.2 install.


Did you move stuff to someplace other than Program Files, or try to run the uninstalled V1.2.2 application from the CD or something?


In any event, go check what is in the AnthemRoomCorrection folder described above. The V1.2.5 version should be the one that's in there.


Let's get your V1.2.5 version working (by copying in those two licensing/calibration files) and we'll work the problem from there.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike

2 questions:


1. I have my D2 (D1-HD) connected to my Sony VPL-VW60 via HDMI and have the HDMI output configuration 1 set to 1080p/60 and the configuration 2 set to 1080p/24. I use configuration 1 for everything, except when I have 1080p/24 native coming out of my PS3.


Problem - the Setup Menu for the D2 seems to be very inconsistent. Sometimes it works great (nice bold lettering and blue background), other times the menu comes up distorted - wavy and black and white, other times it does not display at all.


There does not seem to be a rhyme or reason behind when it works and when it does not. I probably have some setting on the D2 wrong, but can't figure out which one it might be.


Suggestions?


2. My Velodyne SMS-1 has only a composite video output and the D2 does not convert composite to HDMI, which is what I use to my projector. What have others with an SMS-1 done to overcome this problem (this applies to some other equipment I have that only has composite out also)?


Thank you,


Mike


PS - my SMS-1 may become obsolete for me once I get my ARC kit - which is on order....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14408012
> 
> 
> 2 questions:
> 
> 
> 1. I have my D2 (D1-HD) connected to my Sony VPL-VW60 via HDMI and have the HDMI output configuration 1 set to 1080p/60 and the configuration 2 set to 1080p/24. I use configuration 1 for everything, except when I have 1080p/24 native coming out of my PS3.
> 
> 
> Problem - the Setup Menu for the D2 seems to be very inconsistent. Sometimes it works great (nice bold lettering and blue background), other times the menu comes up distorted - wavy and black and white, other times it does not display at all.
> 
> 
> There does not seem to be a rhyme or reason behind when it works and when it does not. I probably have some setting on the D2 wrong, but can't figure out which one it might be.
> 
> 
> Suggestions?
> 
> 
> 2. My Velodyne SMS-1 has only a composite video output and the D2 does not convert composite to HDMI, which is what I use to my projector. What have others with an SMS-1 done to overcome this problem (this applies to some other equipment I have that only has composite out also)?
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> PS - my SMS-1 may become obsolete for me once I get my ARC kit - which is on order....



You can get an inexpensive (Radio Shack) composite to S-Video adapter which will allow you to plug your Composite sources into the D2's S-video inputs. The video quality won't be great of course, but it WILL convert that to HDMI for output.


However you may still have an issue with the SMS-1 as the similar video from their DD subwoofers only puts out half the video fields so the scaler in the D2 has trouble digitizing the signal. I.e., it may work for "pass through" to the D2's S-video output, but you won't see a clean signal on HDMI.


--------------------------------


The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source. It is possible that you have a hardware problem in the S-video portion of your D2. Do you have any other S-video sources? Are they having similar problems?


There was a particular batch of video boards (about 1 months production last spring) that could develop a problem like that. By this point, those that could fail likely have failed and been replaced, but I suppose yours might be a late bloomer.


Alternative, there have been quite a few reports here of folks having problems with the on screen display of Setup which appear to be due to something not having been initialized properly during their last firmware install. The fix for this is simply to re-install the firmware. The latest D2 firmware is V1.33.


So try a firmware install first, and if that doesn't fix your problem, give Anthem tech support a call.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Bob,

Thanks for all your info and experimentation to aid us all. Last week had the pleasure of 4 hrs with Bob McConnell of Anthem. Man, does this guy know his stuff. BTW, he will be teaching at Cedia for Anthem dealers. Get in line now!

As to pricing for labor on ARC upgrade, as Bob said, it will take 15 min or better just to remove the screws. Has anyone ever removed as AVM from its box, place on service bench, remove case, remove board, replace board then reverse rest of process, then check out unit. A bit more time I would suggest. Then consulting with most customers on the phone and possibility of service call if everything cannot be perfectly reinstalled. Also,liability...if ANYTHING goes wrong, guess who's on the hook?

Yes, we will be charging for labor.

Waiting on AVM-50 ARC board, ordered 3 wks ago, but Paradigm/Anthem has been closed last wk and this wk. They will reopen Mon and I will be shipped then. Will report later.

tjg

tjg


----------



## yacht422

bob: thx for the info! i am a 30 year mac guy, 3 week windows guy - basically it is all greek to me.

i am on the way to the h/t and my new pc, to find the files, & move as recommended.

hopefully all will go as per your plan

- - - and, yes, i attempted to re-run 1.22 from the hard disk, after all else failed.

walt


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14408012
> 
> 
> 2 questions:
> 
> 
> 
> Problem - the Setup Menu for the D2 seems to be very inconsistent. Sometimes it works great (nice bold lettering and blue background), other times the menu comes up distorted - wavy and black and white, other times it does not display at all.



Sometimes, I have a similar problem with the setup menu going black and white and every time it happens, the cause is the s-video cable connector (D2 s-video out to monitor s-video in) being partially out of the D2 output s-video connector. For some reason the connector does not seem to grab well and I have to push it in and then it is good. I did not try another cable because it is a long run and I don't have a spare (35 feet) so I don't know if the problem is with the cable connector or the output D2 connector.


----------



## jayray

I've had a similar problem with the display of the setup menu. I get diagonal lines of blue and red. Since I took my AVM50 in for ARC upgrade and reinstalled all the cables, I haven't seen it. If I do, I will certainly check there first.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Follow up on S-Video "Interference Lines" problem*


Some months back I reported a problem I was having with S-video input sources (including the Setup menu). The symptom was that horizontal interference lines would appear -- looking a lot like improperly blanked "horizontal retrace" lines -- and that the the image would not be stable vertically, but would jump around a bit.


It was also the case that after watching any S-video source for long enough (about 20 minutes) the problem would almost completely go away. However, if you went to another source for half an hour or so and then went back to an S-video source, the problem was back as before.


[Please note that this is quite distinct from the problem some have reported here of having "wavy" S-video or Setup menu displays, or having their Setup menu go "black and white" or vanish completely.]


Working with Anthem tech support, we had mixed results that indicated it MIGHT be a software problem related to V1.3x firmware, or that it MIGHT be a hardware problem in my video board. In fact it might be a combo where the software is not picking up properly on variations between video boards, and where my video board had a little more variation than normal.


In any event I wasn't in any rush to get this fixed and so we waited to see if the software guys would come up with something. I also didn't want to do a hardware change while I was testing the new ARC stuff.


---------------------------------------


It finally came time to swap out my video board, and the good news is that the new video board appears to have fixed this problem. I still don't know for sure whether there is a software component to this, but perhaps Anthem will figure that out when they get back the video board that exhibited the problem.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14408012
> 
> 
> ......... My Velodyne SMS-1 has only a composite video output and the D2 does not convert composite to HDMI, which is what I use to my projector. What have others with an SMS-1 done to overcome this problem (this applies to some other equipment I have that only has composite out also)?
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> PS - my SMS-1 may become obsolete for me once I get my ARC kit - which is on order....



Mike,

The easiest is to connect directly to your TV. Myself, I use a PC monitor. If your monitor cannot accomodate an S-Video or composite input directly, you can use a TV tuner like the Vsion VTB100 as an intermediate.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/14408297
> 
> 
> Yes, we will be charging for labor.
> 
> tjg



And here I thought you would be donating your time out of the shear joy of improving the world's audio!










Seriously, it doesn't surprise me that some dealers will charge, at the very least until they get a handle on how easy or hard it actually is and whether there are likely to be any problems afterwards. My understanding is that it is about the same effort as doing the DSP change for the original AVM-20 units.


And I gather there's no additional dealer margin built into the $800 MSRP to cover this?


Anyway, the real point here is to help set expectations for readers here who are considering this upgrade. We already know the MSRP is $800 (including the dealer-installable hardware and the ARC kit itself). If you were trying to guess, on average, what the dealer installation fee would be on top of that across the country, do you think budgeting, what, an additional $100 would be wise?

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

B

No, there is no extra margin built in, actually less than normal product. This is Paradigm after all. One of the lowest margin lines out there, but it does let us offer truly exceptional value products and clients continue to return.


Yes, I would like to perform this service for free, being the altrustic lad I am, to improve the universl order, but I also would like to be here in the future to further serve my clients.


Without having done this upgrade yet, depending on the market, I would estimate $100-$200.


----------



## The Bogg

I don't know if anyone has haggled the asking price for the ARC with their dealer but I find it difficult to believe that there isn't a margin built into the msrp. Same for the dsp upgrade. I think it's unacceptable for a dealer to charge additional money to install it if it only takes that little time. Just one opinion.


----------



## TJG55

Yes, Bogg

that's why there are so many independent dealers out there.

tjg


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14409172
> 
> *Follow up on S-Video "Interference Lines" problem*
> 
> 
> Some months back I reported a problem I was having with S-video input sources (including the Setup menu). The symptom was that horizontal interference lines would appear -- looking a lot like improperly blanked "horizontal retrace" lines -- and that the the image would not be stable vertically, but would jump around a bit.
> 
> 
> It was also the case that after watching any S-video source for long enough (about 20 minutes) the problem would almost completely go away. However, if you went to another source for half an hour or so and then went back to an S-video source, the problem was back as before.
> 
> 
> [Please note that this is quite distinct from the problem some have reported here of having "wavy" S-video or Setup menu displays, or having their Setup menu go "black and white" or vanish completely.]
> 
> 
> Working with Anthem tech support, we had mixed results that indicated it MIGHT be a software problem related to V1.3x firmware, or that it MIGHT be a hardware problem in my video board. In fact it might be a combo where the software is not picking up properly on variations between video boards, and where my video board had a little more variation than normal.
> 
> 
> In any event I wasn't in any rush to get this fixed and so we waited to see if the software guys would come up with something. I also didn't want to do a hardware change while I was testing the new ARC stuff.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> It finally came time to swap out my video board, and the good news is that the new video board appears to have fixed this problem. I still don't know for sure whether there is a software component to this, but perhaps Anthem will figure that out when they get back the video board that exhibited the problem.
> 
> --Bob



I had the OSD problem too a few months ago. I had to send my unit back to the factory. They had to completely reinstall my software to fix the problem. All is well now.


----------



## TREVLAN

"HELP"!!!!!!!


So I got in to Trutone to pickup my ARC and get it installed into my AVM50. alls good it went well walked out and all excited. Get home hook it all up and no Audio.

The front panel reads.. "HDMI AUDIO MUTED, HDCP MONITED NEEDED"

Anthem is closed right so I thought I'd try you always helpful forum people...lol


Cabel / PS3 / SACD NOTHING. i do get picture on the ps3 , but not on the cabel box.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14410681
> 
> 
> "HELP"!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> So I got in to Trutone to pickup my ARC and get it installed into my AVM50. alls good it went well walked out and all excited. Get home hook it all up and no Audio.
> 
> The front panel reads.. "HDMI AUDIO MUTED, HDCP MONITED NEEDED"
> 
> Anthem is closed right so I thought I'd try you always helpful forum people...lol
> 
> 
> Cabel / PS3 / SACD NOTHING. i do get picture on the ps3 , but not on the cabel box.



Don't Panic!


First, you need to install V1.33 after the ARC related DSP hardware change is made. This is true even if you ALREADY have V1.33 installed.


Don't skip any steps when doing that install. Make sure you Reload Factory Defaults prior to the install and that you have no powered HDMI source or display connections during the install. If you have your settings saved in Saved User and/or Installer settings you can reload from those after the install.


After doing that, double check your connections, then start with the basics.


Can you get the Setup menu to display? If not, use the Front Panel to view your Setup menu settings. Start with the Video Output configuration menu and make any adjustments necessary to get video.


Once you can get the Setup menu to display, check through the rest of your settings and see if your settings have been reloaded properly. If not, correct them.


Since you don't have ARC results loaded into the Anthem yet, the Source Setup / Room EQ should be set to OFF for every source at this point.


By this point you should know that your Speaker Configuration settings are correct. Now go to the Speaker Calibration menu and see if the Anthem's test tones are coming out of the correct speakers.


Given that this is working, try a NON-HDMI audio source, is that working?


Now try your HDMI audio sources again.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2 V1.32c (June 26) version of the firmware has been removed from the password protected download page. This was the "alpha" software test version that was testing the new HDMI code. With any luck this means a new test version of the firmware with the next try at that new HDMI code will come out soon.

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

OK I uploaded v1.33 to the avm50 all is good again. Thanks Bob.

I should of read a few posts back, which I did but after I made my post.


Now next question, I don't need to load the ARC v1.25 untill I actually run the ARC, am I correct?


----------



## dwwhitley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14409172
> 
> *Follow up on S-Video "Interference Lines" problem*
> 
> 
> Some months back I reported a problem I was having with S-video input sources (including the Setup menu). The symptom was that horizontal interference lines would appear -- looking a lot like improperly blanked "horizontal retrace" lines -- and that the the image would not be stable vertically, but would jump around a bit.
> 
> 
> It was also the case that after watching any S-video source for long enough (about 20 minutes) the problem would almost completely go away. However, if you went to another source for half an hour or so and then went back to an S-video source, the problem was back as before.
> 
> 
> [Please note that this is quite distinct from the problem some have reported here of having "wavy" S-video or Setup menu displays, or having their Setup menu go "black and white" or vanish completely.]
> 
> 
> Working with Anthem tech support, we had mixed results that indicated it MIGHT be a software problem related to V1.3x firmware, or that it MIGHT be a hardware problem in my video board. In fact it might be a combo where the software is not picking up properly on variations between video boards, and where my video board had a little more variation than normal.
> 
> 
> In any event I wasn't in any rush to get this fixed and so we waited to see if the software guys would come up with something. I also didn't want to do a hardware change while I was testing the new ARC stuff.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> It finally came time to swap out my video board, and the good news is that the new video board appears to have fixed this problem. I still don't know for sure whether there is a software component to this, but perhaps Anthem will figure that out when they get back the video board that exhibited the problem.
> 
> --Bob



Bob: I upgraded my 30 to an HD30 last month. It arrived with 1.31 firmware and presented in the same manner regarding horizontal lines in the set up menu and video '7 key' menu. However, my lines stayed in place when going out of menu and into satelite viewing even with sources 720i or higher. Note that the lines would only present if I entered the menu several times or spent quite a bit of time in the menu. I found that I had to turn off AVM and turn back on to get rid of the horizontal lines. Additionally, s-video sources would show white broken horizontal lines on a light grey background at the top of the screen approximately 20 pixels (or more) thick. The vertical hold on s-video would shift from two broken lines visible to one line visible then back again.


Anthem support suggested upgrading to 1.33 fw and since then I have not been able to reproduce the horizontal lines in menu. However, the two vertical broken lines are still at the top of the screen when viewing s-video sources. I am going to call Anthem and let them know that 1.33 firmware has not yet completely fixed my problem.


BTW, I have the red video card and, other than this one (fingers crossed) problem, I am very pleased with my HD30.


I just remembered that my wife notified me that the horizontal lines appeared while watching DTV prior to the 1.33 fw upgrade and did so with normal viewing without entering the menus.

--Don


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14411767
> 
> 
> OK I uploaded v1.33 to the avm50 all is good again. Thanks Bob.
> 
> I should of read a few posts back, which I did but after I made my post.
> 
> 
> Now next question, I don't need to load the ARC v1.25 untill I actually run the ARC, am I correct?




ARC 1.2.5 is loaded to your laptop or PC and not directly to the AVM50


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14411767
> 
> 
> OK I uploaded v1.33 to the avm50 all is good again. Thanks Bob.
> 
> I should of read a few posts back, which I did but after I made my post.
> 
> 
> Now next question, I don't need to load the ARC v1.25 untill I actually run the ARC, am I correct?



Right.


Install V1.33 in the AVM-50 (again if necessary) to get the newly installed DSP hardware recognized.


Install ARC V1.2.5 on your PC when you are ready to use it.


Take the ARC Measurements using that PC, Calculate the results and Upload the results to the AVM-50 when you are ready.


Then turn ON Setup / Source Setup / Room EQ for all of your sources.


Finally, Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the Setup menu changes that ARC makes during the Upload.


I'm glad things are working for you! Let us know how it sounds when you finally turn on the ARC stuff!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dwwhitley* /forum/post/14412120
> 
> 
> Bob: I upgraded my 30 to an HD30 last month. It arrived with 1.31 firmware and presented in the same manner regarding horizontal lines in the set up menu and video '7 key' menu. However, my lines stayed in place when going out of menu and into satelite viewing even with sources 720i or higher. Note that the lines would only present if I entered the menu several times or spent quite a bit of time in the menu. I found that I had to turn off AVM and turn back on to get rid of the horizontal lines. Additionally, s-video sources would show white broken horizontal lines on a light grey background at the top of the screen approximately 20 pixels (or more) thick. The vertical hold on s-video would shift from two broken lines visible to one line visible then back again.
> 
> 
> Anthem support suggested upgrading to 1.33 fw and since then I have not been able to reproduce the horizontal lines in menu. However, the two vertical broken lines are still at the top of the screen when viewing s-video sources. I am going to call Anthem and let them know that 1.33 firmware has not yet completely fixed my problem.
> 
> 
> BTW, I have the red video card and, other than this one (fingers crossed) problem, I am very pleased with my HD30.
> 
> 
> I just remembered that my wife notified me that the horizontal lines appeared while watching DTV prior to the 1.33 fw upgrade and did so with normal viewing without entering the menus.
> 
> --Don



Horizontal lines in the body of the image are definitely a sign of trouble. Getting to the latest firmware is a good first step, but if those lines are still there you need to get serious about isolating where they are coming from.


The first question should be, do you still get them if you use the Anthem's internally generated test patterns (Video Source Adjust / Patterns)? Those patterns are independent of any source video device. If you do, then the next step is to disconnect everything from your system except for the power to the Anthem and the TV and the connection between the Anthem and the TV. That's it. No audio connections for example. There should be nothing else connected to the TV either. Then see if the problem still exists. If so then you can be pretty certain it is a hardware issue in the Anthem. If NOT then you reconnect things one at a time until the interference reappears.


When discussing this with Anthem you will need to describe precisely what you are seeing since there are particular sources of interference which each have their own tell-tale patterns. For example, if the horizontal interference appears to be moving slowly up the screen at a constant rate then that's a sign of 60Hz power line interference. When you talk to Anthem expect to answer some questions about what the interference looks like.


You could have a hardware problem or you could have some sort of external interference which is getting into your video. The single most common source of garbage getting into people's systems is interference that comes in along the shield part of their cable or satellite TV feed. So whenever you have a problem like this one common step is to temporarily disconnect the feed wire between the wall and your cable or satellite receiver to see if the problem goes away. If so there are solutions. Interference of this type travels between boxes in your system along the shields of the cables connecting them, so it is often difficult to isolate which box is generating the problem unless you go about it in a logical manner -- disconnecting and isolating portions of your system. But if disconnecting the cable/satellite feed eliminates the interference then you know you've got it nailed.


-------------------------------------


The lines at the top of your S-video sources could be something else entirely. A typical video setup with the Anthem will cause your display to show every last pixel, right out to each of the 4 edges. Usually this is good. But some sources produce garbage on the edges of the signal simply because they expect you to be using a less perfect video setup that conceals the true edges of the image off screen -- called "overscan".


For example, Closed Captioning information often appears in the top few rows of the image. And local stations that rebroadcast national feeds sometimes offset the image horizontally by a few pixels leading to garbage on one edge or the other.


This sort of problem is in the content. It is not a failure of your stuff.


The Anthem offers an easy way to deal with this. In Video Source Adjust / Crop Input for that source turn Edges ON and select a number of pixels. A strip that many pixels wide will be cropped out all the way around the image.

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

Bob, What is really interesting is [Note* I have not run ARC yet] the sound quality is better already, I have done nothing but reload my user settings. Wierd yes or could it be the help of the dual DSP?


Another note, my SAVE USER SETTINGS will not accept my password. I emailed Nick on how to fix this.


Also the talk around here re: Dealers charging for the install , My thing is, the install is so easy do you/we really need the dealer to do this, will it void warranty if done by end user?

Mine is done and the dealer did the install but I'm just asking for anyone interested in this.

Also next is, what do I do with the extra Single DSP? A rebate from Anthem would be cool . I mean even 20$ off your new ARC with the return of the old DSP chip set.


I don't know I'm just typing out loud here.


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14413592
> 
> 
> 
> Another note, my SAVE USER SETTINGS will not accept my password. I emailed Nick on how to fix this.




There is a sequence of buttons to press on the front panel to allow you to reset a forgotten or incorrect password. Stupid me, I didn't write it down when Anthem service went through it with me. Perhaps you will, and post it so we have a record of the sequence for the users of the forum.


----------



## yacht422

bob: walt here, still bad news. i FINALLY found the mic correction file, moved by drag and drop to the arc folder[will *not* load into the anthem room correction file], verified it is in there, started the measurement, ok for L;C;R;R surround( as per yesterday) , then the arc goes looking for REAR SPEAKER(i am surround, only, and they are all connected properly) and then the error (0X03) reappears and i am done.

[i re calculated my original measurements from 3 weeks ago done at 5khz, increased to 12khz and all works fine -not overly pleased with the sound, but we are up and running]

however, based on yours and others scripts, i believe i can improve on the overall results with a more refined measurement - - which brings us back to square one.

thx again

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14413592
> 
> 
> Bob, What is really interesting is [Note* I have not run ARC yet] the sound quality is better already, I have done nothing but reload my user settings. Wierd yes or could it be the help of the dual DSP?
> 
> 
> Another note, my SAVE USER SETTINGS will not accept my password. I emailed Nick on how to fix this.



As far as I know the extra DSP is idle until you Upload ARC results. I don't know what firmware version you were running prior to putting in the DSP, but the upgrade to V1.33 could be the cause.


The password issue may be a bug in the firmware install process, so it is good you emailed Anthem.


The procedure to clear the password and start over is in Section 3.14 of the Manual. If that doesn't work, Nick will have to help you. Remember that you have to use the remote to enter the password (not the Front Panel buttons).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14413674
> 
> 
> There is a sequence of buttons to press on the front panel to allow you to reset a forgotten or incorrect password. Stupid me, I didn't write it down when Anthem service went through it with me. Perhaps you will, and post it so we have a record of the sequence for the users of the forum.



Ah! Interesting. I was not aware of such a procedure.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14415190
> 
> 
> bob: walt here, still bad news. i FINALLY found the mic correction file, moved by drag and drop to the arc folder[will *not* load into the anthem room correction file], verified it is in there, started the measurement, ok for L;C;R;R surround( as per yesterday) , then the arc goes looking for REAR SPEAKER(i am surround, only, and they are all connected properly) and then the error (0X03) reappears and i am done.
> 
> [i re calculated my original measurements from 3 weeks ago done at 5khz, increased to 12khz and all works fine -not overly pleased with the sound, but we are up and running]
> 
> however, based on yours and others scripts, i believe i can improve on the overall results with a more refined measurement - - which brings us back to square one.
> 
> thx again
> 
> walt



Unlike the Mac, Windows does not store application related files inside the "file" for the application program itself. Copying those two licensing/calibration files to the folder containing the installed application program file was the right thing to do.


When you run the ARC Measurements it puts up a set of check boxes for you to specify which speakers will be part of the configuration.


If you do not have rear speakers you must clear the check box for rear speakers.


The error simply indicates that ARC tried to send the test sweep tones to the rear speakers but they weren't there.


ARC wants you to specify this, even though it is already specified in your Setup / Speaker Configuration menu in the Anthem, because there are cases where you might want to set up a configuration that doesn't actually use all of your speakers. For example I have ARC set up a separate Movie and Music configuration with the difference being that I tell it not to use the Center speaker in the Music configuration.

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

Hi Bob, I will recheck the manual but I don't recall seeing it.


As for the f/w I had before I can't remember but it was a 1.xx lol like that will help you. It was the one that fixed the PS3 popping noise issue.

This was just from listening to the Cable and I was like wow this is strange it sounds better, even my wife commented on it. I can't wait to hear Bluray tonight , and then do some ARC measurements.


I will report back.


----------



## yacht422

send me to bed early with tears in my eyes, and visions of emoticons dancing pyramidally on bob's chest!

yes, after mucho guidance from bob, V1.25 is installed and functioning.

i just finished watching Mahlers Sixth (Abbado / Lucerne / Euroarts) and there is a definite improvement. nont the dramatic improvement those with younger ears are reporting, but, the bass is tighter, the strings more pleasing and the treble not 'screechy', which can happen.

the numbers all changed from the last measurement as well.

first i lowered the chair backs (8) to a normal listening position. Then i was very careful in the placement of the mic. finally, i converted the measurements to 12,000 khz.

final results are front l;r still crossed at 40 hz, but the ctr is now 90(from 100) the surrounds are 90(from 105) the sub 90(from 120)

also, the boost(+/-) changes on all speakers as well.

basically a different room!!

finally, again, my appreciation to bob for recognizing that my problem was not ARC, but my failure to read the instructions.

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Walt,

Fortunately, these don't come with any instructions you have to read!















































--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14417034
> 
> 
> but my failure to read the instructions.
> 
> walt



This is a commend trend. who read instructions these days


----------



## TREVLAN

ok I just ran ARC , my charts don't look right or I really have a bad room, I have treatments for the 1st reflection but they are not up yet.

Could someone tell me, how do I upload pictures please?


----------



## TREVLAN

I hope I'm doing this right


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Trevlan,

The only really bad thing in your charts is your subwoofer. Something is definitely not right there.


You've got a pretty severe room mode around 200 Hz showing up in the Measured lines for all your main speakers (red lines), but it looks like ARC is handling that (green lines). You've got another around 50 Hz that the front speakers are running afoul of, but again ARC is handling that. However your subwoofer is dropping off a cliff way too fast in the lower frequencies.


Your subwoofer is acting like it isn't really a subwoofer. I don't know what sorts of settings you have on your subwoofer, but something is definitely wrong there. Double check how it is connected up as well -- i.e., whether there is any chance you are using the wrong connection jack on the subwoofer.


It's bad enough that it looks like your subwoofer might be broken.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

********************************************************


RESTARTING AFTER AVS DATABASE FAILURE


********************************************************


I just wanted to put a marker message in here to reflect the loss of posts in this thread (and the rest of AVS) between August 2, 2008, and August, 11, 2008. By my recollection of post counts, some 300 posts have been lost in this thread alone.


For people who check this thread infrequently, the most important item I can think of that got lost is that a new ARC "test" version, V1.2.6, has appeared on Anthem's password protected download site, but so far everyone who has tried it, including me, has reported it appears to have some problem in handling bass properly. And we've all gone back to the current "official" V1.2.5 release.


The ARC V1.2.6 "test" version install folder also includes updated D2 and AVM40/50 V1.3x Operating Manuals dated 8/8/2008. There don't appear to be any major changes in those manuals.


Many of the lost posts related to people posting their initial ARC results and folks commenting on those. I think everyone who posted results had a chance to read the responses before AVS had its stroke, but if not you'll just have to repost your charts and ask again.


If anyone can think of any other key news items that might have gotten lost, just repost them or PM me, and I'll try to edit a summary of them into this post.

*********************************************************


All posts between August 2 and August 11 2008 HAVE BEEN LOST!


*********************************************************


============================================================ =============

*ADDITIONAL LOST NEWS ITEMS*


* Anthem has reproduced a "hiss" problem in the AVM units. The symptom most commonly reported is a brief "hiss" just as audio starts up. They are working on it now. My guess is that it has something to do with how the new firmware interacts with the new DSP board used for the ARC upgrade.


* We've had a handful of people report complete loss of their Setup menu settings as result of doing an ARC Upload with V1.2.5 and now V1.2.6. The settings all appear to return to Factory Defaults. It is not known yet what triggers this. But if you have a good copy of your old settings in Saved User and/or Installer Settings then recovery is easy: Exit ARC, power cycle the Anthem to get it into a fresh state, Reload Saved User Settings (using the Front Panel Display), run ARC in Advanced mode, Open your latest ARC results file, and Upload it again. Confirm that everything looks good in Setup at this point, and, if so, Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the changes made by the ARC Upload.


--Bob


----------



## jayray

Have just finished testing ARC at 12 kHz. Music sounded great seemed to have a little more detail, bass response dead on. Movies same, with great detail and very tight sub. Mid range remained excellent. Can't detect any negative effects so will leave it for awhile. Given the difference it may be more than a while









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14420677
> 
> ********************************************************
> 
> 
> RESTARTING AFTER AVS DATABASE FAILURE
> 
> 
> ********************************************************
> 
> 
> I just wanted to put a marker message in here to reflect the loss of posts in this thread (and the rest of AVS) between August 2, 2008, and August, 11, 2008. By my recollection of post counts, some 300 posts have been lost in this thread alone.
> 
> 
> For people who check this thread infrequently, the most important item I can think of that got lost is that a new ARC "test" version, V1.2.6, has appeared on Anthem's password protected download site, but so far everyone who has tried it, including me, has reported it appears to have some problem in handling bass properly. And we've all gone back to the current "official" V1.2.5 release.
> 
> 
> The ARC V1.2.6 "test" version install folder also includes updated D2 and AVM40/50 V1.3x Operating Manuals dated 8/8/2008. There don't appear to be any major changes in those manuals.
> 
> 
> Many of the lost posts related to people posting their initial ARC results and folks commenting on those. I think everyone who posted results had a chance to read the responses before AVS had its stroke, but if not you'll just have to repost your charts and ask again.
> 
> 
> If anyone can think of any other key news items that might have gotten lost, just repost them or PM me, and I'll try to edit a summary of them into this post.
> 
> *********************************************************
> 
> 
> All posts between August 2 and August 11 2008 HAVE BEEN LOST!
> 
> 
> *********************************************************
> 
> 
> ============================================================ =============
> 
> *ADDITIONAL LOST NEWS ITEMS*
> 
> 
> * Anthem has reproduced a "hiss" problem in the AVM units. The symptom most commonly reported is a brief "hiss" just as audio starts up. They are working on it now. My guess is that it has something to do with how the new firmware interacts with the new DSP board used for the ARC upgrade.
> 
> 
> * We've had a handful of people report complete loss of their Setup menu settings as result of doing an ARC Upload with V1.2.5 and now V1.2.6. The settings all appear to return to Factory Defaults. It is not known yet what triggers this. But if you have a good copy of your old settings in Saved User and/or Installer Settings then recovery is easy: Exit ARC, power cycle the Anthem to get it into a fresh state, Reload Saved User Settings (using the Front Panel Display), run ARC in Advanced mode, Open your latest ARC results file, and Upload it again. Confirm that everything looks good in Setup at this point, and, if so, Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the changes made by the ARC Upload.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

my hissing started well before the DSP upgrade as did some other AVM users. Nevertheless, I am glad they're working on it and can reproduce it. If my memory serves me, Nick mentioned it was reproduced well before the upgrade as well.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14421209
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> my hissing started well before the DSP upgrade as did some other AVM users. Nevertheless, I am glad they're working on it and can reproduce it. If my memory serves me, Nick mentioned it was reproduced well before the upgrade as well.
> 
> John



Did you go to V1.33 firmware before doing the ARC upgrade? I think the hissing may be related to changes they made in the firmware in preparation for the ARC upgrade for AVM units.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14421187
> 
> 
> Have just finished testing ARC at 12 kHz. Music sounded great seemed to have a little more detail, bass response dead on. Movies same, with great detail and very tight sub. Mid range remained excellent. Can't detect any negative effects so will leave it for awhile. Given the difference it may be more than a while
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I note that in the 8/8 version of the Manual, Nick has relaxed his warning about raising the Max EQ Frequency Target above the default 5KHz. He still points out the potential problem (biased Measurements due to directionality in the high frequencies -- resulting in Calculated results that look better than they really are). But he now suggests this may be a problem mainly for people whose speakers are not mounted so that the tweeters are all at seated ear height.


This would most likely be the case for people with wall mounted surrounds for example.


He offers no guidance for how to select a higher frequency. Other than just testing multiple Calculations by ear, the only thing I can think of is targeting specific problems in the high frequency charts, but not cranking it up so high that the lower frequencies in the charts start to wobble too much above and below the target line.


--------------------------------------------------


In my case, my tweeters are all at seated ear height, and I've had good results using a 12KHz Target here. How 'bout the rest of you who've tried this?


Anybody getting good (or bad) results raising this while using, for example, wall mounted speakers mounted above seated ear height? A problem here might be more noticeable if you've got your front speakers mounted low or high, but, for example, a Center speaker mounted above a screen might also exhibit a problem. We're still trying to pin down what a "problem" here might sound like to advise people what to watch out for.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14421209
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> my hissing started well before the DSP upgrade as did some other AVM users. Nevertheless, I am glad they're working on it and can reproduce it. If my memory serves me, Nick mentioned it was reproduced well before the upgrade as well.
> 
> John



I have an D1-HD and experienced probably about 1/2 second or so of hissing from the speakers last night when I switched channels last night on my DVR when the channel I was watching had froze (a TWC problem, not D2) and I switched to a different channel on my DVR.


It was not something that was loud enough to harm speakers, but it made me jump a little as it was unexpected.


Just an FYI.


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14421312
> 
> 
> I have an D1-HD and experienced probably about 1/2 second or so of hissing from the speakers last night when I switched channels last night on my DVR when the channel I was watching had froze (a TWC problem, not D2) and I switched to a different channel on my DVR.
> 
> 
> It was not something that was loud enough to harm speakers, but it made me jump a little as it was unexpected.
> 
> 
> Just an FYI.
> 
> 
> Mike



As far as I know, Anthem has not reproduced this problem on the D1-HD or D2. Your problem may have been due to the cable box, but maybe not. If it happens again, send Anthem tech support an email with the details.


How are you connected for audio from the TWC box to D1-HD? HDMI audio or Optical/Coax audio?


The folks who have the AVM hissing issue can reproduce it quite easily. It happens pretty much every time a new audio stream starts up.

--Bob


----------



## Massimo N

I have noticed a bug that I would like confirmation on (I'm trying to narrow down if it is a player issue or an Anthem issue). While watching "Chinese Coffee" from the "Al Pacino Collection Box Set" on my Toshiba HD-A30, the 5.0 DD audio comes through as only 2 channel (L/R). The other 3 channels are missing (hense, no voice and ambient effects). I was sending over the DD as PCM. When I switched the HD-A30 to automatic, so bitstream is sent, it comes through o.k. and displays correctly as DD 5.0.


I tried the same movie through my Panasonic DVD player sending PCM and it comes through o.k. but shows up as 5.1 (not 5.0). I suspect the Panasonic is sending a 5.1 flag.


Do you think this is the player sending only a 2CH flag, while sending all 5.0 channels or the anthem not able to accept a 5.0 PCM? I tried the same movie on the same player to my Panasonic receiver (living room) and it played and showed correctly (5.0).


Is anyone able to send a 5.0 PCM signal to their AVM (or D1/2) and the Anthem is showing it is receiving a 5.0 PCM signal? If it shows as 5.1, the player/disk is sending a different flag than the original movie.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Massimo N* /forum/post/14421411
> 
> 
> I have noticed a bug that I would like confirmation on (I'm trying to narrow down if it is a player issue or an Anthem issue). While watching "Chinese Coffee" from the "Al Pacino Collection Box Set" on my Toshiba HD-A30, the 5.0 DD audio comes through as only 2 channel (L/R). The other 3 channels are missing (hense, no voice and ambient effects). I was sending over the DD as PCM. When I switched the HD-A30 to automatic, so bitstream is sent, it comes through o.k. and displays correctly as DD 5.0.
> 
> 
> I tried the same movie through my Panasonic DVD player sending PCM and it comes through o.k. but shows up as 5.1 (not 5.0). I suspect the Panasonic is sending a 5.1 flag.
> 
> 
> Do you think this is the player sending only a 2CH flag, while sending all 5.0 channels or the anthem not able to accept a 5.0 PCM? I tried the same movie on the same player to my Panasonic receiver (living room) and it played and showed correctly (5.0).
> 
> 
> Is anyone able to send a 5.0 PCM signal to their AVM (or D1/2) and the Anthem is showing it is receiving a 5.0 PCM signal? If it shows as 5.1, the player/disk is sending a different flag than the original movie.



There were some reports a while back that people were having troubles playing some of the SACDs out there that have unusual speaker setups (e.g. 4.0) using an Oppo player and HDMI PCM audio.


At the time, I believe it was thought this was an Oppo problem, but I'm not sure that proved to be true. Oppo was undoubtedly in touch with Anthem on this, and so you might want to send an email to Anthem tech support and see if they have any updates on this, and in particular whether they know it to be a player problem with your player.


I presume you are already on the V1.33 Anthem firmware. If not they will likely suggest you try that as a first step.


ETA: I don't think I own any 5.0 tracks that I can try this way.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14421223
> 
> 
> Did you go to V1.33 firmware before doing the ARC upgrade? I think the hissing may be related to changes they made in the firmware in preparation for the ARC upgrade for AVM units.
> 
> --Bob



I had the problem with hissing with firmware 1.1e as I remember. I changed to other firmware versions hoping it would solve this but they never did. Hope the next one does. I really seems to depend on whether the hdmi connection has been made not just when audio starts. As ps3 or XA2 are trying to sync with the AVM, the hissing starts, but doesn't do it when playing cds with my ARCAM player. It also doesn't do it with my 8300 digital box and this is connected with hdmi. Go figure









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14421269
> 
> 
> I note that in the 8/8 version of the Manual, Nick has relaxed his warning about raising the Max EQ Frequency Target above the default 5KHz. He still points out the potential problem (biased Measurements due to directionality in the high frequencies -- resulting in Calculated results that look better than they really are). But he now suggests this may be a problem mainly for people whose speakers are not mounted so that the tweeters are all at seated ear height.
> 
> 
> This would most likely be the case for people with wall mounted surrounds for example.
> 
> 
> He offers no guidance for how to select a higher frequency. Other than just testing multiple Calculations by ear, the only thing I can think of is targeting specific problems in the high frequency charts, but not cranking it up so high that the lower frequencies in the charts start to wobble too much above and below the target line.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In my case, my tweeters are all at seated ear height, and I've had good results using a 12KHz Target here. How 'bout the rest of you who've tried this?
> 
> 
> Anybody getting good (or bad) results raising this while using, for example, wall mounted speakers mounted above seated ear height? A problem here might be more noticeable if you've got your front speakers mounted low or high, but, for example, a Center speaker mounted above a screen might also exhibit a problem. We're still trying to pin down what a "problem" here might sound like to advise people what to watch out for.
> 
> --Bob



I have checked movies which I have used many, many times when tweaking sound. They all sound more detailed, very solid LFE and no hint of increased directionalilty. I have 4 dipole surrouds on the wall and the surround affect has improved as well. The soundfield has expanded slightly as well and the overall effect is awesome. If I find a negative I will post, but for now I will enjoy.









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14421669
> 
> 
> I had the problem with hissing with firmware 1.1e as I remember. I changed to other firmware versions hoping it would solve this but they never did. Hope the next one does. I really seems to depend on whether the hdmi connection has been made not just when audio starts. As ps3 or XA2 are trying to sync with the AVM, the hissing starts, but doesn't do it when playing cds with my ARCAM player. It also doesn't do it with my 8300 digital box and this is connected with hdmi. Go figure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Well it was just my guess that the hissing was related to the AVM ARC upgrade. Perhaps it is just that the upgrade makes it more easy to reproduce. I don't know.


I presume you've let Anthem tech support know you still have this long-standing problem. Let's hope the fix they are working on also helps in your case.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I let Nick know when he did my DSP upgrade. He still thought it was firmware related.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just to get the ball rolling again, here are the charts for my current set of ARC V1.2.5 results -- Calculated at 12KHz. The previous post of these was one of the posts lost due to the AVS database failure:



















--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14421371
> 
> 
> As far as I know, Anthem has not reproduced this problem on the D1-HD or D2. Your problem may have been due to the cable box, but maybe not. If it happens again, send Anthem tech support an email with the details.
> 
> 
> How are you connected for audio from the TWC box to D1-HD? HDMI audio or Optical/Coax audio?
> 
> 
> The folks who have the AVM hissing issue can reproduce it quite easily. It happens pretty much every time a new audio stream starts up.
> 
> --Bob



I am guessing that it is a TWC SA8300HDC DVR problem and not the D2. However, I have never been able to get the HDMI audio to work properly between the 8300 HDC and the D2.


I was first connected via HDMI alone and when the native output of the cable box was 720p or 1080i the audio came through fine. When the output was 480p or 480i I received no sound.


I then hooked up the digital coaxial connection for sound and reconfigured the D2 for audio from the coaxial connection and I have no problems with the sound.


In addition, I have the 8300 HDC set for 16x9 output and it is constantly changing on its own to 4x3 when I change channels without any real ryhme or reason behind when it happens. I know the 8300 HDC has had this problem reported before, but it was supposedly fixed. I don't know if there is a handshaking issue between the D2 and the 8300HDC that could cause this to happen, but then I am pretty ignorant on how handshaking and communication via the two units works (actually three when you factor in my Sony VPL-VW60) with HDMI. I don't know if something I may have set up with the video for the D2 could cause the 8300HDC to automatically change to 4x3 when handshaking occurs for some channels.......


----------



## jayray

Here are my 12 kHz graphs. dipoles for all back and surround.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14422514
> 
> 
> Here are my 12 kHz graphs. dipoles for all back and surround.



Looks good to me! You still have a few dB drop in your side surrounds at 12KHz but nothing to worry about in my opinion. I am surprised, though, that ARC didn't roll off the Target curve up there for your dipoles.


I guess we still haven't figured out just when and why ARC rolls off the Target curve up there for some folks.


Your Measured curves still show some pretty dramatic room response issues around 100Hz to 150Hz. But ARC seems to have that under control even in your 12KHz calculation.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Well it sure sounds good and if I close my eyes, I can't see the graphs but I can sure hear the sound









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14422797
> 
> 
> Looks good to me! You still have a few dB drop in your side surrounds at 12KHz but nothing to worry about in my opinion. I am surprised, though, that ARC didn't roll off the Target curve up there for your dipoles.
> 
> 
> I guess we still haven't figured out just when and why ARC rolls off the Target curve up there for some folks.
> 
> 
> Your Measured curves still show some pretty dramatic room response issues around 100Hz to 150Hz. But ARC seems to have that under control even in your 12KHz calculation.
> 
> --Bob



The dropoffs were greater with 5 kHz. They were raised with 12 kHz. May account for the better surround effects.

You have mentioned the use of ARC resources when raising freq. to 12 k. I thought the LFE sounded very good and probably same as my 5k results.

John


----------



## airboyd

Could someone confirm which additional settings are still active after the ARC? Like the TV crossover, THX Ultra 2 sub etc...


I calibrated to 75 db using my Radio Shack meter prior to running ARC. Should I have set up anything else separately audio-wise?


I had the bass earthquake and still have a bass issue with my Sunfire True Sub now. It has a rattle at around 35hz that did not exist before. I am trying to trouble shoot every possible aspect before sending it to Sunfire for analysis.


The Sunfire is supposed to go into soft clipping before any noise is heard, so I think something may have gone bad. It is 11 years old and had performed flawlessly until now. Has anyone else heard their Sunfire rattle or bottom out. It appears to be around 35 Hz.


The bass was much better after upgrading the ARC software, but I had to re-calibrate. I suggested to Nick that a separate Music and Movie mode might be nice in future upgrades so we can tweak one without having to re-do the other. I did a 9 position movie and a 5 position music. The music was too bass heavy and I had to re-do both to fix it. I also suggested a second music setting for use with SACD/DVD-A etc, so you'd have a Movie/Music/6ch settings to choose from.


----------



## drmabuse

Hi,

I apologize if this is a stupid question but I am a bit confused and would appreciate some clarification. I am comparing some graphs I ran/calculated at 5hz and I just took an identical set of measurements and ran targets/calculations at 12hz and to my eyes they look identical. Is there a step I am missing? I did auto detect and then increased the x-over boxes to 12000.

I have not loaded them in yet as I wanted to be sure I did not miss anything.

/\\/\\


----------



## drmabuse




airboyd;14423322 I suggested to Nick that a separate Music and Movie mode might be nice in future upgrades so we can tweak one without having to re-do the other. I did a 9 position movie and a 5 position music. The music was too bass heavy and I had to re-do both to fix it. I also suggested a second music setting for use with SACD/DVD-A etc said:


> Great suggestions!
> 
> /\\/\\


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd* /forum/post/14423322
> 
> 
> Could someone confirm which additional settings are still active after the ARC? Like the TV crossover, THX Ultra 2 sub etc...
> 
> 
> I calibrated to 75 db using my Radio Shack meter prior to running ARC. Should I have set up anything else separately audio-wise?
> 
> 
> I had the bass earthquake and still have a bass issue with my Sunfire True Sub now. It has a rattle at around 35hz that did not exist before. I am trying to trouble shoot every possible aspect before sending it to Sunfire for analysis.
> 
> 
> The Sunfire is supposed to go into soft clipping before any noise is heard, so I think something may have gone bad. It is 11 years old and had performed flawlessly until now. Has anyone else heard their Sunfire rattle or bottom out. It appears to be around 35 Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> The bass was much better after upgrading the ARC software, but I had to re-calibrate. I suggested to Nick that a separate Music and Movie mode might be nice in future upgrades so we can tweak one without having to re-do the other. I did a 9 position movie and a 5 position music. The music was too bass heavy and I had to re-do both to fix it. I also suggested a second music setting for use with SACD/DVD-A etc, so you'd have a Movie/Music/6ch settings to choose from.



You don't need any post processing like THX since ARC does all that and much more. Turn all sources to Room EQ=ON and just listen.

John


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14421460
> 
> 
> There were some reports a while back that people were having troubles playing some of the SACDs out there that have unusual speaker setups (e.g. 4.0) using an Oppo player and HDMI PCM audio.
> 
> 
> At the time, I believe it was thought this was an Oppo problem, but I'm not sure that proved to be true. Oppo was undoubtedly in touch with Anthem on this, and so you might want to send an email to Anthem tech support and see if they have any updates on this, and in particular whether they know it to be a player problem with your player.
> 
> 
> I presume you are already on the V1.33 Anthem firmware. If not they will likely suggest you try that as a first step.
> 
> 
> ETA: I don't think I own any 5.0 tracks that I can try this way.
> 
> --Bob



I have similar problems with the Pioneer DV-58AV which, apparently, uses some of the same chipset as the Oppo.


Kal


----------



## dwwhitley

How long is the USB microphone cable?


I will be using a desktop computer in another room and was wondering if the USB cable is too short to reach listening area, could I use an USB extension cable?


Is it necessary to be able to see the computer screen while doing ARC measurements?


I may have to buy a cheap laptop.


--Don


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dwwhitley* /forum/post/14423869
> 
> 
> How long is the USB microphone cable?
> 
> 
> I will be using a desktop computer in another room and was wondering if the USB cable is too short to reach listening area, could I use an USB extension cable?
> 
> 
> Is it necessary to be able to see the computer screen while doing ARC measurements?
> 
> 
> I may have to buy a cheap laptop.
> 
> 
> --Don



You don't have to see the computer screen during the measurements. It prompts and then you have to click OK to start each mic position, etc. So you've got time to move between.


But long USB cables are generally not a good idea.


The provided mic cable is about, oh, 10 feet long.


If it's too much trouble to move your main computer (and believe me, I understand that), then a cheap laptop may be the way to go. If you have an Intel-based Mac laptop, you can also run Windows on that via the BootCamp environment. That's what I'm doing (using a MacBook).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd* /forum/post/14423322
> 
> 
> I suggested to Nick that a separate Music and Movie mode might be nice in future upgrades so we can tweak one without having to re-do the other. I did a 9 position movie and a 5 position music. The music was too bass heavy and I had to re-do both to fix it. I also suggested a second music setting for use with SACD/DVD-A etc, so you'd have a Movie/Music/6ch settings to choose from.



I agree on being able to separate the Movie and Music Measurements and redo them separately. In fact I'd love to have a way to tell ARC to redo just one mic position. Sometimes I hear background noise that ARC doesn't complain about and I'd like to tell it to redo that mic position without having to start over from the beginning.


I'm not sure what the limiting factor would be in setting up more than just 2 ARC configurations. Obviously ARC is moving a significant amount of room correction data to the Anthem when you do the Upload so at some point I suppose they just wouldn't have enough memory to up the number of configurations. From a user interface point of view you would also need to manage the cross overs for them separately. It could probably be done if they have the spare memory in the Anthem to hold that.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/14423413
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I apologize if this is a stupid question but I am a bit confused and would appreciate some clarification. I am comparing some graphs I ran/calculated at 5hz and I just took an identical set of measurements and ran targets/calculations at 12hz and to my eyes they look identical. Is there a step I am missing? I did auto detect and then increased the x-over boxes to 12000.
> 
> I have not loaded them in yet as I wanted to be sure I did not miss anything.
> 
> /\\/\\




Anybody?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/14423413
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I apologize if this is a stupid question but I am a bit confused and would appreciate some clarification. I am comparing some graphs I ran/calculated at 5hz and I just took an identical set of measurements and ran targets/calculations at 12hz and to my eyes they look identical. Is there a step I am missing? I did auto detect and then increased the x-over boxes to 12000.
> 
> I have not loaded them in yet as I wanted to be sure I did not miss anything.
> 
> /\\/\\



The only thing I can think of is that you didn't actually make those Targets changes happen -- i.e., you Cancelled out of the Targets window.


I don't have it in front of me and can't recall whether the Targets window offers an Apply button when you make Targets changes, but if so you should click on that, and then click on OK to dismiss the Targets window. Then do a new Calculation.


After you do your new Calculations you can re-open the Targets window to confirm what Targets it actually used for those -- i.e., that your change is actually in there.


Keep in mind that your Calculated curves won't change until you do the new Calculation after changing Targets. And that the Targets changes don't actually take effect until you OK out of that Targets window. When the new Targets take affect, there will be a brief pre-processing phase, just as happens at the end of taking a set of Measurements. That's another way to know they are changing.


I don't recall how your charts looked, but on my charts it was readily obvious that the correction had moved outwards from 5KHz to 12KHz.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14424100
> 
> 
> The only thing I can think of is that you didn't actually make those Targets changes happen -- i.e., you Cancelled out of the Targets window.
> 
> 
> I don't have it in front of me and can't recall whether the Targets window offers an Apply button when you make Targets changes, but if so you should click on that, and then click on OK to dismiss the Targets window. Then do a new Calculation.
> 
> 
> After you do your new Calculations you can re-open the Targets window to confirm what Targets it actually used for those -- i.e., that your change is actually in there.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that your Calculated curves won't change until you do the new Calculation after changing Targets. And that the Targets changes don't actually take effect until you OK out of that Targets window. When the new Targets take affect, there will be a brief pre-processing phase, just as happens at the end of taking a set of Measurements. That's another way to know they are changing.
> 
> 
> I don't recall how your charts looked, but on my charts it was readily obvious that the correction had moved outwards from 5KHz to 12KHz.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the reponse Bob.


I had done all that you mention and oddly enough they look identical to the previous ones which makes no sense to me at all. Should the "forced" box be checked or unchecked?

When I open the targets box after the calculation process it does say 12000...

I guess I will do a load of them and see if I can hear any difference.


Much appreciated as always!


/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd* /forum/post/14423322
> 
> 
> Could someone confirm which additional settings are still active after the ARC? Like the TV crossover, THX Ultra 2 sub etc...
> 
> 
> I calibrated to 75 db using my Radio Shack meter prior to running ARC. Should I have set up anything else separately audio-wise?



Before doing ARC Measurements, set the Setup / Speaker Calibration / Noise Level value, and adjust the volume knob on your subwoofer. It sounds like you did that.


NOTE: To set Noise Level correctly you need to set the Left Front speaker's volume trim value to 0dB first. This is apparently a bug. You should also have the subwoofer volume trim at 0dB when adjusting its internal volume knob.


Before or after setting up ARC, be sure to enter correct values for your Setup / Listener Position (speaker distances) and for the Phase and Polarity of your subwoofer in both the Movie and Music configuration. ARC only listens to one speaker at a time so it is OK to adjust these settings after setting up ARC without having to do new measurements.


[EXCEPTION: If you have more than one subwoofer, you need to set up correct Polarity and Phase for all of them *BEFORE* doing ARC Measurements since ARC listens to your entire set of subwoofers at the same time.]


Room Resonance Filter, Center EQ, THX Ultra 2, and Boundary Gain Compensation settings will be ignored during ARC Measurements and for any source with Room EQ = ON during playback after setting up ARC.


The ARC Measurements will also ignore the cross over settings and speaker levels you currently have set. Only the Noise Level is used, and of course the volume knob setting on your subwoofer. The ARC Upload will load new cross over settings and speaker levels.


Be sure that Setup / Source Setup / Room EQ = ON is set for all your sources after you Upload ARC settings for the first time.


Do not fiddle with the crossover and speaker level settings ARC Uploads into the Setup menu for you as you will mess up what ARC has set up.


After doing an ARC Upload, it is wise to do a Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the crossover and speaker level settings changes ARC includes as part of the Upload. This makes sure you won't mess up those settings if you ever need to do a Reload from those memories.


If you have more than one subwoofer, you *STILL* should set your speaker configuration to "1 subwoofer" in the Setup menu when using ARC.


Read the new Section 3.15 in the Manual for other guidance on setting up and using ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/14424178
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reponse Bob.
> 
> 
> I had done all that you mention and oddly enough they look identical to the previous ones which makes no sense to me at all. Should the "forced" box be checked or unchecked?
> 
> When I open the targets box after the calculation process it does say 12000...
> 
> I guess I will do a load of them and see if I can hear any difference.
> 
> 
> Much appreciated as always!
> 
> 
> /\\/\\



The "forced" box should be checked by default. The Room Gain is basically just reported by ARC -- i.e., it is the "natural" Room Gain as determined by the Measurements. If you want to make ARC "force" the room to a different Room Gain -- one that is not the natural response of the room -- you have to change the numeric value and also check that box.


I suspect a different user interface might be less confusing here.


You'll have to post some before and after charts to see if we can spot anything wrong. Really, if you had any residuals between 5Khz and 12KHz they should be smaller when you do the 12KHz Calculation.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14424251
> 
> 
> The "forced" box should be checked by default. The Room Gain is basically just reported by ARC -- i.e., it is the "natural" Room Gain as determined by the Measurements. If you want to make ARC "force" the room to a different Room Gain -- one that is not the natural response of the room -- you have to change the numeric value and also check that box.
> 
> 
> I suspect a different user interface might be less confusing here.
> 
> 
> You'll have to post some before and after charts to see if we can spot anything wrong. Really, if you had any residuals between 5Khz and 12KHz they should be smaller when you do the 12KHz Calculation.
> 
> --Bob



Is it possible that they were so small they are insignificant?

I just tried the process again with another clean measurement file and have the same result despite the target box stating 12000...

/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/14424332
> 
> 
> Is it possible that they were so small they are insignificant?
> 
> I just tried the process again with another clean measurement file and have the same result despite the target box stating 12000...
> 
> /\\/\\



Post before and after and we'll see. I suppose you ARE sure your "before" charts really were done with 5KHz, right?

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14424410
> 
> 
> Post before and after and we'll see. I suppose you ARE sure your "before" charts really were done with 5KHz, right?
> 
> --Bob



For sure - have never changed the values before today.

/\\/\\


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14424410
> 
> 
> Post before and after and we'll see. I suppose you ARE sure your "before" charts really were done with 5KHz, right?
> 
> --Bob



Think I may have figured it out...

My copies of the measurement file were made after I did the target set. Each one of my files has the target saved previous...

Back to measurement...










/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/14424663
> 
> 
> Think I may have figured it out...
> 
> My copies of the measurement file were made after I did the target set. Each one of my files has the target saved previous...
> 
> Back to measurement...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /\\/\\



Shouldn't be necessary to re-Measure.


Just take any copy of that Measurement set and do an Auto Detect in Targets and it should reset things for you. I think that will also reset you to 5KHz but you can put that in manually if necessary.


Then accept those Targets changes and do a re-Calculation.


Voila! You'll have a 5KHz Calculation you can compare to your current 12KHz Calculation in the other file.


The 5KHz vs. 12KHz stuff doesn't change how the Measurements are taken -- just what's done with them afterwards.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I hope folks who are fiddling with this Max EQ Frequency Target thingy realize that this 12KHz stuff is kind of something that got pulled out of a hat. One person used that value, and then I tried it expecting bad results and found good results instead, and other folks have picked up on that value.


Your particular Measurements may not require you go up that high, or may work better if you go a little higher.


I know in my case, however, that cranking it all the way up to 20KHz produced more wobbles lower down in frequency, so I think that's too high for my stuff.


You should look at your Measurements and see if you can pick a natural point higher than 5KHz, but not too high, which looks good to try. That may be 12KHz or it may be some other frequency.


Or you my discover that in your case, raising it *AT ALL* above the default 5KHz produces results that don't sound as good *EVEN THOUGH* the Calculated curves look better. That could be the "high frequency directionality" issue making your Measurements misleading up there -- and thus making the Calculations incorrect. Trust your ears.

--Bob


----------



## RIppolito

I, too, experienced the case where I had my AVM 50 settings get set to factory defaults (speaker levels set to 0.0 dB, distances reset, crossovers changed to 80Hz, video settings all nominals, etc). I made another set of measurements, did the calculations, and uploaded the results, and when I didn't hear really good results, I checked, and saw the settings had been seriously altered.


I restored my video settings from my laptop, re-uploaded my ARC values, but it seems like the ARC isn't being recognized: I don't hear it when I toggle the EQ in the input settings. It is as though the ARC isn't there.


Does anyone have any recommendations?


Thanks in advance,


Ron


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14422507
> 
> 
> I am guessing that it is a TWC SA8300HDC DVR problem and not the D2. However, I have never been able to get the HDMI audio to work properly between the 8300 HDC and the D2.



I've been using an 8300 with the D2 for a while now over HDMI. Some pointers:
I lose audio on 480i/p channels when tuning from a HD channel. I can restore audio by switching the D2 to another source then back.
Set the 8300 to widescreen and stretch for 480 channels. I was told by my ISF calibrator the stretch mode gives the D2 the full 480 picture to work with.
Only enable 480i as an output format. This stops the 8300 from upconverting 480i channels to HD formats - best to let the D2 do this.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/14425377
> 
> 
> I, too, experienced the case where I had my AVM 50 settings get set to factory defaults (speaker levels set to 0.0 dB, distances reset, crossovers changed to 80Hz, video settings all nominals, etc). I made another set of measurements, did the calculations, and uploaded the results, and when I didn't hear really good results, I checked, and saw the settings had been seriously altered.
> 
> 
> I restored my video settings from my laptop, re-uploaded my ARC values, but it seems like the ARC isn't being recognized: I don't hear it when I toggle the EQ in the input settings. It is as though the ARC isn't there.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any recommendations?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Ron



Ron,

If you had a good set of User Settings in the Anthem Setup Menu, load those and your settings will return even after uploading ARC. I had the same problem and Bob recommended this.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/14425377
> 
> 
> I, too, experienced the case where I had my AVM 50 settings get set to factory defaults (speaker levels set to 0.0 dB, distances reset, crossovers changed to 80Hz, video settings all nominals, etc). I made another set of measurements, did the calculations, and uploaded the results, and when I didn't hear really good results, I checked, and saw the settings had been seriously altered.
> 
> 
> I restored my video settings from my laptop, re-uploaded my ARC values, but it seems like the ARC isn't being recognized: I don't hear it when I toggle the EQ in the input settings. It is as though the ARC isn't there.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any recommendations?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Ron



Restore your Setup menu settings from Saved User or Installer Settings.


I've not heard of a case where re-Uploading the ARC results didn't fix this. It sounds to me like your ARC results file is corrupted somehow.


Start from a fresh copy of your Measurements file, redo the Calculation and Upload it again.


ETA: Please do email Anthem technical support with details of what you did that resulted in your Setup settings reverting like this. Anthem needs to track down what is causing this.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

Bob:


There was a firmware upgrade made available by Oppo in July 2008 to address the issue of SACDs with 5.0 or less channels. On the Oppo thread, people verify it works, although I don't know if it has been tested specifically with the D2. I will be able to report back on this issue next week when my oppo arrives.


dave



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14421460
> 
> 
> There were some reports a while back that people were having troubles playing some of the SACDs out there that have unusual speaker setups (e.g. 4.0) using an Oppo player and HDMI PCM audio.
> 
> 
> At the time, I believe it was thought this was an Oppo problem, but I'm not sure that proved to be true. Oppo was undoubtedly in touch with Anthem on this, and so you might want to send an email to Anthem tech support and see if they have any updates on this, and in particular whether they know it to be a player problem with your player.
> 
> 
> I presume you are already on the V1.33 Anthem firmware. If not they will likely suggest you try that as a first step.
> 
> 
> ETA: I don't think I own any 5.0 tracks that I can try this way.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## The Bogg

Does anyone know what happens to the sub target response if you change the value for room gain? My room gain setting is just under 4. I'm just wondering if adjusting this value will adjust the amount of bass, and if so how (i.e. does making the number smaller mean more bass or vice versa)?


----------



## ASW

The new issue of Home Theater magazine has a very positive review of the D2 w/ARC (calling it the best pre/pro out there in every important measure).


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14421312
> 
> 
> I have an D1-HD and experienced probably about 1/2 second or so of hissing from the speakers last night when I switched channels last night on my DVR when the channel I was watching had froze (a TWC problem, not D2) and I switched to a different channel on my DVR.
> 
> 
> It was not something that was loud enough to harm speakers, but it made me jump a little as it was unexpected.
> 
> 
> Just an FYI.
> 
> 
> Mike



I found out that I can reproduce it pretty easily with only the TWC 8300HDC box. All I have to do is pause and hit play or go from recorded to live on the same show. I think the "mute" on the D2 when changing sources is just not quite long enough for the sluggish operation of the 8300. I have not tried to change the mute setting on the D2 - that might take care of the issue.


On the other hand, I think the issue is with the 8300 and its normally sluggish operation with the TWC Navigator software not the D2.


Mike


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14424733
> 
> 
> I hope folks who are fiddling with this Max EQ Frequency Target thingy realize that this 12KHz stuff is kind of something that got pulled out of a hat. One person used that value, and then I tried it expecting bad results and found good results instead, and other folks have picked up on that value.
> 
> 
> Your particular Measurements may not require you go up that high, or may work better if you go a little higher.
> 
> 
> I know in my case, however, that cranking it all the way up to 20KHz produced more wobbles lower down in frequency, so I think that's too high for my stuff.
> 
> 
> You should look at your Measurements and see if you can pick a natural point higher than 5KHz, but not too high, which looks good to try. That may be 12KHz or it may be some other frequency.
> 
> 
> Or you my discover that in your case, raising it *AT ALL* above the default 5KHz produces results that don't sound as good *EVEN THOUGH* the Calculated curves look better. That could be the "high frequency directionality" issue making your Measurements misleading up there -- and thus making the Calculations incorrect. Trust your ears.
> 
> --Bob



I agree with this 100%. When you are setting the target frequency you are setting it accross all speakers and therefore the room and speaker limitations for all speakers.


I think you need to be very careful doing this and not potentially overdrive your speakers (including the surrounds which may be designed to fall off at higher frequencies) and making the sound more "edgy". If the difference at the higher frequencies between the target curve and response curve is "significant" I would be carefull trying to use ARC to fill it in. You may get more involvement of the surrounds, but a more tiring overall sound. This may also be true for the fronts and centers, but I have found that they follow the targets closer to a higher frequency anyway so the correction is less.


Bottom line I don't think there is a one set of parameters fits all, each person needs to carefully listen to those "improvements" by increasing the targets and make sure that they are not listening to the curves and what they think should sound better, rather than the real sound improvement that ARC can offer.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14427224
> 
> 
> There was a firmware upgrade made available by Oppo in July 2008 to address the issue of SACDs with 5.0 or less channels. On the Oppo thread, people verify it works, although I don't know if it has been tested specifically with the D2. I will be able to report back on this issue next week when my oppo arrives.



I am using the Oppo 983 with the D2 and it works just fine. In fact, I used it to determine the channel problem with the Pioneer DV-58 was in the Pioneer.


----------



## barhoram

Kal,


Does the 983 offer 480i over HDMI to the D2? If not, what are you setting the output at for SD-DVD?


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14428736
> 
> 
> Kal,
> 
> 
> Does the 983 offer 480i over HDMI to the D2? If not, what are you setting the output at for SD-DVD?



Cannot recall offhand as I am not much of a videophile. I can check this weekend but the 983 manual is downloadable from the the Oppo US website.


----------



## AV-NUT-99

I don't know how the rest of you feel and maybe I am trying to be too analytical, but I am interested in the results I see in posters measured room responses and I think it would be interesting to know a little more info about the room in use (fully enclosed or open on side or rear, main dimensions and ceiling height the type of speakers being used,etc.) Center speaker response always seems to be really bumpy in the mid range and I wonder if it is more due to the speaker, or its placement in the room, i.e. up against front wall, on top of a low cabinet under a flat screen, etc. I can't resist the urge to try and use the reported raw data to make any possible improvements to speaker placement and sub placement to squeeze out every last bit of performance possible in a given setup.


Or, maybe ARC is so good at doing what it needs to do that we don't have to worry about this kind of stuff any more. When you get right down to it, you are pretty much stuck with what you have from a room layout standpoint, and any small changes that you may be able to make, might not make much of a difference.


I think I can safely assume that since we all have these wonderful Anthem processors, the rest of our systems are most likely using speaker systems of simlar quality but I, at least, would be interested in knowing a little more detail.


Thoughts?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14428277
> 
> 
> I agree with this 100%. When you are setting the target frequency you are setting it accross all speakers and therefore the room and speaker limitations for all speakers.
> 
> 
> I think you need to be very careful doing this and not potentially overdrive your speakers (including the surrounds which may be designed to fall off at higher frequencies) and making the sound more "edgy". If the difference at the higher frequencies between the target curve and response curve is "significant" I would be carefull trying to use ARC to fill it in. You may get more involvement of the surrounds, but a more tiring overall sound. This may also be true for the fronts and centers, but I have found that they follow the targets closer to a higher frequency anyway so the correction is less.
> 
> 
> Bottom line I don't think there is a one set of parameters fits all, each person needs to carefully listen to those "improvements" by increasing the targets and make sure that they are not listening to the curves and what they think should sound better, rather than the real sound improvement that ARC can offer.



I also concur. I have tried the 12 kHz and then tried other freq. ie. 8,10,20 and the 12 graphs looked the best and compared to 5 kHz, sounds the best. Still listening and if I find something I will post it.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV-NUT-99* /forum/post/14428886
> 
> 
> I don't know how the rest of you feel and maybe I am trying to be too analytical, but I am interested in the results I see in posters measured room responses and I think it would be interesting to know a little more info about the room in use (fully enclosed or open on side or rear, main dimensions and ceiling height the type of speakers being used,etc.) Center speaker response always seems to be really bumpy in the mid range and I wonder if it is more due to the speaker, or its placement in the room, i.e. up against front wall, on top of a low cabinet under a flat screen, etc. I can't resist the urge to try and use the reported raw data to make any possible improvements to speaker placement and sub placement to squeeze out every last bit of performance possible in a given setup.
> 
> 
> Or, maybe ARC is so good at doing what it needs to do that we don't have to worry about this kind of stuff any more. When you get right down to it, you are pretty much stuck with what you have from a room layout standpoint, and any small changes that you may be able to make, might not make much of a difference.
> 
> 
> I think I can safely assume that since we all have these wonderful Anthem processors, the rest of our systems are most likely using speaker systems of simlar quality but I, at least, would be interested in knowing a little more detail.
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



John,

You can check my results on this page or the previoius one. My room dimensions are as follows:

14 ft.W x 25.5L x7.3 ft H. Room is completely closed off. Walls and ceiling have sound insulation and drywall is hooked to channels on walls. Flexes a little. Three lazyboys(not named after me







) and one sofa behind and elelvated 6.5 in. Floor is Drycore with underpad and carpet. Hope this helps.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14428227
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what happens to the sub target response if you change the value for room gain? My room gain setting is just under 4. I'm just wondering if adjusting this value will adjust the amount of bass, and if so how (i.e. does making the number smaller mean more bass or vice versa)?



Room Gain is the "natural", non-flat response of a room which listeners perceive as "being in a listening room". Visually, you will see it on the charts as the slight hump in the Target curve in the vicinity of the crossovers.


The research that went into the design of ARC indicated that it was important not to eliminate the inherent, natural Room Gain of the room in the course of removing undesirable peaks and nulls caused by frequency dependent "room modes".


So ARC tries to distinguish the natural Room Gain of the room from those room modes, and acts to preserve the Room Gain while eliminating the room modes.


The Targets window reports the Room Gain that ARC has detected for your specific listening room. It is possible to make ARC do a Calculation which will "force" a different Room Gain on the room -- i.e., partially remove, enhance, or reposition the hump that ARC has detected as the "natural" response of the room. To do that you have to change the numeric value of the Room Gain Target (a smaller number means a smaller hump) and also leave the "force" check box checked.


Room Gain values between 3.5 and 4 are most commonly reported here. I'm not sure what the units are for that -- possibly dB of "hump" but maybe not.


To the best of my knowledge, the only reports we've had here of people seeing some advantage in fiddling with the Room Gain have been with the very earliest versions of ARC that still had some bugs in them regarding how ARC set up bass for certain, more demanding, room and speaker setups.


With the current versions of ARC (V1.2.2 and above), I don't believe we've had a single report of people getting better results after fiddling with that value.


Personally, I think Anthem left that value adjustable in the Targets window so that reviewers could force Room Gain to zero to see how bad things would sound if ARC incorrectly eliminated Room Gain -- throwing the baby out with the bath water -- as might be done by simpler room EQ solutions. I.e., it's not really something a normal ARC user would want to fiddle with.


----------------------------------


Room Gain doesn't go down into the deep bass, but it starts low enough in frequency that the subwoofer's response near the crossover is, indeed, modified by it. Essentially you end up with a little more bass (a few dB) near the crossover.


Contrast with a typical, manual setup where the user might, incorrectly, try to force things to "completely flat" all the way up to and through the crossover.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14429013
> 
> 
> Room Gain is the "natural", non-flat response of a room which listeners perceive as "being in a listening room". Visually, you will see it on the charts as the slight hump in the Target curve in the vicinity of the crossovers.



And which the mastering studio assumed was in the listening room.



> Quote:
> With the current versions of ARC (V1.2.2 and above), I don't believe we've had a single report of people getting better results after fiddling with that value.
> 
> 
> Personally, I think Anthem left that value adjustable in the Targets window so that reviewers could force Room Gain to zero to see how bad things would sound if ARC incorrectly eliminated Room Gain -- throwing the baby out with the bath water -- as might be done by simpler room EQ solutions. I.e., it's not really something a normal ARC user would want to fiddle with.



At first, I resisted room gain (non-flat response) on principle but, after fiddling with it over a few months, I have come to accept it as essential. However, the optimum amount is, I believe, somewhat negotiable. When I compared the recommended room gain with lesser amounts, I definitely preferred less for music. Of course, completely eliminating it was going too far. So, I kept a small amount on the Music setup and the recommended amount on the Movie setup.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14429076
> 
> 
> At first, I resisted room gain (non-flat response) on principle but, after fiddling with it over a few months, I have come to accept it as essential. However, the optimum amount is, I believe, somewhat negotiable. When I compared the recommended room gain with lesser amounts, I definitely preferred less for music. Of course, completely eliminating it was going too far. So, I kept a small amount on the Music setup and the recommended amount on the Movie setup.



What were your before and after Room Gain values for Movie and Music?


By the way, I've noticed that ARC assigns a slightly lower value for my Music configuration. I've been assuming that was just a variation in the calculation due to eliminating the Center speaker from the mix for Music.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14429088
> 
> 
> What were your before and after Room Gain values for Movie and Music?
> 
> 
> By the way, I've noticed that ARC assigns a slightly lower value for my Music configuration. I've been assuming that was just a variation in the calculation due to eliminating the Center speaker from the mix for Music.
> 
> --Bob



Will have to look that up later when I get home. It is all on the laptop.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The ARC V1.2.6 "test" version has apparently been withdrawn.


The version of ARC in the "test" folder on the password protect download page has been backed up to V1.2.5 today.


However the updated manuals (with dates of 8/8) are still in there and the change notes still mention V1.2.6.


---------------------------------------------------


For any newbies, you should be using firmware version V1.33, and if you are an ARC customer you should be using ARC V1.2.5, both of which are available from the public download pages for the D2 and for the AVM40 and AVM50. Of course the ARC stuff also requires the 2 licensing and calibration files that came with your original ARC install CD.

--Bob


----------



## seismo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14429013
> 
> 
> Room Gain values between 3.5 and 4 are most commonly reported here. I'm not sure what the units are for that -- possibly dB of "hump" but maybe not.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Nick once told me that the room gain range was 0 to 6 db.

By the way, one way to evaluate the effect of room gains is to make a measurement and use the same configuration for both cinema and music. Once the file is saved, you can then get the target window on the same file and modify the music room gain only for example (while making sure the force box is checked) and do the calculation, upload to the D2 again. It is then just a matter of switching between music and cinema (D2 setup menu) to ear whatever differences you get.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seismo* /forum/post/14430128
> 
> 
> Nick once told me that the room gain range was 0 to 6 db.
> 
> By the way, one way to evaluate the effect of room gains is to make a measurement and use the same configuration for both cinema and music. Once the file is saved, you can then get the target window on the same file and modify the music room gain only for example (while the force box is ckecked) and do the calculation, upload to the D2 again. It is then just a matter of switching between music and cinema (D2 setup menu) to ear whatever differences you get.



If you have an unused source within your setup menu you can set them up exactly alike except use the movie setup for one and the music setup for the other one. Or you could use DVD-1 and DVD-2, etc. You can then avoid having to go back into the setup menu each time to make changes, you can just toggle the inputs on the remote and compare.


I do not have my ARC kit yet, but I use a similar process for three "different" CD inputs. I have the CD source setup as analog direct and I use the VCR source setup as analogdsp (my CD player has two analog outputs), and I use the 2CH selection as CD digital. One source unit, three ways of listening and processing...


Mike


----------



## The Bogg

Thanks Bob and Kal.

I did separate measurements for movies and music (using only the front speakers) and the room gain number was slightly lower with music.

I'm quite impressed with the ARC, it has improved movies immensely. As far as music goes, It's good but I'm still playing around and think I'll try a lower setting such as 1k. ARC does make corrections between 2 and 5k but I think it sounds a bit better without the correction in this frequency range.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14429013
> 
> 
> Room Gain is the "natural", non-flat response of a room which listeners perceive as "being in a listening room". Visually, you will see it on the charts as the slight hump in the Target curve in the vicinity of the crossovers.
> 
> 
> The research that went into the design of ARC indicated that it was important not to eliminate the inherent, natural Room Gain of the room in the course of removing undesirable peaks and nulls caused by frequency dependent "room modes".
> 
> 
> So ARC tries to distinguish the natural Room Gain of the room from those room modes, and acts to preserve the Room Gain while eliminating the room modes.
> 
> 
> The Targets window reports the Room Gain that ARC has detected for your specific listening room. It is possible to make ARC do a Calculation which will "force" a different Room Gain on the room -- i.e., partially remove, enhance, or reposition the hump that ARC has detected as the "natural" response of the room. To do that you have to change the numeric value of the Room Gain Target (a smaller number means a smaller hump) and also leave the "force" check box checked.
> 
> 
> Room Gain values between 3.5 and 4 are most commonly reported here. I'm not sure what the units are for that -- possibly dB of "hump" but maybe not.
> 
> 
> To the best of my knowledge, the only reports we've had here of people seeing some advantage in fiddling with the Room Gain have been with the very earliest versions of ARC that still had some bugs in them regarding how ARC set up bass for certain, more demanding, room and speaker setups.
> 
> 
> With the current versions of ARC (V1.2.2 and above), I don't believe we've had a single report of people getting better results after fiddling with that value.
> 
> 
> Personally, I think Anthem left that value adjustable in the Targets window so that reviewers could force Room Gain to zero to see how bad things would sound if ARC incorrectly eliminated Room Gain -- throwing the baby out with the bath water -- as might be done by simpler room EQ solutions. I.e., it's not really something a normal ARC user would want to fiddle with.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> Room Gain doesn't go down into the deep bass, but it starts low enough in frequency that the subwoofer's response near the crossover is, indeed, modified by it. Essentially you end up with a little more bass (a few dB) near the crossover.
> 
> 
> Contrast with a typical, manual setup where the user might, incorrectly, try to force things to "completely flat" all the way up to and through the crossover.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14430518
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob and Kal.
> 
> I did separate measurements for movies and music (using only the front speakers) and the room gain number was slightly lower with music.
> 
> I'm quite impressed with the ARC, it has improved movies immensely. As far as music goes, It's good but I'm still playing around and think I'll try a lower setting such as 1k. ARC does make corrections between 2 and 5k but I think it sounds a bit better without the correction in this frequency range.



Please do report on your results of reducing the Max EQ Frequency Target below 5KHz. I don't think we've had any reports yet of folks fiddling with it in that direction.


------------------------------------------


Nick tells me that ARC doesn't do anything different under the hood for Movie vs. Music. Not during Measurement, not during Calculation, and not during processing when you are playing stuff. I.e., the only changes that are supposed to be there between Movie and Music are the ones you make happen yourself -- such as by changing the speakers in the mix, or differences (perhaps subtle) in mic placement during Measurement.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14424733
> 
> 
> I hope folks who are fiddling with this Max EQ Frequency Target thingy realize that this 12KHz stuff is kind of something that got pulled out of a hat. One person used that value, and then I tried it expecting bad results and found good results instead, and other folks have picked up on that value.
> 
> 
> Your particular Measurements may not require you go up that high, or may work better if you go a little higher.
> 
> 
> I know in my case, however, that cranking it all the way up to 20KHz produced more wobbles lower down in frequency, so I think that's too high for my stuff.
> 
> 
> You should look at your Measurements and see if you can pick a natural point higher than 5KHz, but not too high, which looks good to try. That may be 12KHz or it may be some other frequency.
> 
> 
> Or you my discover that in your case, raising it *AT ALL* above the default 5KHz produces results that don't sound as good *EVEN THOUGH* the Calculated curves look better. That could be the "high frequency directionality" issue making your Measurements misleading up there -- and thus making the Calculations incorrect. Trust your ears.
> 
> --Bob



Agreed here as well - tried the 12hz but find it to be a bit too "bright" and the bass feels a bit anemic.

Going to experiment with something inbetween.

/\\/\\


----------



## diamar

I wondered if there's a good recap (I can't find it, but with the data loss who knows) of the "Earthquake Bass" problem with ARC.


I'm experiencing that earthquake problem with my D2, but there are a few odd factors I would point out in my situation (some temporary). Maybe we can find some commonality to better articulate the issue for Anthem.

I have a pretty small subwoofer for the size of the (very open) room
I live on the 18th floor in an urban high-rise, and there's always a fair mount of low-frequency noise coming from the street -- even with the windows closed -- not to mention fire trucks, screeching brakes, etc. This makes measurement problematic on a good day, though I'm going to try doing this at midnight to see if it works better.
There is construction on the windows going out to my deck (and they're at about a 45-degree angle just behind the viewer's left side) which exacerbates my inherent noise problem. First, the windows and doors there are temporarily replaced with plywood and styrofoam now, which no doubt affects acoustics. Second, and more significant I think, this lets in even MORE street noise then I'd have with the double-pane windows that will eventually be back there.
I get lots of noise messages when measuring the subwoofer, typically needing to try 4-5 times to get a clean reading for each mic position.
I don't have access to my charts right now, but they look remarkably like another set I saw where the sub didn't even look like a subwoofer (rapidly falling off below 30Hz).
I have the same problem with 1.2.5 and 1.2.6. It's impossible to listen without turning the subwoofer's volume way down below where it was when I measured.


I haven't sent my settings file to Nick yet because I think the 60db or so of ambient noise when the system is off is a likely culprit, and it will improve dramatically in a month or so when the new windows are in. If that doesn't work, I could also opt for a beefier subwoofer.


But are there others still having the earthquake problem? Any commonalities with my situation?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The "earthquake" problem was a bug that is fixed in V1.2.5.


You should not be using V1.2.6, that "test" version has problems.


I think it is quite likely that your high degree of ambient noise in the low bass (street noise) is what's messing things up for you here. (And trying V1.2.6 probably just made things worse.)


Have you tried setting the Setup / Speaker Calibration / Noise Level and also the volume knob on your subwoofer properly? You may need to target a higher SPL for those for the moment to help get cleaner Measurements -- perhaps 80dB instead of 75dB.


Again the process for this is:


* Use your Radio Shack SPL meter, set to "slow" response, and "C" weighting, pointing straight up at the central mic position you will be using for ARC mic position #1.


* Go to Setup / Speaker Calibration -- the test mode will be OFF at this point -- and set the volume trim values for the left front speaker and for the subwoofer to 0dB.


* Go to the first line of that menu and set the test mode to Manual.


* Scroll down one line to the Noise Level line and adjust its value until you get an SPL reading around whatever you want to target -- normally 75dB but in your case perhaps higher (80dB?). ARC will use this Noise Level value to set the volume of its Measurement sweep tones. NOTE: Due to an apparent bug, you must set the Left Front line to 0dB before adjusting the Noise Level line.


* Now scroll down to the subwoofer line which you also set to 0dB above.


* Using *ONLY* the volume knob in your subwoofer, adjust the subwoofer until you also get roughly the same SPL reading you targeted above for Noise Level. You do not need to be precise in these SPL settings -- a ballpark close result is fine.


* You are now ready to try ARC Measurements again. You don't need to do anything else in the Speaker Calibration menu. ARC will ignore the speaker volume values in there now (except for Noise Level) and replace them with the ones it calculates.


------------------------------------------------------


After you do your new ARC Measurements, Calculation, and Upload, double check that the values ARC has Uploaded into Setup / Speaker Configuration (the crossovers), and Setup / Speaker Calibration all make sense. If something is screwy here you may have a bad serial connection and thus your Upload isn't working right.


You can double check the Speaker Calibration settings ARC Uploads by setting the test mode to Manual and scrolling down to each speaker line in turn. They should all produce the same SPL reading, and that reading should be pretty close to what you targetted when you set Noise Level above.


You can double check the crossover values by comparing them to what ARC displays in Advanced mode when you Open your ARC results file and then view the Targets window.


When you are happy your Setup menu stuff is correct after the Upload, be sure to do a Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture those values so that you don't accidentally mess them up later by doing a Reload.

--Bob


----------



## diamar

Thanks Bob, I'll try to re-measure tonight with 1.2.5 and 80db (I had done it at 75 before). Already used your handy guide to setup, but perhaps reverting to 1.2.5 and using 80db will help.


--dave


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14429088
> 
> 
> What were your before and after Room Gain values for Movie and Music?
> 
> 
> By the way, I've noticed that ARC assigns a slightly lower value for my Music configuration. I've been assuming that was just a variation in the calculation due to eliminating the Center speaker from the mix for Music.
> 
> --Bob



Well, since I use the same speaker configuration for movies and music, the measurements and ARC's recommendations for both were the same. Room gain was set at 3.95dB and I kept that for Movies but I am happier with 1 to 1.5dB for Music.


----------



## jayray

Got this from Nick today re: 1.2.6


"Thanks, working on a new system for that. It'll probably ask the user whether or not the sub is really close to the listening area, in which case it'll restrict the xover frequency range.


Nothing it can do about ported subs with too much chuffing noise, however."


Best Regards,

Nick


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14431920
> 
> 
> Got this from Nick today re: 1.2.6
> 
> 
> "Thanks, working on a new system for that. It'll probably ask the user whether or not the sub is really close to the listening area, in which case it'll restrict the xover frequency range.
> 
> 
> Nothing it can do about ported subs with too much chuffing noise, however."
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Nick



hmmm... Did Nick say what is considered really close? Also, I wonder why the user will be prompted with such a question since the listening position masurements have been entered. I would think the D2 would just use that.


----------



## jayray

This is what I got in the email. Don't know what close is. Mine is 15 ft. away, and I know that isn't close









John


----------



## TREVLAN

I got my servo 15. woohoo.

Just about to set everything up again and do a reARC.


I really am having a concer with placment of this sub. Not much bigger then my old ps1200 but I'm just trying to find the best location in my odd open room.


Few questions to you good folks here.

1. Should I place the sub , behind my couch with the woofer firing into the back of the couch or into the back of the room. [note* it's another 10-15 feet to the back wall]

2. place it in the front of the room in the middle of my front left and center. note* this will literally be next to them, maybe 1/2 an inch or less from each one so FL- 1/2INCH - SUB-1/2INCH - CENTER.

3. place it in the middle of the room about 4-5 feet away from me on the right side and about 3 feet from the front. [*note this will also be very close to the front right speaker and just under/around my 1st reflection wall treatment.


[help please







]


And also if anyone has or knows of this sub, whats the best set up for the control +6db part , mostly watch movies and some SACD's in 5.1


As always thanks in advanced.


Once I figure all this out, I will reARC my system and see if I get better results then the ps1200....lol


EDIT: I know what close is..lol mine is 2-4ft away from me. so I wonder if I should try the 1.26??


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14432649
> 
> 
> I got my servo 15. woohoo.
> 
> Just about to set everything up again and do a reARC.
> 
> 
> I really am having a concer with placment of this sub. Not much bigger then my old ps1200 but I'm just trying to find the best location in my odd open room.
> 
> 
> Few questions to you good folks here.
> 
> 1. Should I place the sub , behind my couch with the woofer firing into the back of the couch or into the back of the room. [note* it's another 10-15 feet to the back wall]
> 
> 2. place it in the front of the room in the middle of my front left and center. note* this will literally be next to them, maybe 1/2 an inch or less from each one so FL- 1/2INCH - SUB-1/2INCH - CENTER.
> 
> 3. place it in the middle of the room about 4-5 feet away from me on the right side and about 3 feet from the front. [*note this will also be very close to the front right speaker and just under/around my 1st reflection wall treatment.
> 
> 
> [help please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]



I like your option #2 the best, but I would try both of your placement options #2 and #3, and see which one sounds the best to you. Or ideally you would run ARC twice, once with the sub in each location, and see which location measures and especially corrects the best, ie closest to the target curve. Your placement option #3 might be OK for movies, but I don't think you would like it for music.


----------



## jayray

My servo 15 is in the front right corner right beside the front right Studio 100.

This has worked very well for me but my room is quite diff. than yours. Mlbrand's idea sounds good to me.

John


----------



## TREVLAN

new sub new results, this is option 3. Looks like I have a sub now









but the other results are worse then I had before.

The good news is the levels are 1-2db up or down and the sub is minus 2 not 8 like before.

I will save the settings and do a reARC with option 2 tomorrow and see which sounds best and looks best. So far though no real listening as its late and baby is in bed.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14422227
> 
> 
> Just to get the ball rolling again, here are the charts for my current set of ARC V1.2.5 results -- Calculated at 12KHz. The previous post of these was one of the posts lost due to the AVS database failure:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Why does ARC produce targets that start to roll off at 10k in some cases and stay flat up to 20 in others? Also, where they remain flat, why does ARC roll off the calculated response curve?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14433379
> 
> 
> new sub new results, this is option 3. Looks like I have a sub now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but the other results are worse then I had before.
> 
> The good news is the levels are 1-2db up or down and the sub is minus 2 not 8 like before.
> 
> I will save the settings and do a reARC with option 2 tomorrow and see which sounds best and looks best. So far though no real listening as its late and baby is in bed.



Sub looks very good. Will be interesting to see option 2, tomorrow. Let us know how the new servo works.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14428826
> 
> 
> Cannot recall offhand as I am not much of a videophile. I can check this weekend but the 983 manual is downloadable from the the Oppo US website.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14428736
> 
> 
> Kal,
> 
> 
> Does the 983 offer 480i over HDMI to the D2? If not, what are you setting the output at for SD-DVD?





Due to design limitations because they send SACD over HDMI the Oppo 983 does not send 480i over HDMI.

I have compared component 480i and HDMI 1080i and 1080p from the 983 to the D2 and they all look the same.


Stew


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14431768
> 
> 
> Well, since I use the same speaker configuration for movies and music, the measurements and ARC's recommendations for both were the same. Room gain was set at 3.95dB and I kept that for Movies but I am happier with 1 to 1.5dB for Music.



Does it look to you like the Room Gain setting is, in fact, proportional to the "hump" in the Target curve? I.e., that your Music setting is yielding 1/3 to 1/4 of the "hump" of the Movie setting?


In your listening tests, are you noticing any differences that seem to be happening in frequencies away from the "hump" itself?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14432363
> 
> 
> This is what I got in the email. Don't know what close is. Mine is 15 ft. away, and I know that isn't close
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Based on the notes for the V1.2.6 test version (now withdrawn) "close" appears to mean the subwoofer is placed significantly closer to the listening position than the Center speaker distance.


Nevertheless, if selecting a user setting for that produces ARC results similar to what V1.2.6 was doing for all of us, I can't really see that working very well for people. I.e., it won't sound as good as coming up with a better positioning for the subwoofer to begin with.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14436220
> 
> 
> Does it look to you like the Room Gain setting is, in fact, proportional to the "hump" in the Target curve? I.e., that your Music setting is yielding 1/3 to 1/4 of the "hump" of the Movie setting?



Yes, it seems proportional although I cannot quantitatively evaluate that, given the graphics available.



> Quote:
> In your listening tests, are you noticing any differences that seem to be happening in frequencies away from the "hump" itself?



Nope. In fact, the difference is very subtle. It lends a little warmth/weight to the sound but, imho, it also lends a bit of unnatural ripeness to acoustical instruments. Using solo guitar as a test, the bigger bump makes all acoustic guitars indiscriminantly bigger and richer. Undoubtedly, I could live with Movies and Music on either setting but we are picky connoisseurs here, ain't we?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14433379
> 
> 
> new sub new results, this is option 3. Looks like I have a sub now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but the other results are worse then I had before.
> 
> The good news is the levels are 1-2db up or down and the sub is minus 2 not 8 like before.
> 
> I will save the settings and do a reARC with option 2 tomorrow and see which sounds best and looks best. So far though no real listening as its late and baby is in bed.



These results look fine and should sound quite good! I don't see any point in fiddling with the Max EQ Frequency or anything else.


Do remember to set up the Phase and Polarity for your new sub -- it may be different from what worked best for your old sub. There's no need to re-Measure ARC if you make any Phase or Polarity changes.


However, plan on re-Measuring in a few weeks to capture any changes that might occur due to break in of your new sub.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14433415
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Why does ARC produce targets that start to roll off at 10k in some cases and stay flat up to 20 in others? Also, where they remain flat, why does ARC roll off the calculated response curve?



We still don't have a good answer for why the Target curves vary up there. Need to get more details from Nick (when he gets back from vacation).


The Calculated curves up there track the Measured curves because, by default, the Max EQ Frequency Target is set to 5KHz -- i.e., ARC doesn't try to adjust things above 5KHz.

--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Any D2 owners using it with a Sony VPL-VW60 (Black Pearl SXRD) projector?


If so, what colorspace are you using? I just got one set up, and the blacks are very bad on it. Best case, there is a haze that seems to move over the black parts, worst case, im seeing big moving blue/purple blocks in the black. It seems worse on SD-DVD and Satellite HD. Blu Ray is a bit better. I'm using pioneer 59AVI SD-DVD, Pioneer Elite BDP94 Blu-Ray via HDMI and DirectTV HD-DVR over componenet. One post in the VW60 calibration thread pointed towards using the wrong color space. I'm trying to find out if its an issue like this, or a problem with the projector itself. Currently D2 is set to HDTV 4:4:4 with a 1080p/60 signal. Thoughts??


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14436240
> 
> 
> Based on the notes for the V1.2.6 test version (now withdrawn) "close" appears to mean the subwoofer is placed significantly closer to the listening position than the Center speaker distance.



Do you think that includes the distance due to processing delays?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14437654
> 
> 
> Do you think that includes the distance due to processing delays?



I don't know. I take it the issue is that they are generally running a higher crossover for the center speaker (not unusual given typical center speaker performance), and that, along with the high crossover for the sub (typically applied in ARC V1.2.5), means that some center channel content with bass undertones -- largely dialog -- is going to the sub. The volume for that will be low (since there's not that much bass in it) but if you are sitting close enough to the sub you might hear it as distracting from the stuff still coming out of the center speaker.


So the issue is not audio timing so much as "near field" sensitivity to this minor amount of center channel audio coming from the subwoofer sitting so close to you.


But the solution to that which they tried in V1.2.6 seems odd. Lowering the sub crossover down as far as 45Hz is likely to introduce other problems, such as loss of LFE. And I believe they may have countered that either by arbitrarily boosting LFE a bit or doing the equivalent of the "Bypass LFE crossover" route -- which can be a problem if your sub's natural response really needs that crossover to keep LFE from being too prominent. The result -- guessing here -- is that LFE was out of balance with other bass and low mid-range.


I think they need to give this one some more consideration.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson

Well, unless there's a trick up their sleeve, I can't see how ARC could distinguish physical distance from time delay, so the direct answer is really moot. In my case, the sub is my end-table and serves to hold the cognac and cigars, so it is within arm's length (if I lean over a bit) while the center is about 10feet in front of me. ARC says the sub is 7 feet away. All recent versions of ARC have put the center channel crossover at 45Hz (Audyssey puts it at 60Hz) and integration/localization are not problems at all. FWIW.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14437618
> 
> 
> Any D2 owners using it with a Sony VPL-VW60 (Black Pearl SXRD) projector?
> 
> 
> If so, what colorspace are you using? I just got one set up, and the blacks are very bad on it. Best case, there is a haze that seems to move over the black parts, worst case, im seeing big moving blue/purple blocks in the black. It seems worse on SD-DVD and Satellite HD. Blu Ray is a bit better. I'm using pioneer 59AVI SD-DVD, Pioneer Elite BDP94 Blu-Ray via HDMI and DirectTV HD-DVR over componenet. One post in the VW60 calibration thread pointed towards using the wrong color space. I'm trying to find out if its an issue like this, or a problem with the projector itself. Currently D2 is set to HDTV 4:4:4 with a 1080p/60 signal. Thoughts??



We have lots of Pearl users posting here, so I'm sure someone will chime in, but I don't recall any posts of unusual settings needed to make the Peal work well with the D2.


So go back to basics. Remember that you have multiple Video Configurations in the D2, so make sure you have each Setup / Source Setup set to use the Video Configuration you think you are using. It is also possible to change the currently selected Video Configuration from the remote, so double-check that you aren't doing that by mistake -- perhaps via a programmable remote.


The symptom you describe sounds like your black levels are way too high -- i.e, that you are seeing the Blacker than Black content in the source video. A common reason for that is indeed that you've got a Data Format mismatch -- for example that you have the display set to expect Extended RGB when you are sending it Studio RGB. But you can get the same result by any bad setting that has the effect of cranking black levels (Brightness control) up too high.


Remember that the D2 also has picture controls on the input side. Look in the Video Source Adjust menu for each Source (press and hold the "7" key while viewing that source).


For more hints on the basics of getting video set up, check out the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post in the collection of post links found in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## TiVolution




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14437618
> 
> 
> Any D2 owners using it with a Sony VPL-VW60 (Black Pearl SXRD) projector?
> 
> 
> If so, what colorspace are you using? I just got one set up, and the blacks are very bad on it. Best case, there is a haze that seems to move over the black parts, worst case, im seeing big moving blue/purple blocks in the black. It seems worse on SD-DVD and Satellite HD. Blu Ray is a bit better. I'm using pioneer 59AVI SD-DVD, Pioneer Elite BDP94 Blu-Ray via HDMI and DirectTV HD-DVR over componenet. One post in the VW60 calibration thread pointed towards using the wrong color space. I'm trying to find out if its an issue like this, or a problem with the projector itself. Currently D2 is set to HDTV 4:4:4 with a 1080p/60 signal. Thoughts??



Bob says "For HDMI devices your starting point should by YCbCr 4:4:4" See the following post for most info:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...r#post13015652 


EDIT: Looks like Bob beat me to the punch!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14438048
> 
> 
> Well, unless there's a trick up their sleeve, I can't see how ARC could distinguish physical distance from time delay, so the direct answer is really moot. In my case, the sub is my end-table and serves to hold the cognac and cigars, so it is within arm's length (if I lean over a bit) while the center is about 10feet in front of me. ARC says the sub is 7 feet away. All recent versions of ARC have put the center channel crossover at 45Hz (Audyssey puts it at 60Hz) and integration/localization are not problems at all. FWIW.



In your case your center crossover is low enough that this particular sub problem wouldn't occur (no bass being steered to the sub from the center channel).


I don't think it is a timing thing. It's just that when you are close to any speaker you will pick up things from that speaker that would not otherwise be noticeable. "Near field" perception.


For people who have center speakers requiring a higher crossover, some of that gets steered to the sub and if you are sitting right next to the sub, I guess it can be distracting.

--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Interesting....just saw that on the input adjust for my satellite input, HDTV and Extended RGB was Chosen. I switched that to Studio..but didn't see any real time improvement on the picture. I also noticed that the D2 is reporting the input from DVD is HDMI RGB. Should it be HDMI YCbCr? If so, I'll have to dig out the manual to remember where to change that.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14438066
> 
> 
> We have lots of Pearl users posting here, so I'm sure someone will chime in, but I don't recall any posts of unusual settings needed to make the Peal work well with the D2.
> 
> 
> So go back to basics. Remember that you have multiple Video Configurations in the D2, so make sure you have each Setup / Source Setup set to use the Video Configuration you think you are using. It is also possible to change the currently selected Video Configuration from the remote, so double-check that you aren't doing that by mistake -- perhaps via a programmable remote.
> 
> 
> The symptom you describe sounds like your black levels are way too high -- i.e, that you are seeing the Blacker than Black content in the source video. A common reason for that is indeed that you've got a Data Format mismatch -- for example that you have the display set to expect Extended RGB when you are sending it Studio RGB. But you can get the same result by any bad setting that has the effect of cranking black levels (Brightness control) up too high.
> 
> 
> Remember that the D2 also has picture controls on the input side. Look in the Video Source Adjust menu for each Source (press and hold the "7" key while viewing that source).
> 
> 
> For more hints on the basics of getting video set up, check out the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post in the collection of post links found in the first post of this thread.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14438651
> 
> 
> Interesting....just saw that on the input adjust for my satellite input, HDTV and Extended RGB was Chosen. I switched that to Studio..but didn't see any real time improvement on the picture. I also noticed that the D2 is reporting the input from DVD is HDMI RGB. Should it be HDMI YCbCr? If so, I'll have to dig out the manual to remember where to change that.



That part of the Video Source Adjust menu has two entirely different types of setting in the same place.


If the current input signal is YCbCr, then one setting determines which set of color space math is used to convert it to RGB (for internal processing in the D2). Usually you will set that to Auto which means it uses HDTV math for a 720p or higher input signal and SDTV math otherwise. But it offers the ability to force use of the "wrong" math for source devices that don't put out the correct style of YCbCr signal.


Again, that setting only has effect if the current input from that source happens to by YCbCr.


Meanwhile there is an entirely separate setting in there which only has effect when the current input from that source happens to be RGB. That one tells the D2 whether to expect Studio RGB (Black=16) or Extended RGB (Black=0) from the RGB source device.


Normally you will want that set to Studio RGB. Home theater source devices which send out RGB, generally send Studio RGB by default. If you tell the D2 to expect Extended RGB instead then your image will appear washed out in the dark grays and you will see noise which is actually the Blacker than Black data. This is because the D2 thinks Black is going to come over as 0 but the source is actually sending it over as 16. So you are seeing 16 steps of stuff "below black" that are supposed to be invisible.


If all of your sources are sending RGB like that, and if all of your Video Source Adjust settings are wrong like that, than that alone could be the cause of your problem.


Set the Video Source Adjust menu to expect Studio RGB instead. If the source will send out YCbCr that will be another solution -- and a better one -- but make the Studio RGB change in the D2 menu as well so you don't run into this RGB issue in the future. (YCbCr always sends Black=16, so there is no setting for YCbCr like the one for RGB.)


Remember that the Video Source Adjust menu settings are separately saved for each Source device, so you need to select each Source in turn, bring up its Video Source Adjust menu in the D2, and make the change for each of them.


If you do a Save User and/or Installer Settings, your complete set of Video Source Adjust menu settings will be saved in there as well.

--Bob


----------



## AV-NUT-99

Guys,


Another quick question.


I recall reading in some of the (much) earlier posts that some of the earlier firmware download versions included a "settings editor" which allowed you to save all of your interal D2 settings to a file on your laptop. When I upgraded to 1.21 and then to 1.33 I only see a "video settings editor" which I believe was added so that you could save all the video settings that were added with those new FW releases. I don't see the previous "settings editor" any longer.


Does the new video settings editor save all the normal setup info as well, or was that dropped due to possible problems/issues. I wanted to save all of the setup info when I did the 1.33 upgrade but was anxious to get into the ARC stuff so I did not persue at the time.


Another question on Subwoofer phasing adjust prior to running ARC. You may recall I have two Velodyne SC-12 passive subs running on the Velodyne amplifier in my equipment rack (same signal is sent to both subs from sub out on the D2). I have four phase settings that I can apply, 0 degrees, 90 degrees, 270 degrees, and 360 degrees. My understanding of the need for phase adjustment is to not cancel out the output of one sub by having a second sub out of phase (worst case would be 180 degrees difference from one to the other) and thus cancelling output. Since I can't set these independently (the same setting goes to each sub) the only other area of concern would occurr if my subs were out of phase with my main L/R ( Sig 8s ). But, when trying to do the initial output level setting, as clearly laid out by Bob, I am not able to use the radio shack meter to determine if I am having any phasing issue between the subs and my mains because the test sigmals are sent out to each speaker independently. When the sub level adjust signal is output, I tried switching to different phase positions on the Velodyne amp, but could not detect any difference in output level between any of the settings (which is what I would expect) since each sub would always be in the same phase as the other. The possibility exists though, that my subs could be out of phase with my Sig 8s without my knowing it. I used the 0 degree setting and I don't see any real anomolies in my graphs, other than huge peaks at 30Hz, 70Hz, and 110Hz on my front L/R. I see the high peak at 30Hz in the sub graph, but not at 70Hz or at 110Hz, in fact the sub out put rolls off very quickly past about 60 Hz. I would think I would at least see the 70Hz peak replicated in the raw graph of the sub since the room should effect these frequencies equally. Only other posibility is that my Sub placement has them in a "null" area for this frequency and my front L/R positioning could be catching peak areas for the 70HZ and 110HZ room modes as 2 feet could make a lot of difference. I do recall that we put the front L/R speakers at this poistion due to perceived better base out put.


I may have answered my own questions on this, which is what I usually end up doing due to stressing my brain so much trying to get my thoughts written down







, but I would be interested in further discussion on this or at least hearing you thoughts or difficulties, if any, with sub phasing.


FYI - my subs are currently placed in the front L/R corners of my 12 X 19 X 10 enclosed, dedicated theater room, approximately 2 1/2 feet behind the front L/R speakers with each sub facing to the rear opposite corner. The subs are single driver sealed - no ports.


Cheers


John Dixon


P.S. I am leaving work now, so it will be about an hour before I can get back on.


----------



## Massimo N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14421460
> 
> 
> There were some reports a while back that people were having troubles playing some of the SACDs out there that have unusual speaker setups (e.g. 4.0) using an Oppo player and HDMI PCM audio.
> 
> 
> At the time, I believe it was thought this was an Oppo problem, but I'm not sure that proved to be true. Oppo was undoubtedly in touch with Anthem on this, and so you might want to send an email to Anthem tech support and see if they have any updates on this, and in particular whether they know it to be a player problem with your player.
> 
> 
> I presume you are already on the V1.33 Anthem firmware. If not they will likely suggest you try that as a first step.
> 
> 
> ETA: I don't think I own any 5.0 tracks that I can try this way.
> 
> --Bob



I contacted Anthem and got a response back quickly, as usual







. The Anthem only accepts 5.1 or 2.0 over PCM HDMI. Given this, and that for my purposes, I'll just send bitstream and let the AVM do the decoding instead. It has no problem accepting a 5.0 DD bitstream, just 5.0 PCM over HDMI.


I tested a 5.0 Dolby True HD, HD DVD and the Toshiba sends this as a 5.1 PCM stream with the .1 muted.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV-NUT-99* /forum/post/14439481
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> 
> Another quick question.
> 
> 
> I recall reading in some of the (much) earlier posts that some of the earlier firmware download versions included a "settings editor" which allowed you to save all of your interal D2 settings to a file on your laptop. When I upgraded to 1.21 and then to 1.33 I only see a "video settings editor" which I believe was added so that you could save all the video settings that were added with those new FW releases. I don't see the previous "settings editor" any longer.
> 
> 
> Does the new video settings editor save all the normal setup info as well, or was that dropped due to possible problems/issues. I wanted to save all of the setup info when I did the 1.33 upgrade but was anxious to get into the ARC stuff so I did not persue at the time.



The Live Video Settings Editor only handles the Video Source Adjust menu settings. It does not handle the Setup menu settings.


The Setup Editor -- the program that DOES handle the Setup menu settings -- does not currently exist in a form fully compatible with the V1.3x firmware releases. This is due to a change of format for those settings in the Setup menu.


On the password protected download page, Anthem tech support has placed a copy of an older version of Setup Editor which must be used *ONLY* to do a direct memory copy of the Setup menu data between the Anthem and a file on the PC. There is also a text file with instructions for this. This can be used to make a backup copy of your Setup menu settings to a PC file, but, in general, you must restore that into the same version of firmware that was in place when you made the copy. And you can't open or examine the settings (either loading them from the PC file or the Anthem) because they are stored in a format that this version of Setup Editor does not understand.


Because of the risks of people screwing this up, Anthem hasn't put it on the public download page. But if you send Anthem tech support an email they can give you access to the password page so you can get that program.


I don't know if Anthem has plans to bring Setup Editor back in an updated version.


----------------------------------------------


So far, we haven't had any reports here of folks losing their Setup menu settings when upgrading to V1.33 from any older version. Prior to the install, make sure you have a good copy of Saved User and/or Installer Settings. Reload Factory defaults. Do the V1.33 install. After that I suggest you Reload Factory defaults AGAIN. Then Reload Saved User Settings.


If upgrading from V1.29x or earlier you *WILL* need to use Live Video Settings Editor to save your old Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file, and to reload them from that file after the V1.33 firmware install.


Also, when upgrading from V1.29x or earlier, after you've loaded up your Saved User Settings and also restored your Video Source Adjust settings, power down the Anthem, power it up, wait 30 seconds, and power it down again. Although we don't have details, it appears this is necessary to make sure your older settings (now reloaded) are properly recognized by the new firmware. This is not necessary when moving between V1.3x releases.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Massimo N* /forum/post/14439680
> 
> 
> I contacted Anthem and got a response back quickly, as usual
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The Anthem only accepts 5.1 or 2.0 over PCM HDMI. Given this, and that for my purposes, I'll just send bitstream and let the AVM do the decoding instead. It has no problem accepting a 5.0 DD bitstream, just 5.0 PCM over HDMI.
> 
> 
> I tested a 5.0 Dolby True HD, HD DVD and the Toshiba sends this as a 5.1 PCM stream with the .1 muted.



Thanks for the update on that. I must say I'm surprised by this restriction in the Anthem. Presumably this means that Oppo fixed their problem by having the player output 5.1 PCM with some channels muted.

--Bob


----------



## AV-NUT-99

Bob,


OK, I understand what you are saying on the older settings editor. I don't really need it now as I had no problem saving my settings to user and installer, then bringing them back in as you described. Just more curious and I was thinking about it since I had pulled all the plugs on my stuff when we had the tropical storm here in Houston a few weeks back and due to work and travel, have not had an opportunity to plug everything back in - hope to tonight.


Thanks,


----------



## Massimo N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14439733
> 
> 
> Thanks for the update on that. I must say I'm surprised by this restriction in the Anthem. Presumably this means that Oppo fixed their problem by having the player output 5.1 PCM with some channels muted.
> 
> --Bob



I came to the same conclusion, as I couldn't find the final outcome on the Oppo in this thread.


Given that the Toshiba HD DVD players are discontinued, a new firmware is very unlikely. Since I'm using the Toshiba HD-A30 for my DVD playback (480i over HDMI) exclusively I'm not concerned with this restriction ATM. My 5.0 HD DVDs that require player decoding is sent Anthem friendly (5.1 with a channel muted) so no issues.


Since I don't have a blu ray player yet (still waiting on a player that meets my requirements, although the soon to be release in Canada Pioneer BDP-51FD is looking very good), I am curious how blu ray will handle 5.0 PCM over HDMI.


I was told by Anthem support that he will try to get an answer from their engineers if this is part of the HDMI spec or unique to the design of Anthem.


----------



## AV-NUT-99

Bob,


In looking at your raw sub graph, you have 75 DB output at 100 Hz where I am somewhere below the lower limit of the graph at 100 Hz. Makes me think I am defiitely sitting in a "null" for that frequency in my room. I will try moving them out to maybe match my front L/R placement and redo the measurements.


Where is you DD 18 located in your room?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV-NUT-99* /forum/post/14439481
> 
> 
> Another question on Subwoofer phasing adjust prior to running ARC. You may recall I have two Velodyne SC-12 passive subs running on the Velodyne amplifier in my equipment rack (same signal is sent to both subs from sub out on the D2). I have four phase settings that I can apply, 0 degrees, 90 degrees, 270 degrees, and 360 degrees. My understanding of the need for phase adjustment is to not cancel out the output of one sub by having a second sub out of phase (worst case would be 180 degrees difference from one to the other) and thus cancelling output. Since I can't set these independently (the same setting goes to each sub) the only other area of concern would occurr if my subs were out of phase with my main L/R ( Sig 8s ). But, when trying to do the initial output level setting, as clearly laid out by Bob, I am not able to use the radio shack meter to determine if I am having any phasing issue between the subs and my mains because the test sigmals are sent out to each speaker independently. When the sub level adjust signal is output, I tried switching to different phase positions on the Velodyne amp, but could not detect any difference in output level between any of the settings (which is what I would expect) since each sub would always be in the same phase as the other. The possibility exists though, that my subs could be out of phase with my Sig 8s without my knowing it. I used the 0 degree setting and I don't see any real anomolies in my graphs, other than huge peaks at 30Hz, 70Hz, and 110Hz on my front L/R. I see the high peak at 30Hz in the sub graph, but not at 70Hz or at 110Hz, in fact the sub out put rolls off very quickly past about 60 Hz. I would think I would at least see the 70Hz peak replicated in the raw graph of the sub since the room should effect these frequencies equally. Only other posibility is that my Sub placement has them in a "null" area for this frequency and my front L/R positioning could be catching peak areas for the 70HZ and 110HZ room modes as 2 feet could make a lot of difference. I do recall that we put the front L/R speakers at this poistion due to perceived better base out put.
> 
> 
> I may have answered my own questions on this, which is what I usually end up doing due to stressing my brain so much trying to get my thoughts written down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I would be interested in further discussion on this or at least hearing you thoughts or difficulties, if any, with sub phasing.
> 
> 
> FYI - my subs are currently placed in the front L/R corners of my 12 X 19 X 10 enclosed, dedicated theater room, approximately 2 1/2 feet behind the front L/R speakers with each sub facing to the rear opposite corner. The subs are single driver sealed - no ports.



With multiple subwoofers you have two problems to address:


You want to make sure all the subwoofers are in phase with each other -- so that there is no cancellation of the output of one sub by any other sub.


In addition, you want to make sure your combination of subwoofers is in phase with the main speakers so that the output of the subwoofers does not cancel out any of the output from the main speakers in the vicinity of the crossover where they are both active.


The typical procedure is to use the Left Front speaker as the surrogate for all the main speakers and to adjust each subwoofer independently to be in phase with the Left Front speaker. When all subs are in phase with the same main speaker then they are, as a result, also in phase with each other.


But to do this you need two things:


1) A way to send pink noise (noise that's all in the low frequency range) through both the Left Front speaker and each individual subwoofer (all by itself) at the same time, and


2) A way to separately adjust the phase and polarity of each subwoofer separately from the other subwoofers.


You can accomplish (1) by powering down all but one subwoofer at a time and then playing the pink noise test (usually labeled as a subwoofer phase test) from any of the common video calibration DVD discs, such as Avia, or Digital Video Essentials. If you are getting 5.1 input from the player then leave the Anthem in "NONE" audio mode. If you are getting stereo from the player then leave the Anthem in Stereo audio mode. The Movie or Music bass manager will steer bass to the subwoofer as well. [Note that you can not use the Anthem's own internal test tones to do this test.] Once you have adjusted for one subwoofer, power it down and repeat for every other subwoofer.


Accomplishing (2) depends on your subwoofer equipment. If I understand you correctly, the subwoofer amp you are using does not give you the ability to alter the phase of one subwoofer with respect to the other, and there's no way to get around that in the subwoofer amp (i.e., there's no separate output which bypasses that phase control). And that your subwoofers themselves do not have their own phase controls because they are passive (have no internal amp).


If that's the case then you are stuck. There is no way for you to alter the phase of one subwoofer with respect to the other.


So until you change subwoofers, what you should do is ignore the potential issue of the subs being out of phase with each other and just get the pair of them in phase with your mains.


To do that, set the phase control on the subwoofer amp to any fixed value -- 0 degrees would be my choice. Then run the pink noise from the calibration DVD (so that BOTH subs and your Left Front speaker are playing simultaneously), and use the Polarity and Phase controls in the Anthem itself -- Setup / Speaker Calibration / Move and Music -- to adjust the Polarity and Phase of your pair of subs (together) against the Left Front speaker.


--------------------------------------------


By the way, with both subs powered by the same amp, and with the two subs symmetrically positioned either side of, and equidistant from, the main listening position, and with both subs being of the same construction, the odds are they will be in phase with each other without you having to do anything.


The worst that can happen is that you have one sub's wires physically reversed compared to the other sub -- meaning they will be 180 degrees out of phase.


So make sure you haven't done that and then concentrate on getting the pair of them properly in phase with the Left Front speaker and you should be in good shape.


------------------------------------------------


It is also the case that the phasing difference between a pair of subs like this and the Left Front speaker -- even when the phase is 180 degrees wrong -- can be harder to detect because the slight variations in positioning (one sub is closer to that Left Front speaker) will naturally tend to smooth out the cancellation from either sub.


That is, it may be hard for you to determine the right setting of the Anthem's Polarity and Phase control because you can't hear the difference between "best" and "worst" setting when playing the 2 subs against the LF speaker. This is not a bad thing. One of the advantages of having multiple subs is that phasing issues naturally blend away.


But if so, you might want to try this:


Power up only one sub and adjust it against the LF speaker using the Anthem's controls. Note the setting you end up with.


Now power up just the other sub and do the same thing. If the result is different, try splitting the difference in setting in the Anthem, and use that as your candidate "best" setting.


Now that you have an idea where the "best" setting most likely happens to be, power up BOTH subs again and try again. Start with the "best" setting you just determined and then compare that to the setting 180 degrees away from that to see if you can hear any difference. If you can, then see if you can refine your "best" setting at all. If that's too tough to hear, just go with that "best" setting you've already determined.


---------------------------------------------------


It is a good idea to get the volume levels for your main speakers and subs set at least ballpark close before adjusting Polarity and Phase. Cancellation can be a subtle effect and it is easier to hear if the two speakers are putting out about the same volume. When running the pink noise test from the calibration DVD, set the Anthem's Main Volume control to a level that yields about 75dB SPL reading. That's loud enough for you to hear what you need to hear without being so loud that it becomes too painful to listen long enough to hone in on the "best" setting. Trust your ears and adjust Main Volume up or down from that as necessary so that you can complete this task. It takes a while to do a careful listen.


Again what you are looking for is the Polarity and Phase setting that produces the "fullest" sounding bass -- the least cancellation. In particular when comparing a subwoofer against the Left Front speaker, choose the setting that seems to produce the maximum amount of volume in the higher frequencies of the pink noise test as that's the area near the crossover where cancellation will occur.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV-NUT-99* /forum/post/14439832
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> In looking at your raw sub graph, you have 75 DB output at 100 Hz where I am somewhere below the lower limit of the graph at 100 Hz. Makes me think I am defiitely sitting in a "null" for that frequency in my room. I will try moving them out to maybe match my front L/R placement and redo the measurements.
> 
> 
> Where is you DD 18 located in your room?



I have a DD-15 and it is located in the room corner at the front left of the room -- outwards of the Left Front speaker.


But the most common reason for a dropoff up there would be the crossover settings. In my case ARC has set the DD-15 crossover to 120Hz so there's no extra attenuation at 100Hz. ARC may have set yours lower.


It is also absolutely essential to make sure the internal crossover has been disabled inside the subwoofer. For the DD-18, go to the crossover frequency setting in the upper left of the Velodyne's settings page. Hit Select to open that setting for changes, and then hit Reset on the remote. All of the crossover related settings should now change to NA, meaning the internal crossover in the DD-18 is disabled. Don't forget to Save your changes when you Exit. You will, of course, have to redo your ARC Measurements.


If you have the sub's internal crossover turned on, ARC will have no choice but to live with that -- meaning your sub response will drop faster as you go up in frequency.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

I would like to experiment a bit with ARC, but where my initial results appeared to be quite good, I am apprehensive about tinkering with things too much. If I were to experiment a bit and decide I don't like the settings, is it possible to reload my current results? How is that done?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14440223
> 
> 
> I would like to experiment a bit with ARC, but where my initial results appeared to be quite good, I am apprehensive about tinkering with things too much. If I were to experiment a bit and decide I don't like the settings, is it possible to reload my current results? How is that done?



Simple. Just do each of your experiments in a separate file.


I recommend you exit ARC after taking the Measurements and write protect that file -- a file with just your Measurements in it; no Calculated results yet. Then make as many copies of it as you want. When you are ready to do an experiment, write enable one of those copies, run ARC in Advanced mode, Open your copied file, setup and run your Calculation, and Upload it. Then exit ARC and write protect that file -- a file that now contains both your Measurements and the Calculation results you just produced.


Over time you will build up several results files like this and you can Open any of them (careful choice of file names will help here) in ARC Advanced mode and Upload it again -- replacing whatever's in the Anthem's ARC stuff prior to that.


Remember to Save User and/or Installer Settings after doing an Upload to capture the Setup menu changes made by the latest Upload.


CAUTION: We've had a handful of reports of ARC Uploads causing all the Setup menu settings to revert to Factory Default values. Typically this will be obvious (your video goes away and you have to use the Front Panel display). In any event, take a look at what's in the Setup menu after the Upload and before you do the Save User Settings just to make sure you are about to save a good set of settings. If you are unlucky enough to have this happen to you (and it is apparently quite rare), it is easy to recover so long as you still have a good set of your prior Saved User or Installer Settings. Power cycle the Anthem to get it into a fresh state, Reload Saved User Settings (using the Front Panel display if necessary), and do the Upload of ARC stuff again. We've not had any reports of this happening twice.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14436325
> 
> 
> We still don't have a good answer for why the Target curves vary up there. Need to get more details from Nick (when he gets back from vacation).
> 
> 
> The Calculated curves up there track the Measured curves because, by default, the Max EQ Frequency Target is set to 5KHz -- i.e., ARC doesn't try to adjust things above 5KHz.
> 
> --Bob



I notice in the targets window that ARC sets the maximum EQ frequency to be 5kHz, but can you tell me why it does this? It appears as though this can be changed, so why not set it to 20 kHz?


----------



## jesjammin

Guys,


I just ordered the ARC upgrade for my 2 year old AVM50. My dealer called to tell me it was in. When I asked when they could do the install they said "what install?". They had opened the box and it only contains the CD, mike, stand and cables. NO HARDWARE. I had read in this thread that there was a DSP upgrade that required a dealer to open up the unit. Can anyone confirm this as true and/or if some AVM50s don't need it?


thanks...


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14440273
> 
> 
> Simple. Just do each of your experiments in a separate file.
> 
> 
> I recommend you exit ARC after taking the Measurements and write protect that file -- a file with just your Measurements in it; no Calculated results yet. Then make as many copies of it as you want. When you are ready to do an experiment, write enable one of those copies, run ARC in Advanced mode, Open your copied file, setup and run your Calculation, and Upload it. Then exit ARC and write protect that file -- a file that now contains both your Measurements and the Calculation results you just produced.
> 
> 
> Over time you will build up several results files like this and you can Open any of them (careful choice of file names will help here) in ARC Advanced mode and Upload it again -- replacing whatever's in the Anthem's ARC stuff prior to that.
> 
> 
> Remember to Save User and/or Installer Settings after doing an Upload to capture the Setup menu changes made by the latest Upload.
> 
> 
> CAUTION: We've had a handful of reports of ARC Uploads causing all the Setup menu settings to revert to Factory Default values. Typically this will be obvious (your video goes away and you have to use the Front Panel display). In any event, take a look at what's in the Setup menu after the Upload and before you do the Save User Settings just to make sure you are about to save a good set of settings. If you are unlucky enough to have this happen to you (and it is apparently quite rare), it is easy to recover so long as you still have a good set of your prior Saved User or Installer Settings. Power cycle the Anthem to get it into a fresh state, Reload Saved User Settings (using the Front Panel display if necessary), and do the Upload of ARC stuff again. We've not had any reports of this happening twice.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Thanks....I think I will have to try it to fully understand your instructions. I don't quite understand why you are telling me to write protect the files either.


In any case, looking at my curves and targets, do you have any suggestions in what I should try?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14440311
> 
> 
> I notice in the targets window that ARC sets the maximum EQ frequency to be 5kHz, but can you tell me why it does this? It appears as though this can be changed, so why not set it to 20 kHz?



You might want to read back through the thread on some of the discussion on this as there has been quite a lot.


The output of the speakers gets more directional as the frequency goes up. This means the ARC mic may pick up variations at the different mic positions that are not really due to room response but just due to "directionality". ARC has no way of knowing.


This is most likely to happen if any of your tweeters are above or below seated ear height as speakers tend to have poorer vertical dispersion patterns than horizontal patterns.


To avoid this problem, ARC stops correcting things at the Max EQ Frequency. It's actually quite amazing that ARC works as well as it does all the way up to 5KHz, and originally Anthem was strongly advising against raising this number.


They've since had a number of good reports from people who have had success raising the number. But if you raise it too far you will notice that the Calculated results get poorer in the lower frequencies due to ARC using some of its resources higher up.


And if you get bitten by the directionality problem, raising the frequency may result in Calculated curves that look good higher up, but that's misleading because the MEASURED values ARC is working with have been biased.


So if you want to experiment, look to pick a value that seems a natural point to raise ARC's efforts. I'm using 12KHz right now for example. You can also do a calculation at 20KHz to see what happens to the lower frequencies. But in the final analysis you need to trust your ears. If a higher setting sounds good then it probably is good. If it sounds bad, then it IS bad -- even if the Calculated curves suggest it should sound good.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jesjammin* /forum/post/14440376
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> 
> I just ordered the ARC upgrade for my 2 year old AVM50. My dealer called to tell me it was in. When I asked when they could do the install they said "what install?". They had opened the box and it only contains the CD, mike, stand and cables. NO HARDWARE. I had read in this thread that there was a DSP upgrade that required a dealer to open up the unit. Can anyone confirm this as true and/or if some AVM50s don't need it?
> 
> 
> thanks...



The DSP is in the same box that the base is in, so make sure they check in there. You definitely need it and I don't think Anthem would have forgotten it.


----------



## jesjammin

Thanks bluemark81, I will call them first thing to verify.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14440381
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks....I think I will have to try it to fully understand your instructions. I don't quite understand why you are telling me to write protect the files either.
> 
> 
> In any case, looking at my curves and targets, do you have any suggestions in what I should try?



ARC writes to the currently Open file as you make changes. Write protecting the files means you can open them to study them without risking that you might accidentally do something that changes them. Potentially losing your work in them.


----------------------------------------


Your charts look fine to me and the results should sound great!


Your sub is dropping down in the Music configuration because ARC has assigned a low crossover value to it. That makes sense since you only have your front speakers in that configuration and they don't need any more bass assist than that. So ARC can just avoid having to deal with your severe room mode below 100Hz. This is likely a good thing. The only problem would be if you play content that actually includes an LFE channel in Music configuration as you will lose some of the higher frequencies of that.


In Movie configuration, your Rears in particular needed a little more bass assist so ARC set the sub crossover higher and the sub is responding properly. So I don't think you have a problem in your sub's setup or positioning.


The rest of the curves look fine. Your residuals (Calculated vs. Target) are quite small and I see no significant problems. You might have a slight improvement raising the Max EQ Frequency -- I'd try 12KHz based on your charts -- but it's not likely to be a dramatic improvement since your front speakers are already good out that far.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14440273
> 
> 
> We've not had any reports of this happening twice.
> 
> --Bob



That's great to hear. Happened to me on my first try about 2 months ago and I have been waiting for it to happen again. Now, I can relax.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14440562
> 
> 
> That's great to hear. Happened to me on my first try about 2 months ago and I have been waiting for it to happen again. Now, I can relax.



I suspect what's happening is that they've put some safety checks into the new firmware to detect any corrupted Setup settings (values out of range or some such), and if any are found it falls back to Factory Defaults rather than trying to repair just the bad value.


It may be that the ARC Upload is triggering some of these safety checks -- meaning that if you had a corrupted value in there that hadn't been caught, it now gets caught. That might explain why it hasn't happened twice to anybody. Of course that's just a guess on my part.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14433379
> 
> 
> new sub new results, this is option 3. Looks like I have a sub now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but the other results are worse then I had before.
> 
> The good news is the levels are 1-2db up or down and the sub is minus 2 not 8 like before.
> 
> I will save the settings and do a reARC with option 2 tomorrow and see which sounds best and looks best. So far though no real listening as its late and baby is in bed.



Yes, your new sub does look pretty darn good! I too am interested in your next measurements. Of course you should also listen to some of your favorite music and movie scenes at each location, to see if you can hear a difference.


----------



## bluemark81

I tried playing around with different max EQ settings. Here are mine for 20,000 Hz. I haven't uploaded them to the Anthem yet. I will show my settings for 6000 Hz as well. These are two of the best I've found.


----------



## bluemark81

Following are the results of my 6000 hz setting.


----------



## learflyer

In preparation for installing ARC (which I will be picling up from the dealer tomorrow) on my D2, I decided to review my setup. When I selected setup on the remote all I got was a blue screen. Got the same result by selecting setup on the front of the D2. Everything else is working fine, including the OSD and the video setting screen (#7 on the remote). I get the Anthem Logo on start up and the video from all sources is great.


The last time I was in setup mode was some time ago as everything has been working well and I've had no need to make changes. Setup was working fine previously.


I'm still using the original software version (v1.21) that came with the unit last year. I have never done an update or reload. After discovering the problem I tried powering down the D2 in all possible ways - remote power off, rear switch, unplugging the power cord and even unplugging all my source equipment. I'm using HDMI between all video sources but haven't unplugged any of the HDMI cables to prevent possible damage. I did check to ensure they are well seated.


I seem to recall seeing a post some time ago about a simialr problem but couldn't find anything with a similar problem by searching this forum.


Any help would be appreciated.


Thanks

RW


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *learflyer* /forum/post/14441407
> 
> 
> In preparation for installing ARC (which I will be picling up from the dealer tomorrow) on my D2, I decided to review my setup. When I selected setup on the remote all I got was a blue screen. Got the same result by selecting setup on the front of the D2. Everything else is working fine, including the OSD and the video setting screen (#7 on the remote). I get the Anthem Logo on start up and the video from all sources is great.
> 
> 
> The last time I was in setup mode was some time ago as everything has been working well and I've had no need to make changes. Setup was working fine previously.
> 
> 
> I'm still using the original software version (v1.21) that came with the unit last year. I have never done an update or reload. After discovering the problem I tried powering down the D2 in all possible ways - remote power off, rear switch, unplugging the power cord and even unplugging all my source equipment. I'm using HDMI between all video sources but haven't unplugged any of the HDMI cables to prevent possible damage. I did check to ensure they are well seated.
> 
> 
> I seem to recall seeing a post some time ago about a simialr problem but couldn't find anything with a similar problem by searching this forum.
> 
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> RW



The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source. If you have any other S-video source devices, one thing you can check is whether or not they work through the scaler to you HDMI output.


Most people who have had S-video issues, such as with the Setup menu, have discovered that a re-install of the firmware fixes the problem.


You are on V1.21 now so you could just try re-installing that, or you could go to the V1.33 firmware right now, which you'll have to do anyway to use ARC.


------------------------------


You mentioned that you tried to go into Setup using the front panel. I suspect you meant that you entered setup using the front panel but couldn't see it on your TV screen.


If instead what you meant was that it didn't even come up on the Front Panel display then that's a more serious problem and you should probably call Anthem tech support. They will probably tell you to try the firmware install (to V1.33) anyway, but it would be wise to talk to them first, since loss of the Front Panel display is rare.

--Bob


----------



## learflyer

Hi Bob:


Thanks for the quick repsonse. You are right about my reference to using the front of the D2. The setup menus show up there - just not on the screen. I guess I will just go ahead and install v1.33 when I get it (I assume it will come with the ARC package?)and see if that solves the problem.


RW


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *learflyer* /forum/post/14441616
> 
> 
> Hi Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick repsonse. You are right about my reference to using the front of the D2. The setup menus show up there - just not on the screen. I guess I will just go ahead and install v1.33 when I get it (I assume it will come with the ARC package?)and see if that solves the problem.
> 
> 
> RW



You can download V1.33 now from the Anthem public downloads page. Be sure to follow the instructions carefully.


You will need to save your Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file (using Live Video Settings Editor). Also, make sure you have your Setup menu settings saved in Saved User and/or Installer Settings. You can use the Front Panel display for that. Then Reload Factory settings before doing the firmware install. Make sure you don't have any powered HDMI connections during the install (I suggest you remove power from everything else to be sure).


After the Firmware install you Reload your Saved User Settings, and then restore your Video Source Adjust menu from the PC file (again using Live Video Settings Editor), and finally do the power down, power up, wait 30 seconds and power down cycle to complete things.

--Bob


----------



## AV-NUT-99

Bob,


Thanks again for the detailed response on the subwoofer phasing. I will work on that and let everyone know how I make out.


----------



## CycloneMike

How long is it taking users to get their ARC kits for their D2's once they are ordered? I am coming up on three weeks - is that normal?


Mike


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14441098
> 
> 
> Following are the results of my 6000 hz setting.



Compard to your 20000 results you can see the smoothing in the low end at 6000, just what Bob was talking about. 20000 looks too high.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14441783
> 
> 
> How long is it taking users to get their ARC kits for their D2's once they are ordered? I am coming up on three weeks - is that normal?
> 
> 
> Mike



That's normal. Like their other products, they get made and shipped in batches. So your lead time will depend on the luck of where they are in that cycle when you place your order.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jesjammin* /forum/post/14440376
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> 
> I just ordered the ARC upgrade for my 2 year old AVM50. My dealer called to tell me it was in. When I asked when they could do the install they said "what install?". They had opened the box and it only contains the CD, mike, stand and cables. NO HARDWARE. I had read in this thread that there was a DSP upgrade that required a dealer to open up the unit. Can anyone confirm this as true and/or if some AVM50s don't need it?
> 
> 
> thanks...



As stated by the other responder, yes you will need the new DSP board installed in your AVM50. I'm pretty sure Anthem checks your unit type by serial number so that your dealer can't order a D2 ARC kit by mistake (which would, of course, not come with a DSP board).


Since your dealer sounds a little clueless here, I'll also remind you that you will need to install the V1.33 firmware after the replacement DSP board is installed *EVEN IF* you already have V1.33 installed in your AVM unit. This is necessary for the firmware to recognize, and set up properly for, the new DSP hardware.

--Bob


----------



## jlwine

After having an Anthem AVM 20 for many years I just purchased an AVM 50. When sending a signal from either my TiVo Series 3 and my Directv HR20 via HDMi to the Anthem and then to the TV the picture is very "blotchy." If I go straight to the TV a 52" Sony Bravia XBR4 the picture is excellent. When going through the Anthem, although the blacks looks excellent and and the colors are fairly acurate the image apppears like it is painted in water colors. Watching swimmmers in the Olympics their bare skin looks painted on with very unnatural shawdows. I have been throught the calibration steps on the first post of this thread and I have tried all the different color spaces and data under Video Configurations. I have even made sure that the incoming native signal from sources matches the output from the AVM 50. I'm sure Im missing something-but I sure cant figure it out--please help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlwine* /forum/post/14444816
> 
> 
> After having an Anthem AVM 20 for many years I just purchased an AVM 50. When sending a signal from either my TiVo Series 3 and my Directv HR20 via HDMi to the Anthem and then to the TV the picture is very "blotchy." If I go straight to the TV a 52" Sony Bravia XBR4 the picture is excellent. When going through the Anthem, although the blacks looks excellent and and the colors are fairly acurate the image apppears like it is painted in water colors. Watching swimmmers in the Olympics their bare skin looks painted on with very unnatural shawdows. I have been throught the calibration steps on the first post of this thread and I have tried all the different color spaces and data under Video Configurations. I have even made sure that the incoming native signal from sources matches the output from the AVM 50. I'm sure Im missing something-but I sure cant figure it out--please help.



This is something that's hard to address without being right there to see what you are seeing, but let's give it a try.


First I need you to report some stuff:


Select one of these sources that's giving you bad video.


Bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (under the "7" key) and report what it is showing for video input and output in the Info panel.


Also report the settings you currently have set in its Picture, Crop Input, Scale Out, and Output panels. Scroll down into those to get the numeric values.


Next report the settings in Setup / Video Output for the Video Configuration you are using for that source.


Finally, if there are any source device picture settings you can find, report those, and then go to your display and report what you have set for its settings for the HDMI input from the Anthem. Give me ALL the video related settings you can find -- including the basic Brightness/Contrast/Color/Tint/Sharpness values and any other confusing settings like "AGC". For the display's settings like Brightness, please tell me the range of those as well: E.g. Brightness is 45 in the range 1-100.


This will tell us if there is anything obvious wrong in your setup. If not, then we'll have to walk you through the process of checking your specific settings.


-----------------------------------------------


Another thing to try is to temporarily hook up Component video from the source and also between the Anthem and the display to see if you have the same issue. This will tell us if the problem seems to be isolated to HDMI input or output or is also happening with Component.


If the Component hookup is better, then try Component input to the Anthem and HDMI output to the display. That will tell us if the problem is on the HDMI input side or output side.


----------------------------------------------


I'm assuming your input connections are HDMI to HDMI and that your output to the display is also HDMI to HDMI. If in fact either of those is HDMI to DVI let me know. Also I'm assuming you have no intervening devices on either side such as HDMI switcher or splitter boxes. Let me know if that's not true.


ETA: I also need you to report the settings you are currently using in Setup / Source Setup for that source device.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14442683
> 
> 
> Compard to your 20000 results you can see the smoothing in the low end at 6000, just what Bob was talking about. 20000 looks too high.
> 
> John



Yes.....I'm sticking with 6000 for now. It is even better than the default 5000. I tried several right up to 20,000 to see what results it gave. I also tried several between 5000 and 6000 and 6000 is the best I've found so far. It's funny that even at 5950, I get odd notes that don't show up at 5000 or 6000.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14446338
> 
> 
> Yes.....I'm sticking with 6000 for now. It is even better than the default 5000. I tried several right up to 20,000 to see what results it gave. I also tried several between 5000 and 6000 and 6000 is the best I've found so far. It's funny that even at 5950, I get odd notes that don't show up at 5000 or 6000.



I did some new measurements at 12000 and followed Bob's advice about saving and write protecting these files and then did some testing. The sound was very detailed and LFE seemed a little stronger but better. Overall, I can't say it has sounded better. Will stay with this for a while anyway.

John


----------



## diamar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14431345
> 
> 
> The "earthquake" problem was a bug that is fixed in V1.2.5.
> 
> 
> You should not be using V1.2.6, that "test" version has problems.
> 
> 
> I think it is quite likely that your high degree of ambient noise in the low bass (street noise) is what's messing things up for you here. (And trying V1.2.6 probably just made things worse.)
> 
> 
> Have you tried setting the Setup / Speaker Calibration / Noise Level and also the volume knob on your subwoofer properly? You may need to target a higher SPL for those for the moment to help get cleaner Measurements -- perhaps 80dB instead of 75dB.
> 
> 
> Again the process for this is:
> 
> 
> _[...snip...]_
> 
> 
> When you are happy your Setup menu stuff is correct after the Upload, be sure to do a Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture those values so that you don't accidentally mess them up later by doing a Reload.
> 
> --Bob



The 80dB effort didn't seem to do much. I still had lots of measurement errors, and my sub still doesn't really look like a sub. And I still have huge earthquakes when the sub kicks in.


There's evidently some giant room problem around 200Hz and between 1k and 5k. ARC fixes a lot of stuff (right front didn't get corrected in this version as well as it had before -- which leads me to believe that ambient room noise is a big factor). But the sub is still anemic.


It's hard for me to know how much of this room stuff will get fixed when construction is done and I have permanent windows that shut out most of the background noise. But my charts resemble Trevlan's early sub problems (at the low end, see http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=15317 ). I suspect I need to get a beefier subwoofer.


Is there anything about this that indicates it might be a problem with ARC? Or is it pretty clearly environment and/or subwoofer?


----------



## J. FRICANO

Hello everyone,

If I re aim my surround speakers, NHT 2.5's, should I re-measure with ARC? These speakers are on brackets, mounted on the back wall behind the listening position about 26" above ear level at the tweeter, and 1' behind. They were firing at about 20 degrees to the side walls and I was going to move them to 45 degrees. Any suggestions?

Also Bob mentions that you should "Write Protect" ARC files for comparison purposes. How is this done? I am sure I will feel stupid after your response, but it is not "clicking" in my head. I am running Windows XP, SP2.

Thank you guys so much for all of the help you provide for this amazing piece of gear, D2 with ARC. John.


----------



## jlwine

Thanks Bob,


I have tried just about every option I can think of. Currently the Info screen under the "7" button the input and output the same 1920x1080i 59.??this is also the native res of my Sony xbr4 LCD.

I have tried component (from source to Anthem to TV) and it is much better but still considerable worse than going to the tv directly. I have now also tried Toshiba HD DVD player with the same results.

I have attached an image "direct" of what it looks like when I go straight to the tv and another image "Anthem" that goes through the Anthem. Ignore the lines running from top to bottom that is just a result of the picture--it is the wavy lines on the solidly colored wall in the background I am talking about.

I will try and get the rest of your questions answered. BTW, these wavy lines appear even if you take color saturation down to the point of it being black and white.


Going component from the source to the Anthem and then HDMI to the TV is also much better


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/14446775
> 
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> If I re aim my surround speakers, NHT 2.5's, should I re-measure with ARC? These speakers are on brackets, mounted on the back wall behind the listening position about 26" above ear level at the tweeter, and 1' behind. They were firing at about 20 degrees to the side walls and I was going to move them to 45 degrees. Any suggestions?
> 
> Also Bob mentions that you should "Write Protect" ARC files for comparison purposes. How is this done? I am sure I will feel stupid after your response, but it is not "clicking" in my head. I am running Windows XP, SP2.
> 
> Thank you guys so much for all of the help you provide for this amazing piece of gear, D2 with ARC. John.



Yes, do a remeasurment. Write protect by right clicking on the file, and checking off "Read only". This will prevent changes from occurring if you open the file up and fiddle with it, ie, do target changes or calculations.

John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/14446775
> 
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> If I re aim my surround speakers, NHT 2.5's, should I re-measure with ARC? These speakers are on brackets, mounted on the back wall behind the listening position about 26" above ear level at the tweeter, and 1' behind. They were firing at about 20 degrees to the side walls and I was going to move them to 45 degrees. Any suggestions?
> 
> Also Bob mentions that you should "Write Protect" ARC files for comparison purposes. How is this done? I am sure I will feel stupid after your response, but it is not "clicking" in my head. I am running Windows XP, SP2.
> 
> Thank you guys so much for all of the help you provide for this amazing piece of gear, D2 with ARC. John.



John:


With regards to write protect, all I've done is saved my initial room measurements as a seperate file. I then use it to try tweaking the calculations. ie., I open up the file, try playing with the various targets by pressing the "targets" tab, and then press the "calculate" tab. If the results look good, I'll do a "save as" to not overwrite the initial default calculated file. If you want to try one of the files containing the resulting curves you've obtained, plug in your pre/pro and press the "upload" tab while you are in the file you want to load. Read only or write protect can be done by right clicking on the file and it will be under "properties", so you don't mistakenly overwrite your initial setting or any other ones you wish to protect.


Hope this helps.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diamar* /forum/post/14446760
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> Is there anything about this that indicates it might be a problem with ARC? Or is it pretty clearly environment and/or subwoofer?



Looking at ARC measurement it looks like that your center channel has lost its medium speaker. Center channel is usually setup for voice and should be cover between ~1khz and ~6khz and you have a big dip at 2khz.


----------



## tranle

Does anybody knows if the usb microphone use with the ARC system can be use for something else like a normal microphone. With application like the trueRTA or just to calibrate your pc speakers ?


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/14447108
> 
> 
> Does anybody knows if the usb microphone use with the ARC system can be use for something else like a normal microphone. With application like the trueRTA or just to calibrate your pc speakers ?



Usable but not useful. The calibration file that makes the microphone provide flat/reliable information is encrypted for use by ARC. Use of the mic with any other system will be unpredictable unless you can calibrate it against a standard.


----------



## diamar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/14447090
> 
> 
> Looking at ARC measurement it looks like that your center channel has lost its medium speaker. Center channel is usually setup for voice and should be cover between ~1khz and ~6khz and you have a big dip at 2khz.



Yes, I noticed the huge hole in the Center channel too. Am trying to look determine if it's a cable, a damaged speaker, or an installation issue. I recently put the theater back in after a year-long remodel, and noticed even before ARC that something sounded wrong with the center.


----------



## art4mad

I'm trying to figure out how to watch a Blu-Ray movie in 1080/24p resolution through the Anthem D2. Here's the setup:


Panny BD-50 > D2 > Marantz 15S1 1080p projector all via HDMI


I have to set the DB-50's 24p Output to "On", which outputs 24p sources in 24p as they are.


My question is with the D2's output resolution. If I have this set to "auto" will it automatically switch to 1920x1080p/24 when I have a 24p disk, or do I need to go into the setup menu and change it to this resolution every time I want to watch a 24p film source disk as opposed to say a disk containing an HD TV show like "Lost", which is video and probably should be in 1920x1080p/60? Perhaps there is a quick way to switch between resolution settings using a pre-programmed output formats for the same source?


Also, if anyone is familiar with using projectors with the D2, do I also need to go into the projector's menu and change the resolution on it to 1920x1080p/24?


Thanks for any help anyone can give me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *art4mad* /forum/post/14447481
> 
> 
> I'm trying to figure out how to watch a Blu-Ray movie in 1080/24p resolution through the Anthem D2. Here's the setup:
> 
> 
> Panny BD-50 > D2 > Marantz 15S1 1080p projector all via HDMI
> 
> 
> I have to set the DB-50's 24p Output to "On", which outputs 24p sources in 24p as they are.
> 
> 
> My question is with the D2's output resolution. If I have this set to "auto" will it automatically switch to 1920x1080p/24 when I have a 24p disk, or do I need to go into the setup menu and change it to this resolution every time I want to watch a 24p film source disk as opposed to say a disk containing an HD TV show like "Lost", which is video and probably should be in 1920x1080p/60? Perhaps there is a quick way to switch between resolution settings using a pre-programmed output formats for the same source?
> 
> 
> Also, if anyone is familiar with using projectors with the D2, do I also need to go into the projector's menu and change the resolution on it to 1920x1080p/24?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help anyone can give me.



No the "Auto" setting in the D2 Video Output configuration is not for changing its output frame rate.


You have two choices for getting /24 out of the D2. Most folks are using one of the separate Video Output configurations. So they have one Video Output set for 1080p/60 and another for 1080p/24. Then they set up two Sources in the D2, both from the player, but using the different Video Output configurations. They select the /24 source when they know they are playing /24 content -- to keep things judder free.


The /60 source will work when they are playing /24 or /60 content although when playing /24 content it will include judder.


The advantage of doing things this way is that the HDMI handshake goes a bit faster.


------------------------------


The alternative approach is to use the Frame Lock = Auto feature in Video Source Adjust / Output for that source. That will cause the frame rate of the Video Output to track that of the video currently coming in from that source. This is described in the manual.


------------------------------


Please note that the Anthem does not yet properly extract the /24 content from film-based input which has been raised to /60 by the telecine process.


So, for example, if you play a standard DVD (480i/60 input) and tell the D2 to produce 1080p/24 output that WILL NOT WORK CORRECTLY at the moment, even if the DVD you are playing is film-based content. You will get an output video stream that stutters. You must use /60 output instead. Fixing this is "on the list" at Anthem but they haven't done it yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14447009
> 
> 
> Yes, do a remeasurment. Write protect by right clicking on the file, and checking off "Read only". This will prevent changes from occurring if you open the file up and fiddle with it, ie, do target changes or calculations.
> 
> John



To Write Protect a file in Windows, right-click on the file, select Properties from the pop-up menu that appears, click on the "Read Only" check box, and then click on Apply to make it so. Then click OK to dismiss the Properties box.


To Write Enable a file, do the same thing but clear the "Read Only" check box.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/14446775
> 
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> If I re aim my surround speakers, NHT 2.5's, should I re-measure with ARC? These speakers are on brackets, mounted on the back wall behind the listening position about 26" above ear level at the tweeter, and 1' behind. They were firing at about 20 degrees to the side walls and I was going to move them to 45 degrees. Any suggestions?
> 
> Also Bob mentions that you should "Write Protect" ARC files for comparison purposes. How is this done? I am sure I will feel stupid after your response, but it is not "clicking" in my head. I am running Windows XP, SP2.
> 
> Thank you guys so much for all of the help you provide for this amazing piece of gear, D2 with ARC. John.



Yes if you re-position or re-aim your speakers you should re-Measure with ARC, just as if you make any other change that might reasonably be expected to impact the audio from the speakers -- such as adding curtains.


For Write Protecting files in Windows, see my post just above.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/14447108
> 
> 
> Does anybody knows if the usb microphone use with the ARC system can be use for something else like a normal microphone. With application like the trueRTA or just to calibrate your pc speakers ?



You can use it to record yourself singing I suppose.


As far as Windows is concerned it is just another USB microphone. It identifies itself to the USB system as an "ARC Microphone". As long as your audio input application is not picky about that ID, you can do anything you want to with it.


But Anthem also provides a special file which contains the carefully measured calibration details for that specific microphone. ARC uses that file to insure it is getting accurate readings from the microphone.


No other calibration tool will be able to use that file, so you will get the raw results from the microphone instead.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlwine* /forum/post/14446972
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> I have tried just about every option I can think of. Currently the Info screen under the "7" button the input and output the same 1920x1080i 59.??this is also the native res of my Sony xbr4 LCD.
> 
> I have tried component (from source to Anthem to TV) and it is much better but still considerable worse than going to the tv directly. I have now also tried Toshiba HD DVD player with the same results.
> 
> I have attached an image "direct" of what it looks like when I go straight to the tv and another image "Anthem" that goes through the Anthem. Ignore the lines running from top to bottom that is just a result of the picture--it is the wavy lines on the solidly colored wall in the background I am talking about.
> 
> I will try and get the rest of your questions answered. BTW, these wavy lines appear even if you take color saturation down to the point of it being black and white.
> 
> 
> Going component from the source to the Anthem and then HDMI to the TV is also much better



Let me see what you are using for settings and we'll go from there.


You could have a faulty video board, but what you are seeing is more than likely just a bad video calibration setup. This stuff can be confusing, so let's just take it a step at a time.


The first thing I need is for you to report all those settings and status values I asked for. Don't assume I know any of the values, report all of it. We'll hone in on the important parts right away, but first I want to make sure you are not doing something silly like using the Zoom option in Scale Out.


Also, let me know what firmware version you have installed in the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diamar* /forum/post/14446760
> 
> 
> Is there anything about this that indicates it might be a problem with ARC? Or is it pretty clearly environment and/or subwoofer?



I think your problem is the ambient room noise, although I agree it looks like your center speaker may have a faulty mid-range driver.


The 200Hz peaks could be street noise for example.


What are the specs on you sub? My guess would be that it is rated down to only 30Hz.


There may not be much you can do until the ambient noise problem is cured.


One possibility is to try a configuration without the Center speaker, and another without BOTH the Center speaker and the subwoofer just to satisfy yourself that ARC can produce useful results even given your ambient noise environment.


But I think ARC is getting confused as to the room modes due to the noise.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

I was wondering how many measurements people do on avereage? How far apart should the areas be?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I do 5, separated by 30" each. The outer two positions are angled in toward the screen a bit.

--Bob


----------



## learflyer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14441674
> 
> 
> You can download V1.33 now from the Anthem public downloads page. Be sure to follow the instructions carefully.
> 
> 
> You will need to save your Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file (using Live Video Settings Editor). Also, make sure you have your Setup menu settings saved in Saved User and/or Installer Settings. You can use the Front Panel display for that. Then Reload Factory settings before doing the firmware install. Make sure you don't have any powered HDMI connections during the install (I suggest you remove power from everything else to be sure).
> 
> 
> After the Firmware install you Reload your Saved User Settings, and then restore your Video Source Adjust menu from the PC file (again using Live Video Settings Editor), and finally do the power down, power up, wait 30 seconds and power down cycle to complete things.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Thanks again for your help, I loaded v1.33 with no problems at all. As you suggested this restored my on screen setup menus. My original settings are all restored. Didn't have time to run ARC so will try that over the weekend.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14448819
> 
> 
> I do 5, separated by 30" each. The outer two positions are angled in toward the screen a bit.
> 
> --Bob



Bob


Could you clarify the last sentance? Isn't the microphone omnidirectional in it's vertical position?


Mike


----------



## Brucemck2

I'm considering replacing a Denon 4308 in a bedroom setup with a D2.


This setup is used a lot by my Wife, and she'll not be happy if I make her learn how to use a different remote control. Her alarm clock would still be flashing 12:00 if I didn't set it up










So my question: will the remote control that controls a Hughes HR10-250 DirecTV Tivo unit control the volume on a D2? (It has no "learning" capability, hence the question.)


A link to a picture: http://www.weaknees.com/images/tivo_...ivo_remote.jpg 


If "yes" I'm a buyer and if "no" I'll first have to attempt to create harmony with a Harmony.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14449889
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Could you clarify the last sentance? Isn't the microphone omnidirectional in it's vertical position?
> 
> 
> Mike



The mic LOCATIONS are angled in. The mic itself is still pointed straight up.


The mic is pointed straight up in all 5 positions (and set at seated ear height). My positions are:


#4...........................#5

.....\\......................./

...... #2 -- #1 -- #3


Position #1 is on the center axis of the screen at the primary listening distance. Positions #2 and #3 are on a straight line with #1, set at right angles to that center axis line. They are spaced 30" either side of #1.


Positions #4 and #5 are 30" from #2 and #3 respectively, but positioned closer to the screen. The line from #2 to #4 makes about a 30 to 45 degree angle with the straight line through #2, #1, and #3. Position #5 is set symmetrically on the other side.


(Positions #2, #1, and #3 are along a sofa, and positions #4 and #5 are outside the arms of that sofa and nearer the front edge of the sofa -- i.e., closer to the screen.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *learflyer* /forum/post/14449477
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your help, I loaded v1.33 with no problems at all. As you suggested this restored my on screen setup menus. My original settings are all restored. Didn't have time to run ARC so will try that over the weekend.



Cool! Glad it worked for you. Have fun with your new ARC!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brucemck2* /forum/post/14450404
> 
> 
> I'm considering replacing a Denon 4308 in a bedroom setup with a D2.
> 
> 
> This setup is used a lot by my Wife, and she'll not be happy if I make her learn how to use a different remote control. Her alarm clock would still be flashing 12:00 if I didn't set it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my question: will the remote control that controls a Hughes HR10-250 DirecTV Tivo unit control the volume on a D2? (It has no "learning" capability, hence the question.)
> 
> 
> A link to a picture: http://www.weaknees.com/images/tivo_...ivo_remote.jpg
> 
> 
> If "yes" I'm a buyer and if "no" I'll first have to attempt to create harmony with a Harmony.



I'd be very surprised if the Anthem codes are included in the set of codes pre-programmed into your DirecTivo's remote. Anthem is not on the radar of consumer electronics companies.


But I suppose it could happen, so I'll have to let a DirecTivo owner respond.


In any event, a lot of folks using the Anthem with the DirecTivo (or other set top boxes) find the Logitech Harmony remotes work well to keep things down to just one relatively simple remote.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

I'm sure I could look in the manual, but I'm at work! I know the Anthem remote is programmable. If I can get the discrete codes online for my Lutron Grafik Eye lighting system can I directly punch the code into the Anthem remote to make it control the lighting? I'm just waiting to see what new remotes are coming out - looks like URC just announced the MX-450, I'm trying to figure out how that's different from the MX-810. In the meantime, the Anthem remote works fine - in addition to the other 10 remotes!


----------



## yacht422

bob: re your mic placements. considering that some of us have two rows of seating, what would be the proper placements , allowing for an eight inch rear platform?

i have disconnected arc from my system, as i continually get front speaker measurements starting at 75 db, going up to 85 db, all w/i the first 100hz. this washes the base out! i reloaded the original professionally derived levels, x-overs etc, and the sound is much fuller.

i have been doing other things, and not gotten into the arc thing , but will, probably post olympics.

i have yet to figure out how to send my charts to the forum, but that is my problem with windows, i suppose.

walt


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14448571
> 
> 
> Yes if you re-position or re-aim your speakers you should re-Measure with ARC, just as if you make any other change that might reasonably be expected to impact the audio from the speakers -- such as adding curtains.
> 
> 
> For Write Protecting files in Windows, see my post just above.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you very much Bob for your guidance. John.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14453066
> 
> 
> bob: re your mic placements. considering that some of us have two rows of seating, what would be the proper placements , allowing for an eight inch rear platform?
> 
> i have disconnected arc from my system, as i continually get front speaker measurements starting at 75 db, going up to 85 db, all w/i the first 100hz. this washes the base out! i reloaded the original professionally derived levels, x-overs etc, and the sound is much fuller.
> 
> i have been doing other things, and not gotten into the arc thing , but will, probably post olympics.
> 
> i have yet to figure out how to send my charts to the forum, but that is my problem with windows, i suppose.
> 
> walt



I too have 2 rows of seats. The idea with ARC is to average all 5 or more positions. Just take a reading from all seats 1 foot from the back of the chair at ear height or a few inches higher.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14454606
> 
> 
> I too have 2 rows of seats. The idea with ARC is to average all 5 or more positions. Just take a reading from all seats 1 foot from the back of the chair at ear height or a few inches higher.



I think that's a perfectly reasonable way to do it.


It's not really clear how sensitive ARC is to mic placement (given that you stay within the spacing guidelines and alternate either side of center). Since you are, in essence, sampling the room I like the idea of taking some samples outside the left and right end seats and also a little forward so that, essentially, you are capturing the entire seating area with the layout of mics -- including if people sit up or lean forward in the seats.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14453066
> 
> 
> bob: re your mic placements. considering that some of us have two rows of seating, what would be the proper placements , allowing for an eight inch rear platform?
> 
> i have disconnected arc from my system, as i continually get front speaker measurements starting at 75 db, going up to 85 db, all w/i the first 100hz. this washes the base out! i reloaded the original professionally derived levels, x-overs etc, and the sound is much fuller.
> 
> i have been doing other things, and not gotten into the arc thing , but will, probably post olympics.
> 
> i have yet to figure out how to send my charts to the forum, but that is my problem with windows, i suppose.
> 
> walt



We'll take a look at your charts when you get a handle on how to post them, but keep in mind that if ARC is showing variation like that in your Measured curves, then that really does reflect what is going on (presuming you are taking the Measurements correctly). ARC will work to smooth that out for you.


If you've gotten used to listening to audio containing significant room response issues, then the ARC results may sound different, but they bass certainly shouldn't sound washed out.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14452297
> 
> 
> I'm sure I could look in the manual, but I'm at work! I know the Anthem remote is programmable. If I can get the discrete codes online for my Lutron Grafik Eye lighting system can I directly punch the code into the Anthem remote to make it control the lighting? I'm just waiting to see what new remotes are coming out - looks like URC just announced the MX-450, I'm trying to figure out how that's different from the MX-810. In the meantime, the Anthem remote works fine - in addition to the other 10 remotes!



The Anthem remote can "learn" commands -- basically copying them into memory using the IR from another remote. But there's no way to enter a numeric code sequence representing a command. See Section 5 of the Manual.


Generally speaking you will likely be happier using a REAL programmable remote like the URC or Harmony products.

--Bob


----------



## bigsac65

Slightly off subject I have been offered a very good deal on a new AVM40 with arc I don't need video conversion; so my question is will the avm40 pass through 1080p/24 without problems.I could not find any thing on Anthems web site.

Any input would be appreciated.

Bigsac.


----------



## dweltman

Well, my Oppo 980 arrived this morning. A bit of confusion until I realized that 720 was the only resolution that would allow transmission of 5 channels PCM from an SACD (not 1080).


So I am comparing MC SACD from an Esoteric DV-50 Analog Direct to the D2 vs. Oppo 980 DSD/PCM conversion to 88.2/24 to the D2 with ARC enabled. And my family is out of town until tomorrow afternoon. I think audiophiles live for these weekends


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14457803
> 
> 
> Well, my Oppo 980 arrived this morning. A bit of confusion until I realized that 720 was the only resolution that would allow transmission of 5 channels PCM from an SACD (not 1080).



Really? I wonder why. Either 720p or 1080i/p *SHOULD* work.


HDMI audio is embedded inside the video signal and is limited to a fraction of the video bandwidth. As it turns out, HDMI 480i and 480p don't allow enough audio bandwidth for the high-bandwidth multi-channel LPCM from an SACD to fit. But anything 720p or higher should work.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigsac65* /forum/post/14457377
> 
> 
> Slightly off subject I have been offered a very good deal on a new AVM40 with arc I don't need video conversion; so my question is will the avm40 pass through 1080p/24 without problems.I could not find any thing on Anthems web site.
> 
> Any input would be appreciated.
> 
> Bigsac.



The AVM-40 is spec'ed up to 1080p/60 for HDMI video in/out so it certainly should be able to handle 1080p/24. And there are no warnings about 1080p/24 in the updated manual. But we've had very few posters in this thread who are using the AVM-40 so I can't be sure.


If you send an email to Anthem tech support during business hours (address in the first post of this thread), you will likely get a quick response.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

Bob:


I have the reversed question to one recently posed. How would you do the ARC measurements if you "only" cared about the person sitting in the sweet spot










Still do 5 measurements? Would you still spread 5 out laterally like you have previously mentioned? Or maybe one in front and behind the sweet spot?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14457803
> 
> 
> Well, my Oppo 980 arrived this morning. A bit of confusion until I realized that 720 was the only resolution that would allow transmission of 5 channels PCM from an SACD (not 1080).
> 
> 
> So I am comparing MC SACD from an Esoteric DV-50 Analog Direct to the D2 vs. Oppo 980 DSD/PCM conversion to 88.2/24 to the D2 with ARC enabled. And my family is out of town until tomorrow afternoon. I think audiophiles live for these weekends



I also own the oppo 980h, and unless I misunderstand, it should pass the sacd signal in any of the 'hi-def' resolutions- 720p,1080i/p. But it will not work in 480i/p, which means I have to remember to switch the resolution back and forth when switching from dvd to sacd and back.

Please look at page 22 of the oppo manual for the set-up to hdmi v 1.1 , which is what the D2 supports, and use the settings highlighted in the oppo manual. *Set the oppo 'down mix' to 5.1.* Even if you have a 7.1 speaker set-up the D2 only accepts 5.1 in. The D2 will matrix the other rear channels if you are using a DSP like dolby plIIx or dts neo. This is a little confusing, at least it was to me, but trust me,use only 5.1.

Since you have some time to play with your system this week-end you may want to try seeing (hearing) what analog dsp with ARC sounds from your cdp.

I use an ayre cx-7e and found that it sounded better for cd's (it doesn't play sacd or dvd-a) than the oppo, and that the ayre sounded best in my system using analog dsp with ARC on. It allows the ayre to use its dac's and the D2 to use the magic of ARC to control the room and speaker shortcomings.

Have fun tweaking!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14458070
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I have the reversed question to one recently posed. How would you do the ARC measurements if you "only" cared about the person sitting in the sweet spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still do 5 measurements? Would you still spread 5 out laterally like you have previously mentioned? Or maybe one in front and behind the sweet spot?



It is absolutely vital that you spread out the (minimum) 5 ARC mic positions (and alternate either side of center).


It is the variation that ARC hears between those positions that allows it to distinguish between room response and the inherent capabilities of each speaker.


The mic positions need to be separated by at least 24" from each other for ARC to do its job.


We haven't really compared mic layouts enough here to know which work best. Another layout I've considered, but haven't tried, is a box layout:


...#2.................#3...


.............#1..............


...#4.................#5...


But I worry that this one might be biased a bit if #4 and #5 are too far behind the side surround speakers or too close to the rear speakers. Anyway, it's worth a try and would seem to be ideal for securing the best results for the #1 position.


--Bob


----------



## dweltman

Thanks, you have some helpful info there.


My 980 came with the current firmware. It has no problem playing Roxy Music Avalon (I am presuming a 5.1 SACD), but seems to be reverting to Stereo whenever I put on a classical SACD (presumably 5.0). I wonder if I should try a reload the firmware with the 5.0 patch (even though they did it at the factory). I have my feelers out on the Opp thread...


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14458070
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I have the reversed question to one recently posed. How would you do the ARC measurements if you "only" cared about the person sitting in the sweet spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still do 5 measurements? Would you still spread 5 out laterally like you have previously mentioned? Or maybe one in front and behind the sweet spot?



When ARC was first released many of the early adopters tried using mic positions close to the main listening position. Logically, since I am the main user of the D2, and I sit in the same seat, the ARC would work best if I cluster the 5 mic positions around my sitting position. It didn't work! The ARC works much better to tame the room and blend the sub with the speakers if you make your mic positions at least 2' apart. Start at your prime listening position, then 2 feet or more to one side, then 2'+ to the other side, then 2'+ outside the second position, then 2'+outside the third. For example:

#5---#3---#1---#2---#4


Or #5--- #1--- #4

----- #3--- #2---

Make sure that the mic is pointing straight towards the cieling, and that the mic height is the same. The mic can be moved forward or back in the room, but the #1 reading needs to be at the main listening position, the mic must be pointed straight up, the mic height should be constant, and the mic needs to be atleast 2 feet apart.

Its tempting to put all 5 positions close to the #1, but ARC works better if you allow atleast 2' between them.


----------



## dweltman

This may be silly, but how have people created jpgs of their graphs? Normally one can right click and "save as", but I don't seem to have that option with the ARC page.


thanks, dave


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14458211
> 
> 
> When ARC was first released many of the early adopters tried using mic positions close to the main listening position. Logically, since I am the main user of the D2, and I sit in the same seat, the ARC would work best if I cluster the 5 mic positions around my sitting position. It didn't work! The ARC works much better to tame the room and blend the sub with the speakers if you make your mic positions at least 2' apart. Start at your prime listening position, then 2 feet or more to one side, then 2'+ to the other side, then 2'+ outside the second position, then 2'+outside the third. For example:
> 
> #5---#3---#1---#2---#4
> 
> 
> Or #5--- #1--- #5
> 
> #3--- #2---
> 
> Make sure that the mic is pointing straight towards the cieling, and that the mic height is the same. The mic can be moved forward or back in the room, but the #1 reading needs to be at the main listening position, the mic must be pointed straight up, the mic height should be constant, and the mic needs to be atleast 2 feet apart.
> 
> Its tempting to put all 5 positions close to the #1, but ARC works better if you allow atleast 2' between them.




Thanks for your advice (and Bob always) on the 980 and the ARC. I am currently running on the first mike setup you show, which is what Bob has advocated in the past. I was curious about:



------------5-------------


-3----------1-----------2-


------------4-------------


and also the "box" setup Bob just described


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14447021
> 
> 
> John:
> 
> 
> With regards to write protect, all I've done is saved my initial room measurements as a seperate file. I then use it to try tweaking the calculations. ie., I open up the file, try playing with the various targets by pressing the "targets" tab, and then press the "calculate" tab. If the results look good, I'll do a "save as" to not overwrite the initial default calculated file. If you want to try one of the files containing the resulting curves you've obtained, plug in your pre/pro and press the "upload" tab while you are in the file you want to load. Read only or write protect can be done by right clicking on the file and it will be under "properties", so you don't mistakenly overwrite your initial setting or any other ones you wish to protect.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.



Thank you!

It was not clear to me because I saved the ARC Measurements to my desktop and was trying to right click on the "File" tab within the program to no avail. After being unsuccessful I just used the calculated results and uploaded to the D2. Afterward I tried just right clicking the desktop shortcut without opening it and Lo and Behold the options were available to me! Guess I will follow the write protect advice next time I do a new set of measurements.

Thank you again, All, for your help, John.


----------



## J. FRICANO

Hello Bob,

Here are my ARC graphs. What do you think?

My ARC Crossovers are; Room Gain 2.199834(Movie) 2.123138(Music)

L/R Front...40 L/R Surround...65 Center..50 Sub...105,(Movie)

Same crossovers for music minus the center channel which I did not use.

 

Doc1.doc 96.5k . file

 

Doc3.doc 97.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14458290
> 
> 
> ------------5-------------
> 
> 
> -3----------1-----------2-
> 
> 
> ------------4-------------



The problem with this one is that #4 and #5 don't alternate either side of center. Now I've no idea how crucial that is to the assumptions built into ARC's calculations, but it's something to keep in mind.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/14459026
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> Here are my ARC graphs. What do you think?
> 
> My ARC Crossovers are; Room Gain 2.199834(Movie) 2.123138(Music)
> 
> L/R Front...40 L/R Surround...65 Center..50 Sub...105,(Movie)
> 
> Same crossovers for music minus the center channel which I did not use.



Those curves look fine and the resulting sound should be quite good!


Do you have an acoustically treated room? It looks like ARC found somewhat less inherent Room Gain in your room than many of the charts we have seen here (the "hump" in the Target and Calculated curves near the crossover). This is not a problem -- I'm just curious about what might be the cause.


Your subwoofer looks like it is probably rated down to 30Hz or 26Hz, which is also fine, but not quite as deep as some of the servo-assisted subs people have been reporting here. Again, I wouldn't worry about that, you are only down a little at 20Hz. You won't make the floor bounce like DRHANKZ does with his "low rider" style floor thumpers, but you ALSO won't have to deal with problems in some movies that have excess sub-sonic energy in the LFE that they simply forgot to filter out!


Your room (or speakers) look like they might be a little "bright" around 10KHz, so if you want to experiment with a 12KHz target that could be fun. Unlike most of the curves we've seen here your Measurements are actually a little hot out there in the front speakers. It will be interesting to see if you hear a difference though since your residuals out there are not large.


You've got a pretty sizable room mode at 40Hz that ARC is pulling back into line. The result may be that your initial impression is that explosions sound a little thin at first since they tend to run between 30 and 50Hz (see your sub and LF/RF Measured curves). But your bass should sound quite a bit tighter across the board -- and much more natural. I suggest you take some time to get used to these results and I think you will like them a lot.

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

If I reposition my sub would I need to rerun ARC?


I am going to try my 2nd option with the sub slipped in between the front left and center.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14459468
> 
> 
> If I reposition my sub would I need to rerun ARC?
> 
> 
> I am going to try my 2nd option with the sub slipped in between the front left and center.



ABSOLUTELY. Even if you just turn it in place or only move it a few inches.


The way the sub couples to the room is very sensitive to placement.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

As I read reviews of various HD movies and assessments of the sound quality,

I am now thinking that without ARC, many of these reviews are irrelevant. Not in a snobby way, but what they hear may be quite diff from what, we who have ARC, hear. For instance, prior to ARC, I thought some movies had very deep bass and now with ARC, some of these loud scenes have settled down but others that were anemic are now very good. A review from me 4 weeks ago would not be accurate and so it may be for many reviewer. Just a thought as I read reviews of Transformers in Blu-ray with TrueHD vs. HD DVD with DD+.

John


----------



## dweltman

red curve be ugly...

 

Doc1.doc 170.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14459539
> 
> 
> red curve be ugly...



Nah, it's not that bad!










Actually you've only got a max Measured swing of 8dB in everything except the Center speaker -- where you've got a 14dB swing below 100Hz. It looks like ARC has all of that well in hand.


I take it you don't have a subwoofer yet.


Now ARC is Targeting your calibrated setup at around 63dB which is a little low. Did you go through the exercise to set Noise Level to 75dB prior to taking the ARC Measurements? It's no big deal since obviously you can just turn the Main Volume up when playing stuff, but raising ARC's test sweep tones a bit may give you Measurements that pick up a bit more of what your room is doing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14459522
> 
> 
> As I read reviews of various HD movies and assessments of the sound quality,
> 
> I am now thinking that without ARC, many of these reviews are irrelevant. Not in a snobby way, but what they hear may be quite diff from what, we who have ARC, hear. For instance, prior to ARC, I thought some movies had very deep bass and now with ARC, some of these loud scenes have settled down but others that were anemic are now very good. A review from me 4 weeks ago would not be accurate and so it may be for many reviewer. Just a thought as I read reviews of Transformers in Blu-ray with TrueHD vs. HD DVD with DD+.
> 
> John



This is quite true.


Although there are objective ways to reveal the quality of someone's video setup (what resolution display, what display technology, what calibration tools were used?) there's nothing near as good a way to judge the quality of a reviewer's audio setup. Most audio setups, in my opinion, involve a lot more subjective compromises than happen with good video setups.


There are, of course, other ways people can get an audio result as good as what ARC seems to be giving us. But the really cool thing about ARC is that it is very inexpensive, and that you don't have to be an acoustical engineer to make it yield great results. You just have to have the patience to take the Measurements and experiment with speaker positioning, etc., if you find some problems. In fact, a user can get great audio results with ARC even if he doesn't have the experience to get great video results using common video calibration tools. That's a breakthrough technology in my opinion.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem has cleaned up the download links for the V1.3x Operating Manuals for the D2, AVM-40, and AVM-50.


The latest download links on the public download pages yield a version dated Aug 13, 2008. Based on byte count these appear to be identical to the Aug 8, versions that were previously found on the password protected download page.


In addition, Anthem has removed the outdated links to the prior, separate versions of the AVM-40 and AVM-50 manuals. All of their AVM manual download links now yield the new, combo AVM40/50 manual which was previously only found included as part of the ARC download kit.


The D2 manual: http://www.sonicfrontiers.com/HTML/P...ual/D2_OM.html 


The AVM40/50 combo manual: http://www.anthemAV.com/NewSitev2.0/...OwnersMan.html 


ARC users should refer to Section 3.15 in these manuals for information on setup and use of ARC.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14459364
> 
> 
> You won't make the floor bounce like DRHANKZ does with his "low rider" style floor thumpers,
> 
> --Bob



I can't wait to see what ARC does with my down to *1Hz* Sub Woofers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14460339
> 
> 
> I can't wait to see what ARC does with my down to *1Hz* Sub Woofers



Finally caught the ARC upgrade bug, have you?










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14458254
> 
> 
> This may be silly, but how have people created jpgs of their graphs? Normally one can right click and "save as", but I don't seem to have that option with the ARC page.
> 
> 
> thanks, dave



Look in Windows Help for the keyboard combo that does a Screen Capture Active Window. It'll be something like Shift-Alt-PrintScreen or the like. That key combo captures the visible portion of the current active window into the clipboard.


You can then paste it into something like Windows Paint (bundled with Windows) and then Save As to get a file. I suggest you pick JPEG as the format in the Save As to make the file smaller.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/14434907
> 
> 
> Due to design limitations because they send SACD over HDMI the Oppo 983 does not send 480i over HDMI.
> 
> I have compared component 480i and HDMI 1080i and 1080p from the 983 to the D2 and they all look the same.
> 
> 
> Stew



I have used various Oppos as well and I have found that sending 480i looks a lot nicer than anything else.


----------



## mlbrand

Here are my ARC charts from my first measurement session on June 27th, with v 1.2.2. I am still using this measurement, but will be getting new subs in a week, and will upgrade ARC and re-measure then.


I have to say that I am very pleased with how ARC sounds in my system. Sound quality definitely improved, most noticeably with tighter bass, and a more articulate and more defined sound to all audio. A very worthwhile upgrade!










Any comments on my measurements?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14461002
> 
> 
> Finally caught the ARC upgrade bug, have you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I have had the bug since the beginning - but I don't

have one yet. I'll let you professional debuggers get

it all fixed up










I'm sure how ARC will deal with my (6) LFE channels

will still be a MYSTERY. It certainly does not expect

that.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14461799
> 
> 
> I have had the bug since the beginning - but I don't
> 
> have one yet. I'll let you professional debuggers get
> 
> it all fixed up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure how ARC will deal with my (6) LFE channels
> 
> will still be a MYSTERY. It certainly does not expect
> 
> that.



It does a pretty good job with my 4 LFE channels so I'm sure it'll be fine with your 6.


----------



## The Bogg

Sorry for the OT post, but I thought some of you guys might be interested. I, and a few others with projector-screen combos, have been looking for a small, relatively cheap monitor to use when making adjustments on the D2 instead of firing up the projector each time. Levesque uses a small car video screen, some other people use other solutions. Best Buy just put out a 15" 16:9 lcd tv by Insignia which just fits into the space I had. It takes hdmi, component, and most importantly for me - svideo. It only cost $180 Canadian.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/14461781
> 
> 
> Here are my ARC charts from my first measurement session on June 27th, with v 1.2.2. I am still using this measurement, but will be getting new subs in a week, and will upgrade ARC and re-measure then.
> 
> 
> I have to say that I am very pleased with how ARC sounds in my system. Sound quality definitely improved, most noticeably with tighter bass, and a more articulate and more defined sound to all audio. A very worthwhile upgrade!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any comments on my measurements?



How come your sub's response drops off at 40 hertz? Is your subwoofer crossover set at a low level?


----------



## barhoram

Anyone useing ARC witha Buttkicker setup?? I'm feeding my Velodyne sub via the XLR output and have RCA sub output #1 and #2 feeding 2 Buttkicker Amps and 7 Buttkickers. After ARC, I've had to crank up the volume on both amps to almost 100% (they were at 50% before). With the output matching now, it's hard to put my finger on it, but the sensation isn't quite as good as it was before ARC....seems to be more easy to locate in the chair and slightly delayed. Any thoughgts?? I wonder if there would be a way to get an non-ARC'd sub output from one of the two sub outputs??


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14462301
> 
> 
> Anyone useing ARC witha Buttkicker setup?? I'm feeding my Velodyne sub via the XLR output and have RCA sub output #1 and #2 feeding 2 Buttkicker Amps and 7 Buttkickers. After ARC, I've had to crank up the volume on both amps to almost 100% (they were at 50% before). With the output matching now, it's hard to put my finger on it, but the sensation isn't quite as good as it was before ARC....seems to be more easy to locate in the chair and slightly delayed. Any thoughgts?? I wonder if there would be a way to get an non-ARC'd sub output from one of the two sub outputs??



I use Buttkickers with my Sunfine Subs.


I take the single LFE output from the D2 and feed it into

an external box which has adjustable cross overs and gains.


I split the single LFE channel into (6) Separate Channels to

feed the (6) separate AMPS for Sunfires Subs and Buttkickers.


I have *NOT UPGRADED* to ARC yet - so I have no idea how

ARC will deal with the LFE Channels. I don't know if ARC

should analyze one at a time or if ARC should look a the

entire LFE Spectrum.


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14459364
> 
> 
> Those curves look fine and the resulting sound should be quite good!
> 
> 
> Do you have an acoustically treated room? It looks like ARC found somewhat less inherent Room Gain in your room than many of the charts we have seen here (the "hump" in the Target and Calculated curves near the crossover). This is not a problem -- I'm just curious about what might be the cause.
> 
> 
> Your subwoofer looks like it is probably rated down to 30Hz or 26Hz, which is also fine, but not quite as deep as some of the servo-assisted subs people have been reporting here. Again, I wouldn't worry about that, you are only down a little at 20Hz. You won't make the floor bounce like DRHANKZ does with his "low rider" style floor thumpers, but you ALSO won't have to deal with problems in some movies that have excess sub-sonic energy in the LFE that they simply forgot to filter out!
> 
> 
> Your room (or speakers) look like they might be a little "bright" around 10KHz, so if you want to experiment with a 12KHz target that could be fun. Unlike most of the curves we've seen here your Measurements are actually a little hot out there in the front speakers. It will be interesting to see if you hear a difference though since your residuals out there are not large.
> 
> 
> You've got a pretty sizable room mode at 40Hz that ARC is pulling back into line. The result may be that your initial impression is that explosions sound a little thin at first since they tend to run between 30 and 50Hz (see your sub and LF/RF Measured curves). But your bass should sound quite a bit tighter across the board -- and much more natural. I suggest you take some time to get used to these results and I think you will like them a lot.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob, for your thorough response and suggestions. I will try using the 12KHz target soon.Will I need to re-measure or just enter the new target value and re-calculate? Regarding the room gain value, I have a smallish, 13' x 15' living room that has a large "TV Window" on the backwall leading into the kitchen. The back wall is about 1' behind the listening position. The room also has an entertainment center 7'H x 8'L on the sidewall and a 60" widescreen TV on the front wall. There is also a love seat on the opposite sidewall and 2 "Ekornes Stressless Recliners" on the listening plane across from the TV. I have 2 "Corner Traps", 1 near the Rel Stadium III Sub on the front wall and 1 on the back wall in the same place. The window on the front wall, behind the TV has vertical blinds as well as heavy drapes to reduce light infiltration. The room also has wall to wall carpeting, John.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/14462349
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob, for your thorough response and suggestions. I will try using the 12KHz target soon.Will I need to re-measure or just enter the new target value and re-calculate? Regarding the room gain value, I have a smallish, 13' x 15' living room that has a large "TV Window" on the backwall leading into the kitchen. The back wall is about 1' behind the listening position. The room also has an entertainment center 7'H x 8'L on the sidewall and a 60" widescreen TV on the front wall. There is also a love seat on the opposite sidewall and 2 "Ekornes Stressless Recliners" on the listening plane across from the TV. I have 2 "Corner Traps", 1 near the Rel Stadium III Sub on the front wall and 1 on the back wall in the same place. The window on the front wall, behind the TV has vertical blinds as well as heavy drapes to reduce light infiltration. The room also has wall to wall carpeting, John.



OK, thanks for that. I wonder if the lower room gain has something to do with your listening position being so close to the back wall?


No, you do not need to re-Measure. Just open a copy of the file containing your current Measurements, change the Target and accept that change, re-Calculate and re-Upload.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14462344
> 
> 
> I have *NOT UPGRADED* to ARC yet - so I have no idea how
> 
> ARC will deal with the LFE Channels. I don't know if ARC
> 
> should analyze one at a time or if ARC should look a the
> 
> entire LFE Spectrum.



In essence you have designed your own subwoofer out of this combo of elements and you should let ARC hear it as a combo. Consider that you wouldn't expect ARC to deal separately with the different drivers making up a single, full-range speaker.


ARC, in its current form, is not really an analysis tool, so I'm not sure it will add anything to what you already have in the way of setting up the combo of subwoofer elements to work together -- i.e., I don't see how you could use it effectively to analyze one subwoofer element at a time. The results would probably be biased because each individual subwoofer element will couple to the room in its own way. Whereas it is the "blend" of them working together that is the most important thing as far as ARC is concerned.


But having gone through the effort prior to ARC to set up all that stuff, ARC should be able to do good things with how the combo -- as a combo -- couples to your room and matches with the main speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/14461781
> 
> 
> Here are my ARC charts from my first measurement session on June 27th, with v 1.2.2. I am still using this measurement, but will be getting new subs in a week, and will upgrade ARC and re-measure then.
> 
> 
> I have to say that I am very pleased with how ARC sounds in my system. Sound quality definitely improved, most noticeably with tighter bass, and a more articulate and more defined sound to all audio. A very worthwhile upgrade!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any comments on my measurements?



It looks to me like you've got a pretty nasty room null around 50Hz that is canceling out a big chunk of response from everything but your side surround speakers.


ARC is fighting that and the resulting curves reflect that struggle. [It is much more difficult for ARC to tame a cancellation null than a resonance peak in room response. I.e., it is easier to reduce peak volumes than to boost dip volumes.]


Do you have your sub and LF/RF speakers up against a wall or in a corner? You might want to try some repositioning.


A room null around 50Hz can also be caused by an alcove that's left open -- roughly 6'x10'x10' for example as in a walk in closet or powder room. Consider whether you can close off a space like that (during ARC Measurement and during normal listening).


What you have now with ARC should sound dramatically better than before, but if you can make physical adjustments to tame that room null I think ARC could do an even BETTER job for you with just the speakers you have now.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

J. Fricano,

Another question for you: Do you have the LF and RF speakers right up against a wall or even in a corner? Their lowest frequencies look like they are being boosted by "boundary gain". ARC has that well in hand, but still you might want to consider moving them out from the wall by a foot or two.


Or closing off a rear "bass port" in them if they are adjustable that way.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14462264
> 
> 
> How come your sub's response drops off at 40 hertz? Is your subwoofer crossover set at a low level?



Good question. I guess it's probably a combination of the room and the subs, as I have dual SVS PC+ 20-39 subs that seem to be working well. Either my room accentuates the 20-40 hz range, or there's a good reason my subs are named 20-39's!


I have previously done a lot of measuring with REQ and other test tones before, with very similar measurement results. In the past EQ'ing with a BFD smoothed things out pretty well, but I have to admit that ARC sounds a lot better.


In about a week I will be upgrading to dual MFW-15 subs and taking new ARC measurements, so we will see what that does. The MFW's are supposed to be geared more towards the upper end of the subwoofer frequencies, so we will see what that looks like. It should be interesting!


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14462856
> 
> 
> It looks to me like you've got a pretty nasty room null around 50Hz that is canceling out a big chunk of response from everything but your side surround speakers.
> 
> 
> ARC is fighting that and the resulting curves reflect that struggle. [It is much more difficult for ARC to tame a cancellation null than a resonance peak in room response. I.e., it is easier to reduce peak volumes than to boost dip volumes.]
> 
> 
> Do you have your sub and LF/RF speakers up against a wall or in a corner? You might want to try some repositioning.
> 
> 
> A room null around 50Hz can also be caused by an alcove that's left open -- roughly 6'x10'x10' for example as in a walk in closet or powder room. Consider whether you can close off a space like that (during ARC Measurement and during normal listening).
> 
> 
> What you have now with ARC should sound dramatically better than before, but if you can make physical adjustments to tame that room null I think ARC could do an even BETTER job for you with just the speakers you have now.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I have played with placement a lot, but so far have not been able to tame that null very much. (My room is almost square at 18' x 19'.) My front mains are about 3' out from the front wall and equi-distant from the corners. My subs are also near the front wall/mains, but are by design not in corners, and not equi-distant from side or front walls. I played with placement and phase a lot on these subs as well, and probably as am good as I can get for now.


That is an interesting comment you made on the alcove. This may be a factor for me, as about one third of my room has a lower ceiling sloping towards full wall of windows, but I can't close this off. I do have three doors into the room, and usually leave one in the back open during playback and measurements, maybe the results would be better with that door closed too?Perhaps room treatment or bass traps would help this? At any rate, ARC does work wonderfully in my system. I have experience EQ'ing my subs with REQ and a BFD for the last few years, so I had decent results before, but I have to say that I sold the BFD right after I ran ARC the first time!










As I mentioned in another post, I am upgrading my subs when they arrive in roughly one week, and they are supposed be geared a little more to the mid and upper sub frequencies, so I will re-measure and see if they help my 50 -60 hz hole at all. It should be fun, and I can play around with placement and phase again too.


Thanks for the input,


Mike


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14459650
> 
> 
> Nah, it's not that bad!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually you've only got a max Measured swing of 8dB in everything except the Center speaker -- where you've got a 14dB swing below 100Hz. It looks like ARC has all of that well in hand.
> 
> 
> I take it you don't have a subwoofer yet.
> 
> 
> Now ARC is Targeting your calibrated setup at around 63dB which is a little low. Did you go through the exercise to set Noise Level to 75dB prior to taking the ARC Measurements? It's no big deal since obviously you can just turn the Main Volume up when playing stuff, but raising ARC's test sweep tones a bit may give you Measurements that pick up a bit more of what your room is doing.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I did the Rat Shack meter measurements and just redid my ARC mic measurements. The curves still peg between 60 and 65 dB. Wonder why?


By the way, I tried the "box" configuration you mentioned. I will post my new curves shortly.


dave


----------



## dweltman

new curves with "box" configuration for mike measurement layout:

 

Doc2.doc 159.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14463522
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I did the Rat Shack meter measurements and just redid my ARC mic measurements. The curves still peg between 60 and 65 dB. Wonder why?
> 
> 
> By the way, I tried the "box" configuration you mentioned. I will post my new curves shortly.
> 
> 
> dave



Remember that due to the apparent bug in the Setup / Speaker Calibration menu, you need to set the LF speaker's trim volume line to 0dB in that menu before you try to set the Noise Level. If you don't, the setting you come up with for Noise Level will be biased by what happens to be sitting in the LF line.


Other than that, I'm not sure we've discovered just how ARC goes about choosing the Target level. We know it does a wide frequency range analysis to pick the speaker levels (wider than the built-in test tones in the Speaker Calibration menu itself -- i.e., wider than you SPL meter gets to hear), and depending on the sizes of the peaks and dips in your Measured curves that could affect the level it ends up Targeting out in the mid range frequencies where things settle down.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14463537
> 
> 
> new curves with "box" configuration for mike measurement layout:



I don't see any significant differences. Do you hear any differences?


It looks to me like either mic position set works equally well capturing the characteristics of your room.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/14463513
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I have played with placement a lot, but so far have not been able to tame that null very much. (My room is almost square at 18' x 19'.) My front mains are about 3' out from the front wall and equi-distant from the corners. My subs are also near the front wall/mains, but are by design not in corners, and not equi-distant from side or front walls. I played with placement and phase a lot on these subs as well, and probably as am good as I can get for now.
> 
> 
> That is an interesting comment you made on the alcove. This may be a factor for me, as about one third of my room has a lower ceiling sloping towards full wall of windows, but I can't close this off. I do have three doors into the room, and usually leave one in the back open during playback and measurements, maybe the results would be better with that door closed too?Perhaps room treatment or bass traps would help this? At any rate, ARC does work wonderfully in my system. I have experience EQ'ing my subs with REQ and a BFD for the last few years, so I had decent results before, but I have to say that I sold the BFD right after I ran ARC the first time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned in another post, I am upgrading my subs when they arrive in roughly one week, and they are supposed be geared a little more to the mid and upper sub frequencies, so I will re-measure and see if they help my 50 -60 hz hole at all. It should be fun, and I can play around with placement and phase again too.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input,
> 
> 
> Mike



If you haven't already done so, you might at some point try moving your fronts and sub CLOSER to a wall. This will change how they couple to the room. You may be able to trade that 50Hz null for a PEAK at some other frequency (something that may have scared you away from that layout in your REQ/BFD days). Again, it is easier for ARC to lop off peaks than to fill in nulls.


I'm not enough of an audio engineer to advise on room treatments.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14463802
> 
> 
> If you haven't already done so, you might at some point try moving your fronts and sub CLOSER to a wall. This will change how they couple to the room. You may be able to trade that 50Hz null for a PEAK at some other frequency (something that may have scared you away from that layout in your REQ/BFD days). Again, it is easier for ARC to lop off peaks than to fill in nulls.
> 
> 
> I'm not enough of an audio engineer to advise on room treatments.
> 
> --Bob



That's a good thought, as my left and right surrounds are closer to the side walls and according to ARC have strong output in the 30 - 70 hz frequency range (same family of speakers). That's just where my mains and subs are lacking. My mains could be moved closer to a wall, and one of my two subs could as well. When I get my new subs in I will give that a try.


Thanks again,


Mike


----------



## yacht422

Bob: After mucho trial and error, i hope the attachment opens - this is my chart file.

If it opens, your review, please.

As always, thank you.

Walt

 

arc file to avs.zip 58.6591796875k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14464158
> 
> 
> Bob: After mucho trial and error, i hope the attachment opens - this is my chart file.
> 
> If it opens, your review, please.
> 
> As always, thank you.
> 
> Walt



Your file unzips to a "docx" file. My copy of Word 2004 for Macintosh does not open that file format, so I can't view it.


If you paste your charts into the Windows Paint program, you can save them as JPEG (image) files. Upload those here just like you did this file and it should be easy to view them.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

drat! back to the drawing boards!


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14462893
> 
> 
> J. Fricano,
> 
> Another question for you: Do you have the LF and RF speakers right up against a wall or even in a corner? Their lowest frequencies look like they are being boosted by "boundary gain". ARC has that well in hand, but still you might want to consider moving them out from the wall by a foot or two.
> 
> 
> Or closing off a rear "bass port" in them if they are adjustable that way.
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob, I have NHT 2.9 Tower speakers as my fronts with inward side firing 10" woofers. The left speaker is 28" from the sidewall, to the tweeter's center, and 36" from the front wall to the front baffle. The right speaker is the same distance from a 1/2 wall to the side, and equal distance from the front wall. The REL sub has the ability to accept a LFE,(from the D2), as well as a high level input, derived from my amp,(Both inputs used simultaneously), to blend in with the low frequency cut off of the front speakers to give "Sub Bass" output down to 16Hz. The high level input is tuned to cut in at 26Hz which is the supposed -3db point of the towers. The fronts are nomally run full range while the sub kicks in below that. I hope I am explaining this clearly?? Thanks again for your interest, John.


----------



## airboyd

First, a reply to Bob about the ARC setup prior to the ARC running....


That's more concise than the manual. I re-calibrated my speakers and did a new read. Thanks. I went through and turned off anything that looked like it shouldn't be on as well like the "TV size EQ"


Second,


These are my readings for the front. I noticed although the numbers are similar the scale is weird between right and left fronts. The left speakers is basically in a corner and the right is in front of the open hallway to the room. Does this graph look right for my room with a big hole (essentially) on the right?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14464158
> 
> 
> Bob: After mucho trial and error, i hope the attachment opens - this is my chart file.
> 
> If it opens, your review, please.
> 
> As always, thank you.
> 
> Walt



Your Main L/R speakers response are quite good. Hope you could capture the sub and center response also.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/14464853
> 
> 
> Hello Bob, I have NHT 2.9 Tower speakers as my fronts with inward side firing 10" woofers. The left speaker is 28" from the sidewall, to the tweeter's center, and 36" from the front wall to the front baffle. The right speaker is the same distance from a 1/2 wall to the side, and equal distance from the front wall. The REL sub has the ability to accept a LFE,(from the D2), as well as a high level input, derived from my amp,(Both inputs used simultaneously), to blend in with the low frequency cut off of the front speakers to give "Sub Bass" output down to 16Hz. The high level input is tuned to cut in at 26Hz which is the supposed -3db point of the towers. The fronts are nomally run full range while the sub kicks in below that. I hope I am explaining this clearly?? Thanks again for your interest, John.



I think the -3dB point is for an anechoic chamber response. with the room as a factor, you are getting much more Bass than needed. Why not remove the high level connection and just let the D2 send the regular LFE and LF signals to the REL?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd* /forum/post/14464870
> 
> 
> First, a reply to Bob about the ARC setup prior to the ARC running....
> 
> 
> That's more concise than the manual. I re-calibrated my speakers and did a new read. Thanks. I went through and turned off anything that looked like it shouldn't be on as well like the "TV size EQ"
> 
> 
> Second,
> 
> 
> These are my readings for the front. I noticed although the numbers are similar the scale is weird between right and left fronts. The left speakers is basically in a corner and the right is in front of the open hallway to the room. Does this graph look right for my room with a big hole (essentially) on the right?



You might try a Max EQ of 12khz., your HF response drops quite a bit from 5khz.


Your right speaker is not coupling to any side wall, this might explain why you have a hole at around 40 to 55hertz. Compared to the other speaker, you have a very good response from 27 hertz to 1khz for the Left speaker.


----------



## airboyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14464896
> 
> 
> Your Main L/R speakers response are quite good. Hope you could capture the sub and center response also.



Just uploaded it. Thanks.


B&W 802 Series 3, Center B&W HTM and B&W 805 (matched matrix) for the surrounds. Sunfire True Sub Mk 2 for the sub...


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/14463513
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I have played with placement a lot, but so far have not been able to tame that null very much. (My room is almost square at 18' x 19'.) My front mains are about 3' out from the front wall and equi-distant from the corners. My subs are also near the front wall/mains, but are by design not in corners, and not equi-distant from side or front walls. I played with placement and phase a lot on these subs as well, and probably as am good as I can get for now.
> 
> 
> That is an interesting comment you made on the alcove. This may be a factor for me, as about one third of my room has a lower ceiling sloping towards full wall of windows, but I can't close this off. I do have three doors into the room, and usually leave one in the back open during playback and measurements, maybe the results would be better with that door closed too?Perhaps room treatment or bass traps would help this? At any rate, ARC does work wonderfully in my system. I have experience EQ'ing my subs with REQ and a BFD for the last few years, so I had decent results before, but I have to say that I sold the BFD right after I ran ARC the first time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned in another post, I am upgrading my subs when they arrive in roughly one week, and they are supposed be geared a little more to the mid and upper sub frequencies, so I will re-measure and see if they help my 50 -60 hz hole at all. It should be fun, and I can play around with placement and phase again too.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input,
> 
> 
> Mike



You might also try sitting 3/5 of the lenght of the room. You might be sitting in a null area with respect to the frequency in question. You might also try to put the main speakers 1/10th(tweeter center) of the room's length and width as well as putting Bass traps.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd* /forum/post/14465109
> 
> 
> Just uploaded it. Thanks.
> 
> 
> B&W 802 Series 3, Center B&W HTM and B&W 805 (matched matrix) for the surrounds. Sunfire True Sub Mk 2 for the sub...




From the graphs, you should be happy with what ARC did for your system. It also explains why B&W speakers sounds a bit mellow sounding with a slight attenuation in the midrange area.


----------



## diamar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14448728
> 
> 
> I think your problem is the ambient room noise, although I agree it looks like your center speaker may have a faulty mid-range driver.
> 
> 
> The 200Hz peaks could be street noise for example.
> 
> 
> What are the specs on you sub? My guess would be that it is rated down to only 30Hz.
> 
> 
> There may not be much you can do until the ambient noise problem is cured.
> 
> 
> One possibility is to try a configuration without the Center speaker, and another without BOTH the Center speaker and the subwoofer just to satisfy yourself that ARC can produce useful results even given your ambient noise environment.
> 
> 
> But I think ARC is getting confused as to the room modes due to the noise.
> 
> --Bob



Once again Bob, you are a genius. The sub is only rated to 35Hz.


I need to mess a bit with the center. It is biwired from the amp, and there may be a faulty cable.


But I do suspect all the street noise is the real culprit here.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14465165
> 
> 
> You might also try sitting 3/5 of the lenght of the room. You might be sitting in a null area with respect to the frequency in question. You might also try to put the main speakers 1/10th(tweeter center) of the room's length and width as well as putting Bass traps.



I can't really change my seating distance, but I can change the main speaker locations, and may try bass traps sometime. Thanks for these suggestions as well.


Mike


----------



## CycloneMike

Received the new ARC kit Friday and had limited time to make some runs. I made the runs on the standard, not advanced program.


I am confused regarding the target curve provided by the ARC program for my D2 in the music mode that I use.


For the music mode I am running only the front speakers - no subwoofer, no surrounds, no rears. Therefore, the front speakers are set as full range. I use a sub/sat combination on each of my front speakers.


The confusing thing is that the target curve for the front speakers that ARC uses is still a waterfall curve, even though the measurements show that my system is more than capable of providing a full range response (yes - I still have some balancing to do on the settings between the fronts and the subs and I am working on that...).


It is using the same waterfall curve as my movie setup, in which it is seting the front crossover way too high (115 Hz) for the response, which is also forcing the sub crossover high than it should be (120 Hz).


My curves for movies and music are attached - remember I am still finding a balance point between the front speaker combination - I need to lower the volume on the subs and increase their crossovers from 80Hz - 100 Hz and see what happens.


The first run results did show me that I had the left sub out of phase with the speaker it was running with - I was able to get that fixed...


Thank you,

Mike

 

MOVIE-08190102.doc 238k . file

 

MUSIC-08190102.doc 110k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau

CycloneMike,

ARC doesn't use the "large" and "small" settings you have in the Anthem's Setup menu. ARC figures out your speaker's response on its own and comes to its own decision.


For your Music configuration (and also for your Movie configuration) I think ARC is seeing the steep dip at 100Hz (particular in the LF speaker) as an indication of the natural cutoff for your speakers, and is thus ignoring what your satellite subs are adding below that. You have an unusual inherent response in your combo front speakers because of the hole between where the main speaker drops off and the satellite sub kicks in.


You may be able to address this most effectively by adjusting the internal crossovers for your satellite subs. And as you've already noted, you also need to adjust the volume for them.


The fact that ARC is treating this dip at 100Hz as part of the inherent response of your front speakers -- instead of a room mode -- may also be an indication that you don't have your mic positions spread out enough.


Alternatively, you can run ARC in Advanced mode and adjust the Target crossover ARC plans to use for the front speakers yourself in the Targets window. If you want to try this, there's no need to re-Measure. Just make the change in Targets, accept that, re-Calculate, and re-Upload.


ETA: If that dip at 100Hz really is a room mode, then ARC ought to be trying to eliminate it for you. The fact that it isn't suggests ARC is hearing it at all your ARC mic positions -- no variation between mic positions. Which tells ARC this is inherent response in the speakers themselves.


(edited to correct the ETA above -- it is mic positions, not speaker positions that are at issue here)

--Bob


----------



## libsim

I apologize if this question has been asked previously, this is my first posting in the forum, I joined earlier today.


My dealer has mentioned that the ARC system greatly benefits larger rooms but unfortunately does not do the same for smaller spaces. I live in a 900 Sq. Ft. Condo and the room dimension that my D2 is in is 10ft X20 Ft. Will the upgrade price be worth it in my case? Thanks in advance for your replies and knowledge.


Libsim.


P.s. The rest of my equipment is the Anthem A5 Amp and 2 Bowers and Wilkins Signature Diamond Speakers in the front and 2 XT4's in the back.

Thanks.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *libsim* /forum/post/14468941
> 
> 
> I apologize if this question has been asked previously, this is my first posting in the forum, I joined earlier today.
> 
> 
> My dealer has mentioned that the ARC system greatly benefits larger rooms but unfortunately does not do the same for smaller spaces.



I cannot think of any reason for him to say that. In fact, I would suspect that it is probably more advantageous in smaller rooms.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14464969
> 
> 
> I think the -3dB point is for an anechoic chamber response. with the room as a factor, you are getting much more Bass than needed. Why not remove the high level connection and just let the D2 send the regular LFE and LF signals to the REL?



J. Fricano,

I agree with the suggestion made here by ABC999. I think coupling in that high level sub input is giving you more bass than you need. There are also potential phase problems between the two separate inputs you are mixing in your sub.


Try using just the subwoofer output of the D2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *libsim* /forum/post/14468941
> 
> 
> I apologize if this question has been asked previously, this is my first posting in the forum, I joined earlier today.
> 
> 
> My dealer has mentioned that the ARC system greatly benefits larger rooms but unfortunately does not do the same for smaller spaces. I live in a 900 Sq. Ft. Condo and the room dimension that my D2 is in is 10ft X20 Ft. Will the upgrade price be worth it in my case? Thanks in advance for your replies and knowledge.
> 
> 
> Libsim.
> 
> 
> P.s. The rest of my equipment is the Anthem A5 Amp and 2 Bowers and Wilkins Signature Diamond Speakers in the front and 2 XT4's in the back.
> 
> Thanks.



ABSOLUTELY. Odds are your room is not acoustically treated, and if you have something like a 10 foot ceiling you also have dimensions that will couple strongly with certain bass frequencies.


You don't mention whether you have a D2 (ARC upgrade price $400) or an AVM unit (upgrade price $800 plus dealer install charge for the hardware change), but in either case what ARC should provide for you will be a bargain.


If you've got room to put a sofa at your main listening position, then you've also got room to give the ARC mic positions enough spread for it to do its job.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd* /forum/post/14464870
> 
> 
> First, a reply to Bob about the ARC setup prior to the ARC running....
> 
> 
> That's more concise than the manual. I re-calibrated my speakers and did a new read. Thanks. I went through and turned off anything that looked like it shouldn't be on as well like the "TV size EQ"
> 
> 
> Second,
> 
> 
> These are my readings for the front. I noticed although the numbers are similar the scale is weird between right and left fronts. The left speakers is basically in a corner and the right is in front of the open hallway to the room. Does this graph look right for my room with a big hole (essentially) on the right?



There's no need to turn off those additional audio Setup settings (Room Resonance Filter, Center EQ, THX Ultra 2 Sub, and Boundary Gain Compensation). ARC ignores them during Measurement and also during normal listening (for sources with Room EQ = ON set).


-------------------------------------


I agree with everything ABC999 said about your curves.


Don't worry about the RF Measured curve -- ARC has that well in hand. The dip around 50Hz is probably due to the lack of a wall on that side, but it is not an issue.


Your curves are clean enough that I think you can afford to try raising Max EQ Frequency Target. 12KHz might be a good place to start. Keep an eye particularly on the Center speaker Calculated curve to make sure raising that Target doesn't screw up the lower frequencies too much for that one (that's your roughest curve right now). If you see problems, try splitting the difference on that Target -- maybe 8 or 9 KHz. Remember that you can check all that without having to re-Measure. Just adjust the Target, accept that change, re-Calculate, and if you like what you see re-Upload.


If you do raise that Target, trust your ears. In the final analysis, what you hear is more important than what the curves show. If it sounds better then it IS better. And vice versa.


The subwoofer appears to be well blended in. I would think the results you have right now should sound quite good!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14464158
> 
> 
> Bob: After mucho trial and error, i hope the attachment opens - this is my chart file.
> 
> If it opens, your review, please.
> 
> As always, thank you.
> 
> Walt



Apparently the "docx" file format is the new Microsoft file format for Word -- newer than what my Word 2004 for Mac understands. There is a converter that Microsoft now has available for folks like me, but for reasons I'll leave unstated I don't want to install that.


HOWEVER, you may be able to Save As to a new file the exact same Word file you already have, specifically selecting "doc" file format in the Save As dialog box this time -- the format compatible with older versions of Word. Then if you bring that one here I'll be able to view it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

J. Fricano,

It occurs to me that your unusual setup for sub connection may also be a factor in ARC seeing an uncommonly low Room Gain in your room. I have to think about this some more, but if you *DO* try the experiment of just using the subwoofer output from the D2, check out what happens to Room Gain and let us know if you get a different number back.

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14469131
> 
> 
> Apparently the "docx" file format is the new Microsoft file format for Word -- newer than what my Word 2004 for Mac understands. There is a converter that Microsoft now has available for folks like me, but for reasons I'll leave unstated I don't want to install that.
> 
> 
> HOWEVER, you may be able to Save As to a new file the exact same Word file you already have, specifically selecting "doc" file format in the Save As dialog box this time -- the format compatible with older versions of Word. Then if you bring that one here I'll be able to view it.
> 
> --Bob



Bob is correct that you can do a File - save as for word 2003 compatibity format. Also using the alt print screen key combo saves the active window into the paste buffer whihc could be copied into window paint program to save a jpg file format.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *libsim* /forum/post/14468941
> 
> 
> I apologize if this question has been asked previously, this is my first posting in the forum, I joined earlier today.



By the way, welcome to AVS and welcome to this thread!


In the first post of this thread you will find a collection of links to "The Good Parts Version" -- a collection of links to posts in this thread which have proven helpful to many of us.


At the moment we don't have ARC stuff in there yet -- perhaps we'll collect a section of ARC post links in the next few months. But for all the non-ARC stuff, those links are worth a look.

--Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck

FYI - Ordered the ARC upgrade for my AVM-50 today. They quoted me about 2 weeks until it should arrive and are charging me $100 for the labor.


My only regret is that I wish I would have ordered sooner to ensure arrival before the holiday weekend.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14468788
> 
> 
> CycloneMike,
> 
> ARC doesn't use the "large" and "small" settings you have in the Anthem's Setup menu. ARC figures out your speaker's response on its own and comes to its own decision.
> 
> 
> For your Music configuration (and also for your Movie configuration) I think ARC is seeing the steep dip at 100Hz (particular in the LF speaker) as an indication of the natural cutoff for your speakers, and is thus ignoring what your satellite subs are adding below that. You have an unusual inherent response in your combo front speakers because of the hole between where the main speaker drops off and the satellite sub kicks in.
> 
> 
> You may be able to address this most effectively by adjusting the internal crossovers for your satellite subs. And as you've already noted, you also need to adjust the volume for them.
> 
> 
> The fact that ARC is treating this dip at 100Hz as part of the inherent response of your front speakers -- instead of a room mode -- may also be an indication that you don't have your mic positions spread out enough.
> 
> 
> Alternatively, you can run ARC in Advanced mode and adjust the Target crossover ARC plans to use for the front speakers yourself in the Targets window. If you want to try this, there's no need to re-Measure. Just make the change in Targets, accept that, re-Calculate, and re-Upload.
> 
> 
> ETA: If that dip at 100Hz really is a room mode, then ARC ought to be trying to eliminate it for you. The fact that it isn't suggests ARC is hearing it at all your ARC mic positions -- no variation between mic positions. Which tells ARC this is inherent response in the speakers themselves.
> 
> 
> (edited to correct the ETA above -- it is mic positions, not speaker positions that are at issue here)
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thank you for the response and suggestions.


I guess what I do not understand is why if in the standard setup when I uncheck the box that indicates movies and music are the same and then in the music column I indicate there are no other speakers except for the front why the ARC program would not implement a "flatter" curve down to 20 Hz?


This has nothing to do with whether I am indicating large or small or full range in the D2 setup (I know that is ignored in the ARC program), it has to do with the front speakers being the only speakers, so the ARC should not implement a waterfall curve that represents a 115 HZ crossover?


I started with the sub crossover at 60 Hz, and switched to 80 Hz after the first run, my next attempt will be at 100 Hz. I actually used the Stereophile setup CD to find what was wrong with the phasing and set the correct phasing on the speaker / sub combinations. I will take the next step and use it and adjust the volume (as best as possible with a Rat Shack meter at low frequencies..although my ears might work just as well at the lower frequencies) to get a more smoth curve and transition on the bass decade warble sweep.


According to the Stereophile review (at least in J. Atkinson's room) my C1's exhibited a drop in the response similar to what ARC is seeing, so maybe increasing the crossover will help this out. Also attached is the measured response in the chamber (blue speaker, red rear port, black combined - I think).



See attached from the review.


Thank you,


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

CycloneMike,

Your front speakers (with the attached satellite subs) have an odd response that is confusing ARC.


It is apparently seeing the steep dip at 100Hz as the natural cutoff of those speakers, and thus the dramatic rise in bass below that is being treated as a room effect (like Boundary Gain). ARC is wrong in deciding this, and so you have to help it out.


Odds are your different mic locations are also picking up variations on that low bass, which would be another reason ARC is seeing all of that as unwanted room response.


The best approach would be to deal with the cause of that dip at 100Hz. That would help ARC figure out the true crossover Target should be lower, but while also looking for variations in the satellite bass response that really are room related and need to be weeded out.


But you can also manually lower ARC's choice of crossover Target for the fronts to help it past its confusion.


In any event, the first thing to do is to get the volume of those satellites more in line with what the main speakers are producing, and look again at their crossover to see if that's the solution to the 100Hz dip.

--Bob


----------



## izzihd

I use ARC on a D1 in a 11x13x7 room, and the improvement is significant - well worth the $400. I was using an SOS Optimizer to tame my largest node, but ARC sounds much better and adds major improvement up through the mid-range.


One note - my room was well treated before I got ARC. In the low frequencies, the improvement from ARC about matched the improvement from adding two Mondo Traps to the front of the room. Of course, the traps are big and ugly, and cost twice as much as the invisible ARC.


Good luck!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *izzihd* /forum/post/14470127
> 
> 
> One note - my room was well treated before I got ARC. In the low frequencies, the improvement from ARC about matched the improvement from adding two Mondo Traps to the front of the room. Of course, the traps are big and ugly, and cost twice as much as the invisible ARC.
> 
> 
> Good luck!



So are you saying you actually REMOVED the Traps and are STILL getting better bass results from ARC? Wow!

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14463802
> 
> 
> ........I'm not enough of an audio engineer to advise on room treatments.
> 
> --Bob



While hunting for info on room treatment recently, I found this article rather informative.


-Ben


----------



## izzihd

Hi Bob,


I do still have the Mondo traps and really value the contribution they make to the sound of the system. They don't look pretty, but they are paid for and they work.


Thanks.


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14462301
> 
> 
> Anyone useing ARC witha Buttkicker setup?? I'm feeding my Velodyne sub via the XLR output and have RCA sub output #1 and #2 feeding 2 Buttkicker Amps and 7 Buttkickers. After ARC, I've had to crank up the volume on both amps to almost 100% (they were at 50% before). With the output matching now, it's hard to put my finger on it, but the sensation isn't quite as good as it was before ARC....seems to be more easy to locate in the chair and slightly delayed. Any thoughgts?? I wonder if there would be a way to get an non-ARC'd sub output from one of the two sub outputs??



I, too, had to crank up my Buttkicker amp level a bit after applying ARC. This was because my subwoofers (Velodyne DD-18 and two in-wall Triad subs) had their upper-bass removed a bit by ARC , leaving less upper-bass to be sent from the D2's subwoofer output to the Buttkickers as well. But I have my Buttkicker amp set to only work below 50 Hz, so the difference wasn't very dramatic. I'm pretty happy with how it all worked out.


- Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *izzihd* /forum/post/14470411
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I do still have the Mondo traps and really value the contribution they make to the sound of the system. They don't look pretty, but they are paid for and they work.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Ah, OK. Thanks for clarifying that.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14469782
> 
> 
> FYI - Ordered the ARC upgrade for my AVM-50 today. They quoted me about 2 weeks until it should arrive and are charging me $100 for the labor.
> 
> 
> My only regret is that I wish I would have ordered sooner to ensure arrival before the holiday weekend.



$100 seems high. My dealer charged me $39 and he said it was a snap for my AVM-50. I would inquire about that.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14472991
> 
> 
> $100 seems high. My dealer charged me $39 and he said it was a snap for my AVM-50. I would inquire about that.



With the weak dollar $39 in Canada might equal $100 in the USA







!


----------



## TREVLAN

funny how not to long ago, the dollar was the other way, I'll take it for now.


That sucks hearing you guys are getting charged, Honestly this can be installed by yourself , Anthem gives you everything from extra screws and even a strap to stop electical discharge o the new DSP.


BTW, I ordered my new CC690 Center, was hoping to have it tomorrow, we shall see.


But this means another reARC... argggg i hate that...lol


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14473408
> 
> 
> funny how not to long ago, the dollar was the other way, I'll take it for now.
> 
> 
> That sucks hearing you guys are getting charged, Honestly this can be installed by yourself , Anthem gives you everything from extra screws and even a strap to stop electical discharge o the new DSP.
> 
> 
> BTW, I ordered my new CC690 Center, was hoping to have it tomorrow, we shall see.
> 
> 
> But this means another reARC... argggg i hate that...lol



No you won't when you hear the difference









John


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14473408
> 
> 
> But this means another reARC... argggg i hate that...lol



I know but it gets easier every time...........


----------



## CycloneMike

Here are the changes after I adjusted the crossover on the fronts and turned down the volume on the satellite subs.


Much better! It sounds great.


Now - if I want to try a higher cutoff frequency do I have to remeasure, or just recalculate?


Thanks,


Mike

 

MOVIE-08200107.doc 176k . file

 

MUSIC-08200107.doc 90.5k . file


----------



## buddy4711

since a few weeks I am experiencing HDMI connection failures from time to time during a movie from various sources (player, PC, cable TV) via D2 to projector or TV. It usually reconnects automatically after a few seconds (the message apears "frequency outside of range.." on a blue screen). I have installed v 1.33. Before with 1.31 I do not remember having similar issues. Very annoying. Are there any of such issues known with 1.33? I have very expensive and solid HDMI cables and don't think that the cables are the reasons of the recent problems. Any ideas? And if so, can I reinstall 1.31? thanks


----------



## KCWolfPck

Before I explain, I fully understand that what I did was dumb. I knew I was taking a risk when I did this and the outcome sucks, but I'll live with it because I'm an idiot.


I had an AVM-50 running firmware 1.21 that I wanted to upgrade to 1.33. I only had a Radio Shack USB>Serial adapter that has served me well with previous updates. However, I no longer have a XP machine to use. I searched the net to find a way to run this adapter on Windows Vista and I thought I found what I needed.


I installed the "Vista Driver" and ran the update. BAM! During the flash update I get the Blue Screen of Death and Vista crashed. I load up to try again....same thing.


So, I go purchase a new USB>Serial adapter that is compatible with Windows Vista (I purchased the Gigaware adapter from RS, part number 26-949). And took the following steps:


1) Uninstalled all previous drivers and rebooted

2) Installed Vista drivers for new adapter and rebooted

3) Confirmed COM port settings, etc...

4) Ran the Anthem 1.33 firmware upgrade file and followed directions (reloaded default settings, unplugged HDMI, reset power, etc...)


This time, I got an error after the OKI Internal flash updated/verified. The error was "Cannot connect to OKI boot loader".


I ran the firmware upgrade several times with the same result. I came here are did some searching and it appears that several people that continually encountered this error fixed the problem with a flash erase. So, I ran the flash erase program 5 times then tried to install 1.33 again.


I keep getting the same error. The firmware upgrade cannot complete.


However, I am able to use my AVM-50. I reset all of my settings and remapped all of my sources. The version number says 1.33 on the display.


My concern is that there is still something wrong as the flash upgrade has not been able to finish. I just yesterday ordered the ARC-1 upgrade and I am hoping that this won't create problems for that install.


Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to be able to complete the install of 1.33?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## TREVLAN

kal and jay,


I know what you guys are saying but it's just a pain, move the speaker an inch reARC, touch this reARC. But I guess in the long run it is worth it, just more of a pain you know.


Going from a 590 to 690 shouldn't be that big a deal Jayray?



Trev


----------



## smoz74

KCWolfPck,


I experienced the same 1.33 upgrade problem as you. In the past I had always used an older XP machine to do the upgrade and never had a problem. For 1.33, I used a new Vista SP1 box and got the "Cannot connect to OKI boot loader" error four times before I gave up. I found that the motherboard code had been upgraded to 1.33 but the video processor code was still at 1.31. However, I spoke with Nick & Piero at Anthem and they said that there were no significant changes in the video code that would cause problems if I continued to run that configuration. But they did say that there could be compatibility issues if I had been running older firmware. They also said that there seemed to still be some compatibility issues between the flash utility and Vista.


I waited a few weeks before I got the chance to try upgrading again, but this time I pulled my old XP box back by the AVM50 and used that and the upgrade worked perfectly on the first try. I did not have to do a flash erase. Both PCs have ASUS motherboards with 16650's on the board - I have never attempted to use a USB to serial converter to do an upgrade.


So unfortunately the answer seems to be "use XP for flash upgrades".


On a side note, I did find an annoyance with 1.33. One of the main reasons I upgraded to it from 1.31 (aside from the occasional self shutdown bug) was to get the new input resolution on the display feature. I've found that it does not refresh properly all the time. A few examples: a DirecTV receiver set to output native resolution for each channel connected via component. The first channel will display the resolution (say 720p). I then swtich to a standard def channel and instead of getting 480i, it defaults back to MAIN. Cycling through the status info also shows "No Input" for video even though there is a picture being displayed. I've also found this to be an issue when using my DVD player (component in) and PS3 (HDMI). I talked with Piero and he filed a trouble ticket for this.


Hope all this helps!


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smoz74* /forum/post/14475764
> 
> 
> KCWolfPck,
> 
> 
> I experienced the same 1.33 upgrade problem as you. In the past I had always used an older XP machine to do the upgrade and never had a problem. For 1.33, I used a new Vista SP1 box and got the "Cannot connect to OKI boot loader" error four times before I gave up. I found that the motherboard code had been upgraded to 1.33 but the video processor code was still at 1.31. However, I spoke with Nick & Piero at Anthem and they said that there were no significant changes in the video code that would cause problems if I continued to run that configuration. But they did say that there could be compatibility issues if I had been running older firmware. They also said that there seemed to still be some compatibility issues between the flash utility and Vista.
> 
> 
> I waited a few weeks before I got the chance to try upgrading again, but this time I pulled my old XP box back by the AVM50 and used that and the upgrade worked perfectly on the first try. I did not have to do a flash erase. Both PCs have ASUS motherboards with 16650's on the board - I have never attempted to use a USB to serial converter to do an upgrade.
> 
> 
> So unfortunately the answer seems to be "use XP for flash upgrades".
> 
> 
> On a side note, I did find an annoyance with 1.33. One of the main reasons I upgraded to it from 1.31 (aside from the occasional self shutdown bug) was to get the new input resolution on the display feature. I've found that it does not refresh properly all the time. A few examples: a DirecTV receiver set to output native resolution for each channel connected via component. The first channel will display the resolution (say 720p). I then swtich to a standard def channel and instead of getting 480i, it defaults back to MAIN. Cycling through the status info also shows "No Input" for video even though there is a picture being displayed. I've also found this to be an issue when using my DVD player (component in) and PS3 (HDMI). I talked with Piero and he filed a trouble ticket for this.
> 
> 
> Hope all this helps!



Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, I now only have 2 laptops and both are running Vista, a Vista desktop, and a MacBook. I wonder if I can revert my older laptop back to XP (it's running slow on Vista anyway)?


The only problem I've had so far with my uncompleted firmware update is that I've lost access to the on-screen menu. When I go to the set-up menu, the screen just goes blank. I can adjust menus using the front display. If I change the video muted background color to blue or magenta, instead of the screen going blank....I get that color instead. Weird....but better than having a bricked AVM-50.


I would definitely like to complete a firmware install. Hopefully there is a way to do it with my current Vista notebook, but if not....I'll have to find an XP one.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14475448
> 
> 
> kal and jay,
> 
> I know what you guys are saying but it's just a pain, move the speaker an inch reARC, touch this reARC. But I guess in the long run it is worth it, just more of a pain you know.



It only matters if you care and, apparently, we all do, around here.



> Quote:
> Going from a 590 to 690 shouldn't be that big a deal Jayray?



It must be, right?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14474536
> 
> 
> Here are the changes after I adjusted the crossover on the fronts and turned down the volume on the satellite subs.
> 
> 
> Much better! It sounds great.
> 
> 
> Now - if I want to try a higher cutoff frequency do I have to remeasure, or just recalculate?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Mike



Yes, those look a lot better.


If you want to try experiments with a higher Max EQ Frequency Target all you need to do is re-Calculate and re-Upload.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/14474827
> 
> 
> since a few weeks I am experiencing HDMI connection failures from time to time during a movie from various sources (player, PC, cable TV) via D2 to projector or TV. It usually reconnects automatically after a few seconds (the message apears "frequency outside of range.." on a blue screen). I have installed v 1.33. Before with 1.31 I do not remember having similar issues. Very annoying. Are there any of such issues known with 1.33? I have very expensive and solid HDMI cables and don't think that the cables are the reasons of the recent problems. Any ideas? And if so, can I reinstall 1.31? thanks



You can certainly re-install V1.31, but there are no changes in V1.33 that would explain this, and no other reports here that I recall like this.


A few things to check:


* Double check that all of your HDMI plugs are fully inserted straight into the socket, with no cable stress shifting the plug in any direction. It only takes a little looseness in the socket to make for a flakey connection. Check both ends of each HDMI cable.


* For the sources that are giving you a problem, view that source, open up the Video Source Adjust menu, go to the Output pane, and check that Frame Lock is OFF (unless you have good reason to want it set to Auto for that source). Frame Lock = Auto makes the HDMI handshake a little more complex.


* When setting up the video to your display, did you discover that you had to adjust the display to shift the image horizontally by a significant amount (more than a few pixels)? If so then you may have HDMI Sync set the wrong way in Setup / Video Output. There are 2 possible sync settings and choosing the wrong one will result either in no video or in video that's shifted horizontally. And if you do get video, and correct for the horizontal shift by making an adjustment in your display, then the video connection can be flakey.


* Double check that the rest of your Video Output settings match what you thought you set in there -- i.e., that things got restored properly after the V1.33 firmware install.


* If you are having problems primarily with a cable or satellite TV box, see if you can discover whether they have snuck new firmware onto your box. It is not unheard of for firmware updates of cable boxes to screw up their HDMI output. Try using Component video from the cable box to the Anthem (with Optical digital audio) to see if that works better.


If these suggestions don't lead to a solution, give Anthem tech support a call and describe what's happening with V1.33. They may ask you to try a re-install of V1.33 on top of itself. It is unlikely that you have a hardware problem, but give them a chance to diagnose this with you.


And take heart. Anthem is working on new HDMI code that's slated for V1.34 that should clean up the HDMI handshake quite a bit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14475077
> 
> 
> I keep getting the same error. The firmware upgrade cannot complete.
> 
> 
> However, I am able to use my AVM-50. I reset all of my settings and remapped all of my sources. The version number says 1.33 on the display.
> 
> 
> My concern is that there is still something wrong as the flash upgrade has not been able to finish. I just yesterday ordered the ARC-1 upgrade and I am hoping that this won't create problems for that install.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to be able to complete the install of 1.33?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Well you do need to solve this. You will need to re-install V1.33 after the ARC DSP board is added to your machine to activate that new hardware.


Make sure your USB/Serial adapter is connected directly to your computer (no USB hub). Disconnect any other USB devices if you can. Use a wireless mouse instead of a USB mouse for example. Make sure no other programs are running on the computer while doing the firmware install. Make sure the computer's energy saver settings are not set to slow down the computer or go into screen saver or turn off the disc drives etc. I.e., try to eliminate anything that might be happening during the install that might cause a hiccup in the install.


People here HAVE used Vista to do this firmware install. Most folks have had the best luck using the Keyspan USA-19HS USB to serial adapter. If you decide to get one of those, be sure to delete the Radio Shack adpater's drivers before you install the Keyspan. And download the latest Keyspan driver for Vista from their web site.


---------------------------------


My understanding is that Vista install discs also include a "downgrade to XP" option which might be what you need to replace Vista with XP on the slower laptop.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smoz74* /forum/post/14475764
> 
> 
> On a side note, I did find an annoyance with 1.33. One of the main reasons I upgraded to it from 1.31 (aside from the occasional self shutdown bug) was to get the new input resolution on the display feature. I've found that it does not refresh properly all the time. A few examples: a DirecTV receiver set to output native resolution for each channel connected via component. The first channel will display the resolution (say 720p). I then swtich to a standard def channel and instead of getting 480i, it defaults back to MAIN. Cycling through the status info also shows "No Input" for video even though there is a picture being displayed. I've also found this to be an issue when using my DVD player (component in) and PS3 (HDMI). I talked with Piero and he filed a trouble ticket for this.



This is a long standing problem, not new to V1.33. For some reason, the info shown by pressing the Select key sometimes updates too soon -- i.e., while the signal is changing and before the new signal is established. The values displayed in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel are correct. And switching to a different source and back again corrects the info shown by pressing Select.


It's high time they fixed this annoyance. Thanks for raising the issue with them.

--Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14476928
> 
> 
> Well you do need to solve this. You will need to re-install V1.33 after the ARC DSP board is added to your machine to activate that new hardware.
> 
> 
> Make sure your USB/Serial adapter is connected directly to your computer (no USB hub). Disconnect any other USB devices if you can. Use a wireless mouse instead of a USB mouse for example. Make sure no other programs are running on the computer while doing the firmware install. Make sure the computer's energy saver settings are not set to slow down the computer or go into screen saver or turn off the disc drives etc. I.e., try to eliminate anything that might be happening during the install that might cause a hiccup in the install.
> 
> 
> People here HAVE used Vista to do this firmware install. Most folks have had the best luck using the Keyspan USA-19HS USB to serial adapter. If you decide to get one of those, be sure to delete the Radio Shack adpater's drivers before you install the Keyspan. And download the latest Keyspan driver for Vista from their web site.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> My understanding is that Vista install discs also include a "downgrade to XP" option which might be what you need to replace Vista with XP on the slower laptop.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I've gone ahead and ordered the Keyspan adapter. Hopefully that will enable me to fully install the firmware. I'll post back after delivery.


Thanks again.


----------



## AV-NUT-99

As you may recall from an earlier post, I felt I may need to move my subs out from the corner as my graphs showed significant sub out put drop off above 30Hz, where my main Sig 8s were still quite strong in the low range out beyond 120Hz. I got a significant improvement by placing the sub drivers even with the front of my Sig 8s, and better overall base response when I remeasured and uplooaded to the D2.


When running this a second time, I noticed that the targets (crossover Hz, room gain, etc.) were at the same settings as determined from the first time I ran the ARC measurements.


Question, except for the upper frequency limit, should I have zeroed out all the other fields in the target screen prior to running the new calculation, thereby letting ARC determine where to set these? I don't recall if these fields were zereoed out prior to running ARC the first time. Also, as I understand it, I should be able to go in and clear the target settings, then re-calculate since I have a copy of my second measured raw data file. Then look at the resulting 'corrected' results, and upload again if needed?


Thanks again for all your help Bob!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV-NUT-99* /forum/post/14477155
> 
> 
> As you may recall from an earlier post, I felt I may need to move my subs out from the corner as my graphs showed significant sub out put drop off above 30Hz, where my main Sig 8s were still quite strong in the low range out beyond 120Hz. I got a significant improvement by placing the sub drivers even with the front of my Sig 8s, and better overall base response when I remeasured and uplooaded to the D2.
> 
> 
> When running this a second time, I noticed that the targets (crossover Hz, room gain, etc.) were at the same settings as determined from the first time I ran the ARC measurements.
> 
> 
> Question, except for the upper frequency limit, should I have zeroed out all the other fields in the target screen prior to running the new calculation, thereby letting ARC determine where to set these? I don't recall if these fields were zereoed out prior to running ARC the first time. Also, as I understand it, I should be able to go in and clear the target settings, then re-calculate since I have a copy of my second measured raw data file. Then look at the resulting 'corrected' results, and upload again if needed?
> 
> 
> Thanks again for all your help Bob!!



Every time you do a new Measurement, all of the Targets are set according to whatever ARC sees in that Measurement. You don't have to do anything to make this happen. It is happening during the "processing" phase at the end of the last mic position. The targets are saved as part of the file with the Measurements. If you Open that file later, the Targets come in from the file as part of that.


If you alter any of the Targets for a given Measurement, and want to return to what ARC thinks is right, just Open the file with those Measurements, do an Auto Detect in the Targets window, and accept those results.


You can use the same set of Measurements for different Calculations. Open the file with those Measurements, adjust Targets as you want, accept those changes, then do a Calculate. If you like the results you get, then do an Upload. If you save that file the Targets you changed will be stashed in there along with the Calculation results you just produced. If you open that file later, the Targets will come in from the file -- i.e., they will show the Targets in effect when you saved that file. Again, you can always revert to ARC's idea of the correct Targets by opening the file and doing an Auto Detect.


I recommend you keep one file -- write protected -- with just your Measurements in it (and the Targets ARC has already chosen based on those Measurements). Then make copies of that, write enabled, and do one Calculation per copy -- write protecting them afterwards. With a reasonable choice of file names this will develop into a set of separate Calculations based on this given set of Measurements, and you can Open, view, and Upload any of those as you see fit while trying things out. The write protection is just to reduce the chance that you might accidentally change one of those files while playing with it.

--Bob


----------



## AV-NUT-99

Got it! Much clearer now as I was not sure when or how the target values were being set.


I have to admit - this stuff is really cool.


Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Good grief! I just discovered that if you click on the posts count for a thread it will tell you how many posts have been made to that thread by each poster.


Apparently, I have over 3,000 posts in this thread!


Without peeking, can you guess who is #2?










--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14477694
> 
> 
> Good grief! I just discovered that if you click on the posts count for a thread it will tell you how many posts have been made to that thread by each poster.
> 
> 
> Apparently, I have over 3,000 posts in this thread!
> 
> 
> Without peaking, can you guess who is #2?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I don't think that you have peaked yet but you are doing all of us a great service. Thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14477694
> 
> 
> Good grief! I just discovered that if you click on the posts count for a thread it will tell you how many posts have been made to that thread by each poster.
> 
> 
> Apparently, I have over 3,000 posts in this thread!
> 
> 
> Without peaking, can you guess who is #2?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



You must have some special privileges - because that does not work for me.


----------



## Kal Rubinson

Works for me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14477754
> 
> 
> I don't think that you have peaked yet but you are doing all of us a great service. Thanks.



It's a good thing AVS doesn't also tally typos!










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14477770
> 
> 
> You must have some special privileges - because that does not work for me.



Click on the "Replies" count to the right of the thread name in the list of threads for the forum.

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

damn, and #2 is 2000 posts less than you. But as Kal said, "Thanks" for the great work.


Kal, I know the 690 is better/bigger but I mean i don't see it being "that" big of a jump, but still better some then none.


And as for the reARC, ofcourse I can or I wouldn't do it. This is where having ARC is nice, any changes you make to your theater can improve the sound and ARC will kind of tell you , dips and peaks if what you did was worth it or not.



Mark


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14477801
> 
> 
> Click on the "Replies" count to the right of the thread name in the list of threads for the forum.
> 
> --Bob



That is WAY too complicated










I never would have found that.


I was clicking on the COUNT number in the thread.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Apparently I'm already up to #4 in the main PS3 as a Blu-Ray player thread and I've only had my PS3 for what, a couple months? They've got over 21,000 posts in that thread! Of course the signal to noise ratio in that thread is way lower than in this thread (posts like this one here notwithstanding).

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Looks like you scared away the moderators too. Haven't seen them around much.









John


----------



## yacht422

bob: walt here. greetings from fay embraced florida.

umptheenth time trying to send arc files

hope this is a winner.

walt


----------



## ajeruns

TREVLAN


The ARC made amazing difference with my CC 690. Not only is dialogue clearer, there is now a deeper and tighter bass I expected this speaker to have when I first purchased it. James Earl Jones' voice in "Clear and Present Danger" sounded amazing.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14479359
> 
> 
> bob: walt here. greetings from fay embraced florida.
> 
> umptheenth time trying to send arc files
> 
> hope this is a winner.
> 
> walt



Well, the FL/FR responses are very good even without ARC. Now they are outstanding!


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14477694
> 
> 
> Good grief! I just discovered that if you click on the posts count for a thread it will tell you how many posts have been made to that thread by each poster.
> 
> 
> Apparently, I have over 3,000 posts in this thread!
> 
> 
> Without peeking, can you guess who is #2?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I am with the top 20 posters. Thats good enough for me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14479359
> 
> 
> bob: walt here. greetings from fay embraced florida.
> 
> umptheenth time trying to send arc files
> 
> hope this is a winner.
> 
> walt



DING! DING! DING! DING! We have a winner!


I never saw your earlier curves so I don't know if anything has changed but these look fine! It looks like you have some Boundary Gain (wall proximity influence) in your front speakers at 20Hz. You might want to move them a bit further out from the wall/corner -- or close a rear "bass port" if they have such a thing. But ARC has reduced that quite a bit already so I wouldn't worry too much if you have spacing constraints against dong that.


Your high frequencies look great. I wouldn't touch a thing.


Do you have a subwoofer, center speaker, or rear surrounds? If so, post the separate chart with those too.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14480148
> 
> 
> I am with the top 20 posters. Thats good enough for me.



Well, I am in triple digits. That's a good start for me. I figured out how I can catch up with Bob. For now on, I will post one letter at a time.


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14477694
> 
> 
> Good grief! I just discovered that if you click on the posts count for a thread it will tell you how many posts have been made to that thread by each poster.
> 
> 
> Apparently, I have over 3,000 posts in this thread!...
> 
> --Bob



If this is a horse race then "Anthem D2/AVM50 tweaking guide" (not a catchy name for a horse) is only ahead by a nose. The The Onkyo TX-SR805 Thread lags by only 200 odd posts. As their top poster "only" has 628 posts, we clearly owe our lead to Bob P.


----------



## 3no

Digging deeper... you can click on a username and get to a page with a statistics tab which shows total posts for that user on the entire forum. Guess who has 6,744. I don't see an obvious way to get a nice ordered list like the thread-specific list that Bob discovered, but I'd bet that 6700+ is a forum record.


On a lighter note (if you can get much lighter or more off-topic than this), that same page makes the statement "Bob Pariseau has not made any friends yet", a statement we know is not true, thus making the post count data suspect as well.


(edit) Umm, I just noticed that the user's total post count is displayed prominently to the left of every post, so you can feel free to ignore this "find".


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/14480795
> 
> 
> On a lighter note (if you can get much lighter or more off-topic than this), that same page makes the statement "Bob Pariseau has not made any friends yet", a statement we know is not true, thus making the post count data suspect as well.



We here at "Bob Pariseau" are discouraged from making friends on the forum. It interferes with your posts/hour rate.


On the other hand, we are encouraged to participate in "Bring your kids to work day!" So long as they can type.

--Bob


----------



## Massimo N

After a couple of small adjustments in speaker placement (moved front speakers 6" closer to the front wall, now 20" in front of wall and seating about 1' to the left) I think I'm getting closer. I have to play with my sub placement a bit now.


Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions on what to do next or what they think of the results. I think I'm moving in the right direction.


OLD:
 


NEW:
 


Pictures of my theater are in my link.


Happy ARC customer so far


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Massimo N* /forum/post/14480851
> 
> 
> After a couple of small adjustments in speaker placement (moved front speakers 6" closer to the front wall, now 20" in front of wall and seating about 1' to the left) I think I'm getting closer. I have to play with my sub placement a bit now.
> 
> 
> Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions on what to do next or what they think of the results. I think I'm moving in the right direction.
> 
> 
> OLD:
> 
> 
> 
> NEW:
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures of my theater are in my link.
> 
> 
> Happy ARC customer so far



Your sub, fronts and centers look fine to me, but I'm puzzled with what happened to the low frequencies in your side surround speakers. ARC chopped your surrounds back hard in the low frequencies compared to your early results, possibly due to that sharp dip in your Right Surround at 150Hz.


This is not that awful because you subwoofer is perfectly capable of picking up all of that (and there's certainly no need to be directional down there), but it is a surprising difference compared to your older results.


Did you move the surrounds? Apparently ARC saw something it didn't like in the surrounds and decided to take advantage of the improvement it found in your subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## Massimo N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14480913
> 
> 
> Your sub, fronts and centers look fine to me, but I'm puzzled with what happened to the low frequencies in your side surround speakers. ARC chopped your surrounds back hard in the low frequencies compared to your early results, possibly due to that sharp dip in your Right Surround at 150Hz.
> 
> 
> This is not that awful because you subwoofer is perfectly capable of picking up all of that (and there's certainly no need to be directional down there), but it is a surprising difference compared to your older results.
> 
> 
> Did you move the surrounds? Apparently ARC saw something it didn't like in the surrounds and decided to take advantage of the improvement it found in your subwoofer.
> 
> --Bob



Thanx for the feedback Bob.


I didn't move the surrounds as they are mounted on the walls, other than re-directing the angle (left to right only) to focus at 2 feet in front of the captain's chair. I didn't re-check the vertical (up/down) of the speakers, but I wouldn't think this would effect the lower frequencies.


the seating change could have been the cause of the change.


One more change I forgot to mention is I changed the pattern that I took the 5 measurements.


I took it in a cross pattern as opposed to 1.5 feet across.


Old measurements were taken with following pattern:


4-2-1-3-5 (each 1.5' between each possition)


new (about 2.5' across from possition 1, and 2' front/back from possition 1).

--4--

2-1-3

--5--


Hope this makes sense.


----------



## dlynch34

Where Do I go in my D2 to adjust the speaker volume during arc calibration? If I missed this before I apologize


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/14481215
> 
> 
> Where Do I go in my D2 to adjust the speaker volume during arc calibration? If I missed this before I apologize



Set up/Speaker Calibration/Noise Level. ARC uses the Noise Level Setting to set the level of each speaker and the subwoofer.


----------



## jviggi

Bob,

Congratulations on your over 3,000 posts in this thread. You have helped many of us solve problems and improve our home theaters.

After trying many ARC measurements with slightly different speaker positions, I picked the best performance curves. I calculated using 12K and thought the curves looked good so I then uploaded the ARC data. My first response to listening was oh my god. I always thought my system sounded great, especially after ARC but this was a definite improvement. I threw all of my reference stuff (Master and Commander, Blackhawk Down, Celine Dion a new day, Dave Matthews, Pink Floyd, etc.) at it and it all sounded great. A broad sound stage, improved dialog, tight bass,and background sounds that I don't remember ever hearing. I think your 12K is a winner!

Unless you see something with the curves, I think I will just leave it this way. I can't believe my system could get any better, but I have said that before.

My 12K curves should be below:


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14481883
> 
> 
> Set up/Speaker Calibration/Noise Level. ARC uses the Noise Level Setting to set the level of each speaker and the subwoofer.



Just for clarification, should the volume be set to 0 prior to entering the menu....then adjusting the Noise level until you get 75 dB? Or does it matter because the Noise level sound doesn't take the volume setting into consideration?


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jviggi* /forum/post/14482713
> 
> 
> My 12K curves should be below:



jviggi,


Just out of curiosity....what kind of subwoofer do you run and what is the LFE crossover set to?



All,


Does anyone know if anyone here with ARC that has posted their results with a Martin Logan speaker system or a Martin Logan Descent subwoofer? Given Martin Logan's narrow sound dispersion field....I'm wondering how the ARC will react to the non-ideal microphone placements?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14482880
> 
> 
> Just for clarification, should the volume be set to 0 prior to entering the menu....then adjusting the Noise level until you get 75 dB? Or does it matter because the Noise level sound doesn't take the volume setting into consideration?



The only volume that matters is the volume setting for the Noise Level. You should make sure the setting for your front left speaker and your subwoofer are set to 0 first. Then adjust the Noise Level until it reads 75db. You will hear the sound coming from your front left speaker. Therefore, when you scroll down to your front left speaker, you should not have to adjust the volume. You can continue to adjust the other speakers if you want; but, you don't have to because ARC will not use them anyway. However, you should adjust the volume for your sub to also read roughly around 75db. So, the bottom line is that you want your front left speaker and your sub reading 75db. Once you set your Noise Level so that the front left speaker reads 75db, don't change it because that's what ARC will use.


Good luck.


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14483117
> 
> 
> The only volume that matters is the volume setting for the Noise Level. You should make sure the setting for your front left speaker and your subwoofer are set to 0 first. Then adjust the Noise Level until it reads 75db. You will hear the sound coming from your front left speaker. Therefore, when you scroll down to your front left speaker, you should not have to adjust the volume. You can continue to adjust the other speakers if you want; but, you don't have to because ARC will not use them anyway. However, you should adjust the volume for your sub to also read roughly around 75db. So, the bottom line is that you want your front left speaker and your sub reading 75db. Once you set your Noise Level so that the front left speaker reads 75db, don't change it because that's what ARC will use.
> 
> 
> Good luck.



Thanks for the clarification. As a follow up question, does the 75db level equal the reference listening level when your volume is set to 0?


Also, I remember reading a while back that when calibrating your sub, the you should calibrate it at about 8-10 db higher than the main speakers. It had something to do with the RS meter being able to pick up the low frequencies. Is that not applicable anymore?


ETA: In regards to the subwoofer level adjustment....my understanding is that the setting on the AVM-50 should be left at 0 and the calibrated volume should be set using the subwoofer volume knob. Correct?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14483169
> 
> 
> Thanks for the clarification. As a follow up question, does the 75db level equal the reference listening level when your volume is set to 0?
> 
> 
> Also, I remember reading a while back that when calibrating your sub, the you should calibrate it at about 8-10 db higher than the main speakers. It had something to do with the RS meter being able to pick up the low frequencies. Is that not applicable anymore?
> 
> 
> ETA: In regards to the subwoofer level adjustment....my understanding is that the setting on the AVM-50 should be left at 0 and the calibrated volume should be set using the subwoofer volume knob. Correct?



For the D2, 0 volume equals 85db, and -10 volume equals 75db. That's probably true for the AVM-50 as well; but, I'm not sure.


You should not calibrate your sub 8-10 db higher. You want to get it as close to 75 db as possible so that ARC can properly set it for you when you run it. You don't want your sub dominating your system. You really want your sub to disappear and just be an extension of your mains.


Yes, you should leave the setting on the AVM-50 to 0 and adjust the volume on your sub until it reads close to 75 db. You don't have to be exact. You just need to get it close, and ARC will take it from there.


----------



## dlynch34

Thanks for that.. Ok I have another stupid question. I am trying to get my speakers at reference level. I have a radioshack sound level meter what level should I measure it at?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/14483446
> 
> 
> Thanks for that.. Ok I have another stupid question. I am trying to get my speakers at reference level. I have a radioshack sound level meter what level should I measure it at?



You want your meter to read 75db. You can set the dial to 70. If you have the digital meter, adjust the volume for each speaker until it meter displays 75db. If you have the meter, adjust the volume for each speaker until the meter gets to +5.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14483671
> 
> 
> You want your meter to read 75db. You can set the dial to 70. If you have the digital meter, adjust the volume for each speaker until it meter displays 75db. If you have the meter, adjust the volume for each speaker until the meter gets to +5.



One more thing. Make sure you set response to "Slow" and weight to "C".


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14482880
> 
> 
> Just for clarification, should the volume be set to 0 prior to entering the menu....then adjusting the Noise level until you get 75 dB? Or does it matter because the Noise level sound doesn't take the volume setting into consideration?



The Main Volume setting (i.e., the volume knob on the Front Panel or the volume buttons on the remote) doesn't make any difference. Just so you know, whatever gets set in Setup / Speaker Calibration corresponds to what happens during normal playback when the Main Volume is set to -10dB, but you don't have to set the Main Volume to that before setting up Setup / Speaker Calibration.


However, there IS an apparent bug, which makes the test tone for the Noise Level line depend on the setting in the Left Front line. So set the Left Front line to 0dB before adjusting the Noise Level line.


I recommend you adjust the Noise Level line for (roughly) 75dB SPL prior to running ARC Measurements. You should also adjust the volume knob inside your subwoofer (or any other speaker with its own internal volume control) to yield (roughly) 75dB SPL when fed the same Noise Level you just set above. To do that, set the line for that subwoofer (or speaker) to 0dB in Setup / Speaker Calibration so that it is just being fed the Noise Level you picked above, without modification.


When you run ARC Measurements, the only value it will actually use out of that menu is Noise Level, so you don't have to reset or adjust any of the other speaker lines after making the adjustments described in the last paragraph. ARC Measurement also ignores whatever the Main Volume setting happens to be. An ARC Upload loads values for all the speaker lines according to what ARC has determined.


The above SPL settings need to be ballpark close only. ARC will set the precise values for you -- using the Noise Level value to configure the volume of its test sweep tones. Don't worry about the low frequency response of your SPL meter when setting subwoofer volume. For the preliminary setup we are talking about here, "slow response" and "C" weighting, with the SPL meter pointed straight up at the ARC mic position #1 will be just fine.


ARC uses a broader range of frequencies to determine the "best" speaker volume trims, so the values it uploads to this menu may differ a bit from what you would get if you did it yourself with the SPL meter. And the SPL level these ARC loaded values produce may also differ a bit from the 75dB SPL you just set above. But it should be close. And whatever SPL value you end up with after the ARC upload should be the same for all your speakers. If not, something is wrong.

--Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck

Sweet....I am sooooo looking forward to getting this ARC up and running.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jviggi* /forum/post/14482713
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Congratulations on your over 3,000 posts in this thread. You have helped many of us solve problems and improve our home theaters.
> 
> After trying many ARC measurements with slightly different speaker positions, I picked the best performance curves. I calculated using 12K and thought the curves looked good so I then uploaded the ARC data. My first response to listening was oh my god. I always thought my system sounded great, especially after ARC but this was a definite improvement. I threw all of my reference stuff (Master and Commander, Blackhawk Down, Celine Dion a new day, Dave Matthews, Pink Floyd, etc.) at it and it all sounded great. A broad sound stage, improved dialog, tight bass,and background sounds that I don't remember ever hearing. I think your 12K is a winner!
> 
> Unless you see something with the curves, I think I will just leave it this way. I can't believe my system could get any better, but I have said that before.
> 
> My 12K curves should be below:



These curves look very good indeed. Your biggest residual deviation from the Target is only about 4dB at 100Hz in the Left Surround speaker, but I don't think that's going to give you any problem at all.


The Measured curve for your subwoofer is kind of spiky and pretty low at 20Hz. My guess would be your subwoofer is rated down to 30Hz. ARC has helped here -- giving you fine response down to 25Hz. You might find some Boundary Gain boost helps here -- i.e., move the sub closer to a wall or corner so that it couples more strongly with the room at the lowest frequencies. Then re-Measure of course. But it's tough to know in advance if that might introduce some problems elsewhere in your sub's response. Your current results are so good that I suggest you mark your current sub position on the floor with masking tape so that you can put it back there more easily if the position closer to the wall doesn't work out for you.


Your high frequencies look great, and what you have right now should sound very good indeed!


By the way, "Oh my GOD!" responses like this get these guys all excited:







































--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14482911
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if anyone here with ARC that has posted their results with a Martin Logan speaker system or a Martin Logan Descent subwoofer? Given Martin Logan's narrow sound dispersion field....I'm wondering how the ARC will react to the non-ideal microphone placements?



Here's mine that's in use at the moment (1st pic). I'm taking new readings after some adjustments to my HT.


I found that if you wish for a flatter response at the top end to show in the graph, just toe in a bit more than the recommended one-third. (2nd pic) Otherwise, when the mic is at the outer positions, it will be at the edge of the inner dispersion boundary of the opposite speaker, most certainly the cause of a drop in HF as seen in the 1st pic.


But to my humble ears, there's little or no difference in sound quality with both toe-ins except for a slightly smaller sound stage width.


My system: Summit, Stage, Passage, Descent i.


-Ben


----------



## jviggi

Your high frequencies look great, and what you have right now should sound very good indeed!


By the way, "Oh my GOD!" responses like this get these guys all excited:




--Bob


Bob,

I have a Mirage BP 400. I looked at the curves and then I looked at my set up. I think I have the sub connected improperly. Attached is the little manual for the BP 400. I have a Y cable and have it connected like diagram 1. I think I should have it connected like diagram 2. I removed one leg of the Y cable and the sound changes but I am not sure if it was just a volume change.

The sub should be performing better according to a review by Widescreen Review.

It is a 400 watt, dual 12 speakers. They are driven by Pulse Width Modulation MOSFET amp with peak power at 1600W.Widescreen measured the following:

35 Hz 112dB

25 Hz 105dB

16 Hz 83dB

I think I have to measure ARC again using the correct cable connection


----------



## mr_fitz

I upgraded to v1.33 on my D2 and my Oppo 970 no longer works for sound. I tried movie and cd and neither worked for sound. Picture comes through fine though. I am hooked up hdmi.


Anyone else have this issue?


John


----------



## venpra

I am addressing this post specifically to Bob Pariseau, but would appreciate responses from other members that may have had experiences with identical setups:

____________________________________________________________ _____

Bob,

I am about to order the ARC kit for my AVM-50 and have a question about setting up ARC in conjunction with the EQ in my Velodyne DD-18. I know you set it up with your Velodyne DD-15 and have read some of your posts related to the matter. I had my audio and video "calibrated" about a year ago but have never been satisfied with the results, hence the decision to invest in ARC. I remember you mentioning that you "disabled" your Velodyne EQ and let ARC handle everything. My specific question has to do with how I can disable the Velodyne EQ before running ARC. Any help will be much appreciated.


--Venpra


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *venpra* /forum/post/14485501
> 
> 
> I am addressing this post specifically to Bob Pariseau, but would appreciate responses from other members that may have had experiences with identical setups:
> 
> ____________________________________________________________ _____
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I am about to order the ARC kit for my AVM-50 and have a question about setting up ARC in conjunction with the EQ in my Velodyne DD-18. I know you set it up with your Velodyne DD-15 and have read some of your posts related to the matter. I had my audio and video "calibrated" about a year ago but have never been satisfied with the results, hence the decision to invest in ARC. I remember you mentioning that you "disabled" your Velodyne EQ and let ARC handle everything. My specific question has to do with how I can disable the Velodyne EQ before running ARC. Any help will be much appreciated.
> 
> 
> --Venpra



There are 3 things you need to do:


1) In the Velodyne settings menu, select Preset 6 as the "Default" preset in the lower left corner of the settings. Preset 6 disables the internal Velodyne EQ processing.


2) In the same settings menu, disable the internal cross over processing in the Velodyne. Go to the crossover frequency setting in the upper left of the settings page, Select that, and then hit Reset on the remote. All of the crossover related entries should now change to NA indicating the internal crossover is turned off. [You may need to UNLOCK the "Setup" column of entries to do this.]


3) Adjust the volume of the Velodyne. With Setup / Speaker Calibration / Noise Level set to measure roughly 75dB SPL in the Anthem, and with the subwoofer volume trim line in that menu set to 0dB, adjust the volume in the Velodyne settings menu page so that it too produces roughly 75dB SPL.


When you have made those three adjustments on the Velodyne's settings menu page, Exit that page and be sure to Save your settings. This should return you to the main Velodyne screen which will now show that it is on Preset 6 with the volume you just set. Be sure to make the default Preset choice and the volume adjustment in the menu page like this (rather than on the main Velodyne front page) so that this Preset and volume is used automatically each time the Velodyne powers up.


[Double check that the Velodyne's volume setting still produces 75dB SPL just to be sure. If not, go back into the Velodyne's settings menu and make the volume change for Preset 6 in there. Exit and Save results as before.]


Preset 6, by factory default, also sets the servo setting in the Velodyne all the way up to the max value of 8 (Musical). If you have changed this in the past, my recommendation would be to set it back to 8. Again this is done on the settings menu page.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14485498
> 
> 
> I upgraded to v1.33 on my D2 and my Oppo 970 no longer works for sound. I tried movie and cd and neither worked for sound. Picture comes through fine though. I am hooked up hdmi.
> 
> 
> Anyone else have this issue?
> 
> 
> John



We haven't had any other reports like that here. Have you checked in Setup / Source Setup to make sure your settings got restored correctly?


Similarly, check in the Oppo itself to make sure HDMI audio output is still enabled.


I presume you've checked to make sure your HDMI plugs are in the correct sockets and fully inserted, right? Does HDMI audio work from other sources?

--Bob


----------



## AV-NUT-99

Trying to post my results as I have not done so previously. I am surprised at the increased levels of my raw curves in my music setting compared to the cinema configuration. Only change was to take out the center channel speaker.


I also ran a 12KHz calculation to see how it looked. I was not real bad above 5K but I can see a few areas where I had some uncorrected variance above 5K, but nothing major.


My only other comment is that I definitely saw a change when I moved my velodyne SC 12s out of the back corners (did not post these graphs) and placed the drivers even with the front L/R speakers (now getting response out beyond 95hZ to about 175Hz) but I don't think it is really adding to the overall sound as the Sig 8s are already quite capable in this range. A closer inspection shows that I probably need a bigger sub to get more output in the


----------



## AV-NUT-99

And here are my 12k calculation files. Just a test at this point as I have not uploaded them and not sure if I will.


----------



## yacht422

bob and abc: thx for the responses. yes, i have five + sub speakers. all full range. i would post surrounds/sub(which, show up on the screen i posted, at least when i open MY post to the forum) - - at any rate, i've once again run afoul of the windows gremlins, and cannot post additionally, yet.

however:what i do not at all understand is how the files are being interpreted. when i compare other's files, they all seem to follow the target curve, starting in the lower left corner.

i view my f/r target as starting around 65db. yet, arc has actually measured starting at 78 db[vs;the preferred 65db], jumping to 85db, all within the first 100hz. given that my speakers are rated to 30hz, why is the target higher than other posters targets, and why am i _actually_ measured as starting at 78db?

and, finally, why do you two gents believe that my measurements look "OK"?

i agree that arc has adjusted the measurements to a more "target" friendly reading, but, the measurements are, to me, bogus to start with.

did i mention i hate windows?

thx again for you considerable help to us all!

from soggy fl, walt


----------



## yacht422

bob and abc(et.al?)


reposting of file, should include lf/rf/surrounds

walt


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14468981
> 
> 
> J. Fricano,
> 
> I agree with the suggestion made here by ABC999. I think coupling in that high level sub input is giving you more bass than you need. There are also potential phase problems between the two separate inputs you are mixing in your sub.
> 
> 
> Try using just the subwoofer output of the D2.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you very much Bob, and ABC999. I will do that and re-measure and see what happens. John.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

LEVESQUE,

Here's a cut at a list of links to be added to the first post of this thread to collect some or our ARC-related knowledge into the "Good Parts Version" found there.

** Anthem Room Correction (ARC): Audio bliss in a few, easy steps!*
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14142274 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14160614 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14165296 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14181449 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14192486 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14207104 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14207158 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14207663 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14214469 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14216213 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14220432 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14232090 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14236866 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14256232 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14262027 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14267952 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14268617 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14286844 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14287488 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post14296873 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14306824 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14320989 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14322061 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14327449 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14335277 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14347781 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14351330 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14353551 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14363180 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14365808 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14366806 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14370256 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14372958 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14377508 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14379882 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14380719 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14383015 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14384710 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14391953 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14393593 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14393664 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14394305 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14395567 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14396801 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14407572 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14413014 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14415277 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14420677 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14422227 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14424204 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14424251 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14424733 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14429013 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14430627 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14436325 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14439704 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14439977 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14440383 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14448571 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post14451192 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14458172 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14459485 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14461019 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14462796 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14469019 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post14477302 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14484075 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV-NUT-99* /forum/post/14486595
> 
> 
> And here are my 12k calculation files. Just a test at this point as I have not uploaded them and not sure if I will.



I think your 12KHz results are well worth giving a listen. Your 5KHz stuff had the LF speaker kind of hot around 10KHz for example.


I don't know what is going on with the Measured curves in your Music charts. I've not seen anything quite like that. It looks like the ARC application got confused as to the scale of those when drawing the chart. The Calculated curves look fine even in Music -- which leads me to believe the data itself is OK and this is just a charting problem.


I suggest you make a copy of your file with the Measurements, open it in Advanced mode and do an Auto Detect in Targets. Then look at the Measured curves in Movie and Music again and see if they are still so different. If they are, I think it would be a good idea for you to email that ARC data file to Anthem tech support, along with a description of how you took the Measurements -- i.e., there's no good reason the Music Measured curves should be so much louder on the charts.


Your subwoofer response looks pretty good down to 25hz. So you are losing a little of the subsonic energy below that but it's not really bad with the sub you have now.


The Calculated curve for your center speaker looks rougher than the others, but keep in mind the scale. Your residuals are around 1dB for most of it with a max residual of only 2dB. This is even on the 12KHz Calculation. So you are doing fine.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike

A couple of questions regarding my current ARC curves - attached.


The movie run is on page 1 and the music on page 2 - 5000 Hz cutoff.


Is the dip at 15000 Hz due to the way ARC measures high frequencies, or possibly due to the height I am using for the microphone or is it truly a room mode? I know all my speakers are not going to roll off at the same frequency... The resulting sound does not seem to be missing the high frequencies as shown, or maybe my ears just can't tell...the sound is great!


For my music run ARC set the crossover at "full range" - why does it not use a flatter curve down to 20 Hz for the target? The curve looks the same as for the 40Hz curve for my movie setup that ARC picked for the front speakers.


I think there is a glitch in the ARC calculations for music. I went back in a did a different calculation with the cinema and set the cutoff down to 25Hz from the ARC selected 40HZ and it set the dB level higher at 20 Hz for the target than it does with full range with the music. In addition, the system will not allow me to change the target numbers for the music setting in advanced mode, only the cinema - is this correct?


Opinions please.

 

5000 HZ CUTOFF.pdf 257.5908203125k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14486787
> 
> 
> bob and abc(et.al?)
> 
> 
> reposting of file, should include lf/rf/surrounds
> 
> walt



The image you've posted here still only shows LF/RF and LS/RS. I.e., you've just captured the top set of stuff in the ARC display.


You need to scroll that ARC window so that the bottom set of stuff is visible (i.e., including your center and your subwoofer) and then screen capture that as a separate image file. When you "screen capture" an active window image in Windows it only grabs the part currently visible in that window. Since all of the ARC charts can't be shown all at once in that window, you have to scroll it up to the top and capture that part and then scroll down to the bottom and separately capture that part -- two image files.


------------------------------


I suspect your Target curves for the front speakers will make more sense when we finally get to see your subwoofer curve. First of all, the high response near 20 and 30Hz in your Measured curves for the LF/RF speakers looks like room response -- increased bass due to reflections. There's nothing wrong with that except that it tends to vary by frequency and location in the room. Which is just what ARC is trying to prevent.


So ARC may have decided to reduce the output of your main speakers to better blend with the output from your subwoofer. Thus the multiple drivers working at those frequencies will smooth out the variations -- the room modes -- ARC is trying to eliminate.


Now, look to the right of the "hump" in the Target or Calculated curves to where it flattens out. See that it is about 73dB over there? That's the basic volume level ARC has decided to Target for your setup. OK, now look in the LF/RF Calculated lines for where it crosses 73dB on the way down from the other side of the "hump" as the frequency goes down towards 20Hz. You will find it crosses 73dB at around 35Hz on your charts.


In fact you are only down a couple dB more from that at 30Hz. Thus it looks to me like ARC actually *AGREES* with you that your LF/RF speakers are good down to 30Hz!


And thus the hotter reading you are getting in their Measured curves below that probably does need to be trimmed as ARC has done it for you. In point of fact, ARC didn't trim it as much as it intended to at 20Hz. So you are at 70dB at 20Hz which is only 3dB below the 73dB basic Target level! Not bad at all.


Make more sense now?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14487459
> 
> 
> A couple of questions regarding my current ARC curves - attached.
> 
> 
> The movie run is on page 1 and the music on page 2 - 5000 Hz cutoff.
> 
> 
> Is the dip at 15000 Hz due to the way ARC measures high frequencies, or possibly due to the height I am using for the microphone or is it truly a room mode? I know all my speakers are not going to roll off at the same frequency... The resulting sound does not seem to be missing the high frequencies as shown, or maybe my ears just can't tell...the sound is great!
> 
> 
> For my music run ARC set the crossover at "full range" - why does it not use a flatter curve down to 20 Hz for the target? The curve looks the same as for the 40Hz curve for my movie setup that ARC picked for the front speakers.
> 
> 
> I think there is a glitch in the ARC calculations for music. I went back in a did a different calculation with the cinema and set the cutoff down to 25Hz from the ARC selected 40HZ and it set the dB level higher at 20 Hz for the target than it does with full range with the music. In addition, the system will not allow me to change the target numbers for the music setting in advanced mode, only the cinema - is this correct?
> 
> 
> Opinions please.



I'm not sure what ARC is doing with crossovers in your Music setup since you don't have a subwoofer in there for the audio to crossover to (which may be why it isn't letting you set them). I.e., it may be that ARC is actually ignoring the crossover value despite the chart. But this is probably a question you will need to put to Anthem tech support.


It could be a bug, so it is worth talking to them about. Even so, it looks to me like ARC has decided your front speakers are good down to 30Hz.


Since the dip at 15Khz is showing on all of your main speakers, I suspect that there is something about the room that is absorbing that frequency -- not a cancellation-style room mode so much as some surfaces that are absorbing it. I don't know enough about that to give you any advice on that.


Other than those two puzzles your curves look fine. You might want to try a calculation up around 12KHz Max EQ Frequency to see how much that helps reduce the dip at 15KHz. Or even try all the way to 15KHz.

--Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14477076
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I've gone ahead and ordered the Keyspan adapter. Hopefully that will enable me to fully install the firmware. I'll post back after delivery.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



I reinstalled XP on my older laptap and was able to get through the entire 1.33 upgrade in the first try with the Gigaware RS adapter. I still have the Keyspan adapter en route and will let you know if that works with my Vista laptop.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14487778
> 
> 
> I reinstalled XP on my older laptap and was able to get through the entire 1.33 upgrade in the first try with the Gigaware RS adapter. I still have the Keyspan adapter en route and will let you know if that works with my Vista laptop.



Cool! It could just be that the re-install of XP reset the drivers.


Anyway, at least now you are set for when your ARC upgrade arrives.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

Spent a while with Oppo customer support yesterday. We went through a factory default reset and everything adjustment they could think of, but my 980 will only pass the stereo SACD signal from a 5.0 or 3.0 SACD to my D2, although it passes the multichannel signal from a 5.1 SACD appropriately. Oppo thought they fixed this issue with the last firmware upgrade, but apparently my experience indicates that it's still an issue with the D2. They had an Onkyo prepro at the factory, and could not duplicate the issue with it. They said they would contact Anthem about possible further investigation of this strange incompatibility between the 980 and the D2. Does anyone out there have an Oppo 980 with the latest firmware who can specifically check this issue (comparing SACDs with 5.1 channels vs. SACDs with 5 or 3 channels)?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14487459
> 
> 
> A couple of questions regarding my current ARC curves - attached.
> 
> 
> The movie run is on page 1 and the music on page 2 - 5000 Hz cutoff.
> 
> 
> Is the dip at 15000 Hz due to the way ARC measures high frequencies, or possibly due to the height I am using for the microphone or is it truly a room mode? I know all my speakers are not going to roll off at the same frequency... The resulting sound does not seem to be missing the high frequencies as shown, or maybe my ears just can't tell...the sound is great!
> 
> 
> For my music run ARC set the crossover at "full range" - why does it not use a flatter curve down to 20 Hz for the target? The curve looks the same as for the 40Hz curve for my movie setup that ARC picked for the front speakers.
> 
> 
> I think there is a glitch in the ARC calculations for music. I went back in a did a different calculation with the cinema and set the cutoff down to 25Hz from the ARC selected 40HZ and it set the dB level higher at 20 Hz for the target than it does with full range with the music. In addition, the system will not allow me to change the target numbers for the music setting in advanced mode, only the cinema - is this correct?
> 
> 
> Opinions please.



No, its not a room mode as they are dependent on the dimensions of your room. There are 2 kinds of audio wavelenghts in an enclosed room. Standing and travelling waves. If your shortest room dimension is 8 ft(floor to ceiling), any frequency above 140 hertz(1130/8) is a traveling wave and below it, a standing wave. 15khz. has a wavelenght of just 0.9 inch therefore it can move easily within the room.


I suspect your HF measurement is inherent on your tweeter's response. Its not that bad as 90% of the sound that we hear are bunch up between 125hz. to 4khz. anyway. I won't worry about it.


Yes, The LF target curve is also a puzzle to me. Its ovious that the measured response of good subs extend below 20 hertz and still the target and resulting calculated curve attenuates the deep end response.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14487958
> 
> 
> Spent a while with Oppo customer support yesterday. We went through a factory default reset and everything adjustment they could think of, but my 980 will only pass the stereo SACD signal from a 5.0 or 3.0 SACD to my D2, although it passes the multichannel signal from a 5.1 SACD appropriately. Oppo thought they fixed this issue with the last firmware upgrade, but apparently my experience indicates that it's still an issue with the D2. They had an Onkyo prepro at the factory, and could not duplicate the issue with it. They said they would contact Anthem about possible further investigation of this strange incompatibility between the 980 and the D2. Does anyone out there have an Oppo 980 with the latest firmware who can specifically check this issue (comparing SACDs with 5.1 channels vs. SACDs with 5 or 3 channels)?



I had no trouble with the 980 and the Integra. However, a Pioneer DV-58 which uses the same chipset as the 980 has the same problem you describe with the D2. I mentioned it to Anthem about a month ago but they were surprised. Supposedly, Pioneer has a fix for their player but I have not yet seen it. (BTW, an Oppo 983 has no such problems with either the D2 or the Integra.)


----------



## AV-NUT-99

"I don't know what is going on with the Measured curves in your Music charts. I've not seen anything quite like that. It looks like the ARC application got confused as to the scale of those when drawing the chart. The Calculated curves look fine even in Music -- which leads me to believe the data itself is OK and this is just a charting problem."


PS - I guess i don't know how to do this quote stuff correctly.... but I think you get the idea.


Bob.


I tried the Auto detect and recalculate on a copy of the original data file, but no difference, still high raw data output in the music configuration. It almost looks like overall volume may have increased prior to starting the music config measuerements, but I am quite sure I did not change anything.


I have a couple more things i want to do in the room, then remeasure. If I still see the same difference in the music configuration data I will forward to Nick at Anthem. I went back and looked at my first measurement data and they look the same in bothe Music and cinema modes.


Thanks,


----------



## AaronG

Hi Guys,


I'm installing my new ARC-1 kit (for the D1), and when I run the program, I get an error message saying that it "failed to find a valid microphone" and to check the connection.

When I connected the mic via the usb, it was recognized and loaded by the computer.

Any ideas?


Thanks,

Aaron


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14487866
> 
> 
> Cool! It could just be that the re-install of XP reset the drivers.
> 
> 
> Anyway, at least now you are set for when your ARC upgrade arrives.
> 
> --Bob



Actually, I had two laptops with Vista. Laptop #1 is a newer one and that is the one that I originally attempted the upgrade with, unsuccessfully. Laptop #2 is an older laptop that used to be XP, but I recently upgraded to Vista. Since Laptop #1 didn't work with Vista, I reinstalled XP on laptop #2. I was then able to successfully completed the upgrade.


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AaronG* /forum/post/14489210
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> I'm installing my new ARC-1 kit (for the D1), and when I run the program, I get an error message saying that it "failed to find a valid microphone" and to check the connection.
> 
> When I connected the mic via the usb, it was recognized and loaded by the computer.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Aaron



Per the .txt file, did you:


Before clicking on setup.exe, add your two serialized files to the folder.


If the software installer asks you to program the serial number make sure the number on the chassis sticker, the one on the mic (first six digits on cal file), and the one you're entering match. You only get one chance!! If the wrong number is entered, the unit will have to come to the factory.


----------



## AaronG

Thanks for the response KCWolfPck.

I installed from the included CD. When I look at the contents of the CD, the two serialized files are there.

I was not asked to enter any serial #'s.

Am I supposed to drag those files somewhere else?


Thanks,

Aaron


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AaronG* /forum/post/14491243
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response KCWolfPck.
> 
> I installed from the included CD. When I look at the contents of the CD, the two serialized files are there.
> 
> I was not asked to enter any serial #'s.
> 
> Am I supposed to drag those files somewhere else?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Aaron



The things to check are:

1) Windows sees the ARC usb microphone (no bad usb socket).

2) The serial files numbers should match the serial number of you D2/D1 and your microphone serial.

3) The serial files should have been copied to same folder where the ARC software was installed.


----------



## venpra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14485601
> 
> 
> There are 3 things you need to do:
> 
> 
> 1) In the Velodyne settings menu, select Preset 6 as the "Default" preset in the lower left corner of the settings. Preset 6 disables the internal Velodyne EQ processing.
> 
> 
> 2) In the same settings menu, disable the internal cross over processing in the Velodyne. Go to the crossover frequency setting in the upper left of the settings page, Select that, and then hit Reset on the remote. All of the crossover related entries should now change to NA indicating the internal crossover is turned off. [You may need to UNLOCK the "Setup" column of entries to do this.]
> 
> 
> 3) Adjust the volume of the Velodyne. With Setup / Speaker Calibration / Noise Level set to measure roughly 75dB SPL in the Anthem, and with the subwoofer volume trim line in that menu set to 0dB, adjust the volume in the Velodyne settings menu page so that it too produces roughly 75dB SPL.
> 
> 
> When you have made those three adjustments on the Velodyne's settings menu page, Exit that page and be sure to Save your settings. This should return you to the main Velodyne screen which will now show that it is on Preset 6 with the volume you just set. Be sure to make the default Preset choice and the volume adjustment in the menu page like this (rather than on the main Velodyne front page) so that this Preset and volume is used automatically each time the Velodyne powers up.
> 
> 
> [Double check that the Velodyne's volume setting still produces 75dB SPL just to be sure. If not, go back into the Velodyne's settings menu and make the volume change for Preset 6 in there. Exit and Save results as before.]
> 
> 
> Preset 6, by factory default, also sets the servo setting in the Velodyne all the way up to the max value of 8 (Musical). If you have changed this in the past, my recommendation would be to set it back to 8. Again this is done on the settings menu page.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob. I will save your response in a safe place and will apply the instructions once I have ARC installed in my AVM-50. I will keep you posted.


Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Newbies! Read the ARC links in the first post of this thread!
*

Levesque has moved the collection of ARC related links I posted into the collection of links in the first post of this thread.


Since ARC is new and we are all still learning, and since many folks have posted good, fundamental questions about the magic that is ARC, that list is a lot longer than the other topics collected there -- at least for now. But most of the posts linked to are quite short -- kind of a collection of the Frequently Asked Questions.


I strongly recommend that new ARC users peruse that collection of links. It is by far the fastest way I know of for you to get up to speed on what we know about ARC and what we think is "best practice" for using it to get the best results. All of my tutorial posts since ARC V1.2.2 came out are also included in that list.


Happy ARCing, all!

--Bob


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14469187
> 
> 
> J. Fricano,
> 
> It occurs to me that your unusual setup for sub connection may also be a factor in ARC seeing an uncommonly low Room Gain in your room. I have to think about this some more, but if you *DO* try the experiment of just using the subwoofer output from the D2, check out what happens to Room Gain and let us know if you get a different number back.
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob, I took your advice and disconnected the "High Level Inputs" to the REL and remeasured and used the 12K limits as per your suggestion. The bass is MUCH improved, deeper and clearer and the highs are more natural sounding.Watched "Casino Royale" and WOW, what a difference. It never sounded this good. Tried some music and that too sounds good. The room gain increased from 2.1... to 2.578320(Movie) and from 2.257... to 2.352219(Music). If it were not for your curiosity regarding my ARC graphs and the high bass energy, the REL set up would not have been discussed and the suggestion to remove the high level input would not have been considered. I would never have been able to realize the true potential of this software and I am truly grateful for your input!! Here are my current graphs for the 12K setting;


----------



## AaronG

Thanks tranle,


Where do I look to see if the serial files were copied?


Aaron


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AaronG* /forum/post/14489210
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> I'm installing my new ARC-1 kit (for the D1), and when I run the program, I get an error message saying that it "failed to find a valid microphone" and to check the connection.
> 
> When I connected the mic via the usb, it was recognized and loaded by the computer.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Aaron



Are you running Windows XP or Windows Vista? Older stuff such as Windows 2000 lacks the audio input feature that ARC uses to see the microphone. If you are running Windows XP or Windows Vista and did a limited install (choosing to have only some components installed), then the audio stuff might not be in there. You can correct that after the fact without losing your current Windows setup: Use your Windows install disc and add components, selecting any audio media related stuff that you didn't install the first time.


The ARC application asks the ARC mic to identify itself. It gets something back that says, "I am an ARC microphone". It is possible the ARC mic is broken and the USB connection is getting setup but it isn't responding when asked to identify itself. If the mic itself is broken only Anthem tech support can help you.


But it might also be your USB connection being flaky. Are you using the cable that Anthem provided -- with no extensions? If you are connected to the computer through something like a USB hub, try directly connecting to the computer. Do you have any other USB devices connected? Try removing other USB devices while doing ARC Measurements.


Go into Device Manager (in My Computer > Properties) and see if it is showing any complaints for any of your hardware. Look in the USB portion of that list and also any audio device portions. If your computer has a built-in microphone, you may need to temporarily turn that off. The computer may be telling ARC that only the built-in microphone is working.


That's about all I can think of. If none of that helps you'd best give Anthem tech support a call.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AaronG* /forum/post/14492298
> 
> 
> Thanks tranle,
> 
> 
> Where do I look to see if the serial files were copied?
> 
> 
> Aaron



My Computer > Drive C > Program Files > Anthem


Look for the ARC application itself in there. In that same folder you should have the two licensing and calibration files which have file names made up of the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC microphone.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/14492296
> 
> 
> Hello Bob, I took your advice and disconnected the "High Level Inputs" to the REL and remeasured and used the 12K limits as per your suggestion. The bass is MUCH improved, deeper and clearer and the highs are more natural sounding.Watched "Casino Royale" and WOW, what a difference. It never sounded this good. Tried some music and that too sounds good. The room gain increased from 2.1... to 2.578320(Movie) and from 2.257... to 2.352219(Music). If it were not for your curiosity regarding my ARC graphs and the high bass energy, the REL set up would not have been discussed and the suggestion to remove the high level input would not have been considered. I would never have been able to realize the true potential of this software and I am truly grateful for your input!! Here are my current graphs for the 12K setting;



That's great! Your curves look much improved to me, too. I find it fascinating that altering the feed to your subs increased the Room Gain like this. I think that might have to do with phasing differences between the two separate feeds. Your Room Gain is still lower than many are reporting here, but the curves look good, and of course the most important thing is how it actually SOUNDS.


Anyway, I think we've found a home for another batch of these:







































--Bob


----------



## AaronG

Hi Bob,


I'm running windows 2000 (it was the closest computer to my setup with the least # of peripherals).

Is there anything I can do with 2000 or should I just bring down a different computer?


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14487958
> 
> 
> Spent a while with Oppo customer support yesterday. We went through a factory default reset and everything adjustment they could think of, but my 980 will only pass the stereo SACD signal from a 5.0 or 3.0 SACD to my D2, although it passes the multichannel signal from a 5.1 SACD appropriately. Oppo thought they fixed this issue with the last firmware upgrade, but apparently my experience indicates that it's still an issue with the D2. They had an Onkyo prepro at the factory, and could not duplicate the issue with it. They said they would contact Anthem about possible further investigation of this strange incompatibility between the 980 and the D2. Does anyone out there have an Oppo 980 with the latest firmware who can specifically check this issue (comparing SACDs with 5.1 channels vs. SACDs with 5 or 3 channels)?



Thanks for following up on this. Please do give Anthem a call as well and alert them that they should be hearing from Oppo. Based on some of the other reports here, this may be a flaky part of the handshake -- working for some people and not for others.


Anthem is working on software with new HDMI drivers right now -- slated for the V1.34 release. That won't change the limits of what the Anthems can accept, but if there's something better the Anthems could be doing during the handshake to avoid confusing some players like this, now would be a great time to nail that down.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AaronG* /forum/post/14492586
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I'm running windows 2000 (it was the closest computer to my setup with the least # of peripherals).
> 
> Is there anything I can do with 2000 or should I just bring down a different computer?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



You can use ARC on Windows 2000 to view files, do Calculations with different Targets, and even do Uploads. You just can't use it to do Measurements.


The audio input framework used by the ARC application to capture data from the ARC microphone doesn't exist for Windows 2000.


You'll need to use a different computer or, if this computer supports it, change the OS to XP or Vista.

--bob


----------



## AaronG

I can borrow a laptop that's running Vista.

Is there anything I need to watch out for with Vista?

Also, is there any problem with starting over with a different computer (or does something from ARC get married to the computer)?


Thanks again,

Aaron


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AaronG* /forum/post/14492716
> 
> 
> I can borrow a laptop that's running Vista.
> 
> Is there anything I need to watch out for with Vista?
> 
> Also, is there any problem with starting over with a different computer (or does something from ARC get married to the computer)?
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Aaron



There's no problem starting over with a different computer. Just do the ARC install on the new computer the way you did it the first time.


There are lots of things to watch out for with Vista (I'm a Mac person, so I'm biased), but none of them are specific to ARC.


If you are planning on using a USB to serial adapter to connect to the Anthem, then make sure you get the latest drivers from the adapter maker's web site for your version of OS. If you are CHANGING from one adapter to a newer one, I suggest you tell Vista to uninstall the drivers for the old one before you install the newer one. Folks here seem to be having the best luck with the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter.


Keep in mind that you may want to run ARC multiple times as you learn more or change things in your room or speaker setup. There will also likely be ARC software upgrades as time goes on. So if you are using a borrowed computer, consider whether you will have access to it to re-run things when you want to.

--Bob


----------



## AaronG

Thanks again for your help!


----------



## TJG55

Originally,using a D-2, Paradigm S100, CC590, Servo-15, ADPs and S-20s got xovers of front 40, center 160, sub 45, side 115 and rear 55

Then with AVM-50, ARC upgrade AND new S100s and S-15 (and replaced Lexicon LX-7 with Anthem 5 and 2 channel), then got

F 45, c 60, and sub 120, (sides and rears stayed same throughout)

Thought this might change with break-in. After 2 wks of 24 hr use got

F 45, c 60, sub 65.

What do any of you think?

tjg


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/14492967
> 
> 
> Originally,using a D-2, Paradigm S100, CC590, Servo-15, ADPs and S-20s got xovers of front 40, center 160, sub 45, side 115 and rear 55
> 
> Then with AVM-50, ARC upgrade AND new S100s and S-15 (and replaced Lexicon LX-7 with Anthem 5 and 2 channel), then got
> 
> F 45, c 60, and sub 120, (sides and rears stayed same throughout)
> 
> Thought this might change with break-in. After 2 wks of 24 hr use got
> 
> F 45, c 60, sub 65.
> 
> What do any of you think?
> 
> tjg



It's hard to tell just from the list of crossover numbers but I'd be worried that your sub crossover is too low -- that you are losing some LFE content both in the original D2 setup and in the latest AVM-50 measurements. The latest sub crossover at 65Hz is at the low end of what I'd be comfortable with and the original D2 sub crossover of 45Hz is too low.


From what we've seen here, ARC uses low crossovers for the sub in two cases: (1) The internal crossover inside the subwoofer has been left on by mistake, and (2) there is a nasty room dip in the normal crossover range that ARC sees in the sub response and is trying to avoid. Either of these represent situations that ought to be corrected (and then re-Measure).


The charts would show more info.


The big difference between your 2 AVM-50 measurements may represent that your stuff was on the edge of two possible solutions and the changes due to speaker break-in, or just due to subtle Measurement differences, caused ARC to jump over to the low crossover solution the second time.


I take it you are using ARC V1.2.5 for all of this right? If you are using the ARC V1.2.6 "test" version, be aware that it was withdrawn -- it has problems.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

B

Don't think I was losing LFE info as LFE bypass was engaged. Using correct version software. System setup was correct in all situations. will try to post graphs later, on different computer for now.

tjg


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV-NUT-99* /forum/post/14488570
> 
> 
> PS - I guess i don't know how to do this quote stuff correctly.... but I think you get the idea.



If you want to Quote part or all of someone's message in your reply, just click on the "Quote" button at the lower right of that person's message.


You will be presented with a text entry window that is pre-loaded with the text of the other person's message -- surrounded by "Quote" tags at either end. You can edit the Quoted text the same way you edit any new text you are typing in -- for example to cut the Quoted part down to a smaller portion as I did when quoting you above. Just remember that you need to leave the Quote tags (the stuff in square brackets) at BOTH ends for the Quote to work right.


Click on Preview Post to see if it is working the way you intended, and if you like what you see you can then click on Submit Reply.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/14493208
> 
> 
> B
> 
> Don't think I was losing LFE info as LFE bypass was engaged. Using correct version software. System setup was correct in all situations. will try to post graphs later, on different computer for now.
> 
> tjg



Did YOU turn on LFE Bypass or did ARC do that for you?


I'm not quite sure what the interaction is between LFE Bypass and ARC's processing -- e.g., whether the ARC room correction stuff gets applied to the higher frequencies sent to the sub due to that Bypass.


I've got it on my list to ask Nick when he gets back from vacation.

--Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck

I don't think my set-up is unique in this respect, but I've been unable to find in this thread what people are doing for mic placements when they have no actual "center" seat.


I have a 4 seat theater couch that has two recliners in the middle, flanked by 2 wedges, flanked by 2 end recliners. I am usually sitting in the left of the two middle chairs.


How I envisioned the mic placements would be to do the 1st one directly in the middle, then the remaining four and the actual 4 seating positions. However, my main concern with this practice would be that mic position 1 would be too close to mic positions 2 & 3.


How have others done/would you do given my seating:


----------



## TJG55

I always defeat the LFE xover, would rather have the S100s got down to 40hz range and keep sub as low as possible maintaining proper integration.

tjg


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14493324
> 
> 
> I don't think my set-up is unique in this respect, but I've been unable to find in this thread what people are doing for mic placements when they have no actual "center" seat.
> 
> 
> I have a 4 seat theater couch that has two recliners in the middle, flanked by 2 wedges, flanked by 2 end recliners. I am usually sitting in the left of the two middle chairs.
> 
> 
> How I envisioned the mic placements would be to do the 1st one directly in the middle, then the remaining four and the actual 4 seating positions. However, my main concern with this practice would be that mic position 1 would be too close to mic positions 2 & 3.



Keep in mind that the mic positions don't actually have to reflect seating positions. You are sampling the ROOM in the vicinity of the seating positions.


The trickiest thing about your setup is that it appears the far seat in the picture is up against the wall.


What I'd recommend is that you do mic #1 in the dead center. Then #2 and #3 over the wedges or just outwards of those (plan on 30" spacing). Then #4 and #5 over or just outbound of the outermost chair arms (still about 30" spacing on the straight line to the #2 and #3 positions). I think #4 and #5 ought to be closer to the screen than the other three to keep from being too close to your Surrounds on the wall -- perhaps towards the front edge of the seat cushion.


But if that far seat is really up against the wall then the #4 and #5 positions are tricky. You don't want one up against the wall or that fireplace. So swing the position back in so that it is more in front of those outer two seats and still 30" or so from #2 and #3.


Anyway, that's how I'd do it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/14493468
> 
> 
> I always defeat the LFE xover, would rather have the S100s got down to 40hz range and keep sub as low as possible maintaining proper integration.
> 
> tjg



Well we'll need to find out from Anthem just how that works when ARC is in use. ARC might ignore that Bypass completely, or do something more complicated with it. I just don't know.


But I'd be concerned that you might be getting no benefit from ARC room correction of the higher LFE frequencies -- which is a pretty crucial part of the Room Correction puzzle.


Keep in mind that there's no reason why the crossovers need be the same for the front speakers and the subwoofer. ARC handles overlaps in those for you just fine. Bass energy coming in on the main channels will go to the main speakers down to the crossover. A higher sub crossover doesn't change that so there's no integration issue on that front.


But with a higher sub crossover, the LFE bass energy gets to the sub without attenuation -- and ARC applies Room Correction as well. What I fear is that a low sub crossover but with LFE Bypass turned on may be restricting your ARC correction on the subwoofer only to the lowest frequencies.


------------------------------------------


I take it you are leaving LFE Bypass on while doing the Measurements, correct? I don't know that we've had any reports yet from folks comparing Measurement with LFE Bypass ON and OFF. I'll be curious to find out how ARC handles that.


===================================


ETA: OK, I sent an email to Nick on this. I'm not sure when he's back from vacation. If it's going to be a while, Piero may handle it with the ARC engineers. I'll let you know what I hear back.

--Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14493516
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the mic positions don't actually have to reflect seating positions. You are sampling the ROOM in the vicinity of the seating positions.
> 
> 
> The trickiest thing about your setup is that it appears the far seat in the picture is up against the wall.



Ah....I thought it was ideal to get the seating positions as there was all this talk about ear height and 6" - 1' from the seat back. If actual seating positions don't need to be measured, then I can easily figure something our that will be symmetrical and not be too close to any reflective surfaces.


FYI - The couch is centered in the room, so there is similar space between the wall and the outside seat as there is between the end of the carpet and the outside seat on the opposite side.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14493857
> 
> 
> Ah....I thought it was ideal to get the seating positions as there was all this talk about ear height and 6" - 1' from the seat back. If actual seating positions don't need to be measured, then I can easily figure something our that will be symmetrical and not be too close to any reflective surfaces.
> 
> 
> FYI - The couch is centered in the room, so there is similar space between the wall and the outside seat as there is between the end of the carpet and the outside seat on the opposite side.



Seated ear height is crucial. Take pains on that. The vertical pattern of treble frequencies from most speakers is usually much more constrained than the horizontal pattern.


The 1 foot thing is to keep the mic from hearing too much in the way of reflection from the surface near it. That's just a Rule of Thumb by the way -- 1 foot seems to be working for people. Or raise the mic a few inches so that the tip of the mic is above the seat back. Or recline the seat back while taking measurements.


Similarly you don't want the mic too close to a wall or other surface. I'm not sure how close is too close, but I'd think you'd want it at least 1 foot out from the wall. The outer mic position near your far seat is going to have to be adjusted so that it is not right up against the wall.


And the #1 mic position needs to be centered, and at the primary listening distance, because that's the one ARC uses to set the basic speaker volume levels. That location has to serve the needs of all your seats, and so a centered position, at the primary listening distance, is your best bet.


Other than that, you want the mic positions to be representative of the portion of the room where you might be sitting. I've had best luck spreading things a bit wider than the sofa length so that the seating positions are inside the area measured by ARC.


Space the mics at least 24" apart (I like 30 inches), and alternate either side of center for each new position. If you don't have enough room width to do this without the outer mic positions being too close to a wall or speaker, my recommendation is that you swing the outer two positions in a bit closer to the screen.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

Well, it's been a while since I posted my measurements. Actually, I have not posted any since 1.1. So, now since we are on 1.2.5, I decided it's was time for me to post some of my measurements. As the title indicates, I have measurements. So, here they are. Please take a look and let me know what you think. No punches held.










First Measurement (5khz no sub eq):


















Second Measurement (5khz sub eq):


















Third Measurement (12khz no sub eq):


















Fourth Measurement (12khz sub eq):


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14493968
> 
> 
> Well, it's been a while since I posted my measurements. Actually, I have not posted any since 1.1. So, now since we are on 1.2.5, I decided it's was time for me to post some of my measurements. As the title indicates, I have measurements. So, here they are. Please take a look and let me know what you think. No punches held.



First off, there's enough improvement in your 12KHz curves -- without problems showing up elsewhere -- that I think they are definitely worth a listen. That's the easy part.


Now two other things jump out and I suspect they result from the same thing -- which is that you've got a pretty thorny room cancellation null between 35Hz and 100Hz, with the worst of it between 35Hz and 50Hz.


I suspect you've applied some room treatment to help with that, and as a result there seems to be no Room Gain at all in your curves (no "hump" near the crossover). Is that how ARC did it, or did you lower the Room Gain value yourself?


Second, ARC is treating the dip at 50Hz as reason to lower the crossover in your non-EQ'd subwoofer. When you EQ the subwoofer, that dip is filled in enough that ARC brings the sub crossover out a bit further. But the impact on the rest of your curves appears to be minor (since you've got decent low frequency response from your other speakers). Which suggests to me that EITHER WAY could work well for you.


For example, the 68dB point (5dB below the basic Target level) is around 35Hz in your LF/RF and around 80Hz in your Center REGARDLESS of whether you've got the subwoofer's internal EQ turned on.


So I would expect the actual listening experience to be very similar between the two different 12KHz setups. In fact the improvement due to getting a little more blending from a little higher subwoofer exposure might be negated by the extra digital processing going on in the EQ. It's tough to know.


I'd try both of the 12KHz setups and pick whichever one feels better to you.


------------------------------------


I'm a little more worried about the lack of Room Gain. Honestly I don't know how important that is going to be. If ARC really is deciding on a 0dB Room Gain, you might try "forcing" something a little higher than that -- say 2dB, and see what it sounds like. You can do this without having to re-Measure. You might want to do it only for Movies.


----------------------------------


ETA: Depending upon what we discover about LFE Bypass related issues, the slightly higher sub crossover of the EQ'd subwoofer may be better for your LFE. That's another consideration. I.e., when trying to choose listen both to movies (and thus LFE content), and music (bass steered to sub from main speakers but no LFE content).

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14494178
> 
> 
> First off, there's enough improvement in your 12KHz curves -- without problems showing up elsewhere -- that I think they are definitely worth a listen. That's the easy part.
> 
> 
> Now two other things jump out and I suspect they result from the same thing -- which is that you've got a pretty thorny room cancellation null between 35Hz and 100Hz, with the worst of it between 35Hz and 50Hz.
> 
> 
> I suspect you've applied some room treatment to help with that, and as a result there seems to be no Room Gain at all in your curves (no "hump" near the crossover). Is that how ARC did it, or did you lower the Room Gain value yourself?
> 
> 
> Second, ARC is treating the dip at 50Hz as reason to lower the crossover in your non-EQ'd subwoofer. When you EQ the subwoofer, that dip is filled in enough that ARC brings the sub crossover out a bit further. But the impact on the rest of your curves appears to be minor (since you've got decent low frequency response from your other speakers). Which suggests to me that EITHER WAY could work well for you.
> 
> 
> For example, the 68dB point (5dB below the basic Target level) is around 35Hz in your LF/RF and around 80Hz in your Center REGARDLESS of whether you've got the subwoofer's internal EQ turned on.
> 
> 
> So I would expect the actual listening experience to be very similar between the two different 12KHz setups. In fact the improvement due to getting a little more blending from a little higher subwoofer exposure might be negated by the extra digital processing going on in the EQ. It's tough to know.
> 
> 
> I'd try both of the 12KHz setups and pick whichever one feels better to you.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I'm a little more worried about the lack of Room Gain. Honestly I don't know how important that is going to be. If ARC really is deciding on a 0dB Room Gain, you might try "forcing" something a little higher than that -- say 2dB, and see what it sounds like. You can do this without having to re-Measure. You might want to do it only for Movies.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: Depending upon what we discover about LFE Bypass related issues, the slightly higher sub crossover of the EQ'd subwoofer may be better for your LFE. That's another consideration. I.e., when trying to choose listen both to movies (and thus LFE content), and music (bass steered to sub from main speakers but no LFE content).
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks for looking over my results.


I have loaded the 12khz with the sub eq on, and I have been listening to that for a while now. I will try 12khz with no eq probably next week. So far, I am liking what I'm hearing with the 12khz with sub eq.


As for the cancellation, you are correct that I have installed some acoustic treatments to help with the cancellation. At this point, I don't know what else I can try to fix that. I have tried moving speakers around. It might be something that I have to live with. ARC has never applied room gain since the first day I received and ran it. My room gain has always been zero.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14494684
> 
> 
> ARC has never applied room gain since the first day I received and ran it. My room gain has always been zero.



What I suspect is going on is that ARC is not coming up with a sensible answer for Room Gain when it looks at the Measurements and thus it is using 0dB as a "safe" default (rather than just guessing what the natural Room Gain for your room ought to be). This is just speculation on my part.


Alternatively, ARC may have decided that the work it needs to do to remove "bad" room response doesn't allow it to retain "good" Room Gain at the same time. I think this answer is less likely.


It is my understanding that all real listening rooms SHOULD show some natural Room Gain, and thus we ought to look at the 0dB result ARC came up with as a problem needing further investigation.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14494758
> 
> 
> What I suspect is going on is that ARC is not coming up with a sensible answer for Room Gain when it looks at the Measurements and thus it is using 0dB as a "safe" default. This is just a guess.
> 
> --Bob



Is a 0 room gain normal? What is the room gain actually doing?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14494781
> 
> 
> Is a 0 room gain normal? What is the room gain actually doing?



Room Gain is the natural room response when playing stuff in a real listening room that is acoustically problem free. It is one factor that leads to the "good" impression that you are listening in a good sounding room, and not in an anechoic chamber or outside. It makes the audio system sound more natural as, among other things, it makes the audio system blend better into what the room sounds like when other noises happen, such as when you talk. Visually it is the "hump" near the crossover region in the Target curves you'll see in other ARC charts posted here.


People who mix audio tracks expect some Room Gain to be present in the listening rooms.


ARC attempts to detect the inherent Room Gain of your room so as to retain that "good" room response even as it is working hard to eliminate all the "bad" room response characteristics of your setup.


Most posters here are reporting ARC Room Gain values in the range of 2 to 4dB.


So it would appear that a 0dB Room Gain result is not normal, and indicates a problem of some sort.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14494896
> 
> 
> Room Gain is the natural room response when playing stuff in a real listening room that is acoustically problem free. It is one factor that leads to the "good" impression that you are listening in a good sounding room, and not in an anechoic chamber or outside. It makes the audio system sound more natural as, among other things, it makes the audio system blend better into what the room sounds like when other noises happen, such as when you talk. Visually it is the "hump" near the crossover region in the Target curves you'll see in other ARC charts posted here.
> 
> 
> People who mix audio tracks expect some Room Gain to be present in the listening rooms.
> 
> 
> ARC attempts to detect the inherent Room Gain of your room so as to retain that "good" room response even as it is working hard to eliminate all the "bad" room response characteristics of your setup.
> 
> 
> Most posters here are reporting ARC Room Gain values in the range of 2 to 4dB.
> 
> 
> So it would appear that a 0dB Room Gain result is not normal, and indicates a problem of some sort.
> 
> --Bob



Ok. Thanks for the explaination. I wonder if the lack of room gain is due to my oddly shape room. Anyway, I will do some more playing around to see if I can improve anything.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14494931
> 
> 
> Ok. Thanks for the explaination. I wonder if the lack of room gain is due to my oddly shape room. Anyway, I will do some more playing around to see if I can improve anything.



Yeah, we don't really know enough of what's going on under the hood with ARC.


One thought I had is that ARC might have decided that your room has a NEGATIVE room gain due to the big hole from 35Hz to 100Hz. This doesn't make acoustical sense so ARC uses 0dB instead.


As I mentioned before, you can tell ARC to "force" an unnatural Room Gain upon your room -- i.e., one that differs from what ARC detects itself. Put a value in the Room Gain field (Targets window) and make sure the "force" check box is checked. Accept those changes and re-Calculate. You might try a 2.0 value to start and see what that does to your Target and Calculated curves. The higher the value the bigger the "hump". We are not sure but it appears to be calibrated in dB of the "height" of the "hump".


It's not obvious what the right value should be here. Looking at your Measured curves by eye, I can't figure out what the "real" Room Gain is either. Of course ARC has more info to work with (since those Measured curves are only an average of the different mic positions).

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14494963
> 
> 
> Yeah, we don't really know enough of what's going on under the hood with ARC.
> 
> 
> One thought I had is that ARC might have decided that your room has a NEGATIVE room gain due to the big hole from 35Hz to 100Hz. This doesn't make acoustical sense so ARC uses 0dB instead.
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, you can tell ARC to "force" an unnatural Room Gain upon your room -- i.e., one that differs from what ARC detects itself. Put a value in the Room Gain field (Targets window) and make sure the "force" check box is checked. Accept those changes and re-Calculate. You might try a 2.0 value to start and see what that does to your Target and Calculated curves. The higher the value the bigger the "hump". We are not sure but it appears to be calibrated in dB of the "height" of the "hump".
> 
> --Bob



Ok. I will give that a try. Thanks Bob.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14494978
> 
> 
> Ok. I will give that a try. Thanks Bob.



Here are my results after forcing 2.0 room gain for 12khz:


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14495156
> 
> 
> Here are my results after forcing 2.0 room gain for 12khz:



Those all look better to me except for the Right Front near 80Hz. Your black hole of a room null is just too deep there and ARC couldn't counter it. You are up another 1 dB there from the prior 12KHz run, but still 4dB below the new Target curve.


One thing to check would be to do the same Room Gain calculation using the 5KHz (with EQ) run you have. That would check the possibility that the problem is that you have pushed Max EQ Frequency up too far (at 12KHz) not leaving ARC with enough resources to fill in that "hump" for the RF speaker. If it looks better at 5KHz, you could then try in between values like 8 or 10KHz to see if you can find the point where that Right Front at 80Hz becomes a problem. Of course if even the 5KHz looks bad there, there's nothing for it but to live with it or find some other way to tackle that hole in your room.


However, even WITH this 80Hz problem in the RF speaker, I think these Calculated curves look better to me than your prior 12KHz (with EQ) result. So if you can't find a lower EQ frequency that helps both ends, I'd be tempted to give this most recent one (12KHz with EQ and with forced 2dB Room Gain) an Upload and a listen.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14495284
> 
> 
> Those all look better to me except for the Right Front near 80Hz. Your black hole of a room null is just too deep there and ARC couldn't counter it. You are up another 1 dB there from the prior 12KHz run, but still 4dB below the new Target curve.
> 
> 
> One thing to check would be to do the same Room Gain calculation using the 5KHz (with EQ) run you have. That would check the possibility that the problem is that you have pushed Max EQ Frequency up too far (at 12KHz) not leaving ARC with enough resources to fill in that "hump" for the RF speaker. If it looks better at 5KHz, you could then try in between values like 8 or 10KHz to see if you can find the point where that Right Front at 80Hz becomes a problem. Of course if even the 5KHz looks bad there, there's nothing for it but to live with it or find some other way to tackle that hole in your room.
> 
> 
> However, even WITH this 80Hz problem in the RF speaker, I think these Calculated curves look better to me than your prior 12KHz (with EQ) result. So if you can't find a lower EQ frequency that helps both ends, I'd be tempted to give this most recent one (12KHz with EQ and with forced 2dB Room Gain) an Upload and a listen.
> 
> --Bob



It seems to me that the 2.0 room gain has caused the higher frequencies to drop off a little.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14495333
> 
> 
> It seems to me that the 2.0 room gain has caused the higher frequencies to drop off a little.



Yes it has, but only a couple dB. ARC is scrambling to do all that's being asked of it.


You've got a tough one!

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14495505
> 
> 
> Yes it has, but only a couple dB. ARC is scrambling to do all that's being asked of it.
> 
> 
> You've got a tough one!
> 
> --Bob



I did the 5khz with the 2.0 room gain, and it looks better to me.


----------



## obie_fl

Well here's a new one... I think.


Just installed two new subwoofers. I now have two 15" MFWs from AV123 and my original SVS PB12plus2. An insane about of subwoofage for my 23x14 HT. I spent a lot of time last night getting the levels and phase dialed in and played around with some LFE demos that sounded insane.


So today I go and run a new set of ARC measurement and the subwoofer drops off dramatically starting at 50hz...what the heck? My previous measurements with just the SVS was going strong right off the chart at 20hz. Anybody have any ideas?


I checked all three subs and they all kick in and have their crossovers disabled. I don't believe it is phase cancellation as it is a steep 25db roll off right at 50hz. This one has me baffled but I guess I'll have to do some more measurements with just one sub and see if I get flat down to 20hz again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14495641
> 
> 
> I did the 5khz with the 2.0 room gain, and it looks better to me.



I agree. So it's pretty clear its a resource issue. You might try inching up a bit to, say 8KHz or 9KHz to see how far you can go before that 80Hz hole in the RF speaker goes bad.


I'd love to see what ARC would do with your room if you REMOVED the room treatments you have now. That would make it pretty clear just how bad the problem is.


I mean I'm thinking "cone of silence" here -- like someone leaning on one of your speakers could belch in that room and nobody else in the room would hear it....










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/14495777
> 
> 
> Well here's a new one... I think.
> 
> 
> Just installed two new subwoofers. I now have two 15" MFWs from AV123 and my original SVS PB12plus2. An insane about of subwoofage for my 23x14 HT. I spent a lot of time last night getting the levels and phase dialed in and played around with some LFE demos that sounded insane.
> 
> 
> So today I go and run a new set of ARC measurement and the subwoofer drops off dramatically starting at 50hz...what the heck? My previous measurements with just the SVS was going strong right off the chart at 20hz. Anybody have any ideas?
> 
> 
> I checked all three subs and they all kick in and have their crossovers disabled. I don't believe it is phase cancellation as it is a steep 25db roll off right at 50hz. This one has me baffled but I guess I'll have to do some more measurements with just one sub and see if I get flat down to 20hz again.



Sounds to me like you've got a subsonic filter turned on in these subs. 50Hz is pretty high for that to kick in, but maybe you used the wrong control to turn off their internal crossover and instead raised their subsonic filter to its highest frequency.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14496581
> 
> 
> I agree. So it's pretty clear its a resource issue. You might try inching up a bit to, say 8KHz or 9KHz to see how far you can go before that 80Hz hole in the RF speaker goes bad.
> 
> 
> I'd love to see what ARC would do with your room if you REMOVED the room treatments you have now. That would make it pretty clear just how bad the problem is.
> 
> 
> I mean I'm thinking "cone of silence" here -- like someone leaning on one of your speakers could belch in that room and nobody else in the room would hear it....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I went up to 10khz, and it started getting strange. I also noticed that the Center Channel was not as smooth. However, 8khz seems to be pretty good. Actually, it looked better than the 5khz. So, I guess I will stick with 8khz.


----------



## barhoram

Any thought on what might be the cause for these horrible blacks on my new Sony Black Pearl?


This is the beginning of the Diva scene from the Fifth Element. The Curtains (shown here) and back of the Diva should be black extremely black. Instead, I see blue/purple blotches instead of black.











I calibrated the projector first with the D2's internal patters, the my 59AVI in the video setup menu. I only changed brightness and contrast slightly from 50. I've done nothing to the more advanced settings (gamma, etc in either the projector or D2). Double checked Colorspace, and RGB's match between the two. Anythign else outside the projector??


I posted this over in the VW60 thread as well...appears someone had a similar issue and is having the projector swapped for a new one.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14496610
> 
> 
> Sounds to me like you've got a subsonic filter turned on in these subs. 50Hz is pretty high for that to kick in, but maybe you used the wrong control to turn off their internal crossover and instead raised their subsonic filter to its highest frequency.
> 
> --Bob



Nope no subsonic filters on. I played around some more as long as I just use the SVS or the MFW stack by itself things are fine. I guess it is cancellation but I'm talking a 25db drop from 50 to 40hz. Turn one or the other off and I'm flat to 20hz. I played with the phase briefly on the SVS but it is such a pain being forced to do five positions just to get a graph. Please Anthem if you are reading this give us a quick look of any speaker at one position.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/14497537
> 
> 
> Nope no subsonic filters on. I played around some more as long as I just use the SVS or the MFW stack by itself things are fine. I guess it is cancellation but I'm talking a 25db drop from 50 to 40hz. Turn one or the other off and I'm flat to 20hz. I played with the phase briefly on the SVS but it is such a pain being forced to do five positions just to get a graph. Please Anthem if you are reading this give us a quick look of any speaker at one position.



You are right. No subsonic filter. OK, moving right along:


Try reversing the polarity on either the SVS or the MFW stack (just one of them). If you don't have a polarity switch, try reversing the polarity of the wires feeding one or the other (but not both). You will likely have to swing phase around 180 degrees on that one as well to get it matched back up with your LF speaker. It may be that you've got the polarity wrong on one of them and you are compensating by running the phase 180 degrees around on that one so that it still matches the LF speaker in the vicinity of the crossover. That would explain the severe cancellation you are seeing below the crossover region when driving both the SVS and the stack together. Reversing Polarity reverses the wave form at all frequencies, whereas Phase operates only up near the crossover.


If that doesn't do it, then the only other thing I can think of is that the combo of subs is putting the wrong load on the subwoofer output of the Anthem. But that shouldn't be possible for the line level connection you are using.


You can speed up ARC runs by telling it to only include the LF/RF and subwoofer for the test run. You'll still have to take 5 positions, but you don't have to be so precise about getting the mic height correct as all you care about is the subwoofer curve. Heck you can be pretty loose about the mic positions themselves. In fact, while diagnosing this, you might be able to just leave the mic at position #1 and take all 5 measurements right there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14497256
> 
> 
> Any thought on what might be the cause for these horrible blacks on my new Sony Black Pearl?
> 
> 
> This is the beginning of the Diva scene from the Fifth Element. The Curtains (shown here) and back of the Diva should be black extremely black. Instead, I see blue/purple blotches instead of black.
> 
> 
> I calibrated the projector first with the D2's internal patters, the my 59AVI in the video setup menu. I only changed brightness and contrast slightly from 50. I've done nothing to the more advanced settings (gamma, etc in either the projector or D2). Double checked Colorspace, and RGB's match between the two. Anythign else outside the projector??
> 
> 
> I posted this over in the VW60 thread as well...appears someone had a similar issue and is having the projector swapped for a new one.



You say you are using a Pioneer Elite DV-59avi standard DVD player? Do you happen to be using it at HDMI 480i? If so, be aware that there's a problem with the HDMI 480i output from the 59avi when using Pioneer's factory default settings. You need to make some changes to the default settings to get blacks and whites correct.


To see if this is your problem, try HDMI 480p from the player to the Anthem. Pioneer's factory defaults (Direct mode I believe they call it) work fine for HDMI 480p from it. If that works better, then check out the 59avi thread in the standard DVD forum here for details of what needs to be adjusted in the 59avi's settings to get proper HDMI 480i out of it. The changes are not tough to make, but they are by no means intuitive.


-----------------------------------------


It looks to me like you are seeing Blacker than Black detail improperly raised up into visibility. The most common reason for this is that you are sending Studio RGB (Black = 16) to a device that thinks it will be receiving Extended RGB (Black = 0). When setting up Black/White levels, you can fool yourself into thinking you have fixed this by lowering Brightness enough to hide those 16 steps of below black, but odds are it won't really work that well.


Note that you do NOT have to have RGB out from the Anthem if you have RGB in or YCbCr out if you have YCbCr in. Try using YCbCr if you have been using RGB.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14497053
> 
> 
> I went up to 10khz, and it started getting strange. I also noticed that the Center Channel was not as smooth. However, 8khz seems to be pretty good. Actually, it looked better than the 5khz. So, I guess I will stick with 8khz.



That could be a good compromise for you.


--------------------------------------


Is there anything "custom" about your speakers? Is it even possible that whoever built the internal crossover in them might have screwed it up so that the bass and low-midrange elements in the speaker itself are being driven out of phase?


Do you bi-wire to those speakers? Is it possible that you've got the polarity reversed between the wires driving the bass element and the wires driving the low-midrange?


Have you tried any other speakers in that room to see if they exhibit the same problem? It's not all that likely, but if your speakers are screwed up internally that may explain why you've had no luck battling this as a room correction issue.

--Bob


----------



## jlwine

Bob,


I just wanted to give you a quick update. After, working with this more and more and talking with Piero at Anthem--I'm fairly confident that it is a hardware issue and have thus sent it in for repair. I will let you know what I find out.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlwine* /forum/post/14499529
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I just wanted to give you a quick update. After, working with this more and more and talking with Piero at Anthem--I'm fairly confident that it is a hardware issue and have thus sent it in for repair. I will let you know what I find out.



Thanks for the update. Please do report back what happens.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14497611
> 
> 
> Try reversing the polarity on either the SVS or the MFW stack (just one of them). If you don't have a polarity switch, try reversing the polarity of the wires feeding one or the other (but not both). You will likely have to swing phase around 180 degrees on that one as well to get it matched back up with your LF speaker. It may be that you've got the polarity wrong on one of them and you are compensating by running the phase 180 degrees around on that one so that it still matches the LF speaker in the vicinity of the crossover. That would explain the severe cancellation you are seeing below the crossover region when driving both the SVS and the stack together. Reversing Polarity reverses the wave form at all frequencies, whereas Phase operates only up near the crossover.



Hmm... I have to chew on this a bit. No polarity switch on any of the amps. so I would have to somehow rig up a temporary RCA connector to reverse the polarity. Since the crossovers are bypassed in all three subs how would this affect the phase adjustments on the amps? I have been adjusting the phase of each sub to my mains. I guess I need to try adjusting between the subs themselves and then use the D2 phase to match with the mains. I wasn't really planning on keeping the SVS but I'm curious enough that I want to figure this out.



> Quote:
> You can speed up ARC runs by telling it to only include the LF/RF and subwoofer for the test run. You'll still have to take 5 positions, but you don't have to be so precise about getting the mic height correct as all you care about is the subwoofer curve. Heck you can be pretty loose about the mic positions themselves. In fact, while diagnosing this, you might be able to just leave the mic at position #1 and take all 5 measurements right there.
> 
> --Bob



Yep already doing just the three speakers, I guess I'll try just one position and see if that works too. I really wish Anthem would add a bit of diagnostic tools to the software...heck I'd even pay for a separate analysis program to use with the mic. AFAIK none of the popular programs such as REW, TrueRTA or ETF use USB mics.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/14499932
> 
> 
> Hmm... I have to chew on this a bit. No polarity switch on any of the amps. so I would have to somehow rig up a temporary RCA connector to reverse the polarity. Since the crossovers are bypassed in all three subs how would this affect the phase adjustments on the amps? I have been adjusting the phase of each sub to my mains. I guess I need to try adjusting between the subs themselves and then use the D2 phase to match with the mains. I wasn't really planning on keeping the SVS but I'm curious enough that I want to figure this out.



Just keep in mind that the typical phase control for a subwoofer doesn't act uniformly across all the bass frequencies. Its action is limited to the region up near the typical crossover. This is likely true regardless of where you are doing the phase control. [A phase control that would allow fine adjustment all the way down into the subsonic frequencies would be too expensive.]


A polarity setting, as in the D2's sub output and as found on some subs, is the equivalent of reversing the wires to the sub -- so it acts on the entire range of frequencies reproduced by the sub. It's cheap to do this since you aren't trying to implement fine control -- there are just 2 polarity choices.


Since you are getting strong cancellation at lower frequencies (below 50Hz), and since you already know it is not a subsonic filter (since either sub component works fine all by itself), and since you know each of the two components separately is in phase with the Left Front speaker based on your previous adjustments, then the conclusion is that the two components are being driven with opposite Polarity (thus the cancellation happening at all) but you have compensated in the higher bass frequencies for one of them by swinging the phase 180 degrees around (thus the LACK of cancellation between the two sub components in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies which interact with the LF speaker).


If this is what's going on, then you need to take one of these guys and reverse its polarity while also swinging the phase 180 degrees back for it so as to get it back in phase with the Left Front speaker. [The actual phase adjustment here may not be precisely 180 degrees around -- again due to compromises in the way the phase control is implemented -- but it should be close.]

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Thanks Bob I'm just trying to think of an easy way to reverse the polarity. It is not easy working on 130lb beasts behind a very narrow screen wall. I have some Canare RCAs I guess I could try wiring one backwards as it really isn't feasible going inside the actual subs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/14500365
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob I'm just trying to think of an easy way to reverse the polarity. It is not easy working on 130lb beasts behind a very narrow screen wall. I have some Canare RCAs I guess I could try wiring one backwards as it really isn't feasible going inside the actual subs.



You don't need anything fancy in the way of cabling to test this. Get a short, cheap RCA extender cable (Male at one end and Female at the other), cut it in half, strip the insulation back, and reconnect the halves with the polarity reversed using a couple of twist on caps. Put that in-line with your normal subwoofer cable to one of the two components.


If it works, THEN you can worry about doing it better.

--Bob


----------



## Spridle1

For years, I have suffered from CTS (Chronic Tweaking Syndrome). Now ARC has cured me!


Received my ARC on 8/12/08 from my dealer, hooked it up, read this thread, experimented, and then listened for a week. I have arrived at final settings that are fantastic and the sound now equals the level of $$ I have invested in speakers, 2500 watts of amps, cables, processor, sources, etc. I am thrilled with the results.


Here are my targets (same for music and cinema):


L/R Fronts crossover: 110Hz (ARC default)

Center crossover: 115Hz (ARC default)

L/R Surrounds crossover: 115Hz (ARC default)

Sub crossover: 120Hz (ARC default)

Room gain: 4.945749 (set 1.0dB higher than the ARC calculation)

Max EQ: 15,000Hz (my final setting)


Before I run ARC, I tame a big room mode with my Velodyne SMS-1 using three filters. Otherwise, ARC just can't do it all. Further, after running ARC, I have boosted the 20-30Hz range by 1.5dB using the SMS-1.


Also, I have set the HF (High Frequency) adjustment for all my sources to -1.0dB in the Source Setup menu.


No more tweaking for me, just enjoying!


Here are my curves and a picture of my room:

Attachment 117553 

Attachment 117554 

Attachment 117555


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spridle1* /forum/post/14503240
> 
> 
> For years, I have suffered from CTS (Chronic Tweaking Syndrome). Now ARC has cured me!
> 
> 
> Received my ARC on 8/12/08 from my dealer, hooked it up, read this thread, experimented, and then listened for a week. I have arrived at final settings that are fantastic and the sound now equals the level of $$ I have invested in speakers, 2500 watts of amps, cables, processor, sources, etc. I am thrilled with the results.
> 
> 
> Here are my targets (same for music and cinema):
> 
> 
> L/R Fronts crossover: 110Hz (ARC default)
> 
> Center crossover: 115Hz (ARC default)
> 
> L/R Surrounds crossover: 115Hz (ARC default)
> 
> Sub crossover: 120Hz (ARC default)
> 
> Room gain: 4.945749 (set 1.0dB higher than the ARC calculation)
> 
> Max EQ: 15,000Hz (my final setting)
> 
> 
> Before I run ARC, I tame a big room mode with my Velodyne SMS-1 using three filters. Otherwise, ARC just can't do it all. Further, after running ARC, I have boosted the 20-30Hz range by 1.5dB using the SMS-1.
> 
> 
> Also, I have set the HF (High Frequency) adjustment for all my sources to -1.0dB in the Source Setup menu.
> 
> 
> No more tweaking for me, just enjoying!
> 
> 
> Here are my curves and a picture of my room:
> 
> Attachment 117553
> 
> Attachment 117554
> 
> Attachment 117555



That's some pretty snazzy "tweaking" you've got there! Congrats!


"My name is Spridle1, and it's been one week since I last tweaked..."


"Hi, Spridle1!"
















































--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/14500365
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob I'm just trying to think of an easy way to reverse the polarity. It is not easy working on 130lb beasts behind a very narrow screen wall. I have some Canare RCAs I guess I could try wiring one backwards as it really isn't feasible going inside the actual subs.




Is it a sharp roll-off starting at 50hz. down to 20hz. or a 25 dB drop from 50 to 40hz(a hole between 50 and 40 but you have Bass energy at 20 and 30)?


What is your sub's crossover via ARC? Can you try to measure at 3ft further back, just to make sure you are not sitting in a null area relative to the 3 subs?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14503494
> 
> 
> Is it a sharp roll-off starting at 50hz. down to 20hz. or a 25 dB drop from 50 to 40hz(a hole between 50 and 40 but you have Bass energy at 20 and 30)?
> 
> 
> What is your sub's crossover via ARC? Can you try to measure at 3ft further back, just to make sure you are not sitting in a null area relative to the 3 subs?



There's a slight blip of energy but everything is pretty much gone after 50hz. It not the room because one: it goes away when one or the other sub is off and two: these are 5 position ARC readings. ARC sub Xover is at 120hz.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14500497
> 
> 
> You don't need anything fancy in the way of cabling to test this. Get a short, cheap RCA extender cable (Male at one end and Female at the other), cut it in half, strip the insulation back, and reconnect the halves with the polarity reversed using a couple of twist on caps. Put that in-line with your normal subwoofer cable to one of the two components.
> 
> 
> If it works, THEN you can worry about doing it better.
> 
> --Bob



Gee you finally gave me something to do with all those red and white RCA cords buried somewhere in the basement.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14494781
> 
> 
> Is a 0 room gain normal? What is the room gain actually doing?




Nick said that a room gain between 0 and 6 is normal. In my previous measurements I was also getting a room gain of 0. I tried moving the mic 1 ft off the back of the seat and around 4 inches higher than my ear level then made 9 measurements with no less than 24 inch spacing between each measurements. Resulting RG increased from 0 to 1.4. Still I did not like the Bass response. I experimented with several values and finally came up with 3.2RG as my desired value.


Other than being sure that our amps and speakers can handle the ARC corrections, why do we get different target curves? I don't have have more than a 10 dB swing from the deepest valley and the highest peak on all speakers and I have 4700 watt of amp power at 4 Ohms as well as an acoustically treated room and still ARC just specify a RG of 1.4!


----------



## yacht422

bob. here are sub and ctr arc files. at last!









thx again!

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14503721
> 
> 
> bob. here are sub and ctr arc files. at last!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thx again!
> 
> walt



That's the ticket!


All perfectly reasonable. Your sub looks fine (the little dip near 60Hz is nothing to worry about -- it's only about 2dB), and you can see that the sub is all set to do the heavy lifting at the lowest frequencies, so ARC is free to remove the Boundary Gain (or whatever it is) that is causing the high measurement at low frequencies for your main speakers.


I think what you've got now should be sounding pretty good! Are you happy with it at this point?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14503663
> 
> 
> Other than being sure that our amps and speakers can handle the ARC corrections, why do we get different target curves? I don't have have more than a 10 dB swing from the deepest valley and the highest peak on all speakers and I have 4700 watt of amp power at 4 Ohms as well as an acoustically treated room and still ARC just specify a RG of 1.4!



Is your room acoustically treated? You may just have a low, natural Room Gain in the room.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14503791
> 
> 
> Is your room acoustically treated? You may just have a low, natural Room Gain in the room.
> 
> --Bob




Yes Bob, I have Diffusers,panels, membrane bass absorbers all over the place. I have an average RT60 of .25 to .35 across 63 to 4khz.


Now I am wondering if Ninja12's room is well treated also?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14504677
> 
> 
> Yes Bob, I have Diffusers,panels, membrane bass absorbers all over the place. I have an average RT60 of .25 to .35 across 63 to 4khz.
> 
> 
> Now I am wondering if Ninja12's room is well treated also?



I have Acoustic Panels on the side walls that covers my first and second reflections. I have one acoustic panel on my ceiling that covers the first reflection from my center channel. I have an acoustic panel on my front wall behind each tower speaker (B&W 803S). I have a bass trap in the front two corners. I have one monster bass trap on the back wall.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14503780
> 
> 
> That's the ticket!
> 
> 
> All perfectly reasonable. Your sub looks fine (the little dip near 60Hz is nothing to worry about -- it's only about 2dB), and you can see that the sub is all set to do the heavy lifting at the lowest frequencies, so ARC is free to remove the Boundary Gain (or whatever it is) that is causing the high measurement at low frequencies for your main speakers.
> 
> 
> I think what you've got now should be sounding pretty good! Are you happy with it at this point?
> 
> --Bob



Indeed, the graphs are good. Maybe Basstraps are in order if you want to improve on Deep end response.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14504733
> 
> 
> I have Acoustic Panels on the side walls that covers my first and second reflections. I have one acoustic panel on my ceiling that covers the first reflection from my center channel. I have an acoustic panel on my front wall behind each tower speaker (B&W 803S). I have a bass trap in the front two corners. I have one monster bass trap on the back wall.



Ok, maybe that's the reason for low RG values.


Ninja12, have you tried, 3 or 4 dB Room gain? Mine works great with 3.2 dB.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14504768
> 
> 
> Ok, maybe that's the reason for low RG values.
> 
> 
> Ninja12, have you tried, 3 or 4 dB Room gain? Mine works great with 3.2 dB.



No, I have not tried 3 or 4 db room gain. I was getting 0 room gain before I put any acoustic treatments. However, I do know that the acoustic treatments are working because I don't hear the reflections anymore.


----------



## yacht422

bob;abc; thx again.

my lingering question(other than will the rains ever stop[what is the cube of a cubit])

note the target curve for the ctr spkr. why do my mains not have the same target? seems to me that they should!?

funny shaped room? has a 9' ceiling and a 10' -trey - - - acoustical treatments, but not as extensive as some. (nothing on ceiling)

see attachment.

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14507073
> 
> 
> bob;abc; thx again.
> 
> my lingering question(other than will the rains ever stop[what is the cube of a cubit])
> 
> note the target curve for the ctr spkr. why do my mains not have the same target? seems to me that they should!?
> 
> funny shaped room? has a 9' ceiling and a 10' -trey - - - acoustical treatments, but not as extensive as some. (nothing on ceiling)
> 
> see attachment.
> 
> walt



Your center speaker is not measuring as a "full range" speaker. A full range center speaker is pretty uncommon, but if yours is SUPPOSED to be full range then it may have a problem in its bass element -- its woofer.


The measurement you have right now for your center speaker looks pretty normal to me.


Your LF/RF speakers, on the other hand, are measuring as pretty typical "full range" speakers, so ARC is taking advantage of that -- balancing the work the sub has to do against what the LF and RF speakers can do.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

Unhappy with my sound after ARC, wondering if this is the problem.


I did measurements with the ARC software that came on the disk from Anthem. Then upgraded to 1.2.5 and didn't remeasure, the room, but had 1.2.5 do the calculations. I hope this might be my problem, for the very thin sound I am getting.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14504768
> 
> 
> Ok, maybe that's the reason for low RG values.
> 
> 
> Ninja12, have you tried, 3 or 4 dB Room gain? Mine works great with 3.2 dB.



I think the 1.5 to 4.0 room gains we seem to be Measuring are all pretty good. I think the lower numbers reflect rooms that are, perhaps OVER-treated -- flatter than might be good.


However, in Ninja12's case, the deep hole he's got around 50Hz seems to be giving ARC problems in determining the true, natural Room Gain. I think ARC is seeing a NEGATIVE Room Gain in his Measurements and so it is using 0dB as a fail-safe since a negative Room Gain makes no sense acoustically.


In ABC999's case I think the room just has a low, natural Room Gain after treatment.


In both cases, telling ARC to "force" a somewhat higher Room Gain onto the Targets is probably a good idea. But I'm not sure it makes sense to go all the way up to the 4dB (or higher) that some untreated rooms will Measure as that will make the audio system sound a bit out of whack with the response of the room to natural sounds -- e.g. talking.


This is all still guesswork of course. We also need to figure out just when and why ARC decides to roll off the top end of the Target curves.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14507376
> 
> 
> Unhappy with my sound after ARC, wondering if this is the problem.
> 
> 
> I did measurements with the ARC software that came on the disk from Anthem. Then upgraded to 1.2.5 and didn't remeasure, the room, but had 1.2.5 do the calculations. I hope this might be my problem, for the very thin sound I am getting.



I don't know what version of ARC you were using before, but yes, I think you should definitely re-Measure using ARC V1.2.5 (and firmware V1.33).


If your version of ARC is old enough then there are bugs that have since been fixed which could affect the Measurements.


At the very least, you need to go into the Targets window and do an Auto Detect on your old Measurements so that the updated algorithm in ARC V1.2.5 can set the Targets correctly before you Calculate. I would not even consider Calculating with ARC V1.2.5 using Measurements made with any ARC version older than V1.2.2. And again, I suggest you re-Measure even if you were using V1.2.2 before.


----------------------------------------------


After you Upload, go into the Setup menu and:


1) Make sure Setup / Source Setup / Room EQ = ON is set for all sources you want to use with ARC


2) Make sure the uploaded Setup / Speaker Calibration levels make sense. If not, something has failed during the Upload.


3) Make sure the uploaded Setup / Speaker Configuration crossover values for Movie and Music match what ARC shows it is Targeting in the Targets window. If not, something has failed during the Upload


4) If you have more than one subwoofer, do *NOT* set subwoofers = 2 in the Speaker Configuration. ARC needs subwoofers = 1 regardless of how many subwoofers you actually have.


5) Once you are happy all this is correct, do a Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture those Setup menu changes ARC has just made to make sure you don't accidentally mess them up later by doing a Reload from those memories.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Can someone explain room gain to me? Is it as simple as the name impies being spikes at various points along the frequency response curve?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14508995
> 
> 
> Can someone explain room gain to me? Is it as simple as the name impies being spikes at various points along the frequency response curve?



From the collection of ARC-related post links which can now be found in the first post of this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14429013 


Simply put, Room Gain is a DESIRABLE aspect of the room response that ARC tries to preserve even as it is working to eliminate the various UNDESIRABLE aspects of the room response.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

I am still surprised that after running 1.2.5 last night that it still has my SVS PB13U is still set crossed over at 120, and my fronts are set all the way down to 40?


Michael


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14511911
> 
> 
> I am still surprised that after running 1.2.5 last night that it still has my SVS PB13U is still set crossed over at 120, and my fronts are set all the way down to 40?
> 
> 
> Michael



That's normal for V1.2.5 if your fronts are full range. If you post your charts here we'll see if it looks like there are any problems.


Don't worry about the big overlap in crossovers. ARC deals with that for you in its room correction processing.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14509141
> 
> 
> Simply put, Room Gain is a DESIRABLE aspect of the room response that ARC tries to preserve even as it is working to eliminate the various UNDESIRABLE aspects of the room response.
> 
> --Bob



I am not so sure that it is universally desirable but generally necessary since the mastering studios presume its presence(!).


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14511979
> 
> 
> Don't worry about the big overlap in crossovers. ARC deals with that for you in its room correction processing.
> 
> --Bob



Not an overlap since the sub(LFE) lp filter is only for LFE signals and the main crossover is only for those signals.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14512000
> 
> 
> I am not so sure that it is universally desirable but generally necessary since the mastering studios presume its presence(!).



I hear you. My point was that ARC is trying to detect and preserve it rather than eliminating it like it does with other room response characteristics.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Audio-Only Blu-Ray Discs Starting to Appear!*


I was just on Amazon and noticed that they have already started to carry audio-only Blu-Ray discs: DTS-HD MA 7.1 at 24 bits / 96KHz.


Do a search within "Blu-Ray" for "audio".


Apparently these are actually 5.1 high-bandwidth recordings that have been processed to add the rear channels. But that may not be true for all of them. In any event, they should work just peachy through a D2.


I've ordered a couple to give them a try but they are out of stock at the moment. Has anyone else here tried one of these through an ARC'd D2 yet?

--Bob


----------



## drdisc

Dear Bob & the Gang:


I haven't logged in for a quite a few months now but was prompted to after reading Kalman Rubinson's article about the ARC-1 (and D2) in the September issue of Stereophile. Excellent article, Kal! (Check it out everyone!)


My, my, my . . . quite a lot has transpired since I last logged in! The new ARC-1, new firmware, and a couple of thousand new posts (most of them courtesy of the ever patient and helpful Bob P







).


After catching up on my reading this weekend I have decided to order the ARC-1 tomorrow and finally upgrade the firmware in my D1 upgrade which is rock solid using ol' 1.11 which was installed when I had the hardware upgrade. Like drhankz has said, "If it ain't broke . . . "


I have mostly lurked in the background here (as I am sure a lot of other D2 owners do) as I am not as technically knowledgeable as most in this forum, but I have read every post in order to try and educate myself in regards to not only HT, but the science of audio and video as well.


Just let me say that I find it SO helpful to not only have access to this forum, but also to the collective knowledge and the willingness to share same knowledge that you all demonstrate when it comes to D2 problem-solving. Thanks to everyone that participates in making the D2 experience as enjoyable and painless as possible.


I just thought I would reintroduce myself in advance of my getting the ARC-1 and upgrading my firmware because I am pretty sure that I will be needing some help and advice with something to do with these changes in the next few weeks.


Thanks in advance,

Mark


P.S. I can't wait to listen to my Buena Vista Social Club DVD-Audio recording post-ARC-1 calibration!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drdisc* /forum/post/14513863
> 
> 
> Like drhankz has said, "If it ain't broke . . . "



I agree ---










ARC is tempting enough for me to UPGRADE

also even though it isn't Broke


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've got just two, significant open issues with the current software:


1) Anthem still needs to get the HDMI handshake sorted out. I know they are working on it, and that it is slated for V1.34, but it's taking a while. The test version they came out with back in June looked really promising with regard to my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR, but it broke the PS3 and even my venerable Pioneer 59avi had issues with it.


2) I think Anthem really ought to finish the job of getting 480i/60 and 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion working properly for film-based content. It's really the only significant item left that distinguishes the stand alone video processors from the D2.


Both of these are with respect to the current D2/AVM50 feature set.


There is also, of course, lots of room for future growth in the ARC software. Adding analysis tools to the automatic stuff for example. But that will come over time I'm sure.


-------------------------------------------


Anyway, you folks who are still on V1.11 without ARC need to get off your duffs!










--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14512362
> 
> *Audio-Only Blu-Ray Discs Starting to Appear!*
> 
> 
> I was just on Amazon and noticed that they have already started to carry audio-only Blu-Ray discs: DTS-HD MA 7.1 at 24 bits / 96KHz.
> 
> 
> Do a search within "Blu-Ray" for "audio".
> 
> 
> Apparently these are actually 5.1 high-bandwidth recordings that have been processed to add the rear channels. But that may not be true for all of them. In any event, they should work just peachy through a D2.
> 
> 
> I've ordered a couple to give them a try but they are out of stock at the moment. Has anyone else here tried one of these through an ARC'd D2 yet?
> 
> --Bob



Yes. These are derived from original 5.1 Naxos recordings released on DVD-A and/or SACD. They are OK but I've decided to pass on the 7.1s (since I only have 5.1).


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14485629
> 
> 
> We haven't had any other reports like that here. Have you checked in Setup / Source Setup to make sure your settings got restored correctly?
> 
> 
> Similarly, check in the Oppo itself to make sure HDMI audio output is still enabled.
> 
> 
> I presume you've checked to make sure your HDMI plugs are in the correct sockets and fully inserted, right? Does HDMI audio work from other sources?
> 
> --Bob



My settings restored ok. The proper hdmi input for video as well as Dig Hdmi for audio.


Hdmi audio from the Oppo was still enabled.


Video shows up so my hdmi cables must be fully inserted and not defective.


Hdmi audio works on both my other hdmi sources.


Any ideas?


John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14514472
> 
> 
> 1) Anthem still needs to get the HDMI handshake sorted out.
> 
> 
> but it broke the PS3
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Anyway, you folks who are still on V1.11 without ARC need to get off your duffs!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I'm still on 1.11 WITHOUT ARC.


Why would I want to break my HDMI handshake for my PS3


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14514472
> 
> 
> I've got just two, significant open issues with the current software:
> 
> 
> 1) Anthem still needs to get the HDMI handshake sorted out. I know they are working on it, and that it is slated for V1.34, but it's taking a while. The test version they came out with back in June looked really promising with regard to my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR, but it broke the PS3 and even my venerable Pioneer 59avi had issues with it.
> 
> 
> 2) I think Anthem really ought to finish the job of getting 480i/60 and 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion working properly for film-based content. It's really the only significant item left that distinguishes the stand alone video processors from the D2.
> 
> 
> Both of these are with respect to the current D2/AVM50 feature set.
> 
> 
> There is also, of course, lots of room for future growth in the ARC software. Adding analysis tools to the automatic stuff for example. But that will come over time I'm sure.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Anyway, you folks who are still on V1.11 without ARC need to get off your duffs!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Your concerns are much more important than mine, but I'd like to be able to see if 'ARC is on' or 'ARC is off' somewhere on the information listed as you scroll through the other info available by pressing the 'select' button on the remote.

It would be nice to see if the ARC status along with what video in/out, audio in/out, etc. that you can access now onscreen or on the front panel display.

Maybe you could mention this to Anthem if you agree.

Tom

BTW, who reads this thread and doesn't have ARC yet? Do we need to start a fund for some of less fortunate of our brothers? I'll be happy to kick in a couple bucks. ARC is without a doubt the best audio tweek available, and at $400 its also a great bargain.


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14516813
> 
> 
> I'm still on 1.11 WITHOUT ARC.
> 
> 
> Why would I want to break my HDMI handshake for my PS3



HDMI handshake works fine for PS3 w/ Ver. 1.33. I believe Bob was refering to the test version of 1.34 that was available from Anthem's password protected site for a while ago. It has since been pulled from the website.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14517572
> 
> 
> HDMI handshake works fine for PS3 w/ Ver. 1.33. I believe Bob was refering to the test version of 1.34 that was available from Anthem's password protected site for a while ago. It has since been pulled from the website.



Thanks for the heads up.


Being a TESTER like Bob does allow for some BUMPS in the road


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14516813
> 
> 
> I'm still on 1.11 WITHOUT ARC.
> 
> 
> Why would I want to break my HDMI handshake for my PS3



Urh, what?


V1.33 has no HDMI handshake problem with the PS3.


And you don't use HDMI from your cable box.


As stated above, the test HDMI version (slated for V1.34) which fixes the cable box issues, has had problems with the PS3.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14516540
> 
> 
> My settings restored ok. The proper hdmi input for video as well as Dig Hdmi for audio.
> 
> 
> Hdmi audio from the Oppo was still enabled.
> 
> 
> Video shows up so my hdmi cables must be fully inserted and not defective.
> 
> 
> Hdmi audio works on both my other hdmi sources.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> John



No, sorry. This is an odd one. You'd best give Anthem tech support a call. I suspect they'll ask you to try a re-install of the firmware as a first step.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14517226
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Your concerns are much more important than mine, but I'd like to be able to see if 'ARC is on' or 'ARC is off' somewhere on the information listed as you scroll through the other info available by pressing the 'select' button on the remote.
> 
> It would be nice to see if the ARC status along with what video in/out, audio in/out, etc. that you can access now onscreen or on the front panel display.
> 
> Maybe you could mention this to Anthem if you agree.
> 
> Tom
> 
> BTW, who reads this thread and doesn't have ARC yet? Do we need to start a fund for some of less fortunate of our brothers? I'll be happy to kick in a couple bucks. ARC is without a doubt the best audio tweek available, and at $400 its also a great bargain.



I suspect they didn't think of adding it to the status info because there's nothing you can do via the remote that will change that on the fly, and it also isn't dependent on the type of content coming in from the source at the moment.


Once you've uploaded a set of ARC results, the activation of ARC at any given moment is entirely determined by how you've configured Setup / Source Setup for each source. If Room EQ = ON is set for the currently selected source, and if you are NOT using Analog Direct input, then ARC is active for that source.


But even if just for marketing purposes, it would indeed be nice if you could bring up an on-screen display that noted that ARC was active so you could lord it over your friends who have not upgraded yet.










By the way, Anthem reads this thread, even if they don't post here daily. So they will see your suggestion.

--Bob


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14514472
> 
> 
> 1) Anthem still needs to get the HDMI handshake sorted out. I know they are working on it, and that it is slated for V1.34, but it's taking a while. The test version they came out with back in June looked really promising with regard to my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR, but it broke the PS3 and even my venerable Pioneer 59avi had issues with it.



Any word if the HDMI improvements in the 1.34 software addresses AppleTV not working with HDMI and the D2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/14519394
> 
> 
> Any word if the HDMI improvements in the 1.34 software addresses AppleTV not working with HDMI and the D2?



No idea, sorry. It seems to be focussed on issues related to excessive retries happening when the input video resolution changes, but that's a big enough change in its own right that it could affect other aspects of the handshake as well.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/14519394
> 
> 
> Any word if the HDMI improvements in the 1.34 software addresses AppleTV not working with HDMI and the D2?



I think AppleTV HDMI is BROKEN on Apple's End.

I have not been able to get AppleTV to work via

HDMI to anything - even running direct.


AppleTV to Apple does not even work.


----------



## dwwhitley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bob pariseau* /forum/post/14514472
> 
> 
> i've got just two, significant open issues with the current software:
> 
> 
> 1) anthem still needs to get the hdmi handshake sorted out. I know they are working on it, and that it is slated for v1.34, but it's taking a while. The test version they came out with back in june looked really promising with regard to my comcast/motorola hd-dvr, but it broke the ps3 and even my venerable pioneer 59avi had issues with it.
> 
> 
> 2) i think anthem really ought to *finish the job of getting 480i/60 and 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion working properly for film-based content.* it's really the only significant item left that distinguishes the stand alone video processors from the d2.
> 
> 
> Both of these are with respect to the current d2/avm50 feature set.
> 
> 
> There is also, of course, lots of room for future growth in the arc software. Adding analysis tools to the automatic stuff for example. But that will come over time i'm sure.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> anyway, you folks who are still on v1.11 without arc need to get off your duffs!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --bob


*+1*


-Don


----------



## drdisc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14514472
> 
> 
> I've got just two, significant open issues with the current software:
> 
> 
> 1) Anthem still needs to get the HDMI handshake sorted out. I know they are working on it, and that it is slated for V1.34, but it's taking a while. The test version they came out with back in June looked really promising with regard to my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR, but it broke the PS3 and even my venerable Pioneer 59avi had issues with it.
> 
> 
> 2) I think Anthem really ought to finish the job of getting 480i/60 and 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion working properly for film-based content. It's really the only significant item left that distinguishes the stand alone video processors from the D2.
> 
> 
> Both of these are with respect to the current D2/AVM50 feature set.
> 
> 
> There is also, of course, lots of room for future growth in the ARC software. Adding analysis tools to the automatic stuff for example. But that will come over time I'm sure.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Anyway, you folks who are still on V1.11 without ARC need to get off your duffs!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Okay Bob, I just got off my duff and ordered ARC today and will be upgrading (with your guidance







) to 1.3.3 shortly.


It feels nice to stretch those legs!


Can anyone please let me know what the computer requirements are in order to effectively run the ARC software?


Mark


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drdisc* /forum/post/14521286
> 
> 
> Okay Bob, I just got off my duff and ordered ARC today



IS THIS Pressure on me to ORDER ARC











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drdisc* /forum/post/14521286
> 
> 
> Can anyone please let me know what the computer requirements are in order to effectively run the ARC software?



Dr. Bob uses a MAC as does Dr. Hank










So don't listen to us


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drdisc* /forum/post/14521286
> 
> 
> Can anyone please let me know what the computer requirements are in order to effectively run the ARC software?
> 
> 
> Mark



Apple Mac OSX 10.5.4 (Leopard) with BootCamp and Windows XP or Windows Vista installed under BootCamp.


Or a Windows PC with Windows XP or Windows Vista.


Please note, Windows 2000 or older will NOT work for the ARC Measurement process as the audio software framework ARC uses to capture audio from the USB mic only exists in Windows XP or later.


You need a serial connection to the Anthem and a USB connection for the ARC mic. If your computer does not have a "real" serial connection you can use a PC-Card serial adapter (for a computer with a PC-Card slot) or a USB to Serial adapter (for a computer with a second USB port). Folks here have reported having the best luck with either a PC-card adapter (any brand) or the Keyspan brand USA-19HS USB to Serial adapter. In either case, be sure to download and install the latest driver for your adapter specific to your operating system from the manufacturer's web site (e.g., Keyspan), as the one that comes in the package on the peg is likely already out of date.


I also recommend a wireless mouse as it makes it easy for you to initiate ARC Measurement while standing away from the computer (which is likely sitting between the Anthem and the various ARC mic locations).


And although the mic stand that comes bundled with the ARC kit is adequate, I recommend replacing it with an inexpensive boom mic stand, as for example the one cited in this post, which makes it easier to set up mic positions over the back of a chair (the mic clip from the Anthem included stand screws onto the end of the boom for this stand):

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post13934257 


--Bob


----------



## drdisc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14521696
> 
> 
> Apple Mac OSX 10.5.4 (Leopard) with BootCamp and Windows XP or Windows Vista installed under BootCamp.
> 
> 
> Or a Windows PC with Windows XP or Windows Vista.
> 
> 
> Please note, Windows 2000 or older will NOT work for the ARC Measurement process as the audio software framework ARC uses to capture audio from the USB mic only exists in Windows XP or later.
> 
> 
> You need a serial connection to the Anthem and a USB connection for the ARC mic. If your computer does not have a "real" serial connection you can use a PC-Card serial adapter (for a computer with a PC-Card slot) or a USB to Serial adapter (for a computer with a second USB port). Folks here have reported having the best luck with either a PC-card adapter (any brand) or the Keyspan brand USA-19HS USB to Serial adapter. In either case, be sure to download and install the latest driver for your adapter specific to your operating system from the manufacturer's web site (e.g., Keyspan), as the one that comes in the package on the peg is likely already out of date.
> 
> 
> I also recommend a wireless mouse as it makes it easy for you to initiate ARC Measurement will standing away from the computer (which is likely sitting between the Anthem and the various ARC mic locations).
> 
> 
> And although the mic stand that comes bundled with the ARC kit is adequate, I recommend replacing it with an inexpensive boom mic stand, as for example the one cited in this post, which makes it easier to set up mic positions over the back of a chair (the mic clip from the Anthem included stand screws onto the end of the boom for this stand):
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post13934257
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thank you, Bob! Your response is detailed and thorough and I shall obey!!


And no, drhankz, I am not pressuring you upgrade firmware and get the ARC-1. We all know you have already made that decision even though you haven't publicly admitted it yet!










By the way, the rep that I ordered the ARC-1 from wrote this when I placed my order: "The room correction/equalization works miracles. Worth 6 times the cost, no ****!"


Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drdisc* /forum/post/14522039
> 
> 
> I shall obey!!



Ah! Good.


I've always said, you can never have too many minions...










--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drdisc* /forum/post/14522039
> 
> 
> And no, drhankz, I am not pressuring you upgrade firmware and get the ARC-1. We all know you have already made that decision even though you haven't publicly admitted it yet!




Ok Dr. Disc - Thanks for no Pressure.


I can't deal well with PRESSURE


----------



## drdisc

For anyone considering ordering the ARC-1 the current order wait time is "approximately 2 weeks" as confirmed by my dealer with Anthem minutes ago . . . .


So, I still get to sit on my duff for 2 more weeks, Mr. Bob!










Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*ARC vs. LFE Bypass: Preliminary Answers!*


Nick from Anthem is back from vacation and I've got some preliminary answers on the question raised a week back regarding the interaction of ARC's chosen subwoofer crossover value and the Setup / Speaker Configuration / LFE Bypass setting.


The word so far is that the LFE Bypass setting is ignored during ARC Measurement, and also during normal listening from Room EQ = ON sources after ARC data is Uploaded into the Anthem.


ARC is handling LFE in a more sophisticated fashion that still has the effect of bypassing or partially bypassing a low subwoofer crossover setting.


The LFE Bypass setting still has effect for Room EQ = OFF sources.


I'm getting more details now but it looks like some intriguing stuff is going on.


However the primary result is that you can't screw up your ARC stuff by turning on LFE Bypass (perhaps by accident), nor do you need to worry about whether you *OUGHT* to turn it on because ARC chose a low crossover value for your subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drdisc* /forum/post/14526133
> 
> 
> For anyone considering ordering the ARC-1 the current order wait time is "approximately 2 weeks" as confirmed by my dealer with Anthem minutes ago . . . .
> 
> 
> So, I still get to sit on my duff for 2 more weeks, Mr. Bob!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark




This is a lot better lead time than it was.


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drdisc* /forum/post/14526133
> 
> 
> For anyone considering ordering the ARC-1 the current order wait time is "approximately 2 weeks" as confirmed by my dealer with Anthem minutes ago . . . .
> 
> 
> So, I still get to sit on my duff for 2 more weeks, Mr. Bob!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



I ordered on Monday the 18th and I was told two weeks too. I've since been given a glimmer of hope that I'll have it prior to the holiday weekend. We'll see....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drdisc* /forum/post/14526133
> 
> 
> For anyone considering ordering the ARC-1 the current order wait time is "approximately 2 weeks" as confirmed by my dealer with Anthem minutes ago . . . .
> 
> 
> So, I still get to sit on my duff for 2 more weeks, Mr. Bob!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



I could be WRONG - but maybe the wait time in Canada

is different than the U.S.


I typed too fast - I see someone in the US agrees with

your two week estimate.


I'll order mine tomorrow and let you know.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14526621
> 
> 
> I'll order mine tomorrow and let you know.



Egads!


You will all long remember precisely where you were and exactly what you were doing when you heard this news!










--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14526755
> 
> 
> Egads!
> 
> 
> You will all long remember precisely where you were and exactly what you were doing when you heard this news!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



It is EARTH







Shaking - Isn't It










Look at the guy above shaking


----------



## yacht422

walt here. olympics are finished, and the sun has finally reappeared. - - - so, therefore, it is re measurement time!

bob, i've been looking for your post that gave the guidelines for a remea-a-mt. lost somewhere in your 3000+record.

could you post just the basics?(or the post #)

thx. \\walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I also got confirmation from Nick that even with ARC the bass steering only goes in one direction. If you have a subwoofer configured, LFE is not steered to the mains.


Nick tells me they are experimenting with even more flexibility in the way LFE is handled automatically by ARC -- as separate from how bass steering happens from the main speakers. I don't know when this might show up in a new ARC version.


Nick advises that users should probably NOT lower the subwoofer crossover manually in ARC below about 60 Hz, even if you have main speakers that go quite deep into the bass. Let ARC maintain the crossover overlap (low mains crossover and higher sub crossover) if that's what the automated Targeting selects.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14527271
> 
> 
> walt here. olympics are finished, and the sun has finally reappeared. - - - so, therefore, it is re measurement time!
> 
> bob, i've been looking for your post that gave the guidelines for a remea-a-mt. lost somewhere in your 3000+record.
> 
> could you post just the basics?(or the post #)
> 
> thx. \\walt



I'm not sure which guidelines you are looking for. Mic positioning suggestions? Setting the Noise Level? Something else? Let me know and I'll track down the link for you.


Also scan through the list of ARC links collected in the first post of this thread. All of my tutorial posts since ARC V1.2.2 are in that list. The list is a little long, but most of the referenced posts are quite short so it is quick to scan. The posts are in chronological order -- newest posts at the end of that list.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14527293
> 
> 
> I also got confirmation from Nick that even with ARC the bass steering only goes in one direction. If you have a subwoofer configured, LFE is not steered to the mains.
> 
> 
> Nick tells me they are experimenting with even more flexibility in the way LFE is handled automatically by ARC -- as separate from how bass steering happens from the main speakers. I don't know when this might show up in a new ARC version.
> 
> 
> Nick advises that users should probably NOT lower the subwoofer crossover manually in ARC below about 60 Hz, even if you have main speakers that go quite deep into the bass. Let ARC maintain the crossover overlap (low mains crossover and higher sub crossover) if that's what the automated Targeting selects.
> 
> --Bob



I guess I should not be concerned then since ARC has my mains set at 40, and my sub set at 120. Based on what ARC has come up for me, my sub will always playing in conjunction to the rest of my speakers because ARC has set my center to 90, surrounds to 80, and my rears to 85.


----------



## yacht422

bob: you had a recent post that said for re measurement one only needed to turn off ???, as opposed to removing the hdmi cables, etc, which is required for a firmware upgrade.

it was a recent (month back? maybe more) but try though i did, never found it.

i have moved things around, applied additional '701' on the wall behind the mains(earlier BOB observation resulting from your arc file review) so a re meas'mt is in order. really do not want to take my components box apart to get to the hdmi cables, if i can just hook up the cable from the D2 (permanently attached) to the pc and go!

thx

walt


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14528750
> 
> 
> bob: you had a recent post that said for re measurement one only needed to turn off ???, as opposed to removing the hdmi cables, etc, which is required for a firmware upgrade.
> 
> it was a recent (month back? maybe more) but try though i did, never found it.
> 
> i have moved things around, applied additional '701' on the wall behind the mains(earlier BOB observation resulting from your arc file review) so a re meas'mt is in order. really do not want to take my components box apart to get to the hdmi cables, if i can just hook up the cable from the D2 (permanently attached) to the pc and go!
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



I've never done that for measurements or for uploading ARC data, only for uploading new D2 firmware.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14528750
> 
> 
> bob: you had a recent post that said for re measurement one only needed to turn off ???, as opposed to removing the hdmi cables, etc, which is required for a firmware upgrade.
> 
> it was a recent (month back? maybe more) but try though i did, never found it.
> 
> i have moved things around, applied additional '701' on the wall behind the mains(earlier BOB observation resulting from your arc file review) so a re meas'mt is in order. really do not want to take my components box apart to get to the hdmi cables, if i can just hook up the cable from the D2 (permanently attached) to the pc and go!
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



You don't have to fiddle with any of the Anthem cables when doing ARC Measurement or Upload.


The thing with the HDMI cables is only for when you are installing new firmware into the Anthem itself. And my recommendation is that you NOT do it by unplugging HDMI cables, but rather by removing wall power from everything else in your system except for the Anthem and the computer you are using to do the install. HDMI plugs and sockets are delicate enough that it's best to plug/unplug them as infrequently as possible. None of that applies when doing ARC Measurements, Calculations, or Uploads.


As with all cabling changes, it is wise to have the Anthem itself turned off before you connect or disconnect the serial cable at either end.


---------------------------------------


Before doing your re-Measurement, consider whether there's any adjustment you want to make in the Noise Level setting in the Setup menu or in the volume knob on the subwoofer. Figure out your mic positions, eliminate any random sources of noise in the room, hook up the computer and mic and go to it.


---------------------------------------


What you may be thinking about was a warning for an OLDER version of ARC that you should power off your subwoofer before doing an ARC Upload due to the chance that ARC might send a blast out to the subwoofer during the Upload. That bug has been fixed, and you don't need to worry about that with ARC V1.2.5

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*More Info on ARC Target Curves (High Frequency Roll Off)*


I had an exchange with Nick today about some of our questions regarding the roll off in high frequencies of the Target curve, and that we hadn't been able to figure out when and why it was happening.


He says that ARC detects a natural roll off during Measurements and applies a roll off to the Target curve to keep from stressing the speaker or the amp. In particular, they don't Target raising the level more than 6dB worth.


----------------------------------------


I mentioned that we had noticed dipole surround speakers tended to measure poorly up there and commonly had a roll off and he replied that this should *NOT* be the case with good dipoles properly installed. So folks with dipoles who are seeing severe roll off up there might want to revisit their choice of speaker or how it is set up. In particular make sure the primary listening area is (roughly) on the line at right angles to the line between the 2 driver elements of the dipole. I suppose another factor in this is whether the dipoles can be tilted down or set with the tweeter elements closer to ear height. But since most of the energy emitted from the dipoles has to bounce off the walls before it gets to your ear, I would think room reflection characteristics must play a big role in this.


ETA: Some years ago -- which was the last time I looked into dipoles -- there were some dipole makers who were deliberately rolling off high frequencies based on various hand-waving rationalizations. If you have severe roll off at high frequencies in the Measured curves of your dipoles, one place to start would be to find out how your dipoles are actually spec'd to operate.


--------------------------------------


I also mentioned that we had charts posted here that showed oddball cases where the Measured curve rolled off significantly at high frequencies but the Target curve remained flat, and cases where the Measured curve was flat or even rising out there and the Target curve was rolled off.


He says cases like that need more investigation. There may be a good explanation for it or it may indicate a bug in ARC. What he would need is for folks with cases like that to email him the ARC data file itself (not just a screen shot of the curves). They have the ability in engineering to pick apart the ARC data file and see precisely what was Measured from 5Hz to 24KHz (not just the averages shown on the chart) and what was Targeted and then Calculated as a result of that.


Again, this is for cases where there is either:


1) A significant roll off in the Measured curves at high frequency but the Target is left flat out there, or


2) A flat or rising Measured curve out there but the Target is given a significant roll off.


In either case the Calculated curve will tend to track the Measured curve because ARC is not (by default) applying any corrections up that high in frequency. Raising the Max EQ Frequency Target will make the Calculated curve track closer to the Target, but of course if the Target itself is messed up this won't be good.


So those of you who have posted charts showing anomalies like this in the high frequencies (using ARC V1.2.5), please consider emailing your ARC data file to Anthem tech support with the request that they dig into it and see what's up.


-----------------------------------


Nick also mentioned that the engineers are working on improvements to ARC that will add some additional intelligence to how things are handled up there. No details yet, but it's nice to know they are still working hard on improving this great feature.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

this is the info i was looking for. thx

walt


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14529116
> 
> *More Info on ARC Target Curves (High Frequency Roll Off)*
> 
> 
> I had an exchange with Nick today about some of our questions regarding the roll off in high frequencies of the Target curve, and that we hadn't been able to figure out when and why it was happening.
> 
> 
> He says that ARC detects a natural roll off during Measurements and applies a roll off to the Target curve to keep from stressing the speaker or the amp. In particular, they don't Target raising the level more than 6dB worth.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I mentioned that we had noticed dipole surround speakers tended to measure poorly up there and commonly had a roll off and he replied that this should *NOT* be the case with good dipoles properly installed. So folks with dipoles who are seeing severe roll off up there might want to revisit their choice of speaker or how it is set up. In particular make sure the primary listening area is (roughly) on the line at right angles to the line between the 2 driver elements of the dipole. I suppose another factor in this is whether the dipoles can be tilted down or set with the tweeter elements closer to ear height. But since most of the energy emitted from the dipoles has to bounce off the walls before it gets to your ear, I would think room reflection characteristics must play a big role in this.
> 
> 
> ETA: Some years ago -- which was the last time I looked into dipoles -- there were some dipole makers who were deliberately rolling off high frequencies based on various hand-waving rationalizations. If you have severe roll off at high frequencies in the Measured curves of your dipoles, one place to start would be to find out how your dipoles are actually spec'd to operate.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I also mentioned that we had charts posted here that showed oddball cases where the Measured curve rolled off significantly at high frequencies but the Target curve remained flat, and cases where the Measured curve was flat or even rising out there and the Target curve was rolled off.
> 
> 
> He says cases like that need more investigation. There may be a good explanation for it or it may indicate a bug in ARC. What he would need is for folks with cases like that to email him the ARC data file itself (not just a screen shot of the curves). They have the ability in engineering to pick apart the ARC data file and see precisely what was Measured from 5Hz to 24KHz (not just the averages shown on the chart) and what was Targeted and then Calculated as a result of that.
> 
> 
> Again, this is for cases where there is either:
> 
> 
> 1) A significant roll off in the Measured curves at high frequency but the Target is left flat out there, or
> 
> 
> 2) A flat or rising Measured curve out there but the Target is given a significant roll off.
> 
> 
> In either case the Calculated curve will tend to track the Measured curve because ARC is not (by default) applying any corrections up that high in frequency. Raising the Max EQ Frequency Target will make the Calculated curve track closer to the Target, but of course if the Target itself is messed up this won't be good.
> 
> 
> So those of you who have posted charts showing anomalies like this in the high frequencies (using ARC V1.2.5), please consider emailing your ARC data file to Anthem tech support with the request that they dig into it and see what's up.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> Nick also mentioned that the engineers are working on improvements to ARC that will add some additional intelligence to how things are handled up there. No details yet, but it's nice to know they are still working hard on improving this great feature.
> 
> --Bob



I would like to see an "expert mode" added to the 2 modes at hand. I would love to have ARC the ability to measure a single speaker response relative to a given mic position. This would speedup Subwoofer analysis rather than going to several repetitive cycles all the time. Say, if I just want to analyze the response of my center speaker and would want to experiment with its placement it would make my life much easier if this option is available.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14529785
> 
> 
> I would like to see an "expert mode" added to the 2 modes at hand. I would love to have ARC the ability to measure a single speaker response relative to a given mic position. This would speedup Subwoofer analysis rather than going to several repetitive cycles all the time. Say, if I just want to analyze the response of my center speaker and would want to experiment with its placement it would make my life much easier if this option is available.



Plus 1


----------



## bluemark81

Has any progress been made on the hum that occurs when we switch over to the PS3 before the audio kicks in?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14529785
> 
> 
> I would like to see an "expert mode" added to the 2 modes at hand. I would love to have ARC the ability to measure a single speaker response relative to a given mic position. This would speedup Subwoofer analysis rather than going to several repetitive cycles all the time. Say, if I just want to analyze the response of my center speaker and would want to experiment with its placement it would make my life much easier if this option is available.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/14530093
> 
> 
> Plus 1



Plus 2 .... I would really like this because my mains have powered woofers. In addition I'm sure it would come in handy for dialing in my three subwoofers.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14530200
> 
> 
> Has any progress been made on the hum that occurs when we switch over to the PS3 before the audio kicks in?



I don't think I'm seeing this. Do you have a link to where the problem is described?


----------



## Milt99

Wow, been away for awhile, I guess I've got some firmware and ARC upgradin' to do.

Looks like I'll have some fun over the upcoming 4-day weekend










Anyone like to share Kal's D2\\ARC assessment?

I always respect Kal's opinion, I'm just too cheap to pay for it


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/14530658
> 
> 
> Anyone like to share Kal's D2\\ARC assessment?
> 
> I always respect Kal's opinion, I'm just too cheap to pay for it



It will be posted for all to see on the website in less than 60 days (and worth every penny).


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/14530512
> 
> 
> I don't think I'm seeing this. Do you have a link to where the problem is described?



Geeze, I can't seem to find it myself now. In any case, what happens is when I switch to my PS3 from any other source, I get a loud hum until the audio from the disk kicks in. This only appeared since I got ARC installed. Where I can't find reference to it now, I guess I better contact Nick. I thought I read in here that others had the same issue and Nick had reproduced in in their lab and was working on a fix. I must have drempt it.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14530826
> 
> 
> Geeze, I can't seem to find it myself now. In any case, what happens is when I switch to my PS3 from any other source, I get a loud hum until the audio from the disk kicks in. This only appeared since I got ARC installed. Where I can't find reference to it now, I guess I better contact Nick. I thought I read in here that others had the same issue and Nick had reproduced in in their lab and was working on a fix. I must have drempt it.



I have never had a hum with a D2, ARC and a PS3.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14530826
> 
> 
> Geeze, I can't seem to find it myself now. In any case, what happens is when I switch to my PS3 from any other source, I get a loud hum until the audio from the disk kicks in. This only appeared since I got ARC installed. Where I can't find reference to it now, I guess I better contact Nick. I thought I read in here that others had the same issue and Nick had reproduced in in their lab and was working on a fix. I must have drempt it.



There is no hum issue that I know of. There is a "hiss" issue that affects some AVM units during an audio transition. That's the one Anthem is working on.


For your hum issue, consider whether you might have a ground loop. If that doesn't suggest a fix, give Anthem tech support a call. Of course the problem might be in your PS3.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14529116
> 
> 
> *........ I also mentioned that we had charts posted here that showed oddball cases where the Measured curve rolled off significantly at high frequencies but the Target curve remained flat, and cases where the Measured curve was flat or even rising out there and the Target curve was rolled off.
> 
> 
> --Bob
> *


*


Like this ? File sent to Nick. Can't remember with which ARC version this measurement was taken though.


Ben
 *


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14531315
> 
> 
> There is no hum issue that I know of. There is a "hiss" issue that affects some AVM units during an audio transition. That's the one Anthem is working on.
> 
> 
> For your hum issue, consider whether you might have a ground loop. If that doesn't suggest a fix, give Anthem tech support a call. Of course the problem might be in your PS3.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I describe it as a hum, but it might be better described as a hiss. It happens during the audio transition as you describe. It not only happens when switching to my PS3, but also to my DVD player. This ONLY started to occur after the installation of ARC. I will contact Nick today about it though.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14532200
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I describe it as a hum, but it might be better described as a hiss. It happens during the audio transition as you describe. It not only happens when switching to my PS3, but also to my DVD player. This ONLY started to occur after the installation of ARC. I will contact Nick today about it though.



Is your PS3 firmware the latest version? If not you may want to update it. There's no hum or hiss with my PS3/D2 either, but I did have an audio drop out issue with my PS3 that a software update fixed. It's worth a try at least.


----------



## TiVolution




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14519565
> 
> 
> I think AppleTV HDMI is BROKEN on Apple's End.
> 
> I have not been able to get AppleTV to work via
> 
> HDMI to anything - even running direct.
> 
> 
> AppleTV to Apple does not even work.



I've gotten my Apple TV to work via HDMI to my Samsung LCD TV. However, it does not work via the AVM50. Not a big deal as component handles all the resolutions / signals that the Apple TV throws out anyway.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14531984
> 
> 
> Like this ? File sent to Nick. Can't remember with which ARC version this measurement was taken though.
> 
> 
> Ben



Actually no. In your case the Measured curves roll off and so do the Target curves -- so that's what ARC is supposed to be doing in the current version.


Now you can argue that your Measured curves don't roll off THAT MUCH, and so ARC should be more aggressive and keep the Target curve flat out there, but this is not the issue I was talking about where the Target curve doesn't make any sense based on what ARC is showing as the Measured curve.


I suspect the actual data file will show a more significant roll off at some mic positions than the averaged Measured curve shows in the chart, and that's why ARC rolled off the Target.


------------------------------


Based on the slim information I got from Nick, I believe the changes the ARC engineers are working on for high frequency stuff may result in a flatter Target curve in your case (since the Measured curve is not that bad), but that's just a guess on my part.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14532200
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I describe it as a hum, but it might be better described as a hiss. It happens during the audio transition as you describe. It not only happens when switching to my PS3, but also to my DVD player. This ONLY started to occur after the installation of ARC. I will contact Nick today about it though.



Yes, do contact Anthem. As I recall you are on an AVM unit, in which case this is probably the issue they are already working on. But he may be able to make a test version available faster for you if he's got you listed as an affected customer.


I believe their theory is that there is a difference between the dual DSP used in the D2 and the new dual DSP used in the ARC upgrade board for the AVM units that needs to be addressed properly in software.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14532200
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I describe it as a hum, but it might be better described as a hiss. It happens during the audio transition as you describe. It not only happens when switching to my PS3, but also to my DVD player. This ONLY started to occur after the installation of ARC. I will contact Nick today about it though.




I usually get this switching sources and until the hdmi syncs, the buzz/hiss is there. Mute helps to avoid me getting irritated. Sometimes I forget and it can be very loud. Problem is with AVM 50 and Nick assures me they are working on it.

John


----------



## dlynch34

Here are my arc measurements if anyone would like to comment.



Don


----------



## dlynch34

the rest..


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/14534065
> 
> 
> Here are my arc measurements if anyone would like to comment.
> 
> 
> 
> Don



What kind of speakers are you running?


Thanks..


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14533920
> 
> 
> Actually no. In your case the Measured curves roll off and so do the Target curves -- so that's what ARC is supposed to be doing in the current version.
> 
> 
> Now you can argue that your Measured curves don't roll off THAT MUCH, and so ARC should be more aggressive and keep the Target curve flat out there, but this is not the issue I was talking about where the Target curve doesn't make any sense based on what ARC is showing as the Measured curve.
> 
> 
> I suspect the actual data file will show a more significant roll off at some mic positions than the averaged Measured curve shows in the chart, and that's why ARC rolled off the Target.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob, here's another measurement taken about the same time. Not much different from the earlier one, but look at the straight target curve. How does this correlate with your above comment.

Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/14534065
> 
> 
> Here are my arc measurements if anyone would like to comment.
> 
> 
> 
> Don



These results look very good to me.


Your Measured curves look good enough already that I think you might get good results raising the Max EQ Frequency Target to a higher value to help some of that loss in the high frequencies. I'd try 12KHz first.


When experimenting with different Calculations, keep an eye on the Center channel calculated results as that's where I think you may start having problems when you divert ARC's processing resources to higher frequencies.


That low bass response in the Center channel is bizarre -- you've got one heck of a boundary gain or resonance down there. Is it sitting in a kettle drum? Anyway, ARC has that under control right now, but might have problems if you raise the frequency limit.


Also your side surrounds look a little weaker than the other speakers in the high frequencies. Consider re-pointing them or adjusting their height to get more of their treble into the listening area.


The subwoofer looks fine. The drop-off at 20Hz is only a few dB below the 75dB basic Target level ARC is using. It looks more dramatic because ARC seems to have assigned a large-ish Room Gain to your setup (the hump in the curves). What is ARC showing as the Room Gain number in the Targets window? My guess would be about 4.0. Anyway I don't think you've got any sub issues.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14534800
> 
> 
> Bob, here's another measurement taken about the same time. Not much different from the earlier one, but look at the straight target curve. How does this correlate with your above comment.
> 
> Ben



My guess would be that your Measurements are right on the edge of whether ARC decides it needs to roll off up there. So slight differences between Measurements result in flat vs. rolled off.


If we could view the actual data for each mic position (instead of the single averaged curve), it might be more obvious what's going on.


In both this chart and the prior one you are only down about 4dB out there, which is not much, but in the prior chart (the one that included the roll off) there is a higher peak just to the left of that which may indicate ARC is seeing more real roll off in the Measurement for that one.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A new version of the AVM-50 V1.33 firmware has just appeared on the password protected download page.


This one identifies itself as: "AVM 50 v1.33 (18 aug 08)"


The release notes read:



> Quote:
> v1.33 (Aug 18 version)
> 
> 
> 1. Added ability to install AVM 50 v1.33 into AVM 30-HD, which was missing from previous release.



There is no mention of how this might affect ARC for the AVM 30-HD, although loading V1.33 would of course be a prerequisite for ARC support. There is also no mention of this version addressing the AVM "hiss" issue.

*ETA: This 8/18 version of AVM-50 V1.33 firmware is also now on the PUBLIC download page for the AVM-50. IT IS OFFICIAL!*

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is a new statement on the public software download page for the D2 that reads:



> Quote:
> New Settings Editor is not yet available, coming soon!



I believe this is actually referring to the old "Setup Editor" windows application that was used to save, restore and manipulate Setup menu settings. The most recent version of Setup Editor -- V1.29e -- is not compatible with the V1.3x firmware releases and can only be used for the very limited function of doing direct dumps of the Setup menu contents to and from a PC file. Looks like they will be releasing a new, compatible version soon.


The separate "LiveVideoSettingsEditor" windows application -- the one used to save, restore and manipulate Video Source Adjust menu settings ALREADY exists in a compatible form and is included in the V1.33 firmware install kit downloadable from the public download page.


ETA: The same note has been added to the public download page for the AVM products.

--Bob


----------



## J. FRICANO

Hello Bob, I am interested in a near future purchase of a BD player that can decode the High Rez sound formats,(DTS MA as well as Dolby True HD), within the player to LPCM for input via HDMI to the D2. I was on the Pioneer 51/05 thread in this forum and would like your input as to the possibility of a good match-up for my system. I don't need the interractive features of the discs, so I wouldn't use BD Live. I just watch movies or concerts for their program content only. Also can the "High Speed" setting for video on these players be used with the scaler in the Anthem? Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks John.


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14530714
> 
> 
> It will be posted for all to see on the website in less than 60 days (and worth every penny).



Great well written review Kal. Love the mag., John.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/14535417
> 
> 
> Hello Bob, I am interested in a near future purchase of a BD player that can decode the High Rez sound formats,(DTS MA as well as Dolby True HD), within the player to LPCM for input via HDMI to the D2. I was on the Pioneer 51/05 thread in this forum and would like your input as to the possibility of a good match-up for my system. I don't need the interractive features of the discs, so I wouldn't use BD Live. I just watch movies or concerts for their program content only. Also can the "High Speed" setting for video on these players be used with the scaler in the Anthem? Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks John.



Personally I still like the 40GB PS3 (or the latest, 80GB upgrade to that model) as the best Blu-Ray player to match up to the D2. I think the jury is still out on some of these new players.


The Pioneer 51FD and 05FD are missing one crucial piece of the puzzle for use with the D2 -- they don't yet decode DTS-HD MA tracks internally. That will come (as a firmware update), but so far there is no time estimate on when. The only thing we know is that Pioneer is talking about January for that firmware for the Australian version of these players. Until DTS-HD MA decoding arrives for these players I would not recommend them for use with the D2.


The D2 is an HDMI V1.1 device. It does not support HDMI V1.3 "Deep Color" nor the xv.YCC color gamut. It *DOES* accept 12-bits per component (24 bits per pixel) YCbCr 4:2:2 format, but it is not clear yet whether the Pioneer players will take good advantage of that.


The "high speed" setting in the Pioneer players would be necessary if you want to send 1080p/60 to the D2. That setting also enables things like Deep Color and xv.YCC in the player, but the HDMI handshake would tell the player the D2 doesn't want those and so the player would use "normal" color bit depth and color gamut automatically.


----------------------------------------------------------


There are unconfirmed rumors that Anthem is working on a new product, most likely for next year, that might include some of these HDMI V1.3 features, but there are no details yet on feature set, pricing, or availability, nor on what this might mean for current D2 customers (e.g., an upgrade or trade-in). Such rumors have existed ever since the D2 came out 2 years ago (and obviously there's no new product yet), but they seem to be gathering steam recently.

--Bob


----------



## J. FRICANO

Thank you very much Bob, John.


----------



## dlynch34

Thanks for your input Bob! To answer the previous post I have JBL studio L's. Yes I was also thinking My surrounds may be a bit high in my room. I have 10 foot ceilings and they are sitting around the 8ft range I would guess... Still not certain where they should be and will have to experiment. Yes I will try to change to 12knz and see what that does. Yes my sub sounds fantastic now in my room.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14535218
> 
> 
> A new version of the AVM-50 V1.33 firmware has just appeared on the password protected download page.
> 
> 
> This one identifies itself as: "AVM 50 v1.33 (18 aug 08)"
> 
> 
> The release notes read:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no mention of how this might affect ARC for the AVM 30-HD, although loading V1.33 would of course be a prerequisite for ARC support. There is also no mention of this version addressing the AVM "hiss" issue.
> 
> *ETA: This 8/18 version of AVM-50 V1.33 firmware is also now on the PUBLIC download page for the AVM-50. IT IS OFFICIAL!*
> 
> http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Are you suggesting that this is a version that improves upon the 1.33 AVM 50,s have now and could/should be installed?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14537002
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Are you suggesting that this is a version that improves upon the 1.33 AVM 50,s have now and could/should be installed?
> 
> John



Since they didn't change the version number, no. I suspect this was only a change in the installer itself to enable installation on the AVM30-HD.


I don't think it contains any bug fixes or feature changes. But if you are going to do a re-install for any reason, this one is now the "official" version.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

walt here, with new files. had an issue with arc accepting the sub output - there was an ongoing +10db sub reading spread twixt position 1 and all others. finally moved the sub, but, as the files reflect(at least to me), the sub output rolls off way too soon!?

and i had a continuing error message reporting too much room noise. there was nothing running! i even stopped breathing. it took 2 hours to perform a 15 minute proceedure. arc just would not reconsile the sub with the other speakers.









here are the files.

as always, smiles to ya'll.

walt


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14538137
> 
> 
> walt here, with new files. had an issue with arc accepting the sub output - there was an ongoing +10db sub reading spread twixt position 1 and all others. finally moved the sub, but, as the files reflect(at least to me), the sub output rolls off way too soon!?
> 
> and i had a continuing error message reporting too much room noise. there was nothing running! i even stopped breathing. it took 2 hours to perform a 15 minute proceedure. arc just would not reconsile the sub with the other speakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here are the files.
> 
> as always, smiles to ya'll.
> 
> walt



Walt,


I've had this happen a couple of times. Each time, I rebooted the laptop and redid the measurements without any issues. You should not have to move your sub or anything drastic like that to get ARC to complete properly.


Buddy


----------



## obie_fl

Walt - A quick look at your sub plot to me seems like you have the crossover turned all the way down on the sub.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/14539173
> 
> 
> Walt - A quick look at your sub plot to me seems like you have the crossover turned all the way down on the sub.



I agree.


Walt, double check what you are doing to disable the internal crossover inside your subwoofer. It appears that a very low frequency crossover filter setting is active inside your subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14539432
> 
> 
> I agree.
> 
> 
> Walt, double check what you are doing to disable the internal crossover inside your subwoofer. It appears that a very low frequency crossover filter setting is active inside your subwoofer.
> 
> --Bob




Aside from that , you should increase your noise level via setup menu(speaker level calibration) by 6 dB to get a faily adequate test signal above your NC(noise criteria or your average ambient noise)


----------



## DKA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14516540
> 
> 
> My settings restored ok. The proper hdmi input for video as well as Dig Hdmi for audio.
> 
> 
> Hdmi audio from the Oppo was still enabled.
> 
> 
> Video shows up so my hdmi cables must be fully inserted and not defective.
> 
> 
> Hdmi audio works on both my other hdmi sources.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> John



John,


I have the exact same problem. Turns out the 2nd hdmi controller (controls hdmi inputs 3 and 4) is bad. Have you tried your Oppo in any other hdmi inputs that you know to be working correctly?


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14539718
> 
> 
> Aside from that , you should increase your noise level via setup menu(speaker level calibration) by 6 dB to get a faily adequate test signal above your NC(noise criteria or your average ambient noise)



thanks to all. will rework the controls (four to choose from)(servo 15 sub)









fyi all my previous targets have been lowered in this latest measurement.

walt


----------



## sunshine108j

Dear Anthem enthusiast,


I want to complement all of you for having so much knowledge and information on equipment and I am please to find a thread that focuses of what I think is one of the market for its price. having have said this I am a novice when it comes to stereo equipment, but with forums like this I feel I have been able to obtain my dream equipment (know is I only knew how to use it  ). My equipment consists of:


Dali speakers

Euphonia MS4, euphonia CS4, euphonia AS2, euphonia phantom


Anthem D2

Cary Audio Model 7.125

Pioneer 50" 1080p Flat Panel Plasma HDTV - PDP5010FD

I am frustrated with my knowledge to output the best signal for video. I have TW cable and that is the first problem and from my readings I gave up trying to get the HDMI signal from the TW box to my Anthem D2 and I use component to get my signal to the Anthem and HDMI to my TV (I really wanted to use HDMI)

The next problem I have is how to set up the TV, I have read the site and I try to get everything to its native level and I think I done this if anyone has this TV can you let me know your settings so I can compare with what I have enable and disable in my TV?

The other problem that follows is adjusting to I can get 1080p out to the TV sometimes I feel I have it other times it is not, I try to change the configurations for those times I feel I do not have true 1080p and I think I get it just have it change back when I go between channels. I am going to get this new calibration tool from the Anthem people and I hope it will help me with the audio calibration. Again anyone that has the same TV and the Anthem D2 can you share your setting with me?

My next purchase is a piece of hardware that does Blue Ray and a computer that I can go to the internet, listen to music that I download and watch movies. I was thinking to buy a PS3 for the blue ray and build my own computer for my other objective, but I see that I can buy a high end graphics card that can also due Blue Ray, I will like to some help and advice to see if I can build a computer with the best components I can find that will allowed me to do this two things. I want to know what is the best mother board in the market, what is the best graphic card that does HDMI for both audio and video so I can have one system that will meet those two needs. The graphic card should be able to play movies and listen to music by means of HDMI to HDMI connector, price is not an object for this piece of equipment.


Thank you in advance


Fred


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sunshine108j* /forum/post/14541803
> 
> 
> Dear Anthem enthusiast,
> 
> 
> I want to complement all of you for having so much knowledge and information on equipment and I am please to find a thread that focuses of what I think is one of the market for its price. having have said this I am a novice when it comes to stereo equipment, but with forums like this I feel I have been able to obtain my dream equipment (know is I only knew how to use it  ). My equipment consists of:
> 
> 
> Dali speakers
> 
> Euphonia MS4, euphonia CS4, euphonia AS2, euphonia phantom
> 
> 
> Anthem D2
> 
> Cary Audio Model 7.125
> 
> Pioneer 50" 1080p Flat Panel Plasma HDTV - PDP5010FD
> 
> I am frustrated with my knowledge to output the best signal for video. I have TW cable and that is the first problem and from my readings I gave up trying to get the HDMI signal from the TW box to my Anthem D2 and I use component to get my signal to the Anthem and HDMI to my TV (I really wanted to use HDMI)
> 
> The next problem I have is how to set up the TV, I have read the site and I try to get everything to its native level and I think I done this if anyone has this TV can you let me know your settings so I can compare with what I have enable and disable in my TV?
> 
> The other problem that follows is adjusting to I can get 1080p out to the TV sometimes I feel I have it other times it is not, I try to change the configurations for those times I feel I do not have true 1080p and I think I get it just have it change back when I go between channels. I am going to get this new calibration tool from the Anthem people and I hope it will help me with the audio calibration. Again anyone that has the same TV and the Anthem D2 can you share your setting with me?
> 
> My next purchase is a piece of hardware that does Blue Ray and a computer that I can go to the internet, listen to music that I download and watch movies. I was thinking to buy a PS3 for the blue ray and build my own computer for my other objective, but I see that I can buy a high end graphics card that can also due Blue Ray, I will like to some help and advice to see if I can build a computer with the best components I can find that will allowed me to do this two things. I want to know what is the best mother board in the market, what is the best graphic card that does HDMI for both audio and video so I can have one system that will meet those two needs. The graphic card should be able to play movies and listen to music by means of HDMI to HDMI connector, price is not an object for this piece of equipment.
> 
> 
> Thank you in advance
> 
> 
> Fred



Fred, many people report HDMI problems from various cable TV set top boxes. Unfortunately the companies that put out those boxes aren't particularly careful about how they engineer the HDMI in them. Using Component video connections (and optical digital audio connections) from your Time Warner cable box is perfectly acceptable -- you are losing nothing.


Anthem is working on a new version of their own HDMI code that may work better with your TW cable box -- basically working around the problems in the HDMI in the TW box. That is not available yet.


-------------------------------------------------


Be sure to read the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread. That will give you all the basics for setting up video.


Remember that there are two video resolutions at work when you are watching something: (1) The video resolution sent by your source device to the D2, and (2) The video resolution the D2 sends to your TV.


The video resolution the D2 sends to your TV never changes unless you manually select a different Setup / Video Output configuration. The D2 converts whatever it gets as input video into the one format you have setup in Video Output.


So most likely what you are seeing is that the *INPUT* video -- from your source device -- is changing. It is quite common for cable TV boxes to switch between standard definition and high definition resolution when you change channels. This is actually desirable. Again, read that calibration post I just mentioned and see if it helps.


To see what's really happening for input and output at any moment, go to the Info panel in the D2 and look at what it is currently receiving as video input and what it is sending out as video output. To do that, select whatever source you want to use -- for example your Time Warner cable box, then press and hold the "7" key on the D2 remote until the Video Source Adjust menu appears on screen. Finally, scroll right with the arrow key on the D2 remote to display the Info panel of that menu.


There is likely a setting in your Time Warner box that will force it to always output 1080i/60 regardless of what channel you are watching, but I recommend you leave it set to output 480i/60 whenever you change channels to a standard definition TV channel. I.e., let the D2 scale that up to 1080p/60 for you instead of having the TW box scale it to 1080i/60.


-----------------------------------------------


There is a whole forum here devoted to "Home Theater PC" enthusiasts -- folks who build audio/video setups around a computer. I'm afraid this is a pretty complicated subject, and not one that I can help you with.


Personally, I would recommend you start with a regular Blu-Ray player -- I like the 40GB model of the PS3 -- and get that working the way you like before you start playing with doing things via a computer. Then you will know how it is supposed to work and can compare what you are getting from the computer.


For advice on particular computer A/V boards to use and how to set them up, check out this forum here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=26 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DKA* /forum/post/14540195
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> I have the exact same problem. Turns out the 2nd hdmi controller (controls hdmi inputs 3 and 4) is bad. Have you tried your Oppo in any other hdmi inputs that you know to be working correctly?



I take it Anthem needs to swap out your video board, right?


Did your problem also happen at the same time you did a firmware install in the Anthem?

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Have noticed a few anomalies....

In running ARC on D-2s, 3 different but similar systems, consistantly got sub at 40-45 with mains at 35-40.

With ARC on AVM 50s, mine and almost everyone else is getting sub120

What gives?

Anyone else noticed different scales 60-90 for some spks, 50-80 for others?

Would be nice if they were the same (am aware that info is valid)

Will try to attach a few of our files. Bob (and others), please comment specifically on the AVM50-5 set. This is our demo room and we were aware of a 50hz bump prior to arcing. Would you try the 12k run?

thanks,

tjg

 

Anthem chart AVM50_4.pdf 126.3271484375k . file

 

Anthem chart Crockett.pdf 136.501953125k . file

 

Anthem chart MTSV_D2.pdf 133.779296875k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/14542677
> 
> 
> Have noticed a few anomalies....
> 
> In running ARC on D-2s, 3 different but similar systems, consistantly got sub at 40-45 with mains at 35-40.
> 
> With ARC on AVM 50s, mine and almost everyone else is getting sub120
> 
> What gives?
> 
> Anyone else noticed different scales 60-90 for some spks, 50-80 for others?
> 
> Would be nice if they were the same (am aware that info is valid)
> 
> Will try to attach a few of our files. Bob (and others), please comment specifically on the AVM50-5 set. This is our demo room and we were aware of a 50hz bump prior to arcing. Would you try the 12k run?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> tjg



When viewing the ARC charts the scaling of each chart is set automatically by the ARC application to what it thinks works best to show off all the data.


However you can change the scaling for any given chart to whatever you want. Simply put the mouse over that particular chart (you may have to click on it as well) and "scroll" vertically or horizontally to change the scale.


I haven't actually played with that much since the auto-scaling works fine for my charts, but I know it works because I've done it accidentally a few times.


It may be that you can "drag" the charts to reposition the content without changing the scale as well. I haven't tried that.


---------------------------------


Are you using the same subwoofer and internal subwoofer setup for all of these? The chart labeled "MTSV_D2" shows a really strong dip in the subwoofer Measured curve from 50Hz to 80Hz. That's a 20dB dip (huge!) and ARC is wisely trying to avoid it by setting the sub crossover Target low and depending on the other speakers to take over.


It looks to me like that subwoofer either has a notch filter engaged (and cranked way up) or that it is faulty.


The other 2 charts show about a 10dB swing there which ARC is also trying to avoid, but not so aggressively. If these are all using the same subwoofer with the same setup then something odd is definitely going on.


Now one of your charts is labeled "AVM50-4" -- not "AVM50-5" as you mentioned in your post. And that one shows a slower roll off of the sub Target curve but it still looks to me like the sub crossover is set to around 60Hz in that Target -- not the 120Hz that you mentioned. Did you post the wrong chart?


There's also something strange going on with the Center speaker in the "Crockett" chart. You've got a 17dB swing from 100 to 160Hz. It may have a faulty internal crossover. Something like that will force ARC to raise the crossover for the Center speaker which means it also likely needs a higher crossover in the subwoofer to fill in the gap. I can't tell whether the "Crockett" chart is a D2 or AVM unit.


-----------------------------------


It would certainly be worth experimenting with raising the Max EQ Frequency Target in each of these charts. It looks like you are most likely to have problem show up first in the Center speaker chart if you push that too far (and thus divert ARC resources to the higher frequencies).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

TJG55,

One other thought. Since you are dealing with multiple systems, each with its own ARC kit, I want to be sure you realize that you have to use the specific ARC mic that came with the licensed ARC kit for each individual Anthem unit.


You can not use the same ARC mic for different Anthem units.


The ARC application will refuse to run if you try to use some random USB mic which isn't an ARC mic, but it can't tell whether you are using the CORRECT ARC mic. You have to do that yourself -- using the mic's serial number and the name of the two licensing/ calibration files (from the ARC install CD with each ARC kit) that include the serial number of the licensed Anthem unit and the serial number of the correct ARC mic.


If you use the wrong ARC mic then the mic calibration files used by the ARC application will be incorrect for that mic and you will get screwy results.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

B

Yes, we were using correst mike in each. Below is correct chart, #5. Sub in all cases was s-15 set properly with xover full open, gain at ~12 oclock, contour at 0. Scaling differences were all within same measurement set(5)

Crockett chart is for client with D-2 and less than optimal spk placements in his home. MTSV D-2 was in store demo room. MTSV AVM 50-5 was in same room, same spks but with new S100s and S-15. Notice all xovers are same with D-2 and 50 except for sub and center. Hope this clarifies situation. Sorry for incorrect charts, there are three of us collaborating on this. In 4 we forced target xover to 65 for sub just to see results.

thanx

tjg

 

Anthem chart MTSV AVM50_5.pdf 130.5185546875k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/14544061
> 
> 
> B
> 
> Yes, we were using correst mike in each. Below is correct chart, #5. Sub in all cases was s-15 set properly with xover full open, gain at ~12 oclock, contour at 0. Scaling differences were all within same measurement set(5)
> 
> Crockett chart is for client with D-2 and less than optimal spk placements in his home. MTSV D-2 was in store demo room. MTSV AVM 50-5 was in same room, same spks but with new S100s and S-15. Notice all xovers are same with D-2 and 50 except for sub and center. Hope this clarifies situation. Sorry for incorrect charts, there are three of us collaborating on this. In 4 we forced target xover to 65 for sub just to see results.
> 
> thanx
> 
> tjg



Well the key difference seems to be that the sub was changed out. The sub you used for the MTSV D2 measurement seems to have a problem.


I suspect what happened with the Center speaker was that ARC biased the solution for the Center upwards because it was setting the sub to be only used in the lowest frequencies. Both charts show some pretty odd stuff for the Center speaker between 50Hz and 100Hz and I suspect ARC had to struggle a bit to come up with a solution that would work in the D2 case given the sub's problem and decided to minimize the overlap between them.


Did you change out the Center speaker as well for the AVM50 run?


I also notice the basic level is about 5dB higher in the MTSV AVM50-5 version -- better setting of Noise Level perhaps? That may have given ARC some cleaner data to work with in that case, but I don't really think that's a key difference.


I think most of the things that are puzzling you in this can be connected to that really sharp deep dip in the subwoofer used in the MTSV D2 run.

--Bob


----------



## DKA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14542341
> 
> 
> I take it Anthem needs to swap out your video board, right?
> 
> 
> Did your problem also happen at the same time you did a firmware install in the Anthem?
> 
> --Bob



Yes, my D2 is at Anthem right now for repair.


I'm not sure if the problem has any relation to firmware upgrades, as I've only used first two hdmi inputs for the year that I've owned the processor and was running v1.33 the first time I tried using hdmi 3 or 4.


----------



## lalarsons

The CPU I use to run D2 SW upgrades is quite noisy, sometimes requires a remeasure sequence, but can be placed in another nearby room. Regarding ARC setup, what problems might I expect if using a longer USB Mic cable (i.e 40 ft in length), or a USB cable extension to the existing supplied mic cable (i.e. +25 ft)?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/14545555
> 
> 
> The CPU I use to run D2 SW upgrades is quite noisy, sometimes requires a remeasure sequence, but can be placed in another nearby room. Regarding ARC setup, what problems might I expect if using a longer USB Mic cable (i.e 40 ft in length), or a USB cable extension to the existing supplied mic cable (i.e. +25 ft)?



I use a 15ft Tripp Lite USB 2.0, and I have not had any problems. This allows me to sit in the room adjacent to my listening room when I run ARC.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/14545555
> 
> 
> The CPU I use to run D2 SW upgrades is quite noisy, sometimes requires a remeasure sequence, but can be placed in another nearby room. Regarding ARC setup, what problems might I expect if using a longer USB Mic cable (i.e 40 ft in length), or a USB cable extension to the existing supplied mic cable (i.e. +25 ft)?




according to USB.org. it should be no more than 16.5ft. You have to use a POWERED HUB to make the cable longer with a maximum of 5 hubs in series or a maximum of 100ft. In your case you can use 2 powered hubs and two 5 meter cables for a total lenght of 50ft.


I would not try just using a passive extender, it might corrupt data.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/14545555
> 
> 
> The CPU I use to run D2 SW upgrades is quite noisy, sometimes requires a remeasure sequence, but can be placed in another nearby room. Regarding ARC setup, what problems might I expect if using a longer USB Mic cable (i.e 40 ft in length), or a USB cable extension to the existing supplied mic cable (i.e. +25 ft)?



I USE an ACTIVE USB Cable - *This one*


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14512362
> 
> *Audio-Only Blu-Ray Discs Starting to Appear!*
> 
> 
> I was just on Amazon and noticed that they have already started to carry audio-only Blu-Ray discs: DTS-HD MA 7.1 at 24 bits / 96KHz.
> 
> 
> Do a search within "Blu-Ray" for "audio".
> 
> 
> Apparently these are actually 5.1 high-bandwidth recordings that have been processed to add the rear channels. But that may not be true for all of them. In any event, they should work just peachy through a D2.
> 
> 
> I've ordered a couple to give them a try but they are out of stock at the moment. Has anyone else here tried one of these through an ARC'd D2 yet?
> 
> --Bob



Bob, which ones did you order may I ask? I only see 5 total on Amazon, searching as you described. Am I missing some? I may order the Tschaikovsky Concerti in any case, as I'm putting together a larger order. Just curious if I am missing a larger collection.


Thanks,

Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/14547028
> 
> 
> Bob, which ones did you order may I ask? I only see 5 total on Amazon, searching as you described. Am I missing some? I may order the Tschaikovsky Concerti in any case, as I'm putting together a larger order. Just curious if I am missing a larger collection.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brian



No, there are just that handful right now. However that's the first of them that I've seen so things are just starting. Audio-only Blu-Ray is happening earlier than I thought it would!


I ordered the Rachmaninoff and the Vivaldi to try it out. They both shipped to me yesterday and should be here tomorrow.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

Bob,


Will you be at CEDIA this year? Any word if Nick will be there also?


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14547186
> 
> 
> No, there are just that handful right now. However that's the first of them that I've seen so things are just starting. Audio-only Blu-Ray is happening earlier than I thought it would!



I certainly hope so but the evidence is not strong. The man behind these releases has been an almost solitary champion of music-only HD discs, first with his HD-DVD series and now with these Blu-Rays, all of which derive from old(er) Naxos originals. So, while I applaud Alexander Jero's efforts, it will take more than one man's efforts and more than remastered recordings to make this a medium.


Although I am not a fan of video concerts, it may be that producers and many buyers would find Blu-Rays with video content more attractive. In fact, I have been hugely impressed with the Opus Arte, Universal and Harmonia Mundi opera and ballet Blu-Rays, even though I usually only listen to them after the first 1 or 2 viewings.


Still, it is early and I am trying to stay optimistic.


----------



## Milt99

Personally, I'm hoping that hi-def concert videos catch on.

The few I've watched\\own are outstanding and my casual viewer friends are blown away. I also have very high hopes for the upcoming Neil Young Archive set.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14547210
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Will you be at CEDIA this year? Any word if Nick will be there also?



I will not be there, so I'm depending on the rest of you to dig up all the good stuff!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14547266
> 
> 
> I certainly hope so but the evidence is not strong. The man behind these releases has been an almost solitary champion of music-only HD discs, first with his HD-DVD series and now with these Blu-Rays, all of which derive from old(er) Naxos originals. So, while I applaud Alexander Jero's efforts, it will take more than one man's efforts and more than remastered recordings to make this a medium.
> 
> 
> Although I am not a fan of video concerts, it may be that producers and many buyers would find Blu-Rays with video content more attractive. In fact, I have been hugely impressed with the Opus Arte, Universal and Harmonia Mundi opera and ballet Blu-Rays, even though I usually only listen to them after the first 1 or 2 viewings.
> 
> 
> Still, it is early and I am trying to stay optimistic.



Personally I think audio-only Blu-Ray is a product for the end of NEXT year, perhaps not even making it for Christmas next year. That's why I was surprised to see these showing up right now.


This Christmas will be the end of CDs, and players featuring "higher end" audio are already slated for the end of this year. BD profile 3.0 players (audio-only players) will probably first start showing up for Christmas next year. And as attractive as downloading might be, a non-volatile multi-gigabyte memory pre-loaded with high quality audio will still be a winner.


The HD-DVD version was premature and of course that's gone now. The key thing is that every Blu-Ray player, particularly every Blu-Ray player sold into an HDMI-based surround sound setup, is ready to go for audio like this.


I'll be very surprised if it doesn't take off by 2010.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14548012
> 
> 
> I'll be very surprised if it doesn't take off by 2010.--Bob



I hope you are right. I invested heavily in SACD (and I am not sorry that I did) but, as it fades, I look forward to a successful replacement medium with comparably high quality and multichannel.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal rubinson* /forum/post/14550303
> 
> 
> i hope you are right. I invested heavily in sacd (and i am not sorry that i did) but, as it fades, i look forward to a successful replacement medium with comparably high quality and multichannel.



+1


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Another interesting sign about the maturing of Blu-Ray is that specialty "quality" labels are starting to put their toe into the water. For example, at Amazon search for "criterion" within "blu-ray".


And I think we are getting pretty close to the point were you can say new Blu-Ray players do standard DVDs just as well, and just as conveniently as the best standard DVD players. The new Pioneer players may even pull that off, although right now they still seem to have performance issues that keep them out of that class.


But on the audio side you still need a few things to happen. First, the retailers need to be convinced the time has come to replace CD shelf space with something else. Poor sales of CDs this Christmas will do that.


Then you need the price to come down on the cheapest Blu-Ray players. That will happen next year. Even the cheapest Blu-Ray players will play audio-only Blu-Ray discs and all you have to do is have the stereo down-mix sound better than CDs on cheap CD players (not hard) and MP3/iPod downloads in at least the lossy formats (only slightly harder). They will be heavily advertised as having "Full Blu-Ray Quality!" even though that's not the case.


Then you need the mainline manufacturers to announce the first BD 3.0 (audio-only) players. That will almost certainly happen next year. A key piece of this will be getting the power consumption down far enough in the chip sets to allow portable units, and since audio processing doesn't need anywhere near the bandwidth of video that's not that hard (particularly when playing only the "core" or "associated" lossy tracks). Again, this will be oversold as to quality but the "Blu-Ray" buzzword will suffice to carry that over the top.


And finally you just need some time to pass for folks with SACD and DVD-Audio libraries to start transferring them to Blu-Ray. There's a ready library of that stuff and the SACD stuff, in particular, is almost certainly ready for transfer from a licensing perspective (due to Sony's influence). So it just takes some time for folks to do the work. But an audio-only transfer should be a LOT faster/cheaper to produce than mastering a film for Blu-Ray.


NEW recordings for Blu-Ray will only happen when sales of prior titles show the market is there. But unlike when SACD and DVD-Audio launched there is ALREADY a tidy library of recordings that can be easily resold as Blu-Ray, and so the market can be primed with those.


Now the earliest titles will be niche market titles of course, the same as happened when CD started to begin with. And the producers need to figure out how to take advantage of the capacity of Blu-Ray discs. The "one hour of music" model just won't cut it in the long run. And quality alone can not be the differentiator. But by putting "extras" on the disc -- e.g., lower quality "earlier versions" of the music or commentary tracks, or slide shows or even video documentaries for when the discs are played on video Blu-Ray players -- it can be a new experience. Fill up the disc with lower quality crap like this and no download can match it. Heck they could even do stuff with BD-Live I suppose.


It is a well established fact that consumers gravitate towards releases that come with lots of "extras", even if they never actually view/listen to them. They'll even pay MORE money for a poorer quality transfer so long as it comes with extras. And they'll buy the same title multiple times to get newer ones that now come with extras. Ka-ching!


The thing is, none of that "extras" nonsense has to happen to get it STARTED. Over time they can RE-RELEASE the SAME audio tracks on new discs with the extras and sell them a 2nd time or even a 3rd time to the same buyers. Eventually, "extras" on an audio disc will become expected, but to start it will be a real cash cow -- churning out multiple sales of the same title for only a tiny investment in producing the extra content.


And at $15 to $20 a pop for JUST AUDIO -- higher for discs with lots of "extras" or for releases from the "high quality" labels.


Oh my yes, I can't see the music business passing up an opportunity like this.


----------------------------------------------------


ETA: One other thing that likely has to happen is for player makers and AVR makers to do proper QA on whether people can use players and AVRs to play music over HDMI when the TV is turned off (i.e., getting the HDCP copy protection stuff to work right when there's no TV to talk to). It's astounding to me, but there are still players and still AVRs being launched that screw this up.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DKA* /forum/post/14540195
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> I have the exact same problem. Turns out the 2nd hdmi controller (controls hdmi inputs 3 and 4) is bad. Have you tried your Oppo in any other hdmi inputs that you know to be working correctly?



No I haven't but I believe it is plugged into hdmi1. I guess I could try input 3 or 4.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14550967
> 
> 
> No I haven't but I believe it is plugged into hdmi1. I guess I could try input 3 or 4.



BEFORE MOVING THE PLUG! Get a flashlight and take a careful look at both the plug and the current HDMI socket looking for pin damage. If you see any, DO NOT USE THE SAME CABLE. Get a new cable.


Pin damage can be transferred from socket to socket if the plug is damaged.


If you have an HDMI controller failure then of course you won't spot anything here. And of course you still have video so pin damage is less likely than if you had complete loss of both audio and video. But it is wise to check anyway whenever you are moving plugs to different sockets due to any sort of HDMI signal problem.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14551003
> 
> 
> BEFORE MOVING THE PLUG! Get a flashlight and take a careful look at both the plug and the current HDMI socket looking for pin damage. If you see any, DO NOT USE THE SAME CABLE. Get a new cable.
> 
> 
> Pin damage can be transferred from socket to socket if the plug is damaged.
> 
> 
> If you have an HDMI controller failure then of course you won't spot anything here. And of course you still have video so pin damage is less likely than if you had complete loss of both audio and video. But it is wise to check anyway whenever you are moving plugs to different sockets due to any sort of HDMI signal problem.
> 
> --Bob



Pin damage is not possible as I never unplugged the hdmi cable before doing the update to V1.33. I unplugged the power cord instead. It worked before the upgrade and after the upgrade I get no sound but I do get picture. I also use port savers so as to not damage my D2.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_fitz* /forum/post/14551032
> 
> 
> Pin damage is not possible as I never unplugged the hdmi cable before doing the update to V1.33. I unplugged the power cord instead. It worked before the upgrade and after the upgrade I get no sound but I do get picture. I also use port savers so as to not damage my D2.
> 
> 
> John



Okey doke!

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Just got a new BenQ W5000. Given it does 1080p/24, is the Gennum processor doing anything or has it become an expensive switcher between my Hd DVD and PS3 and the pj?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Even if the input and output resolutions and frame rates are the same, the Gennum is still in there chugging away. For example it implements the Picture settings in the Video Source Adjust menu. It also does the Custom cropping and scaling for folks doing Constant Image Height setups. It also provides output adjustment such as Custom Gamma Correction. Etc.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14553847
> 
> 
> Even if the input and output resolutions and frame rates are the same, the Gennum is still in there chugging away. For example it implements the Picture settings in the Video Source Adjust menu. It also does the Custom cropping and scaling for folks doing Constant Image Height setups. It also provides output adjustment such as Custom Gamma Correction. Etc.
> 
> --Bob



2 years plus of having the best video processing is well worth every penny. We still have regular TV, 1080i HD and of course DVD's that need to be processed for optimum quality.


----------



## jayray

Since ARC was installed, I have not had any of those weird diagonal red and blue lines running through my setup menu. Still keeping my fingers crossed.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14554628
> 
> 
> Since ARC was installed, I have not had any of those weird diagonal red and blue lines running through my setup menu. Still keeping my fingers crossed.
> 
> John



That's interesting. Are you using an AVM unit so that they had to install the new DSP board?

--Bob


----------



## [email protected]

Bob,

I was just wondering why the volume settings are so different during movie playback (-17 db) vs listening to music (-45). I am not sure if the noise reference level has anything to do with it but the noise referece level in the AVM50 is set to 4.0 to achieve 75 db across my Totem Mani-2 (4 ohm resistance). Does this seem right? Thanks in advance.


German


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14554859
> 
> 
> That's interesting. Are you using an AVM unit so that they had to install the new DSP board?
> 
> --Bob



Yes. Might be an unexpected bonus of ARC









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/14556153
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I was just wondering why the volume settings are so different during movie playback (-17 db) vs listening to music (-45). I am not sure if the noise reference level has anything to do with it but the noise referece level in the AVM50 is set to 4.0 to achieve 75 db across my Totem Mani-2 (4 ohm resistance). Does this seem right? Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> German



Well that's a bit more extreme than I normally find, but there is often difference between various types of content.


I set my D2 around 75dB as well, and find that I do most music listening in the range -35db to -20dB and most movie listening in the range -25dB to -10dB with the variation depending on the particular stuff I'm playing. Jazz music almost always gets played at the low end of the music range, classical at the high end even though the subjective perception is that the resulting volume is similar. This is just the way those tracks have been mixed.


Very rarely I'll play a movie at 0dB -- almost always this is a movie on cable TV, so it is likely the cable service has futzed with its audio.


I have my system set to a power on volume of -45dB which is low, but enough sound that I can tell the audio is active.


A Noise Level of 4dB is not at all unusual, and no the Noise Level setting doesn't do anything different for Movie vs. Music playback.


Now if you are using analog inputs then there are other things in the Anthem that also affect the volume level. And some players have their own internal volume adjustments which often cause more problems than they are worth.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14556287
> 
> 
> Yes. Might be an unexpected bonus of ARC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



That's possible. I'm thinking that some cables to/from the video board got reseated properly when the DSP board was swapped out.


If you've been in contact with Anthem about the problem you were seeing before, be sure to let them know that the ARC install seems to have fixed it.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14556713
> 
> 
> That's possible. I'm thinking that some cables to/from the video board got reseated properly when the DSP board was swapped out.
> 
> 
> If you've been in contact with Anthem about the problem you were seeing before, be sure to let them know that the ARC install seems to have fixed it.
> 
> --Bob



I have a similar situation in regards to the reference level. I have to set mine to +12 to obtain 75db. Does this have to do with mic distance or room volume or even the amount of sound treatment. My area is 17x35 with a 14' ceiling. It also has all corners treated and many 2x4x 4" panels placed in the room. Sounds great but was always curious why my ref level had to be increased so much. Also would speaker size or placement effect this also. I sit about 14' from the front speakers.


Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dick,

There are several possibilities. First your speakers may be unusually inefficient. Not producing much volume of output for a given voltage of input. This can be compounded if your power amp is not well matched for inefficient speakers. In the extreme, your power amp may be going into a protect mode where it lowers it's output.


Next you may have some sort of dynamics reduction control turned on in your amp.


Next you may have the amp set incorrectly for whether you are using RCA or XLR cables from the Anthem. That can produce a 6dB error.


Of course your amp may have a problem. But since things sound OK I think that's not likely.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765

The amp is a P5 and the speakers are the Salk HT3's-LF/RF/LS/RS/ and HTC center. Also 2 SVS PB12/2. I also checked the amp outputs and they are set for the RCa inputs I am using. Things don't sound ok,they sound wonderful. Just was curious of everything that could be causing this on my setup. The Salks do like a lot of power.Thanks for your reply.

Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm playing the two "audio-only" Blu-Ray discs I got from Amazon to try out the concept. This is using a PS3, an ARC'd D2, and a 5.1 speaker system.


The two discs I got -- both produced by "Surround Records" -- are the Vivaldi "Four Seasons", filled out with two "Concertos for Double Orchestra", and the Rachmaninov "Piano Concertos #2 & #3". These are high-bandwidth, 5.1 Naxos recordings originally produced for SACD. Surround Records has apparently processed them to add the additional rear channels and they are on disc as DTS-HD MA 7.1 24-bit/96KHz.


The Vivaldi contains 63 minutes of content and the Rachmaninov 74 minutes -- which would be nigh unto empty for a Blu-Ray disc with no video. However the PS3 reports that what it is actually seeing for these is an AVCHD recorded on a DVD-R!


And indeed there's something funky about the way they did it, because when you get to the end of the recording the PS3 gets confused. When you reach the end of the recording the disc does something like a Pause. The disc does not Stop on its own, nor can you Stop it using the remote. If you Eject it, it does in fact come out (thank God), but the PS3 still thinks it should be playing it because it doesn't go back to displaying the PS3 menu! And if you stick in another disc you get an error message from the PS3 saying you've inserted "The Wrong Disc".


So far, the only way I've found to get out of this state is to hold down the PS3 front panel power button long enough to force the PS3 to shut down. When powered up again, everything is back to normal.


=============================================


*** ETA: This problem at the end of the disc actually only happens with the Vivaldi as it turns out (I was typing this while playing the Rachmaninov). What the Rachmaninov does is restart from the beginning even though Repeat play is *NOT* turned on! But at least you can stop it at that point and get back to the XMB. ***


=============================================


---------------------------------------


That aside, the discs play just fine. They have no pop-up or Top menus and so they start playing without having to navigate any menus. Selecting Top menu during playback causes the disc to restart from the beginning. Selecting the pop-up menu does nothing.


They appear to respond normally to track forward/back operations.


They have just the one audio track, but apparently the liner notes say they WILL play the "core" DTS 5.1 track if your player or receiver can't handle the DTS-HD MA. There are, of course, no subtitles or angles.


The "video" is a black screen that the PS3 identifies as MPEG 2 at 909Kbs.


The audio is, as expected, DTS-HD MA 7.1. The bit rate on the Vivaldi varies between 10.5Mbps and 13.5Mbps. The Rachmaninov is not quite that high running from 9.5Mbps to around 12Mbps


Through the ARC'd D2 -- with the PS3 merging the rear channels back into the side channels to send 5.1 -- the audio sounds very good indeed!


This "Four Seasons" will not be one of my favorite recordings. The liner notes aptly report that it, "is given at houghtful performance." And just like that typo, it's a little bit off. But it SOUNDS wonderful.


The "Concertos for Double Orchestra" were something unexpected! They were recorded with the soloist between two orchestras -- one of which was put into the front channels and the other of which was put into the SURROUNDS!


Quite startling to say the least until you figure out what's going on! But my oh my it does show off the value of letting ARC do a full range correction on your surround speaker setup! For this recording you really do have to sit in the primary seating location (ARC mic #1) or the completely surrounding sound stage is just too distracting.


The Rachmaninov pieces were presented in the more traditional sound stage, thank God. I happen to like the Kissin performances of these better, which are not as traditional as these here by Scherbakov, but again the audio quality seems quite good indeed.


----------------------------------


So apparently there are still some kinks to get out of the "audio-only" Blu-Ray system here. In particular it is ridiculous for them to have issued these before verifying that a PS3 still works properly after reaching the end of the disc! I mean it's only the single most popular Blu-Ray player out there -- by far.


And I suspect the resort to AVCHD as the recording format is just a hack until the Blu-Ray consortium puts their official blessing on "true" audio-only Blu-Ray discs.


And as always, the CONTENT (in this case the performances) is fundamentally more important than the TECHNOLOGY of audio delivery and reproduction, but I think these two discs show there is a lot of potential for "audio-only" Blu-Ray as time goes on and more recordings come out.


And also, of course, it sounds very VERY good indeed through an ARC'd D2!

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/14557319
> 
> 
> I have a similar situation in regards to the reference level. I have to set mine to +12 to obtain 75db. Does this have to do with mic distance or room volume or even the amount of sound treatment. My area is 17x35 with a 14' ceiling. It also has all corners treated and many 2x4x 4" panels placed in the room. Sounds great but was always curious why my ref level had to be increased so much. Also would speaker size or placement effect this also. I sit about 14' from the front speakers.
> 
> 
> Dick



You have a big room, average rooms are in the volume of 2500-3000 sq.ft.. Yours is 8330 sq.ft. Your speakers are just 85dB efficiency. You are sitting 14 ft or 4.2meters from the speakers. Therefore with inverse square law, for a doubling of distance a 6 dB drop in SPL is realized.


At your listening position (not taking into consideration room gain) your speaker's efficiency is just around 72dB at 1 watt which is quite low. At 200 watts output from your amp will just add 23dBf. Adding the 2 values yield 95 dB. HT specs say that the max output is 105 dB. This explains why your D2 has to increase the noise level by 12dB. (mine adds 6.5dB)


IMHO, your speakers are too inneficient for the size of your room.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14559075
> 
> 
> You have a big room, average rooms are in the volume of 2500-3000 sq.ft.. Yours is 8330 sq.ft. Your speakers are just 85dB efficiency. You are sitting 14 ft or 4.2meters from the speakers. Therefore with inverse square law, for a doubling of distance a 6 dB drop in SPL is realized.
> 
> 
> At your listening position (not taking into consideration room gain) your speaker's efficiency is just around 72dB at 1 watt which is quite low. At 200 watts output from your amp will just add 23dBf. Adding the 2 values yield 95 dB. HT specs say that the max output is 105 dB. This explains why your D2 has to increase the noise level by 12dB. (mine adds 6.5dB)
> 
> 
> IMHO, your speakers are too inneficient for the size of your room.



Thank you for the explanation. I noticed in previous post most people were increasing only3 or 4 db. I am trying to somehow put a wall in the rear which would reduce the length by 15'. The problem is making it movable so I can open the room at times. I thought it may have mostly to do with the volume and distance. The way the room is designed it make it almost impossible to move the listening position forward.(combination great room and kitchen). Thanks again.

dick


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14558867
> 
> 
> I'm playing the two "audio-only" Blu-Ray discs I got from Amazon to try out the concept. This is using a PS3, an ARC'd D2, and a 5.1 speaker system.
> 
> 
> The two discs I got -- both produced by "Surround Records" -- are the Vivaldi "Four Seasons", filled out with two "Concertos for Double Orchestra", and the Rachmaninov "Piano Concertos #2 & #3". These are high-bandwidth, 5.1 Naxos recordings originally produced for SACD. Surround Records has apparently processed them to add the additional rear channels and they are on disc as DTS-HD MA 7.1 24-bit/96KHz.
> 
> 
> The Vivaldi contains 63 minutes of content and the Rachmaninov 74 minutes -- which would be nigh unto empty for a Blu-Ray disc with no video. However the PS3 reports that what it is actually seeing for these is an AVCHD recorded on a DVD-R!



They could very well be on DVD-R media. The BluRay format does not require a 25/50GB disc. You can record a BluRay video/audio onto anything you want, including a DVD-R. So I'd guess the PS3 is reporting it correctly.


Further, there's no such thing as audio-only BluRay, so he probably just recorded a 100% black video stream at a very low bitrate. With AVCHD (i.e. one of the many acceptable BluRay video formats), that would take up almost no space.


So it's a valid BluRay disc, with a 100% black video stream, recorded in AVCHD, on a DVD-R. Makes sense, and easy to do.


What was the audio stream? LPCM, DTS-HD/MA, TrueHD, something else?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14559399
> 
> 
> What was the audio stream? LPCM, DTS-HD/MA, TrueHD, something else?



DTS-HD MA 7.1 24-bit/96KHz audio. The black screen of video was MPEG2 at around 900Kbps.


It'll be interesting to see if the commercial audio discs recorded for Blu-Ray Profile 3.0 (audio-only) players are done the same way.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14559566
> 
> 
> DTS-HD MA 7.1 24-bit/96KHz audio. The black screen of video was MPEG2 at around 900Kbps.
> 
> 
> It'll be interesting to see if the commercial audio discs recorded for Blu-Ray Profile 3.0 (audio-only) players are done the same way.
> 
> --Bob



It was MPEG2 but the PS3 was reporting AVCHD? Where did it report MPEG2?


My understanding of Profile 3.0 is that it's just a spec for players - that they can basically ignore most of the video features. I don't think there's any change to the disc recording itself. In fact I think a regular BD movie would play it in, much like a old Profile 1.0 player. The 3.0 players have to support the BD menuing system, I think.


I'd bet a diet-coke that the only thing that will be different from a BD movie is that the media will be regular 8GB DVD-R media, like what you're already seeing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14559698
> 
> 
> It was MPEG2 but the PS3 was reporting AVCHD? Where did it report MPEG2?
> 
> 
> My understanding of Profile 3.0 is that it's just a spec for players - that they can basically ignore most of the video features. I don't think there's any change to the disc recording itself. In fact I think a regular BD movie would play it in, much like a old Profile 1.0 player. The 3.0 players have to support the BD menuing system, I think.
> 
> 
> I'd bet a diet-coke that the only thing that will be different from a BD movie is that the media will be regular 8GB DVD-R media, like what you're already seeing.



Both the audio and video were reported by the PS3's status info during playback. The AVCHD DVD-R identification was the way the PS3's "XMB" menu system reported the disc itself. A typical BD movie disc will be shown as a BD-ROM.


I tend to agree that the music industry would love to sell DVD-R sized audio content for the prices the movie industry is getting for Blu-Ray movies.


We'll just have to see how it rolls out over the next year or so.


It will be interesting to see if more discs like the ones out now start showing up over the next few months.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I would say the P5 for whatever reason you chose it was fortunate selection. It is not the most powerful amp but it is above average and clean doing it.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/14559263
> 
> 
> Thank you for the explanation. I noticed in previous post most people were increasing only3 or 4 db. I am trying to somehow put a wall in the rear which would reduce the length by 15'. The problem is making it movable so I can open the room at times. I thought it may have mostly to do with the volume and distance. The way the room is designed it make it almost impossible to move the listening position forward.(combination great room and kitchen). Thanks again.
> 
> dick


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/14565297
> 
> 
> I would say the P5 for whatever reason you chose it was fortunate selection. It is not the most powerful amp but it is above average and clean doing it.



How much if any of an improvement would 2 mono blocks for the front L/R do.


Dick


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Disclaimer, I own and am happy with my P5.


The P5 is a mono block design. Each of the 5 channels is totally separate after the power chord(s).


It is rated at 325w at 8 ohms, 500w at 4 ohms, and 675w at 1 ohm. I have never heard anything that I thought came from the amp in the way coloring, crosstalk, or hiss. The thing is neutral in my opinion.


It does run 380w of power consumption at idle, think heater running all the time. The only down side other than 130 lb weight.


There are mono blocks that put out more. There are less expensive amps with these statistics I suspect. I like my P5.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/14565394
> 
> 
> How much if any of an improvement would 2 mono blocks for the front L/R do.
> 
> 
> Dick


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/14568605
> 
> 
> Disclaimer, I own and am happy with my P5.
> 
> 
> The P5 is a mono block design. Each of the 5 channels is totally separate after the power chord(s).
> 
> 
> It is rated at 325w at 8 ohms, 500w at 4 ohms, and 675w at 1 ohm. I have never heard anything that I thought came from the amp in the way coloring, crosstalk, or hiss. The thing is neutral in my opinion.
> 
> 
> It does run 380w of power consumption at idle, think heater running all the time. The only down side other than 130 lb weight.
> 
> 
> There are mono blocks that put out more. There are less expensive amps with these statistics I suspect. I like my P5.



The one thing that P5 has that I've never seen anywhere else is that it's "stable down to a short circuit". Most amps will be stable down to 3 or 2 ohms, but the P5 is unique (or nearly unique) in that respect.


It's a very clean amp, and allows you to focus just on the pre-pro for your sound. It can easily drive speakers with very low resistance curves at very high (and low) volumes. I love mine, even though it's hot and a power hog.


Now if Anthem would just come out with a D2R2 or D3 sometime soon, we'd all be happy.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/14568605
> 
> 
> Disclaimer, I own and am happy with my P5.
> 
> 
> The P5 is a mono block design. Each of the 5 channels is totally separate after the power chord(s).
> 
> 
> It is rated at 325w at 8 ohms, 500w at 4 ohms, and 675w at 1 ohm. I have never heard anything that I thought came from the amp in the way coloring, crosstalk, or hiss. The thing is neutral in my opinion.
> 
> 
> It does run 380w of power consumption at idle, think heater running all the time. The only down side other than 130 lb weight.
> 
> 
> There are mono blocks that put out more. There are less expensive amps with these statistics I suspect. I like my P5.



I seen that on your profile afterwords,I originally purchased it with my D2 and Studio 100's at the same time. Then later upgraded to the Salk's.


Dick


----------



## video_bit_bucket

One reason I went with the P5 was so no matter what speaker I might upgrade to in the future the amp I had would be able to drive it. Looks like you executed that upgrade plan. 




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/14569707
> 
> 
> I seen that on your profile afterwords,I originally purchased it with my D2 and Studio 100's at the same time. Then later upgraded to the Salk's.
> 
> 
> Dick


----------



## uppacreek

hi guys....been a while....I'd just like to know if there's been any progress with Anthem providing a 1080p/24 output from a 480i/60 source (via my Oppo 980H for example)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/14573776
> 
> 
> hi guys....been a while....I'd just like to know if there's been any progress with Anthem providing a 1080p/24 output from a 480i/60 source (via my Oppo 980H for example)?



Nope, not yet.


I asked Nick from Anthem about it back in July and he said it was on the list but not at the top of the list. I put in my vote that they give it higher priority.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14569542
> 
> 
> Now if Anthem would just come out with a D2R2 or D3 sometime soon, we'd all be happy.



HA! Or perhaps an R2D2, with a C3PO amp as a 2 item bundle! Sorry, couldn't resist! By the way, I own an A5 for my Zone 1 and an A2 for Zone 2 and they are no slouches either.


-Brian


----------



## jayray

+1 on that. The A2 and A5 are great amps. don't even sweat when pushed.









John


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/14570224
> 
> 
> One reason I went with the P5 was so no matter what speaker I might upgrade to in the future the amp I had would be able to drive it. Looks like you executed that upgrade plan.



I have the P5 and P2. I had thee deicated 20amp circuits run to the two devices. I must say that I have never experienced any sensations that they are even on (hum, crosstalk or noise of any kind). I also have never experienced any heat even when running reference levels for an extended period of time. they run perfectly cold. I cannot say the same for my D2 which runs extremely hot. I am extremely tempted to exchange it for a new D2 which I believe is known to run significantly cooler. I know that within hours of that decision that Anthem will announce the new and improved D3 and that every one here will thank me for my charitable act!


Peter


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/14574548
> 
> 
> I have the P5 and P2. I had thee deicated 20amp circuits run to the two devices. I must say that I have never experienced any sensations that they are even on (hum, crosstalk or noise of any kind). I also have never experienced any heat even when running reference levels for an extended period of time. they run perfectly cold. I cannot say the same for my D2 which runs extremely hot. I am extremely tempted to exchange it for a new D2 which I believe is known to run significantly cooler. I know that within hours of that decision that Anthem will announce the new and improved D3 and that every one here will thank me for my charitable act!
> 
> 
> Peter



Peter,


In my best Bill Clinton..."...I feel your pain..." Seriously though, I have one of the first D2's ever sent to the U.S., and it runs extremely hot indeed. I've often heard of the later red-colored Gennum board or something that runs much much cooler I guess, or other design changes that were made. I wish there was a definitive way to know if we are missing anything by having the "older" D2's as compared to our newer cohorts here.


Thoughts Bob/anyone?


Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/14574829
> 
> 
> Peter,
> 
> 
> In my best Bill Clinton..."...I feel your pain..." Seriously though, I have one of the first D2's ever sent to the U.S., and it runs extremely hot indeed. I've often heard of the later red-colored Gennum board or something that runs much much cooler I guess, or other design changes that were made. I wish there was a definitive way to know if we are missing anything by having the "older" D2's as compared to our newer cohorts here.
> 
> 
> Thoughts Bob/anyone?
> 
> 
> Brian



The thermal difference is due to a change in the power supply in the D2 that was put in as a rolling change in manufacturing early last year. There is no functional difference with the "red" video board. It was just a change forced on Anthem when Gennum made a change in the video chip (in features of the video chip that don't get used by the D2).


The older, hotter-running power supply is also nothing to worry about. The thermal design of the D2 takes care of that just fine so long as you follow the ventilation spacing specs in the manual. That power supply is designed to run just the way it is running.


There is no need for "red board envy".









--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14574950
> 
> 
> The thermal difference is due to a change in the power supply in the D2 that was put in as a rolling change in manufacturing early last year. There is no functional difference with the "red" video board. It was just a change forced on Anthem when Gennum made a change in the video chip (in features of the video chip that don't get used by the D2).
> 
> 
> The older, hotter-running power supply is also nothing to worry about. The thermal design of the D2 takes care of that just fine so long as you follow the ventilation spacing specs in the manual. That power supply is designed to run just the way it is running.
> 
> 
> There is no need for "red board envy".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the info Bob...I knew you'd have a good take on it. I will rest my worries and will sleep well tonight...at least, after a couple more BluRay viewings thru my well-aged D2 


Cheers to you kind sir 

-Brian


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14574950
> 
> 
> There is no need for "red board envy".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Although my old green board had a bunch of odd firmware issues (e.g., crashing with 1.33) that have not been present with the red board (installed after the green board died).


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14554628
> 
> 
> Since ARC was installed, I have not had any of those weird diagonal red and blue lines running through my setup menu. Still keeping my fingers crossed.
> 
> John



Here is Nick's response to the above issue.


"Noise lines in the setup menu are probably some kind of interference or a ground loop. The setup menu character generator is analog (S-Video) and prone to any noise that can go with analog video. Some faint background noise is usually present here although diagonal lines are not normal. Since they come and go (coincidence?) I'm more inclined to bet that it has to do with the installation than the internals, although if the problem gets worse I'd change my guess. In that case I'd say it has something to to with caps in the S-Video path that we once had problems with... I thought the bad ones filtered out by now but you never know."


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm getting a weird error when I try to access any of the Anthem web site pages right now. Is statement.anthemav.com live for anyone else at the moment?

--Bob


----------



## Don O’Brien

Firefox and IE7 both cannot connect-page load error


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yeah, I can't reach paradigm.com either so it appears there is some sort of internet backbone error that's taken them off line. The names resolve but you can't ping them or complete a traceroute.


I can reach other sites in the Toronto area so I don't think it's geographic. Probably Paradigm's ISP had a stroke and it took out the Anthem sites as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Anthem web pages are back up again -- no changes. Must have just been temporary amnesia.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Has anyone tried an iMac with Leopard, the Keyspan adapter, and Vista with ARC using VMware Fusion instead of BootCamp?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/14573776
> 
> 
> hi guys....been a while....I'd just like to know if there's been any progress with Anthem providing a 1080p/24 output from a 480i/60 source (via my Oppo 980H for example)?



I don't understand why peoples need this. With the D2 you are allowed to create to output config, one at 1080p24 and one at 1080p60. On my Blu-Ray input I used the 1080p24 and on the Oppo 980H and Cable Box (SCI8300HD) I use 1080p60. This is simple and stable.


----------



## Tolstoi

CEDIA start in less than two days anxious to see if Anthem will announce anything for the D2. I dough they will announce anything at Cedia I see more an announcement at CES. Hopefully I am wrong and they will announce something this week. Will See!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14579142
> 
> 
> I don't understand why peoples need this. With the D2 you are allowed to create to output config, one at 1080p24 and one at 1080p60. On my Blu-Ray input I used the 1080p24 and on the Oppo 980H and Cable Box (SCI8300HD) I use 1080p60. This is simple and stable.



480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion is for people trying to set up "cadence judder free" viewing (on a display that supports that) when watching film-based content from standard DVDs or from SDTV or HDTV broadcasts.


Blu-Ray players already output 1080p/24 for film-based content so you don't need anything extra in the Anthem for that.


But when viewing film-based content on SDTV, HDTV, or SD DVD, you will get a video stream that has been raised to video frame rate via the telecine process and there's no way to prevent that. So to eliminate cadence judder you need the video processor to detect and eliminate the repeated fields that make up that cadence.


The Anthems do not do that correctly. Back around V1.11 (as I recall) they made a stab at it that got pretty close for 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion. But it was still not right. 480i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion was not even close.


What you will get if you tell the Anthem to do this is stuttering in the video as the Anthem apparently loses track of the actual input cadence and doesn't recover. The stuttering is WAY worse than the cadence judder you were trying to eliminate.


The workaround, of course, is to use 1080p/60 output instead of 1080p/24 when viewing SD DVDs, SDTV, or HDTV, even when the content is film-based. You will get cadence judder of course, but as usual most people will "not see" this.


The ability to do this sort of conversion correctly is really the one significant feature which the external video processors offer and the Anthem doesn't offer. [Some folks with CIH projection setups also regret the lack of a "horizontal squeeze" scaling function in the Anthem, but there's a good reason not to do that -- loss of horizontal resolution.]

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14579159
> 
> 
> CEDIA start in less than two days anxious to see if Anthem will announce anything for the D2. I dough they will announce anything at Cedia I see more an announcement at CES. Hopefully I am wrong and they will announce something this week. Will See!



My guess would be that if Anthem announces anything at CEDIA it will be in private and under non-disclosure. Then we can see how soon the leaks start to appear.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/14577981
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried an iMac with Leopard, the Keyspan adapter, and Vista with ARC using VMware Fusion instead of BootCamp?



I'm hoping someone else chimes in here for you. So far, all I can offer is that I've only tried BootCamp (which works, at least with XP), and I can't recall any posts here from folks who've tried VMware Fusion.


If you try VMware Fusion, please do report how it goes.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

When I first tried my new 1080p/24 pj, with a non 24Hz input I couldn't figure out what the stuttering was from. Now I know. Even with my PS3, when I stop a movie, I get stutter slightly when moving around the menus when set to output 24 Hz.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14580983
> 
> 
> When I first tried my new 1080p/24 pj, with a non 24Hz input I couldn't figure out what the stuttering was from. Now I know. Even with my PS3, when I stop a movie, I get stutter slightly when moving around the menus when set to output 24 Hz.
> 
> John



The reason you get stuttering when viewing those menus is that they are coming in at 1080p/60 and they are *NOT* film based.


When the original content is video-based (30fps original frame rate) and not film-based (24fps original frame rate) it *NEVER* makes sense to try to reduce it to /24 output.


You can raise 24fps to 30fps (by repeating interlaced half-frames, "fields", in the correct cadence), and that looks good. That's the telecine process that has been used since the dawn of TV. You can then retrieve the original 24fps from that by detecting and removing the repeated fields, and THAT looks good -- when it is done correctly. That's the type of video processing we want the Anthem to do for judder-free display setups.


But if your 30fps input stream was not 24fps to begin with, trying to reduce it down to 24fps is bound to look bad. There's no good way to decide what to discard from the "real" 30fps content to reduce it to a mere 24fps.


So even if Anthem fixed the thing I was talking about, you *STILL* don't want to try converting any video-based content to 1080p/24.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I actually figured this out as my HD DVD player sometimes reverts to 60Hz and I get the judder. Now I check before I play anything that it is set to

24Hz. When the menu juddered, I knew it must have a 60 Hz output. Having had a 60Hz pj. that actually had wavey pattern when panning horizontally, I love the smoothness of 24p. Seems very lifelike









John


----------



## AnthemAVM

1st Stop at CEDIA this year.


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14583392
> 
> 
> 1st Stop at CEDIA this year.



Excellent! Keep us posted with more photos and information!


Kal


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14583392
> 
> 
> 1st Stop at CEDIA this year.



Lucky guy!!!! Keep us posted.


----------



## barhoram

Spending some time re-calibrating my video as I've have some odd picture things going on with my new projector. Question feeding my D2 from a Pioneer 59AVI. In the 59AVI thread, there are instructions on correcting a bug when using 480i (RGB encoding) so it passed WTW and BTB. Does this hold for 480i YCbCr as well?? or should I set it to the otherwise recommended PureCinema Auto2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14588608
> 
> 
> Spending some time re-calibrating my video as I've have some odd picture things going on with my new projector. Question feeding my D2 from a Pioneer 59AVI. In the 59AVI thread, there are instructions on correcting a bug when using 480i (RGB encoding) so it passed WTW and BTB. Does this hold for 480i YCbCr as well?? or should I set it to the otherwise recommended PureCinema Auto2?



As I recall, the 59avi (one of the first HDMI V1.0 devices) doesn't give you the option of HDMI 480i YCbCr output. You have to use HDMI RGB.


PureCinema has nothing to do with RGB vs. YCbCr. It has to do with how the player detects motion and chooses the best algorithm for de-interlacing the 480i coming off the disc to 480p (or higher). If you are using 480i output (as you should be) it will have no effect.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

so where is the talk about D2 v2 with advanced decoding.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14589734
> 
> 
> so where is the talk about D2 v2 with advanced decoding.



That is YOUR JOB to come back from CEDIA with the UPDATES for us.


----------



## AnthemAVM

add the following from version one plus


4 additional HDMI in 1 more out


new VXP9452 video processor


dual core audio DSP engines offers a total of 800 mips to decode al hd audio standards


supports 7.1


upgrade is 2K for current D2 owwners.


thought it would be out in about 60 days


----------



## barhoram

Bob,


Thanks for the reply. I'm pretty certain that it can...to quote the thread "would seem the HDMI Color Enhanced -vs- Standard changes between the RGB and YCbCr respectively, but ONLY if your display can be forced to accept only YCbCr via HDMI"


Can I force the D2 to accept RGB?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14588751
> 
> 
> As I recall, the 59avi (one of the first HDMI V1.0 devices) doesn't give you the option of HDMI 480i YCbCr output. You have to use HDMI RGB.
> 
> 
> PureCinema has nothing to do with RGB vs. YCbCr. It has to do with how the player detects motion and chooses the best algorithm for de-interlacing the 480i coming off the disc to 480p (or higher). If you are using 480i output (as you should be) it will have no effect.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14589926
> 
> 
> add the following from version one plus
> 
> 
> 4 additional HDMI in 1 more out
> 
> 
> new VXP9452 video processor
> 
> 
> dual core audio DSP engines offers a total of 800 mips to decode al hd audio standards
> 
> 
> supports 7.1
> 
> 
> upgrade is 2K for current D2 owwners.
> 
> 
> thought it would be out in about 60 days



Are you reporting that Anthem has publicly announced this?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

got the word from Nick today that the new D2 V2 and AVM50 V2 are official.

Will have upgrades if need is there, prices around the $2500 for AVM 50. Since we now get close to 7.1 with PLIIx, decoding in our players, seems this is aimed at the market that seems to demand new,new,new not required, required, required. I'll stick with what I have.









John


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14589869
> 
> 
> That is YOUR JOB to come back from CEDIA with the UPDATES for us.



Oh he's doing even more: calls me in the middle of the day, at work, so he can rub in my face all the new features his D2 will be getting. _"Where's your Lexicon now buddy!?!"_ Anyway, he said the MSRP is $7500, upgrade is between $2,000 and $2,500.


Sanjay


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/14590550
> 
> 
> Oh he's doing even more: calls me in the middle of the day, at work, so he can rub in my face all the new features his D2 will be getting. _"Where's your Lexicon now buddy!?!"_ Anyway, he said the MSRP is $7500, upgrade is between $2,000 and $2,500.
> 
> 
> Sanjay



I thought Mike was pulling our leg and making things up










But I see from JayRay's previous post - he is not.




































--- For Anthem


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/14590550
> 
> 
> Oh he's doing even more: calls me in the middle of the day, at work, so he can rub in my face all the new features his D2 will be getting. _"Where's your Lexicon now buddy!?!"_ Anyway, he said the MSRP is $7500, upgrade is between $2,000 and $2,500.
> 
> 
> Sanjay



The new product price is not bad at all considering it likely includes ARC as well.


The upgrade is in line with what I would expect given that the video board is the single most expensive replaceable piece in the D2 and the DSP also has to be changed.


I wonder whether they are going to stick with 5.1 analog input?


I also wonder whether the decoders for TrueHD and DTS-HD MA will be included at first ship?


By the way, for anybody wondering, I still think it is better to send HDMI LPCM to these beasties.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14591192
> 
> 
> By the way, for anybody wondering, I still think it is better to send HDMI LPCM to these beasties.
> 
> --Bob



I AGREE


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here's the Sigma Designs press release from when this new video processor chip was announced last April. Note that Sigma Designs acquired the Gennum video processor business in February, 2008:

http://www.reuters.com/article/press...008+BW20080414 



> Quote:
> Sigma Announces New Studio-Quality Video Imaging Solution for Professional Applications
> 
> Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:00am EDT
> 
> 
> Latest Extension of VXP Technology Offers a Dual Channel Solution
> 
> With 12-Bit Processing for Applications Demanding the Highest Quality
> 
> 
> LAS VEGAS--(Business Wire)--
> 
> Sigma Designs (Nasdaq:SIGM), a leader in digital media processing
> 
> system-on-chip (SoC) solutions for consumer electronics, today
> 
> announced the new VXP9452 processor, an advanced video imaging
> 
> processor that offers two fully separable video processing channels
> 
> each featuring full 12-bit input and output support. As the latest
> 
> extension of the world renowned VXP(R) product line which is used by
> 
> the leading digital broadcast TV, cinema studios and home theatre
> 
> manufacturers, the VXP9452 is intended for use in audio/video
> 
> receivers, video/image processors, cinema/home theatre projectors and
> 
> professional monitors. Announced at this year's 2008 NAB Show in Las
> 
> Vegas, the VXP9452 further extends Sigma's leadership in media
> 
> processing technology for advanced high definition, studio quality
> 
> consumer electronics.
> 
> 
> "The VXP9452 enables Sigma to expand into the professional image
> 
> processing market by offering broadcast studio quality in an IC for
> 
> very precise, high-end applications," said David Lynch, VP & GM Image
> 
> Processing Products, Sigma Designs. "Since VXP technology represents
> 
> the premier video processing solution for professional applications,
> 
> it will eventually create a prestigious extension of our industry
> 
> leading consumer SoCs as well."
> 
> 
> The VXP9452 is the first processor to introduce 12-bit processing
> 
> power, which delivers an extremely crisp picture to professional
> 
> video/image processors and converters, audio/video receivers,
> 
> professional monitors, and multi-viewer systems. The product comes
> 
> with two completely separable premium video channels with all VXP
> 
> processing enhancements available on both channels simultaneously. The
> 
> channels can be combined via a simple Field-Programmable Gate Array
> 
> (FPGA) to provide an excellent 4k x 2k image.
> 
> 
> The highly precise 12-bit processing at both the input and output
> 
> provides peerless 12-bit images and delivers advanced picture
> 
> enhancement capabilities for noise reduction, compression artifact
> 
> removal, adaptive contrast and detail enhancement - all the features
> 
> cinema and broadcast TV studios and consumer electronics manufacturers
> 
> are used to achieving with VXP technology. Further product
> 
> enhancements include an 8-axis selective color correction to smoothly
> 
> compensate for display color imperfections and improved cadence
> 
> detection to support non-standard formats (e.g. 6:4, 5:5, 8:7,
> 
> 2:2:2:4, 2:3:3:2, 3:2:3:2:2) as well as both interlace and progressive
> 
> film.
> 
> 
> Additional features of the VXP9452 include motion and edge
> 
> adaptive de-interlacing, robust film cadence detection providing fast
> 
> 3:2/2:2 lock time, adaptive 2D and 3D noise reduction, adaptive block
> 
> and mosquito compression artifact reduction, multi-tap 2D scaling
> 
> engine, adaptive detail enhancement with over/under shoot control, and
> 
> adaptive contrast enhancement. In addition, the VXP9452 comes with a
> 
> wide range of multi-standard support for all digital television (DTV)
> 
> and PC graphics formats.
> 
> 
> VXP technology uses the most advanced image processing algorithms
> 
> available to deliver crisp, natural looking, artifact-free images on
> 
> displays of virtually any size. Fully compatible with previous VXP
> 
> processors, the VXP9452 uses the VIPER VXP Device Configuration Tool
> 
> to produce product implementations quickly and easily.
> 
> 
> Editors Note: Since Sigma's acquisition of Gennum's VXP(R) Image
> 
> Processing business in February 2008, the VXP9452 marks the first
> 
> product announcement of Sigma's VXP video imaging processing series of
> 
> products.
> 
> 
> VXP technology delivers unprecedented image quality
> 
> 
> Developed from its broadcast heritage, VXP technology contains
> 
> robust algorithms that ensure outstanding image quality. The high
> 
> precision color processing means more than one billion colors are used
> 
> for eye-catching, natural images and uncompromised video quality. At
> 
> the heart of the technology is motion adaptive de-interlacing with
> 
> dynamic directional interpolation, which removes jagged edges that can
> 
> result from motion in HD and SD interlaced formats. Enabling the up or
> 
> down scale of SD and HD formats, the programmable scaling engine
> 
> ensures the proper enlargement and reduction of the images without any
> 
> loss of quality. Coupled with advanced image enhancement algorithms in
> 
> a low-power, low-latency architecture, Sigma's solutions comprise the
> 
> most advanced single-chip image processors on the market today.
> 
> 
> About Sigma Designs, Inc.
> 
> 
> Sigma Designs is a leading fabless provider of highly integrated
> 
> system-on-chip, or SoC, solutions that are used to deliver multimedia
> 
> entertainment throughout the home. Sigma's SoC solutions combine its
> 
> semiconductors and software and are a critical component of multiple
> 
> high-growth, consumer applications that process digital video and
> 
> audio content, including internet protocol TV, or IPTV, high
> 
> definition DVD players, high definition TVs, or HDTVs, and portable
> 
> media players. Headquartered in Milpitas, Calif., Sigma Designs also
> 
> has sales representatives in the United States, Belgium, China, Japan
> 
> and Taiwan and sells its products through a third-party distributor in
> 
> Korea. For more information, please visit Sigma Designs' web site at
> www.sigmadesigns.com .
> 
> 
> Sigma Designs, Inc.
> 
> Ken Lowe, 408-957-9850
> [email protected]
> 
> or
> 
> Atomic PR
> 
> Allyson Stinchfield, 415-402-0230
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> Copyright Business Wire 2008



============================================


ETA: Here's the link to the product info page for this processor on the Sigma Designs web site:

http://www.sigmadesigns.com/public/P...2/VXP9452.html 


ETA 2: Obviously this new processor is capable of handling "Deep Color" if the HDMI chips on the new board are HDMI V1.3 (which must be the case since the new unit will allow bitstreaming), but I see no specific mention of support for xv.YCC color space.


--Bob


----------



## yacht422

walt here.

soma of us have used sound attenuation materials and techniques from recognized companies.

(rives: acoustic sciences, et.al.)

looking for feedback on the results.

i recognize this is not the venue for a full discussion.

but, a short line on happiness, or lack of, for YOUR company is appreciated.

thx

walt


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14591192
> 
> 
> By the way, for anybody wondering, I still think it is better to send HDMI LPCM to these beasties.
> 
> --Bob



Bob... I haven't been following this thread lately, but just curious as to the why? Do you also think it better to decode DD and DTS in a DVD player, and if not, why the "double" standard..


For the multitude of receivers I've gone through over the last 12 months, I've been happier to do the decoding in the receiver if not just for the ability to have OSD access to information about the track... in my listening tests, I've found no sonic differences in regards to DD+ or TrueHD...


Just curious...


And now that I'm back in my old house (the one I tried to sell which forced my D2 sale) the timing couldn't be better.. D2 V2 might have to be my next processor..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here is the official press release from Anthem for the "D2 v.2" -- hot off the press:

http://www.castercomm.com/prView.cfm?cid=111&id=208 



> Quote:
> Anthem, part of Paradigm Electronics Inc, is a leading manufacturer of award-winning high-end electronics for music, home theater, and distributed sound systems, sold internationally under the brand names Anthem® and Anthem® Statement. Anthem products are used at all levels of music reproduction and allow you to virtually "be there" every time you listen to a favorite piece of recorded music or experience the excitement of surround-sound home theater. Headquarters are Mississauga, Canada. Anthem® and Anthem® Statement are trademarks of Anthem/Sonic Frontiers International.
> 
> 
> 
> UPGRADES TO ANTHEM'S STATEMENT D2 MAKE IT A PROCESSING AND PEFORMANCE SUPERPOWER
> 
> 
> More connections, better A/V processing and support for the latest audio formats make v.2 of the acclaimed D2 preamplifier/processor an A/V-phile's dream.
> 
> 
> Denver, CO - CEDIA EXPO 2008 - September 4-7, 2008 - Booth #938 - Anthem, a leading manufacturer of high-end electronics for music, home theater and distributed audio systems, announces the availability of version two of its award-winning Statement D2 audio/video processor. This next-generation model enhances the unparalleled performance features found in its first iteration with serious upgrades.
> 
> 
> As a pioneer in the troubleshooting and integration of HDMITM, Anthem knows better than most how to utilize these connections to their fullest. V.2 of the Statement D2 is equipped with four additional HDMI inputs (for a total of eight) as well as one additional HDMI output (for a total of two), resulting in unprecedented connection capabilities for a preamplifier/processor. All inputs and outputs are HDMI 1.3c and offer Deep-Color support (36-bit) and high-definition audio streaming.
> 
> 
> More connections are useful, of course, but performance is king. With that in mind, the Anthem Statement D2 v.2 delivers outstanding video enhancement courtesy of the updated VXP® digital image processor. This "latest-generation" processor offers two complete, independent 12-bit channels of professional-grade fully-adaptive deinterlacing. In addition, it includes adaptive 3D noise reduction, mosquito noise reduction, block artifact reduction, adaptive detail enhancement featuring sharpness and texture enhancement with overshoot control, and adaptive contrast enhancement. Its powerful, multi-layered graphics engine allows for sophisticated on-screen display generation that is ideal for electronic program guides (EPG) and set-up menus.
> 
> 
> Audio performance on the Statement D2 v.2 is has been ramped up to meet the demands of emerging HD audio standards. Two dual-core digital signal processor (DSP) engines offer 800 MIPS (million instructions per second) of processing power to allow eight-channel decoding of new HD audio standards like Dolby® Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HDTM High-Resolution Audio and DTS-HDTM Master Audio. The Anthem Statement D2 v.2 also supports DVD audio in 7.1 format up to 192 kHz.
> 
> 
> Anthem's new Room Correction System (ARC-1TM) will also be a standard feature on all Statement D2 v.2 preamplifier/processors. While equalizing frequency response in a room to achieve some generic (i.e. "flat") response is a common approach to solving the problem, it will result in an unnatural spectral balance since it does not take into account the human hearing system. Anthem's approach is a true audiophile solution: Anthem Room Correction differs from other systems in that it uses proprietary processing to compute each speaker's in-room frequency response and then computes a target frequency response for each to yield the optimal sound.
> 
> 
> Estimated U.S. FMV for the Anthem Statement D2 v.2 is $7999. For more information, please visit www.anthemav.com .
> 
> 
> *Key features of VXPTM technology include: • Superior image quality using per-pixel processing. • Very robust film mode detection. • TruMotionHDTM Adaptive De-Interlacing to ensure optimal image sharpness and picture resolution when converting 480i, 576i and 1080i inputs to progressive scan. • FineEdgeTM Dynamic Directional Interpolation to eliminate jaggy artifacts (i.e. temporal distortion) found in traditional de-interlacing algorithms. • FidelityEngineTM Image Enhancements to remove unwanted noise and improve detail. • RealityExpansionTM True 10-Bit Image Processing for eye-catching natural imagery.



=========================


ETA: Note that the HDMI is V1.3c (8 in, 2 out). I still see no mention of xv.YCC color space support.


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Beauty shot for the Anthem Statement D2 v.2. Note the logos:











============================


ETA: The Back Panel shot they have up on their PR site is still the original D2 back panel at the moment.


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem also has a press release on ARC for the AVM-40 and AVM-50 (dated 9/1) on their PR agency site, but it doesn't appear to include any new information beyond what we've already discussed here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14591489
> 
> 
> Bob... I haven't been following this thread lately, but just curious as to the why? Do you also think it better to decode DD and DTS in a DVD player, and if not, why the "double" standard..



The Blu-Ray format is designed for decoding to happen in the player, and for studios to author discs that take advantage of the additional features that enables (not only audio, but video and interactivity).


I believe bitstreaming for Blu-Ray audio is a passing fad. This should all become clear by Christmas 2010 as things settle down and studios get more aggressive with what they put on the discs to better compete against downloadable content.


This is not to say that decoders will vanish from receivers, nor that analog connections will disappear. Rather it will just become accepted that the "normal" way to do it will be HDMI LPCM after decoding in the player.


-------------------------------------


The difference of course is that back when SD-DVD stuff solidified there was no way to get high quality DIGITAL audio to the receiver if the player did the decoding. And of course it was silly to pay for high quality analog BOTH in the player and in the receiver. So decoding, quite naturally, moved into the receivers. It's too late to change the SD-DVD world but the Blu-Ray world is very different.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14591513
> 
> 
> Here is the official press release from Anthem for the "D2 v.2" -- hot off the press:
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob.. thanks for the link.... it's going to be an awesome piece... I can't wait to see the back with 10 HDMI ports










Now you gotta be straight with me... when you get your upgraded unit back from Anthem, you're going to be bitstreaming aren't you.










On another note, I am sure you will get some that will be critical that they chose to not add any of the dynamics/leveling techs... those same critics are those clamoring for pure, non touched, masters just so they can put them through dynamics processing..


The only thing I've come to love from the bevy of products I've had in my system is HD Radio... I can live with out the satellite radio, internet radio and streaming, but I do like the new HD Radio..


I am hopeful I can once again be prancing around here alongside you other fine members... maybe even as the starter of the new "Owners" thread..







(for you Hank).


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14591594
> 
> 
> The Blu-Ray format is designed for decoding to happen in the player, and for studios to author discs that take advantage of the additional features that enables (not only audio, but video and interactivity).
> 
> 
> I believe bitstreaming for Blu-Ray audio is a passing fad. This should all become clear by Christmas 2010 as things settle down and studios get more aggressive with what they put on the discs to better compete against downloadable content.
> 
> 
> This is not to say that decoders will vanish from receivers, nor that analog connections will disappear. Rather it will just become accepted that the "normal" way to do it will be HDMI LPCM after decoding in the player.



Darn that advanced authoring.... I'm sure that some enterprising marketing exec will force the engineers to come up with a dual DSP engine BR player that will be able to decode HBR, mix it with secondary streams, and do a real time re-encode back into lossless.... it will be twice as good as the original, right?










Thanks for the, as always, well written reply... now when you going to come down and visit us in LaLa land?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14591489
> 
> 
> Bob... I haven't been following this thread lately, but just curious as to the why? Do you also think it better to decode DD and DTS in a DVD player, and if not, why the "double" standard..
> 
> 
> For the multitude of receivers I've gone through over the last 12 months, I've been happier to do the decoding in the receiver if not just for the ability to have OSD access to information about the track... in my listening tests, I've found no sonic differences in regards to DD+ or TrueHD...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14591594
> 
> 
> The Blu-Ray format is designed for decoding to happen in the player, and for studios to author discs that take advantage of the additional features that enables (not only audio, but video and interactivity).
> 
> 
> I believe bitstreaming for Blu-Ray audio is a passing fad. This should all become clear by Christmas 2010 as things settle down and studios get more aggressive with what they put on the discs to better compete against downloadable content.
> 
> 
> This is not to say that decoders will vanish from receivers, nor that analog connections will disappear. Rather it will just become accepted that the "normal" way to do it will be HDMI LPCM after decoding in the player.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The difference of course is that back when SD-DVD stuff solidified there was no way to get high quality DIGITAL audio to the receiver if the player did the decoding. And of course it was silly to pay for high quality analog BOTH in the player and in the receiver. So decoding, quite naturally, moved into the receivers. It's too late to change the SD-DVD world but the Blu-Ray world is very different.
> 
> --Bob



My memory must be failing me, because I thought that you (Marc) were always one who said that having the player doing the decoding was the way to go, and part of the reason was basically that this was required due to the advanced authoring.


But now you are questioning that?


I'm just trying to understand what the issue is here, or if I am missing something? Are you implying that there are sonic improvements to be had by decoding in the processor instead of the player?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/14591749
> 
> 
> My memory must be failing me, because I thought that you (Marc) were always one who said that having the player doing the decoding was the way to go, and part of the reason was basically that this was required due to the advanced authoring.
> 
> 
> But now you are questioning that?
> 
> 
> I'm just trying to understand what the issue is here, or if I am missing something? Are you implying that there are sonic improvements to be had by decoding in the processor instead of the player?



I still share that opinion... I was just wondering what Bob's position was on it, that's all.. I share his opinion (i.e. the whole HDMI 1.3 thing) and hadn't chatted with anyone about it in a while.... I read more into his post than I should have.


The prevailing opinion spring-summer 2007 from all parties concerned behind the scenes was that it was all going to happen in player, as designed... as sales of the newer processors and receivers took off, those talking points faded away.. which made people feel the need to have the latest and greatest.. which they've done, and are doing, in droves...


Now that Sony, Pioneer, Yamaha, Denon, etc have sold receivers that can do internal decoding (and have either held off development on, or priced said models, BR players that can decode all formats, at a premium) they can revamp their line ups again over the next eighteen months to sell players to those new HBR decoding receiver owners who wonder why their new BD-Live enabled "High School Musical 3" disc with chatty Cathy over the internet interactivity doesn't work for their 8 year old daughters, or that they're only hearing the movie, etc..... should be fun.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14591966
> 
> 
> I still share that opinion... I was just wondering what Bob's position was on it, that's all.. I share his opinion (i.e. the whole HDMI 1.3 thing) and hadn't chatted with anyone about it in a while.... I read more into his post than I should have.
> 
> 
> The prevailing opinion spring-summer 2007 from all parties concerned behind the scenes was that it was all going to happen in player, as designed... as sales of the newer processors and receivers took off, those talking points faded away.. which made people feel the need to have the latest and greatest.. which they've done, and are doing, in droves...
> 
> 
> Now that Sony, Pioneer, Yamaha, Denon, etc have sold receivers that can do internal decoding (and have either held off development on, or priced said models, BR players that can decode all formats, at a premium) they can revamp their line ups again over the next eighteen months to sell players to those new HBR decoding receiver owners who wonder why their new BD-Live enabled "High School Musical 3" disc with chatty Cathy over the internet interactivity doesn't work for their 8 year old daughters, or that they're only hearing the movie, etc..... should be fun.



None of that is in conflict with bitstreaming.


And sonically, they *should* be indentical. The only thing you can count on is that the bitstream will be perfect. As we've seen with HTPC players, they decode to LPCM, then corrupt the LPCM stream before sending it. I don't trust the players, I trust my pre-pro. Period.


And if there are bugs, I'd rather have one place to fix them then have a bunch of source devices to be fixed. Again, simpler.


And for the rare exceptions where they are going to merge audio, then fine, go with LPCM.


But when there isn't any merged audio, which there isn't on anything today, then it's bizarre to me to even suggest that converting to LPCM in the player makes any sense, versus bitstreaming. At best, it's the same, and at worst, the LPCM will be worse. You know, for sure, that the bitstream will be as good as it can be.


But the point with the D2V2 is that it didn't support any of this (LPCM 7.1 or HD codecs) until now. So whatever your position, you now have those options.


----------



## AbMagFab

Oh, and I just sent an e-mail to my dealer to get me one ASAP!


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14591192
> 
> 
> The new product price is not bad at all considering it likely includes ARC as well.



Isn't it roughly the same as the current version (w/ARC)?


Sanjay


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14591604
> 
> 
> .I am hopeful I can once again be prancing around here alongside you other fine members... maybe even as the starter of the new "Owners" thread..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (for you Hank).



So Marc - is your D2v2 on Order yet?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14591966
> 
> 
> I still share that opinion... I was just wondering what Bob's position was on it, that's all.. I share his opinion (i.e. the whole HDMI 1.3 thing) and hadn't chatted with anyone about it in a while.... I read more into his post than I should have.
> 
> 
> The prevailing opinion spring-summer 2007 from all parties concerned behind the scenes was that it was all going to happen in player, as designed... as sales of the newer processors and receivers took off, those talking points faded away.. which made people feel the need to have the latest and greatest.. which they've done, and are doing, in droves...
> 
> 
> Now that Sony, Pioneer, Yamaha, Denon, etc have sold receivers that can do internal decoding (and have either held off development on, or priced said models, BR players that can decode all formats, at a premium) they can revamp their line ups again over the next eighteen months to sell players to those new HBR decoding receiver owners who wonder why their new BD-Live enabled "High School Musical 3" disc with chatty Cathy over the internet interactivity doesn't work for their 8 year old daughters, or that they're only hearing the movie, etc..... should be fun.



Thanks Marc! Nice to know I wasn't going crazy. Funny how quickly things change in this hobby, isn't it?


BTW, the wife and I watched "The Bucket List" last week. Several times during the movie I said to my wife "that's one of the scenes I saw them doing the sound mixing on with Rob Reiner"!!


I even had to rewind the scene where they jump out of the plane. Well done!


----------



## AnthemAVM

Marc,


Sitting at Cedia with John and RayJr. I even saw Ray wearing an Anthem lanyard.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *anthemavm* /forum/post/14592582
> 
> 
> marc,
> 
> 
> sitting at cedia with john and rayjr. I even saw ray wearing an anthem lanyard.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Ok, I have emailed about the potential for and cost of a D1 to D2v2 upgrade. Will post the response.


If the DSP and VP are being replaced in the upgrade process does not look like there would be that much difference in bumping a D1 as compared to a D2, I hope.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

It will be a few weeks but have decided to give it a try.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14580818
> 
> 
> I'm hoping someone else chimes in here for you. So far, all I can offer is that I've only tried BootCamp (which works, at least with XP), and I can't recall any posts here from folks who've tried VMware Fusion.
> 
> 
> If you try VMware Fusion, please do report how it goes.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/14593654
> 
> 
> Ok, I have emailed about the potential for and cost of a D1 to D2v2 upgrade. Will post the response.
> 
> 
> If the DSP and VP are being replaced in the upgrade process does not look like there would be that much difference in bumping a D1 as compared to a D2, I hope.



I was just thinking that this is probably correct. D1 owners who have not yet upgraded are going to find it even harder to resist this time around.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Poking around in the CEDIA announcements, I was amused to note that "WHDI" is actually happening. You'll be hearing a LOT more about this in 2009.


In case you haven't run into this, WHDI is a *WIRELESS* replacement for HDMI cables. It handles up to 1080p video. Pretty cool, right?


Oh, brother are folks going to have fits about this! Be afraid! Be VERY afraid!


I'll give you a taste: WHDI decides on the fly which parts of the image are less important and, umm, doesn't do them as well. Indeed, if it is struggling it will even drop the low order bits of individual pixel values on the fly. Hey, it's only a low order bit! Who CARES if the resulting color is a little bit off?


It operates in the unlicensed 5GHz band also used by 802.11n wifi networking. WHDI claims it will be a good citizen and not knock your in-house wifi off the air. Of course if your neighbor is ALSO using wifi and WHDI....


Oh and it has encryption to keep the studios happy and to keep your neighbors from picking up what you are watching. Or vice versa. Yah sure, you betcha!


However the custom installers will love it because of all the extra billable hours for sorting out configuration and interference problems.

--Bob


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14592582
> 
> 
> I even saw Ray wearing an Anthem lanyard.



Well I just vomited in my mouth a bit. I hope you took a pic for when Ray denies it to our HT club later.


Sanjay


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14591192
> 
> 
> The new product price is not bad at all considering it likely includes ARC as well.
> 
> 
> The upgrade is in line with what I would expect given that the video board is the single most expensive replaceable piece in the D2 and the DSP also has to be changed.
> 
> 
> I wonder whether they are going to stick with 5.1 analog input?
> 
> 
> I also wonder whether the decoders for TrueHD and DTS-HD MA will be included at first ship?
> 
> 
> By the way, for anybody wondering, I still think it is better to send HDMI LPCM to these beasties.
> 
> --Bob



So what upsets me about this new upgrade, is it is going to be offered to the AVM 50 owners also (Sorry to the AVM 50 owners), but what makes the D2 special anymore.


AVM50 gets ARC!

AVM50 get V2


I understand Anthem needs to sell units, but come on gives us D2 owner something special.


I am sure I am going to get flammed for this, but after leaving Anthem and heading over to Integra. It is going to be really hard to hang on to the D2 when I could get a 9.9 with all the same, plus some other things, but maybe give up some quality and still put money in the bank.


The guy at Anthem was a salesman, and couldn't answer my question. What justifies the higher prices for the D2. I am going to go back over to the booth in the am, and see if I can find out any more news.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/14593654
> 
> 
> Ok, I have emailed about the potential for and cost of a D1 to D2v2 upgrade. Will post the response.
> 
> 
> If the DSP and VP are being replaced in the upgrade process does not look like there would be that much difference in bumping a D1 as compared to a D2, I hope.




We were told by two people, same price of $2500.00


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14594833
> 
> 
> I am sure I am going to get flammed for this, but after leaving Anthem and heading over to Integra. It is going to be really hard to hang on to the D2 when I could get a 9.9 with all the same, maybe give up some quality and still put money in the bank.



Wow 9.9 - Whatever that is.


When can I place my D2v2 UPGRADE order


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14594850
> 
> 
> Wow 9.9 - Whatever that is.




Yeah, not the perfect 10. Just figure it had a zit on this to make it only a 9.9


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I've got a friend considering to buy one but he would like to know if it has this new feature?

Does it?


Thanks


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14594949
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I've got a friend considering to buy one but he would like to know if it has this new feature?
> 
> Does it?
> 
> 
> Thanks




No, but I will verify that.


----------



## Rayjr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/14594178
> 
> 
> Well I just vomited in my mouth a bit. I hope you took a pic for when Ray denies it to our HT club later.
> 
> 
> Sanjay



Sanjay,

I told you I was weak....and cave easily to peer pressure.....I am sorry






































RayJr


----------



## henningh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14594833
> 
> 
> So what upsets me about this new upgrade, is it is going to be offered to the AVM 50 owners also (Sorry to the AVM 50 owners), but what makes the D2 special anymore.
> 
> 
> AVM50 gets ARC!
> 
> AVM50 get V2
> 
> 
> I understand Anthem needs to sell units, but come on gives us D2 owner something special.
> 
> 
> I am sure I am going to get flammed for this, but after leaving Anthem and heading over to Integra. It is going to be really hard to hang on to the D2 when I could get a 9.9 with all the same, maybe give up some quality and still put money in the bank. ...



The D2, in my eyes, was always about sound quality, not features. That's what set it apart from the AVM50. Which is a perfectly reasonable strategy. And for me and my wallet, I much appreciate the fact that the AVM50 is getting the upgrade too. I'm still saving up for one!


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14594850
> 
> 
> when can i place my d2v2 upgrade order



+1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14589926
> 
> 
> add the following from version one plus
> 
> 
> 4 additional HDMI in 1 more out
> 
> 
> new VXP9452 video processor
> 
> 
> dual core audio DSP engines offers a total of 800 mips to decode al hd audio standards
> 
> 
> supports 7.1
> 
> 
> upgrade is 2K for current D2 owwners.
> 
> 
> thought it would be out in about 60 days




This is a great news!!!!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14591489
> 
> 
> Bob... I haven't been following this thread lately, but just curious as to the why? Do you also think it better to decode DD and DTS in a DVD player, and if not, why the "double" standard..
> 
> 
> For the multitude of receivers I've gone through over the last 12 months, I've been happier to do the decoding in the receiver if not just for the ability to have OSD access to information about the track... in my listening tests, I've found no sonic differences in regards to DD+ or TrueHD...
> 
> 
> Just curious...
> 
> 
> And now that I'm back in my old house (the one I tried to sell which forced my D2 sale) the timing couldn't be better.. D2 V2 might have to be my next processor..



THis is interesting. Having the capability of doing the decoding in both location will add flexibility.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14594840
> 
> 
> We were told by two people, same price of $2500.00



Well I'm happy that Anthem is keeping up with the Joneses with hdmi 1.3, bitstream conversion of the hd audio formats, 7.1 now etc..., but it's only been months since I parted with $2400 for the first video upgrade. If they offered a discount for recent adopters I'd consider it but I'm going to sit this round out. I have 6 large ATC speakers and couldn't imagine reconfiguring to get 7 so 7.1 is unnecessary for me. Perhaps the D3 will use different dacs etc... so I'll live with the D2 v1 for now. Or even, gasp gasp, just continue to use this great sounding and performing product as is since the performance is already fabulous!!!!


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14592117
> 
> 
> But when there isn't any merged audio, which there isn't on anything today,



Except for every title with Bonus View, for example










Which is almost every title released today....


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


After having had some misadventures lately where my D2 maybe was the cause (one mid-woofer coil burn and one tweeter seriously damaged) I am now back on track with almost brand new speakers.


So I ran ARC again but this time I made some modifications to the targets defined by ARC:

- For movie:

I used all my 7.1 speakers

Changed target freq from 5000 to 12000

Left the crossover points and gain as is
- For music:

I used only 2.1 speakers

Changed target freq from 5000 to 20000

Changed my L/R speaker cross point from 50 to 25

Changed my sub cross point from 120 to 60

Changed my gain from +0.000 (?????) to what was calculated for movie
Then I calculated and uploaded. I attached screenshots.

It sounds good.

What do you think of the procedure and settings?

Why do you think ARC set a value of +0.000 gain for music? To me it looks like a bug as I think that gain is room dependant and should be the same for both profile.


Thank you


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14594833
> 
> 
> I am sure I am going to get flammed for this, but after leaving Anthem and heading over to Integra. It is going to be really hard to hang on to the D2 when I could get a 9.9 with all the same, plus some other things, but maybe give up some quality and still put money in the bank.




No flame.










But you should start another threads and keep those questions for another threads, please. We don't want all the 9.8 fanboys (we all know them, the 3-4 usual suspects) always bashing everything out there that is not made by Integra... Always the same really vocal 3 or 4 9.8 owners...


I know you well, and I know you are asking this with good intentions... But we don't wan't those 3-4 flamers and confrontationnals guys coming in here polluting one of the best and more informative thread on AVS...










The only thing allowed in here are frustrated and tired of waiting Halcro owners (we all know the one...), Theta and Lexicon owners that will probably make the switch for a much better pre/pro soon...







(just kidding).


But please. No mass-market Integra Research 9.8, 9.9, 10.1, 10.2 (coming out every 6 months) talk in here, please!


We all know the 9.8, 9.9, 9.8 & 1/2, etc, is a better buy, that it's the best thing that came to earth since the flushing toilet, and that every other pre/pro out there are not worth it, overpriced, and that it's not true that IR/Onkyo after sales services sucks, and blah blah blah...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The primary advantages of the D2 over the AVM-50 remain what they were since the day the two of them were FIRST LAUNCHED:


1) Upsampling all audio input to 192KHz while retaining full audio processing.


2) Better audio output DACs


3) Better power supply


There has *NEVER* been a video difference between the D2 and the AVM-50 so arguing that there should be one now seems to miss the point. The HDMI change is part of the video board, so upping to 7.1 audio input comes with that.


The only thing the AVM customers got that was a surprise was access to improved DSPs -- which means they can upgrade to ARC now and will also be able to upgrade to internal bitstream decoding in a few months.


Of course since I continue to recommend that folks use HDMI LPCM instead of internal bitstream decoding that's not that big a deal.


The bottom line is that folks have to realize they are paying the extra money in the D2 for the 3 key features stated at the top. These are the things that push the D2 into the exotic class of pre-pros, and they do cost money if you want to go for them. Personally, I think the audio quality from the D2 makes them a bargain. Those that don't agree can save money and go for the AVM-50 instead -- which is REALLY the product that ought to be compared to AV Receivers sold by the major manufacturers. Frankly, I think the audio and video quality from an AVM-50 with ARC upgrade is going to be hard to match from any major brand product even BEFORE the v.2 upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14595176
> 
> 
> Well I'm happy that Anthem is keeping up with the Joneses with hdmi 1.3, bitstream conversion of the hd audio formats, 7.1 now etc..., but it's only been months since I parted with $2400 for the first video upgrade. If they offered a discount for recent adopters I'd consider it but I'm going to sit this round out. I have 6 large ATC speakers and couldn't imagine reconfiguring to get 7 so 7.1 is unnecessary for me. Perhaps the D3 will use different dacs etc... so I'll live with the D2 v1 for now. Or even, gasp gasp, just continue to use this great sounding and performing product as is since the performance is already fabulous!!!!



For many current owners, there's no rush to get the v.2 upgrade based on what we know now. Some questions to ask yourself:


1) Do you have a 7.1 speaker system or plan to move to one soon?


2) Do you have a "Deep Color" capable display or plan to move to one soon?


3) Do you have more than 4 HDMI source devices, or could you benefit from an extra HDMI output?


4) Have you bought into the Kool-ade that says bitstream decoding in the pre-pro is better than having your Blu-Ray player do the decoding?


-----------------------------------------


Now this assumes the basic audio and video processing in the v.2 is identical to what we have now. It is quite possible that Anthem may be offering access to enhanced video processing features found in the new Sigma video chip, and they may be offering enhanced audio processing features -- using some of the excess power of the new DSPs. We don't know yet. Indeed, some such changes might not happen until firmware releases AFTER the v.2 ships. Any such changes would up the ante -- even more reason for current owners to upgrade.


But of course anyone buying a NEW unit should definitely go for the v.2. Remember, the new unit pricing includes ARC.


And D1 owners who have *NOT* yet upgraded to the D1-HD (=D2) really ought to take a serious look at whether now is the time.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14595853
> 
> 
> For many current owners, there's no rush to get the v.2 upgrade based on what we know now. Some questions to ask yourself:
> 
> 
> 1) Do you have a 7.1 speaker system or plan to move to one soon?
> 
> 
> 2) Do you have a "Deep Color" capable display or plan to move to one soon?
> 
> 
> 3) Do you have more than 4 HDMI source devices, or could you benefit from an extra HDMI output?
> 
> 
> 4) Have you bought into the Kool-ade that says bitstream decoding in the pre-pro is better than having your Blu-Ray player do the decoding?
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now this assumes the basic audio and video processing in the v.2 is identical to what we have now. It is quite possible that Anthem may be offering access to enhanced video processing features found in the new Sigma video chip, and they may be offering enhanced audio processing features -- using some of the excess power of the new DSPs. We don't know yet. Indeed, some such changes might not happen until firmware releases AFTER the v.2 ships. Any such changes would up the ante -- even more reason for current owners to upgrade.
> 
> 
> But of course anyone buying a NEW unit should definitely go for the v.2. Remember, the new unit pricing includes ARC.
> 
> 
> And D1 owners who have *NOT* yet upgraded to the D1-HD (=D2) really ought to take a serious look at whether now is the time.
> 
> --Bob



Well, I do own a 7.1 system. An I won't be having a BD player (maybe ever). My BD's play from a streamer so I'd prefer to have a better decoding than the internal one.

Are those sufficient reasons?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

****************************************************


*** THERE IS A CORRECTION IN THIS POST!


***************************************************


Additional D2 v.2 Info!*


Just got an email from Nick regarding the v.2.


* Their intent is to offer upgrades to current owners at the same time the new units launch. They're in a critical period right now -- seeing how manufacturing starts up -- so we'll just have to see if they can meet that.


* I asked whether full decoding of all the new formats would make the first shipment or whether they expected any pieces of it might be delayed to a subsequent firmware update. His answer is that as of now they expect it all to make the first shipment. Again, we'll just have to wait and see.

** CORRECTION: The two HDMI outputs can *NOT* be separately configured. They will have the *SAME* output resolution.*


* On the down side, the analog input will still be limited to 5.1. I'm not surprised by this, but we need to make sure analog folks understand this.


* The only back panel change is for the HDMI sockets.


More news as I get it.

--Bob


----------



## henningh

I just wish they'd have more out there about the AVM50 upgrade. It's been said here that the AVM50 would get a v2, but I've seen nothing official from Anthem. If you have, please post the link!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *henningh* /forum/post/14595984
> 
> 
> I just wish they'd have more out there about the AVM50 upgrade. It's been said here that the AVM50 would get a v2, but I've seen nothing official from Anthem. If you have, please post the link!



Poster JAYRAY met with Nick at Anthem yesterday and reported in this post that Nick said the AVM-50 v.2 was also official:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post14590504 


[John, are you certain you reported that correctly?]


The Anthem press release only discusses the D2 v.2, but that could be because they didn't have a prototype AVM-50 v.2 to show at CEDIA.

--Bob


----------



## Mark Paquette

Any news for us lowly AVM30 owners who upgraded our units to AVM50?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14595896
> 
> 
> Well, I do own a 7.1 system. An I won't be having a BD player (maybe ever). My BD's play from a streamer so I'd prefer to have a better decoding than the internal one.
> 
> Are those sufficient reasons?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yes! You may buy a D2 v.2 upgrade with my blessings!










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Paquette* /forum/post/14596120
> 
> 
> Any news for us lowly AVM30 owners who upgraded our units to AVM50?



Sorry, no news yet. You might want to email Anthem tech support and report back!


For that matter, we don't actually have any official word that D1 owners who upgraded to the D1-HD will actually be able to upgrade further to the v.2. I think they most likely *WILL* be able to do so, but it hasn't been confirmed yet.

--Bob


----------



## ASW

Will the D2V2 still require multiple inputs for multiple zones (e.g., requirement that you use composite connections for a composite Zone 2 or 3, S-video for S-video 2 or 3, etc.). I am assuming yes given what I have read, but the lack of video conversion in Zones 2 and 3 makes my back panel a mess with three connections required per source (and I note my old Pioneer Elite VSX-49TX could do video format conversions in multiple zones).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14596174
> 
> 
> Will the D2V2 still require multiple inputs for multiple zones (e.g., requirement that you use composite connections for a composite Zone 2 or 3, S-video for S-video 2 or 3, etc.). I am assuming yes given what I have read, but the lack of video conversion in Zones 2 and 3 makes my back panel a mess with three connections required per source (and I note my old Pioneer Elite VSX-49TX could do video format conversions in multiple zones).



The reason for the multiple inputs requirement is the copy protection on the HDMI inputs and that there is only one "Main" audio processing path.


Thus you can't get HDMI input sent to the Zone 2 (Component) output, and you can't "process" (which includes converting digital to analog) any audio input except for the one selected for the Main path.


I would not expect either of those issues to go away in the v.2.


Of course on the video side, you could configure the second HDMI output for your second display. We know it can be configured to a different output resolution for example. But I suspect it will still have to be a "Main" path output -- meaning it has to play the same video source as is currently selected for the normal Main path output.

*CORRECTION: Latest word is that the two HDMI outputs can *NOT* have different output resolutions.*


-----------------------------------------


I also don't think we'll see any changes in the subwoofer outputs. I.e., it is likely that all 4 of them will still only carry the identical signal without ability to control phase or volume separately for example.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike

Bob - Thank you for the information!


The cost seemes kind of steep, especially for those that already upgraded to the current D2....


Next, I am a little dissapointed at not adding 7.1 analog inputs - I like my current SACD/DVD player and don't want to upgrade.


This may sound like a basic question, but will the two HDMI outputs work at the same time?


If so, can you select different video settings for each output simultaneously?


Can you have different inputs outputting from the two HDMI outputs simultaneously and with different settings? (i.e. - like a 2nd zone output).


I hope these question are clear.


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Some folks might find this article interesting:

http://www.cepro.com/article/inside_...ing_classroom/ 


It describes the factory training room used for Paradigm and Anthem dealer training.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14596078
> 
> 
> Poster JAYRAY met with Nick at Anthem yesterday and reported in this post that Nick said the AVM-50 v.2 was also official:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post14590504
> 
> 
> [John, are you certain you reported that correctly?]
> 
> 
> The Anthem press release only discusses the D2 v.2, but that could be because they didn't have a prototype AVM-50 v.2 to show at CEDIA.
> 
> --Bob



This is what Nick told me. Given I have an AVM 50, I was listening very closely







We even discussed whether it would be something I would benefit from. Given my equipment includes a PS3 and HD DVD player with internal decoding , for 7.1 I use PLIIx, and still have one hdmi open, I came to the conclusion, no it wouldn't.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14596264
> 
> 
> Bob - Thank you for the information!
> 
> 
> The cost seemes kind of steep, especially for those that already upgraded to the current D2....
> 
> 
> Next, I am a little dissapointed at not adding 7.1 analog inputs - I like my current SACD/DVD player and don't want to upgrade.
> 
> 
> This may sound like a basic question, but will the two HDMI outputs work at the same time?
> 
> 
> If so, can you select different video settings for each output simultaneously?
> 
> 
> Can you have different inputs outputting from the two HDMI outputs simultaneously and with different settings? (i.e. - like a 2nd zone output).
> 
> 
> I hope these question are clear.
> 
> 
> Mike



It's been confirmed by Nick that the two outputs can be separately configured -- can have different output resolutions for example.

*CORRECTION: The latest word is that the two HDMI outputs can *NOT* have different output resolutions!*


We have no reason at this point, however, to think that they've added a second Main path. Which means both HDMI outputs likely have to display the same source input.


The new video processor chip has two processing cores so it may turn out that they HAVE added a second Main video path -- or will do so in the future. But right now we have no word on that.


If I had to guess, it will be one video source going to two different configurations of HDMI output.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14596264
> 
> 
> Next, I am a little dissapointed at not adding 7.1 analog inputs - I like my current SACD/DVD player and don't want to upgrade.
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike... why would you have to change the player? If you are using it's 5.1 analog outputs, what will you be missing in not having 7.1 analog?


just curious.. don't quite understand what you are looking for.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14596405
> 
> 
> Mike... why would you have to change the player? If you are using it's 5.1 analog outputs, what will you be missing in not having 7.1 analog?
> 
> 
> just curious.. don't quite understand what you are looking for.



I am one of the few D2 users that actually likes and would use (if it worked correctly) the reverse function for the rears/surrounds for the 5.1 input. I like to use my direct radiating rears for SACD/DVDA (versus my ADP surrounds). Anthem is aware that the reverse function does not work correctly (and Nick has known for about 18 months), but has decided not to fix the programming because they feel that nobody really uses it. They actually will probably be dropping the function in the V2 upgrade.


If they added the 7.1 analog inputs, then I could just route my surrounds from my 5.1 analog output to the rear analog input. That is what I did with my previous two processors that I used (Arcam 700 and Integra 9.8).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14595308
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> After having had some misadventures lately where my D2 maybe was the cause (one mid-woofer coil burn and one tweeter seriously damaged) I am now back on track with almost brand new speakers.
> 
> 
> So I ran ARC again but this time I made some modifications to the targets defined by ARC:
> 
> - For movie:
> 
> I used all my 7.1 speakers
> 
> Changed target freq from 5000 to 12000
> 
> Left the crossover points and gain as is
> - For music:
> 
> I used only 2.1 speakers
> 
> Changed target freq from 5000 to 20000
> 
> Changed my L/R speaker cross point from 50 to 25
> 
> Changed my sub cross point from 120 to 60
> 
> Changed my gain from +0.000 (?????) to what was calculated for movie
> Then I calculated and uploaded. I attached screenshots.
> 
> It sounds good.
> 
> What do you think of the procedure and settings?
> 
> Why do you think ARC set a value of +0.000 gain for music? To me it looks like a bug as I think that gain is room dependant and should be the same for both profile.
> 
> 
> Thank you



Your Movie results look OK to me. It looks like you've got a pretty severe room null around 30 Hz (affecting all speakers), and that's left a residual between 20Hz and 30Hz in your subwoofer. Adjusting room treatments might help with that (or some minor repositioning of the subwoofer), but ARC has tamed most of it and you might want to just leave well enough alone.


Now your Measured curves for LF/RF don't show any Room Gain that I can pick up by eye, so it appears ARC has detected the Room Gain by relying on the center, side and rear curves.


But you aren't using any of those speakers in your Music configuration and so ARC doesn't see the results from them.


All 3 of the Measured curves for Music look much worse in bass than the same speakers for Movie. Did you use different mic locations for Music compared to Movie? Are your mic positions properly spread apart?


I can see based on these Measured curves why ARC didn't find a Room Gain. The curves make it look like you've got NEGATIVE Room Gain. Adjusting the Room Gain to match what Movie found was probably wise.


However the bad Calculated curves you've got are probably a result of pushing the crossovers down too close to that severe room Null you've got at 30Hz -- as well as forcing ARC to divert too much of its attention to the high frequencies.


So I think there may have been a problem in the way you took the Measurements for the Music pass, and I think you should NOT push the Max EQ Frequency up so far for Music, and I think you should NOT try to lower the LF/RF crossover the way you did for Music. Putting in the manual Room Gain change was likely a good idea.


You should give some thought as to what you might be able to do with room treatment or speaker repositioning regarding that room null at 30Hz. Also, you may have OVER treated the LF/RF speakers in the region from 50Hz to 150Hz. Flattening out what should have been their normal response to the Room Gain of your room.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO D2 v.2 INFO!*


I just got word from Nick at Anthem retracting the earlier statement that the two HDMI outputs of the D2 v.2 could be set to different video output resolutions. Apparently they will only output the same signal.


I'm trying to clarify now whether that is a permanent restriction or just something peculiar to the first release firmware included at launch of the D2 v.2.


-------------------------------------


I'm reporting this info as I get it folks, so be aware that some of the early reports may need corrections. I've edited the posts discussing this in the past 2 pages.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Additional D2 v.2 Info -- xv.YCC Color Space*


I just got word from Nick that the D2 v.2 *WILL* support the xv.YCC color space (another optional feature of the HDMI V1.3 spec) in addition to Deep Color bit depth.


NOTE: The Sigma Designs video processor does its internal video manipulations in RGB and that means that there will be portions of the full xv.YCC color gamut that get clipped since they can't be represented in the RGB color gamut. This is not unlike many display and other video devices you will see out there that accept xv.YCC but can only reach a portion of the full gamut. Since there's no content that uses the full gamut this should not be an issue.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

While I will likely upgrade I sure would have liked to have seen an ethernet and/or a USB interface added. $2.5K is a good chunk of change but probably worth it for the updated video processor and latest HDMI spec. Hopefully the 1.3c interface will add some stability and future proofing. Like most here decoding the HD audio codecs is low on my priority list as neither of my two HD players can bitstream anyway.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14596635
> 
> 
> Your Movie results look OK to me. It looks like you've got a pretty severe room null around 30 Hz (affecting all speakers), and that's left a residual between 20Hz and 30Hz in your subwoofer. Adjusting room treatments might help with that (or some minor repositioning of the subwoofer), but ARC has tamed most of it and you might want to just leave well enough alone.
> 
> 
> Now your Measured curves for LF/RF don't show any Room Gain that I can pick up by eye, so it appears ARC has detected the Room Gain by relying on the center, side and rear curves.
> 
> 
> But you aren't using any of those speakers in your Music configuration and so ARC doesn't see the results from them.
> 
> 
> All 3 of the Measured curves for Music look much worse in bass than the same speakers for Movie. Did you use different mic locations for Music compared to Movie? Are your mic positions properly spread apart?
> 
> 
> I can see based on these Measured curves why ARC didn't find a Room Gain. The curves make it look like you've got NEGATIVE Room Gain. Adjusting the Room Gain to match what Movie found was probably wise.
> 
> 
> However the bad Calculated curves you've got are probably a result of pushing the crossovers down too close to that severe room Null you've got at 30Hz -- as well as forcing ARC to divert too much of its attention to the high frequencies.
> 
> 
> So I think there may have been a problem in the way you took the Measurements for the Music pass, and I think you should NOT push the Max EQ Frequency up so far for Music, and I think you should NOT try to lower the LF/RF crossover the way you did for Music. Putting in the manual Room Gain change was likely a good idea.
> 
> 
> You should give some thought as to what you might be able to do with room treatment or speaker repositioning regarding that room null at 30Hz. Also, you may have OVER treated the LF/RF speakers in the region from 50Hz to 150Hz. Flattening out what should have been their normal response to the Room Gain of your room.
> 
> --Bob



Good G., you're a mine of information.

Let's make this useful.

1- I know about the steep drop around 30Hz. But, as they say, whatamigonnadooo? I mean, what's the opposite of "Bass traps"?

2- Quote: "Now your Measured curves for LF/RF don't show any Room Gain that I can pick up by eye, so it appears ARC has detected the Room Gain by relying on the center, side and rear curves."

What do you mean? How can it be that the measurement for L+R didn't detect the same room gain? I think I misunderstand the Room gain.

3- I did use different positions for Music, of course. When I listen to music I am usually alone. So the positions are kind of 30+ cm away from my sitting position and about 90' apart from each other (center + 4 pos. at 360').

What should I do?

4- Quote: "you may have OVER treated the LF/RF speakers in the region from 50Hz to 150Hz. Flattening out what should have been their normal response to the Room Gain of your room."

How did I do that? How can I correct that?

5- My intention with the crossover points for music was to minimize the sub's presence and to maximize the use of my L+R as they truly are high-end speakers.

How would you achieve that better than me?


Thank you very much.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Additional D2 v.2 Info*


I asked Nick to speculate on additional video and audio features that might be added in the v.2.


It looks probable that the enhanced noise reduction and automatic contrast adjustment features of the new video processor will be made accessible.


The new processor also has a more sophisticated color correction scheme that could affect how gamma correction is set up (I'm speculating here). I don't know yet what changes might be coming due to that.


He thinks it more likely that 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion (for film based content) will be doable in the new video processor. He's checking on that.


He thinks the horizontal squeeze feature desired by some Constant Image Height projector setup folks will become a priority in the code for the new video processor.


"THX Loudness" and "Dolby Volume" (buzzwords from CEDIA) are not in the software at the moment. He suspects decisions on things like these will be pending the responses they get back from CEDIA.


He is being quite cautious, justifiably so in my opinion, about certification status for the new bitstream decoders. As many manufacturers have found out, the timing on final approval for these is often not under your control. But it is clear that Anthem is committed to making these happen as quickly as possible. Beyond that, it is kind of pointless to speculate further at the moment.


----------------------------------------


I've got another question in to him now trying to clarify what upgrade combinations will be offered. For example, AVM-30HD to AVM-50 v.2, and etc. I'm also trying to get a handle on how the upgrades work with ARC. For example is ARC still sold as a separate upgrade, and do existing ARC customers need to get new licensing/calibration files because the v.2 upgrade changes the internal serial number in the unit?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14598373
> 
> 
> Good G., you're a mine of information.
> 
> Let's make this useful.
> 
> 1- I know about the steep drop around 30Hz. But, as they say, whatamigonnadooo? I mean, what's the opposite of "Bass traps"?
> 
> 2- Quote: "Now your Measured curves for LF/RF don't show any Room Gain that I can pick up by eye, so it appears ARC has detected the Room Gain by relying on the center, side and rear curves."
> 
> What do you mean? How can it be that the measurement for L+R didn't detect the same room gain? I think I misunderstand the Room gain.
> 
> 3- I did use different positions for Music, of course. When I listen to music I am usually alone. So the positions are kind of 30+ cm away from my sitting position and about 90' apart from each other (center + 4 pos. at 360').
> 
> What should I do?
> 
> 4- Quote: "you may have OVER treated the LF/RF speakers in the region from 50Hz to 150Hz. Flattening out what should have been their normal response to the Room Gain of your room."
> 
> How did I do that? How can I correct that?
> 
> 5- My intention with the crossover points for music was to minimize the sub's presence and to maximize the use of my L+R as they truly are high-end speakers.
> 
> How would you achieve that better than me?
> 
> 
> Thank you very much.



1) I don't think it's the opposite of bass traps that you need. Instead you need bass traps that will prevent the reflections that are causing the standing waves at 30Hz -- i.e., causing the cancellation. But I can't really offer you any advice on that.


2) I don't know why your LF/RF speakers aren't showing the Room Gain that's showing up in the other speakers. They OUGHT to couple to the room the same way the other speakers are doing, but for some reason they seem to be weak across the region where the other speakers are showing the expected hump.


3) I think you should consider using the same mic locations you use for Movie. By the way, 30cm is under 12 inches from the #1 position to each of the other 4, that's definitely too close. You want at least 24 inches (61cm) between any 2 mic positions. Remember you are sampling the standing wave characteristics of the room, so it is not good to concentrate the mic positions too closely around your primary listening position. The mics have to be spaced to pick up the variations due to the standing waves.


4) I don't know why your LF/RF speakers are low in the region where ARC wants to put the hump in the target curve. I thought perhaps you might have added some room treatment specific to those speakers that was over-absorbing their output.


5) If you can't get rid of that 30Hz null, you need to avoid it. I think you will do better with the crossovers that ARC suggested. It looks to me like your subwoofer is better able to overpower that null than your main speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Upgrades to v.2*


OK the word I got from Nick is that their INTENT is to offer upgrades to D2 v.2 for D1, D1-HD, and D2 customers and to offer upgrades to AVM-50 v.2 for AVM-30, AVM-30HD, AVM-50 and AVM-50/ARC customers.


However the details are still being worked out and so nothing is cast in stone on timing or pricing until the formal announcements come out.


He says existing ARC customers will, most likely, need to get a new pair of licensing/calibration files from Anthem to match the new serial number that will come with their v.2 upgrade. It may be Anthem will just do this via email.


I'm assuming there would be no charge for getting these ARC files.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

It sounds like the picture in picture feature will not be available since both hdmi outputs will be outputting the same input. Is that a correct assumption? That's one feature I really miss now since it's football season again.


----------



## dweltman

Bob:


I have 2 specific questions about the D2V2:


1) will there be a difference in price between a D2 upgrade and a D2 which already has ARC? There should be.


2) My 80G PS3 has the capability to pass 5.1 channel SACD via HDMI at a very high bitrate, 176/24 (or something like that). However, the D2 is limited to receiving 96/24, and you end actually getting 88/24 (which apparently is appropriate given the DSD->PCM conversion). It was never clear to me whether that was an HDMI 1.1 issue or not, and I always thought the Anthem official position paper on HDMI was somewhat deceptive on this question. It sounds from the 192/24 stuff being thrown around, that the V2 will accept this higher rate multichannel PCM from my PS3. Is this true, for sure?


dave


----------



## yacht422

walt here. Wow. much ado since last i was here. exciting to be sure, but the deep color thing is what, years off for practical application? and, there is nothing included for picking the pebbles out of my tires









back to reality.

i am posting the fourth set of measurements, but, with questions.

(1) i compared charts b/4 and after changing the freq. range from 5K to 12K, and found the only change was in the center channel, and only at the 10K spot, and only a raise of maybe 5db. So, here is my question: do we need to preselect the range b/4 measuring? Or, can we, as i have done, measure at 5K, and THEN change the range to(12K) ? Should(will ) the results be different? Why?!

(2) note the sub line. what happened? all previous sub measurements have pretty much followed the target line. Now, I have the "bump".

(FYI) have moved the towers further out from the wall(now at the RIVES 20% distance) have also tuned the servo 15 to better agree with the towers sub woofers - (they are 8"ers, three per tower)

(perhaps i did a poor adjustment?! it's an audible thing, not a measured result)

Again, my appreciation.

walt


----------



## yacht422

I also lost gain: went from 3.8+(three measurements) to 2+for this measurement(4th).

Is this an issue?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14599835
> 
> 
> walt here. Wow. much ado since last i was here. exciting to be sure, but the deep color thing is what, years off for practical application? and, there is nothing included for picking the pebbles out of my tires
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> back to reality.
> 
> i am posting the fourth set of measurements, but, with questions.
> 
> (1) i compared charts b/4 and after changing the freq. range from 5K to 12K, and found the only change was in the center channel, and only at the 10K spot, and only a raise of maybe 5db. So, here is my question: do we need to preselect the range b/4 measuring? Or, can we, as i have done, measure at 5K, and THEN change the range to(12K) ? Should(will ) the results be different? Why?!
> 
> (2) note the sub line. what happened? all previous sub measurements have pretty much followed the target line. Now, I have the "bump".
> 
> (FYI) have moved the towers further out from the wall(now at the RIVES 20% distance) have also tuned the servo 15 to better agree with the towers sub woofers - (they are 8"ers, three per tower)
> 
> (perhaps i did a poor adjustment?! it's an audible thing, not a measured result)
> 
> Again, my appreciation.
> 
> walt



I would still suggest increasing noise level by +4dB, the reason is for the test signal to be stronger than the ambient noise(NC). This would make your measurements more accurate(your target curve will be then exactly at 75dB on the graph). I noticed also that the Sub measurement is different from the usual. Is your internal sub crossover engaged or at least set at a low level?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14598190
> 
> *Additional D2 v.2 Info -- xv.YCC Color Space*
> 
> 
> I just got word from Nick that the D2 v.2 *WILL* support the xv.YCC color space (another optional feature of the HDMI V1.3 spec) in addition to Deep Color bit depth.
> 
> 
> NOTE: The Sigma Designs video processor does its internal video manipulations in RGB and that means that there will be portions of the full xv.YCC color gamut that get clipped since they can't be represented in the RGB color gamut. This is not unlike many display and other video devices you will see out there that accept xv.YCC but can only reach a portion of the full gamut. Since there's no content that uses the full gamut this should not be an issue.
> 
> --Bob



Cool using the Pioneer 05 and an appropriate projector I will able to play with this and see the real value of this. I still doubth it is a useful feature except for video games and pc.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14591281
> 
> 
> Here's the Sigma Designs press release from when this new video processor chip was announced last April. Note that Sigma Designs acquired the Gennum video processor business in February, 2008:
> 
> http://www.reuters.com/article/press...008+BW20080414
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ============================================
> 
> 
> ETA: Here's the link to the product info page for this processor on the Sigma Designs web site:
> 
> http://www.sigmadesigns.com/public/P...2/VXP9452.html
> 
> 
> ETA 2: Obviously this new processor is capable of handling "Deep Color" if the HDMI chips on the new board are HDMI V1.3 (which must be the case since the new unit will allow bitstreaming), but I see no specific mention of support for xv.YCC color space.
> 
> 
> --Bob



I am anxious to see its performance. Mainly on such as noise reduction


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I asked about upgrading a D1. Was not discouraged or promised. Just told to wait and watch. Also told that anything discussed Cedia would be "new" no sooner than two months.


These are the two Web links that I was given to watch for announcements.

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Upgrades/Upgra 

des.html

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...pgrade_HW.html 

(with D2 to follow suit when it gets a hardware upgrade)








> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/14593654
> 
> 
> Ok, I have emailed about the potential for and cost of a D1 to D2v2 upgrade. Will post the response.
> 
> 
> If the DSP and VP are being replaced in the upgrade process does not look like there would be that much difference in bumping a D1 as compared to a D2, I hope.


----------



## boe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14591513
> 
> 
> Here is the official press release from Anthem for the "D2 v.2" -- hot off the press:
> 
> http://www.castercomm.com/prView.cfm?cid=111&id=208
> 
> 
> 
> 
> =========================
> 
> 
> ETA: Note that the HDMI is V1.3c (8 in, 2 out). I still see no mention of xv.YCC color space support.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Did I miss the Estimated Time of Arrival on that new unit?


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14598142
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO D2 v.2 INFO!*
> 
> 
> I just got word from Nick at Anthem retracting the earlier statement that the two HDMI outputs of the D2 v.2 could be set to different video output resolutions. Apparently they will only output the same signal.
> 
> 
> I'm trying to clarify now whether that is a permanent restriction or just something peculiar to the first release firmware included at launch of the D2 v.2.
> 
> --Bob



The inability to output two different resolutions would be the second killer for me. I have my 1080p/24/60 capable projector, but everything else has a maximum 1080i/60 input resolution.


I would not want to sacrifice my projector quality in order to meet the requirements of my other display sources.


At a possible price of $2500 to upgrade without 7.1 analog in and with the two HDMI outputs only able to output the identical thing I can't really see what this upgrade offers current D1HD or D2 owners.


----------



## DEHAAS

This v2 stuff sounds amazing if you got the equipment to support it (7.1 speaker setup, display with deep color support etc.). I am an AVM-50 owner, and I just ordered the ARC-1 upgrade. If I decide to get this v2 upgrade whenever it comes out, does this mean that the money I spend for the additional DSP was a waste, since the DSP's will be changed in the upgrade?


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14601567
> 
> 
> The inability to output two different resolutions would be the second killer for me. I have my 1080p/24/60 capable projector, but everything else has a maximum 1080i/60 input resolution.
> 
> 
> I would not want to sacrifice my projector quality in order to meet the requirements of my other display sources.
> 
> 
> At a possible price of $2500 to upgrade without 7.1 analog in and with the two HDMI outputs only able to output the identical thing I can't really see what this upgrade offers current D1HD or D2 owners.



Cyclone.


You can set-up 2 different video output with 2 different resolutions if you want. No problems. It takes 2 sec to switch between them.







Anthem already tought about that.


----------



## thebland

I had dinner with Kris Deering last night and we chatted about the Anthem for a bit.


My interpretation of HDMI on the V2 was that apparently the 2 HDMI outputs can only be used 1 at a time (like a switcher) not simultaneously. The only other application I know of with 2 HDMI outs is the Lumagen Radiance that can send out 2 similtaneous, identical resolutions (and audio) _or_ send 1 video and the other audio only.


Kris can correct me but that was how I understood things. There is no other processor I saw with so many features, inputs, etc.


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14600240
> 
> 
> I would still suggest increasing noise level by +4dB, the reason is for the test signal to be stronger than the ambient noise(NC). This would make your measurements more accurate(your target curve will be then exactly at 75dB on the graph). I noticed also that the Sub measurement is different from the usual. Is your internal sub crossover engaged or at least set at a low level?



thx for the insights.

when i did the current measurement, i had all speakers balanced to each other, at a pink noise setting of +4, with all speakers reading 74 db on a r/s meter set at '70' , slow weighting, etc. with the sub reading 73db as well. then, after the first pass, arc said it could not find the sub.







so, i increased the level and arc was happy







. now, i find that arc has, post measurements, assigned a -3DB value to the sub







. (and, the sub is too boomy, needs work) But, the point is, when i had the sub properly set, arc could not 'find it'!

further to your comments;

the test noise level is +4db.

sub xover is set to mid range(prox80)

this sub has a boost control, ranging from '0' to /+6DB'. i have it set at +3DB.

walt


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/14602781
> 
> 
> I had dinner with Kris Deering last night and we chatted about the Anthem for a bit.
> 
> 
> My interpretation of HDMI on the V2 was that apparently the 2 HDMI outputs can only be used 1 at a time (like a switcher) not simultaneously. The only other application I know of with 2 HDMI outs is the Lumagen Radiance that can send out 2 similtaneous, identical resolutions (and audio) _or_ send 1 video and the other audio only.
> 
> 
> Kris can correct me but that was how I understood things. There is no other processor I saw with so many features, inputs, etc.



There are a few others with 2 HDMI outputs, although only the Lumagen seems useful. For example, the Onkyo 905 has two HDMI outs, but only one can be active at a time (and you need to see the screen to switch HDMI outputs, which makes it pretty useless).


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/14602781
> 
> 
> Kris can correct me but that was how I understood things. There is no other processor I saw with so many features, inputs, etc.



While 8 HDMI inputs is a first, the D2 v.2, at this point and not announced, doesn't have HD or Satellite Radio, iPod connectivity, streamed audio restoration, network streaming or firmware updating, any kind of "Dynamic EQ or Volume," 3 sub outputs, 5.1 Zone 2 outpus, etc.. convenience feature for some to be sure, but I don't think that you can say it is more feature complete than it's competitors products.


So I think it still won't be competitive on the feature set against something like the Denon AVP..


What it does have in spades is a great video solution (even if it is a new solution, the history of that product line speaks for itself), amazing customer support, a company that is willing to listen to users and solve issues in a timely manner, fairly deep tweak-ability, good build quality and the great Anthem sound at a fairly competitive price point.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14603503
> 
> 
> While 8 HDMI inputs is a first, the D2 v.2, at this point and not announced, doesn't have HD or Satellite Radio, iPod connectivity, streamed audio restoration, network streaming or firmware updating, any kind of "Dynamic EQ or Volume," 3 sub outputs, 5.1 Zone 2 outpus, etc.. convenience feature for some to be sure, but I don't think that you can say it is more feature complete than it's competitors products.
> 
> 
> So I think it still won't be competitive on the feature set against something like the Denon AVP..
> 
> 
> What it does have in spades is a great video solution (even if it is a new solution, the history of that product line speaks for itself), amazing customer support, a company that is willing to listen to users and solve issues in a timely manner, fairly deep tweak-ability, good build quality and the great Anthem sound at a fairly competitive price point.



It's all about the sound. The D2 is almost universally lauded for it's incredible sound quality. Entry-level reviews and high-end ones seem pretty consistent about the sound quality.


All the other stuff is tertiary. The main thing it was missing was 7.1 LPCM input over HDMI (I don't care a ton about the HD codecs, but it's nice to have since I trust Anthem to decode them more than any other device). And 8! HDMI inputs is a huge plus, and makes this a long-term keeper.


Anyway, I just need to find someone that I can buy it from. My dealer hasn't responded yet, and it's been a whole 36 hours!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14603580
> 
> 
> My dealer hasn't responded yet, and it's been a whole 36 hours!



OH NO







36 hours?


None of us can help you because we don't know

what Anthem region you are in


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14603654
> 
> 
> OH NO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 36 hours?
> 
> 
> None of us can help you because we don't know
> 
> what Anthem region you are in



Yes! 36 hours! So disrespectful...










I'm in MD/DC. There are a couple PDigm dealers, that I assume are also Anthem dealers. I really like my main guy, and he sold me my Sig 7.1 setup and my P5. So I'd like to give him the business, but I'll buy from anyone who says they can get me one by Turkey Day...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14603688
> 
> 
> but I'll buy from anyone who says they can get me one by Turkey Day...



Most Anthem dealers can't sell too far out of their region.


Turkey Day might be a problems since I think the v2 is

at least two months away.


You can try to talk Levesque into selling HIS to YOU


----------



## thebland

7.1 is the only feature of the upgrade that was neally needed. Sonically lpcm and bitstram are identical. So a fair amount of money for discrete 7.1 and more hdmi inputs. But Lexicon still can't do 7.1..


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14599230
> 
> 
> 1) I don't think it's the opposite of bass traps that you need. Instead you need bass traps that will prevent the reflections that are causing the standing waves at 30Hz -- i.e., causing the cancellation. But I can't really offer you any advice on that.
> 
> 
> 2) I don't know why your LF/RF speakers aren't showing the Room Gain that's showing up in the other speakers. They OUGHT to couple to the room the same way the other speakers are doing, but for some reason they seem to be weak across the region where the other speakers are showing the expected hump.
> 
> 
> 3) I think you should consider using the same mic locations you use for Movie. By the way, 30cm is under 12 inches from the #1 position to each of the other 4, that's definitely too close. You want at least 24 inches (61cm) between any 2 mic positions. Remember you are sampling the standing wave characteristics of the room, so it is not good to concentrate the mic positions too closely around your primary listening position. The mics have to be spaced to pick up the variations due to the standing waves.
> 
> 
> 4) I don't know why your LF/RF speakers are low in the region where ARC wants to put the hump in the target curve. I thought perhaps you might have added some room treatment specific to those speakers that was over-absorbing their output.
> 
> 
> 5) If you can't get rid of that 30Hz null, you need to avoid it. I think you will do better with the crossovers that ARC suggested. It looks to me like your subwoofer is better able to overpower that null than your main speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, you are the most important Anthem's asset.

At first, and it transpired in my questions, i didn't have a clue.

Thanks to you I ran ARC again, But this time time i respected a bigger distance between positions for the music profile.

Only then ARC have set a Room gain for Music.

And it sounds much better.

I am also thinking of solving the 30Hz drop somehow.

See my new results.

I also didn't touch the pre-determined target presets. Is that OK?


Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/14602781
> 
> 
> I had dinner with Kris Deering last night and we chatted about the Anthem for a bit.
> 
> 
> My interpretation of HDMI on the V2 was that apparently the 2 HDMI outputs can only be used 1 at a time (like a switcher) not simultaneously. The only other application I know of with 2 HDMI outs is the Lumagen Radiance that can send out 2 similtaneous, identical resolutions (and audio) _or_ send 1 video and the other audio only.
> 
> 
> Kris can correct me but that was how I understood things. There is no other processor I saw with so many features, inputs, etc.



My understanding from Nick at Anthem is that the two HDMI outputs of the v.2 *CAN* be used simultaneously, however they can not be configured separately -- they will both output the same resolution.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/14603828
> 
> 
> 7.1 is the only feature of the upgrade that was neally needed. Sonically lpcm and bitstram are identical. So a fair amount of money for discrete 7.1 and more hdmi inputs. But Lexicon still can't do 7.1..



The v.2 video solution also ups the internal video processing from 30 bits per pixel to 36 bits per pixel (all useful in the internal processing whether or not you are trying to take advantage of Deep Color input or output).


It adds the improved noise reduction of the new Sigma Designs VXP chip (the one real failing of the prior Gennum VXP chip per Kris Deering's analysis a year or so back).


It adds the automatic contrast adjustment -- although it is not clear how useful that will be yet.


It adds the enhanced color correction scheme of the new VXP chip -- again we need to see what this actually delivers.


Nick at Anthem says he thinks it likely that the new VXP chip will enable them to finally get 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 working completely correctly. He also thinks that horizontal squeeze will be added for CIH projector setup folks. [NOTE: Don't count chickens, etc. These will appear when they appear.]


It adds the latest cut at the HDMI V1.3 chips (in and out) -- V1.3c -- which even if you don't use any of the optional V1.3 features are *MUCH MORE ROBUST* in the face of cable flakiness. This comes from the *MUCH* stricter testing standards that came in starting with V1.3b and then again with V1.3c.


It adds support for Deep Color (announced) and xv.YCC (according to Nick) for folks who dote on that sort of thing.


Meanwhile on the audio side, I fully expect that the new DSP setup in the v.2 will allow Anthem to add additional audio processing features. I don't know where they will go with that or how fast, but I wouldn't be at all surprised to see some additional audio processing added (beyond bitstream decoding) which will be limited to v.2. That's a lot of DSP power they just added.


Should be fun to see what they do with it.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14604198
> 
> 
> 
> Should be fun to see what they do with it.
> 
> --Bob



Now come on BOB - when is YOUR v2 arriving.


If you don't have one of the FIRST - who is going

to WRITE about how it really works.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14602802
> 
> 
> thx for the insights.
> 
> when i did the current measurement, i had all speakers balanced to each other, at a pink noise setting of +4, with all speakers reading 74 db on a r/s meter set at '70' , slow weighting, etc. with the sub reading 73db as well. then, after the first pass, arc said it could not find the sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so, i increased the level and arc was happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . now, i find that arc has, post measurements, assigned a -3DB value to the sub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . (and, the sub is too boomy, needs work) But, the point is, when i had the sub properly set, arc could not 'find it'!
> 
> further to your comments;
> 
> the test noise level is +4db.
> 
> sub xover is set to mid range(prox80)
> 
> this sub has a boost control, ranging from '0' to /+6DB'. i have it set at +3DB.
> 
> walt



You need to disable the crossover inside the subwoofer, or if you can't do that you need to set it to the highest possible frequency to get it as much out of the way as possible.


Some subwoofers provide a separate input that bypasses the internal crossover in the sub.


The Anthem is doing crossover processing for you. You don't want the sub to be trying to do it as well.


I'll take a look at your charts a little later.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14599580
> 
> 
> It sounds like the picture in picture feature will not be available since both hdmi outputs will be outputting the same input. Is that a correct assumption? That's one feature I really miss now since it's football season again.



I *THINK* that's a correct assumption, but I'm not sure. The new Sigma Designs VXP chip has two independent video paths but I don't know if the new video board can take advantage of them. Keep in mind that you would also need two "Main" audio paths for this to work.


I'll be trying to get some details on which restrictions are basic to the design and which are simply due to limitations of the initial firmware release.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab

My dealer just got back to me... he'll check on Monday where I can get in the queue.


But he also said he likes the Denon AVP1HDCI slightly better. This was in e-mail, so I didn't get a conversation going (and for all I know he's got better margins on the Denon), but what's the opinion here from Anthem folks?


Thanks!

-Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14599734
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I have 2 specific questions about the D2V2:
> 
> 
> 1) will there be a difference in price between a D2 upgrade and a D2 which already has ARC? There should be.
> 
> 
> 2) My 80G PS3 has the capability to pass 5.1 channel SACD via HDMI at a very high bitrate, 176/24 (or something like that). However, the D2 is limited to receiving 96/24, and you end actually getting 88/24 (which apparently is appropriate given the DSD->PCM conversion). It was never clear to me whether that was an HDMI 1.1 issue or not, and I always thought the Anthem official position paper on HDMI was somewhat deceptive on this question. It sounds from the 192/24 stuff being thrown around, that the V2 will accept this higher rate multichannel PCM from my PS3. Is this true, for sure?
> 
> 
> dave



If I had to guess, the D2 v.2 upgrade price will *NOT* include ARC. I.e., you buy ARC separately, and if you already have it then you will just need to get the pair of licensing/calibration files from Anthem tech support to let it work with the new unit serial number that will come with the v.2 upgrade.


The NEW UNIT pricing for a D2 v.2 includes ARC (per the press release, and also per Anthem's current D2/ARC bundle pricing), but I suspect the v.2 upgrade will have ARC sold separately.


The thornier issue is for AVM-50/ARC customers who have already purchased one DSP upgrade.


A similar problem arises for folks who have paid for the AVM-30HD upgrade or the D1-HD upgrade.


I doubt that Anthem has reached any final decisions on pricing yet for any of these combos. The upgrade prices that have been quoted here so far may not be correct.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boe* /forum/post/14601479
> 
> 
> Did I miss the Estimated Time of Arrival on that new unit?



It looks like it's about 2 months if they don't run into a snag.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14601567
> 
> 
> The inability to output two different resolutions would be the second killer for me. I have my 1080p/24/60 capable projector, but everything else has a maximum 1080i/60 input resolution.
> 
> 
> I would not want to sacrifice my projector quality in order to meet the requirements of my other display sources.



With the CURRENT D2 and firmware you can set up multiple Video Output configurations.


For example you can have a 1080p/24 configuration and a 1080i/60 configuration.


You can setup overlayed source definitions (e.g. DVD1 and DVD2) to use different Video Output configurations. I.e., select DVD1 when you want to view 1080p/24 on your projector or DVD2 when you want to view 1080i/60. You can also switch between your established Video Output configurations on the fly via the remote.


I presume the v.2 will offer the same feature set except that you've now got 2 HDMI outputs live at the same time -- both using the same Video Output configuration.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14599835
> 
> 
> walt here. Wow. much ado since last i was here. exciting to be sure, but the deep color thing is what, years off for practical application? and, there is nothing included for picking the pebbles out of my tires
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> back to reality.
> 
> i am posting the fourth set of measurements, but, with questions.
> 
> (1) i compared charts b/4 and after changing the freq. range from 5K to 12K, and found the only change was in the center channel, and only at the 10K spot, and only a raise of maybe 5db. So, here is my question: do we need to preselect the range b/4 measuring? Or, can we, as i have done, measure at 5K, and THEN change the range to(12K) ? Should(will ) the results be different? Why?!
> 
> (2) note the sub line. what happened? all previous sub measurements have pretty much followed the target line. Now, I have the "bump".
> 
> (FYI) have moved the towers further out from the wall(now at the RIVES 20% distance) have also tuned the servo 15 to better agree with the towers sub woofers - (they are 8"ers, three per tower)
> 
> (perhaps i did a poor adjustment?! it's an audible thing, not a measured result)
> 
> Again, my appreciation.
> 
> walt



The most important thing you have to do is to disable the internal crossover inside your subwoofer, as I stated in my earlier post above. If you can't disable it entirely, turn it up to the highest possible frequency it offers to get it out of the way as much as possible.


Next, RAISE your Noise Level setting a few dB, and LOWER the volume knob on your sub by one or two notches to compensate. Your plan here should be to get ARC using a basic level (the flat part of the Target curves to the right of the "hump" around 75dB, while at the same time to get ARC assigning a subwoofer volume level within a few dB either side of 0dB.


You look like you've still got some boundary gain happening in the Left Front speaker (too close to a corner or wall?). I think that's more likely to be the source of any "boominess" you are hearing then the tiny bump in the subwoofer curve.


Other than that, things are looking better. I suspect you will get good results if you try a calculation with a 12KHz Max EQ Frequency Target.


----------



## ensmarcum

I love the D2, and I would love to get the upgrade but I am moving overseas and will not be taking my home theater with me. I know this isnt the classified area and everyone is very excited about the new upgrade but I need to sell my D2 and who better to sell it to than someone who knows about it and doesnt own one. So if you are interested in the D2 let me know. Sorry for the interruption.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14599861
> 
> 
> I also lost gain: went from 3.8+(three measurements) to 2+for this measurement(4th).
> 
> Is this an issue?



I don't think it's a problem. It looks to me like ARC decided your room had a little less Room Gain due to the peak in low bass measured from your front speakers (after the front speakers had already started to roll off normally).


This is still the biggest problem in your Measurments (once you figure out how to disable the crossover in your subwoofer). Those front speakers are producing too much bass or too little low mid-range. Some of it may be room coupling (front speakers too close to a corner or wall), but there may be something else going on here as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/14604521
> 
> 
> I love the D2, and I would love to get the upgrade but I am moving overseas and will not be taking my home theater with me. I know this isnt the classified area and everyone is very excited about the new upgrade but I need to sell my D2 and who better to sell it to than someone who knows about it and doesnt own one. So if you are interested in the D2 let me know. Sorry for the interruption.



Many folks use Audiogon to sell equipment in this price range:

http://www.audiogon.com/index.html 


------------------------------------


By the way, it's posts like this that really give me a chuckle when I read doom and gloom from other posters along the lines of, "You NEVER used to see used D2s for sale! [i.e, like early last year before the D2 had even been SHIPPING for a year] People must not LIKE them any more!"










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14604039
> 
> 
> Bob, you are the most important Anthem's asset.
> 
> At first, and it transpired in my questions, i didn't have a clue.
> 
> Thanks to you I ran ARC again, But this time time i respected a bigger distance between positions for the music profile.
> 
> Only then ARC have set a Room gain for Music.
> 
> And it sounds much better.
> 
> I am also thinking of solving the 30Hz drop somehow.
> 
> See my new results.
> 
> I also didn't touch the pre-determined target presets. Is that OK?
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



THAT'S the ticket! Things are looking much better for Music now.


I suggest you do a re-Calculation (no need to re-Measure) boosting Room Gain just for Music. I don't think you need to go up to the 4dB ARC found for Movie, but a little higher for Music would probably sound better to you. I suggest you try upping that Target from the current 1dB to around 2dB or perhaps 2.5 dB.


When you do that, keep an eye on the Calculated curves for Music, particularly near that Black Hole you have at 30Hz. If the Calculated curves get much worse there, then back off on that Room Gain.


Try Uploading that and see how it sounds.


If you find a solution for your 30Hz problem I think you'll get even better results, but what you have right now should be sounding very good indeed.


The crossovers ARC has chosen for you are working well. DO NOT lower the crossovers for the main speakers given your current problem at 30Hz. If you find a fix for that, I wouldn't be surprised if ARC lowered the crossovers for those itself for you. However it will likely still keep the sub crossover high because that helps solve some of the wobbles you've got in the main speakers in the low midrange.


ETA: I notice you dropped the Max EQ Frequency for Music from 20KHz to 16KHz, and that seems to be working better for you. Your residuals (difference between Calculated and Target) are quite small. If you find some problems when you add a bit more Room Gain to Music, you might discover that dropping the Max EQ Frequency a bit more frees up ARC resources so things look better. If so you can do a few calculations and find a compromise which lets you up the Music Room Gain a bit while still maintaining reasonable correction in the high frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14596550
> 
> 
> I am one of the few D2 users that actually likes and would use (if it worked correctly) the reverse function for the rears/surrounds for the 5.1 input. I like to use my direct radiating rears for SACD/DVDA (versus my ADP surrounds). Anthem is aware that the reverse function does not work correctly (and Nick has known for about 18 months), but has decided not to fix the programming because they feel that nobody really uses it. They actually will probably be dropping the function in the V2 upgrade.
> 
> 
> If they added the 7.1 analog inputs, then I could just route my surrounds from my 5.1 analog output to the rear analog input. That is what I did with my previous two processors that I used (Arcam 700 and Integra 9.8).



I too use the reverse function for surround music but was unaware that it did not function correctly. I also have direct radiating rear speakers in a 7.1 config.

Can someone please point me to the info regarding the details of the reverse function not working correctly?

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14604231
> 
> 
> Now come on BOB - when is YOUR v2 arriving.
> 
> 
> If you don't have one of the FIRST - who is going
> 
> to WRITE about how it really works.



I thought YOU were the one that always got these first? After LEVESQUE of course.


By the way, does this mean you are going to hold off even trying your new ARC kit until you can get a v.2?










--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/14603828
> 
> 
> But Lexicon still can't do 7.1..



As an Anthem owner it was sure fun to tell a Lexicon owner that we got 7.1 first.


What I also like about the Anthem is we have trust in one microphone, not four!


Justs having fun with those Lexicon owners that are reading this thread.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

XTRIPS,

It occurs to me that something you might want to try, just as an experiment, is to do a set of Measurements as if your primary listening seat location was shifted, say, 3 feet left or right of its current position.


It may just happen to be that your current listening position is in the worst possible location for that 30Hz room null. If you DO get better results, then the simplest solution might just be to move your seat.


That 3 feet is just a guess based on what I've seen with a 50Hz room null's variation across the length of a sofa (either side of center) -- I haven't tried actually doing the math to pick the "best" number to try. Some of the folks here who are more into room treatment issues may have a better idea of what to recommend.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14604711
> 
> 
> I thought YOU were the one that always got these first? After LEVESQUE of course.
> 
> 
> By the way, does this mean you are going to hold off even trying your new ARC kit until you can get a v.2?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



NO - With LUCK I should get ARC this week. I won't

WAIT because I can *NOT* order a v2 *UNTIL I GET A JOB.*


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14604533
> 
> 
> I don't think it's a problem. It looks to me like ARC decided your room had a little less Room Gain due to the peak in low bass measured from your front speakers (after the front speakers had already started to roll off normally).
> 
> 
> This is still the biggest problem in your Measurments (once you figure out how to disable the crossover in your subwoofer). Those front speakers are producing too much bass or too little low mid-range. Some of it may be room coupling (front speakers too close to a corner or wall), but there may be something else going on here as well.
> 
> --Bob



as always, thanks for the insights. no need to respond, just a fyi.

front speakers are 46", wall to cone from rear wall, 40" wall to ctr of cone from side walls. can move sub Xover to max freq, will do and remeasure.

pink noise setting was +4DB - will increase to a level which yields level 75DB for f/c/sub

whoops:question. do i MEASURE at 12K, or measure at 5K and adjust post measurement? does it matter?

regards,walt


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14604617
> 
> 
> THAT'S the ticket! Things are looking much better for Music now.
> 
> 
> I suggest you do a re-Calculation (no need to re-Measure) boosting Room Gain just for Music. I don't think you need to go up to the 4dB ARC found for Movie, but a little higher for Music would probably sound better to you. I suggest you try upping that Target from the current 1dB to around 2dB or perhaps 2.5 dB.
> 
> 
> When you do that, keep an eye on the Calculated curves for Music, particularly near that Black Hole you have at 30Hz. If the Calculated curves get much worse there, then back off on that Room Gain.
> 
> 
> Try Uploading that and see how it sounds.
> 
> 
> If you find a solution for your 30Hz problem I think you'll get even better results, but what you have right now should be sounding very good indeed.
> 
> 
> The crossovers ARC has chosen for you are working well. DO NOT lower the crossovers for the main speakers given your current problem at 30Hz. If you find a fix for that, I wouldn't be surprised if ARC lowered the crossovers for those itself for you. However it will likely still keep the sub crossover high because that helps solve some of the wobbles you've got in the main speakers in the low midrange.
> 
> 
> ETA: I notice you dropped the Max EQ Frequency for Music from 20KHz to 16KHz, and that seems to be working better for you. Your residuals (difference between Calculated and Target) are quite small. If you find some problems when you add a bit more Room Gain to Music, you might discover that dropping the Max EQ Frequency a bit more frees up ARC resources so things look better. If so you can do a few calculations and find a compromise which lets you up the Music Room Gain a bit while still maintaining reasonable correction in the high frequencies.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, here it is, following your advises (sort of).

As you can see I added 2.8 dB without compromising ARC's correction.

Is it enough or did you mean something like "the more room gain the better until i reach the level set by ARC for movie"?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14605753
> 
> 
> as always, thanks for the insights. no need to respond, just a fyi.
> 
> front speakers are 46", wall to cone from rear wall, 40" wall to ctr of cone from side walls. can move sub Xover to max freq, will do and remeasure.
> 
> pink noise setting was +4DB - will increase to a level which yields level 75DB for f/c/sub
> 
> whoops:question. do i MEASURE at 12K, or measure at 5K and adjust post measurement? does it matter?
> 
> regards,walt



The frequency setting has no effect on Measurements -- only on Calculations.


ARC sets all the Targets to what it thinks is best based on each set of Measurements. However the Max EQ Frequency limit is always set to the default value of 5KHz. By default, when ARC does its Calculations it stops applying corrections at the Max EQ Frequency. The 5KHz default setting is used to reduce the chance that you might be giving ARC garbage data to work with up there due to the greater directionality of high frequency audio from speakers. I.e., the different mic positions may be picking up variations in each speaker's uniform spread of treble frequencies rather than actual room effects.


In your case, the Measured curves look good enough already up there that ARC won't have to do much, and so it is probably safe to raise that limit a ways. Trust your ears. If it sounds better when you raise that, then it IS better, and vice versa.


--------------------------------------


If your front speakers have any built-in controls for bass or mid-range reproduction, you may need to think about adjusting them. For example one poster here was using front speakers that were actual combos of a speaker and a satellite subwoofer attached to that specific speaker. He had to correct his volume settings for those satellite subs to get better Measurements from his front speakers. This is the equivalent of having an improperly operating internal crossover between the mid-range and woofer of a given speaker.


Some speakers have "bass ports" that can be closed off if they are producing too much bass.

--Bob


----------



## boe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14604355
> 
> 
> It looks like it's about 2 months if they don't run into a snag.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14605760
> 
> 
> Ok, here it is, following your advises (sort of).
> 
> As you can see I added 2.8 dB without compromising ARC's correction.
> 
> Is it enough or did you mean something like "the more room gain the better until i reach the level set by ARC for movie"?
> 
> 
> Thanks



That looks fine. How does it sound? I think this is a setup you might want to live with for a while -- trying out some of your favorite stuff to see what you get.


Because you are not using the surrounds for Music, I see no need to boost the Room Gain for the fronts any higher (i.e, in an effort to match what the surrounds are seeing as the "natural" Room Gain for your room).


My guess would be that if you DO ever manage to tame your 30Hz Black Hole then ARC may find a slightly higher Room Gain for Music on its own -- or it might even LOWER the Room Gain it found for Movie. It's hard to predict.


In any event, we have at least one Music enthusiast here recommending Music Room Gain around 2.0, so that's another point of reference.


Personally I like going with what ARC detects on its own *UNLESS* you have a serious room problem (like you do) that's confusing ARC. In your case, right now I think you've gone about as far as you can with this until you figure out a way to tame the 30Hz problem.


I'll be interested to read your before/after listening reports. I suspect you may need some bouncy guys sent your way pretty soon!

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14604943
> 
> 
> As an Anthem owner it was sure fun to tell a Lexicon owner that we got 7.1 first.
> 
> 
> What I also like about the Anthem is we have trust in one microphone, not four!
> 
> 
> Justs having fun with those Lexicon owners that are reading this thread.



Funny you mention mics. Nick mentioned the other day that each microphone sent out with the ARC kit has been calibrated using their miniature anachoic chamber. Now that's quality control.

John


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14604943
> 
> 
> What I also like about the Anthem is we have trust in one microphone, not four!



When using four mics simultaneously (as THX does when calibrating movie theatres), the user is immediately alerted on-screen if one of the mics is giving results that are inconsistent with the rest, and the measurements from that mic are then ignored. Room correction can still proceed with up to 2 mics ignored/removed. So Michael, if that one mic you have so much trust in is damaged or thrown out of whack in any way during shipping or use, what mechanism lets you know that you're getting incorrect measurements from a faulty mic?


Sanjay


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/14606392
> 
> 
> When using four mics simultaneously (as THX does when calibrating movie theatres), the user is immediately alerted on-screen if one of the mics is giving results that are inconsistent with the rest, and the measurements from that mic are then ignored. Room correction can still proceed with up to 2 mics ignored/removed. So Michael, if that one mic you have so much trust in is damaged or thrown out of whack in any way during shipping or use, what mechanism lets you know that you're getting incorrect measurements from a faulty mic?
> 
> 
> Sanjay



I know that the Lexicon room correction is good, and just kidding about the four mikes. I like to get as many mikes in one room at a time. Oh wait that is mic, not mike.


I just love to get those trusty Lexicon owners to post in the Anthem thread.


Did Ray tell you about the room treatment that I want to try at my room?


Michael


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/14606392
> 
> 
> When using four mics simultaneously (as THX does when calibrating movie theatres), the user is immediately alerted on-screen if one of the mics is giving results that are inconsistent with the rest, and the measurements from that mic are then ignored. Room correction can still proceed with up to 2 mics ignored/removed. So Michael, if that one mic you have so much trust in is damaged or thrown out of whack in any way during shipping or use, what mechanism lets you know that you're getting incorrect measurements from a faulty mic?
> 
> 
> Sanjay



Ah, OK. Darn those 50% failure rates! I hate it when that happens!


Umm, how does it tell which pair of mics are right and which pair are wrong?


And how does it tell if 3 of the mics are wrong and only 1 is right?











By the way, ARC also includes sanity checks for faulty Measurements (bad mic or too much ambient noise) and for too much variation between Measurement positions.

--Bob


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14606460
> 
> 
> I know that the Lexicon room correction is good, and just kidding about the four mikes.



Likewise, I was kidding about the single mic (but you can still answer the question).


> Quote:
> _
> 
> Did Ray tell you about the room treatment that I want to try at my room?_



You mean the Integra 9.9 ?


Sanjay


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14606540
> 
> 
> Darn those 50% failure rates! I hate it when that happens!



Well, with a single mic, any failure would be 100%.


> Quote:
> _Umm, how does it tell which pair of mics are right and which pair are wrong?
> 
> 
> And how does it tell if 3 of the mics are wrong and only 1 is right?_



The 4 mics are bundled together for a mic check (prior to being spread apart for room measurement). This is when the system checks for things like unusually low signal, too little ambient/background noise, phase problems, etc. It's a step specifically to check the mics, separate from measuring the room, and there indeed have been times when the display asked me to check 3 out of the 4 mics.


Not perfect, but certainly more reliable than a single mic. Or do you believe that there are absolutely zero advantages to using more than one mic?


Sanjay


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/14606648
> 
> 
> Likewise, I was kidding about the single mic (but you can still answer the question). You mean the Integra 9.9 ?
> 
> 
> Sanjay



No, that is not it.


I am still upset about the AVM50 getting what the D2 is getting, so I am really thinking that I will get the 9.9 to hold me over tell the next Lexicon comes out.


Michael


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/14606798
> 
> 
> Or do you believe that there are absolutely zero advantages to using more than one mic?
> 
> 
> Sanjay



All kidding aside, more than one mic gives you more flexibility, no doubt about it. Faster capture speed as well. Although, I'm not sure how Anthem could introduce a similar quality multi-mic version while still having the audio capture happen in a PC (i.e, you aren't paying for mic inputs on the Anthem itself).


Nevertheless, the ultimate test is the result. If ARC produces good sounding results it is highly unlikely the mic is broken. You also get to see the charts which should give you a pretty good handle on whether the mic is actually broken.


The way these mics work, I don't think mic failures are going to be subtle.


Bottom line: Don't worry. If it sounds good it IS good.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

Bob,


Can you run ARC 1.2.5 if you didn't load the two files over from the original set up? I do not think I did that when I ran 1.2.5 last time, which might lead to why I was not happy with the results.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14607177
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Can you run ARC 1.2.5 if you didn't load the two files over from the original set up? I do not think I did that when I ran 1.2.5 last time, which might lead to why I was not happy with the results.



No. If you don't have the pair of licensing/calibration files in the right place the ARC Windows application will refuse to do either Measurements or Uploads. Once the files are in the right place, they are preserved over subsequent ARC installs.


As long as you didn't change ARC mics, the licensing/calibration files must have been there and been correct. [If you DID change ARC mics, then that's something we need to discuss.]


------------------------------------


However, there are other mistakes you can make that will produce bad results. Probably the most common mistake is not following the guidelines for choosing the mic positions for Measurement.


You've seen us go through this exercise with ARC charts from others here.


The bottom line is that if you are not getting OUTSTANDING results, then something is wrong. In many cases, we can help here. If you've got an unusual case you need to get on to Anthem tech support so they can help you out and also improve the product.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/14606798
> 
> 
> Not perfect, but certainly more reliable than a single mic. Or do you believe that there are absolutely zero advantages to using more than one mic?
> 
> 
> Sanjay



I would rather have one quality mic than multiple crappy mics.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/14607413
> 
> 
> I would rather have one quality mic than multiple crappy mics.



mlbrand,


What is your proof or documentation that the lexicon are bad mics?


Lets play nice, I am friends with Sanjay, and this was me just having some fun with him.


Michael


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Now, now. Don't tease the poor Lexicon owners. They have enough on their minds as is....











By the by, I was a happy Lexicon owner for years. I wish it were possible to get these companies working together to combine the best efforts of each. Of course I don't know who would pay for all that....

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14607490
> 
> 
> mlbrand,
> 
> 
> What is your proof or documentation that the lexicon are bad mics?
> 
> 
> Lets play nice, I am friends with Sanjay, and this was me just having some fun with him.
> 
> 
> Michael



Take no offense, note the







, I'm just poking a little fun too!


I'm sure Lexicon mics are absolutely fine. However, one could ask what is the failure rate of any of these mics, and how often is having three backups a benefit? There may be a measurement benefit, but for backup purposes it seems like tremendous overkill.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/14607537
> 
> 
> Take no offense, note the
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I'm just poking a little fun too!
> 
> 
> I'm sure Lexicon mics are absolutely fine. However, one could ask what is the failure rate of any of these mics, and how often is having three backups a benefit? There may be a measurement benefit, but for backup purposes it seems like tremendous overkill.



The thing is, if you are using multiple mics it is ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL that you start off with a mic comparison pass before you try to combine results from them. This insures you are seeing any manufacturing differences between the mics -- which, if large enough, could even invalidate a mic for this purpose.


In addition, if there is any overall gain variation in any given mic over time, it's not a problem if you use the same mic for all measurements. But if you are using DIFFERENT mics together you need to capture that variation at the start -- before you measure.


But that's not really the problem.


For most mics the big difference is what comes out of manufacturing. If you calibrate the mics at that point then you've captured this key information. That's the way Anthem handles it. Each mic comes with its own, individually generated, calibration file. Variation after that -- short of the mic breaking altogether -- should be minor.

--Bob


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/14607537
> 
> 
> There may be a measurement benefit, but for backup purposes it seems like tremendous overkill.



They are for simultaneous measurement, backup/reliability is a bonus (with multiples of anything, not just mics). Overkill? Nah, just the company's studio/pro roots influencing their consumer line.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14607490
> 
> 
> Lets play nice, I am friends with Sanjay, and this was me just having some fun with him.



No worries; they are playing nice.


Sanjay


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14607134
> 
> 
> Bottom line: Don't worry. If it sounds good it IS good.
> 
> --Bob



OH NO - Why say that Bob










Mine sounds good without ARC.


Should I cancel my ORDER


----------



## ASW

This morning I had no audio from HDMI 1 on my D2 (where my Tivo S3 is connected). As of last night, all was fine.


The Tivo works fine (audio and video) in HDMI 3, so it does not seem like an HDMI cable issue. I also have audio using an optical input (right now I left the Tivo in HDMI 1 with digital audio set to the optical input).


I tried my PS3 in HDMI 1 and got no audio OR video.


Any thoughts other than a suddenly bad HDMI jack on the D2 (kind of annoying since this is a pretty new video board).


----------



## bluemark81

Just read this article from Cedia. http://blog.hometheatermag.com/cedia...ts_an_upgrade/ 


Do you think this will be an ugrade available to current AVM50/D2 owners?


----------



## jayray

Yes, all info from Nick indicates the AVM50 and D2 can be upgraded to V2.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14609208
> 
> 
> This morning I had no audio from HDMI 1 on my D2 (where my Tivo S3 is connected). As of last night, all was fine.
> 
> 
> The Tivo works fine (audio and video) in HDMI 3, so it does not seem like an HDMI cable issue. I also have audio using an optical input (right now I left the Tivo in HDMI 1 with digital audio set to the optical input).
> 
> 
> I tried my PS3 in HDMI 1 and got no audio OR video.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts other than a suddenly bad HDMI jack on the D2 (kind of annoying since this is a pretty new video board).



Try a full power cycle of the Anthem -- i.e, using the back panel switch. It's a long shot but there are ways that the HDMI chip can become unresponsive which a power cycle will fix.


If that doesn't do it, there's nothing for it but to call Anthem tech support about replacing your new video board.


------------------------------------


We had one poster here say that there are two HDMI controllers. One for sockets 1 and 2 and the other for sockets 3 and 4. I don't know if that's correct. But if you ALSO don't have working HDMI on socket 2 then that would be further evidence that you've had a hardware failure inside the video board (as opposed to a socket problem).


If you've been moving around the cables. Get a flashlight and check the plugs and sockets to see if you can spot any pin damage.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14609258
> 
> 
> Just read this article from Cedia. http://blog.hometheatermag.com/cedia...ts_an_upgrade/
> 
> 
> Do you think this will be an ugrade available to current AVM50/D2 owners?



Great job spotting that article! This is our first chance to see the BACK panel of the new D2 v.2!











Looks like the AM/FM connectors were moved down into the unused area that had been labeled "Expansion Ports". That's a small, separate, shielded box with a small cable attached. The box is mounted to the back panel. So they've moved it into the open air space below the video board. Meanwhile the single HDMI out and the 4 HDMI in sockets -- which were surface mounted to the video board, have each been replaced by double-height dual sockets. It looks like there are some extra back panel screws near the upper HDMI sockets to mechanically secure those to the back panel.


As expected, there are no other changes to the back panel.


One interesting item in this article I hadn't picked up on before is that the new HDMI V1.3c ports support not only 7.1, but *192KHz* input! This is going to be very interesting indeed to some users. Up to now the D2 allowed only up to 96KHz input and then upsampled that to 192KHz. I just checked back in Anthem's official press release, and yes indeed, it does confirm that the inputs will accept up to 192KHz!


Now the AVM-50, again up to now, has *NOT* had internal audio processing above 96KHz (i.e., it accepted or upsampled audio to 96KHz, but did not accept above that). It will be interesting to find out if the AVM-50 v.2 has ALSO been bumped up to 192KHz internally. Just guessing, but I think not, since that would mean they would ALSO have to replace the analog output stage of the AVM-50. I.e., the DACs in the AVM-50 are for 96KHz.


=============================


We've been discussing this new version and the upgrades a lot over the past 4 or 5 pages. Scan back a ways and you'll find out all we know at the moment.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14609305
> 
> 
> Yes, all info from Nick indicates the AVM50 and D2 can be upgraded to V2.
> 
> John



Any idea what pricing will be and when it will be available?


----------



## jayray

Seems safe to say that the pricing for the AVM 50 will be around $2500 and D2 around $2000. Availablility for the upgrade likely same as when the V2 models will be shipping, ie. apprx. 2 months from now.

John


----------



## Ed Weinman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14609490
> 
> 
> Seems safe to say that the pricing for the AVM 50 will be around $2500 and D2 around $2000. Availablility for the upgrade likely same as when the V2 models will be shipping, ie. apprx. 2 months from now.
> 
> John



...I wonder what the price would be to go from the D1 to the D2.2 version upgrade(s)...or would I have to first get the D2 upgrade prior to the 2.2...


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14609420
> 
> 
> Up to now the D2 allowed only up to 96KHz input and then upsampled that to 192KHz. I just checked back in Anthem's official press release, and yes indeed, it does confirm that the inputs will accept up to 192KHz!



Now we just need more 192k source (I think there is one 192k PCM title out now).










Bob, was this also due to a DAC change or just the newer HDMI part?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14609880
> 
> 
> Now we just need more 192k source (I think there is one 192k PCM title out now).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob, was this also due to a DAC change or just the newer HDMI part?



I assume the limitation up to now has been the HDMI input chips. The DAC in the D2 has always handled 192KHz.


The PS3 will already output up to 176KHz. They upsample CDs to that if you want, and the SACD capable PS3s also make use of that. With the current D2 the PS3 stops at 88KHz since it doesn't offer 96KHz as an output option. PS3 audio users have considered the 96KHz input limit on the current D2 as a negative.


I suspect that optical and EBU input (e.g for DTS/CD discs) will still be limited to 24-bit/96KHz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/14609646
> 
> 
> ...I wonder what the price would be to go from the D1 to the D2.2 version upgrade(s)...or would I have to first get the D2 upgrade prior to the 2.2...



My guess is that you will win big this time. I don't think there's anything in the original D1 to D1-HD upgrade that's needed to make a D1 to D2 v.2 upgrade work. So you may only have to pay for just the new v.2 upgrade.


It may be a little more expensive than for a D2 customer going to D2 v.2 if they need minor parts such as the extra power cables that wouldn't already be in a D1, but it shouldn't be anything close to having to purchase both upgrades together.


Unfortunately the customers who have already upgraded to D1-HD (or AVM-30HD) likely won't see any price benefit from that. My guess is that Anthem will charge them full ticket for the new upgrade to v.2. Such is life.


All this is just speculation of course. Anthem really wants to get these upgrades out there, so we may see some aggressive pricing. But keep in mind that the video board is, by far, the single most expensive replaceable component in the system, so the upgrade is not going to be priced like the ARC upgrade no matter what.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14610005
> 
> 
> I assume the limitation up to now has been the HDMI input chips. The DAC in the D2 has always handled 192KHz.
> 
> 
> The PS3 will already output up to 176KHz. They upsample CDs to that if you want, and the SACD capable PS3s also make use of that. With the current D2 the PS3 stops at 88KHz since it doesn't offer 96KHz as an output option. PS3 audio users have considered the 96KHz input limit on the current D2 as a negative.
> 
> 
> I suspect that optical and EBU input (e.g for DTS/CD discs) will still be limited to 24-bit/96KHz.
> 
> --Bob



According to some Sony engineers who were quoted in some article I read on the internet in '07, they devoted considerable resources towards maximizing the quality of the Cell's conversion of DSD to 176kHz PCM. So those of use who own SACD capable PS3's would like to be able take advantage of this. (88kHz is half of 176, which I believe is why the PS3 sends 88 and not 96 to the 96kHz limited D2).


Thanks for the confirmation Bob, I always assumed the issue was the HDMI 1.1 chips also.


Now if I only could find a way to muffle that 80G fan noise


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/14609646
> 
> 
> ...I wonder what the price would be to go from the D1 to the D2.2 version upgrade(s)...or would I have to first get the D2 upgrade prior to the 2.2...



Ed,

I'm afraid I don't know about that kind of pricing.

John


----------



## TREVLAN

this is getting interesting really. I just spent 800 bucks on the ARC upgrade on my AVM50, not bad but it came with new DSP.

This new V2 will cost me around $2500 to add. Ouch.

But then agani untill I know more I guess I can't say much. But just looking at the overall.

The AVM50 retails for what $5000? thne $2500 for the v2 upgrade and $800 for ARC thats. $8500. But to buy the D2v2 and then add ARC your looking at $8000 plus $400. Something doesn't seem right or again I'm not reading this all correctly.


Just seems to rich for me I guess. I don't need 7.1 and I don't need the avm50 to decode the new HD sounds my PS3 seems to do this just fine.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14610071
> 
> 
> Unfortunately the customers who have already upgraded to D1-HD (or AVM-30HD) likely won't see any price benefit from that. My guess is that Anthem will charge them full ticket for the new upgrade to v.2. Such is life.
> 
> 
> All this is just speculation of course. Anthem really wants to get these upgrades out there, so we may see some aggressive pricing. But keep in mind that the video board is, by far, the single most expensive replaceable component in the system, so the upgrade is not going to be priced like the ARC upgrade no matter what.
> 
> --Bob



I am hoping for the aggressive pricing...the longer term owners of the Statement line (D1-HD) who have supported the upgrades all along should be given a chance to get special pricing early on in the process. Actually, all current owners of the D2 or D1-HD (supposedly equivalent units) should be given a period of time at a discounted rate.


That is normally the process in the industry - you reward your current owners by offering an early buy-in incentive program.


Does anyone know if the upgrade will require shipping back to Anthem, or will local dealers be able to perform the upgrade?


Thanks!


Mike


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14613525
> 
> 
> Do anyone know if the upgrade will require shipping back to Anthem, or will local dealers be able to perform the upgrade?



Based on the description of what gets replaced (video board, back panel, HDMI system) I imagine it could *only* be done at the factory.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Please lets not get too caught up in critiquing the value and costs of the upgrades until the actual costs are announced.


I work in a computer room. At end of life with servers, routers, and storage, which usually five years if we get 15% trade in that is really good. Actually any trade in is unusual. I know consumer electronics are not really the same but they both have power cords. 


I have not been comparing with other vendors but does anyone else really offer anything close to what we have seen so far with the D1 to D1-HD for example? Am I missing something?


----------



## EL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14610005
> 
> 
> I assume the limitation up to now has been the HDMI input chips. The DAC in the D2 has always handled 192KHz.
> 
> 
> The PS3 will already output up to 176KHz. They upsample CDs to that if you want, and the SACD capable PS3s also make use of that. With the current D2 the PS3 stops at 88KHz since it doesn't offer 96KHz as an output option. PS3 audio users have considered the 96KHz input limit on the current D2 as a negative.
> 
> 
> I suspect that optical and EBU input (e.g for DTS/CD discs) will still be limited to 24-bit/96KHz.
> 
> --Bob



most likely again the dual Motorola DSP are the bottleneck for higher sampling rate the same way they are for the 6 channel input limitation.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14609394
> 
> 
> Try a full power cycle of the Anthem -- i.e, using the back panel switch. It's a long shot but there are ways that the HDMI chip can become unresponsive which a power cycle will fix.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't do it, there's nothing for it but to call Anthem tech support about replacing your new video board.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> We had one poster here say that there are two HDMI controllers. One for sockets 1 and 2 and the other for sockets 3 and 4. I don't know if that's correct. But if you ALSO don't have working HDMI on socket 2 then that would be further evidence that you've had a hardware failure inside the video board (as opposed to a socket problem).
> 
> 
> If you've been moving around the cables. Get a flashlight and check the plugs and sockets to see if you can spot any pin damage.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob:


HDMI 2-4 work fine - it is just 1 that is a problem. I will try a power cycle. I had not moved any cables before my audio died (it is too hard to get to them behind my rack even if I wanted to).


I have an email into Nick so I will see what he says. Maybe this will be a good excuse to upgrade to v.2 when it is available.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/14613617
> 
> 
> Based on the description of what gets replaced (video board, back panel, HDMI system) I imagine it could *only* be done at the factory.



The video board has the HDMI jacks built into it, so AI would be surprised if there is any change to the back panel other than replacing the video board. I suspect the upgrade will be fairly easy from a mechanical standpoint.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14614824
> 
> 
> The video board has the HDMI jacks built into it, so AI would be surprised if there is any change to the back panel other than replacing the video board. I suspect the upgrade will be fairly easy from a mechanical standpoint.



Looking at the back of D2-V.2 it will require a new back plate, so there will be more required than "just" replacing the video board - the antenna inputs also need to move to a location just below the HDMI inputs, versus where they now sit above the HDMI inputs.


Regarding the lack of a 7.1 analog input. Could they configure the programming to allow one of the 2-channel analog inputs to be designated as "rear" input in a 7.1 configuration within the setup menu selection? This would allow the use of a 7.1 analog output without having to make room for additional RCA input jacks.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/14604708
> 
> 
> I too use the reverse function for surround music but was unaware that it did not function correctly. I also have direct radiating rear speakers in a 7.1 config.
> 
> Can someone please point me to the info regarding the details of the reverse function not working correctly?
> 
> Thanks.



Please see post #14865 on page 496 of this thread. If you want more details please PM me and I can send you some additional information on tests that I ran to figure out what the problem was on my unit. Maybe mine (a D1-HD) is messed up and maybe the D2 has this corrected....


Mike


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14615579
> 
> 
> Looking at the back of D2-V.2 it will require a new back plate, so there will be more required than "just" replacing the video board - the antenna inputs also need to move to a location just below the HDMI inputs, versus where they now sit above the HDMI inputs.
> 
> 
> Regarding a 7.1 analog input. Could they configure the programming to allow one of the 2-channel analog inputs to be designated as "rear" input in a 7.1 configuration within the setup menu selection? This would allow the use of a 7.1 analog output without having to make room for additional RCA input jacks.



It's not exactly clear to me, but based on the photo ( http://blog.hometheatermag.com/cedia...ts_an_upgrade/ ), the V2 will not have 8 channel analogue inputs?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *b curry* /forum/post/14615791
> 
> 
> It's not exactly clear to me, but based on the photo ( http://blog.hometheatermag.com/cedia...ts_an_upgrade/ ), the V2 will not have 8 channel analogue inputs?



With 7.1 LPCM and bitstreaming, what's the use-case for 8-channel analog in?


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14615841
> 
> 
> With 7.1 LPCM and bitstreaming, what's the use-case for 8-channel analog in?



Per discussion I had a few months ago with Nick at Anthem they are planning to eliminate the the reverse surround/rears function for the 5.1 analog input.


There are a few of us that actually want to make use of that function (although it does not exactly work the way it is suppossed to and Anthem has decided not to correct the problem - see post #14865 on page 496 of this thread) and we typically have dipoles for the surrounds and direct radiating rears and like to use the rears for SACD and DVDA.


If Anthem gets rid of the reverse function a 7.1 analog input would allow use to take the analog surround output from our SACD / DVDA player and input it to the rear input and accomplish the same thing.


I don't want to have to spend lots of cash to replace my SACD / DVDA with one that allows LPCM output through HDMI - none exist that have really good sound and are economical to purchase.


Thanks!


Mike


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/14613617
> 
> 
> Based on the description of what gets replaced (video board, back panel, HDMI system) I imagine it could *only* be done at the factory.



Plus, they have to silk-screen all the new logos on the front.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14616108
> 
> 
> Per discussion I had a few months ago with Nick at Anthem they are planning to eliminate the the reverse surround/rears function for the 5.1 analog input.
> 
> 
> There are a few of us that actually want to make use of that function (although it does not exactly work the way it is suppossed to and Anthem has decided not to correct the problem - see post #14865 on page 496 of this thread) and we typically have dipoles for the surrounds and direct radiating rears and like to use the rears for SACD and DVDA.
> 
> 
> If Anthem gets rid of the reverse function a 7.1 analog input would allow use to take the analog surround output from our SACD / DVDA player and input it to the rear input and accomplish the same thing.
> 
> 
> I don't want to have to spend lots of cash to replace my SACD / DVDA with one that allows LPCM output through HDMI - none exist that have really good sound and are economical to purchase.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Mike



Gotcha. I've got the same - ADP sides and direct rears. However I don't do any 5-channel music listening on my 7.1 setup except from BD/HDDVD. But I understand your point.


It would seem they could keep 5.1 analog input if they let you map the side/rears the way you want? That should resolve the issue, right?


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14616237
> 
> 
> Gotcha. I've got the same - ADP sides and direct rears. However I don't do any 5-channel music listening on my 7.1 setup except from BD/HDDVD. But I understand your point.
> 
> 
> It would seem they could keep 5.1 analog input if they let you map the side/rears the way you want? That should resolve the issue, right?



From my persprective it would resolve the issue. The reverse funtion does "work"; however, it has glitches in terms of defaulting to a processing mode when you swith to 6-CH input that forces the sound back to the surrounds instead of just a standard 5.1 analog DSP as selected in the setup.


Anthem was made aware of the problem when I communicated with Nick over two years ago and they were able to duplicate it on the D1 at their facilities. It was not fixed in the D2 and still exists in the latest software.


If they would fix the glitches in this function and keep it, then the 7.1 need would go away for me.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## dschamis

I must admit, the D2v2 has me very perplexed.


Firstly, let me say that I have a 7.1 system and I'm using a 3-chip 1080p projector, so I think that I would have some immediate audio and video benefits - I THINK.


When I initially read about the upgrade I was ready to call my dealer to fork over the $2k without even thinking twice. But then I did think twice.


The issue really is that this does not seem like a major upgrade (likely why they didn't call it the D3), and when I take a step back and ask myself what will this really give me, I am not blown away.


I think that people always overestimate the importance of rear speakers (whether we're talking about 2 or 4) - the Anthem does a fine job in converting a 5.1 input to a 7.1 system. Is it perfect? No, but is that really worth $2k versus just waiting for the next model?


Obviously none of us know how good the new video processor is. If we find out that this makes 480i look like 720p, $2k is a steal and I will be first in line, but chances are this will be a modest improvement for 480i DVDs, a small or no improvement for 1080i/720p and zero improvement or 1080p. All that is nice, but is it really worth $2k, when I think what I have right now is amazing?


I know this sounds dumb, but I am pretty disappointed that they stuck with this crappy serial port. ARC is a very important part of the Anthem story. You would think that if they were going to the trouble of adding 5 HDMI ports they could add either USB or ethernet to replace the serial. It probably doesn't really matter, but its just a turn off. How nice would it be to be able to change the settings via a web interface rather than messing around with the OSD? My guess is that this will be replaced on the D3.


So someone please argue with me. I'm happy to spend the money if I feel good about it, and knowing how I am I will likely be putting an order in by the end of the week, despite what I wrote above.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/14616495
> 
> 
> I must admit, the D2v2 has me very perplexed.
> 
> 
> Firstly, let me say that I have a 7.1 system and I'm using a 3-chip 1080p projector, so I think that I would have some immediate audio and video benefits - I THINK.
> 
> 
> When I initially read about the upgrade I was ready to call my dealer to fork over the $2k without even thinking twice. But then I did think twice.
> 
> 
> The issue really is that this does not seem like a major upgrade (likely why they didn't call it the D3), and when I take a step back and ask myself what will this really give me, I am not blown away.
> 
> 
> I think that people always overestimate the importance of rear speakers (whether we're talking about 2 or 4) - the Anthem does a fine job in converting a 5.1 input to a 7.1 system. Is it perfect? No, but is that really worth $2k versus just waiting for the next model?
> 
> 
> Obviously none of us know how good the new video processor is. If we find out that this makes 480i look like 720p, $2k is a steal and I will be first in line, but chances are this will be a modest improvement for 480i DVDs, a small or no improvement for 1080i/720p and zero improvement or 1080p. All that is nice, but is it really worth $2k, when I think what I have right now is amazing?
> 
> 
> I know this sounds dumb, but I am pretty disappointed that they stuck with this crappy serial port. ARC is a very important part of the Anthem story. You would think that if they were going to the trouble of adding 5 HDMI ports they could add either USB or ethernet to replace the serial. It probably doesn't really matter, but its just a turn off. How nice would it be to be able to change the settings via a web interface rather than messing around with the OSD? My guess is that this will be replaced on the D3.
> 
> 
> So someone please argue with me. I'm happy to spend the money if I feel good about it, and knowing how I am I will likely be putting an order in by the end of the week, despite what I wrote above.



For a new purchaser, like me, this makes it a no-brainer.


If I had one, I can't imagine I wouldn't do the upgrade. But I'm frivolous that way. With a 3-chip DLP, I'm thinking you might be, too?


$2K is nothing for this functionality.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14616522
> 
> 
> For a new purchaser, like me, this makes it a no-brainer.
> 
> 
> If I had one, I can't imagine I wouldn't do the upgrade. But I'm frivolous that way. With a 3-chip DLP, I'm thinking you might be, too?
> 
> 
> $2K is nothing for this functionality.



No question about it - I am frivolous (and lots of other adjectives), but I do try to control myself when I can. On whether $2k makes sense or not, I try to apply the 'wife test'. In other words, after I spend the $2k, set it all up and bring my wife down to look at it, would she even notice? Upgrading from a 50" to a 65" plasma? Yes. 1-chip versus 3-chip? I think so. D2 versus D2v2? I'm still trying to assess!


I completely agree of course, for a new buyer this is a no-brainer.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14614824
> 
> 
> The video board has the HDMI jacks built into it, so AI would be surprised if there is any change to the back panel other than replacing the video board. I suspect the upgrade will be fairly easy from a mechanical standpoint.



We already know what's changing on the back panel. There's a photo back a page or so. The AM/FM connections are moved to new holes below the video board and additional holes are added for the new HDMI sockets.


So the old back panel has to be removed and replaced (which essentially means removing all the boards first), and then it gets put back together with the AM/FM metal shielded capsule in the new position and with the DSP and video boards replaced. I suspect most of the internal cabling gets reused.


Since so much of the unit gets touched in the process -- pretty much everything except for the front panel connections -- they really should do a full testing cycle on it at that point to make sure no problems were introduced in the re-cabling for example. And that's the main reason this needs to be done at the factory since dealers won't have the necessary test rigs.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *b curry* /forum/post/14615791
> 
> 
> It's not exactly clear to me, but based on the photo ( http://blog.hometheatermag.com/cedia...ts_an_upgrade/ ), the V2 will not have 8 channel analogue inputs?



That is correct. 7.1 input in the D2 v.2 is limited to the 8 HDMI inputs. The multi-channel analog input remains 5.1.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/14616495
> 
> 
> I must admit, the D2v2 has me very perplexed.
> 
> 
> Firstly, let me say that I have a 7.1 system and I'm using a 3-chip 1080p projector, so I think that I would have some immediate audio and video benefits - I THINK.



We've been saying all along that the current D2 is the cat's pajamas, and not at all obsolete, so why should you be surprised that an upgrade only adds marginal benefits?


Since you have a 7.1 speaker system, I think you will find some value in the 7.1 inputs. Upping from 96KHz to 192KHz input may also be useful with some sources. I think you will also find value in the increase to 36 bit internal video processing -- perhaps even more so if your display accepts Deep Color bit depth video inputs. This is particularly true if you are using the Anthem to correct for defects in your display (e.g. Gamma Correction). And of course if you have lots of sources then the extra inputs are a win.


But the current D2 does a great job, and if you don't see a need to do the upgrade yet, then just wait. People who do upgrade will undoubtedly be reporting their experiences here and you can get more info that way.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14612770
> 
> 
> this is getting interesting really. I just spent 800 bucks on the ARC upgrade on my AVM50, not bad but it came with new DSP.
> 
> This new V2 will cost me around $2500 to add. Ouch.
> 
> But then agani untill I know more I guess I can't say much. But just looking at the overall.
> 
> The AVM50 retails for what $5000? thne $2500 for the v2 upgrade and $800 for ARC thats. $8500. But to buy the D2v2 and then add ARC your looking at $8000 plus $400. Something doesn't seem right or again I'm not reading this all correctly.
> 
> 
> Just seems to rich for me I guess. I don't need 7.1 and I don't need the avm50 to decode the new HD sounds my PS3 seems to do this just fine.



The pricing for a new D2 v.2 unit *INCLUDES* ARC so the pricing inversion you've found is even worse.


You might want to consider selling your AVM-50/ARC and buying a new D2 v.2 rather than doing the upgrade -- unless of course Anthem manages to come up with a more attractive upgrade price than the speculative numbers we are using here. If you are thinking about putting that much now into the upgrade then putting in some more to step all the way up to the D2 v.2 might be less painful.


By the way, it wouldn't surprise me if we find out the upgrade price for AVM-50 to AVM-50 v.2 customers *INCLUDES* ARC, with a (probably $400) price break for current AVM-50/ARC owners. And even if it doesn't, the ARC upgrade pricing for an AVM-50 v.2 is more likely going to be only $399 since the DSPs are already replaced as part of the v.2 upgrade.


ETA: The new Anthem price sheet detailing all these possibilities is going to be kind of complicated! I wouldn't be at all surprised if we don't see accurate pricing info until minutes before the stuff actually becomes orderable. Remember that with ARC (a much simpler problem), Anthem dealers and even Anthem reps were quoting ARC prices that turned out to be too high right up to the week before ordering got turned on. Presumably they figured it was safer to "guess" high and have the actual price turn out to be lower than the other way around.


ETA 2: It also wouldn't surprise me if, notwithstanding Anthem's best efforts, new D2 v.2 units ship some time before new AVM-50 v.2 units ship, and new units of either of them ship before upgrades are turned on for either of them. So selling an existing AVM-50/ARC and buying a new D2 v.2 may also turn out to be the FASTEST path to nirvana. My guess would also be that some Anthem dealers will offer attractive trade-in terms to encourage just that! Keep in mind that Anthem dealers have a built-in advantage re-selling used Anthem units in that they are authorized to transfer any remaining warranty to the new purchaser.


ETA 3: The $7900 price in the Anthem press release for a new D2 v.2 is "estimated". Kind of weird to see that wording in a press release but there it is. I wouldn't be at all surprised to find the ACTUAL price for a new D2 v.2 (including ARC) turns out to be a little lower when it finally ships -- perhaps $7500. I doubt it will be higher than $7900, but nothing's finalized until it actually ships.

--Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck

After a delay at customs....my ARC-1 kit is at the dealer and waiting. Stopping by on the way home from work to get my new DSP chip installed....then home to reload the firmware, reconnect, etc....


ETA - I ordered on Aug. 18th. It shipped on Sept. 2nd. Received in Falls Church, VA on Sept. 8th.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14617895
> 
> 
> After a delay at customs....my ARC-1 kit is at the dealer and waiting. Stopping by on the way home from work to get my new DSP chip installed....then home to reload the firmware, reconnect, etc....
> 
> 
> ETA - I ordered on Aug. 18th. It shipped on Sept. 2nd. Received in Falls Church, VA on Sept. 8th.



Double check that the kit you are given matches the serial number of your AVM-50 before you leave the store. And yes, even if you already have V1.3 firmware installed you need to RE-install V1.3 after the new DSP board is put in to get it properly recognized.


Have fun!

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14615648
> 
> 
> Please see post #14865 on page 496 of this thread. If you want more details please PM me and I can send you some additional information on tests that I ran to figure out what the problem was on my unit. Maybe mine (a D1-HD) is messed up and maybe the D2 has this corrected....
> 
> Mike



Thanks for the info Mike.

Hmm, I use the 6-ch input and I always get sound from the rears on MC DVD-A and SACD.

I'd be willing to bet that there are more than a few people using this feature.

Think about it, how many people by the D1\\D2 for only movies? I know I certainly wouldn't own one for movies alone.

Buy a cheaper AVR and upgrade every other year or go with an Integra\\Onkyo pre-pro for 1/4 of the price.


As far as the new upgrade,

if the past is any indication, Anthem will release a D2V2 to retailers first and then provide upgrades.

It would be nice if Anthem offered some accommodation to people who upgraded on the first go round but I doubt it.

Like last time, D1 owners who upgraded got somewhat shafted compared to those who bought the D2 new as the original D1 price plus upgrade was more than a new D2 plus they had to wait months for the upgrade.

The same was true w\\ARC. It shipped in retail D2's prior to being available as an upgrade.

Likewise for AVM owners only they had to wait longer.


I like Anthem as a company and I like their gear but expecting long time customers to cough up 4.5k+ for 2 upgrades this close together is a bit much, imo.

I doubt the demand for this upgrade will amount to much but I could be totally mistaken. Wouldn't be the first time, or the last.


----------



## dschamis

Another thing I have been thinking about is how long the turnaround time will be to get the D2 shipped back and forth from the factory. I'm not sure how long I can go without the D2 without starting to convulse but its not very long!


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/14619264
> 
> 
> Another thing I have been thinking about is how long the turnaround time will be to get the D2 shipped back and forth from the factory. I'm not sure how long I can go without the D2 without starting to convulse but its not very long!



When I had to send my D2 back to the factory because I was having problems with my OSD, it took about 4 weeks round trip.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/14616495
> 
> 
> Obviously none of us know how good the new video processor is. If we find out that this makes 480i look like 720p, $2k is a steal and I will be first in line, but chances are this will be a modest improvement for 480i DVDs, a small or no improvement for 1080i/720p and zero improvement or 1080p. All that is nice, but is it really worth $2k, when I think what I have right now is amazing?



Although this LOOKS like it could be valuable, I too am unconvinced. I would expect new processing settings, and if they are there and work well for people, I'll fork over the dough. Until then, the gains for video are unclear to me.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/14616495
> 
> 
> I know this sounds dumb, but I am pretty disappointed that they stuck with this crappy serial port. ARC is a very important part of the Anthem story. You would think that if they were going to the trouble of adding 5 HDMI ports they could add either USB or ethernet to replace the serial. It probably doesn't really matter, but its just a turn off. How nice would it be to be able to change the settings via a web interface rather than messing around with the OSD? My guess is that this will be replaced on the D3.



I completely agree! Get rid of that #$^#^%^&* serial port! I imagine there is some key engineer who just loves the thing and sees no need for an Ethernet port. I'd love to administer D2/Arc settings/backups over Ethernet (or USB).


The 8 HDMI inputs is attractive, as is the 7.1 LPCM over HDMI *and* the 192 KHz input ceiling. I don't need these quite yet, but will in the next 6 months.


This time, rather than be an early adopter, I may wait for user reports (good and bad). As you posted later, there's no good time to be without your D2!


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/14619796
> 
> 
> I completely agree! Get rid of that #$^#^%^&* serial port! I imagine there is some key engineer who just loves the thing and sees no need for an Ethernet port. I'd love to administer D2/Arc settings/backups over Ethernet (or USB).



Well, adding an ethernet/USB is fine, but you still need serial ports for home-automation control. Many still require serial ports to do this.


I assume the D2 supports Crestron and others over the serial port?


----------



## Milt99

I almost forgot about another of my 2 pet peeves about the D2, the RS232 port. What a relic and the source of a ton of upgrade woes.

I think I'd pay $200 just for a USB 2.0 port ON THE FRONT PANEL.


Another point to ponder:

The announcement of this upgrade signals to me that the D3 is likely much farther out. Like 2010.


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/14620668
> 
> 
> I almost forgot about another of my 2 pet peeves about the D2, the RS232 port. What a relic and the source of a ton of upgrade woes.
> 
> I think I'd pay $200 just for a USB 2.0 port ON THE FRONT PANEL.
> 
> 
> Another point to ponder:
> 
> The announcement of this upgrade signals to me that the D3 is likely much farther out. Like 2010.



In speaking with an Anthem insider at CEDIA, it will be here far sooner than 2010 - but not 2008. Usually, the second gen of an older product means, it's all over with updates.


----------



## rkphelps

I'm a little upset with Anthem about this V2 news since I just upgraded my D1 to a D1-HD 2 months ago. I wish they would have told me at the time they were replacing the Video board within a few months and given me the option of waiting for it vs paying over 2K to add a Obsolete one. I know this is how the cookie crumbles in home theater electronics, but I don't have to like it . thanks Anthem!


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/14620877
> 
> 
> I'm a little upset with Anthem about this V2 news since I just upgraded my D1 to a D1-HD 2 months ago. I wish they would have told me at the time they were replacing the Video board within a few months and given me the option of waiting for it vs paying over 2K to add a Obsolete one. I know this is how the cookie crumbles in home theater electronics, but I don't have to like it . thanks Anthem!



You could have purchased a Denon and had no option of doing a hardware upgrade.


Don't look a gift horse in the mouth and all...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14620092
> 
> 
> I assume the D2 supports Crestron and others over the serial port?



YOU BET IT DOES - Says a D2 and Crestron Owner.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14621409
> 
> 
> YOU BET IT DOES - Says a D2 and Crestron Owner.



Then that's a big reason to keep the serial port. They could add an ethernet port, but not remove the serial port.


Hey - just curious, how deep into Crestron are you? Do you have everything centralized, or you have Crestron's spread around your house? What, roughly, are you using it for?


Thanks!

-Mark


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14621431
> 
> 
> Then that's a big reason to keep the serial port. They could add an ethernet port, but not remove the serial port.
> 
> 
> Hey - just curious, how deep into Crestron are you? Do you have everything centralized, or you have Crestron's spread around your house? What, roughly, are you using it for?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Mark



I have three theaters and three Crestron Systems for each

with two touch panels per theater.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14621453
> 
> 
> I have three theaters and three Crestron Systems for each
> 
> with two touch panels per theater.



9 Crestrons total? Why so many?


And are the Crestrons wired together, or do you have them operating independently?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14621560
> 
> 
> 9 Crestrons total? Why so many?
> 
> 
> And are the Crestrons wired together, or do you have them operating independently?



I don't view it as 9 Crestrons


There are THREE Control Processors - 1 per theater.


Two Touch Panels per Theater.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14621616
> 
> 
> I don't view it as 9 Crestrons
> 
> 
> There are THREE Control Processors - 1 per theater.
> 
> 
> Two Touch Panels per Theater.



Okay - and are they wired together, or do you use them independent of each other? So can you control one theater from another theater, for example?


----------



## Milt99

Bland:

Thanks for the heads up but in all reality the way things are heading I'm pretty sure the Anthem will be my last expensive pre/pro.

IMO, by the time I need to upgrade there will be more all-digital sources and pre\\pros at performance\\price points and I won't be able to justify spending anywhere near $8k+ on a new pre\\pro.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14621409
> 
> 
> YOU BET IT DOES - Says a D2 and Crestron Owner.



Crestron needs to check out of Flintstonesville as well.










As long as I'm ranting...

I think rkphelps has a legitimate ***** and I do think he got screwed.

I'd be pissed as hell and on the phone to them as soon as I read the V2announcement.

They could've easily given him a bs story about a new board rev or something if they were concerned about a leak.

I would've have forgiven them a white lie and the wait for the latest and greatest.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/14620807
> 
> 
> In speaking with an Anthem insider at CEDIA, it will be here far sooner than 2010 - but not 2008. Usually, the second gen of an older product means, it's all over with updates.



Jeff,


I don't think that is correct with Anthem. I have a D1 (unmodified except ARC) and Anthem has continued to support it through software upgrades despite new poroducts and I think they will do so for the D2 owners who will decide not to upgrade, even should a D3 come along at some time.


I did not upgrade my D1 because I did not have a TV which supported HDMI or any components that had it for a long time (coax, optical and component was fine for me). Now I have a new Pioneer TV and a number of components that have HDMI as outputs (Apple TV, Denon 3800BDCI and DirecTV) and so it is probably time for me to upgrade to a D1-HDv2, but if it wasn't I would still have confidence that Anthem would support my good old D1.


I know it is probably very frustrating for those that have just upgraded a D1 or bought a D2 or any of the AVMs as is evident by the coments on this board, but that is always going to be the case, there is no good time to make the plunge with the changing products in HT land.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14620092
> 
> 
> Well, adding an ethernet/USB is fine, but you still need serial ports for home-automation control. Many still require serial ports to do this.
> 
> 
> I assume the D2 supports Crestron and others over the serial port?



Absolutely. My D2 is controlled flawlessly via RS-232 and my AMX system. And since I built that kewl DB-9 A/B switch with a front panel connector for my laptop so that I can do firmware upgrades without removing the rack, no way I want to eliminate the serial port.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14621648
> 
> 
> Okay - and are they wired together, or do you use them independent of each other? So can you control one theater from another theater, for example?



The Control Processors are on my LAN so that

I can UPLOAD the control program to them.


Why would I want to control one theater from another?


Changing something in one while I'm in another makes

no sense to me.


----------



## sunshine108j

Like all the people in this forum, I really like all the information that I get out of this thread, unlike most of you, I am not as knowledgeable in all aspect of HF audio or video arena, therefore most of this questions I ask is probably elementary to most of you.

I am building an HTCP system and will like to hook it up to my Anthem D2, I am hoping to build a nice high-end system with Blue Ray and true P24 uncompress audio using the Asus Xonar HDAV.


If I do this, will I still need to get a dedicated DVD audio player? I am hoping this HTPC will be for playing video at resolutions 1920 x [email protected] as well high end audio, using HTMI to HTMI to send audio and video to my Anthem D2. I know I can do this, but will I be getting the same quality as if I would by using dedicated components?


The next questionsince I just got my Anthem D2 I am learning a lot, but there are things I do not know or totally understand about HF equipment, is there a video that can help a novice like me to get the most of the systems, I am really confuse and need help with my configuration and is driving me crazy, I line in Raleigh\\Durham NC if there is anyone that has an Anthem D2 and can help me get started I will be grateful


My current setup:

Dali speakers

Euphonia MS4, euphonia CS4, euphonia AS2, euphonia phantom

Anthem D2

Cary Audio Model 7.125

Pioneer 50" 1080p Flat Panel Plasma HDTV - PDP5010FD



Thank you in advance


Fred


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sunshine108j* /forum/post/14623782
> 
> 
> Like all the people in this forum, I really like all the information that I get out of this thread, unlike most of you, I am not as knowledgeable in all aspect of HF audio or video arena, therefore most of this questions I ask is probably elementary to most of you.
> 
> I am building an HTCP system and will like to hook it up to my Anthem D2, I am hoping to build a nice high-end system with Blue Ray and true P24 uncompress audio using the Asus Xonar HDAV.
> 
> 
> If I do this, will I still need to get a dedicated DVD audio player? I am hoping this HTPC will be for playing video at resolutions 1920 x [email protected] as well high end audio, using HTMI to HTMI to send audio and video to my Anthem D2. I know I can do this, but will I be getting the same quality as if I would by using dedicated components?
> 
> 
> The next questionsince I just got my Anthem D2 I am learning a lot, but there are things I do not know or totally understand about HF equipment, is there a video that can help a novice like me to get the most of the systems, I am really confuse and need help with my configuration and is driving me crazy, I line in Raleigh\\Durham NC if there is anyone that has an Anthem D2 and can help me get started I will be grateful
> 
> 
> My current setup:
> 
> Dali speakers
> 
> Euphonia MS4, euphonia CS4, euphonia AS2, euphonia phantom
> 
> Anthem D2
> 
> Cary Audio Model 7.125
> 
> Pioneer 50" 1080p Flat Panel Plasma HDTV - PDP5010FD
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you in advance
> 
> 
> Fred



Fred,

There's a whole forum here devoted to Home Theater Personal Computer enthusiasts. I can tell you that some folks building those have gone quite far indeed -- perhaps into the "exotic" realm. Those folks certainly don't need a separate DVD-Audio player. However, as with all such projects, it depends on how much you are willing to spend on purchasing the pieces that make it work, and how much time you are willing to spend tweaking the way those pieces work together. HTPC setups are for people you ENJOY fiddling with such stuff. If you want a turn-key solution that has all the decisions already made for you, you will probably be better off getting a commercially produced stand-alone player.


I can't give you any advice on how to select parts for, or configure, an HTPC setup. I haven't been through that myself. I can tell you that a number of HTPC posters here have had HDMI handshake problems with the D2 apparently resulting from their computer graphics card changing resolution to frequently as it boots up. There is a gadget sold by Geffen called the "DVI Detective" which you can put in line between the HTPC and the D2. It allows you to force certain configuration parameters to get around such issues.


--------------------------------------


Congrats on getting your new D2! You've made a good choice.


The first thing you should do is look through the collection of posts linked in the first post of this thread. I call them "The Good Parts Version" of this thread.


In particular, for the basics of video setup, look for the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post in that list.


After looking through those, your best bet is to scan BACKWARDS through this thread from the end looking for stuff you find interesting. Feel free to post newbie questions here. It's not a problem. But do check those link in the first post here as many of the frequently asked questions are answered in those posts.

--Bob


----------



## rydenfan

If the new D2V.2 is going to retail for around $7,900, is there any spectulation of what the AVM50 with these upgrade will retail for?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rydenfan* /forum/post/14624440
> 
> 
> If the new D2V.2 is going to retail for around $7,900, is there any spectulation of what the AVM50 with these upgrade will retail for?



Based on past practice, about $2000 to $2500 less. Of course none of the new pricing is official yet. Even that $7900 figure from the press release is only an "estimate".

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

I'm going to be moving soon (new house) and building a new theater. I thought I'd update to v 1.33 even though I don't have ARC. After updating I put the D2 back to the factory presets since I'll eventually be changing everything. Just thought I'd check with the experts and make sure this is the way to go.

I should also add that I didn't use the Video Editor, I just used the menu on the D2 to go back to factory presets.

TIA


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/14624637
> 
> 
> I'm going to be moving soon (new house) and building a new theater. I thought I'd update to v 1.33 even though I don't have ARC. After updating I put the D2 back to the factory presets since I'll eventually be changing everything. Just thought I'd check with the experts and make sure this is the way to go.
> 
> I should also add that I didn't use the Video Editor, I just used the menu on the D2 to go back to factory presets.
> 
> TIA



Sure, that's fine. That resets everything in the Setup menu, the Video Source Adjust menu, and the "temporary" audio adjustments available via the remote control.


[Once you have Uploaded ARC results there's one other step necessary if you want to to completely restore the Anthem to initial, just from the factory, state. And that's to do an Erase using the ARC Windows PC application. That's the only way to remove the ARC room correction parameters from the Anthem's memory. But you don't really have to do this since a Reload Factory Defaults will turn Room EQ = OFF for all sources, which means any uploaded ARC stuff simply isn't being used -- and down the road you can always just load new ARC results on top of whatever happens to still be in there.]

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/14622186
> 
> 
> Bland:
> 
> Thanks for the heads up but in all reality the way things are heading I'm pretty sure the Anthem will be my last expensive pre/pro.



I made that statement at least 3 times to my own CFO.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14624612
> 
> 
> Based on past practice, about $2000 to $2500 less. Of course none of the new pricing is official yet. Even that $7900 figure from the press release is only an "estimate".
> 
> --Bob



Bob figure are quite dead on. This sound like expensive but the reality is that they will change most of the expensive electronic boards.


The addition of inputs is also welcomed I just added a HTPC and I am running out of HDMI inputs.


----------



## Audio 1

Any speculation as to when we could expect to see the AVM-50v2 available for purchase as a new unit(non-upgrade) and what the expected price may be?


----------



## glennQNYC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audio 1* /forum/post/14626241
> 
> 
> Any speculation as to when we could expect to see the AVM-50v2 available for purchase as a new unit(non-upgrade) and what the expected price may be?



Probably 4th quarter.


glennQ


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks again Bob,


I'm still having the issues I described in post # 14186. Everything worked fine with v1.21 so I'm hoping going to v 1.33 will help. I haven't had the chance to see what the new version did. Everything is ready for the move but I thought before boxing the D2 up I would do the update, since I have to use a desktop. I doubt if the Video Editor has anything to do with it either. I have the D2 boxed up and ready for the move and it might be awhile before it comes back out of the box. I'm wondering if I should talk to Nick at Anthem about it or just wait and see.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/14093529
> 
> 
> I downloaded v 1.31 and I'm still having the same issues as before. I see a vertical blue bar on a black screen until I change from one component to another and back to the dvd setting.
> 
> I have the D2 set to Letter/ Pillar Box but it's way to narrow vertically. When I change to another setting (ex.) Anamorphic and then back to Pillar Box then it's ok. I tried to save and then load the settings but they don't seem to work. The D2 goes back to asking if I want to save over and over.
> 
> When I downloaded the 1.31 v I saw the "Live Video Settings Editor" but I didn't see a way to download or use it. Maybe this is my problem? Could someone explain how to get the Editor.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



Ken,

I'm quoting your older post (#14186) so folks will know what you are talking about.


Nick won't be able to help much if you don't have the D2 set up so he can have you try things.


The new firmware install may fix your problem, but there's no way to be sure until you hook things back up again down the road.


When you hook stuff up again, if the problem is still there, post again and/or give Anthem tech support a call.


There are several possibilities:


* It could be a software bug that Anthem needs to fix.


* One of your HDMI devices may be confusing the Anthem.


* You could have a corrupted value in your D2 settings.


* There is a hardware problem on your D2. This is the least likely since you can fix the problem just by switching to a different source and back.


It's not to hard to work through the possibilities to isolate what's really going on, but it does require that you have the unit set up so you can try stuff.


One thing that puzzles me is that you say you can't Save or Load settings. Do you mean in the Setup menu? Are you still having that trouble? Remember that you need to "confirm" that you really want to do this by changing the No to Yes (with the arrow keys) and then pressing Select before the operation will actually happen. You will also be blocked if you set a password to protect your settings and didn't give it when asked.


Good luck with the move! And let us know when you've got the D2 hooked up again.

--Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck

I finally had some time to take some measurements and run the ARC software for the first time yesterday.


I have an AVM-50/ARC with a B&K Reference 200.5 amp powering the following:


Mains - Martin Logan Ascents

Center - Martin Logan Stage

Rears - Martin Logan Scripts

Sub - Martin Logan Descent


The actual room is 16' W x 13' D x 9', but the room opens up on the right to the breakfast nook and kitchen. Basically, the theater is not in a closed off room at all as there is an opening to the main entrance and a passageway to the formal dining room in the kitchen.


In looking at the results, I have about a 5db drop off at around 65-70hz that ARC was not able to correct very well. The mains drop off considerably at 12-13khz and the rears drop even more starting around 1-2khz. The performance of the rears probably has a lot to do with their height. I think I could get better result by lowering the speakers or somehow pointing them downward.


Any other ideas that might help with the drop off at 65hz (it effects the speakers in the front of the room, but not at the back of the room)?


By the way....I set the ARC to max at 10khz. The auto detect set the following crossover points:


Mains - 40hz

Center - 95hz

Rears - 85hz

Sub - 120hz


Room gain was about 3.9


The results of this measurement further substantiates my desire to go with a different speaker system (been eying Paradigms for a log time).


As far as results, I can't say for sure yet as I haven't sat down to a movie. I can tell that dialog seems clearer and I have more energy in the surround speakers. I look forward to putting in a movie soon.


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks again Bob,

I should be able to set up the D2 just to see what's going on, probably in another month.


I might be saving wrong. When it asks to save I choose Yes and then I hit the Select key, but as soon as I do it asks if I want to save again. This is probably normal?


I should also add that I don't have any HDMI devices and I don't have ARC yet. Also when I update I don't have anything connected to the D2 since I have to use a desktop with XP. I have a laptop but it has Vista and I understand it won't work correctly.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14640780
> 
> 
> By the way....I set the ARC to max at 10khz. The auto detect set the following crossover points:
> 
> 
> Mains - 40hz
> 
> Center - 95hz
> 
> Rears - 85hz
> 
> Sub - 120hz
> 
> 
> Room gain was about 3.9



OK, this is a good start, but you clearly have some work to do.


First, the basic volume level ARC is targeting is a bit low (the flat part of the Target line to the right of the hump). It's around 69dB and should be closer to 75dB. Go through the exercise of setting you Setup / Speaker Calibration / Noise Level and also re-adjusting the volume knob in your subwoofer to compensate.


[Use your Radio Shack SPL meter set to "slow" response and "C" weighting -- pointing straight up at the ARC mic position #1. In Setup / Speaker Calibration, set the volume trims for the Left Front and Subwoofer lines both to 0dB. It's OK to leave them that way. They are ignored during ARC Measurement and ARC will reset them correctly when you do an Upload. In the first line of that menu set the test mode to Manual. Scroll down one line to Noise Level (noise will now be coming from the LF speaker) and adjust Noise Level until you get a roughly 75dB SPL reading. Now scroll down to the subwoofer line and using *ONLY* the volume knob built into the subwoofer, adjust until you also get roughly 75dB SPL. Ballpark close is fine for these two settings. Now do a re-Measurement with ARC.]


Next, as you've figured out, you have a treble problem in your two surround speakers. They Measure 9dB below Target at 5KHz in the RS (7dB low in the LS). And by 12KHz it is even worse. You've also got a pretty boomy peak for those at 150Hz. This could just be the nature of your surround speakers but there are a few things to look for. See if there are any configuration options for those speakers -- a response curve adjustment or a rear bass port that you can plug up. And yes, see if you can figure out a way to repoint them or lower them.


What ARC has left you for residuals on those is not that bad even as they are set now. The 150Hz issue is gone and you are only 4dB (RS) and 3dB (LS) below Target at 5KHz which should actually sound pretty good, but you will get better results if you can re-configure them to improve the Measured curves. Right now ARC is providing the maximum correction it allows up there (a 6dB limit to protect the amps and speakers).


And there's ANOTHER benefit of re-configuring those surrounds, which is that I think one reason you still have a dip at 65Hz left in the subwoofer is that ARC is expending lots of resources working on your high frequency problem.


There's an easy way to check that. Without doing a re-Measurement, just lower the Max EQ Frequency Target to something low like 1KHz and see if the Calculated curve for the subwoofer improves. If so, you know ARC is currently being asked to use too much of its resources solving that high frequency problem. A compromise Max EQ Frequency Target between 5KHz (the default) and the 10KHz you are using now might work better.


Now the problem you have at 65Hz is really not that bad. Your LF, C, RF speakers are completely corrected for that by ARC. There's nothing additional you need to do for those 3.


For the subwoofer, if you can't fix the problem by lowering Max EQ Frequency and/or by repointing your surrounds to free up ARC resources, consider moving your subwoofer a bit so that it couples differently to the room. Often a move of just a few inches can have a significant effect.


[You can get a quick and dirty handle on this by using the test tones in the Anthem's "Room Response Filter". This Filter itself is disabled when you are using ARC but you can still use the test tones. Get the Filter playing the test tone closest to 65Hz, leave your SPL meter set up as described for the Noise Level setting above, and see how the SPL reading varies as you move the subwoofer a bit. See if you can find a minor repositioning of the subwoofer that gives you a higher SPL reading at 65Hz. Simply rotating (repointing) the subwoofer in place a bit may even do the trick. NOTE: After moving the subwoofer, re-check its volume knob setting as described in the Noise Level stuff above. You will also need to re-check the Phase setting for it to make sure it is still properly matched in Phase to the main speakers. You can do the Phase adjustment before or after setting up ARC without having to re-Measure.]


While you are at it, double check that you have bypassed the crossover built into your subwoofer, or at least that you've turned it all the way up to its highest frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. I don't think you have a problem here, but it is wise to double check. And some subwoofers have a control that adjusts their response right around 60Hz (a key frequency for LFE content). If yours offers a "dynamics" control or anything like that, see what happens when you change that setting.


The residual for your subwoofer at 65Hz is only 5dB low so you really only need a small additional improvement. If you can get another 3dB there (leaving a 2dB residual) you'll be fine.


Again, do the test Calculation at Max EQ Frequency of 1KHz just to see if the subwoofer suddenly snaps back into a fit with the Target, and if so, you know the easiest answer to all your problems is to fix the Measured curves for your SURROUND speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/14641285
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob,
> 
> I should be able to set up the D2 just to see what's going on, probably in another month.
> 
> 
> I might be saving wrong. When it asks to save I choose Yes and then I hit the Select key, but as soon as I do it asks if I want to save again. This is probably normal?
> 
> 
> I should also add that I don't have any HDMI devices and I don't have ARC yet. Also when I update I don't have anything connected to the D2 since I have to use a desktop with XP. I have a laptop but it has Vista and I understand it won't work correctly.



No, when you change the No to Yes and hit Select it should briefly put up a screen that said the Save was successful and then return you to the Save and Load Settings menu. However, if you have "key bounce" on your remote so that it is sending the "Select" twice you will get something similar to what you report since the second Select will be applied to that Save and Load Settings menu and trigger a new Save. This can sometimes happen, for example, if you are using a 3rd party programmable remote that's not set up quite right.


As long as you see the brief screen that the Save was successful you are good to go. You can just Back out of the second attempt to Save settings.


-----------------------------------------


We have a number of people here who are using Vista without problems. For folks using USB to Serial adapters, we've had more problems reported when using Vista than when using XP, but that is likely more a matter of the choice of adapter and the installation of the drivers used by that adapter.


Your Vista laptop may very well work fine for you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

KCWolfPck,

By the way, I don't have a clue why ARC did not roll off the high frequency of the Target curves for your two surround speakers as it did for the rest of your main speakers. The steep drop in Measured curve for the Surrounds should have caused ARC to roll off that Target curve for those (according to what we've been able to glean from Anthem).


This may be a bug in ARC. Nick at Anthem suggests that folks with this type of Target curve anomaly should email their ARC data file to Anthem tech support so that they can see what's happening. Note you need to email the ARC data file -- not the screen capture images. If you do this, be sure to mention that the problem is in the Surround speakers -- Target curve flat at high frequencies instead of rolling off as the Measurements would seem to suggest it should.

--Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14641562
> 
> 
> 
> First, the basic volume level ARC is targeting is a bit low (the flat part of the Target line to the right of the hump). It's around 69dB and should be closer to 75dB. Go through the exercise of setting you Setup / Speaker Calibration / Noise Level and also re-adjusting the volume knob in your subwoofer to compensate.
> 
> 
> [Use your Radio Shack SPL meter set to "slow" response and "C" weighting -- pointing straight up at the ARC mic position #1. In Setup / Speaker Calibration, set the volume trims for the Left Front and Subwoofer lines both to 0dB. It's OK to leave them that way. They are ignored during ARC Measurement and ARC will reset them correctly when you do an Upload. In the first line of that menu set the test mode to Manual. Scroll down one line to Noise Level (noise will now be coming from the LF speaker) and adjust Noise Level until you get a roughly 75dB SPL reading. Now scroll down to the subwoofer line and using *ONLY* the volume knob built into the subwoofer, adjust until you also get roughly 75dB SPL. Ballpark close is fine for these two settings. Now do a re-Measurement with ARC.]



I did this to a tee prior to doing the measurement. Are you saying that I should bump up the volume a few db....say calibrate to 80db instead of 75? Perhaps the reason it is low is because when I take the db measurement, I am in the sweet spot. However, if the ARC measurement is an average of all of the measurement locations....I would imagine that would be a lower db as my speakers are very directional electrostatics and 4 of the 5 of those readings would not be in the sweet spot.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14641562
> 
> 
> 
> Next, as you've figured out, you have a treble problem in your two surround speakers. They Measure 9dB below Target at 5KHz in the RS (7dB low in the LS). And by 12KHz it is even worse. You've also got a pretty boomy peak for those at 150Hz. This could just be the nature of your surround speakers but there are a few things to look for. See if there are any configuration options for those speakers -- a response curve adjustment or a rear bass port that you can plug up. And yes, see if you can figure out a way to repoint them or lower them.



No rear base ports or anything in the rear speakers. They are dipole and the LR is tucked into a corner, whereas the RR is open behind the speaker. That obviously doesn't help. I will lower them so the panel is level with the ears. I've been meaning to do this anyway because I've always noticed much better surround effect when I stood up.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14641562
> 
> 
> While you are at it, double check that you have bypassed the crossover built into your subwoofer, or at least that you've turned it all the way up to its highest frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. I don't think you have a problem here, but it is wise to double check. And some subwoofers have a control that adjusts their response right around 60Hz (a key frequency for LFE content). If yours offers a "dynamics" control or anything like that, see what happens when you change that setting.



The ML Decent has two adjustments. There is a Low Pass Filter 40hz/70hz switch which I have set to 70hz (which I understand is inactive anyway as I am using the LFE input via XLR balanced cable). There is also a 25hz +/- 12db level adjustment that I have set to 0.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14641562
> 
> 
> Again, do the test Calculation at Max EQ Frequency of 1KHz just to see if the subwoofer suddenly snaps back into a fit with the Target, and if so, you know the easiest answer to all your problems is to fix the Measured curves for your SURROUND speakers.
> 
> --Bob



I will run the 1kHz sample test when I get home and hope it produces the results you expect.


----------



## yacht422

walt here. have moved speakers, etc., will post results, but what i've found is, in my room, the position of the chair backs makes a difference. bob had mentioned keeping the mic at ear level: well, ear level as it relates to the floor also seems to have value. room gain changes (from 3.9 to 2.7, prox) as the chair backs recline[with the highest gain when the backs are full up]. We sit reclined, and most of the measurements were at that position. With the seats full up, things happen. the gain goes up, and i measure a dip in the surrounds, not there when reclined.

Regrettably, i've lost the osd. i performed a day of measurements yesterday, not pleased with the results, but the main outcome was the loss of the osd. when i go to _room setup_ on the remote, a black screen is the result. sound from the sat is there, but no menu. help.









Also, a question. i set up the pink noise with a r/s, properly set, to read 77db with a 4.5 db gain. but, as you can see in my files, arc targets from 74db to 72 db "right away"/ reason for concern? seems to be a big hump. that said, arc boosts and trims things into a reasonably decent line.









here are the files, but i am beginning to believe that there are so many variables(chair back height;mic position; speakers locations, etc, that it is impossible to achieve that _perfect curve_ and _line_ at a reference 75 db. Eh?

thx again

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/14642013
> 
> 
> I did this to a tee prior to doing the measurement. Are you saying that I should bump up the volume a few db....say calibrate to 80db instead of 75? Perhaps the reason it is low is because when I take the db measurement, I am in the sweet spot. However, if the ARC measurement is an average of all of the measurement locations....I would imagine that would be a lower db as my speakers are very directional electrostatics and 4 of the 5 of those readings would not be in the sweet spot.
> 
> 
> The ML Decent has two adjustments. There is a Low Pass Filter 40hz/70hz switch which I have set to 70hz (which I understand is inactive anyway as I am using the LFE input via XLR balanced cable). There is also a 25hz +/- 12db level adjustment that I have set to 0..



ARC makes its basic level decision and speaker volume trim adjustments based on the mic #1 Measurement position.


I suspect the difference here is that ARC is using a broader range of frequencies to make these decisions than what you will get using the test tones and the SPL meter.


Also remember that you do have to set the LF volume trim line to 0dB before you adjust the Noise Level line to get accurate results.


So yes, bump up Noise Level a few dB and lower the volume knob on the sub to compensate. What you are aiming for is a basic Target level nearer to 75dB and, once you have Uploaded ARC's results, a subwoofer volume trim setting Uploaded by ARC that is a few dB either side of 0dB.


---------------------------------------


Based on your sub's Measured curve I would say you have, indeed, successfully bypassed the crossover inside the sub.


I'd suggest leaving the 25Hz setting where you have it while working on the other suggested fixes.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike

I do not have a warranty issue, just warranty and purchase musings that interest me…..


The Anthem D1 had a warranty of 5 years from the date of purchase for the original owner (except for the remote – which was 1 year).


The Anthem D2 had a warranty for the original purchaser as follows:

1 year – remote control.

2 years – video circuitry.

3 years – everything else.


If you have a unit that is now out of warranty (or does not have a warranty because you are not the original purchaser) what is the warranty then if you get the unit upgraded?


D1 to a D2.V2 (or maybe the name is a D1.HD.V2)?


D1.HD to a D1.HD.V2?


D2 to a D2.V2?


If you had a D1 upgraded to a D1-HD and you were less than 2 years into your warranty what was the resulting warranty on the unit once the upgrade was complete?


I am basically trying to decide if I will sell my D1.HD and buy a new D2.V2. (probably most expensive (estimated $3000 - $3500 net cost), but probably comes with the best resulting warranty).


Or possibly get my D1.HD with ARC upgraded to a D1.HD.V2. (probably in the middle, but may not be that much different from above - $2100 - $2700).


Or maybe sell my D1.HD and buy a used D1 and have it upgraded to a D1.HD.V2 (and add the ARC). (probably least expensive by quite a ways - $800 - $1300 net).


I bought my D1.HD used (and added the ARC) so the resulting warranty after the upgrade interests me.


A lot of this depends on the final pricing of the following:


D1 – D1.HD.V2.


D1.HD – D1.HD.V2.


D2.V2.


Just some food for thought……


Or maybe I will sell my D1.HD with ARC and buy the Denon.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/14642032
> 
> 
> walt here. have moved speakers, etc., will post results, but what i've found is, in my room, the position of the chair backs makes a difference. bob had mentioned keeping the mic at ear level: well, ear level as it relates to the floor also seems to have value. room gain changes (from 3.9 to 2.7, prox) as the chair backs recline[with the highest gain when the backs are full up]. We sit reclined, and most of the measurements were at that position. With the seats full up, things happen. the gain goes up, and i measure a dip in the surrounds, not there when reclined.
> 
> Regrettably, i've lost the osd. i performed a day of measurements yesterday, not pleased with the results, but the main outcome was the loss of the osd. when i go to _room setup_ on the remote, a black screen is the result. sound from the sat is there, but no menu. help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, a question. i set up the pink noise with a r/s, properly set, to read 77db with a 4.5 db gain. but, as you can see in my files, arc targets from 74db to 72 db "right away"/ reason for concern? seems to be a big hump. that said, arc boosts and trims things into a reasonably decent line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here are the files, but i am beginning to believe that there are so many variables(chair back height;mic position; speakers locations, etc, that it is impossible to achieve that _perfect curve_ and _line_ at a reference 75 db. Eh?
> 
> thx again
> 
> walt



First let's tackle the OSD problem. I don't know what you mean by going to "room setup" on the remote -- are you using some sort of programmable remote? Or did you mean you were trying to bring up the Anthem's "Setup" menu?


If you've lost the ability to view the Anthem's Setup menu on screen, I suggest you try a re-install of the V1.33 firmware. I don't know what triggers this problem, but a re-install has fixed it for many people. Do the re-install just like you were doing it for the first time -- don't skip any steps. After the re-install (and after restoring your Saved User Settings), I suggest you do a re-Upload of your ARC results.


If re-installing V1.33 doesn't fix your OSD problem you will need to give Anthem tech support a call.


--------------------------------------------------


Next, the "dip" in the surrounds. If you mean what's showing up around 700Hz in the Measured curves, that's minor and ARC has corrected it. Nothing to worry about.


Next the chair back up or down. You should Measure at the seated ear height the way you actually sit to use the system. If that's reclined then that's what you want to use.


The difference between Measurement heights for reclined or erect could be due to several things. First of all, the standing waves in the room exist vertically as well as horizontally. So lowering your seating position could have as much effect as shifting the chair left or right. Second, the higher frequencies are not spread uniformly by the speakers and the vertical spread is usually less uniform than the horizontal spread. That's why setting the mic at the proper ear height -- the one you actually use when listening -- is important.


Also remember that you don't want the tip of the mic right up against the chair back. Make sure the mic tip is not positioned to get immediate reflections off the chair back. Raise the tip up above the top of the chair back a bit, or move the mic position forward so that the mic is a foot or so in front of the chair back.


You didn't post the run where you got the 2.7 Room Gain, so I can't see what might have Measured differently. The biggest problem in the run you did post is that your front speakers are still too hot between 20Hz and 30Hz. In addition, as I've said before, I think your results will benefit from raising the Max EQ Frequency Target -- I'd try 12KHz to start.


But the results you posted don't look that bad at all.


------------------------------------------


You say you don't like the results. You mean you don't like the sound you are hearing? Or simply that you are getting frustrated trying to get the curves to look right on the charts?


Your basic volume level is looking better. Again, what you measure with the SPL meter and what ARC sees when it looks at a broader range of frequencies will often differ a bit. You say you have Noise Level at 4.5dB now and that produces a 77dB SPL, but ARC is setting the basic volume level around 72dB. OK that's not a bad match. I suspect ARC is seeing the loud bass from your front speakers (e.g. around 40Hz) and is dropping the basic level down a bit to compensate. For now I'd suggest you just stick with the Noise Level value you are currently using. If you ever figure out why your front speakers are so hot in the low bass and fix that, then you can revisit this.


But really, the results curves you posted don't look that bad!


I suggest you do your Measurement using the reclined ear height, if that's the way you listen -- making sure the tip of the mic is not right up against the seat back. Remember to use enough spacing between all your mic positions. And I suggest you try Calculating using a higher Max EQ Frequency Target.


But that's pretty much it unless you want to try to tackle that lowest bass issue from the front speakers. If you can't tackle it by repositioning the front speakers, one thing you could do via ARC is to RAISE the crossover Target for the front speakers from the 40Hz that ARC chose to something higher -- perhaps 60Hz -- and do another calculation. That should lower the 20 to 30Hz range for those two speakers even more, and may result in a better match to the new Target curve.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

CycloneMike,

I've never seen anything in writing from Anthem regarding what happens to the warranties when you upgrade.


I suggest you send an email to Anthem tech support asking for details. When you find out, please do post here as I'm sure there are others who could use this information as well.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14641699
> 
> 
> KCWolfPck,
> 
> By the way, I don't have a clue why ARC did not roll off the high frequency of the Target curves for your two surround speakers as it did for the rest of your main speakers. ............................................................ ...



Dipoles and bipoles often give great problems to autoEQ systems simiply because they radiate from behind and the reflection may reach the mic nearly as fast as the direct radiation at some frequencies and at some mic positions.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14642652
> 
> 
> Dipoles and bipoles often give great problems to autoEQ systems simiply because they radiate from behind and the reflection may reach the mic nearly as fast as the direct radiation at some frequencies and at some mic positions.



Still, what Nick said is that the roll off in the Target curve is SUPPOSED to be a result of seeing a roll off in the Measurement curve -- i.e., it isn't Targeting full correction up there in order to protect the amp and speaker.


So there is a discrepancy between the Measured and Target curves for KCWolfPck's Surround speakers.


Nick said that they can look in the ARC data file to get the details of what it is using to make this decision. In particular they can see the data from all mic positions -- not just the average curve the chart shows.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
CycloneMike,

I've never seen anything in writing from Anthem regarding what happens to the warranties when you upgrade.


I suggest you send an email to Anthem tech support asking for details. When you find out, please do post here as I'm sure there are others who could use this information as well.

--Bob
E-mail sent, along with my question as to why the ARC did not use a flatter low frequency curve for my music set-up (only 2 front speakers - no sub).


I like the sound, but feel that the bass could be better and the measurements show my system could handle higher dB at the low frequencies.


Mike


See attached.

 

MUSIC-08200107.doc 90.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14642941
> 
> 
> E-mail sent, along with my question as to why the ARC did not use a flatter low frequency curve for my music set-up (only 2 front speakers - no sub).
> 
> 
> I like the sound, but feel that the bass could be better and the measurements show my system could handle higher dB at the low frequencies.



Yes, it looks like ARC has applied a 40Hz crossover to the front speakers in your 2.0 Music configuration -- for no good reason that I can see.


The thing is, it's not supposed to be POSSIBLE to apply a crossover to LF/RF when you have no subwoofer configured. They are supposed to be forced to Large -- which means you should only be getting subsonic filtering (much lower than 40Hz).


So there's a bug in ARC. The question is whether it is a bug in what ARC is Uploading into the Anthem or only in what it is displaying as Targets and Calculated results.


Nick will likely need you to email him your ARC data file for this result (not just the screen shots of the charts) so the engineers can pick it apart.


Please do report back when you hear what he has to say.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14643154
> 
> 
> Yes, it looks like ARC has applied a 40Hz crossover to the front speakers in your 2.0 Music configuration -- for no good reason that I can see.
> 
> 
> The thing is, it's not supposed to be POSSIBLE to apply a crossover to LF/RF when you have no subwoofer configured. They are supposed to be forced to Large -- which means you should only be getting subsonic filtering (much lower than 40Hz).
> 
> 
> So there's a bug in ARC. The question is whether it is a bug in what ARC is Uploading into the Anthem or only in what it is displaying as Targets and Calculated results.
> 
> 
> Nick will likely need you to email him your ARC data file for this result (not just the screen shots of the charts) so the engineers can pick it apart.
> 
> --Bob



I also included the ARC data file with the e-mail I sent.


I look forward to the response.


Mike


----------



## KCWolfPck

I ran a test calculation after changing the targets to max at 1kHz. I still am getting the same 5db dip at 65Hz in the calculated Sub graph.


So, it looks like I'll be doing a little adjusting to see if I can correct that a little bit.


----------



## Tolstoi

I really like the my Anthem and the ARC.


Two days ago in front of two friends, my main amp which is stereo tube amp blow up in the middle of a movie. It took me exactly 20 minutes to swap the cables to use the sub channels on my 3 channels amp, reconfigure the setup and quickly re-run the ARC and restart the movie.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14642541
> 
> 
> I do not have a warranty issue, just warranty and purchase musings that interest me..
> 
> 
> The Anthem D1 had a warranty of 5 years from the date of purchase for the original owner (except for the remote - which was 1 year).
> 
> 
> The Anthem D2 had a warranty for the original purchaser as follows:
> 
> 1 year - remote control.
> 
> 2 years - video circuitry.
> 
> 3 years - everything else.
> 
> 
> If you have a unit that is now out of warranty (or does not have a warranty because you are not the original purchaser) what is the warranty then if you get the unit upgraded?
> 
> 
> D1 to a D2.V2 (or maybe the name is a D1.HD.V2)?
> 
> 
> D1.HD to a D1.HD.V2?
> 
> 
> D2 to a D2.V2?
> 
> 
> If you had a D1 upgraded to a D1-HD and you were less than 2 years into your warranty what was the resulting warranty on the unit once the upgrade was complete?
> 
> 
> I am basically trying to decide if I will sell my D1.HD and buy a new D2.V2. (probably most expensive (estimated $3000 - $3500 net cost), but probably comes with the best resulting warranty).
> 
> 
> Or possibly get my D1.HD with ARC upgraded to a D1.HD.V2. (probably in the middle, but may not be that much different from above - $2100 - $2700).
> 
> 
> Or maybe sell my D1.HD and buy a used D1 and have it upgraded to a D1.HD.V2 (and add the ARC). (probably least expensive by quite a ways - $800 - $1300 net).
> 
> 
> I bought my D1.HD used (and added the ARC) so the resulting warranty after the upgrade interests me.
> 
> 
> A lot of this depends on the final pricing of the following:
> 
> 
> D1 - D1.HD.V2.
> 
> 
> D1.HD - D1.HD.V2.
> 
> 
> D2.V2.
> 
> 
> Just some food for thought
> 
> 
> Or maybe I will sell my D1.HD with ARC and buy the Denon.



Mike,


That Denon is getting some good press, but I would sure miss the customer support from Anthem.


----------



## AnthemAVM

Question for Bob,


If after running the room calculations, and ARC does its calculation. Is it a bad thing for me to go and tell it, I want my sub to cut off at 80, and not the 140 it has it set at?


Michael


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14648120
> 
> 
> Question for Bob,
> 
> 
> If after running the room calculations, and ARC does its calculation. Is it a bad thing for me to go and tell it, I want my sub to cut off at 80, and not the 140 it has it set at?
> 
> 
> Michael



Michael,


I would have to say yes it would since you would now have a hole in the response curves left by not having the sub fill in up to 140Hz. If you really want to do this I would suggest setting the target values for the cross over lower and rerunning the analysis part of ARC and up-loading it to your AVM.


As explained in great detail by Bob in previous posts you can rename your current file as a back-up and then rerun ARC without having to take new speaker readings since all you are changing is target values. Then you will have both ARC files to do a back to back with the 140Hz and the 80Hz to see which you like best.


I believe this is correct.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14648120
> 
> 
> Question for Bob,
> 
> 
> If after running the room calculations, and ARC does its calculation. Is it a bad thing for me to go and tell it, I want my sub to cut off at 80, and not the 140 it has it set at?
> 
> 
> Michael



If you want to do this, do *NOT* do it by just changing the crossover value that ARC Uploads into Setup / Speaker Configuration. Also, don't do it by engaging any crossover built into the subwoofer itself.


To do it, you need to open up your ARC data file in Advanced mode (I recommend you do this in a copy of the file so you still have the original), then make the change in the Targets window, accept that change and then re-Calculate and re-Upload.


ARC will reset the Target curves and produce new results for all speakers based on the new subwoofer crossover you have specified.


My recommendation however is:


1) Don't do this unless there is a specific problem you are trying to solve in what you hear when using the crossover ARC selected. The effective crossover for your sub is a COMBINATION of the crossover ARC displays and the room correction parameters it Uploads. That means a high crossover setting for your sub like this may sound great. And,


2) If you DO decide you need to lower the sub crossover value ARC has selected, perhaps to reduce the perception that you can localize the sub output, do it in small steps and listen to the results. For example, if ARC selected 140Hz, try reducing it to 130, 120, or at most 110 to start. Don't go all the way to 80Hz. ARC uses the high sub crossover values to solve some problems. So if you need to reduce that, do just the minimum reduction that fixes what you want to fix.


Please note there is no reason to reduce the crossover to 80Hz just because that's what THX recommends. ARC blends the output from all the speakers automatically for you which is superior to the "one setting fits all" approach of a THX setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

AnthemAVM,

It occurs to me that I think yours is the first report we've had here of ARC picking a sub crossover value ABOVE 120Hz.


Could you post your charts and also your Targets window so we can see what's going on?

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

Bob: thx for the detailed response.

update: V1.33 reload did the trick - OSD is back.

But, could(can) not upload old saved measurements.(none of 11 prev)

So, remeasured,which was accepted by arc/d2







- but, again a problem.







After uploading the newest numbers, i changed the targets to agree with your recent post, and this new set would not load. _error 0.03_ 'could not find the numbers', or 'could not find the d-2'.









Not a problem, just another "item" in a list of same.









Re: your earlier post addressing mic and chair positions; the point i wanted to make was that there are so-o-o many variables to play with, each having an impact on what ARC "sees", and then corrects, that i question the benefit of performing lots of meas'mts. ARC seems to adjust for most all but the most difficult conditions. So, regardless of mic position (unless it is too low or into a seat back), or the _variable of seats_ (with eight chairs, i can have thousands of permutations, depending on how many people are "in residence"), there seems little advantage in performing more than a basic meas'mt, and then allowing ARC to do its thing.

I am working with Art Noxon on room conditioning, and he finds standing wave issues at 25kz; 50 kz etc. this MAY explain the hot front speaker readings that arc finds. Too soon to know, as it is a work in progress.

I've not bothered to post the newest files, as they look pretty much like the other 10 files.

again. my thanks









walt


----------



## spiderv6

I need a new processor (my Tag Mclaren is dying) and have discovered the D2 - a brand that is totally new to me.


I love everything I hear about it. I desperately want to go and audition one. And that's the issue. I live in Central NJ and the two authorised dealers closest to me don't have one and are not sure that they will be getting one in anytime soon.


Is this a common problem when trying to audition these machines? If anyone has any NJ dealer tips I'd love to hear them.......


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/14649248
> 
> 
> I live in Central NJ and the two authorised dealers closest to me don't have one and are not sure that they will be getting one in anytime soon.
> 
> 
> Is this a common problem when trying to audition these machines? If anyone has any NJ dealer tips I'd love to hear them.......



Yes, unfortunately that seems to be the case quite often.


I was in the same boat: My local 'authorized' Athem dealer does not carry the D2 or the higher end stuff because "they're very expensive and we don't sell many" (their words). They can order one for me if I want to buy one however. (sheesh, how helpful of them)


I wish someone would explain to me why I should honour Paradigm/Anthem being so protective of their dealer regions when what seems like a large number of the dealers have zero interest in helping their customers to begin with.


I can drive for a few hours to a different city and actually listen to a D2 but the dealer's not technically allowed to sell it to me due to the dealer region agreements. The irony is that it's CHEAPER if I go to these other authorized dealers who actually have units to listen to.


Kal


----------



## Eric Carroll




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/14649388
> 
> 
> I wish someone would explain to me why I should honour Paradigm/Anthem being so protective of their dealer regions when what seems like a large number of the dealers have zero interest in helping their customers to begin with.



It is not just Anthem/Paradigm with this problem. I can't count the number of audio/video dealers who tell me: "yes I am a dealer, no I don't have that, but I can order it if you want".


I would have thought dealer status comes with inventory & display requirements especially for the higher end stuff.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Eric Carroll* /forum/post/14649716
> 
> 
> It is not just Anthem/Paradigm with this problem. I can't count the number of audio/video dealers who tell me: "yes I am a dealer, no I don't have that, but I can order it if you want".
> 
> 
> I would have thought dealer status comes with inventory & display requirements especially for the higher end stuff.



I agree fully that it is almost impossible to audition pieces of high end equipment any more. Here in Cental Florida it is even worse since the trend seems to be towards custom installers who do not have any showroom at all. Though I do have one dealer in town that carries the statement line and my speaker of choice (B&W), but I think that is just chance.


All that being said, really the only way to really audition a piece of equipment is in your house. Just look at the impact something like ARC can make in your room and then think about auditioning equipment in a dealership. The best you might be able to at a dealership is to get an A/B impression.


----------



## Dinger23

Boy am I glad I waited to upgrade my D1. A few months ago I got a PS3 and quickly found out I needed HDMI. Started to get the wheels in motion to upgrade my D1 and today I stubble across the news of the newest upgrade. Before I was putting off the upgrade now I cannot wait!!!


----------



## kal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Eric Carroll* /forum/post/14649716
> 
> 
> It is not just Anthem/Paradigm with this problem. I can't count the number of audio/video dealers who tell me: "yes I am a dealer, no I don't have that, but I can order it if you want".



Entirely correct. Sorry, I shouldn't single out Paradigm/Anthem. They're one of many doing this.



> Quote:
> I would have thought dealer status comes with inventory & display requirements especially for the higher end stuff.



It does not appear to. They told that they did not intend to ever get a D2 in as they're simply too expensive and they own all their stock (this was a couple of years back but I doubt things have changed at all).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14649969
> 
> 
> I agree fully that it is almost impossible to audition pieces of high end equipment any more. Here in Cental Florida it is even worse since the trend seems to be towards custom installers who do not have any showroom at all. Though I do have one dealer in town that carries the statement line and my speaker of choice (B&W), but I think that is just chance.



I went through the same pain 2 years ago when I upgraded my speakers. I was looking at high end stuff. Most places had the brands I was interested but simply did not carry the highest end line as it was too expensive to stock. How the *@&%*! do you expect to sell *any* if you never have any for people to listen too? Sheesh!



> Quote:
> All that being said, really the only way to really audition a piece of equipment is in your house. Just look at the impact something like ARC can make in your room and then think about auditioning equipment in a dealership. The best you might be able to at a dealership is to get an A/B impression



That is true. Also gone however is the in-home trial that many shops used to offer. Prices and margins have gotten so cut-throat that even the high end shops are not offering it any more (at least that's been my experience).


Kal


----------



## CycloneMike

See answers from Nick at Anthem

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
CycloneMike,

I've never seen anything in writing from Anthem regarding what happens to the warranties when you upgrade.


I suggest you send an email to Anthem tech support asking for details. When you find out, please do post here as I'm sure there are others who could use this information as well.

--Bob
Regarding warranty on upgrades - the person buying the upgrade gets a warranty on the new parts i.e. 2 year warranty on the video board and 3 years on the audio DSP. The rest of the unit continues with the warranty it had, if any. Warranty is transferable only via an authorized Anthem dealer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* 
E-mail sent, along with my question as to why the ARC did not use a flatter low frequency curve for my music set-up (only 2 front speakers - no sub).


I like the sound, but feel that the bass could be better and the measurements show my system could handle higher dB at the low frequencies.


Mike


See attached.
Regarding ARC - known issue to be fixed. The workaround for now:


- measure the music configuration as a 2.1-channel configuration (not 2.0)


- open the file in advanced mode


- in the targets menu change the front crossover to the lowest setting (25 Hz)


- calculate


- upload


- in the setup menu, disable the sub for the music configuration.

 

MUSIC-08200107.doc 90.5k . file


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Eric Carroll* /forum/post/14649716
> 
> 
> It is not just Anthem/Paradigm with this problem. I can't count the number of audio/video dealers who tell me: "yes I am a dealer, no I don't have that, but I can order it if you want".
> 
> 
> I would have thought dealer status comes with inventory & display requirements especially for the higher end stuff.




I had the same problem in Montreal Region. Not a single dealer had the D2 in Demo. I managed to get a demo from somewhere else. Same with Bryston SP2.0. I managed to get a demo while traveling in the US.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14651073
> 
> 
> I had the same problem in Montreal Region. Not a single dealer had the D2 in Demo. I managed to get a demo from somewhere else. Same with Bryston SP2.0. I managed to get a demo while traveling in the US.



The sole dealer in Seattle (and I think the entire state of Washington) has quit being a dealer. So my closest dealer now is in a different state (Oregon). Thankfully I don't need a demo, but I have no more dealer support...


----------



## spiderv6

OK, thanks guys, sounds like this is just the way it is.


That's one heck of a sales strategy Anthem........


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kal* /forum/post/14649388
> 
> 
> Yes, unfortunately that seems to be the case quite often.
> 
> 
> I was in the same boat: My local 'authorized' Athem dealer does not carry the D2 or the higher end stuff because "they're very expensive and we don't sell many" (their words). They can order one for me if I want to buy one however. (sheesh, how helpful of them)
> 
> 
> I wish someone would explain to me why I should honour Paradigm/Anthem being so protective of their dealer regions when what seems like a large number of the dealers have zero interest in helping their customers to begin with.
> 
> 
> I can drive for a few hours to a different city and actually listen to a D2 but the dealer's not technically allowed to sell it to me due to the dealer region agreements. The irony is that it's CHEAPER if I go to these other authorized dealers who actually have units to listen to.
> 
> 
> Kal



Frustrating, isn't it?


Especially when you hear so much talk about how we need to support our local HT dealers who actually provide a valuable hands on service vs online vendors. Well, often they don't, and the D2 is a perfect example of that.


----------



## bluemark81

I just purchased a Bel Canto power amp and hooked it up using XLR's to my AVM50. There was such a hum/hiss from my speakers, I was a bit concerned.


So, I tried the RCA's instead and the hiss/hum is significantly less than with the XLR's, but still quite noticeable. As I sit here typing this, I am 10 feet from the nearest speaker and I can hear the hiss/hum (System is on with no source playing). Switching to the XLR's again and it is significantly louder.


I have noticed that it gets louder when I turn my Anthem on. It seems to go from a hiss to a hum (more like interference).


Anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Just as a follow up to the fairly recent discussion here about having the player do the audio decoding vs sending bitstream, an issue was discovered with the bitstream on the upcoming release of Iron Man. There was no problem if the player did the decoding internally apparently:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post14652711 


Oh, and another reason to decode in the player:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1008620


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14650973
> 
> 
> See answers from Nick at Anthem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding warranty on upgrades - the person buying the upgrade gets a warranty on the new parts i.e. 2 year warranty on the video board and 3 years on the audio DSP. The rest of the unit continues with the warranty it had, if any. Warranty is transferable only via an authorized Anthem dealer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding ARC - known issue to be fixed. The workaround for now:
> 
> 
> - measure the music configuration as a 2.1-channel configuration (not 2.0)
> 
> 
> - open the file in advanced mode
> 
> 
> - in the targets menu change the front crossover to the lowest setting (25 Hz)
> 
> 
> - calculate
> 
> 
> - upload
> 
> 
> - in the setup menu, disable the sub for the music configuration.



Good info on both items. Thanks for posting this!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14652709
> 
> 
> I just purchased a Bel Canto power amp and hooked it up using XLR's to my AVM50. There was such a hum/hiss from my speakers, I was a bit concerned.
> 
> 
> So, I tried the RCA's instead and the hiss/hum is significantly less than with the XLR's, but still quite noticeable. As I sit here typing this, I am 10 feet from the nearest speaker and I can hear the hiss/hum (System is on with no source playing). Switching to the XLR's again and it is significantly louder.
> 
> 
> I have noticed that it gets louder when I turn my Anthem on. It seems to go from a hiss to a hum (more like interference).
> 
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions?



Check out the hum FAQ sticky thread in the audio theory forum here for help isolating this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=322698 


Also there is a known issue with some AVM-50/ARC units generating a "hiss" just before audio starts. It is not a "hum" -- i.e., it doesn't sound like 60Hz power line interference -- and doesn't continue after audio starts. If you are hearing this "hiss" contact Anthem tech support.


"Hum" is most often a ground loop (see that FAQ) allowing 60Hz power line interference to get into your system. "Hiss", other than this AVM50/ARC problem, is most often radio frequency interference.


The single most common source of power line interference is the feed line from a cable or satellite TV system. Temporarily disconnect the feed wire coming out of the wall to see if that's your problem.


A very common source of "hiss" interference is light dimmer devices -- often in the listening room, but sometimes anywhere in the house.


Interference like this travels along the cable shields from device to device so you have to be careful how you decide where it is originating. Ground loop (power line) interference also has to have an exit back to ground to complete the circuit or you won't hear it. That's why 3-prong to 2-prong cheater plugs often help.


XLR cables typically have the shield connected at both ends. It really only NEEDS to be connected at one end. Sometimes opening up the XLR plug at one end and disconnecting the shield at that end is the easiest way to deal with interference traveling into an amplifier.

--Bob


----------



## BillW

Anthem Custom Install Dealers (dealers that are not requiredto have a showroom like a Magnolia does) are still required to keep on hand 1 processor and 1 amplifier (preferably a D2 and a P5). I think it is wise, not just to loan out to possible purchasers, but to have a backup in case a customers unit does fail. All you have to do is load their settings into the loaner. Switching out the cables is usually harder!


Bill


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14656361
> 
> 
> Check out the hum FAQ sticky thread in the audio theory forum here for help isolating this:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=322698
> 
> 
> Also there is a known issue with some AVM-50/ARC units generating a "hiss" just before audio starts. It is not a "hum" -- i.e., it doesn't sound like 60Hz power line interference -- and doesn't continue after audio starts. If you are hearing this "hiss" contact Anthem tech support.
> 
> 
> "Hum" is most often a ground loop (see that FAQ) allowing 60Hz power line interference to get into your system. "Hiss", other than this AVM50/ARC problem, is most often radio frequency interference.
> 
> 
> The single most common source of power line interference is the feed line from a cable or satellite TV system. Temporarily disconnect the feed wire coming out of the wall to see if that's your problem.
> 
> 
> A very common source of "hiss" interference is light dimmer devices -- often in the listening room, but sometimes anywhere in the house.
> 
> 
> Interference like this travels along the cable shields from device to device so you have to be careful how you decide where it is originating. Ground loop (power line) interference also has to have an exit back to ground to complete the circuit or you won't hear it. That's why 3-prong to 2-prong cheater plugs often help.
> 
> 
> XLR cables typically have the shield connected at both ends. It really only NEEDS to be connected at one end. Sometimes opening up the XLR plug at one end and disconnecting the shield at that end is the easiest way to deal with interference traveling into an amplifier.
> 
> --Bob



I think I figured out where the interferences are coming from. I unplugged everything and starting from scratch, I discovered that each of the following devices introduce interference (hum or buzz) into my speakers:


Panasonic plasma tv;

HD Satellite receiver;

Sony PS3.


Now, how do I solve this? Well, I just ordered this device for each: http://www.ebtechaudio.com/humxdes.html 


Let's hope they work.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14656745
> 
> 
> I think I figured out where the interferences are coming from. I unplugged everything and starting from scratch, I discovered that each of the following devices introduce interference (hum or buzz) into my speakers:
> 
> Let's hope they work.



I use the 8 Channel Hum Eliminator Rackmount *(Model HE-8)*


I had that INSTALLED years before I got my D2 when I was

a Lexicon User.


But I also use GENERATED and ISOLATED Power for all my

rack mounted gear. The Combination of the Ebtech and

The Power Generators/Conditioners removes all HUM.


You can see the HUM Eliminator in the *LEFT* rack and the

3 Power Conditioners in the BOTTOM of the Right Rack


----------



## AnthemAVM

Played with ARC today, and it is sounding better. I changed the targets on my subs and surrounds.


Your thoughts?




















Thanks


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14656805
> 
> 
> I use the 8 Channel Hum Eliminator Rackmount *(Model HE-8)*
> 
> 
> I had that INSTALLED years before I got my D2 when I was
> 
> a Lexicon User.
> 
> 
> But I also use GENERATED and ISOLATED Power for all my
> 
> rack mounted gear. The Combination of the Ebtech and
> 
> The Power Generators/Conditioners removes all HUM.
> 
> 
> You can see the HUM Eliminator in the *LEFT* rack and the
> 
> 3 Power Conditioners in the BOTTOM of the Right Rack



Nice looking setup drhankz. Hopefully the little device I ordered works for me.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14656928
> 
> 
> Nice looking setup drhankz. Hopefully the little device I ordered works for me.



Ebtech is good stuff


But with my setup - 24,000 watts of audio.


I got to the limits to make sure there is NO HUM


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14656745
> 
> 
> I think I figured out where the interferences are coming from. I unplugged everything and starting from scratch, I discovered that each of the following devices introduce interference (hum or buzz) into my speakers:
> 
> 
> Panasonic plasma tv;
> 
> HD Satellite receiver;
> 
> Sony PS3.
> 
> 
> Now, how do I solve this? Well, I just ordered this device for each: http://www.ebtechaudio.com/humxdes.html
> 
> 
> Let's hope they work.



You'll see Ebtech stuff used a lot in recording studios. It's pretty effective in my experience.


----------



## AnthemAVM

When you guys watch football in a 5.1 input, do you put any processing on it, or watch it with none?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14660948
> 
> 
> When you guys watch football in a 5.1 input, do you put any processing on it, or watch it with none?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I have a 5.1 speaker setup so None is the only choice. Well not quite, I also leave THX off.


There have been some times when either the network or the local stations are doing something screwy to juice up the surrounds excessively. If so, I can temporarily lower the surround level using the audio adjustments via the remote. But usually I just live with it. Louder surround sound does make it easier to ignore the announcers.


---------------------------------------------------------


On the charts that you posted above, what did you change in the Targets?


I don't see any real problems, but it does look to me like you might have pushed the Max EQ Frequency target up a bit too high based on the residual oscillations left in the Calculated curve for the Center speaker.


A number of your speakers Measure pretty weak above 10KHz. If you can improve their treble response a bit (perhaps by adjusting how they are pointed) you'll give ARC less work to do up there and you may be able to use that high frequency limit. Otherwise, do some experimental calculations reducing that a bit to see what you gain in additional smoothness of the Calculated curves lower down in frequency.

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14656805
> 
> 
> I use the 8 Channel Hum Eliminator Rackmount *(Model HE-8)*
> 
> 
> I had that INSTALLED years before I got my D2 when I was
> 
> a Lexicon User.
> 
> 
> But I also use GENERATED and ISOLATED Power for all my
> 
> rack mounted gear. The Combination of the Ebtech and
> 
> The Power Generators/Conditioners removes all HUM.
> 
> 
> You can see the HUM Eliminator in the *LEFT* rack and the
> 
> 3 Power Conditioners in the BOTTOM of the Right Rack



Interesting rack of equipment. Did you get adapters to convert all your interconnects to 1/4" plugs for the Ebtech, or did you get custom cables that are terminated in them?


Also, interesting racing simulator. Do you own a Viper?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/14666019
> 
> 
> Interesting rack of equipment. Did you get adapters to convert all your interconnects to 1/4" plugs for the Ebtech, or did you get custom cables that are terminated in them?
> 
> 
> Also, interesting racing simulator. Do you own a Viper?



Yes - I have adapters for the Ebtech.


Yes - the New England Viper Club has their HOLIDAY

party at our house every December [GRIN]!


Gran Turismo5 Prologue is Awesome - using the PS3 and the Big Screen.


This Year's Party - I will have two Driving Simulators for the Party.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14666067
> 
> 
> Yes - I have adapters for the Ebtech.
> 
> 
> Yes - the New England Viper Club has their HOLIDAY
> 
> party at our house every December [GRIN]!
> 
> 
> Gran Turismo5 Prologue is Awesome - using the PS3 and the Big Screen.
> 
> 
> This Year's Party - I will have two Driving Simulators for the Party.



That's interesting that you attack the hum problem at the interconnect level, not the AC level. Never thought of handling it that way. I'd be tempted to get one, but I have all the AC components routed through common UPS units, so I haven't developed and ground loops that I've noticed. So not having a hum issue, I guess it makes no sense to use extra equipment to eliminate hum. But it is an interesting looking piece of equipment.


Can't get used to simulators, so I just do the real thing.

Had a lot of fun playing with a Viper (then humbling him) at Sebring last year. No one got any good pictures of it, though. Heck of a lot of power in that car.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/14666452
> 
> 
> That's interesting that you attack the hum problem at the interconnect level, not the AC level. Never thought of handling it that way. I'd be tempted to get one, but I have all the AC components routed through common UPS units, so I haven't developed and ground loops that I've noticed. So not having a hum issue, I guess it makes no sense to use extra equipment to eliminate hum. But it is an interesting looking piece of equipment.
> 
> 
> Can't get used to simulators, so I just do the real thing.
> 
> Had a lot of fun playing with a Viper (then humbling him) at Sebring last year. No one got any good pictures of it, though. Heck of a lot of power in that car.


*NO NO NO - AC is the MOST Important in my BOOK.*


I use *CinePro Power Generators*


I have 100 AMPS of CinePro Conditioned Power.


BTW - UPS systems do not do what Power Conditioning systems do.


The Ebtech is just to get anything that might be picked up in Cables.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14666574
> 
> *NO NO NO - AC is the MOST Important in my BOOK.*
> 
> 
> I use *CinePro Power Generators*
> 
> 
> I have 100 AMPS of CinePro Conditioned Power.
> 
> 
> BTW - UPS systems do not do what Power Conditioning systems do.
> 
> 
> The Ebtech is just to get anything that might be picked up in Cables.



We're on the same page. AC >> low voltage interconnects.


My big issue down here is a tremendous number of transient power outages (


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/14666849
> 
> 
> We're on the same page. AC >> low voltage interconnects.
> 
> 
> My big issue down here is a tremendous number of transient power outages (


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You also need good grounding on any feed coming into the system -- cable and satellite TV feeds being the big offenders here.

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc

And the good SAME ground, so that there isn't any potential difference between the two.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14667447
> 
> 
> You also need good grounding on any feed coming into the system -- cable and satellite TV feeds being the big offenders here.
> 
> --Bob



I ISOLATE them before they get into the rack.


There are NO GROUNDS to be found.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14668014
> 
> 
> I ISOLATE them before they get into the rack.
> 
> 
> There are NO GROUNDS to be found.



That's a good solution as well, so long as your isolation transformers don't weaken the signal at some frequencies to the point that you get bad reception on some channels.


Of course you want them grounded where they enter your house ANYWAY to protect from lighting.


All that said, shouldn't you be getting your ARC upgrade soon? I'll be very interested to see what it makes of your system.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14668131
> 
> 
> That's a good solution as well, so long as your isolation transformers don't weaken the signal at some frequencies to the point that you get bad reception on some channels.
> 
> 
> Of course you want them grounded where they enter your house ANYWAY to protect from lighting.
> 
> 
> All that said, shouldn't you be getting your ARC upgrade soon? I'll be very interested to see what it makes of your system.
> 
> --Bob



Yes they are grounded as they enter the house.


They are Actively Amplified at entry.


Signal Levels on a per home-run leg are measured and

adjusted with a Spectrum Analyzer. The Signals are as

near perfect as can be.


I just called and the dealer is closed on Monday's.

Open Tuesday at 11 AM.


----------



## venpra

NO POSTS since 4:00 pm yesterday....

What is the world coming to?

Where is Bob???


Bob - Please post something if for no other reason than to assure your fans that you are around and kicking. At least, throw some of those jumping emoticons at us, the huddled masses.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *venpra* /forum/post/14675432
> 
> 
> NO POSTS since 4:00 pm yesterday....
> 
> What is the world coming to?
> 
> Where is Bob???
> 
> 
> Bob - Please post something if for no other reason than to assure your fans that you are around and kicking. At least, throw some of those jumping emoticons at us, the huddled masses.



I can post an update on my ARC order.


I called today. They said they had 4 of them on order and

have heard NOTHING from Anthem. They said they would

call Anthem and ask where they are.


Rather Boring News - if you ask me


----------



## venpra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14675491
> 
> 
> I can post an update on my ARC order.
> 
> 
> I called today. They said they had 4 of them on order and
> 
> have heard NOTHING from Anthem. They said they would
> 
> call Anthem and ask where they are.
> 
> 
> Rather Boring News - if you ask me



Pheew... I am relieved!!!

That was 24 hours without activity on what used to be one of the most heavily traffficed forums around.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *venpra* /forum/post/14675575
> 
> 
> Pheew... I am relieved!!!
> 
> That was 24 hours without activity on what used to be one of the most heavily traffficed forums around.



Things are stabilizing - I guess.


Either that or everyone has lost so much in the MARKET

they are all out DRINKING. I know I will be in 90 Minutes


----------



## Mark Paquette

I just got a reply back from Anthem that I can get my AVM30 upgraded to an AVM50 with ARC for $2,800. Think I might take the plunge. Will be very difficult to ship my baby off to Canada though.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Paquette* /forum/post/14675918
> 
> 
> I just got a reply back from Anthem that I can get my AVM30 upgraded to an AVM50 with ARC for $2,800. Think I might take the plunge. Will be very difficult to ship my baby off to Canada though.



What about the v2 OPTION?


----------



## Mark Paquette




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14675955
> 
> 
> What about the v2 OPTION?



Good point, but didn't ask.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *venpra* /forum/post/14675432
> 
> 
> NO POSTS since 4:00 pm yesterday....
> 
> What is the world coming to?
> 
> Where is Bob???
> 
> 
> Bob - Please post something if for no other reason than to assure your fans that you are around and kicking. At least, throw some of those jumping emoticons at us, the huddled masses.



I'm having too much fun playing with Mac OS X 10.5.5, which is one rootin' tootin' kick-ass of a bug fix release!


(Just finishing up a new, full Time Machine backup. Posting this from my iPhone. )

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Paquette* /forum/post/14675918
> 
> 
> I just got a reply back from Anthem that I can get my AVM30 upgraded to an AVM50 with ARC for $2,800. Think I might take the plunge. Will be very difficult to ship my baby off to Canada though.



Mark, the v2 version is so close you really should consider holding off. Heck, even if it gets delayed to next year you'll likely be better off waiting than having to pay for two upgrades with two shipments back to the factory.

--Bob


----------



## Mark Paquette




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14676149
> 
> 
> Mark, the v2 version is so close you really should consider holding off. Heck, even if it gets delayed to next year you'll likely be better off waiting than having to pay for two upgrades with two shipments back to the factory.
> 
> --Bob



Good point Bob. I've waited this long, what's another few months.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Paquette* /forum/post/14676049
> 
> 
> Good point, but didn't ask.



I'd hate to be spending all that money and not get v2.


----------



## AnthemAVM

I have been playing with ARC and I am warming up to it. The sound is much differn't, and can not wait to play with it a little more.


I am still thinking I am going to buy an Intergra 9.9 and do some side by side test.


Michael


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14678050
> 
> 
> I have been playing with ARC and I am warming up to it. The sound is much differn't, and can not wait to play with it a little more.
> 
> 
> I am still thinking I am going to buy an Intergra 9.9 and do some side by side test.
> 
> 
> Michael



This is a strange idea.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14678131
> 
> 
> This is a strange idea.



I hang out with Lexicon owners, what else should I say?


----------



## gchuva

How many subwoofers can be connected to the D2? I don't care about balanced connections, but am interested in knowing how many can be separately calibrated by ARC.


----------



## TREVLAN

GCHUVA


2 SUBS , can be connected.


Trev


----------



## EL

last time I checked you can connect 4 subs (2 using XLR and 2 using RCA) but they all share the same sub settings.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/14679267
> 
> 
> GCHUVA
> 
> 
> 2 SUBS , can be connected.
> 
> 
> Trev



Between the balance and unbalanced can't you connect more than 2. You would of course have to adjust for the 6dB difference in output. Also you can daisy chain some subs or use splitters and add more.


The question GCHUVA was asking was how many you can independently adjust using ARC and to be honest I don't remember it asking in the sofware how many subs you have but I only have one and therefore might not have looked for it. Also I would think that you would want to adjust the total bass in the room and not as independent sub adjustments, so I think you would want to set the total bass (.1 channel) response to the same reference volume as the mains (75dB - 85dB) and then run ARC.


If you are running subs with some kind of Room EQ (DD, F113/112, B15) or the SMS-1 system, then I would think you might want to run that for each sub to get rid of some of the room issues so that ARC had less to do in terms achieving a targeet response.


----------



## mikefl52

In another Forum (HT compnents more than $20000) LEVESQUE gives some more details about the v2 version of the D2 (and I assume D1 & AVM).

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4&highlight=d2 


On this forum I have seen quite a few threads that this does not offer much over the D2, however I would like to try and understand that a little more.


It appears to have a new version of the video processor with more capability to improve the picture (noise reduction, etc). Just how much of a change is the new video processor and what does it really offer over the current processor?


It offers 1.3c input and we can debate for ever over in processor audio decoding vs. in play decoding. But this also offers deep color for the future, useful or not, who can tell at the moment.


The thing that I think is most overlooked is the change of the audio DSP chips from the motorola to the dual core with the increased capacity this gives. I think that this might offer more potential in terms of ARC. It appears that ARC currently has to make decisions on what to do in order to try and achieve that target curve, as you increase the max frequency beyond 5KHz it appears to do less correction below 5KHz for instance.


So the question I have is will the new DSP chips allow ARC to better achieve that target curve with the increased processing capability? Any thoughts?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14679386
> 
> 
> In another Forum (HT compnents more than $20000) LEVESQUE gives some more details about the v2 version of the D2 (and I assume D1 & AVM).
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4&highlight=d2
> 
> 
> On this forum I have seen quite a few threads that this does not offer much over the D2, however I would like to try and understand that a little more.
> 
> 
> It appears to have a new version of the video processor with more capability to improve the picture (noise reduction, etc). Just how much of a change is the new video processor and what does it really offer over the current processor?
> 
> 
> It offers 1.3c input and we can debate for ever over in processor audio decoding vs. in play decoding. But this also offers deep color for the future, useful or not, who can tell at the moment.
> 
> 
> The thing that I think is most overlooked is the change of the audio DSP chips from the motorola to the dual core with the increased capacity this gives. I think that this might offer more potential in terms of ARC. It appears that ARC currently has to make decisions on what to do in order to try and achieve that target curve, as you increase the max frequency beyond 5KHz it appears to do less correction below 5KHz for instance.
> 
> 
> So the question I have is will the new DSP chips allow ARC to better achieve that target curve with the increased processing capability? Any thoughts?



If you're buying new, the D2V2 is awesome.


If you're upgrading, and you want 7.1 LPCM, you have to get the D2V2.


If you're upgrading, and you want the HD audio codecs in your pre-pro, you have to get the D2V2.


Otherwise, it's a lot of nice-to-have's for the upgrader.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14678149
> 
> 
> I hang out with Lexicon owners, what else should I say?



A good reason to stay the course. There is nothing more fun in group then being the black sheep.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14679386
> 
> 
> In another Forum (HT compnents more than $20000) LEVESQUE gives some more details about the v2 version of the D2 (and I assume D1 & AVM).
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4&highlight=d2
> 
> 
> On this forum I have seen quite a few threads that this does not offer much over the D2, however I would like to try and understand that a little more.
> 
> 
> It appears to have a new version of the video processor with more capability to improve the picture (noise reduction, etc). Just how much of a change is the new video processor and what does it really offer over the current processor?
> 
> 
> It offers 1.3c input and we can debate for ever over in processor audio decoding vs. in play decoding. But this also offers deep color for the future, useful or not, who can tell at the moment.
> 
> 
> The thing that I think is most overlooked is the change of the audio DSP chips from the motorola to the dual core with the increased capacity this gives. I think that this might offer more potential in terms of ARC. It appears that ARC currently has to make decisions on what to do in order to try and achieve that target curve, as you increase the max frequency beyond 5KHz it appears to do less correction below 5KHz for instance.
> 
> 
> So the question I have is will the new DSP chips allow ARC to better achieve that target curve with the increased processing capability? Any thoughts?



New DSPs=more processing power that could be use for ARC. I don't believe Anthem is done developping ARC. We shall see further improvement of this.


----------



## DEHAAS

I am also using multiple subs, and my ARC kit should arrive any day now. Will ARC calculate a single curve for all subwoofers, or will they be treated separately? Also, will the Anthem be able to set different crossovers for each subwoofer?


One last thing. You can adjust phase for the subwoofer in the Anthem. Is it possible to adjust phase for each subwoofer?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DEHAAS* /forum/post/14680164
> 
> 
> I am also using multiple subs, and my ARC kit should arrive any day now. Will ARC calculate a single curve for all subwoofers, or will they be treated separately? Also, will the Anthem be able to set different crossovers for each subwoofer?
> 
> 
> One last thing. You can adjust phase for the subwoofer in the Anthem. Is it possible to adjust phase for each subwoofer?



All 4 sub output sockets on the Anthem send out the same signal. Always. Any adjustment you make in the Anthem affects all 4 of them the same way -- they can not be adjusted separately. The only difference is the standard, 6dB voltage difference between the RCA and XLR outputs -- see Section 2.2 of the Manual.


ARC does not change that. ARC hears all 4 subs together as one subwoofer and adjusts that "one subwoofer" accordingly.


[IMPORTANT NOTE: When using ARC, set your Speaker Configuration to "1 subwoofer" even if you are actually using more than 1. See Section 3.3 of the Manual.]


[NOTE: See Section 3.9 of the Manual -- "Balanced Out" -- for an alternate way to use the Balanced Center2/Sub2 outputs as balanced L/R outputs for Zone 2.]


---------------------------------------------------------


When setting up for multiple subs that means you will need to use the volume and phase controls built into all but one of them -- you can use the Anthem's controls for any one and then adjust the others up or down from that using their internal controls. Generally folks will find it less confusing to just use the internal controls in ALL of their subs and leave the Anthem settings at the default positions.


When setting the sub volumes, you power up only one at a time and then target a lower volume from each so that when they are all powered up you get a combined volume level around 75dB SPL. For example, typically with 2 subs you would adjust the internal volume control on each to achieve a 73dB SPL reading. When they are played together you will get roughly 75dB SPL. [This is assuming you've already set the Noise Level properly in the Anthem for 75dB SPL and have set the sub volume trim in the Anthem to 0dB.] When ARC does its volume trim adjustments, it will set the volume trim for the combined set of subwoofers up or down from 0dB so that the combined subwoofers are together producing the required volume.


Similarly you need to set the phase separately for each subwoofer using its internal phase control. Again you do this with only one sub powered up at a time. Using a phase test tone from a calibration DVD you then adjust each subwoofer in turn to be in phase with the Left Front speaker. When all subs are in phase with the LF speaker then they are also in phase with each other.


Since ARC will hear all of the subs together when it does its Measurement, you must do *BOTH* this volume balancing *AND* this phase adjustment before you do your ARC Measurement.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14679386
> 
> 
> In another Forum (HT compnents more than $20000) LEVESQUE gives some more details about the v2 version of the D2 (and I assume D1 & AVM).
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4&highlight=d2
> 
> 
> On this forum I have seen quite a few threads that this does not offer much over the D2, however I would like to try and understand that a little more.
> 
> 
> It appears to have a new version of the video processor with more capability to improve the picture (noise reduction, etc). Just how much of a change is the new video processor and what does it really offer over the current processor?
> 
> 
> It offers 1.3c input and we can debate for ever over in processor audio decoding vs. in play decoding. But this also offers deep color for the future, useful or not, who can tell at the moment.
> 
> 
> The thing that I think is most overlooked is the change of the audio DSP chips from the motorola to the dual core with the increased capacity this gives. I think that this might offer more potential in terms of ARC. It appears that ARC currently has to make decisions on what to do in order to try and achieve that target curve, as you increase the max frequency beyond 5KHz it appears to do less correction below 5KHz for instance.
> 
> 
> So the question I have is will the new DSP chips allow ARC to better achieve that target curve with the increased processing capability? Any thoughts?



Mike,

The write up LEVESQUE quoted in that post is the official Anthem press release from CEDIA.


To get caught up on what we know so far, read the posts in this thread beginning with this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post14589926 


You'll need to read at least several pages beyond that to get the basics.


You'll find what we know on pricing, on the new video processor chip, on new features we think will be offered using that new chip, on the value of 12 bit processing in the chip even if you AREN'T using Deep Color sources or display, on the extra power of the new DSP chips, and on the physical changes in the back panel and internal layout of the v.2.


At this point it is not yet clear what Anthem will do with the extra processing power the new DSPs provide -- beyond bitstream decoding of course. We certainly expect that Anthem will provide enhancements to ARC as time goes on, but no details have leaked out yet.

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14680985
> 
> 
> Mike,
> 
> The write up LEVESQUE quoted in that post is the official Anthem press release from CEDIA.
> 
> 
> To get caught up on what we know so far, read the posts in this thread beginning with this post:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post14589926
> 
> 
> You'll need to read at least several pages beyond that to get the basics.
> 
> 
> You'll find what we know on pricing, on the new video processor chip, on new features we think will be offered using that new chip, on the value of 12 bit processing in the chip even if you AREN'T using Deep Color sources or display, on the extra power of the new DSP chips, and on the physical changes in the back panel and internal layout of the v.2.
> 
> 
> At this point it is not yet clear what Anthem will do with the extra processing power the new DSPs provide -- beyond bitstream decoding of course. We certainly expect that Anthem will provide enhancements to ARC as time goes on, but no details have leaked out yet.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks for the info.


I am sure that with the introduction of the v2 it is time for me to upgrade my D1 which I have had for quite some time now. The reason I have not done so in the past was because I did not have any HDMI dependent components, however now I have a new Pioneer TV and a number of components with HDMI out it's time to upgrade, despite having to be without my D1 for a number of weeks.


This is quite a major upgrade (rebuild) for my D1 (more than the previous D1-HD upgrade would have been) and so I wish they would actually do some sort of buy back program so I wouldn't have to be without my D1 while it is being upgraded. I would certainly pay more than the probable upgrade price for that convenience.


Anyway Anthem has my name "on file" so that when the upgrade becomes available they will let me know. They mentioned November, but I am guessing it will probably be more like January for upgrades.


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14682043
> 
> 
> This is quite a major upgrade (rebuild) for my D1 (more than the previous D1-HD upgrade would have been) and so I wish they would actually do some sort of buy back program so I wouldn't have to be without my D1 while it is being upgraded. I would certainly pay more than the probable upgrade price for that convenience.



Although I don't expect Anthem to offer a direct buy back, I wouldn't be at all surprised to hear some Anthem dealers are offering attractive terms for trade-in if you purchase a new D2 v.2.


I'm trying to recall now how dealers handled that when the original D2 launched. My vague recollection is that dealers were all over the map, with some doing aggressive trade-in stuff and others not wanting to take that on at all.


---------------------------------


The actual work needed to convert a D1 to a D2 v.2 is really not much different from that needed to convert a D1 to the original D2. Both require disassembly so that the back panel can be replaced and the new video board mounted (which includes the HDMI stuff). The additional work is the replacement of the DSP board, plus testing.


So I suspect the time "in shop" doing the upgrade would be pretty similar. For most people who have done D1 to D2 upgrades or AVM-30 to AVM-50 upgrades, the time in transit each way was longer than the time in shop actually doing the work. Keep in mind that if you don't live in Canada, this will require a stop in Customs each way -- which can add up to a week each way to the actual shipping time. I suspect all that will be true with the v.2 upgrades as well.


-----------------------------------


In the case of the D2, there was a substantial delay before upgrades were offered to D1 customers at all. A somewhat shorter delay occurred between first shipments of ARC bundled with D2 and availability of ARC upgrades for existing customers.


On the other hand, AVM-50/ARC bundles and ARC upgrades for AVM-50 customers happened at the same time just recently.


This time, Nick tells me they are actually trying to fire up the v.2 upgrades at the same time the new units ship. We'll just have to see if they can pull that off. He also says they want AVM-50 v.2 to happen at the same time that D2 v.2 happens.


So far, the only public statement from Anthem has been with respect to NEW (not upgrade) D2 v.2 units. I think we can expect that if any snags develop, new unit shipments will get priority over turning on any upgrade programs. And by the way, that might be ANOTHER good reason to consider a trade-in through your dealer.

--Bob


----------



## Mark Paquette

Reply that I received from Anthem about being able to upgrade my AVM-30 to AVM-50 v.2:


"That's the plan but I don't expect details for 2-3 months, and I suspect the price will be north of $3K (it hasn't been set and likely won't be before production begins). It remains to be seen which would be better for you:


- upgrade the AVM 30 to v2 including ARC. Estimated $3300 including shipping, plus around 4 weeks down time depending on your location.


- trade-in or sell the AVM 30 and use proceeds towards new AVM 50 v2 with ARC. This may not end up costing much more than the above and there's no down time with trade-ins. The faceplate will also have the latest logos."


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14678149
> 
> 
> I hang out with Lexicon owners, what else should I say?



Say "congratulations". One of the regular posters in this thread (Mark Fishman - FilmMixer) won an Emmy Award last night for mixing the HBO 'John Adams' miniseries.


Sanjay


----------



## obie_fl

Whooo hoo way to go Marc.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dang! And well deserved, too!


The crowd goes WILD!


..........









........
















.....























...



































































--Bob


----------



## gchuva

What about distances? Does the D2 calibrate for the distance of the subwoofer? And if so, only for two?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gchuva* /forum/post/14684677
> 
> 
> What about distances? Does the D2 calibrate for the distance of the subwoofer? And if so, only for two?



The D2 has only one distance setting for the subwoofer regardless of how many subs you are actually using. ARC dies not change that. The workaround is to place multiple subs roughly equidistant from the main listening position.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gchuva* /forum/post/14684677
> 
> 
> What about distances? Does the D2 calibrate for the distance of the subwoofer? And if so, only for two?



No, you have to manually input the actual distance in the setup menu. I think this is more accurate and easy to do. I have 4 subs and I just put the distance of the sub near my main speakers.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14686396
> 
> 
> No, you have to manually input the actual distance in the setup menu. I think this is more accurate and easy to do. I have 4 subs and I just put the distance of the sub near my main speakers.



If you have multiple subs shouldn't you use the phase control on the sub (assuming it has one and not just a polarity switch) to essentially make sure the timing is correct at the listening position for each sub. I am not sure what you would set on the D2 for the distance, but maybe the same as the Front L/R (as you indicated). Alternately I guess you could set the distance initially on the D2 for one sub say and then make sure all the others have the correct phase with that one using the sub phase control.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/14683407
> 
> 
> Say "congratulations". One of the regular posters in this thread (Mark Fishman - FilmMixer) won an Emmy Award last night for mixing the HBO 'John Adams' miniseries.
> 
> 
> Sanjay



Congratulation Marc!!!!


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14687451
> 
> 
> Congratulation Mark!!!!



Wups, I just realized I misspelled Marc's name too.


Sanjay


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/14687911
> 
> 
> Wups, I just realized I misspelled Marc's name too.
> 
> 
> Sanjay



That's all right Sanjoy.










Thanks for the comments... it was a real honor and I am really proud.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/14687911
> 
> 
> Wups, I just realized I misspelled Marc's name too. Just kiding!
> 
> 
> Sanjay



Know if you just realized your processor is an overpriced door stop! Just kidding!


Congrats to Marc


----------



## sdurani




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14687970
> 
> 
> Thanks for the comments... it was a real honor and I am really proud.



You gonna bring the statue to the meet next month?


Sanjay


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14687970
> 
> 
> That's all right Sanjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the comments... it was a real honor and I am really proud.



Where is the YouTube Video of you getting the Award?


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sdurani* /forum/post/14688103
> 
> 
> You gonna bring the statue to the meet next month?
> 
> 
> Sanjay



Did I miss annoucement about a metet?


Michael


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14688122
> 
> 
> Where is the YouTube Video of you getting the Award?



It will be broadcast this Saturday on E! at 5pm PST/8pm EST.


It's a cut down of the 3 1/2 hour ceremony, so don't know if I'll be there.. but I'll send you a youtube link if it happens










Here's a picture... for those that have never met me, I'm the serious looking one on the left.









Stage Photos from the Emmys.. Stunned Nervous AVS Member on the left!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14688353
> 
> 
> It will be broadcast this Saturday on E!
> 
> 
> It's a cut down of the 3 1/2 hour ceremony, so don't know if I'll be there.. but I'll send you a youtube link if it happens



I set up my TiVo in a minute to GRAB it.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14688353
> 
> 
> It will be broadcast this Saturday on E!
> 
> 
> It's a cut down of the 3 1/2 hour ceremony, so don't know if I'll be there.. but I'll send you a youtube link if it happens



I can't find it on 9/27/08 on E!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14688471
> 
> 
> I can't find it on 9/27/08 on E!



That's BECAUSE I'm a week Ahead - I found it and have the TiVo Set.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14688353
> 
> 
> Stage Photos from the Emmys.. *Stunned Nervous* AVS Member on the left!



Man do I know what you mean! I just won the ''Best Business Award'' in town 5 days ago, in front of 300 persons, and I was SOOOO nervous! Since it was a ''surprise'' award (population is voting for their favorite place...), I hadn't plan a speech... It was terrible... I was totally stunned...










But it's nothing compared to your award.










Congratulations!


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14688353
> 
> 
> It will be broadcast this Saturday on E! at 5pm PST/8pm EST.
> 
> 
> It's a cut down of the 3 1/2 hour ceremony, so don't know if I'll be there.. but I'll send you a youtube link if it happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture... for those that have never met me, I'm the serious looking one on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stage Photos from the Emmys.. Stunned Nervous AVS Member on the left!



Marc,

Nice Pic!! I am sure you were not so serious celebrating later that evening.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14686943
> 
> 
> If you have multiple subs shouldn't you use the phase control on the sub (assuming it has one and not just a polarity switch) to essentially make sure the timing is correct at the listening position for each sub. I am not sure what you would set on the D2 for the distance, but maybe the same as the Front L/R (as you indicated). Alternately I guess you could set the distance initially on the D2 for one sub say and then make sure all the others have the correct phase with that one using the sub phase control.



The problem is that "phase" controls typically only work in the frequencies near the crossover. That's because making a control that offers fine adjustment and which works uniformly across the entire frequency range is too expensive.


That's why there are also "polarity" and distance adjustments. Polarity is just like reversing the wires. It operates across the entire frequency range uniformly. Distance and polarity together assure that bass and higher frequency elements arrive at the ear at the same time, and that bass arriving from different subs is matched in phase across the entire sub frequency range (presuming the subs have similar response characteristics). This keeps the subs from canceling each other. Meanwhile phase makes sure that those elements that are playing through both the sub and the mains (due to the crossover not being a hard cutoff but rather a blend of sound from both) don't cancel each other.


If you have multiple subs, generally you will want normal polarity if the cone of the sub is pointing the same direction as the front speakers and reverse polarity if it is pointing the opposite direction (e.g., a sub in the rear of the room). Then you set distance for something like the average distance of your set of subs from the primary listening position. Obviously this works best if all your subs are equidistant. Then you set phase to match each sub in turn to the Left Front speaker in the crossover region. The LF speaker is commonly used as the surrogate for the entire set of main speakers. If you have a sub to the side, you might have to try both polarities (with phase separately set up for each) and see which polarity gives you the best results. In general, it is usually best to try both polarities in any event.


Now you obviously won't get a precise phase match from every sub to every main speaker because the relative distances are different. The sub will always be closer to some speaker. But that's the nature of multi-channel audio. You set things up as above and it usually works just fine.


The relative speaker distance settings are much more important for the main speakers as the higher frequencies are more localizable. If you get the distance settings wrong the focus of sound from two speakers will be shifted to one side or the other. But for the bass tones coming from the sub it is much less of a problem since it isn't localizable. It "fills the room" from all directions at once. [Technically, it pressurizes the room -- setting up standing waves -- so the ear doesn't hear it coming from any one direction.]


And that means that it is generally not a problem to have one subwoofer distance setting even though you actually have more than one sub. A ballpark average distance setting for the sub will work.


With more than one sub it is more important to get the relative "polarity" set up right between them, and to get the "phase" right with respect to the mains (the Left Front speaker) independently for each of them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14687970
> 
> 
> That's all right Sanjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the comments... it was a real honor and I am really proud.



They LIKE you. They really LIKE you!











Now that you're a celeb, I hope you don't forget us little people.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14688353
> 
> 
> It will be broadcast this Saturday on E! at 5pm PST/8pm EST.
> 
> 
> It's a cut down of the 3 1/2 hour ceremony, so don't know if I'll be there.. but I'll send you a youtube link if it happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture... for those that have never met me, I'm the serious looking one on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stage Photos from the Emmys.. Stunned Nervous AVS Member on the left!



Who knew he'd clean up so good in a tux?










--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/14688878
> 
> 
> Marc,
> 
> Nice Pic!! I am sure you were not so serious celebrating later that evening.



I figured you were the one with the AWARD.


In that picture - he hasn't given it to you yet


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14689478
> 
> 
> I figured you were the one with the AWARD.
> 
> 
> In that picture - he hasn't given it to you yet



Not to go off topic, but they have 3 awards back stage to give to the presenter which they rotate.. after your speech the "trophy" models take you back stage, take the award back and send you upstairs.. there you sign for and get your statue, take pictures, get interviewed, etc.. they send you the engraved band later.


Here's mine.



















Thanks again to all for the nice replies and well wishes.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14689520
> 
> 
> Not to go off topic, but they have 3 awards back stage to give to the presenter which they rotate.. after your speech the "trophy" models take you back stage, take the award back and send you upstairs.. there you sign for and get your statue, take pictures, get interviewed, etc.. they send you the engraved band later.
> 
> 
> Thanks again to all for the nice replies and well wishes.



Thanks Marc for the picture of the AWARD and the TALL Guy Receiving it.


----------



## jayray

Marc,

I'd like to thank you for helping to demystifying the codec arguments and very non scientific observations of some members of this large forum. It is an honour for us to know you own some of the same equipment as do we. Must mean we made good decisions.









Congrats on the award!

John


----------



## Randall Morton

Congratulations Marc. I loved the series. I'm going to have to set my recorder.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14688944
> 
> 
> They LIKE you. They really LIKE you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that you're a celeb, I hope you don't forget us little people.
> 
> --Bob



Marc's been a celeb for quite awhile already, hob nobbing with Hollywood bigwigs like Rob Reiner. Yet, he is still willing to hang out with us peons on AVS. Not only that, he offered to have peons here show up at his work so we can hob nob with the Hollywood bigwigs too! Ask me how I know..........


----------



## barhoram

Anyone using a Pioneer 94HD with thier D2?


I was viewing Kill Bill Blu Ray last evening, and rememberd the bass seemed weak as compared to the SD DVD.


I popped in The DVD and definitely noticed the bass was lower. The 94HD is set to pass DD and let the Anthem decode for the SD-DVD. It passes the multichannel PCM to the Anthem for Blu-Ray disks. The only audio settings that are in the player are settings for large vs small speakers (I have them set to large per the 94HD thread) and PCM was Auto (This is set to PCM). With the settings, LFE seems weak. I don't see any way to boost the .LFE level in the player. Using DVE Blu Ray, is there a way to boost (calibrate to proper level) the .LFE to the 94HD input only?? Is anyone else seeing this issue and/or resolved it?


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14695120
> 
> 
> Anyone using a Pioneer 94HD with thier D2?
> 
> 
> I was viewing Kill Bill Blu Ray last evening, and rememberd the bass seemed weak as compared to the SD DVD.
> 
> 
> I popped in The DVD and definitely noticed the bass was lower. The 94HD is set to pass DD and let the Anthem decode for the SD-DVD. It passes the multichannel PCM to the Anthem for Blu-Ray disks. The only audio settings that are in the player are settings for large vs small speakers (I have them set to large per the 94HD thread) and PCM was Auto (This is set to PCM). With the settings, LFE seems weak. I don't see any way to boost the .LFE level in the player. Using DVE Blu Ray, is there a way to boost (calibrate to proper level) the .LFE to the 94HD input only?? Is anyone else seeing this issue and/or resolved it?



There are issues with some BD players not outputting the correct LFE level over PCM or Analog outs. I know for my player (Denon 3800BDCI) you have to go in and specifically boost the LFE channel by 10dB to correct for this. I am unsure about the Pioneer 94HD player.


I would ask this question on the 94HD forum to get a more specific answer since I don't believe there is anything that you can do with your Anthem to adjust for just the LFE being off for just this one component, except for going in and boosting the subwoofer output by 5-10dB when you watch BDs, but this is a pretty ugly way to have to do it.


If you are using ARC I am not sure that the capability to boost certain channels is even available (might be disabled) since it would have the potential to mess up the whole balance between the speakers.


----------



## old2

thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/14695120
> 
> 
> Anyone using a Pioneer 94HD with thier D2?
> 
> 
> I was viewing Kill Bill Blu Ray last evening, and rememberd the bass seemed weak as compared to the SD DVD.
> 
> 
> I popped in The DVD and definitely noticed the bass was lower. The 94HD is set to pass DD and let the Anthem decode for the SD-DVD. It passes the multichannel PCM to the Anthem for Blu-Ray disks. The only audio settings that are in the player are settings for large vs small speakers (I have them set to large per the 94HD thread) and PCM was Auto (This is set to PCM). With the settings, LFE seems weak. I don't see any way to boost the .LFE level in the player. Using DVE Blu Ray, is there a way to boost (calibrate to proper level) the .LFE to the 94HD input only?? Is anyone else seeing this issue and/or resolved it?



What firmware version do you have installed in your D2?


LFE level problems in the D2 were fixed in the V1.11 firmware that came out in November, 2006.


Also make sure you have the player set to send multichannel PCM. If it is set to send 2-channel PCM by mistake then the stereo down-mix it produces in order to do that will necessarily compress the bass. While listening, press Select repeatedly on the D2 remote. One of the displays that comes up will show you the audio channels that are active in the audio input.


Also make sure you haven't turned on any of the "temporary" audio adjustments in the D2 -- the ones accessible via the buttons on the remote. These are remembered per source device AND per type of audio input from that source, so it is easy to think you have cleared out one you were playing with when in fact it is still in there (for a different device or audio type).


You can remove ALL those temporary audio settings at once as follows:


1) Go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and Save User Settings. Be sure to accept this change by changing the No to Yes with the arrow keys and then press Select to make it happen.


2) Now do a Load Factory Defaults. You may lose video at this point but you can continue via the Front Panel display.


3) Now do a Load Saved User Settings.


This will restore all of your settings except that the "temporary" audio settings will be returned to normal.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab

Anyone know the general policy on pre-ordering? My dealer is suggesting I pre-order now for the D2v2 to avoid the price increase, but I'm a little reluctant to plop down $7K on something I might not see until next year (he didn't say 100% down, I'm just assuming).


Any thoughts/experience on pre-ordering?


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14695348
> 
> 
> Anyone know the general policy on pre-ordering? My dealer is suggesting I pre-order now for the D2v2 to avoid the price increase, but I'm a little reluctant to plop down $7K on something I might not see until next year (he didn't say 100% down, I'm just assuming).
> 
> 
> Any thoughts/experience on pre-ordering?



I suspect that your dealer will be unable to place an order for the new D2v2 with Anthem until Anthem sets a firm price.


It sounds to me like your dealer is trying to take your $$$ a bit to early in the game.


----------



## eXcessive

Ok,


So I'm looking at Anthem for my first Pre/Pro, I was holding out for the AV50v2 with ARC.


So now that its slowly on its way I have a question. Is the difference between the AV50 & D2 substantial enough for me to go to the D2.


For perspective I'm by no means floating in money and its 1 hell of a purchase for me to even get the AVM50 but if the difference is substantial enough I might just go for the D2 your thoughts are appreciated?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eXcessive* /forum/post/14695698
> 
> 
> Ok,
> 
> 
> So I'm looking at Anthem for my first Pre/Pro, I was holding out for the AV50v2 with ARC.
> 
> 
> So now that its slowly on its way I have a question. Is the difference between the AV50 & D2 substantial enough for me to go to the D2.
> 
> 
> For perspective I'm by no means floating in money and its 1 hell of a purchase for me to even get the AVM50 but if the difference is substantial enough I might just go for the D2 your thoughts are appreciated?



The AVM-50 is no slouch, and with ARC it is even better. We have MANY happy AVM-50 owners posting here.


The D2 is, in my opinion, in the "near exotic" category. To some degree that means to really get the value from it you also need to step up with your power amps and your speaker choices.


If you already think your amps and speakers are pretty good I would say you will not regret spending the extra money to get the D2 v.2.


However, you will get more bang for the buck upgrading speakers first if they need it.

--Bob


----------



## Kishore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14688353
> 
> 
> It will be broadcast this Saturday on E! at 5pm PST/8pm EST.
> 
> 
> It's a cut down of the 3 1/2 hour ceremony, so don't know if I'll be there.. but I'll send you a youtube link if it happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture... for those that have never met me, I'm the serious looking one on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stage Photos from the Emmys.. Stunned Nervous AVS Member on the left!



WOW CONGRATS MARC- you da man! You are a true Gentleman!










Cheers,

Kishore


----------



## eXcessive

Bob, thanks for the frank advice. I believe the AVM50 is more than enough for my needs since I feel my speakers are the weak point of my rig.


My speakers are Energy Connisseurs (older models pre china/mass market)


C-C3 Center

C-9 Fronts

RC-8C - In Ceiling sides

RC-6W - In wall rears

S12.3 Subs (x2)


I've gotten good performance from these speakers and felt that my current electronics (Integra DTR9.1 U2) was the weakest link at the moment hence my thinking to move to the Anthem.


My current plan would be to go with the AVM50v2 + MCA 50 + Old integra for the back 2 channels.


If I had to guess I feel my speakers don't rate Statement D2 quality? If I'm wrong though Then let me know.


----------



## gblack

I just received and setup the ARC upgrade to my D1-HD. Below are the charts showing the effect - appreciate feedback on the results. My speakers are Mirage Bi-poles and so I wonder if that explains the roll-off in high freq.


Overall though, I'm quited pleased with the improvement. The sound is less echoey now and the bass much tigher. Also I notice the soundstage seems to have moved 'forward' toward the screen with less emphasis on surrounds (though they are definitely there as I can attest from my demo of Master and Commander Blu-ray!







)


----------



## dlynch34

Bob or anyone,


I have a d2 and JBL studio L speakers.. Im not up on speakers what would be a recommended speaker for the D2 if you all had to guess?... are my ok.. or is there a preference on this?


thanks


Don







> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14696095
> 
> 
> The AVM-50 is no slouch, and with ARC it is even better. We have MANY happy AVM-50 owners posting here.
> 
> 
> The D2 is, in my opinion, in the "near exotic" category. To some degree that means to really get the value from it you also need to step up with your power amps and your speaker choices.
> 
> 
> If you already think your amps and speakers are pretty good I would say you will not regret spending the extra money to get the D2 v.2.
> 
> 
> However, you will get more bang for the buck upgrading speakers first if they need it.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Heads up: Turn OFF PS3 Dynamic Range Control audio setting!*


Since we have quite a few people in this thread using a PS3 as their Blu-Ray player, I want to post this heads up: It has been discovered that some Dolby TrueHD audio tracks -- the new Iron Man track in particular -- mistakenly activate the DRC function in whatever device is doing the decoding.


In the case of the PS3, the DRC function (found in Blu-Ray Settings) is set to Automatic by factory default, and will indeed mistakenly activate when playing such improperly authored Blu-Ray audio tracks. The result is a significant and unwarranted reduction in dynamics in the audio.


The PS3 FAQ sticky thread has been updated to tell people that they should turn the DRC setting to OFF in their PS3s and just leave it that way. You really shouldn't need dynamic range control in the player anyway for Blu-Ray playback. If you really need a reduction in dynamics for late night listening for example, you can use the dynamics control in the D2 available via the remote.


This is not just a PS3 problem. It is also affecting decoding receivers like the Onkyos.


Since the D2 does not decode such tracks, there is no corresponding setting change needed in the D2 itself. However, when the D2 v.2 becomes available, we'll have to find that same setting and make sure it, too, is turned OFF.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eXcessive* /forum/post/14699490
> 
> 
> Bob, thanks for the frank advice. I believe the AVM50 is more than enough for my needs since I feel my speakers are the weak point of my rig.
> 
> 
> My speakers are Energy Connisseurs (older models pre china/mass market)
> 
> 
> C-C3 Center
> 
> C-9 Fronts
> 
> RC-8C - In Ceiling sides
> 
> RC-6W - In wall rears
> 
> S12.3 Subs (x2)
> 
> 
> I've gotten good performance from these speakers and felt that my current electronics (Integra DTR9.1 U2) was the weakest link at the moment hence my thinking to move to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> My current plan would be to go with the AVM50v2 + MCA 50 + Old integra for the back 2 channels.
> 
> 
> If I had to guess I feel my speakers don't rate Statement D2 quality? If I'm wrong though Then let me know.



I really don't know those speakers well enough to give you good advice.


But one thing you might try to do is see if you can arrange an in-home comparison of the AVM-50 and the D2 through your Anthem dealer. If the dealer sniffs a potential up-sale of the D2 he might be willing to oblige. That would at least give you a shot at seeing whether you can hear the difference with your current gear.


Also, if you EXPECT you will be updating your speakers soon, it might be more cost effective to step up to the D2 now. These are tough choices.


My gut reaction is that you'll be plenty happy with the AVM-50.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/14699641
> 
> 
> I just received and setup the ARC upgrade to my D1-HD. Below are the charts showing the effect - appreciate feedback on the results. My speakers are Mirage Bi-poles and so I wonder if that explains the roll-off in high freq.
> 
> 
> Overall though, I'm quited pleased with the improvement. The sound is less echoey now and the bass much tigher. Also I notice the soundstage seems to have moved 'forward' toward the screen with less emphasis on surrounds (though they are definitely there as I can attest from my demo of Master and Commander Blu-ray!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



You're looking pretty good, but there's room for improvement.


First your subwoofer is a bit anemic. It looks like it's spec'd down to 40Hz. You might want to consider replacing it with one that can go deeper (of proper size for your room). Right now you are missing out on some of the "subsonics" found in modern audio tracks.


Second you should consider whether you need to adjust how your speakers are pointed. If they are high up or otherwise not directed into the main listening area that could explain some of the variation you are seeing at the highest frequencies. Speakers are "directional" at higher frequencies, and the uniformity of their spread of treble sound is usually worse in the vertical direction than in the horizontal. The Measured results you are seeing COULD be characteristic of your model of speakers, but check how they are angled and tilted first.


Third I think your setup is a good candidate for raising the Max EQ Frequency Target from the default 5KHz. You don't appear to have any serious room problems and your speakers Measure pretty decently except for the highest frequencies, so I think ARC would react well to being asked to apply some of its resources up higher.


You don't have to re-Measure to do that. Just open up a copy of your current file in ARC Advanced mode, view the Targets window, make the change in the Max EQ Frequency field, accept that change and do a re-Calculation. What you are looking for is a higher setting that helps the Calculated curves get closer to the Target line up there without also introducing too much variation in the lower frequencies of the Calculated curve.


My guess would be you could get away with 12KHz or even 15KHz. You can do several Calculations to compare the resulting curves.


When you decide on a setting you like, re-Upload the results of that Calculation.


Trust your ears, of course. If it sounds better than your current results then it IS better.


But if you can mellow out the high frequency variations in the Measured curves a bit by adjusting speaker angle/tilt, that's a better first step.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/14699956
> 
> 
> Bob or anyone,
> 
> 
> I have a d2 and JBL studio L speakers.. Im not up on speakers what would be a recommended speaker for the D2 if you all had to guess?... are my ok.. or is there a preference on this?
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> Don



I'm sorry, but I can't offer you any useful advice on speaker selection.


Perhaps some of the speaker experts here will chime in.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14702815
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, but I can't offer you any useful advice on speaker selection.
> 
> 
> Perhaps some of the speaker experts here will chime in.
> 
> --Bob



Anthem and Paradigm Sigs pair nicely.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/14699956
> 
> 
> Bob or anyone,
> 
> 
> I have a d2 and JBL studio L speakers.. Im not up on speakers what would be a recommended speaker for the D2 if you all had to guess?... are my ok.. or is there a preference on this?
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> Don



I don't think there is a definitive speaker for the D2 - just as there isn't a definitive speaker for 'music' or 'home theater' that most can agree on. It's a personal issue.


That said, the D2 has been reviewed and described as a very *accurate and detailed* prepro. I would agree with that, and that is what I prefer in my listening (I come from a professional music/audio/recording background and value hyper-accuracy above all else).


My own experience with JBLs has not been great. Some good ones, some mediocre and hyped ones. (The only great ones were huge studio speakers, but years ago and they probably wouldn't stack up against what is available now).


I own B&W XT series. I am reasonably happy but know there are far better speakers for far more money. However, they are accurate and uncolored to a fault. B&W has a reputation for accuracy.


As important as the speakers is the amp you use to drive them! I am currently a fan of ICEpower Class D designs (I use Rotel's but there are others).


To sum up -


D2 - accurate

Speakers - should also be accurate (not hyped or 'warm')

Amp - needs to support the accuracy of the other components.


In my opinion, if you *start out accurate*, it behooves you to maintain that all the way through the signal chain.


(Disclaimer: this post is IMHO!







)


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14702796
> 
> 
> You're looking pretty good, but there's room for improvement.
> 
> 
> First your subwoofer is a bit anemic. It looks like it's spec'd down to 40Hz. You might want to consider replacing it with one that can go deeper (of proper size for your room). Right now you are missing out on some of the "subsonics" found in modern audio tracks.
> 
> 
> Second you should consider whether you need to adjust how your speakers are pointed. If they are high up or otherwise not directed into the main listening area that could explain some of the variation you are seeing at the highest frequencies. Speakers are "directional" at higher frequencies, and the uniformity of their spread of treble sound is usually worse in the vertical direction than in the horizontal. The Measured results you are seeing COULD be characteristic of your model of speakers, but check how they are angled and tilted first.
> 
> 
> Third I think your setup is a good candidate for raising the Max EQ Frequency Target from the default 5KHz. You don't appear to have any serious room problems and your speakers Measure pretty decently except for the highest frequencies, so I think ARC would react well to being asked to apply some of its resources up higher.
> 
> 
> You don't have to re-Measure to do that. Just open up a copy of your current file in ARC Advanced mode, view the Targets window, make the change in the Max EQ Frequency field, accept that change and do a re-Calculation. What you are looking for is a higher setting that helps the Calculated curves get closer to the Target line up there without also introducing too much variation in the lower frequencies of the Calculated curve.
> 
> 
> My guess would be you could get away with 12KHz or even 15KHz. You can do several Calculations to compare the resulting curves.
> 
> 
> When you decide on a setting you like, re-Upload the results of that Calculation.
> 
> 
> Trust your ears, of course. If it sounds better than your current results then it IS better.
> 
> 
> But if you can mellow out the high frequency variations in the Measured curves a bit by adjusting speaker angle/tilt, that's a better first step.
> 
> --Bob



Bob as always, your posts are so helpful. Thanks for the feedback.


Yes the sub is about 8 years old - a 10" sealed box Mirage. And if I recall the specs, 40hz is probably where it rolls off. Now thanks to the indisputable evidence from the ARC graphs and your comments, I can now plead the "I need a new sub" argument to the congress of the household!










As for the highs, I will def try upping the max ARC freq - I didn't know I could do that without resampling. That's pretty cool. The speakers themselves are aimed towards the listening area. But tweeters are maybe a couple of inches below ear height and hence arc mic height. I will play with both position and changing the max freq in the ARC config.


thanks again


g


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/14702980
> 
> 
> Yes the sub is about 8 years old - a 10" sealed box Mirage. And if I recall the specs, 40hz is probably where it rolls off. Now thanks to the indisputable evidence from the ARC graphs and your comments, I can now plead the "I need a new sub" argument to the congress of the household!



While congress is debating, you might also want to try an experiment where you position your existing subwoofer closer to a corner -- preferably a masonry wall corner. That will couple it more strongly to the room, particularly for the lowest frequencies (called "boundary gain"). That may give you some useful boost down there.


But a 10" sub is probably just not going to be able to move enough air to properly pressurize the listening room at those frequencies. And moving it into a corner may reveal room response problems that ARC would just have to correct away anyway.


Some people also use multiple, smaller subs to achieve the total pressurization they want. Still, 10" (even multiple 10") is going to have to huff pretty hard to move air at 20Hz.


So the real answer probably is a larger sub that's also designed to go lower.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14702815
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, but I can't offer you any useful advice on speaker selection.
> 
> 
> Perhaps some of the speaker experts here will chime in.
> 
> --Bob



I can tell you that the Anthem D2, Simaudio, and Dynaudio work together nicely!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/14699956
> 
> 
> Bob or anyone,
> 
> 
> I have a d2 and JBL studio L speakers.. Im not up on speakers what would be a recommended speaker for the D2 if you all had to guess?... are my ok.. or is there a preference on this?
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> Don



I had PSB Bronze front speakers and a C5 center channel. This sounded very good. After getting the AVM 50, I upgraded my speakers to Paradigm Signature 100 and Signiture CC-690 center. The Servo 15 came later and it sounds fabulous. I have also heard these same speakers at my dealer with the D2 and P2, P5 amps. It wasn't ARC'd so hard to say. It did sound amazing but two diff rooms make it hard to compare. I have an A2 and A5 paradigm amps. Not sure how much you have to spend, but this combo works very well. Have a friend with a D2 and even he was impressed









John


----------



## ManWithAPlan

The speaker discussion would be remiss if it didn't include B&W for discussion. I have 703 fronts that I love for instance, but up and down the line you really can't go wrong. But to each his own on speaker choices, there are literally hundreds of very good speakers out there today, perhaps too many to choose from 


At the risk of getting a bit further off-topic, I thought I'd let you guys know that B&W has a Music Club now that highlights their infatuation with audiophile quality recordings. They are highlighting Peter Gabriel's recording studio in the UK, and recording various artists prior to their labels "launching" them. You get 1 new artist/album each month in FLAC or Apple Lossless formats (your choice), and they are yours to download and own, not rent, and needless to say, the lossless formats and the pains that B&W goes to in its recordings makes for some amazing audio quality. You don't have to pay necessarily, just do the Trial for 3 months and hear the kind of stuff they're making available...check it out here if you're interested:

http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/display.aspx?infid=3550 


There are also some good podcast discussions on audio quality on the site, and how sound engineering has really changed for the worse in some cases, led by the movement toward lossy MP3 and AAC format music. Nice to see B&W is certainly standing their ground and trying to offer something wholly different.


I have these FLAC files being served up by my NAS device to my uPnP-based Olive Symphony in the living room/home theater, and the D2 presents them beautifully of course 


Enjoy,

Brian


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14703120
> 
> 
> While congress is debating, you might also want to try an experiment where you position your existing subwoofer closer to a corner -- preferably a masonry wall corner. That will couple it more strongly to the room, particularly for the lowest frequencies (called "boundary gain"). That may give you some useful boost down there.--Bob



Yeah I already moved the sub to a corner soon after setting up my home theater living room. The corner loading did help give a boost, but the room is large (about 2250 cu ft and it has openings to a kitchen and dining room that I can't close off - so the total volume is much larger still.


I think it's just a case of too small a driver and sub for the volume of air.


EDIT: room is 2250 cubic ft.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/14699956
> 
> 
> Bob or anyone,
> 
> 
> I have a d2 and JBL studio L speakers.. Im not up on speakers what would be a recommended speaker for the D2 if you all had to guess?... are my ok.. or is there a preference on this?
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> Don



Most a/v experts advise that your speakers be the first 'big' puchase you make. You can then build you system up to match the quality of your speakers. Since the speakers are the last audio link in the a/v chain they will convey the weaknesses or strengths of your processor, amps and source equipment.

In the same way, your video monitor is the last link in the video chain. If you have an inferior video display no matter what you have feeding it, even a blu-ray fed through a D2, the picture will be inferior.

The good news about initially spending the lion's share of your a/v dollars on speakers is that the technology of speakers has changed very little over the years. That is not to say there haven't been improvements, but a very good set of speakers bought 20 years ago is still a very good set of speakers. The same cannot be said for most other of the components in your a/v system as there seems to be advancements, especially with digital components, almost weekly.( A big plus for the Anthem pre/pro's is their commitment to staying current thru updates).

Another important consideration is system synergy. Not all good components sound good together. Some pre/pro's play better with some amps than others, for example. One solution is to is to stay with equipment that share the same audio philosophy. If you prefer hearing what the artist(s) put onto their music/ movies then you should buy speakers and components that don't color the information. You will see adjectives in the reviews of such equipment and speakers as 'honest', 'transparent', etc., and not 'warm' or 'bright'. One way to best assure that you get synergy is to stay within one company with your processor, amps and speakers if possible since the same sonic philosophy will permeate the company. It just so happens that Anthem and Paradigm speakers are owned by Sonic Frontiers, and they sound very good together.

I own a D2 with A2 and A5 amps and Paradigm Signature speakers and am very pleased. There are other companies that shre the same philosophy and should be considered for your purchase.

This is not a cheap hobby, but you can build a very good system for a reasonable amount of money if you buy after careful study and audtioning of components that are well matched together. I do believe that your speakers should be your first major upgrade.

Happy hunting!

Tom


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/14707225
> 
> 
> Yeah I already moved the sub to a corner soon after setting up my home theater living room. The corner loading did help give a boost, but the room is large (about 2250 sq ft and it has openings to a kitchen and dining room that I can't close off - so the total volume is much larger still.
> 
> 
> I think it's just a case of too small a driver and sub for the volume of air.



Our Home Theater family room(4000 cu. ft.) also has 2 openings and is only a fraction the size of your room. We started with one Servo-15 and felt we were lacking in bass, wife(go figure) suggested investing in a second sub. We now have 2 Servo-15's and the punch is now there when its suppose to be.


IMHO that is one big room you have for 1 10" sub.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Big Bad Wolf brand subwoofers: "I'll huff and I'll puff, and I'll blow your house down!"










--Bob


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/14707737
> 
> 
> Our Home Theater family room(4000 cu. ft.) also has 2 openings and is only a fraction the size of your room. We started with one Servo-15 and felt we were lacking in bass, wife(go figure) suggested investing in a second sub. We now have 2 Servo-15's and the punch is now there when its suppose to be.
> 
> 
> IMHO that is one big room you have for 1 10" sub.



Sorry that should have been 2250 cubic feet!! The room is 13x22x8.5


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14695348
> 
> 
> Anyone know the general policy on pre-ordering? My dealer is suggesting I pre-order now for the D2v2 to avoid the price increase, but I'm a little reluctant to plop down $7K on something I might not see until next year (he didn't say 100% down, I'm just assuming).
> 
> 
> Any thoughts/experience on pre-ordering?



I just talked to a dealer today who was telling me of a 12% price increase coming in October (but he didn't know if it was the 1st or 31st) but said if I put a deposit down now that would lock me in at todays price which he is quoting as $7.5K retail for a V2.


I asked him to confirm prices and dates and give me a call back.


Let me know how you are making out and let's compare notes.......


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


While we are waiting for the new v.2 and more ARC upgrades, what is happening to the promised update that would solve the HDMI connection to HTPC's?

I still have to reboot my HTPC every time I want to project something.

Any prospect for a solution in the near future?


Thank you


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/14708167
> 
> 
> I just talked to a dealer today who was telling me of a 12% price increase coming in October (but he didn't know if it was the 1st or 31st) but said if I put a deposit down now that would lock me in at todays price which he is quoting as $7.5K retail for a V2.
> 
> 
> I asked him to confirm prices and dates and give me a call back.
> 
> 
> Let me know how you are making out and let's compare notes.......



I'm likely not going to put anything down now. Unless it's just a couple hundred bucks or something, I can't see floating my dealer $3-7K for 2-4 months, just to save ~$500.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/14704060
> 
> 
> The speaker discussion would be remiss if it didn't include B&W for discussion. I have 703 fronts that I love for instance, but up and down the line you really can't go wrong. But to each his own on speaker choices, there are literally hundreds of very good speakers out there today, perhaps too many to choose from
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy,
> 
> Brian



Brian, I have worked my way up to 803D's & the HTM2D center. Still have my old N805's for surrounds. Some of the new B&W speakers made in (I am afraid to say) China, instead of England sound pretty good to me at their price point.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14708343
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> While we are waiting for the new v.2 and more ARC upgrades, what is happening to the promised update that would solve the HDMI connection to HTPC's?
> 
> I still have to reboot my HTPC every time I want to project something.
> 
> Any prospect for a solution in the near future?
> 
> 
> Thank you



The new HDMI driver stuff has apparently been set aside until they get the v.2 stuff released.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14708443
> 
> 
> I'm likely not going to put anything down now. Unless it's just a couple hundred bucks or something, I can't see floating my dealer $3-7K for 2-4 months, just to save ~$500.



Well me neither. We didn't talk numbers but I'm thinking more like 10% down.....let's see what his story is later in the week.


----------



## muad'dib

Not sure if this has been stated.. but.. would it be cheaper to buy a AVM 40 now or 50 now, and get that upgraded to the V.2, or just buy the new AVM 50 V.2?



Just trying to play with numbers to get the lowest..


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14688122
> 
> 
> Where is the YouTube Video of you getting the Award?


 Becuase Hank asked for it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/14710930
> 
> 
> Not sure if this has been stated.. but.. would it be cheaper to buy a AVM 40 now or 50 now, and get that upgraded to the V.2, or just buy the new AVM 50 V.2?
> 
> 
> 
> Just trying to play with numbers to get the lowest..



The upgrade prices haven't been finalized yet, but I think the odds are excellent that the cheapest, and soonest to ship, solution is to buy nothing now and buy a new AVM-50 v.2 when it is released.


Obviously this also means that both Anthem and the dealers will be trying hard to get the v.2 shipped as quickly as possible since their sales will dry up between now and then. Product transitions like this can be a real pain for dealers (and the manufacturer) unless the new product ships right quick!











If you can get your dealer to commit to sell you an AVM-50 v.2 (when it ships) at today's AVM-50 pricing (or lower if the v.2 price ends up being lower, which is not particularly likely), that would probably be worth putting down a deposit now.


The same logic holds for folks in the market for a new D2 at the moment.

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14711361
> 
> 
> Obviously this also means that both Anthem and the dealers will be trying hard to get the v.2 shipped as quickly as possible since their sales will dry up between now and then. Product transitions like this can be a real pain for dealers (and the manufacturer) unless the new product ships right quick!



I know that these high ticket items are not generally Christmas presents, but I would still think that Anthem would want to target the potential for sales before Christmas just in case. My wife surprised me with some B&W DS8S surround speakers under the tree last year










Even if it is not Christmas the period immediately after is usually busy in the high ticket electronics market. This is when I bought my D1/P5 combo a number of years ago.


So I agree with Bob that they would want to release the v2 versions of the AVM50 and D2 as soon as possible.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14711132
> 
> Becuase Hank asked for it.



Thanks Thanks Thanks Marc for the LINK
























I did TiVo the event but I have not watched it yet to see if it was Televised!


P.S. - I'm glad to see you are a MAC user Marc.


Also Great to hear your wife recovered in-time for the event.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/14703255
> 
> 
> I can tell you that the Anthem D2, Simaudio, and Dynaudio work together nicely!



Nice Setup


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/14704060
> 
> 
> The speaker discussion would be remiss if it didn't include B&W for discussion. I have 703 fronts that I love for instance, but up and down the line you really can't go wrong. But to each his own on speaker choices, there are literally hundreds of very good speakers out there today, perhaps too many to choose from
> 
> 
> At the risk of getting a bit further off-topic, I thought I'd let you guys know that B&W has a Music Club now that highlights their infatuation with audiophile quality recordings. They are highlighting Peter Gabriel's recording studio in the UK, and recording various artists prior to their labels "launching" them. You get 1 new artist/album each month in FLAC or Apple Lossless formats (your choice), and they are yours to download and own, not rent, and needless to say, the lossless formats and the pains that B&W goes to in its recordings makes for some amazing audio quality. You don't have to pay necessarily, just do the Trial for 3 months and hear the kind of stuff they're making available...check it out here if you're interested:
> 
> http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/display.aspx?infid=3550
> 
> 
> There are also some good podcast discussions on audio quality on the site, and how sound engineering has really changed for the worse in some cases, led by the movement toward lossy MP3 and AAC format music. Nice to see B&W is certainly standing their ground and trying to offer something wholly different.
> 
> 
> I have these FLAC files being served up by my NAS device to my uPnP-based Olive Symphony in the living room/home theater, and the D2 presents them beautifully of course
> 
> 
> Enjoy,
> 
> Brian



Cool.


How do you feed your High Rez flac to your D2?


----------



## tngiloy

Bob P.,

A while back you mentioned you had ordered some blu-ray audio discs but I don't remember seeing your evaluation of the discs.

Could you also explain what resolution(right term?) are they recorded at, or can they optimally be recorded at?

Is the D2 or D2v2 able to accept that higher resolution without having to compress it. Does the blu-ray player need to be able to convert the signal to pcm, like the ps3 does for the dolby and dts hd audio, in order to pass it to the D2?

Is this just another way to play sacd's or is blu-ray really an improved format?

Do you think that the record companies will adopt it or are they moving toward 'downloading' compressed audio over the internet.

I'm not sure if this is the right forum for this dicussion, but please indulge me or point me to the right forum.

Tom


Although I adressed this to Bob, anyone can respond.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14712325
> 
> 
> Bob P.,
> 
> A while back you mentioned you had ordered some blu-ray audio discs but I don't remember seeing your evaluation of the discs.
> 
> Could you also explain what resolution(right term?) are they recorded at, or can they optimally be recorded at?
> 
> Is the D2 or D2v2 able to accept that higher resolution without having to compress it. Does the blu-ray player need to be able to convert the signal to pcm, like the ps3 does for the dolby and dts hd audio, in order to pass it to the D2?
> 
> Is this just another way to play sacd's or is blu-ray really an improved format?
> 
> Do you think that the record companies will adopt it or are they moving toward 'downloading' compressed audio over the internet.
> 
> I'm not sure if this is the right forum for this dicussion, but please indulge me or point me to the right forum.
> 
> Tom



Here's the post I made describing what I found on those two discs:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post14558867 


As stated in that post these two discs were DTS-HD MA 7.1 24bit/96Khz. It is not expected that Blu-Ray will add any additional audio formats to service the "audio only" market. In particular it is not expected that single bit DSD will be added. Every current Blu-Ray player will be able to play all "audio only" Blu-Ray discs. They are just regular Blu-Ray discs with a black screen for video (or perhaps a still slide image).


As with all the high res formats, the current D2 requires that the player decode the audio to HDMI LPCM. The D2 v.2 will add the ability to bitstream the formats for decoding in the Anthem.


The current D2 accepts up to 5.1 channels of LPCM at up to 24bit/96KHz (which it then upsamples to 192KHz prior to processing). When the player is doing the decoding, the D2 v.2 will accept up to 7.1 channels of LPCM at up to 24bit/192KHz.


I suspect that high end audio will be marketed both on physical media and for download. I predict regular Blu-Ray discs, and Blu-Ray discs featuring only audio content (such as these two) will essentially knock SACD and DVD-Audio out of the market. These early discs are just the first shot. It will really start happening, I think, for Christmas 2009, with the big push in 2010. Physical media such as audio-only Blu-Ray discs will compete against downloads primarily, I believe, as regards "extras" content that, of course, will play on regular Blu-Ray players but not on upcoming Profile 3.0, "audio-only" Blu-Ray players.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/14708167
> 
> 
> I just talked to a dealer today who was telling me of a 12% price increase coming in October (but he didn't know if it was the 1st or 31st) but said if I put a deposit down now that would lock me in at todays price which he is quoting as $7.5K retail for a V2.
> 
> 
> I asked him to confirm prices and dates and give me a call back.
> 
> 
> Let me know how you are making out and let's compare notes.......



So confirmation today that the price will go up to $8K (everyone knew that I guess) and that Version one and a half will ship starting 15th Oct *without* the new video board which will then be available as a no-cost upgrade "sometime in Q4".


I'm waiting for a full V2 I think.....


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14711361
> 
> 
> The upgrade prices haven't been finalized yet, but I think the odds are excellent that the cheapest, and soonest to ship, solution is to buy nothing now and buy a new AVM-50 v.2 when it is released.



What I am trying to understand is what differences exist between the AVM50 v.2 and the D2v.2 that would justify the price difference (whatever it turns out to be)?


Weren't we told that one reason the D2 cost so much more than the AVM50 was because it had the extra processor that would eventually be used for room correction? Now the AVM50 does room correction (ARC) too.


Did D2 owners get taken for a ride?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/14717465
> 
> 
> What I am trying to understand is what differences exist between the AVM50 v.2 and the D2v.2 that would justify the price difference (whatever it turns out to be)?
> 
> 
> Weren't we told that one reason the D2 cost so much more than the AVM50 was because it had the extra processor that would eventually be used for room correction? Now the AVM50 does room correction (ARC) too.
> 
> 
> Did D2 owners get taken for a ride?



Already asked and answered:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post14595762 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/14716913
> 
> 
> So confirmation today that the price will go up to $8K (everyone knew that I guess) and that Version one and a half will ship starting 15th Oct *without* the new video board which will then be available as a no-cost upgrade "sometime in Q4".
> 
> 
> I'm waiting for a full V2 I think.....



Is he telling you that the video board swap out will be a *DEALER* install?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14717685
> 
> 
> Is he telling you that the video board swap out will be a *DEALER* install?
> 
> --Bob



Sounds Like it - Heck I can do it


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Presumably that means the units will ship with the new back panel in place and the AM/FM module installed in its new, lower location.


If the Audio DSPs are also in place, then, indeed, the video board swap out is not a big deal. Of course that means they need to get a software release that uses the new DSPs and old video board.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14717685
> 
> 
> Is he telling you that the video board swap out will be a *DEALER* install?
> 
> --Bob



He siad "ship it back" for the board swap. I took that to mean to the factory, but i am guessing.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14717672
> 
> 
> Already asked and answered:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post14595762
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I missed that post.


Still....ARC was one of the main selling points to the D2 over the AVM50. "Was" being the key word.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14713417
> 
> 
> Here's the post I made describing what I found on those two discs:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post14558867
> 
> 
> As stated in that post these two discs were DTS-HD MA 7.1 24bit/96Khz. It is not expected that Blu-Ray will add any additional audio formats to service the "audio only" market. In particular it is not expected that single bit DSD will be added. Every current Blu-Ray player will be able to play all "audio only" Blu-Ray discs. They are just regular Blu-Ray discs with a black screen for video (or perhaps a still slide image).
> 
> 
> As with all the high res formats, the current D2 requires that the player decode the audio to HDMI LPCM. The D2 v.2 will add the ability to bitstream the formats for decoding in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> The current D2 accepts up to 5.1 channels of LPCM at up to 24bit/96KHz (which it then upsamples to 192KHz prior to processing). When the player is doing the decoding, the D2 v.2 will accept up to 7.1 channels of LPCM at up to 24bit/192KHz.
> 
> 
> I suspect that high end audio will be marketed both on physical media and for download. I predict regular Blu-Ray discs, and Blu-Ray discs featuring only audio content (such as these two) will essentially knock SACD and DVD-Audio out of the market. These early discs are just the first shot. It will really start happening, I think, for Christmas 2009, with the big push in 2010. Physical media such as audio-only Blu-Ray discs will compete against downloads primarily, I believe, as regards "extras" content that, of course, will play on regular Blu-Ray players but not on upcoming Profile 3.0, "audio-only" Blu-Ray players.
> 
> --Bob



As always, thanks for the in depth explanation.

Tom


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14712294
> 
> 
> Cool.
> 
> 
> How do you feed your High Rez flac to your D2?



I have a Netgear ReadyNAS NV+ NAS device that acts as 2TB of network storage, but also runs several media streaming protocols, including a uPnP server, amongst others. So, my FLAC files are stored on the NAS, and served up by the integrated uPnP server. My Olive Symphony in the home theater/living room acts as the uPnP client and I can search for, choose and play the FLAC files from the Symphony, which is connected via SPDIF to the D2. By the way, the Symphony is also connected as a digital REC OUT device to the D2, so that any input to the D2 can be "tape loop" recorded as an aiff or wav file by the Symphony. Because the Symphony shows up as a network device in my MAC/Windows environment, I can then simply grab the recorded files from the Mac or PC and burn them to CD, archive them on the NAS, etc. It is a great way to make quick recordings of those MTVHD live concerts or the PBS orchestral series for instance, and save them in lossless format. You can even directly burn a CD on the Olive Symphony's CD drive, if you're in a rush to take the recording with you. Because the file is saved as aiff or wav, it is immediately ready for audio CD burning in other words.


Hope that helps,

Brian


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/14717465
> 
> 
> What I am trying to understand is what differences exist between the AVM50 v.2 and the D2v.2 that would justify the price difference (whatever it turns out to be)?
> 
> 
> Weren't we told that one reason the D2 cost so much more than the AVM50 was because it had the extra processor that would eventually be used for room correction? Now the AVM50 does room correction (ARC) too.
> 
> 
> Did D2 owners get taken for a ride?




The analogue section is the real difference. between the two units.


It is not uncommon from product line to migrate new technology developped in their high-end unit to cheaper one. I have espect for anthem for this, they do not let their customer stock in a corner.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/14720040
> 
> 
> I have a Netgear ReadyNAS NV+ NAS device that acts as 2TB of network storage, but also runs several media streaming protocols, including a uPnP server, amongst others. So, my FLAC files are stored on the NAS, and served up by the integrated uPnP server. My Olive Symphony in the home theater/living room acts as the uPnP client and I can search for, choose and play the FLAC files from the Symphony, which is connected via SPDIF to the D2. By the way, the Symphony is also connected as a digital REC OUT device to the D2, so that any input to the D2 can be "tape loop" recorded as an aiff or wav file by the Symphony. Because the Symphony shows up as a network device in my MAC/Windows environment, I can then simply grab the recorded files from the Mac or PC and burn them to CD, archive them on the NAS, etc. It is a great way to make quick recordings of those MTVHD live concerts or the PBS orchestral series for instance, and save them in lossless format. You can even directly burn a CD on the Olive Symphony's CD drive, if you're in a rush to take the recording with you. Because the file is saved as aiff or wav, it is immediately ready for audio CD burning in other words.
> 
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Brian




This is a cool setup. I look at the symphony before building my own digital transport i decided not to preceed with it due to the internal disk storage(they are noisy in general). I don't want a music server but a digital transport that feed its self on my NAS. I rejected the LINN music server for the same reason. I really like the way you used it, it is really what I was looking for. Also, I was not sure if it was supporting FLAC format up to 24/96. It is?


Olive product are really cool I would like then to build a pure digital transport with no harddisk or using a small Solid State Drive.


----------



## brewster201

Hi there has anyone experienced video loss from there Star Choice satellite receiver DVI-Hdmi to the D2. I can only get video using component cables. I called Star Choice and they explained that they had recently downloaded new firmware to be HDCP compliant. Any ideas?


Thanks

Bruce


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14720085
> 
> 
> This is a cool setup. I look at the symphony before building my own digital transport i decided not to preceed with it due to the internal disk storage(they are noisy in general). I don't want a music server but a digital transport that feed its self on my NAS. I rejected the LINN music server for the same reason. I really like the way you used it, it is really what I was looking for. Also, I was not sure if it was supporting FLAC format up to 24/96. It is?
> 
> 
> Olive product are really cool I would like then to build a pure digital transport with no harddisk or using a small Solid State Drive.



The greatest thing about the Olive product is the absolute silence of the hard drive. I have a lounge chair right next to my rack of equipment, and sitting there reading, I actually cannot hear the drive of the Symphony at all and its literally 2 feet from my face. They pride themselves on that, for proper silence during orchestral/symphonic music, etc., blah blah blah. But it sure is nice not to hear anything but the music.


But yeah, the Symphony will play FLAC up to 24/96 just fine. I decided to go this route because I would spend too much time trying to "roll my own", though it can certainly be done in a thousand different ways...Twonky is good, there are other tools, and for other stuff, movies, etc, I rely on the AppleTV. When company comes over, there's nothing like letting them surf through the music/movie/tv show collection in the beautiful GUI of the AppleTV (I rip in 320kbps MP3 as well as the FLAC archive). Neither the Symphony nor any other non-video based music client can do that experience justice IMO. But when its just me and the wife, and some critical listening enjoyment, there is nothing better than those FLAC files through the Symphony to the D2.


Let me know what you end up doing on this, it's a fun time for digital music archival/use for sure.


Cheers,

Brian


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14717685
> 
> 
> Is he telling you that the video board swap out will be a *DEALER* install?
> 
> --Bob



Bob, my dealer has undertaken at least two D2 video board swap/installs. Not too difficult at all. Just reload SW afterwards.


So, if the back panel is changed out at the factory, the upgrade to v2 should be able to be accomplished on a two step basis. Yes, a bit of a pain in the a_ _ to take your D2 v 1.5 back to the dealer, but a better option than waiting until late 2008 or early 2009 for both potential purchasers and Anthem alike.


----------



## jlwine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14499876
> 
> 
> Thanks for the update. Please do report back what happens.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


Sorry for not posting earlier but I received my AVM 50 back one day and then was out of town for ten days. I did manage to get it hooked up over the weekend and the picture is great! Anthem replace both the video processor and the power supply. While they had it there I also had them install ARC--however, I have not yet installed or configured ARC yet.


----------



## drdisc

Just a quick update for all re: the ARC-1 current order time.


I ordered mine on 08/26/08 and received an email this morning that the ARC-1 had finally arrived at my dealer's. I will be picking it up this Thursday but won't have a chance to play until next week as i am going away for the weekend!







(Bob -- don't you go away next week as I will probably need your help and feedback!!)


My contact said that Anthem were quite backed up due to high demand for this device which has resulted in a slight delay in order time.


Oh, and congratulations on your Emmy, Marc! I watched your acceptance video this morning.


From,

Another Mark!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brewster201* /forum/post/14720186
> 
> 
> Hi there has anyone experienced video loss from there Star Choice satellite receiver DVI-Hdmi to the D2. I can only get video using component cables. I called Star Choice and they explained that they had recently downloaded new firmware to be HDCP compliant. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bruce



Is your display HDCP (copy protection) compliant? The D2 will tell the source whether or not the attached display is HDCP compliant and the source will mute video if not. Your display must be an HDMI display or an HDCP-compliant DVI display for it to be HDCP compliant. The D2 is not allowed to send out Component video from an HDMI or DVI source which is insisting on HDCP compliance.


Try hooking the satellite receiver directly to the display temporarily. If that works then it's not the display. In that case it is most likely that the new software in the satellite receiver has a faulty implementation of "repeater processing" -- i.e., it simply does not know how to implement HDCP when there's something between it and the display. Give Anthem a call. They may have heard of other owners having this problem with the new software for this satellite receiver. And then you can go badger the satellite company again.


For now, Component video (and optical audio) is a fine workaround. You are probably getting equivalent quality video and you are definitely getting equivalent quality audio. I'm afraid it is quite common that software updates for set top boxes screw up their HDMI implementation.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/14720596
> 
> 
> Bob, my dealer has undertaken at least two D2 video board swap/installs. Not too difficult at all. Just reload SW afterwards.
> 
> 
> So, if the back panel is changed out at the factory, the upgrade to v2 should be able to be accomplished on a two step basis. Yes, a bit of a pain in the a_ _ to take your D2 v 1.5 back to the dealer, but a better option than waiting until late 2008 or early 2009 for both potential purchasers and Anthem alike.



I'd be more nervous about swapping out a video board that involves feature changes as in this case, as the dealer will not be set up to test the result. But the change-out itself is certainly doable.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlwine* /forum/post/14720850
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Sorry for not posting earlier but I received my AVM 50 back one day and then was out of town for ten days. I did manage to get it hooked up over the weekend and the picture is great! Anthem replace both the video processor and the power supply. While they had it there I also had them install ARC--however, I have not yet installed or configured ARC yet.



I'm glad things are working again. You are going to love ARC!

--Bob


----------



## jlwine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14721891
> 
> 
> I'm glad things are working again. You are going to love ARC!
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I'm sure I will--I'm just reading through all the related posts now.


Has anyone read about any Blu-Ray player that will output both HDMI (for my main TV) and Componet (for my Zone 2 TV) at the same time?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I can tell you the PS3 does *NOT* do that. I don't know for sure of a good Blu-Ray player that does, but there's nothing technical to prevent it.


Note that the Blu-Ray spec does include a "feature" which lets any disc prohibit the player from sending out Component video at all. No discs to date are authored with that feature turned on, and there is no reason to believe any studio is likely to author new discs with that prohibition any time soon, but every Blu-Ray player implements this.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/14720190
> 
> 
> The greatest thing about the Olive product is the absolute silence of the hard drive. I have a lounge chair right next to my rack of equipment, and sitting there reading, I actually cannot hear the drive of the Symphony at all and its literally 2 feet from my face. They pride themselves on that, for proper silence during orchestral/symphonic music, etc., blah blah blah. But it sure is nice not to hear anything but the music.
> 
> 
> But yeah, the Symphony will play FLAC up to 24/96 just fine. I decided to go this route because I would spend too much time trying to "roll my own", though it can certainly be done in a thousand different ways...Twonky is good, there are other tools, and for other stuff, movies, etc, I rely on the AppleTV. When company comes over, there's nothing like letting them surf through the music/movie/tv show collection in the beautiful GUI of the AppleTV (I rip in 320kbps MP3 as well as the FLAC archive). Neither the Symphony nor any other non-video based music client can do that experience justice IMO. But when its just me and the wife, and some critical listening enjoyment, there is nothing better than those FLAC files through the Symphony to the D2.
> 
> 
> Let me know what you end up doing on this, it's a fun time for digital music archival/use for sure.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Brian



This is really good I will look more at this later this year. Assembling your own is a lot of frustration. Even more since I decided that it should also be able to play HD DVD and Blu-Ray.


----------



## dlynch34

I appreciate the response I got from you guys on speakers that work well with the D2. I tried to find a paradigm dealer near me but unfortunately they do not have anything in stock in the reference line that I am willing to pay. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with martin logan and their D2? I found a deal for martin logans source speakers. Thanks! any suggestions appreciated.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/14731940
> 
> 
> I appreciate the response I got from you guys on speakers that work well with the D2. I tried to find a paradigm dealer near me but unfortunately they do not have anything in stock in the reference line that I am willing to pay. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with martin logan and their D2? I found a deal for martin logans source speakers. Thanks! any suggestions appreciated.



It is more important that you find speakers that match well with your amp, more than how they will pair with the D2.


Michael


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14732858
> 
> 
> It is more important that you find speakers that match well with your amp, more than how they will pair with the D2.
> 
> 
> Michael



I agree!


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14732858
> 
> 
> It is more important that you find speakers that match well with your amp, more than how they will pair with the D2.
> 
> 
> Michael



without a doubt!


----------



## dlynch34

true on that remark. I actually have a emotiva mps-2 amp.


----------



## mlbrand

I need some help or suggestions from you experts, hopefully Bob is nearby! I started to do an ARC calibration for my new subs, and just before I started my D2 started acting weird, slowed down and froze up. So I tried re-installing v.1.33, but no go, it gives the failed to switch to 11,500 kbs error or something like that. So I hit the ABORT buttn on the install, and now it's taking forever to abort, and I wonder if the D2 is frozen. I have the flash eraser program I used before when this happen, so I plan on using it, BUT the D2 appears to be stuck in abort mode. The question is, how long do I wait for the abort mode, and if I shut off the power switch before it aborts do I run the risk of "bricking" my D2?


----------



## jlwine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/14731940
> 
> 
> I appreciate the response I got from you guys on speakers that work well with the D2. I tried to find a paradigm dealer near me but unfortunately they do not have anything in stock in the reference line that I am willing to pay. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with martin logan and their D2? I found a deal for martin logans source speakers. Thanks! any suggestions appreciated.




I have Martin Logans speakers, AVM 50 (after being an AVM 20 v.2 users for years)Krell Amp for my mains and a Sunfire for my surrounds--and I love them together.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/14733627
> 
> 
> I need some help or suggestions from you experts, hopefully Bob is nearby! I started to do an ARC calibration for my new subs, and just before I started my D2 started acting weird, slowed down and froze up. So I tried re-installing v.1.33, but no go, it gives the failed to switch to 11,500 kbs error or something like that. So I hit the ABORT buttn on the install, and now it's taking forever to abort, and I wonder if the D2 is frozen. I have the flash eraser program I used before when this happen, so I plan on using it, BUT the D2 appears to be stuck in abort mode. The question is, how long do I wait for the abort mode, and if I shut off the power switch before it aborts do I run the risk of "bricking" my D2?



I decided the D2 was frozen, so I shut off the power, ran the flash eraser, and now my D2 is taking the 1.33 software reload, at least so far. So for now, I'm good, but we'll see how the rest goes.


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


We are all here very fond of our Anthem equipment. And most of us probably brag about it to friends.

But when it comes to Anthem's web site, it doesn't live to the expectations.

It is dull and still bearing very old news from 2004!

I think it could use some changes or at least updates so when I redirect a novice or would be purchaser to it they would really get the impression of quality and fine products.

Don't you think?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/14733751
> 
> 
> I decided the D2 was frozen, so I shut off the power, ran the flash eraser, and now my D2 is taking the 1.33 software reload, at least so far. So for now, I'm good, but we'll see how the rest goes.



Sorry I wasn't around to help, but I think you did the right thing -- just what I would have suggested.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14734665
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> We are all here very fond of our Anthem equipment. And most of us probably brag about it to friends.
> 
> But when it comes to Anthem's web site, it doesn't live to the expectations.
> 
> It is dull and still bearing very old news from 2004!
> 
> I think it could use some changes or at least updates so when I redirect a novice or would be purchaser to it they would really get the impression of quality and fine products.
> 
> Don't you think?



Direct them to this thread!










--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14734665
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> We are all here very fond of our Anthem equipment. And most of us probably brag about it to friends.
> 
> But when it comes to Anthem's web site, it doesn't live to the expectations.
> 
> It is dull and still bearing very old news from 2004!
> 
> I think it could use some changes or at least updates so when I redirect a novice or would be purchaser to it they would really get the impression of quality and fine products.
> 
> Don't you think?



I prefer to see Anthem investing its money on cool R&D projects such as the ARC than having money spent on marketing purposes.


I personally don't need to brag to my friend, I just give them a ride and nothing more is required.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14734709
> 
> 
> Sorry I wasn't around to help, but I think you did the right thing -- just what I would have suggested.
> 
> --Bob



No problem Bob, all "students" eventually have to "solo".







My D2 is working fine now, and I ran ARC with my new subs and that worked well too. Unfortunately it was too late to do much listening, but that's for tonight.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14734947
> 
> 
> I prefer to see Anthem investing its money on cool R&D projects such as the ARC than having money spent on marketing purposes.
> 
> 
> I personally don't need to brag to my friend, I just give them a ride and nothing more is required.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14734665
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> We are all here very fond of our Anthem equipment. And most of us probably brag about it to friends.
> 
> But when it comes to Anthem's web site, it doesn't live to the expectations.
> 
> It is dull and still bearing very old news from 2004!
> 
> I think it could use some changes or at least updates so when I redirect a novice or would be purchaser to it they would really get the impression of quality and fine products.
> 
> Don't you think?



I actually think the website (specifically for the Statement products) is pretty good. Anthem doesn't bring new products out too often, prefering to upgrade as necessary unlike other companies. When they do bring out new products such as ARC they usually include a good "technical paper " on it.


I am sure that when the v2 is introduced we will get a good set of documentation on the site with the introduction and the elimination of the paper on HDMI, which while it is informative and thought provoking, seems a little ironic with the soon to be released product with HDMI 1.3c and onboard decoding.


It is also very easy to find upgrade release information, even for we owners of legacy equipment. They do not delete the documentation associated with older equipment like other OEMs.


The biggest area where I could see some improvement is in the "News" area where I agree it is a bit out of date and could have links to press releases and information about future products. This would not require significant resources and would be valuable.


Overall though I like the style and quality of the information on the site.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/14735151
> 
> 
> I actually think the website (specifically for the Statement products) is pretty good. Anthem doesn't bring new products out too often, prefering to upgrade as necessary unlike other companies. When they do bring out new products such as ARC they usually include a good "technical paper " on it.
> 
> 
> I am sure that when the v2 is introduced we will get a good set of documentation on the site with the introduction and the elimination of the paper on HDMI, which while it is informative and thought provoking, seems a little ironic with the soon to be released product with HDMI 1.3c and onboard decoding.
> 
> 
> It is also very easy to find upgrade release information, even for we owners of legacy equipment. They do not delete the documentation associated with older equipment like other OEMs.
> 
> 
> The biggest area where I could see some improvement is in the "News" area where I agree it is a bit out of date and could have links to press releases and information about future products. This would not require significant resources and would be valuable.
> 
> 
> Overall though I like the style and quality of the information on the site.



Exactly what I meant to say.

I agree with every word.


----------



## jlwine

I finally was able to find the time to run ARC last night. The first hour was very frustrating as I kept receiving an error message "Excessive Background Noise" the room sure seemed quite to me but I silenced everything one at time and was still receiving the error. Finally, because I had tried everything else including raising and lowering the output Noise Level--I rebooted my laptop and suddenly everything work correctly.


So anyway here are my first results--any comments or suggestions. I think it sounds absolutly amazing--although it has cut back my subwolfer more than I would like. How do I manually adjust ARC to raise the low leves back up a little?

 

arc1.doc 164k . file


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/14709621
> 
> 
> Well me neither. We didn't talk numbers but I'm thinking more like 10% down.....let's see what his story is later in the week.



Circled back with my dealer, and he said the price increase doesn't affect the D2(v2), so there's no rush. It was effective 9/22.


He still wants to talk to me about the Denon AVP1, but I can't imagine he'll do anything to change my mind. Frankly, reading the AVP1 thread and comparing to this thread is all anyone needs to do to make a decision.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14732858
> 
> 
> It is more important that you find speakers that match well with your amp, more than how they will pair with the D2.
> 
> 
> Michael



And how they match up with your room and listening style.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlwine* /forum/post/14735551
> 
> 
> I finally was able to find the time to run ARC last night. The first hour was very frustrating as I kept receiving an error message "Excessive Background Noise" the room sure seemed quite to me but I silenced everything one at time and was still receiving the error. Finally, because I had tried everything else including raising and lowering the output Noise Level--I rebooted my laptop and suddenly everything work correctly.
> 
> 
> So anyway here are my first results--any comments or suggestions. I think it sounds absolutly amazing--although it has cut back my subwolfer more than I would like. How do I manually adjust ARC to raise the low leves back up a little?



That's an interesting tip on rebooting your laptop! It would appear the USB audio input function in the laptop wasn't working right -- perhaps Windows didn't quite initialize the mic's drivers properly.


The results look pretty good, but some things stand out:


* You've got essentially no Room Gain hump in the Target curves near the crossovers. Your Measured curves don't seem to have problems there, so I'm not sure why ARC didn't apply any. I suspect it's because your LF, RF and C speakers look a little low through the cross over regions. So at a guess you've treated your room, and ARC is seeing it as very flat. You might like the results better if you go into the Targets window and raise the Room Gain value to something like 2.5 or 3dB (leave the Force box checked), accept that change, and then re-Calculate and re-Upload (no need to re-Measure). This will likely help your perception on the bass.


* All 3 of your surround speakers look like they could benefit from changing their height or better pointing them towards the main listening position. The Left Side speaker in particular is down 8dB at 3KHz in the Measured curve. ARC is fixing a lot of that, but it would be even better if you could improve their Measured values first.


* Do some re-Calculation experiments with raising the Max EQ Frequency Target. I think you may be able to get away with 12KHz or even 15KHz before the lower frequencies of the Calculated results start to look too bad. If you can improve your surround speakers' treble response by repointing them first that will make this more likely. I'm not sure why you've got such a big dip at 15KHz in all of your main speakers. Perhaps that's a characteristic of these speakers. Even adjusting the toe-in of your LF/RF speakers a bit may help that by putting you in a slightly different part of their dispersal pattern. But with the exception of your Left Side speaker I think your Measured results are good enough that ARC ought to respond well to being asked to provide correction up that high. Trust your ears. If the results with higher Max EQ Frequency Target SOUND better, then they ARE better. And vice versa.


[ETA: Make sure all of your ARC mic positions are at seated ear height (the way you sit down to listen), that the ARC mic is pointing straight up, and that the tip of the ARC mic isn't up against the chair back (raise the mic a little higher or move it forward a foot to keep the tip away from the chair back). This will improve the chances ARC is hearing good data in the treble frequencies.]


* Re-check the Polarity and Phase settings for your subwoofer. With ARC doing better balancing of the sub against the mains you want to make sure you are not now hearing cancellation between the sub and the mains in the crossover region. That too could lead to the feeling that bass is a little weak. If you have only 1 sub, you can do that without having to redo the ARC stuff. The ARC results will just sound better once you've got your sub Polarity and Phase set correctly. If you have MORE than 1 sub you need to adjust this for each of them AND THEN REDO ARC as ARC hears the set of subs simultaneously. Also with more than 1 sub, make sure you use only the "1 sub" setting in Setup / Speaker Configuration. ARC requires that.


Post your Targets window as well so we can see what you are getting for crossovers.


---------------------------------------


Now there are a few other things to check to make sure there isn't a simple mistake here. After doing the ARC Upload, check out what it has loaded into the Speaker Configuration (the crossovers) and Speaker Levels menus in Setup. You are double-checking to make sure the Upload actually worked. The crossovers should match what ARC has in the Targets window and the Speaker Levels should make sense based on what you would expect from manual setup with your trusty, Radio Shack SPL meter. If anything looks odd, redo the Upload and check again.


Then check that Room EQ = ON is now set in Setup / Source Setup for each device to turn ARC on for each device.


When all that looks right, be sure to do a Save User and/or Installer Settings in the Setup menu to make sure you don't accidentally overwrite these Uploaded values by doing a Reload from either of those memories later.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/14731940
> 
> 
> I appreciate the response I got from you guys on speakers that work well with the D2. I tried to find a paradigm dealer near me but unfortunately they do not have anything in stock in the reference line that I am willing to pay. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with martin logan and their D2? I found a deal for martin logans source speakers. Thanks! any suggestions appreciated.



My humble suggestion is - don't buy speakers because you got a good deal. Listening to the speakers with music you are familiar with, and if you like the sound you are hearing, then you can consider buying them.


Having said that, I have always been a fan of dipole/planar speakers (20 years) and am now using MLogans for both music and HT. At present, I use a Karan amp in conjunction with the D2. It was a Classe amp previously. Krell amps are popular too with other owners, as are Ayre, to name a few.


Be aware that electrostatics are particular about the amps driving them because of the rather low impedence (typically


----------



## jlwine

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
That's an interesting tip on rebooting your laptop! It would appear the USB audio input function in the laptop wasn't working right -- perhaps Windows didn't quite initialize the mic's drivers properly.


The results look pretty good, but some things stand out:


* You've got essentially no Room Gain hump in the Target curves near the crossovers. Your Measured curves don't seem to have problems there, so I'm not sure why ARC didn't apply any. I suspect it's because your LF, RF and C speakers look a little low through the cross over regions. So at a guess you've treated your room, and ARC is seeing it as very flat. You might like the results better if you go into the Targets window and raise the Room Gain value to something like 2.5 or 3dB (leave the Force box checked), accept that change, and then re-Calculate and re-Upload (no need to re-Measure). This will likely help your perception on the bass.


* All 3 of your surround speakers look like they could benefit from changing their height or better pointing them towards the main listening position. The Left Side speaker in particular is down 8dB at 3KHz in the Measured curve. ARC is fixing a lot of that, but it would be even better if you could improve their Measured values first.


* Do some re-Calculation experiments with raising the Max EQ Frequency Target. I think you may be able to get away with 12KHz or even 15KHz before the lower frequencies of the Calculated results start to look too bad. If you can improve your surround speakers' treble response by repointing them first that will make this more likely. I'm not sure why you've got such a big dip at 15KHz in all of your main speakers. Perhaps that's a characteristic of these speakers. Even adjusting the toe-in of your LF/RF speakers a bit may help that by putting you in a slightly different part of their dispersal pattern. But with the exception of your Left Side speaker I think your Measured results are good enough that ARC ought to respond well to being asked to provide correction up that high. Trust your ears. If the results with higher Max EQ Frequency Target SOUND better, then they ARE better. And vice versa.


[ETA: Make sure all of your ARC mic positions are at seated ear height (the way you sit down to listen), that the ARC mic is pointing straight up, and that the tip of the ARC mic isn't up against the chair back (raise the mic a little higher or move it forward a foot to keep the tip away from the chair back). This will improve the chances ARC is hearing good data in the treble frequencies.]


* Re-check the Polarity and Phase settings for your subwoofer. With ARC doing better balancing of the sub against the mains you want to make sure you are not now hearing cancellation between the sub and the mains in the crossover region. That too could lead to the feeling that bass is a little weak. If you have only 1 sub, you can do that without having to redo the ARC stuff. The ARC results will just sound better once you've got your sub Polarity and Phase set correctly. If you have MORE than 1 sub you need to adjust this for each of them AND THEN REDO ARC as ARC hears the set of subs simultaneously. Also with more than 1 sub, make sure you use only the "1 sub" setting in Setup / Speaker Configuration. ARC requires that.


Post your Targets window as well so we can see what you are getting for crossovers.


---------------------------------------


Now there are a few other things to check to make sure there isn't a simple mistake here. After doing the ARC Upload, check out what it has loaded into the Speaker Configuration (the crossovers) and Speaker Levels menus in Setup. You are double-checking to make sure the Upload actually worked. The crossovers should match what ARC has in the Targets window and the Speaker Levels should make sense based on what you would expect from manual setup with your trusty, Radio Shack SPL meter. If anything looks odd, redo the Upload and check again.


Then check that Room EQ = ON is now set in Setup / Source Setup for each device to turn ARC on for each device.


When all that looks right, be sure to do a Save User and/or Installer Settings in the Setup menu to make sure you don't accidentally overwrite these Uploaded values by doing a Reload from either of those memories later.

--Bob
Thanks a million for your input Bob. My room is far form ideal--one of the reasons I was looking so forward to getting ARC. It has a vaulted ceiling and is appox. 15'x30' and is partially open on two ends. My system consists of Martin Logan static electric speakers for mains, surrounds and center. My one rear speaker is a Klipsch. My sub is also Martin Logan--The Descent.


As you request I have included my Targets, I also set the Target to 12kHx as you suggested and re-ran. The results look a little strange to my untrained eye--what do you think?

 

ARC2.doc 170.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The 12KHZ results look pretty good, but ARC is showing some signs of running out of resources (leaving residual errors) in the Left Surround and Rear speakers.


Again, if you can reposition or repoint your side and rear speakers a bit to improve how they Measure I think ARC will be able to do more for you.


These 12KHz results should sound pretty good, but I think you can do better after repointing those surrounds so ARC doesn't have to provide quite so much boost up there to compensate for how weak they are Measuring.


There are no surprises in the Targets. Try raising the Room Gain for Movies as I suggested (try 3dB) and see if you like that better as regards bass and low mid-range. You are also getting 0 Room Gain in Music, and I think you might like it better if you raise that up -- say to around 2dB. ARC is trying to detect the natural Room Gain of your room and to preserve it even as it is eliminating other, unhelpful aspects of your room response. But your room/speaker setup is Measuring flatter than normal near the crossovers. So "forcing" some Room Gain (some hump in the Target curves near the crossovers) may give you better results.


ETA: Set the D2 audio mode to ALL STEREO or ALL MONO (so that you have common audio coming out of all the speakers), play some 2-channel content (e.g., a CD), and put your ear up to the tweeter in your two side surrounds and your rear speaker and make sure the tweeter element is actually functioning the same in all 3 of those speakers. It is possible that you may have a faulty tweeter in your Left Surround speaker.

--Bob


----------



## jlwine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14737662
> 
> 
> The 12KHZ results look pretty good, but ARC is showing some signs of running out of resources (leaving residual errors) in the Left Surround and Rear speakers.
> 
> 
> Again, if you can reposition or repoint your side and rear speakers a bit to improve how they Measure I think ARC will be able to do more for you.
> 
> 
> These 12KHz results should sound pretty good, but I think you can do better after repointing those surrounds so ARC doesn't have to provide quite so much boost up there to compensate for how weak they are Measuring.
> 
> 
> There are no surprises in the Targets. Try raising the Room Gain for Movies as I suggested (try 3dB) and see if you like that better as regards bass and low mid-range. You are also getting 0 Room Gain in Music, and I think you might like it better if you raise that up -- say to around 2dB. ARC is trying to detect the natural Room Gain of your room and to preserve it even as it is eliminating other, unhelpful aspects of your room response. But your room/speaker setup is Measuring flatter than normal near the crossovers. So "forcing" some Room Gain (some hump in the Target curves near the crossovers) may give you better results.
> 
> 
> ETA: Set the D2 audio mode to ALL STEREO or ALL MONO (so that you have common audio coming out of all the speakers) and put your ear up to the tweeter in your two side surrounds and your rear speaker and make sure the tweeter element is actually functioning the same in all 3 of those speakers. It is possible that you may have a faulty tweeter in your Left Surround speaker.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I will re-aim the surround (due to physical room limitations no option to do so with the rear speaker) and re-measure. My surrounds are electrostatic and do not contain a separate tweeter.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlwine* /forum/post/14737769
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I will re-aim the surround (due to physical room limitations no option to do so with the rear speaker) and re-measure. My surrounds are electrostatic and do not contain a separate tweeter.



If your surrounds have separate input jacks for bass/mid-range and treble, make sure you have a good electrical connection to the treble jacks. On some speakers this is a bus bar screwed down between the two pairs of input jacks.


And of course if they have any built-in controls for treble response, double check that as well.


And I have a vague recollection that treble response from electrostatics was also sensitive to distance placement from the wall behind the speaker. Check their manual.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14737809
> 
> 
> ........ And I have a vague recollection that treble response from electrostatics was also sensitive to distance placement from the wall behind the speaker. Check their manual.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, you're probably refering to backwave bouncing from the wall causing combfiltering to front wave. Adjusting the distance from the wall may help, but I'd reduce that backwave by means of damping the wall behind the speaker. Adjusting toe-in can also help.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14736196
> 
> 
> And how they match up with your room and listening style.



And how they match up with your speaker cables.


I did not really believe that they made a difference, until I finally found the perfect cables to balance between my B&W's and my Cary amplifier which added so much more SQ to my listening pleasure.


----------



## jlwine

Bob,


I re-ran the calculations at 8kHz and to me these calculations look better than either 5 or 12 do you agree?

 

ARC3.doc 164k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlwine* /forum/post/14738293
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I re-ran the calculations at 8kHz and to me these calculations look better than either 5 or 12 do you agree?



Yes, that's actually quite a good compromise given the current state of your treble Measured curves.


I'd still suggest you try raising Room Gain as well.


As always, the key test is how the results sound to you.


On your original question of boosting bass, no there isn't a Target you can use to just boost bass. You could manually tweak the subwoofer level after ARC has completed the Upload, but I'd suggest you start by double-checking your sub's Polarity/Phase and also adding a bit more Room Gain Target. I think those two may very well get you where you want to be.


While you are at it, double check you haven't turned on Dynamics reduction via the remote, or used any of the temporary adjustments on the remote that might lower sub output or LFE. These are saved on a per input AND per audio type basis so it is easy to leave one of these still set if you've been playing with them. You can clear all the temporary audio settings for all inputs at once by:


* Save User Settings


* Reload Factory Defaults. You may lose video at this point but you can continue via the Front Panel


* Reload Saved User Settings


ETA: I'm curious; what did ARC Upload as speaker levels for you?

--Bob


----------



## Spridle1

Now that we know the power of the Anthem processors as evidenced by the introduction of ARC, I would like to propose a new enhancement. Please provide your feedback or thoughts.


PROBLEM: The human ear's sensitivity is fairly flat at reference listening levels of 80-90db. However, as volume decreases, the ear becomes much less sensitive to low and high frequencies. This phenomenon, know as the Fletcher-Munson effect, has been studied extensively over several decades. The result is at lower listening levels, our hearing perceives primarily midrange and not much below 300Hz or above 6K Hz (see attached graph). This causes us to have a dramatically reduced full-range listening experience. Since I frequently listen to music with the volume control set from between -45dB and -35dB, I can tell that I am really missing a lot at the ends of the frequency spectrum compared to when I listen at higher volume settings.


SOLUTION: Add a feature that provides Fletcher-Munson compensation as the volume setting changes. As you can see from the attached graph, the amount of compensation would need to vary depending on volume setting. Little or no compensation would be needed at reference levels, but as volume setting decreases, the compensation would increase. Anthem would automatically set the proper compensation based on the volume setting knob. The user would simply need to turn the feature on. The feature would also need to be available for Zones 2&3 to enhance listening for those using these zones for house background music speakers.


Also here is a link to a site that explains what I am talking about in more detail. http://www.extron.com/company/articl...nesscontrol_ts 


What do you guys think - good idea or bad idea?

Attachment 120676


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I believe a number of vendors were pushing stuff like this at CEDIA -- "Dolby Volume" and "THX Loudness" or some such.


I had a brief discussion with Nick about those and I know they are on the radar, but I wouldn't expect something right away. I'm pretty sure the new DSPs in the v.2 will have spare horsepower, so I see no technical reason why it couldn't be added. In fact it could probably be done with the current DSPs.


Personally I don't see the attraction. I play things at low volume for a reason. I WANT it to be background. But what do others here think?

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spridle1* /forum/post/14739311
> 
> 
> Now that we know the power of the Anthem processors as evidenced by the introduction of ARC, I would like to propose a new enhancement. Please provide your feedback or thoughts.
> 
> 
> PROBLEM: The human ear's sensitivity is fairly flat at reference listening levels of 80-90db. However, as volume decreases, the ear becomes much less sensitive to low and high frequencies. This phenomenon, know as the Fletcher-Munson effect, has been studied extensively over several decades. The result is at lower listening levels, our hearing perceives primarily midrange and not much below 300Hz or above 6K Hz (see attached graph). This causes us to have a dramatically reduced full-range listening experience. Since I frequently listen to music with the volume control set from between -45dB and -35dB, I can tell that I am really missing a lot at the ends of the frequency spectrum compared to when I listen at higher volume settings.
> 
> 
> SOLUTION: Add a feature that provides Fletcher-Munson compensation as the volume setting changes. As you can see from the attached graph, the amount of compensation would need to vary depending on volume setting. Little or no compensation would be needed at reference levels, but as volume setting decreases, the compensation would increase. Anthem would automatically set the proper compensation based on the volume setting knob. The user would simply need to turn the feature on. The feature would also need to be available for Zones 2&3 to enhance listening for those using these zones for house background music speakers.
> 
> 
> Also here is a link to a site that explains what I am talking about in more detail. http://www.extron.com/company/articl...nesscontrol_ts
> 
> 
> What do you guys think - good idea or bad idea?



Good idea. It's called Audyssey DynamicEQ.


----------



## Spridle1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14739780
> 
> 
> I play things at low volume for a reason. I WANT it to be background. But what do others here think?
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I too play low volume for background purposes. However, given the equipment we all have, I'd like the background to sound like hi-fi rather than AM radio, which is, in effect, what you get with the low and high end roll-offs of our ears at these low levels. Sure, I can approximate the correct Fletcher-Munson correction by tapping my treble and subwoofer level controls, but this method is not very practical or accurate.


----------



## jlwine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bob pariseau* /forum/post/14738876
> 
> 
> eta: I'm curious; what did arc upload as speaker levels for you?
> 
> --bob



fl -4

c +4

fr -3

sr +1

rl -3

sl +2.5

movie sub -5.5

music sub -6.5


----------



## beden1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14734709
> 
> 
> Sorry I wasn't around to help, but I think you did the right thing -- just what I would have suggested.
> 
> --Bob



What is a flash eraser? Thanks


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14740274
> 
> 
> Good idea. It's called Audyssey DynamicEQ.



How different is DynamicEQ from Loudness Contour? The only thing I can think of is with our current crop of AV receivers and pre/pros, we know where to start applying the process because we have a reference SPL level set while the ordinary loudness compensation applies processing at a given dB level based on the Volume control of the unit.


----------



## ANSEK

I'm experiencing a problem with my D2 where it randomly displays the status information (volume, input device, and surround mode) without me having conducted an action such as changing volume or input or clicking status. It's also not the dialog normalization display. This is weird and it did start until recently (about two months ago). I originally thought it was related to mr DirecTV HR20 but it also happens with my HR21 and my BD-P1200. The only common thread is all devices are connected via HDMI, but nothing has changed in my setup since I first bought the D2 last year.


Has anyone else experienced a similar issue?


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14740527
> 
> 
> How different is DynamicEQ from Loudness Contour? The only thing I can think of is with our current crop of AV receivers and pre/pros, we know where to start applying the process because we have a reference SPL level set while the ordinary loudness compensation applies processing at a given dB level based on the Volume control of the unit.



Actually, Audyssey bases its compensation on actual measured levels, rather than the volume control setting. (I assume ARC can do something like it.) I have heard the demos and, while it is quite effective (as is Audyssey Dynamic Volume), I'd rather just play it at normal levels. (No kids or close neighbors.)


----------



## Spridle1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14740274
> 
> 
> Good idea. It's called Audyssey DynamicEQ.



Don't think I can get AudysseyDynamicEQ to run on my D1, but it does seem to be the same thing I'm talking about here. Just read up on THX Loudness Plus, which is a new spec for THX which appears to adjust for loudness at low-volumes. I would bet that Anthem could do a much better job. I do not use THX with ARC because I'm not that impressed with THX, especially the fact that it constantly resets my tone controls. I would want the proposed AnthemLoudness feature to be selectable by source (like ARC) and be available for and independent of all processing modes such as Stereo, 5.1, THX, Prologic II, etc.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spridle1* /forum/post/14740682
> 
> 
> Don't think I can get AudysseyDynamicEQ to run on my D1,........



Of course, that's why I used the smiley.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *beden1* /forum/post/14740510
> 
> 
> What is a flash eraser? Thanks



It is a software tool that Anthem will have you download and run if you have a software problem that a re-install can't fix.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14739780
> 
> 
> I believe a number of vendors were pushing stuff like this at CEDIA -- "Dolby Volume" and "THX Loudness" or some such.
> 
> 
> I had a brief discussion with Nick about those and I know they are on the radar, but I wouldn't expect something right away. I'm pretty sure the new DSPs in the v.2 will have spare horsepower, so I see no technical reason why it couldn't be added. In fact it could probably be done with the current DSPs.
> 
> 
> Personally I don't see the attraction. I play things at low volume for a reason. I WANT it to be background. But what do others here think?
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob,


Well, I have a dedicated insulated room so I don't really care for those.

But my friend really wanted these before even considering a D2.

He lives in an appartment and has small children so he thought this might help him watch movies late and still not compromise too much on the effects.

I doubt it....


----------



## fhoude

Hi,

I have a problem...


My SetupMenu did not display anymore on my HDMI output (I did not test on the other output).

I have the Video & the OSD that works fine, I mean the display on the video such as volume & co but as soon I want to jump into the setup menu then nothing display on the screen... It turns black... I could use the AVM50 LCD to control but it's not that usefull...

Is there some option that could lead to that problem ?


I had some problem once with multiple Proto Codes sended to the AVM that FREEZE the hardware... It "destroy" the fonts on the AVM... but it was Ok after 2 or 3 poweroff-on (switch on the back)...


Can you help ? I have the 1.33 firmware...

FRED


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14739780
> 
> 
> I believe a number of vendors were pushing stuff like this at CEDIA -- "Dolby Volume" and "THX Loudness" or some such.
> 
> 
> Personally I don't see the attraction. I play things at low volume for a reason. I WANT it to be background. But what do others here think?
> 
> --Bob



Bob. IR, Onkyo and Denon still have to sell new receivers and pre/pro every 6-12 months...










Look at all those used IR 9.8 starting to pop-up everywhere on alot of forums I go to. 2 or 3 minor differences with the 9.8, but people are ''upgrading'' to the new 9.9.










Man. Those marketing department are really hard at work to sell those new pre/pros!


Dedicated room, totally isolated and separated from the rest of the house, living alone on a street on a lake. People can't believe how low my noise floor is in that room. Dolby Volume? Not for me.


Reference level at 3 in the morning, and all family members are still snoring loudly.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14741873
> 
> 
> But my friend really wanted these before even considering a D2.
> 
> He lives in an appartment and has small children so he thought this might help him watch movies late and still not compromise too much on the effects.
> 
> I doubt it....



It really depends on your meaning for the words "too much." They work and I can see applications, such as for your friend, but they're not for me or, I think, for you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fhoude* /forum/post/14742123
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have a problem...
> 
> 
> My SetupMenu did not display anymore on my HDMI output (I did not test on the other output).
> 
> I have the Video & the OSD that works fine, I mean the display on the video such as volume & co but as soon I want to jump into the setup menu then nothing display on the screen... It turns black... I could use the AVM50 LCD to control but it's not that usefull...
> 
> Is there some option that could lead to that problem ?
> 
> 
> I had some problem once with multiple Proto Codes sended to the AVM that FREEZE the hardware... It "destroy" the fonts on the AVM... but it was Ok after 2 or 3 poweroff-on (switch on the back)...
> 
> 
> Can you help ? I have the 1.33 firmware...
> 
> FRED



I don't have any idea what triggers this for some folks, but the usual cure is just to re-install the V1.33 firmware on top of itself.


Don't skip any steps: Do it like you were doing it for the first time. I.e., make sure you have no powered HDMI connections during the install, reload Factory Defaults before the install, etc.


If you still don't have the Setup on screen display after the re-install you will need to give Anthem tech support a call.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14743664
> 
> 
> It really depends on your meaning for the words "too much." They work and I can see applications, such as for your friend, but they're not for me or, I think, for you.



I suppose the real question is the marginal improvement over just using the normal Dynamics reduction feature already in the Anthem (via the remote) and running a louder volume for the rest of the sound.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *beden1* /forum/post/14740510
> 
> 
> What is a flash eraser? Thanks



Flash Eraser is a tech support tool -- a Windows application that Anthem tech support can make available to you. It connects to the Anthem via the normal, serial cable connection.


It forces the programmable parts of the Anthem into a state where they will accept a new firmware install. It is used primarily in cases where an aborted or failed firmware install has left the Anthem in a state where the normal firmware installer can't redo the firmware install on its own.


In general, you should not use Flash Eraser unless Anthem tech support tells you to or you really know what you are doing, as it will erase any evidence in the Anthem of what went wrong in the first place -- evidence they might want to extract before you erase everything.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANSEK* /forum/post/14740592
> 
> 
> I'm experiencing a problem with my D2 where it randomly displays the status information (volume, input device, and surround mode) without me having conducted an action such as changing volume or input or clicking status. It's also not the dialog normalization display. This is weird and it did start until recently (about two months ago). I originally thought it was related to mr DirecTV HR20 but it also happens with my HR21 and my BD-P1200. The only common thread is all devices are connected via HDMI, but nothing has changed in my setup since I first bought the D2 last year.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced a similar issue?



You may have a stuck button on your remote. First try replacing the batteries in the remote. If that doesn't cure it, try covering the remote to make sure it isn't transmitting unexpectedly.


Next try switching to the AM/FM source and leave it there for a while to see if the random displays happen there. That will eliminate any chance it is HDMI related.


Do you have any Zone 2 stuff set up with remote control over there? Are you using a programmable remote that might be sending commands to the Anthem while also sending commands to some other device?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlwine* /forum/post/14740313
> 
> 
> fl -4
> 
> c +4
> 
> fr -3
> 
> sr +1
> 
> rl -3
> 
> sl +2.5
> 
> movie sub -5.5
> 
> music sub -6.5



These all look reasonable as well. You might want to lower the internal volume control in your sub a little bit so that the Anthem doesn't have to cut its output to the sub by 6dB. Your sub's amp won't be working quite so hard and that's usually a good thing.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM

When I run ARC, does it go back into the speaker setting and bring them all back to zero gain, before it does measurements?


Michael


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14744482
> 
> 
> I suppose the real question is the marginal improvement over just using the normal Dynamics reduction feature already in the Anthem (via the remote) and running a louder volume for the rest of the sound.
> 
> --Bob



Cannot say and, I think, I have already said too much about such features for which I have no use.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14744618
> 
> 
> These all look reasonable as well. You might want to lower the internal volume control in your sub a little bit so that the Anthem doesn't have to cut its output to the sub by 6dB. Your sub's amp won't be working quite so hard and that's usually a good thing.
> 
> --Bob



I try to set my sub's volume controls so that the Anthem has to have a fairly "high" output to the sub. This helps if you have an automatic turn-on circuit for your sub as it will react quicker.


I don't know if I agree with the statement from Bob regarding the sub's amplifier. The sub volume control will take the signal and "multiply or add to it" to send a signal to the amplifier. If you are sending a lower signal, say a "1" and have to have your volume control at "10", you could be sending a signal of "10" to the amplifier. If you are sending a "2" signal to the sub the volume may only need to be at "5" to send the same "10" signal to the amplifier. As long as you are putting out the same dB out of the subwoofer, the amplifier will still be working just as hard.....


Mike


----------



## jlwine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14744618
> 
> 
> These all look reasonable as well. You might want to lower the internal volume control in your sub a little bit so that the Anthem doesn't have to cut its output to the sub by 6dB. Your sub's amp won't be working quite so hard and that's usually a good thing.
> 
> --Bob



The world of weird continues to surround me. So I toed-in the surrounds, turned the sub down a bit and was half way through measurement six of six. Suddenly, I received the "Windows has detected a problem and needs to close this Program" message on my laptop and the application hung. I had to reboot laptop and when I was ready to start again no volume was coming out of my mains. Upon further investigation the Power Fuse in my Krell amp that powers my mains had blown. I did not have a proper spare fuse so I will not know until today whether the Krell will continue to blow fuses or this was just some strange onetime event. Very strange and very frustrating. I am keeping my fingers crossed that this does not result in an expensive repair.


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14744579
> 
> 
> You may have a stuck button on your remote. First try replacing the batteries in the remote. If that doesn't cure it, try covering the remote to make sure it isn't transmitting unexpectedly.
> 
> 
> Next try switching to the AM/FM source and leave it there for a while to see if the random displays happen there. That will eliminate any chance it is HDMI related.
> 
> 
> Do you have any Zone 2 stuff set up with remote control over there? Are you using a programmable remote that might be sending commands to the Anthem while also sending commands to some other device?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I'm using a Pronto Pro which I programed myself. I haven't changed the config of the Pronto since April of this year. I keep the original Anthem remote in a drawer and have only used it three times in a year. I also don't have any Zone 2 stuff set up (yet, getting a pool table and 42" plasma for the rec room).


I'm going to try the AM/FM mode to see if it occurs there. I'll report back.


----------



## DEHAAS

I have been wondering what the purpose of the expansion port on back panel of the anthem is, for quite a while. I still have not found an answer. Can anyone here tell why it is there?


----------



## fhoude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14744437
> 
> 
> I don't have any idea what triggers this for some folks, but the usual cure is just to re-install the V1.33 firmware on top of itself.
> 
> 
> Don't skip any steps: Do it like you were doing it for the first time. I.e., make sure you have no powered HDMI connections during the install, reload Factory Defaults before the install, etc.
> 
> 
> If you still don't have the Setup on screen display after the re-install you will need to give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> --Bob



Great !

It works, Thanks Bob !

You are very usefull here, for sure the Anthem tech support should reward you !

Regards

FRED


----------



## beden1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14744520
> 
> 
> Flash Eraser is a tech support tool -- a Windows application that Anthem tech support can make available to you. It connects to the Anthem via the normal, serial cable connection.
> 
> 
> It forces the programmable parts of the Anthem into a state where they will accept a new firmware install. It is used primarily in cases where an aborted or failed firmware install has left the Anthem in a state where the normal firmware installer can't redo the firmware install on its own.
> 
> 
> In general, you should not use Flash Eraser unless Anthem tech support tells you to or you really know what you are doing, as it will erase any evidence in the Anthem of what went wrong in the first place -- evidence they might want to extract before you erase everything.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the information Bob.


I'm strongly considering getting an Anthem D2v2 when it arrives, and I'm trying to learn as much as I can beforehand. I have to compliment you, as you are a big selling point for me to move to Anthem. You've been a tremendous help to many on this forum, and very informative to me.


----------



## PaulF

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*


> Quote:
> I play things at low volume for a reason. I WANT it to be background. But what do others here think?



I am more interested in the volume leveling capability of DV than anything that does EQ compensation at lowers levels, though focus on dialog clarity at low volumes is a plus.


----------



## vivekg

Hello,


I have been on an earlier version of both the D2 software and the ARC software and decided it was a good afternoon for running an update. The D2 firmware update went smoothly, the ARC measurement and calculations went smoothly. However, when it came to uploading the ARC results, I seem to have run into a snag.


The uploading of gain and room calibration completes and then the D2 shuts down and then is re-started by the software. Then it starts uploading the speaker configuration settings and suddenly the D2 starts shutting down again... and the upload fails. I've retried this a few times and then I tried re-starting my laptop and opening the file in advanced mode and manually telling it to re-upload, but no luck.


Any suggestions?


I forgot one piece or information. When it failed it said that it failed to set the Subwoofer and the value should be -13.5, when i went into the D2 and looked at the settings it looked like some things may have been updated and so I manually tried setting the subwoofer, but it wouldn't go below -12, so could this be the problem. Did I have the settings on my sub too high when the data was gathered?


Thanks,

Vivek


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vivekg* /forum/post/14751827
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot one piece or information. When it failed it said that it failed to set the Subwoofer and the value should be -13.5, when i went into the D2 and looked at the settings it looked like some things may have been updated and so I manually tried setting the subwoofer, but it wouldn't go below -12, so could this be the problem. Did I have the settings on my sub too high when the data was gathered?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Vivek



If you have a volume control on the subwoofer, lower it and try again. If the listening results are acceptable, your done.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14745382
> 
> 
> When I run ARC, does it go back into the speaker setting and bring them all back to zero gain, before it does measurements?
> 
> 
> Michael



Yes. The only value in Setup / Speaker Calibration that matters is the Noise Level line. ARC will zero out the speaker volume trims before Measurement, and will load new values as part of the Upload.


Similarly, it doesn't matter what you have in Setup for crossovers prior to doing a Measurement.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DEHAAS* /forum/post/14751276
> 
> 
> I have been wondering what the purpose of the expansion port on back panel of the anthem is, for quite a while. I still have not found an answer. Can anyone here tell why it is there?



If you mean the holes underneath the HDMI sockets, the answer is nothing. They go away in the upcoming D2 v.2. The AM/FM antenna connections get moved there and the new HDMI sockets get added where AM/FM is now.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vivekg* /forum/post/14751827
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I have been on an earlier version of both the D2 software and the ARC software and decided it was a good afternoon for running an update. The D2 firmware update went smoothly, the ARC measurement and calculations went smoothly. However, when it came to uploading the ARC results, I seem to have run into a snag.
> 
> 
> The uploading of gain and room calibration completes and then the D2 shuts down and then is re-started by the software. Then it starts uploading the speaker configuration settings and suddenly the D2 starts shutting down again... and the upload fails. I've retried this a few times and then I tried re-starting my laptop and opening the file in advanced mode and manually telling it to re-upload, but no luck.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> I forgot one piece or information. When it failed it said that it failed to set the Subwoofer and the value should be -13.5, when i went into the D2 and looked at the settings it looked like some things may have been updated and so I manually tried setting the subwoofer, but it wouldn't go below -12, so could this be the problem. Did I have the settings on my sub too high when the data was gathered?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Vivek



This is an issue that should have been fixed by now.


What versions of software were you using? You should be using firmware V1.33 and ARC V1.2.5. If you were trying an older version than either of those, please download the current versions from Anthem's public download page and install it.


Double check that you are not accidentally running your prior version of the ARC application by mistake. Run ARC in Advanced mode and check the version number using the About menu item.


If you WERE using the correct versions and got this subwoofer level error, please give Anthem tech support a call and let them know. This particular problem was, I believe, fixed in ARC V1.2.3 or thereabouts.


In any event, the workaround is to lower the internal volume control in your subwoofer so that the Anthem doesn't have to cut its output quite so much.


Here's how:


Get out your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter, set it to "Slow" response and "C" weighting. Take all measurements with the SPL meter pointing straight up and positioned at the #1 mic position you use for ARC.


Go into Setup / Speaker Calibration. Set the Left Front and Subwoofer lines both to 0dB (do not skip this step or you will get inaccurate results in the next steps). Now set the test mode to Manual in the first line and scroll down to Noise Level. The test tone will now be coming from your Left Front speaker. Adjust the Noise Level line to measure roughly 75dB SPL.


Now scroll down to the Subwoofer line. Using ONLY the volume control built into your subwoofer, adjust its volume to register roughly 75dB SPL.


Ballpark close is fine for these two adjustments.


Now Back out of the Setup menu and do a new ARC Measurement.


ARC uses the Noise Level value to adjust the volume of its test sweep tones. 75dB is a good level. And you have also now adjusted the internal volume setting in your subwoofer so that it too will be easy for ARC to balance against your main speakers. The volume trim ARC calculates for you subwoofer should now be within a few dB either side of 0dB, and thus you should have no Upload problems.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlwine* /forum/post/14745961
> 
> 
> The world of weird continues to surround me. So I toed-in the surrounds, turned the sub down a bit and was half way through measurement six of six. Suddenly, I received the "Windows has detected a problem and needs to close this Program" message on my laptop and the application hung. I had to reboot laptop and when I was ready to start again no volume was coming out of my mains. Upon further investigation the Power Fuse in my Krell amp that powers my mains had blown. I did not have a proper spare fuse so I will not know until today whether the Krell will continue to blow fuses or this was just some strange onetime event. Very strange and very frustrating. I am keeping my fingers crossed that this does not result in an expensive repair.



Double check that in the course of repositioning your speakers that you didn't short out any of the speaker wires. It only takes one loose whisker of wire to cause a short. Check the back of each speaker where the wires connect and also check the amp end of the speaker cables.


A blown amp fuse is almost always the result of shorted speaker cables. If the fuse sacrificed itself to save your Krell amp you should hold a little memorial service in honor of it.

--Bob


----------



## vivekg

Bob and Netroamer,


Thanks for the info. I am using the latest versions freshly downloaded. D2 1.33 (just verified by checking) and Arc 1.25 (saw this when uploading the settings). I will let Anthem know on Monday. I will try the process again once everyone is asleep and the house is quiet for doing the measurements.


Thanks,

Vivek


----------



## mclsound

hi guys,i have a d2,and it has all kinds of clicking and poping sounds when i use the volume and bass/treble controls. Now some may not be to worried but my system(MTTM(atc mids,scanspeak 9700 tweeters,dual 12" Volt/ side)) ..Dual 8" Volt,atc mid,9700 in center channel and 8" Volt and 9700 in rears, also 2 CSS -SDX 15 subs on a Crown K2.

Bryston 14Bsst

4Bsst

Classe ca-400

Bryston 10bLR

as you can see i hear all sounds and the ones coming out of my D2 are quite annoying,i mean for the money$$$$$$$$$$.

is there any solutions yet for this problem, especially since there is a V2 comming out.

thanks for any feedback

John


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14752798
> 
> 
> Yes. The only value in Setup / Speaker Calibration that matters is the Noise Level line. ARC will zero out the speaker volume trims before Measurement, and will load new values as part of the Upload.
> 
> 
> Similarly, it doesn't matter what you have in Setup for crossovers prior to doing a Measurement.
> 
> --Bob



where should tghe noise level line be?


thanks a bunch bob.


----------



## bluemark81

Anyone know when Anthem will be sending out a fix for the audio hum that has been occurring during non-audio tracks in AVM's equipped with ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14753181
> 
> 
> where should tghe noise level line be?
> 
> 
> thanks a bunch bob.



Setup / Speaker Calibration. Noise Level is the line just above the individual speaker volume trim lines.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14753223
> 
> 
> Anyone know when Anthem will be sending out a fix for the audio hum that has been occurring during non-audio tracks in AVM's equipped with ARC?



I've not heard any update on this issue. If you get an update from Anthem, please do post here.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14753248
> 
> 
> I've not heard any update on this issue. If you get an update from Anthem, please do post here.
> 
> --Bob



I sent Nick at Anthem an e-mail to follow-up on it.


I will let you all know what his response is. Hopefully, they come up with a solution soon as it is quite annoying.


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14753242
> 
> 
> Setup / Speaker Calibration. Noise Level is the line just above the individual speaker volume trim lines.
> 
> --Bob



What value should it be set at?


Thanks


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14753223
> 
> 
> Anyone know when Anthem will be sending out a fix for the audio hum that has been occurring during non-audio tracks in AVM's equipped with ARC?




Is this a benefit for us D2 owners?


Just kidding, hope it gets fixed soon.


----------



## jayray

I'm finding it a bit emabarrasing when people are in my HT and this very loud annoying buzz comes out. As much as I try to mute before the audio gets started, it doesn't always happen. It even happens when selecting diff menu options. Time for a fix it has been close to a year with this problem.

John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14753603
> 
> 
> I'm finding it a bit emabarrasing when people are in my HT and this very loud annoying buzz comes out. As much as I try to mute before the audio gets started, it doesn't always happen. It even happens when selecting diff menu options. Time for a fix it has been close to a year with this problem.
> 
> John



John:


Is that the same buzz that I was referring to? Loud buzz before an audio track kicks in on digital sources such as PS3 and DVD player. Mine only appeared since getting ARC installed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14753380
> 
> 
> What value should it be set at?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Check out the "Here's how," instructions in this post just a few posts above yours:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post14752872 


--Bob


----------



## eXcessive

Not sure if this is news but, I was at a local show today and the Anthem Reps were present. I was informed that the AVM50v2 would hopefully be out by November. The D2 v2 will be out before that.


One interesting point is that it will have 8 HDMI inputs and 2 HDMI outputs (AVM50) however the outputs are in parrallel so if you have a source thats 1080p & 720p it won't output 2 different signals so your 720p source will not work.


This however is planned to be corrected in a software update a few months down the road. This is an issue for me since I have a 1080p FP but a 720p older RPTV.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eXcessive* /forum/post/14755407
> 
> 
> Not sure if this is news but, I was at a local show today and the Anthem Reps were present. I was informed that the AVM50v2 would hopefully be out by November. The D2 v2 will be out before that.
> 
> 
> One interesting point is that it will have 8 HDMI inputs and 2 HDMI outputs (AVM50) however the outputs are in parrallel so if you have a source thats 1080p & 720p it won't output 2 different signals so your 720p source will not work.
> 
> 
> This however is planned to be corrected in a software update a few months down the road. This is an issue for me since I have a 1080p FP but a 720p older RPTV.



"Before that" - were they more specific? Like October?


----------



## eXcessive

Honestly I didn't ask details on D2 since I'm looking for the AVM50.


Rob the Sales rep for Anthem (I believe the sales Manager since Anthem head office is only 1 hour from where i live) Told me the D2v2 would be released before the AVM50v2 and that the AVM50v2 they were targeting November.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14753756
> 
> 
> John:
> 
> 
> Is that the same buzz that I was referring to? Loud buzz before an audio track kicks in on digital sources such as PS3 and DVD player. Mine only appeared since getting ARC installed.



As I have mentioned before, this started well before ARC for me. I believe since I got my AVM 50. Maybe I the upgrade to V2 might get rid of it. May be worth it









John


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/14756001
> 
> 
> As I have mentioned before, this started well before ARC for me. I believe since I got my AVM 50. Maybe I the upgrade to V2 might get rid of it. May be worth it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Can you guys take a video of the sound and put it on YouTube, would love to hear this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eXcessive* /forum/post/14755407
> 
> 
> Not sure if this is news but, I was at a local show today and the Anthem Reps were present. I was informed that the AVM50v2 would hopefully be out by November. The D2 v2 will be out before that.
> 
> 
> One interesting point is that it will have 8 HDMI inputs and 2 HDMI outputs (AVM50) however the outputs are in parrallel so if you have a source thats 1080p & 720p it won't output 2 different signals so your 720p source will not work.
> 
> *This however is planned to be corrected in a software update a few months down the road.* This is an issue for me since I have a 1080p FP but a 720p older RPTV.



The other news in your post has been confirmed by other posters here as well, but yours is the first report we've had that there may be a future firmware update to enable distinct video output setups for the two HDMI outputs! Let's hope a "few months down the road" really is just a few months?


By the way, even without any such change, it is easy for you to use your 1080p FP and your older 720p RPTV so long as you don't need both of them to be live at the same time.


Just set up two Video Output Configurations and you can switch which one is active on the fly via the remote. You can even set up some Source definitions to use one and some to use the other so that your preferred Video Output choice happens automatically when you select that Source for input.

--Bob


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14708343
> 
> 
> While we are waiting for the new v.2 and more ARC upgrades, what is happening to the promised update that would solve the HDMI connection to HTPC's?
> 
> I still have to reboot my HTPC every time I want to project something.
> 
> Any prospect for a solution in the near future?



I've found I can force detection of the D2 without a reboot by using PowerStrip and MonInfo (both at www.entechtaiwan.com ). I'm using Windows XP with a NVidia GeForce 7800.


Run MonInfo once to detect your D2 and other display(s). This info is stored in a file that PowerStrip knows about. Each time you want to project, run PowerStrip and click the "Enable Multiple Monitors" action. The NVidia Control Panel can now see the D2 as an additional display.


----------



## eXcessive

Thanks bob for the info I will do that










The Anthem rep, who like I said I believe is there Sales manager since my local dealer has had contact with him before and was able to give me the scoop on the HDMI 1.3 announcements well before CEDIA was crystal clear that the issue to provide configuration of the output signal via HDMI is not a hardware limiation and will be corrected via a software update.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/14757259
> 
> 
> I've found I can force detection of the D2 without a reboot by using PowerStrip and MonInfo (both at www.entechtaiwan.com ). I'm using Windows XP with a NVidia GeForce 7800.
> 
> 
> Run MonInfo once to detect your D2 and other display(s). This info is stored in a file that PowerStrip knows about. Each time you want to project, run PowerStrip and click the "Enable Multiple Monitors" action. The NVidia Control Panel can now see the D2 as an additional display.



This is very useful information! A lot of folks with HTPC equipment have run into variations of this problem.

--Bob


----------



## DEHAAS

Bob, thanks for your answer regarding the expansion port.



I have another question. I am using the Behringer DEQ2496 (sound processor with various EQ functionalities etc. http://behringer.com/DEQ2496/index.cfm?lang=ENG ) Naturally this unit requires digital signals to manipulate, so it incorporates and ADC and DAC.


Now I am running balanced audio signals from my AVM-50 to the stack of DEQ2496’s. Is it possible to get the processed digital signals from the Antem, thereby avoiding the unnecessary analog-digital converting? The DEQ2496 has the capability to input digital signals through AES/EBU or optical.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mclsound* /forum/post/14753101
> 
> 
> hi guys,i have a d2,and it has all kinds of clicking and poping sounds when i use the volume and bass/treble controls. Now some may not be to worried but my system(MTTM(atc mids,scanspeak 9700 tweeters,dual 12" Volt/ side)) ..Dual 8" Volt,atc mid,9700 in center channel and 8" Volt and 9700 in rears, also 2 CSS -SDX 15 subs on a Crown K2.
> 
> Bryston 14Bsst
> 
> 4Bsst
> 
> Classe ca-400
> 
> Bryston 10bLR
> 
> as you can see i hear all sounds and the ones coming out of my D2 are quite annoying,i mean for the money$$$$$$$$$$.
> 
> is there any solutions yet for this problem, especially since there is a V2 comming out.
> 
> thanks for any feedback
> 
> John




Nice speakers! I'm a big ATC fan (all ATC speakers). Do you only hear the clicking and popping if you rapidly turn the volume control? I don't think I've ever experienced this though.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DEHAAS* /forum/post/14757683
> 
> 
> Bob, thanks for your answer regarding the expansion port.
> 
> 
> 
> I have another question. I am using the Behringer DEQ2496 (sound processor with various EQ functionalities etc. http://behringer.com/DEQ2496/index.cfm?lang=ENG ) Naturally this unit requires digital signals to manipulate, so it incorporates and ADC and DAC.
> 
> 
> Now I am running balanced audio signals from my AVM-50 to the stack of DEQ2496's. Is it possible to get the processed digital signals from the Antem, thereby avoiding the unnecessary analog-digital converting? The DEQ2496 has the capability to input digital signals through AES/EBU or optical.



I don't think this can be done. Unprocessed, maybe via digital rec-out.


----------



## Massimo N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mclsound* /forum/post/14753101
> 
> 
> hi guys,i have a d2,and it has all kinds of clicking and poping sounds when i use the volume and bass/treble controls. Now some may not be to worried but my system(MTTM(atc mids,scanspeak 9700 tweeters,dual 12" Volt/ side)) ..Dual 8" Volt,atc mid,9700 in center channel and 8" Volt and 9700 in rears, also 2 CSS -SDX 15 subs on a Crown K2.
> 
> Bryston 14Bsst
> 
> 4Bsst
> 
> Classe ca-400
> 
> Bryston 10bLR
> 
> as you can see i hear all sounds and the ones coming out of my D2 are quite annoying,i mean for the money$$$$$$$$$$.
> 
> is there any solutions yet for this problem, especially since there is a V2 comming out.
> 
> thanks for any feedback
> 
> John



I'd drop Anthem an e-mail. They're really good at getting back to you to try to resolve the issue.


It's been a while, but I think I had this issue a couple of years ago with my then AVM30 (now AVM30 HD ARC). There was a batch of power supplies that were faulty. Unfortunately, the AVM had to go back to Anthem for a new power supply, but since then it's been rock solid.


----------



## muad'dib

I have installed many D2's with ARC, and have ran into this Clicking problem.. It's very noticable when adjusting the Bass/Treble control fast up/down when playing a source..










I emailed Nick about this and he stated it's a problem with the fimware and will be fixed in future..


If you have firmware 1.11 you will not have this issue, just 1.21 on does... Very strange...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DEHAAS* /forum/post/14757683
> 
> 
> Bob, thanks for your answer regarding the expansion port.
> 
> 
> 
> I have another question. I am using the Behringer DEQ2496 (sound processor with various EQ functionalities etc. http://behringer.com/DEQ2496/index.cfm?lang=ENG ) Naturally this unit requires digital signals to manipulate, so it incorporates and ADC and DAC.
> 
> 
> Now I am running balanced audio signals from my AVM-50 to the stack of DEQ2496’s. Is it possible to get the processed digital signals from the Antem, thereby avoiding the unnecessary analog-digital converting? The DEQ2496 has the capability to input digital signals through AES/EBU or optical.



The Digital Record outputs of the Anthem will output a coax, optical or AES/EBU digital audio input or a digitized version of an ANALOG DSP input. Except for digitizing an ANALOG DSP input there is no processing done on the signal prior to output -- e.g., input DD5.1 or DTS goes out as the identical DD5.1 or DTS. These outputs are intended for use with digital recorders. Note that HDMI audio input can not be output on these due to copy protection, nor can ANALOG DIRECT input be used since it never gets digitized. There are various different ways to control which source device is selected for copying to the Digital Record outputs.


The HDMI output of the Anthem includes a two-channel LPCM down mix of whatever is currently being processed for audio on the Main source path. This is intended to get audio into an HDMI TV's built-in stereo speakers.


See Section 2.2 of the Manual, and Sections 3.6 - 3.9 for the Digital Record output.


But there is no way that I know of to get to the real, multi-channel, processed, digital audio stream inside the Anthem at the last moment before it is converted to analog for output to your power amp (or in your case to your external EQ device). So for example you can't get a digital version of the results after ARC processing.


Again, for an HDMI input copy protection would prevent Anthem from offering any such solution (except on a copy protected HDMI output), but there's no licensing reason they couldn't do it for other audio sources. You might want to send an email to Anthem suggesting this as a possible new feature.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mclsound* /forum/post/14753101
> 
> 
> hi guys,i have a d2,and it has all kinds of clicking and poping sounds when i use the volume and bass/treble controls. Now some may not be to worried but my system(MTTM(atc mids,scanspeak 9700 tweeters,dual 12" Volt/ side)) ..Dual 8" Volt,atc mid,9700 in center channel and 8" Volt and 9700 in rears, also 2 CSS -SDX 15 subs on a Crown K2.
> 
> Bryston 14Bsst
> 
> 4Bsst
> 
> Classe ca-400
> 
> Bryston 10bLR
> 
> as you can see i hear all sounds and the ones coming out of my D2 are quite annoying,i mean for the money$$$$$$$$$$.
> 
> is there any solutions yet for this problem, especially since there is a V2 comming out.
> 
> thanks for any feedback
> 
> John



I don't have any easy answers for you on this one.


You should give Anthem tech support a call and give them a chance to work the problem with you. You may have a hardware fault.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/14757259
> 
> 
> I've found I can force detection of the D2 without a reboot by using PowerStrip and MonInfo (both at www.entechtaiwan.com ). I'm using Windows XP with a NVidia GeForce 7800.
> 
> 
> Run MonInfo once to detect your D2 and other display(s). This info is stored in a file that PowerStrip knows about. Each time you want to project, run PowerStrip and click the "Enable Multiple Monitors" action. The NVidia Control Panel can now see the D2 as an additional display.



Thank you but how do I achieve that when my only viewing display connected to my HTPC is in fact my D2 followed by my projector?

Do you understand that when I light up my system I only get a black screen forcing me to go into hybernate and then powerup?

This issue is not solved yet.


----------



## vivekg

I had a similar problem with my mac mini and the D2. To fix this problem I used a product called: Gefen DVI Detective Plus. The way this works is I hook it up directly between my mac mini and my tv. Then I set up everything the way I want and then have the DVI Detective Plus memorize the EDID information from my display. Then I hook up my mac mini to the D2 (with the DVI Detective Plus in place). From this point forward the DVI Detective Plus always provides the mac mini with the valid choice list from the display which makes sure that I always get my 1080p option and no more blank displays.


Vivek


PREVIOUSLY USED INCORRECT PRODUCT NAME FOR WHAT I HAVE: DVI Doctor should have been DVI Detective Plus (Gefen)


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14753248
> 
> 
> I've not heard any update on this issue. If you get an update from Anthem, please do post here.
> 
> --Bob



Response from Nick on the hiss issue:


"_Hi,


Not yet - getting AVM 50v and D2v finished before we can work on other things including the AVM 50 hiss.


Nick"_


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14765536
> 
> 
> Response from Nick on the hiss issue:
> 
> 
> "_Hi,
> 
> 
> Not yet - getting AVM 50v and D2v finished before we can work on other things including the AVM 50 hiss.
> 
> 
> Nick"_



I was afraid that might be the case.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14765546
> 
> 
> I was afraid that might be the case.
> 
> --Bob



Are the AVM50v and D2v the new units?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14765808
> 
> 
> Are the AVM50v and D2v the new units?



I'm assuming he's started abbreviating what Anthem marketing has, in their wisdom, decide to name the "AVM-50 v.2" and "D2 v.2"


Personally, I rather wish they had taken the lawsuit risk of calling it the "Release-2 Statement D2", or R2D2 for short....










--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14765913
> 
> 
> \\
> 
> 
> Personally, I rather wish they had taken the lawsuit risk of calling it the "Release-2 Statement D2", or R2D2 for short....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I can't imagine Lucas has the legal rights to R2D2 since it came from a mixer asking to put up reel 2, dialog 2...










Just a geeky sound mixer fact I thought you might enjoy, if you didn't know that already.


----------



## rsnodgrass

I'm running my Linn front and center channels in active mode (no crossovers) and my amp allows for adjusting the gain PER DRIVER. If I plan to run ARC should I first adjust all the drivers in the system to be consistent dB level with a SPL meter? If so I guess the steps would be:


1. Connect one driver at a time, measure with SPL to achieve some consistent dB level. Make gain adjustment for each driver in my amp.


2. Once done adjusting per-driver levels, then use the D2 per-speaker gain setting with an SPL to level all the speakers together.


3. Finally run ARC (since if I recall ARC doesn't actually adjust SPL for each speaker...only adjusts the overall curve)


Does this sound like the right approach? Thanks!


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14765996
> 
> 
> I can't imagine Lucas has the legal rights to R2D2 since it came from a mixer asking to put up reel 2, dialog 2...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a geeky sound mixer fact I thought you might enjoy, if you didn't know that already.



Film Mixer good to see you back more often, you still going to get the V2 when it comes out?


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14765996
> 
> 
> I can't imagine Lucas has the legal rights to R2D2 since it came from a mixer asking to put up reel 2, dialog 2...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a geeky sound mixer fact I thought you might enjoy, if you didn't know that already.



That's cool!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/14765996
> 
> 
> I can't imagine Lucas has the legal rights to R2D2 since it came from a mixer asking to put up reel 2, dialog 2...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a geeky sound mixer fact I thought you might enjoy, if you didn't know that already.



Fun trivia!


But I'd be amazed if the merchandising guys at Lucas haven't locked down rights to "R2D2"(TM) tighter than a drum. Heck they even went after the recent iPhone application that mimicked the light-saber sound effect.


---------------------------


And hah! I know of a guy at Lucas whose on screen appearance comes from portraying Captain Kirk's eyeball in the retinal scan security scene of one of the Star Trek movies. (They weren't about to get Shatner to sit through that!) Now that's trivia.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsnodgrass* /forum/post/14766368
> 
> 
> I'm running my Linn front and center channels in active mode (no crossovers) and my amp allows for adjusting the gain PER DRIVER. If I plan to run ARC should I first adjust all the drivers in the system to be consistent dB level with a SPL meter? If so I guess the steps would be:
> 
> 
> 1. Connect one driver at a time, measure with SPL to achieve some consistent dB level. Make gain adjustment for each driver in my amp.
> 
> 
> 2. Once done adjusting per-driver levels, then use the D2 per-speaker gain setting with an SPL to level all the speakers together.
> 
> 
> 3. Finally run ARC (since if I recall ARC doesn't actually adjust SPL for each speaker...only adjusts the overall curve)
> 
> 
> Does this sound like the right approach? Thanks!



Set up the speakers individually as best you can to balance the drivers in each speaker. ARC will be hearing all of the drivers making up each speaker as a unit for each speaker so essentially you are rolling your own speaker design here.


There's no need to fiddle with the D2's speaker volume trims as ARC will calculate and set these for you. The only thing ARC uses in the Setup / Speaker Calibration menu is the Noise Level line -- which it uses to adjust the volume of its test sweep tones.


After you take your ARC Measurements, look at the Measured curves for each speaker to see if there are any glaring issues in the balance between the drivers for any given speaker. If so, adjust the drivers for that speaker and redo your ARC Measurements.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14766532
> 
> 
> Film Mixer good to see you back more often, you still going to get the V2 when it comes out?



Let's just say my names in the queue.... let's see what my bank account says in a month or two.


----------



## rsnodgrass

Thanks Bob, I'll balance each driver and re-run ARC and let you know how it all turns out.


----------



## mclsound




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14758115
> 
> 
> Nice speakers! I'm a big ATC fan (all ATC speakers). Do you only hear the clicking and popping if you rapidly turn the volume control? I don't think I've ever experienced this though.



hi, yes and bass/treble,source changes,very scary at loud levels.i was told from a store installer thatthe latest firmware is the cause?

john


----------



## Kafka_c

Hi,


I recently upgraded my AVM 20 to the AVM 50 for the video processor. I was using the DVDO VP30 with the add on card.


First issue:


I cannot get the preset resolution at 1366x768 to work with the plasma. This is weird since its there for plasma's with that resolution (which the TH50PH9UK has). I get no signal when I select it from the video settings. Emailed support, and he said to make sure its set to Extended RPG, which it is. Still no signal? Anyone run into this on there TH50PH9UK? It should work!


Second issue:


So I went about setting my own custom resolution using the settings found way back in the thread. For reference the settings are:


Horizontal Size Total: 1794

Horizontal Size Active: 1366

Horizontal Sync Start: 24

Horizontal Sync End: 272

Vertical Size Total: 806

Vertical Size Active: 768

Vertical Sync Start: 3

Vertical Sync End: 4

Field Active Size: 768

Field Black Size 37

Offset: 0

Pixel Clock Rate: 86750000


NOTE: these are significantly different then the preset settings in the AVM 50. I know this because, when in the custom settings setup, I imported those settings to look at them.


Well these setting did produce an image. At first I was very happy that I had it working. BUT I cannot tell if I'm actually getting 1 to 1 pixel mapping.


*** On my old processor there was a test screen you could bring up for this. Can't find that on the AVM 50, does it exist? ***


Also:


I had originally set the output resolution of the AVM 50 (before figuring out the custom resolution) to 1080i (NOTE "i"), since this filled the plasma screen and tends to be the input resolution for most of the HD T.V. I watch here in Canada.


*** Now this is an EXCELLENT picture, BUT I'm under the understanding that by doing this I've essentially neutered the scaler on the AVM 50, since the signal is being now scaled by the TH50PH9UK. Is this true? Am I only using the AVM 50 in this case to process the image? (i.e clean it up and make the 1080i better image quality) ***


*** Because this is the weird thing. Now that I have the custom settings working, at what is supposed to be 1 to 1 pixel mapping (I really need to find a way to confirm this), I LIKE the 1080i picture better. It is crisper and more vibrant and the blacks do not look "squashed"


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2 v.2: Two HDMI outputs but only one output resolution.*


I've got bad news for folks hoping that a future firmware upgrade might enable the upcoming D2 v.2 to output different video resolutions on its two HDMI outputs.


Nick from Anthem just emailed me that there is a hardware limitation: Only one scaled output resolution can be produced at a time in the D2 v.2.


In the initial release firmware for the D2 v.2, the two HDMI outputs will carry precisely the same signal (both outputs active simultaneously).


After they get that shipped they'll see what flexibility they can add in firmware. For example, he thinks they might be able to provide distinct Data Format settings on the two outputs.


But the hardware will only process the input to one scaled output resolution at a time.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kafka_c* /forum/post/14770998
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I recently upgraded my AVM 20 to the AVM 50 for the video processor. I was using the DVDO VP30 with the add on card.
> 
> 
> First issue:
> 
> 
> I cannot get the preset resolution at 1366x768 to work with the plasma. This is weird since its there for plasma's with that resolution (which the TH50PH9UK has). I get no signal when I select it from the video settings. Emailed support, and he said to make sure its set to Extended RPG, which it is. Still no signal? Anyone run into this on there TH50PH9UK? It should work!
> 
> 
> Second issue:
> 
> 
> So I went about setting my own custom resolution using the settings found way back in the thread. For reference the settings are:
> 
> 
> Horizontal Size Total: 1794
> 
> Horizontal Size Active: 1366
> 
> Horizontal Sync Start: 24
> 
> Horizontal Sync End: 272
> 
> Vertical Size Total: 806
> 
> Vertical Size Active: 768
> 
> Vertical Sync Start: 3
> 
> Vertical Sync End: 4
> 
> Field Active Size: 768
> 
> Field Black Size 37
> 
> Offset: 0
> 
> Pixel Clock Rate: 86750000
> 
> 
> NOTE: these are significantly different then the preset settings in the AVM 50. I know this because, when in the custom settings setup, I imported those settings to look at them.
> 
> 
> Well these setting did produce an image. At first I was very happy that I had it working. BUT I cannot tell if I'm actually getting 1 to 1 pixel mapping.
> 
> 
> *** On my old processor there was a test screen you could bring up for this. Can't find that on the AVM 50, does it exist? ***
> 
> 
> Also:
> 
> 
> I had originally set the output resolution of the AVM 50 (before figuring out the custom resolution) to 1080i (NOTE "i"), since this filled the plasma screen and tends to be the input resolution for most of the HD T.V. I watch here in Canada.
> 
> 
> *** Now this is an EXCELLENT picture, BUT I'm under the understanding that by doing this I've essentially neutered the scaler on the AVM 50, since the signal is being now scaled by the TH50PH9UK. Is this true? Am I only using the AVM 50 in this case to process the image? (i.e clean it up and make the 1080i better image quality) ***
> 
> 
> *** Because this is the weird thing. Now that I have the custom settings working, at what is supposed to be 1 to 1 pixel mapping (I really need to find a way to confirm this), I LIKE the 1080i picture better. It is crisper and more vibrant and the blacks do not look "squashed"


----------



## Kafka_c




> Quote:
> The Anthem does not offer a test pattern for confirming 1:1 pixel mapping. But if you aren't getting any pixel cropping in the panel the 1366x768 active imaging you are sending from the Anthem should be what you need.



Thanks for the reply. How does you tell if you are seeing pixel cropping? What do you look for?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kafka_c* /forum/post/14771910
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. How does you tell if you are seeing pixel cropping? What do you look for?



The easiest thing to do is to use a calibration DVD or Blu-Ray and find the chart that shows the geometry of the display. Typically they will have indicators that count down along each edge. On some such discs the chart will even be names Pixel Cropping. If you can see the 0 pixel indicator on each edge with equal width then you don't have pixel cropping.


If the display has overscan turned on, for example, this will be obvious even when playing the SD-DVD version of such charts.

--Bob


----------



## Kafka_c

Thanks Bob,


A follow up question to your first answer. Why would it look so good (color, sharpness, blacks), and it does look amazing, in 1080i. While not as good in native? If the display is not calibrated correctly, and it does need some tinkering for sure, shouldn't these color, sharpness, and black deficiencies be present in the 1080i to the same degree as in the native?


This difference is really what is confusing me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kafka_c* /forum/post/14772407
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> A follow up question to your first answer. Why would it look so good (color, sharpness, blacks), and it does look amazing, in 1080i. While not as good in native? If the display is not calibrated correctly, and it does need some tinkering for sure, shouldn't these color, sharpness, and black deficiencies be present in the 1080i to the same degree as in the native?
> 
> 
> This difference is really what is confusing me.



Unfortunately I don't know your display, nor what if anything needs to be done differently to calibrate it properly when it is fed the native resolution. But your comment about blacks being messed up makes it pretty obvious that something is screwed up there. Resolution and signal timing will not alter the appearance of blacks.


By the way, those signal timings you are using now were reported to have been derived from the timings being used in other video processors that had found a way to make the Panasonic panels happy. So they have been known to work.


I would start with the assumption that some adjustment in the display simpy doesn't function when the display is sent its native resolution, even though it functions when "normal" HDTV resolutions are fed to the display.


Thus you can calibrate the 1080i input but not the 1366x768p input.


Perhaps some of the other folks here using Panasonic panels can chime in.


Typically for an HDMI display you will want to use YCbCr from the Anthem and for a DVI display you will want to use Studio RGB from the Anthem. Start there and use a calibration DVD to adjust your display specifically for the 1366x768 input.


You may also need to ask questions in the appropriate thread for your model in the display forum.

--Bob


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14759781
> 
> 
> Thank you but how do I achieve that when my only viewing display connected to my HTPC is in fact my D2 followed by my projector?
> 
> Do you understand that when I light up my system I only get a black screen forcing me to go into hybernate and then powerup?
> 
> This issue is not solved yet.



May not help in your case but, FYI, I was never able to get my HTPC (NVidia Video Cards) to work through the D2 (D2 connected to a Sharp XV-Z20000 DLP Projector) properly. So I used the second HDMI on the projector for the video from the HTPC with the audio direct to the D2 (creative 5.1 analog).


I recently completed an upgrade for our HTPC (still using XP service pack 3) that included an ATI 4870 card (killer card BTW)... Just for kicks I tested it using the free HDMI port on the D2 and low and behold, works like a charm... doesn't matter the startup order or how often I change inputs on the D2 to another input while the computer is on or whether or not I power cycle the HTPC while the D2 is on... I always have video from the HTPC!


Note the EDID handshake is still not quite right as the video card thinks the D2 can't do 1080p60 or 1080p24 but you can force the availability of those with the ATI console and they work fine. I even tried the HDMI sound device included on the card but was only able to get 2 channel out of it so I now use dolby digital live from the creative X-FI card. Bluray, HD-DVD and games sourced from the HTPC through the D2 all work fine.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kafka_c* /forum/post/14770998
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I recently upgraded my AVM 20 to the AVM 50 for the video processor. I was using the DVDO VP30 with the add on card.
> 
> 
> First issue:
> 
> 
> I cannot get the preset resolution at 1366x768 to work with the plasma. This is weird since its there for plasma's with that resolution (which the TH50PH9UK has). I get no signal when I select it from the video settings. Emailed support, and he said to make sure its set to Extended RPG, which it is. Still no signal? Anyone run into this on there TH50PH9UK? It should work!
> 
> .



You don't mention what input you're using for your display. But the Panasonic commercial plasmas will only do native resolution with a DVI blade and not with the HDMI blade. The HDMI blade will not accept a 1366x768 resolution input.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/14773122
> 
> 
> May not help in your case but, FYI, I was never able to get my HTPC (NVidia Video Cards) to work through the D2 (D2 connected to a Sharp XV-Z20000 DLP Projector) properly. So I used the second HDMI on the projector for the video from the HTPC with the audio direct to the D2 (creative 5.1 analog).
> 
> 
> I recently completed an upgrade for our HTPC (still using XP service pack 3) that included an ATI 4870 card (killer card BTW)... Just for kicks I tested it using the free HDMI port on the D2 and low and behold, works like a charm... doesn't matter the startup order or how often I change inputs on the D2 to another input while the computer is on or whether or not I power cycle the HTPC while the D2 is on... I always have video from the HTPC!
> 
> 
> Note the EDID handshake is still not quite right as the video card thinks the D2 can't do 1080p60 or 1080p24 but you can force the availability of those with the ATI console and they work fine. I even tried the HDMI sound device included on the card but was only able to get 2 channel out of it so I now use dolby digital live from the creative X-FI card. Bluray, HD-DVD and games sourced from the HTPC through the D2 all work fine.



Well, this is interesting. I also use an nVidia 8600GTS and a Sharp Xv-Z20000. But my only problem was at starting the system. After a boot of the HTPC I never had a problem with the resolutions or quality.

Now about the ATI card, does this mean that ATI works better with the D2?

Can somebody else confirm that?


----------



## Kafka_c




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/14774179
> 
> 
> You don't mention what input you're using for your display. But the Panasonic commercial plasmas will only do native resolution with a DVI blade and not with the HDMI blade. The HDMI blade will not accept a 1366x768 resolution input.



Yes I'm using a DVI blade.


----------



## [email protected]

Bob,

I have an AVM-50 and I noticed that when I tried to play Iron Man I was not getting any center channel sound. I played other movies and was able to confirm that it happens with every movie I tried to play. I checked to see if it was the speaker itself but the speaker is fine. Nothing has really changed in my setup since the last time I watched a movie. Any ideas of what it could be? Could it be a hardware issue in the Anthem? Thanks for your help.










German


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/14782050
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I have an AVM-50 and I noticed that when I tried to play Iron Man I was not getting any center channel sound. I played other movies and was able to confirm that it happens with every movie I tried to play. I checked to see if it was the speaker itself but the speaker is fine. Nothing has really changed in my setup since the last time I watched a movie. Any ideas of what it could be? Could it be a hardware issue in the Anthem? Thanks for your help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> German



It could be hardware, but try some simpler stuff first.


The first thing to check is whether you can get the internal test tones in the AVM-50 to come out on the Center speaker. Do that in Setup > Speaker Calibration. If you CAN, that pretty much eliminates a hardware problem and says you just have a setup problem.


Next double check that you have correctly assigned the Movie speaker configuration to your player Setup > Source Setup definition and that the Movie speaker configuration has a Center speaker included.


One easy way to check this is to press Select repeatedly while playing the movie and make sure that the "C" speaker is showing both in the input and output set of channels that get shown. If you are getting no "C" on input then you need to look to your player's output settings. If you are getting no "C" on output (but you are getting multi-channel sound) then you need to check the Anthem's Speaker Configuration settings


It is also possible to mistakenly cut most/all of the Center speaker output using the "temporary" audio adjustments on the Remote. You can clear all of those at once by:


* Save User Settings

* Reload Factor Defaults

* Reload Saved User Settings


If none of this leads to an obvious answer, you should give Anthem tech support a call to see if they want you to try anything else first, but odds are they will ask you to try re-installing the V1.33 firmware before deciding this might be a hardware problem.

--Bob


----------



## ripclawsa

It's been awhile since I've last visited this thread, so I hope someone can provide answers to the following:


1) Have Anthem resolved most, if not all, of the problems that existing D2 owners faced, e.g. HDMI incompatabilities, overheating, faulty HDMI jacks, etc.?


2) Will the upcoming D2 v2 have a newer version of the Gennum video processing chip, or should I look at an outboard video processor like the Lumagen Radiance?


3) Is anyone doing any beta testing of the D2 v2, and if so, what are your impressions so far?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

1) Yes. A long time ago for the problems that were real in the D2. Even longer for the problems that simply involved misunderstandings. Nevertheless, HDMI driver development is still continuing at Anthem since HDMI itself still has problems.


2) Yes. You can catch up on what we know about the D2 v.2 by reading this thread starting from this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post14589926 


Details of the new Sigma Designs VXP chip (Sigma purchased the VXP business from Gennum earlier this year) will be found in that discussion as well. Personally I see no need to consider an additional external processor.


3) Generally speaking, anyone doing Beta testing will likely be bound by a Non Disclosure Agreement or an equivalent informal agreement. So far we have had no posts here from folks saying they are Beta testers.

--Bob


----------



## jlwine

It wasn't the speaker line fuse that had blown, it was the power input line fuse. The fuse in there was a 12amp (which is correct for this Krell if hooked up to 220v) after speaking with Krell it is suppose to have a 20amp fuse for 120v. So the surprize is that it has never blown in the six years before. I'm not sure why it had the undersize fuse but I have not had any issues since replacing it with the proper rated amperage.


----------



## jclem

Hey folks, I'm back to the Anthem forums after a time away enjoying my AVM50. I read with great interest that ARC has been made available for the '50' and I have a few preliminary questions. I called my local dealer to ask about pricing and I'm pretty sure he said $400. I was stunned because I was expecting $1000's--more like the price difference between the D2 and the '50'. So, with much excitement, I started reading more posts starting with June and saw $800--4 for hardware and 4 for Arc kit. Question 1: Have prices come down or is it a miscommunication between the dealer and me where he maybe thought I had a D2 rather than the AVM 50?

Question 2: If I go ahead with the ARC upgrade, is moving speakers often necessary or can ARC take care of things? My speakers aren't moving, the fronts are built into custom cabinetry and the surrounds and rears are inwalls. The sub can maybe move a little.

I just need to have these questions answered before I go any further, so thanks to all for your help. By the way, after having been a TAG owner, it's very comforting to find this continued support both from the manufacturer and from these forums.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/14789704
> 
> 
> Hey folks, I'm back to the Anthem forums after a time away enjoying my AVM50. I read with great interest that ARC has been made available for the '50' and I have a few preliminary questions. I called my local dealer to ask about pricing and I'm pretty sure he said $400. I was stunned because I was expecting $1000's--more like the price difference between the D2 and the '50'. So, with much excitement, I started reading more posts starting with June and saw $800--4 for hardware and 4 for Arc kit. Question 1: Have prices come down or is it a miscommunication between the dealer and me where he maybe thought I had a D2 rather than the AVM 50?
> 
> Question 2: If I go ahead with the ARC upgrade, is moving speakers often necessary or can ARC take care of things? My speakers aren't moving, the fronts are built into custom cabinetry and the surrounds and rears are inwalls. The sub can maybe move a little.
> 
> I just need to have these questions answered before I go any further, so thanks to all for your help. By the way, after having been a TAG owner, it's very comforting to find this continued support both from the manufacturer and from these forums.



The ARC upgrade for the AVM-50 is $799 plus perhaps some additional money for labor (the dealer swaps out the DSP board for you).


The ARC upgrade for the D2 is $399 (there's no new hardware needed).


Now your dealer is free to charge what he wants, but if you can get an ARC upgrade for your AVM-50 for $400 you've got yourself a bargain!


--------------------------------------


Typically, moving the speaker is NOT necessary. ARC can achieve quite a lot with fixed speakers. But the ARC Measurement charts may show you that you have some problems in the pointing of high mounted wall speakers for example. This doesn't mean you won't get good results with ARC. The bass and mid-range should work fine. But it will give you an idea of what you might want to consider if you ever decide to redo your wall speakers.


-------------------------------------


You should also be aware that there is an AVM-50 v.2 in the works and an upgrade is expected to be offered for current AVM-50 owners to that (expected to be in the $2500 range): A new HDMI and video board with a new video processor, and an even better DSP board. That will probably be available in the next few months. Read back a few pages in this thread for what we know or think we know about it.


If it is of interest to you, you might want to wait a bit on the ARC upgrade so that you aren't paying for a new AVM-50 DSP board (for ARC) only to have to discard it for an even newer DSP board for the v.2.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

Thanks, Bob, good information as usual. I have a feeling there was a "miscom" not a deal going on. I can double check tomorrow. But I guess first I will read back a bit. Thanks again.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

If he will sell a D2 or D2v2 at 50% of list please let everyone know!












> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/14790115
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob, good information as usual. I have a feeling there was a "miscom" not a deal going on. I can double check tomorrow. But I guess first I will read back a bit. Thanks again.


----------



## budeone

I am getting the new Sony BDP-S5000ES player.

http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/...52921665532071 



How will this change my settings in my avm-50? It is replacing the SONY BPS-S1 I have hooked in now.


Thanks


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/14790865
> 
> 
> If he will sell a D2 or D2v2 at 50% of list please let everyone know!



How about, instead of that, I buy a bunch of them at 50% off and sell them to all of you guys for 30% off. It's a win-win!







We can dream can't we?! Well it's off to the real world now...........


----------



## tngiloy

I was googling oppo blu-ray this morning and came upon an AVS thread that had started at cedia this year.

Apparently they had a non-functioning box on display of their blu-ray prototype, BDP-83. Does anyone here have any info on this model and how it would work with the D2?

Does it output in 480i standard dvd via hdmi?

Does it internally decode Dolby and DTS HD audio and output pcm via hdmi?

Does it play SACD, DVD-A, standard DVD video?

Release date?

Price?

I realize that until Oppo officially announces it, all that's available is conjecture and rumor, but I'd appreciate any reliable information available.

Tom


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14799288
> 
> 
> I was googling oppo blu-ray this morning and came upon an AVS thread that had started at cedia this year.
> 
> Apparently they had a non-functioning box on display of their blu-ray prototype, BDP-83. Does anyone here have any info on this model and how it would work with the D2?
> 
> Does it output in 480i standard dvd via hdmi?
> 
> Does it internally decode Dolby and DTS HD audio and output pcm via hdmi?
> 
> Does it play SACD, DVD-A, standard DVD video?
> 
> Release date?
> 
> Price?
> 
> I realize that until Oppo officially announces it, all that's available is conjecture and rumor, but I'd appreciate any reliable information available.
> 
> Tom



The answers are all contained in the thread that you reference.


Yes, it will decode TrueHD and DTS HD (and Master) Audio. It will do SACD, but it is not clear whether it will do DVD-A.


It will do 480i output via HDMI.


No release date.


No price.


----------



## bluemark81

I recently purchased a new power amp, so I thought it might be useful to run through ARC with the new setup. I took all my room measurements and when I went to uplaod the data the first time, it seemed to lock up while uploading my gains. I let it sit for roughly 15 minutes and then decided to abort. I tried running again and it then uploaded my gains no problem, although it seemed slower than when I first purchased the ARC system. However, I can't get it to upload the room correction parameters. It fails each time.


I tried to download version 1.2.5 of ARC to see if I could either reinstall it or run a repair . I tried a repair and the following message comes back: "There is a problem with this windows installer package. A program run as part of the setup did not finish as expected. Contact support personnel."


I am running Windows Vista on a HP pc. This is the same pc as originally used when I first got ARC in August. My AVM-50 is running v1.33.


Anyone know what the problem could be?


Bob, any clues?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14803960
> 
> 
> I recently purchased a new power amp, so I thought it might be useful to run through ARC with the new setup. I took all my room measurements and when I went to uplaod the data the first time, it seemed to lock up while uploading my gains. I let it sit for roughly 15 minutes and then decided to abort. I tried running again and it then uploaded my gains no problem, although it seemed slower than when I first purchased the ARC system. However, I can't get it to upload the room correction parameters. It fails each time.
> 
> 
> I tried to download version 1.2.5 of ARC to see if I could either reinstall it or run a repair . I tried a repair and the following message comes back: "There is a problem with this windows installer package. A program run as part of the setup did not finish as expected. Contact support personnel."
> 
> 
> I am running Windows Vista on a HP pc. This is the same pc as originally used when I first got ARC in August. My AVM-50 is running v1.33.
> 
> 
> Anyone know what the problem could be?
> 
> 
> Bob, any clues?



For such a problem I would first try to un-install the software using the Vista "add/remove programs". Then I would restart the installation from scratch.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As Tolstoi says, to re-install the ARC application, first uninstall it using Windows' Add/Remove Programs feature. Uninstalling it should still leave your pair of licensing and calibration files in place, so you should not need to manually copy them to the installation folder after you do the new install of ARC v1.2.5.


That said, I doubt your problem is in the ARC application itself, but either in the AVM-50 or in your serial connection to the AVM-50.


Since this setup has worked before for you for ARC, I think it would be a good idea for you to give Anthem tech support a call and let them work the problem with you. The Upload of ARC stuff should not just hang like that even if you are having serial connection problems. It would require the serial connection to slow way down without actually failing, which is unusual.


As is often the case with Windows, sometimes just rebooting the machine is a way to cure odd system issues.

--Bob


----------



## zr123

I'm having a bit of a runaround, and have come to the point where I've started to yank the hairs in my head!


Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.


We're looking at purchasing the Anthem AVM 50 for our dedicated home theatre room, however don't want to make a commitment until we're certain the V2 is coming out. The Anthem dealer that we're purchasing the products from says that early November is the date of release for the new V2 pre-pro (as per his Anthem rep). However when I call Anthem support, they say that the release date is "most likely" 1st quarter of '09. Although nothing is official in the books, does anyone have any sort of confirmation of when the new AVM50 V2 might release?


I've been on Anthem's site several times, but find the tech specs/features sheet a bit hard to read. We've been told the AVM 50 has a built in scaler that will do the anamorphic processing from 16:9 -> 2.35:1 and vice versa. Is that true?


Again, any help is much appreciated.


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

zr123,

The AVM-50 v.2 is not officially announced yet by Anthem the way the D2 v.2 is. I suspect your Anthem rep is being a bit optimistic and the folks on the Anthem phone line are being a bit too cautious in quoting you a date, but we don't really know. Personally, I suspect the D2 v.2 will ship about a month before the AVM-50 v.2 ships, and I expect the D2 v.2 will ship before the end of the year. Pricing has not been finalized for these either and you are likely to get price quotes now that end up being a bit higher than the real price when the product finally ships (again, this is just the Anthem people being cautious).


----------------------------------------


Check the "Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling" links collected in the first post of this thread for some help in determining what the video solution in the AVM-50 can do for you.


If you have a Constant Image Height projection setup -- where you use an anamorphic lens to optically stretch 16:9 content to fill a 2.35:1 screen -- then the AVM-50 will indeed perform the necessary vertical stretch to expand 2.35: 1 content off disc into 16:9 for output to that projector so that the final result is proper 2.35:1 on your screen.


However the inverse is not true. The AVM-50 will not "squeeze" a 16:9 image horizontally so that you can use the same anamorphic lens on your projector while viewing real 16:9 content (filling the screen top to bottom but using only the central portion of the screen left to right). Instead you need to change out the anamorphic lens in the projector for a normal lens -- or live with an image that has been stretched horizontally by your anamorphic lens.


Doing such a squeeze would, of course, discard significant horizontal resolution, but I suspect the real reason Anthem has not offered it is a limitation in the current video processor chip used in the AVM-50. Anthem has told me they DO believe they can add this "squeeze" feature using the NEW video processor chip in the D2 v.2 (and AVM-50 v.2), but it will certainly not be in the software that first ships with those.

--Bob


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14810886
> 
> 
> zr123,
> 
> The AVM-50 v.2 is not officially announced yet by Anthem the way the D2 v.2 is. I suspect your Anthem rep is being a bit optimistic and the folks on the Anthem phone line are being a bit too cautious in quoting you a date, but we don't really know. Personally, I suspect the D2 v.2 will ship about a month before the AVM-50 v.2 ships, and I expect the D2 v.2 will ship before the end of the year. Pricing has not been finalized for these either and you are likely to get price quotes now that end up being a bit higher than the real price when the product finally ships (again, this is just the Anthem people being cautious).
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Check the "Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling" links collected in the first post of this thread for some help in determining what the video solution in the AVM-50 can do for you.
> 
> 
> If you have a Constant Image Height projection setup -- where you use an anamorphic lens to optically stretch 16:9 content to fill a 2.35:1 screen -- then the AVM-50 will indeed perform the necessary vertical stretch to expand 2.35: 1 content off disc into 16:9 for output to that projector so that the final result is proper 2.35:1 on your screen.
> 
> 
> However the inverse is not true. The AVM-50 will not "squeeze" a 16:9 image horizontally so that you can use the same anamorphic lens on your projector while viewing real 16:9 content (filling the screen top to bottom but using only the central portion of the screen left to right). Instead you need to change out the anamorphic lens in the projector for a normal lens -- or live with an image that has been stretched horizontally by your anamorphic lens.
> 
> 
> Doing such a squeeze would, of course, discard significant horizontal resolution, but I suspect the real reason Anthem has not offered it is a limitation in the current video processor chip used in the AVM-50. Anthem has told me they DO believe they can add this "squeeze" feature using the NEW video processor chip in the D2 v.2 (and AVM-50 v.2), but it will certainly not be in the software that first ships with those.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thank you very much! Answered several of the questions that I had.


Just one last one, say by chance we decide not to go for the Anthem AVM50 (if the V2 doesn't release on time) and we decide to go for an Onkyo Pro, Integra or Marantz pre-pro... what kind of scalers/video processors should I be looking at in order to be able to successfully have the image go from 16:9 -> 2.35:1. Even a point in the right direction would be great.


Thanks again!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/14810932
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thank you very much! Answered several of the questions that I had.
> 
> 
> Just one last one, say by chance we decide not to go for the Anthem AVM50 (if the V2 doesn't release on time) and we decide to go for an Onkyo Pro, Integra or Marantz pre-pro... what kind of scalers/video processors should I be looking at in order to be able to successfully have the image go from 16:9 -> 2.35:1. Even a point in the right direction would be great.
> 
> 
> Thanks again!



I can't really answer that question for you as I've not looked at those AVRs in enough detail.


But I suspect you will find that, unlike the Anthem, NONE of the other major brand AVRs will let you get at anywhere near the full range of processing power of the video processing chips inside them. I suspect that support for custom cropping and scaling -- the thing you need for CIH projection setups will be something that is not offered in those.


Instead, you will probably need to look at stand-alone video processing boxes like the VP50 or Radiance.


-------------------------------------------


My guess would be that if the AVM-50 v.2 is delayed beyond your purchasing window it is quite likely you will be able to work some sort of deal with your Anthem dealer to purchase an AVM-50 now and swap it out when the v.2 ships.


There will also be an upgrade program from Anthem to replace the DSP and video boards in an existing AVM-50 and turn it into a v.2. However, purchasing a v.2 from the get-go (perhaps by making a deal such as the above with your dealer) will undoubtedly be the cheapest way to end up with a v.2. Be sure you also clarify whether the price quote you are getting includes ARC (Anthem Room Correction). It is definitely bundled with every new D2 and new D2 v.2, but the bundling is not clear yet for the AVM-50 v.2.


The v.2 *WILL* ship. I don't think any of us have any doubts about that. It's just the timing that's uncertain.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab

Anyone heard anything more specific on the availability of the D2v2 for new purchases? Supposed to be this month I think, last I heard.


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14811011
> 
> 
> I can't really answer that question for you as I've not looked at those AVRs in enough detail.
> 
> 
> But I suspect you will find that, unlike the Anthem, NONE of the other major brand AVRs will let you get at anywhere near the full range of processing power of the video processing chips inside them. I suspect that support for custom cropping and scaling -- the thing you need for CIH projection setups will be something that is not offered in those.
> 
> 
> Instead, you will probably need to look at stand-alone video processing boxes like the VP50 or Radiance.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> My guess would be that if the AVM-50 v.2 is delayed beyond your purchasing window it is quite likely you will be able to work some sort of deal with your Anthem dealer to purchase an AVM-50 now and swap it out when the v.2 ships.
> 
> 
> There will also be an upgrade program from Anthem to replace the DSP and video boards in an existing AVM-50 and turn it into a v.2. However, purchasing a v.2 from the get-go (perhaps by making a deal such as the above with your dealer) will undoubtedly be the cheapest way to end up with a v.2. Be sure you also clarify whether the price quote you are getting includes ARC (Anthem Room Correction). It is definitely bundled with every new D2 and new D2 v.2, but the bundling is not clear yet for the AVM-50 v.2.
> 
> 
> The v.2 *WILL* ship. I don't think any of us have any doubts about that. It's just the timing that's uncertain.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,


It looks like waiting it out for the AVM 50 V2 or even considering the D2 V2 is probably our best bet.


I'll keep in touch with our local Anthem dealer to see if he can dig up some more info for us.


----------



## RMC22

I own a D1 that's about 2 1/2 yrs old and in great shape. I just found this forum and I'm interested in the possibility of upgrading. Have I read the posts correctly that the estimate to make mine a D2v2 (with ARC) would be about $3k? That's a lot of $ but I might do it if you guys think it makes sense. Would it really be just like a new D2v2? Thanks for your help.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RMC22* /forum/post/14814274
> 
> 
> I own a D1 that's about 2 1/2 yrs old and in great shape. I just found this forum and I'm interested in the possibility of upgrading. Have I read the posts correctly that the estimate to make mine a D2v2 (with ARC) would be about $3k? That's a lot of $ but I might do it if you guys think it makes sense. Would it really be just like a new D2v2? Thanks for your help.



$3K is less than $7+K


But Either way I'm sure you will be HAPPIER with a D2


----------



## ripclawsa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14783342
> 
> 
> 1) Yes. A long time ago for the problems that were real in the D2. Even longer for the problems that simply involved misunderstandings. Nevertheless, HDMI driver development is still continuing at Anthem since HDMI itself still has problems.
> 
> 
> 2) Yes. You can catch up on what we know about the D2 v.2 by reading this thread starting from this post:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post14589926
> 
> 
> Details of the new Sigma Designs VXP chip (Sigma purchased the VXP business from Gennum earlier this year) will be found in that discussion as well. Personally I see no need to consider an additional external processor.
> 
> 
> 3) Generally speaking, anyone doing Beta testing will likely be bound by a Non Disclosure Agreement or an equivalent informal agreement. So far we have had no posts here from folks saying they are Beta testers.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob.


IIRC, you're using a Fujitsu plasma with a DVI input. Can the D2 output the RGB colorspace via its HDMI output to a DVI-equipped display, even though you could be inputting YCbCr into the D2?


Thanks again.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14811129
> 
> 
> Anyone heard anything more specific on the availability of the D2v2 for new purchases? Supposed to be this month I think, last I heard.



This mount?!?! I don't know who lead you to believe that but I can tell you it is not this month.


----------



## yatchaks

I'm wondering if anyone has used a D2 or AVM50 with a Kuro display, or has an opinion on what follows.....


If the Kuro is everything I'm understanding it to be, how helpful would the video processing from the Anthem be to the Kuro? I watch very little SD material so I'm not overly concerned about the SD benefits, but am wanting the most out of HD. However, a slight hit in performance is livable.


Also, I no longer use the AVM50/MCA50 for two channel listening as I now have a seperate rig for critical listing. So.... I'm tossing aroung the idea of selling the Anthem combo and stepping down.


I have not been able to witness the full benefits of the Gennum processor because my current tv (XBR1) uses its own scaler to convert a 1080i signal to 1080p, so I lose some of the benefits of the Gennum. Because I have not witnessed the full benefits of the Gennum video processor, I wonder if I would be making a mistake by selling the Anthem.


Any thoughts?


Mark


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14816060
> 
> 
> This mount?!?! I don't know who lead you to believe that but I can tell you it is not this month.



A page or so back (or on the D3 thread), there was a post that the dealer said the AVMv2 was coming in November, and the D2v2 would be before that.


Ergo, October.


So if you're so confident it's not this month, you must have some sort of information. Care to share when you've heard it should be available (subject to change)?


Thanks,

Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ripclawsa* /forum/post/14815443
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob.
> 
> 
> IIRC, you're using a Fujitsu plasma with a DVI input. Can the D2 output the RGB colorspace via its HDMI output to a DVI-equipped display, even though you could be inputting YCbCr into the D2?
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



Yes, that all works fine. You can input YCbCr in either the HDTV or SDTV color space and output as either Studio RGB (Black=16) or Extended RGB (Black=0).


There is also an HDMI Sync setting (normal/inverted) that can correct for issues in some DVI displays which result in either no video or in video which is shifted horizontally by about 1/3 of the screen.


The most common problem reported here is that folks with DVI displays (DVI projectors seem to be the worst offenders) report that the DVI display doesn't deal well with the Automatic data format handshake. The Anthem gets confused by what the DVI display is responding and sends YCbCr to the display. This results in video which is "shocking pink". The easy fix is to select that you want Studio or Extended RGB output instead of leaving it to the automatic handshake to decide.


My Fujitsu DVI display requires me to explicitly select Studio RGB output and to use the Inverted HDMI Sync setting for example. There is also a setting needed in the display itself to configure it to expect Studio RGB input on the DVI socket. It defaults to Extended RGB in the mistaken assumption that the DVI socket is being used to connect a computer to the display.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RMC22* /forum/post/14814274
> 
> 
> I own a D1 that's about 2 1/2 yrs old and in great shape. I just found this forum and I'm interested in the possibility of upgrading. Have I read the posts correctly that the estimate to make mine a D2v2 (with ARC) would be about $3k? That's a lot of $ but I might do it if you guys think it makes sense. Would it really be just like a new D2v2? Thanks for your help.



It would really be like a new D2 v.2 with the following exceptions:


1) The warranty is extended only for the replaced components -- i.e., the new DSP board, the new video board, and the new back panel. It's not clear to me at this point whether a D1 to D2 v.2 upgrade would also involve replacing the power supply.


2) Obviously there are components which are not new such as the front panel stuff, the remote, the radio tuner, etc. Failures of these are rare, but that's a difference compared to buying a whole new unit.


3) The logos and such on the front panel are not updated to indicate the new capabilities. Beyond mere bragging rights, this may make it a bit harder for you to explain what you've got if you try to sell the upgraded unit down the road.


4) If you already have ARC for your D1, you will need to get a new pair of licensing/calibration files from Anthem since the upgrade will also change the internal serial number in the unit. It is expected that Anthem tech support will provide these for free.


And that's basically it. The feature set and performance characteristics of the upgraded D1 will be identical to a new D2 v.2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/14816712
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone has used a D2 or AVM50 with a Kuro display, or has an opinion on what follows.....
> 
> 
> If the Kuro is everything I'm understanding it to be, how helpful would the video processing from the Anthem be to the Kuro? I watch very little SD material so I'm not overly concerned about the SD benefits, but am wanting the most out of HD. However, a slight hit in performance is livable.
> 
> 
> Also, I no longer use the AVM50/MCA50 for two channel listening as I now have a seperate rig for critical listing. So.... I'm tossing aroung the idea of selling the Anthem combo and stepping down.
> 
> 
> I have not been able to witness the full benefits of the Gennum processor because my current tv (XBR1) uses its own scaler to convert a 1080i signal to 1080p, so I lose some of the benefits of the Gennum. Because I have not witnessed the full benefits of the Gennum video processor, I wonder if I would be making a mistake by selling the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Mark



You don't mention whether you've got the Elite or non-Elite Kuro (the difference being the calibration options), but in either case the video processing in the Kuro is excellent. And if you don't intend to use anything but 720p, 1080i, and 1080p/60 or /24 sources with it, the capabilities of the video processing in the Anthem will be of marginal value to you.


There are still fun tricks of course. For example, in my area, some of the HD channels periodically broadcast letterboxed SD movies embedded in an HD signal. I.e., you've got a 4:3 frame embedded in the broadcast HD frame, and inside that 4:3 frame is a letterboxed movie. That means you've got black around all 4 sides. Keep in mind this is a 1080i signal (which means that zoom modes are likely unavailable in the display). With the Anthem it is easy to set up a Custom Crop that will extract that movie and let you use the full size of your 16:9 display to see it.


But the real advantage of a video processor like the Anthem comes from dealing with a range of video sources of different qualities. Then you can calibrate the Kuro for one, unchanging video signal (from the Anthem) and the Anthem will take care of the rest.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14817387
> 
> 
> A page or so back (or on the D3 thread), there was a post that the dealer said the AVMv2 was coming in November, and the D2v2 would be before that.
> 
> 
> Ergo, October.
> 
> 
> So if you're so confident it's not this month, you must have some sort of information. Care to share when you've heard it should be available (subject to change)?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark



I don't have any info on what the date could be. But, I have enough info to confirm that it will not be in October. Even November seem aggressive.


Will See.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14818853
> 
> 
> I don't have any info on what the date could be. But, I have enough info to confirm that it will not be in October. Even November seem aggressive.
> 
> 
> Will See.



Where are all of the Beta testers when we need them?


----------



## yatchaks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14817620
> 
> 
> You don't mention whether you've got the Elite or non-Elite Kuro (the difference being the calibration options), but in either case the video processing in the Kuro is excellent. And if you don't intend to use anything but 720p, 1080i, and 1080p/60 or /24 sources with it, the capabilities of the video processing in the Anthem will be of marginal value to you.
> 
> 
> There are still fun tricks of course. For example, in my area, some of the HD channels periodically broadcast letterboxed SD movies embedded in an HD signal. I.e., you've got a 4:3 frame embedded in the broadcast HD frame, and inside that 4:3 frame is a letterboxed movie. That means you've got black around all 4 sides. Keep in mind this is a 1080i signal (which means that zoom modes are likely unavailable in the display). With the Anthem it is easy to set up a Custom Crop that will extract that movie and let you use the full size of your 16:9 display to see it.
> 
> 
> But the real advantage of a video processor like the Anthem comes from dealing with a range of video sources of different qualities. Then you can calibrate the Kuro for one, unchanging video signal (from the Anthem) and the Anthem will take care of the rest.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you so much for the reply Bob, much appreciated.


My fault... I neglected to mention which Kuro (which I don't have yet, but will in a week or two) it will be the Elite.


Mark


----------



## ripclawsa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14817456
> 
> 
> Yes, that all works fine. You can input YCbCr in either the HDTV or SDTV color space and output as either Studio RGB (Black=16) or Extended RGB (Black=0).
> 
> 
> There is also an HDMI Sync setting (normal/inverted) that can correct for issues in some DVI displays which result in either no video or in video which is shifted horizontally by about 1/3 of the screen.
> 
> 
> The most common problem reported here is that folks with DVI displays (DVI projectors seem to be the worst offenders) report that the DVI display doesn't deal well with the Automatic data format handshake. The Anthem gets confused by what the DVI display is responding and sends YCbCr to the display. This results in video which is "shocking pink". The easy fix is to select that you want Studio or Extended RGB output instead of leaving it to the automatic handshake to decide.
> 
> 
> My Fujitsu DVI display requires me to explicitly select Studio RGB output and to use the Inverted HDMI Sync setting for example. There is also a setting needed in the display itself to configure it to expect Studio RGB input on the DVI socket. It defaults to Extended RGB in the mistaken assumption that the DVI socket is being used to connect a computer to the display.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob.


FWIW, I've got a Panasonic TH65PF9UK panel. I'm not sure if I need to select anything explicit on my panel, but if I'm going to get a D2, I will double-check if I need to do anything.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/14818975
> 
> 
> Where are all of the Beta testers when we need them?



I was Beta tester for the ARC only.


----------



## aus

This thread is driving me crazy. I'm still looking for a dealer to install ARC since my local dealer 5 minutes away doesn't have ANY interest in Anthem anymore????


Now it sounds like there's a V2 coming out soon!!!


Any chance they'll install a simple USB port (preferably in front) for firmware updates?


Everytime I step away from this thread for a couple months, Anthem comes out with new stuff.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ripclawsa* /forum/post/14823148
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob.
> 
> 
> FWIW, I've got a Panasonic TH65PF9UK panel. I'm not sure if I need to select anything explicit on my panel, but if I'm going to get a D2, I will double-check if I need to do anything.



I don't know if your panel is a 1080p or 768p panel, but we've had numerous reports that some of the Panasonic 768p panels require unusual video signal timings when you try to send them their "native" 768p resolution.


The D2 can do this by creating a Custom video output using the Live Video Settings Editor (a Windows application provided free by Anthem) and uploading that to the D2. The Custom resolution you create then becomes a resolution choice in the Setup > Video Output configuration menu.


There's a link in the first post of this thread to a post documenting the Custom video output setup these folks have been using. Apparently this was derived from the custom timings folks found worked with other stand alone video processors.


I don't know if all the Panasonic 768p panels require this for "native" video, but we've had many reports here that the Custom setup described in that post works just fine for a variety of Panasonic panels. I don't believe any 1080p panels require a special setup like this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/14823953
> 
> 
> This thread is driving me crazy. I'm still looking for a dealer to install ARC since my local dealer 5 minutes away doesn't have ANY interest in Anthem anymore????
> 
> 
> Now it sounds like there's a V2 coming out soon!!!
> 
> 
> Any chance they'll install a simple USB port (preferably in front) for firmware updates?
> 
> 
> Everytime I step away from this thread for a couple months, Anthem comes out with new stuff.



There's definitely no USB port in the D2 v.2 or AVM-50 v.2.


Give Anthem a call and see if they can help you with finding a dealer. If they've no longer got a dealer for your area, maybe they can offer some other means to get ARC hardware installed in your AVM-50 (e.g., installing it yourself). Keep in mind, if you have a D2 instead of an AVM-50, there's no hardware to install anyway. The ARC software install is definitely something you can do yourself and you are better off learning how to do the ARC measurements yourself anyway, so you don't need a dealer for either of those.


But it is still probably a good idea to find and get to know your new Anthem dealer since that's your best bet for getting info on the v.2 products and deciding the best way to go from what you have now to a v.2.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14824151
> 
> 
> I don't know if your panel is a 1080p or 768p panel, but we've had numerous reports that some of the Panasonic 768p panels require unusual video signal timings when you try to send them their "native" 768p resolution.



This is a 1080P panel. I have a similar (consumer) version of this panel that has been professionally calibrated (by Kevin Miller) and it did not need any particularly special adjustments either at the panel or the D2.


----------



## benleeys

From what I've observed in this thread, the main interest in the D2 has been its video capabilities. Now, the D2 is also a preamp and right now I am using it as an external DAC as well for my CD source.


From the few comments I've come across, I get the impression that it's D/A capabilities, despite its upsampling/oversampling features, is not quite as good as some of the better CD players. Reasonably priced DACs like the Benchmark and Aqvox are reported to be excellent, mainly on account of their precision reclocking features to achieve extremely low jitter, whatever the source. The undesirable factor with using such an external DAC with the D2 is that the analog output will have to pass thru another A/D-D/A process in the D2 in order to take advantage of the ARC


Perhaps I am wrong, but I would be really interested in hearing the opinion of my fellow users.


Also, does anyone know of any proposed improvement to the DAC section of the D2 v2?


Nowadays, media servers (PCs) seems quite common in use as a CD library. It would be nice if Anthem can provide a USB input for those who intend to use the D2 as an external DAC for such a source.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There has been nothing indicating the DACs will change in the D2 v.2.


Keep in mind that you can use ANALOG-DIRECT mode in the D2 if you are willing to forego any audio processing in the D2 (surround modes or ARC). Frankly I think the benefits of ARC far outweigh any tiny difference in DAC results.


I'll let others speak to the audio quality of the current DACs except to say that they've certainly exceeded my expectations.

--Bob


----------



## drdisc

This post is NOT about the D2 per se, but a Japanese-only CD manufacturing process called Super Heavy Material or SHM.


Maybe I should ask if anyone in this forum has played these through the D2 and how they sound to be more on topic?










Here's a brief blurb about them:


=====


SHM stands for “Super High Material” – It was developed by JVC and Universal Music for the Japanese market and can only be found there at this point.


On an SHM CD, the polycarbonate plastic surface is super-clean for added transparency on the data side… which makes it easier for the laser to read, this causes superior listening punch and quality. It’s the same material used for LCD panel monitors.


All SHMs are playable in a standard CD player.


=====


I am just wondering if there is a substantial and noticeable difference to the sound reproduction vs. regular CDs, SACDs, etc.


As far as I can tell there are currently around 200 CD titles available that were produced using the SHM process. But they are all Japanese in origin and therefore quite expensive!


Thanks,

Mark


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14825400
> 
> 
> There has been nothing indicating the DACs will change in the D2 v.2.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that you can use ANALOG-DIRECT mode in the D2 if you are willing to forego any audio processing in the D2 (surround modes or ARC). Frankly I think the benefits of ARC far outweigh any tiny difference in DAC results.
> 
> 
> I'll let others speak to the audio quality of the current DACs except to say that they've certainly exceeded my expectations.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for responding, Bob.


Yes, I am fully aware of the use of the Analog-Direct mode, but like I mentioned, it means bypassing the ARC feature too, which is a no no for me, as I'm now fully addicted to it.










One thing I ought to mention is that in using the D2 as an external DAC, I find that the sound quality is tends to differ from transport to transport. I am told, rightly or wrongly, that it's a jitter factor. Seems quite probable, because with the Benchmark, I can detect little or no difference with different transports. So perhaps, the D2 could do with an upgrade in its DAC section as well. Pity, if there's no intention to do so. It would certainly make the unit truely outstanding in both video and audio, even if I have to pay a bit more for the pleasure of owning it.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ben,

Have you explored raising the sampling frequency in the D2 for the A/D conversion of the 2-channel analog inputs? The factory default is 44.1KHz digitizing but it can be raised up to 96KHz.


See Section 3.9 of the Manual.


We've had some positive reports here from folks doing that for 2-channel analog input, as from high-end CD players. The 6-channel analog input already uses 96KHz digitizing by default.


-----------------------------------------------


Also double check the Analog Input levels you are using with different players. See Section 3.8 of the Manual.


Subtle differences in Analog output levels from the different players may be complicating what you are hearing when you have the D2 re-digitize that input.

--Bob


----------



## jlwine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14799288
> 
> 
> I was googling oppo blu-ray this morning and came upon an AVS thread that had started at cedia this year.
> 
> Apparently they had a non-functioning box on display of their blu-ray prototype, BDP-83. Does anyone here have any info on this model and how it would work with the D2?
> 
> Does it output in 480i standard dvd via hdmi?
> 
> Does it internally decode Dolby and DTS HD audio and output pcm via hdmi?
> 
> Does it play SACD, DVD-A, standard DVD video?
> 
> Release date?
> 
> Price?
> 
> I realize that until Oppo officially announces it, all that's available is conjecture and rumor, but I'd appreciate any reliable information available.
> 
> Tom




What is the advantage of a player that outputs 480i? Aren't the vast majority of DVDs encoded at 480p? What am I missing?


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drdisc* /forum/post/14825469
> 
> 
> I am just wondering if there is a substantial and noticeable difference to the sound reproduction vs. regular CDs, SACDs, etc.



I call BS on that, sorry, but there's nothing you can do to the disc itself to improve the quality of the content on it. It's a digital file, it's either read right or not.


Now XRCD, I could see having _some_ merit, but not because they did anything to the disc, from what I'd read about XRCD it was a process of mastering the CD, all the way from source to stamping. But even then, it's basically no different than "Superbit" DVDs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No. Standard DVDs are on disc as 480i.


For film based content, the two interlaced half frames making up each frame represent the same instant in time (i.e., the both come from a single frame of the film stock), so it is easy to put them back together for 480p. But the film frame rate has to be raised to the video frame rate for output and this is done by repeating pieces of the film at slightly varying rates. The pieces that are repeated are the interlaced half frames. Which means even though film stock is inherently "progressive", the video still has to get ripped apart and treated as interlaced.


For TV based content, the two interlaced half frames making up each frame represent slightly different points in time. They come together to make a slightly motion blurred double exposure. But the interlaced half frames don't need any repeat cadence.


Choose your poison.


This is further complicated by the fact that the color data on the disc has only half the vertical and horizontal color resolution of the gray scale data, which makes it tricky to decide which color to apply to each pixel as you are de-interlacing things -- particularly when you discover the best answer to this is different depending on whether the scene is film rate or video rate.


So either way, de-interlacing is a challenge.


It is even more of a challenge when you realize that many commercial discs actually have a mix of scenes done at film rate and video rate -- often with bad flags identifying all this stuff. This is due to using computer editing suites that massage the original film but at video rates. Which means modern de-interlacing relies on analyzing the stream of interlaced half-frames to try to figure out, after the fact, what is really going on so as to apply the best de-interlacing method. And "bad edits" often screw up the repeat cadence used to raise the film frame rate to video frame rate, and they too need to be detected and recovered from.


DVDs like the Joe Kane stuff that say they are 480p actually mean they are using video equipment like it was film equipment. Adjacent fields are from the same point in time.


The idea of using 480i output from the player is so that you can do the de-interlacing in an external processor that hopefully has more intelligence and does it better. Like the D2.

--Bob


----------



## jlwine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14826421
> 
> 
> No. Standard DVDs are on disc as 480i.
> 
> 
> For film based content, the two interlaced half frames making up each frame represent the same instant in time (i.e., the both come from a single frame of the film stock), so it is easy to put them back together for 480p. But the film frame rate has to be raised to the video frame rate for output and this is done by repeating pieces of the film at slightly varying rates. The pieces that are repeated are the interlaced half frames. Which means even though film stock is inherently "progressive", the video still has to get ripped apart and treated as interlaced.
> 
> 
> For TV based content, the two interlaced half frames making up each frame represent slightly different points in time. They come together to make a slightly motion blurred double exposure. But the interlaced half frames don't need any repeat cadence.
> 
> 
> Choose your poison.
> 
> 
> This is further complicated by the fact that the color data on the disc has only half the vertical and horizontal color resolution of the gray scale data, which makes it tricky to decide which color to apply to each pixel as you are de-interlacing things -- particularly when you discover the best answer to this is different depending on whether the scene is film rate or video rate.
> 
> 
> So either way, de-interlacing is a challenge.
> 
> 
> It is even more of a challenge when you realize that many commercial discs actually have a mix of scenes done at film rate and video rate -- often with bad flags identifying all this stuff. This is due to using computer editing suites that massage the original film but at video rates. Which means modern de-interlacing relies on analyzing the stream of interlaced half-frames to try to figure out, after the fact, what is really going on so as to apply the best de-interlacing method. And "bad edits" often screw up the repeat cadence used to raise the film frame rate to video frame rate, and they too need to be detected and recovered from.
> 
> 
> DVDs like the Joe Kane stuff that say they are 480p actually mean they are using video equipment like it was film equipment. Adjacent fields are from the same point in time.
> 
> 
> The idea of using 480i output from the player is so that you can do the de-interlacing in an external processor that hopefully has more intelligence and does it better. Like the D2.
> 
> --Bob



Thats very interesting. I had always read that DVD's were 480p.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlwine* /forum/post/14826633
> 
> 
> Thats very interesting. I had always read that DVD's were 480p.



Nope.


You need to think back. The DVD spec was created before any 480p TVs existed for the home market. Composite video and S-video are only 480i, as are the RF-modulated outputs (e.g., Channel 3).


The first "progressive" DVD players were godawful at de-interlacing the content off disc. So bad that most buyers ended up turning off the "progressive" feature since the results looked better on their CRT TVs with it turned off -- particularly when they used 480i S-video from the player to a TV that had that input but no Component inputs.


[However, those "progressive" players came with COMPONENT video outputs which made them look even better -- even when only used as older, traditional, non-progressive, 480i players when connected to the newest consumer TVs with Component video inputs.]


DVDs include flags which are supposed to make it EASY for "progressive" DVD players to de-interlace the content -- particularly for film content. The idea was that the "progressive" players could do a better job because they could depend on the flags -- flags which the TV never got to see. This was back before it was anywhere near practical to put the kind of processing power into a marketably priced DVD player to actually analyze the video stream and do de-interlacing based on the real content.


The problem was, and is, that bogus flags and bad edits mean that flag based de-interlacing was virtually guaranteed to produce very visible glitches. That's why it was better to turn that off and let de-interlacing "just happen" in the CRT TVs without regard to whether the original content was film or video based. And even if the flags and edits didn't get you, the poor implementation in the "progressive" players -- CUE problems being the most notable -- invariably did.


It's only relatively recently that the kind of processing power necessary to do de-interlacing by actually analyzing the real video stream has been available cheaply enough to include in players. More powerful processing systems like that are still the realm of advanced video processors like the D2.

--Bob


----------



## jlwine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14826687
> 
> 
> Nope.
> 
> 
> You need to think back. The DVD spec was created before any 480p TVs existed for the home market. Composite video and S-video are only 480i, as are the RF-modulated outputs (e.g., Channel 3).
> 
> --Bob



Yeah, it certainly makes sense when you think about it. Are you sure about S-Video? I thought you could send progressive scan over it.


In the addition to the OPPO some are talking about, do you know if most other Blu-Ray players offer 480i over HDMI?


----------



## Axatax




> Quote:
> I call BS on that, sorry, but there's nothing you can do to the disc itself to improve the quality of the content on it. It's a digital file, it's either read right or not.



Yes, it is digital data, however, CD audio is read differently (during real time playback) under the Red Book spec than a computer would read a data disc: In the case of a data CD-ROM, error correction ensures perfect data transfer. CD audio players do not have to employ any error correction (most don't), and dropouts ranging from imperceptible to total, can result. A computer or media server would eliminate this variable, which might actually be a non-issue in practice.


That said, I don't think this special plastic would make much of a difference.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlwine* /forum/post/14826744
> 
> 
> Yeah, it certainly makes sense when you think about it. Are you sure about S-Video? I thought you could send progressive scan over it.
> 
> 
> In the addition to the OPPO some are talking about, do you know if most other Blu-Ray players offer 480i over HDMI?



Nope. S-video is only 480i (or 576i in PAL markets). See the first paragraph of this Wikipedia entry:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S-video 


---------------------------------------------------


HDMI 480i is an odd beastie. The audio signal for HDMI is embedded in the blanking intervals of the video signal which means the available audio bandwidth is a function of the video bandwidth (resolution) currently being used.


And what you need for common audio is the bandwidth of a 480p signal.


So for this reason, and other technical reasons, HDMI 480i is implemented by doubling the pixels on each line for output (and stripping them away at the other end) to fake the higher bandwidth.


In addition there's a lack of standardization of how black levels are supposed to be handled for HDMI 480i. This all dates back to the DVI spec for computer monitors that later became HDMI with the addition of audio and copy protection, etc.


The upshot is that some manufacturers of HDMI chips punt the whole issue and just refuse to handle HDMI 480i.


So no, not all HDMI players will output HDMI 480i. For example the PS3 doesn't output HDMI 480i. Better players *SHOULD* output it, though, particularly for folks who want to use external video processors during SD-DVD playback.

--Bob


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14824203
> 
> 
> There's definitely no USB port in the D2 v.2 or AVM-50 v.2.
> 
> 
> Give Anthem a call and see if they can help you with finding a dealer. If they've no longer got a dealer for your area, maybe they can offer some other means to get ARC hardware installed in your AVM-50 (e.g., installing it yourself).
> 
> But it is still probably a good idea to find and get to know your new Anthem dealer since that's your best bet for getting info on the v.2 products and deciding the best way to go from what you have now to a v.2.
> 
> --Bob



My local dealer is still an Anthem dealer... on paper. When I went in asking about ARC, he said, "I haven't done anything with Anthem in a long time." Then when I asked about any plans in the future, he showed no interest at all.

They do carry a lot of high end gear, and they love Paradigm speakers. Oh well. I'll find something.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14810089
> 
> 
> As Tolstoi says, to re-install the ARC application, first uninstall it using Windows' Add/Remove Programs feature. Uninstalling it should still leave your pair of licensing and calibration files in place, so you should not need to manually copy them to the installation folder after you do the new install of ARC v1.2.5.
> 
> 
> That said, I doubt your problem is in the ARC application itself, but either in the AVM-50 or in your serial connection to the AVM-50.
> 
> 
> Since this setup has worked before for you for ARC, I think it would be a good idea for you to give Anthem tech support a call and let them work the problem with you. The Upload of ARC stuff should not just hang like that even if you are having serial connection problems. It would require the serial connection to slow way down without actually failing, which is unusual.
> 
> 
> As is often the case with Windows, sometimes just rebooting the machine is a way to cure odd system issues.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Nick got my upload problem fixed up. It was a matter of removing the old software and loading on the new. The only thing I really had to be aware of is relocating the serial files.


Thanks


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Axatax* /forum/post/14826784
> 
> 
> Yes, it is digital data, however, CD audio is read differently (during real time playback) under the Red Book spec than a computer would read a data disc: In the case of a data CD-ROM, error correction ensures perfect data transfer. CD audio players do not have to employ any error correction (most don't), and dropouts ranging from imperceptible to total, can result. A computer or media server would eliminate this variable, which might actually be a non-issue in practice.
> 
> 
> That said, I don't think this special plastic would make much of a difference.



Incorrect that CD-Audio discs don't use error correction - they do:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reed%E2...ror_correction 


For this reason, I'm skeptical of anything that 'improves' the readability of a disc having an audible effect unless the error correction is being overwhelmed *constantly*.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/14826875
> 
> 
> My local dealer is still an Anthem dealer... on paper. When I went in asking about ARC, he said, "I haven't done anything with Anthem in a long time." Then when I asked about any plans in the future, he showed no interest at all.
> 
> They do carry a lot of high end gear, and they love Paradigm speakers. Oh well. I'll find something.



Email Anthem about this. The only dealer with a showroom in the Seattle area stopped being an Anthem dealer last year. Nearest dealer showed as being in the next state (Oregon) - a three hour drive each way.


But Anthem let me know about 3 local custom installation dealers. They don't maintain showrooms, but can handle warranty and upgrade issues just fine.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14827436
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Nick got my upload problem fixed up. It was a matter of removing the old software and loading on the new. The only thing I really had to be aware of is relocating the serial files.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Great! Now if I can just convince Anthem to move this stuff to Mac computers so we don't have to futz with Windows issues....










--Bob


----------



## jlwine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14826871
> 
> 
> Nope. S-video is only 480i (or 576i in PAL markets). See the first paragraph of this Wikipedia entry:
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S-video
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> HDMI 480i is an odd beastie. The audio signal for HDMI is embedded in the blanking intervals of the video signal which means the available audio bandwidth is a function of the video bandwidth (resolution) currently being used.
> 
> 
> And what you need for common audio is the bandwidth of a 480p signal.
> 
> 
> So for this reason, and other technical reasons, HDMI 480i is implemented by doubling the pixels on each line for output (and stripping them away at the other end) to fake the higher bandwidth.
> 
> 
> In addition there's a lack of standardization of how black levels are supposed to be handled for HDMI 480i. This all dates back to the DVI spec for computer monitors that later became HDMI with the addition of audio and copy protection, etc.
> 
> 
> The upshot is that some manufacturers of HDMI chips punt the whole issue and just refuse to handle HDMI 480i.
> 
> 
> So no, not all HDMI players will output HDMI 480i. For example the PS3 doesn't output HDMI 480i. Better players *SHOULD* output it, though, particularly for folks who want to use external video processors during SD-DVD playback.
> 
> --Bob




Hey I have much more trust in you then wikipedia. Here is what they said about my first question that led me astray: "DVDs use 480i when high motion is desired, but for movies 24 progressive frames per second (480p) are used instead. The 480i resolution is used in most standard-definition TVs." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/480i .


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/14827530
> 
> 
> Email Anthem about this. The only dealer with a showroom in the Seattle area stopped being an Anthem dealer last year. Nearest dealer showed as being in the next state (Oregon) - a three hour drive each way.
> 
> 
> But Anthem let me know about 3 local custom installation dealers. They don't maintain showrooms, but can handle warranty and upgrade issues just fine.



Good suggestion! You can also lookup the custom installation dealers on-line at the Anthem site:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/D...ealerHome.html 


Just use the custom dealer part of the search page these buttons bring up.


-------------------------------------------


By the way, sometimes having your "local" dealer be across the state line is a good thing. If they ship the product to you, or meet you at the border to hand it to you, they often don't have to charge sales tax. If you don't actually need to go to the showroom to see the product, this can work out pretty well.

--Bob


----------



## aus

Thanks for the recommendations on the dealers!


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/14827842
> 
> 
> Thanks for the recommendations on the dealers!



Sent you with a pm, where a few of us have purchased our Anthem gear from, that is local to you.


Michael


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14828966
> 
> 
> Sent you with a pm, where a few of us have purchased our Anthem gear from, that is local to you.
> 
> 
> Michael



Just got it. Thanks Michael.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlwine* /forum/post/14827556
> 
> 
> Hey I have much more trust in you then wikipedia. Here is what they said about my first question that led me astray: "DVDs use 480i when high motion is desired, but for movies 24 progressive frames per second (480p) are used instead. The 480i resolution is used in most standard-definition TVs." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/480i .



Yeah, they've bungled that explanation.


Movies are recorded at 24 frames per second -- due to historical technical difficulties in figuring out how to make the film stock advance through the cameras and projectors without tearing. Video, recorded at 30 frames per second, is better at capturing motion. Film makers are well aware of the problems that the mere 24 fps film speed produces, and counter those problems by a variety of tricks -- such as blurring the focus of distant objects during pans. 24 fps also produces the perception of flicker which is countered in modern projectors by introducing a shutter mechanism that blinks the picture twice for each frame.


Each frame of film is, of course, a complete picture -- a "progressive" frame if you will. But that doesn't change the fact that it is actually on the DVD as 2 interlaced half-frames.


TV on the other hand has a different problem. The traditional TV image does not appear all at once. It is painted from top to bottom and that takes time. This too produces the perception of flicker. So instead TV is handled as two interlace half frames painted one on top of the other twice as fast. Why not simply paint the whole thing twice as fast -- a progressive frame? Because back when TV was invented that would have been too expensive -- TVs would cost too much to sell. In addition it would have required making the bandwidth allocation for each broadcast TV channel twice as wide -- fewer channels in a given market area.


The only real difference here is that the two interlaced half-frames from a movie are captured at the same instant in time while the two from a video camera are captured separated by a brief time interval.


But film presented on TV has a problem. 24 fps does not go cleanly into 30 fps. So what they do is repeat the individual half frames of the film in a specific cadence to "raise the frame rate" up to 30 fps. This means that some half frames are actually on screen a little longer than other half frames -- which is what produces "cadence judder". This process of raising film rate to video rate -- the telecine process -- has been going on since the dawn of TV. Well before the advent of DVDs. The point is, for it to work in a way that the eye can easily ignore the cadence judder you have to break up the film frames into interlaced half frames so that the transitions between the NEW video frames you produce via telecine is less jarring.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/14829001
> 
> 
> Just got it. Thanks Michael.



I will vouch for Michael's dealer. He referred me, and I was very happy and satisfied with the transaction and the dealers knowledge.


Just be aware of the fact that he may try to push you towards tubes!


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14829009
> 
> 
> Yeah, they've bungled that explanation.
> 
> 
> Movies are recorded at 24 frames per second -- due to historical technical difficulties in figuring out how to make the film stock advance through the cameras and projectors without tearing. Video, recorded at 30 frames per second, is better at capturing motion. Film makers are well aware of the problems that the mere 24 fps film speed produces, and counter those problems by a variety of tricks -- such as blurring the focus of distant objects during pans. 24 fps also produces the perception of flicker which is countered in modern projectors by introducing a shutter mechanism that blinks the picture twice for each frame.
> 
> 
> Each frame of film is, of course, a complete picture -- a "progressive" frame if you will. But that doesn't change the fact that it is actually on the DVD as 2 interlaced half-frames.
> 
> 
> TV on the other hand has a different problem. The traditional TV image does not appear all at once. It is painted from top to bottom and that takes time. This too produces the perception of flicker. So instead TV is handled as two interlace half frames painted one on top of the other twice as fast. Why not simply paint the whole thing twice as fast -- a progressive frame? Because back when TV was invented that would have been too expensive -- TVs would cost too much to sell. In addition it would have required making the bandwidth allocation for each broadcast TV channel twice as wide -- fewer channels in a given market area.
> 
> 
> The only real difference here is that the two interlaced half-frames from a movie are captured at the same instant in time while the two from a video camera are captured separated by a brief time interval.
> 
> 
> But film presented on TV has a problem. 24 fps does not go cleanly into 30 fps. So what they do is repeat the individual half frames of the film in a specific cadence to "raise the frame rate" up to 30 fps. This means that some half frames are actually on screen a little longer than other half frames -- which is what produces "cadence judder". This process of raising film rate to video rate -- the telecine process -- has been going on since the dawn of TV. Well before the advent of DVDs. The point is, for it to work in a way that the eye can easily ignore the cadence judder you have to break up the film frames into interlaced half frames so that the transitions between the NEW video frames you produce via telecine is less jarring.
> 
> --Bob



This post should be a sticky on some "Post hall of Fame" for explaining the differene between film and video and why there's a different frame rate.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14825888
> 
> 
> Ben,
> 
> Have you explored raising the sampling frequency in the D2 for the A/D conversion of the 2-channel analog inputs? The factory default is 44.1KHz digitizing but it can be raised up to 96KHz.
> 
> 
> See Section 3.9 of the Manual.
> 
> 
> We've had some positive reports here from folks doing that for 2-channel analog input, as from high-end CD players. The 6-channel analog input already uses 96KHz digitizing by default.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Also double check the Analog Input levels you are using with different players. See Section 3.8 of the Manual.
> 
> 
> Subtle differences in Analog output levels from the different players may be complicating what you are hearing when you have the D2 re-digitize that input.
> 
> --Bob



I use digital output from my transport unit into the D2, so this does not help (except for the matching input levels part which I've taken the trouble to ensure). You know, Bob, the difference is sound quality from the different transports is not subtle. For instance, the Denon 5910 will give me a very detailed and sweet high end through the D2, while the Pioneer 989 sounds stringent by comparison. Through the Benchmark DAC1, however, both simply sound real good with added punch to the bass as well and little or no difference between these 2 universal players which I use as CD transports.


I suppose it would make a difference if I were to set it to 96KHz when I wish to take advantage of the ARC while using the Benchmark DAC, but then I'll have to put up with another A/D-D/A process. Mmm... I must try it out and see how much of a compromise I'm in for.


Until now, I've always thought resetting the A/D setting to a higher sampling rate is meant only for benefit of the D2's digital recording output. Thanks for correcting my understanding of this feature.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14829938
> 
> 
> I suppose it would make a difference if I were to set it to 96KHz when I wish to take advantage of the ARC while using the Benchmark DAC, but then I'll have to put up with another A/D-D/A process. Mmm... I must try it out and see how much of a compromise I'm in for.
> 
> 
> Until now, I've always thought resetting the A/D setting to a higher sampling rate is meant only for benefit of the D2's digital recording output. Thanks for correcting my understanding of this feature.
> 
> 
> Ben



Right, this is exactly what I was suggesting. I don't know if this would make enough of a difference, but we've had a few good reports here indicating that upping the sampling frequency for digitizing stereo analog input did good things.


The question is whether what you are hearing is really due to the DACs in the D2 or rather due to the low rate digitizing that it uses by default.


Anyway, it certainly doesn't hurt to try it.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14829963
> 
> 
> The question is whether what you are hearing is really due to the DACs in the D2 or rather due to the low rate digitizing that it uses by default.
> 
> --Bob



Sorry, but not quite sure of what you mean here, Bob. How does the default digitizing rate affect the incoming digital signals from the 2 transports I am using? Are you suggesting I use analog inputs from them instead?


Ben


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/14829163
> 
> 
> This post should be a sticky on some "Post hall of Fame" for explaining the differene between film and video and why there's a different frame rate.



If you start hailing Bob for everything he writes in this forum than every other post will eventually be a "Praise the Bob!" post










(This guy is invaluable!







)


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14825375
> 
> 
> From what I've observed in this thread, the main interest in the D2 has been its video capabilities. Now, the D2 is also a preamp and right now I am using it as an external DAC as well for my CD source.
> 
> 
> From the few comments I've come across, I get the impression that it's D/A capabilities, despite its upsampling/oversampling features, is not quite as good as some of the better CD players. Reasonably priced DACs like the Benchmark and Aqvox are reported to be excellent, mainly on account of their precision reclocking features to achieve extremely low jitter, whatever the source. The undesirable factor with using such an external DAC with the D2 is that the analog output will have to pass thru another A/D-D/A process in the D2 in order to take advantage of the ARC
> 
> 
> Perhaps I am wrong, but I would be really interested in hearing the opinion of my fellow users.
> 
> 
> Also, does anyone know of any proposed improvement to the DAC section of the D2 v2?
> 
> 
> Nowadays, media servers (PCs) seems quite common in use as a CD library. It would be nice if Anthem can provide a USB input for those who intend to use the D2 as an external DAC for such a source.
> 
> 
> Ben




I am using a PC for playback of music sotred on a network in FLACs form trhough the HDMI connectiong using the HDMI connection. I am not sure the USB connection is a must.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14830181
> 
> 
> I am using a PC for playback of music sotred on a network in FLACs form trhough the HDMI connectiong using the HDMI connection. I am not sure the USB connection is a must.



Agree USB is not a must, but convenient to have if no network is used. Besides, compared to a good HDMI cable, it's a lot cheaper!










Ben


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14830566
> 
> 
> Agree USB is not a must, but convenient to have if no network is used. Besides, compared to a good HDMI cable, it's a lot cheaper!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



The problem I have with connecting a USB key or USB drive to a A/V devices is the user interface problem. On my Oppo 980H I there is a USB port where I could do just that. When there is only a few files it is fine but when you need to parse through hundreds or thousands of files it become quickly slow and painful. This is where having a full PC shine even if the files are store locally. You could have user interface that are really fast and user friendly one of then are even free (foobar).


----------



## eXcessive

Couple questions for Anthem owners, as mentioned I've been looking at the Anthem AV50 & MCA50 Amp


I'm running over budget and have thought of looking at different Amps. So I'm curious what are good matching amps for the Anthem processor?


My speakers are Energy's and they are a pretty warm sounding speaker definitely not bright and in your face.


My speakers are the following:


8 ohm nominal @ 150W Back L/R

8 ohm nominal @ 125W L/R

8 ohm nominal @ 250W Fronts

8 Ohm nominal @ 150W Center


Also if I do stick with the MCA50 I notice its 8 ohm output is only 170Watts for all channels so it won't drive my Fronts to there maximum just curious if thats a big issue?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eXcessive* /forum/post/14830976
> 
> 
> Couple questions for Anthem owners, as mentioned I've been looking at the Anthem AV50 & MCA50 Amp
> 
> 
> I'm running over budget and have thought of looking at different Amps. So I'm curious what are good matching amps for the Anthem processor?
> 
> 
> My speakers are Energy's and they are a pretty warm sounding speaker definitely not bright and in your face.
> 
> 
> My speakers are the following:
> 
> 
> 8 ohm nominal @ 150W Back L/R
> 
> 8 ohm nominal @ 125W L/R
> 
> 8 ohm nominal @ 250W Fronts
> 
> 8 Ohm nominal @ 150W Center
> 
> 
> Also if I do stick with the MCA50 I notice its 8 ohm output is only 170Watts for all channels so it won't drive my Fronts to there maximum just curious if thats a big issue?



I think the nice thing about any GOOD Pre/Pro is

they pair well with all Amps.


Of course not all Amps are Equal and not all Speakers

are equal.


Pairing the right AMP with the Right Speaker is what

you need to focus on.


The D2 or AVM50 will do its thing from there.


----------



## ripclawsa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14824151
> 
> 
> I don't know if your panel is a 1080p or 768p panel, but we've had numerous reports that some of the Panasonic 768p panels require unusual video signal timings when you try to send them their "native" 768p resolution.
> 
> 
> The D2 can do this by creating a Custom video output using the Live Video Settings Editor (a Windows application provided free by Anthem) and uploading that to the D2. The Custom resolution you create then becomes a resolution choice in the Setup > Video Output configuration menu.
> 
> 
> There's a link in the first post of this thread to a post documenting the Custom video output setup these folks have been using. Apparently this was derived from the custom timings folks found worked with other stand alone video processors.
> 
> 
> I don't know if all the Panasonic 768p panels require this for "native" video, but we've had many reports here that the Custom setup described in that post works just fine for a variety of Panasonic panels. I don't believe any 1080p panels require a special setup like this.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob


The panel I have is 1080p and has a 1:1 pixel mode that is engaged when it receives either a 720p / 1080i / 1080p signal, so there should be no problems with hooking up a D2 to it. Can you recommend any good HDMI to DVI cables?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14829991
> 
> 
> Sorry, but not quite sure of what you mean here, Bob. How does the default digitizing rate affect the incoming digital signals from the 2 transports I am using? Are you suggesting I use analog inputs from them instead?
> 
> 
> Ben



My mistake, I thought you were comparing analog output from the players when processed through the D2, as opposed to unprocessed ANALOG-Direct mode.

--Bob


----------



## jlwine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/14829163
> 
> 
> This post should be a sticky on some "Post hall of Fame" for explaining the differene between film and video and why there's a different frame rate.



i will second that motion!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ripclawsa* /forum/post/14831199
> 
> 
> Hi Bob
> 
> 
> The panel I have is 1080p and has a 1:1 pixel mode that is engaged when it receives either a 720p / 1080i / 1080p signal, so there should be no problems with hooking up a D2 to it. Can you recommend any good HDMI to DVI cables?



Personally I like the cables sold by Blue Jeans Cable. They are also an AVS Forum sponsor.


Their top end cables are properly inexpensive.


Note that they have two styles of top end cable -- one for normal interconnection between devices and another for longer runs as to a projector.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/14829163
> 
> 
> This post should be a sticky on some "Post hall of Fame" for explaining the differene between film and video and why there's a different frame rate.



Thanks for the kind words folks.


Keep in mind that lots of info like this can be found in the post links collected in the first post of this thread. See the Technology and Terminology links for example for some posts on frame rates and the telecine process.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14832625
> 
> 
> My mistake, I thought you were comparing analog output from the players when processed through the D2, as opposed to unprocessed ANALOG-Direct mode.
> 
> --Bob



Somehow never thought of the analog processed mode. Mental block somewhere.







Will try your suggestion and see how it goes. Thanks.


Back to the original question - Am quite convinced the D2's DAC could certainly do with an upgrade for processing digital inputs and hope Anthem will consider it sometime.


Ben


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14832658
> 
> 
> Personally I like the cables sold by Blue Jeans Cable. They are also an AVS Forum sponsor.
> 
> 
> Their top end cables are properly inexpensive.
> 
> 
> Note that they have two styles of top end cable -- one for normal interconnection between devices and another for longer runs as to a projector.
> 
> --Bob



2 weeks ago I sucessfull tested a set of 32 feet HDMI cables from them. It works flawlesly.


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I suppose this article is more intended to Bob as it concerns my DD-18 sub (and he's got the same sub).

Just to replace the story in its context you should know that I gave up on the principle of having 2 separate systems for stereo music and HT.

I followed your recommendations when you said that no matter what the overall quality of the system is, the added value provided by the ARC is incomparable to any other improvement.

So I did. I finally got rid of my high-end stereo pre-amp and now my D2 is the only pre-amp in my system.

I've been listening to my new system a lot in the last month and I gotta say that the things I lost by leaving the high-end "all clean" path for stereo have been seriously diminished by the tremendous gain I still sense by using the ARC.

But after this month, probing and testing my system, I just have the feeling that after all the sub is doing more damage than anything else to the music.

So I thought I should try to put it aside for music.

But how can i do that?

I mean I can do an ARC measurement for music using only my front speakers but how can I prevent the D2 from sending a signal to the sub?

And of course, what do you think of that idea?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14833753
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I suppose this article is more intended to Bob as it concerns my DD-18 sub (and he's got the same sub).
> 
> Just to replace the story in its context you should know that I gave up on the principle of having 2 separate systems for stereo music and HT.
> 
> I followed your recommendations when you said that no matter what the overall quality of the system is, the added value provided by the ARC is incomparable to any other improvement.
> 
> So I did. I finally got rid of my high-end stereo pre-amp and now my D2 is the only pre-amp in my system.
> 
> I've been listening to my new system a lot in the last month and I gotta say that the things I lost by leaving the high-end "all clean" path for stereo have been seriously diminished by the tremendous gain I still sense by using the ARC.
> 
> But after this month, probing and testing my system, I just have the feeling that after all the sub is doing more damage than anything else to the music.
> 
> So I thought I should try to put it aside for music.
> 
> But how can i do that?
> 
> I mean I can do an ARC measurement for music using only my front speakers but how can I prevent the D2 from sending a signal to the sub?
> 
> And of course, what do you think of that idea?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I run my Velodyne with the servo setting all the way up to 8 ("Musical") and would really miss it if I removed it from my music configuration.


Anyway, to answer your ARC question, what's supposed to happen is that you simply tell ARC (during Measurement) that your Music configuration has just the LF and RF speakers -- no sub, no center, and no surrounds -- and ARC takes it from there. The Music speaker configuration that it uploads has no subwoofer so no bass is steered to the subwoofer during playback.


HOWEVER, there is a bug in the V1.2.5 ARC software that causes it to screw up when you try a 2.0 configuration. The mistake is that it calculates the Room Correction results as if the front speakers had crossovers applied. Of course this makes no sense since there is no sub to cross over that bass to.


Anthem is aware of the bug, and presumably a fix will show up in a later ARC release. For now, however, you have to use a workaround (info from Anthem):


1) Measure ARC for the Music configuration using a 2.1 setup -- i.e., let ARC include the subwoofer in its Measurements. ARC will assign crossovers to the front speakers.


2) In the Target's window, alter the crossover Target for your front speakers (Music configuration) all the way down -- e.g. 25Hz.


3) Accept that change of Targets, do a Calculation and Upload the results


4) Go into Setup / Speaker Configuration / Music and, without changing anything else, specify that you actually want it to use NO subwoofer.


Don't forget to Save the results to User and/or Installer memories.

--Bob


----------



## Alembicjeff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14829009
> 
> 
> Yeah, they've bungled that explanation.
> 
> 
> Movies are recorded at 24 frames per second -- due to historical technical difficulties in figuring out how to make the film stock advance through the cameras and projectors without tearing. Video, recorded at 30 frames per second, is better at capturing motion. Film makers are well aware of the problems that the mere 24 fps film speed produces, and counter those problems by a variety of tricks -- such as blurring the focus of distant objects during pans. 24 fps also produces the perception of flicker which is countered in modern projectors by introducing a shutter mechanism that blinks the picture twice for each frame.
> 
> 
> Each frame of film is, of course, a complete picture -- a "progressive" frame if you will. But that doesn't change the fact that it is actually on the DVD as 2 interlaced half-frames.
> 
> 
> TV on the other hand has a different problem. The traditional TV image does not appear all at once. It is painted from top to bottom and that takes time. This too produces the perception of flicker. So instead TV is handled as two interlace half frames painted one on top of the other twice as fast. Why not simply paint the whole thing twice as fast -- a progressive frame? Because back when TV was invented that would have been too expensive -- TVs would cost too much to sell. In addition it would have required making the bandwidth allocation for each broadcast TV channel twice as wide -- fewer channels in a given market area.
> 
> 
> The only real difference here is that the two interlaced half-frames from a movie are captured at the same instant in time while the two from a video camera are captured separated by a brief time interval.
> 
> 
> But film presented on TV has a problem. 24 fps does not go cleanly into 30 fps. So what they do is repeat the individual half frames of the film in a specific cadence to "raise the frame rate" up to 30 fps. This means that some half frames are actually on screen a little longer than other half frames -- which is what produces "cadence judder". This process of raising film rate to video rate -- the telecine process -- has been going on since the dawn of TV. Well before the advent of DVDs. The point is, for it to work in a way that the eye can easily ignore the cadence judder you have to break up the film frames into interlaced half frames so that the transitions between the NEW video frames you produce via telecine is less jarring.
> 
> --Bob



You can always tell when someone truly understands the technical nuances of any given issue, because that person is able to explain, in an easy and understandable way, those technical issues so that anyone can understand what they are talking about. Bob is such a person.


Although I haven't posted that much, I have read many of Bob's posts and he is a true credit to Audiogon. Bob (and several others on this thread) have assisted me in making the upcoming D2v2 a top priority to audition for my next prepro.


Thanks.


Jeff.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14829938
> 
> 
> I use digital output from my transport unit into the D2, so this does not help (except for the matching input levels part which I've taken the trouble to ensure). You know, Bob, the difference is sound quality from the different transports is not subtle. For instance, the Denon 5910 will give me a very detailed and sweet high end through the D2, while the Pioneer 989 sounds stringent by comparison. Through the Benchmark DAC1, however, both simply sound real good with added punch to the bass as well and little or no difference between these 2 universal players which I use as CD transports.
> 
> Ben



Here is a thought I have on your statement above but I do not have two high end digital transports to check it out. I do have a Sony XA777ES and a

OPPO 983H to play SACD. SACD from either sounds better through the D2 than my Theta Casablanca with Extreme DAC. And the OPPO HDMI sounds better than analog out and does sound better than the Sony.


Maybe what you hear from the D2 is the true sound of each of the digital transports. And what you hear after passing them through the DAC is the result of coloration of the sound by the DAC.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/14835375
> 
> 
> ..... Maybe what you hear from the D2 is the true sound of each of the digital transports. And what you hear after passing them through the DAC is the result of coloration of the sound by the DAC.



That's what I thought, until I came across comments from Robert E Green writing in the Aug 08 issue of the TAS. Normally I tend to take these writers' comments with a pinch of salt, but my ears tell me different in this instance. If it is indeed coloration, I must say I like it.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14837191
> 
> 
> That's what I thought, until I came across comments from Robert E Green writing in the Aug 08 issue of the TAS. Normally I tend to take these writers' comments with a pinch of salt, but my ears tell me different in this instance. If it is indeed coloration, I must say I like it.



Please don't take my comments as negative. I did not mean "coloration" as negative only the result of the DAC processing.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14833969
> 
> 
> I run my Velodyne with the servo setting all the way up to 8 ("Musical") and would really miss it if I removed it from my music configuration.
> 
> 
> Anyway, to answer your ARC question, what's supposed to happen is that you simply tell ARC (during Measurement) that your Music configuration has just the LF and RF speakers -- no sub, no center, and no surrounds -- and ARC takes it from there. The Music speaker configuration that it uploads has no subwoofer so no bass is steered to the subwoofer during playback.
> 
> 
> HOWEVER, there is a bug in the V1.2.5 ARC software that causes it to screw up when you try a 2.0 configuration. The mistake is that it calculates the Room Correction results as if the front speakers had crossovers applied. Of course this makes no sense since there is no sub to cross over that bass to.
> 
> 
> Anthem is aware of the bug, and presumably a fix will show up in a later ARC release. For now, however, you have to use a workaround (info from Anthem):
> 
> 
> 1) Measure ARC for the Music configuration using a 2.1 setup -- i.e., let ARC include the subwoofer in its Measurements. ARC will assign crossovers to the front speakers.
> 
> 
> 2) In the Target's window, alter the crossover Target for your front speakers (Music configuration) all the way down -- e.g. 25Hz.
> 
> 
> 3) Accept that change of Targets, do a Calculation and Upload the results
> 
> 
> 4) Go into Setup / Speaker Configuration / Music and, without changing anything else, specify that you actually want it to use NO subwoofer.
> 
> 
> Don't forget to Save the results to User and/or Installer memories.
> 
> --Bob




Thank you. As always, very instructive.

Might I ask which front speakers do you have and what power amp do you use to drive them? And also what kind of music do you listen to?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sorry, but I don't talk about my speakers and amps. That's just me.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14839055
> 
> 
> Sorry, but I don't talk about my speakers and amps. That's just me.
> 
> --Bob



Wow! I knew Bob was a diplomat but now he has let his secret out how he does it.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/14837310
> 
> 
> Please don't take my comments as negative. I did not mean "coloration" as negative only the result of the DAC processing.



Please see my pm.

Ben


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14839055
> 
> 
> Sorry, but I don't talk about my speakers and amps. That's just me.
> 
> --Bob



Actually, I hesitated before asking. I knew you'd answer so. And I respect that. Sorry to intrude.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14833378
> 
> 
> Back to the original question - Am quite convinced the D2's DAC could certainly do with an upgrade for processing digital inputs and hope Anthem will consider it sometime.
> 
> 
> Ben



The dacs in the Anthem may not be THE latest but they are of fairly recent vintage. The dac chip alone is not the only determinant of sound quality, the analog circuitry is very important, power supply etc....


When you put your transport into the Benchmark, where does it go from there? i.e. does it then go into an analog input in the Anthem?


I've got an Esoteric P70/D70 combo. I've done a lot of transport comparisons and agree that the transport does make a difference (theoretically it shouldn't according to the "objective" people). I didn't find a lot to criticize with the D2 as a dac/preamp, but I do use a different preamp as my stereo preamp while the D2 is for my ht.


I haven't heard the Benchmark unit, but rumour has it that it's decent.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14841183
> 
> 
> Actually, I hesitated before asking. I knew you'd answer so. And I respect that. Sorry to intrude.



No problem! And certainly no offense taken.


It's just that I've been on AVS long enough to learn that there is no such thing as a rational conversation about speaker and amp preferences...










--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14842988
> 
> 
> No problem! And certainly no offense taken.
> 
> 
> It's just that I've been on AVS long enough to learn that there is no such thing as a rational conversation about speaker and amp preferences...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



This is why you can get your M&M's with peanuts, plain and with almonds, something for everyone.


Michael


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14842881
> 
> 
> When you put your transport into the Benchmark, where does it go from there? i.e. does it then go into an analog input in the Anthem?



Analog into the D2 in bypass mode.

For fair comparison with the D2's DAC, ARC was also turned off.



> Quote:
> I've got an Esoteric P70/D70 combo. I've done a lot of transport comparisons and agree that the transport does make a difference (theoretically it shouldn't according to the "objective" people). I didn't find a lot to criticize with the D2 as a dac/preamp, but I do use a different preamp as my stereo preamp while the D2 is for my ht.



Your Esoteric is one great player, more so when combined with the G-ORb Rubidium Master Clock Generator for absolute timing accuracy.


With the Benchmark, the sound wasn't all that different with a change in transport.



> Quote:
> I haven't heard the Benchmark unit, but rumour has it that it's decent.



I had it on loan for a while and had a great time with it. Almost refused to return it, but missed the benefit of the D2's ARC feature.










Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14843984
> 
> 
> Analog into the D2 in bypass mode.
> 
> For fair comparison with the D2's DAC, ARC was also turned off.



Just a note that there's no need to turn ARC OFF (Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ) for ANALOG-Direct sources.


ARC operates in the digital domain so it doesn't do anything to ANALOG-Direct sources anyway since they are never digitized.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14845854
> 
> 
> Just a note that there's no need to turn ARC OFF (Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ) for ANALOG-Direct sources.
> 
> 
> ARC operates in the digital domain so it doesn't do anything to ANALOG-Direct sources anyway since they are never digitized.
> 
> --Bob



What I meant, Bob, was that ARC was set to OFF when the D2 was used as a DAC to compare with the Benchmark DAC1.

Humble apologies for my oriental english.










Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ah! I keep getting confused whether we are talking about the digital or the analog input.










Keep in mind that when you turn Room EQ OFF for a Digital audio source or for an ANALOG-DSP source, you may not be getting quite what you think you are getting.


For example, the crossovers and speaker volume trim levels that ARC has Uploaded remain in effect. Those don't revert to whatever settings you were using prior to setting up ARC.


In addition, things like the Center speaker EQ function, the Room Resonance Filter, and the THX Ultra2 Subwoofer with Boundary Gain Compensation all come into effect if you happen to have left them turned on. While ARC is active, those settings are ignored. And your non-ARC "best" settings for those may no longer jibe with the crossovers ARC has Uploaded. In addition, if you have been using something other than the 1 Subwoofer setting for non-ARC stuff you need to restore that as well.


So you need to make sure you have restored your best NON-ARC set of settings for all of those to get the best results with Room EQ turned OFF temporarily for non-ARC testing.


The bottom line is that doing non-ARC testing of audio quality is not as simple as just turning Room EQ OFF.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14851653
> 
> 
> Ah! I keep getting confused whether we are talking about the digital or the analog input.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that when you turn Room EQ OFF for a Digital audio source or for an ANALOG-DSP source, you may not be getting quite what you think you are getting.
> 
> 
> ......... The bottom line is that doing non-ARC testing of audio quality is not as simple as just turning Room EQ OFF.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks for the reminder, Bob. Sometimes I get confused too by so many variables.


One quick question - when the connection is an Analog-Direct one, do the D2's individual speaker level settings still function, or does one have to set them at the source/external DAC end? For 2-ch analog, I suppose this question would be irrelevant if the output level of both fronts are even.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14853973
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reminder, Bob. Sometimes I get confused too by so many variables.
> 
> 
> One quick question - when the connection is an Analog-Direct one, do the D2's individual speaker level settings still function, or does one have to set them at the source/external DAC end? For 2-ch analog, I suppose this question would be irrelevant if the output level of both fronts are even.
> 
> 
> Ben



My understanding is that the speaker volume trim settings still apply with Analog-Direct sources, and possibly the Analog input level trims as well, and that's it. But I don't use any Analog-Direct sources myself so I'm not sure about this. The manual only says that the Anthem "adjusts levels" for Direct sources without going into further details as to whether that just mean the main volume knob or not.


To test this, you'd have to temporarily adjust a speaker trim or an input level by a significant amount while measuring the SPL.


I don't believe the Bass/Treble controls apply for example. And certainly not the crossovers, filters, surround modes, or ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan

This problem just cropped up with my D2. about 3 days ago I was watching direcTV then switched to analog direct to listen to a CD on my CD player connected to the D2. After few songs I switched back to DirecTV and there was static fuzz. I switched to a different source and then back again. Still static fuzz. After going back in forth and the problem staying the same I switched off the D2, and rebooted everything including the DirecTV HD DVR Hr20. I pulled the power plugs from both the DVR and D2. And reseated the HDMI cable from the DirecTV to D2. It then worked. This problem had never happened before and I have had this set up since Feb. Yesterday I turned on the HDTV with a unified remote(it turned on the DirecTV DVR at the same time) to watch NFL football.

Again the static Fuzz was on the TV. I just rebooted the D2 this time. It didn't help. still static Fizz. When I rebooted both the DVR and D2 by pulling the power plugs it then worked.

I know DirecTv did some kind of funky firmware upgrade this past week. Is it possible it effected the HDMI handshake? Could it be any other problem? After I did the reboot last night I was able to switch between Cable and DirecTv both with no problem.( I have both a TWC and DirecTV DVR hooked up to my D2). The grainy static Fuzz problem did not come back. Anybody else see this problem before. It concerns me as it has happened twice in a short period of time.

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/14855404
> 
> 
> This problem just cropped up with my D2. about 3 days ago I was watching direcTV then switched to analog direct to listen to a CD on my CD player connected to the D2. After few songs I switched back to DirecTV and there was static fuzz. I switched to a different source and then back again. Still static fuzz. After going back in forth and the problem staying the same I switched off the D2, and rebooted everything including the DirecTV HD DVR Hr20. I pulled the power plugs from both the DVR and D2. And reseated the HDMI cable from the DirecTV to D2. It then worked. This problem had never happened before and I have had this set up since Feb. Yesterday I turned on the HDTV with a unified remote(it turned on the DirecTV DVR at the same time) to watch NFL football.
> 
> Again the static Fuzz was on the TV. I just rebooted the D2 this time. It didn't help. still static Fizz. When I rebooted both the DVR and D2 by pulling the power plugs it then worked.
> 
> I know DirecTv did some kind of funky firmware upgrade this past week. Is it possible it effected the HDMI handshake? Could it be any other problem? After I did the reboot last night I was able to switch between Cable and DirecTv both with no problem.( I have both a TWC and DirecTV DVR hooked up to my D2). The grainy static Fuzz problem did not come back. Anybody else see this problem before. It concerns me as it has happened twice in a short period of time.
> 
> Thanks.



I think the odds are good that DirecTV has pushed a faulty software upgrade to your receiver that is screwing up its HDMI output.


At a guess, the DirecTV is getting unhappy when its HDMI output is not connected to an active HDMI input (as when you switch to a different input in the D2 or are just powering things up).


If it happens again try JUST rebooting the DirecTV box. If that fixes the problem, give DirecTV a call. They may be able to force a new download of software to your box.


Also check the HD set top box forum here for posts related to this latest DirecTV software.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14855455
> 
> 
> I think the odds are good that DirecTV has pushed a faulty software upgrade to your receiver that is screwing up its HDMI output.
> 
> 
> At a guess, the DirecTV is getting unhappy when its HDMI output is not connected to an active HDMI input (as when you switch to a different input in the D2 or are just powering things up).
> 
> 
> If it happens again try JUST rebooting the DirecTV box. If that fixes the problem, give DirecTV a call. They may be able to force a new download of software to your box.
> 
> 
> Also check the HD set top box forum here for posts related to this latest DirecTV software.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. It's always something.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14855124
> 
> 
> My understanding is that the speaker volume trim settings still apply with Analog-Direct sources, and possibly the Analog input level trims as well, and that's it. ....... To test this, you'd have to temporarily adjust a speaker trim or an input level by a significant amount while measuring the SPL.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. More fiddling around ... oh how I hate it!


----------



## AnthemAVM

Any word on when Anthem is going to give us a 1.2.6 or higher ARC software?


Michael


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14855785
> 
> 
> Any word on when Anthem is going to give us a 1.2.6 or higher ARC software?
> 
> 
> Michael



Nothing new to report. My guess is that we will see it around the time the D2 v.2 ships. It is likely they will want to have a new version out at that point that has been tested with both types of DSP hardware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/14855493
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. It's always something.



Comcast just foisted new Motorola HD-DVR software on me last night that also appears to make the HDMI re-handshake on output resolution changes less reliable. I've now got some cases where it never locks in no matter how long you wait. Repeated static-like flashes and green flashes.


But in my case at least, you can workaround by switching the Anthem to a different input and back.


[For newbies: The HDMI handshake is driven by the source device. The Anthem can cause a retry if things get screwed up but there's only so much any AVR or pre-pro can do if the source's HDMI implementation is faulty.]

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14856069
> 
> 
> Comcast just foisted new Motorola HD-DVR software on me last night that also appears to make the HDMI re-handshake on output resolution changes less reliable. I've now got some cases where it never locks in no matter how long you wait. Repeated static-like flashes and green flashes.
> 
> 
> But in my case at least, you can workaround by switching the Anthem to a different input and back.
> 
> 
> [For newbies: The HDMI handshake is driven by the source device. The Anthem can cause a retry if things get screwed up but there's only so much any AVR or pre-pro can do if the source's HDMI implementation is faulty.]
> 
> --Bob



I have had a similar issue with my Tivo S-3, where the D2's processor locks up when I use "native" output and switch from an HD source to a SD source (switching the Anthem's input back and forth cures the problem o nthe Tivo also). The ultimate fix for me was to switch my Tivo to fixed 1080i output, which cured the problem completely.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14857383
> 
> 
> I have had a similar issue with my Tivo S-3, where the D2's processor locks up when I use "native" output and switch from an HD source to a SD source (switching the Anthem's input back and forth cures the problem o nthe Tivo also). The ultimate fix for me was to switch my Tivo to fixed 1080i output, which cured the problem completely.



That's most likely an Anthem problem, as this works fine for me for the last two HDMI AVRs I've owned. Hopefully the D2v2 fixes this...


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14857443
> 
> 
> That's most likely an Anthem problem, as this works fine for me for the last two HDMI AVRs I've owned. Hopefully the D2v2 fixes this...



I think based on discussions on Tivo sites, it is a pretty common Tivo problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's probably something like:


1) Tivo is using incorrect timing waiting for the AVR to respond to a change. The timing they are using works for some AVRs but not for others, or


2) Tivo is sensitive to the number of options the AVR returns when it gets queried about what it can accept. Some AVRs accept more audio/video combos than others.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14857510
> 
> 
> I think based on discussions on Tivo sites, it is a pretty common Tivo problem.



I don't think so, as I'm on all those Tivo sites. I've only seen a couple verified AVR problems (with firmware upgrades to fix them).


The Tivo S3 and Tivo HD have been just as flawless direct to my TV, through an Onkyo 905, and through my previous Denon.


Again, everything I've seen to date with HDMI issues, beyond the Tivo, has nearly always been issues with the AVR's doing non-standard EDID (or bad cables/connectors).


Presumably the 1.3c with the D2v2 will make this a non-issue, since there's little room for interpretation of the spec with 1.3b/c.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14857861
> 
> 
> I don't think so, as I'm on all those Tivo sites. I've only seen a couple verified AVR problems (with firmware upgrades to fix them).
> 
> 
> The Tivo S3 and Tivo HD have been just as flawless direct to my TV, through an Onkyo 905, and through my previous Denon.
> 
> 
> Again, everything I've seen to date with HDMI issues, beyond the Tivo, has nearly always been issues with the AVR's doing non-standard EDID (or bad cables/connectors).
> 
> 
> Presumably the 1.3c with the D2v2 will make this a non-issue, since there's little room for interpretation of the spec with 1.3b/c.



I guess anything is possible. However, I think that the Tivo has had lots of similar issues unrelated to the D2 and in my case worked great until after a Tivo firmware upgrade.

http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb...04#post6284404


----------



## Axatax

The Crystalio II (also based on the same Gennum part) had similar problems with the S3 'native' mode after a particular software update. It was addressed in the last CII firmware dump.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem has a long overdue upgrade to its own HDMI software that has probably been set aside until the D2 v.2 ships. The test releases over the summer still needed a lot of work. But one thing it did well was handling source devices that needed to do frequent new handshakes due to output resolution changes. I suspect the new Anthem code was keeping track of what the source had recently been using to speed up the handshake switching between common settings.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14858147
> 
> 
> Anthem has a long overdue upgrade to its own HDMI software that has probably been set aside until the D2 v.2 ships. The test releases over the summer still needed a lot of work. But one thing it did well was handling source devices that needed to do frequent new handshakes due to output resolution changes. I suspect the new Anthem code was keeping track of what the source had recently been using to speed up the handshake switching between common settings.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Do you know if the new Anthem firmware will fix the 'Oppo screech' or is that an Oppo issue?

I upgraded the firmware for my 980h a few weeks ago and that didn't fix it.

Tom


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14858261
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Do you know if the new Anthem firmware will fix the 'Oppo screech' or is that an Oppo issue?
> 
> I upgraded the firmware for my 980h a few weeks ago and that didn't fix it.
> 
> Tom



I must have missed that one but I ran a 983 with the D2 for many weeks. Can you describe the 'Oppo screech?'


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/14858368
> 
> 
> I must have missed that one but I ran a 983 with the D2 for many weeks. Can you describe the 'Oppo screech?'



To be honest, I'm not sure if I'm experiencing the true, official 'oppo screech'.

What I experince is an occaisional, brief, loud buzzing, often accompanied by a momentary blue screen, which both stop when the video is relocked. It only happens on some dvd's, mostly older ones, when the dvd swithes from video based to film based content. It will happen , for example, when changing from the FBI warning to the dvd main menu and then from the menu to the movie.

Let me make it perfectly clear, this happens rarely. But when it happens it can be a very annoying sound.

I don't know if the problem is originating in the Oppo 980h during internal switching,or during the Oppo/D2 hdmi handshake.

Since it doesn't happen often I am willing to put up with it because of all of the Oppo's many positive attributes. But I would appreciate knowing if it's an Oppo problem or a D2 problem, and if there is a fix for it.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14859252
> 
> 
> To be honest, I'm not sure if I'm experiencing the true, official 'oppo screech'.
> 
> What I experince is an occaisional, brief, loud buzzing, often accompanied by a momentary blue screen, which both stop when the video is relocked. It only happens on some dvd's, mostly older ones, when the dvd swithes from video based to film based content. It will happen , for example, when changing from the FBI warning to the dvd main menu and then from the menu to the movie.
> 
> Let me make it perfectly clear, this happens rarely. But when it happens it can be a very annoying sound.
> 
> I don't know if the problem is originating in the Oppo 980h during internal switching,or during the Oppo/D2 hdmi handshake.
> 
> Since it doesn't happen often I am willing to put up with it because of all of the Oppo's many positive attributes. But I would appreciate knowing if it's an Oppo problem or a D2 problem, and if there is a fix for it.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



Interesting. I cannot help as I have not had such an experience.


Kal


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've not heard anything on this Oppo issue, but I know that Nick and crew at Anthem have a good working relationship with Oppo. I suggest you send Nick an email with the details and see what he knows about it.


If you are having the problem on only some discs, and if those are older, much used discs, the problem may be that the Oppo is having to do a recovery at some point (dirty disc or whatever) and is failing to mute its HDMI output properly.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

I am returning my Oppo 980. Doesn't look like the 5.0 SACD issue is going to get solved anytime soon.


----------



## dweltman

Why can't I listen to analog source direct with 5 channel input and watch an HDMI source on my TV at the same time?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14859826
> 
> 
> Why can't I listen to analog source direct with 5 channel input and watch an HDMI source on my TV at the same time?



It works for me: 5.1 channel ANALOG-DIRECT from my DVD player simultaneous with HDMI video from my Comcast cable TV box.


You set it up in the 6-CH input of Setup > Source Setup.


Alternatively, you can do it via Simulcast. (See Section 4.4.2 in the manual.)


Are you saying you tried this and it isn't working for you? Are you on the V1.33 firmware?

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/14857510
> 
> 
> I think based on discussions on Tivo sites, it is a pretty common Tivo problem.



Yes, Tivo-HD here, and this started happening two or three weeks back, just at the time of a software update.


It happens a lot when I switch to Now Playing - all of a sudden the screen turns to snow. I switch to another input and back and all is good.


Ever since the software update there are also a LOT more blue screen flashes when switching. I'm not sure what the software "update" was for but it certainly wasn't for more robust HDMI handling!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14856033
> 
> 
> Nothing new to report. My guess is that we will see it around the time the D2 v.2 ships. It is likely they will want to have a new version out at that point that has been tested with both types of DSP hardware.
> 
> --Bob



Bob is right, they are focusing on the D2V2 right now.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14859252
> 
> 
> To be honest, I'm not sure if I'm experiencing the true, official 'oppo screech'.
> 
> What I experince is an occaisional, brief, loud buzzing, often accompanied by a momentary blue screen, which both stop when the video is relocked. It only happens on some dvd's, mostly older ones, when the dvd swithes from video based to film based content. It will happen , for example, when changing from the FBI warning to the dvd main menu and then from the menu to the movie.
> 
> Let me make it perfectly clear, this happens rarely. But when it happens it can be a very annoying sound.
> 
> I don't know if the problem is originating in the Oppo 980h during internal switching,or during the Oppo/D2 hdmi handshake.
> 
> Since it doesn't happen often I am willing to put up with it because of all of the Oppo's many positive attributes. But I would appreciate knowing if it's an Oppo problem or a D2 problem, and if there is a fix for it.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



I have the Oppo 980h and did not experience this type of issues.


----------



## kmr_269




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14859252
> 
> 
> To be honest, I'm not sure if I'm experiencing the true, official 'oppo screech'.
> 
> What I experince is an occaisional, brief, loud buzzing, often accompanied by a momentary blue screen, which both stop when the video is relocked. It only happens on some dvd's, mostly older ones, when the dvd swithes from video based to film based content. It will happen , for example, when changing from the FBI warning to the dvd main menu and then from the menu to the movie.
> 
> Let me make it perfectly clear, this happens rarely. But when it happens it can be a very annoying sound.
> 
> I don't know if the problem is originating in the Oppo 980h during internal switching,or during the Oppo/D2 hdmi handshake.
> 
> Since it doesn't happen often I am willing to put up with it because of all of the Oppo's many positive attributes. But I would appreciate knowing if it's an Oppo problem or a D2 problem, and if there is a fix for it.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom




Tom,


Yes, I have experienced the screech too. I have an AVM50 and an OPPO 970HD. (Both with the latest firmwares.) It appears to be very random but I have noticed that it happens more when the AVM50 has been on and then I turn on the OPPO and start the movie. The few times I have been able to debug it I have noticed that restarting the OPPO does not stop the screech, I need to leave the OPPO on and power off/on the AVM50, sometimes more than once. (I am playing mostly Disney movies on the OPPO and my daughter will not let me "interrupt" her movie for too long to try other things out







) Another thing I have noticed is the screech starts when I see the display on the AVM switch to LPCM during negotiation. Could the HDMI negotiation be corrupting and it requires several "kicks" to get it to reset and start a fresh sync?


Thanks

Keith


----------



## obie_fl

I've experienced the Oppo 970HD screech but it has been a while... maybe because I have been watching mostly BDs and HD DVDs lately.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Looking at a Blu-ray for my D2. Between the Panny DMP55 or the new Pioneer 05 or 51 several members said they thought the Pioneer Blu-ray player was a better choice because of source direct on the Pioneer Blu-ray allows better use of the Video Processor in the D2. Is that the Blu-ray player most of you would recommend? I don't want a PS3. I'm looking for a stand alone player.

I like that the Pan DMP55 does DTS-Ma internally which at this point the Pioneer does not.(at least till January)

Has anybody on here bought either of these Blu-ray players? Opinions!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I got a few more tidbits from Nick at Anthem on the v.2 products. None of the big answers (when and how much) but still useful stuff:


1) No changes for Component video. In particular the DACs do not change for Component output, and Component 1080p/60 in or out remains available only as unprocessed "pass through".


2) No changes in the DACs for Audio output. However, I found out that the DACs in the AVM-50 are already capable of 192KHz. It's just that the AVM-50 doesn't upsample audio input and up to now there's been no way to get 192KHz into the AVM-50. So *BOTH* the AVM-50 v.2 and the D2 v.2 will in fact be able to accept 7.1 channel 24 bit / 192KHz audio input. ARC will process at up to 192KHz, and the DACs for both products will output from 192 KHz. The difference is that the D2 v.2 (like the current D2 product) upsamples all input to 192KHz prior to processing whereas the AVM-50 v.2 (like the current AVM-50 product) maintains the input rate through to the output DACs without upsampling.

--Bob


----------



## mr_fitz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/14862130
> 
> 
> i've experienced the oppo 970hd screech but it has been a while... Maybe because i have been watching mostly bds and hd dvds lately.



+1


----------



## Fischer

Hi !

I wonder if someone have tryed Anthem D2 with M&K, and how they work together?


I have the aktive S-150 system with aktive tripol surronds speakers and are looking for a upgrade to my Intergra Research RDC 7.1


----------



## funlvr1965

I can answer that, I had the S-150P with these and they sounded fantastic period. I only upgraded recently to Mark Seatons Catalyst self powered speakers to get bigger soundstage and midrange but do not be afraid of this combo its great, if you click on my link you will see my setup in Electronic House featuring the S-150P and at that time and still now I have the D2


----------



## cybernut2000

I was wondering the following about Anthem D2 or D2 V.2


1. Does it support 1080p/24? My Blu-ray player and TV support it.

2. Can you disable video processing per input?

3. Does it video process HDMI? a lot of them don't

4. Does it video process everything-composite, component and HDMI?

5. Does it support XM?

6. Does it support computer connected via DVI-HDMI or HDMI?

7. Is Arc-1 better than or equal to Audyessy?

8. Is the V2 THX Ultra2 Plus or just Ultra2


I would be profoundly grateful if anyone could answer these questions for me. i know they are a lot. I have been searching extensively and found no answers.


I was going to originally go with an integra 9.9 + Rotel amps but then a board member mentioned that the V2 is coming out.


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/14865641
> 
> 
> Looking at a Blu-ray for my D2. Between the Panny DMP55 or the new Pioneer 05 or 51 several members said they thought the Pioneer Blu-ray player was a better choice because of source direct on the Pioneer Blu-ray allows better use of the Video Processor in the D2. Is that the Blu-ray player most of you would recommend? I don't want a PS3. I'm looking for a stand alone player.




Bigmoviefan, sent you a PM on the Pioneer player.


----------



## cybernut2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/14651598
> 
> 
> The sole dealer in Seattle (and I think the entire state of Washington) has quit being a dealer. So my closest dealer now is in a different state (Oregon). Thankfully I don't need a demo, but I have no more dealer support...




Did you try Definitive Audio in Bellevue? They are anthem dealers and i'm getting my stuff from them. You might also want to try Home Technolgies, Inc in Bellevue as well.


edited 1.23pm, 10/15/2008:

I spoke to my rep at Definitive and he told me they are no longer an official dealer but they can get you the product. Home Technologies is listed as a custom dealer.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cybernut2000* /forum/post/14872016
> 
> 
> Did you try Definitive Audio in Bellevue? They are anthem dealers and i'm getting my stuff from them. You might also want to try Home Technolgies, Inc in Bellevue as well.
> 
> 
> edited 1.23pm, 10/15/2008:
> 
> I spoke to my rep at Definitive and he told me they are no longer an official dealer but they can get you the product. Home Technologies is listed as a custom dealer.



Yes, I wrote that Definitive is no longer a dealer as of this spring. There are three custom dealers (don't have showrooms) in Seattle/Eastside who can provide repair and support. I will probably use one of them to do the v2 upgrade.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cybernut2000* /forum/post/14871834
> 
> 
> I was wondering the following about Anthem D2 or D2 V.2
> 
> 
> 1. Does it support 1080p/24? My Blu-ray player and TV support it.
> 
> 2. Can you disable video processing per input?
> 
> 3. Does it video process HDMI? a lot of them don't
> 
> 4. Does it video process everything-composite, component and HDMI?
> 
> 5. Does it support XM?
> 
> 6. Does it support computer connected via DVI-HDMI or HDMI?
> 
> 7. Is Arc-1 better than or equal to Audyessy?
> 
> 8. Is the V2 THX Ultra2 Plus or just Ultra2
> 
> 
> I would be profoundly grateful if anyone could answer these questions for me. i know they are a lot. I have been searching extensively and found no answers.
> 
> 
> I was going to originally go with an integra 9.9 + Rotel amps but then a board member mentioned that the V2 is coming out.



1. Yes

2. No. All of the video inputs will be processed. But that's a good thing!

3. Yes, D2 V1 supports HDMI 1.1, V2 Supports 1.3

4. Yes, all video inputs scaled and transcoded to HDMI output

5. Only if you have an XM radio with an analog out. The Anthem has no XM or Sirius tuner

6. Yes - though I'm sure some guys here can comment on compatible video cards or video settings/timings that work best

7. A matter of opinion. The anthem owners here will most likely favor ARC.

8. Just Ultra 2


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/14874937
> 
> 
> 1. Yes
> 
> 2. No. All of the video inputs will be processed. But that's a good thing!
> 
> 3. Yes, D2 V1 supports HDMI 1.1, V2 Supports 1.3
> 
> 4. Yes, all video inputs scaled and transcoded to HDMI output
> 
> 5. Only if you have an XM radio with an analog out. The Anthem has no XM or Sirius tuner
> 
> 6. Yes - though I'm sure some guys here can comment on compatible video cards or video settings/timings that work best
> 
> 7. A matter of opinion. The anthem owners here will most likely favor ARC.
> 
> 8. Just Ultra 2



Correction on (2) and (4):

Composite video input is only "pass through" to Composite output. It is neither processed nor converted to any other type of video output.


Component video input and output up to 1080i/60 can be processed (= 1080p/30 which is greater than 1080p/24). Component 1080p/60 can also be used but only as unprocessed "pass through" to Component output.


S-Video and Component inputs can be processed to Component or HDMI output.


S-video input to S-video output is always unprocessed "pass through".


Component can be processed to Component or HDMI. Component can also be "passed through" unprocessed to Component output.


HDMI can not be converted to any other form (due to HDMI copy protection). HDMI input is ALWAYS processed. HDMI in and out up to 1080p/60 is supported with full processing. This includes 1080p/24.


Conversion of S-Video to Component or HDMI, or conversion of Component video to HDMI is a type of processing. If you do that for any source, then you are also using the rest of the video processing -- not just the conversion. If you want to use unprocessed S-video then the output must also be S-video. If you want to use unprocessed Component then the output must also be Component.


Note that there are inexpensive converters to turn Composite video into S-video so that you can use an S-video (processed) input instead if you really want to process Composite video. See Radio Shack. The quality is not great, but then neither is Composite video in the first place.


See Sections 2.1 and 2.2 of the manual.


---------------------------------------


On (5):

There are also external XM tuners with optical output. Polk makes one that I use.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14875467
> 
> 
> Correction on (2) and (4):
> 
> Composite video input is only "pass through" to Composite output. It is neither processed nor converted to any other type of video output.
> 
> 
> Component video input and output up to 1080i/60 can be processed (= 1080p/30 which is greater than 1080p/24). Component 1080p/60 can also be used but only as unprocessed "pass through" to Component output.
> 
> 
> S-Video and Component inputs can be processed to Component or HDMI output.
> 
> 
> S-video input to S-video output is always unprocessed "pass through".
> 
> 
> Component can be processed to Component or HDMI. Component can also be "passed through" unprocessed to Component output.
> 
> 
> HDMI can not be converted to any other form (due to HDMI copy protection). HDMI input is ALWAYS processed. HDMI in and out up to 1080p/60 is supported with full processing. This includes 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> Conversion of S-Video to Component or HDMI, or conversion of Component video to HDMI is a type of processing. If you do that for any source, then you are also using the rest of the video processing -- not just the conversion. If you want to use unprocessed S-video then the output must also be S-video. If you want to use unprocessed Component then the output must also be Component.
> 
> 
> Note that there are inexpensive converters to turn Composite video into S-video so that you can use an S-video (processed) input instead if you really want to process Composite video. See Radio Shack. The quality is not great, but then neither is Composite video in the first place.
> 
> 
> See Sections 2.1 and 2.2 of the manual.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> On (5):
> 
> There are also external XM tuners with optical output. Polk makes one that I use.
> 
> --Bob



So if I have one HDMI input (say a BD player), and it sometimes outputs 1080p/24 and sometimes 1080i/30, can I configure the D2 to leave the 1080p/24 as 1080p/24, but upconvert the 1080i/30 to 1080p/60?


I don't want to touch 1080p/24 content in terms of refresh, but I don't want the 30i content on the same HDMI input to be downconverted to 24p either.


Also, I was a little confused by the above in terms of component - will/can all component inputs at all supported resolutions/refresh rates be sent over the HDMI output? And is it only composite inputs that won't go out over HDMI?


Does that make sense?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It is only Composite video that can *NOT* be converted to HDMI (or anything else for that matter). S-Video and Component can both be converted to HDMI. Copy protected HDMI (which basically means all HDMI) can not be converted to anything else


All PROCESSED Component resolutions can be converted to HDMI. Since 1080p/60 Component can not be processed, it can only be used as "pass through" to Component output. And of course if you are not sending the Component input to the scaler -- i.e., if you are using Component as UNprocessed -- then it will only come out as Component; not HDMI.


Even though you can not PROCESS Component 1080p/60 input or generate Component 1080p/60 output as a processed output, you *CAN* still process Component 1080i/60 input (or any lower Component input resolution) to HDMI 1080p/60 output (or any other HDMI output resolution).


EXCEPTION: Copy protected SD-DVD discs (which basically means all commercially produced discs) can only be output as 480i or 480p on Component output. They can be scaled to higher resolutions only using HDMI output. This is an industry-wide restriction.


The two resolutions from Blu-Ray discs you are going to run into are 1080p/24 and 1080i/60 (not 1080i/30).


You can use the Frame Lock feature of the Anthem for this, with 1080p set as the Video Output resolution (see Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock; NOTE this setting is per input source). The Anthem will then send 1080p/24 input out as 1080p/24 and will send 1080i/60 input out as 1080p/60.


Using Frame Lock can slow down the HDMI handshake a bit. Alternatively you can set up two Video Output configurations -- one for 1080p/24 output and one for 1080p/60 output and switch between them on the fly using the remote, or set up two inputs that are from the same source but differ in which Video Output configuration they use by default.


The 1080p/60 output can be used both with 1080p/24 input and with 1080i/60 input. But the 1080p/24 output should only be used with 1080p/24 input since otherwise you will get stuttering.

--Bob


----------



## davidhoenig

Hi Bob -


Quick question for you for around frame lock. I set frame lock to auto, and am watching the 'Sarah Connor Chronicles" on BRD. My D2 says the input is 1080p24 and it's outputting 1080p60. It also says the frame lock is inactive. Any thoughts why it's not passing the native resolution?


Thanks,

Dave


----------



## AnthemAVM




----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/14882500
> 
> 
> Hi Bob -
> 
> 
> Quick question for you for around frame lock. I set frame lock to auto, and am watching the 'Sarah Connor Chronicles" on BRD. My D2 says the input is 1080p24 and it's outputting 1080p60. It also says the frame lock is inactive. Any thoughts why it's not passing the native resolution?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave



Can you get 1080p/24 output from other movies?


If so, then I can only assume there's something peculiar about that disc that let's the D2 accept it as input, but not be able to lock the output to that frame rate. The reason the setting is Auto instead of On is due to such cases. I don't know what the limitation would be in this specific case. You might want to send an email to Anthem tech support and see if they know what's up with this disc.

--Bob


----------



## buddy4711




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/13843759
> 
> 
> Every HDMI source device requiring copy protection periodically retests the HDMI connection chain to make sure the copy protection stuff is still good from end to end. Normally you don't see this. It happens in the background while the content is playing. However, if the check fails, then the source does a complete new handshake to try again and that takes a couple seconds (during which the video glitches).
> 
> 
> I suspect some of the HDMI changes Anthem made for the V1.31 firmware have made this re-checking process more sensitive for some devices. However the cabling suggestion really is the place to start. Even a slightly different mechanical fit of the plugs in the sockets can make a difference, particularly for 1080p video.
> 
> 
> Your current cable's plugs might have become a bit loose in the sockets, or they might have a tiny bit of corrosion on the pins. Frankly, it is a bit of a miracle that 1080p video works at all over HDMI, so the plug/socket connections really do have to be "right". Even a slight shift of the plug in the socket, due perhaps to the weight of the cable, can cause problems.
> 
> 
> If a cable swap out doesn't work, give Anthem tech support a call with details on the source device giving you problems.
> 
> 
> I have seen some infrequent cases of HDMI re-check static with my source devices and V1.31c, but it is rare enough that it is hard to tell if it is really an HDMI issue or something equally rare like a power glitch or more common like a signal screw up from Comcast.
> 
> 
> It is also wise to consider if anything has changed in the ventilation around your sources and the Anthem, as HDMI driver chips can be temperature sensitive. (But frankly, the cable/plug/socket issue is way more common as the cause of this.)



Since several weeks I have exactly the same issues with loosing connections due to handshakes between the D2 (1.33 installed) and TV or projector which are all connected with good and reliable HDMI-cables. I am in contact with Anthem Tech support but no results so far! very annoying, I am getting a blue screen every 7-10 minutes for a few second. I did not yet get access to the new firmware 1.34 (1.32c) so far. Can anyone give it to me (in case this doesn't solve the issues either I can still reinstall 1.33 official release) ?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14882724



Nice DISHES - is that the Topic of This Thread Now


----------



## AbMagFab

Are we to assume that's a D2v2?


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14883566
> 
> 
> Nice DISHES - is that the Topic of This Thread Now



I just hope he does not need service on the 9.9.


I went from a D1 (pre ARC) to a 9.8. Lost significant sound qaulity on analog and added a HT capable preamp to the 9.8. (The video or the 9.8 was really pretty comparable and the sound on the digital sources was close).


I tried the Audessey (SP?) on the 9.8 and found it made little difference in sound quality (not the Aud that requires additional cost and a one-time calibration by an outside trained person).


The HDMI on the 9.8 went out - 8 weeks to get it back. I found that unacceptable.


Sold the 9.8 and went back to a D1-HD, sound was even on analog between the HT preamp and the D1-HD. Added ARC, the D1-HD was better in analog than the preamp - sold the preamp, won't turn back.


I do admit that overall the cost of the D1-HD (or D2) as compared to the 9.8 / HT Bypass Capable Preamp was higher, but for me - worth it.


Mike


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14882724



The one in the bigger box has to sound better. I mean c'mon, it comes in a bigger box.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14884808
> 
> 
> The one in the bigger box has to sound better. I mean c'mon, it comes in a bigger box.



Nah. The sound is better from the heavier box.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/14883533
> 
> 
> Since several weeks I have exactly the same issues with loosing connections due to handshakes between the D2 (1.33 installed) and TV or projector which are all connected with good and reliable HDMI-cables. I am in contact with Anthem Tech support but no results so far! very annoying, I am getting a blue screen every 7-10 minutes for a few second. I did not yet get access to the new firmware 1.34 (1.32c) so far. Can anyone give it to me (in case this doesn't solve the issues either I can still reinstall 1.33 official release) ?



Believe me you do not want to use the V1.32c test software -- the one were they briefly put out to experiment with new HDMI drivers. It is not even Beta quality. That's why it was withdrawn after a brief field testing period this past summer.


I imagine Anthem has gone through all the simple steps with you. You may need a new video board.


But once you have eliminated the simple stuff like cables, it is almost always the case that HDMI problems come down to faulty source device implementations.


For example Comcast is in the process of pushing out the 75.59 software for their Motorola boxes and its HDMI implementation is godawful -- a real step backwards from their prior software.


When you bring up Anthem's internally generated video patterns (Video Source Adjust > Patterns), do you get a stable HDMI image on your projector? If so, that too would point to a problem on the source device side.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14883566
> 
> 
> Nice DISHES - is that the Topic of This Thread Now



Uh, hello....the subject isn't the dishes obviously. It's his hardwood floors!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It makes perfect sense to me that the Anthem box is open and the Integra box is sealed up ready to go back.










--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14885923
> 
> 
> It makes perfect sense to me that the Anthem box is open and the Integra box is sealed up ready to go back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob


----------



## tngiloy

I've just finished reading Kal Rubinson's fine , in depth comparison of the D2 ARC and the Audyssey SEQ in the Nov/08 Stereophile magazine. Great job. I'll let you all draw your own conclusions, but D2 owners have absolutly no reason to regret their purchase.

I know that with the frequent firmware upgrades and the addition of ARC, I am happier now with my D2 than I was when I first bought it years ago. Very few a/v products get better over time like the D2 has.

I do have a qustion for Kal. You wrote, "Amazingly, the speaker distances measured by the ARC and the Audyssey differed only by inches." I was under the impression that the D2 didn't do automatic speaker distance measurment, that it needed to be done with a tape measure. Does the new ARC firmware do an automatic measurement?

Anyway, thanks for the fine article, Kal.

Tom


----------



## tngiloy

In the process of checking my speaker distance in the D2 set-up menu I experienced the same buzzing I had labeled as 'Oppo screech' in an earlier post. It happened when going to the hdmi input(from the D2) while watching satellite thru component. After experimenting for a while it appears that the buzzing noise was comming from the TV speakers on my Samsung dlp. The occasional buzzing I heard must have happened when I forgot to turn off the TV's volume before switching to the hdmi connection from the D2.

Mea culpa. The hdmi handshake problem is in the Samsung and has nothing to do with either the Oppo or D2.

Its now obvious to me that it was 'user error' by me.









Tom


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14889391
> 
> 
> I do have a qustion for Kal. You wrote, "Amazingly, the speaker distances measured by the ARC and the Audyssey differed only by inches." I was under the impression that the D2 didn't do automatic speaker distance measurment, that it needed to be done with a tape measure. Does the new ARC firmware do an automatic measurement?
> 
> Anyway, thanks for the fine article, Kal.
> 
> Tom



My error. The distances I got with Audyssey were the same as the distances already in the D-2, as determined by tape measure. I will also have to check my notes and see if I meant to be saying something about channel levels, instead. Sorry.


----------



## AltaHomeTheatre

Just received ARC for my D2 and performed first firmware upgrade (from Ver 1.11) and ran ARC. Everything went very smooth.


I have not done any listening yet, but would like to post the ARC charts for comments. I dont know what they are telling me, but something seems wrong with my subwoofer performance.


I have a small dedicated room (12 x 17 - no treatments). I have two subs; a paradigm seismic 10 and an older 15" Klipsch sub. It seems very odd they are only going down to 25Hz.


Any comments about what could be wrong here? Do I need better subs? I always noticed that they seem to shake the house, but little bass in the room.


What about the rest of the graphs, do they look normal?


Thanks in advance, I know nothing about this, but would like to learn.


----------



## obie_fl

Try turning one of the subs off and redo the measurements. You may have cancellation going on. I have this issue if I run my SVS with my two MFW-15s. You can try playing with the phase between them but it may require actually switching the polarity of one of them.


----------



## AltaHomeTheatre

Tom,


Thanks for the advice. I will go an turn one of subs off and do some recalculations.


Some additional information:

When preparing to run this the first time, I was followed Bobs instructions (post 14420). When attempting to set the test tones correct, I had to turn the sub volume up very high (90% of max). I then had to adjust noise level up +9Db to reach 75Db. I did the same experiments with one and two subs on - no difference I had to go +9Db.


What seemed very odd was that after running ARC and looking at the speaker settings, the subs were set to -12Db. This seemed very odd.


This may be the result of what you were eluding to in your comments about the phase and cancellation.


I will report back my findings with a single sub.


Thanks

Darryl


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/14885875
> 
> 
> Uh, hello....the subject isn't the dishes obviously. It's his hardwood floors!



You know me Rob - ALWAYS thinking of FOOD


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AltaHomeTheatre* /forum/post/14895359
> 
> 
> Just received ARC for my D2 and performed first firmware upgrade (from Ver 1.11) and ran ARC. Everything went very smooth.
> 
> 
> I have not done any listening yet, but would like to post the ARC charts for comments. I dont know what they are telling me, but something seems wrong with my subwoofer performance.
> 
> 
> I have a small dedicated room (12 x 17 - no treatments). I have two subs; a paradigm seismic 10 and an older 15" Klipsch sub. It seems very odd they are only going down to 25Hz.
> 
> 
> Any comments about what could be wrong here? Do I need better subs? I always noticed that they seem to shake the house, but little bass in the room.
> 
> 
> What about the rest of the graphs, do they look normal?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance, I know nothing about this, but would like to learn.



The only significant issue I can see in your charts is the combo subwoofer performance.


There's a little less Room Gain hump in the curves for your two surround speakers compared to the fronts and center but that's minor.


----------------------------------------


The combo of the two subs you are using looks like it would be rated down to only about 35Hz. That may just be the nature of your two subs. A lot of older subwoofers were not designed to go much below the bulk of the LFE energy in the 50-70Hz range. Check the specs for each subwoofer.


But there are things to try.


First check the setup of each sub. Some subs have a "subsonic" filter that you can disable. Also make sure you have bypassed the internal crossover inside each sub. If you can't bypass it, turn it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. In some subs, you bypass the internal crossover by using an alternate set of input jacks. Both subs should be cabled from the D2 rather than daisy chained from one to the other.


Next let's tackle the subwoofer level issue. Go into the Setup menu and set your speaker configuration to ONE SUBWOOFER. Now go into the Speaker Calibration menu. Leave the Noise Level line where you have it now -- that's working well for you. Don't worry about the volume trim lines for any of the other speakers.


Power off either of the subs so that only one of them is live. Turn the volume knobs well down on both subwoofers so you don't blast yourself at the beginning of this adjustment. Adjust the subwoofer volume trim line in the D2 back to 0dB.


Make sure your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter has fresh batteries. Measure at the #1 mic position you use for ARC with the meter pointing straight up at seated ear height. Don't stand right up against the meter -- arm's length is good. Make sure the tip of the meter is clear of the seat back (either above it or a foot or so in front of it). The meter should be on "Slow" response and "C" weighting.


Now, leaving the D2's subwoofer volume trim at 0dB, and leaving Noise Level where you already have it, set the test mode in the first line of the Speaker Calibration menu to Manual, scroll down to the subwoofer trim line, and adjust the volume knob on the live subwoofer until you get an SPL of 73dB. That's 73, not 75.


Power down that first sub and repeat with the second sub alone, again adjusting its volume knob to get 73dB. Remember, you are leaving the subwoofer volume trim in the D2 at 0dB during this and also not changing the Noise Level line you have been using.


If your subs are separated in the room, 73dB from each of them should combine to 75dB when used together. Again, you need to specify ONE SUBWOOFER in the speaker configuration to do this so that the D2 is not modifying the Speaker Calibration level already to account for 2 subs used together. Leave it set to 1 subwoofer, as that's what ARC also needs.


[If your two subs are adjacent, you may need to use a bit lower than 73dB each to get a combo of 75dB.]


Next adjust phase and polarity. I don't see any strong signs of cancellation between your two subs, but this is still something you should do before running ARC again.


Once again you do this with only one sub powered at a time. You will need a calibration DVD. Find the subwoofer phase test on it. It will send low frequency "pink noise" to both the sub and the LF speaker simultaneously. Adjust polarity and phase on your first sub to get the maximum volume of this. Usually this is best done by EAR -- not the SPL meter. Adjust Main Volume on the D2 to a comfortable level for listening to this as this will take a while.


What you are listening for is primarily the higher frequencies in the pink noise since those are the frequencies nearest the crossover -- the ones most likely to cancel between LF and the given sub. Adjust to get the maximum of the higher end of this hiss. Typically you will set Polarity to normal for a sub in the front of the room and to inverted for a sub at the rear of the room. Then try different Phase settings to get the maximum. When you have finished with the first sub, power it down and repeat with just the second sub. Once you have both subs in proper phase with the LF speaker then they are also in phase with each other.


But they may still be out of match in Polarity which can result in cancellation between the two subs themselves, so it is good to measure one of them to discover proper Phase (vs. the LF speaker) while using the alternate Polarity. Then you have two ways of using them: Your original Phase and Polarity for each, and the original settings for one along with the alternate Polarity (and resulting Phase) for the other. If the cancellation between them is severe you may even be able to hear it by powering up both subs, running the phase test from the calibration DVD again and comparing the two combos of settings you just produced. In this test you would be listening more for lower frequency bass -- again the combo settings that produce the most bass is the correct combo. But usually the ear (and the SPL meter) won't be sensitive enough to pick this up that easily. If there's a real change here it is more likely it will show up in the ARC curves.


Note that you need separate adjustments for each sub to accomplish this. If only one sub has internal adjustments you can use the D2's adjustments for the other sub (which means you need to set up that sub FIRST), and then the adjustments you make in the sub with controls will counter the D2 settings as well as refining for what that sub needs.


Now go run ARC again.


After you Measure, check in the Targets window and report what you are getting. Calculate and Upload and report the speaker levels you are now getting.


ARC's speaker level measurements are more reliable than what you can get with the SPL meter. If ARC is still saying it needs to trim the combo sub volume down so much you should trust ARC and lower the volume knobs on both subs and rerun the ARC setup until ARC reports it can use a volume trim for them closer to 0dB. And remember that you must leave the D2 set to "1 subwoofer" when using ARC.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

Bob P


Take a look at this link, I'd be interested in your opinion. (English translation is about halfway down the page.

http://hdtvpolska.com/index.php?showtopic=13050


----------



## AltaHomeTheatre

Bob, thanks for the detailed reply.


When I looked on Paradigm site, they stated Low Frequency Extension was 21 Hz. Does that mean I should be getting 75Db at 21Hz? As you noted, the lowest I get 75Db is 35Hz.


I suspect the older Klipsch sub may not go as low and I have done a ton of testing today with a single sub (as Tom suggested). When running ARC with either of the individual subs, I get results very similar to what I had previously posted. I assumed the graphs should look similar to those others have posted (such as yours or Toms where the sub graph starts at approx 75Db and 20Hz). Maybe most of the subs here are of such a higher quality that I would not see such a curve.


I dont know if I am misunderstanding these values, but when I go into Room Resonance Filter, I get the following values on my SPL meter (only 1 Paradigm sub running):


18Hz-56Db; 21Hz-60Db; 24Hz-75Db; 27Hz-83Db; 30Hz-83Db; 33Hz-82Db; 36Hz-80Db.


Not sure what to make of these values. I think they tell me my sub goes down to at least 24Hz - but not sure. These values were recorded after I calibrated the single sub to 75Db (using instructions above). Any idea why when calibrated to 75Db, the values for some frequencies are higher?


I will redo the calibrations as you suggested. I think I will redo for both single and dual subs. I will post both graphs.


Darryl


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14885923
> 
> 
> It makes perfect sense to me that the Anthem box is open and the Integra box is sealed up ready to go back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



It is obvious


----------



## davidhoenig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14882733
> 
> 
> Can you get 1080p/24 output from other movies?
> 
> 
> If so, then I can only assume there's something peculiar about that disc that let's the D2 accept it as input, but not be able to lock the output to that frame rate. The reason the setting is Auto instead of On is due to such cases. I don't know what the limitation would be in this specific case. You might want to send an email to Anthem tech support and see if they know what's up with this disc.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob -


I can't seem to get it from other movies either, now that I look for it. The D2 is outputting everything at 1080p60. I've confirmed with a couple other BRD's that are 1080p24.


Besides setting frame lock to 'Auto', are there any other settings I might need to adjust to ensure 1080p24 is passed correctly and not converted to 1080p60?


In the normal setup menu I have the video output set to 1080p60. Is there a different setting that I might need to use?


I just double-check my display compatibilities; I have a Mitsubishi WD73833 and it accepts 1080i, 1080p24,30,60, so it's not a display incompatibility.


Thanks,

Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/14899812
> 
> 
> Bob P
> 
> 
> Take a look at this link, I'd be interested in your opinion. (English translation is about halfway down the page.
> 
> http://hdtvpolska.com/index.php?showtopic=13050



My opinion is that Sony has decided to go after the overpriced player market rather than leaving it to Pioneer and Denon.










I don't have a lot of faith in such reviews. I'm much more interested in what results people get after the product ships. Player makers are still having a lot of trouble getting the basics right, which is far more important than most of the stuff these companies are tossing in to justify the high cost of these players for next year.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/14902030
> 
> 
> Hi Bob -
> 
> 
> I can't seem to get it from other movies either, now that I look for it. The D2 is outputting everything at 1080p60. I've confirmed with a couple other BRD's that are 1080p24.
> 
> 
> Besides setting frame lock to 'Auto', are there any other settings I might need to adjust to ensure 1080p24 is passed correctly and not converted to 1080p60?
> 
> 
> In the normal setup menu I have the video output set to 1080p60. Is there a different setting that I might need to use?
> 
> 
> I just double-check my display compatibilities; I have a Mitsubishi WD73833 and it accepts 1080i, 1080p24,30,60, so it's not a display incompatibility.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave



Turn Frame Lock OFF for that source and set up another Video Output configuration with 1080p/24 as the specified output. See if you can get /24 output that way when using that Video Output configuration with your player as source.


The difference is that this "forces" 1080p/24 even if your display is not properly reporting back to the D2 that it accepts that. I don't know if your display has this problem.


You will probably need to send an email to Anthem tech support with model details on your player and display to see if they know of any reason why Frame Lock AUTO wouldn't be able to work with your stuff.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AltaHomeTheatre* /forum/post/14900000
> 
> 
> Bob, thanks for the detailed reply.
> 
> 
> When I looked on Paradigm site, they stated Low Frequency Extension was 21 Hz. Does that mean I should be getting 75Db at 21Hz? As you noted, the lowest I get 75Db is 35Hz.
> 
> 
> I suspect the older Klipsch sub may not go as low and I have done a ton of testing today with a single sub (as Tom suggested). When running ARC with either of the individual subs, I get results very similar to what I had previously posted. I assumed the graphs should look similar to those others have posted (such as yours or Toms where the sub graph starts at approx 75Db and 20Hz). Maybe most of the subs here are of such a higher quality that I would not see such a curve.
> 
> 
> I dont know if I am misunderstanding these values, but when I go into Room Resonance Filter, I get the following values on my SPL meter (only 1 Paradigm sub running):
> 
> 
> 18Hz-56Db; 21Hz-60Db; 24Hz-75Db; 27Hz-83Db; 30Hz-83Db; 33Hz-82Db; 36Hz-80Db.
> 
> 
> Not sure what to make of these values. I think they tell me my sub goes down to at least 24Hz - but not sure. These values were recorded after I calibrated the single sub to 75Db (using instructions above). Any idea why when calibrated to 75Db, the values for some frequencies are higher?
> 
> 
> I will redo the calibrations as you suggested. I think I will redo for both single and dual subs. I will post both graphs.
> 
> 
> Darryl



The SPL meter hears a wide range of frequencies when you play the calibration "pink noise", so the overall pressure level you hear may very well differ from what you measure at any given frequency.


ARC itself uses results from an even wider range of frequencies to pick the best level for the sub. The actual sub output at any frequency with ARC turned on is a combo of the level ARC picks, the crossovers it sets up, and the room correction processing.


I suspect your 10" sub is just too small for your room. It can't huff enough air to pressurize the room at the lower frequencies so you are seeing more drop off than you would get (given its specs) in a smaller room. Your 15" sub in combo with it can probably move the air, but is probably not speced down as far. The result is that neither of them is pressurizing the room down there.


[What matters is the cubic feet of VOLUME of the listening space -- so tall ceilings increase the work the sub needs to do. Since the sub is "pressurizing" the space, openings to adjacent rooms or up stairs also increase the work the sub needs to do. Generally, the low frequency spec of a sub is the point where it is 3 to 5dB down from what you are trying to get it to produce.]


The bottom line is that if you want to get those subsonics (below 30Hz), you may need to replace the 2 subs you have now with a new sub properly sized for the room. Mind you, what you have now is not bad. The results ARC is producing look clean and well balanced. You just aren't producing the subsonic frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

davidhoenig,

Another thought. Some displays have settings or combos of settings that disable their ability to accept 1080p/24 input. The Pioneer Kuro displays are like that for example.


Check in the display's manual, and also in the appropriate owner's thread in the display forum here to see if you can find some setting you need to change in the display to enable 1080p/24 input. It will likely have to do with turning on or off some combo of video processing in the display.


You may even discover that the display only accepts 1080p/24 on one input and not another. Make sure you are using the correct input.

--Bob


----------



## davidhoenig

Hi Bob!


Thanks for the hints. I managed to figure things out. Under the standard setup menu, under "Video Output", I set my video out config. resolution to 1080p24.


I then went back to the scaler menu sources and set them all to frame lock 'Auto'. This way the set will default to 1080p24 when such a source is received, and generally output 1080p60 whenever other sources are received, based on their frame rate (HD-DVD, DVD, Xbox360, PS3 games).


As always, Bob, you've proven yourself to be an indispensable asset to the community.


Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Good! Apparently your display is one of those that needs 1080p/24 to be "forced" -- i.e., it accepts it just fine but doesn't publish to the source that you can actually send it that.


---------------------------------


Now you may find HDMI handshakes are slowed down a bit more than you like when used with Frame Lock = AUTO this way. If so, set up a second Video Output configuration with 1080p/24 output, turn Frame Lock = OFF for all sources, and use a 1080p/60 configuration as the default Video Output configuration for all sources.


Then, whenever you want 1080p/24, either use an overlayed source you have set up for your player (e.g., DVD2 vs. DVD1) which selects the 1080p/24 Video Output configuration, or switch to the 1080p/24 Video Output configuration on the fly using the remote.

--Bob


----------



## davidhoenig

Bob -


All great advice. I've been trying to simply my system lately, and while those are great techniques that I understand perfectly well, others who use my system really wouldn't understand the how's or why's anyway.


I'll live with the extra couple seconds of handshaking to say myself the headache of trying to explain







I'm also hoping that Anthem will continue to improve the handshaking algorithms, especially with the v2 update that I REALLY am looking forward to.


D


----------



## AltaHomeTheatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14897000
> 
> 
> After you Measure, check in the Targets window and report what you are getting. Calculate and Upload and report the speaker levels you are now getting.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I re calibrated as you suggested (but only the paradigm sub until I get better at this). Using your techniques I was able to:
bypass "subsonic" filter
get away from large variance in trim settings. I left the D2's subwoofer volume trim at 0dB and adjusted sub volume to get 75Db.

The following was reported by ARC for cross overs and speaker calibration


Crossovers

L - 45

C - 45

Sur - 115

Sub - 115

Room Gain - 3.945749

Max Freq - 5000


Speaker Cal

FL: 0

C: +1.0

FR: 0

SR: -0.5

SL: -1.0

Sub: +1.0


The graphs are attached.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14897000
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that if you want to get those subsonics (below 30Hz), you may need to replace the 2 subs you have now with a new sub properly sized for the room. Mind you, what you have now is not bad. The results ARC is producing look clean and well balanced. You just aren't producing the subsonic frequencies.



I suspect you are correct in that the subs I have are under-sized for what I was expecting. I appreciate your insights that what I have looks correct. Everything does sound amazing to me, I have always felt that the bass was weak.


I will start working on adding the second sub back in according your instructions. The steps for setting Polarity and Phase will be invaluable for me. Then I think I will go subwoofer shopping







. My Anthem dealer did say I might need two of the Seismic 10s, but I think I will try and find something that will go lower.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I suspect you will be happier with just one (or perhaps two) larger subs rather than two 10" subs. You can also get a natural boost in the lowest frequencies if you place the sub near a wall, or even better in a corner -- called "Boundary Gain". ARC measures and processes down to 5Hz so it can blend any such Boundary Gain smoothly into the rest of your sub's response.


If your dealer can loan you a larger sub that's rated deeper, it is pretty easy to redo the ARC Measurements and see what sort of subwoofer curve you get -- which should help you feel comfortable the loaner sub is a good match for your room before you actually purchase.


--------------------------------------------


These curves really look quite good except that your sub doesn't go down into the subsonic range. Comparing the dual sub and single sub Measured curves I don't see any signs of significant cancellation in the dual sub configuration, so your phase settings were probably pretty close already. It just looks like neither sub goes deep enough with enough energy output to pressurize your size of room. I.e., you probably need a bigger sub that's rated to go deep.


Your biggest residual in the main frequency regions is either side of 150Hz in the LF speaker, but even that one is tiny. And your high frequencies look very good indeed considering that you've got ARC only correcting things up to the default 5KHz.


The only thing that catches my eye (other than the sub of course) is that your Room Gain hump is smaller in the surrounds than in the main speakers. But that's more a curiosity than a problem. I suspect ARC did it on purpose since it found it necessary to use a high crossover for those (in combo with the low crossover for your mains). I.e., the hump peaks around 100Hz and the surrounds are already in the crossover region by that point.


---------------------------------------------


One thing you might try is raising the Max EQ Frequency Target to something around 15KHz to see if you can tackle that remaining dip at 15KHz. You don't need to re-Measure to do that. Just open a copy of your file in the Advanced mode, change that Target in the Targets window, accept that change, and re-Calculate.


What you are looking for is whether you can get an improved result up there without also generating undesirable oscillations in the Calculated curve in the lower frequencies (due to ARC moving more of its processing resources up high).


It's easy to experiment with various Max EQ Frequency Target settings to see what looks like the best compromise setting. When you've got a Calculation you like, Upload it and give it a listen. As always, trust your ears. If the higher Max EQ Frequency Target sounds better, then it IS better.


But really, the results you have right now should sound quite good.

--Bob


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14882724




OK AnthemAVM, your dishes and new floor are pretty (and btw I'm guessing that the new floor was a wpp-wife pacification purchase-so you could buy what's in the Anthem box







)---SO, WHAT THE HELL IS IN THAT BOX????? Inquiring minds want to know


----------



## venpra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AnthemAVM* /forum/post/14882724



I think I have it figured out. The message is meant to be subliminal, but the folded American flag is a give away. The intent obviously is to encourage:


"Buy American"

or, at least, "Buy North American"

or, at a minimum, "Buy from a NAFTA partner".


----------



## LEVESQUE

Nay... You're all wrong.


The only way for his wife to let him buy both was the promise to wash the dishes for at least a full year. And since it's a new experience for him, he was all proud to show it. Clean dishes.










We all know now who is wearing the pants in that house!


----------



## yacht422

walt here. been off line for a few months -wife had a new knee installed.

question: I was listening/watching a dvd of bach's best organ works. dvd booted, ran, _then_ the menu appeared. audio options were DD5.1 or uncompressed 48hx /24 bit .

the first listening was at DD5.1(default) i then choose the 48/24 'mix', and the difference was night & day. even the wife commented on same, prior to exiting the h/t - boring was her parting comment.

so- the question is , why the sonic difference? is DD5.1 THAT compressed? The DVD was a std dvd running of a sony blu ray player. i did not think that truly uncompressed audio was available on a sony bd

(?)

walt


----------



## dschamis

Any update on the ETA of the v2?


----------



## yatchaks

I now have a Pioneer Kuro 151FD and am confused about a few things.


I am using a PS3 as my blueray source and have another setup within the Anthem to output 1080P/24.


The Kuro is capable of converting a 1080P/24 signal to 72hz. Will the Anthem allow the 72hz signal to pass with my current settings, or will the Anthem not allow the 72hz signal to pass through at all?


I am also interested in comparing the two scalers. If I use dot to dot mode from the Kuro, will I then bypass the Kuro scaler? If so, then I assume that if I switch the Kuro to full mode, I will then bypass the Anthem scaler?


Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yatchaks* /forum/post/14918387
> 
> 
> I now have a Pioneer Kuro 151FD and am confused about a few things.
> 
> 
> I am using a PS3 as my blueray source and have another setup within the Anthem to output 1080P/24.
> 
> 
> The Kuro is capable of converting a 1080P/24 signal to 72hz. Will the Anthem allow the 72hz signal to pass with my current settings, or will the Anthem not allow the 72hz signal to pass through at all?
> 
> 
> I am also interested in comparing the two scalers. If I use dot to dot mode from the Kuro, will I then bypass the Kuro scaler? If so, then I assume that if I switch the Kuro to full mode, I will then bypass the Anthem scaler?
> 
> 
> Mark



The 72Hz thing in the Kuro is entirely internal to the panel. It is just it's refresh rate for /24 inputs. It repeats each incoming frame 3 times.


The Kuro can not input /72 (even if you could find a way to produce that) and of course it doesn't output /72.


So the Anthem has nothing to do with this. The Anthem properly passes /24 to the Kuro and the Kuro does its frame repetition stuff (to reduce flicker primarily).


----------------------------------


You can not bypass the Anthem scaler when using HDMI. If the input and output resolutions and frame rates are the same the Anthem scaler has less work to do but the video is still processed (input levels, gamma correction, data format conversion).


Set the Anthem to 1080p output and set your Kuro to dot to dot (and Pure mode as I recall) and you will be in the best setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/14918382
> 
> 
> Any update on the ETA of the v2?



Nope. Nothing yet.

--Bob


----------



## yatchaks

Very good.


Thanks Bob!


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/14921300
> 
> 
> Yes its that compressed.48/24 is a little better than 44/16PCM (redbook CD). I believe DD5.1 is just 384k for all the 6 channels while the PCM option is just plain stereo.



thx for the response. i would suggest that the 48/24 combo is really quite a bit better then the DD version. the sound is much fuller - much! this is the first time i have encountered the option of "_uncompressed audio_", which is how it was described in the menu. -would like to find more of same.

regards

walt


----------



## AltaHomeTheatre

Bob,


Thanks again for your comments and insights. I attempted to do exactly as you stated with adding the second sub. I spent hours listening to the DVEssentials DVD in attempting to get phase correct between LF and both subs. This might come easy to some, but I had a hard time determining what was best or correct. I hope I did not mess up the previous good results.


I have attached my latest ARC results. I think the sub graphs are slightly better as they seem to start a little lower. I think I am now getting the most out of the subs I have.


I have really enjoyed playing with the ARC tool. As I learn more I am sure I can start doing a lot more with sub placement etc (currently both are in corners along the same wall - 1 front - 1 back). I will try some experiments with a higher max eq frequency. I will let you know if I can do something to fix the drop at 150Hz.


Thanks,

Darryl


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You put the same chart up twice (front speakers and surrounds) so I can't see how your subwoofers turned out.


Don't even bother trying to fix that blip either side of 150Hz. It's too small to worry about. Really. The 15KHz dip is worth taking a shot at however since everything is already so good.


Doing Phase adjustment takes a bit of practice as the effect is pretty subtle until you get more used to what you are listening for. The next time you try it, you will likely find it easier.


One good trick is to close in on the Phase from either side of the candidate "best" setting and split the difference if you get two different answers.


Another is to periodically swing the Phase 180 degrees away from your candidate "best" setting just to remind yourself of what the difference is you are trying to hear.

--Bob


----------



## Anderslober

Hello Bob....just a quick....question......is the D1 really upgradeable to the full D2V2? Or is there a short-cut somewhere?


Will they(Anthem) change the internals and back plate of the D1 to make it a FULL D2?



Rgds, A.


----------



## airboyd

Well, I can only hope it's not too expensive. I just did my D1-HD upgrade in July. Unit was gone for a full month. I haven't been all that impressed with the video processor so far, but I love the ARC. Not sure I'm keen to upgrade again within 4 months of the last one. I waited as long as I could to upgrade.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Anderslober* /forum/post/14923380
> 
> 
> Hello Bob....just a quick....question......is the D1 really upgradeable to the full D2V2? Or is there a short-cut somewhere?
> 
> 
> Will they(Anthem) change the internals and back plate of the D1 to make it a FULL D2?
> 
> 
> 
> Rgds, A.



Yep. No short-cuts as far as function. Cosmetically, they don't redo the front panel so you don't get the new logos for new features.


Obviously at this point you want to wait until you can get the upgrade to the new D2 v.2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd* /forum/post/14923500
> 
> 
> Well, I can only hope it's not too expensive. I just did my D1-HD upgrade in July. Unit was gone for a full month. I haven't been all that impressed with the video processor so far, but I love the ARC. Not sure I'm keen to upgrade again within 4 months of the last one. I waited as long as I could to upgrade.



There's not much that can be said about the upgrade situation except to offer sympathies.


Are there particular issues you are having with the video processor that folks here might be able to help you with?

--Bob


----------



## TiVolution

Anyone with a DirecTV DVR try to use DirecTV's new 1080p output with the Anthem? I did and the DVR says that the Anthem isn't compatible with DirecTV's 1080p output. I understand that this is a 1080p/24 resolution meant for the soon to be available 1080p movies on demand from DirecTV. I was wondering if others had any luck. My guess is that the DirecTV and Anthem handshake is failing for some reason because 1080p/24 is working with my BluRays.


----------



## joealbracht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TiVolution* /forum/post/14924784
> 
> 
> Anyone with a DirecTV DVR try to use DirecTV's new 1080p output with the Anthem? I did and the DVR says that the Anthem isn't compatible with DirecTV's 1080p output. I understand that this is a 1080p/24 resolution meant for the soon to be available 1080p movies on demand from DirecTV. I was wondering if others had any luck. My guess is that the DirecTV and Anthem handshake is failing for some reason because 1080p/24 is working with my BluRays.



I had the same problem but got it to work. When you check the 1080p box within HDTV setup and the the screen goes dark, you have to press the INFO button and all should be well. Also, there is no 1080p programming yet so you can't actually use 1080p support.


----------



## TiVolution

Thanks for the info. I'll try that tonight. I heard that the content wasn't available yet (and I'm not really sure I'd use it much anyway) but I can't help but want to try it out.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14923536
> 
> 
> There's not much that can be said about the upgrade situation except to offer sympathies.
> 
> 
> --Bob



We are approaching November at a rapid pace.


I and many others - I HEAR - have had our ARC Upgrade

kit on ORDER since August. I called again today to check

with my Anthem Dealer for a status report.


He said the latest news he heard was last week at this

time when Anthem said TWO WEEKS. But he admits he

has been hearing that two week forecast since August.

*HELLO OUT THERE NICK - WHERE ARE THEY*


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Good grief, you still don't have your D2 ARC upgrade kit?


It's a disc, a mic, a cable, a stand and a box. How hard can that be to make?


It would be different if your dealer mistakenly ordered an AVM-50 ARC kit as I suspect Anthem is looking at the DSP board that comes with that due to the "hiss" issue some have had.


You sure your dealer hasn't just forgotten to actually place the order?

--Bob


----------



## airboyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TiVolution* /forum/post/14924784
> 
> 
> Anyone with a DirecTV DVR try to use DirecTV's new 1080p output with the Anthem? I did and the DVR says that the Anthem isn't compatible with DirecTV's 1080p output. I understand that this is a 1080p/24 resolution meant for the soon to be available 1080p movies on demand from DirecTV. I was wondering if others had any luck. My guess is that the DirecTV and Anthem handshake is failing for some reason because 1080p/24 is working with my BluRays.



Select the 1080P option, and then when the screen goes blank, hit INFO a few times until it comes back. The forum I read this on says that the DirecTV unit is looking for a handshake that the Anthem (and most equipment) doesn't have. If you hit INFO it selects i as if you could actually see the new 1080P even though you can't. Took me 2 hours of forums searching for that tidbit. Works fine on my HR20 HD DVR with a Sony KDS 60-A3000. There is nothing to watch though. They had a 1080 channel on demand with 4 1080P movies, but they are gone now.


----------



## airboyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14923536
> 
> 
> There's not much that can be said about the upgrade situation except to offer sympathies.
> 
> 
> Are there particular issues you are having with the video processor that folks here might be able to help you with?
> 
> --Bob



No. I only had an XBOX 360 and my DirecTV HD DVR hooked up to my Sony 60-A3000. The XBOX outputs 1080P (unlocked frame rate on some games) and the DirecTV unit is 1080P over HDMI. There isn't a huge difference to our eyes in the scaler for 2 acceptable HD sources. I have to use the XBOX at 1080i now due to the component cables. It does do a great job on my old Denon DVD player, upscaling nicely and will get a few more years out of my obsolete DVD library. I just haven't seen much benefit for the money paid, more so now there's a new one. I just wasn't convinced it was worth the $ upgrade back in July when I did it, and thought about waiting as there was talk of a D3. I probably should have waited a few more months. The ARC rocks though.


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joealbracht* /forum/post/14924881
> 
> 
> I had the same problem but got it to work. When you check the 1080p box within HDTV setup and the the screen goes dark, you have to press the INFO button and all should be well. Also, there is no 1080p programming yet so you can't actually use 1080p support.



i have had no problems -to date!

walt


----------



## AltaHomeTheatre

Bob,


Reposting my ARC results - this time with the sub. When I looked closer today I noticed a fairly big dip at 50Hz. Maybe I did more damage than good







. Can I correctly assume from the calculated line that ARC was able to correct that?


For others awaiting ARC, I ordered Oct 4 and received it Oct 14.


Darryl


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AltaHomeTheatre* /forum/post/14930822
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Reposting my ARC results - this time with the sub. When I looked closer today I noticed a fairly big dip at 50Hz. Maybe I did more damage than good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Can I correctly assume from the calculated line that ARC was able to correct that?
> 
> 
> For others awaiting ARC, I ordered Oct 4 and received it Oct 14.
> 
> 
> Darryl



You're fine. You may have a bit of phase cancellation going on near 50Hz between your two subs, but Arc has that well in hand (as shown by the Calculated curve). Your overall bass response is not much changed from before, which is just more evidence that what you really need to get response into the subsonics is a bigger subwoofer with deep range.


As things stand, since your basic target level is 75dB (i.e., the flat part of the main speaker Calculated curves to the right of the Room Gain "hump"), then taking the lower limit of decent bass response as either 3dB or 5dB below that, you are getting decent bass down to 31Hz or 28Hz respectively. Perfectly reasonable for the subs you have now. A bigger, deep sub would probably get you up to another octave (16Hz or so).

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14928941
> 
> 
> Good grief, you still don't have your D2 ARC upgrade kit?
> 
> 
> It's a disc, a mic, a cable, a stand and a box. How hard can that be to make?
> 
> 
> It would be different if your dealer mistakenly ordered an AVM-50 ARC kit as I suspect Anthem is looking at the DSP board that comes with that due to the "hiss" issue some have had.
> 
> 
> You sure your dealer hasn't just forgotten to actually place the order?
> 
> --Bob



I sat and waited for 10 weeks while others got their ARC kits. There was always some excuse from my dealer. Turned out that Anthem had no record of the order. Even after 'resubmitting' it still sat on my dealer's shelf for 10 days before I got a call.


Bob's right - burning a few calibration files on disc and sending it on shouldn't take this long. Problem is - the ARC kit doesn't have the same profit margin as a new D2. Some dealers just don't seem that motivated to work.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14833969
> 
> 
> I run my Velodyne with the servo setting all the way up to 8 ("Musical") and would really miss it if I removed it from my music configuration.
> 
> 
> Anyway, to answer your ARC question, what's supposed to happen is that you simply tell ARC (during Measurement) that your Music configuration has just the LF and RF speakers -- no sub, no center, and no surrounds -- and ARC takes it from there. The Music speaker configuration that it uploads has no subwoofer so no bass is steered to the subwoofer during playback.
> 
> 
> HOWEVER, there is a bug in the V1.2.5 ARC software that causes it to screw up when you try a 2.0 configuration. The mistake is that it calculates the Room Correction results as if the front speakers had crossovers applied. Of course this makes no sense since there is no sub to cross over that bass to.
> 
> 
> Anthem is aware of the bug, and presumably a fix will show up in a later ARC release. For now, however, you have to use a workaround (info from Anthem):
> 
> 
> 1) Measure ARC for the Music configuration using a 2.1 setup -- i.e., let ARC include the subwoofer in its Measurements. ARC will assign crossovers to the front speakers.
> 
> 
> 2) In the Target's window, alter the crossover Target for your front speakers (Music configuration) all the way down -- e.g. 25Hz.
> 
> 
> 3) Accept that change of Targets, do a Calculation and Upload the results
> 
> 
> 4) Go into Setup / Speaker Configuration / Music and, without changing anything else, specify that you actually want it to use NO subwoofer.
> 
> 
> Don't forget to Save the results to User and/or Installer memories.
> 
> --Bob




Hello Bob,


I finally could proceed with these changes (i was waiting for a replacing tweeter for one of my main speakers and a new center).

In order to disable the sub for the Music profile I had to switch the Advanced settings to off. That was the only way to set the sub to none.

Is that right?

And by the way my stereo sound is now heavenly beautiful.

Thank you


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14928941
> 
> 
> Good grief, you still don't have your D2 ARC upgrade kit?
> 
> 
> It's a disc, a mic, a cable, a stand and a box. How hard can that be to make?
> 
> 
> It would be different if your dealer mistakenly ordered an AVM-50 ARC kit as I suspect Anthem is looking at the DSP board that comes with that due to the "hiss" issue some have had.
> 
> 
> You sure your dealer hasn't just forgotten to actually place the order?
> 
> --Bob



My dealer says he has at least 6 customers waiting since

August. He actually called me last Thursday because Anthem

called them to say two weeks instead of them calling Anthem.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/14931026
> 
> 
> I sat and waited for 10 weeks while others got their ARC kits.



Well I know Anthem has the order because about 3-4

weeks ago my dealer called because Anthem asked

them about my Serial number. It is a SPECIAL ONE










That question could only come from Anthem!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14931497
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> I finally could proceed with these changes (i was waiting for a replacing tweeter for one of my main speakers and a new center).
> 
> In order to disable the sub for the Music profile I had to switch the Advanced settings to off. That was the only way to set the sub to none.
> 
> Is that right?
> 
> And by the way my stereo sound is now heavenly beautiful.
> 
> Thank you



I haven't actually tried turning the sub off, but that makes sense. If you have no subwoofer in the configuration then the Advanced settings in Setup > Speaker Configuration are irrelevant.


So are you ready for some of these guys to show up?







































--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14931993
> 
> 
> Well I know Anthem has the order because about 3-4
> 
> weeks ago my dealer called because Anthem asked
> 
> them about my Serial number. It is a SPECIAL ONE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That question could only come from Anthem!



That must be it. Your SPECIAL serial number has screwed up their encryption scheme for the licensing file and they are holding up all the orders to your dealer until they can figure out a workaround for YOU!










--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14932282
> 
> 
> That must be it. Your SPECIAL serial number has screwed up their encryption scheme for the licensing file and they are holding up all the orders to your dealer until they can figure out a workaround for YOU!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I apologize to all the folks in the order queue who are

stuck behind my special serial Number


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14932368
> 
> 
> I apologize to all the folks in the order queue who are
> 
> stuck behind my special serial Number



Really Funny


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14932265
> 
> 
> I haven't actually tried turning the sub off, but that makes sense. If you have no subwoofer in the configuration then the Advanced settings in Setup > Speaker Configuration are irrelevant.
> 
> 
> So are you ready for some of these guys to show up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



You bet

I'm in heaven...la la la .... i'm in heaven.... la la la


(You should try without the sub, trust me. You know we both have a DD-18, so...)


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14932368
> 
> 
> I apologize to all the folks in the order queue who are
> 
> stuck behind my special serial Number



Okay I'll bite, what's so special about your serial number?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14935207
> 
> 
> Okay I'll bite, what's so special about your serial number?



I don't believe the serial number is special it is more the Drhankz that is a special case!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/14935207
> 
> 
> Okay I'll bite, what's so special about your serial number?



It is NOT Special like BOB Joked about.


But it is kind of special.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14935621
> 
> 
> I don't believe the serial number is special it is more the Drhankz that is a special case!



I wish I was special.


Thanks for the Complement.


The serial number is more special than me


----------



## Massimo N

Quick question,


If I feed a 7.1 PCM track over HDMI to the Anthem, will the AVM down-mix automatically, drop the rear channels or fail to play? I have a 5.1 setup and don't have anything to test.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The current Anthems only allow up to 5.1 HDMI LPCM input, so the issue doesn't come up. Set your source to down mix 7.1 content to 5.1 output. If you have a 7.1 speaker setup, use PLIIx for example to raise the 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output.


The upcoming v.2 Anthems do accept 7.1 input, and I assume they will provide automatic down mixing if you have less than 7.1 speakers, just as the current units do if you have less than 5.1 speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Massimo N

Thanx Bob for the response, but I still have a question.


I am planning on buying the Panasonic BD35 blu-ray player, and I'd connect it via HDMI and send PCM to the Anthem. There are no setting for down-mixing to 5.1 (at least that I could see in the manual).


Now if a disk is mastered in 7.1 (Dolby TrueHD or DTS HD HR) what will happen if this gets sent to the Anthem?


On Blu-ray, specifically on the disk, is there normally an option to select a 5.1 track or a 7.1 track?


Thanx,

Massimo


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Massimo N* /forum/post/14939704
> 
> 
> On Blu-ray, specifically on the disk, is there normally an option to select a 5.1 track or a 7.1 track?
> 
> 
> Massimo



Yes, but the disks 5.1 track option is not hi-res from what I have seen so far.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Massimo N* /forum/post/14939704
> 
> 
> Thanx Bob for the response, but I still have a question.
> 
> 
> I am planning on buying the Panasonic BD35 blu-ray player, and I'd connect it via HDMI and send PCM to the Anthem. There are no setting for down-mixing to 5.1 (at least that I could see in the manual).
> 
> 
> Now if a disk is mastered in 7.1 (Dolby TrueHD or DTS HD HR) what will happen if this gets sent to the Anthem?
> 
> 
> On Blu-ray, specifically on the disk, is there normally an option to select a 5.1 track or a 7.1 track?
> 
> 
> Thanx,
> 
> Massimo



First, the majority of the BD's only have 5.1 in the HD audio tracks, including TrueHD, etc.


Even when they are 7.1, the rears are usually the same as if you just matrixed them from 5.1 with a 7.1 system.


So... dropping the rears is no big deal.


The question is, does the D2 properly drop the rears with a 5.1 setup receiving a 7.1 LPCM track? Or does it get confused?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't know the details on that player. If it can decode TrueHD and DTS HD MA to 7.1 HDMI LPCM then it can almost certainly down mix as most folks do not have 7.1 speaker setups. It will find out automatically that the Anthem limits input to 5.1 during the HDMI handshake so there may be no setting you need to make. If the player can not decode then you will only be able to play the lossy 5.1 compatibility track, which the player will switch to automatically if you select a 7.1 track.

--Bob


----------



## Massimo N

Thanx everyone for the responses.


I really hope the player adjusts automatically based on the EDID data it finds.


My concern is that I noticed a while back that if you feed the Anthem a stream that is not compatible it gets really confused and starts to drop channels.


On DVDs when sending a 5.0 PCM track over HDMI as a 5.0 track, the Anthem would only play the Left and Right Front tracks and drop the remaining tracks. The Anthem only likes to see a 5.1 or 2.0 PCM input. This was unique to how my Toshiba HD30 sends the PCM, as it sends it as it see it. On my other DVD players, they output a 5.1 track with the .1 track muted.


I am fine with the Anthem just dropping the rear channels, but I'm still a little concerned that it will get confused and just play the L&R Front ... not down-mixed ... just the L&R front tracks.


I'm off to see if I can find a BD35 or BD55 locally and test myself. I'm probably better off with the BD55 ... just in case the Anthem gets confused. If I find one I'll test and report back. I'm leaning on the BD55 as it has the Analog outputs I could use as a back-up.


Thanx again everyone for your input.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Massimo N* /forum/post/14939704
> 
> 
> Thanx Bob for the response, but I still have a question.
> 
> 
> I am planning on buying the Panasonic BD35 blu-ray player, and I'd connect it via HDMI and send PCM to the Anthem. There are no setting for down-mixing to 5.1 (at least that I could see in the manual).
> 
> 
> Now if a disk is mastered in 7.1 (Dolby TrueHD or DTS HD HR) what will happen if this gets sent to the Anthem?
> 
> 
> On Blu-ray, specifically on the disk, is there normally an option to select a 5.1 track or a 7.1 track?
> 
> 
> Thanx,
> 
> Massimo



I got the bd55 a week ago and it seems to be working fine. I only have a few blu-ray discs, and I don't think any of them are 7.1, so I haven't tested it to see if it will automatically downmix the 7.1 to 5.1. I only set the hdmi audio out to pcm (not bitstream) and I'm getting 5.1 audio fed into the D2 at 48khz pcm, which is, I believe, h-rez audio.

I would like to test it for 7.1 though.

What blu-ray discs are recorded in 7.1?

If there is a movie I want to buy or rent I'll test it out and let you know.

Tom


----------



## Massimo N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14941499
> 
> 
> I got the bd55 a week ago and it seems to be working fine. I only have a few blu-ray discs, and I don't think any of them are 7.1, so I haven't tested it to see if it will automatically downmix the 7.1 to 5.1. I only set the hdmi audio out to pcm (not bitstream) and I'm getting 5.1 audio fed into the D2 at 48khz pcm, which is, I believe, h-rez audio.
> 
> I would like to test it for 7.1 though.
> 
> What blu-ray discs are recorded in 7.1?
> 
> If there is a movie I want to buy or rent I'll test it out and let you know.
> 
> Tom



Thanx for the offer Tom. I actually found a BD35 in town and it was even on sale










I picked up Sleeping Beauty which has DTS HD MA 7.1 on it and it is sending a 5.1PCM stream and the player is saying it is playing DTS HD MA multi ... and it sounds great










Hopefully I'm getting the full lossless track and not just the DTS core.


It's a very nice player BTW and is fairly fast.


Thank you again everyone for your help.


Massimo


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Massimo N* /forum/post/14942425
> 
> 
> Thanx for the offer Tom. I actually found a BD35 in town and it was even on sale
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I picked up Sleeping Beauty which has DTS HD MA 7.1 on it and it is sending a 5.1PCM stream and the player is saying it is playing DTS HD MA multi ... and it sounds great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully I'm getting the full lossless track and not just the DTS core.
> 
> 
> It's a very nice player BTW and is fairly fast.
> 
> 
> Thank you again everyone for your help.
> 
> 
> Massimo



Thats good to know. I think I'll buy Sleeping Beauty tomorrow and check it out.

As you probably know, you can check the audio input coming into the D2 by repeatedly pushing the 'select' button on the Anthem remote. If you are getting the hi-rez audio it should say '48khz'. If you are only getting the standard dolby or dts 5.1 sound track it will read '448kbps'.

The panasonic manual wasn't as helpful as some. You probably know this, but it was mentioned by the reviewer in S&V, and it helped me in my set-up of the bd55. In set-up in the 'audio', click on the 'digital audio output'. Make sure the dolby and dts are set to pcm and that the 'bd-video secondary audio' is set to 'off'. If the 'secondary audio' is turned 'on' it will output the core dolby and dts tracks.

Also, under the 'tv/device connection' section, in the 'hdmi connection' area I set the hdmi resolution to 1080p and the '24p output' to 'on'. Even though my tv only accepts 1080i/60, it seemed to improve the picture considerably. It must send a better picture to the D2 for it to convert to my tv's resolution.

Enjoy your new toy,

Tom


----------



## ditcin

I have the BD55 and I don't think I'm even getting DTS Master Audio on my D2 via HDMI

on my BOND films, just regular 5.1. Is there a way to know? The Anthem is stating that audio input is at 1536kbps np, but the output is 24/192khz

- Scott


----------



## yacht422

walt here: question about arc. does it utilize 1/3 octave smoothing(or any smoothing; if so, what?)

thank you

walt

also- -is there any way to generate a file that is "only" in the 20-300Hz in range?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14944593
> 
> 
> I have the BD55 and I don't think I'm even getting DTS Master Audio on my D2 via HDMI
> 
> on my BOND films, just regular 5.1. Is there a way to know? The Anthem is stating that audio input is at 1536kbps np, but the output is 24/192khz
> 
> - Scott


*Make sure that the 'bd video secondary audio' is set to 'off'.*

If it is set to 'on' it will send out the regular dvd quality dolby and dts 5.1 instead of the Dolby-HD or DTS-MA.

You should be getting a '48khz np' readout on the D2 from the hi-rez audio formats. No matter what audio is fed into the D2 it will output at 24/192 (except analog direct).

Tom


----------



## Roger Dressler

On a player with 7.1 analog outputs, the setup menu offers the choice of speaker output configuration. Then the player knows whether to output a 7.1 soundtrack as 7.1, 5.1, or stereo. You do not have to select a downmix mode, since in the case of compressed codecs, they internally support different presentation options. For example, a 7.1 TrueHD track also includes a 5.1 mix and a 2-ch mix. The player does not have to fully decode then downmix, which is DSP intensive, and leaves the downmix parameters open to change.


When you connect the player via HDMI, it reads the channel configurations from the downstream device, and sends the appropriate channel config. That's the theory anyway!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14944593
> 
> 
> The Anthem is stating that audio input is at 1536kbps
> 
> - Scott



That tells ALL.


You ARE GETTING ONLY OLD CORE.


NOT LOSSLESS Audio.


----------



## Massimo N

With the BD35, playing Sleeping Beauty's DTS HD MA 7.1 track the Anthem is reporting a 5.1 PCM input with a signal of 48kHz.


I guess I'm getting the original full track


----------



## ditcin

Yes, I get the 48khz with PCM too - but it's only 5.1 and not 7.1

- Scott


----------



## Ed Weinman

I am going to ask this question here because I have had no luck with the Pioneer 05 Blu-ray discussion tread re: how do I find out what Pioneer 05 player version I have? I have the D1 and would like to know what version I'm dealing with via the 05.


Thanks, in advance.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/14947336
> 
> 
> I am going to ask this question here because I have had no luck with the Pioneer 05 Blu-ray discussion tread re: how do I find out what Pioneer 05 player version I have? I have the D1 and would like to know what version I'm dealing with via the 05.
> 
> 
> Thanks, in advance.



Go to the setup menu for video format and when 16:9 is highlighted, hit the blue button.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/14946423
> 
> 
> Yes, I get the 48khz with PCM too - but it's only 5.1 and not 7.1
> 
> - Scott



This is correct. The current D2 and AVM-50 are limited to 5.1 input which they can then raise to 7.1 speaker output.


The player should be mixing the rear surrounds of the 7.1 track into the side surrounds for 5.1 output (as a standard part of the decoding math).


-----------------------


The v.2 units will allow input of 7.1 HDMI LPCM.

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman

Kal,


Thank you very much.


----------



## davidhoenig

Anyone else think it's ridiculous that a thread with over 16,000 posts and is constantly active can't get stickied, but a Denon AVR thread with only about 7k posts does?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We talked about this before (last year if you can believe that!). A sticky keeps the thread visible, but this thread gets bumped often enough on its own. It's not like anyone is having trouble finding it.


And the downside is a sticky tends to draw more off-topic posts, not to mention attacks (a la why is that Denon thread a sticky







).


The cool kids are finding their way here, so no problems, really.


Personally, I think you need a sticky when you are trying to keep 1000 repetitive threads from being newly created on any single topic, or when you are trying to keep the same newbie questions from showing up in 1000 existing threads that are each supposed to be concentrating on something else.


We do have good, general purpose reference material in here, but nothing that isn't already pretty well covered in places like the video calibration forum.


I say no sticky.


Anyway we still have the secret handshake, right?

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/14954111
> 
> 
> Anyone else think it's ridiculous that a thread with over 16,000 posts and is constantly active can't get stickied, but a Denon AVR thread with only about 7k posts does?



Same reason you can buy Denon in Circuit City but not Anthem.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/14954111
> 
> 
> Anyone else think it's ridiculous that a thread with over 16,000 posts and is constantly active can't get stickied, but a Denon AVR thread with only about 7k posts does?



AVS owners can sell Denon equipment, but not Anthem. AVS sellers did contact Anthem to be able to sell their products via internet, but Anthem didn't want to.


----------



## xtrips

Hello Bob,


I thought I might ask you in private but than again I thought somebody else could make use of your answer. So here it is.

We both have a D2 and a DD-18, right?

So I was wondering that since you have been using both for a while now, you probably have come to conclusions about the best way to combine the pair.

I would like to know what you think is best:

- neutralizing the DD eq, self-eq and alike and only use the ARC for all the corrections?

- first run the DD-18 self eq, in automatic or manual mode, than have the ARC correct what is left?

- or something else alltogether?


Thank you


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/14957234
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> I thought I might ask you in private but than again I thought somebody else could make use of your answer. So here it is.
> 
> We both have a D2 and a DD-18, right?
> 
> So I was wondering that since you have been using both for a while now, you probably have come to conclusions about the best way to combine the pair.
> 
> I would like to know what you think is best:
> 
> - neutralizing the DD eq, self-eq and alike and only use the ARC for all the corrections?
> 
> - first run the DD-18 self eq, in automatic or manual mode, than have the ARC correct what is left?
> 
> - or something else alltogether?
> 
> 
> Thank you



Actually I have a Velodyne DD-15, but no matter.


Early on I decided the best result was achieved by disabling the parametric filter EQ stuff in the DD-15 and letting ARC do all the work.


Now, there have been quite a few improvements in ARC since then, and I haven't retested, but if it aint broke, don't fix it! In my case, the results ARC is getting (with ARC doing all the work) are as good as I could hope for down in the bass region. I've also measured with the DD-15 mic and the results are as good as I was able to achieve manually prior to ARC once you realize that you need to use a "compromise" set of EQ settings in the Velodyne that are not utterly flat at any one mic position but are very close to flat at a SET of separated mic positions.


50 HZ was particularly troublesome in my listening room -- varying significantly at Velodyne mic positions just a few feet apart (as along the length of a sofa). With the Velodyne stuff it is dead easy to get a completely flat result at any one mic position but quite hard to come up with a good compromise set of settings that works well at multiple mic positions. I wrote up my struggle with that back when I was doing it -- I think at least one of those posts is in the collected links in the first post here -- but the key thing is that it took the better part of a month of listening to the same stuff over and over again. Very dull work.


Oh, and the AUTOMATED EQ setup in the Velodyne didn't even come close to what I could achieve manually. That's because the automated stuff leaves the parametric filters at fixed frequency settings (and doesn't play with the crossovers) whereas manually you can move the filters to the frequencies that need the most help.


Meanwhile, with ARC it was pretty much of a snap to accomplish all of that AUTOMATICALLY. I've done re-measurements with ARC of course, but nothing like the struggle I had with the Velodyne stuff.


And ARC alone is way better than the best I was able to achieve manually with the Velodyne alone!


--------------------------------------------


If ARC was having trouble solving my bass problems then I would probably see if the Velodyne could help. Perhaps a setup that flattens the Velodyne just for ARC mic position #1 and letting ARC take care of the rest. Based on my past experiments with the Velodyne, I would do that manually in the Velodyne EQ -- not relying on their automated EQ setup.


But I don't need to. In my room ARC is able to handle all of it without needing any assist from the Velodyne EQ, and that's the way I've been using it for months now.


---------------------------------------------


As I've mentioned before, I also like to set the servo in the DD-15 to the maximum value (8 = "Musical"), and of course you have to disable the internal crossover in the Velodyne and get its volume set up correctly.


I've never found any good reason to use the alternate presets in the DD-15 ("Jazz", etc.). I just use the one preset that disables the EQ in the Velodyne.


----------------------------------------------


If you are going to use EQ in the Velodyne, you should set it up FIRST (no ARC) and then run the ARC setup. In my opinion.


There are people here who have reported good results setting up ARC first and then tweaking with their separate sub EQ system, but I think that is fraught with difficulty. What ARC does is *NOT* just another parametric EQ filter collection. It is doing some pretty subtle stuff as Kal found out. Layering a parametric EQ on top of that AFTER ARC is set up will, I suspect, screw up some of the results ARC has calculated which don't readily show up in just the frequency response curves.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/14956048
> 
> 
> AVS owners can sell Denon equipment, but not Anthem. AVS sellers did contact Anthem to be able to sell their products via internet, but Anthem didn't want to.



AVS is a physical storefront, not an internet storefront. Big difference.


As far as I know, they aren't allowed to sell Denon outside their dealer area, which is around 250 miles?


PS.. I agree with Bob P.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14957383
> 
> 
> Actually I have a Velodyne DD-15, but no matter.
> 
> 
> Early on I decided the best result was achieved by disabling the parametric filter EQ stuff in the DD-15 and letting ARC do all the work.
> 
> 
> Now, there have been quite a few improvements in ARC since then, and I haven't retested, but if it aint broke, don't fix it! In my case, the results ARC is getting (with ARC doing all the work) are as good as I could hope for down in the bass region. I've also measured with the DD-15 mic and the results are as good as I was able to achieve manually prior to ARC once you realize that you need to use a "compromise" set of EQ settings in the Velodyne that are not utterly flat at any one mic position but are very close to flat at a SET of separated mic positions.
> 
> 
> 50 HZ was particularly troublesome in my listening room -- varying significantly at Velodyne mic positions just a few feet apart (as along the length of a sofa). With the Velodyne stuff it is dead easy to get a completely flat result at any one mic position but quite hard to come up with a good compromise set of settings that works well at multiple mic positions. I wrote up my struggle with that back when I was doing it -- I think at least one of those posts is in the collected links in the first post here -- but the key thing is that it took the better part of a month of listening to the same stuff over and over again. Very dull work.
> 
> 
> Oh, and the AUTOMATED EQ setup in the Velodyne didn't even come close to what I could achieve manually. That's because the automated stuff leaves the parametric filters at fixed frequency settings (and doesn't play with the crossovers) whereas manually you can move the filters to the frequencies that need the most help.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, with ARC it was pretty much of a snap to accomplish all of that AUTOMATICALLY. I've done re-measurements with ARC of course, but nothing like the struggle I had with the Velodyne stuff.
> 
> 
> And ARC alone is way better than the best I was able to achieve manually with the Velodyne alone!
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If ARC was having trouble solving my bass problems then I would probably see if the Velodyne could help. Perhaps a setup that flattens the Velodyne just for ARC mic position #1 and letting ARC take care of the rest. Based on my past experiments with the Velodyne, I would do that manually in the Velodyne EQ -- not relying on their automated EQ setup.
> 
> 
> But I don't need to. In my room ARC is able to handle all of it without needing any assist from the Velodyne EQ, and that's the way I've been using it for months now.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> As I've mentioned before, I also like to set the servo in the DD-15 to the maximum value (8 = "Musical"), and of course you have to disable the internal crossover in the Velodyne and get its volume set up correctly.
> 
> 
> I've never found any good reason to use the alternate presets in the DD-15 ("Jazz", etc.). I just use the one preset that disables the EQ in the Velodyne.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you are going to use EQ in the Velodyne, you should set it up FIRST (no ARC) and then run the ARC setup. In my opinion.
> 
> 
> There are people here who have reported good results setting up ARC first and then tweaking with their separate sub EQ system, but I think that is fraught with difficulty. What ARC does is *NOT* just another parametric EQ filter collection. It is doing some pretty subtle stuff as Kal found out. Layering a parametric EQ on top of that AFTER ARC is set up will, I suspect, screw up some of the results ARC has calculated which don't readily show up in just the frequency response curves.
> 
> --Bob



This is exactly the way i am using it too. And now I read you i will stick with that.

The reason I was asking was because i have serious boominess around

42hZ (see graph). But that's because my room have serious problems with mods.

No luck...


----------



## benleeys

Bob,

I fully agree with what you're saying. I was using the SMS-1 with my MLogan Descent-i before ARC came along. When it did, I tried using it with the SMS-1 active, but did'nt find it quite satisfactory, so now it is just another metal box on the shelf.

Ben


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/14954111
> 
> 
> Anyone else think it's ridiculous that a thread with over 16,000 posts and is constantly active can't get stickied, but a Denon AVR thread with only about 7k posts does?



Wath can I say!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14955018
> 
> 
> We talked about this before (last year if you can believe that!). A sticky keeps the thread visible, but this thread gets bumped often enough on its own. It's not like anyone is having trouble finding it.
> 
> 
> And the downside is a sticky tends to draw more off-topic posts, not to mention attacks (a la why is that Denon thread a sticky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> The cool kids are finding their way here, so no problems, really.
> 
> 
> Personally, I think you need a sticky when you are trying to keep 1000 repetitive threads from being newly created on any single topic, or when you are trying to keep the same newbie questions from showing up in 1000 existing threads that are each supposed to be concentrating on something else.
> 
> 
> We do have good, general purpose reference material in here, but nothing that isn't already pretty well covered in places like the video calibration forum.
> 
> 
> I say no sticky.
> 
> 
> Anyway we still have the secret handshake, right?
> 
> --Bob



Do I qualify as a cool kid?


----------



## Tolstoi

Serious stuff now.


The Pioneer 05FD and the Anthem D2 are playing really well together. Firm and solid connection. The image quality is just amazing. The next step is to get DTS MA support. I am not sure from where I will get it first. The 05FD firmarwae upgrade that will turn in the feature is scheduled for december/january time frame. Or through the D2V2 that will show up at some point.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Keep in mind that this thread began in March of '06, whereas that thread began only in March of this year. The Denon and in particular the Onkyo threads will probably always be more active than this thread (rate of posts per day). The Anthem is still a fairly esoteric product if not exactly exotic.


If it were up to me (and thank God it isn't) I probably wouldn't have put the Denon up as a sticky simply because it doesn't meet my criteria. I.e., there weren't a ton of new threads being created because folks couldn't FIND that thread, and other existing threads aren't being polluted by posts better suited to that one thread.


Again, I don't think it is in our best interest to have this thread become a sticky. But I don't really feel strongly about it one way or the other so I'm going to drop it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14957938
> 
> 
> Do I qualify as a cool kid?



Of course! And trendy, funky, with it, hip, big, happening, groovy, phat, kicky, and fly, to boot!


--Bob (break out the bongoes!) P.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/14957802
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I fully agree with what you're saying. I was using the SMS-1 with my MLogan Descent-i before ARC came along. When it did, I tried using it with the SMS-1 active, but did'nt find it quite satisfactory, so now it is just another metal box on the shelf.
> 
> Ben



Hey Ben,


I had the SMS controlling two ML Depths - have since sold it on Audiogon for some good $$$ - you should consider it. ARC is here to stay and will only get better! 

Use the money to buy some new gear!


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/14960296
> 
> 
> Hey Ben,
> 
> 
> I had the SMS controlling two ML Depths - have since sold it on Audiogon for some good $$$ - you should consider it. ARC is here to stay and will only get better!
> 
> Use the money to buy some new gear!



Hmmm ... good idea. Maybe I should, together with a host of other units presently decorating my sheves like AV processors, preamps, turntables and speakers of yesteryear, all hibernating in their original packings.









Ben


----------



## drhankz

I just checked with my Anthem Dealer about the Status of my ARC upgrade.


While I was on the phone he called Anthem Directly.


Anthem SAID - the Microphones just arrived - a NEW BATCH - and ARC

kits should start to go out shortly. Anthem said there are 63 customers

- like me waiting










So to all the other 62 Customers - you should be getting yours soon


----------



## Tolstoi

drhankz!


Are sure you want to use the ARC. The measurement will highlight the lack of base in your setup































You may not be ready for such a shock


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14966858
> 
> 
> drhankz!
> 
> 
> Are sure you want to use the ARC. The measurement will highlight the lack of base in your setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may not be ready for such a shock



I just got a call - I can pick up my ARC in 30 Minutes.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14966908
> 
> 
> I just got a call - I can pick up my ARC in 30 Minutes.



Ah! Time for me to take a vacation then!










--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Guys, I know this doesn't pertain to the Anthem, however, I know a number of you are using the PS3 as a Blu-ray as I am. I am running a Panasonic PZ700 plasma and was wondering what video output settings the PS3 should be set at. In particular, there are the following settings I'm unsure about:


1. Cross color reduction filter, on or off; (currently off)

2. RGB Full range (HDMI), limited or full; (currently limited)

3. Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super white (HDMI), on or off. (currently off)


Any other of the PS3 settings that I should be aware of to take full potential of the PS3's capabilities with my system would be appreciated. (I am running the AVM50 with a 7.1 setup).


Thanks,


----------



## Milt99

BlueMark,

Go to the PS3 sticky FAQ on the BluRay player forum.

All of your questions and more will be answered there.


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/14941499
> 
> 
> I got the bd55 a week ago and it seems to be working fine. I only have a few blu-ray discs, and I don't think any of them are 7.1, so I haven't tested it to see if it will automatically downmix the 7.1 to 5.1. I only set the hdmi audio out to pcm (not bitstream) and I'm getting 5.1 audio fed into the D2 at 48khz pcm, which is, I believe, h-rez audio.
> 
> I would like to test it for 7.1 though.
> 
> What blu-ray discs are recorded in 7.1?
> 
> If there is a movie I want to buy or rent I'll test it out and let you know.
> 
> Tom



I believe there is only 1 decent movie that is LPCM 7.1 and that is "3:10 to Yuma" . There are quite a few that are DTS-MA 7.1. I have found this website very informative: www.blu-raystats.com/index


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14968149
> 
> 
> Ah! Time for me to take a vacation then!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



OH NO - Time for you to HELP the OLD MAN figure this new stuff out


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14966908
> 
> 
> I just got a call - I can pick up my ARC in 30 Minutes.



Cool!


Please post your graph so we can see this powerful sub-bass setup.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14971061
> 
> 
> Cool!
> 
> 
> Please post your graph so we can see this powerful sub-bass setup.



Post My Graph??????


That assumes I'm capable of loading the software!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14971038
> 
> 
> OH NO - Time for you to HELP the OLD MAN figure this new stuff out



It is quite easy to use. Just make sure to adjust with your sound meter the Noise Level Setting in D2 Speaker Calibration Menu to get 75db at your main listening position.


Ensure that the first measurement is done at your main listening position and the 4 others at least 24 inches from each other.


Finally ensure you hit auto in the target menu before doing anything else.


All the rest is straightforward.


Now have fun and I am anxious to get your feedback on this.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14971102
> 
> 
> It is quite easy to use. Just make sure to adjust with your sound meter the Noise Level Setting in D2 Speaker Calibration Menu to get 75db at your main listening position.
> 
> 
> Ensure that the first measurement is done at your main listening position and the 4 others at least 24 inches from each other.
> 
> 
> Finally ensure you hit auto in the target menu before doing anything else.
> 
> 
> All the rest is straightforward.
> 
> 
> Now have fun and I am anxious to get your feedback on this.



Ya --- BUT ---- None of this stuff will WORK with my FW 1.11.


First I need to LOCKUP my D2 doing a FW Upgrade


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14971131
> 
> 
> Ya --- BUT ---- None of this stuff will WORK with my FW 1.11.
> 
> 
> First I need to LOCKUP my D2 doing a FW Upgrade



Your are still at firmware 1.11
























I know you like stability but your are pushing it.


Of course it will not work.


Time to upgrade to 1.33!


Check your email.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14971672
> 
> 
> Your are still at firmware 1.11
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know you like stability but your are pushing it.
> 
> 
> Of course it will not work.
> 
> 
> Time to upgrade to 1.33!
> 
> 
> Check your email.



1.33 came with the ARC kit.


The install went fine with no problems.


----------



## bluemark81

Anyone have any issues switching between sources? In particular, with mine, when I switch from my PS3 to my satellite. I will get audio, but a lot of the time, I don't get video. When this happens I have to turn the Anthem off, then back on to get the video signal.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14969015
> 
> 
> Guys, I know this doesn't pertain to the Anthem, however, I know a number of you are using the PS3 as a Blu-ray as I am. I am running a Panasonic PZ700 plasma and was wondering what video output settings the PS3 should be set at. In particular, there are the following settings I'm unsure about:
> 
> 
> 1. Cross color reduction filter, on or off; (currently off)
> 
> 2. RGB Full range (HDMI), limited or full; (currently limited)
> 
> 3. Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super white (HDMI), on or off. (currently off)
> 
> 
> Any other of the PS3 settings that I should be aware of to take full potential of the PS3's capabilities with my system would be appreciated. (I am running the AVM50 with a 7.1 setup).
> 
> 
> Thanks,



I use on my ps3 and BenQ W5000, through my AVM 50, the following.

1.off

2.RGB limited

3.on

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14974545
> 
> 
> Anyone have any issues switching between sources? In particular, with mine, when I switch from my PS3 to my satellite. I will get audio, but a lot of the time, I don't get video. When this happens I have to turn the Anthem off, then back on to get the video signal.



I had that happen once in a big while with FW 1.11.


I just went to FW 1.33 today - we'll see if It happens.


In my case it was only related to the PS3. Never happened

with other sources.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/14975048
> 
> 
> I had that happen once in a big while with FW 1.11.
> 
> 
> I just went to FW 1.33 today - we'll see if It happens.
> 
> 
> In my case it was only related to the PS3. Never happened
> 
> with other sources.



I have been running 1.33 for some time now with the issue occuring. From from what I've noticed, it only occurs with the PS3.


I also still have this very annoying ear piercing screach that occurs before the audio track kicks in on the PS3. This has only occured since having ARC installed. Anthem has been aware of it for quite some time and it is the first issue I've had that they are not acting on immediately although they say they have reproduced it at their end.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/14975923
> 
> 
> I have been running 1.33 for some time now with the issue occuring. From from what I've noticed, it only occurs with the PS3.
> 
> 
> I also still have this very annoying ear piercing screach that occurs before the audio track kicks in on the PS3. This has only occured since having ARC installed. Anthem has been aware of it for quite some time and it is the first issue I've had that they are not acting on immediately although they say they have reproduced it at their end.



I'm a NEWBIE to FW 1.33 and ARC.


So far so good but I don't have that much time on THIS configuration.


----------



## gdc

I was wondering what kinds of media adapters people are using with their D2/AVM-50?


I am planning on getting a digital media adapter to play media from a central Netowrk Attached Storage (NAS) server. I know someone posted on the ReadyNAS which looks quite good.


One thing I've noticed about media adapters (or streamers) is they seem to do deinterlacing and processing themselves - expecting to be connected to a TV. For instance, I haven't been able to find good support for sending out native resolution (e.g. 480i for one media file, 720p for the next).


Of course, we who buy a D2/AVM-50 want to do all the processing in the Anthem world.


Any experiences and suggestions? I am really looking for devices that use a NAS as their storage instead of having a big HDD inside.


----------



## budeone

My avm-50 just stopped working. I have sound but zero pic. I tried different HDMI cables. I get pic when I hook up dvd direct to tv.


None of my inputs from vcr sat blu hd-dvd or cable gives me any pic.


I cant even get anthem menu on the screen. I have tried unplugging unit and turning back on.. still nothing.


Any ideas?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/14983873
> 
> 
> My avm-50 just stopped working. I have sound but zero pic. I tried different HDMI cables. I get pic when I hook up dvd direct to tv.
> 
> 
> None of my inputs from vcr sat blu hd-dvd or cable gives me any pic.
> 
> 
> I cant even get anthem menu on the screen. I have tried unplugging unit and turning back on.. still nothing.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



I'd be contacting Anthem asap. Sometimes my video doesn't come on when I first turn it on and I have to power off and on again to reboot things, but it eventually will come on.


----------



## jkmw

I am not an electrical engineer, (Certainly not limiting responses to EEs only!) and need to know if what I have done to my D2 will have left a scar......


Well, I didn't do it directly to my D2 or any of my equipment for that matter but here's the story. Setting up for Halloween, I pulled out my copy of spooky music and sound effects to play on my zone two Boston Acoustics outdoor speakers. It was working superbly. (just in front of the outdoor spkrs I hung my animatronics 6' white gauze ghoul with red LED eyes, all lit up by black lights. A little over the top for the less than 3 y/o crowd but my teenage daughter loved it as did her 5 friends who used our house as a staging post).


In addition, I have a Van de Graaff generator set up at the front door to demonstrate my re-animation techniques; only for the stout of heart.


Having tested the set up ahead of time, everything worked great, individually. Trying to run the D2 and the static charge generator together was a NO-GO however. Last night, with the generator already on, the D2 simply would not complete the start up routine. It would power up and immediately power off. I was unable to ascertain the cause of the D2 annomaly last night, (and so no spooky music), but this morning I had the D2 running some mood music and flipped the static charge generator on to show a friend who stopped by to pick up his daughter after the sleep over. THUMP, (what was THAT???), and Thump again, and again. I shut off the generator, said good by to my friend and investigated. Sure enough, the D2 was cutting in and out but only while the generator was on.


I'm not testing it ANYmore. I know the cause of the D2 mis-start was related to the static field created by the generator, but why wouldn't the D2 start? and why does it cut in and out when I turn the generator on? The generator and the D2 are separated by at least 35 feet. One of the french doors to the theater was always open but the two items are in separate rooms. Admittedly, the genterator is one of the large models producing between 240k to 400k volts, and I run it turned up High! (BEWARE, don't get too close! Even with a grounding electrode placed close to the generator to aid in the production of small lightning bolts, it'll jump to anything that ventures within the attack zone.)


Is there some sort of protective cicuitry in the D2 or am I killing it slowly? or BOTH







To restart the D2, I have to flip the switch in the rear and wait a while. When it restarts, all SEEMS fine.


mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/14983873
> 
> 
> My avm-50 just stopped working. I have sound but zero pic. I tried different HDMI cables. I get pic when I hook up dvd direct to tv.
> 
> 
> None of my inputs from vcr sat blu hd-dvd or cable gives me any pic.
> 
> 
> I cant even get anthem menu on the screen. I have tried unplugging unit and turning back on.. still nothing.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



Make sure you have a good set of Saved User and/or Installer Settings and then do a Reload Factory Defaults. Use the Front Panel display for this. Now power cycle the Anthem using the remote and also using the back panel power switch.


If you don't have video after the Reload Factory Defaults and power cycle, use the Front Panel to go into the Setup > Video Output configuration and manually adjust the entries in there for your display. Try 480p output resolution (not 480i) as that is the simplest output resolution for both the Anthem and your display.


If you have both HDMI and Component cables connected, try video from both of them to your display. Make sure you have your display set to select the correct cable input.


Select an input on the Anthem that has nothing connected to it, and see if you can get any of the Anthem's on-screen displays to come up (volume adjustment and so forth). If so, use the Video Source Adjust / Patterns menu to verify that you can get clean video from the Anthem's internally generated patterns. If you discover you can get that stuff but not the Setup menu then the problem is in the S-video path inside the Anthem. (The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source.)


Hook up your computer and reload the V1.33 firmware. Don't skip any steps. Make sure you Reload Factory Defaults before doing the firmware install and that you don't have any powered HDMI connections during the firmware install. After the firmware install, do another Reload Factory Defaults (do *NOT* load your saved settings yet), and test again to see if you can get video from the Anthem's internally generated on-screen displays at 480p resolution.


If you still don't have video after the firmware install, power off and disconnect everything from the the Anthem -- you are going to have to do this anyway to get it serviced. If possible, take the Anthem to a different TV. Take a flashlight and carefully check the HDMI sockets on the Anthem for any sign of pin damage. Also check the ends of the HDMI cables you are using. If you find damaged sockets, *STOP HERE* as plugging a new cable in may just damage the end of the new cable.


Connect up ONLY power and either an HDMI cable or a set of Component cables to the TV (preferably a different TV) and see if you can get video now using the Anthem's internally generated on-screen displays. If possible use a fresh cable. The idea here is to completely eliminate anything strange going on inside your TV and also any possibility that there is a shorted cable connected to the Anthem that might be screwing up its video output. If you get video then we can isolate what's going wrong in your normal setup. If you don't get video then your Anthem definitely needs service.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkmw* /forum/post/14985572
> 
> 
> Is there some sort of protective cicuitry in the D2 or am I killing it slowly? or BOTH
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To restart the D2, I have to flip the switch in the rear and wait a while. When it restarts, all SEEMS fine.



Odds are your Van de Graaff generator was putting enough load on the power circuit that the D2 saw low wall voltage. You may have also induced a significant ground loop via some of the cables attached to the D2.


Low voltage is not going to cause damage (the D2 will just shut down), but a big enough ground loop might cause damage.


If the D2 appears to be working fine with the generator turned off, then you are probably OK.

--Bob


----------



## jkmw

Hmmm, D2 is plugged into one of several dedicated A\\V circuits and house has 400amp service. I am certainly not disagreeing with you, just after the critter.


Re: the ground loop, are you suggesting the static field could have caused a ground loop in the interconnects, that is, between the outer shield and the D2 case? When I built the equipment alcove, I should have built it as a Faraday Cage.


Thank you for your reply. I guess it's rather a mute point now, I'm not going to try that again, and it sounds like from what you say I'll never really know if any permanent damage was done....maybe Anthem can tell me when they make me my D2v2










mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The fact that it wouldn't power up when the generator was active is pretty good evidence that the power supply rejected the input voltage. Since the voltage was almost certainly low (vs. high) the odds you did any damage are minimal.


I suppose it's possible the generator put enough garbage on the line that the D2 rejected the input FREQUENCY.


And yes, I was thinking the generator (which is a radio transmitter of course) may have induced power on the cable shields that caused the D2 to go into some sort of protect mode. But that's not likely to have happened during the power up sequence so this scenario is less likely than that the input power itself was corrupted.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/14982380
> 
> 
> I was wondering what kinds of media adapters people are using with their D2/AVM-50?
> 
> 
> I am planning on getting a digital media adapter to play media from a central Netowrk Attached Storage (NAS) server. I know someone posted on the ReadyNAS which looks quite good.
> 
> 
> One thing I've noticed about media adapters (or streamers) is they seem to do deinterlacing and processing themselves - expecting to be connected to a TV. For instance, I haven't been able to find good support for sending out native resolution (e.g. 480i for one media file, 720p for the next).
> 
> 
> Of course, we who buy a D2/AVM-50 want to do all the processing in the Anthem world.
> 
> 
> Any experiences and suggestions? I am really looking for devices that use a NAS as their storage instead of having a big HDD inside.



Check out the Popcorn Hour. Low cost and handles most of the video codecs.

I have had good luck streaming from a HP Media Smart Home Network Server or my desktop via wired network with HD video. You can use it with or without a built in HDD. They update it regularly via internet or via plugin USB drive. You can select output 480i,

720p,1080i,1080p and others. I have not tried low loss audio formats yet. It also has built in torrent software. Check it out on AVS thread.


----------



## inkidar

Hello to all:

I have a D2 with the latest software that is hooked up to a Pioneer Elite PR0 1540HD and an Elite Pioneer Blu-ray player BDP05FD also with the latest software via new high speed HDMI cables.

When I set the video out on the D2 to 1080p24 (which the PRO1540HD claims to accept) the video performance on a blu-ray DVD seems to be jittery, dragging and weird acting when showing high action scenes. When it is set to 1080i, this does not happen.

Any recommendations or insights would be highly appreciated. Thank you..


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/14989081
> 
> 
> Check out the Popcorn Hour. Low cost and handles most of the video codecs.
> 
> I have had good luck streaming from a HP Media Smart Home Network Server or my desktop via wired network with HD video. You can use it with or without a built in HDD. They update it regularly via internet or via plugin USB drive. You can select output 480i,
> 
> 720p,1080i,1080p and others. I have not tried low loss audio formats yet. It also has built in torrent software. Check it out on AVS thread.



Last I checked, it can't play SD or BD ISO's though... HTPC is still the way to go for HD content.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14957981
> 
> 
> Serious stuff now.
> 
> 
> The Pioneer 05FD and the Anthem D2 are playing really well together. Firm and solid connection. The image quality is just amazing. The next step is to get DTS MA support. I am not sure from where I will get it first. The 05FD firmarwae upgrade that will turn in the feature is scheduled for december/january time frame. Or through the D2V2 that will show up at some point.



The way things are going, the 1.2 FW with internal DTS-HDMA decoding for our 05D's will be released one or two days before we decide to send our D2's to Anthem for the v. 2 upgrades!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *inkidar* /forum/post/14989381
> 
> 
> Hello to all:
> 
> I have a D2 with the latest software that is hooked up to a Pioneer Elite PR0 1540HD and an Elite Pioneer Blu-ray player BDP05FD also with the latest software via new high speed HDMI cables.
> 
> When I set the video out on the D2 to 1080p24 (which the PRO1540HD claims to accept) the video performance on a blu-ray DVD seems to be jittery, dragging and weird acting when showing high action scenes. When it is set to 1080i, this does not happen.
> 
> Any recommendations or insights would be highly appreciated. Thank you..



I know from other threads that there is a setting, or perhaps a combo of settings, in the Pioneer plasma that have the unexpected effect of disabling its ability to handle 1080p/24 input properly, but I don't recall which settings these are. Check in the appropriate thread in the plasma forum here, or perhaps someone who owns that plasma in this thread will chime in. However I believe the result of such improper setting is that the display won't accept /24 input at all rather than accepting it and displaying it with stutters.


The other thing to keep in mind is that some Blu-Ray discs -- most commonly the "live concert" style discs -- are not recorded as 1080p/24. They are 1080i/60. If you force 1080p/24 output for those you will always get the stutters as there is no good way to convert true video rate content (/60) to film rate (/24). To avoid this you either need to set up two Video Output configurations in the D2 (one for /60 output and one for /24 output) and select the proper one on the fly, or you need to use the D2's "Frame Lock" feature found in Video Source Adjust > Output for each input source device. Frame Lock = Auto will switch the D2 output from 1080p/60 to 1080p/24 as appropriate to match the current input frame rate.


Finally, you need to make sure you have your Blu-Ray player set to output 1080p/24 to the D2 for discs recorded in 1080p/24. For the Pioneer player that likely means you need to turn on a "Source Direct" mode, and there may also be another setting to specifically enable /24 output. To see if this is working, play a movie and bring up the Video Source Adjust menu on the D2 (press and hold the "7" key on the remote) and then go to the Info panel. The video input line in that Info panel should say the D2 is receiving 1080p/23.97 input. If it says the D2 is receiving 1080i/59.94 or 1080p/59.94 then your player is not set correctly. The D2 will not properly convert /60 input like that to /24 output with the current D2 firmware even if the original content is in fact "movie based", and if you force it to try then, again, you will get the stutters. My guess would be that this mistake -- improper output settings from the player -- is the most likely cause of your problem.

--Bob


----------



## art4mad

I have searched this thread but am unable to find a definitive answer as to whether or not the issues with the Anthem D2 and the Apple TV via HDMI have been resolved via firmware update son either end. Any info?


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *art4mad* /forum/post/14990339
> 
> 
> I have searched this thread but am unable to find a definitive answer as to whether or not the issues with the Anthem D2 and the Apple TV via HDMI have been resolved via firmware update son either end. Any info?



I haven't tried this in a while but the last I heard this was still not working.


I wonder if this will be solved in the D2v2?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/14989081
> 
> 
> Check out the Popcorn Hour. Low cost and handles most of the video codecs.
> 
> I have had good luck streaming from a HP Media Smart Home Network Server or my desktop via wired network with HD video. You can use it with or without a built in HDD. They update it regularly via internet or via plugin USB drive. You can select output 480i,
> 
> 720p,1080i,1080p and others. I have not tried low loss audio formats yet. It also has built in torrent software. Check it out on AVS thread.



Thanks - I actually saw that one in the media streamer threads, and it looks very capable, but - since they don't publish a manual - it APPEARS that it does not support 480i, only 480p?


At least that was what another owner had posted. Do you have the A-110? Do you use it 480i out?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/14989875
> 
> 
> The way things are going, the 1.2 FW with internal DTS-HDMA decoding for our 05D's will be released one or two days before we decide to send our D2's to Anthem for the v. 2 upgrades!



In fact I don't who will be first. But I know that soon we will be able to compare decoding in the player or decoding in the D2.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/14995131
> 
> 
> In fact I don't who will be first. But I know that soon we will be able to compare decoding in the player or decoding in the D2.



Not without the D2v2, right? Is there any more news on when this will be available?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/14993042
> 
> 
> Thanks - I actually saw that one in the media streamer threads, and it looks very capable, but - since they don't publish a manual - it APPEARS that it does not support 480i, only 480p?
> 
> 
> At least that was what another owner had posted. Do you have the A-110? Do you use it 480i out?



I have the A-100 and use 1080i out as my Qualia 004 only accepts 1080i.

The A-110 has HDMI 1.3 and adds lossless audio formats, internal SATA HDD and external USB 2.0 features


I have almost zero 480i original sources. Most of the items I am streaming from the PCH are MKV. The PCH manual is on the Wiki page.

I recently found Playon and am downloading Instant Movies from Netflix via the PCH. It is not HD but the D2 makes it as good as an up rezzed SD DVD.


Read this from the PCH Forum.


From PCH Forum

08-23-2008, 06:41 PM Post: #21

spawn Moderator


RE: Pass native resolution of files without scaling



The point I was trying to make is - that it seems as people in this thread really dont understand what they are requesting with "passing native resolution".


The pch is not a dvd-player which only have to output SD 480/576 i/p - its a media player which can play many media types which have been resized and cropped to all kinds of non standard resolutions. Like the many resolutions Heartware mentioned - but not restricted to those, any non standard resolution would also play.


Requesting a "pass through of native resolution" doesnt make sense because

1. you cannot output non standard resolutions, you can only output either standard video resolutions or standard pc resolutions.

2. your scalers would never accept these non standard resolutions if they were indeed outputted, your scalers only support input of standard video resolutions (and possibly some pc resolutions depending on scaler used) like those being outputted today.

3. The NMT/PCH allready output non scaled for all standard resolution files and for all files with standard horisontical resolution.


Pass through of native resolution only makes sense if native resolution are in fact a standard video resolution like 480i/p, 576i/p, 720p, 1080i/p - and in these cases the PCH allready do output non scaled - but many times native file resolution are not standard resolutions in the case of the PCH.


Thus for all the files which have non standard resolution, the pch would allways need to output these files at a standard video resolution. This is normally no problem, as a file with for instance 1280x544 would just get added black borders to fill the resolution to 1280x720 for 720p output. This means no scaling is actually being done in the PCH and you allready have what you ask for. The same for SD if horisontical resolution are kept standard and only vertical resolution are cropped.


The PCH only does any scaling if the resolution are something non standard - like 640x242, then it would need to scale to 720x480 before outputting at 480p. But if it were not scaling as people here suggest, then your scalers would not accept the input anyways making the request for this redundant.


So basically - everytime the PCH need to scale a file before ouput because the file has non standard resolution - then your scalers would not accept the resolution if the PCH did not scale it. And everytime the PCH do not need to scale because the file are allready in a standard resolution, or only needs to add black borders, then your scalers are allready receiving a non scaled output from the PCH. Ergo either way the request for passing "native resolution" doesnt really make sense.


-------------------------


As for deinterlacing in case of SD DVD material - which is different from "passing native resolution" - I understand why you would like to be able to ouput the interlaced signal for deinterlacing in your Reon scaler. And I dont see any major problems in implementing a possibility to do so in the NMT.


--------------------------


As for automatic switching of ouput resolution based on file resolution (which really has nothing todo with the "passing native resolution" request ) - it is not simple to implement because as described the NMT/PCH are not restricted to playback of a few standard resolutions like your common dvd-player, but can play any file of any resolution (more or less), this plus the risk of outputting something not supported by the monitor leading to black screen if it switches automatically and the different possiblities in the connection types, does make this request difficult to implement. But if it is to be implemented (and this is still being investigated by Syabas to be done if possible), I fully agree with Heartware on the method to do so.


--------------------------------


As a defense of the NMT/PCH I would also like to point out that the way this works with fixed output are the same as any other player works - other players also do not autoswitch between several resolutions (except for the minimal switching between PAL and NTSC SD possible in some dvd-players). Other players, bluray players, media center PC's, digital tv receivers etc. works the same way by outputting a fixed output and connection type of the users choise. Therefore I dont really understand why the scalers should be especially useless with the NMT, you should all have the same issues with all other types of devices attached to your scalers.


My reason for these comments - is to make it more clear what is really being requested in this thread - is the request to "pass through native resolution" (not really possible or usable), or is the request in this thread for "automatic switching of standard outputs based on file", or is this thread about adding a 480i/576i output mode to allow for external deinterlacing of these specific resolutions ?


----------



## zr123

I know I had asked this awhile back in the thread, but is there any more info on the ETA of the D2 V2 or AVM 50 V2?


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nope. Still nothing new to report.

--Bob


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14997303
> 
> 
> Nope. Still nothing new to report.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob!


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/14996743
> 
> 
> As a defense of the NMT/PCH I would also like to point out that the way this works with fixed output are the same as any other player works - other players also do not autoswitch between several resolutions (except for the minimal switching between PAL and NTSC SD possible in some dvd-players). Other players, bluray players, media center PC's, digital tv receivers etc. works the same way by outputting a fixed output and connection type of the users choise. Therefore I dont really understand why the scalers should be especially useless with the NMT, you should all have the same issues with all other types of devices attached to your scalers.
> 
> 
> My reason for these comments - is to make it more clear what is really being requested in this thread - is the request to "pass through native resolution" (not really possible or usable), or is the request in this thread for "automatic switching of standard outputs based on file", or is this thread about adding a 480i/576i output mode to allow for external deinterlacing of these specific resolutions ?



If I have 1080p, 1080i, 720p and 480i (for example a SD-DVD iso) and I wish to play all of them in turn, it seems that the way most or all of the media streamers are designed is that I would have to pick 1080p as my output, and then anything else then 1080p is deinterlaced and/or upscaled in the media streamer.


I understand there may be intereptations of what 'native resolution' means. For me, a good example is the Tivo HD. If you set it to Native, it will output 480i, 720p or 1080i (here in NTSC land) - the three flavors of ATSC digial broadcast, depending on the source material. To say that players don't do this is incorrect.


----------



## Massimo N

Just curious if anybody has any insight on when the new firmware will be available?


I am still experiencing a hiss when HDMI audio signal is briefly lost and it is supposed to be fixed with the next version.


It would also be nice to get the new settings editor


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Massimo N* /forum/post/14999635
> 
> 
> Just curious if anybody has any insight on when the new firmware will be available?
> 
> 
> I am still experiencing a hiss when HDMI audio signal is briefly lost and it is supposed to be fixed with the next version.
> 
> 
> It would also be nice to get the new settings editor



No idea, but this "hiss", which I've only had since getting ARC is very annoying. I contacted Anthem on it and they informed me that they are aware of it, but they are too busy with the production of the new models to deal with it right now. This was Nicks response:


"Not yet - getting AVM 50v and D2v finished before we can work on other things including the AVM 50 hiss."


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14995323
> 
> 
> Not without the D2v2, right? Is there any more news on when this will be available?



No firm news yet.


----------



## buddy4711




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14885798
> 
> 
> Believe me you do not want to use the V1.32c test software -- the one were they briefly put out to experiment with new HDMI drivers. It is not even Beta quality. That's why it was withdrawn after a brief field testing period this past summer.
> 
> 
> I imagine Anthem has gone through all the simple steps with you. You may need a new video board.
> 
> 
> But once you have eliminated the simple stuff like cables, it is almost always the case that HDMI problems come down to faulty source device implementations.
> 
> 
> For example Comcast is in the process of pushing out the 75.59 software for their Motorola boxes and its HDMI implementation is godawful -- a real step backwards from their prior software.
> 
> 
> When you bring up Anthem's internally generated video patterns (Video Source Adjust > Patterns), do you get a stable HDMI image on your projector? If so, that too would point to a problem on the source device side.
> 
> --Bob



Believe me, the problem of the sudden and repeated dropouts relies/relied purely on the D2. I have made all kind of tests to verify this and finally connected the source directly to the displays (Plasma TV and Projector) with the result that no dropouts happened anymore. But as soon as the D2 is in place these dropouts happen...


next my dealer changed the video boared, but even this did not help since after one hour of running the dropouts were there again...So my D2 went back to Canada (where it still is) and I got in the meantime a AVM-50 for replacement, which works fine so far...


Now I am still waiting for getting back my D2 and some information regarding this problems...


Maybe I just received for good luck a "Monday" piece of equipment (actually this is already the second time for replacement/repair, before was an unsolved power problem...)


----------



## HT_n_Me




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/14997294
> 
> 
> I know I had asked this awhile back in the thread, but is there any more info on the ETA of the D2 V2 or AVM 50 V2?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I had cause to send an email to Anthem in reference to the new D2v2 and it's HDMI audio abilities. As part of the response it was mentioned that the D2v2 is due out by year's end.


I'm in the market for a new Processor, probably late February, so for me timing is right. The Statement D2v2 is on my short list.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HT_n_Me* /forum/post/15001819
> 
> 
> I had cause to send an email to Anthem in reference to the new D2v2 and it's HDMI audio abilities. As part of the response it was mentioned that the D2v2 is due out by year's end.
> 
> 
> I'm in the market for a new Processor, probably late February, so for me timing is right. The Statement D2v2 is on my short list.



Your timing cannot be more right










Get a demonstration of the current D2 from your local dealer that will already give you a good feel of its sound quality and its audio/video performance.


----------



## bluemark81

I have a fine white line that is around the perimeter of my picture. I thought this was controlled by turning my edges off or on and adjusting the pixel count to 0, but it doesn't seem to be making any difference. I've also tried playing with the custom scaling, but still nothing. My horizontal and vertical size in the scale out menu is at 100%. What am I missing here?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If the white line or noise is part of the input video (as often happens with broadcast stations), you can eliminate it by turning Edges on in Video Source Adjust > Crop Input and setting the pixel count to something BIGGER than 0. A 0 there is the same as no Edge cropping. The pixel number in Edges is the number of pixels to be cropped off of each of the 4 sides of the input.


It is also possible that you can get a noise line like that if you haven't set the vertical/horizontal positioning properly in your display. Not all displays have user controls for that.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15006580
> 
> 
> If the white line or noise is part of the input video (as often happens with broadcast stations), you can eliminate it by turning Edges on in Video Source Adjust > Crop Input and setting the pixel count to something BIGGER than 0. A 0 there is the same as no Edge cropping. The pixel number in Edges is the number of pixels to be cropped off of each of the 4 sides of the input.
> 
> 
> It is also possible that you can get a noise line like that if you haven't set the vertical/horizontal positioning properly in your display. Not all displays have user controls for that.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I have tried adjusting the pixel count all the way up to 20, and the line does not go away. It is strange as it just appeared today when I turned the system on. If I switch to SAT2, which is the same input, the line is not present. In comparing the two video source adjustments, they appear the same.


Follow-up: At 0, the white line is close to the bezel. As I increase the pixel count, it moves further from the bezel or trims the 4 sides accordingly as you indicated, but I can't go less than 0, so I can't seem to get rid of them.


The picture is perfectly centered.


----------



## mclsound

does anyone know whether the clicking firmware problem has been resolved now that there is a new version out??

The clicking and poping is starting to aggravate me.Is there anyone out there with a $8000 processor that sounds like their mids and highs are about to require new diaphrams,and when there is $1000 in mids and $400 in highs per speaker these problems must be fixed before you put another version out!! If there is a solution than i apologize for my outburst.Need help?

thanks John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15006646
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I have tried adjusting the pixel count all the way up to 20, and the line does not go away. It is strange as it just appeared today when I turned the system on. If I switch to SAT2, which is the same input, the line is not present. In comparing the two video source adjustments, they appear the same.
> 
> 
> Follow-up: At 0, the white line is close to the bezel. As I increase the pixel count, it moves further from the bezel or trims the 4 sides accordingly as you indicated, but I can't go less than 0, so I can't seem to get rid of them.
> 
> 
> The picture is perfectly centered.



Hmm, that's not right. When you Crop Edges the rest of the video content should be stretched to the limits of the Video Output resolution you have specified. I.e., the bigger the Edges pixel count setting, the more the input video gets stretched -- there should not be a black border around the image after you turn Edges on.


Check your Scale Out setting to make sure you are using one of Panoramic, Anamorphic, or Letter Box.


There may still be a bug in your Anthem (even if scaling is off you should still be cropping that line), but let's check this first.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mclsound* /forum/post/15006804
> 
> 
> does anyone know whether the clicking firmware problem has been resolved now that there is a new version out??
> 
> The clicking and poping is starting to aggravate me.Is there anyone out there with a $8000 processor that sounds like their mids and highs are about to require new diaphrams,and when there is $1000 in mids and $400 in highs per speaker these problems must be fixed before you put another version out!! If there is a solution than i apologize for my outburst.Need help?
> 
> thanks John



John,

What is Anthem tech support telling you about your issue?

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15007097
> 
> 
> Hmm, that's not right. When you Crop Edges the rest of the video content should be stretched to the limits of the Video Output resolution you have specified. I.e., the bigger the Edges pixel count setting, the more the input video gets stretched -- there should not be a black border around the image after you turn Edges on.
> 
> 
> Check your Scale Out setting to make sure you are using one of Panoramic, Anamorphic, or Letter Box.
> 
> 
> There may still be a bug in your Anthem (even if scaling is off you should still be cropping that line), but let's check this first.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I am using Panoramic for my SAT input.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15007140
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I am using Panoramic for my SAT input.



Hmmm. What else is different between your SAT and SAT2 inputs?


Does SAT (the one that is failing) have a Setup / Source Setup / Scaler In setting, or are you trying to use video pass through (no scaling)? I presume we are talking about the Main video output here and not Zone 2 right?

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15007197
> 
> 
> Hmmm. What else is different between your SAT and SAT2 inputs?
> 
> 
> Does SAT (the one that is failing) have a Setup / Source Setup / Scaler In setting, or are you trying to use video pass through (no scaling)? I presume we are talking about the Main video output here and not Zone 2 right?
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I've switched back and forth between SAT1 and SAT2 in an attempt to figure out what is different, but other than some of the picture adjustments, I can't seem to find any differences. Both SAT1 and SAT2 are using HDMI2 as Scaler Input. I do not use the other zones, so yes, we are talking about the main video out. It just seems so odd why the crop line has all of a sudden appeared on this input.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15007265
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I've switched back and forth between SAT1 and SAT2 in an attempt to figure out what is different, but other than some of the picture adjustments, I can't seem to find any differences. Both SAT1 and SAT2 are using HDMI2 as Scaler Input. I do not use the other zones, so yes, we are talking about the main video out. It just seems so odd why the crop line has all of a sudden appeared on this input.



Yeah, I'm stumped! What you are describing should not be possible.


There's nothing for it but to work the issue with Anthem directly.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15007302
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'm stumped! What you are describing should not be possible.
> 
> 
> There's nothing for it but to work the issue with Anthem directly.
> 
> --Bob



Great, probably another issue that will be put on hold until the v2's are released. Thanks for your help in any case Bob.


I will update you on what they tell me.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15007302
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'm stumped! What you are describing should not be possible.
> 
> 
> There's nothing for it but to work the issue with Anthem directly.
> 
> --Bob



Bob: This is what I will be sending to Nick. Can you please review to see if I am missing anything before I send it? Thanks!

_Something odd seemed to happen today when I turned my system on. On my SAT1 input, I am all of a sudden getting a cropping border shown around the 4 sides of my picture. I have a Bell 9200HD fed into HDMI2 of the AVM50 for both SAT1 and SAT2. The only difference between the two inputs are a few picture adjustments within the Video Source Adjustment screen. For SAT1, I get the crop border and for SAT2, I don't. Under the Crop Input menu for SAT1, I have tried turning the edges on and setting it to 0. The Scale Out is set to Panoramic. If I change the pixel count from 0 to some larger value, the crop line moves in from the TV's frame as it should, but, like I said, at 0, it still appears at the outer edge. If I turn the edges off, the crop line still shows in the same location as the 0 position when the Edges are on. On Sat2, my Edge setting is on and set to 4. No crop line is showing. Panoramic is selected for this input as well.


Everything appears to be perfectly centered on the screen.


Any idea what is happening here and how I can remove the cropping line on this input? During dark scenes, it is quite annoying as it appears as a white line. I could use SAT2, but I have each input calibrated for different programming._


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The thing that shouldn't be possible is that what you are calling a "crop line" -- really a noise line at the edge of the image -- is moving in from the edge of the screen when you raise the Edges value.


If the problem is in the positioning on your display (an error in the display's settings), the line shouldn't move. And if the problem is in the input content it should vanish as you raise the Edges value (with the image being stretched more to fill the same amount of screen). It should NOT move inwards from the side of the screen.


Add to that your report that the SAT2 setup, using the same settings, doesn't have this noise line and you've got a real puzzle.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15007653
> 
> 
> The thing that shouldn't be possible is that what you are calling a "crop line" -- really a noise line at the edge of the image -- is moving in from the edge of the screen when you raise the Edges value.
> 
> 
> If the problem is in the positioning on your display (an error in the display's settings), the line shouldn't move. And if the problem is in the input content it should vanish as you raise the Edges value (with the image being stretched more to fill the same amount of screen). It should NOT move inwards from the side of the screen.
> 
> 
> Add to that your report that the SAT2 setup, using the same settings, doesn't have this noise line and you've got a real puzzle.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I call it a crop line because only because when I raise the pixel count, it appears to increasingly "crop" the picture on the 4 sides as I increase the pixel count. Outside of this line, the screen is black. Do you think I should call it a noise line instead? The line is one white pixel wide.


Update:


Bob: I discovered what was forming the line. My detail level setting for SAT1 was set at 5 for some reason. I must have inadvertantly changed this as it was always set at 0. Turning this up starts to generate this white line around the edge of the picture. Issue solved!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It makes more sense to me to call it noise or garbage on the edge of the image, but as long as you describe it the way you have described it here the name is probably not important.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15007776
> 
> 
> It makes more sense to me to call it noise or garbage on the edge of the image, but as long as you describe it the way you have described it here the name is probably not important.
> 
> --Bob



Bob...see my update in previous message.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Imagine that! That's certainly unexpected.


You may have discovered a bug in the Detail algorithm. I think it would still be a good idea to send an email to Anthem with what you discovered. Detail processing should be smoothly diminished near the real crop edges to avoid such "haloing" of the sharp crop edges themselves.


The other thing that still puzzles me is that raising the Edges value for SAT1 is resulting in a black border around the image instead of stretching what remains of the cropped image to the Video Output resolution limits.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mclsound* /forum/post/15006804
> 
> 
> does anyone know whether the clicking firmware problem has been resolved now that there is a new version out??
> 
> The clicking and poping is starting to aggravate me.Is there anyone out there with a $8000 processor that sounds like their mids and highs are about to require new diaphrams,and when there is $1000 in mids and $400 in highs per speaker these problems must be fixed before you put another version out!! If there is a solution than i apologize for my outburst.Need help?
> 
> thanks John




Describe this more thoroughly. What do you mean by a clicking firmware problem ?


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/15007909
> 
> 
> Describe this more thoroughly. What do you mean by a clicking firmware problem ?




He means that when playing a audio source, and adjusting the bass/treble controls either fast or slow, a clicking noise would be heard from the speakers.. And the noise is very loud if volume is turned up..



I have this issue as well, and Nick stated that in a "future" firmware it would be fixed. Seems like ever since firmware 1.11 this problem appeared.. Expecially with ARC in the firmware now..



I agree, that for the price of this equipment, this should not happen..


but..


Since in firmware 1.11 it was not there, a new firmware could fix this.. So it's not a hardware issue..


----------



## mclsound

yes that is correct,although it happens on alot more than just bass and treble

john


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15007854
> 
> 
> Imagine that! That's certainly unexpected.
> 
> 
> You may have discovered a bug in the Detail algorithm. I think it would still be a good idea to send an email to Anthem with what you discovered. Detail processing should be smoothly diminished near the real crop edges to avoid such "haloing" of the sharp crop edges themselves.
> 
> 
> The other thing that still puzzles me is that raising the Edges value for SAT1 is resulting in a black border around the image instead of stretching what remains of the cropped image to the Video Output resolution limits.
> 
> --Bob



I will send an e-mail to Nick to describe my findings and let you know.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15007854
> 
> 
> Imagine that! That's certainly unexpected.
> 
> 
> You may have discovered a bug in the Detail algorithm. I think it would still be a good idea to send an email to Anthem with what you discovered. Detail processing should be smoothly diminished near the real crop edges to avoid such "haloing" of the sharp crop edges themselves.
> 
> 
> The other thing that still puzzles me is that raising the Edges value for SAT1 is resulting in a black border around the image instead of stretching what remains of the cropped image to the Video Output resolution limits.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Following is my question to Nick at Anthem and his response:


Nick:


I discovered something today which seems a bit peculiar to me. Under Video Source Adjustment>Picture>Detail Enhancement, I tried adjusting the detail level to 5. What I discovered as I did this was a line formed around the perimeter of my picture which I will call a noise line, for lack of a better term. This line is white and is one pixel wide, but surrounds the picture on all 4 sides. At first, I tried to eliminate it by setting my edges off but this did not accomplish what I had hoped. I also tried edges on and setting it to 0 but as I expected, this didn't remove the line either. I also tried adjusting the edge setting above 0, but no change other than the line moving in to correspond with the edge setting. My scale out setting is set to Panoramic. I then went back to the detail adjustment and played around with the setting some more. The line disappears at a detail level of 2. Anything above 2 produces the line.


I have a Bell 9200HD fed into the HDMI2 of the AVM50. My TV is a Panasonic 58PZ700 plasma. Any idea what is happening here? This virtually eliminates me using the detail setting on the AVM unless I want to put up with having a very distracting white line framing the picture. The AVM is v 1.33.


Hi Mark,


That's what it's supposed to do. Like a sharpness control, it draws artificial borders around edges of objects in the image and like most videophiles, I say leave it off. The difference is that a sharpness control is analog (boosts high frequency, which occurs where there are transitions in brightness) whereas the detail enhancement control does this through digital processing, with the result being a little cleaner. It's still artificial.


This is image processing - the edge cropping function that re-frames the input has nothing to do with it.


Best Regards,

Nick P., Technical Support


----------



## abc999

Arc 1.28 is up


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/15015401
> 
> 
> Arc 1.28 is up



Gotit!

Finally it is possible to build a true stereo profile (without sub).


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/15015401
> 
> 
> Arc 1.28 is up



Why do I only see 1.25 on the web site ?


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15015455
> 
> 
> Gotit!
> 
> Finally it is possible to build a true stereo profile (without sub).



I look forward to this. I made changes to the layout of my equipment and room finishes (see attached) so I need to recalibrate anyway. I will wait until the software has been deemed "safe for use"...


Thank you,


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15011739
> 
> 
> Hi Mark,
> 
> 
> That's what it's supposed to do. Like a sharpness control, it draws artificial borders around edges of objects in the image and like most videophiles, I say leave it off. The difference is that a sharpness control is analog (boosts high frequency, which occurs where there are transitions in brightness) whereas the detail enhancement control does this through digital processing, with the result being a little cleaner. It's still artificial.
> 
> 
> This is image processing - the edge cropping function that re-frames the input has nothing to do with it.
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Nick P., Technical Support



Well, I disagree with Nick on this and would consider this a bug. A haloing contrast enhancer like this should know the difference between transitions that are actually in the content and the false transition that happens at the 4 edges of the frame. It's easy enough to do. Just calculate as if the content is extended a few pixels outside the frame on all 4 sides (duplicating the pixels that are actually along each edge). Thus the false transition is now outside the area of the results you are producing, so the unwanted line is not produced in the visible frame.


But on the other hand, I do agree with him that Detail and Sharpness enhancement should both be left off for best quality viewing, so I suppose the issue is moot.


It will be interesting to see if the new VXP chip in the v.2 products also has this oddity.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/15015401
> 
> 
> Arc 1.28 is up



What happened to 1.27? Don't seem to remember having seen it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC V1.2.8 is on Anthem's password protected download page, which means it is still "test" software. Folks trying "test" software should be prepared for the possibility of surprises. There's no big secret about the password for this download page. If you are working a problem, Anthem tech support will give you the password. But Anthem, quite reasonably, wants to know that folks understand the nature of "test" software, so they should be the ones to give out the password. (I.e., I won't post it.)


In the past, "test" software which seems to be working well gets put up on the public download page within days to weeks after appearing on the password protected page.


The release notes for ARC V1.2.8 read as follows:



> Quote:
> Changes:
> 
> 
> v1.2.8:
> 
> 
> 1. Change to how sub crossover frequency is selected to address cases where the sub is a lot closer to the listener than the center channel, causing dialog to be heard from the sub if its crossover was set high enough.
> 
> 
> 2. More settings available for configurations not using a subwoofer. Note that while the front channels will be set to Large in the setup menu, ARC will still create a low frequency contour on the room correction target based on response at those frequencies. This is separate from the bass manager's crossover. To override it, set ARC's crossover (which is really part of the EQ profile) to 25 Hz in the Custom mode Targets menu, click OK, then Calculate, then Upload.
> 
> 
> If using a file made with v1.2.2 or later, re-measurement is not necessary. Open the file using v1.2.8 Custom mode, calculate and upload.



I should note that the last time Anthem tried a change as in item (1) above the results were decidedly NOT GOOD, and the test software was rapidly withdrawn. The bass balance was way off for many normal speaker layouts. So folks might want to wait a bit to see if early reports are good with this version.


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15016868
> 
> 
> What happened to 1.27? Don't seem to remember having seen it.



ARC V1.2.6 and V1.2.7 were never released, even as test software. My guess would be they were internal test versions being used as part of the v.2 hardware development.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15016541
> 
> 
> I look forward to this. I made changes to the layout of my equipment and room finishes (see attached) so I need to recalibrate anyway. I will wait until the software has been deemed "safe for use"...
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> Mike



Yes you will definitely want to redo your ARC setup, if for no other reason than to account for the absence of the cat!










--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15016922
> 
> 
> ARC V1.2.6 and V1.2.7 were never released, even as test software. My guess would be they were internal test versions being used as part of the v.2 hardware development.
> 
> --Bob



Ahh.... Thanks, Bob. Thought I missed something.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

CORRECTION: ARC V1.2.6 was the withdrawn version, i.e., the version where they last tried to change the sub crossover selection algorithm to account for cases where the sub was much closer to the listener than the center speaker.


So ARC V1.2.7 is the only one we haven't seen yet.


------------------------------------


I just did a recalculation using my ARC V1.2.5 measurements in ARC V1.2.8.


Unlike the problematic ARC V1.2.6 version, ARC V1.2.8 did *NOT* choose different crossovers for me compared to ARC V1.2.5 -- which is good, because my setup shouldn't need it. This is true even if I do an Auto Detect in the Targets window (after opening my ARC V1.2.5 Measured file in Advanced mode). With ARC V1.2.6, doing an Auto Detect was the point at which the crossovers changed (when using an old Measured file).


I don't know how ARC V1.2.8 decides the difference here. There's nothing in the Targets, or in the setup prior to Measurement, that you can set to clue it in as to whether your sub is close or not.


And I doubt it uses the distance entries in the D2 Setup menu or we would have been warned to make sure they were correct ahead of time (which would mean you could not necessarily use old Measured files as the ARC V1.2.8 release notes tell you you can).


-------------------------------------


I've been using a Max EQ Frequency target of 12KHz with ARC V1.2.5. In the past, raising that up to 15KHz or 20KHz produced more residual errors at lower frequencies than I liked.


With ARC V1.2.8 that does not appear to be the case. There are some tiny differences at lower frequencies compared to a 12KHz calculation (0.5 or 1dB perhaps), but nothing significant.


I need a little extra help at high frequencies for my Center speaker (more than the 12KHz target gives me), and right now it looks to me like I can run ARC V1.2.8 all the way up to 20KHz in my setup with no ill effects that show up in the Calculated curves. So I'm going to try Uploading a 20KHz Calculation this time and see what I get!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There's something funky going on with ARC V1.2.8.


Even though the Targets window insists it is using 120Hz for the subwoofer crossover for Movie and Music (as was the case with ARC V1.2.5), what actually got uploaded was 90Hz for Movie and 80Hz for Music.


I don't yet know whether the error is in what the Targets window is displaying or whether we are back to the situation where sometimes the Uploads don't get properly verified.


The Calculated curve for my subwoofer is unchanged from what ARC V1.2.5 displayed, so that suggests it is an Upload problem


I've got to dig into this some more.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15016825
> 
> 
> Well, I disagree with Nick on this and would consider this a bug. A haloing contrast enhancer like this should know the difference between transitions that are actually in the content and the false transition that happens at the 4 edges of the frame. It's easy enough to do. Just calculate as if the content is extended a few pixels outside the frame on all 4 sides (duplicating the pixels that are actually along each edge). Thus the false transition is now outside the area of the results you are producing, so the unwanted line is not produced in the visible frame.
> 
> 
> But on the other hand, I do agree with him that Detail and Sharpness enhancement should both be left off for best quality viewing, so I suppose the issue is moot.
> 
> 
> It will be interesting to see if the new VXP chip in the v.2 products also has this oddity.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Have you tried to duplicate this effect on your system?


Is there any point indicating that this should not be doing this?


I've got to ask, although mine is now set to 0, why even include that feature if he is recommending not to use it or in my case, because I can't due to the distracting lines?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No I haven't tried it and probably won't get around to playing with it for a while.


But no big deal, right? I mean you didn't actually WANT to use detail "enhancement", you just activated it by mistake.


As I said, I think if it acts that way it is a bug. Perhaps someone else here will try it before I get to it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've tried the ARC V1.2.8 Upload multiple times and also tried recreating the results file and Uploading that, and the results are consistent: The sub crossover values loaded into Setup > Speaker Configuration differ from the ones shown in the ARC Targets window. No other values are odd after Upload, and the Uploaded sub crossovers are the same every time.


So I *DON'T* think it is a return of the problem of faulty Uploads (not being caught by the verify stuff).


I suspect what's going on here is that the crossovers in the Targets are SUPPOSED to be different from the Uploaded sub crossovers in ARC V1.2.8. I.e., the Targets window controls the Room EQ parameter processing, but the normal, bass steering crossover processing in the D2 is adjusted to a different value to avoid inappropriate bass steering. Separating these two parts of the processing like this may be how they implemented this improvement without also screwing up the bass balance as happened with the now-withdrawn ARC V1.2.6.


So far I've detected no problems in the actual audio resulting from these ARC V1.2.8 results.


I've got in email in to Nick at Anthem asking for clarification.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bluemark81,

OK I just tried raising the Video Source Adjust > Detail level using my Comcast HD-DVR input and I get the same result you are getting: An incorrect highlight line appears around all 4 sides of the image.


I don't recall seeing this before, but it's been a long time since I last tried playing with the Detail level control -- perhaps since before the V1.11 firmware.


It is still my opinion that this is a bug -- probably in the VXP chip firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well I've done more listening with my shiny new, 20KHz, ARC V1.2.8 results and they sound very good indeed! I do believe I got the high frequency improvement in the Center channel I was aiming for. And I've been able to detect no issues in the bass blend through the cross over. So I'm inclined to think the difference between the Targets sub crossover and the Setup > Speaker Configuration sub crossover is both intentional and working well.


I'll let you know when I get a response on this from Nick.


----------------------------------


So far I've spotted no downside to ARC V1.2.8 -- certainly none of the bass issues that caused ARC V1.2.6 to be pulled. But more listening is needed.


Now this is based on my prior, ARC V1.2.5 Measurements file. I've not tried re-Measuring yet with ARC V1.2.8 and probably won't for a while.

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

what happend?


OK So I moved my sub around again, i had time so thought I would try something.

1st mistake, I forgot to save all user settings. IDIOT.

So I do an ARC mesure and upload. Turn on my system and . WTF. Everything is off. I mean My remote for starters. I hit one button and it's supposed to turn on tv turn on avm50 to dvd2 and so on. but avm50 now says. DVD2 disabled. wtf , and all my user settings. calibrations, name changes to dvd/aux/and so on are all gone.

My AVM50 also set my speaker distance to 12ft I had it at 7.5 for L/R and 7 for C and 12 for sub but it put everything at 12.


So I think I need to redo the whole thing, I need to fix my calibrations 1st, name all my imputs again and then find out why my remote [aftermarket] is not sending the right signal or is the avm50 doing something.


Anyone have this happen before. Lose all settings>? I have done ARC many many times before without a hitch.


Good night for now, see you in the AM.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/15021301
> 
> 
> what happend?
> 
> 
> OK So I moved my sub around again, i had time so thought I would try something.
> 
> 1st mistake, I forgot to save all user settings. IDIOT.
> 
> So I do an ARC mesure and upload. Turn on my system and . WTF. Everything is off. I mean My remote for starters. I hit one button and it's supposed to turn on tv turn on avm50 to dvd2 and so on. but avm50 now says. DVD2 disabled. wtf , and all my user settings. calibrations, name changes to dvd/aux/and so on are all gone.
> 
> My AVM50 also set my speaker distance to 12ft I had it at 7.5 for L/R and 7 for C and 12 for sub but it put everything at 12.
> 
> 
> So I think I need to redo the whole thing, I need to fix my calibrations 1st, name all my imputs again and then find out why my remote [aftermarket] is not sending the right signal or is the avm50 doing something.
> 
> 
> Anyone have this happen before. Lose all settings>? I have done ARC many many times before without a hitch.
> 
> 
> Good night for now, see you in the AM.



Your last set of User or Installer settings are probably still in there. Restoring them should get you closer to your most recent settings. Then you'll only have to deal with the differences since the last time you saved settings.


We've had occasional reports of ARC causing a loss of settings, but I don't think anyone has yet found out what triggers it. ARC needs to zero out some settings prior to doing its Measurement pass, but they are all things that get restored afterwards, and certainly when you do an Upload -- things like the crossover settings and speaker level settings.


Presuming you have a saved set of User or Installer settings, even if it is not totally up to date, do this:


1) Restore those saved settings.


2) Manually adjust anything you have changed more recently than those.


3) Open your ARC results file in Advanced mode and do an Upload.


4) Check through your Setup menu settings to see if everything is as it should be, and finally


5) Save User and/or Installer settings to capture all this


----------------------------------


ETA: The "overlayed" inputs like DVD2, DVD3, etc., are disabled in the factory defaults. That's why your remote isn't switching to it. The remote itself is probably fine. You just need to fix the lost settings in the Anthem -- hopefully not too hard as described above.

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

I'll give it a shot tonight, thx "BOB"


----------



## Carlton Bale




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15016825
> 
> 
> It will be interesting to see if the new VXP chip in the v.2 products also has this oddity.
> 
> --Bob



I know this is somewhat speculation at this point, but if I upgrade to V2, will the video chip be replaced? I have the original video chip revision and it is extremely hot, so much so that I have 4 computer fans on top of the case cooling it to keep it from blue screening.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/15022372
> 
> 
> I know this is somewhat speculation at this point, but if I upgrade to V2, will the video chip be replaced? I have the original video chip revision and it is extremely hot, so much so that I have 4 computer fans on top of the case cooling it to keep it from blue screening.




Yes it will be replaced by the new generation of Gennum chip. I don't know if they run cooler, this is a good question.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15019931
> 
> 
> I've tried the ARC V1.2.8 Upload multiple times and also tried recreating the results file and Uploading that, and the results are consistent: The sub crossover values loaded into Setup > Speaker Configuration differ from the ones shown in the ARC Targets window. No other values are odd after Upload, and the Uploaded sub crossovers are the same every time.
> 
> 
> So I *DON'T* think it is a return of the problem of faulty Uploads (not being caught by the verify stuff).
> 
> 
> I suspect what's going on here is that the crossovers in the Targets are SUPPOSED to be different from the Uploaded sub crossovers in ARC V1.2.8. I.e., the Targets window controls the Room EQ parameter processing, but the normal, bass steering crossover processing in the D2 is adjusted to a different value to avoid inappropriate bass steering. Separating these two parts of the processing like this may be how they implemented this improvement without also screwing up the bass balance as happened with the now-withdrawn ARV V1.2.6.
> 
> 
> So far I've detected no problems in the actual audio resulting from these ARC V1.2.8 results.
> 
> 
> I've got in email in to Nick at Anthem asking for clarification.
> 
> --Bob



I tried 1.2.8 just to test the stability. What you found out is really interesting. I will play with that this week-end.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/15022372
> 
> 
> I know this is somewhat speculation at this point, but if I upgrade to V2, will the video chip be replaced? I have the original video chip revision and it is extremely hot, so much so that I have 4 computer fans on top of the case cooling it to keep it from blue screening.



The entire video board will be replaced in the v.2 products.


The heat in the original units was NOT due to the video chip but rather to the power supply. The chassis is designed to dissipate that heat, i.e., the unit is DESIGNED to throw off all that heat and still run properly. The video chip itself is not that heat sensitive either. The HDMI chips are more heat sensitive which is why they are on the other side of the chassis from the power supply and right up near the top of the unit where they can get best ventilation.


If you've got your current unit set up with reasonable ventilation around it you should not need extra cooling like this. If it is enclosed then of course you will. Depending on the details of your setup, your need for extra cooling may indicate you have a hardware problem.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Bob,

I noticed that, using my 1.22 measurements, the 1.28 "Auto Detect" changed the x'over points for my Fronts and Surrounds from 40Hz and 45Hz to respectively to 60Hz for both (Cinema). For Music, it changed the Front from Fullrange to 30Hz (sub not used).


Maybe I'd better re-measure.

Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15024887
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I noticed that, using my 1.22 measurements, the 1.28 "Auto Detect" changed the x'over points for my Fronts and Surrounds from 40Hz and 45Hz to respectively to 60Hz for both (Cinema). For Music, it changed the Front from Fullrange to 30Hz (sub not used).
> 
> 
> Maybe I'd better re-measure.
> 
> Ben



As I recall there were crossover selection improvements between 1.2.2 and 1.2.5 that you are probably picking up now with 1.2.8 (when you do the Auto Detect to have it reanalyze your Measurement data). So this is probably expected behavior. Keep in mind that if you have a subwoofer in the Movie config these slightly higher main speaker crossovers are probably correct. The crossover is not a hard cutoff, so you get about an octave of overlap with the subwoofer (i.e., a 60Hz crossover still has audio down to around 30Hz).


As I understand it from the release notes, the new stuff in 1.2.8 always starts off by setting a low end contour on the main speakers even if you specify that you have no subwoofer. That is, you have to manually select Full Range for those speakers to override this. When you do the Auto Detect it probably goes back to assigning that lower contour so you have to set Full Range again. Whether you do this or not, the uploaded speaker configuration should now set those speakers to Large, which means no bass steering is actually happening. So leaving the low end contour in place (instead of manually selecting Full Range) would just affect the application of the Room Correction parameters down there.


Anyway, select Full Range for those speakers in Targets and re-calculate and you should be good to go for your configuration without the subwoofer.


-------------------------------------------


If you do re-measure and discover any significant differences, please do post about them.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15018881
> 
> 
> There's something funky going on with ARC V1.2.8.
> 
> 
> Even though the Targets window insists it is using 120Hz for the subwoofer crossover for Movie and Music (as was the case with ARC V1.2.5), what actually got uploaded was 90Hz for Movie and 80Hz for Music.
> 
> 
> I don't yet know whether the error is in what the Targets window is displaying or whether we are back to the situation where sometimes the Uploads don't get properly verified.
> 
> 
> The Calculated curve for my subwoofer is unchanged from what ARC V1.2.5 displayed, so that suggests it is an Upload problem
> 
> 
> I've got to dig into this some more.
> 
> --Bob



Looks like now we will not be able to tell whether an upload is properly verified or otherwise.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15025112
> 
> 
> Looks like now we will not be able to tell whether an upload is properly verified or otherwise.



That was my first worry, but I've now done multiple uploads with no variation in results. Back when we were having upload reliability problems it was easy to confirm this was happening because every upload was an adventure (unexpected and different values each time).


I'm pretty confident the word will come back from Nick that this crossover variation is intended behavior. And I'm pretty sure that the verification stuff that was put in back before ARC V1.2.5 is still intact and working properly with the V1.33 unit firmware.


Note that the ONLY difference I'm seeing is in the sub crossover values. For example I also know what my speaker levels uploads should produce and they too are correct every time with V1.2.8.


So if you see a difference in some OTHER crossover, or have odd values in your speaker levels, then that would still suggest an upload error that wasn't caught.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15025086
> 
> 
> ...... select Full Range for those speakers in Targets and re-calculate and you should be good to go for your configuration without the subwoofer.



No, it will not permit Full Range selection (option brown-out). If I understand correctly, the notes say to change the value down to 25Hz (minimum) if we want Full Range calculation.



> Quote:
> If you do re-measure and discover any significant differences, please do post about them.
> 
> --Bob



Will do.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*ARC "test" version V1.2.9 now out.*


Well that was quick! The password protected download page has been updated again this morning to replace ARC V1.2.8 with ARC V1.2.9. The release notes read as follows:



> Quote:
> Changes:
> 
> 
> v1.2.9:
> 
> 
> 1. Change to how sub crossover frequency is selected to address cases where the sub is a lot closer to the listener than the center channel, causing dialog to be heard from the sub if its crossover was set high enough.
> 
> 
> 2. More settings available for configurations not using a subwoofer. Note that while the front channels will be set to Large in the setup menu, ARC will still create a low frequency contour on the room correction target based on response at those frequencies. This is separate from the bass manager's crossover. To override it, set ARC's crossover (which is really part of the EQ profile) to 25 Hz in the Custom mode Targets menu, click OK, then Calculate, then Upload.
> 
> 
> If using a file made with v1.2.2 or later, re-measurement is not necessary. Open the file using v1.2.8 Custom mode, calculate and upload.



These look to me like the identical release notes for ARC V1.2.8 (including the reference to 1.2.8 in the last sentence. So I've got no idea what actually changed here. It may be bug fixes, or it may be due to testing with respect to the new v.2 hardware -- we just don't know yet.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Bob


It took me weeks of trying to decide if I should upload to v1.33 after the bad experience I had previously on updating and bricking my D2 because of a bad video board. (Not under warranty by the way) I bit the bullet and successfully updated to v1.33 and Arc to v1.25.


I have several questions to ask and I have attached the ARC graphs


1. Why is there a difference from the LF to RF graph db parameters. LF is 50 to 80 db and the RF is 60 to 90 db?


2. There is a big difference between the surrounds and the center speaker. The center and surround are the same model and design speaker units. Do you think the difference is because the center speaker is on a shelf under the tv ?


3. I would like your opinion about what you see in the graphs ?


I was hoping the upgrade to v1.33 would alleviate the HDMI dropouts from my Comcast DVR. Not to be. Have you any luck in solving them ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The folders for the "test" ARC V1.2.9 version are all named V1.2.9. But when the software is installed, its About box identifies it as V1.2.8.1.


--------------------------------


ETA: It appears that there is a change in V1.2.8.1 to make it do an initial "processing" pass when you open an older data file as from ARC V1.2.5. At a guess, they've changed it to always do an Auto Detect on startup so that the user doesn't have to remember to do it manually. Since Auto Detect wasn't producing any changes for me in ARC V1.2.8 I can't confirm this, but it makes sense.


The 12KHz and 20KHz Calculations based on my ARC V1.2.5 Measurements look just as good in ARC V1.2.8.1 (aka V1.2.9) as they did in ARC V1.2.8. I'm Uploading 20KHz results now.


--------------------------------


ETA 2: My Upload of the 20KHz results for V1.2.8.1 went fine and I'm listening to it now. So far so good!


I also just got an email from Nick at Anthem confirming that this V1.2.8, etc., stuff does indeed deliberately set different values for the Setup > Speaker Configuration subwoofer crossover than are used by the Room EQ stuff itself (as displayed in the ARC Targets window). So no error here. He also confirmed that the robust Upload verification stuff is still place. So no worries.


He says that the ARC V1.2.8, etc., stuff is still "alpha" test software, so that means it will likely be while before it makes it to the public download page. I gather they want to test the new algorithm against a bunch of difficult configurations such as full range LF/RF speakers but far less capable Center speaker -- including the problem of preventing voices from getting steered from the Center to the subwoofer.


In any case, in my less challenging configuration it is sounding very good indeed!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I got another email from Nick saying that the processing pass when you open an old file in ARC V1.2.8, etc., is due to it re-balancing levels. He says that the prior crossover settings form that file are maintained unless you manually do an Auto Detect (in the Targets window) to tell ARC to re-evaluate the old data and apply its current algorithm for selecting new crossovers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/15025774
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> It took me weeks of trying to decide if I should upload to v1.33 after the bad experience I had previously on updating and bricking my D2 because of a bad video board. (Not under warranty by the way) I bit the bullet and successfully updated to v1.33 and Arc to v1.25.
> 
> 
> I have several questions to ask and I have attached the ARC graphs
> 
> 
> 1. Why is there a difference from the LF to RF graph db parameters. LF is 50 to 80 db and the RF is 60 to 90 db?
> 
> 
> 2. There is a big difference between the surrounds and the center speaker. The center and surround are the same model and design speaker units. Do you think the difference is because the center speaker is on a shelf under the tv ?
> 
> 
> 3. I would like your opinion about what you see in the graphs ?
> 
> 
> I was hoping the upgrade to v1.33 would alleviate the HDMI dropouts from my Comcast DVR. Not to be. Have you any luck in solving them ?



1) The charts in ARC are "auto-scaled" to fit the data. Your LF speaker Measured data stays below 80 dB while the other speakers have peaks above that, so it shifted the charts for them to keep those peaks visible.


2) Your Center speaker looks like it has a problem in the mid-range driver. Its Measured curve is down over 12dB near 800Hz. [6dB down is half volume -- 12dB down is 1/4th volume.] The surrounds are down near there as well but not nearly so much. I don't think it likely that this is due to the shelf placement. It looks more like a physical or electronic problem in that speaker. ARC can not correct for all of that (and if there's a physical problem in the speaker, ARC's correction may not even be effective at those frequencies).


Your LF and RF speakers also have a pretty substantial Measured drop between 50Hz and 150Hz. It's unusual for a room "null" to be that wide, so I'm wondering if they, too don't have a physical problem. ARC was able to correct the RF speaker but you still have residual errors in those frequencies in the LF speaker.


Your surrounds and subwoofer look fine.


3) Check the LF/RF speakers to see if they have some sort of frequency response adjustment like a bass port that might need to be opened to take care of that hole between 50Hz and 150Hz. And get up close to your center speaker and see if you can hear audio coming from its mid-range driver.


------------------------------------


That latest software that Comcast has been pushing out has made the HDMI issues even worse. In addition, HDMI 480i YCbCr output has visible image defects (the GREEN LINE on the right of the image). I've had to resort to using only HDMI 1080i output from my Comcast box. That, added to the heavy handed re-compression Comcast is doing in my market area makes me really eager to switch to Verizon FIOS TV as soon as it gets here.

--Bob


----------



## Carlton Bale




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15024308
> 
> 
> The heat in the original units was NOT due to the video chip but rather to the power supply. The chassis is designed to dissipate that heat, i.e., the unit is DESIGNED to throw off all that heat and still run properly. The video chip itself is not that heat sensitive either. The HDMI chips are more heat sensitive which is why they are on the other side of the chassis from the power supply and right up near the top of the unit where they can get best ventilation.
> 
> 
> If you've got your current unit set up with reasonable ventilation around it you should not need extra cooling like this. If it is enclosed then of course you will. Depending on the details of your setup, your need for extra cooling may indicate you have a hardware problem.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. My D2 is in a ventilated equipment rack, but I thought perhaps is wasn't ventilated enough due to frequent blue screen lockups over both HDMI and Component. The on-screen volume would still display, but no video content. Adding 4 low speed 120mm fans didn't solve the problem, but upgrading to 4 high-speed fans did.


You're assumption is correct, the heat is coming from the power supply side of the unit. Without the fans, with the D2 sitting by itself, the case on that side is hot enough that I find it difficult to hold my hand on the case for more than 10 seconds. This is not normally the case?


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I loaded my last measurements done with ARC v.1.2.5 using ARC 1.2.8.

And this after i have set my front and central speakers to Full range.

Now when playing loud scenes I can hear some loud pops coming from my front speakers.

Guys, this is how I wrecked one woofer and 2 tweeters back then.

So be careful.

Bob, do you have any recommendations in the meantime before they release an official version? How would you use the Full range checkbox (if you use it)?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15030075
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I loaded my last measurements done with ARC v.1.2.5 using ARC 1.2.8.
> 
> And this after i have set my front and central speakers to Full range.
> 
> Now when playing loud scenes I can hear some loud pops coming from my front speakers.
> 
> Guys, this is how I wrecked one woofer and 2 tweeters back then.
> 
> So be careful.
> 
> Bob, do you have any recommendations in the meantime before they release an official version? How would you use the Full range checkbox (if you use it)?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I don't yet have a handle on what that Full range checkbox does. I presume it is supposed to tell the Room Correction algorithm not to roll off the low frequency target for them until it gets down into the subsonics.


We had one poster above who said his Full Range checkboxes were grayed out and he had to do the method described in the release notes instead (set the crossover down to 25Hz in the Targets window). Note that you have to re-Calculate after doing that.


------------------------------------


You should email Nick the V1.2.5 file you used as the Measurements and the V1.2.8 file based on those Measurements that resulted in the loud pops.


So far I've heard no such loud pops.


Again, a reminder to folks that "test" software is not done yet. There may be some nasties in it at this point.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
1) The charts in ARC are "auto-scaled" to fit the data. Your LF speaker Measured data stays below 80 dB while the other speakers have peaks above that, so it shifted the charts for them to keep those peaks visible.


2) Your Center speaker looks like it has a problem in the mid-range driver. Its Measured curve is down over 12dB near 800Hz. [6dB down is half volume -- 12dB down is 1/4th volume.] The surrounds are down near there as well but not nearly so much. I don't think it likely that this is due to the shelf placement. It looks more like a physical or electronic problem in that speaker. ARC can not correct for all of that (and if there's a physical problem in the speaker, ARC's correction may not even be effective at those frequencies).


Your LF and RF speakers also have a pretty substantial Measured drop between 50Hz and 150Hz. It's unusual for a room "null" to be that wide, so I'm wondering if they, too don't have a physical problem. ARC was able to correct the RF speaker but you still have residual errors in those frequencies in the LF speaker.


Your surrounds and subwoofer look fine.


3) Check the LF/RF speakers to see if they have some sort of frequency response adjustment like a bass port that might need to be opened to take care of that hole between 50Hz and 150Hz. And get up close to your center speaker and see if you can hear audio coming from its mid-range driver.


------------------------------------


That latest software that Comcast has been pushing out has made the HDMI issues even worse. In addition, HDMI 480i YCbCr output has visible image defects (the GREEN LINE on the right of the image). I've had to resort to using only HDMI 1080i output from my Comcast box. That, added to the heavy handed re-compression Comcast is doing in my market area makes me really eager to switch to Verizon FIOS TV as soon as it gets here.

--Bob
Bob


Thank you very much for the information. It helps me a lot in trying to sort out the issues.


I don't find a mechanical problem with the center speaker drivers. The suurounds and center speaker are the same model so I will be switching one of the surrounds with the center speaker to see if there is a difference.


The RF and LF speakers (Genesis 350SE ) each have 4 ft ribbons for the midrange, 10 forward facing and 3 rearward facing tweeters and 4 -10 inch woofers. Read the attached PDF and you can see thai is not going to be easy.


Do you think Anthem will resolve or attempt to resolve the Comcast HDMI problem. It is very irritating.


I was led to believe the Comcast native signal was 1080i and not changing it was pass thru. If you changed it to 480i or other resolution you were then using the Motorola DVR internal decoder. Am I wrong ?


My alternative to Comcast will soon be AT&T U-verse. So far my research says the AT&T video is not as good and AT&T uses more compression.

 

G350se_Owners_Manual.pdf 96.4072265625k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Comcast sends SD at 480i and HD at 720p or 1080i according to what the station is broadcasting. The box has no "native" output so you can't get all 3 automatically. You can get at most one SD and one HD resolution output from the box automatically.


I know that Anthem has new HDMI code they are working on, but it appears to be held up behind the v.2 hardware release work. In the test version they had out briefly this summer it worked much better with the Comcast HDMI as it existed at that point, but I don't know if the new, crappier Comcast HDMI will respond to it as well. HDMI handshaking is driven by the source device so there's only so much the Anthem can do if the source is screwing things up when working through a receiver or pre-pro.


----------------------------------------


There are many folks here who would advocate you use Component from your Comcast box (with optical audio) and avoid the whole issue. With the poorer signal Comcast is now subjecting customers to in my market area that may be the right answer. At the moment I'm using just HDMI 1080i from the Comcast box to avoid new handshakes due to output resolution changes.


-----------------------------------------


Based on the description of the Midrange control on page 5 of the speaker manual, it appears you want to set that to position 1 for the LF/RF speakers to get more "lower midrange".


Apparently those speakers also let you set the relative phase between the woofer and the midrange. You may have a phase error in your current setup resulting in some cancellation in the low midrange (the crossover region for those two drivers where both drivers are active).


Part of the problem with "adjustable" full range speakers like this is that ARC can't hear the subwoofer portion of each speaker separate from the rest of the speaker -- and thus can't apply adjustments to blend them better where they cross over. You will need to manually adjust to get these "combo" speakers flatter and without cancellation in the crossover using the adjustments in the speaker, and then ARC can take it from there. For this purpose, doing repeated Measurements with ARC can help. Temporarily set things so that ARC believes you have only a 2.0 full range speaker setup with Movie and Music using the same configuration. That will speed up each set of ARC Measurements. You will still need to Measure at 5 mic positions however. There's no need to do Calculations or Uploads in ARC until you get the Measured curves flatter in that 50 to 150 Hz range using the manual adjustments in each speaker.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

XTRIPS,

What source are you using when you hear the loud pops with ARC V1.2.8? What sort of audio input is being fed to the Anthem?


If you turn the main volume on the Anthem way down but still play a loud scene do you still hear the pops? Or does the main volume have to be turned up as well? (Turning down the main volume will let you protect your speakers while still trying to test this. You could also try headphones -- speakers muted -- to be even safer.)


Are the pops repeatable if you play the same content again?


If you turn off ARC (Room EQ = OFF) temporarily for that source do the pops go away?


---------------------------------------


I've been playing loud scenes from my PS3 (HDMI LPCM multi-channel 48KHz) to the D2 and I've not been able to get any loud pops. Same from my Comcast box (DD5.1 HDMI bitstream to the D2). Of course you are doing full range speaker stuff in ARC that I am not doing.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15031747
> 
> 
> Temporarily set things so that ARC believes you have only a 2.0 full range speaker setup with Movie and Music using the same configuration. That will speed up each set of ARC Measurements. You will still need to Measure at 5 mic positions however. There's no need to do Calculations or Uploads in ARC until you get the Measured curves flatter in that 50 to 150 Hz range using the manual adjustments in each speaker.
> 
> --Bob



I too am using 1080i with HDMI and I put up with occasionally losing the synch/handshake. Sometimes it appears to be worse with CBS but I cannot prove that theory. On Comcast HD there appears to be a lot of the very short audio dropouts, sometimes, not often with pixelization of the video.


Thanks again for all the help and insights


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The pixelation and audio dropouts are more likely than not a problem on the feed coming to your address as opposed to something between the Comcast box and the Anthem. Even if you've got a strong feed wire signal, the Comcast infrastructure in your neighborhood may have problems from time to time.


By the way, I use optical audio from the Comcast box even though I'm still using HDMI for video. That's to avoid the other problem in the Comcast HDMI implementation where HDMI audio doesn't start until a few seconds after HDMI video begins.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15031747
> 
> 
> 
> There are many folks here who would advocate you use Component from your Comcast box (with optical audio) and avoid the whole issue.
> 
> --Bob


*OH NO*







Don't tell me Bob Might SWITCH to the DARK side and use Component.


----------



## thestewman

The pixelation and audio dropouts are more likely than not a problem on the feed coming to your address as opposed to something between the Comcast box and the Anthem. Even if you've got a strong feed wire signal, the Comcast infrastructure in your neighborhood may have problems from time to time.


By the way, I use optical audio from the Comcast box even though I'm still using HDMI for video. That's to avoid the other problem in the Comcast HDMI implementation where HDMI audio doesn't start until a few seconds after HDMI video begins.

--Bob




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15032398
> 
> *OH NO*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't tell me Bob Might SWITCH to the DARK side and use Component.



I _CAN_ aleviate all the problems. My video display accepts and outputs IEEE 1394 (Firewire). There NO audio dropouts or loss of synch with video and no HDMI handshake issues.


It just takes a couple of extra steps on the remote to view IEEE 1394 sources.


I use it to monitor output/input via IEEE 1394 from the Comcast DVR to computer or D-VHS for recording in HD.


----------



## jayray

Installed 1.28.1 and the following happened.

1. could not find unit. Tried everything. Says D1/D2 not found, I have an AVM50

2. video settings editor worked and save my settings.

3. setup editor would find unit and progress bar would go to the end and then say, file upload failed.

Will try with 1.25 again.

John


Tried with 1.25 and same result, "cannot find unit" "upload failed" Tried again and it connected. Went back to 1.2.8.1 and still cannot find unit message comes up.


----------



## dschamis

I just recalc'd and uploaded with 1.28.1 and everything worked great - sounds great too.


----------



## jayray

Well it looks like this has bricked my unit. Now nothing works and the source switching and remote commands are very slow and no sound comes out. Any suggestions









John


Tried to reinstall firmware but it now says "failure to enter and exit debug mode" Is there a reset on this unit?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15035063
> 
> 
> Well it looks like this has bricked my unit. Now nothing works and the source switching and remote commands are very slow and no sound comes out. Any suggestions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Disconnect the computer from the Anthem.


In the computer, use the Windows Add/Remove programs facility to remove the current installation of ARC. If you find more than one ARC in there, remove all of them.


Re-install ARC V1.2.8.1. Go to the Windows Programs folder and find the Anthem folder inside it where the ARC application has been installed (see the ARC section of the manual for the precise name of this folder). Check that the two licensing and calibration files are in there in the same folder with the ARC application itself. Again this is the folder where ARC gets installed, not the folder that results from downloading ARC V1.2.8.1 so you can do the install.


If those two files are not in there, copy just those two files in there from your original ARC install CD. These two files have names that include the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC mic.


-----------------------------------


Don't connect the computer to the Anthem yet.


Power cycle the Anthem using the normal power off and ALSO using the back panel power switch.


Make sure you have fresh batteries in the Anthem remote. Many reports of sluggish response from the Anthem are simply due to low batteries in the remote.


If the Anthem is still sluggish responding to the remote, and if you have a good set of SAVED USER SETTINGS, use the Front Panel to do a Reload Factory Defaults. Then power cycle the Anthem AGAIN. This will also turn off ARC processing in the Anthem.


Is it still sluggish when it comes back up (still with factory defaults)? If so, call Anthem tech support so they can walk you through re-installing the firmware in the Anthem (which may be tricky if the Anthem is not talking to your computer properly).


------------------------------------------


If the Anthem performance is back to normal, reconnect your computer and fire up ARC V1.2.8.1 in Advance mode and do an Erase function. This will remove the prior ARC Upload from the Anthem.


Now Reload Saved User Settings in the Anthem to get back your prior settings (except no ARC, since it is saved separately and you just erased its data).


Things still working OK in the Anthem (except no ARC results installed)? If so, then re-create your ARC V1.2.8.1 results afresh (don't use your prior V1.2.8.1 results file) and Upload the new results.


If things are still working well after this then remember to Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture all this.


--------------------------------------------------


I suspect that your computer was sending random commands to the Anthem over the serial connection and that's why the Anthem was responding strangely to remote control commands.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15035063
> 
> 
> Well it looks like this has bricked my unit. Now nothing works and the source switching and remote commands are very slow and no sound comes out. Any suggestions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Tried to reinstall firmware but it now says "failure to enter and exit debug mode" Is there a reset on this unit?



You may need to use the Flash Erase application (from Anthem) to reset the Anthem so that you can re-install the firmware, but try the steps in my previous post first.


If the steps in my previous post don't work, and if you can hold off, don't do the Flash Erase until AFTER you talk to Anthem tech support as it will also erase any clues that might be in there as to what went wrong.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

did the reinstall and files were there. reloaded factory defaults and batteries and unit is still sluggish and no sound from it. Will try firmware again but not very hopeful at this point.

thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15035433
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> did the reinstall and files were there. reloaded factory defaults and batteries and unit is still sluggish and no sound from it. Will try firmware again but not very hopeful at this point.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



Yeah, it appears that the ARC V1.2.8.1 Upload mangled something in the unit's firmware that it shouldn't have touched. You really should give Anthem a call about this on Monday.


Odds are that you'll be able to recover using the Flash Eraser and a re-install of the V1.33 firmware.


When re-installing the firmware, don't skip any steps. In particular, do a Reload Factory Defaults before re-installing (if you haven't already Flash Erased), and make sure you don't have any powered HDMI connections during the firmware install.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I have loaded factory defaults but haven't flash erased. Will talk to Anthem tomorrow and hopefully they can walk me through it. Funny that only my ipod hooked up by the cd analog input works, everything else a no go.

John


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15034894
> 
> 
> I just recalc'd and uploaded with 1.28.1 and everything worked great - sounds great too.



Same experience here!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick commented to me that we may hear a subtle change in bass in the ARC V1.2.8 stuff, but so far I can't detect any difference. I do like how my Center speaker is responding to my having raised the Max EQ Target Frequency to 20KHz.


However as usual, whenever your audio setup becomes more revealing, you are also going to hear more of the flaws in less than perfect content.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15036455
> 
> 
> However as usual, whenever your audio setup becomes more revealing, you are also going to hear more of the flaws in less than perfect content.
> 
> --Bob



That is so true - what a crazy hobby we have all chosen!


----------



## jayray

Bob,

you mentioned I could use the flash eraser program if nothing else works, but if I cannot communicate with the AVM 50 through my computer, how will the program work?

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15039454
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> you mentioned I could use the flash eraser program if nothing else works, but if I cannot communicate with the AVM 50 through my computer, how will the program work?
> 
> John



If needed - NICK - can lead you to a special BUTTON inside to Push


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15039917
> 
> 
> If needed - NICK - can lead you to a special BUTTON inside to Push



I think its not a button but two leads that you have to short while power is off and then turning power back again.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/15040444
> 
> 
> I think its not a button but two leads that you have to short while power is off and then turning power back again.



All I know is there is something INSIDE.


I have never had to do it - so the SECRET has never been revealed to me.


----------



## dschamis

Does anyone know if dealers are taking orders yet for a v2 upgrade? I have of course come full circle in my thinking and am now ready to pull the trigger ASAP.


My main reasons (in no particular order):


- HDMI 1.3 - allows me to pass DSD from a SACD digitally - seems long overdue


- 7 channel audio - I've got 7 speakers; I've got the PS3 - also seems long overdue, even if it won't be nearly as useful as it would seem anytime soon


- 8 HDMIs - even though I don't need them right now, if I have them I will find something to do with them, and in the end that will be a good thing


- Most importantly, I will go crazy reading about all you guys with the v2 if I don't have one as well - I know it sounds childish, but this is my one outlet!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15040650
> 
> 
> All I know is there is something INSIDE.
> 
> 
> I have never had to do it - so the SECRET has never been revealed to me.



Nick said there is a place inside to do this. Computers have a jumper inside that if shorted erases the cmos. Similar here. He said if flash eraser doesn't do the trick, to bring it in and they will do it. If comfortable doing it they could walk me through. Will try flash eraser tonight









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Your computer is talking to the Anthem, it is just that the Anthem is not accepting the new firmware install.


So the Flash Eraser application should function.

--Bob


----------



## Axatax




> Quote:
> - HDMI 1.3 - allows me to pass DSD from a SACD digitally - seems long overdue



Can the Anthem actually receive *DSD* over HDMI, or does SACD have to be sent as LPCM? I don't think the D2 has a DSD decoder (or alternately, DSD capable DACS)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The current Anthems can not handle HDMI DSD input.


There's nothing in the v.2 product press release from back in September mentioning addition of DSD support, and I don't believe we've had any statements from Anthem contacts on this since then.


I don't know if the new DSP setup in the v.2 products can do DSD decoding or if the DACs could handle undecoded DSD conversion to analog.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Axatax* /forum/post/15042162
> 
> 
> Can the Anthem actually receive *DSD* over HDMI, or does SACD have to be sent as LPCM? I don't think the D2 has a DSD decoder (or alternately, DSD capable DACS)?



It is not in the plan for the V2. Your best solution is a low cost SACD transport that support PCM over HDMI of decoded DSD. The Oppo 980H is a good solution.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15042424
> 
> 
> It is not in the plan for the V2. Your best solution is a low cost SACD transport that support PCM over HDMI of decoded DSD. The Oppo 980H is a good solution.



Let me be more clear on what I think I want - maybe I'm wrong about this.


I already have the Oppo 980H. I was under the assumption that with v2 which has HMDI 1.3, I would be able to pass the digital signal (in whatever digital format it passes as) to the Anthem, without any degradation. Isn't that what HMDI 1.2 and higher is supposed to do? I can do PCM now but that degrades the signal, right?


----------



## jayray

Bob,

eraser worked and 1.33 firmware is now installed







have to enter settings before loading arc. thanks for the help as usual.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15042950
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> eraser worked and 1.33 firmware is now installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> have to enter settings before loading arc. thanks for the help as usual.
> 
> John



John, your last set of Saved User Settings may still be in there despite the Flash Eraser. I'm not sure about that, but it's worth a try.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15042597
> 
> 
> Let me be more clear on what I think I want - maybe I'm wrong about this.
> 
> 
> I already have the Oppo 980H. I was under the assumption that with v2 which has HMDI 1.3, I would be able to pass the digital signal (in whatever digital format it passes as) to the Anthem, without any degradation. Isn't that what HMDI 1.2 and higher is supposed to do? I can do PCM now but that degrades the signal, right?



It's a conversion step. High bandwidth LPCM is certainly capable of holding all of the information content of the DSD coming off the disc. And most receivers that accept DSD as an input format convert it internally to LPCM as their first step anyway.


Purists would like the DSD kept *AS* DSD until it can be handed off to the final DACs for direct conversion to analog.


That would be a type of digital "source direct" which would mean, among other things, that you couldn't do ARC processing on that type of input. [ARC works on LPCM data.]


I doubt Anthem would implement direct pass through of DSD input to the analog output DACs. They MIGHT implement HDMI DSD input with internal conversion to LPCM (which would be done at 192KHz). Conceivably, but not likely, that might make for a difference compared to using a player which itself converts the DSD off the disc to LPCM and sends HDMI LPCM to the Anthem. But I seriously doubt folks would hear a difference (other than that which comes from wishful thinking).

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15042597
> 
> 
> Let me be more clear on what I think I want - maybe I'm wrong about this.
> 
> 
> I already have the Oppo 980H. I was under the assumption that with v2 which has HMDI 1.3, I would be able to pass the digital signal (in whatever digital format it passes as) to the Anthem, without any degradation. Isn't that what HMDI 1.2 and higher is supposed to do? I can do PCM now but that degrades the signal, right?



HDMI 1.2 and higher allows the transmission of DSD (SACDs native format) but there is nothing to indicate that the V2 upgrade can process the DSD even if it could receive it. According to Tolstoi's post it will not support DSD processing. Just because it is in the spec doesn't mean it is implemented.


----------



## jayray

Bob,

just entered my setup settings from paper backup. Tried ARC 1.28.1 and it could not find my unit. Installed 1.2.5 and everything went fine. Will stick with this until this version gets better. Nick said it wasn't even Beta but Alpha









John


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15043064
> 
> 
> I doubt Anthem would implement direct pass through of DSD input to the analog output DACs. They MIGHT implement HDMI DSD input with internal conversion to LPCM (which would be done at 192KHz). Conceivably, but not likely, that might make for a difference compared to using a player which itself converts the DSD off the disc to LPCM and sends HDMI LPCM to the Anthem. But I seriously doubt folks would hear a difference (other than that which comes from wishful thinking).
> 
> --Bob



But the current D2 doesn't allow for the passing of LPCM from SACD, does it?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15043636
> 
> 
> But the current D2 doesn't allow for the passing of LPCM from SACD, does it?



With the PS3, you can pass multichannel LPCM from SACD's to the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15043636
> 
> 
> But the current D2 doesn't allow for the passing of LPCM from SACD, does it?



Yes, if the SACD player outputs high bandwidth multi-channel HDMI LPCM (as for example the Oppo players), then that works just fine even with the current D2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15043395
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> just entered my setup settings from paper backup. Tried ARC 1.28.1 and it could not find my unit. Installed 1.2.5 and everything went fine. Will stick with this until this version gets better. Nick said it wasn't even Beta but Alpha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Jayray, I'm wondering if perhaps you got a bad download of the ARC V1.2.8.1 software. It really shouldn't be having that kind of trouble given that your serial connection is working for other purposes (such as the firmware install you just completed).

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15043064
> 
> 
> It's a conversion step. High bandwidth LPCM is certainly capable of holding all of the information content of the DSD coming off the disc. And most receivers that accept DSD as an input format convert it internally to LPCM as their first step anyway.
> 
> 
> Purists would like the DSD kept *AS* DSD until it can be handed off to the final DACs for direct conversion to analog.
> 
> 
> That would be a type of digital "source direct" which would mean, among other things, that you couldn't do ARC processing on that type of input. [ARC works on LPCM data.]
> 
> 
> I doubt Anthem would implement direct pass through of DSD input to the analog output DACs. They MIGHT implement HDMI DSD input with internal conversion to LPCM (which would be done at 192KHz). Conceivably, but not likely, that might make for a difference compared to using a player which itself converts the DSD off the disc to LPCM and sends HDMI LPCM to the Anthem. But I seriously doubt folks would hear a difference (other than that which comes from wishful thinking).
> 
> --Bob



Bingo. If one wants to avoid PCM and go directly from DSD to analog, use the analog connection.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15044238
> 
> 
> Yes, if the SACD player outputs high bandwidth multi-channel HDMI LPCM (as for example the Oppo players), then that works just fine even with the current D2.
> 
> --Bob



Wow - I didn't realize that - I gave up on SACD a while ago and stopped paying attention - little did I know I already had all the ingredients.


Anybody want to buy a NAD SACD player?


----------



## jayray

everything is now working. May try 1.2.8.1 again but will download again if I do try again.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15042597
> 
> 
> Let me be more clear on what I think I want - maybe I'm wrong about this.
> 
> 
> I already have the Oppo 980H. I was under the assumption that with v2 which has HMDI 1.3, I would be able to pass the digital signal (in whatever digital format it passes as) to the Anthem, without any degradation. Isn't that what HMDI 1.2 and higher is supposed to do? I can do PCM now but that degrades the signal, right?



The OPPO 980 and 983 both can use HDMI for SACD.

From OPPO Specifications


"High-resolution multi-channel digital audio output through HDMI supporting CD, DVD-Audio, SACD, Dolby Digital and DTS sound tracks. (Requires compatible A/V receiver)"


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Both of those Oppo players do this by converting the SACD DSD format off the disc into HDMI LPCM for output.

--Bob


----------



## EL

from oppo's web site for the 980:


> Quote:
> Direct Stream Digital (DSD) over HDMI (Requires compatible A/V receiver)


----------



## jayray

Bob,

tried new download of 1.2.8.1 and it still cannot see the AVM50. Put 1.25 back and everything is working. Did new measurements and it sounds even better









John


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15042597
> 
> 
> Let me be more clear on what I think I want - maybe I'm wrong about this.
> 
> 
> I already have the Oppo 980H. I was under the assumption that with v2 which has HMDI 1.3, I would be able to pass the digital signal (in whatever digital format it passes as) to the Anthem, without any degradation. Isn't that what HMDI 1.2 and higher is supposed to do? I can do PCM now but that degrades the signal, right?



The problem with DSD is bass management. As soon you need to apply bass management you endup in PCM world. The D2V2 will not support Native DSD format audio manipulation. You either feed it in PCM or as mentioned by Kal via analogue. I have the 980H and would not trust the quality of its analogue stage. Furthermore, as soon you hit the D2, you are then resample so it can apply bass management. You must resample in the D2 for bass managementm, unless you do bass management in the 980H which is not great neither since it will convert DSD to PCM to be able to do the bass management.


Unless you get an expensive SACD player that will provide a great analogue and bass management in DSD world, I personally believe going PCM over HDMI is currently the best compromise.


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Got this email from Nick re: the problem with 1.2.8.1 and recognition of my AVM50,


"problem has been identified. A simple typo in the AVM 50 model ID check!"

I wasn't crazy









John


----------



## TJG55

Had a client p/u AVN-50 ARC snd got these curves. (Can't attach ARC file...please remind me of procedure) What's up?

Have never seen anything like it, having done 9-10 set-ups. Note all 5 main spks have same 15k dip.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15046239
> 
> 
> Both of those Oppo players do this by converting the SACD DSD format off the disc into HDMI LPCM for output.
> 
> --Bob



They can but the 980 can also output the DSD directly.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15049377
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Got this email from Nick re: the problem with 1.2.8.1 and recognition of my AVM50,
> 
> 
> "problem has been identified. A simple typo in the AVM 50 model ID check!"
> 
> I wasn't crazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Cool! Since it was confused about the type of hardware you had, that may also explain how it bricked your unit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/15049470
> 
> 
> Had a client p/u AVN-50 ARC snd got these curves. (Can't attach ARC file...please remind me of procedure) What's up?
> 
> Have never seen anything like it, having done 9-10 set-ups. Note all 5 main spks have same 15k dip.



There should be an "Attach Files" item in the "Additional Options" section below where you type in your message text. Note that there a limited number of file types you can attach. If that's not there, you may not have enough posts yet to enable the file attachment privilege.


Of course you will have to Screen Capture the chart images on your computer rather than posting the ARC file itself.


You can also upload the screen captures of the charts to a free image hosting service like photobucket and then use the "IMG" tagged link photobucket provides to embed the image in your post (so it shows up inside the post when people view your post, rather than a link for them to click on).


---------------------------------------


I'm guessing since we can't see the charts yet, but if you meant all the main speakers have a dip around 15KHz, that could be due to how they are pointed. This is particularly likely if they are mounted well above or below seated ear height since many speakers have poorer high frequency dispersion in the vertical direction.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/15049593
> 
> 
> They can but the 980 can also output the DSD directly.



Ah! I hadn't realized that.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

If I try the new ARC, do I have to remeasure or can I use my one from yesterday but change the targets and do a new calculation?

John


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/15049593
> 
> 
> They can but the 980 can also output the DSD directly.



To benefit from this you need a Pre/pro or rceiver that receive DSD and perform bass management in DSD domain. Not a lot of candidat around.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15049703
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> If I try the new ARC, do I have to remeasure or can I use my one from yesterday but change the targets and do a new calculation?
> 
> John



If the Measurements you produced yesterday were from ARC V1.2.5 then you are good to go. I wouldn't trust any Measurements you might have made with either the ARC V1.2.8 or V1.2.8.1 stuff since it was confused about which type of Anthem hardware you have.


To use a set of V1.2.5 Measurements, make a copy of the file (so you still retain your V1.2.5 results in case you want them later), open the copy in the new ARC in Advanced mode, go to Targets, do an Auto Detect to see if the new ARC decides different crossover values are better than what V1.2.5 chose, make any other manual Targets changes you think are needed, accept those changes, Calculate, and Upload.


Then check your Setup menu to see if everything looks good and finally Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the Upload settings results.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

have uploaded ARC files before but forgot method...did not require secondary program. Attach window doesn't have arc choice


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I wonder how long that hardware ID typo has been in the ARC code? I'm thinking it might be related to the rare cases we've had reported here previously of ARC Uploads causing the Anthem Setup settings to revert to defaults.


By the way, I suspect what's actually going on when that happens is that something screwy gets put into the Setup settings, and the Anthem detects that when it tries to load them at power up. Then, rather than just refusing to power up, it loads the Factory Defaults settings instead as a safe fallback. This is why most people find they can work past this simply by doing a reload of their last set of Saved User or Installer settings to overwrite whatever Setup setting got corrupted.


In any event, I'm hoping the fix for JAYRAY's problem may finally squish this bug.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/15049845
> 
> 
> have uploaded ARC files before but forgot method...did not require secondary program. Attach window doesn't have arc choice



You need to do the keyboard command in Windows to "screen capture" the active window (i.e., the ARC application window showing the ARC charts). See Windows Help under "screen capture" to find the keyboard command.


Depending on which version of Windows you are using, this will either create an image file on your desktop, or will put the image in the Clipboard so you can paste it into an application like Windows Paint (which is bundled with Windows) or Microsoft Word -- Paste the image in and Save the file from that application.


This new file with the image in it is the thing you want to attach to posts here, not the ARC data file. You will likely need to do 2 screen captures to 2 files to get all the charts -- scrolling the lower charts into view in the ARC window before doing the second screen capture.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello Bob,


Reading the latest articles I have the feeling that the latest ARC is not that bad after all.

Since I was already expecting such a change in ARC as I use the Music profile in stereo only (no sub) I thought i might give it a try.

I thought that this time I would run the latest version for measuring too and not only for loading an older measurement file.

Because if i am not mistaken this time the music profile being set for 2 speakers only this will free some resources from the calculation load. Right?


Well, what do you think of that?


P.S: I also expect this re-measurement to solve the loud pops when used at high volumes.


Thank you


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15049709
> 
> 
> To benefit from this you need a Pre/pro or rceiver that receive DSD and perform bass management in DSD domain. Not a lot of candidat around.



Granted but there are a few. More coming at CES, I bet.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

xtrips,

I don't really know where your loud pops are coming from, but what you are doing with the No Subwoofer music configuration is exercising NEW CODE in this "test" ARC software so you should be prepared for surprises. I.e., play loud passages at low volume at least to start.


I suspect we'll see a new "test" version shortly that fixes Jayray's hardware ID bug. So you might want to wait a couple days for that.


--------------------------


I suspect that resources are not moved from speaker channel to speaker channel, but rather that there's a certain amount of processing that can happen on each channel. Which means eliminating speakers doesn't boost the processing on the remaining channels.


But the subwoofer case is special, so perhaps you are right.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/15049939
> 
> 
> Granted but there are a few. More coming at CES, I bet.



The last gasp of specialized SACD hardware before audio-only Blu-Ray starts being marketed?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In case it isn't obvious, let me just state this clearly:

*Folks with AVM-50/ARC hardware should *NOT* try the "test" ARC V1.2.8 or V1.2.8.1 versions.*


Wait for a newer "test" version that fixes the hardware ID problem Jayray found.


ETA: I don't know if there is a difference here between factory produced AVM-50/ARC units and units upgraded in the field from AVM-50 to AVM-50/ARC. But it's probably best for all AVM-50/ARC users to hold off for now.

****************************************************


UPDATE (11-13-08): This problem has apparently been fixed in "test" ARC V1.2.10.


****************************************************

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15050029
> 
> 
> The last gasp of specialized SACD hardware before audio-only Blu-Ray starts being marketed?
> 
> --Bob



Mebbe. I cannot see the future.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Kal,

It makes sense to me. The marketing push for Blu-Ray Profile 3.0 stuff probably won't begin until Christmas 2009 with the big push in 2010.


In any event, I suspect 2009 may be the best year to buy SACD related hardware -- mature technology at increasingly reasonable prices as manufacturers try to get what they can out of that market before the changeover.


I wonder how many folks who just purchased "bitstream decoding" receivers can be tempted to replace them with "DSD direct processing" receivers (that also still do "bitstream decoding")?

--Bob


----------



## LS2JSTS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15050109
> 
> 
> Kal,
> 
> It makes sense to me. The marketing push for Blu-Ray Profile 3.0 stuff probably won't begin until Christmas 2009 with the big push in 2010.
> 
> 
> In any event, I suspect 2009 may be the best year to buy SACD related hardware -- mature technology at increasingly reasonable prices as manufacturers try to get what they can out of that market before the changeover.
> 
> 
> I wonder how many folks who just purchased "bitstream decoding" receivers can be tempted to replace them with "DSD direct processing" receivers?
> 
> --Bob



You echo my thoughts exactly. I plan to get a new XA5400ES and horde it away somewhere....


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I also wonder how much the downturn in the auto industry will affect the roll-out of Blu-Ray Profile 3.0, since factory and aftermarket auto installs are such a big percentage of the audio-only player market.


SACD and DVD-Audio could never tap that market, but I'm sure the Blu-Ray consortium was expecting it to be a big deal for their roll-out.


But all sorts of plans for the next two years will have to adjust to the new economic realities.


-----------------------------------------


Anyway, back on topic, I'll be very surprised if the Anthem v.2 products offer ANY sort of "DSD direct" audio -- either unprocessed to the DACs or processed while staying in DSD. But I would not be at all surprised to see the v.2 products include DSD input converted internally to LPCM. Since the D2 v.2 upsamples to 192KHz, it might even be a differentiator -- i.e., offered in the D2 v.2 but not in the AVM-50 v.2.


If the hardware will support DSD to LPCM conversion (and I suspect it will), this might be something added in future firmware after the v.2 launch.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

B

see if this works.

 

McNabb ARC plot.pdf 412.1787109375k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes, that works. Hang on while I give it a look...

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Asked Nick if correction for ARC 1.2.8.1 would be downloadable now, but here is his response:

"not yet, next version will be getting other changes. Trying to get a bass algorithm that'll keep the worst case while not affecting the rest."


----------



## Bob Pariseau

TJG55,

Well you are down about 8dB at 15KHz in all the main speakers. This could be a characteristic of the speakers, but it could also be a pointing error.


Also do the basics of putting your ear near the tweeter to make sure it is getting audio and double check that there are no high frequency response settings on the speaker that might be improperly set.


When doing the ARC Measurements, make sure all of the mic positions are at seated ear height and that the tip of the mic is not up against or shadowed by the back of the chair. Raise the mic tip to clear the back of the chair or move it forward (away from the chair back) by a foot or so.


ARC should be able to correct up to 6dB of that if you raise the Max EQ Frequency target in the Targets window above the default 5KHz -- perhaps to 15KHz or so. You can do some test calculations with different Targets settings without having to re-Measure. Watch for an increase in errors in lower frequencies of the Calculated results as an indication you might be pushing it too far.


---------------------------------------


Meanwhile you appear to have a pretty deep room "Null" around 150Hz to 180Hz. The Center speaker is getting the worst of this -- over 12dB down. ARC can not correct all of that.


Again, do the basics just in case this is a speaker issue and not a room issue. Make sure the speakers are wired correctly -- particularly if they have separate inputs for the different frequency drivers. For example, bi-wired speakers with the wires reversed for one driver can produce phase cancellation at the crossover between drivers. Also check to see if there is any frequency response setting for the low mid-range that might be improperly set. These speakers may also have a bass port that can be opened.


The subwoofer appears OK.


---------------------------------------------


ARC has pretty much corrected things except for that 150Hz problem in the Center speaker.


So consider if you need to repoint the speakers to deal with the 15KHz issue (particularly if they are mounted high) or if you need to re-Measure based on mic positioning.


And try some Calculation experiments with a higher Max EQ Frequency Target to see what help you can get from ARC with the 15KHz issue without further messing up the lower frequencies. At the default 5KHz setting, ARC is applying no correction for issues at frequencies above 5KHz.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Speakers are all Paradigm Studio, 100s, cc690. adp 590. All new but 100s checked out prior with no anomalies present. Very mysterious that ALL of them show same 15k drop. maybe a HF gererating device in room? Faulty piece of equip?


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15050013
> 
> 
> xtrips,
> 
> I don't really know where your loud pops are coming from, but what you are doing with the No Subwoofer music configuration is exercising NEW CODE in this "test" ARC software so you should be prepared for surprises. I.e., play loud passages at low volume at least to start.
> 
> 
> I suspect we'll see a new "test" version shortly that fixes Jayray's hardware ID bug. So you might want to wait a couple days for that.
> 
> 
> --------------------------
> 
> 
> I suspect that resources are not moved from speaker channel to speaker channel, but rather that there's a certain amount of processing that can happen on each channel. Which means eliminating speakers doesn't boost the processing on the remaining channels.
> 
> 
> But the subwoofer case is special, so perhaps you are right.
> 
> --Bob



Well, Bob, I took your warnings pretty seriously so:

- I did a backup on the D2

- Another backup of my ARC 1.2.5 setup files

- And another of my old 1.2.5 measurement

Just in case...

Then... I monitored my volume level all along and started to work on 1.2.9 aka 1.2.8.1

So here are my results:

- You were right about the Xover set on the D2, they are different. Now mine are around 60~65Hz all over (7.1 config)

- The music profile when set to stereo only leaves the front speakers set to "Advanced" but with no sub. Which is good.

- My gain for 7.1 movies was set to 3.9 and music to 0.7 so I took an old advise you gave me and raised my music gain to 3.

- Although there was no sub for music, ARC set my front speakers target frequency to 55 (?!). I reset it to 25 before I started calculating.

- The loud pops have disapeared







)

- My movie profile sounds the same as before, I think...

- My stereo music profile sounds HUMONGOUSLY BEAUTIFUL, I LOVE IT







))))


----------



## Bob Pariseau

xtrips,

For Music, remember what the release notes said for your 2.0 configuration. Even though there is no subwoofer, ARC applies a low frequency contour to your main speakers. So you need to manually reset the crossover for those back to 25Hz in the ARC Targets window and re-calculate. However, ARC will Upload a proper 2.0 configuration so there's no additional step you need to do in you Setup menu after the Upload.


It looks like you may have already done that judging from the Targets curves for Music, but just checking to make sure. You've got a deep hole in your room response at 30Hz, but you already know that. Except for that your Music Calculated curves look very good.


--------------------------------------------


Your Movie curves look good too, and the new crossovers should work well for you.


Your Center speaker Measures very hot from 40Hz to 120Hz and that's left some residual oscillations in the Calculated curve for Center. Particularly the swing between 70Hz and 80Hz of about 6dB.


If you can tone down that portion of the Measured curve for Center that would improve things. You also might want to try pulling back on the Max EQ Frequency Target to see if Center improves in those lower frequencies. It looks like you've got that Target pretty close to 20KHz right now.


That range around 70-80Hz is worth some effort to improve -- lots of content in there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/15050647
> 
> 
> Speakers are all Paradigm Studio, 100s, cc690. adp 590. All new but 100s checked out prior with no anomalies present. Very mysterious that ALL of them show same 15k drop. maybe a HF gererating device in room? Faulty piece of equip?



I don't have any good suggestions for you on that other than checking their pointing and your method of setting the mic for ARC Measurements. Perhaps some of the other folks in here with more experience with room effects and room treatment can chime in.


One thing I do want to double check, though, since you are doing setups for different clients. You do know that you have to use the microphone that came with the licensing/calibration files for each ARC setup, right? You can't use one ARC mic for different setups because the calibration data locked to the serial number of the Anthem is specific to the mic that came with that particular Anthem's ARC kit. ARC will prevent you from using the wrong files for a given Anthem, but it has no way to know if you mistakenly use the wrong ARC mic taken from a different ARC kit.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/15050647
> 
> 
> Speakers are all Paradigm Studio, 100s, cc690. adp 590. All new but 100s checked out prior with no anomalies present. Very mysterious that ALL of them show same 15k drop. maybe a HF gererating device in room? Faulty piece of equip?



Looking at the stereophile review of your speakers, their measurement also seem to show a dip in the high frequency off axis. Have you tried to toed in your speaker ?


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/15050647
> 
> 
> Speakers are all Paradigm Studio, 100s, cc690. adp 590. All new but 100s checked out prior with no anomalies present. Very mysterious that ALL of them show same 15k drop. maybe a HF gererating device in room? Faulty piece of equip?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/15052661
> 
> 
> Looking at the stereophile review of your speakers, their measurement also seem to show a dip in the high frequency off axis. Have you tried to toed in your speaker ?



Yes. I get a somewhat different roll-off with my Paradigms but that is why I had to use more HF EQ with ARC.


----------



## abc999

 Attachment 124233 

Attachment 124234 



Here's my new mesurements with arc1.29

 

110808c.doc 160k . file

 

110808m.doc 82.5k . file


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15052084
> 
> 
> xtrips,
> 
> For Music, remember what the release notes said for your 2.0 configuration. Even though there is no subwoofer, ARC applies a low frequency contour to your main speakers. So you need to manually reset the crossover for those back to 25Hz in the ARC Targets window and re-calculate. However, ARC will Upload a proper 2.0 configuration so there's no additional step you need to do in you Setup menu after the Upload.
> 
> 
> It looks like you may have already done that judging from the Targets curves for Music, but just checking to make sure. You've got a deep hole in your room response at 30Hz, but you already know that. Except for that your Music Calculated curves look very good.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Your Movie curves look good too, and the new crossovers should work well for you.
> 
> 
> Your Center speaker Measures very hot from 40Hz to 120Hz and that's left some residual oscillations in the Calculated curve for Center. Particularly the swing between 70Hz and 80Hz of about 6dB.
> 
> 
> If you can tone down that portion of the Measured curve for Center that would improve things. You also might want to try pulling back on the Max EQ Frequency Target to see if Center improves in those lower frequencies. It looks like you've got that Target pretty close to 20KHz right now.
> 
> 
> That range around 70-80Hz is worth some effort to improve -- lots of content in there.
> 
> --Bob



Quote:"If you can tone down that portion of the Measured curve for Center that would improve things."


How do I achieve that?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/15050070
> 
> 
> Mebbe. I cannot see the future.




The future is the download of High Resolution FLACs. Hopefully DRM free such as Linnrecord.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15050227
> 
> 
> I also wonder how much the downturn in the auto industry will affect the roll-out of Blu-Ray Profile 3.0, since factory and aftermarket auto installs are such a big percentage of the audio-only player market.
> 
> 
> SACD and DVD-Audio could never tap that market, but I'm sure the Blu-Ray consortium was expecting it to be a big deal for their roll-out.
> 
> 
> But all sorts of plans for the next two years will have to adjust to the new economic realities.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Anyway, back on topic, I'll be very surprised if the Anthem v.2 products offer ANY sort of "DSD direct" audio -- either unprocessed to the DACs or processed while staying in DSD. But I would not be at all surprised to see the v.2 products include DSD input converted internally to LPCM. Since the D2 v.2 upsamples to 192KHz, it might even be a differentiator -- i.e., offered in the D2 v.2 but not in the AVM-50 v.2.
> 
> 
> If the hardware will support DSD to LPCM conversion (and I suspect it will), this might be something added in future firmware after the v.2 launch.
> 
> --Bob



I seriously doubt small disk producer will convert from producing SACD to BD Audio. This is a really small market better achieved using downloads.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15054934
> 
> 
> Quote:"If you can tone down that portion of the Measured curve for Center that would improve things."
> 
> 
> How do I achieve that?



I'm not sure. It might respond to some bass trapping behind it or perhaps a bit more spacing away from whatever vertical surface is behind it and/or any shelf underneath it.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15057227
> 
> 
> I'm not sure. It might respond to some bass trapping behind it or perhaps a bit more spacing away from whatever vertical surface is behind it and/or any shelf underneath it.
> 
> --Bob



Well, actually, it is a new center i just bought. Both the top and the underneath surface are curved, and it has no legs, spikes or whatever.

And it is laid on a glass shelve, itself being on a tripod with spikes.

The whole set (tripod + center) is just in front, and a bit below a very large fixed projection screen.


So what improvement do you think would be best?


----------



## Axatax

What is Anthem's current plans for the D1? Any chance of a revamped version with HDMI audio, but without the video processor (aka D1v2)?


This is apparently still a current product, but I can't see why someone would opt for this model over a D2 - but, an audio-only HDMI unit would be very appealing for those who have separate video processors (and the D2 lacking a true video passthrough).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/15054294
> 
> Attachment 124233
> 
> Attachment 124234
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my new mesurements with arc1.29



For Music, you've got essentially no Room Gain (the gradual hump near the crossovers). I suspect ARC is getting confused by the drop in Measured values from 500Hz down to 100Hz and thinks your room has no natural Room Gain to be preserved -- or has a negative Room Gain which makes no sense (so ARC uses 0 instead). I suggest you go into the Targets window and tell ARC to apply a modest amount of Room Gain -- perhaps 2dB or 3dB. Leave the "Forced" box checked.


What are you using for a subwoofer that is producing such flat Measurement from 20Hz to 300Hz? ARC had to tone down the high end of that to keep your sub from becoming too easy to localize. In any event LFE rolls off all by itself above 125Hz. I'm just surprised to see a sub working so hard up that high.


It looks to me like you could raise the Max EQ Frequency Target up to say 15KHz or even 20KHz to clean up that residual dip you've got at around 12KHz.


--------------------------------------


For Movie, the same comments on Room Gain and Max EQ Target Frequency apply.


One real puzzle is that ARC doesn't seem to be applying any correction to your Left Rear speaker except in the tiny range from 100Hz to 200Hz. Now the errors in your uncorrected Measured curve for that speaker are not big, so this is not a huge issue, but I think you may have found a bug in the new ARC code.


Try making the adjustments in Room Gain and Max EQ Target Frequency and Calculate again. If you still see no correction in the Calculated curve across most of the Left Rear speaker frequency range (for example that uncorrected hump between 60Hz and 100Hz) I suggest you email your ARC V1.2.8.1 results file to Nick at Anthem with a suggestion that they look into that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Axatax* /forum/post/15057340
> 
> 
> What is Anthem's current plans for the D1? Any chance of a revamped version with HDMI audio, but without the video processor (aka D1v2)?
> 
> 
> This is apparently still a current product, but I can't see why someone would opt for this model over a D2 - but, an audio-only HDMI unit would be very appealing for those who have separate video processors (and the D2 lacking a true video passthrough).



What you are describing is a Statement series product equivalent to the AVM-40. I suspect Anthem didn't see enough price advantage to try to insert such a product between the D1 and the D2. And of course since Anthem doesn't sell a stand alone video processor they probably want to up-sell people to the D2.


Anyway, to answer your question, we've heard no hints here of such a product being developed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15057301
> 
> 
> Well, actually, it is a new center i just bought. Both the top and the underneath surface are curved, and it has no legs, spikes or whatever.
> 
> And it is laid on a glass shelve, itself being on a tripod with spikes.
> 
> The whole set (tripod + center) is just in front, and a bit below a very large fixed projection screen.
> 
> 
> So what improvement do you think would be best?



Does it have a rear bass port you can close or any other lower frequency response adjustments?


If not, I would start by moving it away from the screen and closer to the front edge of the shelf. That will reduce the reflected bass gain coming off the wall behind it and the shelf underneath it.


I suppose that sitting it on a pad of some sort or mounting a bass trap on the wall behind it would be the next steps. But I'm doing a lot of guessing here. Correcting issues like this is not my area of expertise.


If you don't find an easy answer, you might want to ask in either the speaker forum or the home theater setup and room treatment forum here.


-------------------------------------------------


It could be the case that this speaker is simply designed to run hot in those frequencies. Some folks like a boost like that in their Center channel. Other Center speakers have settings for shelf mount vs. wall mount.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Guys.... I currently have anthem D2 version 1.33 and arc version 1.2.2. Any reason i should upgrade the arc to 1.2.5 - which seems to be the latest on the anthem site?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There have been some bug fixes that may or may not affect you (see the change notes included in the downloaded folder), but beside that, many people here, including me, believe they are hearing improved audio with V1.2.5 over the V1.2.2 stuff.


It's hard to know if that's real, or wishful thinking, or if folks are simply getting better at doing their ARC Measurements. But it seems to be a pretty common result here.


----------------------------


Anthem is in the process of testing a newer version -- currently V1.2.8.1 is the "test" version, and my results with it have been very pleasing indeed -- even better than what I had with V1.2.5. So if you want to hold off for a bit, keep an eye out for when that next version hits the public download page. It will probably be called something like V1.2.9 at that point. My guess would be sometime in December.

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex

Wow...some of you are wicked smart. Where did you learn about all this?


I have a simple question and would appreciate some help. I purchased a AVM 50 for my father 2 years ago. It's the latest version with the Gennum chip. I'd like to buy him the ARC set up for Christmas. I see it costs $700. I also noticed the D2 ARC upgrade is only $399. So what's the difference? Do I have to add some hardware to the AVM 50 to make ARC work?


If so, what is it and is it hard to install? I'm good with my hands and have worked on PC's before. Could I do it?


I'd really appreciate the info as I'd like to buy this soon for the holidays. Lastly is the consensus on the board that ARC is worth the cost? Is it really that good? I imagine my install would be better than most since I'm not a professional and haven't dialed in my settings. That's why this feature sounds so appealing. I'm all about automation.


Thanks for the help!


Big Tex


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15057376
> 
> 
> For Music, you've got essentially no Room Gain (the gradual hump near the crossovers). I suspect ARC is getting confused by the drop in Measured values from 500Hz down to 100Hz and thinks your room has no natural Room Gain to be preserved -- or has a negative Room Gain which makes no sense (so ARC uses 0 instead). I suggest you go into the Targets window and tell ARC to apply a modest amount of Room Gain -- perhaps 2dB or 3dB. Leave the "Forced" box checked.
> 
> 
> What are you using for a subwoofer that is producing such flat Measurement from 20Hz to 300Hz? ARC had to tone down the high end of that to keep your sub from becoming too easy to localize. In any event LFE rolls off all by itself above 125Hz. I'm just surprised to see a sub working so hard up that high.
> 
> 
> It looks to me like you could raise the Max EQ Frequency Target up to say 15KHz or even 20KHz to clean up that residual dip you've got at around 12KHz.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> For Movie, the same comments on Room Gain and Max EQ Target Frequency apply.
> 
> 
> One real puzzle is that ARC doesn't seem to be applying any correction to your Left Rear speaker except in the tiny range from 100Hz to 200Hz. Now the errors in your uncorrected Measured curve for that speaker are not big, so this is not a huge issue, but I think you may have found a bug in the new ARC code.
> 
> 
> Try making the adjustments in Room Gain and Max EQ Target Frequency and Calculate again. If you still see no correction in the Calculated curve across most of the Left Rear speaker frequency range (for example that uncorrected hump between 60Hz and 100Hz) I suggest you email your ARC V1.2.8.1 results file to Nick at Anthem with a suggestion that they look into that.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I too am puzzled with my room gain (room is heavily treated), with more than 20 measurements to date, my max. room gain is just 1.9 and the minimum around .4 dB. With my present measurement, its around .9 dB.


Witjh regards to the Subs, they are DIY's, 4 of them to be exact. There is a parametric eq between the D2 and the amplifier driving the subs. The high sub response is because there is no crossover on the subs.


I have added 1.6 dB of room gain (2.5 in total for movie) and 0 for music (maybe adding a dB might make the sound more full bodied). quite satisfied with the results but still experimenting.


I will email Nick about my measured results especially the uncorrected left rear speaker at certain frequencies. BTW , previously Nick told me that a room gain of 0 to 6 dB is normal.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15059557
> 
> 
> Wow...some of you are wicked smart. Where did you learn about all this?
> 
> 
> I have a simple question and would appreciate some help. I purchased a AVM 50 for my father 2 years ago. It's the latest version with the Gennum chip. I'd like to buy him the ARC set up for Christmas. I see it costs $700. I also noticed the D2 ARC upgrade is only $399. So what's the difference? Do I have to add some hardware to the AVM 50 to make ARC work?
> 
> 
> If so, what is it and is it hard to install? I'm good with my hands and have worked on PC's before. Could I do it?
> 
> 
> I'd really appreciate the info as I'd like to buy this soon for the holidays. Lastly is the consensus on the board that ARC is worth the cost? Is it really that good? I imagine my install would be better than most since I'm not a professional and haven't dialed in my settings. That's why this feature sounds so appealing. I'm all about automation.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help!
> 
> 
> Big Tex



There is a second dsp chip that would be added to the avm50(like a daughter card) to take advantage of ARC, therefore the added cost.


Is it good? I would not trade it for anything else.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15059557
> 
> 
> Wow...some of you are wicked smart. Where did you learn about all this?
> 
> 
> I have a simple question and would appreciate some help. I purchased a AVM 50 for my father 2 years ago. It's the latest version with the Gennum chip. I'd like to buy him the ARC set up for Christmas. I see it costs $700. I also noticed the D2 ARC upgrade is only $399. So what's the difference? Do I have to add some hardware to the AVM 50 to make ARC work?
> 
> 
> If so, what is it and is it hard to install? I'm good with my hands and have worked on PC's before. Could I do it?
> 
> 
> I'd really appreciate the info as I'd like to buy this soon for the holidays. Lastly is the consensus on the board that ARC is worth the cost? Is it really that good? I imagine my install would be better than most since I'm not a professional and haven't dialed in my settings. That's why this feature sounds so appealing. I'm all about automation.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help!
> 
> 
> Big Tex



The ARC upgrade for the AVM-50 includes a swap out of the DSP board to provide the dual-DSP arrangement that ARC requires. It is a dealer install that is pretty quick, but still you can expect the dealer will want to include a modest labor charge. After the new board is installed you need to reload the latest firmware into the AVM-50 so that it will properly recognize and work with the new hardware.


The rest of the ARC kit is identical to what D2 owners get.


And yes it really is worth it. The audio improvement is quite dramatic for most folks.


Now keep in mind that you have to take some care when you take the Measurements with ARC. And you might find that some speaker repointing or repositioning is called for when you see the ARC results charts. So it is not completely automatic. But all the hard stuff IS automatic, and we can help you here with any confusion about your part of the job.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/15059871
> 
> 
> BTW , previously Nick told me that a room gain of 0 to 6 dB is normal.



Most people here have been reporting Room Gain values in the 2dB to 4dB range. We've had a few folks like you whose Measured values lead ARC to think the room has only a tiny, natural Room Gain that needs preserving. For those folks, bringing it up to at least 2dB is probably a good idea as the folks who make the content assume each listening room will have some inherent Room Gain.


-------------------------------


Please post back when you find out from Nick why ARC isn't correcting your Left Rear speaker in the "test" software. I suspect it's a bug.

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex

Thanks for the help!


I just spent the past 2 hours reading 100's of posts. I feel like my head is about to explode.


Quick questions.


Does the AVM 50 ARC upgrade board include the new more powerful dual core DSP's? How many DSP's are on the upgraded daughter board? Do I have to replace an existing daughter board (DSP) or is the new board complimentary to the existing board (DSP)?


In the past 2 hours I've read a lot about V2. The only feature that sounds really attractive to me is the 7.1 channel input as I have a 7.1 system. How awesome would it be if the upgraded ARC daughter board included the new DSP's and I could run both the ARC and new 7.1 feature. I'd be Set! No $2500 upgrade. I'm perfectly content with the picture quality of the current video processor. Plus my Dad has a JVC RS-1 that has a built in processor already. Would a new pre-amp processor even help or would the JVC processor down grade the resolution once it reached the projector. I.E. is there any advantage to having a better processor upstream only to have it hit an older processor downstream?


Lastly, are there any features that need to be turned on in the AVM to ensure good ARC measurements and performance? I keep seeing THX EQ mentioned and something else. Is there a ARC cheat sheet that says make sure this is turned on, this is turned off and so on. Like what features on my sub should I turn off? The polarity thing, crank the eq way up, etc?


Thanks for all the help!


----------



## sfm

Looking for some guidance here D2 owner here (connected to a Sharp XV-Z20000 projector) and have a few questions:


1) In the process of trying to replace the PS3/Oppo combination for bluray and dvd's in our home theater with a single device. Am now auditioning the Pioneer BDP-51 and the Panasonic DMP-BD55 and have the following issues:


Pioneer: Set to source direct mode (reason for trying this one  and hdmi colorspace set to auto results in 480i, 4:2:2 being sent to the D2 when playing a DVD (as expected). The problem is that the video is almost black and white with some blue tint (best I can describe it  Bluray discs are fine with these settings. Setting the hdmi colorspace on the Pioneer to 4:4:4 cures the problem for dvd and, fortunately, Bluray still works. Any reason not to use 4:4:4?


Panasonic: when 24p output set to auto/on in the Panasonic, D2 set to edges off (my default for all inputs), Sharp in dot-by-dot mode (the only mode I use), playing a Bluray I get green lines on the right and bottom edges of the picture when 24p output from the Panasonic. I have to set Edges On' to about 3 before they disappear No such problem with the Pioneer or PS3 when they output 24p (crop edges remain off for these two). Am I right to assume this is an issue with the Panasonic and not some handshake issue between it and the D2? I'm also assuming this is bad since the D2 now has to perform scaling whereas with edges off there is no scaling taking place (or is that an incorrect assumption?)


As an aside, it looks like both may be going back I'm starting to doubt the Pioneer will ever be updated to decode DTS-MA and the 24p issue with the Panasonic looks to be a deal breaker. I may just remove the Oppo and return to the PS3 exclusively until some manufacturer learns how to actually implement a decent Bluray/dvd player (Oppo perhaps?). Good lord, 2 years after Bluray introduction and these guys (Pioneer, Panasonic, Samsung, et al.) still can't get it right.


2) Just replaced our little 10 sub with a dual Rythmik F12 setup when performing Arc measurements should I connect both or just one for the measurements?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15060292
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help!
> 
> 
> I just spent the past 2 hours reading 100's of posts. I feel like my head is about to explode.
> 
> 
> Quick questions.
> 
> 
> Does the AVM 50 ARC upgrade board include the new more powerful dual core DSP's? How many DSP's are on the upgraded daughter board? Do I have to replace an existing daughter board (DSP) or is the new board complimentary to the existing board (DSP)?
> 
> 
> In the past 2 hours I've read a lot about V2. The only feature that sounds really attractive to me is the 7.1 channel input as I have a 7.1 system. How awesome would it be if the upgraded ARC daughter board included the new DSP's and I could run both the ARC and new 7.1 feature. I'd be Set! No $2500 upgrade. I'm perfectly content with the picture quality of the current video processor. Plus my Dad has a JVC RS-1 that has a built in processor already. Would a new pre-amp processor even help or would the JVC processor down grade the resolution once it reached the projector. I.E. is there any advantage to having a better processor upstream only to have it hit an older processor downstream?
> 
> 
> Lastly, are there any features that need to be turned on in the AVM to ensure good ARC measurements and performance? I keep seeing THX EQ mentioned and something else. Is there a ARC cheat sheet that says make sure this is turned on, this is turned off and so on. Like what features on my sub should I turn off? The polarity thing, crank the eq way up, etc?
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the help!



The ARC upgrade does not enable 7.1 input. That requires a replacement of the video board (which is what will happen with the v.2 upgrade) as the HDMI circuits are on that board.


The DSP board in the AVM-50 is replaced by a new DSP board as part of the upgrade.


Check out the first post in this thread. You'll find a collection of links to posts in this thread that I call "The Good Parts Version". Look for the collection of ARC related links. There are a lot of them, but most of those posts are short. You'll find all the important stuff in there about how to set up to use ARC.


Check out section 3.15 of the updated users manual (downloadable from the Anthem site) for info on ARC as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/15060345
> 
> 
> Looking for some guidance here D2 owner here (connected to a Sharp XV-Z20000 projector) and have a few questions:
> 
> 
> 1) In the process of trying to replace the PS3/Oppo combination for bluray and dvd's in our home theater with a single device. Am now auditioning the Pioneer BDP-51 and the Panasonic DMP-BD55 and have the following issues:
> 
> 
> Pioneer: Set to source direct mode (reason for trying this one  and hdmi colorspace set to auto results in 480i, 4:2:2 being sent to the D2 when playing a DVD (as expected). The problem is that the video is almost black and white with some blue tint (best I can describe it  Bluray discs are fine with these settings. Setting the hdmi colorspace on the Pioneer to 4:4:4 cures the problem for dvd and, fortunately, Bluray still works. Any reason not to use 4:4:4?
> 
> 
> Panasonic: when 24p output set to auto/on in the Panasonic, D2 set to edges off (my default for all inputs), Sharp in dot-by-dot mode (the only mode I use), playing a Bluray I get green lines on the right and bottom edges of the picture when 24p output from the Panasonic. I have to set Edges On' to about 3 before they disappear No such problem with the Pioneer or PS3 when they output 24p (crop edges remain off for these two). Am I right to assume this is an issue with the Panasonic and not some handshake issue between it and the D2? I'm also assuming this is bad since the D2 now has to perform scaling whereas with edges off there is no scaling taking place (or is that an incorrect assumption?)
> 
> 
> As an aside, it looks like both may be going back I'm starting to doubt the Pioneer will ever be updated to decode DTS-MA and the 24p issue with the Panasonic looks to be a deal breaker. I may just remove the Oppo and return to the PS3 exclusively until some manufacturer learns how to actually implement a decent Bluray/dvd player (Oppo perhaps?). Good lord, 2 years after Bluray introduction and these guys (Pioneer, Panasonic, Samsung, et al.) still can't get it right.
> 
> 
> 2) Just replaced our little 10 sub with a dual Rythmik F12 setup when performing Arc measurements should I connect both or just one for the measurements?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Your ARC question is easier. Power one of your 2 subs at a time when adjusting their volumes and correcting their Polarity/Phase settings for each of them before doing ARC Measurement, but have both of them running while doing ARC Measurement.


-----------------------------------------------


I don't have either of the players you mention, but both problems sound like player problems (firmware or faulty hardware). I suspect we've got posters here who are using each of those players, so perhaps they can comment.

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15060373
> 
> 
> The ARC upgrade does not enable 7.1 input. That requires a replacement of the video board (which is what will happen with the v.2 upgrade) as the HDMI circuits are on that board.
> 
> 
> The DSP board in the AVM-50 is replaced by a new DSP board as part of the upgrade.
> 
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob! Does the new DSP board replace an existing board/processor or compliment the existing processor? What else do I get with the new DSP board...feature wise? Will Anthem sell me the video board upgrade later by itself if and when I want to do that? Is that option priced? If not should I go ahead and get the V2 upgrade and be done with this... Does the V2 upgrade include ARC?


I'll ck out all the ARC user guides and short cuts on the main page. Thanks....


If Anthem will sell me these parts seperately...that would be wicked cool...


Thanks for all the help!


----------



## Big Tex

Bob,


I can't find the Good Parts Version. Can you please paste a link. I'm not the best with computers.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

"The Good Parts Version" is just my joke name for all the post links we've collected in the first post in this thread. Go to the first post of this thread and find the collection of links in there under the ARC topic. When you work your way through reading those linked posts you'll be about as up to speed on ARC as you can get.


---------------------------------


The new DSP board that comes as part of the AVM-50 ARC upgrade kit replaces the current DSP board in the AVM-50. The only feature it adds is ARC.


The D2 and AVM-50 v.2 products include a new video processor board with new HDMI hardware and also an even newer DSP board. There is also a new back plate on the unit since the number of HDMI sockets is changing. Anthem has given out strong hints that upgrades will be made available to existing D2 and AVM-50 customers, but nothing is finalized yet about either the time frame or the pricing for upgrades. My best guess is that getting a v.2 upgrade will require shipping the unit back to the factory.


Our best guess right now is that the upgrade pricing will be something like $2000 to $2500, but again that is just a guess. One thing that's definitely not clear yet is whether current ARC customers will see any price break when purchasing a v.2 upgrade (which is supposed to include ARC). This is particularly relevant for customers like you who are thinking of shelling out $799 for an AVM-50 ARC upgrade. My guess will be that there's a price break on the $399 portion of that price which is the normal D2 ARC kit, but not for the AVM-50 ARC DSP board (which gets discarded and replaced by the even newer v.2 DSP board).


We've also heard from contacts at Anthem that they want to be able to offer upgrades at the same time that new v.2 products ship. However, realistically I would expect there to be a delay -- with the new-order D2 v.2 shipping before the new-order AVM-50 v.2 and with upgrades for existing D2 or AVM-50 customers following only after that. I don't know how much gap there would be before upgrades became available.


In any event, if an AVM-50 v.2 upgrade is interesting to you, you may want to consider waiting on an AVM-50 ARC upgrade and getting the v.2 upgrade with ARC instead. Or you can get the AVM-50 ARC upgrade now -- realizing that you likely won't recoup $400 of that cost (the ARC DSP board portion of the upgrade cost) if you then decide to do a v.2 upgrade on top of that. And you possibly won't recoup ANY of the original ARC upgrade cost depending on how Anthem ends up pricing v.2 upgrades for customers who have already purchased ARC.


Again, there are no firm answers on any of this yet, and likely won't be until the new v.2 units actually ship.


If you know you want the ARC upgrade now and the v.2 upgrade later, you might be able to work some sort of combo deal with your Anthem dealer at the time you purchase the ARC upgrade, but odds are your Anthem dealer doesn't have any better information than what I've just written here.

--Bob


----------



## msb212

anyone know what the anticipated price to upgrade a D1 to the D2V2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *msb212* /forum/post/15061664
> 
> 
> anyone know what the anticipated price to upgrade a D1 to the D2V2?



Nothing's been finalized, but I suspect it will be close to the price to upgrade a D2 to a D2 v.2 given what gets replaced and added new (we're guessing $2K right now). It will likely be a little higher due to some cables and mounting posts for the video board that don't exist in the D1, and Anthem may also boost the D1 upgrade price a bit to make D2 upgrade customers feel better and to account for the modest additional labor, but I doubt either of those would amount to big differences.


I don't see how Anthem could re-use the hardware they would be taking out of a D2 during the upgrade, so I don't think D2 customers will be getting any special price break due to "trading in" the old video board for example.

--Bob


----------



## msb212

sounds like I did the right thing by waiting...







thanks.


----------



## Big Tex

Wow....waiting now sounds like the best bet. Why wouldn't they make the ARC DSP board upgrade the "New" DSP version? Why even sell an old board (old DSP's) that's being discontinued in the product line. I'd prefer the modular upgrade approach...get the new DSP's today and upgrade the video card later down the road if the need requires. This stinks. I'd buy the ARC upgrade yesterday if it included the new DSP chips. I'm so glad you pointed this out. I'd hate to waste $400 right now.


I'll ping my dealer to see if they can get any details. Doubt it. They're rarely on top of things.


Thanks for all the help!


Big Tex


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well the DSP board that will be part of the v.2 product is not done yet and will undoubtedly be more expensive than the one included in the AVM-50 ARC upgrade (part of the higher price for the v.2 upgrade). It wouldn't make sense to burden ARC upgrade customers with the extra wait and expense. So this is only important if you know you want the v.2 upgrade when it becomes available and are willing to live without ARC for now. And once you've heard what ARC can do, it is tough to live without it.


If you want ARC now, the existing ARC upgrade is the only path.


Even worse off will be customers who recently purchased D1 to D2 upgrades, since that cost will likely not gain them anything towards the cost of an additional v.2 upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## ditcin

Well with all this talk about upgrade and expense is why I sold my Anthem D2. I was using it as part of a reference system in my evaluation of DVDs on my site in exchange for advertising. When I head I would not be given a discount for the upgrade (which I was for the ARC) I said the hell with this. After all, the advertising they were getting was still the same. I was very pissed that when I fist contacted them about the D2 that it would handle all the new audio formats. I was then told an downloadable upgrade would be made available for front readout so it would display when the new audio formats were being decoded/played. Then I was told that wouldn't be the case and the new upgrade would handle it. But, there is no way I'm paying the $2,5000 for that. Sorry, it was a nice piece, the techs did aid me, but at the same time mis-inform me. That I do not like, and certainly do not respect.

Bye Anthem, hello Integra 9.9

I didn't ask for this to happen, and I didn't even want it to happen. Everyone is counting pennies these days - they should have been more up-front, honest, and have better business ethics.

- Scott


----------



## jayray

Just a note to AVM 50 owners who have the buzzing problem. After doing a flash erase, fresh setup and ARC install, the buzzing is now replaced with a slight hissing sound from the rear left speaker and a slight popping sound as sources are switched. Will inform Nick of this change.

John


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/15062226
> 
> 
> Well with all this talk about upgrade and expense is why I sold my Anthem D2. I was using it as part of a reference system in my evaluation of DVDs on my site in exchange for advertising. When I head I would not be given a discount for the upgrade (which I was for the ARC) I said the hell with this. After all, the advertising they were getting was still the same. I was very pissed that when I fist contacted them about the D2 that it would handle all the new audio formats. I was then told an downloadable upgrade would be made available for front readout so it would display when the new audio formats were being decoded/played. Then I was told that wouldn't be the case and the new upgrade would handle it. But, there is no way I'm paying the $2,5000 for that. Sorry, it was a nice piece, the techs did aid me, but at the same time mis-inform me. That I do not like, and certainly do not respect.
> 
> Bye Anthem, hello Integra 9.9
> 
> I didn't ask for this to happen, and I didn't even want it to happen. Everyone is counting pennies these days - they should have been more up-front, honest, and have better business ethics.
> 
> - Scott



Boooooooooo ooooooo ooooooo

Noooooooo

Please don't leave us

Booooooooooo


----------



## ditcin

I tried to be nice but I can see it's not worth.

I'm glad people like you got screwed from **** ass company who doesn't give a damn over who they screw because they think who the hell they are. I was able to unload the Amthem D2 and purchase the Integra 9.9 and still have a thou left over. The 9.9 decodes better and responds quicker than the Anthem. Now in retrospect I realized I was reamed by Anthem and their lying ways.

I hope this isn't deleted so others who are having second thoughts can get a clear and unbiased opinion instead of "fan boy" blind bull.


----------



## xtrips

I think we got a guy here that traded his humor and politeness for an Integra.

Is that a good deal?

Maybe this is what it's worth...


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/15060345
> 
> 
> Looking for some guidance here… D2 owner here (connected to a Sharp XV-Z20000 projector) and have a few questions:
> 
> 
> 1) In the process of trying to replace the PS3/Oppo combination for bluray and dvd’s in our home theater with a single device. Am now auditioning the Pioneer BDP-51 and the Panasonic DMP-BD55 and have the following issues:
> 
> 
> Pioneer: Set to source direct mode (reason for trying this one  and hdmi colorspace set to auto results in 480i, 4:2:2 being sent to the D2 when playing a DVD (as expected). The problem is that the video is almost black and white with some blue tint (best I can describe it  Bluray discs are fine with these settings. Setting the hdmi colorspace on the Pioneer to 4:4:4 cures the problem for dvd and, fortunately, Bluray still works. Any reason not to use 4:4:4?
> 
> 
> Panasonic: when 24p output set to auto/on in the Panasonic, D2 set to edges off (my default for all inputs), Sharp in dot-by-dot mode (the only mode I use), playing a Bluray I get green lines on the right and bottom edges of the picture when 24p output from the Panasonic. I have to set “Edges On’ to about 3 before they disappear… No such problem with the Pioneer or PS3 when they output 24p (crop edges remain off for these two). Am I right to assume this is an issue with the Panasonic and not some handshake issue between it and the D2? I’m also assuming this is bad since the D2 now has to perform scaling whereas with edges off there is no scaling taking place (or is that an incorrect assumption?)
> 
> 
> As an aside, it looks like both may be going back… I’m starting to doubt the Pioneer will ever be updated to decode DTS-MA and the 24p issue with the Panasonic looks to be a deal breaker. I may just remove the Oppo and return to the PS3 exclusively until some manufacturer learns how to actually implement a decent Bluray/dvd player (Oppo perhaps?). Good lord, 2 years after Bluray introduction and these guys (Pioneer, Panasonic, Samsung, et al.) still can’t get it right.
> 
> 
> 2) Just replaced our little 10” sub with a dual Rythmik F12 setup… when performing Arc measurements should I connect both or just one for the measurements?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



IMHO the PS3/Oppo 980H is a great combo right now. With the Oppo you have simple passing of 480i via HDMI, which is what you want for the D2. Furthermore you have the ability to listen to SACD and DVD-Audio via LPCM. With the PS3 you have Sony's flagship device that is as future-proof as any consumer electronic is ever going to be (oh yeah, and it plays games too). I think that your email illustrates the issues of trying to find a single replacement that won't be as good and cost more than both combined.


----------



## slots1

Everyone has an opinion. I bought my D2 in July of 2007. and upgraded to ARC in March of this year.

This is probably my 10th amp/preamp or receiver over the last 50 years. All of the other ones offered no upgrade paths. Some even promised. So out with the old and on with the new. My Denon 5700 is living with my daughter.

I am very happy with the way Anthem has addressed the many issues. Sorry, it does not work for everyone.

And again I want to say thanks for all the help from Bob P.

Anger just is out of place from these guys.

Gerry


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/15060345
> 
> 
> Looking for some guidance here… D2 owner here (connected to a Sharp XV-Z20000 projector) and have a few questions:
> 
> 
> 1) In the process of trying to replace the PS3/Oppo combination for bluray and dvd’s in our home theater with a single device. Am now auditioning the Pioneer BDP-51 and the Panasonic DMP-BD55 and have the following issues:
> 
> 
> Pioneer: Set to source direct mode (reason for trying this one  and hdmi colorspace set to auto results in 480i, 4:2:2 being sent to the D2 when playing a DVD (as expected). The problem is that the video is almost black and white with some blue tint (best I can describe it  Bluray discs are fine with these settings. Setting the hdmi colorspace on the Pioneer to 4:4:4 cures the problem for dvd and, fortunately, Bluray still works. Any reason not to use 4:4:4?
> 
> 
> Panasonic: when 24p output set to auto/on in the Panasonic, D2 set to edges off (my default for all inputs), Sharp in dot-by-dot mode (the only mode I use), playing a Bluray I get green lines on the right and bottom edges of the picture when 24p output from the Panasonic. I have to set “Edges On’ to about 3 before they disappear… No such problem with the Pioneer or PS3 when they output 24p (crop edges remain off for these two). Am I right to assume this is an issue with the Panasonic and not some handshake issue between it and the D2? I’m also assuming this is bad since the D2 now has to perform scaling whereas with edges off there is no scaling taking place (or is that an incorrect assumption?)
> 
> 
> As an aside, it looks like both may be going back… I’m starting to doubt the Pioneer will ever be updated to decode DTS-MA and the 24p issue with the Panasonic looks to be a deal breaker. I may just remove the Oppo and return to the PS3 exclusively until some manufacturer learns how to actually implement a decent Bluray/dvd player (Oppo perhaps?). Good lord, 2 years after Bluray introduction and these guys (Pioneer, Panasonic, Samsung, et al.) still can’t get it right.
> 
> 
> 2) Just replaced our little 10” sub with a dual Rythmik F12 setup… when performing Arc measurements should I connect both or just one for the measurements?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



I am currently using a Pioneer 05FD wich is the same HDMi platform and Videoprocessor. To get the most of the 51FD, you need to set resolution out at source direct, set the Video output to 4:2:2 and the video processor at "professional". Also you need to ensure you disable highbandwidth HDMI.


When you use 4:4:4 you add an extra conversion that seem to create white crush on some display.


I don,t have the Z20000, I am using a Benq 9000 and did not experience what you are experiencing.


Yoiu need to ensure you have at least firmware 1.08 installed.


It could be a defective player.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/15062716
> 
> 
> I tried to be nice but I can see it's not worth.
> 
> I'm glad people like you got screwed from **** ass company who doesn't give a damn over who they screw because they think who the hell they are. I was able to unload the Amthem D2 and purchase the Integra 9.9 and still have a thou left over. The 9.9 decodes better and responds quicker than the Anthem. Now in retrospect I realized I was reamed by Anthem and their lying ways.
> 
> I hope this isn't deleted so others who are having second thoughts can get a clear and unbiased opinion instead of "fan boy" blind bull.




You miss the first aim of a Pre/pro is audio quality. This is where the D2 shine. The only thig that beat the D2 in my setup was the Bryston SP2.0 in multichannels audio listening and stereo listening. For movies the D2 was definitively better.


I personnally recommended the Integra to a few peoples mostly peoples that where not aiming for the high audio performance. It is a nice package for its price. I am not trying to be sarcastic. The D2 is not fort all purse but even at that price it is a good price/quality ratio. Enjoy your Integra.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15062777
> 
> 
> I think we got a guy here that traded his humor and politeness for an Integra.
> 
> Is that a good deal?
> 
> Maybe this is what it's worth...



I don't think this thread will gain anything with this type of post.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "test" version ARC V1.2.10 is out.*


A new "test" version, ARC V1.2.10 has appeared on the password protected download page this morning. I have not yet installed it myself, so I don't know if it's internal version number (as shown in the About box) is also V1.2.10. The release notes list the following changes (from the V1.2.5 "official" release" version):



> Quote:
> Changes:
> 
> 
> v1.2.10:
> 
> 
> 1. Change to how sub crossover frequency is selected to address cases where the sub is a lot closer to the listener than the center channel, causing dialog to be heard from the sub if its crossover was set high enough.
> 
> 
> 2. More settings available for configurations not using a subwoofer. Note that while the front channels will be set to Large in the setup menu, ARC will still create a low frequency contour on the room correction target based on response at those frequencies. This is separate from the bass manager's crossover. To override it, set ARC's crossover (which is really part of the EQ profile) to 25 Hz in the Custom mode Targets menu, click OK, then Calculate, then Upload.
> 
> 
> 3. Selecting Rears for measurement not allowed if Surrounds are unselected. (In a 5.1 system use Surround channels not Rears.)
> 
> 
> If using a file made with v1.2.2 or later, re-measurement is not necessary. Open the file using Custom mode, calculate and upload.



-------------------------------------------------


JAYRAY, these notes do not explicitly mention a fix for the hardware ID problem you found with your AVM-50/ARC unit. If you test this new version and find that it works correctly, please do post here so we can alert other AVM-50/ARC users that might be brave enough to also try this "test" software.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/15062226
> 
> 
> Well with all this talk about upgrade and expense is why I sold my Anthem D2. I was using it as part of a reference system in my evaluation of DVDs on my site in exchange for advertising. When I head I would not be given a discount for the upgrade (which I was for the ARC) I said the hell with this. After all, the advertising they were getting was still the same. I was very pissed that when I fist contacted them about the D2 that it would handle all the new audio formats. I was then told an downloadable upgrade would be made available for front readout so it would display when the new audio formats were being decoded/played. Then I was told that wouldn't be the case and the new upgrade would handle it. But, there is no way I'm paying the $2,5000 for that. Sorry, it was a nice piece, the techs did aid me, but at the same time mis-inform me. That I do not like, and certainly do not respect.
> 
> Bye Anthem, hello Integra 9.9
> 
> I didn't ask for this to happen, and I didn't even want it to happen. Everyone is counting pennies these days - they should have been more up-front, honest, and have better business ethics.
> 
> - Scott



Scott,

Who on earth told you THAT?


This thread has been in existence since March of 2006. The nearly 17,000 posts in here come from an enormous variety of posters -- much larger than most threads here at AVS. Many of these posters have had direct contact with Anthem on a regular basis. Some live near Anthem and have even had personal contact with them. Some are beta testers for Anthem products.


In all that time, from all those posters YOURS is the very first post that says Anthem promised internal decoding in the current D2 or an upgrade so that the front panel could identify the type of audio track THE PLAYER is decoding to HDMI LPCM (which is technically impossible anyway, so how were they even supposed to do that?).


Some of these posters have written reviews for the trade press. If Anthem was going to dangle a feature like this in front of anyone it would seem they'd be the likely targets. But nope. Not even a hint of anything like that.


From the very beginning -- from before this product was launched -- and throughout the over two year history of postings in here, the story from Anthem as reported by multiple posters here has been that the D2 was an HDMI V1.1 device that accepted the HDMI LPCM resulting from decoding in players, and that this was not possible to change by firmware update alone if for no other reason than HDMI bitstreaming of the lossless codecs is not supported in the HDMI V1.1 chip hardware.


So it boggles the mind to hear that Anthem told you, and apparently nobody else, an entirely different story.


Unbelievable.


-------------------------------------------


The upgrade price to go from a D2 to a D2 v.2 makes perfect sense when you realize that this involves replacing the video/HDMI board (the single most expensive replaceable part in the unit) as well as the DSP board.


I'm glad you were able to sell your D2 and that your new Integra is doing well for you. When the D2 v.2 finally ships, perhaps you'll consider selling your Integra and buying a new D2 v.2 (for a net cost probably close to what the upgrade would have cost).


I understand your frustration at not being able to talk Anthem into giving you special discounts. Apparently they wanted to spend their advertising dollars elsewhere.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15062241
> 
> 
> Just a note to AVM 50 owners who have the buzzing problem. After doing a flash erase, fresh setup and ARC install, the buzzing is now replaced with a slight hissing sound from the rear left speaker and a slight popping sound as sources are switched. Will inform Nick of this change.
> 
> John



This is the "hiss" problem (at startup of a new audio stream) that's been reported by others with AVM-50/ARC units. Anthem has acknowledged the issue but apparently a fix has gotten held up behind the v.2 product work. I suspect it has something to do with the different clock frequency of the AVM-50/ARC DSP board compared to the DSP setup used in the D2 (which does not exhibit this problem).


Do let Nick know what you've found, and please report back if you get any further info from him on when the fix for this will come out.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ditcin* /forum/post/15062716
> 
> 
> Now in retrospect I realized I was reamed by Anthem and their lying ways.
> 
> I hope this isn't deleted so others who are having second thoughts can get a clear and unbiased opinion instead of "fan boy" blind bull.



Say that to the poor guys that bought the costly *Integra* RDC 7.1 pre/pro 3 years ago and that was supposed to be ''upgradeable'' with cards... lol. That's what I call LYING.


Here you go. Go read this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&highlight=rdc 


You can go directly to the last pages and see what ''lying'' to your customer really is...


That post is really interesting:


''Well, I am stuck with a soon out of warranty $5000 *Integra* RDC-7.1, that will never meet the *promised expandability/upgradability*. It will become an expensive paper weight as soon as the first hard fault hits it, as I am sure it eventually will. When this happens, I don't know what I will replace it with. So, yes, I am sad.''


Here's another one:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=2142 


The Integra 7.1 and the D2 came out almost at the same time on the market 3 years ago. Guess which pre/pros was REALLY upgradeable between the 2?







After 3 years, it's all clear...


The Integra RDC-7.0/7.1 thread is long dead and forgotten, while the D2 thread is still alive and kicking, with the ARC upgrade that came out a couple of months ago, and the D2v2 coming soon.


3 years ago. Bought a D2 = happy owners and still happy today with new codecs, Blu-ray, etc... 3 years ago, bought Integra RDC-7.1 for around the same price = not happy, Integra lied, must sell and buy something new.


I know you are not happy. But Anthem are a far better company then Integra/Onkyo, with MUCH BETTER customer services, and true advertizing with promises filled over the years. Integra are the worst.


So get your grip on, take a deep breath, relax, and think about all this. You are mixing companies. Anthem = good, and fullflilling their promises... Integra = lyers, doing alot of false advertizing, and not caring at all about their customers.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15064401
> 
> 
> This is the "hiss" problem (at startup of a new audio stream) that's been reported by others with AVM-50/ARC units. Anthem has acknowledged the issue but apparently a fix has gotten held up behind the v.2 product work. I suspect it has something to do with the different clock frequency of the AVM-50/ARC DSP board compared to the DSP setup used in the D2 (which does not exhibit this problem).
> 
> 
> Do let Nick know what you've found, and please report back if you get any further info from him on when the fix for this will come out.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I have had the hiss/buzz issue from the beginning and after the new install I did this week, it seemed to change to a soft hiss but now in the back and right side. This is diff compared to my original experience. I notified Nick and he found it an interesting change. It's been passed on to the software engineers.

As for the new ARC, I will try it out tonight. Would be surprised to have a new version without the "typo" fixed. Of course until I try I'm just speculating









John


----------



## xtrips

Hello Bob,


It's been 1+ month now that I have shifted from a 2 separate systems (stereo music and movies) to a merged system with the D2 at its center.

For that I had to part from my beloved Electrocompaniet EC4.8 stereo pre-amp.

Now my high-end cd player feeds the D2 via a coax cable in order to stay in the digital domain and let the ARC do its wonders. For that I also had to give up on my high-end DAC.

I have gained very much from this process thanks to the ARC but I still can perceive some harshness in the sound, probably due to the DAC in the D2 which is probably not as good as the Electrocompaniet.

So I was thinking that maybe the new board with its new DSP's will probably be of better quality. Do you know anything about it?


Thank you


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15064993
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> It's been 1+ month now that I have shifted from a 2 separate systems (stereo music and movies) to a merged system with the D2 at its center.
> 
> For that I had to part from my beloved Electrocompaniet EC4.8 stereo pre-amp.
> 
> Now my high-end cd player feeds the D2 via a coax cable in order to stay in the digital domain and let the ARC do its wonders. For that I also had to give up on my high-end DAC.
> 
> I have gained very much from this process thanks to the ARC but I still can perceive some harshness in the sound, probably due to the DAC in the D2 which is probably not as good as the Electrocompaniet.
> 
> So I was thinking that maybe the new board with its new DSP's will probably be of better quality. Do you know anything about it?
> 
> 
> Thank you



I am using a setup where for pure stereo listening of some type of music, my high-end external DAC (Audiomat Tango 2.5) is doing a better job than the D2 DAC. Do not forget that most pre/pro DAC are optimized for multichannels movies and audio first. Stereo is a second priority. Even Brystons publicly confirmed that the upcoming SP3 DAC for stereo listening will be less good compared to their new external DAC. For Stereo maniac they recommend to use the External DAC stereo music than go through the SP3 in pass through.


This is why I kept my external Stereo DAC. That DAC feeded by a CEC TL53Z Player where I use only the CD transport section. The CEC TL53Z DAC is not up to the D2 and Audiomat DAC but the transport section is amazing. But we are talking little details that are expensive to get (the combo price for the CEC and the Audiomat DAC with its cables is almost the price of the D2 alone). The Audiomat DAC got two outputs one that I send to the D2 to be resampled and than applied ARC. The second is directed to a separate Tube Preamp. For some music the tube solution is better for most of the Pop/rock music the D2/ARC route is lot better.


Conclusion, you need to experience different path with different type of music you will find interesting match.


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15063753
> 
> 
> I am currently using a Pioneer 05FD wich is the same HDMi platform and Videoprocessor. To get the most of the 51FD, you need to set resolution out at source direct, set the Video output to 4:2:2 and the video processor at "professional". Also you need to ensure you disable highbandwidth HDMI.
> 
> 
> When you use 4:4:4 you add an extra conversion that seem to create white crush on some display.
> 
> 
> I don,t have the Z20000, I am using a Benq 9000 and did not experience what you are experiencing.
> 
> 
> Yoiu need to ensure you have at least firmware 1.08 installed.
> 
> 
> It could be a defective player.



The 51 has 1.08 installed... when set to source direct, colorspace to auto or 4:2:2, dvd's exhibit this bizarre video... a blue tinted almost black & white image (bluray is fine however).


Changing the colorspace to 4:4:4 or to any output resolution other than 480i or source direct corrects the problem for dvd's. Turns out the Oppo I am using (older 970hd) only outputs 4:4:4 so that explains why it has always worked with the D2. The only other 480i 4:2:2 source device I have is a JVC 5U d-vhs deck and it exhibits this same issue as the Pioneer when set to 4:2:2 with the D2 (works fine when JVC set to RGB colorspace)...


I'm beginning to think this is an issue with my D2... odd that it works for you though. BTW, the problem happens regardless of what display device is attached to the D2 (lcd monitor, sharp projector or sony crt). The Pioneer/JVC also both work fine when attached to our Onkyo 885 pre/pro with 480i and colorspace 4:2:2.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/15065356
> 
> 
> The 51 has 1.08 installed... when set to source direct, colorspace to auto or 4:2:2, dvd's exhibit this bizarre video... a blue tinted almost black & white image (bluray is fine however).
> 
> 
> Changing the colorspace to 4:4:4 or to any output resolution other than 480i or source direct corrects the problem for dvd's. Turns out the Oppo I am using (older 970hd) only outputs 4:4:4 so that explains why it has always worked with the D2. The only other 480i 4:2:2 source device I have is a JVC 5U d-vhs deck and it exhibits this same issue as the Pioneer when set to 4:2:2 with the D2 (works fine when JVC set to RGB colorspace)...
> 
> 
> I'm beginning to think this is an issue with my D2... odd that it works for you though. BTW, the problem happens regardless of what display device is attached to the D2 (lcd monitor, sharp projector or sony crt). The Pioneer/JVC also both work fine when attached to our Onkyo 885 pre/pro with 480i and colorspace 4:2:2.



The 05FD is not the first source that I am using that I force to 4:2:2. Never experience this. You should chat about it with Nick from Anthem Support, if you have that with many sources and displays.


When you plug the 51FD directly in the projector do you experience the same behavior?


The rumeur says that Pioneer firmware 1.17 will be available tomorrow. You should use that oppertinity to reflash the 51FD firmware with the latest.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15064993
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> It's been 1+ month now that I have shifted from a 2 separate systems (stereo music and movies) to a merged system with the D2 at its center.
> 
> For that I had to part from my beloved Electrocompaniet EC4.8 stereo pre-amp.
> 
> Now my high-end cd player feeds the D2 via a coax cable in order to stay in the digital domain and let the ARC do its wonders. For that I also had to give up on my high-end DAC.
> 
> I have gained very much from this process thanks to the ARC but I still can perceive some harshness in the sound, probably due to the DAC in the D2 which is probably not as good as the Electrocompaniet.
> 
> So I was thinking that maybe the new board with its new DSP's will probably be of better quality. Do you know anything about it?
> 
> 
> Thank you



The new DSPs in the v.2 products do not come with new DACs. It will be the same DACs as the current products.


Keep in mind that ARC can also produce some issues up in the high frequencies if the mic gets confused by the directionality of treble from your speakers. This is one reason that mic height, mic positioning, and proper speaker pointing are so important.


Another thing to try is to LOWER the Max EQ Frequency Target to something closer to the factory default 5KHz setting. Even though the resulting Calculated curves might not look as good in the high frequencies the actually listening results might be better. This would be the case if the mic is picking up faulty high frequency Measurements due to speaker directionality. If you ask ARC to "correct" up there -- based on such faulty Measured values -- the result will likely not be as good as if ARC did nothing up there at all. Again, the Calculated curves show how ARC will correct the Measurements it is working with. But if those high frequency Measurements are bogus, a "good" Calculated result up there is misleading.


The bottom line is "trust your ears". If a lower Max EQ Frequency Target produces better sounding results then it *IS* better despite what the Calculated curves look like.


But again, to minimize this possibility of incorrect high frequencies, you need to carefully consider your speaker mounting height, toe-in and vertical pointing, and to carefully set up the ARC mic positions to match seated ear height (with mic tip pointing straight up) and not close to surfaces like walls or seat backs. This is just as important as making sure you have at least 24" separating each mic position from every other mic position.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15065216
> 
> 
> I am using a setup where for pure stereo listening of some type of music, my high-end external DAC (Audiomat Tango 2.5) is doing a better job than the D2 DAC. Do not forget that most pre/pro DAC are optimized for multichannels movies and audio first. Stereo is a second priority. Even Brystons publicly confirmed that the upcoming SP3 DAC for stereo listening will be less good compared to their new external DAC. For Stereo maniac they recommend to use the External DAC stereo music than go through the SP3 in pass through.
> 
> 
> This is why I kept my external Stereo DAC. That DAC feeded by a CEC TL53Z Player where I use only the CD transport section. The CEC TL53Z DAC is not up to the D2 and Audiomat DAC but the transport section is amazing. But we are talking little details that are expensive to get (the combo price for the CEC and the Audiomat DAC with its cables is almost the price of the D2 alone). The Audiomat DAC got two outputs one that I send to the D2 to be resampled and than applied ARC. The second is directed to a separate Tube Preamp. For some music the tube solution is better for most of the Pop/rock music the D2/ARC route is lot better.
> 
> 
> Conclusion, you need to experience different path with different type of music you will find interesting match.



Thank you. As I said i come from there. But in order to make good use of the ARC the only way is to feed a digital signal to the D2. Because when I used my external DAC and fed analog signals to the D2 and then rerouted that to the ARC it sounded terrible.

So I guess my only chance is for Anthem to improve their DAC.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/15065356
> 
> 
> The 51 has 1.08 installed... when set to source direct, colorspace to auto or 4:2:2, dvd's exhibit this bizarre video... a blue tinted almost black & white image (bluray is fine however).
> 
> 
> Changing the colorspace to 4:4:4 or to any output resolution other than 480i or source direct corrects the problem for dvd's. Turns out the Oppo I am using (older 970hd) only outputs 4:4:4 so that explains why it has always worked with the D2. The only other 480i 4:2:2 source device I have is a JVC 5U d-vhs deck and it exhibits this same issue as the Pioneer when set to 4:2:2 with the D2 (works fine when JVC set to RGB colorspace)...
> 
> 
> I'm beginning to think this is an issue with my D2... odd that it works for you though. BTW, the problem happens regardless of what display device is attached to the D2 (lcd monitor, sharp projector or sony crt). The Pioneer/JVC also both work fine when attached to our Onkyo 885 pre/pro with 480i and colorspace 4:2:2.



A blue tinted almost black and white image implies that the red "color difference" channel (the Cr channel) has been dropped. If you were using Component cables I'd tell you to go plug the Red cable back in as it has fallen out.


This could be a fault in your D2 or in the Pioneer player. I can't think of any user setting you might have made that would cause a problem like this.


My D2 works just fine with HDMI 480i YCbCr 4:2:2 input.


------------------------------------------------


Whenever you have a weird HDMI problem like this it is worth trying a new HDMI cable. In addition, you might want to try a different input on the D2. If the problem is isolated to one input then of course it is a D2 problem.


ETA: I presume you are using the V1.33 firmware. It may be worth a try to re-install the V1.33 firmware on top of itself. Don't skip any steps -- do it as if you were doing it for the first time. In particular, Reload Factory Defaults before the install and make sure you don't have any powered HDMI connections (input or output) during the install.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

"Test" ARC V1.2.10:


There is something odd about the Windows application installer for this version. The installer appears to be confused about the versioning.


When I attempt to install on top of my current ARC V1.2.8.1, the installer offers the options to Repair or Remove the current install rather than doing the new install.


I did a Remove of the current install, rebooted, and ran the V1.2.10 installer again and it properly installed V1.2.10. This is probably a minor problem in the installer script.


I've sent an email to Nick at Anthem.


------------------------------------------------


My 20KHz results (based on my V1.2.5 Measurements) look just as good as they did with V1.2.8.1. I'm Uploading them now so I don't know how they sound yet.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15065428
> 
> 
> Thank you. As I said i come from there. But in order to make good use of the ARC the only way is to feed a digital signal to the D2. Because when I used my external DAC and fed analog signals to the D2 and then rerouted that to the ARC it sounded terrible.
> 
> So I guess my only chance is for Anthem to improve their DAC.



I do not find this to be the case - at least with my CD player. The DAC with my Arcam CD192 sounds better through ARC than feeding the D2 with a digital signal from my CD192. Although, I think the system sounds better using the digital signal from the CD192 and ARC than it does with the analog signal and no ARC.


Best to not as good...


CD192 analog with ARC

CD192 digital with ARC

CD192 analog w/o ARC

CD192 digital w/o ARC


----------



## eXcessive

Ok folks Here is hoping all your praise on Anthem is correct, I purchased an Anthem AVM50 & MCA50 today. It was a used unit 1 year old but the warranty is transferable I picked it up for $4500.


I've been told the Upgrade to the AVM50v2 with ARC will be about $1400 so I'll upgrade this unit and save some dollars.


ON a side note I earlier reported that Anthem told me at a local dealer show that the product would be out in November, this has since been pushed back to Dec/January with upgrades available in January/Febuary.


So hopefully I'm about to enjoy the Anthem Difference.


----------



## jayray

ARC 1.2.1.0 Now works with AVM50. No model recognition problem


Now testing with 20K Hz, so far so good.









John


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15065428
> 
> 
> Thank you. As I said i come from there. But in order to make good use of the ARC the only way is to feed a digital signal to the D2. Because when I used my external DAC and fed analog signals to the D2 and then rerouted that to the ARC it sounded terrible.
> 
> So I guess my only chance is for Anthem to improve their DAC.



Anthem is not planning a new DAC for the D2V2. Your best approched would be to work on Room behavior to try to isolate the issues and improve your listening.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eXcessive* /forum/post/15065789
> 
> 
> Ok folks Here is hoping all your praise on Anthem is correct, I purchased an Anthem AVM50 & MCA50 today. It was a used unit 1 year old but the warranty is transferable I picked it up for $4500.
> 
> 
> I've been told the Upgrade to the AVM50v2 with ARC will be about $1400 so I'll upgrade this unit and save some dollars.
> 
> 
> ON a side note I earlier reported that Anthem told me at a local dealer show that the product would be out in November, this has since been pushed back to Dec/January with upgrades available in January/Febuary.
> 
> 
> So hopefully I'm about to enjoy the Anthem Difference.



Welcome to the cool kids club!










Your timeline on v.2 products and upgrades makes sense to me based on the little we've heard from Anthem on these recently, but I'm surprised at how low the v.2 upgrade price is. Previously we were estimating $2500 for an upgrade from an AVM-50 without ARC to an AVM-50 v.2 with ARC. These are estimates based on what we think the video board and DSP board will cost Anthem (plus an allowance for the ARC license). If the upgrade price actually turns out to be as low as $1400 that would be outstanding!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15065842
> 
> 
> ARC 1.2.1.0 Now works with AVM50. No model recognition problem
> 
> 
> Now testing with 20K Hz, so far so good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Cool! I'll update my warning post above.


Folks with AVM-50/ARC units who are brave enough to try "test" ARC software can now use ARC V1.2.10 from the password protected download site.


Keep in mind that this is just "test" software, so there may still be surprises in it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC V1.2.10 update:


I've Uploaded my 20KHz results (based on my older V1.2.5 Measurements) and so far they sound outstanding.


I did notice one unexpected thing: ARC V1.2.10 Uploads subwoofer speaker volume trims that are precisely 1dB higher for both Movie and Music than what previous versions of ARC used. Now this is based on my same set of V1.2.5 Measurements so it is definitely a Calculation difference in ARC V1.2.10.


Again, so far it sounds very good indeed. I expect this is intended behavior. I've sent an email to Nick to confirm.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

My trim level for sub, both movie and music, were .5 db higher. Crossover for sub is now 60 Hz rather than 120 Hz for previous version while front and center speakers were now 60 Hz rather than 40 and 50 respectively.

John


----------



## jayray

AVM 50 BUZZ is back. Thought it was too good to be true









John


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15065379
> 
> 
> The 05FD is not the first source that I am using that I force to 4:2:2. Never experience this. You should chat about it with Nick from Anthem Support, if you have that with many sources and displays.
> 
> 
> When you plug the 51FD directly in the projector do you experience the same behavior?
> 
> 
> The rumeur says that Pioneer firmware 1.17 will be available tomorrow. You should use that oppertinity to reflash the 51FD firmware with the latest.




Plugging the pioneer directly into the displays with 480i/4:2:2 works fine.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15065436
> 
> 
> A blue tinted almost black and white image implies that the red "color difference" channel (the Cr channel) has been dropped. If you were using Component cables I'd tell you to go plug the Red cable back in as it has fallen out.
> 
> 
> This could be a fault in your D2 or in the Pioneer player. I can't think of any user setting you might have made that would cause a problem like this.
> 
> 
> My D2 works just fine with HDMI 480i YCbCr 4:2:2 input.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Whenever you have a weird HDMI problem like this it is worth trying a new HDMI cable. In addition, you might want to try a different input on the D2. If the problem is isolated to one input then of course it is a D2 problem.
> 
> 
> ETA: I presume you are using the V1.33 firmware. It may be worth a try to re-install the V1.33 firmware on top of itself. Don't skip any steps -- do it as if you were doing it for the first time. In particular, Reload Factory Defaults before the install and make sure you don't have any powered HDMI connections (input or output) during the install.
> 
> --Bob




Sorry... yes, using 1.33 firmware. Tried all the inputs and even changed to a different hdmi cable but made no difference.


I think it is the D2... I've had this D2 for quite a while (2+ years) and I think I got a quirky one... it recently developed an issue whereby if it loses power for more than 20 minutes or so (not sure of the exact amount of time... but it seems to survive shorter power outages), it will get into a wierd state upon powerup... symptoms of this are:


- instead of around 10 seconds for the amp to be triggered on, it takes about 30 to 40 seconds.


- I get video but no audio


- extremely sluggish to respond to the remote... anywhere from 10 to 40 seconds to respond to a remote command.


So basically, it is unuable in this state. Nothing I try recovers it from this short of performing a firmware reload.


I think I will continue to live with these quirks waiting to see if we can upgrade our D2's to the V2 version... if so I can then try and get these bugs squashed along with the upgrade so I only have to send it in once 


Regardless... thanks for the help!


----------



## eXcessive

Was the estimate on the upgrade of $2500 MSRP?


My dearler will get an earful if the price isn't close to the $1400 since the whole deal was made based on buying an AVM50v1 with upgrade to save money over the AVM50v2.


I was told I could probably expect to pay $6K for a brand new AVM50v2.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15065630
> 
> 
> I do not find this to be the case - at least with my CD player. The DAC with my Arcam CD192 sounds better through ARC than feeding the D2 with a digital signal from my CD192. Although, I think the system sounds better using the digital signal from the CD192 and ARC than it does with the analog signal and no ARC.
> 
> 
> Best to not as good...
> 
> 
> CD192 analog with ARC
> 
> CD192 digital with ARC
> 
> CD192 analog w/o ARC
> 
> CD192 digital w/o ARC



Hi Bob,


Did you read that?

I understand your advises and will put them to test tomorrow but what about the above mentioned? Do you think i should try something with the analog input and ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15066301
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Did you read that?
> 
> I understand your advises and will put them to test tomorrow but what about the above mentioned? Do you think i should try something with the analog input and ARC?



Yes you should definitely try it. I believe that's what Kal is doing at the moment as well.


For 2 channel analog input also go to Setup > ADC & Audio Output and change the default digitizing sampling rate for 2 channel to 96KHz. For multi-channel analog input it is already set that way.


Of course you must set the analog input to ANALOG-DSP so that it is digitized and ARC can operate on it.


It's hard to guess whether you will like this better, but it's certainly easy enough to try.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34

HOw do I in arc change from the 5khz to say 12khz to test that range out?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/15066921
> 
> 
> HOw do I in arc change from the 5khz to say 12khz to test that range out?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Open the saved file with your ARC Measurements in "advanced" mode. Go to the Targets window.


Change the Max EQ Frequency Target to whatever you like. You can set different values for Movie and Music configurations. Click OK to accept that change and dismiss the Targets window.


Click Calculate to apply the new Targets. If you like what you see in the resulting Calculated curves, do an Upload.


When the Upload completes go to the Setup menu in your Anthem to double check that everything looks good. Then Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture those changes into those memories so you don't accidentally undo them with a Reload later.


--------------------------------------------


Read section 3.15 of the updated users manual to learn about issues that might arise if you raise this Target when your Measurements include high frequency readings that may have been made less reliable by speaker directionality. As always, trust your ears. If a lower Max EQ Frequency Target SOUNDS better then it IS better despite what the Calculated curves look like up there.


If ARC is doing a lot of correction for any given speaker, you may find that raising this Target causes poorer Calculated curve results at lower frequencies due to ARC resources being diverted to higher frequencies. If that happens, experiment with different Max EQ Frequency Target values to see if you can find a good compromise setting.


You can easily do multiple Calculations like this (without having to re-Measure) to see how different values affect the Calculated results curves. When you get a result that looks good, Upload it and give it a listen.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Emailed Nick re my findings with ARC 1.2.1.0 and he said there will be more coming especially for people with "subterranean subs"







They have been in the HT at Paradigm doing "marathon" testing. Gotta love these guys.


My experience with 20Khz:

1. Wider soundfield

2. Noticeably better LFE

3. Increased Detail

this is based on about 4 hours of testing various BR discs and some high resolution Cheskey dvds

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick also mentioned to me that they are still experimenting in this "test" version. The increased sub volume trim level I found is part of that.


So for now the "official" release -- V1.2.5 -- is still the best one for folks doing critical listening as this "test" software may be doing some experimental stuff that doesn't pan out in the end.


He also stated that he thinks the final version of this new software will likely require a re-Measurement -- particularly for folks with subs capable of producing a lot of energy below 40Hz.


I don't believe they have an ETA yet on when this version will be finalized, but it doesn't sound to me like they think they are close yet.


If I were setting up a new system for someone right now, I'd use the "official" ARC V1.2.5.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I got another note just now from Nick that the ARC V1.2.10 installer is in fact the installer for the previous release -- a quicker way for them to put out a "quickie" change test.


And that means if you have V1.2.8.1 installed then you will be given the choice to "Repair" or "Remove" it when you try to install V1.2.10. You should "Remove" it, then you will be able to run the V1.2.10 installer again to install V1.2.10. [I suggest you reboot in between to keep the Windows demons happy.]


Nick says there will likely be more "quickie" releases like this before the "test" software stabilizes enough for wider testing. They are working on V1.2.12 right now for example (V1.2.11 was so quick we missed it).


Most folks here with access to the password protected download page should probably not try chasing these from release to release. Wait until things stabilize a bit more unless you are a real fan of tracking such stuff.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis

I've seen a bunch of posts that refer to turning off the sub for music - how do you do that in the ARC software? Is it as easy as setting the crossover to 0?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You can tell ARC you have no subwoofer in the Music configuration when you Measure.


However there is a bug in ARC V1.2.5 in that it still sets crossovers for the LF/RF speakers when you do that, so you need to go into the Targets window and manually change those crossovers to 25Hz, then Calculate and Upload.


Then you need to go into the Setup menu and adjust it to No Subwoofer and Large for the LF/RF speakers.


The new ARC software in testing now fixes that last bit -- you don't need to make changes in the Setup menu after the Upload -- but you will still need to manually change the "Room Correction Cutoffs" to 25Hz in the Targets window so that ARC knows it is OK to do Room Correction for LF/RF all the way down.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15071937
> 
> 
> You can tell ARC you have no subwoofer in the Music configuration when you Measure.
> 
> 
> However there is a bug in ARC V1.2.5 in that it still sets crossovers for the LF/RF speakers when you do that, so you need to go into the Targets window and manually change those crossovers to 25Hz, then Calculate and Upload.
> 
> 
> Then you need to go into the Setup menu and adjust it to No Subwoofer and Large for the LF/RF speakers.
> 
> 
> The new ARC software in testing now fixes that last bit -- you don't need to make changes in the Setup menu after the Upload -- but you will still need to manually change the "Room Correction Cutoffs" to 25Hz in the Targets window so that ARC knows it is OK to do Room Correction for LF/RF all the way down.
> 
> --Bob



I currently have 1.2.9 installed and .10 downloaded - is the bug still there in the later versions?


EDIT: Woops - just reread you last paragraph - thanks


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15030712
> 
> 
> I don't yet have a handle on what that Full range checkbox does. I presume it is supposed to tell the Room Correction algorithm not to roll off the low frequency target for them until it gets down into the subsonics.--Bob



Bob


Have you determined exactly what the ARC Full Range / x-over check off boxes accomplish or how to use them?


What does it mean when ARC states the following in the info box:


"Response cutoffs are not crossover frequencies although the behavior and purpose is similar. Response cutoffs are part of equalization, but not necessarily bass redirection, and are meant to not stress speakers at frequency extremes. Crossover frequencies are uploaded to the unit's bass manager during the upload procedure and are not necessarily the same as the response cutoff selected here."


I would like to force my Full Range R/F L/F speakers which are capable of

substantial output at 20-25Hz to go that low.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't know what the full range check box does (and in particular whether it is different than just setting the cutoff to 25Hz). I'm not even sure it is fully implemented yet. If you play with it, you should see the difference in the Target curves after you click OK to accept the change and dismiss the Targets window.


The explanation of the cutoffs pretty much states what's going on. Anthem has separated the crossovers (bass steering) from the mechanism that the room correction stuff uses to decide not to try to force a speaker to the target curve beyond the frequency range that speaker can handle (as determined from the Measurements). So the roll off in bass steering and the roll off in aggressive correction can now happen at different frequencies if that yields a better solution.

--Bob


----------



## BJB23

I am considering getting a D2 (possibly waiting for the v2) and am looking for feedback from anyone that uses the D2 with Direct TV HD to de-interlace the 1080i signal before providing it to your display. All connections would use HDMI. What kind of improvement in the picture have you noticed by using the D2? I figure the better the processing in your display, the less of an improvement you will get. I currently have a Mitsubishi 1080p DLP, 833 series. If you could also list the settings you use on the D2 I would appreciate it.


Also, what is a good blue-ray player to pair with the D2? Some of the posts on this thread have indicated that you should provide the D2 with a 1080i signal, but I'm a little confused by this since blue-ray disks carry their video as 1080p. I know the some players convert video from the disk to 1080i before converting it back to 1080p for output (older Samsung bdp-1000 for example), but I don't know if they all do. This might not be an issue anymore with the new generation of players. If the player doesn't convert video from the disk to 1080i first, then wouldn't it be best to provide a 1080p signal to the D2?


Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

-Brad


----------



## Bob Pariseau

BJB23,

I'll let others address your DirecTV specific questions since it's been some years since I used DirecTV and their hardware has changed.


But in general, the Anthem does full "motion adaptive" de-interlacing of 1080i video input which is the right way to do it. Now the resolution is high enough at 1080i that even if your TV is doing simpler de-interlacing, the de-interlacing artifacts won't be all that obvious -- not nearly as obvious as artifacts from improper de-interlacing of 480i standard def TV. But if you watch a lot of 1080i and switch between it being done right and it being done "simply" you'll get the feeling something is wrong in the "simple" de-interlacing even if you can't quite put your finger on just what.


There are some notorious 1080p TVs out there that do a particularly awful job of de-interlacing 1080i. What they do is 1080i -> 540p -> 1080p which has the effect of discarding half the vertical resolution. It is not particularly likely that your TV is in this class, but if it is then you'll notice a distinct improvement in clarity of 1080i when processed to 1080p by the Anthem. This is not a classic de-interlacing artifact but rather an example of bypassing a completely broken approach used in the bogus TV.


-----------------------------------------------


Content on Blu-Ray discs comes in two flavors: 1080p/24 and 1080i/60. 1080p/24 is typical for movies. 1080i/60 is typical for "live concert" style Blu-Ray discs.


Ideally the player should be set to send each of those to the Anthem according to whatever content happens to be coming off the disc. Even if you don't have a TV capable of /24 input, you should still send the 1080p/24 to the Anthem (when playing /24 content) and let the Anthem do the frame rate conversion to 1080p/60 output to your TV.


[There are some discs with demo content on them at 720p/60, and there are also many discs with standard definition "extras" content on them at 480i/60. Again the ideal would be to have the player send the unaltered content to the Anthem and let the Anthem do the heavy lifting.]


---------------------------------------------


Personally, I currently use a 40GB Sony PS3 as my Blu-Ray player and like it a lot. It decodes the new lossless audio tracks internally and sends the results as HDMI LPCM to the Anthem. It also can be set to automatically send HDMI 1080p/24 or 1080i/60 as appropriate. On the downside it does not support HDMI 480i output, so I have to let it do the de-interlacing of standard definition "extras" content and pass the result to the Anthem as 480p/60.


I have it paired with an older Pioneer player that I continue to use for standard DVD and CD playback. At the moment I just use my PS3 for Blu-Ray.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BJB23* /forum/post/15073770
> 
> 
> I am considering getting a D2 (possibly waiting for the v2) and am looking for feedback from anyone that uses the D2 with Direct TV HD to de-interlace the 1080i signal before providing it to your display. All connections would use HDMI. What kind of improvement in the picture have you noticed by using the D2? I figure the better the processing in your display, the less of an improvement you will get. I currently have a Mitsubishi 1080p DLP, 833 series. If you could also list the settings you use on the D2 I would appreciate it.
> 
> 
> Also, what is a good blue-ray player to pair with the D2? Some of the posts on this thread have indicated that you should provide the D2 with a 1080i signal, but I'm a little confused by this since blue-ray disks carry their video as 1080p. I know the some players convert video from the disk to 1080i before converting it back to 1080p for output (older Samsung bdp-1000 for example), but I don't know if they all do. This might not be an issue anymore with the new generation of players. If the player doesn't convert video from the disk to 1080i first, then wouldn't it be best to provide a 1080p signal to the D2?
> 
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -Brad



Brad,


I have DirecTV via the HR21 Pro unit thru the D2 at mostly 1080i (NFL sunday ticket, etc.). The picture quality is outstanding, really really good. I am not a huge DirecTV fan, I actually left them for my main TV viewing years ago, with the exception of my NFL package (HD compression was WAY too noticeable). I use Comcast HD for all normal viewing, full package of pay channels, etc. But I will say that DirecTV has impressed me lately again with the HD quality of the new satellites they've deployed and the MPEG4 signals with the HR21 Pro unit itself. It's not a Tivo, but it's okay. They keep updating the firmware of the unit, and constant improvement is a good thing. The D2 will deinterlace the 1080i beautifully, and send your Mitsu a very nice 1080p signal. In my case, I have a Sony Qualia 006 which can only accept a 1080i/60 signal, but even so, the D2 1080i/60 output to the set's own internal motion-adaptive deinterlacing renders the picture perfectly.


As for BluRay, use anything that can send proper BluRay 1080p/24 to the D2. In other words, virtually any BR player will do...concert videos will be 1080i/60, otherwise the signal will be 1080p/24 to the D2, and the D2 will process both perfectly and send glorious 1080p/60 to your Mitsu. All is good. Don't spend ridiculous money on BluRay, the players are all still maturing, high end companies haven't even released their versions yet, and the steep curve of new and better technology means don't corner yourself with big money lost for a "modern, current" player. It will be lacking in 12 months for sure. Older Pioneer units can be had for 300 dollars or less, and will do just fine for the time being. Definitely jump in, enjoy it, but don't drop serious money on it for a good 12 months until the dust settles more. Just my 2 cents.


Good luck with it,

Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" version ARC V1.2.12 now up on password protected download page.*


As expected, "Test" ARC V1.2.12 is now on the password protected download page; the latest installment in this recent flurry of test versions. Here are the release notes (changes from V1.2.5):



> Quote:
> Changes:
> 
> 
> v1.2.12:
> 
> 
> 1. Change to how sub crossover frequency is selected to address cases where the sub is a lot closer to the listener than the center channel, causing dialog to be heard from the sub if its crossover was set high enough.
> 
> 
> 2. More settings available for configurations not using a subwoofer. Note that while the front channels will be set to Large in the setup menu, ARC will still create a low frequency contour on the room correction target based on response at those frequencies. This cutoff frequency, displayed in the Targets panel, is separate from the bass manager's crossover.
> 
> 
> 3. Selecting Rears for measurement not allowed if Surrounds are unselected. (In a 5.1 system use Surround channels not Rears.)
> 
> 
> 4. Improved measurement at very low frequencies. Re-measurement is required to put the new correction in effect although since this relates to frequencies below the lowest note on a bass guitar, it may not make a difference depending on existing in-room response.



Note that this version requires you to re-Measure to get the full value of the new deep bass processing. Once again, this is "test" software, so expect surprises. I think we're likely to see more rapid release test versions as Anthem continues work on this new algorithm, so plan accordingly. The "official" release version of ARC remains V1.2.5.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15075038
> 
> 
> It also can be set to automatically send HDMI 1080p/24 or 1080i/60 as appropriate.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - on the PS3 do you set the 1080p/24 setting to 'Automatic' or 'On'?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15076071
> 
> 
> Note that this version requires you to re-Measure to get the full value of the new deep bass processing. Once again, this is "test" software, so expect surprises. I think we're likely to see more rapid release test versions as Anthem continues work on this new algorithm, so plan accordingly. The "official" release version of ARC remains V1.2.5.
> 
> --Bob



Do you Suppose the *DEEP BASS* problems showed up because of me










If So - Way to GO NICK and Anthem


----------



## Rooney

I have an opportunity to pick up a slightly used AVM 50. Do you all know if this unit can be upgraded by me at a later time to the v2 (since I'm not the original owner?) Thanks in advance3.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rooney* /forum/post/15077007
> 
> 
> I have an opportunity to pick up a slightly used AVM 50. Do you all know if this unit can be upgraded by me at a later time to the v2 (since I'm not the original owner?) Thanks in advance3.



Yes - you will have to send it either directly to Anthem or via a dealer to Anthem.


You will not have any warranty on the used unit, but you will have a warranty on the upgraded parts only when you get it upgraded to the V2.


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15076570
> 
> 
> Bob - on the PS3 do you set the 1080p/24 setting to 'Automatic' or 'On'?



For use with the Anthems, set it to Automatic. The ON setting "forces" /24 output to displays that can actually handle that but which do not properly publish that fact to sources connected to them. The Anthem doesn't need "ON" (regardless of the type of display you have).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15076791
> 
> 
> Do you Suppose the *DEEP BASS* problems showed up because of me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If So - Way to GO NICK and Anthem



You're just a Mover and a SHAKER Dr. H.!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rooney* /forum/post/15077007
> 
> 
> I have an opportunity to pick up a slightly used AVM 50. Do you all know if this unit can be upgraded by me at a later time to the v2 (since I'm not the original owner?) Thanks in advance3.



Anthem has not come out with an official statement on this, but we've received about the strongest possible "unofficial" comments from Anthem you could hope for stating that there will be an AVM-50 to AVM-50 v.2 upgrade offered.


We are guessing that this upgrade will require shipment to the factory (rather than dealer or owner install), that it will include ARC, that it will cost something in the range of $2000 to $2500 (mostly a guess at this point), and that it will be available within a month or two after new AVM-50 v.2 units start shipping -- which itself will probably happen in the next few months. Any parts replaced by the upgrade will carry a new warranty for the upgrade purchaser even if you are not the original AVM-50 purchaser. Based on past factory upgrades, time in factory will be about 1 week, but owners outside of Canada need to be aware that shipment to and from the factory in Canada is subject to Customs delays -- so total time including shipping both ways will be more like 4 to 6 weeks.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Hi Bob.

As you can see in the attached files, correcting up to 15Khz (instead of 20Khz) helped correct the Center much more precisely. Thank you.

I just had to change the lower freq. limit for my front speakers from 45Hz to 25Hz in the (stereo only) Music profile.

Did you notice that in this new version the gain stays equal for both profiles, no matter how many speakers are measured? Mine is set at 3.945749.

I could use some of your reflexions here.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15078076
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Hi Bob.
> 
> As you can see in the attached files, correcting up to 15Khz (instead of 20Khz) helped correct the Center much more precisely. Thank you.
> 
> I just had to change the lower freq. limit for my front speakers from 45Hz to 25Hz in the (stereo only) Music profile.
> 
> Did you notice that in this new version the gain stays equal for both profiles, no matter how many speakers are measured? Mine is set at 3.945749.
> 
> I could use some of your reflexions here.



Since you don't have the Center speaker in your Music configuration, keep in mind that you can set a different Max EQ Frequency Target for Music than what you use for Movie as you don't have to worry about the impact on Center for Music.


But do give the current stuff a listen. If the lower Max EQ Frequency Target for Music eliminates some of the harshness you were reporting, then you may have high frequency Measurements that are biased by speaker directionality as we've previously discussed. And thus the lower Target for this is better despite the small residual error it shows at the highest frequencies in the Calculated curves.


--------------------------------------------------------


In general your curves are looking very good right now.


The new ARC V1.2.12 deep bass Measurement stuff appears to be picking up more Boundary Gain from your subwoofer near 20Hz -- somewhat more than it can correct. This is leaving the Calculated sub curve a little hot between 20 and 25Hz.


This may simply mean Anthem still has some more work to do on refining this new algorithm (for example it may be a result of them overcorrecting a bit for your room null at 30Hz). But if you want to try to tackle it, some tiny repositioning of the sub might be called for -- move it a few inches further out from a wall or corner to reduce the Boundary Gain. Or experiment with a bass trap behind it.


For Movie, you've also got a small uncorrected swing in the LF speaker between 40 and 50Hz. I wouldn't worry about that one at all UNLESS you decide to try playing with slightly higher Max EQ Frequency Target -- 17KHz or 18KHz for example. If so, keep an eye on that one as well as on your Center Speaker to make sure the residual error there doesn't grow. Right now that swing is about 3dB (1.5dB either side of Target). That's no problem at all. But don't let it grow to 5dB (2.5dB either side of Target) or larger.


As with Music, your Movie LF/RF speakers are just a tad hot at 18KHz. The error is small enough that you can probably ignore it. But experimenting with 16, 17, or 18KHz Calculations might be in order (just keep an eye on the Center speaker as before). Again, keep in mind that the "harshness" you reported in Music might be due to pushing the Max EQ Frequency too high up -- into the range where the data the mic is picking up is biased by speaker directionality. So trust your ears. If the "harshness" goes away when you use the smaller Target then that's definitely the right answer despite that peak at 18KHz in the Calculated curves.


------------------------------------------


It is actually encouraging that Movie and Music are coming up with the same answer as to Room Gain. Remember, this value is supposed to be showing what ARC detects as the "natural" gain of your room -- the "good" room response characteristic that ARC will try to preserve even as it attempts to squash all the "bad" room responses. If you are using the same mic positions for Measuring Movie and Music you would EXPECT ARC to come up with the same answer for both.


All in all I think these curves show tremendous progress from where you started. Things should be sounding pretty darn good by now!

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15078164
> 
> 
> Since you don't have the Center speaker in your Music configuration, keep in mind that you can set a different Max EQ Frequency Target for Music than what you use for Movie as you don't have to worry about the impact on Center for Music.
> 
> .../...
> 
> All in all I think these curves show tremendous progress from where you started. Things should be sounding pretty darn good by now!
> 
> --Bob












What if the harshness came from the D2's DAC after all? Because I have been trying an analog connection (thus up-sampling to 192Khz in my cd player before converting to analog in my cd's DAC) these last 2 days as you and Kal suggested and, although it sounds maybe (?) too smooth, the harshness seems (?) to have disapeared.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15078220
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What if the harshness came from the D2's DAC after all? Because I have been trying an analog connection (thus up-sampling to 192Khz in my cd player before converting to analog in my cd's DAC) these last 2 days as you and Kal suggested and, although it sounds maybe (?) too smooth, the harshness seems (?) to have disapeared.



If you are still using ARC (ANALOG-DSP for the input and Room EQ = ON) as Kal also suggested then you are still using the D2's DACs as well!


Player's DACs digitize to stereo analog -> D2 digitizes stereo analog input and upsamples to 192KHz (be sure to set the analog stereo input sampling rate for digitizing to 96KHz) -> ARC does its thing, maintaining 192KHz -> D2's DACs digitize to analog again.


If this eliminates the "harshness" then the problem isn't the D2's DACS. It may be in the way your CD player is turning the LPCM on the CD into HDMI LPCM for output.


ETA: It would be interesting to try using Optical or Coax Digital audio output from your CD player to see if the "harshness" problem is limited to its HDMI output.


ETA 2: Also check if there is a volume adjustment that affects the HDMI output of the CD player. For example, raising the PS3's volume adjustment above the factory default value of 0 is commonly reported to add distortion to HDMI playback of CDs. Anything in the player that alters the LPCM coming off the disc when output as HDMI LPCM could be the culprit.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Tried ARC 1.2.12 and noticed more sweeps per speaker. When done I was surprised at how flat the corrected curves were up to 20K even though I set it to 5K. However, when trying to upload the verification comes up but settings are not sticking. Diff in unit than what was supposed to be uploaded.

Any ideas Bob?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15078334
> 
> 
> Tried ARC 1.2.12 and noticed more sweeps per speaker. When done I was surprised at how flat the corrected curves were up to 20K even though I set it to 5K. However, when trying to upload the verification comes up but settings are not sticking. Diff in unit than what was supposed to be uploaded.
> 
> Any ideas Bob?
> 
> John



What differences are you seeing? The crossovers Uploaded into the Setup menu for the subwoofer are expected to be different than the sub "cutoffs" shown in the ARC Targets window. Are you seeing other differences as well?


ETA: I've suggested to Nick that the Targets window display the true crossovers and speaker volume trims that will actually be Uploaded, even if the user is not allowed to adjust them. That would reduce confusion about this. Nick assures me that this new ARC software is still doing "robust" verification to eliminate the possibility of a faulty Upload not being detected and reported.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Crossover in the Target window is 80 but subXover shows 115 in the AVM50.

I am still amazed at the flatness to 20K even when set to 5K. Didn't get that before. I guess the upload took but the diff is caused by what you stated earlier.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15078376
> 
> 
> Crossover in the Target window is 80 but subXover shows 115 in the AVM50.
> 
> I am still amazed at the flatness to 20K even when set to 5K. Didn't get that before. I guess the upload took but the diff is caused by what you stated earlier.
> 
> John



Yes, if the only difference you are seeing is in the Sub crossover -- and possibly also the sub speaker volume trim values you got with earlier versions -- then things are correct.


They have separated the sub "crossover" which controls bass steering from the "cutoff" which limits the region of aggressive Room Correction.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15066610
> 
> 
> Yes you should definitely try it. I believe that's what Kal is doing at the moment as well.
> 
> 
> For 2 channel analog input also go to Setup > ADC & Audio Output and change the default digitizing sampling rate for 2 channel to 96KHz. For multi-channel analog input it is already set that way.
> 
> 
> Of course you must set the analog input to ANALOG-DSP so that it is digitized and ARC can operate on it.
> 
> 
> It's hard to guess whether you will like this better, but it's certainly easy enough to try.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I tried this with my ipod through 2 channel analog in CD. Made the changes you suggested above, so ARC can do its stuff, and the sound is terrific and easily a big step up from the analog only.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Can we expect to see a YouTube soon of you dancing around in gaudily colored silhouette? Bonus points if you are holding the Anthem as well...










--Bob


----------



## jayray

I have to admit, this ARC stuff is fun and discovering how all my sources can be improved is even better. Youtube, I don't think so since the video would be too underexposed since all my testing is in the dark







Thanks again for your help Bob.

John


----------



## yacht422

we have the hr21; d2; sony b/r; jvc projector; 123' screen. all in a cave.

1080p is to good to be true, esp if watching on a larger screen.

we've had no problems with the direct tv package. the 1080i looks wonderful, all the time. that said, there is discernable difference going from std tv to 1080i. esp with the pbs stations.(but, the same situation exists on the sony r/p in the l/r)

most people would agree with bob's recommendation for the ps3 - regrettably i did know of bob when i bought my player.

many of my friends use dir tv here in 'my portion' of fl, in part, as there is no decent cable available, and quite frankly, dish is terrible. (people;service; etc).

hope this helps

walt


----------



## Donloz

Hello folks, I talked to a Anthem rep today at a dealer show, and the dates for the D2.V2 are:::: The new D2.V2 in Jan. and the upgrade board for the D2will be in Feb. These dates are tenitive, 2K for the upgrade


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15078269
> 
> 
> If you are still using ARC (ANALOG-DSP for the input and Room EQ = ON) as Kal also suggested then you are still using the D2's DACs as well!
> 
> 
> Player's DACs digitize to stereo analog -> D2 digitizes stereo analog input and upsamples to 192KHz (be sure to set the analog stereo input sampling rate for digitizing to 96KHz) -> ARC does its thing, maintaining 192KHz -> D2's DACs digitize to analog again.
> 
> 
> If this eliminates the "harshness" then the problem isn't the D2's DACS. It may be in the way your CD player is turning the LPCM on the CD into HDMI LPCM for output.
> 
> 
> ETA: It would be interesting to try using Optical or Coax Digital audio output from your CD player to see if the "harshness" problem is limited to its HDMI output.
> 
> 
> ETA 2: Also check if there is a volume adjustment that affects the HDMI output of the CD player. For example, raising the PS3's volume adjustment above the factory default value of 0 is commonly reported to add distortion to HDMI playback of CDs. Anything in the player that alters the LPCM coming off the disc when output as HDMI LPCM could be the culprit.
> 
> --Bob




Hello Bob,


I don't know why you wrote about HDMI. My cd player only has stereo analog outputs (RCA and XLR) and a digital coax output.

But it doesn't matter because after I measured and uploaded with the 1.2.12 version and limited to 15Khz I tried again to connect via digital in order to prevent all the conversions back and forth.

So, here is what I think:

- indeed it sounded smoother when connected through analog but now I think it lacked too much details

- via digital the harshness is less present now as it seems. Or maybe what i perceive as harshness is an overwhelming amount of detail including in the high-freqs.

I think I'll stick with digital but I'll do some tests with speaker positioning and high frequency limit in ARC.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15081960
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> I don't know why you wrote about HDMI. My cd player only has stereo analog outputs (RCA and XLR) and a digital coax output.



Sorry. Trying to keep too many conversations straight in my head.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse

NOTE ON ARC 1.2.12


Been "experimenting" and note to anyone trying out this new version - if you do the automated install as opposed to a custom procedure this version may set your D2 back to Factory Default Settings.

This happened to me and only way I knew was I started to do a custom measurement and my triggers did not come on.

Once again shows the importance of having regular Settings file at close hand!

Cheers!

/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/15084049
> 
> 
> NOTE ON ARC 1.2.12
> 
> 
> Been "experimenting" and note to anyone trying out this new version - if you do the automated install as opposed to a custom procedure this version may set your D2 back to Factory Default Settings.
> 
> This happened to me and only way I knew was I started to do a custom measurement and my triggers did not come on.
> 
> Once again shows the importance of having regular Settings file at close hand!
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> /\\/\\



Please do email the details to Nick at Anthem. This problem of Uploads resetting the D2 back to Factory Defaults really needs to be fixed.

--Bob


----------



## kzrsix

Bob...after installing the 1.33 firmware upgrade to my AVM 20-hd, a clicking sound has crept into the audio side when I change channels on my directv recvr. I've done the reload factory defaults, and the system is good for a couple days, then the cricket returns. Thoughts?

Thanks,

John K.


----------



## muad'dib

Well, just finished testing this new ARC..


First off, the last version, 1.2.10, I found to be VERY bass heavy... Too much for my tastes...










As for this new version, I find the bass to be a little weak...Even the levels for the subs are now in the negative levels, as before they were in the positive values..











The quality seems good, just bass different..



So, my conclusion thus far, Version 1.2.9 (AKA. 1.2.8.1) seems to be the best.. has rich bass (not too much, not too little) and very open/smooth sound..











I'm using reference speakers all around, with 2 servo 15 V.2's..



Just my 2 cents...


----------



## lumikola

I have a small problem with center channel output level in D2. It used to work normally, but now (when using test tones) the volume I get from center channel is much weaker than others. This isn't a speaker problem (I've tested that).


Is there something wrong with my settings...? Thanks for your help!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lumikola* /forum/post/15086117
> 
> 
> I have a small problem with center channel output level in D2. It used to work normally, but now (when using test tones) the volume I get from center channel is much weaker than others. This isn't a speaker problem (I've tested that).
> 
> 
> Is there something wrong with my settings...? Thanks for your help!



There are no setting errors you can make that will screw up the test tones internally generated in the Anthem. So if Setup > Speaker Calibration is producing weak output through your Center speaker then you have a hardware problem.


The next step is to isolate it. It could be the speaker, your power amp, your cables to or from the power amp, or your Anthem.


First swap the outputs at the Anthem end between Center and, say, LF. If the problem is still in the Center then the Anthem is eliminated as the possible cause. If the problem moves to the LF then the Anthem is at fault -- call Anthem tech support.


Put the Anthem outputs back as normal and swap the cable at the input to your power amp between Center and, say, LF. If the problem moves to LF then the interconnect cable to your power amp is at fault.


Put the inputs into your Amp back to normal. Now swap the outputs at the amp between Center and, say, LF. If the problem moves to LF then your power amp is at fault.


Put the amp outputs back to normal. Now swap the speaker wire connections at the speaker end between Center and, say, LF. If the problem moves to LF then the speaker wire is at fault.


If the problem stays in Center through all of this then the Center speaker is at fault. The most common speaker fault is that one of the drivers is broken. You will still get audio from the speaker but not as much audio.


--------------------------------------


Also keep in mind that if you have a mix of RCA and XLR connections, there is a designed in 6dB difference between those two types of connections. See the Audio Connections section of the Anthem manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/15085957
> 
> 
> Well, just finished testing this new ARC..
> 
> 
> First off, the last version, 1.2.10, I found to be VERY bass heavy... Too much for my tastes...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for this new version, I find the bass to be a little weak...Even the levels for the subs are now in the negative levels, as before they were in the positive values..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The quality seems good, just bass different..
> 
> 
> 
> So, my conclusion thus far, Version 1.2.9 (AKA. 1.2.8.1) seems to be the best.. has rich bass (not too much, not too little) and very open/smooth sound..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using reference speakers all around, with 2 servo 15 V.2's..
> 
> 
> 
> Just my 2 cents...



Did you re-Measure for 1.2.10 when you found it too bass heavy? Or where you doing calculation based on prior Measurements (as from V1.2.5). I found 1.2.10 (calculated from 1.2.5) to put out a little more bass than 1.2.8.1 (calculated from 1.2.5), but not a lot more. It was consistent with the 1dB rise in the sub speaker volumes that 1.2.10 Uploaded.


Of course for 1.2.12 you have to re-Measure. I'm not going to have a chance to play with 1.2.12 until after Thanksgiving. But then at this rate it will probably have been replaced several times over by then.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kzrsix* /forum/post/15085087
> 
> 
> Bob...after installing the 1.33 firmware upgrade to my AVM 20-hd, a clicking sound has crept into the audio side when I change channels on my directv recvr. I've done the reload factory defaults, and the system is good for a couple days, then the cricket returns. Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John K.



Contact Anthem tech support. They will likely ask you to re-install V1.33 on top of itself to see if that cures the issue. But let them work this through with you.


I presume you are using HDMI audio from your DirecTV receiver, but perhaps not. Do you hear the same problem with optical digital audio, or from any other source device?

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/15085957
> 
> 
> Well, just finished testing this new ARC..
> 
> 
> First off, the last version, 1.2.10, I found to be VERY bass heavy... Too much for my tastes...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for this new version, I find the bass to be a little weak...Even the levels for the subs are now in the negative levels, as before they were in the positive values..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The quality seems good, just bass different..
> 
> 
> 
> So, my conclusion thus far, Version 1.2.9 (AKA. 1.2.8.1) seems to be the best.. has rich bass (not too much, not too little) and very open/smooth sound..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using reference speakers all around, with 2 servo 15 V.2's..
> 
> 
> 
> Just my 2 cents...



I have done remeasurement with 1.2.1.2 and in comparing some of my best known, LFE heavy scenes, I can say that even with the values for Sub lower in the AVM50 menu settings, the LFE experience was very similar to all other versions of ARC I have tried. For the latest version I have changed from 20K to 15K due to better curves. So far go good. I too have the Servo 15









John


----------



## spiderv6

I have decided that it is time to upgrade and a D2 V2 is most probably the one for me (although I intend to listen to one before shelling out seven grand....).


My current processor, the very capable Tag McLaren AV32R DP, is playing up. Occasionally I get no sound from it, normally it comes on line after "warming up". It's totally random. Repairing it involves shipping it to England and then hoping they can fix it. Shipping alone (there and back) will run me $500 so I guess I'm not seeing change out of $1,500 is my best guess.....and I was anyway thinking about upgrading......so I don't think thats an option for me.


So here's the conundrum....


The holidays are almost upon us......the kids are looking forward to watching all their favorite movies on the big screen......I will have both sets of grandparents staying for Christmas and New Year.....the last thing I need is a tempremental processor that may....or may not.....come to life.


I'm not going to see a D2 V2 this side of Christmas I'm pretty sure.....so what to do? Do I buy something decent, but used, in the hope I can re-sell it after the holidays....or do I just get a cheap unit (what I'm not sure) to see me through and then recycle it into a different room afterwards?


----------



## schlitzie

If you're convinced you want a D2V2, order it locally and see if the retailer can give you some kind of loaner/demo unit until it come in


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *schlitzie* /forum/post/15087491
> 
> 
> If you're convinced you want a D2V2, order it locally and see if the retailer can give you some kind of loaner/demo unit until it come in



But that's part of the issue - I'm not 'convinced' because I haven't heard it and I don't feel like making a $7K commitment to something I _may_ hate.


----------



## jayray

Just did some remeasurments with 1.2.12 and my cutoffs are now much more in line with previous measurments. Fronts and centre now the same and sub more in line with previous settings. Will listen this afternoon. Test sofware lots of fun









John


----------



## kzrsix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kzrsix* /forum/post/15085087
> 
> 
> Bob...after installing the 1.33 firmware upgrade to my AVM 20-hd, a clicking sound has crept into the audio side when I change channels on my directv recvr. I've done the reload factory defaults, and the system is good for a couple days, then the cricket returns. Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John K.



Bob, no clicking when on the hdmi side, but present when running component video with either dig. coax or dig hdmi audio.? Another quirk is when doing a spkr. calib., there is no center channel audio when running the automatic tones, but there is cntr. channel audio when in the manual mode. Hopefully the reload of 1.33 will fix these.

Tks.,

j.k.


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15086411
> 
> 
> Did you re-Measure for 1.2.10 when you found it too bass heavy? Or where you doing calculation based on prior Measurements (as from V1.2.5). I found 1.2.10 (calculated from 1.2.5) to put out a little more bass than 1.2.8.1 (calculated from 1.2.5), but not a lot more. It was consistent with the 1dB rise in the sub speaker volumes that 1.2.10 Uploaded.
> 
> 
> Of course for 1.2.12 you have to re-Measure. I'm not going to have a chance to play with 1.2.12 until after Thanksgiving. But then at this rate it will probably have been replaced several times over by then.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob..










For 1.2.10, I used my reading from 1.2.5....


As I did for 1.2.8.1..


For newest ARC, I re-measured with it...



Now, when I say the bass is weak, it's not bad by any means, but some scenes in movies (like slamming doors, etc) that use to have a thump, now is a little weak.. But, other strong bass scenes are still good..










Thanks..


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15087428
> 
> 
> I have decided that it is time to upgrade and a D2 V2 is most probably the one for me (although I intend to listen to one before shelling out seven grand....).
> 
> 
> My current processor, the very capable Tag McLaren AV32R DP, is playing up. Occasionally I get no sound from it, normally it comes on line after "warming up". It's totally random. Repairing it involves shipping it to England and then hoping they can fix it. Shipping alone (there and back) will run me $500 so I guess I'm not seeing change out of $1,500 is my best guess.....and I was anyway thinking about upgrading......so I don't think thats an option for me.
> 
> 
> So here's the conundrum....
> 
> 
> The holidays are almost upon us......the kids are looking forward to watching all their favorite movies on the big screen......I will have both sets of grandparents staying for Christmas and New Year.....the last thing I need is a tempremental processor that may....or may not.....come to life.
> 
> 
> I'm not going to see a D2 V2 this side of Christmas I'm pretty sure.....so what to do? Do I buy something decent, but used, in the hope I can re-sell it after the holidays....or do I just get a cheap unit (what I'm not sure) to see me through and then recycle it into a different room afterwards?



I am pretty sure both sets of grandparents can do with the sound coming out of your tv set.

Stay put and wait for the v2.

That's what i'll do if i were you anyway


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15087428
> 
> 
> I have decided that it is time to upgrade and a D2 V2 is most probably the one for me (although I intend to listen to one before shelling out seven grand....).
> 
> 
> My current processor, the very capable Tag McLaren AV32R DP, is playing up. Occasionally I get no sound from it, normally it comes on line after "warming up". It's totally random. Repairing it involves shipping it to England and then hoping they can fix it. Shipping alone (there and back) will run me $500 so I guess I'm not seeing change out of $1,500 is my best guess.....and I was anyway thinking about upgrading......so I don't think thats an option for me.
> 
> 
> So here's the conundrum....
> 
> 
> The holidays are almost upon us......the kids are looking forward to watching all their favorite movies on the big screen......I will have both sets of grandparents staying for Christmas and New Year.....the last thing I need is a tempremental processor that may....or may not.....come to life.
> 
> 
> I'm not going to see a D2 V2 this side of Christmas I'm pretty sure.....so what to do? Do I buy something decent, but used, in the hope I can re-sell it after the holidays....or do I just get a cheap unit (what I'm not sure) to see me through and then recycle it into a different room afterwards?



Your local Anthem dealer should be able to give you a D2V1 to demo to see if you like the processor. If you like it, order the D2V2 and see if the dealer will give you some type of loaner to use until it arrives.


The loaner might be a cheap receiver with preouts, but that would be better than nothing.


If your dealer really wants to sell you a D2v2, then they should work with you.


Mike


----------



## benleeys

I have been amusing myself comparing calculations with the latest revisions using a measurement originally taken with v1.2.2.


The latest v1.2.12 version seems to plot the measurement graphs rather differently from the earlier version, resulting in a different set of calculations. See attachment below.


No wonder one poster noted that the new measurement he took with the latest revsion seems to show better high frequencies even though he did nothing to his room.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15088714
> 
> 
> I have been amusing myself comparing calculations with the latest revisions using a measurement originally taken with v1.2.2.
> 
> 
> The latest v1.2.12 version seems to plot the measurement graphs rather differently from the earlier version, resulting in a different set of calculations. See attachment below.
> 
> 
> No wonder one poster noted that the new measurement he took with the latest revsion seems to show better high frequencies even though he did nothing to his room.



Interesting! In the past, the charts showed Measured as the unweighted average of all mic positions. I wonder if they have refined that -- or discovered there was a bug in the old charting. Calculated is apparently the application of the mathematical model of the Room Correction parameters to the Measured curve that is shown. So if Measured is changed then the Calculated would change as well.

---Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15088810
> 
> 
> Interesting! In the past, the charts showed Measured as the unweighted average of all mic positions. I wonder if they have refined that -- or discovered there was a bug in the old charting. Calculated is apparently the application of the mathematical model of the Room Correction parameters to the Measured curve that is shown. So if Measured is changed then the Calculated would change as well.
> 
> ---Bob



The important thing is whether this will lead to better sound.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Full Range" Check Box in "test" ARC V1.2.8 or later Targets*


Here's the word from Nick on this: ARC now separates the two concepts of crossover for bass steering (what every AVR does) and "cutoff" for the Room Correction processing (what only ARC does). The "cutoff" for a speaker controls where the Room Correction reduces how aggressively it tries to hit the Target curve so as not to strain the power amp or speaker by forcing it too hard to try to overcome room issues.


It used to be that folks who wanted to override ARC's decisions and "force" full range on a main speaker could do so by lowering the crossover target to 25Hz. With the new algorithm this will no longer work.


So the Full Range check box is provided to do just that. If you check Full Range, ARC will make that speaker pair "Large" as far as bass steering is concerned. The Room Correction "cutoff" may still be at a higher frequency. If you want to force Room Correction to push the amp and speaker all the way down -- lower than ARC thinks is best -- then you must do both settings: Check the Full Range box and also lower the "cutoff" to 25Hz.


EXAMPLE: You select Full Range for your LF/RF speakers but leave the "cutoff" at 40Hz. This will cause ARC to turn off bass steering from those channels -- the full frequency range of LF and RF input will be sent to those speakers and none of it will be mixed into the LFE being sent to the subwoofer. But ARC will not do aggressive Room Correction below around 40Hz for those two speakers -- so the result will be closer to the natural, unmodified response of the speakers and the room below there. The change of crossover will be reflected in the Targets curve at lower frequencies and the impact of the cutoff will be reflected in how closely the Calculated curve matches to the Targets curve at lower frequencies.


If your configuration includes no subwoofer, then the Full Range boxes will all be checked by ARC already -- and grayed out as you can not undo that. But the "cutoff" values will still track what ARC thinks is best given the Measured response on your remaining main speakers.


Nick also mentions that the new algorithm always acts as if "Bypass LFE XOVER" was selected in Setup > Speaker Configuration for any configuration that includes a subwoofer. When you include a subwoofer, the LFE input channel is only played on the subwoofer. If you set a low bass management crossover on the subwoofer, the upper frequencies of LFE are cutoff rather than being steered elsewhere. For non-ARC configurations, the Bypass LFE XOVER setting keeps that from happening so that you don't lose the upper parts of LFE. Typically you would consider turning this on if your sub crossover was set well below 80Hz.


ARC now always acts as if that setting is on so that ARC has the option of using a lower bass management crossover for the subwoofer (if that produces a better solution) without clipping the top of the LFE frequencies. The sub "cutoff" target manages the Room Correction up there so that you don't get excessive sub energy output from LFE input before the LFE rolls off naturally on its own (around 125Hz).


--------------------------------------------------


As usual, Nick emphasizes that folks really ought to trust the choices ARC is making and not turn on Full Range or alter the "cutoff" values willy-nilly. Only alter those settings if you know there is a problem in what ARC is doing and need to fix it.


Also keep in mind that Anthem is still refining this new algorithm in these "test" ARC versions. So some of the above may change before the new stuff is finally released.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15088559
> 
> 
> Your local Anthem dealer should be able to give you a D2V1 to demo to see if you like the processor.



That would be a pretty rational assumption, you are right.


Unfortunately, neither of the two dealers in my area have a D2 or will get a D2 'because they are too expensive to keep on demo"........


----------



## jayray

Well, for what its worth, just listened to my new meaurements with 1.2.12 and this is the best yet. I set it to 15K and the graphs look good but the sound is fantastic. LFE is tight, detail is excellent and soundstage is noticeabley better. I moved my left front in a little and remeasured and this may be contributing to the widened soundfield. Music config also sounds excellent. Bass is very much improved in this version. Even my ipod sounds better.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15088894
> 
> 
> The important thing is whether this will lead to better sound.



Yes, but you also have to keep in mind that Anthem is trying to figure out the best way to show in chart form what is really going on -- given that they don't want to overwhelm people with ALL the data (from all mic positions, etc.). If they have found a more representative way to chart this (even though the audio is not actually different), that is a good thing.


Of course this is assuming the new charts are not suffering from a bug.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15084240
> 
> 
> Please do email the details to Nick at Anthem. This problem of Uploads resetting the D2 back to Factory Defaults really needs to be fixed.
> 
> --Bob



Heard back from Nick on this one and he said that this was an issue in an earlier version that had come back. Will be addressed in next version I assume.


Beware testers!!!


/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/15088982
> 
> 
> Heard back from Nick on this one and he said that this was an issue in an earlier version that had come back. Will be addressed in next version I assume.
> 
> 
> Beware testers!!!
> 
> 
> /\\/\\



So did Nick suggest this was only a problem with the Automatic mode ARC Uploads?


Let me highlight this warning:

*******************************************************


Make sure you have a current set of Saved User and/or Installer Settings *BEFORE* running ARC!


After you do an ARC Upload, go into the Setup menu and confirm that things look correct -- that your Setup menu entries have not reverted to Factory Default settings.


Only *AFTER* you confirm that, then Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the ARC changes.


*******************************************************


If your Setup settings have incorrectly reverted to Factory defaults, do this to recover:


1) Power down the Anthem with the remote, and also power cycle the Anthem's rear panel switch to force things to a fresh state.


2) Power up the Anthem and go to the Setup menu. If you have no video, you can use the Front Panel display to do this.


3) Reload Saved User or Installer Settings. This will get video back.


4) Open your latest ARC results in Advanced mode, and redo the Upload.


5) When that completes, go into the Setup menu to see if things now look correct. If so, you should Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture these new results.


So far we've had no reports of the this failing more than once. The recovery described here always seems to work.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15089221
> 
> 
> So did Nick suggest this was only a problem with the Automatic mode ARC Uploads?
> 
> --Bob



Nada but I did custom measurements/target/upload afterwards and did not happen.


/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A couple corrections from Nick regarding my post above on the Full Range ARC Targets check boxes:



> Quote:
> Just a minor correction or two:
> 
> 
> “If your configuration includes no subwoofer, then the Full Range boxes will all be checked by ARC already -- and grayed out as you can not undo that. But the "cutoff" values will still track what ARC thinks is best given the Measured response on your remaining main speakers.”
> 
> 
> ARC only forces the front L/R to be full range when no sub is selected. Any speaker can be forced to full range but doing so is almost never a good idea for surrounds unless they're full range floor standers (smaller box means less bass - can't argue with physics).
> 
> 
> "Nick also mentions that the new algorithm always acts as if "Bypass LFE XOVER" was selected in Setup > Speaker Configuration for any configuration that includes a subwoofer. When you include a subwoofer, the LFE input channel is only played on the subwoofer. If you set a low bass management crossover on the subwoofer, the upper frequencies of LFE are cutoff rather than being steered elsewhere. For non-ARC configurations, the Bypass LFE XOVER setting keeps that from happening so that you don't lose the upper parts of LFE. Typically you would consider turning this on if your sub crossover was set well below 80Hz."
> 
> 
> This is not a change - LFE with ARC has always been this way. With the newer software the sub's figure may seem high, say 120 Hz where people are used to seeing 80 Hz. That's the correction range number whereas the crossover number in the bass manager (setup menu) will probably be lower. The crossover number does not apply to LFE, which is always run at its full 120 Hz bandwidth and therefore restricted only by the EQ curve.
> 
> 
> Nick



--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15088714
> 
> 
> I have been amusing myself comparing calculations with the latest revisions using a measurement originally taken with v1.2.2.
> 
> 
> The latest v1.2.12 version seems to plot the measurement graphs rather differently from the earlier version, resulting in a different set of calculations. See attachment below.
> 
> 
> No wonder one poster noted that the new measurement he took with the latest revsion seems to show better high frequencies even though he did nothing to his room.



Nick says the new, V1.2.12 charts are correct. I.e., there is an intended change here. He forgot to include it in the release "changes list".


I'm trying to find out now whether this means a change in the actual audio results or merely that there was a charting error in the old software which is now corrected.


-------------------------------------------------------


ETA: Well I got the answer, and I must say it surprised me!



> Quote:
> It affects the audio. Hi Frequency measurement is problematic (mic
> 
> orientation, temp, humidity, reflections from close objects) so before we
> 
> weren't so focused on getting it totally right. Had time to look at it
> 
> again and made some changes.
> 
> 
> Nick



Now keep in mind that the changes are apparently modest. But this means that "test" ARC V1.2.12 should improve not only deep bass but also the highest frequencies (presuming you raise the Max EQ Frequency Target above its default 5KHz value so that ARC actually uses the data collected up there). And what's more, it can do this high frequency stuff even using OLD raw Measurement data.


If you DON'T raise that Target, then of course the Calculated curve will merely track the Measured curve up there (i.e., no "room correction" is being applied up there). But the Measured/Calculated curves will still display closer to what's actually going on at the highest frequencies, so you'll now get a better handle on your real response up there whether corrected or not.


This may also explain why folks (like me) have reported that the new ARC software responds better to raising that Target -- i.e., without introducing additional residual errors at lower frequencies. Since the Measured values are better understood by ARC up there, many folks will find that less correction is even NECESSARY up there -- so less diversion of ARC resources if you raise that Max EQ Frequency Target value.


I also suspect that re-Measuring with "test" ARC V1.2.12 (rather than just feeding it old Measured data), will do an even better job of figuring out your true, high frequency response. (We already know that re-Measurement is required with "test" ARC V1.2.12 to get the full benefit of the new, deep bass algorithm.)

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15088960
> 
> 
> That would be a pretty rational assumption, you are right.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, neither of the two dealers in my area have a D2 or will get a D2 'because they are too expensive to keep on demo"........



The best suggestion I could give would be to buy a used D1 on Audiogon. This would allow you to try out the audio portion of the D2 (same as D1). If you like it, you could choose to sell the D1 for probably little or no loss and buy a new D2V2, or have the D1 upgraded to a D2V2. You would have a warranty on the upgraded parts, but not on the original D1. You could also buy a used D2 on Audiogon, but you are probably risking more money as for now it looks like the D1 has stabilized or is slowly dropping in price in the used market.


Also, I would hope the local dealers can give you fantastic pricing on a new D2V2 when the time comes as they can't claim to have provided much service in the sell or having to carry the overhead of having items in stock for demo......


Mike


----------



## jayray

Everything you mention above Bob, is what I have experienced. Nick said the LFE for "subterranean" subs would be improved and it has. So has the high freq. Just an all-round improvement. As I have mentioned earlier my music config is much better especially the bass response.

John


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15090586
> 
> 
> Nick says the new, V1.2.12 charts are correct. I.e., there is an intended change here. He forgot to include it in the release "changes list".
> 
> 
> I'm trying to find out now whether this means a change in the actual audio results or merely that there was a charting error in the old software which is now corrected.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: Well I got the answer, and I must say it surprised me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now keep in mind that the changes are apparently modest. But this means that "test" ARC V1.2.12 should improve not only deep bass but also the highest frequencies (presuming you raise the Max EQ Frequency Target above its default 5KHz value so that ARC actually uses the data collected up there). And what's more, it can do this high frequency stuff even using OLD raw Measurement data.
> 
> 
> If you DON'T raise that Target, then of course the Calculated curve will merely track the Measured curve up there (i.e., no "room correction" is being applied up there). But the Measured/Calculated curves will still display closer to what's actually going on at the highest frequencies, so you'll now get a better handle on your real response up there whether corrected or not.
> 
> 
> This may also explain why folks (like me) have reported that the new ARC software responds better to raising that Target -- i.e., without introducing additional residual errors at lower frequencies. Since the Measured values are better understood by ARC up there, many folks will find that less correction is even NECESSARY up there -- so less diversion of ARC resources if you raise that Max EQ Frequency Target value.
> 
> 
> I also suspect that re-Measuring with "test" ARC V1.2.12 (rather than just feeding it old Measured data), will do an even better job of figuring out your true, high frequency response. (We already know that re-Measurement is required with "test" ARC V1.2.12 to get the full benefit of the new, deep bass algorithm.)
> 
> --Bob



So with the new test arc software should I just remeasure with it or raise my value from 5khz to say 12khz still? It sounds to me like u are saying I may not need to raise this value if I remeasure with the new acr software.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/15092907
> 
> 
> So with the new test arc software should I just remeasure with it or raise my value from 5khz to say 12khz still? It sounds to me like u are saying I may not need to raise this value if I remeasure with the new acr software.



Re-Measure and see what you get. You may not need to raise the Max EQ Frequency Target.


On the other hand, if there is only a small correction still needed up there, you may find you can raise that Target without messing up the results at lower frequencies.


ARC makes it easy to experiment to see how the charted curves change. But you will still have to trust your ears as to the final result.

--Bob


----------



## lumikola

Thanks Bob. It seems that weak center channel really is a hardware problem, also according to Nick







I could live without center channel, but I suppose contacting the dealer is the next step however...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That's too bad. But yes, if you remove the Center speaker from your Speaker Configuration, the Anthem will steer Center content to the LF/RF speakers (and sub).


But this is a problem in the audio circuits, yes? So you should still be under warranty even if you purchased one of the first D2 units.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15090586
> 
> 
> Nick says the new, V1.2.12 charts are correct. I.e., there is an intended change here. He forgot to include it in the release "changes list"........
> 
> 
> Now keep in mind that the changes are apparently modest. But this means that "test" ARC V1.2.12 should improve not only deep bass but also the highest frequencies (presuming you raise the Max EQ Frequency Target above its default 5KHz value so that ARC actually uses the data collected up there). And what's more, it can do this high frequency stuff even using OLD raw Measurement data.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Thanks for getting the clarification out of Nick.


Actually, from what I can see, the revised plot of the highs and lows are more than "apparently modest". If you examine my attachment, you can see that below 100Hz, the revised plottings start to be gradually raised, till at 25Hz, it is raised by as much as 7dB; at 20kHz, it's 6dB. I'd say that's hell of a big revision!


As far as my measurements are concerned, I am more than happy with the revised highs as I had been very concerned previously at the apparently poor HF response of my Fronts. Can't say as much for the lows, though.







I have always known there's a problem with room modes, and now the charts show it IS REALLY THAT BAD.







One consolation, however, is that it is far easier to lower peaks that raise nulls without stressing the power amps.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Keep in mind that you have to re-Measure with V1.2.12 to get proper application of the new bass algorithm. When you feed it your old V1.2.2 Measurements that doesn't happen.


Also the new ARC is balancing the speakers a bit differently, so the over-all level is raised.


So you may want to compare your charts after you do re-Measurement and allowing for the different speaker volume trim.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15097181
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that you have to re-Measure with V1.2.12 to get proper application of the new bass algorithm. When you feed it your old V1.2.2 Measurements that doesn't happen.
> 
> 
> Also the new ARC is balancing the speakers a bit differently, so the over-all level is raised.
> 
> 
> So you may want to compare your charts after you do re-Measurement and allowing for the different speaker volume trim.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, Bob. That I intend to do as soon as I can find the time. Guess am getting lazy in my old age.









-Ben


----------



## dlynch34

Ok here is my new measurements. Let me know your take.


Thanks


----------



## spiderv6

If I look on audiogon it seems to be around the $5K mark for a unit with ARC or around $4K without.


That seems pretty rich. If I add the $2,750 being reported for a V2 upgrade, I am well into brand new territory if not well past the retail price (and I don't plan on paying retail).


Either the current sellers are way over optimistic or I am missing something here........can anyone comment?


----------



## dlynch34

Final 2 measurements


Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15097384
> 
> 
> If I look on audiogon it seems to be around the $5K mark for a unit with ARC or around $4K without.
> 
> 
> That seems pretty rich. If I add the $2,750 being reported for a V2 upgrade, I am well into brand new territory if not well past the retail price (and I don't plan on paying retail).
> 
> 
> Either the current sellers are way over optimistic or I am missing something here........can anyone comment?



Your analysis is correct. But I see one flaw.


If you OWN a D2 - I don't see a NEED to UPGRADE.


I think it is GREAT that Anthem is making an upgrade available.

I'm sure some D2 owners will take Advantage of it. But I doubt

most will not. The D2 is GREAT and we are HAPPY


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/15097364
> 
> 
> Ok here is my new measurements. Let me know your take.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Don, I take it these are "test" ARC V1.2.12 Measurements, corrrect?


First your sub looks like it is good down to about 30Hz. This is not uncommon. A sub designed to go deeper might get you another octave down into the subsonics. For now, you might want to consider moving your sub closer to a wall or corner to take advantage of some Boundary Gain at the lowest frequencies.


Second, ARC has decided your room has only minimal Room Gain -- the hump near the crossovers. This is likely due to the dip in your LF and RF speakers between 90 and 400Hz -- which may be the natural response of your speakers or may be a combo of room nulls blending together. In any event, I suggest you raise the Room Gain Targets up to something like 2 or 2.5dB and see if you like the result better. Also check to see if there is a low mid-range response adjustment on the speakers that might not be set correctly.


Third, what are you using for the Max EQ Frequency Target? If you've pushed it all the way up to 20KHz you may want to back off on that a bit and see if you get smoother Calculated curve results at the lower frequencies. It is easy to experiment with different values to see the effects.


Fourth, it looks to me like both of your Rear Surround speakers could benefit from some adjustment in height or pointing. I think that may be why they are weak in the high frequencies. ARC can correct a lot of that but not all. If you can raise their Measured curves up there, the Calculated results should improve as well. Keep in mind that most speakers have poor vertical dispersion at high frequencies, so the pointing up or down to direct them to seated ear level is often more important than the pointing side to side.


The results you have now are not bad at all! But I think a little tweaking is in order.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15097384
> 
> 
> If I look on audiogon it seems to be around the $5K mark for a unit with ARC or around $4K without.
> 
> 
> That seems pretty rich. If I add the $2,750 being reported for a V2 upgrade, I am well into brand new territory if not well past the retail price (and I don't plan on paying retail).
> 
> 
> Either the current sellers are way over optimistic or I am missing something here........can anyone comment?



Our best guess right now for a D2 to D2 v.2 upgrade is $2000. There may be an allowance if you already own ARC for the D2. (We think the AVM-50 upgrade may be a bit more.)


The prices reported on Audiogon are the last "asked" prices before the product was reported sold. I.e., if the buyer and seller negotiated a lower price without the buyer adjusting the ad on Audiogon, then Audiogon doesn't know that. So their history of reported prices tends to be biased high. My Rule of Thumb has usually been to assume 10% less.


The ARC upgrade kit for the D2 is $399, so it makes no sense for there to be a $1000 value difference on Audiogon between a D2 with ARC and a D2 without ARC as you could just buy the unit without ARC and purchase a new ARC kit for less.


Finally, keep in mind that any remaining warranty only transfers to the new buyer if you do the used purchase transaction through an authorized Anthem dealer (i.e., somebody traded in a product at the dealer and the dealer is reselling it). This tends to hold DOWN D2 prices on Audiogon (unless the seller is also an authorized dealer). It's tough to say how much.


All that said, the D2 is still a hot product so it doesn't surprise me at all that its resale value is remaining up there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15097488
> 
> 
> Your analysis is correct. But I see one flaw.
> 
> 
> If you OWN a D2 - I don't see a NEED to UPGRADE.



I think this will indeed be true for a lot of D2 owners -- particularly since D2 owners have already understood the logic that says Blu-Ray audio decoding should happen in the PLAYER.


I see a few strong temptations to upgrade though:


1) D2 owners with 7.1 speaker systems will appreciate the v.2's ability to input 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM so they don't have to process the audio when playing 7.1 tracks.


2) Owners pushing the envelope on audio sources will appreciate the v.2's ability to input 192KHz HDMI LPCM


3) Owners with many attached devices will appreciate the extra HDMI sockets.


4) Owners who enjoy tweaking video will likely be eager to get their hands on the new VXP video chip's higher processing bit depth and other features.


And of course there will be some owners who like the idea that the v.2 products support HDMI V1.3c (more robust HDMI connections at the transport layer) and "Deep Color". At the very least they can see for themselves whether there is any difference.


The same is true about lossless bitstream decoding of course. If you want it all -- whether or not you are actually going to use it -- then the v.2 product is tempting.


-----------------------------------------------


ETA: It wouldn't surprise me if Anthem came out with an entirely new pre-pro based on a new platform design before the end of 2009. So some D2 owners may indeed hold out on the v.2 upgrade in the hopes of going that route instead. But in that case you are almost certainly talking trade-in as opposed to upgrade. And such a product could just as easily be delayed into 2010, so early v.2 purchasers get to enjoy this stuff for quite some time compared to those who hold out.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis

I know this has probably been answered 100 times on this thread, but I would love it if someone would explain to me how good or bad this looks and why. What should I be looking at to judge this?


Thanks for the tutorial!


David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15098582
> 
> 
> I know this has probably been answered 100 times on this thread, but I would love it if someone would explain to me how good or bad this looks and why. What should I be looking at to judge this?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tutorial!
> 
> 
> David


*Folks, since we've got "test" ARC versions "in the wild", it helps if you specify which version of ARC you are using to do the Measurements, and if different, which version you are using to do the Calculation and Upload.*


David, these curves don't look bad at all.


You've got a bit of a room null at 25Hz that is affecting the low end of your subwoofer. Some repositioning of the sub by a few inches will make it couple to the room differently. A bit of experimentation with positions may smooth this out. The residual error after ARC's correction is minor, but it's something to look at.


Your Rear speakers are weak around 100Hz. See if they have a bass response adjustment that you can change -- perhaps a rear bass port that needs to be opened. ARC has corrected for most of that, so it's not really a big problem if you can't fix that.


Your basic speaker level (the flat part of the Target curve to the right of the hump at the crossovers) is just a bit low. Try raising the Noise Level value in the Setup > Speaker Calibration menu before you take your next set of Measurements. That controls the level of the test tones ARC uses. Another dB or 2 of Noise Level might raise your curves closer to 75dB. The 73dB you have now is not bad by any means, but if you are going to measure again you might as well try to fix this too.


And I think you can raise the Max EQ Frequency Target above the default 5KHz value and get a bit better correction at high frequencies. You can experiment with different values in ARC without having to re-Measure to see the effect different values have on your Calculated curves. Keep an eye on the low frequencies as well as increased errors down there would suggest you are pushing this Target too far up. A setting of 12KHz or 15KHz might do well for that dip you have at 12KHz, particularly in the Center speaker.


--------------------------------------------


Note that "test" ARC V1.2.12 is supposed to have an improved algorithm at the high frequencies that should also help up there (as well as an all new approach to the deep bass algorithm). When the new ARC software becomes "official", plan on doing a new set of Measurements with it.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15098793
> 
> *Folks, since we've got "test" ARC versions "in the wild", it helps if you specify which version of ARC you are using to do the Measurements, and if different, which version you are using to do the Calculation and Upload.*
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob - sorry - v1.2.12 for both - remeasured today


----------



## CycloneMike

My D2 seems to have a split personality in regards to its video card:


1. There are times when it just won't sync with my TWC HD box. It will indicate "no signal present" on the OSD and keep "flipping" the picture. The front display will flip back and forth from "1080i" to "Main".


2. There are times when it has problems with sync to my DVD player (component)...


3. It will not recognize audio from my TWC HD box via HDMI. Never has.


4. Somtimes it syncs video very quickly to my TWC HD Box and the DVD player.


5. It always has problems with initial sync to my PS3, it may take 10-15 seconds, but it has never failed to sync.


Saturday morning I had this problem. Eventually I unplugged the D2 and plugged it back in with no help. I switched the HDMI input from the TWC HD box with no help. I then went straight from the TWC HD box to the projector for a while and then rerouted it through the D2 and it worked! It also did not exhibit any more problems with the DVD player.


My projector is a Sony VPLVW60.


Thoughts?


I am one of those D2 Owner's that picked the unit up used and so I have no warranty. If I think the problem is with the video card I will just wait for the V2 upgrade a replace the video card then, I really do not want to send it in for service at this point in time...


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mike, this sounds like cable or plug problems. If you are using heavy HDMI cable, the weight of the cable may be causing the plug to shift a bit in the socket and degrade the connection. The problems with HDMI may be putting the video board in a strange state which is causing it to not sync up properly with the Component video from your DVD player.


As for HDMI audio from your TWC box -- make sure it isn't set to "DVI" output mode instead of "HDMI". You may also need to set its audio output format to "bitstream" instead of PCM. And you may have a box that only outputs digital audio if you are tuned to a digital channel, as opposed to an analog channel. In any event, you lose nothing by using optical digital audio cabling instead.


The video card is expensive to replace so if you can hold out for the v.2 upgrade that would definitely be more cost effective.


---------------------------------------------


Also keep in mind that your video problems may be due to the connection from the Anthem to your TV (which you just unplugged and re-plugged).


If the problem happens again, switch to an input without scaler input defined in Setup > Source Setup -- perhaps the AM/FM input on the Anthem, and then see if you can bring up either the Setup menu or the Video Source Adjust > Patterns. These are internally generated and independent of the source device. If you can't bring either of them up then the problem would appear to be on the output side of the Anthem -- the connection to your TV.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I have looked for the Framelock feature in my AVM50 but can't seem to find it.

Is it only in the D2?

John


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15098963
> 
> 
> Mike, this sounds like cable or plug problems. If you are using heavy HDMI cable, the weight of the cable may be causing the plug to shift a bit in the socket and degrade the connection. The problems with HDMI may be putting the video board in a strange state which is causing it to not sync up properly with the Component video from your DVD player.
> 
> 
> As for HDMI audio from your TWC box -- make sure it isn't set to "DVI" output mode instead of "HDMI". You may also need to set its audio output format to "bitstream" instead of PCM. And you may have a box that only outputs digital audio if you are tuned to a digital channel, as opposed to an analog channel. In any event, you lose nothing by using optical digital audio cabling instead.
> 
> 
> The video card is expensive to replace so if you can hold out for the v.2 upgrade that would definitely be more cost effective.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Also keep in mind that your video problems may be due to the connection from the Anthem to your TV (which you just unplugged and re-plugged).
> 
> 
> If the problem happens again, switch to an input without scaler input defined in Setup > Source Setup -- perhaps the AM/FM input on the Anthem, and then see if you can bring up either the Setup menu or the Video Source Adjust > Patterns. These are internally generated and independent of the source device. If you can't bring either of them up then the problem would appear to be on the output side of the Anthem -- the connection to your TV.
> 
> --Bob



The first thing I checked was my HDMI connections as I have a cat that sometimes likes to wander through the cables......that initially did not solve the problem. The TWC box only has an HDMI connection, so no DVI choice.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15099093
> 
> 
> The first thing I checked was my HDMI connections as I have a cat that sometimes likes to wander through the cables......that initially did not solve the problem. The TWC box only has an HDMI connection, so no DVI choice.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



The Motorola made boxes that a lot of these companies use have a setting for whether the HDMI physical output socket acts as an HDMI connection or a DVI connection. The difference is (mainly) no audio for DVI.


In the Comcast/Motorola boxes you have to get into a special menu to set this: Power OFF the box with the remote and then (while the box is still OFF) press the Menu button on the remote. Then go to HDMI settings. I don't know how the TWC box works.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15099051
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I have looked for the Framelock feature in my AVM50 but can't seem to find it.
> 
> Is it only in the D2?
> 
> John



No, it's in the AVM-50 as well.


While viewing the source input in question, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (hold the "7" button) and scroll to the Output panel.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'll be traveling until the first week of December, so I won't be posting that much over the next couple weeks. I expect all of you to solve everything that comes up as it comes up so that there's nothing for me to do when I get back!










--Bob


----------



## BJB23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/15075256
> 
> 
> Brad,
> 
> 
> I have DirecTV via the HR21 Pro unit thru the D2 at mostly 1080i (NFL sunday ticket, etc.). The picture quality is outstanding, really really good. I am not a huge DirecTV fan, I actually left them for my main TV viewing years ago, with the exception of my NFL package (HD compression was WAY too noticeable). I use Comcast HD for all normal viewing, full package of pay channels, etc. But I will say that DirecTV has impressed me lately again with the HD quality of the new satellites they've deployed and the MPEG4 signals with the HR21 Pro unit itself. It's not a Tivo, but it's okay. They keep updating the firmware of the unit, and constant improvement is a good thing. The D2 will deinterlace the 1080i beautifully, and send your Mitsu a very nice 1080p signal. In my case, I have a Sony Qualia 006 which can only accept a 1080i/60 signal, but even so, the D2 1080i/60 output to the set's own internal motion-adaptive deinterlacing renders the picture perfectly.
> 
> 
> As for BluRay, use anything that can send proper BluRay 1080p/24 to the D2. In other words, virtually any BR player will do...concert videos will be 1080i/60, otherwise the signal will be 1080p/24 to the D2, and the D2 will process both perfectly and send glorious 1080p/60 to your Mitsu. All is good. Don't spend ridiculous money on BluRay, the players are all still maturing, high end companies haven't even released their versions yet, and the steep curve of new and better technology means don't corner yourself with big money lost for a "modern, current" player. It will be lacking in 12 months for sure. Older Pioneer units can be had for 300 dollars or less, and will do just fine for the time being. Definitely jump in, enjoy it, but don't drop serious money on it for a good 12 months until the dust settles more. Just my 2 cents.
> 
> 
> Good luck with it,
> 
> Brian




Brian and Bob, thanks for your feedback regarding my questions. My Anthem dealer is getting me a AVM50 to demo for the weekend. As far as I know the video processing between the AVM50 and the D2 is the same. I think I'm going to get a D2 though because of the audio side.


Brian, if you have time could you post the settings you use on your D2 with the HR21. Your display is 1080i correct? But the settings should be the same with the exception of the output resolution. I agree with you on the improvements with DirecTV.


I'm going to wait for the new version of the D2, but if anyone else is interested in getting a D2 now, according to my dealer, Anthem has authorized a price reduction on the D2, $5999 w/ARC. This price might reflect the supposed $7999 price for the new version and $2000 to upgrade a D2 when the new version is available.


Thanks.

-Brad


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Brad,

Yes the D2 and AVM-50 have an identical video processing solution.


Thanks for the pricing update on the current products! That makes sense as otherwise it would be essentially impossible for them to sell the current stuff while waiting for the v.2 products to get finished.

--Bob


----------



## lumikola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15096666
> 
> 
> But this is a problem in the audio circuits, yes? So you should still be under warranty even if you purchased one of the first D2 units.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, it's in the audio circuits. I have still couple of months warranty left, so I guess there shouldn't be any problems with it.


It seems to work perfectly with my Dynaudio Evidence Temptation main speakers however...maybe I should wait for the new video upgrade before sending the unit to Canada?


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BJB23* /forum/post/15100959
> 
> 
> according to my dealer, Anthem has authorized a price reduction on the D2, $5999 w/ARC. This price might reflect the supposed $7999 price for the new version and $2000 to upgrade a D2 when the new version is available.
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -Brad



OK, now it seems like sense is starting to prevail in the market place!!!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15097384
> 
> 
> If I look on audiogon it seems to be around the $5K mark for a unit with ARC or around $4K without.
> 
> 
> That seems pretty rich. If I add the $2,750 being reported for a V2 upgrade, I am well into brand new territory if not well past the retail price (and I don't plan on paying retail).
> 
> 
> Either the current sellers are way over optimistic or I am missing something here........can anyone comment?



Keep in mind also that most peoples are not even aware that a D2V2 is coming soon. When the new model will be officially available, market price of used D2 will fall for the exact reason you just mention. Every potential buyer will do the same math as you did.


Also keep in mind that the added value of the D2V2 is the video processing and the 8 HDMI ports. The inboard audio decoding of TrueHD and DTS MA is not a must since most new BD players are now performing the decoding. Therefore, if you don't need more then 4 HDMI inputs and 1 HDMI output the actual D2 with the ARC do an amazing job.


Therefore, you could see that as a step procurement, buy a D2 at reduced price when the D2V2 will become available and down the road do the upgrade to D2V2 when really needed. Agree, the D2 is expensive but this type of step procurement help financially. This is how I proceeded, I bough an AMV30 used, the next year I bough a DVDO VP50. I used that setup for 9 months, and then sold both of them to get the D2.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15098489
> 
> 
> I think this will indeed be true for a lot of D2 owners -- particularly since D2 owners have already understood the logic that says Blu-Ray audio decoding should happen in the PLAYER.
> 
> 
> I see a few strong temptations to upgrade though:
> 
> 
> 1) D2 owners with 7.1 speaker systems will appreciate the v.2's ability to input 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM so they don't have to process the audio when playing 7.1 tracks.
> 
> 
> 2) Owners pushing the envelope on audio sources will appreciate the v.2's ability to input 192KHz HDMI LPCM
> 
> 
> 3) Owners with many attached devices will appreciate the extra HDMI sockets.
> 
> 
> 4) Owners who enjoy tweaking video will likely be eager to get their hands on the new VXP video chip's higher processing bit depth and other features.
> 
> 
> And of course there will be some owners who like the idea that the v.2 products support HDMI V1.3c (more robust HDMI connections at the transport layer) and "Deep Color". At the very least they can see for themselves whether there is any difference.
> 
> 
> The same is true about lossless bitstream decoding of course. If you want it all -- whether or not you are actually going to use it -- then the v.2 product is tempting.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: It wouldn't surprise me if Anthem came out with an entirely new pre-pro based on a new platform design before the end of 2009. So some D2 owners may indeed hold out on the v.2 upgrade in the hopes of going that route instead. But in that case you are almost certainly talking trade-in as opposed to upgrade. And such a product could just as easily be delayed into 2010, so early v.2 purchasers get to enjoy this stuff for quite some time compared to those who hold out.
> 
> --Bob




I agree with you Bob and my personnal reason for the upgrade to D2V2 is your point 3) and 4). The item 1) being able to compare decocing done in the Player vsin the D2V2 will be fun to use for comparaison but I don't see that as a real added value. Meanwhile, FilmMixer raise the point that decoding in the pre/pro sound better and we need to test that possibility.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15103228
> 
> 
> OK, now it seems like sense is starting to prevail in the market place!!!



You see this will start to push price of current used D2 down.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15100873
> 
> 
> I'll be traveling until the first week of December, so I won't be posting that much over the next couple weeks. I expect all of you to solve everything that comes up as it comes up so that there's nothing for me to do when I get back!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Enjoy whatever you're bound to do wherever you go and come back safely


----------



## bibe2146

Hi Bob,


What is the procedure to connect to the password protected download page on Anthem.


Best Regards


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's no big secret -- if you are working just about any problem with Anthem tech support they'll give it to you -- but Anthem is trying to keep some sort of track of who is using "test" software. At the very least so that they know such folks have been warned that "test" software may produce failures.


So I don't think we should be handing out the password here.


Send an email to Anthem tech support and let them know you would like to participate in trying that "test" software. If the recent discussion here leads you to believe the "test" ARC version will solve a problem you've been having, mention that as well. Odds are they'll email back to you with the password in short order. They already know, of course, that the "test" software is being discussed here on AVS.


Keep in mind that not all the surprises you find in "test" software will be pleasant. Also, it is pretty likely that there will continue to be rapid changes in this ARC "test" software. It is still "Alpha" quality -- which usually means not yet ready for field testing -- not yet "Beta" quality.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kzrsix* /forum/post/15085087
> 
> 
> Bob...after installing the 1.33 firmware upgrade to my AVM 20-hd, a clicking sound has crept into the audio side when I change channels on my directv recvr. I've done the reload factory defaults, and the system is good for a couple days, then the cricket returns. Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John K.



I'm upgrading to v1.33 on Thursday. I have DirecTV HR20 DVR. Will I get this chirping noise on my D2 if I do this upgrade? Were you able to fix the chirping noise Kzrsix? Anybody on here with a D2 with V1.33 and an HR20 that has experienced this same problem?


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/15110608
> 
> 
> I'm upgrading to v1.33 on Thursday. I have DirecTV HR20 DVR. Will I get this chirping noise on my D2 if I do this upgrade? Were you able to fix the chirping noise Kzrsix? Anybody on here with a D2 with V1.33 and an HR20 that has experienced this same problem?



I have a D1 running 1.33 which I believe is the same as a D2 from an audio perspective and I have no issues with my HR20.


I feed the audio via optical since the D1 does not have any HDMI so the audio path might be a little different if you are feeding your D2 via HDMI for the HR20.


----------



## bibe2146

Thank you Bob for the advise.


I had problem with the output HDMI after several week the upgrade to the release 1.33.


When I play with my DVD on the screen I saw a white line around the actor or some object on the HDTV.


Last week the HDMI ouput stop working but my HDMI input work fine because I send back to the component output.


I tried to change my cable nothing same issue.


I tried my DVD plug direct to my HDTV work fine.


Regards


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15111122
> 
> 
> I have a D1 running 1.33 which I believe is the same as a D2 from an audio perspective and I have no issues with my HR20.
> 
> 
> I feed the audio via optical since the D1 does not have any HDMI so the audio path might be a little different if you are feeding your D2 via HDMI for the HR20.



I am using HDMI for my direcTV so I don't know if that helps.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

My installer successfully installed 1.33 into the D2, but is having problems getting the ARC software going. Although he deleted the files when he tried to run the software disc so the mic and software serial Numbers match up, it won't allow this. Saying a the new 1.25 software is different. It is finding the deleted files somewhere in his computer. I don't know if I explained this right but right now we can't run the arc.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Any suggestions?


----------



## yacht422

This question was addressed some time back, but, i have lost the post #.

What is the difference between bitstream and lpcm?

If a panny b/r outputs bitstream codecs(master, et.al.) will my d2 process it properly(fully) -as opposed to the ps3 in lpcm.

I seem to recall bob preferred lpcm, but i do not recall the reason(s)

thx

walt


----------



## jayray

D2 and AVM50 do not decode the hd formats, but they will accept the decoded PCM from your player and pass it on to the amps. Of course, it you have ARC, there will be one other important step to sonic nervana









John


----------



## Bigmoviefan

The Problem is solved. I now have version 1.33 for the D2 and 1.25 for the ARC. Does sound better. HMI switching is faster. I know many of you are experimenting with a new version of ARC but I thought I'd wait till it is official.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/15112850
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?



I have not had any problems just running the new ARC version and loading it right over the old version already on my laptop.

You might want to try this.

First go to Windows Explorer or My Computer and find the Anthem / Anthem Room Correction file in the Progrmming Files folder.

Copy the two serialized files, xxxxxx.xxxxxx.cal and xxxxxx.xxxxxxAnthem.file to your desktop.

Then go to Control Panel and uninstall the old ARC version you have on the laptop.

Check in Windows Explorer or My Computer in the Programming Files folder that the Anthem folder has been fully removed.

If not, remove it after uninstalling via the Control Panel.

Download the new version you are installing and put it into a new folder on your desktop.

Extract it and it will extract into a separate folder on the Desktop called "arc_cd".

Place your two serialized ARC files into the the arc_cd folder before clicking on setup.exe.

Be sure to allow the program to install a necessary programming plugin it requires and will prompt for as it installs.

Hope this helps


----------



## jayray

I have uninstalled the previous version of ARC and then installed the new one on many occasions with no problems. The files remain in a folder on your computer that is then used with the new version of ARC. I have yet to copy those files prior to an install. Don't you just love computers









John


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15112896
> 
> 
> This question was addressed some time back, but, i have lost the post #.
> 
> What is the difference between bitstream and lpcm?
> 
> If a panny b/r outputs bitstream codecs(master, et.al.) will my d2 process it properly(fully) -as opposed to the ps3 in lpcm.
> 
> I seem to recall bob preferred lpcm, but i do not recall the reason(s)
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



The new BlueRay codecs cannot be decoded by the D2 - yet. So you must use LPCM (decoded by the player).


The v2 D2 (and AVM50) will have the ability to decode these codecs as bitstream if you want.


----------



## jayray

*ARC test version 1.2.13 is now out*. Can't believe I beat Bob to the punch. Oh that's right, he's on vacation









John

Notes do not indicate anything different in this version, although I suspect they wouldn't release it if there wasn't.


----------



## bluemark81

My CD player is a Bel Canto CD-1 with dual Burr-Brown 1792 DAC's with 352.8 kHz upsampling frequency. I'm wondering what the best method is in connecting it to my AVM50. I know it is probably best to try all connections to compare which I prefer, but what typically will give the best 2 ch audio when using a good quality cd player?


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15117019
> 
> 
> My CD player is a Bel Canto CD-1 with dual Burr-Brown 1792 DAC's with 352.8 kHz upsampling frequency. I'm wondering what the best method is in connecting it to my AVM50. I know it is probably best to try all connections to compare which I prefer, but what typically will give the best 2 ch audio when using a good quality cd player?



I've got an Electrocompaniet EMC1 with 192Khz upsampling and a D2.

I tried all possible connections.

The one that yielded the best audible sound was the digital one, thus by-passing my DAC. Hard to admit but true. I probably lost something in between but it was negligible compared to the gain keeping all digital and through ARC.


----------



## Ron Alcasid

Hi I hope this is an easy question. I just got my AVM50 w/ARC. I am trying to get 1:1 pixel mapping working on my Panasonic TH-50PH7UY plasma screen. It can accept a native resolution of 1366x768 @ 60Hz through the installed DVI blade. When I set the output on the AVM50 to 1366x768p/60 the display cannot find a signal. I was worried something was wrong with my display so I tried it with my laptop and it works properly showing a really nice sharp picture. I searched this thread and found someone with a similar problem. He used a custom setting to get it working. I found the custom setting in the video output menu but I can't find where I need to set the exact parameters. What am I missing? Thanks.


----------



## ibg5

Hi Bob,


has attentively read the information under references in section TERMINOLOGY AND TECHNOLOGY on the first page. Unambiguity at me has not arisen.

You could give the UNEQUIVOCAL answer to my question?

At me TV - Pioneer PDP-LX6090 (PRO-151FD for USA), SAT - SAMSUNG DSB-B350V, DVD - Pioneer DV-868 AVi (59 AVi for USA).

I connect DVD on HDMI, SAT - on a component, plasma - on HDMI.

What DATA I should use for a HDMI-out?


Best Regards


----------



## MStanic

When viewing BlueRay, is there any point to the video processor in the D2? If not, why are we paying for video processing in the unit assuming that most of us will be upgrading/buying exclusively BlueRay DVD's going forward.


Is it better to decode the sound formats in the player (I have the Sony PS3) or in the D2 V2 when available?


Is there any point to going with the D2 V2 if my TV is not 1.3 compliant? I have a nice TV but 1080i and not 1080p. Pioneer Elite Plasma model PRO 1540HD.


How long is you HDMI cable? Mine is about 25ft so is that too long. Not having any real issues except every now and then I have to turn off/on the D2 (only from initial turn on...never while it's working) because I don't get a blue screen with no picture or a picture with messed up colors. Rarely ever does that happen though. Is there any advantage to going with an HDMI 1.3 cable (on the D2 V2 when available) to take advantage of more bandwith even though my TV is not HDMI 1.3 compliant?


----------



## Axatax




> Quote:
> If not, why are we paying for video processing in the unit assuming that most of us will be upgrading/buying exclusively BlueRay DVD's going forward.



Who are you speaking for?


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/15115788
> 
> 
> The new BlueRay codecs cannot be decoded by the D2 - yet. So you must use LPCM (decoded by the player).
> 
> 
> The v2 D2 (and AVM50) will have the ability to decode these codecs as bitstream if you want.



you have hit on the the root of my question







. the panny, it is claimed, will decode master hd etc, and pass it as bitstream, i believe, over the hdmi cable.







will the d2 NOT accept the bitstream hdmi feed?

if true, then the ps3 looks like a natural choice if one wants all the codecs to be decoded in the player, and passed to the d2 as lpcm.

or, am i missing something?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15122345
> 
> 
> you have hit on the the root of my question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . the panny, it is claimed, will decode master hd etc, and pass it as bitstream, i believe, over the hdmi cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will the d2 NOT accept the bitstream hdmi feed?
> 
> if true, then the ps3 looks like a natural choice if one wants all the codecs to be decoded in the player, and passed to the d2 as lpcm.
> 
> or, am i missing something?



ANY player that DECODES lossless audio - passes it over HDMI

as LPCM which the Anthem Handles like a Charm.


If the Player DOES NOT DECODE - then it passes the lossless

audio over HDMI as a Bitstream and you would NEED a D2-V2

to decode.


DECODE is the word to pay attention to.


In Theory - a decode in the player or a decode in the AVR is

suppose to yield the same results.


My Two Cent Opinion likes the Player decode! But in theory

it should not matter.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15122345
> 
> 
> you have hit on the the root of my question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . the panny, it is claimed, will decode master hd etc, and pass it as bitstream, i believe, over the hdmi cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will the d2 NOT accept the bitstream hdmi feed?
> 
> if true, then the ps3 looks like a natural choice if one wants all the codecs to be decoded in the player, and passed to the d2 as lpcm.
> 
> or, am i missing something?



I don't know the Panasonic, but the D2 cannot decode DTS-MA and Dolby TrueHD bitstream currently. The *player* must decode AND send it as multichannel LPCM over HDMI.


The D2 v2 is supposed to add the ability to decode these internally (sending bitstream). Until then, if you want to hear the DTS-MA/Dolby TrueHD tracks, you HAVE to decode in the player and send LPCM over HDMI.


(drhankz was quicker on the reply...)


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/15120840
> 
> 
> When viewing BlueRay, is there any point to the video processor in the D2? If not, why are we paying for video processing in the unit assuming that most of us will be upgrading/buying exclusively BlueRay DVD's going forward.



Many of us haven't invested in BlueRay heaviliy or at all. With 100s of DVDs, there is continuing reason to need video processing. Plus, the quality level of BlueRay authoring/transfers seems to still be all over the map.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/15120840
> 
> 
> Is it better to decode the sound formats in the player (I have the Sony PS3) or in the D2 V2 when available?



No one knows yet, since the v2 hasn't shipped.









Right now, you HAVE to decode the newer formats in the player. We'll see if there is any difference once we have some v2s in our hands.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/15120840
> 
> 
> Is there any point to going with the D2 V2 if my TV is not 1.3 compliant? I have a nice TV but 1080i and not 1080p. Pioneer Elite Plasma model PRO 1540HD.



The 1.3 is just as valuable for your INPUT devices. HDMI will fallback to previous versions so your display isn't crucial. That said, HDMI 1.3 is probably not important to you. Considering how long most people keep their D2, however, you will probably find it useful in the future.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/15120840
> 
> 
> How long is you HDMI cable? Mine is about 25ft so is that too long. Not having any real issues except every now and then I have to turn off/on the D2 (only from initial turn on...never while it's working) because I don't get a blue screen with no picture or a picture with messed up colors. Rarely ever does that happen though. Is there any advantage to going with an HDMI 1.3 cable (on the D2 V2 when available) to take advantage of more bandwith even though my TV is not HDMI 1.3 compliant?



I'm running an in wall 30 foot HDMI cable with no problems whatsoever. I wouldn't replace the cable - that's not where the 1.3 additions really add value. I doubt your occasional problems are due to your cable. More likely due to a specific device.


For instance, I never have problems with my Oppo DVD player, but have weird things going on with my TivoHD - especially after Tivo updated my firmware.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/15120840
> 
> 
> When viewing BlueRay, is there any point to the video processor in the D2?



Sure! Some folks don't have 1080p displays.


Some folks want to use the Custom Gamma Correction features of the D2 to get best quality imaging on their display.


Some folks want the D2 to de-interlace and upscale "extras" content on the BD discs that are in 480i.


Some folks want to use the video adjustment features of the D2 to get a better levels match between their player and their display.


And a whole bunch of folks with CIH Projector setups want the D2 to due the necessary, anamorphic vertical stretch.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ibg5* /forum/post/15118928
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> has attentively read the information under references in section TERMINOLOGY AND TECHNOLOGY on the first page. Unambiguity at me has not arisen.
> 
> You could give the UNEQUIVOCAL answer to my question?
> 
> At me TV - Pioneer PDP-LX6090 (PRO-151FD for USA), SAT - SAMSUNG DSB-B350V, DVD - Pioneer DV-868 AVi (59 AVi for USA).
> 
> I connect DVD on HDMI, SAT - on a component, plasma - on HDMI.
> 
> What DATA I should use for a HDMI-out?
> 
> 
> Best Regards



For your PRO-151FD equivalent display you will want to use either YCbCr 4:4:4 or YCbCr 4:2:2. Automatic should give you one of these as well.


Odds are you won't spot a difference between them, but I suggest you start with YCbCr 4:4:4. Get familiar with how that looks using your "best picture" level settings. Then switch to YCbCr 4:2:2 and re-adjust you level settings. If you see a difference, go with the one that looks better.


YCbCr 4:4:4 is the default data format for HDMI to HDMI connections.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/15118877
> 
> 
> Hi I hope this is an easy question. I just got my AVM50 w/ARC. I am trying to get 1:1 pixel mapping working on my Panasonic TH-50PH7UY plasma screen. It can accept a native resolution of 1366x768 @ 60Hz through the installed DVI blade. When I set the output on the AVM50 to 1366x768p/60 the display cannot find a signal. I was worried something was wrong with my display so I tried it with my laptop and it works properly showing a really nice sharp picture. I searched this thread and found someone with a similar problem. He used a custom setting to get it working. I found the custom setting in the video output menu but I can't find where I need to set the exact parameters. What am I missing? Thanks.



Ron,

You need to use the Live Video Settings Editor application on a Windows PC. You'll find that application included in the V1.33 firmware download kit on the public download page for the AVM-50. The application talks to your AVM-50 over the same serial connection setup you use for firmware installs. It allows you to make changes in the Video Source Adjust menu of the AVM-50 on the fly (i.e., while viewing video). And it lets you set up and upload both Custom Video timings and Custom Gamma correction curves.


In Live Video Settings Editor, find the section for entering a Custom Video setup. It will offer a choice of "standard" resolutions that is larger than the list in the Setup menu, and also a place to enter completely customized timings. That's the one you want. Once you enter the values and upload that to the Anthem, the Custom choice in the Setup > Video Output > Output Resolution menu will use the timings you have just uploaded.


You only need your PC connected long enough to enter and upload those settings. After that, the Anthem remembers them as the current Custom Output Resolution and you can disconnect your PC.


There is a link in the first post in this thread to the post detailing the custom timings that seem to work best for the 768p Panasonic displays.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bibe2146* /forum/post/15111304
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob for the advise.
> 
> 
> I had problem with the output HDMI after several week the upgrade to the release 1.33.
> 
> 
> When I play with my DVD on the screen I saw a white line around the actor or some object on the HDTV.
> 
> 
> Last week the HDMI ouput stop working but my HDMI input work fine because I send back to the component output.
> 
> 
> I tried to change my cable nothing same issue.
> 
> 
> I tried my DVD plug direct to my HDTV work fine.
> 
> 
> Regards



While viewing the DVD, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" key on the remote). In the Picture panel, check that you have not accidentally turned on the Detail Enhancement option. If it is turned on too high it will produce "halos" around edges.


------------------------------------------------------


Your HDMI output problem could be a lot of things.


First, go into the Setup > Video Output menu (use the Front Panel display if you need to) and change the output resolution temporarily to 480p (or 576p in Europe). This is the "simplest" resolution for HDMI.


Check your other settings in there as well.


Then go to the Setup > Source Setup menu for a source and make sure the correct Video Output Configuration is selected (you have 4 configurations you can define).


If you've got video now, then go back and re-enter the correct output resolution and try that again.


If you are still not getting video, give Anthem tech support a call.


Keep in mind that the on-screen volume display, the on-screen Setup menu, and the on-screen Video Source Adjust menu are all produced internally in the Anthem -- independent of any source device. So you can use them to find out if your output is working at all and then focus on the output side or the input side of the Anthem according to what happens.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

emailed Nick re the new test version of ARC and he said it was to address a very specific problem in someone's config but could likely become the new version.

John



Bob,

the framelock worked perfectly. Don't need to switch video configs now









thanks.


----------



## bluemark81

I still am experiencing the humming issue that occurs before the video track kicks in on my PS3 and dvd. I've contacted Anthem on it, but it seems as though it is not a priority for them. This has only started since I had ARC installed on my AVM50. I've taken a audio/video of it, but I don't think I can post a video here so I've uploaded it onto Youtube. This is a video/audio of me switching from my SAT to PS3. Once the video starts, all is fine, but I get this annoying hum until the video and/or audio track kicks in. And I never had this before having ARC installed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FglzO4F303k


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15127207
> 
> 
> I still am experiencing the humming issue that occurs before the video track kicks in on my PS3 and dvd. I've contacted Anthem on it, but it seems as though it is not a priority for them. This has only started since I had ARC installed on my AVM50. I've taken a audio/video of it, but I don't think I can post a video here so I've uploaded it onto Youtube. This is a video/audio of me switching from my SAT to PS3. Once the video starts, all is fine, but I get this annoying hum until the video and/or audio track kicks in. And I never had this before having ARC installed.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FglzO4F303k



That is EXACTLY what I get even without switching sources. Seems that when the signal is lost to the pj(hdmi related???) this is what happens. Since my flash erase and reinstall the sound is sometimes quieter but it is still there. I've also noticed the display on the AVM50 loses the audio sync and that is when it happens. You should email Nick the video link. That video says it all. Pressing mute does prevent the sound but I agree that it shouldn't happen. Mine has been like this for most of it's one year of operation.

John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15127976
> 
> 
> That is EXACTLY what I get even without switching sources. Seems that when the signal is lost to the pj(hdmi related???) this is what happens. Since my flash erase and reinstall the sound is sometimes quieter but it is still there. I've also noticed the display on the AVM50 loses the audio sync and that is when it happens. You should email Nick the video link. That video says it all. Pressing mute does prevent the sound but I agree that it shouldn't happen. Mine has been like this for most of it's one year of operation.
> 
> John



John:


I e-mailed Nick quite some time ago on this and it was put on the back burner. I did send him the link this morning. Perhaps I will get better results when he sees how severe it is on the video. Somewhat embarrasing having a system that costs this much and makes this type of noise. What do you mean by pj?


----------



## Ron Alcasid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15124542
> 
> 
> In Live Video Settings Editor, find the section for entering a Custom Video setup. It will offer a choice of "standard" resolutions that is larger than the list in the Setup menu, and also a place to enter completely customized timings. That's the one you want. Once you enter the values and upload that to the Anthem, the Custom choice in the Setup > Video Output > Output Resolution menu will use the timings you have just uploaded.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I downloaded the Live Video Settings Editor from Anthem and was able to uploaded the settings from referenced post. It resulted in an image but was over scanned and not 1:1. The closest I can get is by selecting 1024x768p/60 in the video output menu. There is no horizontal or vertical over scan but the first column of pixels are junk. According to the manual that came with the DVI blade, the horizontal and vertical scan frequencies should be 48.36 kHz and 60 Hz respectively with a dot (pixel?) clock frequency of 87.44 MHz to get 1366x768. Interestingly enough 1024x768 has the same horizontal and vertical frequency requirements but a lower dot clock rate of 65 MHz. Is there some methodology used to determine the appropriate parameters for the custom output resolution given this information?


Now I have a new problem, it appears like I am no longer able to upload new settings. If I choose a standard setting that's known to work like 720p60 and upload that into the custom setting I get no video signal on the display when I select custom in the video output menu, yet when I choose the equivalent preset in the video output menu it works just fine. Any ideas?


----------



## Massimo N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15127976
> 
> 
> That is EXACTLY what I get even without switching sources. Seems that when the signal is lost to the pj(hdmi related???) this is what happens. Since my flash erase and reinstall the sound is sometimes quieter but it is still there. I've also noticed the display on the AVM50 loses the audio sync and that is when it happens. You should email Nick the video link. That video says it all. Pressing mute does prevent the sound but I agree that it shouldn't happen. Mine has been like this for most of it's one year of operation.
> 
> John



Mine does the same thing. Anthem had my AVM in their shop for over a month earlier this summer trying to diagnose ... ultimately determining it was a software issue and put in the cue to get resolved. I wrote detailed test scripts and we were able to duplicate it using my AVM and their up/downstream gear.


The more AVM owners that voice this issue to Anthem the better IMO, as it would put a higher priority.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15128051
> 
> 
> John:
> 
> 
> I e-mailed Nick quite some time ago on this and it was put on the back burner. I did send him the link this morning. Perhaps I will get better results when he sees how severe it is on the video. Somewhat embarrasing having a system that costs this much and makes this type of noise. What do you mean by pj?



Bluemark81,

PJ means my projector. I just got a Toshiba XDE 500 for SD, and the sound here even happens when fast forwarding. This is getting very irritating. I have emailed Nick and talked to him about this. It is a priority issue and not enough of us have it. I was assured it would be addresed. I do not get this when input is component, only with hdmi.

John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15130926
> 
> 
> Bluemark81,
> 
> PJ means my projector. I just got a Toshiba XDE 500 for SD, and the sound here even happens when fast forwarding. This is getting very irritating. I have emailed Nick and talked to him about this. It is a priority issue and not enough of us have it. I was assured it would be addresed. I do not get this when input is component, only with hdmi.
> 
> John



John:


Mine is only on hdmi also


----------



## ibg5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15124495
> 
> 
> For your PRO-151FD equivalent display you will want to use either YCbCr 4:4:4 or YCbCr 4:2:2. Automatic should give you one of these as well.
> 
> 
> Odds are you won't spot a difference between them, but I suggest you start with YCbCr 4:4:4. Get familiar with how that looks using your "best picture" level settings. Then switch to YCbCr 4:2:2 and re-adjust you level settings. If you see a difference, go with the one that looks better.
> 
> 
> YCbCr 4:4:4 is the default data format for HDMI to HDMI connections.
> 
> --Bob


*and*



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bob pariseau* /forum/post/14124103
> 
> *Definitive ycbcr 4:4:4 vs. Ycbcr 4:2:2 vs. Rgb data format sizing info from anthem!*
> 
> 
> the following information has been confirmed with anthem for the avm-50 and statement d2:
> 
> 
> Hdmi ycbcr 4:4:4 input or output is always 8 bits per component (24 bits per pixel).
> 
> 
> Hdmi rgb (studio or extended) input or output is always 8 bits per component (24 bits per pixel).
> 
> 
> Hdmi ycbcr 4:2:2 input or output can be either 8 bits per component (16 bits per pixel) or 12 bits per component (24 bits per pixel) -- according to the max allowed by the device at the other end of the cable -- but with the horizontal color resolution halved. Like this: Ycb, ycr, ycb, ycr, etc.
> 
> 
> Note: Hdmi ycbcr 4:2:2 at 10 bits per component (20 bits per pixel) is not supported. Nor is "deep color" hdmi ycbcr 4:4:4 (i.e., more than 8 bits per component / 24 bits per pixel).
> 
> 
> Any of the above input hdmi ycbcr streams is accepted by the gennum vxp video processor chip at the full 8 or 12 bits per component (as described above) but is immediately converted to 10 bits per component rgb (30 bits per pixel) - using high precision color conversion matrices - prior to other internal processing inside the vxp.
> 
> 
> "high precision color conversion matrices", here, means that the constants and math used in the conversion are actually higher resolution than the data stream (in or out) so that the color conversion process itself introduces no quality degradation.
> 
> 
> An input hdmi rgb stream is accepted by the vxp at 8 bits per component and is extended to 10 bits per component (30 bits per pixel) prior to its internal processing.
> 
> 
> The vxp does all the rest of its internal processing (de-interlacing, scaling, gamma correction, etc.) using 10 bits per component (30 bits per pixel) rgb.
> 
> 
> If 12-bit ycbcr 4:2:2 is to be used for output, the vxp, at the end of its processing, converts its results to 12 bit per component (24 bits per pixel) using high precision color conversion matrices.
> 
> 
> If 8-bit ycbcr 4:2:2 is to be used for output, the vxp, at the end of its processing, converts its results to 8 bit per component (16 bits per pixel) using high precision color conversion matrices.
> 
> 
> If ycbcr 4:4:4 output is to be used the vxp converts its results to 8 bits per component (24 bits per pixel) -- again using high precision color conversion matrices.
> 
> 
> Finally, if rgb output is to be used the vxp rounds its results to 8 bits per component (24 bits per pixel).
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> again, see the links collected in the first post of this thread (technology and terminology / data format section) for a more detailed explanation of the differences between these data formats and why you might want to experiment with 12 bit ycbcr 4:2:2 data format when using source or display devices that allow it.
> 
> --bob



I asked you a little about other.


1. How many bits per component on an exit are available at Pioneer DV-59 AVi and how many bits per component are available on input Pioneer PRO-151FD? It is necessary that D2 performed less works on recalculation.


2. What mode - HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4 or HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 promotes more to the best display of shades of the grey. How much I have understood, in HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 the brightness signal is transferred in 2 times more often. Or I am mistaken?


Give the advanced answer.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15131013
> 
> 
> John:
> 
> 
> Mine is only on hdmi also



I have mentioned this to Nick before so I believe they are aware of it. A reminder from others would help. I never experience a loss of signal as indicated on the panel of the AVM50 while inputting with component, s-video or analog cables. Just HDMI. Pain in the butt.









John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15132894
> 
> 
> I have mentioned this to Nick before so I believe they are aware of it. A reminder from others would help. I never experience a loss of signal as indicated on the panel of the AVM50 while inputting with component, s-video or analog cables. Just HDMI. Pain in the butt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I agree. It is a real annoyance. Nick did tell me they are aware of it, but their priority right now is with the new AVM and D2 V2 models. Unfortunately, it now seems that owners of the older units are now being put on the back burner.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

igb5,

The dv-59avi player outputs 8 bits per component, 24 bits per pixel RGB.


I don't know what your display accepts as input. Regardless of what it accepts, it likely converts that internally to 10 bits per component when lighting up the pixels.


Both forms of YCbCr send luminance as often as the stated resolution. 4:2:2 sends color only half as often horizontally.


It is not obvious which will work better with a given panel. Try it both ways and see.

-Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ron Alcasid,

There is a document in the downloaded V1.33 install folder that diagrams the video signal timings. That may help. Also there is a video processor forum here where folks discuss custom video timings.


You may have a problem where your custom values are not being uploaded correctly. Try uploading them again. If the problem persists when uploading timings that should work such as standard timings, give Anthem tech support a call.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Help Please: Check for possible HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 input black levels bug.*


I need help checking something that I can't check with my equipment (and I'm traveling now anyway). To help test this you will need a DVD player (or Blu-Ray or HD-DVD player) that is able to output HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 (not 4:4:4) at BOTH 480i and 480p, and which can pass Blacker than Black output while doing so. You will also need an HDMI or DVI display that can accept Studio RGB input and display Blacker than Black data while doing so. And you will need a calibration DVD that displays Blacker than Black data (e.g., DVE or Avia Pro). If this paragraph is Greek to you, it would probably be best to let someone else help with this test so we don't get tied up in explaining the details.


-------------------------------------


Temporarily set Setup > Video Output > Data Format to Studio RGB.


Using Video Source Adjust > Patterns, verify that the black level settings in your display are adjusted properly for this Studio RGB input. If you don't normally use Studio RGB to your display, then you may need to check the display is set to accept Studio RGB (black=16) instead of Extended RGB (black=0) for example. Temporarily make any necessary changes in the settings/levels in your display to properly display the Anthem's test patterns, paying particular attention to black levels for this Studio RGB input.


Now play a test chart that includes Blacker than Black data off your calibration DVD. For example, the "3 black bars" black levels setting chart in DVE.


Temporarily set your player to output HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 at 480i to the Anthem.


For that Anthem input, confirm that Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space has YCbCr Auto and Studio RGB both checked. If necessary, temporarily change to those.


Next, using only Video Source Adjust > Picture > Bright/Contrast/Color, carefully adjust the Anthem's input black levels (you do this mainly with the Brightness control in this menu). Do this in a darkened room. Raise the Brightness control in this menu (not the one in your display) until the Blacker than Black bar becomes visible, then carefully lower it until the Blacker than Black bar just barely vanishes into the uniform black background and is, thus, no longer visible.


Now temporarily change you player to output HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 AT 480p to the Anthem.


What SHOULD happen is that black levels do not change. The Blacker than Black bar will still be just barely invisible -- merged into the black background. If the bug exists, however, this 480p input will show black levels just a little bit higher. The amount is small -- the equivalent of about 3 steps of Video Source Adjust > Picture > Brightness adjustment. But even that small an amount will be enough to make the Blacker than Black bar rise into visibility if the bug exists. (Again, check this in a darkened room so you can see such a small change.)

*Please report your model of player, your model of display, the particular calibration disc you used, and your results.*


------------------------


Additional info: HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4 input definitely does not exhibit this bug (I've already checked). Black levels are the same for all input resolutions into the Anthem. YCbCr 4:2:2 480i input will likely exhibit the same input black level as any input resolution of YCbCr 4:4:4 (which suggests that the 480i 4:2:2 input black levels are "correct"). YCbCr 4:2:2 480p and all higher 4:2:2 input resolutions will likely exhibit the same amount of higher input black levels if the bug exists. So to test this it is critical that your player is able to output YCbCr 4:2:2 at *480i* as well as at a higher resolution like 480p so you can see the difference (i.e., testing 480p vs. say 1080i won't help). Again, if there is no bug, there will be no difference.


It is not obvious that sending Studio RGB to the display (instead of YCbCr) is actually necessary to test for this bug, but please do test it that way so I can eliminate another possible difference here. You must use Studio RGB output from the Anthem and not Extended RGB to test this.


Thanks!

--Bob


----------



## Ron Alcasid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15134095
> 
> 
> Ron Alcasid,
> 
> There is a document in the downloaded V1.33 install folder that diagrams the video signal timings. That may help. Also there is a video processor forum here where folks discuss custom video timings.
> 
> 
> You may have a problem where your custom values are not being uploaded correctly. Try uploading them again. If the problem persists when uploading timings that should work such as standard timings, give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> --Bob



I figured out what I was doing wrong. I completely missed the option to upload custom resolutions which is not enabled by default. Once I checked that option I was able to upload my settings.


----------



## dlynch34

My latest acr measurements with the latest arc.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15071023
> 
> 
> Emailed Nick re my findings with ARC 1.2.1.0 and he said there will be more coming especially for people with "subterranean subs"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They have been in the HT at Paradigm doing "marathon" testing. Gotta love these guys.
> 
> 
> My experience with 20Khz:
> 
> 1. Wider soundfield
> 
> 2. Noticeably better LFE
> 
> 3. Increased Detail
> 
> this is based on about 4 hours of testing various BR discs and some high resolution Cheskey dvds
> 
> John



I just went from ARC 1.1 to 1.2.5 and really enjoyed the difference. I'd love to hear the 1.2.1.0 But since I don't have a laptop I have to get the Custom installer to do so.(which costs money) Best to wait till the 1.2.1.0 is official and finalized. I wonder when that will be? It's impressive Anthem keeps trying to perfect the ARC.


----------



## thestewman

Anyone like to suggest Blue ray discs to test the HD low loss Dolby and DTS sound codecs.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/15144061
> 
> 
> Anyone like to suggest Blue ray discs to test the HD low loss Dolby and DTS sound codecs.


*Master and Commander


Cloverfield


Hellboy 2


The Incredible Hulk


U-571


Ratatouille*


----------



## mlbrand

My D2 just froze up again after running ARC. This is the third time I've had this happen (almost every time I run ARC) and when it does the only fix that works is to run the flash eraser and reload the system software. I have not been disconnecting my HDMI cables while running ARC, as I thought that was only necessary when upgrading the main system software. BTW, I'm running the latest software v. 1.33, and ARC 1.2.5. I also should mention that I have a good laptop running Windows XP, with a good serial port, and have had no problems at all doing system upgrades and taking ARC measurements. It's only after I run ARC and it loads all the new settings that I have issues getting the D2 to respond. Is anyone else having this issue, is there a fix, or something I'm doing wrong? Should I try a new beta version of ARC?


----------



## dweltman

I just purchased the Oppo 983. I just wanted to confirm what Kal has written previously, that 5.0, 4.0, and 3.0 SACDs (not just 5.1 SACDs) will play the correct number of channels when connected to a D2 via HDMI. Kind of annoying that the less expensive 980 won't do it correctly. But if you want to play multichannel SACD converted to 96/24 PCM for use with the D2/ARC, there is an alternative to the 60G/80G PS3.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/15142870
> 
> 
> I just went from ARC 1.1 to 1.2.5 and really enjoyed the difference. I'd love to hear the 1.2.1.0 But since I don't have a laptop I have to get the Custom installer to do so.(which costs money) Best to wait till the 1.2.1.0 is official and finalized. I wonder when that will be? It's impressive Anthem keeps trying to perfect the ARC.



I suspect there will a more up to date version soon









John


----------



## ibg5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15134025
> 
> 
> igb5,
> 
> The dv-59avi player outputs 8 bits per component, 24 bits per pixel RGB.
> 
> 
> I don't know what your display accepts as input. Regardless of what it accepts, it likely converts that internally to 10 bits per component when lighting up the pixels.
> 
> 
> Both forms of YCbCr send luminance as often as the stated resolution. 4:2:2 sends color only half as often horizontally.
> 
> 
> It is not obvious which will work better with a given panel. Try it both ways and see.
> 
> -Bob



All the same works 4:2:2 is better.


And what colour space is better for using with Pioneer PRO-151FD?

Now at me such options.

INPUT:

- Input - 480/576i (with DVD and SAT);

- Colour space - SDTV (with DVD and SAT);

OUTPUT:

- Output - 1980x1080p x 50 Hz;

- Colour space - SDTV.

It is correct?


I have noticed the following unpleasant moment. At inclusion FrameLock if frequency of a target signal mismatches frequency of an entrance signal connection HDMI is broken. On display D2 there is an inscription: "NEED HDCP-MONITOR". Why it occurs? Firmware - version 1.33


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I was looking at the D2 on Anthems site and couldn't help but to notice Anthem has a sale on the D2.

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/Products/D2/D2.html 


Does anyone here at AVS know the particulars of the sale? This is the first time I've ever noticed an Anthem processor on sale!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The current D2 has been discounted to account for the about-to-be-released D2 v.2.


Basically the idea is to make it more reasonable to buy a D2 now and then pay separately for the upgrade to the D2 v.2 instead of waiting to purchase until the v.2 product ships. Dealers must have told them that everyone was just waiting. [Keep in mind that doing a 2 stage purchase like this will likely require shipping the unit back to the factory for the v.2 upgrade installation.]


This is a heck of a deal for folks who want just a D2 (no plan to upgrade to the v.2 product).

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15158317
> 
> 
> I was looking at the D2 on Anthems site and couldn't help but to notice Anthem has a sale on the D2.
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/Products/D2/D2.html
> 
> 
> Does anyone here at AVS know the particulars of the sale? This is the first time I've ever noticed an Anthem processor on sale!



There was info in this forum already somewhere.


There is a price reduction on existing D2's because of the

upcoming D2v2 Release.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ibg5* /forum/post/15154276
> 
> 
> All the same works 4:2:2 is better.
> 
> 
> And what colour space is better for using with Pioneer PRO-151FD?
> 
> Now at me such options.
> 
> INPUT:
> 
> - Input - 480/576i (with DVD and SAT);
> 
> - Colour space - SDTV (with DVD and SAT);
> 
> OUTPUT:
> 
> - Output - 1980x1080p x 50 Hz;
> 
> - Colour space - SDTV.
> 
> It is correct?
> 
> 
> I have noticed the following unpleasant moment. At inclusion FrameLock if frequency of a target signal mismatches frequency of an entrance signal connection HDMI is broken. On display D2 there is an inscription: "NEED HDCP-MONITOR". Why it occurs? Firmware - version 1.33



The "Auto" setting is almost always best for Color Space for both input and output. It uses SDTV when the resolution is 480i/576i, or 480p/576p. Otherwise it uses HDTV. So when playing SDTV content on an HDTV display at HDTV resolutions you will get SDTV color space on input and HDTV color space on output (the Anthem does the conversion) all automatically.


In Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space, the recommended settings are Auto YCbCr (for when the current input video happens to be in YCbCr data format) and also Studio RGB (for when it is in RGB format). These are the factory default settings. Remember that these settings are remembered separately for each input.


For Setup > Video Output > Color Space, the recommended setting is Auto.


There is no point in changing these settings unless you are trying to fix some problem.


[Technical Note: SDTV and HDTV "color space" refer to the math used when converting between YCbCr and RGB data formats. Broadcast and on-disc video is in YCbCr, but the physical display needs RGB data before it can light up the pixels. SD and HD video use slightly different math. If you get this wrong the error will be most noticeable in greens -- greens will be 15% hot or dull depending on which way you have made the error.]


--------------------------------------


When FrameLock is set to Auto, a new HDMI "handshake" happens every time the input frame rate changes, just as also happens every time the input resolution happens. The "handshake" sets up the HDMI connection for the new input format.


The complaint about HDCP means that the HDCP "copy protection" protocol is not happy. Often this just means you have to use better quality HDMI cables for input and output, but sometimes it means you are trying to send something to your TV that it is not willing to handle. The Pioneer displays have some settings which disable their /24 input for example. I don't know which settings these are, but they have been discussed numerous times in the Blu-Ray Players forum and perhaps someone else here will know the answer. It may be you have one of those settings turned on in your Pioneer so that it is not able to accept the new frame rate that FrameLock is trying to send it.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15158482
> 
> 
> The current D2 has been discounted to account for the about-to-be-released D2 v.2.
> 
> 
> Basically the idea is to make it more reasonable to buy a D2 now and then pay separately for the upgrade to the D2 v.2 instead of waiting to purchase until the v.2 product ships. Dealers must have told them that everyone was just waiting. [Keep in mind that doing a 2 stage purchase like this will likely require shipping the unit back to the factory for the v.2 upgrade installation.]
> 
> 
> This is a heck of a deal for folks who want just a D2 (no plan to upgrade to the v.2 product).
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I admit I don't know much about the D2v2. I have a Denon 3808ci that I'm very happy with. Would you be able to throw out the top two or three differences or advantages the v2 is expected to have over the D2? Ballpark what type of savings could one expect to see on a D2.


I'm thinking of just going with the D2 as is.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/15145154
> 
> 
> My D2 just froze up again after running ARC. This is the third time I've had this happen (almost every time I run ARC) and when it does the only fix that works is to run the flash eraser and reload the system software. I have not been disconnecting my HDMI cables while running ARC, as I thought that was only necessary when upgrading the main system software. BTW, I'm running the latest software v. 1.33, and ARC 1.2.5. I also should mention that I have a good laptop running Windows XP, with a good serial port, and have had no problems at all doing system upgrades and taking ARC measurements. It's only after I run ARC and it loads all the new settings that I have issues getting the D2 to respond. Is anyone else having this issue, is there a fix, or something I'm doing wrong? Should I try a new beta version of ARC?



There have been reports here that running ARC in the automatic mode (as opposed to Custom/Advanced) can apparently result in corrupted uploads. The workaround is to use the Advanced mode.


It is surprising that you are seeing this every time, as it is supposed to be a rare occurrence.


You should give Anthem tech support a call, as your setup may help them diagnose and fix this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15158610
> 
> 
> Bob, I admit I don't know much about the D2v2. I have a Denon 3808ci that I'm very happy with. Would you be able to throw out the top two or three differences or advantages the v2 is expected to have over the D2? Ballpark what type of savings could one expect to see on a D2.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of just going with the D2 as is.



HDMI V1.3c (including Deep Color for what that's worth) vs. V1.1

HDMI LPCM 7.1 192KHz/24-bit input vs. 5.1 96KHz/24-bit

8 HDMI inputs/2 outputs vs. 4 inputs/1 output

Next generation VXP video processor chip -- 12 bit video processing.

Adds decoding for new Blu-Ray audio formats ("lossless" bitstreams) -- TrueHD and DTS-HD MA


The price of the new v.2 is not finalized but is expected to be within $500 of the old D2 price. The D2 discount -- and expected upgrade price from a D2 to a D2 v.2 -- is apparently around $2000.


Both the D2 and the D2 v.2 are bundled with ARC at that pricing.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Thanks Bob!


I did some reading and I believe the D2 would mesh well with my PS3 and my 58-inch Panasonic 1080p display!


Of course me believing is one thing... the wife believing is another!~


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15158613
> 
> 
> There have been reports here that running ARC in the automatic mode (as opposed to Custom/Advanced) can apparently result in corrupted uploads. The workaround is to use the Advanced mode.
> 
> 
> It is surprising that you are seeing this every time, as it is supposed to be a rare occurrence.
> 
> 
> You should give Anthem tech support a call, as your setup may help them diagnose and fix this.
> 
> --Bob



I sent Nick an email and he had me send him my ARC file and is looking into it. I hadn't heard about the auto mode corrupting uploads, so if Nick doesn't have a fix soon I'll try the advanced mode next time.


Thanks,


Mike


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/15158812
> 
> 
> I sent Nick an email and he had me send him my ARC file and is looking into it. I hadn't heard about the auto mode corrupting uploads, so if Nick doesn't have a fix soon I'll try the advanced mode next time.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Mike



Things that I have noticed is that upload is an operation that sends a lot of data to the D2 and you should check the following:

- your serial cable is a good one and not excessively long.

- if you are using a usb-2-serial dongle, check that your usb cable is good.

- check that D2 rs232 config is the factory default: 19200 / Flow control: none, Tx status: off


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

Im not getting any sound from my d2, It was working fine earlier. I moved some stuff around in my rack so I unplugged everything from the back of the anthem and when I was done turned it on and it kept turning off right away and on the fourth try it came on and no sound. I checked everything seems to be good connections, I can hear the sub but no audio?



thank, bob


oops, Im an idiot, I stuck the rca's in the 6 channel ins he he!


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/15160072
> 
> 
> Things that I have noticed is that upload is an operation that sends a lot of data to the D2 and you should check the following:
> 
> - your serial cable is a good one and not excessively long.
> 
> - if you are using a usb-2-serial dongle, check that your usb cable is good.
> 
> - check that D2 rs232 config is the factory default: 19200 / Flow control: none, Tx status: off



I've got a straight through serial cable and a Dell laptop with XP on it that has _always_ performed the main software upgrades without a hitch. That, and after I have to do the flash erase, the main software reload _and_ the ARC file upload, everything works fine again. It seems that perhaps during the ARC measurement process the main D2 software gets corrupted somehow. Hopefully Nick will find out something from the ARC file I sent him, or the newer ARC version coming out will fix it.


----------



## ninja12

Do you connect your D2 to a surge protector or do you connect it directly into the wall outlet?


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Bob, (and everyone else) I need some advice. I confirmed through my dealer that the D2 is on sale for 4800.00 (the same cost the upgrade will be). Right now I have no intention of upgrading anytime soon so 4800.00 is a huge savings.


I'm running Paradigm studio 100v3, CC590, ADP 590v4 and Servo 15v2. I'm driving the speakers via a Bryston 9bsst. I have a 58 inch 1080p Panasonic Plasma and am currently using a Denon 3808ci as my preamp.


I love my set up. Still I have this "thing" stuck in my head that in order to reach my home audio/video nirvana I have to run an Antham processor. I have a Christmas bonus coming that will allow me to get the D2. The only thing I dread is going for it and then thinking it's no different than what I had. The 3808ci is an amazing receiver. My system looks and sounds awesome.


Is Anthem that good? Will I seriously be able to hear and see a difference? Will I finally achieve nirvana? (I realize you can't answer that last question







)


I know you guys may think this is silly. I'm just scared I'll drop another 5k and then realize there's really no difference. I could really use your honest opinion.


Help... please.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15166294
> 
> 
> Bob, (and everyone else) I need some advice. I confirmed through my dealer that the D2 is on sale for 4800.00 (the same cost the upgrade will be). Right now I have no intention of upgrading anytime soon so 4800.00 is a huge savings.
> 
> 
> I'm running Paradigm studio 100v3, CC590, ADP 590v4 and Servo 15v2. I'm driving the speakers via a Bryston 9bsst. I have a 58 inch 1080p Panasonic Plasma and am currently using a Denon 3808ci as my preamp.
> 
> 
> I love my set up. Still I have this "thing" stuck in my head that in order to reach my home audio/video nirvana I have to run an Antham processor. I have a Christmas bonus coming that will allow me to get the D2. The only thing I dread is going for it and then thinking it's no different than what I had. The 3808ci is an amazing receiver. My system looks and sounds awesome.
> 
> 
> Is Anthem that good? Will I seriously be able to hear and see a difference? Will I finally achieve nirvana? (I realize you can't answer that last question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> I know you guys may think this is silly. I'm just scared I'll drop another 5k and then realize there's really no difference. I could really use your honest opinion.
> 
> 
> Help... please.



I had a Denon 3806 and now have the AVM50, with very much the same setup as you re speakers. My amps are the A2 and A5 paradigms. It was a very big jump and that was before ARC. The EQ the denons do is not even close to what ARC does. It transformed my HT into a top notch listening room as well.









John


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Thanks Jay ray!


Two quick questions. The first is how does TrueHD and DTS HD MA work? I know the D2 wont decode them internally via bitstream but how does it do it when the processor doesn't actually have the formats? I know it'll show multi channel in but is it the *exact same* as the DTS HD MA my current Denon has? The second question is about the warranty. What type of warranty comes with it and do you recommended purchasing an extended warranty?


Actually one more question! I'm a tech guy that loves HT! Having said that would I be getting in over my head if I went to a D2? Should a guy that has to ask if the DTS HD MA will be the exact same as my current receiver get something like this?


----------



## nikkos

I would like to ask any AVM-50 owner for about a minute of your time. I have an AVM-50 that has QUITE LOUD chopping/popping when listening to any source AND adjusting the treble or the bass control. When the source is silent the controls are also silent. Anthem has been telling me for over a year that this is "normal" due to the extreme amount of processing being done. Can a few owners please perform the test and let me know if you also hear "significant" chopping/popping of the sound? It is approximately 30-50% of the level of the signal! And this is "normal".







Hard to believe, but Anthem insists that they all do it. Only you guys will be 100% honest with me and let me hear your perception of this problem. I sure would appreciate some responses. Thanks!


----------



## jclem

Nikkos, I don't know if I'm duplicating your situation, but here is what I did with my AVM 50 and I heard no noise or popping---While watching Espn sports news, (through my Tivo box), I took out the Anthem remote, pressed the bass button and then the up button a few ticks, I also pressed the down button and tried the same after pressing the Treble button. No noise here?????


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15167994
> 
> 
> Thanks Jay ray!
> 
> 
> Two quick questions. The first is how does TrueHD and DTS HD MA work? I know the D2 wont decode them internally via bitstream but how does it do it when the processor doesn't actually have the formats? I know it'll show multi channel in but is it the *exact same* as the DTS HD MA my current Denon has?



Since the current D2 doesn't decode these newer formats, all decoding MUST be done in the player and sent to the D2 as mulktichannel LPCM (linear PCM, the standard uncompressed digital audio format of the last 30 years).


The D2v2 will add the internal decoding of these formats.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/15168513
> 
> 
> Since the current D2 doesn't decode these newer formats, all decoding MUST be done in the player and sent to the D2 as mulktichannel LPCM (linear PCM, the standard uncompressed digital audio format of the last 30 years).
> 
> 
> The D2v2 will add the internal decoding of these formats.



See that won't be an issue at all seeing as I have a PS3. In fact that's exactly how I'm using my 3808ci now. I was just a little confused because the 3808 also decodes the formats. I thought maybe the PS3 sent the signal as multichannel LPCM and then the 3808 somehow decoded it and spit out DTS HD MA???


----------



## Spridle1

I have been reading the posts on the new ARC 1.2.12, but have not seen much commentary on the sonic results of the upgrade. Could those who have tried 1.2.12 please describe the differences they are hearing in the sound?


Also, what are the changes in 1.2.12? Is there a change list posted?


Attached are my results with 1.2.5 from a few months ago. Would I benefit from the upgrade to 1.2.12?

Attachment 125361 
Attachment 125362


----------



## AbMagFab

My local Paradigm deal is going out of business (a shame, I really liked him). He's offering up his demo units for sale at a "cheap price" (prices not mentioned yet), and asked if I was interested in any of them.


For the D2, since I'll want a D2v2, what's a good price for the D2v1, used (in a showroom)? I have no issue just waiting for the D2v2 and paying discounted retail, but for a good deal I might snap his up.


Any thoughts?


Thanks,

Mark


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nikkos* /forum/post/15168026
> 
> 
> I would like to ask any AVM-50 owner for about a minute of your time. I have an AVM-50 that has QUITE LOUD chopping/popping when listening to any source AND adjusting the treble or the bass control. When the source is silent the controls are also silent. Anthem has been telling me for over a year that this is "normal" due to the extreme amount of processing being done. Can a few owners please perform the test and let me know if you also hear "significant" chopping/popping of the sound? It is approximately 30-50% of the level of the signal! And this is "normal".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hard to believe, but Anthem insists that they all do it. Only you guys will be 100% honest with me and let me hear your perception of this problem. I sure would appreciate some responses. Thanks!




Don't have an Avm 50, but with my D1, and many other D2's I have heard, adjusted, they ALL have the Bass/Treble issues you stated... Very noticable when turning the Bass/Treble up/down very fast.. More so near the MAX setting.. Also, a source MUST be being played..


Here is the strange thing.. With version 1.11, there are NO clicks/pops doing the same stuff with Bass/treble..










Nicked stated that a Fix will be done if future...











Oh well, now with ARC, I don't need to use those controls anyway...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spridle1* /forum/post/15168913
> 
> 
> I have been reading the posts on the new ARC 1.2.12, but have not seen much commentary on the sonic results of the upgrade. Could those who have tried 1.2.12 please describe the differences they are hearing in the sound?
> 
> 
> Also, what are the changes in 1.2.12? Is there a change list posted?
> 
> 
> Attached are my results with 1.2.5 from a few months ago. Would I benefit from the upgrade to 1.2.12?
> 
> Attachment 125361
> Attachment 125362



Nick mentioned that it would address the subs with very good low freq. capability ie. around the 20 Hz capability at fairly high db levels. I have noticed better LFE with my sub and much better music config., ie. fronts and sub. Previous versions did improve soundstage and detail. All this should be in 1.2.12 or the test version on the support site.

John


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15166294
> 
> 
> Bob, (and everyone else) I need some advice. I confirmed through my dealer that the D2 is on sale for 4800.00 (the same cost the upgrade will be). Right now I have no intention of upgrading anytime soon so 4800.00 is a huge savings.
> 
> 
> I'm running Paradigm studio 100v3, CC590, ADP 590v4 and Servo 15v2. I'm driving the speakers via a Bryston 9bsst. I have a 58 inch 1080p Panasonic Plasma and am currently using a Denon 3808ci as my preamp.
> 
> 
> I love my set up. Still I have this "thing" stuck in my head that in order to reach my home audio/video nirvana I have to run an Antham processor. I have a Christmas bonus coming that will allow me to get the D2. The only thing I dread is going for it and then thinking it's no different than what I had. The 3808ci is an amazing receiver. My system looks and sounds awesome.
> 
> 
> Is Anthem that good? Will I seriously be able to hear and see a difference? Will I finally achieve nirvana? (I realize you can't answer that last question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> I know you guys may think this is silly. I'm just scared I'll drop another 5k and then realize there's really no difference. I could really use your honest opinion.
> 
> 
> Help... please.



Ohdee, is it possible for you to get the dealer to allow a weekend demo of the D2?

That is the only way you're gonna know whether you'll notice the difference.

I'm betting you would notice a difference but whether you like the difference or feel that it is worth the $$$ is something only you can decide.

Does the $4800 include ARC?

BTW, I'm speaking only audio here not video.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15166294
> 
> 
> Bob, (and everyone else) I need some advice. I confirmed through my dealer that the D2 is on sale for 4800.00 (the same cost the upgrade will be). Right now I have no intention of upgrading anytime soon so 4800.00 is a huge savings.
> 
> 
> I'm running Paradigm studio 100v3, CC590, ADP 590v4 and Servo 15v2. I'm driving the speakers via a Bryston 9bsst. I have a 58 inch 1080p Panasonic Plasma and am currently using a Denon 3808ci as my preamp.
> 
> 
> I love my set up. Still I have this "thing" stuck in my head that in order to reach my home audio/video nirvana I have to run an Antham processor. I have a Christmas bonus coming that will allow me to get the D2. The only thing I dread is going for it and then thinking it's no different than what I had. The 3808ci is an amazing receiver. My system looks and sounds awesome.
> 
> 
> Is Anthem that good? Will I seriously be able to hear and see a difference? Will I finally achieve nirvana? (I realize you can't answer that last question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> I know you guys may think this is silly. I'm just scared I'll drop another 5k and then realize there's really no difference. I could really use your honest opinion.
> 
> 
> Help... please.



I upgraded to Anthem from Denon (4803?) about five years ago. First to the AVM30 then to the D2 a couple years back. The jump up in audio quality was significant. I would be surprised if you aren't extremely happy with the Anthem D2. The video processor is excellent. If I remember correctly the Denons offer video switching, but no processing. If you have a dvd player that can output 480i the Anthem will up-convert to 1080p much better than any but the most expensive dvd players. It may even improve the 1080p signal from your ps3.

But the biggest improvement I noticed going from the Denon to the Anthem D2 was in the audio. Both for music and movies. Make sure you get the ARC included with your D2. I think it comes packaged with the newer D2's. The ARC took the exceptional audio of the D2 and raised it to a new level. WOW!

If you are worried, hang on to your Denon and if you don't like the D2 you can return it. Make sure the dealer will offer you a return policy. I would be surprised if you didn't fall in love with the Anthem.

Tom


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/15170983
> 
> 
> Ohdee, is it possible for you to get the dealer to allow a weekend demo of the D2?
> 
> That is the only way you're gonna know whether you'll notice the difference.
> 
> I'm betting you would notice a difference but whether you like the difference or feel that it is worth the $$$ is something only you can decide.
> 
> Does the $4800 include ARC?
> 
> BTW, I'm speaking only audio here not video.



Ya it will ship new with ARC.


They don't usually keep D2's in stock. I'm in Canada so they get the shipped and are in store in only a few days. I should say I noticed the "sale" on Anthems site and then contacted him. He's definitely not trying to push a D2 on me. The retailer said that now with it being so close to the v2 coming out he can't bring one in for me to demo because he's scared he'll get stuck with it. Actually he said he made that mistake with an AVM 30. He brought it in and it sat on the shelf until he had to give it away. Apparently AVM 30's weren't exactly hot once the AVM 50 and D2's came out.


He did however say, like everything they sell I'd have 30 days to return it for a full refund should I not be happy with the product. He just smiled and said I sold you your Bryston amp and your speakers and your sub and I KNOW you won't be returning this processor.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15169151
> 
> 
> My local Paradigm deal is going out of business (a shame, I really liked him). He's offering up his demo units for sale at a "cheap price" (prices not mentioned yet), and asked if I was interested in any of them.
> 
> 
> For the D2, since I'll want a D2v2, what's a good price for the D2v1, used (in a showroom)? I have no issue just waiting for the D2v2 and paying discounted retail, but for a good deal I might snap his up.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark



Okay, he's offering a non-ARC D2 (demo unit) for $4320. Seems a little high, given that new D2's w/ ARC are on audiogon for about that price.


He's also offering a Denon AVP-A1 with the Audyssey Pro kit with a license for $5500 (demo unit).


I think the only appreciable difference now between the A1 and the D2v2 is the hardware upgradability of the D2v2, and the history of firmware upgrades Anthem does?


I'm also concerned as my dealer said that the Anthem, while great, is very finicky. That is often needs to be rebooted, that it sometimes just misbehaves or stops responding to serial commands, that things like volume don't work at all via serial so I'd need IR + serial to control it, etc.


Assuming all else is equal (and I'll give ARC and Audyssey Pro with a license a toss up I think), then should I go with the AVP-A1? I've been waiting for months for the D2v2, but maybe this deal is too good to pass up?


And is the D2v2 ever going to come out anyway??? At this point I question 2009 Q1 even.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I have a D1 and a P5 for audio, same speakers for what it is worth. I have been very happy with the audio quality. To each his/her own but it would really surprise me if you did not like the change. I have found that when I go "window" shopping in HT shops nothing much in the way of audio impresses me now. Except I would like to upgrade to the S6 while my ears can still tell the difference! .


I would suggest that you get the D2v1 and set up the ARC right out of the box. If it does not put a smile on your face take it back. A 30 day full refund policy is as good as a 30 day demo.


PS: I know that there are better but beyond the D1/D2 and Studio you are probably in the top 20% of what is commonly available and into very subjective territory.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15171289
> 
> 
> Ya it will ship new with ARC.
> 
> 
> They don't usually keep D2's in stock. I'm in Canada so they get the shipped and are in store in only a few days. I should say I noticed the "sale" on Anthems site and then contacted him. He's definitely not trying to push a D2 on me. The retailer said that now with it being so close to the v2 coming out he can't bring one in for me to demo because he's scared he'll get stuck with it. Actually he said he made that mistake with an AVM 30. He brought it in and it sat on the shelf until he had to give it away. Apparently AVM 30's weren't exactly hot once the AVM 50 and D2's came out.
> 
> 
> He did however say, like everything they sell I'd have 30 days to return it for a full refund should I not be happy with the product. He just smiled and said I sold you your Bryston amp and your speakers and your sub and I KNOW you won't be returning this processor.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15171579
> 
> 
> I'm also concerned as my dealer said that the Anthem, while great, is very finicky. That is often needs to be rebooted, that it sometimes just misbehaves or stops responding to serial commands, that things like volume don't work at all via serial so I'd need IR + serial to control it, etc.



Your Dealer is as FULL OF BULL S*** as can be.


He is STUCK with the Denon and trying to UNLOAD it on YOU


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15173917
> 
> 
> Your Dealer is as FULL OF BULL S*** as can be.
> 
> 
> He is STUCK with the Denon and trying to UNLOAD it on YOU



I would have asked your dealer how can something be GREAT and FINICKY. If it's great, then it's not finicky. If it's finicky, then it's not great. I have had my D2 for almost a year, and have been very pleased with it. The most important thing is the support that Anthem provides to their customers which is top notch in my book. Every question that I have had they answered it in great detail. Not only is Anthem's customer support top notch; but, the people on this forum are too. Between this forum and Anthem's support, you have a very high percentage that your problem will be resolved.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Guys, I might just pull the trigger on the D2. What is the factory warranty, do you suggest getting an extended warranty and if so how long would you suggest extending it?


----------



## slots1

I agree with everything Ninha said. I have had my D2 for about a year and a half. I have never had to reboot it for problems. Any issue I have had was addressed by Nick or the forum.

I will send my D2 in for a V2 upgrade later next year. Love that they continue to provide upgrade costs. Where most (all) other equipment has to be replaced.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15174098
> 
> 
> Guys, I might just pull the trigger on the D2. What is the factory warranty, do you suggest getting an extended warranty and if so how long would you suggest extending it?



I think the experience of MOST of the owners on this board is - IT DOESN'T FAIL.


There have been a few failures - but I think they are the EXCEPTION.


As a Canadian







- you could always get yours fixed if needed out of warranty with fast turnaround.


Anthem is the BEST in all AREAS of Support.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15174098
> 
> 
> Guys, I might just pull the trigger on the D2. What is the factory warranty, do you suggest getting an extended warranty and if so how long would you suggest extending it?



The warranty is 2 or 3 years, I can't remember which but I'm sure you can find it on Anthem's website. I would not get an extended warranty, they are rarely worth it and definitely not with Anthem's good warranty length and track record.


----------



## slots1

I believe it is now 3 years.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Thank's for the info on the warranty.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15174752
> 
> 
> Thank's for the info on the warranty.



YUP - No extended Warranty Needed


----------



## Spridle1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15170471
> 
> 
> Nick mentioned that it would address the subs with very good low freq. capability ie. around the 20 Hz capability at fairly high db levels. I have noticed better LFE with my sub and much better music config., ie. fronts and sub. Previous versions did improve soundstage and detail. All this should be in 1.2.12 or the test version on the support site.
> 
> John



I wrote to Anthem for the password to the test site. Can anyone else comment on the sound difference when upgrading to ARC 1.2.12, especially for music? I read that it also improves the higher frequencies. What are they referring to in higher frequencies? See my graphs in my prior post, but I ran ARC 1.2.5 at 12K for the high frequency cutoff.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/15174167
> 
> 
> I agree with everything Ninha said. I have had my D2 for about a year and a half. I have never had to reboot it for problems. Any issue I have had was addressed by Nick or the forum.
> 
> I will send my D2 in for a V2 upgrade later next year. Love that they continue to provide upgrade costs. Where most (all) other equipment has to be replaced.



Agree 100% - Anthem rocks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Anthem Statement D2 and AVM-50 Warranty Details for US and Canada*


If you download the updated user manual from the Anthem public download page, you'll find the US and Canadian Warranty details at the back of the manual.


The D2 manual: http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...ual/D2_OM.html 


The AVM-40/AVM-50 combo manual: http://www.anthemAV.com/NewSitev2.0/...OwnersMan.html 


In short, the warranty is 3 years for everything except for the video board and the remotes. The video board warranty is 2 years. The warranty on the remotes is 1 year.


If you do an upgrade, any new parts you get will get a new Warranty of the same sort. I.e., the D2 v.2 upgrade will get you a new 2 years on the new video board and a new 3 years on the new DSP board and back-panel sheet metal.


Please note that the remaining Warranty is NOT TRANSFERABLE if you sell the unit, or buy a used unit, UNLESS the transaction is done through an authorized Anthem dealer.


I don't know where to find the Warranty details for sales outside of the US or Canada. They are likely to be different due to local laws and contracts with Anthem's overseas distributors. Best send an email to Anthem asking for the version specific to your country.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spridle1* /forum/post/15175227
> 
> 
> I wrote to Anthem for the password to the test site. Can anyone else comment on the sound difference when upgrading to ARC 1.2.12, especially for music? I read that it also improves the higher frequencies. What are they referring to in higher frequencies? See my graphs in my prior post, but I ran ARC 1.2.5 at 12K for the high frequency cutoff.



On your high frequency question: Anthem has refined the way they process/interpret the raw Measured data at the highest frequencies (upwards of 15KHz). This means the Measured values better reflect what's really going on up there, and if you raise the Max EQ Frequency Target up that high then the corrections applied by ARC up there will also be better (i.e. better data in makes for better corrections out).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15165584
> 
> 
> Do you connect your D2 to a surge protector or do you connect it directly into the wall outlet?



I have mine connected to an APC brand battery backup power unit less for surge protection (which it also provides) than to avoid having to wait for the D2 to reboot if there is a brief power glitch. I've got my HD-DVR and PS3 on the battery backup as well -- for the same reason.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/15164688
> 
> 
> I've got a straight through serial cable and a Dell laptop with XP on it that has _always_ performed the main software upgrades without a hitch. That, and after I have to do the flash erase, the main software reload _and_ the ARC file upload, everything works fine again. It seems that perhaps during the ARC measurement process the main D2 software gets corrupted somehow. Hopefully Nick will find out something from the ARC file I sent him, or the newer ARC version coming out will fix it.



ARC needs to make some changes in the Setup menu prior to Measurement (zeroing out the speaker volume trims for example). It then restores those after Measurement, and also modifies Setup during the subsequent Upload.


The problem may not be in ARC itself but in some old settings data that's corrupted in your Setup menu or Video Source Adjust menu which is interfering with the changes that ARC is trying to do. Typically if the Setup menu data or Video Source Adjust menu data is corrupt, the unit "fails safe" by reverting to Factory Defaults. But something about this combo of events in your unit may be causing it to seize up.


In addition to your ARC data file, Nick may ask you to nab a copy of your Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu settings. You can nab the Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file using Live Video Settings Editor. You can nab (but NOT view or edit) a copy of your Setup menu settings to a PC file using the outdated version of the Settup Editor that's on the password protected download page (in the folder with the firmware installer) -- be sure to read the text file with that which tells you how to do this. The Anthem engineers can analyze those files to see if there is any corrupt data in them -- and can likely get a fixed file back to you to save you having to do manual re-entries.


Alternative, you could try doing a Restore Factory Defaults and then MANUALLY enter ALL your Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu entries from paper notes. This too would eliminate any chance of old, corrupted data being in there -- perhaps from bugs in older firmware.


I had a problem where my Video Source Adjust menu changes would not survive a power cycle that was due to just this. A Gamma Correction value that I never used was out of range and the video board detected this when it tried to load the saved settings at power up -- causing it to "fail safe" by reverting the Video Source Adjust menu to Factory Defaults. The error probably got into the data in much older firmware, and was only detected in the newer firmware.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I didn't pull the trigger today but I did go in and speak to my retailer. One concern he had was my PS3. He said of course the D2 and PS3 will produce a better end "product" than my current 3808ci and PS3 but he stressed pairing a D2 with a PS3 is doing just that. Pairing a 7000.00 processor with a 200.00 Bluray player. He said to really see what the D2 can do he'd highly recommend me getting into a Denon, Merantz or Oppo (once it's released) Bluray player.


I got the impression he was sorta upselling me. Are any of you guys using a PS3 with your D2? Should I go for the D2 should I do so knowing I'll have to upgrade my BD player sooner rather than later?


Any thoughts would be appreciated.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15177154
> 
> 
> I didn't pull the trigger today but I did go in and speak to my retailer. One concern he had was my PS3. He said of course the D2 and PS3 will produce a better end "product" than my current 3808ci and PS3 but he stressed pairing a D2 with a PS3 is doing just that. Pairing a 7000.00 processor with a 200.00 Bluray player. He said to really see what the D2 can do he'd highly recommend me getting into a Denon, Merantz or Oppo (once it's released) Bluray player.
> 
> 
> I got the impression he was sorta upselling me. Are any of you guys using a PS3 with your D2? Should I go for the D2 should I do so knowing I'll have to upgrade my BD player sooner rather than later?
> 
> 
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.



The PS3 is pretty much the best BD player out right now (LPCM, no bitstream). With the VP in the Anthem, I'm not sure what the BD player could do to improve things?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15171579
> 
> 
> Okay, he's offering a non-ARC D2 (demo unit) for $4320. Seems a little high, given that new D2's w/ ARC are on audiogon for about that price.
> 
> 
> He's also offering a Denon AVP-A1 with the Audyssey Pro kit with a license for $5500 (demo unit).
> 
> 
> I think the only appreciable difference now between the A1 and the D2v2 is the hardware upgradability of the D2v2, and the history of firmware upgrades Anthem does?
> 
> 
> I'm also concerned as my dealer said that the Anthem, while great, is very finicky. That is often needs to be rebooted, that it sometimes just misbehaves or stops responding to serial commands, that things like volume don't work at all via serial so I'd need IR + serial to control it, etc.
> 
> 
> Assuming all else is equal (and I'll give ARC and Audyssey Pro with a license a toss up I think), then should I go with the AVP-A1? I've been waiting for months for the D2v2, but maybe this deal is too good to pass up?
> 
> 
> And is the D2v2 ever going to come out anyway??? At this point I question 2009 Q1 even.



Bob - what's your opinion on the "finicky" nature of the D2? Meaning, is it semi-unstable in dealing with a remote, specifically serial control? And do some of the features just stop working sometimes?


In other words, is it more like a PC, or more like a CE device?


(And I'm not really waffling, I'm just waiting and waiting and waiting for that darned D2v2 to come out... I'd have one already if it would just come out...)


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15177154
> 
> 
> I didn't pull the trigger today but I did go in and speak to my retailer. One concern he had was my PS3. He said of course the D2 and PS3 will produce a better end "product" than my current 3808ci and PS3 but he stressed pairing a D2 with a PS3 is doing just that. Pairing a 7000.00 processor with a 200.00 Bluray player. He said to really see what the D2 can do he'd highly recommend me getting into a Denon, Merantz or Oppo (once it's released) Bluray player.
> 
> 
> I got the impression he was sorta upselling me. Are any of you guys using a PS3 with your D2? Should I go for the D2 should I do so knowing I'll have to upgrade my BD player sooner rather than later?
> 
> 
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.



Yes he is trying to upsell you. The PS3 appears to be a great BD player in that it decodes everything and will be upgradeable.


The only reason to buy one of the other players would be if you were using the analog outputs. Over HDMI a $200 player = $1000 player.


That extra $800 gets you all kinds of things you won't use since all your processing will be done in the D2. For thise who don't have processors, it may be valuable.


For a similar reason, the Oppo DVD players have been a really popular transport for D2 owners - all you want is a solid no-frills transport that passes an unprocessed HDMI stream so the D2 can work it's magic.


An Oppo + D2 is a $169 device with a $7000 processor. Works for me!


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15177328
> 
> 
> The PS3 is pretty much the best BD player out right now (LPCM, no bitstream). With the VP in the Anthem, I'm not sure what the BD player could do to improve things?



That's another thing he was talking about. The D2v2 will decode the audio formats via bitstream. I got the impression he was saying that will _result in a better end product_. That confused me because I thought the processor decoding via bitstream and the processor passing through via LPCM is the exact same thing just a different way of getting from point A to B.


Is that wrong? Will the D2 not produce the same DTS HD MA via LPCM the D2V2 will produce via bitstream? Will the new D2V2 sound better because it decodes the formats internally? Is he trying to get me to go for the D2V2?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15177570
> 
> 
> That's another thing he was talking about. The D2v2 will decode the audio formats via bitstream. I got the impression he was saying that will _result in a better end product_. That confused me because I thought the processor decoding via bitstream and the processor passing through via LPCM is the exact same thing just a different way of getting from point A to B.
> 
> 
> Is that wrong? Will the D2 not produce the same DTS HD MA via LPCM the D2V2 will produce via bitstream? Will the new D2V2 sound better because it decodes the formats internally? Is he trying to get me to go for the D2V2?



In my book, decoding a movie sound via PS3(or any BD capable player) is the same as decoding via Receiver or pre/pro. Internal BD player decoding is even better because the interactivity features of the disc is preserved. The original design of Blu-ray and HD-DVD was for internal decoding anyway. Its just the people at marketing who confuses people that decoding via the other method is better.


The new D2v2 might sound better but not for the reason you stated above.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

So the bottom line is I will get TrueHD and DTS MA using the D2 and PS3 via LPCM!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes.


The D2 is limited to 5.1 channel HDMI LPCM input (at up to 96KHz/24bits) which is upsampled to 192KHz, and which can be processed to yield 7.1 speaker output.


The D2 v.2 can handle 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM input directly at up to 192KHz/24bits.


The v.2 can also decode "lossless" bitstreams, but I recommend that you get a player that decodes those itself and use HDMI LPCM. The PS3 for example.


I use a PS3 with my D2 now and it works great for all types of Blu-Ray audio.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eXcessive* /forum/post/15180172
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm curious what can I do for fixes? or just load new firmware and see if that does it?



Even with OLD FW - Video is great. My D2 is over 2 years old and I just

upgraded this month to new FW after two years of PERFECT Audio and

Video. I only upgraded because of ARC.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15179384
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> 
> The D2 is limited to 5.1 channel HDMI LPCM input (at up to 96KHz/24bits) which is upsampled to 192KHz, and which can be processed to yield 7.1 speaker output.
> 
> 
> The D2 v.2 can handle 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM input directly at up to 192KHz/24bits.
> 
> 
> The v.2 can also decode "lossless" bitstreams, but I recommend that you get a player that decodes those itself and use HDMI LPCM. The PS3 for example.
> 
> 
> I use a PS3 with my D2 now and it works great for all types of Blu-Ray audio.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


You don’t remember me because of the number of people you help around here. You’re the same guy that helped me when I first got my PS3. You told me exactly how to set it up. I told you what my equipment was and you told me to set this to linier LCPM, set this to this set this to this. I set it up as you instructed and it works perfect.


The above post clears up so much. You just gave me the confidence to go and make a 4600.00 purchase. Thank you so much Bob. If I seen you in the real world I’d buy you a beer or two. You help so many people… You really need a gold star by you handle. Thank you so much for taking the time to explain things to us nOObs!


Looking back on my conversation with my retailer yesterday I’m certain he was talking about 7.1. I think he may be assuming I’m running 7.1 when my system is in fact 5.1. Now I know if I want 7.1 DTS HD MA I need a second Bryston to power two additional channels, to upgrade the processor to D2-V2 to handle 7.1 at up to 192KHz/24bits and two affects speakers.


Well I’m off to buy a new processor.










Again Bob, you rock… cyber pats on the back for you!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

eXcessive,

If you are not running the V1.33 firmware (press Select once on the remote to see the firmware number) your first step should be to install that. It is not tough. You download the installer application to a Windows PC, connect that PC to the Anthem with a serial cable, and run the installer.


Go to the first post of this thread and you'll find links to lots of useful posts including help on the firmware install. You must make sure you have no powered HDMI connections during the install, and you must Restore Factory Defaults before the install. After the install, reenter your settings manually or from Saved User Settings. If you are using ARC, also get the V1.2.5 ARC software and install that on your PC and run the ARC setup again to go with your new firmware.


--------------------------------


Also in the first post of this thread, find the link to the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post. That will give you lots of hints for checking your video setup. The problems you report are most commonly due to using HDMI cables that can't handle 1080p video -- bit drop outs and failure of the copy protection handshake.


First make sure the OUTPUT video is working properly using the video screens generated inside the Anthem -- the Setup menu and the Video Source Adjust > Patterns test charts. These are independent of any source device. Only after the output side is working correctly should you worry about setting up the video input from each source device.


Take heart. The problems you are reporting are most likely just a result of improper setup or flaky cables.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15181068
> 
> 
> Now I know if I want 7.1 DTS HD MA I need a second Bryston to power two additional channels, to upgrade the processor to D2-V2 to handle 7.1 at up to 192KHz/24bits and two affects speakers.
> 
> 
> Well I'm off to buy a new processor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again Bob, you rock cyber pats on the back for you!



If you want to someday upgrade to 7.1 - I would still avoid

anything OTHER THAN Adding the AMP and Speakers. Most

of us are running 7.1 out and only 5.1 in.


1) The D2 does such a GREAT job converting 5.1 to 7.1 it

is unlikely you could tell the difference. *Marc [FilmMixer]

who does this for a living said his D2 was so good going from

5.1 to 7.1 - even his TRAINED professional ear hard a very

hard time telling the difference.*


2) There is so little source material at 7.1 it is a waste

of money to upgrade just to handle 7.1 sources.


That is my TWO CENT OPINION


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15177154
> 
> 
> ... Are any of you guys using a PS3 with your D2? ...



Ohdee-

I bought an 80GB PS3 when it first came out, thinking it would be my "interim" BD player until something better showed up. So far nothing better has.


And the PS3 has continued to improve with numerous firmware releases. With its huge installed base and high volume of new unit and game sales, Sony can afford to put far more effort into firmware upgrades than the manufacturer of any dedicated high-end BD player.


For $400 bucks you really can't go wrong.


----------



## pete6737

Hello all,

I'm thinking about replacing my Bryston Sp1.7 with an AVM50. Two real quick questions for you all with anthem experience:


1) what are the audio differences in the avm50 and the d2? My primary concern is audio first. I was going to wait to get a d2 later next year, but a new, out of box demo model avm50 is kinda falling in my lap at about half the sticker price, from an authorized retailer. Before I pull the trigger I was wanting to know what major audio differences I'd lose by getting the avm50 instead of the D2.


2) and....Is anyone familiar with the Bryston sound quality in comparison to the avm 50? The avm 50 is not in a good environment to demo the sound quality...


I'm kinda jumping on this potential purchase "blind" with only the reputation of Anthem as my guide. Thanks in advance for your replies, Pete


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Don't under-value Dr. H's two cents opinion. He's old enough to remember when two cents was worth real money!










In addition, 192KHz input is really for the exotic music formats. So-called "lossless" audio on almost all Blu-Ray discs is only at the 48KHz rate used for studio masters, and no BD movies at all are above 96KHz.


The original D2 remains a phenomenal product. The key items to me in the D2 v.2 are the HDMI V1.3c sockets (much stricter testing standard and thus more reliable/robust) and the new VXP video processor's 12 bits per component (36 bits per pixel) video data path. I also expect the more powerful DSPs in the v.2 will let Anthem add additional audio processing beyond what they can do in the original D2 -- I'm thinking enhanced ARC for example. But that would be a future firmware item.


The additional HDMI sockets on the v.2 are a must have if you have that many things to plug in. The enhanced audio input (7.1, 192KHz) is nice to have to experiment, although I doubt you'll hear any improvement. The same is true about HDMI V1.3 Deep Color support. And decoding of "lossless" bitstreams is pretty much just a check-off item if you follow my advice and buy a decoding Blu-Ray player.


The PS3 should continue to be a very good BD player match with the D2 v.2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Pete6737,

The D2 has a more exotic audio solution than the AVM-50. For example it has a better power supply, and it "upsamples" all digital audio to 192KHz before any processing. The AVM-50 is no slouch, but the D2 is better, and almost everyone posting here who has compared them agrees they can hear the improvement. This includes posters who state they ended up getting the AVM-50 ANYWAY for cost reasons.


The audio section of the D2 is the same as in the D1 (except no HDMI audio input in the D1). The audio of the Avm-50 is the same as the AVM-30. If you search for pro reviews, you may find useful comparisons between the D1 and the AVM-30 that will help you get a handle on the audio. The pro reviews of the D2 and AVM-50 tended to focus on the video.


Note that ARC *IS* now available for the AVM-50 as an $800 upgrade. This involves replacing the DSP board (a dealer install). So check if the AVM-50 you are looking at already has the ARC upgrade because it really REALLY makes a difference in audio quality.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I picked up the D2 today!
























Well ordered anyway!?


My retailer suggested upgrading the power cable to a 70.00 cable. He said it's necessary because the cord supplied is crap. Any truth to that? Did you guys upgrade the power cable?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Oh good grief! The power cord that comes with the D2 is all you need.


I realize it is hard for dealers to resist trying to upsell high profit margin addons like this, so have some pity on him and firmly pull your credit card out of his grasp before he over-heats any further.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15182985
> 
> 
> I picked up the D2 today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well ordered anyway!?
> 
> 
> My retailer suggested upgrading the power cable to a 70.00 cable. He said it's necessary because the cord supplied is crap. Any truth to that? Did you guys upgrade the power cable?



Why order it now when the D2v2 is (hopefully) right around the corner?


----------



## stanger89

Well I'm seriously considering an AVM40 or 50 _now_ *because* the v2 is right around the corner. Well, more specifically, because the "v1"s are on a heck of a sale right now and I don't need HBR decoding, 7.1 HDMI input (for all the reasons mentioned above).


Basically for me, the update to the V2 isn't worth the _massive_ price premium over an on-sale V1.


The only reasonably compelling feature on the V2 for me would be horizontal squeeze on the VP, but that's only a possibility in the future, not even a probably.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15182985
> 
> 
> I picked up the D2 today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well ordered anyway!?
> 
> 
> My retailer suggested upgrading the power cable to a 70.00 cable. He said it's necessary because the cord supplied is crap. Any truth to that? Did you guys upgrade the power cable?



Oh my goodness!!!!! Now that's one for the books.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/15183218
> 
> 
> Well I'm seriously considering an AVM40 or 50 _now_ *because* the v2 is right around the corner. Well, more specifically, because the "v1"s are on a heck of a sale right now and I don't need HBR decoding, 7.1 HDMI input (for all the reasons mentioned above).
> 
> 
> Basically for me, the update to the V2 isn't worth the _massive_ price premium over an on-sale V1.
> 
> 
> The only reasonably compelling feature on the V2 for me would be horizontal squeeze on the VP, but that's only a possibility in the future, not even a probably.



Really? More HDMI ports, improved HDMI hardware, 1.3c spec (good for better compatibility), real 7.1 LPCM over HDMI, 192/24 native input, and an improved VP, just to name a few.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15183433
> 
> 
> Really? More HDMI ports, improved HDMI hardware, 1.3c spec (good for better compatibility), real 7.1 LPCM over HDMI, 192/24 native input, and an improved VP, just to name a few.



I think you missed the part of the post where he said _for him_, that was the only important feature...







Not all those "features" are going to be compelling for everyone versus the cost paid.


Just wondering, but since you're back in this thread, I assume you're going with the D2 over the AVP?


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Son of a... Like you said you can't blame him for trying to make money but still. I don't know, he says it's the same power cord that comes with a computer. A five dollar cord and a good one will make a huge difference. You want to trust them but thank goodness for AVS. Well just so the guy doesn't come across as a complete ass he is giving me 100% of the $1350.00 I paid for my 3808ci against the D2. He said the price of the Denon's have gone up in Canada due to our lagging dollar. They now have a MSRP of 1995.00. Because of this he'll take back my 3808ci and apply the full $1350.00 I paid against the D2. So that's cool of him as I've had the 3808 of eight months.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15183176
> 
> 
> Why order it now when the D2v2 is (hopefully) right around the corner?



I already sorta covered that but I'm getting the D2 at a 2200.00 discount. The same amount it'll cost me to upgrade to a D2v2 when I get around to it. $4800.00 now and $2200.00 some day down the road is easier to swallow than $7000.00 at once.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15183433
> 
> 
> Really?



Yes really. *For me.*



> Quote:
> More HDMI ports,



I only need two today, and I'm _very_ unlikely to ever need more than 4.



> Quote:
> improved HDMI hardware,



If the current "HDMI hardware" works, improved hardware does me little good.



> Quote:
> 1.3c spec (good for better compatibility),



HDMI 1.3 is BS IMO, as for better compatibility, see above.



> Quote:
> real 7.1 LPCM over HDMI,



Whoopdy do. No movies are natively mixed in 7.1 anyway, DPLIIx works great for me (see FilmMixer's quoted comments above).



> Quote:
> 192/24 native input,



I've got 0 24bit 192k sources and no plans to get any.



> Quote:
> and an improved VP,



Like I said, only interesting to me if they add horizontal squeeze.



> Quote:
> just to name a few.



As I said "for me". And there was also a price caveat too. If it weren't for the massive discounts on the "closeout" V1 models right now, then yeah it would be a no brainer to wait. But with the killer pricing on V1 models, given that the V2 models have no benefit for me in the foreseeable future, it makes no sense to wait and pay more.


My understanding is that I can buy a discounted V1, and later upgrade it to V2 functionality (if my sources change or features like H-squeeze are added) later and there's little if any cost differential.


My Blu-ray player doesn't support HBR bitstreaming, and if/when I buy/upgrade I'll just get one that decodes so HBR bitstream decoding are no use to me. ARC, HDMI switching, and Custom Gamma are really what are driving me to want to upgrade. And the V1s have all those.


Remember we're talking about a difference in price of _thousands_ here (near as I can tell). Or hey, maybe I'm way overestimating the discounts (I haven't made the trek to my Anthem dealer yet), so maybe it's all moot and I'll not be buying anything. My 20 is still running strong.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15183834
> 
> 
> I already sorta covered that but I'm getting the D2 at a 2200.00 discount. The same amount it'll cost me to upgrade to a D2v2 when I get around to it. $4800.00 now and $2200.00 some day down the road is easier to swallow than $7000.00 at once.



My thoughts exactly.


----------



## sbwright

How about some Dolby Volume, the volume pump-ups during commercials is getting insane.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/15183903
> 
> 
> Yes really. *For me.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only need two today, and I'm _very_ unlikely to ever need more than 4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the current "HDMI hardware" works, improved hardware does me little good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HDMI 1.3 is BS IMO, as for better compatibility, see above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whoopdy do. No movies are natively mixed in 7.1 anyway, DPLIIx works great for me (see FilmMixer's quoted comments above).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got 0 24bit 192k sources and no plans to get any.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, only interesting to me if they add horizontal squeeze.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said "for me". And there was also a price caveat too. If it weren't for the massive discounts on the "closeout" V1 models right now, then yeah it would be a no brainer to wait. But with the killer pricing on V1 models, given that the V2 models have no benefit for me in the foreseeable future, it makes no sense to wait and pay more.
> 
> 
> My understanding is that I can buy a discounted V1, and later upgrade it to V2 functionality (if my sources change or features like H-squeeze are added) later and there's little if any cost differential.
> 
> 
> My Blu-ray player doesn't support HBR bitstreaming, and if/when I buy/upgrade I'll just get one that decodes so HBR bitstream decoding are no use to me. ARC, HDMI switching, and Custom Gamma are really what are driving me to want to upgrade. And the V1s have all those.
> 
> 
> Remember we're talking about a difference in price of _thousands_ here (near as I can tell). Or hey, maybe I'm way overestimating the discounts (I haven't made the trek to my Anthem dealer yet), so maybe it's all moot and I'll not be buying anything. My 20 is still running strong.



Sounds like you might as well stick with DOS for your PC as well... Planning for zero changes in your HT setup is very short-sighted, IMO.


You'll likely just come to regret this choice, and end up paying more down the road. 5K to 7K isn't really that big a difference, in this space.


(And 1.3c is not BS at all - these formus alone are littered with issues of HDMI compatibility, which 1.3c pretty much eliminates.)


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15183976
> 
> 
> (And 1.3c is not BS at all - these formus alone are littered with issues of HDMI compatibility, which 1.3c pretty much eliminates.)



Do you have some 1.3c gear to back that up?










Until I see it, I won't believe it...


As long as manufacturers aren't certified and tested by a third party, I suspect there will be some issues.


1.3c isn't a guarantee at all.... just a step in the right direction.


Just my .02.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15183976
> 
> 
> Sounds like you might as well stick with DOS for your PC as well...



Thanks for setting me strait, you obviously understand my situation much better than I do.



> Quote:
> Planning for zero changes in your HT setup is very short-sighted, IMO.



I'm not planing for zero changes. I've had my AVM20 for about 5 years, and in that time I've connected I think 1 new device to it. I've got 2 HDMI devices connected to my projector today (PC/BD player, and my DVR), the only other devices I have are a DVD Player (redundant) and Xbox 360 (Component).


I don't collect HT devices.



> Quote:
> You'll likely just come to regret this choice, and end up paying more down the road.



Thanks for the insight







Or did you not notice that the cost of the V1+Upgrade is essentially the same as a V2?



> Quote:
> 5K to 7K isn't really that big a difference, in this space.



If it's not for you then great, wish I were in your shoes. And we're not talking 5k to 7k, I'm talking 3k to 5k (or did you miss the part where I said *AVM50*). And yes, 2k is a big difference. It's the difference between "I can do this", and "Not going to happen".



> Quote:
> (And 1.3c is not BS at all - these formus alone are littered with issues of HDMI compatibility, which 1.3c pretty much eliminates.)



Deep Color, HBR bitstreaming and all the other "must have features" are (IMO). Maybe I'm lucky, but I don't have any of those compatibility issues.


YOU asked why someone would buy a V1 and not wait for a V2. I gave you my reasons for doing that, in my situation. For me it makes sense since the V2 features aren't worth $2000 to me at this time. Don't like those answers, tough, can't handle the answer, don't ask the question.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The trick to getting full value from the stricter testing spec defined for HDMI V1.3c is having V1.3c (and not merely V1.3, V1.3a, or V1.3b) at BOTH ends of the cable. As more V1.3c tested stuff gets out there, what Anthem is doing with the V1.3c hardware in the v.2 product will become more valuable. Of course it is still possible for the HDMI to fail if cables, wall plates, or adapters are flaky, or if you have additional devices in the HDMI signal path -- more than just Source, Anthem, and Display -- and they screw up the signal.


The HDMI V1.3c testing spec also becomes more crucial if you want to do the extra high bandwidth connections that are optional for HDMI V1.3, such as Deep Color.


Anyway, I'm a big believer that digital connection robustness is dominated by the intelligence of the low level hardware -- in this case the HDMI driver chips. I'd much rather the chips take care of the bulk of the likely problems.


But understand that the HDMI V1.3c testing spec deals with the lowest levels of digital signal quality. I.e., it makes sure that chips from different manufacturers can talk together, and that the electrical signal characteristics are as solid as possible so that the chips can survive flaky cables and the like. It is still VERY easy for the higher level HDMI protocols to be screwed up by any given box maker.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/15184074
> 
> 
> YOU asked why someone would buy a V1 and not wait for a V2. I gave you my reasons for doing that, in my situation. For me it makes sense since the V2 features aren't worth $2000 to me at this time. Don't like those answers, tough, can't handle the answer, don't ask the question.



The D2 is selling for 4800. The D2V2 will be (around as nobody knows for sure) 7000. Add 10% tax and the difference is 2500. I'm in the same boat as Stranger89. 2500 is the difference between ok I can swing this now and maybe some day??? I don't think Stranger89 is suggesting the D2 is somehow better than the D2V2. We're talking about what we can afford.


So ya, I'll *settle* (lol







) for and Anthem D2 processor!


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15184206
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'm a big believer that digital connection robustness is dominated by the intelligence of the low level hardware....
> 
> --Bob



Or the intelligence of the low level project managers at a given manufacturer trying to save a couple of bucks and skimping on the testing process or protocol integration...










I do agree that we should see some improvement just based on new chip designs...


However, I recently had a candid conversation with someone in the BDA about this subject... unfortunately, he said it ain't there yet.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbwright* /forum/post/15183920
> 
> 
> How about some Dolby Volume, the volume pump-ups during commercials is getting insane.



Anthem is certainly aware of the hype around this and the competing version from THX as of CEDIA last September. There will likely be more hype at CES in January.


It's probably not even all that hard to implement (once you agree to fork over the licensing fee to Dolby or Thx). But so far I've heard nothing indicating Anthem has this as a priority.


If it is a priority for you, an email to Anthem tech support will definitely get passed to the right product marketing people.


Personally, I might use such a feature. But ONLY for casual TV watching -- not HDTV movies for example -- and only if it was dead simple to disable on the fly. I certainly don't want any such nonsense active during high quality audio as with music or Blu-Ray.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15184212
> 
> 
> The D2 is selling for 4800. The D2V2 will be (around as nobody knows for sure) 7000. Add 10% tax and the difference is 2500. I'm in the same boat as Stranger89. 2500 is the difference between ok I can swing this now and maybe some day??? I don't think Stranger89 is suggesting the D2 is somehow better than the D2V2. We're talking about what we can afford.
> 
> 
> So ya, I'll *settle* (lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) for and Anthem D2 processor!



And that's totally cool, and makes sense. You state it clearly and without any sort of projected anger, which is much easier to communicate with. Thanks!


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15182985
> 
> 
> I picked up the D2 today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well ordered anyway!?
> 
> 
> My retailer suggested upgrading the power cable to a 70.00 cable. He said it's necessary because the cord supplied is crap. Any truth to that? Did you guys upgrade the power cable?



Way to go Ohdee!

Another PS3\\D2 user here.

Although I haven't had exposure to many other BD players, I can say that the PS3 is a solid piece of gear.

Fast, quiet and the PQ\\AQ running through the D2 is great.

Be real careful around that dealer of your's.

I'm surprised he didn't try and sell you a cryogenically-treated shipping box.

Wards off harmful EMT during transit you know.

When your D2 arrives, ask him about kevlar undercoating


----------



## Bob Pariseau

FilmMixer,

Short of outright cheating (in violation of their HDMI license) I don't see how the chip makers can cut corners on the HDMI V1.3c testing spec. As I understand it, there's supposed to be a very expensive test rig approved by HDMI Org, and you attach a test board with your chip and the test rig either passes it or doesn't.


So a box maker like Anthem ought to be able to depend on the V1.3c HDMI chips at least having passed that torture test.


Now what's definitely still all screwed up is the so-called SimPlay cross-manufacturer stuff that's supposed to insure the upper level HDMI protocols are also done right -- or rather that all the box makers do it the same way which makes it de facto right. Of course that's a neat trick since so much of HDMI is optional. This is true for every version of HDMI, but is particularly bad for HDMI V1.3.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15184331
> 
> 
> Anthem is certainly aware of the hype around this and the competing version from THX as of CEDIA last September. There will likely be more hype at CES in January.
> 
> 
> It's probably not even all that hard to implement (once you agree to fork over the licensing fee to Dolby or Thx). But so far I've heard nothing indicating Anthem has this as a priority.
> 
> 
> If it is a priority for you, an email to Anthem tech support will definitely get passed to the right product marketing people.
> 
> 
> Personally, I might use such a feature. But ONLY for casual TV watching -- not HDTV movies for example -- and only if it was dead simple to disable on the fly. I certainly don't want any such nonsense active during high quality audio as with music or Blu-Ray.
> 
> --Bob



Bob... I have found myself chuckling over the past year as people have loudly voiced their opinion about getting master quality tracks on their media, only to have their cries drown out by the same masses crying for dynamic eq and leveling options on their processors, which pretty much negates all of the benefits of having pure 24bit master audio at hand.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15184441
> 
> 
> FilmMixer,
> 
> Short of outright cheating (in violation of their HDMI license) I don't see how the chip makers can cut corners on the HDMI V1.3c testing spec. As I understand it, there's supposed to be a very expensive test rig approved by HDMI Org, and you attach a test board with your chip and the test rig either passes it or doesn't.
> 
> 
> So a box maker like Anthem ought to be able to depend on the V1.3c HDMI chips at least having passed that torture test.
> 
> 
> Now what's definitely still all screwed up is the so-called SimPlay cross-manufacturer stuff that's supposed to insure the upper level HDMI protocols are also done right -- or rather that all the box makers do it the same way which makes it de facto right. Of course that's a neat trick since so much of HDMI is optional. This is true for every version of HDMI, but is particularly bad for HDMI V1.3.
> 
> --Bob



We'll have to wait and see how it goes... as I said, I heard, at the present time, it isn't all smooth sailing..


Not that cheating on the HDMI license is bad.. doesn't Anthem do that with their setup menu tweaks?


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15184433
> 
> 
> And that's totally cool, and makes sense.



That's all I ever said, that the extra features weren't compelling _to me_.



> Quote:
> You state it clearly and without any sort of projected anger, which is much easier to communicate with. Thanks!



Sorry I see now you must have missed the "for me", I just don't appreciate getting told my priorities are wrong.


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15184331
> 
> 
> Anthem is certainly aware of the hype around this and the competing version from THX as of CEDIA last September. There will likely be more hype at CES in January.
> 
> 
> It's probably not even all that hard to implement (once you agree to fork over the licensing fee to Dolby or Thx). But so far I've heard nothing indicating Anthem has this as a priority.



Well maybe they will come up with their own version



> Quote:
> If it is a priority for you, an email to Anthem tech support will definitely get passed to the right product marketing people.
> 
> 
> Personally, I might use such a feature. But ONLY for casual TV watching -- not HDTV movies for example -- and only if it was dead simple to disable on the fly. I certainly don't want any such nonsense active during high quality audio as with music or Blu-Ray.
> 
> --Bob



Not a priority for me, the other half well thats a different conversation.









Some people have other priorities.


You describe exactly how I would expect to use it also.


Just proposing other possibilities, personally if you want to sell me an upgrade, then you need to propose something I need, think I need, or don't have already.

-- Decoding in the pre-pro, no the player does it.

-- Deep colour, no material.


Now:

-- 7.1 sure, although very close with what weve got

-- HDMI 1.3 improved specs possibly, a better friggin connector would be nice, not going to happen for obvious reasons.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15182789
> 
> 
> In addition, 192KHz input is really for the exotic music formats. So-called "lossless" audio on almost all Blu-Ray discs is only at the 48KHz rate used for studio masters, and no BD movies at all are above 96KHz.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob - if I'm running SACD via HDMI from an Oppo 980H, there would be a benefit to the 192KHz inputs on the v2, right?


Is SACD one of the formats you were thinking of when you said "exotic"?


Thanks again,


David


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15184945
> 
> 
> Bob - if I'm running SACD via HDMI from an Oppo 980H, there would be a benefit to the 192KHz inputs on the v2, right?
> 
> 
> Is SACD one of the formats you were thinking of when you said "exotic"?
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> 
> David



I''m not Bob, but I can tell you that since the D2 doesn't decode DSD, the Oppo will need to decode it for you and send it out as PCM.. it will come out as 5.1 @ 88.2kHz... which the D2 will gladly accept.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15184986
> 
> 
> I''m not Bob, but I can tell you that since the D2 doesn't decode DSD, the Oppo will need to decode it for you and send it out as PCM.. it will come out as 5.1 @ 88.2kHz... which the D2 will gladly accept.



FilmMixer,


I continue to be confused by all this so forgive me, but I thought that the Oppo was able to output PCM at 192kHz???


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15183763
> 
> 
> Just wondering, but since you're back in this thread, I assume you're going with the D2 over the AVP?



GOD - I use Marc's name once in VEIN







and he comes back.

He must have a filter on his name


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15185006
> 
> 
> FilmMixer,
> 
> 
> I continue to be confused by all this so forgive me, but I thought that the Oppo was able to output PCM at 192kHz???



It can, but it handles DSD/SACD at 88.2 (same as the PS3.)....


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15185201
> 
> 
> GOD - I use Marc's name once in VEIN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and he comes back.
> 
> He must have a filter on his name



I check the thread every day, Hank... Just finished a film and have a week before the next one... it's pretty easy to figure out my work schedule based on my post count.










I'm making the decision myself about what my next move is (either D2 or AVP..)


Either way, I'm not going away that easily.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15185245
> 
> 
> I check the thread every day, Hank... Just finished a film and have a week before the next one... it's pretty easy to figure out my work schedule based on my post count.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm making the decision myself about what my next move is (either D2 or AVP..)
> 
> 
> Either way, I'm not going away that easily.



Hi Marc - always nice to have you here even if your sound comes from a DENON!


BTW - ARC is awesome - way better than what Denon uses.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15184331
> 
> 
> Anthem is certainly aware of the hype around this [Dolby Volume] and the competing version from THX as of CEDIA last September. There will likely be more hype at CES in January.
> 
> 
> It's probably not even all that hard to implement (once you agree to fork over the licensing fee to Dolby or Thx). But so far I've heard nothing indicating Anthem has this as a priority.



The complexity is similar to that of room EQ, since it uses a the same kind of filterbank. As a result, it's quite easy for a product using Audyssey to add their dynamic volume as it uses the same filterbank for both operations. On the other hand, since Audyssey is yet to offer Dynamic Volume as a standalone process, a product using ARC would also have to adopt their room EQ, which I doubt is a viable option for Anthem. As a result, it would actually be easier to adopt Dolby Volume, especially if they share the filterbank resources (easy to do).



> Quote:
> Personally, I might use such a feature. But ONLY for casual TV watching -- not HDTV movies for example -- and only if it was dead simple to disable on the fly. I certainly don't want any such nonsense active during high quality audio as with music or Blu-Ray.



I fully agree. And yes, one button turns it on/off.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15185245
> 
> 
> I check the thread every day, Hank... Just finished a film and have a week before the next one... it's pretty easy to figure out my work schedule based on my post count.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm making the decision myself about what my next move is (either D2 or AVP..)
> 
> 
> Either way, I'm not going away that easily.



Oooo, if you go for the D2, will you be debating its merits with Sr. Trainotti? I'd luv to hear that discussion.


----------



## pete6737

Bob Pariseau,

Thank you for your response to my post. I think I will hold out for a d2. Thanks, Pete


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15185230
> 
> 
> It can, but it handles DSD/SACD at 88.2 (same as the PS3.)....



So if the Oppo doesn't do it, does any SACD player output at 192kHz?


----------



## ~Ohdee~

What kind of balanced XLR interconnects do I need? Female to female, male to male or female to male? I reason I ask is I'm not trusting my dealer when it come to interconnects. Not after the 70.00 power cable thing. I need five cables and he only sells them packages of two. He's charging me 175.00 per package for Ultra Link XLR's 575.00 tax in! Is that fair? Should I look on line? If so, where should I look and what do I need?


Thanks again!


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15187090
> 
> 
> What kind of balanced XLR interconnects do I need? Female to female, male to male or female to male? I reason I ask is I'm not trusting my dealer when it come to interconnects. Not after the 70.00 power cable thing. I need five cables and he only sells them packages of two. He's charging me 175.00 per package for Ultra Link XLR's 575.00 tax in! Is that fair? Should I look on line? If so, where should I look and what do I need?
> 
> 
> Thanks again!



Try bluejeanscable . F-M which you can confirm by looking at the rear of the D2 (or the picture in the manual) and your amp(s).


----------



## obie_fl

Ohdee - You will need Female to Male XLR cables. Blue Jeans are very nice and much cheaper then your dealer's. If you want to save even more and still quite nice cables try Monoprice . If you haven't figured it out by now your dealer is trying to get some of his profit back by selling you some fancy cables.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3no* /forum/post/15187290
> 
> 
> Try bluejeanscable . F-M which you can confirm by looking at the rear of the D2 (or the picture in the manual) and your amp(s).



Looking at the manual it's hard to tell for sure. All it says is Main Audio Output (10 balanced jacks).


----------



## ~Ohdee~

WOW!


I have a friend that works in a Pro Audio shop. (concert stuff) They supply all kinds of equipment. I called her and asked how much for 5 Balanced XLR's F/M. She said at 3 feet, 15.00 each. I told her I was quoted 525.00 and she raiser her voice and said WHAT! She's going to talk to her boss and make sure the cables she's talking about will work (she said they use balanced XLR's for microphones) and then she'll get back to me.


Pardon the expression but I'll be pissed off if I can get the same cables they're going to charge me 550.00 for 75.00 bucks!


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15187777
> 
> 
> Looking at the manual it's hard to tell for sure. All it says is Main Audio Output (10 balanced jacks).



Standard XLR connections are polarized so that a standard M-F cable will connect an output with an input.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/15187711
> 
> 
> Ohdee - You will need Female to Male XLR cables. Blue Jeans are very nice and much cheaper then your dealer's. If you want to save even more and still quite nice cables try Monoprice . If you haven't figured it out by now your dealer is trying to get some of his profit back by selling you some fancy cables.



Obie, do you know if they're both 3 pin?


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15187939
> 
> 
> Obie, do you know if they're both 3 pin?



Again, 3pin is standard and necessary.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/15187993
> 
> 
> Again, 3pin is standard and necessary.



Thank you!


My friend said it could also be five pin (but very unlikely).


So, I already know the answer to this but I'll ask just to be sure. Is there *NO DIFFERENCE* between a 120.00 cable and a 15.00 cable?


----------



## 3no




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15187939
> 
> 
> Obie, do you know if they're both 3 pin?



see p 12/102 in the manual . the solid white dots are male pins. the white circles with black fill are female sockets.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

That's amazing!


A power cable and 5 XLR's $654.50!


Instead no power cable needed and 5 XLR's $82.50!


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15188015
> 
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> 
> My friend said it could also be five pin (but very unlikely).
> 
> 
> So, I already know the answer to this but I'll ask just to be sure. Is there *NO DIFFERENCE* between a 120.00 cable and a 15.00 cable?



To state the obvious: $105!! IMHO, little, if any.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15188015
> 
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> 
> My friend said it could also be five pin (but very unlikely).
> 
> 
> So, I already know the answer to this but I'll ask just to be sure. Is there *NO DIFFERENCE* between a 120.00 cable and a 15.00 cable?



Differences? In theory, *maybe.* In practice, not often.


As long as the wire and connector fit the application (e.g., speaker wire is not good for low level signal interconnects and vice versa) and the components are good quality (e.g. Belden wire is the standard for stage and studio use) then you should have no problem.


----------



## John3419

Hi, have you got any idea of a US/canadian dealer who could sell a 220/240unit of the D2v1 (with ARC) both used as new or demo?


Yes, i'm european and i'm thinking about buyin' a 220v unit overseas (US or Canada) and after upgrading here in Europe to v2 when i'll have enough funds, since Anthem Statement prices (as all other A/V equipments) are considerably higher here than in US...


Have you got any answer to my question?


Thank you very much in advance...


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15186714
> 
> 
> So if the Oppo doesn't do it, does any SACD player output at 192kHz?



Not that I know of, but the other question is why would you want it to?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15183834
> 
> 
> Son of a... Like you said you can't blame him for trying to make money but still. I don't know, he says it's the same power cord that comes with a computer. A five dollar cord and a good one will make a huge difference. You want to trust them but thank goodness for AVS. Well just so the guy doesn't come across as a complete ass he is giving me 100% of the $1350.00 I paid for my 3808ci against the D2. He said the price of the Denon's have gone up in Canada due to our lagging dollar. They now have a MSRP of 1995.00. Because of this he'll take back my 3808ci and apply the full $1350.00 I paid against the D2. So that's cool of him as I've had the 3808 of eight months.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already sorta covered that but I'm getting the D2 at a 2200.00 discount. The same amount it'll cost me to upgrade to a D2v2 when I get around to it. $4800.00 now and $2200.00 some day down the road is easier to swallow than $7000.00 at once.




This is what think, the current pricing allow to get a D2V2 in two steps. You enjoy the unit now and do not wait and break the cost in two procurement which is sometime easier to swollow.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15184024
> 
> 
> Do you have some 1.3c gear to back that up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until I see it, I won't believe it...
> 
> 
> As long as manufacturers aren't certified and tested by a third party, I suspect there will be some issues.
> 
> 
> 1.3c isn't a guarantee at all.... just a step in the right direction.
> 
> 
> Just my .02.



I don't neither believe in the miracle of HDMI 1.3c.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15186714
> 
> 
> So if the Oppo doesn't do it, does any SACD player output at 192kHz?



Is there any source material at 192?


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15189110
> 
> 
> Is there any source material at 192?



Don't know - what is standard SACD?


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15189110
> 
> 
> Is there any source material at 192?



A little but not on SACD.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15189778
> 
> 
> Don't know - what is standard SACD?



SACD uses an entirely different scheme to sample and encode audio than PCM - called DSD. The sampling frequency is 2.8 MHz - but that doesn't mean it's 64 times as good as a CD!


The two encoding schemes are difficult to compare since they are so different. There has been a lot of debate about DSD vs. PCM.


At this point, if DSD/SACD sounds better than many CDs, it is unclear whether it is because of better D/A conversion processes, superiority of effective bit-depth (CD-Audio 16 bits is IMHO insufficient for high-end audio), or many other variables.


In conclusion, you really can't say SACD = specific sampling rate because that doesn't apply in the same way as with PCM.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

SACD's DSD uses a single-bit-wide bitstream to encode both amplitude and frequency.


An LPCM stream of 192KHz of 24 bit samples is 4.6 million bits per second of information.


An LPCM stream of 96KHz of 24 bit samples is 2.3 million bits per second of information.


Contrast with SACD DSD of 2.8 million bits per second of information.


Traditional CDs are 44.1KHz of 16 bit samples -- 700 thousand bits per second of information.


The resolution limits of human hearing for dynamic range (bits per sample) is somewhere around 20 bits per sample. Going much above that doesn't add any additional dynamics precision that the ear can hear.


The resolution limits of human hearing for frequency is around 20KHz. Information theory says you must have twice as many samples per second as the highest frequency you wish to encode or you are guaranteed to introduce errors in the LOWER frequencies when you try to reconstitute the real-world analog audio (see "Nyquist Limit" on Wikipedia). That why CDs are recorded at little above the Nyquist Limit for 20KHz -- i.e., 44.1 KHz sample rate.


Some purists believe they can hear digital processing noise when CDs are played and so the more exotic audio formats use 96KHz sample rate but with the encoded frequency range still limited to what the human ear can hear.


It is also the case that some processing algorithms are easier to implement if you first "upsample" the digital audio to a higher sample rate than what you are trying to preserve. I.e., the algorithm doesn't have to be quite so clever to keep from introducing artifacts, so you can do more with the processing power you have available. And that's where 192KHz comes from.


But again, something like 20 bit samples at something like a 60KHz sample rate pretty much covers anything the human ear can distinguish. So 192KHz/24bit is certainly gilding the lilly UNLESS you are doing upsampling to get there so as to ease the audio processing burden.


I.e., it really doesn't make a whole heck of a lot of sense to try to capture and ship on disc anything above the 96KHz/24bit level.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I went and picked up those XLR's.


88.00 Bucks!


I'm like so you really don't think there's any difference between these and the 175.00 Ultra Links. She says Ohdee we use these between two pieces of audio equipment that are worth a combined $250,000.00!


I said point well taken....










One other question??? (sorry guys) Are gold plated necessary. My friend’s boss said no. He said I wouldn't be able to tell the difference on a three foot run without humidity issues and whatnot. He said he has them but they're nearly three times the price of the ones I got. He highly recommended taking the cheap ones I did.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15190592
> 
> 
> I went and picked up those XLR's.
> 
> 
> 88.00 Bucks!
> 
> 
> I'm like so you really don't think there's any difference between these and the 175.00 Ultra Links. She says Ohdee we use these between two pieces of audio equipment that are worth a combined $250,000.00!
> 
> 
> I said point well taken....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One other question??? (sorry guys) Are gold plated necessary. My friend's boss said no. He said I wouldn't be able to tell the difference on a three foot run without humidity issues and whatnot. He said he has them but they're nearly three times the price of the ones I got. He highly recommended taking the cheap ones I did.



I splurged and bought ones that cost $15.00 each from Markertek (Canare)for the 2-meter versions of which I needed five. I also bought a 5-meter and two 4-meter ones that cost a few more bucks for two other channels and a subwoofer. They set me back about $20 each.


I made it in for a total of $135 for all eight interconnects and they work great!


Gold plating is used since gold does not corrode you only have to worry if you have a very corrosive environment - not usually the case for home theaters.


Mike


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15190592
> 
> 
> I went and picked up those XLR's.
> 
> 
> 88.00 Bucks!
> 
> 
> I'm like so you really don't think there's any difference between these and the 175.00 Ultra Links. She says Ohdee we use these between two pieces of audio equipment that are worth a combined $250,000.00!
> 
> 
> I said point well taken....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One other question??? (sorry guys) Are gold plated necessary. My friend's boss said no. He said I wouldn't be able to tell the difference on a three foot run without humidity issues and whatnot. He said he has them but they're nearly three times the price of the ones I got. He highly recommended taking the cheap ones I did.



Good for you! You can even save a little more if you go by the DIY route. Amphenol and Neutrik are the best XLR terminals widely used by professionals. You can buy Belden microphone cable by the foot (at least in my country) and have the custom lenght you need. I used a better Belden variety to gain more RF rejection, it has an extra aluminum foil covering the conductors, it is said to have as much as 20dB RF rejection than rubber coated cables.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nikkos* /forum/post/15168026
> 
> 
> I would like to ask any AVM-50 owner for about a minute of your time. I have an AVM-50 that has QUITE LOUD chopping/popping when listening to any source AND adjusting the treble or the bass control. When the source is silent the controls are also silent. Anthem has been telling me for over a year that this is "normal" due to the extreme amount of processing being done. Can a few owners please perform the test and let me know if you also hear "significant" chopping/popping of the sound? It is approximately 30-50% of the level of the signal! And this is "normal".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hard to believe, but Anthem insists that they all do it. Only you guys will be 100% honest with me and let me hear your perception of this problem. I sure would appreciate some responses. Thanks!



Nikkos: Although I am having my own issues with my AVM50 since having ARC installed, I have not experienced the issue you are having. My issue is a stong hum that occurs when I switch to sources such as my blue-ray as shown in the attached link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FglzO4F303k 


I mentioned this issue to them several months ago and was told they were busy working on the new V2 models. I sent them the above link a couple of weeks ago hoping it would help solve the issue but I've received no response from Anthem since sending it to them, so I think I have no choice, but to live with it.


Good luck with your issue, but I don't think it is normal, nor does it sound like something a $5000+ audio component should be doing.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Hey I just thought of something. 99% of the music I listen to is off CD's. I do however have a modest music collection on my computer that I stream to the PS3. The only time I really use that is when we entertain. People just love looking through your music and changing the song before the song they just picked is half over.


Will the processor in the D2 do anything to make MP3's sound better than crappy?


----------



## tngiloy

Hi again.

I got tired of waiting for the new ARC to be released on the main Anthem D2 site so I went to the test software page and downloaded and the new ARC software.

I was a little surprised that it was .13. I thought the latest I had heard about was 1.2.12, but I must have missed the .13 rollout.

Everything went fine. I downloaded OK, re-measured, re-calculated and re-uploaded. There were differences in my cross-overs from 1.2.5. Fronts and surrounds went from 45 to 60, rears from 110 to 85, and subs stayed at 120.

The upload seemed to go fine- got the 'upload verified OK'- but when I checked the settings in the D2 the sub x-overs were set at 60.

So I uploaded again and the same thing happened. I set the sub x-over to 120 in the D2 speaker configuration menu.

I'm not sure what's going on. It should upload to 120hz according to the ARC settings, but it was setting it at 60 in the D2 menu.

Has anyone else experinced this?

Was it OK to change the setting for the sub x-over in the D2 menu, or is that being overridden when Room Correction is on?

Tom


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15191789
> 
> 
> Hey I just thought of something. 99% of the music I listen to is off CD’s. I do however have a modest music collection on my computer that I stream to the PS3. The only time I really use that is when we entertain. People just love looking through your music and changing the song before the song they just picked is half over.
> 
> 
> Will the processor in the D2 do anything to make MP3’s sound better than crappy?



Ohdee:


Mind if I ask how you connect your pc to you PS3? USB?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15192473
> 
> 
> Ohdee:
> 
> 
> Mind if I ask how you connect your pc to you PS3? USB?



Stream over the network through WMP or similar.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15192498
> 
> 
> Stream over the network through WMP or similar.



How do I do that?


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15192730
> 
> 
> How do I do that?



I just have a Linksys wireless router set up. The PS3 found it as soon as I plugged it in. It works slick as can be for firmware updates.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15192498
> 
> 
> Stream over the network through WMP or similar.



Yes, I use Windows Media Player.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Sorry for posting so much. I'm excited I won't keep this up.










I just spent two hours reading this thread. Following some of the many provided links! OMG! To say I'm overwhelmed is an understatement! _I'm never going to be able to figure all this stuff out._ I'm seriously hoping it's not as complicated in the real world as it seems in print.


I'm still uber excited but I'm also getting nervous. What if I can't get past a black screen?


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I borrowed one from a dealer to try with my CIH setup. Read the thread, searched for answers, asked some questions. Not so hard to get it up and running with good results. Do not worry.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15193928
> 
> 
> Sorry for posting so much. I'm excited I won't keep this up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just spent two hours reading this thread. Following some of the many provided links! OMG! To say I'm overwhelmed is an understatement! _I'm never going to be able to figure all this stuff out._ I'm seriously hoping it's not as complicated in the real world as it seems in print.
> 
> 
> I'm still uber excited but I'm also getting nervous. What if I can't get past a black screen?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15192451
> 
> 
> Hi again.
> 
> I got tired of waiting for the new ARC to be released on the main Anthem D2 site so I went to the test software page and downloaded and the new ARC software.
> 
> I was a little surprised that it was .13. I thought the latest I had heard about was 1.2.12, but I must have missed the .13 rollout.
> 
> Everything went fine. I downloaded OK, re-measured, re-calculated and re-uploaded. There were differences in my cross-overs from 1.2.5. Fronts and surrounds went from 45 to 60, rears from 110 to 85, and subs stayed at 120.
> 
> The upload seemed to go fine- got the 'upload verified OK'- but when I checked the settings in the D2 the sub x-overs were set at 60.
> 
> So I uploaded again and the same thing happened. I set the sub x-over to 120 in the D2 speaker configuration menu.
> 
> I'm not sure what's going on. It should upload to 120hz according to the ARC settings, but it was setting it at 60 in the D2 menu.
> 
> Has anyone else experinced this?
> 
> Was it OK to change the setting for the sub x-over in the D2 menu, or is that being overridden when Room Correction is on?
> 
> Tom



Nope you should have left it the way ARC uploaded it. Change it back or redo the Upload.


The new ARC has two distinct settings: The "crossovers" that get uploaded into the Setup menu, which control bass steering, and the "cutoffs" which get applied to the room correction algorithm and determine how low it will go with aggressive correction -- kind of the other end of the Max EQ Frequency Target. What you are seeing in the Targets window of ARC V1.2.13 is the cutoffs, not the crossovers.


In ARC V1.2.5 the crossovers and the cutoffs were kept to the same values, but in the new "test" ARC (the latest version being V1.2.13) they are allowed to be separate. This gives ARC another tool to use to solve room and speaker problems. I have suggested to Nick that ARC *ALSO* display the crossovers and speaker levels it is going to Upload into the Setup menu -- even if the user isn't allowed to change them within ARC -- to avoid confusion like yours.


Keep in mind that this is still "test" software -- not yet ready for general release. Expect surprises like this.

--Bob


----------



## ibg5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15158583
> 
> 
> The "Auto" setting is almost always best for Color Space for both input and output. It uses SDTV when the resolution is 480i/576i, or 480p/576p. Otherwise it uses HDTV. So when playing SDTV content on an HDTV display at HDTV resolutions you will get SDTV color space on input and HDTV color space on output (the Anthem does the conversion) all automatically.
> 
> 
> In Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space, the recommended settings are Auto YCbCr (for when the current input video happens to be in YCbCr data format) and also Studio RGB (for when it is in RGB format). These are the factory default settings. Remember that these settings are remembered separately for each input.
> 
> 
> For Setup > Video Output > Color Space, the recommended setting is Auto.
> 
> *There is no point in changing these settings unless you are trying to fix some problem.*
> 
> [Technical Note: SDTV and HDTV "color space" refer to the math used when converting between YCbCr and RGB data formats. Broadcast and on-disc video is in YCbCr, but the physical display needs RGB data before it can light up the pixels. SD and HD video use slightly different math. If you get this wrong the error will be most noticeable in greens -- greens will be 15% hot or dull depending on which way you have made the error.]
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> When FrameLock is set to Auto, a new HDMI "handshake" happens every time the input frame rate changes, just as also happens every time the input resolution happens. The "handshake" sets up the HDMI connection for the new input format.
> 
> 
> The complaint about HDCP means that the HDCP "copy protection" protocol is not happy. Often this just means you have to use better quality HDMI cables for input and output, but sometimes it means you are trying to send something to your TV that it is not willing to handle. The Pioneer displays have some settings which disable their /24 input for example. I don't know which settings these are, but they have been discussed numerous times in the Blu-Ray Players forum and perhaps someone else here will know the answer. It may be you have one of those settings turned on in your Pioneer so that it is not able to accept the new frame rate that FrameLock is trying to send it.
> 
> --Bob



If to follow your recommendations Setup> Video Output> Color Space, the recommended setting is Auto the colour space is switched in HDTV. Thus red colour becomes claret and practically its shades vanish. Besides, persons of people on the screen have a lilac shade. In SDTV the colour range is wider, colours become natural. Remember, how the cut water-melon looks? In HDTV it claret, and in SDTV - it scarlet.

I will not understand (explain) - if original colour space of initial signal SDTV WHAT FOR it to transform in HDTV? In what sense?

-------------------------------

Earlier at me was TV Pioneer PDP506XDE. D2 had a firmware 1.31. Such problems with FrameLock it was not observed. Moreover, my the first D2 had internal defect and I have been compelled to address to my dealer for replacement. In that D2 too there was no problem with FrameLock. After I have changed a firmware on 1.33 at me problems have begun. Updated a firmware repeatedly, but the problem remained. Then at me has appeared TV Pioneer PRP-LX6090H. The problem has remained. What it is possible to make?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15194239
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that this is still "test" software -- not yet ready for general release. Expect surprises like this.
> 
> --Bob



Good to know. I must have missed the discusion about 'cutoffs' and 'cross-overs'. It concerned me enough that I went back to 1.2.5.

I think I'll wait for the official version.

Any word when the new ARC will be official?


----------



## AbMagFab

Periodic check - any news on the availability of the D2v2?


----------



## slots1

I just got the Marantz 11S2 projector. Amazing, but the fellow who sold it to me said to not use the processor in the D2. He did the calabration all on the projector. Anyone have the same projector or the one before it, the 11S1.

Using gamma 2.2 and iris 1. Very bright, great blacks and sharpness.

Gerry


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15187841
> 
> 
> WOW!
> 
> 
> I have a friend that works in a Pro Audio shop. (concert stuff) They supply all kinds of equipment. I called her and asked how much for 5 Balanced XLR's F/M. She said at 3 feet, 15.00 each. I told her I was quoted 525.00 and she raiser her voice and said WHAT! She's going to talk to her boss and make sure the cables she's talking about will work (she said they use balanced XLR's for microphones) and then she'll get back to me.
> 
> 
> Pardon the expression but I'll be pissed off if I can get the same cables they're going to charge me 550.00 for 75.00 bucks!



FOR ANY Cables or Connectors you need - LOOK AT THE TOP of

this page and click on * MonoPrice *.


AGAIN - your DEALER is just trying to overcharge you for accessories

you don't need to pay outrageous prices for.


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/15195084
> 
> 
> I just got the Marantz 11S2 projector. Amazing, but the fellow who sold it to me said to not use the processor in the D2. He did the calabration all on the projector. Anyone have the same projector or the one before it, the 11S1.
> 
> Using gamma 2.2 and iris 1. Very bright, great blacks and sharpness.
> 
> Gerry



check your pm


----------



## budeone

I had to redo my avm-50 settings.. I ran the mic program and I dont think its anywhere it was before I had to my settings again.


Everything says zero (0) db.. is that correct?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/15196386
> 
> 
> I had to redo my avm-50 settings.. I ran the mic program and I dont think its anywhere it was before I had to my settings again.
> 
> 
> Everything says zero (0) db.. is that correct?



No, it's not likely that ARC would Upload 0dB volume trims for all the speakers. Are you sure you did the Upload and not just the Measurement and Calculation? Was anything else messed up in your Setup settings after you did the ARC Upload? For example did it look like ALL your Setup settings had unexpectedly reverted to Factory Defaults?


Also remember that once your ARC stuff has been Uploaded properly (i.e., you check and things look reasonable now in the Setup menu), you should Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture those changes, so that you don't accidentally undo them later by Reloading Saved User or Installer Settings.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/15195084
> 
> 
> I just got the Marantz 11S2 projector. Amazing, but the fellow who sold it to me said to not use the processor in the D2. He did the calabration all on the projector. Anyone have the same projector or the one before it, the 11S1.
> 
> Using gamma 2.2 and iris 1. Very bright, great blacks and sharpness.
> 
> Gerry



It is ALMOST ALWAYS better to do video calibration adjustments in the display or projector rather than in a video processor like the D2. You want to adjust the display -- using the controls inside the display -- to best reproduce the test patterns built into the D2 (Video Source Adjust > Patterns). For example, leave Video Source Adjust > Output > Gamma Corrrection OFF in the D2 and see if you can get perfect Gamma just using the display's own controls.


Of course you still need to set the D2's Video Output resolution, data format, and color space correctly.


If you can't get perfection using the controls inside your display (while viewing the D2's internally generated test charts), then get as close as you can with the display's controls and further refine the results by NOW using the Anthem's Gamma Correction.


While doing all this, the Video Source Adjust > Picture controls should be left at Factory Defaults.


Once you have the display best set up to reproduce the test patterns built into the Anthem, THEN you use the Video Source Adjust > Picture controls to refine the INPUT side of the video as necessary for differences between each source device. Only small adjustments should be necessary.


See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread for additional details.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15194931
> 
> 
> Good to know. I must have missed the discusion about 'cutoffs' and 'cross-overs'. It concerned me enough that I went back to 1.2.5.
> 
> I think I'll wait for the official version.
> 
> Any word when the new ARC will be official?



I don't believe it is officially in "Beta test" yet, so it will likely be a few more weeks even if they don't run into any problems.


Understand that what they are doing is primarily targeted at folks who have extreme speaker setups -- speaker setups that are difficult for ARC V1.2.5 to handle -- so they need to test against enough such setups. The result will be good for all of us, but it will just take longer to test.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ibg5* /forum/post/15194369
> 
> 
> If to follow your recommendations Setup> Video Output> Color Space, the recommended setting is Auto the colour space is switched in HDTV. Thus red colour becomes claret and practically its shades vanish. Besides, persons of people on the screen have a lilac shade. In SDTV the colour range is wider, colours become natural. Remember, how the cut water-melon looks? In HDTV it claret, and in SDTV - it scarlet.
> 
> I will not understand (explain) - if original colour space of initial signal SDTV WHAT FOR it to transform in HDTV? In what sense?
> 
> -------------------------------
> 
> Earlier at me was TV Pioneer PDP506XDE. D2 had a firmware 1.31. Such problems with FrameLock it was not observed. Moreover, my the first D2 had internal defect and I have been compelled to address to my dealer for replacement. In that D2 too there was no problem with FrameLock. After I have changed a firmware on 1.33 at me problems have begun. Updated a firmware repeatedly, but the problem remained. Then at me has appeared TV Pioneer PRP-LX6090H. The problem has remained. What it is possible to make?



The Color Space setting for each of the D2's inputs is used to adjust the D2 to match what a YCbCr source device is sending to the D2.


The Color Space setting for the D2's output is used to adjust the D2's YCbCr output to match what your display is expecting.


These are two completely separate and independent settings in the D2. There is no requirement that they both be set the same way.


The "standard" color space for YCbCr video at 480i/576i or 480p/576p resolution is SDTV. The "standard" color space for YCbCr video at all higher resolutions is HDTV. The "Auto" Video Source Adjust > Input Color Space setting simply selects SDTV or HDTV color space automatically for that D2 input according to the resolution of the video currently coming in to the D2 on that input. For example, a cable TV box set to send YCbCr video to the D2 at 480i when viewing SD channels and at 1080i when viewing HD channels *SHOULD BE* sending SDTV Color Space for those SD channels and HD Color Space for those HD channels, and the Auto input setting in the D2 will automatically switch what the D2 expects to receive from that box according to the current video input resolution. The explicit SDTV or HDTV settings force the D2 to expect the one chosen regardless of input video resolution.


The "Auto" Video Output > Color Space setting sets the D2 to use SDTV or HDTV Color Space for output to your display according to the video output resolution you have chosen for the D2. The explicit SDTV or HDTV settings force the D2 to use the one chosen regardless of the D2's current video output resolution.


So "Auto" for each input and "Auto" for the output is almost always the correct choice.


It should only be necessary for you to explicitly specify SDTV or HDTV Color Space in Video Source Adjust for a given input if that input source device has a bug and is incorrectly sending out the wrong Color Space -- i.e., the Color Space it is sending out to the D2 is not the correct "standard" Color Space matching the video resolution it is sending to the D2. Most commonly this happens because you have incorrectly made a setting change inside that source device which forces it to send out the wrong Color Space instead of letting it decide which Color Space to use automatically based on the source device's video output resolution. But there ARE some source devices that have bugs which cause them to output the wrong Color Space and that's why the D2 provides explicit input controls so you can set the D2 to expect what the device is actually sending regardless of the video input resolution.


For example, an "upscaling" standard DVD player should be converting the SDTV Color Space YCbCr 480i/576i video coming off the DVD disc to HDTV Color Space for output whenever the player is set to send 720p or higher to the D2. Most upscaling standard DVD players do this simple conversion correctly, but some of the first upscaling players incorrectly left their high resolution video output in SDTV color space, and for such a player you would have to force the D2 to expect the "incorrect" SDTV Color Space from that player to get them properly matched up.


And, quite rarely, an HDTV broadcast channel which is showing SDTV content upscaled to high resolution will sometimes fail to convert the content to HDTV color space for broadcast. For example, the US HDTV channel that rebroadcast the SD local coverage of the Tour d' France screwed this up in 2007. You could fix this by temporarily telling the D2 to expect SDTV color space from the cable TV box while viewing that screwed up HD broadcast.


Similarly, it should only be necessary for you to explicitly specify SDTV or HDTV Color Space for the D2's video output if your display has a bug causing it to EXPECT the wrong Color Space for the video resolution you have told the D2 to output. Most commonly this happens because you have incorrectly made a setting change inside the display forcing it to expect a specific Color Space rather than letting it decide automatically which Color Space to expect based in the video resolution being sent to it by the D2. But there ARE some displays which get their Color Space choice wrong and thus the D2 offers explicit Output Color Space controls so you can set the D2 to output what your display wants regardless of the D2's video output resolution.


--------------------------------------------------


All of the above applies on input only when the source device is sending YCbCr to the D2. RGB video input does not have a "Color Space" choice like this regardless of video resolution.


All of the above applies on output only when the D2 is sending YCbCr to the display. RGB video output does not have a "Color Space" choice like this regardless of the D2's video output resolution.


That is, "Color Space" is a characteristic of YCbCr video only.


--------------------------------------------------


Getting the Color Space wrong for YCbCr input or output primarily shows up in the GREENS. If you use a "color decoder" test chart (as found for example on the Avia calibration DVD) to quantify this error, Greens will measure either 15% high or low (once you have correctly adjusted colors so that Blues are perfect) depending which way you have made the error. Reds are also affected, but to a much lesser degree.


If you are seeing video that is tinted "shocking pink" -- significant and obviously wrong reddish color to everything -- then Color Space is not the culprit. Instead, you are sending YCbCr video when the receiving device is expecting RGB video.


If you send RGB video when the receiving device is expecting YCbCr video then you get video which looks "ghastly green".


-----------------------------------------------


Checking your Color Space settings should be done by viewing green and white test chart bars through the green gelatin color filter that comes with a calibration DVD (you will also have red and blue gel filters). First get color and tint perfect for Blue (using the blue gel filter), then view pure white and pure green of the same brightness through the green gel filter. The amount of green included in the white bar will be a close match to the amount of green in the green bar when the Color Space is correct. It will be obviously off if the Color Space is wrong. Switch between the two Color Space settings and the difference will be obvious.


Setup the OUTPUT side of the D2 first, and then set up the INPUT side of the D2 for each source.


First use the test charts found in Video Source Adjust > Patterns to make sure the *OUTPUT* side of the D2 is set up correctly. I.e., that the settings in your display and in the D2 are properly matched for the correct Color Space. If you are using RGB to the display there will be no difference since RGB doesn't have "color space". If you are using YCbCr to the display, and if the D2 is sending high resolution video to your HDTV display (the normal sort of setup), then both the Auto and HDTV Video Output Color Space settings will send HDTV Color Space and you just need to find the settings adjustment in your display to tell it to expect that.


Only AFTER you have the *OUTPUT* side of the D2, and the display's input settings, set up correctly, THEN check the D2's INPUT settings for each source device (and the output settings inside each source device) to make sure they are matched as well.


For a DVD or Blu-Ray player this can be done using a calibration DVD test chart. Once you have your DVD or Blu-Ray player set up correctly and everything looks good (i.e., you have finished the rest of your video calibration setup for the display and this player), you can use the video from the player as your quality standard. I.e., see how colors look from the player and confirm that colors look the same watching similar content from your cable TV box. If you see an error in the cable TV box primarily in the greens (dull greens or "neon" bright greens) then double check the Color Space input settings you are using with the cable TV box.


------------------------------------------


Please understand that getting the Color Space right for YCbCr video going between any two given devices is NOT A MATTER OF PERSONAL PREFERENCE. It is either right or it is wrong.


If some device has a Color Space bug, you may have to force an explicit setting in the other device to keep them matched up -- to make the connection "right" between them -- but deliberately choosing the "wrong" matching of Color Space between two devices to get a more pleasing image is always -- *ALWAYS* -- the wrong thing to do.


If the "correct" Color Space setting between any two devices doesn't produce a pleasing image then there are some *OTHER* video settings which are not yet properly set. It is NEVER a good idea to use mismatched Color Space between two devices (as shown by how greens measure after blues are properly set) to try to improve how the image looks to you.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

It says it has uploaded for me and says it went corrcet. I will have to try again next week.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drhankz told Ohdee:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15195107
> 
> 
> FOR ANY Cables or Connectors you need - LOOK AT THE TOP of
> 
> this page and click on * MonoPrice *.



Ohdee,

Also check out the cables from Blue Jeans Cable. Both MonoPrice and Blue Jeans Cable are AVS Forum Sponsors, and both are highly regarded here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/15197651
> 
> 
> It says it has uploaded for me and says it went corrcet. I will have to try again next week.



What sort of speaker volume trims have you been getting from ARC prior to this? Did the crossover values get loaded into the Setup menu correctly?


It would probably be a good idea to open your saved ARC results file in Advance mode and redo just the Upload to see what you get a second time.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Dealer just called me, processor has been ordered but it wont be in until Monday... ARG!







It's like I'm 8 and I'm waiting for Christmas morning!


----------



## D2v2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15194951
> 
> 
> Periodic check - any news on the availability of the D2v2?



Yes? I'm here in Spirit!


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15184212
> 
> 
> The D2 is selling for 4800. The



Ohdee.....4800 CAD or USD?? That seems like a low low number (compared to what I'm being quoted anyway!)


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15198351
> 
> 
> Ohdee.....4800 CAD or USD?? That seems like a low low number (compared to what I'm being quoted anyway!)



I paid 4800.00 cdn plus 10% tax (5% provincial 5% federal) Then my dealer applied 100% of the 1300.00 I paid for my 3808ci last February against the after tax total. I actually paid out of pocket 3980.00 cdn tax in!


Are you in Canada? If you want I'll PM you my dealers name.


I hope this isn't considered talking prices and if so Mod please delete. As far as I know $4800.00 *is the current MSRP*. The MSRP (in Canada) for the D2V2 is 7000.00. The upgrade cost to the new D2V2 is 2200.00 or the exact same as 7000.00.


----------



## spiderv6

OK, so now im totally confused as I just talked to a local dealer who said the new price is $5999 USD. you are saying it is around $3900 USD ($4800 CAD)


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15198963
> 
> 
> OK, so now im totally confused as I just talked to a local dealer who said the new price is $5999 USD. you are saying it is around $3900 USD ($4800 CAD)



Don't know what to say? I know the processor (both D2 and D2V2) go for about 500.00 less in Canada than they do in the States. Could it just be a Canadian thing seeing as they're made in Canada? I guess I should be even more excited now!


Again, I hope I'm not breaking board rules and please delete if I am.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15198963
> 
> 
> OK, so now im totally confused as I just talked to a local dealer who said the new price is $5999 USD. you are saying it is around $3900 USD ($4800 CAD)



5999 USD doesn't add up. The upgrade to the D2V2 will be around 2200 (maybe more). Why would you pay 6000 and 2200 later (plus have to ship the unit out for weeks) for what you can get for 7500 in a month or so? Strictly talking MSRP. We all know there's some wiggle room on the 7500 MSRP.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15199212
> 
> 
> 5999 USD doesn't add up. The upgrade to the D2V2 will be around 2200 (maybe more). Why would you pay 6000 and 2200 later (plus have to ship the unit out for weeks) for what you can get for 7500 in a month or so? Strictly talking MSRP. We all know there's some wiggle room on the 7500 MSRP.



Given the current exchange rate is about $1 CAD = $0.8 US, I think I need to take a trip to Canada!


$4800 CAD = $3840 US


$7499 CAD = $5999 US


OhDee - You got a smokin! deal at $4800 CAD! If $4800 CAD is the MSRP north of the border and $5999 US is MSRP south of the border that would really seem odd given the exchange rate. That would mean the CAD MSRP is 64% of the US MSRP.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15199489
> 
> 
> Given the current exchange rate is about $1 CAD = $0.8 US, I think I need to take a trip to Canada!
> 
> 
> $4800 CAD = $3840 US
> 
> 
> $7499 CAD = $5999 US
> 
> 
> OhDee - You got a smokin! deal at $4800 CAD! If $4800 CAD is the MSRP north of the border and $5999 US is MSRP south of the border that would really seem odd given the exchange rate. That would mean the CAD MSRP is 64% of the US MSRP.



I can't say for sure what the D2 MSRP is. You can't see it anywhere on their site. All it says is contact your dealer for the sale price. My dealer told me (even though he tries to sell me a bunch of expensive cables he treats me right because I spend a lot at his store) Anthem is discounting the D2 by the same amount the upgrade to D2V2 will cost because sales of the D2 all but stopped. People know the D2V2 will be out in a month at a price point that's very close to that of the current D2. Nobody was buying new D2's. Rather then getting stuck with a bunch of D2's and AVM 50's they decided to discount the current model by the same amount of the upgrade so they'd sell.


I think trying to figure out the currency is just confusing the matter. You guys pay X for a 58 inch Panasonic Plasma and we pay XY. XY doesn't equal the difference in currency exchange. There are other factors like shipping costs that are taken into account. Canada is the great white north and there's vast distances that needs to be covered.


Bottom line is Anthem was charging Canadians about 7000.00 for a D2 and Americans about 7500.00. If the cost to upgrade to a D2 is 2200.00 in both Canada and the US you'd think spiderv6 should be getting a quote at around 5300.00. Is it more likely his dealer trying to pick up 700.00 on him or mine losing 700.00 on me?


I may be wrong as I'm only passing on what I was told. That being the discounted amount is the same as the upgrade amount to entice people to buy D2's. Is it possible the upgrade will be 2200.00 in Canada and 1500.00 in the US? Could this explain the 700.00 difference?


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15199809
> 
> 
> I can't say for sure what the D2 MSRP is. You can't see it anywhere on their site.



$7499 according to the comparison PDF on the Anthem site. Which would likely put the sale price in the $5299-5499 range.



> Quote:
> I may be wrong as I'm only passing on what I was told. That being the discounted amount is the same as the upgrade amount to entice people to buy D2's. Is it possible the upgrade will be 2200.00 in Canada and 1500.00 in the US? Could this explain the 700.00 difference?



Well the D1->D2 upgrade is $2300 CDN, and $2000 USD. It's looking like the V2 upgrade will be right around that.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/15199870
> 
> 
> $7499 according to the comparison PDF on the Anthem site. Which would likely put the sale price in the $5299-5499 range.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well the D1->D2 upgrade is $2300 CDN, and $2000 USD. It's looking like the V2 upgrade will be right around that.



Ok I found this blurb and then that's it. No more price talk from me as this is exactly the type of thing the powers at be here want to avoid.



> Quote:
> Estimated U.S. FMV for the Anthem Statement D2 v.2 is $*7999*.


 http://www.quebecaudio.com/articles/actualite/upgrades-to-anthem's-statement-d2/ 


So based on 7999 and 2000 to do the upgrade in the US the 5999 quote spiderv6 got would be bang on. Why it's cheaper in Canada I do not know? I thought it was a right across North America thing or I would have never thrown the number out there.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15200061
> 
> 
> Ok I found this blurb and then that's it. No more price talk from me as this is exactly the type of thing the powers at be here want to avoid.



Oh, don't know what the V2 will cost, that's the V1.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15194951
> 
> 
> Periodic check - any news on the availability of the D2v2?



The last post with actual dates was from eXcessive:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=16870 


saying that the AVM50v2 was pushed back to Dec/January (heard at a dealer show).


I wouldn't expect it to actually ship until January. And since I'll be wanting an upgrade, I figure it'll be March by the time that's readily available.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15192900
> 
> 
> I just have a Linksys wireless router set up. The PS3 found it as soon as I plugged it in. It works slick as can be for firmware updates.



Ohdee:


I have a wireless Linksys router which my PS3 and laptop both use. I just don't know how to stream music from my laptop to the PS3.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15201262
> 
> 
> Ohdee:
> 
> 
> I have a wireless Linksys router which my PS3 and laptop both use. I just don't know how to stream music from my laptop to the PS3.



I'm running a regular desktop with Windows XP. I don't think a laptop or windows Vista should work any different though.


-Turn on your PS3


-Open Windows Media Player


-Click on the Library tab


-Click on Media Sharing


-You should then see your PS3 (the PS3 will show up as unknown device because it's a PS3 and not a *MICROSOFT* XBox 360)


-Click on the PS3


-Click on Allow


-Click Ok



I just tried finding my 360 or PS3 using my Vista laptop. It wouldn't let me due to my security settings. I won't change it because I send my Music and Photo's off my desktop. It'll work for sure but you may have to adjust your secutity settings a little.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15201407
> 
> 
> I'm running a regular desktop with Windows XP. I don't think a laptop or windows Vista should work any different though.
> 
> 
> -Turn on your PS3
> 
> 
> -Open Windows Media Player
> 
> 
> -Click on the Library tab
> 
> 
> -Click on Media Sharing
> 
> 
> -You should then see your PS3 (the PS3 will show up as unknown device because it's a PS3 and not a *MICROSOFT* XBox 360)
> 
> 
> -Click on the PS3
> 
> 
> -Click on Allow
> 
> 
> -Click Ok
> 
> 
> 
> I just tried finding my 360 or PS3 using my Vista laptop. It wouldn't let me due to my security settings. I won't change it because I send my Music and Photo's off my desktop. It'll work for sure but you may have to adjust your secutity settings a little.



I also use Vista on my laptop, but I can't figure out how to do it.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15201491
> 
> 
> I also use Vista on my laptop, but I can't figure out how to do it.



Hummmm I'm not sure and I don't really want to play with it as it's now working the way I want it to. Are you getting a prompt saying something about your security settings not allowing you to do it? Someone here will be able to help you out for sure. Try posting in the PS3 thread.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15199809
> 
> 
> Is it possible the upgrade will be 2200.00 in Canada and 1500.00 in the US? Could this explain the 700.00 difference?



It's possible. We've been getting hints the upgrade price in the US will be in the range $1500 to $2000.


But I wouldn't expect the Canadian pricing to be more (other than for exchange rate differences) unless they have to bundle in VAT at the manufacturer's end or some such for sales within Canada.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've just done a new set of Measurements using the "test" ARC V1.2.13 -- the first new set of Measurements I've done since ARC V1.2.5 become "official". The charts are below.


I actually ended up doing two sets of Measurements because the first set produced some unusual Calculation results where the default Max EQ Frequency Target of 5KHz actually produced WORSE results for low mid-range and high bass frequencies than when I boosted it to 15KHz. 20KHz made the results worse again, but in a different way. I've sent some files off to Nick to see if he can make any sense out of this.


In any event, the second set of Measurements (identical setup and mic position except the mic tip was positioned about 1 inch higher) produced the 20KHz results shown in the charts below which look quite good. I'm doing listening tests now using these 20KHz results.


The "cutoffs" shown in the Targets chart match the Uploaded "crossover" values except that they subwoofer crossover for Movie and Music were both Uploaded as 70Hz.


These values are lower than what ARC V1.2.5 chose: 80Hz for the L/R Fronts, 90Hz for the Center, 90Hz for the L/R Surrounds, and 120Hz for the subwoofer.


The speaker volume trims that ARC Uploaded are also a bit puzzling.


The Noise Level (+3dB) that I've been using produced a basic level of 77dB on my V1.2.5 charts, and still does for V1.2.13. ARC V1.2.5 Uploaded subwoofer trims of 0dB for Movie and 0.5dB for Music when Measured this way.


V1.2.13 on the other hand Uploads -3.5dB for both of them!


The other volume trims also differ in a surprising way. The trims are a little further from 0dB. I.e., the positive trims from V1.2.5 are a little more positive and the negative trims from V1.2.5 are a little more negative. All very puzzling but it seems to work, and the SPL measurements seem reasonable.


ARC V1.2.13 also decided that the Room Gain to be preserved in my room was about 0.8dB less than when I did the V1.2.5 Measurements. Also puzzling.


I'm going to suggest to Nick that they'd best include a note warning older ARC users about differences like this or they are going to get a ton of emails and phone calls when folks do new Measurements and start wondering whether something is wrong.


Early listening tests with this setup are encouraging. The bass that was slightly too hot in the "test" V1.2.10 ARC is now back where it should be, and it doesn't appear that they have overcompensated -- but that takes more listening to confirm.


The older, higher crossovers for my main speakers made sense to me as I deliberately chose limited range speakers that would require an excellent subwoofer. The current, lower crossovers for the mains seem to be working although I'm a bit nervous about the Center being lowered from 90Hz to 60Hz as it puts its Measured dip from 45Hz to 110Hz more into play with that speaker -- and ARC can't quite correct for all of that, at least going by the charts.


But so far the actual RESULTS sound fine, so I'm not too worried yet.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15202496
> 
> 
> I've just done a new set of Measurements using the "test" ARC V1.2.13 -- the first new set of Measurements I've done since ARC V1.2.5 become "official". The charts are below.
> 
> 
> I actually ended up doing two sets of Measurements because the first set produced some unusual Calculation results where the default Max EQ Frequency Target of 5KHz actually produced WORSE results for low mid-range and high bass frequencies than when I boosted it to 15KHz. 20KHz made the results worse again, but in a different way. I've sent some files off to Nick to see if he can make any sense out of this.
> 
> 
> In any event, the second set of Measurements (identical setup and mic position except the mic tip was positioned about 1 inch higher) produced the 20KHz results shown in the charts below which look quite good. I'm doing listening tests now using these 20KHz results.
> 
> 
> The "cutoffs" shown in the Targets chart match the Uploaded "crossover" values except that they subwoofer crossover for Movie and Music were both Uploaded as 70Hz.
> 
> 
> These values are lower than what ARC V1.2.5 chose: 80Hz for the L/R Fronts, 90Hz for the Center, 90Hz for the L/R Surrounds, and 120Hz for the subwoofer.
> 
> 
> The speaker volume trims that ARC Uploaded are also a bit puzzling.
> 
> 
> The Noise Level (+3dB) that I've been using produced a basic level of 77dB on my V1.2.5 charts, and still does for V1.2.13. ARC V1.2.5 Uploaded subwoofer trims of 0dB for Movie and 0.5dB for Music when Measured this way.
> 
> 
> V1.2.13 on the other hand Uploads -3.5dB for both of them!
> 
> 
> The other volume trims also differ in a surprising way. The trims are a little further from 0dB. I.e., the positive trims from V1.2.5 are a little more positive and the negative trims from V1.2.5 are a little more negative. All very puzzling but it seems to work, and the SPL measurements seem reasonable.
> 
> 
> ARC V1.2.13 also decided that the Room Gain to be preserved in my room was about 0.8dB less than when I did the V1.2.5 Measurements. Also puzzling.
> 
> 
> I'm going to suggest to Nick that they'd best include a note warning older ARC users about differences like this or they are going to get a ton of emails and phone calls when folks do new Measurements and start wondering whether something is wrong.
> 
> 
> Early listening tests with this setup are encouraging. The bass that was slightly too hot in the "test" V1.2.10 ARC is now back where it should be, and it doesn't appear that they have overcompensated -- but that takes more listening to confirm.
> 
> 
> The older, higher crossovers for my main speakers made sense to me as I deliberately chose limited range speakers that would require an excellent subwoofer. The current, lower crossovers for the mains seem to be working although I'm a bit nervous about the Center being lowered from 90Hz to 60Hz as it puts its Measured dip from 45Hz to 110Hz more into play with that speaker -- and ARC can't quite correct for all of that, at least going by the charts.
> 
> 
> But so far the actual RESULTS sound fine, so I'm not too worried yet.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - do you need to remeasure with 1.2.13? My last measurement was with 1.2.12.


David


----------



## ravichopra

I just got the ARC upgrade for my AVM50, and while I can't say it's the BEST $800 I've ever spent, it sure as heck isn't the worst. And while I don't have any immediate need for the V2 upgrade that is coming soon (though the new video processor is tempting...), I'm incredibly comforted at the fact that it's available at all!


In fact, I'm tempted to call Anthem my single favorite producer of consumer electronics, ever. I'm consistently frustrated by the fact that I've got to plunk down a ton of additional money for what amounts to a new box every time I want to upgrade something. My Mac desktop is in exactly the same case that the subsequent several generations have been packaged in. If they'd offered an upgrade path, I'd have upgraded a couple times at least in the intervening years.


Anyhow, the consistent upgrade path, both in firmware and hardware have basically won me over as a customer for life. Someday I will buy the upgrade, though I may wait for V3 if my needs don't expand in the short term.


Either way, I was thinking about the sorts of things that might be a nice addition. The first thing that came to mind ties to the Popcorn Hour NMT I just added to my system to allow me to stream video in any of a number of formats and resolutions to my home theater. The thing works remarkably well and actually puts out pretty reasonable upscaling and deinterlacing results. The company even offers it as an upgrade board for a home theater PC.


As the NMT chipset is avaialble in a variety of boxes (not just from Popcorn Hour), I imagine it wouldn't be catostrophically difficult to integrate the same thing into the D2/AVM50, but feeding the video stream to the higher-end processor for scaling and clean-up. The only required additional plug on the back of the box would be an ethernet jack (throw in eSTAT and USB if you want to be able to attach a drive directly).


Given how much not just movies, but home video are going to pure digital form, this would seem to be in alignment with the future of video (for better or for worse).


Personally, I'd pay a significant premium to get this capability built in, allowing me to eliminate a box from my system and ensuring superior video processing.


What do you all think?

-R


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15204436
> 
> 
> Bob - do you need to remeasure with 1.2.13? My last measurement was with 1.2.12.
> 
> 
> David



I'm not sure. The release notes for 1.2.12 said you had to re-measure to get the full benefit of the bass algorithm changes. However the release notes for 1.2.13 go back to saying that if you have measured with any 1.2.x release then you just need to re-Calculate and re-Upload.


Changes in V1.2.13 compared to the last "official" release, V1.2.5:



> Quote:
> Changes:
> 
> 
> v1.2.12:
> 
> 
> 1. Change to how sub crossover frequency is selected to address cases where the sub is a lot closer to the listener than the center channel, causing dialog to be heard from the sub if its crossover was set high enough.
> 
> 
> 2. More settings available for configurations not using a subwoofer. Note that while the front channels will be set to Large in the setup menu, ARC will still create a low frequency contour on the room correction target based on response at those frequencies. This cutoff frequency, displayed in the Targets panel, is separate from the bass manager's crossover.
> 
> 
> 3. The Targets panel also has options for setting the processor's bass manager to run channels at full range. These are best left unchecked, especially for surround channels since surround speakers are usually smaller.
> 
> 
> 4. Selecting Rears for measurement is not allowed if Surrounds are unselected. (In a 5.1 system use Surround channels, not Rears.)
> 
> 
> 5. Improved measurement at very low frequencies. Since this relates to frequencies below the lowest note on a bass guitar, it may not make a difference depending on existing in-room response.
> 
> 
> 6. Improved measurement at very high frequencies.
> 
> 
> If you have a file measured with a v1.2 ARC release, no remeasurement is necessary to obtain the above. To convert the file format just open the file with the latest version of ARC, calculate, and upload.



Note that it says V1.2.12 in those release notes, but they actually come with the V1.2.13 release and are worded DIFFERENTLY from the ones that came with the V1.2.12 release.


I suspect Nick (who writes these notes) may have learned from the engineers between the V1.2.12 and V1.2.13 releases that a re-Measurement was not necessary. One thing I was going to do today was do a re-Calculation based on my prior set of V1.2.5 Measurements to see what I got compared to the V1.2.13 Measurements I did last night.


I spent quite a few hours listening to the V1.2.13 Measurements (the second set of them -- Calculated at 20KHz) and they sound very good indeed. There is certainly plenty of deep LFE bass so the -3.5dB subwoofer volume trims appear to be working OK. The bass transition into the main speakers is as smooth as I remember it from V1.2.5 and the highs are very sweet. I can't say that the bass is better for me compared to V1.2.5 (although it IS better than the V1.2.10 results I got using my V1.2.5 Measurements), but the highs do appear cleaner. Now I didn't have any issues in my bass that might have given ARC trouble so the improvements there are not really for my setup. I.e., I wasn't really expecting to hear any improvement there. But I was expecting high mid-range and treble to improve and it appears to have done so.


I still need to do more listening. But so far no problems.


Now I never Uploaded or listened to the results from the first set of V1.2.13 Measurements -- the ones that produced the peculiar calculation results where a higher Max EQ Frequency Target IMPROVED the Calculated curve at lower frequencies instead of hurting them. It is quite possible that other folks may experience negative results from doing a V1.2.13 Measurement if this is really a bug. We've also seen some other reports here recently of chart results where one speaker out of the set doesn't seem to be getting the expected degree off correction done in its Calculated curve. But I don't believe any check was made to see if that varied with different Max EQ Frequency Targets. No word back yet from Nick on that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/15205833
> 
> 
> I just got the ARC upgrade for my AVM50, and while I can't say it's the BEST $800 I've ever spent, it sure as heck isn't the worst. And while I don't have any immediate need for the V2 upgrade that is coming soon (though the new video processor is tempting...), I'm incredibly comforted at the fact that it's available at all!
> 
> 
> In fact, I'm tempted to call Anthem my single favorite producer of consumer electronics, ever. I'm consistently frustrated by the fact that I've got to plunk down a ton of additional money for what amounts to a new box every time I want to upgrade something. My Mac desktop is in exactly the same case that the subsequent several generations have been packaged in. If they'd offered an upgrade path, I'd have upgraded a couple times at least in the intervening years.
> 
> 
> Anyhow, the consistent upgrade path, both in firmware and hardware have basically won me over as a customer for life. Someday I will buy the upgrade, though I may wait for V3 if my needs don't expand in the short term.
> 
> 
> Either way, I was thinking about the sorts of things that might be a nice addition. The first thing that came to mind ties to the Popcorn Hour NMT I just added to my system to allow me to stream video in any of a number of formats and resolutions to my home theater. The thing works remarkably well and actually puts out pretty reasonable upscaling and deinterlacing results. The company even offers it as an upgrade board for a home theater PC.
> 
> 
> As the NMT chipset is avaialble in a variety of boxes (not just from Popcorn Hour), I imagine it wouldn't be catostrophically difficult to integrate the same thing into the D2/AVM50, but feeding the video stream to the higher-end processor for scaling and clean-up. The only required additional plug on the back of the box would be an ethernet jack (throw in eSTAT and USB if you want to be able to attach a drive directly).
> 
> 
> Given how much not just movies, but home video are going to pure digital form, this would seem to be in alignment with the future of video (for better or for worse).
> 
> 
> Personally, I'd pay a significant premium to get this capability built in, allowing me to eliminate a box from my system and ensuring superior video processing.
> 
> 
> What do you all think?
> 
> -R



I think the next generation of Anthem box will likely need to include an ethernet port and/or built in wifi for a variety of reasons, but picking any given streaming content format to bundle in is still problematic.


By the way, I'll be surprised if we see a next generation box before 2010 -- perhaps the very end of 2010.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/15205833
> 
> 
> Anyhow, the consistent upgrade path, both in firmware and hardware have basically won me over as a customer for life. Someday I will buy the upgrade, though I may wait for V3 if my needs don't expand in the short term.
> 
> 
> Either way, I was thinking about the sorts of things that might be a nice addition. The first thing that came to mind ties to the Popcorn Hour NMT I just added to my system to allow me to stream video in any of a number of formats and resolutions to my home theater. The thing works remarkably well and actually puts out pretty reasonable upscaling and deinterlacing results. The company even offers it as an upgrade board for a home theater PC.
> 
> 
> As the NMT chipset is avaialble in a variety of boxes (not just from Popcorn Hour), I imagine it wouldn't be catostrophically difficult to integrate the same thing into the D2/AVM50, but feeding the video stream to the higher-end processor for scaling and clean-up. The only required additional plug on the back of the box would be an ethernet jack (throw in eSTAT and USB if you want to be able to attach a drive directly).
> 
> 
> Given how much not just movies, but home video are going to pure digital form, this would seem to be in alignment with the future of video (for better or for worse).
> 
> 
> Personally, I'd pay a significant premium to get this capability built in, allowing me to eliminate a box from my system and ensuring superior video processing.
> 
> 
> What do you all think?
> 
> -R



R


You will soon find the PopCorn Hour developers like Anthem are continuously updating the software and recently came out with two new hardware additions.

It is amazing how versatile the PCH is and the vast number of formats it can stream and handle. 1080 movies streamed are perfect. They recently added DTS and addtional HD audio codecs would be a plus.

I, for one prefer it being a separate stand-a-lone box. One big issue would be heat. If you take advantage of installing an internal hard drive to enable a host of additional features the unit develops a lot of heat to disipate.

Another is cost. Keep adding hardware and licensing and the cost of an Anthem processor would become too costly.

I regularly use the PCH and send 480i to the D2 so the D2 can process the stream. Though my limited testing doesn't show a great deal of difference.

One thing you should try is PlayOn in your desktop or laptop and stream SD Hulu or Netflix from your PCH.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just checked what ARC V1.2.13 would do with my older V1.2.5 Measurements.


If I just open them and Calculate the results are not much changed from what V1.2.5 itself produced. I think the high frequency Measured and Calculated values are better.


If I open them, do an Auto Detect in the Targets window and then Calculate, the "cutoffs" are lowered as V1.2.13 did for its own Measurements. In addition the detected Room Gain is also lowered although not quite as much as V1.2.13 did with its own Measurements (about -0.5dB vs. -0.8dB). I'm not going to Upload either of these now so I don't know what V1.2.13 produced for crossovers or for speaker volume trims for them.


The 5KHz and 20KHz Calculated results for the version including the Auto Detect both look reasonable.


For now I'm going to stick with the 20KHz results from my second set of new V1.2.13 Measurements.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15202496
> 
> 
> I've just done a new set of Measurements using the "test" ARC V1.2.13 -- the first new set of Measurements I've done since ARC V1.2.5 become "official". The charts are below.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Hey Bob two quick questions?


1) Do you think my new D2 will ship with the latest versions for both the D2 and ARC?


2) Does one have to update to the latest ARC version and recalibrate their speakers every few months?


It seems to me, once you run ARC and everything is set and everything sounds fantastic... couldn't you just leave well enough alone?


Do you just run the updates and whatnot after every update because it's your hobby and what you love to do or do you suggest everyone continually update firmware and tweak on a constant basis because real and noticeable improvements are constantly happening?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15207423
> 
> 
> Hey Bob two quick questions?
> 
> 
> 1) Do you think my new D2 will ship with the latest versions for both the D2 and ARC?
> 
> 
> 2) Does one have to update to the latest ARC version and recalibrate their speakers every few months?
> 
> 
> It seems to me, once you run ARC and everything is set and everything sounds fantastic... couldn't you just leave well enough alone?
> 
> 
> Do you just run the updates and whatnot after every update because it's your hobby and what you love to do or do you suggest everyone continually update firmware and tweak on a constant basis because real and noticeable improvements are constantly happening?



Your D2 will ship with the latest "official" software. At the moment that is V1.33 for the D2 firmware and V1.2.5 for ARC.


The "test" software is available through Anthem tech support if you have a problem they think it might fix or if you are helping them test new versions.


You don't have to redo your ARC stuff unless you want to, just as you don't have to go through checking and calibrating your video setup again unless you want to. Some ARC software releases can use Measurements you made with older ARC software, meaning it is pretty easy and quick to re-Calculate and re-Upload to get the full advantage.


But you will discover that it is more likely you will make changes in your viewing space that affect audio than changes that affect video. Re-pointing or repositioning your speakers (even by small amounts), adding new furniture, changing curtains, or changing your preferred seating positions are all things that would call for a new set of ARC Measurements (and Calculation and Upload) if you want the best possible audio. But once your video is setup right you are pretty much good to go unless you repaint the walls or change your mind as to the ambient room light level you prefer while watching stuff.


----------------------------------


As a new D2 purchaser, I suggest you use the ARC V1.2.5 that comes with it and don't confuse yourself with the "test" versions. Even when the newer ARC becomes "official" you may want to wait a bit before jumping into it until you read more posts here about how it is working out for folks, and until you have the time to install it and take new Measurements without feeling you have to rush because guests are about to arrive.


But take careful note of the way you configure your room for viewing when you really care about it (doors/curtains open/closed, where people sit, how speakers are positioned and pointed) and realize that this is the way you want things set up when you do your ARC Measurements, and if you change the way you have things set up then another set of ARC Measurements ought to be made to capture that.


Also, new speakers do change as they "break in", so even if nothing else has changed, plan on doing a new set of ARC Measurements after any new speakers have had a couple months normal use.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/15200113
> 
> 
> Oh, don't know what the V2 will cost, that's the V1.



Ok, so just to try and fill in the blanks on this one.


My dealer said;


D2 V1 is retailing at $5,999 but he'd do $5,200

D2 V2 will be $7,999 but he will be doing a special at launch of $6,800


His advice was to hold off and go for the V2 as it would work out cheaper.


What I'm struggling with is the difference between the US and Canadian prices being quoted here ; $4,800 Canadian = $3,800 USD. That's a HUGE chunk of change and if I could get that deal I'd jump on it today.......


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15206569
> 
> 
> I think the next generation of Anthem box will likely need to include an ethernet port and/or built in wifi for a variety of reasons, but picking any given streaming content format to bundle in is still problematic.
> 
> 
> By the way, I'll be surprised if we see a next generation box before 2010 -- perhaps the very end of 2010.
> 
> --Bob



Well, I'll probably end up upgrading to V2 eventually anyhow...


As for the NMT, it's basically just a chipset that can manage almost any file format streamed over any of a host of different standard file-sharing schemes. It's strengths are the generic interoperability, relatively low price point (compared to other media-players), and availability as a licenseable chipset. I would think it relatively easy, rather than problematic.


-Ravi


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/15208728
> 
> 
> Well, I'll probably end up upgrading to V2 eventually anyhow...
> 
> 
> As for the NMT, it's basically just a chipset that can manage almost any file format streamed over any of a host of different standard file-sharing schemes. It's strengths are the generic interoperability, relatively low price point (compared to other media-players), and availability as a licenseable chipset. I would think it relatively easy, rather than problematic.
> 
> 
> -Ravi



Interesting. I'm not familiar with it. It wouldn't hurt to send an email to Anthem tech support to make sure it is on their radar for future products.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15207879
> 
> 
> Ok, so just to try and fill in the blanks on this
> 
> What I'm struggling with is the difference between the US and Canadian prices being quoted here ; $4,800 Canadian = $3,800 USD. That's a HUGE chunk of change and if I could get that deal I'd jump on it today.......



Again I'm done talking prices as it's against board rules.


I just wanted to chime in and say I really don't think it's as simple as saying 4800cnd = 3800usd! My dealer is a 25 hour ride up the Trans Canada highway to knocking on Paradigm/Anthems door. I'm sure they get a Paradigm shipment in every week. To me it would make since that a product made in Canada would be cheaper when bought here than one bought in the States. How does Free Trade work? Does Anthem pay to get their products over the border?


I honestly don't know any of the above. It might be cheaper for them to ship to New York City than it is for them to ship to Winnipeg. I'm just playing Devils Advocate and saying I don't believe it's as simple as just converting CDN dollars into USD!


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/15208728
> 
> 
> As for the NMT, it's basically just a chipset that can manage almost any file format streamed over any of a host of different standard file-sharing schemes. It's strengths are the generic interoperability, relatively low price point (compared to other media-players), and availability as a licenseable chipset. I would think it relatively easy, rather than problematic.
> 
> 
> -Ravi



You're talking the Popcornhour box right? That's actually _an implimentation_ of the Sigma 8630 SOC. Frankly I wouldn't want something like that in my SSP. SSPs, especially the ones Anthem is selling today (with HDMI audio, scalers, 1080p video, etc) and double-especially the V2s, are something you can buy today, and they're good to go/current for 5 years easy, if not longer. And beyond that they're relatively maintenance free, rarely needing a software/firmware update.


Network media players (like the Popcorn Hour and a host of others) are the polar opposite, they're good for maybe a year before a better model based on a better chipset is introduced. They're handicapped by having to deal with dozens and dozens of evolving protocols and are often in need of almost constant software updates to keep current.


Make no mistake, I've got a couple players (SageTV HD extenders) but there's no way I'd want such a device integrated into my Anthem. I love both, but NMPs are far to volatile to be part of something like an Anthem that should be the solid foundation of an HT.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick sent an email saying that ARC engineers are looking at the files I sent in, but no answer yet as to what is going on.


He expects the next "test" version next week (or possibly this weekend).


He says it is normal for this new ARC to produce different crossovers/cutoffs than V1.2.5, but again they are looking at the files I sent in to see if the results make sense in my specific case.


I think we are still a ways away from this new ARC becoming "official".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ohdee,

Don't get too worried about talking pricing. This is a fairly esoteric product, and it is going through an important product change cycle. It is normal to discuss rumors on the new pricing, and it is certainly normal to clarify the new MSRPs in the different country markets as they become finalized. As a new purchaser you have recent information which is useful for the thread.


Mostly what the mods want to avoid is the "where to buy" stuff, the "how much discount you can get" stuff, and of course any sort of spam at all from folks actually trying to sell the product. We have a number of dealers posting in this thread who've actually been very good about doing the right thing here: Posting useful information from time to time on Anthem's pricing and policies without trying to spam for business.


Questions/Advice on where to buy and how much discount should be handled via PMs.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34

my latest arc measurements with the latest test arc.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15210014
> 
> 
> Ohdee,
> 
> Don't get too worried about talking pricing. This is a fairly esoteric product, and it is going through an important product change cycle.
> 
> 
> Questions/Advice on where to buy and how much discount should be handled via PMs.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the heads up Bob.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15210014
> 
> 
> It is normal to discuss rumors on the new pricing, and it is certainly normal to clarify the new MSRPs in the different country markets as they become finalized.



Agreed.



> Quote:
> Mostly what the mods want to avoid is the "where to buy" stuff, the "how much discount you can get" stuff, and of course any sort of spam at all from folks actually trying to sell the product. We have a number of dealers posting in this thread who've actually been very good about doing the right thing here: Posting useful information from time to time on Anthem's pricing and policies without trying to spam for business.



Unfortunately this is the way I have read the last several postings about pricing. There have been a couple of retail price quotes, I believe only MSRP discussion is allowed.


> Quote:
> Questions/Advice on where to buy and how much discount should be handled via PMs.
> 
> --Bob



Agreed 100% lets keep this great thread clean and abide by the rules.


----------



## obie_fl

I guess people are starting to do end of year want lists.










I would also much prefer most of the video codecs be left to a separate box. While a converter box like the Popcorn/Apple/Roku are kind of cool. I think I'd actually prefer a server/converter box that is DLNA compliant with ethernet output. That way all the weird video and (audio for that matter) codecs can be transcoded in the external box. This all assumes of course that the Anthem (lets call it the D3







) gets an DLNA compliant ethernet port with a set of basic "non-moving" video and audio codecs.


And Santa could I get more then eight channels? I really, really want to do stereo bass and discrete LFE.


And could I get a phono stage built in for my shiny red turntable you can leave out the silly iPod port if you are out of room.


And how about a new cool HD radio Tuner? ....I think I can live without a built-in Satellite receiver though.


Oh yea and World Peace.


P.S. I'll leave cookies.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/15210158
> 
> 
> my latest arc measurements with the latest test arc.



What are you using as your Max EQ Frequency Target?

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34

Bob,


I used 12khz.


----------



## dschamis

I understand that when using a PS3 with the D2 the processing of audio takes place in the PS3 and the PS3 passes a 5.1 channel LPCM signal to the D2.


I was under the impression that the new D2v2 will allow the processing to take place in v2 since it can decode the formats.


But today I heard on the EngadgetHD podcast that the PS3 requires that the processing happen in the player and won't pass unprocessed to the receiver for processing.


Is that true?


Thanks,


David


----------



## EL

the PS3 cannot pass the new codecs in HDMI (hardware limitation of the transceiver HDMI chip).

it then need to decode and pass the multich PCM to the D2 (which is as good) except that the actual D2 is limited to 5.1 PCM in HDMI


with the v2 you will be able to receive 7.1 PCM in HDMI.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15213801
> 
> 
> I understand that when using a PS3 with the D2 the processing of audio takes place in the PS3 and the PS3 passes a 5.1 channel LPCM signal to the D2.
> 
> 
> I was under the impression that the new D2v2 will allow the processing to take place in v2 since it can decode the formats.
> 
> 
> But today I heard on the EngadgetHD podcast that the PS3 requires that the processing happen in the player and won't pass unprocessed to the receiver for processing.
> 
> 
> Is that true?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David




Yes!


The PS3 cannot pass a signal via bitstream. The D2V2 when used with a PS3 will show the same Multi Channel In as the current D2. I think the important thing to keep in mind is there's no difference in what the end product will be. It will be the exact same result so there's no need to replace your PS3 with a BD player that will bitstream the formats.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/15213145
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I used 12khz.



I think you might benefit from raising that to 15KHz or perhaps a little higher (particularly in the Rear channels). You should try 20KHz for comparison to see just how much (if any) it degrades your lower frequency Calculated results. You can do these experiments without having to re-Measure, and you don't have to Upload unless you get a result that looks better to you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've had a chance to do more listening with the "test" ARC V1.2.13 20KHz results from my second set of Measurements, and the results are mixed.


The sound is very accurate and detailed. I really like the additional improvements I'm hearing in the higher frequencies. Bass is tight with a good transition from deep bass to low mid-range.


But the sound appears a little deader to me -- perhaps a bit more "back in the box" rather than airy. There's not as much wow factor.


I may be hearing the 0.8dB decrease in Room Gain compared to what ARC V1.2.5 set me up with -- i.e., may just need to get used to this sound. Or it may be something else in what the new ARC is doing -- or my ears may still be recovering from airline travel.


Anyway, there haven't been many reports on what this new "test" ARC sounds like so I thought I throw in some comments.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15216003
> 
> 
> I've had a chance to do more listening with the "test" ARC V1.2.13 20KHz results from my second set of Measurements, and the results are mixed.
> 
> 
> The sound is very accurate and detailed. I really like the additional improvements I'm hearing in the higher frequencies. Bass is tight with a good transition from deep bass to low mid-range.
> 
> 
> But the sound appears a little deader to me -- perhaps a bit more "back in the box" rather than airy. There's not as much wow factor.



Bob, I'd be curious to hear your opinion of the sound if you set the ARC bandwidth down to something like 200 Hz. Confine ARC operation to the area below the room's Schreoder frequency so as to only treat the dominant room modes. Then see what blooms. Or maybe you have done this previously...


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15214762
> 
> 
> Yes!
> 
> 
> The PS3 cannot pass a signal via bitstream. The D2V2 when used with a PS3 will show the same Multi Channel In as the current D2. I think the important thing to keep in mind is there's no difference in what the end product will be. It will be the exact same result so there's no need to replace your PS3 with a BD player that will bitstream the formats.



I understand that the final outcome will not be different, but there is something preferable to me about doing the decoding in the processor. Is that rational? No, of course not, but I still kinda feel that way. A leftover from the old days of Dolby Digital processing in the DVD player with analog outs.


Anyway, I am not about to run out and replace my PS3, but it is interesting to know. I'm surprised that the PS3 can't do that. I wonder if future versions will upgrade the hardware???


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15216168
> 
> 
> Bob, I'd be curious to hear your opinion of the sound if you set the ARC bandwidth down to something like 200 Hz. Confine ARC operation to the area below the room's Schreoder frequency so as to only treat the dominant room modes. Then see what blooms. Or maybe you have done this previously...



Roger that is a really interesting idea, I'm not sure anyone has tried that but you might just have motivated me to give it a shot.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15216168
> 
> 
> Bob, I'd be curious to hear your opinion of the sound if you set the ARC bandwidth down to something like 200 Hz. Confine ARC operation to the area below the room's Schreoder frequency so as to only treat the dominant room modes. Then see what blooms. Or maybe you have done this previously...



I have not tried that, and I'm loathe to give up the patent gains in mid-range and highs that I've achieved with the "official" ARC V1.2.5 by RAISING the Max EQ Frequency above the default 5KHz.


I suspect V1.2.13 still just needs a little more tweaking.


One thing I have noticed is that the white noise timbre of all the main speakers seems more closely matched with V1.2.13 than with any previous ARC version. I suspect that has to do with their improved analysis/processing of the high frequencies as well as generally lowering the crossovers a bit.


Anyway, ARC V1.2.5 remains my "wow factor champ" for now.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just did a quick experiment with my second set of V1.2.13 Measurements -- lowering Max EQ Frequency to 200Hz and just doing a Calculation -- and right off the bat I can see a problem.


The Calculated results of course match the Target almost perfectly below 200Hz, but to achieve this ARC has adjusted the speaker gains to account for the gross level of peaks or dips in just that region -- which means the volume trim for the higher frequencies can be off quite a bit.


For example, my Center speaker Measured with a significant dip between 45Hz and 110Hz. With a "normal" Max EQ Frequency Target, ARC was not able to fully correct for that. It left a residual error of just a few dB in a small part of that region.


But when I lower Max EQ Frequency to 200Hz, ARC raises the speaker volume trim for Center to achieve "perfection" below 200Hz. That means I've got, for example, Calculated results about 6dB hot at 1900Hz. Since my highs were also a little low for that speaker (see the charts I posted yesterday), they come in pretty good with this method, but the entire mid-range is significantly too hot.


Similarly, my Right Surround speaker has a peak at 70Hz that causes ARC to lower its speaker volume trim a bit when Max EQ Frequency is lowered to 200Hz. My mid-range for that speaker thus comes in low by about 3dB.


The method works better for my other speakers since they don't have significant peaks or dips below 200Hz that might trigger this.


It looks like Anthem would need to reconsider how it is choosing its speaker gains for cases where the Max EQ Frequency is lowered so much. But this still might be worth a try for folks who don't have significant volume peaks or dips below 200Hz for any speaker.

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52

Using version 1.2.13 I ran cases with 9Khz, 12Khz, 15KHz and 20Khz (see the attached file).


There is no difference between the 15KHz and 20Khz calculated that I can see. That is perhaps because there is no change in the target curve at the top end with any of the calculations (9-20) and by the time I get to 15KHz the L/R matches the target curve. It does not seem to try and move closer to the target curve for the surrounds or the center.


Above 12Khz the lower end starts to deviate more which is not really surprising in my opinion as it is having to deal with some pretty major peaks and troughs, which might be improved with some speaker placement correction for the mains (tough to do with the space I have available).

 

ARC Graphs.pdf 106.8779296875k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15217295
> 
> 
> Using version 1.2.13 I ran cases with 9Khz, 12Khz, 15KHz and 20Khz (see the attached file).
> 
> 
> There is no difference between the 15KHz and 20Khz calculated that I can see. That is perhaps because there is no change in the target curve at the top end with any of the calculations (9-20) and by the time I get to 15KHz the L/R matches the target curve. It does not seem to try and move closer to the target curve for the surrounds or the center.
> 
> 
> Above 12Khz the lower end starts to deviate more which is not really surprising in my opinion as it is having to deal with some pretty major peaks and troughs, which might be improved with some speaker placement correction for the mains (tough to do with the space I have available).



That presentation makes it very easy to see some of the subtle differences! In Preview on my Mac (the standard PDF viewer on the Mac), I can zoom in and position one page and then switch to another page and it comes up in the same position so you can flip back and forth between pages and easily see the changes.


I agree that going from 15KHz to 20KHz is not making any changes that show on the chart. You might want to give a listen to both to see if you can HEAR something the charts don't show.


You have some tiny ripples that appear between the 12KHz and 15KHz charts. Look around 110Hz and around 600Hz. These are so tiny that they could easily be ignored, but if you decide 15KHz sounds just as good as 20KHz, then you might want to try LOWERING 15KHz closer to 12KHz in, say 500Hz steps, to see where those ripples go away, and then compare THAT to your original 15KHz in a listening test. Mind you it's not clear these ripples aren't just rounding limits in the charting stuff rather than real differences.


Despite those ripples, I would tend to lean towards 15Khz (or 20KHz) instead of the 12kHz results. Your speakers can use some help up there even if you are running into the 6dB protection limit of how much correction ARC will attempt to force through the amp and speakers up there.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15216607
> 
> 
> I just did a quick experiment with my second set of V1.2.13 Measurements -- lowering Max EQ Frequency to 200Hz and just doing a Calculation -- and right off the bat I can see a problem.
> 
> 
> [snip]
> 
> 
> It looks like Anthem would need to reconsider how it is choosing its speaker gains for cases where the Max EQ Frequency is lowered so much. But this still might be worth a try for folks who don't have significant volume peaks or dips below 200Hz for any speaker.



Thanks much for checking into this. Since ARC allows 200Hz-20kHz for MaxEQ, it seems they may have understood the validity of choosing a rather lower frequency limit. Maybe this gain issue you found just gets added to the bug list for further review.


On a different topic, I was looking thru the EQ plots as provided by Bob, Dlynch, MikeFL52, and Spridle1. I stopped there. In every case, there is a distinct but narrow notch in the measured room responses between 13kHz and 15kHz. It is the same freq for every speaker in a given system. I'm wondering if this is a characteristic of the microphone. If so, and the ARC is removing it (which it does in every case) then it's really adding a peak in the playback system response. Any thoughts? Am I just seeing things?


One way to check would be to try a measurement with an alternative brand of mic--assuming it doesn't have the same characteristic, to see if the notch goes away.


----------



## muad'dib

After several testing, I decided I for sure like 1.2.9 the best..











Sounds very airy, nice bass, and Just awesome sound..










I use the 20000hz option for max freq..



Anyway, hope anthem can keep the sound of this firmware, but do the bass enhancements they are doing in new firmwares..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15221518
> 
> 
> On a different topic, I was looking thru the EQ plots as provided by Bob, Dlynch, MikeFL52, and Spridle1. I stopped there. In every case, there is a distinct but narrow notch in the measured room responses between 13kHz and 15kHz. It is the same freq for every speaker in a given system. I'm wondering if this is a characteristic of the microphone. If so, and the ARC is removing it (which it does in every case) then it's really adding a peak in the playback system response. Any thoughts? Am I just seeing things?
> 
> 
> One way to check would be to try a measurement with an alternative brand of mic--assuming it doesn't have the same characteristic, to see if the notch goes away.



I doubt it's the mic. The ARC mics are individually calibrated and come with a calibration correction file specific to that mic serial number.


You also won't be able to use a non-ARC mic with the ARC software. The USB connection from the mic identifies the mic as an ARC mic and the software looks for that.


I suspect it is, rather, an artifact of the way the charts are constructed as an average of the different mic positions, along with the natural tendency of many speakers to have a hole in their dispersion right around 15KHz (which emphasizes directionality concerns).


Consider for example the V1.2.5 charts from my setup found in this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...s#post14422227 


These were taken with the same ARC mic I used for the V1.2.13 charts I just posted.. You'll note that thsee older charts don't show anything particularly alarming around 13KHz. But in the newer ARC software Anthem has revised the way they analyze the raw data upwards of 15Khz to help eliminate directionality issues from the speakers. And I'm not sure the charts fully show what's really going on just below that.


We've had other V1.2.5 results posted that are flat up there, and we've also had posts from folks who had severe dips around 15Khz in their surrounds but flat on the mains. Again, I don't think it is the mic, but I also don't think the chart is telling us the whole story of what's going on up there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15221518
> 
> 
> Thanks much for checking into this. Since ARC allows 200Hz-20kHz for MaxEQ, it seems they may have understood the validity of choosing a rather lower frequency limit. Maybe this gain issue you found just gets added to the bug list for further review.



I sent an email to Nick at Anthem with instructions for how to reproduce this odd Center speaker result by doing a 200Hz Calculation using one of the ARC V1.2.13 files I'd already sent him. I'll let you know what I hear back.

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15217979
> 
> 
> That presentation makes it very easy to see some of the subtle differences! In Preview on my Mac (the standard PDF viewer on the Mac), I can zoom in and position one page and then switch to another page and it comes up in the same position so you can flip back and forth between pages and easily see the changes.
> 
> 
> I agree that going from 15KHz to 20KHz is not making any changes that show on the chart. You might want to give a listen to both to see if you can HEAR something the charts don't show.
> 
> 
> You have some tiny ripples that appear between the 12KHz and 15KHz charts. Look around 110Hz and around 600Hz. These are so tiny that they could easily be ignored, but if you decide 15KHz sounds just as good as 20KHz, then you might want to try LOWERING 15KHz closer to 12KHz in, say 500Hz steps, to see where those ripples go away, and then compare THAT to your original 15KHz in a listening test. Mind you it's not clear these ripples aren't just rounding limits in the charting stuff rather than real differences.
> 
> 
> Despite those ripples, I would tend to lean towards 15Khz (or 20KHz) instead of the 12kHz results. Your speakers can use some help up there even if you are running into the 6dB protection limit of how much correction ARC will attempt to force through the amp and speakers up there.
> 
> --Bob



ARC is a great tool as it allows me to quickly do analytical simulations (once you have taken the mic readings), choose the ones that look promising and compare those on my system.


I listened to the 15KHz and 20KHz and could not tell any audible difference, both sounded excellent by the way. When I tried 20KHz with an earlier version it tended to sound brittle at the top end, with the new version (1.2.13) it doesn't. I also seem to remember that the target curve for earlier versions did not have the fall off slope beyond 5KHz, but I might be wrong in that.


Over the weekend I will focus in on the 12-15KHz region and see what I get. Sometimes my family doesn't enjoy hearing the same piece of music or watching the same excerpt of bluray concert or movie over and over again!!


For me it would be interesting if anyone had what they might call reference pieces of multi-channel music (not DVDA or SACD). I have enough good pieces of 2-channel music that I can use for the "Music" or in my case stereo set up. I also have some good concert DVDs and Blurays but I am not sure that I would call them reference.


----------



## KIDSMD1

Mikefl52

The best sounding recorded music now available are the multichannel Acoustic Reality Experience recordings on Blu-ray. They are 7.1 DTS-HD Master Audio Discs (awesome sounding). You can purchase them from Amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_d?...dio+&x=17&y=24 ), Enjoy!


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

I just uploaded the lastest version of arc and ran new measurements etc and uploaded to the D2. I then checked the speaker levels that the arc set against measurements that I took with the my radioshack SPL meter. ARC had set my center channel at +3 which conflicted with my in balance measurement of -1 with my radioshack SPL meter. All other channels were pretty much spot on...mayby off by .5 in a few cases. Is there a reason for this or just an error on ARCs part? I adjusted the center back down to -1 to balance that channel with the rest. Should I not have done this?


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/15224704
> 
> 
> I just uploaded the lastest version of arc and ran new measurements etc and uploaded to the D2. I then checked the speaker levels that the arc set against measurements that I took with the my radioshack SPL meter. ARC had set my center channel at +3 which conflicted with my in balance measurement of -1 with my radioshack SPL meter. All other channels were pretty much spot on...mayby off by .5 in a few cases. Is there a reason for this or just an error on ARCs part? I adjusted the center back down to -1 to balance that channel with the rest. Should I not have done this?



Why do you assume that ARC is less accurate than your RS meter? Pink noise readings from the RS (calibrated or not) are likely to be less accurate than gated sweeps into a calibrated system.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KIDSMD1* /forum/post/15222939
> 
> 
> Mikefl52
> 
> The best sounding recorded music now available are the multichannel Acoustic Reality Experience recordings on Blu-ray. They are 7.1 DTS-HD Master Audio Discs (awesome sounding). You can purchase them from Amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_d?...dio+&x=17&y=24 ), Enjoy!



Thanks a lot, I will look at those and maybe put some on my Christmas list


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15222487
> 
> 
> For me it would be interesting if anyone had what they might call reference pieces of multi-channel music (not DVDA or SACD). I have enough good pieces of 2-channel music that I can use for the "Music" or in my case stereo set up. I also have some good concert DVDs and Blurays but I am not sure that I would call them reference.



Pick just about any movie with a solid audio track and you'll find that the music running during the closing credits represents about the best music quality you'll find anywhere on the disc.


For example, I use the closing credits score from "Pirates of the Caribbean: At World's End" Blu-Ray.


The reason is that there's no mix of dialog or effects audio at that point and so the music audio editor gets to show off.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/15224704
> 
> 
> I just uploaded the lastest version of arc and ran new measurements etc and uploaded to the D2. I then checked the speaker levels that the arc set against measurements that I took with the my radioshack SPL meter. ARC had set my center channel at +3 which conflicted with my in balance measurement of -1 with my radioshack SPL meter. All other channels were pretty much spot on...mayby off by .5 in a few cases. Is there a reason for this or just an error on ARCs part? I adjusted the center back down to -1 to balance that channel with the rest. Should I not have done this?



ARC uses a wider frequency range than your SPL meter in picking the target volume trim. The ACTUAL volume you get when playing real content is a combo of the volume trim and the cuts/boosts that are implemented by the Room Correction stuff.


Now, the latest "test" ARC software may still have some bugs here -- I've got some questions about this myself and I've sent files off to Nick -- but in general it is typical for the SPL readings to be off by a couple dB even with the "official" V1.2.5 ARC. That's normal.


If you are convinced the "test" ARC has chosen the wrong speaker trims, however, i.e., if it SOUNDS wrong using ARC's values, by all means please do send your ARC results file (not just pictures of the charts) to Anthem tech support. The engineers can see all the raw data in the file and can tell if something is getting screwed up.

--Bob


----------



## m396 #00-011

Guys,


I've had a problem with my AVM50 crop up a few days ago, and it's getting worse. The unit will go nuts and turn on every zone, change inputs, etc. It doesn't matter if its off or already on.


I've tried connecting it from the wall to my panamax conditioner, unhooking all HDMI, removing the batteries from the remote (universal mx-850) all with no luck.


Anybody seen anything like this? I was going to try and call Nick today, but it got too late.


Could a cordless phone, wireless internet, etc cause interference like this. We dont have a home phone, and tried shutting down the wireless net.


????


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15222487
> 
> 
> For me it would be interesting if anyone had what they might call reference pieces of multi-channel music (not DVDA or SACD). I have enough good pieces of 2-channel music that I can use for the "Music" or in my case stereo set up. I also have some good concert DVDs and Blurays but I am not sure that I would call them reference.



If you're looking for a reference BD, the Dave Matthews at Radio City Music Hall is imo, outstanding and can be had for under $20.

Even if it doesn't suit your needs for the test, it is killer for both PQ & AQ & content.

There's no deep bass or uber-highs but lots of acoustic guitar and vocal.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/15229795
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> 
> I've had a problem with my AVM50 crop up a few days ago, and it's getting worse. The unit will go nuts and turn on every zone, change inputs, etc. It doesn't matter if its off or already on.
> 
> 
> I've tried connecting it from the wall to my panamax conditioner, unhooking all HDMI, removing the batteries from the remote (universal mx-850) all with no luck.
> 
> 
> Anybody seen anything like this? I was going to try and call Nick today, but it got too late.
> 
> 
> Could a cordless phone, wireless internet, etc cause interference like this. We dont have a home phone, and tried shutting down the wireless net.
> 
> 
> ????



Do a Save User Settings (so you can recover later). Then do a Restore Factory Defaults. Then power cycle the unit both at the front panel and with the back panel switch (to force a complete fresh start). If you have anything attached to the serial port, disconnect it while the unit is off.


Leave the unit powered on in Factory Defaults like this -- you probably won't have video but you'll be able to see what it is doing on the Front Panel.


Does it still make random changes? If so, use the Front Panel buttons to get to Setup > Trigger / IR / RS-232 > Set IR Inputs and clear the "*" from every single location in that matrix. Once you do this, you will have to continue via just the Front Panel as you have turned off all remote control IR access.


Does the unit still make random changes with all IR ports disabled and with no serial connection? If so that sounds like a hardware fault, but you can try re-loading the V1.33 firmware on top of itself to see if that clears it. This may be dangerous if the unit thinks it is receiving IR or Serial commands WHILE the firmware install is in progress. So it would probably be best to call Anthem tech support and have them work this with you.


If the Reload Factory Defaults or the turning off of the IR inputs makes the problem go away, then you can work your way back from that. Obviously you should make sure the original Anthem remotes are not in the room. Leaving the unit in Factory Defaults, try enabling just the Front IR input for just the Main Path and see if your remote seems to work normally with the unit (remembering that it is still in Factory Defaults). If so, Reload your Saved User Settings and go in and disable all but the Front IR input for the Main Path and try it that way for a while.


If the unit works properly in Factory Defaults, but not when loaded with your User Settings, then something may be corrupted in your User Settings. Try manually re-entering enough of your user settings to get video and to play a source and see if things still work.


-----------------------------------------------------


Some display panels put out a lot of IR into the room. The usual result of that is that devices can't see the IR from your remote and so they don't respond -- rather than responding randomly. But it still wouldn't hurt to turn off your display and see if the problem goes away.


Radio devices like cordless phones, cell phones, and wireless internet can not affect the IR inputs. Even if the Anthem picked up radio frequency interference from the, the frequencies are so different it would not trigger IR style responses.


Normally I would suspect your programmable remote (bad programming or faulty remote), but you say you removed the batteries to disable that remote and the problem is still happening. I presume you are not using any OTHER IR remotes in the room besides that programmable remote, right?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As I'm getting more used to the lower Room Gain which "test" ARC V1.2.13 preserved, I'm starting to like the sound a lot. The high frequencies are the sweetest yet and there's a lot of nifty detail in the low mid-range and in attacks on percussion and plucked strings.


Obviously Anthem has some more work to do on this one before it is ready for prime time, but I'm really looking forward to hearing the final result!

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Are you using 20K setting? I'm using 15K and I agree with your observtions.

John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15127976
> 
> 
> That is EXACTLY what I get even without switching sources. Seems that when the signal is lost to the pj(hdmi related???) this is what happens. Since my flash erase and reinstall the sound is sometimes quieter but it is still there. I've also noticed the display on the AVM50 loses the audio sync and that is when it happens. You should email Nick the video link. That video says it all. Pressing mute does prevent the sound but I agree that it shouldn't happen. Mine has been like this for most of it's one year of operation.
> 
> John



John:


Have you had any luck resoling this issue yet? Anthem appears to be ignoring me with regards to this issue.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15201926
> 
> 
> Hummmm I'm not sure and I don't really want to play with it as it's now working the way I want it to. Are you getting a prompt saying something about your security settings not allowing you to do it? Someone here will be able to help you out for sure. Try posting in the PS3 thread.



Sorry I didn't respond earlier as my wireless was out of commission. I am not getting anything mentioning my security settings. I more or less gave up on trying to stream from my pc to the PS3.


----------



## jayray

It is still an issue but I am waiting for new fimware, supposedly after V2s come.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15233746
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Are you using 20K setting? I'm using 15K and I agree with your observtions.
> 
> John



Yes, I am using a 20KHz calculation based on my second set of V1.2.13 Measurements. I posted the charts here a couple days ago. I'm not sure I like the lower crossover it chose for my Center speaker. And I'm puzzled why it found a Room Gain almost 1dB below what V1.2.5 found (which I think is the cause of my initial reaction that the sound was "deader" -- as perhaps in anechoic). But I'm getting more enthused by this "new" sound.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse

I know it has been discussed a while back but anyone know what the latest word is on AppleTV - HDMI compatibility with the D2?

Just got my Apple TV yesterday and would love to get rid of the octopus that is emanating from the back...

/\\/\\


----------



## jayray




Bob Pariseau said:


> Yes, I am using a 20KHz calculation based on my second set of V1.2.13 Measurements. I posted the charts here a couple days ago. I'm not sure I like the lower crossover it chose for my Center speaker. And I'm puzzled why it found a Room Gain almost 1dB below what V1.2.5 found (which I think is the cause of my initial reaction that the sound was "deader" -- as perhaps in anechoic). But I'm getting more enthused by this "new" sound.
> 
> --Bob[/
> 
> 
> My room gain was the same for movie but -1db for music using fronts and sub only.
> 
> John


----------



## KIDSMD1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15232934
> 
> 
> As I'm getting more used to the lower Room Gain which "test" ARC V1.2.13 preserved, I'm starting to like the sound a lot. The high frequencies are the sweetest yet and there's a lot of nifty detail in the low mid-range and in attacks on percussion and plucked strings.
> 
> 
> Obviously Anthem has some more work to do on this one before it is ready for prime time, but I'm really looking forward to hearing the final result!
> 
> --Bob



Absolutely dead on, Bob. I'm using v1.2.13 corrected to 18k, 20k produced slight "ringing at the top end but 18k is perfect!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/15237418
> 
> 
> I know it has been discussed a while back but anyone know what the latest word is on AppleTV - HDMI compatibility with the D2?
> 
> Just got my Apple TV yesterday and would love to get rid of the octopus that is emanating from the back...
> 
> /\\/\\



AppleTV HDMI output does not even work with an Apple

Cinema Display. Why should it work with a D2. I use

Component.


It can't output 1080p because all the Content is 720p

and all the SOUND is just DD.


Therefore who needs to WASTE a valuable D2 HDMI Port?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15238234
> 
> 
> AppleTV HDMI output does not even work with an Apple
> 
> Cinema Display. Why should it work with a D2. I use
> 
> Component.
> 
> 
> It can't output 1080p because all the Content is 720p
> 
> and all the SOUND is just DD.
> 
> *Therefore who needs to WASTE a valuable D2 HDMI Port?*



Ahhh, the D2v2 with 8 HDMI ports makes that a non-issue!


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15239855
> 
> 
> Ahhh, the D2v2 with 8 HDMI ports makes that a non-issue!



I wish they would hurry. I just added my fifth HDMI device and I still have to get a PS3.


----------



## TREVLAN

Hi Anthem folks.


I just ran the new ARC version 1.2.5 for my AVM50. The bass seems better and more surround but overall it sounds to bright or high the center channel almost seems tinny[Like a can] not small, sorry I can't spell.

I am reading some of you are changing the hz? Someone said the default is 5hz if I am correct but some are changing this. How do you do this and to what effect does this do.

I mean how do you know 15-20 or 18 which ever is good?


----------



## abc999

After more than a week of using ARC 1.2.13, I finally decided to go back to 1.2.5. I find the Alpha software is very dry in the low frequency area. With 1.2.5, my sub level was -6.5dB, with the new one, its down to -10.5dB. The sound was not engaging, as if its less than 3dB than before.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15238234
> 
> 
> AppleTV HDMI output does not even work with an Apple
> 
> Cinema Display. Why should it work with a D2. I use
> 
> Component.
> 
> 
> It can't output 1080p because all the Content is 720p
> 
> and all the SOUND is just DD.
> 
> 
> Therefore who needs to WASTE a valuable D2 HDMI Port?




I do!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/15241444
> 
> 
> I do!



Enjoy your AppleTV HDMI output.


And let me know how well APPLE fixes their PROBLEM.


Because it is NOT Anthem's Fault it doesn't work!


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15242055
> 
> 
> Enjoy your AppleTV HDMI output.
> 
> 
> And let me know how well APPLE fixes their PROBLEM.
> 
> 
> Because it is NOT Anthem's Fault it doesn't work!



Hank... in my current setup, I have an post 2.0 Apple TV hooked up to my Pioneer SC07... works fine via HDMI from day one, but I also had a "launch" ATV that didn't work with my D2.... don't know if they changed hardware or it's the firmware, but it's been well behaved with the Pioneer.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15242205
> 
> 
> Hank... in my current setup, I have an post 2.0 Apple TV hooked up to my Pioneer SC07... works fine via HDMI from day one, but I also had a "launch" ATV that didn't work with my D2.... don't know if they changed hardware or it's the firmware, but it's been well behaved with the Pioneer.



I bought my AppleTV - Post 2.0 and it has never

worked with any HDMI device.


I called Apple IMMEDIATELY and they acknowledged

the problem and SAID - OH WELL - Use Component.


After All there really is NO REASON that mandates HDMI use.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15242227
> 
> 
> I bought my AppleTV - Post 2.0 and it has never
> 
> worked with any HDMI device.
> 
> 
> I called Apple IMMEDIATELY and they acknowledged
> 
> the problem and SAID - OH WELL - Use Component.
> 
> 
> After All there really is NO REASON that mandates HDMI use.



Agree with your last point... just telling you my experience with the new Pioneers.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15242249
> 
> 
> Agree with your last point... just telling you my experience with the new Pioneers.



There must be some HDMI device it works with.


I couldn't fathom how it would not even work with

an Apple Display. What kind of TESTING does that

say Apple Did??????










Anyway - I use it a lot and I'm happy with the Component

Performance after the D2 does a GREAT job processing it

to 1080p.


----------



## ibg5

17175.

Bob, thanks - the excellent answer. I will try as soon as will appear a few free time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/15240480
> 
> 
> Hi Anthem folks.
> 
> 
> I just ran the new ARC version 1.2.5 for my AVM50. The bass seems better and more surround but overall it sounds to bright or high the center channel almost seems tinny[Like a can] not small, sorry I can't spell.
> 
> I am reading some of you are changing the hz? Someone said the default is 5hz if I am correct but some are changing this. How do you do this and to what effect does this do.
> 
> I mean how do you know 15-20 or 18 which ever is good?



Run ARC in the "Advanced" mode and open the file with your Measurements. You will find a button at the top of the screen for Targets. Click on that and ARC will open the Targets window. The Max EQ Frequency Target tells ARC how high up it should try to do corrections. The default is 5KHz. Change that as you wish, accept that change (this will dismiss the Targets window and get you back to the charts), and click on Calculate to see your new results. When you like what you see, do an Upload to get those results into the Anthem.


If you post your charts here, we can take a look and see what's up. You need to run ARC in advanced mode and then do the Windows key combo for "Screen Capture Active Window" -- see Windows help. This puts an image of the active window in the clipboard. You can then, for example, paste that into Windows Paint (an accessory bundled with Windows), and "Save As" to get an image file on the desktop. I suggest you tell "Save As" to use JPEG format to keep the file size reasonably small. When you post a message here you can upload (attach) image files from your computer. You do that in the "Attach Files" area below the text box where you are typing in your post.


The Screen Capture Active Window only captures the visible part of the active window. So to get all your charts, scroll the window to the top and capture that, then scroll the window to the bottom and capture that, then open up the Targets window again and capture that. The result will be 3 image files you can post here (or 5 if you want to post your distinct Movie and Music configuration results).


------------------------------------------------


The ARC instructions warn that if you feel you are getting "bright" audio you should take another look at the height you are using for the ARC microphone when you do the Measurements. The ARC mic should be positioned so that the tip is at seated ear height for all the Measurement positions. Point the mic straight up. Make sure the individual positions are separated from each other by at least 24 inches. Position #1 should be dead center at your preferred seating distance. Then alternate either side of position #1 for each subsequent mic position. Be careful to keep the tip of the mic away from seat backs and walls. For example, raise the mic tip a few inches to clear the seat back, or move it closer to the speakers to keep a foot or so of separation from it to the seat back.


If you've done all that and you are still getting "bright" audio, your charts may tell the story. So post them here and we'll take a look.


Speakers are not uniform over all directions in their output at high frequencies. Their output is, instead, directional. If your speakers are mounted high up or are not pointed at the seating area, ARC may be hearing speaker directionality as differences at the different mic positions and ARC may be thinking that is due to the room when it is just due to the speaker positioning/pointing. That's why, by default, ARC doesn't try to correct audio above 5KHz.


-----------------------------------------------------


Also, if you haven't already done so, check out the ARC related post links you'll find in the first post of this thread. There are rather a lot of them, but most of the linked posts are short so it doesn't take that long. That will get you up to speed on the collected wisdom here about getting the best from ARC.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Did a remeasurment with 1.2.13 and room gain for music went from 2.2 db to 0 db. Did not upload but will send file to Nick. Nothing changed in my room, simply a remeasrement









John


----------



## TREVLAN

Thx Bob, I will try this tonight or once I get a chance.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

*Warning:* The following post is completely useless. I suggest you just stop reading now.


I’m picking up my d2 today. (I think, assuming it doesn’t get in too late) I can’t believe I’ll have a d2 in my theater this week. Having the d2… well it’s as near a home theater dream come true as it gets. It’s like stopping at Johnson’s general store everyday on my way home from school to look at the Red Racer in the window. That’s the best bicycle ever made. It’s got white walls in the tires and red streamers attached to the handlebars. I know Pa will never be able to afford it!










That’s the d2 to me! Some people around here don’t appreciate how expensive this thing is. I never ever thought I’d be able to have an 8000.00 processor. I just don’t make that kind of money. I smile when I read things like “why would you get the d2 when the d2v2 is out in a few weeks”. Ummm how about because the d2 is one of the finest pieces of home theater electronics ever made. This processor is worth about 2k more than anyone I know spent on their entire media room display included.


I’m so excited… I’ve spent two years looking at the d2 (in the AVS window) thinking it’ll never happen.


Today I get my Red Racer!


*jumps up on desk and dances*


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15244061
> 
> *Warning:* The following post is completely useless. I suggest you just stop reading now.
> 
> 
> I'm picking up my d2 today. (I think, assuming it doesn't get in too late) I can't believe I'll have a d2 in my theater this week. Having the d2 well it's as near a home theater dream come true as it gets. It's like stopping at Johnson's general store everyday on my way home from school to look at the Red Racer in the window. That's the best bicycle ever made. It's got white walls in the tires and red streamers attached to the handlebars. I know Pa will never be able to afford it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's the d2 to me! Some people around here don't appreciate how expensive this thing is. I never ever thought I'd be able to have an 8000.00 processor. I just don't make that kind of money. I smile when I read things like why would you get the d2 when the d2v2 is out in a few weeks. Ummm how about because the d2 is one of the finest pieces of home theater electronics ever made. This processor is worth about 2k more than anyone I know spent on their entire media room display included.
> 
> 
> I'm so excited I've spent two years looking at the d2 (in the AVS window) thinking it'll never happen.
> 
> 
> Today I get my Red Racer!
> 
> 
> *jumps up on desk and dances*



im in the market for a d2 also, buy im buying a onkyo876 temporary for my HT. eventually the 876 will find its way to the game room. I went to a paradigm/Anthem dealer and i was told the recievers can be upgraded lets say a D2 to a D2v2. also i think the street price for a D2 is arround 7k


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/15224756
> 
> 
> Why do you assume that ARC is less accurate than your RS meter? Pink noise readings from the RS (calibrated or not) are likely to be less accurate than gated sweeps into a calibrated system.



I assume that because all other channels matched.... RS meter and the ARC were the same EXCEPT for the center channel which was off by 4 point swing.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/15245008
> 
> 
> I assume that because all other channels matched.... RS meter and the ARC were the same EXCEPT for the center channel which was off by 4 point swing.



I do not see how that proves your point. The problems with using the RS meter fall from the use of pink noise which means that the FR of the speakers and the mic are factors.


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15244061
> 
> *Warning:* The following post is completely useless. I suggest you just stop reading now.
> 
> 
> I’m picking up my d2 today. (I think, assuming it doesn’t get in too late) I can’t believe I’ll have a d2 in my theater this week. Having the d2… well it’s as near a home theater dream come true as it gets. It’s like stopping at Johnson’s general store everyday on my way home from school to look at the Red Racer in the window. That’s the best bicycle ever made. It’s got white walls in the tires and red streamers attached to the handlebars. I know Pa will never be able to afford it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That’s the d2 to me! Some people around here don’t appreciate how expensive this thing is. I never ever thought I’d be able to have an 8000.00 processor. I just don’t make that kind of money. I smile when I read things like “why would you get the d2 when the d2v2 is out in a few weeks”. Ummm how about because the d2 is one of the finest pieces of home theater electronics ever made. This processor is worth about 2k more than anyone I know spent on their entire media room display included.
> 
> 
> I’m so excited… I’ve spent two years looking at the d2 (in the AVS window) thinking it’ll never happen.
> 
> 
> Today I get my Red Racer!
> 
> 
> *jumps up on desk and dances*



Congratulations Ohdee. I felt the same way when I got my AVM 50. Welcome to the club and enjoy your new "Red Racer."


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/15224756
> 
> 
> Why do you assume that ARC is less accurate than your RS meter? Pink noise readings from the RS (calibrated or not) are likely to be less accurate than gated sweeps into a calibrated system.



You are dead on what I am thinking.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15244061
> 
> *Warning:* The following post is completely useless. I suggest you just stop reading now.
> 
> 
> I’m picking up my d2 today. (I think, assuming it doesn’t get in too late) I can’t believe I’ll have a d2 in my theater this week. Having the d2… well it’s as near a home theater dream come true as it gets. It’s like stopping at Johnson’s general store everyday on my way home from school to look at the Red Racer in the window. That’s the best bicycle ever made. It’s got white walls in the tires and red streamers attached to the handlebars. I know Pa will never be able to afford it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That’s the d2 to me! Some people around here don’t appreciate how expensive this thing is. I never ever thought I’d be able to have an 8000.00 processor. I just don’t make that kind of money. I smile when I read things like “why would you get the d2 when the d2v2 is out in a few weeks”. Ummm how about because the d2 is one of the finest pieces of home theater electronics ever made. This processor is worth about 2k more than anyone I know spent on their entire media room display included.
> 
> 
> I’m so excited… I’ve spent two years looking at the d2 (in the AVS window) thinking it’ll never happen.
> 
> 
> Today I get my Red Racer!
> 
> 
> *jumps up on desk and dances*



There's a bunch of these guys getting ready to head your way:







































--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15243463
> 
> 
> Did a remeasurment with 1.2.13 and room gain for music went from 2.2 db to 0 db. Did not upload but will send file to Nick. Nothing changed in my room, simply a remeasrement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Check your charts for dips in the vicinity of the crossovers that might have confused ARC into thinking the Room Gain was negative (which makes no sense, so it uses 0dB).


Based on your experience (and mine) that separate Measurements produce surprisingly different results, I think there's something broken in the V1.2.13 Measurement or "Auto Detect" stuff. I've not yet heard back from Nick on the files I emailed him.


I ran my old V1.2.5 Measurements into ARC V1.2.13. There's no change in Targets unless you do an Auto Detect to cause V1.2.13 to reanalyze the raw data and come up with new Targets. If you DO run an Auto Detect the crossovers change and the Room Gain lowers. However, it does not lower AS MUCH as it does if you completely re-Measure with V1.2.13.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

My first measurement had a gain of 3.9 for both movie and music. Now music is 0 db. Quite a difference.

John


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15244061
> 
> *Warning:*
> 
> I'm picking up my d2 today. (I think, assuming it doesn't get in too late) I can't believe I'll have a d2 in my theater this week. Having the d2 well it's as near a home theater dream come true as it gets. It's like stopping at Johnson's general store everyday on my way home from school to look at the Red Racer in the window. That's the best bicycle ever made. It's got white walls in the tires and red streamers attached to the handlebars. I know Pa will never be able to afford it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm so excited I've spent two years looking at the d2 (in the AVS window) thinking it'll never happen.
> 
> 
> Today I get my Red Racer!
> 
> 
> *jumps up on desk and dances*



Merry Christmas Ohdee!!!

Enjoy yourself.


----------



## gblack

On Anthem's corp website:


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15242277
> 
> 
> There must be some HDMI device it works with.
> 
> 
> I couldn't fathom how it would not even work with
> 
> an Apple Display. What kind of TESTING does that
> 
> say Apple Did??????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway - I use it a lot and I'm happy with the Component
> 
> Performance after the D2 does a GREAT job processing it
> 
> to 1080p.



It works fine with the Anchor Bay DVDO VP50 that I use with my D1 for the video side.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15252236
> 
> 
> It works fine with the Anchor Bay DVDO VP50 that I use with my D1 for the video side.



Next Time I roll out my Equipment rack so I can get to the cables in the rack -

I'll give it another try. I know my AppleTV has had 3-4 updates since the

original 2.0 update. Maybe they finally fixed it. It clearly DID NOT work at FW 2.0.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/15250984
> 
> 
> On Anthem's corp website:



Did you miss the Red Racer post?










Sale ends Dec 31!


----------



## rkphelps

Guys, I would like your feedback on my first Arc-1 Charts I took over the weekend. I used arc 1.2.5 @ the default settings with no manual settings in my D2 (everything @ default 1.33 firmware settings). I uploaded the results and listened to one of the few Blu/Ray's I own (Wall-E) and the results were amazing. Today I played around with Arc Advanced MaxEQ settings on my computer and it looks like changing from 5000 to around 10,000 may offer some improvements, where as 12,000 or higher shows some falloff. My L&R side Di-pole speakers seem to struggle more staying on target than my other speakers. Do you think I Would see improvement if I upgraded to the newer paradigm surround speaker which has a 3 speaker configuration in it (one facing out from the wall and dipoles on each side)? How do my Charts look?



My Current Home Theater System:


Pre/Pro Anthem Statement D2 w/Arc Microphone Room Correction

Parasound AMP HCA-2205AT 5x 220w

Onkyo THX828 receiver used only as amp for rears 2x 100w


Mains: (2) Paradigm Studio 100s V2

Center: (1) Paradigm CC-570

Sides: (2) Paradigm ADP-450 Dipole

Rears: (2) Paradigm ADP-150 Dipole

Subs: (2) SVS 16-46 CSPlus & Samson 2x 500w amp


Sony PS3 Blu/Ray Player

Panasonic RP91 DVD Player

Sony VPL-VW40 Projector

Stewart Fire hawk Screen 100 HD


(6) Home Theater Recliner Seats


Theater Room size: 15x22x7

 

Arc Charts Max EQ 5000.doc 445.5k . file

 

Arc Charts Max EQ 10000.doc 462.5k . file

 

Arc Charts Max EQ 12000.doc 464k . file


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15246056
> 
> 
> Check your charts for dips in the vicinity of the crossovers that might have confused ARC into thinking the Room Gain was negative (which makes no sense, so it uses 0dB).
> 
> 
> Based on your experience (and mine) that separate Measurements produce surprisingly different results, I think there's something broken in the V1.2.13 Measurement or "Auto Detect" stuff. I've not yet heard back from Nick on the files I emailed him.
> 
> 
> I ran my old V1.2.5 Measurements into ARC V1.2.13. There's no change in Targets unless you do an Auto Detect to cause V1.2.13 to reanalyze the raw data and come up with new Targets. If you DO run an Auto Detect the crossovers change and the Room Gain lowers. However, it does not lower AS MUCH as it does if you completely re-Measure with V1.2.13.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

For what it's worth, I ran my v1.2.2 measurements with v1.2.13 and did an Auto Detect, but room gain remained at 3.945749. Since I did not load the new calculations, I can't say whether there's change in any of the x'overs.

-Ben


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/15245216
> 
> 
> I do not see how that proves your point. The problems with using the RS meter fall from the use of pink noise which means that the FR of the speakers and the mic are factors.



Update: I "re-measured" with arc twice since getting the +3 center channel reading with the same mic positioning as before and the center channel level setting (in both runs) has now changed back from +3 down to -1 - as the RS meter had measured. Must have been an error afterall with the first ARC measurement.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/15254364
> 
> 
> Update: I "re-measured" with arc twice since getting the +3 center channel reading with the same mic positioning as before and the center channel level setting (in both runs) has now changed back from +3 down to -1 - as the RS meter had measured. Must have been an error afterall with the first ARC measurement.



That's a very surprising sort of error. Can you think of anything that might have screwed up the mic #1 position's Measurement of the Center speaker to cause ARC to have added the extra boost (e.g., someone standing between the speaker and the mic or the like causing the mic to hear less volume from that speaker)? The speaker volume trims are determined by the mic #1 position Measurements.


The typical sorts of errors I can think of (pointing the mic towards the speaker instead of straight up, or having ambient noise just below the level ARC complains about) would all cause ARC to Measure too high, and thus apply LOWER speaker volume trim to that speaker rather than higher.


And remind me, are you using "official" ARC V1.2.5 at this point or "test" ARC V1.2.13.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15254221
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> For what it's worth, I ran my v1.2.2 measurements with v1.2.13 and did an Auto Detect, but room gain remained at 3.945749. Since I did not load the new calculations, I can't say whether there's change in any of the x'overs.
> 
> -Ben



Very puzzling. Still no word back from Nick on what the engineers might have found in the files I sent him.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/15252931
> 
> 
> Guys, I would like your feedback on my first Arc-1 Charts I took over the weekend. I used arc 1.2.5 @ the default settings with no manual settings in my D2 (everything @ default 1.33 firmware settings). I uploaded the results and listened to one of the few Blu/Ray's I own (Wall-E) and the results were amazing. Today I played around with Arc Advanced MaxEQ settings on my computer and it looks like changing from 5000 to around 10,000 may offer some improvements, where as 12,000 or higher shows some falloff. My L&R side Di-pole speakers seem to struggle more staying on target than my other speakers. Do you think I Would see improvement if I upgraded to the newer paradigm surround speaker which has a 3 speaker configuration in it (one facing out from the wall and dipoles on each side)? How do my Charts look?
> 
> 
> 
> My Current Home Theater System:
> 
> 
> Pre/Pro Anthem Statement D2 w/Arc Microphone Room Correction
> 
> Parasound AMP HCA-2205AT 5x 220w
> 
> Onkyo THX828 receiver used only as amp for rears 2x 100w
> 
> 
> Mains: (2) Paradigm Studio 100’s V2
> 
> Center: (1) Paradigm CC-570
> 
> Sides: (2) Paradigm ADP-450 Dipole
> 
> Rears: (2) Paradigm ADP-150 Dipole
> 
> Subs: (2) SVS 16-46 CS–Plus & Samson 2x 500w amp
> 
> 
> Sony PS3 Blu/Ray Player
> 
> Panasonic RP91 DVD Player
> 
> Sony VPL-VW40 Projector
> 
> Stewart Fire hawk Screen 100” HD
> 
> 
> (6) Home Theater Recliner Seats
> 
> 
> Theater Room size: 15’x22’x7’



ARC has really cleaned up your bass and mid-range so things should sound better! But there's still room for improvement.


First lets consider your speaker positioning/pointing and function. The severe drop in high frequencies ARC is Measuring may be due to problems with these. Play some CD passages with high treble and set the Audio Mode in the D2 to Stereo ALL so that all speakers are playing the same thing the LF/RF speakers are playing. Now go up to each speaker and put your ear close to the tweeter driver and make sure sound is coming out of it from each tweeter. If you have a problem here, double check your wiring -- some speakers have separate input jacks for treble that need to be wired -- and double check that you haven't turned on any filtering or room response control that might be in the speaker. While you are at it, check the other drivers in each speaker to make sure they are all firing. Once you know all your tweeters are functioning, consider how the speakers are positioned/pointed. Many speakers have much worse vertical dispersion in high trebles than horizontal dispersion. That means the speakers need to be mounted at seated ear level or pointed down towards the seats or you will lose disproportionate amounts of high treble. Horizontal pointing is also important for best highs but vertical pointing is the biggie. Of course your dipole speakers, by design, fire to each side rather than towards the seats, so mounting height and vertical pointing are really all you can work with.


Meanwhile your subwoofer combo looks like it is good down to around 35Hz. You might want to consider replacing your sub combo with a sub that is big enough for the room and that can go deeper. You are losing about one octave in the deepest bass (the subsonics). Meanwhile, consider repositioning your subs closer to a wall or corner which will give you some boost in the deepest base due to Boundary Gain. Keep in mind that since you have more than one sub you will need to set their relative phasing correctly to keep them from canceling each other. Power one sub at a time, use the sub phase test tones from a calibration DVD, and set each sub in turn to proper phase with the LF speaker. When both subs individually are in phase with the LF speaker then they are also in phase with each other. This assumes you actually have independent phase controls for your 2 subs. If not, you'll have no way to adjust this.


Also check sub Polarity while doing this.


By the way, when using ARC, the Setup > Speaker Configuration in the D2 should be set to 1 Subwoofer even though you actually have more than one.


------------------------------------------


Next let's get your basic volume level up closer to 75dB. What I call the basic volume level is the dB level of the flat part of the Target curve you'll see to the right of the Room Gain hump (near the crossovers). Right now you are getting about 67dB. To raise that you raise the Setup > Speaker Calibration > Noise Level value which ARC uses to set the volume of its test tones.


To do that, get out your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter with a fresh set of batteries. Set it to "C" weighting and "Slow" response. Go into Setup > Speaker Calibration and note down the values for all the volume trims in there now (the ones ARC just Uploaded for you) and report them here as that may help us understand what's going on better. Then zero all of them out. With all the individual speaker volume trims at 0 (really only LF and Subwoofer matter at this point, but its just easier to say zero them all out), then set the test mode to Manual in the top line and scroll down to the Noise Level line.


You will now be getting "white noise" from the LF speaker. Hold the SPL meter at arm's length pointing straight up and positioned at ARC mic position #1 (seated ear height). Now adjust the Noise Level line until you read roughly 75dB SPL. Report the Noise Level value you find works best.


Now scroll down to the Subwoofer line (still zeroed) and using *ONLY* the volume control built into your sub system itself, adjust the volume in the subs until you read roughly 75dB SPL. When you are done your speaker volume trims in the D2 will still all be 0 (except for Noise Level) and the volume for your subs will now be set in the right ballpark for ARC to use without having to apply excessive volume trim to them.


NOTE: If you have separate volume controls for each of your 2 subs, then power one at a time and adjust the volume control on each of them to 73dB (not 75). Then power them both up and measure again and you should now have roughly 75dB SPL.


A ballpark setting is fine for these SPL setup measurements. ARC will refine things further. When you do your next set of ARC Measurements, your basic volume level should be much closer to 75dB -- it needn't be precisely 75.


ETA: You only have to do the Noise Level and internal subwoofer volume settings once. ARC ignores the current values for all of the other Setup > Speaker Calibration volume trim lines when it makes its Measurements, and replaces them with new values when it Uploads its results. All that matters is your current setting for Noise Level and the internal volume control in your subs. So you don't have to re-zero this stuff prior to each new ARC Measurement you might do. Note that due to a bug you MUST zero the LF speaker volume trim line before taking SPL readings to adjust the Noise Level line.


-------------------------------------------------


Next consider how you are taking your ARC Measurements. Problems in treble can also be due to faulty mic positioning.


The ARC mic must be pointing straight up at each mic position. It should be set at seated ear height for each position. If you recline the seats while viewing then use the reclined ear height. Make sure the mic tip is not adjacent to any surfaces (seat backs, walls, etc.). Raise the mic a couple inches so the tip clears the seat back or change the mic position to be about 1 foot closer to the screen to get the mic away from the seat back.


The mic positions should be chosen so that no mic position is closer than 24 inches to any other mic position. Mic position #1 must be dead center (on the center axis from the screen) at your preferred seating distance. Alternate either side of mic position #1 for each subsequent position. Personally I like an arc or box configuration for mic positioning:


4 ..............5

..\\............/..

....2 - 1 - 3...., which works well for single row seating, or


2.........3

...\\...../..

.....1.....

.../....\\..

4........5, which works well for multi-row seating. You can extend these themes if you decide to use more than 5 mic positions.


---------------------------------------


Once you have adjusted your speakers, adjusted your Noise Level and the volume setting inside your subs, and reconsidered your mic placement, take another set of ARC Measurements and see what you get this time.


Open up your new ARC file in Advanced mode and click on Targets to bring up the Targets window. Capture that one along with your charts for your next report so we can see what Targets ARC is now using.


Also report the new speaker volume trims that ARC Uploads this time so we can see how changing your Noise Level has affected that.


--------------------------------------


It may still turn out that you need some new speakers to get better high frequency results, but let's decide that later. I do think you should consider a subwoofer that goes deeper however. Your analysis on the Max EQ Frequency Target is reasonable, but it is being biased by the amount of correction ARC needs to do for the high frequencies. If we can get your Measured curve flatter up there things will work even better.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15254725
> 
> 
> That's a very surprising sort of error. Can you think of anything that might have screwed up the mic #1 position's Measurement of the Center speaker to cause ARC to have added the extra boost (e.g., someone standing between the speaker and the mic or the like causing the mic to hear less volume from that speaker)? The speaker volume trims are determined by the mic #1 position Measurements.
> 
> 
> The typical sorts of errors I can think of (pointing the mic towards the speaker instead of straight up, or having ambient noise just below the level ARC complains about) would all cause ARC to Measure too high, and thus apply LOWER speaker volume trim to that speaker rather than higher.
> 
> 
> And remind me, are you using "official" ARC V1.2.5 at this point or "test" ARC V1.2.13.
> 
> --Bob



I am using the official vv1.2.5.


I do think when I took the first measurement that I at one point had to "re-measure" the center channel after it did not capture it the first time due to some background noise... that could be it.


On another note, here are measurements... what do you think? I was wondering why I do not have the natural hump or room gain that arc introduces in images of most other posters here... is there a reason for that?


----------



## ~Ohdee~

OMG!


OMG!


OMG!


Big news boys. I picked up my D2 today.


I opened the accessories box and I found this surprise!


Remember what I paid for my D2!!!

*Anthem Statement!

Future Proof your D2!

For a limited time you can upgrade your D2 to the next generation D2V (coming soon!) for 1/2 price.


Ask your Dealer for details.


Offer Valid for 12 months from date of purchase.*



D2V2 for under 6K










Go and get your D2 NOW!


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15258147
> 
> 
> OMG!
> 
> 
> OMG!
> 
> 
> OMG!
> 
> 
> Big news boys. I picked up my D2 today.
> 
> 
> I opened the accessories box and I found this surprise!
> 
> 
> Remember what I paid for my D2!!!
> 
> *Anthem Statement!
> 
> Future Proof your D2!
> 
> For a limited time you can upgrade your D2 to the next generation D2V (coming soon!) for 1/2 price.
> 
> 
> Ask your Dealer for details.
> 
> 
> Offer Valid for 12 months from date of purchase.*
> 
> 
> 
> D2V2 for under 6K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go and get your D2 NOW!



WOW! It gets better and better for you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That's a pretty nifty deal! I wonder how they are going to implement the "limited time" portion of that. It certainly makes it sound like the D2 v.2 is getting pretty close.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/15258024
> 
> 
> I am using the official vv1.2.5.
> 
> 
> I do think when I took the first measurement that I at one point had to "re-measure" the center channel after it did not capture it the first time due to some background noise... that could be it.
> 
> 
> On another note, here are measurements... what do you think? I was wondering why I do not have the natural hump or room gain that arc introduces in images of most other posters here... is there a reason for that?



There's nothing really wrong with your Measurements that might have caused that. You've got that dip at the top of your Subwoofer curve but that's not that indicative. Just by eyeball it looks like your room just happens to have very little "natural" Room Gain that ARC needs to preserve.


It looks like ARC is giving you a small Room Gain, perhaps under 1dB. You might want to try raising that up yourself to see if you like the sound betted.


I suggest you try around 2.5dB. Do this in the Targets window (leave the "Force" box checked), accept that change and then re-Calculate and re-Upload. No need to re-Measure. Note that you can set the Room Gain separately for Movie and Music calculations.


---------------------------------


ARC is trying to detect the natural Room Gain of your particular listening room so as to preserve that even as it is trying to eliminate all the other artifacts of "room response". In your case it just looks like you room doesn't have much Room Gain.


Have you acoustically treated your room?


--------------------------------------------------------------------


While you are experimenting with Room Gain, also try raising the Max EQ Frequency target out towards 15KHz or even 20KHz. Your Measurements are already good enough that I think you can push ARC to do correction all the way up there without suffering significant degradation of the Calculated lower frequencies. I think you may be able to correct essentially all of the high frequency drop-off you've Measured.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~

So it's looking more and more like my only option to run ARC will be an RS232 to USB adaptor off a Vista laptop. Should I be afraid?


Also, and I know I'll be doing lots and lots of reading before I run ARC and I'll likely come across this anyway but how should the phase and whatnot on the sub be set before I run ARC? Do I still have to make those adjustments on the sub itself or will ARC set it up?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15262059
> 
> 
> So it's looking more and more like my only option to run ARC will be an RS232 to USB adaptor off a Vista laptop. Should I be afraid?
> 
> 
> Also, and I know I'll be doing lots and lots of reading before I run ARC and I'll likely come across this anyway but how should the phase and whatnot on the sub be set before I run ARC? Do I still have to make those adjustments on the sub itself or will ARC set it up?



There are people posting here who have had success setting up ARC using Windows Vista and the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter. Be aware that the driver software that ships with the adapter may not be the latest version, so plan on downloading and installing the correct Vista driver software from the Keyspan website (be sure you get the right driver for your version of the OS). I suspect that the problem reports we've had with Vista computers, and with XP computers for that matter, are not due to Vista itself but due to the particular variation of it the computer maker has bundled with the computer. I say this because it seems that folks using separately purchased Vista don't seem to be having any problems. If you have another USB/serial device installed that you don't trust (e.g., Radio Shack), it is best to uninstall it before installing the Keyspan stuff.


-----------------------------------


I recommend you set up your speaker stuff at first WITHOUT using ARC so that you get familiar with the Setup menu and what's involved. You needn't spend a lot of time with the non-ARC EQ controls built into the Anthem (e.g., Room Resonance Filter), but you should get familiar with the various Setup menu items for Speaker Configuration, Listener Position, Speaker Calibration and Source Setup. The Source Setup, Listener Position, and the subwoofer Phase/Polarity portion of Speaker Configuration > Bass Management needs to be set up manually anyway, so those parts are not even wasted effort.


When you are done with this, you will be able to play content and insure all your wiring and such is working correctly. Then do your ARC setup and see how much things improve!


-----------------------------------


CAUTION: Before setting up ARC, be sure to Save User and/or Installer Settings. There have been rare instances where running the ARC setup results in the Setup menu reverting to factory defaults. Recovery from this is easy if you have an up to date set of saved settings (just power cycle, and then Reload Saved User or Installer Settings, and then re-Upload your ARC results -- no need to re-Measure).


When using ARC, you will still need to manually set up:


1) Speaker distances (Setup > Listener Position). This can be done before or after doing ARC Measurements.


2) Subwoofer Phase & Polarity (using controls in the sub itself or using Setup > Speaker Configuration). If you have more than one subwoofer, this must be done before doing ARC Measurements. Otherwise you can do it before or after. ARC only listens to one speaker at a time, so Polarity/Phase adjustments are not an issue except when you have more than one sub, since ARC will hear all of your subs playing together.


3) Before running ARC Measurements, set the Setup > Speaker Calibration > Noise Level, and the volume setting inside your subwoofer, as most recently described in my post a few posts above.


4) Take care with how you position and point your speakers, and note your choices for later reference, as even minor repositioning or repointing can be enough to invalidate your ARC Measurements.


5) Make sure the room is configured the way you intend to use it for critical listening before you do your ARC Measurements. This includes doors open/closed, curtains open/closed, and furniture/rug placement. Even having a closet door open can change some of the "room modes" affecting bass response.


6) I suggest you use a wireless mouse so that it is easier to get out from between the mic and the speakers when you want to begin each round of test tones.


7) ARC ignores and replaces any crossover settings already in the Setup menu. ARC ignores and replaces all speaker volume trim settings in the Setup menu, except for Noise Level which it uses to set the volume of its test tones. ARC ignores the other EQ settings found in Setup for non-ARC users including the Room Resonance Filter, the Center Speaker EQ, the Bypass LFE Crossover setting, and the THX Ultra 2 and Boundary Gain subwoofer settings.


8) Setup > Speaker Configuration > Bass Management > Subwoofer should be set to 1 Sub when using ARC with a subwoofer even if you actually have more than one subwoofer. (ARC sets this. Just don't change it back.)


9) After you Upload your ARC results, if this is the first time you have done so, now go into Setup > Source Setup and, for each source device, turn Room EQ = ON to enable ARC usage for that device. If you are using overlayed device definitions with different setups (e.g. DVD2 vs. DVD1) be sure to do this for each of them.


IMPORTANT NOTE: After you have Uploaded your ARC results, take a look in the Setup menu and confirm that things look reasonable, and in particular that you haven't been bitten by the rare bug that causes the Setup menu to revert to factory defaults. Turn on Room EQ for each of your sources as necessary. Then be sure to do a Save User and/or Installer settings to capture what ARC has Uploaded, so that you don't accidentally wipe out your ARC setup later by restoring from those saved settings.


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Check for possible ARC volume trim bug.*


ARC Measurement is supposed to ignore all of the settings in Setup > Speaker Calibration except for the Noise Level setting. ARC Uploads new speaker volume trims according to its Calculations.


The V1.2.13 "test" ARC software has been producing some odd results for speaker volume trims.


If you are one of the people experiencing odd results, try this before your next set of V1.2.13 Measurements: Zero out all of the speaker volume trim settings in Setup > Speaker Calibration except for your Noise Level. Report back if this seems to result in ARC Uploading speaker volume trims that are closer to what you've come to expect.


----------------------------------------


Background: There is a long-standing, minor bug in Setup > Speaker Calibration such that the SPL produced by the Noise Level line varies according to what is currently in the LF speaker volume trim line. That means, if you want to adjust Noise Level to produce 75dB SPL you must first zero out the LF speaker volume trim line to avoid confusing yourself.


I have a suspicion that ARC's use of Noise Level might be getting confused by this as well, which means that ARC's "effective" Noise Level might differ based on what is left in the LF volume trim from previous stuff. And that could alter the volume trims ARC decides it needs to Upload.


On a separate note, I also suspect the volume trims ARC is Uploading are not properly taking into account any non-zero Noise Level value that might already be in Setup > Speaker Calibration. If you have a positive Noise Level value, this would result in the basic level ARC produces being higher than 75dB by whatever Noise Level value you have used.


E.g., I use a +3dB Noise Level to get 75dB SPL. The volume trims that ARC Uploads result in 78dB SPL when tested using the test tones from the Setup menu. Up to now I've thought that was just coincidence -- ARC's volume settings are more accurate than can be done using the Setup test tones and an SPL meter so some variation from 75dB SPL is to be expected. But perhaps not.


I haven't confirmed any of this yet, but thought I'd put it out in case anyone about to do a new Measurement would like to check it out. I've passed on my suspicions to Nick as well.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Bob,

Do you know if the D2 shuts down its video circuits when playing just an audio source?

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I posted the following around Thanksgiving and didn't get any responses. Perhaps now that we are in between Thanksgiving and Christmas someone will have the time to check this for me.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15135040
> 
> *Help Please: Check for possible HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 input black levels bug.*
> 
> 
> I need help checking something that I can't check with my equipment (and I'm traveling now anyway). To help test this you will need a DVD player (or Blu-Ray or HD-DVD player) that is able to output HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 (not 4:4:4) at BOTH 480i and 480p, and which can pass Blacker than Black output while doing so. You will also need an HDMI or DVI display that can accept Studio RGB input and display Blacker than Black data while doing so. And you will need a calibration DVD that displays Blacker than Black data (e.g., DVE or Avia Pro). If this paragraph is Greek to you, it would probably be best to let someone else help with this test so we don't get tied up in explaining the details.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Temporarily set Setup > Video Output > Data Format to Studio RGB.
> 
> 
> Using Video Source Adjust > Patterns, verify that the black level settings in your display are adjusted properly for this Studio RGB input. If you don't normally use Studio RGB to your display, then you may need to check the display is set to accept Studio RGB (black=16) instead of Extended RGB (black=0) for example. Temporarily make any necessary changes in the settings/levels in your display to properly display the Anthem's test patterns, paying particular attention to black levels for this Studio RGB input.
> 
> 
> Now play a test chart that includes Blacker than Black data off your calibration DVD. For example, the "3 black bars" black levels setting chart in DVE.
> 
> 
> Temporarily set your player to output HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 at 480i to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> For that Anthem input, confirm that Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space has YCbCr Auto and Studio RGB both checked. If necessary, temporarily change to those.
> 
> 
> Next, using only Video Source Adjust > Picture > Bright/Contrast/Color, carefully adjust the Anthem's input black levels (you do this mainly with the Brightness control in this menu). Do this in a darkened room. Raise the Brightness control in this menu (not the one in your display) until the Blacker than Black bar becomes visible, then carefully lower it until the Blacker than Black bar just barely vanishes into the uniform black background and is, thus, no longer visible.
> 
> 
> Now temporarily change you player to output HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 AT 480p to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> What SHOULD happen is that black levels do not change. The Blacker than Black bar will still be just barely invisible -- merged into the black background. If the bug exists, however, this 480p input will show black levels just a little bit higher. The amount is small -- the equivalent of about 3 steps of Video Source Adjust > Picture > Brightness adjustment. But even that small an amount will be enough to make the Blacker than Black bar rise into visibility if the bug exists. (Again, check this in a darkened room so you can see such a small change.)
> 
> *Please report your model of player, your model of display, the particular calibration disc you used, and your results.*
> 
> 
> ------------------------
> 
> 
> Additional info: HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4 input definitely does not exhibit this bug (I've already checked). Black levels are the same for all input resolutions into the Anthem. YCbCr 4:2:2 480i input will likely exhibit the same input black level as any input resolution of YCbCr 4:4:4 (which suggests that the 480i 4:2:2 input black levels are "correct"). YCbCr 4:2:2 480p and all higher 4:2:2 input resolutions will likely exhibit the same amount of higher input black levels if the bug exists. So to test this it is critical that your player is able to output YCbCr 4:2:2 at *480i* as well as at a higher resolution like 480p so you can see the difference (i.e., testing 480p vs. say 1080i won't help). Again, if there is no bug, there will be no difference.
> 
> 
> It is not obvious that sending Studio RGB to the display (instead of YCbCr) is actually necessary to test for this bug, but please do test it that way so I can eliminate another possible difference here. You must use Studio RGB output from the Anthem and not Extended RGB to test this.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15263700
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Do you know if the D2 shuts down its video circuits when playing just an audio source?
> 
> -Ben



It does not (for example the on-screen display remains active), and I don't believe there is any way to make it do so.


Keep in mind, we have had no reports here indicating any level of interference whatsoever from having the video circuits or front panel active during audio-only playback.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15263795
> 
> 
> It does not (for example the on-screen display remains active), and I don't believe there is any way to make it do so.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, we have had no reports here indicating any level of interference whatsoever from having the video circuits or front panel active during audio-only playback.
> 
> --Bob



Pity. I think any interference would be quite subtle, but logically speaking, there will be some. I seem to remember reading that certain high-end universal players or pre/processors have this feature. Also, shutting down the video circuits should make for a cooler power supply as it runs quite more than warm.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15263953
> 
> 
> Pity. I think any interference would be quite subtle, but logically speaking, there will be some. I seem to remember reading that certain high-end universal players or pre/processors have this feature. Also, shutting down the video circuits should make for a cooler power supply as it runs quite more than warm.
> 
> -Ben



Why don't you send an email to Anthem tech support asking about this? They can tell you better than I can what they've done to confirm isolation. And of course they can put this on the list of requested features.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15264009
> 
> 
> Why don't you send an email to Anthem tech support asking about this? They can tell you better than I can what they've done to confirm isolation. And of course they can put this on the list of requested features.
> 
> --Bob

















Actually I am hoping Nick will pick this up from here.







Maybe perhaps I should. Thanks.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15264104
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually I am hoping Nick will pick this up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe perhaps I should. Thanks.
> 
> -Ben



Based on some discussions I've had with Nick I suspect he is too busy at the moment to follow this thread every day. Perhaps he's working on the new manual for the D2 v.2?









--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15264130
> 
> 
> Based on some discussions I've had with Nick I suspect he is too busy at the moment to follow this thread every day. Perhaps he's working on the new manual for the D2 v.2?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I should say he should be very thankful to have you around here to assist users and I'm sure most of us will agree. Otherwise he won't even have time for his tea break, least of all a new manual.









-Ben


----------



## audiman

Some questions :


1- i'm still with version 1.20. Should i install the latest version ? i'm not using the ARC for now.


2- Is the D2v2 upgrade available now ?


Thx.


----------



## TREVLAN

What if any are you folks using for IPOD connections to your Anthem?


I just bought my wife a 4G NANO for xmas and was looking for ways to connect this to my AVM50 found a DENON dock for $250.. ouch more then what I paid for the damn nano.


Any suggestion/ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/15265475
> 
> 
> Some questions :
> 
> 
> 1- i'm still with version 1.20. Should i install the latest version ? i'm not using the ARC for now.
> 
> 
> 2- Is the D2v2 upgrade available now ?
> 
> 
> Thx.



The D2 v.2 upgrade is not yet available, nor are new D2 v.2 units shipping yet. However we just go word that Anthem is working some sort of special deal through their dealer network to apparently pre-order an upgrade at half price. We don't have a lot of details on that yet.


The latest firmware version is V1.33 and it is my recommendation that every D2 and AVM-50 owner should upgrade to that version whether or not you are also using ARC. In your case, there's no down-side that I'm aware of in going from V1.20 to V1.33.


ARC users absolutely should be on D2 or AVM-50 firmware V1.33.


The current "official" ARC version is V1.2.5, but folks are also using a "test" version that's currently at V1.2.13. I recommend that folks stick with V1.2.5 for now unless you enjoy testing unfinished stuff just to see what's coming.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15258147
> 
> 
> OMG!
> 
> 
> OMG!
> 
> 
> OMG!
> 
> 
> Big news boys. I picked up my D2 today.
> 
> 
> I opened the accessories box and I found this surprise!
> 
> 
> Remember what I paid for my D2!!!
> 
> *Anthem Statement!
> 
> Future Proof your D2!
> 
> For a limited time you can upgrade your D2 to the next generation D2V (coming soon!) for 1/2 price.
> 
> 
> Ask your Dealer for details.
> 
> 
> Offer Valid for 12 months from date of purchase.*
> 
> 
> 
> D2V2 for under 6K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go and get your D2 NOW!



Next time you go and buy a lottery ticket, buy one for me too.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/15267471
> 
> 
> Next time you go and buy a lottery ticket, buy one for me too.



Ohhhhhhhhhhhh










I was playing with the THX settings and now I can't get the D2 to show PCM. It was in PCM (I'm assuming that the same as LPCM). I can't see anything in the manual that says how to get PCM back.


I turned off the THX and now I'm getting AutoDig 1080p 5.1....


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/15266290
> 
> 
> What if any are you folks using for IPOD connections to your Anthem?
> 
> 
> I just bought my wife a 4G NANO for xmas and was looking for ways to connect this to my AVM50 found a DENON dock for $250.. ouch more then what I paid for the damn nano.
> 
> 
> Any suggestion/ideas?



Here's a $14 solution. http://www.superwarehouse.com/Cables...5507/p/1528343


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15268001
> 
> 
> Ohhhhhhhhhhhh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was playing with the THX settings and now I can't get the D2 to show PCM. It was in PCM (I'm assuming that the same as LPCM). I can't see anything in the manual that says how to get PCM back.
> 
> 
> I turned off the THX and now I'm getting AutoDig 1080p 5.1....



Ok got PCM back... Source Set up autodig no!


----------



## ~Ohdee~

What do you suggest (or use) as your bluray mode presets? 6.0 none, PLIIx THX Ultra 2 ect ect....


----------



## mlbrand

Do I need to worry about setting a shielded center channel speaker too close to my D2, like on a shelf 6" directly above it? I'm re-organizing my setup, and this is one option I am looking at. As the D2 is basically a computer, I'm a little worried about the large magnets in the speaker wreaking some electron havoc. Any thoughts?


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/15268972
> 
> 
> Do I need to worry about setting a shielded center channel speaker too close to my D2, like on a shelf 6" directly above it? I'm re-organizing my setup, and this is one option I am looking at. As the D2 is basically a computer, I'm a little worried about the large magnets in the speaker wreaking some electron havoc. Any thoughts?



IF your speaker is shielded, that means the magnets are well, shielded, and will not affected anything beyond the cabinet.


----------



## rkphelps

Bob, I first would like to thank you very much for taking the time to review my Arc Charts and I am going to try your recommendations over the next week or two. I will update here soon with my results.


On the Video side I have a question on a problem playing Blu-Ray vs Std DVD Movies with my PS3. I Calibrated my Sony VPL-VW40 Projector for the Blu-ray movies (1080P) to fit the Picture width for my 100" HD screen size. The problem is when I go to watch a Std DVD movie the picture does not reach the full width of the screen, it comes up short on the right side and if I calibrate the projector for Std DVD's the Blu-ray runs off the right side of the screen.


Is there a way to correct this using the D2 scaler? or a setting in the PS3? Has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15268412
> 
> 
> What do you suggest (or use) as your bluray mode presets? 6.0 none, PLIIx THX Ultra 2 ect ect....



I use the 6.0 analog input (since I have a D1) and set source to AnalgDSP so that it will use the ARC settings, but then I use none on other processing (THX, etc) since I have the sound that I want with ARC. I know that using AnalogDSP adds an extra step of processing but the ability to use ARC surmounts any loss due to the extra processing. If you use a D2 and LPCM input via HDMI I would again think that you are using ARC to get the sound that you want and therefore any further processing (except perhaps PLII to get the extra 2 channels if you have a 7.1 speaker set up) is not necessary.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/15269096
> 
> 
> IF your speaker is shielded, that means the magnets are well, shielded, and will not affected anything beyond the cabinet.



I know what shielded means, I'm just wondering if shielding is normally good enough to prevent interference issues with close by sensitive electronics like the D2.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15270373
> 
> 
> I use the 6.0 analog input (since I have a D1) and set source to AnalgDSP so that it will use the ARC settings, but then I use none on other processing (THX, etc) since I have the sound that I want with ARC. I know that using AnalogDSP adds an extra step of processing but the ability to use ARC surmounts any loss due to the extra processing. If you use a D2 and LPCM input via HDMI I would again think that you are using ARC to get the sound that you want and therefore any further processing (except perhaps PLII to get the extra 2 channels if you have a 7.1 speaker set up) is not necessary.



I see... And thanks. I haven't run ARC yet. I just hooked my D2 up on Tuesday night. I'm taking Bob's advice and getting familiar with the setting and options before I get into running ARC.


I hope to do it Saturday.


BTW, instead of going with a 50.00 usb adapter I went and picked up and an actual com port. It was 4.00 and is connected direct to motherboard. I'll have to lug my computer downstairs for the afternoon but that's no problem.


----------



## ibg5

Bob, I have ordered DVE. Deliver approximately in a month. Then I will try.

Still questions:

1. Pioneer PDP - LX6090 it is established in a mode dot-for-dot mode. Thus the screen is filled not completely. At the left - on 1 inch, and on the right - on 1,5 inches. I am afraid, that pixels will non-uniformly grow old. At switching in a mode Scale the image fills the screen completely. I somewhere read, that it is an old problem. I can not find a source. Do not prompt, why such effect?

2. In a mode 1080p at slow moving of the chamber the image twitches (stroboscope). In a mode 1080i such effect is not present.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ibg5* /forum/post/15194369
> 
> 
> If to follow your recommendations Setup> Video Output> Color Space, the recommended setting is Auto the colour space is switched in HDTV. Thus red colour becomes claret and practically its shades vanish. Besides, persons of people on the screen have a lilac shade. In SDTV the colour range is wider, colours become natural. Remember, how the cut water-melon looks? In HDTV it claret, and in SDTV - it scarlet.
> 
> I will not understand (explain) - if original colour space of initial signal SDTV WHAT FOR it to transform in HDTV? In what sense?



3. I have noticed, that the signal with STB goes YPbPr (not YÑbÑr). Perhaps therefore I have a displacement of red colour in area of the claret?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/15266290
> 
> 
> What if any are you folks using for IPOD connections to your Anthem?
> 
> 
> I just bought my wife a 4G NANO for xmas and was looking for ways to connect this to my AVM50 found a DENON dock for $250.. ouch more then what I paid for the damn nano.
> 
> 
> Any suggestion/ideas?



Trevlan,

I hooked my ipod nano through an ipod dock using two analog cables into the CD input of my AVM 50. Told anthem to do AnalogDSP to digitize signal and then ARC can do it's magic







Sounds much better than straight analog. This was suggested to me by Bob and it works beautifully. Someone tried to sell me a Denon dock for $160 or an ARCAM one for $450







I thought they were kidding.

John


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Ok here's something I can't figure out. In the manual section 3-3.7 mode set ups. I'm working on setting up both my PS3 and my Satellite receiver. The PS3 is set to output LPCM and the Satellite is set to output PCM.


A is 6.0:

B is 2.0:

C is 2Sur:

And so on


I set up the PS3 A) 6.0 as (PCM) THX Ultra 2. I'll change that none after I run ARC. I set up B) as 2.0 Anthem Logic stereo.


My understanding is when I'm watching a movie using the PS3 I'll select A 6.0 PCM 5.1. When I'm listening to music streamed to the PS3 off my computer I'd select B Anthem Logic stereo. The problem is I don't know how to change it from A) 6.0 to B) 2.0. Does it do it automatically?


Same thing goes for the satellite. I thought I'd have two set ups. One for Dolby Digital feeds off the HD channels and one for Prologic feeds off SD channels.


How to I select the different available presets?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15270860
> 
> 
> Ok here's something I can't figure out. In the manual section 3-3.7 mode set ups. I'm working on setting up both my PS3 and my Satellite receiver. The PS3 is set to output LPCM and the Satellite is set to output PCM.
> 
> 
> A is 6.0:
> 
> B is 2.0:
> 
> C is 2Sur:
> 
> And so on
> 
> 
> I set up the PS3 A) 6.0 as (PCM) THX Ultra 2. I'll change that none after I run ARC. I set up B) as 2.0 Anthem Logic stereo.
> 
> 
> My understanding is when I'm watching a movie using the PS3 I'll select A 6.0 PCM 5.1. When I'm listening to music streamed to the PS3 off my computer I'd select B Anthem Logic stereo. The problem is I don't know how to change it from A) 6.0 to B) 2.0. Does it do it automatically?
> 
> 
> Same thing goes for the satellite. I thought I'd have two set ups. One for Dolby Digital feeds off the HD channels and one for Prologic feeds off SD channels.
> 
> 
> How to I select the different available presets?



First, it is correct to set the PS3 to output LPCM (by the way LPCM = PCM for all home theater devices of interest here -- it's just become cooler to say "LPCM" these days probably due to the mistaken belief that the "L" stands for "lossless" -- it doesn't; it stands for "linear"). Set that way, the PS3 decodes everything to high bandwidth, multi-channel LPCM, which is what you want.


But if you are using HDMI audio or Optical Digital audio from your satellite box, then you probably want to set the satellite box to output "bitstream". This means the satellite box can send traditional (lossy) DD5.1 bitstreams to the Anthem when you are viewing programs with DD5.1 audio. If you set the satellite box to PCM you will only get a 2 channel stereo down-mix from such programs.


--------------------------------------------------


Next you need to understand that the audio modes available at any given moment depend upon the type of incoming audio signal, your speaker configuration, and whether or not you have THX post-processing turned on.


If you look at the list of audio modes in section 4.8 of the Manual you will see that some of them are specific to how the rear channels get audio if you play 2.0 or 5.1 channel input into a 7.1 speaker setup. This means, if you don't HAVE a 7.1 speaker setup, those modes won't be available.


Other modes have to do with raising 2.0 channel input (specifically) to a higher number of speakers per output. So if you are currently listening to 5.1 channel input then THOSE modes also won't be available.


And finally, some modes are not available if THX post-processing is turned on. For example, the "Mono-Academy" mode is not available when THX is turned on because THX and Mono-Academy provide two different approaches to how treble is "re-equalized" to extract the extra treble bias built into the audio track.


So if you are playing 5.1 channel input into a 5.1 speaker setup YOU WILL HAVE NO AUDIO MODE CHOICES! Your only choice will be whether or not the THX features are engaged. Why? Well you are listening to 5.1 channel input so the audio modes that act to raise 2.0 channel input have no work to do, and you don't have a 7.1 speaker setup so the audio modes that raise 5.1 channel input also have no work to do.


Now what's confusing here is that the Setup > Mode Presets will allow you to specify "default" audio modes that don't actually apply to your configuration. For example you can set up "default" audio modes to use for multi-channel input even if the source device in question is only able to send you stereo. And you can set up modes for 7.1 speaker output even though you only have 5.1 speakers configured. When you actually play the source "the right thing happens", but it can be a bit confusing when you look through the options offered in Mode Presets and then don't ever see them come up when you are actually playing stuff.


The Setup > Mode Presets menu allows you to set the default audio mode for each type of audio input for each source device. While playing a source you can also change the audio mode on the fly using the remote. But again if you are playing something like 5.1 input into 5.1 speakers you will have no surround audio mode choices since there's no work for the Anthem to do. Your only choice will be whether or not THX post-processing is turned on.


One thing that particularly worries folks is that they can't get to modes like THX Games mode when playing 5.1 channel input into a 5.1 speaker configuration. It helps to keep in mind that the only thing different THX Games will do compared to say THX Music when playing 5.1 channel input is change what gets sent to the REAR speakers in a 7.1 speaker setup. If you don't have 7.1 speakers there's no difference between these modes for the 5.1 speakers you do have -- so these audio modes just don't exist!


It helps to not worry too much about the Mode Presets to begin with. Play content and see what modes exist for each audio input type using the remote control. Again with 5.1 content and 5.1 speakers there will be no choices because there are no rear speakers that need audio steered to them. Try the different audio modes you can get to with the remote and see which ones you like. This is all personal preference by the way -- there is no obvious "right" answer. When you figure out what modes you are frequently using with certain types of content from certain sources, then set those up in Mode Presets to make it easier when you switch sources or switch types of content from a given source.


Currently I am using:


1) For 2 channel music content: Stereo Mode. I also have my Music speaker configuration set up with my surrounds but with no center speaker. This means I can change to a surround mode (such as PLIIx-Music) on the fly and engage my surround speakers, but will still have good stereo sound staging in front because the center speaker is not configured. However in my default "Stereo" mode the surrounds and center are never used anyway. I do use my subwoofer for music. And I have any analog music sources set to ANALOG-DSP in Setup > Source Setup so that ARC can function with them.


2) For 2 channel video: Anthem Cinema for normal TV programs and PLIIx-Movie for movie programs. Wait, that's 2 choices! How do I do that? Well for my cable TV box I have the Mode Presets for 2 channel audio input set to Anthem Cinema, and I manually switch to PLIIx-Movie if I tune in a movie. And for my DVD player I have 2 channel audio input (as from old movies) set to PLIIx-Movie, since I'm almost always watching movie discs. But if I do happen to play a disc with a TV program on it, then I manually change to Anthem Cinema.


NOTE 1: When playing old, mono movies (usually from the black & white era), which may come in as true mono or as stereo with the same content in the L and R channels, it is often better to switch to Mono-Academy mode to have the Anthem remove the excessive treble boost originally built into those audio tracks to account both for theater acoustics and for the fact that the theater speakers were placed behind the rather thick screen cloths they used back then. But some older movies on disc or broadcast on TV have already been "re-equalized" for modern home theaters (and you don't want to do it twice or the audio will sound too dull) so you have to decide on the fly whether Mono-Academy sounds better. Note that using Mono-Academy means no audio from your surround speakers. If you prefer, try using PLIIx-Cinema with THX "re-equalization" turned on (which can be done separately from whether the REST of the THX post-processing features are turned on). That doesn't remove quite as much treble bias as Mono Academy, but in return you do get some sound steered to the surround speakers.


NOTE 2: I used to use THX post processing with PLIIx-Movie, but now that I have ARC set up I don't use THX at all. I find ARC makes the surround speakers sound so sweet I don't want any of the THX processing affecting those.


3) For multi-channel content input I use no audio mode processing at all! Why? Because I have a 5.1 speaker setup and no processing modes exist (again, because there is no work for them to do!). This applies to both the 6 channel LPCM from my PS3 and DD5.1 and DTS multi-channel from discs and HDTV programs. Again, I'm no longer using THX now that I have ARC set up.


--------------------------------------------


If you have a 7.1 speaker setup then you will have more choices to play with, but again this is all personal preference. Read section 4.8 in the Manual to learn what the various audio surround modes do and then take a listen.


For 2.0 channel input, keep in mind that the "ProLogic" modes are the older, now obsolete surround modes just included for completeness in case anyone out there wants to take a trip down memory lane. The PLIIx modes are the modern processing modes that should be used instead of "ProLogic".


What do you do for the Setup > Mode Preset lines that don't apply to your configuration such as the multi-channel input lines for a stereo-only source or the multi-channel input lines when you only have 5.1 speakers? It really doesn't matter. But for simplicity, pick something common like PLIIx-Movie. When you are actually playing stuff, if you find the audio mode is coming up as something different than what you want -- i.e., you find you need to change it using the remote -- THEN go back into Mode Presets, find the offending line, and change the "default" to whatever is more convenient for you.


One last confusion: Note the lines in section 4.8 of the manual that state that if you turn on THX post processing then the text used to display the current mode choice will change. For example, if you turn on THX post processing when using Anthem Cinema mode, then it will ALSO switch you to PLIIx-Movie with THX. So when checking for proper function of your Mode Presets, try turning THX off temporarily as necessary.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ibg5* /forum/post/15270516
> 
> 
> Bob, I have ordered DVE. Deliver approximately in a month. Then I will try.
> 
> Still questions:
> 
> 1. Pioneer PDP - LX6090 it is established in a mode dot-for-dot mode. Thus the screen is filled not completely. At the left - on 1 inch, and on the right - on 1,5 inches. I am afraid, that pixels will non-uniformly grow old. At switching in a mode Scale the image fills the screen completely. I somewhere read, that it is an old problem. I can not find a source. Do not prompt, why such effect?
> 
> 
> 2. In a mode 1080p at slow moving of the chamber the image twitches (stroboscope). In a mode 1080i such effect is not present.
> 
> 
> 3. I have noticed, that the signal with STB goes YPbPr (not YÑbÑr). Perhaps therefore I have a displacement of red colour in area of the claret?



1) I can't help you with the settings for your Pioneer display. It would be best to ask in the appropriate display forum thread here. But a 1 inch and 1.5 inch unused strip on either side when using dot-for-dot mode certainly sounds wrong to me.


2) Stuttering when using 1080p most often is due to using 1080p/24 when you shouldn't. 1080p/24 output from the Anthem should only be used when the source content itself is 1080p/24 (i.e., it is "film-based" frame rate content that is being sent to the Anthem as 1080p/24 as from a Blu-Ray player). Attempting to play "video based" frame rate content at 1080p/24 will always give you stuttering since there is no good way to convert real 1080p/60 video based content to 1080p/24 -- i.e., no way to decide which frames to throw away. And the Anthem does not properly convert film-based 1080i/60 or 1080p/60 content to 1080p/24 output so you can't even use 1080p/24 output for those. You can either set up two different Video Output configurations (one for 1080p/60 and one for 1080p/24), or you can use the Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock = Auto setting with a given source to have the Anthem match the output video frame rate to what's currently coming in on the input.


3) YPbPr and YCbCr are basically the same thing, and the terms are often (mistakenly) used interchangeably. Correctly, YPbPr refers to an analog video signal (e.g., Component video) and YCbCr refers to a digital video signal (e.g., HDMI). It is common for cable and satellite boxes to use the term YPbPr to refer to both. But that doesn't change what comes in over HDMI for example. However, if you are using a mix of Component and HDMI video sources, keep in mind that there is no particular reason why the best video input level settings (Video Source Adjust > Picture) for HDMI sources should be the same as the best settings for Component sources. You need to calibrate each source separately.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/15270462
> 
> 
> I know what shielded means, I'm just wondering if shielding is normally good enough to prevent interference issues with close by sensitive electronics like the D2.



Magnetic fields from speakers don't affect home theater electronics. For example, you can put an unshielded speaker up near a plasma display with no untoward effects due to stray magnetism.


Magnetic fields DO affect the deflection circuitry use by CRT-style displays, and that's why you need to keep unshielded magnets away from a CRT to keep the stray magnetism from magnetizing the portions of the TV near the speaker and thus distorting the picture.


However, putting a speaker too close to electronics will also cause vibration in the electronics and that CAN damage the electronics. Obviously this depends on the details of volume and placement, but if there is a shelf in between and you have enough air gap above the D2 for it to vent its heat, then you are probably OK.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/15269233
> 
> 
> Bob, I first would like to thank you very much for taking the time to review my Arc Charts and I am going to try your recommendations over the next week or two. I will update here soon with my results.
> 
> 
> On the Video side I have a question on a problem playing Blu-Ray vs Std DVD Movies with my PS3. I Calibrated my Sony VPL-VW40 Projector for the Blu-ray movies (1080P) to fit the Picture width for my 100" HD screen size. The problem is when I go to watch a Std DVD movie the picture does not reach the full width of the screen, it comes up short on the right side and if I calibrate the projector for Std DVD's the Blu-ray runs off the right side of the screen.
> 
> 
> Is there a way to correct this using the D2 scaler? or a setting in the PS3? Has anyone else experienced this?



Bring up the test charts internally generated in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust > Patterns). Do these fill your screen? If so, the output side of the Anthem and the settings in your display are working correctly. You should not be altering anything in the output side of the Anthem or in the settings in your display when you switch between input sources. For example, I presume you are sending 1080p to your projector when watching Blu-Ray and you should STILL be sending 1080p to your projector when watching SD-DVD.


Presuming that's correct, then the problem is on the input side of things.


I can't think of any settings mistakes you might have made either in the PS3 or in the input settings in the Anthem that would cause this image shift on just one side. You may have a faulty PS3. But first review the first post of the AVS PS3 FAQ thread to see if you can spot something you haven't set up correctly:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1019115 


Compare SD-DVD from the PS3 with some other SD source device to see if it is just your PS3.


The PS3 does not normally shift SD-DVD content the way you describe. You may need to call Sony for service.


Use a calibration disc to test your geometry, not a movie. Some movies, for example, are DESIGNED to have small pillar box bars on either side.


Are you sure the problem is happening only on one side?

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Thanks Bob,


I'm going to try to not pester you. I'll do my best to figure stuff out but that one had me stumped. Still I'm glad I asked because I had no idea I was to set the Sat audio out to bitstream when using HDMI???


As far as the rest of your responce... over my head but I'm at work now so that's ok. My speaker set up is 5.1 so I'll concentrate on that area. I find it much easier to sit down with my laptop and sift through what you're talking about step by step actually looking at the menues you're talking about than just reading it through.


I read it through and I'm left thinking what?


----------



## jayray

Did a remeasurement of 1.2.13 and the gain for music is now where it was the first time. Everything looks good and at 20K graphs look better than 12K with 1.2.12. Will test it tonight.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's actually a lot easier than it looks. Even easier for you since you only have a 5.1 speaker setup.


Just play with the audio modes using the remote while listening to stuff, and worry about the best settings in Setup > Mode Presets after you get more familiar with what's available and what you like.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15273812
> 
> 
> Did a remeasurement of 1.2.13 and the gain for music is now where it was the first time. Everything looks good and at 20K graphs look better than 12K with 1.2.12. Will test it tonight.
> 
> John



Did you do anything different this time, such as zeroing out the Setup > Speaker Calibration volume trims (other than Noise Level)?

--Bob


----------



## jclem

Hey folks, I realize the major focus in this thread lately is ARC and V2. But I wondered if some of you could help me out in another area. I have an AVM50 (might get a D2), a Sony VW100 pj, Panny bd55 and Tosh xa2. I would like to get a 2.35 screen for dvd movies primarily, but don't want to pony up the $thousands$ for an anamorphic lens. I'll probably keep my 16x9, 88" diagonal screen for TV, etc and have a 2 screen setup.

Some of the threads I read talked about using a processor like Lumagen or DVDO to do this, but isn't it possible to make adjustments in the Anthem (and maybe the PJ and dvd players too) to zoom, shrink, crop, etc to make this happen? I looked through the manual and tried monkeying around last night for several hours but didn't make any headway.

Can someone help me out here, at least give me a head start, 'cuz I'm really confused? Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/15274865
> 
> 
> Hey folks, I realize the major focus in this thread lately is ARC and V2. But I wondered if some of you could help me out in another area. I have an AVM50 (might get a D2), a Sony VW100 pj, Panny bd55 and Tosh xa2. I would like to get a 2.35 screen for dvd movies primarily, but don't want to pony up the $thousands$ for an anamorphic lens. I'll probably keep my 16x9, 88" diagonal screen for TV, etc and have a 2 screen setup.
> 
> Some of the threads I read talked about using a processor like Lumagen or DVDO to do this, but isn't it possible to make adjustments in the Anthem (and maybe the PJ and dvd players too) to zoom, shrink, crop, etc to make this happen? I looked through the manual and tried monkeying around last night for several hours but didn't make any headway.
> 
> Can someone help me out here, at least give me a head start, 'cuz I'm really confused? Thanks



If you don't want to use an anamorphic lens you will need to feed the projector 2.35 (perhaps with letter box bars top and bottom) and then adjust the projector to fill the screen with that. Depending upon your projector this may be more or less easy. For example, the projector may very well not accept true 2.35 input. It might insist on normal 16:9 (1.78) input with letter box bars padding the 2.35 movie top and bottom to the 1.78 shape. And adjusting the vertical and horizontal spread of the projection beam to fill your new 2.35 screen may require physical adjustments in the projector rather than something you can do with just settings in the projector. This is only a problem if you want to switch that same projector to doing normal 16:9 stuff on a normal screen (or a subset of your 2.35 screen) as opposed to just leaving it as your 2.35 projector.


---------------------------------------------------


What the anamorphic lens allows you to do is to feed a 16:9 image to your projector, which the special, anamorphic lens then optically widens out to 2.35. For that to work you need the Anthem to extract the 2.35 movie from the input video stream and stretch it vertically to fill a 16:9 shape. This is easy to do, and the details are in the "Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling" portion of the collection of post links you'll find in the first post of this thread. When viewing a 2.35 movie the Anthem discards the letter boxes top and bottom that come in with the input video, and stretches the remaining 2.35 video uniformly in the vertical direction to fill the 16:9 shape (which distorts the image -- circles now look like tall ovals). The anamorphic lens now optically widens that 16:9 input just enough to restore it to a 2.35 shape that fills your screen to all 4 edges (which also eliminates the vertical stretch distortion).


When you want to view normal 16:9 content, you switch to not using the Custom Cropping (with vertical stretch) in the Anthem and you replace the anamorphic lens in your projector with a normal lens. Some anamorphic lenses make this easier to do than others. The result is a 16:9 image without distortion that fills your 2.35 screen top to bottom but does not fill the 2.35 screen left to right.


---------------------------------------------------------


Back to not using an anamorphic lens:


If your projector really can accept true 2.35 video input, then you can set up a Video Output configuration in the Anthem to output that resolution. This is a non-standard video resolution so you will likely have to set it up as a Custom Video Resolution that you load into the Anthem using Anthem's Live Video Settings Editor application on Windows. Meanwhile you would still need to Crop the 2.35 input video to extract the movie and discard the letter box bars top and bottom that come in with the movie from your source device (which will be a 16:9 video stream). In the unlikely event you actually can set up your projector this way, then you can avoid using an anamorphic lens. To view normal 16:9 content you switch the Anthem to an alternate, normal, 16:9 Video Output configuration and turn off the Custom Cropping.


More likely you will find that your projector can not accept a true 2.35 shaped input video resolution. In that case your only choice (if you don't want to use an anamorphic lens) is to feed the normal 16:9 video stream to your projector -- the same shape of video that comes out of your source device, complete with letter box bars top and bottom -- and then adjust the vertical and horizontal spread on your projector to fill your 2.35 screen. The letter box bars would then be projected off the screen to the top and bottom.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15273211
> 
> 
> Magnetic fields from speakers don't affect home theater electronics. For example, you can put an unshielded speaker up near a plasma display with no untoward effects due to stray magnetism.
> 
> 
> Magnetic fields DO affect the deflection circuitry use by CRT-style displays, and that's why you need to keep unshielded magnets away from a CRT to keep the stray magnetism from magnetizing the portions of the TV near the speaker and thus distorting the picture.
> 
> 
> However, putting a speaker too close to electronics will also cause vibration in the electronics and that CAN damage the electronics. Obviously this depends on the details of volume and placement, but if there is a shelf in between and you have enough air gap above the D2 for it to vent its heat, then you are probably OK.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you for the usual detailed and informative answer, you have put me at ease once again!


Mike


----------



## jclem

Bob,

Thanks very much for your detailed answer. It's not that I don't want to use an A lens, it's just that the cost is so high!! It's more than the cost to upgrade to a D2 with arc or 50v2, which I would rather do with that money.

So, with an A lens out of the picture and assuming that my PJ can't accept true 2.35, you are saying that the Anthem can't help at all and I have to try to do it all with the Sony PJ?

One more question: Am I wrong in thinking that a Lumagen or DVDO can do what I want to do?

Thanks again.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15258147
> 
> 
> OMG!
> 
> 
> OMG!
> 
> 
> OMG!
> 
> 
> Big news boys. I picked up my D2 today.
> 
> 
> I opened the accessories box and I found this surprise!
> 
> 
> Remember what I paid for my D2!!!
> 
> *Anthem Statement!
> 
> Future Proof your D2!
> 
> For a limited time you can upgrade your D2 to the next generation D2V (coming soon!) for 1/2 price.
> 
> 
> Ask your Dealer for details.
> 
> 
> Offer Valid for 12 months from date of purchase.*
> 
> 
> 
> D2V2 for under 6K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go and get your D2 NOW!



Does anyone know if this deal is available to current owners of the D2/AVM50 also, or just for recently sold units due to the nearing release of the v2's?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/15276147
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks very much for your detailed answer. It's not that I don't want to use an A lens, it's just that the cost is so high!! It's more than the cost to upgrade to a D2 with arc or 50v2, which I would rather do with that money.
> 
> So, with an A lens out of the picture and assuming that my PJ can't accept true 2.35, you are saying that the Anthem can't help at all and I have to try to do it all with the Sony PJ?
> 
> One more question: Am I wrong in thinking that a Lumagen or DVDO can do what I want to do?
> 
> Thanks again.



No video processor can do what you want to do. If the projector can only accept a 16:9 shape as input video resolution, and you are using a normal lens, there's nothing that can be done by whatever is feeding the projector to alter how the projector fills the screen. Just think about where each corner pixel of the 16:9 video sent to the projector is going to end up when projected. If the projector is set to illuminate the entire screen left to right then all 4 corners are going to be projected off the top or bottom of the screen. If the projector is set to illuminate the entire screen from top to bottom without losing any lines above or below then the projector can not possibly fill the 2.35 screen left to right. So all 4 corners are going to end up inwards of the left and right edges of that screen.


The best you can do is set the projector to fill the screen left to right and then only use the middle portion of the imaging from top to bottom. And that's just what happens already when you view a 2.35 movie in a 16:9 frame (as on a normal HDTV). The movie is padded top and bottom with letter box bars. In your case since your 2.35 screen is not tall enough to see all of the 16:9 image when the screen is filled left to right, then those letter box bars will be projected off the screen above and below it and the 2.35 movie will fill the screen to all 4 edges.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15276222
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if this deal is available to current owners of the D2/AVM50 also, or just for recently sold units due to the nearing release of the v2's?



Good question. Who's spoken to their friendly neighborhood Anthem dealer recently?

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15276442
> 
> 
> Good question. Who's spoken to their friendly neighborhood Anthem dealer recently?
> 
> --Bob



I called my dealer and told him about the half price deal. He said he couldn't believe he forgot to tell me. He said when he placed my order he was told about the additional promotion. He was going to bring it up when I came in to pick it up but forgot. He said it's only being offered with new D2 (and I'd assume AVM50) purchases sold before the 31 of December. At the end of the month when the factory authorised sale ends so will that promotion.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15258640
> 
> 
> There's nothing really wrong with your Measurements that might have caused that. You've got that dip at the top of your Subwoofer curve but that's not that indicative. Just by eyeball it looks like your room just happens to have very little "natural" Room Gain that ARC needs to preserve.
> 
> 
> It looks like ARC is giving you a small Room Gain, perhaps under 1dB. You might want to try raising that up yourself to see if you like the sound betted.
> 
> 
> I suggest you try around 2.5dB. Do this in the Targets window (leave the "Force" box checked), accept that change and then re-Calculate and re-Upload. No need to re-Measure. Note that you can set the Room Gain separately for Movie and Music calculations.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> ARC is trying to detect the natural Room Gain of your particular listening room so as to preserve that even as it is trying to eliminate all the other artifacts of "room response". In your case it just looks like you room doesn't have much Room Gain.
> 
> 
> Have you acoustically treated your room?
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> While you are experimenting with Room Gain, also try raising the Max EQ Frequency target out towards 15KHz or even 20KHz. Your Measurements are already good enough that I think you can push ARC to do correction all the way up there without suffering significant degradation of the Calculated lower frequencies. I think you may be able to correct essentially all of the high frequency drop-off you've Measured.
> 
> --Bob





Bob, no I have not acoustically treated the room. I currently have arc running at 15khz and I plan on trying at 20khz with and without some additional room gain.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~ohdee~* /forum/post/15276549
> 
> 
> i called my dealer and told him about the half price deal. He said he couldn't believe he forgot to tell me. He said when he placed my order he was told about the additional promotion. He was going to bring it up when i came in to pick it up but forgot. He said it's only being offered with new d2 (and i'd assume avm50) purchases sold before the 31 of december. At the end of the month when the factory authorised sale ends so will that promotion.



darn


----------



## TREVLAN

Thx John, I will look for an IPOD dock tomorrow then. The 160 for the denon sounds alot better then the 250 I was looking at. lol





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15270547
> 
> 
> Trevlan,
> 
> I hooked my ipod nano through an ipod dock using two analog cables into the CD input of my AVM 50. Told anthem to do AnalogDSP to digitize signal and then ARC can do it's magic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds much better than straight analog. This was suggested to me by Bob and it works beautifully. Someone tried to sell me a Denon dock for $160 or an ARCAM one for $450
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought they were kidding.
> 
> John


----------



## TREVLAN

bob,


here you go, running at 15000khz

they look better, I have not uploaded the new charts yet. Can this be done without remesure?


----------



## Milt99

I'm finally getting around to installing ARC 1.2.5 and doing some new measurements this weekend.

My PC has ARC version 1.1 installed, can I just install 1.2.5 over 1.1 and go from there or are there any special install procedures\\file saves I need to do.

I have the the original ARC CD on hand.

Thanks much in advance.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Hi Bob...










Ummmm any suggestions on what I should do with the settings under picture?

*Input Color Space*:Auto YCbCr, HDTV YCbCr, SDTV YCbCr, Studio or Extended RGB???


Should I be making any changes to the *Bright/Contrast/Color?*
*

Film Mode:* Auto or off?

*Detail Enhancement:* ?

*Noise Reduction:* ?
*

Motion Threshold:* ?

*Chroma Bug Filter:* Off or on?
*

Video ADC:* ???


Are there generally accepted settings or should I just play with them until it looks good?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ohdee,

Time for you to read "The Good Parts Version" of this thread -- i.e., the posts you'll find collected as links in the first post of this thread.


Start with "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs". That one is fundamental.


The Technology and Terminology posts will make YCbCr vs. RGB less mysterious.


Any items not explained there would best be left at factory defaults for now. That would include the Noise Reduction, Detail Enhancement, Film Mode, and Cue Corrections stuff. Video ADC is for analog video sources, in particular for S-video sources if you have any of those.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/15277413
> 
> 
> I'm finally getting around to installing ARC 1.2.5 and doing some new measurements this weekend.
> 
> My PC has ARC version 1.1 installed, can I just install 1.2.5 over 1.1 and go from there or are there any special install procedures\\file saves I need to do.
> 
> I have the the original ARC CD on hand.
> 
> Thanks much in advance.



First make sure you have firmware version V1.33 installed.


The following is documented in the text file that comes in the ARC install folder that you download from the Anthem site:


The V1.2.x versions of ARC install into a different folder than older versions (due to ARC becoming available for the AVM-50, the "D2" in the old folder name no longer made sense). Your two calibration and licensing files normally remain from one install to the next, but this time you will need to make sure they get over into the new install destination folder. The easiest way to do that is to first copy those two files from your original ARC install CD into the folder you downloaded from the Anthem site -- i.e., the folder that contains the Setup program you will click on to install ARC V1.2.5. Setup will then copy those 2 files to the install destination folder along with the rest of the ARC V1.2.5 installation. So find the Setup program in the stuff you downloaded (it is actually 2 folders deep), find the 2 files in question, and put a copy of the 2 files into the folder containing Setup. Then double click on Setup to begin the ARC V1.2.5 install.


The two files you want have names consisting mostly of numbers. The numbers are the serial number of your Anthem unit, combined with the serial number of the ARC microphone that came with your ARC kit.


If you forget to do this, the ARC application won't run after the install (it won't find the file that licenses your Anthem unit). Read the text file that comes in the ARC install folder you downloaded and you will find an "IMPORTANT NOTE" towards the end of it that tells you where ARC V1.2.5 just got installed. Now just copy those two files into that install destination folder itself and you will be good to go.


Again, you only have to do this once. Subsequent ARC installs will use the new install destination folder and your 2 files will be preserved. In fact they are even preserved if you UNinstall ARC (using Windows Add/Remove programs) and then re-run the installation afresh.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/15277163
> 
> 
> bob,
> 
> 
> here you go, running at 15000khz
> 
> they look better, I have not uploaded the new charts yet. Can this be done without remesure?



That all looks quite good and should sound marvelous!


Yes, just open this results file in Advanced mode and you can Upload it on top of whatever ARC stuff you currently have in the Anthem.


Afterwards, check your Setup menu to make sure things look proper and then Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture these new ARC Setup menu settings into those memories.


--------------------------------------------------


Your worst remaining defect is a little wiggle in the LF speaker around 250Hz. It is minor and you can probably just ignore it, but if you'd like, try reducing the Max EQ Frequency Target to see if that frees up the extra resources ARC needs to apply more correction there. You can easily do a set of Calculations to find the best "compromise" setting which works well at the high frequencies while still applying all the correction you want at the lower frequencies.


And remember to trust your ears. These simple charts can not capture everything that is going on. So if a particular set of results SOUNDS better to your ears then it IS better even if the charts still show some stubborn residual errors.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15276793
> 
> 
> darn



Let's see. Sell an old D2 on Audiogon. Buy a new D2 at the reduced price and order the half price D2 v.2 upgrade.


Nah. Nobody would go through that much trouble.











And of course you'd have to do it before the word got out.....

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15278366
> 
> 
> Let's see. Sell an old D2 on Audiogon. Buy a new D2 at the reduced price and order the half price D2 v.2 upgrade.
> 
> 
> Nah. Nobody would go through that much trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course you'd have to do it before the word got out.....
> 
> --Bob



Has the US$ price of the D2 v.2 upgrade been confirmed yet...part of the question is 1/2 price of what?











Mike


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15273826
> 
> 
> Did you do anything different this time, such as zeroing out the Setup > Speaker Calibration volume trims (other than Noise Level)?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Yes I did a complete re do of speaker levels as per one of you more recent posts. Tested it last night and wow! The LFE was still great but the detail was very noticeably better. I really didn't think there would be much of a difference but what a surprise, the upper end just woke up


----------



## Ed Weinman

I'm having sync problems with, so far, four SD DVD MGM musicals via my Pioneer 05 blu-ray player (video directly, via HDMI, to the tv...audio, via digital, to the D1). So far, I've tried four discs: "Meet Me In St. Louis," "Silk Stockings," "Deep In My Heart," and "The Band Wagon." They all exhibit sync problems which I do not seem to be able to correct with the D1. Oddly, other SD DVDs (of later vintage) do not have sync problems.


Any suggestions?


Thanks, in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/15280039
> 
> 
> I'm having sync problems with, so far, four SD DVD MGM musicals via my Pioneer 05 blu-ray player (video directly, via HDMI, to the tv...audio, via digital, to the D1). So far, I've tried four discs: "Meet Me In St. Louis," "Silk Stockings," "Deep In My Heart," and "The Band Wagon." They all exhibit sync problems which I do not seem to be able to correct with the D1. Oddly, other SD DVDs (of later vintage) do not have sync problems.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Thanks, in advance.



If video is ahead of audio then it is definitely a problem in the player, and there's nothing the D1 can do to help.


If video trails audio (the "normal" type of sync error) you ought to be able to get some assistance from the lip sync adjustment in the D1 (which allows you to delay the audio to get them back in sync). But again, the problem is likely in the player. This is particularly true if the amount of error seems to vary as you play the disc.


The usual suggestion for fixing sync problems in a player is to pause or even slow reverse the movie and then start it playing again.


Your player may also have a problem getting the timing right when HDMI video is used with optical digital audio. Try switching between using "source direct" and an explicit video output resolution.


I don't know why the player might be having a problem with these particular SD-DVD discs and not with others. I don't recall any reports of serious lip sync problems for SD-DVD playback from your player, but I haven't been following the player thread closed for the 05FD recently.


Some players have sync priority settings that need to be selected according to whether you are using HDMI or not. I don't know if that is true for the 05FD. Since you are only using HDMI for video, I'm also not sure which setting would be right for sync priority.


So check in the player thread, and also check in the threads for these movies in the Blu-Ray Software forum here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15279951
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Yes I did a complete re do of speaker levels as per one of you more recent posts. Tested it last night and wow! The LFE was still great but the detail was very noticeably better. I really didn't think there would be much of a difference but what a surprise, the upper end just woke up



I want to be very clear on this, as we may be on the trail of a bug.


Did you zero out the volume trims prior to doing the ARC Measurement this time as I suggested? I.e., did you zero out whatever ARC had previously put in there from its most recent Upload? Doing this SHOULD NOT MAKE A DIFFERENCE, so if it does, then we may be close to finding a bug.


Also, did you make another pass at selecting Noise Level and adjusting the internal volume knob on your subwoofer? And did you get different results this time for those from what you had previously been using? If your room and speaker setup has not changed, there should be NO DIFFERENCE here between what you find now for these and what you found earlier. If you did find a difference, that too may point to a bug.

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15281202
> 
> 
> If video is ahead of audio then it is definitely a problem in the player, and there's nothing the D1 can do to help.
> 
> 
> If video trails audio (the "normal" type of sync error) you ought to be able to get some assistance from the lip sync adjustment in the D1 (which allows you to delay the audio to get them back in sync). But again, the problem is likely in the player. This is particularly true if the amount of error seems to vary as you play the disc.
> 
> 
> The usual suggestion for fixing sync problems in a player is to pause or even slow reverse the movie and then start it playing again.
> 
> 
> Your player may also have a problem getting the timing right when HDMI video is used with optical digital audio. Try switching between using "source direct" and an explicit video output resolution.
> 
> 
> I don't know why the player might be having a problem with these particular SD-DVD discs and not with others. I don't recall any reports of serious lip sync problems for SD-DVD playback from your player, but I haven't been following the player thread closed for the 05FD recently.
> 
> 
> Some players have sync priority settings that need to be selected according to whether you are using HDMI or not. I don't know if that is true for the 05FD. Since you are only using HDMI for video, I'm also not sure which setting would be right for sync priority.
> 
> 
> So check in the player thread, and also check in the threads for these movies in the Blu-Ray Software forum here.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, again, thanks for your input. Yes, I tried the 05 discussion thread but, unfortunately, it seems that any discussion of vintage films does not get a response (at least, when I last checked that thread).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15279377
> 
> 
> Has the US$ price of the D2 v.2 upgrade been confirmed yet...part of the question is 1/2 price of what?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mike



And then there's the mystery of Canadian pricing where the unit is cheaper but the upgrade is more expensive....


I know we have some Anthem dealers following this thread. We need to have one of you guys post the current deal prices (MSRP of course) for a new D2, for an upgrade for a new D2, and for an upgrade for an old D2. If you have official D2 v.2 new unit pricing, please post that as well.


And of course if you have any news on availability dates of new D2 v.2 units or the upgrade from an original D2, we need that as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/15281315
> 
> 
> Bob, again, thanks for your input. Yes, I tried the 05 discussion thread but, unfortunately, it seems that any discussion of vintage films does not get a response (at least, when I last checked that thread).



What's the nature of your lip sync error? Video ahead of audio or video behind audio? What's the amount of error? Does it vary as you play through the movie? Does it alter if you chapter forward or chapter backward or pause and restart the movie?


Also, try changing your TV to a different input and then back to the HDMI input you are using from the player. This should force a new HDMI handshake and may clear whatever confusion is going on in the player.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ed,

Also, if you have the standard DVD version of "Digital Video Essentials" (DVE) there is an audio sync test on it -- a clock like sweep animation with a tone that should occur precisely at 12 o'clock. You can use that to verify whether the basic lip sync is correct with any setting changes you make in the player or wherever. If that's correct, then you know the problem really is specific to those SD-DVD discs, perhaps due to a problem in the player and perhaps due to faulty production of the discs.

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15281345
> 
> 
> What's the nature of your lip sync error? Video ahead of audio or video behind audio? What's the amount of error? Does it vary as you play through the movie? Does it alter if you chapter forward or chapter backward or pause and restart the movie?
> 
> 
> Also, try changing your TV to a different input and then back to the HDMI input you are using from the player. This should force a new HDMI handshake and may clear whatever confusion is going on in the player.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I'll try answering when I get home. I did see a Pioneer site info response re: sync problems which states:


1) Press Home Menu on the remote control

2) Select Initial Setup

3) Selection Options

4) Select Output Terminal Priority

5) Select tye type of audio and video being used

6) Press Home Menu on the remote control


...when I get home...


Thanks, again.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15281283
> 
> 
> I want to be very clear on this, as we may be on the trail of a bug.
> 
> 
> Did you zero out the volume trims prior to doing the ARC Measurement this time as I suggested? I.e., did you zero out whatever ARC had previously put in there from its most recent Upload? Doing this SHOULD NOT MAKE A DIFFERENCE, so if it does, then we may be close to finding a bug.
> 
> 
> Also, did you make another pass at selecting Noise Level and adjusting the internal volume knob on your subwoofer? And did you get different results this time for those from what you had previously been using? If your room and speaker setup has not changed, there should be NO DIFFERENCE here between what you find now for these and what you found earlier. If you did find a difference, that too may point to a bug.
> 
> --Bob



I am describing some changes in sound that will have resulted from the 15K to 20K. as my previous results were from my first 1.2.13 upload. I did not upload the second measurements due to the very low gain for music it produced. So this time I did the following:

1. New measurements by first zeroing out the trims and doing new Noise level measurements. Sub done by internal volume.

2. Change from 15K to 20K and upload.


Music gain now up from 0 to 2.3. Sound is more detailed with no low end changes.

Noise level was a couple of db higher from previous measurments.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15281477
> 
> 
> I am describing some changes in sound that will have resulted from the 15K to 20K. as my previous results were from my first 1.2.13 upload. I did not upload the second measurements due to the very low gain for music it produced. So this time I did the following:
> 
> 1. New measurements by first zeroing out the trims and doing new Noise level measurements. Sub done by internal volume.
> 
> 2. Change from 15K to 20K and upload.
> 
> 
> Music gain now up from 0 to 2.3. Sound is more detailed with no low end changes.
> 
> Noise level was a couple of db higher from previous measurments.
> 
> John



This is a very interesting result. I suggest you email to Nick that zeroing out the volume trims prior to doing the Measurement may have produced better results than leaving them as they were from the prior ARC Upload.


ARC is supposed to zero out those volume trims itself during the initialization it does prior to beginning the Measurement test sweep tones. I wonder if that's not being done correctly in V1.2.13? Or possibly the bug related to the interaction between the current LF volume trim and the Noise Level setting is the culprit.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

sent Nick the details of our conversation. He did say to me yesterday that the next version may take a little while given the priority of the V2.

John


----------



## buckley44

after reading all the info that bob has been leaving about the proper steps on setting up the arc, my graphs are not looking very good. i took his advice on setting the volumes in the speaker calibration i also set the max eq at 15000 which brought the measurments alot better. when i upload those in the advance mode i assume all i have to do is hit upload right, because when i went into d2 menue everything looks the same as previous measurements did. i just took my last measurements and changed the eq to 15000 and uploaded. by doing this what did it change in the d2, besides making my graph look better on my pc. sorry im not very knowledgeable on all of this, im just learning from all your imput. thank you...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15284056
> 
> 
> after reading all the info that bob has been leaving about the proper steps on setting up the arc, my graphs are not looking very good. i took his advice on setting the volumes in the speaker calibration i also set the max eq at 15000 which brought the measurments alot better. when i upload those in the advance mode i assume all i have to do is hit upload right, because when i went into d2 menue everything looks the same as previous measurements did. i just took my last measurements and changed the eq to 15000 and uploaded. by doing this what did it change in the d2, besides making my graph look better on my pc. sorry im not very knowledgeable on all of this, im just learning from all your imput. thank you...



Most of what ARC Uploads to the D2 is not visible in the Setup menu, nor is it captured in the Saved User and/or Installer Settings. It is a separate data set of Room Correction parameters that are the basis of the ARC processing.


ARC's processing is also dependent upon proper setting of the crossovers and the speaker volume trims and these ARE found in the Setup menu. ARC calculates the proper values for those and sets them in Setup when you do an Upload. Saving those Uploaded values to Saved User and/or Installer Settings eliminates the chance that you might accidentally undo those Uploaded values later if you decide to Reload Saved User or Installer Settings.


The audio results when using ARC are also dependent upon proper setting of the speaker distances (Setup > Listener Position) and the Phase/Polarity for the subwoofer (Setup > Speaker Configuration > Bass Management). ARC does NOT set or alter those when you do an Upload. You need to set those manually.


Now when you change just the Max EQ Frequency Target value and then re-Calculate and re-Upload, usually nothing changes in the crossovers or speaker gains ARC will want to use. So as far as what you can see in the Setup menu there is no change.


Not to worry, however, the important stuff -- the newer Room Correction parameters -- really did get Uploaded and are in there ready to make your audio sound wonderful.


NOTE 1: The Room EQ = On/Off parameter in Setup > Source Setup selects whether ARC's Room Correction parameters are used for that source. The crossovers and speaker gains currently in the Setup menu (the ones ARC Uploaded) are used regardless. Room EQ = ON also disables the older EQ features built into the D2 that predate ARC -- specifically the Room Resonance Filter, the Center Speaker EQ, and the subwoofer THX Ultra 2 and Boundary Gain settings.


NOTE 2: Unlike the stuff in the Setup menu and the Video Source Adjust menu, the most recent set of Room Correction parameters Uploaded for ARC remains in place even if you Reload an older set of Saved User or Installer Settings. Even if you Reload Factory Defaults. If you ever have a need to really remove the ARC Room Correction parameters from the D2's memory (something that shouldn't be necessary unless you are debugging some problem), the way to do it is to run the ARC application in Advanced mode and click on the Erase button. So to fully restore the D2 to factory new state, you would need to both do a Reload Factory Defaults from the Setup menu and an "Erase" from the ARC application.


-------------------------------------------


By the way, if you post your charts and Targets window here we can take a look and make comments.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

bob i dont have to set the crossovers before running arc because arc will set the proper settings after running the program right?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15284306
> 
> 
> bob i dont have to set the crossovers before running arc because arc will set the proper settings after running the program right?



Correct.


ARC ignores whatever is currently in the crossover settings when it is doing its Measurements, and replaces them with newly Calculated crossovers when you do an Upload.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

Bob, I have the pictures saved in Word, how do I attach the file?


----------



## buckley44

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
Correct.


ARC ignores whatever is currently in the crossover settings when it is doing its Measurements, and replaces them with newly Calculated crossovers when you do an Upload.

--Bob
Here are the pictures of my acr graphs. we figures how to post images...thx

 

arc pictures.doc 432k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15285102
> 
> 
> Here are the pictures of my acr graphs. we figures how to post images...thx



What you've got right now looks very good considering the amount of correction ARC had to do. It should sound wonderful compared to your uncorrected setup.


Your subwoofer is good down to about 25Hz. This is certainly acceptable. There are subs that go deeper and if you switch to one of those you might gain reasonably solid subsonics down to say 16Hz, but 25Hz is no slouch. If you put your sub closer to a wall or corner you may get the benefit of some Boundary Gain for the lowest frequencies, and that might get you a few Hz more of low bass goodness.


Your LF/RF speakers are showing a classic example of a "room resonance" near 50Hz, and a somewhat muddier example of a "room null" near 150Hz. ARC has tamed both of those exceptionally well. The Center speaker is picking up on the resonance near and above 50Hz as well, and once again ARC has tamed that. The high frequencies for those speakers seems to be responding well to the 15KHz Target you are using -- no problems worth worrying about. You've got some 2dB residual errors here and there which are really ignorable compared to what's being corrected out. If you were to go through the effort of treating your room to get rid of the room resonance and room null then ARC would have less work to do and it might flatten those other little blips a bit more as well, but that's a lot of work for a tiny additional gain.


Your Side and Rear Surrounds are also responding very well to correction even though your Measurements must have been something of a challenge for ARC. The broad room null near 150Hz seems to be the biggest challenge, but ARC appears to have tamed it. You've got a bit more oscillation in the Calculated curves near 15KHz than I'd like to see -- undoubtedly ARC is having a hard time allocating resources to everything that needs to be fixed, and of course the Measured curves for your Side Surrounds fall off a cliff up there.


The values ARC has chosen for your Targets all look reasonable to me.


Reconsider how you have mounted and pointed your Side Surround speakers. Keep in mind that the vertical dispersion of high frequencies is likely to be a lot less uniform than the horizontal dispersion so mounting height and vertical pointing towards seated ear position can make a significant difference. While you are at it, take another look at how all of your speakers are pointed. The LF/RF speakers should have some "toe-in" towards the central seating position, but not so much that they are pointing right at it for example. Generally I go for about 1/3 of the way swung in from perpendicular towards the center seating spot. If you change the mounting, positioning, or pointing of any speakers (particularly the subwoofer -- even inches matter ) you will need to re-Measure.


Without re-Measuring, you can also do some experimental Calculations with varying Max EQ Frequency Targets. I suggest you try doing Calculations using Targets in the range from 10KHz to 20KHz. What you are looking for is a sweet spot where you get "enough" high frequency correction but without too much in the way of additional wiggles at the lower frequencies. When you find the setting that seems to produce the best "compromise" Calculated curves, give it an Upload and a listen. Trust your ears. What sounds better to you IS better, even if the chart curves are not quite so pretty.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

As always Bob, thanks for your explanation and I apologize since I haven't unzipped the ARC file yet and RTFM


----------



## ~Ohdee~

You guys are killing me here! The more I read the more lost I seem to get? I'm going to Run Arc tomorrow. Is there any chance I can just run Arc and it'll just sound great? I still don't have a clue as to what to do with my sub? I'll have to just run and see what happens. You guys are talking about changing something from 15 to 20 k? I have no idea what you guys are talking about.


My audio output when watching Bluray is 24/192khz. Is that what I want?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15285900
> 
> 
> You guys are killing me here! The more I read the more lost I seem to get? I'm going to Run Arc tomorrow. Is there any chance I can just run Arc and it'll just sound great? I still don't have a clue as to what to do with my sub? I'll have to just run and see what happens. You guys are talking about changing something from 15 to 20 k? I have no idea what you guys are talking about.
> 
> 
> My audio output when watching Bluray is 24/192khz. Is that what I want?



Your audio output is fine.


The ARC stuff is not so mysterious. You'll get the hang of it pretty fast.


When ARC is done taking its Measurements, it makes a preliminary analysis of the data and chooses "Target" parameters for how the speakers can best work together. When you view the ARC charts (i.e., while running ARC in Advanced mode), you'll see three curves on the charts for each speaker. A Red curve representing the average of the Measurements for that speaker over all mic positions, a Dashed curve representing the Target curve ARC thinks would be ideal for that speaker, and, after you do a Calculation, a Green curve showing what ARC thinks it has achieved with the Room Correction parameters it wants to Upload to your D2.


The Target curve is determined by ARC's choice of crossovers and basic speaker levels and the amount of desirable Room Gain ARC has detected in your room and which it will try to preserve. The Room Gain appears on the charts as the hump in the Target curves near the crossover frequencies.


All of these choices made by ARC can be viewed by bringing up the Targets window. Generally it is best not to fiddle with ARC's choices.


But there is another parameter in the Targets window -- the Max EQ Frequency Target -- which tells ARC where to stop trying to correct things. By default it is set at 5KHz. ARC doesn't try to correct things above that point. The reason is that some people will have so much directionality in the treble response from their speakers that the different mic positions will pick up differences in the high frequencies which are just due to that speaker directionality. But ARC can't know that. It will see such differences as room problems and try to eliminate them. So by default ARC doesn't try to correct up that high.


However, the default appears to be set more conservatively than it needs to be for many people. So folks have found they can raise that Max EQ Frequency Target up closer to its maximum value of 20KHz and get good results.


------------------------------------------


ARC has to do its audio processing in real time while you listen, and so there is only so much work it can do. If your Measured values require a lot of correction, ARC may not have enough resources to apply correction all the way up to 20KHz. On the charts this shows up as increasing errors (differences between the desired Target curve and the actual Calculated curve) at lower frequencies that only begin to appear when you tell ARC to also do correction at the higher frequencies.


It is almost trivial in ARC to change the Max EQ Frequency value and do a new Calculation to see how the charts change. Doing that you can see how far up you can push ARC without causing the lower frequency results to degrade.


When you have a set of Calculated curves you like, you Upload the results to the D2 and give them a listen. That's the real test. If it sounds good then great! If you are bothered by some harshness in the highest frequencies try re-Calculating at a lower frequency limit and Upload those results. ARC may be getting confused by speaker directionality in your setup at the highest frequencies.


Note that you don't have to re-Measure to do this. Just re-Calculate and re-Upload. That's fast and easy. Then do some listening to see if you like the new results better.


-------------------------------------------------


The ARC charts can also help you realize that you have problems with your speakers -- either physical faults in some speaker or things more related to how the speakers are positioned and pointed.


For example, we've had several people here who discovered from their ARC charts that one of their speakers had blown a driver! They'd been using the broken speaker without even realizing it was broken. Since a poster by the name of Richard was the first one to realize this, we've come to call this "Richard Syndrome".










Other folks have discovered their subwoofer didn't have quite as much oomph as they thought it had.


So go ahead and post your ARC charts here when you get things set up, and we'll help you figure out what's working and what might improve with adjustment.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

Bob, thank you for taking the time too look at my charts and helping people that are not as much up to speed as others, im learning by reading your posts.

Yes my room is not the best right now, i plan on doing rm treatments in the future. My FL and FR speakers are towed in a bit and my side surrounds are mounted well above ear height because of room limations,and my rears are slightly towed in,my center is beneath my tv under a stand.all because of room.

i just looked at my specs for my sub. cut off at 10 hz and35hz to150hz range

my set up is:

Anthem D2

Paradigm signature 8's fronts

signature c5 center

signature adp dipole for surrounds

signature s4 for rears.direct

signature servo sub 18"

classe mono blocks cam 400's for my fronts - my 2 channel amps for the time being.

p5 for my surrounds and center

ps3 for blu ray

oppo for dvd upconverting

motarola hd and dvr

mostly kimber and audio quest cables


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I'm preparing to run ARC. My ears are about 24 inches off the seat if the couch. I have leather furniture and the the closest I can get the mic is about 28 inches off the seat. Should I take the measurements with the couch where it always sits and mic four or five inches high or should I set the mic stand on the floor right in front of the couch and the height exact?


I could also move the couch back a foot and a half and get the mic dead on where I'll be sitting???


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I suggest you leave the couch where it is.


I replaced the mic stand that Anthem ships with ARC with a $30 boom-arm mic stand that could be set to reach over the arm or back of the chair to get the mic to the right place:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...icrophone.html 


This works great and folds up for easy storage. The plastic mic clip at the end of the Anthem stand screws on to the end of the boom arm of the boom stand.


-------------------------------------------


However, before I got that, what I did was to unscrew the Anthem stand's pole from the base and rest the pole at an angle on the seat cushions so that the mic clip was resting against the seat back with the mic tip above the seat back. It was a bit time consuming to set up for each mic position, but it worked OK.


You are probably also fine setting the Anthem stand on the floor just in front of the seat with the mic at the correct height.

--bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15289743
> 
> 
> I suggest you leave the couch where it is.
> 
> 
> I replaced the mic stand that Anthem ships with ARC with a $30 boom-arm mic stand that could be set to reach over the arm or back of the chair to get the mic to the right place:
> 
> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...icrophone.html
> 
> 
> This works great and folds up for easy storage. The plastic mic clip at the end of the Anthem stand screws on to the end of the boom arm of the boom stand.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> However, before I got that, what I did was to unscrew the Anthem stand's pole from the base and rest the pole at an angle on the seat cushions so that the mic clip was resting against the seat back with the mic tip above the seat back. It was a bit time consuming to set up for each mic position, but it worked OK.
> 
> 
> You are probably also fine setting the Anthem stand on the floor just in front of the seat with the mic at the correct height.
> 
> --bob



Thanks Bob. I can just set the base of the floor (on an angle) and adjust the pole to get the mic perfect to where my ears are. Then I just adjust the mic so it is straight up.


The mic ends up right beside my ear!


Duh.. so easy yet I never even considered it.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

OK getting close now...


Sub Paradigm Servo 15v2 hooked up via balanced XLR.


Setting prior to ARC: Phase Alignment 0, Sub cut off frequency 35htz-150htz set in middle, base contour 0db to +6db set in middle and sub level -70 to 0 set just below the thee quarter point.


Do you see any obvious errors?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15290062
> 
> 
> OK getting close now...
> 
> 
> Sub Paradigm Servo 15v2 hooked up via balanced XLR.
> 
> 
> Setting prior to ARC: Phase Alignment 0, Sub cut off frequency 35htz-150htz set in middle, base contour 0db to +6db set in middle and sub level -70 to 0 set just below the thee quarter point.
> 
> 
> Do you see any obvious errors?



Yes. You want to let your D2 do all of the crossover processing. That means you have to disable the internal crossover in your sub to keep that from being done twice. If your sub doesn't provide a switch to disable its internal crossover, or perhaps an input jack that bypasses the internal crossover, then turn the crossover frequency in the sub all the way up to get it out of the way as much as possible -- in your case to the 150Hz setting.


I'm not sure what "bass contour" does in your sub. Check your sub's manual. I suspect you will want to set it to 0dB. Basically you don't want the sub to be altering the bass at all. Let the D2 do all the work.


The sub level should be set using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter and the internal test tones generated in the D2 (Setup > Speaker Calibration). Look back a page or so to the long post I just wrote on setting Noise Level and setting the volume control inside your subwoofer prior to doing ARC Measurements. The idea is to get the volume control set inside the subwoofer so that it is already in the ballpark of what your main speakers are producing -- which means that ARC doesn't have to apply too much volume trim either way to the subwoofer to get it into proper balance with the main speakers. Ballpark settings are fine for Noise Level and for your sub's internal volume control as ARC will calculate any adjustments.


Subwoofer Phase and Polarity are set using a calibration DVD. You play a test tone that comes out of both the sub and the LF speaker at the same time and then you adjust phase to get the maximum amount of bass -- particularly at the higher frequencies of that test tone. What you are doing is getting the speaker cone of the sub and the speaker cone of your LF speaker "in phase" so that the audio from the two of them doesn't cancel out when they are playing the same content at the same time as happens for audio in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies. The LF speaker is commonly used for this phase setup as a surrogate for all your main speakers. The affect (in phase vs. out of phase) is subtle so take your time and concentrate. It's also OK to revisit this and refine your phase settings AFTER you set up ARC. If you only have one subwoofer the phase settings for it do not affect ARC's Measurements or Calculations. Things will just sound better when you get phase right, even after you have set up ARC.


If you only have the one subwoofer you can leave its phase at 0 (as you have done) and make any necessary adjustments using the Phase and Polarity settings in the D2 (Setup > Speaker Configuration > Bass Management for Movie and for Music).

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

I talked to anthem during the week and they said leave the contour set at 0 along with phase , and cut off to 150 hz, polarity set to normal. i basically have same sub.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15278366
> 
> 
> Let's see. Sell an old D2 on Audiogon. Buy a new D2 at the reduced price and order the half price D2 v.2 upgrade.
> 
> 
> Nah. Nobody would go through that much trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course you'd have to do it before the word got out.....
> 
> --Bob



I think I'll just hang onto it and hope that there is not a whole lot of improvement from the current model.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Omg!


ROFLMAO!










That is ridicules!


I LOVE IT!


I don't even know if it's set up right but holy smokes Transformers BD!!!! All I could was *SMILE!*


Ok time to really show how tech savvy I am. How do I post my graphs?


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15290406
> 
> 
> I talked to anthem during the week and they said leave the contour set at 0 along with phase , and cut off to 150 hz, polarity set to normal. i basically have same sub.



Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15290895
> 
> 
> Omg!
> 
> 
> ROFLMAO!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is ridicules!
> 
> 
> I LOVE IT!
> 
> 
> I don't even know if it's set up right but holy smokes Transformers BD!!!! All I could was *SMILE!*
> 
> 
> Ok time to really show how tech savvy I am. How do I post my graphs?



Bring up the charts in Windows and do the key combo to "screen capture active window" -- it's probably something like ALT-Print Screen. That will put an image of the window in the clipboard.


You then have a number of ways to go. What I've been doing is pasting that into the Windows Paint app that's bundled with windows and then Save As using JPEG format to keep the file size reasonable.


This only captures the visible portion of the window, so you will need to scroll the charts to the top to capture that and then scroll down to bring up the rest of the charts and capture that. For both Movie and Music configurations (if different) that's 4 JPEG files. Bring up the Targets window and capture that as a 5th file.


When you post your message here you can upload these files to AVS directly from your computer and links will be attached to your message. You do that in the Attach Files section you'll find just below the text entry box where you are typing in your message. You can Preview Post before you submit it to make sure everything is working as you intended.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Just watched Die Hard with a Vengeance and this is the best my system has sounded with ARC so far. Version 1.2.13 at 20K. From the LFE to the smallest details, it was fantastic. Hard to think this can get better but I'll let Anthem work on that.









John


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15290895
> 
> 
> Omg!
> 
> 
> ROFLMAO!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is ridicules!
> 
> 
> I LOVE IT!
> 
> 
> I don't even know if it's set up right but holy smokes Transformers BD!!!! All I could was *SMILE!*
> 
> 
> Ok time to really show how tech savvy I am. How do I post my graphs?



i watched batman tonight, everything sounded great, have fun...


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15292527
> 
> 
> i watched batman tonight, everything sounded great, have fun...



I'll upload my files when I get a chance. I'm sure tweaking will be necessary! For now, I can't leave my D2... must watch another movie!










I'm saving Batman for next weekend. Friends are coming over to watch it with us.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

This is the first time I have had a problem. I thought I would try ARC 1.2.13 this am and I got the error message that it could not upload -12.50 for the subwoofer. This happened twice. Now I know the max is -12.00 so what do I do to correct this?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15294757
> 
> 
> This is the first time I have had a problem. I thought I would try ARC 1.2.13 this am and I got the error message that it could not upload -12.50 for the subwoofer. This happened twice. Now I know the max is -12.00 so what do I do to correct this?
> 
> 
> Thanks



First, let Anthem tech support know what happened. This problem was previously fixed (V1.2.4 as I recall) but may have crept back in to the "test" V1.2.13 software.


For now you will have to lower the volume control built into your subwoofer so that ARC doesn't need to apply so much negative volume trim to it to get it into balance with the other speakers.


Start by going through the exercise I wrote up a page or so back on using your SPL meter to set the Noise Level in Setup and then to set the volume knob on your subwoofer. Then re-Measure with ARC.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Bob,

A quick question -


Video Source ->component connection->D2->HDMI connection->display.


Will this work? Thanks.


-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15294907
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> A quick question -
> 
> 
> Video Source ->component connection->D2->HDMI connection->display.
> 
> 
> Will this work? Thanks.
> 
> 
> -Ben



Yes that will work fine. Since the Component input video is being "processed", it is limited to no higher than 1080i/60. The HDMI output resulting from that can be up to 1080p/60.

--Bob


----------



## kmcadillac44

Hi everyone - I'm new to the forum (this is my first post!), and based on what I've been reading this post will be hugely remedial, but I am considering upgrading to the Anthem D2V2. I currently have a B&K Reference 50 S2 hooked up to the B&K Reference 200.7 with a PS3 providing the Blu-Ray. Two initial questions - 1.) is the upgrade in audio worth the $7000 or so I'd have to drop (the B&K can't process DTS-MA or Dolby Digital True Audio and does not have HDMI input/outputs) and 2.) Will using the B&K 200.7 be ok for the amp (7 channel 200W)? For reference I have Klipsch RF-7 fronts, RC-7 Center, and 4 RS-62's around the back.


Thanks for any input - big purchase consideration in hard times!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I can't answer you amp question, but as far as audio quality, yes I think you'll hear a dramatic improvement. Anthem's ARC alone (bundled with the D2) is worth the price of admission. Not to mention you get a top quality video processor integrated in!


Oh, and welcome to AVS, and to the "cool kids" thread!










Be sure to check out the "Good Parts Version" -- the collection of post links you'll find in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

I don't know if it's been posted before but was is the price of a upgrade from the d2 to v2.


----------



## kmcadillac44

Thanks Bob - i think I would like the video upgrade too. I am considering buying a Epson Pro 1080 UB to replace my InFocus 7210 (it is only 720P with no HDMI input), so I hope I'd see a significant bump in video too.


My assumption on the amp is that since all of the conditioning is done in the pre-amp that the amp should be transparent. Is that reasonable?


----------



## kmcadillac44

Also does anyone know if the D2V2 is available or if not, when it will be?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kmcadillac44* /forum/post/15296576
> 
> 
> Also does anyone know if the D2V2 is available or if not, when it will be?



Not yet. No word on when but we're getting close.









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15296454
> 
> 
> I don't know if it's been posted before but was is the price of a upgrade from the d2 to v2.



We don't have details on the upgrade pricing yet. Ballpark is probably something under $2000.


Despite that, new D2 purchasers between now and Dec 31 are apparently getting a limited time offer for a "half price" D2 v.2 upgrade. We don't have details yet of how that works. It would have to be a pre-order of course, and I don't believe they have final pricing either.

--Bob


----------



## zr123

Hi Bob,


Is there a time frame as to when the AVM 50 V2 or D2 V2 will release?


Or still up in the air?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Still up in the air.


Back when it was announced I guessed the release would be November with an error range of -1 month to +2 months. I've got another 6 weeks to prove how prescient I am...










--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15296049
> 
> 
> Yes that will work fine. Since the Component input video is being "processed", it is limited to no higher than 1080i/60. The HDMI output resulting from that can be up to 1080p/60.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. Now I can proceed in confidence with the messy task of opening up my ceiling to insert the HDMI cable. It's an early X'mas gift, you see.









-Ben


----------



## buddy4711

I made 2 readings with ARC 1.2.5 and think that there is a drop between 10 and 20khz. Can somebody review it and recommend what to do?


ARC readings using 5 and 10 spots on automatic mode.


Statement D2 with 1.33, ARC 1.2.5. FL, FR and Center are KEF Reference speakers.


Thanks

 

ARC2.doc 111k . file

 

ARC1.doc 112k . file


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Obviously I'm still in the honeymoon stage but I spent the lion's share of my weekend with my D2 and I'm in awe. The improvement over my 3808ci is like my 3808ci over a Bose wave radio! I expected an improvement but not this. The video is amazing. I followed the manual and set up my display. The manual warned that at first the setting may seem dark as most people calibrate their displays too bright. And yes at first I found it too dark but after only two days I'm seeing the most amazing picture I've ever seen on a plasma display. The blacks are WOW. Every time a black scene comes on I think look at those blacks.


The Audio side is just as amazing. The loudest I played it was minus ten (ten above reference???) and it felt like my head would explode. Just blew me away. This is before I post my screen shots. I really really hope they're all out of whack and I can get things better (because I'm greedy that way







).


Thanks Bob, thanks AVS and thanks to my dealer. I've finally reached Audio/Video Nirvana!


Oh and I feel like a snob when I'm on AVS now. Face it guys we're the kings of the AMPs, Receivers, and Processors forum. We have what everyone wants.


----------



## budeone

Can someone please share the newest version of ARC for the AVM-50 please. I am going to try again Tuesday. I have the one on the web site.


Thanks


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Here are my graphs. Any input would be appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15299938
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob. Now I can proceed in confidence with the messy task of opening up my ceiling to insert the HDMI cable. It's an early X'mas gift, you see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Ben



I strongly recommend you hook up any in-wall or in-ceiling cables on the floor first and give it a try that way just to make sure the particular cabling you intend to use is all working as expected before you put it anywhere difficult to get to.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15301233
> 
> 
> Obviously I'm still in the honeymoon stage but I spent the lion's share of my weekend with my D2 and I'm in awe. The improvement over my 3808ci is like my 3808ci over a Bose wave radio! I expected an improvement but not this. The video is amazing. I followed the manual and set up my display. The manual warned that at first the setting may seem dark as most people calibrate their displays too bright. And yes at first I found it too dark but after only two days I'm seeing the most amazing picture I've ever seen on a plasma display. The blacks are WOW. Every time a black scene comes on I think look at those blacks.
> 
> 
> The Audio side is just as amazing. The loudest I played it was minus ten (ten above reference???) and it felt like my head would explode. Just blew me away. This is before I post my screen shots. I really really hope they're all out of whack and I can get things better (because I'm greedy that way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, thanks AVS and thanks to my dealer. I've finally reached Audio/Video Nirvana!
> 
> 
> Oh and I feel like a snob when I'm on AVS now. Face it guys we're the kings of the AMPs, Receivers, and Processors forum. We have what everyone wants.



A batch of these guys is on the way. They just love showing up around Christmas time!







































--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/15300293
> 
> 
> I made 2 readings with ARC 1.2.5 and think that there is a drop between 10 and 20khz. Can somebody review it and recommend what to do?
> 
> 
> ARC readings using 5 and 10 spots on automatic mode.
> 
> 
> Statement D2 with 1.33, ARC 1.2.5. FL, FR and Center are KEF Reference speakers.
> 
> 
> Thanks



First, the charts you posted only show the visible portions of the charts window when you did the screen capture -- so we can't see the bottom charts that include the Rears, Center, and Subwoofer. Scroll to the top of the chart window, capture that, then scroll to make the bottom set of charts visible in the window and capture that -- 2 separate files together containing all the charts.


Now the Fronts and Surrounds that are in the charts you posted do look to be having problems at high frequencies. This may just be the nature of these speakers but there are a few things you should check.


First make sure that all of your mic positions are set at seated ear height and that you are properly choosing mic locations: Mic #1 should be on center at the preferred seating distance, subsequent positions alternate to either side of #1, no two mic positions (whether or not they are sequential) are closer than 24 inches to each other, and the mic tip is not up near a surface that might reflect sound to it or shadow the sound from any of the speakers -- for example a chair back or wall. Also make sure you are not standing between any speakers and the mic while the test sweep tones are in progress. A wireless mouse is useful to help you get out of the way before you trigger the start of sweep tones.


Next, carefully consider the height and pointing of your speakers. Many speakers have poor vertical dispersion of most high frequencies, and it is also quite common for speakers to have weak horizontal dispersion at some frequencies (15KHz seems to be popular for some reason). Better positioning/pointing of the speakers may help with their high frequency response. For example, lower side surrounds closer to seated ear height if possible, and "toe in" your fronts a bit. They shouldn't be pointed directly towards center. I like 1/3 of the way in from perpendicular towards the center. Checking the manual for your speakers may give you some clues as to their high frequency performance and dispersion patterns. And of course if your speakers have any built in controls that might alter their high frequency response, check into how you've got those set as well.


Your high frequency response is not so bad as to suggest you have a driver problem in any speaker.


------------------------------------------


Once you have done what you can to improve the pointing/positioning of your speakers, go ahead and re-Measure and see what you get.


Now, I suggest you open ARC in Advanced mode and do everything from there. In Advanced mode you are in control of all 3 phases of what ARC does: Measurement, Calculation, and Upload.


When you have completed a set of Measurements, you can do a series of Calculations (adjusting Targets as I'm about to describe), and only do an Upload when you like the results you are getting. You can also open a saved file and do more Calculations/Uploads without having to re-Measure.


----------------------------------------


Open your file of Measurements in ARC Advanced mode, click on Targets to bring up the Targets window. ARC will display the Target settings it thinks are best given this set of Measurements, and most of them you should just leave at what ARC has chosen.


But one Target could be useful to you: The Max EQ Frequency Target limits how high up ARC will attempt to apply correction. By default it is set at 5KHz.


You can change that value, accept the change (which also dismisses the Target window), and do a new Calculation to see what results you get with the new Target. It is easy to do multiple Calculations like this to see how the results vary as you raise and lower the Max EQ Frequency Target. Once you get a result you like, now tell ARC to Upload that, and give it a listen!


Your current set of Measurements looks like it could benefit by telling ARC to use a higher Max EQ Frequency Target -- perhaps 15KHz. That will instruct ARC to help with your higher frequencies.


But when you divert ARC resources up there, it may not do as good a job at the lower frequencies. So try a few different settings to see if you can find a nice "compromise" setting that gives you the assistance you want at the high frequencies without causing too many wiggles to start appearing in the lower frequencies of the resulting Calculated curve. You can even push this Target all the way up to the max value of 20KHz to see what that does.


----------------------------------------------


The reason ARC defaults to only 5KHz is due to resource allocation (getting the bass and mid-range right is more important for most folks), and also because speaker directionality can cause ARC to hear misleading Measurements up there. The different mic positions will pick up results that differ due to directionality of the speakers rather than room characteristics, and ARC can't tell that this is happening.


So give a listen to the results you get after raising this Target, and see if you hear any problems in the high frequencies. Trust your ears. If you do, lower the Target a bit and try again.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/15302273
> 
> 
> Can someone please share the newest version of ARC for the AVM-50 please. I am going to try again Tuesday. I have the one on the web site.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Unless you enjoy experimenting with unfinished software, I suggest you stick with the "official" ARC version, V1.2.5, from the web site for now.


The latest "test" version, V1.2.13, from the password protected download page, is showing promise, but it is not really ready for prime time yet in my opinion.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15303676
> 
> 
> Here are my graphs. Any input would be appreciated.



Your charts don't look bad at all, and I'm not surprised the results sound great!


Here are my thoughts:


* Your subwoofer looks like it is good down to about 35Hz. This is not uncommon, but if you replace it with a new sub, properly sized for your room, that is designed to go deeper, you could likely gain another octave of bass goodness -- subsonics down to 20Hz or lower. Check the specs on your sub and if it is rated lower than 35Hz, revisit how you have it set up. But odds are you just need a deeper sub to get down that low.


* I think you could benefit by raising the Max EQ Frequency Target (as described in my post just above). You don't have to re-Measure, just open your saved ARC file in Advanced mode, alter the Target, do a new Calculation, iterate with different Target values until you think you've found a good "compromise" setting, and then Upload those results. I suggest you try 15KHz to start.


* Your LS/RS speakers are Measuring low in the low mid-range and upper bass. ARC is correcting for that, but it's still worth investigating. Now part of this is likely due to a "room cancellation null" around 150Hz (see the dip in your LF/RF speakers at that frequency), but the low response from LS/RS is over a broader frequency range than can likely be explained by that. Check to see if your LS/RS speakers have any adjustments for bass or low frequency response -- for example a bass port that you need to open. Also play some stuff in Stereo All mode (so that the same audio goes to the LS/RS speakers as goes to the LF/RF speakers), and put your ear up close to each driver in your LS/RS speakers to make sure each individual drive is making sound. Some speakers have separate input jacks for high and low frequencies and you need to make sure both sets of jacks are connected. Again, ARC has almost totally corrected for this (there's a small, residual, uncorrected error near the Room Gain "hump" in the LS speaker), but it is still worth checking to see if you can improve the Measured curves.


That's basically it! See? Not so tough.









--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15304312
> 
> 
> Your charts don't look bad at all, and I'm not surprised the results sound great!
> 
> 
> Here are my thoughts:
> 
> 
> * Your LS/RS speakers are Measuring low in the low mid-range and upper bass. ARC is correcting for that, but it's still worth investigating. Now part of this is likely due to a "room cancellation null" around 150Hz (see the dip in your LF/RF speakers at that frequency), but the low response from LS/RS is over a broader frequency range than can likely be explained by that. Check to see if your LS/RS speakers have any adjustments for bass or low frequency response -- for example a bass port that you need to open. Also play some stuff in Stereo All mode (so that the same audio goes to the LS/RS speakers as goes to the LF/RF speakers), and put your ear up close to each driver in your LS/RS speakers to make sure each individual drive is making sound. Some speakers have separate input jacks for high and low frequencies and you need to make sure both sets of jacks are connected. Again, ARC has almost totally corrected for this (there's a small, residual, uncorrected error near the Room Gain "hump" in the LS speaker), but it is still worth checking to see if you can improve the Measured curves.
> 
> 
> That's basically it! See? Not so tough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,


Do you think it’s possible the LS/RS speakers are Measuring low in the low mid-range and upper bass because of their location. I can post pictures to give you a better idea but due to fact my house is a four level split I have two large windows (eight feet in length each) that run from just about the ceiling down to about four feet off the floor. Due to real a wonky room layout I had to mount the rear speakers three feet higher than what would be ideal and 10/11 feet behind the seating. Way further back than they should be.


Until just before I got the D2 I had them on stands in a much better position but I have an 11 month old that is now walking and I had to get them off the stands and high enough that he can’t hang on them until he’s old enough to know better.


It’s one of those multi purpose rooms that’s far from ideal.


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15304123
> 
> 
> Unless you enjoy experimenting with unfinished software, I suggest you stick with the "official" ARC version, V1.2.5, from the web site for now.
> 
> 
> The latest "test" version, V1.2.13, from the password protected download page, is showing promise, but it is not really ready for prime time yet in my opinion.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15304312
> 
> 
> 
> * I think you could benefit by raising the Max EQ Frequency Target (as described in my post just above). You don't have to re-Measure, just open your saved ARC file in Advanced mode, alter the Target, do a new Calculation, iterate with different Target values until you think you've found a good "compromise" setting, and then Upload those results. I suggest you try 15KHz to start.
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Ok, I changed the max EQ freq from 5000 to 1500. Here's the new charts. Is that better, would you upload to this to D2?


----------



## buckley44

im using the 12volt trigger out of the d2 into a pair of classe ca-m400 mono amps, in the d2 i have the trigger enabled and highlighted under power in triggers 1&2 but the amps are not turning on, am i missing something here?


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15230082
> 
> 
> Normally I would suspect your programmable remote (bad programming or faulty remote), but you say you removed the batteries to disable that remote and the problem is still happening. I presume you are not using any OTHER IR remotes in the room besides that programmable remote, right?
> 
> --Bob



Well, its taken awhile because it is random, but the unit is sitting on my CPU desk with IR's, RS232, and Triggers off, otherwise factory defaults, and the latest 1.33 inside, and it still comes on all 3 zones, whenever it feels like it....


Very strange, but I will give Tech a call tomorrow. I'm almost to two years on the unit. Maybe while it's in, they can sneek another 4 hdmi in it...


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15306241
> 
> 
> im using the 12volt trigger out of the d2 into a pair of classe ca-m400 mono amps, in the d2 i have the trigger enabled and highlighted under power in triggers 1&2 but the amps are not turning on, am i missing something here?



IIRC there are 3 triggers, two are lower current and one is higher current. Does your amp require a higher current?


I use my 12v trigger3 to turn on my 7 channel amp and it works great.


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/15306926
> 
> 
> IIRC there are 3 triggers, two are lower current and one is higher current. Does your amp require a higher current?
> 
> 
> I use my 12v trigger3 to turn on my 7 channel amp and it works great.



the problem is that there mono blks, so im using 1 & 2 off the d2. i will try 3 with one of them to see if that works. thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15305319
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> Do you think it's possible the LS/RS speakers are Measuring low in the low mid-range and upper bass because of their location. I can post pictures to give you a better idea but due to fact my house is a four level split I have two large windows (eight feet in length each) that run from just about the ceiling down to about four feet off the floor. Due to real a wonky room layout I had to mount the rear speakers three feet higher than what would be ideal and 10/11 feet behind the seating. Way further back than they should be.
> 
> 
> Until just before I got the D2 I had them on stands in a much better position but I have an 11 month old that is now walking and I had to get them off the stands and high enough that he can't hang on them until he's old enough to know better.
> 
> 
> It's one of those multi purpose rooms that's far from ideal.



Keep in mind that the surround speakers in a 5.1 configuration are supposed to be SIDE surrounds, not REAR surrounds, so you are probably going to have some odd surround stage imaging. But you do what you have to do in an unusual room.


It is possible your surround speakers are simply not efficient enough for the size of your room, particularly when placed so far back of the listening area. The good thing is that even if you do nothing with them, ARC has managed to correct almost all of that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15306056
> 
> 
> Ok, I changed the max EQ freq from 5000 to 1500. Here's the new charts. Is that better, would you upload to this to D2?



Absolutely! The 15KHz charts look just peachy. The only problems that really jump out are that your LS speaker is a bit weak near 150Hz, and your sub is not able to produce the lowest octave of subsonics -- both of which we've already talked about.


Go ahead and Upload this one and see if you can hear any improvement!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15306241
> 
> 
> im using the 12volt trigger out of the d2 into a pair of classe ca-m400 mono amps, in the d2 i have the trigger enabled and highlighted under power in triggers 1&2 but the amps are not turning on, am i missing something here?



In Setup > Trigger make sure you have enabled all Triggers in the first line. You have to do this in addition to selecting the events that activate each specific Trigger.


Double check that you are wired to the actual Trigger outputs of the D2. We had another poster here who was mistakenly wired to the IR control block instead. See Section 2.4 of the manual.


Some devices want their Trigger voltage to be a certain polarity. Check the manual for your amps and reverse the polarity of the trigger wires from the D2 if necessary. The Trigger output mini jack sockets on the D2 present positive 12 volts on the "tip" and ground on the "sleeve".


Some devices want a pulse-style trigger. The D2 puts out a continuous voltage on the Trigger, not a pulse. Devices that expect a pulse often have a switch that changes them to expect a continuous voltage trigger instead.


Also make sure you have enabled Trigger control in your amps.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15307354
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the surround speakers in a 5.1 configuration are s*upposed to be SIDE surrounds, not REAR surrounds*, so you are probably going to have some odd surround stage imaging. But you do what you have to do in an unusual room.
> 
> --Bob



I know... stupid room!










Btw, I can see how this can become addictive.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15307940
> 
> 
> I know... stupid room!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I can see how this can become addictive.



It is





















I am driving everyones nut at home with my sweeps sessions.


----------



## buckley44

Bob, i tried using a 3.5mm stereo cable and that did the job. I had read on some forums to try the stereo cable , and it worked instead of using a mono cable which the manual suggested.do you know why the stereo cable works and not the mono?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15311424
> 
> 
> Bob, i tried using a 3.5mm stereo cable and that did the job. I had read on some forums to try the stereo cable , and it worked instead of using a mono cable which the manual suggested.do you know why the stereo cable works and not the mono?



Usually it is because the plug is not fully inserted in the jack at one or both ends -- so that the tip of the mono plug is not making proper contact with just the tip contact in the socket. What does your amp say it needs for a plug?


I use mono mini jacks and they work just fine.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

yes classe says use a mono plug but for some reason the stereo plugs are working, using a stereo cable should not cause a problem should it?


----------



## Stizzi

D2V2 if anyone is interested. I got a great deal on one. Pm me and I'll give out the details. And no I don't have it yet but was promised it before years end.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15303741
> 
> 
> I strongly recommend you hook up any in-wall or in-ceiling cables on the floor first and give it a try that way just to make sure the particular cabling you intend to use is all working as expected before you put it anywhere difficult to get to.
> 
> --Bob



Good idea, Bob.

BTW, as luck would have it, a new 8ft Monster M1000HD HDMI cable somehow fell into my lap today. It's double the length I need, but for $120 I'm not complaining. So now, I will have HDMI connection from source to display via my D2. Can't wait to get it going.









-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15312144
> 
> 
> yes classe says use a mono plug but for some reason the stereo plugs are working, using a stereo cable should not cause a problem should it?



No. One of the two signal wires will contact nothing or ground. The other will contact the "tip" +12 volts, and the barrel will contact the "sleave" ground. Presuming the plugs were properly inserted in the jacks the only thing I can think of is that you had a faulty mono mini jack cable. It happens.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stizzi* /forum/post/15312308
> 
> 
> D2V2 if anyone is interested. I got a great deal on one. Pm me and I'll give out the details. And no I don't have it yet but was promised it before years end.



Without mentioning price or the name of the seller, could you just state whether this is an authorized Anthem dealer offering you this deal? And do you have any details as to whether the v.2 is "complete"? For example, will it ship with DTS-HD MA and TrueHD decoding or is that delayed until a future firmware upgrade?


If finished D2 v.2 units really are going to be available anywhere in the world in the next 2 weeks, I'm surprised we haven't had more leaks here. I know we have some US dealers following this thread for example.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15312705
> 
> 
> Without mentioning price or the name of the seller, could you just state whether this is an authorized Anthem dealer offering you this deal? And do you have any details as to whether the v.2 is "complete"? For example, will it ship with DTS-HD MA and TrueHD decoding or is that delayed until a future firmware upgrade?
> 
> 
> If finished D2 v.2 units really are going to be available anywhere in the world in the next 2 weeks, I'm surprised we haven't had more leaks here. I know we have some US dealers following this thread for example.
> 
> --Bob



Last week when I was surprised by the half off the D2V coupon (notice the coupon sent directly from Anthem didn't say D2V2... it said D2V coming soon!) I asked my dealer when it was out and when I could upgrade. He said not until the New Year. We hope early January but we'll see??? I'm not calling Stizzi a liar. I just find a pre New Year release very unlikely. Oh my dealer also said he’d be surprised if I can update my D2 as soon as the D2V is released. I’ll likely have to wait a few months. Not that I’m in any hurry to upgrade seeing as I have a year. Heck that should give anthem time to work any minor kinks out.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stizzi* /forum/post/15312308
> 
> 
> D2V2 if anyone is interested. I got a great deal on one. Pm me and I'll give out the details. And no I don't have it yet but was promised it before years end.



I'm under the understanding Anthem dealers are only permitted to sell products within their own territory. That being the case what good would a PM to you do us? You're dealer couldn't ship to us anyway.


----------



## BJB23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15312705
> 
> 
> Without mentioning price or the name of the seller, could you just state whether this is an authorized Anthem dealer offering you this deal? And do you have any details as to whether the v.2 is "complete"? For example, will it ship with DTS-HD MA and TrueHD decoding or is that delayed until a future firmware upgrade?
> 
> 
> If finished D2 v.2 units really are going to be available anywhere in the world in the next 2 weeks, I'm surprised we haven't had more leaks here. I know we have some US dealers following this thread for example.
> 
> --Bob




I agree with Bob, I'd be very surprised if v2 units are available before the end of the year. I spoke with my dealer last weekend and they are taking orders (i.e., Dealers are taking deposits) for the v2, but Anthem hasn't told them the date when the units will ship or what the price will be.


----------



## Axatax




> Quote:
> I'm under the understanding Anthem dealers are only permitted to sell products within their own territory.



I'll be in the market for an ARC kit for my D1-HD around March when I get back to the US. The only dealer local to me has just closed up shop. What are my options? Does Anthem make allowances for this?


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Axatax* /forum/post/15313443
> 
> 
> I'll be in the market for an ARC kit for my D1-HD around March when I get back to the US. The only dealer local to me has just closed up shop. What are my options? Does Anthem make allowances for this?



Oh they must! You have to send the unit into Anthem to get the ARC kit installed anyway so my guess is you could deal directly with Anthem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Axatax* /forum/post/15313443
> 
> 
> I'll be in the market for an ARC kit for my D1-HD around March when I get back to the US. The only dealer local to me has just closed up shop. What are my options? Does Anthem make allowances for this?



Give Anthem a call. There may be a "custom install" dealer that is covering your territory. The ARC kit for the D1-HD requires no dealer action except to take the order and deliver the box to you, so a "custom install" dealer is all you need.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15313557
> 
> 
> Oh they must! You have to send the unit into Anthem to get the ARC kit installed anyway so my guess is you could deal directly with Anthem.



No, there is no hardware installation required to add ARC to a D1-HD. So you don't need to send the unit to Anthem or anything like that.

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex

Wow...to say I'm *intimidated* is an UNDERSTATEMENT!!!! I just received my ARC AVM upgrade package and I'm going to install the hardware & software this weekend.


I soooo wish there was someone in Austin, Texas who I could pay to do this for me. After reading 10 pages of posts I'm scared shxxless that I'm going to goof this up. Polarity this, crossover that, phase what…


Oh boy….Oh well....I have the faith…


Can someone please recommend what AVM 50 software version I should upgrade to and what ARC software version I should use for best results and stability? Did I miss any other software?


The good news here is I'm an idiot when it comes to setting up the speakers; so hopefully when I post my graphs everyone will get great pleasure (present company included) at the miraculous improvements with ARC.


Let’s hope so....


Signed...Little Scared Tex....


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Easy there Pilgrim! It ain't so tough.


First you want firmware V1.33 in your AVM. Even if you already have that firmware installed, you need to install it again on top of itself after the ARC DSP board is installed in your AVM -- so that the firmware has a chance to recognize and set up to use the new DSP board.


Next you want ARC application software version V1.2.5 installed on your Windows PC. This is likely the version that is on the install CD that came with your ARC kit.


Now, go to the first post of this thread and find the collection of links to ARC posts. There are rather a lot of them, but the posts they link to are usually short. Read through those linked posts and you'll be up to speed pretty fast.


Also read the ARC section in the updated AVM User Manual. It gets installed on your PC when you install the ARC application, or you can download it from the Anthem AVM web site.


After you have looked through that stuff, if you still have questions just post them here.


And take heart. Poster OHDEE just went through the same turmoil and he'll likely tell you it was not as scary as he feared, and WELL worth the effort!

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15312705
> 
> 
> Without mentioning price or the name of the seller, could you just state whether this is an authorized Anthem dealer offering you this deal? And do you have any details as to whether the v.2 is "complete"? For example, will it ship with DTS-HD MA and TrueHD decoding or is that delayed until a future firmware upgrade?
> 
> 
> If finished D2 v.2 units really are going to be available anywhere in the world in the next 2 weeks, I'm surprised we haven't had more leaks here. I know we have some US dealers following this thread for example.
> 
> --Bob



It is extremely unlikely. Anthem are not the only one being late in their new product. Bryston is also in the same situation the SP3 will show up a few months later than expected.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15317704
> 
> 
> Wow...to say I'm *intimidated* is an UNDERSTATEMENT!!!! I just received my ARC AVM upgrade package and I'm going to install the hardware & software this weekend.
> 
> 
> I soooo wish there was someone in Austin, Texas who I could pay to do this for me. After reading 10 pages of posts I'm scared shxxless that I'm going to goof this up. Polarity this, crossover that, phase what
> 
> 
> Oh boy.Oh well....I have the faith
> 
> 
> Can someone please recommend what AVM 50 software version I should upgrade to and what ARC software version I should use for best results and stability? Did I miss any other software?
> 
> 
> The good news here is I'm an idiot when it comes to setting up the speakers; so hopefully when I post my graphs everyone will get great pleasure (present company included) at the miraculous improvements with ARC.
> 
> 
> Let's hope so....
> 
> 
> Signed...Little Scared Tex....



I can appreciate where you're coming from. I just ran ARC for the first time and I felt pretty lost. Having to install the latest hardware and software would have made the process even more daunting.


The only advice I can give you is to take some time and read the links bob was referring too. It's actually a very easy process and my graphs came out looking good the very first time. I expected it would be much more complicated than it actually was.


Just get it done knowing the difference after ARC is amazing. It's going to sound like a whole new system. I'm still grinning from ear to ear. We're having friends over for a Christmas party this weekend and I can't wait to demo my new processor. People are going to poo in their pants when they hear this thing.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15318840
> 
> 
> It is extremely unlikely. Anthem are not the only one being late in their new product. Bryston is also in the same situation the SP3 will show up a few months later than expected.



Cary Audio just released (almost one year late) their Cinema 11A with internal decoding and hdmi 1.3A, and most of the purchasers per the AVS thread are having all types of minor popping and hdmi connection issues.


Anthem can and should wait until the V2 is really ready to sing and dance! And I am sure that is the plan.


Maybe Stizzi thought that he might have an early line on a V3?


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Bob,


This will likely be the easiest question you had to answer in a long long time. I looked and looked in the manual and I can't see how to do this. How do I turn on five speaker (or four speaker with no center channel) stereo when listening to music?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15322376
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> This will likely be the easiest question you had to answer in a long long time. I looked and looked in the manual and I can't see how to do this. How do I turn on five speaker (or four speaker with no center channel) stereo when listening to music?



Play stereo content (e.g., a CD) -- not 5.1 channel content. While playing that, make sure THX post processing is turned off -- press the THX button and use the Up or Down arrows to toggle. Now press Mode to display the current audio surround mode. Use the Up or Down arrows to switch to STEREO ALL.


See Section 4.8.3 of the Manual (where they call it "All Channel Stereo").


Alternatively, MONO ALL combines both the Left and Right channels together and sends the identical content to all speakers.


These two modes are useful for testing your speaker drivers, and also for party situations where nobody is going to hear true surround ambience anyway. They are not particularly useful for critical music listening.


-----------------------------------


To do this and NOT use the Center speaker, you need to turn off the Center speaker in your Setup > Speaker Configuration. But again, STEREO ALL and MONO ALL are not really good choices for critical music listening.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15322738
> 
> 
> Play stereo content (e.g., a CD) -- not 5.1 channel content. While playing that, make sure THX post processing is turned off -- press the THX button and use the Up or Down arrows to toggle. Now press Mode to display the current audio surround mode. Use the Up or Down arrows to switch to STEREO ALL.
> 
> 
> See Section 4.8.3 of the Manual (where they call it "All Channel Stereo").
> 
> 
> Alternatively, MONO ALL combines both the Left and Right channels together and sends the identical content to all speakers.
> 
> 
> These two modes are useful for testing your speaker drivers, and also for party situations where nobody is going to hear true surround ambience anyway. They are not particularly useful for critical music listening.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> To do this and NOT use the Center speaker, you need to turn off the Center speaker in your Setup > Speaker Configuration. But again, STEREO ALL and MONO ALL are not really good choices for critical music listening.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks... I'll give that a try.


Maybe I'm having trouble because I'm using my PS3 as a CD player? I'll play with it again.


Now on a totally unrelated note! My wife is not into my home theater hobby at all. She's involved to the extent she lets me spend lots of money and is supportive. She however could care less if we had a 50 inch plasma or a 58 inch plasma. I buy things and I can see and hear the difference but she always just shrugs her shoulders and says ya I guess so.










She called me at work an hour or so ago and said (I quote) Is that new processor ever _fu$&ing_ awesome. I was just like ya I know! She was listening to a new Celine Dion Christmas cd she picked up and she couldn't believe how great that processor sounds. She said the music comes from all around it's just fantastic. Then she asked if I figured out how to get all five speakers going? I told her no, that's just the two main channels and thanks for reminding me as I have to ask Bob how to do that.


These Anthem D2 processors really, really are fine pieces of home audio equipment. Like I said I'm still a newbie and perhaps I'll one day take it for granted but for now I love it!


Friends are coming over Sunday to watch The Dark Knight!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Wife Acceptance Factor


Another fine feature of the Anthem pre-pros!











--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15322376
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> This will likely be the easiest question you had to answer in a long long time. I looked and looked in the manual and I can't see how to do this. How do I turn on five speaker (or four speaker with no center channel) stereo when listening to music?



For 5.1 all channel music you can also use the the 'PLxII music' or 'Neo6 music' modes for a 2 channel stereo input signal. These along with the 'All channel Stereo' mode will provide a surround sound similar to what you may have been used to with your Denon.

For a music mode without the center channel you might try the 'Anthem Logic Music' mode. It is more of an enhanced stereo mode than a 'surround sound' mode. Many of the D2 owners swear by it.

You also might want to check what the 'mode presets' are for your PS3. If you are using your PS3 input to play your cd's, it will apply whatever mode you have chosen for a '2.0' signal (PLxII movie, PLxII music, Stereo, etc.). Unfortunately if you set it up for a surround sound music mode for cd's it will apply that mode for a 2.0 signal from any disc you play in the PS3, whether its a cd or DVD or Blu-ray. Most BR and dvd's have a 5.1 signal, but some old dvd's might have a 2.0 signal.

You can work around this problem by setting up a CD source separate from the PS3 source. In the D2 setup menu under 'source setup' for CD you would choose the same hdmi input you use for the PS3. Under the 'mode presets' for the PS3 you would choose a movie surround mode (PLxII movie, etc.) for a 2 channel source. Under the 'mode presets' for CD you would choose whatever music mode you want (PLxII music, Anthem Logic Music,etc.) for a 2 channel stereo signal.

Bob can probably explain this better than I have, but the D2 allows alot of ways to work around problems caused by playing different types of discs thru a single component, like a universal player.

I've had my D2 for a few years and I'm still figuring out new ways to use it better.

BTW after having used it for years I often still find myself going' WOW, that sounds great'.









Tom


----------



## benleeys

Bob,

I just realised my Denon 5910 cannot pass 480i thru HDMI, only component is able to do so. It's HDMI can only pass 480p/576p/720p/1080i/1080p


Do you think I'm better off using component between Denon and D2, and HDMI from D2 to display, thus using the D2 to deinterlace rather than the Denon? Thanks.

-Ben


----------



## AbMagFab

Periodic check - any news on the D2v2? Looks like no merry xmas for me...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15326959
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I just realised my Denon 5910 cannot pass 480i thru HDMI, only component is able to do so. It's HDMI can only pass 480p/576p/720p/1080i/1080p
> 
> 
> Do you think I'm better off using component between Denon and D2, and HDMI from D2 to display, thus using the D2 to deinterlace rather than the Denon? Thanks.
> 
> -Ben



The Denon 5910 has, by all accounts, an excellent de-interlacing solution. If you feel like experimenting, then go ahead and compare Component 480i vs. HDMI 480p for yourself, but I suspect you'll see no difference -- so use whichever is easier for you. Be sure to double-check the basic calibration levels both ways as they may very well need different settings.


Some devices have filtering on their Component outputs that reduce horizontal video resolution. I doubt this is true for the 5910, but look for that too.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15328413
> 
> 
> Periodic check - any news on the D2v2? Looks like no merry xmas for me...



New D2 units shipped recently have shipped with a half-price offer for the D2 v.2 upgrade for the unit (when available). On the other hand, it still looks like new D2 v.2 units in January and upgrades not until February from the tea leaves I've seen.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OhDee,

As TNGILOY says, if you aren't actually looking for STEREO ALL or MONO ALL to test your speaker function -- if what you were actually looking for is music surround sound processing for real music listening -- then I suggest you compare three choices and see which you prefer. This is all about personal preference, so there is no set, right answer. You select these choices by pressing the Mode button and using the Up/Down arrows to cycle through the available audio modes. Remember that the modes available at any point in time vary according to the type of audio input (e.g., stereo vs. 5.1), whether or not you have a 7.1 speaker setup, and whether or not THX post processing is turned on. See the Manual.


The three choices you ought to try are:


1) Stereo -- Just the LF/RF and subwoofer are used. This is the mode I prefer for music.


2) Anthem Logic - Music -- a "non-aggressive" surround mode that uses all but the Center speaker. AL-Music is an easy choice to get some surround ambience from your 2-channel music content without having to define a separate Music speaker configuration without a Center speaker. A modest amount of content is steered to the surround speakers.


3) PLIIx - Music -- a somewhat more aggressive (more sound steered to the surrounds) surround mode. PLIIx-Music uses the Center but comes with two adjustments (press Mode multiple times after selecting PLIIx-Music). One adjustment is for how much sound gets steered to the Center, and the other is for how much sound gets steered to the Surrounds. So you can modify PLIIx-Music to suit your tastes. A third adjustment, Panoramic, uses special phase difference math between the LF/RF to broaden the sound stage. But that one works best if you are seated centrally.


Once you settle on which surround mode you like, you can go into Setup > Mode Presets for that source and make it the default choice.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15329145
> 
> 
> The Denon 5910 has, by all accounts, an excellent de-interlacing solution. If you feel like experimenting, then go ahead and compare Component 480i vs. HDMI 480p for yourself, but I suspect you'll see no difference -- so use whichever is easier for you. Be sure to double-check the basic calibration levels both ways as they may very well need different settings.
> 
> 
> Some devices have filtering on their Component outputs that reduce horizontal video resolution. I doubt this is true for the 5910, but look for that too.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob, I'll compare - as soon as I can get a pic thru. Thought I'll try replacing the Source->D2 component connection with HDMI first before replacing the D2->Display section to see how it goes, but so far can't get a picture thru, only audio. Must be a wrong setting somewhere.









-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15329298
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob, I'll compare - as soon as I can get a pic thru. Thought I'll try replacing the Source->D2 component connection with HDMI first before replacing the D2->Display section to see how it goes, but so far can't get a picture thru, only audio. Must be a wrong setting somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Ben



Perhaps I don't know what you are trying to do. You should be using HDMI to the display regardless, as the D2 will convert Component input to HDMI output but HDMI copy protection prohibits turning HDMI input into Component output.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15329601
> 
> 
> Perhaps I don't know what you are trying to do. You should be using HDMI to the display regardless, as the D2 will convert Component input to HDMI output but HDMI copy protection prohibits turning HDMI input into Component output.
> 
> --Bob



OH! Stupid me, I forgot (banging head against wall).







I was thinking I'd take one step (read connection) at a time.

-Ben


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15329243
> 
> 
> OhDee,
> 
> As TNGILOY says, if you aren't actually looking for STEREO ALL or MONO ALL to test your speaker function -- if what you were actually looking for is music surround sound processing for real music listening -- then I suggest you compare three choices and see which you prefer. This is all about personal preference, so there is no set, right answer. You select these choices by pressing the Mode button and using the Up/Down arrows to cycle through the available audio modes. Remember that the modes available at any point in time vary according to the type of audio input (e.g., stereo vs. 5.1), whether or not you have a 7.1 speaker setup, and whether or not THX post processing is turned on. See the Manual.
> 
> 
> The three choices you ought to try are:
> 
> 
> 1) Stereo -- Just the LF/RF and subwoofer are used. This is the mode I prefer for music.
> 
> 
> 2) Anthem Logic - Music -- a "non-aggressive" surround mode that uses all but the Center speaker. AL-Music is an easy choice to get some surround ambience from your 2-channel music content without having to define a separate Music speaker configuration without a Center speaker. A modest amount of content is steered to the surround speakers.
> 
> 
> 3) PLIIx - Music -- a somewhat more aggressive (more sound steered to the surrounds) surround mode. PLIIx-Music uses the Center but comes with two adjustments (press Mode multiple times after selecting PLIIx-Music). One adjustment is for how much sound gets steered to the Center, and the other is for how much sound gets steered to the Surrounds. So you can modify PLIIx-Music to suit your tastes. A third adjustment, Panoramic, uses special phase difference math between the LF/RF to broaden the sound stage. But that one works best if you are seated centrally.
> 
> 
> Once you settle on which surround mode you like, you can go into Setup > Mode Presets for that source and make it the default choice.
> 
> --Bob



OhDee-

This is great advice. I also prefer stereo(front L&R with subs), but you will be the final judge on which mode you prefer.

Once you do decide, I suggest you then re-run ARC in advanced mode for a music set-up separate from your movie. If you decide on stereo or Anthem Logic Music you will be using a different speaker configuration from your movie setup and should let ARC calibrate for those speakers. Its a little more work, but well worth it.

Tom


----------



## cecaa850

I just ordered my ARC kit this week. 2 questions and I apologise in advance if these have been asked previously. I took a long break from posting here and spent my free time enjoying my gear instead of obsessing over what to get and what to tweak.

1) How long has it been taking most people to get their kits once they're ordered?

2) My living room has some nasty peaks and nulls as far as bass is concerned. I've used a BFD and bass traps to pretty much get it somewhat under control. I'm wondering if I should leave the BFD in the loop to do most of the "heavy lifting" as far as low frequencies are concerned and let the ARC take care of what's left? I have an IB for a sub and get strong output down to the single digits and I don't want to lose anything on the bottom end.

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/15337119
> 
> 
> I just ordered my ARC kit this week. 2 questions and I apologise in advance if these have been asked previously. I took a long break from posting here and spent my free time enjoying my gear instead of obsessing over what to get and what to tweak.
> 
> 1) How long has it been taking most people to get their kits once they're ordered?
> 
> 2) My living room has some nasty peaks and nulls as far as bass is concerned. I've used a BFD and bass traps to pretty much get it somewhat under control. I'm wondering if I should leave the BFD in the loop to do most of the "heavy lifting" as far as low frequencies are concerned and let the ARC take care of what's left? I have an IB for a sub and get strong output down to the single digits and I don't want to lose anything on the bottom end.
> 
> Thanks.



Most reports are that ARC kits are showing up in about 2 weeks. But there was a period about two months ago when Anthem ran out of the special ARC mics and it took quite a bit longer.


I suggest you leave the bass traps in place but, to start, remove/disable any other active EQ system and try it with just ARC alone.


If ARC doesn't do the job, you can add back in the other active EQ. If you DO add in the other active EQ, I suggest you set that up WITHOUT ARC active, then redo your ARC Measurements with the other active EQ in place. I.e., let ARC refine what the other active EQ is achieving rather than the other way around.


Personally, I found I could turn off the EQ built into my Velodyne DD series subwoofer and let ARC do all the work. The results were easily superior to the best I'd been able to achieve with my highly hand-tweaked setup using the parametric EQ built into the DD.

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15337177
> 
> 
> The results were easily superior to the best I'd been able to achieve with my highly hand-tweaked setup using the parametric EQ built into the DD.
> 
> --Bob



WOW, that's impressive, thanks Bob.


----------



## jayray

Bob,

did some more measurements with 1.2.13 and got the 0 db room gain again for music. Did not upload but reloaded the saved user settings. I'm assuming this would restore what I had uploaded before. Clearly as you have mentioned before, this is not ready for primetime, well at least as far as measuring is concerned. I will say, however, the more I listen to this ARC version at 20K, the more I appreciate the overall soundstage and detail while maintaining the previous improvement on LFE.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15337787
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> did some more measurements with 1.2.13 and got the 0 db room gain again for music. Did not upload but reloaded the saved user settings. I'm assuming this would restore what I had uploaded before. Clearly as you have mentioned before, this is not ready for primetime, well at least as far as measuring is concerned. I will say, however, the more I listen to this ARC version at 20K, the more I appreciate the overall soundstage and detail while maintaining the previous improvement on LFE.
> 
> John



You are probably OK just reloading your Saved User Settings. I don't believe ARC Measurement alters anything in the previously Uploaded set of ARC Room Correction parameters.


Did you zero out your speaker volume trims before Measurement again this time? If so, then that's not a cure for whatever oddness is going on here in the Measurements and the resulting preliminary processing.


----------------------------------------


ETA: Remember that the ARC Room Correction parameters are stored separately in the Anthem. They are not part of the Setup menu for example. They are not saved or reloaded as part of the set of Saved User or Installer Settings.


In addition to the Room Correction parameters, ARC also makes speaker configuration, crossover, and volume trim setting adjustments in the Setup menu itself. These changes CAN be captured in and restored from Saved User or Installer Settings.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I did zero out again. What would you suggest I do?

John


Should I upload my previous good ARC measurements?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15338001
> 
> 
> I did zero out again. What would you suggest I do?
> 
> John



There's nothing you can do as far as I know, other than report the reoccurrence of the problem to Nick at Anthem (attach your saved file of ARC results from the latest Measurements).


I've not heard back from him yet on what if anything the engineers might have gleaned from the files I previously sent him, but I'm hopeful that there will be some fixes in the next "test" version.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15329145
> 
> 
> ......... Some devices have filtering on their Component outputs that reduce horizontal video resolution. I doubt this is true for the 5910, but look for that too.
> 
> --Bob



Sorry, Bob, but I think you lost me there. Would you like to clue me in on how to tell whether there is a filter, please? Thanks.

-Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15338067
> 
> 
> Sorry, Bob, but I think you lost me there. Would you like to clue me in on how to tell whether there is a filter, please? Thanks.
> 
> -Ben



Play a calibration DVD. Find a resolution chart and look for indications of horizontal resolution. For example, Avia puts horizontal border strips on some charts made up of 1 pixel wide, short vertical lines, but there are other types of horizontal resolution indicators as well. The vertically oriented converging wedges being the most common.


Be sure you have the basic levels set properly for Component and for HDMI (they may be different). In particular, make sure you have Sharpness set properly -- not high enough to cause even a hint of "haloing" either side of vertical edges, but not low enough to soften the image.


Now compare what you get over HDMI with what you get over Component. If you see better horizontal resolution with HDMI than with Component, then the Component output of the player has bandwidth filtering in its analog (Component) video output stage.


There's no technical reason why properly engineered Component shouldn't be able to deliver the full horizontal resolution found on SD-DVDs but some players filter it anyway in a misguided attempt to "clean up" crappy content or make life easier for less capable displays. Bandwidth filtering is also applied when less capable video DACs are used in the source -- necessary to keep the lower quality video DACs from producing artifacts when they try, and fail, to convert the highest frequency parts of the video signal. Since the HDMI video signal is digital, the video DACs aren't involved in the signal path, and so the filtering isn't necessary.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

OK, Bob. Thanks so much for your tutorial.

-Ben


----------



## AllThumbs

I have tried a search on this but haven't come up with an answer. I am trying to hook-up a new Wii console to my D2 and cant get the darn thing to work. This was to be a suprise for kids on XMAS, so I'm begining to sweat it out.


I have the Wii connected via component cable output (I believe its putting out 480p video) to Anthem component 2 input, and have audio going to Tape input. I believe I have configured everything correctly in the D2 menus for "Tape", designating component 2 input and analog audio. The is no picture at all (blue screen), and only a hint of audio (get 1 beep when I actuate the handheld Wii controller).


Any ideas what I may be doing wrong? I have tried setting menus using scaling of component 2 and have tried with scaling off. Tried using component 1 input, but still no go. Any help would be much appreciated.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15338067
> 
> 
> Sorry, Bob, but I think you lost me there. Would you like to clue me in on how to tell whether there is a filter, please? Thanks.
> 
> -Ben



Ben,

Your 5910 does not "filter" the signal via component.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AllThumbs* /forum/post/15338544
> 
> 
> I have tried a search on this but haven't come up with an answer. I am trying to hook-up a new Wii console to my D2 and cant get the darn thing to work. This was to be a suprise for kids on XMAS, so I'm begining to sweat it out.
> 
> 
> I have the Wii connected via component cable output (I believe its putting out 480p video) to Anthem component 2 input, and have audio going to Tape input. I believe I have configured everything correctly in the D2 menus for "Tape", designating component 2 input and analog audio. The is no picture at all (blue screen), and only a hint of audio (get 1 beep when I actuate the handheld Wii controller).
> 
> 
> Any ideas what I may be doing wrong? I have tried setting menus using scaling of component 2 and have tried with scaling off. Tried using component 1 input, but still no go. Any help would be much appreciated.



If your problem is a setting in the Wii I won't be able to help you, but the most common mistake people make setting up the D2 for Component input (and HDMI output) is failing to realize that you need to make entries in two different lines in Setup > Source Setup. You have to put Component in the Scaler Input line and you also have to specify the set of Component jacks in the Component In line.


Also double check that you have the Component cables from the Wii connected to a set of Component INPUT jacks on the D2 and not to the Component OUTPUT jacks.


-----------------------------------------


I take it you are using a stereo audio RCA cable pair from the Wii. This should be pretty simple. The most common mistake is misreading the labeling on the D2's back panel and thus connecting up to a pair of stereo audio input jacks different from what you intended.


If you are using the stereo audio input jacks for Tape (and again, be sure you are using input jacks and not output jacks), then in Setup > Source Setup > Tape, use Audio In = ANLG DSP, and Auto Dig = NO.


-----------------------------------------


Finally, if you are using the remote control supplied with the D2, remember that you change input sources by using the buttons near the BOTTOM of the remote. The buttons near the TOP of the remote are for configuring the remote itself to control devices other than the D2.


And be sure you have the remote set to control the Main path of the D2 (rather than Zone 2, Zone 3, or Record) -- press the "Main" button in the green outlined section at the upper left of the remote.

--Bob


----------



## AllThumbs

Thank you Bob. I rechecked that and started from scratch, and for whatever reason - things are working now.


I have lurked here for some time and absolutely love my D2. Part of this great experience has been the help you provide to the rest of us at this forum. Happy Holidays to you!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Cool! Must have been fixed by elves.


Remember if the kids are waving around that danged Wii controller, have it strapped tightly to their mitts so they don't accidentally fling it through your display!

--Bob


----------



## rsnodgrass

My D2 occasionally (once a week) starts up and introduces flashes, random data, or black diagonal scan lines into the picture. Tonight I started to play a 1080p Blu-Ray from my PS3 1080p HDMI -> D2 -> HDMI 1080p output to my Sony 70" TV. Once I turned off and turned back on my D2 the problem went away.


Usually I see the black diagonal lines (about 20-30 on the screen at once) scrolling up the screen. Turning on and off the D2 usually resolves this.


Has anyone else experienced this? I am running v1.33.


----------



## ninja12

As the title shows, I have the D2 with 1.33 and ARC 1.2.5. I decided, for the first time, to change the default frequency from 5khz to 20khz to see if I could hear a difference. The answer is F--CKING YES!!!!! I don't know what happened other than my system opened up like I have never heard it before. I decided to post my measurements so that you guys to take a look. I know I have some nulls; but, I may just have to live with them. All I know right now is that my system has risen to another level, and I am loving the H-LL out of it.









http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...a12d2/ARC1.jpg 
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...a12d2/ARC2.jpg


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15341899
> 
> 
> As the title shows, I have the D2 with 1.33 and ARC 1.2.5. I decided, for the first time, to change the default frequency from 5khz to 20khz to see if I could hear a difference. The answer is F--CKING YES!!!!! I don't know what happened other than my system opened up like I have never heard it before. I decided to post my measurements so that you guys to take a look. I know I have some nulls; but, I may just have to live with them. All I know right now is that my system has risen to another level, and I am loving the H-LL out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...a12d2/ARC1.jpg
> http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...a12d2/ARC2.jpg



Those charts look very good indeed.


You've got one residual wiggle in the RF speaker either side of 450Hz that might get better if you pull back just a bit from 20KHz. Try a set of calculations to see how high you can go before that wiggle becomes prominent. Look for a good compromise setting. It may be as close as 18KHz. Or if that wiggle proves stubborn, just live with it as your high frequencies look like they can use the assistance ARC is giving up there.


Your basic speaker volume level is around 72dB. Raising Noise Level a bit in the Setup menu might get you closer to 75dB, but there are really no issues I can see with just leaving things right where they are. I don't see any signs ARC is struggling for a solution because the volume was too low on its sweep tones.


Your Room Gain is a little lower than we've seen in other charts. You might want to experiment with "forcing" a bit more Room Gain than what ARC has decided is the natural gain for your listening room. It looks like ARC found, and is preserving, about 2dB of Room Gain. You might want to play around with the range 2.5 to 3.5 to see if you like that sound better. Some folks like more Room Gain for Movies than for Music.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsnodgrass* /forum/post/15341879
> 
> 
> My D2 occasionally (once a week) starts up and introduces flashes, random data, or black diagonal scan lines into the picture. Tonight I started to play a 1080p Blu-Ray from my PS3 1080p HDMI -> D2 -> HDMI 1080p output to my Sony 70" TV. Once I turned off and turned back on my D2 the problem went away.
> 
> 
> Usually I see the black diagonal lines (about 20-30 on the screen at once) scrolling up the screen. Turning on and off the D2 usually resolves this.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this? I am running v1.33.



Try putting in a bit more delay between when your TV turns on and when the D2 turns on. The D2 may be trying to set up things with the TV a little before the TV is ready to handle its part of the handshake.


Bring up the Video Source Adjust > Patterns displays (the internally generated test charts) to confirm that the problem is on the output side of the D2 and not on the source side. Check the Video Source Adjust > Info panel to confirm the video input and output resolutions you are expecting are actually happening.

--Bob


----------



## rsnodgrass




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15341960
> 
> 
> Try putting in a bit more delay between when your TV turns on and when the D2 turns on. The D2 may be trying to set up things with the TV a little before the TV is ready to handle its part of the handshake.



Great idea Bob! Hadn't thought of it a possible handshake issue. I'll definitely introduce more delay between the startup of the TV and D2.



> Quote:
> Bring up the Video Source Adjust > Patterns displays (the internally generated test charts) to confirm that the problem is on the output side of the D2 and not on the source side. Check the Video Source Adjust > Info panel to confirm the video input and output resolutions you are expecting are actually happening.



This happens with a number of different sources (PS3, TiVo, etc) so I don't think it is a source issue.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/15338774
> 
> 
> Ben,
> 
> Your 5910 does not "filter" the signal via component.



Hi, thanks Milt99. It's great comfort to receive confirmation from a fellow user. It's a fine piece of equipment to own, though, with the D2 around, it's features are a bit superflous. Pity I acquired it before I got acquainted with Anthem.

-Ben


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15341950
> 
> 
> Those charts look very good indeed.
> 
> 
> You've got one residual wiggle in the RF speaker either side of 450Hz that might get better if you pull back just a bit from 20KHz. Try a set of calculations to see how high you can go before that wiggle becomes prominent. Look for a good compromise setting. It may be as close as 18KHz. Or if that wiggle proves stubborn, just live with it as your high frequencies look like they can use the assistance ARC is giving up there.
> 
> 
> Your basic speaker volume level is around 72dB. Raising Noise Level a bit in the Setup menu might get you closer to 75dB, but there are really no issues I can see with just leaving things right where they are. I don't see any signs ARC is struggling for a solution because the volume was too low on its sweep tones.
> 
> 
> Your Room Gain is a little lower than we've seen in other charts. You might want to experiment with "forcing" a bit more Room Gain than what ARC has decided is the natural gain for your listening room. It looks like ARC found, and is preserving, about 2dB of Room Gain. You might want to play around with the range 2.5 to 3.5 to see if you like that sound better. Some folks like more Room Gain for Movies than for Music.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob for looking at my charts. To resolve the residual wiggle in the RF, I changed the room gain from 2db to 3db. The 2db room gain was forced by me. When I run ARC, I don't get any room gain. I'm pretty sure it's because of the null in my LF and RF. So, ARC decides to set my room gain at 0db. Anyway, could you please take another look at my charts and let me know what you think? The charts are 20khz with a 3db forced room gain.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...RC1_122008.jpg 
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...2_122008-2.jpg


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsnodgrass* /forum/post/15341879
> 
> 
> My D2 occasionally (once a week) starts up and introduces flashes, random data, or black diagonal scan lines into the picture. Tonight I started to play a 1080p Blu-Ray from my PS3 1080p HDMI -> D2 -> HDMI 1080p output to my Sony 70" TV. Once I turned off and turned back on my D2 the problem went away.
> 
> 
> Usually I see the black diagonal lines (about 20-30 on the screen at once) scrolling up the screen. Turning on and off the D2 usually resolves this.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this? I am running v1.33.



What 70" Sony do you have ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15343571
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob for looking at my charts. To resolve the residual wiggle in the RF, I changed the room gain from 2db to 3db. The 2db room gain was forced by me. When I run ARC, I don't get any room gain. I'm pretty sure it's because of the null in my LF and RF. So, ARC decides to set my room gain at 0db. Anyway, could you please take another look at my charts and let me know what you think? The charts are 20khz with a 3db forced room gain.
> 
> http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...RC1_122008.jpg
> http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...2_122008-2.jpg



Since I'm used to more Room Gain, I would probably go with those -- or split the difference and use 2.5dB of Room Gain. I agree that your Measured curves for LF and RF are confusing ARC into thinking your room has no natural Room Gain.


You are just slightly under-corrected between 50Hz and 100Hz right now in LF/RF. Give it a listen and see if you prefer the sound. You may be used to how your room sounds and too much added Room Gain may sound fuller than you like.


I would still suggest you do some trial Calculations reducing Max EQ Target Frequency a bit from 20KHz to see if a modest reduction cleans up some more of the wiggles without reducing too much the good results you've got now up there.


At this point you are close enough to perfection that any such changes are likely to be pretty subtle. What you've got in these curves (and the prior set) should sound very good indeed as is.

--Bob


----------



## kmcadillac44

Well I made the jump! Will be installing the D2 w/ ARC Tuesday! I also bought a Sony BDP-S550 to decode the Dolbly Digitial True HD and DTS - Master Audio (sound is already much better on my B&K Reference 50 S2 through analog inputs). I'm looking forward to getting the a/b between the B&K and the D2. I hope the delta between them is as big as the one between normal DTS and DTS Master Audio! I'm upgrading to a Epson 1080p projector as well - should be a fun couple of weeks over break playing with the new toys!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kmcadillac44* /forum/post/15345201
> 
> 
> Well I made the jump! Will be installing the D2 w/ ARC Tuesday! I also bought a Sony BDP-S550 to decode the Dolbly Digitial True HD and DTS - Master Audio (sound is already much better on my B&K Reference 50 S2 through analog inputs). I'm looking forward to getting the a/b between the B&K and the D2. I hope the delta between them is as big as the one between normal DTS and DTS Master Audio! I'm upgrading to a Epson 1080p projector as well - should be a fun couple of weeks over break playing with the new toys!



Santa really came through for you!

--Bob


----------



## kmcadillac44

The analog inputs on the B&K seem to have a much lower gain than the other inputs - is that the case on the D2 as well?


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kmcadillac44* /forum/post/15345201
> 
> 
> Well I made the jump! Will be installing the D2 w/ ARC Tuesday! I also bought a Sony BDP-S550 to decode the Dolbly Digitial True HD and DTS - Master Audio (sound is already much better on my B&K Reference 50 S2 through analog inputs). I'm looking forward to getting the a/b between the B&K and the D2. I hope the delta between them is as big as the one between normal DTS and DTS Master Audio! I'm upgrading to a Epson 1080p projector as well - should be a fun couple of weeks over break playing with the new toys!



Congratulations kmcadillac44, you will love it!

____________________________________________________



So we had people over last night for a Christmas party and I was getting a bit of hard time about how much money I spend on my theatre. It kind of pisses me off. It’s my hobby, it's what I enjoy and frankly it's MY MONEY. Why do people feel the need to give you their opinion on what they think you should be doing? The same guy saying dude why do you keep blowing money making you stereo better has spent 50 grand traveling to Jamaica and Mexico in the last five years??? Stuff like that just drives me nuts!


Rant over!


----------



## kmcadillac44

I agree Ohdee - everyone chooses what will make them happy - I know my wife and kids will enjoy this with me - makes it worth the price.


Does it makes sense with the D2 to have a seperate input setting for standard DVD's and let the D2 decode it? The S550 decodes the DTS-MA and Dolby True Audio, but will the D2 do a better job on the other material?


----------



## bluemark81

I'm curious how people find their AVM/D2's for two channel music? How does it compare with a dedicated 2 ch pre? Anyone using a dedicated pre with HT bypass for 2 ch? Is there much benefit/improvement in doing so?


----------



## "MIKEY"

What are the recommended D2 video output settings using a Sony PS3 along with a 60" Pioneer Kuro display?


Resolution?

1080i?

or

1080P 24?

or

1080P 60?


Color space?

Data?


Thanks & Happy Holidays to all!


----------



## Narses

Are others still having problems getting the Oppo 980H to play X.0 (e.g. 5.0) SACDs over HDMI correctly.


I have applied the latest Oppo patch and reinstalled V1.33 on the Anthem Statement D2, but problem persists.


Talked with Anthem tech support and all of my settings seemed correct.


Interested in whether others are having the same problem or know of a solution.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Narses* /forum/post/15346115
> 
> 
> Are others still having problems getting the Oppo 980H to play X.0 (e.g. 5.0) SACDs over HDMI correctly.
> 
> 
> I have applied the latest Oppo patch and reinstalled V1.33 on the Anthem Statement D2, but problem persists.
> 
> 
> Talked with Anthem tech support and all of my settings seemed correct.
> 
> 
> Interested in whether others are having the same problem or know of a solution.



It worked fine for me but I had that problem with the Pioneer DV-58 and the D2.


EDIT: That was the 983 with the D2, not the 980.


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Did a remeasurment, zero out of trims etc. The gains came back to the 3.9 area for music and movies. Crossover went up from 80 to 115 for fronts, center stayed at 60. I moved a large ottoman across the room and toed in fronts more accurately. I have posted the first good set from 1.2.13 and my latest. Both are at 20K and the new values from today sound great. The LFE seems a little more prominent in a good way. Wondered if you would check them out and give your two cents









thanks,

John


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15342746
> 
> 
> Hi, thanks Milt99. It's great comfort to receive confirmation from a fellow user. It's a fine piece of equipment to own, though, with the D2 around, it's features are a bit superflous. Pity I acquired it before I got acquainted with Anthem.
> 
> -Ben



No problem Ben









For the last 2.5 years I've only used my 5910 for Hi-Res audio.

The D2 with HD DVD\\Blu-ray have made its video performance a non-factor.

I'm thinking of having it upgraded with some of the internal parts strictly for music.

I still have an affinity for certain pieces of equipment that make a statement.

I know some will snort when I put the 5910 in that class just like I snort when someone sings the praises of Wilson speakers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/15346109
> 
> 
> What are the recommended D2 video output settings using a Sony PS3 along with a 60" Pioneer Kuro display?
> 
> 
> Resolution?
> 
> 1080i?
> 
> or
> 
> 1080P 24?
> 
> or
> 
> 1080P 60?
> 
> 
> Color space?
> 
> Data?
> 
> 
> Thanks & Happy Holidays to all!



For the D2 output, use 1080p/24 for film-based content from Blu-Ray discs -- set the PS3's 1080p/24 output to Auto as well. Use 1080p/60 from the D2 for everything else (including movies from SD-DVD or broadcast TV).


Use HDTV color space.


Try both YCbCr 4:4:4 and YCbCr 4:2:2 to see if one looks better to you than the other. Calibrate video separately both ways before comparing. 4:4:4 is the default data format, but 4:2:2 might look better to you on your Kuro. See the Technology and Terminology posts linked in the first post of this thread for more explanation.


If you can't see a reason to prefer one over the other, use 4:4:4.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15346837
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Did a remeasurment, zero out of trims etc. The gains came back to the 3.9 area for music and movies. Crossover went up from 80 to 115 for fronts, center stayed at 60. I moved a large ottoman across the room and toed in fronts more accurately. I have posted the first good set from 1.2.13 and my latest. Both are at 20K and the new values from today sound great. The LFE seems a little more prominent in a good way. Wondered if you would check them out and give your two cents
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



The second set looks better to me, too. Of course you are getting into subtle differences here. Both sets take care of the heavy lifting for basic room correction.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Thanks Bob. May take a break from testing for a while. The new results seem very good.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15344113
> 
> 
> Since I'm used to more Room Gain, I would probably go with those -- or split the difference and use 2.5dB of Room Gain. I agree that your Measured curves for LF and RF are confusing ARC into thinking your room has no natural Room Gain.
> 
> 
> You are just slightly under-corrected between 50Hz and 100Hz right now in LF/RF. Give it a listen and see if you prefer the sound. You may be used to how your room sounds and too much added Room Gain may sound fuller than you like.
> 
> 
> I would still suggest you do some trial Calculations reducing Max EQ Target Frequency a bit from 20KHz to see if a modest reduction cleans up some more of the wiggles without reducing too much the good results you've got now up there.
> 
> 
> At this point you are close enough to perfection that any such changes are likely to be pretty subtle. What you've got in these curves (and the prior set) should sound very good indeed as is.
> 
> --Bob



This may sound strange; but, this is what I have been observing. I have been playing around with the lower frequencies. It appears that the lower frequencies are looking worse. When I get down to around 15khz and 18khz, the residual at 450hz appears. Overall, the 20khz looks the best. I know one thing, it sounds extremely good. My wife confirmed this for me yesterday. We watched the Dark Knight. After the movie, she asked me what did I do. She said it always sounded good to her; but, now, it sounds extremely good. She was truly amazed by how clean the sound was. Let me remind you that she knows nothing at all about sound. But, she clearly picked up that something with my system has changed, and she liked it. So, I think I will stick to the 20khz. I'm just sorry I waited so long to play around with the different frequencies. Once again, thank you for all of your help and suggestions.


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Narses* /forum/post/15346115
> 
> 
> Are others still having problems getting the Oppo 980H to play X.0 (e.g. 5.0) SACDs over HDMI correctly.
> 
> 
> I have applied the latest Oppo patch and reinstalled V1.33 on the Anthem Statement D2, but problem persists.
> 
> 
> Talked with Anthem tech support and all of my settings seemed correct.
> 
> 
> Interested in whether others are having the same problem or know of a solution.



The 980 even with the latest firmware will not work with the D2 for 3.0, 4.0, or 5.0 SACD discs, you will only get the 2.0 layer. The 983 mates with the D2 nicely for 5.0 SACD's. I am wondering about the forthcoming Oppo BD player, but have not found a beta tester who uses the 83 with a D2 and is able to comment on this question.


----------



## rkphelps

Has anyone else been following the new Oppo BDP-83 on AVS Blu-Ray Player forum?


Would this be a good match with the D2?


How does this compare with the PS3 (my current player)?


Things that I know:


The BDP-83 You can do a Source Direct (resolution changes to the

native resolution of the content source) or Explicit 480i (forced 480i

output) for sd-dvd.


The BDP-83 uses less power


The BDP-83 uses ir for remote vs bluetooth in the PS3


The DBP-83 has multi-channel analog outputs



Thanks

Rob


----------



## bluemark81

I'm curious how people find their AVM/D2's for two channel music? How does it compare with a dedicated 2 ch pre? Anyone using a dedicated pre with HT bypass for 2 ch? Is there much benefit/improvement in doing so?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/15350288
> 
> 
> Has anyone else been following the new Oppo BDP-83 on AVS Blu-Ray Player forum?
> 
> 
> Would this be a good match with the D2?
> 
> 
> How does this compare with the PS3 (my current player)?
> 
> 
> Things that I know:
> 
> 
> The BDP-83 You can do a Source Direct (resolution changes to the
> 
> native resolution of the content source) or Explicit 480i (forced 480i
> 
> output) for sd-dvd.
> 
> 
> The BDP-83 uses less power
> 
> 
> The BDP-83 uses ir for remote vs bluetooth in the PS3
> 
> 
> The DBP-83 has multi-channel analog outputs
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Rob



The folks who know the most crucial stuff about the BDP-83 are still under non-disclosure -- at least until Oppo starts shipping their partially finished "Early Adopter" units.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15347737
> 
> 
> For the D2 output, use 1080p/24 for film-based content from Blu-Ray discs -- set the PS3's 1080p/24 output to Auto as well. Use 1080p/60 from the D2 for everything else (including movies from SD-DVD or broadcast TV).
> 
> 
> Use HDTV color space.
> 
> 
> Try both YCbCr 4:4:4 and YCbCr 4:2:2 to see if one looks better to you than the other. Calibrate video separately both ways before comparing. 4:4:4 is the default data format, but 4:2:2 might look better to you on your Kuro. See the Technology and Terminology posts linked in the first post of this thread for more explanation.
> 
> 
> If you can't see a reason to prefer one over the other, use 4:4:4.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I think you forgot HD-DVD here


----------



## ibg5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15273151
> 
> 
> 1) I can't help you with the settings for your Pioneer display. It would be best to ask in the appropriate display forum thread here. But a 1 inch and 1.5 inch unused strip on either side when using dot-for-dot mode certainly sounds wrong to me.
> 
> 
> 2) Stuttering when using 1080p most often is due to using 1080p/24 when you shouldn't. 1080p/24 output from the Anthem should only be used when the source content itself is 1080p/24 (i.e., it is "film-based" frame rate content that is being sent to the Anthem as 1080p/24 as from a Blu-Ray player). Attempting to play "video based" frame rate content at 1080p/24 will always give you stuttering since there is no good way to convert real 1080p/60 video based content to 1080p/24 -- i.e., no way to decide which frames to throw away. And the Anthem does not properly convert film-based 1080i/60 or 1080p/60 content to 1080p/24 output so you can't even use 1080p/24 output for those. You can either set up two different Video Output configurations (one for 1080p/60 and one for 1080p/24), or you can use the Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock = Auto setting with a given source to have the Anthem match the output video frame rate to what's currently coming in on the input.
> 
> 
> 3) YPbPr and YCbCr are basically the same thing, and the terms are often (mistakenly) used interchangeably. Correctly, YPbPr refers to an analog video signal (e.g., Component video) and YCbCr refers to a digital video signal (e.g., HDMI). It is common for cable and satellite boxes to use the term YPbPr to refer to both. But that doesn't change what comes in over HDMI for example. However, if you are using a mix of Component and HDMI video sources, keep in mind that there is no particular reason why the best video input level settings (Video Source Adjust > Picture) for HDMI sources should be the same as the best settings for Component sources. You need to calibrate each source separately.
> 
> --Bob



Hi, Bob!

1) I`m - radio engineer and in a condition to understand many things. In this case, when you connect, for example, STB, directly to the display (passing D2) strips are not observed. It is possible to get rid of these strips by means of Edges On=12. But thus the image looks increased and to look such image Ã¤Ã¨Ã±ÃªÃ®Ã¬Ã´Ã®Ã°Ã²Ã*Ã®. In my opinion it is problem D2.

2) It too problem D2. Such at me it was observed with former D2 (factory number 131898). Now at me other copy D2, but at it the same effect. To check up very simply. It is possible to connect DVD directly to the display. Such effect will not be.

3) I already repeatedly asked you a question: WHAT FOR it is necessary to transform original colour space of a source (in this case - SD) in HD? You answer: SO it is necessary. The pier, D2 should define the necessary colour space in mode Auto. I think, that the ORIGINAL colour space of a source SHOULD remain the invariable. D2 and so transforms 576i/50 Hz in 1080p/50 Hz. It - is correct. It - is necessary. And here to transform colour space - whether it is expedient? As D2 does it not quite correctly (in mode Auto puts 4:4:4, instead of 4:2:2 which looks much more naturally).


And still a question. At me it is involved more than one configuration of a source. For example, SAT1 and SAT2. For transition in mode Simulcast: "Press and hold the desired video source button for 2 seconds. The display showsÂ Video Source Âand the

video source in the top line, and ÂSELECT AUDIO SOURCEÂ in the bottom line - while this is on the display,

press another source button to select the audio source. "

Thus there is a cyclic switching between SAT1 and SAT2. Anthem plans correction it is an old bug?









Best regards!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ibg5* /forum/post/15354657
> 
> 
> Hi, Bob!
> 
> 1) I`m - radio engineer and in a condition to understand many things. In this case, when you connect, for example, STB, directly to the display (passing D2) strips are not observed. It is possible to get rid of these strips by means of Edges On=12. But thus the image looks increased and to look such image Ã¤Ã¨Ã±ÃªÃ®Ã¬Ã´Ã®Ã°Ã²Ã*Ã®. In my opinion it is problem D2.
> 
> 2) It too problem D2. Such at me it was observed with former D2 (factory number 131898). Now at me other copy D2, but at it the same effect. To check up very simply. It is possible to connect DVD directly to the display. Such effect will not be.
> 
> 3) I already repeatedly asked you a question: WHAT FOR it is necessary to transform original colour space of a source (in this case - SD) in HD? You answer: SO it is necessary. The pier, D2 should define the necessary colour space in mode Auto. I think, that the ORIGINAL colour space of a source SHOULD remain the invariable. D2 and so transforms 576i/50 Hz in 1080p/50 Hz. It - is correct. It - is necessary. And here to transform colour space - whether it is expedient? As D2 does it not quite correctly (in mode Auto puts 4:4:4, instead of 4:2:2 which looks much more naturally).
> 
> 
> And still a question. At me it is involved more than one configuration of a source. For example, SAT1 and SAT2. For transition in mode Simulcast: "Press and hold the desired video source button for 2 seconds. The display showsÂ Video Source Âand the
> 
> video source in the top line, and ÂSELECT AUDIO SOURCEÂ in the bottom line - while this is on the display,
> 
> press another source button to select the audio source. "
> 
> Thus there is a cyclic switching between SAT1 and SAT2. Anthem plans correction it is an old bug?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best regards!



The Simulcast selection problem when using overlayed inputs (e.g., SAT1 / SAT2) is a bug. I know it has been previously reported to Anthem, but I don't know if they can fix it without messing up the way you otherwise use overlayed inputs. I suggest you send an email to Anthem tech support to nudge them to fix this.


-----------------------------------


As I said, the most common cause of the stuttering you report is telling the D2 to output 1080p/24 when you shouldn't be doing that. The DVD player is likely not sending out 1080p/24 -- thus no stuttering when you connect the DVD player directly to the display.


-----------------------------------


Do not confuse "color space" with "data format". The choice of SD or HD color space is independent of the choice of YCbCr 4:4:4 or YCbCr 4:2:2 (or either flavor of RGB) data format. The choice of output data format is entirely based on what works best with your display. If YCbCr 4:2:2 works best with your display then that's what you should use. But YCbCr 4:4:4 is the default data format for HDMI to HDMI connections, so it is not surprising that using Data Format = Auto for output from the D2 results in YCbCr 4:4:4. Again, if you are seeing better results with YCbCr 4:2:2 then set that one as the output Data Format.


The contents on a disc are actually YCbCr 4:2:0 -- which no player will output. And most players do not offer the option of YCbCr 4:2:2 output either. So you are likely getting YCbCr 4:4:4 from the player.


Meanwhile, "color space" refers to the math used to convert between YCbCr (the data on disc or in broadcast programs) and the RGB the display eventually needs to convert it to before it can light up the pixels. As I've said before, it is standard in the industry that SD color space is used for SD resolution connections and HD color space is used for HD resolution connections. That means, whenever scaling happens between SD and HD resolution a color space conversion also happens by standard agreement.


----------------------------------------------------------


I don't know what's going on with your display that would produce the strips on either side that you report. However, if you would like to list your D2 settings, I'll see if I can spot any problems in your settings. I've not seen any other reports of a problem like this from the D2.


I will need your Source Setup (for that input device) and Video Output configuration settings from the Setup menu. I will also need the Picture, Crop Input, Scale Out, and Output settings from the Video Source Adjust menu for that input (press and hold the "7" key while viewing that source).


Also, from the Video Source Adjust menu (while viewing that source), go to the Info panel and report what it shows for video input and video output.


Finally, in the Video Source Adjust menu, go to the Patterns panel and bring up any of the internally generated test charts the Anthem can produce. Report whether the strips are present when viewing any of those charts or whether those charts fill the screen correctly.


----------------------------------------------


You said you did not see the strips when the player was directly connected to the display. What video resolution was the player sending to the display? What video resolution do you have the Anthem set to send to the display?

--Bob


----------



## jlwine

I have my living room television connected to my AVM 50 via HDMI--I send the same information to my kitchen television via component pass-through. I can only get my Sony Blu-Ray to send picture to both monitors if I have the player output 1080i. If I have 1080p only the HDMI signal works. How much am I sacrificing by having the player do 1080i instead of 1080p and having Anthem do the 1080p upconvert instead?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlwine* /forum/post/15357673
> 
> 
> I have my living room television connected to my AVM 50 via HDMI--I send the same information to my kitchen television via component pass-through. I can only get my Sony Blu-Ray to send picture to both monitors if I have the player output 1080i. If I have 1080p only the HDMI signal works. How much am I sacrificing by having the player do 1080i instead of 1080p and having Anthem do the 1080p upconvert instead?



Any time you do extra processing like that there is a chance of introducing artifacts. But it is trivially easy for the player to output 1080i/59.94 from 1080p/23.976 Blu-Ray content (and of course there's no work for the player to do for 1080i/59.94 Blu-Ray content), and the D2 does an excellent job of de-interlacing 1080i to 1080p.


So I doubt you'll notice any difference.


Be sure to use 1080p/59.94 output from the D2. Do not try to convert the 1080i/59.94 input from the player back to 1080p/23.976 output in the D2. That conversion does not work properly in the D2. [I'm hopeful this can be done right in the D2 v.2.]

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex

Ok...I'm sooo proud of myself. It took me two weeks to get the courage and a day off from work to do it; but it's DONE. I've officially upgraded my AVM 50 with the new DSP board and ARC software. With the exception of one glitch (subwoofer db was to high - forced a redo) everything went great. It just took a long long time.


So far I've run the ARC software in advanced mode. I took in everyone's suggestions about sub this, 20 mhz that, polarity this and so on. Now I have a bunch of grafts and I HAVE NO IDEA what they mean. I mean it...I really have no idea if this is good or bad. For all I know I just screwed the pooch and made things worse.


Can someone please read these things and tell me what to do next. I just uploaded them into my system and I'm about to go listen. Lets hope it sounds better.


One last question...the software suggested I turn on the ROOM EQ for all sources. Is that a necessity and why?


Thanks everyone for all the help and encouragement. Special thanks to my new friend in Austin, lalarsons who gave me the confidence to "just do it".


----------



## Big Tex

I just uploaded the ARC into my system and it blew away all my installer settings. If I reload my installer settings, will it blow away all the ARC settings?


How do I keep the two from writing over each other? I had already loaded the installer settings prior to running ARC thinking ARC would ONLY change the damn speaker calibration settings...NOT everything. Now I'm back to the default factory settings. Shxxxxxxxxxx....


What do I do now? Reload the installer settings and hope it doesn't blow away ARC? It's obvious ARC has loaded. There are all kinds of crazy settings for my speakers. Now I have no sources to listen to.


Arggggggggggggggggggggggg. So tired. Help please....


I also had to reload my damn video settings because when I upgraded the DSP I had to back those up and reload them. I can't tell if the video settings reloaded because my sources are all screwed up because it's back to factory.


I'm running ARC 1.2.5 and AVM 50 1.33.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15360438
> 
> 
> Ok...I'm sooo proud of myself. It took me two weeks to get the courage and a day off from work to do it; but it's DONE. I've officially upgraded my AVM 50 with the new DSP board and ARC software. With the exception of one glitch (subwoofer db was to high - forced a redo) everything went great. It just took a long long time.
> 
> 
> So far I've run the ARC software in advanced mode. I took in everyone's suggestions about sub this, 20 mhz that, polarity this and so on. Now I have a bunch of grafts and I HAVE NO IDEA what they mean. I mean it...I really have no idea if this is good or bad. For all I know I just screwed the pooch and made things worse.
> 
> 
> Can someone please read these things and tell me what to do next. I just uploaded them into my system and I'm about to go listen. Lets hope it sounds better.
> 
> 
> One last question...the software suggested I turn on the ROOM EQ for all sources. Is that a necessity and why?
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for all the help and encouragement. Special thanks to my new friend in Austin, lalarsons who gave me the confidence to "just do it".



The Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ setting tells the Anthem whether or not to use the ARC Room Correction stuff you just uploaded when listening to that source. You should definitely turn it on for every source. If you have defined overlayed sources with different settings (e.g., DVD1 vs. DVD2 vs. DVD3, etc.), then make sure Room EQ is turned on for each of them.


-----------------------------------------


The charts look OK for a first go. In fact your front speakers look fine and dandy. But your side and rear surround speakers are having real problems.


First some explanation: The chart for each speaker shows the frequency response curves for each speaker -- the volume the speaker is generating at various frequencies, keeping in mind that the volume is being altered by the characteristics of your room (which is what ARC works to correct).


There are 3 curves on each chart. The RED curve is the average of all of the ARC Measurements for that given speaker across all of the mic positions you used. The black DASHED curve is the Target curve ARC thinks would be ideal for this speaker (based on the Measurements for ALL the speakers). And the GREEN curve is the Calculated curve showing how close ARC thinks it can get that speaker to the Target using the Room Correction parameters it just Calculated for you.


Now if you look at the charts for the Left Front (LF) and Right Front (RF) speakers, and even for the Center (C) speaker, you see pretty good results.


The red Measured curve for those three speakers shows quite a bit of wobbling about, but the green Calculated curve for them shows that ARC believes it can correct essentially all of that and get the corrected response for each of those 3 speakers very close to the Target.


You see the same sort of thing for the Subwoofer curve.


Now look more closely at, say the LF chart. Note that the Target curve is flat in the middle. Then going left (lower frequencies from there) you get into the crossover frequency regions. You'll see a gentle hump in the Target curve there and eventually, when you go further down towards the lowest frequencies, the response of the speaker drops off -- the natural drop off for speakers like these (which is why you have a subwoofer to fill in down there. The "hump" near the crossover frequencies (i.e., where use of the main speakers transitions to use of the subwoofer) represents the desireable "Room Gain" of your listening room. ARC has detected that and works to preserve it even as it is eliminating the other wiggles in the red Measured curve. You'll also notice a gradual drop off of the Target curve at the highest frequencies. ARC has decided this is the best Target for this speaker up there so as to avoid stressing the speaker or your power amp.


Now look at the volume level for the flat part of the Target curve in the middle of that chart -- to the right of the Room Gain hump. It's about 74dB for your setup. This is what I call the "basic volume level" that ARC is targeting for your setup. 74dB is good, and shows you are doing your ARC Measurements at an appropriate volume for the test sweep tones.


Next look at the Subwoofer curve. Again the green Calculated curve is a good match to the black, dashed Target curve, showing that ARC thinks it can correct all of the wiggles it Measured for your Subwoofer. Note that you've got a hump in the Subwoofer Calculated/Target curves near the crossover region. Now move your eye to the left down from that hump and find the frequency where the Calculated/Target curve reaches the "basic level" we just found above in the LF speaker chart. In your case that's at about 35Hz. This is a good way to gauge how low your subwoofer can go and still produce good output. Note that the subwoofer curves drop off significantly at frequencies lower than that.


Now a sub good down to 35Hz is pretty typical for home theater setups, so this is not surprising. But there are subs that can go deeper. If you replace your sub with a new sub of proper size for your room, designed to go deeper, you could gain up to another octave of lower frequency goodness (an "octave" is a halving or a doubling of a frequency -- in your case a top quality sub might get you good response down to just below 20Hz. The region below 30Hz can be considered the "subsonics". You don't so much hear them as feel them. So just something to keep in mind for the future: Your sub is OK now, and seems to be performing properly, but when it comes time to replace it, look for a good sub spec'ed to go down to 20Hz or 16Hz and big enough to handle the cubic feet of air space in your listening room. Subs work by "pressurizing" the room -- all of it, all at once. So you need a sub big enough to huff enough air to do that for the lowest frequencies.


The higher frequency response from your subwoofer looks fine. It is supposed to drop off smoothly just like that to get a good transition between sound coming from the sub and sound coming from your main speakers -- the "crossover" frequencies.


Next look at the Center (C) speaker chart. Note that the red Measured curve shows more substantial wobbles than your LF and RF speakers -- meaning ARC has to do more correction. Next note that the green Calculated curve doesn't quite match up to the dashed Target curve at two portions of the chart -- near 100Hz and near 15KHz. The speaker needed more correction for the Measured dips near those frequencies than ARC could provide. The remaining, residual error near those frequencies is around 3dB -- not too bad considering what's being corrected, but not as good as you would like. The real culprit here is the big dip near 100Hz. You might be able to improve the Measurements from your Center speaker (and thus reduce the amount of correction ARC has to do) by trying to tackle what's going on there. Check the manual for your Center speaker to see if it has any frequency response controls for low frequency output that you can adjust. Some speakers have "bass port" holes which you can open or close. If so, open it. You may also be able to reduce wall reflections near the Center speaker which would keep the reflected sound from canceling out the "real" sound. Again, ARC should now be making your Center speaker sound A LOT better, but it could be better still if you can discover why it has that Measured dip near 100Hz and fix it.


-----------------------------------------------


Now, given the exercises above, you should now know enough to be aghast at the charts for your 4 surround speakers.


All 4 of them are very weak in low mid-range and have almost no high frequency output. To help you gauge this, keep in mind that 6dB up or down is the equivalent of doubling or having the volume respectively.


All 4 of your surround speakers are down something like *16dB* at 15KHz (compare the red Measured curve to the desired, dashed Target curve at that frequency). If I saw this in just one speaker I'd say the speaker was broken -- that you had blown out the "tweeter" high frequency cone in that speaker. To see it from all 4 suggests to me that you just might not have very good surround speakers, or that there is something wrong with the power amp you are using to drive them. The low mid-range response from all 4 of them is also off, although not quite so dramatically. ARC has set the crossover for all 4 of them up near 150Hz (i.e., it is sending lower frequencies intended for them to the subwoofer instead) to try to avoid their low frequency response.


You are losing A LOT of quality in your surround audio right now, and it is well beyond what ARC can correct. I would recommend you consider replacing your 4 surround speakers. Now if you look at what ARC has done for each of these surround speakers between 150Hz and 5KHz you'll see the green Calculated curve looks much better than the red Measured curve. That's good, and the surround sound you get will be better than without ARC, but it could be so much better still.


--------------------------------------------------


I want to emphasize here that I don't think you made any mistakes in the way you did your ARC setup. And the audio you get using these ARC results will likely sound quite a bit better than what you had before.


Typically at this point I'd talk about adjusting your surround speaker mountings to get them closer to seated ear height and pointed better towards the seating positions. But the results from your set of surround speakers strikes me as worse than you could likely fix by doing that.


So don't think for a minute that you messed up here! It's obvious from your LF/RF and Sub curves that you did the ARC setup correctly. It's just that ARC is telling you you have a real problem in your surround speakers (either poor quality speakers or something broken). I don't know how long you've been using those surround speakers but it could easily be that you thought they were working just fine (since all 4 of them put out mid frequency range volume) without ever realizing what you were missing!


------------------------------------------------


To get an idea of just how good this stuff could be, try this: Play some stereo content (e.g., CDs) and select simple "Stereo" mode on your Anthem (no THX stuff turned on either) so that only the LF/RF speakers and subwoofer are used to play the music -- no center speaker and none of the surround speakers. Sit down in your primary listening position and hear how good it sounds with the corrections ARC is providing. Based on your charts, it should sound TREMENDOUS.


Your surround sound could sound just as good, but you need to get those 4 surround speakers fixed/replaced.


Don't be scared off by this. ARC has given you the tools to see what your system is really achieving. And you'll likely hear substantially improved audio with ARC even now -- without doing anything additional yet!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15360570
> 
> 
> I just uploaded the ARC into my system and it blew away all my installer settings. If I reload my installer settings, will it blow away all the ARC settings?
> 
> 
> How do I keep the two from writing over each other? I had already loaded the installer settings prior to running ARC thinking ARC would ONLY change the damn speaker calibration settings...NOT everything. Now I'm back to the default factory settings. Shxxxxxxxxxx....
> 
> 
> What do I do now? Reload the installer settings and hope it doesn't blow away ARC? It's obvious ARC has loaded. There are all kinds of crazy settings for my speakers. Now I have no sources to listen to.
> 
> 
> Arggggggggggggggggggggggg. So tired. Help please....
> 
> 
> I also had to reload my damn video settings because when I upgraded the DSP I had to back those up and reload them. I can't tell if the video settings reloaded because my sources are all screwed up because it's back to factory.
> 
> 
> I'm running ARC 1.2.5 and AVM 50 1.33.



This is easy to fix. You have been bitten by a somewhat rare bug, but since you have your Installer Settings saved you can fix it.


Power off the Anthem with the remote. Then power cycle the Anthem with its back panel power switch to get a completely fresh start. Then power on the Anthem with the remote.


Now go into the Setup menu and Reload Saved Installer Settings. If you don't have video, you can do this via the Front Panel display. You'll now have video again, and all your Source Setup stuff will be restored.


Once that completes, go to the PC and open up your saved file of ARC results in Advanced mode. The charts will display. Then click on Upload.


I do not know WHY this sometimes happens to people (ARC Upload resetting all the Setup settings to factory defaults), but it only seems to happen once.


After the ARC Upload completes, go into your Setup menu and see if everything is as you want it to be. At that point I suggest you Save User Settings to capture the changes that ARC has made into that memory. Keep your Installer settings just the way the are for now.


----------------------------------------------------


If you have to reload your Video Source Adjust menu settings (from Live Video Settings Editor on the PC), you can do that after you complete the steps above. By that point, everything in the Setup menu and the Video Source Adjust menu should be correct (including the adjustments ARC makes). Do another Save User Settings to make sure your reloaded Video Source Adjust menu settings are also captured into that memory.

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex

Bob,


Thanks for all the education and suggestions...!!! Wow...where to start. Lets start with a little about my system and maybe that will lead to some additional suggestions (replace or reconfigure).


AVM 50 processor, MCA 50 and MCA 20 Amps, B&W CDM fronts and center, JVC RS1, PS3, XBOX, Oppo, Time Warner cable, etc.


My surrounds are all the same. Ironically they're THX certified Atlantic Technology System 20 SR surrounds. They're supposed to be good, so I thought. Maybe I'm not utilizing them properly; VERY likely. They're installed in the ceiling and firing in the downward position (is that bad?) The walls were not an optionat least for the surrounds. I could install the back speakers in the wall if necessary. The speaker switch is set to Dipole (Bipole is the other option). I have 4 of them all facing down from a 10 foot ceiling.


My subwoofer is a Velodyne HGS-12 (8 years old). The amp is rated for 1250 watts. It's probably a digital amp but it gets loud. Time for a new one???? Settings are: phase set at zero, internal cross over turned off, subsonic set to 20 Hz, and the volume is set to 3 out of 10 per ARC. I had the volume at 5 and ARC freaked, it made me turn the volume down to 3 to be in the parameters (-12.5 to 12.5 db)


Based on this data do you have any other thoughts or suggestions?


I'm sooo tired. I never thought a stereo upgrade would wear me out like this. I've been at this for 8+ hours.


I really really really appreciate you taking the time to put together that thoughtful and detailed response. I'm going to read it thoroughly here in an hour. For now I'm going to take a break. I so frustrated.


If you have any suggestions for my 2nd post regarding ARC writing over my installer settings...that would be AWESOME. I'd also love to hear some magic suggestions about my equipment. Hopefully all I need to do is switch a button here and there.


On a final notemy wife was putting my daughter to bed while I ran the measurements. Could her light screaming and talking effect the results? I dont see howsince the fronts seem to be ok.



Surround Speakers:

http://www.atlantictechnology.com/default.asp?NodeId=93 



Subwoofer Info:

http://www.amazon.com/Velodyne-HGS-1.../dp/B00027IOIG 



Main Speakers:

http://www.timefordvd.com/hardware/r...speakers.shtml 

 

AT e20_pis.pdf 291.703125k . file

 

HGS_1012.pdf 197.83203125k . file


----------



## Big Tex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15360903
> 
> 
> This is easy to fix. You have been bitten by a somewhat rare bug, but since you have your Installer Settings saved you can fix it.
> 
> 
> Power off the Anthem with the remote. Then power cycle the Anthem with its back panel power switch to get a completely fresh start. Then power on the Anthem with the remote.
> 
> 
> Now go into the Setup menu and Reload Saved Installer Settings. If you don't have video, you can do this via the Front Panel display. You'll now have video again, and all your Source Setup stuff will be restored.
> 
> 
> Once that completes, go to the PC and open up your saved file of ARC results in Advanced mode. The charts will display. Then click on Upload.
> 
> 
> I do not know WHY this sometimes happens to people (ARC Upload resetting all the Setup settings to factory defaults), but it only seems to happen once.
> 
> 
> After the ARC Upload completes, go into your Setup menu and see if everything is as you want it to be. At that point I suggest you Save User Settings to capture the changes that ARC has made into that memory. Keep your Installer settings just the way the are for now.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you have to reload your Video Source Adjust menu settings (from Live Video Settings Editor on the PC), you can do that after you complete the steps above. By that point, everything in the Setup menu and the Video Source Adjust menu should be correct (including the adjustments ARC makes). Do another Save User Settings to make sure your reloaded Video Source Adjust menu settings are also captured into that memory.
> 
> --Bob





Sweet!!!! I was sooo hoping that was the solution. This is what I thought I should do but I was nervous to try it. I'll try it an hour. Fow now it's MILLER time....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15361147
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the education and suggestions...!!! Wow...where to start. Let’s start with a little about my system and maybe that will lead to some additional suggestions (replace or reconfigure).
> 
> 
> AVM 50 processor, MCA 50 and MCA 20 Amps, B&W CDM fronts and center, JVC RS1, PS3, XBOX, Oppo, Time Warner cable, etc….
> 
> 
> My surrounds are all the same. Ironically they're THX certified Atlantic Technology System 20 SR surrounds. They're supposed to be good, so I thought. Maybe I'm not utilizing them properly; VERY likely. They're installed in the ceiling and firing in the downward position (is that bad?) The walls were not an option…at least for the surrounds. I could install the back speakers in the wall if necessary. The speaker switch is set to Dipole (Bipole is the other option). I have 4 of them all facing down from a 10 foot ceiling.
> 
> 
> My subwoofer is a Velodyne HGS-12 (8 years old). The amp is rated for 1250 watts. It's probably a digital amp but it gets loud. Time for a new one???? Settings are: phase set at zero, internal cross over turned off, subsonic set to 20 Hz, and the volume is set to 3 out of 10 per ARC. I had the volume at 5 and ARC freaked, it made me turn the volume down to 3 to be in the parameters (-12.5 to 12.5 db)
> 
> 
> Based on this data do you have any other thoughts or suggestions?
> 
> 
> I'm sooo tired. I never thought a stereo upgrade would wear me out like this. I've been at this for 8+ hours.
> 
> 
> I really really really appreciate you taking the time to put together that thoughtful and detailed response. I'm going to read it thoroughly here in an hour. For now I'm going to take a break. I so frustrated.
> 
> 
> If you have any suggestions for my 2nd post regarding ARC writing over my installer settings...that would be AWESOME. I'd also love to hear some magic suggestions about my equipment. Hopefully all I need to do is switch a button here and there.
> 
> 
> On a final note…my wife was putting my daughter to bed while I ran the measurements. Could her light screaming and talking effect the results? I don’t see how…since the fronts seem to be ok.



I wouldn't worry too much about the kid noises. ARC is pretty good at rejecting a Measurement sweep if random noises happen during the sweep tones. Kid noises certainly wouldn't explain what you are getting from your surrounds. (Do try to run your next set of ARC Measurements when the room will remain quiet however.)


Your sub says it is spec'ed down to 20Hz, but a 12 inch sub is pretty small for most listening rooms. The fact that the sub gets loud at higher frequencies does not conflict with this. A sub has to huff a lot of air to pressurize the room at 20Hz and a 12 inch sub will be hard pressed to do that.


However I note that the sub offers an optional subsonic cutoff at 35Hz, and since it appears to be function down to 35Hz I'd start by suggesting you double check you didn't accidentally flip that switch from 20Hz to 35Hz.


Odds are you just need a bigger sub for the cubic feet of air space in your room. Velodyne has a simple calculator on their web site that will suggest subs for different room sizes. It tends to be a bit conservative. For example they say I should need a DD-18, but my DD-15 works just peachy.


Again, 35Hz from the sub is not bad, and it is functioning properly now, so I wouldn't rush to fix the sub problem just yet. The surrounds problem is much more important. But if you were thinking about replacing the sub anyway, make sure you get one big enough for your room as well as designed to go deep.


---------------------------------------------


I don't know your surround speakers. I don't know if there are gotchas due to the ceiling mount. However one obvious thing to try is to switch all 4 of them to bipole and measure again.


Some speakers have separate input jacks for high frequency and low frequency -- which are often fed with just one pair of speaker wire and a jumper between the two pairs of jacks.


The marketing materials you posted for them don't go into installation stuff, but the treble response is bad enough from these that it wouldn't surprise me to learn they got installed without the high frequency inputs connected to anything.


ETA: To test this, play some CD music, and select STEREO ALL audio mode on the Anthem. This will cause the surrounds to get sent the same audio that is going to LF/RF. Now get up on a step ladder and put your ear close to each tweeter in each surround and see if it is actually playing anything at all.

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex

Bob,


I finally took the time to dig into your email and once again I can’t thank you enough for taking the time to explain everything to me. I appreciate it! That was one massive explanation and I feel much more comfortable with the data.


I'm going to take your suggestions regarding the surrounds. I'm going to switch them to bipole and run them in stereo mode. If they sound terrible I'll remove one of the speakers and inspect the connections and installation. You might be on to something. If they sound ok I'll rerun ARC in the bipole configuration and re-evaluate.


As for the center channel, it's the only speaker mounted in a cabinet and the cabinet door is covered in speaker cloth. I'm going to open the door (speaker cloth door) and allow the center to "breathe". I'm anxious to see if this will allow the low frequency sounds to flow. Right now the rear baffles are open, the issue is the speaker is sitting in a large hole in the cabinet and it's blocked with speaker cloth.


I'm sold on buying a new sub. Any recommendations? What does a good 15" or 18" run these days? I've always had good success with Velodyne. Any other brands I should check out? Maybe I can pick up a last minute Christmas deal.


I'm fired up to test everything tomorrow. I closed down the PC for a brew so I'm done for the evening. I'm anxious to run the tests tomorrow and I'll share the results.


The good news is I could be in store for some MAJOR improvements...MASSIVE. If I've been running the surrounds in crap mode for two years and LIKED IT. I'm going to freak when the work properly. I have to imagine there's something wrong with the installation or configuration. There's no way these surrounds can sound that bad. They have two tweeters per speaker.


Thanks for ALL the help! More graphs to come...


Big Tex


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well I like my Velodyne DD-15 a lot, but in all candor a major reason I bought it was its built in bass EQ system. This was back before ARC.


Now with ARC I leave that EQ system in the Velodyne disabled and let ARC do all the work. The results are significantly better then the best I'd been able to achieve heavily hand tweaking the Velodyne's EQ setup.


I use my DD with the servo cranked up to max ("Musical") and the sound, as adjusted by ARC, is outstanding.


The subfwoofer forum here leans heavily towards SVS fans.


Paradigm also makes a highly regarded servo sub.


Then you've got DRHANKZ who built a home theater combo subwoofer system so monstrous that the room bounces. Literally. He claims he can get down below 5Hz due to transducers under the floor. Think bouncing low-rider vehicles....










---------------------------------------


You could be on to something regarding your Center speaker placement.


---------------------------------------


I hope the surrounds prove easy to fix. If you don't spot any obvious installation error I suggest you call the company and see if they have any suggestions. Don't let them tell you the problem is that the ARC mic is broken or that ARC itself is screwing up. Your results from the front speakers clearly demonstrate that ARC (and the mic) are both working correctly.


There was a period in time when people thought it was *wise* to trim the high frequencies from surrounds. Surround tracks were less aggressive back then (not so much content going to the surround channels) and folks thought too much treble made the surrounds too intrusive -- too easy to localize. So some surrounds were designed with weak treble and some processors were designed to roll of the treble as well.


But I doubt your surrounds are designed like that (and the Anthem certainly isn't). So an installation flaw makes the most sense.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I should also mention that switching the surrounds from dipole to bipole will certainly invalidate the ARC results you just Uploaded.


That is, the corrections ARC is doing may make the broken speakers sound better as the original dipole than when you switch them to bipole -- simply because ARC is correcting what it heard from them when set to dipole. You may be able to tell by careful listening that the speakers are working better as bipole, but to see if things are really working right -- and to hear the true improvement -- you will need to do a new set of ARC Measurements and Upload new results (presuming the charts look better).

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/15350288
> 
> 
> Has anyone else been following the new Oppo BDP-83 on AVS Blu-Ray Player forum?
> 
> 
> Would this be a good match with the D2?
> 
> 
> How does this compare with the PS3 (my current player)?
> 
> 
> Things that I know:
> 
> 
> The BDP-83 You can do a Source Direct (resolution changes to the
> 
> native resolution of the content source) or Explicit 480i (forced 480i
> 
> output) for sd-dvd.
> 
> 
> The BDP-83 uses less power
> 
> 
> The BDP-83 uses ir for remote vs bluetooth in the PS3
> 
> 
> The DBP-83 has multi-channel analog outputs
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Rob




The other thing I bet it will do is send unprocessed Blu-ray audio bitstreams to the D2v2 - I know all the arguments about why the PS3 LPCM is just as good, but it would be nice to have the option so that you can test one versus the other.


----------



## jlwine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15357735
> 
> 
> Any time you do extra processing like that there is a chance of introducing artifacts. But it is trivially easy for the player to output 1080i/59.94 from 1080p/23.976 Blu-Ray content (and of course there's no work for the player to do for 1080i/59.94 Blu-Ray content), and the D2 does an excellent job of de-interlacing 1080i to 1080p.
> 
> 
> So I doubt you'll notice any difference.
> 
> 
> Be sure to use 1080p/59.94 output from the D2. Do not try to convert the 1080i/59.94 input from the player back to 1080p/23.976 output in the D2. That conversion does not work properly in the D2. [I'm hopeful this can be done right in the D2 v.2.]
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I have done some comparisons--include content that contains lots of motion and I really cannot tell a difference on my 52" Sony Bravia XBR.


Thanks for the reassurance--that in my case whatever very minimum quality derogation there might be is more than offset by the added benefit of being able to use both monitors simultaneously.


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15363414
> 
> 
> The other thing I bet it will do is send unprocessed Blu-ray audio bitstreams to the D2v2 - I know all the arguments about why the PS3 LPCM is just as good, but it would be nice to have the option so that you can test one versus the other.




I've got a question about this LPCM stuff that's been bothering me for a while. Let's say I play a 5.1 TrueHD soundtrack on my PS3, and send it to an Anthem (or any other PCM/HDMI compatible device). The "unzipped" pcm is 5.1, right? What if my bass management settings are 5.0 with small centre and rears... will the Anthem follow the bass management settings, and send the .1 to the Front L/R, and remove the bass from the centre and rears, redirecting it to the Front L/R?


People always say "there's no difference" but I've been burned too many times in the past by products that failed to properly bass manage certain input signals. I don't want to get burned again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/15364800
> 
> 
> I've got a question about this LPCM stuff that's been bothering me for a while. Let's say I play a 5.1 TrueHD soundtrack on my PS3, and send it to an Anthem (or any other PCM/HDMI compatible device). The "unzipped" pcm is 5.1, right? What if my bass management settings are 5.0 with small centre and rears... will the Anthem follow the bass management settings, and send the .1 to the Front L/R, and remove the bass from the centre and rears, redirecting it to the Front L/R?
> 
> 
> People always say "there's no difference" but I've been burned too many times in the past by products that failed to properly bass manage certain input signals. I don't want to get burned again.



Yes, the Anthem does that correctly. See section 3.3 of the Manual.


It is unusual in that regard. Many processors simply drop the LFE altogether if you have no sub. This is not as bad as it would seem since a typical track has full frequency range in the LF/RF channels. The missing LFE channel adds increased dynamics. I.e., there's no such thing (in a typical mix) of audio only going out to the LFE. It's in the LF/RF as well.


-----------------------------------------


Of course there's no reason to presume sending the bitstream to the processor and having the processor do the decoding would handle this any differently from what the processor does when it is sent LPCM.


Keep in mind that getting LPCM handled correctly is *REQUIRED*, whether or not you want to use bitstreams. If not, you won't be able to listen to raw LPCM tracks correctly.


And another point -- I don't say that LPCM and bitstream are identical. I say that LPCM is better. The quality is no different between the two and LPCM supports audio mixing in the player.


It will be fun to play with bitstreams once the D2 v.2 ships, but my recommendation remains the same. Get a decoding player (like the PS3) and use LPCM.

--Bob


----------



## rkphelps

Bob I did new Arc Measurements using your suggestions to me in message 17288 and the results are much better. I first set the noise level using my radio shack sound meter. This changed the noise level from +0.0 to +3.5 to achieve 75db. I then set my Subs to 73db and I also reclined the first row of 3 seats and set the mic closer to ear height at each of the 5 measurment locations. I stayed with the 5 positions across the front seat locations (your single row chart) because 95% of the time it's just my wife and I sitting in the front seats.


Attached are 3 Doc files showing Speaker noise level settings, Arc Targets, and Arc Charts. The first File is the first measurment I did @ 5000 max eq prior to your suggestions for reference. The 2nd and 3rd files are the new measurments using your changes @ 5000 max Eq and 12000 max eq. I am currently using the 12000 max eq settings loaded in my D2 and they sound very good. The next thing I plan on trying is to install a port blocker in each of my Subs to see if that will get them lower (my 2 subs have 3 ports each and by installing foam port blockers in one of the 3 ports it is suppost to lower their low end).


I welcome yours or anyone elses comments on how things are looking on my quest for perfect sound











Thanks Rob


My Current Home Theater System:


Pre/Pro Anthem Statement D2 w/Arc Microphone Room Correction

Parasound AMP HCA-2205AT 5x 220w

Onkyo THX828 receiver used only as amp for rears 2x 100w


Mains: (2) Paradigm Studio 100s V2

Center: (1) Paradigm CC-570

Sides: (2) Paradigm ADP-450 Dipole

Rears: (2) Paradigm ADP-150 Dipole

Subs: (2) SVS 16-46 CSPlus & Samson 2x 500w amp


Sony PS3 Blu/Ray Player

Panasonic RP91 DVD Player

Sony VPL-VW40 Projector

Stewart Fire hawk Screen 100 HD


(6) Home Theater Recliner Seats


Theater Room size: 15x22x7

 

Arc Charts Max EQ 5000.doc 445.5k . file

 

Arc Charts 2nd measure Max EQ 5000.doc 133k . file

 

Arc Charts 2nd measure Max EQ 12000.doc 132k . file


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Hey Bob,


I’m having trouble with my Xbox 360. I believe it’s a handshake issue. I think it’s due to using a harmony 880 remote. I hit the 360 activity and the 360 turns on and the D2 changes to the correct source. The screen starts out purple and the video is fine but I have no audio. I have to power off and on the D2 (sometimes more than once) to get the audio to work (over HDMI). I’ve also had success by just changing the source back to Sat and then back to TV (I’m using that source for the 360).


What would be the best way to fix this? Should I play with the settings in the 880 or is there a way to add delays using the D2 itself?


The same thing happened one time when I changed the source from Blu to Sat. The video worked fine but the audio was a high-pitched squeal (if that makes since) that wouldn’t stop until I changed the source back to Blu and then back to Sat.


So it’s for sure I’m having handshake issues. I just don’t know the best way to deal with them.


Merry Christmas to all!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15365252
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> I'm having trouble with my Xbox 360. I believe it's a handshake issue. I think it's due to using a harmony 880 remote. I hit the 360 activity and the 360 turns on and the D2 changes to the correct source. The screen starts out purple and the video is fine but I have no audio. I have to power off and on the D2 (sometimes more than once) to get the audio to work (over HDMI). I've also had success by just changing the source back to Sat and then back to TV (I'm using that source for the 360).
> 
> 
> What would be the best way to fix this? Should I play with the settings in the 880 or is there a way to add delays using the D2 itself?
> 
> 
> The same thing happened one time when I changed the source from Blu to Sat. The video worked fine but the audio was a high-pitched squeal (if that makes since) that wouldn't stop until I changed the source back to Blu and then back to Sat.
> 
> 
> So it's for sure I'm having handshake issues. I just don't know the best way to deal with them.
> 
> 
> Merry Christmas to all!



Yes those are HDMI handshake issues.


There's no way to add delay in the D2, but it is easy to increase the source switching and power on delays in the 880 configuration. I'm not sure increasing the delays will fix the problem (the D2 is pretty good about handling HDMI as it is powering up or switching sources) but it is easy enough to increase those delays in the 880 and see if it helps.


Typically there's not much you can do on your own to fix HDMI handshaking issues. They result from poor implementation in the source devices.


But one thing you can do is to try upgrading your HDMI cables to increase the odds the handshake will happen properly on the first try.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/15365075
> 
> 
> Bob I did new Arc Measurements using your suggestions to me in message 17288 and the results are much better. I first set the noise level using my radio shack sound meter. This changed the noise level from +0.0 to +3.5 to achieve 75db. I then set my Subs to 73db and I also reclined the first row of 3 seats and set the mic closer to ear height at each of the 5 measurment locations. I stayed with the 5 positions across the front seat locations (your single row chart) because 95% of the time it's just my wife and I sitting in the front seats.
> 
> 
> Attached are 3 Doc files showing Speaker noise level settings, Arc Targets, and Arc Charts. The first File is the first measurment I did @ 5000 max eq prior to your suggestions for reference. The 2nd and 3rd files are the new measurments using your changes @ 5000 max Eq and 12000 max eq. I am currently using the 12000 max eq settings loaded in my D2 and they sound very good. The next thing I plan on trying is to install a port blocker in each of my Subs to see if that will get them lower (my 2 subs have 3 ports each and by installing foam port blockers in one of the 3 ports it is suppost to lower their low end).
> 
> 
> I welcome yours or anyone elses comments on how things are looking on my quest for perfect sound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Rob



Your 12KHz results from the new set of Measurements are looking good. I suggest you do a set of re-Calculations raising the Target in steps up towards 20KHz to see how high you can go before the lower frequency results start showing too many wobbles. You may be able to get ARC to tackle most of the remaining drop off in your high frequencies. When you find a good compromise setting -- high enough to give you the high frequency response you want without also screwing up the low frequencies -- then Upload that and give it a listen.


The experiment with the subwoofer porting is certainly worth doing, but don't be surprised if it doesn't add much at the lowest frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## rabident

I was thinking of picking up a D2. My needs are simple:


- HDMI switching for a PS3 (1080p24) and TivoHD

- Good, flexible room correction (multiple profiles, adjustable target curves, selectable freq ranges to apply correction)

- good sound quality


Is there any reason to consider the D2 v2? Would a avm50 or other processor be more appropriate?


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15365312
> 
> 
> Yes those are HDMI handshake issues.
> 
> 
> There's no way to add delay in the D2, but it is easy to increase the source switching and power on delays in the 880 configuration. I'm not sure increasing the delays will fix the problem (the D2 is pretty good about handling HDMI as it is powering up or switching sources) but it is easy enough to increase those delays in the 880 and see if it helps.
> 
> 
> Typically there's not much you can do on your own to fix HDMI handshaking issues. They result from poor implementation in the source devices.
> 
> 
> But one thing you can do is to try upgrading your HDMI cables to increase the odds the handshake will happen properly on the first try.
> 
> --Bob



I have good HDMI (1.3) cables so I don't think replacing them will help.


Ok, so lets assume the handshake issues will get better with new versions (current being 1.33). Do I have to worry about powering the D2 on and off two or three times in a row until the handshake works?


Is there a better know way to deal with this? Will switching between sources do the same thing? Would turning the 360 on and off do the same thing? I'd rather power on and off the 300.00 Xbox than the 7000.00 processor.


Any suggestions???


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Usually it is not necessary to power cycle anything. Switching the D2 to a different input and back forces a new HDMI handshake.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rabident* /forum/post/15365713
> 
> 
> I was thinking of picking up a D2. My needs are simple:
> 
> 
> - HDMI switching for a PS3 (1080p24) and TivoHD
> 
> - Good, flexible room correction (multiple profiles, adjustable target curves, selectable freq ranges to apply correction)
> 
> - good sound quality
> 
> 
> Is there any reason to consider the D2 v2? Would a avm50 or other processor be more appropriate?



The D2 v.2 has better video processing and more HDMI inputs/outputs than the D2 or the AVM-50.


The D2 and the D2 v.2 have better audio than the AVM-50.


Anthem Room Correction (ARC) provides two setup configurations -- Movie and Music. These are independent of the audio surround modes that you might feed into either configuration. Choice of surround mode by source and format of audio is very flexible. But this is not the sort of "EQ" system that let's you easily distort the room response for say jazz, or to add ambience effects such as reverb. It is a room correction system, not an audio effects system.

--Bob


----------



## DEHAAS

How much audio-delay does the AVM-50/ARC series cause? I would like to connect a keyboard to my unit, but I am not sure whether the processor is suited for that kind of live performance?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DEHAAS* /forum/post/15366575
> 
> 
> How much audio-delay does the AVM-50/ARC series cause? I would like to connect a keyboard to my unit, but I am not sure whether the processor is suited for that kind of live performance?



This is probably a question best asked in an email to Anthem tech support, but I'd be surprised if there is any noticeable amount of delay in the audio signal path.


Generally it is the delay from VIDEO processing that people worry about in units like this.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

When I was using arc is says surrounds not rears. Should I turn off surrounds and turn on rears or does it make no difference. I have a just two speakers in the back.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/15368084
> 
> 
> When I was using arc is says surrounds not rears. Should I turn off surrounds and turn on rears or does it make no difference. I have a just two speakers in the back.



A 5.1 system should always be set up as Side Surrounds and no Rear Surrounds. Wire the 2 speakers you have back there to the side surround outputs of the Anthem, and tell ARC you have side surrounds and no rear speakers. This is true regardless of how far back you have set those 2 speakers.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

Thanks


----------



## ibg5

17498.

Thanks, Bob!

I will answer later.

With coming Christmas!


----------



## mclsound

does anyone no if the d2/arc firmwear problem has been solve????????????

The one that has the loud pops on tones,balance,and volume controls?????

The problem that scares the hell out of me when i touched the volume????

The problem ,that in my opinion should be solve!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

For a $8000 piece of equipment,this should be solved,i know i lived with it for almost a year and have not heard of one solution to this problem,only excuses,to move onto the V2.

Well i think this has gone on long enough,i grew so angry everytime i heard my ATC mids "POP",i believe the D2 owners deserve a solution before the V2 owners come on here with their list of complaints!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If this is to harsh for your eyes,DO NOT READ.

shaking my head

john


----------



## kzrsix

John...I had something similar w/my avm 20-hd, it would pop when changing tv channels. I reloaded the firmware, and have had no pops since.

j.k.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mclsound* /forum/post/15370984
> 
> 
> does anyone no if the d2/arc firmwear problem has been solve????????????
> 
> The one that has the loud pops on tones,balance,and volume controls?????
> 
> The problem that scares the hell out of me when i touched the volume????
> 
> The problem ,that in my opinion should be solve!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> For a $8000 piece of equipment,this should be solved,i know i lived with it for almost a year and have not heard of one solution to this problem,only excuses,to move onto the V2.
> 
> Well i think this has gone on long enough,i grew so angry everytime i heard my ATC mids "POP",i believe the D2 owners deserve a solution before the V2 owners come on here with their list of complaints!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> If this is to harsh for your eyes,DO NOT READ.
> 
> shaking my head
> 
> john



I don't know of any solution for this. It appears you are experiencing this problem to a far greater degree then other folks who have reported minor pops when adjusting the bass/treble controls (only). I've not seen other reports that I can recall of this problem with balance/volume controls. I'm certainly not experiencing it with the volume control (I don't use balance/bass/treble myself). And I've not seen reports of the pops being so loud as to be worrisome -- i.e., not loud pops but just noticeable pops.


I don't have any other suggestions for you except to call Anthem tech support and tell them this is not a problem you can live with because the pops are so loud and happen even when using the volume control, and that you need to arrange for the unit to go back to the factory to be fixed -- somehow -- since it is unusable as is.

--Bob


----------



## mclsound

Bob,i would adjust the volume tones at higher volumes,and the last tech talk was that the problem was not solved.

This is a loud volume adjustment issue only,why would anyone have any low volume issues.

I must be the only one who has this issue..STILL!!

JOHN


----------



## kmcadillac44

I've been playing with the D2 for a couple of days and thought I'd throw out some feedback/learning curve observations and ask for some feedback from the "Anthem Squad" here!


Room correction

Fascinating process - I'd always had difficulty hearing dialogue with my original set-up and when we ran thru the calibrations the center channel was clearly the position that had the most issues, almost dropping out completley between 800 - 2K Hz. The ARC corrected a large portion of that drop our and the precision of the center channel is hugely improved. Still looks like I've got some more I can play with there, but first shot is already a game changer. The bass response is also noticeably tighter and precise, making explosions, gun fire, etc. a new experience!


Blu-ray video

Picture is incredible. Really looks like a plasma now (projecting onto 106" screen). I upgraded my projector from 720P to 1080P at the same time, so I'm sure this is a combination of the D2 and proj., but it is a jaw dropping result.


Standard def video

I'm using an Oppo 981HD for SD. At first I was hugely disappointed in the picture quality, and couldn't believe this is what should be expected. After some digging, I realized it was upconverting the picture to 720P before it sent it to the D2. I reset it to send only 480P and the results were more impressive than I expected. The D2 really does an amazing job converting to HD quality images. I watch a lot of concert DVD's and it is like watching them for the first time now!


DirecTv

This again is a joy - I was watching thru component cables before to a 720P projector, so 1080P over HDMI with the D2 in the loop is something else. The New Year's football buffet will be a blast.


The help I need - after reading/searching I have not been able to find a recommendation on the optimum audio modes. Do most of you run DTS through the THX Ultra 2 Cinema? Or does the Dolby Digital optimize the output?


Thanks for any feedback, and thanks for the wealth of knowledge here. I'm sure I'll get years of enjoyment out of this and it's great having a resource like this to get the most out of it!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kmcadillac44* /forum/post/15377700
> 
> 
> Thanks for any feedback, and thanks for the wealth of knowledge here. I'm sure I'll get years of enjoyment out of this and it's great having a resource like this to get the most out of it!



Did you start *HERE* for various setup Info?


I'm sure you need some Anthem Mascots






































Merry Christmas from your Anthem Friends


----------



## kmcadillac44

Thanks Drhankz - and Merry Christmas to all of you!


I did read through the page one info - was a huge help. I just haven't found anything that really comnpares the THX versus Dolby Digital Output - I tried to do an a/b with the mode setting menu but didn't see much difference


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kmcadillac44* /forum/post/15377976
> 
> 
> Thanks Drhankz - and Merry Christmas to all of you!
> 
> 
> I did read through the page one info - was a huge help. I just haven't found anything that really comnpares the THX versus Dolby Digital Output - I tried to do an a/b with the mode setting menu but didn't see much difference



The thread below, especially post #16, has great info on the audio modes issue.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...y#post13643027


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kmcadillac44* /forum/post/15377976
> 
> 
> Thanks Drhankz - and Merry Christmas to all of you!
> 
> 
> I did read through the page one info - was a huge help. I just haven't found anything that really comnpares the THX versus Dolby Digital Output - I tried to do an a/b with the mode setting menu but didn't see much difference



You will find it easier to compare audio modes if you use the controls on the remote rather than changing the default mode selection via the Setup > Mode Presets menu. Changes you make in Mode Presets don't take effect until the next time you switch TO that input source from some other input source -- or when the format of the audio being input from the current source changes (e.g., stereo content vs. 5.1 content). And of course a change on any one line in Mode Presets only applies when you are listening to audio of that data format from that source.


To turn THX on or off with the remote, press the THX button and then use the Up or Down arrows to toggle the setting. The effect is immediate. [NOTE: Some surround audio modes are only available if THX is turned OFF. For example, Mono Academy mode mentioned below is only available when THX post processing is turned off.]


The Manual does a pretty good job explaining what THX and THX Ultra 2 offer. Keep in mind that THX Ultra 2 only applies if you have a 7.1 speaker system (it only differs from the normal THX stuff in what goes to the rear speakers).


I used to use THX for my movie viewing, but now, with ARC, I find the sound from the surrounds so sweet that I don't want it fiddled with at all. So I leave THX turned off.


The re-equalization portion of the THX post processing can be turned on/off independent of whether the rest of the THX post processing is turned on or off. (Press the THX button TWICE and then, again, use the Up/Down arrows to toggle.) Re-equalization removes the extra treble added into cinema releases to counter the room effects of the movie theater -- mostly all those bodies sitting in there and making noise. A significant number of movies broadcast on TV or sold on disc have ALREADY had their original movie theater track re-equalized for home theater use by the studio. So you have to decide on a movie by movie basis whether you think it sounds better with THX re-equalization turned on or not. This is just for movies. Music and regular TV shows never require re-equalization, although some folks will turn it on if they are bothered by high frequency noise in the content.


The amount of treble removed by THX re-equalization is fairly small, so it may be tough to notice the difference.


Old movies -- typically ones from the black and white era -- used a much more aggressive form of treble boost called Academy Equalization. This was due to speakers being placed behind the rather thick movie screens of the time. The Mono Academy audio mode in the Anthem is designed to remove that aggressive treble boost and will make olde tymie movies sound a lot more natural. But again, some broadcasts and discs of old movies have already had the Academy treble boost removed, so you need to decide on a movie by movie basis. The boost is much larger and so it is easy to hear the difference if you need Mono Academy or not. Playing with that may educate your ear to what to listen for when trying the more subtle THX re-equalization for modern movies.

--Bob


----------



## kmcadillac44

Thanks Roger and Bob - that was EXACTLY the info I was looking for!! I will enjoy stepping thru those iterations


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kmcadillac44* /forum/post/15377700
> 
> 
> Standard def video
> 
> I'm using an Oppo 981HD for SD. At first I was hugely disappointed in the picture quality, and couldn't believe this is what should be expected. After some digging, I realized it was upconverting the picture to 720P before it sent it to the D2. I reset it to send only 480P and the results were more impressive than I expected. The D2 really does an amazing job converting to HD quality images. I watch a lot of concert DVD's and it is like watching them for the first time now!



I originally had and Oppo981HD outputting 480p and I thought it was alright - I switched to the Oppo980H which outputs 480i via HDMI and I was shocked at how much better this looked with the D2. Well worth the $169 investment in the 980H!


----------



## ninja12

Merry Christmas to all. I hope everyone had a joyful, safe, and happy Christmas.


I was wondering if anyone knew the frequency of the test tone for setting the speaker levels? I looked in the manual, and I didn't see anything related to the frequency of the test tone unless I overlooked it. The reason I am asking is because I calibrate my speakers to 75db using my Radio Shack SPL Meter before I run ARC; but, when I run ARC, it looks like ARC is only detecting around 71db or 72db. I also found out that there is a correction table for the Radio Shack SPL Meter based on frequency. So, it appears that 75db on my Radio Shack SPL Meter is really not 75db.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15380076
> 
> 
> Merry Christmas to all. I hope everyone had a joyful, safe, and happy Christmas.
> 
> 
> I was wondering if anyone knew the frequency of the test tone for setting the speaker levels? I looked in the manual, and I didn't see anything related to the frequency of the test tone unless I overlooked it. The reason I am asking is because I calibrate my speakers to 75db using my Radio Shack SPL Meter before I run ARC; but, when I run ARC, it looks like ARC is only detecting around 71db or 72db. I also found out that there is a correction table for the Radio Shack SPL Meter based on frequency. So, it appears that 75db on my Radio Shack SPL Meter is really not 75db.



The SPL corrections deal with low end frequencies, and the meter should be correct when measuring pink noise.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15380114
> 
> 
> The SPL corrections deal with low end frequencies, and the meter should be correct when measuring pink noise.



Thanks for the response. So, could you please tell me why there is a discrepancy between what the meter is detecting and what ARC is detecting? My ARC appears to be around 71db or 72db; but, the meter is showing 75db.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15380130
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. So, could you please tell me why there is a discrepancy between what the meter is detecting and what ARC is detecting? My ARC appears to be around 71db or 72db; but, the meter is showing 75db.



Are you measuring with the Radio shack with ARC correction engaged or defeated?


I think the tone used is a band limited one, the RS sees the highest amplitude of any frequency within the range outputed by the band limited noise.


with ARC on, the frequency response is much smoother and possibly the reading is lower because the peaks and valleys within the band limited tone are closer to each other.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15379300
> 
> 
> I originally had and Oppo981HD outputting 480p and I thought it was alright - I switched to the Oppo980H which outputs 480i via HDMI and I was shocked at how much better this looked with the D2. Well worth the $169 investment in the 980H!



I fully agree, let the D2 do all the heavy lifting.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/15380465
> 
> 
> Are you measuring with the Radio shack with ARC correction engaged or defeated?
> 
> 
> I think the tone used is a band limited one, the RS sees the highest amplitude of any frequency within the range outputed by the band limited noise.
> 
> 
> with ARC on, the frequency response is much smoother and possibly the reading is lower because the peaks and valleys within the band limited tone are closer to each other.



The source that I use when I calibrate my speakers does have ARC on. I never thought to turn ARC off when I calibrate my speakers. So, you think that's why I'm getting the lower reading?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC on or off should not affect the results you get when measuring SPL using the internally generated test tones (Setup > Speaker Calibration).


The test tones cover a range of frequencies from low to high -- called "white noise". However the test tones are deliberately limited at the low and high ends. For example the low end is limited to avoid issues related to bass steering around the crossover frequencies.


ARC on the other hand uses a wider range of frequencies in deciding the proper basic volume level for the set of speakers. It can do this because it knows the impact of the crossovers for example.


Thus it is not unusually for the basic level resulting from what's set up by ARC to be different from what you set up using an SPL meter and the Setup >Speaker Calibration test tones. A few dB either side is normal. Generally this is due to peaks or dips that ARC sees at or below the crossover frequencies which the SPL meter will not see because the "white noise" doesn't go down that low.


What's more important is that whatever SPL level you measure (using Setup >Speaker Calibration) after ARC setup should be the same for all speakers.


----------------------------------------------


The corrections for the Radio Shack SPL meter are for the lowest frequencies -- below 60 Hz primarily. They don't apply when measuring the white noise test tones used by Setup > Speaker Calibration. They *DO* apply when making SPL measurements using the test tones in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Room Resonance Filter. Of course the Room Resonance Filter is not used when you have ARC set up, so if you are an ARC user you can ignore this. The correction tables (+/- dB adjustments for each frequency) can be found in the sticky threads in the subwoofer forum here. The short answer is that the SPL meter reads lower dB than it should at the lowest frequencies, so you need to add a few dB when measuring SPL using a low frequency test tone. The Radio Shack meters are quite consistently wrong at the low frequencies, meaning one correction table works fine for all such meters.


As always set the Radio Shack SPL meter to "C" weighting and "Slow" response. And point it straight up positioned at least arms length away from your body (and not near any other reflective surfaces) at seated ear height.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Does anybody have any experience with HDMI out audio pc cards?

I just got an Asus HDAV 1.3 Deluxe audio card and can't manage to get any sound from the HDMI output.

I'd be thankful to get some help with that.

BTW it is connected to a D2.


Thank you


----------



## abc999




The test tones cover a range of frequencies from low to high -- called "white noise". --------------------------------
--Bob[/QUOTE said:


> Is it white or pink? If its "white" then the octave frequencies have the same ampliture rather than 3 dB down for each succeeding octave as in pink noise.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15381867
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Does anybody have any experience with HDMI out audio pc cards?
> 
> I just got an Asus HDAV 1.3 Deluxe audio card and can't manage to get any sound from the HDMI output.
> 
> I'd be thankful to get some help with that.
> 
> BTW it is connected to a D2.
> 
> 
> Thank you



First you will need to make sure you do not have a built in sound card still enabled in your bios settings. This will cause conflicts regardless of which OS you are using. Secondly what version of windows if it is windows are u using? Thirdly have you gone into the control panel and made sure hdmi was being recognized in your sound device settings?


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/15383050
> 
> 
> First you will need to make sure you do not have a built in sound card still enabled in your bios settings. This will cause conflicts regardless of which OS you are using. Secondly what version of windows if it is windows are u using? Thirdly have you gone into the control panel and made sure hdmi was being recognized in your sound device settings?



No conflict in bios.

OS is Vista 32bit.

Control panel doesn't show HDMI explicitly. It says Digital out or Speakers (analog).

The ASUS utility shows the HDMI selection and can run the speakers' tests but no sound.

Is there anything i should know/do on the D2's end?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/15381952
> 
> 
> Is it white or pink? If its "white" then the octave frequencies have the same ampliture rather than 3 dB down for each succeeding octave as in pink noise.



My understanding is that the test tones generated in Setup > Speaker Calibration are "white noise". That's typically what's used for level setting.


"Pink noise" is typically used for tests focussing on the crossover regions such as the subwoofer phase setting tests on calibration DVDs.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Wouldn't ARC correct the lower frequency trim levels even if the measurements were off a few db?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15383138
> 
> 
> No conflict in bios.
> 
> OS is Vista 32bit.
> 
> Control panel doesn't show HDMI explicitly. It says Digital out or Speakers (analog).
> 
> The ASUS utility shows the HDMI selection and can run the speakers' tests but no sound.
> 
> Is there anything i should know/do on the D2's end?



In Setup > Source Setup for that input, you must send HDMI to the scaler in the Scaler Input line and you must select Dig HDMI in the Audio In line. I also suggest you turn Auto Dig=Off.


Are you getting video from that card?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15383223
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Wouldn't ARC correct the lower frequency trim levels even if the measurements were off a few db?
> 
> John



I'm not sure I understand your question. If you are asking about the SPL corrections needed for measuring low frequencies with the Radio Shack SPL meter, then this has nothing to do with ARC. The ARC mic comes with its own individual correction tables (one of the two licensing/calibration files that come with the install) so its Measurements don't have the problem that you have with manual measurements using the Radio Shack meter.


I.e., ARC's measurements are more accurate because it listens to a wider frequency range when choosing the best level trim setting and because its mic is already corrected for the lower frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I was referring to any low frequency discrepancy using the RS SPL meter and whether ARC would make it up this lower db level after it's measurement?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The ARC mic does not have a low frequency issue. The ARC results are more accurate than what you could measure using the Radio Shack SPL meter.


ARC produces accurate results based on its own mic and doesn't make any adjustments out of consideration for what the Radio Shack SPL meter will measure.


Use the Radio Shack SPL meter to set Noise Level and your subwoofer's internal volume control to the right ballpark levels prior to doing ARC Measurements. ARC will then adjust all the speaker volume trims according to its own Measurements. The levels ARC picks will likely be a bit different from the levels you would pick with the Radio Shack meter because ARC uses a wider frequency range in making its choice for each speaker. But this has nothing to do with the low frequency calibration error in the Radio Shack meter.


The bottom line is, ARC users need not concern themselves with the correction table for the Radio Shack meter.


-------------------------------------------


ETA: Even NON-ARC users need not worry about the correction table for the Radio Shack SPL meter *UNLESS* you are trying to use the special low frequency test tones in the Setup > Speaker Configuration > Room Resonance Filter menu. [Note that the Room Resonance Filter is not applied when using ARC, so ARC users can ignore this.] In particular, you do *NOT* have to make any correction to the Radio Shack meter's SPL reading when using the subwoofer level test tone from Setup > Speaker Calibration. Most of the energy in that tone is at frequencies which, although low, are in the high bass range -- above the range where the Radio Shack meter needs correction.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15383238
> 
> 
> In Setup > Source Setup for that input, you must send HDMI to the scaler in the Scaler Input line and you must select Dig HDMI in the Audio In line. I also suggest you turn Auto Dig=Off.
> 
> 
> Are you getting video from that card?
> 
> --Bob



It is set exactly as described and I am getting video through that card, although i did that only for testing. I mean I don't intend to let the video through this card.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15384928
> 
> 
> It is set exactly as described and I am getting video through that card, although i did that only for testing. I mean I don't intend to let the video through this card.



HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of HDMI video. So to get HDMI audio you have to have HDMI video or there is no HDMI signal. Now the video can just be a black screen of an appropriate resolution, but it has to be there.

--Bob


----------



## diamar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15380076
> 
> 
> Merry Christmas to all. I hope everyone had a joyful, safe, and happy Christmas.
> 
> 
> I was wondering if anyone knew the frequency of the test tone for setting the speaker levels? I looked in the manual, and I didn't see anything related to the frequency of the test tone unless I overlooked it. The reason I am asking is because I calibrate my speakers to 75db using my Radio Shack SPL Meter before I run ARC; but, when I run ARC, it looks like ARC is only detecting around 71db or 72db. I also found out that there is a correction table for the Radio Shack SPL Meter based on frequency. So, it appears that 75db on my Radio Shack SPL Meter is really not 75db.




I also found some weird inconsistencies with overall volume levels being reset with the latest (test) version of ARC -- though in the other direction. I just re-ran my measurements, after dutifully following Bob's guidelines for zero-ing out speaker levels and checking that the noise level was set at 75db. The noise level was +3db to get this reading with two different SPL meters, all speaker levels were at 0, and my sub's internal volume was set at -10db or so.


The first time I re-measured, ARC had trouble reading my sub levels and I turned the volume up (to what was marked 0db my Sunfire sub's volume control). The resulting ARC output was all at the 83 db level, and the sub's speaker level was set by ARC to -7 or so.


I re-ran measurements, zero-ing out everything again, but turned down the sub's volume to about -5db. ARC again complained of not reading the sub the first time through, but I made it try the sweep a second time, which worked. The resulting ARC curves were similar, but generally at a 75db level. My sub's speaker level was also pushed down again by ARC, this time around -6.


So my takeaway is that the sub's initial volume level DOES make a difference when ARC sets its volume levels -- it's not just the LF speaker. If you have your sub initially set too low or too high, it can have a dramatic impact on ARC's overall volume levels despite the LF volume setting.


My room is not particularly friendly to a subwoofer -- it's oddly shaped with lots of hard surface at funny angles, coffered ceilings, and some ambient street noise (downtown highrise problem). I had been running with an underpowered sub, and ARC really couldn't deal very well with it, giving me levels that made the sub boom loudly during movies. My new Sunfire sounds MUCH better, but it still seems ARC can be finicky with subwoofer volume levels.


Like everyone else here though, ARC has made an amazing difference in the quality of sound in my room!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm not sure why ARC complained that it couldn't measure your sub originally, but ignoring that for the moment I think what happened is that when you raised the sub volume to 0dB (raising it 10dB higher) ARC had to raise the targeted basic level for all the speakers so as to allow all the volume trims to stay within the +/- 12 dB range it has to work with.


When you lowered the sub volume and Measured again, ARC could now honor your original choice of levels (as set via Noise Level) while still being able to keep all the speakers within the range it has for volume trim.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15385811
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why ARC complained that it couldn't measure your sub originally,
> 
> --Bob



BOB - that is the BUG Nick and I worked on over the phone when I got ARC.


----------



## jayray

I have also experienced this problem with sub measurement. I just did a remeasurement and it worked.


----------



## diamar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15385811
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why ARC complained that it couldn't measure your sub originally, but ignoring that for the moment I think what happened is that when you raised the sub volume to 0dB (raising it 10dB higher) ARC had to raise the targeted basic level for all the speakers so as to allow all the volume trims to stay within the +/- 12 dB range it has to work with.
> 
> 
> When you lowered the sub volume and Measured again, ARC could now honor your original choice of levels (as set via Noise Level) while still being able to keep all the speakers within the range it has for volume trim.
> 
> --Bob




Agreed that's what ARC seems to have done. I thought maybe that was also what happened to the fellow whose post I responded to -- except that his overall volumes ended up lower.


I also don't know what's up with the lack of initial Sub detectiopn, but it's really been an issue with my setup from the first time I tried it. I originally attributed it all to the underpowered original sub and ambient noise, but suspect there might be another bug hiding there somewhere.


Even with the second set of measurements, 2 or 3 of the measurements required me to try the sub's sweep more than once before it registered. It's a minor annoyance at this point, unless is symptomatic of something bigger.


----------



## jayray

The sub measurement issue has only with ARC 1.2.13 and not any previous versions, in my experience.

John


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15384928
> 
> 
> It is set exactly as described and I am getting video through that card, although i did that only for testing. I mean I don't intend to let the video through this card.



I have an ATI 3870 on my HTPC and found out the hard way that if you want HDMI audio, you have to use the DVI to HDMI adapter at the computer. Do not use a DVI to HDMI cable, as these cables do not have the required wires for the audio signal. The DVI to HDMI dongle will convert the ATI hybrid DVI connector on the back of the card to a standard HDMI connector so that you can use a HDMI to HDMI cable to transfer both the video and audio signal.



Ed


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/15387178
> 
> 
> I have an ATI 3870 on my HTPC and found out the hard way that if you want HDMI audio, you have to use the DVI to HDMI adapter at the computer. Do not use a DVI to HDMI cable, as these cables do not have the required wires for the audio signal. The DVI to HDMI dongle will convert the ATI hybrid DVI connector on the back of the card to a standard HDMI connector so that you can use a HDMI to HDMI cable to transfer both the video and audio signal.
> 
> 
> 
> Ed



Ed, there are no special wires in an HDMI cable for audio. I don't doubt you had to use an adapter at the card (the card may be sensing what's plugged into it in non-standard ways thus causing it to turn off audio even though it is really connected to an HDMI receiver), but in general you can make a fully working HDMI to HDMI connection -- including both audio and video -- with an everyday HDMI to DVI adapter at each end and a normal DVI to DVI cable in between them.


The audio in an HDMI signal is embedded inside the video signal -- in the blanking intervals of the video. It is not a separate signal and requires no additional wires.


What really distinguishes an HDMI device from a DVI device is the handshake that gets exchanged over the cable between the chips driving each end. If both ends decide this is an HDMI to HDMI connection then audio is allowed (among other things). But again, this card may be short-cutting that decision based on a misguided reliance on the type of cable that's been plugged into it.

--Bob


----------



## diamar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15386586
> 
> 
> The sub measurement issue has only with ARC 1.2.13 and not any previous versions, in my experience.
> 
> John



That's entirely possible. While I've had sub measurement problems in my environment with every version since I started, I'm not sure it resulted in the overall volume level problem. I might try re-measuring with 1.2.5 tomorrow and see if I can force the behavior with the production version of the software.


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15387254
> 
> 
> Ed, there are no special wires in an HDMI cable for audio. I don't doubt you had to use an adapter at the card (the card may be sensing what's plugged into it in non-standard ways thus causing it to turn off audio even though it is really connected to an HDMI receiver), but in general you can make a fully working HDMI to HDMI connection -- including both audio and video -- with an everyday HDMI to DVI adapter at each end and a normal DVI to DVI cable in between them.
> 
> 
> The audio in an HDMI signal is embedded inside the video signal -- in the blanking intervals of the video. It is not a separate signal and requires no additional wires.
> 
> 
> What really distinguishes an HDMI device from a DVI device is the handshake that gets exchanged over the cable between the chips driving each end. If both ends decide this is an HDMI to HDMI connection then audio is allowed (among other things). But again, this card may be short-cutting that decision based on a misguided reliance on the type of cable that's been plugged into it.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I do know that I have a cable that has DVI on 1 end and HDMI on the other end. I also have a DVI-HDMI dongle adapter that came with the video card. The dongle has more pins on the DVI end than the cable.


When I used the cable, the computer configured the output as DVI and did not support audio. When I switched to the dongle and a standard HDMI-HDMI cable, the computer configured the connection as a HDMI connection and enabled the HDMI audio. This was clearly listed in the graphics control center on my Vista HTPC.


I can not say that all DVI-HDMI cables are like the one that I have, but I ensure you that my HTPC would not send audio to my AVM-50 thru the DVI-HDMI cable, but it works fine thru the dongle and HDMI-HDMI cable.


Aomething for HTPC users to watch out for if they can not get their HDMI audio to work...



Ed


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It sounds like the dongle has some extra pins that the card uses to detect when the dongle is plugged in. The card really shouldn't be making the DVI vs. HDMI choice that way, but hey, if the dongle works then that's the way to do it!


A good heads up in any event.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diamar* /forum/post/15387721
> 
> 
> That's entirely possible. While I've had sub measurement problems in my environment with every version since I started, I'm not sure it resulted in the overall volume level problem. I might try re-measuring with 1.2.5 tomorrow and see if I can force the behavior with the production version of the software.



I had the same problem with 1.2.13. Email Nick about this and include a copy of your file.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15386068
> 
> 
> I have also experienced this problem with sub measurement. I just did a remeasurement and it worked.



Nick needed help from an Engineer to figure out a temporary

workaround while they make changes to the ARC software.


----------



## Max Spivak

Folks, what's the latest stable firmware release? I think I'm still running 1.2. Is 1.33 that's here http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html is what I should use? (I don't have ARC yet).


I'm currently running with custom video resolutions. Will I run into problems since the Settings Editor isn't available yet?


Thx,

Max


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Use firmware V1.33. If you add ARC, use ARC V1.2.5. Both are available from the Anthem public download page (the link you posted). An updated Manual is also available from the Anthem site. (For ARC you will of course also need the pair of licensing and calibration files that come on your original ARC install CD.)


Your Custom Video Resolution is handled via Live Video Settings Editor (the application whose main use is control of the Video Source Adjust menu settings). The Live Video Settings Editor that comes in the V1.33 install folder works fine with V1.33, so you'll have no problem handling that.


The missing application, Setup Editor, is the one for saving and restoring the Setup menu settings. There is still not a version of Setup Editor that is fully compatible with the V1.33 firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Max Spivak

Thanks Bob!


----------



## bluemark81

I have a question regarding CD setup.


Currently, I have my cd player set up using both the optical out and the XLR analog out. On the Anthem, the XLR is set as my 2-ch input. My Audio In is set as AnlgDSP. When the 2-ch input is selected, I get the CD audio. However, the optical from the CDP is routed to the Optical1 on the Anthem. In the setup for my CD input, I have selected Dig OPT1 as my Audio In setting. I have Auto Dig set to Yes. I get no sound. If I set Auto Dig to No, I get the infamous hum/hiss that I've had since having ARC installed. I've tried selecting OPT2, which is audio from my SAT and it plays without any issue regardless of the Auto Dig selection. I've tried plugging my CD Optical into OPT2 and OPT3 and I get no audio. I've tried COAX from the CD player and I get audio.


Anyone have any clues what is happening here?


----------



## flavorguy

I have a unit "pre ordered" from my custom installer. Any word on when these new units will be released?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15393636
> 
> 
> I have a question regarding CD setup.
> 
> 
> Currently, I have my cd player set up using both the optical out and the XLR analog out. On the Anthem, the XLR is set as my 2-ch input. My Audio In is set as AnlgDSP. When the 2-ch input is selected, I get the CD audio. However, the optical from the CDP is routed to the Optical1 on the Anthem. In the setup for my CD input, I have selected Dig OPT1 as my Audio In setting. I have Auto Dig set to Yes. I get no sound. If I set Auto Dig to No, I get the infamous hum/hiss that I've had since having ARC installed. I've tried selecting OPT2, which is audio from my SAT and it plays without any issue regardless of the Auto Dig selection. I've tried plugging my CD Optical into OPT2 and OPT3 and I get no audio. I've tried COAX from the CD player and I get audio.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any clues what is happening here?



First of all you should set 'Auto Dig' to 'No'. Bob can explain when to turn it on, but I had troubles when I was doing my initial set-up on my D2 by setting up 'Auto Dig' to 'Yes' for all my digital connections. It's counter-intuitive, but turn the Auto Digital to 'No'.

Secondly, it sounds as if you might have a bad optical cable connected to your cdp. Switch the optical cable from your SAT to your cdp, and connect it to the D2 optical 2. You know that this cable and input work for the SAT, so it should work for the cdp. If it doesn't work, then there is something wrong with the cdp's optical out. If it does work, then connect the cable to the D2's other optical inputs and see if they work. If they do work with the optical cable you know works then the other cable is bad. If it doesn't work in the other D2 optical inputs, then they are the problem.

Now if you are trying the analog and digital connections so that you can A/B the cdp to see which connection you like best, then you can use the digital coax connection. It will be as good as, if not better, than the optical.

I'm guessing that the cable or the cdp's optical out is the problem. It shouldn't take very much time to trouble shoot the problem. Probably less time than it takes me to explain it.

Tom


----------



## GeorgeK

Does anyone know if V.2 will have Audio Rate Control? As some of you may know, normal HDMI connections have horrendous jitter on the audio (see the Jan. 2009 issue of Hi-Fi News, if you need convincing). In the 5.1 world, this could be overcome by sending audio via SPDIF. But for 7.1 channels and the new HD audio formats, this tactic is not usable. A solution exists but manufacturers are not obligated to implement it. In HDMI 1.3a, an optional feature is specified called "Audio Rate Control." This gets rid of the excessive jitter and is effectively what Pioneer was using over iLink (PQLS) and Denon over Cat5 (DenonLink), but now implemented via HDMI.


I see very little reason to get the V.2 version of the Anthem D2, unless it gives us ARC. If it does give us ARC, then it will be a big step forward, since compliant Blu-ray players will now start giving cleaner sound.


Note that ARC is a component of Consumer Electronics Control (CEC), which is an optional part of the HDMI 1.3a spec. So we have to know if Anthem are implementing CEC, which should then include ARC.


Happy listening!


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GeorgeK* /forum/post/15399283
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if V.2 will have Audio Rate Control? As some of you may know, normal HDMI connections have horrendous jitter on the audio (see the Jan. 2009 issue of Hi-Fi News, if you need convincing). In the 5.1 world, this could be overcome by sending audio via SPDIF. But for 7.1 channels and the new HD audio formats, this tactic is not usable. A solution exists but manufacturers are not obligated to implement it. In HDMI 1.3a, an optional feature is specified called "Audio Rate Control." This gets rid of the excessive jitter and is effectively what Pioneer was using over iLink (PQLS) and Denon over Cat5 (DenonLink), but now implemented via HDMI.
> 
> 
> I see very little reason to get the V.2 version of the Anthem D2, unless it gives us ARC. If it does give us ARC, then it will be a big step forward, since compliant Blu-ray players will now start giving cleaner sound.
> 
> 
> Note that ARC is a component of Consumer Electronics Control (CEC), which is an optional part of the HDMI 1.3a spec. So we have to know if Anthem are implementing CEC, which should then include ARC.
> 
> 
> Happy listening!



Ummm. There's a little conflict in acronyms since ARC, here abouts, usually means Anthem Room Correction which will certainly be in V2. I assume you mean Audio Rate Control but is ARC an accepted acronym for it? BTW, Pioneer has carried over PQLS into HDMI on their newer devices.


----------



## Milt99

George,

I'm having a bit of difficulty following parts of your post but I think I can answer at least part of it.


The D2 upsamples all digital audio input to 192/24 so all of the digital audio input is re-clocked by the D2.

Now whether one is satisfied with Anthem's clock implementation could be another question.


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

which blue ray players currently will decode internally to match up the best with my d2


thanks, bob


----------



## GeorgeK

Yeah, it's darn confusing that Anthem used ARC as the acronym for Anthem Room Correction. The HDMI standard's optional "Audio Rate Control" of course has nothing whatsoever to do with Anthem Room Correction, tho obviously the two beasts could readily coexist in one pre-pro.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/15401376
> 
> 
> which blue ray players currently will decode internally to match up the best with my d2
> 
> 
> thanks, bob



PS3.


Sony S550 and S5000-ES.


Panasonic BD55.


Denon 3800.


Upcoming Denon DVD-A1UDCI.


The upcoming Oppo should be a monster, and will play SACD and DVD-A... I think it's 2-3 months out.


Because the video processing in the D2 is so good, the Denon's and Oppo may be overkill for most.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GeorgeK* /forum/post/15399283
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if V.2 will have Audio Rate Control? As some of you may know, normal HDMI connections have horrendous jitter on the audio (see the Jan. 2009 issue of Hi-Fi News, if you need convincing). In the 5.1 world, this could be overcome by sending audio via SPDIF. But for 7.1 channels and the new HD audio formats, this tactic is not usable. A solution exists but manufacturers are not obligated to implement it. In HDMI 1.3a, an optional feature is specified called "Audio Rate Control." This gets rid of the excessive jitter and is effectively what Pioneer was using over iLink (PQLS) and Denon over Cat5 (DenonLink), but now implemented via HDMI.



It still isn't an issue when sending bit stream HD audio codecs, only PCM from a player.


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Does anybody know why my Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3 audio card's HDMI output only garbage when set to 192Khz? If I set it to 96Khz then I get a multichannel signal.

I also would like to know if I should I set my output to 5.1 (since we unfortunately still don't have the D2 v.2) or to 7.1 and let the D2 do some downmixing or whatever.


Thank you


----------



## jayray

Use Dolby Prologic IIx for 7.1 and it will sound excellent.

John


----------



## zr123

Hey Bob,


Any updates on the AVM 50 V2 or the D2 V2?


Thanks!


----------



## glennQNYC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15407108
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> Any updates on the AVM 50 V2 or the D2 V2?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I'm not Bob but... The official pricing (with special introductory price for the "v" pre-pros) was sent to the dealers and reps this afternoon. Check with your local Anthem dealer for details.


glennQ


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *glennQNYC* /forum/post/15408714
> 
> 
> I'm not Bob but... The official pricing (with special introductory price for the "v" pre-pros) was sent to the dealers and reps this afternoon. Check with your local Anthem dealer for details.
> 
> 
> glennQ



any *details*?


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15407108
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> Any updates on the AVM 50 V2 or the D2 V2?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



We received literature and pricing effective today 12/29/08.


Pre-orders have been taken already and anticipated delivery is late January but don't hold me to it pretty please. 


Anthem has set introductory pricing for both the AVM 50v and D2v to be the same as the prior AVM 50 w/arc and D2. This means $5499 and $7499 retail for the new 50v and D2v.


We don't know when the introductory pricing will end so get your orders in now. I believe they will increase $500 or so.


Hope this helps.


Cheers,

Jim E.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15410037
> 
> 
> any *details*?




Some more info:

*INTRODUCING THE ANTHEM**®* *STATEMENT D2v AND ANTHEM**®* *AVM 50v*

As the leader in cutting-edge digital audio and digital video processing, Anthem is proud to announce the latest improvements to the industry's 'reference' standard A/V Processors. Now including the latest advances in video and audio processing technology, the new Anthem Statement D2v and Anthem AVM 50v are here!
Full details will be coming soon on a Preliminary Data Sheet, but for now here are some highlights on both models:




Now with 8 HDMI (v1.3c) inputs and 2 HDMI (v1.3c) parallel outputs




The latest Gennum VXP broadcast quality video processing:


-
Deep Color and new audio format support over HDMI


-
Improved noise reduction: Adjustable 'mosquito' and 'block' noise reduction




PCM input is up to 7.1 channels at 24 bits / 192 kHz




Two dual-core audio DSP engines (an Anthem design!) offer a total of 800 MIPS to allow decoding of the
new Dolby and DTS HD audio standards




Dolby Volume (to be added very soon as a free software download from our website)




The critically acclaimed ARC is included on both models


----------



## ANSEK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15401865
> 
> 
> PS3.
> 
> 
> Sony S550 and S5000-ES.
> 
> 
> Panasonic S550.
> 
> 
> Denon 3800.
> 
> 
> Upcoming Denon DVD-A1UDCI.
> 
> 
> The upcoming Oppo should be a monster, and will play SACD and DVD-A... I think it's 2-3 months out.
> 
> 
> Because the video processing in the D2 is so good, the Denon's and Oppo may be overkill for most.



There is no such thing as a Panasonic S550 I think you mean 55K.  That is what I have with my D2 and all works fine.


----------



## Big Tex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15361420
> 
> 
> I wouldn't worry too much about the kid noises. ARC is pretty good at rejecting a Measurement sweep if random noises happen during the sweep tones. Kid noises certainly wouldn't explain what you are getting from your surrounds. (Do try to run your next set of ARC Measurements when the room will remain quiet however.)
> 
> 
> Your sub says it is spec'ed down to 20Hz, but a 12 inch sub is pretty small for most listening rooms. The fact that the sub gets loud at higher frequencies does not conflict with this. A sub has to huff a lot of air to pressurize the room at 20Hz and a 12 inch sub will be hard pressed to do that.
> 
> 
> However I note that the sub offers an optional subsonic cutoff at 35Hz, and since it appears to be function down to 35Hz I'd start by suggesting you double check you didn't accidentally flip that switch from 20Hz to 35Hz.
> 
> 
> Odds are you just need a bigger sub for the cubic feet of air space in your room. Velodyne has a simple calculator on their web site that will suggest subs for different room sizes. It tends to be a bit conservative. For example they say I should need a DD-18, but my DD-15 works just peachy.
> 
> 
> Again, 35Hz from the sub is not bad, and it is functioning properly now, so I wouldn't rush to fix the sub problem just yet. The surrounds problem is much more important. But if you were thinking about replacing the sub anyway, make sure you get one big enough for your room as well as designed to go deep.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I don't know your surround speakers. I don't know if there are gotchas due to the ceiling mount. However one obvious thing to try is to switch all 4 of them to bipole and measure again.
> 
> 
> Some speakers have separate input jacks for high frequency and low frequency -- which are often fed with just one pair of speaker wire and a jumper between the two pairs of jacks.
> 
> 
> The marketing materials you posted for them don't go into installation stuff, but the treble response is bad enough from these that it wouldn't surprise me to learn they got installed without the high frequency inputs connected to anything.
> 
> 
> ETA: To test this, play some CD music, and select STEREO ALL audio mode on the Anthem. This will cause the surrounds to get sent the same audio that is going to LF/RF. Now get up on a step ladder and put your ear close to each tweeter in each surround and see if it is actually playing anything at all.
> 
> --Bob





Bob,


I hope you remember me. We were going back and forth right before Christmas on my ARC results. Speaking of Christmas...I hope you had a good one!


Well I finally got some time to tinker with all those settings and suggestions you made. I really can't tell if anything changed.


Here's what I know. I uninstalled and inspected the surround speakers. The connections are solid and I confirmed in ALL Channel music mode that the tweeters are working. So unfortunately that theory is dead.


I then switched the speakers back and forth between dipole and bipole mode (there's a switch on the speaker). Based on the naked ear it did sound like Bipole sounded better. I also discovered that there is a Dipole/Direct speaker setting within the AVM Speaker configuration menu. I did have the setting correctly set to Dipole but I decided to play around and found that when it's set to "Direct", the Dipole speaker mode sounded better than dipole/dipole .


So I spent 3 hours listening to (speaker setting/AVM configuration setting) Dipole/Dipole, Dipole/Direct, Bipole/Dipole and Bipole/Direct. I "think" Bipole/Direct sounded the best. Hell who knows after watching the Dark Knight 10 times in a row listening for the smallest variances. Now I know what it would have been like to be Howard Hughes. I was about to go NUTS.


So after reading the speaker manual 100x and playing with all the settings I decided to run two additional ARC tests in two new configuration modes.


I already had ARC graphs in (Speaker Setting/AVM Speaker Config Setting) in Dipole/Dipole mode. The next two tests were Dipole/Direct and Bipole/Direct. My charts are below. Once again I have NO idea if anything improved. I feel like an idiot. I wish I could tell. Is my tweeter problem still there?


I'd really appreciate your analysis. This surround issue has me all tweaked out. The good news is I did take your advice and I'm ordering a new "deeper" sub. I agree...we can do better. Now I need to resolve the surround problem.


Lastly if you could educate me on a few new questions, I'd REALLY appreciate it. You've been SOOOO helpful!


Do the Direct versus Dipole configuration settings in the AVM make a big difference. I assume I'm supposed to match my speaker to the speaker configuration setting; i.e. dipole speakers get matched to the dipole setting.


Does the Bass and Treble setting make any difference here? Do those settings effect ARC or are they turned off? If on, what do you keep your treble and bass set to?


What's your favorite Anthem movie mode? Anthem Movie or Dolby P2x?


Thanks for ALL the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Big Tex


----------



## Big Tex

I'd really appreciate your analysis. This surround issue has me all tweaked out. The good news is I did take your advice and I'm ordering a new "deeper" sub. I agree...we can do better. Now I need to resolve the surround problem.



Big Tex[/quote]



Here's the last missing graph. Hopefully you can see all three options.


Bipole Speaker in Direct Anthem Mode - Graph 1

Bipole Speaker in Direct Anthem Mode - Graph 2


Dipole Speaker in Direct Anthem Mode 1 - Graph 1

Dipole Speaker in Direct Anthem Mode 2 - Graph 2


Dipole Speaker in Dipole Anthem Mode 1 - Graph 1

Dipole Speaker in Dipole Anthem Mode 2 - Graph 2


----------



## glennQNYC

About those parallel HDMI outputs on the v series processors... Although they do need to share a source, each output can have it's own resolution. Just an FYI.


glennQ


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just a quick note to let people know I'm not able to respond to questions right now. I should be posting again this weekend.


Happy New Year to all of you!

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15411103
> 
> 
> Just a quick note to let people know I'm not able to respond to questions right now. I should be posting again this weekend.
> 
> 
> Happy New Year to all of you!
> 
> --Bob



Right back at you Bob! Thanks for another year of patient and clear answers for so many and ultra-precise explanations of how to get the most out of our Anthem pre-pro!


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/15410225
> 
> 
> We received literature and pricing effective today 12/29/08.
> 
> 
> Pre-orders have been taken already and anticipated delivery is late January but don't hold me to it pretty please.
> 
> 
> Anthem has set introductory pricing for both the AVM 50v and D2v to be the same as the prior AVM 50 w/arc and D2. This means $5499 and $7499 retail for the new 50v and D2v.
> 
> 
> We don't know when the introductory pricing will end so get your orders in now. I believe they will increase $500 or so.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Jim E.



Many thanks Jim.


Any info on upgrade pricing? I have the chance of a vanilla D1 (no ARC) at a very low price and I'm wondering what that would cost to take to V2....


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Ha see, I knew the new processor would be called the D2V and not D2V2. (not that it matters at all) Introductory price of _7400.00 USD_ is ouch. I was hoping they'd discount it more. What I'm really interested in is the upgrade cost. I'm hoping they offer some kind of introductory upgrade.


The factory-authorized sale on the Statement D2 is still on. I believe it ends in a few days. It might be worth looking into considering it comes with a coupon for a half price D2V upgrade.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15412424
> 
> 
> Many thanks Jim.
> 
> 
> Any info on upgrade pricing? I have the chance of a vanilla D1 (no ARC) at a very low price and I'm wondering what that would cost to take to V2....



The upgrade of any Anthem to a "v" is still in the TBD category. I would pass on upgrading and given the special pricing get a new D2v. Get in touch with a dealer and I'm sure you can get a bargain. ;-)


THe rumor is that an upgrade from a D2 with ARC to a D2v will be at least $2600. You should expect a D2 without ARC or a D1 upgrade to a D2v to be at least $3000. This is just a projection right now.


Jim E.


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15412586
> 
> 
> Ha see, I knew the new processor would be called the D2V and not D2V2. (not that it matters at all) Introductory price of _7400.00 USD_ is ouch. I was hoping they’d discount it more. What I’m really interested in is the upgrade cost. I’m hoping they offer some kind of introductory upgrade.
> 
> 
> The factory-authorized sale on the Statement D2 is still on. I believe it ends in a few days. It might be worth looking into considering it comes with a coupon for a half price D2V upgrade.



Remember, the $7499 introductory price is retail. I'd be shocked, especially given the substantial downturn in business, if you couldn't bargain and get a great deal on the new unit now.


For clarity and according to the literature I received, the 1/2 price upgrade coupon only applies to AVM 50's and D2's that were sold within the last 60 days or the dealer's existing demo unit.


Finally, the factory sale on both the AVM 50 with ARC-1 and D2 is OVER. They were sold out as of 12/29/08. Sorry. :-( In fact, when I talked to Nick G. at Anthem yesterday he didn't even know that until I told him.


Cheers,

Jim E.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/15412861
> 
> 
> Remember, the $7499 introductory price is retail. I'd be shocked, especially given the substantial downturn in business, if you couldn't bargain and get a great deal on the new unit now.
> 
> 
> For clarity and according to the literature I received, the 1/2 price upgrade coupon only applies to AVM 50's and D2's that were sold within the last 60 days or the dealer's existing demo unit.
> 
> 
> Finally, the factory sale on both the AVM 50 with ARC-1 and D2 is OVER. They were sold out as of 12/29/08. Sorry. :-( In fact, when I talked to Nick G. at Anthem yesterday he didn't even know that until I told him.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Jim E.


*Holy sold out!* I just bought my D2 three weeks ago. I was shocked when I seen the half off coupon. I got the D2 for an incredible price and at the time I was thinking I'd just stick with the D2. Now the half price coupon all but guarantees I'll be doing the upgrade within the next year before the coupon expires.


Jim you seem to be in the loop so I'll ask you if you think there will be some sort of introductory pricing for the V upgrade. I really hope to take advantage of both introductory pricing and half price! I know, I just want it all!


----------



## Jim E.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15413091
> 
> *Holy sold out!* I just bought my D2 three weeks ago. I was shocked when I seen the half off coupon. I got the D2 for an incredible price and at the time I was thinking I'd just stick with the D2. Now the half price coupon all but guarantees I'll be doing the upgrade within the next year before the coupon expires.
> 
> 
> Jim you seem to be in the loop so I'll ask you if you think there will be some sort of introductory pricing for the V upgrade. I really hope to take advantage of both introductory pricing and half price! I know, I just want it all!



If you bought your D2 from an authorized dealer and it has ARC then you would qualify for the 1/2 price upgrade.


The only introductory pricing special is the one I just mentioned. If there are other specials then I'm not aware of any.


When does your coupon expire?


Jim E.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/15413283
> 
> 
> If you bought your D2 from an authorized dealer and it has ARC then you would qualify for the 1/2 price upgrade.
> 
> 
> The only introductory pricing special is the one I just mentioned. If there are other specials then I'm not aware of any.
> 
> 
> When does your coupon expire?
> 
> 
> Jim E.



Ya I purchased the D2 (new) from an authorised dealer. The exact wording on included coupon is:

*Anthem Statement!

Future Proof your D2!

For a limited time you can upgrade your D2 to the next generation D2V (coming soon!) for 1/2 price.


Ask your Dealer for details.


Offer Valid for 12 months from date of purchase.*


So I would assume I have until December 9th 2009 and send the unit off for the upgrade.


I thought I'd wait until late summer as I assume they'll get truckloads of D2's in for upgrade once the upgrade is available. My dealer thought the upgrade will be available late Feb early Mar but that was a guess as nothing was official as of the time I bought. I'd do the upgrade right away if there were introductory pricing of some kind. The D2 is so amazing I wouldn't be surprised if the did offer some kind of incentive to get people to upgrade now. Having said that I also wouldn't be surprised if you couldn't combine the (possible) introductory pricing with the half off coupon. Either way I'll have less than 6k Canadian into the processor after I do the upgrade so I'm thrilled no matter what. Actually I'll have less then 5k into it because my dealer gave me 100% credit on what I spent on a Denon 3808ci against the D2. I really got a fantastic deal.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15396242
> 
> 
> First of all you should set 'Auto Dig' to 'No'. Bob can explain when to turn it on, but I had troubles when I was doing my initial set-up on my D2 by setting up 'Auto Dig' to 'Yes' for all my digital connections. It's counter-intuitive, but turn the Auto Digital to 'No'.
> 
> Secondly, it sounds as if you might have a bad optical cable connected to your cdp. Switch the optical cable from your SAT to your cdp, and connect it to the D2 optical 2. You know that this cable and input work for the SAT, so it should work for the cdp. If it doesn't work, then there is something wrong with the cdp's optical out. If it does work, then connect the cable to the D2's other optical inputs and see if they work. If they do work with the optical cable you know works then the other cable is bad. If it doesn't work in the other D2 optical inputs, then they are the problem.
> 
> Now if you are trying the analog and digital connections so that you can A/B the cdp to see which connection you like best, then you can use the digital coax connection. It will be as good as, if not better, than the optical.
> 
> I'm guessing that the cable or the cdp's optical out is the problem. It shouldn't take very much time to trouble shoot the problem. Probably less time than it takes me to explain it.
> 
> Tom



Bob:


Can you follow-up on Bob's response and explain the Auto Digital setting? For my PS3 and DVD player, I have to set these to yes, otherwse, I get the hiss/humm issue constantly.


----------



## bluemark81

See my save settings screen. What's with the little clock symbols that I never had before? Anyone else notice this with theirs?

Attachment 128012


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15415320
> 
> 
> See my save settings screen. What's with the little clock symbols that I never had before? Anyone else notice this with theirs?
> 
> Attachment 128012



Now that is really weird







Never seen that.

John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15416688
> 
> 
> Now that is really weird
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never seen that.
> 
> John



Nick at Anthem hasn't either.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15414595
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Can you follow-up on Bob's response and explain the Auto Digital setting? For my PS3 and DVD player, I have to set these to yes, otherwse, I get the hiss/humm issue constantly.



Page 34 of the manual explains the 'auto digital' setting. It is for sources that send both an analog and digital signal, like some old cable boxes, and allows the D2 to sense which signal it is receiving and switch between analog and digital when necessary. Your ps3 and dvd (and newer cable or sat box) should be sending only a digital signal, and therefore not need 'auto dig' set to 'on'. I don't think it would hurt anything to have it 'on', it just shouldn't be necessary with most sources.

As for the 'hiss/humm issue' I would contact Anthem technical. Between that issue and your 'weird screen' , a reload of v1.33 might be called for. Ask Nick and Co.

Tom

BTW, what did you figure out about the cdp optical problem you were having?


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I’m trying to wrap my head around something.


Now that I have the greatest darn processor EVER (







) what do I need to surround it with? The D2 does all the Video and Audio processing. So is there a need for other higher end equipment. Would things look or sound any different if I replaced my PS3 with a $2000.00 Denon 3800BDCI blu-ray player? Or the new Oppo player when it’s released? Now that I have the D2 can I just use whatever and let the D2 do all the work or would there be an improvement if I upgrade the rest of my components?


If I surround the D2 with _lower level_ equipment am I missing out?


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15422108
> 
> 
> I'm trying to wrap my head around something.
> 
> 
> Now that I have the greatest darn processor EVER (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) what do I need to surround it with? The D2 does all the Video and Audio processing. So is there a need for other higher end equipment. Would things look or sound any different if I replaced my PS3 with a $2000.00 Denon 3800BDCI blu-ray player? Or the new Oppo player when it's released? Now that I have the D2 can I just use whatever and let the D2 do all the work or would there be an improvement if I upgrade the rest of my components?
> 
> 
> If I surround the D2 with _lower level_ equipment am I missing out?



I may get slammed here, but probably not.


I believe many people here have the PS3 with the D2 and in fact the 3800 BDCI (I have one but with a D1) is probably an overkill for the D2 since you would be paying for a lot of stuff that is already incorporated into the D2 (especially if you end up getting the D2v upgrade. The Oppo DVD players are very good at their price point and for DVDs do a very good job.


Sure you could spend $$$$ on esoteric source components, but I would tend to put that money at the back end (speakers, TV, projector) rather than updating the front end. Depending on your cabling (interconnects and speaker wire) or your protection system (make sure that youre protection system is not choking your ability to draw current for the amps), I would even put some money here first.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15422507
> 
> 
> I may get slammed here, but probably not.
> 
> 
> I believe many people here have the PS3 with the D2 and in fact the 3800 BDCI (I have one but with a D1) is probably an overkill for the D2 since you would be paying for a lot of stuff that is already incorporated into the D2 (especially if you end up getting the D2v upgrade. The Oppo DVD players are very good at their price point and for DVDs do a very good job.
> 
> 
> Sure you could spend $$$$ on esoteric source components, but I would tend to put that money at the back end (speakers, TV, projector) rather than updating the front end. Depending on your cabling (interconnects and speaker wire) or your protection system (make sure that youre protection system is not choking your ability to draw current for the amps), I would even put some money here first.



For the most part, I agree. For Blu-Ray the PS3 is just fine.


For SACD, DVD-A, and DVD play, the PS3 output, even with the D2 processing, can't compete against my current Denon DVD 5900. (My DVD 5900 has had a few issues that may force me to replace it - I may give the new Oppo a shot when it comes out).


For CD play I still like my Arcam CD192 analog output sound better than using the digital. Even with the ARC processing.


Even with the above said, I would still put my money on better amplifiers and speakers before front end improvements.


Mike


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Thanks for the replies.


For now I'll stand pat with my Bryston 9bst amp and Paradigm Reference Studio 100v3, CC590, ADP 590v4 and Paradigm Servo 15v2.


Down the road the plan is to do the D2v upgrade, add a second more powerful 2-channel Bryston amp so I can get into 7.1 and add the rear channel speakers. You guys have been helpful as I'll now not waste money upgrading my source components and I'll focus on the above.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> (make sure that you’re protection system is not choking your ability to draw current for the amps)



This is interesting. All I'm using as a protection system is a 150.00 Monster Power Bar / surge protector. I've actually got a couple of them. I'm also using two separate lines (???) off my main breaker box. One feeds the Amp, D2 and source components the other services the 58-inch plasma display.


I've read here at AVS that power conditioners are a waste. All you need is a good serge protector. Would you suggest something different?

*{edit}* Also, I can see already that I'll be upgrading my speakers one of these days. I have a one year old that will not stop walking. I'm quickly seeing that one year olds like to touch big speakers. I also don't see how the sub will make it out of this alive.  So I’ll replace the speakers once he gets older.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15423210
> 
> 
> Thanks for the replies.
> 
> 
> For now I'll stand pat with my Bryston 9bst amp and Paradigm Reference Studio 100v3, CC590, ADP 590v4 and Paradigm Servo 15v2.
> 
> 
> Down the road the plan is to do the D2v upgrade, add a second more powerful 2-channel Bryston amp so I can get into 7.1 and add the rear channel speakers. You guys have been helpful as I'll now not waste money upgrading my source components and I'll focus on the above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is interesting. All I'm using as a protection system is a 150.00 Monster Power Bar / surge protector. I've actually got a couple of them. I'm also using two separate lines (???) off my main breaker box. One feeds the Amp, D2 and source components the other services the 58-inch plasma display.
> 
> 
> I've read here at AVS that power conditioners are a waste. All you need is a good serge protector. Would you suggest something different?



I know I mentioned it, but I am probably opening a whole can of worms here. I personally do not like Monster products whether it be cables or protection. I am sure there are many opinions here, but I refer Richard Gray Power Company equipment http://www.richardgrayspowercompany.com/ (I use a number of RGCP 400 pros for all my equipment as well as a number of UPSs). Some people prefer to use power generators but they are quite a bit more expensive. I live in Florida where there are more than the average number of surges and short duration power drop outs so I chose somewhat more substantial protection, not just the power but also all inputs (satellite and internet) into the equipment.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15423428
> 
> 
> I know I mentioned it, but I am probably opening a whole can of worms here. I personally do not like Monster products whether it be cables or protection. I am sure there are many opinions here, but I refer Richard Gray Power Company equipment http://www.richardgrayspowercompany.com/ (I use a number of RGCP 400 pros for all my equipment as well as a number of UPSs). Some people prefer to use power generators but they are quite a bit more expensive. I live in Florida where there are more than the average number of surges and short duration power drop outs so I chose somewhat more substantial protection, not just the power but also all inputs (satellite and internet) into the equipment.



Oh My!










Google isn't very kind to Richard Grays Power Company. Most of what I found (granted I looked for ten minutes) was waste of money seen and heard no difference?


I'll do more reading for sure.


----------



## jkmw

"I've read here at AVS that power conditioners are a waste. All you need is a good serge protector. Would you suggest something different?"


Let me first say - I am not a Monster Power proponent, I don't own stock in the company, and I am not running any of their interconnects.


However, when the spill over from a lightning strike ran into our home through either the cable or phone lines, Monster replaced my HTPS 7000 SS with a brand new one, no questions asked. And just to stay on track, my D2 is plugged into the new HTPS 7000 SS MK2 which in turn is plugged into the Monster AVS 2000 SS voltage regulator. None of the equipment plugged into the original HTPS 7000 suffered from the experience, (but I replaced the old B&K Ref 50 with the D2 anyway - figured it was a good time to seriously upgrade).


Subsequently, (and to help answer your question), I installed two whole house surge suppressors, one for each electrical main panel, from Environmental Potentials , specifically, the EP-2050 on their residential page.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15421725
> 
> 
> Page 34 of the manual explains the 'auto digital' setting. It is for sources that send both an analog and digital signal, like some old cable boxes, and allows the D2 to sense which signal it is receiving and switch between analog and digital when necessary. Your ps3 and dvd (and newer cable or sat box) should be sending only a digital signal, and therefore not need 'auto dig' set to 'on'. I don't think it would hurt anything to have it 'on', it just shouldn't be necessary with most sources.
> 
> As for the 'hiss/humm issue' I would contact Anthem technical. Between that issue and your 'weird screen' , a reload of v1.33 might be called for. Ask Nick and Co.
> 
> Tom
> 
> BTW, what did you figure out about the cdp optical problem you were having?



Tom:


The issue with the optical WAS the cable.


I have asked Anthem about the weird hiss/humm issues I have but they do not have time to address until the V2 units are released. Did you see my youtube video showing this issue at the following link?

http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=FglzO4F303k 


This occurs everytime I switch between digital sources and for the first couple of secods of opening my setup screen. Only started since getting ARC installed.


Installing 1.33 took care of the odd little clocks on the save settings screen.


Thanks for your help!


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15424943
> 
> 
> Tom:
> 
> 
> Only started since getting ARC installed.



Might I suggest from your statement above.


Turn off EQ for each of your sources to see if this helps the noise problem.


Maybe remove ARC from your Anthem and reinstall 1.33 without it.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/15426700
> 
> 
> Might I suggest from your statement above.
> 
> 
> Turn off EQ for each of your sources to see if this helps the noise problem.
> 
> 
> Maybe remove ARC from your Anthem and reinstall 1.33 without it.



Tried your suggestions. Still the same. In fact, when I switch between sources within the source setup screen to turn the EQ off, I get the horrible hum/hiss also.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15422965
> 
> 
> For the most part, I agree. For Blu-Ray the PS3 is just fine.
> 
> 
> For SACD, DVD-A, and DVD play, the PS3 output, even with the D2 processing, can't compete against my current Denon DVD 5900. (My DVD 5900 has had a few issues that may force me to replace it - I may give the new Oppo a shot when it comes out).
> 
> 
> For CD play I still like my Arcam CD192 analog output sound better than using the digital. Even with the ARC processing.
> 
> 
> Even with the above said, I would still put my money on better amplifiers and speakers before front end improvements.
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike,

I have experienced the opposite. My Arcam with AnalogDSP on sounds much better with ARC. I A/B the analog cd-in with the digital-in (with ARC) and it was unanimous, Arc won.

John


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15430616
> 
> 
> Mike,
> 
> I have experienced the opposite. My Arcam with AnalogDSP on sounds much better with ARC. I A/B the analog cd-in with the digital-in (with ARC) and it was unanimous, Arc won.
> 
> John



John,


Actually, I probably stated it wrong. I like the sound using the analog in with the ARC processing turned on versus the digital in with ARC. Either way sounds better with the ARC engaged.


Mike


----------



## jayray

Mike,

Bob mentioned to me to use the digital in for my Arcam. This allows ARC to work on it. The analog is not affected by ARC unless you specify in the setup AnalogDSP. This allows the analog to be digitized and allow ARC to do it's work. Nick at Anthem told me the same thing. For my ipod, I use the analog in and then specify in setup, analogDSP, since there is no option for digital. This allows ARC to work on the ipod. The sound is much better but the Arcam is the clear winner









John


----------



## ensmarcum

OK,


Here is the situation, I got rid of the amp and speakers and only have the D2 left in my system. I want to use the D2 as the hub of the connections I have, PS3, HDDVD and Dish box. How can I get the D2 to control the volume of my tv? I have a sony bravia 52" xbr2 lcd. It is hooked up via hdmi and the tv has the sound coming out of it but the d2 wont change the volume, I have to use the tv remote and change it inside the tv. Also, I have some computer speakers I would like to hook up. I had them hooked up on the tv in the speaker output on the back, via red and white inputs and I would like the D2 to power them now but I dont know the best way to hook them up, any suggestions?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/15431857
> 
> 
> OK,
> 
> 
> Here is the situation, I got rid of the amp and speakers and only have the D2 left in my system. I want to use the D2 as the hub of the connections I have, PS3, HDDVD and Dish box. How can I get the D2 to control the volume of my tv? I have a sony bravia 52" xbr2 lcd. It is hooked up via hdmi and the tv has the sound coming out of it but the d2 wont change the volume, I have to use the tv remote and change it inside the tv. Also, I have some computer speakers I would like to hook up. I had them hooked up on the tv in the speaker output on the back, via red and white inputs and I would like the D2 to power them now but I dont know the best way to hook them up, any suggestions?



Sell you D2 - you have no NEED for it.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15431903
> 
> 
> OK,
> 
> 
> Here is the situation, I got rid of the amp and speakers and only have the D2 left in my system. I want to use the D2 as the hub of the connections I have, PS3, HDDVD and Dish box. How can I get the D2 to control the volume of my tv? I have a sony bravia 52" xbr2 lcd. It is hooked up via hdmi and the tv has the sound coming out of it but the d2 wont change the volume, I have to use the tv remote and change it inside the tv. Also, I have some computer speakers I would like to hook up. I had them hooked up on the tv in the speaker output on the back, via red and white inputs and I would like the D2 to power them now but I dont know the best way to hook them up, any suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> Sell you D2 - you have no NEED for it.



Yes sell the D2 and buy a Bose HDIB


You Have crippled the D2 by not having an amp and speakers.


No, there must be something else wrong here.


Why would you want a $7000 AV processor and $30 computer speakers..


----------



## ensmarcum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/15432101
> 
> 
> Yes sell the D2 and buy a Bose HDIB
> 
> 
> You Have crippled the D2 by not having an amp and speakers.
> 
> 
> No, there must be something else wrong here.
> 
> 
> Why would you want a $7000 AV processor and $30 computer speakers..



Thanks for the reply guys, alot of help. I sold it all to upgrade later, when i upgrade the D2 to the D2V. I figured out the problem anyway, and it was just to get rid of the computer speakers. I cant wait to get the upgrade.


----------



## rule#1

Darn, I was going to buy the D2...........................


----------



## zzzzdoc

Guys:


Could someone (Bob, et al.) please take a look at my ARC tracing and tell me how I can help things?











The fronts and center really look to roll off after about 5kHz. Will things improve if I set the ARC to work up to a higher frequency?


These are Snell XA1900s for the LCRs, and Snell AMC900 surrounds x 4 with a Velodyne DD-12 sub.


Not nearly the speakers that my Snell B's were in my old theater, but WAF was important, and these speakers had to be hidden in-wall behind speaker cloth.


Thanks in advance.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/15436163
> 
> 
> Guys:
> 
> 
> Could someone (Bob, et al.) please take a look at my ARC tracing and tell me how I can help things?
> 
> 
> 
> The fronts and center really look to roll off after about 5kHz. Will things improve if I set the ARC to work up to a higher frequency?
> 
> 
> These are Snell XA1900s for the LCRs, and Snell AMC900 surrounds x 4 with a Velodyne DD-12 sub.
> 
> 
> Not nearly the speakers that my Snell B's were in my old theater, but WAF was important, and these speakers had to be hidden in-wall behind speaker cloth.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



To answer your question yes increasing the frequency in the ARC settings will negate the roll off.


But looking at your plot for the center speaker, do you have it located at a very different height to the mains or is it a different (brand or model) speaker?


It's frequncy range seems very constricted compared with the others and appears to drop off completely above 10K.


Did you equalize them as best you could before applying ARC with a sound meter?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/15436163
> 
> 
> Guys:
> 
> 
> Could someone (Bob, et al.) please take a look at my ARC tracing and tell me how I can help things?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fronts and center really look to roll off after about 5kHz. Will things improve if I set the ARC to work up to a higher frequency?
> 
> 
> These are Snell XA1900s for the LCRs, and Snell AMC900 surrounds x 4 with a Velodyne DD-12 sub.
> 
> 
> Not nearly the speakers that my Snell B's were in my old theater, but WAF was important, and these speakers had to be hidden in-wall behind speaker cloth.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.




My 2cents:


Increase the noise level by 7dB via speaker calibration setup menu, this will increase the overall test tone level and have your SPL register at 75dB. Your graph shows a level of just 68dB.


I am puzzled by the dip at around 1.3khertz for all the surround and rear speakers. ARC cannot fully compensate for the drop but you will surely hear a noticeable difference compared to ARC being off.


Since your speakers are in cabinet or are not out into the room, boundery augmentation at the low freqency takes place. ARC lowers this boost to a more manageable level.


Yes , you can try increasing or forcing the maximum high frequency adjustment to 12 or 15khz and see what happens. This can be done in the advance mode of ARC.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15437191
> 
> 
> But looking at your plot for the center speaker, do you have it located at a very different height to the mains or is it a different (brand or model) speaker?
> 
> 
> It's frequency range seems very constricted compared with the others and appears to drop off completely above 10K.
> 
> 
> Did you equalize them as best you could before applying ARC with a sound meter?



No, I didn't try to equalize them with a sound meter beforehand. I thought that the ARC would just undo that.


All three speakers are at identical height. I'm somewhat surprised at the tracings, to say the least.


There are some strange behavior on the speakers (the 1.3K dip, the very different behavior of the two back speakers, which are identical, and placed symmetrically in a symmetrical room.)


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15437191
> 
> 
> But looking at your plot for the center speaker, do you have it located at a very different height to the mains or is it a different (brand or model) speaker? It's frequncy range seems very constricted compared with the others and appears to drop off completely above 10K.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/15438782
> 
> 
> All three speakers are at identical height. I'm somewhat surprised at the tracings, to say the least.



Actually, if you cut off the L/R front plots below the 60 dB line, they look very similar to the Center plot, except the C's peak at 140 Hz.



> Quote:
> There are some strange behavior on the speakers (the 1.3K dip, the very different behavior of the two back speakers, which are identical, and placed symmetrically in a symmetrical room.)



Are the surrounds a different model than the fronts? Can you tell us which units are used for fronts/surrounds?


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15401865
> 
> 
> PS3.
> 
> 
> Sony S550 and S5000-ES.
> 
> 
> Panasonic BD55.
> 
> 
> Denon 3800.
> 
> 
> Upcoming Denon DVD-A1UDCI.
> 
> 
> The upcoming Oppo should be a monster, and will play SACD and DVD-A... I think it's 2-3 months out.
> 
> 
> Because the video processing in the D2 is so good, the Denon's and Oppo may be overkill for most.



you can add the panny bd 35 to the list-decodes it all and is faster than most


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15440378
> 
> 
> Are the surrounds a different model than the fronts? Can you tell us which units are used for fronts/surrounds?



The surrounds are a different model. They are the Snell AMC900s, while the fronts are the Snell XA1900s.


----------



## Carl_Ballard

I managed to spill some liquid on my remote. Can someone tell me how to take the remote apart so I can thoroughly dry it out. I removed the screw under the battery, but it's still clamped tight.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

zzzzdoc,

A quick response as I don't have time to go into details just now.


Setup > Speaker Calibration > Noise Level is used to set the volume of the ARC test sweep tones and is reflected in the charts as the "basic volume" level from the speakers -- the flat part of the "Target" dashed-line curve to the right of the hump near the crossover frequencies. You'd like to get that up closer to 75dB to give ARC a good chance to hear what it has to hear. When you raise that you may also need to lower the volume knob on your subwoofer to keep it within the range of volume trim the Anthem can provide. There are several posts in this thread about how to use your SPL meter to set Noise Level and your sub's volume knob before running ARC Measurements. Search, or look through the links collected in the first post of this thread.


Reconsider the mounting height or vertical pointing of all 3 front speakers, and the toe-in of your LF/RF speakers. Some minor adjustments here may improve the Measured high frequencies from these. There are also posts here talking about directionality from speakers.


Do some re-Calculations where you raise the Max EQ Frequency value in the Targets window. Your Measured curves look good enough that ARC probably has the resources to correct things higher than the factory default 5KHz setting.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/15431857
> 
> 
> OK,
> 
> 
> Here is the situation, I got rid of the amp and speakers and only have the D2 left in my system. I want to use the D2 as the hub of the connections I have, PS3, HDDVD and Dish box. How can I get the D2 to control the volume of my tv? I have a sony bravia 52" xbr2 lcd. It is hooked up via hdmi and the tv has the sound coming out of it but the d2 wont change the volume, I have to use the tv remote and change it inside the tv. Also, I have some computer speakers I would like to hook up. I had them hooked up on the tv in the speaker output on the back, via red and white inputs and I would like the D2 to power them now but I dont know the best way to hook them up, any suggestions?



The audio on the HDMI output of the D2 is fixed volume stereo audio (2 channel LPCM as from a CD player).


It is quite likely that your best solution is to let the TV control the volume.


If you really want the D2 to control the volume you will need to tell the D2 you just have the LF/RF speakers (so it down mixes all audio output to just stereo) and then use the LF/RF speaker outputs from the D2 to line-level audio inputs on your TV. This would be exactly like connecting a DVI source device to your TV's HDMI input along with a stereo RCA audio jack connection for sound. You would use the HDMI connection for video only. (Check your TV manual for hooking up a DVI source device to the TV -- for example, there may be a specific HDMI input and stereo jack pair you have to use.) Then set the TV volume to mid-range for that audio input and the volume control on the D2 will do what you want to do.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15415320
> 
> 
> See my save settings screen. What's with the little clock symbols that I never had before? Anyone else notice this with theirs?
> 
> Attachment 128012



Something is broken in the character generator that produces that display or in the firmware that drives it. Your Anthem needs service or a firmware re-install.


------------------------------------


On your question re Auto Dig: The Auto Dig setting causes the Anthem to continuously sense whether or not there is a digital audio signal present on the specified digital audio input and to automatically switch to the analog, RCA stereo input jack pair for that named source (e.g., the DVD stereo RCA jack pair for any of the DVD1, DVD2, etc., source definitions) if there isn't. If digital audio is present then the digital audio is used instead.


Normally I recommend you leave Auto Dig OFF as that simplifies things. I.e., the Anthem doesn't have to continuously make this decision. And in particular, if you are using HDMI digital audio input, you should probably leave Auto Dig OFF as that simplifies the HDMI handshake. Auto Dig is useful for some cable TV set top boxes that will only put out digital audio if you are currently viewing a digital TV channel, and also for cases where you might want to share a given source definition between two separate input devices, one of which only puts out analog audio and the other only digital audio (i.e., power off the one you don't want to listen to).


If turning on Auto Dig is curing your hiss problem then you should use it, and you should also tell Anthem as this may help them sort out what is going on.


I suspect there is an incompatibility between the new ARC DSP board in your AVM-50 and the remaining, older AVM-50 audio circuits that is at the root of your hiss problem.


=================================


ETA: I see from your later post that a re-install of V1.33 cured your odd character displays in the Setup menu. It will be interesting to see if it cures any of the other problems you have been having.


It is not normal to have to re-install the hardware. I can understand having to do it once, but if the problem recurs and is again cured by a firmware re-install then something nasty is happening. Perhaps you have a bad download of the V1.33 installer from the Anthem site. Perhaps your new AVM-50 ARC board wasn't installed correctly and so you are getting unusual power glitches inside the Anthem. The point is, once correct firmware is in and working it should not degrade over time.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The recent announcement to the Anthem dealers that the D2v (or D2 v.2, or R2D2, or whatever) will include "Dolby Volume" in a future firmware upgrade is new info that goes beyond what Anthem promised in the original launch announcement from back at CEDIA.


I also note that this announcement to their dealers did *NOT* warn that either TrueHD or DTS-HD MA decoding would be delayed to some future firmware release. I.e., it looks like it WILL be ready to go at first shipment. Sometimes what's NOT said is the most important stuff.


---------------------------------------------


Oh and to the person who was worried about HDMI "audio rate control" -- an anti-jitter mechanism: I've seen nothing to indicate Anthem has bought into this optional HDMI feature. Personally I think the alarmist talk on HDMI jitter is *WAY* overblown. Processors that buffer and re-clock HDMI audio input (like the D2) can rely on the constantly re-synced video clocks (audio is embedded in the video data stream and the video is constantly re-syncing every single line).


However, whether you agree with me or not, for Blu-Ray playback in the D2 v.2 you can just bitstream TrueHD or DTS-HD MA and avoid the whole issue if you wish.


Personally, I intend to continue using HDMI LPCM for all HDMI sources and blithely ignoring the worry mongers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carl_Ballard* /forum/post/15443449
> 
> 
> I managed to spill some liquid on my remote. Can someone tell me how to take the remote apart so I can thoroughly dry it out. I removed the screw under the battery, but it's still clamped tight.



Sorry, can't help you with this question. You could call Anthem tech support on Monday, but odds are the stuff will have dried by then anyway.

--Bob


----------



## Carl_Ballard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15444991
> 
> 
> Sorry, can't help you with this question. You could call Anthem tech support on Monday, but odds are the stuff will have dried by then anyway.
> 
> --Bob



Bummer. It does seem to be working okay. And I managed to find where I had stashed the 2nd remote.


----------



## zzzzdoc

Everyone:


Appreciate all the suggestions. I raised the noise floor 7.5dB and set the ARC to correct all the way up to 20kHz. Not sure if that has disadvantages vs setting it to correct to, say, 15kHz, but what the heck. Also, I didn't change the subwoofer volume, as I did this before I saw your post, Bob.


Here's the resulting curves:


Noise floor ^7.5dB, ARC correcting to 20kHz:











BTW, something curious happens during the measurements. The front speakers are clearly louder than the surrounds and the rears when the test tones are played. Shouldn't they all sound the same amplitude?


Anyway, thoughts as to the new curves? Is there any way to further augment the high frequency response of the fronts/center? There's still quite the dropoff at the high end.


Thanks as always to the great board and its members.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It is normal for the speakers to produce different volumes during the test sweep tones as that is precisely what ARC needs so that it can decide how to adjust the volume for each of them. ARC zeroes out any volume adjustments you have made in Setup > Speaker Calibration prior to running the test sweeps and replaces them with new values according to what it hears. The only value it uses is the Noise Level as I stated above. [If the speakers are too out of balance for ARC to correct via the available speaker volume trim settings, then ARC will complain.]


Look at the speaker volume trim (Setup > Speaker Calibration) that ARC has now Uploaded for your Subwoofer. If it is a few dB either side of 0dB, then you are OK as is with the volume knob on your sub.


Your high frequency Measured curves for the LF/RF and C speakers may improve if you take some care in repositioning/repointing them. You are likely seeing the natural drop off due to directionality in the speakers. Keep in mind that the vertical dispersion of high frequencies in most speakers is less uniform than the horizontal dispersion, which means that speaker mounting height and vertical pointing can make a big difference in high frequency goodness. Check your speaker manual to see if they show any vertical and horizontal response diagrams for higher frequencies.


For example, for the LF/RF speakers: Try toeing them in a bit from being directly perpendicular to the screen. Don't overdo this. Try a mere 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular towards the direction to the center seating position. You will need to re-Measure after moving/repointing any speakers -- even inches matter.


You can do a set of re-Calculations with different Max EQ Frequency target values to see what happens to the Calculated (green) curve for each speaker. Look for a compromise setting that gives you much of what you can achieve in high frequencies by cranking it up to 20KHz but without introducing too much in the way of residual error wobbles either side of the dashed black Target curve in the lower frequencies. Your 20KHz results are not looking that bad, but you might get better by pulling back to something smaller like 18KHz. It is trivially easy to try different values -- you don't have to re-Measure, just re-Calculate using your current Measurements and see how the green curves change. When you get a result you like, Upload it and give it a listen.

--Bob


----------



## fresh123

i am running video out from an HTPC (over HDMI) thru the D2 to an HD1. >50% of the time (intermittantly), as i am watching a Blu-ray DVD (from hard drive), i will start seeing VERTICAL BANDING. Over time, it usually gets worse. Last night was especially bad - and when i increase volume, the OSD (from the D2 on the JVC) would garble the fonts - making them unreadable.


anyone seen this? when i watch regular TV from Vista Media Center (Tivo), things normally fine, but watching blu-ray movies seems to bring out the banding. And it doesn't happen all the time...


ideas??


thanks

brad


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15447383
> 
> 
> You can do a set of re-Calculations with different Max EQ Frequency target values to see what happens to the Calculated (green) curve for each speaker. Look for a compromise setting that gives you much of what you can achieve in high frequencies by cranking it up to 20KHz but without introducing too much in the way of residual error wobbles either side of the dashed black Target curve in the lower frequencies. Your 20KHz results are not looking that bad, but you might get better by pulling back to something smaller like 18KHz. It is trivially easy to try different values -- you don't have to re-Measure, just re-Calculate using your current Measurements and see how the green curves change. When you get a result you like, Upload it and give it a listen.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. So much to do, so little time.


I'll try shimming up the speakers (they are a little low, though I have already shimmed them a little.) Also toe them in a little more.


So much easier, better sounding with my old monolith Snell B's. Of course, the theater would still look like crap if I had kept them.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15410552
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I hope you remember me. We were going back and forth right before Christmas on my ARC results. Speaking of Christmas...I hope you had a good one!
> 
> 
> Well I finally got some time to tinker with all those settings and suggestions you made. I really can't tell if anything changed.
> 
> 
> Here's what I know. I uninstalled and inspected the surround speakers. The connections are solid and I confirmed in ALL Channel music mode that the tweeters are working. So unfortunately that theory is dead.
> 
> 
> I then switched the speakers back and forth between dipole and bipole mode (there's a switch on the speaker). Based on the naked ear it did sound like Bipole sounded better. I also discovered that there is a Dipole/Direct speaker setting within the AVM Speaker configuration menu. I did have the setting correctly set to Dipole but I decided to play around and found that when it's set to "Direct", the Dipole speaker mode sounded better than dipole/dipole .
> 
> 
> So I spent 3 hours listening to (speaker setting/AVM configuration setting) Dipole/Dipole, Dipole/Direct, Bipole/Dipole and Bipole/Direct. I "think" Bipole/Direct sounded the best. Hell who knows after watching the Dark Knight 10 times in a row listening for the smallest variances. Now I know what it would have been like to be Howard Hughes. I was about to go NUTS.
> 
> 
> So after reading the speaker manual 100x and playing with all the settings I decided to run two additional ARC tests in two new configuration modes.
> 
> 
> I already had ARC graphs in (Speaker Setting/AVM Speaker Config Setting) in Dipole/Dipole mode. The next two tests were Dipole/Direct and Bipole/Direct. My charts are below. Once again I have NO idea if anything improved. I feel like an idiot. I wish I could tell. Is my tweeter problem still there?
> 
> 
> I'd really appreciate your analysis. This surround issue has me all tweaked out. The good news is I did take your advice and I'm ordering a new "deeper" sub. I agree...we can do better. Now I need to resolve the surround problem.
> 
> 
> Lastly if you could educate me on a few new questions, I'd REALLY appreciate it. You've been SOOOO helpful!
> 
> 
> Do the Direct versus Dipole configuration settings in the AVM make a big difference. I assume I'm supposed to match my speaker to the speaker configuration setting; i.e. dipole speakers get matched to the dipole setting.
> 
> 
> Does the Bass and Treble setting make any difference here? Do those settings effect ARC or are they turned off? If on, what do you keep your treble and bass set to?
> 
> 
> What's your favorite Anthem movie mode? Anthem Movie or Dolby P2x?
> 
> 
> Thanks for ALL the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> Big Tex



As the Manual states, the Dipole setting merely simplifies distance (timing) adjustment for dipole spears -- i.e., matches the largest distance for your other speakers. Since dipole speakers work by bouncing sound off the surroundings, their direct line distance from the listening position is not relevant.


In any event, if you have the surround speakers themselves set to Bipole you should use the Direct setting in the Anthem so that the speaker distance (timing adjustments) are properly applied by the Anthem. If you set the speakers to Dipole, use the Dipole setting in the Anthem.


----------------------------------------------


You didn't mention this time what you were using for the Max EQ Frequency target when you did the ARC calculation. I think you should probably try raising that from the default 5KHz value to something closer to the max 20KHz value and see what sort of results curves you get.


You can try a few different values up there quite easily to see how the Calculated (green) curves change. Do this with both the Bipole/Direct and with the Dipole/Dipole Measurement files. Discard the Dipole/Direct Measurement file as you do not want to use that configuration.


It may just be that your surround speakers are weak in high frequencies, but if you tell ARC to correct up that high that should help.


-------------------------------------------------------


Bass and Treble are "on the fly" adjustment controls you can make for your personal preference according to whatever content you are watching at the moment. Their settings do not affect the ARC setup. In the 2+ years I've had my D2 I don't think I've ever used them.


I listen mostly to movies with multi-channel tracks, and I have a 5.1 speaker system, so there are no choices for me to make on surround audio modes -- i.e., there's no work for the D2 to do. 5.1 in just goes to 5.1 out.


Since you have a 7.1 speaker system, I suggest you use PLIIx to raise 5.1 channel input to 7.1 speaker output. It's entirely personal preference which of the PLIIx modes you use to do that -- read the Manual for some discussion of the differences between them.


When listening to stereo content, my personal preference is:


1) For Music stereo content: Stereo -- i.e., no surround speakers. Just the LF/RF and sub.


2) For regular TV programs: Anthem Cinema


3) For Movies with stereo sound tracks (on disc or broadcast TV): PLIIx, to raise the 2.0 channel input to 5.1 speaker output. Note that I don't have to chose between the different PLIIx modes as they only differ in what they would send to rear speakers and I don't have rear speakers.


I used to add THX post processing when watching movies, but now with ARC I don't do that any longer.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fresh123* /forum/post/15448778
> 
> 
> i am running video out from an HTPC (over HDMI) thru the D2 to an HD1. >50% of the time (intermittantly), as i am watching a Blu-ray DVD (from hard drive), i will start seeing VERTICAL BANDING. Over time, it usually gets worse. Last night was especially bad - and when i increase volume, the OSD (from the D2 on the JVC) would garble the fonts - making them unreadable.
> 
> 
> anyone seen this? when i watch regular TV from Vista Media Center (Tivo), things normally fine, but watching blu-ray movies seems to bring out the banding. And it doesn't happen all the time...
> 
> 
> ideas??
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> brad



This doesn't sound good. Since you are only seeing it from the one source, one thing to try if it happens again is to immediately switch to another source -- see if the problem happens there -- then switch back to the HTPC source and see if the problem is still there.


Another thing to try is to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" key) -- it is generated by a different circuit than the volume OSD so may work fine -- and go to the Info panel to see if the video input/output information has changed at all from what it shows when things are working properly from your HTPC.


Any time video interference problems are reported another thing I suggest is that you temporarily disconnect the feed from the wall to your cable or satellite TV receiver. An awful lot of garbage can come in on the shield of that cable and sometimes it will jump from box to box along the shields of the cables connecting them and screw up other electronics (i.e., it doesn't matter that it's not directly connected to either the HTPC or the Anthem). If you never see the HTPC problem when your cable/satellite feed is not connected to the outside world then you may have an improperly grounded cable/satellite feed.


Your problem may be video resolution dependent. Temporarily set your HTPC to a lower output resolution and see if that makes the problem go away. If so, your HTPC may not be putting out the correct video timings at the higher resolution.


Also try to describe the vertical banding more completely as the details may suggest the source of the problem.


Keep track of all the details you learn as you try this stuff. Your Anthem may need hardware service -- or it may need a re-install of the firmware -- and the details will help Anthem tech support sort that out with you.

--Bob


----------



## Jongoldman

Whenever we play an HD movie on our AppleTV through the Anthem D2, it shows up as "Dolby D" - 5.1. I've tried to change the Audio mode (i.e. to PLII Movie or EX), but I can't change it. I want to get my rear surrounds to work for 5.1 movies (I have a 7.1 system). Any ideas?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jongoldman* /forum/post/15450589
> 
> 
> Whenever we play an HD movie on our AppleTV through the Anthem D2, it shows up as "Dolby D" - 5.1. I've tried to change the Audio mode (i.e. to PLII Movie or EX), but I can't change it. I want to get my rear surrounds to work for 5.1 movies (I have a 7.1 system). Any ideas?



I had a similar problem once and I was told to check my speaker configuration in the D2 set-up. It had changed from 7.1 to 6.1, and I wasn't able to get PLIIx. Pehaps yours is set at 5.1.

Tom


----------



## ensmarcum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15444772
> 
> 
> The audio on the HDMI output of the D2 is fixed volume stereo audio (2 channel LPCM as from a CD player).
> 
> 
> It is quite likely that your best solution is to let the TV control the volume.
> 
> 
> If you really want the D2 to control the volume you will need to tell the D2 you just have the LF/RF speakers (so it down mixes all audio output to just stereo) and then use the LF/RF speaker outputs from the D2 to line-level audio inputs on your TV. This would be exactly like connecting a DVI source device to your TV's HDMI input along with a stereo RCA audio jack connection for sound. You would use the HDMI connection for video only. (Check your TV manual for hooking up a DVI source device to the TV -- for example, there may be a specific HDMI input and stereo jack pair you have to use.) Then set the TV volume to mid-range for that audio input and the volume control on the D2 will do what you want to do.
> 
> --Bob



Bob


Thanks man. Why didnt I think of that? At least you arent one of the naysayers when I just use the D2 as is without speakers and an amp. I wonder how much this upgrade to the V2 is going to call us?


----------



## Jongoldman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15451675
> 
> 
> I had a similar problem once and I was told to check my speaker configuration in the D2 set-up. It had changed from 7.1 to 6.1, and I wasn't able to get PLIIx. Pehaps yours is set at 5.1.
> 
> Tom



Other than the Apple TV input I have no problems with choosing the other modes.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jongoldman* /forum/post/15452084
> 
> 
> Other than the Apple TV input I have no problems with choosing the other modes.



I don't have the Apple TV, so I don't know specifically any peculiarities with its audio, BUT if its outputting a DD signal ,either 2.0 or 5.1, you should be able to set your D2 to DD-EX or PLIIx.

There have been some messages on this thread that Apple TV's hdmi out didn't work with the D2, and needed to be hooked up via component (and optical or coax, I assume) to work with the D2 properly.

It makes no sense to me. If your speaker set-up is configured for 7.1 in the D2 menu then you should be able to use DD-EX or PLIIx.

Maybe someone with an Apple TV can help. It might be something in its set-up. Sorry I couldn't be of any help.


----------



## Flugel

I've been lurking daily since I got my Pioneer 6010FD last February. I Finally decided that it was time to upgrade just about everything else.


I'm going with the Anthem Statement D2v, Anthem A5 amp and Martin Logan Spires, which are amazing together! I just auditioned them (well, not with D2v as that would be impossible) for several hours this afternoon, and I'm delighted. I currently have a Sony Blu-Ray player, which is a piece of garbage, and an Oppo 981 DVD player, both of which I will replace with the Oppo 83 that is due out soon. My rears are Polk Audio dipole surrounds, as the couch is against the back wall, and can't be anywhere else.


Should I make all of my connections that are possible to do so with HDMI cables to the D2v, or is there any reason to do otherwise?


I appreciate your opinion(s). Thanks in advance!


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Flugel* /forum/post/15452602
> 
> 
> I've been lurking daily since I got my Pioneer 6010FD last February. I Finally decided that it was time to upgrade just about everything else.
> 
> 
> I'm going with the Anthem Statement D2v, Anthem A5 amp and Martin Logan Spires, which are amazing together! I just auditioned them (well, not with D2v as that would be impossible) for several hours this afternoon, and I'm delighted. I currently have a Sony Blu-Ray player, which is a piece of garbage, and an Oppo 981 DVD player, both of which I will replace with the Oppo 83 that is due out soon. My rears are Polk Audio dipole surrounds, as the couch is against the back wall, and can't be anywhere else.
> 
> 
> Should I make all of my connections that are possible to do so with HDMI cables to the D2v, or is there any reason to do otherwise?
> 
> 
> I appreciate your opinion(s). Thanks in advance!



Yes, connect your listed gear with HDMI cables. The only exception I can think of is for some satellite and cable receivers, that when connected via HDMI have a 2 second pause when changing channels due to having to do the "handshake" every time.


----------



## dschamis

Here a dumb question: as everyone probably knows, often in BDs you need to specifically choose Dolby TrueHD as your language - the default is usually just 'English', which presumably is regular old Dolby Digital.


The questions is, when using the PS3 for BD, which transmits audio as LPCM to the D2, is there some way to see on the display of either the PS3 or the D2 that the TrueHD soundtrack is being properly sent? I always feel like choosing something in the menu is somewhat unsatisfying. Also, I sometimes just plain old forget and don't notice.


Dumb question, I know, but somewhat practical for the D2/PS3 combo.


Thanks,


David


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15454195
> 
> 
> Here a dumb question: as everyone probably knows, often in BDs you need to specifically choose Dolby TrueHD as your language - the default is usually just 'English', which presumably is regular old Dolby Digital.
> 
> 
> The questions is, when using the PS3 for BD, which transmits audio as LPCM to the D2, is there some way to see on the display of either the PS3
> 
> Dumb question, I know, but somewhat practical for the D2/PS3 combo.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David



Hitting DISPLAY on the PS3 shows the Audio selected - such as TrueHD, etc.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15454214
> 
> 
> Hitting DISPLAY on the PS3 shows the Audio selected - such as TrueHD, etc.



Thanks - makes sense - I wish there was a more automatic way to see, but that works fine.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jongoldman* /forum/post/15450589
> 
> 
> Whenever we play an HD movie on our AppleTV through the Anthem D2, it shows up as "Dolby D" - 5.1. I've tried to change the Audio mode (i.e. to PLII Movie or EX), but I can't change it. I want to get my rear surrounds to work for 5.1 movies (I have a 7.1 system). Any ideas?



There are only a limited number of things that can be screwed up here:


Go into Setup > Source Setup for the input you are using with the AppleTV and check whether you are using Movie or Music speaker configuration for Bass Management. If the wrong one is specified, correct it.


Now go into Setup > Speaker Configuration for Movie or Music (as chosen above) and verify that the rear speakers are included in the configuration. If not, correct that. If you are using ARC then this is set by the ARC Upload, which means you may have forgotten to tell ARC you had 1 or 2 rear speakers when you did the Measurement pass. Double check that in your ARC results file (open the saved file in ARC Advanced mode and see if charts are displayed for your rear speakers. If the ARC stuff doesn't include the rear speakers you will need to redo the ARC setup (Measure, Calculate, and Upload). If the ARC stuff DOES include the rear speakers then you can just redo the Upload without having to re-Measure.


If you are using ARC, then while you are in Setup > Source Setup, also check that Room EQ is ON for that source input so that ARC is actually turned on for that source.


Also remember after you do an ARC Upload to go into the Setup menu, check that everything looks as you expect in there, and then do a Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the changes ARC Uploaded into those memories. This will prevent your accidentally screwing up the ARC changes by reloading settings from those memories.


---------------------------------------------


Presuming all that is correct, play some AppleTV content and press Select a few times on the Anthem remote until you get to the display of which channels are present in the audio input. You should be seeing all 5.1 channels.


Continue pressing Select until you see the speakers included in the audio output. When you get the surround audio mode set correctly you should see al 7.1 speakers.


While still listening to the AppleTV content, press THX on the remote and use the Up or Down arrows to toggle THX post processing to OFF. Some surround modes are only accessible while THX is OFF.


Now press Mode on the remote and use the Up or Down arrows to cycle through the available surround mode options. You should be able to see all the non-THX choices for a 7.1 speaker system playing 5.1 channel content (see Manual section 4.8.8). If not, report what it is showing as available choices and we'll see if that suggests anything else to try. [If the movie from the AppleTV is presenting 2.0 audio to the Anthem, then of course you will see the different set of surround modes shown in Manual section 4.8.7.]

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Flugel* /forum/post/15452602
> 
> 
> I've been lurking daily since I got my Pioneer 6010FD last February. I Finally decided that it was time to upgrade just about everything else.
> 
> 
> I'm going with the Anthem Statement D2v, Anthem A5 amp and Martin Logan Spires, which are amazing together! I just auditioned them (well, not with D2v as that would be impossible) for several hours this afternoon, and I'm delighted. I currently have a Sony Blu-Ray player, which is a piece of garbage, and an Oppo 981 DVD player, both of which I will replace with the Oppo 83 that is due out soon. My rears are Polk Audio dipole surrounds, as the couch is against the back wall, and can't be anywhere else.
> 
> 
> Should I make all of my connections that are possible to do so with HDMI cables to the D2v, or is there any reason to do otherwise?
> 
> 
> I appreciate your opinion(s). Thanks in advance!



First of all, welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!


Your output to the display should be HDMI of course.


For Blu-Ray (and HD DVD if you have that) use HDMI input for both audio and video. For everything except Blu-Ray and HD DVD you can choose whatever is most convenient for you. For example, the audio from a cable TV box's optical digital output is identical in style and quality to what it will present on its HDMI output. Some devices may have reduced quality video on their Component video outputs compared to HDMI however, so my usual recommendation is to use HDMI for video to start and then try Component if you wish after you get used to what the HDMI video offers from that device. If you see no degradation when using Component, then you can feel free to use Component video (plus optical or coax digital audio) from that device as you choose. With the D2v, you've got lots of HDMI inputs of course, but if you get enough sources, then you may want to use Component from some of them.


HDMI inputs will exhibit a "handshake delay" every time the source is selected or the format of its output changes (e.g., video resolution change when switching between SD and HD cable channels -- if the cable box is set to output the same resolution as it is receiving from the channel). In addition, some HDMI devices include a SECOND handshake delay after video starts and before audio starts. Each handshake delay lasts about 2 seconds -- longer if it fails and has to retry. This is just the way HDMI works (i.e., it is not peculiar to the D2). Quite a few folks use Component+Optical or HDMI+Optical from their cable or satellite box to avoid one or both of these handshake delays.


When comparing HDMI vs. Component video from any device, be aware that you need to calibrate the video settings separately for each of them as there is no particular reason why the best video level settings for HDMI should be the same as for Component from any given source device. See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post in the links in the first post of this thread for guidance on setting up video properly.


Personally I use HDMI video from every source that offers it. (Component if HDMI is not offered, S-Video if neither Component or HDMI are offered -- avoid using Composite video from even cheap devices as the D2 will not process or scale Composite video inputs.) I use HDMI audio for those as well except for my Comcast HD/DVR which I have hooked up as Optiical digital audio to avoid its extra audio startup handshake delay.

--Bob


----------



## Jongoldman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15452404
> 
> 
> I don't have the Apple TV, so I don't know specifically any peculiarities with its audio, BUT if its outputting a DD signal ,either 2.0 or 5.1, you should be able to set your D2 to DD-EX or PLIIx.
> 
> There have been some messages on this thread that Apple TV's hdmi out didn't work with the D2, and needed to be hooked up via component (and optical or coax, I assume) to work with the D2 properly.
> 
> It makes no sense to me. If your speaker set-up is configured for 7.1 in the D2 menu then you should be able to use DD-EX or PLIIx.
> 
> Maybe someone with an Apple TV can help. It might be something in its set-up. Sorry I couldn't be of any help.



I figured it out today (we watched Dark Knight). The bass manager was on Music, when I changed it to "Movie" I was able to change the settings.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

In our house we have a hood over the cooking surface that has a pair of 50 watt flood lights. If you have something like that it will help the drying. Steady gentle warming which over hours will penetrate inside without overheating.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carl_Ballard* /forum/post/15443449
> 
> 
> I managed to spill some liquid on my remote. Can someone tell me how to take the remote apart so I can thoroughly dry it out. I removed the screw under the battery, but it's still clamped tight.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jongoldman* /forum/post/15456159
> 
> 
> I figured it out today (we watched Dark Knight). The bass manager was on Music, when I changed it to "Movie" I was able to change the settings.



Glad to hear it. It always seems so simple after you finally figure it out.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jongoldman* /forum/post/15456159
> 
> 
> I figured it out today (we watched Dark Knight). The bass manager was on Music, when I changed it to "Movie" I was able to change the settings.



"Suddenly! As if by logic!"











Glad its working for you now.

--Bob


----------



## "MIKEY"

Bob P.

A few months ago, you provided us specific details on how to set up our D2's ARC in our home theater system. Recently, your advice helped us configure our D2's video output using a newly purchased 1080p plasma display along with a PS3.


All sounds & looks great.


Thanks again for all your support helping us get the most out of our D2s. Your expertise is greatly appreciated!


We wish you & your family health & happines this new year.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We here at "Bob Pariseau" thank you for your kind words!


Oh, and it looks like these guys are headed over to your place:





































--Bob


----------



## jayray

Latest episode with ARC 1.2.13.

1. New measurement for music took only 4 position test tones, forgot the 5th position.


2. Settings were wiped out. Had to reload user settings










Use of test software should be used with caution









John


----------



## loveithot









I currently have a Panasonic DMP DB55 Blu-Ray Player; this player will decode Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master Audio either to analog or PCM. It will also output these as native digital bitstream. It has HDMI, component video, digital coax, digital optical, and analog 7.1 out.


I have a Motorola QIP 6416-2 (DVR/FiOS) which has HDMI, component video, digital coax, and digital optical out. I have a Mitsubishi 55819 display which has three component inputs: one 1080i input and two 480p inputs.


I also have an Anthem Signature A5.


I have the opportunity to buy a *new* D2 (version 1.xx) with ARC for $4500 US. I want to take maximum advantage of all of the D2's features right away.


Can you tell me what the ideal audio and video connection configuration for me would be? Would this advice change if I had a D2V2?


If I were to buy the D2V1 and have it upgraded to D2V2, what would distinguish the upgraded component from one that was originally a D2V2?


The D2 will be a very short distance from the A5 (my current interconnects are 0.6 meters long); in your opinion, would it be worth my while to buy a set of balanced cables to connect th D2 to the A5?


Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I take it your display does not have an HDMI (or DVI) input. That limits you, as copy protection prevents the Anthem from converting HDMI inputs to Component output. It can only convert in the other direction (Component in to HDMI out).


In your situation, most people would use Component video and Optical digital audio from each source device to the D2 until they could get an HDMI display. For Blu-Ray, that means you will be listening to the "associated" or "core" lossy DD or DTS audio track present on each disc for just such compatibility purposes.


If your Blu-Ray player has its HDMI and Component outputs live simultaneously (many Blu-Ray players won't do this), then you could send HDMI audio to the D2 and Component 1080i video directly to the display. In that case you would send HDMI LPCM audio from the player to the D2 -- i.e., have the player do the audio decoding -- which will get you the full goodness of the lossless encoded tracks. However, since your display only has one Component input capable of 1080i input, this too is problematic as there would not be a place to connect in the D2 output as well.


I would probably punt and use Component+Optical into the D2 and Component from the D2 to the one 1080i input of your display until you can replace the display.


None of this would change with the D2 v.2 (or D2v, or whatever they are calling it now). Again the limiting factor is your display (no HDMI/DVI and only one HD Component input).


-----------------------------


You really don't need balanced interconnects over a short distance like that. Their primary purpose is to help reject external electrical interference over long runs or in environments with a lot of equipment (which is why they are used in studios). If you use a mix of balanced and normal connections to your amp, keep in mind that there is a 6dB output difference between them. So it is normal that you will have to trim the volume differently for each. See the audio connections section of the D2 manual.


An upgraded D2 -> D2 v.2 will be identical to a new D2 v.2 except that the front panel isn't replaced so you won't see the new logos for things like TrueHD and DTS-HD MA. The components replaced during the upgrade (and only those components) get a new warranty of the same type as the replaced components had (3 years for the audio stuff, 2 years for the video stuff). In your case, since your D2 would be so new, this is not really a distinguishing factor.

--Bob


----------



## zr123

Hey Bob,


Just wondering, which one of these would have the better audio processor, the panasonic bd55k or the anthem avm50v and why? Thanks for your help!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/15412861
> 
> 
> Remember, the $7499 introductory price is retail. I'd be shocked, especially given the substantial downturn in business, if you couldn't bargain and get a great deal on the new unit now.
> 
> 
> For clarity and according to the literature I received, the 1/2 price upgrade coupon only applies to AVM 50's and D2's that were sold within the last 60 days or the dealer's existing demo unit.
> 
> 
> Finally, the factory sale on both the AVM 50 with ARC-1 and D2 is OVER. They were sold out as of 12/29/08. Sorry. :-( In fact, when I talked to Nick G. at Anthem yesterday he didn't even know that until I told him.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Jim E.



I would not be surprise if the price change since it was based on a quite different exchange rate. The CDN$ droppeed 20% since this announcement.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fresh123* /forum/post/15448778
> 
> 
> i am running video out from an HTPC (over HDMI) thru the D2 to an HD1. >50% of the time (intermittantly), as i am watching a Blu-ray DVD (from hard drive), i will start seeing VERTICAL BANDING. Over time, it usually gets worse. Last night was especially bad - and when i increase volume, the OSD (from the D2 on the JVC) would garble the fonts - making them unreadable.
> 
> 
> anyone seen this? when i watch regular TV from Vista Media Center (Tivo), things normally fine, but watching blu-ray movies seems to bring out the banding. And it doesn't happen all the time...
> 
> 
> ideas??
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> brad




BD playback on PC is far from being adequate lots of issues with all the software players. Your issue is probably not caused by the D2. I am using a PC with the D2 and used a JVC HD1 and HD2 without the artefact you are describing. I am using what I consider the less worst of the entire PC based software player which is Arcsoft TMT. Even with that player there are glitches. There are also glitches with the different video card and their driver.


The first to do is to confirm if this is D2 related. Have you try to watch a movie with the PC directly connected to the JVC to see if you get the same behavior?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/15350288
> 
> 
> Has anyone else been following the new Oppo BDP-83 on AVS Blu-Ray Player forum?
> 
> 
> Would this be a good match with the D2?
> 
> 
> How does this compare with the PS3 (my current player)?
> 
> 
> Things that I know:
> 
> 
> The BDP-83 You can do a Source Direct (resolution changes to the
> 
> native resolution of the content source) or Explicit 480i (forced 480i
> 
> output) for sd-dvd.
> 
> 
> The BDP-83 uses less power
> 
> 
> The BDP-83 uses ir for remote vs bluetooth in the PS3
> 
> 
> The DBP-83 has multi-channel analog outputs
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Rob



I am having a lot of fun with a Pioneer BDP-05FD.










I am considering a BDP-83 as a possibility if it can be dezoned for Blu-Ray playback. Right now my current solution for dezoning region B and C titles is to use a HTPC with AnyDVD killing the region code. This is far from being uptimal.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *loveithot* /forum/post/15459550
> 
> 
> 
> I have the opportunity to buy a *new* D2 (version 1.xx) with ARC for $4500 US. I want to take maximum advantage of all of the D2's features right away.
> 
> 
> Can you tell me what the ideal audio and video connection configuration for me would be? Would this advice change if I had a D2V2?
> 
> 
> If I were to buy the D2V1 and have it upgraded to D2V2, what would distinguish the upgraded component from one that was originally a D2V2?
> 
> 
> The D2 will be a very short distance from the A5 (my current interconnects are 0.6 meters long); in your opinion, would it be worth my while to buy a set of balanced cables to connect th D2 to the A5?
> 
> 
> Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.



I really can't say what would work best for you. I recently (like a month ago) got the D2 for 4700.00 CDN. At the time people in this thread were shocked because the best deals they could find were 5900.00 USD. So 4500.00 USD is a very good deal!


Also keep in mind that you should get a half off coupon to upgrade to the D2V and you'll have a year to do so. 4500.00 for the processor and 50% off the upgrade price to get into a D2V makes it an awesome deal.


I changed over to balanced interconnects when I got the D2. I don't know how much of the difference was the D2 and how much was the balanced interconnects but the difference in my theater is out of this world. The balanced interconnects are cheap so I'd recommend doing it. I needed six (5 channels plus sub) and it only cost me 150.00.


I'd definitely grab that D2 if you can get it for 4500.00!


----------



## AbMagFab

New year, new check... any news on the release of the D2v2?


----------



## Flugel

Thanks, Bob! I appreciate how clear you made your answer! I know exactly what to do now.


----------



## Doozer428





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15462003
> 
> 
> New year, new check... any news on the release of the D2v2?



My dealer told me that they are going into production this month and that pricing will be confirmed at CES this weekend.


However, someone posted earlier that they were holding pricing at the D2v1 level.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/15464930
> 
> 
> My dealer told me that they are going into production this month and that pricing will be confirmed at CES this weekend.
> 
> 
> However, someone posted earlier that they were holding pricing at the D2v1 level.



Pricing is fine, I just want to know when I can actually get one in my hands...


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/15464930
> 
> 
> My dealer told me that they are going into production this month and that pricing will be confirmed at CES this weekend.
> 
> 
> However, someone posted earlier that they were holding pricing at the D2v1 level.



I don't think the D2V2 is in full production right now meanwhile CES be will interesting since it is a good occasion to show the latest prototype and to firm the release date.


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15465240
> 
> 
> Pricing is fine, I just want to know when I can actually get one in my hands...



I have no idea how long it will take from production (this month supposedly) to delivery. But I was told that there should be no problem for early April when I need one. (famous last words)


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15461754
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> Originally Posted by fresh123
> 
> i am running video out from an HTPC (over HDMI) thru the D2 to an HD1. >50% of the time (intermittantly), as i am watching a Blu-ray DVD (from hard drive), i will start seeing VERTICAL BANDING. Over time, it usually gets worse. Last night was especially bad - and when i increase volume, the OSD (from the D2 on the JVC) would garble the fonts - making them unreadable.
> 
> 
> anyone seen this? when i watch regular TV from Vista Media Center (Tivo), things normally fine, but watching blu-ray movies seems to bring out the banding. And it doesn't happen all the time...
> 
> 
> ideas??
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> brad
> 
> 
> 
> BD playback on PC is far from being adequate lots of issues with all the software players. Your issue is probably not caused by the D2. I am using a PC with the D2 and used a JVC HD1 and HD2 without the artefact you are describing. I am using what I consider the less worst of the entire PC based software player which is Arcsoft TMT. Even with that player there are glitches. There are also glitches with the different video card and their driver.
> 
> 
> The first to do is to confirm if this is D2 related. Have you try to watch a movie with the PC directly connected to the JVC to see if you get the same behavior?



Here is a suggestion to eliminate all the problems.


Use a stand alone Blu ray player to play the Blu Ray disks to the D2. You then get great video and with the right player the HD audio codecs.

Use your PC to store any SD or HD videos and stream them with a Popcorn Hour or other streamer to the D2. You get 1080P and most 5.1 audio codecs perfectly.

If you load PlayOn on you PC you can stream Netflix and Hulu to the D2.

Just a suggestion I am offering. It is the route I took after getting fustrated with my HTPC. There was always some driver or board problem as well as Windows hangups that needed rebooting.


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15460464
> 
> 
> hey bob,
> 
> 
> just wondering, which one of these would have the better audio processor, the panasonic bd55k or the anthem avm50v and why? Thanks for your help!



?


----------



## jluloff

I have an AVM50 and Sony "Pearl" projector. I wanted to get a BD player (possibly the Sony S550) and was wondering since the AVM50 does not decode do I use HDMI or component? I am seeing talk of an upgrade to the AVM50 which will allow it to decode the new code...how will that change the way I will hook up a BD player? I am just a little confused of how to hook things up to make sure I get the best audio and video.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/15469053
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50 and Sony "Pearl" projector. I wanted to get a BD player (possibly the Sony S550) and was wondering since the AVM50 does not decode do I use HDMI or component? I am seeing talk of an upgrade to the AVM50 which will allow it to decode the new code...how will that change the way I will hook up a BD player? I am just a little confused of how to hook things up to make sure I get the best audio and video.



I know the 550 can decode internally the new codecs therefore a setting for LPCM or PCM should be engaged on the 550 side and let the AVM do the rest using HDMI


----------



## davidhoenig

I've also cross-posted this in the remote forum, but I figured I have better success in this thread regarding the Harmony One and D2...


Anyone come up with a solution for directly selecting one of the inputs that have multiple selections (i.e. DVD1-DVD4, TV1-TV4, SAT1-SAT2)?


I know from the D2 manual that you can directly tune to those inputs with a sequence of buttons (THX, 8,5 for DVD1, for example) but a seuence cannot be set up as an input for the Harmony.


I'm struggling to get this point across for what I want with online Harmony support. Anyone else run into this and find a good solution?


I'm also tried learning the button sequence with several button presses, but to no success either.


Also - anyone able to get the video processor menu button to work? It's a hold of the 7 key, but the default setup for the One seems to not allow for a button 'hold' vs. button press. Any thoughts here?


Thanks everyone for the help!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

David,

I called Harmony support and had them whip me up a set of those 3 key source selectors as additional "input" definitions. Since that brought the list of input selectors to more than 8 I can't go into the input definition page of their configuration stuff myself anymore without losing some, but no matter as its set up correctly now and there's nothing I need to do in that page.


In the activities and the device page, I just reference any of the definitions they've set for me just like referencing the normal inputs (such as the original "DVD" which cycles through the overlayed stuff). I.e., there is now a named "DVD1" (etc.) which results in the correct 3 key code being sent.


This was done by level two support and should be available to them for your use in their database of Harmony 880 stuff for the D2 (which should apply just fine to the One). When you call Harmony support, just let the level one person know that you need some special input selection definitions added (which the level one guys can't do) and ask them to put you in the queue to level two support. Tell level two you need some additional input selection definitions added that each transmit a set of 3 key commands. And let them know that they've already done this for an 880 user for his D2 setup so they can look in the database for "DVD1", "DVD2" etc., and perhaps save themselves some time.


One problem I had was that the first try they did resulted in an "input selection delay" after each transmitted key press, which meant the D2 timed out before it saw all 3 key presses. It is easy to see this happening if you watch the on screen display while trying it. I also had a problem on an Activity change where a power off command for a source device was being transmitted after the first of the input selector keys (as if the input selection was already completed) -- which meant there was a power change delay that happened before the 2nd and 3rd keys -- and again the D2 timed out before seeing them. Again this was easy to see happening on screen (while also keeping an eye on the power down and power up of the sources).


But Harmony level two support is great and they just kept at it until they got it right.


I suggest you have them enter definitions now for ALL of those direct access input selectors for you, even if you only intend to use a few of them at the moment.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15460464
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> Just wondering, which one of these would have the better audio processor, the panasonic bd55k or the anthem avm50v and why? Thanks for your help!



I don't understand your question.


If you are asking about converting audio to analog I don't know the answer because I don't know enough about the analog audio output stage of that player. Odds are you should send HDMI LPCM digital audio to the Anthem and let the Anthem do the conversion to analog audio output for your speakers.


If you are asking about surround sound processing, I doubt the player does any.


If you are asking about decoding the high bandwidth Blu-Ray audio formats (TrueHD and DTS-HD MA) there will likely be no difference between having the player do it and having the Anthem do it. However my recommendation is that you have the player do it and send HDMI LPCM to the Anthem as that makes it easier to take advantage of Blu-Ray's audio mixing features (which can only be applied in the player and can only be applied after the audio track is decoded).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jluloff* /forum/post/15469053
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50 and Sony "Pearl" projector. I wanted to get a BD player (possibly the Sony S550) and was wondering since the AVM50 does not decode do I use HDMI or component? I am seeing talk of an upgrade to the AVM50 which will allow it to decode the new code...how will that change the way I will hook up a BD player? I am just a little confused of how to hook things up to make sure I get the best audio and video.



My recommendation is that you get a player that can decode the audio tracks to HDMI LPCM and send that to the Anthem whether you are using the original AVM-50 or the new AVM-50v. Video to the Anthem would also be HDMI, and video from the Anthem to your Pearl would be HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/15466395
> 
> 
> I have no idea how long it will take from production (this month supposedly) to delivery. But I was told that there should be no problem for early April when I need one. (famous last words)



Based on their prior product releases, if they are actually in production now (and I have no separate confirmation of that) then they are likely within a month of first shipment barring problems discovered during production.

--Bob


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15470937
> 
> 
> If you are asking about decoding the high bandwidth Blu-Ray audio formats (TrueHD and DTS-HD MA) there will likely be no difference between having the player do it and having the Anthem do it. However my recommendation is that you have the player do it and send HDMI LPCM to the Anthem as that makes it easier to take advantage of Blu-Ray's audio mixing features (which can only be applied in the player and can only be applied after the audio track is decoded).
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob!


That answers my question perfectly


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fresh123* /forum/post/15448778
> 
> 
> i am running video out from an HTPC (over HDMI) thru the D2 to an HD1. >50% of the time (intermittantly), as i am watching a Blu-ray DVD (from hard drive), i will start seeing VERTICAL BANDING. Over time, it usually gets worse. Last night was especially bad - and when i increase volume, the OSD (from the D2 on the JVC) would garble the fonts - making them unreadable.
> 
> 
> anyone seen this? when i watch regular TV from Vista Media Center (Tivo), things normally fine, but watching blu-ray movies seems to bring out the banding. And it doesn't happen all the time...
> 
> 
> ideas??
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> brad





this could be due to a number of reasons: What type of board are using? codecs playing blu ray? Most likely it is due to a driver/codec issue. Please be sure you do not have more then one codec installed on you htpc. I use vistacodec pack with mine and powerdvd 8 and have no issues at alll with d2 playing blu ray off hard drive.!


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15422507
> 
> 
> I may get slammed here, but probably not.
> 
> 
> Sure you could spend $$$$ on esoteric source components, but I would tend to put that money at the back end (speakers, TV, projector) rather than updating the front end. Depending on your cabling (interconnects and speaker wire) *or your protection system (make sure that youre protection system is not choking your ability to draw current for the amps), I would even put some money here first*.



Hey Bob, could you chime in on this? mikefl52 has me seriously considering getting a power conditioner. I'd love to get your take on this. I know it's one of these hot spots around AVS. Some say it's useless others swear by it. What's your opinion?


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/15470777
> 
> 
> I know from the D2 manual that you can directly tune to those inputs with a sequence of buttons (THX, 8,5 for DVD1, for example) but a sequence (sic) cannot be set up as an input for the Harmony.



David - thanks for the reminder - sometimes I guess I should just read the manual every few months to remind myself of things..


This statement was my I could've had a V-8 moment. I have been trying to figure out complicated sequences of buttons to get DVD1-DVD2, SAT1-SAT2, etc. to be easily programmed on my MX-700. I have been using multiple source button pushes in timed sequences to do this.


I can go back and delete these and just use the direct access THX - # - # sequences and it will simplify things!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15472524
> 
> 
> Hey Bob, could you chime in on this? mikefl52 has me seriously considering getting a power conditioner. I'd love to get your take on this. I know it's one of these hot spots around AVS. Some say it's useless others swear by it. What’s your opinion?



There are 3 separate things lumped in here:


1) Power conditioners: Attempt to present a "clean", constant voltage, noise-free power source. This is where max current draw could be a concern.


2) Surge protectors: Attempt to react rapidly to sudden spikes in voltage and divert that voltage so that it can not reach your equipment.


3) Battery backups: Provide voltage for a period of time so that you can ride out short term power failures. Max current draw is also an issue here as is the total draw you are putting on the battery which will determine how long a power glitch it can handle (typically a few minutes at most). Again, the idea is not to be able to watch TV during a power outage, but rather to let you glide over a brief power glitch (of less than a second) without having to wait for equipment to start up again and without having to worry about whether the hard drives might not react fast enough to protect themselves. If you have a real power outage, the battery backup duration of a few minutes gives you time to power off devices manually. (Of course if the power outage happens while you are not around, then you won't be there to do that and things like always-on DVRs will just have to fend for themselves when the battery runs out.)


Personally I don't buy into power conditioners. You can pay a lot for no real gain in audio/video quality. I expect the power supply in each device to handle the wall power presented to it. If it can't do that, I'll replace it with a better engineered device. I use surge protection for my display (modest, but only partial, insurance against a costly replacement) and I use battery backup for things that have an internal disk drive or that take a long time to power up. These would include the PS3, DVRs, and the Anthem itself. As it turns out my APC battery backup also provides surge protection, so that's an added advantage, but I've got it in there primarily for the battery backup.


Due to current draw issues, I don't have my power amps on anything. They just plug straight into the wall. If I lived in an area with more lightning storms I would look into surge protection for them. But keep in mind that a direct lightning strike will produce enough energy to blow power plugs out of the wall and knock over equipment, so don't expect a surge protector to do miracles.


ETA: And while we're at it, paying money for exotic power cords or wall sockets is just silly. Ask yourself, why should the last 3 feet of power wiring make a difference when the builders put only standard power wires in your house walls, the squirrels are chewing on the power lines and transformers between you and the power station, and the power station is 50 years old and not typically run by home theater enthusiasts? It is cheaper, and probably just as effective, to draw a chalk pentagram around each piece of equipment.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15473590
> 
> 
> It is cheaper, and probably just as effective, to draw a chalk pentagram around each piece of equipment.
> 
> --Bob



I much prefer a bifurcated rhomboid using a lime green marker. Better primary colors and less intermodulation distortion.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15473590
> 
> 
> 1) Power conditioners: Attempt to present a "clean", constant voltage, noise-free power source. This is where max current draw could be a concern.
> 
> 
> 3) Battery backups: Provide voltage for a period of time so that you can ride out short term power failures. Again, the idea is not to be able to watch TV during a power outage, but rather to let you glide over a brief power glitch (of less than a second) without having to wait for equipment to start up again and without having to worry about whether the hard drives might not react fast enough to protect themselves.
> 
> 
> Personally I don't buy into power conditioners. You can pay a lot for no real gain in audio/video quality. I expect the power supply in each device to handle the wall power presented to it. If it can't do that, I'll replace it with a better engineered device.



I very much agree with your points. I would just add the following:


1) Most power conditioners (the affordable ones) do not attempt to clean up the AC sine wave (like the $2k PS Audio Power Plant units do). They just clean off the high frequency noise using low-pass filters, and of course usually include surge protection (example, Furman AC-215 for $200). Noise filtering can be effective. We had set up to demo a 5.1 system at ICES at the Las Vegas Convention Center, and we were hearing all sorts of loud crackly noise, like static, from the speakers. Finally sent someone out to a computer shop to buy a basic AC power cleaner, and the noise went away as soon as we plugged it in. But the noise came back when we re-arranged the AC power cables around the box to make them look "neat." Turned out that the noise on the dirty source AC line was able to hop right across to the cleaned output power cords unless they were kept physically separated. We even had to wrap the cleaned cords in foil to add extra isolation. But in the end the system remained perfectly quiet.


I hope no one's home AC has the kind of dirt on it that is common at ICES, but it does illustrate the concept.


So the idea of fat "audiophile" AC cords leaves me cold for exactly the reasons Bob stated, but there may well be merit in AC cords that have a shielded jacket, when used in conjunction with an AC cleaner. It might be sufficient to have only one such shielded cable in the system--the one feeding into the AC conditioner--assuming the noise is from outside the theater room. It should also be noted that switching supplies can put more HF noise on the AC than traditional transformer/rectifier supplies, so the system's components should be taken into consideration, using care in dressing the various AC cables. Bundling them all together to look nice may not be ideal.










2) If you are using a video projector, it's been advocated to use a battery backup so that in an extended outage, the unit can be put into its cooldown mode properly (bulb off, fan on) so as to avoid impacting bulb life.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15473590
> 
> 
> 
> ETA: And while we're at it, paying money for exotic power cords or wall sockets is just silly. Ask yourself, why should the last 3 feet of power wiring make a difference *when the builders put only standard power wires* in your house walls, *the squirrels are chewing on the power lines and transformers between you and the power station*, and the power station is 50 years old *and not typically run by home theater enthusiasts*? It is cheaper, and probably just as effective, *to draw a chalk pentagram around each piece of equipment.*--Bob













Point well taken!


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15474029
> 
> 
> I much prefer a bifurcated rhomboid using a lime green marker. Better primary colors and less intermodulation distortion.



Hhttp:// www.toruspower.com/rm_20_bal.htm Is anybody familar with this gear?


----------



## davidhoenig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15470883
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> I called Harmony support and had them whip me up a set of those 3 key source selectors as additional "input" definitions. Since that brought the list of input selectors to more than 8 I can't go into the input definition page of their configuration stuff myself anymore without losing some, but no matter as its set up correctly now and there's nothing I need to do in that page.
> 
> 
> In the activities and the device page, I just reference any of the definitions they've set for me just like referencing the normal inputs (such as the original "DVD" which cycles through the overlayed stuff). I.e., there is now a named "DVD1" (etc.) which results in the correct 3 key code being sent.
> 
> 
> This was done by level two support and should be available to them for your use in their database of Harmony 880 stuff for the D2 (which should apply just fine to the One). When you call Harmony support, just let the level one person know that you need some special input selection definitions added (which the level one guys can't do) and ask them to put you in the queue to level two support. Tell level two you need some additional input selection definitions added that each transmit a set of 3 key commands. And let them know that they've already done this for an 880 user for his D2 setup so they can look in the database for "DVD1", "DVD2" etc., and perhaps save themselves some time.
> 
> 
> One problem I had was that the first try they did resulted in an "input selection delay" after each transmitted key press, which meant the D2 timed out before it saw all 3 key presses. It is easy to see this happening if you watch the on screen display while trying it. I also had a problem on an Activity change where a power off command for a source device was being transmitted after the first of the input selector keys (as if the input selection was already completed) -- which meant there was a power change delay that happened before the 2nd and 3rd keys -- and again the D2 timed out before seeing them. Again this was easy to see happening on screen (while also keeping an eye on the power down and power up of the sources).
> 
> 
> But Harmony level two support is great and they just kept at it until they got it right.
> 
> 
> I suggest you have them enter definitions now for ALL of those direct access input selectors for you, even if you only intend to use a few of them at the moment.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - you rock as always! 39 views on my thread in the remote forum and not a single reply or suggestion. Thanks for your help!


Dave


----------



## davidhoenig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15472790
> 
> 
> David - thanks for the reminder - sometimes I guess I should just read the manual every few months to remind myself of things..
> 
> 
> This statement was my I could've had a V-8 moment. I have been trying to figure out complicated sequences of buttons to get DVD1-DVD2, SAT1-SAT2, etc. to be easily programmed on my MX-700. I have been using multiple source button pushes in timed sequences to do this.
> 
> 
> I can go back and delete these and just use the direct access THX - # - # sequences and it will simplify things!



Glad I was able to help!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15476362
> 
> 
> I very much agree with your points. I would just add the following:
> 
> 
> 1) Most power conditioners (the affordable ones) do not attempt to clean up the AC sine wave (like the $2k PS Audio Power Plant units do). They just clean off the high frequency noise using low-pass filters, and of course usually include surge protection (example, Furman AC-215 for $200). Noise filtering can be effective. We had set up to demo a 5.1 system at ICES at the Las Vegas Convention Center, and we were hearing all sorts of loud crackly noise, like static, from the speakers. Finally sent someone out to a computer shop to buy a basic AC power cleaner, and the noise went away as soon as we plugged it in. But the noise came back when we re-arranged the AC power cables around the box to make them look "neat." Turned out that the noise on the dirty source AC line was able to hop right across to the cleaned output power cords unless they were kept physically separated. We even had to wrap the cleaned cords in foil to add extra isolation. But in the end the system remained perfectly quiet.
> 
> 
> I hope no one's home AC has the kind of dirt on it that is common at ICES, but it does illustrate the concept.
> 
> 
> So the idea of fat "audiophile" AC cords leaves me cold for exactly the reasons Bob stated, but there may well be merit in AC cords that have a shielded jacket, when used in conjunction with an AC cleaner. It might be sufficient to have only one such shielded cable in the system--the one feeding into the AC conditioner--assuming the noise is from outside the theater room. It should also be noted that switching supplies can put more HF noise on the AC than traditional transformer/rectifier supplies, so the system's components should be taken into consideration, using care in dressing the various AC cables. Bundling them all together to look nice may not be ideal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) If you are using a video projector, it's been advocated to use a battery backup so that in an extended outage, the unit can be put into its cooldown mode properly (bulb off, fan on) so as to avoid impacting bulb life.



I would agree whole heartedly regarding the projector battery backup. Had one bulb go when power went out and since then not a lost bulb but a few power outages. Bulbs at $400 and one backup at $129. No brainer for me.

John


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/15476936
> 
> http://www.toruspower.com/rm_20_bal.htm Is anybody familar with this gear?



There is a positive review at http://www.stereophile.com/powerline...rus/index.html 

But it reads exactly the same as any of the other unproven audiophile devices: >>The PIU greatly enhanced subtle details of tone, timbre, and imaging when dynamics were extreme or volume was loud. Removing the PIU shrank the soundstage, making my system sound flatter and less detailed.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I still can't believe I own a D2! Is it normal to still be in shock and awe over a month after getting a processor?


Home Theater Bliss!

 
 

 
 


I know, I know ya'll have seen the D2 before... but ya haven't seen MINE!


----------



## davidhoenig

I cross-posted in the other forums, but I suspect, as usual, I will get a better answer here (thanks Bob P!)










Here's my issue:


I have my PS3 and Xbox connected to my Anthem D2 via HDMI. Everything is working fine.


However, whenever I try to play audio files, sent via WMP 11 Connect, the PS3 and Xbox are not sending them in PCM 2.0 format, but rather 5.1 format. The next effect is that I'm only getting stereo sound from my mains and nothing from the rest of my speakers, since the D2 thinks it's getting a multichannel signal.


If it were to receive a 2.0 signal, then it would be able to apply its processing to send the signal through all of my speakers.


Anyone find a way to work around this?


Thanks,

Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15480687
> 
> 
> I still can't believe I own a D2! Is it normal to still be in shock and awe over a month after getting a processor?
> 
> 
> Home Theater Bliss!
> 
> 
> I know, I know ya'll have seen the D2 before... but ya haven't seen MINE!



-43dB?


Dang! Imagine how much better it will sound when you turn the volume up!










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/15481375
> 
> 
> I cross-posted in the other forums, but I suspect, as usual, I will get a better answer here (thanks Bob P!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my issue:
> 
> 
> I have my PS3 and Xbox connected to my Anthem D2 via HDMI. Everything is working fine.
> 
> 
> However, whenever I try to play audio files, sent via WMP 11 Connect, the PS3 and Xbox are not sending them in PCM 2.0 format, but rather 5.1 format. The next effect is that I'm only getting stereo sound from my mains and nothing from the rest of my speakers, since the D2 thinks it's getting a multichannel signal.
> 
> 
> If it were to receive a 2.0 signal, then it would be able to apply its processing to send the signal through all of my speakers.
> 
> 
> Anyone find a way to work around this?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave



This is a long-standing bug in the PS3. It outputs this as 5.1 (or 7.1 for other AVRs) with only the LF/RF channels actually active. I don't use the PS3 this way so I haven't tried to work around it, but I've seen some posts over in the PS3 sticky thread in the Blu-Ray player forum here indicating there's a workaround that involves telling the PS3 to upsample the 2.0 content to a higher sampling rate -- which apparently causes it to decide to output it as 2.0 as well. You'd best ask over there (use the PS3 FAQ sticky thread). I think they just fixed this bug for CD playback in the last firmware release, so maybe they'll fix it for streamed audio soon as well.


I don't know anything about the XBOX.


----------------------------------------------------


There's no workaround I know of within the Anthem itself.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15481775
> 
> 
> -43dB?
> 
> 
> Dang! Imagine how much better it will sound when you turn the volume up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



LOL!!!


I watched The Dark Knight at -9dB and my ears were ringing for a few hours after. That Bryston will let ya feel it! It was like I went to a concert. I thinks to meself, I can't do that very often or I'll be deff by the time me's 50!


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15472524
> 
> 
> Hey Bob, could you chime in on this? mikefl52 has me seriously considering getting a power conditioner. I'd love to get your take on this. I know it's one of these hot spots around AVS. Some say it's useless others swear by it. What's your opinion?



I was not suggesting power conditioning.


I was suggesting using a surge protection that was not going to choke the ability to draw current whihc I believe most of the MOV designed devices (including Monster surge protection) do, but which the Richard Gray (surge protenctions as opposed to power conditioning) do not. Not only that but MOVs will deteriorate over time with each surge occurance.


I also suggseted a UPS not to be able to operate during an extended outage, but to smooth out the on - off - on - off - on occurances that are pretty common here in Florida during storms or to allow a controlled shut down of equipment if the outage is longer than a minute or so.


----------



## bluemark81

I just got the Harmony One remote and trying to figure out how to learn the "setup" button and the "video processor" button which requires you to hold the corresponding buttons on the Anthem remote to get these screens to come up on the TV. I was able to get it to learn these buttons for their primary function, but not the secondary function when you hold them down.


Has anyone with the Harmony One come across this same issue and found a solution to it? I talked to level 1 tech support and they were of no help. I am going to try to get in touch with level 2 tonight to see if they have a fix, but if I can avoid that and get and answer here, it would be great.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15484934
> 
> 
> I just got the Harmony One remote and trying to figure out how to learn the "setup" button and the "video processor" button which requires you to hold the corresponding buttons on the Anthem remote to get these screens to come up on the TV. I was able to get it to learn these buttons for their primary function, but not the secondary function when you hold them down.
> 
> 
> Has anyone with the Harmony One come across this same issue and found a solution to it? I talked to level 1 tech support and they were of no help. I am going to try to get in touch with level 2 tonight to see if they have a fix, but if I can avoid that and get and answer here, it would be great.



Honestly, I didn't bother. I use the 880 and I set it up using the computer no problem. I use the Harmony for all the basic functions. Turning stuff on and off, switching between sources and of course volume settings. The Harmony is pretty much used 95% of the time. However when I need to get into the actual internal settings of the D2 I just grab the actual D2 remote and do what I have to do.


That's likely easier than trying to set the Harmony up to do all the technical stuff you'll hardly ever use.


----------



## Shrike645

At one time the hold function (video processing) for my harmony 880 worked with the database that was loaded from logitech. I made a change to tweak some functions and add a device and it all broke. I think at the time Bob said something about the logitech site being messed up and I haven't gone back to try to reload the anthem. I'd be interested in what anybody has to say too. I've never been able to get it to use zone 2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15484934
> 
> 
> I just got the Harmony One remote and trying to figure out how to learn the "setup" button and the "video processor" button which requires you to hold the corresponding buttons on the Anthem remote to get these screens to come up on the TV. I was able to get it to learn these buttons for their primary function, but not the secondary function when you hold them down.
> 
> 
> Has anyone with the Harmony One come across this same issue and found a solution to it? I talked to level 1 tech support and they were of no help. I am going to try to get in touch with level 2 tonight to see if they have a fix, but if I can avoid that and get and answer here, it would be great.



I'm surprised that Logitech/Harmony has not updated their database for the D2 yet to fix this.


Yes, level two support can change the code on those buttons so that press-and-hold works correctly. There's no way you can fix this yourself.


-------------------------------------------------


The three problems I had to get level two to fix for my Harmony 880's D2 device conifiguration were:


1) Addition of the the various 3-key input selectors (e.g., DVD2). The ability of users to add such selectors on their own was taken out of the Harmony setup stuff early last year.


2) Press-and-hold buttons such as the setup menu, the audio mode, and the "7" key.


3) Adjusting the codes for volume up/down and the 4 arrow keys so that they didn't advance by multiple steps with each press. This was needed when Harmony made some sort of firmware change for the remote last summer that appears to make it use a "repeat count" on those buttons even when the configuration has repeat count set to 0 or 1. This may only be an 880 problem and may even be fixed generically by now (I haven't updated my 880 firmware in many months).


If you have had your Harmony configuration for a while (i.e., you had another Harmony prior to getting your new One), it may be that you will get updated stuff in the D2 definition simply by deleting that device from your configuration and re-entering it as a new device. Of course that means you will need to re-attach it to all of your activities which is a nuisance.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/15486317
> 
> 
> At one time the hold function (video processing) for my harmony 880 worked with the database that was loaded from logitech. I made a change to tweak some functions and add a device and it all broke. I think at the time Bob said something about the logitech site being messed up and I haven't gone back to try to reload the anthem. I'd be interested in what anybody has to say too. I've never been able to get it to use zone 2.



The Anthem is like 4 devices in one box: Main path, Zone 2, Zone 3, and Record. All 4 of these devices share one remote control.


The buttons at the top left of the Anthem remote let you alter the codes the remote sends out according to which of those devices you want to control at the moment -- just like you can press the DVD button up there to have the remote send out commands your DVD player understands (presuming your DVD player is one of the models precoded into the Anthem remote).


The Harmony stuff is not designed to switch command sets like that. So what you would have to do is set up 4 devices in Harmony -- one for Main, one for Zone 2, etc. And then set up activities that use the Zone 2 device. This is not that bad since there are a limited number of buttons you are likely to actually use for Zone2, Zone3, and Record use.


Now the problem is that I don't think Harmony has a database entry for anything except the Main path codes. So you would probably have to "learn" all of the buttons for a Zone 2 device, etc. But before doing that, give Harmony level two support a call and see whether they might already have all that stuff in the version of the database that only they can see. If so, they can easily set up the extra devices for you and you can then use them in your Activities as you see fit.


Alternatively you could add all these extra buttons into the single device definition you currently use for the Main path, but I suspect that might be more confusing, particularly since the Zone2 stuff can be powered on and off independently from the Main path -- i.e., it fits best into the Harmony scheme as if it were a separate device.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

I have concluded arc measurement for '09: reason: added another sub.

I followed bob's procedure for zeroing out the LF and sub etc.

The measurement started as normal; i.e. the LF pinged nine times, went silent, and i waited for the ctr to start - but, no, it did not!

Instead, I was given the standard error message (03 #$#) and arc asked if i wanted to abort or proceed. I proceeded, and the CENTER issued forth nine pings[typically, the ctr only pings five times] .

The rest of the measurement went according to plan.[ yes, on succeeding mic locations, the LF did ping nine times per mic postition. Then, the rest of the speakers pinged five times each, which is as it should be - i believe. BUT, on the opening[/color][/u][/color] series of pings, the LF does not get recorded.

(charts attached)

So- is this a bug? By not starting with the full range LF speaker( as opposed to the smaller ctr) am I losing something important in the measurement process? If setting the LF front as the reference is really important, then i must be losing some part of the data that arc needs.

but - i do not know!


----------



## Shrike645

I'm not at home right now so can't double check some things but I'm sure i tried to learn the zone 2 commands and it didn't work. I have tried setting up zone two as a seperate device and i beleive logitech leads you to believe if you search for the device to add and when it asks for the model you type in "d2 zone 2" it does find it and changes the model to "Statement D2 (Zone 2)" which makes you think that it would then use zone 2 commands (I'm mostly interested in the power on / off and volume) just like the original remote with the zone 2 button slected but that never worked for me.


I do plan on removing the D2 ad setting it all up again, hopefully things are fixed but i suspect the zone 2 will not work. I can't do this until tomorrow night at the earliest.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15483795
> 
> 
> I was not suggesting power conditioning.
> 
> 
> I was suggesting using a surge protection that was not going to choke the ability to draw current whihc I believe most of the MOV designed devices (including Monster surge protection) do, but which the Richard Gray (surge protenctions as opposed to power conditioning) do not. Not only that but MOVs will deteriorate over time with each surge occurance.



I looked at all the surge protectors at http://www.richardgrayspowercompany....?type=parallel and they all use MOVs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15488768
> 
> 
> I have concluded arc measurement for '09: reason: added another sub.
> 
> I followed bob's procedure for zeroing out the LF and sub etc.
> 
> The measurement started as normal; i.e. the LF pinged nine times, went silent, and i waited for the ctr to start - but, no, it did not!
> 
> Instead, I was given the standard error message (03 #$#) and arc asked if i wanted to abort or proceed. I proceeded, and the CENTER issued forth nine pings[typically, the ctr only pings five times] .
> 
> The rest of the measurement went according to plan.[ yes, on succeeding mic locations, the LF did ping nine times per mic postition. Then, the rest of the speakers pinged five times each, which is as it should be - i believe. BUT, on the opening[/color][/u][/color] series of pings, the LF does not get recorded.
> 
> (charts attached)
> 
> So- is this a bug? By not starting with the full range LF speaker( as opposed to the smaller ctr) am I losing something important in the measurement process? If setting the LF front as the reference is really important, then i must be losing some part of the data that arc needs.
> 
> but - i do not know!



I think you are fine with these Measurements. When ARC complains about a speaker and you tell it to retry it just redoes that one speaker. So the LF Measurements it did just before that were still in there.


I'm not exactly sure what algorithm ARC uses to decide how many times to re-issue the sweep tone at each speaker, but I suspect it just does it until it has enough passes that are close matches to each other (discarding any passes that deviate). So it is likely not important that it did 9 passes for your Center. Or perhaps when you tell it to retry a speaker, as you did with the Center, it throws in a few extra passes for safety.


ARC mutes and un-mutes speakers as it cycles through them -- done via the serial cable commands -- and sometimes the command to un-mute the next speaker doesn't take (thus no sound from that speaker). ARC detects this, complains, and, when you tell it to retry, it un-mutes again which usually does the trick -- as in your case.


The bottom line is that your Measurements are probably fine as is.


--------------------------------------------------


Now, the results you've got are looking promising. First of all, your new sub looks fine all the way down to 20Hz.


You added a note about the RF speaker looking odd, but its red (Measured) curve is just about what I would expect. The LF speaker looks like it is getting some unwanted bass boost -- possibly boundary gain due to wall proximity -- but ARC has taken care of that.


Really all you need to do is reset the the Max EQ Frequency target to a higher value than the 5KHz default and re-Calculate and re-Upload those results (no need to re-Measure).


The Measured curves on all your speakers already look clean enough that you might be able to push that all the way up to 20KHz. But just try a few values and see how high up you can go without additional error wiggles starting to appear at lower frequencies in the green (Calculated) curves.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

Does anyone know if ARC sets the speaker size to "Large" or "Small"? This setting is not visible. At least, I have not seen it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC uses the "Advanced" speaker settings that allow the crossovers to be set in detail rather than the simpler Large/Small stuff. [I'm assuming you understand that "Large" vs. "Small" has nothing to do with the physical size of the speaker, but rather whether it is being used as a full frequency range speaker (Large) or as a speaker that is set to roll off at some point in the bass frequencies (Small).]


Simply put, ARC uses a fancy version of "Small" for all the speakers -- setting their crossover, and also the low end of the ARC Room Correction processing -- to best blend with the subwoofer. If you have full range fronts and want to force ARC to use them to their limits (as opposed to what ARC thinks is best), you can do so by adjusting the crossover targets for them in the Targets window to the lowest allowed value (25Hz) and then re-Calculating and re-Uploading the results (no need to re-Measure).


NOTE 1: There is a trick to doing this in the "official" ARC V1.2.5 if you want to set up a 2.0 speaker configuration (just fronts, no subwoofer) for Music. You need to let ARC actually set up a 2.1 configuration, then lower the crossovers for the fronts as described above, then Calculate and Upload those results as a 2.1 configuration, and then go into the Setup menu and manually turn off the subwoofer in the configuration. The need to do this will likely be fixed in the next ARC version.


NOTE 2: The technique for forcing full range speakers on ARC is a little different in the "test" ARC V1.2.13 software due to the separation of the concepts of "crossover" and "cutoff" at the low frequencies, but since that software is still in progress I'll just leave it at this for now.

*****>> My recommendation, by the way, is that you do *NOT* try to second guess the decisions that ARC has made about crossovers Targets.*


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2v May be Coming!*


"Test" ARC V1.2.14 has just appeared on Anthem's password protected download page. The changes from V1.2.5 are shown below. Note the first one!


I'm not sure which V1.2.13 changes survived into V1.2.14. You may recall that when V1.2.13 appeared on this Anthem download page, the release notes were updated only to include some additional items that actually happened in V1.2.12 (or earlier), but which had not been mentioned in the original V1.2.12 release notes.



> Quote:
> Changes:
> 
> 
> v1.2.14:
> 
> *1. Works with D2v.*
> 
> 
> 
> v1.2.12:
> 
> 
> 1. Change to how sub crossover frequency is selected to address cases where the sub is a lot closer to the listener than the center channel, causing dialog to be heard from the sub if its crossover was set high enough.
> 
> 
> 2. More settings available for configurations not using a subwoofer. Note that while the front channels will be set to Large in the setup menu, ARC will still create a low frequency contour on the room correction target based on response at those frequencies. This cutoff frequency, displayed in the Targets panel, is separate from the bass manager's crossover.
> 
> 
> 3. The Targets panel also has options for setting the processor's bass manager to run channels at full range. These are best left unchecked, especially for surround channels since surround speakers are usually smaller.
> 
> 
> 4. Selecting Rears for measurement is not allowed if Surrounds are unselected. (In a 5.1 system use Surround channels, not Rears.)
> 
> 
> 5. Improved measurement at very low frequencies. Since this relates to frequencies below the lowest note on a bass guitar, it may not make a difference depending on existing in-room response.
> 
> 
> 6. Improved measurement at very high frequencies.
> 
> 
> If you have a file measured with a v1.2 ARC release, no remeasurement is necessary to obtain the above. To convert the file format just open the file with the latest version of ARC, calculate, and upload.



ETA: So far nothing new has appeared in the D2 firmware section of that download page.


ETA 2: So far nothing new has appeared on the web site of the public relations firm Anthem uses for press releases either.


--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15489752
> 
> 
> ARC uses the "Advanced" speaker settings that allow the crossovers to be set in detail rather than the simpler Large/Small stuff. [I'm assuming you understand that "Large" vs. "Small" has nothing to do with the physical size of the speaker, but rather whether it is being used as a full frequency range speaker (Large) or as a speaker that is set to roll off at some point in the bass frequencies (Small).]
> 
> 
> Simply put, ARC uses a fancy version of "Small" for all the speakers -- setting their crossover, and also the low end of the ARC Room Correction processing -- to best blend with the subwoofer. If you have full range fronts and want to force ARC to use them to their limits (as opposed to what ARC thinks is best), you can do so by adjusting the crossover targets for them in the Targets window to the lowest allowed value (25Hz) and then re-Calculating and re-Uploading the results (no need to re-Measure).
> 
> 
> NOTE 1: There is a trick to doing this in the "official" ARC V1.2.5 if you want to set up a 2.0 speaker configuration (just fronts, no subwoofer) for Music. You need to let ARC actually set up a 2.1 configuration, then lower the crossovers for the fronts as described above, then Calculate and Upload those results as a 2.1 configuration, and then go into the Setup menu and manually turn off the subwoofer in the configuration. The need to do this will likely be fixed in the next ARC version.
> 
> 
> NOTE 2: The technique for forcing full range speakers on ARC is a little different in the "test" ARC V1.2.13 software due to the separation of the concepts of "crossover" and "cutoff" at the low frequencies, but since that software is still in progress I'll just leave it at this for now.
> 
> *****>> My recommendation, by the way, is that you do *NOT* try to second guess the decisions that ARC has made about crossovers Targets.*


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Hah! Found it! CES Press Release on Anthem D2v!*

http://www.hometoys.com/news_detail.php?id=13384216 



> Quote:
> UPGRADES TO ANTHEM’S STATEMENT D2V MAKE IT A PROCESSING AND PERFORMANCE SUPERPOWER - VENETIAN TOWER 33-133
> 
> For more info visit: http://www.anthemav.com/
> 
> More connections, better A/V processing and support for the latest audio formats make v.2 of the acclaimed D2 preamplifier/processor an A/V-phile’s dream.
> 
> Submitted to HomeToys.com on: 12/15/2008, 1:14 pm
> 
> LAS VEGAS, NV – CES 2009 – January 8-11, 2009 – The Venetian Tower Room 30-133 – Anthem, a leading manufacturer of high-end electronics for music, home theater and distributed audio systems, announces the availability of version 2 of its award-winning Statement D2 audio/video processor. This next-generation model enhances the unparalleled performance features found in its first iteration with serious upgrades.
> 
> 
> As a pioneer in the troubleshooting and integration of HDMI™, Anthem knows better than most how to utilize these connections to their fullest. The Statement D2v is equipped with four additional HDMI inputs (for a total of eight) as well as one additional HDMI output (for a total of two), resulting in unprecedented connection capabilities for a preamplifier/processor. All inputs and outputs are HDMI 1.3c and offer Deep-Color support (36-bit) and high-definition audio streaming.
> 
> 
> More connections are useful, of course, but performance is king. With that in mind, the Anthem Statement D2v delivers outstanding video enhancement courtesy of the updated VXP® digital image processor. This “latest-generation” processor offers two complete, independent 12-bit channels of professional-grade fully-adaptive deinterlacing. In addition, it includes adaptive 3D noise reduction, mosquito noise reduction, block artifact reduction, adaptive detail enhancement featuring sharpness and texture enhancement with overshoot control, and adaptive contrast enhancement. Its powerful, multi-layered graphics engine allows for sophisticated on-screen display generation that is ideal for electronic program guides (EPG) and set-up menus.
> 
> 
> Audio performance on the Statement D2v is has been ramped up to meet the demands of emerging HD audio standards. Two dual-core digital signal processor (DSP) engines offer 800 MIPS (million instructions per second) of processing power to allow eight-channel decoding of new HD audio standards like Dolby® Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD™ High-Resolution Audio and DTS-HD™ Master Audio. The Anthem Statement D2 v.2 also supports DVD audio in 7.1 format up to 192 kHz.
> 
> 
> Anthem’s new Room Correction System (ARC-1™) will also be a standard feature on all Statement D2v preamplifier/processors. While equalizing frequency response in a room to achieve some generic (i.e. "flat") response is a common approach to solving the problem, it will result in an unnatural spectral balance since it does not take into account the human hearing system. Anthem's approach is a true audiophile solution: Anthem Room Correction differs from other systems in that it uses proprietary processing to compute each speaker's in-room frequency response and then computes a target frequency response for each to yield the optimal sound.
> 
> 
> Estimated FMV for the Anthem Statement D2v is $7999. For more information, please visit www.anthemav.com .
> 
> 
> *Key features of VXP™ technology include:
> 
> 
> • Superior image quality using per-pixel processing.
> 
> • Very robust film mode detection.
> 
> • TruMotionHD™ Adaptive De-Interlacing to ensure optimal image sharpness and picture resolution when converting 480i, 576i and 1080i inputs to progressive scan.
> 
> • FineEdge™ Dynamic Directional Interpolation to eliminate jaggy artifacts (i.e. temporal distortion) found in traditional de-interlacing algorithms.
> 
> • FidelityEngine™ Image Enhancements to remove unwanted noise and improve detail.
> 
> • RealityExpansion™ True 10-Bit Image Processing for eye-catching natural imagery.
> 
> 
> Anthem, part of the Paradigm Group, is a leading manufacturer of award-winning high-end electronics for music, home theater and distributed sound systems sold internationally under the brand names Anthem™ and Anthem™ Statement. Anthem™ products are used at all levels of music reproduction and allow you to virtually "be there" every time you listen to a favorite piece of recorded music or experience the excitement of surround-sound home theater. Headquarters are in Mississauga, Ontario, Canada.



I don't see any changes from the info they released at CEDIA back in September -- other than settling on the name "D2v".


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here's another CES press release, this time from Paradigm, talking about their new "Reference Signature Sub 25", which, perhaps confusingly, is a 15" cone-size entry into the $4000 sub category:

http://www.hometoys.com/news_detail.php?id=17770371 


Note this snippet from near the end of the release:



> Quote:
> An optional yet valuable add-on for the SUB 25 is Paradigm’s Perfect Bass Kit (PBK-1™) interface, a state-of-the-art room correction system derived from sister company Anthem Electronics’ acclaimed ARC-1™ system. PBK-1 uses proprietary processing to compute in-room frequency response of up to four different SUB 25s before computing a target frequency response for each, yielding optimized in-room reproduction of low frequencies.



The release shows a $299 price for the PBK-1. I've not been able to find out if this is another piece of electronics (in addition to a Windows application), or if the necessary hardware is already built into the sub and you are just paying for the software license and microphone stuff.

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645

started setting up my Harmony 880 again.


Earlier to verify my statement about adding a d2 with zone 2 in the model I left it like that. Just now I went and deleted the original d2 and readded it to start setting it up again. It then immediatly told me that this device can be used in multiple rooms or zones and provides check boxes and text boxes to select and name the 3 zones. This looks promising and perhaps I don't need to add the d2 as a second device to get zone 2.


Hal


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That sounds promising indeed! Let us know how it works out.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Thanks for the info Bob. I hope it's 100% better than the D2 because at 50% off I'll be upgrading for sure.


Is it possible to fall in love with a processor?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15485450
> 
> 
> Honestly, I didn't bother. I use the 880 and I set it up using the computer no problem. I use the Harmony for all the basic functions. Turning stuff on and off, switching between sources and of course volume settings. The Harmony is pretty much used 95% of the time. However when I need to get into the actual internal settings of the D2 I just grab the actual D2 remote and do what I have to do.
> 
> 
> That's likely easier than trying to set the Harmony up to do all the technical stuff you'll hardly ever use.



The reason I buy a relatively expensive universal remote is to be able to put my other remotes away and forget about them.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15490279
> 
> 
> That sounds promising indeed! Let us know how it works out.
> 
> --Bob



The zone 2 and zone 3 boxes appear to be reversed when you label them on the setup site. For example if I check "room 2" when I go to the next step it says it's on statement d2 zone 3 and vice versa. I'm not home until tomorrow so can't verify if it's just the labeling or if the controls are actually reversed. I would say it's a bug on the logitech site.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15486425
> 
> 
> I'm surprised that Logitech/Harmony has not updated their database for the D2 yet to fix this.
> 
> 
> Yes, level two support can change the code on those buttons so that press-and-hold works correctly. There's no way you can fix this yourself.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The three problems I had to get level two to fix for my Harmony 880's D2 device conifiguration were:
> 
> 
> 1) Addition of the the various 3-key input selectors (e.g., DVD2). The ability of users to add such selectors on their own was taken out of the Harmony setup stuff early last year.
> 
> 
> 2) Press-and-hold buttons such as the setup menu, the audio mode, and the "7" key.
> 
> 
> 3) Adjusting the codes for volume up/down and the 4 arrow keys so that they didn't advance by multiple steps with each press. This was needed when Harmony made some sort of firmware change for the remote last summer that appears to make it use a "repeat count" on those buttons even when the configuration has repeat count set to 0 or 1. This may only be an 880 problem and may even be fixed generically by now (I haven't updated my 880 firmware in many months).
> 
> 
> If you have had your Harmony configuration for a while (i.e., you had another Harmony prior to getting your new One), it may be that you will get updated stuff in the D2 definition simply by deleting that device from your configuration and re-entering it as a new device. Of course that means you will need to re-attach it to all of your activities which is a nuisance.
> 
> --Bob



Tech 2 support at Harmony took care of the hold feature. Discovering other issues as I delve deeper, but I'm sure they'll get resolved.....thanks


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15490166
> 
> 
> Here's another CES press release, this time from Paradigm, talking about their new "Reference Signature Sub 25", which, perhaps confusingly, is a 15" cone-size entry into the $4000 sub category:
> 
> http://www.hometoys.com/news_detail.php?id=17770371
> 
> 
> Note this snippet from near the end of the release:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The release shows a $299 price for the PBK-1. I've not been able to find out if this is another piece of electronics (in addition to a Windows application), or if the necessary hardware is already built into the sub and you are just paying for the software license and microphone stuff.
> 
> --Bob



I heard from a rep that the arc1 owners won't need the PBK-1, we just use the acr1 for the sub 25. This software will be avalible for none Anthem owners.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quite correct. If you have ARC you don't also need PBK. I just found it interesting that Paradigm has found another way to package this technology. Of course ARC is superior because it also corrects the main speakers.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

bob, by looking at my sub graph how can you tell my sub goes down to 25hz,and how can i get it to go lower i should be able to go much lower, i have a paradigm signature series sub.

 

arc pictures.doc 432k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15492943
> 
> 
> bob, by looking at my sub graph how can you tell my sub goes down to 25hz,and how can i get it to go lower i should be able to go much lower, i have a paradigm signature series sub.



Look at any of the main speaker charts and focus on the dashed (Target) curve. Find the volume level for the flat part of that curve to the right of the crossover frequencies -- i.e, in the mid-range frequencies.


This is what I've been calling the "basic level" that ARC is targeting for your setup. In your case that's about 73dB. The hump to the left of that is the Room Gain that ARC is trying to preserve for your room.


Now go to the subwoofer chart and focus on the green (Calculated) curve which shows the results ARC thinks it will achieve with your subwoofer. Notice that this curve also has a hump -- rising above the basic target level you found above (again, roughly 73dB for your setup) over a certain span of frequencies.


Look on the left side of that hump and spot the frequency where the green curve drops down below the basic target level. In your case that's around 25hz.


This means you've got sub goodness down to 25Hz. Below that, your sub is dropping off. It isn't a hard cutoff but your sub is producing less and less energy below that frequency. Now this is only a rough measure of what your sub is doing down there, but it is still a good basis for comparison between sub setups.


-------------------------------------------------


Now if you think your sub should do better (i.e., go lower) then look at the red (Measured) curve to see if it gives any clues. In your case you've got a sharp peak just above that frequency (roughly 28Hz) that ARC needs to eliminate. Then things really do drop off a cliff below that. The peak is likely a room resonance -- precisely the sort of thing ARC is designed to fix.


But the sharp drop off below that is likely a limitation of your sub itself.


Some subs have an adjustable "subsonic filter" which limits their low end. This protects the sub against very low frequencies that are often transients which may cause it to bottom out. See if you have one of those on your sub that you can set to a lower frequency. It wouldn't surprise me to learn that your sub has one set to 25Hz at the moment.


Also consider placing your sub closer to a solid wall or corner which will give you additional boost at the lowest frequencies due to "boundary gain" (and might also alter how the sub is coupling to the room and, with luck, reduce that peak at 28Hz before ARC has to deal with it).


But again, if ARC needs to clamp down on the sub to fix unwanted peaks a little higher up, you may not see any improvement in the lowest frequencies.


Finally, consider whether your sub is properly sized for the total cubic feet of air it has to pressurize in your listening room. If a sub is undersized for a room it will show up in the lowest frequencies first since that's where it has to huff the most air to get the same sound pressure level in the room. A sub spec'ed to go down to 16Hz for example, won't actually achieve that if the room is too big for it. Openings to other rooms increase the cubic feet of air volume the sub has to pressurize.


-------------------------------------


Any such changes in sub setup or positioning (even inches matter) will mean you have to do a new Measurement pass in ARC.

--Bob


----------



## FredHooper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15489222
> 
> 
> I looked at all the surge protectors at Richard Grays Power Company and they all use MOVs.



I've used Brick Wall (on my AV system) and Zero Surge (on my computer) and neither uses MOV's. In a quick search for both I found a post on Tech Republic that says: "Use a UL 1449 adjunct testing A-1-1 certified surge suppressers before the UPS. The only surge suppressors to obtain UL 1449 adjunct testing A-1-1 are Series Mode covered by U.S., patents #4,870,528 and #4,870,534." It said that units by Brick Wall, Zero Surge, Surgex and Adcom are the only ones that are so certified.


There have been some audiophile reviews on the Brick Wall units, which (according to memory) found "no degradation" to "some improvement" in sound and video. Not raves, but protection is what I was after. The technology in the two units was developed by Zero Surge but they are late to the audiophile market and I haven't seen any reviews of their audiophile units.


Fred


----------



## buckley44

Bob, is it called a subsonic filter on the sub. all i have is cut off frequency, contour, phase adjustment , i also have my sub in the back of the room because of limitations and it is up against a wall about 1' away, and open area's in the room due to my set up being in my family room ( 13'x3o') paradigm specs show the sub can go down to 10 hz and a cut off from 25 to 150 hz...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15495105
> 
> 
> Bob, is it called a subsonic filter on the sub. all i have is cut off frequency, contour, phase adjustment , i also have my sub in the back of the room because of limitations and it is up against a wall about 1' away, and open area's in the room due to my set up being in my family room ( 13'x3o') paradigm specs show the sub can go down to 10 hz and a cut off from 25 to 150 hz...



What they are calling a "cut off" frequency is likely the built-in crossover in the sub -- the thing that cuts off the *HIGH* end of its response when you don't have some external device managing that already. When used with the D2 (whether or not you are using ARC) you want to disable the internal crossover in your sub and let the D2 do the work so that crossover processing isn't happening twice. Some subs have a switch that disables their internal crossover. Others have a separate set of input jacks that bypass their internal crossover. If your sub has neither then crank up it's internal crossover to the highest possible frequency (150Hz in your case) to get it out of the way as much as possible. Then re-Measure with ARC.


The thing I was talking about in the post above -- the "subsonic filter" -- cuts off the *LOW* end of the sub's response. In some, but not all, subs, the subsonic filter is adjustable. Typically it will have an adjustment range of something like 15Hz to 30Hz, with a roll off below that in the range of 6dB to 12dB per octave.


Keep in mind when sizing a sub for a room, that it is the cubic feet of air volume that matters -- not the square footage of floor space. A room with taller ceilings puts more demands on a sub than a room with lower ceilings of the same floor shape. And again, openings to other rooms or up/down stairs also increase the cubic feet of volume the sub sees. This is why you need to do your ARC Measurements with doors open/closed as you have them while doing normal listening. Even a closet or bathroom door open or closed will alter the room's bass response.


The Velodyne site has a simple calculator on it that suggests an appropriate size of their subs for a given listening room cubic feet value. You might want to try that to get a second opinion on whether your sub is big enough. In my case I found the Velodyne calculator was a bit conservative. They claim I should need one of their 18" subs whereas I'm doing just fine with one of their 15" subs.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

buckley44,

Did you mean to say you have the sub 1 foot away from that wall? Moving the sub up against that wall (instead of 1 foot away) will increase any "boundary gain" at the lowest frequencies. A corner placement does this even more.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Anthem web site is still touting the "Factory Authorized Sale" for the D2 and the AVM-50. I thought this was supposed to be over by now. Has it been extended?


Any dealers care to chime in with an update?

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15495807
> 
> 
> The Anthem web site is still touting the "Factory Authorized Sale" for the D2 and the AVM-50. I thought this was supposed to be over by now. Has it been extended?
> 
> 
> Any dealers care to chime in with an update?
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jim E.* /forum/post/15412861
> 
> 
> Finally, the factory sale on both the AVM 50 with ARC-1 and D2 is OVER. They were sold out as of 12/29/08. Sorry. :-( In fact, when I talked to Nick G. at Anthem yesterday he didn't even know that until I told him.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Jim E.



I was told the sale ended Dec 31. Jim said they were sold out. Perhaps they're planning on changing the site over to the new D2v right away and won't bother changing the sale announcement until they do? I'd expect the new models to appear on Anthems site soon.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15495969
> 
> 
> I was told the sale ended Dec 31. Jim said they were sold out. Perhaps they're planning on changing the site over to the new D2v right away and won't bother changing the sale announcement until they do? I'd expect the new models to appear on Anthems site soon.



We should know more soon.


Benoit


----------



## buckley44

yes bob i have the sub 1' away from the wall, maybe ill try moving it closer. thank you..


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15499916
> 
> 
> We should know more soon.
> 
> 
> Benoit



Oh you tease!


----------



## jayray

Just did measurement with 1.2.14 and the cutoffs are now better. The graphs show improvement and no negative changes. With music it sounded very detailed with smooth bass. Will test with movies tonight. So far so good. Prior measurements with calculations in 1.2.14, also showed smoother high end.

John


----------



## ~Ohdee~

How do I go about getting access to Anthem's password protected download page?


----------



## jayray

It seems the practice here is to call Anthem tech and they will give you the password.

John


----------



## thrang




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/15464930
> 
> 
> My dealer told me that they are going into production this month and that pricing will be confirmed at CES this weekend.
> 
> 
> However, someone posted earlier that they were holding pricing at the D2v1 level.



My understanding is they will begin shipping at the end of next week at an "introductory" price of $7499, moving later to $7999. How long the introductory price holds was not clear.


So I was very close to accepting delivery on a Denon AVP-A1HDCI, when I got news of the D2V2 availability soon...I can switch if I choose to - I would save about 15% buying the D2V2 over the A1+Audyssey Pro kit combo...but the A1 is a beast in its own right....please add to my anguish and post your comparative thoughts if you're familiar with both the A1 and the current D2 with ARC.....


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15500741
> 
> 
> How do I go about getting access to Anthem's password protected download page?



Anthem tech support will give you a password.

The next question is why do you want to upgrade to a test firmware?

Were you advised to do so by Anthem tech?

Are you not happy with v1.2.5?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Unless you are advised by Anthem tech to use the test software, you use it at your own peril.

When they work out the bugs it will posted on the official page. My suggestion to you is to wait until then.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

~Ohdee~,

It's no big secret, but Anthem is trying to keep track of who is using these "test" software versions -- at the very least to make sure you are aware it is software still under development and thus may come with some unpleasant surprises. So I don't give out the password, but if you contact Anthem tech support with a problem, or even just because you want to help test stuff before it becomes "official", odds are they will give you the password.


Please note that in the past some "test" software versions were put up to address problems peculiar to particular production versions of the hardware, or particular combinations of home theater equipment -- and were not intended to be used by everyone. And some "test" software versions had sufficiently nasty problems that they had to be pulled, even as "test" software, within days.


If you don't like surprises, and just want things to work so you can enjoy them, it is always best to stick to the "official" versions that are on Anthem's public (non-password protected) download pages.


And with the D2v apparently about to ship, this new version of ARC will likely become "official" fairly soon.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15500741
> 
> 
> How do I go about getting access to Anthem's password protected download page?



I Agree with TOM



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15501727
> 
> 
> If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
> 
> 
> Tom



You are a new D2 Owner. You are HAPPY with your D2.


DO NOT ROCK THE BOAT


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Thanks for the advice. Everything is working as it should so I'll wait until the software becomes official before I play with it.


----------



## nine ball




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15490166
> 
> 
> Here's another CES press release, this time from Paradigm, talking about their new "Reference Signature Sub 25", which, perhaps confusingly, is a 15" cone-size entry into the $4000 sub category:
> 
> http://www.hometoys.com/news_detail.php?id=17770371
> 
> 
> Note this snippet from near the end of the release:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The release shows a $299 price for the PBK-1. I've not been able to find out if this is another piece of electronics (in addition to a Windows application), or if the necessary hardware is already built into the sub and you are just paying for the software license and microphone stuff.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, does this suggest that more than one sub might be configured independently rather than multi subs treated as a single entity as is the case today?


Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've no idea. All I know about the PBK-1 is what's in that press release.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*AVM 50v Formally Announced!*


The CEDIA announcement of the Statement D2v last September (at that time called the Statement D2 v.2) made no mention of similar changes for the AVM-50. We quickly got verbal assurance from Anthem contacts that the AVM-50 would be treated similarly, but there was no official public statement.


Anthem has now addressed that. Here's the CES press release from the site of the PR company Anthem and Paradigm use for such things:

http://www.castercomm.com/prView.cfm?cid=111&id=247 



> Quote:
> Photo Gallery
> 
> Anthem, part of Paradigm Electronics Inc, is a leading manufacturer of award-winning high-end electronics for music, home theater, and distributed sound systems, sold internationally under the brand names Anthem® and Anthem® Statement. Anthem products are used at all levels of music reproduction and allow you to virtually "be there" every time you listen to a favorite piece of recorded music or experience the excitement of surround-sound home theater. Headquarters are Mississauga, Canada. Anthem® and Anthem® Statement are trademarks of Anthem/Sonic Frontiers International.
> 
> 
> 
> ANTHEM UNVEILS THE LATEST AUDIO/VIDEO MASTER 50
> 
> 
> The AVM 50v features improved processing capabilities, additional HDMI inputs and the heralded Anthem Room Correction (ARC-1) system.
> 
> 
> LAS VEGAS, NV - CES 2008 - January 8-11, 2009 - The Venetian Tower Room 30-133 - Anthem, a leading manufacturer of high-end electronics for music, home theater and distributed audio systems, announces the availability of the Audio/Video Master 50v (AVM 50v), a state-of-the-art music preamplifier/home theater processor with a built in tuner and independent source selection for recording. This updated version of the AVM 50 combines unprecedented A/V performance-enhancing technologies with whole-home entertainment control that makes it possible for users to direct audio and video program materials throughout their homes.
> 
> 
> Anthem engineers are among the most meticulous in the industry, and the company's commitment to value is confirmed by every new aspect of the AVM 50v. It features the latest Sigma Designs* VXP® broadcast-quality digital video processing to ensure deep color while offering improved noise reduction through block artifact and mosquito noise reduction. Two new dual-core audio Digital Signal Processing (DSP) engines, designed in-house by Anthem, offer a total of 800 million instructions per second (MIPS) of processing power to allow decoding of the new Dolby, DTS and other HD audio standards. Additionally, a free software download for support of Dolby Volume will soon be available via Anthem's website ( www.anthemav.com ).
> 
> 
> In seeking to accommodate the most advanced input formats available, Anthem has upgraded its pulse-code modulation (PCM) input to support 7.1 channels at 24 bits or 192 kHz. Additional HDMI inputs (v.1.3c) have been added, bringing that total to eight, along with two parallel HDMI outputs, enabling the AVM 50v to be the true high-performance hub of any A/V set-up.
> 
> 
> Anthem's heralded Room Correction System (ARC-1TM) comes standard with the AVM 50v. While equalizing frequency response in a room to achieve some generic (i.e. "flat") response is a common approach to solving problems with room acoustics, it will result in an unnatural spectral balance, since it does not take into account the human hearing system. ARC-1 is a true audiophile solution: it differs from other systems in that it uses proprietary processing to compute each speaker's in-room frequency response, and then computes a target frequency response for each to yield the optimal sound.
> 
> 
> Estimated FMV for the Anthem AVM 50v is TBD. For more information, please visit www.anthemav.com .
> 
> 
> *Key features of VXPTM technology include: • Superior image quality using per-pixel processing. • Very robust film mode detection. • TruMotionHDTM Adaptive De-Interlacing to ensure optimal image sharpness and picture resolution when converting 480i, 576i and 1080i inputs to progressive scan. • FineEdgeTM Dynamic Directional Interpolation to eliminate jaggy artifacts (i.e. temporal distortion) found in traditional de-interlacing algorithms. • FidelityEngineTM Image Enhancements to remove unwanted noise and improve detail. • RealityExpansionTM True 10-Bit Image Processing for eye-catching natural imagery.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Caster Communications, Inc 155 Main Street Wakefield, RI 02879 T 401.792.7080 F 401.792.7040 [email protected]



Note that price and shipping date are not announced yet.


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*AVM 50v Photos!*


That PR site also includes AVM 50v pictures! Note that the back panel shot still shows "AVM 50 v.2", whereas the front panel shot shows "AVM 50v". These photos are huge -- way too slow loading to include in-line in this post, and I can't even upload them to AVS as links due to the size. So go to this page to see all 4 photos: Lifestyle, Internals, Back Panel, Front.

http://www.castercomm.com/gallery.cfm?cid=111 


--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

presumably they will maintain the same price differential as now which is, what, $2k?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

One thing that puzzles me is that the block of text on VXP at the bottom of the release lists "RealityExpansionTM True 10-Bit Image Processing for eye-catching natural imagery".


The new VXP chip Anthem is using in the AVM 50v and the Statement D2v is a full 12 bits per component (36 bits per pixel) processing engine with two independent video processing data paths.


I suspect this block of text may have been copy/pasted from what they had for the older VXP chip in the current AVM-50 and Statement D2.


I just looked at the product literature for the Sigma Designs VXP chip on the Sigma Designs site and couldn't find any reason to believe any part of its processing would be limited to only 10 bits per component.


I also can't find the trademark "realityexpansion" used anywhere in Google to refer to the newer VXP chips. It appears to be a trademark Gennum used with the old VXP chip (the one in the current Anthem products) prior to Sigma Designs buying that product line from them.


ETA: I've got an email off to Nick seeking clarification on this.


ETA 2: I got a quick reply from Nick confirming that this is, indeed, outdated info. The new VXP processing in the AVM 50v and Statement D2v is 12 bit through and through. I wonder what it will take for them to fix that now that the press releases are already in the wild?

--Bob


----------



## matted

Wow, those photos ARE big! I think I'm sold... I don't think I could ever justify the price of a D2v (As much as I WANT to) but the AVM-50v looks sweet. I can't think of anything else I would want in a processor for at least a few years. Time to start saving.


Also a quick question... I noticed that one of the improvements in the new VXP chip is that it is capable of "Dual-channel" scaling (i think I saw this in the press release for the D2v), does this mean it could down-res the inputs for a second output? For example take whatever your input video is, scale it to the native res of your main display, and also output to a second monitor at a different resolution?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15508724
> 
> *AVM 50v Photos!*
> 
> 
> That PR site also includes AVM 50v pictures! Note that the back panel shot still shows "AVM 50 v.2", whereas the front panel shot shows "AVM 50v". These photos are huge -- way too slow loading to include in-line in this post, and I can't even upload them to AVS as links due to the size. So go to this page to see all 4 photos: Lifestyle, Internals, Back Panel, Front.
> 
> http://www.castercomm.com/gallery.cfm?cid=111
> 
> 
> --Bob



I resized a couple of them.
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/9...nternalij0.jpg 
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/9...0v2backzz6.jpg


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matted* /forum/post/15509009
> 
> 
> Wow, those photos ARE big! I think I'm sold... I don't think I could ever justify the price of a D2v (As much as I WANT to) but the AVM-50v looks sweet. I can't think of anything else I would want in a processor for at least a few years. Time to start saving.
> 
> 
> Also a quick question... I noticed that one of the improvements in the new VXP chip is that it is capable of "Dual-channel" scaling (i think I saw this in the press release for the D2v), does this mean it could down-res the inputs for a second output? For example take whatever your input video is, scale it to the native res of your main display, and also output to a second monitor at a different resolution?



The processing chip is certainly able to do that (two completely independent video processing paths), but the word we have is that the firmware at launch will NOT allow that -- both HDMI outputs will be live simultaneously but they will carry identical video.


One thing I'm not clear on, even after an exchange of emails with Nick, is whether the architecture allows a FUTURE firmware release to add separate video output configurations for the two HDMI outputs. There are some complexities in the user interface of course (in particular the stuff that's currently included in the Video Source Adjust menus assumes only one active Video Output configuration at a time), but my real worry is that the HDMI circuitry will get in the way.


Here's the problem: If you have one HDMI source going to two outputs with DIFFERENT Video Output configurations then you need to satisfy the source that two different HDCP (copy protection) setups are both valid. The HDMI spec includes provision for fanning out one source to multiple outputs, but the presumption is that each output is carrying the same video configuration.


HDCP over HDMI is driven, end to end, by the source device. So having two different Video Output configurations active at the same time from the Anthem could be problematic both in the Anthem and with some source devices. I just don't know if there is any engineering workaround for this.


[The dual video processing in the chip was intended for applications such as Blu-Ray players that have a main (movie) and secondary (picture-in-picture commentary) video stream that have to be separately processed and then mixed together into one combined output. It is also useful inside of TVs that implement picture-in-picture or picture-and-picture display of two channels at once. But in both cases the two streams are combined into just one video format prior to output/display.]

--Bob


----------



## matted

Cool, thanks Bob! Informative as always.


I can definitely see HDMI getting in the way which is too bad. ..


Do the copy protection rules allow for, say, a lower res 720p or 480p signal to be unprotected? Could we see Anthem changing firmware to allow an unprotected output down-converted from the HDMI input? I thought Studios cared less about protecting the smaller resolutions, and mainly didn't want people to have access to unprotected 1080p; of course, that may have no bearing on what is and isn't allowed for with HDCP


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Something else I hadn't noticed before is that the front panel includes LED indicator lights for DTS, Dolby Digital, and Dolby TrueHD.


But not for DTS-HD MA.


Now the DTS-HD MA logo is silk screened onto the front panel, and I'm sure the Front Panel Display and On-Screen Display will show when you are feeding a DTS-HD MA bitstream to the unit. But for folks who think LED indicator lights are the reason for buying a product like this, well, they'll just have to do without one light...











ETA: I see they've got the "Dolby Volume" logo silk screened on there as well even though the press release makes it clear this is only coming in a future (free) firmware update.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matted* /forum/post/15509393
> 
> 
> Cool, thanks Bob! Informative as always.
> 
> 
> I can definitely see HDMI getting in the way which is too bad. ..
> 
> 
> Do the copy protection rules allow for, say, a lower res 720p or 480p signal to be unprotected? Could we see Anthem changing firmware to allow an unprotected component video output down-converted from the HDMI input?



I really don't know what the rules allow. I have a strong suspicion that HDMI ORG doesn't even know what the rules allow. [This is not quite as cynical as it sounds -- HDCP is actually defined by a separate industry group and is stuck onto HDMI itself (picture HDMI stepping into something icky on the sidewalk).]


It is obvious that some companies are taking a conservative approach to designs to avoid having a product release delayed by HDMI ORG having a hissy fit. And some other companies are probably pushing the limits thinking that HDMI ORG is too toothless to stop them.


So it may very well end up that "what works in the marketplace" turns out to be the de facto law.


I'm more worried about whether this means existing HDMI source devices will get fouled up.


Remember when the first HDMI AVRs came out how many HDMI cable and satellite receiver boxes simply refused to work through them -- because the HDMI in the cable and satellite boxes hadn't implemented "repeater processing" (another piece of the HDMI protocol, also tangled up with HDCP). I.e., the instant the cable/satellite box discovered it was not directly connected to a TV it just gave up. It took well over a year for that problem to resolve itself (new firmware for those set top boxes).


I suspect something similar may happen if any AVRs do try to implement multiple outputs with separate configurations. Except there are a lot more HDMI source devices out there now, and Blu-Ray (and HD-DVD) really need HDMI connections.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Hot off the press! New, CES, Statement D2v and AVM 50v Data Sheets!*


I got a quick email from Nick confirming that the VXP features list in the press release is, indeed, the wrong (outdated) one. [Ooops!] The VXP processing in the Statement D2v and AVM 50v is 12 bit through and through. I've edited my previous post.


In addition, Nick sent along the shiny new data sheets for the D2v and AVM 50v! Unfortunately, they are both just over the 500KB limit AVS imposes on PDF files to be uploaded into post links. I'm trying to find out now whether they are on an Anthem web site somewhere that I can just link to.


In the meantime, I'm looking through them for goodies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The data sheets include a statement specifically targeted at the "jitterbugs" out there who have bought into the FUD regarding "jitter" artifacts over HDMI:



> Quote:
> Sound from HDMI sources plays perfectly, at least it does if you're using a D2v ...
> 
> 
> Why? In the D2v, all eight HDMI inputs are connected through high-performance TMDS (Transition Minimized Differential Signaling) timing regenerators and multiplexers. The receiver contains a programmable equalizer and Clock Data Recovery (CDR) function for each of the three TMDS pairs in an HDMI or DVI signal. The TMDS data outputs are regenerated and perfectly aligned to the regenerated TMDS clock signal, creating an extremely clean low-jitter DVI/HDMI signal that is easily decoded by the HDMI receiver. This is particularly useful for cleaning up a noisy/jittery source, or when a long or low-quality cable is being used.



ETA: It looks like the full set of Blu-Ray / DVD audio input formats are included. I didn't spot any missing items (e.g., DTS-HD HR). There are also no unexpected additions. I.e., there's no HDMI DSD input available for SACD enthusiasts (they have to convert to HDMI LPCM in the player as is the case with the current Anthems).


ETA 2: There are new beauty shot photos of the D2v in its data sheet. As with the AVM 50v, a "Dolby Volume" logo has been added to the front panel. The two HDMI outputs are described as "parallel" -- the same word they use to describe the two Center speaker and the two Subwoofer outputs. This implies to me that, as expected, both HDMI outputs will be live at the same time, but they will both carry the identical video output configuration. That means you will need to use the remote to switch amongst the four assignable Video Output configurations when you want to change output from either HDMI -- and that will result in the same output on both HDMIs.


ETA 3: I haven't spotted any surprises in the data sheets, although the AVM 50v data sheet is a little coy as to just what it will and will not do for sampling rate on input. The D2v version has a rather detailed discussion of this, including more info on the even higher upsampling the DACs do as part of prepping the digital audio for analog output. Nick had previously told me that the AVM 50v, like the D2v, will accept up to 192KHz 7.1 HDMI LPCM.


ETA 4: OK I spotted a statement on the front page of the AVM 50v data sheet that confirms it will indeed, as expected, accept up to 192KHz 7.1 HDMI LPCM.


ETA 5: Oh, and just to clarify, the AVM 50v data sheet also includes the same anti-jitter stuff I quoted above from the D2v data sheet.


--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15509855
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, they are both just over the 500KB limit AVS imposes on PDF files to be uploaded into post links.



Would they squeak under the limit if they were Zipped?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15510113
> 
> 
> Would they squeak under the limit if they were Zipped?



Unfortunately no. They zip to 676KB (from 688) and 696KB (from 708) respectively. For some reason the AVM 50v one is the larger. And they are "protected" PDF files, which means I can't edit them or even copy/paste from them. I have a PhotoBucket account for distributing images, but it won't let me put PDF or ZIP files up there.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15510270
> 
> 
> Unfortunately no. They zip to 676KB (from 688) and 696KB (from 708) respectively. For some reason the AVM 50v one is the larger. And they are "protected" PDF files, which means I can't edit them or even copy/paste from them. I have a PhotoBucket account for distributing images, but it won't let me put PDF or ZIP files up there.
> 
> --Bob



I have magic software [GRIN]!


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15510270
> 
> 
> Unfortunately no. They zip to 676KB (from 688) and 696KB (from 708) respectively. For some reason the AVM 50v one is the larger. And they are "protected" PDF files, which means I can't edit them or even copy/paste from them. I have a PhotoBucket account for distributing images, but it won't let me put PDF or ZIP files up there.
> 
> --Bob



Screen capture, copy paste, save?


Now you have us all waiting with baited breath!!!


----------



## ~Ohdee~

This question will likely come across as sounding somewhat mentally challenged but, will an upgraded D2 be THE EXACT same as a factory purchased D2v?


Also, who out there (current D2 owners) will for sure being doing the upgrade once it's available?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15510470
> 
> 
> Screen capture, copy paste, save?



We agree that works but the resolution goes to pot.

It would not be readable on a web browser


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2V Data Sheet From Screen Captures! (1 of 2 posts)*


Well I don't know how legible these will be, but here are the first 5 pages of the D2v data sheet. Pages 6 and 7 will follow in the next post.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2v Data Sheet From Screen Captures! (2 of 2 posts)*


And here are pages 6 and 7.

--Bob


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15500514
> 
> 
> Just did measurement with 1.2.14 and the cutoffs are now better. The graphs show improvement and no negative changes. With music it sounded very detailed with smooth bass. Will test with movies tonight. So far so good. Prior measurements with calculations in 1.2.14, also showed smoother high end.
> 
> John



I was hoping that 1.2.14 would fix a problem I encountered with 1.2.13, but no: Both of these beta software releases killed my low bass relative to what I was running before with the original ARC 1.2 software. (The highs with ARC 1.2.13 and 1.2.14 with a 20 Khz upper limit sound wonderful).


I have two 12-inch Triad in-wall subs located in side walls of the room, a Velodyne DD-18 sub in the room front corner, and six Buttkickers located underneath 2 rows of 3 chairs. I still hear (and feel in the chairs) some low bass, but it's as if it's been rolled off more than 10 dB. My family complains that the they miss the kick of the Buttkickers on movie explosions, etc.


With 1.2.13 I took new measurements with the calibrated mic, but the measurements and targets look virtually identical to those I had previously generated (from all six seats) with the old 1.2. The sub curves show that I should be getting maximum output all the way down to 20 hz.


I'm going to try the "approved" non-beta 1.2.5 and see if it makes any difference in the bass. Hopefully the highs will still sound as nice.


- Dave


----------



## drhankz

*AVM50v Data Sheet*

*D2V Data Sheet*


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*AVM 50v Data Sheet From Screen Captures! (1 of 2 posts)*


Here are the first 5 pages of the AVM 50v data sheet. I tried a higher "quality" setting but it made the pictures too large for AVS upload, so this is what you get until we can figure out how to get the real PDF on-line someplace.


Pages 6 and 7 will follow in the next post.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*AVM 50v Data Sheets From Screen Capture! (2 of 2 posts)*


And here are pages 6 and 7.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15510935
> 
> *AVM50v Data Sheet*
> 
> *D2V Data Sheet*



That's the ticket! Thanks Dr. H!


And thanks to the site you used to host these, too!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/15510910
> 
> 
> I was hoping that 1.2.14 would fix a problem I encountered with 1.2.13, but no: Both of these beta software releases killed my low bass relative to what I was running before with the original ARC 1.2 software. (The highs with ARC 1.2.13 and 1.2.14 with a 20 Khz upper limit sound wonderful).
> 
> 
> I have two 12-inch Triad in-wall subs located in side walls of the room, a Velodyne DD-18 sub in the room front corner, and six Buttkickers located underneath 2 rows of 3 chairs. I still hear (and feel in the chairs) some low bass, but it's as if it's been rolled off more than 10 dB. My family complains that the they miss the kick of the Buttkickers on movie explosions, etc.
> 
> 
> With 1.2.13 I took new measurements with the calibrated mic, but the measurements and targets look virtually identical to those I had previously generated (from all six seats) with the old 1.2. The sub curves show that I should be getting maximum output all the way down to 20 hz.
> 
> 
> I'm going to try the "approved" non-beta 1.2.5 and see if it makes any difference in the bass. Hopefully the highs will still sound as nice.
> 
> 
> - Dave



If you haven't done so already, please email your saved ARC files (not just screen shots of the charts) to Nick at Anthem so he can get them to the engineers to figure out what is going on. They can extract far more info from those files than what the charts show. Make sure Nick knows whether the Measurements in those files were done with 1.2.5, 1.2.13, or 1.2.14. Thanks!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15510631
> 
> 
> This question will likely come across as sounding somewhat mentally challenged but, will an upgraded D2 be THE EXACT same as a factory purchased D2v?
> 
> 
> Also, who out there (current D2 owners) will for sure being doing the upgrade once it's available?



As best we know, and I think this is likely to be accurate, an upgraded D2 will differ from a new D2v in two, and only two, regards:


1) The front panel is not replaced as part of the upgrade, so you don't get the silk screened logos for the new features such as Dolby Volume, TrueHD, and DTS-HD MA. I'm not sure what they are planning to do as regards the LED indicators on the front panel. The D2v has the same number as the D2, but the PLIIx indicator is no longer shown, others are dropped down one spot, and the top indicator becomes the LED for Dolby TrueHD.


2) Parts that are *NOT* replaced as part of the upgrade are covered only by the remaining part of your original D2 warranty. Parts that ARE replaced get a new warranty, from the upgrade date, of the same length as the warranty for the same type of part in the original unit -- i.e., 3 years for audio components and 2 years for video components.


Now current production (i.e., new) D2 units have had various rolling hardware changes since the unit first shipped. For example, the power supply has been changed at least once. So any older parts which are not replaced as part of the upgrade will continue to be older parts compared to what ships in a new D2v. In your case, your D2 is new enough that none of that would apply to you. For folks with the oldest D2 units, I suspect Anthem will make some accommodation if you want to refresh any of the other parts while the unit is in the shop. These changes relate to changes in availability of the various components Anthem used in manufacture as opposed to feature or performance changes, so there is no pressing need to do this.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15510631
> 
> 
> This question will likely come across as sounding somewhat mentally challenged but, will an upgraded D2 be THE EXACT same as a factory purchased D2v?
> 
> 
> Also, who out there (current D2 owners) will for sure being doing the upgrade once it's available?



There might be a wire that is a few cm longer in one or the other. Not sure what your definition of exact is







I expect them to be *functionally* identical.


I will absolutely do the upgrade, as I see it as extending my 2.5 year old purchase further into the future. However, I won't be first in line. I also will need to carefully plan for a time when I can be without my D2 for many weeks!







(Even more reason to wait until the rush is over and turnaround times go down.)


----------



## schlitzie

I'll probably upgrade - but am not sure if it is better to buy new and sell the old or upgrade my current unit.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More news from Nick re AVM 50v:



> Quote:
> Also for the AVM 50, it now does DTS 96/24 (with no crippling of any feature as other systems do) since it uses a DSP nearly identical to the D2's (clock speed is different) - not to be confused with DAC stage which remains completely different (key difference - 24/192 upsampling).



Also I think we may get a sneak peak at the draft user manual soon.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Do any of the new PRs mention upgrades? Anyone heard any recent upgrade pricing?


I'm trying to talk myself out of the upgrade as it is missing a few things I'd like to see, such as more channels (independent subwoofers), DSD, ethernet, USB, Slushy Machine, ect. I guess the real question is does anyone think we will see a new D3 platform next fall at CEDIA and for sale at next year's CES.










Who am I kidding?







There is no way I can wait for the new platform. How much is the upgrade again?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nothing in the CES press stuff on upgrades.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15500514
> 
> 
> Just did measurement with 1.2.14 and the cutoffs are now better. The graphs show improvement and no negative changes. With music it sounded very detailed with smooth bass. Will test with movies tonight. So far so good. Prior measurements with calculations in 1.2.14, also showed smoother high end.
> 
> John



I have not re-Measured with "test" ARC V1.2.14. Instead I used it to open up the better of my two sets of V1.2.13 Measurements, did an Auto Detect in the Targets window, and did a Calculation at 20KHz.


As best I can tell this resulted in identical Target and Chart results to what I got using V1.2.13 for everything. My uploaded crossovers and speaker levels appear to match as well.


I've Uploaded and I'm listening now, and it sounds very good indeed. But then so did my final result with V1.2.13.


I'll probably wait for the next "official" release before I re-Measure again.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

this gets more and more difficult....im reading and re-reading these specs to convince myself of the $2k difference between the two. im not sure which argument is winning.........


----------



## ensmarcum

I have a question...This may have been answered already. I want to use 2 seven channel amps to power my speakers, they are all biampable. How would it be best to set that up? I know there is a db difference in the balanced vs the unbalanced outputs on the d2, so which one should go to the tweeter and which one should go to the bass inputs? I am thinking about getting the emotiva upa7 to go with my pva 7. What do you think?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Hmmm, I'm not sure that's going to work for you. How do you plan to deal with the 6dB difference between what will be sent to the woofers and to the tweeters? This is not really something I've looked into.


In any event, you might want to send an email to Anthem tech support and see what they suggest. They've undoubtedly got some customers who are using multi-amp strategies.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/15513864
> 
> 
> I am thinking about getting the emotiva upa7 to go with my pva 7. What do you think?



Both of these amps are single-ended inputs only. No? Maybe I looked up the wrong specs.


So how would you connect the D2's balanced outputs to these amps? Electrically, a simple Y adapter would work, except that the Anthem has standard 29dB gain, while the Emotiva has nonstandard 32dB gain, so you have a 3dB offset to deal with. ARC would no doubt see this and adjust it out, but probably better to use amps with matched gain.


----------



## bluemark81

For those of you with 7.1 setups, what are you using for surround modes? What do you find gives the best results for movies? Currently, I have both DD and DTS, EX and ES set for THX Ultra2 Cinema. I want to select one of the settings that will utilize all 7 speakers, but I'm not sure if THX Ultra2 Cinema will give the best results. I haven't really tried sitting down and trying them all, so I was curious if others have and what their opinions are.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I have a 5.1 setup so I can't give you 7.1 advice based on experience, but keep in mind that you might want to just use PLIIx (Movie or Music) without also turning on the THX post processing.


Since adding ARC I've switched to never using THX (except for the separate "re-equalization" function needed for some movies).

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15509400
> 
> 
> Something else I hadn't noticed before is that the front panel includes LED indicator lights for DTS, Dolby Digital, and Dolby TrueHD.
> 
> 
> But not for DTS-HD MA.
> 
> 
> Now the DTS-HD MA logo is silk screened onto the front panel, and I'm sure the Front Panel Display and On-Screen Display will show when you are feeding a DTS-HD MA bitstream to the unit. But for folks who think LED indicator lights are the reason for buying a product like this, well, they'll just have to do without one light...
> 
> 
> --Bob



The LEDs are OK but would it be even nicer if when you press the volume buttons or the select button to scroll through the settings it visually displayed on the screen exactly what HD audio mode you are in.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/15514671
> 
> 
> The LEDs are OK but would it be even nicer if when you press the volume buttons or the select button to scroll through the settings it visually displayed on the screen exactly what HD audio mode you are in.



...and let you know if ARC is on or off, and if you are in 'movie' or 'music' speaker configuration.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15511292
> 
> 
> As best we know, and I think this is likely to be accurate, an upgraded D2 will differ from a new D2v in two, and only two, regards:
> 
> 
> 1) The front panel is not replaced as part of the upgrade, so you don't get the silk screened logos for the new features such as Dolby Volume, TrueHD, and DTS-HD MA. I'm not sure what they are planning to do as regards the LED indicators on the front panel. The D2v has the same number as the D2, but the PLIIx indicator is no longer shown, others are dropped down one spot, and the top indicator becomes the LED for Dolby TrueHD.
> 
> 
> 2) Parts that are *NOT* replaced as part of the upgrade are covered only by the remaining part of your original D2 warranty. Parts that ARE replaced get a new warranty, from the upgrade date, of the same length as the warranty for the same type of part in the original unit -- i.e., 3 years for audio components and 2 years for video components.
> 
> 
> Now current production (i.e., new) D2 units have had various rolling hardware changes since the unit first shipped. For example, the power supply has been changed at least once. So any older parts which are not replaced as part of the upgrade will continue to be older parts compared to what ships in a new D2v. In your case, your D2 is new enough that none of that would apply to you. For folks with the oldest D2 units, I suspect Anthem will make some accommodation if you want to refresh any of the other parts while the unit is in the shop. These changes relate to changes in availability of the various components Anthem used in manufacture as opposed to feature or performance changes, so there is no pressing need to do this.
> 
> --Bob



Now we need to get the beast


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15511292
> 
> 
> As best we know, and I think this is likely to be accurate, an upgraded D2 will differ from a new D2v in two, and only two, regards:
> 
> 
> 1) The front panel is not replaced as part of the upgrade, so you don't get the silk screened logos for the new features such as Dolby Volume, TrueHD, and DTS-HD MA. I'm not sure what they are planning to do as regards the LED indicators on the front panel. The D2v has the same number as the D2, but the PLIIx indicator is no longer shown, others are dropped down one spot, and the top indicator becomes the LED for Dolby TrueHD.
> 
> 
> 2) Parts that are *NOT* replaced as part of the upgrade are covered only by the remaining part of your original D2 warranty. Parts that ARE replaced get a new warranty, from the upgrade date, of the same length as the warranty for the same type of part in the original unit -- i.e., 3 years for audio components and 2 years for video components.
> 
> 
> Now current production (i.e., new) D2 units have had various rolling hardware changes since the unit first shipped. For example, the power supply has been changed at least once. So any older parts which are not replaced as part of the upgrade will continue to be older parts compared to what ships in a new D2v. In your case, your D2 is new enough that none of that would apply to you. For folks with the oldest D2 units, I suspect Anthem will make some accommodation if you want to refresh any of the other parts while the unit is in the shop. These changes relate to changes in availability of the various components Anthem used in manufacture as opposed to feature or performance changes, so there is no pressing need to do this.
> 
> --Bob




One thing I would add is that Anthem process upgrade the same way they process a new unit. Upgrade go through the same assembly/testing production line then a new unit. This is higly professional.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15514307
> 
> 
> I have a 5.1 setup so I can't give you 7.1 advice based on experience, but keep in mind that you might want to just use PLIIx (Movie or Music) without also turning on the THX post processing.
> 
> 
> Since adding ARC I've switched to never using THX (except for the separate "re-equalization" function needed for some movies).
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Thanks, will give it a try, but what are your reasons in suggesting that?


----------



## izzihd

Anyone know? Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15517038
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks, will give it a try, but what are your reasons in suggesting that?



It's all just personal preference. There's no patently "right" answer to this. In my 5.1 system I find that the surround sound field is so close to perfection already with ARC that I don't like the additional fiddling that THX adds. Prior to ARC I did use THX for movies (but not for music or normal TV programs).


THX re-equalization for movies (and only movies) is a special case -- separately controllable whether or not the rest of the THX stuff is turned on. It removes the modest treble bias built into movie sound tracks for theaters (countering the dulling effect of all those people in the movie house). But some movies on disc and on TV already have been re-equalized for home theater use, so you don't need it all the time. You should decide on a movie by movie basis. Personally, I always default to re-equalization OFF and then turn it on if the movie is sounding a bit too "bright" to me. [Whether or not THX is turned ON, you can separately toggle re-equalization by pressing the THX button twice and then using the Up or Down arrow keys.]


NOTE: The modern treble bias in movie sound tracks is much more subtle than the "Academy Equalization" that was applied to old movies -- primarily back in the black and white era. Academy Equalization added much more treble bias to counter the dulling effects of having the speakers behind the rather thick movie screens used back then. With THX turned off, you can use Mono Academy mode when playing old movies to remove the Academy Equalization. Try it! You'll be surprised how much more natural old movies will sound. But again, some old movies on disc or TV have ALREADY had the Academy Equalization removed. If you use Mono Academy with them they will sound dull -- the effect is pretty obvious. So again you need to decide on a movie by movie basis. By playing with Mono Academy vs. normal, unaltered Mono for old movies you can train your ear to hear the more subtle variation of THX re-equalization on/off for modern movies.


NOTE 2: I had an exchange with poster FILM MIXER a while back on this, and his recommendation was to assume Blu-Ray movies did not need re-equalization. In my experience that seems to be sound (ahem) advice.


Now for 7.1 you need to generate the rear speakers from your 5.1 input. You can use PLIIx for that, or you can add one of the THX modes (which work on top of PLIIx). You can also use the DD EX or DTS NEO modes but they are for 6.1 output. Nevertheless you might like how they sound even though both rear speakers are being sent the same content. And again, you can separately decide whether or not to layer THX on top of them as well.


See Sections 4.8.8 and 4.8.9 in the Manual for how the THX post processing builds on top of the "basic" surround modes which raise 5.1 input to 6.1 or 7.1 output (and also the similar chart for how surround modes work with 2.0 content), and see Section 4.8.6 for a description of what THX post processing does beyond the "basic" processing of the surround mode itself. You'll note that the THX post processing (other than re-equalization) is built around various tricks for enhancing the surround sound field. Again, if you are an ARC user I recommend you experiment with NOT using THX rather than just assuming that adding THX must always be better.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *izzihd* /forum/post/15517641
> 
> 
> Anyone know? Thanks



Yes a D1 can be upgraded to a D2v, or so we've been led to believe (there's been no official, public announcement yet). You will need to pay extra for the combo upgrade of course, but I suspect it will be less than if you separately did the upgrade to a D2 and then again to a D2v.


Pricing and availability of D1 upgrades have not yet been announced. My guesses would be March and roughly $3000.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I agree that the differences b/t 1.2.14 and 1.2.13 are subtle. My measurement from 1.2.14 corrected a few problems with 1.2.13, ie. the room gain for music and the very high cutoff for my fronts. The resultant graphs showed a smoother line at the top frequencies and LFE had same punch as 1.2.13. Opening many other measurments in 1.2.14 showed this latest version handles high freq noticeably better and almost identical low freq correction. Maybe they're getting closer










A couple of questions regarding the AVM 50V upgrade.


1. I don't quite understand the 24/192 in the AVM50V. How does this differ from what is in the D2?

2. I have lipsync problems, some from bad filmmixing and some from, I suspect HDMI issues. Does the upgrade help with this?

3. Are power supplies changed.

John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15517785
> 
> 
> It's all just personal preference. There's no patently "right" answer to this. In my 5.1 system I find that the surround sound field is so close to perfection already with ARC that I don't like the additional fiddling that THX adds. Prior to ARC I did use THX for movies (but not for music or normal TV programs).
> 
> 
> THX re-equalization for movies (and only movies) is a special case -- separately controllable whether or not the rest of the THX stuff is turned on. It removes the modest treble bias built into movie sound tracks for theaters (countering the dulling effect of all those people in the movie house). But some movies on disc and on TV already have been re-equalized for home theater use, so you don't need it all the time. You should decide on a movie by movie basis. Personally, I always default to re-equalization OFF and then turn it on if the movie is sounding a bit too "bright" to me. [Whether or not THX is turned ON, you can separately toggle re-equalization by pressing the THX button twice and then using the Up or Down arrow keys.]
> 
> 
> NOTE: The modern treble bias in movie sound tracks is much more subtle than the "Academy Equalization" that was applied to old movies -- primarily back in the black and white era. Academy Equalization added much more treble bias to counter the dulling effects of having the speakers behind the rather thick movie screens used back then. With THX turned off, you can use Mono Academy mode when playing old movies to remove the Academy Equalization. Try it! You'll be surprised how much more natural old movies will sound. But again, some old movies on disc or TV have ALREADY had the Academy Equalization removed. If you use Mono Academy with them they will sound dull -- the effect is pretty obvious. So again you need to decide on a movie by movie basis. By playing with Mono Academy vs. normal, unaltered Mono for old movies you can train your ear to hear the more subtle variation of THX re-equalization on/off for modern movies.
> 
> 
> NOTE 2: I had an exchange with poster FILM MIXER a while back on this, and his recommendation was to assume Blu-Ray movies did not need re-equalization. In my experience that seems to be sound (ahem) advice.
> 
> 
> Now for 7.1 you need to generate the rear speakers from your 5.1 input. You can use PLIIx for that, or you can add one of the THX modes (which work on top of PLIIx). You can also use the DD EX or DTS NEO modes but they are for 6.1 output. Nevertheless you might like how they sound even though both rear speakers are being sent the same content. And again, you can separately decide whether or not to layer THX on top of them as well.
> 
> 
> See Sections 4.8.8 and 4.8.9 in the Manual for how the THX post processing builds on top of the "basic" surround modes which raise 5.1 input to 6.1 or 7.1 output (and also the similar chart for how surround modes work with 2.0 content), and see Section 4.8.6 for a description of what THX post processing does beyond the "basic" processing of the surround mode itself. You'll note that the THX post processing (other than re-equalization) is built around various tricks for enhancing the surround sound field. Again, if you are an ARC user I recommend you experiment with NOT using THX rather than just assuming that adding THX must always be better.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Thanks. Very descriptive information as usual. I do have ARC. If I turn re-eq off, does the Anthem remember this setting, or does it have to be turned off each time?


I've tried turning the re-eq off and there is a definite improvement. It seems to lift a veil from the speakers.


----------



## gostan

Nice to see the spec sheet for the new D2v. Thanks Bob & Hank!


I am wondering if the TMDS (Transition Minimized Differential Signalling) is something brand new, or is it simply something that has either been in existence in the present D2 and is now being promoted by Anthem as jitter over HDMI has become more of a concern for many.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15518995
> 
> 
> Nice to see the spec sheet for the new D2v. Thanks Bob & Hank!
> 
> 
> I am wondering if the TMDS (Transition Minimized Differential Signalling) is something brand new, or is it simply something that has either been in existence in the present D2 and is now being promoted by Anthem as jitter over HDMI has become more of a concern for many.



TMDS is just the low level digital transmission format over any HDMI cable connection. Nothing new there. Anthem is just making clear that they do the right thing with it, which is to buffer and re-clock it to make jitter essentially a non-issue. Again this is nothing new. They are just answering some of the FUD out there regarding jitter. The D2 and AVM-50 have never had jitter problems worth worrying about.


The HDMI V1.3c chips they are using include the optional signal re-equalization function which is part of the low-level HDMI V1.3 hardware spec. This helps keep the connection robust in the face of long or marginal cables. That's new. However I'm not clear whether you get the benefit of that unless both ends of the cable are HDMI V1.3 with this re-equalization circuit.


This is similar to the fact that HDMI connections in general are more robust over longer distances than DVI connections. HDMI V1.3's optional additional re-equalization just takes that further.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15518469
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks. Very descriptive information as usual. I do have ARC. If I turn re-eq off, does the Anthem remember this setting, or does it have to be turned off each time?
> 
> 
> I've tried turning the re-eq off and there is a definite improvement. It seems to lift a veil from the speakers.



It looks to me like it remembers the THX re-equalization on/off setting separately for the two cases (i.e., the rest of THX also on, or the rest of THX off), and I believe it remembers it separately for each input source but I'm not sure of that. I don't think it remembers it separately for each type of audio input format from a given source (e.g., 2.0 vs. 5.1).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15518367
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I agree that the differences b/t 1.2.14 and 1.2.13 are subtle. My measurement from 1.2.14 corrected a few problems with 1.2.13, ie. the room gain for music and the very high cutoff for my fronts. The resultant graphs showed a smoother line at the top frequencies and LFE had same punch as 1.2.13. Opening many other measurments in 1.2.14 showed this latest version handles high freq noticeably better and almost identical low freq correction. Maybe they're getting closer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of questions regarding the AVM 50V upgrade.
> 
> 
> 1. I don't quite understand the 24/192 in the AVM50V. How does this differ from what is in the D2?
> 
> 2. I have lipsync problems, some from bad filmmixing and some from, I suspect HDMI issues. Does the upgrade help with this?
> 
> 3. Are power supplies changed.
> 
> John



3) Power supplies are the same as far as I know.


2) Nothing has changed regarding lip sync. If the content you are playing is screwed up or if the source is generating lip sync errors, you can try to correct it using the manual adjustment in the AVM50v. But often such errors vary as the movie advances, and there's no good way to deal with that. As far as I know Anthem has NOT tried to add the "automatic" lip sync correction optional feature of HDMI V1.3. But that feature has nothing to do with correcting for bad content or source device problems anyway. It simply provides a way for a downstream device (i.e., your display) to tell the Anthem how much additional delay it wants added in to correct for video processing delays in that device. That sort of adjustment is EASY to do manually -- you only have to do it once. But the problem you are facing -- faulty content or buggy source device processing -- can not be handled automatically and is a nuisance to handle even manually.


1) As I understand it, the current AVM 50 doesn't support DTS 2.0 96KHz/24bit input (a data format used on some audiophile music recordings). The D2 does. The AVM 50v adds that. The 192KHz upsampling is something only the D2 and D2v do. They convert any input audio format to that sampling rate before doing any processing.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

the pcm 7.1 input at 24/192, is this an improvement over how the AVM 50 now does it, not in terms of the # of channels but the bitrate and frequency. Does this mean it will accept the 24/192 or will it upsample to this through PCM form my ps3 or hd dvd?

John


----------



## bluemark81

How can I check to see what version of ARC I have?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15519933
> 
> 
> How can I check to see what version of ARC I have?



Open ARC in Advanced mode and choose "About Anthem Room Correction" from the Help menu. The current "official" ARC version is V1.2.5 -- which should be paired with firmware version V1.33 on the Anthem itself.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15520013
> 
> 
> Open ARC in Advanced mode and choose "About Anthem Room Correction" from the Help menu. The current "official" ARC version is V1.2.5 -- which should be paired with firmware version V1.33 on the Anthem itself.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I meant, is there a way to tell from the Anthem? Thanks


----------



## cecaa850

Anthem tech suppory is closed for the weekend:

I just finished my first firmware update.....ever.... in an attempt to run ARC software. The firmware seemed to load without a hitch (1.3). The first (and each subsequent time) time I tried to run ARC I get an error message, "ERROR, No calibration files found in application directory that match (code + 0x02)" . When exiting I get a "Measurement procedure failed. Failed to find microphone calibration for unit serial number (my unit's number)".

Have I done something wrong or do you think I have corrupt software?


Thanks.


----------



## PaulF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15510060
> 
> 
> There are also no unexpected additions. I.e., there's no HDMI DSD input available for SACD enthusiasts (they have to convert to HDMI LPCM in the player as is the case with the current Anthems).
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I mistakenly thought the D2 could already do this. Is this a limitation of the DACs used or could it be added with a future firmware? I was hoping the D2v and Oppo BDP-83 would make a good combination, the BDP-83 will support DSD streaming over HDMI.


I am glad to see the addition of Dolby Volume, even if not initially. The only other feature I would like to see is an Ethernet port -- wonder if this might be another future hardware upgrade.


I am tossing up between pulling the trigger or buying a Yamaha Z7 until Anthem makes to clear what the future holds.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15520064
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I meant, is there a way to tell from the Anthem? Thanks



Not that I know of.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/15520302
> 
> 
> Anthem tech suppory is closed for the weekend:
> 
> I just finished my first firmware update.....ever.... in an attempt to run ARC software. The firmware seemed to load without a hitch (1.3). The first (and each subsequent time) time I tried to run ARC I get an error message, "ERROR, No calibration files found in application directory that match (code + 0x02)" . When exiting I get a "Measurement procedure failed. Failed to find microphone calibration for unit serial number (my unit's number)".
> 
> Have I done something wrong or do you think I have corrupt software?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



This is easy to fix. Your firmware install is fine.


The ARC application comes with a pair of licensing and calibration files that authorize your use of ARC for your Anthem and provide the individual calibration data for your specific ARC microphone.


The ARC application is complaining that it can't find those files.


This pair of files will be found on your original ARC install CD in the folder that also has the Setup program for installing the ARC application on your Windows computer. The files are easy to identify as their filename is numbers -- a combination of the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC microphone.


Normally these files are copied to the correct location in Windows' Program Files directory when you install ARC, and they survive each subsequent install of new ARC software versions. However, in preparation for the release of ARC for the AVM-50, Anthem changed the name of the folder where it installs ARC. So you need to get those two files into the correct folder.


On your main disk drive, go to the Program Files folder, find the folder inside it where Anthem has installed the ARC application and copy that pair of files into the same place. [Read the text file of installation notes that comes in the ARC V1.2.5 folder you download from the Anthem download page -- or on your original install CD if it comes with ARC V1.2.5. At the end of those notes are the details on the old and new folder names.]


Then you should be good to go.


-------------------------------------------


There have also been rare cases where Anthem sent out the wrong pair of files with ARC. Typically this happens if your dealer has not sent in the correct serial number for your Anthem when placing the order or mixed up your ARC kit with one he ordered for some other customer. So check that the pair of files you have actually do have names that match the combination of the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC mic.


If you have the wrong pair of files, this is not something you can fix yourself. Just get in touch with Anthem tech support on Monday and they can email the correct files to you.

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15514144
> 
> 
> Both of these amps are single-ended inputs only. No? Maybe I looked up the wrong specs.
> 
> 
> So how would you connect the D2's balanced outputs to these amps? Electrically, a simple Y adapter would work, except that the Anthem has standard 29dB gain, while the Emotiva has nonstandard 32dB gain, so you have a 3dB offset to deal with. ARC would no doubt see this and adjust it out, but probably better to use amps with matched gain.



Well I am going to make my own interconnects and you can use balanced on one end and rca at the other. I am asking the question about using both outputs because of the db difference and wondering how that will effect the sound? Will arc compensate for this difference?


----------



## cecaa850

Bob, you are incredible, thanks. Give yourself a couple of bouncy smileys from me.


Carl


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/15520502
> 
> 
> Bob, I mistakenly thought the D2 could already do this. Is this a limitation of the DACs used or could it be added with a future firmware? I was hoping the D2v and Oppo BDP-83 would make a good combination, the BDP-83 will support DSD streaming over HDMI.
> 
> 
> I am glad to see the addition of Dolby Volume, even if not initially. The only other feature I would like to see is an Ethernet port -- wonder if this might be another future hardware upgrade.
> 
> 
> I am tossing up between pulling the trigger or buying a Yamaha Z7 until Anthem makes to clear what the future holds.



I don't know precisely where the limitation is, but it is probably the DACs -- i.e., they don't support direct conversion of DSD to analog audio.


But don't let that stop you. All of the Oppo players that play SACD will convert the DSD on the SACD disc to HDMI LPCM for output. And that works just fine with both the D2 and the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/15520981
> 
> 
> Well I am going to make my own interconnects and you can use balanced on one end and rca at the other. I am asking the question about using both outputs because of the db difference and wondering how that will effect the sound? Will arc compensate for this difference?



You need a RTA to balance out your driver response. 6dB is lot for ARC to deal with. I am not familiar with your amps, hopefully 1 has volume trims for this purpose.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/15520981
> 
> 
> Well I am going to make my own interconnects and you can use balanced on one end and rca at the other. I am asking the question about using both outputs because of the db difference and wondering how that will effect the sound? Will arc compensate for this difference?



ARC will see a very odd speaker with a 6dB difference between the low and high end presenting also a sharp transition between them. It can't fix it by volume trim since both outputs will get the same trim. So it will have to devote room correction resources to fixing this. I doubt you will get results that are worth the trouble.

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15521303
> 
> 
> ARC will see a very odd speaker with a 6dB difference between the low and high end presenting also a sharp transition between them. It can't fix it by volume trim since both outputs will get the same trim. So it will have to devote room correction resources to fixing this. I doubt you will get results that are worth the trouble.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks alot. I think I will stick with one until I can get the wyred 7 channel 500watt amp!


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15520957
> 
> 
> This pair of files will be found on your original ARC install CD in the folder that also has the Setup program for installing the ARC application on your Windows computer. The files are easy to identify as their filename is numbers -- a combination of the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC microphone.
> 
> 
> Normally these files are copied to the correct location in Windows' Program Files directory when you install ARC, and they survive each subsequent install of new ARC software versions. However, in preparation for the release of ARC for the AVM-50, Anthem changed the name of the folder where it installs ARC. So you need to get those two files into the correct folder.
> 
> 
> On your main disk drive, go to the Program Files folder, find the folder inside it where Anthem has installed the ARC application and copy that pair of files into the same place. [Read the text file of installation notes that comes in the ARC V1.2.5 folder you download from the Anthem download page -- or on your original install CD if it comes with ARC V1.2.5. At the end of those notes are the details on the old and new folder names.]
> 
> --Bob



I've found the 2 files with the D2 and mics SN on them in the install disc. Those particular files DID get transferred to the ARC file along with a D2 manual, a RS-232 file and an ARC exe file. Should they be somewhere's else? I also double checked the SN's on the D2 and mic against the file #'s and they are the same.

Carl


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/15521755
> 
> 
> I've found the 2 files with the D2 and mics SN on them in the install disc. Those particular files DID get transferred to the ARC file along with a D2 manual, a RS-232 file and an ARC exe file. Should they be somewhere's else? I also double checked the SN's on the D2 and mic against the file #'s and they are the same.
> 
> Carl



After you run the Setup program to install the ARC application, all the relevant files (including these two numbered files) should be in:


My Computer, Local Disk C:\\Program Files\\Anthem\\AnthemRoomCorrection


The old, outdated location is:


My Computer, Local Disk C:\\ProgramFiles\\Anthem\\AnthemStatement\\AnthemRoomCorrect ion


Make sure the stuff is in the correct, new location.


You must run the installed copy of the ARC application (i.e. the one that's been placed in the first location above by the installer), not a copy you have in any other folder (such as in an ARC V1.2.5 install folder you have downloaded from the Anthem site). The Setup program (ARC installer) will place a "shortcut" on your desktop that you can double click to launch the installed ARC application.

--Bob


----------



## MDRbone

I know this has been addressed before, but with all the new features being announced for the AVMv2 series, I'm wondering if anyone knows for certain whether Anthem still plans for the original AVM30 to be fully upgradeable.


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15521946
> 
> 
> After you run the Setup program to install the ARC application, all the relevant files (including these two numbered files) should be in:
> 
> 
> My Computer, Local Disk C:\\Program Files\\Anthem\\AnthemRoomCorrection
> 
> 
> The old, outdated location is:
> 
> 
> My Computer, Local Disk C:\\ProgramFiles\\Anthem\\AnthemStatement\\AnthemRoomCorrect ion
> 
> 
> Make sure the stuff is in the correct, new location.
> 
> 
> You must run the installed copy of the ARC application (i.e. the one that's been placed in the first location above by the installer), not a copy you have in any other folder (such as in an ARC V1.2.5 install folder you have downloaded from the Anthem site). The Setup program (ARC installer) will place a "shortcut" on your desktop that you can double click to launch the installed ARC application.
> 
> --Bob



There's never been an AnthemStatement file. Every time I've looked for the file it's been in the correct location according to your post. The program is being run off of the disc that I got with my kit I received last week. I've also un-installed it in Add/Remove programs and reinstalled it with the same error message. Thanks, Carl.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/15523443
> 
> 
> The program is being run off of the disc that I got with my kit I received last week.



I assume you are not actually doing as your sentence above says.


You can't run the program from the CD!


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15523454
> 
> 
> I assume you are not actually doing as your sentence above says.
> 
> 
> You can't run the program from the CD!



Bad wording on my part. I've loaded the software off of the CD to the laptop and launch from the icon on my desktop. I was trying to say that I'm using the disc as opposed to getting the software online.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/15523569
> 
> 
> Bad wording on my part. I've loaded the software off of the CD to the laptop and launch from the icon on my desktop. I was trying to say that I'm using the disc as opposed to getting the software online.



That is why I said I assumed you were not doing as your statement implied.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/15521755
> 
> 
> I've found the 2 files with the D2 and mics SN on them in the install disc. Those particular files DID get transferred to the ARC file along with a D2 manual, a RS-232 file and an ARC exe file. Should they be somewhere's else? I also double checked the SN's on the D2 and mic against the file #'s and they are the same.
> 
> Carl



Likely beating a dead horse but just to be clear when you say the two mic files transferred to the ARC file do you really mean that the mic files are in the C:\\Program Files\\Anthem\\AnthemRoomCorrection directory?


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/15523722
> 
> 
> Likely beating a dead horse but just to be clear when you say the two mic files transferred to the ARC file do you really mean that the mic files are in the C:\\Program Files\\Anthem\\AnthemRoomCorrection directory?



My Computer, Local Disk C:\\Program Files\\Anthem\\AnthemRoomCorrection is where the 2 files are currently located. Beat that horse all you want if it will get this thing up and running.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well I'm stumped.


You may have some sort of "file/folder/log-in account permissions" problem in your installation on the Windows computer, but I don't know Windows well enough to tell you what to check.


It's also possible you have a corrupted pair of licensing files I suppose.


Do me a favor and verify the serial numbers again. For the Anthem, press Select multiple times on the remote and read the serial number from the last info display before it starts over again. There are certain types of hardware service which change the serial number in the unit and so any written record you have, or even the rear label, may not be correct. For example, a D1 to D1-HD upgrade causes you to get a new serial number.


I'm afraid there's nothing for it but to call Anthem tech support on Monday and have them walk you through this to figure out what's up.


Here's the way things stand as I understand it:


1) You installed the ARC application using the original ARC install CD.


2) The ARC version installed is ARC V1.2.5. You can verify this by running ARC in Advanced mode and choosing the About item in the Help menu.


3) You have upgraded the firmware on your Anthem to V1.33 (not V1.3 as I think you mentioned in your first post on this) and that completed without any complaints -- thus also demonstrating that your serial connection from the Windows PC to the Anthem is working. You can verify the firmware version currently installed by pressing Select once on the remote and reading the firmware version number from the first info displayed.


4) The ARC files, including the pair of licensing files, ended up in the correct Program Files folder without your having to do any manual copying. Their names match with the serial numbers of your Anthem and your ARC mic (to be re-verified).


5) When you attempt to run ARC and do a Measurement pass, ARC complains that it can't find licensing or calibration data for your setup. When you do this, you are using the same serial connection from computer to Anthem that you used when you did the V1.33 firmware install.


6) You have tried uninstalling the ARC application (using Add/Remove programs in Windows) and re-installing it from the CD and that didn't help.


If any of the above is incorrect, let us know and we might have some other suggestions.

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850

First and foremost Bob, thank you for all your help, you're a tremendous resource. Your last post forced me to start over and check everything. I started with your first suggestion and electronically checked the D2's SN on the front panel and compared it with the lable on the back of the machine, all was fine there. I then went to the disc and file and made sure the D2 SN and mic SN from the file folder matched what was printed on the disc jacket, OK there, Lastly I checked to make sure the disc numbers matched my D2 and





















. It appears the dyslexia crew handled my order. The middle 2 SN numbers were transposed!! My D2 reads **60** and my disc SN reads **06**. I missed it myself while all this was getting the better of me. I'll call Anthem tomorrow and see if I can't get new software. Thanks again, I can rest my pea brain for now.

Carl


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/15524457
> 
> 
> First and foremost Bob, thank you for all your help, you're a tremendous resource. Your last post forced me to start over and check everything. I started with your first suggestion and electronically checked the D2's SN on the front panel and compared it with the lable on the back of the machine, all was fine there. I then went to the disc and file and made sure the D2 SN and mic SN from the file folder matched what was printed on the disc jacket, OK there, Lastly I checked to make sure the disc numbers matched my D2 and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It appears the dyslexia crew handled my order. The middle 2 SN numbers were transposed!! My D2 reads **60** and my disc SN reads **06**. I missed it myself while all this was getting the better of me. I'll call Anthem tomorrow and see if I can't get new software. Thanks again, I can rest my pea brain for now.
> 
> Carl



It may be your dealer who transposed those when placing the order. It happens.


In any case, Anthem tech support can gen up the correct files for you and email them to you in short order. Give them a call on Monday. I'm not sure of the exact process on this. They may need you to email them your current pair of files so that they have the correct calibration file for your specific ARC mic, or they may keep copies of that data themselves. But they'll tell you what to do.


When you get the correct two files, just replace the two currently in the Anthem Program Files folder. No need to re-install the application. Be sure to backup the correct files in a safe place since you can't depend on the ones in your install CD any more.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I've seen a lot of talk about Audyssey Pro. Is it better than ARC? Can it be used with the D2? Not that I would, I'm just curious. I seen it sort of implied Audyssey Pro is as good or better than ARC.


----------



## nethomas

ohdee, I'll bet the answer to that lies with which one you have







. I have the Denon AVP A1HD and I am a pro installer. So guess what, I bet it's the best. Of course, I haven't heared ARC so how could I know?


----------



## nethomas

By the way, I don't at all mean my last post as critisim, I have read nothing but praise for the ARC. Having owned a D1 in the past. I very much respect Anthems sound.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15525345
> 
> 
> I've seen a lot of talk about Audyssey Pro. Is it better than ARC? Can it be used with the D2? Not that I would, I'm just curious. I seen it sort of implied Audyssey Pro is as good or better than ARC.



There's no need for the Audyssey stuff if you are already using ARC, and the odds are if you attempt to combine them you will not get the best out of either of them.


There has been at least one good enthusiast mag review out there of Audyssey and ARC by poster KAL here, but I don't happen to have the link off hand. The bottom line is that ARC is fantastic (as all of us here who use it can also attest) and an absolute amazing bargain for the price.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15525345
> 
> 
> I've seen a lot of talk about Audyssey Pro. Is it better than ARC? Can it be used with the D2? Not that I would, I'm just curious. I seen it sort of implied Audyssey Pro is as good or better than ARC.



It would surely be a cool experiment for someone to bolt an Audyssey Pro unit between an Anthem/ARC processor and the amplifiers. Calibrate each one correctly while the other is bypassed, then alternately listen to them (with an operator not telling the listeners which is running) to see if any preference emerges, as well as listening with all room correction turned off--to get a sense of each one's sonic effect without reference to the other.


Anyone game for a room correction party?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This is trickier than it sounds because simply turning Room EQ OFF for some input source is not the same as optimal manual set up of the Anthem without ARC (with or without Audyssey post processing). For example, the crossovers and speaker volume trims that ARC Uploaded would still be in effect even though the room correction processing itself is turned off. This is less of an issue with the new "test" ARC version, but the "official" ARC V1.2.5 is pretty likely to set the sub crossover to a high frequency (often 120Hz) which is then tamed by the room correction processing itself. If you turn off the room correction stuff, the sub with the high crossover may be too localizable -- something you wouldn't do in a full, manual setup. I suspect there would be similar issues with the main speakers.


And turning off Room EQ for a source also re-engages Center EQ, Room Resonance Filter, and the THX Ultra 2 Sub / Boundary Gain options in the rest of the Anthem setup should you happen to have any of those defined.


So you would have to be a bit careful as to what you were actually comparing. The same is true even without Audyssey if you are just trying to do quick A/B comparisons within the Anthem itself for Room EQ ON/OFF.


---------------------------------------------


I like to suggest that folks who are interested in such stuff go through the effort of setting up their Anthem as best they can WITHOUT ARC, and then, after they get a feel for how good it sounds that way, replace that with the automated ARC setup. That's the most meaningful comparison of what ARC brings to the table -- and the reports here from folks who have had substantial experience with their Anthem PRIOR to installing ARC have been overwhelmingly enthusiastic.


You'd need to do a similar thing comparing an Anthem plus external Audyssey setup against an Anthem/ARC setup.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

Bob thx for the response. fyi: i increased the rs db level to 79 (from 75) and the LF speaker responded with the typical 9 pings.[my arc always pings 9 times at the LF). The rest of the measurements went well. i also did a test correction to the 20hz range, per your recommendation, and there is so small a difference as to be meaningless (at least to my eye).

the new charts as measured at the 79db level reflect slightly different readings from the ones you reviewed which were at 75 db, but, again, where the deltas exist, arc corrected!

walt


----------



## yacht422

I have a d2/dvr question. my direct tv dvr provides wonderful performance on all channels







, save the pbs stations







(3).(i.e. 16X9 material is full screen, and 4X3 material is boxed on the ends)

the screen pictures from the three PBS stations, however, are totally letterboxed within the full screen.









for instance, the screen is 123", and with dvd/br material, the top and bottom are black banded. ok.

with the PBS stations, the viewing image is roughly 65" dia.

the top;bottom; sides are all black banded. and generally the picture quality is inferior to the picture in my living room rp 60" sony. [with a direct tv non dvr unit]

i have run out of adjustment screens to access in an attempt to bring the PBS stations up to the same quality and screen size as i enjoy for abc/cbs/fox et. al.

is this a direct tv signal issue, or have i failed to find that one adjustment that will correct things?

thank you

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Some PBS broadcasts (and also some other stations) are content originally intended for HD, which has been scaled down and letterboxed for SD (small 16:9 embedded in 4:3), and then scaled back up again and broadcast as HD (small 4:3 embedded in larger 16:9).


The result is a 16:9 image floating in the middle of the screen with black around all 4 sides. Even though this is an HD broadcast, the content has actually been reduced to SD quality and is letterboxed inside the SD frame.


Now there's nothing you can do about the loss of quality when the HD is scaled down to SD, but you CAN get the Anthem to fill the screen with this stuff. What you need to do is extract the small, embedded 16:9 frame from the larger HD broadcast 16:9 frame. You do that by setting up a Custom Crop Input setting in the Video Source Adjust > Crop Input menu. Then you select that Custom crop instead of the HDMI Auto setting you would normally use.


The details can be found in one of the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling links in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.


-----------------------------------


I don't know why you wouldn't also be seeing this on the non-DVR receiver connected to your other TV. But at a guess, you've got a zoom mode of some sort enabled in the TV.


-----------------------------------


Make sure your DVR is set to think it is connected to a 16:9 TV. That's really the only thing you could have wrong in there.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15526460
> 
> 
> This is trickier than it sounds because simply turning Room EQ OFF for some input source is not the same as optimal manual set up of the Anthem without ARC (with or without Audyssey post processing).



Yes but there's more. It was necessary to have two complete setups for the D-2 so that rapid A/B was not possible. One Anthem setup (for using ARC) also had to include manual compensation for the time/level changes introduced by the Audyssey SEQ in "bypass." The other Anthem setup (for using Audyssey) had to utilize the level/distance/crossover settings prescribed by the Audyssey measurements. See: http://stereophile.com/musicintheround/1108mitr/


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/15529437
> 
> 
> Yes but there's more. It was necessary to have two complete setups for the D-2 so that rapid A/B was not possible. One Anthem setup (for using ARC) also had to include manual compensation for the time/level changes introduced by the Audyssey SEQ in "bypass." The other Anthem setup (for using Audyssey) had to utilize the level/distance/crossover settings prescribed by the Audyssey measurements. See: http://stereophile.com/musicintheround/1108mitr/



Kal I read your comparaison last week and this is really good attempt to compare both. As you said there is no simple way to campare both.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The more I listen to my ARC V1.2.14 setup (based on my ARC V1.2.13 Measurements) the better it sounds!


I'm surprised, frankly, since the charts, targets and uploaded values all appear the same as what V1.2.13 produced. But there it is nonetheless.


Music is spectacular. And even DD 2.0 TV broadcasts, just processed by PLIIx, sound amazingly good. In my setup, I think they've finally achieved something that exceeds what "official" ARC V1.2.5 could produce.


The Wow! is back!









--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15533159
> 
> 
> The more I listen to my ARC V1.2.14 setup (based on my ARC V1.2.13 Measurements) the better it sounds!
> 
> 
> I'm surprised, frankly, since the charts, targets and uploaded values all appear the same as what V1.2.13 produced. But there it is nonetheless.
> 
> 
> Music is spectacular. And even DD 2.0 TV broadcasts, just processed by PLIIx, sound amazingly good. In my setup, I think they've finally achieved something that exceeds what "official" ARC V1.2.5 could produce.
> 
> 
> The Wow! is back!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


Did you use a previous measurement file from another ARC version and recalculate or did you perform a new measurement alltogether?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15533442
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Did you use a previous measurement file from another ARC version and recalculate or did you perform a new measurement alltogether?
> 
> 
> Thanks



This was a V1.2.14 Calculation (at 20KHz) based on the better of the two, new Measurement passes I did with V1.2.13. I also did an Auto Detect in the Targets window before doing this Calculation -- although it didn't appear to actually change anything from what V1.2.13 had already set up for the Targets.


I don't know if there would be any additional improvement if I did another new Measurement. At this point I probably won't Measure again until the new version becomes "official".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Anthem Statement D2v *DRAFT* User Manual coming soon!*


I've received a copy of the *DRAFT* D2v User Manual from Nick at Anthem and I'm working with DRHANKZ right now to get it hosted and a link posted here just like we did with the D2v and AVM 50v Product Data Sheets.


There is still some polishing to be done in this version, but Nick tells me all the words are there. He suggests searching for "7.1" to find D2v related changes from the prior D2 manual, but there are obviously other changes as well such as in the Connections section and the "Big Pictures".


This version does *NOT* yet include the info on the upcoming Dolby Volume feature.


Apparently the firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v will be named V2.0x.


Stay tuned -- link coming soon. (And no, I'm not going to try and do page by page screen captures of this one!







)

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15533783
> 
> *Anthem Statement D2v *DRAFT* User Manual coming soon!*
> 
> 
> --Bob


*HERE is the D2v DRAFT Manual
*


Courtesy of Bob and Nick!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I haven't spotted any changes in the video input/output settings of the D2v related to the new stuff the hardware can do. Of course this can change in future firmware.


There is the expected warning that trying to use a Deep Color connection means you have to use an HDMI cable labeled as "V1.3" and "for 1080p" or "high speed" or "category 2" -- i.e., a cable that has been tested to handle the higher bandwidth of such signals. The manual also points out that some source and/or display hardware that claims to support "Deep Color" may only do so if you are using a 1080p/24 connection -- i.e., not 1080p/50 or 1080p/60. I imagine they ran into this with some of the source/display devices they used for testing.


And there are a few cases where the necessary updates have not yet made it into the draft manual. For example, the Connections section, at the moment, still says that HDMI LPCM input is limited to 5.1 channels (the D2v can actually handle up to 7.1 channels at 192KHz/24bit).

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15533969
> 
> *HERE is the D2v DRAFT Manual
> *
> 
> 
> Courtesy of Bob and Nick!



You guys are the best!


----------



## CycloneMike

Bob,


I need to rerun my ARC setup due to substantial room changes (see attached photos - the one with the black curtains is the current setup).


I do have access to the beta versions.


I also run full range front speakers (actually a sub/monitor combination). The attached doc file shows the previous ARC implementing a crossover where the speakers response does not need one.


Which beta version has been corrected to allow full range front speakers and not apply an artificially high cutoff? I have been very busy and have lost track of the changes since the last publically available ARC software version.


Thank you,


Mike

 

MUSIC-08200107.doc 90.5k . file


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15527404
> 
> 
> Some PBS broadcasts (and also some other stations) are content originally intended for HD, which has been scaled down and letterboxed for SD (small 16:9 embedded in 4:3), and then scaled back up again and broadcast as HD (small 4:3 embedded in larger 16:9).
> 
> 
> The result is a 16:9 image floating in the middle of the screen with black around all 4 sides. Even though this is an HD broadcast, the content has actually been reduced to SD quality and is letterboxed inside the SD frame.
> 
> 
> Now there's nothing you can do about the loss of quality when the HD is scaled down to SD, but you CAN get the Anthem to fill the screen with this stuff. What you need to do is extract the small, embedded 16:9 frame from the larger HD broadcast 16:9 frame. You do that by setting up a Custom Crop Input setting in the Video Source Adjust > Crop Input menu. Then you select that Custom crop instead of the HDMI Auto setting you would normally use.
> 
> 
> The details can be found in one of the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling links in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> I don't know why you wouldn't also be seeing this on the non-DVR receiver connected to your other TV. But at a guess, you've got a zoom mode of some sort enabled in the TV.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> Make sure your DVR is set to think it is connected to a 16:9 TV. That's really the only thing you could have wrong in there.
> 
> --Bob



bob: thx: i'll do this tonight - but, why in heavens name do the broadcast idiots DO THIS?







(rhetorical question)

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15534885
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I need to rerun my ARC setup due to substantial room changes (see attached photos - the one with the black curtains is the current setup).
> 
> 
> I do have access to the beta versions.
> 
> 
> I also run full range front speakers (actually a sub/monitor combination). The attached doc file shows the previous ARC implementing a crossover where the speakers response does not need one.
> 
> 
> Which beta version has been corrected to allow full range front speakers and not apply an artificially high cutoff? I have been very busy and have lost track of the changes since the last publically available ARC software version.
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> Mike



I believe you can do this with either the "official" ARC V1.2.5 or the "test" ARC V1.2.14, although the method is a little different due to improvements in V1.2.14.


Open a set of Measurements which include a 2.0 or 2.1 Music Configuration.


Go to the Targets window. In ARC V1.2.5 change the crossovers for Music LF/RF to the lowest allowed value of 25Hz. In ARC V1.2.14 change the "cutoffs" for Music LF/RF to 25Hz and confirm the Full Range box is checked which has the effect of doing the same thing for the crossovers (V1.2.14 has separated the concepts of low-end, room correction processing "cutoff" and bass steering "crossover"). If you Measured with a 2.0 configuration instead of a 2.1 configuration the Full Range box should already be checked (and grayed out as you can't change it). If you Measured with a 2.1 configuration, check the Full Range box.


Adjust the Max EQ Frequency target as you find best.


Accept those changes (which also dismisses the Targets window), and do a Calculation. If you like the results, do an Upload.


If you Measured with a 2.1 configuration then there's one more step to do. Go into the Setup menu and delete the subwoofer from your configuration to reduce it down to 2.0 again.


Now there's a complication here for ARC V1.2.5. Although I haven't tried this myself, my understanding is that if you have a subwoofer configured in your system (in addition to the full range front speakers), then what you are supposed to do is take your Music Measurements using a 2.1 configuration even though what you want is 2.0.


Then manually alter the LF/RF crossover targets down to 25Hz, Calculate and Upload as described above. This will Upload a 2.1 configuration for Music.


Then, if what you really want is a 2.0 configuration for Music, go into the Setup menu and manually delete the subwoofer from the Music configuration without changing anything else. I believe this is due to confusion in ARC V1.2.5 between a "Large" speaker setup (which is forced when you have no sub), and the effective equivalent of setting the crossover for the fronts down to the minimal value of 25Hz.


Frankly it has been so long since we last discussed that here that I forget the details. If you want to do this with ARC V1.2.5 it might be best to email Nick at Anthem and confirm precisely what should be done. My vague recollection is that if you actuallly do a 2.0 Measurement in ARC V1.2.5 it sets crossover values -- just as you are seeing now -- which are grayed (unchangeable) since a 2.0 configuration in the Setup menu forces "Large" -- i.e., no crossovers you can change. But you can't just leave it at that because ARC V1.2.5 also has low end room correction "cutoff" values (hidden) which are set by the software to match the crossover values. So you have to do a 2.1 Measurement so that the crossover target values are alterable (which means changing them also changes the hidden "cutoff" values), and then, after Uploading, you go in and manually delete the sub from the configuration making it 2.0 again -- no crossovers and with the correct, hidden "cutoff" values to match.


With "test" ARC V1.2.14, my understanding is that you can actually Measure using a 2.0 configuration. The Full Range box for LF/RF in the Targets window will be checked (and grayed -- unchangeable) meaning no bass steering will be attempted -- no "crossover". However, ARC still sets what it thinks is an appropriate lower contour for room correction for the LF/RF speakers (the "cutoff" target), and if you want to push that all the way down you still need to manually change that to 25Hz, accept the change, and Calculate/Upload.


Just as with "crossovers" the low-end room correction "cutoff" is not a hard stopping point for room correction. Rather it sets the contour of the roll-off of low frequencies. So if you set it to 25Hz you are still getting room correction below that point.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick tells me that the draft manual write up on Video Output and Video Source Adjust is correct for the D2v launch firmware. However he teases that some changes are coming. I suspect that will happen when the firmware release with Dolby Volume happens. I don't have an ETA on that, but my guess is it will be pretty quick after the hardware ships.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15535259
> 
> 
> I believe you can do this with either the "official" ARC V1.2.5 or the "test" ARC V1.2.14, although the method is a little different due to improvements in V1.2.14.
> 
> 
> Open a set of Measurements which include a 2.0 or 2.1 Music Configuration.
> 
> 
> Go to the Targets window. In ARC V1.2.5 change the crossovers for Music LF/RF to the lowest allowed value of 25Hz. In ARC V1.2.14 change the "cutoffs" for Music LF/RF to 25Hz and confirm the Full Range box is checked which has the effect of doing the same thing for the crossovers (V1.2.14 has separated the concepts of low-end, room correction processing "cutoff" and bass steering "crossover"). If you Measured with a 2.0 configuration instead of a 2.1 configuration the Full Range box should already be checked (and grayed out as you can't change it). If you Measured with a 2.1 configuration, check the Full Range box.
> 
> 
> Adjust the Max EQ Frequency target as you find best.
> 
> 
> Accept those changes (which also dismisses the Targets window), and do a Calculation. If you like the results, do an Upload.
> 
> 
> If you Measured with a 2.1 configuration then there's one more step to do. Go into the Setup menu and delete the subwoofer from your configuration to reduce it down to 2.0 again.
> 
> 
> Now there's a complication here for ARC V1.2.5. Although I haven't tried this myself, my understanding is that if you have a subwoofer configured in your system (in addition to the full range front speakers), then what you are supposed to do is take your Music Measurements using a 2.1 configuration even though what you want is 2.0.
> 
> 
> Then manually alter the LF/RF crossover targets down to 25Hz, Calculate and Upload as described above. This will Upload a 2.1 configuration for Music.
> 
> 
> Then, if what you really want is a 2.0 configuration for Music, go into the Setup menu and manually delete the subwoofer from the Music configuration without changing anything else. I believe this is due to confusion in ARC V1.2.5 between a "Large" speaker setup (which is forced when you have no sub), and the effective equivalent of setting the crossover for the fronts down to the minimal value of 25Hz.
> 
> 
> Frankly it has been so long since we last discussed that here that I forget the details. If you want to do this with ARC V1.2.5 it might be best to email Nick at Anthem and confirm precisely what should be done. My vague recollection is that if you actuallly do a 2.0 Measurement in ARC V1.2.5 it sets crossover values -- just as you are seeing now -- which are grayed (unchangeable) since a 2.0 configuration in the Setup menu forces "Large" -- i.e., no crossovers you can change. But you can't just leave it at that because ARC V1.2.5 also has low end room correction "cutoff" values (hidden) which are set by the software to match the crossover values. So you have to do a 2.1 Measurement so that the crossover target values are alterable (which means changing them also changes the hidden "cutoff" values), and then, after Uploading, you go in and manually delete the sub from the configuration making it 2.0 again -- no crossovers and with the correct, hidden "cutoff" values to match.
> 
> 
> With "test" ARC V1.2.14, my understanding is that you can actually Measure using a 2.0 configuration. The Full Range box for LF/RF in the Targets window will be checked (and grayed -- unchangeable) meaning no bass steering will be attempted -- no "crossover". However, ARC still sets what it thinks is an appropriate lower contour for room correction for the LF/RF speakers (the "cutoff" target), and if you want to push that all the way down you still need to manually change that to 25Hz, accept the change, and Calculate/Upload.
> 
> 
> Just as with "crossovers" the low-end room correction "cutoff" is not a hard stopping point for room correction. Rather it sets the contour of the roll-off of low frequencies. So if you set it to 25Hz you are still getting room correction below that point.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thank you - I think you hit it right on the head. Now I just have to squeeze in the time to redo the measurements in my new room configuration.


Mike


----------



## jayray

I asked Nick about bringing in my AVM50 for the upgrade and wondered if it was an involved process. Here was his answer.


"Yes - it's very involved - unit has to be disassembled and the testing has over *1800* steps on custom equipment."









John


----------



## Big Tex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15449701
> 
> 
> As the Manual states, the Dipole setting merely simplifies distance (timing) adjustment for dipole spears -- i.e., matches the largest distance for your other speakers. Since dipole speakers work by bouncing sound off the surroundings, their direct line distance from the listening position is not relevant.
> 
> 
> In any event, if you have the surround speakers themselves set to Bipole you should use the Direct setting in the Anthem so that the speaker distance (timing adjustments) are properly applied by the Anthem. If you set the speakers to Dipole, use the Dipole setting in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> You didn't mention this time what you were using for the Max EQ Frequency target when you did the ARC calculation. I think you should probably try raising that from the default 5KHz value to something closer to the max 20KHz value and see what sort of results curves you get.
> 
> 
> You can try a few different values up there quite easily to see how the Calculated (green) curves change. Do this with both the Bipole/Direct and with the Dipole/Dipole Measurement files. Discard the Dipole/Direct Measurement file as you do not want to use that configuration.
> 
> 
> It may just be that your surround speakers are weak in high frequencies, but if you tell ARC to correct up that high that should help.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Bass and Treble are "on the fly" adjustment controls you can make for your personal preference according to whatever content you are watching at the moment. Their settings do not affect the ARC setup. In the 2+ years I've had my D2 I don't think I've ever used them.
> 
> 
> I listen mostly to movies with multi-channel tracks, and I have a 5.1 speaker system, so there are no choices for me to make on surround audio modes -- i.e., there's no work for the D2 to do. 5.1 in just goes to 5.1 out.
> 
> 
> Since you have a 7.1 speaker system, I suggest you use PLIIx to raise 5.1 channel input to 7.1 speaker output. It's entirely personal preference which of the PLIIx modes you use to do that -- read the Manual for some discussion of the differences between them.
> 
> 
> When listening to stereo content, my personal preference is:
> 
> 
> 1) For Music stereo content: Stereo -- i.e., no surround speakers. Just the LF/RF and sub.
> 
> 
> 2) For regular TV programs: Anthem Cinema
> 
> 
> 3) For Movies with stereo sound tracks (on disc or broadcast TV): PLIIx, to raise the 2.0 channel input to 5.1 speaker output. Note that I don't have to chose between the different PLIIx modes as they only differ in what they would send to rear speakers and I don't have rear speakers.
> 
> 
> I used to add THX post processing when watching movies, but now with ARC I don't do that any longer.
> 
> --Bob




Bob,


Thanks for taking the time to read my results and post back. To be honest...tonight is the first night I've had the guts to get back on AVS and read your feedback. Even though I still don't fully understand these graphs, I knew they looked similar to my original charts. I'm so disappointed. These are very good surround speakers. We pulled them from the ceiling, inspected the connections and tested the components.


Arggggggggggggg. I don't know what to do. The latest graphs were run at the 20k threshold in expert mode, so I've tried that trick.


This shouldn't be happening.


Can you please do me a small favor and look at the graphs one more time. Do you see any triggers or evidence of some phenomenon?


I really don't want to dump the speakers. To be honest...it's not really an option given the room configuration.


I'm so depressed. I've spent a fortune on this bad daddy system only to find out it sucks. I kind of wish I never had purchased the ARC; that way I would have never known I have a under performing system that can't be corrected.




I'm looking for any and all advice. If necessary I have some time this weekend to run more tests. I could turn the threshold down to 10 MHz from 20 MHz.


For a moment can someone please recommend a good sub? I am going to go buy a new sub to make myself fell better. My dealer has suggested two Martin Logan Abyss's. Thoughts.... I don't know squat about subs. I have 3500 cubic feet of space I need to woof. What 3 or 4 subs should I audition?


Damn this sucks. It just kills me to have a crappy system after investing so much money in it. Damnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn.....



Big Tex


PS. Thanks everyone for the help!!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tex,

I'm afraid I'm close to out of ideas, but I do have one more. Email your best file of ARC results -- the one that comes closest to being good -- to Anthem tech support, describe your speaker setup, and ask them if they have any suggestions. Send the saved ARC file -- NOT the screen captures of the ARC charts. Anthem can extract much more info from the data file than is visible in the charts.


Make sure to tell them what you've already done to verify the surrounds are installed properly and are functioning properly.


Next, ask them if they think it would be a good idea for you to try the "test" ARC v1.2.14. That version takes a different approach to Measuring the highest frequencies, and to correcting them if you set the Max EQ Frequency target that high. It's a long shot, but that new version might do better with your problem speakers.


If you install "test" ARC v1.2.14 you should plan on doing a new set of Measurements and then Calculate after setting a high Max EQ Frequency target.


-------------------------------


I like the "servo" subs sold by Velodyne and Paradigm. I have a Velodyne DD series sub myself -- purchased before ARC came out. At this point it probably wouldn't make sense to pay for the bass EQ system built into that one since ARC does all that. But take a look anyway. Servo subs in general go quite deep. The sub forum here has a ton of fans of the SVS subs.

--Bob


----------



## glennQNYC

I'd suggest not letting a computer determine your enjoyment. Do YOU like what you hear?


glennQ


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15539411
> 
> 
> I'm so disappointed. These are very good surround speakers. We pulled them from the ceiling, inspected the connections and tested the components.
> 
> 
> Arggggggggggggg. I don't know what to do.



Sorry if this is something you already covered. I found info on your speakers, but have you mentioned the room setup? Might you have an accurate diagram of the room/speakers/seating/mic locations? I'd like to have a look at it.


----------



## zr123

Does anyone know if there is an iPod Dock available for the Anthem AVM 50?


----------



## facke02

Any chance of getting the AVM50v manual?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15533783
> 
> *Anthem Statement D2v *DRAFT* User Manual coming soon!*
> 
> 
> I've received a copy of the *DRAFT* D2v User Manual from Nick at Anthem and I'm working with DRHANKZ right now to get it hosted and a link posted here just like we did with the D2v and AVM 50v Product Data Sheets.
> 
> 
> There is still some polishing to be done in this version, but Nick tells me all the words are there. He suggests searching for "7.1" to find D2v related changes from the prior D2 manual, but there are obviously other changes as well such as in the Connections section and the "Big Pictures".
> 
> 
> This version does *NOT* yet include the info on the upcoming Dolby Volume feature.
> 
> 
> Apparently the firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v will be named V2.0x.
> 
> 
> Stay tuned -- link coming soon. (And no, I'm not going to try and do page by page screen captures of this one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15536519
> 
> 
> I asked Nick about bringing in my AVM50 for the upgrade and wondered if it was an involved process. Here was his answer.
> 
> 
> "Yes - it's very involved - unit has to be disassembled and the testing has over *1800* steps on custom equipment."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



This is exactly wath I mentionned in ap previous post Anthem process upgrad ethe same way the process the manufacturing of a new unit. There is only one assembly/testing production line.


This explain why sometime the upgrade are expensive but at the end of the day this is giving us their customer top quality.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15540114
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if there is an iPod Dock available for the Anthem AVM 50?



No.


I personnally never try it but a good one to use is the Itransport from wadia since it allow to go out of the ipod digitally and not to use the cheapo DAC inside the Ipod using the coax connection.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15540114
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if there is an iPod Dock available for the Anthem AVM 50?



I use the ipod dock. It goes in CD by analog and then I use the AnalogDSP in source setup to allow ARC to work on it. This works very well.

Johnb


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15541129
> 
> 
> This is exactly wath I mentionned in ap previous post Anthem process upgrad ethe same way the process the manufacturing of a new unit. There is only one assembly/testing production line.
> 
> 
> This explain why sometime the upgrade are expensive but at the end of the day this is giving us their customer top quality.



Tolstoi,

How long doe you thing it would take for the upgrade given this process?

John


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15541807
> 
> 
> Tolstoi,
> 
> How long doe you thing it would take for the upgrade given this process?
> 
> John



The real question to ask is "when will Anthem be offering the ability to present owners to upgrade?" I suspect that Anthem will need to have produced enough new D2V's to fill present and future orders and have a decent inventory on hand, before offering the upgrade. This could be sooner or later, depending upon present world-wideeconomic conditions. And, while we have an idea about the cost of the upgrade, we still do not know for sure what the final cost of the upgrade is going to be.


And, I suspect that when Anthem is ready, one could expect to be without a unit for a minimum of 3 weeks, assuming one week to ship, 7-10 days to upgrade and test, and one week to ship back (unless you can walk your unit into the factory in CA.).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/15540968
> 
> 
> Any chance of getting the AVM50v manual?



No word on that one yet. I'll check.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15541807
> 
> 
> Tolstoi,
> 
> How long doe you thing it would take for the upgrade given this process?
> 
> John



Based on the D1 -> D2 upgrade, Anthem will need the unit in the factory for about a week. I believe they will tell you when to send it in so that they have capacity to keep it to just that (i.e., they don't have a ton of upgrades all showing up at once).


If that turns out to be correct, then the real time delay will be in shipping both ways. If you are not in Canada the unit has to go through Customs each way. That can make the total time before you get your unit back as much as 6 weeks depending on how backed up Customs is at the time and the method of shipping you use.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15542902
> 
> 
> No word on that one yet. I'll check.
> 
> --Bob



I have NEW Anthem v2 Smiley Icons


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15543015
> 
> 
> I have NEW Anthem v2 Smiley Icons



What??


Anthem is already shipping new D2v Smiley Icons. How did these get through customs so quickly???











Now, all you need is a real D2v piece of hardware for your collection!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15543160
> 
> 
> What??
> 
> 
> Anthem is already shipping new D2v Smiley Icons. How did these get through customs so quickly???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, all you need is a real D2v piece of hardware for your collection!



You need *CONNECTIONS* to get D2v Hardware Early


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15543236
> 
> 
> You need *CONNECTIONS* to get D2v Hardware Early



I thought that there were new D2v import restrictions in New Hampshire.










But, I know that you can really use the 8 hdmi CONNECTIONS!










Is it in your rack? Pictures please!


Congrats!


I just ordered one today from my dealer as I may have my existing unit sold locally, and I have absolutely no desire to go through the upgrade process.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*And the crowd goes wild!*








.







..







..







..







.







..







..







.





































.







..







..







..







.







..







..







.










--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15543306
> 
> 
> I thought that there were new D2v import restrictions in New Hampshire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, I know that you can really use the 8 hdmi CONNECTIONS!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it in your rack? Pictures please!
> 
> 
> Congrats!
> 
> 
> I just ordered one today from my dealer as I may have my existing unit sold locally, and I have absolutely no desire to go through the upgrade process.



There are no Import Restrictions on Non-Shipping Products































Bob has showed you HIS pictures already.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15543398
> 
> *And the crowd goes wild!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> 
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> .
> 
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> ..
> 
> 
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> 
> ..
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> .
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> .
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> ..
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> ..
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> ..
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> .
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



There you go Bob - One UPPING the Hankster


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just showing that there are still a lot of v1 owners out there.










--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15543409
> 
> 
> There are no Import Restrictions on Non-Shipping Products



I have no CONNECTIONS, but I understand that official shipping should begin in a few days.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15543704
> 
> 
> I have no CONNECTIONS, but I understand that official shipping should begin in a few days.



I'm sure waiting v2 Customers will be Happy.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15542658
> 
> 
> The real question to ask is "when will Anthem be offering the ability to present owners to upgrade?" I suspect that Anthem will need to have produced enough new D2V's to fill present and future orders and have a decent inventory on hand, before offering the upgrade. This could be sooner or later, depending upon present world-wideeconomic conditions. And, while we have an idea about the cost of the upgrade, we still do not know for sure what the final cost of the upgrade is going to be.
> 
> 
> And, I suspect that when Anthem is ready, one could expect to be without a unit for a minimum of 3 weeks, assuming one week to ship, 7-10 days to upgrade and test, and one week to ship back (unless you can walk your unit into the factory in CA.).



Nick mentioned yesterday that Feb. is likely date for upgrade availability. Given I live 10 min. away from Anthem, I will try to get mine in as soon as they give the go ahead. I could live for a week without my HT









John


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15545007
> 
> 
> Nick mentioned yesterday that Feb. is likely date for upgrade availability. Given I live 10 min. away from Anthem, I will try to get mine in as soon as they give the go ahead. I could live for a week without my HT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I’m not sure what to do. Should a guy send his unit off as soon as they announce they’re accepting D2’s for the upgrade or should a guy wait a few months assuming Anthem will receive a truckload the first week?


This is where it gets tricky. Maybe most people will hold off assuming Anthem will get a truckload in and most people will wait a few months. Maybe if I send mine in day one it’ll be the only one they get?


What to do what to do?


I just got mine a month ago so I'm sure it'll be the cleanest D2 they get back! They'll be like Oh remember this one. This was the best D2 that ever rolled out of here. Here's one lucky guy!


----------



## jayray

If I were you, I'd wait until they say GO. Otherwise you may be without your HT for a long time









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

When you (or your dealer) get in touch with Anthem about scheduling the upgrade, they'll likely be able to tell you whether they can accept it right away for quick turnaround or whether you should wait to send it until your slot comes up in the queue. That way you can continue using what you have until your slot comes up.


Keep in mind that they don't want a bunch of units sitting around their place awaiting upgrades either.


This is not the first upgrade program Anthem has done, so they have some experience with the logistics on this. The one thing they can never control is what's going on in Customs that might cause delays one or both ways.


*jealousy of folks who live within 10 minutes of the Anthem factory*

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15545007
> 
> 
> Nick mentioned yesterday that Feb. is likely date for upgrade availability. Given I live 10 min. away from Anthem, I will try to get mine in as soon as they give the go ahead. I could live for a week without my HT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



John, I knew that I recognized Mississauga, Ontario. You are one lucky D2 Dude!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks interested in a sneak peak at the AVM 50v manual, I just heard from Nick that there *ISN'T* a separate AVM 50v manual yet.


Apparently all the word-smithing gets done in the D2v draft manual, and the AVM 50v manual is created from the latest D2v manual at the last minute by a set script of edits (unit name, artwork, packing list, specs page, and deleting the references to 192KHz upsampling).


--------------------------------------------------


I've also asked Nick for some help describing the differences between the D2v and the AVM 50v that go towards the price difference and how they impact the A/V quality.


Obviously the addition of ARC to the AVM 50 and the A/V upgrades in the AVM 50v have reduced the gap between the two lines. Nick tells me that despite this, the D2 still handily outsells the AVM 50, and they expect that is likely to continue with the new models. Folks paying this much for an A/V pre-pro want the best they can get, and are, apparently, willing to pay for that even if that costs disproportionately more than the improvements achieved.


The problem of course is that most folks will find it difficult to arrange an actual listening comparison, so they have to go by descriptions.


-----------------------------------------------


One surprise I got, is Nick is now telling me that *ALL* the units with video processors now share the same power supply.


And of course the AVM 50, and AVM 50v now come bundled with ARC so the DSP processing power, calibrated mic, and ARC software are also no longer cost differentiators.


So what still goes into the higher parts cost?


1) Better ADC -- important to folks with analog inputs

2) Better DAC -- this is a biggie for everyone as it is fundamental to analog output quality

3) Better op amps -- also a biggie for everyone

4) Differential circuit on the 6 channel input

5) More expensive passive components

6) Upsampling


Take something like "better DAC". The parts cost difference is not simply a function of the DAC chips. You also have more expensive components surrounding that chip -- in particular high-end capacitors.


Upsampling is the process of converting all digital (and processed analog) audio input to 192KHz/24bit before any of the DSP processing happens. The DACs then take that 192KHz/24bit stream and convert that directly to analog for output.


Upsampling flows through the entire signal path: Faster clocks and chips that are designed to work with those clocks for example, component and signal layout choices designed to expect the higher bandwidth signals, etc. It is not too far off base to consider "upsampling" as a surrogate for ALL of the processing differences between the AVM 50v and the D2v.


So what's with this upsampling stuff anyway? Why does it make a difference? To understand that you need to learn some basic facts about how digital processing of real-world, analog, audio-video signals actually happens.


Here's a post I wrote on that in this thread many moons ago:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ng#post8079464 


And here's a white paper Anthem put up on this subject from back in the Statement D1 era:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...SamplingD1.pdf 


Anthem uses Burr-Brown upsamplers in the D2 and D2v (expensive). Nick tells me the ADCs are 5x the cost of the regular ones. Dacs and op-amps are 3x the cost. And again this doesn't include the cost of the higher quality components that have to surround them.


Measured with lab equipment, the results are obviously superior, but as is the case with most audiophile stuff, the lab tests are not really relevant. What's relevant is what you can actually hear. And again, as with most audiophile equipment, what you can hear is a function of many things including the quality of the content you are playing, the quality of the equipment surrounding the Anthem pre-pro, and yes, even the degree to which you have trained your own critical listening faculties.


The D2 and D2v are in the "near exotic" class of equipment in my estimation -- and Anthem expects you to pay for that. Such equipment exhibits diminishing returns -- you can pay a lot more for only a little improvement.


As comparison, I would say that folks who added ARC to their original AVM 50 (an incredible bargain of an upgrade) probably got more net return in audio quality than if they had gone from the AVM 50 without ARC to a D2 without ARC.


Right now, I would say the AVM 50v (which comes bundled with ARC) is a real bargain. Nick suggests the same -- saying that if the price gap were to close it would likely be a result more of raising the AVM 50v pricing than of lowering the D2v pricing.


All of this stuff is incredibly hard to sort out. What's really needed is to find a way to compare the two units in actual use. But unfortunately that is not possible for most people due to the dealers simply not keeping demo units in stock.


Anyway, I hope this ramble helps people focus their thinking a bit.


--------------------------------------------------


ETA: Another note from Nick on this is that one of the most impressive things about the D2 (and now the D2v) is that Anthem's listener tests show that the digital audio signal path in the Statement is "transparent".


That is, in a carefully controlled A/B test with high quality content and surrounding equipment, and with speakers set to Large, ARC not in use, etc., so that the digital side has no work to do other than transporting the audio, listeners essentially can not detect whether analog audio input is being digitized by the ADC, upsampled, and then converted back to analog for output by the DAC, as opposed to "Analog Direct" pass through. This transparency of the ADC -> DAC chain in the D2 is crucial because it means that people can, in fact, allow the D2 (or D2v) to digitize their analog sources -- thus enabling value-added processing such as ARC -- without automatically paying a penalty simply for going in and out of the digital stuff.

--Bob


----------



## flavorguy

As someone with a AVM 50V2 on pre-order, I appreciate describing the difference between it and the D2.


As much as I would love to have the D2, I can sleep a bit better a night with the extra 2K in the checking account...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15546940
> 
> 
> As someone with a AVM 50V2 on pre-order, I appreciate describing the difference between it and the D2.
> 
> 
> As much as I would love to have the D2, I can sleep a bit better a night with the extra 2K in the checking account...



I take it your dealer actually quoted you a price on the AVM 50v? I didn't think dealers had the AVM 50v pricing from Anthem yet. (I.e., we're all kind of guessing it really will be $2k less than the pricing of the D2v, which the dealers DO have on their latest Anthem price sheet.)

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15547002
> 
> 
> I take it your dealer actually quoted you a price on the AVM 50v? I didn't think dealers had the AVM 50v pricing from Anthem yet. (I.e., we're all kind of guessing it really will be $2k less than the pricing of the D2v, which the dealers DO have on their latest Anthem price sheet.)
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I was at my dealer on Saturday he was talking $2K difference in the AVM50v too. Not sure how true that is...


Also, thanks for the info on the AVM50v... It's at the top of my list, with all the problems and delays with the other pre/pros.


----------



## ninja12

Ever since I have had ARC, my room gain has always been zero. So, I force it between 2.5 and 3.5. Is that really a bad thing to do since ARC did not automatic create a room gain? I have seen the results of many people's measurements. Some of them look better than mine and some of them do not; but, all of them have room gain. I'm puzzled by that. I guess I will send my ARC File to Anthem Tech Support to see if they can see what's really causing ARC to not generate any room gain for me.


----------



## gblack

Interesting article on Engadget about Anthem partnering with JVC to provide an HTIB which would presumably contain an AVM or statement pre pro and a JVC projector rebranded under Anthem's brand.

http://www.engadgethd.com/2009/01/13...igh-end-htibs/


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15546653
> 
> 
> Upsampling flows through the entire signal path: Faster clocks and chips that are designed to work with those clocks for example, component and signal layout choices designed to expect the higher bandwidth signals, etc. It is not too far off base to consider "upsampling" as a surrogate for ALL of the processing differences between the AVM 50v and the D2v.



Are you saying faster clocks and chips in the D2v vs other products on the market, or in comparison with the AVM50v? Since the AVM50v handles 192kHz audio, I'd expect it to cost the same as the D2v wrt clocks, chips, component and signal layout choices. The D2v may well use 192 kHz all the time as a result of the upsampler, but I would assume the AVM50v has to work equally well when 192 kHz is active.


----------



## Big Tex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15540105
> 
> 
> Sorry if this is something you already covered. I found info on your speakers, but have you mentioned the room setup? Might you have an accurate diagram of the room/speakers/seating/mic locations? I'd like to have a look at it.



Thanks for offering to help Roger. I'll take some measurement and pictures tomorrow and post them. This is killing me.


Thanks for offering to assist! Several people have emailed me and offered to help. Thanks to everyone!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15548838
> 
> 
> Ever since I have had ARC, my room gain has always been zero. So, I force it between 2.5 and 3.5. Is that really a bad thing to do since ARC did not automatic create a room gain? I have seen the results of many people's measurements. Some of them look better than mine and some of them do not; but, all of them have room gain. I'm puzzled by that. I guess I will send my ARC File to Anthem Tech Support to see if they can see what's really causing ARC to not generate any room gain for me.



Typically this happens because ARC can not detect the natural Room Gain of your room -- usually because there is a significant dip in the LF/RF response near the crossovers. Since a negative Room Gain makes no sense, ARC uses 0 instead.


Room Gain is a "room response". The difference is that listeners generally react well to retaining the natural Room Gain of their listening room, so it is a DESIREABLE room response. The whole idea is that ARC will try to detect your room's natural Room Gain and retain it, even as ARC is working diligently to eliminate all the UNdesirable room response characteristics of your room.


Lack of Room Gain can make the audio sound a little dead, as in an anechoic chamber. Since it is unlikely you are actually listening in an anechoic chamber, if ARC is using a 0 Room Gain, or a very low Room Gain, it certainly wouldn't hurt to push that up. On the charts, Room Gain shows up as the hump in the target curves near the crossover frequencies.


A lot of folks here are getting Room Gain's in the 3 to 4 dB range. If ARC is finding 0 for your room, then I suggest you try forcing that up a ways and see if you like it better -- 2 to 2.5 dB might be a good place to start. Note that if you have ARC generate separate Movie and Music configurations, then you can force a different Room Gain for each. Some folks think a lower Room Gain is better for Music.


Getting a good match for Room Gain means the audio from your system will sound as natural in your room as other things you hear in the room such as voices from people in the room.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15549214
> 
> 
> Are you saying faster clocks and chips in the D2v vs other products on the market, or in comparison with the AVM50v? Since the AVM50v handles 192kHz audio, I'd expect it to cost the same as the D2v wrt clocks, chips, component and signal layout choices. The D2v may well use 192 kHz all the time as a result of the upsampler, but I would assume the AVM50v has to work equally well when 192 kHz is active.



My understanding is that the internals of the AVM 50v run at a lower clock rate than what is used in the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/15549136
> 
> 
> Interesting article on Engadget about Anthem partnering with JVC to provide an HTIB which would presumably contain an AVM or statement pre pro and a JVC projector rebranded under Anthem's brand.
> 
> http://www.engadgethd.com/2009/01/13...igh-end-htibs/



This should be fun! I'm wondering though if there might be stigma attached to buying a prepackaged bundle like this. Folks might feel they have to turn up their collars or otherwise conceal their faces when leaving the store.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15550224
> 
> 
> Typically this happens because ARC can not detect the natural Room Gain of your room -- usually because there is a significant dip in the LF/RF response near the crossovers. Since a negative Room Gain makes no sense, ARC uses 0 instead.
> 
> 
> Room Gain is a "room response". The difference is that listeners generally react well to retaining the natural Room Gain of their listening room, so it is a DESIREABLE room response. The whole idea is that ARC will try to detect your room's natural Room Gain and retain it, even as ARC is working diligently to eliminate all the UNdesirable room response characteristics of your room.
> 
> 
> Lack of Room Gain can make the audio sound a little dead, as in an anechoic chamber. Since it is unlikely you are actually listening in an anechoic chamber, if ARC is using a 0 Room Gain, or a very low Room Gain, it certainly wouldn't hurt to push that up. On the charts, Room Gain shows up as the hump in the target curves near the crossover frequencies.
> 
> 
> A lot of folks here are getting Room Gain's in the 3 to 4 dB range. If ARC is finding 0 for your room, then I suggest you try forcing that up a ways and see if you like it better -- 2 to 2.5 dB might be a good place to start. Note that if you have ARC generate separate Movie and Music configurations, then you can force a different Room Gain for each. Some folks think a lower Room Gain is better for Music.
> 
> 
> Getting a good match for Room Gain means the audio from your system will sound as natural in your room as other things you hear in the room such as voices from people in the room.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Why would ARC give a 3.9 for movies and 0 for music. If it found the room gain for movies, what prevented it from doing the same for music. Recently I have been getting this result. I have moved music to 2.5. It sounds great but I am curious as to why this happens in the same room.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15551691
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Why would ARC give a 3.9 for movies and 0 for music. If it found the room gain for movies, what prevented it from doing the same for music. Recently I have been getting this result. I have moved music to 2.5. It sounds great but I am curious as to why this happens in the same room.
> 
> John



Apparently it is using data from the surrounds you include in the Movie configuration but not in the Music configuration.


Or it is a bug in the "test" V1.2.14 stuff. Check your Measured curves for differences between those speakers near the crossover frequencies to see if there really is that much difference. Really the only way to find out whether this is a valid result based on your Measurements is to email the results file to Nick at Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I checked the charts and there is no difference in the curve near the crossover points. As we have agreed on before, listening is the true test and it does sound great with a 2.5 forced gain.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15554560
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I checked the charts and there is no difference in the curve near the crossover points. As we have agreed on before, listening is the true test and it does sound great with a 2.5 forced gain.
> 
> John



Well my Room Gain with V1.2.14 (Measured using V1.2.13) is about 0.8dB below what V1.2.5 used -- And Music is below Movie although still above 2dB.


And to my eye the Measured curves near the crossover are the same with the V1.2.5 and the V1.2.13 Measurements. So either something has changed in the way they detect Room Gain or there is a bug in the "test" stuff -- Nick has my files.


Nevertheless, I'm using ARC's detected Room Gain values unchanged in V1.2.14 and it sounds awesome, so something right seems to be going on.

--Bob


----------



## ricardofeitoza

Dear friends


I know that most of people will tell me to go audition these options but i really would appreciate to have your opnion on this.


I m upgrading from a Denon 3808 CI to the D2.


My speakers are all Paradigm Studio series V.4


Front: Studio 100

Center: CC-690

Surrounds: ADP-590


1 Option:Bryston


Get the 9B SST 140Wx5 for the surrounds/Center and the 4B SST 2x300W for the Studios 100.


2 Option:Anthem


Get the A5 225Wx5 for the Surrounds/Center and the A2 for the Studios 100


Questions:


1- What s a better match for the D2 and the Studios?


2- Can the Studio 100 handle the power of the 4B SST because the specs say 210W for the maximum input power and 15-350 for suitable amplifier power range?


3- Can the Surrounds ADP-590 handle the power of the A5 because the specs say 130W for the maximum input power and 15-180 for suitable amplifier power range?



Thanks in advance for all the help


Rick


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ricardofeitoza* /forum/post/15555207
> 
> 
> Dear friends
> 
> 
> I know that most of people will tell me to go audition these options but i really would appreciate to have your opnion on this.
> 
> 
> I m upgrading from a Denon 3808 CI to the D2.
> 
> 
> My speakers are all Paradigm Studio series V.4
> 
> 
> Front: Studio 100
> 
> Center: CC-690
> 
> Surrounds: ADP-590
> 
> 
> 1 Option:Bryston
> 
> 
> Get the 9B SST 140Wx5 for the surrounds/Center and the 4B SST 2x300W for the Studios 100.
> 
> 
> 2 Option:Anthem
> 
> 
> Get the A5 225Wx5 for the Surrounds/Center and the A2 for the Studios 100
> 
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 
> 1- What s a better match for the D2 and the Studios?
> 
> 
> 2- Can the Studio 100 handle the power of the 4B SST because the specs say 210W for the maximum input power and 15-350 for suitable amplifier power range?
> 
> 
> 3- Can the Surrounds ADP-590 handle the power of the A5 because the specs say 130W for the maximum input power and 15-180 for suitable amplifier power range?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for all the help
> 
> 
> Rick



Rick,

I have new studio 100s and a CC-690. My surrounds are PSB dipoles. Fronts run off of A2 and the rest off of A5. Not a problem so far and volume has reached high levels at times. The paradigm surrounds can handle more power than my PSBs so I believe you will be fine. I saw how Paradigm tests speakers and it reduced my concerns immediately. I can't speak for the Bryston as I have no experience with them. I am using the AVM50, but that should be irrelevant for the power concerns to speakers.

John


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ricardofeitoza* /forum/post/15555207
> 
> 
> Dear friends
> 
> 
> I know that most of people will tell me to go audition these options but i really would appreciate to have your opnion on this.
> 
> 
> I m upgrading from a Denon 3808 CI to the D2.
> 
> 
> My speakers are all Paradigm Studio series V.4
> 
> 
> Front: Studio 100
> 
> Center: CC-690
> 
> Surrounds: ADP-590
> 
> 
> 1 Option:Bryston
> 
> 
> Get the 9B SST 140Wx5 for the surrounds/Center and the 4B SST 2x300W for the Studios 100.
> 
> 
> 2 Option:Anthem
> 
> 
> Get the A5 225Wx5 for the Surrounds/Center and the A2 for the Studios 100
> 
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 
> 1- What s a better match for the D2 and the Studios?
> 
> 
> 2- Can the Studio 100 handle the power of the 4B SST because the specs say 210W for the maximum input power and 15-350 for suitable amplifier power range?
> 
> 
> 3- Can the Surrounds ADP-590 handle the power of the A5 because the specs say 130W for the maximum input power and 15-180 for suitable amplifier power range?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for all the help
> 
> 
> Rick



Rick, I'm running a D2, Paradigm Studio 100v3, CC570, ADP 590v4, Servo 15v2 and a Bryston 9bST. Oh and when I got D2 I just happened to use it to replace the 3808ci!










The Paradigm V3 and V4 speakers are very close. My 9bST is 120 by five where the 9bSST is 140. I don't think you'll have any problems at all with the 9bSST. I've pushed my 9b as far as it will go and haven't damaged my speakers at all. I'm getting a 4bSST as soon as I go to 7.1. (need the D2v upgrade first) Again I don't think blowing the 100v3's will be an issue. I’ll likely blow my ears first.


Now I caught crap for saying this in another thread but Rick, prepare to be wowed. The difference between what you will see and hear with the D2 compared to what you have with the 3808ic is night and day. *THAT'S RIGHT I SAID NIGHT AND DAY, WHAT ARE YA GOING TO DO ABOUT IT?* That bold stuff wasn't directed towards you Rick. It was meant to rattle the chains of the night and day haters here at AVS. There's a noticeable difference Rick. I was surprised by how noticeable it was. The last time I remember seeing such a noticeable difference in my theater was when I replaced a SD TV with a plasma.


Anyway, it's a real treat and you'll be blown away. In my opinion you'll love the D2 when paired with a Bryston (or two







). I know the 4bSSt is a beast so you may want to be careful taking it up to reference levels but it'll be fantastic. Put it this way, I recently watched The Dark Knight with my 120 x 5 9bST at nine above reference... (beacuse reference levels would be crazy) The soundstage was perfect (in my opinion, compared to what it was) and my ears rung like I was at a rock concert for two hours after. It'll be crazy loud and crazy accurate sounding.


3:10 to Yuma... when the train pulls into (forget the name of the town, it starts with a C) it sounds like a freaking train in pulling into your theater. A big f-ing train!


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15556261
> 
> 
> I'll likely blow my ears first.



Blowing speakers is normally due to using underpowered amplifiers that you overdrive into distortion, which damages the speakers.


You are safer having amplifiers that can provide power ratings above the speakers power ratings.


As was said above, with the speakers and equipment you are contemplating using you will most likely damage your ears before you damage the speakers.


You might also want to consider Emotiva, which is an AVSForum advertiser. I have personally not heard them and don't know how they mate with a D2 and Paradigm, but they have received very positive reviews.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I have a P5 (325 watt x 5) pushing Studio 100 V3, there is no such thing as too much power, you might not be able to use all the power you have, but that is not too much strictly speaking. Just not cost effective.  Pushing an amp too hard and sending a distorted signal to the speaker is the typical cause of speaker damage. Based on what I have read about the amps you mention both would do fine. I listened to a A5 before I bought the P5. The difference was probably more that I wanted the P5 so that I would not have to upgrade if I got some Maggies than any real difference in sound quality. Have never heard the Bryston.


I listened to some Denon units before getting my D1, my money is on you liking the change.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ricardofeitoza* /forum/post/15555207
> 
> 
> Dear friends
> 
> 
> I know that most of people will tell me to go audition these options but i really would appreciate to have your opnion on this.
> 
> 
> I m upgrading from a Denon 3808 CI to the D2.
> 
> 
> My speakers are all Paradigm Studio series V.4
> 
> 
> Front: Studio 100
> 
> Center: CC-690
> 
> Surrounds: ADP-590
> 
> 
> 1 Option:Bryston
> 
> 
> Get the 9B SST 140Wx5 for the surrounds/Center and the 4B SST 2x300W for the Studios 100.
> 
> 
> 2 Option:Anthem
> 
> 
> Get the A5 225Wx5 for the Surrounds/Center and the A2 for the Studios 100
> 
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 
> 1- What s a better match for the D2 and the Studios?
> 
> 
> 2- Can the Studio 100 handle the power of the 4B SST because the specs say 210W for the maximum input power and 15-350 for suitable amplifier power range?
> 
> 
> 3- Can the Surrounds ADP-590 handle the power of the A5 because the specs say 130W for the maximum input power and 15-180 for suitable amplifier power range?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for all the help
> 
> 
> Rick


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15556512
> 
> 
> Blowing speakers is normally due to using underpowered amplifiers that you overdrive into distortion, which damages the speakers.
> 
> 
> You are safer having amplifiers that can provide power ratings above the speakers power ratings.
> 
> 
> As was said above, with the speakers and equipment you are contemplating using you will most likely damage your ears before you damage the speakers.
> 
> 
> You might also want to consider Emotiva, which is an AVSForum advertiser. I have personally not heard them and don't know how they mate with a D2 and Paradigm, but they have received very positive reviews.



I have the mps-2 paired with my D2 and I couldnt be happier. Sound is natural and my speakers just sing with it.


----------



## bravo36

Greetings! New poster on this forum, but avid follower of Anthem AVM 50.


Not sure if this is news to you guys or not, but I just spoke with *_* in Anthem Tech Support, and he indicated that the new software was completed only yesterday. He said that manufacturing of the new units had begun with that completion, and new units should be available within 2-3 weeks.


He also indicated that introductory pricing for the new 50v would be the same as the price for the old 50 for a short time FWIW.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks for the info! And welcome to the Cool Kids Thread.










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" ARC V1.2.16 Now Up on the Password Protected Download Page*


"Test" ARC version V1.2.16 has now appeared on Anthem's password protected download page. I've no idea what's changed in this one as the release notes don't give any info beyond V1.2.14. (NOTE: V1.2.15 was never offered for download.)


For quick reference, here are the change notes, such as they are, for changes newer than what's in the current "official" ARC version v1.2.5:



> Quote:
> Changes:
> 
> 
> v1.2.14:
> 
> 
> 1. Works with D2v.
> 
> 
> 
> v1.2.12:
> 
> 
> 1. Change to how sub crossover frequency is selected to address cases where the sub is a lot closer to the listener than the center channel, causing dialog to be heard from the sub if its crossover was set high enough.
> 
> 
> 2. More settings available for configurations not using a subwoofer. Note that while the front channels will be set to Large in the setup menu, ARC will still create a low frequency contour on the room correction target based on response at those frequencies. This cutoff frequency, displayed in the Targets panel, is separate from the bass manager's crossover.
> 
> 
> 3. The Targets panel also has options for setting the processor's bass manager to run channels at full range. These are best left unchecked, especially for surround channels since surround speakers are usually smaller.
> 
> 
> 4. Selecting Rears for measurement is not allowed if Surrounds are unselected. (In a 5.1 system use Surround channels, not Rears.)
> 
> 
> 5. Improved measurement at very low frequencies. Since this relates to frequencies below the lowest note on a bass guitar, it may not make a difference depending on existing in-room response.
> 
> 
> 6. Improved measurement at very high frequencies.
> 
> 
> If you have a file measured with a v1.2 ARC release, no remeasurement is necessary to obtain the above. To convert the file format just open the file with the latest version of ARC, calculate, and upload.



For any newbies: "Test" software is unfinished software. Anthem tech support sometimes makes "test" software available to folks dealing with specific problems, or to allow pre-release testing by a wider audience. The password to the site comes from Anthem tech support. "Test" software may contain unpleasant surprises, so you should only use it if directed to do so by Anthem tech support or if you are avidly interested in testing new, and possibly incorrect, software, and understand and accept the risks of doing that.

--Bob


----------



## davidhoenig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15470883
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> I called Harmony support and had them whip me up a set of those 3 key source selectors as additional "input" definitions. Since that brought the list of input selectors to more than 8 I can't go into the input definition page of their configuration stuff myself anymore without losing some, but no matter as its set up correctly now and there's nothing I need to do in that page.
> 
> 
> In the activities and the device page, I just reference any of the definitions they've set for me just like referencing the normal inputs (such as the original "DVD" which cycles through the overlayed stuff). I.e., there is now a named "DVD1" (etc.) which results in the correct 3 key code being sent.
> 
> 
> This was done by level two support and should be available to them for your use in their database of Harmony 880 stuff for the D2 (which should apply just fine to the One). When you call Harmony support, just let the level one person know that you need some special input selection definitions added (which the level one guys can't do) and ask them to put you in the queue to level two support. Tell level two you need some additional input selection definitions added that each transmit a set of 3 key commands. And let them know that they've already done this for an 880 user for his D2 setup so they can look in the database for "DVD1", "DVD2" etc., and perhaps save themselves some time.
> 
> 
> One problem I had was that the first try they did resulted in an "input selection delay" after each transmitted key press, which meant the D2 timed out before it saw all 3 key presses. It is easy to see this happening if you watch the on screen display while trying it. I also had a problem on an Activity change where a power off command for a source device was being transmitted after the first of the input selector keys (as if the input selection was already completed) -- which meant there was a power change delay that happened before the 2nd and 3rd keys -- and again the D2 timed out before seeing them. Again this was easy to see happening on screen (while also keeping an eye on the power down and power up of the sources).
> 
> 
> But Harmony level two support is great and they just kept at it until they got it right.
> 
> 
> I suggest you have them enter definitions now for ALL of those direct access input selectors for you, even if you only intend to use a few of them at the moment.
> 
> --Bob



Bob -


Just wanted to let you know I was finally able to get my Harmony One working. Logitech customer support wasn't really reading my emails thoroughly and it wasn't until I *demanded* they stop wasting both our time and just copy the settings on your account that I got things worked out.


For anyone out there with a Harmony and a D2, just ask them to replicate the device settings from Bob's account and Logitech will do it. You might get some initial pushback, but they will eventually follow your instructions.


Thanks again Bob!

Dave


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/15563156
> 
> 
> Bob -
> 
> 
> Just wanted to let you know I was finally able to get my Harmony One working. Logitech customer support wasn't really reading my emails thoroughly and it wasn't until I *demanded* they stop wasting both our time and just copy the settings on your account that I got things worked out.
> 
> 
> For anyone out there with a Harmony and a D2, just ask them to replicate the device settings from Bob's account and Logitech will do it. You might get some initial pushback, but they will eventually follow your instructions.
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob!
> 
> Dave




Just tried this version, and ran into an error while uploading my settings to my D1


It get's all the way thru, then, just at end when it verifies everything, I get an error message..


Tried several time with no luck..


Going back to xx.14 version for now...










Fun anyway...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dave,

I'm glad you got your Harmony One working! I didn't even know you could deal with them by email.


For anyone else with Harmony issues, I recommend you find a time when you can set aside a couple hours and CALL them. There will be a short discussion with level one (who can't really handle most D2 related issues), then they'll put you in the phone queue with level two -- which may take a few minutes, and then you'll be on the phone with a human who really can help you.


I've dealt with their level two people many times over the years and they have been great. There's actually another level of people beyond them who can program completely custom database changes, but you don't get on the phone with them. Once you are in phone contact with level two they will stay on with you as long as necessary -- even while you update the remote and test it. Or if they have to get the programmers to whip up something special for you they will call you back when it is ready to try.


Supposedly all the fixes they gen up for customers using specific devices will find their way into the database entries for those devices, but I don't know how long that takes. And to get the latest database entry you have to delete the device from your configuration and enter it afresh -- which can be a nuisance if you've got custom stuff you have set up. But level two can pull over the key codes from the latest database entry for you one at a time so you don't have to do that.

--Bob


----------



## Krops

To take advantage of the new ARC release, do I need to remeasure? I have measurement data from 1.2.5. The release notes indicate no but wanted to double-check. Thanks.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/15563419
> 
> 
> Just tried this version, and ran into an error while uploading my settings to my D1
> 
> 
> It get's all the way thru, then, just at end when it verifies everything, I get an error message..
> 
> 
> Tried several time with no luck..
> 
> 
> Going back to xx.14 version for now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fun anyway...



Got the same result with my AVM 50. Gets close to the end of uploading and then unit shuts off and then error comes up. Have restarted laptop and shutdown Anthem by back panel. No luck even then.

John

ps. will email Nick


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/15563507
> 
> 
> To take advantage of the new ARC release, do I need to remeasure? I have measurement data from 1.2.5. The release notes indicate no but wanted to double-check. Thanks.



you might be wasting your time remeasuring given the upload problem two of us have had. I've emailed Nick at Anthem so I am waiting before I do anything more.

John


----------



## Krops




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15563813
> 
> 
> you might be wasting your time remeasuring given the upload problem two of us have had. I've emailed Nick at Anthem so I am waiting before I do anything more.



Phew - thought it was something on my end - having the same upload problem. Tried 2 machines; 1 with straight serial cable and 1 using a USB adapter.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/15563507
> 
> 
> To take advantage of the new ARC release, do I need to remeasure? I have measurement data from 1.2.5. The release notes indicate no but wanted to double-check. Thanks.



The original release notes for V1.2.12 said you could use V1.2.5 Measurements, but that to get the full advantage of the new stuff you should re-Measure.


That comment in the V1.2.12 notes was deleted when the V1.2.13 release notes vanished and were replaced with V1.2.14 release notes. The current notes say you can use any V1.2.x Measurements just as you stated.


I'm currently using V1.2.13 Measurements, Calculated and Uploaded using V1.2.14.


It's not really clear whether some of the problems folks have been having with the "test" software are due to issues in re-Measurement or in the Calculations based on any Measurements.


--------------------------------------------------------


When the new version finally becomes "official", my recommendation will be that people re-Measure just to be sure everything is as up to date as possible.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krops* /forum/post/15564286
> 
> 
> Phew - thought it was something on my end - having the same upload problem. Tried 2 machines; 1 with straight serial cable and 1 using a USB adapter.



Welcome to the wonderful world of "test" software.


My guess is they added a fix for the D2v and it broke something for the AVM 50 (and possibly for the D2).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15563524
> 
> 
> Got the same result with my AVM 50. Gets close to the end of uploading and then unit shuts off and then error comes up. Have restarted laptop and shutdown Anthem by back panel. No luck even then.
> 
> John
> 
> ps. will email Nick



Do post when you hear back from Nick. I'm going to hold off trying V1.2.16 until we get some word back of what's up here.

--Bob


----------



## ricardofeitoza

Jayray- you have a similar setup it s good to know it works good.


~Ohdee~ - What a coincidence!!! I also have a Servo 15 V.2









I love the Bryston`s Warranty!


dlynch34 - I ll have a look on them!


CycloneMike- Thanks for the quick explanation


video_bit_bucket - That is a lot of power!!! Thanks for replying


I still would like to hear more experiences!!!


Thanks to all and have a great day!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Using the better of my two sets of V1.2.13 Measurements, I did an Auto Detect in V1.2.16 and then a re-Calculation at 20KHz.


As best I can tell the resulting Target values, and the resulting Target and Calculated curves are identical to what I already had with V1.2.13 and V1.2.14.


I'm going to hold off Uploading until we hear back from Nick.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

My results with 1.2.1.6 showed smoother high end. All else was essentially the same. Measurement again put my Studio 100s at 140 cutoff. Can't seem to get an answer from Paradigm or anthem.

John


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15565265
> 
> 
> My results with 1.2.1.6 showed smoother high end. All else was essentially the same. Measurement again put my Studio 100s at 140 cutoff. Can't seem to get an answer from Paradigm or anthem.
> 
> John



Hello,,I just went into link 7 and found V2.0.0 for the arc, is 1.2.1.6 gone already?


----------



## jayray

Nick told me that 2.0 is now test version. Works with D2V and also earlier models like most of ours







He said the uploading glitch is fixed.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*As Jayray and Donloz stated, "test" ARC version V2.0.0 is now up on Anthem's password protected download page.*


The release notes have not been updated -- they still end with V1.2.14 as quoted a few posts above.


The ARC V2.0.0 download folder also now includes the D2v user manual. Presumably when you install it, you now get the D2v manual as one of the choices for the manual to be installed. ETA: Confirmed. You have your choice of one of 3 manuals now (AVM 40/50, D2, or D2v -- still no AVM 50v choice).


ETA 2: The "About" choice in the Help menu identifies this version as just "v2.0".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Once again, using the better of my two sets of V1.2.13 Measurements, I did an Auto Detect in "test" ARC V2.0.0, and then a Calculation at 20KHz.


The resulting Targets values, and the resulting Targets and Calculated curves continue to look identical to what I got with ARC V1.2.13, V1.2.14, and today with V1.2.16.


I'm going to go do an Upload in a few minutes.


ETA: The Upload into my D2 worked just fine. Crossovers and Speaker Levels are the same as I was getting with V1.2.13 and V1.2.14. Preliminary listening tests are all positive.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For those using the 3 key remote control combos listed in Appendix A of the user manual, here's an addition to the D2v manual that's newer than the draft version DRHANKZ and I posted.


From Nick:



> Quote:
> Added THX, 6, 0 and THX, 6, 1 to set 7.1 sources to None and THX Cinema.



--Bob


----------



## jayray

Did some new measurements with ARC 2.0 and despite the high cutoffs for my fronts the music sounds very detailed, sound stage is deeper and bass is tight. I'm trusting ARC this time with the cutoffs and will test movie config. tomorrow. Graphs are smoother all the way up to 20K. Best looking graphs so far.

John


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15565500
> 
> 
> Nick told me that 2.0 is now test version. Works with D2V and also earlier models like most of ours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He said the uploading glitch is fixed.
> 
> John




I can confirm










Glitch now gone...







Installed perfect...



Just a strange observation:


I had measurement from 1.2.12 and loaded them into this new ARC, and did the auto thing.. The sub crossover was 90hz..



I then loaded my measurements from 1.2.14 and the sub now was set to 110hz for crossover..



Very strange, as the measured graphs were somewhat the same..










Anyway, have to HEAR the the ARC and see how it is..


----------



## AbMagFab

So what are people hearing from their dealers about when this is actually available for my hot little hands?


My main dealer went OOB, so I called another local dealer and he said 3 weeks? That doesn't sound right, as I thought there were supposed to ship next week?


Is there any good info out there?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15568542
> 
> 
> So what are people hearing from their dealers about when this is actually available for my hot little hands?
> 
> 
> My main dealer went OOB, so I called another local dealer and he said 3 weeks? That doesn't sound right, as I thought there were supposed to ship next week?
> 
> 
> Is there any good info out there?



No confirmation yet but you should preorder the unit now.

They are already taking preorder and backlog is increasing. If you want to increase your chance of getting a quick delivery this is the way to go.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15569893
> 
> 
> No confirmation yet but you should preorder the unit now.
> 
> They are already taking preorder and backlog is increasing. If you want to increase your chance of getting a quick delivery this is the way to go.



Are dealers taking pre-orders for upgrades?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15570007
> 
> 
> Are dealers taking pre-orders for upgrades?



I don't know?


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15570007
> 
> 
> Are dealers taking pre-orders for upgrades?



No, there is no firm pricing for the upgrades yet delivered to dealers, so Anthem is not taking upgrade pre-orders yet.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Spent a lot of time listening to my "test" ARC V2.0.0 20KHz Upload last night (derived from V1.2.13 Measurements). I can't tell any difference from what I got using V1.2.14 based on the same V1.2.13 Measurements -- i.e., the results are exceptionally good in V2.0.0, but no different from what V1.2.14 produced.


As I said before, as good as things are sounding now, I'll probably wait to re-Measure until this version becomes "official".


-------------------------------------------


The "test" ARC V2.0.0 install folder includes a version or the D2v manual that has a few updates from the version DRHANKZ and I posted above. For example the Connections section now says the HDMI inputs accept up to 8 channel LPCM instead of up to 6 channel LPCM. I haven't spotted any major changes. And the manual is not quite done yet. For example Appendix A does not yet include the two added 3-key remote combos for 7.1 input.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I was told by my dealer no preorders yet for upgrades.

John.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Past practice in the Anthem Statement line has been that upgrades became orderable about 4 to 6 weeks after new products began SHIPPING (i.e., not from when they accepted pre-orders for new products, but from when those products actually shipped).


Past practice in the AVM line has been that the delay was even longer -- a few months.


Now Nick told me last October that this time they were targeting having both the D2v and AVM 50v first shipments at the same time, and targeting upgrades to the D2v and AVM 50v to be orderable and available at the time new products actually started shipping. So they are working on eliminating those time gaps. But we'll just have to see how effective they are at doing that.


I'm not sure what the holdup is in setting pricing on the upgrades. But at a guess, they are trying to figure out all the combos: Folks with/without current ARC licenses, folks who want new front panels or don't care, folks who want power supply swap outs or who don't care or don't need it, etc. I doubt they will actually offer all those combos, but they are probably sorting through the possibilities to decide what to offer. They also need to be sure they are set up to track how the warranties change for upgraded units to track the parts actually replaced during the upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Release Notes now Added for "Test" ARC V2.0.0*


The release notes have just been updated in the install folder for "test" ARC version V2.0.0 on Anthem's password protected download page. Changes from the current, "official" version V1.2.5 read as follows:



> Quote:
> Changes:
> 
> 
> v2.0.0:
> 
> 
> 1. Added ARC to D2v and AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> 2. Change to how sub crossover frequency is selected to address cases where the sub is a lot closer to the listener than the center channel, causing dialog to be heard from the sub if its crossover was set high enough.
> 
> 
> 3. More settings available for configurations not using a subwoofer. Note that while the front channels will be set to Large in the setup menu, ARC will still create a low frequency contour on the room correction target based on response at those frequencies. This cutoff frequency, displayed in the Targets panel, is separate from the bass manager's crossover.
> 
> 
> 4. The Targets panel also has options for setting the processor's bass manager to run channels at full range. These are best left unchecked, especially for surround channels since surround speakers are usually smaller.
> 
> 
> 5. Selecting Rears for measurement is not allowed if Surrounds are unselected. (In a 5.1 system use Surround channels, not Rears.)
> 
> 
> 6. Improved measurement at very low frequencies. Since this relates to frequencies below the lowest note on a bass guitar, it may not make a difference depending on existing in-room response.
> 
> 
> 7. Improved measurement at very high frequencies.
> 
> 
> If you have a file measured with ARC v1.2 to v1.2.5, remeasurement is not necessary. To convert the file format just open the file with the latest version of ARC, calculate, and upload. If you are uploading a file created for an AVM 40, AVM 50, D1, or D2 to an AVM 50v or D2v, ARC will ask for confirmation that you want to convert the file for use with the newer model.



--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15569893
> 
> 
> No confirmation yet but you should preorder the unit now.
> 
> They are already taking preorder and backlog is increasing. If you want to increase your chance of getting a quick delivery this is the way to go.



Sounds like hype. I can't imagine a $7K pre-pro has that much of a demand.


I asked my local dealer if he had any pre-orders, and he said I was the first person who asked him about it. He is one of two dealers in my entire state, and one of four dealers in the entire DC-metro area (and two of those dealers are a disaster).


Given that the economy here is probably better than most (Fed Gov't and all), I seriously doubt there's a major backlog. Unless of course they're only making 2 of them a month.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The original D2 was backordered for well over a year, and then periodically thereafter.


The D2v is probably going to see some pent-up demand from folks who held off buying a unit until it shipped.


In the past, Anthem has alternated production runs for the Statement and AVM lines, which meant you could face a one month manufacturing delay if you happened to order at the wrong time.


It will be interesting to see how the economy affects the Anthem stuff. It is a luxury item, but, relative to "high end" home theater stuff, a rather inexpensive luxury. I don't have any data to back this up, but I think Anthem may luck out and be in a niche price point for folks with money who still want to make a "smart" purchase. In that light, I think the economy will hit the cheaper AVM 50v product harder.

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

Alright,


This might have been answered already but I couldnt find it. I have the toshiba hd a 30 hd dvd player and for whatever reason I get no sound from it. I am using hdmi and I have messed with all the setting in the player, and tried using auto on all possibilities even in the d2 to detect things and I have a great picture but no audio. My ps3 and dish work great, the connections and cables are good, no bent pins or bent pins in the D2. Anyone have this issue before? Thanks, Robert


----------



## metallicafreak

Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone would mind recapping a couple of things for me:

1) what is the current firmware version for the D2

2) does the current or recent versions correct the implementation errors with the gennum chip--when I output 1080p24 from a non-1080p24 source to my Marantz VP-15S1 I get what looks like regular frame drops and a choppy image.

3) What is the hardware upgrade for the D2; what does it add?


I apologize for asking this but I have been out of it for quite some time--law school will do that to you.


Thanks in advance.


FREAK!


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/15549136
> 
> 
> Interesting article on Engadget about Anthem partnering with JVC to provide an HTIB which would presumably contain an AVM or statement pre pro and a JVC projector rebranded under Anthem's brand.
> 
> http://www.engadgethd.com/2009/01/13...igh-end-htibs/



I realize this is off topic, but now we have more info on the Anthem projector and an image:










http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/p...anthem-ltx-500


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *metallicafreak* /forum/post/15575817
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I was wondering if anyone would mind recapping a couple of things for me:
> 
> 1) what is the current firmware version for the D2
> 
> 2) does the current or recent versions correct the implementation errors with the gennum chip--when I output 1080p24 from a non-1080p24 source to my Marantz VP-15S1 I get what looks like regular frame drops and a choppy image.
> 
> 3) What is the hardware upgrade for the D2; what does it add?
> 
> 
> I apologize for asking this but I have been out of it for quite some time--law school will do that to you.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> FREAK!



1) At the moment, V1.33. The released version of ARC at the moment is V1.2.5. I wouldn't be surprised if both of those change to V2.0 and V2.0.0 respectively in the next couple weeks in conjunction with the shipping of the D2v.


2) No. That appears to be an intractable problem with that version of the VXP chip. We are hoping that the new VXP chip in the D2v will not have this problem but that is not yet confirmed. Understand of course that this can only ever work if the source content is recorded at film frame rate (e.g., a filmed movie broadcast on TV).


3) New video/HDMI board. New VXP chip (now made by Sigma Designs who bought the product line from Gennum a year ago). 12 bits per component (36 bits per pixel) video processing path from end to end. HDMI V1.3c inputs and outputs (now with 8 inputs and 2 outputs). HDMI outputs are both live at the same time, but carry only the same video output signal. Supports "Deep Color" HDMI input and output. New DSP (audio processing) board with Anthem designed DSP chips. Ability to input up to 7.1 channels of HDMI LPCM at up to 192KHz/24-bits (analog input remains 5.1) with full audio processing. In addition, ability to decode Dolby TrueHD (and Dolby +) and DTS-HD MA (and DTS-HD HR) bitstreams (again, featuring 7.1, 192/24, and full processing after decoding). New "Dolby Volume" feature coming soon in a firmware upgrade. Bundled with ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More word from Nick on initial D2v video controls:


The new VXP chip has a more sophisticated video noise reduction system than the older one. However the launch firmware for the D2v will hide that under just one "Noise Reduction" slider in the Video Source Adjust menu. Setting the slider to any value above the factory default "0" setting will get a combo of Noise Reduction stuff as pre-determined by the Anthem engineers. Nick expects that this will be broken out into separate controls in future firmware for folks who would prefer to fiddle with the pieces separately.


[As an aside, I've never found the Noise Reduction in the D2 all that useful. If the content is bad enough to need Noise Reduction it seems to me to be better to just live with it rather than trying to mask the noise. After a variety of experiments, my Noise Reduction slider has been left permanently at the factory default value of 0. As is also true with audio, better quality audio and video setups make crappy content more evident -- live with it or don't play that type of content. It will be interesting to see how the new processing in the D2v alters that equation.]

--Bob


----------



## Bill Mac

Will Anthem offer the ARC upgrade for the AVM 30? On the Anthem site it only shows the upgrade for the AVM 40/50. I did not know if it would be available in the future. My apologies if this has been asked before.


Bill


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bill,

Apparently there is a hardware limitation such that they can't pair the replacement DSP board (required for the AVM ARC upgrade) with the mother board of the AVM-30. I doubt that is likely to change as it would likely require replacing the AVM-30 mother board as well.


That means you would need to upgrade the AVM-30 to an AVM-50, at which point you could also add ARC.


Of course at this point you might be better off selling the AVM-30 and buying a new AVM 50v, which comes bundled with ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bill Mac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15576778
> 
> 
> Bill,
> 
> Apparently there is a hardware limitation such that they can't pair the replacement DSP board (required for the AVM ARC upgrade) with the mother board of the AVM-30. I doubt that is likely to change as it would likely require replacing the AVM-30 mother board as well.
> 
> 
> That means you would need to upgrade the AVM-30 to an AVM-50, at which point you could also add ARC.
> 
> 
> Of course at this point you might be better off selling the AVM-30 and buying a new AVM 50v, which comes bundled with ARC.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks for your help







! I had a AVM 30 and sold it which I regret at times. But I am thinking of buying another as I really liked the SQ (2CH/HT) and it's flexiability. It is too bad it is not possible with the AVM 30 as the cost of the ARC upgrade ($500.00 ?) is very reasonable.


Thanks again, Bill


----------



## metallicafreak

Thanks Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The "test" ARC V2.0.0 install folder has been updated again this morning.


As far as I can tell, the only change is that the release notes text file for the RS-232 commands found in there has been updated to reflect the changes that appeared yesterday in the XL spreadsheet defining the RS-232 commands (also found in there). The changes reflect the addition of the D2v and AVM 50v models (bitstream and 7.1 LPCM data formats).

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Bob

Do you have any info on sending the D2 to Anthem for the upgrade. I am leaving for vacation in a week, and will be gone 5 weeks. This would be a perfect time to send it in. I have sent Nick an email, and have yet to receive a response.

Gerry


----------



## Whitl

 Attachment 130091 


In setting up an ATI card in an HTPC I have several options releated to pixel fromat as shown in the attachement, perhaps someone could advise which would be the best option for the D2


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/15580188
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> Do you have any info on sending the D2 to Anthem for the upgrade. I am leaving for vacation in a week, and will be gone 5 weeks. This would be a perfect time to send it in. I have sent Nick an email, and have yet to receive a response.
> 
> Gerry



I doubt they will begin the upgrade program before February. Pricing for the upgrade has not been finalized yet either.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/15580274
> 
> Attachment 130091
> 
> 
> In setting up an ATI card in an HTPC I have several options releated to pixel fromat as shown in the attachement, perhaps someone could advise which would be the best option for the D2



I don't have an HTPC setup and don't know this card (don't know whether it has any unique issues), but in general if the card is going to be used for home theater stuff (playing movies) you should start with YCbCr 4:4:4 for an HDMI to HDMI connection.


After you are familiar with how that looks, then try an experiment with YCbCr 4:2:2 output. Separately calibrate the video levels for that output and see if the results look better.


For an explanation of the video data formats and why YCbCr 4:2:2 *MIGHT* work better for you, see the Technology and Terminology posts linked in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Whitl

Thanks again Bob, will read the tech info!


It is an ATI 3870 with a DVI with HDMI dongle connected, then an HDMI cable to the D2.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15580510
> 
> 
> I doubt they will begin the upgrade program before February. Pricing for the upgrade has not been finalized yet either.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I suspect that February for upgrades may be overly optomistic.


I would surmise that Anthem will likley need to be sure that the existing D2v2 units are generally working properly across the board, before undertaking D2 upgrades.


Just my thoughts, with no accurate insider information. I do know that until the new D2v2 units are released, that we are all guessing as to when Anthem will open up the upgrade program(s) for existing owners.


----------



## davidhoenig

Here's an interesting one.


I just got a new laptop, an HP HDX-18T (I was lucky enough in my new job to be allowed to choose my own LT). It has an HMDI output and can output both audio and video out via the HMDI output (YES!).


It works great when connected directly to my Mitsbishi HTDV, but it doesn't even recognize that it's connected to ANY display when it's connected directly to my D2.


Given that this is a newly designed model of laptop, I'm going to assume it has an HDMI 1.3c connection, 1.3 at the very least. I'm going to assume this is a handshaking issue between the D2 and my laptop...


I thought the 1.3 spec allowed for compatibility with the the earlier standards? Any thoughts on anything to change on the D2 to perhaps force a connection?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15576447
> 
> 
> More word from Nick on initial D2v video controls:
> 
> 
> The new VXP chip has a more sophisticated video noise reduction system than the older one. However the launch firmware for the D2v will hide that under just one "Noise Reduction" slider in the Video Source Adjust menu. Setting the slider to any value above the factory default "0" setting will get a combo of Noise Reduction stuff as pre-determined by the Anthem engineers. Nick expects that this will be broken out into separate controls in future firmware for folks who would prefer to fiddle with the pieces separately.
> 
> 
> [As an aside, I've never found the Noise Reduction in the D2 all that useful. If the content is bad enough to need Noise Reduction it seems to me to be better to just live with it rather than trying to mask the noise. After a variety of experiments, my Noise Reduction slider has been left permanently at the factory default value of 0. As is also true with audio, better quality audio and video setups make crappy content more evident -- live with it or don't play that type of content. It will be interesting to see how the new processing in the D2v alters that equation.]
> 
> --Bob



This is great. Currently, when I need to reduce noise on a badly encoded DVD, I have to use the noise reduction on my HD DVD player.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/15580274
> 
> Attachment 130091
> 
> 
> In setting up an ATI card in an HTPC I have several options releated to pixel fromat as shown in the attachement, perhaps someone could advise which would be the best option for the D2



I am using the ATI 4670 in my HTPC. Since I am using thi PC only for movies and music playback, no video games, I set the output to YCbCR 4.2.2 to ensure the Software player doesn't manipulate the video. This is better done in the D2.


Furthermore, Since I am using this HTPC to watch mainly European movies (I use a Pioneer 05FD for regio A BDs). I created on the D2 4 Video configuration (1 is 1080p60, 2 is 1080p24, 3 is 1080p25, 4 is 1080p50) and on the ATI side 4 profile that match this.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/15583751
> 
> 
> Here's an interesting one.
> 
> 
> I just got a new laptop, an HP HDX-18T (I was lucky enough in my new job to be allowed to choose my own LT). It has an HMDI output and can output both audio and video out via the HMDI output (YES!).
> 
> 
> It works great when connected directly to my Mitsbishi HTDV, but it doesn't even recognize that it's connected to ANY display when it's connected directly to my D2.
> 
> 
> Given that this is a newly designed model of laptop, I'm going to assume it has an HDMI 1.3c connection, 1.3 at the very least. I'm going to assume this is a handshaking issue between the D2 and my laptop...
> 
> 
> I thought the 1.3 spec allowed for compatibility with the the earlier standards? Any thoughts on anything to change on the D2 to perhaps force a connection?



It should work.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15574024
> 
> 
> Sounds like hype. I can't imagine a $7K pre-pro has that much of a demand.
> 
> 
> I asked my local dealer if he had any pre-orders, and he said I was the first person who asked him about it. He is one of two dealers in my entire state, and one of four dealers in the entire DC-metro area (and two of those dealers are a disaster).
> 
> 
> Given that the economy here is probably better than most (Fed Gov't and all), I seriously doubt there's a major backlog. Unless of course they're only making 2 of them a month.



US Economy is bad but the Canadian one us still going wellfor now. I have a friend who owns a high end audio store and he told me this weekend that he did during Christmas record sales. He could not believe it himself.


You have to realise it is a relatively small production and there is enough peoples that were waiting to it to create a backlog same thing happen with the D2.


It is note hype you do as you wish.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/15583751
> 
> 
> Here's an interesting one.
> 
> 
> I just got a new laptop, an HP HDX-18T (I was lucky enough in my new job to be allowed to choose my own LT). It has an HMDI output and can output both audio and video out via the HMDI output (YES!).
> 
> 
> It works great when connected directly to my Mitsbishi HTDV, but it doesn't even recognize that it's connected to ANY display when it's connected directly to my D2.
> 
> 
> Given that this is a newly designed model of laptop, I'm going to assume it has an HDMI 1.3c connection, 1.3 at the very least. I'm going to assume this is a handshaking issue between the D2 and my laptop...
> 
> 
> I thought the 1.3 spec allowed for compatibility with the the earlier standards? Any thoughts on anything to change on the D2 to perhaps force a connection?



The most common reason for a report like this is simple installation error. Make sure the laptop is connected to the D2 HDMI input jack you think it is connected to and that the Setup > Source Setup device definition you are modifying to use with it is the same one you are selecting as D2 input on the remote when trying to view from the laptop.


In terms of set up values themselves, turn off "Deep Color" output from the laptop if it offers that. Tell the laptop to output YCbCr 4:4:4 data format (at least to start). Double check the output resolution you have set for the laptop.


Some computer graphics cards get confused during the handshake because they change the output resolution too frequently as they start up. A number of folks with home theater PCs have reported good luck using a device from Gefen called "DVI Detective" (I believe they have an HDMI version as well) that sits between the computer and the D2 and that forces the handshake values to fixed settings. This might be worth a try.


In addition, some HDMI source devices do not implement the "repeater processing" part of the HDMI protocol. As soon as they discover they are not directly connected to a TV they just give up. This should not be a problem when connected through the D2, but again the DVI Detective product may help with that.

--Bob


----------



## Whitl

Bob


Maybe you could help shed some light on my problem, as everyone seems to blame the D2. For some reason the D2 and my ATI 3870 card are seeing eye to eye. The D2 always says that the ATI card is sending 1080i but according to ATI the card does not do any scaling it only sends info based upon what the request is from the D2. It does seem to matter what the source is from the HTPC, 480, 720p, 1080p it all shows up as 1080i and according to the EDID data the monitor is a 37.1 " display, which is wrong as it is a Sony 60" sxrd XBR2. I have attached the EDID data that comes back from the D2, maybe you might see something in that no else does.


----------



## zr123

I just called Anthem tech support and they said the D2v has already started shipping and the AVM50v has started production and should start shipping next week.


Does that sound right?


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15596123
> 
> 
> Does that sound right?



Did you think they were lying to you?


Trying to understnad what your question is here.....


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15596304
> 
> 
> Did you think they were lying to you?
> 
> 
> Trying to understnad what your question is here.....



No I don't think they're lying to me, but just because someone works for Anthem doesn't mean that they always have the correct info. I have been asking/calling since November and have always received a different answer.


In all honesty Bob seems to have more accurate info than the fellows at Anthem.


I just wanted to know if anyone else has heard the same regarding the shipping/production of the AVM50v.


----------



## jayray

Given Nick at Anthem has said upgrades to AVM50 will likely start in Feb. perhaps this isn't too far out of the ballpark. I have emailed him to confirm.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15596123
> 
> 
> I just called Anthem tech support and they said the D2v has already started shipping and the AVM50v has started production and should start shipping next week.
> 
> 
> Does that sound right?



I don't have any independent confirmation of that but it would not surprise me. The first batch of hardware was likely already done and just awaiting the approval on the final firmware for factory install.

--Bob


----------



## zr123

Thanks Bob & jayray!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/15595985
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Maybe you could help shed some light on my problem, as everyone seems to blame the D2. For some reason the D2 and my ATI 3870 card are seeing eye to eye. The D2 always says that the ATI card is sending 1080i but according to ATI the card does not do any scaling it only sends info based upon what the request is from the D2. It does seem to matter what the source is from the HTPC, 480, 720p, 1080p it all shows up as 1080i and according to the EDID data the monitor is a 37.1 " display, which is wrong as it is a Sony 60" sxrd XBR2. I have attached the EDID data that comes back from the D2, maybe you might see something in that no else does.



I don't think I'm going to be able to help you with this one.


Your best bet would probably be to email the details to Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Just got this from Nick.

*Hi John,


The first D2v's left today and the line is being set up for AVM 50v's - possible they'll ship next week.


Nick*


----------



## Bob Pariseau












--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I would just like point out that my timing prediction made last August -- that first D2v shipments would be in November with an error range of -1 month to +2 months -- has proven to be accurate!


FIGJAM!









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Another thought on this: If they are going to ship AVM 50v units as soon as next week, they better get their act in gear and tell dealers the pricing.


It may be that the AVM 50v ends up at current AVM 50 pricing (with ARC bundled) by default.


--------------------------------------------------


ETA: This is now a 600 page thread if you use the default posts/page setting. We are just shy of 18,000 total posts, and 3/4 of a million views. Not bad at all for such an esoteric product.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Does anybody know if the D2v is also assembled in its 220volts version at the moment (for export) ?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15597335
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Does anybody know if the D2v is also assembled in its 220volts version at the moment (for export) ?
> 
> 
> Thanks



The Product Data Sheets handed out at CES make no mention of this (not surprising since CES serves primarily a North American dealer base), but the draft D2v manual that we've posted here still includes mention in the Specifications section of the "High Voltage" version for countries that use 220 or 240.


I would be surprised if the first production run of D2v units included any allocation for 220V shipments however.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Nick said I could bring mine in directly for the upgrade as long as I pick it up. Like that won't happen









John


Hopefully we'll get a review soon from some lucky soul with his new D2V. Then I would like to see a pile of jumping mascots.









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

So, uh, how late are they open tonight?










--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I'v been reading about Dolby Volume and wondered how valuable it would be for someone with a dedicated HT and no you children with a wife who never complains about the volume. That's me









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We discussed this stuff back around CEDIA time last September when both Dolby and THX tried to make hay out of this sort of new "feature".


Personally, I doubt I would ever use it. But we had some folks here stating that they thought the extra intelligence in the new algorithms would help maintain audio quality better at low volumes.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15597211
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thank you *Hank Panky* for the 2nd Generation Emoticons

to go with the 2nd Generation Anthem Gear


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15597698
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I'v been reading about Dolby Volume and wondered how valuable it would be for someone with a dedicated HT and no you children with a wife who never complains about the volume. That's me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



In your situation you might still appreciate Dolby Volume's ability to normalize loudness across programs/channels/commercials when watching TV. This is a benefit regardless of playback volume.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Good point, Roger! I'd forgotten about that aspect of it.

--Bob


----------



## AnthemAVM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15598828
> 
> 
> In your situation you might still appreciate Dolby Volume's ability to normalize loudness across programs/channels/commercials when watching TV. This is a benefit regardless of playback volume.



I defected from Anthem D2 to an Integra 9.9, and one the big selling point to me was the Dynamic Volume and Dynamic EQ. It makes a huge differnce given most of the time I am doing low level volume.


----------



## jayray

Thanks Roger and AnthemAVM. Will give a try when I get the upgrade.

John


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15598828
> 
> 
> In your situation you might still appreciate Dolby Volume's ability to normalize loudness across programs/channels/commercials when watching TV. This is a benefit regardless of playback volume.



You mean there are people here who still watch commercials?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/15599492
> 
> 
> You mean there are people here who still watch commercials?



It is a philosophy I am always pushing, solve the issue at their source.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15597019
> 
> 
> I don't have any independent confirmation of that but it would not surprise me. The first batch of hardware was likely already done and just awaiting the approval on the final firmware for factory install.
> 
> --Bob




That`s right, They are probably piling them on a bench waiting for final software to be flashed.


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/15595985
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Maybe you could help shed some light on my problem, as everyone seems to blame the D2. For some reason the D2 and my ATI 3870 card are seeing eye to eye. The D2 always says that the ATI card is sending 1080i but according to ATI the card does not do any scaling it only sends info based upon what the request is from the D2. It does seem to matter what the source is from the HTPC, 480, 720p, 1080p it all shows up as 1080i and according to the EDID data the monitor is a 37.1 " display, which is wrong as it is a Sony 60" sxrd XBR2. I have attached the EDID data that comes back from the D2, maybe you might see something in that no else does.



Whitl,


I have an HTPC with a ATI 3870 graphics card.


It has always treated my AVM-50 just like a monitor. I can configure the computer to send any resolution I want to it and have it spit out whatever resolution I want to my projector.


I have not found a way to get the HTPC to send native graphics to the AVM-50.


I have set my HTPC up to send a standard 1080/30i signal and my AVM-50 to convert to a standard 1080/30p signal. I have tried setting the HTPC to 1080/24p and the AVM pass this thru (for blue ray) to my projector, but I got a bad audio sync problem. Not sure if this is the fault of the ATI or the Anthem, as both are reported to have problems with 24p...


Please note that the ATI 38XX cards can not pass multi-channel PCM. You need a ATI 4XXX card to pass more than 2 channel PCM for blue ray.


Ed


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/15602139
> 
> 
> Whitl,
> 
> 
> I have an HTPC with a ATI 3870 graphics card.
> 
> 
> It has always treated my AVM-50 just like a monitor. I can configure the computer to send any resolution I want to it and have it spit out whatever resolution I want to my projector.
> 
> 
> I have not found a way to get the HTPC to send native graphics to the AVM-50.
> 
> 
> I have set my HTPC up to send a standard 1080/30i signal and my AVM-50 to convert to a standard 1080/30p signal. I have tried setting the HTPC to 1080/24p and the AVM pass this thru (for blue ray) to my projector, but I got a bad audio sync problem. Not sure if this is the fault of the ATI or the Anthem, as both are reported to have problems with 24p...
> 
> 
> Please note that the ATI 38XX cards can not pass multi-channel PCM. You need a ATI 4XXX card to pass more than 2 channel PCM for blue ray.
> 
> 
> Ed



Im not sure why you cant pass more then 2 channel on your ati 38xx cards. I have a x1250 ati card and have no trouble getting 5.1 sound passed to the d2 with blu ray....otherwise I would be in anthem logic mode if I wasnt able to pass more then 2 channels.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't expect my saying so makes it any more real, but I do now have independent confirmation that the D2v is now shipping.


I think they may be holding off updating the public download page with ARC V2.0.0 until they have the AVM 50v manual ready to include with it. Since the AVM 50v is also now in production (for first shipments possibly as early as next week), that is likely only a matter of days.


One thing I'm not at all clear on is whether there will be a firmware update for the D2, D1, AVM 50 and AVM 40 to bring them up to the version V2.0 level -- within the limits of what their hardware can do of course -- or whether further fixes for them will continue in the V1.3x line of firmware versions.


ETA: Just heard back from Nick. The firmware for the current D2, D1, AVM 50, and AVM 40 products will stay in the V1.3x line. The current firmware version is V1.33 of course. Nick anticipates a V1.34 with some pending bug fixes but he doesn't have a date on that one yet. I also don't have any info on precisely which fixes are targeted for V1.34. Nick tells me that Anthem has sent test units to companies with products still having HDMI issues, but that it appears at the moment that the HDMI problems are all things that need to be fixed in the products from those other companies. I don't yet know whether V1.34 will include any HDMI fixes in the Anthem code itself.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Bob you briefly mentioned something a week or so ago that caught my attention. You said that it might be possible to upgrade the front of the unit. So a guy can get the actual D2v, and fancy Tru-HD and DTS HD MA decals on the unit. I know it's useless but it's something I'd be interested in. Any idea how much that front plate would/could cost?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sorry, I've got no idea what it will cost. Probably more than it is worth. When you or your dealer get in touch with Anthem to schedule the upgrade, I'm sure they'll be able to figure it out for you. Understand that anything out of the ordinary in the upgrade process may also delay things a bit.


For example, folks who order a new unit with the optional front panel for rack mounting typically have an extra month's delay before it ships.


But I think any extra delay would happen before they tell you to ship the unit in, rather than the amount of time before you get it back.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/15602139
> 
> 
> Whitl,
> 
> 
> I have an HTPC with a ATI 3870 graphics card.
> 
> 
> It has always treated my AVM-50 just like a monitor. I can configure the computer to send any resolution I want to it and have it spit out whatever resolution I want to my projector.
> 
> 
> I have not found a way to get the HTPC to send native graphics to the AVM-50.
> 
> 
> I have set my HTPC up to send a standard 1080/30i signal and my AVM-50 to convert to a standard 1080/30p signal. I have tried setting the HTPC to 1080/24p and the AVM pass this thru (for blue ray) to my projector, but I got a bad audio sync problem. Not sure if this is the fault of the ATI or the Anthem, as both are reported to have problems with 24p...
> 
> 
> Please note that the ATI 38XX cards can not pass multi-channel PCM. You need a ATI 4XXX card to pass more than 2 channel PCM for blue ray.
> 
> 
> Ed



My recommandation on this is that the effort required trying to stabilize playback with older card while it is basically plug and play with the new ATI 4550 selling for 50$ is not worth the effort. Furthermore with the 4550you get full high rez audio for application such as Foobar playing 5.1 flacs at 88.2 cool really cool.


----------



## dcrna

Will the upgraded models have Dolby volume control?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2v and the AVM 50v will add Dolby Volume in an upcoming, free firmware upgrade. The date for that firmware upgrade is not yet clear.


Anthem has announced that Dolby Volume is an upcoming feature for these two units, and the Dolby Volume logo is on the front panel, so I think you can feel confident it is coming soon.

--Bob


----------



## zr123

Does Anthem upgrade units that are no longer under warranty? For example if I was to purchase an AVM 50 off of someone privately, would I be able to send it in to Anthem for an upgrade?


Also since the AVM50s have 4 HDMIs, after the upgrade is that changed to 8? or that part remains the same (at 4)?


Just curious how it all works... We placed an order for the AVM 50v today, woo hoo!


----------



## CycloneMike

Per tech support e-mail today they are working on the final details on what is going to be included in each of the upgrade permutations and what, if any, options might be offered. They have also not brought in a D1, a D1-HD, or a D2 to perform and upgrade or test the new hardware and software in the units.


The basic upgrade permutations for the D2v (which includes ARC) include:


D1 to D2v

D1-HD to D2v

D1-HD with ARC to D2v

D2 to D2v

D2 with ARC to D2v


Some current items that are possibly under consideration include:


1. Pricing

2. Power Supply

3. Front Panel


Depending on the final “upgrade kit” decision an upgraded D2v would be technically and cosmetically identical, except for maybe power supply and front panel, to a new D2v. However, as indicated above, the power supply and front panel options are still under consideration.


Not really much new news, but this does indicate they are thinking about it / working on it and that the upgrades are not imminent.


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here's my understanding:


Anthem will upgrade units regardless of their warranty or prior ownership status. The price is no different for a unit still under warranty or a unit out of warranty.


[If you send in a unit that is broken, and the parts that need replacing are not already part of the upgrade, then of course there will be an extra charge for parts/labor for units no longer in warranty.]


The remaining Anthem warranty on a used unit does not transfer to a new owner unless the transaction is done via an authorized Anthem dealer (e.g., old owner trades in unit and new owner buys used unit from dealer).


However the components replaced during the upgrade get a NEW warranty of the same type that holds for those components when you purchase a new unit and dating from the date of the upgrade. That is, audio components (the DSP board in this case) replaced during the upgrade get a 3 year warranty. The video board gets a 2 year warranty.


The upgrade involves replacing the back panel, moving the radio antenna connections down, and replacing the DSP and video boards. The new video board includes the 8 HDMI inputs and the 2 HDMI outputs. The upper row of HDMI inputs end up being where the radio antenna connections were in the original unit.


The bottom line is that an upgraded unit has the same connectors, functions, and feature set as a new unit. The only quibble is that the front panel is not replaced so you don't get the new silk-screened logos for things like DTS-HD MA, and the LED indicator lights don't change (not really important since all the critical info is better displayed in the front panel display and on-screen display).

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15604743
> 
> 
> Some current items that are possibly under consideration include:
> 
> 
> 1. Pricing
> 
> 2. Power Supply
> 
> 3. Front Panel
> 
> 
> Depending on the final upgrade kit decision an upgraded D2v would be technically and cosmetically identical, except for maybe power supply and front panel, to a new D2v. However, as indicated above, the power supply and front panel options are still under consideration.
> 
> 
> Not really much new news, but this does indicate they are thinking about it / working on it and that the upgrades are not imminent.
> 
> 
> Mike



Thanks Mike (and Bob), here's hoping they decided to offer 2 and 3. It doesn't matter to me if it's included or not because either way we'll be paying for it. I suppose it would be better for _everyone_ if the power supply and front panel were optional so people could choose to save a few bucks.


Me, I like them silk-screened logos... I'll go for it if it's not included as long as the cost to do so isn't out of this world. I mean if it doesn't have a logo it doesn't exist right?


----------



## spiderv6

Pricing in general seems to be still not that clear.


Just talked to my dealer to see what he knew on the D2 and AVM50.


He said he is getting a D2V withing the next 7 days or so but that Anthem have not released a new price sheet for either unit. He was going to call them and call me back.


Last time I talked to him he was talking about introductory pricing on the D2V but he never mentioned that this time.


Waiting on a call back.......


----------



## Bob Pariseau

~Ohdee~

Understand that you don't need a new power supply. Your D2 is new enough that it already has the power supply that ships in a new D2v.


In fact even owners of the oldest D2 units don't *NEED* the newer power supply. I don't think it changes anything you would see or hear.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15604990
> 
> 
> Pricing in general seems to be still not that clear.
> 
> 
> Just talked to my dealer to see what he knew on the D2 and AVM50.
> 
> 
> He said he is getting a D2V withing the next 7 days or so but that Anthem have not released a new price sheet for either unit. He was going to call them and call me back.
> 
> 
> Last time I talked to him he was talking about introductory pricing on the D2V but he never mentioned that this time.
> 
> 
> Waiting on a call back.......



We've got several dealers who follow this thread. With any luck, one of them will update us shortly on the official MSRP for a new D2v or AVM 50v, as well as any official introductory pricing (as distinct from deals you might negotiate directly with your dealer -- which should not be posted here -- only in PMs).


We had a post like that just before CES from one of the dealers, but it would be good to confirm whether or not anything has changed now that the units are actually shipping.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Bob do you know if there’s a dealer charge to get the units upgraded? What I mean is if Anthem is charging $100.00 for the upgrade should I expect to have to give my dealer $110.00 to get the upgrade done. Could I expect to save any money if I deal with Anthem directly?


(edit) and thanks for the heads up on the power supply. I did not know that!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

When Anthem did the D1 -> D2 upgrade they set it up two ways. Either you could deal with Anthem directly (no dealer involved) or you could work it through your dealer.


Folks who did it through the dealer generally did that because they wanted dealer assistance in the removal and re-install/setup and with the shipping. Any dealer charges depended on the customer's relationship with that dealer.


I don't recall any posts here of problems doing that upgrade either way.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15605044
> 
> 
> We've got several dealers who follow this thread. With any luck, one of them will update us shortly on the official MSRP for a new D2v or AVM 50v, as well as any official introductory pricing (as distinct from deals you might negotiate directly with your dealer -- which should not be posted here -- only in PMs).
> 
> 
> We had a post like that just before CES from one of the dealers, but it would be good to confirm whether or not anything has changed now that the units are actually shipping.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, My dealer spoke with Anthem last Wednesday and was advised that the introductory MSRP for the D2v is $7499 US, but that there would be a price increase (unknown) shortly.


I will ask him to obtain pricing for AVM50v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That matches what was posted just before CES.

--Bob


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/15602913
> 
> 
> Im not sure why you cant pass more then 2 channel on your ati 38xx cards. I have a x1250 ati card and have no trouble getting 5.1 sound passed to the d2 with blu ray....otherwise I would be in anthem logic mode if I wasnt able to pass more then 2 channels.



I know for sure that you need a 4XXX series ATI card to get it to pass multi-channel PCM. The older cards will pass standard DD/DTS or 2 channel PCM. but not 5.1 channel PCM.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15605260
> 
> 
> I will ask him to obtain pricing for AVM50v.



Thanks


----------



## jayray

Just talked to my Dealer, which has very close contact with Anthem and even they have not gotten any pricing for new or upgrades. They said they will email me as soon as they hear.

John


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15605712
> 
> 
> Just talked to my Dealer, which has very close contact with Anthem and even they have not gotten any pricing for new or upgrades. They said they will email me as soon as they hear.
> 
> John



I find this interesting because Anthem cannot be shipping D2v units to dealers without a msrp and dealer price. And, we have been advised direct from the source that they are shipping. I am convinced that if your dealer called Anthem to place an order that he would be given D2v pricing.


I can understand that there is no upgrade pricing yet because the upgrades are not yet available. If I were Anthem I would sell a slew of new D2v's before publishing upgrade pricing.


----------



## The Bogg

Anyone know if the graphs of the speaker responses (measured and target) are the average of the positions measured or just the main listening position's measurement?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick confirmed to me that for ARC V1.2.5 the Measured curves are the unweighted average across the complete set of mic positions.


I don't have any reason to believe that has changed for "test" ARC V2.0.0, but a number of people have reported "better" Measured curves at the highest frequencies with the test software so something has changed up there. It may simply be the way Anthem applies the mic calibration corrections at the highest frequencies. Or it may be that they have modified the algorithm to remove some of the high frequency directionality -- which would likely weight the mic #1 position more than the others up there. Or they may have just fixed a bug. I don't know.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15604536
> 
> 
> The D2v and the AVM 50v will add Dolby Volume in an upcoming, free firmware upgrade. The date for that firmware upgrade is not yet clear.
> 
> 
> Anthem has announced that Dolby Volume is an upcoming feature for these two units, and the Dolby Volume logo is on the front panel, so I think you can feel confident it is coming soon.
> 
> --Bob



At CES the Anthem rep indicated to me that Dolby Volume should be available as part of a firmware upgrade by June '09, and possibly before. He confirmed that the v.2 hardware is required to get Dolby Volume, so no upgrade for regular old D2s.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15606508
> 
> 
> I find this interesting because Anthem cannot be shipping D2v units to dealers without a msrp and dealer price. And, we have been advised direct from the source that they are shipping. I am convinced that if your dealer called Anthem to place an order that he would be given D2v pricing.
> 
> 
> I can understand that there is no upgrade pricing yet because the upgrades are not yet available. If I were Anthem I would sell a slew of new D2v's before publishing upgrade pricing.



While I would agree with you, the salesman I deal with did ask for a pricing list but has not received it yet. He used to work for Paradigm so he has good connections. I'm sure it will happen soon









John


----------



## tngiloy

Please forgive me if this has been discussed already, but there is a discrepency in the 'sub' levels between ARC and my D2.

I downloaded ARC 2.0 a little while ago, re-calibrated my last measurement from v1.2.5 and uploaded. Everything went fine, but when I checked the speaker x-overs in the D2 menu 3a and 3b, the sub x-over in movie was 55hz and 45hz in music. In ARC it showed that the sub x-over should be 120hz for both movie and music.









Has anyone had similar differences between x-over levels from ARC to D2?

Is this normal, or do I need to re-run ARC with new speaker measurements?

Please advise me.


----------



## BJB23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15605260
> 
> 
> Bob, My dealer spoke with Anthem last Wednesday and was advised that the introductory MSRP for the D2v is $7499 US, but that there would be a price increase (unknown) shortly.I will ask him to obtain pricing for AVM50v.



I was told by my dealer that the intro pricing for the AVM50v is $5499 US, $7499 for the D2v (as already reported), and that the intro pricing was supposed to last till the end of January.* After that there would be an unknown price increase (not yet specified by Anthem) on both units.


-Brad


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15607901
> 
> 
> Please forgive me if this has been discussed already, but there is a discrepency in the 'sub' levels between ARC and my D2.
> 
> I downloaded ARC 2.0 a little while ago, re-calibrated my last measurement from v1.2.5 and uploaded. Everything went fine, but when I checked the speaker x-overs in the D2 menu 3a and 3b, the sub x-over in movie was 55hz and 45hz in music. In ARC it showed that the sub x-over should be 120hz for both movie and music.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone had similar differences between x-over levels from ARC to D2?
> 
> Is this normal, or do I need to re-run ARC with new speaker measurements?
> 
> Please advise me.



This is normal. Read the explanation text in the Targets window. The new ARC allows "cutoffs" and crossovers to be set with different values. What's displayed in the Targets window are ARC's choice for the "cutoffs". What you are seeing in the Setup menu are the crossovers.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15608465
> 
> 
> This is normal. Read the explanation text in the Targets window. The new ARC allows "cutoffs" and crossovers to be set with different values. What's displayed in the Targets window are ARC's choice for the "cutoffs". What you are seeing in the Setup menu are the crossovers.
> 
> --Bob



Whew!

Thats comforting to know. It sounded exellent in my short audition. The graphs look better, especially in the upper freqencies.

v1.2.5 sounded exellent. If this proves to be better, WOW!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" ARC V2.0.1 Now Up on Password Protected Download Page*


A new "test" version of ARC, V2.0.1, has now appeared on Anthem's password protected download page. The release notes for changes since the current "official" version, ARC V1.2.5, read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.0.1:
> 
> 
> 1. Added ARC to D2v and AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> 2. Change to how sub crossover frequency is selected to address cases where the sub is a lot closer to the listener than the center channel, causing dialog to be heard from the sub if its crossover was set high enough.
> 
> 
> 3. More settings available for configurations not using a subwoofer. Note that while the front channels will be set to Large in the setup menu, ARC will still create a low frequency contour on the room correction target based on response at those frequencies. This cutoff frequency, displayed in the Targets panel, is separate from the bass manager's crossover.
> 
> 
> 4. The Targets panel also has options for setting the processor's bass manager to run channels at full range. These are best left unchecked, especially for surround channels since surround speakers are usually smaller.
> 
> 
> 5. Selecting Rears for measurement is not allowed if Surrounds are unselected. (In a 5.1 system use Surround channels, not Rears.)
> 
> 
> 6. Improved measurement at very low frequencies. Since this relates to frequencies below the lowest note on a bass guitar, it may not make a difference depending on existing in-room response.
> 
> 
> 7. Improved measurement at very high frequencies.
> 
> 
> If you have a file measured with ARC v1.2 to v1.2.5, remeasurement is not necessary. To convert the file format just open the file with the latest version of ARC, calculate, and upload. If you are uploading a file created for an AVM 40, AVM 50, D1, or D2 to an AVM 50v or D2v, ARC will ask for confirmation that you want to convert the file for use with the newer model.



I see no differences from the prior V2.0.0 "test" version release notes.


The change for V2.0.1 seems to be limited to the first appearance of the AVM 50v manual in a new "Manuals" folder that the installer apparently now looks in when offering the choice of manual to include with the ARC install. However the ARC application itself is also showing a change date of yesterday, so there may be some minor bug fixes in it as well. I can't be sure. The change to the application may be nothing more than updating it to report the new, V2.0.1, version number in the About menu item.


With this appearance of the AVM 50v manual, the last missing piece, I suspect we are within days of this version of ARC becoming "official".

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15605139
> 
> 
> Bob do you know if there's a dealer charge to get the units upgraded? What I mean is if Anthem is charging $100.00 for the upgrade should I expect to have to give my dealer $110.00 to get the upgrade done. Could I expect to save any money if I deal with Anthem directly?
> 
> 
> (edit) and thanks for the heads up on the power supply. I did not know that!



Yes the dealear is making profit as with any product sales. If not what would be their interest in this.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/15605341
> 
> 
> I know for sure that you need a 4XXX series ATI card to get it to pass multi-channel PCM. The older cards will pass standard DD/DTS or 2 channel PCM. but not 5.1 channel PCM.




With a 4550 you get everything. SadlyLPCM playback of blu-ray is locked at 16/48 but playback of other source material such as flac 5.1 is full resolution.


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15611294
> 
> 
> With a 4550 you get everything. SadlyLPCM playback of blu-ray is locked at 16/48 but playback of other source material such as flac 5.1 is full resolution.



Do you know if the D2/AVM-50 paired with an ATI 4550 or above is capable of 24P video?


I have an ATI 3870 and get a bad derogating lip sync issue. Not sure if it is and Anthem thing or ATI thing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Looking a little closer at the "test" ARC V2.0.1 download, I see that Anthem has also reorganized some of the pieces into a new "utilities" folder. Changes in that folder include the addition of a new PDF file containing instructions for the DSP board swap out that is part of adding the ARC upgrade to an original AVM 50 unit. This is supposed to be done by a service technician at your dealer when you purchase that AVM 50 ARC upgrade. NOTE: New AVM 50 and AVM 50v units, just like new D2 and D2v units, come with ARC already bundled, so this DSP board swap out is not necessary.


In addition, the older Setup Editor has been renamed Settings Backup. The text file that comes with it makes clear it is still not fully compatible with unit firmware V1.3x or later -- meaning you can't use it to actually edit or view the current Setup menu settings. But you CAN use it to make a copy of your Setup menu settings to a PC file and to reload the Setup menu from such a file. Instructions are in that text file.

*WARNING: Read and follow the instructions in that Settings Backup text file.*


Live Video Settings Editor is still in there of course and remains fully compatible. It is used to view and edit Video Source Adjust menu settings (on the fly -- i.e., while viewing stuff), to save and restore Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file, and to create and upload custom video output timings and custom gamma correction curves.


CAUTION: I've had cases with Live Video Settings Editor where retrieving the current Video Source Adjust menu settings from the Anthem or loading new settings into the Anthem did not transfer all of the settings correctly. Usually, doing the transfer again fixed the problem. It does not look to me like Live Video Settings editor has been updated since I reported this bug, so the bug probably still exists. It is wise to look through the settings retrieved from the Anthem or the results of uploading settings to the Anthem and make any necessary corrections rather than just assuming these transfers must have worked correctly.


----------------------------------------


I've got an email in to Nick now to find out whether the newly renamed Settings Backup program and the current Live Video Settings Editor program can be used to copy settings from a D2 or AVM 50 and restore them to a new or upgraded D2v or AVM50v.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15611276
> 
> 
> Yes the dealear is making profit as with any product sales. If not what would be their interest in this.



Tolstoi,


I am sure you are correct, but I don't believe that the upgrades are really a huge dealer profit center. My dealer generally simply passes the upgrade through without mark-up as he appreciates all of my repeat (upgradeitis) business.


----------



## cargen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15605007
> 
> 
> ~Ohdee~
> 
> Understand that you don't need a new power supply. Your D2 is new enough that it already has the power supply that ships in a new D2v.
> 
> 
> In fact even owners of the oldest D2 units don't *NEED* the newer power supply. I don't think it changes anything you would see or hear.
> 
> --Bob



I have a D1-HD upgraded in Feb 07 from a D1, which I purchased in 2004. So what is inferior about my D1-HD power supply to the power supply in a D2 and what are the real world disadvantages?


Chris


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/15612557
> 
> 
> Do you know if the D2/AVM-50 paired with an ATI 4550 or above is capable of 24P video?
> 
> 
> I have an ATI 3870 and get a bad derogating lip sync issue. Not sure if it is and Anthem thing or ATI thing.



Are you using TMT? ATI + TMT + 24p = bad audio drift


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cargen* /forum/post/15613420
> 
> 
> I have a D1-HD upgraded in Feb 07 from a D1, which I purchased in 2004. So what is inferior about my D1-HD power supply to the power supply in a D2 and what are the real world disadvantages?
> 
> 
> Chris



You'll have to ask Anthem tech support that question.


I don't believe there are any significant advantages. They just made a manufacturing decision to switch to a different power supply -- perhaps just due to parts availability.

--Bob


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15613748
> 
> 
> You'll have to ask Anthem tech support that question.
> 
> 
> I don't believe there are any significant advantages. They just made a manufacturing decision to switch to a different power supply -- perhaps just due to parts availability.
> 
> --Bob



I'm not certain, but the D1 has a twin toroid conventional supply, and the D2 was switched to a switching supply for efficiency (so says the webpage writeup).


When I got my D1 to D1-HD upgrade, they did not change my power supply, stating that both were adequate to the task. We should ask if the original D2 switching supply is now OK with the D2v2 upgrade, or needs to be beefed up.


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15613578
> 
> 
> Are you using TMT? ATI + TMT + 24p = bad audio drift



No, I am using PowerDVD 8.0 (Premium/Platnum?).


I only tried it one time and had the problem. I thought that the Anthem had problems with 24p. Is this true, or could I end up fixing things with a new ATI 4XXX graphics card that will also pass multi-channel PCM? Thanks.


Ed


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15604990
> 
> 
> Pricing in general seems to be still not that clear.
> 
> 
> Just talked to my dealer to see what he knew on the D2 and AVM50.
> 
> 
> He said he is getting a D2V withing the next 7 days or so but that Anthem have not released a new price sheet for either unit. He was going to call them and call me back.
> 
> 
> Last time I talked to him he was talking about introductory pricing on the D2V but he never mentioned that this time.
> 
> 
> Waiting on a call back.......



I just got the call back and the launch pricing is way better than I expected (and quite a bit below the $7499 discussed so far). I should have but didnt ask if he had added any extra discounts onto that.


For that reason, I guess I should only release the info via PM.....?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15615675
> 
> 
> I just got the call back and the launch pricing is way better than I expected (and quite a bit below the $7499 discussed so far). I should have but didnt ask if he had added any extra discounts onto that.
> 
> 
> For that reason, I guess I should only release the info via PM.....?



If he says it is the official Anthem pricing -- even just for the introductory period -- it is fair game to post here.


If he says it is a special price he is doing just for you, or just for his customers, then you should leave it to PMs.


So you'll need to ask him if he is quoting you the official Anthem pricing or not.

--Bob


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15615675
> 
> 
> I just got the call back and the launch pricing is way better than I expected (and quite a bit below the $7499 discussed so far). I should have but didnt ask if he had added any extra discounts onto that.
> 
> 
> For that reason, I guess I should only release the info via PM.....?



i thought the new msrp was $6699?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *osofast240sx* /forum/post/15616391
> 
> 
> i thought the new msrp was $6699?



This is what we are trying to nail down. We're also trying to figure out whether this is promotional pricing (from Anthem) and how much longer the promotion might last. I suspect there are also pricing differences between US, Canada, and other international markets.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *osofast240sx* /forum/post/15616391
> 
> 
> i thought the new msrp was $6699?



Why would the msrp of the new D2v be $800 less than the msrp of the D2 prior to the D2 being discontinued. I wish that your thoughts on the new msrp were correct, but I doubt it. Prices of newly introduced products generally stay the same or increase - not get reduced.


----------



## spiderv6

well if thats the case (and it's the first time i have heard that number $6699) then the number i got today from my dealer would be an extra discount.


He also said that intro pricing would be until mid-feb-ish.


It appears to me that the intro pricing (and the dealer discount pricing) has been pulled south compared to where it was before Christmas.


Sign of the times.......


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15616959
> 
> 
> Why would the msrp of the new D2v be $800 less than the msrp of the D2 prior to the D2 being discontinued. I wish that your thoughts on the new msrp were correct, but I doubt it. Prices of newly introduced products generally stay the same or increase - not get reduced.



the economy?


----------



## jayray

While simple looking, the new settings backup utility looks easy to use and very helpful when updates foul up one's settings. Will try it out tomorrow.

John


----------



## davidhoenig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15594123
> 
> 
> The most common reason for a report like this is simple installation error. Make sure the laptop is connected to the D2 HDMI input jack you think it is connected to and that the Setup > Source Setup device definition you are modifying to use with it is the same one you are selecting as D2 input on the remote when trying to view from the laptop.
> 
> 
> In terms of set up values themselves, turn off "Deep Color" output from the laptop if it offers that. Tell the laptop to output YCbCr 4:4:4 data format (at least to start). Double check the output resolution you have set for the laptop.
> 
> 
> Some computer graphics cards get confused during the handshake because they change the output resolution too frequently as they start up. A number of folks with home theater PCs have reported good luck using a device from Gefen called "DVI Detective" (I believe they have an HDMI version as well) that sits between the computer and the D2 and that forces the handshake values to fixed settings. This might be worth a try.
> 
> 
> In addition, some HDMI source devices do not implement the "repeater processing" part of the HDMI protocol. As soon as they discover they are not directly connected to a TV they just give up. This should not be a problem when connected through the D2, but again the DVI Detective product may help with that.
> 
> --Bob



Good suggestions, but to no avail. I cannot seem to find any Deep Color settings, and I cannot set the color settings until the laptop recognizes there is a display attached.


That's the challenge, unless it recognizes a secondary display, there's nothing to set up. When I connect the D2 to the laptop, it's as if I didn't connect anything at all.


When I connect it directly to my Mits, it recognizes the display immediately.


Can anyone think of any video settings on the D2 to try?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here's some additional info from Nick on the utilities available with the ARC V2.0.1 download:


1) The Settings Backup utility does indeed work with both the current D2/AVM 50 firmware and the new D2v/AVM 50v firmware. Again, it's sole function is to save and restore your Setup menu settings via a PC file.


2) The same is true for Live Video Settings Editor. However there is a known bug that LVSE reports it has found one of the current units instead of one of the new units (just ignore that).


3) The firmware and the two utility programs have been designed with the intention that you can save settings from a current unit and load them into a new unit, however that has not yet been tested extensively, so there may be some issues.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/15619623
> 
> 
> Good suggestions, but to no avail. I cannot seem to find any Deep Color settings, and I cannot set the color settings until the laptop recognizes there is a display attached.
> 
> 
> That's the challenge, unless it recognizes a secondary display, there's nothing to set up. When I connect the D2 to the laptop, it's as if I didn't connect anything at all.
> 
> 
> When I connect it directly to my Mits, it recognizes the display immediately.
> 
> 
> Can anyone think of any video settings on the D2 to try?



Power off the D2 and the laptop. Disconnect your display from the D2. Power on the D2 with no display connected and select the input you are using for the laptop. Power on the laptop.


If the laptop does not now see the D2 then there are no settings in the D2 that you can adjust to fix this. Apparently the laptop can not handle the HDMI handshake to the D2. The Gefen DVI Detective product may help.


There are lots or reasons why this might fail even though it works when directly connected to the display. They all point to faulty HDMI handshake implementation in the laptop. For example, some sources are not engineered to deal with the number of connection options (audio/video combos) an AVR like the D2 will present. The Gefen DVI Detective product may help as it isolates the laptop from the EDID information coming from the D2.


-----------------------------------------------------------


If the laptop DOES recognize the D2 when no display is connected to the D2, but still fails to do so when the display is connected, then the laptop has not properly implemented the "repeater processing" part of the HDMI protocol. It is built to only work when directly connected to a display. Again this is faulty HDMI implementation in the laptop.


----------------------------------------------------------


I forget the details of what you have already tried, but I'm assuming you have eliminated the possibility that this particular HDMI input on the D2 is broken -- i.e., you've tried this using an HDMI input you know works when connected to some other device.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

Bob, 2 questions:


1) The idea of getting my D2 power supply upgraded with the D2v upgrade is of some interest to me. My D2 runs "hot", but I don't have experience with a current D2 to compare it to. Do you have an approximate idea of at what serial # the transition to the "new" power supply occurred?


2) You have been fairly specific about what hardware changes the D2V upgrade includes. Based on past major Anthem hardware upgrade programs, does Anthem typically run general diagnostics on the units to see if all the hardware, including the parts not being upgraded, are functioning at factory spec? Many of us have learned from experience that high-end equipment is very finicky, and a working unit can still function significantly out of spec. I would gladly pay additional to to have my D2 refreshed so it will be "all it can be".


----------



## dweltman

I am also wondering if anyone here has talked to their dealer about trading in their old D2 rather than upgrading. Obviously, getting a brand shiny new D2V is worth some premium over the reported upgrade cost of $2500. So I might consider doing that (of course depending on what the cost differential would turn out to be). I live on Long Island, so if anybody here has any info from a NY area dealer on this issue, I would be grateful for a PM.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *osofast240sx* /forum/post/15617873
> 
> 
> the economy?



There is also a huge difference in the exchange rate between $CDN and $US


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/15620394
> 
> 
> Bob, 2 questions:
> 
> 
> 1) The idea of getting my D2 power supply upgraded with the D2v upgrade is of some interest to me. My D2 runs "hot", but I don't have experience with a current D2 to compare it to. Do you have an approximate idea of at what serial # the transition to the "new" power supply occurred?
> 
> 
> 2) You have been fairly specific about what hardware changes the D2V upgrade includes. Based on past major Anthem hardware upgrade programs, does Anthem typically run general diagnostics on the units to see if all the hardware, including the parts not being upgraded, are functioning at factory spec? Many of us have learned from experience that high-end equipment is very finicky, and a working unit can still function significantly out of spec. I would gladly pay additional to to have my D2 refreshed so it will be "all it can be".




My current D2 run Hot too. I don't know if this because of the power supply or the video board or a mixture of both. I don't know if the D2V will be different I will check.


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15620557
> 
> 
> There is also a huge difference in the exchange rate between $CDN and $US



Right CAD $7499 = USD $5899


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15620724
> 
> 
> Right CAD $7499 = USD $5899



Anthem list price is always set in US$. I am more refering to their manufacturing cost wich is mostly in CDN$.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/15620411
> 
> 
> I am also wondering if anyone here has talked to their dealer about trading in their old D2 rather than upgrading. Obviously, getting a brand shiny new D2V is worth some premium over the reported upgrade cost of $2500. So I might consider doing that (of course depending on what the cost differential would turn out to be). I live on Long Island, so if anybody here has any info from a NY area dealer on this issue, I would be grateful for a PM.



What do you think youd get from a dealer for a used D2? $3k? Less?


Selling price on Ebay/Audiogon at this time is somewhere around $3700. I think that is HIGH given the new pricing information now becoming available.


Used D2 (3500?) + Cost of upgrade (2500?) and you are very very close to intro pricing.


I don't think that buying a used D2 and upgrading is an economically sensible route to a D2V (until/if the pricing reverts to $7499).


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/15614924
> 
> 
> No, I am using PowerDVD 8.0 (Premium/Platnum?).
> 
> 
> I only tried it one time and had the problem. I thought that the Anthem had problems with 24p. Is this true, or could I end up fixing things with a new ATI 4XXX graphics card that will also pass multi-channel PCM? Thanks.
> 
> 
> Ed



If you really want silky-smooth 24p from a PC, the only way to get it is with the nVidia IGP 8200/8300 (AMD) or 9300/9400 (Intel). Unfortunately, no other solution provides silky smooth 24p and HD audio from a PC.


Check out my sig for more details.


----------



## tngiloy

I downloaded the ARC v2.0 from the Anthem test site the other day and loaded my last measurement file from v1.2.5, recalibrated and uploaded with no problem (other than not reading the note in the ARC targets page, and being confused by the difference in the sub settings in ARC and the D2 speaker configuration menu. Thanks to Bob I figured that out).

I had some extra time yesterday and decided, since I had a new plasma and wanted to adjust the position of one of my fronts slightly, that I would get out the mic and do a new set of readings.

Again everything went fine, BUT the x-overs were significantly different.

In v2.0, using my v1.2.5 measurement, my settings were: fronts-45, center-50, surr-60, rears 115(dipole), sub-120hz.

Using v2.0 with the new v2.0 readings my settings were: fronts-60, center-60, surr-60, rears-90, sub-120.

I had done a couple readings with the v1.2.5 before when I had tweaked speaker positions, and the readings were always very similar, but with the new 2.0 reading the x-overs were significantly different.

I'm wondering if there is a difference in the way the readings are done in v2.0, and not only a difference in how they are calculated.

Has anyone else had a similar experience in v2.0?

If so, I think it might be a good idea to re-measure when you upgrade to v2.0 so that it will be v2.0 from measurement>calibration>upload.

I am interested in what what others have found and think.

Tom


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15620569
> 
> 
> My current D2 run Hot too. I don't know if this because of the power supply or the video board or a mixture of both. I don't know if the D2V will be different I will check.



I believe that is because of changes to the video board and using a newer lower power VXP chip in newer D2s (newer bing second half 2007 onwards). The original video boards (looking down into the D2 from the top grill) were green/brown, the newer ones are red.


----------



## jayray

Tngiloy,

When I did remeasurements with 2.0, my fronts went from 115 to 140. Sub is at 80 and centre is 60. These are all higher cutoffs than I had with any prior version. In fact the fronts have gone from 40 with my very first measurements and is now at 140. Center is at 60 from 40 at one point. My room hasn't changed but for a few minor toe-in of fronts. I have taken many measurements and results have varied most of the time but this is the highest values have been. The sound, well it is terrific so my ears do the judging now, not the cutoffs.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/15620394
> 
> 
> Bob, 2 questions:
> 
> 
> 1) The idea of getting my D2 power supply upgraded with the D2v upgrade is of some interest to me. My D2 runs "hot", but I don't have experience with a current D2 to compare it to. Do you have an approximate idea of at what serial # the transition to the "new" power supply occurred?
> 
> 
> 2) You have been fairly specific about what hardware changes the D2V upgrade includes. Based on past major Anthem hardware upgrade programs, does Anthem typically run general diagnostics on the units to see if all the hardware, including the parts not being upgraded, are functioning at factory spec? Many of us have learned from experience that high-end equipment is very finicky, and a working unit can still function significantly out of spec. I would gladly pay additional to to have my D2 refreshed so it will be "all it can be".



The new power supply runs cooler than the original power supply but it is still the major source of heat output from the box. I do not know when they made the switch in production but it was probably well over a year ago (about the time they switched to the "red" video board I expect).


It is my understanding that Anthem subjects an upgraded unit to the same set of quality checks they use when making new units.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15621488
> 
> 
> I downloaded the ARC v2.0 from the Anthem test site the other day and loaded my last measurement file from v1.2.5, recalibrated and uploaded with no problem (other than not reading the note in the ARC targets page, and being confused by the difference in the sub settings in ARC and the D2 speaker configuration menu. Thanks to Bob I figured that out).
> 
> I had some extra time yesterday and decided, since I had a new plasma and wanted to adjust the position of one of my fronts slightly, that I would get out the mic and do a new set of readings.
> 
> Again everything went fine, BUT the x-overs were significantly different.
> 
> In v2.0, using my v1.2.5 measurement, my settings were: fronts-45, center-50, surr-60, rears 115(dipole), sub-120hz.
> 
> Using v2.0 with the new v2.0 readings my settings were: fronts-60, center-60, surr-60, rears-90, sub-120.
> 
> I had done a couple readings with the v1.2.5 before when I had tweaked speaker positions, and the readings were always very similar, but with the new 2.0 reading the x-overs were significantly different.
> 
> I'm wondering if there is a difference in the way the readings are done in v2.0, and not only a difference in how they are calculated.
> 
> Has anyone else had a similar experience in v2.0?
> 
> If so, I think it might be a good idea to re-measure when you upgrade to v2.0 so that it will be v2.0 from measurement>calibration>upload.
> 
> I am interested in what what others have found and think.
> 
> Tom



Another thing to try is as follows:


Open up your ARC V1.2.5 Measurements file in ARC V2.0.1 advanced mode. Go to the Targets window. The Targets will be set to whatever you last used with V1.2.5. Click on Auto Detect. This causes ARC to re-evaluate the measured data and reset the Targets values to what it thinks are best. Normally you use this to undo any manual changes you have made in the Targets window. Now accept those Targets, thus dismissing the Targets window. ARC will preprocess the Measured data according to the new Targets.


Now Calculate and Upload and see if you don't get closer results to what you got when you Measured with V2.0.1.


Keep in mind that ARC V1.2.5 imposed the restriction that "cutoffs" and crossovers had to have the same values. "Test" ARC V2.0.1 no longer imposes that restriction. So the "cutoffs" (shown in the Targets window), and the crossovers (shown in the Setup menu after you Upload) may differ from what V1.2.5 thought best to take advantage of that extra degree of freedom in refining the solution.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/15621619
> 
> 
> I believe that is because of changes to the video board and using a newer lower power VXP chip in newer D2s (newer bing second half 2007 onwards). The original video boards (looking down into the D2 from the top grill) were green/brown, the newer ones are red.



The video processor, even the original one on the older green/brown video boards, was not a major source of heat from the unit. It has always been the case that the power supply was the major source of heat. The change to the chip used in the red video board was due to Gennum no longer making the version of the chip used in the green/brown board (there were no feature changes in this chip change out that the user can see).


The video board is of course positioned near the vents at the top of the unit to keep that processor cool even though it is not putting out that much heat, but primarily to keep the HDMI input/output chips cool as they have a lower operating temperature range. That's also why they are positioned on the opposite side of the chassis from the power supply.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Just did a backup of my setup files with the new utility. Recognized the unit instantly and backed up the files in less than a minute. Too bad the firmware doesn't work like that









John


----------



## AbMagFab

So - any of these actually in the wild yet? My last conversation with a dealer said they were supposed to be shipping today.


----------



## flynnflamman




Bob Pariseau said:


> The new power supply runs cooler than the original power supply but it is still the major source of heat output from the box. I do not know when they made the switch in production but it was probably well over a year ago (about the time they switched to the "red" video board I expect).
> 
> 
> I have used one of Middle Atlantic's Component Coolers for 2 years with my D2 and never had a heat related issue. It seemed like a safe $50 investment.
> 
> http://www.middleatlantic.com/pdf/CO...et_toprint.pdf
> 
> 
> Kevin


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I just talked to my dealer and msrp is 7499.


----------



## BJB23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15621038
> 
> 
> What do you think youd get from a dealer for a used D2? $3k? Less?
> 
> 
> Selling price on Ebay/Audiogon at this time is somewhere around $3700. I think that is HIGH given the new pricing information now becoming available.
> 
> 
> Used D2 (3500?) + Cost of upgrade (2500?) and you are very very close to intro pricing.
> 
> 
> I don't think that buying a used D2 and upgrading is an economically sensible route to a D2V (until/if the pricing reverts to $7499).



spiderv6, do you (or anyone else) have any information that the intro pricing set by Anthem (not the price a dealer will sell you one for) is less than $7499?


Thanks.

-Brad


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BJB23* /forum/post/15624995
> 
> 
> spiderv6, do you (or anyone else) have any information that the intro pricing set by Anthem (not the price a dealer will sell you one for) is less than $7499?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -Brad



I believe the pricing that everyone is getting is based on the $7499 USA MSRP introductory pricing. I also think most everyone is getting a discount off of that pricing from their dealers (including me).


Per forum rules, please do not discuss any pricing other that MSRP on the forums. If you want to find out what others are getting for pricing from their dealers, please PM them.


Thank you,


Mike


----------



## zr123

I wouldn't mind knowing what others have paid (or will be paying) for the AVM 50v and D2v... PM pls










Would also like to know if it's in USD or CAD.


Thanks!


----------



## BJB23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15625076
> 
> 
> I believe the pricing that everyone is getting is based on the $7499 USA MSRP introductory pricing. I also think most everyone is getting a discount off of that pricing from their dealers (including me).
> 
> 
> Per forum rules, please do not discuss any pricing other that MSRP on the forums. If you want to find out what others are getting for pricing from their dealers, please PM them.
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike, thanks for the confirmation, my question was about the intro MSRP set by Anthem. Several posts have been hinting about a lower intro MSRP (possibly being quoted by dealers).


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15622216
> 
> 
> Another thing to try is as follows:
> 
> 
> Open up your ARC V1.2.5 Measurements file in ARC V2.0.1 advanced mode. Go to the Targets window. The Targets will be set to whatever you last used with V1.2.5. Click on Auto Detect. This causes ARC to re-evaluate the measured data and reset the Targets values to what it thinks are best. Normally you use this to undo any manual changes you have made in the Targets window. Now accept those Targets, thus dismissing the Targets window. ARC will preprocess the Measured data according to the new Targets.
> 
> 
> Now Calculate and Upload and see if you don't get closer results to what you got when you Measured with V2.0.1.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that ARC V1.2.5 imposed the restriction that "cutoffs" and crossovers had to have the same values. "Test" ARC V2.0.1 no longer imposes that restriction. So the "cutoffs" (shown in the Targets window), and the crossovers (shown in the Setup menu after you Upload) may differ from what V1.2.5 thought best to take advantage of that extra degree of freedom in refining the solution.
> 
> --Bob



Bingo!

The one thing I didn't do was the 'auto detect' the first time. Just did it again doing the 'auto detect' step, making sure that the 'max eq' and 'room gain' were the same. This time the x-overs were the same, and the graphs look nearly identical.

I wanted to re-measure anyway, since I had made minor changes to my room, but that's a great suggestion to many people who don't need to re-measure.

Thanks again, Bob.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've suggested to Nick that Anthem add the Auto Detect step to the release notes for folks using old Measurements with the new ARC, but for some unknown reason he has elected not to do so.


Keep in mind that the solution found by ARC V1.2.5 works just fine for most people, so it's not that big a deal if they use V1.2.5 Measurements in ARC V2.0.1 without doing the additional Auto Detect step. Folks with difficult rooms, particularly with regard to bass, will be the ones who see the most benefit I suspect.


And of course anyone who does a new set of Measurements has that happen automatically anyway, so the whole issue goes away as more people do new, ARC V2.0.1 Measurements.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BJB23* /forum/post/15625177
> 
> 
> Mike, thanks for the confirmation, my question was about the intro MSRP set by Anthem. Several posts have been hinting about a lower intro MSRP (possibly being quoted by dealers).



I don't think there is a different introductory MSRP (USA) for the D2 than $7499. Several people are getting significant discounts from their dealers off of the $7499.


As always the $7499 is the suggested retail price.


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Further Updates on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page*


Additional updates have appeared this evening on Anthem's password protected download page (the "test" software). It looks like they are in the final cleaning up stages prior to doing an "official" public release of this stuff.


ARC remains at "test" version V2.0.1. The spreadsheet and text file documenting the RS-232 command set have both been updated. The release notes for changes since the current "official" version read as follows:



> Quote:
> version 9:
> 
> 
> For AVM 50v and D2v with v2.1 software, added Dolby Volume commands SLD, SLF, SCE, SCJ, and SCK.
> 
> 
> 
> version 8:
> 
> 
> Models Statement D2v and AVM 50v added. SCV, SCD, and SCX range from HDMI 1-8, P1DF? returns Ã«aÃ* for 7.1 or 8 channels, P1D? and P1? returns 7 for Dolby Digital Plus, 8 for Dolby TrueHD and 9 for DTS-HD, added SCU, SUW, and P1EW, removed SDR and SDC.



Note that Dolby Volume has appeared in the RS-232 command set. However it is still not implemented in the V2.0.x software that will be shipped with the first units.


Updated versions of the D2v and AVM 50v manuals (for firmware V2.0x) have also been added to the ARC V2.0.1 download folder. No major changes -- in particular Dolby Volume is not described yet. I did spot one change: HDMI audio can no longer be used as part of Simulcast mode. This had been an old restriction that was relaxed in recent D2, AVM 50 firmware, and apparently has now reappeared in the D2v and AVM 50v firmware presumably due to limitations imposed by the new HDMI V1.3c hardware.


The ARC V2.0.1 application itself, and the utility applications, are not changed.


-------------------------------------------------------------


Meanwhile, the "test" download folder for the unit firmware has also been changed. For some months now this folder has contained "official" D2 and AVM 50 version V1.33 firmware as well as some older versions that were presumably in there to help customers dealing with specific problems.


All of that is now gone.


What's in there now is D2v firmware V2.0.2 and AVM 50v firmware V2.0.2!


Again, this all points to ARC V2.0.x becoming "official" very soon now. I don't know what firmware is shipping with the first batch of D2v and AVM 50v units, so I don't know whether this "test" V2.0.2 firmware represents any additional changes or bug fixes. There are no release notes for this firmware yet.


ETA: And no sooner do I post this than the public and password protected Anthem pages go off line! It may just be coincidence, but they also may be in the process of pushing out the D2v and AVM 50v updates on their site.


ETA 2: Hmm, paradigm.com is also off line. So I'm leaning towards this being an internet problem at their end as opposed to a planned site update.


ETA 3: Oh well. Those sites are back on line again, and no interesting changes.

--Bob


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15626415
> 
> 
> I don't think there is a different introductory MSRP (USA) for the D2 than $7499. Several people are getting significant discounts from their dealers off of the $7499.
> 
> 
> As always the $7499 is the suggested retail price.
> 
> 
> Mike



I talked with my dealer today and he also confirmed the $7499 price for the D2v.


Buddy


----------



## buddy4711

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
First, the charts you posted only show the visible portions of the charts window when you did the screen capture -- so we can't see the bottom charts that include the Rears, Center, and Subwoofer. Scroll to the top of the chart window, capture that, then scroll to make the bottom set of charts visible in the window and capture that -- 2 separate files together containing all the charts.


Now the Fronts and Surrounds that are in the charts you posted do look to be having problems at high frequencies. This may just be the nature of these speakers but there are a few things you should check.


First make sure that all of your mic positions are set at seated ear height and that you are properly choosing mic locations: Mic #1 should be on center at the preferred seating distance, subsequent positions alternate to either side of #1, no two mic positions (whether or not they are sequential) are closer than 24 inches to each other, and the mic tip is not up near a surface that might reflect sound to it or shadow the sound from any of the speakers -- for example a chair back or wall. Also make sure you are not standing between any speakers and the mic while the test sweep tones are in progress. A wireless mouse is useful to help you get out of the way before you trigger the start of sweep tones.


Next, carefully consider the height and pointing of your speakers. Many speakers have poor vertical dispersion of most high frequencies, and it is also quite common for speakers to have weak horizontal dispersion at some frequencies (15KHz seems to be popular for some reason). Better positioning/pointing of the speakers may help with their high frequency response. For example, lower side surrounds closer to seated ear height if possible, and "toe in" your fronts a bit. They shouldn't be pointed directly towards center. I like 1/3 of the way in from perpendicular towards the center. Checking the manual for your speakers may give you some clues as to their high frequency performance and dispersion patterns. And of course if your speakers have any built in controls that might alter their high frequency response, check into how you've got those set as well.


Your high frequency response is not so bad as to suggest you have a driver problem in any speaker.


------------------------------------------


Once you have done what you can to improve the pointing/positioning of your speakers, go ahead and re-Measure and see what you get.


Now, I suggest you open ARC in Advanced mode and do everything from there. In Advanced mode you are in control of all 3 phases of what ARC does: Measurement, Calculation, and Upload.


When you have completed a set of Measurements, you can do a series of Calculations (adjusting Targets as I'm about to describe), and only do an Upload when you like the results you are getting. You can also open a saved file and do more Calculations/Uploads without having to re-Measure.


----------------------------------------


Open your file of Measurements in ARC Advanced mode, click on Targets to bring up the Targets window. ARC will display the Target settings it thinks are best given this set of Measurements, and most of them you should just leave at what ARC has chosen.


But one Target could be useful to you: The Max EQ Frequency Target limits how high up ARC will attempt to apply correction. By default it is set at 5KHz.


You can change that value, accept the change (which also dismisses the Target window), and do a new Calculation to see what results you get with the new Target. It is easy to do multiple Calculations like this to see how the results vary as you raise and lower the Max EQ Frequency Target. Once you get a result you like, now tell ARC to Upload that, and give it a listen!


Your current set of Measurements looks like it could benefit by telling ARC to use a higher Max EQ Frequency Target -- perhaps 15KHz. That will instruct ARC to help with your higher frequencies.


But when you divert ARC resources up there, it may not do as good a job at the lower frequencies. So try a few different settings to see if you can find a nice "compromise" setting that gives you the assistance you want at the high frequencies without causing too many wiggles to start appearing in the lower frequencies of the resulting Calculated curve. You can even push this Target all the way up to the max value of 20KHz to see what that does.


----------------------------------------------


The reason ARC defaults to only 5KHz is due to resource allocation (getting the bass and mid-range right is more important for most folks), and also because speaker directionality can cause ARC to hear misleading Measurements up there. The different mic positions will pick up results that differ due to directionality of the speakers rather than room characteristics, and ARC can't tell that this is happening.


So give a listen to the results you get after raising this Target, and see if you hear any problems in the high frequencies. Trust your ears. If you do, lower the Target a bit and try again.

--Bob
Finally made another measurement using ARC 2.0.1, advanced mode, 8 positions measured, Max EQ Frequency Target set to 15'000 Hz. Speakers are


Fronts: KEF Reference 205/2

Center: KEF Reference 205

Surround: B&O Beolab 8000

Sub: B&W PV1


Any comments? Bob? I think it looks better and sounds also better than before.

 

ARC2.0.1 15000Hz 230109.doc 195.5k . file


----------



## xtrips

Hello Bob,


I just did a remeasurement using 2.0.1 but thena I was wondering:

- do i still need to correct the bandwidth for my front speakers to 25 (instead of 45 which was auto detected)?

- do i still have to equalize the gain to the movie profile (the music was set to 1.9 whereas the movie was 3.9)?


Just to remind you my music profile is L+R only, no sub.


Thanks


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15626415
> 
> 
> I don't think there is a different introductory MSRP (USA) for the D2 than $7499. Several people are getting significant discounts from their dealers off of the $7499.
> 
> 
> As always the $7499 is the suggested retail price.
> 
> 
> Mike



Exactly and in these days of recession dealers are probably more open on discount. I got confirmation that the list price is $7499 in the US and 7999$ in Canada.


Now we need to get the price of the upgrade which is not finalized yet hopefully in a few weeks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15629979
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> I just did a remeasurement using 2.0.1 but thena I was wondering:
> 
> - do i still need to correct the bandwidth for my front speakers to 25 (instead of 45 which was auto detected)?
> 
> - do i still have to equalize the gain to the movie profile (the music was set to 1.9 whereas the movie was 3.9)?
> 
> 
> Just to remind you my music profile is L+R only, no sub.
> 
> 
> Thanks



ARC V2.0.1 will have set the crossovers in your no sub music configuration to full range (the "full range" check box will be checked), but you still should drop the "cutoffs" in the Targets window to 25Hz if you want to force ARC to use those speakers all the way down. The 45Hz cutoff it is using is not bad given that the crossovers have been disabled, so you might want to listen at 45Hz for a while and then try the experiment of lowering to 25Hz and listening to that. The "Full Range" check box should already by checked and grayed out (unchangeable) either way.


A Room Gain of 1.9 for Music might work well for you. I suggest you leave it that way and see how you like it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/15629794
> 
> 
> Finally made another measurement using ARC 2.0.1, advanced mode, 8 positions measured, Max EQ Frequency Target set to 15'000 Hz. Speakers are
> 
> 
> Fronts: KEF Reference 205/2
> 
> Center: KEF Reference 205
> 
> Surround: B&O Beolab 8000
> 
> Sub: B&W PV1
> 
> 
> Any comments? Bob? I think it looks better and sounds also better than before.



This is looking very good. Your high frequencies are fine.


Your bass is a little hot at 20Hz for LF/RF/C and your subwoofer (more than ARC can correct). In all 4 cases you may be seeing "Boundary Gain" due to the speaker being placed a bit too close to a solid wall or corner. Compare the green Calculated curve to the dashed Target curve at 20HHz.


Of those 4 only the LF, and possibly the subwoofer, appear to have enough residual error to even worry about. And I wouldn't angst too much over even those two. But if you plan on re-Measuring in the future, you might consider repositioning those a little further from the wall -- even inches matter.


I also note that ARC has decided the natural Room Gain of your room is fairly small. You can see this in the Targets window. Room Gain shows up as the hump in the Target (dashed) curve near the crossovers and it looks like ARC has decided to retain about 1-2dB of Room Gain. This is not bad, but if you decide your audio is not quite as full as you would like in the low mid-range or high bass then you can raise the Room Gain in the Targets window (say to 2.5dB or 3dB), accept that change, re-Calculate and re-Upload -- no need to re-Measure -- and see if you like that better.


But what you've got now should be sounding very good indeed, and the best advice is probably to just leave it that way for a while until you get used to just how good it sounds!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*************************************************************


**************** ARC V2.0.1 is now "Official"! *******************


*************************************************************


The most recent major update to Anthem's ARC software is now "official"! The software can be downloaded from the public download pages for the D1/D2, and for the AVM40/AVM50:


For the D1:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...pgrade_SW.html 


For the D2:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


For the AVM 40 and AVM 50 (shipped with ARC or upgraded to add the ARC DSP board):

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html 


The release notes for changes since the prior "official" version of ARC, V1.2.5, read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.0.1:
> 
> 
> 1. Added ARC to D2v and AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> 2. Change to how sub crossover frequency is selected to address cases where the sub is a lot closer to the listener than the center channel, causing dialog to be heard from the sub if its crossover was set high enough.
> 
> 
> 3. More settings available for configurations not using a subwoofer. Note that while the front channels will be set to Large in the setup menu, ARC will still create a low frequency contour on the room correction target based on response at those frequencies. This cutoff frequency, displayed in the Targets panel, is separate from the bass manager's crossover.
> 
> 
> 4. The Targets panel also has options for setting the processor's bass manager to run channels at full range. These are best left unchecked, especially for surround channels since surround speakers are usually smaller.
> 
> 
> 5. Selecting Rears for measurement is not allowed if Surrounds are unselected. (In a 5.1 system use Surround channels, not Rears.)
> 
> 
> 6. Improved measurement at very low frequencies. Since this relates to frequencies below the lowest note on a bass guitar, it may not make a difference depending on existing in-room response.
> 
> 
> 7. Improved measurement at very high frequencies.
> 
> 
> If you have a file measured with ARC v1.2 to v1.2.5, remeasurement is not necessary. To convert the file format just open the file with the latest version of ARC, calculate, and upload. If you are uploading a file created for an AVM 40, AVM 50, D1, or D2 to an AVM 50v or D2v, ARC will ask for confirmation that you want to convert the file for use with the newer model.



Please note that the downloaded folder also includes updated manuals for the new D2v and AVM 50v products for those that would like to get those PDF files. [The D2 and AVM40/AVM50 manuals are unchanged.]


The downloaded folder also includes updated specs for the RS-232 command set.


The downloaded folder also includes the new Settings Backup utility for saving and restoring your Setup menu settings via a PC file. CAUTION: Read the accompanying text file for instructions.


CAUTION: If you are updating ARC from a version older than V1.2, please carefully read and follow the installation instructions in the release notes to make sure your pair of licensing/calibration files end up getting installed into the correct (new) folder Anthem now uses in the Windows > Program Files.


If the firmware on your Anthem unit is older than V1.33, you should also update the Anthem firmware at this time. Firmware V1.33 installers can be downloaded from the same pages listed above. If you are updating from firmware older than V1.29j, special instructions will be found at the end of the ARC release notes to insure your Video Source Adjust menu settings get preserved.


---------------------------------------------------------------


Although the release notes say you can use an older Measurements file with ARC V2.0.1, my personal recommendation is that you do a careful re-Measurement pass with ARC V2.0.1 to make sure you have captured data that reflects the most recent configuration of your speakers and listening room. If it has been a while since you last did a Measurement pass, review the instructions in Section 3.15 of the updated users manual on mic positioning and placement. Careful attention to the details of mic positioning and placement will yield much better results.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

Guys, I'm looking for some advice and opinion on finding a dealer.


I have the possibility to buy from an out of state dealer that someone recommended to me.


I know Anthem are keen to drive people to their local dealer and I know they do not allow any kind of internet buying or selling.


I understand that buying locally means I always have an option to go and work with a real person if ever I need to (upgrade, warranty etc) - however it also seems that many people are dealing direct for things like upgrades.


So, the question is, what would stop me from buying from a remote dealer - would Anthem have a negative view on this and potentially deny me warranty service?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem's argument would be with the out-of-area dealer and not with you. As long as you have a receipt showing you purchased from an authorized Anthem dealer then you should be good to go -- just as if you purchased the unit while traveling.


My understanding is that Anthem's agreement with their dealers prohibits the dealer from shipping a unit out of the area assigned to that dealer.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In recognition of the new "official" status of ARC V2.0.1, Anthem tech support has re-jiggered their password protected download page.


The ARC stuff is now in "Link 2", and two new "test" folders have been created which are currently both empty. Moving the ARC stuff to Link 2 advanced its last modified date to today, but as best I can tell there are not actually any changes in there. It is the same content as what's in the "official" download folder from the public download page.


There are still no release notes for the V2.0.1 "test" firmware releases for the D2v or AVM 50v.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Settings Backup utility added to "Official" V1.33 Firmware Download Folders.*


The "official" V1.33 firmware download folders have also been updated on Anthem's public download pages (see the links in the V2.0.1 post just above). The Settings Backup utility has been added. Again, this utility allows you to save/restore your Setup menu settings via a PC file. This utility is also included in the ARC V2.0.1 download folder.


NOTE: The RS-232 command set specifications also present in this folder remain the older version. However since all of the changes in the newer version (found in the ARC V2.0.1 download folder) are for only the D2v and AVM 50v hardware, this is really not an issue.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15633015
> 
> 
> Guys, I'm looking for some advice and opinion on finding a dealer.
> 
> 
> I have the possibility to buy from an out of state dealer that someone recommended to me.
> 
> 
> I know Anthem are keen to drive people to their local dealer and I know they do not allow any kind of internet buying or selling.
> 
> 
> I understand that buying locally means I always have an option to go and work with a real person if ever I need to (upgrade, warranty etc) - however it also seems that many people are dealing direct for things like upgrades.
> 
> 
> So, the question is, what would stop me from buying from a remote dealer - would Anthem have a negative view on this and potentially deny me warranty service?



The only reason I could see you choosing a remote dealer is if that dealer is offering you better deal. A deal so good it would be worth the drive. Have you approached your local dealer and asked if they can match or at least come close the remote dealers price? I received the price you said you were quoted via PM (thanks for the info). If that's the price the remote dealer can get you a D2v for... there's no decision to make. Tell your wife to pack up the kids because you guys are heading out on a road trip.


----------



## barhoram

Saw some posts a while back on heat concerns...and keeping your D2 cool. Thought I would pass on this info as to what I did. My unit was running slightly hot in the rack...so I purchaced one of these from Parts Express:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=305-210 


It is smaller than it looks in the picture and can be set directly on your D2 right over the spot that the power supply makes the hottest. The real nice thing is that it can be powered off of the 12V trigger...so no extra wiring needed. Set up the D2 to turn it On and Off with the processor. Runs much cooler!



Also, anyone interesed in a serial-usb converter that has been tested to work with the D2, let me know. I just got a new laptop...with...drumroll...a serial port!







No need for mine anymore.


Now, off to download the new goodies from the Anthem site! TGIF!!


Andrew


----------



## spiderv6

Order is in......


Why don't Anthem offer a next hour delivery option????!!!!


----------



## tngiloy

Anyone else having problems getting thru to the Anthem website?

Everyone must be downloading the official versions now!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15635382
> 
> 
> Order is in......
> 
> 
> Why don't Anthem offer a next hour delivery option????!!!!



Good cooking takes time.


*sings* "ANN-TICCC-II-PAAA-TIOONN...."

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

I downloaded the new version of ARC. I did not do a full remeasurement. I just loaded in my last measurement file from 1.2.5 and did Auto Detect, Calculate, and Upload. When I did Auto Detect, my x-overs went from:


1.2.5 2.0.1

Mains = 40 60

Center = 90 80

Surrounds = 75 60

Rears = 90 60

Sub = 120 120


When I uploaded my results, everything looked the same except for the x-over for my sub for music. It was set to 55; however, in the Target Window, it was set to 120 for the x-over for music.


Anyway, I am listening to it now, and I like what I am hearing so far. I have my max freq. set to 20khz, and the graph looks smoother across the entire frequencies compared to 1.2.5.


----------



## zr123

Has anyone placed an order for the AVM 50v?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15636405
> 
> 
> I downloaded the new version of ARC. I did not do a full remeasurement. I just loaded in my last measurement file from 1.2.5 and did Auto Detect, Calculate, and Upload. When I did Auto Detect, my x-overs went from:
> 
> 
> 1.2.5 2.0.1
> 
> Mains = 40 60
> 
> Center = 90 80
> 
> Surrounds = 75 60
> 
> Rears = 90 60
> 
> Sub = 120 120
> 
> 
> When I uploaded my results, everything looked the same except for the x-over for my sub for music. It was set to 55; however, in the Target Window, it was set to 120 for the x-over for music.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I am listening to it now, and I like what I am hearing so far. I have my max freq. set to 20khz, and the graph looks smoother across the entire frequencies compared to 1.2.5.



Again, it is normal for there to be variation between V1.2.5 and V2.0.1 targets. If you are using an old Measurement file, this will happen after you do an Auto Detect in the Targets window. V2.0.1 allows the room correction "cutoffs" (displayed in the Targets window) to differ from the bass management crossovers (as uploaded into the Setup menu). V1.2.5 required them to stay the same. This extra flexibility in V2.0.1 allows for better room correction solutions. See the explanatory text in the Targets window.

--Bob


----------



## snweiler

I talked to my dealer today about getting a 50v but he was only offering 6% off of list. I told him that wasn't enough and that I would wait to see how much the upgrade is priced at. He seemed astounded when I told him people here were talking about 20% off list for the D2v.


Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've completed my new set of ARC V2.0.1 Measurements and I've Uploaded the Calculation done at 20KHz. No problems, no surprises. So far it sounds great but I've just started listening.


I've still got a bit of an uncorrected dip in the Center speaker at 100Hz that is likely due to the way it is mounted, and my sub is still a hair too hot at 20Hz due to Boundary Gain (it is in a solid-walled corner). But both are minor enough that I'm not going to even try to futz with them. Time to declare victory!


Here are my charts. In this setup ARC set my Crossovers to match the "cutoffs" shown in the Targets window except for the subwoofer. The Movie sub crossover was set to 70Hz and the Music sub crossover to 65Hz. ARC found essentially the same Room Gain for Movie and Music -- both of which are about 0.8 dB below what ARC V1.2.5 found.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

Bob did you do a remeasure for your new charts ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snweiler* /forum/post/15637224
> 
> 
> I talked to my dealer today about getting a 50v but he was only offering 6% off of list. I told him that wasn't enough and that I would wait to see how much the upgrade is priced at. He seemed astounded when I told him people here were talking about 20% off list for the D2v.
> 
> 
> Steve



Steve,


Seeing is believing. I have found that people like to gloat about how much they are getting off of the msrp.


But, a few points need to be taken into consideration: (i) some of us (like myself) have been dealing with some AV dealers for several decades and are being rewarded for loyalty, and (ii) the state of the retail business is generally abysmal so all types of retailers are offering discounts of greater variety. I see tenants (I am in the real estate business) of all types seeking temporary rental discounts in this terrible economy, so I can understand that discounts that may not have previously existed, are now available. Of course, I went into my really hi-end hi fi shop (Meridian, MacIntosh, etc.) and discounts are the same as previously offered (small) as their clientele allows them to avoid the discounts that are now appearing at smaller less exclusive AV retailers. So, let's take advantage of the varying discounts while they exist because I hope they will not be so large for too long, because then we will all be better off economically.


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15635382
> 
> 
> Order is in......
> 
> 
> Why don't Anthem offer a next hour delivery option????!!!!



Congrats... I ordered mine yesterday as well. Now the wait begins...


----------



## jayray

Bob,

How do you display both movie and music charts?

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15636849
> 
> 
> Again, it is normal for there to be variation between V1.2.5 and V2.0.1 targets. If you are using an old Measurement file, this will happen after you do an Auto Detect in the Targets window. V2.0.1 allows the room correction "cutoffs" (displayed in the Targets window) to differ from the bass management crossovers (as uploaded into the Setup menu). V1.2.5 required them to stay the same. This extra flexibility in V2.0.1 allows for better room correction solutions. See the explanatory text in the Targets window.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I did remember you mentioning that was normal in one of your earlier post. I should have said that. My bad. Anyway, thanks for restating it again. I will probably do a full remeasurement tonight with v2.0.1 to see if I see anything different. So far, so GOOD!!!!!! SWEET!!!!!!


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15637645
> 
> 
> I've completed my new set of ARC V2.0.1 Measurements and I've Uploaded the Calculation done at 20KHz. No problems, no surprises. So far it sounds great but I've just started listening.
> 
> 
> I've still got a bit of an uncorrected dip in the Center speaker at 100Hz that is likely due to the way it is mounted, and my sub is still a hair too hot at 20Hz due to Boundary Gain (it is in a solid-walled corner). But both are minor enough that I'm not going to even try to futz with them. Time to declare victory!
> 
> 
> Here are my charts. In this setup ARC set my Crossovers to match the "cutoffs" shown in the Targets window except for the subwoofer. The Movie sub crossover was set to 70Hz and the Music sub crossover to 65Hz. ARC found essentially the same Room Gain for Movie and Music -- both of which are about 0.8 dB below what ARC V1.2.5 found.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I noticed that you are dead on at 75db. Do you use the RS SPL Meter? If so, what do you calibrate to 80db? I am wondering because I use the RS SPL Meter, and when I calibrate to 75db it shows in ARC between 71 to 72. If you do use the RS SPL Meter, do you use the digital or the analog one? I don't know if that matters; but, I am just curious. I think in order for mine to reach 75db in ARC, I will probably have to calibrate at 80db.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15638336
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> How do you display both movie and music charts?
> 
> John



You can't display them at the same time. You can view one or the other. Select which to view in the View menuu.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

As always thanks Bob.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15638526
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I noticed that you are dead on at 75db. Do you use the RS SPL Meter? If so, what do you calibrate to 80db? I am wondering because I use the RS SPL Meter, and when I calibrate to 75db it shows in ARC between 71 to 72. If you do use the RS SPL Meter, do you use the digital or the analog one? I don't know if that matters; but, I am just curious. I think in order for mine to reach 75db in ARC, I will probably have to calibrate at 80db.



I use Radio Shack's digital SPL meter set on the 70dB range with slow response and "C" weighting. Point it straight up at seated ear height at the ARC mic #1 position and hold or mount it at least arm's length away from your body. The analog meter should work just as well although I'm not sure the 70dB range setting is the right one for that instead of 80dB -- pick whichever range setting puts 75dB in the middle of that range.


Zero out all the settings in Setup > Speaker Calibration. The only ones that really matter are that LF is zero before you set Noise Level and that the sub setting is zero before you set the sub's internal volume control, but for simplicity just zero them all out.


Now set Noise Level to produce the SPL level you choose (I recommend 75dB) and then go down to the sub line and, leaving that at zero, adjust the sub's own, built-in volume control to produce that same SPL level. ARC uses Noise Level to adjust the volume of its test sweep tones, and adjusting the sub's internal volume control this way insures the sub can easily be volume trimmed by ARC to match up with the other speakers.


Ballpark settings are fine. ARC does the fine adjustments and Uploads all the required, precise speaker levels (except for Noise Level which it leaves unchanged).


As it turns out, this time I used a Noise Level of +2.0dB and that resulted in an SPL of 76dB when setting Noise Level (which uses the LF speaker to produce the tone) and 77dB from the sub using the very low volume setting on the sub I've been using for many months now. [For those interested, my Velodyne DD sub volume is set to 6 in a range from 1 to 50.]


As you note, that produced a 75dB basic level in ARC for me -- not 76 or 77. Why? Just luck really. ARC varies the basic level a bit as part of developing its best solution.


To give you an idea of how much is going on inside of ARC, my Uploaded speaker level for LF is +2.5dB. Now with a Noise Level still set at +2.0dB, and a pre-ARC SPL of 76dB from that, this should mean my LF is running hot -- at 78.5dB. But it isn't! Why? Because the REAL level ARC puts out for any speaker is the combo of the speaker level in Setup plus the effect of the Room Correction processing -- which will typically be set to use cuts more than boosts because cuts are more effective.


In addition, ARC uses a wider frequency range than is present in the Setup > Speaker Calibration test tone to determine the best basic level for the ARC results for each speaker.


----------------------------------------------


If you were planning on 75dB and ARC produced 72dB then you are fine. a 3dB difference in the basic level isn't worth worrying about. If you do decide to do another Measurement, try raising Noise Level a bit -- say 1.5dB -- and see what you get.


If ARC is producing a basic level that is +/- 5dB different from what you are planning (or more) than you should probably re-do the Noise Level and Measurement as that's enough difference to bias the quality of what ARC is hearing in its test sweep tones -- particularly if ARC is low.


ETA: Also make sure your SPL meter has fresh batteries!

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15639688
> 
> 
> I use Radio Shack's digital SPL meter set on the 70dB range with slow response and "C" weighting. Point it straight up at seated ear height at the ARC mic #1 position and hold or mount it at least arm's length away from your body. The analog meter should work just as well although I'm not sure the 70dB range setting is the right one for that instead of 80dB -- pick whichever range setting puts 75dB in the middle of that range.
> 
> 
> Zero out all the settings in Setup > Speaker Calibration. The only ones that really matter are that LF is zero before you set Noise Level and that the sub setting is zero before you set the sub's internal volume control, but for simplicity just zero them all out.
> 
> 
> Now set Noise Level to produce the SPL level you choose (I recommend 75dB) and then go down to the sub line and, leaving that at zero, adjust the sub's own, built-in volume control to produce that same SPL level. ARC uses Noise Level to adjust the volume of its test sweep tones, and adjusting the sub's internal volume control this way insures the sub can easily be volume trimmed by ARC to match up with the other speakers.
> 
> 
> Ballpark settings are fine. ARC does the fine adjustments and Uploads all the required, precise speaker levels (except for Noise Level which it leaves unchanged).
> 
> 
> As it turns out, this time I used a Noise Level of +2.0dB and that resulted in an SPL of 76dB when setting Noise Level (which uses the LF speaker to produce the tone) and 77dB from the sub using the very low volume setting on the sub I've been using for many months now. [For those interested, my Velodyne DD sub volume is set to 6 in a range from 1 to 50.]
> 
> 
> As you note, that produced a 75dB basic level in ARC for me -- not 76 or 77. Why? Just luck really. ARC varies the basic level a bit as part of developing its best solution.
> 
> 
> To give you an idea of how much is going on inside of ARC, my Uploaded speaker level for LF is +2.5dB. Now with a Noise Level still set at +2.0dB, and a pre-ARC SPL of 76dB from that, this should mean my LF is running hot -- at 78.5dB. But it isn't! Why? Because the REAL level ARC puts out for any speaker is the combo of the speaker level in Setup plus the effect of the Room Correction processing -- which will typically be set to use cuts more than boosts because cuts are more effective.
> 
> 
> In addition, ARC uses a wider frequency range than is present in the Setup > Speaker Calibration test tone to determine the best basic level for the ARC results for each speaker.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you were planning on 75dB and ARC produced 72dB then you are fine. a 3dB difference in the basic level isn't worth worrying about. If you do decide to do another Measurement, try raising Noise Level a bit -- say 1.5dB -- and see what you get.
> 
> 
> If ARC is producing a basic level that is +/- 5dB different from what you are planning (or more) than you should probably re-do the Noise Level and Measurement as that's enough difference to bias the quality of what ARC is hearing in its test sweep tones -- particularly if ARC is low.
> 
> 
> ETA: Also make sure your SPL meter has fresh batteries!
> 
> --Bob



I use the RS Digital SPL Meter too. I also mount mine on a tripod and calibrate to 75db, slow, C weight at ear height at mic #1 position. Well, I will just trust what ARC is doing because whatever it's doing it's really sounding good.


As always, I appreciate you taking the time to respond.


----------



## cecaa850

Hey Bob, here are the charts (I hope) from my first attempt at ARC. You were going to look at them for me and see why I have some harshness issues. Thanks, Carl

 

arc charts.doc 223.5k . file


----------



## cecaa850

Looks like I need to try one of the pages again.


----------



## cecaa850

I think I got all the screens this time.

 

arc charts.doc 223.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/15641063
> 
> 
> I think I got all the screens this time.



OK this looks fine for a first try and your bass and low mid-range should be sounding a LOT better already.


Your mid-range looks good as well, but your highs need some help.


--------------------------------------------------


First, your volume levels are fine. No need to do anything there. What I've been calling your basic level is 74dB.


Next, your sub is working well down to 30Hz (where it's green Calculated line crosses the basic level as the frequency drops towards 20Hz). This is not bad at all. You might get additional boost at frequencies below that by repositioning it nearer to a wall or corner to get Boundary Gain. There are subs that can go deeper to pick up the subsonics at 20Hz and below, but as I said, 30Hz is not bad.


The Room Gain that ARC is preserving in your setup looks reasonable -- this shows as the hump in the targets curve near the crossover frequencies.


OK, so what's next? Well all of your speakers look like they could use some help in the high frequencies.


The first thing to do is to consider how they are mounted, pointed. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, the vertical pointing is the thing to check as many speakers have rather poor vertical dispersion of high frequencies compared to their horizontal dispersion. The front speakers should be toed in a little towards the center position -- not too far -- try around 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular towards the center.


Next consider your mic placement during Measurement. You want the mic pointed straight up and at seated ear height for each position. Make sure the mic tip is not adjacent to reflective surfaces like walls or seat backs. Raise the tip a bit or move it a foot or so closer to the screen to get it away from seat backs. The mic #1 position must be dead center at the preferred seating distance. Subsequent mic positions should alternate either side of center. Choose positions such that no pair of positions, whether or not they are sequential, are closer than 24 inches. For example:


4..............5

.\\............/

...2 - 1 - 3


All of this is intended to help ARC get good Measured curves that reflect what you will actually hear while seated and to minimize directionality that affects high frequency response from speakers more than low frequencies.


Be sure your listening room is configured the way you would use it for normal use. In particular curtains opened/closed, furniture positioning, and doors opened/closed.


--------------------------------------------------


Don't expect all of the problems in your red Measured curves to go away. You are just trying to get the best, most representative Measurements. ARC will take it from there.


Now the next thing to know is that ARC, by default, stops doing Room Correction at 5KHz. You can raise this limit in the Targets window -- the Max EQ Frequency value. Accept that change (which also dismisses the Targets window) and do a new Calculation to see how the results change. If you like what you see, Upload these new results -- no need to re-Measure.


Your current set of Measurements looks like they could use help from ARC up there. I'd try doing a set of Calculations between 15KHz and 20KHz. What you are looking for is how high you can go -- i.e., how much improvement you can get up there -- without introducing too much additional residual error at lower frequencies.


--------------------------------------


Now ARC will only provide up to 6dB of correction up there to keep from straining your amps and speakers. Some of your speakers need 10dB of correction up there. So if you can improve your Measured curves by repointing/repositioning your speakers and by proper mic placement, ARC may be able to come closer to perfection.


--------------------------------------


Your Left Rear speaker also has a bit of under-correction at 150Hz due to a large room cancellation null it is seeing. But the residual error is only about 2dB so I wouldn't even worry about that one.

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850

Thanks Bob, I'll reread and digest. I'm going to remeasure with the mic at closer to ear level (4" lower) and in the proper order as per your diagram. One thing I really didn't understand in the sub graph and in your comments. My sub is an IB with four 18" long excursion drivers that will do 110 dB at the listening position at 10 Hz (120db at 20Hz). Why is it showing output only to 30 hz?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/15641532
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I'll reread and digest. I'm going to remeasure with the mic at closer to ear level (4" lower) and in the proper order as per your diagram. One thing I really didn't understand in the sub graph and in your comments. My sub is an IB with four 18" long excursion drivers that will do 110 dB at the listening position at 10 Hz (120db at 20Hz). Why is it showing output only to 30 hz?



Check to make sure you don't have a subsonic filter turned in your sub that may be cutting off the lowest frequencies.


The red Measured curve for your sub shows what it is actually doing down there. As you can see, this is not something that ARC is doing -- it really does drop off down there.

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850

How low does the test tone go?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/15641850
> 
> 
> How low does the test tone go?



The sweep tones used by ARC start at 5Hz according to Nick.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

I have been away for the past month. Is the new D2v V2.02 for current D2 units? With the "v" in the header, I was not sure.


----------



## cecaa850

Bob, here's the second set of measurements. These were taken with the mic closer to ear height and in the proper back and forth sequence. I haven't changed the upper filter limit just yet. I'm about to listen to them. How do they look now?


I'm still puzzled about the sub. It doesn't look like it's going that low, but when I (used to) watch a movie, the really low inaudible bass was great, but now not so. The last Batman movie's bass would shake the ceiling fans in the adjacent rooms. I tried it with the BFD in bypass the first time and engaged this time. maybe I shoild get out my sine wave CD and try some below 20 stuff to see if it will reproduce it that way. Something has to be wrong.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/15642233
> 
> 
> I have been away for the past month. Is the new D2v V2.02 for current D2 units? With the "v" in the header, I was not sure.



ARC V2.0.1 on Anthem's public download pages is for all versions of the hardware that support ARC.


The V2.02 firmware on Anthem's password protected download page is only for the new D2v and AVM 50v hardware.


The latest firmware for the original D2 and AVM 50 hardware remains V1.33 -- also found on the public download pages.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Well you can now add me the declaring Victory club. Did measurement with 2.01 and the sound is now magnificent. LFE is truly subsonic and the highs are superb. Sound stage has increased slightly and I have saved my results in User and Installer







All curves are now almost identical to the Targets. I did not change the 0 gain for music this time and left ARC to decide everything. I allowed ARC to do its thing, and the results speak for themselves. Music soundstage has expanded quite a bit with the last measurements.

When looking at your results, go to view and uncheck 'show measured'. I find it easier to see my results.

John


----------



## cecaa850

First listen with the new measurements sounds promising. Not near as harsh in the upper registers and voices are still clear as a bell. I don't think my bass is back yet, I need to select a few different clips.


I noticed I have to turn it up higher now to get the same SPL as pre-ARC. Is there a way to turn the "master volume up"?


----------



## tngiloy









I tried, and think I was able to save my video settings earlier today. I clicked on each of the different inputs (dvd1, dvd2, sat1,etc.) and downloaded them all, then saved. Everthing seemed to go well. I tried to open the video settings file just now and it opens up internet explorer, then shows a window asking if I want to run or open. No matter if I choose run or open, it just cycles back to internet explorer and the same window asking if I want to run or open.

I also had used the 'd2 settings' program, downloaded from my D2. Seemed to run OK. When I try to open it I get a message that I don't have the correct program to open it.

What am I doing wrong? Do I need to have my d2 connected to the computer? Do these programs not work with vista? WTF am I doing wrong?

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/15642676
> 
> 
> Bob, here's the second set of measurements. These were taken with the mic closer to ear height and in the proper back and forth sequence. I haven't changed the upper filter limit just yet. I'm about to listen to them. How do they look now?
> 
> 
> I'm still puzzled about the sub. It doesn't look like it's going that low, but when I (used to) watch a movie, the really low inaudible bass was great, but now not so. The last Batman movie's bass would shake the ceiling fans in the adjacent rooms. I tried it with the BFD in bypass the first time and engaged this time. maybe I shoild get out my sine wave CD and try some below 20 stuff to see if it will reproduce it that way. Something has to be wrong.



The sub issue aside, I think what you need to do next is try some Calculations with a raised Max EQ Frequency target value. I think you'll get good results.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15642838
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried, and think I was able to save my video settings earlier today. I clicked on each of the different inputs (dvd1, dvd2, sat1,etc.) and downloaded them all, then saved. Everthing seemed to go well. I tried to open the video settings file just now and it opens up internet explorer, then shows a window asking if I want to run or open. No matter if I choose run or open, it just cycles back to internet explorer and the same window asking if I want to run or open.
> 
> I also had used the 'd2 settings' program, downloaded from my D2. Seemed to run OK. When I try to open it I get a message that I don't have the correct program to open it.
> 
> What am I doing wrong? Do I need to have my d2 connected to the computer? Do these programs not work with vista? WTF am I doing wrong?
> 
> Tom



Don't click on the file to open it.


Run the Settings Backup or the Live Video Settings Editor programs and access the saved settings files from inside the program.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/15642821
> 
> 
> First listen with the new measurements sounds promising. Not near as harsh in the upper registers and voices are still clear as a bell. I don't think my bass is back yet, I need to select a few different clips.
> 
> 
> I noticed I have to turn it up higher now to get the same SPL as pre-ARC. Is there a way to turn the "master volume up"?



If you haven't already done so, go into Setup > Source Setup for each of your input sources and make sure Room EQ is ON. That's what turns on the ARC Room Correction stuff for each input source (i.e., enables that source to use the ARC results you have Uploaded).


There's no "master volume". Just get used to playing things at a louder main volume setting if you wish.

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15642846
> 
> 
> The sub issue aside, I think what you need to do next is try some Calculations with a raised Max EQ Frequency target value. I think you'll get good results.
> 
> --Bob



You do that in the advanced mode correct? I'll try that next.


I noticed that ARC set my sub to -5.5. For grins I ran it up to -2.0. It helped some but it's not there yet. I put in the scene in Pearl Harbor where Cuba Gooding is on the 50 cal machine gun. Normally you can feel each shot in your chest when you listen to it. That sensation isn't there anymore. I'll rerun with upped Max EQ and see if that does anything.


ARC is on in each source.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/15642993
> 
> 
> You do that in the advanced mode correct? I'll try that next.
> 
> 
> I noticed that ARC set my sub to -5.5. For grins I ran it up to -2.0. It helped some but it's not there yet. I put in the scene in Pearl Harbor where Cuba Gooding is on the 50 cal machine gun. Normally you can feel each shot in your chest when you listen to it. That sensation isn't there anymore. I'll rerun with upped Max EQ and see if that does anything.
> 
> 
> ARC is on in each source.



One thing I noticed with ARC is that LFE changes with some scenes in movies. That is, some sound less "thumpy" and other scenes sound much better. As ARC tames the curves, it alters how some scenes sounded before, for the better. I noticed in Fifth Element, the opening scene had thunderous LFE before ARC and now just sounds very tight but less oomph. I figure some nodes previously there are now gone and this is what boosted these scenes LFE levels.

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15642871
> 
> 
> Don't click on the file to open it.
> 
> 
> Run the Settings Backup or the Live Video Settings Editor programs and access the saved settings files from inside the program.
> 
> --Bob



I admit I'm a computer moron, but I have no idea how to run a program without opening it. Please put it in terms that a moron would understand.

Tom


----------



## duckwood

Just wanted to let you all know I picked up my D2V today from Craig at Theatermax. Didn't see anyone post that they had one yet or even knew they were shipping. Mine came in Thursday. As usual he gave me a good deal.


Looking forward to getting it hooked into the system tomorrow. Hope the images load.


duckwood


----------



## dlynch34

Ok maybe some input if at all possible. I am hoping my issue is with my amp and not the d2. It seems that my right channel is very weak and the left side dominant on. Right side meaning right front speaker. The speaker itself is fine as I went and swapped them out and got the same issue so I know its my right channel. I suspect its the right channel amp which is still under warranty but not entirely sure yet. I took out the cables on the right and left of the d2 shut off the amp reset the amp and both seem to be working. However after shutting everything down and coming back a few hours later I got the same problem. I went through the same steps and I have both channels up again.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15643131
> 
> 
> Just wanted to let you all know I picked up my D2V today from Craig at Theatermax. Didn't see anyone post that they had one yet or even knew they were shipping. Mine came in Thursday. As usual he gave me a good deal.
> 
> 
> Looking forward to getting it hooked into the system tomorrow. Hope the images load.
> 
> 
> duckwood



Congrats. I would give you some dancing mascots but that is left to a few worthy members B.P and Dr. H

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15643099
> 
> 
> I admit I'm a computer moron, but I have no idea how to run a program without opening it. Please put it in terms that a moron would understand.
> 
> Tom



Nevermind. I figured it out.

Tom


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15642780
> 
> 
> The latest firmware for the original D2 and AVM 50 hardware remains V1.33 -- also found on the public download pages.



Has Anthem given any indication that they will support the D2 beyond 1.33. As 1.33 continues to have HDMI handshake issues. Big Time!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15643099
> 
> 
> I admit I'm a computer moron, but I have no idea how to run a program without opening it. Please put it in terms that a moron would understand.
> 
> Tom



The same way you ran the program when you created the saved settings file in the first place. Go to the folder containing the program and double click on the program.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/15643240
> 
> 
> Has Anthem given any indication that they will support the D2 beyond 1.33. As 1.33 continues to have HDMI handshake issues. Big Time!



There's at least a V1.34 in the works.


And Nick tells me they are still working on a newer version of HDMI code for it as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15643131
> 
> 
> Just wanted to let you all know I picked up my D2V today from Craig at Theatermax. Didn't see anyone post that they had one yet or even knew they were shipping. Mine came in Thursday. As usual he gave me a good deal.
> 
> 
> Looking forward to getting it hooked into the system tomorrow. Hope the images load.
> 
> 
> duckwood



Congratulations! Yours is the first post in this thread from someone who has actually taken delivery of a new D2v!











ETA: Oh, and Welcome to the cool kids thread!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/15643133
> 
> 
> Ok maybe some input if at all possible. I am hoping my issue is with my amp and not the d2. It seems that my right channel is very weak and the left side dominant on. Right side meaning right front speaker. The speaker itself is fine as I went and swapped them out and got the same issue so I know its my right channel. I suspect its the right channel amp which is still under warranty but not entirely sure yet. I took out the cables on the right and left of the d2 shut off the amp reset the amp and both seem to be working. However after shutting everything down and coming back a few hours later I got the same problem. I went through the same steps and I have both channels up again.



Don, the amp channel giving you the problem may be going into low power mode for thermal protection or some such.


Anyway it is easy to demonstrate it is not the D2. Simply swap the outputs from the D2 for that channel with any other channel. If the low volume stays in the same speaker then it must be the amp or speaker and since you have already eliminated the speaker as the problem then it must be the amp.


If the low volume moves to the other speaker involved in that swap then you have to do some more work to see what's going on.

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
The sub issue aside, I think what you need to do next is try some Calculations with a raised Max EQ Frequency target value. I think you'll get good results.

--Bob
I tried values from 10 to 20k and settled on 12k. It took the nasty hump out that I had at 10k. Running it up higher didn't seem to change much of anything else so I backed it down to 12k. I've loaded it into the D2 and am about to see how it sounds. How does it look to you?


Carl


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cecaa850* /forum/post/15643426
> 
> 
> I tried values from 10 to 20k and settled on 12k. It took the nasty hump out that I had at 10k. Running it up higher didn't seem to change much of anything else so I backed it down to 12k. I've loaded it into the D2 and am about to see how it sounds. How does it look to you?
> 
> 
> Carl



That could be a good compromise. The Center speaker in particular is already showing some degradation at lower frequencies when you run ARC at 12KHz.


Of course you've got that big dip at 15KHz that would be nice to at least halve if not completely eliminate.


Anyway, the main thing is to trust your ears on this. If the 12KHz sounds best then that's the one to use.

--Bob


----------



## cecaa850




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15643499
> 
> 
> Anyway, the main thing is to trust your ears on this. If the 12KHz sounds best then that's the one to use.
> 
> --Bob



I just put in the Blueray disc of Phantom of the Opera and listened to the character "Christine" sing "Think of me". It was incredible. I'll leave the 12k setting for now.


----------



## ninja12

I have completed a full re-measurement with ARC v2.0.1. So far, I am liking what I am hearing. I changed Max EQ Frequency to 20khz and forced a room gain of 3.5. One thing to point out is that even though the Target Window shows 120 for the subwoofer, it uploaded 75 for Movie and 60 for Music which is normal for v2.0.1.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15643927
> 
> 
> I have completed a full re-measurement with ARC v2.0.1. So far, I am liking what I am hearing. I changed Max EQ Frequency to 20khz and forced a room gain of 3.5. One thing to point out is that even though the Target Window shows 120 for the subwoofer, it uploaded 75 for Movie and 60 for Music which is normal for v2.0.1.



Very nice, indeed! I'm not surprised these results sound good.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

My laptop has 2 USB ports but no RS-232 connection so I'm wondering how everybody is connecting their laptop for ARC.


The manual says that a USB-Serial adapter is the least preferred option and if you do use one, you need to make sure you get an adapter that supports two stop bits.


What experience are people having? Any recommendations on an adapter that works?


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15643131
> 
> 
> Just wanted to let you all know I picked up my D2V today from Craig at Theatermax. Didn't see anyone post that they had one yet or even knew they were shipping. Mine came in Thursday. As usual he gave me a good deal.
> 
> 
> Looking forward to getting it hooked into the system tomorrow. Hope the images load.
> 
> 
> duckwood



Congrats. This confirms that they are not only shipping, but being delivered!


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15643131
> 
> 
> Just wanted to let you all know I picked up my D2V today from Craig at Theatermax. Didn't see anyone post that they had one yet or even knew they were shipping. Mine came in Thursday. As usual he gave me a good deal.
> 
> 
> Looking forward to getting it hooked into the system tomorrow. Hope the images load.
> 
> 
> duckwood



First impressions? Review?


----------



## schlitzie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15645367
> 
> 
> My laptop has 2 USB ports but no RS-232 connection so I'm wondering how everybody is connecting their laptop for ARC.
> 
> 
> The manual says that a USB-Serial adapter is the least preferred option and if you do use one, you need to make sure you get an adapter that supports two stop bits.
> 
> 
> What experience are people having? Any recommendations on an adapter that works?



I'm using one that I got from monoprice. works fine


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15645367
> 
> 
> My laptop has 2 USB ports but no RS-232 connection so I'm wondering how everybody is connecting their laptop for ARC.
> 
> 
> The manual says that a USB-Serial adapter is the least preferred option and if you do use one, you need to make sure you get an adapter that supports two stop bits.
> 
> 
> What experience are people having? Any recommendations on an adapter that works?



I connect my serial cable, from the back of my D2, to a Keyspan USB Serial Adapter (USA-19HS). Then I connect the Keyspan to the USB connection on my computer. Amazon has them for $30.78. I have not had any problems with it since I had it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15645367
> 
> 
> My laptop has 2 USB ports but no RS-232 connection so I'm wondering how everybody is connecting their laptop for ARC.
> 
> 
> The manual says that a USB-Serial adapter is the least preferred option and if you do use one, you need to make sure you get an adapter that supports two stop bits.
> 
> 
> What experience are people having? Any recommendations on an adapter that works?



Some people are using a "PC card" to add a serial port to their laptop.


Many (including me) are using the Keyspan USA-19HS USB to serial adapter (about $31 from Amazon). Be sure to check on Keyspan's support site to see whether the driver that comes in the package is the most up to date driver for your version of Windows. If necessary, download and install the latest driver. Plug the adapter into a USB port on your laptop and run a "straight through" serial cable (pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9 directly, with no pair swapped) to your Anthem. You can leave the serial cable plugged into the back of your Anthem permanently -- coiled neatly out of the way when not using it. This same setup works for doing firmware installs in your Anthem.

http://www.tripplite.com/EN/support/...-downloads.cfm 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DUCKWOOD,

When you get your new Anthem Statement D2v powered up, please report what version of firmware was factory installed in it.


Press Select once on the remote and read the firmware version from the end of the first line of info displayed in the Front Panel display or the On-Screen display. It will likely be V2.02 but we need to confirm that.


When you get the ARC application installed on your Windows PC, please also report the version of ARC that came bundled with your D2v. Run ARC in "advanced" mode and choose the "About" item from the Help menu. It will likely be V2.0.1 but we need to confirm that.


Thanks!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

And just like that this thread retakes the lead for the thread with the most posts -- beating out those upstart Onkyos!










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As long as we are revisiting ARC related accessories, I'm going to put another plug in for this lightweight boom-arm mic stand to replace the simple, straight pole stand provided by Anthem:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...icrophone.html 


It works great for positioning the mic when you need to reach over a chair cushion, chair arm, or sofa back. The mic clip at the end of the Anthem provided stand screws onto the end of the boom arm of this stand. The legs fold in for compact storage and spread flat enough in use to easily fit under adjacent furniture as necessary.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15645367
> 
> 
> Any recommendations on an adapter that works?



Thanks guys - Keyspan it is!


----------



## lalarsons

As mentioned in several posts, ARC mic positioning is important for more accurate measurement in each seating position. These booms and others(various price points) can be used with the existing stand to allow greater range of mic positioning.

http://www.fullcompass.com/product/259396.html 
http://www.fullcompass.com/product/297761.html


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15646923
> 
> 
> As long as we are revisiting ARC related accessories, I'm going to put another plug in for this lightweight boom-arm mic stand to replace the simple, straight pole stand provided by Anthem:
> 
> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...icrophone.html
> 
> 
> It works great for positioning the mic when you need to reach over a chair cushion, chair arm, or sofa back. The mic clip at the end of the Anthem provided stand screws onto the end of the boom arm of this stand. The legs fold in for compact storage and spread flat enough in use to easily fit under adjacent furniture as necessary.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the info on this mic stand Bob. Just finished placing my order for it. I'm getting tired of using pillows to prop up my mic on my sectional sofa in four out of the five positions. This should make the process alot quicker. Looking forward to updating to the latest version of ARC.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've got an email in to Nick at Anthem asking whether there are any notable differences in the way ARC is implemented in the D2v or AVM 50v at the moment. In particular I'm trying to find out whether folks should expect differences in Target values, values uploaded into the Setup menu, or Calculated results curves due, perhaps, to extra ARC processing resources in the new units.


I suspect the answer, at least for now, will be no -- that folks migrating from ARC V2.0.1 on an old unit should expect the same results with ARC V2.0.1 on a new unit, but we'll see what he says.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sometimes Google is a little scary. The following link shows a weekly backorder report for Paradigm and Anthem products. Turns out it is publicly posted on the site of one of the dealer reps Paradigm/Anthem uses in the US.


This report is already a little outdated (it's for 1/13/09), but we may be able to get future backorder status reports from the same place as time goes on.

http://www.amgav.com/docs/paradigmin...atusreport.pdf 


The report shows the original D2 products as now discontinued. It shows a 1/23 ETA for the D2v and AVM 50v. As we now know, this is correct for the D2v and a bit optimistic for the AVM 50v. No info on upgrades is shown, and no info on pricing.

--Bob


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15646789
> 
> 
> DUCKWOOD,
> 
> When you get your new Anthem Statement D2v powered up, please report what version of firmware was factory installed in it.
> 
> 
> Press Select once on the remote and read the firmware version from the end of the first line of info displayed in the Front Panel display or the On-Screen display. It will likely be V2.02 but we need to confirm that.
> 
> 
> When you get the ARC application installed on your Windows PC, please also report the version of ARC that came bundled with your D2v. Run ARC in "advanced" mode and choose the "About" item from the Help menu. It will likely be V2.0.1 but we need to confirm that.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> --Bob



Hurry up duckwood, or else Bob isn't going to get any sleep tonight


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We here at "Bob Pariseau" have long ago learned that sleep is highly overrated.










--Bob


----------



## zr123

Does anyone have any ideas of upgrade pricing?


D2 -> D2v ?

AVM 50 -> AVM 50v?


Thanks!


----------



## jayray

No pricing for upgrade yet. It will undoubtedly be posted as soon as it is revealed. Stay tuned









John


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15643288
> 
> 
> Congratulations! Yours is the first post in this thread from someone who has actually taken delivery of a new D2v!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ETA: Oh, and Welcome to the cool kids thread!
> 
> --Bob



Not to be Mister Skeptical, but until we see a couple more people with one, I tend to not believe one-off posts with no follow-up.


The three dealers I called in MD/VA (on Thursday) said it won't be shipping for 1-3 more weeks. I'd be surprised if they were that far off?


I'm thinking perhaps he got a D2, not a D2v2.


Show me a picture, and show me two+ people with one, and then I'll believe! And I'll push my dealers harder.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15650470
> 
> 
> Not to be Mister Skeptical, but until we see a couple more people with one, I tend to not believe one-off posts with no follow-up.
> 
> 
> The three dealers I called in MD/VA (on Thursday) said it won't be shipping for 1-3 more weeks. I'd be surprised if they were that far off?
> 
> 
> I'm thinking perhaps he got a D2, not a D2v2.
> 
> 
> Show me a picture, and show me two+ people with one, and then I'll believe! And I'll push my dealers harder.



Umm. he posted pictures of the unit.. perhaps you need to read more slowly...


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15650533
> 
> 
> Umm. he posted pictures of the unit.. perhaps you need to read more slowly...



Sorry, I meant pictures that are more than beauty shots. Something a litte specific to him. Those look like they could just as easily be a hotel room at CES.


I'd be less skeptical if he responded again, or if there was a dealer anywhere in the area saying they were available now, or even this week.


I'll buy one as soon as I can get one. It's the getting one that seems to be the difficult part.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15650641
> 
> 
> Sorry, I meant pictures that are more than beauty shots. Something a litte specific to him. Those look like they could just as easily be a hotel room at CES.
> 
> 
> I'd be less skeptical if he responded again, or if there was a dealer anywhere in the area saying they were available now, or even this week.
> 
> 
> I'll buy one as soon as I can get one. It's the getting one that seems to be the difficult part.



He also listed the dealer he bought from (I've personally bought from Craig)... he's not hard to find, and might even have one left for you.










I think that Bob reported confirmation from Nick that they shipped out.. good luck in getting one.


----------



## zr123

^ That's right.


When I called Anthem on Friday, they also confirmed that the D2v's are shipping.


----------



## HT_n_Me

I only have one dealer near me and visited him Saturday. I asked about the D2v2 and was told 3 weeks yet - but he said he should have plenty as he always gets a large allotment and only has a few spoken for. He also said pricing for the first 30 days or so after its "out" is $7499 and then it will shoot up to at least $8k. Maybe more.


I checked an email that I got from Anthem back in December and "Nick" told me end of Feb for a release of the unit.


I wouldn't be surprised to find that a few have shipped early. It happens with other products like Nikon DSLR's but I figure the bulk of them will come in a few weeks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes, Nick at Anthem has confirmed that D2v units actually are shipping.


Arrival at dealers will of course depend upon shipping and customs delays. I've no idea how Anthem prioritizes which dealers get units first in situations like this. But I imagine it is a combo of firm orders already placed, and the volume of business done both by the dealer and by the dealer rep (distributor) the dealer works through to place those Anthem orders.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15650641
> 
> 
> I'll buy one as soon as I can get one. It's the getting one that seems to be the difficult part.



Order one! Thats kinda how it works.......


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HT_n_Me* /forum/post/15650760
> 
> 
> He also said pricing for the first 30 days or so after its "out" is $7499 and then it will shoot up to at least $8k. *Maybe more*.



LOL. Dont you love these guys?


They'll be rare in 30 days time. Sold out. Rare as hens teeth. Premium pricing......lol


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15650641
> 
> 
> I'll buy one as soon as I can get one. It's the getting one that seems to be the difficult part.



I spoke to Craig... he has them and is taking orders for imminent delivery.


----------



## duckwood

ok...so I wasn't home to use the thing until tonight. My sister-in-law called me to tell me the forums were a bit skeptical and had a good laugh.


yeah so here are some images with a model (did you see her at CES???)


I'll post these and then read the rest of the posts and answer what I can.


----------



## duckwood

first impression was good. packed well. looks EXACTLY like the previously released photo...says D2v on front...but D2 V2 on the back....


surprised by 2.00 firmware...


no paper manual..manual on CD...dated Jan 13th...


CD dated Jan 19th.


Installed ARC from CD on XP. Didn't see a version anywhere on install...three checkboxes on the install page..bottom one is D2v.


Date on exe is Jan 15th..949kb. Using windows properties it still says 2.0.0.0


Don't have it setup to run ARC yet...maybe tomorrow after work...


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15646789
> 
> 
> DUCKWOOD,
> 
> When you get your new Anthem Statement D2v powered up, please report what version of firmware was factory installed in it.
> 
> 
> Press Select once on the remote and read the firmware version from the end of the first line of info displayed in the Front Panel display or the On-Screen display. It will likely be V2.02 but we need to confirm that.
> 
> 
> When you get the ARC application installed on your Windows PC, please also report the version of ARC that came bundled with your D2v. Run ARC in "advanced" mode and choose the "About" item from the Help menu. It will likely be V2.0.1 but we need to confirm that.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> --Bob



no it is 2.00 as delivered.


ran arc Advanced...about box still say copyright 2008 and version 2.0


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15650470
> 
> 
> Not to be Mister Skeptical, but until we see a couple more people with one, I tend to not believe one-off posts with no follow-up.
> 
> 
> The three dealers I called in MD/VA (on Thursday) said it won't be shipping for 1-3 more weeks. I'd be surprised if they were that far off?
> 
> 
> I'm thinking perhaps he got a D2, not a D2v2.
> 
> 
> Show me a picture, and show me two+ people with one, and then I'll believe! And I'll push my dealers harder.



give Craig a call. I believe you can find his website by doing a google search on theatermax.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15651374
> 
> 
> no it is 2.00 as delivered.
> 
> 
> ran arc Advanced...about box still say copyright 2008 and version 2.0



Thanks for that! Those CES booth models are something, eh?


I'm surprised by the version numbers as well. But then, that's why I asked for your confirmation.


I suspect ARC V2.0.1 is nothing more than adding the installer option for the AVM 50v manual. There's certainly nothing in the release notes indicating any fixes compared to the V2.0.0 delivered with your D2v. Of course you could download ARC V2.0.1 from the Anthem public download page and install it on your PC on top of he V2.0.0 you've already installed.


But that still leaves us wondering what might be in the D2v and AVM 50v V2.02 firmware that's on the Anthem password protected download page. As of today there are still no release notes with those two firmware installers, so no indication of what, if anything, might have been fixed/changed in V2.02.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*CAUTION:* Perhaps needless to say but I think it would be a really REALLY **BAD IDEA** for anyone who takes delivery of a new D2v or AVM 50v to apply the V2.02 firmware installers from Anthem's password protected test software page until we get some clue as to what's in them.


Not the least reason being there is no V2.00 firmware installer available for you to back out whatever V2.02 installs.

--Bob


----------



## Johnla




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15616959
> 
> 
> Prices of newly introduced products generally stay the same or increase - not get reduced.



With some products maybe. But with others, like with TV's, they often times drop in price almost every new model year.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15643131
> 
> 
> Just wanted to let you all know I picked up my D2V today from Craig at Theatermax. Didn't see anyone post that they had one yet or even knew they were shipping. Mine came in Thursday. As usual he gave me a good deal.
> 
> 
> Looking forward to getting it hooked into the system tomorrow. Hope the images load.
> 
> 
> duckwood



I hope you know your luck.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnla* /forum/post/15651897
> 
> 
> With some products maybe. But with others, like with TV's, they often times drop in price almost every new model year.



Agreed. But there are no margins at all in TV's anymore. Everybody sells them.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15651272
> 
> 
> I spoke to Craig... he has them and is taking orders for imminent delivery.



Are ordering one yourself?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15651601
> 
> *CAUTION:* Perhaps needless to say but I think it would be a really REALLY **BAD IDEA** for anyone who takes delivery of a new D2v or AVM 50v to apply the V2.02 firmware installers from Anthem's password protected test software page until we get some clue as to what's in them.
> 
> 
> Not the least reason being there is no V2.00 firmware installer available for you to back out whatever V2.02 installs.
> 
> --Bob



This is a really good caution.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15652980
> 
> 
> Are ordering one yourself?



From another source, maybe.....


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15653625
> 
> 
> From another source, maybe.....



If if you do I am anxious to get your feedback. I have to wait to get the upgrade sould be soon.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I just ordered D2v I should have it by early next week at the latest







. I will have a D2 with ARC forsale once I get the new one set up.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15654581
> 
> 
> I just ordered D2v I should have it by early next week at the latest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I will have a D2 with ARC forsale once I get the new one set up.



Cool! Are you going to try transferring your settings via PC files? We need a guinea pig willing to try transferring Setup and Video Source Adjust menu settings -- not to mention migrating an existing ARC results file.


The new Settings Backup utility is supposed to do this for the Setup menu. I don't know yet whether it also transfers Video Source Adjust menu settings, but if not then the Live Video Settings Editor utility will do that. Nick says that both of these utilities are designed for this migration to the new hardware, but that it has not yet been tested extensively. I.e., there may be some gotchas that you need to correct manually. At the worst you would have to Reload Factory Defaults and enter all your settings manually so there's not much to lose by trying this.


And the release notes for ARC V2.0.1 say it is supposed to handle the conversion of a current ARC results file to one ready for Upload into the new hardware -- it is also supposed to ask for confirmation that you really want to do that. I suggest you make a copy of your current ARC results file and use that for this experiment so that your original file doesn't get changed.


ETA: It will be interesting to see what happens to D2 pricing on Audiogon as this goes on. At the moment, asking prices for the few D2 units offered for sale seem to be holding up pretty well.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15654636
> 
> 
> Cool! Are you going to try transferring your settings via PC files? We need a guinea pig willing to try transferring Setup and Video Source Adjust menu settings -- not to mention migrating an existing ARC results file.
> 
> 
> The new Settings Backup utility is supposed to do this for the Setup menu. I don't know yet whether it also transfers Video Source Adjust menu settings, but if not then the Live Video Settings Editor utility will do that. Nick says that both of these utilities are designed for this migration to the new hardware, but that it has not yet been tested extensively. I.e., there may be some gotchas that you need to correct manually. At the worst you would have to Reload Factory Defaults and enter all your settings manually so there's not much to lose by trying this.
> 
> 
> And the release notes for ARC V2.0.1 say it is supposed to handle the conversion of a current ARC results file to one ready for Upload into the new hardware -- it is also supposed to ask for confirmation that you really want to do that. I suggest you make a copy of your current ARC results file and use that for this experiment so that your original file doesn't get changed.
> 
> --Bob



I was just sitting here thinking about doing just that.


----------



## spiderv6

So heres the latest from my dealer.


Anthem have now shipped everything they have for dealer allocations. New orders (like mine) are taking 7 to 10 business days to fulfil.........


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15654636
> 
> 
> ETA: It will be interesting to see what happens to D2 pricing on Audiogon as this goes on. At the moment, asking prices for the few D2 units offered for sale seem to be holding up pretty well.
> 
> --Bob



Funny, I also had a look this morning and the prices haven't changed atall in the last few weeks (and there are definitely more D2's up there of late).


I have to be honest, I don't think a used is worth more than $3k today.


I'm sure many people don't want to hear that, but introductory pricing _less_ the cost of an upgrade _less_ the 'second hand' price reduction gets you (me) to somewhere around $3k.


I think many people on audiogon will be waiting a while at their $4k+ asking prices....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15654710
> 
> 
> So heres the latest from my dealer.
> 
> 
> Anthem have now shipped everything they have for dealer allocations. New orders (like mine) are taking 7 to 10 business days to fulfil.........



That's actually better than when the AVM 50 originally launched. At that point Anthem appeared to be switching production on a 30 day cycle -- 30 days of D2 and then 30 days of AVM 50. Which meant that if you ordered at the wrong time you had a 1 month wait before they made more units of each type.


We know they switched to making AVM 50v units last week (while shipping the D2v units already made). They may have improved their processes so that they now can switch the production line more frequently.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15654688
> 
> 
> I was just sitting here thinking about doing just that.



I strongly recommend you take the time, even though it is a pain, to write down your current Setup and Video Source Adjust menu settings. At the very least that will be useful to verify that the electronic migration of settings worked as intended.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15654777
> 
> 
> Funny, I also had a look this morning and the prices haven't changed atall in the last few weeks (and there are definitely more D2's up there of late).
> 
> 
> I have to be honest, I don't think a used is worth more than $3k today.
> 
> 
> I'm sure many people don't want to hear that, but introductory pricing _less_ the cost of an upgrade _less_ the 'second hand' price reduction gets you (me) to somewhere around $3k.
> 
> 
> I think many people on audiogon will be waiting a while at their $4k+ asking prices....



I think you may be overlooking the fact that there are still plenty of people out there for whom the D2 is just what they need. So they have no intention of upgrading to the D2v and don't need to save money for that when buying the used unit.

--Bob


----------



## duckwood

Not that it matters since the sources aren't there, but I haven't gotten the deep color to work on the D2v. If I connect my PS3 directly to my display (Pro150) it says 36 bit color. When I connect it to the D2v first it doesn't say 36 bit.


----------



## mikepebble

Hi Bob !

I finally got help with uploading the results for arc and wondered if you and others might be able to take a look at these and give my some Ideas on what is working and how I can improve the theatre experience.

I have experimented with different room gain and eq's ,but have only uploaded this one to the d2. My arc program is 1.25.If speaker placement is an issue looking at the graphs then I'll make whatever adjustments that you see as helpful. I see that the new version is available so I would like to get some direction with the first arc attempt,before I tackle the new ver.

Thanks for looking and sharing-- mikepebble

 

testjan26.doc 238k . file

 

testtargets.doc 89k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15655074
> 
> 
> Not that it matters since the sources aren't there, but I haven't gotten the deep color to work on the D2v. If I connect my PS3 directly to my display (Pro150) it says 36 bit color. When I connect it to the D2v first it doesn't say 36 bit.



Since you're the only one in this thread with a unit so far, you'll likely need to contact Anthem tech support for advice. I'll be amazed if they haven't tried the D2v with the PS3, and likely with the Kuro panels as well.


Check the Video Source Adjust > Info panel for details on video input and output. You'll likely need to use YCbCr 4:4:4 data format for input and output to get "Deep Color". Which means you likely won't get it while viewing the PS3's XMB user interface since it uses RGB output for that.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15654907
> 
> 
> I think you may be overlooking the fact that there are still plenty of people out there for whom the D2 is just what they need. So they have no intention of upgrading to the D2v and don't need to save money for that when buying the used unit.
> 
> --Bob



I did say people wouldn't want to hear it










It's just my opinion and the market will decide.


We all know that whether it's cars or esoteric hi-fi equipment you will take a beating on depreciation, just part of life.............


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikepebble* /forum/post/15655180
> 
> 
> Hi Bob !
> 
> I finally got help with uploading the results for arc and wondered if you and others might be able to take a look at these and give my some Ideas on what is working and how I can improve the theatre experience.
> 
> I have experimented with different room gain and eq's ,but have only uploaded this one to the d2. My arc program is 1.25.If speaker placement is an issue looking at the graphs then I'll make whatever adjustments that you see as helpful. I see that the new version is available so I would like to get some direction with the first arc attempt,before I tackle the new ver.
> 
> Thanks for looking and sharing-- mikepebble



Are the "crossover" values shown in the Targets window the ones that ARC produced for you, or have you altered them?


I'm surprised that there is such a big gap between the top end of what it has your subwoofer producing and the low end of what your side and rear surrounds are producing.


------------------------------------------------


Your basic volume level is fine and your sub is showing good response down to around 22Hz which is also fine.


I think your setup would respond well to raising the Max EQ Frequency target beyond the default 5KHz value to tell ARC to apply correction further up. You can easily do a few experiments there to see what happens to the results curves (no need to re-Measure to do that).


Your side and rear surround speakers don't have much bass output. This may simply be the design of these speakers, but you should check to see if they have a bass adjustment of any sort -- for example a bass port that you can open. Any changes made there will require re-Measurement.


Your rear speakers have an unusual dip around 2.5KHz. Your side surrounds show a less dramatic dip as well so this may be due to the design of the speakers. ARC has pretty well corrected that in 3 of the speakers, but your right rear has more dip there than ARC can correct.


Your right rear speaker is also showing the most dramatic loss of the highest frequencies.


The first thing to do is to check for bass response adjustments in your surround speakers. Also, play some stereo music content in Stereo All mode (to send the same stuff to all your speakers) and put your ear up close to the speaker drivers to make sure all the elements are firing in those speakers. Some speakers have separate input jacks for low frequency and high frequency (usually connected by a jumper bar so you only have to run speaker wire to one pair of jacks). If your surround speakers are like this, then make sure the low frequency input is connected.


Next, revisit how your speakers are mounted/pointed. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing. Your Center speaker may also benefit from some vertical pointing adjustment. This is an attempt to improve high frequency Measurements by reducing the loss of high frequencies due to directionality in the speakers. Many speakers have poorer dispersion of high frequencies vertically than horizontally. Your LF/RF speakers are fine.


Then re-Measure and try a set of calculations with Max EQ Frequency target varying between 10 and 20KHz to see how high up you can take it before the results start to degrade (more wobbles in the green Calculated curve) at lower frequencies. You may find you can go up all the way to 20KHz. When you find a good compromise value for that, then you can Upload those results and give them a listen.


-----------------------------------------------


Now, presuming you haven't fiddled with the "crossover" target values yourself, the subwoofer target curve ARC has chosen is fine in combination with your Lf/RF front speakers, OK with your Center speaker, but surprisingly low compared to what ARC is doing with your side and rear surround speakers.


If you can't get better bass out of your surround speakers then you have a bit of a problem -- the timbre from your speakers will differ too much from front to back as audio pans around the room.


So if you discover there is no bass adjustment (or hookup error) in your surround speakers, my next advice would be to abandon ARC V1.2.5 and immediately switch to using ARC V2.0.1. The newer ARC has a superior approach to solving bass issues and may work much better for you. In any event, any manual fiddling we would want to try to help ARC deal with these surround speakers should be done using ARC V2.0.1.


So make the speaker adjustments I suggested, re-Measure with ARC V2.0.1, make some trial Calculations with higher Max EQ Frequency target values, and post the best results you get. Then we'll see where to go from there.


When re-Measuring, be sure to follow the guidelines in Section 3.15 of the updated manual for mic placement: Mic pointing straight up at seated ear height, not too close to reflective surfaces like walls or seat backs, #1 position dead center, subsequent positions alternating either side of dead center, and no two positions (whether or not sequential) closer than 24 inches apart.


With any luck the combo of speaker adjustments, higher Max EQ Frequency target settings, and ARC V2.0.1's better approach to bass will resolve everything. The worst case scenario is that you might have to live with weak bass from your surrounds until you decide to replace them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Duckwood,

Nick at Anthem did mention a couple weeks ago that in their testing they discovered some devices advertised as supporting "Deep Color" only did so when the video was 1080p/24 -- i.e., not 1080p/50 or 1080p/60. I'd be surprised if either the PS3 or the Pioneer display fall into this category but it's another thing to check.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15654710
> 
> 
> So heres the latest from my dealer.
> 
> 
> Anthem have now shipped everything they have for dealer allocations. New orders (like mine) are taking 7 to 10 business days to fulfil.........



I wonder if dealer allocations means all dealer orders made prior to official shipping date of last Tuesday. My dealer ordered my unit on January 16th and he thought that it would be in today. Nothing yet







and he is checking with Anthem.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15651389
> 
> 
> give Craig a call. I believe you can find his website by doing a google search on theatermax.



I called him, and he seemed kind of out of it. I'm a guy ready to drop about $7K, and he's drilling me about how I got his number ("off your website"), and acting realy weird when I just was wondering if he had any D2v2's available. Ultimately he gave me a song and dance about how he had 2, but didn't have 2, but might have 2 more later...


I've now called throughout Pennsyvania, DC, MD, and VA, and there's not a single dealer saying they have had one yet, and that they won't be able to get one for 2-3 weeks at best.


Come on... only one in the wild from anyone visiting AVS?


----------



## Roger Dressler

Could those of you with ARC and all speakers crossed over to a subwoofer try running your systems with the subwoofer turned off temporarily, then listening with ARC on and off. Please describe the timbral, spatial, imaging, etc, differences you hear. Big or little difference?


I'm interested to know the effect when the most dramatic room resonance fixes are not part of the equation. I have found fixing basic room resonances improves bass and indeed the perception of timbre thru a large portion of the spectrum, so I was curious how ARC affects the midrange/treble sound alone.


Anyone game? Thanks!


----------



## jayray

Roger,

Bob has mentioned that ARC on and off is not very easy to do due to the fact ARC uploads more than what we can see in our setup menu. This cannot be turned on or off without some of these parameters still affecting the sound. This was my understanding.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We have a number of people here who are running Music configurations with the subwoofer not included, so they'd be able to give you something of a handle on that.


I'm not sure how you separate the sub part of the solution from the mains though for configurations including a sub. In my case for example, I know (from my prior Velodyne EQ experience) that I have room modes through the crossover region. If I turn off the sub I'll only be getting half of ARC's solution for those room modes.


-----------------------------------------------


Another way to try this would be to run a solution including the sub but with the Max EQ Frequency target LOWERED below the default 5KHz value.


Now part of the problem with that is that ARC only uses the frequencies up to that value when deciding the best speaker volume trim to use, so this method will only work well for folks who's average speaker output is fairly consistent above the crossovers -- oscillating either side of the basic volume level you are targeting.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15657016
> 
> 
> Roger,
> 
> Bob has mentioned that ARC on and off is not very easy to do due to the fact ARC uploads more than what we can see in our setup menu. This cannot be turned on or off without some of these parameters still affecting the sound. This was my understanding.
> 
> John



That's correct, turning Room EQ OFF still leaves the crossover values and speaker trims that ARC has Uploaded in effect. Those values may no longer be ideal with the room correction processing turned off. In addition, Center EQ, Room Resonance filter and the Ultra 2 sub/Boundary Gain settings come into effect if you happen to have any of those set.

--Bob


----------



## V7Sport73

I've had one on order since Jan 5th. I'm hoping that it will arrive soon!


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I have downloaded the new software and loaded all of my current settings to bothe the Live Video settings Editor and the Settings Backup. I also did a backup to the old Setup Editor, I am not sure that is any good but it did recognize the 1.33 software. I also setup an excel spreadsheet with all my current settings. At least 4 hours, I'm not getting paid that much


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15656858
> 
> 
> I called him, and he seemed kind of out of it. I'm a guy ready to drop about $7K, and he's drilling me about how I got his number ("off your website"), and acting realy weird when I just was wondering if he had any D2v2's available. Ultimately he gave me a song and dance about how he had 2, but didn't have 2, but might have 2 more later...
> 
> 
> I've now called throughout Pennsyvania, DC, MD, and VA, and there's not a single dealer saying they have had one yet, and that they won't be able to get one for 2-3 weeks at best.
> 
> 
> Come on... only one in the wild from anyone visiting AVS?




I placed my order end of November. There were another 2 there when I picked mine up but I'm pretty sure they were spoken for already.


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15655296
> 
> 
> Since you're the only one in this thread with a unit so far, you'll likely need to contact Anthem tech support for advice. I'll be amazed if they haven't tried the D2v with the PS3, and likely with the Kuro panels as well.
> 
> 
> Check the Video Source Adjust > Info panel for details on video input and output. You'll likely need to use YCbCr 4:4:4 data format for input and output to get "Deep Color". Which means you likely won't get it while viewing the PS3's XMB user interface since it uses RGB output for that.
> 
> --Bob



I have tried changing settings on the Anthem, but not on the PS3, since it previously had worked. I will try setting them to match manually and see what happens. There is an off chance that the new cable I have introduced between PS3 and D2v is not up to the 1.3b spec like it says. I can verify this by putting it directly from PS3 to the panel.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Hey Bob,


I need your help with another simple (I think) problem I'm having. I can't change the Dynamic setting while watching bluray. It works just fine when I'm watching the satellite (normal, reduced and late night) Now am I wrong, is this not how you stop explosions from waking the family at night? Why do you suppose it would work on the Sat source but not the PS3?


Thanks;


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15658620
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> I need your help with another simple (I think) problem I'm having. I can't change the Dynamic setting while watching bluray. It works just fine when I'm watching the satellite (normal, reduced and late night) Now am I wrong, is this not how you stop explosions from waking the family at night? Why do you suppose it would work on the Sat source but not the PS3?
> 
> 
> Thanks;



Manual section 4.8.10 says the audio track has to contain dynamic scaling information. A multi-channel LPCM track (as from the PS3) will not have that.


Try using the Dynamic Range Control setting in the PS3. That should help with Dolby encoded material.


Alternatively, use the "temporary" subwoofer or LFE volume trim adjustment available through the Anthem remote. You can reduce all the sub volume (LFE plus bass steered from other channels) or just the LFE component of that. See Section 4.6 of the Manual. Don't forget to reset it back to 0dB while listening to the same source (these temp settings are remembered separately).


Technical Note: This type of dynamics control gets applied were the track is DECODED. That's why you have to turn it on in the PS3.


The new "Dolby Volume" feature coming for the D2v and AVM 50v should be able to tackle this for you more generally.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand

FWIW, I used the new settings backup utility, and it worked great. I had to flash erase my D2, so I saved the settings and then re-loaded them after a flash erase, and everything was there. MUCH better than manually re-inputting. I have not had a chance to check video settings though, so I don't know about them yet.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15658677
> 
> 
> Manual section 4.8.10 says the audio track has to contain dynamic scaling information. A multi-channel LPCM track (as from the PS3) will not have that.
> 
> 
> Try using the Dynamic Range Control setting in the PS3. That should help with Dolby encoded material.
> 
> 
> Alternatively, use the "temporary" subwoofer or LFE volume trim adjustment available through the Anthem remote. You can reduce all the sub volume (LFE plus bass steered from other channels) or just the LFE component of that. See Section 4.6 of the Manual. Don't forget to reset it back to 0dB while listening to the same source (these temp settings are remembered separately).
> 
> 
> Technical Note: This type of dynamics control gets applied were the track is DECODED. That's why you have to turn it on in the PS3.
> 
> 
> The new "Dolby Volume" feature coming for the D2v and AVM 50v should be able to tackle this for you more generally.
> 
> --Bob













thanks Bob,


----------



## zr123

Hey guys... I have a question:


We're gearing up for a mid-Feb install on our Home Theatre and all of its components (which of course include the new AVM 50v







) and I was wondering if using ARC is easy or not?


Do we require a professional to calibrate using ARC? For someone who isn't familiar with Anthem or their products how much of a challenge will it be to get going?


Thanks again!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just heard back from Nick that there are no ARC changes yet in the new hardware. So folks migrating to a D2v or AVM 50v should expect the same results from ARC -- recognizing that each Measurement will likely vary a bit due to mic placement differences.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15660041
> 
> 
> Hey guys... I have a question:
> 
> 
> We're gearing up for a mid-Feb install on our Home Theatre and all of its components (which of course include the new AVM 50v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and I was wondering if using ARC is easy or not?
> 
> 
> Do we require a professional to calibrate using ARC? For someone who isn't familiar with Anthem or their products how much of a challenge will it be to get going?
> 
> 
> Thanks again!



It's really not that bad. Read the ARC related post links collected in the first post of this thread, and section 3.15 of the manual and you will be fine. It really is better if you get used to doing ARC setup yourself so that you know what's going on and can redo it if you move speakers or the like.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

I don't get it. My Anthem D2 is about 1 and 1/2 years old. I find it wonderful that I can upgrade it to a D2v for around 2k to 2.5k. Why would I sell it for 3 or 4 k and then buy a new one. Yes, a new warantee is nice and I would not be inconvienced for a month while I wait for the return.

Bob P when you do decide to have a D2v are you going to buy a new one or upgrade?


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Bob can you do me/us a favor? If you think of it the next time to speak to Nick can you try to get a confirmation as to whether or not a new front D2v face will be available to existing D2 owners? Nick may not be able to confirm the price but I'd like to know if it will in fact be available.


Thanks!


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15660109
> 
> 
> It's really not that bad. Read the ARC related post links collected in the first post of this thread, and section 3.15 of the manual and you will be fine. It really is better if you get used to doing ARC setup yourself so that you know what's going on and can redo it if you move speakers or the like.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


I took a look through the manual and you're right, the configuration doesn't look too bad.


Too bad they don't support Mac OSX as yet... I guess I can just boot camp into Vista and go from there - hopefully it works the same way.


----------



## jclem

Hey Bob, I find it hard to believe that you don't already have a D2v AS A GIFT from Anthem for all the support you provide here!!! Just my 3 cents.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15655074
> 
> 
> Not that it matters since the sources aren't there, but I haven't gotten the deep color to work on the D2v. If I connect my PS3 directly to my display (Pro150) it says 36 bit color. When I connect it to the D2v first it doesn't say 36 bit.



Is there a noticeable difference in picture quality?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ohdee,

The word from Nick two weeks ago was that he believed you could get a new front panel if you were willing to pay for it and wait for the special handling. I don't think they know yet what the upcharge would be. Some eager customer like you may end up setting the pricing by how much you are willing to pay!


---------------


Zr123,

I use bootcamp and XP Pro on a Macbook with two USB ports and a Keyspan USB to serial adapter. It works fine.


ETA: A wireless mouse is also useful so you can run Measurement sweeps while standing out of the way.

--Bob


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/15661159
> 
> 
> Is there a noticeable difference in picture quality?



I don't know. There are technical reasons why there should be no difference since the transfers to date as far as I know do not use it at all. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong. What I can see is that when I connect the PS3 to my panel directly, the picture has more visible detail due to the brightness. Through the D2v it is darker. I put up the test patterns from the D2v and the gradients on the gray look good as does the one with the two "blacks" (I believe this is the same in the D2 manual as well). So the display does not need adjustment. Rather it is making the source dark. Now this can be adjusted I know, though I would like to know if the deep color or lack thereof is affecting this as well...seems something is not quite right.


I also have experienced dropouts of the sound between the PS3 and the D2v over HDMI. I can pause the bluray and continue it and the sound will come back. Picture remains visible.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Keep in mind that there are input adjustments on the D2v as well.


While viewing the PS3 bring up the Video Source Adjust menu on the D2v (press and hold the "7" key).


In the Picture menu go to the Input Color Space line. For the PS3 I recommend you have YCbCr Auto and RGB Extended both checked. This corresponds to the following output settings from the PS3:


Blu-Ray/DVD Video Output Auto

SuperWhite ON

RGB Full


In addition you should have 1080p/24 output set to Auto on the PS3.


The result, I believe, should be 1080p/24 YCbCr 4:4:4 at 36bits/pixel from the PS3 when watching Blu-Ray movies, 1080i/60 YCbCr 4:4:4 at 24 bits/pixel when watching video rate Blu-Ray content (e.g., live concert discs), and 1080i/60 RGB (Extended) at 24 bits/pixel when the PS3's XMB user interface is displayed.


Meanwhile the D2v's Video Output configuration should by YCbCr 4:4:4. If the D2v is sending out YCbCr 4:2:2 or RGB that will be only 24 bits/pixel.


----------------------------------------------


Audio dropouts in the HDMI LPCM from the PS3 may indeed be a sign that the cable to the D2v is not handling the signal properly.

--Bob


----------



## mikepebble

"When re-Measuring, be sure to follow the guidelines in Section 3.15 of the updated manual for mic placement: Mic pointing straight up at seated ear height, not too close to reflective surfaces like walls or seat backs, #1 position dead center, subsequent positions alternating either side of dead center, and no two positions (whether or not sequential) closer than 24 inches apart.


With any luck the combo of speaker adjustments, higher Max EQ Frequency target settings, and ARC V2.0.1's better approach to bass will resolve everything. The worst case scenario is that you might have to live with weak bass from your surrounds until you decide to replace them.

--Bob"



Thanks for the quick reply Bob!

Attached is a drawing of my room.

All the results shown by the graphs are ARC generated.(targets , crossovers)

Speakers consist of all Paradigm equipment

centre studio ref 690v4

fronts studio ref 100v4

surrounds adp 470v4

rears sa15R

Sub servo15v2

sub ED a7s 450 (not Paradigm)


My surrounds are Dipole and my rears are ceiling speakers.My challenge for them I believe is the shape and size of the room.You mentioned vertical pointing ,in particular the centre speaker.My centre spk. is on a factory stand and is 26in. to top of speaker with an approximate 7degree tilt up.Sitting ear height is approx.41in.Sitting is 15 ft. from speaker.Should I attempt to raise the centre spk. slightly?

Bob I may have goofed with the first set of measurements in two ways.

1) mic straight up but to close to back of couches.

2)#1 mic position.I used the "sweet spot" for the theatre room for viewing.However in my room the viewing sweet spot is not "dead centre " of the room ,so that is wrong -right?If it is wrong then I will have to start over I think?

 

Media room.doc 202.5k . file


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15656858
> 
> 
> I called him, and he seemed kind of out of it. I'm a guy ready to drop about $7K, and he's drilling me about how I got his number ("off your website"), and acting realy weird when I just was wondering if he had any D2v2's available. Ultimately he gave me a song and dance about how he had 2, but didn't have 2, but might have 2 more later...
> 
> 
> I've now called throughout Pennsyvania, DC, MD, and VA, and there's not a single dealer saying they have had one yet, and that they won't be able to get one for 2-3 weeks at best.
> 
> 
> Come on... only one in the wild from anyone visiting AVS?




This is why some preorder the unit. To avoid a 3-4 weeks waiting for the unit to show up.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




bob pariseau said:


> ohdee,
> 
> the word from nick two weeks ago was that he believed you could get a new front panel if you were willing to pay for it and wait for the special handling. I don't think they know yet what the upcharge would be. Some eager customer like you may end up setting the pricing by how much you are willing to pay!
> 
> 
> ---------------
> 
> 
> --bob[/quote


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/15660859
> 
> 
> Hey Bob, I find it hard to believe that you don't already have a D2v AS A GIFT from Anthem for all the support you provide here!!! Just my 3 cents.



I would certainly chip-in for my share of the upgrade cost!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15663955
> 
> 
> I would certainly chip-in for my share of the upgrade cost!



This could be starting something









John


----------



## diamar

So having benefited from Bob P's amazingly helpful posts, I've now got ARC tuned very well for my room. I have a couple of observations that others might find useful, and a couple of philosophical questions:
Read Bob's posts about setup. I admire his seemingly infinite patience for posting the same directions repeatedly. If you follow his instructions step-by-step, you'll minimize the chance of problems.
I found that consistent background noise (omnipresent for those of us who live in urban high-rise buildings) was tough for ARC, while small noise events (a bird chirp or dog bark) seem easily factored away. It's worth doing your measurements at a time when there are fewer buses, horns, fire trucks, or other distractions. Inside noises can be bad as well: HVAC, refrigerators (even that "quiet" Subzero), TiVo's, computers, and almost anything with a disk drive or fan. Even though these things might be present when you listen to the D2, I found it better to eliminate them during measurement to keep ARC from getting confused.
ARC can definitely have trouble measuring challenging subwoofer setups (I think background noise is the biggest culprit). If your initial volume levels are set correctly (see Bob's posts about this) but ARC has trouble "hearing" your sub on its first pass, don't just turn up your sub's volume the first time ARC complains. Instead, make it try a couple more times before you give in to its whining. While it's frustrating to repeat the sub measurements in some of the listening positions, you'll end up with better results. IMHO, turning the volume up just forced ARC to set the sub's levels artificially low when it uploaded (like at -10).
If ARC shows something's wrong, then something is probably wrong. I had weird dropoffs in my center channel, for example, at the high end. I checked cables, listened to the speakers, and couldn't figure it out. Till I noticed that behind the acoustically-transparent speaker cloth on the custom-made speaker grill was a wooden(!) crossbar right over the tweeter. Removing said crossbar made a dramatic difference. I had been convinced ARC was crazy or wrong. Turns out it was my contractor who was actually crazy and wrong.









Now I have a couple questions for anyone who wants to weigh in.

Why must we do separate measurements for Cinema and Music? Unless I change the mic positions, ARC will presumably hear the same things from the same speakers each time it measures. It strikes me that it would be much easier to tell ARC which speakers are used for each config, let it measure each speaker once and calculate each configuration based on what it's already measured. Am I missing something? Does it "listen" differently for cinema vs. music?
What's the best music config for a 6.1 system? I see that many (like Bob) have ARC measure music with L/R/LS/RS/Sub (i.e. omit Center), but generally listen in Stereo mode. The benefit of this is that one can still select an all-channel Stereo mode during a party to better distribute the music. But when listening in Stereo mode, wouldn't that leave the room less-optimized then if ARC had calculated everything assuming just L/R? If USING a different speaker configuration then ARC actually MEASURED is not sub-optimal, then wouldn't it be best to make Music mode always a 2-channel measurement, but to switch to Cinema mode for parties in the situation above -- and use Anthem-Logic Music or ProLogicIIx Music (which can be adjusted to remove the Center channel)?


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15664421
> 
> 
> This could be starting something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



First, we will have to make Bob Pariseau, Inc. a non-profit corporation. Then we can take charitable AV deductions and the BP Team does not have to claim these contributions for tax purposes.


----------



## Ron Alcasid

This weekend I setup my new plasma display, after getting everything hooked up I turned on AVM 50 I noticed that it took a really long time to complete it's power on process, it usually takes less than 10 seconds. Also the menus seem really slow to respond. Sometimes it takes 20 or 30 seconds for the display to respond when I press a button. The worst problem is I am not getting audio from any digital input and it's unable to generate the internal speaker calibration sound. Resetting factory default settings did not help. I tried to upload the firmware again. The updater finds the AVM 50 turns it on but it fails because the unit "failed to enter debug mode". What else can I do? Thanks.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15664608
> 
> 
> First, we will have to make Bob Pariseau, Inc. a non-profit corporation. Then we can take charitable AV deductions and the BP Team does not have to claim these contributions for tax purposes.



Now that is a plan. Count me in.









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/15664818
> 
> 
> This weekend I setup my new plasma display, after getting everything hooked up I turned on AVM 50 I noticed that it took a really long time to complete it's power on process, it usually takes less than 10 seconds. Also the menus seem really slow to respond. Sometimes it takes 20 or 30 seconds for the display to respond when I press a button. The worst problem is I am not getting audio from any digital input and it's unable to generate the internal speaker calibration sound. Resetting factory default settings did not help. I tried to upload the firmware again. The updater finds the AVM 50 turns it on but it fails because the unit "failed to enter debug mode". What else can I do? Thanks.




Do a flash erase using Anthems utility, named Flash erase. Then upload 1.33 firmware. This should solve problem. Had the same problem couple of months ago. This is what I did and it worked. Anthem and Bob suggested the same thing.

John


----------



## pjonkheer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/15664818
> 
> 
> This weekend I setup my new plasma display, after getting everything hooked up I turned on AVM 50 I noticed that it took a really long time to complete it's power on process, it usually takes less than 10 seconds. Also the menus seem really slow to respond. Sometimes it takes 20 or 30 seconds for the display to respond when I press a button. The worst problem is I am not getting audio from any digital input and it's unable to generate the internal speaker calibration sound. Resetting factory default settings did not help. I tried to upload the firmware again. The updater finds the AVM 50 turns it on but it fails because the unit "failed to enter debug mode". What else can I do? Thanks.



Call Anthem immediately.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15662485
> 
> 
> This is why some preorder the unit. To avoid a 3-4 weeks waiting for the unit to show up.



Yes, 3 to 4 weeks can be a long time to be without your system.


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/15664818
> 
> 
> This weekend I setup my new plasma display, after getting everything hooked up I turned on AVM 50 I noticed that it took a really long time to complete it's power on process, it usually takes less than 10 seconds. Also the menus seem really slow to respond. Sometimes it takes 20 or 30 seconds for the display to respond when I press a button. The worst problem is I am not getting audio from any digital input and it's unable to generate the internal speaker calibration sound. Resetting factory default settings did not help. I tried to upload the firmware again. The updater finds the AVM 50 turns it on but it fails because the unit "failed to enter debug mode". What else can I do? Thanks.



This happened to me about a month ago after returning home from a one week vacation (unit unused). The only thing that worked for me was to restore default settings, upload a fresh version of 1.33 from the Anthem website, then install it into my AVM-50. I then restored user settings.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/15664818
> 
> 
> This weekend I setup my new plasma display, after getting everything hooked up I turned on AVM 50 I noticed that it took a really long time to complete it's power on process, it usually takes less than 10 seconds. Also the menus seem really slow to respond. Sometimes it takes 20 or 30 seconds for the display to respond when I press a button. The worst problem is I am not getting audio from any digital input and it's unable to generate the internal speaker calibration sound. Resetting factory default settings did not help. I tried to upload the firmware again. The updater finds the AVM 50 turns it on but it fails because the unit "failed to enter debug mode". What else can I do? Thanks.



Call Anthem tech support. Something has gotten corrupted in the software in your unit.


NOTE: Also check that you have fresh batteries in your remote. Sometimes sluggish response is just due to the remote -- but of course that wouldn't explain the failure to reload the firmware.


Anthem will confirm that you haven't missed a step in the firmware install, and presuming not, they'll likely give you the password to the tech support download page with instructions to download the "Flash Eraser" to your PC and run that. This will force the unit into a state where it will accept a new firmware install. You will lose all of your settings.


Then you re-install the V1.33 firmware and re-enter your settings from scratch (ETA: Including a new Upload of your ARC results if you are using ARC -- no need to re-Measure).


If you have any clue as to what happened just before the unit got into this state, please pass that info on to Anthem tech support as well so they can ferret out this rare type of failure.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diamar* /forum/post/15664588
> 
> 
> So having benefited from Bob P's amazingly helpful posts, I've now got ARC tuned very well for my room. I have a couple of observations that others might find useful, and a couple of philosophical questions:
> Read Bob's posts about setup. I admire his seemingly infinite patience for posting the same directions repeatedly. If you follow his instructions step-by-step, you'll minimize the chance of problems.
> I found that consistent background noise (omnipresent for those of us who live in urban high-rise buildings) was tough for ARC, while small noise events (a bird chirp or dog bark) seem easily factored away. It's worth doing your measurements at a time when there are fewer buses, horns, fire trucks, or other distractions. Inside noises can be bad as well: HVAC, refrigerators (even that "quiet" Subzero), TiVo's, computers, and almost anything with a disk drive or fan. Even though these things might be present when you listen to the D2, I found it better to eliminate them during measurement to keep ARC from getting confused.
> ARC can definitely have trouble measuring challenging subwoofer setups (I think background noise is the biggest culprit). If your initial volume levels are set correctly (see Bob's posts about this) but ARC has trouble "hearing" your sub on its first pass, don't just turn up your sub's volume the first time ARC complains. Instead, make it try a couple more times before you give in to its whining. While it's frustrating to repeat the sub measurements in some of the listening positions, you'll end up with better results. IMHO, turning the volume up just forced ARC to set the sub's levels artificially low when it uploaded (like at -10).
> If ARC shows something's wrong, then something is probably wrong. I had weird dropoffs in my center channel, for example, at the high end. I checked cables, listened to the speakers, and couldn't figure it out. Till I noticed that behind the acoustically-transparent speaker cloth on the custom-made speaker grill was a wooden(!) crossbar right over the tweeter. Removing said crossbar made a dramatic difference. I had been convinced ARC was crazy or wrong. Turns out it was my contractor who was actually crazy and wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have a couple questions for anyone who wants to weigh in.
> 
> Why must we do separate measurements for Cinema and Music? Unless I change the mic positions, ARC will presumably hear the same things from the same speakers each time it measures. It strikes me that it would be much easier to tell ARC which speakers are used for each config, let it measure each speaker once and calculate each configuration based on what it's already measured. Am I missing something? Does it "listen" differently for cinema vs. music?
> What's the best music config for a 6.1 system? I see that many (like Bob) have ARC measure music with L/R/LS/RS/Sub (i.e. omit Center), but generally listen in Stereo mode. The benefit of this is that one can still select an all-channel Stereo mode during a party to better distribute the music. But when listening in Stereo mode, wouldn't that leave the room less-optimized then if ARC had calculated everything assuming just L/R? If USING a different speaker configuration then ARC actually MEASURED is not sub-optimal, then wouldn't it be best to make Music mode always a 2-channel measurement, but to switch to Cinema mode for parties in the situation above -- and use Anthem-Logic Music or ProLogicIIx Music (which can be adjusted to remove the Center channel)?



Excellent observations -- and thanks for the kind words.


I too shut off things like air conditioning, refrigetator, etc., while taking Measurements.


ARC could be changed to make the Measurement process less time consuming. I've spoken to Nick about this, and now with the D2v shipping, perhaps we'll see some changes. First of all, Nick assures me that ARC does *NOTHING DIFFERENT* in Measurement, Calculation or processing during listening for the Music configuration. Taking a completely new set of Measurements for Music is just simpler for the software. Now obviously if you want to use different mic positions for Music you'll need new Measurements, and if you configure the room differently for Music (e.g., projector screen up) you'll need new Measurements, but otherwise you shouldn't. I don't believe ARC changes anything about how it does a Measurement pass according to what it has already heard from the earlier speakers so listening to all the speakers and then dropping a few for the Music calculation should be no problem for it.


In addition, I would like a scheme where you can redo any one mic position at will without having to redo all of them. So that if you hear a noise during a Measurement at some mic position and ARC doesn't reject it, you can tell ARC to redo that one position anyway. Just show a line for each position along with whether ARC already has Measurements for that position and with the ability to redo any one position -- and don't offer a Calculation until all positions have had a Measurement.


For Music, each position could have a "Use Movie Measurement" option.


Note that this is distinct from what happens when ARC complains. If ARC doesn't like what it is hearing for a given speaker at a given mic position it will offer the ability to retry starting from just that speaker and will then continue on automatically from there. This is good and should be retained.


If you agree with my take on this you might want to send an email to Anthem tech support so that they know more people would like to see such changes.


As for speaker configuration for Music, keep in mind that my setup (everything but the center channel) means I'm still using my subwoofer when playing in Stereo mode. Bass is steered to the sub from the LF/RF channels.


In my case I deliberately chose the option of NOT using full range fronts, and getting the best, most musical sub I could find. So I WANT the sub included in Music.


This makes it easy for me to decide to leave the surrounds in the mix when setting up Music since they have essentially the same response as the fronts. ARC will not have to compromise its settings for the fronts and sub to account for the needs of the surrounds.


Folks using full range fronts -- and particularly folks who do not want their sub included in Music -- may very well decide that eliminating the surrounds from Music Measurement is a good thing since otherwise ARC will be trying to come up with a compromise solution that accounts for the surrounds.


As you've pointed out, the advantage of my setup is that I can listen in Stereo (which includes the sub) by default and switch to a mode that adds in the surrounds whenever I feel like it.


For parties, the Stereo All or Mono All modes are usually the best choice as nobody is really listening to the surround field and some bodies are likely blocking some of the sound from the fronts anyway.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15664608
> 
> 
> First, we will have to make Bob Pariseau, Inc. a non-profit corporation. Then we can take charitable AV deductions and the BP Team does not have to claim these contributions for tax purposes.



We here at "Bob Pariseau" are already a non-profit.


Of course we didn't plan it that way....










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikepebble* /forum/post/15662434
> 
> 
> "When re-Measuring, be sure to follow the guidelines in Section 3.15 of the updated manual for mic placement: Mic pointing straight up at seated ear height, not too close to reflective surfaces like walls or seat backs, #1 position dead center, subsequent positions alternating either side of dead center, and no two positions (whether or not sequential) closer than 24 inches apart.
> 
> 
> With any luck the combo of speaker adjustments, higher Max EQ Frequency target settings, and ARC V2.0.1's better approach to bass will resolve everything. The worst case scenario is that you might have to live with weak bass from your surrounds until you decide to replace them.
> 
> --Bob"
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply Bob!
> 
> Attached is a drawing of my room.
> 
> All the results shown by the graphs are ARC generated.(targets , crossovers)
> 
> Speakers consist of all Paradigm equipment
> 
> centre studio ref 690v4
> 
> fronts studio ref 100v4
> 
> surrounds adp 470v4
> 
> rears sa15R
> 
> Sub servo15v2
> 
> sub ED a7s 450 (not Paradigm)
> 
> 
> My surrounds are Dipole and my rears are ceiling speakers.My challenge for them I believe is the shape and size of the room.You mentioned vertical pointing ,in particular the centre speaker.My centre spk. is on a factory stand and is 26in. to top of speaker with an approximate 7degree tilt up.Sitting ear height is approx.41in.Sitting is 15 ft. from speaker.Should I attempt to raise the centre spk. slightly?
> 
> Bob I may have goofed with the first set of measurements in two ways.
> 
> 1) mic straight up but to close to back of couches.
> 
> 2)#1 mic position.I used the "sweet spot" for the theatre room for viewing.However in my room the viewing sweet spot is not "dead centre " of the room ,so that is wrong -right?If it is wrong then I will have to start over I think?



Since the layout of the system in your room is asymmetric to the room things are a little complex. You don't indicate where your seating is located in the room -- for example whether it is closer to LS than to RS.


The reason you want Mic position #1 centered is because ARC uses that position to determine the speaker levels and so you want the one position that is most representative of all of your seating. In your case you mic #1 should likely be at the location closest to the middle of your seating. The other mic positions have to span a range either side of that so that ARC can sample the room characteristics across the area encompassing your seating.


It's hard to know whether adjusting the Center speaker a bit might help. It is not uncommon for even minor changes to have good results as speaker dispersion characteristics tend to have rather sharp blips in them as the angle changes. Some speaker manuals include charts that show this.


Anyway, if you had the mic tip too close to chair backs you will definitely want to re-Measure before you put a lot of effort into changing anything with your speakers. Raise the mic tip a few inches to clear the chair back or move it a foot closer to the screen to get it away from the chair back (or both).

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/15664938
> 
> 
> Yes, 3 to 4 weeks can be a long time to be without your system.



Anthem told my dealer that my D2v ordered on January 15 was shipped last Friday.


----------



## spiderv6

so that fits with what i was told that all allocations (pre-orders) have been shipped by end of last week.


I hope theose Anthem Elves are working hard building mine!!!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem doesn't employ elves. I have it on good authority that D2v and AVM 50v units descend from the heavens on golden shafts of sunlight.


So manufacturing delays are usually the result of cloudy weather.










--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
So manufacturing delays are usually the result of cloudy weather.










--Bob
Based on the recent weather conditions, it may take a while........


I recently ran my speaker setups on the new ARC software after I reconfigured my home theater. I have a big suckout on the two front speakers at 88 Hz. (I had the same thing before the reconfiguration, just not as pronounced).


Any suggestions? Should I just try some slightly different positions for the speakers, or will I experience what is probably room nodes from my front positioning unless I do something regarding acoustical treatments?


Results are below:

 

012309-20k.doc 323.5k . file


----------



## akopperl

I just ordered the AVM50v and have a question regarding video resolution.


Can the Anthem automatically determine the video input resolution or do you have to create an individual setting for each resolution?


I am going to connect a blu-ray unit to the Anthem for blu-ray and DVD playback and would prefer not to switch back and forth between settings. Also, not all blu-rays are 1080p/24 so how would I know what resolution to set the Anthem to prior to actually playing the disc?


Thanks


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15664608
> 
> 
> First, we will have to make Bob Pariseau, Inc. a non-profit corporation. Then we can take charitable AV deductions and the BP Team does not have to claim these contributions for tax purposes.



Not to sound too much like a finance nerd, but I don't think that this is a problem - you are allowed to gift up to $10k per year to someone. Since Bob has offered us his wisdom without any suggestion of renumeration, no one could argue that this is compensation for services.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15665978
> 
> 
> Anthem told my dealer that my D2v ordered on January 15 was shipped last Friday.



But for an upgrade do they send you a new machine or do they actually upgrade your old one? I assumed it was the latter, which would obviously slow things down.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15667019
> 
> 
> But for an upgrade do they send you a new machine or do they actually upgrade your old one? I assumed it was the latter, which would obviously slow things down.



Upgrades are not available yet. No pricing from Anthem yet either.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15667238
> 
> 
> Upgrades are not available yet. No pricing from Anthem yet either.



And it's the latter - they upgrade your existing machine, not swap it out with a brand new one (a pity, I know........!)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15666754
> 
> 
> I recently ran my speaker setups on the new ARC software after I reconfigured my home theater. I have a big suckout on the two front speakers at 88 Hz. (I had the same thing before the reconfiguration, just not as pronounced).
> 
> 
> Any suggestions? Should I just try some slightly different positions for the speakers, or will I experience what is probably room nodes from my front positioning unless I do something regarding acoustical treatments?
> 
> 
> Results are below:



First look to the basics and make sure there's no response contour or crossover setting in the speakers themselves that you may have misconfigured.


At 88Hz, even inches matter in terms of how the speaker couples to the room -- particularly with regard to the distance from the closest wall. There's not really any good way to predict how the response will change with any given movement, but I would suggest you try shifting them a bit and re-Measure.


Since you are hot below 88Hz from those speakers I'd suggest moving them a bit further away from the nearest wall. Height adjustment will also change how they couple. If they are on the floor, try putting them on feet or a stand.


You can speed up these experiments by doing only Movie configuration and setting that to 2.0. You'll still need to Measure at 5 mic positions, but it will still go faster until you can look at the new charts and see how the Measured curve is changing. If you get a significant improvement, then do a full new Measurement and Calculation.


But if positioning doesn't seem to do the trick you'll have to investigate room treatments.


ETA: Also look to how the room is configured for listening. A door open to a bathroom or closet for example will change the room modes at those lower frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15667005
> 
> 
> Not to sound too much like a finance nerd, but I don't think that this is a problem - you are allowed to gift up to $10k per year to someone. Since Bob has offered us his wisdom without any suggestion of renumeration, no one could argue that this is compensation for services.



I appreciate the suggestion folks, really I do. But I believe I've got a solution already for what comes next in my system.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/15666894
> 
> 
> I just ordered the AVM50v and have a question regarding video resolution.
> 
> 
> Can the Anthem automatically determine the video input resolution or do you have to create an individual setting for each resolution?
> 
> 
> I am going to connect a blu-ray unit to the Anthem for blu-ray and DVD playback and would prefer not to switch back and forth between settings. Also, not all blu-rays are 1080p/24 so how would I know what resolution to set the Anthem to prior to actually playing the disc?
> 
> 
> Thanks



The simple answer is you set the AVM 50v to the one Video Output configuration you like best and the AVM 50v takes care of converting all forms of input video to that.


Now the tricky part is the 1080p/24 stuff since only movies (content originally recorded at film frame rates -- 24fps) make sense to output at 1080p/24 (presuming your display accepts that and does the right thing with it).


There are two solutions: First you can set up two Video Output configurations (the Setup menu offers up to 4), one for 1080p/60 and one for 1080p/24. Then you can set two input definitions in Setup > Source Setup both of which refer to the same input device. One will be set to use the 1080p/60 Video Output from the AVM 50v and the other will use the 1080p/24 Video Output configuration. Select whichever input applies for the content you happen to be watching. There is also a remote control shortcut that lets you switch which Video Output configuration is used regardless of your chosen input.


Alternatively you can use the Frame Lock feature (Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock) which can be enabled on a source by source basis. When Frame Lock is enabled the AVM 50v's video output frame rate will track the video input frame rate (within limits of what's doable). Set your Video Output configuration to 1080p/60 and you are good to go. When the player sends 1080i/60 or 1080p/60 you will get 1080p/60 output. When the player sends 1080p/24 you will get 1080p/24 output.


Using Frame Lock makes the HDMI handshake take a little longer, which is why some folks prefer to select their Video Output configuration manually.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

Call it old age (my wife does) but over the past few years I have started to only buy things from companies that can actually be bothered to answer the telephone or emails - and of course actually know what they are talking about when they answer questions. It's amazing how many companies simply don't respond to requests.


Anyway, during the course of deciding whether or not to buy Anthem products (and 6 months ago I'd never even heard of these guys) I have had 3 email interactions with them. Every one was answered within the hour, politely, personally and to the point.


In the past week I have purchased an A2 and a D2v.


More companies need to work this stuff out


/RantOff


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Agreed. Really the only weak point of Anthem retailing is their spotty dealer network -- but I suspect that's just the nature of what's going on with higher end dealers in much of the country right now.


It's amazing really, since Anthem's excellent, direct, pre-sales support for customers (such as you experienced) takes a lot of the burden off of dealers.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15667546
> 
> 
> Call it old age (my wife does) but over the past few years I have started to only buy things from companies that can actually be bothered to answer the telephone or emails - and of course actually know what they are talking about when they answer questions. It's amazing how many companies simply don't respond to requests.
> 
> 
> Anyway, during the course of deciding whether or not to buy Anthem products (and 6 months ago I'd never even heard of these guys) I have had 3 email interactions with them. Every one was answered within the hour, politely, personally and to the point.
> 
> 
> In the past week I have purchased an A2 and a D2v.
> 
> 
> More companies need to work this stuff out
> 
> 
> /RantOff



I haven't emailed them yet! There’s no need too as Bob has all the answers!










Maybe I should just to say hi? I could ask for pricing for the new D2v front plate!!!










Here's a question, are we going to just keep going in this thread or will there be a new official D2v thread?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

One thing for upgrading owners to keep in mind is that the upgrade (D2 -> D2v, or AVM 50 -> AVM 50v) may very well result in your unit getting a new serial number. This is of particular note to folks using ARC as its licensing is keyed to the serial number.


Now I'm sure Anthem will take care of getting you a new pair of licensing/calibration files to copy into the ARC install folder in Program Files on your Windows PC. And apparently Anthem has already set up ARC to handle the migration of old ARC results files to the new hardware. But if you have a written record of your serial number, you may need to update that when your upgraded unit comes back.


You can always check the internal (electronic) serial number on your unit by repeatedly pressing Select on the remote. The serial number appears as part of the last set of info displayed, just before it cycles back to the beginning. The internal (electronic) serial number should always match the serial number label on the back of the unit. If it doesn't, give Anthem tech support a call.


------------------------------------------------------


I'm assuming the upgrade for current ARC licensees will not include a new ARC mic, mic stand, or cable. But if I'm wrong in that -- if Anthem sends a new mic back with your upgraded unit, also keep in mind that it is up to you to use only the ARC mic that matches the licensing/calibration files you have installed on your Windows PC.


The ARC application can tell whether or not you have an ARC mic plugged in (rejecting any other mic you might try to use), but it can't tell WHICH ARC mic you have plugged in.


The licensing/calibration files are the pair of files with names made up from the serial number of your Anthem unit combined with the serial number of your ARC mic. If you happen to have more than one ARC mic for whatever reason, check which pair of files you have installed and only use the mic whose serial number matches that pair of files.


Mostly this is a problem only for dealers who are doing dealer-assisted ARC setups for multiple customers (they have to use the ARC mic sent to each customer), but now that upgrades are approaching, we'll need to keep an eye on whether individual, upgrading customers might have an issue here as well.


If you use the wrong ARC mic, then the mic calibration data file will not match the response of that mic and your results will be biased.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15667813
> 
> 
> Here's a question, are we going to just keep going in this thread or will there be a new official D2v thread?



The current plan is to keep going in this thread. The new and old units are more similar than different and there's a ton of useful info already collected in the first post of this thread for buyer's of the new units.


Really the only problem is that we need to get the thread title changed. Apparently that takes some doing.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15666449
> 
> 
> Anthem doesn't employ elves. I have it on good authority that D2v and AVM 50v units descend from the heavens on golden shafts of sunlight.
> 
> 
> So manufacturing delays are usually the result of cloudy weather.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Hey Bob, It's really the Canadian WINTER weather for the delays. I too will add to the BOB fund, thanx for all your help.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15667866
> 
> 
> The current plan is to keep going in this thread. The new and old units are more similar than different and there's a ton of useful info already collected in the first post of this thread for buyer's of the new units.
> 
> 
> Really the only problem is that we need to get the thread title changed. Apparently that takes some doing.
> 
> --Bob



You just need to give Mr. Levesque a KICK







Only he can get it changed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/15668111
> 
> 
> Hey Bob, It's really the Canadian WINTER weather for the delays.



True. And of course this is why, when you ask Anthem for delivery estimates, the answer you'll get, more often than not, is, "Ask Again Later; The Future is Cloudy!"










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15668150
> 
> 
> You just need to give Mr. Levesque a KICK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only he can get it changed.



I believe he is trying to abdicate this task. If someone (not me!) would like to take on the onerous duties of managing the first post of this thread, that might help -- but I don't think the mods can just change the thread starter. They'd have to copy all 600+ pages of this thread into a new thread. Which would also break links we have in other threads pointing into this thread. Limitations of the forum software....


ETA: That would also break links WITHIN this thread to other posts in this thread. For example all the post links collected in the first post of this thread would end up broken.

--Bob


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15661843
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that there are input adjustments on the D2v as well.
> 
> 
> While viewing the PS3 bring up the Video Source Adjust menu on the D2v (press and hold the "7" key).
> 
> 
> In the Picture menu go to the Input Color Space line. For the PS3 I recommend you have YCbCr Auto and RGB Extended both checked. This corresponds to the following output settings from the PS3:
> 
> 
> Blu-Ray/DVD Video Output Auto
> 
> SuperWhite ON
> 
> RGB Full
> 
> 
> In addition you should have 1080p/24 output set to Auto on the PS3.
> 
> 
> The result, I believe, should be 1080p/24 YCbCr 4:4:4 at 36bits/pixel from the PS3 when watching Blu-Ray movies, 1080i/60 YCbCr 4:4:4 at 24 bits/pixel when watching video rate Blu-Ray content (e.g., live concert discs), and 1080i/60 RGB (Extended) at 24 bits/pixel when the PS3's XMB user interface is displayed.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile the D2v's Video Output configuration should by YCbCr 4:4:4. If the D2v is sending out YCbCr 4:2:2 or RGB that will be only 24 bits/pixel.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Audio dropouts in the HDMI LPCM from the PS3 may indeed be a sign that the cable to the D2v is not handling the signal properly.
> 
> --Bob



After talking to Nick today, my D2v now has 2.02 firmware in it. That should resolve the audio dropouts for PCM from the PS3. He believes that there might be a handshake problem where the D2v is not sending out a deep color ID, even in 2.02.


I will make sure I'm at all the setting you stated Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15668557
> 
> 
> After talking to Nick today, my D2v now has 2.02 firmware in it. That should resolve the audio dropouts for PCM from the PS3. He believes that there might be a handshake problem where the D2v is not sending out a deep color ID, even in 2.02.
> 
> 
> I will make sure I'm at all the setting you stated Bob.



Did you get any specific indications of what fixes/changes are in the V2.02 firmware?


Keep us advised on how well the new firmware works. Looks like we should anticipate an early firmware update for new D2v and AVM 50v units.


I'm assuming, of course, that you have the latest firmware on your PS3. How about on your Pioneer display?

--Bob


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15668589
> 
> 
> Did you get any specific indications of what fixes/changes are in the V2.02 firmware?
> 
> 
> Keep us advised on how well the new firmware works. Looks like we should anticipate an early firmware update for new D2v and AVM 50v units.
> 
> 
> I'm assuming, of course, that you have the latest firmware on your PS3. How about on your Pioneer display?
> 
> --Bob



Only that it solves the audio dropout that I was having. No information on what else it might fix.


Have 2.60 in the PS3. Haven't updated the pioneer since I got it...don't know where to get any updates from? Anyone know where to look for info about updating a Pro150FD?


I asked about Dolby Volume...no response yet....


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15668862
> 
> 
> Only that it solves the audio dropout that I was having. No information on what else it might fix.
> 
> 
> Have 2.60 in the PS3. Haven't updated the pioneer since I got it...don't know where to get any updates from? Anyone know where to look for info about updating a Pro150FD?
> 
> 
> I asked about Dolby Volume...no response yet....



I have a D2v ordered and the PRO150FD myself, there's no firmware update that I'm aware. The display supports it, as I see it when I play Blu-ray's from my Panasonic player.


Edit: I did a search of the 8G owners thread and the only firmware update is for a "tuner" issue.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15668490
> 
> 
> I believe he is trying to abdicate this task. If someone (not me!) would like to take on the onerous duties of managing the first post of this thread, that might help -- but I don't think the mods can just change the thread starter. They'd have to copy all 600+ pages of this thread into a new thread. Which would also break links we have in other threads pointing into this thread. Limitations of the forum software....
> 
> 
> ETA: That would also break links WITHIN this thread to other posts in this thread. For example all the post links collected in the first post of this thread would end up broken.
> 
> --Bob



If the mods are feeling adventurous, they can change the thread name in the database directly (thread.title) rather than copying this whole thread to a new one.


----------



## buckley44

Bob can you look at the 2 versions here and let me know if the v2.01 looks much different than the first. so we can compare if the new version is making that big of a differance.

 

arc pictures.doc 432k . file

 

arc 2.01 graphs.doc 450k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15669622
> 
> 
> Bob can you look at the 2 versions here and let me know if the v2.01 looks much different than the first. so we can compare if the new version is making that big of a differance.



Yes the V2.0.1 stuff looks better, but there are some adjustments you need to make.


First of all, your high frequency Measurements look better in V2.0.1. You did your Calculation at 15KHz. I think you should try pushing it all the way up to 20KHz and see if that degrades the lower frequency results at all.


Second, you've got a pretty severe room resonance at 45Hz (see the LF/RF speakers) which is confusing ARC into deciding that there is essentially no Room Gain to preserve in your room. Now ARC has corrected out that peak, but you should probably go into Targets and up the Room Gain value. I'd suggest trying around 2.5dB or 3.0dB. Leave the "Force" box checked. Accept that change (along with the Max EQ Frequency change) and do a new Calculation. No need to re-Measure.


You didn't include a Center speaker chart in the V2.0.1 file, but I suspect it will respond just as well to this.

--Bob


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/15664818
> 
> 
> This weekend I setup my new plasma display, after getting everything hooked up I turned on AVM 50 I noticed that it took a really long time to complete it's power on process, it usually takes less than 10 seconds. Also the menus seem really slow to respond. Sometimes it takes 20 or 30 seconds for the display to respond when I press a button. The worst problem is I am not getting audio from any digital input and it's unable to generate the internal speaker calibration sound. Resetting factory default settings did not help. I tried to upload the firmware again. The updater finds the AVM 50 turns it on but it fails because the unit "failed to enter debug mode". What else can I do? Thanks.



FYI, this started happening to my D2 about 8 months ago (slow boot, video no audio, sluggish, to say the least, remote response)... I finally isolated it to, for me anyways, the D2 losing power for more than a short period. I haven't done any scientific testing (







) but my casual testing has shown that any power loss of more than 20 minutes has always been a guarantee of this symptom. It is not so certain if the power loss is shorter.


As others have noted, a firmware erase followed by a firmware flash has always recovered things for me... until the next power outage that is long enough which fortunately does not happen too much around here.


I was waiting to get this addressed (along with my noisy/hot power supply hopefully) when I send the D2 in for the D2v upgrade if that ever comes around.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Hmmm, I wonder if the D2 has an internal rechargeable battery that's needed to keep certain elements alive when it is shut off -- the time of day clock for example.


If that battery has failed it may be screwing things up.


I don't recall any discussion of an internal battery in past posts, or whether such a battery might be user replaceable. But this is a common problem in computers.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15668490
> 
> 
> I believe he is trying to abdicate this task. If someone (not me!) would like to take on the onerous duties of managing the first post of this thread, that might help -- but I don't think the mods can just change the thread starter. They'd have to copy all 600+ pages of this thread into a new thread. Which would also break links we have in other threads pointing into this thread. Limitations of the forum software....
> 
> 
> ETA: That would also break links WITHIN this thread to other posts in this thread. For example all the post links collected in the first post of this thread would end up broken.
> 
> --Bob



I stand by my KICK Levesque into action


----------



## rabident

What is the thought process for those buying the D2v instead of the 50v? i.e. if you would, step me through why the D2v is worth more than the 50v. I understand value is different for everyone, but I'm just trying to understand the real world differences between the two.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As you can imagine, there's already been some discussion of that in this thread. For example, you might want to start reading with this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post15546653 


--Bob


----------



## buckley44

Bob here are my measurments like you suggested.you can see my settings in the target window,they seem too be a little better, i tried the 2000 setting but it seemed to high like it was throwing off my right speaker. THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP....let me know if you would download these settings. and if i do can i still retrieve my old settings through the saved user settings if i prefer the old ones over these...

 

arc v2.01#3.doc 440k . file


----------



## buckley44

sorry bob that was the 20,000 not 2000 for the max eq.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15671791
> 
> 
> Bob here are my measurments like you suggested.you can see my settings in the target window,they seem too be a little better, i tried the 2000 setting but it seemed to high like it was throwing off my right speaker. THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP....let me know if you would download these settings. and if i do can i still retrieve my old settings through the saved user settings if i prefer the old ones over these...



These results look very good indeed, and should sound wonderful compared to your uncorrected setup. You'll have to trust your ears as to whether they sound better than your previous ARC results.


By all means give them an Upload and a listen!


--------------------------------------------------------------


Now you can't return to your prior ARC results by loading Saved User Settings. Although that will indeed reload the prior set of crossover and speaker volume trim values, it will NOT overwrite the special memory containing the room correction parameters.


Instead what you should do is simply open up your prior ARC results file (in advanced mode) and do an Upload. That will bring in the prior set of room correction parameters as well as their matching set of crossover and speaker volume trim values.


The reason you Save User and/or Installer Settings after doing an ARC Upload is so that you don't accidentally lose the crossover and speaker volume trim values later by doing a Reload from those memories. But the room correction parameters themselves are only affected by the Upload and the Erase functions in the ARC application.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

Bob thank you very much, do you ever get any sleep, your on here day and night...


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/15669955
> 
> 
> FYI, this started happening to my D2 about 8 months ago (slow boot, video no audio, sluggish, to say the least, remote response)... I finally isolated it to, for me anyways, the D2 losing power for more than a short period. I haven't done any scientific testing (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but my casual testing has shown that any power loss of more than 20 minutes has always been a guarantee of this symptom. It is not so certain if the power loss is shorter.
> 
> 
> As others have noted, a firmware erase followed by a firmware flash has always recovered things for me... until the next power outage that is long enough which fortunately does not happen too much around here.
> 
> 
> I was waiting to get this addressed (along with my noisy/hot power supply hopefully) when I send the D2 in for the D2v upgrade if that ever comes around.



You may have something there because I had the same thing happen to my AVM 50 after retuning from a one week vacation in which I unplugged all my home theater equipment from the A/C outlets.


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15670538
> 
> 
> I stand by my KICK Levesque into action



I just opened another business, so I now have double the employes to managed, double the inventory, etc, and don't have any spare times anymore...










So if Bob can send me PM with links, it will be my pleasure to make the changes on the first post when I have some spare time.










Have fun all with your new ''toys''.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/15673868
> 
> 
> I just opened another business, so I now have double the employes to managed, double the inventory, etc, and don't have any spare times anymore...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if Bob can send me PM with links, it will be my pleasure to make the changes on the first post when I have some spare time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have fun all with your new ''toys''.



I THINK all Bob Needs is the TITLE Change.


That should take all of 30 seconds.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/15669955
> 
> 
> FYI, this started happening to my D2 about 8 months ago (slow boot, video no audio, sluggish, to say the least, remote response)... I finally isolated it to, for me anyways, the D2 losing power for more than a short period. I haven't done any scientific testing (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but my casual testing has shown that any power loss of more than 20 minutes has always been a guarantee of this symptom. It is not so certain if the power loss is shorter.
> 
> 
> As others have noted, a firmware erase followed by a firmware flash has always recovered things for me... until the next power outage that is long enough which fortunately does not happen too much around here.
> 
> 
> I was waiting to get this addressed (along with my noisy/hot power supply hopefully) when I send the D2 in for the D2v upgrade if that ever comes around.



My D2 also has this problem, but only after I upload ARC files to it. I have to flash erase and re-load all my settings to fix it, then it works great again. ARC worked for a month or two for me, but after that this problem started showing up. It's a bummer to know how good ARC sounds, but not be able to use it! Nick knows about this, and we were hoping that the latest ARC version would fix it, but it didn't, so I'm waiting for the next thing to try.


----------



## BillW

I just called Anthem to try and pry some info out of them regarding upgrades. Pierro said the issue they are having is that the amount of parts and software changes vary from D1 to D2 but also depending on when the D2 was made (I'm thinking new or old video board) but we did not get into it.

He did say by the end of next week they should pricing firmed up and maybe even posted on the web site. I also asked about the new faceplate and he said there was a lot of interest it that (he sounded a little suprised). As far as when they would be ready for starting the upgrades he said they already had a long list of people that wanted to send units in (my email is now on the list). They were going to start with those and then open it up to the non pre register. Even for those on the sign up it will be another month or so he thought.

I totally failed to get pricing although previously I was told between 2000 and 2500 and that was without the faceplate. I hope it's less!!


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15674081
> 
> 
> I THINK all Bob Needs is the TITLE Change.
> 
> 
> That should take all of 30 seconds.



I know, but I dont have a clue where to press to edit the title!!!!







Just tell me ''where'', and I will do it!


I did ask the owner of AVS (Alan Gouger) to change the title of this thread, but never heard anything back form him.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15674081
> 
> 
> I THINK all Bob Needs is the TITLE Change.
> 
> 
> That should take all of 30 seconds.



That's correct. At some point we'll need some editing in the body of the first post, but for now all we need is the title changed so folks realize this is still the master thread for the new units:


"Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide"


--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE

LOL! Did it!


I'm soooo ''computer-challenged''...










But doing it with 3 doctors waiting for me on my phone lines, 15 patients waiting in front of me, and 2 pharmaceutical representatives (always beautiful woman...) also waiting for me, it's quite an accomplishment!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/15674739
> 
> 
> I know, but I dont have a clue where to press to edit the title!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just tell me ''where'', and I will do it!
> 
> 
> I did ask the owner of AVS (Alan Gouger) to change the title of this thread, but never heard anything back form him.



It's supposed to be doable if you go into Edit for the first post.


Hang on, I'll check in the "test post" forum.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OK, go to the first post. Click on Edit in the lower right to bring up the "in line" editing panel. Then click on Go Advanced in the lower right of that to switch to the full editing page.


Above the box where you type in the body of the post you'll find a Title line which you can use to edit the thread title. Change that and click on Save Changes below the body text type in box.


I just tried this in the test post area and it does the title change without changing the thread ID number (which is the key to make sure you aren't breaking links into the thread).

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15674891
> 
> 
> OK, go to the first post. Click on Edit in the lower right to bring up the "in line" editing panel. Then click on Go Advanced in the lower right of that to switch to the full editing page.
> 
> 
> Above the box where you type in the body of the post you'll find a Title line which you can use to edit the thread title. Change that and click on Save Changes in the lower right of the body text type in box.
> 
> --Bob



That's what I did.... and... not working










It's only changing the title of the first post, not the title of the thread...


If it was a thread about a Denon pre/pro, the moderators would do it in 2 seconds and put a ''sticky'' on top of the forum in 1/2 second... but since AVS can't sell Anthem... it's not...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Hmmm, maybe it takes a while to propagate the change to the list of threads.


Hang on, I'll check again in the test post area.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't understand. It works fine in the post testing forum, even with more than one post in the thread, and the change in the list of threads is immediate.


Deep sigh. We are going to have to find a mod. I'll take care of that.

--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE

It's a conspiration... They don't want people to know that they can now buy the D2v instead of a ''mass-market'' pre/pro from Denon...


Just kidding!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well we'll just have to counter that with the vast Canadian conspiracy!


Boy it's been a while since THAT topic came up!










I just posted a cry for help in the Forum Operations Center. The mods monitor that constantly, so if this is fixable it should get fixed soon.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Eh voilÃ*!


ETA: The mod said that once a thread has been replied to (apparently meaning by someone other than the thread starter) only a mod can change the title.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/15674591
> 
> 
> I just called Anthem to try and pry some info out of them regarding upgrades. Pierro said the issue they are having is that the amount of parts and software changes vary from D1 to D2 but also depending on when the D2 was made (I'm thinking new or old video board) but we did not get into it.
> 
> He did say by the end of next week they should pricing firmed up and maybe even posted on the web site. I also asked about the new faceplate and he said there was a lot of interest it that (he sounded a little suprised). As far as when they would be ready for starting the upgrades he said they already had a long list of people that wanted to send units in (my email is now on the list). They were going to start with those and then open it up to the non pre register. Even for those on the sign up it will be another month or so he thought.
> 
> I totally failed to get pricing although previously I was told between 2000 and 2500 and that was without the faceplate. I hope it's less!!



Thanks for trying! We'll just have to see what comes out in the next week.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/15674280
> 
> 
> My D2 also has this problem, but only after I upload ARC files to it. I have to flash erase and re-load all my settings to fix it, then it works great again. ARC worked for a month or two for me, but after that this problem started showing up. It's a bummer to know how good ARC sounds, but not be able to use it! Nick knows about this, and we were hoping that the latest ARC version would fix it, but it didn't, so I'm waiting for the next thing to try.



If you haven't already done so, try this:


Reload Factory Defaults. Do NOT reload Saved User or Installer settings.


Now open your latest ARC results file in advanced mode and Upload it.


Now go into the Setup menu and MANUALLY make just enough changes to listen to a source. Do NOT reload Saved User or Installer settings.


Does your system still freeze up? If not, then you may have something corrupted in either your saved Setup or Video Source Adjust menu settings that is screwing up the boot up of the Anthem after you Upload ARC results. You may be able to get around this by manually re-entering your settings (and then saving them into User and Installer). If you have saved a copy of your current Setup and your Video Source Adjust menu settings to PC files, emailing them to Anthem might mean the engineers can even figure out the nature of what got corrupted.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15675312
> 
> 
> Eh voilÃ*!
> 
> 
> ETA: The mod said that once a thread has been replied to (apparently meaning by someone other than the thread starter) only a mod can change the title.
> 
> --Bob



It has the changed now - I even see it in my e-mail notifications.


Thanks Levesque


----------



## spiderv6

I'm getting myself organized for the imminent arrival and ordering a few cables that I want to renew.


Is there any way to tell if my existing HDMI cables are 1.3 capable? I assume I want to have those to ensure I avoid any bandwidth issues.


The couple of existing cables I have unfortunately have no markings or model numbers that allow me to track down a spec sheet. Anyway to tell what I have?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nope.


Unless they are labeled, the cables designed and tested to the stricter HDMI V1.3 specs are indistinguishable from older cables that might be just as good, but which weren't subjected to those stricter standards.


If you are going to buy new cables, I suggest you check out Blue Jeans cable or Monoprice. (Forum sponsors and well regarded here -- personally I buy from Blue Jeans.) Blue Jeans cable has two types of "best" HDMI cable -- one for shorter distances and a different one for longer distances.

--Bob


----------



## zr123

Quick Q:


The AVM50v has 2 HDMI outs, however can they work simultaneously? For example, if we wanted to use one of those outs to power the pj and one to power a monitor inside the sound booth, would that work?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15677238
> 
> 
> Quick Q:
> 
> 
> The AVM50v has 2 HDMI outs, however can they work simultaneously? For example, if we wanted to use one of those outs to power the pj and one to power a monitor inside the sound booth, would that work?



They are "parallel", meaning they are both live at the same time but can only carry the same video output configuration. So you are fine so long as your monitor can accept the same video as your projector.


It's not yet clear whether that restriction will be relaxed in future firmware. The video processing chip used in the D2v and AVM 50v has two, independent video processing paths which are both used in the design, but the HDMI spec makes it tricky to satisfy copy protection with two different video output configurations.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15677071
> 
> 
> Nope.
> 
> 
> Unless they are labeled, the cables designed and tested to the stricter HDMI V1.3 specs are indistinguishable from older cables that might be just as good, but which weren't subjected to those stricter standards.
> 
> 
> If you are going to buy new cables, I suggest you check out Blue Jeans cable or Monoprice. (Forum sponsors and well regarded here -- personally I buy from Blue Jeans.) Blue Jeans cable has two types of "best" HDMI cable -- one for shorter distances and a different one for longer distances.
> 
> --Bob



Yep, pretty much what I thought.


blue Jeans is my cable provider of choice every time.....


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15675117
> 
> 
> Well we'll just have to counter that with the vast Canadian conspiracy!
> 
> 
> Boy it's been a while since THAT topic came up!



You're good! That was EXACTLY what I was thinking about while typing that ''insiders'' joke...










Good thing there is now 40-50 employes working at ''Bob Pariseau Inc.'' 24/24 7/7, to keep track of all those ''insides jokes'' and countless post and threads about the D2(v), and to answer each of them, sometimes in less then 1 minute, even in the middle of the night...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nice sig update...









--Bob


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15676379
> 
> 
> Thanks Levesque



Thank Bob! ... again! Not me!


I have nothing to do with it! One of the guys at ''Bob Pariseau Inc.'' did contact the moderator to change the title of the thread... not me!


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15677437
> 
> 
> Nice sig update...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



LOL!










I can't believe you even thaught about that and ask me to change it...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/15677415
> 
> 
> Good thing there is now 40-50 employes working at ''Bob Pariseau Inc.'' 24/24 7/7, to keep track of all those ''insides jokes'' and countless post and threads about the D2(v), and to answer each of them, sometimes in less then 1 minute, even in the middle of the night...



The folks in our thread monitoring "boiler room" in Singapore thank you for your kind words, and hope to be granted a day off soon -- perhaps even this year...










--Bob


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15677266
> 
> 
> They are "parallel", meaning they are both live at the same time but can only carry the same video output configuration. So you are fine so long as your monitor can accept the same video as your projector.
> 
> 
> It's not yet clear whether that restriction will be relaxed in future firmware. The video processing chip used in the D2v and AVM 50v has two, independent video processing paths which are both used in the design, but the HDMI spec makes it tricky to satisfy copy protection with two different video output configurations.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


The primary HDMI output would be to the Epson 7500UB projector (1080p) and the secondary one would probably go to a 19" Samsung LCD (likely LN19450). It is a 720p TV but can't seem to figure out whether or not it would accept a 1080p input signal.


How else would I be able to go about something like this? The reason why we're thinking about something like this is basically to save power/time in powering on the pj, raising the curtains, etc. Especially if it's just for small firmware updates or adjustments... It would be easier to do everything in the electrical/sound booth.


Any ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15677650
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> 
> The primary HDMI output would be to the Epson 7500UB projector (1080p) and the secondary one would probably go to a 19" Samsung LCD (likely LN19450). It is a 720p TV but can't seem to figure out whether or not it would accept a 1080p input signal.
> 
> 
> How else would I be able to go about something like this? The reason why we're thinking about something like this is basically to save power/time in powering on the pj, raising the curtains, etc. Especially if it's just for small firmware updates or adjustments... It would be easier to do everything in the electrical/sound booth.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



Some people use an S-video display for accessing the menus. You won't see the video content, but you can see the menus.

--Bob


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15677275
> 
> 
> Yep, pretty much what I thought.
> 
> 
> blue Jeans is my cable provider of choice every time.....



My choice too. Last time I was on the web site I noticed they are carrying HDMI 90 degree adapters and port savers now. So I bought some of both!


----------



## gostan

Bob,


I am skiing in powder today in Vermont, but my Dealer confirmed by email that my D2v was delivered today.


FYI, it was shipped on Friday and the enclosed picture shows that it shipped with v. 2.02 firmware.











I hope to be able to pick it up late tomorrow.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15678086
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I am skiing in powder today in Vermont, but my Dealer confirmed by email that my D2v was delivered today.
> 
> 
> FYI, it was shipped on Friday and the enclosed picture shows that it shipped with v. 2.02 firmware.
> 
> 
> I hope to be able to pick it up late tomorrow.



OH BOY = STAN has a NEW D2v2


----------



## Ron Alcasid

UPDATE: I erased the flash and reloaded the firmware and the audio has been restored and the unit is no longer sluggish but now I have a new problem. I just get a black screen from the HDMI output. The TV seems to recognize the 1080p 60Hz signal the AVM50 it's just nothing but black. I had got working for a while just reinserting all the HDMI cables. Then I turned the AVM 50 off cause I had to go and do something else. Then when I came back and turned it on it wasn't working again. What now? BTW, the display is a Pioneer Kuro 111FD. Are there issues with Pioneer displays and Anthem processors? All this trouble started happening when I replaced my Panasonic plasma with the Pioneer.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/15664818
> 
> 
> This weekend I setup my new plasma display, after getting everything hooked up I turned on AVM 50 I noticed that it took a really long time to complete it's power on process, it usually takes less than 10 seconds. Also the menus seem really slow to respond. Sometimes it takes 20 or 30 seconds for the display to respond when I press a button. The worst problem is I am not getting audio from any digital input and it's unable to generate the internal speaker calibration sound. Resetting factory default settings did not help. I tried to upload the firmware again. The updater finds the AVM 50 turns it on but it fails because the unit "failed to enter debug mode". What else can I do? Thanks.


----------



## buckley44

BOB i wrote too you last night about my settings for arc and i loaded them today , the only weird thing i noticed that on my targets for the new arc v2.o1 my setting for my sub was 80. when i loaded today and looked in my settings for my d2 the sub was set at 60 how did it load at that 60 setting?


Thanks, George


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15678197
> 
> 
> BOB i wrote too you last night about my settings for arc and i loaded them today , the only weird thing i noticed that on my targets for the new arc v2.o1 my setting for my sub was 80. when i loaded today and looked in my settings for my d2 the sub was set at 60 how did it load at that 60 setting?
> 
> 
> Thanks, George



This is normal. The new ARC allows the room correction processing "cutoffs" shown in the Targets window to differ from the bass management crossovers Uploaded into the Setup menu. This extra degree of freedom allows the new ARC to come up with better solutions.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

when i uploaded the new settings i dont have to erase the old ones do i . i should just save the new settings and they will write over the old ones?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/15678167
> 
> 
> UPDATE: I erased the flash and reloaded the firmware and the audio has been restored and the unit is no longer sluggish but now I have a new problem. I just get a black screen from the HDMI output. The TV seems to recognize the 1080p 60Hz signal the AVM50 it's just nothing but black. I had got working for a while just reinserting all the HDMI cables. Then I turned the AVM 50 off cause I had to go and do something else. Then when I came back and turned it on it wasn't working again. What now? BTW, the display is a Pioneer Kuro 111FD. Are there issues with Pioneer displays and Anthem processors? All this trouble started happening when I replaced my Panasonic plasma with the Pioneer.



No there are no issues with Pioneer displays.


Take a step back and carefully recheck how you have things wired and the settings in your Setup menu.


What you are reporting could be just a matter of a loose HDMI cable -- perhaps pulled slightly by the weight of the cable. But it could also be a simple settings error in Setup.


--------------------------------------


See if you can get the Setup menu or the volume on-screen display to show up. If so then the problem is on the source (input) side of your Anthem. If not then the problem is on the display (output) side.


If the problem is on the display side, then using the front panel to follow what you are doing, go into Setup > Video Output and try 480p output from the Anthem temporarily. This is the "simplest" HDMI signal.


Try the "wiggle test": Grab the HDMI cable about an inch from the socket and push it gently straight in, then give it a gentle wiggle -- try both ends of the cable. If you get a signal this way then the cable may need some support near the socket.


If none of this works, grab a flashlight and take a careful look at each HDMI socket and plug looking for pin damage.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/15678541
> 
> 
> when i uploaded the new settings i dont have to erase the old ones do i . i should just save the new settings and they will write over the old ones?



When you do an Upload from the ARC application all the necessary changes get put into your Anthem. There's no need to "Erase" first. The "Erase" function is for eliminating the current ARC room correction parameters in your Anthem -- for example if you are about to sell it.


After you do an ARC Upload, and have checked that things look OK in your Setup menu, then do a Save User and/or Installer settings to capture the Uploaded Setup menu changes into those memories.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

i have the 150fd elite pioneer with my d2 and never had any problems,im sure its something simple now, go and check your settings on your pioneer on the output side, when i have had issues its usually because i get frustrated and forget something stupid. good luck..


----------



## mikepebble

Thanks for all the help,Bob! I'll will get better at this as time goes on. I'll download arc ver 2.0 and follow your direction. I'm excited because I believe that my theatre experience will just get better.You got me excited! Thanks again for being that person who always willing to share! Mikpebble


----------



## billatlakegeorge

My D2v is on Fedex for delivery tomorrow. I probably won't install until Monday, Superbowl Party.


I know there will be mixed opinions on this but should I switch to balanced connections between D2v and amp?


----------



## spiderv6

Mixed opinions about waiting until MONDAY???? I doubt it - everyone will wonder how you can hold yourself back until then










I just ordered balanced cables yesterday (from Blue Jeans). I guess the simple question is - why wouldnt you?


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15683412
> 
> 
> My D2v is on Fedex for delivery tomorrow. I probably won't install until Monday, Superbowl Party.
> 
> 
> I know there will be mixed opinions on this but should I switch to balanced connections between D2v and amp?



Yes. If anything, a grounded cable is always preferred..


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15683412
> 
> 
> My D2v is on Fedex for delivery tomorrow. I probably won't install until Monday, Superbowl Party.
> 
> 
> I know there will be mixed opinions on this but should I switch to balanced connections between D2v and amp?



If you only have short runs and don't want to spend the money for new cables you will probably not see a sonic benefit.


However, if you have longer runs (my amp for the fronts is about 20 ft away) then I would recommend them. I actually like them for short runs because they are a more solid connection and I have a cat who tends to like to wander anywhere she can get...










Mike


----------



## BillW

Balanced is better and the cables are not that much more. At BJC they are 80 for 15 feet; RCA are 50. A big percentage but 30 is not alot in comparison to the total job cost, and it eliminates the possibility of any ground hum. When I bought mine I had them do one end, fished the other end and did those terminations myself (they included the necessary ends).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/15684134
> 
> 
> Balanced is better and the cables are not that much more. At BJC they are 80 for 15 feet; RCA are 50. A big percentage but 30 is not alot in comparison to the total job cost, and it eliminates the possibility of any ground hum. When I bought mine I had them do one end, fished the other end and did those terminations myself (they included the necessary ends).



And at *MonoPrice* they are $9.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I went balanced also. I was quoted 800.00 including a 50 foot cable for my sub. The good folks here at AVS explained I was getting scammed. I ended up finding a Pro Audio shop in my city (concert stuff) and I got all six cables for 110.00 dollars.


I can't say how much of a difference they'll make. I was using RCA's when I was running my Denon 3808ci. I changed over to balanced cables when I got the D2. The difference was noticeable but I can't say what was due to the D2 and ARC and what was due to the balanced cables??? I haven't done an A/B running the D2, RCA vs. Balanced!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15684285
> 
> 
> I went balanced also. I was quoted 800.00 including a 50 foot cable for my sub. The good folks here at AVS explained I was getting scammed. I ended up finding a Pro Audio shop in my city (concert stuff) and I got all six cables for 110.00 dollars.
> 
> 
> I can't say how much of a difference they'll make. I was using RCA's when I was running my Denon 3808ci. I changed over to balanced cables when I got the D2. The difference was noticeable but I can't say what was due to the D2 and ARC and what was due to the balanced cables??? I haven't done an A/B running the D2, RCA vs. Balanced!



Balanced cables do one thing and only one thing.


They HELP Eliminate Ground Loops.


If you don't have a system with Ground Loops - no HUMAN

will ever hear the difference. I'm speaking as an EE.


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15683549
> 
> 
> Mixed opinions about waiting until MONDAY???? I doubt it - everyone will wonder how you can hold yourself back until then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just ordered balanced cables yesterday (from Blue Jeans). I guess the simple question is - why wouldnt you?



I know waiting till Monday...... but I want to make sure everything goes without a hitch for my party. I currently use RCA from my D2 without any issues so I guess I will stay with them unless there is another compelling argument.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Fresh Batch of Cookies!*


The first person who actually powers up a new D2v and reports that it came with V2.02 (or later) firmware factory installed gets a cookie!


The first person who powers up a new AVM 50v and reports the firmware version (any version) factory installed in it also gets a cookie!


The first person who reports having received ARC V2.0.1 (or later) bundled with a new D2v or AVM 50v gets yet another cookie!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Balanced cables look cool and provide pride of ownership and the peace of mind that comes with most placebos, and for that they may very well be worth the extra money.


But most home theater setups do not need them.


Balanced cables reject external interference over long cable runs in environments with heavy electrical interference. This is why they are used in professional studios -- lots of long runs and lots of interference floating around. They do this by carrying the signal twice, in parallel -- either side of ground -- and then combining the two copies of the signal at the receiving end. Any interference entering the signal along the length of the cable affects both copies the same way (the same side of ground), and so it is automatically cancelled out when the signals are combined.


In environments with lots of interference, and over long cable runs, balanced cables reject interference better then well made, normal, shielded cables. But good quality, normal, shielded cables are just fine for most home theater setups because the runs are short and the level of interference floating around that might get past the shielding is just too low to worry about.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15683412
> 
> 
> My D2v is on Fedex for delivery tomorrow. I probably won't install until Monday, Superbowl Party.
> 
> 
> I know there will be mixed opinions on this but should I switch to balanced connections between D2v and amp?



Congratulation!


If you can use balanced cables.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15678086
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I am skiing in powder today in Vermont, but my Dealer confirmed by email that my D2v was delivered today.
> 
> 
> FYI, it was shipped on Friday and the enclosed picture shows that it shipped with v. 2.02 firmware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope to be able to pick it up late tomorrow.



This is great.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

...but no cookie!

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15684950
> 
> 
> ...but no cookie!
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Just sitting eating lunch at Sugarbush VT after skiing this morning in 20 + inches of snow.


I will be heading back to Boston, after lunch, but my chance at a cookie will definitely have to wait. We do not get too many 20 inch powder dumps in NE!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here's an updated "weekly backorder" report from Paradigm/Anthem dated 1/26/09.

http://www.amgav.com/docs/paradigmin...atusreport.pdf 


The dates it shows are:


D2v: Next shipments Jan 30

D2v 17 1/4 inch: Next shipments Jan 30


AVM 50v black: First shipments Jan 30

AVM 50v silver: First shipments Feb 3


Putting "Next Shipments" on the D2v lines is *MY* interpretation. I.e., I believe this reports means that orders placed (by dealers, via their Anthem dealer reps) up to Jan 26, and not already fulfilled, should ship on Jan 30 as opposed to that's the date an order would be expected to arrive at a dealer.


The 17 1/4 inch date is a bit surprising since usually the non-standard configurations have an extra 4-6 weeks delay. Perhaps they made more of those for the first batch than have been covered by pre-orders. I'm also surprised that the "rack mount" configuration is not listed.


The report also shows the original AVM 50, with or without ARC bundled, and all variations of the D2 have now been discontinued. I don't see a statement regarding the AVM 40.


ETA: Note that this is a report for US dealer reps, so don't draw any conclusions from the fact that it doesn't show status for "high voltage" models for 220V markets.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As long as I've got this batch of cookies, I should point out that there are cookies reserved for the first Anthem dealer following this thread that can announce the official Anthem US MSRP for the AVM 50v, confirm or refute the $7499 US MSRP for the D2v that has previously been reported here, and give any useful info on whether these are introductory prices and when (and how much) they are expected to change.


ETA: As always, only Anthem MSRP (including any Anthem authorized sale pricing) should be posted in this thread. Info on further discounts/deals available from any source should be handled through PMs. This is to keep the AVS Forum mods from looking sharply in our direction.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15686041
> 
> 
> Here's an updated "weekly backorder" report from Paradigm/Anthem dated 1/26/09.
> 
> 
> ......I'm also surprised that the "rack mount" configuration is not listed.



no no no.....guess which one i've ordered.......


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Doing a Google on "Anthem D2v dealer", I see there is at least one US dealer who appears to be stating they are allowed to ship to you if you have no Authorized Anthem dealer within 100 miles of your address. I don't know how accurate this is, but it's the first time I've seen the restriction actually quantified like this.


I don't post dealer names as a rule so you'll have to do the search yourself if you want to follow up on this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15686269
> 
> 
> no no no.....guess which one i've ordered.......



Don't panic.


If you read the backorder report, it says that products not listed are shipping *NOW*.


I'm just surprised that the rack mount configuration is not listed as backorder. Usually the rack mount and the 17 1/4 configurations are special orders with an extra 4-6 weeks lead time.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

One thing I am really looking forward to in the AVM 50V, is the possibility that the buzzing problem we have had for at least a year may not occur in the new model upgrade. Here's hoping









John

Bob,

How about a cookie for the first post that this problem is gone?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15686734
> 
> 
> One thing I am really looking forward to in the AVM 50V, is the possibility that the buzzing problem we have had for at least a year may not occur in the new model upgrade. Here's hoping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John
> 
> Bob,
> 
> How about a cookie for the first post that this problem is gone?



How about a cookie for all of us who DO NOT have the problem.


Something is just wrong.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15686734
> 
> 
> One thing I am really looking forward to in the AVM 50V, is the possibility that the buzzing problem we have had for at least a year may not occur in the new model upgrade. Here's hoping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John
> 
> Bob,
> 
> How about a cookie for the first post that this problem is gone?



That's either a bug or a hardware flaw in the AVM 50. It should not take a new design release to fix this -- unless of course Anthem intends to offer free AVM 50v upgrades as the fix!

--Bob


----------



## HT_n_Me

But what exactly is the difference between the D2v and the AVM50?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15686996
> 
> 
> That's either a bug or a hardware flaw in the AVM 50. It should not take a new design release to fix this -- unless of course Anthem intends to offer free AVM 50v upgrades as the fix!
> 
> --Bob



It may not take a new design, but here's hoping the upgrade does it when I get it done sometime in Feb or March.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15687155
> 
> 
> It may not take a new design, but here's hoping the upgrade does it when I get it done sometime in Feb or March.
> 
> John



More than likely the upgrade will indeed fix whatever

is wrong - but the bottom line is something is wrong now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HT_n_Me* /forum/post/15687068
> 
> 
> But what exactly is the difference between the D2v and the AVM50?



I presume you are actually asking about the difference between the D2v and the AVM 50v (the two new models). The video solution and the inputs/outputs are identical. The D2v has a more exotic audio solution. Here's a post that may help:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post15546653 


--Bob


----------



## HT_n_Me

Thanks Bob.


I did go out and do my homework though and read all the pdf downloads from the website (can you tell from that I'm bored today?). I'm up to speed now on the differences.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15687209
> 
> 
> More than likely the upgrade will indeed fix whatever
> 
> is wrong - but the bottom line is something is wrong now.



It had been suggested that a new firmware version, particularly with some HDMI fixes could prevent this but nothing so far.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15687434
> 
> 
> It had been suggested that a new firmware version, particularly with some HDMI fixes could prevent this but nothing so far.
> 
> John



The problem seems to be a unique one that you experience.


I believe the general consensus is no one else has this problem.


If we did it would be filling this thread.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15687558
> 
> 
> The problem seems to be a unique one that you experience.
> 
> 
> I believe the general consensus is no one else has this problem.
> 
> 
> If we did it would be filling this thread.



Actually several other members have posted this problem. Even Nick said he could duplicate it on an AVM50 at the factory. Perhaps some people just accept this and don't complain.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15687741
> 
> 
> Actually several other members have posted this problem. Even Nick said he could duplicate it on an AVM50 at the factory. Perhaps some people just accept this and don't complain.
> 
> John



My two cent opinion is it is unacceptable










But if it makes you BUY the Upgrade then that is good marketing


----------



## jayray

Just got an email from Nick and he said I could swap out the DACs if I want but it's up to me whether I do it or wait for the upgrade as that may well fix it. He said to let him know when I want to bring it in but I have opted for the upgrade for other reasons of course









John


----------



## rabident

What is MSRP on the D2v and 50v ?


Also, when is the 50v going to be available for purchase?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rabident* /forum/post/15687948
> 
> 
> What is MSRP on the D2v and 50v ?
> 
> 
> Also, when is the 50v going to be available for purchase?



The pricing is not quite clear yet as Anthem appears to be doing some sort of short term promotional pricing and some of the dealers who post these details have not posted since just before CES earlier this month.


The best we have right now is that the MSRP on the D2v is $7499 -- perhaps to go up in a few weeks, perhaps not.


The AVM 50v appears to still be $2000 cheaper or $5499, but we've not actually had that confirmed yet. And that price, too, may be going up soon.


And again, these would be Anthem's Manufacturer Suggested Retail Prices. We've had quite a few posts here indicating that Anthem dealers are discounting from those prices in these current, parlous, economic times, but of course the AVS Forum frowns on details of such deals being posted (take it to PMs).


The D2v has been shipping for over a week now (confirmed). The AVM 50v is supposed to start shipping tomorrow if it hasn't happened already.


Both units are priced and shipped bundled with ARC.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

Now I know why they are back ordered - have you guys looked on Audiogon lately??? It's a D2 and D1 fest!


Recession? What recession?!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Some savvy people who realize they don't need the upgrade are likely going to get some good deals on used D2 units.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15689455
> 
> 
> Some savvy people who realize they don't need the upgrade are likely going to get some good deals on used D2 units.
> 
> --Bob



One of the units for sale on Audiogon is a dealers demo unit, and another is a D1 upgraded to a D2.


There is a new unit for sale on e_bay, with this description: "This item is new, in the factory sealed box. Does not come with a factory warranty, but it does come with a super deal. It is the latest version 1.3 with the new ARC, (*ambient room correction*)."


Cool! Ambient Room Correction! I assume this automatically adjusts the temperature in our home theaters? What will Anthem think of next?!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15689455
> 
> 
> Some savvy people who realize they don't need the upgrade are likely going to get some good deals on used D2 units.
> 
> --Bob



Just checked Canuckaudiomart, our version of Audiogon, and not one D2 or AVM50 for sale. May be time to upgrade to a D2V









John


----------



## funlvr1965

lately my the handshake switching between my ps3 and hd dvd player and projector have been getting worse, no blue screens just flashing screens of snow until it finally locks on sometimes taking what seems like forever. I have the D1-HD with ARC, I have only done one firmware upgrade so far and I dont believe its the latest. What is the current proven update (no beta) and will I lose my source or any settings including the settings in ARC by updating the firmware? will this also take care of this handshake issue? One more thing, I have the Marantz 11S2 projector and want to use to try using the Gennum inside the projector what should the video settings inside the Anthem be.

Thanks in advance


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/15690026
> 
> 
> lately my the handshake switching between my ps3 and hd dvd player and projector have been getting worse, no blue screens just flashing screens of snow until it finally locks on sometimes taking what seems like forever. I have the D1-HD with ARC, I have only done one firmware upgrade so far and I dont believe its the latest. What is the current proven update (no beta) and will I lose my source or any settings including the settings in ARC by updating the firmware? will this also take care of this handshake issue? One more thing, I have the Marantz 11S2 projector and want to use to try using the Gennum inside the projector what should the video settings inside the Anthem be.
> 
> Thanks in advance



I have some of these same issues with my ps3 but not other sources. The snow and flickering until it syncs up is a pain. Perhaps one of the many firmware updates of the ps3 may be the cause. I have tried both with Framelock on and off and the result is the same.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/15690026
> 
> 
> lately my the handshake switching between my ps3 and hd dvd player and projector have been getting worse, no blue screens just flashing screens of snow until it finally locks on sometimes taking what seems like forever. I have the D1-HD with ARC, I have only done one firmware upgrade so far and I dont believe its the latest. What is the current proven update (no beta) and will I lose my source or any settings including the settings in ARC by updating the firmware? will this also take care of this handshake issue? One more thing, I have the Marantz 11S2 projector and want to use to try using the Gennum inside the projector what should the video settings inside the Anthem be.
> 
> Thanks in advance



You don't say what version of firmware you have installed now.


In any event, the firmware you should be using is V1.33. You can download the install kit from Anthem's public download page.


To do the firmware install you will need to Reload Factory Defaults, so you should Save User Settings first, then Reload Factory Defaults, then install the firmware, then Reload Saved User Settings. Be sure you have no powered HDMI connections during the firmware install (I recommend you remove wall power from your display and sources).


After that I recommend that you open up your ARC results file in Advanced mode and do a new Upload to be sure your ARC data is all installed correctly.


CAUTION: If you are are updating from a firmware version older than V1.29j then you will need to take an additional step using the Live Video Settings Editor utility (part of the V1.33 firmware install kit) to save your Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file and to restore them after the firmware install. Read the text file that comes with the V1.33 firmware install kit for details.


------------------------------------------------


The current ARC version is V2.0.1 -- also downloadable from Anthem's public download page. After doing the firmware install you may want to install the new V2.0.1 ARC application on your Windows PC and do a new ARC setup. The new ARC appears to be a significant improvement over the previous ARC V1.2.5 which itself was a major improvement over all older ARC versions.


If you are upgrading from an ARC version older than V1.2 you will need to do an extra step to make sure your pair of licensing/calibration files gets installed in the correct, new, folder in Window's Program Files directory. Read the text file that comes with the ARC V2.0.1 installer for details.


------------------------------------------------


Handshake problems are often the result of marginal HDMI cables or loose plugs. HDMI plugs are just a friction fit and even the weight of the cable can shift them the tiny bit necessary to make the signal weak. Try the wiggle test where you grab the HDMI cable about an inch from the socket, push it gently straight into the socket, and give it a gentle wiggle to see if the connection is working better. If so you may need to support the cable in some fashion near the socket. Be sure to check both ends of the cable.


Since you are having this problem with all of your HDMI sources, you should look first to the cable from the Anthem to your display.


Firmware V1.33 is not perfect with HDMI, but I find it works very well with my PS3.


-----------------------------------------------


Typically, saying that you want to use the video processor in the display or projector means you want the Anthem to "pass through" the video signal unchanged from the source.


You can not do that with HDMI on the Anthem. HDMI output is always processed to whatever Video Output configuration you have specified.


You CAN if you wish "pass through" Component video input to Component video output -- but not to HDMI since the conversion from Component to HDMI is a type of processing and brings along all the rest. And of course you can't output HDMI sources as Component due to HDMI copy protection.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/15689528
> 
> 
> It is the latest version 1.3 with the new ARC, (*ambient room correction*)."
> 
> Cool! Ambient Room Correction!



Hmm, I guess ARC has been redundant for me then, I use Ketel1 Citron & Soda for my Ambient Room Correction.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15684812
> 
> *Fresh Batch of Cookies!*
> 
> 
> The first person who actually powers up a new D2v and reports that it came with V2.02 (or later) firmware factory installed gets a cookie!
> 
> 
> The first person who powers up a new AVM 50v and reports the firmware version (any version) factory installed in it also gets a cookie!
> 
> 
> The first person who reports having received ARC V2.0.1 (or later) bundled with a new D2v or AVM 50v gets yet another cookie!
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I cannot locate my digital camera to post a picture yet, but at about 9:15 PM last evening I installed my new D2v and the display shined with a nice blue 2.02.










And, the D2v comes with a 15' serial cable. I do not know how long Anthem has been doing that, but my original D2 w/ARC did not include a serial cable. This is a nice inclusion.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15692119
> 
> 
> Bob, I cannot locate my digital camera to post a picture yet,



Stan


Did you leave it behind in the VT Ski Lodge

where you were snapping Babe Pictures


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rabident* /forum/post/15687948
> 
> 
> What is MSRP on the D2v and 50v ?
> 
> 
> Also, when is the 50v going to be available for purchase?



D2v: 7499 USD or 7999 CAD

AVM 50v: 5499 USD or 5899 CAD


I have no clue on how much the upgrade will cost. We will know in a few weeks.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15692119
> 
> 
> And, the D2v comes with a 15' serial cable. I do not know how long Anthem has been doing that, but my original D2 w/ARC did not include a serial cable. This is a nice inclusion.



Presumably terminated with an RS-232 plug and no sign of a USB adapter?


I just placed an order for the Keyspan adapter on Amazon about 5 minutes ago........


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15692363
> 
> 
> Presumably terminated with an RS-232 plug and no sign of a USB adapter?
> 
> 
> I just placed an order for the Keyspan adapter on Amazon about 5 minutes ago........



I was concerned about using the adaptor. (paranoid) so I ended up getting a RS-232 card for my desktop. I disconnected the fans in my case and used a bluetooth wireless mouse to engage ARC. It worked awesome. BTW the RS 232 card was 1.00 at a local computer shop.










ETA: I got the 15' serial cable with my D2 that was shipped early December 08. The included cable isn't something new to the D2v.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I’d appreciate some clarification on PCM/Bitstream.


I will be upgrading to the D2v. 7.1 PCM is a must. Right now my theater is 5.1 but I want to add the additional two channels.


This is where things get cloudy for me. Right now I’m using the PS3 as my BD player. I’ve spent hours here at AVS reading about slow loading players and disc’s that won’t load at all. The PS3 is bulky but it’s fast and I’ve never feed it a bluray it couldn’t play. So for now I’m perfectly happy with it.


How will you set up your D2v? Would you go 7.1 PCM or will you send the signal bitstream? I know the PS3 can’t do that but I think I’ll replace the PS3 with the new Oppo once it’s released. That’s assuming its getting positive reviews once it’s out in the real world. The oppo is a great example because with it you can choose PCM or bitstream. Which would you/should I choose?


(btw, my gut says PCM... am I right???)


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15692551
> 
> 
> I’d appreciate some clarification on PCM/Bitstream.
> 
> 
> How will you set up your D2v? Would you go 7.1 PCM or will you send the signal bitstream? I know the PS3 can’t do that but I think I’ll replace the PS3 with the new Oppo once it’s released.
> 
> 
> (btw, my gut says PCM... am I right???)



In Theory Lossless Audio means just that.


It means the Audio you get should be the same whether

it is PCM or Bitstream.


That is why D2 owners TODAY enjoy lossless audio via

the PS3 doing the internal decode to PCM.


Correct - the PS3 can not bitstream.


I honestly doubt the Oppo will be better than the PS3.

I'm not saying it will not be good. What the PS3 has in

its favor is an EXTREME level of processing Horsepower

which lets it do things standalone players will not be

able to do.


BTW - EDITED comment


That is why I won't be upgrading to the D2v. The

D2 does everything I need today including 7.1.


----------



## kmr_269




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15690919
> 
> 
> You don't say what version of firmware you have installed now.
> 
> 
> In any event, the firmware you should be using is V1.33. You can download the install kit from Anthem's public download page.
> 
> ...
> 
> --Bob



What a timely topic. My PS3 has been acting this way since I got it, two years. I've got an AVM50 with V1.33, the PS3 was just upgraded to firmware 2.6, and the cables are all Blue Jeans Cable BJC Belden Series-1, from the PS3 to AVM50 to my Plasma, aPioneer Elite PRO-FHD1. I have two outputs setup, one for 60, one for 24, for games and movies respectively. The PS3 model is the original 80-gig version.


The handshake goes the same each time no matter the AMV50 output selected, several seconds of the display switching between blank screen and snow. I have tried reinstalling the firmware a few times, even going back to factory default and setting up manually, no dice.


At least the latest PS3 firmware fixed an issue I had playing Blu-ray Sleeping Beauty. You can image how how happy my 3 yr old is 


One other odd handshake I have very infrequently is with my Oppo DV-970HD. (Also at the latest firmware.) I see two issues. The first is that video starts but no sound, the second is the a loud annoying tone starts and the only way out is cycling the power on the DVD and AVM50. Both seems to happen right after handshake. Since these are so infrequent I have not figured out a definitive pattern.


Any other suggestions on the PS3?


Keith


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15692632
> 
> 
> In Theory Lossless Audio means just that.
> 
> BTW - EDITED comment
> 
> 
> That is why I won't be upgrading to the D2v. The
> 
> D2 does everything I need today including 7.1.



To be honest with you, I sort of have to upgrade to the D2v. When I purchased the D2 in early December I had decided the D2 would be all I'd need. I got the D2 for less than half of what the new D2v would be selling for. It was a deal too good to pass up. Then Anthem threw a wrench into the plan when they included a coupon for 50% off the D2v upgrade. The sale is only good for a year. A D2 for less than half price and 50% off the cost of the upgrade! How can I not take advantage of that?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15692958
> 
> 
> To be honest with you, I sort of have to upgrade to the D2v. When I purchased the D2 in early December I had decided the D2 would be all I'd need. I got the D2 for less than half of what the new D2v would be selling for. It was a deal too good to pass up. Then Anthem threw a wrench into the plan when they included a coupon for 50% off the D2v upgrade. The sale is only good for a year. A D2 for less than half price and 50% off the cost of the upgrade! How can I not take advantage of that?



I understand - they made you an offer you can't refuse


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kmr_269* /forum/post/15692942
> 
> 
> What a timely topic. My PS3 has been acting this way since I got it, two years. I've got an AVM50 with V1.33, the PS3 was just upgraded to firmware 2.6, and the cables are all Blue Jeans Cable BJC Belden Series-1, from the PS3 to AVM50 to my Plasma, aPioneer Elite PRO-FHD1. I have two outputs setup, one for 60, one for 24, for games and movies respectively. The PS3 model is the original 80-gig version.
> 
> 
> The handshake goes the same each time no matter the AMV50 output selected, several seconds of the display switching between blank screen and snow. I have tried reinstalling the firmware a few times, even going back to factory default and setting up manually, no dice.
> 
> 
> At least the latest PS3 firmware fixed an issue I had playing Blu-ray Sleeping Beauty. You can image how how happy my 3 yr old is
> 
> 
> One other odd handshake I have very infrequently is with my Oppo DV-970HD. (Also at the latest firmware.) I see two issues. The first is that video starts but no sound, the second is the a loud annoying tone starts and the only way out is cycling the power on the DVD and AVM50. Both seems to happen right after handshake. Since these are so infrequent I have not figured out a definitive pattern.
> 
> 
> Any other suggestions on the PS3?
> 
> 
> Keith



Add me to the list - it has always done this on my PS3. Blank/Snow/Blank/Snow........Sync.


Sometimes it takes longer than others.


Mike


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15693192
> 
> 
> Add me to the list - it has always done this on my PS3. Blank/Snow/Blank/Snow........Sync.
> 
> 
> Sometimes it takes longer than others.
> 
> 
> Mike



I've had that happen also. I didn't know to just wait it out. I've always just switched the source back to Sat for a second then back to the source I'm using for the PS3 and it always fixed the blank/snow issue right away.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15692119
> 
> 
> Bob, I cannot locate my digital camera to post a picture yet, but at about 9:15 PM last evening I installed my new D2v and the display shined with a nice blue 2.02.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, the D2v comes with a 15' serial cable. I do not know how long Anthem has been doing that, but my original D2 w/ARC did not include a serial cable. This is a nice inclusion.



That's good enough for me. Here, have a cookie!


The addition of a serial cable is a nice touch. This is the first we've heard that they changed the pack out for the D2v. Would you like a nice glass of milk to go with that?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15692242
> 
> 
> D2v: 7499 USD or 7999 CAD
> 
> AVM 50v: 5499 USD or 5899 CAD
> 
> 
> I have no clue on how much the upgrade will cost. We will know in a few weeks.



Tolstoi, I know you are not a dealer. Just how confident are you in these pricings? For example have you heard this direct from Anthem, or seen a dealer price list? And do you have any new info on whether this is promotional pricing that's about to go higher?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15692406
> 
> 
> ETA: I got the 15' serial cable with my D2 that was shipped early December 08. The included cable isn't something new to the D2v.



Interesting! I wonder when they changed the pack out?


I just checked the manuals and, indeed, the D2 manual lists a serial cable as part of the main unit pack out, and the D2v and AVM 50v manuals list a serial cable as part of the ARC-1 pack out (bundled with the main unit).

--Bob


----------



## shawnboston

Hi Everyone! Been reading for a while but this is my first official post (woo hoo!).


I just ordered an AVM50v from my local dealer and I can confirm that he quoted me $5499.00 - needless to say I pushed for a discount (which I received) because I thought all AVMs were on sale as per the Anthem site.


As posted earlier, the unit is expected to ship out on 2/3 and I CAN NOT WAIT to set it up.







I also ordered an A5 and new B&W speakers (804s and HTM3S) so, with luck, my new system will good to go by this time next week.


Hope this helps!

Shawn


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15692551
> 
> 
> I'd appreciate some clarification on PCM/Bitstream.
> 
> 
> I will be upgrading to the D2v. 7.1 PCM is a must. Right now my theater is 5.1 but I want to add the additional two channels.
> 
> 
> This is where things get cloudy for me. Right now I'm using the PS3 as my BD player. I've spent hours here at AVS reading about slow loading players and disc's that won't load at all. The PS3 is bulky but it's fast and I've never feed it a bluray it couldn't play. So for now I'm perfectly happy with it.
> 
> 
> How will you set up your D2v? Would you go 7.1 PCM or will you send the signal bitstream? I know the PS3 can't do that but I think I'll replace the PS3 with the new Oppo once it's released. That's assuming its getting positive reviews once it's out in the real world. The oppo is a great example because with it you can choose PCM or bitstream. Which would you/should I choose?
> 
> 
> (btw, my gut says PCM... am I right???)



I continue to recommend that people buy a player that does the decoding, and use it to send 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM to the D2v or AVM 50v.


The PS3 does this just fine.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kmr_269* /forum/post/15692942
> 
> 
> What a timely topic. My PS3 has been acting this way since I got it, two years. I've got an AVM50 with V1.33, the PS3 was just upgraded to firmware 2.6, and the cables are all Blue Jeans Cable BJC Belden Series-1, from the PS3 to AVM50 to my Plasma, aPioneer Elite PRO-FHD1. I have two outputs setup, one for 60, one for 24, for games and movies respectively. The PS3 model is the original 80-gig version.
> 
> 
> The handshake goes the same each time no matter the AMV50 output selected, several seconds of the display switching between blank screen and snow. I have tried reinstalling the firmware a few times, even going back to factory default and setting up manually, no dice.
> 
> 
> At least the latest PS3 firmware fixed an issue I had playing Blu-ray Sleeping Beauty. You can image how how happy my 3 yr old is
> 
> 
> One other odd handshake I have very infrequently is with my Oppo DV-970HD. (Also at the latest firmware.) I see two issues. The first is that video starts but no sound, the second is the a loud annoying tone starts and the only way out is cycling the power on the DVD and AVM50. Both seems to happen right after handshake. Since these are so infrequent I have not figured out a definitive pattern.
> 
> 
> Any other suggestions on the PS3?
> 
> 
> Keith



An HDMI handshake happens every time the video format changes between two devices -- for example when the resolution changes or when the frame rate changes.


An HDMI handshake takes about 2 seconds -- this is just the way HDMI works. If a retry is needed it will take longer.


During the handshake, the video will go out in various ways: Black screen or green screen or static screen. Exactly what happens to the video depends upon how the source device does the handshake.


Some devices actually end up doing TWO handshakes -- one for video and another for video plus audio. You only see the video go out during the first of those, but audio starts up a couple seconds after video starts up.


The PS3 is not unique in this, but it does have another way it changes video format: The PS3 (using recommended settings) switches between YCbCr output when playing Blu-Ray or standard DVDs and RGB output when showing the XMB user interface or playing most games. Check the Video Source Adjust > Info panel on the Anthem to see what you are getting at any point in time.


The squeal and audio problem from your older Oppo is, I believe, a known problem in that Oppo which I think has been corrected by a firmware update from Oppo, but I'm not sure of this.


The HDMI handshake from the source all the way to the display is driven by the source device. About the only thing the Anthem can do is force a retry. Thus most HDMI issues, at root, are due to flakey HDMI implementation in source devices. But the couple seconds loss of video during each handshake is just the way HDMI works. Blame an industry obsessed with copy protection.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15693476
> 
> 
> I've had that happen also. I didn't know to just wait it out. I've always just switched the source back to Sat for a second then back to the source I'm using for the PS3 and it always fixed the blank/snow issue right away.



If retries are happening, cycling the inputs on the Anthem forces a whole new handshake and often results in a good lock the first try.


However I've not had any problems with my PS3 completing the handshake properly after just a few seconds. It is the most stable of all the HDMI devices I've tried. If you are getting into long retry cycles with a PS3 -- 10 seconds or longer for example -- then you should revisit your cabling and how firmly the HDMI plugs are sitting in their sockets.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15693776
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone! Been reading for a while but this is my first official post (woo hoo!).
> 
> 
> I just ordered an AVM50v from my local dealer and I can confirm that he quoted me $5499.00 - needless to say I pushed for a discount (which I received) because I thought all AVMs were on sale as per the Anthem site.
> 
> 
> As posted earlier, the unit is expected to ship out on 2/3 and I CAN NOT WAIT to set it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also ordered an A5 and new B&W speakers (804s and HTM3S) so, with luck, my new system will good to go by this time next week.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps!
> 
> Shawn



Thanks for that Shawn! And welcome to the cool kids thread!

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15693963
> 
> 
> If retries are happening, cycling the inputs on the Anthem forces a whole new handshake and often results in a good lock the first try.
> 
> 
> However I've not had any problems with my PS3 completing the handshake properly after just a few seconds. It is the most stable of all the HDMI devices I've tried. If you are getting into long retry cycles with a PS3 -- 10 seconds or longer for example -- then you should revisit your cabling and how firmly the HDMI plugs are sitting in their sockets.
> 
> --Bob



No I wouldn't say I'm getting into long retry cycles with the PS3. It's happened but only a few times. Like maybe three times?!

_(totally off topic but my wife and I put the little guy down to sleep, popped a few bowls of popcorn, went down to the home theater and really enjoyed Forgetting Sarah Marshal last night. Us home theater people are so lucky. We have our very own escape without having to leave the house)_


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15693704
> 
> 
> Tolstoi, I know you are not a dealer. Just how confident are you in these pricings? For example have you heard this direct from Anthem, or seen a dealer price list? And do you have any new info on whether this is promotional pricing that's about to go higher?
> 
> --Bob



This is the numbers I keep hearing but as you mentionne in one of your previous posts we need a delear to confirm this.


More important we need a price for the upgrade...


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15693776
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone! Been reading for a while but this is my first official post (woo hoo!).
> 
> 
> I just ordered an AVM50v from my local dealer and I can confirm that he quoted me $5499.00 - needless to say I pushed for a discount (which I received) because I thought all AVMs were on sale as per the Anthem site.
> 
> 
> As posted earlier, the unit is expected to ship out on 2/3 and I CAN NOT WAIT to set it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also ordered an A5 and new B&W speakers (804s and HTM3S) so, with luck, my new system will good to go by this time next week.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps!
> 
> Shawn



This is great. Let us know when youwill recieve it.


----------



## jayray

Just talked to my Dealer about prices for the new Vs and they are the same as Tolstoi mentioned earlier.

D2V $7999 CDN

AVM50V $5899 CDN

This should serve as confirmation of the new prices. No upgrade price yet.

John


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15692958
> 
> 
> To be honest with you, I sort of have to upgrade to the D2v. When I purchased the D2 in early December I had decided the D2 would be all I'd need. I got the D2 for less than half of what the new D2v would be selling for. It was a deal too good to pass up. Then Anthem threw a wrench into the plan when they included a coupon for 50% off the D2v upgrade. The sale is only good for a year. A D2 for less than half price and 50% off the cost of the upgrade! How can I not take advantage of that?



Since you only need a D2 I will sacrifice myself and take your 50% D2V upgrade coupon for a cheap price.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15694346
> 
> 
> Just talked to my Dealer about prices for the new Vs and they are the same as Tolstoi mentioned earlier.
> 
> D2V $7999 CDN
> 
> AVM50V $5899 CDN
> 
> This should serve as confirmation of the new prices. No upgrade price yet.
> 
> John



This solve the price issue. Now lets wait for the cost of the upgrade.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

...if a dealer doesn't post soon, I'm going to eat that cookie myself...


There's still a cookie for the first person to install ARC and verify that a new D2v or AVM 50v has ARC V2.0.1 (or later) bundled with it.


And of course there's also a cookie for the first person to power up a new AVM 50v and report which version of firmware comes factory installed in it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For anyone who received one of the first batch of D2v units with firmware V2.00 factory installed: Since we've now confirmed that new D2v units are shipping with firmware V2.02 factory installed, I believe it is safe for folks to upgrade to that version.


This is a little scary since there is no V2.00 installer available to reverse this, but I'm sure Anthem tech support will deal with that if it becomes an issue for anyone.


AVM 50v owners may want to wait until we confirm new AVM 50v units are also being shipped with V2.02 factory installed.


We still don't know what changes were made between V2.00 and V2.02 except for one report that V2.02 is supposed to fix a problem with audio dropouts when listening to HDMI LPCM from the PS3.


Firmware V2.02 for the D2v and the AVM 50v is currently only available from Anthem's password protected download page. Presumably it will show up soon on the public download page -- possibly as part of a larger update presenting the D2v and AVM 50v on Anthem's web site. If you need it before that, and don't already have access to Anthem's tech support downloads, contact Anthem tech support for the access info.


NOTE 1: Firmware for the original D2 and AVM 50 units remains V1.33 for now.


NOTE 2: Any D2v or AVM 50v owner with access to the password protected download page should *NAB A COPY OF V2.02 NOW* even if you don't intend to install it right away. Then if a NEWER version of the firmware becomes available you will already have V2.02 as your fallback version in case something nasty goes wrong with the newer version. Don't wait on this as V2.02 may very well be removed from the download page when the newer version appears.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15693682
> 
> 
> That's good enough for me. Here, have a cookie!
> 
> 
> The addition of a serial cable is a nice touch. This is the first we've heard that they changed the pack out for the D2v. Would you like a nice glass of milk to go with that?
> 
> --Bob



2% Please.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15695504
> 
> 
> 2% Please.



2% What?


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15694362
> 
> 
> Since you only need a D2 I will sacrifice myself and take your 50% D2V upgrade coupon for a cheap price.



Seeing as I don't _need_ it I would give it to you but... the boys at Anthem are too smart for that. The coupon has my units serial number on it.







I'm assuming that means my unit only!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15695615
> 
> 
> Seeing as I don't _need_ it I would give it to you but... the boys at Anthem are too smart for that. The coupon has my units serial number on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming that means my unit only!



Yes - I'm sure they are too smart for the OLD COUPON SWITCH TRICK


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15695551
> 
> 
> 2% What?



Milk.


Keep up


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15695721
> 
> 
> Yes - I'm sure they are too smart for the OLD COUPON SWITCH TRICK



BTW, I'm kidding I wouldn't sell or give up my precious coupon! I have it put away in a very safe place.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15695780
> 
> 
> Milk.
> 
> 
> Keep up



That was my thought.


Stan SPILLED 2% Milk on his new D2v2


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As any sports fan knows, you are supposed to PUT YOUR DRINKS DOWN before doing the wave....










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The "Factory Authorized Sale" banner has now been removed from the Anthem Statement and Anthem AVM web sites.


However the sites continue to only show info on the original D2 and AVM 50 models.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15695996
> 
> 
> As any sports fan knows, you are supposed to PUT YOUR DRINKS DOWN before doing the wave....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Sorry Bob us Canucks we drink first, then wave, then order an other drink


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/15696696
> 
> 
> Sorry Bob us Canucks we drink first, then wave, then order an other drink



That's not entirely true. Sometimes we'll bite down on the cup and just hold it with our teeth as we do the wave. And we will not spill a drop!


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15695947
> 
> 
> That was my thought.
> 
> 
> Stan SPILLED 2% Milk on his new D2v2



92% Vodka would definitely be an issue.


By the way, my decision to upgrade to the D2v was based upon my ability to pre-sell my existing D2 at a good price to a local purchaser (no need to play the Audiogon game), the result of which is that the purchaser got a wonderful pre-pro and I have a new D2v at a price that should be substantially less than the upgrade price and will also save me from being D2less for a month, and having a unit that had mixed warranties throughout.


One has to jump to sell very quickly in this changing AV world. I do remain confident that the value of existing D2's will not diminish greatly as decoding lossless in the player and sending pcm to the pre-pro does work just fine. We have all been doing so for some time now.


----------



## buckley44

Not me i have one of those hats that holds a drink on each side with a straw going to my mouth. Actually im waving,drinking and writing this post all at the same time......


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" D2v/AVM 50v Firmware V2.02a on Password Protected Download Page*


If things weren't already confusing enough, new V2.02a "test" firmware installers for the D2v and AVM 50v have just appeared on Anthem's password protected download page.


The prior V2.02 firmware installers are also still on there at the moment.


There are no release notes yet for either V2.02 or V2.02a. But at a guess, V2.02a may be an attempt to fix the problem reported re attempting to make Deep Color connections work using a PS3 and a Pioneer plasma.


As always, "test" software should only be used by those instructed to do so by Anthem tech support, or by other folks who have a strong tolerance for potentially unpleasant surprises.

--Bob


----------



## Need4spdnb

Got pricing from my local dealer today, Sounds Deluxe, and the pricing is as follows: D2V is $7500, AVM50V is $5500 US dollars.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Need4spdnb* /forum/post/15697341
> 
> 
> Got pricing from my local dealer today, Sounds Deluxe, and the pricing is as follows: D2V is $7500, AVM50V is $5500 US dollars.



Looks like Anthem has got the info out to all its US dealers then.


Any word from your dealer on an expected price increase in the next few weeks?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC V2.0.1 has been "official" for a while now, so I'm a bit surprised there aren't more early adopter posts here.


However it appears safe to conclude that nobody so far has found it working so poorly for them that they went back to their ARC V1.2.5 setup. Right?


I'd also like to hear from folks who initially used an older ARC V1.2.5 Measurement as the basis for Calculation in ARC V2.0.1, and then also did a new Measurement with V2.0.1. Anyone care to comment on whether re-Measuring made things better compared to just doing a new Calculation with an old Measurement?


[In my case I had been using a "test" ARC V1.2.13 Measurement before I did my new ARC V2.0.1 Measurement, so I don't think that is a good basis for comparison.]

--Bob


----------



## jayray

My experience with new 2.01 measurement vs. 1.25 is as follows:

1. High frequency is smoother to 20K

2. LFE is tighter to lower freq

My graphs are smoother and the overall affect of this last measurement is the best yet and I've tried just about every version of ARC since v1.0

John


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15697882
> 
> 
> My experience with new 2.01 measurement vs. 1.25 is as follows:
> 
> 1. High frequency is smoother to 20K
> 
> 2. LFE is tighter to lower freq
> 
> My graphs are smoother and the overall affect of this last measurement is the best yet and I've tried just about every version of ARC since v1.0
> 
> John



Similar experience to jayray on my D2.

Subtle differences but better still...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just to be clear, are you comparing V1.2.5 Measurements Calculated also using V1.2.5 against your new, from scratch, V2.0.1 results, or are you comparing the from scratch V2.0.1 results against V1.2.5 Measurements Calculated using V2.0.1?


I'm trying to get a handle on whether folks are finding it worthwhile to do a new Measurement pass for V2.0.1 as opposed to just re-Calculating using prior V1.2.5 Measurements.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Yes I am using 1.25 measurements and calculations redone with 2.01 and new measurements with 2.01. Is this what wanted Bob? I would do a new measurement.

John


----------



## jayray

Tried some things today to improve ps3 hdmi handshake. I started in this order.

1. Turn on projector first

2. PS3 on next

3. Anthem last

Much faster

John


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15697576
> 
> 
> ARC V2.0.1 has been "official" for a while now, so I'm a bit surprised there aren't more early adopter posts here.
> 
> 
> However it appears safe to conclude that nobody so far has found it working so poorly for them that they went back to their ARC V1.2.5 setup. Right?
> 
> 
> I'd also like to hear from folks who initially used an older ARC V1.2.5 Measurement as the basis for Calculation in ARC V2.0.1, and then also did a new Measurement with V2.0.1. Anyone care to comment on whether re-Measuring made things better compared to just doing a new Calculation with an old Measurement?
> 
> 
> [In my case I had been using a "test" ARC V1.2.13 Measurement before I did my new ARC V2.0.1 Measurement, so I don't think that is a good basis for comparison.]
> 
> --Bob



I bit the bullet yesterday and installed 2.0.1. I have a D1-HD running 1.33. I first made sure i had a save in user settings. I made new measurements, and uploaded. I then only got sound from my sub's. Tried changing inputs, checking other settings etc. I then saved to installer settings and restored user setting and got sound. loading back the installed settings and i would get a very quick sound through all speakers but then they would all cut out but the subs. I can restore the user setting and get sound again. I haven't done extensive listening but i think does does sound better mostly in the low end. I don't know exactly what settings I'm listening too with the upload from ARC then a restore of the 1.2.5 "settings". i know that all the ARC stuff is not saved in these settings. I figured I'd try a reupload to see if that fixes things. I had a laptop running XP with a real serial port used for the measurements/ upload and have never had a problem with the many firmware uploads or about 3 or 4 ARC uploads before this. I'm a bit hesitant to do much more experimenting until after the super bowl.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15698097
> 
> 
> Yes I am using 1.25 measurements and calculations redone with 2.01 and new measurements with 2.01. Is this what wanted Bob? I would do a new measurement.
> 
> John



No, that seems to cover it. Thanks!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15698135
> 
> 
> Tried some things today to improve ps3 hdmi handshake. I started in this order.
> 
> 1. Turn on projector first
> 
> 2. PS3 on next
> 
> 3. Anthem last
> 
> Much faster
> 
> John



It's been a while since we talked about this, but some displays/projectors take forever before they are ready to respond properly to the incoming HDMI handshake. But doing things in this order you give the projector more time to get ready since it won't see the initiation of the handshake until after the Anthem powers up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/15698289
> 
> 
> I bit the bullet yesterday and installed 2.0.1. I have a D1-HD running 1.33. I first made sure i had a save in user settings. I made new measurements, and uploaded. I then only got sound from my sub's. Tried changing inputs, checking other settings etc. I then saved to installer settings and restored user setting and got sound. loading back the installed settings and i would get a very quick sound through all speakers but then they would all cut out but the subs. I can restore the user setting and get sound again. I haven't done extensive listening but i think does does sound better mostly in the low end. I don't know exactly what settings I'm listening too with the upload from ARC then a restore of the 1.2.5 "settings". i know that all the ARC stuff is not saved in these settings. I figured I'd try a reupload to see if that fixes things. I had a laptop running XP with a real serial port used for the measurements/ upload and have never had a problem with the many firmware uploads or about 3 or 4 ARC uploads before this. I'm a bit hesitant to do much more experimenting until after the super bowl.



Yes, I would suggest a re-Upload. Then go into Setup > Speaker Configuration and make sure the speakers you expect to see turned on are actually turned on in both Movie and Music configurations.


Doing a V2.0.1 Upload and then a Reload of Saved User Settings means you are using the room correction parameters from V2.0.1 but the crossover and speaker volume trim settings from V1.2.5. Odds are they are not far off, but they are also not perfect.

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645

Yes all the speakers were on. The surronds were set to dipole rather than direct but wasn't anything as you might expect.


----------



## spiderv6

Is anyone using a Popcorn hour with their D2?


I currently use my PS3 to play downloaded TV programs and that works very well indeed.


What the PS3 doesn't do though is play any HD content (e.g., MKV files) and it wont play any ripped DVDs (and I would love to rip all my DVDs onto my server for easy access).


It seems that the popcorn hour will do all of that.


So, this seems to be a neat piece of kit that I can plug into an HDMI input on my D2v and play any and all content streaming from my server.


Sounds perfect......is it?


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15699838
> 
> 
> Is anyone using a Popcorn hour with their D2?
> 
> 
> I currently use my PS3 to play downloaded TV programs and that works very well indeed.
> 
> 
> What the PS3 doesn't do though is play any HD content (e.g., MKV files) and it wont play any ripped DVDs (and I would love to rip all my DVDs onto my server for easy access).
> 
> 
> It seems that the popcorn hour will do all of that.
> 
> 
> So, this seems to be a neat piece of kit that I can plug into an HDMI input on my D2v and play any and all content streaming from my server.
> 
> 
> Sounds perfect......is it?



We use the Popcorn Hour A-110... Have bought it in prep for using it with the AVM50v and the rest of the home theatre gadgets that will be going up in a few weeks. It's currently used with one of our LG tvs and works great!


It plays all HD files, rips, etc...


Looking forward to using it with the Anthem


----------



## zr123

Any news on whether the AVM 50v has started to ship?


Thanks!


----------



## Ian_Currie

What is Popcorn Hour?


----------



## bluemark81

I'm about to run ARC and I forget if the Anthen is supposed to be on or off when I start it. Does the ARC software turn it on, or should I have it on when I start?


Thanks,


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15700385
> 
> 
> We use the Popcorn Hour A-110... Have bought it in prep for using it with the AVM50v and the rest of the home theatre gadgets that will be going up in a few weeks. It's currently used with one of our LG tvs and works great!
> 
> 
> It plays all HD files, rips, etc...
> 
> 
> Looking forward to using it with the Anthem



Actually, while it's a lot better than VMC, it hardly plays "all" HD files, rips, etc. Last time I checked, it can't natively and/or reliably play (no matter what the spec says):


- AVC-HD files (from the newer hand-held HD camcorders)

- BluRay ISO's with full menu support

- Some Tivo HD files


Since XBMC plays all SD files 100% reliably, the only reason to get something else is for HD files. And HD files (for me) means my HD camcorder, full BluRay rips, and Tivo HD files.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15701049
> 
> 
> I'm about to run ARC and I forget if the Anthen is supposed to be on or off when I start it. Does the ARC software turn it on, or should I have it on when I start?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



It can be off and ARC will turn it on.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ian_Currie* /forum/post/15700980
> 
> 
> What is Popcorn Hour?


*Google Tells All*


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15701131
> 
> 
> Actually, while it's a lot better than VMC, it hardly plays "all" HD files, rips, etc. Last time I checked, it can't natively and/or reliably play (no matter what the spec says):
> 
> 
> - AVC-HD files (from the newer hand-held HD camcorders)
> 
> - BluRay ISO's with full menu support
> 
> - Some Tivo HD files
> 
> 
> Since XBMC plays all SD files 100% reliably, the only reason to get something else is for HD files. And HD files (for me) means my HD camcorder, full BluRay rips, and Tivo HD files.



But PS3 will NOT play ripped DVDs (iso files) and I really want to get those all ripped and onto the server for easy instant access. For $200 this sounds like an amazing piece of kit......


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/15698954
> 
> 
> Yes all the speakers were on. The surronds were set to dipole rather than direct but wasn't anything as you might expect.



If you only get sound from your subs again after your new upload/reload of ARC2.0.1 and your saved settings, be sure to check your 'triggers' settings. If you are using triggers to turn on your amps and they are not set right, then the D2 will be sending signals to your amp, which may be in standby. Since most subs are powered by onboard amps they will produce the sound that is being sent to them by the D2. I speak from experience on this. It might be worth a check of the 'trigger' settings if the problem continues.

Tom


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15701488
> 
> 
> But PS3 will NOT play ripped DVDs (iso files) and I really want to get those all ripped and onto the server for easy instant access. For $200 this sounds like an amazing piece of kit......



I suppose it is a matter of opinion on the popcorn hour device and to be fair I have never seen it. But it seems to me if u are already using a pc to store movies why go and get a device to stream them.. I happen to like the vmc for this scenario and use mymovies on a touch screen monitor in my theater and connect that with my d2 and plays all hd content. That is just my 2 cents.


----------



## zr123

Any confirmation on weather the AVM 50v has started to ship?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15702255
> 
> 
> If you only get sound from your subs again after your new upload/reload of ARC2.0.1 and your saved settings, be sure to check your 'triggers' settings. If you are using triggers to turn on your amps and they are not set right, then the D2 will be sending signals to your amp, which may be in standby. Since most subs are powered by onboard amps they will produce the sound that is being sent to them by the D2. I speak from experience on this. It might be worth a check of the 'trigger' settings if the problem continues.
> 
> Tom



Excellent suggestion!









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15702835
> 
> 
> Any confirmation on weather the AVM 50v has started to ship?



We've seen a backorder report dated Jan 26, that said first AVM 50v Black shipments were scheduled for Jan 30, and first AVM 50v Silver shipments were scheduled for Feb 3.


We've had one poster who just ordered an AVM 50v in the past few days and was told by the dealer that Anthem stated it would ship on Feb 3. (Not known if this was a Black or Silver model).


So far we've not had our first post from anyone actually taking delivery of an AVM 50v, and I've not had independent confirmation from Nick, etc., at Anthem that any of them have actually left the factory yet.


---------------------------------------------------


As I've said, these units descend from the heavens on golden shafts of sunlight, weather permitting. So "weather" they ship or not is indeed the appropriate word.









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

An Italian distributor of Anthem products has an announcement out now on availability of the D2v and AVM 50v:

http://www.digitalvideoht.it/index.p...d=781&Itemid=2 

http://www.xfaudio.it/ 


Among other things, it lists suggested retail pricing in Euros:


D2v: Euro 8990

AVM 50v: Euro 6690


I believe Italy is also a "high voltage" country. If correct, that means "high voltage" D2v and AVM 50v models are now available.


They are also showing factory sale pricing on older Anthem units:

http://www.xfaudio.it/pdf/xfaudio_An...ory_Direct.pdf 


They also have an interesting collection of links to Anthem product reviews, albeit without any D2v or AVM 50v reviews at the moment:

http://www.xfaudio.it/prodotti_recensioni.php 


ETA: If I've done this correctly, Euro 8990 = US$11,573, and Euro 6690 = US$8,612. I don't know whether that pricing includes all taxes or not (unlike US sales tax, Value Added Tax is often built into pricing).

--Bob


----------



## BruiserG

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
ARC V2.0.1 has been "official" for a while now, so I'm a bit surprised there aren't more early adopter posts here.


However it appears safe to conclude that nobody so far has found it working so poorly for them that they went back to their ARC V1.2.5 setup. Right?


I'd also like to hear from folks who initially used an older ARC V1.2.5 Measurement as the basis for Calculation in ARC V2.0.1, and then also did a new Measurement with V2.0.1. Anyone care to comment on whether re-Measuring made things better compared to just doing a new Calculation with an old Measurement?


[In my case I had been using a "test" ARC V1.2.13 Measurement before I did my new ARC V2.0.1 Measurement, so I don't think that is a good basis for comparison.]

--Bob


Hi Bob,


Here are my latest ARC measurements for your consideration. Both were re-calculated in 2.0.1, but the first used my measurements from 1.2.5 (ARC125), the second, obviously, were measured with 2.0.1 (ARC201). The weird thing is, you'll notice the difference in target volumes between the two - I didn't touch my noise level setting. In my case, it is actually at 75 DB on my SPL meter at 0, so I left it. My uploaded speaker levels were all bumped up about 4db higher with the new measure, with the exception of my SW, which remained about the same (lowered by 1 db, actually). In both cases I used the suggested room gain and went the full 20khz range.


Overall, the sound isn't VASTLY improved. It went from amazing to this is REALLY amazing. Where I found the most distinct audible differences were in the higher frequencies. The 1.2.5 measurement came out slightly more "tinny" and crisp. With 2.0.1 the highs are much smoother and more natural sounding throughout the range - an improvement. In fact, smoother and more natural is the best description to use across the entire frequency range for the new measure, albeit ever-so-slight. It just came out more in the highs.


Let me know what you think of the graphs.

 

ARC125.doc 262.5k . file

 

ARC201.doc 265.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BruiserG* /forum/post/15705465
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Here are my latest ARC measurements for your consideration. Both were re-calculated in 2.0.1, but the first used my measurements from 1.2.5 (ARC125), the second, obviously, were measured with 2.0.1 (ARC201). The weird thing is, you'll notice the difference in target volumes between the two - I didn't touch my noise level setting. In my case, it is actually at 75 DB on my SPL meter at 0, so I left it. My uploaded speaker levels were all bumped up about 4db higher with the new measure, with the exception of my SW, which remained about the same (lowered by 1 db, actually). In both cases I used the suggested room gain and went the full 20khz range.
> 
> 
> Overall, the sound isn't VASTLY improved. It went from amazing to this is REALLY amazing. Where I found the most distinct audible differences were in the higher frequencies. The 1.2.5 measurement came out slightly more "tinny" and crisp. With 2.0.1 the highs are much smoother and more natural sounding throughout the range - an improvement. In fact, smoother and more natural is the best description to use across the entire frequency range for the new measure, albeit ever-so-slight. It just came out more in the highs.
> 
> 
> Let me know what you think of the graphs.



Yeah the basic volume level ARC targeted in the new Measurement is a bit puzzling, but I wouldn't draw much of a conclusion from that.


I also notice that the new Measurement resulted in a higher Room Gain finding. This is interesting because up to now I think everyone has been reporting that ARC V2.0.1 was finding lower Room Gain.


A question: When you used the V1.2.5 Measurement did you do an Auto Detect in ARC V2.0.1 prior the the Calculation to let ARC V2.0.1 reevaluate the choice of Targets? Or did you have ARC V2.0.1 do its Calculation using the Targets previously set up by ARC V1.2.5?


----------------------------------------------


You sub looks good down to about 30Hz which is not bad at all. There are subs that go deeper, but 30Hz is not uncommon for good home theater subs.


The Room Gain, even the larger one found by the V2.0.1 Measurement, is a bit lower than others have been reporting, but that may just be the nature of your room. If you want to try "forcing" a larger value, I'd suggest giving 2.5dB a try. Trust your ears and keep the result that sounds better to you.


You've got some residual errors at lower frequencies -- particularly in the LF -- that might be due to pushing ARC too hard to do the high frequency corrections. You might want to try a set of calculations between 15KHz and 20KHz and see if that reveals a better compromise result.


Your Surrounds, and to a lesser degree your Center, have a fairly steep dip at 12KHz that is deeper than ARC will try to fully correct (to keep from stressing the amps and speakers). That might respond to some adjustment in the pointing of those speakers. The residual error is not that bad, but if you can improve the Measured curves by adjusting those speakers you'll get correction closer to the Target line AND you might be able to push ARC up to 20KHz without getting the wiggles at lower frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## zr123

Our dealer just informed us that he believes the AVM 50v unit that we had ordered shipped on Friday. Apparently Anthem had told him on Thursday that it would be going out on Friday.


We won't know till sometime next week.


Woo hooo!


----------



## Max Spivak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15692632
> 
> 
> 
> That is why I won't be upgrading to the D2v. The
> 
> D2 does everything I need today including 7.1.



Mmm... D2 can only take 5.1 LPCM, it can't grok 7.1. You don't get to hear 8 discrete channels.


D2v can take either bitstream or 7.1 LPCM.


Max


----------



## Forester

Hello!


Are there any informations if the D2v2/AVM50v2 accept/handle a SACD-DSD-signal via HDMI send from players like the Oppo 980?


Greets


Forester


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Spivak* /forum/post/15707189
> 
> 
> Mmm... D2 can only take 5.1 LPCM, it can't grok 7.1. You don't get to hear 8 discrete channels.
> 
> 
> D2v can take either bitstream or 7.1 LPCM.
> 
> 
> Max



Yes I know - but the D2 does a great job of converting 5.1

to 7.1 and the number of 7.1 Movies I can count on one

hand. That is not enough to make me spend ANOTHER $2K

for an upgrade.


According to some PROFESSIONAL Audio people here on this

forum - the say the 5.1 to 7.1 conversion of the D2 is so good

95% of the people could not tell the difference between 5.1 to

7.1 converted versus 7.1 direct.


I'm probably in that 95% group. If I can NOT hear or see the

difference.


WHY PAY FOR IT?


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15707539
> 
> 
> Yes I know - but the D2 does a great job of converting 5.1
> 
> to 7.1 and the number of 7.1 Movies I can count on one
> 
> hand. That is not enough to make me spend ANOTHER $2K
> 
> for an upgrade.
> 
> 
> According to some PROFESSIONAL Audio people here on this
> 
> forum - the say the 5.1 to 7.1 conversion of the D2 is so good
> 
> 95% of the people could not tell the difference between 5.1 to
> 
> 7.1 converted versus 7.1 direct.
> 
> 
> I'm probably in that 95% group. If I can NOT hear or see the
> 
> difference.
> 
> 
> WHY PAY FOR IT?



Agreed totally on your points! With arc in the mix it sounds awesome regardless!!


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15707539
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I know - but the D2 does a great job of converting 5.1
> 
> to 7.1 and the number of 7.1 Movies I can count on one
> 
> hand. That is not enough to make me spend ANOTHER $2K
> 
> for an upgrade.
> 
> 
> According to some PROFESSIONAL Audio people here on this
> 
> forum - the say the 5.1 to 7.1 conversion of the D2 is so good
> 
> 95% of the people could not tell the difference between 5.1 to
> 
> 7.1 converted versus 7.1 direct.
> 
> 
> I'm probably in that 95% group. If I can NOT hear or see the
> 
> difference.
> 
> 
> WHY PAY FOR IT?



There's a lot more to the D2v2 than just 7.1 over HDMI. You know better.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15707698
> 
> 
> There's a lot more to the D2v2 than just 7.1 over HDMI. You know better.



If I didn't have a D2 - I would certainly be buying a D2v2.


----------



## BruiserG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15705693
> 
> 
> Yeah the basic volume level ARC targeted in the new Measurement is a bit puzzling, but I wouldn't draw much of a conclusion from that.
> 
> 
> I also notice that the new Measurement resulted in a higher Room Gain finding. This is interesting because up to now I think everyone has been reporting that ARC V2.0.1 was finding lower Room Gain.
> 
> 
> A question: When you used the V1.2.5 Measurement did you do an Auto Detect in ARC V2.0.1 prior the the Calculation to let ARC V2.0.1 reevaluate the choice of Targets? Or did you have ARC V2.0.1 do its Calculation using the Targets previously set up by ARC V1.2.5?
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> You sub looks good down to about 30Hz which is not bad at all. There are subs that go deeper, but 30Hz is not uncommon for good home theater subs.
> 
> 
> The Room Gain, even the larger one found by the V2.0.1 Measurement, is a bit lower than others have been reporting, but that may just be the nature of your room. If you want to try "forcing" a larger value, I'd suggest giving 2.5dB a try. Trust your ears and keep the result that sounds better to you.
> 
> 
> You've got some residual errors at lower frequencies -- particularly in the LF -- that might be due to pushing ARC too hard to do the high frequency corrections. You might want to try a set of calculations between 15KHz and 20KHz and see if that reveals a better compromise result.
> 
> 
> Your Surrounds, and to a lesser degree your Center, have a fairly steep dip at 12KHz that is deeper than ARC will try to fully correct (to keep from stressing the amps and speakers). That might respond to some adjustment in the pointing of those speakers. The residual error is not that bad, but if you can improve the Measured curves by adjusting those speakers you'll get correction closer to the Target line AND you might be able to push ARC up to 20KHz without getting the wiggles at lower frequencies.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks for the suggestions. I'll continue to tweak. As for your question - Yes, I did do an auto detect in 2.0.1 for my 1.2.5 measures. The original 1.2.5 calculations actually had the room gain closer to the 1.5xxx number that 2.0.1 came up with with its own measurement.


----------



## Flugel

How does ARC work with a 5.1 system? This is what I will be running when my D2v finally arrives.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Forester* /forum/post/15707205
> 
> 
> Hello!
> 
> 
> Are there any informations if the D2v2/AVM50v2 accept/handle a SACD-DSD-signal via HDMI send from players like the Oppo 980?
> 
> 
> Greets
> 
> 
> Forester



It does not, as best we know now. It is certainly not mentioned in the new data sheets or owner's manuals. I don't believe any of the handful of current owners have actually tried it yet. I also don't know if the new hardware makes it possible for Anthem to add this as a future software upgrade (the older hardware could not do this).


So you need to set your Oppo player to do the conversion to HDMI LPCM output. The D2v and AVM 50v can accept up to 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM at up to 192KHz/24bit which is more than adequate to carry all the information present in the original SACD DSD stream.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BruiserG* /forum/post/15708382
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. I'll continue to tweak. As for your question - Yes, I did do an auto detect in 2.0.1 for my 1.2.5 measures. The original 1.2.5 calculations actually had the room gain closer to the 1.5xxx number that 2.0.1 came up with with its own measurement.



Interesting! Thanks for the report. If you do end up using any of the changes I suggested, go ahead and post the new charts so everyone can see the difference.


Folks, I believe we now have three reports suggesting that it is better to do a new Measurement with ARC V2.0.1 rather than just doing a re-Calculation using older V1.2.5 Measurements (with or without the additional step of doing an Auto Detect in the Targets window).


Now this is hardly a statistically significant sample, and may be biased by owner expectations or simply that owners are getting better at taking a careful set of Measurements, but either way, I'll still continue to recommend that folks plan some time to do a new set of Measurements at some point after switching to the new ARC V2.0.1.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Flugel* /forum/post/15708501
> 
> 
> How does ARC work with a 5.1 system? This is what I will be running when my D2v finally arrives.



ARC is the bee's knees with a 5.1 system. I'd go so far as to say it is the cat's pajamas.


Seriously, it's amazing. I use a 5.1 system myself and I can't imagine ever going back to my pre-ARC audio setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15707176
> 
> 
> Our dealer just informed us that he believes the AVM 50v unit that we had ordered shipped on Friday. Apparently Anthem had told him on Thursday that it would be going out on Friday.
> 
> 
> We won't know till sometime next week.
> 
> 
> Woo hooo!



There's still a cookie available for the first person to power up a new AVM 50v and report which firmware comes factory installed in it!


There's also still a cookie for the first person to confirm that ARC V2.0.1 (or later) is bundled with a new D2V or AVM 50v.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15704158
> 
> 
> An Italian distributor of Anthem products has an announcement out now on availability of the D2v and AVM 50v........
> 
> 
> ETA: If I've done this correctly, Euro 8990 = US$11,573, and Euro 6690 = US$8,612. I don't know whether that pricing includes all taxes or not (unlike US sales tax, Value Added Tax is often built into pricing).
> 
> --Bob



OUCH!! If the price is going to be just as high in the Far East, I shall have to end my retirement and go back to work in order to afford a D2v.










Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yeah, these numbers surprised me too. We need more price reports from other countries.

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52

Sometimes I feel like a poor relation, especially now that the title of this thread now includes pretty much everything except the D1.


The D1 does use ARC and some of us are still interested in perhaps upgrading when the options and prices come out, so come on and give us D1 users a little recognition!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15709316
> 
> 
> Sometimes I feel like a poor relation, especially now that the title of this thread now includes pretty much everything except the D1.
> 
> 
> The D1 does use ARC and some of us are still interested in perhaps upgrading when the options and prices come out, so come on and give us D1 users a little recognition!



What's a D1?

























On a more serious note, do any of my fellow Anthem owners have any recommendations for some headphones? Nothing too terribly exotic (read expensive). I might go as high as $700.00. This means the new Sennheiser 800 (at $1400) is out.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Then there are the AVM 40/ARC users. I'm not sure they'll even HAVE an upgrade path.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/15709393
> 
> 
> On a more serious note, do any of my fellow Anthem owners have any recommendations for some headphones? Nothing too terribly exotic (read expensive). I might go as high as $700.00. This means the new Sennheiser 800 (at $1400) is out.



I like the reviews and recommendations you will find here:

http://www.headphone.com/ 


I've been using a pair of Sennheiser HD650 I got from them some years ago and I found their description of them to be spot on. They cover a wide range of budgets and product lines (they resell headphones and cables, and make and sell headphone amps).

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15702255
> 
> 
> If you only get sound from your subs again after your new upload/reload of ARC2.0.1 and your saved settings, be sure to check your 'triggers' settings. If you are using triggers to turn on your amps and they are not set right, then the D2 will be sending signals to your amp, which may be in standby. Since most subs are powered by onboard amps they will produce the sound that is being sent to them by the D2. I speak from experience on this. It might be worth a check of the 'trigger' settings if the problem continues.
> 
> Tom



Thanks Tom. the triggers were disabled. Saved me from re uploading again.


----------



## jayray

Does the 24/192 upsampling make a diff for movies. I understand it makes a big diff for music but had read this will not affect movie sound to the same extent. I am curious because I may be selling my AVM50 and upgrade to D2V. Given the price difference, I want to make sure that for what I use my system 90% of the time, the sound will improve.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15710119
> 
> 
> Does the 24/192 upsampling make a diff for movies. I understand it makes a big diff for music but had read this will not affect movie sound to the same extent. I am curious because I may be selling my AVM50 and upgrade to D2V. Given the price difference, I want to make sure that for what I use my system 90% of the time, the sound will improve.
> 
> John



It's hard to say because there is no way to compare it that separates out the other differences in the two audio circuits.


The upsampling all by itself probably has a real but subtle effect -- hearing it probably depends on the quality of the content (some movie tracks are very good indeed), the quality of the rest of your equipment, and your own critical listening faculties. Adding ARC to the setup, for example, probably produces much more noticeable improvement.


Here's a post I made a while ago that links to some earlier discussions on upsampling:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...g#post15546653 


--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I have Studio 100 V4 F/L, CC-690 centre and Servo 15 sub. Amps are Anthem A5 and A2. The equipment should do the job. I will have ARC and have some very good content. Sounds like a longer term investment than most other receivers I've owned. Have gotten a good deal from my dealer for the D2V and it may be an offer too good to refuse. Thanks for the link.

John


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15709479
> 
> 
> I like the reviews and recommendations you will find here:
> 
> http://www.headphone.com/
> 
> 
> I've been using a pair of Sennheiser HD650 I got from them some years ago and I found their description of them to be spot on. They cover a wide range of budgets and product lines (they resell headphones and cables, and make and sell headphone amps).
> 
> --Bob



Thanks a lot Bob. The HD650's were already on my short list, so hearing confirmation from you certainly helps strengthen their placement.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15709053
> 
> 
> OUCH!! If the price is going to be just as high in the Far East, I shall have to end my retirement and go back to work in order to afford a D2v.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



I took a little more look around and although I didn't find any other distributors listing D2v or AVM50v pricing I did find the distributors for Ireland and for Spain with list prices for the D2.


Ireland: D2 = Euro 10,285

Spain: D2 = Euro 10,950


So either the D2v is seeing a pretty significant price drop at launch in Europe or that Euro $8990 price from Italy is actually a bargain!


(Euro 10,950 is approx. US$14,000. Ouch indeed!)

--Bob


----------



## danielo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15713609
> 
> 
> I took a little more look around and although I didn't find any other distributors listing D2v or AVM50v pricing I did find the distributors for Ireland and for Spain with list prices for the D2.
> 
> 
> Ireland: D2 = Euro 10,285
> 
> Spain: D2 = Euro 10,950
> 
> 
> So either the D2v is seeing a pretty significant price drop at launch in Europe or that Euro $8990 price from Italy is actually a bargain!
> 
> 
> (Euro 10,950 is approx. US$14,000. Ouch indeed!)
> 
> --Bob



I wonder how much prices will go up for other brands soon. The denon avp was 6999 euro at the time i got it about $11k if you get it now about $9k (lower $) (all list prices, following board rules). Most of the toys i got in 2008 already went up in price in europe but my gut tells me the D2 price is a hint of things to come. Good luck with getting a good price.


Daniel.


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15709053
> 
> 
> OUCH!! If the price is going to be just as high in the Far East, I shall have to end my retirement and go back to work in order to afford a D2v.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



Why don't you look for one made for the US. You can use a power converter ( I checked with Anthem on this a month ago) they said the 50hz 60hz difference would not matter.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15709053
> 
> 
> OUCH!! If the price is going to be just as high in the Far East, I shall have to end my retirement and go back to work in order to afford a D2v.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



I am not surprise by this the european market is just silly. Before buying the D2 I used a DVDO VP50 for 8 months and sell it to a guy in europe for the price I originally paid for the unit. Even with shipping and custom cost the guy was still saving enough to be worthed.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/15709393
> 
> 
> What's a D1?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a more serious note, do any of my fellow Anthem owners have any recommendations for some headphones? Nothing too terribly exotic (read expensive). I might go as high as $700.00. This means the new Sennheiser 800 (at $1400) is out.



I am using a pair of Grado RS2 and really like it.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15701131
> 
> 
> Actually, while it's a lot better than VMC, it hardly plays "all" HD files, rips, etc. Last time I checked, it can't natively and/or reliably play (no matter what the spec says):
> 
> 
> - AVC-HD files (from the newer hand-held HD camcorders)
> 
> - BluRay ISO's with full menu support
> 
> - Some Tivo HD files
> 
> 
> Since XBMC plays all SD files 100% reliably, the only reason to get something else is for HD files. And HD files (for me) means my HD camcorder, full BluRay rips, and Tivo HD files.



Exactly and if I remember flac support is limited to 48Khz.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15695809
> 
> 
> BTW, I'm kidding I wouldn't sell or give up my precious coupon! I have it put away in a very safe place.



The new type color photocopier are really good at reproducing coupon.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15714948
> 
> 
> I am using a pair of Grado RS2 and really like it.



Thanks for another headphone recommendation.


Another question for you D2 headphone users: are you going straight into the D2, or are you using an external headphone amp to drive them?


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15708835
> 
> 
> There's still a cookie available for the first person to power up a new AVM 50v and report which firmware comes factory installed in it!
> 
> 
> There's also still a cookie for the first person to confirm that ARC V2.0.1 (or later) is bundled with a new D2V or AVM 50v.
> 
> --Bob



OK I got my D2v up and running all the setup info seemed to load without a hitch. It did come with ARC 2.0.1 and Software version 2.00. I still have few things to check. I am going to rerun ARC. I am also wondering if I should upgrade to 2.02.


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/15715687
> 
> 
> Thanks for another headphone recommendation.
> 
> 
> Another question for you D2 headphone users: are you going straight into the D2, or are you using an external headphone amp to drive them?



Straight into the jack with some old sennheiser HD560's.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15715744
> 
> 
> OK I got my D2v up and running all the setup info seemed to load without a hitch. *It did come with ARC 2.0.1* and Software version 2.00. I still have few things to check. I am going to rerun ARC. I am also wondering if I should upgrade to 2.02.



Well then, have a cookie!


We still don't know for sure what's different in firmware V2.02 -- not to mention V2.02a. But since we know of at least one new D2v that shipped with V2.02 it appears safe to load at least that one. So far the only report we have is that V2.02 may fix a problem with audio dropouts when using HDMI LPCM from the PS3. This has not been confirmed. It is possible V2.02a may fix a reported problem with setting up "Deep Color" connections from the PS3, but that's just a guess and has not been confirmed yet.


When you say the setup info seemed to load, are you saying that you loaded saved setup files on your PC (from an older D2 unit) into the D2v and that seemed to work?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/15715687
> 
> 
> Another question for you D2 headphone users: are you going straight into the D2, or are you using an external headphone amp to drive them?



Straight into the D2's headphone jack.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike

New speakers (see photo) means new ARC runs (see attachment). I did find with my previous speakers (same tweeters) they actually sounded the best when ran at 5000 Hz, and not corrected to 10K or 20K. 20K correction made the speakers sound shrill.


I will try these with a slightly higher correction (currently the base 5K) to see how they sound, but they sound pretty great right now.
 

 

020209-MOVIE.pdf 479.6669921875k . file

 

020209-MUSIC.pdf 144.52734375k . file


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15713609
> 
> 
> I took a little more look around and although I didn't find any other distributors listing D2v or AVM50v pricing I did find the distributors for Ireland and for Spain with list prices for the D2.
> 
> 
> Ireland: D2 = Euro 10,285
> 
> Spain: D2 = Euro 10,950
> 
> 
> So either the D2v is seeing a pretty significant price drop at launch in Europe or that Euro $8990 price from Italy is actually a bargain!
> 
> 
> (Euro 10,950 is approx. US$14,000. Ouch indeed!)
> 
> --Bob



Well, the D2 here in Singapore was going for just under $7k pre ARC when I acquired mine.


----------



## jayray

Well I have bitten the bullet and ordered a D2V. That's the good news. The bad is anything ordered now has at least a 3 week wait. Everything that is in the line for the next 3 weeks is spoken for. This could be a long wait









John


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/15714783
> 
> 
> Why don't you look for one made for the US. You can use a power converter ( I checked with Anthem on this a month ago) they said the 50hz 60hz difference would not matter.



Guess I could, but there's the question of warranty. Should there be a problem, the local agents will not honor it.


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15716331
> 
> 
> Well then, have a cookie!
> 
> 
> We still don't know for sure what's different in firmware V2.02 -- not to mention V2.02a. But since we know of at least one new D2v that shipped with V2.02 it appears safe to load at least that one. So far the only report we have is that V2.02 may fix a problem with audio dropouts when using HDMI LPCM from the PS3. This has not been confirmed. It is possible V2.02a may fix a reported problem with setting up "Deep Color" connections from the PS3, but that's just a guess and has not been confirmed yet.
> 
> 
> When you say the setup info seemed to load, are you saying that you loaded saved setup files on your PC (from an older D2 unit) into the D2v and that seemed to work?
> 
> --Bob



Well after about 5 hours everything works perfectly. I installed v2.02 and all my settings saved from my D2 to my computer loaded perfectly. I also remeasured using ARC 2.01. I have to say both audio and video have improved noticeably. I think the video improved partially because I was able to eliminate a HDMI 1 X 2 splitter, one goes to Sony 60A3000 and one to my Sony Pearl PJ. The ARC 2.01 is awesome. I am a very happy camper.










So who wants a great deal on a D2 with ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15716533
> 
> 
> New speakers (see photo) means new ARC runs (see attachment). I did find with my previous speakers (same tweeters) they actually sounded the best when ran at 5000 Hz, and not corrected to 10K or 20K. 20K correction made the speakers sound shrill.
> 
> 
> I will try these with a slightly higher correction (currently the base 5K) to see how they sound, but they sound pretty great right now.



These look good.


I take it you are using ARC V2.0.1 now, right? If your previous tries at higher Max EQ Frequency targets were with ARC V1.2.5, then you should definitely try it again now with V2.0.1.


But not everyone will get the best results with a higher frequency solution, even though the curves look better. That's because speaker directionality at the highest frequencies is giving ARC bad data to work with (ARC hears directionality and thinks it is a room response issue). So yes, trust your ears.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15717336
> 
> 
> Well after about 5 hours everything works perfectly. I installed v2.02 and all my settings saved from my D2 to my computer loaded perfectly. I also remeasured using ARC 2.01. I have to say both audio and video have improved noticeably. I think the video improved partially because I was able to eliminate a HDMI 1 X 2 splitter, one goes to Sony 60A3000 and one to my Sony Pearl PJ. The ARC 2.01 is awesome. I am a very happy camper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So who wants a great deal on a D2?



That means a set of these guys must be heading your way!











--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15717135
> 
> 
> Well, the D2 here in Singapore was going for just under $7k pre ARC when I acquired mine.



I take it thats US$7,000 = SGD$10,598, rather than SGD$7,000 = US$4,624 right?

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15717561
> 
> 
> I take it thats US$7,000 = SGD$10,598, rather than SGD$7,000 = US$4,624 right?
> 
> --Bob



That's right, Bob. However, the US$ was stronger then.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*More Cookies!*


Another batch of cookies is now available. We need reports that the expected new features of the D2v and AVM 50v are actually working.


This would include bitstream audio (i.e, decoding in the Anthem) of Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA, HDMI LPCM 7.1 channel input, HDMI LPCM input at 192KHz (or anything above 96KHz), simultaneous output from the two HDMI outs, and Deep Color in or out. [We've already had one report of failure for Deep Color using a PS3 and a Pioneer plasma, but we could use more people checking this.]


ETA: This will be much harder to quantify but we also need reports on the video processing from the new VXP chip -- improved noise reduction for example. And de-interlacing support for additional field repetition cadences.


ETA 2: Another video item to try, although we don't have any definitive word from Anthem that this is supposed to be working now, would be frame rate conversion of film based content. I.e., 480i/60 or 1080i/60 input to 1080p/24 output for film based source content. The key is to see if the new Anthems stay locked in on this stuff without stuttering. Or if there is an occasional stutter at a "bad edit", that they recover quickly rather than continuing to stutter. Of course this can only ever actually work if the source content was originally captured at film frame rate (24fps).

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15717375
> 
> 
> These look good.
> 
> 
> I take it you are using ARC V2.0.1 now, right? If your previous tries at higher Max EQ Frequency targets were with ARC V1.2.5, then you should definitely try it again now with V2.0.1.
> 
> 
> But not everyone will get the best results with a higher frequency solution, even though the curves look better. That's because speaker directionality at the highest frequencies is giving ARC bad data to work with (ARC hears directionality and thinks it is a room response issue). So yes, trust your ears.
> 
> --Bob



Previous try at the higher frequencies was with 2.01. Since I don't have to remeasure (that is the challenging step that I have to do late at night) and can just recalculate, it won't take me long to retry.


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15717336
> 
> 
> I installed v2.02 and all my settings saved from my D2 to my computer loaded perfectly.



QUESTION: Did you find that the Settings Backup editor saved and restored your Video Source Adjust menu settings in addition to the Setup menu settings?


Or did you have to use Live Video Settings Editor to save and restore the Video Source Adjust menu settings?

--Bob


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15716331
> 
> 
> Well then, have a cookie!
> 
> 
> We still don't know for sure what's different in firmware V2.02 -- not to mention V2.02a. But since we know of at least one new D2v that shipped with V2.02 it appears safe to load at least that one. So far the only report we have is that V2.02 may fix a problem with audio dropouts when using HDMI LPCM from the PS3. This has not been confirmed. It is possible V2.02a may fix a reported problem with setting up "Deep Color" connections from the PS3, but that's just a guess and has not been confirmed yet.
> 
> 
> When you say the setup info seemed to load, are you saying that you loaded saved setup files on your PC (from an older D2 unit) into the D2v and that seemed to work?
> 
> --Bob



I have confirmed that I can now watch entire blu-ray movies with Dolby TrueHD from PS3 with 2.02, which I could not do with 2.00.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/15715687
> 
> 
> Thanks for another headphone recommendation.
> 
> 
> Another question for you D2 headphone users: are you going straight into the D2, or are you using an external headphone amp to drive them?



Both.


I am also using a Tube headphone amp from Antique sound lab.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15718280
> 
> 
> I have confirmed that I can now watch entire blu-ray movies with Dolby TrueHD from PS3 with 2.02, which I could not do with 2.00.



I start to get jealous!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15718280
> 
> 
> I have confirmed that I can now watch entire blu-ray movies with Dolby TrueHD from PS3 with 2.02, which I could not do with 2.00.



Great! That's using HDMI LPCM from the PS3 of course since it doesn't bitstream TrueHD. So we know that V2.02 of the firmware fixed at least the HDMI LPCM audio dropout bug.


Any progress on your "Deep Color" problem?

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/15715687
> 
> 
> Thanks for another headphone recommendation.
> 
> 
> Another question for you D2 headphone users: are you going straight into the D2, or are you using an external headphone amp to drive them?



Straight into jack with AKG K701's. Excellent sound.


----------



## bluemark81

I see that some with ARC 2.00 had Dolby True HD issues. Has anyone with 2.01 experienced any issues with it? What are they? I haven't yet detected what mine is doing exactly, but something odd appears to be happening. Still have to try a few things to nail it down.


Also, can anyone point me to the instructions in using the Live Video Settings Editor?


What does the "connect" button do?

This may appear to be a silly question as it should be straight forward, but can someone identify the defference between "get", "save" and "load" in the settings area?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15720561
> 
> 
> I see that some with ARC 2.00 had Dolby True HD issues. Has anyone with 2.01 experienced any issues with it? What are they? I haven't yet detected what mine is doing exactly, but something odd appears to be happening. Still have to try a few things to nail it down.
> 
> 
> Also, can anyone point me to the instructions in using the Live Video Settings Editor?
> 
> 
> What does the "connect" button do?
> 
> This may appear to be a silly question as it should be straight forward, but can someone identify the defference between "get", "save" and "load" in the settings area?
> 
> 
> Thanks



There are no problems with ARC vs. Dolby TrueHD. The report was that *FIRMWARE* V2.00 (for the D2v or AVM 50v) experienced audio dropouts when HDMI LPCM was sent from the PS3 to the new D2v -- as when playing TrueHD since the PS3 decodes that to HDMI LPCM. This is fixed in firmware V2.02 for the D2v or AVM 50v (available from Anthem tech support).


-----------------------------------------------


Live Video Settings Editor (LVSE) is pretty straightforward. Changes you make in the settings are immediately reflected in the Video Source Adjust menu so that you can observe the effect of such changes "on the fly" while watching stuff -- thus "live" video settings editor.


You Connect to the Anthem to get ready to make such changes.


You can Get the current set of Video Source Adjust menu settings from the Anthem into LVSE -- to sync them up to start with or to account for changes you make directly using the remote control while LVSE is live.


You can Save the current set of settings displayed in LVSE to a file on the PC or Load settings from a PC file into LVSE (and thus into the Anthem).


The Custom Video Timings and Gamma Correction curve settings are the only parts that work differently. Changes you make while setting up the Custom Video Timings or Custom Gamma Correction curves do not take effect until you upload them into the Anthem. Once Uploaded, the Custom Video is available in the Setup > Video Output menu for displays that need unusual video configurations and the Custom Gamma Correction curves are available in the Video Source Adjust > Output menu for each source.

--Bob


----------



## CETA1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15716533
> 
> 
> New speakers (see photo) means new ARC runs (see attachment). I did find with my previous speakers (same tweeters) they actually sounded the best when ran at 5000 Hz, and not corrected to 10K or 20K. 20K correction made the speakers sound shrill.
> 
> 
> I will try these with a slightly higher correction (currently the base 5K) to see how they sound, but they sound pretty great right now.



Mike, so overall you are happy sonically with the Anthem and C4's? What is your amp again?


I have C1's and the Confidence Center so it would be good to hear your feedback. I will be using a Simaudio Titan Amp.


Are you running a combined HT/Stereo set-up?


I have an audition of the Anthem on Wednesday. They don't have the D2v for me to audition but they have the D2 so I am sure this will be a solid gauge for me.


Thanks...

Rick


----------



## CETA1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15717153
> 
> 
> Well I have bitten the bullet and ordered a D2V. That's the good news. The bad is anything ordered now has at least a 3 week wait. Everything that is in the line for the next 3 weeks is spoken for. This could be a long wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I was told the same thing today when I called to set up an audition for Wednesday. Three weeks or even a little longer.


Dealer quoted $8k today but many are stating $7500 intro. I would love to know which is correct before I walk in Wednesday. ?


This unit can also be had without the side handles, correct?


Congrats on your order by the way...


Rick


----------



## MDRbone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15709396
> 
> 
> Then there are the AVM 40/ARC users. I'm not sure they'll even HAVE an upgrade path.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, does the above imply that older AVM30s/40s will no longer be upgradeable at all, or that they simply won't be able to utilize later iterations of ARC? I have a three year old AVM30 that I've been waiting to upgrade with HDMI 1.3 and ARC. I emailed Anthem recently and was given no indication that my unit would not be upgradeable, only that 'the details were still being worked out for all upgrades'. Do you have some inside information on this?


Arieh


----------



## MDRbone

Let me further clarify the above. I AM interested in adding video processing as well.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15720738
> 
> 
> There are no problems with ARC vs. Dolby TrueHD. The report was that *FIRMWARE* V2.00 (for the D2v or AVM 50v) experienced audio dropouts when HDMI LPCM was sent from the PS3 to the new D2v -- as when playing TrueHD since the PS3 decodes that to HDMI LPCM. This is fixed in firmware V2.02 for the D2v or AVM 50v (available from Anthem tech support).
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Live Video Settings Editor (LVSE) is pretty straightforward. Changes you make in the settings are immediately reflected in the Video Source Adjust menu so that you can observe the effect of such changes "on the fly" while watching stuff -- thus "live" video settings editor.
> 
> 
> You Connect to the Anthem to get ready to make such changes.
> 
> 
> You can Get the current set of Video Source Adjust menu settings from the Anthem into LVSE -- to sync them up to start with or to account for changes you make directly using the remote control while LVSE is live.
> 
> 
> You can Save the current set of settings displayed in LVSE to a file on the PC or Load settings from a PC file into LVSE (and thus into the Anthem).
> 
> 
> The Custom Video Timings and Gamma Correction curve settings are the only parts that work differently. Changes you make while setting up the Custom Video Timings or Custom Gamma Correction curves do not take effect until you upload them into the Anthem. Once Uploaded, the Custom Video is available in the Setup > Video Output menu for displays that need unusual video configurations and the Custom Gamma Correction curves are available in the Video Source Adjust > Output menu for each source.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob:


So, when I'm in the LVSE software, so I'm clear and don't accidentally mess things up:


I first connect the communications cable between the Anthem and PC.


What does the window containing "select new baud rate" mean when I first open the software?

I press connect to connect to the Anthem;

I press "get" to get my current settings from the Anthem to LVSE;

I press "save" to save the settings to the PC; (I assume it will ask where to save the settings as opposed to immediately sending revised settings to the Anthem?)

I press "load" to send the saved settings back to the Anthem.


Upon getting the current settings from the Anthem, I can select a source in LVSE which, in turn, will tell the Anthem to switch to that particular input. Once there, I am assuming from your description that I can make adjustments through LVSE which will allow me to see the changes on the TV as I make them on the PC?


I would also like further detailed explanation on how to use the custom output resolution and custom gamma correction and how each of these effect the picture quality. Should I even monkey around with these?


Sorry for the questions, but like I say, I don't want tp make any stupid errors, but I can't find any instruction or explanations for using LVSE.




Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CETA1* /forum/post/15721280
> 
> 
> This unit can also be had without the side handles, correct?



Yes, but it is a special order item that might add a month to delivery depending upon where they are in their build cycle when you order it.


The other special order version is the one where the "wing" handles are swapped out for rack mount brackets.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MDRbone* /forum/post/15721323
> 
> 
> Bob, does the above imply that older AVM30s/40s will no longer be upgradeable at all, or that they simply won't be able to utilize later iterations of ARC? I have a three year old AVM30 that I've been waiting to upgrade with HDMI 1.3 and ARC. I emailed Anthem recently and was given no indication that my unit would not be upgradeable, only that 'the details were still being worked out for all upgrades'. Do you have some inside information on this?
> 
> 
> Arieh



The AVM 30 was not upgradable to add ARC using the new DSP board designed for the AVM 50. Apparently there was some incompatibility between that ARC upgrade DSP board and the AVM 30 mother board.


However, since the AVM 30 is upgradable to an AVM 50, I suspect they will offer an upgrade AVM 30 -> AVM 50v. It will likely be expensive.


As best I know the AVM 40 is not upgradable beyond the addition of the current ARC DSP board (as also used with the original AVM 50). But Anthem has surprised us in the past so we'll just have to see what they come up with.


All of this is guesswork until Anthem actually announces the upgrade programs.

--Bob


----------



## MDRbone

Thanks for the info. I expected the upgrade to be pricey, though to be honest, in this forum I'm not really sure what 'expensive' means.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15721357
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob:
> 
> 
> So, when I'm in the LVSE software, so I'm clear and don't accidentally mess things up:
> 
> 
> I first connect the communications cable between the Anthem and PC.
> 
> 
> What does the window containing "select new baud rate" mean when I first open the software?
> 
> I press connect to connect to the Anthem;
> 
> I press "get" to get my current settings from the Anthem to LVSE;
> 
> I press "save" to save the settings to the PC; (I assume it will ask where to save the settings as opposed to immediately sending revised settings to the Anthem?)
> 
> I press "load" to send the saved settings back to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Upon getting the current settings from the Anthem, I can select a source in LVSE which, in turn, will tell the Anthem to switch to that particular input. Once there, I am assuming from your description that I can make adjustments through LVSE which will allow me to see the changes on the TV as I make them on the PC?
> 
> 
> I would also like further detailed explanation on how to use the custom output resolution and custom gamma correction and how each of these effect the picture quality. Should I even monkey around with these?
> 
> 
> Sorry for the questions, but like I say, I don't want tp make any stupid errors, but I can't find any instruction or explanations for using LVSE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



You've got it. It's really a lot less complicated than it seems in a text explanation.


Start by saving your current settings in Saved User and/or Installer Settings and then just play with LVSE and you'll get the hang of it pretty fast. If you screw anything up, you can just Reload Saved User or Installer Settings and voila you are back where you were.


See the links collected in the first post of this thread for some discussion of how the custom video timing parameters work. There is also a PDF document in the downloaded folder containing LVSE which gives a diagram of the timing parameters.


If your display is working right with the standard Video Output choices then you have no need to play with these. NOTE: LVSE provides additional pre-defined Video Output choices beyond what are found in the Setup menu. You can use any of those as well without having to dig into the full custom stuff. It still becomes a "custom" video resolution choice in the Setup menu, but you don't actually have to figure out any of the numbers.


Primarily the custom stuff is for folks who are trying to get "native resolution" output to a display that has unusual timing needs such as some of the Pansonic 768p plasma displays.


Fiddling with the Custom Gamma Correction curves should not be attempted unless you have an optical sensor so that you can measure what your curves are doing to the imaging. Nobody is able to properly adjust Gamma Correction curves purely by eye. If you do have an optical sensor and want to get into this stuff, it would be wise to visit the Video Calibration forum here and do some study. Your optical sensor may have come with tutorial information as well.


Personally, I use the "exponential" Gamma Correction found in Video Source Adjust > Output. That works well enough for me that I've not found a need to use the custom curves. Calibration DVDs have "squint charts" that can be used to get a ballpark feel for the Gamma in your setup and the exponential correction provides a simple tool for adjusting that. The custom curves let you do the full on adjustment -- getting Gamma to track correctly over the entire response range -- either as a single "gray scale" curve or the even more sophisticated adjustment available by doing separate curves for R, G and B.


You probably already have a handle on setting Black levels and White levels. The Gamma curves adjust the response of the output between Black and White. For historical technical reasons, a non-linear response is necessary. CRT displays achieved this automatically due to the physics of how they produce light. Modern digital displays need to do extra work to achieve this same non-linear response, and some displays are deliberately designed to do this wrong for marketing reasons or cost savings. Gamma Correction allows you to counter that.


Proper Gamma Correction for digital displays will go a long way towards eliminating "banding" or "false contouring" in your video. The eye is also very sensitive to correct Gamma, and imaging with correct Gamma will look a lot more natural. But again, do not attempt to fiddle with the custom curves judging by eye alone. You need an optical sensor or your results will not be at all satisfactory. The eye can tell the difference between correct and incorrect Gamma, but won't give you a clue as to what has to be adjusted to fix incorrect settings.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CETA1* /forum/post/15721252
> 
> 
> Mike, so overall you are happy sonically with the Anthem and C4's? What is your amp again?
> 
> 
> I have C1's and the Confidence Center so it would be good to hear your feedback. I will be using a Simaudio Titan Amp.
> 
> 
> Are you running a combined HT/Stereo set-up?
> 
> 
> I have an audition of the Anthem on Wednesday. They don't have the D2v for me to audition but they have the D2 so I am sure this will be a solid gauge for me.
> 
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> Rick



Rick,


I have had limited time to critically listen to the C4's; however, prior to the C4's I had the C1's. I was very happy with the C1's and the combination was Anthem D2, Simaudio W5 (fronts) - Titan (Center, Sur, Rears). My sources are PS3, Arcam CD192, and a Denon 5900.


In my limited listening in my room the C4's are a step up from the C1's. I lose just a touch of the "monitor" majic, but gain resolution and overall impact. The C1's were the cat's meow for straight vocal music, but the C4's give me great vocal and a punch with the rock n roll and symphony music that the C1's had, just not as much!


For a while I had a Integra 9.8 with the C1's and it was not good at all on analog recordings. I added a Simaudio I-7 to the mix and received great analog, but the system was too complicated for the spouse. I then switched out the Integra/I-7 combo for the D2 and the W-5 and got all the HT performance with about 95% of the analog performace. I then added the ARC system to the mix and I would say that I receive 99% of what I got from the I-7. The I-7 was a little more revealing, but the Anthem/W-5 gave more authority and overall punch to the music.


Unless you really need the extra's that the D2v gives, you can get a used D2 or D1-HD (upgraded D1 to D2 equivalent) with ARC on Audiogon for probably $3500-$4200 right now, or you shold be able to swing a crazy deal for the demo D2 with a full warranty.


Mike


----------



## CETA1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15721701
> 
> 
> Rick,
> 
> 
> I have had limited time to critically listen to the C4's; however, prior to the C4's I had the C1's. I was very happy with the C1's and the combination was Anthem D2, Simaudio W5 (fronts) - Titan (Center, Sur, Rears). My sources are PS3, Arcam CD192, and a Denon 5900.
> 
> 
> In my limited listening in my room the C4's are a step up from the C1's. I lose just a touch of the "monitor" majic, but gain resolution and overall impact. The C1's were the cat's meow for straight vocal music, but the C4's give me great vocal and a punch with the rock n roll and symphony music that the C1's had, just not as much!
> 
> 
> For a while I had a Integra 9.8 with the C1's and it was not good at all on analog recordings. I added a Simaudio I-7 to the mix and received great analog, but the system was too complicated for the spouse. I then switched out the Integra/I-7 combo for the D2 and the W-5 and got all the HT performance with about 95% of the analog performace. I then added the ARC system to the mix and I would say that I receive 99% of what I got from the I-7. The I-7 was a little more revealing, but the Anthem/W-5 gave more authority and overall punch to the music.
> 
> 
> Unless you really need the extra's that the D2v gives, you can get a used D2 or D1-HD (upgraded D1 to D2 equivalent) with ARC on Audiogon for probably $3500-$4200 right now, or you shold be able to swing a crazy deal for the demo D2 with a full warranty.
> 
> 
> Mike



Fantastic info Mike. Thanks. I know the C4's are at a completely different level than the C1's. Looking forward to your review soon.


Your C1 set-up sounds like it was very similiar to mine if I do move forward with the D2v. This makes me feel good about my audition Wednesday.


I use Rega Saturn for CDP, the Simaudio Titan will be on its way in a couple of days and now to decide on a Processor. I use the Denon 3800 for blu-ray.


I am sure the D2 is a good deal now but I want a top-flight processor so I can hopefully be done with that and the Amp for a good while. Analog, decoding in the processor and bass management is also key to me.


Sorry to derail and back to Anthem but thanks for the info Mike.


Rick


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CETA1* /forum/post/15721280
> 
> 
> I was told the same thing today when I called to set up an audition for Wednesday. Three weeks or even a little longer.
> 
> 
> Dealer quoted $8k today but many are stating $7500 intro. I would love to know which is correct before I walk in Wednesday. ?
> 
> 
> This unit can also be had without the side handles, correct?
> 
> 
> Congrats on your order by the way...
> 
> 
> Rick



$8K is list price but $7.5K is the official intro pricing.


Of course nobody should actually be paying anything remotely close to those numbers. However, those are off-line discussions.


----------



## Milt99

I _finally_ installed Firmware 1.33 and ARC 2.0.1, upgrading from 1.31 and the original ARC release this weekend and WOW

I watched The Black Knight BD just prior to the upload and after doing re-measurements, etc., man what a difference.

The soundstage is not really a "stage" now but extends in a 360 degree arc(







) around the seats.

I then threw in the Dave Matthews BD, audio bliss +

I've gained way better integration between my subs and speakers, the word seamless comes to mind.

Plus the subs are tight, pack a punch but are not bloated and overdone.

Just as a reference, I'm using an A5 powering Axiom QS8 sides and Ellis Audio 1801 rears, a BAT VK6200 for the LCR Salk HT2s and pair of SVS Ultra subs.

I still need to do some more treatment and sub placement tweaking and I would not normally post such mundane news but I am astonished at the difference these software upgrades have made.

Now back to the D2v buzz.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Milt99 gets a batch of these guys!







































I hope this helps other folks who've been holding back realize that when we, in this thread, recommend folks move up to the new software we're not just being new version addicts. This software really is getting better in dramatic ways!


It's sad to think of the Anthem owners who haven't discovered this forum and thus haven't bothered trying the new software simply because, "Nothing's broken," in what they have now.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15718234
> 
> 
> QUESTION: Did you find that the Settings Backup editor saved and restored your Video Source Adjust menu settings in addition to the Setup menu settings?
> 
> 
> Or did you have to use Live Video Settings Editor to save and restore the Video Source Adjust menu settings?
> 
> --Bob



I restored both without checking in between.


I can also confirm that both HDMI's out work at the same time.


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15718393
> 
> 
> Great! That's using HDMI LPCM from the PS3 of course since it doesn't bitstream TrueHD. So we know that V2.02 of the firmware fixed at least the HDMI LPCM audio dropout bug.
> 
> 
> Any progress on your "Deep Color" problem?
> 
> --Bob



Nothing yet on the Deep Color. I also didn't get any response regarding Dolby Volume timeframe either.


And as my daughter wants me to put a smiley face on, here it is...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15722654
> 
> 
> I can also confirm that *both HDMI's out work at the same time*.



Thanks for the report. You get a cookie!

--Bob


----------



## BillW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CETA1* /forum/post/15721280
> 
> 
> I was told the same thing today when I called to set up an audition for Wednesday. Three weeks or even a little longer.
> 
> 
> Dealer quoted $8k today but many are stating $7500 intro. I would love to know which is correct before I walk in Wednesday. ?
> 
> 
> This unit can also be had without the side handles, correct?
> 
> 
> Congrats on your order by the way...
> 
> 
> Rick



17 1/4 units should be in stock Feb10, of course you have to allow for shipping and that includes customs.


Also, the rack mount version is not supposed to be special order although right now there is only one in stock







.


----------



## lalarsons

ARC 2.0.1 loaded this weekend. Speaker positions tweaked, primary listening position measured out, reference levels set, mic with boomstand for accurate postitioning.....within 30 minutes I could not believe this was the same audio system. Wide and deep soundstage revealing nuances I thought lost after unloading my original Audio Research front end.


Dark Night BD was taken to a new level. On stage with John Mayer in his LA BD performance. In the studio with Lee Ritenour working Overtime. No question in my mind (or ears) that this latest software is the best yet.


----------



## jayray

Could Rick and Milt, the lucky ARC 2.01 users, please indicate the freq at which you did your calculations. I agree with this as I said when I posted several pages back. This is the cheapest upgrade to a system for the performance diff that I can think of. No wonder backup of D2Vs are in the 3 week area









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/15726914
> 
> 
> ARC 2.0.1 loaded this weekend. Speaker positions tweaked, primary listening position measured out, reference levels set, mic with boomstand for accurate postitioning.....within 30 minutes I could not believe this was the same audio system. Wide and deep soundstage revealing nuances I thought lost after unloading my original Audio Research front end.
> 
> 
> Dark Night BD was taken to a new level. On stage with John Mayer in his LA BD performance. In the studio with Lee Ritenour working Overtime. No question in my mind (or ears) that this latest software is the best yet.



Happy Happy! Joy Joy!















































--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15721593
> 
> 
> You've got it. It's really a lot less complicated than it seems in a text explanation.
> 
> 
> Start by saving your current settings in Saved User and/or Installer Settings and then just play with LVSE and you'll get the hang of it pretty fast. If you screw anything up, you can just Reload Saved User or Installer Settings and voila you are back where you were.
> 
> 
> See the links collected in the first post of this thread for some discussion of how the custom video timing parameters work. There is also a PDF document in the downloaded folder containing LVSE which gives a diagram of the timing parameters.
> 
> 
> If your display is working right with the standard Video Output choices then you have no need to play with these. NOTE: LVSE provides additional pre-defined Video Output choices beyond what are found in the Setup menu. You can use any of those as well without having to dig into the full custom stuff. It still becomes a "custom" video resolution choice in the Setup menu, but you don't actually have to figure out any of the numbers.
> 
> 
> Primarily the custom stuff is for folks who are trying to get "native resolution" output to a display that has unusual timing needs such as some of the Pansonic 768p plasma displays.
> 
> 
> Fiddling with the Custom Gamma Correction curves should not be attempted unless you have an optical sensor so that you can measure what your curves are doing to the imaging. Nobody is able to properly adjust Gamma Correction curves purely by eye. If you do have an optical sensor and want to get into this stuff, it would be wise to visit the Video Calibration forum here and do some study. Your optical sensor may have come with tutorial information as well.
> 
> 
> Personally, I use the "exponential" Gamma Correction found in Video Source Adjust > Output. That works well enough for me that I've not found a need to use the custom curves. Calibration DVDs have "squint charts" that can be used to get a ballpark feel for the Gamma in your setup and the exponential correction provides a simple tool for adjusting that. The custom curves let you do the full on adjustment -- getting Gamma to track correctly over the entire response range -- either as a single "gray scale" curve or the even more sophisticated adjustment available by doing separate curves for R, G and B.
> 
> 
> You probably already have a handle on setting Black levels and White levels. The Gamma curves adjust the response of the output between Black and White. For historical technical reasons, a non-linear response is necessary. CRT displays achieved this automatically due to the physics of how they produce light. Modern digital displays need to do extra work to achieve this same non-linear response, and some displays are deliberately designed to do this wrong for marketing reasons or cost savings. Gamma Correction allows you to counter that.
> 
> 
> Proper Gamma Correction for digital displays will go a long way towards eliminating "banding" or "false contouring" in your video. The eye is also very sensitive to correct Gamma, and imaging with correct Gamma will look a lot more natural. But again, do not attempt to fiddle with the custom curves judging by eye alone. You need an optical sensor or your results will not be at all satisfactory. The eye can tell the difference between correct and incorrect Gamma, but won't give you a clue as to what has to be adjusted to fix incorrect settings.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks so much Bob!


----------



## hantman

Hi everyone, having read this forum almost every day for a year, I'd first like to say thank you for the incredible detail and advice Ive gotten on so many issues. Now, having upgraded my AVM-50 to ARC a few months ago and just redoing the settings with 2.01, I was wondering if I could ask for a quick review of my ARC measurements, since now that I redid them I still am not sure whether it all worked. Can anyone (Bob maybe?







) let me know how these look?


Thanks again for past advice and thanks in advance for any future help!


----------



## jayray

What freq did you do your calculations. Was it the default 5K or some other freq. If 5k try doing another calculation with 15K or 20K. This may smooth out the higher freq. My two cents









John


----------



## hantman

i did the "standard" so i guess all the defaults. would a higher frequency change the outcome? i understand essentially nothing about this process no matter how much i read!


----------



## jayray

Trying a higher freq may smooth out the upper end of the graphs. If the lower end changes a lot, go back by increments of maybe 1K until both ends look good. Version 2.01 of ARC does a very good job fixing upper freq and the lower ones, which by the way may not be visible on the graph. The diff will still be there. All these changes can be made and calculated without doing an upload to the processor. This allows you to play with diff settings and see their effects. When you get one that looks good, then upload it. Post your results with the higher freq.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hantman* /forum/post/15730073
> 
> 
> Hi everyone, having read this forum almost every day for a year, I'd first like to say thank you for the incredible detail and advice Ive gotten on so many issues. Now, having upgraded my AVM-50 to ARC a few months ago and just redoing the settings with 2.01, I was wondering if I could ask for a quick review of my ARC measurements, since now that I redid them I still am not sure whether it all worked. Can anyone (Bob maybe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) let me know how these look?
> 
> 
> Thanks again for past advice and thanks in advance for any future help!



These results look quite good in general, but there are two things I think you should do.


First, take a look at how you have positioned/pointed your Right Surround speaker. It looks a little weak in the highest frequencies -- more than ARC will be able to correct -- and that could be due to directionality. The amount of loss up there doesn't look big enough to be explained by a broken tweeter, but perhaps you have something blocking its output (as was the case with another poster). If the speaker is not mounted at seated ear height, check its vertical pointing. Any adjustment you make to that speaker will require you to re-Measure for ARC.


While checking this, it wouldn't hurt to play some high frequency content into that speaker and put your ear up close to the mid-range and then the tweeter and make sure they are both producing output. Stereo All mode while playing a CD is good for this.


That speaker aside, I think the only other thing you need to do is try some additional Calculations after raising the Max EQ Frequency value in the Targets window. Your Measured curves look good enough that I think you can give ARC the task of correcting to a higher frequency limit without suffering too much degradation of the results at lower frequencies. Start at the max of 20KHz to see which portions of the green curves start wobbling more either side of the dashed Target curve and then back off below 20KHz until you have what looks like a good compromise result -- more correction at higher frequencies without introducing significant residual errors at lower frequencies (i.e., more than a couple dB). It just takes a few minutes to try a variety of frequency limits (no need to re-Measure). When you get a result you like, Upload it and give it a listen.


Trust your ears. If the new results with the higher Max EQ Frequency Target sound better, then they are better. If they don't sound better, then don't use them -- even though the results curves might look better.


Your subwoofer looks like it is working very well, the Room Gain hump looks reasonable and your basic volume level looks reasonable. If you can get a slightly better Measured curve for Right Surround (by re-pointing it for example) I think ARC may be able to give you a fully corrected result from end to end.


I take it you don't have a Center speaker, correct?

--Bob


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15723909
> 
> 
> Nothing yet on the Deep Color. I also didn't get any response regarding Dolby Volume timeframe either.
> 
> 
> And as my daughter wants me to put a smiley face on, here it is...



Ok. After talking with Nick I gave 2.02a a shot at Deep Color. It worked once and failed several times. Gave him the feedback.


Also, unless I'm missing something, the OSD is simple white letters. They are difficult to see on many backgrounds since there is no shadow (or shadow box). Has anyone else noticed this on the D2s? I think they should have a box around the display area (semi-transparent, but darker).


----------



## hantman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15730542
> 
> 
> These results look quite good in general, but there are two things I think you should do.
> 
> 
> First, take a look at how you have positioned/pointed your Right Surround speaker. It looks a little weak in the highest frequencies -- more than ARC will be able to correct -- and that could be due to directionality. The amount of loss up there doesn't look big enough to be explained by a broken tweeter, but perhaps you have something blocking its output (as was the case with another poster). If the speaker is not mounted at seated ear height, check its vertical pointing. Any adjustment you make to that speaker will require you to re-Measure for ARC.
> 
> 
> While checking this, it wouldn't hurt to play some high frequency content into that speaker and put your ear up close to the mid-range and then the tweeter and make sure they are both producing output. Stereo All mode while playing a CD is good for this.
> 
> 
> That speaker aside, I think the only other thing you need to do is try some additional Calculations after raising the Max EQ Frequency value in the Targets window. Your Measured curves look good enough that I think you can give ARC the task of correcting to a higher frequency limit without suffering too much degradation of the results at lower frequencies. Start at the max of 20KHz to see which portions of the green curves start wobbling more either side of the dashed Target curve and then back off below 20KHz until you have what looks like a good compromise result -- more correction at higher frequencies without introducing significant residual errors at lower frequencies (i.e., more than a couple dB). It just takes a few minutes to try a variety of frequency limits (no need to re-Measure). When you get a result you like, Upload it and give it a listen.
> 
> 
> Trust your ears. If the new results with the higher Max EQ Frequency Target sound better, then they are better. If they don't sound better, then don't use them -- even though the results curves might look better.
> 
> 
> Your subwoofer looks like it is working very well, the Room Gain hump looks reasonable and your basic volume level looks reasonable. If you can get a slightly better Measured curve for Right Surround (by re-pointing it for example) I think ARC may be able to give you a fully corrected result from end to end.
> 
> 
> I take it you don't have a Center speaker, correct?
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, thats helpful and good to know things look ok. You are right, I don't have a center speaker hooked up at the moment. And as for the right surround, it is in a horrible place, 2 feet off the ground under a counter and behind my dining room table, and there isnt much I can do about it - the compromise I was forced to accept in going to 7.1 given the room configuration....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hantman* /forum/post/15730310
> 
> 
> i did the "standard" so i guess all the defaults. would a higher frequency change the outcome? i understand essentially nothing about this process no matter how much i read!



At the default settings, ARC stops trying to correct things at 5KHz. This makes sure folks using the simple ARC setup don't have to worry about directionality related problems in how ARC would calculate corrections above that point.


In the Advanced mode, you can raise that limit -- up to the maximum of 20KHz. I discussed what you should be looking for in the post above.


With ARC running in Advanced mode you have control of when it does each of the 3 phases of setup -- Measurement, Calculation, and Upload. With one good set of Measurements you can experiment with different Calculations until you decide you have one good enough to Upload. For most people, the only thing you will need to fiddle with is the Max EQ Frequency value in the Targets window. Enter a new value, accept that change (which also dismisses the Targets window), do a new Calculation, and if you like the result, do an Upload.


In the charts, the Red curves are your Measured values for each speaker. The black Dashed curves are the Target results ARC is trying to achieve -- based on the preliminary analysis ARC has made -- ARC's choice of values in the Targets window. The Green curve is the Calculated results showing how close ARC thinks it can come to achieving the Target curves.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15730563
> 
> 
> Ok. After talking with Nick I gave 2.02a a shot at Deep Color. It worked once and failed several times. Gave him the feedback.
> 
> 
> Also, unless I'm missing something, the OSD is simple white letters. They are difficult to see on many backgrounds since there is no shadow (or shadow box). Has anyone else noticed this on the D2s? I think they should have a box around the display area (semi-transparent, but darker).



Thanks for the report. So it looks like they still have some work to do on Deep Color. We still need reports from some other new owners to see if this is a general problem.


The OSD suggestion is a good one, although I must say it is fairly rare that it's been a problem for me over the past 2+ years. If you email the suggestion to Anthem tech support they will get it to the product managers and engineers for consideration. I don't know what flexibility they have with the character generator that produces the OSD.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hantman* /forum/post/15730651
> 
> 
> Thanks, thats helpful and good to know things look ok. You are right, I don't have a center speaker hooked up at the moment. And as for the right surround, it is in a horrible place, 2 feet off the ground under a counter and behind my dining room table, and there isnt much I can do about it - the compromise I was forced to accept in going to 7.1 given the room configuration....



Well you may not have much you can do about that speaker then, but you are really not that far off even now. So think about maybe tilting it a bit or something to get better vertical pointing and then take another Measurement. Even a few dB improvement in its high frequencies would get you into the 6dB range of correction ARC can provide up there (once you raise the Max EQ Frequency Target value to tell ARC it is OK to do correction up there).

--Bob


----------



## davidhoenig

Hey all - what is the current recommended USB/Serial adapter for use with the Anthem? Gotta return a work PC that I was using previously and it had a serial port.


I also seem to recall some issues with Vista not being supported? Is that still the case? XP only? Anyone try running the software in XP Compatibility mode?


Getting ready to update my ARC to the lastest (been quite a while since I messed with it) and want to make sure I have everything lined up.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/15731002
> 
> 
> Hey all - what is the current recommended USB/Serial adapter for use with the Anthem? Gotta return a work PC that I was using previously and it had a serial port.
> 
> 
> I also seem to recall some issues with Vista not being supported? Is that still the case? XP only? Anyone try running the software in XP Compatibility mode?
> 
> 
> Getting ready to update my ARC to the lastest (been quite a while since I messed with it) and want to make sure I have everything lined up.



People have reported the most success with the Keyspan USA-19HS USB to serial adapter ($31 from Amazon). Plug it into a USB port in your PC and run a "straight through" serial cable (pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9 without any swapping of lines) from there to the Anthem. Check the Keyspan site to see if there is a newer version of the driver for your Windows OS than comes in the package.


----------------------------------


We've had plenty of reports in this thread of folks using Vista with the Anthem stuff without problem. Problems seem to arise if folks have to fiddle with device drivers, such as if they had a previously installed USB/serial adapter that isn't working and they attempt to replace it.


So if Vista is more convenient for you, go ahead with that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There's a new backorder report available dated Feb 2. It's not as bad as I thought it might be:

http://www.amgav.com/docs/paradigmin...atusreport.pdf 


AVM 50v Black: Feb 6

Statement D2v: Feb 6

Statement D2v 17 1/4 inch: Feb 10


Again, I *THINK* these mean an order placed on Feb 2 would be expected to leave the factory on the dates above. Actual delivery dates would depend on shipping and customs delays.


The AVM 50v Silver and Statement D2v Rack Mount models are not listed -- which should mean that on Feb 2 they were in stock for immediate shipment.


----------------------------------------


This report also clarifies that the AVM 40, as well as all configurations of the original AVM 50 and Statement D2, have now been discontinued.


As far as I know, Anthem continues to sell the AVM 30 and Statement D1/ARC for folks who do not need a video processor.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

My rackmount D2v made it to the dealer yesterday (so must have been part of Fridays shipment) and is now in the hand of UPS on its way to me......unfortunately, not going to see it until after the weekend......


----------



## luser41

My apologies if I missed this while searching. Would a second-hand D2 be eligible for upgrade when the upgrade became available? If not, can anyone recommend a good dealer around the New York City area? I'm willing to travel a reasonable distance to get a good price.


Thanks,


Chris


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *luser41* /forum/post/15731634
> 
> 
> My apologies if I missed this while searching. Would a second-hand D2 be eligible for upgrade when the upgrade became available? If not, can anyone recommend a good dealer around the New York City area? I'm willing to travel a reasonable distance to get a good price.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Chris



Yes, you can purchase an upgrade for a used unit (once the upgrades become available in the first place).


The remaining part of the original owner's warranty does not transfer to the purchaser of a used unit unless the transaction is done through an authorized Anthem dealer. However any parts changed out as part of the upgrade get a new warranty, protecting the owner who purchased the upgrade, of the same length as a new warranty on the same type of component. I.e., 3 years for the audio stuff and 2 years for the video stuff, dated from date of the upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

My D2V will arrive Friday


----------



## kmcadillac44

I've been trying (without success!) to figure out a display issue I have. I have a Sony 550 Blu-ray player that I want to set SD DVD output to 480i going to my D2. When I do this a picture is shown but it is about 1/4 size. I am running the D2 to an Epson 1080 Pro UB. I have gone through every menu on the DVD, Anthem and projector with no luck. I did notice the aspect is locked to Normal on the Epson. Is that the issue or is there another way to resolve this? I also have an Oppo 981HD dvd player connected outputting 480P that works fine.


Any help is much appreciated (I LOVE the D2!)


----------



## luser41




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15731653
> 
> 
> Yes, you can purchase an upgrade for a used unit (once the upgrades become available in the first place).
> 
> 
> The remaining part of the original owner's warranty does not transfer to the purchaser of a used unit unless the transaction is done through an authorized Anthem dealer. However any parts changed out as part of the upgrade get a new warranty, protecting the owner who purchased the upgrade, of the same length as a new warranty on the same type of component. I.e., 3 years for the audio stuff and 2 years for the video stuff, dated from date of the upgrade.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks very much for the info Bob.


----------



## dlynch34

New arc measurements with 2.01:


here is my latest results:


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/15733763
> 
> 
> New arc measurements with 2.01:
> 
> 
> here is my latest results:



How does it sound?









John


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/15731853
> 
> 
> My D2V will arrive Friday



When did you order it?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kmcadillac44* /forum/post/15732458
> 
> 
> I've been trying (without success!) to figure out a display issue I have. I have a Sony 550 Blu-ray player that I want to set SD DVD output to 480i going to my D2. When I do this a picture is shown but it is about 1/4 size. I am running the D2 to an Epson 1080 Pro UB. I have gone through every menu on the DVD, Anthem and projector with no luck. I did notice the aspect is locked to Normal on the Epson. Is that the issue or is there another way to resolve this? I also have an Oppo 981HD dvd player connected outputting 480P that works fine.
> 
> 
> Any help is much appreciated (I LOVE the D2!)



In Setup > Source Setup for that input, make sure that the particular video input connection you are using is chosen in the Scaler In line. Make sure the Video Output configuration you want to use (out of the 4 available configurations) is chosen in the Video Out Config line.


While viewing SD-DVD content from that Blu-Ray player, now bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" key) and scroll right to the Scale Output panel. Make sure you have NOT chosen either the Zoom or No Scaling option in that panel. Typically you would use Anamorphic for wide screen SD-DVD movies and Letter/Pillar box for 4:3 SD-DVDs. Video Source Adjust settings are remembered separately for each source selection, so you must be viewing from that source to make sure you are making changes that adjust for that source.


Now scroll over to the Info panel and check what it says is going on for video input and video output resolutions. You should be seeing 720x480i input from the player and the higher resolution you have chosen for output to your display from the Anthem. If something unexpected is being reported go back and fix either the output of the player or the output of the Anthem.


Keep in mind that if you are playing a "letterboxed" wide screen SD-DVD it is NORMAL for there to be black around all 4 sides of the image. Letterboxed DVDs are intended for playing wide screen movies on traditional, 4:3 TVs. The wide screen movie is embedded in a 4:3 frame by the player (thus the bars top and bottom) and the Anthem embeds the 4:3 frame in the 16:9 wide screen frame for output to your 16:9 display (thus the bars left and right). Instead what you want is to buy an "anamorphic" SD-DVD -- often they will just say "enhanced for 16:9 TVs". These contain wide screen movies that will fill your 16:9 display left to right. For most wide screen movies you will still have letterbox bars top and bottom padding out the shape of the "wider than wide screen movie" to fit your merely "wide screen" display.


If you still want to play a "letterboxed" SD-DVD and have it fill your 16:9 screen you can do this with a Custom Crop Input setting in the Video Source Adjust menu. This will extract the 16:9 portion of the movie embedded inside the 4:3 frame coming in from the player. See the "Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling" links collected in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/15733763
> 
> 
> New arc measurements with 2.01:
> 
> 
> here is my latest results:



These look fine as is, and should sound wonderful. If you feel like doing some more fiddling with your speakers, you have a drop around 12KHz in the Left Rear that is more than ARC will correct. This might be fixable by repointing that speaker.


Your Center speaker is coupling pretty strongly with a room cancellation null around 150Hz. The residual error after ARC corrects is only a few dB so it would be OK to ignore it. But shifting the position of the Center a few inches --- or applying some bass trap room treatments to eliminate some of the wall reflections -- might reduce how it couples to that and get you closer to complete correction.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/15731002
> 
> 
> Hey all - what is the current recommended USB/Serial adapter for use with the Anthem? Gotta return a work PC that I was using previously and it had a serial port.
> 
> 
> I also seem to recall some issues with Vista not being supported? Is that still the case? XP only? Anyone try running the software in XP Compatibility mode?
> 
> 
> Getting ready to update my ARC to the lastest (been quite a while since I messed with it) and want to make sure I have everything lined up.



Vista will work with the Keyspan USB adapter but ARC may not work. I have tried it under Window7 and it cannot find the usb microphone.

If the drive in your notebook is removable (like thinkpad), I would suggest to get another drive and install WinXP on it.


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I presume with the D2V, that the ps3 can now be set to accept 7.1 pcm up to 192 khz and for all 5.1 apply PLIIx for the rear channels. Is this correct?

John


----------



## shawnboston

Sadly, I can confirm that the AVM50v and D2v is backordered as I just heard from my dealer that my unit did not ship yesterday and Anthem is having trouble telling him when the unit will actually ship (no answer is ever a good sign!). So, for those of you who received your D2vs already - congrats!!! I am envious and I'm hoping that I can join the ranks of happy Anthemites soon.


----------



## shawnboston

Sadly, I can confirm that the AVM50v and D2v are backordered as I just heard from my dealer that my unit did not ship yesterday and Anthem is having trouble telling him when the unit will actually ship (no answer is ever a good sign!). So, for those of you who received your D2vs already - congrats!!! I am envious and I'm hoping that I can join the ranks of happy Anthemites soon.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15734808
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I presume with the D2V, that the ps3 can now be set to accept 7.1 pcm up to 192 khz and for all 5.1 apply PLIIx for the rear channels. Is this correct?
> 
> John



That's the way it is supposed to work. Up to 7.1 192KHz from the PS3 regardless of how many speakers you actually have. The D2v will down mix if you have less than 7.1 speakers. The PS3 should only send 5.1 for 5.1 tracks when set this way, and the D2v can use PLIIx to raise that to 7.1 if you wish.


All of this has to be confirmed by new owners.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15735089
> 
> 
> Sadly, I can confirm that the AVM50v and D2v are backordered as I just heard from my dealer that my unit did not ship yesterday and Anthem is having trouble telling him when the unit will actually ship (no answer is ever a good sign!). So, for those of you who received your D2vs already - congrats!!! I am envious and I'm hoping that I can join the ranks of happy Anthemites soon.



When was your order originally placed by your dealer?

--Bob


----------



## shawnboston

About 3 weeks ago so I'm fairly certain I don't count as a bonafide 'pre-order' as with some of the other folks that have received or are waiting for their units.


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/15734451
> 
> 
> Vista will work with the Keyspan USB adapter but ARC may not work. I have tried it under Window7 and it cannot find the usb microphone.
> 
> If the drive in your notebook is removable (like thinkpad), I would suggest to get another drive and install WinXP on it.



I currently use a laptop with Windows Vista to run ARC. I also use the Keyspan adapter. I have not had any issues thus far.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15735192
> 
> 
> About 3 weeks ago so I'm fairly certain I don't count as a bonafide 'pre-order' as with some of the other folks that have received or are waiting for their units.



Well if we can believe the backorder report cited above, your unit should ship by Feb 6 unless it is one of the special order chassis units.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/15735290
> 
> 
> I currently use a laptop with Windows Vista to run ARC. I also use the Keyspan adapter. I have not had any issues thus far.



For both XP and Vista, Anthem has discovered issues due to some computer makers modifying the official Microsoft release for the stuff they bundle with the computer. But that aside, and ignoring issues due to trying to replace old drivers, both XP and Vista should work fine with ARC.


Windows 2000 works for Calculation and Upload, but not for Measurement. The Microsoft audio input framework ARC uses didn't get included until XP.

--Bob


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15726983
> 
> 
> Could Rick and Milt, the lucky ARC 2.01 users, please indicate the freq at which you did your calculations. I agree with this as I said when I posted several pages back. This is the cheapest upgrade to a system for the performance diff that I can think of. No wonder backup of D2Vs are in the 3 week area
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Used the default process settings, which I believe is 5K. Will experiment further including speaker/sub positioning due to room anomalies that showed up in the response graphs.


----------



## ironcorn

Hi,

I was told by Anthem via phone today (they called me back when I emailed my question) that the AVMv/Dv upgrade would be $2600-$3000 regardless if it was for an AVM or D and that it wouldn't be out for about one month. Has the price for the upgrade been creeping up? I thought it was going to be in the $2000 range.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ironcorn* /forum/post/15736396
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I was told by Anthem via phone today (they called me back when I emailed my question) that the AVMv/Dv upgrade would be $2600-$3000 regardless if it was for an AVM or D and that it wouldn't be out for about one month. Has the price for the upgrade been creeping up? I thought it was going to be in the $2000 range.



That's at the high end of the rumors we've heard. Perhaps they have decided to include more pieces in the upgrade (e.g., new front panel). I expect there will also be a discount for folks who already have an ARC license.


In the past, quotes from Anthem have tended to be higher than the actual price once the product or upgrade is actually available, presumably under the theory that customers will be less annoyed if the "real" price turns out to be lower than what was quoted.


But we just won't know for sure until they start actually taking upgrade orders.


ETA: The round trip timing sounds about right (or even a little optimistic) given shipment and customs delays both ways. I expect the actual time in the factory will only be on the order of 1 week. Oh, and welcome to the cool kids thread!

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15736489
> 
> 
> That's at the high end of the rumors we've heard. Perhaps they have decided to include more pieces in the upgrade (*e.g., new front panel*). I expect there will also be a discount for folks who already have an ARC license.
> 
> 
> In the past, quotes from Anthem have tended to be higher than the actual price once the product or upgrade is actually available, presumably under the theory that customers will be less annoyed if the "real" price turns out to be lower than what was quoted.
> 
> 
> But we just won't know for sure until they start actually taking upgrade orders.
> 
> 
> ETA: The round trip timing sounds about right (or even a little optimistic) given shipment and customs delays both ways. I expect the actual time in the factory will only be on the order of 1 week. Oh, and welcome to the cool kids thread!
> 
> --Bob


Yes!


New front panel confirmed!










What's that Bob? You say that's not a confirmation but only an example of something that at this point is merely a possibility!!! Well it's too late to back peddle now good sir. You said it’s happening so we'll take it to the bank!


Why am I so consumed by the possible availability of a new D2v front panel?


----------



## MStanic

What a weird name for this unit. It doesn't seem, based on name alone, like anything significant would have changed. It seems like a marketing mess to give this unit that name. I think D3 would have been more appropriate as you're also seeing the unit being able to decode the new DD/DTS Blue Ray formats.


Aside from that, does anybody have it yet and does it sound any different and does it process video with better pic quality? I'm contemplating trading in my D2 for this so call D2v.


If this list for $7500 MSRP, what would you pay for the new one after trade in. I recognize the upgrade is/will be available so I'll look at either option but going for a brand new one is what I'm looking at now.


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15730689
> 
> 
> Thanks for the report. So it looks like they still have some work to do on Deep Color. We still need reports from some other new owners to see if this is a general problem.
> 
> 
> The OSD suggestion is a good one, although I must say it is fairly rare that it's been a problem for me over the past 2+ years. If you email the suggestion to Anthem tech support they will get it to the product managers and engineers for consideration. I don't know what flexibility they have with the character generator that produces the OSD.
> 
> --Bob



So after I downgraded to 2.02, and I had in Dark Knight. I had one spot where the audio stopped again (like it did with 2.00). A pause and continue brought it back. I would say that it's not 100%...better though than 2.00. Has anyone else seen either issue?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15737357
> 
> 
> So after I downgraded to 2.02, and I had in Dark Knight. I had one spot where the audio stopped again (like it did with 2.00). A pause and continue brought it back. I would say that it's not 100%...better though than 2.00. Has anyone else seen either issue?



I'm curious why you rolled back to V2.02. Did you run into a problem with V2.02a, or did Nick suggest you roll back?

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/15736880
> 
> 
> What a weird name for this unit. It doesn't seem, based on name alone, like anything significant would have changed. It seems like a marketing mess to give this unit that name. I think D3 would have been more appropriate as you're also seeing the unit being able to decode the new DD/DTS Blue Ray formats.
> 
> 
> Aside from that, does anybody have it yet and does it sound any different and does it process video with better pic quality? I'm contemplating trading in my D2 for this so call D2v.
> 
> 
> If this list for $7500 MSRP, what would you pay for the new one after trade in. I recognize the upgrade is/will be available so I'll look at either option but going for a brand new one is what I'm looking at now.



I am not really answering your question, but if I did not want the dual HDMI output and the 7.1 input via HDMI I would not be "upgrading". From a sonic standpoint I don't think there will be a difference.


Mike


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/15736880
> 
> 
> new DD/DTS _*Blue Ray*_ formats.


*Blu-ray*


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15737788
> 
> 
> I am not really answering your question, but if I did not want the dual HDMI output and the 7.1 input via HDMI I would not be "upgrading". From a sonic standpoint I don't think there will be a difference.
> 
> 
> Mike





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/15736880
> 
> 
> What a weird name for this unit. It doesn't seem, based on name alone, like anything significant would have changed. It seems like a marketing mess to give this unit that name. I think D3 would have been more appropriate as you're also seeing the unit being able to decode the new DD/DTS Blue Ray formats.
> 
> 
> Aside from that, does anybody have it yet and does it sound any different and does it process video with better pic quality? I'm contemplating trading in my D2 for this so call D2v.
> 
> 
> If this list for $7500 MSRP, what would you pay for the new one after trade in. I recognize the upgrade is/will be available so I'll look at either option but going for a brand new one is what I'm looking at now.



I really think the video on the D2v is improved. Although I can't attribute the audio improvements to the D2v the new software ARC 2.0.1 is very impressive. If anyone is paying anywhere near the msrp pm me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The new, 12 bit, VXP video processor on the new video board in the D2v and AVM 50v is potentially capable of producing video improvements over the D2 or AVM 50, but we need to quantify this as more people take delivery.


Despite my skepticism, it is even possible that HDMI "Deep Color" in and out could be a win. Again, we'll need to try to quantify this. So far, we've had only one report of someone trying Deep Color and he couldn't make the connection happen (Anthem tech support is looking into this).


192KHz HDMI LPCM input could be a win for a limited set of audiophile discs compared to the 96KHz input limit of the D2 and AVM 50v.


7.1 channel HDMI input could also be a win for some folks, although there are limited discs out there with an aggressive enough surround mix to really make a difference over a 5.1 input raised to 7.1 via PLIIx. If there are any 7.1 games out there, they might show this off better.


TrueHD and DTS-HD MA decoding will be a win for folks who disregard my advice and buy a Blu-Ray player that is not able to perform its own decoding.


Dolby Volume in the D2v and AVM 50v (when that firmware becomes available) will be a win for some folks.


And I still have a suspicion that at some point in the future ARC will take advantage of the extra DSP processing power in the D2 and AVM 50v to do more than it can do in the D2 or AVM 50. But of course folks can wait until that actually happens if they wish.

--Bob


----------



## uberanalyst

The "win" I'm still waiting to hear about is whether the D2v can finally convert film-based 1080i/60 or 480i/60 to 1080p/24 reliably without losing frame sync. I love the smoother movement with Blu-ray 24p encoded movies (easily seen during film credits), and would like to apply 24p processing to all the 1080i HD movie channels I get with Verizon FiOS.


Please, somebody with a D2v let us know if the 24p conversion now works reliably.


- Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The ARC V2.0.1 download folder has just been updated on Anthem's password protected download page. The software is still V2.0.1. The only change is that the D2v and AVM 50v manuals have been updated.


I just looked through the D2v manual and didn't see any significant content changes. However Anthem has obviously changed the output setting they use when creating that file. First of all, each file now takes up 100Kb less space on disc. But also, artwork such as the ARC "chart" graphic which up to now has not displayed properly using Apple's Preview app on the Mac, now displays correctly in Preview. I no longer have to use the Adobe Reader app to see that chart graphic.


ETA: At the moment the ARC download folders on Anthem's public download pages have not yet been updated with these new D2v and AVM 50v manuals.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

The D2V has arrived



































Will test it out tomorrow and I can test the 1080p/24 upconversion as well as other amenities. Thought they had forgotten the ARC kit but it was packed in the D2V box







Came with firmware 2.02 and ARC 2.01. Will check for audio dropouts through lpcm with this version. Can I use my previous version of ARC calculations instead of doing new measurements? I recall Bob saying you could.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15739110
> 
> 
> The D2V has arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will test it out tomorrow and I can test the 1080p/24 upconversion as well as other amenities. Thought they had forgotten the ARC kit but it was packed in the D2V box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came with firmware 2.02 and ARC 2.01. Will check for audio dropouts through lpcm with this version. Can I use my previous version of ARC calculations instead of doing new measurements? I recall Bob saying you could.
> 
> 
> John



You are supposed to be able to use your prior ARC results (ARC is supposed to ask if you want the file converted for use with the new hardware), but since I haven't been able to try that yet I don't know what it does as regards licensing files. I don't know if you can install that on top of your current ARC V2.0.1 or whether you have to uninstall the old stuff first (using Windows Add/Remove programs).


Keep in mind that the licensing file for the new D2v serial number is also paired with the ARC mic calibration file for the new ARC mic. You will likely need to install the new pair of licensing files before ARC lets you Upload to your D2v.


I think that's OK since the calibration file is used only during Measurement. I.e the correct, old, calibration file was used when you did that old Measurement. And now when you install ARC for the D2v you will get the new licensing files from that CD and so you will be able to Upload your old results file to the new unit. Anyway, that's how I think it works without ever having tried it yet.


Now if you do a new Measurement you must be sure to use the ARC mic that came with the new D2v since that mic will need to be paired with the calibration file that came in the ARC kit CD with the new D2v (since that file is tied to the serial number of the new D2v as well as the serial number of the ARC mic itself).


Be careful not to mix up your two ARC mics. ARC can enforce that you are using an ARC mic, but ARC can't tell WHICH ARC mic you are using. It's up to you to use the ARC mic that matches the mic calibration file you currently have installed.


ETA: I recommend you *MAKE A COPY* of your old ARC results file and let ARC modify that copy as necessary for the new hardware. In case anything goes wrong, you'll still have your original of that old ARC results file that you can send to Nick at Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I uninstalled the previous version 2.01 and installed from the disc so the new files would be installed. Old files were also in the anthem folder. I deleted those. I sold my AVM50 with the ARC kit so I don't have any problem mixing mics. Just wondered if I should leave the sound trim vol at zero. They were at +4 for my AVM50. The sub is set from before to be at 75db with a trim level of 0.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15739285
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I uninstalled the previous version 2.01 and installed from the disc so the new files would be installed. Old files were also in the anthem folder. I deleted those. I sold my AVM50 with the ARC kit so I don't have any problem mixing mics. Just wondered if I should leave the sound trim vol at zero. They were at +4 for my AVM50. The sub is set from before to be at 75db with a trim level of 0.
> 
> John



Interesting question. I don't think it matters. The Upload will set all the individual speaker volume trims so everything should be balanced again. The Noise Level setting (which is not changed by the Upload) is only used during Measurement.


If you go into Setup > Speaker Calibration and try the internal test tones the resulting SPL will differ since the Noise Level isn't where you had it with your AVM 50. SPL from the test tones is a combo of Noise Level and the volume trim for each speaker. But actual listening doesn't use the Noise Level.

--Bob


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15737562
> 
> 
> I'm curious why you rolled back to V2.02. Did you run into a problem with V2.02a, or did Nick suggest you roll back?
> 
> --Bob



With 2.02a my Pro150 would sometimes (most times actually) end up at 1280x1024 60Hz even though the Anthem said it was outputting 1080p. The screen was totally garbled...you could somewhat make out the OSD from the PS3 and the anthem if you knew what you were looking at.


At least with 2.02 it always ends up at 1080p like it is supposed to. I tried it with and without Frame Lock.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ouch! Thanks for the report.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Tried uploading ARC file and get a failed to verify serial number. Reinstalled ARC so there is no remnants of my previous files. Now the Anthem folder is empty but ARC runs







Will download ARC and place serial numbers for new unit into folder.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Perhaps you need both the old and new license files in there.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Put both serial numbers and still same message.

John


----------



## jayray

Bob,

No files appear in the Anthem folder in program files. This is strange and is probably the reason serial numbers cannot be found. No matter how many times I delete and reinstall ARC, the folder is empty. Go figure. I am going to bed now but will call Nick tomorrow. thanks for your help Bob.

John


----------



## billatlakegeorge

From the C:\\Program Files\\Anthem folder I had to copy and paste the 2 license files into the C:\\Program Files\\Anthem\\AnthemRoomCorrection folder to get it to work.


----------



## kmcadillac44

Originally Posted by kmcadillac44

I've been trying (without success!) to figure out a display issue I have. I have a Sony 550 Blu-ray player that I want to set SD DVD output to 480i going to my D2. When I do this a picture is shown but it is about 1/4 size. I am running the D2 to an Epson 1080 Pro UB. I have gone through every menu on the DVD, Anthem and projector with no luck. I did notice the aspect is locked to Normal on the Epson. Is that the issue or is there another way to resolve this? I also have an Oppo 981HD dvd player connected outputting 480P that works fine.


Any help is much appreciated (I LOVE the D2!)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15734231
> 
> 
> In Setup > Source Setup for that input, make sure that the particular video input connection you are using is chosen in the Scaler In line. Make sure the Video Output configuration you want to use (out of the 4 available configurations) is chosen in the Video Out Config line.
> 
> 
> While viewing SD-DVD content from that Blu-Ray player, now bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" key) and scroll right to the Scale Output panel. Make sure you have NOT chosen either the Zoom or No Scaling option in that panel. Typically you would use Anamorphic for wide screen SD-DVD movies and Letter/Pillar box for 4:3 SD-DVDs. Video Source Adjust settings are remembered separately for each source selection, so you must be viewing from that source to make sure you are making changes that adjust for that source.
> 
> 
> Now scroll over to the Info panel and check what it says is going on for video input and video output resolutions. You should be seeing 720x480i input from the player and the higher resolution you have chosen for output to your display from the Anthem. If something unexpected is being reported go back and fix either the output of the player or the output of the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that if you are playing a "letterboxed" wide screen SD-DVD it is NORMAL for there to be black around all 4 sides of the image. Letterboxed DVDs are intended for playing wide screen movies on traditional, 4:3 TVs. The wide screen movie is embedded in a 4:3 frame by the player (thus the bars top and bottom) and the Anthem embeds the 4:3 frame in the 16:9 wide screen frame for output to your 16:9 display (thus the bars left and right). Instead what you want is to buy an "anamorphic" SD-DVD -- often they will just say "enhanced for 16:9 TVs". These contain wide screen movies that will fill your 16:9 display left to right. For most wide screen movies you will still have letterbox bars top and bottom padding out the shape of the "wider than wide screen movie" to fit your merely "wide screen" display.
> 
> 
> If you still want to play a "letterboxed" SD-DVD and have it fill your 16:9 screen you can do this with a Custom Crop Input setting in the Video Source Adjust menu. This will extract the 16:9 portion of the movie embedded inside the 4:3 frame coming in from the player. See the "Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling" links collected in the first post of this thread.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob - got it working! I am amazed the difference running 480i directly to the D2 instead of 480P makes. I have a difficult time telling a big difference from Blu-Ray and the D2 upconverted 480i now- I also tried one of my Blu-ray discs that is 1080i, and reset the DVD player output to 1080i - the D2 and makes a significant difference in the 1080P delivered. Neat stuff!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15739110
> 
> 
> The D2V has arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will test it out tomorrow and I can test the 1080p/24 upconversion as well as other amenities. Thought they had forgotten the ARC kit but it was packed in the D2V box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came with firmware 2.02 and ARC 2.01. Will check for audio dropouts through lpcm with this version. Can I use my previous version of ARC calculations instead of doing new measurements? I recall Bob saying you could.
> 
> 
> John



Congratulation!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15741523
> 
> 
> From the C:\\Program Files\\Anthem folder I had to copy and paste the 2 license files into the C:\\Program Files\\Anthem\\AnthemRoomCorrection folder to get it to work.



That's what I did but still get error.

John.


----------



## jayray

Seems it doesn't like the AVM50 files. Am remeasuring now.


----------



## jayray

Did new measurement and all is well. Nick said the previous AVM50 files are stamped with it's serial number so they will not work with the new unit's serial number, so remeasuring is recommended. Even if someone got it to work, he said it is an anomaly and won't work for most.

Now to play









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kmcadillac44* /forum/post/15741839
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob - got it working! I am amazed the difference running 480i directly to the D2 instead of 480P makes. I have a difficult time telling a big difference from Blu-Ray and the D2 upconverted 480i now- I also tried one of my Blu-ray discs that is 1080i, and reset the DVD player output to 1080i - the D2 and makes a significant difference in the 1080P delivered. Neat stuff!



Cool! The improvement will vary of course, according to what each player is capable of doing on its own. But yes, properly handled SD-DVD video is amazing. It's a pity so few people have ever seen it.






































--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*CAUTION! Do Not Use "Test" D2v/AVM 50v Firmware V2.02a!*


Just got an email from Nick at Anthem warning people off of using "test" firmware V2.02a for the D2v or AVM 50v. It was an experiment attempting to address certain issues and it turns out it does more harm than good. In particular it breaks ARC. If you have already installed it, just roll back to the V2.02 version that is found in the same download folder.


Firmware V2.02a was only ever available on Anthem's password protected download page. As always, installing "test" software from the password protected download page should only be done if you are instructed to do so by Anthem tech support or if you have an unusually large tolerance for potentially unpleasant surprises.


Nick also says Anthem is aware of a few issues in V2.02 -- comparatively minor (he didn't elaborate) -- and that he expects an update shortly that addresses them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15742944
> 
> 
> Did new measurement and all is well. Nick said the previous AVM50 files are stamped with it's serial number so they will not work with the new unit's serial number, so remeasuring is recommended. Even if someone got it to work, he said it is an anomaly and won't work for most.
> 
> Now to play
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



OK, that report deserves a cookie!

*CAUTION: Do not attempt to Upload a prior ARC results file into your new D2v or AVM 50v. Install ARC software from the ARC CD that came with your new unit (so that you get the new licensing/calibration files properly installed) and do a new Measurement, Calculation, and Upload. Be sure to use the newly arrived ARC mic with the serial number matching the calibration file you just installed.*


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kmcadillac44* /forum/post/15741839
> 
> 
> I am amazed the difference running 480i directly to the D2 instead of 480P makes.



Here's another good trick for you to play with:


When playing 4:3 content from SD-DVDs at player output resolutions below 720p, set the player to believe it is talking to a 16:9 display (just as you always do with sources connected to the Anthem) and set the player to fill the screen from left to right -- i.e., set it to *NOT* add pillar box bars on either side.


The player manual will likely describe this as "stretching" the image, and indeed that's what it appears like (circles become wide ovals), but in reality the player is doing NOTHING to the image data coming off the disc.


At 480i or 480p, the output of the player is 720 pixels across each line regardless of whether the image is "stretched" or pillar boxed. As it turns out, SD-DVD pixels are non-square and variable width. The difference between a wide screen and a 4:3 movie is not the imaging data coming off the disc but how the pixels are interpreted -- how wide you think each pixel is.


If you set the player to add pillar box bars (so that the 4:3 movie appears to have the correct shape) what happens is that the player generates the black bars using some of the 720 pixels at either end of each line. The movie itself has to fit in the pixels that remain in the middle.


And that means you lose horizontal resolution!


Instead, tell the player to send the entire 720 pixels unchanged (which makes the movie appear stretched) and then tell the ANTHEM to add the pillar box bars. You do this by setting Video Source Adjust > Scale Out > Letter/Pillar Box.


The difference is that the Anthem does this at the higher (1080p) resolution it uses for video processing. Some pixels are still consumed holding the black bars on either side, but since there are 1920 pixels across each 1080p line that still leaves plenty of pixels in the middle to hold the full information content of the original 720 pixel imagery coming off the disc.


I.e., you retain all the original horizontal resolution.


This is particularly noticeable in color detail as the color information coming off the disc is already only half the horizontal resolution of the gray scale information -- you don't want to lose any of that.


When viewing wide screen SD-DVD movies which are on disc as "anamorphic" or "enhanced for 16:9 TV", there is no issue here. Neither the player nor the Anthem will be adding pillar box bars.


And when using video output resolutions of 720p or higher from the player there's also no issue even with 4:3 movies. You can let the player add the pillar box bars if you wish since it too is now doing that using the higher resolution lines.


But when watching 4:3 SD-DVDs at 480i (the recommended setup), tell the player to fill the screen from left to right and tell the Anthem to add the pillar box bars.


NOTE: If the player offers more than one way to fill the screen left to right for 4:3 SD-DVD movies, one of those ways will be "uniform horizontal stretching without cropping". I.e., you see the entire image with no parts lost off the edges, and the horizontal stretch is done to the same degree all the way across the screen. That's the output mode you want from the player. You do *NOT* want a mode which zooms in and fills the screen left to right but also loses some of the image off the top and bottom. And you also do *NOT* want a mode which stretches horizontally but does more stretching towards the sides so that the center of the image looks less distorted.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Have just tried music so far and it was like adding ARC over ARC, ie sound stage widened, detail improved and depth was greater. I used cd, ipod to test this and they were very familiar discs. The diff from the AVM 50 to D2V is another step up. I didn't think this kind of a diff would be audible but it was and I thought with ARC on my AVM50 it couldn't get much better, but clearly I was wrong









Now for movies.

Nick also mentioned to me not to use the new test firmware as it was developed for one particular issue from on owner. How's that for service.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15743828
> 
> 
> Have just tried music so far and it was like adding ARC over ARC, ie sound stage widened, detail improved and depth was greater. I used cd, ipod to test this and they were very familiar discs. The diff from the AVM 50 to D2V is another step up. I didn't think this kind of a diff would be audible but it was and I thought with ARC on my AVM50 it couldn't get much better, but clearly I was wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for movies.



As a long time AVM 50 owner, and in particular one who is very familiar with ARC on the AVM 50, it would be extremely helpful if you can find ways to quantify the audio improvement you find in the D2v (with ARC).


Since the ARC software is currently identical on all platforms, and since the audio solution in the AVM 50v is comparable to the one in the AVM 50, this comparison will be really helpful for folks trying to justify spending the extra money for the D2v over the AVM 50v.


If you don't mind, it will also be helpful if you can repeat the details of your speakers and home theater setup so folks can keep your comments in context.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15744042
> 
> 
> As a long time AVM 50 owner, and in particular one who is very familiar with ARC on the AVM 50, it would be extremely helpful if you can find ways to quantify the audio improvement you find in the D2v (with ARC).
> 
> 
> Since the ARC software is currently identical on all platforms, and since the audio solution in the AVM 50v is comparable to the one in the AVM 50, this comparison will be really helpful for folks trying to justify spending the extra money for the D2v over the AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> If you don't mind, it will also be helpful if you can repeat the details of your speakers and home theater setup so folks can keep your comments in context.
> 
> --Bob



OK her goes.


Room 14x25, Safe and Sound insulation in walls and ceiling. Drywall over it. Floor has Dri Core panels, they probably flex a little too. Ht. 7.5 ft.

D2V

A2 and A5 amps

Frontaradigm studio 100 v.4

Centrearadigm CC-690

Surrounds: 4x PSB S50

Sub: Servo 15

I sit 15 ft. from front speakers


My new measurements show almost identical results on the charts but do not account for the upsampling and oversampling that the D2 does with all output signals. I had a long chat with Nick about this and he was not surprised with my observations. I am not quite sure how to quantify this, so any suggestions would help me Bob.

John

Off to test movies. I will try to test the 1080p/24 upconversion and check for lpcm droupouts and do some bitstreaming with my HDVD player. Have a couple of DTS-MA discs I can try.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Jayray,

That's fine on the setup details. Any reports on the audio improvement will, necessarily, be subjective of course.


Just report the type of content you are listening to and anything that really strikes you as different in the D2v/ARC as compared to your AVM 50/ARC. This could be from the vague -- "Sounded better but I can't figure out why." -- to the detailed -- "Played such and so disc and heard such and so specific detail that had not been revealed before," or, "The surround field was much more natural," or, etc.


Just report whatever is making you grin.


One of my epiphany moments with ARC V1.2.5 for example was when I got up to open the door because someone was knocking. I was actually out of the chair before I realized it was something in the audio track of the movie I was watching.


It's just rare that we have a chance to hear comparison reports like this from someone who is already so familiar with what the AVM 50 line is capable of doing.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15743828
> 
> 
> Have just tried music so far and it was like adding ARC over ARC, ie sound stage widened, detail improved and depth was greater. I used cd, ipod to test this and they were very familiar discs. The diff from the AVM 50 to D2V is another step up. I didn't think this kind of a diff would be audible but it was and I thought with ARC on my AVM50 it couldn't get much better, but clearly I was wrong



ENJOY the D2v2


----------



## KIDSMD1

I absolutely love this forum especially this thread. I have been following this thread since I purchased my D2 in Dec 06. As a result I was able to correct almost every problem by postings in this thread my thanks to each of you especially BOB!! (I have print outs and a file of many of your posts). I have only contacted Nick twice!

Currently, I have a problem with interpreting my Arc files. It appears that I have a room problem with dropouts in all my speakers at about 12khz. My room (15x33x16 with slopes front and back down to 7') is damped both sides and behind speakes with black felt. I removed the damping and no real change. My center and fronts are 3' at midrange and my surrounds and rears are wall monted at 6'. My speakers are rated +/- 3db from 25Hz(f&c)40(s&r) to 25kHz. My setup has been honed for the best localization and staging as possible yet this measurement by arc is puzzling. The system sounds great but I'm wondering if there is something I need to do to improve my measurements. Always reaching for perfection







Any suggestions are appreciated!!



(System configronto TSU 9600- remote

Stewart HDTV 133" electrosol Luxus A Ultramatte 150- FS

JVC RS-1 - Projector(1080P/24)

Anthem Statement D2- PRE/PRO

NuForce 9 V2SE mono amplifiers x 5

Sunfire Theater Grand 7- Amplifier

Sony PS3- Bluray disc Player

Toshiba HD-XA2- HD DVD player

SA 8300HD DVR- Cable box

DirecTv HD DVR20 (2)- Sat DVR's

Speakers(7.1):

Von Schweikert VR4-SR- mains ( bi-amped)

Von Schweikert ViSiun- center

Von Schweikert TS-150 (4)- surrounds

Definitive Technology Trinity Signature subs x 2

Turntable:

Linn Sondek LP12 with latest mods and Origin Live DC motor; Ringmat (platter) record modular support system; Origin Live Encounter tonearm and a Grado Statement Reference phono cartridge with a Dynavector P-75 mk II phono amp

Jena Labs speaker cables and balanced interconnects to amplifiers/and RCA to phono pre-amp, WireWorld digital and HDMI interconnects/Power cabling. Also Richard Grey Power Conditioners)


----------



## ~Ohdee~

He guys, I'm thinking of getting a new bluray player. I watch a lot of movies. Between four and six a week! I also have a 13 month old son so unfortunately most of my movie viewing is done between -30dB and -25dB. I know, all that power and I rarely get to drop the hammer. Well that's not true. My wife will take him out shopping with her and I'll take the Bryston/D2 for a spin.


So the reason I'm considering a bluray player is the PS3's fan is loud at low volume. That's the only reason but it's a reason in my opinion. Other than that I love the PS3. It players everything!


So what would you suggest? I'm thinking of a lower end Panasonic BD55??? Seeing as the D2 does all the heavy lifting.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KIDSMD1* /forum/post/15746005
> 
> 
> I absolutely love this forum especially this thread. I have been following this thread since I purchased my D2 in Dec 06. As a result I was able to correct almost every problem by postings in this thread my thanks to each of you especially BOB!! (I have print outs and a file of many of your posts). I have only contacted Nick twice!
> 
> Currently, I have a problem with interpreting my Arc files. It appears that I have a room problem with dropouts in all my speakers at about 12khz. My room (15x33x16 with slopes front and back down to 7') is damped both sides and behind speakes with black felt. I removed the damping and no real change. My center and fronts are 3' at midrange and my surrounds and rears are wall monted at 6'. My speakers are rated +/- 3db from 25Hz(f&c)40(s&r) to 25kHz. My setup has been honed for the best localization and staging as possible yet this measurement by arc is puzzling. The system sounds great but I'm wondering if there is something I need to do to improve my measurements. Always reaching for perfection
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions are appreciated!!



Welcome to the cool kids thread, and thanks for the kind words!


You've really got nothing you need to do up there. Your residual error after ARC does its thing is no worse than 1.5dB, and that only right at 12KHz in just one speaker (LR).


If you want to tackle this you would need to look to the pointing -- primarily the vertical pointing -- of ALL your speakers (you'll see that ARC is rolling off its Target curve a bit for all the speakers -- but only LR is not completely corrected to that Target). The felt damping won't have any effect on these frequencies (as long as it is not in front of the speakers). I think you are just seeing frequency dependent directionality from the speakers -- not unusual at high frequencies, and usually worse in the vertical than in the horizontal directions.


Again, if I were seeing these results I'd probably just declare victory and enjoy.


----------------------------------------


At the other end, your sub is a little hot at 20Hz. This is likely "boundary gain" due to placement close to a wall or corner. If you are going to fiddle, you might want to move it out just a few inches before taking your next Measurement. Right now it is about 5dB hot there after ARC applies its correction. See if you can get it down within 3dB of the Target line.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15746152
> 
> 
> He guys, I’m thinking of getting a new bluray player. I watch a lot of movies. Between four and six a week! I also have a 13 month old son so unfortunately most of my movie viewing is done between –30dB and –25dB. I know, all that power and I rarely get to drop the hammer. Well that’s not true. My wife will take him out shopping with her and I’ll take the Bryston/D2 for a spin.
> 
> 
> So the reason I’m considering a bluray player is the PS3’s fan is loud at low volume. That’s the only reason but it’s a reason in my opinion. Other than that I love the PS3. It players everything!
> 
> 
> So what would you suggest? I’m thinking of a lower end Panasonic BD55??? Seeing as the D2 does all the heavy lifting.



Well you might want to consider just getting a newer PS3. The models currently being sold are all based off the cooler running electronics used in the 40GB model first sold early last year. Such models are far less likely to require a noticeable amount of fan assist. [NOTE: If you already HAVE one of those models, and you are still hearing excessive fan noise when playing Blu-Ray discs, then the odds are your PS3 needs warranty service.]


But that aside, if I were in the market for a new Blu-Ray player right now I'd probably hold off for a bit to await the arrival of the new Oppo player. It is in field testing now, and rumor has it that March is a possible ship date. Oppo has already released some details that you'll find in a pre-release thread in the player forum here.


Of the players shipping today, my personal favorite for use with the D2 remains the PS3.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15746152
> 
> 
> He guys, I’m thinking of getting a new bluray player. I watch a lot of movies. Between four and six a week! I also have a 13 month old son so unfortunately most of my movie viewing is done between –30dB and –25dB. I know, all that power and I rarely get to drop the hammer. Well that’s not true. My wife will take him out shopping with her and I’ll take the Bryston/D2 for a spin.
> 
> 
> So the reason I’m considering a bluray player is the PS3’s fan is loud at low volume. That’s the only reason but it’s a reason in my opinion. Other than that I love the PS3. It players everything!
> 
> 
> So what would you suggest? I’m thinking of a lower end Panasonic BD55??? Seeing as the D2 does all the heavy lifting.



I've heard good things about that player, and you aren't buying lots of features and capability that you won't use (since the D2 does it better).


You might look into the upcoming Oppo BD player. I am considering it for my sole disc player so I could take my Oppo 970 upstairs. It has a 'native' mode where it will put out 480i if you have SD DVD, and 1080p if you have BD. [Edit - I see that Bob already recommended this!]


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I guess waiting for the Oppo is the best option.


I too love the PS3. I do all the updates and like I said have never run into disc issues. I see people all over AVS talking about disc's that won't load. That would be so frustrating.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15746343
> 
> 
> Well you might want to consider just getting a newer PS3. The models currently being sold are all based off the cooler running electronics used in the 40GB model first sold early last year. Such models are far less likely to require a noticeable amount of fan assist. [NOTE: If you already HAVE one of those models, and you are still hearing excessive fan noise when playing Blu-Ray discs, then the odds are your PS3 needs warranty service.]
> 
> 
> But that aside, if I were in the market for a new Blu-Ray player right now I'd probably hold off for a bit to await the arrival of the new Oppo player. It is in field testing now, and rumor has it that March is a possible ship date. Oppo has already released some details that you'll find in a pre-release thread in the player forum here.
> 
> 
> Of the players shipping today, my personal favorite for use with the D2 remains the PS3.
> 
> --Bob


*I have to AGREE with Bob.
*

I have a SPARE Pioneer Blu-Ray player that is RETIRED since I got my PS3 and

I also agree I can't hear the fan. But then mine are the newer versions Bob referred to.


AGAIN - living with the fan noise might be a good choice since other Blu-Ray

players still don't come close to the performance of the PS3.


----------



## sbwright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15744480
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> One of my epiphany moments with ARC V1.2.5 for example was when I got up to open the door because someone was knocking. I was actually out of the chair before I realized it was something in the audio track of the movie I was watching.
> 
> --Bob



Bob I had to chuckle when I read your post... I still do that on occasion...and it drives our cat crazy, he is always running upstairs to the door wondrring who is here or outside.


The wife and I are astounded at the sounds we now hear that we never heard before.


----------



## BillW

If you have any SACD or DVD- A the soon to be released Oppo. It's what I am waiting for.


----------



## jayray

Thanks to all the well wishers. I have just come up from the cave and these are my observations. These comments are all compared to AVM50 with ARC and my D2V with ARC.


1. I used the following discs. All are BD or HDDVD

a. Dave Matthews at Radio City.(Guitar detail was terrific. I have the same Martin guitar as Matthews so I know how it sounds live.)

b. Ratatouille(sewer scene)

c. AVP Requiem(Opening scene as Alien ship moves from right to left the LFE is room shaking. Scene where alien ship crashes into mountain. LFE is so low and tight again even compared to my AVM50

d. Chronicles of Riddick scene 2, in cave, detail and surround field are smoother and more natural.

In all these films I noticed

1. Increased detail

2. More natural sound field, and this was dramatic.

3. Sound field was more 3D and enveloping. I felt more in the middle of scenes than with AVM50.

4. Very smooth sound, this is hard to describe but to my ear it improved over the previous.

Hope this helps. I did try bitstreaming from my HDDVD and the D2V picked up the DTS-MA track and displayed on front panel, cool. Upconverting anything to 1080p/24 still doesn't work. Apparently Sigma is working on it.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks for all that Jayray! Help yourself to another cookie for the DTS MA bitstreaming report! And heck, take another for the audio comparison report!


I'm not surprised about the conversion into 1080p/24. Around the holidays Nick said he thought the new chip was capable of doing it correctly, but it wasn't a priority for the launch firmware.


ETA: And I presume your hiss issue when changing sources is also gone.

--Bob


----------



## legacyrocks

Hi. I have a D2 and I just found out that my digital coaxial inputs are not working. Is there a setting that I am missing?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15746970
> 
> 
> Thanks for all that Jayray! Help yourself to another cookie for the DTS MA bitstreaming report! And heck, take another for the audio comparison report!
> 
> 
> I'm not surprised about the conversion into 1080p/24. Around the holidays Nick said he thought the new chip was capable of doing it correctly, but it wasn't a priority for the launch firmware.
> 
> 
> ETA: And I presume your hiss issue when changing sources is also gone.
> 
> --Bob



Can it be set to pass through 1080p/24? I have a couple of 24p sources, and I'd like those to be untouched. Everything else can be upconverted to 1080p/60 I think.


(I've got one on order, hopefully arriving soon as it's the in-stock, at the time, rack-mount version of the D2v.)


Oh yeah, anything else I should buy to prep? I think someone recommended a boom mic stand, can you PM or repost the link? Anything else to buy to get ready?


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legacyrocks* /forum/post/15747005
> 
> 
> Hi. I have a D2 and I just found out that my digital coaxial inputs are not working. Is there a setting that I am missing?



Odds are it is either a simple error in the Setup > Source Setup menu for that source device or you have connected to the wrong jacks on the back of the D2.


There are some limitations from some source devices as well -- e.g., you can't get coax digital audio if you have HDMI hooked up, or as with some cable TV set top boxes that will only output digital audio if you happen to be tuned to a digital cable channel.


What are you trying to do, and what have you done so far to diagnose the problem?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15747015
> 
> 
> Can it be set to pass through 1080p/24? I have a couple of 24p sources, and I'd like those to be untouched. Everything else can be upconverted to 1080p/60 I think.
> 
> 
> (I've got one on order, hopefully arriving soon as it's the in-stock, at the time, rack-mount version of the D2v.)
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, anything else I should buy to prep? I think someone recommended a boom mic stand, can you PM or repost the link? Anything else to buy to get ready?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



The problem only exists if you attempt to convert 480i/60 or 1080i/60 content to 1080p/24 output.


If you already have 1080p/24 content, as from a Blu-Ray movie, you can get perfect 1080p/24 output now either by selecting a Video Output configuration you have defined to use 1080p/24 or by using the Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock feature combined with a 1080p/60 Video Output configuration.


You'll want a Radio Shack SPL meter and some calibration DVD or Blu-Ray discs of course.


Here's the link on that boom mic stand I like:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...icrophone.html 


ETA: You'll need a Windows XP or Vista computer with a serial port for doing ARC setup. I use Windows XP Pro running in the Bootcamp environment on an Apple MacBook for this. If your computer doesn't have a serial port, you can use the Keyspan USA-19HS USB to Serial adapter (available from Amazon), or you could insert a PC-card that provides a serial port. A decent length serial cable itself is now included in the accessories with the Anthem.


--Bob


----------



## legacyrocks

Sorry. Got to get to work. I will try a couple of things and get back to you tomorrow. Thanks Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *legacyrocks* /forum/post/15747140
> 
> 
> Sorry. Got to get to work. I will try a couple of things and get back to you tomorrow. Thanks Bob.



No problem. Odds are it is something simple.

--Bob


----------



## KIDSMD1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15746254
> 
> 
> Welcome to the cool kids thread, and thanks for the kind words!
> 
> 
> You've really got nothing you need to do up there. Your residual error after ARC does its thing is no worse than 1.5dB, and that only right at 12KHz in just one speaker (LR).
> 
> 
> If you want to tackle this you would need to look to the pointing -- primarily the vertical pointing -- of ALL your speakers (you'll see that ARC is rolling off its Target curve a bit for all the speakers -- but only LR is not completely corrected to that Target). The felt damping won't have any effect on these frequencies (as long as it is not in front of the speakers). I think you are just seeing frequency dependent directionality from the speakers -- not unusual at high frequencies, and usually worse in the vertical than in the horizontal directions.
> 
> 
> Again, if I were seeing these results I'd probably just declare victory and enjoy.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> At the other end, your sub is a little hot at 20Hz. This is likely "boundary gain" due to placement close to a wall or corner. If you are going to fiddle, you might want to move it out just a few inches before taking your next Measurement. Right now it is about 5dB hot there after ARC applies its correction. See if you can get it down within 3dB of the Target line.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Thanks!!!! you really know your stuff. I'll work on the sub woofer and vertical positioning


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15746970
> 
> 
> Thanks for all that Jayray! Help yourself to another cookie for the DTS MA bitstreaming report! And heck, take another for the audio comparison report!
> 
> 
> I'm not surprised about the conversion into 1080p/24. Around the holidays Nick said he thought the new chip was capable of doing it correctly, but it wasn't a priority for the launch firmware.
> 
> 
> ETA: And I presume your hiss issue when changing sources is also gone.
> 
> --Bob



Yes







however I am getting a very low thumping sound from my sub when a source finishes playing. Email to Nick









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Some brave soul with a new D2v or AVM 50v, and a Blu-Ray player that bitstreams DTS-HD MA, needs to test that the decoding in the new Anthem units doesn't suffer from the now infamous "DTS-HD MA BOMB!"


This is a scary loud explosion of sound due to a software error in early DTS-HD MA decoding systems. It is generated only by certain DTS-HD MA discs. The error can only occur in the device doing the decoding The Onkyo and Yamaha decoding receivers got bit with this big time last year. (All of which have since had firmware updates eliminating the BOMB.) For example, the PS3 player does not exhibit this error and so it is perfectly safe to play even the known problem discs with the PS3 decoding the DTS-HD MA tracks and sending HDMI LPCM to the Anthems.


The following thread details the BOMB and gives example time codes from discs known to trigger this failure:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1008620 

*WARNING: This bug, if it exists, results in sound blasts loud enough to damage speakers. I recommend you test this using headphones (the bug, if it exists, should still be present in the stereo down mix sent to the headphones) and/or with main volume turned way down to start.*


----------------------------------------------


On a much safer plane, we also need some tests to confirm that lip-sync isn't showing any problems for folks who choose to bitstream TrueHD or DTS-HD MA to the new Anthems.


--Bob


----------



## jayray

Just in case I came across as putting down the AVM50, let me say that for a year and half I had the pleasure of listening to the AVM50 and it is a great pre/pro. With ARC it is hard to beat. However there is a diff b/t the two units which may be worth the extra $ or not depending on your situation. Having experienced the two I am comfortable with my decision.

I also noticed today that when playing DTS off of an HDDVD, the D2V displayed DTS-HD. I smiled at this since this was the format on Laser discs with DTS, ie. 1500 kb/s. Now it is HD, before it was DTS









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2v/AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.02a Withdrawn*


This should come as no surprise based on the report from Nick I posted earlier today, but the "test" firmware version V2.02a for the D2v and AVM 50v has now been removed from Anthem's password protected download page.


The V2.02 firmware is the only one on there at the moment.


Again, if you happen to have already installed V2.02a on a D2v or AVM 50v, you should roll back to the V2.02 version. Among other things, V2.02a breaks ARC.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I can't remember, it has been a long time, whether ARC has to be uploaded after a firmware update. I got ARC right after 1.33 came out. I figure some more updates will come out for the upgrades.

As well I couldn't see much of a diff with the new video processor. I haven't tried any torture tests but from limited viewing today, nothing is obvious.

John


----------



## dcrna

Has anyone compared the the AVM50v with the D2v? I am assuming your comparison was with the older version of the AVM 50 vs the D2v.


----------



## jayray

I would assume that the diff I was describing were attributable to the core diff b/t these two models. Decoding of hd formats is irrelevent given this can be done in the players and therefore I could hear this with my AVM50. Since ARC is implemented across all platforms in the same way, again diff could only be due to things such as 24/192 upsampling and oversampling on all output channels and the quality of parts in each model. This is just speculation on my part, but then what else could make this diff?

John


----------



## scanido

I really can't decide on either the AVM50 and D2. The price difference is a cool $2000!


My priority is Sound Quality as the two models seem to have a rich feature set. My system comprices B&W 803S, HTM3S and SCMS, and a Mac 205 would the AVM50 be the limiting factor in my system? Would i be hearing the difference the D2 offers?


I really dont have any need for the video processing as i will sending the source output of my components directly to my Pioneer plasma.


----------



## jayray

I am not familiar with your equipment. Mine is listed above, so if your's is equivalent then yes it will be noticeablemm, particularly the sound. As you upgrade speakers the D2 would continue to improve the sound. After all what is the potential of these preamps? It is like video cards in computers. They will improve performance as the processor does. I see these preamps in a similar light.

John


----------



## jayray

One other thing I noticed on the D2V. When pressing select, when 24/192 comes up as the output, it says 24/192 Digital Muted. I thought this meant no 24/192. However Nick assured me that this is confusing for many and might be taken out with later firmware. Not sure if this was the case with the D2.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It means the digital audio output (as to a digital tape recorder) is muted due to copy protection.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15749126
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I can't remember, it has been a long time, whether ARC has to be uploaded after a firmware update. I got ARC right after 1.33 came out. I figure some more updates will come out for the upgrades.
> 
> As well I couldn't see much of a diff with the new video processor. I haven't tried any torture tests but from limited viewing today, nothing is obvious.
> 
> John



I don't think you are supposed to have to reload ARC, but I always do. Save User Settings, Reload Factory Defaults, do the firmware install, Reload Saved User Settings, Upload prior ARC results, enjoy.


I suspect the video improvements, if any, will be more subtle than the audio.

--Bob


----------



## dcrna




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15749301
> 
> 
> I would assume that the diff I was describing were attributable to the core diff b/t these two models. Decoding of hd formats is irrelevent given this can be done in the players and therefore I could hear this with my AVM50. Since ARC is implemented across all platforms in the same way, again diff could only be due to things such as 24/192 upsampling and oversampling on all output channels and the quality of parts in each model. This is just speculation on my part, but then what else could make this diff?
> 
> John



Do they not both have the same new DSPs?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dcrna* /forum/post/15749764
> 
> 
> Do they not both have the same new DSPs?



That's not known. We know they both have new DSPs but we don't know if the new DSP board for the AVM 50v is the same as the new DSP board for the D2v.


Contrast with the Video/HDMI board, which is identical for the two units.


Here's what we think we know about the differences between the units:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...e#post15546653 


--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15747614
> 
> 
> Some brave soul with a new D2v or AVM 50v, and a Blu-Ray player that bitstreams DTS-HD MA, needs to test that the decoding in the new Anthem units doesn't suffer from the now infamous "DTS-HD MA BOMB!"
> 
> 
> This is a scary loud explosion of sound due to a software error in early DTS-HD MA decoding systems. It is generated only by certain DTS-HD MA discs. The error can only occur in the device doing the decoding The Onkyo and Yamaha decoding receivers got bit with this big time last year. (All of which have since had firmware updates eliminating the BOMB.) For example, the PS3 player does not exhibit this error and so it is perfectly safe to play even the known problem discs with the PS3 decoding the DTS-HD MA tracks and sending HDMI LPCM to the Anthems.
> 
> 
> The following thread details the BOMB and gives example time codes from discs known to trigger this failure:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1008620
> 
> *WARNING: This bug, if it exists, results in sound blasts loud enough to damage speakers. I recommend you test this using headphones (the bug, if it exists, should still be present in the stereo down mix sent to the headphones) and/or with main volume turned way down to start.*
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> On a much safer plane, we also need some tests to confirm that lip-sync isn't showing any problems for folks who choose to bitstream TrueHD or DTS-HD MA to the new Anthems.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob.. just to be fair and balanced, there have been no reports of anyone blowing speakers due to the "bomb."










In speaking with DTS, unless you were up way past reference, it shouldn't be a concern... however, your nerves might end up a little frayed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/15749362
> 
> 
> I really can't decide on either the AVM50 and D2. The price difference is a cool $2000!
> 
> 
> My priority is Sound Quality as the two models seem to have a rich feature set. My system comprices B&W 803S, HTM3S and SCMS, and a Mac 205 would the AVM50 be the limiting factor in my system? Would i be hearing the difference the D2 offers?
> 
> 
> I really dont have any need for the video processing as i will sending the source output of my components directly to my Pioneer plasma.



Both units may be overkill for you if you have no need for video. The video/HDMI board is likely the single most expensive replaceable part of either unit.


On the other hand, if you watch cable or satellite TV or standard DVDs, odds are there are things you would find quite wonderful in the Anthem's video processing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15749830
> 
> 
> Bob.. just to be fair and balanced, there have been no reports of anyone blowing speakers due to the "bomb."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In speaking with DTS, unless you were up way past reference, it shouldn't be a concern... however, your nerves might end up a little frayed.



Fair enough. However I stand by my recommendation that the first posters testing this in the new Anthems should take care to do it at low volume and/or through headphones. Call it an abundance of caution.










--Bob


----------



## dcrna

I was just wondering what the major differences were. Looking at the downloadable pdf, the specs are identical as far as I can tell.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15747110
> 
> 
> The problem only exists if you attempt to convert 480i/60 or 1080i/60 content to 1080p/24 output.
> 
> 
> If you already have 1080p/24 content, as from a Blu-Ray movie, you can get perfect 1080p/24 output now either by selecting a Video Output configuration you have defined to use 1080p/24 or by using the Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock feature combined with a 1080p/60 Video Output configuration.
> 
> 
> You'll want a Radio Shack SPL meter and some calibration DVD or Blu-Ray discs of course.
> 
> 
> Here's the link on that boom mic stand I like:
> 
> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...icrophone.html
> 
> 
> ETA: You'll need a Windows XP or Vista computer with a serial port for doing ARC setup. I use Windows XP Pro running in the Bootcamp environment on an Apple MacBook for this. If your computer doesn't have a serial port, you can use the Keyspan USA-19HS USB to Serial adapter (available from Amazon), or you could insert a PC-card that provides a serial port. A decent length serial cable itself is now included in the accessories with the Anthem.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks! Just ordered the boom and the keyspan (from newegg instead of amazon, just personal preference). I have a Vista laptop, so should be good there. And I already have a couple SPL meters and BluRay/DVD calibration discs, so also good there.


Now I just wait! Is it in yet? Is it in yet? Now? How about now?


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15746152
> 
> 
> He guys, I'm thinking of getting a new bluray player. I watch a lot of movies. Between four and six a week! I also have a 13 month old son so unfortunately most of my movie viewing is done between -30dB and -25dB. I know, all that power and I rarely get to drop the hammer. Well that's not true. My wife will take him out shopping with her and I'll take the Bryston/D2 for a spin.
> 
> 
> So the reason I'm considering a bluray player is the PS3's fan is loud at low volume. That's the only reason but it's a reason in my opinion. Other than that I love the PS3. It players everything!
> 
> 
> So what would you suggest? I'm thinking of a lower end Panasonic BD55??? Seeing as the D2 does all the heavy lifting.



I got a PS3 just before Christmas and you don't know it's on.


Go with Bob's suggestion - try a new one, I still think it's the best option on the market bar none.


----------



## flavorguy

Well my dealer called and I'm scheduled to have my AVM50v installed on Wednesday.


My Blue Ray player is a Denon 3800BDCI which apparently has very good DAC's and can decode all of the new surround formats.


Audio - Should I run the audio from the 3800's analog outs or use digital coax and let the AVM50v do the audio decoding? Do I hook up both runs for ability to A/B compare?


Blu Ray Video - HDMI thru the Anthem or continue to feed my Ruby (1080P/60 native) directly from the player?


Balanced vs Unbalanced hook up between the AVM50v and my Anthem MCA50 amp?


Flavorguy


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15751689
> 
> 
> Well my dealer called and I'm scheduled to have my AVM50v installed on Wednesday.
> 
> 
> My Blue Ray player is a Denon 3800BDCI which apparently has very good DAC's and can decode all of the new surround formats.
> 
> 
> Audio - Should I run the audio from the 3800's analog outs or use digital coax and let the AVM50v do the audio decoding? Do I hook up both runs for ability to A/B compare?
> 
> 
> Blu Ray Video - HDMI thru the Anthem or continue to feed my Ruby (1080P/60 native) directly from the player?
> 
> 
> Balanced vs Unbalanced hook up between the AVM50v and my Anthem MCA50 amp?
> 
> 
> Flavorguy


*Answers are here*


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15751689
> 
> 
> Well my dealer called and I'm scheduled to have my AVM50v installed on Wednesday.
> 
> 
> My Blue Ray player is a Denon 3800BDCI which apparently has very good DAC's and can decode all of the new surround formats.
> 
> 
> Audio - Should I run the audio from the 3800's analog outs or use digital coax and let the AVM50v do the audio decoding? Do I hook up both runs for ability to A/B compare?



I'd go from the 3800 to the 50v via HDMI and let the 50v do the decoding.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15751689
> 
> 
> Blu Ray Video - HDMI thru the Anthem or continue to feed my Ruby (1080P/60 native) directly from the player?



Again I'd go HDMI to the 50v and let the 50v's video processor work it's magic.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15751689
> 
> 
> Balanced vs Unbalanced hook up between the AVM50v and my Anthem MCA50 amp?



I believe the consensus is either will do. I went Balanced.


If you're going to drop 5K on a processor you have to use it. Why would you even consider using the dac's in the 3800 and the video processor in the Ruby? If you do that you really won't be using the 50v. In my opinion I'd let the 50v do all the heavy lifting. Did you just buy the 3800? Did you pick it up along with the 50v? If so take it back and get a PS3. You really don't need a 1000.00+ BD player now that you have the 50v. 99% of the features available in the 3800 won't be used because the 50v will do it better.


I hope this helps.










And Bob (or anyone), if I'm off base anywhere please correct me.


I'm still but a young Padawon who is just trying to help!


----------



## jayray

Tried a 7.1 DTS-MA disc and the display on D2V read 7.1 PCM. So far so good.

John


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15752672
> 
> 
> Tried a 7.1 DTS-MA disc and the display on D2V read 7.1 PCM. So far so good.
> 
> John



You must be getting sick of cookies! Perhaps Bob should start handing out beers!


----------



## dcrna

My dealer will be getting the AVM-50v in next week. He said MSRP was $5499. I am really considering getting one of these. Sounds crazy, but I need a silver processor to match everything else in my system which is out in the open. If the D2v came in silver..........I would get it. Just hope that I am not giving up too much with the AVM-50 over the D2v. Like I said before, the spec sheets are the same for both units.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15752285
> 
> 
> And Bob (or anyone), if I'm off base anywhere please correct me.



You have chosen wisely, grasshopper. (Have we mixed enough show references now?)


I'd only add that it doesn't hurt to hook up analog inputs as well if you are the sort that likes to play around and do your own comparisons. But odds are you'll end up only using the HDMI connection.


One exception is cable/satellite TV set top boxes where you might want to try optical/coax digital audio even when you are using HDMI for video to avoid the extra couple seconds delay for audio to start after video starts when you get a new HDMI handshake due to changing output resolutions from the set top box.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15752796
> 
> 
> You must be getting sick of cookies! Perhaps Bob should start handing out beers!



Beer goes AWFUL with cookies!


Jayray, have another cookie! Get them while they're still warm folks!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dcrna* /forum/post/15753114
> 
> 
> My dealer will be getting the AVM-50v in next week. He said MSRP was $5499. I am really considering getting one of these. Sounds crazy, but I need a silver processor to match everything else in my system which is out in the open. If the D2v came in silver..........I would get it. Just hope that I am not giving up too much with the AVM-50 over the D2v. Like I said before, the spec sheets are the same for both units.



Unfortunately you can't capture the sort of audio component differences in the D2v vs. the AVM 50v in spec sheets.


That said, the AVM 50v is no slouch by any means, and I expect you'll just love it all to heck!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15750378
> 
> 
> Now I just wait! Is it in yet? Is it in yet? Now? How about now?



A watched delivery truck never boils...










--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15753673
> 
> 
> Beer goes AWFUL with cookies!
> 
> --Bob



It depends on how many beers you have had.....


I noticed that in the ADC / AUDIO OUTPUT setup that the Copy Sur to Rears and the Reverse Sur/Rears is no longer an option on the D2v.


I used to use the Reverse function, but discoverd it did not work as advertised (some programming bugs) and Nick had told me they were going to discontinue it.


Why did they remove the copy surround to rears, or do we now just have to choose the correct processing mode for this to be automatic?


On another note - my subwoofer shot craps last night. I found out that once you have downloaded the ARC setting to the D2 you can't switch the subwoofer to off in the setup. I guess I will have to do it in the ARC software and re-download the settings...I did not have my laptop at home last night to try this.


Thank you,


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15753788
> 
> 
> It depends on how many beers you have had.....
> 
> 
> I noticed that in the ADC / AUDIO OUTPUT setup that the Copy Sur to Rears and the Reverse Sur/Rears is no longer an option on the D2v.
> 
> 
> I used to use the Reverse function, but discoverd it did not work as advertised (some programming bugs) and Nick had told me they were going to discontinue it.
> 
> 
> Why did they remove the copy surround to rears, or do we now just have to choose the correct processing mode for this to be automatic?
> 
> 
> On another note - my subwoofer shot craps last night. I found out that once you have downloaded the ARC setting to the D2 you can't switch the subwoofer to off in the setup. I guess I will have to do it in the ARC software and re-download the settings...I did not have my laptop at home last night to try this.
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> Mike



Good catch! I hadn't noticed that change in the new manuals.


I don't believe there is an audio mode that will do what Copy Surround to Rears used to do. Of course for parties you can use Stereo All mode with 2 channel content to get both your side and rear surrounds more into the act.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I'm not trying to get more cookies by reporting individual observations







However, TrueHD bitstreamed out of XA2 shows DolbyHD on display.To update on thumping sound, so far this only happens with XA1 hddvd player, when fast forwarding or stopping play. Slight popping sound out of rt. side channel also heard intermittently. Can be muted out. PS3 shows none of this behaviour. Will email Nick. Also noticed in Info display in video processor menu, when playing a lossless or lossy track, it now displays which you are currently getting. Didn't notice this with AVM50 menu.

John


----------



## flavorguy

[


> Quote:
> QUOTE=~Ohdee~;15752285]I'd go from the 3800 to the 50v via HDMI and let the 50v do the decoding.
> 
> 
> Again I'd go HDMI to the 50v and let the 50v's video processor work it's magic.
> 
> 
> I believe the consensus is either will do. I went Balanced.
> 
> 
> If you're going to drop 5K on a processor you have to use it. Why would you even consider using the dac's in the 3800 and the video processor in the Ruby? If you do that you really won't be using the 50v. In my opinion I'd let the 50v do all the heavy lifting. Did you just buy the 3800? Did you pick it up along with the 50v? If so take it back and get a PS3. You really don't need a 1000.00+ BD player now that you have the 50v. 99% of the features available in the 3800 won't be used because the 50v will do it better.
> 
> 
> I hope this helps.



Actually, I read these boards and then buy "the next best thing" before I realize what I've gotten myself into.... you should see my cast off pile...


I picked up the 3800BDCI last March. At that time I wasn't looking into upgrading my processor. The reason I decided to go with the AVM50v was really reading about everyone's results with the ARC. My room is an acoustic mess with windows, pocket doors, and an open archway at the very end so I can't wait to see how ARC corrects this ... I originally looked into the AVM40 w/ ARC, but I was given a price on a new AVM50v that was within a few hundred dollars of the AVM40 which is why I'm at this point...


I will probably grab the new Oppo Universal Bluray player after it's released and then put the Denon piece on Audiogon or Ebay...


Thanks for the advice ... now back to the shadows...


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15753773
> 
> 
> A watched delivery truck never boils...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I know the feeling as well.


I have lots of shiny new cables but nothing to plug them in to.........


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15755073
> 
> 
> I know the feeling as well.
> 
> 
> I have lots of shiny new cables but nothing to plug them in to.........


----------



## TREVLAN

Hey guys, At work needed a quick answer. I reran the new ARC f/w. For my AVM50.

My sub which in the past was set at 120hrz is sitting at 60hrz. Should I leave it or change this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/15755993
> 
> 
> Hey guys, At work needed a quick answer. I reran the new ARC f/w. For my AVM50.
> 
> My sub which in the past was set at 120hrz is sitting at 60hrz. Should I leave it or change this?



Leave it. This is normal.


The new ARC allows the Room Correction "cutoffs" (shown in the Targets window) to differ from the Bass Management crossovers (shown in Setup > Speaker Configuration after the Upload). This extra degree of freedom allows the new ARC to come up with superior solutions. The older ARC was limited to using the same value for both of these which often resulted in the Sub crossover being set a bit higher than optimal.


Of course you can open your ARC results file in Advanced mode and look at the charts if you want to confirm there are really no problems.

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

thx bob, I will post my charts tonight as I am also getting almost all my speakers jumping in the 10 and up frequency, near the end of the charts, lets say the db is 70 going across, then near the end where it used to dip it now jumps up to 75-80db. But again I will post charts for you to understand.


ITS FRIDAY. see you guys soon.


----------



## yacht422

walt here.

been offline for awhile - question on d2 / arc.

i am at 1.33 and 1.25 arc.

still the current software for the non-v2?


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15757664
> 
> 
> walt here.
> 
> been offline for awhile - question on d2 / arc.
> 
> i am at 1.33 and 1.25 arc.
> 
> still the current software for the non-v2?



Walt,


ARC is now at 2.01. Thoughts are that it may provide a smoother response in the higher frequencies over 1.25.


Buddy


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Also an improved bass solution. Definitely time to upgrade to ARC V2.0.1. Although the install notes say you can use your old V1.2.5 Measurements file, I recommend you plan on doing a fresh set of Measurements.


The firmware for the D2 is still V1.33. Nick tells me a V1.34 is in the works with some bug fixes that were delayed while getting the D2v out the door.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/15757741
> 
> 
> Walt,
> 
> 
> ARC is now at 2.01. Thoughts are that it may provide a smoother response in the higher frequencies over 1.25.
> 
> 
> Buddy



Nick told me that the new algorithims in 2.01 do in fact adress both the high and low freq. I have benefitted from both these changes in a big way. Try 2.01

so you to can enjoy the improvements.

John


----------



## yacht422

many thanks! the weekend is now update time!

best regards

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Folks over in the TV forums are in a frenzy over as-yet-unconfirmed reports that Pioneer is exiting the TV business and thus there may soon be no more Kuro plasma panels:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1117484 


Is nothing sacred?

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15758165
> 
> 
> Folks over in the TV forums are in a frenzy over as-yet-unconfirmed reports that Pioneer is exiting the TV business and thus there may soon be no more Kuro plasma panels:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1117484
> 
> 
> Is nothing sacred?
> 
> --Bob



More than a rumor...
http://news.cnet.com/8301-1001_3-10158724-92.html 


And more:
http://news.google.com/news?rls=com....ncl=1301727999


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15758165
> 
> 
> Folks over in the TV forums are in a frenzy over as-yet-unconfirmed reports that Pioneer is exiting the TV business and thus there may soon be no more Kuro plasma panels:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1117484
> 
> 
> Is nothing sacred?
> 
> --Bob



Good thing I just got my Kuro Elite on a swinging deal....


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/15758477
> 
> 
> Good thing I just got my Kuro Elite on a swinging deal....



You may not feel that way if Pioneer goes belly up, which, at this point, would seem to be a possibility.


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/15758585
> 
> 
> You may not feel that way if Pioneer goes belly up, which, at this point, would seem to be a possibility.



I doubt it, why would I regret buying the best tv on the market. Pioneer display division maybe belly-up, but I would think the company as a whole is still intact, thus leading me to believe that they would still honor warranty claims.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/15758652
> 
> 
> I doubt it, why would I regret buying the best tv on the market. Pioneer display division maybe belly-up, but I would think the company as a whole is still intact, thus leading me to believe that they would still honor warranty claims.



Except you probably could have gotten an even better deal... Now...


----------



## dweltman

My D2V has been loaded into my system.


I don't know if someone has addressed this yet, but I did want to verify that with my 80G PS3 playing a Multichannel SACD, the D2V does indicate it is receiving a 176/24 input


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Great! That's our first report confirming higher than 96KHz input.


And that's worth a cookie!










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15759051
> 
> 
> Except you probably could have gotten an even better deal... Now...



Unless the last remaining Kuros go UP in price...










--Bob


----------



## dweltman

Bob:


Since I got a new ARC with a new microphone, should I uninstall my current ARC before installing the files that came with the D2V? Or do you think I can do the new install over the old one?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If you've already installed ARC V2.0.1 I believe you'll have to uninstall it first before the installer on the CD will do it's thing.


Or even more simply just manually copy the two licensing/calibration files -- the ones with names made out of serial numbers -- from the CD to the folder in Program Files containing the installed ARC application.


If you have not yet installed ARC V2.0.1, the installer on the CD will install the new version, and the two license files, on top of the old version.


ETA: You can uninstall ARC via Windows Add/Remove programs. This still leaves your old pair of licensing/calibration files in the Anthem folder in Program Files, but that's no problem. You can just leave them there. The new pair will join them when you install the new stuff.


ETA 2: This is my Windows Paranoia showing, but I also recommend you reboot Windows each time you finish uninstalling something, each time you install something, and each time you change any drivers. I.e., if you decide to uninstall ARC, reboot afterwards. Then after you install ARC afresh, reboot again. Come to that, I also reboot BEFORE I do any event like that to make sure I've got Windows in a state freshly minted from a new reboot before doing anything that will alter its software mix. I'm really getting much more blithe, though. I used to draw a chalk pentagram around the Windows PC as well.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/15759261
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Since I got a new ARC with a new microphone, should I uninstall my current ARC before installing the files that came with the D2V? Or do you think I can do the new install over the old one?



Remember not to use previous measurement files. You need to remeasure.

John


----------



## bluemark81

I'm a bit confused in reading the description for scale output in the manual.


If I have a source with a native output of 1080p (PS3) and my TV also is a 1080p display, should I have "no scaling" selected?


What about when using a Satellite signal which I have set to 1080i output within the satellite receiver and 16 x 9. What do I then set the scale output to?


Thanks,


----------



## TREVLAN

bob,


ok here are my mesurments. Wierd, remeber I told you ARC uploaded 60hrz for the sub, well the charts show it should be 120hrz??? also my center channel sounds sooo muddy and muffled when people speak.


----------



## TeeBo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15753833
> 
> 
> Good catch! I hadn't noticed that change in the new manuals.
> 
> 
> I don't believe there is an audio mode that will do what Copy Surround to Rears used to do. Of course for parties you can use Stereo All mode with 2 channel content to get both your side and rear surrounds more into the act.
> 
> --Bob




I am going to put out for a D2v shortly to replace my ancient IR RDC-7 but, one of the things I thought was great about the D2 was the ability to move the side surrounds to the rears for 5.1 music SACDs and DVD-As. I do this today the old fashioned way by running the analog cables for the sides to the rear surround inputs, since the RDC-7 has analog 7.1 inputs.


It sounds like I will lose the ability to route side surrounds to the rear with the D2v. Could someone please clarify this?


Looking forward to being a cool kid again.










Tim


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15761199
> 
> 
> I'm a bit confused in reading the description for scale output in the manual.
> 
> 
> If I have a source with a native output of 1080p (PS3) and my TV also is a 1080p display, should I have "no scaling" selected?
> 
> 
> What about when using a Satellite signal which I have set to 1080i output within the satellite receiver and 16 x 9. What do I then set the scale output to?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



I would set the satellite to native rather than 1080i for all channels and let the Anthem do all the work since it is undoubtebly a much better processor than the satellite box. I know that this means some delays as you switch between programming with different resolutions, but I think the PQ is worth those delays.


----------



## bluemark81

I would if I could, but I only have the following choices: 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i.


Where the majority of the programming I watch is broadcast in 1080i, I figured it was the best setting to set the SAT receiver at.


My SAT is a Bell 9242 (Same as Dishnet's 622 or 722?)


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15761611
> 
> 
> I would if I could, but I only have the following choices: 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i.
> 
> 
> Where the majority of the programming I watch is broadcast in 1080i, I figured it was the best setting to set the SAT receiver at.
> 
> 
> My SAT is a Bell 9242 (Same as Dishnet's 622 or 722?)



My apologies, I though most satellite boxes allowed native output. If not I would probably make the same compromise as you and output at 1080i and let the Anthem do the de-interlacing so your TV can input at 1080p.


In terms of scaling the picture to fit the screen (which I think is your actual question - again my apologies for not reading it properly) I believe that has to be done using custom scaling, for instance a letterbox within a 480i/p picture to fit the screen. What has to be done is not unique to the Anthem video scaler (old or new), just the way it probably does it internally and how you implement it might be, and how large the black bars or picture distortion will be depending on the letterbox dimensions within the 480 frame.


I am stepping a little outside my experience here since I use an external video processor (DVDO) with a D1 so I am sure someone will step in and correct me if I am wrong.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TeeBo* /forum/post/15761459
> 
> 
> I am going to put out for a D2v shortly to replace my ancient IR RDC-7 but, one of the things I thought was great about the D2 was the ability to move the side surrounds to the rears for 5.1 music SACDs and DVD-As. I do this today the old fashioned way by running the analog cables for the sides to the rear surround inputs, since the RDC-7 has analog 7.1 inputs.
> 
> 
> It sounds like I will lose the ability to route side surrounds to the rear with the D2v. Could someone please clarify this?
> 
> 
> Looking forward to being a cool kid again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tim



You are correct Anthem is taking that out of the D2v. I was not happy about it, but as was currently implemented in the D2 the programming was messed up and Anthem made the decision to spend their programming time on other things and just eliminate the function.


I am with you, the on thing that the D2v SHOULD have added was a 7.1 analog input. Anthem just felt that most people were going to HDMI and with the current HDMI standards on the V2 you can get 7.1 via HDMI.


I was not happy about the decision, but the positives of the D2v outweigh this one negative.


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15761199
> 
> 
> I'm a bit confused in reading the description for scale output in the manual.
> 
> 
> If I have a source with a native output of 1080p (PS3) and my TV also is a 1080p display, should I have "no scaling" selected?
> 
> 
> What about when using a Satellite signal which I have set to 1080i output within the satellite receiver and 16 x 9. What do I then set the scale output to?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



The Video Source Adjust > Scale Out > Zoom and No Scale options are for testing and setup ONLY. Do not use them for normal viewing.


The thing to keep in mind is that the operation of Scale Out has to do with conversion of SHAPES rather than conversion of resolution. The input video (as adjusted by any Crop Input setting you apply) has a particular rectangular shape. The output video, as specified by the resolution setting in Setup > Video Output, has its own rectangular shape. The Anthem adjusts the (possibly cropped) input video so that it fits entirely into the output video. If both shapes are 16:9 (for example), then there is no work for Scale Out to do regardless of which of the three other settings (Anamorphic, Letter/Pillar Box, or Panoramic) you happen to select. But if the shapes are different then either the horizontal or the vertical dimension will be "short" when the other dimension "just fits" into the output.


Scale Out > Letter/Pillar Box compares the two shapes to decide which direction (if either) is "short" and then pads that short direction with letter box or pillar box bars to make it "just fit" the output shape. For example a 4:3 input shape is padded with pillar box bars on the left and right to just fit a 16:9 output shape. The image is not distorted, but it it doesn't fill the screen from left to right.


Scale Out > Anamorphic, on the other hand, uniformly stretches the short direction to "just fit" the output shape. For example a 4:3 image is uniformly stretched across the left/right direction to just fit a 16:9 output shape. The image is distorted -- circles now look like wide ovals -- and the distortion is uniform across the image. The image fills the screen.


Scale Out > Panoramic also stretches the short direction but does so in a non-uniform fashion. More stretching occurs near the edges of the short dimension than near the center. This leaves the center of the image less distorted.


You'll find much more detail on this, as well as a description of how Crop Input settings fit into all this, in the Fun With Custom Cropping & Scaling links collected in the first post of this thread.


---------------------------------------------------------


The simple answer is that you will normally want to use Scale Out > Letter Pillar Box so that your imaging is not distorted. However, some devices do not properly identify whether the content they are playing is 4:3 or 16:9. In that case you may need to choose Scale Out > Anamorphic to get the correct result. EXAMPLE: An SD-DVD player plays an "anamorphic" or "enhanced for 16:9 TVs" wide screen movie but tells the Anthem it is actually 4:3 content. If you use Letter/Pillar box you will get unnecessary pillar box bars and the movie will appear squeezed horizontally. Use Anamorphic and it will display correctly. Since most SD-DVD movies you will view these days are anamorphic wide screen, you should probably leave the Anamorphic setting as your default for that SD-DVD player input, and only switch to Letter/Pillar Box when you need it (i.e., when playing real 4:3 movie or TV show discs).


----------------------------------------------------------


Also keep in mind that many movies are "wider than wide screen". That is they are rectangles wider than a 16:9 shape. The content on disc, or broadcast on TV, has to be no wider than a 16:9 shape due to the specs for these formats. That means the studio or TV station has to pad the movie with letter box bars top and bottom to fit a 16:9 shape vertically. These letter box bars are IN THE CONTENT ALREADY -- they are not something added by the player or by the Anthem. So they will show on screen even if you are using the Anamorphic setting.


If you want to get rid of them you can use a Custom Crop Input setting to extract the movie out of that padding. Folks who are doing 2.35 Constant Image Height projection setups will do that. Again, see the links in the first post for details.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TeeBo* /forum/post/15761459
> 
> 
> I am going to put out for a D2v shortly to replace my ancient IR RDC-7 but, one of the things I thought was great about the D2 was the ability to move the side surrounds to the rears for 5.1 music SACDs and DVD-As. I do this today the old fashioned way by running the analog cables for the sides to the rear surround inputs, since the RDC-7 has analog 7.1 inputs.
> 
> 
> It sounds like I will lose the ability to route side surrounds to the rear with the D2v. Could someone please clarify this?
> 
> 
> Looking forward to being a cool kid again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tim



Tim, since this is a new change, you will need to email Anthem tech support (link in the first post of this thread) for clarification. It appears that Anthem has indeed removed this feature in the new firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v. I don't know if they intend to add something different to replace it.


There have been several reports that this feature was broken in the old firmware for the D2 and AVM 50 units, so it may have been withdrawn until they can get around to fixing it, or it may have been withdrawn permanently. I don't know.


Please do report back what they tell you.

--Bob


----------



## V7Sport73

Well folks, just to let you know that my brand new Anthem D2V has finally arrived. I picked it up last night at the dealer's store. I brought it home thinking I'd wait unit the morning to hook it up. But I just had to try it out. Before I knew it I was plugging in all the connections trying not to scratch anything. That was the easy part. Learning how to operate this thing is a different story. My unit came with the 2.02 software. I'm totally new to using this product. I'm currently studying my 100+ page manual that I down loaded off Anthem's website. I purchased this unit because of its great reviews on audio reproduction. The video side was not as important to me as the audio. So far I'm pleased. I've watched my first movie last night. The movie we watched was The Notebook (romance). Not much of a sound track but I thought a good love story was a great way to smooth things over with the wife. She always gives me grief every time a new piece of gear shows up. I've got a long way to go before I get everything dialed in. So far, the sound from the unit is excellent. I expect it to be much better once everything is set up correctly.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/15761288
> 
> 
> bob,
> 
> 
> ok here are my mesurments. Wierd, remeber I told you ARC uploaded 60hrz for the sub, well the charts show it should be 120hrz??? also my center channel sounds sooo muddy and muffled when people speak.



Actually the charts are showing that the bass management crossover for the sub really *IS* at 60Hz, but the roll off has been made shallower than normal by ARC applying a higher room correction "cutoff" of 120Hz on top of that.


Again, what's shown in the Targets window are the room correction "cutoffs". These are distinct from the bass management crossovers uploaded into the Setup menu.


How do I know the crossover is at 60Hz? Look at one of the main speaker curves to find what I've been calling the basic volume level that ARC is targeting for your setup. That's the flat part of the Target curve to the right of the Room Gain hump near the crossovers. In your case that's about 74dB.


Now look for the frequency at which the Target curve for the subwoofer drops down below that basic volume level. That's about 60Hz. That's where the bass management cross over roll off is starting to be applied. (Actually it looks more like 70Hz on this chart, but close enough for explanation.)


--------------------------------------------


Now there's nothing really wrong with the Center speaker chart to explain what you are hearing, so my first suggestion is that you go into the Setup menu and double check that things are set up correctly. In particular, make sure you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON for every input source. If you are using overlayed input definitions (e.g., DVD1 vs. DVD2) check each of them.


Next, think carefully about whether you might have done something to screw up the ARC results after you Uploaded them. For example, if you did a Reload Saved User Settings after completing the ARC Upload then you may have overwritten the crossovers and speaker volume trims that ARC Uploaded with old values you happen to have had saved in that memory. If you think that is a possibility, just re-open your ARC results file in Advanced mode and redo the Upload. After the Upload, check around in the Setup menu to see that things look OK and then Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the Uploaded values into those memories.


If none of that produces an answer, then think back about how you did your Measurements to begin with. Was there background noise that you noticed but ARC didn't complain about? Did you pay careful attention to the mic positioning instructions in section 3.15 of the manual? Either of these could have screwed up the data ARC is working with.


The mic should be pointed straight up, with the tip positioned at seated ear height. Do not position the tip too close to any reflective surface (wall or seat back for example). If necessary raise the tip a few inches to clear a seat back or use a different position about a foot closer to the screen. The #1 position must be at the center of your preferred seating. Subsequent positions must alternate either side of center. No two positions, whether or not sequential, should be closer than 24 inches apart from each other.


----------------------------------------------------


You didn't include the chart for your LF/RF speakers, but for the ones you included the only thing I would suggest is that you raise the Max EQ Frequency value in the Targets window and do a re-Calculation and re-Upload. By default ARC only corrects up to 5KHz. Your Measurements look good enough that I think you can push that up somewhere between 15KHz and the max allowed value of 20KHz. That will clean up the higher frequencies.


Do a few calculations at different values up there checking to make sure that raising that value does not result in errors cropping up at the lower frequencies. Start at 20KHz to see the worst the lower frequencies can possibly get, and if you see problems, then back off below 20KHz until you find a nice compromise setting. Then Upload that and give it a listen.


Now I don't think this is the fix for your "muddy" center speaker. I think it's more likely to be one of the "operator error" problems I talked about above.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *V7Sport73* /forum/post/15762479
> 
> 
> Well folks, just to let you know that my brand new Anthem D2V has finally arrived. I picked it up last night at the dealer's store. I brought it home thinking I'd wait unit the morning to hook it up. But I just had to try it out. Before I knew it I was plugging in all the connections trying not to scratch anything. That was the easy part. Learning how to operate this thing is a different story. My unit came with the 2.02 software. I'm totally new to using this product. I'm currently studying my 100+ page manual that I down loaded off Anthem's website. I purchased this unit because of its great reviews on audio reproduction. The video side was not as important to me as the audio. So far I'm pleased. I've watched my first movie last night. The movie we watched was The Notebook (romance). Not much of a sound track but I thought a good love story was a great way to smooth things over with the wife. She always gives me grief every time a new piece of gear shows up. I've got a long way to go before I get everything dialed in. So far, the sound from the unit is excellent. I expect it to be much better once everything is set up correctly.



Welcome to the cool kids thread!


Be sure to look through the post links collected in the first post of this thread. Lots of useful info in there for newbies.


For video setup, start with the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post.

--Bob


----------



## facedogg

All -- I've been lurking on this thread for almost a year now and have finally decided to get the ARC-1 for my avm-50. First, thanks to everyone on here that has provided all the info to convince me to get this! After getting the new processor installed in my avm-50 and getting home to run the tests, I ran into a slight issue...the AnthemRoomCorrection software says it found a microphone with serial 1234567...but that is not close to the number on the sticker on the mic, nor is it the same amount of digits :-( Is it safe to assume that my mic never got a serial number programmed into it? Has anyone had this issue? For reference, I'm running ARC v 2.0.1. Thanks in advance!


----------



## V7Sport73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15762621
> 
> 
> Welcome to the cool kids thread!
> 
> 
> Be sure to look through the post links collected in the first post of this thread. Lots of useful info in there for newbies.
> 
> 
> For video setup, start with the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I'm sure I'll have lots of questions. But I'll do my homework for now.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *V7Sport73* /forum/post/15762479
> 
> 
> Well folks, just to let you know that my brand new Anthem D2V has finally arrived. I picked it up last night at the dealer's store. I brought it home thinking I'd wait unit the morning to hook it up. But I just had to try it out.



For the COOL KIDS CLUB


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facedogg* /forum/post/15762801
> 
> 
> All -- I've been lurking on this thread for almost a year now and have finally decided to get the ARC-1 for my avm-50. First, thanks to everyone on here that has provided all the info to convince me to get this! After getting the new processor installed in my avm-50 and getting home to run the tests, I ran into a slight issue...the AnthemRoomCorrection software says it found a microphone with serial 1234567...but that is not close to the number on the sticker on the mic, nor is it the same amount of digits :-( Is it safe to assume that my mic never got a serial number programmed into it? Has anyone had this issue? For reference, I'm running ARC v 2.0.1. Thanks in advance!



Actually it is reporting the serial number of your AVM 50/ARC unit, not the mic. There is no serial number encoded in the mic -- just the sticky label.


To see the serial number of your AVM 50/ARC, press Select repeatedly on the remote. The serial number is displayed as part of the last set of info displayed before it rolls over and starts again.


When you install the ARC V2.0.1 software on your windows PC, two licensing/calibration files get placed in the Anthem folder (in Windows Program Files) along with the ARC application itself. Their names are made up of numbers -- the serial number of your AVM 50/ARC and the serial number of your ARC mic. If the pair of files installed in there have the correct names (matching the serial numbers of your unit and mic) then you are good to go.


ETA: One other thing to confirm is that after the ARC hardware was added to your AVM 50 you need to re-install the firmware in the AVM 50. The current version is V1.33. You need to do this even if you already had V1.33 in there before making that hardware change. This is necessary so that the firmware configures itself properly for the ARC hardware you have just added. Your dealer should have done this for you after he put in the ARC hardware. If your unit turns on by saying it is an "AVM 50/ARC" rather than just an "AVM 50" you are good to go.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm surprised we haven't had our first post yet saying someone has taken delivery of a new AVM 50v. Remember, there's a warm fresh yummy cookie awaiting the first person who powers up a new AVM 50v and reports which firmware came factory installed in it.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

hi, I need help fast, I tried to update my avm50 with 1.33 software from anthens site. Everything was going smoothly until wht i thought was the end of the download after about 15 minutes i got an error message and failure to complete. Now I can't reinstall. it finds my device but the avm50 and my laptop freezes. now when i power up avm 50 on the front display panel it reads" anthem avm 50 powering on" for the last 30 minutes. no picture display to my tv..... please help


----------



## facedogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15762848
> 
> 
> Actually it is reporting the serial number of your AVM 50/ARC unit, not the mic. There is no serial number encoded in the mic -- just the sticky label.
> 
> 
> To see the serial number of your AVM 50/ARC, press Select repeatedly on the remote. The serial number is displayed as part of the last set of info displayed before it rolls over and starts again.
> 
> 
> When you install the ARC V2.0.1 software on your windows PC, two licensing/calibration files get placed in the Anthem folder (in Windows Program Files) along with the ARC application itself. Their names are made up of numbers -- the serial number of your AVM 50/ARC and the serial number of your ARC mic. If the pair of files installed in there have the correct names (matching the serial numbers of your unit and mic) then you are good to go.
> 
> 
> ETA: One other thing to confirm is that after the ARC hardware was added to your AVM 50 you need to re-install the firmware in the AVM 50. The current version is V1.33. You need to do this even if you already had V1.33 in there before making that hardware change. This is necessary so that the firmware configures itself properly for the ARC hardware you have just added. Your dealer should have done this for you after he put in the ARC hardware. If your unit turns on by saying it is an "AVM 50/ARC" rather than just an "AVM 50" you are good to go.
> 
> --Bob



First, thanks for the quick reply...for as long as I've been wanting this, to not get to use it is frustrating, but all the help here is great!


I know this will sound odd, but before I ordered my arc upgrade, I repeatedly pushed select until the last menu displayed my 6 digit serial number, which was sent with my order to get the ARC-1. Now when I repeatedly hit select, the first display shows 'AVM 50 ARC v1.33' and has today's date and time below that. The last display shows 'MAIN SLEEP MODE' but I never get a Serial Number displayed. Thoughts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15762973
> 
> 
> hi, I need help fast, I tried to update my avm50 with 1.33 software from anthens site. Everything was going smoothly until wht i thought was the end of the download after about 15 minutes i got an error message and failure to complete. Now I can't reinstall. it finds my device but the avm50 and my laptop freezes. now when i power up avm 50 on the front display panel it reads" anthem avm 50 powering on" for the last 30 minutes. no picture display to my tv..... please help



The good news is that this problem is probably easy to fix.


The bad news is that you will likely have to wait till Monday to get it fixed.


Apparently whatever went wrong in your firmware install left the unit in an intermediate state where it can't accept a new install. Anthem Tech Support can give you access to a small Windows PC application called the Flash Eraser which will force your unit back into a state where you can redo the firmware install. It is on their password protected download page and they can give you access if you give them a call on Monday. They'll walk you through the process (it is easy).


-----------------------------------------


In the meantime it would be good to try to figure out what might have gone wrong this time. A few things to confirm: Prior to the firmware install you need to Reload Factory Defaults. If you have your configuration saved in Saved User and/or Installer Settings you can use that to restore your configuration after the firmware install completes.


In addition, there must be no powered HDMI connections while you are doing the firmware install. Many HDMI source and display devices leave their HDMI sockets powered even when they appear "off". I recommend you remove wall power from everything except the Anthem and your computer while doing a firmware install. This is safer than fiddling with the HDMI plugs themselves since HDMI plugs are delicate.


Next, there should be no other applications running on your computer while you are doing the firmware install.


Finally, you must make sure your laptop doesn't go into standby, sleep, power saver or the like during the firmware install. There are settings in Windows to turn that stuff off or you can just move the mouse every minute or so while the install is in progress to keep the computer live.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facedogg* /forum/post/15763010
> 
> 
> First, thanks for the quick reply...for as long as I've been wanting this, to not get to use it is frustrating, but all the help here is great!
> 
> 
> I know this will sound odd, but before I ordered my arc upgrade, I repeatedly pushed select until the last menu displayed my 6 digit serial number, which was sent with my order to get the ARC-1. Now when I repeatedly hit select, the first display shows 'AVM 50 ARC v1.33' and has today's date and time below that. The last display shows 'MAIN SLEEP MODE' but I never get a Serial Number displayed. Thoughts?



The serial number should come up on the next press of Select after "Sleep Mode" is displayed. What's happening in your case? Is it starting over again after "Sleep Mode"?


Are you using the Anthem remote? A programmable remote might have "key bounce" or the like. And of course you have to press Select without waiting too long or the display will just time out.


If you really can't get the serial number to display then something is definitely wrong. You will need to give Anthem tech support a call on Monday. I suspect they will instruct you to try a re-install of the V1.33 firmware. There is a small possibility that something got screwed up in the hardware when your ARC board was installed.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

thanks for the quick reply...

before the install i reload factory setting & unplugged all hdmi connections. the error appeared after verfing the download and message window popped up reading debug something failure. i can move thru setting on the avm50. source setup etc. the status button on the front display the new 1.33 version. also sounds thru speaker when a run test tones. but no imagine on my tv, on all devices (tv,bluray, and directv).... weird


----------



## facedogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15763115
> 
> 
> The serial number should come up on the next press of Select after "Sleep Mode" is displayed. What's happening in your case? Is it starting over again after "Sleep Mode"?
> 
> 
> Are you using the Anthem remote? A programmable remote might have "key bounce" or the like. And of course you have to press Select without waiting too long or the display will just time out.
> 
> 
> If you really can't get the serial number to display then something is definitely wrong. You will need to give Anthem tech support a call on Monday. I suspect they will instruct you to try a re-install of the V1.33 firmware. There is a small possibility that something got screwed up in the hardware when your ARC board was installed.
> 
> --Bob



You are correct, it starts over after sleep mode. I am using the Anthem remote that came with the avm-50, so we shouldn't be having the key bounce issue. While I patiently wait for monday to get here would it hurt to simply re-install 1.33 again?


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15763118
> 
> 
> thanks for the quick reply...
> 
> before the install i reload factory setting & unplugged all hdmi connections. the error appeared after verfing the download and message window popped up reading debug something failure. i can move thru setting on the avm50. source setup etc. the status button on the front display the new 1.33 version. also sounds thru speaker when a run test tones. but no imagine on my tv, on all devices (tv,bluray, and directv).... weird



If you can get into the Setup menu using the Front Panel display, try doing a Reload Factory Defaults.


If that works, turn off your HDMI stuff and try the firmware install again. But if it won't begin the re-install you will need to get the Flash Eraser program.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facedogg* /forum/post/15763171
> 
> 
> You are correct, it starts over after sleep mode. I am using the Anthem remote that came with the avm-50, so we shouldn't be having the key bounce issue. While I patiently wait for monday to get here would it hurt to simply re-install 1.33 again?
> 
> 
> Mike



I think a re-install of V1.33 now would be a good idea. This is a very odd problem. I can't recall any prior report like this.


The unit serial number is, of course, also on the back panel label. I take it the number ARC is reporting does not match your unit's serial number, right?

--Bob


----------



## facedogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15763186
> 
> 
> I think a re-install of V1.33 now would be a good idea. This is a very odd problem. I can't recall any prior report like this.
> 
> 
> The unit serial number is, of course, also on the back panel label. I take it the number ARC is reporting does not match your unit's serial number, right?
> 
> --Bob



You are correct, the serial number on the back of the unit (which matches the serial number in the file name of two files on the cd) is not 1234567. I'm guessing the software is not receiving a serial number from the unit, and therefore is reporting the default 1234567. I'll reinstall and report back my findings.


mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facedogg* /forum/post/15763310
> 
> 
> You are correct, the serial number on the back of the unit (which matches the serial number in the file name of two files on the cd) is not 1234567. I'm guessing the software is not receiving a serial number from the unit, and therefore is reporting the default 1234567. I'll reinstall and report back my findings.
> 
> 
> mike



Hah! I thought you had made up the "1234567" to keep from posting your real serial number in a public forum.


Yeah, something is screwed up. A re-install of V1.33 should be your next step. Follow all of the instructions and do it just like you are doing it for the first time.


If the re-install doesn't fix it, it may be that some cable didn't get re-seated properly when the new ARC board was installed. Don't fiddle inside the chassis yourself unless you are familiar with how to protect the electronics against static electricity discharge.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

Since I have had ARC V2.0.1, I have run it 2 times. Both times, I have had to run ARC twice, per measurement, to complete my measurements. It gets close to the end of the measurement process, and it just shuts down. I restart it and re-run it the second time, and I don't have any problems. It's not a serious problem; but, it's annoying to get that close to finishing to have to start all over again.







Has anyone else had this problem? I am running this on Windows XP.


----------



## gostan

Nick has confirmed with me that the HDMI handshaking on 2.02 FW is slower than the handshaking on 1.33 FW on my former D2. It appears that this has something to do with the dual HDMI inputs. For now, I am experimenting between component and hdmi connections on my two HDTivos.


Also, I can confirm what Bob has previously posted that the new ARC target cut-offs and cross-overs results in base management will differ from previous measurements. The real question to ask is how does it sound??


One issue that I am having is that ARC has raised my channel levels to between + 9 to 10 db across the board, when the reference test sound level measured with my sound meter is at +1.5db at 80. Typically all of my channel levels previously were measured at somewhere between +1 to 2db. I guess that I should not care how far I have to turn the volume kno up or down, but I do.


And I have some type of bug with a tick/clicking in the tweeters of the surround speakers on all inputs with EQ on or off. I have forwarded two ARC measurement files to tech support to see if they can find the bug. I have switched out the surround speakers and amplifier with no change. Very strange!


As always Nick and tech support are very responsive.


By the way, I have a new Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD that is replacing my older 94FD and previously sold Esoteric SA60 cdp. Life is good. And will be "gooder" when the surround bug is fixed.


----------



## zuesmaximus

yes, i can get in the setup menu, I loaded factory setting & tried to reinstall update but after it powers up avm50 and finds it, my laptop freezes and green light on the keyspan adapter green light stays lit. the avm50 displays fm 89.5 "muted" blinks then disappears....my wife is going to kill me! see told me not to install update. a few months ago i tried the same thing on my older avm20 and it blew up


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15763411
> 
> 
> Since I have had ARC V2.0.1, I have run it 2 times. Both times, I have had to run ARC twice, per measurement, to complete my measurements. It gets close to the end of the measurement process, and it just shuts down. I restart it and re-run it the second time, and I don't have any problems. It's not a serious problem; but, it's annoying to get that close to finishing to have to start all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this problem? I am running this on Windows XP.



This is the first post we've had of a problem like that. It's certainly not doing that to me.


I would suggest you uninstall ARC (Windows Add/Remove programs), download a fresh copy from the Anthem site, and install it again.


Also make sure you have no other programs running that might be firing up at long time intervals and screwing up the ARC process (e.g., mail fetching or the like).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15763425
> 
> 
> yes, i can get in the setup menu, I loaded factory setting & tried to reinstall update but after it powers up avm50 and finds it, my laptop freezes and green light on the keyspan adapter green light stays lit. the avm50 displays fm 89.5 "muted" blinks then disappears....my wife is going to kill me! see told me not to install update. a few months ago i tried the same thing on my older avm20 and it blew up



Well there's nothing for it but to call Anthem tech support on Monday. They'll get you going again.


Hopefully you wife will come to appreciate what the new firmware adds to your home theater.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

I hope my wife will be understanding, thanks for all the help, I have to wait on Monday


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15763425
> 
> 
> yes, i can get in the setup menu, I loaded factory setting & tried to reinstall update but after it powers up avm50 and finds it, my laptop freezes and green light on the keyspan adapter green light stays lit. the avm50 displays fm 89.5 "muted" blinks then disappears....my wife is going to kill me! see told me not to install update. a few months ago i tried the same thing on my older avm20 and it blew up



Since you have had problems with more than one Anthem

unit - I would be very suspicious of your LAPTOP and possibly

the USB to Serial Adaptor you are using.


Even if Anthem gives you the flash eraser - it will likely HAPPEN

again.


----------



## zuesmaximus

search thru the forum, I found that a member has the link for the eraser program. I wonder if I should try to use it????


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*The Moral of This Story!*


Don't attempt firmware installs on the weekend. Do attempt firmware installs on Monday. Then if you need help, you've got Anthem tech support handy for the whole week.


Of course if you do this, it will always work right the first time and you'll never need Anthem tech support. See "Carrying Umbrellas prevents Rain"...

--Bob


----------



## facedogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15763326
> 
> 
> Hah! I thought you had made up the "1234567" to keep from posting your real serial number in a public forum.
> 
> 
> Yeah, something is screwed up. A re-install of V1.33 should be your next step. Follow all of the instructions and do it just like you are doing it for the first time.
> 
> 
> If the re-install doesn't fix it, it may be that some cable didn't get re-seated properly when the new ARC board was installed. Don't fiddle inside the chassis yourself unless you are familiar with how to protect the electronics against static electricity discharge.
> 
> --Bob



Bob -- Thanks again for all the help. As you recommended, I re-installed the 1.33 firmware and this time, early on in the install a window popped up asking me to verify the serial number of the unit. The number in the box was simply '0'. I updated this to the correct six digit serial number. The install then completed. After it was done, I can now repeatedly hit 'select', and the last display is my correct serial number. I've got to go do some work on the farm now, but I'll re-run the ARC tonite and let you know how it works. Thanks again!!


mike


----------



## zuesmaximus

true, that's why I went out and bought a new laptop and the keyspan adapter. It was loading with such promise then the error popup...something about "debugg" so weird! I have no luck. Also I order the arc-1 kit which requires uploading...scary


----------



## zuesmaximus

Bob, you are absolulety correct!!!

I'm very impatient


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facedogg* /forum/post/15763538
> 
> 
> Bob -- Thanks again for all the help. As you recommended, I re-installed the 1.33 firmware and this time, early on in the install a window popped up asking me to verify the serial number of the unit. The number in the box was simply '0'. I updated this to the correct six digit serial number. The install then completed. After it was done, I can now repeatedly hit 'select', and the last display is my correct serial number. I've got to go do some work on the farm now, but I'll re-run the ARC tonite and let you know how it works. Thanks again!!
> 
> 
> mike



I suspect you are good to go now. Very strange nonetheless. At a guess something got reset when the ARC board was installed. It's good to know the firmware installer can fix this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15763523
> 
> 
> search thru the forum, I found that a member has the link for the eraser program. I wonder if I should try to use it????



The current version of the Flash Eraser utility for Anthem units that include a video processor is V2.1 dated Jul 28, 2008, and takes up 225,280 bytes on disc.


If that's what you've found, and if you trust the source you are downloading from, then I suppose you can try it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15763422
> 
> 
> Nick has confirmed with me that the HDMI handshaking on 2.02 FW is slower than the handshaking on 1.33 FW on my former D2. It appears that this has something to do with the dual HDMI inputs. For now, I am experimenting between component and hdmi connections on my two HDTivos.
> 
> 
> Also, I can confirm what Bob has previously posted that the new ARC target cut-offs and cross-overs results in base management will differ from previous measurements. The real question to ask is how does it sound??
> 
> 
> One issue that I am having is that ARC has raised my channel levels to between + 9 to 10 db across the board, when the reference test sound level measured with my sound meter is at +1.5db at 80. Typically all of my channel levels previously were measured at somewhere between +1 to 2db. I guess that I should not care how far I have to turn the volume kno up or down, but I do.
> 
> 
> And I have some type of bug with a tick/clicking in the tweeters of the surround speakers on all inputs with EQ on or off. I have forwarded two ARC measurement files to tech support to see if they can find the bug. I have switched out the surround speakers and amplifier with no change. Very strange!
> 
> 
> As always Nick and tech support are very responsive.
> 
> 
> By the way, I have a new Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD that is replacing my older 94FD and previously sold Esoteric SA60 cdp. Life is good. And will be "gooder" when the surround bug is fixed.



Interesting reports. I don't think we have any other reports of tick/clicking from the few D2v owners posting here, although Jayray reported a thumping from his sub when the source was his HD DVD player and when the audio stream was stopped/paused.


Can you quantify the "slower" HDMI handshake at all?


On volume levels, remember that you have to set the LF speaker trim line to 0dB before you can get an accurate "reference" SPL reading from the Noise Level line. I.e., with LF at 0dB, the SPL you measure from Noise Level corresponds to what a reference audio channel would produce during normal playback whenever the Anthem's Main Volume is set to -10dB. So if you set that up for 75dB, then that corresponds to -10dB on Main Volume. 0dB on Main Volume would then correspond to 85dB from a reference source.


What I do is zero out all of Setup > Speaker Calibration, then set Noise Level, and then adjust the internal volume control on my sub leaving all the other Setup > Speaker Calibration trim values at zero. Then I do my ARC Measurement. ARC then Uploads corrected speaker trims (leaving Noise Level unchanged).


With ARC V2.0.1, I think one of the differences is that it is biased even more to do corrections via cuts instead of boosts. That means it will bias the speaker volume trims higher turning more of the corrections it has to apply into cuts from there.


As a side effect, I think this means that if you check SPL using the test tones in Setup > Speaker Calibration (after an ARC Upload) they will yield SPL a bit higher than expected -- since I don't think ARC's room correction cuts get applied when you use those test tones.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facedogg* /forum/post/15763538
> 
> 
> Bob -- Thanks again for all the help. As you recommended, I re-installed the 1.33 firmware and this time, early on in the install a window popped up asking me to verify the serial number of the unit. The number in the box was simply '0'. I updated this to the correct six digit serial number. The install then completed. After it was done, I can now repeatedly hit 'select', and the last display is my correct serial number. I've got to go do some work on the farm now, but I'll re-run the ARC tonite and let you know how it works. Thanks again!!
> 
> 
> mike



I just found this comment towards the end of the release notes text file for ARC V2.0.1. This is referring to upgrading the firmware in preparation for using ARC with the unit:



> Quote:
> If the software installer asks you to program the serial number make sure the number on the chassis sticker, the one on the mic (first six digits on cal file), and the one you're entering match. You only get one chance!! If the wrong number is entered, the unit will have to come to the factory.



I also now recall that text in previous ARC release notes, but this is the first time I've heard of someone actually being required to program the serial number.


So now we know that it really can happen! I wonder just what might trigger this?

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib

Well, I just got my new baby, and had a chance to play with it..



WOW... very much improved sound/picture..










This meaning, from a D1 with ARC and even a D2 with ARC, this new version is MUCH NICER sound...










The soundstage... WOW... much, much larger...


Overall sound very smooth and open/ rich...


Surround, much more 3-d, or 360...



I was not expecting an audio difference for normal Cd's and mp'3, but WOW...



Movies, well, are AWESOME..



Another nice surprise, was the Detail Enhance..


I used this feature when I had my D2, and was awesome. But, when you got near the 10 mark you got major jaggies and noise..


but..


With this new scaler, not anymore










I have the setting cranked to 60 and hardly see any jaggies (some, but very little), and very little noise..


Much has been improved..










Now, more testing..


Me very happy...



NOTE:


I did find one bug with 2.02 firmware.


If you goto the Level section for speakers, and use the Manual option, the front Right speaker will either not make sound or very little..


If you use AUTO, all is good...










Even tried to reload factory settings, then all channels had no sound..










So..



Installed 2.02 via Serial cable and all went well..


Until..


I choose Manual, and again, front right channel was silence..


I emailed Nick. so see what is up...



Since ARC uses AUTO, all went Well..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I see a set of these guys are on the way out the door headed in your direction!











And your report confirming the anticipated, improved Detail Enhancement function in the new VXP chip also means you get a cookie!


Keep those reports coming in folks!


And thanks for the heads up on Manual speaker calibration issue for RF speaker.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15757805
> 
> 
> Also an improved bass solution. Definitely time to upgrade to ARC V2.0.1. Although the install notes say you can use your old V1.2.5 Measurements file, I recommend you plan on doing a fresh set of Measurements.
> 
> 
> The firmware for the D2 is still V1.33. Nick tells me a V1.34 is in the works with some bug fixes that were delayed while getting the D2v out the door.
> 
> --Bob



the dreaded windowes has me again.

have been unable to find & move the mic file to the V2.01

sorry for being slow in the head, but this is not your daddys mac!









where is it and how to move, please.

thx

walt


----------



## Milt99

zuesmaximus, sorry to hear about your bricked Anthem.

The "debugg" error you're seeing is the C++ .dll(program) that installs the firmware puking. IOW, the install program has encountered an error it can't handle and is asking you to open software that will allow you to find the command that failed and debug the program. This is futile even if you have MS Visual Studio installed

Since the firmware install failed, the AVM50 is in a useless state.

drhanz is likely 99.999% correct in that it will fail again even after flashing the memory.


Please ensure that you have no other programs running and that all of the power save options on the laptop are set to NEVER and the laptop is not running on battery and that your wireless is shut off.

It's possible that you have stuff running that your are unaware of, i.e., programs that automatically start when you boot the PC.

I would try the following:

Erase all of the files you downloaded from Anthem.

Re-download them to a folder on your C drive and not to My Documents.

Unzip them again and try the install.

IMO, Anthem and other companies really need to ditch the RS-232 interface and go with USB.

The problem is that the data transfer rate difference between RS232 and USB is gigantic and software that tries to manages that DTR doesn't always work all the time.

Throw in an interrupt from anywhere on your laptop and you're f*cked.

I'm fortunate in that my PC is a server type and has a serial port.

On my first firmware update years ago, I tried using a USB to serial cable and it was a disaster. Turning on the unit only emitted a loud buzz from a mechanical relay. Not even the flash eraser worked.

I had to manually short 2 pins on the eprom with soldering tweezers.


If your laptop has a serial connector(doubtful), go to Radio Shack and get a DB9 serial cable. If you can do that, your future update problems will be over.

I know that many people here successfully update using certain USB-Serial cables but the fundamental issue still exists and makes the firmware upgrade unnecessarily tense.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15763411
> 
> 
> Since I have had ARC V2.0.1, I have run it 2 times. Both times, I have had to run ARC twice, per measurement, to complete my measurements. It gets close to the end of the measurement process, and it just shuts down. I restart it and re-run it the second time, and I don't have any problems. It's not a serious problem; but, it's annoying to get that close to finishing to have to start all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this problem? I am running this on Windows XP.



I had a few more thoughts on this problem for you.


First, if you don't already have firmware V1.33 installed in your Anthem (or the newer V2.00 or V2.02 stuff for the D2v or AVM 50v) you should do that now.


Second, if you have any other USB devices attached to your computer, try disconnecting them during ARC Measurement. For example, I use a BlueTooth wireless mouse instead of a USB mouse.


Third the ARC mic (and a USB/Serial adapter if you are using one) ideally should be plugged directly into your computer rather than into a USB hub which is connected to your computer.


Fourth, make sure the serial cable is screwed in at both ends, not just pressed in. This will improve its electrical connection and minimize the chance that serial communications faults are causing your problem.


Fifth, go to the manufacturer's site for your USB/Serial adapter (if you are using one) and double check that you have the latest driver for your version of Windows.


Sixth, if your computer has a built in microphone, disable it during ARC Measurements.


There's some "grasping at straws" going on here, but these are all worth a try.

--Bob


----------



## audiman

Can someone with a D2v check if there's a SQ difference between a 5.1/7.1 lpcm signal decoded in a BR player, and the same signal but bistreamed to let the D2v do the decoding ? It should sound the same as we have been told so many times


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/15763968
> 
> 
> zuesmaximus, sorry to hear about your bricked D2.
> 
> The "debugg" error you're seeing is the C++ .dll(program) that installs the firmware puking. IOW, the install program has encountered an error it can't handle and is asking you to open software that will allow you to find the command that failed and debug the program. This is futile even if you have MS Visual Studio installed
> 
> Since the firmware install failed, the AVM50 is in a useless state.
> 
> drhanz is likely 99.999% correct in that it will fail again even after flashing the memory.
> 
> 
> Please ensure that you have no other programs running and that all of the power save options on the laptop are set to NEVER and the laptop is not running on battery and that your wireless is shut off.
> 
> It's possible that you have stuff running that your are unaware of, i.e., programs that automatically start when you boot the PC.
> 
> I would try the following:
> 
> Erase all of the files you downloaded from Anthem.
> 
> Re-download them to a folder on your C drive and not to My Documents.
> 
> Unzip them again and try the install.
> 
> IMO, Anthem and other companies really need to ditch the RS-232 interface and go with USB.
> 
> The problem is that the data transfer rate difference between RS232 and USB is gigantic and software that tries to manages that DTR doesn't always work all the time.
> 
> Throw in an interrupt from anywhere on your laptop and you're f*cked.
> 
> I'm fortunate in that my PC is a server type and has a serial port.
> 
> On my first firmware update years ago, I tried using a USB to serial cable and it was a disaster. Turning on the unit only emitted a loud buzz from a mechanical relay. Not even the flash eraser worked.
> 
> I had to manually short 2 pins on the eprom with soldering tweezers.
> 
> 
> If your laptop has a serial connector, go to Radio Shack and get a DB9 serial cable. If you can do that, your future update problems will be over.
> 
> I know that many people here successfully update using certain USB-Serial cables but the fundamental issue still exists and makes the firmware upgrade unnecessarily tense.



Milt's Info is GREAT.


I also use a REAL SERIAL PORT - but USB to Serial is Suppose to work










I Assume zuesmaximus's laptop does not have a serial port it is VERY NEW and

Also Running VISTA which can screw up anything.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/15764015
> 
> 
> Can someone with a D2v check if there's a SQ difference between a 5.1/7.1 lpcm signal decoded in a BR player, and the same signal but bistreamed to let the D2v do the decoding ? It should sound the same as we have been told so many times



One thing that always happens with ANY DECODE in the

AVR is you loose BD-Live Sounds.


If the player does not decode the audio - it can not insert

the BD-Live Sound.


Other than that - I'm sure no one can sonically hear any

difference.


----------



## zuesmaximus

Milt99 your right. drhanz has been a great help.

I will defin- try everything a can't wait for Monday. If everything fails my wifey is going to be very angry... b/c my first try damaged avm20 , second time avm50 state of useless, and she knows that if I can't fix it I will go out and buy another; maybe D2. She knows the cost on that.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15764050
> 
> 
> Milt99 your right. drhanz has been a great help.
> 
> I will defin- try everything a can't wait for Monday. If everything fails my wifey is going to be very angry... b/c my first try damaged avm20 , second time avm50 state of useless, and she knows that if I can't fix it I will go out and buy another; maybe D2. She knows the cost on that.



Valentine's is just around the Corner.


Tell your wife the D2 is HER VALENTINE's Present


----------



## Milt99

I my edited post since I realized his laptop is new.

I respect Anthem but they really should gone to a USB board AND put the damn port on the FRONT of the unit ala the PS3.

I've had my Anthem open(doing the tweezer thing) and the eprom and other chips are situated on the very front of the unit.


zues, your Anthem will eventually be OK, don't worry.

It just has an incomplete brain right now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15763938
> 
> 
> the dreaded windowes has me again.
> 
> have been unable to find & move the mic file to the V2.01
> 
> sorry for being slow in the head, but this is not your daddys mac!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> where is it and how to move, please.
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



Just to make sure I don't have you confused with another poster, as I recall you already have ARC V2.0.1 installed on your Windows PC for use with your prior Anthem unit and now you want to set it up for use with your new D2v, right? If I've got this wrong, stop here and tell me.


-------------------------------------------------


Insert the ARC V2.0.1 install CD that came with your new D2v. If the installer application pops up automatically just exit out of it.


Now, using the Start button (lower left of screen) go to My Computer and find the CD drive and double click on that to open it up. As I recall you will need to double click on a folder in there to get to where the ARC application itself is sitting on the CD waiting to be installed.


In that same folder you will find the two files with names made of numbers. The numbers are the serial number of your new D2v and the serial number of your new ARC mic that came with the D2v. Drag both of those files to your desktop (which will make a copy leaving the originals behind on the CD). You are now done with the CD and can eject it.


Now go to My Computer > main drive (usually C: ) > Program Files and find the Anthem folder. In there you will find the ARC V2.0.1 application you previously installed along with the two numbered files corresponding to the serial numbers of your old Anthem unit and your old ARC mic. Drag the two numbered files sitting on your desktop into that folder. You'll now have 4 numbered files in there -- your old pair and your new pair.


You are done.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

now that would be a great gift!!!!

I deserve it, hahaha...

I'm taking her to Borgata in Atlantic city for the week.

If I don't fix avm50 by today and tomorrow, Iknow what I will be thinking about...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/15764082
> 
> 
> I my edited post since I realized his laptop is new.
> 
> I respect Anthem but they really should gone to a USB board AND put the damn port on the FRONT of the unit ala the PS3.



That or ethernet.


The serial stuff is holding on due to the fact that so many of the theater integration remote controllers still use serial.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

that would be great! usb on the front panel


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15764088
> 
> 
> Just to make sure I don't have you confused with another poster, as I recall you already have ARC V2.0.1 installed on your Windows PC for use with your prior Anthem unit and now you want to set it up for use with your new D2v, right? If I've got this wrong, stop here and tell me.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Insert the ARC V2.0.1 install CD that came with your new D2v. If the installer application pops up automatically just exit out of it.
> 
> 
> Now, using the Start button (lower left of screen) go to My Computer and find the CD drive and double click on that to open it up. As I recall you will need to double click on a folder in there to get to where the ARC application itself is sitting on the CD waiting to be installed.
> 
> 
> In that same folder you will find the two files with names made of numbers. The numbers are the serial number of your new D2v and the serial number of your new ARC mic that came with the D2v. Drag both of those files to your desktop (which will make a copy leaving the originals behind on the CD). You are now done with the CD and can eject it.
> 
> 
> Now go to My Computer > main drive (usually C: ) > Program Files and find the Anthem folder. In there you will find the ARC V2.0.1 application you previously installed along with the two numbered files corresponding to the serial numbers of your old Anthem unit and your old ARC mic. Drag the two numbered files sitting on your desktop into that folder. You'll now have 4 numbered files in there -- your old pair and your new pair.
> 
> 
> You are done.
> 
> --Bob



bob: still using the d-2 not the d2v2.

just downloaded the 2.01 yesterday - today was too be measurement day, but cannot find the mic file.

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/15764015
> 
> 
> Can someone with a D2v check if there's a SQ difference between a 5.1/7.1 lpcm signal decoded in a BR player, and the same signal but bistreamed to let the D2v do the decoding ? It should sound the same as we have been told so many times



This is a challenge definitely worthy of a cookie or two. And I suspect it will take a while -- multiple people doing multiple tests -- to nail this down.


Keep in mind, folks, that the decoding software in the D2v and AVM 50v is new. It may have bugs in it.


For example, we may discover the infamous 10dB or 5dB low LFE bugs. Or something more subtle.


Remember when doing such comparisons, that even small variations in volume level can bias what you are hearing. The louder version will "sound better".

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15764171
> 
> 
> This is a challenge definitely worthy of a cookie or two. And I suspect it will take a while -- multiple people doing multiple tests -- to nail this down.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, folks, that the decoding software in the D2v and AVM 50v is new. It may have bugs in it.
> 
> 
> For example, we may discover the infamous 10dB or 5dB low LFE bugs. Or something more subtle.
> 
> 
> Remember when doing such comparisons, that even small variations in volume level can bias what you are hearing. The louder version will "sound better".
> 
> --Bob



March 2009 _*"Home Theater Magazine"*_ just did a comparison

test of Player Decoding versus AVR Decoding. The results

[assuming no bugs] can not be distinguished - except for the

ones I mentioned *earlier*.


But then that is the whole THEORY behind lossless audio formats.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15764134
> 
> 
> bob: still using the d-2 not the d2v2.
> 
> just downloaded the 2.01 yesterday - today was too be measurement day, but cannot find the mic file.
> 
> walt



Ah! OK, were you updating from a version of ARC older than V1.2? If so then the two files you need are in a different folder in Program Files -- Anthem changed the name of the folder they used when they offered ARC for the AVM 50. The folder names are detailed at the end of the release notes text file that's included in the folder you downloaded from Anthem.


Or you can get the pair of files off of your original ARC install CD (as I described above). Just copy them into the folder in Program Files where your new ARC V2.0.1 application is installed. Be sure they are in the same folder as the application itself.


------------------------------------


Just in case, you did "install" ARC V2.0.1 right? You are not trying to run it directly out of the folder you downloaded from Anthem right? It has to be installed.


The installer is the "setup" program you will find in the folder you downloaded from Anthem. Double click on the setup program to install ARC V2.0.1. If you copy your two licensing/calibration files into that same folder with the setup program prior to doing that, the setup program will insure they end up in the right place as part of the install.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

will do as you outlined.

thx

walt

and, i have a "haed copy" now, in my file, as the next update for arc will require the same gymnastics.

oh, for the good days of the 'mac' drag and drop!!

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15764239
> 
> 
> will do as you outlined.
> 
> thx
> 
> walt
> 
> and, i have a "haed copy" now, in my file, as the next update for arc will require the same gymnastics.
> 
> oh, for the good days of the 'mac' drag and drop!!
> 
> walt



Once you have the correct pair of licensing/calibration files in the correct (new) folder in Program Files you won't have to bother with that afterwards. That pair of files survives new ARC version installs without you having to do anything. In fact, even if you UNinstall ARC using Windows Add/Remove Programs, those two files are left behind in the Program Files > Anthem folder ready to be used by any new version of ARC you install later.

--Bob


----------



## audiman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15764171
> 
> 
> This is a challenge definitely worthy of a cookie or two. And I suspect it will take a while -- multiple people doing multiple tests -- to nail this down.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, folks, that the decoding software in the D2v and AVM 50v is new. It may have bugs in it.
> 
> 
> For example, we may discover the infamous 10dB or 5dB low LFE bugs. Or something more subtle.
> 
> 
> Remember when doing such comparisons, that even small variations in volume level can bias what you are hearing. The louder version will "sound better".
> 
> --Bob



Other then that, if i have read well, there is SQ difference between the D2 and the newer D2v ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/15764592
> 
> 
> Other then that, if i have read well, there is SQ difference between the D2 and the newer D2v ?



If memory serves, so far we've had four preliminary comparison reports -- 2 of which say the sound was surprisingly better in the D2v/ARC compared to the D2/ARC, one of which said the sound was perhaps not so surprisingly better in the D2v/ARC compared to the AVM 50/ARC, and one which said the sound was about the same in the D2v/ARC compared to the D2/ARC.


All of this stuff has to be taken with a grain of salt since these are initial impressions, and user expectations bias is probably also a factor. The AVM 50/ARC vs. D2v/ARC comparison (poster JAYRAY) is the most detailed so far. This one is interesting since it's the closest we are likely to come for a while in getting anything like a comparison of the AVM 50v/ARC vs. the D2v/ARC.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15764003
> 
> 
> I had a few more thoughts on this problem for you.
> 
> 
> First, if you don't already have firmware V1.33 installed in your Anthem (or the newer V2.00 or V2.02 stuff for the D2v or AVM 50v) you should do that now.
> 
> 
> Second, if you have any other USB devices attached to your computer, try disconnecting them during ARC Measurement. For example, I use a BlueTooth wireless mouse instead of a USB mouse.
> 
> 
> Third the ARC mic (and a USB/Serial adapter if you are using one) ideally should be plugged directly into your computer rather than into a USB hub which is connected to your computer.
> 
> 
> Fourth, make sure the serial cable is screwed in at both ends, not just pressed in. This will improve its electrical connection and minimize the chance that serial communications faults are causing your problem.
> 
> 
> Fifth, go to the manufacturer's site for your USB/Serial adapter (if you are using one) and double check that you have the latest driver for your version of Windows.
> 
> 
> Sixth, if your computer has a built in microphone, disable it during ARC Measurements.
> 
> 
> There's some "grasping at straws" going on here, but these are all worth a try.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I do have Firmware V1.33 installed.

No, I don't have any other USB attached during measurements.


I will look into your other suggestions. With V1.2.5, every once in a while, the ARC Software would shut down; but, that was very very seldom. However, so far with V2.0.1, it has shut down once for every measurement that I have done.


As usual, thanks very much for your responses.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Since it is failing towards the end of the Measurements, I wonder if it might be an available memory issue? I wouldn't think ARC needs all that much memory to do its thing, but I've never actually looked.


Are you doing a 7.1 system (I do a 5.1)? Are you doing a separate Music configuration (I do run a separate Music)? Are you doing more than 5 mic positions (I do 5)?

--Bob


----------



## "MIKEY"

Experiencing a problem & requesting some help.


Ran ARC 2.01 & the process seemed smooth enough until the very end. When opening the ARC file, a message reads, "error, invalid file format".


As a result, I cannot determine the crossover targets, gains...


Uploaded both 1.33 & ARC 2.01 from the Anthem site & re-ran ARC 2.01, twice, with the same results.


I did notice the speaker setting, when using the OSD, indicate that the crossovers had changed to:


ARC 2.01

L/R/C channels 60

Surrounds 100

Subwoofer 60

Again, cannot determine targets, gain...


changed from ARC 1.2.5 (previous settings):

L/R channels 50

Center 60

Surrounds 110

Subwoofer 120

Gain 3.45


Does anyone know how to correct this situation, getting the ARC file to read crossover targets, gain...?


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There might be a file extension conflict with some other app already on your computer. I believe there is a file compression utility that also uses the .arc file extension.


Instead of trying to open the file by double clicking on it, instead run the ARC application itself in Advanced mode and try opening your file of ARC results from its File > Open menu item.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15763740
> 
> 
> 
> Can you quantify the "slower" HDMI handshake at all?
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Yes, when I switch channels with the D2v on one of my two TivoHD's the channel switching is definitively slightly slower than with my D2.


And when I switch from Tivo 1 (hdmi 1) input to Tivo 2 (hdmi 2) input that switching is slower and there is even a blank screen for a moment in time before the handshaking finalizes.


Nick told me the following: *Regarding switching speed, it's slower vs previous models and nothing can be done about it. If two displays are connected to HDMI, even slower.*


I do not have two displays connected to HDMI. And the switching from one input to another is much slower on the D2v2 compared to the D2.


----------



## "MIKEY"

Thanks again Bob!

Running advanced mode & opening the file worked.


Subwoofer crossover results is 120 from the file & 60 on the OSD. Strange?


ARC 2.01

L/R/C channels 60 (both file & OSD)

Surrounds 100 (Both File & OSD)

Subwoofer 60 on the OSD (120 in the file?)

Gain 3.022


Any ideas why the file reads 120, while on the OSD it's 60?


No matter how it reads, it sounds good.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Again this is normal in ARC V2.0.1.


The Targets window shows Room Correction "cutoffs". The Setup menu shows bass management crossovers. These can be different in the new ARC.

--Bob


----------



## "MIKEY"

Bob, thanks for the help & explanations!


----------



## Doright

Hello all,


I just received my ARC kit for my Anthem D2.

I gave the dealer my Serial # (*****2) when I ordered it.

I just tried to run the software and it failed. The Serial # printed on the CD and contained in the software is *****7


This was obviously a typo. Is there anyway around this or do I need to wait until Monday to ask for a new CD?


I really wanted to calibrate this weekend while wife was away.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Doright* /forum/post/15765953
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> 
> I just received my ARC kit for my Anthem D2.
> 
> I gave the dealer my Serial # (*****2) when I ordered it.
> 
> I just tried to run the software and it failed. The Serial # printed on the CD and contained in the software is *****7
> 
> 
> This was obviously a typo. Is there anyway around this or do I need to wait until Monday to ask for a new CD?
> 
> 
> I really wanted to calibrate this weekend while wife was away.



You'll have to wait until Monday. There's no way for you to fix this yourself.


However you don't have to wait for them to send you a new CD. Give Anthem tech support a call with your tale of woe and they will be able to generate and email to you the pair of licensing/calibration files you need.


They will need the correct serial number for your Anthem unit, and also the correct serial number for your ARC mic. They may need you to email your current pair of files to them (I don't know if they have an easier way to get the proper mic calibration data for your mic). They'll tell you if so.


Copy the corrected pair of files they email back to you into the Anthem Folder in Windows Program Files -- the same location where the ARC application itself and the two bogus files are installed now. Be sure to keep a safe backup copy of your corrected pair of files since you can't depend on the CD as your backup for those.


ETA: By the way, I'm curious. Did your new ARC kit come with ARC V1.2.5 or with the just released ARC V2.0.1? If it came with V1.2.5, then be aware that the V2.0.1 improved version is available for download from the Anthem web site. You'll still need the new licensing/calibration files from Anthem tech support (the same pair of files will work with any version of ARC), but getting V2.0.1 now will save you having to upgrade later. V2.0.1 installs on top of V1.2.5 without any difficulty so it's no problem that you might have already installed the V1.2.5 version. Just add in the corrected pair of files when you get them.


ETA 2: The two licensing and calibration files are easy to spot. Their file names are made up of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem combined with the serial number of your ARC mic.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15765276
> 
> 
> Yes, when I switch channels with the D2v on one of my two TivoHD's the channel switching is definitively slightly slower than with my D2.
> 
> 
> And when I switch from Tivo 1 (hdmi 1) input to Tivo 2 (hdmi 2) input that switching is slower and there is even a blank screen for a moment in time before the handshaking finalizes.
> 
> 
> Nick told me the following: *Regarding switching speed, it's slower vs previous models and nothing can be done about it. If two displays are connected to HDMI, even slower.*
> 
> 
> I do not have two displays connected to HDMI. And the switching from one input to another is much slower on the D2v2 compared to the D2.



I presume the slower handshake speed must be a feature of HDMI V1.3 that HDMI ORG forgot to tell us about.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Just watched Dark Knight and got two audio dropouts. I think someone else has reported audio dropouts as well with the D2V. Have emailed Nick to give a heads up. New firmware anyone









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15766314
> 
> 
> Just watched Dark Knight and got two audio dropouts. I think someone else has reported audio dropouts as well with the D2V. Have emailed Nick to give a heads up. New firmware anyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Yes, our first poster to report taking delivery of a D2v -- DUCKWOOD -- complete with photos of the CES Demo Doll.


His unit came with V2.00 firmware and he reported frequent dropouts. The V2.02 firmware fixed most of that, but he reported he was still getting some dropouts. Evidently Anthem didn't quite go far enough in whatever change they made for V2.02.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I had a friend over today who is very familiar with my setup and the first words out of his mouth were, what did you do to the sound it sounds fantastic. He also remarked on how my TV picture looked much sharper and vibrant.


As noted above there is a longer handshake when switching to my Tivo but it is quicker switching displays when I go from my TV to my projector. Go figure.


----------



## ironcorn

Anyone seen the D2v on EBAY? Its about 25% off MRSP. I've bought new/sealed B&W speakers from this guy for cheap before, getting ready to buy more, but not sure where he got/gets them?


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ironcorn* /forum/post/15767443
> 
> 
> Anyone seen the D2v on EBAY? Its about 25% off MRSP. I've bought new/sealed B&W speakers from this guy for cheap before, getting ready to buy more, but not sure where he got/gets them?



I don't believe there are any D2v units on eBay and even if they were, if purchased online, Anthem products lose their warranty. When making an investment of that dollar value, why risk buying a product without warranty?


Not wise.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ironcorn* /forum/post/15767443
> 
> 
> Anyone seen the D2v on EBAY? Its about 25% off MRSP. I've bought new/sealed B&W speakers from this guy for cheap before, getting ready to buy more, but not sure where he got/gets them?



That's not a D2v, and it wouldn't come with a warranty.


If you want a D2 I would go to Audiogon for a much better deal (and you will find many on sale from people here).


However, if your prepared to pay the price on Ebay then a D2v is the only option.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Doright* /forum/post/15765953
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> 
> I just received my ARC kit for my Anthem D2.
> 
> I gave the dealer my Serial # (*****2) when I ordered it.
> 
> I just tried to run the software and it failed. The Serial # printed on the CD and contained in the software is *****7
> 
> 
> This was obviously a typo. Is there anyway around this or do I need to wait until Monday to ask for a new CD?
> 
> 
> I really wanted to calibrate this weekend while wife was away.



I could be wrong - but I believe the DEALER can create a CD with

the right serial number. If my 1st assumption is true - then maybe

your dealer is OPEN today.


----------



## jayray

Had a friend over who also is quite familiar with my previous AVM50 ARC setup and we watched Dark Knight. His observations of the D2V were almost identical to mine when I first heard the diff. Specifically he mentioned the 360 degree soundfied, the smooth highs and how realistic dialogue seemed now. I put on some demo LFE scenes blew and they blew him away. Music had the same effect on him, in particular the wide soundfield and the high freq detail.

John


----------



## jayray

Found this neat pic of the AVM50V internals.

http://www.castercomm.com/gallery.cfm?cid=111 


John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15768505
> 
> 
> Found this neat pic of the AVM50V internals.
> 
> http://www.castercomm.com/gallery.cfm?cid=111
> 
> 
> John



That convinces me NOT to Upgrade.


I think the RED and GREEN PC board Color Scheme collides


----------



## jayray

It must be better to LOOK good than SOUND good










John

ps. I don't have any dancing mascots to throw your way


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15768542
> 
> 
> It must be better to LOOK good than SOUND good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John
> 
> ps. I don't have any dancing mascots to throw your way



How can Bright RED and GREEN sound Good


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ironcorn* /forum/post/15767443
> 
> 
> Anyone seen the D2v on EBAY? Its about 25% off MRSP. I've bought new/sealed B&W speakers from this guy for cheap before, getting ready to buy more, but not sure where he got/gets them?



I don't see any of the new D2v units on eBay. The two Anthem US market units (and the one international unit) on there now are quite clearly original D2 units.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15762330
> 
> 
> ................ The simple answer is that you will normally want to use Scale Out > Letter Pillar Box so that your imaging is not distorted. However, some devices do not properly identify whether the content they are playing is 4:3 or 16:9. In that case you may need to choose Scale Out > Anamorphic to get the correct result. EXAMPLE: An SD-DVD player plays an "anamorphic" or "enhanced for 16:9 TVs" wide screen movie but tells the Anthem it is actually 4:3 content. If you use Letter/Pillar box you will get unnecessary pillar box bars and the movie will appear squeezed horizontally. Use Anamorphic and it will display correctly. *Since most SD-DVD movies you will view these days are anamorphic wide screen, you should probably leave the Anamorphic setting as your default for that SD-DVD player input, and only switch to Letter/Pillar Box when you need it (i.e., when playing real 4:3 movie or TV show discs).*--Bob



Bob, (refer the bold text) I suppose when each time there's a change in the input format, it will be necessary to enter Video Source Adjustment>Scale Output and select the appropriate output for proper movie viewing. Not very convenient, isn't it? Or do we set up each format as a different input source (DVD1, DVD2, .....) and then simply switch inputs?


I have never used this feature on my D2 since my present adjustments are made in my CRT proj which allows me to use different memories to store each setting. Proper viewing is then a matter of selecting the appropriate memory button on the remote.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15767933
> 
> 
> I could be wrong - but I believe the DEALER can create a CD with
> 
> the right serial number. If my 1st assumption is true - then maybe
> 
> your dealer is OPEN today.



I would be very surprised to learn that Anthem has given any of the dealers access to the encryption tool used to create those two files. It would allow them to "license" multiple older D2 units for past customers in combo with just one ARC mic held by the store, which is exactly what Anthem is trying to avoid (since Anthem doesn't get the licensing fees, and it leaves the owners dependent on access to that one mic from the dealer).


So far I don't think it has been all that big a problem that Anthem tech support needs to offload the job of creating the corrected files to the dealers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15768839
> 
> 
> Bob, (refer the bold text) I suppose when each time there's a change in the input format, it will be necessary to enter Video Source Adjustment>Scale Output and select the appropriate output for proper movie viewing. Not very convenient, isn't it? Or do we set up each format as a different input source (DVD1, DVD2, .....) and then simply switch inputs?
> 
> 
> I have never used this feature on my D2 since my present adjustments are made in my CRT proj which allows me to use different memories to store each setting. Proper viewing is then a matter of selecting the appropriate memory button on the remote.
> 
> 
> Ben



Some players will properly flag the aspect ratio of each SD-DVD they are playing. In that case you just leave the Anthem on Letter/Pillar Box.


If your player doesn't do that then there are 3 options:


1) Set up two overlayed source input definitions (e.g., DVD1 vs. DVD2). The Video Source Adjust > Scale Out setting is remembered separately for each of them.


2) Use the "Shortcut" available from the remote -- see the very end of Section 4.11 in the Manual. Press and hold the Mode key and "Scale Output" will appear. While that is on screen, use the Up or Down arrows to cycle between the Scale Output choices. This is what I do with my Pioneer Elite 59avi SD-DVD player.


3) Let the SD-DVD player add the pillar box bars as necessary. Normally you set the SD-DVD to *NEVER* add pillar box bars and to output 480i video. The Anthem then scales that video and adds pillar box bars according to how the video is flagged from the player and the Anamorphic or Letter/Pillar Box choice you make in the Video Source Adjust > Scale Out menu. However, players that do not correctly flag some video often DO correctly interpret it internally, meaning that, if asked to do so, they will make the correct choice whether to add pillar box bars even though they don't put out the flags letting the Anthem do so automatically. If you are going to have the SD-DVD player do this, then you should also instruct the player to scale the video up to higher output resolution -- typically 1080i. If you leave the player at 480i then when the player adds pillar box bars you will lose horizontal resolution. At 720p or higher upscaled output the pillar box bars are created by the player in the higher resolution output signal and so you don't lose horizontal resolution.


Since the de-interlacing and scaling in the Anthem is superior to that offered in most SD-DVD players, I recommend that you leave the player on 480i output -- and set to never generate pillar box bars -- and then make the manual adjustment in the Anthem once per movie if necessary given the way your player flags its output. The SD-DVD player should also be set to believe it is connected to a 16:9 TV.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15768564
> 
> 
> How can Bright RED and GREEN sound Good



ARC takes care of that for you...










--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Thanks for the tips, Bob. Very clearly understood. Maybe I should just let my CRT proj be the way it is, at least for now.










Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15767433
> 
> 
> I had a friend over today who is very familiar with my setup and the first words out of his mouth were, what did you do to the sound it sounds fantastic. He also remarked on how my TV picture looked much sharper and vibrant.
> 
> 
> As noted above there is a longer handshake when switching to my Tivo but it is quicker switching displays when I go from my TV to my projector. Go figure.



I know Jayray converted from an AVM 50/ARC to the D2v/ARC.


In your case I believe you are comparing your prior D2/ARC setup to your new D2v/ARC, correct?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15769004
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tips, Bob. Very clearly understood. Maybe I should just let my CRT proj be the way it is, at least for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



That may not work.


Many displays/projectors only offer a choice like this if fed SD resolution video (it takes a more expensive video processing circuit to manipulate HD input video).


Since you'll want the Anthem to feed the projector its "native", HD resolution, you may not be able to get the projector to provide the pillar box bars.


Seriously, play with the Shortcut option from the Anthem remote a few times and it will be second nature to you. Again, this only affects the currently selected input (the SD-DVD player in this case), so it won't mess up whatever you have set for other input sources.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15769036
> 
> 
> That may not work.
> 
> 
> Many displays/projectors only offer a choice like this if fed SD resolution video (it takes a more expensive video processing circuit to manipulate HD input video).
> 
> 
> Since you'll want the Anthem to feed the projector its "native", HD resolution, you may not be able to get the projector to provide the pillar box bars.
> 
> 
> Seriously, play with the Shortcut option from the Anthem remote a few times and it will be second nature to you. Again, this only affects the currently selected input (the SD-DVD player in this case), so it won't mess up whatever you have set for other input sources.
> 
> --Bob



I haven't got down (or up) to HD as yet. Still going strong on SD using Denon 5910 and Pioneer 989 (79 in the US, I think) and a large library of 900. With the D2 upscaling to 720p or 1080i, the current situation is seems quite satisfactory. Unfortunately, with HD, the D2's video capability becomes redundant.


But I am thinking of giving the D2 settings a try, that is, if I can get off my ass and start messing around again instead of simply enjoying the show.









Meantime, am saving all your advice somewhere for reference. My thanks, Bob.


Ben


----------



## zuesmaximus

anyone encountered an error message " OKI boot". my avm50 which its ver. 1.22, I'm trying to upgrade to v1.33. retried about 5 times this morning. Is there something I'm doing wrong? Only good thing is my unit isn't freezing.

I'm no longer using my new laptop. I found an old Dell desktop with windows xp and a serial port.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15769284
> 
> 
> anyone encountered an error message " OKI boot". my avm50 which its ver. 1.22, I'm trying to upgrade to v1.33. retried about 5 times this morning. Is there something I'm doing wrong? Only good thing is my unit isn't freezing.
> 
> I'm no longer using my new laptop. I found an old Dell desktop with windows xp and a serial port.



Yeah, it's an indication that a portion of the Anthem is not willing to accept the new programming.


The XP with the serial port will probably work fine for you after you get and apply the Flash Eraser from Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

If a use the flash eraser, do I need to install first the v1.22 or go straight to v1.33?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15769284
> 
> 
> anyone encountered an error message " OKI boot". my avm50 which its ver. 1.22, I'm trying to upgrade to v1.33. retried about 5 times this morning. Is there something I'm doing wrong? Only good thing is my unit isn't freezing.
> 
> I'm no longer using my new laptop. I found an old Dell desktop with windows xp and a serial port.



That is a very OLD error message you should not be

Seeing Any More. That use to happen often to many

people in the early days of version 1.1xxx or even 1.0xxx


But Anthem fixed that problem almost 2 years ago.


----------



## zuesmaximus

yeap, my luck...

I don't know if I need to load v1.22 before upgrade. status button still indicates v1.33 on avm50


----------



## billatlakegeorge




Bob Pariseau said:


> I know Jayray converted from an AVM 50/ARC to the D2v/ARC.
> 
> 
> In your case I believe you are comparing your prior D2/ARC setup to your new D2v/ARC, correct?
> 
> --Bob[/QUOTE/]
> 
> 
> That is correct.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15769385
> 
> 
> yeap, my luck...
> 
> I don't know if I need to load v1.22 before upgrade. status button still indicates v1.33 on avm50



The Flash Eraser will leave the unit with no firmware installed.


You can then install V1.33 directly without having to install V1.22 first.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




billatlakegeorge said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15769011
> 
> 
> I know Jayray converted from an AVM 50/ARC to the D2v/ARC.
> 
> 
> In your case I believe you are comparing your prior D2/ARC setup to your new D2v/ARC, correct?
> 
> --Bob[/QUOTE/]
> 
> 
> That is correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool! I wonder where the improved audio is coming from?
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

IRONCORN PM'd me the listing he found on eBay. It does appear to be a new D2v with V2.02 firmware, still in a factory sealed box.


The dealer is in Los Angeles and does not come up as the authorized Anthem dealer for that zip code.


The eBay text is a bit confusing since it describes this unit as a D2 (not D2v). It also says the unit comes with a 90 days warranty, which would be another indication this is not an authorized Anthem dealer. The official Anthem warranty is 3 years on the audio portion, 2 years on the video portion, and 1 year on the remotes.


It is my understanding that authorized Anthem dealers are not allowed to ship Anthem products outside of their assigned market area -- with a possible exception if you have no Anthem dealer in your area (not confirmed). Of course that's an issue between Anthem and the dealer not between Anthem and you. But buying from a dealer who is not an authorized Anthem dealer definitely means putting your Anthem warranty at risk


---------------------------------------------


Folks, Anthem's tech support is second to none and this is a brand new product that may very well come with brand new problems.


My strong recommendation is that you do nothing to jeopardize access to Anthem's warranty coverage -- which means you should buy only from an authorized Anthem dealer.


Give the product 6 months or so in the marketplace to be sure it has no teething pains, and then consider gray market, trans-shipped, or used equipment purchases if the deal looks good enough to you.


We have had any number of posters in the past month saying Anthem dealers are dealing on price now, so that's certainly worth a try.


------------------------------------------


By the way, that dealer locator on the Anthem web site has been known to be inaccurate now and again. If a dealer says he is authorized and yet he's still not coming up on the locator, just give Anthem a call and they can clarify that dealer's status.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15769602
> 
> 
> By the way, that dealer locator on the Anthem web site has been known to be inaccurate now and again. If a dealer says he is authorized and yet he's still not coming up on the locator, just give Anthem a call and they can clarify that dealer's status.
> 
> --Bob



And if the dealer is an Authorized Anthem dealer - that may be short lived....


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15769602
> 
> 
> IRONCORN PM'd me the listing he found on eBay. It does appear to be a new D2v with V2.02 firmware, still in a factory sealed box.
> 
> 
> The dealer is in Los Angeles and does not come up as the authorized Anthem dealer for that zip code.
> 
> 
> The eBay text is a bit confusing since it describes this unit as a D2 (not D2v). It also says the unit comes with a 90 days warranty, which would be another indication this is not an authorized Anthem dealer. The official Anthem warrant is 3 years on the audio portion, 2 years on the video portion, and 1 year on the remotes.
> 
> 
> It is my understanding that authorized Anthem dealers are not allowed to ship Anthem products outside of their assigned market area -- with a possible exception if you have no Anthem dealer in your area (not confirmed). Of course that's an issue between Anthem and the dealer not between Anthem and you. But buying from a dealer who is not an authorized Anthem dealer definitely means putting your Anthem warranty at risk
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Folks, Anthem's tech support is second to none and this is a brand new product that may very well come with brand new problems.
> 
> 
> My strong recommendation is that you do nothing to jeopardize access to Anthem's warranty coverage -- which means you should buy only from an authorized Anthem dealer.
> 
> 
> Give the product 6 months or so in the marketplace to be sure it has no teething pains, and then consider gray market, trans-shipped, or used equipment purchases if the deal looks good enough to you.
> 
> 
> We have had any number of posters in the past month saying Anthem dealers are dealing on price now, so that's certainly worth a try.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> By the way, that dealer locator on the Anthem web site has been known to be inaccurate now and again. If a dealer says he is authorized and yet he's still not coming up on the locator, just give Anthem a call and they can clarify that dealer's status.
> 
> --Bob



Is this the one listed for $5249.00? I don't see any mention of a 90 day warranty.


In any event, I would very strongly advise AGAINST making this purchase. For this type of equipment, it simply is not worth the risk at all. Not even close.


And you do have to wonder what the circumstances of this sale are. New, sealed unit? Definitely makes you wonder.


----------



## V7Sport73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15769602
> 
> 
> IRONCORN PM'd me the listing he found on eBay. It does appear to be a new D2v with V2.02 firmware, still in a factory sealed box.
> 
> 
> The dealer is in Los Angeles and does not come up as the authorized Anthem dealer for that zip code.
> 
> 
> The eBay text is a bit confusing since it describes this unit as a D2 (not D2v). It also says the unit comes with a 90 days warranty, which would be another indication this is not an authorized Anthem dealer. The official Anthem warrant is 3 years on the audio portion, 2 years on the video portion, and 1 year on the remotes.
> 
> 
> It is my understanding that authorized Anthem dealers are not allowed to ship Anthem products outside of their assigned market area -- with a possible exception if you have no Anthem dealer in your area (not confirmed). Of course that's an issue between Anthem and the dealer not between Anthem and you. But buying from a dealer who is not an authorized Anthem dealer definitely means putting your Anthem warranty at risk
> 
> 
> --Bob





I know Noor very well. He is an Anthem dealer in LA, Calf. Why he is selling to folks on ebay is beyond me. He also carry's McIntosh, B&W, Krell, and a lot more. Maybe in these hard times in Calf, dealers are searching for buyers anyway they can. But I can vouch for Noor that he is indeed a legitimate seller.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15769472
> 
> 
> Cool! I wonder where the improved audio is coming from?
> 
> --Bob



Maybe I'll have improved audio now

















I updated to ARC 2.01 and did the measurements from Scratch.


ARC 2.01 seems to have MY SUB Low Freq Fix in it


----------



## spiderv6

If it IS that one, then it's been on and off ebay for a long time BEFORE the D2v was released, therefore it ain't a D2v.


Again, use an authorised dealer and you *can* get amazing prices. That D2 is not a good deal.......


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks who are experiencing audio dropouts on the D2v or AVM 50v with the V2.02 firmware, please try to keep track of what TYPE of audio you are sending to the Anthem when it happens.


2.0, 5.1, or 7.1


LPCM (and if so, what sampling rate -- e.g., 48KHz) or Bitstream (and if so, which Bitstream -- e.g., TrueHD or DTS-HD MA). I'm assuming this problem is only happening with HDMI audio. If it happens with any other type of audio cabling that is vitally important to report.


Also note the disc (title, and SD-DVD or Blu-Ray) and the time code if you can. If the problem repeats at the same time code that is important to note as well. If the problem occurs only on certain discs, and not on other discs sending the same type of audio, that too is important.


And of course it is important to report which player you are using.


Anthem may have a fix for this soon, but if not these reports will help focus in on what's happening, and whether all owners are seeing the same problems or whether it appears to be limited to just a few units.


--------------------------------------------------------


If you have one of the first batch of D2v units that shipped with V2.00 firmware, and if you are experiencing audio dropouts, you should probably get in touch with Anthem tech support so they can give you access to the V2.02 firmware that is factory installed in units shipping now.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15770120
> 
> 
> Maybe I'll have improved audio now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I updated to ARC 2.01 and did the measurements from Scratch.
> 
> 
> ARC 2.01 seems to have MY SUB Low Freq Fix in it



Yes, but you are still on a D2, right?


He was going from a D2 to a D2v -- both with ARC. I've got no idea what might have changed in the hardware that would give him an audio improvement. Nothing Nick has said would suggest there is an audio improvement in the D2v hardware compared to the D2. For example, it is the same DACs. But of course it will be great news if this pans out as more reports come in!


-------------------------------------


I'm delighted to learn that ARC V2.0.1 may be usable with your "low rider" floor bouncing system, and etc.! If ARC manages to improve your highly tuned system that will be quite something! Please do report details as you get them.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




Bob Pariseau said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15769472
> 
> 
> Cool! I wonder where the improved audio is coming from?
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I'll have improved audio now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I updated to ARC 2.01 and did the measurements from Scratch.
> 
> 
> ARC 2.01 seems to have MY SUB Low Freq Fix in it
Click to expand...


----------



## gostan




Bob Pariseau said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15769472
> 
> 
> Cool! I wonder where the improved audio is coming from?
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perception must be somebody's reality.
> 
> 
> Or he never dialed in his former d2!
Click to expand...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15770124
> 
> 
> If it IS that one, then it's been on and off ebay for a long time BEFORE the D2v was released, therefore it ain't a D2v.
> 
> 
> Again, use an authorised dealer and you *can* get amazing prices. That D2 is not a good deal.......



The listing IRONCORN found shows photos of a factory sealed box labeled as a D2v with V2.02 firmware installed. That photo is obviously not of a D2 box. Of course since the box is still sealed there are no photos of what's inside it.


If you follow in to the dealer details you find the unit listed along with the other things that dealer is currently selling. Following the D2v link in that list gets the text that says "D2" instead of "D2v" and also the 90 day warranty text.


Search eBay for "D2 V 2.02" precisely as I just typed it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15770202
> 
> 
> Perception must be somebody's reality.
> 
> 
> Or he never dialed in his former d2!



Like I said, we'll see how things go as more reports come in.


But I suspect his new D2v is dialed in no better or worse than his prior D2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *V7Sport73* /forum/post/15770110
> 
> 
> I know Noor very well. He is an Anthem dealer in LA, Calf. Why he is selling to folks on ebay is beyond me. He also carry's McIntosh, B&W, Krell, and a lot more. Maybe in these hard times in Calf, dealers are searching for buyers anyway they can. But I can vouch for Noor that he is indeed a legitimate seller.



Thanks for that!


Next time you talk to him, you might want to mention that his store does not come up if you put his zip code into Anthem's Dealer Locator on their site. Fixing that could go a long way towards helping him sell more Anthems!


ETA: Anthem lists the authorized dealer for that zip code as Legato Home Theater in Santa Monica.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15770215
> 
> 
> The listing IRONCORN found shows photos of a factory sealed box labeled as a D2v with V2.02 firmware installed. That photo is obviously not of a D2 box. Of course since the box is still sealed there are no photos of what's inside it.
> 
> 
> If you follow in to the dealer details you find the unit listed along with the other things that dealer is currently selling. Following the D2v link in that list gets the text that says "D2" instead of "D2v" and also the 90 day warranty text.
> 
> 
> Search eBay for "D2 V 2.02" precisely as I just typed it.
> 
> --Bob



Yep, you are right.


It's the same seller who was until recently selling a D2 with exactly the same ad/layout.


And you are right, I discounted him previously as he is not an authorised seller according to the Anthem web site.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15764992
> 
> 
> Since it is failing towards the end of the Measurements, I wonder if it might be an available memory issue? I wouldn't think ARC needs all that much memory to do its thing, but I've never actually looked.
> 
> 
> Are you doing a 7.1 system (I do a 5.1)? Are you doing a separate Music configuration (I do run a separate Music)? Are you doing more than 5 mic positions (I do 5)?
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I am doing a 7.1 system.

Yes, I am doing a separate Music configuration.

No, I am not doing more than 5 mic positions.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15770813
> 
> 
> Yes, I am doing a 7.1 system.
> 
> Yes, I am doing a separate Music configuration.
> 
> No, I am not doing more than 5 mic positions.



I suppose the problem could be related to 7.1, but I would think doing a separate 5.1 Music config would put more demands on it.


Very strange. Does it give you any error message when it fails?

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15770261
> 
> 
> Thanks for that!
> 
> 
> Next time you talk to him, you might want to mention that his store does not come up if you put his zip code into Anthem's Dealer Locator on their site. Fixing that could go a long way towards helping him sell more Anthems!
> 
> 
> ETA: Anthem lists the authorized dealer for that zip code as Legato Home Theater in Santa Monica.
> 
> --Bob



I have no idea what the problem is with the Anthem website (or if the dealers are to blame in some way) but I can tell you that this is not an uncommon problem at all.


The dealer that I purchased my D2 from did not come up as an authorized dealer either. In fact, if it was not for another owner here giving me his info, I never would have known about this dealer.


I had to call Anthem to confirm he was authorized, and sure enough he was. He was surprised to hear that his shop did not come up on the Anthem site.


You would think Anthem and their dealers would do everything possible to make sure that all authorized dealers show up on their site to make locating and purchasing their gear as easy as possible.


Edit: the reason that listing didn't come up for me is that I put in the word "Anthem" in my search. That listing only says "Statement D2".


----------



## yacht422

I have questions re: V2.01 for arc.(new download, for the D2)

bob was most helpful in recommending file management .

however, things have gone from snafu(2.01 no work) to fubar ( 1.25 no work either)

so - - - do i need to uninstall 1.25 prior to installing 2.01?

If everything else has failed( and, after three hours sitting on the floor attempting connections, methinks failure is the requisite expression) where do i go?

with 2.01 the mic file is installed, but, arc no can find

with 1.25, windows complains there are files it cannot find.

i have uninstalled 2.01 three times, have reinstalled the mic files twice - etc-etc-e---

i am not happy about the prospect of re-installing V1.33 -but- what else is there?

any and all recommendations are, of course, appreciated.

walt


----------



## jayray

Here is my info re the dropout issue. D2V

So far two movies, Dark Knight and Kung Fu Panda. Kung Fu no dropout.

Dark Knight continues to have dropout problem. Here is the info.

TrueHD input 48kHz into PS3 firmware 2.60. Output PCM. Sound drops out at 1min 08s. I could repeat this. If I pause it usually restarts the sound. This is a 5.1 sound format.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15771120
> 
> 
> I suppose the problem could be related to 7.1, but I would think doing a separate 5.1 Music config would put more demands on it.
> 
> 
> Very strange. Does it give you any error message when it fails?
> 
> --Bob



I don't think the problem is with 7.1. I have been doing 7.1 since the beginning of ARC. With V1.25, it only happened about 2 or 3 times tops the whole time. So far, with V2.0.1, I am 2 for 2 of having to start over each measurement.


As for the error message, I just get the standard microsoft error message asking if I want to send the error to Microsoft. Their response would probably be, what's ARC? We recommend that you uninstall the application. Anyway, I will see if it happens again during my next measurement. If it does, I will try to capture as much information that I can and send it to Anthem Tech Support (Nick). Like I said, it's not a serious problem. It's just annoying.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15772094
> 
> 
> I have questions re: V2.01 for arc.(new download, for the D2)
> 
> bob was most helpful in recommending file management .
> 
> however, things have gone from snafu(2.01 no work) to fubar ( 1.25 no work either)
> 
> so - - - do i need to uninstall 1.25 prior to installing 2.01?
> 
> If everything else has failed( and, after three hours sitting on the floor attempting connections, methinks failure is the requisite expression) where do i go?
> 
> with 2.01 the mic file is installed, but, arc no can find
> 
> with 1.25, windows complains there are files it cannot find.
> 
> i have uninstalled 2.01 three times, have reinstalled the mic files twice - etc-etc-e---
> 
> i am not happy about the prospect of re-installing V1.33 -but- what else is there?
> 
> any and all recommendations are, of course, appreciated.
> 
> walt



The V1.33 firmware on your Anthem has nothing to do with this problem, and reinstalling it is not necessary.


Time to do a little clean up.


Power down your Anthem using the remote, and then also turn it off using the back panel switch.


Shutdown your computer. Disconnect the serial cable to your Anthem and your ARC mic from the computer. If you are using a USB/serial adapter, disconnect that as well.


Reboot your computer. Leave the Anthem powered off.


Go into Windows Add/Remove programs and REMOVE the Anthem ARC application. If you find more than one in there remove all of them.


When done with that, reboot your computer.


Go to Windows Program Files and open the Anthem folder that will still be in there. It should be empty except for your two licensing/calibration files. There may also be an Anthem Statement D2 folder in Program Files from some older version of ARC. If present, it too should be empty except for a copy of your pair of licensing/calibration files.


Next look on your desktop to see if you have any shortcut icons for ARC left there. If so, delete them.


Now download a fresh copy of ARC V2.01 from the Anthem web site and un-Zip it to get the install kit folder.


Now open up that folder and the ARC V2.0.1 CD folder inside it and you will see the ARC application, the Setup (installer) application, and a few other files. Copy your pair of licensing/calibration files into that same folder -- the one with the Setup program in it.


Next verify that you have the correct two files in there. The names of the two files are made up of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC mic. Verify that the files you have in fact match those two serial numbers. If they don't, stop and report. Do not just rename them or anything like that.


Now reboot, yes again.


Now go back into that downloaded ARC V2.0.1 install folder and run the Setup program to install ARC V2.0.1. Let it complete. No errors? Good.


Reboot again.


Now go back to Program Files and the Anthem folder. The ARC application, your two licensing calibration files (the ones with the numbers you just verified) and a few other things should be in there. There should also be an ARC shortcut icon on your desktop.

*Double click on the ARC shortcut icon on your desktop to run ARC.* Select Advanced mode. In the Help menu, select About. Verify that it says you are running ARC V2.0.1.


Exit ARC and shutdown your computer.


Reconnect the serial cable between the computer and the Anthem (including the USB/Serial adapter if you are using one) and also plug in the ARC mic. Make sure the other end of the mic cable is fully inserted into the socket on the mic itself.


Turn on the back panel switch of the Anthem but do not power it up with the remote.


Boot up your computer.

*Using the shortcut icon on your desktop*, start up the ARC application. Select Advanced mode.


Click on Measure. The application should now power up the Anthem, verify its serial number and verify that your ARC mic is connected.


You can cancel out of the Measurement and start it up again later if you are not ready to Measure now.


If this doesn't sort things out for you, then you will need to call Anthem tech support on Monday.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15772531
> 
> 
> I don't think the problem is with 7.1. I have been doing 7.1 since the beginning of ARC. With V1.25, it only happened about 2 or 3 times tops the whole time. So far, with V2.0.1, I am 2 for 2 of having to start over each measurement.
> 
> 
> As for the error message, I just get the standard microsoft error message asking if I want to send the error to Microsoft. Their response would probably be, what's ARC? We recommend that you uninstall the application. Anyway, I will see if it happens again during my next measurement. If it does, I will try to capture as much information that I can and send it to Anthem Tech Support (Nick). Like I said, it's not a serious problem. It's just annoying.



Sure it's not 7.1 in general or we'd have heard lots of complaints about V1.2.5. I thought it might be an interaction between V2.0.1 and 7.1 on your particular computer. I'm trying to figure out why you might be having this problem but others are not, and in particular why it should wait until near the end of Measurement to trigger. It sounds like some sort of resource problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15772320
> 
> 
> Here is my info re the dropout issue. D2V
> 
> So far two movies, Dark Knight and Kung Fu Panda. Kung Fu no dropout.
> 
> Dark Knight continues to have dropout problem. Here is the info.
> 
> TrueHD input 48kHz into PS3 firmware 2.60. Output PCM. Sound drops out at 1min 08s. I could repeat this. If I pause it usually restarts the sound. This is a 5.1 sound format.
> 
> John



That's good info John. Pass it on to Nick. They certainly have a PS3 for testing, and may even have the Dark Knight disc that they can use to try that time code.


If any of the other D2v owners here have a PS3 and that disc, could you also try that time code to see if you can replicate the problem?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I already sent this info to Nick.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15772710
> 
> 
> That's good info John. Pass it on to Nick. They certainly have a PS3 for testing, and may even have the Dark Knight disc that they can use to try that time code.
> 
> 
> If any of the other D2v owners here have a PS3 and that disc, could you also try that time code to see if you can replicate the problem?
> 
> --Bob



The time for the dropout was *1hr*. 08s, not 1min. Sorry for the error.

John


----------



## zr123

Hey Bob,


We're about 10 days away from having our AVM 50v installed and setup and I have a question for ya.


Our room is going to have a 7.1 setup and say we're watching a Blu-ray or HD DVD that's in 5.1 TrueHD, DTS-HD MA or Uncompressed PCM and we want to force 7.1 but without turning them lossy from lossless... which mode would we set the Anthem too?


----------



## billatlakegeorge




Bob Pariseau said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15769472
> 
> 
> Cool! I wonder where the improved audio is coming from?
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I believe it is the new ARC 2.01 and new measurements.
Click to expand...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15774594
> 
> 
> Well I believe it is the new ARC 2.01 and new measurements.



Ah! OK, I thought you were already using ARC 2.0.1 with your older D2 unit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15774525
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> We're about 10 days away from having our AVM 50v installed and setup and I have a question for ya.
> 
> 
> Our room is going to have a 7.1 setup and say we're watching a Blu-ray or HD DVD that's in 5.1 TrueHD, DTS-HD MA or Uncompressed PCM and we want to force 7.1 but without turning them lossy from lossless... which mode would we set the Anthem too?



See Sections 4.8.8 and 4.8.9 of the manual.


Typically you would use PLIIx-Movie or one of the 7.1 channel THX modes. It's all personal preference, and they'll all do their processing at the full data rate coming in from the player.


Personally I find I prefer to not use the additional THX post processing after ARC is set up. So just PLIIx-Movie.


If you are listening to multi-channel music as from an SACD or a music concert Blu-Ray disc you might prefer PLIIx-Music. The difference is in how content is directed to the rear speakers.


NOTE 1: The modes labeled 6.1 in those two charts will also send content to the rears, but both rear speakers will be sent the same content.


NOTE 2: With 7.1 audio tracks on disc there are no surround modes to choose in the Anthem (since there's no work for the Anthem to do to raise that to more speakers). However you still have the option of turning on the THX post processing.

--Bob


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15774643
> 
> 
> See Sections 4.8.8 and 4.8.9 of the manual.
> 
> 
> Typically you would use PLIIx-Movie or one of the 7.1 channel THX modes. It's all personal preference, and they'll all do their processing at the full data rate coming in from the player.
> 
> 
> Personally I find I prefer to not use the additional THX post processing after ARC is set up. So just PLIIx-Movie.
> 
> 
> If you are listening to multi-channel music as from an SACD or a music concert Blu-Ray disc you might prefer PLIIx-Music. The difference is in how content is directed to the rear speakers.
> 
> 
> NOTE 1: The modes labeled 6.1 in those two charts will also send content to the rears, but both rear speakers will be sent the same content.
> 
> 
> NOTE 2: With 7.1 audio tracks on disc there are no surround modes to choose in the Anthem (since there's no work for the Anthem to do to raise that to more speakers). However you still have the option of turning on the THX post processing.
> 
> --Bob



Excellent, thank you sir!


----------



## facedogg

I am happy to report that with Bob's help on here my AVM-50 is now properly set up and running with the ARC-1! With that said, I'm attaching the results of my first run. I ran in Advanced mode, but did not change any of the targets. My concern is about where the crossover is set for my sub after the upload (it set it at 60Hz). From what I've read here, many people are getting theirs at 120...should I be concerned or is this simply a factor of my room acoustics? Anything else hop out at anyone from this? Thanks again!


-- mike


----------



## AbMagFab

I'm 5 of the 10 days into my wait for my new D2v2...


While I'm waiting, I was wondering if you all sit in your theater while the calibration is running, or if you get out of the room?


With my current AVR, when I run Audyssey, I set up each position, then run out of the room before pressing "go" on the remote. I figure I'm adding some distortion to the measurements if I'm in the room?


But ARC is/seems much more involved, with a PC and graphs and such, and perhaps I need to stay in the room while it's running?


(As a side note - can I download the software to my laptop ahead of time, while I wait for the D2v to arrive?)


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facedogg* /forum/post/15777487
> 
> 
> I am happy to report that with Bob's help on here my AVM-50 is now properly set up and running with the ARC-1! With that said, I'm attaching the results of my first run. I ran in Advanced mode, but did not change any of the targets. My concern is about where the crossover is set for my sub after the upload (it set it at 60Hz). From what I've read here, many people are getting theirs at 120...should I be concerned or is this simply a factor of my room acoustics? Anything else hop out at anyone from this? Thanks again!
> 
> 
> -- mike



Mike:


How did Arc adjust your volume channel levels?


Mine were adjusted to between +9 and +10db across all channels.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15777864
> 
> 
> I'm 5 of the 10 days into my wait for my new D2v2...
> 
> 
> While I'm waiting, I was wondering if you all sit in your theater while the calibration is running, or if you get out of the room?
> 
> 
> With my current AVR, when I run Audyssey, I set up each position, then run out of the room before pressing "go" on the remote. I figure I'm adding some distortion to the measurements if I'm in the room?
> 
> 
> But ARC is/seems much more involved, with a PC and graphs and such, and perhaps I need to stay in the room while it's running?
> 
> 
> (As a side note - can I download the software to my laptop ahead of time, while I wait for the D2v to arrive?)



Well im guessing that when you finally get it all set up and you are ready to play a movie, you will be sitting in the room and not standing outside with a remote.....right....










I guess 'your reflections' you kinda want!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facedogg* /forum/post/15777487
> 
> 
> I am happy to report that with Bob's help on here my AVM-50 is now properly set up and running with the ARC-1! With that said, I'm attaching the results of my first run. I ran in Advanced mode, but did not change any of the targets. My concern is about where the crossover is set for my sub after the upload (it set it at 60Hz). From what I've read here, many people are getting theirs at 120...should I be concerned or is this simply a factor of my room acoustics? Anything else hop out at anyone from this? Thanks again!
> 
> 
> -- mike



This is fine for a first run. Your sub is doing great and the 60Hz bass management crossover is probably good. If you open up your ARC results file in Advanced mode and look at the Targets window you will probably find that the Room Correction "cutoff" for the sub is set to a higher value. Which means ARC is involving the sub in the Room Correction solution even above the bass management crossover.


Here are the things I see:


First, ARC has decided your listening room has little or no Room Gain to preserve. Room Gain is the hump in the Target curves near the crossover frequencies that you'll see in other charts posted here. ARC probably is seeing seeing the dip in Measured results around 100Hz to 150Hz for the RF and C speakers and the very flat result in the LF speaker there, and deciding that the "natural" Room Gain of your room is 0dB or just above (which could make sense if your room has very little natural echo) or negative which doesn't make sense (ARC uses 0dB instead). You can see the Room Gain ARC has detected in the Targets window.


Room Gain is a "desirable" room response characteristic, and ARC works to preserve it even as it is eliminating other room responses. If you like the "flat" sound you are getting in your listening room then great. Many music listeners would agree with you. However a value between 2.5dB and 3.5dB is more normal in common listening rooms, and audio tracks on movies are mixed in the expectation you'll have some Room Gain.


You can "force" ARC to create some Room Gain by changing the value in the Targets window (leave the "force" box checked), accepting that change (which also dismisses the Targets window), and doing a new Calculation. If you like the resulting curves you can Upload them. Note that if you choose to set up a separate ARC configuration for Movie and Music you can use different Room Gain values.


Personally, I like some Room Gain, and so I would suggest you try a value of 2.5dB and see if you like the sound. Note that there's no need to re-Measure to try this. Just change it, Calculate, Upload, and listen.


-------------------------------------------


Next, your high frequencies already look very good, but there are still some modest, residual (uncorrected) errors up there. I would suggest you raise the Max EQ Frequency Target value in the Targets window. Again there is no need to re-Measure. Just accept the new value and re-Calculate. Your Measurements are good enough that I suspect you can push that all the way up to the top allowed value of 20KHz. If you feel pushing it up there is producing too many wiggles in the green Calculated curve at lower frequencies, back off below 20KHz and iterate to find a good compromise setting. When you've got a result you like, Upload and give it a listen.


-------------------------------------------


Next you have a modest amount of residual error in the Center speaker at 150Hz. The dip in the Measured curve there is more than ARC will try to correct (so as not to stress the speaker or amp).


First check whether there is any bass or low mid-range response adjustment on the speaker itself that you may have set incorrectly. If you don't find that, then the C speaker is probably coupling strongly to a room cancellation null at those frequencies. You can address this by shifting the speaker a bit either vertically or near/away from the wall behind it. You can also address this by adding some "bass trap" room treatments that reduce the reflections from the wall that are contributing to this. Any such changes will require you to re-Measure.


Right now the max residual error is around 2.5dB which you could also just ignore. But if you add a Room Gain hump that error will likely become larger.


------------------------------------------


Finally, ARC is using quite a high crossover for your surround speakers, which means ARC feels their bass performance is weak. That could be just the nature of your surround speakers, but the impact is that the timbre of sound will likely vary between the front speakers and the surrounds as you pan around the room. ARC's application of bass steering to the sub up there will fix a lot of that, but it is worth a look.


First check that your surrounds are wired correctly. Some speakers have separate jacks for bass and for higher frequencies which are usually joined together by a bus bar at the speaker so that you only have to run one pair of wire to the speaker. Play some stereo content (e.g. a CD) in Stereo All audio mode and go put your ear up close to each driver in both surround speakers and make sure all the drivers (and in particular the bass driver) are producing sound.


Next check if there is some bass response adjustment available on the surround speakers. For example, some speakers have a bass port plug that can be removed.


Any changes you make as a result of this will require re-Measurement.


Don't worry too much about this -- ARC has probably arranged the bass steering to work well up there. But if there is an easy fix, you should fix it.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan

How many of you with D2's have installed ARC 2.01 firmware? I tried to get an upgrade from our dealer and was told it is for the D2v only. Is this true?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15778245
> 
> 
> Well im guessing that when you finally get it all set up and you are ready to play a movie, you will be sitting in the room and not standing outside with a remote.....right....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess 'your reflections' you kinda want!!



But aren't I supposed to put the mic where my head is located? That's a little hard to do when my head is there...


Plus I won't have a PC in my lap, with big flat reflecting surfaces, when watching a movie.


But it sounds like people generally stay in the room when they're calibrating? Do you sit in the main seat with the laptop, or off in a corner, or something else?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15777864
> 
> 
> I'm 5 of the 10 days into my wait for my new D2v2...
> 
> 
> While I'm waiting, I was wondering if you all sit in your theater while the calibration is running, or if you get out of the room?
> 
> 
> With my current AVR, when I run Audyssey, I set up each position, then run out of the room before pressing "go" on the remote. I figure I'm adding some distortion to the measurements if I'm in the room?
> 
> 
> But ARC is/seems much more involved, with a PC and graphs and such, and perhaps I need to stay in the room while it's running?
> 
> 
> (As a side note - can I download the software to my laptop ahead of time, while I wait for the D2v to arrive?)



You can download and install the ARC software ahead of time, but you will need to manually transfer the two licensing/calibration files that come on your ARC install CD if you do that. There's nothing you can do with the ARC application until your hardware gets there, so you might as well wait.


Typically you'll have your computer set up between the screen and the ARC mic positions. It is a good idea to get out of the way of the direct line from each speaker to the mic. ARC starts with LF and moves clockwise around the room.


What I do is use a wireless mouse which lets me get out of the way behind the seating (ARC mic) positions while still seeing the laptop screen enough to put the pointer on the button and start the next set of sweep tones.


Some other folks do this by just sitting on the floor.


During the Measurements, ARC will pause to tell you to reposition the mic, and then, at your command, run sweep tones from each of the speakers at that mic position. There's no interaction with charts, etc., while this is going on. At the end of a Measurements pass (all mic positions) ARC writes the Measurement results to a file on disc. Then you do Calculations (with or without fiddling as you choose) and Upload -- both of which can be done right at the computer as you are done with the mic unless you decide you want to start a new Measurement. If you run ARC in Advanced mode (which is my recommendation) you get to control the start of each Calculation and the Upload. If you run ARC in the simple mode it will automatically do a Calculation (using default settings) and Upload after the Measurements file is created. Your Calculated results are added in to the same Measurements file.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15778245
> 
> 
> Well im guessing that when you finally get it all set up and you are ready to play a movie, you will be sitting in the room and not standing outside with a remote.....right....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess 'your reflections' you kinda want!!



Actually no, because you probably have a mic position right about where your head would be if you sat down.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/15778292
> 
> 
> How many of you with D2's have installed ARC 2.01 firmware? I tried to get an upgrade from our dealer and was told it is for the D2v only. Is this true?



ARC V2.0.1 is for all units that support ARC including the D1 and AVM-40/ARC.


I am currently using ARC V2.0.1 with my D2 (firmware V1.33).


It is likely your dealer is confusing the new ARC V2.0.1 Windows PC application with the new firmware (V2.02). The new V2.02 firmware is only for the D2v and AVM 50v hardware.


ETA: ARC V2.0.1 is a new version of the ARC setup application that runs on your Windows PC. There is no new software to install in your D2 to use this version of ARC (presuming you are already on the "official" V1.33 firmware on your D2). You can download ARC V2.0.1 from Anthem's public download page for the D2. Install it on your PC, and run it to set up and Upload the new, improved results to your D2.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15778411
> 
> 
> Actually no, because you probably have a mic position right about where your head would be if you sat down.
> 
> --Bob



Well yes, but I dont normally watch alone. Maybe I should get some extra cushions plumped up to represent the wife and kids? And then theres the cats.....










Im kidding, but let's not take this to the Nth degree, and hiding behind the sofa or standing outside the room while measuring is, for me, getting a bit silly.


I'm sure others will disagree.


----------



## akopperl

I'm expecting delivery of an AVM50v later this week and had a few questions about ARC.


Is there a manual specifically for ARC? I see a few pages in the owner's manuals for the AVM50v and D2v - but nothing extensive.


Does ARC calculate the speaker distance and levels like Audyssey, etc.? Also, does it calculate the crossovers for each speaker? From what I have read in some of the threads, it seems that it calculates a cutoff frequency, which is different than a crossover. What is a cutoff frequency? If I set my center speaker to large in the initial setup and ARC sets the cutoff frequency at 100 Hz - does that mean that the center will be run full-range, but there is no correction below 100 Hz?


Any help or guidance with ARC would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/15778742
> 
> 
> I'm expecting delivery of an AVM50v later this week and had a few questions about ARC.
> 
> 
> Is there a manual specifically for ARC? I see a few pages in the owner's manuals for the AVM50v and D2v - but nothing extensive.
> 
> 
> Does ARC calculate the speaker distance and levels like Audyssey, etc.? Also, does it calculate the crossovers for each speaker? From what I have read in some of the threads, it seems that it calculates a cutoff frequency, which is different than a crossover. What is a cutoff frequency? If I set my center speaker to large in the initial setup and ARC sets the cutoff frequency at 100 Hz - does that mean that the center will be run full-range, but there is no correction below 100 Hz?
> 
> 
> Any help or guidance with ARC would be greatly appreciated.



In addition to Section 3.15 in the Manual, read the ARC related post links collected in the first post of this thread.


You need to set speaker distances manually. You can do this before or after doing ARC Measurements.


You also need to set Phase/Polarity adjustment on your subwoofer manually. If you only have one sub, you can do this before or after doing ARC Measurements (since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time, its Measurements are not affected by Phase). If you have more than one sub you must set Phase/Polarity for the combo of subs before doing ARC Measurement. Again, see those links in the first post.


It is also recommended that you set Setup > Speaker Calibration > Noise Level and also the internal volume control built into your sub(s) before doing ARC Measurement. Again, see those links in the first post.


ARC calculates crossovers and speaker volume trims and Uploads them into the Setup menu. It also calculates the Room Correction parameters which are Uploaded into a special memory (not visible in the menus on the Anthem).


A crossover specifies where roll off begins for bass management. A cutoff specifies where ARC begins to reduce its efforts to adjust that speaker for Room Correction in the vicinity of the crossovers. In prior ARC versions, ARC was constrained to use the same values for cutoffs and crossovers. In the new ARC V2.0.1 cutoffs and crossovers may be set differently by ARC, which provides additional flexibility to improve the solution.


There is also a Max EQ Frequency target parameter which specifies how high up ARC will attempt to provide correction. By default ARC stops at 5KHz. You can change that up to 20KHz.


Setting speakers to "full range" in the ARC Targets forces ARC to use no crossover for them -- no bass steering. There is still a "cutoff" calculated by ARC for those speakers. If you prefer to force ARC to attempt correction all the way down for those speakers you can change the "cutoff" value to 25Hz in the Targets window after Measurement and before Calculation. In general this is usually only an issue for people setting up a configuration (in particular a Music configuration) without a subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## Macktrec1

History: I upgraded my AVM30HD to now a AVM50 w/ARC @1.33v. I shut-down my system for about two weeks to replace my PS3 and TV. When I turned back on my system it is slow, very slow. It takes about a 45s-1min. before it starts up. The remote commands are sent and the screen/system do not react like they used too. I also have no audio even in test mode (my amps are all connected and powered up). I tried downloading 1.33v again and my laptop gave me a notice "Failure to exit debugg mode". The system was working fine before and has been rarely used. Any ideas on what to do would help. My last upgrade was putting in ARC in November. Please help. Any suggestions/ideas on what has happened.


Thank you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Macktrec1* /forum/post/15778937
> 
> 
> History: I upgraded my AVM30HD to now a AVM50 w/ARC @1.33v. I shut-down my system for about two weeks to replace my PS3 and TV. When I turned back on my system it is slow, very slow. It takes about a 45s-1min. before it starts up. The remote commands are sent and the screen/system do not react like they used too. I also have no audio even in test mode (my amps are all connected and powered up). I tried downloading 1.33v again and my laptop gave me a notice "Failure to exit debugg mode". The system was working fine before and has been rarely used. Any ideas on what to do would help. My last upgrade was putting in ARC in November. Please help. Any suggestions/ideas on what has happened.
> 
> 
> Thank you.



Call Anthem tech support.


They will tell you how to download the Flash Eraser (a Windows PC application) which will reset your Anthem. At that point you will be able to re-install the V1.33 firmware and things will be working again.


Please do give them the details, as you know them, of how it got into this state. This problem has been reported by a few people and apparently is related to leaving the unit without wall power for a while -- as if some sort of internal battery is running down. I don't believe Anthem has figured this one out yet, so any details you can give them will be helpful.


ETA: A question. Did you by any chance have Timers enabled in your Anthem intended to make it power up at certain times of day?

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer

Question to anyone with a D2v or 50v and a bitstreaming HD-DVD or BR player...


When listening to a lossless codec (i.e. Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD MA) and you hit the status button on the remote, what bitrate do you see on the OSD?


Does it "chase" the source?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15777864
> 
> 
> I'm 5 of the 10 days into my wait for my new D2v2...
> 
> 
> While I'm waiting, I was wondering if you all sit in your theater while the calibration is running, or if you get out of the room?
> 
> 
> With my current AVR, when I run Audyssey, I set up each position, then run out of the room before pressing "go" on the remote. I figure I'm adding some distortion to the measurements if I'm in the room?
> 
> 
> But ARC is/seems much more involved, with a PC and graphs and such, and perhaps I need to stay in the room while it's running?



I stay in the room, but:


*I make sure to never be between a speaker and the mic

*I stay still - avoiding any extra noise

*I sit on the floor so that I'm not inadvertently blocking reflections - since each pass is measuring both direct AND reflected sound


I wish that ARC had a five second count down on each position so I could leave the room. However, I think you can go overboard with this! As long as you don't leave doors and windows open, make noise, or unduly bias the measurements, you should be fine.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/15779219
> 
> 
> As long as you don't leave doors and windows open, make noise, or unduly bias the measurements, you should be fine.



Why not? I make up different corrections for the seasons. In the Summer, the drapes and windows are open. In the Winter, they are closed. The door to the dining room is always open because it eliminates a significant modal peak in a completely benign way.


----------



## spiderv6

and dont forget to account for the fact that the plants grow faster and bushier in the summer than they do in the winter.....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15769385
> 
> 
> yeap, my luck...
> 
> I don't know if I need to load v1.22 before upgrade. status button still indicates v1.33 on avm50



ANY LUCK today connecting with *NICK* and getting

your System back online?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/15779548
> 
> 
> Why not? I make up different corrections for the seasons. In the Summer, the drapes and windows are open. In the Winter, they are closed. The door to the dining room is always open because it eliminates a significant modal peak in a completely benign way.



Valid point, but I assumed (possibly incorrectly) that most AVM50/D2 owners might have dedicated spaces. In controlled acoustic spaces, opening doorways and windows more often has a negative effect on room response - your situation is an edge case (and a lucky one).


----------



## mothaselin

Please forgive a novice to this thread. I am considering a Statement D2 v2 and does this have HDMI 1.3 or not? Also is it very hard to set up? My system is 1 oppo, 1 blu ray and Direct Tv and a Local cable network and would love all to work with all of the latest codecs and all Hd surround codecs. Please advise. I appreciate comments.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/15779682
> 
> 
> Valid point, but I assumed (possibly incorrectly) that most AVM50/D2 owners might have dedicated spaces. In controlled acoustic spaces, opening doorways and windows more often has a negative effect on room response - your situation is an edge case (and a lucky one).



I think people assume that sealing up the space is always correct. In fact, I had assumed as much, even in my non-dedicated room. Since the house is occupied only by my wife and me, there's no reason to close the room off but it was not until I did some careful measurements that I found that this particular door opening was useful. The other two doors remain shut.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/15779729
> 
> 
> Please forgive a novice to this thread. I am considering a Statement D2 v2 and does this have HDMI 1.3 or not? Also is it very hard to set up? My system is 1 oppo, 1 blu ray and Direct Tv and a Local cable network and would love all to work with all of the latest codecs and all Hd surround codecs. Please advise. I appreciate comments.



The Anthem Statement D2v (formerly known as the D2 v.2) uses HDMI V1.3c, which is the latest HDMI spec. HDMI V1.3 has come in 4 flavors over time. Original HDMI V1.3, V1.3a, V1.3b, and now V1.3c. The difference is the rigor of the specifications and the testing needed to get certified.


The D2v is not really all that hard to set up compared to other Audio/Video processors. Its default settings are pretty reasonable. However if you've never set up an AV processor before just the shear number of choices will be daunting.


You can download the user manual from the Anthem web site. Since they don't have a direct link up yet for D2v downloads, what you do is download and unzip the folder for the ARC V2.0.1 software. You'll find a PDF file of the D2v manual in there.


You'll also find quite a few helpful tips in the post links collected in the first post of this thread. For example, the "Video Calibration for Non-ISF Techs" post will give you the basics of setting up video.


And this thread is full of people with all sorts of levels of experience, so even the most newbie questions will get answered.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/15779856
> 
> 
> I think people assume that sealing up the space is always correct. In fact, I had assumed as much, even in my non-dedicated room. Since the house is occupied only by my wife and me, there's no reason to close the room off but it was not until I did some careful measurements that I found that this particular door opening was useful. The other two doors remain shut.



The key of course is to Measure the room when it is in the same configuration you intend to have while using it. If you don't care about certain options (as with Kal's door) then you can Measure both ways and see which works better.

--Bob


----------



## facedogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15778277
> 
> 
> This is fine for a first run. Your sub is doing great and the 60Hz bass management crossover is probably good. If you open up your ARC results file in Advanced mode and look at the Targets window you will probably find that the Room Correction "cutoff" for the sub is set to a higher value. Which means ARC is involving the sub in the Room Correction solution even above the bass management crossover.
> 
> 
> Here are the things I see:
> 
> 
> First, ARC has decided your listening room has little or no Room Gain to preserve. Room Gain is the hump in the Target curves near the crossover frequencies that you'll see in other charts posted here. ARC probably is seeing seeing the dip in Measured results around 100Hz to 150Hz for the RF and C speakers and the very flat result in the LF speaker there, and deciding that the "natural" Room Gain of your room is 0dB or just above (which could make sense if your room has very little natural echo) or negative which doesn't make sense (ARC uses 0dB instead). You can see the Room Gain ARC has detected in the Targets window.
> 
> 
> Room Gain is a "desirable" room response characteristic, and ARC works to preserve it even as it is eliminating other room responses. If you like the "flat" sound you are getting in your listening room then great. Many music listeners would agree with you. However a value between 2.5dB and 3.5dB is more normal in common listening rooms, and audio tracks on movies are mixed in the expectation you'll have some Room Gain.
> 
> 
> You can "force" ARC to create some Room Gain by changing the value in the Targets window (leave the "force" box checked), accepting that change (which also dismisses the Targets window), and doing a new Calculation. If you like the resulting curves you can Upload them. Note that if you choose to set up a separate ARC configuration for Movie and Music you can use different Room Gain values.
> 
> 
> Personally, I like some Room Gain, and so I would suggest you try a value of 2.5dB and see if you like the sound. Note that there's no need to re-Measure to try this. Just change it, Calculate, Upload, and listen.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Next, your high frequencies already look very good, but there are still some modest, residual (uncorrected) errors up there. I would suggest you raise the Max EQ Frequency Target value in the Targets window. Again there is no need to re-Measure. Just accept the new value and re-Calculate. Your Measurements are good enough that I suspect you can push that all the way up to the top allowed value of 20KHz. If you feel pushing it up there is producing too many wiggles in the green Calculated curve at lower frequencies, back off below 20KHz and iterate to find a good compromise setting. When you've got a result you like, Upload and give it a listen.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Next you have a modest amount of residual error in the Center speaker at 150Hz. The dip in the Measured curve there is more than ARC will try to correct (so as not to stress the speaker or amp).
> 
> 
> First check whether there is any bass or low mid-range response adjustment on the speaker itself that you may have set incorrectly. If you don't find that, then the C speaker is probably coupling strongly to a room cancellation null at those frequencies. You can address this by shifting the speaker a bit either vertically or near/away from the wall behind it. You can also address this by adding some "bass trap" room treatments that reduce the reflections from the wall that are contributing to this. Any such changes will require you to re-Measure.
> 
> 
> Right now the max residual error is around 2.5dB which you could also just ignore. But if you add a Room Gain hump that error will likely become larger.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Finally, ARC is using quite a high crossover for your surround speakers, which means ARC feels their bass performance is weak. That could be just the nature of your surround speakers, but the impact is that the timbre of sound will likely vary between the front speakers and the surrounds as you pan around the room. ARC's application of bass steering to the sub up there will fix a lot of that, but it is worth a look.
> 
> 
> First check that your surrounds are wired correctly. Some speakers have separate jacks for bass and for higher frequencies which are usually joined together by a bus bar at the speaker so that you only have to run one pair of wire to the speaker. Play some stereo content (e.g. a CD) in Stereo All audio mode and go put your ear up close to each driver in both surround speakers and make sure all the drivers (and in particular the bass driver) are producing sound.
> 
> 
> Next check if there is some bass response adjustment available on the surround speakers. For example, some speakers have a bass port plug that can be removed.
> 
> 
> Any changes you make as a result of this will require re-Measurement.
> 
> 
> Don't worry too much about this -- ARC has probably arranged the bass steering to work well up there. But if there is an easy fix, you should fix it.
> 
> --Bob



As I've been reading through the 600+ pages of this thread I've been continually impressed with your expertise Bob, and now even more so. You nailed my room dead on with each assumption. I have a dedicated room with no windows and two rows of theater seating. At the first reflection point on the walls I have hung some heavy drapes, as when I initially built this room there were severe echoes created by simply talking. I (possibly incorrectly) assumed that I should remove these by hanging the drapes, but is this where I am losing my room gain? My goal here is for 90% movie viewing and 10% music. I've attached my default targets for reference, but the room gain was established as 1.34.


With regards to the center speaker, it is actually set about a foot closer to the front wall than the left and right speakers, so your recommendation of moving it forward a foot may help here as well. I'm guessing I may be getting some destructive interference from the reflections off of the fronts which are positioned slightly ahead. This was simply done due to the wife's furniture requests, but sound is more important here .


Finally, Anthem and Paradigm must be working together here, as you've correctly discovered that the only set of speakers in the room that aren't timbre matched are the surrounds. I have Studio 100's in front, with the Studio 590 center, but I am still using my old ADP 190s as surrounds. I'll do plenty of listening here to see if the ARC can move the bass to compensate, but if not I'll be in the market for some ADP 590's.


My next course of action will be to do new calculations with the added room gain and test that tonite along with moving the max target up to see if we can get some smoother high freq curves, and then move the center to be in line with the mains to try and eliminate that reflection....I'll get the mirror out again to make sure the drapes are correctly positioned for the center as well  Thanks again!


-- mike


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15779132
> 
> 
> Question to anyone with a D2v or 50v and a bitstreaming HD-DVD or BR player...
> 
> 
> When listening to a lossless codec (i.e. Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD MA) and you hit the status button on the remote, what bitrate do you see on the OSD?
> 
> 
> Does it "chase" the source?



Lakeview terrace in Dolby truehd bitstreamed shows as 48 kHz on the d2v & 48khz as the source on my pioneer BDP


----------



## akopperl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15778924
> 
> 
> In addition to Section 3.15 in the Manual, read the ARC related post links collected in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> ARC calculates crossovers and speaker volume trims and Uploads them into the Setup menu. It also calculates the Room Correction parameters which are Uploaded into a special memory (not visible in the menus on the Anthem).
> 
> 
> A crossover specifies where roll off begins for bass management. A cutoff specifies where ARC begins to reduce its efforts to adjust that speaker for Room Correction in the vicinity of the crossovers. In prior ARC versions, ARC was constrained to use the same values for cutoffs and crossovers. In the new ARC V2.0.1 cutoffs and crossovers may be set differently by ARC, which provides additional flexibility to improve the solution.--Bob



Thank you for the reply - I will read the links in the first post.


A few more questions:


1) If ARC updates the crossovers I manually select, will I see the changes when I review the crossover settings in the menu screens or are the new crossovers only stored in the special memory?


2) Since you cannot view the special memory - is there any designation that ARC is engaged and can it be toggled on/off?


Thanks


----------



## davidhoenig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/15734451
> 
> 
> Vista will work with the Keyspan USB adapter but ARC may not work. I have tried it under Window7 and it cannot find the usb microphone.
> 
> If the drive in your notebook is removable (like thinkpad), I would suggest to get another drive and install WinXP on it.



I just plugged in my ARC microphone to a laptop with a fresh copy of the Windows 7 beta. It was not an upgraded Vista image. It recognized the ARC-1 microphone right away.


I need to grab a keyspan USB adapter yet, but at least we know the ARC mic will work. I will validate the ARC software/measurement taking under Windows 7 and post the results this week.


Overall, I have found Windows 7 to be a improvement in every way imaginable over Vista, even in its beta form. Let's hope things stay that way when I try working with measurements and uploading them to my Anthem.


----------



## facedogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15778120
> 
> 
> Mike:
> 
> 
> How did Arc adjust your volume channel levels?
> 
> 
> Mine were adjusted to between +9 and +10db across all channels.



Here are how mine were adjusted on the initial pass (no added room gain, max freq 5k)

Left Front: +1.5

Center: +1.5

Right Front: +2.0

Right Surround: -2.0

Left Surround: -1.5

Sub: -4.5


I'm still playing around with Bob's suggestions, so I'll monitor this and let you know if they change drastically.


-- mike


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15779132
> 
> 
> Question to anyone with a D2v or 50v and a bitstreaming HD-DVD or BR player...
> 
> 
> When listening to a lossless codec (i.e. Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD MA) and you hit the status button on the remote, what bitrate do you see on the OSD?
> 
> 
> Does it "chase" the source?



Will check this tomorrow for you. I can only do this with my HDDVD player. PS3 is my other player.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facedogg* /forum/post/15780767
> 
> 
> As I've been reading through the 600+ pages of this thread I've been continually impressed with your expertise Bob, and now even more so. You nailed my room dead on with each assumption. I have a dedicated room with no windows and two rows of theater seating. At the first reflection point on the walls I have hung some heavy drapes, as when I initially built this room there were severe echoes created by simply talking. I (possibly incorrectly) assumed that I should remove these by hanging the drapes, but is this where I am losing my room gain? My goal here is for 90% movie viewing and 10% music. I've attached my default targets for reference, but the room gain was established as 1.34.



Thanks for the kind words.


There are two goals with Room Gain: First, producing audio that sounds natural when compared to ambient sounds also happening in the same room (e.g., people talking). This is why ARC tries to detect the "natural" Room Gain of the room and preserve it. Second, matching the expectations of the people who mixed the audio track to begin with. In your case I think forcing another dB or so of Room Gain would be worth a shot. I don't think you need to fiddle with your drapes. Try 2.5dB of Room Gain "forced" by ARC and see if you like the sound with movies. If you feel like going through the effort of setting up a separate Music configuration, you might leave it at the 1.34dB that ARC found or push it up only a bit further -- say to 2dB. By the way, if you fix that dip in your Center speaker, ARC might decide your room has a bit more "natural" Room Gain anyway.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/15781271
> 
> 
> Thank you for the reply - I will read the links in the first post.
> 
> 
> A few more questions:
> 
> 
> 1) If ARC updates the crossovers I manually select, will I see the changes when I review the crossover settings in the menu screens or are the new crossovers only stored in the special memory?
> 
> 
> 2) Since you cannot view the special memory - is there any designation that ARC is engaged and can it be toggled on/off?
> 
> 
> Thanks



The crossovers and speaker volume trims that ARC Uploads will be visible in the Setup > Speaker Configuration and Setup > Speaker Calibration menus. In fact, it is wise to do a Save User and/or Installer Settings after you have checked in Setup to verify the Upload seems to have worked correctly. This captures those settings into those memories so that you don't accidentally screw up your ARC setup later by reloading from either of them.


The "cutoffs" ARC is using are shown in the Targets window. Open your ARC results file in Advanced mode and click on Targets.


The Setup > Source Setup menu has a Room EQ = On/Off line for whether the ARC Room Correction processing is to be used for that source. However be aware that doing A/B comparisons with and without ARC is not quite as simple as just toggling that setting. This is because the crossovers and speaker volume trims that ARC Uploads remain in effect even when Room EQ = OFF for a source (and these may not be the settings you would have chosen yourself when doing a manual setup). Also, turning off ARC re-enables the simpler pre-ARC EQ stuff in the Anthem -- for example the Center EQ and the Room Resonance Filter.


Short of setting up two Anthems in parallel, the only real way to get a feel for what ARC is doing for you is to take your best shot at setting up audio manually without ARC -- using the tools in the Anthem such as separately adjustable crossovers and the Room Resonance Filter. Listen and get used to how good that sounds. Then do an ARC setup and play some stuff you are most familiar with. For most people this is an epiphany moment -- ARC sounds so much better it knocks you over.


-----------------------------------------------


You should not fiddle with the crossovers or speaker volume trims that ARC uploads as it will break the solution ARC has found. If you are hearing a problem, take a look at the ARC charts and see if there's a solution on the ARC setup side of things.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15781150
> 
> 
> Lakeview terrace in Dolby truehd bitstreamed shows as 48 kHz on the d2v & 48khz as the source on my pioneer GDP



Looking for the bitrate, not sampling rate.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15781489
> 
> 
> Will check this tomorrow for you. I can only do this with my HDDVD player. PS3 is my other player.
> 
> John



Thanks.. look forward to see what it does say.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Now Hear This!*


Three heads ups folks. First, I know of at least one example where a new D2v was delivered with serious audio issues. The unit had V2.02 firmware factory installed. The issues included nasty, loud, digital noise and rumbles from the Speaker Calibration menu, loud crackling from the surround speakers, and audio steering errors with 2 channel sources (Stereo Mode ended up delivering sound to ALL SPEAKERS! even though the display said only the LF/RF/Sub were active). *These nasty problems were fixed by Re-Installing the V2.02 Firmware On Top of Itself!*


So if you get a new D2v or AVM 50v and it is exhibiting nasty problems, don't panic. Try a firmware re-install. Anthem has been informed.


-------------------------------------------------


Second, Nick tells me that a new "test" version of ARC is due out possibly tomorrow (Tuesday). Apparently the only change is to fix a problem in very low frequency sub output for those rare users who are trying a Max Eq Frequency *LOWER* than the default 5KHz setting. I'm assuming it will appear on the password protected download page.


I'll try it, because it's the sort of crazy thing I do. But for most folks already on ARC V2.0.1 there's likely no need to rush to change to it. I don't know what version number it will have yet.


-------------------------------------------------


Third, I have verified that the Settings Backup utility does *NOT* backup or restore the settings in the Video Source Adjust menu. You will, indeed, need to use the Live Video Settings Editor utility if you want to back up your Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file or restore from a PC file. This is also useful for transferring settings to a new unit -- e.g., from a D2 to a D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Doright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15766029
> 
> 
> You'll have to wait until Monday. There's no way for you to fix this yourself.
> 
> 
> However you don't have to wait for them to send you a new CD. Give Anthem tech support a call with your tale of woe and they will be able to generate and email to you the pair of licensing/calibration files you need.
> 
> 
> They will need the correct serial number for your Anthem unit, and also the correct serial number for your ARC mic. They may need you to email your current pair of files to them (I don't know if they have an easier way to get the proper mic calibration data for your mic). They'll tell you if so.
> 
> 
> Copy the corrected pair of files they email back to you into the Anthem Folder in Windows Program Files -- the same location where the ARC application itself and the two bogus files are installed now. Be sure to keep a safe backup copy of your corrected pair of files since you can't depend on the CD as your backup for those.
> 
> 
> ETA: By the way, I'm curious. Did your new ARC kit come with ARC V1.2.5 or with the just released ARC V2.0.1? If it came with V1.2.5, then be aware that the V2.0.1 improved version is available for download from the Anthem web site. You'll still need the new licensing/calibration files from Anthem tech support (the same pair of files will work with any version of ARC), but getting V2.0.1 now will save you having to upgrade later. V2.0.1 installs on top of V1.2.5 without any difficulty so it's no problem that you might have already installed the V1.2.5 version. Just add in the corrected pair of files when you get them.
> 
> 
> ETA 2: The two licensing and calibration files are easy to spot. Their file names are made up of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem combined with the serial number of your ARC mic.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


They e-mailed me the correct files and I got everything installed this afternoon. Everything went smoothly.

Would you mind taking a look at the attached files and let me know what you think?


Also, do I have to go into the source setup of each devise and turn Equalizer "ON"? I thought I read somewhere that this would happen by default when you load the ARC.


Thank you in advance for your input!!!


Tony


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/15781301
> 
> 
> I just plugged in my ARC microphone to a laptop with a fresh copy of the Windows 7 beta. It was not an upgraded Vista image. It recognized the ARC-1 microphone right away.
> 
> ...



For me the OS had no problem detecting the microphone, it was just the ARC software that could not read it. If you have successfully run a full ARC calibration under Win7 then I will try to re-install the software on my notebook.


----------



## Macktrec1

Thank you Bob for the recommendation. I will call this in to Anthem and let you know the outcome. No, I do not have any Timers enabled.


----------



## MStanic

Okay, just picked this bad boy up. However, I have an issue that is very weird. It appears that the Front Right XLR connector on the back of the D2V will not emit a test tone in calibration setup.


I connect the speakers using the XLR connectors and all emit the test tone except when it's connected to the XLR labeled Front Right. I know it's not the wires or amp or speaker because as soon as I move the XLR to Front Left on the back of the D2V I get the test tone to the Front Right Speaker. My speaker wires for that part of the XLR connection of the amp run to the Front Right speaker and the test tone works when I move it to Front Left XLR connector on the D2V.


What's odd is that I get audio from the speaker just not the calibration test tone. Any ideas as this is kind of a bummer now. I reset factory defaults but no dice.


----------



## MStanic

New Twist.


Manual won't send the Test tone to the Front Right speaker but Auto will. I always use Manual. Auto works and sends the test tone ... just not Manual mode. Does it matter then..is this a software issue?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/15782502
> 
> 
> New Twist.
> 
> 
> Manual won't send the Test tone to the Front Right speaker but Auto will. I always use Manual. Auto works and sends the test tone ... just not Manual mode. Does it matter then..is this a software issue?



This appears to be a bug in the V2.02 software. We've had a few posts reporting it here now. Anthem has been alerted.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Doright* /forum/post/15782050
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> They e-mailed me the correct files and I got everything installed this afternoon. Everything went smoothly.
> 
> Would you mind taking a look at the attached files and let me know what you think?
> 
> 
> Also, do I have to go into the source setup of each devise and turn Equalizer "ON"? I thought I read somewhere that this would happen by default when you load the ARC.
> 
> 
> Thank you in advance for your input!!!
> 
> 
> Tony



Go into Setup > Source Setup for each source and confirm that Room EQ = ON is set. If not, turn it ON. This enables ARC room correction for each source. The first time you do an ARC Upload this is supposed to happen, but it takes only a few moments to check and be sure. After the first Upload, ARC leaves those settings alone in case you have decided to turn any of them off for some reason. If you are using overlayed input definitions with different settings (e.g., DVD1 vs. DVD2) check this for each of them.


-----------------------------------------------


Your charts also show a room with only a small Room Gain hump -- perhaps 1.0 to 1.5dB. Open your saved file of ARC results in Advanced mode and click on Targets to bring up the Targets window which will show you the precise value. I see nothing in your Measured curves that might have fooled ARC here (the closest thing is the dip near 200Hz in the LF speaker), so this may very well represent the true "natural" Room Gain for your room. Many people prefer a bit more Room Gain. I would suggest you try around 2.5dB or even a little higher. See the discussion on Room Gain about a dozen posts further back for more info.


All of your speakers appear to be doing well in bass. You sub is doing exceptionally well. No problems there.


However your speakers could use a little more help in the high frequencies. Try raising the Max EQ Frequency Target in the Targets window -- accept that change and re-Calculate. If you like the curves you see, do an Upload and give it a listen. No need to re-Measure.


With the exception of your LS/RS speakers, all your curves look good enough that you might be able to push that all the way up to 20KHz without the lower frequency results starting to wobble too much. Fiddle around with a few different calculations and see if 20KHz looks fine or if you need to back that off to a lower, compromise setting.


Now your LS/RS speakers have significant dips at 5KHz and 15KHz that are beyond the 6dB of correction ARC will provide (a limit set to keep from stressing the speakers and amps). It doesn't look like a broken tweeter. It might be a grill or other obstruction in front of the tweeter, or it might just be that you have to point those two speakers better. If they are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to the vertical pointing as it is quite common for speakers to exhibit poorer dispersion of high frequencies in the vertical direction than in the horizontal.


If you push Max EQ Frequency all the way up, ARC will correct about 3/4 of the error you've got up there in LS/RS -- which will leave a fairly small residual error -- not bad. But if you can improve their Measured curves even by 3dB up there ARC may be able to give you complete correction for the rest. Any changes you make to those speakers will require re-Measurement.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/15782051
> 
> 
> For me the OS had no problem detecting the microphone, it was just the ARC software that could not read it. If you have successfully run a full ARC calibration under Win7 then I will try to re-install the software on my notebook.



ARC uses a Microsoft audio input framework that may not be included in a minimal install of Windows. That would be another thing to check. If ARC is finding the mic and verifying that it is an ARC mic then the USB stuff itself is working, so the audio input framework would be the next logical culprit.

--Bob


----------



## Murat

Can anybody tell me if Anthem's D2 is multi voltage or not. I know the ones that are sold in N. America are all 110V but do they have a switch or something that might enable them to take 220V?


Most of such electronics have a transformers inside which is already capable of handling 220V (most companies put such transformers in order to save production costs) so they don't have to change parts for exports. It's usually very easy to change the voltage by a switch or by changing the cable connections.


Can anybody confirm this?


----------



## spiderv6

It is not multi voltage


----------



## spiderv6

It is not multi voltage


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/15783657
> 
> 
> Can anybody tell me if Anthem's D2 is multi voltage or not. I know the ones that are sold in N. America are all 110V but do they have a switch or something that might enable them to take 220V?
> 
> 
> Most of such electronics have a transformers inside which is already capable of handling 220V (most companies put such transformers in order to save production costs) so they don't have to change parts for exports. It's usually very easy to change the voltage by a switch or by changing the cable connections.
> 
> 
> Can anybody confirm this?



Its not, mine is 220v


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15781760
> 
> 
> Looking for the bitrate, not sampling rate.



Stupid Me!










I will check again later.


----------



## jayray

How's this for weird. My display clock on my D2v was running 3x faster than normal. Turned out it was a faulty crystal. It took a minute to repace it and all is well. The technician said this was the fisrt one that failed in the field. I think this deserves a cookie









John


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15777864
> 
> 
> I'm 5 of the 10 days into my wait for my new D2v2...
> 
> 
> While I'm waiting, I was wondering if you all sit in your theater while the calibration is running, or if you get out of the room?
> 
> 
> With my current AVR, when I run Audyssey, I set up each position, then run out of the room before pressing "go" on the remote. I figure I'm adding some distortion to the measurements if I'm in the room?
> 
> 
> But ARC is/seems much more involved, with a PC and graphs and such, and perhaps I need to stay in the room while it's running?
> 
> 
> (As a side note - can I download the software to my laptop ahead of time, while I wait for the D2v to arrive?)




In theory you need to calibrate your full setup as a complete system. Equipment, Room, Furniture, anything that will be in the room during playback.


Therefore you need to be in the room. This is what I do normally.


During measurement I sit opposite seat position of where the microphone is and therefore I am not in the path of the microphone.


Meanwhile I would not push it to the point of eating popcorn during measurements


----------



## mikefl52

I have noticed in peoples posted ARC-1 graphical results with v2.0.1 that the LF, RF and center plots are very different to v1.2.5 (and any of the test results between 1.2.5 and the latest version) that have been previously posted.


These can be characterized by being significantly higher response in the lower frequencies (between 20Hz and 60Hz) and very different to the surrounds in most cases. This also reflects my experience with the v2.0.1 of the software.


I cannot say the end result sounds much different to say v1.2.13 and so my question is this: Is this a real difference in the way ARC is processing the measured data for the front speakers (including the center), or just a difference in the way it is being displayed graphically.


My apologies if this has been asked and answered previously, but with the new "v" models arriving the rate of posting is very high and I might have missed anything on this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" Firmware V2.02b for D2v/AVM50v on Password Protected Download Page!*


New "test" firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v, V2.02b, has just been released on the password protected download page. Nick is calling this "beta" firmware which means it is not targeted/intended for just a few users, but still needs more field testing before general release.


We also have our first release notes for the V2.xx firmware stream (firmware for the D2v/AVM50v only):



> Quote:
> v2.02b (beta):
> 
> 
> 1. Further fixes for audio DSP stability.
> 
> 
> 2. Fix for deep color output.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for menu 5 manual test noises.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.02:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for audio dropouts with PCM input.
> 
> 
> 2. Fix for ARC test sweeps.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.00 D2v / v2.01 AVM 50v:
> 
> 
> Initial releases.



The problems reported as fixed are all things that we've been discussing here. One new item is that apparently the first batch of AVM 50v units had V2.01 factory installed. We are still waiting our first posts reporting what firmware has arrived on new AVM 50v units.


For newbies: In addition to their public software download page, Anthem tech support maintains a password protected download page. It is no big secret, but Anthem is trying to keep some sort of track of who is using software from that page, if for no other reason than to make sure users realize that "test" software is not finished yet and may come with some unpleasant surprises. So be prepared to report issues to Anthem and possibly to roll back to previous software if the new software doesn't work well for you. If you have a new D2v or AVM 50v and are fighting any of the problems reported above, contact Anthem tech support for access to the "test" software.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15784959
> 
> 
> I have noticed in peoples posted ARC-1 graphical results with v2.0.1 that the LF, RF and center plots are very different to v1.2.5 (and any of the test results between 1.2.5 and the latest version) that have been previously posted.
> 
> 
> These can be characterized by being significantly higher response in the lower frequencies (between 20Hz and 60Hz) and very different to the surrounds in most cases. This also reflects my experience with the v2.0.1 of the software.
> 
> 
> I cannot say the end result sounds much different to say v1.2.13 and so my question is this: Is this a real difference in the way ARC is processing the measured data for the front speakers (including the center), or just a difference in the way it is being displayed graphically.
> 
> 
> My apologies if this has been asked and answered previously, but with the new "v" models arriving the rate of posting is very high and I might have missed anything on this.



ARC V2.0.1 provides an improved solution both for the deepest bass and the highest frequencies. Typically these will affect people's main speakers (and sub) more than their surrounds.


In the bass, this will show up in the Targets ARC chooses and in the Calculated results. In the high frequencies this will show up in the Measured curves as well as the Calculated results.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15784209
> 
> 
> How's this for weird. My display clock on my D2v was running 3x faster than normal. Turned out it was a faulty crystal. It took a minute to repace it and all is well. The technician said this was the fisrt one that failed in the field. I think this deserves a cookie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



No cookies for faulty hardware, I'm afraid. But still a useful report to keep an eye out for this, and good to know it is an easy fix.


For newbies: The clock in the Anthem is reset to the clock on your PC when you do a firmware install. So if you notice the clock is wrong after a firmware install, check your PC to see if its clock was wrong to begin with.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/15783657
> 
> 
> Can anybody tell me if Anthem's D2 is multi voltage or not. I know the ones that are sold in N. America are all 110V but do they have a switch or something that might enable them to take 220V?
> 
> 
> Most of such electronics have a transformers inside which is already capable of handling 220V (most companies put such transformers in order to save production costs) so they don't have to change parts for exports. It's usually very easy to change the voltage by a switch or by changing the cable connections.
> 
> 
> Can anybody confirm this?



Anthem sells the "high voltage" unit as a separate unit. It is not multi-voltage, but can handle either 50Hz or 60Hz wall power.


The specs are in the back of the Manual:



> Quote:
> Low voltage version: In countries where the line voltage is 120V, this product operates from a single
> 
> phase AC power source that supplies between 108V and 132V at a frequency of 60 Hz.
> 
> High voltage version: In countries where the line voltage is 220, 230, or 240V, this product operates from
> 
> a single phase AC power source that supplies between 216V and 264V at a frequency of 50 or 60 Hz.



--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15784303
> 
> 
> During measurement I sit opposite seat position of where the microphone is and therefore I am not in the path of the microphone.



But that means during normal listening you would have to sit in the opposite seat and stretch out your neck to listen at the other position where the mic was...











--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

Hi, Drhankz,


No anthem was no help with my problem.

they gave me password to the site to download flash eraser. I tried it severals times then my next step was to download v1.33 again, the same error appeared "OKI BOOT LOADER".

Anthem told me to ship the unit to the factory. I'm not happy, two weeks without it in my familyroom. Not good and the wife is thrilled escpecially that she told me not to update software.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15785889
> 
> 
> Hi, Drhankz,
> 
> 
> No anthem was no help with my problem.
> 
> they gave me password to the site to download flash eraser. I tried it severals times then my next step was to download v1.33 again, the same error appeared "OKI BOOT LOADER".
> 
> Anthem told me to ship the unit to the factory. I'm not happy, two weeks without it in my familyroom. Not good and the wife is thrilled escpecially that she told me not to update software.



Unfortunately if the Flash Eraser doesn't do the trick (it's rare, but it happens), the next step is to open up the chassis, and make an adjustment on one of the circuit boards that forces the unit to reset itself at the hardware level. You have to take static discharge prevention steps when you do that to keep from damaging the electronics. That's likely why they had you send the unit back.


I'm sorry this firmware install is giving you such grief.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Installed new firmware for D2V and still get pcm dropout on Dark Knight during the helicopter crash approx. 1hr 20min into movie. Sound Calibration Auto works but I think it did before new firmware on my setup. Deep colour I can't test.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15785889
> 
> 
> Hi, Drhankz,
> 
> 
> No anthem was no help with my problem.
> 
> they gave me password to the site to download flash eraser. I tried it severals times then my next step was to download v1.33 again, the same error appeared "OKI BOOT LOADER".
> 
> Anthem told me to ship the unit to the factory. I'm not happy, two weeks without it in my familyroom. Not good and the wife is thrilled escpecially that she told me not to update software.



I'm sorry to hear about your problems also.


BUT THAT ERROR is a very old one. Nick should have said

something about that error. I think it has been FIXED for

almost 2 years. That is what sounds the most strange to me.


----------



## Lordoftherings

Bonjour Mr. Robert Pariseau,


Comment allez-vous?

Mon premier nom est Robert, moi aussi.

Je viens de Joliette, Quebec, originellement.

Je vois que vous avez un bon sens de l'humour vous aussi, une des meilleure qualites.

Excusez-moi, si je suis indiscret, mais serait-il trop vous demander de quel endroit

vous demeurer?


I have great admiration and respect for Anthem products. And for the magnificent

devotion in the help you provide in this thread, I lift my hat to you.


I'm sorry if I'm late to join in, but may I ask you what is the technical term to

describe your profession?


Have a good day sir, and hopefully I may get in touch with you again.


Your's truly,


Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/15786919
> 
> 
> Bonjour Mr. Robert Pariseau,
> 
> 
> Comment allez-vous?
> 
> Mon premier nom est Robert, moi aussi.
> 
> Je viens de Joliette, Quebec, originellement.
> 
> Je vois que vous avez un bon sens de l'humour vous aussi, une des meilleure qualites.
> 
> Excusez-moi, si je suis indiscret, mais serait-il trop vous demander de quel endroit
> 
> vous demeurer?
> 
> 
> I have great admiration and respect for Anthem products. And for the magnificent
> 
> devotion in the help you provide in this thread, I lift my hat to you.
> 
> 
> I'm sorry if I'm late to join in, but may I ask you what is the technical term to
> 
> describe your profession?
> 
> 
> Have a good day sir, and hopefully I may get in touch with you again.
> 
> 
> Your's truly,
> 
> 
> Bob



Thank you for the kind words, and thanks for providing the English translation!


The relevant part of my background is in computer software and hardware engineering, particularly graphics processing, 3D animation, video processing and computer audio.

--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15787324
> 
> 
> Thank you for the kind words, and thanks for providing the English translation!
> 
> 
> The relevant part of my background is in computer software and hardware engineering, particularly graphics processing, 3D animation, video processing and computer audio.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, sounds good to me what you're doing. Sorry if I was addressing

you in French at the beginning. Thought that you were French too, with

Pariseau as your last name. But then, it is French, isn't it? I took a wild guess.

Anyway, you don't seem offended, that's the main thing.

By the way, my mother's first name is: Parise, like Paris, France, but in

feminine.


Again, thank you for responding, I do appreciate.


You have a good day sir.


Bob


----------



## yacht422

thank you for the recommendations. followed all, found out at the end of a long trail that the issue was my failure to move two files to 2.01, not just the one that appeared to contain all the data required. my error!

that said, all well. here are the files. when time permits, your analysis, please.

please note the LF - i have never had a chart that looked like this!

Also, all the cross overs have been lowered(alot).

The sound is greatly improved over 1.25. The Elves at Anthem have, as we say here in the south, _done good_.

Again, my thanks, walt


----------



## jayray

One other observation re new D2v firmware. Video settigs seem to have changed, ie. Brightness had to be cranked up in the processor menu to match previous settings.

John


----------



## Murat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15785589
> 
> 
> Anthem sells the "high voltage" unit as a separate unit. It is not multi-voltage, but can handle either 50Hz or 60Hz wall power.
> 
> 
> The specs are in the back of the Manual:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thank You


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15787601
> 
> 
> thank you for the recommendations. followed all, found out at the end of a long trail that the issue was my failure to move two files to 2.01, not just the one that appeared to contain all the data required. my error!
> 
> that said, all well. here are the files. when time permits, your analysis, please.
> 
> please note the LF - i have never had a chart that looked like this!
> 
> Also, all the cross overs have been lowered(alot).
> 
> The sound is greatly improved over 1.25. The Elves at Anthem have, as we say here in the south, _done good_.
> 
> Again, my thanks, walt



These results look very good indeed, and I'm not at all surprised they sound great.


If your LF has a separately adjustable bass portion (e.g., a satellite subwoofer) then it might be set too high. Otherwise you may be seeing a rather strong case of Boundary Gain -- placement too close to a wall or corner boosting the lowest frequencies. ARC has corrected all of that except for the blip below 25Hz. But at that point the corrected curve is already 10dB or so below the basic volume level, so that blip will likely not be heard compared to what's coming out of the subwoofer at those frequencies.


If you re-position the LF and re-Measure you might reduce its Measured curve down there enough that ARC can correct it completely, but I wouldn't worry about it too much.


You'll see that your RF is just a little cleaner at the low frequencies, and that was enough for ARC to correct completely. ARC also corrected your Center completely.


Meanwhile your sub is also hot below 25Hz. This too is likely Boundary Gain. ARC needed to boost your sub between 40Hz and 100Hz and the result is likely that it wasn't also able to cut enough below 25Hz. If you move the sub out a bit (even inches matter) from the wall or corner that may smooth its Measured curve enough for ARC to correct this completely. But again, even the worst residual error -- at 25Hz -- is only about 2.5dB. Issues like this that are less than 3dB are typically OK to just ignore.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15785889
> 
> 
> Hi, Drhankz,
> 
> 
> No anthem was no help with my problem.
> 
> they gave me password to the site to download flash eraser. I tried it severals times then my next step was to download v1.33 again, the same error appeared "OKI BOOT LOADER".
> 
> Anthem told me to ship the unit to the factory. I'm not happy, two weeks without it in my familyroom. Not good and the wife is thrilled escpecially that she told me not to update software.



I would call Anthem back and ask them for the manual shorting instructions.

They may not oblige as there is a _slight_ chance you could fry the chip.

If you like I will look through my old e-mails and see if I still have them.

You'll need a set of medium long tweezers to do the trick.

I have to think that that is exactly what an Anthem tech will do since if software could clear it, they'd make it available.

Good luck!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15787719
> 
> 
> One other observation re new D2v firmware. Video settigs seem to have changed, ie. Brightness had to be cranked up in the processor menu to match previous settings.
> 
> John



Check Studio RGB input if you can. The problem may be specific to YCbCr input.


While you are at it, check whether Blacker than Black is being passed properly (and Peak White for that matter). If there is a problem it may be related.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

bob: many thanks for the good words! i am operating two 15" subs, and i believe i could spend the rest of my life, an inch at a time, looking for that "one sweet spot".

new question: You have mentioned many times that the surrounds should be either tilted down, or, mounted at near ear height. I built the room before i knew of you, and the recommendations i had at that time were to mount them at standing height. I'm 6'4", so i actually mounted them, as measured from floor to ctr of woofer cone, at 72".

They weigh prox 75# each, and are difficult to mount to the wall(tilting is out of the question) - so - is there a great sonic delta at mounting 72" vs" say, 45"?

The room is 16+ X 22+ X 10'.

your insight is, as always, appreciated.

Walt


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15787859
> 
> 
> These results look very good indeed, and I'm not at all surprised they sound great.
> 
> 
> If your LF has a separately adjustable bass portion (e.g., a satellite subwoofer) then it might be set too high. Otherwise you may be seeing a rather strong case of Boundary Gain -- placement too close to a wall or corner boosting the lowest frequencies. ARC has corrected all of that except for the blip below 25Hz. But at that point the corrected curve is already 10dB or so below the basic volume level, so that blip will likely not be heard compared to what's coming out of the subwoofer at those frequencies.
> 
> 
> If you re-position the LF and re-Measure you might reduce its Measured curve down there enough that ARC can correct it completely, but I wouldn't worry about it too much.
> 
> 
> You'll see that your RF is just a little cleaner at the low frequencies, and that was enough for ARC to correct completely. ARC also corrected your Center completely.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile your sub is also hot below 25Hz. This too is likely Boundary Gain. ARC needed to boost your sub between 40Hz and 100Hz and the result is likely that it wasn't also able to cut enough below 25Hz. If you move the sub out a bit (even inches matter) from the wall or corner that may smooth its Measured curve enough for ARC to correct this completely. But again, even the worst residual error -- at 25Hz -- is only about 2.5dB. Issues like this that are less than 3dB are typically OK to just ignore.
> 
> --Bob



Wow. Isn't it amazing what we have all put up with before we had the ability to make these changes....those look dramatic!!


The first run through with ARC is one of the things I'm looking forward to most once my unit finally arrives......


----------



## jayray

Bob,


Studio RGB was set in video processor menu. PS3 set to RGB superwhite On, rgb full range Limited. Video Out in Anthem, colour space Auto, data studio RGB. Still no BTB.

John


----------



## my2cents

Not sure if this has been previously answered, but here goes:


I have a D1HD with 1.33 firmware and ARC 2.01, have completed a new measurement, and am not sure about the subwoofer results (I am using a Paradigm Servo 15).


The sub response cutoff in Targets was set by the program at 80 hz, but the crossover sent to the D2 was 115 hz. Does this mean that I'm losing some LFE info, since the response is corrected only up to 80 by LFE is crossed over well above that?


Also, the setting for Bypass LFE is set to No in the Speaker Config section. My understanding is that if this is set to Yes, any LFE not covered by the sub will be routed to speakers capable of playing it. Is this true?


Should I set this to Yes to compensate for the sub cutoff and xover difference, or does ARC disable that and would that mess up ARC?


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15788275
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Studio RGB was set in video processor menu. PS3 set to RGB superwhite On, rgb full range Limited. Video Out in Anthem, colour space Auto, data studio RGB. Still no BTB.
> 
> John



The PS3 is incapable of producing BTB when RGB output is selected. However, testing with Studio RGB input (what the PS3 calls RGB Limited output) should reveal whether the required change you saw in Brightness/Contrast also applies to RGB or whether it is limited to YCbCr input.


To get BTB with YCbCr from the PS3 you need to set SuperWhite ON in the PS3 (as you have done). That setting has no effect on RGB output from the PS3.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15788040
> 
> 
> bob: many thanks for the good words! i am operating two 15" subs, and i believe i could spend the rest of my life, an inch at a time, looking for that "one sweet spot".
> 
> new question: You have mentioned many times that the surrounds should be either tilted down, or, mounted at near ear height. I built the room before i knew of you, and the recommendations i had at that time were to mount them at standing height. I'm 6'4", so i actually mounted them, as measured from floor to ctr of woofer cone, at 72".
> 
> They weigh prox 75# each, and are difficult to mount to the wall(tilting is out of the question) - so - is there a great sonic delta at mounting 72" vs" say, 45"?
> 
> The room is 16+ X 22+ X 10'.
> 
> your insight is, as always, appreciated.
> 
> Walt



The results from your Surrounds look fine. I wouldn't change a thing.


Evidently your surrounds have good vertical dispersion of high frequencies.


--------------------------------------------


Since you have two subs, one of the things you need to do is make sure they are matched in Phase and Polarity so that they aren't canceling each other. Since ARC listens to both subs at the same time, this needs to be done before you Measure with ARC. (If you have only one sub, you can do Phase/Polarity adjustments for it before or after doing ARC setup. Since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time its Measurements/Calculations are not affected by phase issues for folks with only one sub. The results will just sound better when you get the Phase/Polarity correct.)


Polarity reverses the entire range of frequencies. Phase operates mostly near the crossover frequencies. Based on your ARC charts I don't see any real problem here, but it is another thing to consider if you feel like fiddling.


Instructions for matching phase between the subs themselves and the mains are in the collected ARC links in the first post. Basically you match the phase of each sub to the LF speaker and that means they end up matched to each other. The LF speaker is used as a surrogate for all the main speakers in this


ETA: If you change Phase/Polarity for either of your two subs you will need to re-Measure. Frankly I'd be tempted to just declare victory and enjoy what you've got now.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/15788447
> 
> 
> Not sure if this has been previously answered, but here goes:
> 
> 
> I have a D1HD with 1.33 firmware and ARC 2.01, have completed a new measurement, and am not sure about the subwoofer results (I am using a Paradigm Servo 15).
> 
> 
> The sub response cutoff in Targets was set by the program at 80 hz, but the crossover sent to the D2 was 115 hz. Does this mean that I'm losing some LFE info, since the response is corrected only up to 80 by LFE is crossed over well above that?
> 
> 
> Also, the setting for Bypass LFE is set to No in the Speaker Config section. My understanding is that if this is set to Yes, any LFE not covered by the sub will be routed to speakers capable of playing it. Is this true?
> 
> 
> Should I set this to Yes to compensate for the sub cutoff and xover difference, or does ARC disable that and would that mess up ARC?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Neither the crossovers nor the cutoffs are hard boundaries. There is a gradual roll off of effect. Give it a listen, but I suspect you will discover that the solution that ARC has found works just fine.


ARC provides a more sophisticated solution to the problem that LFE Bypass tries to solve for folks doing manual setup. Leave LFE Bypass turned off. (Actually when Room EQ is ON for a source, LFE Bypass is ignored. It is also ignored during Measurements. This was confirmed with ARC V1.2.5.)


For folks doing manual setups, LFE Bypass sends all LFE to the sub regardless of how low the sub crossover is set. This is for folks doing a manual setup with a sub crossover well below 80Hz. (I.e., bass steering from the mains is limited, but you don't want to limit LFE.) So even if you were doing a manual setup you wouldn't gain anything from turning on LFE Bypass with these crossover settings.


For folks who discover their ARC solution has chosen a very low sub crossover, be aware that ARC includes the equivalent of LFE Bypass as well, so you are good to go.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15772683
> 
> 
> The V1.33 firmware on your Anthem has nothing to do with this problem, and reinstalling it is not necessary.
> 
> 
> Time to do a little clean up.
> 
> 
> Power down your Anthem using the remote, and then also turn it off using the back panel switch.
> 
> 
> Shutdown your computer. Disconnect the serial cable to your Anthem and your ARC mic from the computer. If you are using a USB/serial adapter, disconnect that as well.
> 
> 
> Reboot your computer. Leave the Anthem powered off.
> 
> 
> Go into Windows Add/Remove programs and REMOVE the Anthem ARC application. If you find more than one in there remove all of them.
> 
> 
> When done with that, reboot your computer.
> 
> 
> Go to Windows Program Files and open the Anthem folder that will still be in there. It should be empty except for your two licensing/calibration files. There may also be an Anthem Statement D2 folder in Program Files from some older version of ARC. If present, it too should be empty except for a copy of your pair of licensing/calibration files.
> 
> 
> Next look on your desktop to see if you have any shortcut icons for ARC left there. If so, delete them.
> 
> 
> Now download a fresh copy of ARC V2.01 from the Anthem web site and un-Zip it to get the install kit folder.
> 
> 
> Now open up that folder and the ARC V2.0.1 CD folder inside it and you will see the ARC application, the Setup (installer) application, and a few other files. Copy your pair of licensing/calibration files into that same folder -- the one with the Setup program in it.
> 
> 
> Next verify that you have the correct two files in there. The names of the two files are made up of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC mic. Verify that the files you have in fact match those two serial numbers. If they don't, stop and report. Do not just rename them or anything like that.
> 
> 
> Now reboot, yes again.
> 
> 
> Now go back into that downloaded ARC V2.0.1 install folder and run the Setup program to install ARC V2.0.1. Let it complete. No errors? Good.
> 
> 
> Reboot again.
> 
> 
> Now go back to Program Files and the Anthem folder. The ARC application, your two licensing calibration files (the ones with the numbers you just verified) and a few other things should be in there. There should also be an ARC shortcut icon on your desktop.
> 
> *Double click on the ARC shortcut icon on your desktop to run ARC.* Select Advanced mode. In the Help menu, select About. Verify that it says you are running ARC V2.0.1.
> 
> 
> Exit ARC and shutdown your computer.
> 
> 
> Reconnect the serial cable between the computer and the Anthem (including the USB/Serial adapter if you are using one) and also plug in the ARC mic. Make sure the other end of the mic cable is fully inserted into the socket on the mic itself.
> 
> 
> Turn on the back panel switch of the Anthem but do not power it up with the remote.
> 
> 
> Boot up your computer.
> 
> *Using the shortcut icon on your desktop*, start up the ARC application. Select Advanced mode.
> 
> 
> Click on Measure. The application should now power up the Anthem, verify its serial number and verify that your ARC mic is connected.
> 
> 
> You can cancel out of the Measurement and start it up again later if you are not ready to Measure now.
> 
> 
> If this doesn't sort things out for you, then you will need to call Anthem tech support on Monday.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15788707
> 
> 
> The results from your Surrounds look fine. I wouldn't change a thing.
> 
> 
> Evidently your surrounds have good vertical dispersion of high frequencies.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Since you have two subs, one of the things you need to do is make sure they are matched in Phase and Polarity so that they aren't canceling each other. Since ARC listens to both subs at the same time, this needs to be done before you Measure with ARC. (If you have only one sub, you can do Phase/Polarity adjustments for it before or after doing ARC setup. Since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time its Measurements/Calculations are not affected by phase issues for folks with only one sub. The results will just sound better when you get the Phase/Polarity correct.)
> 
> 
> Polarity reverses the entire range of frequencies. Phase operates mostly near the crossover frequencies. Based on your ARC charts I don't see any real problem here, but it is another thing to consider if you feel like fiddling.
> 
> 
> Instructions for matching phase between the subs themselves and the mains are in the collected ARC links in the first post. Basically you match the phase of each sub to the LF speaker and that means they end up matched to each other. The LF speaker is used as a surrogate for all the main speakers in this
> 
> 
> ETA: If you change Phase/Polarity for either of your two subs you will need to re-Measure. Frankly I'd be tempted to just declare victory and enjoy what you've got now.
> 
> --Bob



bob: i was thinking of a victory dance, but - - - i believe to find if i have fixed the LF issue, i need to move/adjust and measure *it*, only. then, when the LF looks good, finalize the entire room.

But, to tell the truth, I am not certain these 68 year old ears will hear all the improvements that those accumulated inches of movements promise.

EH?

regards

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15788999
> 
> 
> bob: i was thinking of a victory dance, but - - - i believe to find if i have fixed the LF issue, i need to move/adjust and measure *it*, only. then, when the LF looks good, finalize the entire room.
> 
> But, to tell the truth, I am not certain these 68 year old ears will hear all the improvements that those accumulated inches of movements promise.
> 
> EH?
> 
> regards
> 
> walt



ARC currently doesn't provide a method to Measure and chart just one speaker or just one mic location. (Which also means you can't update a previous set of ARC results with just changes for one speaker.)


The Measured curve is an unweighted average of what ARC hears at all of the mic positions.


Since all you need to know is if the Measured curve is improving, you could temporarily tell ARC to do a 2.0 configuration (just LF/RF). You'll still have to Measure 5 mic positions, but it will go faster. And of course there's no need to Calculate or Upload. When you get a result you like in the Measured curve, do it over with ARC set to do your full speaker configuration.

--Bob


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15788916
> 
> 
> Neither the crossovers nor the cutoffs are hard boundaries. There is a gradual roll off of effect. Give it a listen, but I suspect you will discover that the solution that ARC has found works just fine.
> 
> 
> ARC provides a more sophisticated solution to the problem that LFE Bypass tries to solve for folks doing manual setup. Leave LFE Bypass turned off. (Actually when Room EQ is ON for a source, LFE Bypass is ignored. It is also ignored during Measurements. This was confirmed with ARC V1.2.5.)
> 
> 
> For folks doing manual setups, LFE Bypass sends all LFE to the sub regardless of how low the sub crossover is set. This is for folks doing a manual setup with a sub crossover well below 80Hz. (I.e., bass steering from the mains is limited, but you don't want to limit LFE.) So even if you were doing a manual setup you wouldn't gain anything from turning on LFE Bypass with these crossover settings.
> 
> 
> For folks who discover their ARC solution has chosen a very low sub crossover, be aware that ARC includes the equivalent of LFE Bypass as well, so you are good to go.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Thanks for the insight. Per the manual, it didn't specifically say LFE bypass was shut off by ARC, but I guess we've found out that to be true. My setup now does sound pretty good, but you know we audiophiles are always trying to find something to fix.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/15789040
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for the insight. Per the manual, it didn't specifically say LFE bypass was shut off by ARC, but I guess we've found out that to be true. My setup now does sound pretty good, but you know we audiophiles are always trying to find something to fix.



The fact that ARC replaces LFE Bypass has also been confirmed by Nick at Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## shawnboston

. . . because I just brought my shiny new silver AVM50v and Statement A5 home! Setting it all up tonight, more after it's up and running!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15789342
> 
> 
> . . . because I just brought my shiny new silver AVM50v and Statement A5 home! Setting it all up tonight, more after it's up and running!



You're cookie awaits just one more task. You must power up your new AVM 50v and report which version of firmware came factory installed in it! The firmware is shown in the front panel display so you don't actually need to wire up anything to see this -- just the power cord.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

Dr.hankz & milt99, tried several times but no solution. Nick didn't seem to whats the word.....

After half hour comm. With tech, i received an email instructing me to return avm50 to factory. Return document on attach file.

So i guess i'm shipping it out first thing tomorrow morning.

I'm thinking of going back to first processor manufactor-lexicon.

Dealers here in nj, have better service


----------



## Doright




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15782981
> 
> 
> Go into Setup >
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Your charts also show a room with only a small Room Gain hump -- perhaps 1.0 to 1.5dB. Open your saved file of ARC results in Advanced mode and click on Targets to bring up the Targets window which will show you the precise value. I see nothing in your Measured curves that might have fooled ARC here (the closest thing is the dip near 200Hz in the LF speaker), so this may very well represent the true "natural" Room Gain for your room. Many people prefer a bit more Room Gain. I would suggest you try around 2.5dB or even a little higher. See the discussion on Room Gain about a dozen posts further back for more info.
> 
> 
> All of your speakers appear to be doing well in bass. You sub is doing exceptionally well. No problems there.
> 
> 
> However your speakers could use a little more help in the high frequencies. Try raising the Max EQ Frequency Target in the Targets window -- accept that change and re-Calculate. If you like the curves you see, do an Upload and give it a listen. No need to re-Measure.
> 
> 
> With the exception of your LS/RS speakers, all your curves look good enough that you might be able to push that all the way up to 20KHz without the lower frequency results starting to wobble too much. Fiddle around with a few different calculations and see if 20KHz looks fine or if you need to back that off to a lower, compromise setting.
> 
> 
> Now your LS/RS speakers have significant dips at 5KHz and 15KHz that are beyond the 6dB of correction ARC will provide (a limit set to keep from stressing the speakers and amps). It doesn't look like a broken tweeter. It might be a grill or other obstruction in front of the tweeter, or it might just be that you have to point those two speakers better. If they are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to the vertical pointing as it is quite common for speakers to exhibit poorer dispersion of high frequencies in the vertical direction than in the horizontal.
> 
> 
> If you push Max EQ Frequency all the way up, ARC will correct about 3/4 of the error you've got up there in LS/RS -- which will leave a fairly small residual error -- not bad. But if you can improve their Measured curves even by 3dB up there ARC may be able to give you complete correction for the rest. Any changes you make to those speakers will require re-Measurement.
> 
> --Bob



Hey Bob,


Thanks for the input.

I bumped the Gain up to 2.5 on both Cinema and Music (I assumed I should do both). I also changed the max frequency to 20000 on both as suggested. We'll listen for a few days and let you know what we think.

I'm using Swan Diva Dipoles for my surrounds and they are right at ear height (I actually moved them down 2 feet before I ran ARC). Our room is rather large with a ceiling that vaults to 15'. A few years back we did a substantial sound treatment adding bass traps and sound panels all over the place. This was necessary because the room used to be a huge echo chamber.


I've attached the new charts. Do they look any better?


Thanks!!


Tony


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15785889
> 
> 
> Hi, Drhankz,
> 
> 
> No anthem was no help with my problem.
> 
> they gave me password to the site to download flash eraser. I tried it severals times then my next step was to download v1.33 again, the same error appeared "OKI BOOT LOADER".
> 
> Anthem told me to ship the unit to the factory. I'm not happy, two weeks without it in my familyroom. Not good and the wife is thrilled escpecially that she told me not to update software.



Ditch the dell laptop, and try another PC. I have a i8600 with a serial port, and get this and other errors all the time. Nick mentioned problems with this in the past pertaining to only dell laptops with a hard serial port. Go figure.


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15789473
> 
> 
> Dr.hankz & milt99, tried several times but no solution. Nick didn't seem to whats the word.....
> 
> After half hour comm. With tech, i received an email instructing me to return avm50 to factory. Return document on attach file.
> 
> So i guess i'm shipping it out first thing tomorrow morning.
> 
> I'm thinking of going back to first processor manufactor-lexicon.
> 
> Dealers here in nj, have better service



Try a desktop with a serial port first. I bet you it will work.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15789473
> 
> 
> Dr.hankz & milt99, tried several times but no solution. Nick didn't seem to whats the word.....
> 
> After half hour comm. With tech, i received an email instructing me to return avm50 to factory. Return document on attach file.
> 
> So i guess i'm shipping it out first thing tomorrow morning.
> 
> I'm thinking of going back to first processor manufactor-lexicon.
> 
> Dealers here in nj, have better service



zues, buddy, I know you're bummed but don't lose your grip









The boys at Anthem will fix you up and likely a lot faster than any other manufacturer.

Sure I have a couple minor beefs about the D2 and Anthem's upgrade policy$$ but overall, there's really not a better deal and company going right now and certainly not Lexicon, imo.

Here's my advice, get that AVM50 shipped tomorrow, don't procrastinate.

It'll be back before you know it and working champion.

Take your wife out to a nice dinner this weekend, get her liquored-up and apply the usual zeus-charmus-maximus she'll forget all about the frackkin' firmware and so will you.


----------



## MStanic

How long does ARC take to run? On my D2, it seemed way faster. Movie and music calculations take over 30 minutes to execute on my D2V. Granted, I'm running this on a dinosaur laptop because it has the RS232 connection but this is the same laptop I used on my D2.


Also, I reset factory defaults and just set my speaker distances. Anthem tech support said not to bother with the 75db SPL meter. Just let ARC do its thing is what they said. Am I missing something by not doing the SPL thing first? What are the proper sequence of steps before starting ARC if these are not correct?


----------



## jayray

Milt,

If you're not a therapist, you might think of changing occupations.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/15790888
> 
> 
> How long does ARC take to run? On my D2, it seemed way faster. Movie and music calculations take over 30 minutes to execute on my D2V. Granted, I'm running this on a dinosaur laptop because it has the RS232 connection but this is the same laptop I used on my D2.
> 
> 
> Also, I reset factory defaults and just set my speaker distances. Anthem tech support said not to bother with the 75db SPL meter. Just let ARC do its thing is what they said. Am I missing something by not doing the SPL thing first? What are the proper sequence of steps before starting ARC if these are not correct?



Calculations are done on the computer. If it is slow, and 30 min. is unbelievable, something is wrong with the computer. My D2V takes no more time than my AVM 50 to upload my calculations. BTW, calculations can be done without being attached to your D2V.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Doright* /forum/post/15790341
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input.
> 
> I bumped the Gain up to 2.5 on both Cinema and Music (I assumed I should do both). I also changed the max frequency to 20000 on both as suggested. We'll listen for a few days and let you know what we think.
> 
> I'm using Swan Diva Dipoles for my surrounds and they are right at ear height (I actually moved them down 2 feet before I ran ARC). Our room is rather large with a ceiling that vaults to 15'. A few years back we did a substantial sound treatment adding bass traps and sound panels all over the place. This was necessary because the room used to be a huge echo chamber.
> 
> 
> I've attached the new charts. Do they look any better?
> 
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
> 
> Tony



These results look very good indeed to me! Enjoy!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/15790491
> 
> 
> Ditch the dell laptop, and try another PC. I have a i8600 with a serial port, and get this and other errors all the time. Nick mentioned problems with this in the past pertaining to only dell laptops with a hard serial port. Go figure.



Anthem has discovered that some of the manufacturers are making unusual changes to Windows before they bundle it on their computers...


Deep sigh.

--Bob


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15791006
> 
> 
> Anthem has discovered that some of the manufacturers are making unusual changes to Windows before they bundle it on their computers...
> 
> 
> Deep sigh.
> 
> --Bob



In my case, its something else. Windows 98 is long done off this computer, and has been reloaded many times with original windows and not dell supplied windows, sadly, it might go down as one of life's little mysteries...


----------



## ensmarcum

What is the best way to biamp speakers with the d2? How would that work, do you use a splitter on the xlr/rca connections into the two amps or what?


----------



## jayray

I don't know how many sound dropouts were reported by other D2v owners, but I have watced 4 movies and so far only one, in dark knight, and that one is repeatable so maybe it's the ps3 or the disk, not the D2v.

John


----------



## shawnboston




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15789368
> 
> 
> You're cookie awaits just one more task. You must power up your new AVM 50v and report which version of firmware came factory installed in it! The firmware is shown in the front panel display so you don't actually need to wire up anything to see this -- just the power cord.
> 
> --Bob



Well, I've been at it for a few hours . . . powered on the unit a couple of times but I didn't see the firmware specs and now it's time for zzzs, so I will provide an update tomorrow. Is there somewhere in the set up menu I can go to check the firmware?


Happily, everything is running and I'm absolutely thrilled with the sound out of the box. I can't wait to run ARC this weekend and see what happens.


----------



## shawnboston

Duh, push the status button (lol): Version 2.02.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15791448
> 
> 
> Duh, push the status button (lol): Version 2.02.



Ding! Ding! Ding! Ding!


That's good for a cookie!


We now have our first confirmed report of AVM 50v delivery!











--Bob


----------



## MStanic

I have the Sony PS3 for a BRD player. What should I set the Audio output to now that the decoding is done on the D2V. I watched Hulk on BRD and it shows 5.1 channel output. Shouldn't it read 7.1 along with Dolby HD or something to that effect? Do I need to pick the sound format each time I play a BRD.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/15791255
> 
> 
> What is the best way to biamp speakers with the d2? How would that work, do you use a splitter on the xlr/rca connections into the two amps or what?



I've never been all that big a fan of biamping, but if you want to try it odds are the input impedance on your amps is high enough that you can simply use a Y splitter on the RCA outputs from the Anthem.


The RCA and XLR outputs of the Anthem are live at the same time if you want to double up that way. You just have to deal with the fact that there's a standard 6dB difference in output between them. The amp may have a switch that corrects for that automatically.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/15791747
> 
> 
> I have the Sony PS3 for a BRD player. What should I set the Audio output to now that the decoding is done on the D2V. I watched Hulk on BRD and it shows 5.1 channel output. Shouldn't it read 7.1 along with Dolby HD or something to that effect? Do I need to pick the sound format each time I play a BRD.



First things first. You need to tell the PS3 to redo its idea of what's allowed on the HDMI connection to the Anthem.


In the PS3, go to Settings > Display Settings and redo the automatic display setup for HDMI output. When that finishes it will ask you if you want to redo the audio as well. Go ahead and do that automatic setup. The PS3 will now know that it is OK to send up to 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM to the D2v all the way up to 192KHz/24bit per channel.


The PS3 does not bitstream the new Blu-Ray audio formats, so you will not be able to play with the decoding of them in the D2v. Use HDMI LPCM output from the PS3. The PS3 will do all the decoding.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/15791067
> 
> 
> In my case, its something else. Windows 98 is long done off this computer, and has been reloaded many times with original windows and not dell supplied windows, sadly, it might go down as one of life's little mysteries...



On a machine that old it could even be a BIOS or low level firmware issue.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15790973
> 
> 
> Calculations are done on the computer. If it is slow, and 30 min. is unbelievable, something is wrong with the computer. My D2V takes no more time than my AVM 50 to upload my calculations. BTW, calculations can be done without being attached to your D2V.
> 
> John



It is also possible to install the ARC software on more than one computer. Do your Measurements on a laptop and transfer the resulting file to a less portable computer to do the Calculation. Transfer the results back to the laptop and do the Upload. But really this shouldn't be necessary.


The Calculation, even when doing separate Movie and Music, should only take a couple minutes at most unless the computer is really slow.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/15790888
> 
> 
> Also, I reset factory defaults and just set my speaker distances. Anthem tech support said not to bother with the 75db SPL meter. Just let ARC do its thing is what they said. Am I missing something by not doing the SPL thing first? What are the proper sequence of steps before starting ARC if these are not correct?



The steps I recommend are detailed in one of the ARC post links collected in the first post of this thread.


For most people the preliminary setting of Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and the built-in volume in the subwoofer is not needed because things will be within the range that ARC can easily handle all by itself. But taking those preliminary steps insure that that's the case. It is quick to do and personally I still think it is a good idea.


If you've already done your ARC setup, just check the speaker volume trims ARC uploaded in the Setup > Level Calibration menu. If they are all within a few dB either side of 0 then you are good to go. If some or all of them have bigger volume trims it might be worth looking into why.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/15791747
> 
> 
> Do I need to pick the sound format each time I play a BRD.



You can bring up the on-screen info display on the PS3 to discover which audio track it is decoding for you (info in the upper right). On many Blu-Ray discs the highest quality audio track will not be the one that plays by default. You have to select it using the disc's own menus.


Here's what the PS3's on-screen Display info looks like (look about 2/3 of the way down this page):

http://manuals.playstation.net/docum...deo/panel.html 


Keep in mind that most Blu-Ray discs only have 5.1 audio tracks. So of course you won't get 7.1 from them. You can use PLIIx audio mode (for example) in the D2v to raise 5.1 channel input to 7.1 speaker output.

--Bob


----------



## shawnboston

Quick question: Have any of you ever had a problem with the master control knob? The MCK on my new unit is not working . . . it does not tune, adjust the volume or do anything else. It has twice adjusted the volume by a single .5db increment (one unit) but then it stopped working again. Any ideas? The volume controls on the remote work fine. I will contact tech support today as well.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15789473
> 
> 
> Dr.hankz & milt99, tried several times but no solution. Nick didn't seem to whats the word.....
> 
> After half hour comm. With tech, i received an email instructing me to return avm50 to factory. Return document on attach file.
> 
> So i guess i'm shipping it out first thing tomorrow morning.
> 
> I'm thinking of going back to first processor manufactor-lexicon.
> 
> Dealers here in nj, have better service



All I can say is I switched from being a 20 Year

Lexicon Customer and NEVER LOOKED BACK after

I bought my D2.


I even set out to buy the Lexicon MC-12-HD and

it was a NOW WAY JOSE - because I needed VIDEO

Processing and Lexicon had none. It could not even

pass 1080p, let alone process it.


Even if you have to ship it back to Anthem to get it

fixed - I CALL THAT GREAT TECH Support. I'm sure

their turn-around will be same day.


----------



## zuesmaximus

drhankz,

yeah, after cooling off. lexicon is a bad idea. I really love my anthem, just tough with no hometheater. been trying this morning uploading software before its off to factory. NO LUCK SO FAR


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15793738
> 
> 
> drhankz,
> 
> yeah, after cooling off. lexicon is a bad idea. I really love my anthem, just tough with no hometheater. been trying this morning uploading software before its off to factory. NO LUCK SO FAR



Even your local Anthem Dealer should be able to do

one of two things - try and get the FW loaded for you

or do the Mechanical SHORT the E-Prom pins for you

to clear out the memory.


In the worst case - I'm sure Anthem will turn around

the box for you in a day. Customs will be FAST because

it is going in for REPAIR. Just make sure that is called

out clearly on the Customs declaration.


----------



## zuesmaximus

Yeap, tried that to this morning. In NJ the Anthem dealer is a local big box chain "6ave". There service and tech knowledge is horrible.

My first AVM50 I took it there for repair, they lost it for three months and won't lend me their demo. Their response was it will arrive this week, next week, next week....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15793867
> 
> 
> Yeap, tried that to this morning. In NJ the Anthem dealer is a local big box chain "6ave". There service and tech knowledge is horrible.
> 
> My first AVM50 I took it there for repair, they lost it for three months and won't lend me their demo. Their response was it will arrive this week, next week, next week....



VERY VALID POINT - I agree 100% - Ship it to Anthem


----------



## zuesmaximus

My only choice, I tried....

thanks for the help!


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15793738
> 
> 
> drhankz,
> 
> yeah, after cooling off. lexicon is a bad idea. I really love my anthem, just tough with no hometheater. been trying this morning uploading software before its off to factory. NO LUCK SO FAR



When you use the flash eraser make sure that you run it multiple time until it says completed. It seems that the anthem has multiple flash section and the flash eraser stop a each one of them. At least mine did when I had to use it last year because I have tried to flash with a cheap usb-to-serial adapter.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15794004
> 
> 
> My only choice, I tried....
> 
> thanks for the help!



Zeus... I had an issue doing a software update using a laptop and USB/Serial adaptor.


It bricked my D2... The only solution was to remove the cover and connect two jumpers while doing a power on..


If you're not scared to try it, you might ask Nick if he can send you the exact instructions to do it... It might save you the time without your AVM..


And I would highly recommend trying a PC with a serial card, or another laptop...


Best of luck.


----------



## mothaselin

Thanks so much for your reply, just now taking the plunge.


----------



## zuesmaximus

I tried all possible methods, flash eraser several times, change from laptop to a PC with serial port, all sorts of other possible solutions but no luck. Nick believes its a hardware problems; some how. I'm trying to understand that, he claims a 50/50 chance of either software or hardware.

I tried it all....


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15791336
> 
> 
> I don't know how many sound dropouts were reported by other D2v owners, but I have watced 4 movies and so far only one, in dark knight, and that one is repeatable so maybe it's the ps3 or the disk, not the D2v.
> 
> John



John,


I have had dropouts too, only on Dark Knight. The other movies I watched were 300 and Troy. I have to verify the location on Dark Knight. Also should probably try it with Dolby Digital versus TrueHD. 300 worked on TrueHD and Troy on PCM. My PS3 is also at 2.60.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15792900
> 
> 
> Quick question: Have any of you ever had a problem with the master control knob? The MCK on my new unit is not working . . . it does not tune, adjust the volume or do anything else. It has twice adjusted the volume by a single .5db increment (one unit) but then it stopped working again. Any ideas? The volume controls on the remote work fine. I will contact tech support today as well.



This could be a hardware problem in the knob itself (likely) or a software problem in the software that reads changes in the knob (less likely).


If it's hardware the unit will have to go back for service, so it might be worth trying a re-install of the firmware first "just in case".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/15796195
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for your reply, just now taking the plunge.



Let us know when your new D2v arrives! We're trying to track how long it is taking to get units delivered after they are ordered.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/15787519
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, sounds good to me what you're doing. Sorry if I was addressing
> 
> you in French at the beginning. Thought that you were French too, with
> 
> Pariseau as your last name. But then, it is French, isn't it? I took a wild guess.
> 
> Anyway, you don't seem offended, that's the main thing.
> 
> By the way, my mother's first name is: Parise, like Paris, France, but in
> 
> feminine.
> 
> 
> Again, thank you for responding, I do appreciate.
> 
> 
> You have a good day sir.
> 
> 
> Bob



I am the french speaking guy around here


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15791700
> 
> 
> Ding! Ding! Ding! Ding!
> 
> 
> That's good for a cookie!
> 
> 
> We now have our first confirmed report of AVM 50v delivery!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Next who will get the first upgrade.


----------



## zr123

Hi Bob,


Do you know where we can pick up a Keyspan serial to usb cable in Canada?


Any particular model #?


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15797740
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Do you know where we can pick up a Keyspan serial to usb cable in Canada?
> 
> 
> Any particular model #?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



The Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter is sold by Amazon on line, along with other on line retailers. Pair it with a "straight through" serial cable -- which is already included in new Anthem units, but can be purchased at your local equivalent of Radio Shack if necessary. Plug the adapter into a USB socket on your computer and run the serial cable from it to the Anthem. You will also need a second USB socket for the ARC mic.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15796616
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> I have had dropouts too, only on Dark Knight. The other movies I watched were 300 and Troy. I have to verify the location on Dark Knight. Also should probably try it with Dolby Digital versus TrueHD. 300 worked on TrueHD and Troy on PCM. My PS3 is also at 2.60.



Duckwood,

this smells like a disc issue. I haven't tried it with DD+. So far I have run now 5 and DK is still the only culprit. The location where it drops out on mine is the scene where the helicopter crashes into some cables strung across the buildings, spins and then hits the road. This goes silent for me. I can't remember exactly what time it occurs but it is a memorable scene.

John


----------



## jayray

The more I use the D2V, the more I realize the diff. b/t my AVM 50 and D2V.

1. Increased dynamics

2. Soundfield is 360 deg.

3. Detail is improved

Is it worth the extra cash, for me yes.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15797988
> 
> 
> The more I use the D2V, the more I realize the diff. b/t my AVM 50 and D2V.
> 
> 1. Increased dynamics
> 
> 2. Soundfield is 360 deg.
> 
> 3. Detail is improved
> 
> Is it worth the extra cash, for me yes.
> 
> John



Ya Go John







Go


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15797711
> 
> 
> Next who will get the first upgrade.



Aren't you on that WAITING List


----------



## flavorguy

Zeus -


My local Anthem dealer is in Morris Plains. He just set up my AVM50v this afternoon...


If you want his name and contact info, PM me...


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15796903
> 
> 
> Let us know when your new D2v arrives! We're trying to track how long it is taking to get units delivered after they are ordered.
> 
> --Bob



I heard from my dealer yesterday that Anthem is backordered and next shipment is 'one to two weeks away' (he was talking about the D2v)


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15798927
> 
> 
> I heard from my dealer yesterday that Anthem is backordered and next shipment is 'one to two weeks away' (he was talking about the D2v)



Son of a... When I seen you had posted I was sure it was to announce you had your D2v!


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/15798964
> 
> 
> Son of a... When I seen you had posted I was sure it was to announce you had your D2v!



Oh mine is coming....UPS has it........


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15798490
> 
> 
> Zeus -
> 
> 
> My local Anthem dealer is in Morris Plains. He just set up my AVM50v this afternoon...
> 
> 
> If you want his name and contact info, PM me...



Another AVM 50v delivery report!


Did yours also arrive with firmware V2.02 factory installed? (Press Select once on the remote to see the firmware number).

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

I guess I got lucky.


I ordered mine last Friday and received it this past Monday..the D2V that is. Benefits of living 20 minutes from Anthem and my dealer having a good relatioship with them.


So far so good but can't say it's better than the D2 since I have not really spent any time with it...just setting it up and tweaking. It's not a big WOW factor so far but as I start to set it up and play with it I might be more impressed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The anticipated new "test" version of ARC has not shown yet. I don't know if they are still testing that one fix I described earlier, or if they are in the process of adding some other changes. Stay tuned.


The "backorder report" I've been posting for the past couple week has also not yet been updated for this week.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

When I took my D2V in for the clock crystal replacement, I saw a rack of D2Vs which were waiting for a backordered part. This is the hold up. Bummer.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In the D2v itself? Or perhaps they've run short of ARC mics again?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Yes the D2v part was in short supply, nothing to do with ARC. Frustrating for everyone, vendor and customer.

John


----------



## shawnboston




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15796744
> 
> 
> This could be a hardware problem in the knob itself (likely) or a software problem in the software that reads changes in the knob (less likely).
> 
> 
> If it's hardware the unit will have to go back for service, so it might be worth trying a re-install of the firmware first "just in case".
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I spoke to Anthem today and they think it is hardware as well. They suggested I try to re-load the factory defaults and see if it works (it did not). While it's a bit disconcerting to have something like that be broken on arrival I am not overly concerned as everything is else appears to be a-OK. I am going to see what they can do to get it repaired or replaced (hopefully without having to go without the unit) . . . with any other brand I would be very irritated but after reading this thread, I am more inclined to cut them some slack because it seems that Anthem has a great product, is invested in customer satisfaction and has a solid tech support process. I'll let you know if this repair/replacement experience lives up to that expectation.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15801289
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I spoke to Anthem today and they think it is hardware as well. They suggested I try to re-load the factory defaults and see if it works (it did not). While it's a bit disconcerting to have something like that be broken on arrival I am not overly concerned as everything is else appears to be a-OK. I am going to see what they can do to get it repaired or replaced (hopefully without having to go without the unit) . . . with any other brand I would be very irritated but after reading this thread, I am more inclined to cut them some slack because it seems that Anthem has a great product, is invested in customer satisfaction and has a solid tech support process. I'll let you know if this repair/replacement experience lives up to that expectation.



I suspect it will turn out to be something that shook loose in shipping. In any event, they'll get you going again as quickly as possible.

--Bob


----------



## flavorguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15799023
> 
> 
> Another AVM 50v delivery report!
> 
> 
> Did yours also arrive with firmware V2.02 factory installed? (Press Select once on the remote to see the firmware number).
> 
> --Bob



Since I was depressed on missing out on the first cookie, I didn't have the heart to post my AVM50v firmware... it is v 2.02...


After I figure out how to convert the ARC files to jpg so I can post them, (I am so computer illiterate) I'd love to get your opinion on next steps. I knew my system always sounded "off", but looking at these graphs I can't believe the corrections that ARC wants to force... but boy what a night and day difference!


----------



## AbMagFab

Anticipation! My D2v is scheduled to arrive tomorrow... I've been dying for this thing since way before they announced it (over a year ago). I really wanted a D2, but I couldn't get one knowing an upgrade was coming. And I had plenty of other stuff to get in the meantime.


I have the mic boom, and the keyspan serial port adapter. I have a bunch of balanced cables. Other than that, my P2 and P5 are already set up, and my rack (as it is) is cleaned up, so I should be able to do a direct swap of my current AVR.


Oh yeah - the IR codes. I'm using an URC/MSC-400. Anyone know a good place to get solid serial codes for this thing? I'd like to connect it up to the serial port for control.


Anything else I can/should do ahead of time?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15802667
> 
> 
> Anyone know a good place to get solid serial codes for this thing? I'd like to connect it up to the serial port for control.



I believe the RS-232 codes are in the manual - if not - I know

I have them somewhere. I would just need to do a search for them.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15802667
> 
> 
> Anyone know a good place to get solid serial codes for this thing? I'd like to connect it up to the serial port for control.



OK - as usual I was WRONG.


They are NOT in the Manual.


But I posted them *HERE*!


Are you sure this is something you want to tackle?


----------



## dcrna

Would any of you be kind enough to PM me what I should expect to pay for a D2v. I am going to the dealer tomorrow.


Thanks!


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15802667
> 
> 
> Anything else I can/should do ahead of time?



Yeah, make sure you persuade the wife, kids, cat and dog to go for a really long walk while you play with ARC


----------



## shawnboston




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15802017
> 
> 
> I suspect it will turn out to be something that shook loose in shipping. In any event, they'll get you going again as quickly as possible.
> 
> --Bob



Talk about great customer service! I just got off the phone with Anthem and without making me jump through any hoops (which I find happens all too often with mfgs trying to avoid repairs/replacements), they are sending my dealer another unit and I'll be able to use the one I have until it arrives. Faulty MCB notwithstanding, I am thrilled with the products and the company so far.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15803506
> 
> 
> Talk about great customer service! I just got off the phone with Anthem and without making me jump through any hoops (which I find happens all too often with mfgs trying to avoid repairs/replacements), they are sending my dealer another unit and I'll be able to use the one I have until it arrives. Faulty MCB notwithstanding, I am thrilled with the products and the company so far.



It's been a while since we've discussed a case of early unit failure like yours, so I'm delighted to hear that Anthem is still doing this even for the AVM line!


Although the policy is not stated in writing anywhere that I've found, it appears that they will do swap outs like this for most hardware failures that show up during the first 30 days of use. If the broken unit is still mostly functional, that means you can continue to use it until the replacement arrives (which might take a while due to backorder). If the broken unit is not at all useable it means the replacement is already in the queue to ship to you even before your broken unit gets back to the factory.


As with all electronics, most hardware failures happen in the first 90 days of use, so an extra-lenient swap out policy for the first 30 days goes a long way towards covering that.


Pretty darn cool customer support!


----------------------------------------------------


Keep in mind that your replacement unit will have a new serial number. It will most likely ship without an ARC kit -- i.e., you continue to use the ARC kit you already have. And that means that Anthem tech support will need to email you replacements for the pair of serialized licensing/calibration files needed to pair your new unit with your current ARC mic. Just copy those two files into Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction where your current pair of files have been installed.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

Shawnboston, sweet deal..

I wish that happen to me. Shipped out avm50 yesterday, now the waiting game. Think of purchasing something in its place. My system is useless.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

AbMagFab,



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15802736
> 
> 
> I believe the RS-232 codes are in the manual - if not - I know
> 
> I have them somewhere. I would just need to do a search for them.



An Excel spreadsheet defining the RS-232 commands for the Anthems, and a PDF file of change notes, will both be found in the ARC V2.0.1 install folder that can be downloaded from Anthem's public download pages. These have been updated to include the few, new commands for the D2v and AVM 50v. Note that the Dolby Volume commands are also in there now, although that feature has not yet appeared in the D2v/AVM 50v firmware.


As for the URC remote, I don't recall whether anyone has posted a configuration file for it that works with the Anthems. One place to look would be the Remote Central web site -- a place where people post configuration files for remotes and the devices they control.

http://www.remotecentral.com/ 


If you email Anthem tech support, they might have info from some of the installers that contact them about sources for URC remote configuration stuff.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15804392
> 
> 
> Shawnboston, sweet deal..
> 
> I wish that happen to me. Shipped out avm50 yesterday, now the waiting game. Think of purchasing something in its place. My system is useless.



Hang tight - Patience is a VIRTUE


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A recent "standard" UPS shipment from Anthem to the east coast of the US took only 3 days. It appears that the slowing economy has produced one good thing -- shorter shipping and customs delays!


That means turn around for unit repairs could be quite quick depending on how long it takes them to figure out the problem once the unit is on the bench.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

I'm hanging....

I stink at being patient! any ideas of new device to replace the avm50....haha


----------



## seang86s




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15804634
> 
> 
> I'm hanging....
> 
> I stink at being patient! any ideas of new device to replace the avm50....haha



A D2v...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15804634
> 
> 
> I'm hanging....
> 
> I stink at being patient! any ideas of new device to replace the avm50....haha



It must be nice to be able to THROW money around.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15805024
> 
> 
> It must be nice to be able to THROW money around.



It is always easy when you are spending someone else's money!


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15803506
> 
> 
> Talk about great customer service! I just got off the phone with Anthem and without making me jump through any hoops (which I find happens all too often with mfgs trying to avoid repairs/replacements), they are sending my dealer another unit and I'll be able to use the one I have until it arrives. Faulty MCB notwithstanding, I am thrilled with the products and the company so far.





I assume the replacement unit will come with new ARC "stuff" as a complete package since everything is keyed between the unit, mic and S/N's.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15805151
> 
> 
> I assume the replacement unit will come with new ARC "stuff" as a complete package since everything is keyed between the unit, mic and S/N's.



That's not necessary. Anthem tech support can email out the new pair of serialized licensing/calibration files needed to pair the new unit with the original ARC mic.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here's a link to a Feb 7 video interview with Mark Aling of Paradigm, the parent company of Anthem (Windows Media Video, WMV, format):

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/image...ent-2-7-09.wmv 


He talks briefly about the D2v (nothing new here) as well as the PBK (ARC in a standalone unit for use with Paradigm's new subwoofers) and their home theater in a high end box kit.


One item that caught my eye is that the PBK communicates to the new subs via USB -- presumably for uploading the correction parameter results. Is there hope for USB in a new Statement pre-pro?

--Bob


----------



## dseliger

Any new news on the d2v upgrades, i thought someone was saying february or march? I need more HDMI ports badly!


Wonder if im better off selling my D2 and buying a D2v or just be patient...


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15804430
> 
> 
> AbMagFab,
> 
> 
> 
> An Excel spreadsheet defining the RS-232 commands for the Anthems, and a PDF file of change notes, will both be found in the ARC V2.0.1 install folder that can be downloaded from Anthem's public download pages. These have been updated to include the few, new commands for the D2v and AVM 50v. Note that the Dolby Volume commands are also in there now, although that feature has not yet appeared in the D2v/AVM 50v firmware.
> 
> 
> As for the URC remote, I don't recall whether anyone has posted a configuration file for it that works with the Anthems. One place to look would be the Remote Central web site -- a place where people post configuration files for remotes and the devices they control.
> 
> http://www.remotecentral.com/
> 
> 
> If you email Anthem tech support, they might have info from some of the installers that contact them about sources for URC remote configuration stuff.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. I downloaded the ARC software before, but didn't notice the XLS in there - thanks for pointing it out. If I can get that fully working (it looks like any other RS232 spec sheet, so assuming the D2v is reliable over RS232), then the IR should be unnecessary.


I can program my remotes with the Anthem remote, but it would be easier to just have one configured already. I checked RC.com, but there was nothing there (that I saw or could find at least).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15805035
> 
> 
> It is always easy when you are spending someone else's money!



I have much more GUILT about that than when I spend my own


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/15805913
> 
> 
> Any new news on the d2v upgrades, i thought someone was saying february or march? I need more HDMI ports badly!
> 
> 
> Wonder if im better off selling my D2 and buying a D2v or just be patient...



Not yet. We had word that they were busy finalizing pricing last week, but no results from that yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The wake for Pioneer plasma displays is in full swing over in the plasma display forum here...










--Bob


----------



## shah993

If you are looking config files for URC MX 3000 they have files on remote central for D1.I tried it on the D2 and it seems to work.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993* /forum/post/15806921
> 
> 
> If you are looking config files for URC MX 3000 they have files on remote central for D1.I tried it on the D2 and it seems to work.



Ok, if the D1 works, then I have serial control files already for that. I'll test and let you know (when I get it, tomorrow night, which is really soon...).


----------



## shawnboston




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15805218
> 
> 
> That's not necessary. Anthem tech support can email out the new pair of serialized licensing/calibration files needed to pair the new unit with the original ARC mic.
> 
> --Bob



You will NOT believe this. I just picked up my brand new replacement AVM50v! Apparently Anthem accidentally shipped my order to my dealer twice and he had not shipped the second shipment back yet . . . so, long story short, I have a 100% new unit w/a new ARC kit sitting in my living room right now. I don't know where I accumulated enough good karma for this kind of outcome but I'll take it! ARC update coming this weekend.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15808640
> 
> 
> You will NOT believe this. I just picked up my brand new replacement AVM50v! Apparently Anthem accidentally shipped my order to my dealer twice and he had not shipped the second shipment back yet . . . so, long story short, I have a 100% new unit w/a new ARC kit sitting in my living room right now. I don't know where I accumulated enough good karma for this kind of outcome but I'll take it! ARC update coming this weekend.



Do you know any good Lotto numbers you would care to share?











--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

I was wondering, when I get my avm50 back from factory.

do I need to install software to the unit are just download arc1 program to my laptop?

I'm scared....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15809643
> 
> 
> I was wondering, when I get my avm50 back from factory.
> 
> do I need to install software to the unit are just download arc1 program to my laptop?
> 
> I'm scared....



Don't be scared this is just rocket science










You just need ARC on your laptop.


----------



## Rob Tomlin

Couple questions/observations:


I've been playing with my Pioneer Elite 59avi and CD's. I tried comparing the HDMI output vs. using the analog outputs to the D2. I found that using the analog outputs sounded noticeably better than using HDMI to the D2. Also, the noise floor was noticeably higher using HDMI.


Why would that be?


Also, is there any way to use the remote control to change the volume when using headphones?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/15810464
> 
> 
> Couple questions/observations:
> 
> 
> I've been playing with my Pioneer Elite 59avi and CD's. I tried comparing the HDMI output vs. using the analog outputs to the D2. I found that using the analog outputs sounded noticeably better than using HDMI to the D2. Also, the noise floor was noticeably higher using HDMI.
> 
> 
> Why would that be?
> 
> 
> Also, is there any way to use the remote control to change the volume when using headphones?



Rob,

With my Arcam I tried the same thing only using optical. I used AnalogDSP for the optical and turned on EQ to let ARC do it's thing. Big improvement over analog.

John


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/15810464
> 
> 
> Couple questions/observations:
> 
> 
> I've been playing with my Pioneer Elite 59avi and CD's. I tried comparing the HDMI output vs. using the analog outputs to the D2. I found that using the analog outputs sounded noticeably better than using HDMI to the D2. Also, the noise floor was noticeably higher using HDMI.



Is that using the analog pass through or the re-digitizing (with or witout ARC) on the D2?


----------



## zuesmaximus

Sweet,

I'm going to order the arc kit today, but def- not at 6ave.

I need to locate an other Anthem dealer.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15811564
> 
> 
> Sweet,
> 
> I'm going to order the arc kit today, but def- not at 6ave.
> 
> I need to locate an other Anthem dealer.



I almost ordered my ARC from 6th.


That is one thing you don't have to worry about.


It is FULL-PROOF


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15809643
> 
> 
> I was wondering, when I get my avm50 back from factory.
> 
> do I need to install software to the unit are just download arc1 program to my laptop?
> 
> I'm scared....



The only thing you need to be scared of is your reaction after you hear the difference









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15811928
> 
> 
> The only thing you need to be scared of is your reaction after you hear the difference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Ya John - you are correct but there is another side effect.


After ARC setup and calibration - I could hear distortion

from my 29 year old Right and Left Front Speakers.


Now I'm REBUILDING the Speakers. Infinitely cheaper

than replacing them [GRIN]!


I would not have found the defective speaker without ARC


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15811969
> 
> 
> Ya John - you are correct but there is another side effect.
> 
> 
> After ARC setup and calibration - I could hear distortion
> 
> from my 29 year old Right and Left Front Speakers.
> 
> 
> Now I'm REBUILDING the Speakers. Infinitely cheaper
> 
> than replacing them [GRIN]!
> 
> 
> I would not have found the defective speaker without ARC



Hank,

maybe you should let Nick know so he can put it in the ARC notes as a new feature









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15812523
> 
> 
> Hank,
> 
> maybe you should let Nick know so he can put it in the ARC notes as a new feature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Probably not a feature they would like to advertise


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15812609
> 
> 
> Probably not a feature they would like to advertise



In this thread, we not only advertise it, we've given it a name!

*Richard Syndrome: Discovering, with the aid of ARC, that you've been living with, and apparently enjoying, a broken speaker!*










--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15813138
> 
> 
> In this thread, we not only advertise it, we've given it a name!
> 
> *Richard Syndrome: Discovering, with the aid of ARC, that you've been living with, and apparently enjoying, a broken speaker!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Can we abbreviate that


----------



## zuesmaximus

nice, I'm excited to hear the difference with arc1.

I replaced my old monitor golds fronts with revel f32s.

they sounded great in the store but so-so in my family room.

My avm50 arrived at Paradigm NY yesterday


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/15810464
> 
> 
> Couple questions/observations:
> 
> 
> I've been playing with my Pioneer Elite 59avi and CD's. I tried comparing the HDMI output vs. using the analog outputs to the D2. I found that using the analog outputs sounded noticeably better than using HDMI to the D2. Also, the noise floor was noticeably higher using HDMI.
> 
> 
> Why would that be?
> 
> 
> Also, is there any way to use the remote control to change the volume when using headphones?




For CD playback I go even further with a dedicated CD/DAC. Don't forget that all pre-pro DACs are optimized for Multichannel movie playback. Audio stere is not the top priority. Menwhile most peoples are happy whit that.


The remote should automatically switch to headphone


----------



## Bob Pariseau

**************************************************


Breaking news!


IMPORTANT WARNING: "Test" Firmware V2.02c has just been withdrawn. It contains a new speaker level bug that breaks both manual and ARC speaker level calibration! Do not install "test" firmware V2.02c! In the unlikely event you've already installed it (it just came out, so dang! you're quick!) you should simply re-install your prior firmware version.


I'm leaving the rest of this post intact so folks can know what we're talking about. The new "test" ARC software also described below can still be used.


**************************************************


*New "Test" Software Appears on Password Protected Download Page!*


Lots of news this morning!


First, "test" firmware V2.02c for the D2v and AVM 50v has just appeared on Anthem's password protected download page. The release notes for the V2.xx firmware stream read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.02c (beta):
> 
> 
> 1. Further fixes for audio DSP stability.
> 
> 
> 2. Fix for deep color output.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for menu 5 manual test noises.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.02:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for audio dropouts with PCM input.
> 
> 
> 2. Fix for ARC test sweeps.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.00 D2v / v2.01 AVM 50v:
> 
> 
> Initial releases.



In addition to these typically sparse release notes, I've just received an email from Nick on this software. He says that the fixes span the new DSP (audio) code, the motherboard (basic system functions like front panel), HDMI code, and the video processor. He says it is believed to fix most of the problems reported in the original software with two notable exceptions:


First, there is a problem with HDMI YCbCr gray scale levels (blacks and whites). The gray scale that typically results is too low -- i.e., you have to raise Brightness and Contrast to get things back to where they should be. What's worse is that there is more than one incorrect result meaning that if you force a new handshake you may end up with different blacks/whites levels that are still wrong. The problem appears to be on the HDMI input side, meaning that the work you do using the Anthem's internal test charts to set the video levels in your display is still correct, but adjustments you then make in the Video Source Adjust menu to account for each source device are different from what they should be. Clipping of Blacker than Black data can also result from this. This is a nasty one, and Anthem is focussing on fixing this as quickly as possible.


At the moment, a workaround if you are seeing this is to use RGB video input. HDMI input gray scale levels for both Studio and Extended RGB input appear to be correct and stable. Another workaround is to cycle inputs away from the source and back to force a new handshake as necessary when a handshake results with different gray scale levels than what existed when you did your Video Source Adjust setup for it.


I don't have an ETA for a proper fix.


----------------------------------------


Second, Anthem has determined that reverse telecine can be made to work correctly in the D2v if only one HDMI output is live. Rather than release that, they are awaiting a VXP firmware fix from Sigma Designs that allows it to work properly with both HDMI outputs live.


Reverse telecine is the stutter free conversion of 480i/60 or 1080i/60 input to 1080p/24 output when viewing film-based content, i.e., content that was originally captured at the film frame rate of 24 frames per second and then "raised" to 30 frames per second (60 fields per second) for broadcast or for putting on SD-DVDs through the telecine process that has been used since the dawn of TV.


Attempting this right now produces stuttering video. The workaround is to use 1080p/60 output instead of 1080p/24 output for all 480i/60 or 1080i/60 input video.


I don't have an ETA on the finished fix for this, but it is good to know they are actively working on it.


----------------------------------------------------


Although the release notes don't mention it, since DSP fixes are involved I think it would be wise to assume you need to re-Measure, Calculate and Upload new ARC results for use with the V2.02c "test" firmware.


*===========================================*



Next "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 has also just been released on Anthem's password protected download page. This is for all ARC capable Anthem units, not just the D2v and AVM 50v. The release notes for changes since the current "official" version of ARC, V2.0.1, read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.0.1.1 beta:
> 
> 
> Fixed gain matching for frequencies above max EQ frequency. If updating from v2.0.1, it must be uninstalled through Add/Remove Programs in Control Panel before this version is installable.



This was not the fix I was expecting, but could easily be related to that expected improvement of lowest frequency bass results for those rare folks who are lowering the Max EQ Frequency Target below the default 5KHz value. The problem referred to in the release notes is that ARC only uses Measurements up to the Max EQ Frequency when analyzing the speaker volume trims. That means if you lower Max EQ Frequency and your average speaker output above that frequency is much louder or much softer than your average speaker output below that frequency then the speaker volume trim calculated by ARC doesn't get set to the optimal value.


Please note the warning in the release notes: The installer won't let you install this version on top of ARC V2.0.1 directly (apparently it shows as the same version to the installer), so you have to uninstall ARC V2.0.1 first using Windows Add/Remove Programs. Uninstalling ARC, in the past, has left your pair of serialized licensing/calibration files still in place in the Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction folder. If that remains true then there is nothing special you will need to do to get those two files in there for the ARC V2.0.1.1 install. If not, just copy those two files in.


The release notes do not mention if re-Measurement is necessary, so it would be wise to assume that you DO need to re-Measure to get the full value of this fix.


*==============================================*



As usual, "test" software is still being field tested and may have some surprises in it. Generally speaking you should not install "test" software versions unless you are fighting one of the mentioned problems (in which case Anthem tech support will ask you to try the test software) or you have an unusual tolerance for potential software problems. Keep copies of your Anthem settings, and be prepared that you may need to back out the "test" software and re-install the previous version.


Also, since we have so many newbies entering this thread at the moment, take careful note of the firmware install instructions that come on screen when you run the firmware installer. If you have not completed any of the prep instructions, exit the installer and do those steps before allowing the install to continue. In particular you must make sure you have no powered HDMI connections during a firmware install. Many HDMI source and display devices leave their HDMI sockets powered even though the device appears OFF. Rather than pulling the delicate HDMI plugs, I recommend you remove wall power from everything in your system except for the Anthem and the computer you are using for the install. Also be aware that you must Reload Factory Defaults prior to the firmware install. If you have up to date values in Saved User and/or Installer Settings, or if you have Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu settings saved to PC files, you can reload from those after the firmware install.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*See the IMPORTANT WARNING I just edited into my post above. The new "test" firmware V2.02c has just been withdrawn. If you already have it, do not install it. If you have already installed it, re-install your prior firmware version.*

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*It's a D2v !!*


Well, after that fire drill above, I have some MUCH more pleasant news to report:


We here at "Bob Pariseau" are delighted to announce the safe delivery of a bouncing baby D2v! Weighing 27 lbs, no ounces (unpacked), both owner and D2v are doing fine!


We intend to home school our D2v with new software this evening.


Gee, I hope it doesn't get cranky if we keep it up all night!


-----------------------------------------


Meanwhile our beloved D2, which has given us many years of faithful service, has been put out to well deserved stud. We wish it long and happy life in its new role.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

An update from Nick on the "test" firmware. The problem with V2.02c only shows up when you try to do a calibration pass -- for example when you re-Measure with ARC. If you use V2.02c with existing ARC results, that works.


He thinks that they'll have a fix for this before they break for the Canadian 3 day weekend, so there may very well be a replacement "test" firmware version by the end of the day.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Best wishes to the family on your new addition









I got an email from Nick saying the test firmware had fixed the Dark Knight dropouts. Too bad it was so short lived









John

ps. If you need help with you D2v setup, I'm available









John


----------



## jayray

More dropouts during Predator at the 24 and 46 min. mark. Looking forward to the fix.

John


----------



## Korey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15805915
> 
> 
> Thanks. I downloaded the ARC software before, but didn't notice the XLS in there - thanks for pointing it out. If I can get that fully working (it looks like any other RS232 spec sheet, so assuming the D2v is reliable over RS232), then the IR should be unnecessary.
> 
> 
> I can program my remotes with the Anthem remote, but it would be easier to just have one configured already. I checked RC.com, but there was nothing there (that I saw or could find at least).



I have a D1 and control it over serial, it is 100% reliable with way more options than IR.


I use a Nevo Q50 , my configuration file can be found on Remote Central .


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2v/AVM50v V2.02b firmware: HDMI LPCM 7.1 channel input to 5.1 speaker output bug!*


If you have only a 5.1 speaker configuration and you feed 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM to the D2v or AVM 50v running the V2.02b firmware, then the Anthem will mistakenly ignore your speaker configuration and send audio to the unconnected Rear Surround speaker jacks instead of mixing it into the Side Surround speakers as it is supposed to.


You can check to see if this is happening by pressing Select on the remote repeatedly until the audio output speaker set is displayed when playing a 7.1 channel input track. If the LR and RR speakers are shown in the output display and you only have a 5.1 speaker configuration, then you are being bitten by this bug and you are losing some of your surround audio. [NOTE: It is correct for the LR/RR channels to show in the *INPUT* display when playing a 7.1 channel input track.]


This has been reported to Anthem, and with any luck we'll discover it is already fixed when they re-release the new, "test" V2.02c firmware later today.


The workaround for now is to set you source devices to down mix 7.1 channel audio tracks to HDMI LPCM 5.1 channel audio for output to the Anthem.


For example, in the PS3 do the automated HDMI setup for audio, but instead of simply accepting the results list it shows you, select the option to edit that and clear the check marks for every 7.1 channel audio output option. Then accept those changes.


I discovered this only after installing V2.02b, so I don't know if this problem exists in the original V2.02 firmware.


If you have a 7.1 speaker configuration, there's nothing you need to do except make sure your sources are all set up to output 7.1 channel tracks to the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

just ordered my arc kit today, since my unit is at the factory we asked to install it there. hope they will.

inquiered about upgrading my avm50 to avm50v not good idea but what I was told...

I can't wait to get it back!!!

Anthem dealer in Morris Plains NJ were very helpful!


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/15811535
> 
> 
> Is that using the analog pass through or the re-digitizing (with or witout ARC) on the D2?



Good question and I am not certain of the answer. I do not have ARC.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/15813505
> 
> 
> For CD playback I go even further with a dedicated CD/DAC. Don't forget that all pre-pro DACs are optimized for Multichannel movie playback. Audio stere is not the top priority. Menwhile most peoples are happy whit that.



Interesting. That would certainly explain it then. What you are saying is that the DAC's in my Pioneer Elite are better than the D2, right?



> Quote:
> The remote should automatically switch to headphone



How?


I use the remote and it just controls the volume of the speakers, not the headphones. I have to push the headphone button on the D2 itself, then adjust the volume while headphone volume is displayed...which only lasts for a few seconds.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Woo Hoo! New "Test" Firmware V2.02c(13feb) Now Up!*


New "test" firmware V2.02c(13feb) for the D2v and AVM 50v has appeared on Anthem's password protected download page.


This is the re-release of the V2.02c "test" firmware released/withdrawn earlier this morning. This version fixes the speaker level calibration problem that forced the withdrawal of that earlier version. In addition, Nick tells me they think they have fixed the YCbCr gray scale problem (still needs to be confirmed)! The 7.1 to 5.1 down mix failure I just reported above is also now in this list as a fix, as is JAYRAY's audio dropout issue.


Here are the release notes for the V2.xx firmware stream:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.02c (beta):
> 
> 
> Bug fixes for:
> 
> 
> 1. "The Dark Night" BD on PS3 audio dropout at 1:20:07.
> 
> 
> 2. Level Calibration menu.
> 
> 
> 3. 7.1 to 5.1 downmix.
> 
> 
> 4. YCbCr black level / grayscale.
> 
> 
> 5. Various front panel display updates.
> 
> 
> 6. Deep color output.
> 
> 
> 7. Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD work up to 192 kHz.
> 
> 
> 8. PCM input over HDMI now supports up to 192 kHz with all common input configurations (2.0, 2.1, 5.1, 7.1 etc.)
> 
> 
> 9. Rears when 5.1 input is detected with PLIIx Movie applied (switching to None and back was the previous work-around to get sound from rears).
> 
> 
> 
> VIDEO PROCESSOR SETTINGS WILL BE LOST when this version is installed unless v2.02b is now in the processor. If using v2.02a or prior, the settings can be saved and transferred using Live Video Settings Editor.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.02:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for audio dropouts with PCM input.
> 
> 
> 2. Fix for ARC test sweeps.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.00 D2v / v2.01 AVM 50v:
> 
> 
> Initial releases.



Off to home school my new D2v!


ETA: CAUTION -- Note carefully the warning that Video Source Adjust menu settings will be lost in this upgrade. It is actually the transition from V2.02a to V2.02b that caused this, so if you already have V2.02b installed you should not have this problem. But if coming from a version older than V2.02b you should use the Live Video Settings Editor utility Windows application (found with the ARC install software) to save and restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15813805
> 
> *It's a D2v !!*
> 
> 
> Well, after that fire drill above, I have some MUCH more pleasant news to report:
> 
> 
> We here at "Bob Pariseau" are delighted to announce the safe delivery of a bouncing baby D2v! Weighing 27 lbs, no ounces (unpacked), both owner and D2v are doing fine!
> 
> 
> We intend to home school our D2v with new software this evening.
> 
> 
> Gee, I hope it doesn't get cranky if we keep it up all night!
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> --Bob



What do you plan on feeding that baby?


----------



## jayray

Nick just emailed me that the fixed firmware is up.


Release notes.


CHANGE LIST



v2.02c (beta):


Bug fixes for:


1. "The Dark Night" BD on PS3 audio dropout at 1:20:07.


2. Level Calibration menu.


3. 7.1 to 5.1 downmix.


4. YCbCr black level / grayscale.


5. Various front panel display updates.


6. Deep color output.


7. Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD work up to 192 kHz.


8. PCM input over HDMI now supports up to 192 kHz with all common input configurations (2.0, 2.1, 5.1, 7.1 etc.)


9. Rears when 5.1 input is detected with PLIIx Movie applied (switching to None and back was the previous work-around to get sound from rears).



VIDEO PROCESSOR SETTINGS WILL BE LOST when this version is installed unless v2.02b is now in the processor. If using v2.02a or prior, the settings can be saved and transferred using Live Video Settings Editor.


Hard to beat Bob to the draw. Sorry for the redundant post.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Yosemite Sam voice* "Ahm the fastest poster north, south, east, AAAAANND WEST of the Pecos!"










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/15815973
> 
> 
> What do you plan on feeding that baby?



Mostly I intend to spoil it with Blu-Rays.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15816095
> 
> 
> Mostly I intend to spoil it with Blu-Rays.
> 
> --Bob



Careful, that baby's gonna get FAT!










Bob, can you answer my question about changing the headphone volume with the remote? Can it be done?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/15816140
> 
> 
> Careful, that baby's gonna get FAT!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob, can you answer my question about changing the headphone volume with the remote? Can it be done?



Sure. See Section 4.5 of the Manual.


While in Main path, press "Fronts" twice on the front panel or on the remote and then use the big knob on the front panel or the Vol+/- buttons on the remote. The "FRT" button on the remote is the little button up and to the left of the arrow keys.


In Setup you can set the power on volume level for the headphones as well as whether the main speakers are to be automatically muted whenever the headphone jack is plugged in.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Installed V. 2.02c and all went well. Reloaded ARC after and saved settings. Will test sometime, hopefully tonigt to see if our wishlist was fulfilled.

John


----------



## flavorguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15815943
> 
> 
> just ordered my arc kit today, since my unit is at the factory we asked to install it there. hope they will.
> 
> inquiered about upgrading my avm50 to avm50v not good idea but what I was told...
> 
> I can't wait to get it back!!!
> 
> Anthem dealer in Morris Plains NJ were very helpful!



Zuesmaximus -I was wondering if you saw my post earlier. They are good guys and I couldn't recommend them any higher...


----------



## bluemark81

Hey all! Just ordered a Pioneer 151FD Elite to make sure I get one while they are still available. Can't wait for it to arrive.


----------



## zuesmaximus

flavorguy,

yeap from your post found them. Not too far from where I live. Very good guys!

He called Anthem so that they will install arc kit.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15813805
> 
> *It's a D2v !!*
> 
> 
> Well, after that fire drill above, I have some MUCH more pleasant news to report:
> 
> 
> We here at "Bob Pariseau" are delighted to announce the safe delivery of a bouncing baby D2v! Weighing 27 lbs, no ounces (unpacked), both owner and D2v are doing fine!
> 
> 
> We intend to home school our D2v with new software this evening.
> 
> 
> Gee, I hope it doesn't get cranky if we keep it up all night!
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Meanwhile our beloved D2, which has given us many years of faithful service, has been put out to well deserved stud. We wish it long and happy life in its new role.
> 
> --Bob



CONGRATULATIONS







Try not to spoil your new baby too much; but, I know that will be very hard. Enjoy it, and I am sure you are going to let us know how it compared to your previous D2. Have FUN!!!!!


----------



## flynnflamman

The D2v that I ordered on Jan 3 arrived at my dealer on Wednesday, 02/11. I was able to pick it yesterday and was disappointed to find it only had ver. 2.00 loaded. I tracked the UPS label on the box and it listed it shipped on 02/05.


Bob - any crumbs left?

____________________

Kevin


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flynnflamman* /forum/post/15816699
> 
> 
> The D2v that I ordered on Jan 3 arrived at my dealer on Wednesday, 02/11. I was able to pick it yesterday and was disappointed to find it only had ver. 2.00 loaded. I tracked the UPS label on the box and it listed it shipped on 02/05.
> 
> 
> Bob - any crumbs left?
> 
> ____________________
> 
> Kevin



'Fraid not. The cookie lovers have already been and gone.


From the number of fixes that are rolling into the "test" releases right now, I suspect we'll see an "official" 2.03 release fairly soon. But if you get in touch with Anthem tech support on Tuesday (Canada is closed this Monday) they can probably give you access to 2.02c or whatever they are up to by then.


Or you could just sit tight on 2.00 for a while until things settle down a bit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My new D2v ate up all of its V2.02c update without a complaint.


The big news for me is that the YCbCr gray scale problem seems to be almost completely fixed. Based on preliminary testing, the best video levels setup I had with my prior D2 now works as well in the D2v for my various sources. And for devices that can output both YCbCr and Studio RGB, the gray scale levels setup that works for one also works for the other, which is how it is supposed to be.


I say almost fixed because I find my PS3 can still end up in an incorrect gray scale after an HDMI handshake into YCbCr 4:4:4. The error this time is in the opposite direction -- way too bright. If Video Source Adjust > Brightness of 50 is your "correct" set up, this bad gray scale result now requires lowering Brightness down to around 39, so the error is not subtle.


The good news is that switching the D2v to a different input and then back to the PS3 seems to fix the problem.


The problem gray scale seems to happen every time I switch from the PS3's XMB user interface (which outputs RGB video) to YCbCr 4:4:4 for video from a disc.


Again, if this happens, the workaround is to leave the PS3 outputting YCbCr 4:4:4 (e.g., pause the disc) and then switch the D2v to a different HDMI input and back to the PS3. You should also do this when playing calibration discs to make sure you are getting the correct gray scale out of the PS3 before you go to the effort of adjusting your blacks/whites/gamma correction settings.


This bug does not affect the video output produced by the D2v's internally generated test patterns (Video Source Adjust > Patterns), so you don't have to worry about it while using those patterns to set the video levels in your display. You have to worry about it when setting the Video Source Adjust > Picture settings for each source device.


So the good news is that you can now get the "correct" gray scale results. The bad news is that with at least the PS3 this may require some manual cycling of inputs to get the HDMI handshake right.


-----------------------------------------------


In addition the 7.1 input to 5.1 speaker down mix also appears to be not quite fixed yet.


After doing the automated HDMI setup in the PS3, when you display the PS3's XMB user interface it sends 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM to the D2v. That works fine. The problem is that if you have only a 5.1 speaker output configuration the D2v now thinks it should send output to a non-existent Center Rear speaker. Anthem has been notified.


Again the workaround is to set each source to send no more than 5.1 channel HDMI LPCM if you have a 5.1 speaker configuration. I suspect this one will be easy for Anthem to fix.

--Bob


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15815975
> 
> 
> Nick just emailed me that the fixed firmware is up.
> 
> 
> Release notes.
> 
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.02c (beta):
> 
> 
> Bug fixes for:
> 
> 
> 
> 6. Deep color output.
> 
> 
> John



Ok. I have verified that deep color does indeed work. I did have an issue with some garbled audio from Narnia Bluray until I cycled power. Probably could have cycled input but power button was closer.



Ok have checked this with Frame Lock Auto and there are issues...I've had it never show the video from my PS3...and other times it works....It seems it may be related to selecting Auto rather than 4:4:4.


----------



## jayray

The video issues for my setup have been fixed. Brightness,contrast are back to where they were with my AVM50. BTB now shows on DVE patterns. The dropout has been fixed for Dark Knight although there was a very short moment in which the sound appeared to go out but for all intended purposes, it seems fixed. Haven't tried Predator which gave me problems today prior to the firmware update.

John

Predator did not dropout this time. Great. I also haven't had the same PS3 problem as Bob.


----------



## AbMagFab

Okay, got my new D2v today, and I love it. Just the initial setup has the picture looking amazing, I love that it keeps the TV synch when upscaling (i.e. changing source device resolutions doesn't cause a new handshake with the display), and the sound, uncalibrated, is already noticably better.


However, I can't get ARC to run. It keeps failing saying "Excessive background noise". I've disabled all other mic's on the laptop, and my HT has ambient noise below 17db.


I'm running it on Vista.


Any thoughts? Using Vista, the mic is recognized, and seems to be "hearing" properly (i.e. the sound coming in matches what gets recorded through Windows).


I'm not sure what to do next...


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15816205
> 
> 
> Sure. See Section 4.5 of the Manual.
> 
> 
> While in Main path, press "Fronts" twice on the front panel or on the remote and then use the big knob on the front panel or the Vol+/- buttons on the remote. The "FRT" button on the remote is the little button up and to the left of the arrow keys.
> 
> 
> In Setup you can set the power on volume level for the headphones as well as whether the main speakers are to be automatically muted whenever the headphone jack is plugged in.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I'm a boob. I must have spent an hour looking for that button on the remote last night. Ok, maybe not an hour, but long enough to feel like a boob!


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15817277
> 
> 
> Okay, got my new D2v today, and I love it. Just the initial setup has the picture looking amazing, I love that it keeps the TV synch when upscaling (i.e. changing source device resolutions doesn't cause a new handshake with the display), and the sound, uncalibrated, is already noticably better.
> 
> 
> However, I can't get ARC to run. It keeps failing saying "Excessive background noise". I've disabled all other mic's on the laptop, and my HT has ambient noise below 17db.
> 
> 
> I'm running it on Vista.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts? Using Vista, the mic is recognized, and seems to be "hearing" properly (i.e. the sound coming in matches what gets recorded through Windows).
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what to do next...



Interesting... I had to set my P5/P2 to XLR -6db to get this to work. Does that sound normal?


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15815943
> 
> 
> inquiered about upgrading my avm50 to avm50v not good idea but what I was told...



Ok, I'll bite, why.....


----------



## obie_fl

Rob did you ever check to see if you were doing analog direct with the 59AVi? I might be able to buy that analog direct could be a little more appealing then the D2 DACs but if you are doing the A/D and using the D2s DAC I can't imagine why it would be drastically different.


For the record I did quite a bit of comparison with my Pioneer 79AVi and in the long run did not hear enough difference between analog and digital to bother messing with analog after that. With ARC it is really a no brainer I stick to digital all the way. I also played around with my standalone DAC into the D2. I felt the D2 held its own quite well. Now analog out of my Oppo was a different story as I thought it was worse and I'm still not convinced its digital DSD to PCM is as good as the PS3 for SACD. Long story short I'm now all digital in to the D2.


I have to take that back a bit as I still use the standalone DAC with my two channel tube set rig upstairs. But to be honest with ARC I'm even doing most of my two channel listening with the D2 down in the HT.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15817463
> 
> 
> Interesting... I had to set my P5/P2 to XLR -6db to get this to work. Does that sound normal?



I suspect this is normal. There is a standard 6dB difference between RCA and XLR, and usually you have to set the amp to expect that. See the audio connections section in the manual -- 2.2 or 2.3 as I recall.


Does this mean ARC is working for you now?


If not, try raising Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level a few dB. That controls the volume of the test sweep tones that ARC uses.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

So Bob are you getting the hang of your new baby?

These guys are kinda complicated you know










Rob, obie_fl,

FWIW, I've been using a 5910 via analog for Hi-Res music since day one.

Since upgrading & calibrating with the latest version of ARC,I've been doing a little A\\B testing.

I'm a little sad to say that the D2\\ARC really does a fantastic job with multi-channel music. I'm not sure yet if I'm ready to settle on (ARC) vs straight analog from the Denon but with certain discs the difference is pretty noticeable, especially regarding sub-woofer integration.

The coherency of the soundstage and imaging is beautiful.

PS, I've always found the Pioneer Elites and upper-end Denons to be very sweet sounding units.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15817463
> 
> 
> Interesting... I had to set my P5/P2 to XLR -6db to get this to work. Does that sound normal?



Wow, uploading now, but if those calculated response curves are anything close to real, the sound is going to be amazing. And the calculated sub curve looks rediculous!


I noticed I have a big fat 200hz void with my FL/FR, but other than that, my room looks pretty good. The acoustic treatments looks like they actually might be helping.


Here's a picture of my happy new D2v with it's partners the P2 and P5:


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15817860



Holly heck, thats some weght that rack is holding!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here are the charts for my D2v's shiny new "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 setup paired with "test" firmware V2.02c(13feb). These are Calculated at a Max EQ Frequency Target of 20KHz.


Early listening tests are positive.


I noticed that at the end of each speaker's sweep tone set for each mic position, there was a medium low volume "Snap!" sound. It sounded kind of like a loud relay sound, but I think it was coming from the LF speaker. I suspect the software has a bit of a glitch properly muting things at the end of each sweep tone set. Reported to Anthem.


The charts shown here have a basic volume level 4dB higher than what ARC V2.0.1 produced with my D2. This is surprising since the Uploaded speaker volume trims and the shapes of the curves themselves are unchanged.


Since ARC V2.0.1.1 included a change in how speaker volume trims are calculated, this may be an artifact of that. It makes no practical difference of course, but still I reported it to Anthem.


The Targets window is also attached. The Uploaded crossover values matched the cutoffs shown in the Targets window except for the sub. The Uploaded sub crossover for both Movie and Music was 75Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

AbMagFab,

Wow, extremely nice rack.

Do you have dedicated circuits for all that horsepower?


----------



## bluemark81

I'm wondering if anyone knows if Anthem has corrected the hum/hiss issue that some of the AVM50 owners are experiencing yet? I still have it with mine....been several months now and the last info I got from Anthem on it was that they were waiting to ship the new versions before working on this issue. That was 2 to 3 months ago now I think.


For those who are not familiar with the issue, see the following link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FglzO4F303k 


It occurs when I switch sources or start up a source. Blu-ray is the worst where it take so long to load.


----------



## AbMagFab

Okay, my first ARC test run is complete. So what do these look like to people who have experience?


I can say that the sound is dramatically improved from before. It's clearer overall, but more impressive is that it's like the side walls of my theater have been removed, or pushed out about 8 feet each. When I close my eyes, it's like I'm in a much wider room, which is just weird! But amazing.


Anyway, attached is my first run. I just did 5 positions using advanced, and set it to go through 20KHz, but otherwise didn't do anything different (e.g. Music). Anyone have advice on the Music side?


As for Video, I just have my Tivo and HTPC hooked up, and both set to upscale to 1080p60. Amazingly, even 1080p24 looks great when using the D2v to upscale to 60p - no stutter that I can see, and I'm usually very sensitive to it. Also, the 1080i/720p from the Tivo looks much improved, and SD content looks substantially improved. I'm surprised to see so much video improvement, as I've been underwhelmed historically by all the VP's I've seen.


So - any advice on what to tackle next? Any advice on my fist ARC run?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15818361
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone knows if Anthem has corrected the hum/hiss issue that some of the AVM50 owners are experiencing yet? I still have it with mine....been several months now and the last info I got from Anthem on it was that they were waiting to ship the new versions before working on this issue. That was 2 to 3 months ago now I think.



I've not heard that they have a fix for this yet, but I do know they are working on a V1.34 firmware release for the D2 and AVM 50 to address a number of pending bug fixes. I suggest an email to Anthem tech support to make sure this fix is in the mix.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/15818357
> 
> 
> AbMagFab,
> 
> Wow, extremely nice rack.
> 
> Do you have dedicated circuits for all that horsepower?



Yeah, 2 dedicated 20A circuits, although right now it's all only plugged into one. Haven't had any issues so far.


Not shown on that are my Tivo and HTPC, and my currently homeless XB360 and PS3 (there's no more room, as it's a 5.5-foot closet! I need to hook them up somehow though, but it can wait a bit...).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15818369
> 
> 
> Okay, my first ARC test run is complete. So what do these look like to people who have experience?
> 
> 
> I can say that the sound is dramatically improved from before. It's clearer overall, but more impressive is that it's like the side walls of my theater have been removed, or pushed out about 8 feet each. When I close my eyes, it's like I'm in a much wider room, which is just weird! But amazing.
> 
> 
> Anyway, attached is my first run. I just did 5 positions using advanced, and set it to go through 20KHz, but otherwise didn't do anything different (e.g. Music). Anyone have advice on the Music side?
> 
> 
> As for Video, I just have my Tivo and HTPC hooked up, and both set to upscale to 1080p60. Amazingly, even 1080p24 looks great when using the D2v to upscale to 60p - no stutter that I can see, and I'm usually very sensitive to it. Also, the 1080i/720p from the Tivo looks much improved, and SD content looks substantially improved. I'm surprised to see so much video improvement, as I've been underwhelmed historically by all the VP's I've seen.
> 
> 
> So - any advice on what to tackle next? Any advice on my fist ARC run?



These look fine for a first run and I'm not surprised they sound very good indeed!


Your sub is showing that it is good down to about 25Hz, which is better than most. High frequencies are correcting nicely. You have decent Room Gain. And the transition between the mains and the sub looks like it should be working fine as well.


The only real problem you've got is a nasty room cancellation null near 200Hz that is coupling with all 3 of your front speakers (and even your Rears). As it turns out, ARC is able to correct that for Center and Right Front, but the dip experienced by Left Front goes beyond what ARC will completely correct (to keep from stressing the speakers and amps).


Your maximum residual error in the LF is about 5 or 6dB at 200Hz, and that's enough that it is worth trying to correct. What you want to do is alter the way your LF speaker couples to the room modes -- the standing waves that get created due to the geometry of your room -- which are producing this cancellation. Shifting the position of the speaker vertically or in distance from the nearest wall/corner is one method. Room bass treatments (things that deaden bass reflections) is another.


All you need to do is fill in about half of that dip and ARC will take care of the rest. Compare with the red Measured curve shown for the RF speaker for example. The dip is still quite strong at 200Hz, but it is mild enough that ARC was able to correct it completely.


The LF speaker is showing such a large peak near 40Hz (completely corrected by ARC) that I suspect you may have it set into a corner. If so, moving it away from the corner (even inches matter) could have a good effect at 200Hz as well. Consider what is different about the setup of your LF and your RF speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Korey

Hey guys,


I only have a _lowly_ D1







I usually just watch movies with Dolby Digital / DTS 5.1. as I have no HDMI inputs. I recently picked up a 9B and now have 2 extra channels begging to be used. Is adding rears worthwhile in my situation, or is it a waste of time for anything but discreet 7.1?


Thanks,


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/15817652
> 
> 
> Rob did you ever check to see if you were doing analog direct with the 59AVi? I might be able to buy that analog direct could be a little more appealing then the D2 DACs but if you are doing the A/D and using the D2s DAC I can't imagine why it would be drastically different.
> 
> 
> For the record I did quite a bit of comparison with my Pioneer 79AVi and in the long run did not hear enough difference between analog and digital to bother messing with analog after that. With ARC it is really a no brainer I stick to digital all the way. I also played around with my standalone DAC into the D2. I felt the D2 held its own quite well. Now analog out of my Oppo was a different story as I thought it was worse and I'm still not convinced its digital DSD to PCM is as good as the PS3 for SACD. Long story short I'm now all digital in to the D2.
> 
> 
> I have to take that back a bit as I still use the standalone DAC with my two channel tube set rig upstairs. But to be honest with ARC I'm even doing most of my two channel listening with the D2 down in the HT.



I will double check, but I am pretty sure that it is straight analog. Believe me, I am at least as surprised as you are. If anything, I was thinking that the hdmi to the D2 would give the better sound, but it was noticeably NOT the case.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/15817775
> 
> 
> 
> Rob, obie_fl,
> 
> FWIW, I've been using a 5910 via analog for Hi-Res music since day one.
> 
> Since upgrading & calibrating with the latest version of ARC,I've been doing a little A\\B testing.
> 
> I'm a little sad to say that the D2\\ARC really does a fantastic job with multi-channel music. I'm not sure yet if I'm ready to settle on (ARC) vs straight analog from the Denon but with certain discs the difference is pretty noticeable, especially regarding sub-woofer integration.
> 
> The coherency of the soundstage and imaging is beautiful.
> 
> PS, I've always found the Pioneer Elites and upper-end Denons to be very sweet sounding units.



Thanks for the comments. Sounds like I should just stay with the analog outputs from the 59avi for now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Korey* /forum/post/15818516
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> I only have a _lowly_ D1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I usually just watch movies with Dolby Digital / DTS 5.1. as I have no HDMI inputs. I recently picked up a 9B and now have 2 extra channels begging to be used. Is adding rears worthwhile in my situation, or is it a waste of time for anything but discreet 7.1?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



PLIIx surround mode in the D1, with or without the extra THX audio post processing, does a great job raising 5.1 channel input to 7.1 speaker output.


If your room and budget allow the addition of a nice set of Rears odds are you will enjoy them quite a bit even with just 5.1 audio tracks.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15818452
> 
> 
> These look fine for a first run and I'm not surprised they sound very good indeed!
> 
> 
> Your sub is showing that it is good down to about 25Hz, which is better than most. High frequencies are correcting nicely. You have decent Room Gain. And the transition between the mains and the sub looks like it should be working fine as well.
> 
> 
> The only real problem you've got is a nasty room cancellation null near 200Hz that is coupling with all 3 of your front speakers (and even your Rears). As it turns out, ARC is able to correct that for Center and Right Front, but the dip experienced by Left Front goes beyond what ARC will completely correct (to keep from stressing the speakers and amps).
> 
> 
> Your maximum residual error in the LF is about 5 or 6dB at 200Hz, and that's enough that it is worth trying to correct. What you want to do is alter the way your LF speaker couples to the room modes -- the standing waves that get created due to the geometry of your room -- which are producing this cancellation. Shifting the position of the speaker vertically or in distance from the nearest wall/corner is one method. Room bass treatments (things that deaden bass reflections) is another.
> 
> 
> All you need to do is fill in about half of that dip and ARC will take care of the rest. Compare with the red Measured curve shown for the RF speaker for example. The dip is still quite strong at 200Hz, but it is mild enough that ARC was able to correct it completely.
> 
> 
> The LF speaker is showing such a large peak near 40Hz (completely corrected by ARC) that I suspect you may have it set into a corner. If so, moving it away from the corner (even inches matter) could have a good effect at 200Hz as well. Consider what is different about the setup of your LF and your RF speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks - good advice. Strangely, my LF is further away from walls than my RF, and my RF is really close to a wall on the right.


Also, the remaining acoustic treatments for my room are, you guessed correctly, corner bass traps in the rear corners (the screen wall is all deadened). I was always wondering if I needed them, and I guess I do.


I have a PB13-Ultra sub, and I have one of the ports sealed. I'm surprised to see it not doing well below 25Hz - do you think that's room related, or sealed/ported related, or something else? Also, I had an SMS-1 which I've removed from the equation, figuring ARC was more than enough. Should I put that back in and try to pump up below-25hz, or is there something else wrong, or is the PB13 Ultra just not capable?


I'm so excited to have this thing running! And thanks for the advice, it's very helpful. I'll do another run in a few hours (after I nail down RS232 control).


----------



## Korey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15818537
> 
> 
> PLIIx surround mode in the D1, with or without the extra THX audio post processing, does a great job raising 5.1 channel input to 7.1 speaker output.
> 
> 
> If your room and budget allow the addition of a nice set of Rears odds are you will enjoy them quite a bit even with just 5.1 audio tracks.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, you Rock.. You _are_ the fastest poster in the west!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15818645
> 
> 
> Thanks - good advice. Strangely, my LF is further away from walls than my RF, and my RF is really close to a wall on the right.
> 
> 
> Also, the remaining acoustic treatments for my room are, you guessed correctly, corner bass traps in the rear corners (the screen wall is all deadened). I was always wondering if I needed them, and I guess I do.
> 
> 
> I have a PB13-Ultra sub, and I have one of the ports sealed. I'm surprised to see it not doing well below 25Hz - do you think that's room related, or sealed/ported related, or something else? Also, I had an SMS-1 which I've removed from the equation, figuring ARC was more than enough. Should I put that back in and try to pump up below-25hz, or is there something else wrong, or is the PB13 Ultra just not capable?
> 
> 
> I'm so excited to have this thing running! And thanks for the advice, it's very helpful. I'll do another run in a few hours (after I nail down RS232 control).



Bass porting, placement near corners, and subsonic filters are the first things to check when looking for a little more bass extension. I believe your sub has adjustable subsonic filters. Putting the SMS-1 back into the mix is probably not a great answer. Also keep in mind that the bass extension specs for any sub assume the sub is properly sized for the cubic feet of air volume it has to pressurize. A sub has to huff a lot of air to pressurize a room below 20Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I think there may be a problem in DD5.1 decoding in the V2.02c(13feb) D2v firmware. I'm hearing a harshness, particularly in the Center speaker.


I don't think it is an ARC issue because I'm not hearing the harshness in DD2.0 stuff expanded to more speakers either by Anthem-Cinema or PLIIx, or when playing 5.1 HDMI LPCM content from the PS3.


The problem is that most of the DD5.1 content I listen to these days comes from Comcast and, well, anything from Comcast is suspect. But I hadn't heard this harshness prior to these recent changes in my system, so I'm putting this out just in case anyone else is hearing something like this. So much has changed simultaneously in my setup that I'm not sure how to pin this down.


-----------------------------------------------


That aside, I must say I'm really liking what I'm hearing from ARC with 2 channel input and with HDMI LPCM input!


=========================================


ETA: OK I just played a DD5.1 track I'm familiar with -- the English DD5.1 track from "Tekkonikinkreet" Blu-Ray. This is a full bit rate (640Kbps) DD5.1. I switched the PS3 back and forth between decoding that to 48KHz LPCM and sending it as a lossy bitstream to the D2v for decoding in the D2v.


There was no problem with the D2v decoding this track. In fact it sounded great! ARC really is amazing.


So whatever I've been hearing producing the harshness is either Comcast (likely) or a problem in the D2v's decoding of the lower bit rate DD 5.1 audio Comcast broadcasts (less likely). This will take a little longer to sort out.


By the way, when playing a DD5.1 bitstream for decoding in the D2v, the Video Source Adjust > Info > Audio Source item now shows "lossy".

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15817860
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of my happy new D2v with it's partners the P2 and P5:



Don't forget to put a COVER over that OPEN electrical outlet










Enjoy the Anthem Boy's Club


----------



## AbMagFab

So I've been playing with my new toy for a while now. I'm going out for the day, so sadly I won't be able to do any more until tomorrow.


1) Firmware (not ARC) 2.00 - is that the right one, or should it be upgraded?


2) When I had my previous issues with background noise, I had been using a downloaded install of ARC and just copied the license files. I uninstalled/reinstalled and set the AMPs to -6db, but I've subsequently noticed something that looks like a mic calibration file? Is that what it is, and if I didn't have that before, could that have caused the backgound noise issues? I can't test again until tomorrow, so I figured I'd ask here for now.


I'm asking because the speaker levels ended up being +4db +8db, so it's odd that I needed to set everything to -6db, only to have it upped by ~6db.


3) I love the video processing. Overall it's adding I think more contrast, as I'm seeing a lot more depth, especially in 1080i/720p content. SD content of course looks dramatically improved without looking fake. Even 24p content looks slightly but noticably improved.


However - I think the brightness or gamma is a little low? Overall my experience is that things seems a little dark. I'm torn though, because I think that's part of the increased depth/contrast I'm seeing.


Is this normal? Should I/Can I just tweak the VP brightness/gamma settings, or do I need to mess with my display (which has been professionally calibrated, so I'd rather not do that).


4) I've got initial RS232 control working from my MSC-400, which is nice. At least power on/off, source select, volume, and mute are all working. I'll be working on other items shortly, but now it appears to just be tedium rather than figuring anything out. Only thing I noticed here was I had to set the D2v to use flow control, as the default was none.


Anyway, I'm enjoying things a lot, and I look forward to improving my room acoustics (through new panels and adjusted speaker placement), as well as continuing to tweak the heck out of this thing!


If anyone has feedback on the above, I thank you in advance.

-Mark


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15818361
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone knows if Anthem has corrected the hum/hiss issue that some of the AVM50 owners are experiencing yet? I still have it with mine....been several months now and the last info I got from Anthem on it was that they were waiting to ship the new versions before working on this issue. That was 2 to 3 months ago now I think.
> 
> 
> For those who are not familiar with the issue, see the following link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FglzO4F303k
> 
> 
> It occurs when I switch sources or start up a source. Blu-ray is the worst where it take so long to load.



When I was in getting my clock fixed in my D2v, I mentioned this to Nick and he said they still were aware of it and due to the new models, priorities shifted. Bob is right in that they are going to come out with new firmware but in the mean time I feel your pain and have bugged Nick at every opportunity.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15819915
> 
> 
> So I've been playing with my new toy for a while now. I'm going out for the day, so sadly I won't be able to do any more until tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 1) Firmware (not ARC) 2.00 - is that the right one, or should it be upgraded?
> 
> 
> 2) When I had my previous issues with background noise, I had been using a downloaded install of ARC and just copied the license files. I uninstalled/reinstalled and set the AMPs to -6db, but I've subsequently noticed something that looks like a mic calibration file? Is that what it is, and if I didn't have that before, could that have caused the backgound noise issues? I can't test again until tomorrow, so I figured I'd ask here for now.
> 
> 
> I'm asking because the speaker levels ended up being +4db +8db, so it's odd that I needed to set everything to -6db, only to have it upped by ~6db.
> 
> 
> 3) I love the video processing. Overall it's adding I think more contrast, as I'm seeing a lot more depth, especially in 1080i/720p content. SD content of course looks dramatically improved without looking fake. Even 24p content looks slightly but noticably improved.
> 
> 
> However - I think the brightness or gamma is a little low? Overall my experience is that things seems a little dark. I'm torn though, because I think that's part of the increased depth/contrast I'm seeing.
> 
> 
> Is this normal? Should I/Can I just tweak the VP brightness/gamma settings, or do I need to mess with my display (which has been professionally calibrated, so I'd rather not do that).
> 
> 
> 4) I've got initial RS232 control working from my MSC-400, which is nice. At least power on/off, source select, volume, and mute are all working. I'll be working on other items shortly, but now it appears to just be tedium rather than figuring anything out. Only thing I noticed here was I had to set the D2v to use flow control, as the default was none.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'm enjoying things a lot, and I look forward to improving my room acoustics (through new panels and adjusted speaker placement), as well as continuing to tweak the heck out of this thing!
> 
> 
> If anyone has feedback on the above, I thank you in advance.
> 
> -Mark



Mark,

try the 2.02c (Feb.13) On previous page Bob and I posted the fixes in this firmware and having tried it last night, the video has been essentially fixed. A few other goodies are also included.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15818225
> 
> 
> Here are the charts for my D2v's shiny new "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 setup paired with "test" firmware V2.02c(13feb). These are Calculated at a Max EQ Frequency Target of 20KHz.
> 
> 
> Early listening tests are positive.
> 
> 
> I noticed that at the end of each speaker's sweep tone set for each mic position, there was a medium low volume "Snap!" sound. It sounded kind of like a loud relay sound, but I think it was coming from the LF speaker. I suspect the software has a bit of a glitch properly muting things at the end of each sweep tone set. Reported to Anthem.
> 
> 
> The charts shown here have a basic volume level 4dB higher than what ARC V2.0.1 produced with my D2. This is surprising since the Uploaded speaker volume trims and the shapes of the curves themselves are unchanged.
> 
> 
> Since ARC V2.0.1.1 included a change in how speaker volume trims are calculated, this may be an artifact of that. It makes no practical difference of course, but still I reported it to Anthem.
> 
> 
> The Targets window is also attached. The Uploaded crossover values matched the cutoffs shown in the Targets window except for the sub. The Uploaded sub crossover for both Movie and Music was 75Hz.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I'm getting a bit tired of measurements







but in your opinion, do think it is worth trying again using 2.0.1.1? I also have v.2.02c (Feb.13) installed so it might give us a point of comparison.

John


----------



## shawnboston

Hi All, well I finally had a chance to run my first ARC and my results are attached. What do you think? The system definitely has a lot more bass now and, all in all, it sounds better but I think it could still use some fine tuning. My sub has yet to arrive and I still need to upgrade my surrounds (in ceiling speakers).


Also, is the latest software available on the standard Anthem site or do I need to go to a different location?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15820237
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I'm getting a bit tired of measurements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but in your opinion, do think it is worth trying again using 2.0.1.1? I also have v.2.02c (Feb.13) installed so it might give us a point of comparison.
> 
> John



I'm getting a lot more subsonic bass with ARC V2.0.1.1 and firmware V2.0.2c on my D2v than I got with ARC V2.0.1 and firmware V1.33 on my D2. I'm not sure whether the difference is coming from the newer ARC or not.


When playing Blu-Rays, I haven't spotted any problems in the seamless transition of bass from the sub to the mains so I don't think it is a problem in the setting of speaker volume levels (the announced change that came in this new ARC), but it is still early days.


So far, that extra gut shaking bass is sounding great with Blu-Rays but perhaps bass is sounding a little over the top with Comcast TV when viewing DD5.1 programs. I'm reminded of the short lived ARC V1.2.4 where bass levels were mistakenly set too high.


--------------------------------------------------


Also, did I read correctly that with V2.02c you are *NOT* seeing a gray scale problem now on your PS3 when transitioning from the XMB (always RGB output) to the first video on a disc (YCbCr output)?


What do you have set in the PS3 for RGB output -- Full or Limited? I'm using Full, paired with Extended RGB in the Video Source Adjust > Color Space setting. I need to test whether switching that to Limited / Studio RGB still yields the same transition to YCbCr problem when the disc starts playing.


Also how do you have the video output set on the PS3 for Blu-Ray/SD-DVD playback? Are you using Auto for format and Auto for 1080p/24? Or have you explicitly chosen YCbCr or perhaps disabled 1080p/24?


But I'm *ALSO* seeing this bogus gray scale result when the disc transitions between 1080i/59.94 YCbCr 4:4:4 (the FBI warning screen for example) to 1080p/23.976 YCbCr 4:4:4 (the real movie content). Once the movie actually starts playing, and thus is in 1080p/23.976 for good, if I pause it and cycle inputs on the D2v, then the gray scale becomes -- and stays -- correct for the balance of the movie.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15820705
> 
> 
> Hi All, well I finally had a chance to run my first ARC and my results are attached. What do you think? The system definitely has a lot more bass now and, all in all, it sounds better but I think it could still use some fine tuning. My sub has yet to arrive and I still need to upgrade my surrounds (in ceiling speakers).
> 
> 
> Also, is the latest software available on the standard Anthem site or do I need to go to a different location?



You are in pretty good shape here although your surrounds in particular will benefit from the addition of a subwoofer to the mix.


Try raising the Max EQ Frequency value in the Targets window. Open your ARC results file in Advanced mode, make that change in Targets, accept that change, and re-Calculate. If you feel the application of ARC correction to the higher frequencies looks good -- without messing up the correction you are getting now at the lower frequencies -- then give that an Upload and a listen. No need to re-Measure to do this.


Your LF/RF and C speakers all show a dip at 15KHz that is typical of directionality problems (poorer dispersion of high frequencies). If these speakers are not mounted at seated ear height try adjusting their height or their vertical pointing. For LF/RF also consider their toe-in. Don't leave them pointed straight out from the screen nor swung around to point directly at the center seating position. Instead, try swinging them about 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular towards the center seating position.


If you raise the Max EQ Frequency Target ARC will correct most if not all of the dip at 15KHz (by default ARC doesn't apply correction above 5KHz), but improving the uncorrected Measured curves is always a good start.


Any change you make to speaker positioning/pointing will require the full ARC re-Measurement.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

With Firmware V2.02c(13feb) I'm also still seeing two different YCbCr gray scale results from my Comcast/Motorola DCH-3416 HD/DVR box. One of the results is the "correct" gray scale, and the other is a bit too high. The error is much less than what I'm seeing with the PS3 -- perhaps about 2 steps of Video Source Adjust > Brightness. But again, cycling inputs away from the Comcast and back returns gray scale to the "correct" result.


Since the error is so small it is easy to miss it. It shows up as low brightness "dither" pixels in pillar box bars when viewing SD channels.


The difference between the "correct" and "wrong" gray scale results from the PS3 is much more dramatic -- pretty easy to detect in a dark room with any content you are familiar with.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15819915
> 
> 
> So I've been playing with my new toy for a while now. I'm going out for the day, so sadly I won't be able to do any more until tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 1) Firmware (not ARC) 2.00 - is that the right one, or should it be upgraded?
> 
> 
> 2) When I had my previous issues with background noise, I had been using a downloaded install of ARC and just copied the license files. I uninstalled/reinstalled and set the AMPs to -6db, but I've subsequently noticed something that looks like a mic calibration file? Is that what it is, and if I didn't have that before, could that have caused the backgound noise issues? I can't test again until tomorrow, so I figured I'd ask here for now.
> 
> 
> I'm asking because the speaker levels ended up being +4db +8db, so it's odd that I needed to set everything to -6db, only to have it upped by ~6db.
> 
> 
> 3) I love the video processing. Overall it's adding I think more contrast, as I'm seeing a lot more depth, especially in 1080i/720p content. SD content of course looks dramatically improved without looking fake. Even 24p content looks slightly but noticably improved.
> 
> 
> However - I think the brightness or gamma is a little low? Overall my experience is that things seems a little dark. I'm torn though, because I think that's part of the increased depth/contrast I'm seeing.
> 
> 
> Is this normal? Should I/Can I just tweak the VP brightness/gamma settings, or do I need to mess with my display (which has been professionally calibrated, so I'd rather not do that).
> 
> 
> 4) I've got initial RS232 control working from my MSC-400, which is nice. At least power on/off, source select, volume, and mute are all working. I'll be working on other items shortly, but now it appears to just be tedium rather than figuring anything out. Only thing I noticed here was I had to set the D2v to use flow control, as the default was none.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'm enjoying things a lot, and I look forward to improving my room acoustics (through new panels and adjusted speaker placement), as well as continuing to tweak the heck out of this thing!
> 
> 
> If anyone has feedback on the above, I thank you in advance.
> 
> -Mark



1) There are no "official" new firmware releases for the D2v or AVM 50v yet. New units have shipped with both V2.00 and V2.02. However there is "test" firmware available from Anthem tech support that fixes quite a few bugs. Currently they are up to V2.02c. After some more testing, this will likely become official as "V2.03", but I'm not sure how much longer that will take.


2) Did you go through my recommended step to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and also the internal volume control built into your subwoofer before doing your ARC Measurements? The 6dB change in the amp was likely necessary to get the sweep tone volumes to a point where ARC could take good Measurements. But ARC may still need to apply significant speaker volume trims to balance out the speakers after that. Do you have any speakers where ARC applied a large negative volume trim as well?


3) D2v and AVM 50v firmware older than the latest "test" version, V2.02c(13feb), has a bug in what it uses for gray scale with YCbCr input. The output side of things is fine. If the internally generated test patterns in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust > Patterns) look correct with the current level settings in your professionally calibrated display, then there's no need to change the settings in your display. Instead, you can apply adjustments to Brightness / Contrast on the input side -- Video Source Adjust > Picture for each source.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

With Firmware V2.02c I can no longer make the "Get" function work in Live Video Settings Editor. It flashes the USB/Serial adapter light for the correct amount of time for getting the Video Source Adjust settings from the D2v, but then just stops with the "please wait" box displayed forever.


The Settings Backup utility had no problem working with V2.02c, and of course ARC also worked.


Reported to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/15817652
> 
> 
> Rob did you ever check to see if you were doing analog direct with the 59AVi? I might be able to buy that analog direct could be a little more appealing then the D2 DACs but if you are doing the A/D and using the D2s DAC I can't imagine why it would be drastically different.
> 
> 
> For the record I did quite a bit of comparison with my Pioneer 79AVi and in the long run did not hear enough difference between analog and digital to bother messing with analog after that. With ARC it is really a no brainer I stick to digital all the way. I also played around with my standalone DAC into the D2. I felt the D2 held its own quite well. Now analog out of my Oppo was a different story as I thought it was worse and I'm still not convinced its digital DSD to PCM is as good as the PS3 for SACD. Long story short I'm now all digital in to the D2.
> 
> 
> I have to take that back a bit as I still use the standalone DAC with my two channel tube set rig upstairs. But to be honest with ARC I'm even doing most of my two channel listening with the D2 down in the HT.



Well, I checked last night and it was NOT analog direct. It was doing the DSP to the analog signal from the Elite. So, I am more confused than ever as to why there would be such a noticeable difference.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2v takes a little longer than the D2 in its power up sequence to get to the point where it will accept an input selection change command. I'll need to adjust the power-on delay time in my Harmony 880 remote's configuration.


Other than that, the Harmony 880 setup I was using with the D2 seems to be working just fine with the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/15820996
> 
> 
> Well, I checked last night and it was NOT analog direct. It was doing the DSP to the analog signal from the Elite. So, I am more confused than ever as to why there would be such a noticeable difference.



hmm... Are you level matched? Using the same BM? (Movie vs Music) Can't think of a good reason for that since you are effectively using the D2 DACs. I guess something screwy could be going on with the HDMI interface. Is this just standard redbook CD? I guess you could throw S/PDIF in the mix and see how it fairs against HDMI.


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15818361
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone knows if Anthem has corrected the hum/hiss issue that some of the AVM50 owners are experiencing yet? I still have it with mine....been several months now and the last info I got from Anthem on it was that they were waiting to ship the new versions before working on this issue. That was 2 to 3 months ago now I think.
> 
> 
> For those who are not familiar with the issue, see the following link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FglzO4F303k
> 
> 
> It occurs when I switch sources or start up a source. Blu-ray is the worst where it take so long to load.



I e mailed Nick last week regarding my hum/hiss issues. He wanted me to send him a copy of my settings using the Backup Utility, which I did. Waiting on a response.


----------



## zr123

Hey Bob,


Our AVM 50v arrived @ the dealer earlier this week, we likely won't be picking it up for another week or so. Our dealer talked to the rep about firmware and claims that it's come with the "latest version". In any event, if we wanted to update the firmware for it, where do we download it from? I can't seem to find it on the Anthem website.


Thanks!


----------



## shawnboston

Thanks Bob, much appreciated!










Quick question for the group: Have any of you had trouble getting the video settings OSD (the one that you press display or 7 for a few seconds to trigger) to come up? The front panel of my unit says that it is on but the display does not show it - the main setup OSD works fine though.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15821201
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> Our AVM 50v arrived @ the dealer earlier this week, we likely won't be picking it up for another week or so. Our dealer talked to the rep about firmware and claims that it's come with the "latest version". In any event, if we wanted to update the firmware for it, where do we download it from? I can't seem to find it on the Anthem website.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Not Bob (obviously), but if you email tech support they will send you a link to a password protected site to download it if you need it (the FW).


----------



## Lordoftherings

Hi Bob,


Could you please refer me to what the ARC Room EQ is based on and the characteristics

of it's implementation.

I will like to know how many filters and calculations are performed by the system.


Thanks in advance,


Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15821201
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> Our AVM 50v arrived @ the dealer earlier this week, we likely won't be picking it up for another week or so. Our dealer talked to the rep about firmware and claims that it's come with the "latest version". In any event, if we wanted to update the firmware for it, where do we download it from? I can't seem to find it on the Anthem website.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



As FilmMixer says, Anthem doesn't have a public download page for the D2v or AVM 50v up yet.


Currently the V2.02 firmware and the V2.02c(13feb) firmware are both up on the password protected download page maintained by Anthem tech support. I think the V2.02 version could be considered "official" in that if you need to re-install that's the one they'd likely give you since that's what's being factory installed for new shipments. The V2.02c version is a "test" version. Given the numerous bug fixes they are making, I suspect this will turn into a V2.03 "official" firmware release fairly soon, but it hasn't happened yet. The change notes for the V2.xx firmware stream were posted here yesterday.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
I'm getting a lot more subsonic bass with ARC V2.0.1.1 and firmware V2.0.2c on my D2v than I got with ARC V2.0.1 and firmware V1.33 on my D2. I'm not sure whether the difference is coming from the newer ARC or not.


When playing Blu-Rays, I haven't spotted any problems in the seamless transition of bass from the sub to the mains so I don't think it is a problem in the setting of speaker volume levels (the announced change that came in this new ARC), but it is still early days.


So far, that extra gut shaking bass is sounding great with Blu-Rays but perhaps bass is sounding a little over the top with Comcast TV when viewing DD5.1 programs. I'm reminded of the short lived ARC V1.2.4 where bass levels were mistakenly set too high.


--------------------------------------------------


Also, did I read correctly that with V2.02c you are *NOT* seeing a gray scale problem now on your PS3 when transitioning from the XMB (always RGB output) to the first video on a disc (YCbCr output)?


What do you have set in the PS3 for RGB output -- Full or Limited? I'm using Full, paired with Extended RGB in the Video Source Adjust > Color Space setting. I need to test whether switching that to Limited / Studio RGB still yields the same transition to YCbCr problem when the disc starts playing.


Also how do you have the video output set on the PS3 for Blu-Ray/SD-DVD playback? Are you using Auto for format and Auto for 1080p/24? Or have you explicitly chosen YCbCr or perhaps disabled 1080p/24?


But I'm *ALSO* seeing this bogus gray scale result when the disc transitions between 1080i/59.94 YCbCr 4:4:4 (the FBI warning screen for example) to 1080p/23.976 YCbCr 4:4:4 (the real movie content). Once the movie actually starts playing, and thus is in 1080p/23.976 for good, if I pause it and cycle inputs on the D2v, then the gray scale becomes -- and stays -- correct for the balance of the movie.

--Bob
Ps3 is set to RGB Limited, Format is YPb/Cb/Cr, super white ON, 1080p ON

Video Out is Extended RGB , Config 1

Video Source Adjust is, 1080p/24, Colour Space AUTO and Data YCbCr 4:4:4


Now for ARC 2.01.1. WOW. The LFE is really subsonic. Most of my test scenes showed a marked difference. In particular, Iron Man has never felt as concusive as in the Theatre at least not until now. It was amazingly similar now to that experience. The bass was not exaggerated. Music so far sounds very good too. What did surprise me was my room gain went from a consistent value over every version of arc from 3.9 to 1.4 for movies and music down to 0.8. My front cutoff went from 140 to 115. The curves that were produced were the most accurate yet. Even my center channel which has had a problem null at the gain range is now almost flat to the target. Transformers also sounded more like the theater. One more reason to watch at home







My results are below.

John

 

ARC Measurement Files 2.01.1(a).doc 76k . file

 

ARC Measurement Files 2.01.1(b).doc 75.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/15821687
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Could you please refer me to what the ARC Room EQ is based on and the characteristics
> 
> of it's implementation.
> 
> I will like to know how many filters and calculations are performed by the system.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Bob



Anthem has not released any details of how ARC is implemented except to say that it results from work done in Canada's National Research Council dating back to the 90's. Some of the people responsible for this research now work for Anthem. From the HomeTheaterMag web site:



> Quote:
> ARC's development started with research done in Canada's famed National Research Council in the '90s. Now the processing power required for such an elaborate system doesn't require a supercomputer the size of a refrigerator. In the D2's case, it requires just two big DSP boards. The system allows more cut than boost (the latter limited to 6 decibels). In default mode, the EQ is active only to 5 kilohertz, which allows a natural rolloff in high frequencies at the listening positions. (The Advanced mode lets the user run EQ all the way up to 20 kHz.)



Anthem's own product data sheet on ARC gives a few details about refinements they are using in the implementation of the digital filters, but no details about how those filters actually implement the algorithm:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...D2_ARC_PDS.pdf 


NOTE: ARC for the D2v and AVM 50v applies to sources all the way up to 192KHz input sampling rate.


The one thing we know for sure is that ARC is not a typical "parametric filter" EQ system. So the "how many filters" question that is so relevant to typical parametric EQ systems is not relevant to ARC.


Since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time during Measurement, it is also evident that ARC does not attempt to adjust phase differences between speakers -- which is why the user still has to do the Polarity/Phase setup for the subwoofer. And ARC doesn't attempt to automate the speaker distance settings either. Those too must be set manually.


Whatever it is doing under the hood, the results are simply magnificent.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm listening to "Pirates of the Caribbean 3: At World's End" at the moment on Comcast "On Demand". This is a reduced bit-rate (384Kbps) DD5.1 track.


I'm not hearing any of the harshness of bass imbalance that I reported earlier. This would suggest that the DD5.1 decoding in the D2v (with V2.02c firmware) is working correctly, and that what I was hearing from Comcast last night was the typical Comcast screwups on their various broadcast channels.


I *AM* hearing more bass than I was getting with my prior combo (D2 with V1.33 firmware and ARC V2.0.1). At a guess, I think this is part of the change that came in ARC V2.0.1.1, but it is hard to be sure sort of going back to ARC V2.0.1 which would mean another Measurement pass.


Someone who already has an ARC V2.0.1 setup on the D2v could confirm this when they change to ARC V2.0.1.1 presuming they Measure separately for each of them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15821798
> 
> 
> Ps3 is set to RGB Limited, Format is YPb/Cb/Cr, super white ON, 1080p ON
> 
> Video Out is Extended RGB , Config 1
> 
> Video Source Adjust is, 1080p/24, Colour Space AUTO and Data YCbCr 4:4:4
> 
> 
> Now for ARC 2.01.1. WOW. The LFE is really subsonic. Most of my test scenes showed a marked difference. In particular, Iron Man has never felt as concusive as in the Theatre at least not until now. It was amazingly similar now to that experience. The bass was not exaggerated. Music so far sounds very good too. What did surprise me was my room gain went from a consistent value over every version of arc from 3.9 to 1.4 for movies and music down to 0.8. My front cutoff went from 140 to 115. The curves that were produced were the most accurate yet. Even my center channel which has had a problem null at the gain range is now almost flat to the target. Transformers also sounded more like the theater. One more reason to watch at home
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My results are below.
> 
> John



From what's happening in high frequency in your Surrounds, it looks like you are running ARC up to 10KHz, correct? Have you tried going higher?


I'm curious as to why you are using Extended RGB output to your display. Typically you would use Studio RGB for home theater use -- switching to Extended RGB only if you have to due to the display's design being set for computer use.


I'll have to try your PS3 RGB and output format settings to see it if helps the YCbCr handshake come up with the correct gray scale. But I'm not optimistic. I think this is an HDMI handshake bug in the D2v.


ETA: I think your testing makes it pretty clear that the extra subsonic bass is due to "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 and not due to the D2v or to "test" firmware V2.02c(13feb). Cool! Among other things, this means all ARC users, even on the original hardware, will get the advantage of this once the the release becomes "official".

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

It was done at 20000 Hz. Inspite of the small dip in the surrounds at the highest freq., my curves look amazing. the centre has had that drop all along and now it is gone. Am playing around with gains now but can't detect much of a change. This version so far has made my sub work even harder but what a punch. Clearly these movies have more sound depth to them than we sometimes realize.

John

*I'm using Studio, NOT Extended, sorry for the misinfo*.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15822000
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> It was done at 20000 Hz. Inspite of the small dip in the surrounds at the highest freq., my curves look amazing. the centre has had that drop all along and now it is gone. Am playing around with gains now but can't detect much of a change. This version so far has made my sub work even harder but what a punch. Clearly these movies have more sound depth to them than we sometimes realize.
> 
> John



This can actually be a problem some times.


I know of a case where a Velodyne sub was going into thermal shutdown due to 15Hz rumble in the content on a particular SACD that the producers didn't even realize they had included in the track. When your sound system's bass is better than the reference system being used by the studio to vet their releases, it can be tricky!










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15822000
> 
> *I'm using Studio, NOT Extended, sorry for the misinfo*.



Got it. That makes more sense.


But just to confirm, in your PS3 you have set explicit YCbCr output (instead of Auto), SuperWhite ON, and RGB Limited, right?


Check something for me when you get a chance. Bring up the XMB user interface on your PS3 and go to Video Source Adjust > Info in the D2v. Is the D2v showing it is receiving RGB at that point or YCbCr?


I presume you are receiving YCbCr from the PS3 during actual movie content, but the XMB normally gets sent out as RGB.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15822015
> 
> 
> This can actually be a problem some times.
> 
> 
> I know of a case where a Velodyne sub was going into thermal shutdown due to 15Hz rumble in the content on a particular SACD that the producers didn't even realize they had included in the track. When your sound system's bass is better than the reference system being used by the studio to vet their releases, it can be tricky!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



No shutdown yet. Try the scene in AVP requiem when the Predator ship crashes into the forest in chpt. 1 or 2. As it come to a complete stop listen or should I say feel the LFE









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15822037
> 
> 
> Got it. That makes more sense.
> 
> 
> But just to confirm, in your PS3 you have set explicit YCbCr output (instead of Auto), SuperWhite ON, and RGB Limited, right?
> 
> 
> Check something for me when you get a chance. Bring up the XMB user interface on your PS3 and go to Video Source Adjust > Info in the D2v. Is the D2v showing it is receiving RGB at that point or YCbCr?
> 
> 
> I presume you are receiving YCbCr from the PS3 during actual movie content, but the XMB normally gets sent out as RGB.
> 
> --Bob



Yes to all above. I do get RGB when the XMB comes up. I don't notice any gamma diff when this happens.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15822053
> 
> 
> No shutdown yet. Try the scene in AVP requiem when the Predator ship crashes into the forest in chpt. 1 or 2. As it come to a complete stop listen or should I say feel the LFE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



The "Skadoosh" explosion near the end of "Kung Fu Panda" Blu-Ray is also a good one for revealing subsonic bass extension.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15822070
> 
> 
> Yes to all above. I do get RGB when the XMB comes up. I don't notice any gamma diff when this happens.
> 
> John



In my testing, RGB (either Studio RGB or Extended RGB -- what Sony terms "limited" and "full" respectively) has always produced the "correct" gray scale with the D2v, even before V2.02c(13feb) firmware.


It's a real puzzle to me why you are not now seeing the "wrong" YCbCr gray scale in addition to the "correct" YCbCr gray scale. The "wrong" result is easily repeatable in my setup.

--Bob


----------



## DOBE

Hi guys. I apologize for the long post, but I have so many questions.










I last posted in this thread about 2 yrs ago. Based on extremely well informed objective information -- especially from Bob Pariseau -- I decided not to purchase the D2 or AVM50. I had a 50" Fujitsu plasma; Pioneer Elite 49 txi receiver; Sony NS90V player; HD300 D* receiver; M&K 150P (powered) speakers and SVS PC Ultra cylinder sub. The system was only used for HT (movies and HD Sat TV)


I'm ready to replace my 7 year old Pioneer Elite receiver and the new D2v or AVM50v looks very inviting. I now have a new 65" Panasonic plasma (850 series); a Pioneer Elite 79 avi; Panasonic 60/80 Bluray (replacements for the 35/55 -- available in April); VIP 722 DISH DVR; SVS sub; M&Ks. The front 3 M&Ks are self powered. The 2 sides and 2 backs are powered by 4 Outlaw mono amps. There's no reason to buy another receiver since I don't need any more amps; however is it worth it to buy a D2v or AVM50v, since I still only use the system for HT?


1.) I have, at least, 600 DVDs. If I use the 79 avi and pass 480i over HDMI to the D2/AVM50 and use the 1:1 pixel mapping on the Panny, it seems like I would see and hear significant improvement versus the 49 txi. Do you agree?


2.) I believe The Panasonic Bluray will pass unprocessed video to the D2 and will also decode multi-channel signals on-board. With bluray, is it best to send unprocessed video to the D2 and decoded audio? There are some 7.1 DTS MA discs, so I'm guessing those must be sent bitstream to get 7 discreet channels out of the D2v/AVM50v? Again, I should see and hear a significant improvement versus connecting the video directly to the Panny via HDMI and the audio through analog 7.1 analog inputs on the Pioneer 49 txi. Do you agree?


3.) The problem is that 75 % of my viewing is over satellite. In my case DISH. I switched from D* because their DVR was very unreliable and Comcast in my area is terrible. Now I'm reading -- on DBSTALK.COM in the DISH discussion -- that:



> Quote:
> For HD, DirecTV has the better stats:
> 
> Resolution:
> 
> DirecTV: 1920x1080 (for 1080i channels)
> 
> Dish: 1440x1080 (for 1080i channels)
> 
> Both pass 1280x720p channels without altering resolution.



If I'm receiving 1440 x 1080i resolution from DISH, then I'm receiving a degraded/damaged signal. I'm assuming the DVR de-interlaces and upconverts it to 1920 x 1080i before it sends the signal out to the display or pre/pro. The DVR doesn't have an NR mode. Will the D2 be able to do anything to improve my satellite video quality? To my eyes it's not that bad. The PQ is just a bit soft. I see some compression artifacts but not much other video noise. The Panny seems to do a good job of handling the video, but wouldn't the D2v do a much better job?


4.) Given my situation would you buy the D2v or the AVM50v?


Thanks again. I know I have a lot of questions -- but either unit is a major investment!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/15822161
> 
> 
> Hi guys. I apologize for the long post, but I have so many questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I last posted in this thread about 2 yrs ago. Based on extremely well informed objective information -- especially from Bob Pariseau -- I decided not to purchase the D2 or AVM50. I had a 50" Fujitsu plasma; Pioneer Elite 49 txi receiver; Sony NS90V player; HD300 D* receiver; M&K 150P (powered) speakers and SVS PC Ultra cylinder sub. The system was only used for HT (movies and HD Sat TV)
> 
> 
> I'm ready to replace my 7 year old Pioneer Elite receiver and the new D2v or AVM50v looks very inviting. I now have a new 65" Panasonic plasma (850 series); a Pioneer Elite 79 avi; Panasonic 60/80 Bluray (replacements for the 35/55 -- available in April); VIP 722 DISH DVR; SVS sub; M&Ks. The front 3 M&Ks are self powered. The 2 sides and 2 backs are powered by 4 Outlaw mono amps. There's no reason to buy another receiver since I don't need any more amps; however is it worth it to buy a D2v or AVM50v, since I still only use the system for HT?
> 
> 
> 1.) I have, at least, 600 DVDs. If I use the 79 avi and pass 480i over HDMI to the D2/AVM50 and use the 1:1 pixel mapping on the Panny, it seems like I would see and hear significant improvement versus the 49 txi. Do you agree?
> 
> 
> 2.) I believe The Panasonic Bluray will pass unprocessed video to the D2 and will also decode multi-channel signals on-board. With bluray, is it best to send unprocessed video to the D2 and decoded audio? There are some 7.1 DTS MA discs, so I'm guessing those must be sent bitstream to get 7 discreet channels out of the D2v/AVM50v? Again, I should see and hear a significant improvement versus connecting the video directly to the Panny via HDMI and the audio through analog 7.1 analog inputs on the Pioneer 49 txi. Do you agree?
> 
> 
> 3.) The problem is that 75 % of my viewing is over satellite. In my case DISH. I switched from D* because their DVR was very unreliable and Comcast in my area is terrible. Now I'm reading -- on DBSTALK.COM in the DISH discussion -- that:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I'm receiving 1440 x 1080i resolution from DISH, then I'm receiving a degraded/damaged signal. I'm assuming the DVR de-interlaces and upconverts it to 1920 x 1080i before it sends the signal out to the display or pre/pro. The DVR doesn't have an NR mode. Will the D2 be able to do anything to improve my satellite video quality? To my eyes it's not that bad. The PQ is just a bit soft. I see some compression artifacts but not much other video noise. The Panny seems to do a good job of handling the video, but wouldn't the D2v do a much better job?
> 
> 
> 4.) Given my situation would you buy the D2v or the AVM50v?
> 
> 
> Thanks again. I know I have a lot of questions -- but either unit is a major investment!



The short answer is that either a D2v or AVM 50v will likely be a major quality upgrade for you. On the audio side, these units now come bundled with Anthem Room Correction (ARC) which is absolutely amazing. If you can afford the price difference I think you will hear audio improvement from the D2v. The video solution is identical in the two of them.


As to your questions:


1) I haven't used a 49txi, but I think you will be delighted with what either Anthem does with HDMI 480i video input.


2) I continue to recommend that folks send unprocessed video and audio decoded to HDMI LPCM to the new Anthems. However the new Anthems also provide decoding of bitstreamed TrueHD and DTS-HD MA so you can experiment and make your own decision.


3) The bit-starving and HD-Lite(tm) resolutions that various services are foisting on their customers do not change the video resolution output by the box. I.e., you'll never see a 1440x1080i resolution output from any such box. That is just what is transmitted to the box. You'll have no choice but to let the box scale that to 1920x1080i for output.


4) As stated above, if you can afford the price difference I think you will hear superior audio from the D2v (video is identical), but the AVM 50v is no slouch by any means. ARC is bundled with both of them.

--Bob


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15822323
> 
> 
> 3) The bit-starving and HD-Lite(tm) resolutions that various services are foisting on their customers do not change the video resolution output by the box. I.e., you'll never see a 1440x1080i resolution output from any such box. That is just what is transmitted to the box. You'll have no choice but to let the box scale that to 1920x1080i for output. --Bob



Bob: Thanks for your answers. Will there be any improvement with the PQ from the DVR if I use the D2? That's my main concern. I realize the DVR will do it's video processing whether I want it to or not. I'm guessing it does a poor job of scaling the the "HD-Lite" to 1920x1080i.


But, will the D2v be able to do anything to improve the satellite PQ? Thanks again.


----------



## jayray

Bob,

One thing about ARC 2.01.1 that I noticed, is the measured values that I now see. I used to have wild swings, in particular my fronts and centre. Now the measurements are almost the same as the Targets. I haven't done anything to my room that would explain this. I haven't gained in volume







It makes me think something is going on in how measurements are being done as well as some algorithms to improve subsonic freq.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/15822398
> 
> 
> Bob: Thanks for your answers. Will there be any improvement with the PQ from the DVR if I use the D2? That's my main concern. I realize the DVR will do it's video processing whether I want it to or not. I'm guessing it does a poor job of scaling the the "HD-Lite" to 1920x1080i.
> 
> 
> But, will the D2v be able to do anything to improve the satellite PQ? Thanks again.



Sure. You will be able to perfectly match the gray scale ramp and colors to exactly what your display likes best. This is independent of resolution or scaling.


You will be able to apply noise reduction or detail enhancement if you wish.


And you will be able to custom crop programs for example when a 16:9 movie is broadcast on a 4:3 channel (or even embedded in a 4:3 frame on an HD channel as sometimes happens) so that you don't have to live with black bars around all 4 sides of the image.


If Anthem's current developments work out you will soon be able to extract the original 24 frames per second of movie content that gets raised to 30 fps by the telecine process for broadcast (introducing "judder"). If your display is able to accept 1080p/24 from the Anthem and do the right thing with it, that means you can get smoother movie viewing even from satellite (480i/60 or 1080i/60 to the Anthem).


And that doesn't even begin to cover the improvements you will get in audio.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15822825
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> One thing about ARC 2.01.1 that I noticed, is the measured values that I now see. I used to have wild swings, in particular my fronts and centre. Now the measurements are almost the same as the Targets. I haven't done anything to my room that would explain this. I haven't gained in volume
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It makes me think something is going on in how measurements are being done as well as some algorithms to improve subsonic freq.



Maybe your speakers are learning....










--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15821801
> 
> 
> Anthem has not released any details of how ARC is implemented except to say that it results from work done in Canada's National Research Council dating back to the 90's. Some of the people responsible for this research now work for Anthem. From the HomeTheaterMag web site:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anthem's own product data sheet on ARC gives a few details about refinements they are using in the implementation of the digital filters, but no details about how those filters actually implement the algorithm:
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...D2_ARC_PDS.pdf
> 
> 
> NOTE: ARC for the D2v and AVM 50v applies to sources all the way up to 192KHz input sampling rate.
> 
> 
> The one thing we know for sure is that ARC is not a typical "parametric filter" EQ system. So the "how many filters" question that is so relevant to typical parametric EQ systems is not relevant to ARC.
> 
> 
> Since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time during Measurement, it is also evident that ARC does not attempt to adjust phase differences between speakers -- which is why the user still has to do the Polarity/Phase setup for the subwoofer. And ARC doesn't attempt to automate the speaker distance settings either. Those too must be set manually.
> 
> 
> Whatever it is doing under the hood, the results are simply magnificent.
> 
> --Bob




Thank you very much for taking the time. I am very appreciative.


Wouah! Sounds impressive. Thanks for the reference. You're the man Bob!










Bob


----------



## budeone

Here are my screen shots of ARC. I hope I did this correct.


----------



## budeone

Just watching a movie and I am 101.8 db at +7.5 on the anthem. It sounds great and my head hurts. My other half thinks I am nuts. The last thing ARC told me was to make sure EQ was on. It was not on my Blu-ray for some reason. It is now.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15820915
> 
> 
> 1) There are no "official" new firmware releases for the D2v or AVM 50v yet. New units have shipped with both V2.00 and V2.02. However there is "test" firmware available from Anthem tech support that fixes quite a few bugs. Currently they are up to V2.02c. After some more testing, this will likely become official as "V2.03", but I'm not sure how much longer that will take.



Thanks - I'll download tomorrow and try it out, just because I like to do these things...



> Quote:
> 2) Did you go through my recommended step to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and also the internal volume control built into your subwoofer before doing your ARC Measurements? The 6dB change in the amp was likely necessary to get the sweep tone volumes to a point where ARC could take good Measurements. But ARC may still need to apply significant speaker volume trims to balance out the speakers after that. Do you have any speakers where ARC applied a large negative volume trim as well?



My Sub was at -8db, all the rest of my speakers were at +4 to +8db. Is your recommended steps in the first post? I'm not at home until tomorrow, and I'm accessing from a mobile device so it's a little hard to check right now.



> Quote:
> 3) D2v and AVM 50v firmware older than the latest "test" version, V2.02c(13feb), has a bug in what it uses for gray scale with YCbCr input. The output side of things is fine. If the internally generated test patterns in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust > Patterns) look correct with the current level settings in your professionally calibrated display, then there's no need to change the settings in your display. Instead, you can apply adjustments to Brightness / Contrast on the input side -- Video Source Adjust > Picture for each source.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks - I haven't done any of that yet, and I didn't know it was there! I really need to walk through everything, but I just got it set up and working. Are there guides here to help in that process, or should I just go through the manual? (I'm more of a poke around and mess with it kind of guy, rather than a RTM kind of guy, but I always eventually get to the manual...).


Thanks again for all the great support you provide here!


----------



## AbMagFab

How/where do you download the test firmware? If it shouldn't be posted here, can someone PM me with the URL/ftp/password?


Thanks!

-Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/15823871
> 
> 
> Here are my screen shots of ARC. I hope I did this correct.



These look fine to start. As we've discussed here many times, you will probably find that raising the Max EQ Frequency target value will work well for you -- telling ARC it is OK to apply correction higher than the default 5KHz. You can experiment with this without having to re-Measure.


Right now you've really only got one problem, and that is the dip at 3KHz for the Left Surround speaker that is deeper than ARC will correct. The residual error is only a couple dB, but it is over a wide enough range of frequencies that you should probably look at fixing it.


This is an odd one. At that high frequency it it not a room response issue, and yet it is too low to be a typical speaker pointing problem. And you've got reasonable speaker output above and below that so it doesn't look like a faulty speaker driver either. I'm going to guess that you've got a cloth or other obstruction blocking the output of that speaker. If you can figure out how to get just a few dB better output in the Measured curve there, ARC will be able to correct the rest.


Your subwoofer is showing good response down to 30Hz, which is rather common for home theater subs. There are subs that will go deeper. The range below about 25Hz is the subsonics -- the bass you feel more than hear. So if you are in the market for new speakers, you might want to start with a new sub.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15824295
> 
> 
> My Sub was at -8db, all the rest of my speakers were at +4 to +8db. Is your recommended steps in the first post? I'm not at home until tomorrow, and I'm accessing from a mobile device so it's a little hard to check right now.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - I haven't done any of that yet, and I didn't know it was there! I really need to walk through everything, but I just got it set up and working. Are there guides here to help in that process, or should I just go through the manual? (I'm more of a poke around and mess with it kind of guy, rather than a RTM kind of guy, but I always eventually get to the manual...).
> 
> 
> Thanks again for all the great support you provide here!



IMPORTANT NOTE: There are a couple bugs in the Setup > Level Calibration menu in the firmware you have that will get in the way of doing what I describe below. To get access to the V2.02c firmware you will need to give Anthem tech support a call on Tuesday (Canada is closed this Monday). There's no rush to fix this speaker level stuff since ARC found a workable solution for you anyway.


You'll find a lot of useful info in the post links collected in the first post of this thread.


The "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post is the place to start for video setup tips.


There are rather a lot of ARC related links, but most of the posts are short. You'll find lots of tips for setup in them. It looks like what happened is that your sub's internal volume is set too high -- enough that ARC couldn't correct it just by lowering its volume trim setting. So ARC raised your other speakers so it could allow more output from the sub and still balance things out within the available trim range.


The way you fix this is the setup step that I was alluding to. Go into Setup > Level Calibration and zero everything out. Set test mode to Manual in the first line. Now adjust just the Test Volume line until you get an SPL reading near 75dB (audio will be coming from the LF speaker). Now go down to the subwoofer line (which is still set to 0dB) and leaving that line unchanged, use the volume control built into your subwoofer to get an SPL reading of 75dB from it as well. Ballpark settings are fine here -- ARC will do the fine adjustment.


Now do your ARC Measurements. ARC uses the Test Level line to set the volume of its sweep tones, and your adjustment of the sub's built in volume insures that it is reasonably close to what the main speakers will produce even before ARC needs to trim it up. ARC will set the correct speaker volume trims when you do your Upload.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15824311
> 
> 
> How/where do you download the test firmware? If it shouldn't be posted here, can someone PM me with the URL/ftp/password?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Mark



Mark, it's no big secret, but Anthem tech support is trying to keep some sort of tabs on who is using the "test" software -- at the very least to make sure you are aware that "test" software is not yet finished and may have unexpected problems -- possibly even requiring you to roll back to a previous version.


That's why I don't just give out the access info.


So you'll have to wait until you can get in touch with Anthem tech support on Tuesday (Canada is closed this Monday).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

JAYRAY,

I believe I have found the key factor that results in incorrect YCbCr gray scale from the PS3. The handshake gets screwed up if the PS3 is set to use "Full" for its RGB output. This represents a bug in the D2v as the D2 has no problem when the PS3 is set this way.


Sony uses RGB output from the PS3 for the XMB user interface and also for games. For reasons we probably don't need to go into, Sony has coded this stuff to use Extended RGB (what Sony calls RGB "Full"). The PS3 can be set to convert that to Studio RGB for output (what Sony calls RGB "Limited") but that compresses the gray scale into a fewer number of steps, altering the intended image quality.


Since the Anthems have the flexibility to accept either Studio or Extended RGB input, I've had my PS3 set to RGB "Full" output, and the Anthem set to expect Extended RGB whenever the video input data format is RGB.


It turns out that if I set the PS3 to use RGB "Limited" for its RGB output, and set the Anthem to expect Studio RGB for RGB formatted video the YCbCr gray scale produced from disc playback always results in the correct gray scale. I.e., I've duplicated the good result you've already achieved.


-----------------------------------------


To be sure this is really a bug, and not something broken in just my D2v, I need you to do an experiment for me to see if you can duplicate my failure mode.


So please do the following (temporarily of course):


1) In the PS3, go to Settings > Display Settings, and change RGB from "Limted" to "Full".


2) Next, in the D2v, go into Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space and click on Extended RGB. The check mark on Studio RGB will go away and Extended RGB will be checked. Auto YCbCr will also remain checked. Exit the Video Source Adjust menu. The XMB should still look normal -- i.e., correct gray scale -- because the PS3 and the D2v are now in agreement to use Extended RGB.


3) Now play a Blu-Ray. If I'm correct, when the video playback finally starts (YCbCr video now being used) you will see that the gray scale is out of whack -- way too bright. I think this will happen every single time, but it may be more like 9 times out of 10, so if you don't get this result on the first try, exit back to the XMB and try again with the Blu-Ray.


4) Presuming you get the expected "wrong" gray scale result, now pause the movie. Then switch the D2v to a different input and then back to the PS3. The gray scale for the paused movie should now be correct. This is something between a 50:50 and a 1 in 3 chance, so if it doesn't correct the first time you try it, cycle the D2v inputs again a few more times.


What I'm trying to confirm is that when you have the PS3 and the Anthem set to use Extended RGB (for the XMB for example), that the gray scale for YCbCr during disc playback will almost always be incorrect (way too bright) *AND* that cycling inputs, perhaps a few times, will "correct" this YCbCr gray scale.


Let me know what happens. Thanks!


[For others following this, there's no need to try this with the D2 or AVM 50. They definitely don't have this problem. If there are folks out there with a PS3 and an AVM 50v, this experiment would be useful to try on those.]

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Since Anthem haven't started to provide D2 to D2v upgrades in 220v for international shipping I would like to know if someone here (Bob maybe?) knows if they are planning to release a new firmware for the D2 soon? One that would, finally after almost 7 months, solve the HDMI handshake with HTPC's.

And BTW, since I am actually waiting for a green light for upgrade from my local distributor, can any D2v owner here share his experience on the matter (providing he is connecting an HTPC to the D2v!)?


Thank you


----------



## budeone

Thank you for the input Bob. The strange this is the sub is only a year old. Maybe I bought a bad one.


ps1000 paradigm 10 130 watt


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15824421
> 
> 
> Mark, it's no big secret, but Anthem tech support is trying to keep some sort of tabs on who is using the "test" software -- at the very least to make sure you are aware that "test" software is not yet finished and may have unexpected problems -- possibly even requiring you to roll back to a previous version.
> 
> 
> That's why I don't just give out the access info.
> 
> 
> So you'll have to wait until you can get in touch with Anthem tech support on Tuesday (Canada is closed this Monday).
> 
> --Bob



Gotcha, that makes sense.


That being said, I'm off today and tomorrow, and was planning to work all day on the D2v.

_Is there a chance anyone could e-mail me/PM me the newest firmware files?_ I **promise** to call Anthem on Tuesday to officially get access.


Since it appears the gray-scale issue is something that is very apparent in my setup, I'd like to try the new firmware to see if that alone resolves it, or if I need to further play with the VP settings.


Thanks in advance for anyone that can help!


----------



## zuesmaximus

I have attached pics of my familyroom, do you think I have a little problem with room acoustics?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15825989
> 
> 
> I have attached pics of my familyroom, do you think I have a little problem with room acoustics?



That's an impossible task!


----------



## zuesmaximus

AdMagFab,

That's what I thought, my avm50 is at the factory due to an issue when I tried to update new software. I had them install arc kit while its there. I was just wondering if it would help???


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15826002
> 
> 
> AdMagFab,
> 
> That's what I thought, my avm50 is at the factory due to an issue when I tried to update new software. I had them install arc kit while its there. I was just wondering if it would help???



ARC will always help, but you're going to have so many reflections and slapback, much of that can't be fixed with Room EQ. You really need acoustic treatments... and carpet... and drapes!


----------



## zuesmaximus

that's what I thought, I got to get on it. I've noticed the difference replaced my old Monitor Gold to home theater in the basement and they sounded reborn...

thanks for the input


----------



## jayray

Bob,

All your suspicions were confirmed. Everything went as you described. This deserves a cookie









John


----------



## shawnboston

Quick repost of a question from yesterday: Have any of you had trouble getting the video settings OSD (the one that you press display or 7 for a few seconds to trigger) to come up? The front panel of my unit says that it is on but the display does not show it - the main setup OSD works fine though.


I definitely have some tweaking to do because the images from both my PS3 and Comcast HD DVR are washed out (blacks don't look right, I think that the brightness and contrast need adjustment).


Also, are any of you using your PS3 as a network media player to stream digital music through your Anthem system? I am and I noticed that the AVM would not let me choose any sound modes (Anthem Logic Music, stereo, etc.). It only displays a 7.1 mix and nothing else is available. The somewhat odd thing is that even though this is displayed, it is only playing through the FL/FR speakers - no center, no surrounds . . . I find that a bit counter-intuitive but the sound is fine (I'm growing rather partial of the AL music setting and I'd like to use that). Interestingly, all of the standard processing options are available when I play a Blu Ray disc (have not tried with a game yet though).


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15826403
> 
> 
> Also, are any of you using your PS3 as a network media player to stream digital music through your Anthem system? I am and I noticed that the AVM would not let me choose any sound modes (Anthem Logic Music, stereo, etc.). It only displays a 7.1 mix and nothing else is available. The somewhat odd thing is that even though this is displayed, it is only playing through the FL/FR speakers - no center, no surrounds . . . I find that a bit counter-intuitive but the sound is fine (I'm growing rather partial of the AL music setting and I'd like to use that). Interestingly, all of the standard processing options are available when I play a Blu Ray disc (have not tried with a game yet though).



That means your PS3 is sendiing all 7 channels over LPCM, with only 2 that have sound. So the D2 thinks there are 7 channels and can't matrix. I thought this was a bug that was fixed with the PS3?


----------



## shawnboston

I kind of thought the same thing based on the posts I had read on the topic but it's definitely not working for me - your reply hit the nail on the head, I think that's exactly what is happening. I've run the audio and video set up in the PS3 a few times and I have the latest software. Maybe I need to tweak something else with my PS3 . . . I'll tinker with it this morning.


----------



## obie_fl

I gave up on the PS3 as an audio streamer quite some time ago. I don't recall them ever fixing the 7.1 wrapper issue but maybe I missed it. They also resample the signal to 48Khz. I really don't think this is a high priority for Sony.


----------



## jviggi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15826563
> 
> 
> I kind of thought the same thing based on the posts I had read on the topic but it's definitely not working for me - your reply hit the nail on the head, I think that's exactly what is happening. I've run the audio and video set up in the PS3 a few times and I have the latest software. Maybe I need to tweak something else with my PS3 . . . I'll tinker with it this morning.



shawnboston,

I had a similar problem. I ripped many CD's onto my PS3 only to find out they would only play in 2 channels. My D2 showed 5.1 audio input and 2 channel output. I had no access to the advanced processing modes. I did a little research and found out that the PS3 outputs all channels if you use HDMI. The problem is all channels are dead except for stereo so the D2 does not allow you the other options as it sees all of the channels, even though they are dead. It is a PS3 problem!

It is a pain in the neck but I installed a digital optical cable and now I switch the PS3 output to optical out when I listen to my CD's. I use the CD button on the D2 remote and have my preferences there except I changed the audio input to optical. It works fine.

jviggi


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/15825877
> 
> 
> Thank you for the input Bob. The strange this is the sub is only a year old. Maybe I bought a bad one.
> 
> 
> ps1000 paradigm 10 130 watt



It doesn't look like a broken sub. It looks like it is just not able to go that deep.


Check to see if there are any adjustable settings for its low frequency extension (subsonic filters being the most common). And keep in mind that specs aside, if the sub is not big enough for the cubic feet of air it has to pressurize in your listening room then it won't actually achieve its low frequency spec even though it is plenty loud at higher bass frequencies. Subs work by pressurizing the room and a sub has to huff a lot of air to do that at the lowest frequencies. A 13 inch or smaller sub, for example, is not likely to extend into the subsonics in a normal-size home theater listening room.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15826002
> 
> 
> AdMagFab,
> 
> That's what I thought, my avm50 is at the factory due to an issue when I tried to update new software. I had them install arc kit while its there. I was just wondering if it would help???



ARC will help a tremendous amount.


Keep in mind that even if ARC doesn't fix everything, the parts it DOES fix are all good. And the charts will show you what's left so you can concentrate on fixing that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15826075
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> All your suspicions were confirmed. Everything went as you described. This deserves a cookie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Woo Hoo! I got a cookie!










Thanks for that. I've alerted Anthem.


At a guess, even when the PS3 is doing the HDMI transition from YCbCr 1080i/60 (e.g. title "warning" screens) to YCbCr 1080p/23.976 (e.g. the movie) it goes into RGB briefly as part of that -- thus triggering the bug.


Now I don't see an obvious way for this to explain why I'm still getting two different YCbCr gray scale results from my Comcast HD/DVR, but with any luck it will just turn out that whatever fixes the PS3 connection will also fix the Comcast connection.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

I hoping it will









Not happy with the Revel's performance, escpecially the center channel...

Is there anywhere that I could download manual for the arc? I would to study up before it arrives.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15826403
> 
> 
> Quick repost of a question from yesterday: Have any of you had trouble getting the video settings OSD (the one that you press display or 7 for a few seconds to trigger) to come up? The front panel of my unit says that it is on but the display does not show it - the main setup OSD works fine though.
> 
> 
> I definitely have some tweaking to do because the images from both my PS3 and Comcast HD DVR are washed out (blacks don't look right, I think that the brightness and contrast need adjustment).
> 
> 
> Also, are any of you using your PS3 as a network media player to stream digital music through your Anthem system? I am and I noticed that the AVM would not let me choose any sound modes (Anthem Logic Music, stereo, etc.). It only displays a 7.1 mix and nothing else is available. The somewhat odd thing is that even though this is displayed, it is only playing through the FL/FR speakers - no center, no surrounds . . . I find that a bit counter-intuitive but the sound is fine (I'm growing rather partial of the AL music setting and I'd like to use that). Interestingly, all of the standard processing options are available when I play a Blu Ray disc (have not tried with a game yet though).



The PS3 issue is a known problem with streaming audio through the PS3. It sends stereo content out as multi-channel but with only the LF/RF channels actually having any content -- i.e., it is still stereo but embedded in more channels.


The Anthem has no way to know the other channels aren't real, and so it provides no audio modes since they are used for raising 2 channel input or 5.1 channel input (not 7.1 channel input) to a larger number of speakers for output.


Originally, the PS3 had this problem for all sorts of stereo content (e.g. CDs as well), but recent firmware releases have fixed it for some of those. If you are not already on the V2.60 PS3 firmware you should upgrade and see if your problem goes away. Various workarounds have been discussed in the PS3 FAQ sticky thread -- mostly involving turning off the high sampling rate (176KHz and 192KHz) output options for multi-channel but leaving them on for stereo. Apparently the PS3 sees that and switches to sending out stereo content as high sampling rate stereo. But I haven't actually played with that stuff myself.


---------------------------------------------


Your problem with the on-screen Video Source Adjust menu in your AVM 50v sounds like a bug. Contact Anthem tech support and they will likely suggest you install the V2.02c(13feb) "test" firmware.


D2v and AVM 50v firmware versions older than the V2.02c(13feb) "test" firmware have a known bug in YCbCr gray scale input processing. You can adjust for that temporarily using the Video Source Adjust > Picture controls, or switch to RGB input, or install the "test" firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/15827083
> 
> 
> I hoping it will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not happy with the Revel's performance, escpecially the center channel...
> 
> Is there anywhere that I could download manual for the arc? I would to study up before it arrives.



Download the ARC V2.0.1 software from Anthem's public download page. That unzips to a folder and inside that folder you will find an updated copy (PDF file) of the user manual for your Anthem.


Section 3.15 in the user Manual is about ARC.


In addition, read through the collection of ARC related post links collected in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jviggi* /forum/post/15826711
> 
> 
> shawnboston,
> 
> I had a similar problem. I ripped many CD's onto my PS3 only to find out they would only play in 2 channels. My D2 showed 5.1 audio input and 2 channel output. I had no access to the advanced processing modes. I did a little research and found out that the PS3 outputs all channels if you use HDMI. The problem is all channels are dead except for stereo so the D2 does not allow you the other options as it sees all of the channels, even though they are dead. It is a PS3 problem!
> 
> It is a pain in the neck but I installed a digital optical cable and now I switch the PS3 output to optical out when I listen to my CD's. I use the CD button on the D2 remote and have my preferences there except I changed the audio input to optical. It works fine.
> 
> jviggi



I believe your problem specific to CD playback has been fixed in the latest PS3 firmware (V2.60). Try HDMI with that firmware and see.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

Thanks Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15825729
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Since Anthem haven't started to provide D2 to D2v upgrades in 220v for international shipping I would like to know if someone here (Bob maybe?) knows if they are planning to release a new firmware for the D2 soon? One that would, finally after almost 7 months, solve the HDMI handshake with HTPC's.
> 
> And BTW, since I am actually waiting for a green light for upgrade from my local distributor, can any D2v owner here share his experience on the matter (providing he is connecting an HTPC to the D2v!)?
> 
> 
> Thank you



Anthem is currently working on a V1.34 firmware release for the D2 and AVM 50. I also know that Anthem is still working on the new HDMI code for the D2 and AVM 50 that was released for testing for a short while last summer.


I don't know if that new HDMI code will make it into the V1.34 firmware.


I don't have an HTPC setup so I can't test with my D2v. But keep in mind that most of the HTPC HDMI handshake problems that have been reported appear to be flakey HDMI implementation in the HTPC, so it is not clear that even new code from Anthem can fix this. Many posters have reported that the Gefen DVI Detective product placed in the HDMI signal path helps a lot by forcing the HTPC to see only a limited set of HDMI configuration information and shielding the Anthem from what the HTPC is doing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I listened to "Hairspray" Blu-Ray last night and for the first time I found a Blu-Ray where "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 did not produce satisfactory results.


The bass was overemphasized and the Center channel sounded muddy.


I believe the problem with bass is in the steered bass from the main speakers rather than the LFE channel.


It may be significant that this is a 7.1 track (DTS-HD MA 7.1 decoded to HDMI LPCM in the PS3).


In any event, what I got from my older D2 with ARC V2.0.1 sounded much better.


ETA: Reported to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I'll try that later.

John


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15827189
> 
> 
> Anthem is currently working on a V1.34 firmware release for the D2 and AVM 50. I also know that Anthem is still working on the new HDMI code for the D2 and AVM 50 that was released for testing for a short while last summer.
> 
> 
> I don't know if that new HDMI code will make it into the V1.34 firmware.
> 
> 
> I don't have an HTPC setup so I can't test with my D2v. But keep in mind that most of the HTPC HDMI handshake problems that have been reported appear to be flakey HDMI implementation in the HTPC, so it is not clear that even new code from Anthem can fix this. Many posters have reported that the Gefen DVI Detective product placed in the HDMI signal path helps a lot by forcing the HTPC to see only a limited set of HDMI configuration information and shielding the Anthem from what the HTPC is doing.
> 
> --Bob



I have a HTPC, and for what what it's worth I haven't had any problems after letting it settle in with the D2v. I've been playing SD DVD's and BD's, as well as HD MPEG's and AVCHD's with no problems at all.


In fact, I was all worried about 24p passthrough, but the VP in the D2v is so darn good, that the upconverting of 24p to 60p is seamless and I can't detect any judder (and I'm generally very sensitive to incorrect 24p implementation stutter, or 24p to non-24 multiple stutter).


----------



## shawnboston




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15827119
> 
> 
> The PS3 issue is a known problem with streaming audio through the PS3. It sends stereo content out as multi-channel but with only the LF/RF channels actually having any content -- i.e., it is still stereo but embedded in more channels.
> 
> 
> The Anthem has no way to know the other channels aren't real, and so it provides no audio modes since they are used for raising 2 channel input or 5.1 channel input (not 7.1 channel input) to a larger number of speakers for output.
> 
> 
> Originally, the PS3 had this problem for all sorts of stereo content (e.g. CDs as well), but recent firmware releases have fixed it for some of those. If you are not already on the V2.60 PS3 firmware you should upgrade and see if your problem goes away. Various workarounds have been discussed in the PS3 FAQ sticky thread -- mostly involving turning off the high sampling rate (176KHz and 192KHz) output options for multi-channel but leaving them on for stereo. Apparently the PS3 sees that and switches to sending out stereo content as high sampling rate stereo. But I haven't actually played with that stuff myself.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Your problem with the on-screen Video Source Adjust menu in your AVM 50v sounds like a bug. Contact Anthem tech support and they will likely suggest you install the V2.02c(13feb) "test" firmware.
> 
> 
> D2v and AVM 50v firmware versions older than the V2.02c(13feb) "test" firmware have a known bug in YCbCr gray scale input processing. You can adjust for that temporarily using the Video Source Adjust > Picture controls, or switch to RGB input, or install the "test" firmware.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob (and everyone else),


As it turns out, I can't access any of the audio signal processing modes for any audio source (streaming audio, blu ray, etc.) coming out of my PS3. I am going to try a couple of things (dig optical cable, sampling rates) and I will let you know how things turn out. I have the latest PS3 software (2.60) so I'm eliminating that as a solution for now.


----------



## Warpdrv

Quick question....


Is the ARC contained in a separate box or is it packaged all together as 1 in the D2...?


TIA.....


Patrick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15827622
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob (and everyone else),
> 
> 
> As it turns out, I can't access any of the audio signal processing modes for any audio source (streaming audio, blu ray, etc.) coming out of my PS3. I am going to try a couple of things (dig optical cable, sampling rates) and I will let you know how things turn out. I have the latest PS3 software (2.60) so I'm eliminating that as a solution for now.



Understand that the audio modes you can enable depend upon:


1) The number of speakers you have configured,


2) The type of audio input currently in use, and


3) Whether THX audio post processing is turned on.


For example if you are listening to a 5.1 channel input and only have a 5.1 speaker configuration, then there are no audio modes you can get to (other than THX post processing). The audio modes provide different ways to raise the input to a larger number of speakers for output, so if you only have 5.1 speakers there's no work for them to do when you play a 5.1 channel input.


If you had 7.1 speakers you would find various audio modes available to raise the 5.1 channel input to 7.1 speaker output.


And if you play 2 channel input you will find even more audio modes available for raising that to 5.1 or 7.1 speaker output.


At the other extreme, modes like Mono Academy are only available if THX post processing is turned off. In general, if you think an audio surround mode should be available but it isn't being offered when you cycle through the available modes, try checking whether you have THX turned on.


The charts in the manual go a long way towards explaining this, but you need the extra bit of info that the surround modes are only available when the number of input channels is less than the number of speakers for output since otherwise there is no work for a surround mode to do.


To see what audio modes are available at any moment in time, press Mode once on the remote and then use the Up and Down arrows to cycle through what's available. You can use the Setup > Mode Presets menu for each source device to set the "default" audio mode for each type of audio input coming in from that source.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15827685
> 
> 
> Quick question....
> 
> 
> Is the ARC contained in a separate box or is it packaged all together as 1 in the D2...?
> 
> 
> TIA.....
> 
> 
> Patrick



The D2v and AVM 50v have ARC packaged inside the main box with the unit itself. The pieces of the ARC kit are packaged in their own box that is placed above the unit inside the main box. There is also an "accessories" box in there with things like the power cord and remote(s). I'm pretty sure the pack out for the D2 has been done this way as well for recent shipments of the D2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Jayray,

On the "Hairspray" Blu-Ray issue, be aware that I have a 5.1 speaker configuration.


When I play a 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM input with the V2.02c(13feb) firmware in my D2v, the Setup displays indicate that a non-existent Center Rear speaker is active.


So there is definitely something screwed up in 7.1 channel input played into 5.1 speakers. But I don't know if that is related to the out of balance bass and muddy center that I was hearing when playing this disc.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15827685
> 
> 
> Quick question....
> 
> 
> Is the ARC contained in a separate box or is it packaged all together as 1 in the D2...?
> 
> 
> TIA.....
> 
> 
> Patrick



Good to see you over here, Warp...


The D2v is amazing, and with the Sigs (and P2/P5), it's really incredible.


ARC gives you so much infomation to fix room acoustic problems, and then it's able to correct for the rest, that the end resulting sound is just what these Sigs deserve.


And yes, the ARC comes with a new D2v. It includes a mic, long USB cable, long serial cable, and a mic stand (although Bob's recommendation to get the better boom-mic stand is a good idea).


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15824398
> 
> 
> IMPORTANT NOTE: There are a couple bugs in the Setup > Level Calibration menu in the firmware you have that will get in the way of doing what I describe below. To get access to the V2.02c firmware you will need to give Anthem tech support a call on Tuesday (Canada is closed this Monday). There's no rush to fix this speaker level stuff since ARC found a workable solution for you anyway.
> 
> 
> You'll find a lot of useful info in the post links collected in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> The "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post is the place to start for video setup tips.
> 
> 
> There are rather a lot of ARC related links, but most of the posts are short. You'll find lots of tips for setup in them. It looks like what happened is that your sub's internal volume is set too high -- enough that ARC couldn't correct it just by lowering its volume trim setting. So ARC raised your other speakers so it could allow more output from the sub and still balance things out within the available trim range.
> 
> 
> The way you fix this is the setup step that I was alluding to. Go into Setup > Level Calibration and zero everything out. Set test mode to Manual in the first line. Now adjust just the Test Volume line until you get an SPL reading near 75dB (audio will be coming from the LF speaker). Now go down to the subwoofer line (which is still set to 0dB) and leaving that line unchanged, use the volume control built into your subwoofer to get an SPL reading of 75dB from it as well. Ballpark settings are fine here -- ARC will do the fine adjustment.
> 
> 
> Now do your ARC Measurements. ARC uses the Test Level line to set the volume of its sweep tones, and your adjustment of the sub's built in volume insures that it is reasonably close to what the main speakers will produce even before ARC needs to trim it up. ARC will set the correct speaker volume trims when you do your Upload.
> 
> --Bob



1) I can confirm that, at least on my setup, the beta firmware does fix the black-level issues I was having. (However NUMBER3 this past Friday was rediculously dark, in a court room that was mostly shadows; a great episode to see if you're getting good contrast, but very annoying otherwise.)


2) I fixed the gain on my sub - thanks. Noobie mistake on my part.


3) ARC just rocks. So I've been moving my speakers around, and improved a bunch. Just moving my sub further out from the wall a few inches has added substantially to the 20-30hz output! And I've been moving my LF around, and while there's still a big 200hz dip, it's now to the point where ARC can correct it.


I'm going to remeasure everything, and then I have to put in those corner traps I've been putting off for months. I'm betting that will improve the 200hz issue even more.


(And I also need to redo the doors to my HT - thanks ARC! They are double doors, and the right one opens, left one semi-fixed. But it looks like if I pull my sub out to in the way of the right door, I'll get even better below-30hz response... so now I need to reconfigure the doors to the left one can open with the right one semi-fixed!)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More on the "Hairspray" Blu-Ray issue with D2v, V2.02c(13feb) "test" firmware, and V2.0.1.1 "test" ARC, a DTS-HD MA 7.1 track played as HDMI LPCM 7.1 from the PS3 into my 5.1 speaker configuration:


(That's a lot of detail, but it is best to be precise when reporting stuff like this.)


I just did an experiment to see if the Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ setting was functioning in this case. There is definitely a change between Room EQ ON and OFF.


With Room EQ ON the LF/RF/LS/RS speakers sound properly corrected. But the bass is definitely overemphasized and I *THINK* what's going on is that correction is not being applied to the Center speaker.


The boominess in bass is in the upper bass or low mid-range frequencies so it may be a problem specific to steered bass as opposed to the LFE. But the sections I was playing likely don't have a lot of LFE so there may be a problem in LFE as well.


As stated earlier, the Select display shows a non-existent Center Rear speaker is also active.


A good example is the theme song that starts the Corny Collins show (about a minute or so into chapter 2).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15828100
> 
> 
> 1) I can confirm that, at least on my setup, the beta firmware does fix the black-level issues I was having. (However NUMBER3 this past Friday was rediculously dark, in a court room that was mostly shadows; a great episode to see if you're getting good contrast, but very annoying otherwise.)
> 
> 
> 2) I fixed the gain on my sub - thanks. Noobie mistake on my part.
> 
> 
> 3) ARC just rocks. So I've been moving my speakers around, and improved a bunch. Just moving my sub further out from the wall a few inches has added substantially to the 20-30hz output! And I've been moving my LF around, and while there's still a big 200hz dip, it's now to the point where ARC can correct it.
> 
> 
> I'm going to remeasure everything, and then I have to put in those corner traps I've been putting off for months. I'm betting that will improve the 200hz issue even more.
> 
> 
> (And I also need to redo the doors to my HT - thanks ARC! They are double doors, and the right one opens, left one semi-fixed. But it looks like if I pull my sub out to in the way of the right door, I'll get even better below-30hz response... so now I need to reconfigure the doors to the left one can open with the right one semi-fixed!)



ARC: An essential tool for the sophisticated room redecorator!










--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab

Wow, just to confirm corner acoustics would do something, I tossed a couple of big 3x3 soft throw/floor pillows we have into the corners, just smushed in the middle, all bent and not really doing what corner traps should do.


Well, it reduced my 200hz issue to nominal, and now that dip looks no worse than any other dip/spike, of just a few db!


Guess I'm doing a couple of corner traps tomorrow...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15828100
> 
> 
> 1) I can confirm that, at least on my setup, the beta firmware does fix the black-level issues I was having. (However NUMBER3 this past Friday was rediculously dark, in a court room that was mostly shadows; a great episode to see if you're getting good contrast, but very annoying otherwise.)



You will probably discover that this is just a setup error on the video input side for this source.


While viewing this source, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" key) and scroll right to the Info panel. Look at what you are getting for video input. It should be YCbCr 4:4:4. If it is RGB, look for the setting in your set top box to change that.


For the Motorola boxes typically used by cable companies, this is in a special menu. Use the set top box remote to power it off. Then while still powered off, press the Menu button to bring up the special menu in the Motorola box. Then go to HDMI settings. After adjusting, press Menu again to save those settings and then Power to power up the set top box again.


Next, bring up Video Source Adjust again and go to Picture > Input Color Space. The Auto YCbCr and Studio RGB lines should both be checked. If your set top box only offers RGB output then switching between Studio RGB and Extended RGB in here may be the fix you need.


Once all that is right, the adjustments in Video Source Adjust > Picture can be used to fine tune for the video input coming from that set top box.


Be sure to read the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the links in the first post of this thread for the basics of video setup. Since your display is professionally calibrated, the internal test patterns from the Anthem (Video Source Adjust > Patterns) should already look correct without you having to tweak anything on the display. If not, then you need to check what you are using in the output side of the Anthem's settings, i.e., in Setup > Video Output.


Keep in mind that you can define 4 separate Video Output configurations. The Setup > Source Setup definition for each source device identifies which Video Output configuration should be used when playing that source. Make sure you have the correct one identified for each source -- in particular for any source that is showing screwy video results.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15827833
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> On the "Hairspray" Blu-Ray issue, be aware that I have a 5.1 speaker configuration.
> 
> 
> When I play a 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM input with the V2.02c(13feb) firmware in my D2v, the Setup displays indicate that a non-existent Center Rear speaker is active.
> 
> 
> So there is definitely something screwed up in 7.1 channel input played into 5.1 speakers. But I don't know if that is related to the out of balance bass and muddy center that I was hearing when playing this disc.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I don't have Hairspray but will try with another 7.1 bluray. I do have two back channels so perhaps there won't be a direct comparison but I will try anyway.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15828313
> 
> 
> Wow, just to confirm corner acoustics would do something, I tossed a couple of big 3x3 soft throw/floor pillows we have into the corners, just smushed in the middle, all bent and not really doing what corner traps should do.
> 
> 
> Well, it reduced my 200hz issue to nominal, and now that dip looks no worse than any other dip/spike, of just a few db!
> 
> 
> Guess I'm doing a couple of corner traps tomorrow...



Another reason why home redecorators just LOVE throw pillows!











I'm glad this stuff is working out so well for you. When you get the results you finally decide to stick with, be sure to post your new charts -- or even before and after charts to show what can be done with ARC and some room set up adjustments!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15828320
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I don't have Hairspray but will try with another 7.1 bluray. I do have two back channels so perhaps there won't be a direct comparison but I will try anyway.
> 
> John



If you don't find a problem, do me a favor and temporarily set Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie > Rears to NONE and try again. I'm pretty sure you can use the same ARC setup you already have loaded. Thanks!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More info on the "Hairspray" Blu-Ray 7.1 channel input problem:


With the D2v, the Automatic HDMI setup in the PS3 enables 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM output. But you can go into the Manual setup and clear the check boxes for the 7.1 output options (and then accept that change with the right arrow).


I did that and it appears to completely fix the problem I was hearing in the Center speaker.


In addition, the bass no longer sounds boomy. There is still more bass from "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 than I'm used to from ARC V2.0.1, but it sounds more like proper balance across the high bass to low mid-range transition so it is probably correct.


At a guess, I think this will turn out to be a bug in the D2v's V2.02c(13feb) "test" firmware rather than in the V2.0.1.1 "test" ARC software.


In any event, for others using the PS3, if you don't have a 7.1 speaker configuration, consider going into Settings > Sound Settings in the PS3, selecting HDMI and then the Manual option, and clearing the check boxes for each of the several 7.1 channel audio output options at the bottom of the list. Then click Right Arrow to accept those changes and then "X" to save the changes.


It is best to do this with audio muted on the D2v to make sure you don't hear distorted audio when the change happens (the XMB itself also uses 7.1 channel output if that's enabled). After making the change, switch the D2v to a different input and back to the PS3 and everything should be fine.


Set this way, the PS3 will do the down mix of 7.1 tracks to 5.1 channel output and the D2v will see no more than 5.1 channel input from the PS3.


It is likely that folks with 7.1 speaker setups don't need to do anything here, but perhaps we'll learn more after Jayray gives it a try.


All of this has been reported to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus









my Anthem D2v is on its way!!!!


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/15825877
> 
> 
> Thank you for the input Bob. The strange this is the sub is only a year old. Maybe I bought a bad one.
> 
> 
> ps1000 paradigm 10 130 watt



From this review of the the system that contains the PS-1000 sub, it looks as if the Anthem's ARC is remarkably accurate; so you didn't get a bad one, it's just that the sub wasn't designed to put out any meaningful sound pressure below 30Hz.


See the top of page 3 of the review. HERE


----------



## Big Tex

Can the cross over on the mains and sub be adjusted when running in ARC (Room Eq) mode? If so how?


What's the latest stable version of ARC and Anthem AVM 50 software? I'm running 1.33 for the AVM50 and the first version of ARC (I believe 1.21).


I'm not sure if anyone remembers but I'm the one who was having all the issues with the surronds and the sub. I took Bob's recommendation and upgraded the sub to (2) SVS PS-13's and it made a HUGE difference.


As for the high's still rolling off of the surrounds at 3k, we brought in some other sound equipment and it see's the surrounds operating up to 12k. I'm now wondering if the ARC software freaks out with Dipoles that are flush mounted. I'd like to try a new version of ARC to see if it changes the measurements.


As for my desire to mess with the crossover; ARC is crossing my main's and sub at 40hz. I'd like to get some of the mid sub (40 to 60hz) on to the sub. Does anyone have any suggestions? While my mains test down to 40hz, they don't have the punch the sub does. Right now my sub only plays between 15 - 40 hz.


Thanks!


Big Tex


----------



## jayray

Ok just tried Golden Compass with 7.1. I have 7.1 setup and heard nothing but wonderful surround sound. I then turned off my back speakers. Select showed I was getting 7.1 coming in and a Rear Centre showed up in the output display. Sound was fine and no distortion from centre front and bass was fine and LFE was solid. So if you have a 7.1 setup do as Bob suggests and leave it alone, it works fine.

I did notice something else in the select display. Now it does'nt say

"24/192 Khz Digital Muted. The Digital Muted part of the display is gone and has been added to a large "COPY PROTECTED" DIGITAL MUTED message. I found this confusing when I first got my D2V and mentioned it to Nick. He agreed and I guess removed it from the beta firmware v.2.02c. Looks better this way.

John


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15827788
> 
> 
> The D2v and AVM 50v have ARC packaged inside the main box with the unit itself. The pieces of the ARC kit are packaged in their own box that is placed above the unit inside the main box. There is also an "accessories" box in there with things like the power cord and remote(s). I'm pretty sure the pack out for the D2 has been done this way as well for recent shipments of the D2.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob, I have studied the D2v and AVM50v from afar and have been stand offish considering the price, not that its out of line, more like possibly beyond my capabilities financially at this point. Still it draws my attention. I understand the accessories box, just don't have a room for a second support/outboard box for the Pre-Amp, glad to hear its an all in one unit. Appreciate the feedback...


Also wondering about remote programming... I have Philips Pronto 9600's and curious if there is configs that will work in conjunction with it for out of site RF usage



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15828043
> 
> 
> Good to see you over here, Warp...
> 
> 
> The D2v is amazing, and with the Sigs (and P2/P5), it's really incredible.
> 
> 
> ARC gives you so much infomation to fix room acoustic problems, and then it's able to correct for the rest, that the end resulting sound is just what these Sigs deserve.
> 
> 
> And yes, the ARC comes with a new D2v. It includes a mic, long USB cable, long serial cable, and a mic stand (although Bob's recommendation to get the better boom-mic stand is a good idea).



Hey buddy.... glad to see you settled into the D2v2, seems you are very happy with it so far. You finally caved in to the "Power of the Dark Side"







I mean that in the most loving way.


I have a new 7channel Wyred4Sound amp coming in this week - I'm doing research on Pre-Amps. I'm very glad to see that Anthem is implementing 7 channels now. Regardless whether its a standard or not, I believe it will make its way in that direction.


Seems the upgrades are never ending....


Good luck with the results with the D2... I'll keep an eye out here...


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15830387
> 
> 
> Can the cross over on the mains and sub be adjusted when running in ARC (Room Eq) mode? If so how?
> 
> 
> What's the latest stable version of ARC and Anthem AVM 50 software? I'm running 1.33 for the AVM50 and the first version of ARC (I believe 1.21).
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if anyone remembers but I'm the one who was having all the issues with the surronds and the sub. I took Bob's recommendation and upgraded the sub to (2) SVS PS-13's and it made a HUGE difference.
> 
> 
> As for the high's still rolling off of the surrounds at 3k, we brought in some other sound equipment and it see's the surrounds operating up to 12k. I'm now wondering if the ARC software freaks out with Dipoles that are flush mounted. I'd like to try a new version of ARC to see if it changes the measurements.
> 
> 
> As for my desire to mess with the crossover; ARC is crossing my main's and sub at 40hz. I'd like to get some of the mid sub (40 to 60hz) on to the sub. Does anyone have any suggestions? While my mains test down to 40hz, they don't have the punch the sub does. Right now my sub only plays between 15 - 40 hz.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Big Tex



Tex! How could we forget?!









Yes you can change the x-overs in the Targets window.

I can tell you from my own recent experience in upgrading from ARC 1.2 to 2.0.1, that it made a huge difference.

Casual listeners may not tell but then again no one in this thread should classified as a casual listener right?

The soundstage and image are rock solid, the soundfield is immersive and the subwoofers integration with my LCRs is killer.

Tight, deep and in-your-sternum punchy.

I have some of the same issues as AbMagFab and as soon as time allows I'm going to pull out the Roxul that's been sitting in my garage for 2 1/2 years and cut some bass trap triangles for my stage.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15830561
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob, I have studied the D2v and AVM50v from afar and have been stand offish considering the price, not that its out of line, more like possibly beyond my capabilities financially at this point. Still it draws my attention. I understand the accessories box, just don't have a room for a second support/outboard box for the Pre-Amp, glad to hear its an all in one unit. Appreciate the feedback...
> 
> 
> Also wondering about remote programming... I have Philips Pronto 9600's and curious if there is configs that will work in conjunction with it for out of site RF usage



Ah, I see I misunderstood your question. I thought you were asking about the physical packaging of the parts in the shipping carton. There was a point when ARC first came out where the ARC kit was shipped in a separate carton, but it's now shipped all in on carton with the Anthem unit.


But apparently you were actually asking whether ARC requires an extra box on your equipment rack. The answer is no, which I think is what you were hoping for.


The DSP processing power (hardware) needed by ARC during actual, normal, listening use is built into the Anthem. There is no separate box.


During ARC setup, you run an application on a Windows PC connected to the Anthem via serial cable. The ARC mic connects to a USB port on the PC. The Windows application takes the necessary measurements and calculates the solution. It then uploads those results into the Anthem. At which point you are done with the Windows PC, serial cable, and mic until you decide you want to redo your setup. They are not needed during normal listening.


-----------------------------------------------


I don't know how the Pronto stuff works for RF remote control. The typical RF solution for most RF capable, programmable remotes involves an RF receiver box you place somewhere near the Anthem and then either a mini-jack cable from it into one of the rear remote receiver sockets on the Anthem or an IR light emitter tab you attach to the front of the Anthem that puts out IR control signals in response to the RF commands being received.


There is a remote control forum here where you can get the Pronto specific details I'm sure. As far as getting a Pronto configuration for the D2v, you could check the RemoteCentral web site. Anthem tech support may also know of sources of pre-made Pronto config files from their contacts with various custom system installers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15830387
> 
> 
> Can the cross over on the mains and sub be adjusted when running in ARC (Room Eq) mode? If so how?
> 
> 
> What's the latest stable version of ARC and Anthem AVM 50 software? I'm running 1.33 for the AVM50 and the first version of ARC (I believe 1.21).
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if anyone remembers but I'm the one who was having all the issues with the surronds and the sub. I took Bob's recommendation and upgraded the sub to (2) SVS PS-13's and it made a HUGE difference.
> 
> 
> As for the high's still rolling off of the surrounds at 3k, we brought in some other sound equipment and it see's the surrounds operating up to 12k. I'm now wondering if the ARC software freaks out with Dipoles that are flush mounted. I'd like to try a new version of ARC to see if it changes the measurements.
> 
> 
> As for my desire to mess with the crossover; ARC is crossing my main's and sub at 40hz. I'd like to get some of the mid sub (40 to 60hz) on to the sub. Does anyone have any suggestions? While my mains test down to 40hz, they don't have the punch the sub does. Right now my sub only plays between 15 - 40 hz.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Big Tex



The current "official" version of ARC is V2.0.1 -- available from Anthem's public download page.


Pair that with firmware V1.33 in your AVM 50.


ARC V2.0.1 has improvements both at the lowest and highest frequencies, so it may help with your high frequency problem.


It may also eliminate the need to adjust your crossovers. The ARC version you are using now uses the same values for room correction "cutoffs" as it uses for bass management crossovers. The new ARC V2.0.1 has the ability to produce solutions that use different values for those, which can lead to better solutions.


If necessary, you can adjust the room correction "cutoffs" in the Targets window (run the ARC application in Advanced mode) and ARC will re-calculate the solution based on what you have chosen. However, I think you should try using the values that ARC V2.0.1 chooses for you to begin with.


Plan on doing a re-Measurement with the new ARC stuff.


There is a newer "test" version of ARC -- V2.0.1.1 -- in field testing now that seems to produce even better bass results.


------------------------------------------------


I recall your problem with high frequencies in the surrounds and I'll be surprised if just changing to the new ARC fixes that problem. If you are confident that the measurements you did with the other equipment are valid, and if the run you do with ARC V2.0.1 shows the same problem, then you should call Anthem tech support. I don't think your ARC mic can be faulty because the results you were getting for the front speakers look good. But if you email your ARC results file to Anthem the engineers can dig into it and extract much more information than shows up in the charts. That may help explain what's going on.


The ARC mic hears dipole speakers the same way your ears do. If the flush mounting is the culprit, your other test equipment should have seen that as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15830453
> 
> 
> Ok just tried Golden Compass with 7.1. I have 7.1 setup and heard nothing but wonderful surround sound. I then turned off my back speakers. Select showed I was getting 7.1 coming in and a Rear Centre showed up in the output display. Sound was fine and no distortion from centre front and bass was fine and LFE was solid. So if you have a 7.1 setup do as Bob suggests and leave it alone, it works fine.



OK, so here we go again!










I have "Golden Compass" Blu-Ray. I'll turn 7.1 output back on in the PS3 and see if I hear any problems. If I find anything particularly revealing, I'll post the time code. I suppose the problem could be limited to just the "Hairspray" track. I may not get to this until tomorrow.


ETA: I don't recall how much ARC correction your Center speaker needed. If I'm correct that the bug causes Center to get no correction (7.1 input to 5.1 speakers), the reason you are hearing no problem may be that your uncorrected Center is already pretty good.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15828319
> 
> 
> You will probably discover that this is just a setup error on the video input side for this source.
> 
> 
> While viewing this source, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" key) and scroll right to the Info panel. Look at what you are getting for video input. It should be YCbCr 4:4:4. If it is RGB, look for the setting in your set top box to change that.
> 
> 
> For the Motorola boxes typically used by cable companies, this is in a special menu. Use the set top box remote to power it off. Then while still powered off, press the Menu button to bring up the special menu in the Motorola box. Then go to HDMI settings. After adjusting, press Menu again to save those settings and then Power to power up the set top box again.
> 
> 
> Next, bring up Video Source Adjust again and go to Picture > Input Color Space. The Auto YCbCr and Studio RGB lines should both be checked. If your set top box only offers RGB output then switching between Studio RGB and Extended RGB in here may be the fix you need.
> 
> 
> Once all that is right, the adjustments in Video Source Adjust > Picture can be used to fine tune for the video input coming from that set top box.
> 
> 
> Be sure to read the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the links in the first post of this thread for the basics of video setup. Since your display is professionally calibrated, the internal test patterns from the Anthem (Video Source Adjust > Patterns) should already look correct without you having to tweak anything on the display. If not, then you need to check what you are using in the output side of the Anthem's settings, i.e., in Setup > Video Output.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that you can define 4 separate Video Output configurations. The Setup > Source Setup definition for each source device identifies which Video Output configuration should be used when playing that source. Make sure you have the correct one identified for each source -- in particular for any source that is showing screwy video results.
> 
> --Bob



Everything looks good now, with the new firmware, I was just posting about that specific episode of NUMBER3 on Friday. It looks the same on all my TV's (in terms of the crazy dark shadows). It looked way darker before the firmware upgrade.


Another test I used is the "you are experiencing a car accident" scene on the "I, Robot" BD. Good overall test scene.


And my favorite test scene is the "Ode to Joy" at the end of "Immortal Beloved" BD. Great video, lots of dark contrasty scenes, and just amazing sound. This is one of my go-to tests for speaker sound as well (along with the "Moonlight Sonata" scene), and it sounds soooo much better with ARC than on my previous setup.


I'm using a Tivo S3. The input is 444, and the Input Color Space is as you described. Also, all the built-in test patterns look perfect on my display, so I think it's all good. (I wish I had checked before the firmware upgrade, as that would have been a more objective way of showing an improvement.)


Overall, just amazing. I can't wait to make a couple of corner traps tomorrow and measure again!


----------



## BJB23

I'm now the proud owner of a D2v.* Picked it up yesterday and have spent most of the day setting it up.* It came with firmware V2.02 and ARC V2.0.1.Thanks to everyone for all the valuable info (especially Bob P.), which has been very helpful in the setup process.I've attached charts from my first ARC attempt using a Max EQ frequency target of 10KHz, any feedback would be appreciated.* So far I'm very pleased with the results with the exception of the sub, because I now have much less bass versus pre ARC.* ARC has set my sub level to -8.5 which I'm guessing is the reason.* Does this sound right?* Do I need to remeasure?* My sub is a Paradigm DSP3400.Also, the uploaded crossover value for the sub was only 60Hz, whereas the the target window in ARC shows 80Hz.* I believe that Bob had reported a similar issue with the new test version of ARC.* I went ahead and changed the sub crossover to 80Hz to match the ARC target window.* Was this the right thing to do?* Anybody have some suggestions for my sub issues?* With the exception of the sub, the rest of my speakers sound pretty nice using ARC.Thanks.-Brad


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BJB23* /forum/post/15831148
> 
> 
> I'm now the proud owner of a D2v.* Picked it up yesterday and have spent most of the day setting it up.* It came with firmware V2.02 and ARC V2.0.1.Thanks to everyone for all the valuable info (especially Bob P.), which has been very helpful in the setup process.I've attached charts from my first ARC attempt using a Max EQ frequency target of 10KHz, any feedback would be appreciated.* So far I'm very pleased with the results with the exception of the sub, because I now have much less bass versus pre ARC.* ARC has set my sub level to -8.5 which I'm guessing is the reason.* Does this sound right?* Do I need to remeasure?* My sub is a Paradigm DSP3400.Also, the uploaded crossover value for the sub was only 60Hz, whereas the the target window in ARC shows 80Hz.* I believe that Bob had reported a similar issue with the new test version of ARC.* I went ahead and changed the sub crossover to 80Hz to match the ARC target window.* Was this the right thing to do?* Anybody have some suggestions for my sub issues?* With the exception of the sub, the rest of my speakers sound pretty nice using ARC.Thanks.-Brad



Welcome to the cool kids thread!


First of all, go set your sub crossover back to the 60Hz that ARC Uploaded.


The new version of ARC that you are using can have different values for the room correction "cutoffs" (shown in the Targets window) and the bass management crossovers (shown in Setup > Speaker Configuration after the ARC Upload). This is normal and indicates ARC is using this extra flexibility to come up with a better solution.


And it likely has nothing to do with your perception of weak bass.


The results for your sub look good down to just below 30Hz which is not unusual for a home theater sub. This is the frequency where it drops down below what I've been calling the "basic volume level" of your setup -- the flat part of the Target curve to the right of the Room Gain hump near the crossovers -- about 80dB in your setup.


There are subs that can go deeper into the subsonics. And you may get additional deep bass extension from your current sub by checking for whether it has subsonic filtering of some sort turned on, or by repositioning it a few inches to couple more strongly with your room. Try closer to a solid wall or corner to pick up some Boundary Gain at the lowest frequencies.


[Also be aware that the "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 that's currently in field testing seems to have an even better bass solution that improves the lowest bass frequencies for subs that really can go that deep. It will probably be released "officially" after some more testing -- most likely as ARC V2.0.2.]


However in your case I suspect you've just gotten used to what your uncorrected system sounded like. You have some pretty significant peaks around 30-40Hz in LF/RF and even in the sub itself (compare the red Measured curves to the black, dashed Target curves). Your sub was about 5dB above Target, and even comparing to the "flat" line of the basic volume level -- about 80dB in your setup -- your RF was a good 10dB hot near 35Hz, and your LF almost as bad. For comparison, 6dB is the same as doubling the volume. Depending on how you had your previous crossovers set up, you might not have heard much of the LF/RF down there, but the sub error would definitely be in there. These kinds of errors can give the false impression of solid bass, when in fact it is just wrong. ARC has corrected all that.


--------------------------------------


The volume level trim ARC Uploaded for you sub simply indicates that you have the internal volume control in the sub turned up too high. Read back a page or so and you'll see I gave an outline of how to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and the internal volume control in your sub to get everything into the right ballpark prior to doing ARC Measurements.


[NOTE: There are a couple bugs in the Setup > Level Calibration menu in the V2.02 firmware in your D2v that will get in the way of doing this easily. You can call Anthem tech support on Tuesday (Canada is closed this Monday) for access to the "test" V2.02c firmware, or just take a guess about how much to lower your sub's volume control for the moment.]


This is also explained in detail in the ARC related post links collected in the first post of this thread.


After setting that up, and perhaps repositioning your sub a few inches as I suggested, go ahead an do a new Measurement pass with ARC.


-----------------------------------------


I'm glad you tried experimenting with raising Max EQ Frequency to 10KHz. The results look good. In fact your Measured curves are clean enough that I think you are a candidate for raising that even more -- perhaps 15KHz or even all the way up to 20KHz. You don't need to re-Measure to play with this. Just try a few different results curves looking for how far up you can go with that -- backing off if the lower frequency results start showing more errors.

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex

Thanks Milt and Bob!


Bob, you're right...it sounds illogical but none the less I want to try. While the mains do show up as performing well in the highs, they also don't have as big an impact on where the microphone is located. As I move the mic further away from each surround, it appears I loose MHz on the highs. Since the mains are directional and always face the mic head on, there doesn't appear to be an issue. The surrounds are flush within the wall and as I move the mic away, the results go to po po. The testing equipment we used allowed us to measure once below the speaker so we could confirm that the tweeter (highs) at least worked.


Quite honestly, I doubt the newer version will make that big a difference but I thought I would try. Who knows?


You guys rock...always there to answer my question. I have another one.


I now have two subs in different corners in the room. I tried running ARC with both subs operating at the same time but it didn't seem to work well. So I went back in and told the Anthem I had one sub and ran ARC. Once ARC finished, I then turned the 2nd sub back on in the AVM and turned the phase on the 2nd sub to 180. The subs are in exact opposite corners (i.e. they face each other- had no choice). So ARC has the main (tested) sub (in front of the couch) at phase 0 and I manually put the other sub (behind the couch) at phase 180. It sounds great. I feel like I had to work around ARC.


Is that the wrong thing to do? In ARC 2.0 should I tell the Anthem I have 2 subs and will ARC figure out they're in two separate locations and determine how to phase them in together or should I do what I did this time and run ARC with one sub and manually phase the other one in?


Additionally, I didn't quite understand where I would need to go to change the crossover? What’s the target’s page; the page in advanced mode? That’s in the ARC software and not on the AVM…right? Please explain how to do this. I assumed I needed to mess with the crossovers in the AVM…guess not….


Thanks EVERYONE for ALL the help! I have tomorrow off so I'll run ARC 2.0 and share the results. I'm dying the see if it makes a difference.


Oh...I just thought of this. In an effort to get more bass (before new subs) I removed the foam port covers on my B&W mains to get them a little lower. It made a 10 Hz difference. Should I put the foam port cover back in the speakers which in theory will create a higher fall off on the highs which should tell the sub to get more bass in the 40 to 50 Hz range or is it in my best interest to keep more lows on the mains? What's the sweet spot for a sub; what Hz range? What would you studs do; foam ports or no foam ports? Please see the graphs below to compare the mains and subs (before and after)


Bob...great recommendation on SVS...they rock and they were cheap. I almost bought the JL113 but the SVS was too good a deal.


Thanks for ALL the help!!!!


PS. If you have any other comments on the new charts (v.1.21) please let me know. I put in new subs, changed the ports on the mains and ported the center channel. I was trying to make it better. Surrounds still suck by ARC standards...


----------



## Big Tex

This is in continuation of above....


Just checked out the targets page. According to my targets I used in Advanced mode, it had a target of 120 for the sub but after calibration ARC clearly doesn't send anything above 50 to the sub. Does that mean I need to change the target on the mains higher to force more to the sub? The target on the mains is 40. This is assuming 2.0 has the same issues at 1.21 which according to Bob probably doesn't. Just trying to learn.


In ARC 2.0 is it best to target max EQ freq to 15,000 or 20,000?


Thanks!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15831789
> 
> 
> Thanks Milt and Bob!
> 
> 
> Bob, you're right...it sounds illogical but none the less I want to try. While the mains do show up as performing well in the highs, they also don't have as big an impact on where the microphone is located. As I move the mic further away from each surround, it appears I loose MHz on the highs. Since the mains are directional and always face the mic head on, there doesn't appear to be an issue. The surrounds are flush within the wall and as I move the mic away, the results go to po po. The testing equipment we used allowed us to measure once below the speaker so we could confirm that the tweeter (highs) at least worked.
> 
> 
> Quite honestly, I doubt the newer version will make that big a difference but I thought I would try. Who knows?
> 
> 
> You guys rock...always there to answer my question. I have another one.
> 
> 
> I now have two subs in different corners in the room. I tried running ARC with both subs operating at the same time but it didn't seem to work well. So I went back in and told the Anthem I had one sub and ran ARC. Once ARC finished, I then turned the 2nd sub back on in the AVM and turned the phase on the 2nd sub to 180. The subs are in exact opposite corners (i.e. they face each other- had no choice). So ARC has the main (tested) sub (in front of the couch) at phase 0 and I manually put the other sub (behind the couch) at phase 180. It sounds great. I feel like I had to work around ARC.
> 
> 
> Is that the wrong thing to do? In ARC 2.0 should I tell the Anthem I have 2 subs and will ARC figure out they're in two separate locations and determine how to phase them in together or should I do what I did this time and run ARC with one sub and manually phase the other one in?
> 
> 
> Additionally, I didn't quite understand where I would need to go to change the crossover? What’s the target’s page; the page in advanced mode? That’s in the ARC software and not on the AVM…right? Please explain how to do this. I assumed I needed to mess with the crossovers in the AVM…guess not….
> 
> 
> Thanks EVERYONE for ALL the help! I have tomorrow off so I'll run ARC 2.0 and share the results. I'm dying the see if it makes a difference.
> 
> 
> Oh...I just thought of this. In an effort to get more bass (before new subs) I removed the foam port covers on my B&W mains to get them a little lower. It made a 10 Hz difference. Should I put the foam port cover back in the speakers which in theory will create a higher fall off on the highs which should tell the sub to get more bass in the 40 to 50 Hz range or is it in my best interest to keep more lows on the mains? What's the sweet spot for a sub; what Hz range? What would you studs do; foam ports or no foam ports? Please see the graphs below to compare the mains and subs (before and after)
> 
> 
> Bob...great recommendation on SVS...they rock and they were cheap. I almost bought the JL113 but the SVS was too good a deal.
> 
> 
> Thanks for ALL the help!!!!
> 
> 
> PS. If you have any other comments on the new charts (v.1.21) please let me know. I put in new subs, changed the ports on the mains and ported the center channel. I was trying to make it better. Surrounds still suck by ARC standards...



Re-read the ARC related post links in the first post of this thread. You'll find in one or more of those posts detailed instructions for setting up with more than one sub.


Here's a short summary:


1) Go to Setup > Speaker Configuration and specify that you have only 1 sub. This is the necessary setting for use with ARC regardless of how many subs you have. Always specify "1 Sub" if you intend to use ARC.


2) Next set the sub volumes separately. Turn one sub off (at the sub itself -- unplug it if necessary). Go to Setup > Level Calibration. Zero out every line in there. Then set Noise Level to produce 75dB SPL (the LF speaker will be the one playing). Then scroll to either sub line and, leaving that line at 0dB, adjust the volume knob in the still powered sub to produce 73dB SPL (not 75dB). Turn off that sub and turn on the other sub (again, at the subs). Adjust it's volume knob to also produce 73dB. You are done. In combo they'll produce roughly 75dB and they are balance with respect to each other. "Roughly" is close enough.


3) Next set the phase for each sub separately. With only one sub powered at a time, adjust the Polarity/Phase for that sub to best match the LF speaker. Use the phase/polarity controls on the sub itself. You'll need the phase adjustment tones on a calibration DVD -- details are in those post links in the first post of this thread. When both subs are in phase with LF then they are also in phase with each other.


4) Now do ARC Measurement (with BOTH subs powered on). ARC will hear the two subs as a combo and will correct accordingly. This is the only proper way to use ARC with more than one sub.


5) After you do your ARC Upload you should find that 1 Sub is still specified. The speaker volume trim and crossover uploaded for the sub will be the correct values for your combo of two subs.


------------------------------------------------------------


Do I understand correctly that even your other test gear showed a significant loss of high frequencies from your surrounds whenever the mic wasn't directly underneath them? If so then this is an indication that these speakers, installed this way, aren't going to be able to do the job for you. As currently installed they are too directional at high frequencies -- i.e., what ARC is showing in its charts for them, sad to say, is correct.


-----------------------------------------------------------


The way you adjust crossovers (and you really shouldn't have to do this) is to open your saved file of Measurements in ARC Advanced mode and bring up the Targets window. You adjust the "cutoffs" shown there and ARC takes care of the crossovers based on that.


Do not fiddle with the crossovers in the Setup menu after ARC has Uploaded results. The crossovers it Uploads must be paired with the room correction results it also Uploads. Make changes, if you must, in the Targets window in ARC. Accept those changes (which dismisses the Targets window), re-Calculate and re-Upload.


ETA: Note that with the new ARC, V2.0.1, the Uploaded crossovers may end up being different from the "cutoffs" you set in the Targets window. This is normal and correct.


------------------------------------------------------------


The porting issue on your main speakers is tough to predict. I would start with the speaker maker's recommended "default" configuration and only change from that if you decide you don't like what ARC does when they are set that way.


I'm afraid I can't tell by your description what these two sets of charts are supposed to be showing, but the way you set up the two subs separately invalidates the bass in these charts anyway. So you'll need to try again following the two sub procedure I outlined above (more fully described in links in the first post).

--Bob


----------



## BJB23

Thanks Bob.


You're right about me needing to get used to the difference in the bass.* I never had the sub set at the proper level in my old system.* I'm going to turn the gain down on the sub, reposition it and then re-measure, but probably won't have time till next weekend.


I already tried raising the Max EQ frequency to 20KHz and acutally loaded those settings into my D2v and they sound realy good.* The charts for one of the rears and for one of the surrounds showed slighly more errors (not much) at the lower frequencies, which is why I backed off to 10KHz.* I didn't notice much difference with the charts for the rest of the speakers.* Since I already loaded the 20KHz settings, I thought I'd listen to them for a couple days and then load the 10kHz setting so I can do a proper comparison.


Thanks again Bob.


-Brad


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Jayray,

I've reconfirmed the 7.1 channel to 5.1 speaker problem using the 7.1 TrueHD track from "Nightmare Before Christmas" Blu-Ray (decoded to HDMI LPCM in the PS3).


Chapters 2 and 14 are particularly revealing.


You need to concentrate on the solo singing voices which are coming out of the Center speaker rather than the music which is coming out of the other speakers. When the PS3 is set to do the down mix to 5.1 channel output the result is airy, crisp and open -- everything we've come to expect from ARC.


But when the PS3 is set to output the full 7.1 channels (meaning the D2v should be doing the down mix to 5.1 speaker output) the Center speaker sounds "uncorrected". The audio is not distorted. It is, apparently, just not corrected. It sounds, to me, just like the Center speaker sounds if you turn Room EQ OFF. In my case that means it sounds a little more like it is in a box and with some harshness in the highs. Since the other main speakers are correct the contrast between them and Center should be evident unless your Center needs little correction to begin with. The bass is also boomy although these two chapters don't have much bass so it is not obvious.


I'm going to try Golden Compass now.


ETA: By the way, with the PS3 set to use only up to 5.1 channel output, ARC V2.0.1.1 is producing simply outstanding results from this disc. There is a tremendous amount of foley (sound effects) detail added to the scenes in all sorts of subtle ways, and it gets revealed in all its glory. And the bass sounds wonderful. The music sections are just phenomenal. I'm really excited about where this new ARC is going.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BJB23* /forum/post/15832011
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> 
> You're right about me needing to get used to the difference in the bass.* I never had the sub set at the proper level in my old system.* I'm going to turn the gain down on the sub, reposition it and then re-measure, but probably won't have time till next weekend.
> 
> 
> I already tried raising the Max EQ frequency to 20KHz and acutally loaded those settings into my D2v and they sound realy good.* The charts for one of the rears and for one of the surrounds showed slighly more errors (not much) at the lower frequencies, which is why I backed off to 10KHz.* I didn't notice much difference with the charts for the rest of the speakers.* Since I already loaded the 20KHz settings, I thought I'd listen to them for a couple days and then load the 10kHz setting so I can do a proper comparison.
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob.
> 
> 
> -Brad



You are on the right track.


Remember, trust your ears. Due to the directionality of speakers at high frequencies it is possible for ARC to get bad data up that high. That means that sometimes a low Max setting will sound better even though the curves might look better with a higher setting.


Errors in the low frequencies that are within about 1.5dB either side of the Target line or even 2dB or probably ignorable. So if you get a lot of high frequency improvement and the errors introduced in the low frequencies are small like that, then you will probably find it a better compromise to keep that extra high frequency improvement.


I'll say it again. Trust your ears. You don't listen to charts.


If you post the 20KHz charts I'll give you my opinion about whether the lower frequency errors are any problem.

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15831964
> 
> 
> Re-read the ARC related post links in the first post of this thread. You'll find in one or more of those posts detailed instructions for setting up with more than one sub.
> 
> 
> Here's a short summary:
> 
> 
> 1) Go to Setup > Speaker Configuration and specify that you have only 1 sub. This is the necessary setting for use with ARC regardless of how many subs you have. Always specify "1 Sub" if you intend to use ARC.
> 
> 
> 2) Next set the sub volumes separately. Turn one sub off (at the sub itself -- unplug it if necessary). Go to Setup > Level Calibration. Zero out every line in there. Then set Noise Level to produce 75dB SPL (the LF speaker will be the one playing). Then scroll to either sub line and, leaving that line at 0dB, adjust the volume knob in the still powered sub to produce 73dB SPL (not 75dB). Turn off that sub and turn on the other sub (again, at the subs). Adjust it's volume knob to also produce 73dB. You are done. In combo they'll produce roughly 75dB. "Roughly" is close enough.
> 
> 
> 3) Next set the phase for each sub separately. With only one sub powered at a time, adjust the Polarity/Phase for that sub to best match the LF speaker. Use the phase/polarity controls on the sub itself. You'll need the phase adjustment tones on a calibration DVD -- details are in those post links in the first post of this thread. When both subs are in phase with LF then they are also in phase with each other.
> 
> 
> 4) Now do ARC Measurement (with BOTH subs powered on). ARC will hear the two subs as a combo and will correct accordingly. This is the only proper way to use ARC with more than one sub.
> 
> 
> 5) After you do your ARC Upload you should find that 1 Sub is still specified. The speaker volume trim and crossover uploaded for the sub will be the correct values for your combo of two subs.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Do I understand correctly that even your other test gear showed a significant loss of high frequencies from your surrounds whenever the mic wasn't directly underneath them? If so then this is an indication that these speakers, installed this way, aren't going to be able to do the job for you. As currently installed they are too directional at high frequencies -- i.e., what ARC is showing in its charts for them, sad to say, is correct.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The way you adjust crossovers (and you really shouldn't have to do this) is to open your saved file of Measurements in ARC Advanced mode and bring up the Targets window. You adjust the "cutoffs" shown there and ARC takes care of the crossovers based on that.
> 
> 
> Do not fiddle with the crossovers in the Setup menu after ARC has Uploaded results. The crossovers it Uploads must be paired with the room correction results it also Uploads. Make changes, if you must, in the Targets window in ARC. Accept those changes (which dismisses the Targets window), re-Calculate and re-Upload.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The porting issue on your main speakers is tough to predict. I would start with the speaker maker's recommended "default" configuration and only change from that if you decide you don't like what ARC does when they are set that way.
> 
> 
> I'm afraid I can't tell by your description what these two sets of charts are supposed to be showing, but the way you set up the two subs separately invalidates the bass in these charts anyway. So you'll need to try again following the two sub procedure I outlined above (more fully described in links in the first post).
> 
> --Bob





Thanks Bob!


If I tell the AVM I only have one sub will I need a splitter on the sub out of the AVM to get a signal to sub #2? I assume the 2nd sub output on the AVM (I'm using now) is going to be inactive if I tell the AVM I only have 1 sub. The funny thing is I performed the 1st three recommended steps correctly, I messed up when I didn't tell the AVM I had only 1 sub. Never saw that one coming. Thanks for the detailed explanation.


In the latest version of ARC, should I set the target high to 15,000 or 20,000?


I agree...the surrounds will probably not improve...but I did verify...only verified that the tweeter (highs) works (in direct line of sight). It's a long story but the HT guy didn't test the tweeter from a listening position, they were in a hurry. They went around and tested each speaker separately just to confirm the speaker was as at a minimum functioning. So all I know for sure is the speaker works, as for acoustics and set up...that's what ARC will tell us. It was I that hypothesized that distance from the mic (seating location) is the issue...I could be wrong...at least I'm hoping so. Long story short, ARC 2.0 probably won't fix it but I'm holding out hope because short of replacing these nice speakers I have no other alternative. At least I know the speaker works.


The two groups of charts show the difference in the mains and sub between changes. AVM with dipole graphs used the old sub and had the main fully ported; new sub charts include the new subs and the mains unported. I know for a fact when the baffles/ports are stuffed (sealed), the mains don’t go as low. That’s how they’re designed. Unfortunately there isn’t a default setting, the manual states it’s all user preference.


I think I’m going to port the mains up again which should push the cross over frequency higher on the mains thus pushing more low end to the sub….right? My final question is do you think there is a sweet spot for a sub (personal preference)? Assume the sub is capable of reaching all frequencies. Do you prefer for your sub to work with only 40 Hz and below or do you like it to mix in some 50 and 60 Hz sound? Personally I thought it sounded kind of strange that the sub only kicked in when it was something requiring some DEEP base (40 Hzand below). The subs seem to be very quiet for the vast majority of the bass content. The good news is when they did kick in, the room was shaking. Batman rocked!


Thanks for ALL the help!!!!! You have a lot of patience to deal with people like myself who don’t know squat about this stuff.


Update!!! It's 12:57 in the morning and I've been reading all those ARC posts on the front page. I now have more questions....arggg..... Since we think I have directional issues with my tweeters on my surrounds, should I be running the target max at 5 Mhz to eliminate the directional issue that was mentioned several times in those posts referencing running the target max to high? I've been using 20k and 15k. I've read all the sub posts, does ARC adjust for Polarity or is that always the users responsibility?


Do I need to delete the old ARC software when I load the new ARC software?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15832138
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob!
> 
> 
> If I tell the AVM I only have one sub will I need a splitter on the sub out of the AVM to get a signal to sub #2? I assume the 2nd sub output on the AVM (I'm using now) is going to be inactive if I tell the AVM I only have 1 sub. The funny thing is I performed the 1st three recommended steps correctly, I messed up when I didn't tell the AVM I had only 1 sub. Never saw that one coming. Thanks for the detailed explanation.
> 
> 
> In the latest version of ARC, should I set the target high to 15,000 or 20,000?
> 
> 
> I agree...the surrounds will probably not improve...but I did verify...only verified that the tweeter (highs) works (in direct line of sight). It's a long story but the HT guy didn't test the tweeter from a listening position, they were in a hurry. They went around and tested each speaker separately just to confirm the speaker was as at a minimum functioning. So all I know for sure is the speaker works, as for acoustics and set up...that's what ARC will tell us. It was I that hypothesized that distance from the mic (seating location) is the issue...I could be wrong...at least I'm hoping so. Long story short, ARC 2.0 probably won't fix it but I'm holding out hope because short of replacing these nice speakers I have no other alternative. At least I know the speaker works.
> 
> 
> The two groups of charts show the difference in the mains and sub between changes. AVM with dipole graphs used the old sub and had the main fully ported; new sub charts include the new subs and the mains unported. I know for a fact when the baffles/ports are stuffed (sealed), the mains don’t go as low. That’s how they’re designed. Unfortunately there isn’t a default setting, the manual states it’s all user preference.
> 
> 
> I think I’m going to port the mains up again which should push the cross over frequency higher on the mains thus pushing more low end to the sub….right? My final question is do you think there is a sweet spot for a sub (personal preference)? Assume the sub is capable of reaching all frequencies. Do you prefer for your sub to work with only 40 Hz and below or do you like it to mix in some 50 and 60 Hz sound? Personally I thought it sounded kind of strange that the sub only kicked in when it was something requiring some DEEP base (40 Hzand below). The subs seem to be very quiet for the vast majority of the bass content. The good news is when they did kick in, the room was shaking. Batman rocked!
> 
> 
> Thanks for ALL the help!!!!! You have a lot of patience to deal with people like myself who don’t know squat about this stuff.



No, both sub outputs (in fact all 4 if you include the two XLR outputs) are live even if you specify "1 Sub". They always and only carry the same, identical signal. They are not independent outputs. This is also why you need to do Phase/Polarity adjustments for your two subs using the controls built into each sub. The settings in the Anthem can not produce different results on the different sub output jacks.


The 1 Sub vs. 2 Subs stuff has to do with how level calibration is done. It alters the output from the Setup > Level Calibration menu to account for the extra sub. Again, if using ARC, the 1 Sub setting is the one that should *ALWAYS* be used.


-------------------------------------------------


In ARC V2.0.1, take a look at the green Calculated results curves. You can go into Targets, set a new Max EQ Frequency value, accept that change, and do a new Calculation to see how that alters the results. What you are looking for is how high you can push that (thus improving the high frequencies) before errors start appearing in the low frequencies.


You don't need to re-Measure to do this, so you can experiment with a bunch of different setting values in almost no time.


Start by doing a Calculation at 5KHz -- the default. Save that to a file.


Now do a Calculation at 20KHz. Save that to a file. Now open each of those files in turn to see what happens at the extreme settings. If 20KHz doesn't mess up the low frequencies (compared to the what 5KHz achieved) then you are good at 20KHz. Otherwise see how much you have to back off below 20KHz to clean up the low frequencies more like what 5KHz achieves. Find a compromise setting that gives as much high frequency correction as you can get without screwing up the lower frequencies.


When you've got a result you like, Upload it and give it a listen. Trust your ears. A result that sounds better IS better, regardless of how the curves look.


---------------------------------------------------


I suggest you plug your mains' ports so that the timbre from the mains is closer to the timbre from the surrounds -- less difference as you pan around the room.


There is no particular reason to prefer the sub be limited to the lowest frequencies or to be used at higher bass frequencies as well. The key is the low end extension of your other speakers. The sub has to work high enough to take over when your other speakers can no longer do the job.


The general rule of thumb is that you want the crossover for the mains to be no lower than twice the low frequency spec for them and the crossover for the sub to be no higher than half the high frequency spec for it. This allows an octave beyond the crossover in each direction, which gets used since the crossover is not a hard cutoff but rather a gradual roll off -- i.e., audio goes to each speaker beyond the crossover. This is why you need to match the sub phase with the mains as audio in the vicinity of the crossover will actually be playing from both of them.


I really think you'll get the best results by trusting the settings ARC chooses for you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Jayray,

I tried a few likely scenes in "Golden Compass" Blu-Ray (DTS-HD MA 7.1) and was *NOT* able to reproduce the problem in the Center speaker or bass boominess when the PS3 was set to produce 7.1 channel output.


I'm not sure why there should be a difference here. The only thing I can think of is that the scenes on the other discs that showed the problem were scenes where voice from the center was accompanied by significant amounts of audio from the other speakers (as when singing to music).


In Golden Compass, the background music is almost always gone when the speeches start.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15832138
> 
> 
> Update!!! It's 12:57 in the morning and I've been reading all those ARC posts on the front page. I now have more questions....arggg..... Since we think I have directional issues with my tweeters on my surrounds, should I be running the target max at 5 Mhz to eliminate the directional issue that was mentioned several times in those posts referencing running the target max to high? I've been using 20k and 15k. I've read all the sub posts, does ARC adjust for Polarity or is that always the users responsibility?
> 
> 
> Do I need to delete the old ARC software when I load the new ARC software?



This is actually a very good question. The answer is to use your ears.


Upload the 5KHz result and play some content you like that has a lot of surround to it. It doesn't have to be loud. Common sounds like doors opening in the surround field are often the most revealing.


Then Upload the best "compromise" result you get by raising the frequency and listen again.


If the lower frequency result sounds better then it is better despite the improved curves in the higher frequency result.


I'm going to guess that you will find the higher frequency result works better for you despite the directionality problem.


---------------------------------------


No you don't have to uninstall the old ARC before installing the new ARC. The new ARC will replace the old ARC.


I do suggest you delete the shortcut to the ARC application that the old installer put on your desktop. The new install will create a new shortcut for you.

--Bob


----------



## flavorguy

I had my AVM50v installed on Wednesday and am just getting my self accustomed to its video / audio settings etc.


I've noticed an interesting glitch and I'm wondering if this is a hardware or software issue.


I have a DirectTv and X-Box connected via component video. Audio is connected via digital coax and optical respectively. Since I'm one of these guys who surfs channels constantly, switching between B-Ball games etc, I specifically hooked up the SAT box video outs by component to speed the channel switching/eliminating HDMI hand shakes etc. The AVM50v is outputting 1080p/60 to my projector


I'm seeing that if I go from a 480i native source, and then attempt to switch to a 720P or 1080i source, the AVM50 freezes. I will get three blank screens- red, blue, green - and then the video distorts - either incorrect aspect ratio or a stuttering pattern of the top third of the image repeating down the entire screen. The audio is also distorted. If I toggle sources, the image corrects itself and I get the proper video input and audio... the problem does not happen if I switch between 720P and 1080i sources, just when going from 480 i to a HD resolution.


So any suggestions on next steps?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15832905
> 
> 
> I had my AVM50v installed on Wednesday and am just getting my self accustomed to its video / audio settings etc.
> 
> 
> I've noticed an interesting glitch and I'm wondering if this is a hardware or software issue.
> 
> 
> I have a DirectTv and X-Box connected via component video. Audio is connected via digital coax and optical respectively. Since I'm one of these guys who surfs channels constantly, switching between B-Ball games etc, I specifically hooked up the SAT box video outs by component to speed the channel switching/eliminating HDMI hand shakes etc. The AVM50v is outputting 1080p/60 to my projector
> 
> 
> I'm seeing that if I go from a 480i native source, and then attempt to switch to a 720P or 1080i source, the AVM50 freezes. I will get three blank screens- red, blue, green - and then the video distorts - either incorrect aspect ratio or a stuttering pattern of the top third of the image repeating down the entire screen. The audio is also distorted. If I toggle sources, the image corrects itself and I get the proper video input and audio... the problem does not happen if I switch between 720P and 1080i sources, just when going from 480 i to a HD resolution.
> 
> 
> So any suggestions on next steps?



On the audio side - there's a setting for each source called something like "Auto Digital - Yes/No". It defaults to No, but when I set it to Yes, I periodically got distorted audio when switching sources. Setting it to No seems to have fixed that.


No idea if that's your problem (all my audio is coming over HDMI), but it was weird, and now seems to be working, and seemed to be related to that setting.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15827520
> 
> 
> I have a HTPC, and for what what it's worth I haven't had any problems after letting it settle in with the D2v. I've been playing SD DVD's and BD's, as well as HD MPEG's and AVCHD's with no problems at all.
> 
> 
> In fact, I was all worried about 24p passthrough, but the VP in the D2v is so darn good, that the upconverting of 24p to 60p is seamless and I can't detect any judder (and I'm generally very sensitive to incorrect 24p implementation stutter, or 24p to non-24 multiple stutter).




Happy to see that you enjoy your D2v.










Which one of your HTPC are you using? Is it the one which is ATI 4xxx based?


To go through the D2 from my HTPC I am using the all DVD inputs with the following configuration


DVD1 through video Config 2 (1080p24)

DVD2 through video Config 1 (1080p60)

DVD3 through video Config 3 (1080p25)

DVD4 through video Config 4 (1080p50)


This allow me to easily watch none Region A blu-ray. Just need to set with catalyst the the rate frequency. With the ATI card none 60fps playback is not 100% smooth but not far from it. This is why for Region A I am using a Pioneer BDP-05FD. The 05FD is just an amazing player.


----------



## AbMagFab

Okay, I've read the posts in the OP here, and I see how to manually set up custom cropping (e.g. SD letterbox on an HD channel).


However, I don't see how to set this as a saved setting to toggle on/off, or select? I see how I can set it manually, but is there some way to save it to a config, and then one-button toggle it on/off?


I have the serial port working well, so I can send pretty much any command, but I hope the only way to get this working isn't to "manually" set all the parameters through the serial port each time?


Thanks for any advice!

-Mark


----------



## flavorguy

The reason that I ended up moving to the AVM50v was the ARC room correction ability. I have a very unique set-up - 5.1 - in wall, planar magnetic speakers (Boehlender grabner) for L,C,R and in-wall surrounds (Energy Veritas) , which were unfortunately placed behind me instead of to the side...


Here are my results. ARC ran this at an Eq freq of 5000.


Thanks for the help!

Attachment 133735 

Attachment 133736


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15832298
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> I tried a few likely scenes in "Golden Compass" Blu-Ray (DTS-HD MA 7.1) and was *NOT* able to reproduce the problem in the Center speaker or bass boominess when the PS3 was set to produce 7.1 channel output.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why there should be a difference here. The only thing I can think of is that the scenes on the other discs that showed the problem were scenes where voice from the center was accompanied by significant amounts of audio from the other speakers (as when singing to music).
> 
> 
> In Golden Compass, the background music is almost always gone when the speeches start.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I don't have either of those discs to test. Are there any others you think might work to demo this?

On another note, sometimes when I start a BD, the audio is jumbled in the trailers, pre movie junk. I also experienced no sound on the Transformers BD and had to switch sources to finally get it to go. Is this HDMI raising it's ugly head again? It is very frustrating









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15833444
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I don't have either of those discs to test. Are there any others you think might work to demo this?
> 
> On another note, sometimes when I start a BD, the audio is jumbled in the trailers, pre movie junk. I also experienced no sound on the Transformers BD and had to switch sources to finally get it to go. Is this HDMI raising it's ugly head again? It is very frustrating
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I've got some other discs with 7.1 tracks. I'll have to work my way through them if Anthem doesn't fix this problem before I get to them.


I suspect the faulty audio is going to turn out to be a glitch in the new DSP code rather than in HDMI. I've seen it every now and then as well. If you have a repeatable case, be sure to report to Nick.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15833242
> 
> 
> The reason that I ended up moving to the AVM50v was the ARC room correction ability. I have a very unique set-up - 5.1 - in wall, planar magnetic speakers (Boehlender grabner) for L,C,R and in-wall surrounds (Energy Veritas) , which were unfortunately placed behind me instead of to the side...
> 
> 
> Here are my results. ARC ran this at an Eq freq of 5000.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help!
> 
> Attachment 133735
> 
> Attachment 133736



These don't look bad at all for a first try. Even as stands they should sound very good indeed.


Your only real problem is with the Center speaker. I'll get back to that.


Your sub is showing good response down to 35Hz. This is a little anemic for home theater setups. There are subs available that go deeper. If you expected your sub to go deeper, check how you have it set up. Some subs have adjustable subsonic filters and you may have yours set too high. Often you can increase bass extension by repositioning the sub -- even inches matter. Try closer to a solid wall or corner to get some Boundary Gain in the lowest frequencies. In addition, check whether your sub is large enough for the cubic feet of air in your listening room.


With the exception of Center, I think your speakers would react well to raising Max EQ Frequency in the Targets window -- perhaps all the way up to 20KHz. I've discussed this many times in the past few pages so I'll refer you to those posts for explanation.


Now, your Center speaker has some problems. You've got what looks like a room cancellation null at 500Hz which is deeper than ARC will correct. The residual error is about 4dB so it is worth trying to deal with. Typically this would be done by shifting the speaker closer or away from the wall behind it, up higher over the surface below it, or adding some bass absorbing material to the wall behind it to reduce the reflection that is probably contributing to this cancellation. In addition your Center speaker is very weak in the highest frequencies. ARC can correct about half of that but you may end up with more wobbles in the results curve at lower frequencies. Weakness in the high frequencies can be caused by an obstruction in front of the speaker (e.g., a grill) or by poor pointing of the speaker (directionality is more of a problem at high frequencies). If your Center is not mounted close to seated ear height, pay particular attention to its vertical pointing. In addition, some Center speakers are designed to be mounted only horizontally or only vertically, so check that you are using yours as intended.


The Center carries a lot of important content in movies, so fixing both of these issues is worth some effort.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15833126
> 
> 
> Okay, I've read the posts in the OP here, and I see how to manually set up custom cropping (e.g. SD letterbox on an HD channel).
> 
> 
> However, I don't see how to set this as a saved setting to toggle on/off, or select? I see how I can set it manually, but is there some way to save it to a config, and then one-button toggle it on/off?
> 
> 
> I have the serial port working well, so I can send pretty much any command, but I hope the only way to get this working isn't to "manually" set all the parameters through the serial port each time?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any advice!
> 
> -Mark



The solution is to use the overlayed input definitions -- e.g., TV1 vs. TV2, etc. The Video Source Adjust settings are remembered separately for each of them. Set up one to use your Custom Crop setting and select that source for input when you want it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15832905
> 
> 
> I had my AVM50v installed on Wednesday and am just getting my self accustomed to its video / audio settings etc.
> 
> 
> I've noticed an interesting glitch and I'm wondering if this is a hardware or software issue.
> 
> 
> I have a DirectTv and X-Box connected via component video. Audio is connected via digital coax and optical respectively. Since I'm one of these guys who surfs channels constantly, switching between B-Ball games etc, I specifically hooked up the SAT box video outs by component to speed the channel switching/eliminating HDMI hand shakes etc. The AVM50v is outputting 1080p/60 to my projector
> 
> 
> I'm seeing that if I go from a 480i native source, and then attempt to switch to a 720P or 1080i source, the AVM50 freezes. I will get three blank screens- red, blue, green - and then the video distorts - either incorrect aspect ratio or a stuttering pattern of the top third of the image repeating down the entire screen. The audio is also distorted. If I toggle sources, the image corrects itself and I get the proper video input and audio... the problem does not happen if I switch between 720P and 1080i sources, just when going from 480 i to a HD resolution.
> 
> 
> So any suggestions on next steps?



Give Anthem tech support a call tomorrow (Canada is closed today) even if the suggestion above about the Auto Dig setting works for you.


This is a bug and Anthem needs to get the details from you about how to reproduce it so they can squash it.


It may already be fixed in the "test" V2.02c(13feb) firmware. They will likely ask you to install that firmware to see.


Although there is no handshake per se when using Component, the video board in the Anthem still has to sync up with the Component signal. It sounds like you have found a problem in that.


The Auto Dig setting shouldn't have anything to do with this, but software being software I suppose it might. Auto Dig ON tells the Anthem to monitor the digital audio input you have specified and to automatically switch to the ANALOG stereo RCA audio pair for that named source (e.g., the DVD RCA jacks for any of the DVD1 through DVD4 inputs) whenever the digital audio signal goes away. This is primarily intended for some cable set top boxes that only put out digital audio if you are tuned to a digital channel -- so you need to hook up both ways.


Of course the digital audio goes away briefly while you are changing channels, so if Auto Dig is ON the software is doing some work at that point. That shouldn't interfere with the way the Component video is syncing up.

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15832332
> 
> 
> This is actually a very good question. The answer is to use your ears.
> 
> 
> Upload the 5KHz result and play some content you like that has a lot of surround to it. It doesn't have to be loud. Common sounds like doors opening in the surround field are often the most revealing.
> 
> 
> Then Upload the best "compromise" result you get by raising the frequency and listen again.
> 
> 
> If the lower frequency result sounds better then it is better despite the improved curves in the higher frequency result.
> 
> 
> I'm going to guess that you will find the higher frequency result works better for you despite the directionality problem.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> No you don't have to uninstall the old ARC before installing the new ARC. The new ARC will replace the old ARC.
> 
> 
> I do suggest you delete the shortcut to the ARC application that the old installer put on your desktop. The new install will create a new shortcut for you.
> 
> --Bob




Ok...I feel like I'm ready for the day. I was up till 2:30 last night reading all those posts.


The subs are already phased in, I've downloaded the new ARC and will run the new tests today. I had no idea I could recalculate the targets within ARC with one sweep...that's AWESOME...I always reran the sweep with the new target.


Now comes the demo content...any recommendations on a good Blue Ray disc or four that have great surround sound content or specific scenes you recommend. I'm going to nail this today. I finally have a bloody day off from work....


Thanks!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15834051
> 
> 
> Ok...I feel like I'm ready for the day. I was up till 2:30 last night reading all those posts.
> 
> 
> The subs are already phased in, I've downloaded the new ARC and will run the new tests today. I had no idea I could recalculate the targets within ARC with one sweep...that's AWESOME...I always reran the sweep with the new target.
> 
> 
> Now comes the demo content...any recommendations on a good Blue Ray disc or four that have great surround sound content or specific scenes you recommend. I'm going to nail this today. I finally have a bloody day off from work....
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!!



I don't really have a good test disc in mind for this. The key is to pick a disc you really like because you will likely have to play the same passages quite a few times over the next few days.


Keep in mind that once you have created your candidate ARC files that you can Upload a different one later if you come across a disc you think has particularly interesting surround audio. So presuming both ARC results sound decent to you, you can defer the choice between them to later.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15834051
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the demo content...any recommendations on a good Blue Ray disc or four that have great surround sound content or specific scenes you recommend. I'm going to nail this today. I finally have a bloody day off from work....
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!!



Some of my recommendations:


KID FRIENDLY: "Kung Fu Panda."


"The Dark Knight" is a good disc because the dialog is on the edge of being too quiet... it will help make sure your center in integrated in.


"Cloverfield." Bombastic and dynamic.


"The Bourne Ultimatum." Ton's of detail and dynamics.. it didn't win the Oscars for mixing and sound editing last year for nothing.










7.1 Demo: "Hellboy 2."


ADULTS ONLY: "Wanted." My favorite track of last year... very violent and not everyone will like the film, but the track is fantastic.


Music BR: "John Mayer: Where the Light Is."


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For any newbies, FilmMixer does this for a living and has his own Emmy to show for it.


His recommendations are the real deal.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've discovered another interesting improvement in the V2.xx firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v.


In Setup > Source Setup if you specify that the Audio Input is Analog DSP or Analog Direct there is now an additional item to let you choose *WHICH* Analog input will be used!


In the older firmware the setup for VCR, for example, could use any optical or coax or HDMI jack for audio input but the only Analog input it could use was the RCA stereo jack pair labeled VCR.


For overlayed inputs like TV1 through TV4, the stereo jack pair labeled TV was the only one that could be used.


But with the 2.xx firmware you can now select which analog input to use for each Source Setup that plays analog audio, which means you could, for example reuse the same analog input for different source definitions even if they weren't overlayed definitions. Or you could use a different analog input for two overlayed definitions.


------------------------------------------


On the other hand the "HDMI Map" function which was used to counter some of the multi-channel audio assignment confusion in older DVD-A discs has now been eliminated.


------------------------------------------


For folks moving from the D2 or AVM 50 to the D2v or AVM 50v, keep an eye out for other changes that might be hidden in the new firmware, and report what you find.


For folks staying with the D2 or AVM 50, I think it likely these changes will appear in the upcoming V1.34 firmware for your units.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15834371
> 
> 
> For any newbies, FilmMixer does this for a living and has his own Emmy to show for it.
> 
> 
> His recommendations are the real deal.
> 
> --Bob



That is correct.


The problem is that when you meet him in person, you see how incredibly arrogant and unfriendly he is.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Careful there! He can see to it that you never work in this town again!










--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15835108
> 
> 
> Careful there! He can see to it that you never work in this town again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



In that case, Marc is the most friendly and down to earth person I have met!











Seriously though, Marc's contributions on this forum are greatly appreciated, and he is certainly very generous, easy to talk to, and fun to hang out with......especially when he is at work!!


----------



## Big Tex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15834323
> 
> 
> Some of my recommendations:
> 
> 
> KID FRIENDLY: "Kung Fu Panda."
> 
> 
> "The Dark Knight" is a good disc because the dialog is on the edge of being too quiet... it will help make sure your center in integrated in.
> 
> 
> "Cloverfield." Bombastic and dynamic.
> 
> 
> "The Bourne Ultimatum." Ton's of detail and dynamics.. it didn't win the Oscars for mixing and sound editing last year for nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7.1 Demo: "Hellboy 2."
> 
> 
> ADULTS ONLY: "Wanted." My favorite track of last year... very violent and not everyone will like the film, but the track is fantastic.
> 
> 
> Music BR: "John Mayer: Where the Light Is."





P-E-R-F-E-C-T...


I've been using the Dark Knight on Blue Ray, so I'll stick with it. I particularly like the opening scene, the ballistics test scene (gun), and the different scenes from Hong Kong.


I also own Cloverfield and the Bourne in BR.


I'll stick to Clover and Dark Knight to keep it simple. Do you recommend any particular scenes on either disc?


Thanks for the help!


PS. What did you get the Emmy for? Congrats...that's so cool....


----------



## Big Tex

On a different note, I've been reading all these posts about the new upgraded Anthem products. I have a simple question. If I'm running a 7.1 system, would I see any significant increase in sound by upgrading to a V series? Does the bitstream capability or native support of TrueHD and DTS make a big difference over the PCM Dolby PIIx I'm using today? What are the real benefits of the V series over the old. I'm perfectly content with the video processing in my AVM50 with ARC.


Blueray question: Are soundtracks mixed in 7.1 or are they still mixed in 5.1 and the Anthem processor does the rest?


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15835232
> 
> 
> On a different note, I've been reading all these posts about the new upgraded Anthem products. I have a simple question. If I'm running a 7.1 system, would I see any significant increase in sound by upgrading to a V series? Does the bitstream capability or native support of TrueHD and DTS make a big difference over the PCM Dolby PIIx I'm using today? What are the real benefits of the V series over the old. I'm perfectly content with the video processing in my AVM50 with ARC.
> 
> 
> Blueray question: Are soundtracks mixed in 7.1 or are they still mixed in 5.1 and the Anthem processor does the rest?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



FilmMixer could probably rattle off the current stats, but the bottom line is that it is still the case that most movie tracks are mixed as 5.1. However Blu-Ray supports real 7.1 tracks and there are a number of feature films that have been mixed that way. We've just been discussing some of them.


Unlike in multi-channel games, the rear surround field in most movies is not that aggressive. This makes sense since most people have 5.1 setups and these same movie tracks need to still sound good when the rear content is mixed into the side surrounds for them as well.


This means that using PLIIx (as in your AVM 50) to raise 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output is often indistinguishable from listening to a 7.1 track through a system that is 7.1 from end to end, (i.e., the D2v or AVM 50v).


So I wouldn't do the upgrade simply to get access to 7.1 channel HDMI input.


But if you are considering the upgrade for multiple reasons, that would be another one to toss into the hopper.


-------------------------------------------------


The bitstream support adds nothing if you have a Blu-Ray player (such as the PS3) that properly decodes the new audio formats to HDMI LPCM.


-------------------------------------------------


The key changes in the new units are:


1) More HDMI inputs. Dual HDMI output. HDMI V1.3c (more robust connections -- notwithstanding some of the early bug reports!







).


2) HDMI LPCM audio input now up to 7.1 channels and up to 192KHz/24 bit (older units are limited to 5.1 at 96/24). NOTE: Multi-channel analog input is still 5.1


3) Latest VXP video processing chip from Sigma Designs: 12 bits per component (36 bits per pixel) video processing path from end to end (vs. 10/30 processing in older units -- limited to 24 bits per pixel at the inputs and outputs). "Deep Color" support (36 bits per pixel inputs and outputs). Dual video processing signal paths (currently both used, but you can't set different settings yet). Enhanced noise reduction and detail enhancement processing. Improved handling of less common de-interlacing cadences. Inverse telecine support rumored to be coming soon (output TV and SD-DVD movies at 1080p/24 to a display that accepts that).


4) Ability to decode TrueHD and DTS-HD MA bitstreams for folks who prefer a player that doesn't do the decoding for you. My recommendation remains that you should buy a Blu-Ray player that does the decoding.


5) "Dolby Volume" feature coming soon as a free firmware upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

Please excuse me for trying to get more familiar with the D2v, I am sure these questions have been discussed, but it really looks things have progressed quite a bit over the last year now, which is a great thing.... The long list of features certainly makes this quite an incredible looking unit..


Dual HDMI outputs - does this offer the ability to run the same material out at the same time..? net yet or never...?


After running ARC, does the D2v allow the ability to tweek EQ settings after it does its thing? Customizable EQ?


Also what are the main differences between the AVM 50v and the D2v



Thank you


Patrick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15835504
> 
> 
> Dual HDMI outputs - does this offer the ability to run the same material out at the same time..? net yet or never...?
> 
> 
> After running ARC, does the D2v allow the ability to tweek EQ settings after it does its thing? Customizable EQ?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> Patrick



The two HDMI outputs of the D2v and AVM 50v are "parallel". That means they are both live at the same time but that you can not send different video output configurations to them -- they carry always and only the same signal.


Now the VXP chip in the D2v and AVM 50v has separate video processing paths, and the design uses both of them. So it is possible that Anthem may be able to relax this restriction in future firmware upgrades. The problem is likely to be HDMI. The HDMI spec allows for fan out of one input to multiple outputs, but it assumes the multiple outputs are all carrying the same signal. That means there may be a problem satisfying HDMI as, for example, with regard to copy protection if different styles of output are configured.


--------------------------------------


All customization of the ARC results are done in the ARC Windows application. ARC Calculates the results and Uploads the data to the Anthem. Keep in mind that ARC is designed to find and eliminate "room response" characteristics that interfere with perfect reproduction of audio. It is not a system for coloring or altering audio to your tastes.


However, once you have ARC set up (results Uploaded into the Anthem), you still have the full set of features of the Anthem itself for setting personal preferences. These would include choice of surround audio modes, choice to use THX post processing or not, Bass/Treble adjustments, and the ability to do on the fly, temporary adjustments of speaker volume trims via the remote -- for example to boost the Center if you are having trouble hearing dialog in some program.


ARC offers charts which show what it has Measured, the Targets it is trying to achieve, and Calculated results estimating how close it is coming to reaching those Targets. As you've probably seen from the recent posts here, those charts are invaluable in discovering problems in your speakers or in your room set up that you can correct so ARC can bring your system even closer to perfection.


ARC does not give you control over the algorithm it uses to detect and eliminate undesirable room response characteristics. In that regard, it is a "black box". But oh what a wonderful black box.


By the way, ARC in the older Anthem units is identical to ARC in the D2v. So you don't need to upgrade to the new unit just to get ARC.


For differences between the D2v and AVM 50v, see the discussion starting with this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post15546653 


--Bob


----------



## flavorguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15834031
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call tomorrow (Canada is closed today) even if the suggestion above about the Auto Dig setting works for you.
> 
> 
> This is a bug and Anthem needs to get the details from you about how to reproduce it so they can squash it.
> 
> 
> It may already be fixed in the "test" V2.02c(13feb) firmware. They will likely ask you to install that firmware to see.
> 
> 
> Although there is no handshake per se when using Component, the video board in the Anthem still has to sync up with the Component signal. It sounds like you have found a problem in that.
> 
> 
> The Auto Dig setting shouldn't have anything to do with this, but software being software I suppose it might. Auto Dig ON tells the Anthem to monitor the digital audio input you have specified and to automatically switch to the ANALOG stereo RCA audio pair for that named source (e.g., the DVD RCA jacks for any of the DVD1 through DVD4 inputs) whenever the digital audio signal goes away. This is primarily intended for some cable set top boxes that only put out digital audio if you are tuned to a digital channel -- so you need to hook up both ways.
> 
> 
> Of course the digital audio goes away briefly while you are changing channels, so if Auto Dig is ON the software is doing some work at that point. That shouldn't interfere with the way the Component video is syncing up.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - I thought this sounded like a software glitch of some sort...


Thanks for your advice on this as well as my ARC results...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My new D2v runs substantially cooler than my prior D2. My D2 used the original vintage D2 power supply.


Even measured directly at the air vents over the power supply, the D2v only gets up to 93 degrees F. It should be substantially easier for folks to arrange suitable ventilation around the D2v than was the case with the original D2.


Of course this means the D2v is no longer suitable for heating burritos. In fact it probably isn't even suitable for keeping cocoa warm.


But then even the original D2 wasn't suitable for frying eggs.


[For newbies: The heat vents are SUPPOSED to get warm over the power supply. That's what they are there for -- to dissipate the heat from inside the chassis. If you have your D2v in any sort of enclosed space what matters is how the surfaces AROUND the D2v are heating up. If they heat up too much then your D2v is in an oven -- it can't dissipate heat. If they don't heat up much above your ambient room temperature then you have adequate ventilation despite the enclosure -- the D2v is able to dissipate its heat.]

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15831964
> 
> 
> ...........2) Next set the sub volumes separately. Turn one sub off (at the sub itself -- unplug it if necessary). Go to Setup > Level Calibration. Zero out every line in there. Then set Noise Level to produce 75dB SPL (the LF speaker will be the one playing). Then scroll to either sub line and, leaving that line at 0dB, adjust the volume knob in the still powered sub to produce 73dB SPL (not 75dB). Turn off that sub and turn on the other sub (again, at the subs). Adjust it's volume knob to also produce 73dB. You are done. In combo they'll produce roughly 75dB and they are balance with respect to each other. "Roughly" is close enough.
> 
> 
> 3) Next set the phase for each sub separately. With only one sub powered at a time, adjust the Polarity/Phase for that sub to best match the LF speaker. Use the phase/polarity controls on the sub itself. You'll need the phase adjustment tones on a calibration DVD -- details are in those post links in the first post of this thread. When both subs are in phase with LF then they are also in phase with each other.
> 
> 
> 4) Now do ARC Measurement (with BOTH subs powered on). ARC will hear the two subs as a combo and will correct accordingly. This is the only proper way to use ARC with more than one sub.
> 
> 
> 5) After you do your ARC Upload you should find that 1 Sub is still specified. The speaker volume trim and crossover uploaded for the sub will be the correct values for your combo of two subs..............
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I am ordering a pair of new speakers for the fronts, the new Martin Logan CLX. Each channel will be crossing over to a Martin Logan Descent-i sub, i.e. 2 subs total. The subs are also capable to accepting input from the LFE channel simultaneously. So for movies, each sub can combine the crossover signals from the left or right fronts together with the LFE channel signal coming from the D2 in parallel.


In view of your instructions on how to set up 2 subs for the LFE channel, I am just wondering how to go about setting the level for mine. If I were to set levels for them, it will screw up their balance with the CLX. As far as I can see, the only way to get it right for ARC measurements is to tell the D2 I am not using any sub and let it channel the LFE channel into the front speakers automatically. In this case, I will not be using the LFE channel at all in operating. Am I missing something here? Appreciate your advice. Thanks.


Ben


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15835420
> 
> 
> FilmMixer could probably rattle off the current stats, but the bottom line is that it is still the case that most movie tracks are mixed as 5.1. However Blu-Ray supports real 7.1 tracks and there are a number of feature films that have been mixed that way.



Just to put a pedantic spin on it, these 7.1 mixes were not released theatrically--they are remixes for home use done by third parties. I'm looking forward to the day when the dubbing stages mix in 7.1... or more!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15836078
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I am ordering a pair of new speakers for the fronts, the new Martin Logan CLX. Each channel will be crossing over to a Martin Logan Descent-i sub, i.e. 2 subs total. The subs are also capable to accepting input from the LFE channel simultaneously. So for movies, each sub can combine the crossover signals from the left or right fronts together with the LFE channel signal coming from the D2 in parallel.
> 
> 
> In view of your instructions on how to set up 2 subs for the LFE channel, I am just wondering how to go about setting the level for mine. If I were to set levels for them, it will screw up their balance with the CLX. As far as I can see, the only way to get it right for ARC measurements is to tell the D2 I am not using any sub and let it channel the LFE channel into the front speakers automatically. In this case, I will not be using the LFE channel at all in operating. Am I missing something here? Appreciate your advice. Thanks.
> 
> 
> Ben



As you have discovered, unlike most pre-pros the Anthems will steer LFE content to full-range mains just fine (most pre-pros just discard it if you have no sub attached to that output). The Anthems will also steer bass from surrounds to the mains if you have no sub.


So what you have is just a slightly more complicated set of full-range main speakers and no sub!


----------------------------------------------


Tell ARC that you have no sub when you start up Measurement, and wire the speakers normally (no LFE connection -- just the normal LF/RF connections). Follow the instructions for your speakers to volume match and phase match the satellite sub for each speaker with the main drivers for that speaker.


Once you do the ARC Measurements in ARC V2.0.1, it will come up with Targets that have "Full Range" checked for your LF/RF speakers (since you have told ARC you have no sub). That means no bass steering will be done to your non-existent sub. Instead bass steering from the surrounds will go to the mains and LFE will also go to the mains.


However, ARC will also assign a room correction "cutoff" to that LF/RF pair that imposes a roll off at the lowest frequencies. If your satellite subs are capable of going deep, lower that LF/RF "cutoff" Target to 25Hz, adjust Max EQ Frequency target as we have discussed, accept those changes and do a Calculation.


Check the red Measured curves for LF/RF for any indication your satellite subs are not properly volume or phase matched to the main drivers for each of those speakers -- e.g. unusual dips near the internal crossover between them (indicating phase problems) or low bass output much higher than low mid-range output (indicating volume problems). If you spot a problem correct the setup in the satellite subs and Measure again.


If the Measured curve shows that the satellite subs are well matched with the main drivers for their attached speaker, and the Calculated results look decent then you are good to go.


ARC will Upload a no-sub configuration with the LF/RF used full-range.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15836241
> 
> 
> ...............So what you have is just a slightly more complicated set of full-range main speakers and no sub!
> 
> 
> ...............However, ARC will also assign a room correction "cutoff" to that LF/RF pair that imposes a roll off at the lowest frequencies. If your satellite subs are capable of going deep, change that LF/RF "cutoff" Target to 25Hz, adjust Max EQ Frequency target as we have discussed, accept those changes and do a Calculation.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for your advice, Bob.


I guess my setup will simply be similar to speaker systems that have separate housing for the bass unit(s). Actually it is, only that the sub is optional. It's Low Pass filter even has a "CLX" stop, amongst those for other frequencies.


The sub is rated 18Hz at -3dB. Because of the "cutoff" target, I will not be losing the extreme low end of the LFE channel, wouldn't I?

Ben.


----------



## benleeys

Bob,

In addition to the above post, I am not sure at this stage, but I think the "CLX" Low Pass point would be somewhere around 50-60Hz. I understand that LFE signals start from around 80Hz, will setting such a point prevent the D2 from passing fully the LFE signals being channelled to it?

Ben


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15836160
> 
> 
> Just to put a pedantic spin on it, these 7.1 mixes were not released theatrically--they are remixes for home use done by third parties. I'm looking forward to the day when the dubbing stages mix in 7.1... or more!



If the dubbing stages mix in 7.1 or more, will it be advantageous enough to make a genuine sound improvement into our homes, through blu-ray?


Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan

I had my dealer do the ARC 2.01.1 upgrade today at my house. New sweeps and all.

Sound is more detailed. Soundstage is bigger. Tighter bass. Overall a very nice improvement. I notice the ARC microphone was more sensitive when we did the sweeps. Very small noises would stop the sweeps. Noises that before did not seem to effect it. Interesting. Well the results were impressive.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15836160
> 
> 
> Just to put a pedantic spin on it, these 7.1 mixes were not released theatrically--they are remixes for home use done by third parties. I'm looking forward to the day when the dubbing stages mix in 7.1... or more!



What be said. We aren't mixing in 7.1.


I am working with a company right now that has a theatrical 384.8 system and technology


Yes.


384 discrete channels and speakers. 8 discrete LFE.


Were hoping to mix a film in the format this year.


Next time you're down here I'll take you for a listen if you haven't already heard it.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15837133
> 
> 
> What be said. We aren't mixing in 7.1.
> 
> 
> I am working with a company right now that has a theatrical 384.8 system and technology
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> 
> 384 discrete channels and speakers. 8 discrete LFE.
> 
> 
> Were hoping to mix a film in the format this year.
> 
> 
> Next time you're down here I'll take you for a listen if you haven't already heard it.



So I'm guessing PLIIx-Movie doesn't cut it for matrixing 384 channels?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15836370
> 
> 
> The sub is rated 18Hz at -3dB. Because of the "cutoff" target, I will not be losing the extreme low end of the LFE channel, wouldn't I?
> 
> Ben.



No, you'll be fine. The 25Hz "cutoff" setting is the equivalent of no cutoff. ARC actually measures/corrects down to 5Hz.


But I would also suggest you save the results file with the cutoff ARC chooses for you and give that one a listen as well. You very well might like that one better.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15836518
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> In addition to the above post, I am not sure at this stage, but I think the "CLX" Low Pass point would be somewhere around 50-60Hz. I understand that LFE signals start from around 80Hz, will setting such a point prevent the D2 from passing fully the LFE signals being channelled to it?
> 
> Ben



LFE starts rolling in around 125Hz, but both the roll in of LFE and the effect of a crossover are gradual. Generally you've got another octave.


But keep in mind that the "CLX" crossover you are referring to is the transition between the main drivers and the satellite sub in your combo speaker. Presumably the pre-defined "CLX" value is what they consider the optimum transition point. So any LFE higher than that frequency isn't going to get lost. It will simply be handled by the main drivers of the combo speaker just as the manufacturer intended.


The separate LFE input on your satellite subs is for all those lesser pre-pros out there that aren't as smart as the Anthem. I.e., pre-pros that don't steer LFE into the main LF/RF output channels when you have no sub configured.


ARC will send all the right amount of LFE to the LF/RF speakers -- mixed of course with the bass coming in on those channels already. Your combo speakers will reproduce some of that in their main drivers and some in the satellite sub.


You'll see from the red Measured curves in ARC just how well that is working. Normal deviations will be corrected by ARC. Since your speaker maker has thought to hand you default setup settings for including these satellite subs the odds are there will be no mistakes in their setup you will need to address.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15835691
> 
> 
> The two HDMI outputs of the D2v and AVM 50v are "parallel". That means they are both live at the same time but that you can not send different video output configurations to them -- they carry always and only the same signal.
> 
> 
> Now the VXP chip in the D2v and AVM 50v has separate video processing paths, and the design uses both of them. So it is possible that Anthem may be able to relax this restriction in future firmware upgrades. The problem is likely to be HDMI. The HDMI spec allows for fan out of one input to multiple outputs, but it assumes the multiple outputs are all carrying the same signal. That means there may be a problem satisfying HDMI as, for example, with regard to copy protection if different styles of output are configured.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> All customization of the ARC results are done in the ARC Windows application. ARC Calculates the results and Uploads the data to the Anthem. Keep in mind that ARC is designed to find and eliminate "room response" characteristics that interfere with perfect reproduction of audio. It is not a system for coloring or altering audio to your tastes.
> 
> 
> However, once you have ARC set up (results Uploaded into the Anthem), you still have the full set of features of the Anthem itself for setting personal preferences. These would include choice of surround audio modes, choice to use THX post processing or not, Bass/Treble adjustments, and the ability to do on the fly, temporary adjustments of speaker volume trims via the remote -- for example to boost the Center if you are having trouble hearing dialog in some program.
> 
> 
> ARC offers charts which show what it has Measured, the Targets it is trying to achieve, and Calculated results estimating how close it is coming to reaching those Targets. As you've probably seen from the recent posts here, those charts are invaluable in discovering problems in your speakers or in your room set up that you can correct so ARC can bring your system even closer to perfection.
> 
> 
> ARC does not give you control over the algorithm it uses to detect and eliminate undesirable room response characteristics. In that regard, it is a "black box". But oh what a wonderful black box.
> 
> 
> By the way, ARC in the older Anthem units is identical to ARC in the D2v. So you don't need to upgrade to the new unit just to get ARC.
> 
> 
> For differences between the D2v and AVM 50v, see the discussion starting with this post:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post15546653
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob for the explanation of the dual outboound HDMI restrictions, it is likely that I will only have the need for an exact copy of the material on both displays like the football game in the kitchen when people are commuting back and forth, just nice to have a clarification, I know of and understand the pains and restrictions that HDMI has implemented upon manufacturers. Also thank you for the link to the differences of the 2 models.


The differences between the AVM50v and the D2 IMO are pretty large for that next step in sonic quality and performance on the road to perfection... I think you are getting you moneys worth in the final leg of the journey to the D2v, and Anthem has a pretty darn good track record of its never ending upgradability path, which sells itself.


I think that Anthem has finally brought perfection to the plate with the D2v. My interest has truly been piqued with the latest incarnation.


I have found and read Kal Rubinson 's take on the Anthem D2 + ARC and am pulling a quote, which is pretty much taking on the question I had about tweekability of final EQ after ARC...



> Quote:
> Footnote 1: At the moment, neither Anthem's ARC nor Audyssey's SEQ permits the user to add his or her own filters to the determined equalization. However, Audyssey announced that in September, at the 2008 CEDIA Expo, they planned to release v3.0 of the Pro software, which will include such capability in addition to other new features. Given Anthem's demonstrated ability to rapidly enhance their software, I wouldn't be surprised to see a similar feature appear in ARC.



I understand this isn't avail at the moment, curious if there is a plan for that in the future... perhaps I'm a bit premature on this questioning, as anthem is probably quite busy working on the realease here, and pinning down the final loose strings.


Patrick...


----------



## Big Tex

Bob....I think I have reason to celebrate....I think...


I ran ARC 2.1 and here are the new results. I've attached the old 1.25 and the new 2.1 charts. It appears the surrounds have made an improvement.


I think it's due to ARC 2.1. When I ran 2.1 at 5000 target, the surround tanked at 5k hz. So I reran it at 15k and 20k. I've attached the 20k before and after. I took the before 20k results a week ago and here are today's new ARC 2.1 results.


Does it look better?


Thanks!!!!!


----------



## FranceHibbi

Hey Guys!


Im new here so please be easy on the new guy. I am having an issue with my Anthem D2v. I have it setup for 7.1 but for some odd reason 1 rear channel doesnt work. First thing i thought was it could be the channel itself. So i decided to try differenent channels to see, but seems like the 7th channel always ends up soundless. So I decided to do a beep test, only my 2 fronts give out signal and no other channels.


I do have firmware 1.34 running but was wondering if it could a firmware issue and maybe downgrade to 1.33 firmware.


Any thoughts?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15833918
> 
> 
> The solution is to use the overlayed input definitions -- e.g., TV1 vs. TV2, etc. The Video Source Adjust settings are remembered separately for each of them. Set up one to use your Custom Crop setting and select that source for input when you want it.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, works like a charm.


And what's very nice is it's smart enough not to do another HDMI handshake, so the "toggle" is very fast.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FranceHibbi* /forum/post/15838506
> 
> 
> Hey Guys!
> 
> 
> Im new here so please be easy on the new guy. I am having an issue with my Anthem D2v. I have it setup for 7.1 but for some odd reason 1 rear channel doesnt work. First thing i thought was it could be the channel itself. So i decided to try differenent channels to see, but seems like the 7th channel always ends up soundless. So I decided to do a beep test, only my 2 fronts give out signal and no other channels.
> 
> 
> I do have firmware 1.34 running but was wondering if it could a firmware issue and maybe downgrade to 1.33 firmware.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?






If you have a D2v, you must have at least firmware 2.00. Are you sure it isn't a D2?

John


----------



## alexg75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/15835187
> 
> 
> In that case, Marc is the most friendly and down to earth person I have met!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously though, Marc's contributions on this forum are greatly appreciated, and he is certainly very generous, easy to talk to, and fun to hang out with......especially when he is at work!!




I could not agree with you more......


And Big Tex,Marc is also very modest about his mixes,so I will also recommend in addition to the titles Marc mentioned,Never Back Down and We Were Soldiers on BR.

For demo purposes try the final fight scenes in Never Back Down and ch.15 of We Were Soldiers.....and these two films would not fall into the kid-friendly category







.


----------



## slots1

Bob

May I ask you why you bought a new D2v rather then wait to upgrade your D2? I am patiently waiting for them to announce that I can send it in.

Gerry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15838289
> 
> 
> Bob....I think I have reason to celebrate....I think...
> 
> 
> I ran ARC 2.1 and here are the new results. I've attached the old 1.25 and the new 2.1 charts. It appears the surrounds have made an improvement.
> 
> 
> I think it's due to ARC 2.1. When I ran 2.1 at 5000 target, the surround tanked at 5k hz. So I reran it at 15k and 20k. I've attached the 20k before and after. I took the before 20k results a week ago and here are today's new ARC 2.1 results.
> 
> 
> Does it look better?
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!!!



Well! You've made a tremendous amount of progress here, and what you have now should be sounding very good indeed.


The worst of your problems are behind you and now we are dealing with refinements.


First, your pair of subs is definitely going deep enough. Good. Now that dip at 80Hz (red Measured curve) looks suspiciously like a phase cancellation problem between the two of them. This is not certain because you've got room response dips in some of the other speakers near 100Hz as well, so this may must be the way your two subs are coupling to the room.


What I would suggest is that you re-read the instructions (post links in the first post of this thread) for how to set Polarity and Phase in each of your two subs to best match each sub to the LF speaker. If you are confident you have done it right, then fine -- it's just a room issue and ARC has corrected it. If you see something you missed, redo the polarity/phase adjustment on each sub prior to your next ARC Measurement pass and I think you'll get an even cleaner sub solution.


If it is not your phase setting then the next logical step is to look at "room treatments" -- these are things like "bass traps" that reduce the reflections in the room that lead to room modes that boost or cancel at various lower frequencies. It's all about how your speakers couple to the room. It is likely that some room treatment could clean up some of the lower frequency dips you have in the other speakers. For example a corner trap in the corner behind your RF speaker might clean up that dip at 150Hz. ARC has corrected most of that so you really only need to improve it a little bit and ARC can take it from there.


Other than that little dip at 150Hz in RF, ARC has your LF/RF speakers well in hand. And the residual error in RF is small enough that you could probably just as easily ignore it.


For your surrounds: LS is in good shape. The residual error at high frequencies is small enough to ignore. I'd probably say the same about LR given where you are coming from. RS and RR both have more residual error at high frequencies than would be ideal. But given the nature of your installation I'd be sorely tempted to declare victory in the high frequencies!


Lastly, ARC has decided your room has very little "natural" Room Gain -- the hump in the Target curves near the crossovers. You might want to try forcing some Room Gain in the Targets window. Try 2.5dB. But keep an eye on the residual error in your Center speaker around 100Hz. If that error creeps up closer to 5dB you'll need to either back out the Room Gain or try to change how your Center speaker is coupling to the room -- move it in or out a few inches from the wall behind it, raise it a few inches higher from the surface under it, or consider bass trap treatments.


Again, these are refinements of a result which is already vastly superior to your uncorrected room. The real test here is to Upload and do some listening!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FranceHibbi* /forum/post/15838506
> 
> 
> Hey Guys!
> 
> 
> Im new here so please be easy on the new guy. I am having an issue with my Anthem D2v. I have it setup for 7.1 but for some odd reason 1 rear channel doesnt work. First thing i thought was it could be the channel itself. So i decided to try differenent channels to see, but seems like the 7th channel always ends up soundless. So I decided to do a beep test, only my 2 fronts give out signal and no other channels.
> 
> 
> I do have firmware 1.34 running but was wondering if it could a firmware issue and maybe downgrade to 1.33 firmware.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?



First of all, welcome to the cool kids thread!


Now, what firmware are you running? There is no V1.34 firmware. Firmware for the D2v has a number like V2.02. The firmware for the older D2 and AVM 50 units is V1.33. The V1.33 firmware will not work on the new D2v hardware.


To see the firmware version, press Select once on the remote. The firmware version will come up in the first set of info displayed.


The most common reason for only getting output from one of the Rear speakers is that you have mistakenly told Setup > Speaker Configuration that you only have 1 Rear speaker -- a 6.1 speaker configuration instead of 7.1.


Unfortunately the firmware versions prior to the current "test" version (V2.02c) have a couple bugs in the Setup > Level Calibration menu that make it a bit difficult to use the internal test tones to verify proper speaker setup. What you need to do is set the first line (test mode) to Auto, then press Select on the remote and the Anthem will cycle through the speakers. There is a bug that the Center speaker will only produce the test tone the first time around.


So start by checking Setup > Speaker Configuration to make sure you have your Rears identified as either Dipole-7.1 or Direct-7.1 according to which type of speaker you are using back there.


An easy way to check for speaker function is to play some stereo content (e.g., a CD) and select Stereo All audio mode -- press Mode on the remote and then use the Up/Down arrow keys to cycle through the available modes. Stereo All sends the LF/RF content to the Side and Rear Surround speakers as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/15839050
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> May I ask you why you bought a new D2v rather then wait to upgrade your D2? I am patiently waiting for them to announce that I can send it in.
> 
> Gerry



I'm sorry, but I'm going to decline to answer that. That's just me. I don't talk about the who, how, why, or how much of such changes in my system, even in PMs. It's an old habit.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15813805
> 
> *It's a D2v !!*
> 
> 
> Well, after that fire drill above, I have some MUCH more pleasant news to report:
> 
> 
> We here at "Bob Pariseau" are delighted to announce the safe delivery of a bouncing baby D2v! Weighing 27 lbs, no ounces (unpacked), both owner and D2v are doing fine!
> 
> 
> We intend to home school our D2v with new software this evening.
> 
> 
> Gee, I hope it doesn't get cranky if we keep it up all night!
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Meanwhile our beloved D2, which has given us many years of faithful service, has been put out to well deserved stud. We wish it long and happy life in its new role.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - I thought that you weren't going to get the D2v??? What ultimately convinced you to pull the trigger?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15839353
> 
> 
> Bob - I thought that you weren't going to get the D2v??? What ultimately convinced you to pull the trigger?



Please see the post just above yours.

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15839055
> 
> 
> Well! You've made a tremendous amount of progress here, and what you have now should be sounding very good indeed.
> 
> 
> The worst of your problems are behind you and now we are dealing with refinements.
> 
> 
> First, your pair of subs is definitely going deep enough. Good. Now that dip at 80Hz (red Measured curve) looks suspiciously like a phase cancellation problem between the two of them. This is not certain because you've got room response dips in some of the other speakers near 100Hz as well, so this may must be the way your two subs are coupling to the room.
> 
> 
> What I would suggest is that you re-read the instructions (post links in the first post of this thread) for how to set Polarity and Phase in each of your two subs to best match each sub to the LF speaker. If you are confident you have done it right, then fine -- it's just a room issue and ARC has corrected it. If you see something you missed, redo the polarity/phase adjustment on each sub prior to your next ARC Measurement pass and I think you'll get an even cleaner sub solution.
> 
> 
> If it is not your phase setting then the next logical step is to look at "room treatments" -- these are things like "bass traps" that reduce the reflections in the room that lead to room modes that boost or cancel at various lower frequencies. It's all about how your speakers couple to the room. It is likely that some room treatment could clean up some of the lower frequency dips you have in the other speakers. For example a corner trap in the corner behind your RF speaker might clean up that dip at 150Hz. ARC has corrected most of that so you really only need to improve it a little bit and ARC can take it from there.
> 
> 
> Other than that little dip at 150Hz in RF, ARC has your LF/RF speakers well in hand. And the residual error in RF is small enough that you could probably just as easily ignore it.
> 
> 
> For your surrounds: LS is in good shape. The residual error at high frequencies is small enough to ignore. I'd probably say the same about LR given where you are coming from. RS and RR both have more residual error at high frequencies than would be ideal. But given the nature of your installation I'd be sorely tempted to declare victory in the high frequencies!
> 
> 
> Lastly, ARC has decided your room has very little "natural" Room Gain -- the hump in the Target curves near the crossovers. You might want to try forcing some Room Gain in the Targets window. Try 2.5dB. But keep an eye on the residual error in your Center speaker around 100Hz. If that error creeps up closer to 5dB you'll need to either back out the Room Gain or try to change how your Center speaker is coupling to the room -- move it in or out a few inches from the wall behind it, raise it a few inches higher from the surface under it, or consider bass trap treatments.
> 
> 
> Again, these are refinements of a result which is already vastly superior to your uncorrected room. The real test here is to Upload and do some listening!
> 
> --Bob





Bob,


Thanks for the help as ALWAYS. I actually ran two sweeps. One with both subs at phase 0 and one with the front sub at Phase 0 and the rear at Phase 180. I've included both sets of numbers to compare. Please let me know what you think. I'm anxious to see what you see. I really appreciate you pointing out that both subs at phase 0 is canceling each other out. I've confirmed it over the past hour just listening to them.


It's silly...I went and got the Video Essentials disc and used a SPL meter this afternoon. I couldn't see a difference in the SPL meter or I don't know how to properly use it. Probably the latter... Anyhow I then went for the "listening" test. I thought the subs sounded better when both were in Phase 0. This didn't make any sense logically but I thought it sounded better. In reality it didn't "sound" better, it was just louder.


Now fast forward. I've uploaded to the AVM the ARC calculations with all subs at phase 0 and it sound nasty! It sounded much better when I had manually tuned the back sub to phase 180. So in short you're RIGHT ON...I tried to use my untrained ears and goofed. Please tell me that the second set of charts (different sub phases) looks normal because everything else sounds GREAT. The 2nd set of charts is with the subs at different phases.


We've come a long way. I appreciate all your help!!! Now I just need to get these subs dialed in. I will say my optiomal sub configuration was when I ran ARC the other day with only one sub turned on, I then uploaded the ARC results into the AVM, turned on the 2nd sub and manually tuned the 2nd sub into the system thus bypassing it in ARC. I had the front sub at phase 0 and the back at phase 180. I am about to load the latest ARC results that had the subs in opposite phases so hopefully I'll get the same results I had from my install when the subs were working.


Thanks!!!!!!!!


PS. What is room gain? What does it do? I'm about to add some now. Thanks!!!!


----------



## Big Tex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15839055
> 
> 
> Well!
> 
> 
> Lastly, ARC has decided your room has very little "natural" Room Gain -- the hump in the Target curves near the crossovers. You might want to try forcing some Room Gain in the Targets window. Try 2.5dB. But keep an eye on the residual error in your Center speaker around 100Hz. If that error creeps up closer to 5dB you'll need to either back out the Room Gain or try to change how your Center speaker is coupling to the room -- move it in or out a few inches from the wall behind it, raise it a few inches higher from the surface under it, or consider bass trap treatments.
> 
> 
> Again, these are refinements of a result which is already vastly superior to your uncorrected room. The real test here is to Upload and do some listening!
> 
> --Bob




I'm in the target window now, it shows my room gain as 0.258642. So to add 2.5%, would I need to make the number look like 2.50000 in the target gain white box? Is that the proper way to use the decimal or would it be .0250000?


Thanks!!!! I'm so thrilled we're making progress.


----------



## Big Tex

ARC Upgrade question. When I upgrade to a new version of ARC, can I go back and rerun old sweeps. I.E. run a sweep I did with 1.25 and see if 2.1 makes a difference? If yes does the new ARC software make new adjustments or am I better off doing a new sweep every time I upgrade to a new version of ARC?


Thanks!!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15839749
> 
> 
> I'm in the target window now, it shows my room gain as 0.258642. So to add 2.5%, would I need to make the number look like 2.50000 in the target gain white box? Is that the proper way to use the decimal or would it be .0250000?
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!! I'm so thrilled we're making progress.



The Room Gain values in the Targets window (there's one for Movie and one for Music) are in dB. So to force a room gain of 2.5 dB you would enter "2.5" into both of those fields and leave the "force" box checked.


You'll see the result as a slight hump in the Target curves in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies. The peak of that hump will be 2.5 dB above your "basic volume level" -- which again is the flat part of the Target curves to the right of the crossover frequencies. Pretty simple, eh?


Room Gain is a "desirable" room response characteristic. Normally ARC detects the natural Room Gain of your room and preserves it even as ARC is eliminating all the undesirable room response characteristics. You may have a very flat room, but I suspect ARC is defaulting to a low Room Gain due to some of the other problems you've got in speaker response. So give it a nudge up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15839903
> 
> 
> ARC Upgrade question. When I upgrade to a new version of ARC, can I go back and rerun old sweeps. I.E. run a sweep I did with 1.25 and see if 2.1 makes a difference? If yes does the new ARC software make new adjustments or am I better off doing a new sweep every time I upgrade to a new version of ARC?
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!!!



Some changes to ARC will work with old Measurements. Some require new Measurements. Read the text file that comes with each upgrade for clues.


Personally, although I may use old Measurements with a new ARC for a quick check, I always plan to take the time to do a new set of Measurement before settling for any given version of ARC for the long term.


I do this, if for no other reason than 2 months from now I'm likely to forget whether I took new Measurements or not for my current ARC setup. It's better for me to just do it each time and then I don't have to strain my memory.


If you decide to use old Measurements, I strongly suggest you make a copy of your old file and do the job in the copy. ARC writes into the file and so the resulting file won't be the same as what the prior ARC made for you -- which means its harder to go back if you ever want to.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15839687
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help as ALWAYS. I actually ran two sweeps. One with both subs at phase 0 and one with the front sub at Phase 0 and the rear at Phase 180. I've included both sets of numbers to compare. Please let me know what you think. I'm anxious to see what you see. I really appreciate you pointing out that both subs at phase 0 is canceling each other out. I've confirmed it over the past hour just listening to them.
> 
> 
> It's silly...I went and got the Video Essentials disc and used a SPL meter this afternoon. I couldn't see a difference in the SPL meter or I don't know how to properly use it. Probably the latter... Anyhow I then went for the "listening" test. I thought the subs sounded better when both were in Phase 0. This didn't make any sense logically but I thought it sounded better. In reality it didn't "sound" better, it was just louder.
> 
> 
> Now fast forward. I've uploaded to the AVM the ARC calculations with all subs at phase 0 and it sound nasty! It sounded much better when I had manually tuned the back sub to phase 180. So in short you're RIGHT ON...I tried to use my untrained ears and goofed. Please tell me that the second set of charts (different sub phases) looks normal because everything else sounds GREAT. The 2nd set of charts is with the subs at different phases.
> 
> 
> We've come a long way. I appreciate all your help!!! Now I just need to get these subs dialed in. I will say my optiomal sub configuration was when I ran ARC the other day with only one sub turned on, I then uploaded the ARC results into the AVM, turned on the 2nd sub and manually tuned the 2nd sub into the system thus bypassing it in ARC. I had the front sub at phase 0 and the back at phase 180. I am about to load the latest ARC results that had the subs in opposite phases so hopefully I'll get the same results I had from my install when the subs were working.
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> PS. What is room gain? What does it do? I'm about to add some now. Thanks!!!!



Of these two sets of charts, your combo with Phase shifted 180 has a somewhat better result for the subs. The other speakers still look the same of course.


One thing you may not be aware of is that the effect of the "Phase" control is usually limited to the region around the crossover frequency. It is used to fine tune the sub's phase to match that of the main speakers near the crossover (using the Left Front speaker as a surrogate for all the main speakers).


So shifting phase 180 degrees does not reverse one sub vs. the other over the whole bass frequency range -- only near the crossovers.


There is another control called Polarity. It has the effect of swapping the speaker wire driving that sub -- which means it swings things around 180 degrees across the entire bass frequency range.


Typically if you have one sub in the front of the room and one in the back (as you have done), you would set the one in front to "normal" polarity, and the one in back to the opposite polarity.


Then you use the Phase control on each sub to refine the Phase of that sub when played in combo with the Left Front speaker -- using the phase calibration test tones from a calibration DVD.


Do you follow? Phase 180 degrees around is not the same as inverting Polarity. Phase operates over a limited range of frequencies. Think of which direction the speaker cone is moving. The speaker in the rear of the room is turned around compared to the one in the front which is why you typically start with the two subs at opposite polarities so that both cones are moving in the same direction. Then you use Phase to refine that around the crossover frequencies.


Personally I think this is better done by ear than with the SPL meter. Basically what you are listening for is the phase setting that gives the most output when the sub and LF are playing that Pink Noise test tone together. If the sub is out of phase with the LF then the portions of the test tone near the crossover will cancel out since it is coming out of both the sub and the LF at the same time. That leaves just the lower frequencies of bass below the crossover. So another way to think of this is you want the phase setting that seems to give you the most HIGHER FREQUENCY sounds from that pink noise test tone.


OK so you set the front sub to "normal" polarity and then adjust it's phase as described to best match LF. Then you power it down and switch to the rear sub. Set it to the opposite polarity and then adjust its Phase as well to work best with LF. When both subs are matched in phase to LF then they are also matched in phase to each other.


Done this way (the two subs using opposite Polarity) you may find that the best Phase settings for the two of them are even the same Phase. More likely you will find it is some random difference of Phase -- not 0 and not 180. Why? Because the proper Phase is also a function of the distance of the sub from the LF speaker and of course that's quite different for your two subs.


Using opposite Polarity -- which completely reverses one sub with respect to the other -- is not affected the same way because of course sub 1 is the same distance from sub 2 as sub 2 is from sub 1. Make sense?


It is easiest to do phase adjustment if you have previously done the volume setting exercise I told you about with the noise level in the Setup menu and the volume controls on each sub. That will result in the LF and sub each putting out about the same volume of this pink noise phase test tone.


The difference between in phase and out of phase is subtle so take your time. When you think you have a candidate Phase setting, try swinging phase 180 around from that. If you had a good candidate Phase, then 180 degrees around from that will be the worst Phase. Can you hear the difference in the higher frequencies of that Pink Noise test tone? The good Phase setting should have more higher frequencies in that hiss. It's not very much so listen carefully and, again take your time. Go back and forth a few times to train your ears for this maximum amount of change.


Now go back to your candidate proper Phase setting. Shift off it to one side and sneak up on it until you think it is right again. Then shift off to the other side and sneak up on it again. Compare you two results and split the difference if they are not the same. That's how you refine your idea of the "best" Phase setting. With a little practice you'll get the hang of it.


Another tip: When playing the Pink Noise phase adjustment test tone from the calibration DVD, adjust the main volume on the Anthem so that the Pink Noise measures about 70 to 75dB SPL. That's loud enough for you to hear the subtle difference between in phase and out of phase without being so loud that it gets too tiring to listen to it long enough to make a good adjustment.

--Bob


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/15736078
> 
> 
> Used the default process settings, which I believe is 5K. Will experiment further including speaker/sub positioning due to room anomalies that showed up in the response graphs.



I moved the sub around, and remeasured this weekend for movie and music configurations. The 5K frequency calculation sounded pretty good. When I moved it out to 20K, I could not believe how much smoother everything sounded: more air, subtle instrumentations revealed, more space between instruments, instruments very well placed in the soundstage. Still have an issue with sub performance, but is likely due to more than one issue(small size and placement). I'm sticking with 20K going forward.


Someone in an earlier post mentioned the value of running a Music config for 2 (.1) channel stereo. Up until today I thought 5.1 was good enough, but I was wrong and am now a believer.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Jayray,

I've confirmed my issue of 7.1 channel input down mixed to 5.1 speaker output for "test" firmware V2.02c(13feb) using "Hellboy II" Blu-Ray.


I can hear it in Chapter 1 in Father's voice narration of the story and in particular in the metallic sound effects in the Center speaker when the king is crowned with the golden crown (around the 4:00 mark) and when the crown is separated into pieces (around the 5:00 mark).


But I can hear it even more in the training scene that begins Chapter 2. Particularly in the naturalness of the sounds of his breathing and his footfalls as he runs around.


When the PS3 is set to 5.1 output these sounds are much more airy and in the open. You can hear the ambience of the space he's in. When the PS3 is set to 7.1 output these sounds are more "in a box".


I attribute this to the significant amount of high frequency correction ARC is adding for my Center speaker combined with the theory that the bug with 7.1 input (when down-mixing to 5.1 speaker output) is that ARC correction is not actually being applied to that Center speaker.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15838047
> 
> 
> LFE starts rolling in around 125Hz, but both the roll in of LFE and the effect of a crossover are gradual. Generally you've got another octave.
> 
> 
> But keep in mind that the "CLX" crossover you are referring to is the transition between the main drivers and the satellite sub in your combo speaker. Presumably the pre-defined "CLX" value is what they consider the optimum transition point. So any LFE higher than that frequency isn't going to get lost. It will simply be handled by the main drivers of the combo speaker just as the manufacturer intended.
> 
> 
> The separate LFE input on your satellite subs is for all those lesser pre-pros out there that aren't as smart as the Anthem. I.e., pre-pros that don't steer LFE into the main LF/RF output channels when you have no sub configured.
> 
> 
> ARC will send all the right amount of LFE to the LF/RF speakers -- mixed of course with the bass coming in on those channels already. Your combo speakers will reproduce some of that in their main drivers and some in the satellite sub.
> 
> 
> You'll see from the red Measured curves in ARC just how well that is working. Normal deviations will be corrected by ARC. Since your speaker maker has thought to hand you default setup settings for including these satellite subs the odds are there will be no mistakes in their setup you will need to address.
> 
> --Bob



Great! Now I can begin to enjoy my newly spent hard-earned $ as intended.

On reflection, it was a silly query. Of course, the CLX will be handling what the sub 'discards' with its Low Pass setting, whichever frequency chosen. Duh










My profound thanks again, Bob, for making it sound so elementary.

Ben


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/15836761
> 
> 
> If the dubbing stages mix in 7.1 or more, will it be advantageous enough to make a genuine sound improvement into our homes, through blu-ray?
> 
> 
> Bob



Everything is relative, but for the AVS enthusiast, I'd say definitely yes, if executed well. Did I leave enough wiggle room there?


----------



## Lordoftherings

Oh yes, lots of room to play with! And that was also my thought regarding good transfer to

Blu-Ray in 7.1 straight from the master. (Or 9.1 if & when coming!)


Bob


P.S. The theory of Relativity ---> by Einstein.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15837133
> 
> 
> What be said. We aren't mixing in 7.1.
> 
> 
> I am working with a company right now that has a theatrical 384.8 system and technology
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> 
> 384 discrete channels and speakers. 8 discrete LFE.
> 
> 
> Were hoping to mix a film in the format this year.
> 
> 
> Next time you're down here I'll take you for a listen if you haven't already heard it.



Sounds like Wave Field Synthesis over at Mann's Chinese. I'd love to hear it someday.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15840340
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> I've confirmed my issue of 7.1 channel input down mixed to 5.1 speaker output for "test" firmware V2.02c(13feb) using "Hellboy II" Blu-Ray.
> 
> 
> I can hear it in Chapter 1 in Father's voice narration of the story and in particular in the metallic sound effects in the Center speaker when the king is crowned with the golden crown (around the 4:00 mark) and when the crown is separated into pieces (around the 5:00 mark).
> 
> 
> But I can hear it even more in the training scene that begins Chapter 2. Particularly in the naturalness of the sounds of his breathing and his footfalls as he runs around.
> 
> 
> When the PS3 is set to 5.1 output these sounds are much more airy and in the open. You can hear the ambience of the space he's in. When the PS3 is set to 7.1 output these sounds are more "in a box".
> 
> 
> I attribute this to the significant amount of high frequency correction ARC is adding for my Center speaker combined with the theory that the bug with 7.1 input (when down-mixing to 5.1 speaker output) is that ARC correction is not actually being applied to that Center speaker.
> 
> --Bob



I can check it out later on mine if you'd like.

John


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15838560
> 
> 
> Thanks, works like a charm.
> 
> 
> And what's very nice is it's smart enough not to do another HDMI handshake, so the "toggle" is very fast.



Okay, on my way to work this morning, I was thinking about this cropping thing.


I setup a toggle on my remote server, so one button on my remote toggles between TV1 and TV2, to go LB/non-LB cropping. I tested with a 1080i show, but I think that's it.


My question is - Is the cropping range based on the output resolution, or input resolution? So do I need to set up different inputs to crop for 480i/p, 720p, and 1080i/p? Or does the crop take effect *after* the upscaling?


If the latter (I think it is the latter), does that mean this crop will work on 480i content, even though the D2v is adding the sidebars? So are the sidebars part of the overall image it's cropping?


I'm asking because I'd like to be able to use the same toggle for all content, including 480i LB content that the D2v adds sidebars to. And I'd like to avoid consuming yet another virtual input just to crop 480i content.


Does this all make sense? I know I could just test, but I won't be able to for hours, and I can't get this out of my head!


Thanks,

-Mark


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Here are a few issues I have found:


In the setup menu #5 Level Calibration using the manual test tones I get no sound out of right front speaker, yet when using auto I do.


I am using 2 displays a Sony 60A3000 TV and a Sony VPL VW-50 Projector. I cannot get the Video Editor to display when playing sources thru my projector.


The last thing, although not real bad, is the handshake time when switching between sources, especially my Tivo Series 3.


I have also emailed these to Nick.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15842413
> 
> 
> Here are a few issues I have found:
> 
> 
> In the setup menu #5 Level Calibration using the manual test tones I get no sound out of right front speaker, yet when using auto I do.
> 
> 
> I am using 2 displays a Sony 60A3000 TV and a Sony VPL VW-50 Projector. I cannot get the Video Editor to display when playing sources thru my projector.
> 
> 
> The last thing, although not real bad, is the handshake time when switching between sources, especially my Tivo Series 3.
> 
> 
> I have also emailed these to Nick.



Bill.. if you look back a couple of pages you'll see the tone issue is being addressed.


I think the handshake time, Bob mentioned, will not be able to be "fixed.." It seems it's a feature of the new video solution.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15841444
> 
> 
> Okay, on my way to work this morning, I was thinking about this cropping thing.
> 
> 
> I setup a toggle on my remote server, so one button on my remote toggles between TV1 and TV2, to go LB/non-LB cropping. I tested with a 1080i show, but I think that's it.
> 
> 
> My question is - Is the cropping range based on the output resolution, or input resolution? So do I need to set up different inputs to crop for 480i/p, 720p, and 1080i/p? Or does the crop take effect *after* the upscaling?
> 
> 
> If the latter (I think it is the latter), does that mean this crop will work on 480i content, even though the D2v is adding the sidebars? So are the sidebars part of the overall image it's cropping?
> 
> 
> I'm asking because I'd like to be able to use the same toggle for all content, including 480i LB content that the D2v adds sidebars to. And I'd like to avoid consuming yet another virtual input just to crop 480i content.
> 
> 
> Does this all make sense? I know I could just test, but I won't be able to for hours, and I can't get this out of my head!
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Mark



The values used for vertical and horizontal cropping, and the centering of that crop within the input image, are based on the 1920x1080p version of the video that the Anthem uses for all its internal processing. Which means you can define one crop and it will extract the same percentage and location out of the input video regardless of the input video resolution. The crop is also entirely independent of the output video resolution you have chosen. The Scale Out setting determines how the shape you have cropped out of the input gets stretched or padded to match the shape of your defined Video Output configuration. Scaling then converts the resolution to complete the task.


It's a little more complicated because SD video pixels are not square and the same pixels will get interpreted as having two different widths according to whether the input SD video is flagged as 4:3 content or 16:9 content (as from an SD-DVD player). Examples of the math are shown in the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling links in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15842413
> 
> 
> Here are a few issues I have found:
> 
> 
> In the setup menu #5 Level Calibration using the manual test tones I get no sound out of right front speaker, yet when using auto I do.
> 
> 
> I am using 2 displays a Sony 60A3000 TV and a Sony VPL VW-50 Projector. I cannot get the Video Editor to display when playing sources thru my projector.
> 
> 
> The last thing, although not real bad, is the handshake time when switching between sources, especially my Tivo Series 3.
> 
> 
> I have also emailed these to Nick.



There are several bugs in the Setup > Level Calibration menu that I believe are fixed in the "test" firmware V2.02c(13feb) for the D2v and AVM 50v. I haven't actually tried the Level Calibration menu with this firmware yet so I'm not sure it all works correctly now.


This "test" firmware is only available at the moment from Anthem's password protected download page. Anthem tech support can get you access if they feel testing has progressed enough for this to be safe.


----------------------------------------


There is evidently still some more work for Anthem to do on the new HDMI code for the D2v, but I suspect the slower handshake will likely remain -- a result of the more elaborate process needed to support two HDMI outputs and, likely, the stricter protocols imposed by HDMI V1.3c.


----------------------------------------


I'm not sure what you mean by the "Video Editor" here. Do you mean the Video Source Adjust menu (accessed by pressing and holding the "7" key)? If so, that's a new bug. Please do get details to Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15842413
> 
> 
> Here are a few issues I have found:
> 
> 
> In the setup menu #5 Level Calibration using the manual test tones I get no sound out of right front speaker, yet when using auto I do.
> 
> 
> I am using 2 displays a Sony 60A3000 TV and a Sony VPL VW-50 Projector. I cannot get the Video Editor to display when playing sources thru my projector.
> 
> 
> The last thing, although not real bad, is the handshake time when switching between sources, especially my Tivo Series 3.
> 
> 
> I have also emailed these to Nick.



Bill, Nick advised me that the handshaking is slower with the HDMI 1.3c chips and that there is no fix for it. The handshaking on my old D2 was much faster with my Tivo Series 3, than it is now. Just something I (& you) will need to get accustomed to.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15840937
> 
> 
> I can check it out later on mine if you'd like.
> 
> John



Please do. If I'm right you won't hear exactly what I hear because the correction of your Center is almost certainly different from the correction of my Center.


But it would be nice to get confirmation that at least one other user can hear this problem.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15842784
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean by the "Video Editor" here. Do you mean the Video Source Adjust menu (accessed by pressing and holding the "7" key)? If so, that's a new bug. Please do get details to Anthem tech support.
> 
> --Bob



Yes I did mean the Video Source Adjust menu. What is confusing is it works for all sources on my TV but not on my projector.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15843825
> 
> 
> Yes I did mean the Video Source Adjust menu. What is confusing is it works for all sources on my TV but not on my projector.



The video processor chip in the D2v and AVM 50v has two separate video processing paths. Even though the two HDMI outputs can only carry the same output signal (in the current firmware), the two halves of the VXP chip are still used.


The Video Source Adjust menu is generated by the VXP chip and overlayed on top of the video stream being processed. Apparently that is only functioning for one of the two paths through the chip.


It's a bug.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OK, I just tried the Setup > Level Calibration menu in the "test" V2.02c(13feb) firmware and the nasty new bugs introduced in the V2.xx firmware have indeed been fixed.


However there are a couple long standing old bugs that were first spotted in the firmware for the D2 and AVM 50 that are still in this latest firmware for the new hardware. They are:


1) When using Auto test mode, the Center speaker only produces output the first time around. This may be related to having a Music speaker configuration that does not include the Center speaker -- I'm not sure of that.


2) The output produced by the "Test Level" line (labeled "Noise Level" in the V1.33 firmware) is altered by the current setting of the Left Front speaker line. That means if you want to measure Test Level to achieve some particular target level you need to first zero out the Left Front line. After setting Test Level you can then restore the value in the Left Front line as necessary.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I heard back from Nick:


Hi Bill,


The menu 5 tones need fixing - known issue - although if running ARC the most that's needed from the menu 5 is a test level adjustment in there's too much background noise.


The on-screen display (I assume this is what you're referring to) only works through HDMI 1 output, no graphics besides setup menu through HDMI 2 output.


Handshake time is as fast as we could make it. There may be room for improvement but the split output complicates things.


Best Regards,

Nick P., Technical Support


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15844036
> 
> 
> I heard back from Nick:
> 
> 
> Hi Bill,
> 
> 
> The menu 5 tones need fixing - known issue - although if running ARC the most that's needed from the menu 5 is a test level adjustment in there's too much background noise.
> 
> 
> The on-screen display (I assume this is what you're referring to) only works through HDMI 1 output, no graphics besides setup menu through HDMI 2 output.
> 
> 
> Handshake time is as fast as we could make it. There may be room for improvement but the split output complicates things.
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Nick P., Technical Support



Maybe, Anthem can offer one variation of the firmware for those of us who are not using the split output and one for those using the split output.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15844036
> 
> 
> I heard back from Nick:
> 
> 
> Hi Bill,The on-screen display (I assume this is what you're referring to) only works through HDMI 1 output, no graphics besides setup menu through HDMI 2 output.



They'll have to fix this for the Video Source Adjust menu if they ever do offer the ability to put out different video on the two HDMI outputs.


But it sounds like Nick is saying that you can't even get the on-screen volume, mode, and Select info displays out of HDMI 2. Is that correct?


ETA: I can't find anything in the latest D2v Manual that suggests "on-screen display" limitations for the HDMI 2 output.

--Bob


----------



## shawnboston




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15844036
> 
> 
> I heard back from Nick:
> 
> 
> Hi Bill,
> 
> 
> The menu 5 tones need fixing - known issue - although if running ARC the most that's needed from the menu 5 is a test level adjustment in there's too much background noise.
> 
> 
> The on-screen display (I assume this is what you're referring to) only works through HDMI 1 output, no graphics besides setup menu through HDMI 2 output.



Hi All, I have the same problem and have a call into Anthem TS but I suspect this is not just limited to HDMI 2 because I am only using HDMI 1. I also had a variant of the tone problem but it went away after I reloaded the factory defaults and then re-loading my user settings . . . if I remember correctly, the system had somehow deleted a speaker from my set-up and the problem went away once I told the system that I did indeed have both a FR and FL speaker.


I'm hoping to get access to the password protected site later today to see if the new firmware fixes some of my remaining issues (black/gray levels, etc.).


Shawn


----------



## zr123

Just a small pet peeve...


It's *Blu-ray* and NOT BlueRay or Blue-Ray or Blue Ray.

*B*lu-ray *D*isc = *BD* not BR!


Full name = Blu-ray Disc

Most common street name = Blu-ray

Abbreviation = BD


Okay... I feel better now


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If the inability to get the Video Source Adjust menu output on HDMI 2 proves to be a long term thing, it will complicate video setup for folks.


You'll need to temporarily plug the display you intend to use on HDMI 2 into HDMI 1 to bring up the Video Source Adjust > Patterns internally generated test charts so you can properly set the video levels on that display. Then you'll need to move it back to HDMI 2 and repeat the process with the display you want to use on HDMI 1.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick at Anthem tells me that they were able to run with the info I provided on the YCbCr gray scale bug (still present in the V2.02c(13feb) "test" firmware) and found the culprit.


The bug in YCbCr handshaking arises when Extended RGB is enabled in the Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space menu for that input device.


He says they have the fix in place but it will take a few more days before it is out as a new test version pending other bug fixes.


My cookie tastes even sweeter now!










--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15844150
> 
> 
> They'll have to fix this for the Video Source Adjust menu if they ever do offer the ability to put out different video on the two HDMI outputs.
> 
> 
> But it sounds like Nick is saying that you can't even get the on-screen volume, mode, and Select info displays out of HDMI 2. Is that correct?
> 
> 
> ETA: I can't find anything in the latest D2v Manual that suggests "on-screen display" limitations for the HDMI 2 output.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15844457
> 
> 
> If the inability to get the Video Source Adjust menu output on HDMI 2 proves to be a long term thing, it will complicate video setup for folks.
> 
> 
> You'll need to temporarily plug the display you intend to use on HDMI 2 into HDMI 1 to bring up the Video Source Adjust > Patterns internally generated test charts so you can properly set the video levels on that display. Then you'll need to move it back to HDMI 2 and repeat the process with the display you want to use on HDMI 1.
> 
> --Bob



You are correct on both, no on-screen volume, mode and you would need to use HDMI 1 for Video Source Adjust. That's kind of a pain but you won't be doing this often.








]


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm quite surprised the on-screen volume stuff doesn't make it to HDMI 2. I would presume the output of that character generator gets added in before the two paths split up in the VXP, but I guess not.


For folks using HDMI 2 in a theater, a workaround would be to run S-video output to a small LCD display. I believe that will get you the on-screen volume (and similar info) as well as the Setup menu. But I don't think it will get you the Video Source Adjust menu.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

Hi Guys, finally it's arrived and I'm sitting on the floor suurounded by boxes and cables trying to get a basic setup going.....with a few issues. I'd really appreciate any advice.


I have two displays setup. One is an HDMI connected flat panel which is getting a lovely crisp picture but no sound.


The other is a projector with component only inputs. This is my main trouble. When I change from DVD source (PS3) to TV Source (Comcast/Motorola) I get a picture on the PJ for 2 or 3 seconds then it disappears and the PJ reports 'no input'.


I have the Video Output 1 set to component and both DVD and TV set to use video output 1.


I can see the Video Source Adjust menu on the plasma but not on the TV.


I have the manual in front of me, the forums in front of me and I'm scratching my head......


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15845877
> 
> 
> Hi Guys, finally it's arrived and I'm sitting on the floor suurounded by boxes and cables trying to get a basic setup going.....with a few issues. I'd really appreciate any advice.
> 
> 
> I have two displays setup. One is an HDMI connected flat panel which is getting a lovely crisp picture but no sound.
> 
> 
> The other is a projector with component only inputs. This is my main trouble. When I change from DVD source (PS3) to TV Source (Comcast/Motorola) I get a picture on the PJ for 2 or 3 seconds then it disappears and the PJ reports 'no input'.
> 
> 
> I have the Video Output 1 set to component and both DVD and TV set to use video output 1.
> 
> 
> I can see the Video Source Adjust menu on the plasma but not on the TV.
> 
> 
> I have the manual in front of me, the forums in front of me and I'm scratching my head......



If you are using HDMI input from the Comcast, then that's likely your problem. HDMI copy protection keeps the Anthem from converting protected HDMI input to Component output. See Section 2.1 of the Manual.


Hook up Component from the Comcast instead. You can still use HDMI output to your flat panel.


I'm afraid you are going to have the same problem when playing Blu-Ray discs on the PS3. Its HDMI output will be protected for high def content which means the Anthem can't convert it to Component. The Anthem can convert SD-DVD HDMI input content to Component but the output will be limited to 480p. Again this is due to copy protection imposed by the studios.


------------------------------------------


Audio output on the HDMI outputs is a 2-channel stereo down mix of whatever audio is being processed in the Main path (2 channel LPCM). If you are trying to use the speakers built into your flat panel, then double check that you have the flat panel set to expect audio input on the HDMI cable.

--Bob


----------



## Big Tex

Bob,


Once again...thanks for your thoughtful and detailed analysis of EVERYTHING. I continue to be amazed at how much you know about this crap. It blows me away...


So here's a summary of the last 24 hours. Some great news, some not so good news. My wife thinks I'm NUTS and have major OCD which is true.


I ran new sweeps and implemented ARC 2.0.1 which like a fool I refer to as 2.1 because I can't count. I uploaded 4 different ARC calculations and listened to them all.


Great news. The surrounds sound AMAZING in 2.1. I was SHOCKED at how much better they sounded. I have to be honest. Up till last night I've been very disappointed with ARC considering how much time, money and energy I've invested in this. Last night was a breakthrough. I couldn't believe how much better the soundstage and surrounds in general sounded. Huge victory...just huge and the reason I've spent the past 10 hours messing with everything...I have hope again! Yea!!!!! ARC 2.1 has made an amazing difference....


The bad...ever since I ran ARC with both subs active my bass has gone to Po Po. I get much better base sound when I run ARC with one (front) sub active and the other sub off. I manually adjust the 2nd (rear) sub into the mix. I'd love to get both base and surround working but I've been very unsuccessful. I ran all the new uploads at the target 20mhz mode. Could the 20mhz target impact the dual sub performance? Even when I had the subs phased in separately, it sounded like crap. When I ran an old 1.25 sweep (One sub sweep) into ARC 2.1, I got much better bass. So that proves that the subs can work fine in my environment when ARC isn't trying to mess with both of them. I'm about to run a brand new clean sweep, front sub active with ARC 2.1 to see if I can tell a difference.


So long story short I'm about to run two new sweeps. ARC 2.1 with one sub and mains ported (higher crossover) and another sweep with one sub and the mains not ported (lower crossover). I'm then going to compare them to my sweeps with dual subs.


In an effort to properly align both subs with phase and polarity I've been doing a lot of reading. I really appreciated your detailed education on phase and polarity. That was very eye opening and I had no idea about Polarity. Which leads me into my first question. How do I change the Polarity on a SVS PB-13? I couldn't find a polarity switch. I'm afraid it's some mega complicated process. Can you please review the attached manual and see if there is a way to adjust polarity?


Lastly should I upload a 12mhz or 10mhz calculation versus 20mhz from the two sub configuration (one at phase 180 & other phase 0) to help with the bass problem? Do you think it would make any difference? I've attached a 10 MHz and a 20 MHz calculation from that sweep. Do you see anything that says..."hey...the target MHz if effecting sub performance".


Once I settle in on whether I like the dual sub calculation or the 1 sub calculation I'm going to test adding some room gain. First I thought it would be best to settle first on whether I like ARC fixing my subs or I like fixing my subs. After determining that I'm going to try to find which target max MHz works best and then finally settle on how much room gain to add.


I'll say this. I've grown a MASSIVE appreciation for those in the industry who do sound balancing for a living...my god this is hard. You turn one knob here and it changes everything. This polarity thing has me scared to death.


Link to SVS PB-13 Manual. Please help me find the polarity switch....

http://www.svsound.com/manuals/SVS_v...PC13-Ultra.pdf 



Thanks for ALL the help!!!!!!


----------



## spiderv6

Bob, many thanks.....loooks like that new PJ might be in the works sooner than planned....erm the wife authorized......ahem


----------



## Big Tex

Curious...what seems to be the sweet spot for everyone when selecting a target Max Eq Frequency in ARC? Is it still 12k or is it now 20k?


Thanks!!!!


Big Tex


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15846495
> 
> 
> Curious...what seems to be the sweet spot for everyone when selecting a target Max Eq Frequency in ARC? Is it still 12k or is it now 20k?
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!!
> 
> 
> Big Tex



12KH was never a "sweet spot". It was just a number picked out of a hat that got talked about a lot in the early discussion about whether it might be a good idea to raise the Max EQ Frequency target.


How high you can go depends on how much correction ARC has to do at lower frequencies and whether speaker directionality is muddying the data ARC hears at high frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15846116
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Once again...thanks for your thoughtful and detailed analysis of EVERYTHING. I continue to be amazed at how much you know about this crap. It blows me away...
> 
> 
> So here's a summary of the last 24 hours. Some great news, some not so good news. My wife thinks I'm NUTS and have major OCD which is true.
> 
> 
> I ran new sweeps and implemented ARC 2.0.1 which like a fool I refer to as 2.1 because I can't count. I uploaded 4 different ARC calculations and listened to them all.
> 
> 
> Great news. The surrounds sound AMAZING in 2.1. I was SHOCKED at how much better they sounded. I have to be honest. Up till last night I've been very disappointed with ARC considering how much time, money and energy I've invested in this. Last night was a breakthrough. I couldn't believe how much better the soundstage and surrounds in general sounded. Huge victory...just huge and the reason I've spent the past 10 hours messing with everything...I have hope again! Yea!!!!! ARC 2.1 has made an amazing difference....
> 
> 
> The bad...ever since I ran ARC with both subs active my bass has gone to Po Po. I get much better base sound when I run ARC with one (front) sub active and the other sub off. I manually adjust the 2nd (rear) sub into the mix. I'd love to get both base and surround working but I've been very unsuccessful. I ran all the new uploads at the target 20mhz mode. Could the 20mhz target impact the dual sub performance? Even when I had the subs phased in separately, it sounded like crap. When I ran an old 1.25 sweep (One sub sweep) into ARC 2.1, I got much better bass. So that proves that the subs can work fine in my environment when ARC isn't trying to mess with both of them. I'm about to run a brand new clean sweep, front sub active with ARC 2.1 to see if I can tell a difference.
> 
> 
> So long story short I'm about to run two new sweeps. ARC 2.1 with one sub and mains ported (higher crossover) and another sweep with one sub and the mains not ported (lower crossover). I'm then going to compare them to my sweeps with dual subs.
> 
> 
> In an effort to properly align both subs with phase and polarity I've been doing a lot of reading. I really appreciated your detailed education on phase and polarity. That was very eye opening and I had no idea about Polarity. Which leads me into my first question. How do I change the Polarity on a SVS PB-13? I couldn't find a polarity switch. I'm afraid it's some mega complicated process. Can you please review the attached manual and see if there is a way to adjust polarity?
> 
> 
> Lastly should I upload a 12mhz or 10mhz calculation versus 20mhz from the two sub configuration (one at phase 180 & other phase 0) to help with the bass problem? Do you think it would make any difference? I've attached a 10 MHz and a 20 MHz calculation from that sweep. Do you see anything that says..."hey...the target MHz if effecting sub performance".
> 
> 
> Once I settle in on whether I like the dual sub calculation or the 1 sub calculation I'm going to test adding some room gain. First I thought it would be best to settle first on whether I like ARC fixing my subs or I like fixing my subs. After determining that I'm going to try to find which target max MHz works best and then finally settle on how much room gain to add.
> 
> 
> I'll say this. I've grown a MASSIVE appreciation for those in the industry who do sound balancing for a living...my god this is hard. You turn one knob here and it changes everything. This polarity thing has me scared to death.
> 
> 
> Link to SVS PB-13 Manual. Please help me find the polarity switch....
> 
> http://www.svsound.com/manuals/SVS_v...PC13-Ultra.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for ALL the help!!!!!!



Based on the curves, your 20KHz results look better. The high frequencies look better and the lower frequencies are not damaged.


By the way, it is KHz, not MHz, just like it's ARC V2.0.1, not ARC V2.1










Apparently your subs don't include a Polarity switch. You could make a cable with the polarity of the wires reversed to have the same effect (do this with just one of the two subs of course), but it is probably safer for you to leave them cabled normally and just work with the Phase control they do offer.


I really don't know why you are getting such bad results having ARC Measure with both subs active. It really is the only right way to do it and plenty of other posters here are using 2 (or more) subs this way.


It is not obvious from what you posted whether these charts show results Measured with both subs active, but there's nothing nasty going on in the sub curves in these two sets of charts.


----------------------------------------------------


Let's focus on your best set of 20KHz results for a time when you did the ARC Measurements with both subs active. Open that results file in Advanced mode and go to the Targets window. Screen capture the Targets window as well as the two chart pages for that file and post them here. Now Upload that results file, and then go to the Setup menu and report what is in the Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie for crossovers and what is in the Setup > Level Configuration for speaker volume trims. Do this right after you do the Upload.


Next I want to be sure you understand that you can't change those settings in the Setup menu after the ARC Upload without screwing up the solution ARC has Uploaded for you. In particular, that means you should capture the changes ARC has made in the Setup menu by doing a Save Use and/or Installer Settings so that you don't accidentally screw up the settings ARC has Upload by doing a load from either of those memories.


In addition, you can't change the positioning of either sub, or the settings of any of its controls after doing the ARC Measurement without screwing up the ARC results. I.e., if you change any of that you would need to re-Measure.


Finally, I want to be sure you are using proper mic positioning during your ARC Measurements. The mic should be pointing straight up and set at seated ear height. The mic #1 position must be at the center of your preferred seating. Subsequent positions must alternate either side of that. And no two mic positions, whether or not sequential, can be closer than 24 inches apart.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Tried the 7.1 to 5.1 on my D2v and it was very difficult to hear much of a difference. Tried it with Hellboy 2.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks for trying. Nick has all the info from me. We'll see what they find.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns

I upgraded to ARC 2.01 when it became available on the public downloads page. I was running 1.25, which sounded great. I took new measurements, calculated and uploaded the results. The graphs looked great. I noticed, however, that my sub level went from +0.5 to -5.5. ARC 2.01 to me had more detail, sounded better in the high end, and I could also hear more detail out of my surrounds. The bass, however, was anemic. I watched three or four movies, and each time, the bass was lacking. Just to test my ears, I ran the audio test in the Avia disc that tests the subwoofer level against the other speakers, and sure enough my Radio Shack meter showed that my sub level measured 7-8 dbs lower than my other speakers. Yesterday, I uninstalled ARC 2.01 and reloaded 1.25. I took new measurements, and when I uploaded my results, my sub level went back to +0.5. I measured sub level with my Avia disc again, and it measured within 1-2 dbs of my other speakers.


I haven't read of anyone else complaining of this type of problem with ARC 2.01, except tonight in Big Tex's post above, which might be another issue all together, but I thought I should post this problem I had.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/15847127
> 
> 
> I upgraded to ARC 2.01 when it became available on the public downloads page. I was running 1.25, which sounded great. I took new measurements, calculated and uploaded the results. The graphs looked great. I noticed, however, that my sub level went from +0.5 to -5.5. ARC 2.01 to me had more detail, sounded better in the high end, and I could also hear more detail out of my surrounds. The bass, however, was anemic. I watched three or four movies, and each time, the bass was lacking. Just to test my ears, I ran the audio test in the Avia disc that tests the subwoofer level against the other speakers, and sure enough my Radio Shack meter showed that my sub level measured 7-8 dbs lower than my other speakers. Yesterday, I uninstalled ARC 2.01 and reloaded 1.25. I took new measurements, and when I uploaded my results, my sub level went back to +0.5. I measured sub level with my Avia disc again, and it measured within 1-2 dbs of my other speakers.
> 
> 
> I haven't read of anyone else complaining of this type of problem with ARC 2.01, except tonight in Big Tex's post above, which might be another issue all together, but I thought I should post this problem I had.



It's also interesting that those of us who have been trying "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 from the password protected download page have reported significant increase in bass and in bass extension into the subsonics compared to "official" ARC V2.0.1. So much so that I've alerted Nick at Anthem that they might have gone too far.


I thought my bass sounded good with ARC V2.0.1 on my older D2. So I'm a bit surprised by this change in the "test" version. Both ARC V2.0.1 and test ARC V2.0.1.1 have my sub at the same level of volume trim -- which is about 3dB below what ARC V1.2.5 used.


Keep in mind that the speaker volume trim doesn't tell the whole story due to boosts and cuts implemented by the Room Correction processing.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

This latest test version of ARC, 2.01.1 has produced my most accurate curves, best overall sound with LFE close to my theatre experiences. For these reasons it gets my vote. I personally don't find the LFE to be over the top IMHO.

John


----------



## spiderv6

Oh boy. So many options. So many menus. The flexibility of this beast is amazing. It's going to take me a month of playing before I even start to squeeze the best out of it!!!!!


First arc run is now done and I'm trying to slowly make sense of it all.


Great fun!!!


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15842728
> 
> 
> The values used for vertical and horizontal cropping, and the centering of that crop within the input image, are based on the 1920x1080p version of the video that the Anthem uses for all its internal processing. Which means you can define one crop and it will extract the same percentage and location out of the input video regardless of the input video resolution. The crop is also entirely independent of the output video resolution you have chosen. The Scale Out setting determines how the shape you have cropped out of the input gets stretched or padded to match the shape of your defined Video Output configuration. Scaling then converts the resolution to complete the task.
> 
> 
> It's a little more complicated because SD video pixels are not square and the same pixels will get interpreted as having two different widths according to whether the input SD video is flagged as 4:3 content or 16:9 content (as from an SD-DVD player). Examples of the math are shown in the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling links in the collection of links in the first post of this thread.
> 
> --Bob



Okay, I must be dense. I've read the posts in the OP, and they provide more detail to what you're saying here, but it still seems self-contradictory?


If the cropping is applied *after* the 1080p conversion, then it shouldn't matter if the source is SD 4x3 or HD, right? I'm cropping the resulting 1080p picture, which has square pixels?


I've just tested it, so I know it's not the case, but that implies I'm *not* cropping the 1080p picture, I'm cropping the pre-letterboxed picture. Or something like that?


Can you clarify for me? Also, do you know if there's any way I'm going to get this without having to create 3 inputs for every source that I want to set up LB cropping on?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15846301
> 
> 
> Bob, many thanks.....loooks like that new PJ might be in the works sooner than planned....erm the wife authorized......ahem



Yes - you have to have a HDMI PJ.


I only have FOUR


----------



## shawnboston

Viva 2.02c! All of the video problems I had are now history and video from both of my sources are now looking pristine.


I was also incorrect earlier today when I said that the video adjust OSD was not working for either HDM1 or HDM2, it is working with HDM1. I also discovered that HDM1 passes through audio to my Pioneer PRO111FD whereas that did not seem to be happening with HDM2. Probably not something most would care about but there are times when I'd actually rather just watch/listen to something on TV rather than use the whole system (which can be a bit of overkill for some programming).


I have not tried the beta of the ARC software because I'm waiting for the rest of my speakers to arrive, I'll let all of you know how that turns out. My overall verdict on the AVM50v so far is very positive . . . a few teething issues but I think these are typical of a brand new product. All in all I am very pleased with the way my system is coming together. Thanks everyone for your help so far!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15847392
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> This latest test version of ARC, 2.01.1 has produced my most accurate curves, best overall sound with LFE close to my theatre experiences. For these reasons it gets my vote. I personally don't find the LFE to be over the top IMHO.
> 
> John



And you may be correct.


But it was an unexpected degree of change so I think it's worth another look.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15847679
> 
> 
> Oh boy. So many options. So many menus. The flexibility of this beast is amazing. It's going to take me a month of playing before I even start to squeeze the best out of it!!!!!
> 
> 
> First arc run is now done and I'm trying to slowly make sense of it all.
> 
> 
> Great fun!!!



Once again it's amazing how good ARC can get things first time around the track.


You are in pretty good shape with the only real problem being the bass in your Left Front speaker. I'll get back to that.


So where to begin? Your sub is good down to 30Hz. Pretty typical, but as we've discussed several times over the last few days there are subs that will go deeper. You may also gain some output at low frequencies by coupling the sub more strongly to the room -- typically by moving it a little closer to a solid wall or corner.


Your room has a classic cass of room suck (a cancellation room response) at 200Hz, but ARC has that well in hand. If it becomes a problem in future Measurements, some room treatments would likely help (e.g., bass traps in the corners behind your front speakers).


The high frequencies for all of your speakers are showing signs that you might need to point them better. But ARC has almost entirely corrected that in your 20KHz Calculation.


All in all pretty good.


The problem is your Left Front.


I presume your Left Front is the same speaker as your Right Front. If so there's no way to explain the poor bass response of your Left Front except to assume its woofer (bass driver element) is not functioning.


So the thing to do is to play some content and go put your ear up to each driver in the LF and RF and confirm whether the woofer in the LF is actually putting out any sound.


If it isn't (and I think that's likely), then it could be as simple as a wiring problem. Some speakers have separate input jacks for bass and for higher frequencies. So that you only have to run one speaker wire to the speaker, the two input jack pairs are usually connected together by bus bars at the speaker.


So check your wiring for LF. If it is wired correctly but you still aren't getting sound out of the woofer, then just step along the signal path swapping LF and RF at each step.


So for example: Swap the LF and RF connects between the Anthem and the amp. If the problem stays in LF then put them back and swap them at the output from the amp. If the problem stays in LF then you have confirmed the woofer is broken in the LF. It may be as simple as a blown fuse at the speaker.


When you get your LF fixed, re-Measure with ARC. Presuming LF produces output similar to RF then ARC will lower the crossover for your fronts, adjust the sub accordingly, revise the solution and all should be good.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15847703
> 
> 
> Okay, I must be dense. I've read the posts in the OP, and they provide more detail to what you're saying here, but it still seems self-contradictory?
> 
> 
> If the cropping is applied *after* the 1080p conversion, then it shouldn't matter if the source is SD 4x3 or HD, right? I'm cropping the resulting 1080p picture, which has square pixels?
> 
> 
> I've just tested it, so I know it's not the case, but that implies I'm *not* cropping the 1080p picture, I'm cropping the pre-letterboxed picture. Or something like that?
> 
> 
> Can you clarify for me? Also, do you know if there's any way I'm going to get this without having to create 3 inputs for every source that I want to set up LB cropping on?



You are cropping the image before scaling. The 1920x1080 range for the cropping values are just a convenient way to specify divisions of the frame in an input resolution independent way. The division of the frame is specified in square pixels (i.e., 1920 divided by 1080 is 1.777 which is the same as 16:9. Which means the pixels used to specify the crop must be as tall as they are wide because we know 1920x1080 of them exactly fills the 16:9 shape of the video frame used in the Anthem.


The SD image is 720x480 but if the content is 4:3 with pillar box bars *GENERATED BY THE SOURCE DEVICE* some of that 720 across each line is being taken up by the pillar box bars.


If the content is 16:9 as from an anamorphic SD-DVD ("Enhanced for 16:9 TVs!") then all of that 720 across each line contains image.


How can that be? Because SD pixels are non-square and variable width.


720 divided by 480 is 1.5. 4:3 is 1.333. 16:9 is 1.777. You see? 720x480 is an in between shape chosen when 16:9 TV was just getting started -- a shape that could work either way.


Now why did I bold that phrase above about "generated by the source device"? Because if the pillar box bars are being generated by the Anthem then the 720x480 coming from the source must all contain image EVEN IF THAT'S 4:3 CONTENT.


What's going on is that the pixels across each line -- which should be rectangles taller than they are wide for a 4:3 image -- are actually being presented to the Anthem as if they were rectangles wider than they tall, as if this was a 16:9 image. But if the Anthem is told to letter/pillar box the input the Anthem will create the necessary pillar box bars -- squeezing the image into what's left in the middle of the line. Since the Anthem does that at high resolution for your HD display, no info content is lost.


So with this background, you need to know whether the source is set to add pillar box bars for 4:3 content or not. If not, then 4:3 and 16:9 content will both fill the 720 pixels of data across each line. If so, then 16:9 content fills that while 4:3 content has a bunch of pixels on either side taken up by pillar box bars.


------------------------------------------


The thing to do is to concentrate on the aspect ratio of the input video frame and the aspect ratio of the part of that you want to extract. If the input video frame comes with pillar box bars or letter box bars then those are PART of its aspect ratio, even though they may not be part of the aspect ratio of the portion of the image you are trying to extract.


With this in mind, go back and read the math examples in those posts linked in the first post of this thread and see if it doesn't start to make more sense.


IMPORTANT NOTE: If you want to play around with Custom Crop settings just to see what they do, be sure you have Scale Out set to Letter/Pillar Box. If you have it set to Anamorphic or Panoramic then the Anthem will stretch the cropped image so that it still fills the screen even as you do a deeper crop which will just confuse you. Once you understand better how Custom Cropping actually works then of course you should feel free to use Anamorphic with it if that's what you want.


Also keep in mind that you have the pre-defined 16:9 and 4:3 crops already available which handle a variety of common situations without you having to do any math.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

Bob, many thanks....off to try all of that now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnboston* /forum/post/15847799
> 
> 
> Viva 2.02c! All of the video problems I had are now history and video from both of my sources are now looking pristine.
> 
> 
> I was also incorrect earlier today when I said that the video adjust OSD was not working for either HDM1 or HDM2, it is working with HDM1. I also discovered that HDM1 passes through audio to my Pioneer PRO111FD whereas that did not seem to be happening with HDM2. Probably not something most would care about but there are times when I'd actually rather just watch/listen to something on TV rather than use the whole system (which can be a bit of overkill for some programming).
> 
> 
> I have not tried the beta of the ARC software because I'm waiting for the rest of my speakers to arrive, I'll let all of you know how that turns out. My overall verdict on the AVM50v so far is very positive . . . a few teething issues but I think these are typical of a brand new product. All in all I am very pleased with the way my system is coming together. Thanks everyone for your help so far!



I'm glad things are working for you.


This information on HDMI 2 is useful. So far it appears we've got the following restrictions on HDMI 2:


1) No Video Source Adjust menu in that HDMI output.


2) No on-screen display of the information from the character generator (e.g., volume, mode, Select button info)


3) No audio in that HDMI output


I was not expecting any of these restrictions. I wonder if this is a limitation of the hardware or if this might change in future firmware?

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15842728
> 
> 
> The values used for vertical and horizontal cropping, and the centering of that crop within the input image, are based on the 1920x1080p version of the video that the Anthem uses for all its internal processing. Which means you can define one crop and it will extract the same percentage and location out of the input video regardless of the input video resolution.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15848320
> 
> 
> You are cropping the image before scaling. The 1920x1080 range for the cropping values are just a convenient way to specify divisions of the frame in an input resolution independent way. The division of the frame is specified in square pixels (i.e., 1920 divided by 1080 is 1.777 which is the same as 16:9. Which means the pixels used to specify the crop must be as tall as they are wide because we know 1920x1080 of them exactly fills the 16:9 shape of the video frame used in the Anthem.



Okay, that makes a little more sense, but maybe you can see my confusion over what appears to be contradictory statements (I know now that they aren't, but it's a little confusing).


Anyway, I'm of course not sending pillar boxes from the source, so I'll crop accordingly. Which logically is still confusing, since the source 4x3 image is really the full width, and what I really want to do is:


1) remove the pillar boxes (being added by the D2v)

2) crop the top/bottom letter box (being added by the TV station)


I know the built-in crop will do this for me, but doesn't that mean:

a) Adding yet another "virtual" device to the D2v, or

b) Sending the commands over the serial port to do this dynamically?


Is there any way to do this otherwise (i.e. one-click crops for HD content and 4x3 SD content)?


Thanks!


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15848153
> 
> 
> Once again it's amazing how good ARC can get things first time around the track.
> 
> 
> You are in pretty good shape with the only real problem being the bass in your Left Front speaker. I'll get back to that.
> 
> 
> So where to begin? Your sub is good down to 30Hz. Pretty typical, but as we've discussed several times over the last few days there are subs that will go deeper. You may also gain some output at low frequencies by coupling the sub more strongly to the room -- typically by moving it a little closer to a solid wall or corner.
> 
> 
> Your room has a classic cass of room suck (a cancellation room response) at 200Hz, but ARC has that well in hand. If it becomes a problem in future Measurements, some room treatments would likely help (e.g., bass traps in the corners behind your front speakers).
> 
> 
> The high frequencies for all of your speakers are showing signs that you might need to point them better. But ARC has almost entirely corrected that in your 20KHz Calculation.
> 
> 
> All in all pretty good.
> 
> 
> The problem is your Left Front.
> 
> 
> I presume your Left Front is the same speaker as your Right Front. If so there's no way to explain the poor bass response of your Left Front except to assume its woofer (bass driver element) is not functioning.
> 
> 
> So the thing to do is to play some content and go put your ear up to each driver in the LF and RF and confirm whether the woofer in the LF is actually putting out any sound.
> 
> 
> If it isn't (and I think that's likely), then it could be as simple as a wiring problem. Some speakers have separate input jacks for bass and for higher frequencies. So that you only have to run one speaker wire to the speaker, the two input jack pairs are usually connected together by bus bars at the speaker.
> 
> 
> So check your wiring for LF. If it is wired correctly but you still aren't getting sound out of the woofer, then just step along the signal path swapping LF and RF at each step.
> 
> 
> So for example: Swap the LF and RF connects between the Anthem and the amp. If the problem stays in LF then put them back and swap them at the output from the amp. If the problem stays in LF then you have confirmed the woofer is broken in the LF. It may be as simple as a blown fuse at the speaker.
> 
> 
> When you get your LF fixed, re-Measure with ARC. Presuming LF produces output similar to RF then ARC will lower the crossover for your fronts, adjust the sub accordingly, revise the solution and all should be good.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - SPOT ON!! A simple wiring problem. Red and black mixed up in the LF lower terminals.










I still want to play with the Sub as it can do better. I will also take your advice and play with positioning to see if I can fix some of the high frequency issues.


That will all have to wait for the weekend unfortunately.


I have given up on my comcast/no audio issue as well. That one is not making any sense to me and will also wait for the weekend (HDMI direct from the Motorola works great....route it through the D2v and I lose audio).


Thanks again bob, much appreciated.


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15840900
> 
> 
> Sounds like Wave Field Synthesis over at Mann's Chinese. I'd love to hear it someday.



Hi Roger,


Did you heard about CARROUSO? If not, just Google it. "Mucho" interesting.


Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15848626
> 
> 
> Okay, that makes a little more sense, but maybe you can see my confusion over what appears to be contradictory statements (I know now that they aren't, but it's a little confusing).
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'm of course not sending pillar boxes from the source, so I'll crop accordingly. Which logically is still confusing, since the source 4x3 image is really the full width, and what I really want to do is:
> 
> 
> 1) remove the pillar boxes (being added by the D2v)
> 
> 2) crop the top/bottom letter box (being added by the TV station)
> 
> 
> I know the built-in crop will do this for me, but doesn't that mean:
> 
> a) Adding yet another "virtual" device to the D2v, or
> 
> b) Sending the commands over the serial port to do this dynamically?
> 
> 
> Is there any way to do this otherwise (i.e. one-click crops for HD content and 4x3 SD content)?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Your confusion may be that the pillar box bars added by the D2v are not part of the input video, so they are not part of the input crop at all. You have to think in terms of what's coming from the source device before the Anthem scales it. Note that SD source devices have a way to flag their video output as inherently 16:9 or 4:3. Not all source devices do this correctly. The built in 4:3 and 16:9 crops use this info.


The act of scaling also involves making the (possibly cropped) input shape match the output shape. If you use Letter/Pillar Box then this is done by padding with black bars. If you use Anamorphic this is done by stretching.


So you have an input shape, out of which you crop a subset which may be a different shape. The scaler then pads or stretches that to the output shape at the same time as it interpolates the higher resolution output video.


---------------------------------------


There is no single remote control command way to change the input crop other than to select a different source with its own crop setting (in Video Source Adjust). Of course for a given source you could also go into Video Source Adjust and select the alternate crop at any time, but there's no one button way to do this. Nor can you do it via a single IR remote command.


NOTE: You CAN do this with RS-232 (serial port) commands.


[Anthem used to have a remote "shortcut" under the Mode key for immediate viewing of the current Crop Input setting and cycling through the settings (including any previously defined Custom Crop for that input), but they removed that in the firmware release where they added the shortcut for selecting between Video Output configurations. I used to use this shortcut for changing crop input settings. Now I use separate source definitions.]

--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15847763
> 
> 
> Yes - you have to have a HDMI PJ.
> 
> 
> I only have FOUR



Now! That makes my day!


----------



## Lordoftherings

I can't resist to say that.


With everything that I'm reading about Mr. Bob Pariseau explanations & responses;


Bob! You're the Man!


---------

Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15848678
> 
> 
> Bob - SPOT ON!! A simple wiring problem. Red and black mixed up in the LF lower terminals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still want to play with the Sub as it can do better. I will also take your advice and play with positioning to see if I can fix some of the high frequency issues.
> 
> 
> That will all have to wait for the weekend unfortunately.
> 
> 
> I have given up on my comcast/no audio issue as well. That one is not making any sense to me and will also wait for the weekend (HDMI direct from the Motorola works great....route it through the D2v and I lose audio).
> 
> 
> Thanks again bob, much appreciated.



Now you're cookin'! You have the sub issue to address of course, and I'm a bit puzzled why ARC didn't do any high frequency correction for your Right Surround. It may be a resource issue (too much correction being done elsewhere).


In any event, if you can get some improvement in the high frequencies of the Measured curves by repointing the speakers (particularly in the vertical direction). I think ARC will take care of the rest.


-------------------------------------------


The Comcast audio problem is most likely a simple setup problem. Re-check your Setup > Source Setup settings for that input.


If you are trying to get audio to your display through the Anthem, also make sure you are using the HDMI 1 out if you have an AVM 50v or D2v. We've had a report that audio may not be part of the signal on the HDMI 2 out.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/15848814
> 
> 
> I can't resist to say that.
> 
> 
> With everything that I'm reading about Mr. Bob Pariseau explanations & responses;
> 
> 
> Bob! You're the Man!
> 
> 
> ---------
> 
> Bob



We here at "Bob Pariseau" thank you for your kind words!









--Bob


----------



## slots1

Bob

The only reason that we asked the why, is that we all respect your opinion on our beloved D2's. So, when you make a change we think their was some reason. But, I respect your privacy. Thanks again for all your help.

Gerry


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I understand, and certainly no offense taken. It's just one of my quirks.

--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings

Hi Bob and your team,


I sincerely mean what I said, so you are very welcome.


Bob


----------



## jayray

Nick recommended a book to me in the area of sound reproduction. Given the interest on this thread in ARC and how it works, this book is written by Floyd Toole who did a majority of the research at the National Research Council in Ottawa, upon which ARC is based. If interested, Amazon.com has it and for us Canadians Amazon.ca and Chapter.ca have it. Apparently it is quite the hit with the engineers at Anthem.

John


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15851726
> 
> 
> Nick recommended a book to me in the area of sound reproduction. Given the interest on this thread in ARC and how it works, this book is written by Floyd Toole who did a majority of the research at the National Research Council in Ottawa, upon which ARC is based. If interested, Amazon.com has it and for us Canadians Amazon.ca and Chapter.ca have it. Apparently it is quite the hit with the engineers at Anthem.
> 
> John



Amazon Link.









Sound Reproduction: The Acoustics and Psychoacoustics of Loudspeakers and Rooms


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Help Please: Need two experiments*


I need some folks here to try two things and report back.


The first test is for anyone who has a D2v or AVM 50v with two HDMI displays attached to the HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 outputs.


Power up both displays, then press and hold the "7" key to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. From previous reports here we would expect that to only show on the display attached to HDMI 1.


Now scroll right to the Patterns panel and then select any of the test patterns.


QUESTION: Does the test pattern show on BOTH displays or only on the display attached to HDMI 1?


Use the Back button several times to exit the test pattern and the Video Source Adjust menu.


========================================


The second test is for anyone with a D2v or AVM 50v who has installed the "test" V2.02c(13feb) firwmare.


Since installing that "test" firmware I can not make the "Get" function work in Live Video Settings Editor. I'd like to find out whether it is working for others. The Settings Backup utility and the ARC application both work fine so my serial connection is working, and Live Video Settings Editor also worked fine with the V2.02 firmware so I think this is a bug in the "test" firmware.


Turn off the Anthem. Connect your computer to the Anthem via the serial cable. Turn on the Anthem and leave it on. Find the Live Video Settings Editor application in the Utilities folder in your ARC V2.0.1 or "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 install kit and run it right out of that folder (no need to "install" it first -- but if it is still on your ARC CD you might find it easier to copy it to your hard drive first).


Accept the baud rate that LVSE decides to use and click OK when it says it has found your Anthem.


Now click on the "Get" button. This should load your current set of Video Source Adjust menu settings into the application. A box will come up asking you to wait. It should take a little under 1 minute.


In my case the USB/Serial adapter I'm using flashes for the right amount of time and then stops as if the transfer is complete but that "please wait" dialog box never goes away.


Does it work for you? Again, this test is specific to the "test" V2.02c firmware.


If it works, just exit out of LVSE -- don't change any of the values you loaded (unless you want to) as such changes will also be made right away in your Video Source Adjust Menu. That's the "live" part of this application.


If it hangs up without finishing the "Get", just click the cancel button in the please wait dialog box and then exit the application.


Thanks!

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15845254
> 
> 
> Nick at Anthem tells me that they were able to run with the info I provided on the YCbCr gray scale bug (still present in the V2.02c(13feb) "test" firmware) and found the culprit.
> 
> 
> The bug in YCbCr handshaking arises when Extended RGB is enabled in the Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space menu for that input device.
> 
> 
> He says they have the fix in place but it will take a few more days before it is out as a new test version pending other bug fixes.
> 
> 
> My cookie tastes even sweeter now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



What bug? I have this exact setting, with the test firmware, and it's perfect on my display. Is there some bug I'm missing?


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I've tried this and can't even connect to my unit. But then it has only worked once and it was with my AVM50. No problem with ARC or firmware.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15851792
> 
> 
> Amazon Link.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sound Reproduction: The Acoustics and Psychoacoustics of Loudspeakers and Rooms



Marc,

Have you read it?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15852010
> 
> 
> What bug? I have this exact setting, with the test firmware, and it's perfect on my display. Is there some bug I'm missing?



Yes. YCbCr gray scale setup during the HDMI handshake is broken completely in the D2v and AVM 50v firmware prior to "test" firmware V2.02c. The resulting gray scale is too dark and repeated handshakes can come up with two different gray scale results -- both wrong.


In the test firmware, this is fixed UNLESS you have "Extended RGB" checked in Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space for that input and the source device transitions between RGB and YCbCr output (as, for example, the PS3 does). If Studio RGB is checked (along with Auto YCbCr) then the YCbCr gray scale comes out correct every handshake. If Extended RGB is checked then the YCbCr gray scale comes out way too bright. Cycling inputs away from that source and back has about a 50:50 chance of restoring the correct gray scale.


The bug probably exists with all input devices but it is much more likely to occur with the PS3 because the PS3 switches between RGB and YCbCr output as it is starting up disc playback.


Note that this bug is on the input side of the Anthem and the Extended RGB setting being referred to is an input setting. There's no problem using RGB output from the Anthem and the internally generated test patterns (Video Source Adjust > Patterns) always produce the correct gray scale for video output setup.


By the way, for home theater use, Studio RGB is the preferred setting for either input or output whenever you are using RGB. Extended RGB should be limited to devices that don't handle Studio RGB properly (most commonly projectors that were designed for use with computers). The PS3 is a special case since it forces RGB output for games and the game content is designed to expect Extended RGB (i.e., it is designed to computer standards instead of home theater standards). Blu-Ray and SD-DVD discs output YCbCr from the PS3 as they should.


ETA: Note that the devices at both ends of the HDMI cable have to both be set to agree on whether Studio RGB or Extended RGB will be used for RGB data format. If there is a mismatch the imaging will be too dark or blacks will be washed out gray depending on which way you have the mismatch. RGB black levels will look the same either way so long as both devices are in agreement to use the same flavor of RGB. For newbies: You'll find an explanation of the various flavors of RGB and YCbCr data formats in the Terminology and Technology post links collected in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15852048
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I've tried this and can't even connect to my unit. But then it has only worked once and it was with my AVM50. No problem with ARC or firmware.
> 
> John



I presume you are talking about Live Video Settings Editor.


Did you try it with the V2.02 firmware before going to the "test" V2.02c firmware? LVSE worked fine for me with V2.02.


And I presume you are using the June 2, 2008, version of LVSE that comes with the ARC V2.0.1 and "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 install kits as opposed to some earlier version of LVSE, right?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Your presumptions are correct. Tried it just before the last firmware update, ie. With 2.02. I don't have much tweaked in this menu so I just write them down.


I have just noticed very brief dropouts bitstreaming from my hddvd XA2. None when letting player decode. Will let Nick know.

John


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15851792
> 
> 
> Amazon Link.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sound Reproduction: The Acoustics and Psychoacoustics of Loudspeakers and Rooms





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15852060
> 
> 
> Marc,
> 
> Have you read it?
> 
> John



Not yet... between kids and work, I'll struggle to make the time..


And everybody knows that mixers can't read.. that's why we're mixers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15852789
> 
> 
> And everybody knows that mixers can't read.. that's why we're mixers.



You'll just have to wait for it to come out as an audio-book!










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just checked again, and the distributor who was posting the Paradigm/Anthem backorder reports on line still hasn't updated since the Feb. 2 report I last found. Oh well...

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15851972
> 
> *Help Please: Need two experiments*
> 
> 
> I need some folks here to try two things and report back.
> 
> 
> The first test is for anyone who has a D2v or AVM 50v with two HDMI displays attached to the HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 outputs.
> 
> 
> Power up both displays, then press and hold the "7" key to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. From previous reports here we would expect that to only show on the display attached to HDMI 1.
> 
> 
> Now scroll right to the Patterns panel and then select any of the test patterns.
> 
> 
> QUESTION: Does the test pattern show on BOTH displays or only on the display attached to HDMI 1?
> 
> 
> Use the Back button several times to exit the test pattern and the Video Source Adjust menu.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> --Bob



Test pattern displays only on HDMI 1 display.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15852789
> 
> 
> Not yet... between kids and work, I'll struggle to make the time..
> 
> 
> And everybody knows that mixers can't read.. that's why we're mixers.



too funny


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15852809
> 
> 
> You'll just have to wait for it to come out as an audio-book!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



With the Thinker-bell to indicate when is time to flip the pages... Cool!


----------



## brado32

Hi folks.. a tad off topic, but im troubleshooting what I think is an amp problem and I need my sanity checked..


Went to watch a movie the other day with my avm50 and all the speakers except the sub sound super thin, like an am radio.. I thought it was a setting or surround emulation problem with the anthem, but just for grins, I turned off my adcom 5 channel amp and I still had this thin am sound through my speakers.. First of all, wouldnt I have no sound if I turned off my amp?? THe avm50 is just a pre-amp. I wanted to match up the avm50 with a anthem amp for a long time and maybe this is my excuse, but I am still confused as to why I still have sound (although crappy am thin sounding) when I turn my 5 channel amp off..


thanks


-Brad


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15853388
> 
> 
> Test pattern displays only on HDMI 1 display.



Thanks for that!


So we really will have to tell folks wanting to use two HDMI displays that they need to hook them up one at a time to HDMI 1 in order to use the internal test patterns to set the video levels in the display.


Oh well...


For folks who expect to be doing this, keep in mind that HDMI plugs and sockets are delicate. It would be wise to invest in some short "port savers" to protect the sockets in your Anthem -- short HDMI cables that you can leave plugged into the Anthem's sockets. The display (or source device) HDMI cable then plugs into the other end of these. Short "port saver" HDMI cables are sold by all the usual suspects.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32* /forum/post/15853720
> 
> 
> Hi folks.. a tad off topic, but im troubleshooting what I think is an amp problem and I need my sanity checked..
> 
> 
> Went to watch a movie the other day with my avm50 and all the speakers except the sub sound super thin, like an am radio.. I thought it was a setting or surround emulation problem with the anthem, but just for grins, I turned off my adcom 5 channel amp and I still had this thin am sound through my speakers.. First of all, wouldnt I have no sound if I turned off my amp?? THe avm50 is just a pre-amp. I wanted to match up the avm50 with a anthem amp for a long time and maybe this is my excuse, but I am still confused as to why I still have sound (although crappy am thin sounding) when I turn my 5 channel amp off..
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> -Brad



Evidently some signal is getting through the broken amp from the pre-pro to the speakers. It's probably just a symptom of it being broken.


Another possibility is that your amp has gone into low power thermal protection mode. Double check that you don't have a short on any of the speaker wires -- even one hair of wire out of place is enough. Carefully check both ends of each speaker wire. Turn the amp off and give it an hour to cool down and reset, and then turn it back on and see if you have full power again.


Of course if you have another amp handy -- even just a 2 channel amp -- you can use it to verify the output of your AVM50 is correct and that the problem really is in your power amp.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

just tried the Video Setting Editor and it worked like a charm. Go figure. This is a first for me.









John


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15853883
> 
> 
> For folks who expect to be doing this, keep in mind that HDMI plugs and sockets are delicate. It would be wise to invest in some short "port savers" to protect the sockets in your Anthem -- short HDMI cables that you can leave plugged into the Anthem's sockets. The display (or source device) HDMI cable then plugs into the other end of these. Short "port saver" HDMI cables are sold by all the usual suspects.
> 
> --Bob



+100


First thing I did was plug in port savers to each HDMI in/out port I'm using. My primary HDMI out port was actually slightly broken inside, and I was really worried, but I just pushed the little plastic thing together, and it works fine. That port-saver is never coming out.


It's way too easy to destroy an HDMI port.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15851726
> 
> 
> Nick recommended a book to me in the area of sound reproduction. Given the interest on this thread in ARC and how it works, this book is written by Floyd Toole who did a majority of the research at the National Research Council in Ottawa, upon which ARC is based. Apparently it is quite the hit with the engineers at Anthem.
> 
> John



Hmmm, maybe this will cause them to rethink the idea of "correcting" room "anti-modes" (acoustic cancellations). These cannot be corrected by EQ, yet ARC proclaims they do so. Kinda scares me.


Maybe their description is not fully revealing what is actually happening in ARC, which would be totally reasonable in such a competitive area--why tell your competition how you do things? It might be that during the multiple measurement process, dips that appear consistently are addressed, but dips that exist in only one location are ignored. That would make more sense to me, anyway, over here in the armchair design department.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32* /forum/post/15853720
> 
> 
> Hi folks.. a tad off topic, but im troubleshooting what I think is an amp problem and I need my sanity checked..
> 
> 
> Went to watch a movie the other day with my avm50 and all the speakers except the sub sound super thin, like an am radio.. I thought it was a setting or surround emulation problem with the anthem, but just for grins, I turned off my adcom 5 channel amp and I still had this thin am sound through my speakers.. First of all, wouldnt I have no sound if I turned off my amp?? THe avm50 is just a pre-amp. I wanted to match up the avm50 with a anthem amp for a long time and maybe this is my excuse, but I am still confused as to why I still have sound (although crappy am thin sounding) when I turn my 5 channel amp off..
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> -Brad



Did you unplug the amp, or just turn it off? Try completely unplugging it to continue to isolate the problem.


There's lots of diagnostics you can do:

- Swap another amp in

- Connect a source device (like an iPod or DVD player) directly to one channel on the amp

- Unplug all the speakers (at the amp) and plug them in one at a time

- Unplug all the interconnects (at the amp) and plug them in one at a time


Etc, etc.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15854127
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> just tried the Video Setting Editor and it worked like a charm. Go figure. This is a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I worked with V2.02c firmware? Hmmm. Now I have to wonder what's going on in my setup.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15854166
> 
> 
> Hmmm, maybe this will cause them to rethink the idea of "correcting" room "anti-modes" (acoustic cancellations). These cannot be corrected by EQ, yet ARC proclaims they do so. Kinda scares me.
> 
> 
> Maybe their description is not fully revealing what is actually happening in ARC, which would be totally reasonable in such a competitive area--why tell your competition how you do things? It might be that during the multiple measurement process, dips that appear consistently are addressed, but dips that exist in only one location are ignored. That would make more sense to me, anyway, over here in the armchair design department.



Roger,

Sounds like you've read a few books already







I am curious about how ARC works but in the absence of an explanation, the results are enough for me









John


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15851972
> 
> *Help Please: Need two experiments*
> 
> 
> 
> The second test is for anyone with a D2v or AVM 50v who has installed the "test" V2.02c(13feb) firwmare.
> 
> 
> Since installing that "test" firmware I can not make the "Get" function work in Live Video Settings Editor. I'd like to find out whether it is working for others. The Settings Backup utility and the ARC application both work fine so my serial connection is working, and Live Video Settings Editor also worked fine with the V2.02 firmware so I think this is a bug in the "test" firmware.
> 
> 
> Turn off the Anthem. Connect your computer to the Anthem via the serial cable. Turn on the Anthem and leave it on. Find the Live Video Settings Editor application in the Utilities folder in your ARC V2.0.1 or "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 install kit and run it right out of that folder (no need to "install" it first -- but if it is still on your ARC CD you might find it easier to copy it to your hard drive first).
> 
> 
> Accept the baud rate that LVSE decides to use and click OK when it says it has found your Anthem.
> 
> 
> Now click on the "Get" button. This should load your current set of Video Source Adjust menu settings into the application. A box will come up asking you to wait. It should take a little under 1 minute.
> 
> 
> In my case the USB/Serial adapter I'm using flashes for the right amount of time and then stops as if the transfer is complete but that "please wait" dialog box never goes away.
> 
> 
> Does it work for you? Again, this test is specific to the "test" V2.02c firmware.
> 
> 
> If it works, just exit out of LVSE -- don't change any of the values you loaded (unless you want to) as such changes will also be made right away in your Video Source Adjust Menu. That's the "live" part of this application.
> 
> 
> If it hangs up without finishing the "Get", just click the cancel button in the please wait dialog box and then exit the application.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I now have this issue and I did not install V2.02c yet just ARC 2.01.1. The same thing "please wait" does not go away. I also went back to the LVSE that came with 2.01, the same thing.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15854254
> 
> 
> I worked with V2.02c firmware? Hmmm. Now I have to wonder what's going on in my setup.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

yes I have 2.02c (13 Feb.) and this is the first time in a while that it has worked. I checked and it captured my settings exactly.

John


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15854166
> 
> 
> Hmmm, maybe this will cause them to rethink the idea of "correcting" room "anti-modes" (acoustic cancellations). These cannot be corrected by EQ, yet ARC proclaims they do so. Kinda scares me.
> 
> 
> Maybe their description is not fully revealing what is actually happening in ARC, which would be totally reasonable in such a competitive area--why tell your competition how you do things? It might be that during the multiple measurement process, dips that appear consistently are addressed, but dips that exist in only one location are ignored. That would make more sense to me, anyway, over here in the armchair design department.



My thought on this is that if there is an anti-node or null, it is fed by the same energy that drives a similar node or peak but at a different place. Thus, reducing the output at that frequency will reduce the magnitude of both the peak and the null, especially if the time decay of the filter is attended to. In fact, adding bass traps (which can only reduce available energy) to a room has the similar effect of reducing both peaks and nulls in its effective frequency range.


----------



## mikepebble

I wondered if Bob or someone could tell me if putting sealed subwoofers closer to a wall will help improve their response.I noticed that it is often suggested for arc results that maybe placing subs closer to the wall might help improve graphs.I have 2 sealed subs between my fronts one on each side of the centre speaker.I thought that sealed subswere not as sensitive to placement?I'll be running arc 2.01 soon and wondered if I should move them closer to the wall before the new sweeps are made? Any thoughts? Would it help?Thanks Mikepebble


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikepebble* /forum/post/15855963
> 
> 
> I wondered if Bob or someone could tell me if putting sealed subwoofers closer to a wall will help improve their response.I noticed that it is often suggested for arc results that maybe placing subs closer to the wall might help improve graphs.I have 2 sealed subs between my fronts one on each side of the centre speaker.I thought that sealed subswere not as sensitive to placement?I'll be running arc 2.01 soon and wondered if I should move them closer to the wall before the new sweeps are made? Any thoughts? Would it help?Thanks Mikepebble



I hate to say the obvious but ARC is the tool you could use to find out. Take a set of measurements with the subs as-is and then another moved closer to the wall. Only way to know for sure.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ALL subs are sensitive to placement. Even inches matter in how a sub couples to the room.


One commonly recommended technique is to move the sub to the center of your seating and play a bass test tone. Then go to your possible real placement locations for it and find which location is giving the loudest bass result -- by ear or with an SPL meter.


Then move the sub to that location.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15852843
> 
> 
> I just checked again, and the distributor who was posting the Paradigm/Anthem backorder reports on line still hasn't updated since the Feb. 2 report I last found. Oh well...
> 
> --Bob



I am still waiting for my new D2v. According to my dealer Anthem told them today that the backordered units should be arriving late next week (2/27 +/-).


Mike


----------



## mikepebble




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15856106
> 
> 
> ALL subs are sensitive to placement. Even inches matter in how a sub couples to the room.
> 
> 
> One commonly recommended technique is to move the sub to the center of your seating and play a bass test tone. Then go to your possible real placement locations for it and find which location is giving the loudest bass result -- by ear or with an SPL meter.
> 
> 
> Then move the sub to that location.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob and Karl! I didn't realise that sealed was sensitive to placement.Thanks for the direction-- but moving these subs is not an easy task!I guess I'll go to the gym to work out before I do the Measurements! The extra work will make it more worthwhile --Right? Thanks


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15856106
> 
> 
> ALL subs are sensitive to placement. Even inches matter in how a sub couples to the room.
> 
> 
> One commonly recommended technique is to move the sub to the center of your seating and play a bass test tone. Then go to your possible real placement locations for it and find which location is giving the loudest bass result -- by ear or with an SPL meter.
> 
> 
> Then move the sub to that location.
> 
> --Bob



This is the best technic, and it is a fact, so you are absolutely right, Bob.


But, let me add up just a simple point to perfecting this technique.

Raise the subwoofer to your ear level, by adding a base under the subwoofer,

so that the center of the driver is at ear level of the main listener.

And then, go on your knees to the floor, putting your ears at the same level

where your subwoofer(s) driver's center will be or was previously, and

check all positions possible, and your ears will speak to you where it's best.










And don't forget to put some music with good bass content.

And just be content after your final results, by enjoying the music.










______

Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikepebble* /forum/post/15856285
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob and Karl! I didn't realise that sealed was sensitive to placement.Thanks for the direction-- but moving these subs is not an easy task!I guess I'll go to the gym to work out before I do the Measurements! The extra work will make it more worthwhile --Right? Thanks



Seriously, your best bet is to just go ahead and do the ARC Measurements as Kal suggested and see if you even have to bother moving anything. Particularly since you have two subs you may find that you've already got enough deep bass where they are now, and ARC will take care of correcting the response for you.


If that doesn't work out, THEN you can bring in the forklift...










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15856279
> 
> 
> I am still waiting for my new D2v. According to my dealer Anthem told them today that the backordered units should be arriving late next week (2/27 +/-).
> 
> 
> Mike



Well apparently all it took was a nudge from me, and the distributor has updated their site. There's a new backorder report out now (dated Feb 17)!









http://www.amgav.com/docs/paradigmin...atusreport.pdf 


All versions of the AVM 50v and D2v are showing Feb 27.


Again, we're not really sure but we think that means all orders placed as of Feb 17 are expected to ship by Feb 27. Actual arrival at the dealer would depend on shipping delays.


It may be that the Feb 27 date refers to expected arrival at the dealer, but I don't see how Anthem could assume the same amount of shipping dealer to dealers in different parts of the country in making a report like this.


ETA: Of course since your order was previously placed, it might very well ship sooner.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/15854747
> 
> 
> My thought on this is that if there is an anti-node or null, it is fed by the same energy that drives a similar node or peak but at a different place. Thus, reducing the output at that frequency will reduce the magnitude of both the peak and the null, especially if the time decay of the filter is attended to.



I agree that there are likely to be peaks at the same frequency as nulls. If the peak is reduced by EQ, that does nothing to alter the physical mechanism that creates the null, just as neither does changing the playback volume.



> Quote:
> In fact, adding bass traps (which can only reduce available energy) to a room has the similar effect of reducing both peaks and nulls in its effective frequency range.



Bass traps do not work the same was as an equalizer. They actually diminish the amplitude of only the reflected wave(s), thus altering the interferences and hence resulting peaks/nulls. EQ cannot do that. Unfortunately for all of us.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I wonder whether the problems getting LVSE to work have to do with what we were doing with the Anthem just prior?


In my case I had just done a backup of my Setup menu using the new Settings Backup utility, and was then trying to do a backup of my Video Source Adjust menu with LVSE.


It is possible that power cycling the Anthem (perhaps requiring a full cycle, which includes turning the back panel power switch off/on) or a reboot of the Windows computer might be necessary to clear things.


I'd also consider that particular settings in the Video Source Adjust menu might give it some problem except I don't think anything changed in my setup between the last backup that worked and this one that didn't (which is the main reason I didn't push harder for a solution -- I already had a prior backup).


This will take some more detective work. Folks who are using LVSE, try to keep track of what you were doing just prior. And if LVSE doesn't cooperate, then report here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I got an email back from Nick at Anthem saying that the inability to get the Video Source Adjust menu (including test patterns) or the various on-screen text displays via HDMI 2 output are a hardware limitation. They won't be able to change that in future firmware.


On the other hand, problems getting 2-channel HDMI LPCM audio output on HDMI 2 is a bug that's giving them something of a fit at the moment as they are getting different results from different displays. This will definitely be fixed. As with HDMI 1, the only audio output available on HDMI 2 will be the stereo down-mix of whatever is currently playing on the Main path -- 2-channel HDMI LPCM at 48KHz. This is intended for folks who want to use stereo speakers built into a TV.


[The Setup menu appears just fine on HDMI 2. It is generated by different hardware.]


It turns out there is a rather cryptic reference to these HDMI 2 limitation on page 16 of the D2v and AVM 50v manual. I've suggested to Nick that this ought to be fleshed out a bit.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15856574
> 
> 
> I agree that there are likely to be peaks at the same frequency as nulls. If the peak is reduced by EQ, that does nothing to alter the physical mechanism that creates the null, just as neither does changing the playback volume.
> 
> 
> Bass traps do not work the same was as an equalizer. They actually diminish the amplitude of only the reflected wave(s), thus altering the interferences and hence resulting peaks/nulls. EQ cannot do that. Unfortunately for all of us.



There are, undoubtedly, advantages to physical acoustical treatment but the energy that creates the node is the same as that which creates the null. In fact, one cannot have one without the other. Conversely, one cannot reduce one without reducing the other.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15856792
> 
> 
> On the other hand, problems getting 2-channel HDMI LPCM audio output on HDMI 2 is a bug that's giving them something of a fit at the moment



Aha. I wonder if this was the issue driving me nuts last night!! I'm not home til tomorrow now so can't check before then. I hope it's that simple........


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15856616
> 
> 
> I wonder whether the problems getting LVSE to work have to do with what we were doing with the Anthem just prior?
> 
> 
> In my case I had just done a backup of my Setup menu using the new Settings Backup utility, and was then trying to do a backup of my Video Source Adjust menu with LVSE.
> 
> 
> It is possible that power cycling the Anthem (perhaps requiring a full cycle, which includes turning the back panel power switch off/on) or a reboot of the Windows computer might be necessary to clear things.
> 
> 
> I'd also consider that particular settings in the Video Source Adjust menu might give it some problem except I don't think anything changed in my setup between the last backup that worked and this one that didn't (which is the main reason I didn't push harder for a solution -- I already had a prior backup).
> 
> 
> This will take some more detective work. Folks who are using LVSE, try to keep track of what you were doing just prior. And if LVSE doesn't cooperate, then report here.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I did it in the same order as you. No reboot or turning off the D2v. Just Settings Backup and immediately, LVSE. Worked fine.

John


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/15857013
> 
> 
> There are, undoubtedly, advantages to physical acoustical treatment but the energy that creates the node is the same as that which creates the null. In fact, one cannot have one without the other. Conversely, one cannot reduce one without reducing the other.



I am missing your point. Of course the goal is to reduce both the peak and the null. Never said otherwise. All I am saying is EQ cannot get rid of a null, but treatments can.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15857459
> 
> 
> I am missing your point. Of course the goal is to reduce both the peak and the null. Never said otherwise.



I will try again. If the two identical signals combine in phase, you get a peak. If the same two combine out of phase, you get a null. If you reduce the incident energy at each point, the magnitude and duration of the interaction is reduced.


----------



## V7Sport73

Ok, I've had the D2V for about 2 weeks now. This is my first Anthem product. It has been a learning process. I've pretty much found my way through most of the menus and I'm feeling pretty comfortable with them. I've watched several movies and I'm very happy with the audio on this unit. However, I can't get my ARC to work. I don't have a 9 pin on any of my computers. I tried an old 9-pin to USB adapter I had and it didn't work. So I purchased an adapter from Bestbuy. I plugged that one in and the same thing. I've tried both my lab top and even hauled my desktop into the living room but I just keep getting Measurement Procedure Failed Could not find Valid Anthem processor What is up with that? I'm not a computer engineer. Neither of my adapters came with any software drivers and I can find anything on the Internet. So please any suggestions would be very welcome at this point.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *V7Sport73* /forum/post/15857846
> 
> 
> Ok, I've had the D2V for about 2 weeks now. This is my first Anthem product. It has been a learning process. I've pretty much found my way through most of the menus and I'm feeling pretty comfortable with them. I've watched several movies and I'm very happy with the audio on this unit. However, I can't get my ARC to work. I don't have a 9 pin on any of my computers. I tried an old 9-pin to USB adapter I had and it didn't work. So I purchased an adapter from Bestbuy. I plugged that one in and the same thing. I've tried both my lab top and even hauled my desktop into the living room but I just keep getting Measurement Procedure Failed Could not find Valid Anthem processor What is up with that? I'm not a computer engineer. Neither of my adapters came with any software drivers and I can find anything on the Internet. So please any suggestions would be very welcome at this point.



I have 2 adapters and both came with drivers on a disc. One of them I updated from the company's website. What does your PC say that the adapter is?


----------



## V7Sport73

My old adapter didn't have any marking on it so I puchased the new one. It is the Dynex from Bestbuy. I went to the Dynex website and they don't even show my adapter let alone have a driver for it. I'm planning on taking it back to Bestbuy tomorrow!


----------



## V7Sport73

Wait...... I spoke too soon. I just found one of those mini disks in the package. I over looked it. Let me go back and try this again. I'll keep you posted. Thanks!


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *V7Sport73* /forum/post/15857934
> 
> 
> Wait...... I spoke too soon. I just found one of those mini disks in the package. I over looked it. Let me go back and try this again. I'll keep you posted. Thanks!



Good. BTW, another ploy is to plug in the adapter and then do to your hardware manager and see what the PC thinks it is. Sometimes, the adapters are rebranded and may use the same drivers as others.


BTW, here's the link to the Dynex USB-serial driver: http://www.dynexproducts.com/skins/S...B9_Drivers.zip


----------



## V7Sport73

Thanks Kal, I just got everything working. If you hadn't said that yours had a driver I probably wouldn't have re-searched the box. I didn't see it the first time. As soon as I loaded it the Anthem started working. I am really excited about taking this to the next step and using the ARC system to adjust everything. I’ve got it going on my lab top. I only question I’ve got at this point is that I noticed on the package that my Adapter is only 115 KBPS. It was kind of expensive $34.00. I’ve seen others on ebay for just $7.00 and they claim 1 MBPS?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/15857521
> 
> 
> I will try again. If the two identical signals combine in phase, you get a peak. If the same two combine out of phase, you get a null. If you reduce the incident energy at each point, the magnitude and duration of the interaction is reduced.



Yes. Correct, as far as it goes. How does this relate to the notion of attempting to correct a null with EQ? Are you saying that applying an EQ notch at the peak/null frequency results in reducing the depth of the null?


----------



## Big Tex

Bob,


Quick update. After multiple sweeps and 20+ ARC calculations (5, 10, 15 & 20MHz, 1db, 2db and 3db room gain, ports or no ports) I've settled on two scenarios. After careful listening and analysis, the 20 MHz target runs on unported mains look and sound the best. There's no drop off in my bass anywhere when compared to 15 MHz or 10 MHz analysis. It's *amazing* how much better the surrounds and rears improve between 10 MHz and 20MHz calculations. The 20 MHz makes the surrounds fly...just incredible how 2.01 fixed this issue.


I'm going to load both calculations this weekend and have an ARC dual to the death. I've loaded ARC at 20 MHz with one sub (manually adjusting sub 2) and ARC at 20 MHz with front sub at phase 0 and rear sub at phase 120. The battle begins in 40 hours. Who's better at fixing the subsBig Tex or ARC


I did notice that my sub DB did drop off considerably from 1.25 to 2.01. So the other poster isn't the only one with that issue.


Thanks for ALL the help. All of the recommendations have made a huge difference.


Big Tex


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15858730
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Quick update. After multiple sweeps and 20+ ARC calculations (5, 10, 15 & 20MHz, 1db, 2db and 3db room gain, ports or no ports) I've settled on two scenarios. After careful listening and analysis, the 20 MHz target runs on unported mains look and sound the best. There's no drop off in my bass anywhere when compared to 15 MHz or 10 MHz analysis. It's *amazing* how much better the surrounds and rears improve between 10 MHz and 20MHz calculations. The 20 MHz makes the surrounds fly...just incredible how 2.01 fixed this issue.
> 
> 
> I'm going to load both calculations this weekend and have an ARC dual to the death. I've loaded ARC at 20 MHz with one sub (manually adjusting sub 2) and ARC at 20 MHz with front sub at phase 0 and rear sub at phase 120. The battle begins in 40 hours. Who's better at fixing the subsBig Tex or ARC
> 
> 
> I did notice that my sub DB did drop off considerably from 1.25 to 2.01. So the other poster isn't the only one with that issue.
> 
> 
> Thanks for ALL the help. All of the recommendations have made a huge difference.
> 
> 
> Big Tex



I guess Everything is BIGGER







in Texas!


It is NOT Mhz - it is Khz for the rest of us NOT in Texas


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15859657
> 
> 
> I guess Everything is BIGGER
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in Texas!
> 
> 
> It is NOT Mhz - it is Khz for the rest of us NOT in Texas



So true! eek:


I never been to Austin but I wwnt many to Dallas, Forth Worth, and San Antonia.


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15858226
> 
> 
> Yes. Correct, as far as it goes. How does this relate to the notion of attempting to correct a null with EQ? Are you saying that applying an EQ notch at the peak/null frequency results in reducing the depth of the null?



Not exactly. What I am saying is the applying a notch at the peak frequency for the measuring location will not only reduce that peak but shorten the decay at the locations with nulls (that is, the null will be shorter in time).


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15857459
> 
> 
> I am missing your point. Of course the goal is to reduce both the peak and the null. Never said otherwise. All I am saying is EQ cannot get rid of a null, but treatments can.



The best EQ is to move things around. Ourself or the sub(s).










________

Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Watched "Corpse Bride" Blu-Ray on the PS3 last night. It's a better movie than most reviewers give it credit for, although of course it suffers in comparison to "Nightmare Before Christmas".


The audio track is a full bit rate (640Kbps) DD5.1 ex "lossy" track -- decoded to LPCM in the PS3 of course. It sounded really REALLY good (a reminder that you don't have to have TrueHD or DTS-HD MA to get wonderful audio).


It's very hard to try to separate out how much of that is my new D2v (compared to my prior D2) or "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 compared to ARC V2.0.1 and ARC V1.2.5, but I'm going to give the nod to the new, "test" ARC. This is not a track that features a lot of LFE, but the new bass solution in "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 showed its outstanding properties anyway! And the clean clear highs are the best yet.


Of course the new ARC is for all ARC-capable Anthem units, so that's great news for current owners. I hope Anthem finishes up with this one and makes it "official" soon!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15859657
> 
> 
> I guess Everything is BIGGER
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in Texas!
> 
> 
> It is NOT Mhz - it is Khz for the rest of us NOT in Texas



"All the HIGHEST notes,

Neither sharp nor flat."


"The ear can't HEAR

As high as that!"


"Still, I ought to please

Any passing bat,

With my High Fi-del-i-ty!"


(Flanders and Swann, "Song of Reproduction")










--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15854168
> 
> 
> +100
> 
> 
> First thing I did was plug in port savers to each HDMI in/out port I'm using. My primary HDMI out port was actually slightly broken inside, and I was really worried, but I just pushed the little plastic thing together, and it works fine. That port-saver is never coming out.
> 
> 
> It's way too easy to destroy an HDMI port.



Did you get your port savers from Monoprice or elsewhere? Did you notice any impact on quality?


Thank you.


Mike


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kal Rubinson* /forum/post/15860182
> 
> 
> Not exactly. What I am saying is the applying a notch at the peak frequency for the measuring location will not only reduce that peak but shorten the decay at the locations with nulls (that is, the null will be shorter in time).



Oh. That's rather different from where this started, when you said >>the output at that frequency will reduce the magnitude of both the peak and the null,


----------



## mothaselin

I am confused, will the D2 play all of the current hd codecs, all of the dts Hd? Please advise.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/15861574
> 
> 
> I am confused, will the D2 play all of the current hd codecs, all of the dts Hd? Please advise.
> 
> 
> Thanks



The original D2 needs to be paired with a Blu-Ray player that itself decodes TrueHD or DTS-HD MA to HDMI LPCM (such as the PS3). When paired with such a player, yes the original D2 can play those audio tracks at full quality.


The just-released, new Anthem Statement D2v can be used the same way. But it also adds the ability to send the undecoded TrueHD or DTS-HD MA bitstreams over HDMI to the D2v for decoding in the D2v. There is no difference in audio quality but it allows the use of players that don't themselves do the decoding.


Personally, I recommend that the D2v still be paired with a player that does the decoding. Among other things, that means you can still take advantage of Blu-Ray features that require "audio mixing" in the player. Such mixing can only happen after decoding and it can also only happen in the player.

--Bob


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *V7Sport73* /forum/post/15858064
> 
> 
> Thanks Kal, I just got everything working. If you hadn't said that yours had a driver I probably wouldn't have re-searched the box. I didn't see it the first time. As soon as I loaded it the Anthem started working. I am really excited about taking this to the next step and using the ARC system to adjust everything. I've got it going on my lab top. I only question I've got at this point is that I noticed on the package that my Adapter is only 115 KBPS. It was kind of expensive $34.00. I've seen others on ebay for just $7.00 and they claim 1 MBPS?



Regular Serial on the PC is basically limited to 115k. The ebay claim would be overstated. That doesn't mean that your $34 one is worth $34, but if it works it works.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've had a chance to try a new, as yet unreleased, video calibration disc with the D2v. Since it is not yet released I'm limited in what I can say about it. Anthem also has this disc in their labs.


What I've found is that the D2v does an EXCELLENT job of de-interlacing video-based content at both SD and HD resolutions. Video-based content would include things like TV news and sports programming (SD and 1080i HD), many (but not all) TV shows on SD-DVD (when sent as 480i to the D2v), and "live concert" Blu-Ray discs (when sent as 1080i to the D2v).


Keep in mind that if the player (or set top box) is sending 480p, 720p, or 1080p to the D2v then it is the player (or set top box) that is doing the de-interlacing -- not the D2v.


The video-based de-interlacing tests check the ability of the D2v to perform the highest quality motion and edge adaptive de-interlacing. This is necessary because video-based content is made up of interlaced half-frames ("fields") that are recorded slightly separated in time -- one after the other. Which means the two fields making up each frame represent a slightly motion-blurred double exposure of the real world. Thus the best de-interlacing requires detecting motion in different parts of the image and handling each part of the image accordingly.


---------------------------------------------


The new VXP video processor in the D2v is also supposed to have enhanced ability to handle less common "repeat cadences" when de-interlacing film-based content -- better even than the processor in the original D2. What I've discovered is that this is not working yet. Some of the less common repeat cadences are not yet detected. Nick at Anthem has confirmed that the current firmware does not yet turn on the advanced cadence detection feature of the VXP, but that this is coming soon.


[TECHNICAL NOTE: "Repeat cadences" are the way the slower frames-per-second rates of movie film and low cost animation are raised to the higher frames-per-second rate used for TV. See the Technology and Terminology post links collected in the first post of this thread for more details. If the de-interlacer doesn't properly detect the repeat cadence currently in use, de-interlacing gets screwed up because the wrong fields are paired together to make up each frame.]


Cadence detection aside, the D2v handles perfectly all cases of "bad edits" -- glitches in the video stream that screw up the current repeat cadence.


Film-based content would include most movies on SDTV or SD-DVD (when sending 480i to the D2v), and on HDTV (when sending 1080i to the D2v). It would also include movies from Blu-Ray discs if the player is set to output 1080i. Many popular broadcast TV series are also captured at film frame rates both for broadcast and for re-release on disc.


Again, if the player or set top box is sending 480p, 720p, or 1080p to the D2v then the D2v is not doing the de-interlacing.


The most commonly used film content repeat cadences ARE detected properly, and properly de-interlaced by the D2v today.


Blu-Ray movies on disc as 1080p/24 (e.g., feature films) do not need de-interlacing unless the player is set to RE-interlace them and output them as 1080i. Of course, with the D2v the player should be set to send 1080p/24 to the D2v for such movies so neither the player nor the D2v has any de-interlacing to do. [NOTE: Do this even if your display is not able to handle 1080p/24 input. The D2v will convert 1080p24 from the player perfectly to whatever input your display accepts -- e.g., 768p/60 or 1080p/60.]


------------------------------------------------


I also tested my PS3.


The PS3 is badly broken when it comes to de-interlacing video-based SD content. It fails all but one of the tests, and does poorly on that one. This is made worse by the fact that the PS3 doesn't offer HDMI 480i output, so you can't send this stuff over to the D2v for de-interlacing.


[NOTE: This does *NOT* mean the PS3 won't de-interlace such content. It just means it doesn't do it very well and that de-interlacing artifacts will appear from time to time.]


The PS3 doesn't try to de-interlace 1080i Blu-Ray content to 1080p at all, so that issue doesn't come up. It sends 1080i to the D2v for such discs, and the D2v takes it from there.


As for film-based content, the PS3 handles only two cadences correctly -- the most vanilla cadence (the one most commonly used for feature films) and the cadence most commonly used for computer graphics.


And for the bad edits tests, the PS3 fails every last one of them.


Again, this is not an issue for Blu-Ray content. The PS3 does not de-interlace 1080i Blu-Ray discs, and 1080p/24 Blu-Ray discs (i.e, most movies) don't need any de-interlacing.


The bottom line is that the PS3 is still a great Blu-Ray player (when paired with the D2v for de-interlacing of 1080i Blu-Ray discs) but is not a very good SD-DVD player and should never be used to play video-based SD-DVDs (as for example DVDs of video-based TV shows) if you care about imaging quality. [NOTE: Many popular TV series are actually captured at film frame rates, and so they are released on SD-DVD as film-based content.]


Unfortunately this also means the PS3 has issues playing SD "extras" content from Blu-Ray discs unless they are recorded film-based (as many are) and using the most vanilla film-based repeat cadence.


This is one reason I continue to recommend the PS3 be used only as a Blu-Ray player. Pair it with another player for SD-DVDs. Oppo makes nice SD-DVD players for example.


-------------------------------------------------------------------


ETA: IMPORTANT ADDITIONAL NOTE -- if a set top box is set to output 1080i for SDTV programs, or if an upscaling SD DVD player is set to output 1080i for SD-DVD discs, then it is STILL doing the de-interlacing of the SD content! The process goes 480i -> 480p (i.e., de-interlacing) -> 1080p (i.e., scaling) -> 1080i (i.e., re-interlacing for output). The D2v de-interlaces that scaled 1080i input as described above, but the damage done by any faulty 480i to 480p de-interlacing in the set top box or upscaling SD-DVD player is still in there and can't be corrected. So you need to send 480i to the D2v from those or live with how good the SD de-interlacing is in those. Using 1080i output from them does not get you around this.


Due to HDMI handshake delays when switching between SD and HD cable/satellite channels (when the set top box is set to change video output resolutions for each), and due to bugs in HDMI 480i output from some set top boxes (Comcast and Motorola, I'm sneering at you now!), many folks use 1080i output for all channels from their set top boxes. Just understand that when viewing SD channels, that means that the set top box is doing this de-interlacing.

--Bob


----------



## Kal Rubinson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/15861523
> 
> 
> Oh. That's rather different from where this started, when you said >>the output at that frequency will reduce the magnitude of both the peak and the null,


----------



## mikepebble

Well Bob I took your advice and this afternoon I tried to run some new measurements after moving the speakers around.I got all set up-- brought the computer to the theatre room opened up the program(arc Ver 1.25)Ver. 2.01 is this weekend project.Started measures --set in #of speakers hit start --it initialised Recognized my serial # turned the D2 on ,a few seconds passed ,I heard A click --Then the computer said program failed because it could not turn the unit on!!!

Now the unit on it's own does not respond to the remote and when on ,it will power itself off.I've switched it off from the back -- waited and then switched it back but it is not responding.Have I pressed a wrong button combo on the remote -- is there some procedure to return to normal?

Need help BIG TiME Thyanks Mikepebble


----------



## "MIKEY"




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15862354
> 
> 
> I've had a chance to try a new, as yet unreleased, video calibration disc with the D2v. Since it is not yet released I'm limited in what I can say about it. Anthem also has this disc in their labs.
> 
> 
> What I've found is that the D2v does an EXCELLENT job of de-interlacing video-based content at both SD and HD resolutions. Video-based content would include things like TV news and sports programming (SD and 1080i HD), many (but not all) TV shows on SD-DVD (when sent as 480i to the D2v), and "live concert" Blu-Ray discs (when sent as 1080i to the D2v).
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that if the player (or set top box) is sending 480p, 720p, or 1080p to the D2v then it is the player (or set top box) that is doing the de-interlacing -- not the D2v.
> 
> 
> The video-based de-interlacing tests check the ability of the D2v to perform the highest quality motion and edge adaptive de-interlacing. This is necessary because video-based content is made up of interlaced half-frames ("fields") that are recorded slightly separated in time -- one after the other. Which means the two fields making up each frame represent a slightly motion-blurred double exposure of the real world. Thus the best de-interlacing requires detecting motion in different parts of the image and handling each part of the image accordingly.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The new VXP video processor in the D2v is also supposed to have enhanced ability to handle less common "repeat cadences" when de-interlacing film-based content -- better even than the processor in the original D2. What I've discovered is that this is not working yet. Some of the less common repeat cadences are not yet detected. Nick at Anthem has confirmed that the current firmware does not yet turn on the advanced cadence detection feature of the VXP, but that this is coming soon.
> 
> 
> [TECHNICAL NOTE: "Repeat cadences" are the way the slower frames-per-second rates of movie film and low cost animation are raised to the higher frames-per-second rate used for TV. See the Technology and Terminology post links collected in the first post of this thread for more details. If the de-interlacer doesn't properly detect the repeat cadence currently in use, de-interlacing gets screwed up because the wrong fields are paired together to make up each frame.]
> 
> 
> Cadence detection aside, the D2v handles perfectly all cases of "bad edits" -- glitches in the video stream that screw up the current repeat cadence.
> 
> 
> Film-based content would include most movies on SDTV or SD-DVD (when sending 480i to the D2v), and on HDTV (when sending 1080i to the D2v). It would also include movies from Blu-Ray discs if the player is set to output 1080i. Many popular broadcast TV series are also captured at film frame rates both for broadcast and for re-release on disc.
> 
> 
> Again, if the player or set top box is sending 480p, 720p, or 1080p to the D2v then the D2v is not doing the de-interlacing.
> 
> 
> The most commonly used film content repeat cadences ARE detected properly, and properly de-interlaced by the D2v today.
> 
> 
> Blu-Ray movies on disc as 1080p/24 (e.g., feature films) do not need de-interlacing unless the player is set to RE-interlace them and output them as 1080i. Of course, with the D2v the player should be set to send 1080p/24 to the D2v for such movies so neither the player nor the D2v has any de-interlacing to do. [NOTE: Do this even if your display is not able to handle 1080p/24 input. The D2v will convert 1080p24 from the player perfectly to whatever input your display accepts -- e.g., 768p/60 or 1080p/60.]
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I also tested my PS3.
> 
> 
> The PS3 is badly broken when it comes to de-interlacing video-based SD content. It fails all but one of the tests, and does poorly on that one. This is made worse by the fact that the PS3 doesn't offer HDMI 480i output, so you can't send this stuff over to the D2v for de-interlacing.
> 
> 
> [NOTE: This does *NOT* mean the PS3 won't de-interlace such content. It just means it doesn't do it very well and that de-interlacing artifacts will appear from time to time.]
> 
> 
> The PS3 doesn't try to de-interlace 1080i Blu-Ray content to 1080p at all, so that issue doesn't come up. It sends 1080i to the D2v for such discs, and the D2v takes it from there.
> 
> 
> As for film-based content, the PS3 handles only two cadences correctly -- the most vanilla cadence (the one most commonly used for feature films) and the cadence most commonly used for computer graphics.
> 
> 
> And for the bad edits tests, the PS3 fails every last one of them.
> 
> 
> Again, this is not an issue for Blu-Ray content. The PS3 does not de-interlace 1080i Blu-Ray discs, and 1080p/24 Blu-Ray discs (i.e, most movies) don't need any de-interlacing.
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that the PS3 is still a great Blu-Ray player (when paired with the D2v for de-interlacing of 1080i Blu-Ray discs) but is not a very good SD-DVD player and should never be used to play video-based SD-DVDs (as for example DVDs of video-based TV shows) if you care about imaging quality. [NOTE: Many popular TV series are actually captured at film frame rates, and so they are released on SD-DVD as film-based content.]
> 
> 
> Unfortunately this also means the PS3 has issues playing SD "extras" content from Blu-Ray discs unless they are recorded film-based (as many are) and using the most vanilla film-based repeat cadence.
> 
> 
> This is one reason I continue to recommend the PS3 be used only as a Blu-Ray player. Pair it with another player for SD-DVDs. Oppo makes nice SD-DVD players for example.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: IMPORTANT ADDITIONAL NOTE -- if a set top box is set to output 1080i for SDTV programs, or if an upscaling SD DVD player is set to output 1080i for SD-DVD discs, then it is STILL doing the de-interlacing of the SD content! The process goes 480i -> 480p (i.e., de-interlacing) -> 1080p (i.e., scaling) -> 1080i (i.e., re-interlacing for output). The D2v de-interlaces that scaled 1080i input as described above, but the damage done by any faulty 480i to 480p de-interlacing in the set top box or upscaling SD-DVD player is still in there and can't be corrected. So you need to send 480i to the D2v from those or live with how good the SD de-interlacing is in those. Using 1080i output from them does not get you around this.
> 
> 
> Due to HDMI handshake delays when switching between SD and HD cable/satellite channels (when the set top box is set to change video output resolutions for each), and due to bugs in HDMI 480i output from some set top boxes (Comcast and Motorola, I'm sneering at you now!), many folks use 1080i output for all channels from their set top boxes. Just understand that when viewing SD channels, that means that the set top box is doing this de-interlacing.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:

I've been sending 1080i via HDMI with SD-DVD material from a Pioneer BDP 51 player to the D2 with fantastic results compared to an older model Oppo. Much better sound and a cleaner/sharper picture.


The Pioneer player does not decode DTS HD MA, but if I upgrade to the D2v, will the D2v decode DTS HD MA?


Also, since I'm sending 1080i to the D2 with SD-DVD material, is the D2 doing anything?


Thanks again for sharing your depth of A/V knowledge.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/15865202
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> I've been sending 1080i via HDMI with SD-DVD material from a Pioneer BDP 51 player to the D2 with fantastic results compared to an older model Oppo. Much better sound and a cleaner/sharper picture.
> 
> 
> The Pioneer player does not decode DTS HD MA, but if I upgrade to the D2v, will the D2v decode DTS HD MA?
> 
> 
> Also, since I'm sending 1080i to the D2 with SD-DVD material, is the D2 doing anything?
> 
> 
> Thanks again for sharing your depth of A/V knowledge.



Yes the D2v and AVM 50v both decode DTS-HD MA sent in as HDMI bitstreams.


And yes the video processor is active in the D2 even with 1080i or 1080p input video.


For example, you can do the full Custom Gamma Correction curves processing, or custom Cropping for a Constant Image Height projection setup. Or video level adjustments, or noise reduction, or detail enhancement, etc. The whole shebang.


Really the only thing you are not getting is the D2 (or D2v's) de-interlacing of the original, 480i SD content and the scaling of that.


I thought that particular Pioneer was able to send out HDMI 480i for SD-DVD discs. If so, you ought to give that a try too. Then you can pick whichever way you like better.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/15865202
> 
> 
> The Pioneer player (BDP 51) does not decode DTS HD MA...



Isn't is supposed to in a couple months with a firmware upgrade?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikepebble* /forum/post/15864726
> 
> 
> Well Bob I took your advice and this afternoon I tried to run some new measurements after moving the speakers around.I got all set up-- brought the computer to the theatre room opened up the program(arc Ver 1.25)Ver. 2.01 is this weekend project.Started measures --set in #of speakers hit start --it initialised Recognized my serial # turned the D2 on ,a few seconds passed ,I heard A click --Then the computer said program failed because it could not turn the unit on!!!
> 
> Now the unit on it's own does not respond to the remote and when on ,it will power itself off.I've switched it off from the back -- waited and then switched it back but it is not responding.Have I pressed a wrong button combo on the remote -- is there some procedure to return to normal?
> 
> Need help BIG TiME Thyanks Mikepebble



Mike,

Power off the D2 using the back panel switch. Shut down your computer. Disconnect the serial cable from the computer.


Now check carefully that you haven't shorted any connections to or from the D2 in the course of attaching the serial cable previously or anything else you did while setting up to run ARC. There are not many things that can keep the unit from powering up, but shorted cables are one of them. (Faulty or low-voltage wall power is another.)


Leaving the serial cable disconnected, now see if you can power up the D2. Turn on its back power switch and then press the Main button on the front panel rather then using the remote. If that worked, check things out for basic function and then try again with ARC.


If not you will need to contact Anthem tech support in the morning. They will likely suggest you reload the V1.33 firmware into the D2, but they may want to check a few other things first.


After confirming the unit serial number (which ARC can do while the unit is powered off), the next thing that ARC does is send elementary serial commands to turn on the unit, and configure things to run the ARC test sweep tones. All very simple stuff.


So I'm thinking that something got shorted.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15866182
> 
> 
> Isn't is supposed to in a couple months with a firmware upgrade?



Late March or early April is the latest estimate of internal DTS-HDMA decoding in the Pioneer 151/05/09 models.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I tried this originally with a Keyspan USA-19HS USB to serial adapter from XP running in Fusion, it did some signaling but would not work. I tried the same adapter on my native XP Dell desktop and it worked fine.


Finally got around to working on this again, loaded ARC 2.0.1 this time using a Belkin F5U409 USB to serial adapter. This seems to have worked fine from inside Fusion with the same XP image.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/14577981
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried an iMac with Leopard, the Keyspan adapter, and Vista with ARC using VMware Fusion instead of BootCamp?


----------



## DEHAAS

I know everybody is excited about the v2 processor series, but have the firmware development for the D2/AVM50 completely stopped? It has been a very long time since we have seen any progress.


----------



## mikepebble

Thanks Bob! I can power up the unit ,but is still very slow.Disconnected computer and cable.Tried a re-start with a new serial cable but got the same response from the unit.Shut it all down and disconnected computer from unit. Treid to power and run unit in dvd source.Unit did power up and after a long ----time ,dvd source could be seen on the screen.However no sound at all.Treid to check sound levels on display but took forever to get there and then I was unable to alter any settings.Even Noise level on manual would not produce sound .

I'll get in touch with tech s. when they open Thanks!


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15866134
> 
> 
> Yes the D2v and AVM 50v both decode DTS-HD MA sent in as HDMI bitstreams.
> 
> 
> And yes the video processor is active in the D2 even with 1080i or 1080p input video.
> 
> 
> For example, you can do the full Custom Gamma Correction curves processing, or custom Cropping for a Constant Image Height projection setup. Or video level adjustments, or noise reduction, or detail enhancement, etc. The whole shebang.
> 
> *Really the only thing you are not getting is the D2 (or D2v's) de-interlacing of the original, 480i SD content and the scaling of that.*
> 
> 
> I thought that particular Pioneer was able to send out HDMI 480i for SD-DVD discs. If so, you ought to give that a try too. Then you can pick whichever way you like better.
> 
> --Bob



But the D2v is deinterlacing the 1080i content, isn't it? (If he has output set to 1080p)


I've noticed a substantial visual improvement in 1080i content since I got the D2v. I have a Sony Black Pearl (VW60), which is supposed to be pretty good at 1080i->p on it's own, but the D2v is leagues better.


Also, does the VP in the D2v do something special with motion blur? It seems like motion blur is less noticable, but perhaps that's just a placebo effect for me, perhaps related to the better 1080i->p deinterlacing, at least for 1080i source content.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15861499
> 
> 
> Did you get your port savers from Monoprice or elsewhere? Did you notice any impact on quality?
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> Mike



From monoprice. No issue with image quality at all (i.e. no sparklies or handshake delays).


I use them on everything, including all my D2v HDMI runs (from 3-feet to 35-feet), and on my other rooms HDMI runs (from 50-feet to 131-feet).


So the port-savers (or "whips" as I tend to call them) cause no image issues on HDMI from 3-feet to 131-feet.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikepebble* /forum/post/15868308
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob! I can power up the unit ,but is still very slow.Disconnected computer and cable.Tried a re-start with a new serial cable but got the same response from the unit.Shut it all down and disconnected computer from unit. Treid to power and run unit in dvd source.Unit did power up and after a long ----time ,dvd source could be seen on the screen.However no sound at all.Treid to check sound levels on display but took forever to get there and then I was unable to alter any settings.Even Noise level on manual would not produce sound .
> 
> I'll get in touch with tech s. when they open Thanks!



I'm not sure what causes this problem, but slow power up and sluggishness after power up have been reported a few times here. It appears to be related, somehow, to removing wall power from the unit -- although all reports we've had here like that indicate unplugging the unit for over a week as opposed to just a short amount of time. This is not confirmed.


In any event, re-installing the V1.33 firmware (D2 or AVM 50) has always been the cure. Some folks have found they need to use the Flash Eraser utility (a Windows application available from Anthem tech support) to reset the unit completely before it will take accept the firmware install.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15869235
> 
> 
> But the D2v is deinterlacing the 1080i content, isn't it? (If he has output set to 1080p)
> 
> 
> I've noticed a substantial visual improvement in 1080i content since I got the D2v. I have a Sony Black Pearl (VW60), which is supposed to be pretty good at 1080i->p on it's own, but the D2v is leagues better.
> 
> 
> Also, does the VP in the D2v do something special with motion blur? It seems like motion blur is less noticable, but perhaps that's just a placebo effect for me, perhaps related to the better 1080i->p deinterlacing, at least for 1080i source content.



Right, but as I said in my long post above, if you are viewing SD content sent as 1080i to the Anthem then there are actually TWO deinterlacing passes going on. The player or set top box has to deinterlace 480i to 480p prior to scaling it up. It then RE-interlaces that for output as 1080i and the Anthem de-interlaces that once again to 1080p for internal processing (regardless of what you have set for video output to your display). Any damage done during the first de-interlacing to 480p remains in the imaging.


----------------------------------------------


What most people think of as motion blur is an artifact of slow pixel response in the display (typical of LCD displays). There's nothing that an external video processor can do about that.


However the 1080i video-based content de-interlacing in the Anthem is pixel based motion adaptive, which means you won't be getting de-interlacing artifacts in scenes with moving, near-horizontal edges. That may be what you are seeing.


There are also some notorious 1080p displays out there which do a particularly awful job of de-interlacing 1080i. What they do is 1080i -> 540p -> 1080p which has the effect of discarding half of the vertical resolution. If you are so unfortunate as to have such a display, the results of letting the Anthem do the de-interlacing to 1080p will look MUCH better.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/15867473
> 
> 
> I tried this originally with a Keyspan USA-19HS USB to serial adapter from XP running in Fusion, it did some signaling but would not work. I tried the same adapter on my native XP Dell desktop and it worked fine.
> 
> 
> Finally got around to working on this again, loaded ARC 2.0.1 this time using a Belkin F5U409 USB to serial adapter. This seems to have worked fine from inside Fusion with the same XP image.



How 'bout that! Good to know.


When it failed using the Keyspan adapter, did you by any chance go to the Keyspan support site to confirm the driver that came with the adapter was actually the latest driver for your version of XP?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DEHAAS* /forum/post/15868062
> 
> 
> I know everybody is excited about the v2 processor series, but have the firmware development for the D2/AVM50 completely stopped? It has been a very long time since we have seen any progress.



Since the D2v started shipping, Nick at Anthem has confirmed that a V1.34 firmware release is in progress for the D2 and AVM 50. It will certainly include some bug fixes. I don't yet know what else it might include.


Nick has also confirmed that work has started up again on the new HDMI code for the D2 and AVM 50 that was put out as a "test" version briefly last summer. I don't yet know whether that will make it into the V1.34 release.

--Bob


----------



## akopperl

I'm in the process of setting up my system with an AVM50v (came with v2.02). I had a couple of questions.


I will be hooking up Definitive Tech STS speakers with powered subwoofers. In the Def Tech manual, they state that you should use a Y adapter to connect both speakers LFE input to your processor. With the Anthem, can I avoid using the Y adapter and connect one speaker to sub 1 and the other to sub 2? Also, if I use both sub inputs - do I choose 1 sub or 2 subs in the Anthem setup?


Thanks


----------



## mothaselin

I understand but I will not be concerned with a Blu-Ray player but a device that will play those files over HDMI and I need all of the codecs and types to work. Will the D2 do what some other pre processors do, will it take all of the new stuff and give me what I am looking for??



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15861800
> 
> 
> The original D2 needs to be paired with a Blu-Ray player that itself decodes TrueHD or DTS-HD MA to HDMI LPCM (such as the PS3). When paired with such a player, yes the original D2 can play those audio tracks at full quality.
> 
> 
> The just-released, new Anthem Statement D2v can be used the same way. But it also adds the ability to send the undecoded TrueHD or DTS-HD MA bitstreams over HDMI to the D2v for decoding in the D2v. There is no difference in audio quality but it allows the use of players that don't themselves do the decoding.
> 
> 
> Personally, I recommend that the D2v still be paired with a player that does the decoding. Among other things, that means you can still take advantage of Blu-Ray features that require "audio mixing" in the player. Such mixing can only happen after decoding and it can also only happen in the player.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Video Source Adjust Settings not being Applied Properly (D2v)*


I posted earlier on the YCbCr gray scale problems from the PS3 that persist even in the "test" V2.02c firmware for the D2v. As I reported, this has now been nailed down to a bug in implementation of the Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space > Extended RGB setting, and a fix is due out, at least as "test" firmware, any day now. The workaround is to check Studio RGB (along with Auto YCbCr) in that menu and to set RGB = Limited in the PS3.


At the same time I mentioned that I was also getting two different YCbCr gray scale results from my Comcast/Motorola set top box. The gray scale most commonly changes when switching from HD to SD channels. The "wrong" result is only a couple steps of Video Source Adjust > Brightness too high -- not nearly as dramatic as the error from the PS3 -- and the Extended RGB setting was not in use for that input, so this issue was still a puzzle.


When the error happens, cycling the D2v's input away from the Comcast and back to the Comcast (which forces a new HDMI handshake) fixes the problem, so this had the flavor of an HDMI handshake issue.


But I currently have my Comcast box set to output 1080i for both HD and SD content (due to other bugs in the Comcast box's 480i output) and so there should not be a new HDMI handshake when switching between channels since the output resolution doesn't change. And indeed there is no handshake delay when doing that.


So this was even more of a puzzle. In fact I was beginning to become convinced that this was just another bug in the Comcast box itself that I had only now noticed because of the closer look I'm taking with my new D2v.


------------------------------------------------


Last night I discovered that when the gray scale was "wrong" from the Comcast box that my Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Edges ON pixel value was ALSO not being properly applied. Garbage at the top of the image that should have been cropped out by that setting was not getting cropped out.


And what's more, if you then went into Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Edges On and changed the pixel value in there, even by just 1 pixel, that the whole problem instantly fixed itself! The gray scale became "correct" and the full value of the Edges On setting was now applied -- i.e., you could reduce that back by 1 pixel to the original setting you had in there and the noise at the top of the image was now properly removed!


-----------------------------------------


What this means is that something is going on when switching between HD and SD channels that causes the current settings in Video Source Adjust for that input to not be properly applied. Changing the Edges On value causes ALL the settings to be properly applied again.


So this is definitely a bug in the D2v. Anthem has been alerted.


ETA: So far this problem appears to be limited to HDMI from the Comcast box. I've not been able to make either the YCbCr or the Edges On stuff fail when using Component video (and Optical Digital Audio) from the Comcast. That means a workaround, if you too are seeing this problem, is to use Component video from the set top box until Anthem releases a fix.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/15869991
> 
> 
> I understand but I will not be concerned with a Blu-Ray player but a device that will play those files over HDMI and I need all of the codecs and types to work. Will the D2 do what some other pre processors do, will it take all of the new stuff and give me what I am looking for??



Yes, the new D2v and AVM 50v both include decoding of HDMI bitstream audio input for all of the new audio formats found on Blu-Ray discs (Dolby+, TrueHD, DTS-HD HR, and DTS-HD MA). They also support HDMI LPCM input for up to 7.1 channels at up to 192KHz/24bit per channel, which will be useful when playing raw LPCM tracks.


In either case, full audio processing (including ARC) is supported.


The new "Dolby Volume" feature will also be added later as a free firmware upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/15869918
> 
> 
> I'm in the process of setting up my system with an AVM50v (came with v2.02). I had a couple of questions.
> 
> 
> I will be hooking up Definitive Tech STS speakers with powered subwoofers. In the Def Tech manual, they state that you should use a Y adapter to connect both speakers LFE input to your processor. With the Anthem, can I avoid using the Y adapter and connect one speaker to sub 1 and the other to sub 2? Also, if I use both sub inputs - do I choose 1 sub or 2 subs in the Anthem setup?
> 
> 
> Thanks



The answer depends on whether these powered subs are intended to be used as "satellite" subs or as standalone subs. A "satellite" sub is really part of the main speaker it is attached to -- just in a different box. One feed wire goes to the sub and speaker combo and the sub and speaker themselves decide how much audio will be played by the sub and how much by the attached speaker.


A standalone sub is just a normal sub. On each side, one feed wire goes to the main speaker and a separate feed wire goes to the sub with no direct connection between the main speaker and sub. The Anthem decides how much audio is played by the main speaker and how much is played by the sub.


If these are standalone subs then of course you will use the normal LF/RF outputs to the main speakers. Meanwhile you can indeed use the Sub 1 and Sub 2 outputs -- one to each sub. Done this way, if you are not using ARC you should set your speaker configuration to "2 subs". However if you DO intend to use ARC you must set your speaker configuration to "1 sub". See Section 3.3 of the Manual. In addition, there are some extra steps you should consider doing to get the Polarity/Phase settings correct for both of your pair of subs BEFORE you do your ARC Measurements. See the ARC related links collected in the first post of this thread. Folks with only one sub can defer doing this until after they have ARC set up, but folks with two or more subs must do this before running ARC Measurements because ARC will play all of the standalone subs at the same time when doing its Measurements.


ETA: NOTE both sub outputs are still live when you set "1 Sub". The "1 Sub" vs. "2 Subs" setting has to do with level calibration.


If, on the other hand, these are "satellite" subs, then you should have only one feed wire going to the sub/main speaker combo on each side -- the LF or RF output from the Anthem. There will also be a direct connection between the speaker and its attached, satellite sub. In the Setup > Speaker Configuration menu you specify that you have NO subwoofers. The Anthem then treats the combo of main speaker and sub on each side as if it was a "full range" speaker. Unlike many other pre-pros, when set up this way the Anthem does not discard the LFE channel but instead mixes it into the output going out on the LF/RF jacks. So your "full range" sub/speaker combo on each side will see both the normal and LFE audio on that one feed wire. NOTE: Satellite subs often include an extra LFE input for use with pre-pros that are not as smart as the Anthem, so that you can separately feed LFE to the sub and not just lose it outright. You don't need to do this with the Anthem.


The "satellite" sub/speaker combos will also get sent any bass steered from the other main speakers just as happens if you had normal, all in one box, full range LF/RF speakers and no sub.


So it really all depends on how the manufacturer recommends you use those two subs with those two main speakers -- either as satellites or as standalone subs.

--Bob


----------



## scanido

Hello All,


I am in the midst of deciding on what processor to get and have narrowed it down to the Mcintosh MX120 and Anthem AVM50v2. I can get either for a relatively good price. Unfortunately I cannot afford the D2v2 otherwise it would be a no brainier for me to get that one. As well, i cannot audition either processor to get a good idea of how it would integrate with my system.


If it matters here is what i have thus far:


Pioneer PDP-5060 plasma

B&W 803S, HTM3S, SCMS

McIntosh MC205 amp

Playstation3


What i value most in my next processor is SOUND QUALITY. Since the MX120 does not process the HD audio via HDMI, I would be using a Bluray player that would output via analog.


I think the features swaying me now towards the MX120 are the matching looks to my MC205 and the Sound quality, but i am open to others opinions. I have heard that the MX120 is smoother sounding and would go well with my speakers, but where does the AVM50 come in?


Has anyone compared the Sound quality of any of the MX series processors to the Anthems?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I have no experience with that McIntosh but one thing you really ought to consider is that the AVM 50v comes bundled with Anthem Room Correction, ARC.


If you read back in the posts here, I think you will discover that ARC has yielded dramatic audio improvements for many of the folks here.

--Bob


----------



## mothaselin

Bob, you are great and thanks so much for that info.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15870061
> 
> 
> Yes, the new D2v and AVM 50v both include decoding of HDMI bitstream audio input for all of the new audio formats found on Blu-Ray discs (Dolby+, TrueHD, DTS-HD HR, and DTS-HD MA). They also support HDMI LPCM input for up to 7.1 channels at up to 192KHz/24bit per channel, which will be useful when playing raw LPCM tracks.
> 
> 
> In either case, full audio processing (including ARC) is supported.
> 
> 
> The new "Dolby Volume" feature will also be added later as a free firmware upgrade.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15870061
> 
> 
> Yes, the new D2v and AVM 50v both include decoding of HDMI bitstream audio input for all of the new audio formats found on Blu-Ray discs (Dolby+, TrueHD, DTS-HD HR, and DTS-HD MA). They also support HDMI LPCM input for up to 7.1 channels at up to 192KHz/24bit per channel, which will be useful when playing raw LPCM tracks.
> 
> 
> In either case, full audio processing (including ARC) is supported. ....--Bob



They say there's no dumb question -- but here goes. I understand that the

D2v/Avm50v will will handle 7.1 *decoded* discreet channels of audio sent over HDMI. I also understand that it will only handle 5.1 channels of discreet audio over analog (still only 5.1 analog inputs) and will matrix the other 2 channels if you have 2 back channels. That's fine since I wouldn't use analog inputs if I had the D2.


I know Bob still recommends letting the player do the decoding. However, if the audio is not decoded in the player and is sent over HDMI in DTS MA 7.1 (Hairspray) or Dolby Digital HD 7.1 will the D2 decode all 7.1 discreet channels and send them to all speakers (ie, no matrixing) if you have 7 speakers plus a sub? Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/15871739
> 
> 
> They say there's no dumb question -- but here goes. I understand that the
> 
> D2v/Avm50v will will handle 7.1 *decoded* discreet channels of audio sent over HDMI. I also understand that it will only handle 5.1 channels of discreet audio over analog (still only 5.1 analog inputs) and will matrix the other 2 channels if you have 2 back channels. That's fine since I wouldn't use analog inputs if I had the D2.
> 
> 
> I know Bob still recommends letting the player do the decoding. However, if the audio is not decoded in the player and is sent over HDMI in DTS MA 7.1 (Hairspray) or Dolby Digital HD 7.1 will the D2 decode all 7.1 discreet channels and send them to all speakers (ie, no matrixing) if you have 7 speakers plus a sub? Thanks.



Be careful to distinguish the original D2 from the new D2v. The original D2 is limited to 5.1 channel input both for analog and digital and does not decode the new audio formats from Blu-Ray discs (i.e., you have to use a player that decodes those to 5.1 channel HDMI LPCM).


The new D2v allows 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM input and also decodes 7.1 channel audio track bitstreams from the new audio formats to 7.1 discrete channels. However its multi-channel analog input is still limited to 5.1 channels.


Both units can also raise 5.1 channel input to 7.1 speaker output using, for example, PLIIx.

--Bob


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15871884
> 
> 
> Be careful to distinguish the original D2 from the new D2v. The original D2 is limited to 5.1 channel input both for analog and digital and does not decode the new audio formats from Blu-Ray discs (i.e., you have to use a player that decodes those to 5.1 channel HDMI LPCM).
> 
> 
> The new D2v allows 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM input and also decodes 7.1 channel audio track bitstreams from the new audio formats to 7.1 discrete channels. However its multi-channel analog input is still limited to 5.1 channels.
> 
> 
> Both units can also raise 5.1 channel input to 7.1 speaker output using, for example, PLIIx.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. That's what I assumed. It only makes sense, but it never hurts to double check.


----------



## DOBE

Bob: Why do you still think it's best to let the advanced audio formats be decoded in the player rather than in the D2v or AVM50v? Wouldn't the D2v do a better job of decoding the advanced audio than most average bluray players?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/15871969
> 
> 
> Bob: Why do you still think it's best to let the advanced audio formats be decoded in the player rather than in the D2v or AVM50v? Wouldn't the D2v do a better job of decoding the advanced audio than most average bluray players?



Bugs aside, there's no difference in audio quality whether the decoding is done in the player or the D2v. Both decode to the same LPCM. This is what it means for these tracks to be "lossless" -- the LPCM that comes out of the decoder is bit for bit identical to the LPCM that went into the encoder in the studio. The encoding and decoding certifications imposed by Dolby Labs and DTS are supposed to ensure this.


But the Blu-Ray format was built around the concept of decoding in the player. There is a thing called audio mixing in Blu-Ray (and HD DVD for that matter) which doesn't exist in the SD-DVD world. Audio mixing allows the primary track to be mixed with a secondary audio track -- either coming off the disc at the same time or from a separate source. Only limited use of audio mixing has been made so far, but it is in the format and will likely be used more over time.


The thing is, audio mixing can only happen in the player (an external decoding box like the D2v has no way to input the unmixed secondary audio track), and it can only happen AFTER the primary audio track is decoded.


For compatibility, players not set to decode will switch to a track they CAN decode (the lossy DD5.1 "associated" or DTS "core" tracks) when told to do mixing. Which means you get LPCM out of the player anyway.


In addition, even if you like decoding in the pre-pro -- for whatever reason -- your player and pre-pro *STILL* need to handle HDMI LPCM properly. Why? Because if they don't you won't be able to play the high quality raw LPCM tracks that are used on some Blu-Ray discs.


So since HDMI LPCM has to work, and since mixing works better if you use HDMI LPCM, you might as well just stick with HDMI LPCM unless you are fighting some bug in the player. And that means getting a player that decodes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Comcast Component Video Bugs with D2v "Test" Firmware V2.02c*


I'm doing more testing with Component video input from my Comcast box and have discovered two more problems (both reported to Anthem).


First, if you set the Comcast box to produce Component 480i output for SD channels and Component 1080i output for HD channels then the SD channels work fine, but each time you switch to an HD channel the video is distorted.


The distorted HD video is 4:3 instead of 16:9. The top half of the image is clean. The bottom half of the image is made up of numerous horizontal strips repeating the first dozen or so lines from the top of the image.


Cycling inputs away from the Comcast and back to it cures this distortion and the HD video now looks correct. Once corrected, switching between HD channels or going to an SD channel also works -- no image distortion. But the next time you switch from SD back to HD the problem returns.


---------------------------------------------------


OK, so you set the Comcast box to output Component 1080i for everything.


Now there is another problem -- related to the HDMI Edges On problem reported above.


I have TV3 set to copy the Setup settings for TV1. In Video Source Adjust, I have TV3 set to use a Custom Crop of 1440x810. This extracts a 16:9 image that is floating in a 4:3 frame embedded in the 1080i input (i.e., a movie that is showing with black bars around all 4 sides). Since the Custom Crop more than eliminates the edges of the input video stream, I have Edges Off set as well.


TV3 works fine with HDMI 1080i input from the Comcast box. The extracted 16:9 subset fills my 16:9 screen as desired.


However when using Component 1080i input the Custom Crop of TV3 doesn't get applied!


Furthermore, if you go into Video Source Adjust for TV3 and click on Edges On (any pixel value), the Custom Crop instantly gets applied correctly (along with whatever Edges On pixel value you happen to have set)! And then you can re-select Edges Off and the Custom Crop remains working.


It is also the case that when TV3 fails this way, you can cycle inputs away from the Comcast and back again and this, too, will fix the Custom Crop.


Finally, with TV3 now properly showing the Custom Crop if you go back to TV1 (normal viewing setup), the Custom Crop goes away but the Edges On value I have set for TV1 is not applied!


Once again, making any change to Edges On in Video Source Adjust fixes this as does cycling inputs.


Evidently there is some bug that is inhibiting correct application of the Video Source Adjust menu settings. Its impact is slightly different for HDMI input and for Component input. I think it likely Anthem will be able to squash this bug soon.


The workaround if bitten by this bug is either to:


1) Switch to a different source input and back, or


2) Make any change in Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Edges Off or Edges On and then undo that change.

--Bob


----------



## Nick Tech

Hello everyone, I am not sure where to post this so I will post this in here since their is alot of experienced people here. Currently own a Anthem Statement D1 with no video processor upgrade and Denon BDCI 3800 Blu-Ray Player. My question is when connecting the Denon analog audio out to the D1 6.1 input is their any way to bypass Anthem any audio processing in the anthem, if confused I am lookng for a direct/bypass mode to hear the audio processing of the dolby true hd and the dts master audio from the Denon only.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick Tech* /forum/post/15872382
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, I am not sure where to post this so I will post this in here since their is alot of experienced people here. Currently own a Anthem Statement D1 with no video processor upgrade and Denon BDCI 3800 Blu-Ray Player. My question is when connecting the Denon analog audio out to the D1 6.1 input is their any way to bypass Anthem any audio processing in the anthem, if confused I am lookng for a direct/bypass mode to hear the audio processing of the dolby true hd and the dts master audio from the Denon only.



I thought this was our NICK from Anthem asking the question









John


----------



## Ron Alcasid

Is it possible to crop a video input w/o rescaling to the output resolution? I would like to remove the artifacts from SD broadcasts but I would like to maintain 1:1 pixel mapping. I guess really want to mask a video input rather than crop it.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15869713
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what causes this problem, but slow power up and sluggishness after power up have been reported a few times here. It appears to be related, somehow, to removing wall power from the unit -- although all reports we've had here like that indicate unplugging the unit for over a week as opposed to just a short amount of time. This is not confirmed.
> 
> 
> In any event, re-installing the V1.33 firmware (D2 or AVM 50) has always been the cure. Some folks have found they need to use the Flash Eraser utility (a Windows application available from Anthem tech support) to reset the unit completely before it will take accept the firmware install.
> 
> --Bob



When my AVM 50 did this, it was after a faulty download with video live editor. Nothing worked but erasing the firmware and uploading it again. Everything was fine after this

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick Tech* /forum/post/15872382
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, I am not sure where to post this so I will post this in here since their is alot of experienced people here. Currently own a Anthem Statement D1 with no video processor upgrade and Denon BDCI 3800 Blu-Ray Player. My question is when connecting the Denon analog audio out to the D1 6.1 input is their any way to bypass Anthem any audio processing in the anthem, if confused I am lookng for a direct/bypass mode to hear the audio processing of the dolby true hd and the dts master audio from the Denon only.



Yes. I presume you are talking about the 6 channel (5.1) analog audio inputs.


In Setup > Source Setup for the 6-channel input, select Analog-Direct on the Audio In line.


The 6-channel analog input will neither be digitized nor processed in any way. You will have main volume control only.


That means that speaker volume trims, speaker distance adjustments, and bass steering from small speakers to your sub will all have to be done in the player. In addition, if you have ARC set up, be aware that ARC processing will also not happen for any Analog-Direct input.


Many people with ARC have reported they prefer processed 2-channel and 6-channel analog audio since the gains they get from ARC far exceed any loss they think might be happening from digitizing and processing the analog input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/15872437
> 
> 
> Is it possible to crop a video input w/o rescaling to the output resolution? I would like to remove the artifacts from SD broadcasts but I would like to maintain 1:1 pixel mapping. I guess really want to mask a video input rather than crop it.



Interesting question! I've never looked into this.


If you have a 1080p display, in Video Source Adjust for that source try using Crop Input > Edges ON (with a suitable pixel value) and Scale Out > No Scaling.


------------------------------------


Son of a gun! I just checked the D2v manual under Scale Out > No Scaling and they suggest it be used for just this purpose! This is the first case I've run into where it might make sense to use No Scaling during normal viewing.


Cool!


ETA: Keep in mind this will only work as desired for a 1080p input source (or possibly also a 1080i input source). Lower res input sources will show as small images in the middle of the 1080p output frame.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15872339
> 
> 
> The workaround if bitten by this bug is either to:
> 
> 
> 1) Switch to a different source input and back, or
> 
> 
> 2) Make any change in Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Edges Off or Edges On and then undo that change.
> 
> --Bob



Or a much better solution -

3) Get a Tivo HD and dump the crappy Comcast DVR.


Seems a shame to use a second-rate component like the Moto/SA box when you could have a much better overall experience with a Tivo HD.


And the Tivo supports full Native (480i as 480i, 720p as 720p, 1080i as 1080i), and has no issues with the D2v on any resolution or resolution switch.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't argue that the Tivo isn't better hardware, but I suspect these bugs are actually in the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




Bob Pariseau said:


> *Comcast Component Video Bugs with D2v "Test" Firmware V2.02c*
> 
> 
> I'm doing more testing with Component video input from my Comcast box and have discovered two more problems (both reported to Anthem).
> 
> 
> First, if you set the Comcast box to produce Component 480i output for SD channels and Component 1080i output for HD channels then the SD channels work fine, but each time you switch to an HD channel the video is distorted.
> 
> 
> The distorted HD video is 4:3 instead of 16:9. The top half of the image is clean. The bottom half of the image is made up of numerous horizontal strips repeating the first dozen or so lines from the top of the image.
> 
> 
> Cycling inputs away from the Comcast and back to it cures this distortion and the HD video now looks correct. Once corrected, switching between HD channels or going to an SD channel also works -- no image distortion. But the next time you switch from SD back to HD the problem returns.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> OK, so you set the Comcast box to output Component 1080i for everything.
> 
> 
> Now there is another problem -- related to the HDMI Edges On problem reported above.
> 
> 
> I have TV3 set to copy the Setup settings for TV1. In Video Source Adjust, I have TV3 set to use a Custom Crop of 1440x810. This extracts a 16:9 image that is floating in a 4:3 frame embedded in the 1080i input (i.e., a movie that is showing with black bars around all 4 sides). Since the Custom Crop more than eliminates the edges of the input video stream, I have Edges Off set as well.
> 
> 
> TV3 works fine with HDMI 1080i input from the Comcast box. The extracted 16:9 subset fills my 16:9 screen as desired.
> 
> 
> However when using Component 1080i input the Custom Crop of TV3 doesn't get applied!
> 
> 
> Furthermore, if you go into Video Source Adjust for TV3 and click on Edges On (any pixel value), the Custom Crop instantly gets applied correctly (along with whatever Edges On pixel value you happen to have set)! And then you can re-select Edges Off and the Custom Crop remains working.
> 
> 
> It is also the case that when TV3 fails this way, you can cycle inputs away from the Comcast and back again and this, too, will fix the Custom Crop.
> 
> 
> Finally, with TV3 now properly showing the Custom Crop if you go back to TV1 (normal viewing setup), the Custom Crop goes away but the Edges On value I have set for TV1 is not applied!
> 
> 
> Once again, making any change to Edges On in Video Source Adjust fixes this as does cycling inputs.
> 
> 
> Evidently there is some bug that is inhibiting correct application of the Video Source Adjust menu settings. Its impact is slightly different for HDMI input and for Component input. I think it likely Anthem will be able to squash this bug soon.
> 
> 
> The workaround if bitten by this bug is either to:
> 
> 
> 1) Switch to a different source input and back, or
> 
> 
> 2) Make any change in Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Edges Off or Edges On and then undo that change.
> 
> --Bob[/QUOTE/]
> 
> 
> Bob, I had the exact same issues with my Time Warner Sa8300 when switching from 1080i to 480i and I ended up leaving it at 1080i. I did however switch my Tivo S3 back to 480i with n o issues at all and a great video.


----------



## duckwood

Bob,


I've finally got the room setup with things the way they should be, so I decided to rerun ARC with 2.0.1.1.


I've attached the results. I don't know what's going on with the Fronts or with the high frequencies. I don't remember things looking like this with 2.0.1 that I ran when I first got the D2v. Of course I can't load that file now without reloading that version first.


Any impressions?


Abe

 

Arc 1st Run.doc 119.5k . file


----------



## mikepebble

Well Nick got back to me this afternoon and yes he said he has seen this a couple of times before.Went to download site for flash eraser and then re installed Ver 1.33.I was not able to save settings because of delay senario, but at least it's working and I'm PLEASED! Thanks for the direction Bob!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15873418
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I've finally got the room setup with things the way they should be, so I decided to rerun ARC with 2.0.1.1.
> 
> 
> I've attached the results. I don't know what's going on with the Fronts or with the high frequencies. I don't remember things looking like this with 2.0.1 that I ran when I first got the D2v. Of course I can't load that file now without reloading that version first.
> 
> 
> Any impressions?
> 
> 
> Abe



First, you can write protect your V2.0.1 ARC results file and open it in ARC V2.0.1.1 (use the File menu in ARC if it doesn't open automatically when you double click on it), and I think you'll see the charts of your prior Measurements and Calculated results curves for comparison. In any event, you can't damage the write protected results file by trying this. (Right click on the results file, select Properties from the pop-up menu that appears, click on the Read Only check box, and click on Apply, and then OK.)


Now as to these V2.0.1.1 results, do you have satellite subs attached to your LF/RF speakers? The bass output from these two speakers is WAY too high.


The red Measured curve for these should look more like your Center speaker.


If you do have powered, satellite subs attached to them, these charts suggest you have the internal volume control on those two subs turned up too far, and possibly even the wrong crossover set in them for how audio transitions from the satellite sub to the other drivers in those two speakers (i.e., look at the dip at 175Hz in RF).


ARC is likely expending a lot of its resources correcting this, which may explain why you've got largish wobbles still left in your Center speaker Calculated curve.


The high frequencies for LF/RF and C Measure OK -- not great but OK -- and ARC will likely be able to correct almost all of that if you raise the Max EQ Frequency Target value above the default 5KHz, but you need to find out what's going on in bass in LF/RF so that ARC doesn't have so much work to do down there first.


Bass from Center and your two Surround speakers looks fine. The high frequencies in your two Surrounds look like they could benefit from some repositioning/pointing -- paying particular attention to vertical pointing. ARC will only attempt to correct about 6dB up there so you need to get their Measured curves looking better up there.


Meanwhile your sub is showing good output only down to around 50Hz which is kind of anemic for a home theater sub. Is that what you expect from it?


-----------------------------------------


So the first thing is to figure out why your bass from LF/RF is almost off the charts. Then repoint your surrounds -- while you are at it consider adjusting the vertical pointing of Center and the toe-in of LF/RF a bit as well. Then look into the subwoofer issue.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikepebble* /forum/post/15873502
> 
> 
> Well Nick got back to me this afternoon and yes he said he has seen this a couple of times before.Went to download site for flash eraser and then re installed Ver 1.33.I was not able to save settings because of delay senario, but at least it's working and I'm PLEASED! Thanks for the direction Bob!!



If this happens again the next time you run ARC, please try to take careful note of the exact steps you did leading up to the failure. The Anthem engineers can use any and all info trying to hunt this one down.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

I'm still struggling with my second display and getting sound to it.


Can anyone offer any ideas?


Its a flat panel which has HDMI running to it. I get picture. I get sound coming through my main room, but silence into this second room/display.


Source setup sound is set to HDMI. Video is set to HDMI (and I get picture).


Im using HDMI1 as the output from the D2v.


Direct output from the source (e.g., Comcast/Motorola) produces sound. Route it through the D2v and I lose audio.


Is there a setting somewhere to tell the D2v to downmix?


Ideas appreciated........


----------



## Bruceko

I have a Pioneer 05 Bluray player hooked up to my D2 via hdmi.

I get a popping noise when the player is on with no disk in and when I pause a disk. Software on the D2 is 1.33. I know there have been earlier discussions on this but I thought the popping was fixed with 1.33


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15874039
> 
> 
> I'm still struggling with my second display and getting sound to it.
> 
> 
> Can anyone offer any ideas?
> 
> 
> Its a flat panel which has HDMI running to it. I get picture. I get sound coming through my main room, but silence into this second room/display.
> 
> 
> Source setup sound is set to HDMI. Video is set to HDMI (and I get picture).
> 
> 
> Im using HDMI1 as the output from the D2v.
> 
> 
> Direct output from the source (e.g., Comcast/Motorola) produces sound. Route it through the D2v and I lose audio.
> 
> 
> Is there a setting somewhere to tell the D2v to downmix?
> 
> 
> Ideas appreciated........



If you are using the HDMI 2 output to get sound to your second display, be aware that there is a bug in audio output on HDMI 2 for the current D2v and AVM 50v firmware. Anthem is aware of the problem and working on it. I'm not sure whether it is supposed to be completely broken or only working with certain displays.


As a workaround for now, use the Zone 2 analog audio outputs. Set Zone 2 to "copy" the Main path -- i.e., whatever you select for the Main path is also what is used for Zone 2. The stereo RCA audio outputs for Zone 2 will then carry the stereo mix-down of whatever audio is currently playing on the Main path. You can continue to use HDMI for video. There is almost certainly a setting in your second display to tell it to use a stereo analog audio input instead of using audio on the HDMI input. (Hint: Look in the display's manual for how to connect a DVI source device.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/15874133
> 
> 
> I have a Pioneer 05 Bluray player hooked up to my D2 via hdmi.
> 
> I get a popping noise when the player is on with no disk in and when I pause a disk. Software on the D2 is 1.33. I know there have been earlier discussions on this but I thought the popping was fixed with 1.33



Yes, it was fixed. It's been a long time since we had a report like this here.


You will likely need to give Anthem tech support a call on Monday.


In the interim, if you can try a different HDMI source with the D2, and if you can try hooking this player to a different HDMI receiver, that might help isolate the cause. The HDMI 1/2 inputs on the D2 use one set of hardware and the 3/4 inputs use a different set so you could also try using the set you are not currently using to see if there is a difference.


It also wouldn't hurt to re-install the V1.33 firmware on top of itself just to eliminate that as a possibility. Do it just like you were installing it for the first time -- including Reloading Factory Defaults before the install and making sure you have no powered HDMI source or display connections during the install.


And of course with any sort of HDMI communications problem, one common thing to do is try a different HDMI cable. Make sure you are using a cable intended for use with 1080p video.


Has this player ever worked without popping on your D2, or is the player a new purchase?

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

Bob, its not a display setting as i can take the cable and plug it directly into the motorola and it works perfectly.


I'm using HDMI-1 out from the D2v but it just doesnt seem to be carrying the audio out (altho the D2v status says there is audio coming in). Frustrating......guess i'll have to drag another display down to see if that works..........


----------



## Bob Pariseau

SPIDERV6,

If you haven't done so already, you should give Anthem tech support a call or email on Monday with details on the second display and your problems getting HDMI audio to it. Nick tells me the fix for this has been complicated by the fact that different displays are giving different results. One popular display, he says, insists it is receiving 5.1 audio even though the Anthem only puts out 2.0 audio (2 channel 48KHz LPCM) on the HDMI outputs.


More fun with HDMI....

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15874226
> 
> 
> Bob, its not a display setting as i can take the cable and plug it directly into the motorola and it works perfectly.
> 
> 
> I'm using HDMI-1 out from the D2v but it just doesnt seem to be carrying the audio out (altho the D2v status says there is audio coming in). Frustrating......guess i'll have to drag another display down to see if that works..........



Give Anthem tech support a call on Monday. Perhaps you have an instance of this bug that is also affecting HDMI 1 output.


The reason I said to look for the setting in the display was so that you could set up the workaround using an RCA stereo cable pair for audio.


There is no setting in the D2v to enable audio output on the HDMI outputs. It is supposed to be there all the time. It is always a 2 channel down-mix of whatever is playing on the Main path.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

I dont have a 50 foot RCA lying around ;-)


I'll try a second display later to see what happens......


----------



## Bob Pariseau





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15874269
> 
> 
> I dont have a 50 foot RCA lying around ;-)
> 
> 
> I'll try a second display later to see what happens......



Gee, I though EVERYONE had a box full of unused RCA cables lying around! Who knows, there might even be a 50 footer in there?










Let us know how the second display works out, and do get the details to Anthem. I know they are actively working on this problem.

--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings

Bob,


Are you the one that previously mentioned about the high def. movie of "Corpse Bride",

looking pretty good, but not as good as "The nightmare before Christmas"?


If you did, I found "Corpse Bride" better looking in high def. than "Nightmare..."

But both are excellent in both Video & Audio. Fantastic Audio. Just love it.

Add ARC on top of that, and it's pretty hard to top it!


______

Bob


----------



## spiderv6

OK, it's the display....definitely. Panasonic TH-50PX60U.


I hauled another downstairs, plugged it in an there was sound.....


I know the Panasonic works perfectly if I plug the HDMI in directly. Introducing the D2v is the problem. Email on the way to Anthem ;-(


----------



## akopperl

Has anyone had audio issues when switching to another source? When I switch from DirecTV (HDMI) to my Logitech Duet (coaxial) - I get no sound. If I shutdown the AVM50v - then power it back up the Duet works fine. However, if I switch from the Duet to DirecTV - I get sound from my DVR, but it is all garbled.


Thanks


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I did verify that the installed driver was current. With the Keyspan there are a couple of ways to install the driver. One involved installing the driver in the Leopard OS and in XP, the other just in XP. The XP only install seemed to come the closest to working which makes sense, Leopard did not have to let go of the adapter and give it to the VM to use. In the end neither install configuration was able to find the D1. The Belkin worked literally the first try.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15869814
> 
> 
> How 'bout that! Good to know.
> 
> 
> When it failed using the Keyspan adapter, did you by any chance go to the Keyspan support site to confirm the driver that came with the adapter was actually the latest driver for your version of XP?
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/15875635
> 
> 
> Has anyone had audio issues when switching to another source? When I switch from DirecTV (HDMI) to my Logitech Duet (coaxial) - I get no sound. If I shutdown the AVM50v - then power it back up the Duet works fine. However, if I switch from the Duet to DirecTV - I get sound from my DVR, but it is all garbled.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I've had a few instances of no audio or badly distorted audio with HDMI audio. In general the first thing to try is to switch briefly to a different input and back. This is likely the new DSP code not properly recognizing the format of the digital audio stream. If you have a repeatable case, please send the details in an email to Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## flavorguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15872339
> 
> *Comcast Component Video Bugs with D2v "Test" Firmware V2.02c*
> 
> 
> I'm doing more testing with Component video input from my Comcast box and have discovered two more problems (both reported to Anthem).
> 
> 
> First, if you set the Comcast box to produce Component 480i output for SD channels and Component 1080i output for HD channels then the SD channels work fine, but each time you switch to an HD channel the video is distorted.
> 
> 
> The distorted HD video is 4:3 instead of 16:9. The top half of the image is clean. The bottom half of the image is made up of numerous horizontal strips repeating the first dozen or so lines from the top of the image.
> 
> 
> Cycling inputs away from the Comcast and back to it cures this distortion and the HD video now looks correct. Once corrected, switching between HD channels or going to an SD channel also works -- no image distortion. But the next time you switch from SD back to HD the problem returns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I reported the same issue with my Direct TV DVR several days ago on this forum...it is the exact problem that is happening here - switching from 480i to HD sources via component - the image distorts exactly as described above. Switching sources eliminates the problem...
> 
> 
> Apparently Nick supplied my dealer with an updated software version. As soon as I receive and install I will report if this has helped the problem.
Click to expand...


----------



## V7Sport73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15862000
> 
> 
> Regular Serial on the PC is basically limited to 115k. The ebay claim would be overstated. That doesn't mean that your $34 one is worth $34, but if it works it works.



Thank you Duckwood, for clearing that up!


----------



## Ron Alcasid

Thanks Bob, that absolutely worked! This would come in handy for times when SD video is embeded in an HD broadcast and my 1080p display is set to 1:1 pixel mapping.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15872601
> 
> 
> Interesting question! I've never looked into this.
> 
> 
> If you have a 1080p display, in Video Source Adjust for that source try using Crop Input > Edges ON (with a suitable pixel value) and Scale Out > No Scaling.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Son of a gun! I just checked the D2v manual under Scale Out > No Scaling and they suggest it be used for just this purpose! This is the first case I've run into where it might make sense to use No Scaling during normal viewing.
> 
> 
> Cool!
> 
> 
> ETA: Keep in mind this will only work as desired for a 1080p input source (or possibly also a 1080i input source). Lower res input sources will show as small images in the middle of the 1080p output frame.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## duckwood

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
First, you can write protect your V2.0.1 ARC results file and open it in ARC V2.0.1.1 (use the File menu in ARC if it doesn't open automatically when you double click on it), and I think you'll see the charts of your prior Measurements and Calculated results curves for comparison. In any event, you can't damage the write protected results file by trying this. (Right click on the results file, select Properties from the pop-up menu that appears, click on the Read Only check box, and click on Apply, and then OK.)


Now as to these V2.0.1.1 results, do you have satellite subs attached to your LF/RF speakers? The bass output from these two speakers is WAY too high.


The red Measured curve for these should look more like your Center speaker.


If you do have powered, satellite subs attached to them, these charts suggest you have the internal volume control on those two subs turned up too far, and possibly even the wrong crossover set in them for how audio transitions from the satellite sub to the other drivers in those two speakers (i.e., look at the dip at 175Hz in RF).


ARC is likely expending a lot of its resources correcting this, which may explain why you've got largish wobbles still left in your Center speaker Calculated curve.


The high frequencies for LF/RF and C Measure OK -- not great but OK -- and ARC will likely be able to correct almost all of that if you raise the Max EQ Frequency Target value above the default 5KHz, but you need to find out what's going on in bass in LF/RF so that ARC doesn't have so much work to do down there first.


Bass from Center and your two Surround speakers looks fine. The high frequencies in your two Surrounds look like they could benefit from some repositioning/pointing -- paying particular attention to vertical pointing. ARC will only attempt to correct about 6dB up there so you need to get their Measured curves looking better up there.


Meanwhile your sub is showing good output only down to around 50Hz which is kind of anemic for a home theater sub. Is that what you expect from it?


-----------------------------------------


So the first thing is to figure out why your bass from LF/RF is almost off the charts. Then repoint your surrounds -- while you are at it consider adjusting the vertical pointing of Center and the toe-in of LF/RF a bit as well. Then look into the subwoofer issue.

--Bob
Right Bob,


I had forgotten I had reconnected the high level input to my REL sub and had it improperly set. I've corrected that problem and made a minor attempt at getting more bass of of it (its a relatively small Q201E). Pointing the surrounds would be difficult as they have fixed mounts on the wall with no real adjustment though they are tilted in towards the listening area, but not in the vertical direction (Vienna Acoustic Waltz Grand).


I've attached the latest measurements.


One thing of interest for anyone using a Dell Notebook with a serial port. I could not upload my results or redo the firmware when I had the Trumobile wireless card active. Once I disabled it it works fine. I lost a couple hours here trying to figure out what was different since I had used this computer when my D2v first arrived to update to 2.02 and do a first try at ARC. I first tried downgrading ARC to 2.0.1. Then tried downgrading the firmware which kept giving the OKI boot loader problem. The I switched to a shorter serial port cable. No success. This morning with fresh ideas and a disabled wireless it worked.


Abe

 

Arc Actual 2.doc 119k . file


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/15875635
> 
> 
> Has anyone had audio issues when switching to another source? When I switch from DirecTV (HDMI) to my Logitech Duet (coaxial) - I get no sound. If I shutdown the AVM50v - then power it back up the Duet works fine. However, if I switch from the Duet to DirecTV - I get sound from my DVR, but it is all garbled.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I had that issue - in the setup menu, there's a setting like "auto digital" or something. It defaults to No, but I set it to Yes. When I had it on Yes, I had all sorts of audio lock-on issues, but set to No I haven't had any issues.


----------



## jayray

Of all my sources, the ps3 is still the one which flickers, belches and shows snow with my D2v. My XA2 hddvd works fine and my SA 8300 PVR syncs with no problems. I think we sometimes expect Anthem to fix everything but the ps3 seems to have hdmi issues perhaps Sony should fix. Anyone else have this problem?

John


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15877247
> 
> 
> Of all my sources, the ps3 is still the one which flickers, belches and shows snow with my D2v. My XA2 hddvd works fine and my SA 8300 PVR syncs with no problems. I think we sometimes expect Anthem to fix everything but the ps3 seems to have hdmi issues perhaps Sony should fix. Anyone else have this problem?
> 
> John



yes I see this stuff as well. But I've also had my Xbox360 not display properly either, though if I try to repeat it it usually works.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15877247
> 
> 
> Of all my sources, the ps3 is still the one which flickers, belches and shows snow with my D2v. My XA2 hddvd works fine and my SA 8300 PVR syncs with no problems. I think we sometimes expect Anthem to fix everything but the ps3 seems to have hdmi issues perhaps Sony should fix. Anyone else have this problem?
> 
> John



I hate to say this - BUT - I have Multiple Theaters with Multiple PJs

and Multiple AVRs and Multiple PS3s.


The only one that exhibits these conditions you mention above is

the Anthem with the PS3.


With that said - the Anthem and PS3 - the screen switching does

resolve itself after a bit.


----------



## duckwood

Well I tried a search, but couldn't come up with an appropriate search term.


When I play DVDs using my pioneer DVD player the playback level seems to be substantially lower (meaning I need to crank the volume up at least 10dB higher) to be at the same level as what I get out of my PS3 with BluRays. I'll have to try a 1:1 with the same DVD. But is this expected or am I missing something. I didn't see any adjustments for source levels with digital (DVD connected using HDMI).


Abe


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15877306
> 
> 
> I hate to say this - BUT - I have Multiple Theaters with Multiple PJs
> 
> and Multiple AVRs and Multiple PS3s.
> 
> 
> The only one that exhibits these conditions you mention above is
> 
> the Anthem with the PS3.
> 
> 
> With that said - the Anthem and PS3 - the screen switching does
> 
> resolve itself after a bit.



There are instances where I have to eject the disk, switch sources or get the pj to resync and even once, turn of the D2v. This is not consistent but compared to my other sources, it is annoying.









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15877378
> 
> 
> There are instances where I have to eject the disk, switch sources or get the pj to resync and even once, turn of the D2v. This is not consistent but compared to my other sources, it is annoying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I'm not disagreeing with you.


The only point I was trying to make is - it MIGHT be Anthem's

Problem and not the PS3 because my other non-Anthem systems

with PS3s do not exhibit this problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

With the D2 and V1.33 firmware, the PS3 was my second most reliable HDMI input. The Pioneer DV-59avi SD-DVD player (and HDMI 1.0 device, remember them?) was the most reliable. The Comcast/Motorola DCT and now DCH HD/DVR boxes were the least reliable.


With the D2v and the V2.02c "test" firmware, everything is a bit slower to lock in, but the level of reliability is about the same. I don't believe I've had any HDMI failures that couldn't be cured by switching to a different input and back. It's been a long time since I had to power down the Anthem to cure something.


Probably the biggest difference I see in HDMI with the D2v (not counting the bugs already reported) is that it takes quite a bit longer at power up for the D2v and my display to get happy with each other.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15877336
> 
> 
> Well I tried a search, but couldn't come up with an appropriate search term.
> 
> 
> When I play DVDs using my pioneer DVD player the playback level seems to be substantially lower (meaning I need to crank the volume up at least 10dB higher) to be at the same level as what I get out of my PS3 with BluRays. I'll have to try a 1:1 with the same DVD. But is this expected or am I missing something. I didn't see any adjustments for source levels with digital (DVD connected using HDMI).
> 
> 
> Abe



It is not unusual for there to be a level difference between the traditional DD and DTS tracks (as found on SD-DVDs) and the raw LPCM, TrueHD, and DTS-HD MA tracks from Blu-Ray discs. This is just the way they were mixed. Try the same SD-DVD on your PS3 and also switch the PS3 between HDMI LPCM output (DD or DTS decoded in the PS3) and HDMI Bitstream output (DD or DTS decoded in the D2v) for comparison. NOTE: Make sure the Volume setting on the PS3 is still at the factory default level of 0. Bring up the control panel (triangle button) while playing the disc and select the volume setting option.


Be sure to switch the PS3 back to HDMI LPCM output after this since HDMI Bitstream won't do the right thing for Blu-Ray discs.


The Bitstream and LPCM output of DD and DTS tracks from the PS3 should produce the same volume.


If you find the PS3 produces different results from your Pioneer player, check for a volume control in the Pioneer player.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15877112
> 
> 
> I had that issue - in the setup menu, there's a setting like "auto digital" or something. It defaults to No, but I set it to Yes. When I had it on Yes, I had all sorts of audio lock-on issues, but set to No I haven't had any issues.



I have Auto Dig NO for all my sources and I still had some cases of the audio issues he reported.


However it could be the case that whatever bug is causing this is more likely to happen with Auto Dig YES.


[Again for newbies, Auto Dig causes the Anthem to switch automatically between the specified digital audio input and the specified analog audio input according to whether or not there is audio actually present on the digital audio input at the moment. For most devices you don't need this, so leave it off.]

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15877396
> 
> 
> I'm not disagreeing with you.
> 
> 
> The only point I was trying to make is - it MIGHT be Anthem's
> 
> Problem and not the PS3 because my other non-Anthem systems
> 
> with PS3s do not exhibit this problem.



Hank,

I didn't take it that way









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15877594
> 
> 
> Hank,
> 
> I didn't take it that way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



That is why I said out of three combinations of AVRs

and PS3s and PJs - the Anthem exhibited the HDMI

handshake with the PS3 as being not as reliable as

others.


Like Bob said with my D2 and FW 1.33 - in my case

the HDMI handshake with my set of boxes is GOOD.


The only box which exhibits any sometime issues is

the PS3. But even when that happens - I switch from

the PS3 to some other Device and then back. It is

a glitch I can live with.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15877082
> 
> 
> Right Bob,
> 
> 
> I had forgotten I had reconnected the high level input to my REL sub and had it improperly set. I've corrected that problem and made a minor attempt at getting more bass of of it (its a relatively small Q201E). Pointing the surrounds would be difficult as they have fixed mounts on the wall with no real adjustment though they are tilted in towards the listening area, but not in the vertical direction (Vienna Acoustic Waltz Grand).
> 
> 
> I've attached the latest measurements.
> 
> 
> One thing of interest for anyone using a Dell Notebook with a serial port. I could not upload my results or redo the firmware when I had the Trumobile wireless card active. Once I disabled it it works fine. I lost a couple hours here trying to figure out what was different since I had used this computer when my D2v first arrived to update to 2.02 and do a first try at ARC. I first tried downgrading ARC to 2.0.1. Then tried downgrading the firmware which kept giving the OKI boot loader problem. The I switched to a shorter serial port cable. No success. This morning with fresh ideas and a disabled wireless it worked.
> 
> 
> Abe



That comment on the Dell serial port issue is excellent. A lot of folks don't realize that their Windows computers use the same resources for different parts of the hardware -- which means that having some supposedly unrelated other device enabled can screw up even a built-in serial port. Sometimes poking around in Hardware Manager will reveal such a resource conflict, but sometimes not. Fun with Windows....


Your ARC results look *A LOT* better this time.


The biggest remaining problem you have is high frequencies in the surrounds.


Your sub is now showing good output down to 30Hz which is not unusual for a home theater sub. As we've discussed, there are subs that will go deeper, but this is certainly OK for now.


You've got a room cancellation null around 175Hz that has left a tiny residual error in LF after ARC correction. This residual error is small enough to ignore, but if you add any room treatments (e.g., corner bass traps behind LF/RF) that may reduce this to the point where ARC can completely correct things.


And the quality of the Calculated results curve for your Center speaker is fine, now that you've gotten rid of the excess bass ARC had to correct in your LF/RF.


Now as for the Surrounds: What Max EQ Frequency value are you using in Targets at the moment? From the charts, it looks like you might be using 12KHz. Try pushing that all the way up to 20KHz and see what you gain up there and how much it reduces the quality of your lower frequency results.


You may just have to live with the high frequency drop off in LS/RS. I don't know of any way other than repointing (or replacing) them to change their Measured high frequency output.


Do check the user manual for your surrounds to see if they have any response adjustments such as a bass port that you can close. This would reduce their excess low midrange around 200Hz (which ARC has completely corrected), and depending on how the adjustment is implemented might even increase their high frequency output.


The room treatments I alluded to above with respect to the 175Hz null for LF/RF may very well also reduce the 200Hz peak for LS/RS.


If you already have Max EQ Frequency pushed all the way up to 20KHz and are still seeing only modest correction from ARC up there, be aware that reducing the amount of correction ARC has to do at the lower frequencies for these speakers would allow ARC to focus more resources on raising the high frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/15876975
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, that absolutely worked! This would come in handy for times when SD video is embeded in an HD broadcast and my 1080p display is set to 1:1 pixel mapping.



Even though this use of Video Source Adjust > Scale Out > No Scale is actually in the latest manuals (both for the old and the new hardware), I think this is cool enough that it is worth a cookie just for bringing it to everyone's attention!










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15876677
> 
> 
> I reported the same issue with my Direct TV DVR several days ago on this forum...it is the exact problem that is happening here - switching from 480i to HD sources via component - the image distorts exactly as described above. Switching sources eliminates the problem...
> 
> 
> Apparently Nick supplied my dealer with an updated software version. As soon as I receive and install I will report if this has helped the problem.



I suspect Nick gave your dealer the "test" V2.02c(13feb) firmware. If so, the Component video problems still exist in that firmware because that's what I'm using now. If you discover you have firmware newer than that, please do report back -- and copy and post whatever change notes there might be in the text file that comes with it.


ETA: By the way, there are other good fixes in that "test" firmware, so it is probably good to install it even though it doesn't fix this Component video input issue.

--Bob


----------



## facke02

Well, I finally got my D2v installed and running this morning. So far I am very impressed.


I do have a component issue, I think, with my SA8300 cable box. I have the SA set to pass all resolutions to the D2v. When I change channel from SDTV to HDTV, the bottom half of the screen is full of horizontal lines. The top half is fine. If I change sources, the problem goes away. I did have the audio go away once. I had to recycle (power off/on) the D2v and it resolved the problem.


Attached is my first run of ARC if someone would like to offer suggestions.


----------



## tngiloy

I have 2 SVS subs. They each have 3 ports, 2 of which can be plugged which lowers the bass response for increased .1 LFE response. Leaving the ports unplugged makes them more 'musical' sounding.

With the magic of ARC would it be advisable to plug 2 ports on one sub, and none on the other?

Would I get the best of both set-ups-- musical bass response and deeper LFE-- or would they cancel each other out?

This is a question that I may have to find out by myself thru trial and error, but I thought I'd check and see if anyone else here had tried something similar with a 2, or more, sub set-up using ARC.

I realize that I would need to do a new measurement with ARC, but thats no biggie. I will probably wait until the new ARC trial software is made official to try this since, if I understand correctly, the ARC 2.0.1.1 has a positive effect on LFE. But I thought I'd check and see if any of you had already done a similar experiment.

Any idea when the new ARC will be released on the official Anthem website?

Tom


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/15878266
> 
> 
> Well, I finally got my D2v installed and running this morning. So far I am very impressed.
> 
> 
> I do have a component issue, I think, with my SA8300 cable box. I have the SA set to pass all resolutions to the D2v. When I change channel from SDTV to HDTV, the bottom half of the screen is full of horizontal lines. The top half is fine. If I change sources, the problem goes away. I did have the audio go away once. I had to recycle (power off/on) the D2v and it resolved the problem.
> 
> 
> Attached is my first run of ARC if someone would like to offer suggestions.



I think Mr. *Virtual Anthem* [Bob Pariseau] Reported that bug to Anthem already!


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15878436
> 
> 
> I think Mr. *Virtual Anthem* [Bob Pariseau] Reported that bug to Anthem already!



That's what I thought...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/15878464
> 
> 
> That's what I thought...



I'm sure more reports help Anthem.


I think Bob's initial report of that bug was on HDMI

inputs and you see what sounds like the same bug

on Component.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15878485
> 
> 
> I'm sure more reports help Anthem.
> 
> 
> I think Bob's initial report of that bug was on HDMI
> 
> inputs and you see what sounds like the same bug
> 
> on Component.



No, I too reported this bug on Component input. I'm not sure whether it can also happen with HDMI input, but I don't think so due to the complete new handshake that gets forced each time the HDMI input resolution change.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15878535
> 
> 
> No, I too reported this bug on Component input. I'm not sure whether it can also happen with HDMI input, but I don't think so due to the complete new handshake that gets forced each time the HDMI input resolution change.
> 
> --Bob



Sorry for being WRONG







too many bugs for me to keep track of


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15878315
> 
> 
> I have 2 SVS subs. They each have 3 ports, 2 of which can be plugged which lowers the bass response for increased .1 LFE response. Leaving the ports unplugged makes them more 'musical' sounding.
> 
> With the magic of ARC would it be advisable to plug 2 ports on one sub, and none on the other?
> 
> Would I get the best of both set-ups-- musical bass response and deeper LFE-- or would they cancel each other out?
> 
> This is a question that I may have to find out by myself thru trial and error, but I thought I'd check and see if anyone else here had tried something similar with a 2, or more, sub set-up using ARC.
> 
> I realize that I would need to do a new measurement with ARC, but thats no biggie. I will probably wait until the new ARC trial software is made official to try this since, if I understand correctly, the ARC 2.0.1.1 has a positive effect on LFE. But I thought I'd check and see if any of you had already done a similar experiment.
> 
> Any idea when the new ARC will be released on the official Anthem website?
> 
> Tom



It's tough to say what result you would get without actually trying it with ARC, but my guess would be that:


1) It is best to set both subs the same way and let ARC correct from there rather than mixing sub setups with different responses.


2) It is best to set your sub for "most musical" response and then deal with bass extension into the lowest frequencies by ARC correction or by placement (e.g., closer to a corner). Typically what sub makers mean by "musical" response is "best accuracy with least distortion" whereas the alternative is bass boost with the possibility of significant distortion for more impact from explosions and such.


So I'd suggest you start with the port configuration for musical and only abandon that if you can't otherwise get enough bass extension. And I suggest you set both subs to the same port configuration.


I suspect the official release of "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 is waiting some testing with the new, bug fix firmware they are working on for the D2v and AVM 50v. Things like my report of possible Center speaker correction issues when 7.1 channel input is down-mixed to 5.1 speaker output. It probably won't be much longer.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15878542
> 
> 
> Sorry for being WRONG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> too many bugs for me to keep track of



Tell me about it! Reminds me of the first few months after the D2 was initially released...

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/15878266
> 
> 
> Well, I finally got my D2v installed and running this morning. So far I am very impressed.
> 
> 
> I do have a component issue, I think, with my SA8300 cable box. I have the SA set to pass all resolutions to the D2v. When I change channel from SDTV to HDTV, the bottom half of the screen is full of horizontal lines. The top half is fine. If I change sources, the problem goes away. I did have the audio go away once. I had to recycle (power off/on) the D2v and it resolved the problem.
> 
> 
> Attached is my first run of ARC if someone would like to offer suggestions.



The issue with image breakup when you change from Component 480i input to high res Component input is definitely a bug in the D2v and AVM 50v firmware. Anthem has been alerted. However it wouldn't hurt to send them an email describing that you are getting this from your SA8300 box as they may have only had reports up to now from folks using Motorola boxes.


For the moment, the workaround is either to set your set top box to output 1080i for all channels, or to leave it as you have it set now and whenever the image breaks up like this, just briefly switch the D2v to a different input and back -- which will cure the problem until the next time you transition from Component 480i to any higher resolution.


Cycling inputs should also cure the audio loss if it happens again (also a bug).


--------------------------------------------------


Your ARC charts look pretty good for a first pass, but there are definitely things to address.


You have WAY too much bass coming from your LF/RF speakers, and even your Center speaker. Check how you have those three speakers configured for low frequency response. If any of them has an attached, "satellite" subwoofer the odds are you have that satellite's internal volume control set quite a bit too high. The same would apply if they have a woofer with a built-in power amp. When set correctly, the red Measured curve for these three speakers should look more like what you are getting from the LS/RS speakers.


When you correct this, ARC will also be able to lower the cutoff/crossover Target for LF/RF and the overall solution will be cleaner. Right now ARC is trying to exploit the roll off of the high crossover to help quiet that excessive bass.


You've apparently got a room cancellation mode near 2KHz that is affecting LS/RS and C. This is an unusually high frequency for a room mode, but there it is. ARC is able to correct that for LS/RS but not completely correct it for Center. When you figure out what's wrong with the bass setup for Center (and for LF/RF for that matter), ARC may find it can do a better job with this frequency for Center as well. (ARC is probably using a lower overall speaker volume trim for LF/RF and C to tame that excess bass, and that makes it harder for ARC to fill in dips like this at 2KHz in Center. Fix the bass and you'll likely get a better solution here as well.)


Your high frequency Measured results are pretty good. I think you will benefit nicely from raising the Max EQ Frequency target value so that ARC will apply correction above the default 5KHz. Only Center really needs any significant amount of correction up there. If you can tame the excess bass Measurements as described above, ARC will likely be able to do this high frequency work without any significant degradation of its low frequency corrections.


Your sub is currently showing good output down to about 35Hz, which is fairly typical for a home theater sub. As we've discussed, there are subs that can go deeper into the subsonics. You may also gain some low frequency output if you move the sub closer to a solid wall or corner.


As is, these ARC results should sound very good indeed compared to your uncorrected setup. But once you correct the excess bass output issue and raise the Max EQ Frequency target value it should sound even better.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*More Testing with Comcast and D2v (using "Test" V2.02c Firmware)*


The D2v does not fix the HDMI 480i bug in my Comcast box that results in the now infamous Big Green Line on the right of the image. As before, cycling inputs makes the Green Line go away, but just about anything you do in the Comcast -- such as bringing up the Program Guide -- causes it to reappear.


This is a bug in the Comcast/Motorola firmware they foisted on customers starting back around September of last year (depending on your market area). They've received plenty of complaints but at least in my market area they still haven't fixed it. This bug exists in both the DCT and DCH series Motorola hardware. It is even worse in the DCT series boxes because it also happens at 1080i. At least with the DCH boxes you have the workaround of always using HDMI 1080i output to avoid the Big Green Line.


You can also stretch SD images to fill the screen and then use Edges On in the Anthem to crop off the Big Green Line, but ... yuck!


I was kind of hoping the D2v would be able to workaround this Comcast bug, but no luck. I've received a report that a DCH box in a different market area no longer has this problem so maybe, just maybe, Comcast and Motorola are going to get off their duffs and push out new firmware in my market area that fixes this.


-------------------------------------------------------


I've started playing with Video Source Adjust > Picture > Detail Enhancement and Noise Reduction to see what value they can be removing the re-compression artifacts in my Comcast feed -- particularly the SD feed.


For these tests I've been using Component 480i from the Comcast box.


The results are encouraging!


For newbies, if Sharpness is set correctly on your display you shouldn't need any Detail Enhancement in the Anthem. Excessive Detail Enhancement will produce bright halos around contrasty edges. This leads to the perception of what is known as "false detail" -- the eye thinks detail is added. But in reality, the true detail in the image is being reduced and replaced with these halos.


You also won't need any Noise Reduction if you are playing high quality content (e.g., Blu-Ray discs). There are various types of Noise Reduction algorithms but they all, at root, conceal noise in the image by blurring the image. Specific algorithms are targeted at specific types of common image noise so that you can get good results with minimal blurring.


The new VXP chip in the D2v and AVM 50v is supposed to have a much better implementation of Noise Reduction, and of Detail Enhancement, than even the chip used in the D2 and AVM 50. These features in the new chips have many choices and parameters, but for the moment the D2v and AVM 50v firmware conceals all of that under just one slider for Noise Reduction and two sliders for Detail Enhancement (a level setting and another setting that is used to keep noise in the image from also becoming "detail enhanced"). How those two sliders convert to the parameters for the VXP chip features has been pre-determined by the Anthem engineers. It is possible that future firmware may open that up a bit so that interested folks can fiddle with the various parameters directly.


In general, if you apply Noise Reduction you should also consider applying some Detail Enhancement. The Detail Enhancement counters some of the blurring so that you can apply useful levels of Noise Reduction without the imaging getting too fuzzy.


Again, you don't really want to use EITHER of these when viewing high quality content. Fortunately, the Video Source Adjust menu settings are remembered on a per-input basis, so you can set up a source definition (e.g., TV4) just for playing with this stuff.


---------------------------------------


With the D2, my feeling was that I couldn't get a useful amount of Noise Reduction without also getting too much blurring, and Detail Enhancement wasn't really helping. I.e., overall I felt it was better to just live with the compression noise I was seeing in my Comcast feed -- particularly in SD channels.


With the D2v, on the other hand, it is beginning to look like these could actually be useful tools!


Now you have to be careful not to go overboard with either of these, but so far it looks like modest amounts of Noise Reduction (e.g., under 20) along with similarly modest amounts of Detail Enhancement actually do a decent job of concealing macro blocking, mosquito noise, and the like in my Comcast SD feed.


It is still early days yet, but I see some real positives here!


Folks who experiment with these and find particularly useful combos of settings for them should post the results here.


Keep in mind that since these sliders are being translated into the actual parameters used by the VXP chip, there may be unusual transition points. For example, we might discover that a slider value of 20 differs significantly from a value of 21 (much more than 19 differs from 20) simply because the Anthem engineers chose that as the place to engage another portion of the processing in the VXP chip. Since this processing is all a black box, we'll just have to learn as we go.

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15878703
> 
> 
> The issue with image breakup when you change from Component 480i input to high res Component input is definitely a bug in the D2v and AVM 50v firmware. Anthem has been alerted. However it wouldn't hurt to send them an email describing that you are getting this from your SA8300 box as they may have only had reports up to now from folks using Motorola boxes.
> 
> 
> For the moment, the workaround is either to set your set top box to output 1080i for all channels, or to leave it as you have it set now and whenever the image breaks up like this, just briefly switch the D2v to a different input and back -- which will cure the problem until the next time you transition from Component 480i to any higher resolution.
> 
> 
> Cycling inputs should also cure the audio loss if it happens again (also a bug).



I'll send Anthem an email as you suggest. The more data they have the better to resolve the issues...



--------------------------------------------------


Your ARC charts look pretty good for a first pass, but there are definitely things to address.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15878703
> 
> 
> You have WAY too much bass coming from your LF/RF speakers, and even your Center speaker. Check how you have those three speakers configured for low frequency response. If any of them has an attached, "satellite" subwoofer the odds are you have that satellite's internal volume control set quite a bit too high. The same would apply if they have a woofer with a built-in power amp. When set correctly, the red Measured curve for these three speakers should look more like what you are getting from the LS/RS speakers.
> 
> 
> When you correct this, ARC will also be able to lower the cutoff/crossover Target for LF/RF and the overall solution will be cleaner. Right now ARC is trying to exploit the roll off of the high crossover to help quiet that excessive bass.



That's what I suspected. My speakers are Definitive Technology which have built in subs in the fronts and center. I currently have them hooked up via LFE and I set them to SMALL in setup. Anyone have any experience with Def Tech's?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15878703
> 
> 
> You've apparently got a room cancellation mode near 2KHz that is affecting LS/RS and C. This is an unusually high frequency for a room mode, but there it is. ARC is able to correct that for LS/RS but not completely correct it for Center. When you figure out what's wrong with the bass setup for Center (and for LF/RF for that matter), ARC may find it can do a better job with this frequency for Center as well. (ARC is probably using a lower overall speaker volume trim for LF/RF and C to tame that excess bass, and that makes it harder for ARC to fill in dips like this at 2KHz in Center. Fix the bass and you'll likely get a better solution here as well.)
> 
> 
> Your high frequency Measured results are pretty good. I think you will benefit nicely from raising the Max EQ Frequency target value so that ARC will apply correction above the default 5KHz. Only Center really needs any significant amount of correction up there. If you can tame the excess bass Measurements as described above, ARC will likely be able to do this high frequency work without any significant degradation of its low frequency corrections.
> 
> 
> Your sub is currently showing good output down to about 35Hz, which is fairly typical for a home theater sub. As we've discussed, there are subs that can go deeper into the subsonics. You may also gain some low frequency output if you move the sub closer to a solid wall or corner.
> 
> 
> As is, these ARC results should sound very good indeed compared to your uncorrected setup. But once you correct the excess bass output issue and raise the Max EQ Frequency target value it should sound even better.
> 
> --Bob



I ran the first pass of ARC in automatic mode, so I haven't done anything to the targets and etc. yet.


Thanks for the assistance...


----------



## mikepebble

Well we redid the arc ver 1.25 measurements twice and did multiple targets & calculations.Ran smooth as silk. Then proceeded to download ver 2.01 and run measurements (things were going so smooth!).But the little fairies have arrived!Once downloaded It intializes, recognizes the D2 but Now it says it cannot find the serial # for the Microphone.Is there some way to locate that # in a file or manually insert the 6 digit # I have.I'm lost on how to proceed. Can anyone help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/15879091
> 
> 
> My speakers are Definitive Technology which have built in subs in the fronts and center. I currently have them hooked up via LFE and I set them to SMALL in setup. Anyone have any experience with Def Tech's?



If the attached subs for the LF/RF/C speakers have a direct connection to the main portion of those speakers (with an internal crossover in the speaker combo deciding which frequencies go to which portions) -- i.e., if they are "satellite" subs as I described in a post above -- then you shouldn't have to have a feed wire from the Anthem's sub output for them. They should be getting everything they need from the regular LF/RF/C feed from the Anthem.


However there's no signal on the sub output of the Anthem when ARC is Measuring LF/RF/C so that's not the cause of your excessive bass. Most likely there is just an internal volume setting on those satellite subs that needs to be set correctly.


Only your standalone sub(s) should have the feed from the sub output of the Anthem. Even if you decide to stop using the standalone sub, you should set up the main speakers the same way. Just specify No Sub in your configuration and the Anthem will steer LFE input out to the LF/RF feed lines.


The Small vs. Large speaker stuff in your configuration gets replaced by what ARC Uploads for you.


----------------------------------------------


Note that even though you used the Automatic ARC setup, you can still open the saved results file in Advanced mode and change the Targets if you want. Make the changes in Targets window, accept those changes (which also dismisses the Targets window), re-Calculate, and if you like the result re-Upload. No need to re-Measure when doing this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikepebble* /forum/post/15879297
> 
> 
> Well we redid the arc ver 1.25 measurements twice and did multiple targets & calculations.Ran smooth as silk. Then proceeded to download ver 2.01 and run measurements (things were going so smooth!).But the little fairies have arrived!Once downloaded It intializes, recognizes the D2 but Now it says it cannot find the serial # for the Microphone.Is there some way to locate that # in a file or manually insert the 6 digit # I have.I'm lost on how to proceed. Can anyone help.



The installation of ARC V2.0.1 should have preserved the two licensing/calibration files that were already in place for ARC V1.2.5 -- unless of course you switched computers.


In any event this is easy to fix. Find the pair of licensing calibration files on your original ARC install CD. They have file names made up of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC mic.


Copy those two files into Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction where the ARC V2.0.1 application was installed.


Remember that you can't run ARC V2.0.1 out of the folder you downloaded. It has to be installed first (which will replace any prior ARC you have installed). To install it run the Setup program you will find in the same folder as the ARC V2.0.1 application you downloaded. If you copy your two licensing/calibration files into that same folder with the Setup program prior to running Setup, then the Setup installer program will insure those two files get installed into the correct place as well.


The installation of ARC V2.0.1 will also put a new shortcut on your desktop that you can double-click to run the newly installed ARC V2.0.1. Use that to run ARC and you will know you are running the copy that has been installed. If you run ARC in Advanced mode you can use the About item in the Help menu to confirm that you are running the version of ARC you think you should be running.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15878566
> 
> 
> It's tough to say what result you would get without actually trying it with ARC, but my guess would be that:
> 
> 
> 1) It is best to set both subs the same way and let ARC correct from there rather than mixing sub setups with different responses.
> 
> 
> 2) It is best to set your sub for "most musical" response and then deal with bass extension into the lowest frequencies by ARC correction or by placement (e.g., closer to a corner). Typically what sub makers mean by "musical" response is "best accuracy with least distortion" whereas the alternative is bass boost with the possibility of significant distortion for more impact from explosions and such.
> 
> 
> So I'd suggest you start with the port configuration for musical and only abandon that if you can't otherwise get enough bass extension. And I suggest you set both subs to the same port configuration.
> 
> 
> I suspect the official release of "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 is waiting some testing with the new, bug fix firmware they are working on for the D2v and AVM 50v. Things like my report of possible Center speaker correction issues when 7.1 channel input is down-mixed to 5.1 speaker output. It probably won't be much longer.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.

Your suggestions are the way I have them set up now. The bass is excellent in both movies and music with ARC, but I'm always searching for 'most excellent'.









I do think that ARC 2.0.1 is a little light in the LFE, when compared to ARC1.25, IMHO. But I'm just picking nits. Guess I'll wait for the next official ARC release.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15879477
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> Your suggestions are the way I have them set up now. The bass is excellent in both movies and music with ARC, but I'm always searching for 'most excellent'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do think that ARC 2.0.1 is a little light in the LFE, when compared to ARC1.25, IMHO. But I'm just picking nits. Guess I'll wait for the next official ARC release.



If things don't change again before it happens, I think you will be pleased with the improved bass when "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 is finally kicked out of the nest.

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15879327
> 
> 
> If the attached subs for the LF/RF/C speakers have a direct connection to the main portion of those speakers (with an internal crossover in the speaker combo deciding which frequencies go to which portions) -- i.e., if they are "satellite" subs as I described in a post above -- then you shouldn't have to have a feed wire from the Anthem's sub output for them. They should be getting everything they need from the regular LF/RF/C feed from the Anthem.
> 
> 
> However there's no signal on the sub output of the Anthem when ARC is Measuring LF/RF/C so that's not the cause of your excessive bass. Most likely there is just an internal volume setting on those satellite subs that needs to be set correctly.
> 
> 
> Only your standalone sub(s) should have the feed from the sub output of the Anthem. Even if you decide to stop using the standalone sub, you should set up the main speakers the same way. Just specify No Sub in your configuration and the Anthem will steer LFE input out to the LF/RF feed lines.
> 
> 
> The Small vs. Large speaker stuff in your configuration gets replaced by what ARC Uploads for you.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Note that even though you used the Automatic ARC setup, you can still open the saved results file in Advanced mode and change the Targets if you want. Make the changes in Targets window, accept those changes (which also dismisses the Targets window), re-Calculate, and if you like the result re-Upload. No need to re-Measure when doing this.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, they are satellite subs as you described. I will disconnect the LFE and re measure.


----------



## flavorguy

[


> Quote:
> QUOTE=Bob Pariseau;15877778]I suspect Nick gave your dealer the "test" V2.02c(13feb) firmware. If so, the Component video problems still exist in that firmware because that's what I'm using now. If you discover you have firmware newer than that, please do report back -- and copy and post whatever change notes there might be in the text file that comes with it.
> 
> 
> ETA: By the way, there are other good fixes in that "test" firmware, so it is probably good to install it even though it doesn't fix this Component video input issue.
> 
> --Bob



[/quote]


Unfortunately it is the v2.02c.... I agree that I want to install it anyway for the other fixes...Also I couldn't get the AVM50v to accept the new software. I got a "could not find receiver" message (or something like that)... I'm using the Keyspan 19HS serial adapter and installed the drivers... I stopped messing with it since I didn't want to wipe out my other settings and ARC results to this point...


Another question. I reran my ARC targets at 20000 per your suggestion and again I could not upload.... I would get a small error box on my laptop... maybe I am having issues with the Serial USB adapter.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15879895
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately it is the v2.02c.... I agree that I want to install it anyway for the other fixes...Also I couldn't get the AVM50v to accept the new software. I got a "could not find receiver" message (or something like that)... I'm using the Keyspan 19HS serial adapter and installed the drivers... I stopped messing with it since I didn't want to wipe out my other settings and ARC results to this point...
> 
> 
> Another question. I reran my ARC targets at 20000 per your suggestion and again I could not upload.... I would get a small error box on my laptop... maybe I am having issues with the Serial USB adapter.



Yes it sounds like you are having troubles with the serial adapter and that computer.


Another possibility as regards the firmware install is that they mistakenly gave you the version for the D2v instead of the AVM 50v (you can tell by the file name).

--Bob


----------



## mikepebble

Well Bob and friends I have2 sets of charts to show--ver 1.25 and then ver2.01.Let me know what you see.It would be appreciated.

Thanks also Bob for the help with getting vers 2.01 up and running for me. Your direction made the task "easy" thanks

 

charts ver2.01...doc 98k . file

 

charts ver2.01..doc 117k . file


----------



## mikepebble

Here are the ver 1.25 Thanks again--- Mikepebble

 

charts ver 1.25.doc 98k . file

 

charts ver 1.25..doc 115k . file


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15879518
> 
> 
> If things don't change again before it happens, I think you will be pleased with the improved bass when "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 is finally kicked out of the nest.
> 
> --Bob



Is v2.01.1 what you are currently using Bob? You found this to be an improvement over the current ARC software? And mainly in the bass response? But this is not official yet correct?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/15882303
> 
> 
> Is v2.01.1 what you are currently using Bob? You found this to be an improvement over the current ARC software? And mainly in the bass response? But this is not official yet correct?



Correct in all particulars. It is the "test" version currently on the password protected download page. I posted the release notes for it on Feb 13.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikepebble* /forum/post/15881770
> 
> 
> Well Bob and friends I have2 sets of charts to show--ver 1.25 and then ver2.01.Let me know what you see.It would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks also Bob for the help with getting vers 2.01 up and running for me. Your direction made the task "easy" thanks



Both solutions look fine. The V2.0.1 solution looks slightly better but there's not enough difference to quibble about. Go ahead and Upload the V2.0.1 stuff and enjoy!


Really there's nothing you need to do. Either of these should sound wonderful.


What's left is very much second tier refinements. For example it is evident that your LS/RS speakers are a bit weaker in bass than your other speakers. This shows in the solution in that ARC has set a higher "cutoff" Target for them. In listening it means the timbre of those two speakers will vary a bit from the others, so that a sound panning around the room will change character slightly as it passes through those two. There's really nothing you have to fix here, but it's just the next level of stuff.


You also have a bit of a dip around 2500Hz in LR/RR that's just a hair more than ARC can completely correct. The residual error is tiny -- perfectly reasonable to ignore it -- but if you want to fiddle some more that would be another thing to look at. This is really too high frequency to be a typical room response mode. Perhaps it is due to the type of grill material you have on those speakers.


If you want to make a separate Music configuration, you have lots of options. Your LF/RF speakers Measure well enough that you could make a true 2.0 configuration for example. If you do, ARC V2.0.1 will set them to "full range" as far as bass management but it will still apply a room correction "cutoff" at the low end. You can go into Targets and lower that cutoff down to 25Hz if you want ARC to push them all the way down.


Or you could do a 2.1 configuration including the sub, or a configuration excluding the Center speaker. But only LS/RS are having any impact on the full solution that might be changed so I think you could just as well leave the full 7.1 stuff you've got now and then choose Stereo mode for example while listening to music if you want the Center and Surrounds to stay silent.


I don't know how much listening you've done with your setup prior to including ARC, but I'll be interested in what you find as the change after ARC. The corrections ARC is applying may not look like much, but they are quite significant even in a well configured system like yours. Happy listening!

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Has anybody here received a D2v working under 220volts in the frame of the upgrade program from D2's?

There is no announcements on the official website but then again there haven't been any there for years.


Thank you


----------



## spiderv6

xtrips, i don't think we have yet heard of anyone upgrading. I remember reading here of possible march/april timeframe before that program starts.


Anthem are still backordered on new units so I guess that's where the resources are going.


----------



## scanido

From those frequency charts, is the calculated response (green line) the actual corrected response applied by ARC??


If so, that is amazing!!!


----------



## muad'dib

So far love this new version, but have a quick question.


I have my measurements from ARC 2.0.1...



I use them with ARC V2.0.1.1 and all is awesome..











Do I have to RE-Measure with ARC V2.0.1.1 to get the full effect, or is ARC 2.0.1 fine..











Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/15883548
> 
> 
> From those frequency charts, is the calculated response (green line) the actual corrected response applied by ARC??
> 
> 
> If so, that is amazing!!!



Yes it is. It is amazing.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/15883548
> 
> 
> From those frequency charts, is the calculated response (green line) the actual corrected response applied by ARC??
> 
> 
> If so, that is amazing!!!



ARC doesn't actually offer a way to Measure or view the true result of applying its corrections.


We know that the red Measured curve is an unweighted average of the mic Measurements for each speaker across all mic positions. Which means, for example, it is not identical to what the mic is seeing at any one mic position.


When ARC calculates its room correction parameters, using data from all mic positions for all speakers, it ends up with a mathematical model of what will be implemented in the Anthem during normal listening. It is possible to feed any given frequency response curve through that model and chart the resulting output as an exercise in math.


We believe the green Calculated curve is the result of doing just that -- using the red Measured curve as the surrogate for uncorrected frequency response. So the green Calculated curve also doesn't represent even the predicted result for any single mic position. Nor will it show errors in ARC processing due to bad data. For example, if you mistakenly do your ARC Measurements with the mic positions too close together, ARC will have bad data to work with and the predicted results -- the green Calculated curve -- won't reflect the best that ARC can do. Some of these errors will show up as poor Calculated results. But if ARC fully corrects using the bad data then the Calculated results will look better than they actually are.


Nevertheless, when Measurements are taken properly, it is almost always the case that the closer the green Calculated curve comes to the black, dashed Target curve, the better things actually sound in real listening. And that's what really matters.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

You can use 2.01 measurements with 2.01.1.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/15884098
> 
> 
> So far love this new version, but have a quick question.
> 
> 
> I have my measurements from ARC 2.0.1...
> 
> 
> 
> I use them with ARC V2.0.1.1 and all is awesome..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I have to RE-Measure with ARC V2.0.1.1 to get the full effect, or is ARC 2.0.1 fine..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



According to the release notes that come with "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 you could actually use Measurements made all the way back to ARC V1.2.5. It would probably be good to do an Auto Detect in the Targets window prior to doing your Calculations so that the new ARC can redo its preliminary analysis of the Measured data and reset the Target values accordingly -- otherwise it will do its new Calculation using the Targets established back when that Measurement file was created.


However I believe we've now had two posts here from folks saying that they believe what they got after re-Measuring with "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 was better than what they got by letting it Calculate using older Measurements. It's tough to know how much of that might be due to them just getting better at taking a quality set of Measurements.


In my case, I chose to re-Measure both for "official" ARC V2.0.1 and for "test" ARC V2.0.1.1.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15884264
> 
> 
> According to the release notes that come with "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 you could actually use Measurements made all the way back to ARC V1.2.5. It would probably be good to do an Auto Detect in the Targets window prior to doing your Calculations so that the new ARC can redo its preliminary analysis of the Measured data and reset the Target values accordingly -- otherwise it will do its new Calculation using the Targets established back when that Measurement file was created.
> 
> 
> However I believe we've now had two posts here from folks saying that they believe what the got after re-Measuring with "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 was better than what they got by letting it Calculate using older Measurements. It's tough to know how much of that might be due to them just getting better at taking a quality set of Measurements.
> 
> 
> In my case, I chose to re-Measure both for "official" ARC V2.0.1 and for "test" ARC V2.0.1.1.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15884231
> 
> 
> You can use 2.01 measurements with 2.01.1.
> 
> John



Thanks







...


Just wanted to make sure...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15883160
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Has anybody here received a D2v working under 220volts in the frame of the upgrade program from D2's?
> 
> There is no announcements on the official website but then again there haven't been any there for years.
> 
> 
> Thank you



So far we've had no reports here of anyone receiving a new, 220V "high voltage" version of either the D2v or AVM 50v. I posted some info showing that the Anthem's international distributors are supposedly already selling units, but we don't have confirmation yet that any have been delivered.


As for the upgrade program, we've no reason to believe that has begun yet for upgrades to either the D2v or the AVM 50v even for the "low voltage" units used in the US and Canada.

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman

Is it still a possibility that the D1 can be upgraded to the D2v?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Setting Video Levels*


Some reminders to both old hands and to newbies on how to get the best video from your Anthem:


Basic tips on video setup will be found in the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post linked in the first post of this thread. Be sure to read that.


The basic idea with the Anthem is that you FIRST set up the video levels in your display -- using the test charts built into the Anthem. Only after that do you start refining video levels for each source device using the adjustments in the Video Source Adjust menu.


It takes some practice to get good at this, so if this is new to you, plan on revisiting your display's video levels and your Video Source Adjust levels as time goes on. But again, each time you do this, adjust the display levels FIRST and then refine your input video levels for each source.


Gamma Correction is in the Video Source Adjust > Output panel to make it possible to do such adjustments on-the-fly while using the Live Video Settings Editor utility application (found in the utilities folder of the ARC install kit). However setting Gamma Correction really is a part of setting the output video -- i.e., the display side of things.


This means that any Gamma Correction you set up will most likely need to be identical for each of your source devices. Be sure to set it in Video Source Adjust for each input.


Gamma Correction interacts with the basic black levels (Brightness control) and white levels (Contrast control). That means any changes you make in Gamma Correction need to be paired with matching adjustments in Brightness/Contrast in your display. EXAMPLE: Using the simple, "Exponential Gamma Correction" found in Video Source Adjust > Output, you will find that higher values cause the entire image to darken. So you need to raise Brightness in the display, and then re-adjust Contrast in the display to match since Brightness and Contrast interact. You are looking for the sweet spot settings where Gamma (in the Anthem), and Brightness and Contrast (in the display) together produce the best results.


Gamma Correction is used to adjust for incorrect Gamma in your display. If your display has been professionally calibrated, you are not likely to need any Gamma Correction in the Anthem. However the factory settings in many displays are deliberately set to provide Gamma that is too low as this produces the perception of "false pop" in the imaging when folks are looking at the TV in stores. Similarly, Color Temperature in the default settings used in stores is likely to be too cool (too blue) as this yields a brighter looking image that is more eye catching in stores. These are examples of the widely disparaged "torch mode" settings -- way too bright, too contrasty, too sharpness "enhanced" and with ridiculous amounts of "red push" to counter that bogus, cool Color Temperature (to keep people from looking like corpses due to the blue Color Temperature). Manufacturers use these as factory defaults because they produce more eye catching results in garish store lighting. But the "torch mode" factory defaults are way wrong for quality viewing.


I'll say that again: The factory default settings for your TV -- the out of the box settings used in stores -- are almost certainly wrong. By a lot. Every manufacturer is guilty of this.


For many TVs, even the preset "picture modes" intended for quality viewing will have incorrect factory default values. This is why you need to develop your own ability to refine video settings.


Having set the output side of things -- how the Anthem works with your display, you then set the input side of things -- how each source works with the Anthem.


When comparing Component video input to HDMI video input from any given source device, keep in mind that there's no particular reason why the best input levels (set in Video Source Adjust > Picture) will be the same for both. EXAMPLE: My Comcast HD/DVR requires one step less of both Brightness and Contrast for Component input compared to HDMI input.


When setting up different source devices, keep in mind that the best input video levels for one device may very well be different from the best for another device. This is more likely to be the case for Component video devices -- i.e., HDMI devices are more likely to work the best with just one choice of input video levels across all devices. But even with HDMI source devices, this is not guaranteed.


The Anthem puts out a high quality video signal, so if you have a professionally calibrated display, odds are you will not need to make any adjustments in the display's video levels for use with the Anthem. However you may still need to make Video Source Adjust input level adjustments in the Anthem for each source. These adjustments, if needed at all, should be minor.


-------------------------------------------------


For folks setting up a new D2v or AVM 50v, be aware that there are bugs in the gray scale levels implemented in the original firmware. Most have been fixed in the "test" V2.02c firmware, but there is still something screwed up that is keeping the Video Source Adjust settings from being applied correctly all the time (workaround: switch inputs to a different device and back). There is also still a bug that screws up YCbCr input gray scale at least from the PS3 if you have Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space > Extended RGB checked (workaround: check Studio RGB in that menu instead -- and for the PS3, set RGB "Limited" to match this).


This means that when the next "official" firmware comes out, folks should plan on redoing the input video level settings in Video Source Adjust for each source device.


The good news is that the output side of things does not appear to be having any such problems -- which means the video levels you have set in your display (using the Video Source Adjust > Patterns from the Anthem) will likely still be correct.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/15884477
> 
> 
> Is it still a possibility that the D1 can be upgraded to the D2v?



My understanding is that Anthem is planning to offer both D1 -> D2v and AVM 30 -> AVM 50v upgrades. Pricing and first availability dates are not yet known.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Using my new D2v, I've found for the first time that Component video output from my Comcast/Motorola DCH3416 HD/DVR is at least as good, and possibly even better, than HDMI output.


Since Anthem is still working on some bugs related to the correct application of the Video Source Adjust settings (particularly with regard to correct YCbCr gray scale), and since those bugs seem to have slightly different impact on Component input vs. HDMI input, I'll need to revisit this as fixes get released.


But for the moment I've switched to using Component output (and optical digital audio) from my Comcast box.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Adjusting the correction value in Video Source Adjust > Output > Exponential Gamma Correction is very slow to respond in the "test" V2.02c firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v. Anthem has been alerted. (workaround: Be patient)

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15884608
> 
> 
> Using my new D2v, I've found for the first time that Component video output from my Comcast/Motorola DCH3416 HD/DVR is at least as good, and possibly even better, than HDMI output.
> 
> 
> --Bob



And who has been saying this for YEARS


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15884292
> 
> 
> So far we've had no reports here of anyone receiving a new, 220V "high voltage" version of either the D2v or AVM 50v. I posted some info showing that the Anthem's international distributors are supposedly already selling units, but we don't have confirmation yet that any have been delivered.



There is a major consumer Hi-Fi show happening this weekend in the UK and I had confirmation that the Anthem is on demo (sold through Sim).


The cost is an amazing 8,500 UK pounds, which is about $12,250


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15884825
> 
> 
> And who has been saying this for YEARS



Yes, but up to now, with my D2, it was not the case. And after the D2v's early bugs get fixed it may still not be the case.


But for now, a tip of the hat is definitely in order.









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15884873
> 
> 
> There is a major consumer Hi-Fi show happening this weekend in the UK and I had confirmation that the Anthem is on demo (sold through Sim).
> 
> 
> The cost is an amazing 8,500 UK pounds, which is about $12,250



See if you can find out whether 220V units are actually shipping yet.


The backorder report we've seen is for US units so it doesn't even mention the 220V stuff.

--Bob


----------



## mikepebble

Thanks Bob for the look and all the patience you shown me, my questions and help with all my computer goofs.Without your help I would still be fumbling.

Since I have just uploaded 2.01 it will take some time to access.On a quick response' there hasn't been much difference between 1.25 and 2.01.,But I haven't had much time with ver2.01 yet.Both settings seem to not have as much punch in the bass as my first arc experience(have since moved speakers and reset gain and EQ so maybe that part of the difference),however it seems the subtle sounds are now more distinct which I really like!

My rears are ceiling speakers, so I know that is a limitation in my room and my surrounds are dipoles which were installed at the 6ft. height.I don't think I can bring them down.I could maybe rig up a dilting bracket for them but would that even help?

Now is the time to get familiar with the sound and appreciate, with your help ,how far the theatre room has come.I don't have BD or HD (just DVD)yet so in time it should only get better!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikepebble* /forum/post/15885271
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob for the look and all the patience you shown me, my questions and help with all my computer goofs.Without your help I would still be fumbling.
> 
> Since I have just uploaded 2.01 it will take some time to access.On a quick response' there hasn't been much difference between 1.25 and 2.01.,But I haven't had much time with ver2.01 yet.Both settings seem to not have as much punch in the bass as my first arc experience(have since moved speakers and reset gain and EQ so maybe that part of the difference),however it seems the subtle sounds are now more distinct which I really like!
> 
> My rears are ceiling speakers, so I know that is a limitation in my room and my surrounds are dipoles which were installed at the 6ft. height.I don't think I can bring them down.I could maybe rig up a dilting bracket for them but would that even help?
> 
> Now is the time to get familiar with the sound and appreciate, with your help ,how far the theatre room has come.I don't have BD or HD (just DVD)yet so in time it should only get better!



Your Rear Surround speakers really don't need any adjustment. I just mentioned that one little dip for something to talk about.


Your Side Surround speakers are weaker than your other speakers in bass. Re-pointing them won't change that (bass is not all that directional). It is probably just the design of those Side Surround speakers. But check the owner's manual to make sure you haven't overlooked a bass response setting in your Side Surrounds. If they have separate input jacks for bass, make sure those are properly connected to your speaker wires.


If the early results don't change, I think you will be quite excited by the extra deep bass punch coming from what's now the "test" ARC V2.0.1.1.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

Phew, just caught up on the posts. Wife had baby 10 days ago so I wasn't able to keep up with the thread. Amazing how many posts happen in a short period of time.


congrats on the D2v Bob P.


Just wondering, if the Anthem firmware is updated does it alter the way ARC is setup or are the Anthem firmware and ARC versions completely independent? i.e. if firmware 1.34 comes out for D2 and I install it do I have to rerun ARC setup or just leave it?


thanks


----------



## ninja12

I currently have ARC V2.0.1 installed. I downloaded the "test" software for ARC V2.0.1.1 last night. When I tried to install ARC V2.0.1.1, I received an error message that I already had a newer version installed which I found to be a little confusing since ARC V2.0.1.1 is suppose to be newer than ARC V2.0.1. Anyway, do I have to uninstall ARC V2.0.1 before I can install the "test" ARC V2.0.1.1? I believe I recall Bob P. saying that you have to uninstall ARC V2.0.1 before the "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 can be installed. However, I'm not for sure if Bob P. said that or not. Anyway, is it true that ARC V2.0.1 has to be uninstalled before "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 can be installed? If so, then I might just wait until the new official version of ARC becomes available.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/15885838
> 
> 
> Phew, just caught up on the posts. Wife had baby 10 days ago so I wasn't able to keep up with the thread. Amazing how many posts happen in a short period of time.
> 
> 
> congrats on the D2v Bob P.
> 
> 
> Just wondering, if the Anthem firmware is updated does it alter the way ARC is setup or are the Anthem firmware and ARC versions completely independent? i.e. if firmware 1.34 comes out for D2 and I install it do I have to rerun ARC setup or just leave it?
> 
> 
> thanks



It depends on what has changed in the new firmware. If the firmware changes in a way that would alter what the ARC Windows application hears during Measurement, then of course you need to do ARC over again to get the correct results.


If the firmware doesn't change that then you can probably go with your prior ARC results -- although you may want to Upload them again after installing the firmware just to make sure you've got everything set up properly. ARC's Uploaded data is supposed to survive firmware upgrades (once you restore from Saved User or Installer Settings to get your latest Setup menu settings back) but it is so easy to re-Upload your most recent ARC results while you've got the computer attached to do the firmware upgrade, you might as well do that too just to be sure.


For example, changes in the firmware that just improve the way the ARC room correction parameters are actually used during normal listening would not require doing a new ARC setup, since nothing changes during Measurement and of course the Calculations produced by the ARC Windows application also aren't changing.


What all this means is that you need to read the release notes when the new firmware version comes out. Or alternatively, just plan on doing a new ARC setup pass after installing the new firmware regardless.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15886256
> 
> 
> I currently have ARC V2.0.1 installed. I downloaded the "test" software for ARC V2.0.1.1 last night. When I tried to install ARC V2.0.1.1, I received an error message that I already had a newer version installed which I found to be a little confusing since ARC V2.0.1.1 is suppose to be newer than ARC V2.0.1. Anyway, do I have to uninstall ARC V2.0.1 before I can install the "test" ARC V2.0.1.1? I believe I recall Bob P. saying that you have to uninstall ARC V2.0.1 before the "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 can be installed. However, I'm not for sure if Bob P. said that or not. Anyway, is it true that ARC V2.0.1 has to be uninstalled before "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 can be installed? If so, then I might just wait until the new official version of ARC becomes available.



Yes. This is actually in the release notes text file that comes with the "test" V2.0.1.1 ARC.


The ARC installer sees ARC V2.0.1 and "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 as the same version (it doesn't look at the minor version change number).


So if your current version of ARC is V2.0.1 you need to first go into Windows Add/Remove programs and Remove your current ARC. I suggest you reboot after that before installing the new ARC (just normal, healthy, Windows paranoia).


This is no big deal. It is exactly what the installer normally does anyway all by itself -- removing the old version before installing the new version. But if the installer sees the same version already installed, or if you are trying to roll back and install an older version in place of a newer version, you must first do the Remove of your current ARC manually in Windows Add/Remove programs.


Windows Add/Remove programs leaves your pair of licensing/calibration files in place when it is deleting the old ARC, so you won't have to do anything special to get them into the right place when you then install ARC V2.0.1.1


If your current version of ARC is older than V2.0.1 then the installer will just proceed with the install. No need to do anything special.


When this newer ARC becomes "official" it will likely be given a release number of at least V2.0.2, and again the installer will do the right thing all by itself.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab

Dumb/lazy question - Can anyone quickly (and simply) explain how to connect the D2v to my P2 and P5 so that they turn on/off via trigger? Right now they are set to turn on/off automatically (sensing sound/no sound), but I'd prefer them to be triggered with the D2v.


Also, if anyone wants serial commands, I've been perfecting them, so just post or PM me. The D2v is surprisingly reliable via RS232. I've got a nice LB toggle that rotates through the three crop options (normal, HD LB, SD LB) and puts some text on screen so you know which one it's at. (I also have the crop reset when you stop watching something and go to a menu, since you'll want "normal" at that point anyway.)


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15890969
> 
> 
> Dumb/lazy question - Can anyone quickly (and simply) explain how to connect the D2v to my P2 and P5 so that they turn on/off via trigger? Right now they are set to turn on/off automatically (sensing sound/no sound), but I'd prefer them to be triggered with the D2v.
> 
> 
> Also, if anyone wants serial commands, I've been perfecting them, so just post or PM me. The D2v is surprisingly reliable via RS232. I've got a nice LB toggle that rotates through the three crop options (normal, HD LB, SD LB) and puts some text on screen so you know which one it's at. (I also have the crop reset when you stop watching something and go to a menu, since you'll want "normal" at that point anyway.)
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I don't know what style of trigger jack the P2 and P5 use but the D2v uses a simple, mono-audio mini-jack such as can be found on cords at Radio Shack for use with portable mono audio devices. If the P2 and P5 use a different style of jack, or if you want to trigger both of them off of one trigger output from the D2v, just buy a mono-audio mini-jack cable of the right length along with a cable with the right jack for each of the P2 and P5. Then cut off the plug at one end of each wire, and attach the bare wire ends together using the simple twist on caps sold for that purpose. You don't need anything special in the way of cables -- certainly nothing expensive. It is only a 12-volt signal, and there's no issue of shielding or cable signal quality. Just be sure you haven't shorted the trigger wires.


The polarity of the 12-volt signal sent out by the D2v is "tip positive, sleeve ground" on that mini-jack -- see the Specifications page in the Manual. It is likely the P2 and P5 don't care about the polarity of the trigger they are receiving, but check their Manual and swap the pair of wires from the D2v if necessary.


The D2v outputs a continuous 12-volt signal of that polarity while the trigger is active. Some devices accept either a continuous 12-volt signal or a pulse signal that pulses once to turn on and again to turn off. Usually there is a switch on the device to set that. Set it for a continuous 12-volt trigger input.


The D2v has 3 trigger outputs that you can use, and you can drive multiple devices off of one trigger output by simply tying the wires together. Trigger 3 supports higher current on the trigger signal than Triggers 1 and 2. Triggers 1 and 2 support up to 50mAmp and Trigger 3 up to 200mA -- again see the Specifications page in the Manual. Check the Manual for the P2 and P5 as to how much current they draw on the trigger input. Typically Trigger 3 would be used to trigger a motor that raises/lowers a screen or to trigger some amps that put more draw on their trigger input.


Some folks have even used Trigger 3 to directly power a small box fan for extra ventilation.


[For newbies: If you have devices you would like to trigger but that don't have trigger inputs, there are power strips sold with trigger inputs. Use the trigger to turn on the power strip, and plug the device into that power strip.]


The three D2v triggers turn on one after the other with a 250ms delay between each. So you can use separate triggers to keep your devices from putting their startup draw on your wall power all at the same time. Power amps, for example, typically put much more draw on the wall power while turning on than they do after that.


Having chosen and wired the triggers you want to use, go into Setup > Triggers, IR & RS232, set All Triggers to Enabled, and then go into the chart for each Trigger you have decided to use. In that chart scroll around and set or clear the entries in the list of event items to select the events you want to turn that trigger on. There are separate event items for each of the control & signal paths in the D2v (i.e., Main vs. Zone 2). In the simplest setup you just need one item set -- the "Main" path column of the "Power" line in the chart for your chosen trigger output. This will cause that trigger to be turned on continuously whenever the Main path of the D2v is powered on. See Section 3.11 of the Manual.


Be sure to Save User and/or Installer Settings after getting this working to capture these changes. We've had several cases of folks posting here that their main speaker outputs had failed when in fact they had simply done something (like reloading a not quite up to date version of Saved User Settings) that undid their Trigger configuration setup.


-----------------------------------------------------


If you have your RS-232 setup in some sort of file format (e.g., an Excel spreadsheet) that you can attach to a post here, by all means do so. I'm sure that lots of folks have wondered whether switching to an RS-232 control system might be worth the effort.


For newbies: The Anthems have much more extensive controls available via the RS-232 input than they have via the normal remote control inputs. These are typically used by custom installers who install a configurable remote control device (e.g., Crestron) to send the RS-232 commands. This device itself is commanded to do things by a remote control paired with it. There is an Excel spreadsheet included in the ARC software install kit (downloadable from the Anthem public download page) that defines the current set of RS-232 commands.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In my D2v, for Component video input from my Comcast cable box (480i for SD channels and 1080i for HD channels), I am currently using Video Source Adjust > Picture:


Detail Enhancement: Level 8, Noise Level 15

Noise Reduction: Level 25


I've found that Detail Enhancement levels of 10 or above produce more haloing around contrasty edges than I like. In some cases you will even see things that look like de-interlacing jaggies but are actually just ripples of haloing. Modern, digitally produced cartoons offer good, high-contrast, example images for checking this.


I've not yet found a good way to see the effect of the Noise Level setting in Detail Enhancement, so the value of 15 is just a guess.


For Noise Reduction, you can easily see the blurring of the imaging if you crank it all the way up. In my case I'm looking for a setting that helps reduce the macro-blocking and mosquito noise in SD channels (largely due to the heavy-handed re-compression Comcast imposes on those) without also blurring HD channels. I started with 20 for this, but I've now boosted it up to 25 and so far so good.


As I said before, you don't want either of these turned on for high quality input sources such as Blu-Ray. When you do use Noise Reduction it is generally also useful to add some Detail Enhancement to counter the blurring.


If others have found setting combos that work well, please do post them here.


And again, the processing in the D2v and AVM 50v is different from that in the D2 and AVM 50, so settings that work well with the newer hardware don't really apply to the older hardware and vice versa. So be sure to specify which model of Anthem you have.


---------------------------------------------


I've also discovered that the Component feed from my Comcast box shows noise at the top of the image if it is set to scale SD channels up to 1080i output. I.e., when using 1080i from the Comcast for SD channels, I need a Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Edges On value to eliminate noise at the top of the image that is not present if I use 480i from the Comcast for those channels. This is presumably an error in the upscaling code in the Comcast box.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15892112
> 
> 
> I've also discovered that the Component feed from my Comcast box shows noise at the top of the image if it is set to scale SD channels up to 1080i output. I.e., when using 1080i from the Comcast for SD channels, I need a Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Edges On value to eliminate noise at the top of the image that is not present if I use 480i from the Comcast for those channels. This is presumably an error in the upscaling code in the Comcast box.
> 
> --Bob



I don't know if it is your Comcast Box or not?


I have Comcast as my Cable provider. But I would never use a

Comcast Box. I just insert Cable Cards in my SONY DVRs.


I see the exact same NEED to Crop with my Sony DVRs and D2.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15891894
> 
> 
> I don't know what style of trigger jack the P2 and P5 use but the D2v uses a simple, mono-audio mini-jack such as can be found on cords at Radio Shack for use with portable mono audio devices. If the P2 and P5 use a different style of jack, or if you want to trigger both of them off of one trigger output from the D2v, just buy a mono-audio mini-jack cable of the right length along with a cable with the right jack for each of the P2 and P5. Then cut off the plug at one end of each wire, and attach the bare wire ends together using the simple twist on caps sold for that purpose. You don't need anything special in the way of cables -- certainly nothing expensive. It is only a 12-volt signal, and there's no issue of shielding or cable signal quality. Just be sure you haven't shorted the trigger wires.



Couldn't I just split the 1/8" mono plug with a regular 1/8" mono "Y" cable? Or is that a big no-no?


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15884608
> 
> 
> Using my new D2v, I've found for the first time that Component video output from my Comcast/Motorola DCH3416 HD/DVR is at least as good, and possibly even better, than HDMI output.
> 
> 
> Since Anthem is still working on some bugs related to the correct application of the Video Source Adjust settings (particularly with regard to correct YCbCr gray scale), and since those bugs seem to have slightly different impact on Component input vs. HDMI input, I'll need to revisit this as fixes get released.
> 
> 
> But for the moment I've switched to using Component output (and optical digital audio) from my Comcast box.
> 
> --Bob



So here's a simple but important question for D2v owners - how much better is the video on the D2v vs. the D2? Obviously Bob thinks that scaling of component is much better on the D2v - how about HDMI? 480i => 1080p? 1080i => 1080p? 720p => 1080p?


To me this is the real $64,000 question regarding whether I should upgrade or not.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15884608
> 
> 
> Using my new D2v, I've found for the first time that Component video output from my Comcast/Motorola DCH3416 HD/DVR is at least as good, and possibly even better, than HDMI output.



I'm guessing that's specific to the Comcast box, and perhaps your/version of the Comcast box?


I know that my Tivo S3 looks slightly better via HDMI than component.


In fairness, none of these are radically different. But I prefer HDMI anyway, as it's fewer cables.


And I have 8 inputs to use up now!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15892800
> 
> 
> Couldn't I just split the 1/8" mono plug with a regular 1/8" mono "Y" cable? Or is that a big no-no?



Sure, that's fine too, so long as the P2 and P5 take the same type of mini-jack plug.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

i have a question regarding line conditioners and apc units. if 'you' want to shunt me to a different post, ok, but i'll ask here as i trust the knowledge base.

i have a monster line conditioner feeding six components, no amps, and only three are active at any one time. (d2; jvc projector; pioneer blu ray; arcam transport; sony dvd; direct tv dvr









question relates to a ups unit, to be located downstream from the monster unit. i want the monster first in line for the 120v constant, plus the pure sine wave. i would output one plug to the ups, which would then provide power to the dvr; d2; and the projector.

all of this, as i live in fl, lightening cap of the known universe. plus brownouts, surges - i could go on.

my question is: is this a safe thing to do? are there issues i lack the knowledge to anticipate? _stan_ at _apc_ felt it would work, but, officially, the company says not to do it.

insights are requested.

i thank "you" in advance.

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15893054
> 
> 
> So here's a simple but important question for D2v owners - how much better is the video on the D2v vs. the D2? Obviously Bob thinks that scaling of component is much better on the D2v - how about HDMI? 480i => 1080p? 1080i => 1080p? 720p => 1080p?
> 
> 
> To me this is the real $64,000 question regarding whether I should upgrade or not.



Actually I'm not sure it is the scaling of Component at all since I think that Component 1080i input into my D2v also looks better than Component 1080i input into my older D2.


It may be the analog video digitizing portion of the video board -- the part that converts Component input to digital video for processing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15893156
> 
> 
> I'm guessing that's specific to the Comcast box, and perhaps your/version of the Comcast box?
> 
> 
> I know that my Tivo S3 looks slightly better via HDMI than component.
> 
> 
> In fairness, none of these are radically different. But I prefer HDMI anyway, as it's fewer cables.
> 
> 
> And I have 8 inputs to use up now!



There are still some bugs that need to be fixed in the D2v firmware that probably have an impact on true Component and HDMI quality. So I'll revisit this after that stuff gets fixed and see if HDMI moves into the lead again.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15893422
> 
> 
> Actually I'm not sure it is the scaling of Component at all since I think that Component 1080i input into my D2v also looks better than Component 1080i input into my older D2.
> 
> 
> It may be the analog video digitizing portion of the video board -- the part that converts Component input to digital video for processing.
> 
> --Bob



So does anyone think that HDMI video at any resolution looks better on the D2 than the D2v?


----------



## glennQNYC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15893471
> 
> 
> So does anyone think that HDMI video at any resolution looks better on the D2 than the D2v?



Not me! The D2v's new algorithms and hardware has brought performance up a notch or two IMO.


glennQ


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15893414
> 
> 
> i have a question regarding line conditioners and apc units. if 'you' want to shunt me to a different post, ok, but i'll ask here as i trust the knowledge base.
> 
> i have a monster line conditioner feeding six components, no amps, and only three are active at any one time. (d2; jvc projector; pioneer blu ray; arcam transport; sony dvd; direct tv dvr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> question relates to a ups unit, to be located downstream from the monster unit. i want the monster first in line for the 120v constant, plus the pure sine wave. i would output one plug to the ups, which would then provide power to the dvr; d2; and the projector.
> 
> all of this, as i live in fl, lightening cap of the known universe. plus brownouts, surges - i could go on.
> 
> my question is: is this a safe thing to do? are there issues i lack the knowledge to anticipate? _stan_ at _apc_ felt it would work, but, officially, the company says not to do it.
> 
> insights are requested.
> 
> i thank "you" in advance.
> 
> walt



The output of a battery backup unit whenvever the battery kicks in is not going to be all that clean (although it probably doesn't matter much after the lights go out), so if you are going to use both I would suggest putting the battery backup between the intermittent wall power and your power conditioner.


I'm a fan of using a battery backup (which is usually also a surge protector) for any device that has a hard drive or that takes a significant amount of time to boot up after a power glitch. I'm not a fan of using line conditioners. I trust to the power supplies built into each device to do what a line conditioner would have done.


The big issue is to make sure any stuff you put in the power line path is able to handle the draw made on it by whatever equipment you have plugged into it. This is particular important if a plugged in device has significant variations in its power draw -- such as typically happens whenever a power amp is turned on.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/15893471
> 
> 
> So does anyone think that HDMI video at any resolution looks better on the D2 than the D2v?



I have a D2 - and NO D2v - so I have no knowledge of how much

better the D2v Video Processing MIGHT BE.


But I do have a 1080p PJ on a 13ft screen.


I can't imagine the D2v video processing would improve my PQ

enough to make it worth while. If it did improve the PQ because of

better video processing - I probably would not SEE IT unless I

upgraded to a newer PJ.


But WITHOUT a D2v to compare it against - it is just an educated guess.


BTW - neither Anthem should be doing much of anything to HDMI sources

unless you are looking at 480i content over HDMI. We are in the Digital

HD age now. Almost everything I watch is HD content.


That is my OLD FRAT Two Cent Opinion.


Please feel free to send me WHACKS










Any new upgrade in my Future will be a PJ and that isn't

going to happen soon either. Not until a 4K PJ is available.


----------



## snweiler

AbMagFab,


Both the P2 and the P5 have a trigger input and a trigger output so you can chain them together. Just run one 1/8 mono cable from the D2v trigger output to the P2 (or P5) trigger input and then a second from the P2 output to the P5 input. Bobs comment about using trigger 3 probably still applies.


Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snweiler* /forum/post/15893726
> 
> 
> AbMagFab,
> 
> 
> Both the P2 and the P5 have a trigger input and a trigger output so you can chain them together. Just run one 1/8 mono cable from the D2v trigger output to the P2 (or P5) trigger input and then a second from the P2 output to the P5 input. Bobs comment about using trigger 3 probably still applies.
> 
> 
> Steve



Steve, do you know if there's a delay built into that trigger daisy chain so that the P2 and P5 are not both doing their power up draw at the same time.


Of course if you've got them on separate, dedicated circuits (which I gather the P5, at least, almost requires) that wouldn't be an issue.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15893706
> 
> 
> I have a D2 - and NO D2v - so I have no knowledge of how much
> 
> better the D2v Video Processing MIGHT BE.
> 
> 
> But I do have a 1080p PJ on a 13ft screen.
> 
> 
> I can't imagine the D2v video processing would improve my PQ
> 
> enough to make it worth while. If it did improve the PQ because of
> 
> better video processing - I probably would not SEE IT unless I
> 
> upgraded to a newer PJ.
> 
> 
> But WITHOUT a D2v to compare it against - it is just an educated guess.
> 
> 
> BTW - neither Anthem should be doing much of anything to HDMI sources
> 
> unless you are looking at 480i content over HDMI. We are in the Digital
> 
> HD age now. Almost everything I watch is HD content.



The 12 bit video path through the D2v should provide cleaner application of any video processing you choose to do on an HDMI input -- even when the video input is only 8 bit and the final result is trimmed down to 8 bit for output to the projector.


That would include things like video level adjustment, video data format conversion, gamma correction, and, of course, scaling of SD content.


Data path aside, the algorithms used for Noise Reduction and Detail Enhancement are also improved, so that if you find use for either of these, the D2v should provide a better result.


De-interlacing is also improved in the D2v over the D2, although one particular aspect of that -- advanced detection of less commonly used film-mode repeat cadences -- has not yet been enabled in the current firmware.


And Nick tells me they are waiting on one particular VXP firmware fix from Sigma Designs (related to the dual HDMI outputs) and they will be able to ship firmware that enables proper frame rate conversion of film-based content that has been raised to 60fps for broadcast or for SD-DVD -- i.e., 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion for film-based content.


So there really are things that MIGHT produce visible improvements with your HDMI sourced video and with your current projector.


But as you know, the D2 itself is already so good that it's not likely to be a dramatic improvement.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15893542
> 
> 
> The output of a battery backup unit whenvever the battery kicks in is not going to be all that clean (although it probably doesn't matter much after the lights go out), so if you are going to use both I would suggest putting the battery backup between the intermittent wall power and your power conditioner.
> 
> 
> I'm a fan of using a battery backup (which is usually also a surge protector) for any device that has a hard drive or that takes a significant amount of time to boot up after a power glitch. I'm not a fan of using line conditioners. I trust to the power supplies built into each device to do what a line conditioner would have done.
> 
> 
> The big issue is to make sure any stuff you put in the power line path is able to handle the draw made on it by whatever equipment you have plugged into it. This is particular important if a plugged in device has significant variations in its power draw -- such as typically happens whenever a power amp is turned on.
> 
> --Bob



Putting anything in front of the line conditioner would require that it be robust enough to handle the entire needs of the l/c. This becomes a very large , expensive piece of equipment. "No gots the bucks".









My understanding of a ups unit is that it will 'pass thru' whatever quality feed comes to it - but - when there is a power failure, the ups will revert to inverter mode, and the quality degrades from a sine wave to, lets say, a sawtooth, or the like, wave. I am ok with that! However, i want to preserve the sine wave for the 99% of the time the power company does its job. For the other 1%, when the proj is powering down due to a power issue, I do not care what shape the wave is- I just want to preserve the bulb, etc.

So - is it that I CANNOT put the ups in line AFTER the l/c , for the three items i really care about?

Again, there are no amps in the loop. The p5 has its own 20A circuit.

walt


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15893880
> 
> 
> Steve, do you know if there's a delay built into that trigger daisy chain so that the P2 and P5 are not both doing their power up draw at the same time.
> 
> 
> Of course if you've got them on separate, dedicated circuits (which I gather the P5, at least, almost requires) that wouldn't be an issue.
> 
> --Bob



The P2 and P5 have a smart power-up feature, so that's not an issue. They have a gradual power draw to full load.


And the P5 really doesn't need separate circuits, even under very heavy load with low resistance speakers. Just a good dedicated circuit for it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15894149
> 
> 
> Putting anything in front of the line conditioner would require that it be robust enough to handle the entire needs of the l/c. This becomes a very large , expensive piece of equipment. "No gots the bucks".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My understanding of a ups unit is that it will 'pass thru' whatever quality feed comes to it - but - when there is a power failure, the ups will revert to inverter mode, and the quality degrades from a sine wave to, lets say, a sawtooth, or the like, wave. I am ok with that! However, i want to preserve the sine wave for the 99% of the time the power company does its job. For the other 1%, when the proj is powering down due to a power issue, I do not care what shape the wave is- I just want to preserve the bulb, etc.
> 
> So - is it that I CANNOT put the ups in line AFTER the l/c , for the three items i really care about?
> 
> Again, there are no amps in the loop. The p5 has its own 20A circuit.
> 
> walt



Sure, you can use the battery backup after the line conditioner. I'm pretty sure there is just a relay passing through the input power so long as that doesn't drop below a trigger voltage level or spike above the level that triggers the surge protector. For normal output from your line conditioner, the battery backup is likely to be transparent. Some of the input voltage is tapped to keep the battery charged of course, so there might be a brief wiggle on the output line when the charger decides to cycle.


As I said, I don't use a line conditioner at all -- just the battery backup. That rides over glitches, and lets me shut things down gracefully for longer failures. And it also provides surge protection.


Or you could get two line conditioners: One for the items you don't want on battery backup and one for the feed from the battery backup.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I commented on this before, there is a definitely an improvement on video of the D2v. I notice it on all sources and in both displays TV & PK. I wouldn't call it a "knock your socks off" improvement but it is there.


I also believe there is an audio improvement also but as stated before that could just be the new ARC software but I think it is more.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15894262
> 
> 
> I commented on this before, there is a definitely an improvement on video of the D2v. I notice it on all sources and in both displays TV & PK. I wouldn't call it a "knock your socks off" improvement but it is there.
> 
> 
> I also believe there is an audio improvement also but as stated before that could just be the new ARC software but I think it is more.



Do you by any chance have HDMI V1.3 "Deep Color" capable source devices and display?

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

As always, thank you for the help.

Walt


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15894149
> 
> 
> Putting anything in front of the line conditioner would require that it be robust enough to handle the entire needs of the l/c. This becomes a very large , expensive piece of equipment. "No gots the bucks".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My understanding of a ups unit is that it will 'pass thru' whatever quality feed comes to it - but - when there is a power failure, the ups will revert to inverter mode, and the quality degrades from a sine wave to, lets say, a sawtooth, or the like, wave. I am ok with that! However, i want to preserve the sine wave for the 99% of the time the power company does its job. For the other 1%, when the proj is powering down due to a power issue, I do not care what shape the wave is- I just want to preserve the bulb, etc.
> 
> So - is it that I CANNOT put the ups in line AFTER the l/c , for the three items i really care about?
> 
> Again, there are no amps in the loop. The p5 has its own 20A circuit.
> 
> walt



Many UPS's are true sine wave. Just check the specs, and APC's web site, for example.


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15894277
> 
> 
> Do you by any chance have HDMI V1.3 "Deep Color" capable source devices and display?
> 
> --Bob



No I can't decide on one, I think I will wait for the new OPPO. Both my displays are 1080p capable.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15894151
> 
> 
> The P2 and P5 have a smart power-up feature, so that's not an issue. They have a gradual power draw to full load.
> 
> 
> And the P5 really doesn't need separate circuits, even under very heavy load with low resistance speakers. Just a good dedicated circuit for it.



I agree that the P5 really doesn't need a separate circuit; but, based on the specs, it's highly recommended that it does have its own dedicated line. As for the trigger, how do you plan on setting up your system? If you are going to do 2 channel listening, then you probably just want the P2 on and the P5 off. The P5 sitting idle will probably be using electrical power unnecessarily. If that's the case, you should probably use Trigger 1 and Trigger 2 on the D2v. Trigger 1 can be for the P2, and Trigger 2 could be for the P5. Then you will have to do what Bob mentioned earlier by going into the Triggers and set up each component to appropriately to make sure the proper amp is turned on based on what's selected.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15894459
> 
> 
> No I can't decide on one, I think I will wait for the new OPPO. Both my displays are 1080p capable.



I find it interesting that you are seeing an immediate improvement in video with the D2v. So if you don't mind I'm going to go after some more details here so we can better nail down just what has happened.


First are you currently using the "test" V2.02c firmware or one of the older "official" versions?


Next, did you redo your video levels setup for the D2v? You had a D2 before, correct? How comfortable were you that your final setup for the D2 was as good as it could be before you swapped it out for the D2v? Is there anything new you did this time -- any new tools used for example -- to set up video for the D2v?


Are you using primarily HDMI video input sources? Is it just the D2v that changed out or did you also upgrade sources and/or display at the same time?

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/15894632
> 
> 
> I agree that the P5 really doesn't need a separate circuit; but, based on the specs, it's highly recommended that it does have its own dedicated line. As for the trigger, how do you plan on setting up your system? If you are going to do 2 channel listening, then you probably just want the P2 on and the P5 off. The P5 sitting idle will probably be using electrical power unnecessarily. If that's the case, you should probably use Trigger 1 and Trigger 2 on the D2v. Trigger 1 can be for the P2, and Trigger 2 could be for the P5. Then you will have to do what Bob mentioned earlier by going into the Triggers and set up each component to appropriately to make sure the proper amp is turned on based on what's selected.



90% of my use is HT, so I think daisy-chaining is fine. I don't think the extra $0.50 of electricity will kill me or the environment for that


----------



## spiderv6

Well, the lack of HDMI on my PJ was just too much for me to bear so I went and ordered one this afternoon. My Pioneer Elite PRO FPJ1 will be with me on Wednesday.


Does anyone have one of these running on their D2/v? Any setup advice appreciated.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15894964
> 
> 
> Well, the lack of HDMI on my PJ was just too much for me to bear so I went and ordered one this afternoon. My Pioneer Elite PRO FPJ1 will be with me on Wednesday.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have one of these running on their D2/v? Any setup advice appreciated.



I had no CLUE Pioneer even had a PJ.


But in looking it up - I see it is a JVC - Re-Badged


There are a lot of D2's with a JVC PJ


I think I can predict a lot of these HAPPY BOYS







in your future.


BTW - I'll be in Secaucus tomorrow doing a Mitsubishi PJ installation.

I'm sure your PJ will be better.


----------



## "MIKEY"




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15866134
> 
> 
> ...I thought that particular Pioneer was able to send out HDMI 480i for SD-DVD discs. If so, you ought to give that a try too. Then you can pick whichever way you like better.
> 
> --Bob



Amazing! I am seeing for the first time what the D2's video processor can do since replacing an Oppo 970 with a Pioneer BDP-51 player. When sending out HDMI 480i for SD-DVD movies, the picture is fantastic on my display!


Now I wondering, why?


The Oppo was no slouch, but with the Pioneer, the audio & video were vastly improved even though I was sending out the same HDMI 480i SD-DVD material.


Again, The picture is simply amazing & I feel that I'm seeing the benefits of the Anthem's video processing capability for the first time.


----------



## shawnwalters

Bob (and others), I saw this post by you last month on the differences between the avm50v and the d2v:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=17883 


I was at my dealer today and wanted info on the d2v. My listening is probably 95%HT, 5% music. I've got Studio 100's for LCR, ADP-590 and Studio 10's for surrounds/rears. He pushed me to get the avm50v instead since it's a better deal, yada yada. He was not sure exactly of the differences so he called his guy at Anthem. He was on the phone with him and the guy told him the only differences were the Better DAC in the d2v, but everything else was identical. I am not sure if my ears are sophisticated enough to hear the better DAC over the avm50v, but my question is, are there other differences than what you posted last month (that maybe the anthem guy left out)?


I am ok with either the d2v or the avm50v, but if I can save $2000 and not notice the difference I would do it. But if it's a noticeable difference even to newbies, maybe the d2v is worth it.


He also loaned me a AVM30 (since he doesn't have the 50v or the d2v in stock) to try out instead of my Denon 3808 to see if I hear any improvement. Is the avm30 enough of a step up from the denon to get an idea if the avm50v or d2v will benefit me?


Thanks,

Shawn


----------



## MStanic

I have a Servo 15 (not the V2) and just ordered a SUB15..the newer Paradigm model replacing the Servo 15 V2. I could have picked up a new Signature Servo in maple which looked amazing. I went with the SUB15 primarily because I can order it in the cherry cabinet which suits my setup. The deal was pretty amazing, however, on the Signature Servo (as it's now a discontinued model). Any thoughts on these and which would you have picked aside from cabinet color. Does anybody know if the SUB15 has the amp stamped/showing in the back of the sub like the signature servo? How is the cabinet finish on the SUB15 in comparison to the Signature Servo?


I know this isn't the thread for this but just thought I'd get some feedback from fellow Anthem Preamp owners.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15893880
> 
> 
> Steve, do you know if there's a delay built into that trigger daisy chain so that the P2 and P5 are not both doing their power up draw at the same time.
> 
> 
> Of course if you've got them on separate, dedicated circuits (which I gather the P5, at least, almost requires) that wouldn't be an issue.
> 
> --Bob



there may also be the case where you want them from seperate triggers in the D2 is cases wher you only want to power the P2 for stereo music and not power the P5 for surround. You have to program these as seperate tirggers in the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/15896056
> 
> 
> Bob (and others), I saw this post by you last month on the differences between the avm50v and the d2v:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=17883
> 
> 
> I was at my dealer today and wanted info on the d2v. My listening is probably 95%HT, 5% music. I've got Studio 100's for LCR, ADP-590 and Studio 10's for surrounds/rears. He pushed me to get the avm50v instead since it's a better deal, yada yada. He was not sure exactly of the differences so he called his guy at Anthem. He was on the phone with him and the guy told him the only differences were the Better DAC in the d2v, but everything else was identical. I am not sure if my ears are sophisticated enough to hear the better DAC over the avm50v, but my question is, are there other differences than what you posted last month (that maybe the anthem guy left out)?
> 
> 
> I am ok with either the d2v or the avm50v, but if I can save $2000 and not notice the difference I would do it. But if it's a noticeable difference even to newbies, maybe the d2v is worth it.
> 
> 
> He also loaned me a AVM30 (since he doesn't have the 50v or the d2v in stock) to try out instead of my Denon 3808 to see if I hear any improvement. Is the avm30 enough of a step up from the denon to get an idea if the avm50v or d2v will benefit me?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Shawn



The post you cited remains my best take so far on what we know about the differences between the D2v and the AVM 50v.


There is no difference in video, but there is a difference in audio. It is more than just DACs -- see that post.


The audio section of the AVM 30 and the original AVM 50 are the same, so using the AVM 30 to evaluate audio is a good way to go. (In the Statement product line, the audio section of the D1 is the same as that in the D2.)


I don't believe we've had any reports yet comparing the AVM 50 audio to the audio from the new AVM 50v, but based on what we know about what's changed between the units I wouldn't expect any differences for input formats they both can play. The AVM 50v goes beyond the AVM 50 by extending HDMI LPCM input up to 7.1 channels at up to 192KHz/24 bit, as well as the ability to internally decode TrueHD and DTS-HD MA HDMI Bitstreams. In addition, Anthem has announced that the new "Dolby Volume" feature will be coming to the AVM 50v as a free firmware update. The bottom line, however, is that your trial of the AVM 30 will give you a good idea of what the AVM 50v can do with stereo audio inputs as well as traditional DD 5.1 and DTS as from SD-DVD discs. You won't of course be able to hear what it can do with high bandwidth multi-channel HDMI LPCM from Blu-Ray players.


If you search back a bit in this thread, poster JAYRAY, who moved from an AVM 50 to a new D2v, has posted quite enthusiastic comments about the audio improvement he is hearing. That's probably the best, recent example we have of someone who is very familiar with the AVM 50 describing what he's now getting having stepped up to the D2v.


The AVM 50v is no slouch of course. You'll know that as soon as you give your trial AVM 30 a listen. But the D2v is better. Whether it is $2000 better is something only you can answer.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/15896057
> 
> 
> Amazing! I am seeing for the first time what the D2's video processor can do since replacing an Oppo 970 with a Pioneer BDP-51 player. When sending out HDMI 480i for SD-DVD movies, the picture is fantastic on my display!
> 
> 
> Now I wondering, why?
> 
> 
> The Oppo was no slouch, but with the Pioneer, the audio & video were vastly improved even though I was sending out the same HDMI 480i SD-DVD material.
> 
> 
> Again, The picture is simply amazing & I feel that I'm seeing the benefits of the Anthem's video processing capability for the first time.



As far as I know the Oppo 970, with current firmware, does a fine job of MPEG decoding and color upsampling which are the two main processing steps essential for getting the content off the SD-DVD disc and out the HDMI as 480i. So I can only guess that there was some setup error in the way you had the Oppo connected to your D2. The Oppo was only average at producing video above 480i, so if you had it sending out anything higher that alone could be the difference.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm testing my D2v with a new Blu-Ray player that supports TrueHD and DTS-HD MA bitstream output. This player is not yet released, so I'm limited in what I can say about it.


But I wanted to mention one result that's relevant to my recent report of bugs when sending 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM into the D2v for down-mixing in the D2v to my 5.1 speaker system.


I had previously reported that sending 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM channel audio from the PS3 to the D2v resulted in audio from my Center speaker that sounded like it was not having its ARC corrections properly applied. In addition, the Select button display of the speaker output included a bogus Center Rear speaker in the list of active speakers.


Sending 5.1 channel HDMI LPCM of the same track to the D2v (down-mixed to 5.1 by the PS3) had no such problems.


One track that showed these problems is the 7.1 DTS-HD MA track from "Hairspray" Blu-Ray.


Well I've now found that sending that track as a 7.1 channel HDMI bitstream to the D2v for decoding in the D2v does *NOT* produce any problem in Center speaker audio in my 5.1 speaker configuration. It sounds perfect.


In addition, there's no bogus Center Rear speaker in the Select button display of speaker output.


However there IS at least one bug. The Select button display of channel input does not show the LR/RR input channels.


The Video Source Adjust > Info panel shows 8 channel input as expected. So this may just be a bug in the formatting of this Select display.


But if in fact the D2v is only seeing this as a 5.1 track after decoding (which would be a bug), that might explain why I'm hearing no problem in the Center speaker.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15898005
> 
> 
> 
> One track that showed these problems is the 7.1 DTS-HD MA track from "Hairspray" Blu-Ray.
> 
> 
> Well I've now found that sending that track as a 7.1 channel HDMI bitstream to the D2v for decoding in the D2v does *NOT* produce any problem in Center speaker audio in my 5.1 speaker configuration. It sounds perfect.
> 
> 
> In addition, there's no bogus Center Rear speaker in the Select button display of speaker output.
> 
> 
> However there IS at least one bug. The Select button display of channel input does not show the LR/RR input channels.
> 
> 
> The Video Source Adjust > Info panel shows 8 channel input as expected. So this may just be a bug in the formatting of this Select display.
> 
> 
> But if in fact the D2v is only seeing this as a 5.1 track after decoding (which would be a bug), that might explain why I'm hearing no problem in the Center speaker.
> 
> --Bob



Bob.. were you still using "Hairspray" when you found this display bug?


If so, the film proper uses one of the alternate Speaker Configurations of DTS-HD MA 7.1... this also affected many AVR's and processors..


If that is the title, see if the New Line BR logo comes up and the LR RR bug goes away (the logo's are in the "Standard" 7.1.....)


PS.. now that you are bitstreaming, can you tell me what the Bit Rate reads as on DTS-HD MA? Or does it say nothing...


----------



## shawnwalters

Can someone (maybe someone has already) post a screenshot of the GUI on a D2v?


Also, I see screenshots of the ARC showing graphs of the sound levels. Are those just reports, or do you have to know how to edit those in order to do the ARC? In other words is it hard to use? I have a denon 3808 with Audyssey EQ and it's very easy to use, albeit not as good as the ARC, but easy. Is the ARC easy to use for a newbie to the audio world?


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15897609
> 
> 
> The post you cited remains my best take so far on what we know about the differences between the D2v and the AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> There is no difference in video, but there is a difference in audio. It is more than just DACs -- see that post.
> 
> 
> The audio section of the AVM 30 and the original AVM 50 are the same, so using the AVM 30 to evaluate audio is a good way to go. (In the Statement product line, the audio section of the D1 is the same as that in the D2.)
> 
> 
> I don't believe we've had any reports yet comparing the AVM 50 audio to the audio from the new AVM 50v, but based on what we know about what's changed between the units I wouldn't expect any differences for input formats they both can play. The AVM 50v goes beyond the AVM 50 by extending HDMI LPCM input up to 7.1 channels at up to 192KHz/24 bit, as well as the ability to internally decode TrueHD and DTS-HD MA HDMI Bitstreams. In addition, Anthem has announced that the new "Dolby Volume" feature will be coming to the AVM 50v as a free firmware update. The bottom line, however, is that your trial of the AVM 30 will give you a good idea of what the AVM 50v can do with stereo audio inputs as well as traditional DD 5.1 and DTS as from SD-DVD discs. You won't of course be able to hear what it can do with high bandwidth multi-channel HDMI LPCM from Blu-Ray players.
> 
> 
> If you search back a bit in this thread, poster JAYRAY, who moved from an AVM 50 to a new D2v, has posted quite enthusiastic comments about the audio improvement he is hearing. That's probably the best, recent example we have of someone who is very familiar with the AVM 50 describing what he's now getting having stepped up to the D2v.
> 
> 
> The AVM 50v is no slouch of course. You'll know that as soon as you give your trial AVM 30 a listen. But the D2v is better. Whether it is $2000 better is something only you can answer.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you very much for the info!


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/15898065
> 
> 
> Can someone (maybe someone has already) post a screenshot of the GUI on a D2v?



Until someone posts pics.


The manual has pretty good diagrams..


There are three different "GUI's" on the D2/D2v...


The setup menu looks like it does in the manual... it is basic text over a solid colored background.. you don't see picture/source when in the setup menu.


The volume and source information display overlay's the source as white text on the bottom of the screen..


The Video Adjust menu is as it looks in the manual, overlaid on the picture.. very sharp..


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15898086
> 
> 
> The volume and source information display overlay's the source as white text on the bottom of the screen..
> 
> 
> The Video Adjust menu is as it looks in the manual, overlaid on the picture.. very sharp..



Thanks, this is what I was looking/hoping for


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/15898065
> 
> 
> Can someone (maybe someone has already) post a screenshot of the GUI on a D2v?
> 
> 
> Also, I see screenshots of the ARC showing graphs of the sound levels. Are those just reports, or do you have to know how to edit those in order to do the ARC? In other words is it hard to use? I have a denon 3808 with Audyssey EQ and it's very easy to use, albeit not as good as the ARC, but easy. Is the ARC easy to use for a newbie to the audio world?



There is an automatic mode for ARC setup that goes through the Measurement, Calculations, and Upload process without you having to do anything more than describing your speaker configuration and placing the mic properly at the minimum of 5 positions. Used that way you don't even see the charts!


However the Advanced mode (which shows the charts) is really just as easy to use. It lets you control when Calculations or Uploads get done. For example you can easily use it to re-Upload a prior set of ARC results.


It also gives you the ability to view what ARC is hearing from your speakers and how well it thinks it can correct them -- the charts. Those posts you've been reading will give you some idea of just how useful these charts can be in helping you discover if there are any problems in your speakers.


In addition, Advanced mode gives you access to the Targets window which lets you control how ARC does its setup. For most folks, there's only one adjustment to make in there and that's to tell ARC it is OK to do corrections above the default limit of 5KHz. Again, it's pretty straightforward, and there are folks here who can help.


Honestly, the hardest part of the whole thing is figuring out how to use Windows to screen capture those charts so you can post them here!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/15898059
> 
> 
> Bob.. were you still using "Hairspray" when you found this display bug?
> 
> 
> If so, the film proper uses one of the alternate Speaker Configurations of DTS-HD MA 7.1... this also affected many AVR's and processors..
> 
> 
> If that is the title, see if the New Line BR logo comes up and the LR RR bug goes away (the logo's are in the "Standard" 7.1.....)
> 
> 
> PS.. now that you are bitstreaming, can you tell me what the Bit Rate reads as on DTS-HD MA? Or does it say nothing...



Yes, "Hairspray" was the disc used for the results I just posted. I also had the display (and Center speaker) issues with "Nightmare Before Christmas" Blu-Ray and "Hellboy II" Blu-Ray.


Of course the Center speaker issue and active speaker output display issue (7.1 HDMI LPCM input down-mixed to 5.1 speakers in the D2v) should be presentation independent since the track has already been decoded to LPCM before the D2v sees it.


-------------------------------------------------


With the DTS-HD MA track sent as a bitstream to the D2v, the only info it is giving me is that the sampling rate is 48KHz. There's no overall bit rate or audio bit rate being displayed.


============================


OK, this is weird! While typing this post, the credits were playing for "Hairspray". All of a sudden, at around the (1:55:00 mark) the quality of the audio changed. When I went to check, the D2v's Select displays are now showing the LR/RR channels on input and the bogus CR speaker on output!


It went through nearly the entire movie and then this happens!


Now, I've just restarted the movie and it is STILL showing LR/RR input and the bogus CR speaker output. By the way, the New Line logo at the start of the movie, and the New Line High Definition logo prior to getting to the Top Menu, both show the same thing (and they showed no LR/RR and no bogus CR the first time through!).


Now I've got to play it again and see if Center is screwed up.


One obvious difference is the volume is about 5dB louder than the first time I played it through. This is very weird indeed!


==============================


And the answer is, yes, things seem screwed up in the audio at this point. The Center speaker doesn't sound volume balanced with the rest of the audio and it sounds like it may have lost its ARC correction!


I've no idea why it suddenly switched to doing it this way.


Deep sigh.


ETA: I'll have to work this some more when I'm more awake. Info sent to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15894690
> 
> 
> I find it interesting that you are seeing an immediate improvement in video with the D2v. So if you don't mind I'm going to go after some more details here so we can better nail down just what has happened.
> 
> 
> First are you currently using the "test" V2.02c firmware or one of the older "official" versions?
> 
> 
> Next, did you redo your video levels setup for the D2v? You had a D2 before, correct? How comfortable were you that your final setup for the D2 was as good as it could be before you swapped it out for the D2v? Is there anything new you did this time -- any new tools used for example -- to set up video for the D2v?
> 
> 
> Are you using primarily HDMI video input sources? Is it just the D2v that changed out or did you also upgrade sources and/or display at the same time?
> 
> --Bob



I am using V2.02


I did not redo video settings I just uploaded saved settings from D2, after all my displays did not change and both were professionally calibrated.


I m using HDMI from my Oppo 980 & Vudu. I am using component from my Tivo & Cable box. The only other thing that was changed besides the D2v, and this just dawned on me now, was an HDMI 1 X 2 switch which was no longer needed due to the dual HDMI outs on the D2v.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/15896056
> 
> 
> Bob (and others), I saw this post by you last month on the differences between the avm50v and the d2v:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=17883
> 
> 
> I was at my dealer today and wanted info on the d2v. My listening is probably 95%HT, 5% music. I've got Studio 100's for LCR, ADP-590 and Studio 10's for surrounds/rears. He pushed me to get the avm50v instead since it's a better deal, yada yada. He was not sure exactly of the differences so he called his guy at Anthem. He was on the phone with him and the guy told him the only differences were the Better DAC in the d2v, but everything else was identical. I am not sure if my ears are sophisticated enough to hear the better DAC over the avm50v, but my question is, are there other differences than what you posted last month (that maybe the anthem guy left out)?
> 
> 
> I am ok with either the d2v or the avm50v, but if I can save $2000 and not notice the difference I would do it. But if it's a noticeable difference even to newbies, maybe the d2v is worth it.
> 
> 
> He also loaned me a AVM30 (since he doesn't have the 50v or the d2v in stock) to try out instead of my Denon 3808 to see if I hear any improvement. Is the avm30 enough of a step up from the denon to get an idea if the avm50v or d2v will benefit me?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Shawn



Shawn,

As Bob mentioned I went from an AVM50 to the D2v. The main diff which I heard were:

1. Expansion of the soundfield

2. Increase in depth, more 3D if you will.

3. Increased detail in music and movies.


I had ARC on my AVM50 so diff are not attributable to that. I have the Studio 100s as well and they are quite capable of rising to the D2v abilities. My observations were validated by a friend who was familiar with my previous setup. He made the same comments, unsolicited of course







Is it worth the cost, only you can decide. I felt the affects of the upsampling and the resultant very flat freq. output from the D2v were worth it. I use my HT for music much more now since the D2v arrived. Either way you'll like what you hear from both units compared to your Denon. I came from a Denon to my AVM50 and was not disappointed.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15898426
> 
> 
> I am using V2.02
> 
> 
> I did not redo video settings I just uploaded saved settings from D2, after all my displays did not change and both were professionally calibrated.
> 
> 
> I m using HDMI from my Oppo 980 & Vudu. I am using component from my Tivo & Cable box. The only other thing that was changed besides the D2v, and this just dawned on me now, was an HDMI 1 X 2 switch which was no longer needed due to the dual HDMI outs on the D2v.



The HDMI switch could be an important factor in this. Many problems have been reported due to faulty switches -- some of them quite bizarre such as shifted color values. I suppose you could test that by temporarily re-inserting the switch in the signal path. But let me cover another thing first.


You say you didn't redo the video level settings in your display. Since it was professionally calibrated, it is not likely to have needed any changes for use with the D2v -- so good, that's the right thing for you to have done.


But did you not find you had to make some Brightness/Contrast changes in the Video Source Adjust > Picture menu for each source device? The original V2.02 firmware still has the YCbCr gray scale bug. The bug in that version causes HDMI YCbCr input to appear too dark -- you have to raise Brightness in Video Source Adjust to compensate, and then adjust Contrast to work well with the new Brightness setting.


If you were using RGB video input from any source then you would not have this problem and your prior D2 Video Source Adjust > Picture settings for that source would still be correct as is.


It could also be that the content you were playing was not the type that would reveal black crush (loss of detail in near blacks) if you didn't first correct for this YCbCr gray scale bug.


[NOTE: The "Test" V2.02c firmware almost completely fixes this bug, so when using V2.02c your prior Video Source Adjust > Picture settings from the D2 would once again be correct. The remaining part of the bug only shows up if you have Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space > Extended RGB checked for a given source device, and the failure in that case, if it happens at all, is that the YCbCr gray scale from that device is way too bright -- rather than the somewhat too dark issue just mentioned.]


With a professionally calibrated display it is likely that the Video Source Adjust > Picture settings that were "correct" for each source in the D2 would have been very close to the factory default values (e.g., 50 for both Brightness and Contrast). Is that what you had been using (and are now still using)?


I guess what I'm trying to get to here is whether some folks are *NOT* seeing this YCbCr gray scale problem with the V2.02 firmware.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15894313
> 
> 
> Many UPS's are true sine wave. Just check the specs, and APC's web site, for example.



actually, there are not many,esp in the lower price range(under $300).

APC's web site features three lines, depending on the power needs, but only one line has a pure sine wave output - one needs to look FOR IT, as the sine wave is _implied_(APC term), but not stated in the less expensive lines.

I have been very pleased with performance of my gear, is any of the happiness due to the line conditioner? I really do not know - could pull it offline and see it there is a difference - arghh!!









so - i still have a month or so prior to the fl summer boomers that blow up trees/homes/d2 units.

walt


----------



## lessm1

This is my first time on the forum and I hope that I am doing this correctly. I took the D2 V2 home for a test drive and heard an intermittent buzzing in all of the speaker tweeters when using the HDMI for audio and video. I am told that firmware upgrade v2.02c may take care of the problem. I loved the processor and would like to order it, but I wanted to make sure that this issue had been corrected.


Amps: Classe ca5200 and ca2100

DVD: Denon 3800BDCI

Speakers: B&W CDM 9


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lessm1* /forum/post/15902450
> 
> 
> This is my first time on the forum and I hope that I am doing this correctly. I took the D2 V2 home for a test drive and heard an intermittent buzzing in all of the speaker tweeters when using the HDMI for audio and video. I am told that firmware upgrade v2.02c may take care of the problem. I loved the processor and would like to order it, but I wanted to make sure that this issue had been corrected.
> 
> 
> Amps: Classe ca5200 and ca2100
> 
> DVD: Denon 3800BDCI
> 
> Speakers: B&W CDM 9



First of all, welcome to the forum, and to what we've been fondly calling "The Cool Kids Thread"!


Yes, we've had some reports here of a problem like this in some units shipped with the original firmware. Anthem tech support has a new firmware version in field testing now, V2.02c, that apparently fixes this problem for those folks.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Apparently Paradigm and Anthem have a new distributor now for the UK, Anthem AV Solutions. Their web site is only a stub at the moment, although it does feature a picture of the D2v. It also gives an email address for them:

http://www.anthemavs.co.uk/ 


I've also seen an article reporting from the Bristol show that was mentioned last week. It confirms the £8500 UK pricing for the D2v that was also mentioned last week:

http://whathifi.com/News/BRISTOL-SHO...-AV-processor/ 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Some days back we had a poster looking for info on programmable remote control configuration files for the D2v and AVM 50v.


I just remembered that Anthem actually has a page on their site with some configuration info for the Pronto and for the URC programmable remotes:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...ol/Remote.html 


I use a Harmony 880 remote myself, so I don't know how useful this info might be, but it is probably worth a look.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz

Hey Bob, do you have any new up-dates on V1.34 for us old D2 users


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/15903496
> 
> 
> Hey Bob, do you have any new up-dates on V1.34 for us old D2 users



Sorry, no. Last I heard from Nick was around 2 weeks ago when he said work on V1.34 was in progress. He also said work on the new HDMI code was in progress but he wasn't sure it would make it into V1.34.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15902767
> 
> 
> Some days back we had a poster looking for info on programmable remote control configuration files for the D2v and AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> I just remembered that Anthem actually has a page on their site with some configuration info for the Pronto and for the URC programmable remotes:
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...ol/Remote.html
> 
> 
> I use a Harmony 880 remote myself, so I don't know how useful this info might be, but it is probably worth a look.
> 
> --Bob




Ahhhh good things come to those that wait I see... that was me Bob, I appreciate you checking into this or at least stumbling upon it and remembering my post.


Thank you... If I end up with the D2v, this will certainly come in handy.


Patrick


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snweiler* /forum/post/15893726
> 
> 
> AbMagFab,
> 
> 
> Both the P2 and the P5 have a trigger input and a trigger output so you can chain them together. Just run one 1/8 mono cable from the D2v trigger output to the P2 (or P5) trigger input and then a second from the P2 output to the P5 input. Bobs comment about using trigger 3 probably still applies.
> 
> 
> Steve



Thanks! Works perfectly. And the P2/P5 slowly ramp up even with trigger inputs, so no big spike of electricity usage. And it's nice to have them shut off right away (instead of timing out as before).


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15903704
> 
> 
> Sorry, no. Last I heard from Nick was around 2 weeks ago when he said work on V1.34 was in progress. He also said work on the new HDMI code was in progress but he wasn't sure it would make it into V1.34.
> 
> --Bob



Thanx for your reply Bob, I remember reading that post, how time slows down when you wait for something.

I don't want to bring bad news, but i heard today the D2.V upgrade board, may not be out until MAY.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/15905310
> 
> 
> I don't want to bring bad news, but i heard today the D2.V upgrade board, may not be out until MAY.



If it's not breaking a confidence, can you state who told you that? I.e., you called Anthem, or you heard it from your dealer, or whatever?


The hardware needed to upgrade a D2 to a D2v is available now: It's the video board, DSP board, and back panel manufactured for the D2v (plus cables, etc.). I don't believe there is anything new they have to manufacture that would be specific to just the upgrade.


They just have to get the procedures (ordering, and factory process including testing) and pricing together -- as well as making enough of the new boards fast enough to get ahead of the order flow for new D2v units.

--Bob


----------



## mikepebble

Hi! Just an observation with the installed ver 2.01.

Since installing it on the weekend ,I have started to notice that it is taking more vol to achieve the same level as was heard with arc ver 1.25.I wondered if any one else is experiencing this situation.?

What is strange is that sound from the cd however, is quite robust.We used to have a volume setting of -16 to -18 for all movies.Now -10 to -11 is needed to have the same level-- but with the cd setting -19 to-21 is plenty.

I finally took a look into the speaker calibration section werre I set the Noise level to +2.5(equalled 75db) and set the subs to 73db.

The settings now are

Noise level +2.5

Fr left +1

centre 0

Fr r +1.5

Sur r -1

Rear r +1.5

rear l +1.5

Sur l -1.5

Sub -5


What interesting with this is that my surrounds on the whole do not seem to have much punch and little bass but arc ver 2.01 wants their vol along with the sub to be turned down.

If you make any adjustments in these calculations it is my understanding that this will screw up the arc settings--right?

So why would the volume be lower with dvd's and so strong with cd player(vol. appeared the same in arc ver.1.25 for all sources)?Why would arc also be turning down the surrounds when the are the weak spot?

Anyone else has this happening?

Don't get me wrong this arc is a big improvement ,but just trying to understand.


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15905463
> 
> 
> If it's not breaking a confidence, can you state who told you that? I.e., you called Anthem, or you heard it from your dealer, or whatever?
> 
> 
> The hardware needed to upgrade a D2 to a D2v is available now: It's the video board, DSP board, and back panel manufactured for the D2v (plus cables, etc.). I don't believe there is anything new they have to manufacture that would be specific to just the upgrade.
> 
> 
> They just have to get the procedures (ordering, and factory process including testing) and pricing together -- as well as making enough of the new boards fast enough to get ahead of the order flow for new D2v units.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, My freind who has a D2, talked to OUR dealer and mentioned that the D2 -- D2.V upgrade would not be out until possibly MAY, or late April. I didn't know i could buy the new version right now..I may have to fire my info freind.


----------



## spiderv6

One step forward, one step back.....


So I flashed to V2.02c and I solved my no-audio issue on my flat panel - hooray!!


Now I've 'lost' HDMI1 output completely - everything is fine on HDMI2 but 1 is just dead. I can't find anywhere that switches it back on - has the upgrade knocked a setting somewhere?


They are both always active I thought.......


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15906337
> 
> 
> One step forward, one step back.....
> 
> 
> So I flashed to V2.02c and I solved my no-audio issue on my flat panel - hooray!!
> 
> 
> Now I've 'lost' HDMI1 output completely - everything is fine on HDMI2 but 1 is just dead. I can't find anywhere that switches it back on - has the upgrade knocked a setting somewhere?
> 
> 
> They are both always active I thought.......



They are both always active. Double check your HDMI cable (both ends).


When you installed V2.02c, did you follow the instruction to make sure you have no powered HDMI connections (sources or displays) during the install? Keep in mind that many HDMI devices keep their HDMI sockets powered even when the device is turned off. Unplug devices from wall power to be sure.


If you have any doubt, just re-install V2.02c on top of itself following all the instructions.


See if you can bring up the Setup menu on the HDMI 1 output. Using the Front Panel display if necessary, double check your Video Output configuration is still what you expected it to be.


If you don't spot an easy fix such as this, give Anthem tech support a call in the morning.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/15906326
> 
> 
> Bob, My freind who has a D2, talked to OUR dealer and mentioned that the D2 -- D2.V upgrade would not be out until possibly MAY, or late April. I didn't know i could buy the new version right now..I may have to fire my info freind.



Introduce your info friend to this thread. Nothing but the best info here!










--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15906409
> 
> 
> They are both always active. Double check your HDMI cable (both ends).
> 
> 
> When you installed V2.02c, did you follow the instruction to make sure you have no powered HDMI connections (sources or displays) during the install? Keep in mind that many HDMI devices keep their HDMI sockets powered even when the device is turned off. Unplug devices from wall power to be sure.
> 
> 
> If you have any doubt, just re-install V2.02c on top of itself following all the instructions.
> 
> 
> See if you can bring up the Setup menu on the HDMI 1 output. Using the Front Panel display if necessary, double check your Video Output configuration is still what you expected it to be.
> 
> 
> If you don't spot an easy fix such as this, give Anthem tech support a call in the morning.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


It can't be the cables as swapping them over makes everything work - it's the output.


Now, did I definitely have everything unplugged....I think so.....I mean, do you have any idea how many cables, remotes, boxes, manuals I have surrounding me right now?










Flashing again (with all HDMIs unplugged)......


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikepebble* /forum/post/15905725
> 
> 
> Hi! Just an observation with the installed ver 2.01.
> 
> Since installing it on the weekend ,I have started to notice that it is taking more vol to achieve the same level as was heard with arc ver 1.25.I wondered if any one else is experiencing this situation.?
> 
> What is strange is that sound from the cd however, is quite robust.We used to have a volume setting of -16 to -18 for all movies.Now -10 to -11 is needed to have the same level-- but with the cd setting -19 to-21 is plenty.
> 
> I finally took a look into the speaker calibration section werre I set the Noise level to +2.5(equalled 75db) and set the subs to 73db.
> 
> The settings now are
> 
> Noise level +2.5
> 
> Fr left +1
> 
> centre 0
> 
> Fr r +1.5
> 
> Sur r -1
> 
> Rear r +1.5
> 
> rear l +1.5
> 
> Sur l -1.5
> 
> Sub -5
> 
> 
> What interesting with this is that my surrounds on the whole do not seem to have much punch and little bass but arc ver 2.01 wants their vol along with the sub to be turned down.
> 
> If you make any adjustments in these calculations it is my understanding that this will screw up the arc settings--right?
> 
> So why would the volume be lower with dvd's and so strong with cd player(vol. appeared the same in arc ver.1.25 for all sources)?Why would arc also be turning down the surrounds when the are the weak spot?
> 
> Anyone else has this happening?
> 
> Don't get me wrong this arc is a big improvement ,but just trying to understand.



It is not uncommon for different styles of audio to have different volume levels. This is just the way the audio is mixed. Some CD players also have a volume control on their output. See how yours is set.


Your speaker volume trims all make sense except the -5dB for your sub output indicates that the volume you set on your 2 subs is still a little high. Nothing to worry about, but before you do another measurement try lowering both subs another couple dB.


Do not change the speaker volume trims ARC has uploaded. If you want to make temporary changes in volume for different speakers you can do that with the remote (see Section 4.6 of the Manual), but I recommend you first get used to what ARC has set up. The surround mix in most movies is not supposed to be all that aggressive, so the output ARC has set for your surrounds is most likely correct.


What does your SPL meter show you if you try the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration now for the various speakers? Measure at ARC mic position #1 with the meter pointing straight up, slow response, "C" weighting.


In terms of comparison to your ARC V1.2.5 setup, check the charts for that result vs. what ARC V2.0.1 gave you. Look for what I've been calling the "basic volume level" ARC is targeting in each solution. This is the flat part of the Target curves to the right of the Room Gain hump near the crossovers. I suspect you will find that the ARC V1.2.5 solution targeted a higher basic volume level.


The basic volume level in an ARC solution, and the Setup calibration tones in a manual speaker setup, correspond to what a reference level audio input signal would produce as speaker output when the main volume control on the Anthem is set to -10dB.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15906513
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> 
> It can't be the cables as swapping them over makes everything work - it's the output.
> 
> 
> Now, did I definitely have everything unplugged....I think so.....I mean, do you have any idea how many cables, remotes, boxes, manuals I have surrounding me right now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flashing again (with all HDMIs unplugged)......



I hope this solves things for you. If not, get a flashlight and take a careful look at that HDMI 1 socket for signs of pin damage. HDMI plugs and sockets are delicate, which is why I suggest pulling wall power from devices rather than pulling the HDMI plugs. It's also why I suggest people consider short, "port saver" cables that you can leave plugged into the Anthem at all times -- with the device cable attaching to the other end.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

re-flashed - no deal ;-(


Re portsavers....I just got 4 of those today (the velocity ones discussed here) and they just introduced hand-shaking issues all over the place so I have put them back in the box..........


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15906662
> 
> 
> re-flashed - no deal ;-(
> 
> 
> Re portsavers....I just got 4 of those today (the velocity ones discussed here) and they just introduced hand-shaking issues all over the place so I have put them back in the box..........



There's really nothing for it but to call Anthem in the morning.


If you still feel like poking at it tonight, try temporarily changing your Video Output configuration to 480p (not 480i). That's the "simplest" resolution for HDMI to handle -- I presume both of your displays will take that just fine.


Also try both settings of Video Output > your configuration > Sync.


Neither of these changes really should make a difference since the video to that display is working fine from HDMI 2, but if either one DOES work that will mean something.


Also try Reloading Factory Defaults and then manually entering just the Video Output settings to see if you can get the display live that way. If you can, that means something is corrupted in your saved settings. The corrupted value might actually be in the Video Source Adjust menu (which is also in the saved settings) since the video processor has two halves that process the two video outputs separately. Reloading Factory Defaults resets all that.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

and i can no longer bring up the video menu on my displays. it says on the front panel of the d2v that its active....but it's not.


trying the factory defaults option in case of corruption as you suggest.......


....which made no difference.


Changed to component and now I get the video menu.......shouldn't that be active over HDMI??


EDIT; it is active now on the PJ (component) *and* on the second display on HDMI2. If I swap the PJ back to HDMI then I get no menu on either display. I dont see logic in this...........


----------



## mikepebble

Thanks for that Bob! It is appreciated.I take the time to get used to what arc has set and later on I'll test with the meter. Thanks for the info and explanation!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15906820
> 
> 
> and i can no longer bring up the video menu on my displays. it says on the front panel of the d2v that its active....but it's not.
> 
> 
> trying the factory defaults option in case of corruption as you suggest.......
> 
> 
> ....which made no difference.
> 
> 
> Changed to component and now I get the video menu.......shouldn't that be active over HDMI??
> 
> 
> EDIT; it is active now on the PJ (component) *and* on the second display on HDMI2. If I swap the PJ back to HDMI then I get no menu on either display. I dont see logic in this...........



No it sounds screwed up. It's not supposed to be possible to get the Video Source Adjust menu on the HDMI 2 output -- regardless of whatever else you are doing.


When you get an answer from Anthem tech support, please do post it here!

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

Thanks for your input Bob. Just checked that scenario again - definitely no signal out of HDMI1. While the preferred output is set to HDMI I get no VSA menu. When I change that to component, I do then see it over my working HDMI2 output.


Looks like V2.02c has screwed me up........


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15907036
> 
> 
> Thanks for your input Bob. Just checked that scenario again - definitely no signal out of HDMI1. While the preferred output is set to HDMI I get no VSA menu. When I change that to component, I do then see it over my working HDMI2 output.
> 
> 
> Looks like V2.02c has screwed me up........



You can roll back to V2.02 of course, but I suggest you just give Anthem a chance to work this through with you in the morning.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Playing "Kung Fu Panda" Blu-Ray tonight using my mystery player. The audio track is 5.1 channel TrueHD, sent as HDMI bitstream for decoding in the D2v ("test" V2.02c firmware).


It sounds great, but I noticed that the Video Source Adjust > Info panel identified the Audio Source as 8-channel.


You may recall that during my first play through of "Hairspray" Blu-Ray last night -- when the 7.1 channel DTS-HD MA bitstream input to the D2v resulted in no LR/RR channels showing in the Select button's channel input display -- the Info panel also showed 8-channel input.


If it turns out the 8-channel indication in the Info panel is in error, then that probably means the D2v really was mistakenly decoding the 7.1 DTS-HD MA track last night as only 5.1 on that first play through. This would be consistent with my earlier results that 5.1 input sounds great on my 5.1 speaker system, but 7.1 input does not (which would, of course, be a bug).


This additional info has been passed on to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I think I'm seeing more saturated colors in my D2v video compared to what I'm used to with the D2.


My calibration charts aren't showing anything different, so I'm not exactly sure what's going on here.


Anyone else coming from a D2 or AVM 50 seeing anything like this? It looks great by the way.

--Bob


----------



## Jongoldman

My TIVO Series 3 is connected to my D2 via component that then goes to my 65" Panasonic Plasma.


For quite some time I've noticing horizontal lines, very faint in solid color areas, moving from the bottom to top. In the past when I've tried HDMI the handshake was terrible from the TIVO to the D2. I think I'm running 1.21. No one in my family notices it but me.


Anyone have any thoughts? Output from my Panasonic Blu-Ray player is fine (no lines).


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/15905310
> 
> 
> Thanx for your reply Bob, I remember reading that post, how time slows down when you wait for something.
> 
> I don't want to bring bad news, but i heard today the D2.V upgrade board, may not be out until MAY.



Yes, I also officially got that too. We'll have to wait I guess.

And BTW, what could they possibly be adding to the actual 1.33 firmware if not HDMI handling improvements? I mean, this is the most acute problem, isn't it?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15907695
> 
> 
> I think I'm seeing more saturated colors in my D2v video compared to what I'm used to with the D2.
> 
> 
> My calibration charts aren't showing anything different, so I'm not exactly sure what's going on here.
> 
> 
> Anyone else coming from a D2 or AVM 50 seeing anything like this? It looks great by the way.
> 
> --Bob



I just had my calibrator tweak my pj with my D2v. Colours to match colour gamut was done as was grayscale. Can't say much has changed but will look closer. Terminator 2 on HD DVD certainly looked better than I remember but then that is more likely a function of my memory









John


----------



## goatwuss

Hi Guys,


I've got a quick usability question.


Before running ARC, I went in to the settings with an SPL meter and set the volumes of each speaker to match on the SPL meter.


Does ARC take this into account? Or do I need to go in there, zero out all the levels on the speakers, and then re-run ARC?


Thanks!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/15908905
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> I've got a quick usability question.
> 
> 
> Before running ARC, I went in to the settings with an SPL meter and set the volumes of each speaker to match on the SPL meter.
> 
> 
> Does ARC take this into account? Or do I need to go in there, zero out all the levels on the speakers, and then re-run ARC?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Set the test tone level to 75 db using spl meter and then set sub to 75 db, only here adjust to the proper level by using the vol on the sub. All other levels can be zeroed out. So now you have sound level in the Anthem set to output 75db for the test tone. The front left speaker will be set to the same level as the test tone. Arc will do the rest.

John


----------



## goatwuss

Hi John,


Thanks. I guess what I'm asking, is: do I need to go in and zero out those settings and re-run ARC, or will ARC take my existing settings into account?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/15909034
> 
> 
> Hi John,
> 
> 
> Thanks. I guess what I'm asking, is: do I need to go in and zero out those settings and re-run ARC, or will ARC take my existing settings into account?



I would zero them out and let ARC start fresh. This has been suggested by Bob on many occasions.

John


----------



## lessm1

I took the D2 v home last night for my second test drive and loaded the new 2.02c firmware. The buzzing in the tweeters was now gone, the audio did not cut out and the gray scale bug was also corrected.


One question though. I was told that when using the HDMI input from a 1080p/24 blu-ray source that the video was a pass through. However, the picture is noticeably improved. Does anyone know why… ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jongoldman* /forum/post/15908214
> 
> 
> My TIVO Series 3 is connected to my D2 via component that then goes to my 65" Panasonic Plasma.
> 
> 
> For quite some time I've noticing horizontal lines, very faint in solid color areas, moving from the bottom to top. In the past when I've tried HDMI the handshake was terrible from the TIVO to the D2. I think I'm running 1.21. No one in my family notices it but me.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts? Output from my Panasonic Blu-Ray player is fine (no lines).



Sure. Horizontal interference lines that move slowly and steadily from bottom to top are a classic symptom of power line interference.


For technical reasons, the frame update rate for video is not actually 60 frames per second. It is precisely 59.94 frames per second. Thus if you have any interference from 60Hz wall power that interference will crawl slowly up the screen.


--------------------------------------------


The most common source of power line interference is a "ground loop". A ground loop is interference garbage that is present on the wire shields of the wires connecting your devices. It can hop from device to device along the shields of the various wires until it finds a path back to ground -- usually through the power plug of some device.


The single most common source of such garbage is the feed wire for a cable or satellite TV service. Temporarily disconnect the feed wire between the wall and your receiver. If the problem goes away then the cable/satellite feed is not properly grounded where it enters your house or the coax connections between there and your receiver are corroded or otherwise don't have good contact with that ground.


You can fix that by properly grounding the service before it enters the walls of your house. Alternatively you can put a cheap gizmo called a "ground blocker" in-line between the wall feed and the input of your cable set top box (the Tivo in your case). The ground blocker consists of a no-gain transformer that has no direct wire contact from one side to the other -- so garbage coming in on the coax shield can't make it past the ground blocker. These gizmos weaken the signal a bit, so you might lose some weak channels.


It is often the case that if you have a ground loop you will also hear it as 60Hz hum on your subwoofer. Hum on your sub and interference crawl on your TV would pretty much guarantee you have a ground loop.


Less common these days is the ground loop that comes from having different "ground levels" on the different wall power feeds serving your devices. Sometimes this can be fixed by reversing two prong plugs in the outlets. You have to logically go through the various combinations of plug reversals to try this. Note that any two devices in your system could be contributing to the ground loop -- even ones that are turned off when you are seeing the interference lines on your TV. It's just that one of the devices you ARE using is sensitive to the ground loop when it exists among the other devices that are all interconnected. You can isolate devices by pulling the interconnect wires to see if they are participating in the ground loop.


Even less common is that you have a broken device which is emitting power supply garbage on its chassis ground.


If you have poor quality cables, or cables with broken cable shields, you can also get power supply interference from cables running next to power supply cords.


Since you are only seeing this from the Tivo feed it is likely it is the Tivo itself that is having problems with the ground loop, and that the source of the problem is your cable TV feed line. Try reversing the power plug of the Tivo. Also move the cables to/from the Tivo to see if the interference is sensitive to how close those cables are to nearby power cords.


See the Hum FAQ sticky thread in the the Audio Theory forum here for more suggestions.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15908265
> 
> 
> Yes, I also officially got that too. We'll have to wait I guess.
> 
> And BTW, what could they possibly be adding to the actual 1.33 firmware if not HDMI handling improvements? I mean, this is the most acute problem, isn't it?



There are a number of long standing bug fixes that got put off while they were working on the D2v.


The HDMI stuff is the biggest change, so if they are still having problems getting that new code to work (it was badly broken when tested last summer) they will likely release V1.34 and then do another release to get the HDMI changes out.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

Anyone care to comment, I would love to hear about your experiences with the D2 or D2v with 2 channel audio, I personally would rather just get an all in 1 unit and be done with it, then have to cobble together a bunch of stuff with a HT bypass and all that, and then have to deal with outboard bass management for my 4 subs for 2 channel audio. I love my subs...










Any comparisons to 2 channel preamps would be great...


I'm chompin at the bit here guys.... hehheheh







Ready to pull the trigger...


Patrick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/15909034
> 
> 
> Hi John,
> 
> 
> Thanks. I guess what I'm asking, is: do I need to go in and zero out those settings and re-run ARC, or will ARC take my existing settings into account?



ARC is supposed to ignore everything in there except for the Test Level line (Noise Level in the older D2/AVM50 firmware). The Test Level line is used to set the volume of ARC's test sweep tones. If ARC produced different results because some of those speaker trim lines were non-zero, that would be a bug. I haven't tested for a bug like that in the new, V2.0.1 ARC.


The ARC Upload will load all the correct speaker volume trims into that menu replacing whatever was in there before.


When setting Test Level and your sub volume prior to running ARC, I recommend you zero out all the speaker volume trim lines first for two reasons: (1) The output of the Test Level line itself depends on the current setting of the Left Front speaker line so you want that set to zero first, and (2) You want the subwoofer line to be zero before you adjust the volume knob built into your sub. So zeroing out all those lines first is just an easier instruction.


ETA: Done this way, all those speaker volume trim lines are zeroed before you run your ARC Measurements, so even if there is a bug you can't be bit by it. But again, you are not supposed to have to zero those out before running ARC Measurements.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lessm1* /forum/post/15909237
> 
> 
> I took the D2 v home last night for my second test drive and loaded the new 2.02c firmware. The buzzing in the tweeters was now gone, the audio did not cut out and the gray scale bug was also corrected.
> 
> 
> One question though. I was told that when using the HDMI input from a 1080p/24 blu-ray source that the video was a pass through. However, the picture is noticeably improved. Does anyone know why ?



HDMI video is NEVER "pass through" in the D2/AVM50/D2v/AVM50v even when the input resolution and frame rate happens to match the output resolution and frame rate. The VXP video processor is always active for HDMI video. (It IS possible to set up Component video in and out to be "pass through" for the Zone 2 output. It is also possible to turn off the scaling portion of the video processing, although there is no value to doing that for high quality video input content.)


Most likely what you were seeing is proper processing in the video path -- i.e., the bug fixes such as the gray scale bug fix found in the "test" V2.02c firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15910081
> 
> 
> Anyone care to comment, I would love to hear about your experiences with the D2 or D2v with 2 channel audio, I personally would rather just get an all in 1 unit and be done with it, then have to cobble together a bunch of stuff with a HT bypass and all that, and then have to deal with outboard bass management for my 4 subs for 2 channel audio. I love my subs...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any comparisons to 2 channel preamps would be great...
> 
> 
> I'm chompin at the bit here guys.... hehheheh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to pull the trigger...
> 
> 
> Patrick



There were a number of reviews of 2 channel audio here back when ARC V1.2.5 came out.


I believe the consensus now is that you should set up a separate Music configuration in ARC -- different folks have different preferences for 2.0, 2.1, or all speakers except Center (used with "Stereo" Audio mode) -- and run your 2 channel analog audio sources as "ANALOG-DSP" in the Anthem. This means they are digitized, processed by ARC, and re-converted back to analog for output.


The gains provided by ARC vastly outweigh any minor degradation due to the digitizing. This is particularly true for the D2 and D2v.


One trick is to go into Setup > ADC & Audio Output and raise the digitizing sampling rate for 2-channel analog audio input higher than the default sampling rate of 44.1KHz. Doing this, along with proper ARC setup for a Music configuration, resulted in very positive reviews of 2-channel audio for the D2.


The Anthems also offer an Analog-Direct mode which doesn't digitize the audio. That means there is no processing of that audio -- you only get main volume control. Speaker volume trim and distance timing adjustments would need to be made in the source device. And you also get no ARC processing on such audio.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

Thanks Bob, I guess I wasn't very clear on what I was after, and it got lost in my typing.


I was looking for comparisons in SQ with the DAC's in the D2v compared to other dedicated 2 channel preamps. I would have no problem keeping the benefits of leaving ARC engaged, I'm not a true 2 channel purist here, just looking for really good SQ as part of my next step up.


Patrick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15910422
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I guess I wasn't very clear on what I was after, and it got lost in my typing.
> 
> 
> I was looking for comparisons in SQ with the DAC's in the D2v compared to other dedicated 2 channel preamps. I would have no problem keeping the benefits of leaving ARC engaged, I'm not a true 2 channel purist here, just looking for really good SQ as part of my next step up.
> 
> 
> Patrick



Dig back around the point that ARC V1.2.5 came out, particularly after Kal's review of ARC was published, and I think you'll find what you are looking for. As I said, the consensus on 2-channel sound quality, particularly when processed through ARC, was quite positive.


You can spot that point by scanning through the ARC related links collected in the first post of this thread.


--------------------------------------------


If anyone has specific links saved, or would care to repeat any of that info, then please do so.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765

Last night I downloaded the latest Arc software. I set all levels first and saved user settings before remeasuring. After measuring I turned on the unit and no sound. Some how the upload process wiped out most of my settings. All triggers were reset to disabled and all menu names for my sources went back to the default names. After re-entering all settings,triggers etc. it worked fine and I mean fine. The sound is an amazing change especially in the base. I have a very large open area (over 10k cubic feet) and 2 SVS PB12/2 subs and they have never been this sharp and punchy(not a perfect description) but you can feel it like never before. This is the first time the subs have ever been able to go to 25hz in my room.

The midrange and higher and so open it sounds like a different system completely. I have about 30 bass traps in the area so that does help a little, but they were there before.

Also I tried the new test software with my previous measurements and the results were nothing like the remeasured sound. I am using a D2 w/1.33. I was just curious if anyone else had their settings altered after uploading. I am a very happy camper right now.

P.S. Always write your settings down in case


dmorse


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/15910903
> 
> 
> Last night I downloaded the latest Arc software. I set all levels first and saved user settings before remeasuring. After measuring I turned on the unit and no sound. Some how the upload process wiped out most of my settings. All triggers were reset to disabled and all menu names for my sources went back to the default names. After re-entering all settings,triggers etc. it worked fine and I mean fine. The sound is an amazing change especially in the base. I have a very large open area (over 10k cubic feet) and 2 SVS PB12/2 subs and they have never been this sharp and punchy(not a perfect description) but you can feel it like never before. This is the first time the subs have ever been able to go to 25hz in my room.
> 
> The midrange and higher and so open it sounds like a different system completely. I have about 30 bass traps in the area so that does help a little, but they were there before.
> 
> Also I tried the new test software with my previous measurements and the results were nothing like the remeasured sound. I am using a D2 w/1.33. I was just curious if anyone else had their settings altered after uploading. I am a very happy camper right now.
> 
> P.S. Always write your settings down in case
> 
> 
> dmorse



A couple questions. First, did you mean you used the "official" ARC V2.0.1 from the public download page, or the "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 from the password protected download page?


Second, did you do the automatic ARC setup where ARC does Measurement, Calculation and Upload all in one go, or did you run ARC in Advanced mode where the charts get displayed and you get to tell it when to Calculate and when to Upload?


We've had several reports in the past that an ARC Upload can cause the Setup menu settings to revert to Factory Defaults. If you have a good set of Saved User Settings it is easy to recover from that: Power cycle your Anthem using the back panel power switch to get a fresh start, then Reload Saved User Settings, then open your saved ARC results file in Advanced mode and redo the Upload (no need to re-Measure or redo the Calculation). So far we have no reports of the Upload screwing up the Setup menu settings more than once.


And so far the reports of screw ups have been from folks using the simple, automatic, ARC method of operation -- never from folks using ARC in Advanced mode.


So please do confirm which ARC and which method of running ARC you were using. You should also email this info to Anthem tech support. This really is a bug they need to squash.


--------------------------------------


"Test" ARC V2.0.1.1 has even more bass punch than "official" ARC V2.0.1, so I'll be interested to hear which one you were actually using.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765

Hi Bob. I used the test version from the password protected page. I also used the advanced mode as I always do. I just listed to track seven of the sacd version of Brothers In Arms and I thought the plasma was going to shake off the wall. Right now listening to scenes from WOTW and I am about 30 feet from the speakers in my den and it is sounding excellent. When I uploaded the last time it did not change as many settings but it set all of my video 1,2,3,4 settings to to same as 1. I was using 1 for 1080p/60 and 4 for 1080p/24 for the bluray. Sound wise I think the difference between the 2 recent arc is more of an improvement then there was between Arc and no ARC.


Dmorse


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15906662
> 
> 
> re-flashed - no deal ;-(
> 
> 
> Re portsavers....I just got 4 of those today (the velocity ones discussed here) and they just introduced hand-shaking issues all over the place so I have put them back in the box..........



I have the monoprice ones on everything I own (4 on the D2v, and about 10-15 on my other units), and not a single problem anywhere.


You might have problems with your main cables, as everything seems to come back to that?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jongoldman* /forum/post/15908214
> 
> 
> My TIVO Series 3 is connected to my D2 via component that then goes to my 65" Panasonic Plasma.
> 
> 
> For quite some time I've noticing horizontal lines, very faint in solid color areas, moving from the bottom to top. In the past when I've tried HDMI the handshake was terrible from the TIVO to the D2. I think I'm running 1.21. No one in my family notices it but me.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts? Output from my Panasonic Blu-Ray player is fine (no lines).



I have a Tivo S3 via HDMI, and it's beautiful. The handshake on the D2v takes about 3-5 seconds, which is just life for "Native" over HDMI for any device, given all the HDCP overhead. And it's fine once you get used to it.


I'd suggest going back to HDMI.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15906662
> 
> 
> re-flashed - no deal ;-(
> 
> 
> Re portsavers....I just got 4 of those today (the velocity ones discussed here) and they just introduced hand-shaking issues all over the place so I have put them back in the box..........



I also am using the same port savers on my D2 and have never had a problem with them.


Dmorse


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15910081
> 
> 
> I'm chompin at the bit here guys.... hehheheh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to pull the trigger...
> 
> 
> Patrick



Do it! You'll be happy, the D2v is just amazing. Every day I play with it I'm more impressed.


I need to get my acoustic situation figured out though... I added corner traps, which eliminated my 100hz null, but now I have a weird 200hz null, and I have no idea how that magically appeared?


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15911464
> 
> 
> I have the monoprice ones on everything I own (4 on the D2v, and about 10-15 on my other units), and not a single problem anywhere.
> 
> 
> You might have problems with your main cables, as everything seems to come back to that?



Well I was collecting issues last night so I took them out of the equation to try and simplify things. My PJ was definitely not happy with it.


I'll probably circle back with it once I have my more serious issues resolved.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/15911424
> 
> 
> Hi Bob. I used the test version from the password protected page. I also used the advanced mode as I always do. I just listed to track seven of the sacd version of Brothers In Arms and I thought the plasma was going to shake off the wall. Right now listening to scenes from WOTW and I am about 30 feet from the speakers in my den and it is sounding excellent. When I uploaded the last time it did not change as many settings but it set all of my video 1,2,3,4 settings to to same as 1. I was using 1 for 1080p/60 and 4 for 1080p/24 for the bluray. Sound wise I think the difference between the 2 recent arc is more of an improvement then there was between Arc and no ARC.
> 
> 
> Dmorse



OK then your reaction to "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 is typical of other reports we've had here -- including from me. The bass improvement was so unexpected that I even asked Nick at Anthem to have the team double check the levels are really correct before this version becomes "official".


----------------------------------------


Now, the fact that you had this Setup menu problem using ARC Advanced mode in the "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 is really disturbing. Please do email the details to Anthem tech support.


Up to know I've felt comfortable telling people that if they just use ARC Advanced mode (which is really just as easy to use as the automatic mode) they can avoid this problem. But now I've got to put it this way:

******************************************************


WARNING!


There is a bug that can cause an ARC Upload to mess up the settings in your Setup menu. It is a rare event, but it does happen. To protect yourself, make sure you have a current set of Saved User or Installer Settings prior to doing your ARC Measurements.


After you do your ARC Upload, check through your Setup menu to see that things look correct, and then play some stuff to check for normal behavior. If things are correct, then Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the changes ARC has Uploaded to your Setup menu.


But if the Setup menu is screwed up after the Upload, do the following: (1) Power cycle your Anthem using the back panel switch to insure everything is in a fresh state; (2) Reload Saved User (or Installer) Settings to recover your Setup menu settings; (3) open your saved file of ARC results in Advanced mode; and (4) do a new Upload of those results.


Then re-check your Setup menu again just as you did after the first Upload.


So far, this method of recovery has worked for everyone -- i.e., the screw up only happens once if at all.


***************************************************


ETA: Note that if the Setup menu gets screwed up this way, you may lose video. You can still use the Front Panel display to navigate through the Setup menu and do the Reload of Saved User Settings. If you are not already familiar with the Setup menu the limited view shown on the Front Panel can be a bit confusing. Just use the pictures of the various Setup menu pages found in the Manual to help find your way around.


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15911542
> 
> 
> Do it! You'll be happy, the D2v is just amazing. Every day I play with it I'm more impressed.
> 
> 
> I need to get my acoustic situation figured out though... I added corner traps, which eliminated my 100hz null, but now I have a weird 200hz null, and I have no idea how that magically appeared?



Think about your room configuration. Back before ARC when I was doing my manual setups I had a 50Hz null that mysteriously came and went. It was driving me nuts.


Turns out it was due to a closet door being open.


ETA: And of course if you moved the speakers when adding the traps, you might not have replaced the speakers precisely at their former locations.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15911580
> 
> 
> OK then your reaction to "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 is typical of other reports we've had here -- including from me. The bass improvement was so unexpected that I even asked Nick at Anthem to have the team double check the levels are really correct before this version becomes "official".
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now, the fact that you had this Setup menu problem using ARC Advanced mode in the "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 is really disturbing. Please do email the details to Anthem tech support.
> 
> 
> Up to know I've felt comfortable telling people that if they just use ARC Advanced mode (which is really just as easy to use as the automatic mode) they can avoid this problem. But now I've got to put it this way:
> 
> ******************************************************
> 
> 
> WARNING!
> 
> 
> There is a bug that can cause an ARC Upload to mess up the settings in your Setup menu. It is a rare event, but it does happen. To protect yourself, make sure you have a current set of Saved User or Installer Settings prior to doing your ARC Measurements.
> 
> 
> After you do your ARC Upload, check through your Setup menu to see that things look correct, and then play some stuff to check for normal behavior. If things are correct, then Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the changes ARC has Uploaded to your Setup menu.
> 
> 
> But if the Setup menu is screwed up after the Upload, do the following: (1) Power cycle your Anthem using the back panel switch to insure everything is in a fresh state; (2) Reload Saved User (or Installer) Settings to recover your Setup menu settings; (3) open your saved file of ARC results in Advanced mode; and (4) do a new Upload of those results.
> 
> 
> Then re-check your Setup menu again just as you did after the first Upload.
> 
> 
> So far, this method of recovery has worked for everyone -- i.e., the screw up only happens once if at all.
> 
> 
> ***************************************************
> 
> 
> ETA: Note that if the Setup menu gets screwed up this way, you may lose video. You can still use the Front Panel display to navigate through the Setup menu and do the Reload of Saved User Settings. If you are not already familiar with the Setup menu the limited view shown on the Front Panel can be a bit confusing. Just use the pictures of the various Setup menu pages found in the Manual to help find your way around.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I just double checked for you on the version number. I am now using version 2.0.1.1 (beta). I will email to nick about the setup changes but the bass is amazing.


dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/15911692
> 
> 
> Bob, I just double checked for you on the version number. I am now using version 2.0.1.1 (beta). I will email to nick about the setup changes but the bass is amazing.
> 
> 
> dick



I agree on the bass. Of course it's been a while now since I last used the "official" ARC V2.0.1, so I don't really recall it well enough. But what I'm hearing now from "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 sounds great.


I think my early concern was likely due to this other bug I'm fighting in the "test" V2.02c firmware where 7.1 channel input doesn't seem to work well when down-mixed in the D2v for my 5.1 speaker setup. One consequence of this is that volume seems to be boosted by about 5dB overall -- except, apparently, for the center speaker. Which makes bass sound boomy.


I switched to "test" V2.02c firmware and "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 on the same day.


But when playing 5.1 or 2.0 content the bass sounds really REALLY good. There is extra extension into the subsonics that was entirely unexpected given what I thought had changed in V2.0.1.1.

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/15910903
> 
> 
> Last night I downloaded the latest Arc software. I set all levels first and saved user settings before remeasuring. After measuring I turned on the unit and no sound. Some how the upload process wiped out most of my settings. All triggers were reset to disabled and all menu names for my sources went back to the default names. After re-entering all settings,triggers etc. it worked fine and I mean fine. The sound is an amazing change especially in the base. I have a very large open area (over 10k cubic feet) and 2 SVS PB12/2 subs and they have never been this sharp and punchy(not a perfect description) but you can feel it like never before. This is the first time the subs have ever been able to go to 25hz in my room.
> 
> The midrange and higher and so open it sounds like a different system completely. I have about 30 bass traps in the area so that does help a little, but they were there before.
> 
> Also I tried the new test software with my previous measurements and the results were nothing like the remeasured sound. I am using a D2 w/1.33. I was just curious if anyone else had their settings altered after uploading. I am a very happy camper right now.
> 
> P.S. Always write your settings down in case
> 
> 
> dmorse



Yes, I lost that triggers were enabled but not the settings themselves. I did not have any problem with menu names. It was an easy fix but did have me baffled for a bit.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/15911756
> 
> 
> Yes, I lost that triggers were enabled but not the settings themselves. I did not have any problem with menu names. It was an easy fix but did have me baffled for a bit.



Per Bob I just sent Nick a email about the settings getting wiped out. It was confusing at first but the little bit of hassle was well worth the results.


dmorse


----------



## jayray

I just did a new measurement with ARC 2.01.1 and with absolutely no changes in my room I got quite diff results with the same version. This is very puzzling. Below I have posted my charts. My cutoff for front speakers went from 115 to 60. Listening to the two diff uploads doesn't make much diff.

John

 

ARC 2.01.1(A).doc 77.5k . file

 

ARC 2.01.1(B).doc 76k . file

 

ARC 2.01.1 (C).doc 78k . file

 

ARC 2.01.1(D).doc 77.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15911836
> 
> 
> I just did a new measurement with ARC 2.01.1 and with absolutely no changes in my room I got quite diff results with the same version. This is very puzzling. Below I have posted my charts. My cutoff for front speakers went from 115 to 60. Listening to the two diff uploads doesn't make much diff.
> 
> John



That's quite a difference! It almost looks like the first pass mistakenly charted corrected curves as Measured curves.


How do the Measured curves for the second pass compare to your previous Measured curves from ARC V1.2.5 or ARC V2.0.1?

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15911836
> 
> 
> I just did a new measurement with ARC 2.01.1 and with absolutely no changes in my room I got quite diff results with the same version. This is very puzzling. Below I have posted my charts. My cutoff for front speakers went from 115 to 60. Listening to the two diff uploads doesn't make much diff.
> 
> John



I ended up with all crossovers set to 60,I think the changes are mostly internal. I do not think we can see what it is dong internally but it works great. Kind of a don't ask, don't tell.


dick


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
That's quite a difference! It almost looks like the first pass mistakenly charted corrected curves as Measured curves.


How do the Measured curves for the second pass compare to your previous Measured curves from ARC V1.2.5 or ARC V2.0.1?

--Bob
I don't have anything from 1.25 but my first measurement with the D2v is posted below. Funny thing is, the first measurement with 2.01.1 sounds fantstic. When I uploaded the second measurement, I could tell much of a diff.

John

 

ARC 2.00 (A).doc 79k . file

 

ARC 2.00 (B).doc 78.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15912324
> 
> 
> I don't have anything from 1.25 but my first measurement with the D2v is posted below. Funny thing is, the first measurement with 2.01.1 sounds fantstic. When I uploaded the second measurement, I could tell much of a diff.
> 
> John



The Measured curves in these older charts look very similar to your latest Measurements with ARC V2.0.1.1, which suggests your latest Measurements are correct. The fact that the Measured curves in the prior V2.0.1.1 set looked so smooth may simply be a bug in the way the charts were formatted. I.e., the values actually used for calculation were correct but the charts showed the wrong thing.


Both these old charts and your latest charts have the dip at 125Hz for LF/RF/C, and the peak at 150Hz for the surrounds. These two also show that your sub is little hot at 25Hz.


I suspect that your latest charts really do reflect what's going on in your room, which means you've got a room null at 125Hz for LF/RF/C that ought to be addressed with some room treatment as it is a bit deeper than ARC will correct -- at least for Center.


I suspect you are right on the edge of whether ARC uses a solution with a higher or lower crossover for LF/RF (due to that dip at 125Hz) and the latest try varied just enough for ARC to choose the lower crossover.


The fact that your charts came out with Measured curves looking so smooth in your middle run is definitely bizarre. I suggest you send the results file for these three runs (your original D2 run and your two subsequent V2.0.1.1 runs) to Nick at Anthem. The engineers can dig into the three files and figure out whether the middle run really has Measurements like its charts show, or whether it is just a formatting mistake for those charts.


ETA: Another bizarre possibility here is that your first ARC V2.0.1.1 pass failed to disable ARC correction during the test tone sweeps. But I wouldn't expect the results of that to sound all that great since the results Uploaded would not be introducing any significant corrections. I.e., it would have Measured that your room needed no correction!

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Thanks Bob and I will send to Nick.

John


Just got an email froml Nick. The engineers said there was a glitch in the first 2.01.1 measurement. Will upload the new measurement.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/15896056
> 
> 
> Bob (and others), I saw this post by you last month on the differences between the avm50v and the d2v:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=17883
> 
> 
> I was at my dealer today and wanted info on the d2v. My listening is probably 95%HT, 5% music. I've got Studio 100's for LCR, ADP-590 and Studio 10's for surrounds/rears. He pushed me to get the avm50v instead since it's a better deal, yada yada. He was not sure exactly of the differences so he called his guy at Anthem. He was on the phone with him and the guy told him the only differences were the Better DAC in the d2v, but everything else was identical. I am not sure if my ears are sophisticated enough to hear the better DAC over the avm50v, but my question is, are there other differences than what you posted last month (that maybe the anthem guy left out)?
> 
> 
> I am ok with either the d2v or the avm50v, but if I can save $2000 and not notice the difference I would do it. But if it's a noticeable difference even to newbies, maybe the d2v is worth it.
> 
> 
> He also loaned me a AVM30 (since he doesn't have the 50v or the d2v in stock) to try out instead of my Denon 3808 to see if I hear any improvement. Is the avm30 enough of a step up from the denon to get an idea if the avm50v or d2v will benefit me?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Shawn



I figured I would post an update on my previous post.


Ok so today I went back to the dealer and was able to talk to Anthem on the phone about my questions about the different amps and processors. Just repeating what I learned.


Basically, what I gathered from Anthem is the number one biggest difference between the MCA50v and the D2v is the up-converting of all audio signals. So if I watched a standard def dvd the D2v would up convert the audio to make it sound better than what the AVM50v would do. But he said, generally speaking audiophiles would appreciate the difference enough to spend the money on it.


As for the other differences, they will be unnoticeable to 99% of the people that hear them. For instance, the op amps are not better in the D2v, they are the exact same, they are just "hand matched and tested" in the D2v whereas in the AVM50v, they are the same just not hand tested and matched. But then he went into an explanation that the variance for op amps is like 10% so again unless I was an extreme audiophile I would not be able to tell the difference. Video quality is identical he said and audio quality on a blu ray will be near identical as well since the primary advantage of the d2 is in the up scaling of the lower quality audio signals. They both come with ARC etc.


He did say that if I watch a lot of standard dvds or tv and that will be my primary viewing, that I would probably notice the improvement in the audio upscaling in the D2v and should maybe consider it. But, I avoid standard dvd's like the plague whenever I can and all my tv shows are available in "HD" (I realize HD sometimes doesn't really mean HD, but you get the idea).


My dealer chimed in and said that 95% of the upgrade from my denon will be had with the AVM50v and the extra 5% will be had with the D2v, and that to some the difference in the D2v is worth a lot more than $2,000 and those people would spend the money in heart beat, and to some it may not even be noticeable. As for the upgrade from the Denon, he said the the biggest improvement will be in the center channel as Denon drops off the highs and lows from the center. And the second would be overall sound stage would be much better (especially with ARC!), and then the video will be considerably better.


I guess if my dealer and especially the Anthem guy told me it would be a night and day difference to go to the D2v I would have, but it sounds like a 8pm to 9pm difference . I think I will be happy with the 95% of the AVM50v.


Because my dealer knew I was unsure of what to buy without demoing them first, he said if I get the AVM50v home and love it, just keep, if I hate it or can't notice the improvement over my denon I can return it for a refund, and better yet, if I love it, but want more I can return it and order the D2v instead. So I don't think I can go wrong with atleast trying out the AVM50v.


So I ordered it! The good news is I got a great price on it, the bad news is that it's back ordered and Anthem doesn't know when it will come off backorder.


Hopefully I didn't make a mistake by cheaping out on the better product (yes I'm cheap







) . And I hope I can post here in a few weeks raving about the improvement over my Denon


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/15913155
> 
> 
> I figured I would post an update on my previous post.
> 
> 
> Ok so today I went back to the dealer and was able to talk to Anthem on the phone about my questions about the different amps and processors. Just repeating what I learned.
> 
> 
> Basically, what I gathered from Anthem is the number one biggest difference between the MCA50v and the D2v is the up-converting of all audio signals. So if I watched a standard def dvd the D2v would up convert the audio to make it sound better than what the AVM50v would do. But he said, generally speaking audiophiles would appreciate the difference enough to spend the money on it.
> 
> 
> As for the other differences, they will be unnoticeable to 99% of the people that hear them. For instance, the op amps are not better in the D2v, they are the exact same, they are just "hand matched and tested" in the D2v whereas in the AVM50v, they are the same just not hand tested and matched. But then he went into an explanation that the variance for op amps is like 10% so again unless I was an extreme audiophile I would not be able to tell the difference. Video quality is identical he said and audio quality on a blu ray will be near identical as well since the primary advantage of the d2 is in the up scaling of the lower quality audio signals. They both come with ARC etc.
> 
> 
> He did say that if I watch a lot of standard dvds or tv and that will be my primary viewing, that I would probably notice the improvement in the audio upscaling in the D2v and should maybe consider it. But, I avoid standard dvd's like the plague whenever I can and all my tv shows are available in "HD" (I realize HD sometimes doesn't really mean HD, but you get the idea).
> 
> 
> My dealer chimed in and said that 95% of the upgrade from my denon will be had with the AVM50v and the extra 5% will be had with the D2v, and that to some the difference in the D2v is worth a lot more than $2,000 and those people would spend the money in heart beat, and to some it may not even be noticeable. As for the upgrade from the Denon, he said the the biggest improvement will be in the center channel as Denon drops off the highs and lows from the center. And the second would be overall sound stage would be much better (especially with ARC!), and then the video will be considerably better.
> 
> 
> I guess if my dealer and especially the Anthem guy told me it would be a night and day difference to go to the D2v I would have, but it sounds like a 8pm to 9pm difference . I think I will be happy with the 95% of the AVM50v.
> 
> 
> Because my dealer knew I was unsure of what to buy without demoing them first, he said if I get the AVM50v home and love it, just keep, if I hate it or can't notice the improvement over my denon I can return it for a refund, and better yet, if I love it, but want more I can return it and order the D2v instead. So I don't think I can go wrong with atleast trying out the AVM50v.
> 
> 
> So I ordered it! The good news is I got a great price on it, the bad news is that it's back ordered and Anthem doesn't know when it will come off backorder.
> 
> 
> Hopefully I didn't make a mistake by cheaping out on the better product (yes I'm cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) . And I hope I can post here in a few weeks raving about the improvement over my Denon



You did not make a mistake at all. It sounds like you did an excellent job evaluating your position and working with your dealer, who seems to be better than most when it somes to giving you multiple reasonable options.


Mike


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Just put 2.0.1 on my D1. Sounds very muddy. Looked and the level calibration as it is playing louder for a given setting. The level setting has a maximum setting of -4.5 will not turn up past that but I am only getting 68 DB or so, all my speakers are set at +10.5 to +11. Ran the full process twice with the same results.


I did check and the ARC is active on the input I am testing with. Interesting in that it sounds best when I enter the speaker level setup, and that sounds different form disabling the ARC on the input.



Full disclaimer, my XP is a Fusion virtual machine on an iMac. Before I drag out my PC and try real hardware does this sound familiar to anyone?


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I asked a question above but would like to try it again. When I raise the cutoff for my front speakers and center channel, the charts smooth out for these three speakers. Can this be done without undoing other things ARC did?

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/15913541
> 
> 
> Just put 2.0.1 on my D1. Sounds very muddy. Looked and the level calibration as it is playing louder for a given setting. The level setting has a maximum setting of -4.5 will not turn up past that but I am only getting 68 DB or so, all my speakers are set at +10.5 to +11. Ran the full process twice with the same results.
> 
> 
> I did check and the ARC is active on the input I am testing with. Interesting in that it sounds best when I enter the speaker level setup, and that sounds different form disabling the ARC on the input.
> 
> 
> 
> Full disclaimer, my XP is a Fusion virtual machine on an iMac. Before I drag out my PC and try real hardware does this sound familiar to anyone?



When you did the sound calibration, did you set the sound level, which is just before the front left speaker level, to 75db with an spl meter, and then let ARC set the other levels? Of course the sub has to be set to 75db as well but from the vol adj in the sub, not the Anthem.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15914019
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I asked a question above but would like to try it again. When I raise the cutoff for my front speakers and center channel, the charts smooth out for these three speakers. Can this be done without undoing other things ARC did?
> 
> John



When you change the "cutoffs" in Targets and do a new Calculation, ARC produces the best solution it can find that preserves those cutoff values. Crossovers (for bass management) and speaker levels are adjusted as necessary.


--------------------------------


Raising the cutoffs moves more of the high bass to your sub, which it can certainly handle, but the higher bass frequencies are more localizable.


So the best solution would be some room treatment (e.g., corner bass traps) to reduce that room null at 125 Hz and then redo the ARC setup. You might be able to achieve the same thing by repositioning those speakers a little bit. With that null reduced, ARC will be able to give you complete correction along with the lower cutoffs.


But raising the cutoffs a bit is certainly a close second. Keep in mind that you may need to raise the cutoff for the sub as well.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I have had some measurements which used a 115 db cutoff for the fronts and even a 140 db cutoff for v. 1.25. I never noticed any localized bass so perhaps a try at 115 would be worth testing. When I calculate using this, the charts do smooth out.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/15913541
> 
> 
> Just put 2.0.1 on my D1. Sounds very muddy. Looked and the level calibration as it is playing louder for a given setting. The level setting has a maximum setting of -4.5 will not turn up past that but I am only getting 68 DB or so, all my speakers are set at +10.5 to +11. Ran the full process twice with the same results.
> 
> 
> I did check and the ARC is active on the input I am testing with. Interesting in that it sounds best when I enter the speaker level setup, and that sounds different form disabling the ARC on the input.
> 
> 
> 
> Full disclaimer, my XP is a Fusion virtual machine on an iMac. Before I drag out my PC and try real hardware does this sound familiar to anyone?



I'm sorry but I'm not following what you are saying.


Turning off ARC room correction (Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ for each source) only stops the room correction processing. The speaker levels and crossover values that ARC has uploaded are still in effect. Turning off ARC also turns back on the older, simpler correction tools such as the Room Resonance Filter.


------------------------------


What level setting are you talking about that, "has a maximum setting of -4.5"?


------------------------------


Go into Setup > Level Calibration and report all the values that ARC Uploaded into it. Then use your SPL meter and report the SPL level you are getting from the internal test tones in your D1 for each speaker, using those settings ARC Uploaded.


Remember that if you Reload Saved User or Installer Settings after doing an ARC Upload (and before having saved the Uploaded values into those memories) you will overwrite the volume levels and crossovers that ARC just Uploaded.


------------------------------


What firmware do you have installed on your D1 at the moment?


------------------------------


Did you go through the preliminary steps for setting Setup > Level Calibration > Noise Level, and for adjusting the internal volume control on your subwoofer, before doing the ARC Measurements?

--Bob


----------



## mikepebble




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15906535
> 
> 
> It is not uncommon for different styles of audio to have different volume levels. This is just the way the audio is mixed. Some CD players also have a volume control on their output. See how yours is set.
> 
> 
> Your speaker volume trims all make sense except the -5dB for your sub output indicates that the volume you set on your 2 subs is still a little high. Nothing to worry about, but before you do another measurement try lowering both subs another couple dB.
> 
> 
> Do not change the speaker volume trims ARC has uploaded. If you want to make temporary changes in volume for different speakers you can do that with the remote (see Section 4.6 of the Manual), but I recommend you first get used to what ARC has set up. The surround mix in most movies is not supposed to be all that aggressive, so the output ARC has set for your surrounds is most likely correct.
> 
> 
> What does your SPL meter show you if you try the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration now for the various speakers? Measure at ARC mic position #1 with the meter pointing straight up, slow response, "C" weighting.
> 
> 
> In terms of comparison to your ARC V1.2.5 setup, check the charts for that result vs. what ARC V2.0.1 gave you. Look for what I've been calling the "basic volume level" ARC is targeting in each solution. This is the flat part of the Target curves to the right of the Room Gain hump near the crossovers. I suspect you will find that the ARC V1.2.5 solution targeted a higher basic volume level.
> 
> 
> The basic volume level in an ARC solution, and the Setup calibration tones in a manual speaker setup, correspond to what a reference level audio input signal would produce as speaker output when the main volume control on the Anthem is set to -10dB.
> 
> --Bob



Hi again Bob! I did the spl meter testing again on each speaker using the arc ver 2.01 measurements and got these results


The settings now are

Noise level +2.5 = 75.2-75.7

Fr left +1 =76.1-76.4

centre 0 =75.6-75.9

Fr r +1.5 =75.7-76.0

Sur r -1 =73.7-74.

Rear r +1.5 =75.1-75.3

rear l +1.5 =75.9-76.2

Sur l -1.5 =75.4-75.7

Sub -5 =72.4-73.5

readings taken in the original #1 mic position.Should I still lower the the sub a couple of DB and it should be done from the sub vol. knob --right?

I check ver 1.25 and the basic vol. level was on average 4 to 5db higher! Bob how do you read the sub graph as far as that target level for vol. goes?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikepebble* /forum/post/15914418
> 
> 
> Hi again Bob! I did the spl meter testing again on each speaker using the arc ver 2.01 measurements and got these results
> 
> 
> The settings now are
> 
> Noise level +2.5 = 75.2-75.7
> 
> Fr left +1 =76.1-76.4
> 
> centre 0 =75.6-75.9
> 
> Fr r +1.5 =75.7-76.0
> 
> Sur r -1 =73.7-74.
> 
> Rear r +1.5 =75.1-75.3
> 
> rear l +1.5 =75.9-76.2
> 
> Sur l -1.5 =75.4-75.7
> 
> Sub -5 =72.4-73.5
> 
> readings taken in the original #1 mic position.Should I still lower the the sub a couple of DB and it should be done from the sub vol. knob --right?
> 
> I check ver 1.25 and the basic vol. level was on average 4 to 5db higher! Bob how do you read the sub graph as far as that target level for vol. goes?



All of this looks reasonable. The volume difference you found was simply that the ARC V1.2.5 and ARC V2.0.1 solutions settled on different basic volume levels. The choice of basic volume levels has to do with how ARC builds its solution to bias most of the corrections as cuts of peaks rather than boosts of dips -- since boosting is harder on the amps. ARC V2.0.1 just found a different, and likely better, solution.


You don't really need to do anything to your sub volumes, but if you are going to re-Measure anyway, then sure, lower each sub by a couple dB and the speaker volume trim ARC Uploads for the sub will be a bit closer to 0dB.

--Bob


----------



## mikepebble




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15914503
> 
> 
> All of this looks reasonable. The volume difference you found was simply that the ARC V1.2.5 and ARC V2.0.1 solutions settled on different basic volume levels. The choice of basic volume levels has to do with how ARC builds its solution to bias most of the corrections as cuts of peaks rather than boosts of dips -- since boosting is harder on the amps. ARC V2.0.1 just found a different, and likely better, solution.
> 
> 
> You don't really need to do anything to your sub volumes, but if you are going to re-Measure anyway, then sure, lower each sub by a couple dB and the speaker volume trim ARC Uploads for the sub will be a bit closer to 0dB.
> 
> --Bob



I'll make sure to lower each sub when I re-measure.I'm anxious for the ver 2.01.1 to be official -sounds like a keeper. As always Bob thanks for the help!!--Mikepebble


----------



## goatwuss

Hi Guys,


Sorry if this has been covered before... what are the changes in version 2.0.1 of ARC from 1.2.5? I don't see the release notes on Anthem's site. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/15915567
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been covered before... what are the changes in version 2.0.1 of ARC from 1.2.5? I don't see the release notes on Anthem's site. Thanks



From the "Read Me" text file that can be found in the downloadable ARC V2.0.1 install folder:



> Quote:
> v2.0.1:
> 
> 
> 1. Added ARC to D2v and AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> 2. Change to how sub crossover frequency is selected to address cases where the sub is a lot closer to the listener than the center channel, causing dialog to be heard from the sub if its crossover was set high enough.
> 
> 
> 3. More settings available for configurations not using a subwoofer. Note that while the front channels will be set to Large in the setup menu, ARC will still create a low frequency contour on the room correction target based on response at those frequencies. This cutoff frequency, displayed in the Targets panel, is separate from the bass manager's crossover.
> 
> 
> 4. The Targets panel also has options for setting the processor's bass manager to run channels at full range. These are best left unchecked, especially for surround channels since surround speakers are usually smaller.
> 
> 
> 5. Selecting Rears for measurement is not allowed if Surrounds are unselected. (In a 5.1 system use Surround channels, not Rears.)
> 
> 
> 6. Improved measurement at very low frequencies. Since this relates to frequencies below the lowest note on a bass guitar, it may not make a difference depending on existing in-room response.
> 
> 
> 7. Improved measurement at very high frequencies.
> 
> 
> If you have a file measured with ARC v1.2 to v1.2.5, remeasurement is not necessary. To convert the file format just open the file with the latest version of ARC, calculate, and upload. If you are uploading a file created for an AVM 40, AVM 50, D1, or D2 to an AVM 50v or D2v, ARC will ask for confirmation that you want to convert the file for use with the newer model.



--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15914373
> 
> 
> I'm sorry but I'm not following what you are saying.
> 
> 
> Turning off ARC room correction (Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ for each source) only stops the room correction processing. The speaker levels and crossover values that ARC has uploaded are still in effect. Turning off ARC also turns back on the older, simpler correction tools such as the Room Resonance Filter.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> What level setting are you talking about that, "has a maximum setting of -4.5"?
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Go into Setup > Level Calibration and report all the values that ARC Uploaded into it. Then use your SPL meter and report the SPL level you are getting from the internal test tones in your D1 for each speaker, using those settings ARC Uploaded.
> 
> 
> Remember that if you Reload Saved User or Installer Settings after doing an ARC Upload (and before having saved the Uploaded values into those memories) you will overwrite the volume levels and crossovers that ARC just Uploaded.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> What firmware do you have installed on your D1 at the moment?
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Did you go through the preliminary steps for setting Setup > Level Calibration > Noise Level, and for adjusting the internal volume control on your subwoofer, before doing the ARC Measurements?
> 
> --Bob



Sorry for the confusing post, trying to get the calibration done before picking up the kids.


The setting that was at -4.5 was the noise setting. Firmware is 1.33. The problem was that I could not get the noise setting above -4.5, the settable range was -20.0 to -4.5. User and installer reloads did not help, factory reset did.


After the factory reset a noise setting of +4.0 gave me 74 dB SPL using C weight slow except for the sub. It was way hot, the kids are asleep in the other end of the house so I did not leave it on long enough to measure. It pegged the SPL meter on the 70 dB setting, more to the point I was afraid of waking the house.


After rerunning everything the speakers are in the +2.0 to -1.5 range except for the sub, it still is getting a -9.0 so it needs a little more trimming on its built in gain setting. The L/C/R are within 0.5 dB correction of each other, my sourrounds have placement issues so the trim/boot spread is believable.


Setting up the cable box and playing some recorded concerts things sound like they will be back to normal. Will have to work tomorrow night to get the HD/BR/Wii/PS3 all reconfigured so I can do some critical listening.


My guess is that 2.0.1 went completely nuts trying to get the L/Ç/R/LS/RS to meet the sub in the middle with such a large spread. The difference between the speakers and the sub must have been at least 15 dB if not more. I do not know how the sub output setting would have changed, it is in a corner and well out of the way. Point being that I think the sub has been set this way for a long time with no problems with ARC 1.2.5, but I can not be sure. Second guess is that running XP in a Fusion virtual machine on an iMac did something crazy with the measuring. Time will tell I guess.










At any rate all seems to be normal now. Thanks to those who responded.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/15916395
> 
> 
> At any rate all seems to be normal now. Thanks to those who responded.



OK, it sounds like you are back on track.


The Level Calibration menu has a maximum trim gain it can impose. That's made up of the combination of Test Level and the highest speaker volume trim line. Since you had some of those lines cranked up pretty high, you couldn't raise Test Level above -4.5 without exceeding the maximum total gain available.


So zero out every line in that menu, then adjust the Test Level line to yield 75db SPL (the test tone will be coming from the LF speaker). Then, leaving Test Level at that value, scroll down to a subwoofer line (which is still at 0dB), and leaving that line unchanged at 0dB, adjust the volume knob built into your sub to yield 75db SPL. Ballpark is close enough for both of these settings as ARC will determine the final adjustments.


The Test Level line you just set will be used by ARC to set the volume for its test sweep tones. The volume knob setting in your sub assures that the sub is already reasonably closely matched to the output level of your main speakers so that ARC can easily trim up everything staying within the available trim range.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Houston, We Have an LFE Level Problem!*


First off, I'm now allowed to reveal that my mystery Blu-Ray player is the Oppo BDP-83. I've been part of the crew Beta testing this new player for quite a while now. I'm still awaiting clarification of just what feature set will be included in the Early Adopter Program players Oppo is shipping out this week. As soon as I know that, I can talk about what I know within the confines of that feature set -- and, in particular talk about how the Oppo works with the Anthems.


The short answer is that it works quite well indeed, but still needs some polishing. It is a serious contender to replace the PS3 as my favorite Blu-Ray player.


----------------------------------------


Now using the Oppo, I can test audio playback both with decoding in the player (HDMI LPCM output) and with decoding in the D2v (HDMI Bitstream output).


And I've just discovered that there is a problem with LFE levels in the D2v with "test" V2.02c firmware and with a "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 results file Uploaded.


I've confirmed that HDMI LPCM input yields LFE which is 5dB higher than what you get for HDMI Bitstream input both for 5.1 TrueHD audio and for traditional DD5.1 audio. I've not yet tested traditional DTS. I don't have a good test disc to use to test DTS-HD MA.


My guess is that the bug here is in the D2v's handling of HDMI LPCM LFE input, and that this bug may be due to "test" ARC V2.0.1.1. I had mentioned that I was surprised by the bass boost that came with ARC V2.0.1.1, and this may be part of the reason since I've been doing virtually all of my ARC testing using HDMI LPCM input.


The PS3 only offers HDMI LPCM output, but when I run the LFE tests on the PS3 it produces the same results as HDMI LPCM output from the Oppo. So evidently this is NOT a problem in the Oppo's internal decoding of TrueHD or DD5.1


Anthem has been alerted.


----------------------------------------------------


For those that want to give this a try with other players, you can do the TrueHD test using "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray. Go to Complete Program Menu > Audio Test Signals > Multi-channel Levels & Balance. Of all the Audio tests on this disc, this one is unique in that it actually sends out an LFE signal. The other, multi-speaker, audio tests all send their bass out through the main speaker channels to be steered to the subwoofer in the AVR.


This test plays an LFE test tone and then pans around the room on the main speakers. All the tones are supposed to be at the same level.


Adjust main volume in the D2v to yield some reasonable level such as 75dB SPL during that pan. Then chapter back twice to start the test over and note the SPL value you get from the subwoofer. Do this with a player that can both internally decode TrueHD and also send it out as a Bitstream for decoding in the D2v.


You'll find that HDMI LPCM LFE is 5dB higher than HDMI Bitstream LFE.


-----------------------------------


I did the DD5.1 test using the fairly new audio test disc added to the "Avia Pro" SD-DVD test disc set. The result is the same: HDMI LPCM LFE (decoding in the player) is 5dB higher than HDMI Bitstream LFE (decoding in the D2v). Again, it wouldn't surprise me to learn that this bug is due to "test" ARC V2.0.1.1.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

Bob, I was playing for the first time with TrueHD last night and the PS3. What the D2v displays is "PCM" and I do not see the little TrueHD blue LED lighting up on the D2v - which I expected and suggests it is not actually receiving the signal properly. Is that normal or have I missed something? I certainly couldn't hear that anything had changed.....

The PS3 does say it is sending TrueHD (by pressing the select button I can see that)


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15916845
> 
> 
> OK, it sounds like you are back on track.
> 
> 
> The Level Calibration menu has a maximum trim gain it can impose. That's made up of the combination of Test Level and the highest speaker volume trim line. Since you had some of those lines cranked up pretty high, you couldn't raise Test Level above -4.5 without exceeding the maximum total gain available.
> 
> 
> So zero out every line in that menu, then adjust the Test Level line to yield 75db SPL (the test tone will be coming from the LF speaker). Then, leaving Test Level at that value, scroll down to a subwoofer line (which is still at 0dB), and leaving that line unchanged at 0dB, adjust the volume knob built into your sub to yield 75db SPL. Ballpark is close enough for both of these settings as ARC will determine the final adjustments.
> 
> 
> The Test Level line you just set will be used by ARC to set the volume for its test sweep tones. The volume knob setting in your sub assures that the sub is already reasonably closely matched to the output level of your main speakers so that ARC can easily trim up everything staying within the available trim range.
> 
> --Bob



All of that makes sense, and I did try taking all the settings back to 0.0 before running the ARC the second time. That is when I discovered that the noise setting was limited to no higher than -4.5 dB. Thinking about it I did not exit the speaker level setup and then reenter with all the settings that I could change set back to 0.0. Perhaps if I had done that I could have gotten control of the noise setting. As it was the second calibration run did the same thing as the first. Resetting with the factory defaults so I could set the noise calibration and fixing the sub level seems to have worked. As we say at work, lots of dependancies.


Thanks for the help.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15917606
> 
> 
> Bob, I was playing for the first time with TrueHD last night and the PS3. What the D2v displays is "PCM" and I do not see the little TrueHD blue LED lighting up on the D2v - which I expected and suggests it is not actually receiving the signal properly. Is that normal or have I missed something? I certainly couldn't hear that anything had changed.....
> 
> The PS3 does say it is sending TrueHD (by pressing the select button I can see that)



This is a common misconception... The PS3 can not bitstream so what you are seeing is correct.....If I had a dollar for everytime this comes up I'd have my D2V upgrade paid for.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15917606
> 
> 
> Bob, I was playing for the first time with TrueHD last night and the PS3. What the D2v displays is "PCM" and I do not see the little TrueHD blue LED lighting up on the D2v - which I expected and suggests it is not actually receiving the signal properly. Is that normal or have I missed something? I certainly couldn't hear that anything had changed.....
> 
> The PS3 does say it is sending TrueHD (by pressing the select button I can see that)



It is normal.


TrueHD and DTS-HD MA are lossless packing formats used to compress the simplest form of digital audio -- LPCM -- into a form that takes up less space on disc and uses a lower bit rate when reading data off the disc. Kind of like Zipping a file or folder on your computer. Before TrueHD or DTS-HD MA can be used to make sound they have to be decoded (un-Zipped if you will) back into LPCM. They are "lossless" formats in the sense that the LPCM that comes out of the decoder is bit for bit identical to the LPCM that went into the encoder in the studio.


Contrast with traditional DD5.1 and DTS, which are also packing formats but which are "lossy". They compress the audio even more at the expense of losing some of the quality. The LPCM that comes out of the decoder is not identical to the LPCM that was encoded in the studio.


The packed format for any of these is called a "Bitstream".


HDMI V1.1 and above allows transmission of high-bandwidth, multi-channel LPCM audio. All versions of HDMI also allow the transmission of Bitstream audio for the traditional, lossy formats. HDMI V1.3 adds the ability to transmit Bitstreams for TrueHD and DTS-HD MA. (This is one of many OPTIONAL features in HDMI V1.3, so not all HDMI V1.3 devices support this.)


A transmitted Bitstream still needs to be decoded back into LPCM before you can hear the audio.


Now the original D2 (an HDMI V1.1 device) can decode the traditional, lossy, DD and DTS formats, but not the lossless TrueHD and DTS-HD MA formats. So to play this audio over HDMI you need to use a player that does the decoding to LPCM, such as the PS3.


The new D2v (an HDMI V1.3c device) adds the ability to receive and decode the lossless TrueHD and DTS-HD MA bitstreams.


The final piece of the puzzle is that the PS3, which is one of the first HDMI V1.3 devices, DOES NOT SUPPORT THE OPTIONAL FEATURE OF HDMI BITSTREAM OUTPUT for the lossless TrueHD and DTS-HD MA formats. This is a hardware limitation in the HDMI V1.3 chips used in the PS3.


------------------------------------------


So what's going on when you use the PS3 is that the PS3 is decoding these tracks to LPCM and sending them to the D2v as HDMI LPCM. There's no way for you to change this behavior since the PS3 doesn't support HDMI Bitstream output of TrueHD or DTS-HD MA.


Meanwhile the D2v sees high bandwidth, multi-channel HDMI LPCM input. It has no idea what packing format was used by the audio track on the disc since that Bitstream has already been decoded by the PS3. The track might even have been a RAW (unpacked) LPCM track. So the D2v says it is receiving PCM at high bandwidth (most commonly 48KHz) and does not light up the TrueHD or DTS-HD MA lights.


[NOTE: The L in LPCM stands for "linear" not "lossless". LPCM is a particular flavor of PCM (Pulse Code Modulation), and the only flavor used for home theater stuff. Everyone used to just say PCM, but since the lossless Blu-Ray packing formats came out it has become in vogue to use the more specific term LPCM, probably in the misguided belief that LPCM is somehow superior to PCM because of that L.]


With the Oppo BDP-83, the player can be set to decode internally or to output the undecoded Bitstream for decoding in the D2v. When the player is set to decode internally the D2v sees HDMI LPCM input -- again with no idea whether the source track was TrueHD, DTS-HD MA, or a raw (unpacked) LPCM track. When the player is set to output the Bitstream, the D2v sees either a TrueHD or DTS-HD MA HDMI Bitstream as input, decodes it, and lights up the little light.


By the way, there's no quality difference between audio decoded in the player or audio decoded in the D2v (bugs aside). Either decoder produces the identical LPCM -- bit for bit identical -- as went into the encoder in the studio. That's what it means to be "lossless". The certification programs from Dolby Labs and DTS are supposed to insure this.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

Fantastic. A comprehensive explanation. Thanks!


Now, does the blue light being on actually add to the enjoyment of the movie.........


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15918609
> 
> 
> Meanwhile the D2v sees high bandwidth, multi-channel HDMI LPCM input. It has no idea what packing format was used by the audio track on the disc since that Bitstream has already been decoded by the PS3. The track might even have been a RAW (unpacked) LPCM track. So the D2v says it is receiving PCM at high bandwidth (most commonly 48KHz) and does not light up the TrueHD or DTS-HD MA lights.
> 
> 
> [NOTE: The L in LPCM stands for "linear" not "lossless". LPCM is a particular flavor of PCM (Pulse Code Modulation), and the only flavor used for home theater stuff. Everyone used to just say PCM, but since the lossless Blu-Ray packing formats came out it has become in vogue to use the more specific term LPCM, probably in the misguided belief that LPCM is somehow superior to PCM because of that L.]
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks again for another excellent explanation! I have recently been poring through the forum regarding a different subject but haven't been successful in finding an answer to my question: What does the D2 (not D2v) do with a 7.1 PCM stream? I have a Samsung BD-P2500 Blu-Ray player doing the decoding of all audio streams and I am wondering what actually happens to the 2 additional rear surround channels? I would assume that the D2 drops the two "rear" surround channels of the 7.1 PCM stream and "matrixes out" rear channel information from what is in the surround(side) channels (like a traditional 5.1 to 7.1 conversion.) Any ideas? Thanks in advance!


Bart


----------



## muad'dib

Hello Bob..


From your Quote: "By the way, there's no quality difference between audio decoded in the player or audio decoded in the D2v (bugs aside). Either decoder produces the identical LPCM -- bit for bit identical -- as went into the encoder in the studio. That's what it means to be "lossless". The certification programs from Dolby Labs and DTS are supposed to insure this."



I have a question for you then..



In the past, when having the dvd player/blu-ray player decoding the DD/DTS tracks on DVD to LPCM via HDMI to a stereo, there was HUGE sound difference..


Example: I had a Pioneer elite blu-ray player, Anthem D2.


Test: 1) Had pioneer do all the work. Send out full range LPCM via hdmi to D2 after it had decoded the DD/DTS tracks on DVD..


Sound was ok, but THIN.. not dynamic and lacked a little in bass.


Test: 2) Have same player send same DD/DTS tracks via hdmi to D2 bitstreamed..


Sound now was Much more Dynamic, full of life and more bass..



The difference was quite amazing.. Like having a compressed version of the recording when done in player, but full of live version with D2 doing the conversion..



Now , this being said, how are these new audio formats any different in the conversion process? You still are having the player do the Convert to Lpcm like it does for normal DD/DTS..


If so, would you not get the same degraded dynamics etc, as when it did DD/DTS?



Maybe there is something different going on??



For a Test.. I borrowed my buddies PS3 and played a blu-ray with DTS HD MA to LPCM, then played same movie in my Sony Bdp-s550 via Bitstream, and the Bitstream to ours ears did sound different..


More discrete surround info, and more dynamic.. Just as my findings with DD/DTS were in past..


Very starnge, but fun....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/15919212
> 
> 
> Bob, thanks again for another excellent explanation! I have recently been poring through the forum regarding a different subject but haven't been successful in finding an answer to my question: What does the D2 (not D2v) do with a 7.1 PCM stream? I have a Samsung BD-P2500 Blu-Ray player doing the decoding of all audio streams and I am wondering what actually happens to the 2 additional rear surround channels? I would assume that the D2 drops the two "rear" surround channels of the 7.1 PCM stream and "matrixes out" rear channel information from what is in the surround(side) channels (like a traditional 5.1 to 7.1 conversion.) Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> Bart



The original D2 does not accept 7.1 channel HDMI LPCM input. Its maximum is 5.1 channel HDMI LPCM.


What happens when you select a 7.1 channel track off the disc depends on the player. What is SUPPOSED to happen is that the player knows (from the HDMI handshake) that the D2 can only accept up to 5.1, and so the player mixes the rear channels into the side channels to make 5.1 output.


As far as I know, every player that supports both 5.1 and 7.1 output does this correctly. But you could imagine a player that just discarded that rear channel info or simply refused to connect to the D2 due to its inability to accept 7.1. Such a player would likely be detected and given the horse laugh by folks using all sorts of AVRs -- not just D2 owners.


The PS3 properly mixes the rear channels of a 7.1 track into the side channels to make 5.1 output for the D2.


Now the D2 can raise 5.1 channel input to 7.1 speaker output using a surround sound processing algorithm such as PLIIx. It can do this whether the original track was 5.1 or was 7.1 down-mixed to 5.1 in the player. We've had several reports, most notably from FILMMIXER who does this for a living, that the D2 does this very well indeed.


-----------------------------------------


The new D2v and AVM 50v can accept 7.1 channel HDMI input. (Their analog audio input is still limited to 5.1.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/15919457
> 
> 
> Hello Bob..
> 
> 
> From your Quote: "By the way, there's no quality difference between audio decoded in the player or audio decoded in the D2v (bugs aside). Either decoder produces the identical LPCM -- bit for bit identical -- as went into the encoder in the studio. That's what it means to be "lossless". The certification programs from Dolby Labs and DTS are supposed to insure this."
> 
> 
> 
> I have a question for you then..
> 
> 
> 
> In the past, when having the dvd player/blu-ray player decoding the DD/DTS tracks on DVD to LPCM via HDMI to a stereo, there was HUGE sound difference..
> 
> 
> Example: I had a Pioneer elite blu-ray player, Anthem D2.
> 
> 
> Test: 1) Had pioneer do all the work. Send out full range LPCM via hdmi to D2 after it had decoded the DD/DTS tracks on DVD..
> 
> 
> Sound was ok, but THIN.. not dynamic and lacked a little in bass.
> 
> 
> Test: 2) Have same player send same DD/DTS tracks via hdmi to D2 bitstreamed..
> 
> 
> Sound now was Much more Dynamic, full of life and more bass..
> 
> 
> 
> The difference was quite amazing.. Like having a compressed version of the recording when done in player, but full of live version with D2 doing the conversion..
> 
> 
> 
> Now , this being said, how are these new audio formats any different in the conversion process? You still are having the player do the Convert to Lpcm like it does for normal DD/DTS..
> 
> 
> If so, would you not get the same degraded dynamics etc, as when it did DD/DTS?
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe there is something different going on??
> 
> 
> 
> For a Test.. I borrowed my buddies PS3 and played a blu-ray with DTS HD MA to LPCM, then played same movie in my Sony Bdp-s550 via Bitstream, and the Bitstream to ours ears did sound different..
> 
> 
> More discrete surround info, and more dynamic.. Just as my findings with DD/DTS were in past..
> 
> 
> Very starnge, but fun....



Such differences are usual due to one of two things:


First, even slight variations in the volume level will bias the test. The louder version will sound better. Even use of an SPL meter may not be good enough to volume match the two styles.


But most importantly there is a history of bugs, particularly as regards the LFE channel of LPCM.


LFE is deliberately recorded 10dB lower than the rest of the channels to allow for extra dynamic range (explosions). The LFE needs to be boosted by 10dB before it is sent to the subwoofer. Even more important, the LFE needs to be boosted before bass steered from the main speaker channels is mixed in with it.


The 10dB low and 5dB low LFE bugs crop up in all sorts of guises, but one very common one was the handling of HDMI LPCM. Until HD DVD and then Blu-Ray players made that popular, it was common for receivers to screw this up. And players can also screw this up.


The D2 had its own bug in this regard (fixed in late 2006).


So whenever I hear that a comparison was tried like this and that one method result in anemic bass compared to the other, my immediate reaction is that the LFE bug has once again reared its head.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15919949
> 
> 
> Such differences are usual due to one of two things:
> 
> 
> First, even slight variations in the volume level will bias the test. The louder version will sound better. Even use of an SPL meter may not be good enough to volume match the two styles.
> 
> 
> But most importantly there is a history of bugs, particularly as regards the LFE channel of LPCM.
> 
> 
> LFE is deliberately recorded 10dB lower than the rest of the channels to allow for extra dynamic range (explosions). The LFE needs to be boosted by 10dB before it is sent to the subwoofer. Even more important, the LFE needs to be boosted before bass steered from the main speaker channels is mixed in with it.
> 
> 
> The 10dB low and 5dB low LFE bugs crop up in all sorts of guises, but one very common one was the handling of HDMI LPCM. Until HD DVD and then Blu-Ray players made that popular, it was common for receivers to screw this up. And players can also screw this up.
> 
> 
> The D2 had its own bug in this regard (fixed in late 2006).
> 
> 
> So whenever I hear that a comparison was tried like this and that one method result in anemic bass compared to the other, my immediate reaction is that the LFE bug has once again reared its head.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks again Bob..











As for the volume matching, I tried to do so (and totally agree that if not done, the loud will sound better), and the overall dynamics were for sure different.. Not so much the overall volume (they sound close), but the loud to soft parts were more seperated with bitstream.


Tried this also with many other makes and models.. Seems like a high end receiver/pre will do a better job than a cheap dvd player/blu-ray..


Eitherway, thanks for the awesome info, and I'm just loving my D2V... Very sweet sounding..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Speaking of LFE problems, Nick tells me they've confirmed the LFE level mismatch problem I reported here last night (D2v, "test" V2.02c firmware, "test" V2.0.1.1 ARC).


I don't have an ETA on a fix yet.

--Bob


----------



## flavorguy

[


> Quote:
> QUOTE=Bob Pariseau;15916877]*Houston, We Have an LFE Level Problem!*
> 
> 
> First off, I'm now allowed to reveal that my mystery Blu-Ray player is the Oppo BDP-83. I've been part of the crew Beta testing this new player for quite a while now. I'm still awaiting clarification of just what feature set will be included in the Early Adopter Program players Oppo is shipping out this week. As soon as I know that, I can talk about what I know within the confines of that feature set -- and, in particular talk about how the Oppo works with the Anthems.
> 
> 
> The short answer is that it works quite well indeed, but still needs some polishing. It is a serious contender to replace the PS3 as my favorite Blu-Ray player.



----------------------------------------

Bob - Great to know that the resident guru of the D2 and AVM50 will have hands on experience with the Oppo...


I am presently thinking of selling my Denon 3800 BDCI to a friend and substituting the Oppo. I bought the Denon due to its analog decoding capabilities, but I have found that with the ARC on my AVM50V, I prefer to have the 50v handle the processing on my audio via HDMI rather than the Denon's audio decoding via analog...


Am I correct with this train of thought? If so I want to jump on the Oppo EAP list...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15923016
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> Bob - Great to know that the resident guru of the D2 and AVM50 will have hands on experience with the Oppo...
> 
> 
> I am presently thinking of selling my Denon 3800 BDCI to a friend and substituting the Oppo. I bought the Denon due to its analog decoding capabilities, but I have found that with the ARC on my AVM50V, I prefer to have the 50v handle the processing on my audio via HDMI rather than the Denon's audio decoding via analog...
> 
> 
> Am I correct with this train of thought? If so I want to jump on the Oppo EAP list...



HDMI Audio is still my preference, although we've had plenty of folks here say they like what they are hearing using analog audio, processed in the Anthem with ARC (as opposed to Analog-Direct pass through).


I think it is best to minimizes the number of conversions -- which means HDMI digital audio from the player is the way to go.

--Bob


----------



## facke02

Quick question. Is there a secret to getting 36bit video out of the D2v? I have a Kuro Elite 150FD and Panasonic BDP30 BD player that will show up as 24p 36bit on the Kuro. With the D2v in the loop I'm not getting that display. My video config is 1920x1080p24 with YCbCr 4:4:4. What am I missing?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is a bug in the original D2v firmware that inhibits that. Get the "test" V2.02c firmware from Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15923936
> 
> 
> There is a bug in the original D2v firmware that inhibits that. Get the "test" V2.02c firmware from Anthem tech support.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I'll do that.


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15916877
> 
> *Houston, We Have an LFE Level Problem!*
> 
> 
> First off, I'm now allowed to reveal that my mystery Blu-Ray player is the Oppo BDP-83. I've been part of the crew Beta testing this new player for quite a while now. I'm still awaiting clarification of just what feature set will be included in the Early Adopter Program players Oppo is shipping out this week. As soon as I know that, I can talk about what I know within the confines of that feature set -- and, in particular talk about how the Oppo works with the Anthems.
> 
> 
> The short answer is that it works quite well indeed, but still needs some polishing. It is a serious contender to replace the PS3 as my favorite Blu-Ray player.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now using the Oppo, I can test audio playback both with decoding in the player (HDMI LPCM output) and with decoding in the D2v (HDMI Bitstream output).
> 
> 
> And I've just discovered that there is a problem with LFE levels in the D2v with "test" V2.02c firmware and with a "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 results file Uploaded.
> 
> 
> I've confirmed that HDMI LPCM input yields LFE which is 5dB higher than what you get for HDMI Bitstream input both for 5.1 TrueHD audio and for traditional DD5.1 audio. I've not yet tested traditional DTS. I don't have a good test disc to use to test DTS-HD MA.
> 
> 
> My guess is that the bug here is in the D2v's handling of HDMI LPCM LFE input, and that this bug may be due to "test" ARC V2.0.1.1. I had mentioned that I was surprised by the bass boost that came with ARC V2.0.1.1, and this may be part of the reason since I've been doing virtually all of my ARC testing using HDMI LPCM input.
> 
> 
> The PS3 only offers HDMI LPCM output, but when I run the LFE tests on the PS3 it produces the same results as HDMI LPCM output from the Oppo. So evidently this is NOT a problem in the Oppo's internal decoding of TrueHD or DD5.1
> 
> 
> Anthem has been alerted.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> For those that want to give this a try with other players, you can do the TrueHD test using "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray. Go to Complete Program Menu > Audio Test Signals > Multi-channel Levels & Balance. Of all the Audio tests on this disc, this one is unique in that it actually sends out an LFE signal. The other, multi-speaker, audio tests all send their bass out through the main speaker channels to be steered to the subwoofer in the AVR.
> 
> 
> This test plays an LFE test tone and then pans around the room on the main speakers. All the tones are supposed to be at the same level.
> 
> 
> Adjust main volume in the D2v to yield some reasonable level such as 75dB SPL during that pan. Then chapter back twice to start the test over and note the SPL value you get from the subwoofer. Do this with a player that can both internally decode TrueHD and also send it out as a Bitstream for decoding in the D2v.
> 
> 
> You'll find that HDMI LPCM LFE is 5dB higher than HDMI Bitstream LFE.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> I did the DD5.1 test using the fairly new audio test disc added to the "Avia Pro" SD-DVD test disc set. The result is the same: HDMI LPCM LFE (decoding in the player) is 5dB higher than HDMI Bitstream LFE (decoding in the D2v). Again, it wouldn't surprise me to learn that this bug is due to "test" ARC V2.0.1.1.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I knew you must be testing the Oppo BDP-83 when you started dropping hints about an unnamed player. I'm glad to see that you are testing this along with the D2v since that is the combination that I've been planning to end up with for awhile now. I was not selected for the EAP (at least not the first 50), and the D2 to D2v upgrade is not available yet, so I'm waiting on both fronts. Please keep us posted.


Buddy


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15913518
> 
> 
> You did not make a mistake at all. It sounds like you did an excellent job evaluating your position and working with your dealer, who seems to be better than most when it somes to giving you multiple reasonable options.
> 
> 
> Mike



Thanks Mike










How long are the guys that ordered (while it was on backorder) waiting for their units to come?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15921250
> 
> 
> Speaking of LFE problems, Nick tells me they've confirmed the LFE level mismatch problem I reported here last night (D2v, "test" V2.02c firmware, "test" V2.0.1.1 ARC).
> 
> 
> I don't have an ETA on a fix yet.
> 
> --Bob



Do you know if the same bug is present with ARC 2.0.1.1 and a D2 with v1.33?


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/15924985
> 
> 
> Thanks Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How long are the guys that ordered (while it was on backorder) waiting for their units to come?



I can't comment of the AVM50, but I ordered my D2v on January 26th (probably called in to Anthem from my dealer on the 27th) and I just got word late today that it is still at least 2 weeks away.


I just missed the first crop of units as those who ordred them from my dealer on the 23rd of January have had them for a few weeks already.


At least my dealer is courteous enough not to charge the credit card until the unit is at their shop and ready for me to have.


Mike


----------



## shawnwalters

Thanks for the info. Wow that's a long wait. I better stop thinking about then or I'll drive myself crazy - it's only been a day


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15925035
> 
> 
> Do you know if the same bug is present with ARC 2.0.1.1 and a D2 with v1.33?



I'm not certain yet what combination of software generates this 5dB high HDMI LPCM LFE level bug.


It may be the D2v "test" V2.02c firmware, or it may be the "test" V2.0.1.1 ARC software (on any hardware), or it may be the combination of them.


My guess is that the bug really is in "test" ARC V2.0.1.1, and so it may very well affect all hardware using that "test" ARC version.


If you have "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 set up on your D2 (V1.33 firmware), then you can try this yourself and report back. You need a player that can decode to HDMI LPCM while playing a test track that sends out an LFE test tone distinct from the tones sent to the main speakers (as opposed to sending bass to the main speakers and expecting it to be steered to the subwoofer).


For example, if you have a player, such as the PS3 that can internally decode a TrueHD track, and if you have the "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray test disc, you can perform this test as follows:


1) Set your decoding Blu-Ray player to decode and output HDMI LPCM when playing a TrueHD track.


2) If your player has a control that enables "secondary audio" or "menu audio" temporarily turn those off to keep from confusing things. (Some players revert a TrueHD track to its "associated", lossy, DD5.1 track when those settings are enabled, even if you aren't actually using a feature from the disc that generates secondary audio.)


3) Play the "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray disc.


4) From the disc's Top Menu, go to Complete Program Menu > Audio Test Signals > Multi-Channel Levels & Balance. Note, you must use this specific test from this disc as other bass tests on this disc don't actual generate a distinct LFE channel.


5) This test first plays an LFE test tone, and then it pans around the room sending a test tone to the main speakers. It is encoded as a 5.1 TrueHD track. Use chapter back twice to restart the test. Use pop-up menu to exit the test.


6) While the test tones are panning around the room, adjust the main volume control on the Anthem to yield a 75dB SPL (Radio Shack SPL meter pointing straight up at ARC mic position #1, slow response, "C" weighting). In my setup that is a main volume setting of -5dB.


7) Now chapter back twice to restart the test and record the SPL generated by the LFE signal playing in the subwoofer.


If things are working correctly, that will be close to 75dB. It likely won't be exactly 75dB because the mix of frequencies used in the LFE test tone may not mesh precisely with what ARC has set up as the response curve of your subwoofer. In my system, the "correct" LFE response here is 78dB. I.e., doing this test with a player sending an HDMI Bitstream to the D2v for decoding in the D2v yields 78dB for the LFE test tone.


However, if the SPL from the LFE test tone measures 80dB or above, then your setup is exhibiting this bug. In my setup, I measure 83dB doing this test -- the "wrong" result.


------------------------------------------


If what's going on here is what I think is going on here, then there is an easy workaround until Anthem releases the fix. Use the "temporary" LFE adjustment feature of the Anthem available via the remote:


Press the Setup button and release it: The display will show Subwoofer and should also show 0dB. Do not change that value or you will also alter bass steered from the main speakers to your subwoofer, which you don't want to do. Instead, while "Subwoofer" is still on display, press and release the Setup button again. The display will now show "Low Frequency Effect". While that is displaying, use the Up/Down arrows to change that to -5dB. This will cut the LFE output by 5dB without altering the output of bass steered to the subwoofer from the main speakers.


NOTE: You must make the LFE adjustment this way and *NOT* in the Setup > Level Calibration menu.


This "temporary" Low Frequency Effect adjustment is remembered separately for each source, so you'll have to check/change it for each source that is sending HDMI LPCM with an LFE channel (e.g. 5.1, 6.1, or 7.1 input). This includes traditional DD5.1 and DTS as well as TrueHD and DTS-HD MA that are being decoded and sent as HDMI LPCM to the Anthem. I haven't played with these controls in a long time so I'm not sure whether this is also remembered separately for each TYPE of audio input from each source. Check it and see as you play various types of content. It doesn't hurt to leave this setting in effect when playing 2.0 HDMI LPCM content, as from an HDMI CD player, since there's no LFE channel in that content.


But you do NOT want this setting in effect when receiving 5.1, 6.1 (ex), or (for the D2v/AVM 50v) 7.1 bitstream content. This would include HDMI (or Optical/Coax Digital Audio) Bitstreams of traditional DD5.1 and DTS tracks. Bitstream input does not exhibit this bug and if you leave the LFE at -5dB you will end up with low LFE from those. So for example you don't want this -5dB trim applied to HDMI audio (or Optical/Coax Digital Audio) from your cable/satellite set top box. Nor do you want it if you have a player sending out Bitstream audio (as would be typical from any SD-DVD player).


Because this "temporary" setting is remembered separately for at least each source, it is easy to lose track of which ones you have set and which you have cleared. When it comes time to clear all these (after we get the fix), you can clear *ALL* of the "temporary" settings at the same time using the Setup menu as follows:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video at this point continue via the Front Panel dispay

3) Reload Saved User Settings


The "temporary" settings aren't saved in User or Installer Settings, so this procedure clears all of them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15925792
> 
> 
> I can't comment of the AVM50, but I ordered my D2v on January 26th (probably called in to Anthem from my dealer on the 27th) and I just got word late today that it is still at least 2 weeks away.
> 
> 
> I just missed the first crop of units as those who ordred them from my dealer on the 23rd of January have had them for a few weeks already.
> 
> 
> At least my dealer is courteous enough not to charge the credit card until the unit is at their shop and ready for me to have.
> 
> 
> Mike



I just checked and the backorder report posted by our Anthem distributor source is still the one dated Feb 17 that I previously detailed. We think that report means that orders placed before Feb 17 should ship from Anthem no later than Feb 27. With any luck, we'll soon have a a new report and we can see how that has changed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcljones* /forum/post/15924862
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I knew you must be testing the Oppo BDP-83 when you started dropping hints about an unnamed player. I'm glad to see that you are testing this along with the D2v since that is the combination that I've been planning to end up with for awhile now. I was not selected for the EAP (at least not the first 50), and the D2 to D2v upgrade is not available yet, so I'm waiting on both fronts. Please keep us posted.
> 
> 
> Buddy



I've been Beta testing the Oppo BDP-83 player since the Beta testing program began for it -- over 6 months ago now. Of course I've just now been able to use it with my new D2v.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Ok here are a couple of files for critique.




I also have an LFE issue, last night after restoring defaults and re running the sweeps everything looked good except a -9.0 dB on my sub in the speaker levels settings. I presumed at the time that I had my sub too hot. The SPL meter shows only 68 dB with the test tones. Listened to a DVD and the LFE seems weak. Anyone suggest a reason for this? I am using the public 2.0.1 ARC.


Thanks in advance.

Attachment 134937 

Attachment 134936


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/15926173
> 
> 
> Ok here are a couple of files for critique.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have an LFE issue, last night after restoring defaults and re running the sweeps everything looked good except a -9.0 dB on my sub in the speaker levels settings. I presumed at the time that I had my sub too hot. The SPL meter shows only 68 dB with the test tones. Listened to a DVD and the LFE seems weak. Anyone suggest a reason for this? I am using the public 2.0.1 ARC.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Attachment 134937
> 
> Attachment 134936



These curves look fine. I've really got only one critique: ARC has apparently decided your room has little or no "natural" Room Gain (the hump in the target curves near the crossovers). Based on your Measured curves that even looks correct -- i.e., you have a very "flat" room.


Most movie mixes assume you have a more normal room with some Room Gain.


You might want to try "forcing" a bit more Room Gain -- not too much. Set the value in the Targets window (leave the "force" box checked), accept that change, re-Calculate and re-Upload. No need to re-Measure. Try a Room Gain of 2.5dB as a start and see if you like the sound of it.


-----------------------------------------


There's nothing in your charts to indicate a bass problem. It ought to be sounding pretty good!


Make sure you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON set for each source device to enable ARC processing for each source.


ARC has chosen a fairly low crossover for your sub which may explain why the test tone is measuring low. It doesn't go all the way into the subsonics.


Make sure you didn't do anything in the Setup menu that might have overwritten the settings ARC Uploaded. If you are not certain, open your ARC results file in Advanced mode and Upload it again.


Try other sources to see if the bass problem is specific to your DVD player.

--Bob


----------



## ibg5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15893414
> 
> 
> i have a question regarding line conditioners and apc units. if 'you' want to shunt me to a different post, ok, but i'll ask here as i trust the knowledge base.
> 
> i have a monster line conditioner feeding six components, no amps, and only three are active at any one time. (d2; jvc projector; pioneer blu ray; arcam transport; sony dvd; direct tv dvr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> question relates to a ups unit, to be located downstream from the monster unit. i want the monster first in line for the 120v constant, plus the pure sine wave. i would output one plug to the ups, which would then provide power to the dvr; d2; and the projector.
> 
> all of this, as i live in fl, lightening cap of the known universe. plus brownouts, surges - i could go on.
> 
> my question is: is this a safe thing to do? are there issues i lack the knowledge to anticipate? _stan_ at _apc_ felt it would work, but, officially, the company says not to do it.
> 
> insights are requested.
> 
> i thank "you" in advance.
> 
> walt



I have PS Audio Premier Power Plant.

Results - magnificent. The sound at once has exchanged - became more volume. Dynamics has changed. Sub began to work more deeply.

The image became unequivocal "more purely" and, such sensation - as though Gamma has changed. Became more details.


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15926247
> 
> 
> These curves look fine. I've really got only one critique: ARC has apparently decided your room has little or no "natural" Room Gain (the hump in the target curves near the crossovers). Based on your Measured curves that even looks correct -- i.e., you have a very "flat" room.
> 
> 
> Most movie mixes assume you have a more normal room with some Room Gain.
> 
> 
> You might want to try "forcing" a bit more Room Gain -- not too much. Set the value in the Targets window (leave the "force" box checked), accept that change, re-Calculate and re-Upload. No need to re-Measure. Try a Room Gain of 2.5dB as a start and see if you like the sound of it.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> There's nothing in your charts to indicate a bass problem. It ought to be sounding pretty good!
> 
> 
> Make sure you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON set for each source device to enable ARC processing for each source.
> 
> 
> ARC has chosen a fairly low crossover for your sub which may explain why the test tone is measuring low. It doesn't go all the way into the subsonics.
> 
> 
> Make sure you didn't do anything in the Setup menu that might have overwritten the settings ARC Uploaded. If you are not certain, open your ARC results file in Advanced mode and Upload it again.
> 
> 
> Try other sources to see if the bass problem is specific to your DVD player.
> 
> --Bob



On target as usual, ARC is reporting a 0.87 room gain. Will try bumping that a bit and see what happens.


Watched a little of Quantum Solace for the first time tonight. I have an AT screen which I think helps; but had the sense of sitting in the scene more than any movie before. Me thinks it a bit sad the people that go out and spend a lot of money on displays/projectors and do not know how much of the experience they are missing by not having good audio. Guess it is a bit arrogant but I feel like I have a good sounding setup. Suits me anyway.


Thanks as always.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2v Video is Better than D2 Video!*


Well I've just come to a momentous conclusion.


In my setup, the video I'm getting from the D2v is better than the best video I was able to get from the D2.


The imaging is more natural -- a sense of transparency -- and colors have more punch as if the color contrast is better.


The thing is, I can't see any difference in the calibration charts to explain this!


So there is something more subtle going on.


---------------------------------------------------------


In my setup there are two major pieces of video processing going on. First, the Anthem is scaling all video to the "native" 1360x768p resolution of my plasma display. Second, I have the Anthem applying "Exponential Gamma Correction" in the Video Source Adjust > Output panel to make up for a low Gamma setting in the "fine" picture mode in my plasma.


What I think I am seeing is the benefits of the new 12-bit video processing path in the D2v, and possibly even some improved algorithms in the VXP chip. If I had to guess, I'd say the biggest difference is that the Gamma Correction processing is producing cleaner results due to the higher bit depth. The eye is really sensitive to correct Gamma, and the types of improvements I am seeing are consistent with what people typically report once Gamma has been properly corrected.


ETA: By the way, the input/output video levels and Gamma settings that worked best with my D2 *ALSO* work best with my D2v (using the "test" V2.02c firmware). No need to change anything.


---------------------------------------------------------


When playing Comcast content, there is another factor in play. I am using some Noise Reduction and countering it with a small amount of Detail Enhancement. These were controls I did not find particularly helpful in the D2 when I tried to use them to deal with some of the re-compression artifacts Comcast is foisting on customers in my market area.


In the D2v they help. I don't even think I've found the optimal settings yet and they STILL help. More of my SD channels are actually watchable now, and some of them are, dare I say it, even beginning to approach SD-DVD quality. And the settings are not screwing up my HD.


In addition, for the first time I am seeing Component video input from my Comcast box that is as good or better than HDMI video input. I suspect there has been an improvement in the way the D2v digitizes Component video input.


[Unfortunately there really is no help for what Comcast is doing to the gray scales. Rather than bitstarve the entire range of imaging (as DirecTV used to do before they launched some more satellites), Comcast appears to be concentrating on the near black and near white ends -- as if they were skipping steps in the digital ramp at each extreme. The result is loss of detail and false contouring near black and near white since the step size has gotten bigger. Comcast in my market area has some severe capacity issues on their cable and they started doing this about a year ago -- presumably concluding they could get away with this algorithm more readily than dealing with complaints about severe macro-blocking and pixelation if they did what DirecTV did.


When Verizon Fios-TV is available in my area (should happen later this year) I'll be on it in a heartbeat.


I feel better now. I need to rant about Comcast now and again. Thank you for listening.]


--------------------------------------------------------


Meanwhile, back to the D2v...


I'm actually surprised.


I did not expect to see an improvement in video that has made this much difference!


I'm a happy camper!











Please note: I am using the "test" V2.02c firmware which fixes some nasty bugs in YCbCr gray scale levels found in the current "official" firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've done some listening now with the "temporary" LFE -5dB adjustment for HDMI LPCM input.


It seems to be working.


One pleasant surprise is that the extra extension of bass into the subsonics that we've found with "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 still seems to be there. Just better balanced.


I'll have to listen to more stuff to confirm this, but I think there's a reasonable chance that the good stuff we are getting with ARC V2.0.1.1 will not be lost when Anthem fixes this LFE level bug.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15926416
> 
> *D2v Video is Better than D2 Video!*
> 
> 
> Well I've just come to a momentous conclusion.
> 
> 
> In my setup, the video I'm getting from the D2v is better than the best video I was able to get from the D2.
> 
> 
> The imaging is more natural -- a sense of transparency -- and colors have more punch as if the color contrast is better.
> 
> 
> The thing is, I can't see any difference in the calibration charts to explain this!
> 
> 
> So there is something more subtle going on.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In my setup there are two major pieces of video processing going on. First, the Anthem is scaling all video to the "native" 1360x768p resolution of my plasma display. Second, I have the Anthem applying "Exponential Gamma Correction" in the Video Source Adjust > Output panel to make up for a low Gamma setting in the "fine" picture mode in my plasma.
> 
> 
> What I think I am seeing is the benefits of the new 12-bit video processing path in the D2v, and possibly even some improved algorithms in the VXP chip. If I had to guess, I'd say the biggest difference is that the Gamma Correction processing is producing cleaner results due to the higher bit depth. The eye is really sensitive to correct Gamma, and the types of improvements I am seeing are consistent with what people typically report once Gamma has been properly corrected.
> 
> 
> ETA: By the way, the input/output video levels and Gamma settings that worked best with my D2 *ALSO* work best with my D2v (using the "test" V2.02c firmware). No need to change anything.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> When playing Comcast content, there is another factor in play. I am using some Noise Reduction and countering it with a small amount of Detail Enhancement. These were controls I did not find particularly helpful in the D2 when I tried to use them to deal with some of the re-compression artifacts Comcast is foisting on customers in my market area.
> 
> 
> In the D2v they help. I don't even think I've found the optimal settings yet and they STILL help. More of my SD channels are actually watchable now, and some of them are, dare I say it, even beginning to approach SD-DVD quality. And the settings are not screwing up my HD.
> 
> 
> In addition, for the first time I am seeing Component video input from my Comcast box that is as good or better than HDMI video input. I suspect there has been an improvement in the way the D2v digitizes Component video input.
> 
> 
> [Unfortunately there really is no help for what Comcast is doing to the gray scales. Rather than bitstarve the entire range of imaging (as DirecTV used to do before they launched some more satellites), Comcast appears to be concentrating on the near black and near white ends -- as if they were skipping steps in the digital ramp at each extreme. The result is loss of detail and false contouring near black and near white since the step size has gotten bigger. Comcast in my market area has some severe capacity issues on their cable and they started doing this about a year ago -- presumably concluding they could get away with this algorithm more readily than dealing with complaints about severe macro-blocking and pixelation if they did what DirecTV did.
> 
> 
> When Verizon Fios-TV is available in my area (should happen later this year) I'll be on it in a heartbeat.
> 
> 
> I feel better now. I need to rant about Comcast now and again. Thank you for listening.]
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, back to the D2v...
> 
> 
> I'm actually surprised.
> 
> 
> I did not expect to see an improvement in video that has made this much difference!
> 
> 
> I'm a happy camper!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please note: I am using the "test" V2.02c firmware which fixes some nasty bugs in YCbCr gray scale levels found in the current "official" firmware.
> 
> --Bob



That's exactly what I was trying to say.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15926530
> 
> 
> That's exactly what I was trying to say.



See? You talked me into it!










--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15926533
> 
> 
> See? You talked me into it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Ok, no more happy D2v talk until I get my D1 upgraded! I have no VP and a scope scope setup that is running out of connections. I have been waiting a long time for the D2v upgrade to be offered. You fortunates that already have the D2v should be quiet unless you have enough for the whole class!


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/15925832
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. Wow that's a long wait. I better stop thinking about then or I'll drive myself crazy - it's only been a day




I haven't ordered my D2v yet, but I ordered some 18" DIY drivers back in october and they didn't come in until early Jan.... Now thats a wait...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" D2v/AVM50v Firmware Coming Today*


Nick tells me a new "test" version of the D2v and AVM 50v firmware will be up on the password protected download page by the end of the day. They are just waiting for the fix for the HDMI LPCM LFE level problem we've been discussing.


In addition to bug fixes, they've made some changes to the Video Source Adjust menu. Apparently just wording changes for clarity. One feature change is that the Scale Out > Zoom function has been removed, since it has such limited use and is the cause of many confused calls to tech support. As we've discussed many times in this thread, what people really should be using is the Crop Input settings instead. See the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling links collected in the first post of this thread.


[Zoom was never intended for use during normal viewing. It is a test setting that was really only useful during display setup. It zooms prior to scaling so turning on Zoom guaranteed that you would get poor quality video.]


--------------------------------------


I've asked Nick to clarify whether the LFE level problem might also affect D2 or AVM 50 users (V1.33 firmware) going to "test" ARC V2.0.1.1.


--------------------------------------


I expect this new, "test" D2v/AVM50v firmware will also fix the remaining HDMI YCbCr gray scale issue that arises if you have Video Source Adjust > Input Color Space > Extended RGB checked.


I know this new firmware includes new VXP code from Sigma Designs. One thing we've been waiting for is a VXP change that enables proper 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 frame rate conversion for film-based source content. Anthem had it working for one HDMI output, and the anticipated VXP fix would make it work for both HDMI outputs. Nick didn't mention this, so we'll have to check the release notes and/or just try it.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

tried the -5 LFE reduction for my ps3 and the diff was not as dramatic as I thought it would be. The deep extension is still there and I got a very weird experience from the Max Payne BD. At about 1 hr. Max comes out of an executives office and faces the Swat force. There is a very deep extension as the Swat officer shoots the exective and and as he falls Max's face appears. This with the +5 LFE was very deep. I changed to -5 and I got a couple of pops from my sub, Servo 15 which had not occured on several other passes of this scene. Later on in the movie there is a warehouse scene in which Max bends backwards and shoots a shot gun. This also produces the same effect I got in the earlier scene. Trying it a third time there wasn't a pop.









John


----------



## lk100

Bob,


I'm new to this forum, but have been scanning through this thread for information. I currently have an AVM50 with arc and have a D2v on order. Is there a way to get the settings from the AVM50 to the D2V besides manual entry. Also, when the D2V is first turned on, will there be output on all HDMI ports for updating the settings?


Lee


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15929325
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> tried the -5 LFE reduction for my ps3 and the diff was not as dramatic as I thought it would be. The deep extension is still there and I got a very weird experience from the Max Payne BD. At about 1 hr. Max comes out of an executives office and faces the Swat force. There is a very deep extension as the Swat officer shoots the exective and and as he falls Max's face appears. This with the +5 LFE was very deep. I changed to -5 and I got a couple of pops from my sub, Servo 15 which had not occured on several other passes of this scene. Later on in the movie there is a warehouse scene in which Max bends backwards and shoots a shot gun. This also produces the same effect I got in the earlier scene. Trying it a third time there wasn't a pop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I suspect there's more going on here than just a simple error in the level trim setting. I.e., the -5dB LFE workaround is not a complete fix, but rather more in the line of a band-aid.


With any luck the fix coming in this afternoon's "test" firmware will give us the right stuff without extraneous pops or the like.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100* /forum/post/15929353
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I'm new to this forum, but have been scanning through this thread for information. I currently have an AVM50 with arc and have a D2v on order. Is there a way to get the settings from the AVM50 to the D2V besides manual entry. Also, when the D2V is first turned on, will there be output on all HDMI ports for updating the settings?
> 
> 
> Lee



Lee,

First of all, welcome to AVS, and welcome to The Cool Kids Thread!


The factory defaults for the D2v include HDMI output, but the output resolution and data format may or may not be what your display requires.


You can always use the Front Panel display to access the Setup menu and make the necessary Video Output changes to get your display going.


------------------------------------------------------


On the CD that comes with your new ARC install kit for the D2v, you will find a Utilities folder. In there you will find the Settings Backup utility. This is a Windows application that lets you save and restore your Setup menu settings via a PC file. You can use that to transfer your Setup menu settings from the AVM 50 to your new D2v. It is trivially easy to use once you have the serial connection hooked up between your Windows computer and the Anthem.


You will also find the Live Video Settings Editor utility. This, too is a Windows application. It is used to do on-the-fly settings adjustments of your Video Source Adjust menu settings from the computer (i.e., while watching content). It can also be used to save and restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file. This one is only slightly more difficult to use:


While attached to the old Anthem:


1) "Get" the current Video Source Adjust menu settings from the Anthem, then


2) "Save" them to a PC file.


While attached to the new Anthem:


1) File Menu > "Open" your saved file of settings, then


2) "Load" the settings to the Video Source Adjust menu in the Anthem.


ETA: Edited to correct that Lee is moving from an AVM 50 to the D2v, not from an AVM 50v. Lee, if you want to get ready ahead of time, you can download the ARC V2.0.1 install folder from Anthem's public download page. In there you will find the two utilities mentioned above. Note: You will need to redo your ARC setup for the D2v. Your old ARC results won't work since they are specific to the serial number of your old AVM 50. You will need to install ARC V2.0.1 on your Windows PC and do new Measurements using the ARC mic that comes with your D2v. If you already have ARC V2.0.1 installed you will still need to copy the two licensing/calibration files from your D2v ARC install CD into the Anthem folder in Windows > Program Files so that you have the license to use ARC with your new D2v and also the correct mic calibration file for the ARC mic that comes with your new D2v.

--Bob


----------



## lk100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15929467
> 
> 
> Lee,
> 
> First of all, welcome to AVS, and welcome to The Cool Kids Thread!
> 
> 
> The factory defaults for the D2v include HDMI output, but the output resolution and data format may or may not be what your display requires.
> 
> 
> You can always use the Front Panel display to access the Setup menu and make the necessary Video Output changes to get your display going.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> On the CD that comes with your new ARC install kit for the D2v, you will find a Utilities folder. In there you will find the Settings Backup utility. This is a Windows application that lets you save and restore your Setup menu settings via a PC file. You can use that to transfer your Setup menu settings from the AVM 50 to your new D2v. It is trivially easy to use once you have the serial connection hooked up between your Windows computer and the Anthem.
> 
> 
> You will also find the Live Video Settings Editor utility. This, too is a Windows application. It is used to do on-the-fly settings adjustments of your Video Source Adjust menu settings from the computer (i.e., while watching content). It can also be used to save and restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file. This one is only slightly more difficult to use:
> 
> 
> While attached to the old Anthem:
> 
> 
> 1) "Get" the current Video Source Adjust menu settings from the Anthem, then
> 
> 
> 2) "Save" them to a PC file.
> 
> 
> While attached to the new Anthem:
> 
> 
> 1) File Menu > "Open" your saved file of settings, then
> 
> 
> 2) Load the settings to the Video Source Adjust menu in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> ETA: Edited to correct that Lee is moving from an AVM 50 to the D2v, not from an AVM 50v. Lee, if you want to get ready ahead of time, you can download the ARC V2.0.1 install folder from Anthem's public download page. In there you will find the two utilities mentioned above. Note: You will need to redo your ARC setup for the D2v. Your old ARC results won't work since they are specific to the serial number of your old AVM 50. You will need to install ARC V2.0.1 on your Windows PC and do new Measurements using the ARC mic that comes with your D2v. If you already have ARC V2.0.1 installed you will still need to copy the two licensing/calibration files from your D2v ARC install CD into the Anthem folder in Windows > Program Files so that you have the license to use ARC with your new D2v and also the correct mic calibration file for the ARC mic that comes with your new D2v.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, That makes me feel better about the conversion. The dealer originally set up my AVM50 and then later I installed the arc board and did the necessary firmware updates, but I don't visit the menus all that often and would hate to write down all the settings.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick tells me the LFE level problem is in the new DSP code for the D2v and AVM 50v, so folks using "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 on the original D2 or AVM 50 should not be having this problem.


Nick also tells me there is one more minor change (not further described) pending for "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 before it can become "official". My guess is that it will be renamed as ARC V2.0.2 when that happens. Should be soon!

--Bob


----------



## jclem

I ran my first ARC test and it ran and uploaded successfully--(I used the 'standard' mode rather than 'advanced' since I'm a computer dummy). I tried to attach them here from my 'my documents' file but I get an error message saying "invalid file". Can someone help me out? Thanks


----------



## Flugel

I'm still waiting on my D2v "No handles" version.


Question: What is the minimum screen resolution required to run the Windows software that is used with the D2v and ARC-1?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Flugel* /forum/post/15929787
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting on my D2v "No handles" version.
> 
> 
> Question: What is the minimum screen resolution required to run the Windows software that is used with the D2v and ARC-1?



I don't know the answer but it is nothing exotic. If you can view the windows desktop then you can run Anthem's Windows applications.


You will need Windows XP or later. In particular, ARC setup needs Windows XP or later for proper handling of ARC's USB mic input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/15929748
> 
> 
> I ran my first ARC test and it ran and uploaded successfully--(I used the 'standard' mode rather than 'advanced' since I'm a computer dummy). I tried to attach them here from my 'my documents' file but I get an error message saying "invalid file". Can someone help me out? Thanks



Run the ARC application in "Advanced" mode. Then File Menu > Open your file of saved ARC results.


You will now see the charts of the results. Note that you have to scroll down to see all the charts. The View menu item lets you choose whether you are viewing the charts for your Movie or Music configuration.


Next go to Windows Help and find the keyboard combo to screen capture the contents of the currently active window into the clipboard. It's something like Alt-PrintScreen, but I use a Mac so I don't actually remember that.


Now what I do is capture a window full of charts into the clipboard and then paste it into Windows Paint (an accessory application bundled with Windows), and then File > Save As to a file on the desktop -- using the JPEG file format to keep the file size reasonable.


You need to do that twice -- once to capture the charts at the top and then after scrolling down to make the bottom charts visible you do it again. If you have a separate Move and Music configuration, that makes 4 picture files.


Finally, in ARC, click on Targets to bring up the Targets window and capture that one to a picture file as well.


So now you have up to 5 picture files on your desktop.


Next, type in your message to post those files here. In the area below the box where you type in the text you will find a "Manage Attachments" button. You use that to Upload your picture files to AVS -- they show up as links in your post. You can Upload 3 files and then it will give you the chance to Upload 2 more, so all 5 links will fit in one post.


You can use the Preview Post button to make sure all this is working before you actually Submit your post.


Your Uploaded picture files are actually saved here on AVS, so you don't need the files on your desktop any more after you post your message here and see that it all worked.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/15927363
> 
> 
> Ok, no more happy D2v talk until I get my D1 upgraded! I have no VP and a scope scope setup that is running out of connections. I have been waiting a long time for the D2v upgrade to be offered. You fortunates that already have the D2v should be quiet unless you have enough for the whole class!



I second that!


----------



## flavorguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15928996
> 
> *New "Test" D2v/AVM50v Firmware Coming Today*
> 
> 
> Nick tells me a new "test" version of the D2v and AVM 50v firmware will be up on the password protected download page by the end of the day. They are just waiting for the fix for the HDMI LPCM LFE level problem we've been discussing.
> 
> 
> In addition to bug fixes, they've made some changes to the Video Source Adjust menu. Apparently just wording changes for clarity. One feature change is that the Scale Out > Zoom function has been removed, since it has such limited use and is the cause of many confused calls to tech support. As we've discussed many times in this thread, what people really
> 
> 
> I know this new firmware includes new VXP code from Sigma Designs. One thing we've been waiting for is a VXP change that enables proper 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 frame rate conversion for film-based source content. Anthem had it working for one HDMI output, and the anticipated VXP fix would make it work for both HDMI outputs. Nick didn't mention this, so we'll have to check the release notes and/or just try it.
> 
> --Bob



Bob-


How about the component video switching that some of us ahve been experiencing - 480 i to 1080 p to 480 i "video freeze" when switching channels between SD and HD signals....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15930116
> 
> 
> Bob-
> 
> 
> How about the component video switching that some of us ahve been experiencing - 480 i to 1080 p to 480 i "video freeze" when switching channels between SD and HD signals....



My guess is that fix will be in there as well, but Nick didn't mention it.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

Bob, et al; couple of questions....


How is the heat on the new unit now, I have a closed front and open back console. I have found a couple posts about cooling fans such as this one. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post15634337 

Will this be an issue I need to worry about cooling

I noticed you are getting reading of about 93 degrees now with the D2v, starting to line up my runway approach...










Also, curious about the treble and bass controls, how effective are they - how much and what exactly is the D2v rolling off or boosting in this dept.



Making my way slowly through all the posts from the implementation of ARC and reading the manual to get more familiar...









Thank you....


----------



## jclem

graphs for evaluation.....THANKS..... Attachment 135021 

Attachment 135022


----------



## jclem

Here is the targets that you asked for: Attachment 135023


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/15930618
> 
> 
> graphs for evaluation.....THANKS..... Attachment 135021
> 
> Attachment 135022



You are in good shape. There are no serious problems.


Your Rear Surround speakers are a little weak in bass -- which is why ARC has set them at a higher "cutoff" frequency. ARC has corrected nicely for this, but it might be worth looking at the manual for your Rear Surrounds to see if there is a bass response adjustment you have not set properly. If you make a change in that, you will need to re-Measure.


Other than that, the only suggestion is that you raise the Max EQ Frequency target value to tell ARC it is OK to apply correction above the default 5KHz.


Open your existing ARC results file in Advanced mode, open the Targets window, change that value, accept the change (which dismisses the Targets window), and do a Calculation. If you like the way the new results curves are turning out, do an Upload. No need to re-Measure.


You can do a bunch of trial Calculations in almost no time. See how high you can raise Max EQ Frequency (the upper limit is 20KHz) before you start seeing wobbles show up in the green Calculated curve at lower frequencies. If necessary back off a bit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15930371
> 
> 
> Bob, et al; couple of questions....
> 
> 
> How is the heat on the new unit now, I have a closed front and open back console. I have found a couple posts about cooling fans such as this one. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post15634337
> 
> Will this be an issue I need to worry about cooling
> 
> I noticed you are getting reading of about 93 degrees now with the D2v, starting to line up my runway approach...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, curious about the treble and bass controls, how effective are they - how much and what exactly is the D2v rolling off or boosting in this dept.
> 
> 
> 
> Making my way slowly through all the posts from the implementation of ARC and reading the manual to get more familiar...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you....



I have my D2v in a cabinet closed in the front with a glass door and open in the rear (I removed the rear panel). I have it in a double height space and there is no other heat generator in that space.


And that works fine. It also worked fine with my old D2 which ran quite a bit hotter.


Get one of those remote sensing thermometers sold in cooking stores -- they look like a gun and often come with a laser pointer light so you know what you are aiming at. Use that to measure the inside wall and ceiling temperature of the cabinet space after the Anthem has been running for a while. If you are within, say, 10 degrees of ambient room temperature then the heat the Anthem is generating is making it out of that space properly. Otherwise you might need a ventilating fan.


The most important cabinet dimension is the free space ABOVE the Anthem.


------------------------------------


In all the time I've had my D2 and D2v I've never once used the Bass or Treble control. I don't recall seeing a spec of how they are implemented -- slope, etc.

--Bob


----------



## facke02

Warp,


My D2v is also in a closed cabinet/console and I just checked and it's barely warm. I think my ICEPower NHT amp is warmer...




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15930371
> 
> 
> Bob, et al; couple of questions....
> 
> 
> How is the heat on the new unit now, I have a closed front and open back console. I have found a couple posts about cooling fans such as this one. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post15634337
> 
> Will this be an issue I need to worry about cooling
> 
> I noticed you are getting reading of about 93 degrees now with the D2v, starting to line up my runway approach...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, curious about the treble and bass controls, how effective are they - how much and what exactly is the D2v rolling off or boosting in this dept.
> 
> 
> 
> Making my way slowly through all the posts from the implementation of ARC and reading the manual to get more familiar...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you....


----------



## Warpdrv

Thank you Gentlemen....


My Wyred4Sound 7 channel amp barely gets warm in there as well... The Rotel 1095 amp that it replaced required some serious cooling in that cabinet.... I hated those fans...










I aiming for a greener planet !!! hhehehhe


----------



## jclem

Excellent, Bob. Thanks for the input. I'll look into your other suggestions and will probably be posting again.


Your point about the max of 5 khz, I guess explains why the 'calculated' follows the 'measured' lines rather than the 'corrected'. I was worried about that. Thanks again


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15930900
> 
> 
> I aiming for a greener planet !!! hhehehhe



Well you can wave palm fronds for extra ventilation, but your arms will likely get tired....










--Bob


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ibg5* /forum/post/15926263
> 
> 
> I have PS Audio Premier Power Plant.
> 
> Results - magnificent. The sound at once has exchanged - became more volume. Dynamics has changed. Sub began to work more deeply.
> 
> The image became unequivocal "more purely" and, such sensation - as though Gamma has changed. Became more details.



thx for the info: i'll look into the unit tonight.

walt


----------



## Flugel

Bob - Exactly how are you using the software on your Mac? What version of Windows are you using? Dual Boot mode or Parallels or VMWare? What hardware adapter do you use to go to the serial cable?


----------



## spiderv6

My D2v is going up on the bench tomorrow and I'm opening her up for some minor

surgery - a new HDMI daughter card.


I'm quite used to opening up electronics but anything special to look out for when opening up the D2v?


----------



## yacht422

I had an unusual event yesterday. (1.33;2.01)

Pre 2.01, I had connected to the d2 a dvr;br;old dvd player etc. They all switched 'ok' with the usual hdmi handshake delays, slow, but, acceptable.

Yesterday was movie night for guests. So, for the first time post 2.01, I ran the old dvd player(it holds the cartoons we play first, then segue into the br movie - no waiting to unload/reload the br. etc.)

At any rate, the dvd player refused to stay online. The pic would "be there", and then a black screen [sound always ok]. When the black screen appeared, it never self resolved. I always needed to "do something".

i recycled dvd/br/drv, all to no avail. Finally, after turning the old dvd player on & off a few times, the pic finally became constant. [the dvd player is connected via rca composite, not hdmi]

When our guests arrived, I pushed the remote buttons, and all operated properly.[I note here that i never turned anything off after things ran properly - did not want a repeat of "the problem"]

This never happened prior to v2.01.

am i alone?

in the grand scheme of things, this is not a "biggie".

It was, however, a 15 minute inconvenience.

thoughts?

thx

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New D2V/AVM50V "Test" Firmware V2.03b Now Up on Password Protected Download Page!*


As expected, new "test" firmware, V2.03b, for the D2v and AVM 50v has just appeared on Anthem's password protected download page. Change notes for the V2.xx firmware release stream are as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.03b (beta):
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for LFE level bug.
> 
> 
> 2. Further fix for menu 5 test noises (manual).
> 
> 
> 3. New software for video processor and audio DSP chips add stability.
> 
> 
> 4. Zoom removed from video processing since cropping input is the better way to achieve zoom.
> 
> 
> 5. Various minor display changes for status and video processing.
> 
> 
> 
> VIDEO PROCESSOR SETTINGS WILL BE LOST when this version is installed unless v2.02b or later is now in the processor. If using v2.02a or prior, the settings can be saved and transferred using Live Video Settings Editor.
> 
> 
> Known issues:
> 
> 
> 1. 7.1 to 5.1 downmix not working correctly. A center rear speaker is shown in status when the bug is in effect.
> 
> 
> 2. Frame Lock not working properly - this will not be fixed as inverse telecine is expected to replace it.
> 
> 
> 3. Video adjustments - while adjusting Brightness, Contrast, or Gamma near-black levels change in a seemingly random fashion. This may not be a bug, since making a change affects the while range.
> 
> 
> 4. XA2 - pops while pausing or scanning, audio dropouts while playing.
> 
> 
> 5. HDMI audio output may not work with some displays. In some cases teh display may need to be powered on twice to get audio.
> 
> 
> 6. Playstation 3 sometimes does not connect.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.02c (beta):
> 
> 
> Bug fixes for:
> 
> 
> 1. "The Dark Night" BD on PS3 audio dropout at 1:20:07.
> 
> 
> 2. Level Calibration menu.
> 
> 
> 3. 7.1 to 5.1 downmix.
> 
> 
> 4. YCbCr black level / grayscale.
> 
> 
> 5. Various front panel display updates.
> 
> 
> 6. Deep color output.
> 
> 
> 7. Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD work up to 192 kHz.
> 
> 
> 8. PCM input over HDMI now supports up to 192 kHz with all common input configurations (2.0, 2.1, 5.1, 7.1 etc.)
> 
> 
> 9. Rears when 5.1 input is detected with PLIIx Movie applied (switching to None and back was the previous work-around to get sound from rears).
> 
> 
> 
> v2.02:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for audio dropouts with PCM input.
> 
> 
> 2. Fix for ARC test sweeps.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.00 D2v / v2.01 AVM 50v:
> 
> 
> Initial releases.



Note the known issues in V2.03b. Note that if your current firmware is V2.02a or older YOU WILL LOSE VIDEO SOURCE ADUST MENU SETTINGS during this install. Write down and re-enter them manually, or save and restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file using the Live Video Settings Editor (found in your ARC install kit). If your current firmware is V2.02b or later this is not an issue.


Note that although inverse telecine is mentioned (480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion for film-based content), there is no statement that it is actually working yet. We'll have to try it and see.


Note that there is no mention of the Component video 480i to anything else transition problem. We'll have to try that one too.


As always, "test" software may come with unexpected surprises, not necessarily pleasant. Only install "test" software if you are willing to deal with that. For example, you might have to roll back to your prior firmware. The install folder includes V2.02 as a fallback installer.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Flugel* /forum/post/15931259
> 
> 
> Bob - Exactly how are you using the software on your Mac? What version of Windows are you using? Dual Boot mode or Parallels or VMWare? What hardware adapter do you use to go to the serial cable?



MacBook laptop with 10.5.6 installed, BootCamp environment, with Windows XP Pro loaded. Latest versions. Keyspan USA-19HS USB to serial adapter.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15931402
> 
> 
> My D2v is going up on the bench tomorrow and I'm opening her up for some minor
> 
> surgery - a new HDMI daughter card.
> 
> 
> I'm quite used to opening up electronics but anything special to look out for when opening up the D2v?



Yes. Go to Radio Shack and get yourself an anti-static mat setup so that you don't accidentally static shock the parts you touch. This is a mat with a wire that you plug into the ground pin of a wall socket, and a strap that you put on your wrist with a wire between the mat and strap. Put the D2v on the mat, plug the mat into a ground, and wear the strap while working on the D2v.


When detaching the ribbon cables, note that some of them are the latching variety. Don't yank hard to free the cable, just push back on the plastic latch.


If it is like the D2, there are vertical plastic spacers between the video/HDMI board and the board underneath it. When removing and replacing the board be careful not to put much strain on the board underneath.


Be sure to use a screw driver that matches well with the screw heads on the chassis cover or you will strip them. And some of the TorX screws that attach the sockets of the video board to the back panel have nuts on the inside. Don't drop them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15931548
> 
> 
> I had an unusual event yesterday. (1.33;2.01)
> 
> Pre 2.01, I had connected to the d2 a dvr;br;old dvd player etc. They all switched 'ok' with the usual hdmi handshake delays, slow, but, acceptable.
> 
> Yesterday was movie night for guests. So, for the first time post 2.01, I ran the old dvd player(it holds the cartoons we play first, then segue into the br movie - no waiting to unload/reload the br. etc.)
> 
> At any rate, the dvd player refused to stay online. The pic would "be there", and then a black screen [sound always ok]. When the black screen appeared, it never self resolved. I always needed to "do something".
> 
> i recycled dvd/br/drv, all to no avail. Finally, after turning the old dvd player on & off a few times, the pic finally became constant. [the dvd player is connected via rca composite, not hdmi]
> 
> When our guests arrived, I pushed the remote buttons, and all operated properly.[I note here that i never turned anything off after things ran properly - did not want a repeat of "the problem"]
> 
> This never happened prior to v2.01.
> 
> am i alone?
> 
> in the grand scheme of things, this is not a "biggie".
> 
> It was, however, a 15 minute inconvenience.
> 
> thoughts?
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



Did you really mean RCA Composite (one cable) or Component (3 cables)?


I don't know of any problems with Component input on the D2 (V1.33 firmware). Check your Setup menu settings (Source Setup and Video Output) to make sure nothing has gotten changed in there. For example, check that the Component input is being sent to the scaler and that the video output configuration you have selected in that source setup is the one you intended to use. If you don't find anything you will likely need to give Anthem tech support a call.


For true Composite video input, you will probably have to contact Anthem tech support. The video digitizer on your video board may be having trouble locking on to the input video signal.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

thanks bob. I'll take a few pics as I go for those that are interested.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If I understand the V2.03b release notes correctly, it looks like the Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock feature is going to be replaced by a new, inverse telecine feature.


Presumably there will need to be a setting to enable this.


My guess would be that when enabled, inverse telecine would see incoming 1080p/24 video and decide it had no work to do and would just output that 1080p/24 much as frame lock does today.


Meanwhile, if inverse telecine sees incoming 480i/60 or 1080i/60, and detects the film-mode "field repeat cadence" indicating that this is actually film-based content, it would jump into action and extract the original /24 stream from that content.


This actually strikes me as a really good implementation, but we'll have to see how it actually pans out in practice once the feature shows up.

--Bob


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Flugel* /forum/post/15929787
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting on my D2v "No handles" version.
> 
> 
> Question: What is the minimum screen resolution required to run the Windows software that is used with the D2v and ARC-1?



I use an old laptop with a physical serial port for dealing with my D2 and it runs in 800x600 mode with no issues.


Buddy


----------



## Flugel

Thanks, Bob. I've been trying to decide if I needed to buy a cheap PC netbook or use a Mac. It's nice to have options.


----------



## Flugel

bcljones - It's good to know that 800 x 600 works. In that screen mode, does it use the entire height of the screen?


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15931578
> 
> 
> MacBook laptop with 10.5.6 installed, BootCamp environment, with Windows XP Pro loaded. Latest versions. Keyspan USA-19HS USB to serial adapter.
> 
> --Bob



Of course Bob is a Mac user - even more evidence of Mac dominance over Windoze!


----------



## jayray

New firmware installed fine. Will test tomorrow.

John


----------



## shawnwalters

While I'm waiting for my avm50v to come in I'd like to make sure I have the right serial cable for it. Is something like this what I need?:

http://www.amazon.com/Keyspan-Speed-.../dp/B0000VYJRY 


I'll be using a MacBook Pro running windows xp under bootcamp.


Thanks,

Shawn


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/15932872
> 
> 
> While I'm waiting for my avm50v to come in I'd like to make sure I have the right serial cable for it. Is something like this what I need?:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Keyspan-Speed-.../dp/B0000VYJRY
> 
> 
> I'll be using a MacBook Pro running windows xp under bootcamp.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Shawn



Yes, that's the puppy! Plug that into your computer and run the serial cable (included with your new AVM 50v) from there to the back of the Anthem.


I leave my serial cable permanently connected to my Anthem, coiled up neatly out of the way when not in use.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters

Thanks Bob!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" D2v Firmware V2.03b, Preliminary Results*


The install on top of V2.02c went without a hitch. I restored Saved User Settings to get my configuration back. I also re-Uploaded my "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 results file. You are not supposed to have to do that, but it is one of the things I do.


---------------------------------------------------


The bad news is that the Component 480i to 1080i transition bug has not yet been fixed.


Any attempt to switch from Component 480i to anything else ends up with distorted video. You can cure this by switching to a different input and back and it will stay cured until the next time you go from Component 480i to anything else. I'll send off an email to Anthem.


The workaround remains to either set the device to send Component 1080i to the Anthem for everything, or be prepared to cycle inputs after changing away from 480i content.


The good news is that:


1) The HDMI LPCM LFE level problem has been fixed! If you had been using the "temporary" -5dB cut of LFE output, be sure to remove it. Verified with both the PS3 and the Oppo and with both TrueHD and DD5.1 tracks.


2) The HDMI YCbCr gray scale error that results if the Anthem is set to expect Extended RGB for any RGB video from the source (Video Source Adjust > Input Color Space > Extended RGB), has been fixed! This primarily affects PS3 users since the PS3 uses RGB for things like its XMB user interface and for games. It is safe to go back to using Extended RGB for that input in the Anthem. Pair this with the "RGB Full" (instead of Limited) setting in the PS3. Note that Blu-Ray and SD-DVD discs will still use YCbCr video.


3) The Video Source Adjust > Picture > Noise Reduction feature has been modified. It now includes separate slider controls for Block Noise reduction and for Mosquito Noise reduction. The install leaves both of those set to whatever value you had prior for the single Noise Reduction slider.


That's it for now...

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I had previously reported that since installing the "test" V2.02c firmware, I could no longer make a Get operation complete in Live Video Settings Editor. It would do serial transfers for the right amount of time to Get the Video Source Adjust menu settings from the Anthem, but then would just stop transmitting without ever completing the operation.


---------------------------------------


Well I decided to try it again prior to installing the new "test" V2.03b firmware -- and this time it WORKED!


I've no idea why.


It may be because I had all my HDMI inputs and outputs powered down in preparation for doing the firmware install.

--Bob


----------



## bcljones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Flugel* /forum/post/15932579
> 
> 
> bcljones - It's good to know that 800 x 600 works. In that screen mode, does it use the entire height of the screen?



I run it that way so that the graphs are larger. I don't remember if it is required though. I would think not.


Buddy


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*More D2v "Test" Firmware V2.03b Results!*


The problems I've been having with Component and with HDMI input from my Comcast box remain in V2.03b.


I'm simply going to quote the body of the email I just sent to Nick at Anthem:



> Quote:
> Hi Nick!
> 
> 
> In addition to the Component 480i to "anything else" transition bug I covered in my last email, the Component and HDMI input problems specific to my Comcast/Motorola DCH-3416 HD/DVR still continue with this firmware.
> 
> 
> First for Component:
> 
> 
> Set the Comcast to output Component 1080i for all channels.
> 
> 
> I have TV3 set to be "same as" TV1. In Video Source Adjust, TV1 is set for normal pillar box viewing with an Edges ON value of 6 selected.
> 
> 
> In Video Source Adjust, TV3 has a Custom Crop of 1440x810 and Edges OFF selected. There is also a value of 6 in the de-selected Edges ON line.
> 
> 
> Go to TV1 and select any SD channel. It will input as Component 1080i. It will look correct.
> 
> 
> Now select TV3 using the 3 key remote control shortcut.
> 
> 
> The result is that the Custom Crop is *NOT* applied. You can cure this by switching to a different input and back to TV3 (using the 3 key shortcut if necessary) or you can also cure it by going into Video Source Adjust and selecting Edges ON! I.e., the Custom Crop gets applied the instant you select Edges ON. You can now go back to Edges OFF and the Custom Crop remains applied.
> 
> 
> With the Custom Crop properly applied in TV3 and with Edges OFF again selected, now go back to TV1, again by using the 3 key remote control shortcut.
> 
> 
> The result is that the imaging appears as if Edges OFF was selected in TV1 instead of the Edges ON value of 6 that is actually selected. Again you can cure this by going to a different input and then back to TV1 (using the 3 key remote shortcut if necessary). Or you can cure it by going into Video Source Adjust and selecting Edges Off, and then selecting Edges ON again.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> One very curious thing is that this problem does NOT occur if you are using HDMI 1080i YCbCr 4:4:4 input from the Comcast box!
> 
> 
> Set up everything as above except use HDMI. Set the Comcast to output HDMI 1080i YCbCr for all channels.
> 
> 
> Going between TV1 and TV3 now works just the way it is supposed to! The Custom Crop and Edges settings get correctly applied every time.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> But HDMI from the Comcast has its own peculiar problem:
> 
> 
> Set the Comcast to output HDMI 1080i YCbCr 4:4:4 for all channels.
> 
> 
> Using TV1 (as described above), go to any SD channel. Just to be sure things really are correct, now switch to a different input and then back to TV1.
> 
> 
> Note the black levels as represented by the pillar box bars around this SD image. If your black levels are set carefully, these bars should be just barely into black. There will be no hint of dithering pixels turned on in there.
> 
> 
> Now switch to an HD channel. It will fill the screen of course. NOTE: You are still using TV1. The input is still HDMI 1080i YCbCr 4:4:4.
> 
> 
> Now switch back to that SD channel. Almost every time, the black levels will now be a little bit too high! The error is roughly the equivalent of 2 steps of Video Source Adjust > Brightness.
> 
> 
> Sometimes it helps to bring up the Comcast Program Guide while on the HD channel, then dismiss it, and then go back to the SD channel. But merely switching back and forth from SD to HD will usually generate this error all by itself better than half the time.
> 
> 
> If your black levels are carefully adjusted so that the pillar box bars are just below black, you will see this error as the beginning of dithering video pixels in the pillar box bars. But you can also see it in the body of the image if you have a suitably revealing image being displayed.
> 
> 
> While this error is in effect, i..e., while you are on the SD channel with black levels too high, you can cure it by switching to a different input and back to TV1.
> 
> 
> But, and this is the kicker, you can ALSO cure it by going into Video Source Adjust and selecting Edges OFF! The instant you select Edges OFF the black levels go back to where they should be. You can then select Edges ON again and the black levels stay correct.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> To top it all off, if you try to recreate this failure using Component video input, you can't! Switching between SD and HD channels while using Component 1080i (for both) never alters the black levels!
> 
> 
> =================================================
> 
> 
> Both this Component error and this HDMI error look to me like something is inhibiting the proper loading of settings into the VXP when the video input stream is interrupted and then restarted. And making the Edges ON/OFF change, or switching inputs, kicks past whatever is inhibiting this so that the correct settings can get loaded again.
> 
> 
> Very weird. But if there is a systemic problem like this in loading the VXP settings, it probably affects other source devices as well. So I think this one is well worth the effort of tracking down.



--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Flugel* /forum/post/15931259
> 
> 
> Bob - Exactly how are you using the software on your Mac? What version of Windows are you using? Dual Boot mode or Parallels or VMWare? What hardware adapter do you use to go to the serial cable?



I am not Bob but am using an iMac (10.5.6) and Fusion running XP Pro. If you try this route the Keyspan did not work but the Belkin F5U409-CU does. I have only just gotten this to work, Bob has a much longer track record using the Dual Boot method.


----------



## muad'dib

Just sent the following message to Nick at anthem about the failed install..



"Just tried to install this version five times and all times failed.


I'm using Windows Vista home prem. With a usb keyspan to serial adaptor.


Each time the update fails with the following error message Video processor unified UC and OSD Flash Failed



Each time the update gets to Programming Video Processor UC flash it get's about half way on the status bar, then goes to the verify screen to about half way, then reloads the programmer, then re-does the Programming Video Processor UC flash thing again.



Does this about 5-6 times, then fails..



I then went back to 2.02c and worked first time perfect...

"



Not sure if anyone else has this issue, but like I stated, 2.02c works like a charm.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/15934330
> 
> 
> Just sent the following message to Nick at anthem about the failed install..
> 
> 
> 
> "Just tried to install this version five times and all times failed.
> 
> 
> I’m using Windows Vista home prem. With a usb keyspan to serial adaptor.
> 
> 
> Each time the update fails with the following error message “Video processor unified UC and OSD Flash Failed”
> 
> 
> 
> Each time the update gets to “Programming Video Processor UC flash” it get’s about half way on the status bar, then goes to the verify screen to about half way, then reloads the programmer, then re-does the “Programming Video Processor UC flash” thing again.
> 
> 
> 
> Does this about 5-6 times, then fails..
> 
> 
> 
> I then went back to 2.02c and worked first time perfect...
> 
> "
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if anyone else has this issue, but like I stated, 2.02c works like a charm.



Double check that you have no powered HDMI connections from either source devices or displays during the firmware install.


The most common reason for the Video Processor update to fail is that something was happening on an HDMI connection at the wrong time.


Remember that many HDMI devices, including most of the newer ones, actually have their HDMI sockets powered even though the device is turned off -- for HDMI "CEC" remote control functionality, etc.


My recommendation, rather than pulling the HDMI plugs, is that you disconnect everything from wall power except for the Anthem and the computer you are using to do the install.


----------------------------------


In addition, remember that you have to do a Reload Factory Defaults prior to the firmware install.


The install MIGHT still work if you fail to do one or both of these, but you really need to be diligent about doing both of them for every install attempt.


-----------------------------------


Finally, although rare, it can happen that you get a bad download. When you get into a situation like this, it doesn't hurt to download a fresh copy and try again with that one.


If all else fails, you may need to use the Flash Eraser utility to reset all the programmable parts and put them all in the state to accept a new install.

--Bob


----------



## zr123

Hi Bob,


Not sure if you can help me out here, but we just had our entire HT system installed today and seem to be having some issues with the LS and RS speakers. There's some fairly loud buzzing coming out of the speakers as soon as the AVM 50v and QSC 1400 amps are powered on. The buzzing doesn't come through any of the other speakers and all the speaker runs are basically zapped together (and are now) behind the drywall (pre-wired). I'd think that if it was a cable issue, or they're run too close to any electricals (which I'm 99% sure they're not), that all of them would have the same buzzing. We even tried to swap around the amps to see if it was maybe the QSC 1400s, but nope. Regardless of which amp it was put through, the buzzing still came through.


Now my memory isn't as sharp as I'd like it to be, but do you know if there was an issue with either the D2v or AVM 50v @ launch? Is there a firmware update that takes care of this? The unit itself arrived at our dealer about 10 days ago, and I believe the firmware currently on it is 2.00(?).


Sorry if my post isn't 100% clear... it's been a super long (but exciting!) day.


Thanks again


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15934563
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Not sure if you can help me out here, but we just had our entire HT system installed today and seem to be having some issues with the LS and RS speakers. There's some fairly loud buzzing coming out of the speakers as soon as the AVM 50v and QSC 1400 amps are powered on. The buzzing doesn't come through any of the other speakers and all the speaker runs are basically zapped together (and are now) behind the drywall (pre-wired). I'd think that if it was a cable issue, or they're run too close to any electricals (which I'm 99% sure they're not), that all of them would have the same buzzing. We even tried to swap around the amps to see if it was maybe the QSC 1400s, but nope. Regardless of which amp it was put through, the buzzing still came through.
> 
> 
> Now my memory isn't as sharp as I'd like it to be, but do you know if there was an issue with either the D2v or AVM 50v @ launch? Is there a firmware update that takes care of this? The unit itself arrived at our dealer about 10 days ago, and I believe the firmware currently on it is 2.00(?).
> 
> 
> Sorry if my post isn't 100% clear... it's been a super long (but exciting!) day.
> 
> 
> Thanks again



Yes. It sounds similar enough to other reports that this may very well be one of the DSP (audio) bugs in the initial firmware.


Anthem tech support can get you access to the latest "test" firmware on the password protected download page -- V2.03b.


I don't know of any downside risk to going to that "test" firmware, and I think it may solve your problem.


Note that going from the initial firmware to that "test" version will lose any settings you have made in the Video Source Adjust menu. If you've actually gotten as far as making a bunch of settings in there, you can use the Live Video Settings Editor Windows application (found in the Utilities folder of your ARC install kit) to save and restore the Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

bob: yes, composite - one line each, left;right;sound.

the point i was making was this did not occur prior to V2.01.

Again, nothing to get one's knickers in a bind, i was interested in finding others with, perhaps, the same issue.

Seems not, which is a good thing.

again, my appreciation.

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/15935028
> 
> 
> bob: yes, composite - one line each, left;right;sound.
> 
> the point i was making was this did not occur prior to V2.01.
> 
> Again, nothing to get one's knickers in a bind, i was interested in finding others with, perhaps, the same issue.
> 
> Seems not, which is a good thing.
> 
> again, my appreciation.
> 
> walt



There's not much call for Composite video except for device user interface viewing from some devices. If you are really watching DVDs that way, you ought to look into getting one of the inexpensive in-line converters that turn composite into S-video.


The advantage of that is that the Anthem will actually process and scale S-video whereas Composite is only supported as unprocessed pass-through.

--Bob


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15934664
> 
> 
> Yes. It sounds similar enough to other reports that this may very well be one of the DSP (audio) bugs in the initial firmware.
> 
> 
> Anthem tech support can get you access to the latest "test" firmware on the password protected download page -- V2.03b.
> 
> 
> I don't know of any downside risk to going to that "test" firmware, and I think it may solve your problem.
> 
> 
> Note that going from the initial firmware to that "test" version will lose any settings you have made in the Video Source Adjust menu. If you've actually gotten as far as making a bunch of settings in there, you can use the Live Video Settings Editor Windows application (found in the Utilities folder of your ARC install kit) to save and restore the Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob!


My next question was going to be re: the video settings, but you've answered that for me as well!


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


What's the incidence of all these new versions of ARC on the plain old D2?

Are we to try them?


Thanks


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15929685
> 
> 
> Nick tells me the LFE level problem is in the new DSP code for the D2v and AVM 50v, so folks using "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 on the original D2 or AVM 50 should not be having this problem.
> 
> 
> Nick also tells me there is one more minor change (not further described) pending for "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 before it can become "official". My guess is that it will be renamed as ARC V2.0.2 when that happens. Should be soon!
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for checking this out for those of us still using, and planning to continue to use, a D2.

This is good news, since I was really enjoying the LFE in ARC 2.0.1.1.

Is there an Oppo bdp-83 thread here where I can get some questions answered, or are all you beta's still sworn to secrecy?









Tom


----------



## zr123

Hello,


If someone has the user/pass for Anthem's password protected page and wouldn't mind PMing it to me, please, please, pleaseeeee to do







.


We have our ISF calibrator on the way and would like to also run the update for the AVM 50v.


Thanks!


----------



## AbMagFab

While I'm waiting for my D2v to upgrade firmware, anyone have some VP settings they'd like to share? I'm not sure yet what impact all the settings have, and I'd be curious what other people use.


Specifically:

- HD Video/Film - 1080i/720p

- SD Video/Film - 480i

- BD Video/Film - 1080p/24


If they are all different, I'll likely program them into my remote and have one button toggle between the three settings.


Thanks!

-Mark


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I have downloaded V2.03B and everything went well. When I went to upload video settings the pop up come up that says uploading and after a minute or so goes away without any confirmation of completing.


When I tried the "Get" button the pop up just froze there until I aborted some 5 minutes later. This happened with V2.02C also. It worked fine with V2.02.


Any ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/15936535
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> What's the incidence of all these new versions of ARC on the plain old D2?
> 
> Are we to try them?
> 
> 
> Thanks



The "official" ARC version -- for ALL Anthems that support ARC -- remains V2.0.1. As always, I recommend all owners upgrade to each new "official" version as it comes out.


The "test" version of ARC at the moment is V2.0.1.1. It appears to be doing good things, with no down-side that I've detected, but we know there is at least one more change coming before it will go "official". So if you have access to the password protected download page it's really up to you whether you want to try that now or just wait for it to go "official". The "official" version will likely be named something like V2.0.2.


----------------------------------------------


The situation with the D2v and AVM 50v firmware is a little different.


There are some serious sound and video quality issues in the original firmware (V2.00 and V2.02) that shipped from the factory. I'm hoping Anthem makes a new "official" release soon, but if you have access to the password protected download page, I think you should seriously consider trying the latest "test" version, which is V2.03b. Read the release notes posted above, and note in particular that there are still some significant known bugs in V2.03b.


Folks with the original D2 and AVM 50 hardware should be on the "official" V1.33 firmware. There is no "test" version currently up for those.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15937493
> 
> 
> I have downloaded V2.03B and everything went well. When I went to upload video settings the pop up come up that says uploading and after a minute or so goes away without any confirmation of completing.
> 
> 
> When I tried the "Get" button the pop up just froze there until I aborted some 5 minutes later. This happened with V2.02C also. It worked fine with V2.02.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



I ran into the same issue after installing firmware V2.02c (and reported to Anthem).


Prior to installing V2.03b I tried it again and it worked. It may just be random, or it may be due to the fact that I had powered off all my HDMI sources and display in preparation for the firmware install.


So try this: Power off the Anthem and the computer. Remove wall power from your HDMI sources and display(s). Power up the Anthem and boot the computer. Try LVSE again.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15936748
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking this out for those of us still using, and planning to continue to use, a D2.
> 
> This is good news, since I was really enjoying the LFE in ARC 2.0.1.1.
> 
> Is there an Oppo bdp-83 thread here where I can get some questions answered, or are all you beta's still sworn to secrecy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



There is an "Early Adopter Program" (EAP) owner's thread that's in something of a frenzy right now over in the Blu-Ray Players forum.


EAP owners and Beta testers are allowed to discuss details about the EAP units. The first EAP owners took delivery today.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15937157
> 
> 
> While I'm waiting for my D2v to upgrade firmware, anyone have some VP settings they'd like to share? I'm not sure yet what impact all the settings have, and I'd be curious what other people use.
> 
> 
> Specifically:
> 
> - HD Video/Film - 1080i/720p
> 
> - SD Video/Film - 480i
> 
> - BD Video/Film - 1080p/24
> 
> 
> If they are all different, I'll likely program them into my remote and have one button toggle between the three settings.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Mark



You'll have to play around a bit to discover your own preferences. However here are some guidelines:


1) Leave CUE (Color Upsampling Error correction) OFF for all sources to start. Only disc players might need this, and better disc players already do it themselves. If you do it in the Anthem when it isn't needed it will blur/soften the image.


2) Leave Film Mode in Auto for all sources. Very rarely you may need to turn Film Mode off for poorly made SD-DVD discs.


3) Leave the Motion Threshold setting at the factory default of 4. This affects how motion adaptive de-interlacing works. Again, the only time you are ever likely to even want to play with this is with poorly made SD-DVD discs.


4) Leave Input Color Space at the factory default combo of Auto and Studio RGB to begin.


5) For Crop Input and Scale Out settings see the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling links collected in the first post of this thread


6) For Output, leave Gamma Correction off to begin

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15937493
> 
> 
> I have downloaded V2.03B and everything went well. When I went to upload video settings the pop up come up that says uploading and after a minute or so goes away without any confirmation of completing.
> 
> 
> When I tried the "Get" button the pop up just froze there until I aborted some 5 minutes later. This happened with V2.02C also. It worked fine with V2.02.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



Oh, by the way, the Load operation in LVSE doesn't bring up any confirmation when it finishes uploading settings into the Video Source Adjust menu. It just dismisses the "please wait" box.


You can look in the Video Source Adjust menu itself for each source input to verify whether the Load actually worked.

--Bob


----------



## akopperl

How do you use the Live Video Settings Editor? I just installed v2.03b. Prior to installing, I ran Live Video Settings Editor and chose to Save the file. I selected a directory and a file was saved. I'm assuming you do it once - not separately for each input.


After I completed the install of 2.03b, I ran Live Video Settings Editor and selected Load - a message appeared on the screen stating that it was loading - but I never chose a file. How would it know where to find the file that I previously saved?


Thanks


----------



## jayray

With firmware 2.03b and ARC 2.01.1 I am still getting thumping from sub when paused, fast forwarding but not when playing. Also there is a high freq buzzing as well. Max Payne BD still causes my sub to pop at very low freq. No other BD can cause this even at low freq. Sound levels are higher than before.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15938093
> 
> 
> With firmware 2.03b and ARC 2.01.1 I am still getting thumping from sub when paused, fast forwarding but not when playing. Also there is a high freq buzzing as well. Max Payne BD still causes my sub to pop at very low freq. No other BD can cause this even at low freq. Sound levels are higher than before.
> 
> John



I wonder whether we need to redo the ARC Measurements for V2.03b? I, too, noticed the higher sound levels.


The Max Payne BD bass issue may be in the content. It wouldn't be the first time a disc got released with some really low frequency garbage in the LFE channel. Does it always happen at the same time codes?


I haven't noticed any bass issues when paused with either the PS3 or the Oppo BDP-83.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/15938083
> 
> 
> How do you use the Live Video Settings Editor? I just installed v2.03b. Prior to installing, I ran Live Video Settings Editor and chose to Save the file. I selected a directory and a file was saved. I'm assuming you do it once - not separately for each input.
> 
> 
> After I completed the install of 2.03b, I ran Live Video Settings Editor and selected Load - a message appeared on the screen stating that it was loading - but I never chose a file. How would it know where to find the file that I previously saved?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Connect via the serial cable, power up the Anthem, run LVSE, then:


To save settings to a PC file:

1) "Get" the current Video Source Adjust menu settings from the Anthem

2) "Save" to a file on the PC


To load saved settings into the Anthem:

1) File menu > "Open" your file of saved settings

2) "Load" the settings into your Anthem's Video Source Adjust menu


These operations save and restore the entire contents of the Video Source Adjust menu -- all sources.


The "Load" operation is also used to upload new Custom Video Output Timings and Custom Gamma Correction Curves that you might create in LVSE.


Any other changes you make to the currently displayed, individual settings in LVSE after a Get will be immediately duplicated in the Video Source Adjust menu in your Anthem as well (no need to "Load"). Thus you can use LVSE to make "live" changes to your Video Source Adjust settings while viewing content. This is useful during setup and calibration.


CAUTION: In the past I've run into somewhat rare cases where a "Get" or "Load" doesn't accurately transmit all the settings. So after doing a Get or Load check the results in LVSE or in the Video Source Adjust menu respectively. If you spot a problem, redoing the Get or Load will usually be all that's needed to fix it. In particularly, poke around and double check the results of the Get in LVSE before Saving your data to a PC file so that you feel comfortable what you are saving is a good set of data.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15938125
> 
> 
> I wonder whether we need to redo the ARC Measurements for V2.03b? I, too, noticed the higher sound levels.
> 
> 
> The Max Payne BD bass issue may be in the content. It wouldn't be the first time a disc got released with some really low frequency garbage in the LFE channel. Does it always happen at the same time codes?
> 
> 
> I haven't noticed any bass issues when paused with either the PS3 or the Oppo BDP-83.
> 
> --Bob



I thought the same thing about remeasuring. Will do that tomorrow. As for the Hddvd thumping, I wonder if anyone else has this issue, it would be good to know. Will email Nick, he thought new firmware might solve this. I played around with my ARC settings before and just did an upload of my last measurement as is, with not changes except for the 20K freq. range and I didn't get the popping from my sub with Max Payne. After new measurments tomorrow I will test it again. That disc has some very low freq. and its volume levels are much higher than other discs. Oh, and yes the low freq. pop happened at the same time.

John


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15937664
> 
> 
> I ran into the same issue after installing firmware V2.02c (and reported to Anthem).
> 
> 
> Prior to installing V2.03b I tried it again and it worked. It may just be random, or it may be due to the fact that I had powered off all my HDMI sources and display in preparation for the firmware install.
> 
> 
> So try this: Power off the Anthem and the computer. Remove wall power from your HDMI sources and display(s). Power up the Anthem and boot the computer. Try LVSE again.
> 
> --Bob



I did this and this is an issue I will send Nick a message.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

In addition, and I'm not trying to influence you Bob, I think ARC V2.01 sounds significantly better than 2.01.01.


I also remeasured with each install of software of both ARC & D2v updates.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15938712
> 
> 
> In addition, and I'm not trying to influence you Bob, I think ARC V2.01 sounds significantly better than 2.01.01.
> 
> 
> I also remeasured with each install of software of both ARC & D2v updates.



Well, that's why they call it "test" software!










Do you see anything in the ARC charts that might correspond to this difference between ARC V2.0.1 and ARC V2.0.1.1?


The HDMI LPCM LFE level bug (prior to D2v V2.03b firmware) will also bias against ARC V2.0.1.1 more than ARC V2.0.1 due to the apparent greater subsonic bass extension of the "test" ARC.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15938712
> 
> 
> In addition, and I'm not trying to influence you Bob, I think ARC V2.01 sounds significantly better than 2.01.01.
> 
> 
> I also remeasured with each install of software of both ARC & D2v updates.




After listening to both versions, I have to agree that 2.01 sounds better on my system.


Seems more alive, more dynamic..










Eitherway, all sounds good..


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15938616
> 
> 
> I thought the same thing about remeasuring. Will do that tomorrow. As for the Hddvd thumping, I wonder if anyone else has this issue, it would be good to know. Will email Nick, he thought new firmware might solve this. I played around with my ARC settings before and just did an upload of my last measurement as is, with not changes except for the 20K freq. range and I didn't get the popping from my sub with Max Payne. After new measurments tomorrow I will test it again. That disc has some very low freq. and its volume levels are much higher than other discs. Oh, and yes the low freq. pop happened at the same time.
> 
> John



I just finished watching Max Payne, and I didn't have any popping from my sub. I have the D2 V1.33 with test software for ARC V2.0.1.1 which sound fantastic on my system. That's a very good movie to test the performance of your subwoofer. I must say that my Velodyne stood up to the challenges without any problems.


----------



## akopperl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15938159
> 
> 
> Connect via the serial cable, power up the Anthem, run LVSE, then:
> 
> 
> To save settings to a PC file:
> 
> 1) "Get" the current Video Source Adjust menu settings from the Anthem
> 
> 2) "Save" to a file on the PC
> 
> 
> To load saved settings into the Anthem:
> 
> 1) File menu > "Open" your file of saved settings
> 
> 2) "Load" the settings into your Anthem's Video Source Adjust menu



Thank you for the explanation.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Watching "Blade Runner" Blu-Ray (disc 1 of the 5 disc set) this evening. This is a disc I'm quite familiar with.


I'm using the Oppo BDP-83, and letting it decode the 5.1 TrueHD track to HDMI LPCM.


I've got my "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 results loaded into D2v "test" firmware V2.03b. These ARC results were Measured when I still had V2.02c loaded.


------------------------------------


Now that the HDMI LPCM LFE input level bug has been fixed (V2.03b firmware), I'm definitely of the opinion that ARC V2.0.1.1 is superior to the best result I had previously with ARC V2.0.1. The big difference is in bass extension into the subsonics. Both versions sounded equally good in the high frequencies to me, and in naturalness through the mid-range.


I'm not hearing any new audio problems due to the V2.03b firmware.


The big audio fix I still need is to get the D2v doing the right thing when it has to down-mix 7.1 input tracks for my 5.1 speaker system (still a "known issue" in V2.03b).


-----------------------------------


Earlier this evening I did some critical tests comparing DD5.1 tracks as decoded in the Oppo, in the PS3 and in the D2v.


I couldn't spot any differences (again, now that the HDMI LPCM LFE input level bug has been fixed).


I'll try the same sort of test with TrueHD and DTS-HD MA some other time. I already know that the levels match for DD5.1 each way and TrueHD each way, but I haven't checked for quality issues in the TrueHD decoding and I'm saving DTS-HD MA for last because I think it the one most likely to have some nasties, and I want to get my technique down before I tackle it.


------------------------------------


The Oppo curently has some significant HDMI handshake problems with the D2v -- more than it had with the D2.


Oppo and Anthem are both working on this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

While doing some audio quality testing this evening, I was reminded of something that hasn't been mentioned here recently.


The Anthems offer Bass/Treble/Balance controls from the remote or front panel. The settings for these are part of the "temporary" settings -- not saved in User or Installer Settings.


It's actually quite a bit more complicated then just that as you can set adjustments separately for different speakers, and also for different zones. See Section 4.7 of the Manual.


The Anthem also offers a Bypass setting for the tone controls (press the "9" button on the remote) which is useful if you want to ignore any settings you might have for these, or simply want to bypass that processing portion of the audio signal path altogether.


My practice is to leave Bypass in effect.


What I was reminded of is that Bypass is ALSO a "temporary" setting. That means if you do a Reload Factory Defaults and then a Reload Saved User Settings, Bypass, like all the "temporary" settings, goes away, and the processing path through those controls is Enabled once again.


And since you have to do a Reload Factory Defaults each time you install new firmware, you also have to remember to reset Bypass again after each firmware install if that's what you want.

--Bob


----------



## gchuva

How much better is a D2v than a Lexicon MC-8B plus the SVS AS-EQ1, plus an Oppo hdmi switcher?


My Pioneer 504 plasma is 5 years old, I don't even think it takes 1080p. So I'm not sure if the Anthem's video processing is important to me right now (or should be).


I am thinking I can save a bunch of cash this way as a short term solution and upgrade my speakers instead of spending on the D2v. I may put around 20K into a new speaker/sub system, and am not anxious to spend another 7.5k on the processor. But I'd like some experts advice, as I have never heard the D2 before.


Thanks


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gchuva* /forum/post/15941229
> 
> 
> How much better is a D2v than a Lexicon MC-8B plus the SVS AS-EQ1, plus an Oppo hdmi switcher?
> 
> 
> My Pioneer 504 plasma is 5 years old, I don't even think it takes 1080p. So I'm not sure if the Anthem's video processing is important to me right now (or should be).
> 
> 
> I am thinking I can save a bunch of cash this way as a short term solution and upgrade my speakers instead of spending on the D2v. I may put around 20K into a new speaker/sub system, and am not anxious to spend another 7.5k on the processor. But I'd like some experts advice, as I have never heard the D2 before.
> 
> 
> Thanks



IMHO I do think that you will never (at least with what the market has to offer at the moment) even remotely approach what the D2 (and I am sure the D2v even more) can achieve with the ARC with any other equipment.

I had friends doing A/B tests in my HT with a Lexicon, Krell and Meridian pre-pro. It was laughable to see their faces.

I think that mostly the ARC makes the difference.

I also think that the gain of ARC vs. speakers improvement is hand-down for the ARC. The benefit is immediately noticeable.

But, I'd advise you to listen for yourself.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gchuva* /forum/post/15941229
> 
> 
> How much better is a D2v than a Lexicon MC-8B plus the SVS AS-EQ1, plus an Oppo hdmi switcher?
> 
> 
> My Pioneer 504 plasma is 5 years old, I don't even think it takes 1080p. So I'm not sure if the Anthem's video processing is important to me right now (or should be).
> 
> 
> I am thinking I can save a bunch of cash this way as a short term solution and upgrade my speakers instead of spending on the D2v. I may put around 20K into a new speaker/sub system, and am not anxious to spend another 7.5k on the processor. But I'd like some experts advice, as I have never heard the D2 before.
> 
> 
> Thanks



THREE YEARS ago - I had a Lexicon MC12B and DVDO VP-50 for Video

Processing. I sold both of them to buy a D2, which at that time was

brand new. In 08 - I added ARC to my D2.


IT IS THE BEST AV decision I ever made.










I am still happy with my D2 but if you are buying - TODAY










The D2v is the ONLY WAY TO GO.










There is no Comparison.

The Modicons show the improvements


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15941563
> 
> 
> THREE YEARS ago - I had a Lexicon MC12B and DVDO VP-50 for Video
> 
> Processing. I sold both of them to buy a D2, which at that time was
> 
> brand new. In 08 - I added ARC to my D2.
> 
> 
> IT IS THE BEST AV decision I ever made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am still happy with my D2 but if you are buying - TODAY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The D2v is the ONLY WAY TO GO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no Comparison.
> 
> The Modicons show the improvements



Amen


----------



## jayray

Just finished new measurements with *firmware 2.03b and ARC 2.01.1.* I have only listened to music so far and the gain has gone from 0 to 3.9. The bass is very heavy now and I don't know if this is caused by the increased gain. Nothing moved in the room so this is ARC changing things. My gains for music have yo-yo'd from 0 to 3.9 and in between for many measurements over the year. Movie remains at 3.9 although it once went down to 1.4, its lowest gain value. Will listen to movie sometime today.

John


----------



## benleeys

Bob,

Just curious. I was comparing video between HDMI and component from my Denon 5910 =>D2=>Display setup and noticed that the D2 Video Source Adj Info was indicating data input 4.2.2 for HDMI and 4.4.4 for component. Is there an explanation for this difference? Will it make a difference to the output (set to Auto for HDMI)? Thanks.

Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15942672
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Just curious. I was comparing video between HDMI and component from my Denon 5910 =>D2=>Display setup and noticed that the D2 Video Source Adj Info was indicating data input 4.2.2 for HDMI and 4.4.4 for component. Is there an explanation for this difference? Will it make a difference to the output (set to Auto for HDMI)? Thanks.
> 
> Ben



Your 5910 evidently offers both flavors of HDMI YCbCr output -- 4:4:4 and 4:2:2. There will likely be a setting in the 5910 for which you want it to output to the Anthem when using HDMI.


See the Technology and Terminology post links collected in the first post of this thread for an explanation of the different formats.


I suggest you start with HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4 from the 5910, and after you get a feel for how well that works for you, switch to HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 and see if it looks even better as explained in those linked posts. If you can't tell a difference, stick with 4:4:4.


Whatever you choose for input format, you don't have to make any changes in the Anthem's output format. The Anthem does any necessary conversion. There's no reason to try to match input and output formats. Choose whichever works best on each side.


------------------------------------


Similarly on the output side, you may find you have a display which can accept either HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4 or 4:2:2. Again start with 4:4:4, and then see if 4:2:2 looks even better.


4:2:2 provides a finer step size for gray scale and color ramps at the expense of only sending color data half as often across each line. It's kind of like "Deep Color" format for folks who don't have Deep Color devices.

--Bob


----------



## zr123

Hello...


Wondering if someone can help me setup the triggers from the AVM50v to the Panamorph.


I've setup the AVM50v to do the vertical stretch (from 1080 to 810) which works perfectly when the panamorph lens is over the projector's lens. But now how do I get it to toggle from 1080 to 810? And then when I choose to have it at 810, how do I tell the AVM50v to send a 12v trigger to my panamorph to slide over?


Also, is there anyway to have it setup so that it's a single button operation from the Anthem remote? That way, when we're ready to program everything to the universal remote, we can do the same.


Thanks!


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15942768
> 
> 
> Your 5910 evidently offers both flavors of HDMI YCbCr output -- 4:4:4 and 4:2:2. There will likely be a setting in the 5910 for which you want it to output to the Anthem when using HDMI.
> 
> 
> See the Technology and Terminology post links collected in the first post of this thread for an explanation of the different formats.
> 
> 
> I suggest you start with HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4 from the 5910, and after you get a feel for how well that works for you, switch to HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 and see if it looks even better as explained in those linked posts. If you can't tell a difference, stick with 4:4:4.
> 
> 
> Whatever you choose for input format, you don't have to make any changes in the Anthem's output format. The Anthem does any necessary conversion. There's no reason to try to match input and output formats. Choose whichever works best on each side.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Similarly on the output side, you may find you have a display which can accept either HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4 or 4:2:2. Again start with 4:4:4, and then see if 4:2:2 looks even better.
> 
> 
> 4:2:2 provides a finer step size for gray scale and color ramps at the expense of only sending color data half as often across each line. It's kind of like "Deep Color" format for folks who don't have Deep Color devices.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Thanks for your explanation. From what I can see in the Manual, the 5910 offers only either YCbCr or RGB output and no mention of 4:4:4/4:2:2. There is also another "HDMI Auto Format" which offers a choice of "Panel Res" or "Max Res". Maybe I should check out this setting and see what the D2 indicates. My CRT uses a moome card which accepts both types of YCbCr data automatically.


As for the D2 output format, I see that we do have a choice of 4:4:4 or 4:2:2.

Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15942867
> 
> 
> Hello...
> 
> 
> Wondering if someone can help me setup the triggers from the AVM50v to the Panamorph.
> 
> 
> I've setup the AVM50v to do the vertical stretch (from 1080 to 810) which works perfectly when the panamorph lens is over the projector's lens. But now how do I get it to toggle from 1080 to 810? And then when I choose to have it at 810, how do I tell the AVM50v to send a 12v trigger to my panamorph to slide over?
> 
> 
> Also, is there anyway to have it setup so that it's a single button operation from the Anthem remote? That way, when we're ready to program everything to the universal remote, we can do the same.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Set up two source input definitions, e.g., DVD1 and DVD2. Put your custom crop in Video Source Adjust for one of them (e.g., DVD2). Select that source when you want the custom crop in effect.


In the Setup menu for Triggers, go to the table for your chosen trigger and select that this trigger driving your lens activates only when you have chosen that source (e.g., DVD2) as the active input.


The buttons on the Anthem remote only offer single push access to the sources by cycling between the overlaid sources, e.g., DVD1 -> DVD2. But there are 3 key sequences that you can use to get to, say DVD2 directly. You could use those with the Anthem remote if you wish, but they are mostly useful for programming into a programmable remote. See Appendix A of the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15942930
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for your explanation. From what I can see in the Manual, the 5910 offers only either YCbCr or RGB output and no mention of 4:4:4/4:2:2. There is also another "HDMI Auto Format" which offers a choice of "Panel Res" or "Max Res". Maybe I should check out this setting and see what the D2 indicates. My CRT uses a moome card which accepts both types of YCbCr data automatically.
> 
> 
> As for the D2 output format, I see that we do have a choice of 4:4:4 or 4:2:2.
> 
> Ben



Keep looking. It is unusual for a source to offer 4:2:2 output but not offer a way to defeat it. 4:4:4 output is the default for HDMI to HDMI connections.


The 5910 undoubtedly finds out during the HDMI handshake that the D2 accepts 4:2:2, which is why it is offering it.


If you can't change it in the 5910, then don't worry about it. 4:2:2 input into the D2 should work just fine, and I'm sure the 5910 is generating it correctly.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

If anyone on here has a Pioneer 111/151 display, what are you using for Video Output settings in the Anthem?


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15935078
> 
> 
> There's not much call for Composite video except for device user interface viewing from some devices. If you are really watching DVDs that way, you ought to look into getting one of the inexpensive in-line converters that turn composite into S-video.
> 
> 
> The advantage of that is that the Anthem will actually process and scale S-video whereas Composite is only supported as unprocessed pass-through.
> 
> --Bob



thx for the extra insight! I did not know about the composite limitations. that said, we only watch _pre-movie_ cartoons, and to tell the truth, most people are so interested in seeing porky or bugs that they "care less" about the actual quality.[which is quite acceptable]

the only thing i am missing are the old newsreels.









walt


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15943484
> 
> 
> If anyone on here has a Pioneer 111/151 display, what are you using for Video Output settings in the Anthem?



I have a Pioneer 150. I have 2 Video Output configs, one at 1920x1080p @60 and the other at 1920x1080p @24. Data is YCbCr 4:4:4.


----------



## noysboy

AVM-50 Driving me crazy...


Is there any way to shorten the on-screen display when you change the volume? It doesnt seem to be tied to any of the menu settings. I dont want to turn off the on screen display, just not have it there so long when making minor volume adjustments.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/15943855
> 
> 
> I have a Pioneer 150. I have 2 Video Output configs, one at 1920x1080p @60 and the other at 1920x1080p @24. Data is YCbCr 4:4:4.



Thanks: So, when you watch blu-ray, you select 24 and when you watch tv, 60?


----------



## dweltman

Well I've had something unpleasant happen with my D2V. If I play SACDs from my PS3 at 176/24, all I hear is a clicking noise. Whereas if I restrict my PS3 to 88/24 like I used to do with my D2, it play fine. Any ideas what has happened? It wasn't originally that way! I tried changing HDMI cables, without any luck. I am using the 2.0 firmware, which originally came with my D2V.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *noysboy* /forum/post/15943938
> 
> 
> AVM-50 Driving me crazy...
> 
> 
> Is there any way to shorten the on-screen display when you change the volume? It doesnt seem to be tied to any of the menu settings. I dont want to turn off the on screen display, just not have it there so long when making minor volume adjustments.



Yes. Section 3.12 of the Manual.


Setup > Displays / Timeout > Display Timeout


Adjustable between 1 and 15 seconds.


Note that some display activity puts up one message, and then a 2nd message before going away, so the time before the messages completely leave the screen is twice this value. I use 3 seconds. The factory default is 5 seconds.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/15944028
> 
> 
> Well I've had something unpleasant happen with my D2V. If I play SACDs from my PS3 at 176/24, all I hear is a clicking noise. Whereas if I restrict my PS3 to 88/24 like I used to do with my D2, it play fine. Any ideas what has happened? It wasn't originally that way! I tried changing HDMI cables, without any luck. I am using the 2.0 firmware, which originally came with my D2V.



Check that your video output resolution from the PS3 is 720p or higher. HDMI audio is embedded in the blanking intervals of HDMI video and high bandwidth audio needs high res video to fit.


If that doesn't do it for you, then you'll likely need to install the latest "test" firmware (currently V2.03b). Give Anthem tech support a call on Monday.

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15943961
> 
> 
> Thanks: So, when you watch blu-ray, you select 24 and when you watch tv, 60?



No, I configured my blu-ray source to use video config 2 and the other sources use config 1.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/15944349
> 
> 
> No, I configured my blu-ray source to use video config 2 and the other sources use config 1.



Of course....that makes perfect sense. I often forget how versatile the Anthem is.


Thanks,


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/15944349
> 
> 
> No, I configured my blu-ray source to use video config 2 and the other sources use config 1.



Another thought. If the Anthem is set to different video outputs; 24 Hz vs 60 Hz, does the Pioneer automatically convert depending on the incoming signal?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15944888
> 
> 
> Another thought. If the Anthem is set to different video outputs; 24 Hz vs 60 Hz, does the Pioneer automatically convert depending on the incoming signal?



Yes. It is part of the HDMI handshake and switching the frame rate generates a new handshake.


I believe there is a setting in the Kuro displays that needs to be made to enable /24 input, but if it works at all it will work automatically when you switch Video Output configurations from the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15944888
> 
> 
> Another thought. If the Anthem is set to different video outputs; 24 Hz vs 60 Hz, does the Pioneer automatically convert depending on the incoming signal?



The Pioneer handles it just fine and it is automatic. It will show 24p when it gets that input. And it does 24p 36 bit (deep color).


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15944932
> 
> 
> Yes. It is part of the HDMI handshake and switching the frame rate generates a new handshake.
> 
> 
> I believe there is a setting in the Kuro displays that needs to be made to enable /24 input, but if it works at all it will work automatically when you switch Video Output configurations from the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


If I understand you correctly, if I have my blu-ray using config 2 in my Anthem's video out set at 24 hz and my satellite using config 1 in my Anthem's video out set at 60 hz, then the Pioneer will properly recognize the frame rate and display it accordingly? The Pioneer has Advanced and Smooth settings for 24 hz signals. Are you saying, if I leave it on one of these, when and input signal of 60 hz is fed to it, the Pioneer will automatically recognize it and convert it?


----------



## jayray

Bob,

did new measurement today and with FW2.03b and ARC 2.01.1. Music is now just right. sounds great, bass is sounding better. Movies are terrific. Subsonic LFE is fantastic. Upper and mid freq are still intact but now the LFE is able to pound. Tried 4 discs I am very familiar with and they all sound better in the low end. The only thing I changed was the room gain for music. I lowered it from 3.9 to 1.5. What is the most obvious thing we hear when gain is lowered or raised. I'v never really understood this.

thanks,

John


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15944994
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> If I understand you correctly, if I have my blu-ray using config 2 in my Anthem's video out set at 24 hz and my satellite using config 1 in my Anthem's video out set at 60 hz, then the Pioneer will properly recognize the frame rate and display it accordingly? The Pioneer has Advanced and Smooth settings for 24 hz signals. Are you saying, if I leave it on one of these, when and input signal of 60 hz is fed to it, the Pioneer will automatically recognize it and convert it?



You don't need any of these options... The Pioneer supports 24p just fine and it is automatic. It will switch between 60 and 24p with no intervention from you. Do you have a Pioneer yet?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/15945102
> 
> 
> You don't need any of these options... The Pioneer supports 24p just fine and it is automatic. It will switch between 60 and 24p with no intervention from you. Do you have a Pioneer yet?



No. It was supposed to arrive last Tuesday, but there were delays. I'm told tomorrow or Tuesday.


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15945122
> 
> 
> No. It was supposed to arrive last Tuesday, but there were delays. I'm told tomorrow or Tuesday.



You will definitly like it....


Here is what the Pioneer supports:


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/15945171
> 
> 
> You will definitly like it....
> 
> 
> Here is what the Pioneer supports:



Ken:


Yes, I knew it supported those, but I guess I didn't realize it was automatic. I'm looking forward in getting it. I'm watching "A Riteous Kill" on my 58PZ700 Panny right now. One of the best quality blu-rays I've seen. It would be fantastic on the Pioneer.


When do you use the Advanced and Smooth options?


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/15945222
> 
> 
> Ken:
> 
> 
> Yes, I knew it supported those, but I guess I didn't realize it was automatic. I'm looking forward in getting it. I'm watching "A Riteous Kill" on my 58PZ700 Panny right now. One of the best quality blu-rays I've seen. It would be fantastic on the Pioneer.
> 
> 
> When do you use the Advanced and Smooth options?



I don't use them. I have my in "Pure" mode, no additional processing to signal. Send me a PM if you have any other Pioneer questions so we don't derail the D2v thread... They do pair up nicely...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15945061
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> did new measurement today and with FW2.03b and ARC 2.01.1. Music is now just right. sounds great, bass is sounding better. Movies are terrific. Subsonic LFE is fantastic. Upper and mid freq are still intact but now the LFE is able to pound. Tried 4 discs I am very familiar with and they all sound better in the low end. The only thing I changed was the room gain for music. I lowered it from 3.9 to 1.5. What is the most obvious thing we hear when gain is lowered or raised. I'v never really understood this.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



Most of what people hear as "bass" in movies is in the range above 50Hz and through the crossovers. So increasing Room Gain too far will give a perception of too much bass from movies.


But really the whole idea here is to have the "processed" audio from the Anthem sound natural in the room. I.e., to have real world sounds like speech, doors closing, and other sounds you are well familiar with and that might also happen in your listening room sound the same from the movie as they do if they actually happen in your listening room. So that there's no inconsistency between what you hear from the movies and what you hear as real world sounds in that room.


The few dB of Room Gain typically found and preserved by ARC probably won't make enough difference to alter the perception of bass in movies (or music), but it will alter the perception of how natural the sound is because your ear is already attuned to what real world sounds sound like in that room.


---------------------------------------


I'm puzzled why your Room Gain measured values keep changing. Did you ever hear back from Nick what went wrong in that one file you sent him that showed almost no Room Gain?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Thanks for the info. Nick said the engineers thought my measurements were done with ARC on. This gave me, very close, to target curves. He has not commented on my room gain. I tossed out those measurements and am now enjoying the new ones.

John


----------



## facke02

Bob,


When you have a moment, would you mind taking a peak at my latest ARC runs. I'm still running the factory delivered release of ARC and firmware for the D2v.


My front three speakers have "Satellite" subs and I've just installed a stand alone JL Audio F113 in preparation of replacing them.


It does sound great.... Thanks


----------



## spiderv6

A couple of pics from my minor surgery today - replacing the HDMI daughter card to try and fix my non-working HDMI1 port.

Unfortunately it made no difference so it looks like I'm getting a new unit


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15945505
> 
> 
> A couple of pics from my minor surgery today - replacing the HDMI daughter card to try and fix my non-working HDMI1 port.
> 
> Unfortunately it made no difference so it looks like I'm getting a new unit



Sorry to hear that... Hopefully the new one comes a lot faster.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/15945501
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> When you have a moment, would you mind taking a peak at my latest ARC runs. I'm still running the factory delivered release of ARC and firmware for the D2v.
> 
> 
> My front three speakers have "Satellite" subs and I've just installed a stand alone JL Audio F113 in preparation of replacing them.
> 
> 
> It does sound great.... Thanks



You are in good shape.


The satellite subs on LF/RF have their internal volume turned up too high, but ARC has corrected that for you. It also looks like their internal crossover (how they transition to the main drivers in LF/RF) may be set a bit too low -- see the dip at 125 Hz. I.e., there's a gap below what the main drivers can handle before the satellite subs take over. Again, ARC has corrected that.


As consequence of ARC doing that correction, I suspect that is why ARC didn't have the spare resources to completely correct RF at 12KHz. But the residual error is tiny and can be safely ignored. Note that ARC completely corrected LF up there, which needed about the same amount of work. But the excess bass in LF is not so bad so ARC didn't have to work so hard down there.


Really the only thing to comment on is the dip in C at 1.5KHz. It is deeper than ARC will correct, but only by a few dB. You could probably ignore it. It may be due to the grill cloth or some other obstruction.


What you have now SHOULD sound wonderful.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15945505
> 
> 
> A couple of pics from my minor surgery today - replacing the HDMI daughter card to try and fix my non-working HDMI1 port.
> 
> Unfortunately it made no difference so it looks like I'm getting a new unit



Ah, OK. I see you just had to replace the daughter card and not the whole video board.


Is Anthem sending you a swap out unit? I.e., you keep the one you have now until the replacement arrives?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15945456
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for the info. Nick said the engineers thought my measurements were done with ARC on. This gave me, very close, to target curves. He has not commented on my room gain. I tossed out those measurements and am now enjoying the new ones.
> 
> John



It's actually a fascinating failure as it shows via Measurement just how close ARC came to actually hitting the Target curves with your prior ARC setup!


I.e., you got a real "before/after" shot at just how good ARC is!


A time waster of course, but intriguing to look at.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Too bad my last measurement didn't look as good







The popping from my sub occurs when I set higher cutoffs for my Fr, centre and sub. As soon as I upload without the new cutoffs, deep bass and no popping.

John


----------



## Big Tex

BIG TEX!!!! By a hair...actually it was Big Tex by quite a bit.


For those of you who don't remember...I'm the idiot that thinks ARC works in MHz and Ive been battling Surround Sound issues and Sub issues with ARC.


Thanks to Bob and several forum members I feel like I FINALLY have this baby dialed in!!!! With the addition of two SVS subs and ARC 2.0.1 I finally made it to the Promised Land after many disappointments.


I've spent the last two + weeks dialing in my final results. I settled on ARC 2.0.1 advanced using 20 KHz (yea...) setting and added 2.0 Db of room gain. I tested many sub configurations. I tested with one sub (front sub) in ARC and with both subs (front & back) in ARC. Even though ARC is designed to probably adjust for two subs, I found that Big Tex had better results when he ran ARC with ONLY the Front sub active during the ARC testing and calculations. I concluded that when I manually added/adjusted Sub #2 (back sub) into the mix I got a much better sound. As matter of fact I made a really killer discovery. I wasn't quite happy with ARC using one sub or both so I tweaked with the settings for ever.


My final ARC configuration consists of ARC measuring/controlling the front sub along with my 7 main speakers while Big Tex manually crosses/adjusts back sub into the game. Since sub #2 (back sub) is several feet closer to the main listening position and faces sub #1 (front sub) I had to adjust the phase to 180 on Sub #2 along with other controls. Once I had them dialed in it just didn't sound right. I then started playing with the crossover and BOOM...ecstasy! Now that Sub #2 is phased at 180, -3 db from Sub #1 and crossed over at 50 Hz my room rocks! Basically Sub #2 is just for 50 Hz and lower. I believe some people call this a rumble sub.


So in summary 100 Hz and below (I think) goes to the front sub at phase 0 and 50 Hz and below goes to the back sub at phase 180. The room rocks and its all good...


Thanks to everyone for all their help. I've attached my latest ARC results. Bob, do they look ok?


I've also attached a white paper on rumble subs that someone sent me. I found this data to be very appropriate to my situation.


Thanks


Big Tex

 

TMWJ_rumble_impact_subs.pdf 143.1103515625k . file


----------



## Big Tex

What's the latest official release of ARC?


Thanks


Big Tex


----------



## Warpdrv

Oooooh oooohh I know this one...


ARC 2.01.1


----------



## muad'dib

Hello All..



So to have me understand, is it better to re-measure with newest firmware? I still have my readings with 2.01, but after hearing about people re-doing it, my mind is curious..


Looks like many are saying this between the lines..











Thanx..


----------



## gchuva

Will the video processing features of the D2v be an advantage for my 1,024x768 native resolution plasma with HDMI?


----------



## AbMagFab

Well, I've been messing with my room since getting ARC, trying to get the natural acoustics of the room as flat as possible pre-ARC. This could become a full-time job...


I used to have a nasty 100Hz null, that I got rid of by adding two more acoustic panels in the rear of the room. I also flattened by center speaker a fair amount with a ceiling panel.


But - adding these panels somehow added (or revealed) a 200Hz null for my fronts and rears (not sides). It's about -5 to -7db on the fronts and rears, right at 200Hz.


But worse, by sub (SVS PB13 Ultra, with one port sealed) keeps measuring as dropping off below around 25Hz. However when I add my SMS-1 back into the mix, I can bring it up so it's level from 15Hz on up. And it's a noticable listening improvement post-SMS1 with the sub-sonic and just barely sonic bass (the intro to CSI:NY has some really good 20-25Hz bass).


My sub is located very very near the measurement mic (like 3-feet close in a couple of the positions). Could this be affecting things?


So my questions:


- What are the typical solutions to a 200Hz null? Is that a corner-trap, ceiling panel, or wall panel issue, generally? The (normal) only place I don't have acoustic panels is behind my screen. If this would make a difference, I could take it down, frame it out 1 1/2" with 2x4's, and then put 4 2" 2x4 acoustic panels behind it. But it doesn't seem like that would impact my fronts? My rear wall is pretty well deadened with 4" panels and corner traps. It also made zero difference if I opened the rear doors to the theater or left them closed.


- Why can't I get ARC to measure the sub properly, when the SMS-1 is able to? Should I move the sub to the front of the room? Moving it around in the corner it's in makes some difference, but not much.


Thanks!

-Mark


----------



## Big Tex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15946340
> 
> 
> Oooooh oooohh I know this one...
> 
> 
> ARC 2.01.1



Is this different from 2.0.1 that I'm using? How recent is 2.01.1? I recall Bob talking about big improvements in the next version.


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The "official" ARC version -- on the public download page -- is ARC V2.0.1


The "test" ARC version -- on the password protected download page -- is ARC V2.0.1.1


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gchuva* /forum/post/15946474
> 
> 
> Will the video processing features of the D2v be an advantage for my 1,024x768 native resolution plasma with HDMI?



Yes. Particularly if your plasma will accept its native resolution as a valid video input reolution.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/15946350
> 
> 
> Hello All..
> 
> 
> 
> So to have me understand, is it better to re-measure with newest firmware? I still have my readings with 2.01, but after hearing about people re-doing it, my mind is curious..
> 
> 
> Looks like many are saying this between the lines..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanx..



I like what I'm hearing on the "test" V2.03b firmware without re-Measuring, so I'm going to wait for at least another release.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15946161
> 
> 
> Too bad my last measurement didn't look as good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The popping from my sub occurs when I set higher cutoffs for my Fr, centre and sub. As soon as I upload without the new cutoffs, deep bass and no popping.
> 
> John



The popping when you alter ARC's choice of cutoffs sounds like a bug. Let Nick know the details.

--Bob


----------



## gchuva




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15946848
> 
> 
> Yes. Particularly if your plasma will accept its native resolution as a valid video input reolution.
> 
> --Bob



This is the input table I found in the manual. It does not look like it accepts the native resolution for the HDMI input. What D2 rate should I choose?


Input signal correlation table

1920∗[email protected]/60Hz

720∗[email protected]/60Hz

1280∗[email protected]/60Hz

720(1440)∗[email protected]/60Hz


I do note that there is a computer compatibility chart in the manual that does include the native resolution


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15946499
> 
> 
> Well, I've been messing with my room since getting ARC, trying to get the natural acoustics of the room as flat as possible pre-ARC. This could become a full-time job...
> 
> 
> I used to have a nasty 100Hz null, that I got rid of by adding two more acoustic panels in the rear of the room. I also flattened by center speaker a fair amount with a ceiling panel.
> 
> 
> But - adding these panels somehow added (or revealed) a 200Hz null for my fronts and rears (not sides). It's about -5 to -7db on the fronts and rears, right at 200Hz.
> 
> 
> But worse, by sub (SVS PB13 Ultra, with one port sealed) keeps measuring as dropping off below around 25Hz. However when I add my SMS-1 back into the mix, I can bring it up so it's level from 15Hz on up. And it's a noticable listening improvement post-SMS1 with the sub-sonic and just barely sonic bass (the intro to CSI:NY has some really good 20-25Hz bass).
> 
> 
> My sub is located very very near the measurement mic (like 3-feet close in a couple of the positions). Could this be affecting things?
> 
> 
> So my questions:
> 
> 
> - What are the typical solutions to a 200Hz null? Is that a corner-trap, ceiling panel, or wall panel issue, generally? The (normal) only place I don't have acoustic panels is behind my screen. If this would make a difference, I could take it down, frame it out 1 1/2" with 2x4's, and then put 4 2" 2x4 acoustic panels behind it. But it doesn't seem like that would impact my fronts? My rear wall is pretty well deadened with 4" panels and corner traps. It also made zero difference if I opened the rear doors to the theater or left them closed.
> 
> 
> - Why can't I get ARC to measure the sub properly, when the SMS-1 is able to? Should I move the sub to the front of the room? Moving it around in the corner it's in makes some difference, but not much.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Mark



There's a forum here for home theater setup where room treatments are discussed -- or perhaps it is in the audio theory section now. In any event, that would probably be the best place to post for suggestions. It occurs to me that your 200Hz may be a harmonic of the 100Hz problem you were solving. Perhaps your bass traps don't go high enough to nail both.


---------------------------------


I think you might want to re-Measure with "test" ARC V2.0.1.1, there've been several reports already that it seems to do much better in the subsonics than "official" ARC V2.0.1.


The mic placement could indeed be an issue. You might be in the "near field" of your sub, which will have different characteristics.


There's nothing wrong with using SMS to boost your sub a bit if that helps. My advice would be that you set up your SMS and *THEN* re-Measure for ARC with the SMS active. Doing it the other way around (ARC setup and then SMS) won't give you the best results because ARC is not just a simple parametric filter EQ system and adding SMS after ARC will likely undo the solution ARC has crafted.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gchuva* /forum/post/15947214
> 
> 
> This is the input table I found in the manual. It does not look like it accepts the native resolution for the HDMI input. What D2 rate should I choose?
> 
> 
> Input signal correlation table
> 
> 1920∗[email protected]/60Hz
> 
> 720∗[email protected]/60Hz
> 
> 1280∗[email protected]/60Hz
> 
> 720(1440)∗[email protected]/60Hz
> 
> 
> I do note that there is a computer compatibility chart in the manual that does include the native resolution



Of the ones in that list 720p is likely to work best because the display won't have to do any de-interlacing (the Anthem will do that). If you can get the computer style setup to work at the native resolution, that might be better, but honestly it's hard to say without just trying stuff.


If you can find a thread in the plasma forum for your model of plasma, you could ask other owners there what your options are for using that plasma with a video processor.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15946303
> 
> 
> BIG TEX!!!! By a hair...actually it was Big Tex by quite a bit.
> 
> 
> For those of you who don't remember...I'm the idiot that thinks ARC works in MHz and I’ve been battling Surround Sound issues and Sub issues with ARC.
> 
> 
> Thanks to Bob and several forum members I feel like I FINALLY have this baby dialed in!!!! With the addition of two SVS subs and ARC 2.0.1 I finally made it to the Promised Land after many disappointments.
> 
> 
> I've spent the last two + weeks dialing in my final results. I settled on ARC 2.0.1 advanced using 20 KHz (yea...) setting and added 2.0 Db of room gain. I tested many sub configurations. I tested with one sub (front sub) in ARC and with both subs (front & back) in ARC. Even though ARC is designed to probably adjust for two subs, I found that Big Tex had better results when he ran ARC with ONLY the Front sub active during the ARC testing and calculations. I concluded that when I manually added/adjusted Sub #2 (back sub) into the mix I got a much better sound. As matter of fact I made a really killer discovery. I wasn't quite happy with ARC using one sub or both so I tweaked with the settings for ever.
> 
> 
> My final ARC configuration consists of ARC measuring/controlling the front sub along with my 7 main speakers while Big Tex manually crosses/adjusts back sub into the game. Since sub #2 (back sub) is several feet closer to the main listening position and faces sub #1 (front sub) I had to adjust the phase to 180 on Sub #2 along with other controls. Once I had them dialed in it just didn't sound right. I then started playing with the crossover and BOOM...ecstasy! Now that Sub #2 is phased at 180, -3 db from Sub #1 and crossed over at 50 Hz my room rocks! Basically Sub #2 is just for 50 Hz and lower. I believe some people call this a rumble sub.
> 
> 
> So in summary 100 Hz and below (I think) goes to the front sub at phase 0 and 50 Hz and below goes to the back sub at phase 180. The room rocks and its all good...
> 
> 
> Thanks to everyone for all their help. I've attached my latest ARC results. Bob, do they look ok?
> 
> 
> I've also attached a white paper on rumble subs that someone sent me. I found this data to be very appropriate to my situation.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Big Tex



I'm glad you found a solution that's working for you!


The sub you had ARC Measure is showing a big dip at 50Hz, so putting in the second sub down that low is probably filling things in. 50Hz-65Hz is kind of an important range for movie bass.


As always the key is to trust your ears. If what you've got now sounds great to you then that's really the only important thing!


Anyway I think the thing for you to do now is enjoy your success.

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15945962
> 
> 
> You are in good shape.
> 
> 
> The satellite subs on LF/RF have their internal volume turned up too high, but ARC has corrected that for you. It also looks like their internal crossover (how they transition to the main drivers in LF/RF) may be set a bit too low -- see the dip at 125 Hz. I.e., there's a gap below what the main drivers can handle before the satellite subs take over. Again, ARC has corrected that.
> 
> 
> As consequence of ARC doing that correction, I suspect that is why ARC didn't have the spare resources to completely correct RF at 12KHz. But the residual error is tiny and can be safely ignored. Note that ARC completely corrected LF up there, which needed about the same amount of work. But the excess bass in LF is not so bad so ARC didn't have to work so hard down there.
> 
> 
> Really the only thing to comment on is the dip in C at 1.5KHz. It is deeper than ARC will correct, but only by a few dB. You could probably ignore it. It may be due to the grill cloth or some other obstruction.
> 
> 
> What you have now SHOULD sound wonderful.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob...


I did quite a few measurements yesterday tweaking the volume of the sub in the LF/RF. This was about the best of the bunch, but I will continue to find that sweet spot. This is why I'm searching for new fronts...


My center is in a cabinet, which probably accounts for the dip at 1.5KHz.


And you're right it does sound wonderful...


Thanks again.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15946499
> 
> 
> - Why can't I get ARC to measure the sub properly, when the SMS-1 is able to? Should I move the sub to the front of the room? Moving it around in the corner it's in makes some difference, but not much.



Um, wow. I moved the sub to the front stage from the back of the room. It's now ~10-feet from the main listening position versus 3-feet.


Here's the sub ARC measurement from the back of the room:










And here it is when moved to the front of the room:










So I can only conclude one or more of the following must be true:

1) ARC doesn't measure subs well that close

2) The sub radically changed it's response curve from the movement (probably partially true, but since the SMS-1 could do it before, I doubt this was a significant factor)

3) I had to turn up the gain with it further away, so perhaps that had some impact on the lower frequencies


Anyway, it's looking much better now (although the calc has it dropping off at 20Hz for some reason, when the natural response was flatter, which seems odd).


----------



## tngiloy

I recently uploaded the arc2.0.1.1 test software to my D2 running v1.33.

My impression has been positive. Movies are great! The bass and LFE are outstanding. I've watched 'Iron Man' BR and 'Kung Fu Panda' BR and 'The Incredibles' DVD,the last few nights and bass and LFE are greatly improved, IMHO, from arc2.0.1. The scenes that are supposed to make the floor/room shake now do it. It's not exagerrated, but it's there now, when it wasn't with arc2.0.1.

Music is also very good. There is more bass to be sure. But I don't know if the increased bass is because arc is boosting the available bass, or if there is more bass information being sent to my speakers with the newer test arc.

I included my latest arc graphs for movie, music and targets. The original targets were changed from 5K to 20K for frequency, and I raised the room gain for music to match the movie. The music room gain is usually lower than movie, but this time it was really low. The music room gain was 0.08xxx which is much lower than it had been with other arc readings. I used the same mic positions that I usually use, so I'm not sure what caused it to be sooo low this time.









What's causing the dip at 100hz in my fronts? My fronts and surrounds are the exact same speakers, only in different spots of the room. Is this dip positional, and what would improve it? Or is it nothing to worry about? Please don't tell me I'm suffering from 'Richard syndrome'.

My room is not ideal acoustically, but its what I've got. Please let me know what adjustments, if any, should be made.

Thanks, Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15948657
> 
> 
> Um, wow. I moved the sub to the front stage from the back of the room. It's now ~10-feet from the main listening position versus 3-feet.
> 
> 
> Here's the sub ARC measurement from the back of the room:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is when moved to the front of the room:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I can only conclude one or more of the following must be true:
> 
> 1) ARC doesn't measure subs well that close
> 
> 2) The sub radically changed it's response curve from the movement (probably partially true, but since the SMS-1 could do it before, I doubt this was a significant factor)
> 
> 3) I had to turn up the gain with it further away, so perhaps that had some impact on the lower frequencies
> 
> 
> Anyway, it's looking much better now (although the calc has it dropping off at 20Hz for some reason, when the natural response was flatter, which seems odd).



The Calculated curve is dropping off at 20Hz because of the amount of swing there from the peak at 35Hz. There's is probably another peak below 20Hz that the chart doesn't show but ARC sees and also corrects.


The corrections affect the results either side of them. See what's happening at 70Hz for comparison.


So the amount of cut ARC has to do either side of 20Hz is generating more dip at 20Hz as an artifact -- more than it can correct by a boost.


Keep in mind when comparing to anything you do with SMS that ARC has to deal with corrections across a range of mic positions. Down at these frequencies, what the mic sees will vary significantly from mic position to mic position.


[NOTE: This is one reason it is essential to follow the mic placement rules. #1 at the center, subsequent positions alternating either side of center, and no two positions, whether or not sequential, closer than 24 inches apart from each other.]


With SMS it is easy to get a perfectly flat response at any one position. But if you then move the mic around and look again you find the other mic positions are quite a bit off. To do with SMS what ARC does you would need to come up with a compromise result that is not perfect at any one mic position but that looks pretty good at all of them. Try that and I think you'll find the result with SMS is closer to what ARC is showing you in its curves (which represent the unweighted average of all the mic positions).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15949499
> 
> 
> I recently uploaded the arc2.0.1.1 test software to my D2 running v1.33.
> 
> My impression has been positive. Movies are great! The bass and LFE are outstanding. I've watched 'Iron Man' BR and 'Kung Fu Panda' BR and 'The Incredibles' DVD,the last few nights and bass and LFE are greatly improved, IMHO, from arc2.0.1. The scenes that are supposed to make the floor/room shake now do it. It's not exagerrated, but it's there now, when it wasn't with arc2.0.1.
> 
> Music is also very good. There is more bass to be sure. But I don't know if the increased bass is because arc is boosting the available bass, or if there is more bass information being sent to my speakers with the newer test arc.
> 
> I included my latest arc graphs for movie, music and targets. The original targets were changed from 5K to 20K for frequency, and I raised the room gain for music to match the movie. The music room gain is usually lower than movie, but this time it was really low. The music room gain was 0.08xxx which is much lower than it had been with other arc readings. I used the same mic positions that I usually use, so I'm not sure what caused it to be sooo low this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's causing the dip at 100hz in my fronts? My fronts and surrounds are the exact same speakers, only in different spots of the room. Is this dip positional, and what would improve it? Or is it nothing to worry about? Please don't tell me I'm suffering from 'Richard syndrome'.
> 
> My room is not ideal acoustically, but its what I've got. Please let me know what adjustments, if any, should be made.
> 
> Thanks, Tom



You are in pretty good shape. You could probably even declare victory and live with just what you have now.


The dip at 100Hz in LF/RF is a room response cancellation null. It is a result of how the placement of those two speakers cause them to couple with the standing waves that will be created due to the geometry of your room.


The resulting dip is a bit deeper than ARC will correct. The residual error, about 3dB, is on the edge of something you really should try to correct.


You can fix this by altering how those two speakers couple to the room.


One way is to relocate them a bit (even inches matter at these frequencies). Try a bit closer or further from the nearest wall corner for each. See how well Center is doing at 100Hz for example -- a result of the different location yielding different coupling to the room.


Another way is to add some room treatment such as bass traps in the wall corners behind them that alter how bass sound reflects off that corner behind them.


You don't have Richard Syndrome. The output above and below 100Hz is fine, so you don't have a broken speaker driver. Nor would it be likely that you'd have the same type of speaker failure in two speakers.


------------------------------------------------


The reason ARC decided you have essentially no Room Gain for Music is that the dip in LF/RF at 100Hz is confusing it. For Movie, ARC has the additional info from the other speakers, so it knows that dip is not really reflective of the room. Raising Room Gain for Music a bit, as you did, is the proper workaround.


Of course, fixing those Measured dips at 100Hz is the real answer.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15940415
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Earlier this evening I did some critical tests comparing DD5.1 tracks as decoded in the Oppo, in the PS3 and in the D2v.
> 
> 
> I couldn't spot any differences (again, now that the HDMI LPCM LFE input level bug has been fixed).
> 
> 
> I'll try the same sort of test with TrueHD and DTS-HD MA some other time. I already know that the levels match for DD5.1 each way and TrueHD each way, but I haven't checked for quality issues in the TrueHD decoding and I'm saving DTS-HD MA for last because I think it the one most likely to have some nasties, and I want to get my technique down before I tackle it.



None at all?


That confirm my guesses.


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15943032
> 
> 
> Set up two source input definitions, e.g., DVD1 and DVD2. Put your custom crop in Video Source Adjust for one of them (e.g., DVD2). Select that source when you want the custom crop in effect.
> 
> 
> In the Setup menu for Triggers, go to the table for your chosen trigger and select that this trigger driving your lens activates only when you have chosen that source (e.g., DVD2) as the active input.
> 
> 
> The buttons on the Anthem remote only offer single push access to the sources by cycling between the overlaid sources, e.g., DVD1 -> DVD2. But there are 3 key sequences that you can use to get to, say DVD2 directly. You could use those with the Anthem remote if you wish, but they are mostly useful for programming into a programmable remote. See Appendix A of the Manual.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob!


I plugged in all those settings as well as updated to 2.03B which now resolved the buzzing that was coming from the LS and RS speakers.


The only issue that's still hanging is the HDMI handshaking between components, it's unusually long.


We have a 30ft HDMI cable going from the processor into an Epson projector and regardless of which component is selected (between the Panny BD55K, Toshiba XA2, Motorola DCT3416 or Popcorn Hour A110) it takes a good 15 - 30 seconds for any picture to come up.


Any ideas why?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15949755
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob!
> 
> 
> I plugged in all those settings as well as updated to 2.03B which now resolved the buzzing that was coming from the LS and RS speakers.
> 
> 
> The only issue that's still hanging is the HDMI handshaking between components, it's unusually long.
> 
> 
> We have a 30ft HDMI cable going from the processor into an Epson projector and regardless of which component is selected (between the Panny BD55K, Toshiba XA2, Motorola DCT3416 or Popcorn Hour A110) it takes a good 15 - 30 seconds for any picture to come up.
> 
> 
> Any ideas why?



See how long the delay is when you bring up the Setup menu on-screen. If it is that long then you are getting a lot of retries on the output side. This is either due to your long cable or to the Epson not playing well with the Anthem. Send an email to Anthem tech support to see if they have any known issues with that projector.


[The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source. Since the connections are internal there's no issue of input-side cabling.]


If the handshake to bring up the Setup menu is more reasonable, but you are still having problems selecting your normal input devices, then the issue is more likely on the input side. I say more likely because input sources drive the handshake from end to end -- i.e., your player does the handshake to the Anthem and then also drives the handshake from the Anthem to the display to confirm copy protection.


My guess is going to be it is your long cable.


Here's another thing to try, temporarily change your Video Output resolution from the Anthem to 480p. That's the "simplest" resolution for the HDMI handshake. I presume your projector will accept that as input. If that speeds up the handshake then again that points to a marginal long cable to your projector.


ETA: With the D2v and AVM 50v it is apparently "normal" that the handshake delay establishing video to the display is much longer at power up than it is when switching sources after everything is already powered up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Found another report on the Bristol (UK) showing of the D2v:

http://uk.cinenow.com/articles/9309-...tol-new-models 


Nothing really new except a photo.


Curiously, the CES Demo Dolly is not present.










ETA: And yet another:

http://www.t3.com/news/anthem-statem...-the-uk?=38238 


---------------------------------------


The web site for Anthem AV Solutions (Anthem's new UK distributor) is still stubbed out.

--Bob


----------



## flavorguy

I'm having my Anthem dealer over on Friday for some additional measurements with ARC. I also have the reported component video freeze when switching between 480i and HD video content...


I have as of yet not loaded FW 2.03c (although I did receive a copy). Although we know the 2.03c still does not correct the video switching, are there other benefits on having this FW installed? And since he's at it, should I see if he can get a copy of the 2.0.1.1 version of ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15951486
> 
> 
> I'm having my Anthem dealer over on Friday for some additional measurements with ARC. I also have the reported component video freeze when switching between 480i and HD video content...
> 
> 
> I have as of yet not loaded FW 2.03c (although I did receive a copy). Although we know the 2.03c still does not correct the video switching, are there other benefits on having this FW installed? And since he's at it, should I see if he can get a copy of the 2.0.1.1 version of ARC?



"Test" firmware V2.03c is newer than the newest version I'm aware of. The newest "test" version I'm aware of is V2.03b.


Are you sure you are not confusing this with the prior "test" version -- V2.02c?


If you have access to V2.03b (or later), you should install it in my opinion. There are important bug fixes in V2.03b including the bug fix for 5dB high HDMI LPCM LFE input. I don't think your ARC Measurements will be messed up by not having that fix, but the results of what you listen to WILL be messed up unless you use HDMI Bitstream audio input.


-------------------------------------------


If you have access to V2.03b, then you also have access to ARC V2.0.1.1 (they are both on the password protected download page) and I think it would be a good idea to switch to that as well. Remember that you will need to uninstall ARC V2.0.1 on your PC (using Windows Add/Remove Programs) before the installer will let you install ARC V2.0.1.1


The release notes for the V2.03b firmware were posted here a few days ago.

--Bob


----------



## flavorguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15951617
> 
> 
> "Test" firmware V2.03c is newer than the newest version I'm aware of. The newest "test" version I'm aware of is V2.03b.
> 
> 
> Are you sure you are not confusing this with the prior "test" version -- V2.02c?
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob- You are right with the version I have - it is 2.02c....you are also right in that I am thoroughly confused...


----------



## Big Tex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15947294
> 
> 
> I'm glad you found a solution that's working for you!
> 
> 
> The sub you had ARC Measure is showing a big dip at 50Hz, so putting in the second sub down that low is probably filling things in. 50Hz-65Hz is kind of an important range for movie bass.
> 
> 
> As always the key is to trust your ears. If what you've got now sounds great to you then that's really the only important thing!
> 
> 
> Anyway I think the thing for you to do now is enjoy your success.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob...


One last question and then back to enjoying... How can I confirm the crossover from my mains to my sub? I.E. how can I tell what the crossover is on the mains and where ARC starts sending LFE to the sub? Lets say my mains are crossed over at 60hz (I'm guessing...need guidance to be sure).


Is there any overlap of LFE between the sub and mains; does ARC send 60 - 100hz to the mains and sub or does it just send 60 hz and below to the sub and 60hz + to the mains? Where do I find out these stats and crossover frequencies?


Thanks!


Big Tex


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Big Tex* /forum/post/15953096
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob...
> 
> 
> One last question and then back to enjoying... How can I confirm the crossover from my mains to my sub? I.E. how can I tell what the crossover is on the mains and where ARC starts sending LFE to the sub? Lets say my mains are crossed over at 60hz (I'm guessing...need guidance to be sure).
> 
> 
> Is there any overlap of LFE between the sub and mains; does ARC send 60 - 100hz to the mains and sub or does it just send 60 hz and below to the sub and 60hz + to the mains? Where do I find out these stats and crossover frequencies?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Big Tex



Look in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie or Music for the crossover values used for bass steering. These are values Uploaded by ARC.


From the Specifications page of the manual the roll off for the crossovers of the main speakers is 12dB per octave. 6dB is equivalent to halving or doubling the volume and an octave is a halving or doubling of the frequency.


The roll off of the subwoofer crossover is 24dB per octave.


This applies to bass steered from the main speaker channels to the subwoofer.


LFE content is handled specially by ARC to make sure all the appropriate LFE input gets reproduced by the sub even if a low, bass-steering crossover is in effect.


When you have a subwoofer configured, all the LFE goes to the subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15949676
> 
> 
> You are in pretty good shape. You could probably even declare victory and live with just what you have now.
> 
> 
> The dip at 100Hz in LF/RF is a room response cancellation null.
> 
> 
> You can fix this by altering how those two speakers couple to the room.
> 
> 
> One way is to relocate them a bit (even inches matter at these frequencies). Try a bit closer or further from the nearest wall corner for each. See how well Center is doing at 100Hz for example -- a result of the different location yielding different coupling to the room.
> 
> 
> Another way is to add some room treatment such as bass traps in the wall corners behind them that alter how bass sound reflects off that corner behind them.
> 
> 
> Of course, fixing those Measured dips at 100Hz is the real answer.
> 
> --Bob



I moved the fronts around some and think I got it a little better. I'm in the process of tring to find some inexpensive unobtrusive bass traps for the corners behind the fronts. Let me know what you think, please.

Tom


----------



## schlitzie

Hi All -- I'm getting a bit of inconsistent info from my dealer on when I can expect my D2V to be delivered... He tells me any day now (I ordered it two weeks ago), but am hearing rumors through a friend that Anthem won't be shipping any new units until the end of March or April... Can anyone confirm or deny they are backordered a month plus?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/15953854
> 
> 
> I moved the fronts around some and think I got it a little better. I'm in the process of tring to find some inexpensive unobtrusive bass traps for the corners behind the fronts. Let me know what you think, please.
> 
> Tom



Sure, this is definitely better. RF is completely corrected, and LF is within 2dB of corrected in that dip, which should be fine even if you don't do anything else.


Enjoy!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *schlitzie* /forum/post/15954206
> 
> 
> Hi All -- I'm getting a bit of inconsistent info from my dealer on when I can expect my D2V to be delivered... He tells me any day now (I ordered it two weeks ago), but am hearing rumors through a friend that Anthem won't be shipping any new units until the end of March or April... Can anyone confirm or deny they are backordered a month plus?



The most recent backorder report we've seen was dated Feb 17 and listed Feb 27 for the D2v.


We think that means all orders placed with Anthem prior to Feb 17 were expected to ship from Anthem by Feb 27. To that you have to add shipping delays.


Of course this would have just been an estimate.

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

I'm a little lost.

Bob you say do not mesure less than 2ft from each location.

My room is 10ft wide. only one row of seats.

Below is how I am kind of doing my mesure.

I have a 2 seater and a single seat 1 and 3 are the 2 seater and 2 is the single. 4 and 5 are taken just in front of the seats a bit.


as from my main sitting spot is (if 5ft was my center going left from right) then my main seat is about 5 and 1/2 ft to the right. If you understand what I mean.,


5 4

31 2


Whats my best way to mesure then. also note mic 1-2-and 3 are done on the seats mic at ear level but a back rest behind.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/15955364
> 
> 
> I'm a little lost.
> 
> Bob you say do not mesure less than 2ft from each location.
> 
> My room is 10ft wide. only one row of seats.
> 
> Below is how I am kind of doing my mesure.
> 
> I have a 2 seater and a single seat 1 and 3 are the 2 seater and 2 is the single. 4 and 5 are taken just in front of the seats a bit.
> 
> 
> as from my main sitting spot is (if 5ft was my center going left from right) then my main seat is about 5 and 1/2 ft to the right. If you understand what I mean.,
> 
> 
> 5 4
> 
> 31 2
> 
> 
> Whats my best way to mesure then. also note mic 1-2-and 3 are done on the seats mic at ear level but a back rest behind.



The mic positions don't have to correspond to actual seats. You just have to make sure you are sampling the area in the vicinity of the seating.


Putting mic #1 in the center at the preferred seating distance is important because that's the position ARC uses to select the speaker volume trims.


Separating all the mic positions at least 24 inches from each other is essential so that ARC gets a chance to hear how the room response varies as the mic location changes. Alternating either side of center assures even more spacing as well as coverage all around the central position.


So a layout like you have should be fine so long as #1 is spaced at least 24 inches from #3, and #'s 4 and 5 are a typical seat width forward. I've been using 30 inches in my spacing:


4....................5

..\\................./

...2 --- 1 --- 3


Mics 2, 1, and 3 are along the length of a sofa but not the full length of it. Mics 4 and 5 are outside the arms of the sofa and forward towards the front edge of the sofa seat. All mics are set at the same height -- seated ear height.


People with more than one row of seats might find it better to use a box layout like this:


4......5

..\\.../

....1

../...\\

2......3


Using more than 5 mic positions can help span more complicated seating arrangements.


Don't position the mic tip close to a reflective surface like a wall or chair back. If necessary, raise the mic tip a few inches to clear the top of a chair back or shift the mic position about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from the chair back.


And remember that the mic should be adjusted to point straight upwards at each location.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib

Well, Finally got the firmware to load into my D2v..

















My first 6 attempts were with my main computer, that uses Windows Vista Home Prem. using a USB to Serial adaptor (keyspan).


For every firmware I have tried in the past, all worked perfect with this usb/vista combo.


but...


Not now for some reason..











Anyway, tried my laptop that has XP on it and a real serial port, and, YES it worked!!







To my surprise..




Now can't figure what was the cause on my main computer... Vista or Keyspan.. (note: keyspan on vista works perfect with newest ARC...)



Anyway, now happy..


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15949811
> 
> 
> See how long the delay is when you bring up the Setup menu on-screen. If it is that long then you are getting a lot of retries on the output side. This is either due to your long cable or to the Epson not playing well with the Anthem. Send an email to Anthem tech support to see if they have any known issues with that projector.
> 
> 
> [The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source. Since the connections are internal there's no issue of input-side cabling.]
> 
> 
> If the handshake to bring up the Setup menu is more reasonable, but you are still having problems selecting your normal input devices, then the issue is more likely on the input side. I say more likely because input sources drive the handshake from end to end -- i.e., your player does the handshake to the Anthem and then also drives the handshake from the Anthem to the display to confirm copy protection.
> 
> 
> My guess is going to be it is your long cable.
> 
> 
> Here's another thing to try, temporarily change your Video Output resolution from the Anthem to 480p. That's the "simplest" resolution for the HDMI handshake. I presume your projector will accept that as input. If that speeds up the handshake then again that points to a marginal long cable to your projector.
> 
> 
> ETA: With the D2v and AVM 50v it is apparently "normal" that the handshake delay establishing video to the display is much longer at power up than it is when switching sources after everything is already powered up.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


Someone suggested these to us:
http://www.ixos.co.uk/us/ixos-produc...ry=3&SubCat=22 


Do you know if they would make a difference? Is there anything you suggest?


I'll have to retest everything when I get a chance... meanwhile trying to see if there's anything we can do to speed up the handshake.


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15955830
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> 
> Someone suggested these to us:
> http://www.ixos.co.uk/us/ixos-produc...ry=3&SubCat=22
> 
> 
> Do you know if they would make a difference? Is there anything you suggest?
> 
> 
> I'll have to retest everything when I get a chance... meanwhile trying to see if there's anything we can do to speed up the handshake.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I'm sorry, I don't know anything about these.


There are certainly HDMI cables made that will work for a 30 foot length.

Check out the cables from Blue Jeans Cable that are designed for longer lengths.


Another thing to try is to temporarily move equipment so you can use a shorter cable to the projector. If that works then you know it is definitely a cable issue. Also make sure the weight of your current cable isn't shifting the plug in the socket. It only takes a little shift to change the quality of the connection.


ETA: If you are using any adapters -- e.g., wall plates -- they may be the cause of your problem. Try a direct cable connection without any adapters.

--Bob


----------



## zr123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15955865
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, I don't know anything about these.
> 
> 
> There are certainly HDMI cables made that will work for a 30 foot length.
> 
> Check out the cables from Blue Jeans Cable that are designed for longer lengths.
> 
> 
> Another thing to try is to temporarily move equipment so you can use a shorter cable to the projector. If that works then you know it is definitely a cable issue. Also make sure the weight of your current cable isn't shifting the plug in the socket. It only takes a little shift to change the quality of the connection.
> 
> 
> ETA: If you are using any adapters -- e.g., wall plates -- they may be the cause of your problem. Try a direct cable connection without any adapters.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


The 30ft HDMI cable was pre-wired into the room prior to construction. So it's behind drywall, etc.


The equipment is actually on a rack, which is wall mounted.


All of this makes it completely impossible to move anything around.


Do you know/think if an amplifier or booster (HDMI) would help?


----------



## gchuva




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14688922
> 
> 
> The problem is that "phase" controls typically only work in the frequencies near the crossover. That's because making a control that offers fine adjustment and which works uniformly across the entire frequency range is too expensive.
> 
> 
> That's why there are also "polarity" and distance adjustments. Polarity is just like reversing the wires. It operates across the entire frequency range uniformly. Distance and polarity together assure that bass and higher frequency elements arrive at the ear at the same time, and that bass arriving from different subs is matched in phase across the entire sub frequency range (presuming the subs have similar response characteristics). This keeps the subs from canceling each other. Meanwhile phase makes sure that those elements that are playing through both the sub and the mains (due to the crossover not being a hard cutoff but rather a blend of sound from both) don't cancel each other.
> 
> 
> If you have multiple subs, generally you will want normal polarity if the cone of the sub is pointing the same direction as the front speakers and reverse polarity if it is pointing the opposite direction (e.g., a sub in the rear of the room). Then you set distance for something like the average distance of your set of subs from the primary listening position. Obviously this works best if all your subs are equidistant. Then you set phase to match each sub in turn to the Left Front speaker in the crossover region. The LF speaker is commonly used as the surrogate for the entire set of main speakers. If you have a sub to the side, you might have to try both polarities (with phase separately set up for each) and see which polarity gives you the best results. In general, it is usually best to try both polarities in any event.
> 
> 
> Now you obviously won't get a precise phase match from every sub to every main speaker because the relative distances are different. The sub will always be closer to some speaker. But that's the nature of multi-channel audio. You set things up as above and it usually works just fine.
> 
> 
> The relative speaker distance settings are much more important for the main speakers as the higher frequencies are more localizable. If you get the distance settings wrong the focus of sound from two speakers will be shifted to one side or the other. But for the bass tones coming from the sub it is much less of a problem since it isn't localizable. It "fills the room" from all directions at once. [Technically, it pressurizes the room -- setting up standing waves -- so the ear doesn't hear it coming from any one direction.]
> 
> 
> And that means that it is generally not a problem to have one subwoofer distance setting even though you actually have more than one sub. A ballpark average distance setting for the sub will work.
> 
> 
> With more than one sub it is more important to get the relative "polarity" set up right between them, and to get the "phase" right with respect to the mains (the Left Front speaker) independently for each of them.
> 
> --Bob




Regardless of the potential workarounds, is there any likelihood that Anthem will update the firmware to configure two subs? The Denon AVP can do that and the new SVS AS-EQ1 will be able to do that also. Would it make any sense to use the SVS AS-EQ1 with the D2v to calibrate two subs separately? Or would that be a ridiculous waste of money?


----------



## obie_fl

I don't believe you will see a firmware update for the Anthem as it only has one LFE channel (hardware limitation) despite having multiple outputs. I'd like to see a future model with several LFE channels as I have five different powered woofers in my system.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gchuva* /forum/post/15955999
> 
> 
> Regardless of the potential workarounds, is there any likelihood that Anthem will update the firmware to configure two subs? The Denon AVP can do that and the new SVS AS-EQ1 will be able to do that also. Would it make any sense to use the SVS AS-EQ1 with the D2v to calibrate two subs separately? Or would that be a ridiculous waste of money?



Changing the Anthem to provide separately adjustable sub outputs can not be done by firmware change alone.


If your subs are roughly the same distance from the listening position, and if they have their own, internal volume, phase and polarity controls, you do not need separately adjustable sub outputs anyway. Subs are not directional. Once they are phase and volume adjusted (manually) they work together to pressurize the entire room. Adjust volume, phase, and polarity manually on each (one sub powered at a time), then turn them all on and let ARC hear all of them at the same time during ARC setup.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/15956762
> 
> 
> I don't believe you will see a firmware update for the Anthem as it only has one LFE channel (hardware limitation) despite having multiple outputs. I'd like to see a future model with several LFE channels as I have five different powered woofers in my system.




Yeah, I don't see having 2 separate sub outputs helping in that case, I have 3 and just need to wire up my 4th for my room, having multiple subs really complicates things from a signal feed standpoint, but it also makes things easier at the same time smoothing out response really nicely, obviously depending on the room....


Finally getting my 3rd 18" sealed driver up and running, EQ'd with SMS, I almost get a flat response untouched aside from boosting the low end. Now to add the 4th...


Oh and BTW, I guess you'll see me in here more often..... Pulled the trigger yesterday on a D2v....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zr123* /forum/post/15955978
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> The 30ft HDMI cable was pre-wired into the room prior to construction. So it's behind drywall, etc.
> 
> 
> The equipment is actually on a rack, which is wall mounted.
> 
> 
> All of this makes it completely impossible to move anything around.
> 
> 
> Do you know/think if an amplifier or booster (HDMI) would help?



I haven't really investigated HDMI signal amps, but understand that what screws up an HDMI signal is not the strength of the signal, but the fact that different frequencies in the signal propagate through the cable differently -- different reflection and distortion characteristics. (Better cables do a better job of minimizing that.) So simply feeding a stronger signal in just ends up with a stronger version of the damaged result if the cable is marginal. What's needed is a signal re-equalization that extracts the good part of the signal from the noise.


I would suggest you do the following: Get the best cable of the right length from, say Blue Jeans cable -- which is a relatively modest expense given their pricing -- and hook it up directly (not run through the walls). That way you'll be able to verify that the problem really is that current cable run through the walls. At that point you can consider options for active signal improvers or for fishing a new cable run through the walls. Typically you can fish a new cable run by making modest sizes holes in the wall at a few locations that can then be patched, skim coated, and painted in the usual manner. Done right, the end result looks perfect.


It is also possible that a newer projector will work better with the current cable. HDMI V1.3 chips have additional built-in signal EQ processing not present in older style HDMI chips. So a newer HDMI V1.3 projector just might work better over the existing cable given the HDMI V1.3c chips in the D2v or AVM 50v.


------------------------------------------------


If the trial cable -- the one not run through the walls -- doesn't fix the problem, then there's some more detective work that needs to be done.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15958011
> 
> 
> Pulled the trigger yesterday on a D2v....



I hope you realize it is people like you that are making the D2v backordered for everybody else!










--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I agree that integrating multiple subwoofers is easier if they are treated as one system. My desire for additional LFE channels has more to with my desire to keep redirected bass (i.e. stereo bass) and LFE separated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/15955757
> 
> 
> For every firmware I have tried in the past, all worked perfect with this usb/vista combo.



Consider the combo of devices you have turned on in the Vista setup compared to the last time the USB adapter worked well. For example, turning on a Bluetooth setup or wifi setup or any low speed device like a modem or even a built in mic may have caused Vista to re-assign resources that are screwing up the USB adapter.


In addition, consider carefully whether you've got any new software that might be running in the background during the firmware installs. Virus checkers for instance.


The main difference between ARC setup and the firmware installs is the amount of time the firmware install takes transferring over the serial connection. That leaves more time for some background software to pop up and interfere with performance over the serial cable.


Heck, the difference may even be something that came from Microsoft via Windows Update.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/15958153
> 
> 
> I agree that integrating multiple subwoofers is easier if they are treated as one system. My desire for additional LFE channels has more to with my desire to keep redirected bass (i.e. stereo bass) and LFE separated.



Interesting! I'm curious, why would you want to do that?

--Bob


----------



## noah katz

"Subs are not directional. Once they are phase and volume adjusted (manually) they work together to pressurize the entire room."


Besides your caveat of the subs being equidistant from the listening position, this starts to become true only at freq below the room's 1st mode freq, and is only fully true at 0 Hz and with a perfectly sealed room and infinitely stiff boundaries.


Still, this is somewhat of a theoretical nitpick; having bass EQ at all is a huge benefit.


----------



## jclem

I downloaded, successfully, 2.02c and arc from it's disc. I'm now trying to move to the new SW. I DL'ed 2.03b successfully, uninstalled Arc 1.01 and installed 1.01.1. However, when I tried to run it, it found the D2v but not the mic. At no point was I asked to enter the mic's serial number, which I know is the problem. How do I give it the mic info? Please keep in mind that I'm a computer dummy and need some spoon feeding.

When I did it the first time, it was from the Arc disc so I know it fed the info automatically. Now it's relying on me to do it. Thanks


----------



## obie_fl

Lexicon and others were big proponents of keeping the two separated. They used to have a white paper on it, I'll see if I can find it. In my particular case it also has to do with my mains having built in powered woofers which I'd like to keep the LFE out of but also be able to use a crossover and low level outputs.


A casual google and a quick look at the Lexicon site didn't turn up the paper. I'll try to find it later when I have more time.


Be interesting if Roger or Marc have anything to say about separated LFE and "stereo" bass.


ETA: I believe it was David Griesinger who was the big proponent of stereo bass and keeping LFE separated. His website has a bunch of white papers so plan on spending some time there if you are into geeky audio theory.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/15958406
> 
> 
> I downloaded, successfully, 2.02c and arc from it's disc. I'm now trying to move to the new SW. I DL'ed 2.03b successfully, uninstalled Arc 1.01 and installed 1.01.1. However, when I tried to run it, it found the D2v but not the mic. At no point was I asked to enter the mic's serial number, which I know is the problem. How do I give it the mic info? Please keep in mind that I'm a computer dummy and need some spoon feeding.
> 
> When I did it the first time, it was from the Arc disc so I know it fed the info automatically. Now it's relying on me to do it. Thanks



I presume the two ARC versions you are dealing with are actually "official" ARC V2.0.1 and "test" ARC V2.0.1.1, right?


From the Start button, go to My Computer and find your original ARC install CD. (If the ARC installer pops up when you insert the CD, just exit from that installer.) On the CD you will find the original ARC installation software and you will also find two files with names made up of numbers. These are your ARC license and the calibration data for your ARC mic. The numbers will be the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC mic.


Now in My Computer, go to your main disk drive (usually C: ) and find Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction. In there should be the ARC version you just installed. Copy the two numbered licensing/calibration files from your original ARC install CD into that folder containing the ARC application in Program Files.


-----------------------------------------------


When you uninstalled the older version of ARC, a shortcut to it may have been left on your desktop. When you installed the new version a new shortcut should have been created on your desktop. Be sure you are using the new shortcut to run the newly installed version of ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/15958529
> 
> 
> Lexicon and others were big proponents of keeping the two separated. They used to have a white paper on it, I'll see if I can find it. In my particular case it also has to do with my mains having built in powered woofers which I'd like to keep the LFE out of but also be able to use a crossover and low level outputs.
> 
> 
> A casual google and a quick look at the Lexicon site didn't turn up the paper. I'll try to find it later when I have more time.
> 
> 
> Be interesting if Roger or Marc have anything to say about separated LFE and "stereo" bass.



If you have a separate sub for LFE in addition to the powered woofers on your LF/RF, then you can get what you want simply by telling ARC to run the LF/RF (including their powered woofers) as "full range" and to include your separate sub in the configuration as well.


In that case there will be no bass steering from LF/RF to your separate sub and no LFE will be sent to LF/RF.


Your separate sub will get all the LFE plus any bass steered to it from the surrounds.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15958681
> 
> 
> If you have a separate sub for LFE in addition to the powered woofers on your LF/RF, then you can get what you want simply by telling ARC to run the LF/RF (including their powered woofers) as "full range" and to include your separate sub in the configuration as well.



Agreed but I'm still stuck using the high level signal and I also get the same signal going to the powered woofer and the woofer array in the main speaker. The woofer power amp doesn't high pass so it just passes the signal up to the mains.


Check out David Griesinger's white papers I linked above for more on stereo bass.


----------



## jclem

Bob, I went to My computer--C drive--program files--Anthem--Anthem Room correction. In that "window" are 6 files(I guess). one called Manuals, one with the 2 correct numbers, the words File file 1kb, one with the correct numbers the words Cal file 10kb, one with Anthem av rs232, one called Recal data.cal, cal file 10kb and the red flag ARC file. So it seems that the correct numbers files are there, but I tried to start the ARC by double clicking that red flag(just to be sure it's the 2.01.1) and it started, found the unit but the same error message then pops up telling me "error measurement was not able to acquire proper response" What am I doing wrong, now? Thanks


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/15959250
> 
> 
> Bob, I went to My computer--C drive--program files--Anthem--Anthem Room correction. In that "window" are 6 files(I guess). one called Manuals, one with the 2 correct numbers, the words File file 1kb, one with the correct numbers the words Cal file 10kb, one with Anthem av rs232, one called Recal data.cal, cal file 10kb and the red flag ARC file. So it seems that the correct numbers files are there, but I tried to start the ARC by double clicking that red flag(just to be sure it's the 2.01.1) and it started, found the unit but the same error message then pops up telling me "error measurement was not able to acquire proper response" What am I doing wrong, now? Thanks



Did you factory reset your D2v? What OS and RS232 adapter are you using?


----------



## jclem

By reset, if you mean toggle the switch on the back, then no and I will try that. If you mean, did I load factory settings and then reinstall mine after the successful install of the 2.03b, then 'yes' I did do that.

I'm using windows xp with the usb that everyone on here has rec'd and I have been using successfully for dl'ing new SW. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/15959250
> 
> 
> Bob, I went to My computer--C drive--program files--Anthem--Anthem Room correction. In that "window" are 6 files(I guess). one called Manuals, one with the 2 correct numbers, the words File file 1kb, one with the correct numbers the words Cal file 10kb, one with Anthem av rs232, one called Recal data.cal, cal file 10kb and the red flag ARC file. So it seems that the correct numbers files are there, but I tried to start the ARC by double clicking that red flag(just to be sure it's the 2.01.1) and it started, found the unit but the same error message then pops up telling me "error measurement was not able to acquire proper response" What am I doing wrong, now? Thanks



Double check that the USB cable is properly plugged in at your computer and at the ARC mic.


If that doesn't result in it working, then give Anthem tech support a call.


You probably need to uninstall the new ARC and re-install it or something like that but it is much easier to diagnose this if you are on the phone with someone while the computer is in front of you rather than by posts. For example you may need to go into Windows Hardware Manager to see if it is showing any problems on the USB mic connection -- perhaps due to other hardware you have active in the computer.


ETA: If you haven't done so already, try rebooting your computer. That is sometimes all it takes to clear drivers problems in Windows.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15943072
> 
> 
> Keep looking. It is unusual for a source to offer 4:2:2 output but not offer a way to defeat it. 4:4:4 output is the default for HDMI to HDMI connections.
> 
> 
> The 5910 undoubtedly finds out during the HDMI handshake that the D2 accepts 4:2:2, which is why it is offering it.
> 
> 
> If you can't change it in the 5910, then don't worry about it. 4:2:2 input into the D2 should work just fine, and I'm sure the 5910 is generating it correctly.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I cannot find anything in the 5910's setup menu that will permit me to select 4:4:4/4:2:2. Tried all manner of settings, but the D2 keeps saying it's receivin4:2:2. I think it's self selecting or something.


BTW, the 5910 does not output 480i via HDMI, only 480p or higher. Would that make a difference? Component output is at 480i which the D2 says is 4:4:4.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/15960103
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I cannot find anything in the 5910's setup menu that will permit me to select 4:4:4/4:2:2. Tried all manner of settings, but the D2 keeps saying it's receivin4:2:2. I think it's self selecting or something.
> 
> 
> BTW, the 5910 does not output 480i via HDMI, only 480p or higher. Would that make a difference? Component output is at 480i which the D2 says is 4:4:4.
> 
> 
> Ben



My recollection is that the 5910 has excellent de-interlacing of 480i (off the disc) to 480p, so you are probably fine to use HDMI 480p from it. But it is easy enough to hook it up both ways and compare Component 480i (leaving it to the Anthem to do the de-interlacing). Just be sure you separately adjust the video levels for each way so that it is a fair comparison.


Again, I wouldn't worry about the fact that the 5910 has settled on 4:2:2 for HDMI, although it is surprising they don't offer a way to control that.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

Anthem tech solved the problem--the triggers were messed up so the amps weren't turning on when the anthem was turned on. So


So now I have some new graphs. Unfortunately, I don't think these look as good as the ones when I was using 2.02c and arc 1.01.

These are with 2.03b and arc 1.01.1

It looks to me like arc was not able to do much correction on my Lf and Rf above about 7khz even though I switch the target to 20.

What do you think? Thanks


My previous graphs are at post #19601 for comparison. I did change the mic positions a little bit but not that much.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/15961190
> 
> 
> Anthem tech solved the problem--the triggers were messed up so the amps weren't turning on when the anthem was turned on. So
> 
> 
> So now I have some new graphs. Unfortunately, I don't think these look as good as the ones when I was using 2.02c and arc 1.01.
> 
> These are with 2.03b and arc 1.01.1
> 
> It looks to me like arc was not able to do much correction on my Lf and Rf above about 7khz even though I switch the target to 20.
> 
> What do you think? Thanks
> 
> 
> My previous graphs are at post #19601 for comparison. I did change the mic positions a little bit but not that much.



First of all, I'm glad you are up and running again. Your report on the Triggers setup error is interesting! We've had a few reports recently of folks discovering their Setup > Trigger settings got messed up, but I don't think we've nailed down just what is doing this.


Do you have any idea why your Trigger settings got messed up? Do you think it was a result of your V2.03b firmware install?


Or did you perhaps not capture those Trigger settings into Saved User Settings prior to the firmware install (which means they didn't get restored correctly after the install)?


-----------------------------------


As to your ARC results, first, I noticed in Targets that you only changed the Max EQ Frequency value for the Movie configuration. If you are actually using the Music configuration you will want to change both of those settings.


Your current Music configuration is identical to your Movie configuration -- even though you didn't select the option to set them up identically -- so maybe you are not actually using the Music configuration for any of your sources.


I suspect what is going on in the high frequencies is that ARC simply ran out of resources due to the work it is doing in the lower frequencies.


For example, LF/RF require quite a cut in the bass, and LS/RS require a boost over a wide range of bass and low-midrange frequencies.


The answer here is to probably tackle the excess Measured bass from LF/RF in the 30Hz to 125Hz range. That will allow ARC to raise the volume trim for LF/RF and make it easier for it to correct at the highest frequencies as well. The excess bass from LF/RF doesn't look like a room issue (because it spans a 2 octave range), but rather like the bass output configuration is incorrect for those two speakers. Check to see if they have a bass port that you can close. Or if they have powered woofers or satellite subs, lower the volume on those a bit.


My guess would be that you'll only have to make modest reductions in their bass to let ARC produce a better solution.


Meanwhile LS/RS are weak in bass over an even broader range of frequencies -- extending up into the low midrange. ARC has corrected that, but I think it may be using resources there that would otherwise go to helping the high frequencies in LR/RR.


Once again the answer is to look to see if LS/RS have a bass output adjustment of any sort.


Now LR/RR only need correction in high frequency because of the sharp dip at 15KHz, which is really more than ARC will try to fully correct (although you ought to be getting about half of that corrected if you can free up the resources). This dip is typical of a pointing error -- high frequency dispersion from speakers is usually quite directional. If LR/RR are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing as many speakers have poorer dispersion of high frequencies in the vertical direction than they do in the horizontal.


You can also lose high frequencies like this if there is some sort of obstruction in front of the tweeter -- perhaps a mount for the speaker grill.


If you can adjust LR/RR to produce a few more dB at those high frequencies, I think ARC may take it from there and correct the rest.


-------------------------------------------


I suspect the reason you are seeing a difference in results here compared to the "official" ARC V2.0.1 is that "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 seems to be putting more emphasis on correcting and extending very low frequency bass output.


But we are all still learning what this "test" ARC does, so I may be completely wrong on this.


ETA: By the way, even with the issues I addressed above, this ARC solution doesn't look all that bad at all! It should sound quite good even if you make no further changes -- except that Music won't be corrected as far up as Movie.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15958236
> 
> 
> Consider the combo of devices you have turned on in the Vista setup compared to the last time the USB adapter worked well. For example, turning on a Bluetooth setup or wifi setup or any low speed device like a modem or even a built in mic may have caused Vista to re-assign resources that are screwing up the USB adapter.
> 
> 
> In addition, consider carefully whether you've got any new software that might be running in the background during the firmware installs. Virus checkers for instance.
> 
> 
> The main difference between ARC setup and the firmware installs is the amount of time the firmware install takes transferring over the serial connection. That leaves more time for some background software to pop up and interfere with performance over the serial cable.
> 
> 
> Heck, the difference may even be something that came from Microsoft via Windows Update.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the info Bob..











Vista is for sure a strange animal...







Just strange that firmware 2.01 works great, but, if doing the new beta, it fails (even if installed right after the 2.01...)


Oh well, got the baby going, and now time to enjoy..










Thanks again..


----------



## shawnwalters

Man, I'm trying to read up on some of this thread so I can be ready for my avm50v when it comes, and I gotta say Bob is awesome. I can't believe how much he helps everyone out and how much he knows.


I hope he doesn't quit before mine comes and before I figure out how ARC works.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/15963851
> 
> 
> Man, I'm trying to read up on some of this thread so I can be ready for my avm50v when it comes, and I gotta say Bob is awesome. I can't believe how much he helps everyone out and how much he knows.
> 
> 
> I hope he doesn't quit before mine comes and before I figure out how ARC works.



^^^^@$$ Ki$$^^^^










+1


Bob is the omnipotent, all knowing god of All things Anthem...


----------



## jclem

Bob, Thanks for the detailed input.


Regarding the triggers--I'm not sure what happened there. I know when I dl'ed 2.03b, I reset factory and then reloaded mine. It's entirely possible I did something wrong, however.


Regarding the music setting-- I just forgot about it since movies/tv are the focus for my HT. I'll either check the "same as movie" box or at least adjust the max EQ freq. Thanks for pointing that out.


I'll look into the details for my LF and RF. They are Thiel MCS1's which are enclosed in a cabinet with factory grills off but speaker cloth in front. I think they have some adjustment capabilities.


When you mentioned the bass weakness in the LS/RS did you mean LR/RR? You did bring up their bass weakness in my previous graphs. All 4 are in-wall speakers. LS & RS are now Thiel powerplanes and the rears are old, small Legacy's. I hope to change them sometime.


I'll see what I can do about making some adjustments. It is good to hear, however, that my Arc solution isn't too bad. I haven't done any listening yet, but I did with the older software and ARC made a REALLY nice difference.

It is quite curious, however, that the 2.02c/2.01 graphs vs the 2.03b/2.01.1 were so different. Maybe the arc 2.01 is better for my room??

I still look forward to hearing the new setup.


Thanks very much. I'm sure I'll be back here.


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/15963851
> 
> 
> Man, I'm trying to read up on some of this thread so I can be ready for my avm50v when it comes, and I gotta say Bob is awesome. I can't believe how much he helps everyone out and how much he knows.
> 
> 
> I hope he doesn't quit before mine comes and before I figure out how ARC works.




Yes, Bob's an incredibly helpful and PATIENT man!!!!!! I sure hope Anthem compensates him somehow.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We here at "Bob Pariseau" thank you for your kind words!


As for compensation, our supervisors have been kind enough to point out we seem altogether happy enough living in caves on the edge of town, and foraging for food....










--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Yea but those caves have some killer A/V systems installed...total light control awesome.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I use Trigger 3 to trigger the motor that rolls the rock across the front of the cave entrance...

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just found a short blurb on the D2v from Anthem's distributor in Ireland:

http://www.acousticimages.ie/index.p...3d21fc22f93242 


Note that this says the MSRP is 9,500 Euros as opposed to the 8,500 stated by the UK distributor from the same show in Bristol


Is there really a 1,000 Euro difference in pricing between UK and Ireland? Sheesh!

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15961048
> 
> 
> My recollection is that the 5910 has excellent de-interlacing of 480i (off the disc) to 480p, so you are probably fine to use HDMI 480p from it. But it is easy enough to hook it up both ways and compare Component 480i (leaving it to the Anthem to do the de-interlacing). Just be sure you separately adjust the video levels for each way so that it is a fair comparison.



Yes, Bob, I was comparing. That's why I noticed the data difference between the two and got curious enough to bother you. I can tell you that HDMI does give me a sharper picture despite the deinterlacing being done by the 5910 instead of the D2.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15961048
> 
> 
> Again, I wouldn't worry about the fact that the 5910 has settled on 4:2:2 for HDMI, although it is surprising they don't offer a way to control that.
> 
> --Bob



I am surprised too, which is unusual for a player of this caliber. My Pioneer 79AVi, which has a poorer test score from Secrets, does though.


Thanks for your patience.

Ben


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15966890
> 
> 
> 
> Is there really a 1,000 Euro difference in pricing between UK and Ireland? Sheesh!
> 
> --Bob



British pounds / Irish Euros.


9,500 Euros = 8,500 Pounds = 12,000 USD


----------



## my2cents

I have a situation in my ARC correction that I hope someone can clear up for me I'm attaching files below. In addition to those files, my crossovers calculated and uploaded by ARC are as follows:

L/R front: 40

Ctr: 115

L/R Sur: 140

L/R Rear: 60

Sub/LFE: 115


My questions are this: Looking at my subwoofer (Paradigm Servo 15), ARC target cutoff is 80 hz, which is about 5 db down from my 73db target, and about 10 db down at 100 hz,


1. Why is the sub crossover at 115 hz, when useable sound is over 10db down at that frequency


2. Where is my LFE info from the higher crossover speakers, such as the center and especially surround, going with the sub cutoff and crossed over as it is?


Thanks


----------



## jclem

I looked into the specs for my LF/RF speakers and found there is no "adjustability" so just for the heck of it, I decided to remove the test Arc 2.0.1.1 and re-tested with the "official" Arc 2.01 and sw 2.03b. I've included the new graphs for comparison. It looked to me like the 'official' Arc did a better job with my room, so I uploaded these into my unit. I've only listened a little but so far it sounds quite good--MUCH better than before Arc, better than my first try with sw 2.02c and arc 2.01 and max eq still at 5k. Seems at least as good as if not better than the most recent one with sw 2.03b and the 'test' arc.

What to do think of the graph differences?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15968963
> 
> 
> British pounds / Irish Euros.
> 
> 
> 9,500 Euros = 8,500 Pounds = 12,000 USD



Ah! Thanks for that! As a provincial American I mistakenly assumed the UK MSRP was also quoted in Euros.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/15969021
> 
> 
> I have a situation in my ARC correction that I hope someone can clear up for me I'm attaching files below. In addition to those files, my crossovers calculated and uploaded by ARC are as follows:
> 
> L/R front: 40
> 
> Ctr: 115
> 
> L/R Sur: 140
> 
> L/R Rear: 60
> 
> Sub/LFE: 115
> 
> 
> My questions are this: Looking at my subwoofer (Paradigm Servo 15), ARC target cutoff is 80 hz, which is about 5 db down from my 73db target, and about 10 db down at 100 hz,
> 
> 
> 1. Why is the sub crossover at 115 hz, when useable sound is over 10db down at that frequency
> 
> 
> 2. Where is my LFE info from the higher crossover speakers, such as the center and especially surround, going with the sub cutoff and crossed over as it is?
> 
> 
> Thanks



This is an excellent question, and we haven't really seen any sort of detailed explanation from Anthem on the different impacts of cross-over and cutoff.


Apparently ARC has set a high crossover on the sub so that it can capture, without attenuation, bass steered to it from the LS/RS and C channels -- which also need a high crossover due to their weak Measured response in low mid-range and bass.


What we don't know is how that steered bass interacts with the Room Correction "cutoff" ARC is also applying -- and which is reflected in the subwoofer curves.


My guess would be that steered bass in the 115Hz range is being sent through the sub unattenuated from LS/RS/C but that the Room Correction processing is not trying as hard to eliminate room response issues for the sub between 80Hz and 115Hz. I.e., it is focussing on making bass mesh best with the good output from LF/RF.


But you've got such an extreme case here I think it would be helpful if you asked this question of Anthem tech support and see what they say. Please do report back!


Attach a copy of your ARC results file to the email to Anthem (not the captured images of the ARC charts). Anthem can extract much more info from your ARC results file than shows in the charts.


ARC implementation curiosity aside, how does it sound?


-----------------------------------------------


Based on your charts, the high bass frequency output from your sub (before ARC starts correcting) looks like it is already attenuated. Double check to make sure you haven't mistakenly left the internal crossover in the sub engaged. Bypass the internal crossover built into the sub (a switch setting or perhaps a separate set of input jacks), or if there is no way to do so, crank up the sub's internal crossover setting to the highest possible frequency to get that crossover out of the way as much as possible.


LS/RS also look like they may have been misconfigured for bass. The Measured boost at 200Hz and the Measured drop off below 100Hz would be typical of configuring their response to produce more mid-range and less bass. Check to see if they have a bass port that can be opened/closed to adjust their response. Also play some content and put your ear up close to the woofer in LS/RS and make sure it is playing sound. If not, check the wire connections. Some speakers have separate input jacks for bass and for higher frequencies -- usually cross connected by bus bars at the speaker so that you only have to run one wire to the speaker. Stereo All audio mode while playing a CD is useful for this test.


Check Center as well for bass output configuration, although its Measured response is not that far out of line with many home theater Center speakers. Some Center speakers have adjustments related to whether they are mounted on a wall or away from a wall. Check yours to see if it is set to attenuate bass and change that if so.


-----------------------------------------------------


Given the gap between the low frequency Measured response of LS/RS in particular (and C to a lesser degree) and the high frequency Measured response of your sub, you have set ARC an impossible task. So the cutoff/crossover issue you've found may simply be ARC's best effort to try to do the best it can.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/15969632
> 
> 
> I looked into the specs for my LF/RF speakers and found there is no "adjustability" so just for the heck of it, I decided to remove the test Arc 2.0.1.1 and re-tested with the "official" Arc 2.01 and sw 2.03b. I've included the new graphs for comparison. It looked to me like the 'official' Arc did a better job with my room, so I uploaded these into my unit. I've only listened a little but so far it sounds quite good--MUCH better than before Arc, better than my first try with sw 2.02c and arc 2.01 and max eq still at 5k. Seems at least as good as if not better than the most recent one with sw 2.03b and the 'test' arc.
> 
> What to do think of the graph differences?



These results look fine to me. I would expect them to sound quite good indeed.


You may have encountered a case where the changes implemented for "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 -- particularly its greater emphasis on subsonic bass -- produce a down-side.


I notice that you lowered Max EQ Frequency target to 18KHz for these. Did you also try that with "test" ARC V2.0.1.1?


You might want to email this ARC V2.0.1 results file along with your best "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 results file to Anthem tech support along with a description of the downside you are hearing with the "test" ARC.


Of course if you weren't actually hearing anything wrong with the "test" ARC version then there's not much to discuss. The results you hear mean much more than the charts you see -- particularly as regards the highest frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New Anthem Backorder Report Available!*


The US distributor which has been posting the periodic Paradigm/Anthem backorder reports on-line has just posted a new one dated March 2:

http://www.amgav.com/docs/paradigmin...atusreport.pdf 


It lists a March 10 date for all versions of the AVM 50v and Statement D2v.


We still don't know for sure what these dates mean.


My best guess is that they mean that all orders placed (through the dealer and distributor) with Anthem prior to March 2 are expected to ship from the factory by March 10. Actual arrival at the dealer would depend on shipping/customs delays.


As before, these reports refer to the North American market, so you can draw no conclusions from the fact that the high voltage (220V) versions are not mentioned.

--Bob


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15970045
> 
> 
> This is an excellent question, and we haven't really seen any sort of detailed explanation from Anthem on the different impacts of cross-over and cutoff.
> 
> 
> Apparently ARC has set a high crossover on the sub so that it can capture, without attenuation, bass steered to it from the LS/RS and C channels -- which also need a high crossover due to their weak Measured response in low mid-range and bass.
> 
> 
> What we don't know is how that steered bass interacts with the Room Correction "cutoff" ARC is also applying -- and which is reflected in the subwoofer curves.
> 
> 
> My guess would be that steered bass in the 115Hz range is being sent through the sub unattenuated from LS/RS/C but that the Room Correction processing is not trying as hard to eliminate room response issues for the sub between 80Hz and 115Hz. I.e., it is focussing on making bass mesh best with the good output from LF/RF.
> 
> 
> But you've got such an extreme case here I think it would be helpful if you asked this question of Anthem tech support and see what they say. Please do report back!
> 
> 
> Attach a copy of your ARC results file to the email to Anthem (not the captured images of the ARC charts). Anthem can extract much more info from your ARC results file than shows in the charts.
> 
> 
> ARC implementation curiosity aside, how does it sound?
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Based on your charts, the high bass frequency output from your sub (before ARC starts correcting) looks like it is already attenuated. Double check to make sure you haven't mistakenly left the internal crossover in the sub engaged. Bypass the internal crossover built into the sub (a switch setting or perhaps a separate set of input jacks), or if there is no way to do so, crank up the sub's internal crossover setting to the highest possible frequency to get that crossover out of the way as much as possible.
> 
> 
> LS/RS also look like they may have been misconfigured for bass. The Measured boost at 200Hz and the Measured drop off below 100Hz would be typical of configuring their response to produce more mid-range and less bass. Check to see if they have a bass port that can be opened/closed to adjust their response. Also play some content and put your ear up close to the woofer in LS/RS and make sure it is playing sound. If not, check the wire connections. Some speakers have separate input jacks for bass and for higher frequencies -- usually cross connected by bus bars at the speaker so that you only have to run one wire to the speaker. Stereo All audio mode while playing a CD is useful for this test.
> 
> 
> Check Center as well for bass output configuration, although its Measured response is not that far out of line with many home theater Center speakers. Some Center speakers have adjustments related to whether they are mounted on a wall or away from a wall. Check yours to see if it is set to attenuate bass and change that if so.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Given the gap between the low frequency Measured response of LS/RS in particular (and C to a lesser degree) and the high frequency Measured response of your sub, you have set ARC an impossible task. So the cutoff/crossover issue you've found may simply be ARC's best effort to try to do the best it can.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks as usual for your insight. Here's some facts about my setup:


1. The Paradigm servo 15 used an outboard xover which I'm not using - I'm sending my D2's sub output directly to the low level input of the sub - there are no adjustments other than volume and on/off. I don't know why it appears to be dropping off lower than that. I could adjust the cutoff up higher, but I'm not sure that would help. I was looking back at some measurements I did on earlier versions of ARC and the sub hi freq seemed to measure up higher than it does on versions from 2.0 on out. Anybody else see that? The only physical movement of the sub has been from dead center along the back wall to about 2 ft off center on the same wall. The front is not blocked from the measurement point.


2. My LS/RS are Axiom QS8's. Their advertised response is down 3db at 95 Hz., so I can't expect much more out of them. This is the way that a lot of surrounds are - many can't match up to the THX std.


3. My center is about 28" off the floor and about 3' from the back wall - it is rear ported, so moving it back towards the wall might help the bass. I was trying to put it out in plane with my L and R fronts.


4. I'm currently using ARC 2.01 on my D2 with 1.33 firmware


5. The system sounds pretty good, but on some movies, I detect some thinness in the low-mid bass area. Real low bass comes through well, but it might be thin in the area we're talking about.


Here's a crazy thought - do I need to defeat or turn off the ARC correction before I take a new measurement? I've only reset the crossovers and level as you have recommended, but haven't turned off the equalizer.


Also, is it possible that ARC sends LFE to the LF/RF if the sub doesn't respond up high enough? Just a thought.


Thanks.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15970325
> 
> *New Anthem Backorder Report Available!*
> 
> 
> It lists a March 10 date for all versions of the AVM 50v and Statement D2v.



I'm lined up for a brand new / replacement D2v and my dealer expects it to be with him on March 10th, so that pretty much lines up Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/15970550
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks as usual for your insight. Here's some facts about my setup:
> 
> 
> 1. The Paradigm servo 15 used an outboard xover which I'm not using - I'm sending my D2's sub output directly to the low level input of the sub - there are no adjustments other than volume and on/off. I don't know why it appears to be dropping off lower than that. I could adjust the cutoff up higher, but I'm not sure that would help. I was looking back at some measurements I did on earlier versions of ARC and the sub hi freq seemed to measure up higher than it does on versions from 2.0 on out. Anybody else see that? The only physical movement of the sub has been from dead center along the back wall to about 2 ft off center on the same wall. The front is not blocked from the measurement point.
> 
> 
> 2. My LS/RS are Axiom QS8's. Their advertised response is down 3db at 95 Hz., so I can't expect much more out of them. This is the way that a lot of surrounds are - many can't match up to the THX std.
> 
> 
> 3. My center is about 28" off the floor and about 3' from the back wall - it is rear ported, so moving it back towards the wall might help the bass. I was trying to put it out in plane with my L and R fronts.
> 
> 
> 4. I'm currently using ARC 2.01 on my D2 with 1.33 firmware
> 
> 
> 5. The system sounds pretty good, but on some movies, I detect some thinness in the low-mid bass area. Real low bass comes through well, but it might be thin in the area we're talking about.
> 
> 
> Here's a crazy thought - do I need to defeat or turn off the ARC correction before I take a new measurement? I've only reset the crossovers and level as you have recommended, but haven't turned off the equalizer.
> 
> 
> Also, is it possible that ARC sends LFE to the LF/RF if the sub doesn't respond up high enough? Just a thought.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



You might want to give Paradigm a call and see what they have to say about the high bass from the sub.


You are not supposed to have to turn ARC off prior to doing a Measurement pass. The ARC application takes care of all that.


However we've had one case here where it was obvious that failed -- i.e., the Measurements from ALL the speakers where evidently going through the previously loaded ARC setup.


In your case, that's obviously not happening for your other speakers but I suppose it is possible it happened for the sub. Since I don't know how such a failure could occur there's no real way to check except to just do another Measurement pass and see if the sub Measurements, in particular, come out looking more normal.


It really does look like a 60Hz crossover has been applied to the Measured curve for your sub.


If you don't spot an answer, and Paradigm has no suggestions for changing your sub setup, get in touch with Anthem tech support. You may have found a bug in ARC.


In my case, the Measured curves for my sub look very similar for all trials since ARC V1.2.5.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15970325
> 
> *New Anthem Backorder Report Available!*
> 
> 
> The US distributor which has been posting the periodic Paradigm/Anthem backorder reports on-line has just posted a new one dated March 2:
> 
> http://www.amgav.com/docs/paradigmin...atusreport.pdf
> 
> 
> It lists a March 10 date for all versions of the AVM 50v and Statement D2v.
> 
> 
> We still don't know for sure what these dates mean.
> 
> 
> My best guess is that they mean that all orders placed (through the dealer and distributor) with Anthem prior to March 2 are expected to ship from the factory by March 10. Actual arrival at the dealer would depend on shipping/customs delays.
> 
> 
> As before, these reports refer to the North American market, so you can draw no conclusions from the fact that the high voltage (220V) versions are not mentioned.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15970905
> 
> 
> I'm lined up for a brand new / replacement D2v and my dealer expects it to be with him on March 10th, so that pretty much lines up Bob.



Per my communications with Anthem the order from my dealer for my unit, which was ordered by my dealer on January 27, may or may not make it out in the next set of units that should arrive at dealers on March 10.


I am right at the cutoff point.....


They do emergency replacements first (spiderv6 - I think you are getting my unit!) then work their way through the orders in the order they were received.


Mike


----------



## Warpdrv

I ordered my D2v on Monday, I have a feeling that my unit will end up in the next batch, but either way, I have waited longer for lesser gear, so the small wait for this product to me is worth the wait.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15972375
> 
> 
> Per my communications with Anthem the order from my dealer for my unit, which was ordered by my dealer on January 27, may or may not make it out in the next set of units that should arrive at dealers on March 10.
> 
> 
> I am right at the cutoff point.....
> 
> 
> They do emergency replacements first (Spider - I think you are getting my unit!) then work there way through the orders in the order they were received.
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike, actually, I think that I am getting your unit, as Nick advised me that my replacement D2v was shipped from the US distributor on Tuesday.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15973540
> 
> 
> Mike, actually, I think that I am getting your unit, as Nick advised me that my replacement D2v was shipped from the US distributor on Tuesday.



you are also getting a replacement so soon??


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15974285
> 
> 
> you are also getting a replacement so soon??



Yes, I have had issues with the surround speakers since initial setup that have not been able to be rectified via firmware update. Being a D2 owner since it was first released, I was sure from the "get-go" that this was a hardware issue.


But, I have been waiting patiently for over three weeks. Anthem always comes through for its customers (unlike another unnamed CE competitor that begins with the letter "C").:


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15968963
> 
> 
> British pounds / Irish Euros.
> 
> 
> 9,500 Euros = 8,500 Pounds = 12,000 USD



Indeed!


I am happy to be on this side a the Atlantic.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15972375
> 
> 
> Per my communications with Anthem the order from my dealer for my unit, which was ordered by my dealer on January 27, may or may not make it out in the next set of units that should arrive at dealers on March 10.
> 
> 
> I am right at the cutoff point.....
> 
> 
> They do emergency replacements first (spiderv6 - I think you are getting my unit!) then work their way through the orders in the order they were received.
> 
> 
> Mike



This is the reason why we are still waiting on the upgrade program for current D2 owner. They need to empty the backlog of the D2v order before proceeding.


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15970143
> 
> 
> These results look fine to me. I would expect them to sound quite good indeed.
> 
> 
> You may have encountered a case where the changes implemented for "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 -- particularly its greater emphasis on subsonic bass -- produce a down-side.
> 
> 
> I notice that you lowered Max EQ Frequency target to 18KHz for these. Did you also try that with "test" ARC V2.0.1.1?
> 
> 
> You might want to email this ARC V2.0.1 results file along with your best "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 results file to Anthem tech support along with a description of the downside you are hearing with the "test" ARC.
> 
> 
> Of course if you weren't actually hearing anything wrong with the "test" ARC version then there's not much to discuss. The results you hear mean much more than the charts you see -- particularly as regards the highest frequencies.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I kind of arbitrarily backed off to 18khz from 20. You mentioned in a previous post that I might want to back off if I noticed "wobbles" showing up in the lower frequencies as I raised the max EQ. At that time, I did several calc's at 15, 17 and 20, and thought 17 was a decent comprimise, so for this test after going back to Arc 2.0.1, I just decided to use 18. I did Not go back and do the graphs with 2.0.1.1 at 18. I was worn out--too much testing, re-testing, loading, reloading.

I may send the charts to Anthem for their inspection/comparison. If I do, I'll let you know what they say.

Thanks


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/15972375
> 
> 
> They do emergency replacements first (*spiderv6 - I think you are getting my unit!*) then work their way through the orders in the order they were received.
> 
> 
> Mike



Sorry about that......


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New Anthem Press Release Today: Announces D2v Now Shipping!*


Anthem has just today put out a new press release announcing that the Anthem Statement D2v is now shipping. Of course folks following this thread, have known that for a while, but it's good to see that Anthem is bringing the rest of the world up to speed.


From the site of the PR company Paradigm and Anthem use for such things:

http://www.castercomm.com/prView.cfm?cid=111&id=267 



> Quote:
> Anthem, part of Paradigm Electronics Inc, is a leading manufacturer of award-winning high-end electronics for music, home theater, and distributed sound systems, sold internationally under the brand names Anthem® and Anthem® Statement. Anthem products are used at all levels of music reproduction and allow you to virtually "be there" every time you listen to a favorite piece of recorded music or experience the excitement of surround-sound home theater. Headquarters are Mississauga, Canada. Anthem® and Anthem® Statement are trademarks of Anthem/Sonic Frontiers International.
> 
> 
> 
> SUPERPOWERED ANTHEM STATEMENT D2v NOW SHIPPING
> 
> 
> More connections, better A/V processing and support for the latest audio formats make version two of the acclaimed preamplifier/processor an A/V-phile's dream.
> 
> 
> Toronto, Ontario - March 2009 - Anthem, a leading manufacturer of high-end electronics for music, home theater and distributed audio systems, announces the availability of version two of its award-winning Statement D2 audio/video processor. The next-generation model enhances the unparalleled performance features found in its first iteration with significant upgrades.
> 
> 
> As a pioneer in the troubleshooting and integration of HDMI(TM), Anthem knows better than most how to utilize these connections to their fullest. The Statement D2v is equipped with four additional HDMI 1.3c inputs (for a total of eight) and one additional HDMI 1.3c output (for a total of two), delivering unprecedented connection capabilities for a preamplifier/processor. All inputs and outputs offer Deep-Color support (36-bit) and high-definition audio streaming.
> 
> 
> More connections are useful, of course, but performance is king. The Anthem Statement D2v delivers outstanding video enhancement courtesy of its updated VXP® digital image processor. This "latest-generation" processor offers professional-grade, fully-adaptive deinterlacing. Also included are adaptive 3D noise reduction, mosquito noise reduction, block artifact reduction, adaptive detail enhancement featuring sharpness and texture enhancement with overshoot control, and adaptive contrast enhancement. The D2v's powerful, multi-layered graphics engine allows for sophisticated on-screen display generation that is ideal for setup menus.
> 
> 
> Audio performance on the Statement D2v has been ramped up to meet the demands of emerging HD audio standards. Two dual-core digital signal processor (DSP) engines offer 800 MIPS (million instructions per second) of processing power to allow 7.1-channel decoding of Dolby® Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD(TM) High-Resolution Audio and DTS-HD(TM) Master Audio. The Anthem Statement D2v also supports 24/192 PCM audio input, up to 7.1 channels.
> 
> 
> Anthem's Room Correction System (ARC(TM)) is a standard feature on all Statement D2v preamplifier/processors. While equalizing frequency response in a room to achieve some generic (i.e., "flat") response is a common approach, it sounds unnatural because it assumes the listening room is anechoic and does not account for how a speaker sounds in a room. Anthem's true audiophile approach with ARC instead uses proprietary processing to compute each speaker's in-room frequency response and then computes a target frequency response for each to yield the optimal sound.
> 
> 
> Estimated FMV for the Anthem Statement D2v is $7,499. For more information, please visit www.anthemav.com .
> 
> 
> *Key features of VXP(TM) technology include: Superior image quality using per-pixel processing. Very robust film mode detection. TruMotionHD(TM) Adaptive De-Interlacing to ensure optimal image sharpness and picture resolution when converting 480i, 576i and 1080i inputs to progressive scan. FineEdge(TM) Dynamic Directional Interpolation to eliminate jaggy artifacts (i.e. temporal distortion) found in traditional de-interlacing algorithms. FidelityEngine(TM) Image Enhancements to remove unwanted noise and improve detail. RealityExpansion(TM) True 12-Bit Image Processing for eye-catching natural imagery.



I'm pleased to see they finally corrected the VXP feature list at the end of the release to state that the new VXP chip does 12-bit video processing.


I'm not sure why they didn't tout "Dolby Volume" coming as a free, future firmware upgrade in this release.


And also the statement about the HDMI outputs supporting high-definition audio streaming is at best misleading (the HDMI outputs carry a 2-channel stereo down-mix as 48KHz LPCM).


There are also 3 new beauty shots included for the D2v: Front, Rear, and Internals. These images are too huge to include here so I'll just give you the URL where you can go see them yourself:

http://www.castercomm.com/gallery.cfm?cid=111 


One strange thing in these 3 shots is that the Front Panel shot does not show the "Dolby Volume" logo over the display, but the front panel visible in the Internals shot DOES show that logo!


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just got confirmation from Nick that they are, indeed, still working on adding the "Dolby Volume" feature and that, in fact, it is coming along quite nicely!


He says it is very processor intensive (TRANSLATION: Don't hold your breath waiting for it to show up on the original D2 or AVM 50).


He says one of the hang ups right now is that some of the adjustments Dolby offers are poorly named and user unfriendly. I.e., it is far too easy to get confused and make setting changes that result in it sounding awful. So Anthem is trying to clean up the user interface and the descriptions for the manual to minimize that.


On the plus side, he says that when set up correctly it seems to be working quite well across a wide range of audio content types.


--------------------------------------------


He also tossed in that the next "test" firmware release should finally fix the issues with down-mixing 7.1 input to 5.1 speaker output -- bugs that are biting me right now.


He didn't volunteer any status info on the other bugs they are working such as the Component 480i to "anything else" transition bug. I wouldn't be surprised if we get a new "test" firmware release before the weekend, but he didn't give me an ETA.


Last word I got from him a week back was that they had "one more thing" they wanted to get into ARC before "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 became official. No update on that.


ETA: The Front Panel beauty shot with the press release is an old photo dating back to CEDIA last September, before they made the decision to add "Dolby Volume".

--Bob


----------



## drhankz

I just ran ARC 2011b from Scratch.


Everything seemed to run and complete properly.


The one thing I do not remember from previous ARC versions was --

that they wiped all the user settings. I had them saved and I restored

them. So everything is back now.


My QUESTION is - Are the ARC Parameters part of the USER settings?


If they are - then I loaded back OLD data.


If they ARE NOT - then I'm Happy.


----------



## flavorguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15978042
> 
> 
> He didn't volunteer any status info on the other bugs they are working such as the Component 480i to "anything else" transition bug. I wouldn't be surprised if we get a new "test" firmware release before the weekend, but he didn't give me an ETA.
> 
> 
> Last word I got from him a week back was that they had "one more thing" they wanted to get into ARC before "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 became official. No update on that.
> 
> --Bob



I just had my Anthem Dealer out to reinstall the new firmware (they gave me 2.03b and the 2.01.1.1 ARC)..


As reported previously by others - the 480i sync issue is still present.... so my dealer called Anthem and they ended up recommending to change the output of my DirectTV DVR from native to 1080i. Anthem feels that this "sync" issue is due to the DirectTV unit having syncing issues and not the Anthem...... So I now have the DTV receiver scaling 480 i and/or 720 P -> 10180i and then AVM50v deinterlacing to 1080P -> 1080p native projector... seems like a waste since I really paid all that money for the video processing by the new VXP chip....


New question - do I just go back and use a HDMI cable for satellite instead of component? I originally went component so I could channel surf a little more easily without all of the HDMI sync issues.... and some had commented that component video looked just as good, if not better than HDMI video....


----------



## drhankz

I used ARC 2011b to upload the Parameters AGAIN.


This 2nd time it did not WIPE out the User Settings.


I have now done a NEW USER SAVE.


2011b certainly does improve the LFE response.


I have 8 Spectrum Analyzers on the 7.1 output channels and

I can SEE the Spectrum Analyzer on the LFE channel looks much

IMPROVED over 201. I can also see the Power Meters on the LFE

Amplifiers almost hitting 20,000 watts. The first test material I

used was a Tina Turner Concert - only the OPENING numbers

uses special LFE effects.


I'm afraid other test material might drive the LFE Amps to their

Limits. I might have to manually drop the LFE output by 3 DB.

I'll test the other material at lower volume settings to make sure

I don't overdrive the LFE Amps.


Tell NICK - 2011b has the BEST LFE response yet.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15978258
> 
> 
> I just ran ARC 2011b from Scratch.
> 
> 
> Everything seemed to run and complete properly.
> 
> 
> The one thing I do not remember from previous ARC versions was --
> 
> that they wiped all the user settings. I had them saved and I restored
> 
> them. So everything is back now.
> 
> 
> My QUESTION is - Are the ARC Parameters part of the USER settings?
> 
> 
> If they are - then I loaded back OLD data.
> 
> 
> If they ARE NOT - then I'm Happy.



This is a bug. I don't think Anthem yet knows what triggers it. Did you run ARC in the simple, fully automated fashion, or did you run ARC in Advanced mode?


-------------------------------------------------


To recover from this bug you need to do a few things. You already did the first one -- Reloading from Saved User Settings.


Next you need to open your saved file of ARC results in ARC Advanced mode and do a new Upload -- no need to re-Measure or anything else. Just redo the Upload.


When the new Upload completes, go into Setup and check that things appear to be set correctly -- i.e., that it hasn't reverted to Factory Defaults again. If Setup appears correct, then Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the changes that ARC has Uploaded.


-------------------------------------------------


ARC Uploads changes into the Setup menu (which you can capture in User and/or Installer Settings). ARC also Uploads room correction parameters into a special memory that is not part of the Setup menu and is not captured in Saved User or Installer Settings. It isn't even erased by a Reload Factory Defaults.


So what you did to recover has left the Room Correction stuff in place as Uploaded by ARC but you've wiped out the corresponding Setup menu changes ARC also Uploaded by restoring from Saved User Settings.


Again, to fix this, restore from Saved User Settings, re-Upload your latest ARC results using ARC Advanced mode, and, if Setup now looks correct, Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture these Setup changes ARC just Uploaded.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Lest folks get confused, what DRHANKZ means by ARC 2011b is "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 Beta. I.e., there isn't some newer "b" version that he's using.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15978423
> 
> 
> I just had my Anthem Dealer out to reinstall the new firmware (they gave me 2.03b and the 2.01.1.1 ARC)..
> 
> 
> As reported previously by others - the 480i sync issue is still present.... so my dealer called Anthem and they ended up recommending to change the output of my DirectTV DVR from native to 1080i. Anthem feels that this "sync" issue is due to the DirectTV unit having syncing issues and not the Anthem...... So I now have the DTV receiver scaling 480 i and/or 720 P -> 10180i and then AVM50v deinterlacing to 1080P -> 1080p native projector... seems like a waste since I really paid all that money for the video processing by the new VXP chip....
> 
> 
> New question - do I just go back and use a HDMI cable for satellite instead of component? I originally went component so I could channel surf a little more easily without all of the HDMI sync issues.... and some had commented that component video looked just as good, if not better than HDMI video....



I'm having the same Component 480i to "anything else" transition problem with my Comcast/Motorola box. This is definitely a D2v bug. I've given the details to Anthem. We just need to keep poking them until it gets fixed.


You may very well wish to switch to HDMI for the moment. I can't do that because my Comcast/Motorola box has its own bug that shows up on HDMI 480i output -- the infamous Big Green Line on the Right bug. That bug is definitely *NOT* a D2v bug.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k

Just and FYI, as a lurker for quite a while... Here is the e-mail I got from Anthem today regarding the upgrades....


"Hello Darrell,

Details are still being worked out for the upgrade plan including AVM 30/40/50 and D1/D2. Final costing and a technical details are among the items waiting approval. We could see units being upgraded between 60-90 days.



Piero Ferrari

Anthem Tech Support "


They are sooo going to force me into buying that delicious, tasty, better than Bob's cookies D2v. Stopped in my anthem dealer today and almost pulled the trigger. I just wish I had an idea of what the upgrade is going to cost. I currently have a AVM-50. And all these people saying "My D2v just arrived...etc..." is not helping my decision making process at all!










Also found out someone in my area ordered a D2v earlier this week. Planet Audio in Davenport IA is my dealer. Great people too. Have been working with them for a few years. If anyone here just pulled the trigged on a D2v this week from them let me know. Would definitely be interested to know other owners in the area.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's beginning to look like it will take them just as long to get the D2 -> D2v upgrade program going as it took them a few years ago to get the D1 -> D2 upgrade program going.


Then as now, I think the limiting factor was that they couldn't get ahead of the demand for new units.

--Bob


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/15973540
> 
> 
> Mike, actually, I think that I am getting your unit, as Nick advised me that my replacement D2v was shipped from the US distributor on Tuesday.



Replacement D2v was delivered to my dealer late today.


Hopefully, this means that those of you waiting for backordered units will get some fresh Bob Pariseau cookies next week.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Component 480i to "anything else" Transition Bug Confirmed using Oppo*


I've been using my Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player connected to the D2v via HDMI.


For this test, I hooked up Component video and switched the Oppo to Component video output priority.


And I've been able to confirm that the Component 480i to "anything else" transition bug is not something limited just to cable/satellite set top boxes.


Changing output resolutions from the Oppo between Component 480p, 720p, and 1080i in any direction works just fine. Changing from Component 480p, 720p, or 1080i to Component 480i also works just fine.


But changing from Component 480i to Component 480p, 720p or 1080i always results in a corrupted image. The bad imaging can be cured by switching the D2v to a different input and back to the Oppo.


As I said above, this is definitely a D2v bug. Additional info forwarded to Anthem.


ETA: The above is with D2v "test" firmware V2.03b.

--Bob


----------



## flavorguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15979090
> 
> *Component 480i to "anything else" Transition Bug Confirmed using Oppo*....
> 
> As I said above, this is definitely a D2v bug. Additional info forwarded to Anthem.
> 
> 
> ETA: The above is with D2v "test" firmware V2.03b.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - Don't forget about us AVM50v owners as well, since it seems the two of us are fighting the good fight...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/15979248
> 
> 
> Bob - Don't forget about us AVM50v owners as well, since it seems the two of us are fighting the good fight...



Sure. I'm just assuming that any bug worthy of the D2v will also be featured in its faithful sidekick the AVM 50v.


(Particularly video bugs like this since the video hardware is identical in the D2v and AVM 50v.)

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15979429
> 
> 
> Sure. I'm just assuming that any bug worthy of the D2v will also be featured in its faithful sidekick the AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> (Particularly video bugs like this since the video hardware is identical in the D2v and AVM 50v.)
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I'm assuming with the final ARC coming soon that we only have to reprocess our current measurement and then upload.

John


----------



## akopperl

Does anyone have a universal remote that they would recommend for the AVM50v? I'm looking for a remote that already has all/most of the remote codes included in their database - particularly for keys such as the Setup where the key has to be held for an extended period of time.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/15980262
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a universal remote that they would recommend for the AVM50v? I'm looking for a remote that already has all/most of the remote codes included in their database - particularly for keys such as the Setup where the key has to be held for an extended period of time.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I'm using a Harmony 880 remote, and it does all that.


At the time I set it up, the database entry they had for the Anthem was not complete in such details. I spent some time on the phone with their Level 2 tech support people and they made all the necessary changes to make it work.


By now, that stuff should have propagated into their database, but if it hasn't you'll just need to spend time on the phone with them and they really will do what it takes to make it work.


The key is to know what you want the remote to do, and to convince the Level 1 support person that you really need to be put in the queue to talk to Level 2 because some tricky changes need to be made in your configuration.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15979691
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I'm assuming with the final ARC coming soon that we only have to reprocess our current measurement and then upload.
> 
> John



I don't know that this is a safe assumption. We'll have to see what they say when it gets released. Personally, I plan to re-Measure as I do with EVERY "official" release of firmware or of ARC.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/15980262
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a universal remote that they would recommend for the AVM50v? I'm looking for a remote that already has all/most of the remote codes included in their database - particularly for keys such as the Setup where the key has to be held for an extended period of time.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I have a Universal MX-850 that is perfect for the Anthem's, their data base has all the codes and then you can customize by renameing the buttons and using the macros to have one button control over almost anything you want to do.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/15980262
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a universal remote that they would recommend for the AVM50v? I'm looking for a remote that already has all/most of the remote codes included in their database - particularly for keys such as the Setup where the key has to be held for an extended period of time.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I use the URC MX-900 and have been very pleased. Exellent software, data-base and 'learning' mode. You are only limited by your imagination what you can do with it. I'm a computer moron, and I can use their software without a problem.

Google 'remote central' and go to their website. RemoteCentral.com has exellent reviews and info on all the different remotes available. Decide what your budget is for a remote and start hunting.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15979090
> 
> *Component 480i to "anything else" Transition Bug Confirmed using Oppo*
> 
> 
> I've been using my Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player connected to the D2v via HDMI.
> 
> 
> For this test, I hooked up Component video and switched the Oppo to Component video output priority.
> 
> 
> And I've been able to confirm that the Component 480i to "anything else" transition bug is not something limited just to cable/satellite set top boxes.
> 
> 
> Changing output resolutions from the Oppo between Component 480p, 720p, and 1080i in any direction works just fine. Changing from Component 480p, 720p, or 1080i to Component 480i also works just fine.
> 
> 
> But changing from Component 480i to Component 480p, 720p or 1080i always results in a corrupted image. The bad imaging can be cured by switching the D2v to a different input and back to the Oppo.
> 
> 
> As I said above, this is definitely a D2v bug. Additional info forwarded to Anthem.
> 
> 
> ETA: The above is with D2v "test" firmware V2.03b.
> 
> --Bob




I have had a similar problem with my D2 forever, where a resolution switch locks up the D2 and I get a a flashing white screen. Occurs on HDMI or component. My only answer was to lock my resolution to 1080i.


----------



## obie_fl

URC MX-700 here. I just don't trust others to do my remote programing.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15981389
> 
> 
> I don't know that this is a safe assumption. We'll have to see what they say when it gets released. Personally, I plan to re-Measure as I do with EVERY "official" release of firmware or of ARC.
> 
> --Bob




I have a feeling that Bob doesn't even put his mic or mic stand away and its just sitting behind his couch to test out every new release...










How far am I off here Bob....


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15981884
> 
> 
> I have a feeling that Bob doesn't even put his mic or mic stand away and its just sitting behind his couch to test out every new release...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How far am I off here Bob....




LOL... Yea I would say that is a safe bet


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15978637
> 
> 
> This is a bug. I don't think Anthem yet knows what triggers it. Did you run ARC in the simple, fully automated fashion, or did you run ARC in Advanced mode?
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> To recover from this bug you need to do a few things. You already did the first one -- Reloading from Saved User Settings.
> 
> 
> Next you need to open your saved file of ARC results in ARC Advanced mode and do a new Upload -- no need to re-Measure or anything else. Just redo the Upload.
> 
> 
> When the new Upload completes, go into Setup and check that things appear to be set correctly -- i.e., that it hasn't reverted to Factory Defaults again. If Setup appears correct, then Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the changes that ARC has Uploaded.



I only run in Advance mode.


And I did the EXACT procedure you outlined - ON MY OWN!


I'm glad to hear it is a BUG. I'd rather know it is a bug than

me NOT REMEMBERING


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15979090
> 
> 
> *.....always results in a corrupted image. The bad imaging can be cured by switching the D2v to a different input and back to the Oppo.
> *


*


"corrupted image"....do you mean that the bottom half of the screen seems to be repeated as wiggly wavy lines? I'm seeing that on a regular basis from my Comcast/Motorola box.*


----------



## flavorguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15981984
> 
> 
> "corrupted image"....do you mean that the bottom half of the screen seems to be repeated as wiggly wavy lines? I'm seeing that on a regular basis from my Comcast/Motorola box.



I can't speak to the Comcast box, but the video distortion that I see with my DTV DVR (H21?) - when switching from a HD source to a non-HD source and then back to HD source is...


1) flashes of a solid red and/or blue screen for a second 2) video comes on but reverts to a 4:3 aspect ratio, and 3) the video itself has the upper 60% of the picture (with distortion) but the bottom 40% repeats continually from the mid point in narrow horizontal bars (almost looks like fanning out a deck of cards or venetian blinds) 4) The AVM50v displays a "480i" input signal when the DTV is indicating a HD signal (either 720P or 1080i)...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Both of these are good descriptions of the issue.


The Red/Blue flashes are a symptom of the Anthem having trouble syncing with the video. The corrupted imaging that results -- top portion of screen kind of almost correct but bottom portion off screen consisting of repeats of the first 12 lines or so of the top of the image -- is an indication that the video board has not properly synced with the new video.


The fact that the info displays show the correct resolution even when the image is corrupted is additional evidence that the problem is in the Anthem -- i.e., the source is sending the right thing.


------------------------------------------------------


Again, this problem arises when you transition from Component 480i to anything else.


The problem affects only the D2v and AVM 50v. D2 and AVM 50 owners don't get to enjoy this. I'm not sure what firmware others are on at the moment, but I can confirm the problem is still in the V2.03b "test" firmware.


The problem does not occur when transitioning from HDMI 480i. So one workaround is to use HDMI input instead of Component.


When the image is corrupted, momentarily switching the Anthem to a different input and back will cure the problem (assuming the different input is not currently using Component 480i). Once fixed this way, the imaging stays good until the next time you try to transition from Component 480i to anything else. So another workaround is to do this input cycling when the imaging corrupts.


There is never a problem going TO Component 480i. So if the imaging is corrupt and you switch your source back to Component 480i, the image will clear up again.


------------------------------------------------


This is obviously a bug in the D2v and AVM 50v. I'm sure Anthem will correct it in short order.


My guess is it is another symptom of the bug I also reported to Anthem that certain input transitions appear to not load all the correct Video Source Adjust menu settings into the VXP video processor.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15981884
> 
> 
> I have a feeling that Bob doesn't even put his mic or mic stand away and its just sitting behind his couch to test out every new release...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How far am I off here Bob....



My mic sits in its box in a home I have made just for it, and my folded up boom mic stand sits rests in a closet. I actually don't re-Measure all that often since I'm not making any changes in my speaker or listening room.


But I do re-Measure, at the very least, for each new "official" release of ARC or of the firmware. I also re-Measure if I get an indication from Nick that something dramatic has happened in a new "test" version. I'm currently using "test" firmware V2.03b, and ARC Measurements that I made using "test" ARC V2.0.1.1, but while I still had "test" firmware V2.02c loaded.


So see? I still haven't re-Measured for this latest "test" firmware.


In my case Measurement is a bit of a chore since I go through steps to insure the room is configured exactly the way I had it in the past, that the speakers are pointed exactly the same way, and that the mic positions exactly match my last mic positions. I'm doing this because I want to see how repeatable the Measured curves are from release to release. If all I cared about was the results I could actually set things up more quickly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/15981761
> 
> 
> I have had a similar problem with my D2 forever, where a resolution switch locks up the D2 and I get a a flashing white screen. Occurs on HDMI or component. My only answer was to lock my resolution to 1080i.



This is a different problem. What source device is doing this to you?


Each time the input video changes, a new handshake happens on the HDMI video output to your display as well. You don't normally see the flashing of a typical HDMI handshake because the type of video output from the D2 isn't changing, but a copy protection handshake is happening nonetheless. If this issue is happening with both Component and HDMI sources, and from more than one source device, then this is an indication something isn't working right on the display side of your D2.


The usual culprit here would be the HDMI cable from the D2 to the display, but there are other possible causes of this as well.


ETA: One way to test that the problem is on the display side of the D2 is if the problem occurs when you try to bring up the Setup menu. The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source. If you get the video output locked up trying to bring up the Setup menu then you know there is either a hardware failure in the D2 (not that likely) or that something is screwed up on the HDMI connection to the display.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/15981488
> 
> 
> I have a Universal MX-850 that is perfect for the Anthem's, their data base has all the codes and then you can customize by renameing the buttons and using the macros to have one button control over almost anything you want to do.



I, too, use the 850, and it is a wonderful device. (friends always marvel at the lights dimming, the cartoon playing, and then the blu ray shows up, almost seamlessly).

walt


----------



## jayray

New test firmware 2.03d on tech support page. DSP change are significant. This from Nick.

John


----------



## gostan

Beta firmware 2.03.d is now available on the test site.


Changes are as follows:


1. HDCP/HDMI changes for improved handshaking and reduced flashing of output while switching sources.


2. Frame lock is disabled.


3. 480i to 1080i component input fix.


4. Various DSP fixes including a fix for 7.1 input to 5.1 output.


----------



## schlitzie

Why would frame lock be disabled?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *schlitzie* /forum/post/15984571
> 
> 
> Why would frame lock be disabled?



They are hoping to come out with a fix for the upconversion of resolutions up to 1080p/24 which would negate the need for framelock. Framelock seems to be slow at syncing. Sigma is working on the code which will be used for another firmware upgrade for the video board, in the future.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm glad you guys discovered the new "test" D2v/AVM 50v firmware V2.03d on Anthem's password protected download page. [I was busy fighting a fire drill over in Oppo player Beta land (where Friday is Firmware Day!).]


Please note, the fall-back D2v and AVM 50v firmware in that folder is now "test" Version V2.03b. If you prefer to have an older version available as fall-back (i.e., if something nasty happens with the new V2.03d stuff) be sure you keep that separately.


Also, note the important KNOWN ISSUE in V2.03d (see below) that will affect folks running a configuration without a subwoofer.


For completeness here is the entire set of change notes for the V2.xx firmware stream from the initial release of the D2v and AVM 50v:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.03d (beta):
> 
> 
> 1. HDCP/HDMI changes for improved handshaking and reduced flashing of output while switching sources.
> 
> 
> 2. Frame lock is disabled.
> 
> 
> 3. 480i to 1080i component input fix.
> 
> 
> 4. Various DSP fixes including a fix for 7.1 input to 5.1 output.
> 
> 
> 
> VIDEO PROCESSOR SETTINGS WILL BE LOST when this version is installed unless v2.02b or later is now in the processor. If using v2.02a or prior, the settings can be saved and transferred using Live Video Settings Editor.
> 
> 
> Known issue:
> 
> 
> 1. LFE gets redirected incorrectly if you have a speaker configuration without a sub and surrounds or rears are set to Large.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.03b (beta):
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for LFE level bug.
> 
> 
> 2. Further fix for menu 5 test noises (manual).
> 
> 
> 3. New software for video processor and audio DSP chips add stability.
> 
> 
> 4. Separate controls for mosquito vs block noise reduction.
> 
> 
> 5. Zoom removed from video processing since cropping input is the better way to achieve zoom.
> 
> 
> 6. Various minor display changes for status and video processing.
> 
> 
> 
> VIDEO PROCESSOR SETTINGS WILL BE LOST when this version is installed unless v2.02b or later is now in the processor. If using v2.02a or prior, the settings can be saved and transferred using Live Video Settings Editor.
> 
> 
> Known issues:
> 
> 
> 1. 7.1 to 5.1 downmix not working correctly with Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD. A center rear speaker is shown in status when the bug is in effect.
> 
> 
> 2. Frame Lock not working properly - this will not be fixed as inverse telecine is expected to replace it.
> 
> 
> 3. Video adjustments - while adjusting Brightness, Contrast, or Gamma near-black levels change in a seemingly random fashion. This may not be a bug, since making a change affects the while range.
> 
> 
> 4. XA2 - pops while pausing or scanning, audio dropouts while playing.
> 
> 
> 5. HDMI audio output may not work with some displays. In some cases the display may need to be powered on twice to get audio.
> 
> 
> 6. Playstation 3 sometimes does not connect.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.02c (beta):
> 
> 
> Bug fixes for:
> 
> 
> 1. "The Dark Night" BD on PS3 audio dropout at 1:20:07.
> 
> 
> 2. Level Calibration menu.
> 
> 
> 3. 7.1 to 5.1 downmix.
> 
> 
> 4. YCbCr black level / grayscale.
> 
> 
> 5. Various front panel display updates.
> 
> 
> 6. Deep color output.
> 
> 
> 7. Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD work up to 192 kHz.
> 
> 
> 8. PCM input over HDMI now supports up to 192 kHz with all common input configurations (2.0, 2.1, 5.1, 7.1 etc.)
> 
> 
> 9. Rears when 5.1 input is detected with PLIIx Movie applied (switching to None and back was the previous work-around to get sound from rears).
> 
> 
> 
> v2.02:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for audio dropouts with PCM input.
> 
> 
> 2. Fix for ARC test sweeps.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.00 D2v / v2.01 AVM 50v:
> 
> 
> Initial releases.



--------------------------------------------


Nick tells me the "test" package for ARC has also been updated, but just to include some minor adjustments to the D2v and AVM 50v user manuals which are distributed as part of the ARC install kit.


Those manuals do not yet reflect that Frame Lock will be going away soon -- to be replaced by proper reverse telecine support. The manuals also do not yet include the changes coming for "Dolby Volume".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *schlitzie* /forum/post/15984571
> 
> 
> Why would frame lock be disabled?



It's disabled because it is broken in the current firmware.


They currently expect it will be replaced with a new feature, currently in testing, that can be used to do much the same thing only better.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I have installed the new firmware and no problems installing it. It still does not fix the thumping from the sub during hd dvd player during a pause, stop or FF.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

"Test" D2v Firmware V2.03d does indeed appear to fix the Component 480i to "anything else" transition bug.


It looks like it fixes some other video bugs as well that are all tied to getting the proper Video Source Adjust menu settings loaded into the VXP processor each time the video stream changes. But I need to do more looking at that.


So far, no problems with the firmware itself.


However I'm still having problems achieving a good "Get" transfer of the Video Source Adjust menu settings into the Live Video Settings Editor Windows application. Either the transfer never completes or some of the retrieved values are wrong after the Get completes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well I was incorrect in the post above regarding other bugs being fixed.


The Component 480i to "anything else" bug is indeed fixed. That's the good news.


But the strange behaviors I reported earlier related to fixed Component 1080i output and fixed HDMI 1080i output as you change channels on the Comcast HD/DVR are all still there -- no change in behavior with V2.03d. It is evident these are D2v bugs since you can correct each instance by simply toggling between Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Edges Off or Edges On. I.e., the bug is apparently inhibiting the loading of the correct Video Source Adjust menu settings into the VXP video processor when the video input is interrupted during a channel change. At a guess this is related to the aspect ratio flags coming in with the Component and HDMI video input streams.


I've updated Anthem that V2.03d hasn't fixed these issues.


-------------------------------------------------------


I didn't really expect anything different, but I checked and the Big Green Line on the Right bug with HDMI 480i from my Comcast box is still there as well. Again, that's a bug in the Comcast/Motorola DCH-3416 firmware.


--------------------------------------------------------


With the Component 480i fix, however, I can now use my Comcast/Motorola HD/DVR with Component 480i output for SD channels and Component 1080i output for HD channels and EVERYTHING works correctly! And that's good.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Advanced Cadence Detection Now Working in "Test" Firmware V2.03d!*


Well I found an unannounced, unexpected, and entirely pleasant surprise in the V2.03d firmware. Anthem has now enabled Advanced Cadence Detection for de-interlacing of 480i or 1080i film-based content!


[As part of their Blu-Ray player development, Oppo sponsored a brand new Blu-Ray test/calibration disc by Spears & Munsil, and among other things it contains a bunch of tests of film mode and video mode de-interlacing both for HD and SD content.]


Even the odd-ball cadences used in anime and by camcorders are now handled correctly. (This is an improvement over the video processing in the D2 and AVM 50.) The least common cadences take a moment to lock in, but once locked in they stay locked in. And the D2v and AVM 50v fly through "problem edits" without a glitch!


The de-interlacing of 480i and 1080i content, whether film-based or video-based, is now, for all practical purposes, as good as it gets in the D2v and AVM 50v.


Cool!

--Bob


----------



## lashler

I recently installed an Anthem D2V2 pre/pro. Periodically the Bell ExpressVu HD PVR and the Sony 550 Bluray will not output sound or the sound is garbled. To get the sound back I either change to another input and then back gain or turn the D2 off and back on. To cure the PVR issue the installer installed an optical cable to carry the sound. Although this fixes the problem an $8000 processor should work with HDMI and not have to resort to back door mods to make it work. Anybody else having this issue.


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lashler* /forum/post/15987532
> 
> 
> I recently installed an Anthem D2V2 pre/pro. Periodically the Bell ExpressVu HD PVR and the Sony 550 Bluray will not output sound or the sound is garbled. To get the sound back I either change to another input and then back gain or turn the D2 off and back on. To cure the PVR issue the installer installed an optical cable to carry the sound. Although this fixes the problem an $8000 processor should work with HDMI and not have to resort to back door mods to make it work. Anybody else having this issue.



Check your firmware version. 2.00 definately had problems. Most audio problems were solved with 2.02.


----------



## duckwood

Well it does seem they improved the HDMI handshake. I have now had no failures to properly output from the PS3, XBOX360, or Pioneer DVD player all using HDMI. Previous versions would have some garbage displayed and sometimes no image, but sound. Mostly this was a problem with PS3 but did happen on rare occasions with XBOX360.


On a different note, should I expect to see 24fps going to the display when watching a movie from standard DVD (output is set to 480i). Or do I need to wait for telecine?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15987594
> 
> 
> Well it does seem they improved the HDMI handshake. I have now had no failures to properly output from the PS3, XBOX360, or Pioneer DVD player all using HDMI. Previous versions would have some garbage displayed and sometimes no image, but sound. Mostly this was a problem with PS3 but did happen on rare occasions with XBOX360.
> 
> 
> On a different note, should I expect to see 24fps going to the display when watching a movie from standard DVD (output is set to 480i). Or do I need to wait for telecine?



If you force 1080p/24 output to the display then that's what you will get, but the results won't look right. Until the reverse telecine stuff is working right you will see stuttering, even if the 480i content is film-based.


Of course with video-based 480i content you will always see stuttering if your force 1080p/24 output as there is no correct way to turn true video rate content into film rate (i.e., there's no good way to decide which frames to throw away to lower the rate).


I'll be VERY surprised if it turns out Anthem snuck in the reverse telecine stuff in V2.03d without telling us!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lashler* /forum/post/15987532
> 
> 
> I recently installed an Anthem D2V2 pre/pro. Periodically the Bell ExpressVu HD PVR and the Sony 550 Bluray will not output sound or the sound is garbled. To get the sound back I either change to another input and then back gain or turn the D2 off and back on. To cure the PVR issue the installer installed an optical cable to carry the sound. Although this fixes the problem an $8000 processor should work with HDMI and not have to resort to back door mods to make it work. Anybody else having this issue.



Call Anthem tech support on Monday, you likely need a firmware upgrade in your new D2v that you can install yourself if you have a Windows PC with a serial connection.


There are a number of bugs in the initial D2v firmware that have since been fixed. New product teething pains I'm afraid.


The latest "test" firmware just came out Friday afternoon -- V2.03d. The change notes for the firmware were just reposted a few posts above in this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm doing some V2.03d testing now with 7.1 tracks -- down-mixed in the D2v for my 5.1 speaker setup. It sounds like this down-mix bug is indeed fixed!


"Hairspray" Blu-Ray 7.1 DTS-HD MA decoded to 7.1 HDMI LPCM in the PS3 and down-mixed to 5.1 in the D2v now sounds great!


I'm still using the ARC V2.0.1.1 setup I Measured when firmware V2.02c was installed. Mmmm Mmmm Good!

--Bob


----------



## akopperl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15987936
> 
> 
> I'm doing some V2.03d testing now with 7.1 tracks -- down-mixed in the D2v for my 5.1 speaker setup. It sounds like this down-mix bug is indeed fixed!
> 
> 
> "Hairspray" Blu-Ray 7.1 DTS-HD MA decoded to 7.1 HDMI LPCM in the PS3 and down-mixed to 5.1 in the D2v now sounds great!
> 
> 
> I'm still using the ARC V2.0.1.1 setup I Measured when firmware V2.02c was installed. Mmmm Mmmm Good!
> 
> --Bob



If I install v2.03d (I currently have 2.03b installed) - do I need to upload my ARC results again or are they inlcuded with the parameters saved with Settings Editor?


Thanks


----------



## lashler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/15987580
> 
> 
> Check your firmware version. 2.00 definately had problems. Most audio problems were solved with 2.02.



I am running 2.0. Will upgrade today. Thanks for your help.


----------



## lashler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15987645
> 
> 
> Call Anthem tech support on Monday, you likely need a firmware upgrade in your new D2v that you can install yourself if you have a Windows PC with a serial connection.
> 
> 
> There are a number of bugs in the initial D2v firmware that have since been fixed. New product teething pains I'm afraid.
> 
> 
> The latest "test" firmware just came out Friday afternoon -- V2.03d. The change notes for the firmware were just reposted a few posts above in this thread.
> 
> --Bob



I am running 2.0. Will upgrade today. Thanks for your help.


----------



## Warpdrv

I have a question about the D2v regarding Balanced.


My Wyred4Sound amp has dual 3 prong grounded power chords, and the D2v has 2 prongs from the pictures, and a ground lug. How does the unit maintain a fully balanced unless its grounded. Just trying to understand.


I found this info from EJ at Wyred4Sound


> Quote:
> Even though the amplifier will be driven balanced on a single-ended source, there are many advantages to using balanced (XLR). This would mainly be beneficial if you can connect from the beginning with XLR all the way to the amplifier.
> 
> 
> An RCA connector consists of a + signal, and ground (shield). An XLR connector consists of a + signal, - signal, and ground (shield).
> 
> 
> When using RCA, the ground (shield) is connected to the – signal input on the amplifier. If you have any noise or interference in your system, it will be amplified through the amp, and out your speakers. The amplifier then derives the – signal from the + signal by inverting it 180deg out of phase with respect to the + input.
> 
> 
> When using XLR the + and – signals are a product of the source, and the ground is simply a shield. The major advantage is that the ground or shield isn’t tied in with any of the signals. Not to mention that neither of the signals are “made up”, or referenced to ground.
> 
> 
> All in all, we have found that XLR connections have a much better sonics than RCA. The most noticable would be that the noise level is reduced. Some of the cheapest XLR cables, can be much better than some of the expensive RCA's, so that would be something to consider. However, if you have a REALLY quiet system (noise), you wouldn't see much improvement.


----------



## wabbit636

Does the ARC system come as part of the upgrade from D2 to D2v?


Any guesses as to the cost of the upgrade from D2 to D2v?


I currently have the audyssey pro sound eq and am looking to sell it and replace it with the ARC.


Thanks


----------



## lashler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15987645
> 
> 
> Call Anthem tech support on Monday, you likely need a firmware upgrade in your new D2v that you can install yourself if you have a Windows PC with a serial connection.
> 
> 
> There are a number of bugs in the initial D2v firmware that have since been fixed. New product teething pains I'm afraid.
> 
> 
> The latest "test" firmware just came out Friday afternoon -- V2.03d. The change notes for the firmware were just reposted a few posts above in this thread.
> 
> --Bob



Can you not download the newest version from the Anthem web site without calling tech support??


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15988977
> 
> 
> I have a question about the D2v regarding Balanced.
> 
> 
> My Wyred4Sound amp has dual 3 prong grounded power chords, and the D2v has 2 prongs from the pictures, and a ground lug. How does the unit maintain a fully balanced unless its grounded. Just trying to understand.
> 
> 
> I found this info from EJ at Wyred4Sound



From the Anthem FAQ
http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/T...upport.html#Q1 

*Q9: Why do the power cords have two prongs instead of three?*


A: To help prevent ground loops, which occur when there is more than one ground path. Often misunderstood, the ground conductor prevents the chassis from becoming live if the AC line touches it. We use double insulation instead, something that may sound unfamiliar, but you've seen it before on power tools. This method may cost a little more, but no one can resort to using a 3-prong to 2-prong adapter to open a ground loop ("cheater" plug in this case since the green wire is used for decoration instead of safety).

*Q1: Are the XLR connections on the amps and preamps truly balanced?*


A: Yes. All three pins of the XLR connection are part of the circuit, which means it's a real balanced connection. (If pin 3 is sent to ground or left open, as is sometimes the case, then an XLR jack is an adapter, not a balanced input.) The purpose of balanced connection is cancelling out certain types of interference and ground loops.


*Q2: What about the whole circuit from front to back - is it fully balanced?*


A: No. At some point the signal must become single-ended, or interference can't be cancelled. This is better done sooner rather than later in the signal chain. The purpose of a balanced stage within a circuit is cancelling out nonlinearities arising in the circuit itself, and/or to double the signal level while cancelling out some noise. This is purely a means, not an end. We use a balanced arrangement in specific areas within a circuit where it makes a meaningful difference. Doing this to an entire piece of equipment for the sake of using the catch phrase "fully balanced" may achieve nothing but a significant increase in cost, or worse if the two halves of the circuit aren't matched well.


----------



## wabbit636

Bob or anyone else that can answer my question.....


I currently have an old DLP display and an getting the upgrade fever to buy a new projector and have a few questions....


The 2 PJs that I am interested in are the Epson 6100 or 6500UB. I am wondering with the new upgrade to D2v if it is worth paying the extra $$ for the 6500UB if the specs are somewhat similar and the video scaling would be done by the D2vs new video processor?


Also, can you please tell me how useful the D2s video scaler is for adjusting the picture on the projector screen? With a DLP display I have not had to use these adjustments.


Also, do these adjustments enable you to do 2:35 without an anamorphic lens or is one still required to do this? I am just wondering as the Panny AE3000 has this lens and wondering if it would not be of use for us D2ers.


Thanks


Pat


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/15989065
> 
> 
> I am just wondering as the Panny AE3000 has this lens and wondering if it would not be of use for us D2ers.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Pat



The Panny would be MY CHOICE of the TWO you mentioned.


I don't own either.


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/15989065
> 
> 
> Bob or anyone else that can answer my question.....
> 
> 
> I currently have an old DLP display and an getting the upgrade fever to buy a new projector and have a few questions....
> 
> 
> The 2 PJs that I am interested in are the Epson 6100 or 6500UB. I am wondering with the new upgrade to D2v if it is worth paying the extra $$ for the 6500UB if the specs are somewhat similar and the video scaling would be done by the D2vs new video processor?
> 
> 
> Also, can you please tell me how useful the D2s video scaler is for adjusting the picture on the projector screen? With a DLP display I have not had to use these adjustments.
> 
> 
> Also, do these adjustments enable you to do 2:35 without an anamorphic lens or is one still required to do this? I am just wondering as the Panny AE3000 has this lens and wondering if it would not be of use for us D2ers.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Pat



I don't think I can answer all your questions but regarding 2.35:1 I can tell you that the only way to do it using the full 16:9 imaging device is with optical correction. So either the projector would need to have some sort of built in anamorphic lens or you would need an external one. You simply can't put a rectangular peg in a square hole.


If you are going constant image height, the D2 is fantastic for controlling the image. The best way to do it is with RS232 control because you can tell it to instantly jump to a particular aspect ratio. DVD's are all over the place, the menu may be 16:9 for example and the movie 2.4:1. If you are preset for 2.4:1 and the menu is 16:9 then you may not be able to see the menu items like, "play movie" for example. With RS232 control over your D2 you can momentarily switch to 16:9 with one button click on the remote and then switch back when the movie starts. Anyway, all you need is this...
http://www.industrologic.com/ir2desc.htm ($79) and any universal remote that uses 12 bit Sony SIRC which is pretty much all of them. Any learning remote can do it. I'm using an MX-450 remote and it works great.


mk


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/15989065
> 
> 
> Bob or anyone else that can answer my question.....
> 
> 
> I currently have an old DLP display and an getting the upgrade fever to buy a new projector and have a few questions....
> 
> 
> The 2 PJs that I am interested in are the Epson 6100 or 6500UB. I am wondering with the new upgrade to D2v if it is worth paying the extra $$ for the 6500UB if the specs are somewhat similar and the video scaling would be done by the D2vs new video processor?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Pat



Hello..


I would go with the 6500UB, and the UB makes a HUGE difference in blacks... Hence the name Ultra Black..











I have the 7500 with my D2V and love the picture... Very, Very sharp, rich colours and blacks to die for...


Since the D2V is in the chain, the image has more depth and richer colours..











You won't regret it...










Just my 2 cents...


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/15989176
> 
> 
> If you are going constant image height, the D2 is fantastic for controlling the image. The best way to do it is with RS232 control because you can tell it to instantly jump to a particular aspect ratio. DVD's are all over the place, the menu may be 16:9 for example and the movie 2.4:1. If you are preset for 2.4:1 and the menu is 16:9 then you may not be able to see the menu items like, "play movie" for example. With RS232 control over your D2 you can momentarily switch to 16:9 with one button click on the remote and then switch back when the movie starts. Anyway, all you need is this...
> http://www.industrologic.com/ir2desc.htm ($79) and any universal remote that uses 12 bit Sony SIRC which is pretty much all of them. Any learning remote can do it. I'm using an MX-450 remote and it works great.
> 
> 
> mk



Hey Montekay, Would you mind elaborating on how the rs232 control works with the Anthem and my Harmony remote? What you need to tell it, etc? This sounds like exactly what I need. I presently have an 'A' lens in front of my PJ and have found that on most 'scope' BR discs, for example, the menu items aren't visible on my 2.35 screen. I have my Anthem set for BR to do a custom crop with vertical size at about 820, since most BR's are 'scope'. It sounds like the rs232 control is just what the Dr. ordered. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/15988486
> 
> 
> If I install v2.03d (I currently have 2.03b installed) - do I need to upload my ARC results again or are they inlcuded with the parameters saved with Settings Editor?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Live Video Settings Editor deals with Video Source Adjust menu settings.


The new Settings Backup utility (also included in the ARC install kit) is what's needed for saving and restoring Setup menu settings via a PC file.


However it is even easier than that.


Prior to doing the firmware install, go into the Setup menu and do a Save User and/or Installer Settings. Then do the Reload Factory Defaults required by the firmware install.


After the firmware install, Reload Saved User or Installer Settings. That restores your Setup menu settings and -- for folks who already have V2.02b or later firmware -- also restores you Video Source Adjust menu settings.


----------------------------------------


In addition to the stuff ARC Uploads into Setup, there are also room correction processing parameters that ARC Uploads into a special memory independent of Setup and not part of the Saved User/Installer Settings.


That special memory is supposed to survive firmware upgrades without you having to do anything special. And as far as I know, that works.


Nevertheless, my practice on firmware installs is to play it safe:


1) In Setup, do both a Save User Settings and a Save Installer Settings.


2) Power down. Connect your computer via serial cable. Power up computer. Backup your Setup and Video Source Adjust menu settings to PC files using Settings Backup and Live Video Settings Editor respectively.


3) In Setup, do the Reload Factory Defaults required prior to the firmware install.


4) Power down and insure that you have no powered HDMI connections during the firmware install. Rather than pulling the HDMI plugs (which are delicate), remove wall power from everything except the Anthem and your computer. Keep in mind that many HDMI devices leave their HDMI sockets powered even when the device appears turned off.


5) Power up the computer and turn on the back panel switch of the Anthem.


6) Do the firmware install.


7) Power up the Anthem after the install and do a Reload Saved User Settings -- use the Front Panel to navigate during this.


8) If coming from V2.02a or earlier, reload your Video Source Adjust menu settings from your PC file using Live Video Settings Editor.


9) Power down the Anthem. Power it up again. Wait 30 seconds. Power it down again. This is the final step of the firmware install.


10) Power down the Anthem. Turn on / reconnect the rest of your system. Power up.


11) Open your latest ARC results file in ARC Advanced mode. Do an Upload to the Anthem.


12) Go into the Setup menu and double check that everything is as it should be after the ARC Upload. If there is a problem after the ARC Upload, Reload Saved User Settings and then redo the ARC Upload. If Setup looks fine after the Upload, do a Save User Settings to be sure you have captured the results of the Upload. Leave Installer Settings alone for the moment.


13) Power down. Disconnect your computer.


14) Power up. Use the Anthem with various sources. Once you are comfortable everything is working correctly then also do a Save Installer Settings to make sure it too has the latest stuff stashed in that memory.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lashler* /forum/post/15989032
> 
> 
> Can you not download the newest version from the Anthem web site without calling tech support??



Not at the moment. Anthem has two download pages: A public page which contains "official" released versions -- the ones that come factory installed -- and a password protected page which contains "test" versions.


At the moment, the bug fix releases for the D2v and AVM 50v are still considered "test" versions mostly due to the rapid rate of release of new bug fixes for these two new products.


Anthem tech support can give you the access info you need to download the "test" V2.03d firmware from the password protected download page. Access is no big secret, but Anthem tech support is trying to keep some sort of tabs on who is using that software.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/15989018
> 
> 
> Does the ARC system come as part of the upgrade from D2 to D2v?
> 
> 
> Any guesses as to the cost of the upgrade from D2 to D2v?
> 
> 
> I currently have the audyssey pro sound eq and am looking to sell it and replace it with the ARC.
> 
> 
> Thanks



ARC is bundled with each new D2v and AVM 50v at no extra charge.


Best guess on the upgrade price for D2 -> D2v is around $3000, but we've seen guesses as low as $1500. Since many D2 owners already have ARC, there may be a discount for folks doing the upgrade who already have an ARC kit.


The upgrade is expensive because the video board and DSP board both have to be replaced and they are the most expensive parts.


Official pricing and availability of the upgrade has not yet been announced.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15988977
> 
> 
> I have a question about the D2v regarding Balanced.
> 
> 
> My Wyred4Sound amp has dual 3 prong grounded power chords, and the D2v has 2 prongs from the pictures, and a ground lug. How does the unit maintain a fully balanced unless its grounded. Just trying to understand.
> 
> 
> I found this info from EJ at Wyred4Sound



Separate chassis ground (3 prong) vs. shared ground (polarized plug) on the power cord has nothing to do with "balanced" audio connections being balanced.


A balanced audio connection sends the same signal on two lines -- inverted either side of the ground line. At the other end the two lines are combined. Any noise introduced along the length of the cable will affect both lines the same way so combining them automatically eliminates any such noise.


Balanced connections are used when you have long cable runs in an environment with lots of electrical interference. That's why they are used in studios. Most home theater setups will get no advantage from using balanced connections except, of course, that they look cool.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/15989065
> 
> 
> Bob or anyone else that can answer my question.....
> 
> 
> I currently have an old DLP display and an getting the upgrade fever to buy a new projector and have a few questions....
> 
> 
> The 2 PJs that I am interested in are the Epson 6100 or 6500UB. I am wondering with the new upgrade to D2v if it is worth paying the extra $$ for the 6500UB if the specs are somewhat similar and the video scaling would be done by the D2vs new video processor?
> 
> 
> Also, can you please tell me how useful the D2s video scaler is for adjusting the picture on the projector screen? With a DLP display I have not had to use these adjustments.
> 
> 
> Also, do these adjustments enable you to do 2:35 without an anamorphic lens or is one still required to do this? I am just wondering as the Panny AE3000 has this lens and wondering if it would not be of use for us D2ers.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Pat



To do a 2.35 Constant Image Height setup you need an anamorphic lens. The idea is that the 2.35 movie is stretched vertically to fill a 16:9 shape and then the lens optically widens that back to a 2.35 shape. That means every pixel of the 16:9 video going to the projector gets used to carry movie information.


The Anthems can indeed do the necessary vertical stretching. See the "Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling" post links collected in the first post of this thread.


Your dilemma on which projector to buy is a common one. Typically you can't pick and choose the features you want. To get better stuff in one part of the design you are forced to pay for better stuff in other parts of the design that you don't intend to use.


If you are going to send video to the projector at its "native" resolution (which the Anthem can do) then you don't need scaling in the projector. But buying a projector with a less expensive, poorer quality scaler undoubtedly means other parts of the design are poorer quality as well. That's just the way product marketing works. Every company wants you to pay for features even if you've already got those features in some other piece of your signal chain. Improved features are bundled together so that to get one you end up having to pay for all of them. Clever eh?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/15989454
> 
> 
> Hey Montekay, Would you mind elaborating on how the rs232 control works with the Anthem and my Harmony remote? What you need to tell it, etc? This sounds like exactly what I need. I presently have an 'A' lens in front of my PJ and have found that on most 'scope' BR discs, for example, the menu items aren't visible on my 2.35 screen. I have my Anthem set for BR to do a custom crop with vertical size at about 820, since most BR's are 'scope'. It sounds like the rs232 control is just what the Dr. ordered. Thanks



RS-232 control is done via the serial port on the back of the Anthem.


If you look in your ARC install kit you will find an Excel file that defines the available RS-232 command set. You will readily see that there are way more command options available via RS-233 than via the normal, infrared remote control interface as used by your Harmony. Among other things, using RS-232 you can query the current settings in the Anthem whereas IR remote control is only one-way.


To use RS-232 you need a programmable RS-232 control device -- typically sold to custom installers. Crestron is a popular brand.


Generally these boxes are sold with their own remote control units that talk to the box. The box then talks to the Anthem (via serial cable) and everything else in your setup via serial, or IR remote or whatever. Your Harmony remote would no longer be used.

--Bob


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15989686
> 
> 
> ARC is bundled with each new D2v and AVM 50v at no extra charge.
> 
> 
> Best guess on the upgrade price for D2 -> D2v is around $3000, but we've seen guesses as low as $1500. Since many D2 owners already have ARC, there may be a discount for folks doing the upgrade who already have an ARC kit.
> 
> 
> The upgrade is expensive because the video board and DSP board both have to be replaced and they are the most expensive parts.
> 
> 
> Official pricing and availability of the upgrade has not yet been announced.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Out of curiousity, I called the dealer where I bought my D2 (a high volume dealer that is close to Anthem in Toronto & in contact with them a lot) to see the price of the new D2v in canadian funds.


I was told that the upgrade from D2 to D2v was going to be around $2500 Canadian but this was not the 'official' final price but this is what he heard from them. So this would be a little less than $2000 US........lets hope this is the final price as the lower the better for those looking to upgrade and the savings will go to my new PJ!


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As I mentioned above, the bug that screwed up audio quality when 7.1 HDMI LPCM input was down-mixed to 5.1 speakers in the D2v does appear to be fixed in the "test" V2.03d firmware.


In fact it appears to be more than fixed!


Testing with the 7.1 DTS-HD MA track from "Hairspray" Blu-Ray I think the down-mix to 5.1 speakers sounds better when done in the D2v than it does when done in the PS3! This is an unexpected, and entirely pleasant surprise!


For folks using a PS3 who might have been using 5.1 down-mix in the PS3 as a workaround, be sure to redo your HDMI audio settings to re-enable the 7.1 output options after installing "test" firmware V2.03d.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/15990012
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Out of curiousity, I called the dealer where I bought my D2 (a high volume dealer that is close to Anthem in Toronto & in contact with them a lot) to see the price of the new D2v in canadian funds.
> 
> 
> I was told that the upgrade from D2 to D2v was going to be around $2500 Canadian but this was not the 'official' final price but this is what he heard from them. So this would be a little less than $2000 US........lets hope this is the final price as the lower the better for those looking to upgrade and the savings will go to my new PJ!
> 
> 
> Thanks



It appears the closer you are to Toronto, the more optimistic the estimates are about low pricing for the upgrade.










--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

$2K for the upgrade and a discount for ARC owners would make it a no brainer for me.










Uh Oh How far is Florida from Toronto in US Dollars?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Any bets on which will come first? The official pricing and availability announcement of the D2v upgrade program, or post number 20,000 in this thread?










--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/15989454
> 
> 
> Hey Montekay, Would you mind elaborating on how the rs232 control works with the Anthem and my Harmony remote? What you need to tell it, etc? This sounds like exactly what I need. I presently have an 'A' lens in front of my PJ and have found that on most 'scope' BR discs, for example, the menu items aren't visible on my 2.35 screen. I have my Anthem set for BR to do a custom crop with vertical size at about 820, since most BR's are 'scope'. It sounds like the rs232 control is just what the Dr. ordered. Thanks



When you download the current D2 software you will also get an excel file that includes all the RS232 commands. The one you need is this one...


fps nyyyy set current vertical input window size of source n to yyyy, where yyyy =1,2,3,4,1080


All the information you need is in this Excel file. For example in the case of DVD1, the source "n" is 5. You need to make sure DVD1 is set to custom or conversely you can include another RS232 command to set it to custom for you before sending the # of lines command. You can send multiple commands at once with the RS232 reducing or eliminating the need for creating macros in the remote.


Programing the IR232 from Industrologic is simple. It uses a terminal program similar to hyper-terminal found in windows XP and below. It's easier just to use the terminal program that comes with it.


Your remote needs to work on 12 bit Sony SIRC or at least be capable of it. If your Harmony remote has a learning feature you can use the IR232 to broadcast what ever Sony code you want to program the button on the Harmony or you can do what I did and just use a cheap Sony remote. You can point the remote at the IR232 and if it sends a 12 bit Sony code you will see a red LED light up on the IR232 and you will see the terminal display the Sony code. In initial testing I just pressed a random button on the Sony remote and just used what ever the code was the IR232 displayed. I then used that Sony code with an RS232 command and tried it on the Anthem. Btw with the IR232 in program mode it displays the Sony code when ever it receives a code from the remote. Exit to normal operation and it displays the assigned RS232 command.


Next you assign the appropriate RS232 commands to the Sony codes. When the IR232 receives that code from your Harmony it sends that RS232 command to the D2. You will need a null modem between the IR232 and the D2 but you do not need the null modem between the IR232 and the PC used to program it. You will also need a 9 pin RS232 cable with male connectors at both ends.


Here is an example of what you need to type in to program the IR232...


M1=1,0,fps5810

M2=1,1,fps5830

M3=1,2,fps51030

M4=1,3,fps51080



M1 (message 1) = Sony Device code 1, Sony Function code 0, fps5810 (set source DVD1 to 810 lines)


Create a button on your Harmony called 2.4:1 and with the learning feature teach it to send the Sony device 1 function 0. Create another button on the Harmony called 2.35:1 and teach it to send the Sony command device 1, function 1. All this is arbitrary, you can use what ever Sony device and function codes you want. Also the line numbers above are the arbitrary starting numbers I used to program mine. I may need to fine tune these a little. You mentioned using 820 lines for example. You can create as many buttons as you want and as many different line settings as you want. I created five, one for each 2.4:1, 2.35:1, 1.85:1, 1.77:1 (16:9) and 1.33:1. The 1.33:1 and 1.77: both use 1080 lines and are identical. I just wanted to make it simple and have buttons for everything including 1.33:1 (4:3) in case a friend that didn't realize they would be the same were trying to operate it.


If you have any problems getting it working just PM me.


Monte


----------



## neff2k

I am definitley betting on the 20K post mark hitting before they release pricing. Heck I am betting my D2v will be here before they announce the pricing...


Planning on ordering today!


----------



## DougWinsor

Is there a problem with the HDMI inputs on the anthem and a high rate of failure? There was a poster who complained in another thread about anthem no covering his HDMI inputs after they failed with a couple cable changes. I am wondering if anyone else has had a problem with the HDMI inputs?


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/15989034
> 
> 
> From the Anthem FAQ
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/T...upport.html#Q1




Thanks spider....


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I ran an S&M test disc from my hddvd player and except for the progressive test, I got a lot of moireing, running through my D2v, in the stands as the car went by. Was I doing this right?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/15990502
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I ran an S&M test disc from my hddvd player and except for the progressive test, I got a lot of moireing, running through my D2v, in the stands as the car went by. Was I doing this right?
> 
> John



Make sure your player is sending out 480i or 1080i, otherwise the de-interlacing is being done in the player. I.e., you are testing the player rather than the D2v.


And of course you have to be sending a progressive video signal to your display (e.g., 720p or 1080p) otherwise the display is de-interlacing the video coming from the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DougWinsor* /forum/post/15990385
> 
> 
> Is there a problem with the HDMI inputs on the anthem and a high rate of failure? There was a poster who complained in another thread about anthem no covering his HDMI inputs after they failed with a couple cable changes. I am wondering if anyone else has had a problem with the HDMI inputs?



HDMI plugs and sockets are delicate. This is not peculiar to the Anthem units -- the mechanical design of HDMI plugs/sockets is one of the worst aspects of HDMI.


HDMI socket pin damage due to using a damaged plug or forcing a plug into the socket incorrectly is not covered by the Anthem warranty.


The Anthem units come with several sticky warning labels including one placed over the HDMI sockets warning about just this.

--Bob


----------



## DOBE

I don't know about the accuracy of this article, but it sounds as if Anthem just started shipping the D2v in the last few days. Also, I had heard the MSRP was going to be $7,999 -- but this article says it's $7,499.



> Quote:
> 03.06.2009
> 
> 
> Anthem is now shipping its Statement D2v, version two, preamplifier/processor. For our friends from north of the border, let's just say this generation Statement compared to the original packs a punch like Canadian beer compared to American.
> 
> 
> The Statement D2v has your client more than well covered on the HDMI side, as the rear panel has barely any surface room not covered by an input or output, starting with four more HDMI 1.3c inputs and one more HDMI 1.3c outputthat brings those totals on D2v
> 
> to eight inputs and two outputs, respectively.
> 
> 
> MSRP: $7,499


 http://www.cepro.com/article/anthem_..._processor/K28


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15990618
> 
> 
> HDMI plugs and sockets are delicate. This is not peculiar to the Anthem units -- the mechanical design of HDMI plugs/sockets is one of the worst aspects of HDMI.
> 
> 
> HDMI socket pin damage due to using a damaged plug or forcing a plug into the socket incorrectly is not covered by the Anthem warranty.
> 
> 
> The Anthem units come with several sticky warning labels including one placed over the HDMI sockets warning about just this.
> 
> --Bob



I saw the same complaints that Doug did. While I am highly critical of HDMI connector design, particularly the lack of a locking mechanism, I have never had a socket go bad or ever heard of an equipment manufacturer going to the extent of placing these sorts of warning notices on their equipment.


This is kind of a red flag for me as I have narrowed down my search for a pre-pro to the AVM 50v and one other candidate.


I did a search of this thread and didn't see any complaints of sockets going bad, which was somewhat reassuring. But I wonder if there are any people that have some comments about this issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/15991047
> 
> 
> I saw the same complaints that Doug did. While I am highly critical of HDMI connector design, particularly the lack of a locking mechanism, I have never had a socket go bad or ever heard of an equipment manufacturer going to the extent of placing these sorts of warning notices on their equipment.
> 
> 
> This is kind of a red flag for me as I have narrowed down my search for a pre-pro to the AVM 50v and one other candidate.
> 
> 
> I did a search of this thread and didn't see any complaints of sockets going bad, which was somewhat reassuring. But I wonder if there are any people that have some comments about this issue.



We have had some reports of damaged HDMI sockets in this thread. I'm pretty sure all of them were traced to the use of plugs that had been previously damaged.


In any event, the folks at Anthem tech support are quite approachable. If you email or call them pre-purchase they may be able to satisfy you on this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/15991023
> 
> 
> I don't know about the accuracy of this article, but it sounds as if Anthem just started shipping the D2v in the last few days. Also, I had heard the MSRP was going to be $7,999 -- but this article says it's $7,499.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.cepro.com/article/anthem_..._processor/K28



The D2v has been shipping for a while now.


Anthem on Thursday just put out a new press release touting that fact. That's what got picked up for the story you found.


This press release still uses the word "estimated" to describe the $7499 price, which is what they've been saying for some time.


It's still not clear if Anthem intends to raise that price any time soon, but at the moment $7499 is indeed the US MSRP. Within the restrictions AVS puts on such talk, there have been a substantial number of recent hints here that US and Canadian dealers are discounting from that in the current parlous economy.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Using the "test" D2v V2.03d firmware:


"Hellboy II" Blu-Ray has a 7.1 DTS-HD MA track as its default audio track.


If the Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player is set to HDMI LPCM output (decoding in the Oppo), the Select displays in the D2v show it is receiving 7.1 HDMI LPCM 48KHz audio as expected.


But if the Oppo is set to HDMI Bitstream output (decoding in the D2v), the Select displays in the D2v show it is receiving only 5.1 HDMI DTS-HD MA 48KHz audio.


Anthem and Oppo have both been alerted since it is not clear which product has the bug here. My guess is that the bug is in the D2v firmware. The HDMI Bitstreamed audio sounds fine to me, so the bug may be nothing more than a formatting error in that D2v Select display.


This is a Universal title, so I don't think it has the "alternate speaker presentation" issue found with some older New Line titles.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/15991047
> 
> 
> I saw the same *complaints* that Doug did.
> 
> I did a search of this thread and didn't see any complaints of sockets going bad, which was somewhat reassuring. But I wonder if there are any people that have some comments about this issue.



FWIW, I saw the thread with the _complaint_ from amir as well.


I'll just say this, if there was a real issue, you would've found a ton of hits about it on this thread.

For myself, it's never been an issue even with a heavy duty HDMI cable to my PJ.


The HDMI connector design itself is OK, the "trouble" arises when you use a honking big\\stiff cable with it and the resulting strain on the connector\\socket.

If you don't relieve that strain I can see how it could break the circuit runs in the board of any piece of gear.

Personally I don't see how plugging and unplugging the connector could break it unless someone was really ham-fisted.

Amir is obviously no dummy so it may be a case where the connectors were bad in some way.

In all honesty I would not base a buy, not-buy on this.

Bluejeans has some very nice, flexible HDMI cables that really minimize any strain.


----------



## Warpdrv

Also, upon perusing this thread I quickly learned that there are little HDMI port savers out there for little money...


Monoprice has them. http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage


----------



## DougWinsor




> Quote:
> HDMI plugs and sockets are delicate. This is not peculiar to the Anthem units -- the mechanical design of HDMI plugs/sockets is one of the worst aspects of HDMI.
> 
> 
> HDMI socket pin damage due to using a damaged plug or forcing a plug into the socket incorrectly is not covered by the Anthem warranty.
> 
> 
> The Anthem units come with several sticky warning labels including one placed over the HDMI sockets warning about just this.



Ok, that is what I was thinking because I heard nor read nothing from anthem.



> Quote:
> We have had some reports of damaged HDMI sockets in this thread. I'm pretty sure all of them were traced to the use of plugs that had been previously damaged.
> 
> 
> In any event, the folks at Anthem tech support are quite approachable. If you email or call them pre-purchase they may be able to satisfy you on this.



I agree, it was probably the user doing something becuase I have not heard and mass failures on any HDMI equipment.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15991494
> 
> 
> Also, upon perusing this thread I quickly learned that there are little HDMI port savers out there for little money...



Ya Man - I use these everywhere


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/15991642
> 
> 
> Ya Man - I use these everywhere



Well I haven't gotten my D2v yet, but I already have quite a list starting for things to order, those as well as balanced cables, I just want to look cool....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DougWinsor* /forum/post/15991554
> 
> 
> I agree, it was probably the user doing something becuase I have not heard and mass failures on any HDMI equipment.



FYI, here is the text of the sticky warning label that comes with the D2v. There are a few of these in the pack out, one of which is actually attached over the HDMI input sockets:



> Quote:
> *WARNING*
> 
> 
> BE CAREFUL WHEN INSERTING HDMI CABLES.
> 
> 
> The connector should slide into the jack easily -- do not insert it on an angle and do not force it in. Each connector contains 19 delicate pins, and cables with damaged pins can damage the jack.
> 
> *Jacks damaged through misuse are not covered under warranty.*
> 
> 
> If your HDMI cables have been connected so many times that they are about to wear out, we strongly recommend that you replace them to prevent damage to any HDMI jacks in your system.
> 
> 
> Please see manual for further details.



--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15991131
> 
> 
> We have had some reports of damaged HDMI sockets in this thread. I'm pretty sure all of them were traced to the use of plugs that had been previously damaged.
> 
> 
> In any event, the folks at Anthem tech support are quite approachable. If you email or call them pre-purchase they may be able to satisfy you on this.
> 
> --Bob



I had a damaged HDMI out #1. The little plastic tab in there was split. Fortunately, none of the pins were bent, so I just pinched the plastic together and put a port-saver on it. No problems since.


This was fresh out of the box - I always inspect HDMI ports before hooking anything up. So it was a manufacturing defect.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15991494
> 
> 
> Also, upon perusing this thread I quickly learned that there are little HDMI port savers out there for little money...
> 
> 
> Monoprice has them. http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage



Invaluable little things. I have bunches of them, even on my cheap equipment. Never had a problem with anything connected to them.


I always buy monoprice.


----------



## Milt99

Thanks guys.

I totally forgot about the monoprice dongles.

Just placed an order.


----------



## Milt99

Thanks guys.

I totally forgot about the monoprice dongles.

Just placed an order.I mean backorder


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15991942
> 
> 
> I had a damaged HDMI out #1. The little plastic tab in there was split. Fortunately, none of the pins were bent, so I just pinched the plastic together and put a port-saver on it. No problems since.
> 
> 
> This was fresh out of the box - I always inspect HDMI ports before hooking anything up. So it was a manufacturing defect.



Even if it is no problem now, you should still let Anthem tech support know that one got past their manufacturing Quality Control guys. Warranty reports are their best tool for learning what needs to be improved in their QC process.


Just send them an email telling them you had a fit and finish problem, that it's not something you need corrected, but you just wanted to alert them so they could pass it on to the right team.


I had one myself. One of the two remotes for my new D2v had a non-functional backlight. No big deal since I use a Harmony remote, but still something that shouldn't have gotten past their QC guys.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/15989065
> 
> 
> Bob or anyone else that can answer my question.....
> 
> 
> I currently have an old DLP display and an getting the upgrade fever to buy a new projector and have a few questions....
> 
> 
> The 2 PJs that I am interested in are the Epson 6100 or 6500UB. I am wondering with the new upgrade to D2v if it is worth paying the extra $$ for the 6500UB if the specs are somewhat similar and the video scaling would be done by the D2vs new video processor?
> 
> 
> Also, can you please tell me how useful the D2s video scaler is for adjusting the picture on the projector screen? With a DLP display I have not had to use these adjustments.
> 
> 
> Also, do these adjustments enable you to do 2:35 without an anamorphic lens or is one still required to do this? I am just wondering as the Panny AE3000 has this lens and wondering if it would not be of use for us D2ers.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Pat




I have a Infocus SP-777 that was was originally a 30K 720 3 chip DLP. I bought it near EOL and paid a fraction of the original cost. Point being that the scaler in this 30K PJ is nothing near as good as the D2. It even varies between the component and DVI inputs as to how many pixles are presented. I borrowed a D2 to try and plan to get the D1 to D2v upgrade when it is avaliable primarly to improve the scaler and intergration with my scope screen and amorphic lens. Unless everything you watch only Blueray you will be scaling and the D2x is built for the job.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/15991494
> 
> 
> Also, upon perusing this thread I quickly learned that there are little HDMI port savers out there for little money...
> 
> 
> Monoprice has them.



Yes, I have heard from others who have had good results with these. I will have to give them a try; it seems like cheap insurance.


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15990192
> 
> 
> Any bets on which will come first? The official pricing and availability announcement of the D2v upgrade program, or post number 20,000 in this thread?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


With now the "Daylight Savings Time" taking effect as we speak, I will say that there is a very good chance that we'll see the official pricing and availability of the D2v coming first.


And as for the post number 20,000, whoever hit it, should have the upgrade

for FREE.










________ Bob


----------



## spiderv6

I have an issue with one of my HDMI outs. Anthems attitiude after a phone call to tech support? Simple, they will replace the unit. No questions. No issues. No paperwork. No hassle.


Try that with and see how many hoops you have to jump through........


These are complex units and they will occasionally go wrong, but you are also paying for customer service that, in my experience so far, is second to none.


----------



## wabbit636

to anyone that had a D2 and then got a new D2v........need your impressions, comments, recommendations....


If you have had both and just switched then out (D2 for D2v) and the rest of your system remained the same......could you please tell me what difference you have seen in terms of picture quality, sound, etc??????


I am debating wether or not I should just use the $$ to upgrade to a projector from a 5 year old DLP tv or get the upgrade when it is available. What is my best move? If the changes are very subtle then maybe buying a projector will be my best choice....then upgrade to D2v in a years time.


If I get a new PJ and keep using the D2....will I be sacficing picture quality because the D2 has an older 'outdated' scaler?


Thanks


Pat


----------



## dweltman

Bob:


I have the original D2V (2.0) firmware. I want to try upgrading to see it resolves some issues I am having. What would you think is the best one to upgrade? (I don't have a subwoofer). I have 2.02, 2.02a,c, 2.03b,d on my laptop to choose from.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/15994956
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I have the original D2V (2.0) firmware. I want to try upgrading to see it resolves some issues I am having. What would you think is the best one to upgrade? (I don't have a subwoofer). I have 2.02, 2.02a,c, 2.03b,d on my laptop to choose from.



Definitely V2.03d. No question.


Be aware that you will lose your Video Source Adjust menu settings since you are updating from firmware older than V2.02b. Saving those settings to a PC file using Live Video Settings Editor is a workaround. Your Setup menu settings will be preserved across the update via Saved User Settings if you save them before doing the required Reload Factory Defaults.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15995156
> 
> 
> Definitely V2.03d. No question.
> 
> 
> Be aware that you will lose your Video Source Adjust menu settings since you are updating from firmware older than V2.02b. Saving those settings to a PC file using Live Video Settings Editor is a workaround. Your Setup menu settings will be preserved across the update via Saved User Settings if you save them before doing the required Reload Factory Defaults.
> 
> --Bob



Despite the subwoofer bug you mentioned?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/15995460
> 
> 
> Despite the subwoofer bug you mentioned?



I'm not sure which bug you are talking about.


The only bass issue I know of with V2.03d is for folks who configure a setup without a subwoofer -- for example in a Music configuration. If you have no sub configured, but you DO have "large" side or rear surrounds configured, then LFE input gets incorrectly steered to the surrounds instead of just to the fronts.


This won't impact folks listening to 2-channel stuff (since there's no LFE input) and it won't impact folks using ARC (since ARC will naturally set the side and rear surrounds to the equivalent of "small").


ETA: Poster JAYRAY has also identified an issue with bass from his HD-DVD player -- a "thumping" when playback is paused. I think that may just be limited to that specific player, but I'm not sure.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

That was the bug I was referring to. I use 5 "large" speakers and no sub. I didn't realize ARC configures surrounds as small, I didn't see that in the curves. As I recall, Arc asks you if your surrounds are large? So do you think this will or won't be an issue for me?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/15995626
> 
> 
> That was the bug I was referring to. I use 5 "large" speakers and no sub. I didn't realize ARC configures surrounds as small, I didn't see that in the curves. As I recall, Arc asks you if your surrounds are large? So do you think this will or won't be an issue for me?



If you tell ARC to set your surrounds to Large ("full range") then it will do so and yes I think this will be an issue for you. Distinguish "full range" -- which means no bass steering, from a very low crossover setting which is still steering bass.


As a workaround, don't tell ARC to do "full range" for your surrounds.


The bug fixes already in V2.03d are well worth making this adjustment until Anthem fixes this bug.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

One other question, but to do you have to use the Live Video Settings Editor to save ARC settings, or is that covered by a routine Save Settings in the OSD menu?


I should know this stuff by now, but I tried with the D2 to upgrade firmware as infrequently as possible. (Think I did it once to the 1.3_ when it became official.)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/15995658
> 
> 
> One other question, but to do you have to use the Live Video Settings Editor to save ARC settings, or is that covered by a routine Save Settings in the OSD menu?
> 
> 
> I should know this stuff by now, but I tried with the D2 to upgrade firmware as infrequently as possible. (Think I did it once to the 1.3_ when it became official.)



The simplest thing to do if you are concerned about ARC settings is just open up your latest set of ARC results in Advanced mode and do a new Upload after completing the firmware install and reloading your other settings.


You are not supposed to need to do this for ARC, but I always do it anyway, "just in case".


That said, there are enough bug fixes between firmware V2.00 and V2.03d that if I were you, I'd do a fresh set of ARC Measurements after the update.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15995657
> 
> 
> If you tell ARC to set your surrounds to Large ("full range") then it will do so and yes I think this will be an issue for you. Distinguish "full range" -- which means no bass steering, from a very low crossover setting which is still steering bass.
> 
> 
> As a workaround, don't tell ARC to do "full range" for your surrounds.
> 
> 
> The bug fixes already in V2.03d are well worth making this adjustment until Anthem fixes this bug.
> 
> --Bob



Actually that brings up an issue I've always wondered about. My speakers are "full range" trail off in the 30s. In the OSD, even if you specify no sub, it still asks you to list a crossover setting, which I always have set to the lowest possible value. Is there a way to set for no steering vs. steering at very low crossover settings? What does ARC do normally in my setup


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/15995700
> 
> 
> Actually that brings up an issue I've always wondered about. My speakers are "ful range" trail of in the 30s. In the OSD, even if you specify no sub, it still asks you to list a crossover setting, which I always have set to the lowest possible value. Is there a way to set for no steering vs. steering at very low crossover settings?



There are two different settings in ARC V2.0.0 or later. There are crossover settings uploaded into the Setup menu which affect bass steering. You can tell ARC to turn off bass steering by selecting "Full Range". In the Advanced Settings display in Setup, a crossover of 25Hz means that bass steering has been turned off.


There are also "cutoff" settings that control how ARC rolls off the room correction. You can manually lower those to 25Hz in the ARC Targets window if you want to force ARC to correct all the way down.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

Thanks, as always


----------



## akopperl

Are there any limitations with ARC if you have a 5.0 speaker configuration? In my case, only the front left and right channels are full range. The center and surrounds are small.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/15995734
> 
> 
> Are there any limitations with ARC if you have a 5.0 speaker configuration? In my case, only the front left and right channels are full range. The center and surrounds are small.



That should work just fine.


The only thing to keep in mind is that you may want to manually lower the "cutoff" value for LF/RF in the ARC Targets window prior to doing your Calculation.


I suggest you try the values ARC has chosen and then try a Calculation with that LF/RF "cutoff" value manually lowered to 25Hz (leaving "full range" still checked for LF/RF of course) and see if you like that better.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/15994704
> 
> 
> to anyone that had a D2 and then got a new D2v........need your impressions, comments, recommendations....
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Pat



I remember reading on this thread - there are at least 1/2

dozen, if not more who have gone from the D2 to a D2v2.


I don't think anyone feels it was a mistake.


You should be able to search the thread for their feedback.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/15994704
> 
> 
> to anyone that had a D2 and then got a new D2v........need your impressions, comments, recommendations....
> 
> 
> If you have had both and just switched then out (D2 for D2v) and the rest of your system remained the same......could you please tell me what difference you have seen in terms of picture quality, sound, etc??????
> 
> 
> I am debating wether or not I should just use the $$ to upgrade to a projector from a 5 year old DLP tv or get the upgrade when it is available. What is my best move? If the changes are very subtle then maybe buying a projector will be my best choice....then upgrade to D2v in a years time.
> 
> 
> If I get a new PJ and keep using the D2....will I be sacficing picture quality because the D2 has an older 'outdated' scaler?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Pat



Much as I like my new D2v, I think you will get more joy upgrading to a good projector first (used with your current D2). Then save your shekels towards the D2v upgrade. Video is superior in the D2v, but you will get more improvement going to a good projector first -- which will also make it easier to see the video improvement from the D2v whenever you do the upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

OK, another question arises:


I can understand why if you upgrade your ARC software, you might want to do another set of measurements. But why would a D2V firmware change make remeasurement desirable? Doesn't the D2V basically take the channel curves as determined by the ARC and apply them to each channel?


----------



## AbMagFab

So is there any reason *not* to set my full-range fronts to full-range, and the crossover to 25Hz? I actually get improved calc'd curves (mostly because ARC has to do less with the fronts since they naturally are full range, so I guess it has more resources to tweak the rest).


I only have one sub right now, so presumably (assuming phasing is good), I'd get better overall response?


And what's the difference between the full-range crossover checkbox (which seems to do nothing at all in ARC) versus setting the crossover to a lower number?


Just curious...

Thanks,

Mark


----------



## dweltman

I upgraded to 2.03d and it seems to fix a lot of things. Certainly worth doing!


One issue I noted is the 2L BD "Divertimenti". This is supposed to have a 192 signal by DTS HD, Dolby TruHD, and PCM. If I set the PS3 for bitstream, DTSHD seems to work OK, but Dolby HD just gives me DD 640. If I set the PS3 for linear PCM, I cannot get 192 to play correctly on the D2V (repeated dropouts and distortion). Anyone else have this disc to try?


----------



## Carlton Bale

I need help getting RS-232 serial control working with my D2. I've tried without success and hopefully I'm missing something obvious. I have a Pronto Professional remote (TSU9400) and a Serial Extender (RFX9600). The remote talks to the extender but I can't get the extender to control my D2. These are the ASCII power on commands I've tried:

P1P1\\x0a

P1P1;


I've tried these ASCII commands for Source 5 - DVD:

P1S5\\x0a

P1S5;


I have serial port 1 on the extender attached to the serial port on the D2. This is the same cable I use for the ARC setup, I know it's communicating with the D2.


Anyone have any experience with RS-232 control using a Pronto? Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15996481
> 
> 
> So is there any reason *not* to set my full-range fronts to full-range, and the crossover to 25Hz? I actually get improved calc'd curves (mostly because ARC has to do less with the fronts since they naturally are full range, so I guess it has more resources to tweak the rest).
> 
> 
> I only have one sub right now, so presumably (assuming phasing is good), I'd get better overall response?
> 
> 
> And what's the difference between the full-range crossover checkbox (which seems to do nothing at all in ARC) versus setting the crossover to a lower number?
> 
> 
> Just curious...
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark



Sure. If you set your speakers to "full range" ARC can no longer use bass steering as a degree of freedom in coming up with its best solution for your room.


If you have a good sub, my bias is to NOT use "full range" for the mains even if they are capable of it. Give ARC all the flexibility to do what it can.


------------------------------------


There are two different things going on here. One is the crossover for bass steering (what ends up in the Setup > Speaker Configuration menu after the ARC Upload). When you select "full range", such bass steering is turned off. This is the same thing as manually setting a crossover to 25Hz in that Setup menu. NOTE: You do NOT want to do that after Uploading ARC results. Select "full range" in ARC if that's what you are trying to achieve.


The other is the "cutoff" for room correction -- think of it kind of like the low frequency version of what's done with the Max EQ Frequency target at high frequencies. The analogy is not precise since it is not really a hard cutoff but more the turning point of how room correction rolls off.


When you adjust the cutoff values, ARC makes appropriate changes to the crossover values as well, but only if you haven't also selected "full range". If you do not select "full range" ARC picks the necessary crossover to support both the cutoff value in effect and what it needs to make its room correction solution work.


Lowering the cutoff to 25Hz, in addition to selecting "full range" for those speakers, removes another degree of freedom from ARC's solution. However if you really do have speakers capable of full range function, odds are ARC's choice of cutoff is already pretty low (e.g., 40Hz) and so you may not hear much difference if you manually drop it all the way to 25Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/15996192
> 
> 
> OK, another question arises:
> 
> 
> I can understand why if you upgrade your ARC software, you might want to do another set of measurements. But why would a D2V firmware change make remeasurement desirable? Doesn't the D2V basically take the channel curves as determined by the ARC and apply them to each channel?



The test tones ARC uses to derive its solution are generated by the D2v.


I've no reason to believe the bug fixes in the D2v have invalidated any earlier ARC Measurements you may have made, but since there are so many of them, and in particular since they affect the audio path through the D2v (things like LFE level, the speaker level calibration menu itself, and DSP processing), I think it is better to play it safe and re-Measure to replace whatever you might have previously done with the V2.00 firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/15996651
> 
> 
> I upgraded to 2.03d and it seems to fix a lot of things. Certainly worth doing!
> 
> 
> One issue I noted is the 2L BD "Divertimenti". This is supposed to have a 192 signal by DTS HD, Dolby TruHD, and PCM. If I set the PS3 for bitstream, DTSHD seems to work OK, but Dolby HD just gives me DD 640. If I set the PS3 for linear PCM, I cannot get 192 to play correctly on the D2V (repeated dropouts and distortion). Anyone else have this disc to try?



The PS3 is not able to produce HDMI Bitstream output of TrueHD or DTS-HD MA tracks. If you try it, you will instead get Bitstream output of the "core" or "associated" lossy DD5.1 or DTS tracks that come with TrueHD or DTS-HD MA for just such compatibility purposes.


For the PS3, HDMI LPCM output is the only good choice.


-------------------------------------


On your 192KHz issue, be sure you have redone the HDMI setup in the PS3 to enable the high bit rate outputs. Go to Settings > Display Settings, do the automatic setup for video, accept the result of that, tell it to do the audio as well, do the automatic setup, and accept the results of that.


If you are still having problems with HDMI LPCM output from the PS3 at 192KHz after doing that, then email the details to Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## joealbracht

Carlton,

Have you tried changing the D2 Setup>trigger/IR/RS232>RS-232 TX Status to "ON"?


My AMX installer tells me the AMX system needs ON.

Anthem's ARC software needs OFF. So I toggle it depending on what I'm doing.

No experience with Pronto.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/15996993
> 
> 
> I need help getting RS-232 serial control working with my D2. I've tried without success and hopefully I'm missing something obvious. I have a Pronto Professional remote (TSU9400) and a Serial Extender (RFX9600). The remote talks to the extender but I can't get the extender to control my D2. These are the ASCII power on commands I've tried:
> 
> P1P1\\x0a
> 
> P1P1;
> 
> 
> I've tried these ASCII commands for Source 5 - DVD:
> 
> P1S5\\x0a
> 
> P1S5;
> 
> 
> I have serial port 1 on the extender attached to the serial port on the D2. This is the same cable I use for the ARC setup, I know it's communicating with the D2.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any experience with RS-232 control using a Pronto? Thanks!



There are two flavors of serial cable. The one you use for firmware updates and the like is a "straight through" cable -- pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9. The other has one pair of pins swapped. Your extender may need the other type of serial cable. Check its manual.


If that doesn't do it for you, I'll have to refer you to Anthem tech support. You may need to make a setting change in the D2 Setup menu related to RS-232 communications.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joealbracht* /forum/post/15997214
> 
> 
> Carlton,
> 
> Have you tried changing Setup>trigger/IR/RS232>RS-232 TX Status to "ON"?
> 
> 
> My AMX installer tells me the AMX system needs ON.
> 
> Anthem's ARC software needs OFF. So I toggle it depending on what I'm doing.
> 
> No experience with Pronto.



That's a good suggestion!

--Bob


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15997183
> 
> 
> The PS3 is not able to produce HDMI Bitstream output of TrueHD or DTS-HD MA tracks. If you try it, you will instead get Bitstream output of the "core" or "associated" lossy DD5.1 or DTS tracks that come with TrueHD or DTS-HD MA for just such compatibility purposes.
> 
> 
> For the PS3, HDMI LPCM output is the only good choice.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> On your 192KHz issue, be sure you have redone the HDMI setup in the PS3 to enable the high bit rate outputs. Go to Settings > Display Settings, do the automatic setup for video, accept the result of that, tell it to do the audio as well, do the automatic setup, and accept the results of that.
> 
> 
> If you are still having problems with HDMI LPCM output from the PS3 at 192KHz after doing that, then email the details to Anthem tech support.
> 
> --Bob



Silly me, I knew the PS3 didn't bitstream DTSMA/TruHD. Anyway, Bob, I checked and my PS3 is set to max resolution for both audio and video. So I will email Anthem.


Incidentally, the disc I mentioned is an excellent test disc. It has the same musical program on separate SACD and BD, with the BD having 192/24 DTSMA, TruHD, and LPCM versions. So an excellent way to compare different forms of high-rez encoding. I was having a problem with the SACD, but the upgrade to 2.03d has solved that, I am getting 176/24 no problem.







But 192/24 from the BD version still does not play properly.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15997123
> 
> 
> Sure. If you set your speakers to "full range" ARC can no longer use bass steering as a degree of freedom in coming up with its best solution for your room.
> 
> 
> If you have a good sub, my bias is to NOT use "full range" for the mains even if they are capable of it. Give ARC all the flexibility to do what it can.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> There are two different things going on here. One is the crossover for bass steering (what ends up in the Setup > Speaker Configuration menu after the ARC Upload). When you select "full range", such bass steering is turned off. This is the same thing as manually setting a crossover to 25Hz in that Setup menu. NOTE: You do NOT want to do that after Uploading ARC results. Select "full range" in ARC if that's what you are trying to achieve.
> 
> 
> The other is the "cutoff" for room correction -- think of it kind of like the low frequency version of what's done with the Max EQ Frequency target at high frequencies. The analogy is not precise since it is not really a hard cutoff but more the turning point of how room correction rolls off.
> 
> 
> When you adjust the cutoff values, ARC makes appropriate changes to the crossover values as well, but only if you haven't also selected "full range". If you do not select "full range" ARC picks the necessary crossover to support both the cutoff value in effect and what it needs to make its room correction solution work.
> 
> 
> Lowering the cutoff to 25Hz, in addition to selecting "full range" for those speakers, removes another degree of freedom from ARC's solution. However if you really do have speakers capable of full range function, odds are ARC's choice of cutoff is already pretty low (e.g., 40Hz) and so you may not hear much difference if you manually drop it all the way to 25Hz.
> 
> --Bob



Right, I'm only talking about the settings in ARC.


There are two in ARC Targets - Full Range XOver, and the Hz setting.


If I check "full range XOver" and then recalc, it doesn't seem to do anything. The target curves and calc'd curves look just like they did before I checked (or unchecked) that box.


If I set the Hz to 25 (from 60), then I see the target curves change dramatically at the low-end, and the resulting calcs look better as well.


Does this mean ARC is broken (i.e., setting it to full-range XOver should do something)?


And I'm not totally clear - are you also recommending against setting it to 25 Hz (with Full Range XOver not checked)? The response curves of my speakers, in ARC, show full response down to 20 Hz, yet ARC is setting them to 60.


Thanks!


----------



## ehlarson

Currently I have a HT passthrough setup which includes a Lavry Black DA-10 and Krell integrated amp along with a Denon 5800 and a 5 channel external amp. My room is set up for 5.1. It isn't likely that I would go to 7.1 anytime soon.


I'm planning to replace the Denon with either a D2v or 50v and pick up an Oppo BDP-83. The question in my mind is whether I would be happy with the D2v handling my 2ch playback. If so selling my HT passthrough setup would finance the difference in cost between the D2v and 50v. I have a feeling that ARC would tilt the answer towards yes.


Does the D2V accommodate configuration of two ARC setups? One for 2.0 with mains set large and one for 5.1 with mains set small?


Any other thoughts?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/15998690
> 
> 
> Does the D2V accommodate configuration of two ARC setups? One for 2.0 with mains set large and one for 5.1 with mains set small?



ARC and the D2v supports exactly that. (I think the 50v w/ARC also support that?)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/15997949
> 
> 
> Right, I'm only talking about the settings in ARC.
> 
> 
> There are two in ARC Targets - Full Range XOver, and the Hz setting.
> 
> 
> If I check "full range XOver" and then recalc, it doesn't seem to do anything. The target curves and calc'd curves look just like they did before I checked (or unchecked) that box.
> 
> 
> If I set the Hz to 25 (from 60), then I see the target curves change dramatically at the low-end, and the resulting calcs look better as well.
> 
> 
> Does this mean ARC is broken (i.e., setting it to full-range XOver should do something)?
> 
> 
> And I'm not totally clear - are you also recommending against setting it to 25 Hz (with Full Range XOver not checked)? The response curves of my speakers, in ARC, show full response down to 20 Hz, yet ARC is setting them to 60.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I don't know enough about how ARC implements the "cutoffs" to answer this. You'll need to pose this question to Anthem tech support.


I don't think this is a bug, but I don't have a good explanation for you.


Please do post what you hear from them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/15998690
> 
> 
> Does the D2V accommodate configuration of two ARC setups? One for 2.0 with mains set large and one for 5.1 with mains set small?



Yes you can set up two separate configurations (ARC names them Movie and Music, but you can use them any way you want). You can then set any source to use either of them.


One thing to keep in mind is that ARC is implemented in the digital audio signal path. Which means if you are using analog audio sources you need to let the Anthem digitize that analog audio before it can apply ARC. This may tilt you towards the D2v for the better ADC and DAC implementation.


The Anthems also offer an Analog-Direct path which is unprocessed audio -- basically you get only main volume control. If you set a source to Analog-Direct then ARC will not apply.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

Also part of this equation should be how flexible ARC has the ability to have 2 configs in general period.....


Whether it be with HT as one, and 2 channel audio as a secondary, and whether that 2 channel scenario be - mains set as large or mains set as small with subwoofer as the .1.... This is one of the most important aspects of the D2v that I have sought out.


I want to be allowed the freedom to have ARC engaged and have 2 channel with mains & outboard subs. I implore you to find a 2 channel preamp that will allow you this , I have found 1 or 2... This is one of the most important reasons I have gone with the D2v !!!!


There are far more benefits to have both options available to having a 2.1 preamp with a dedicated x-over for sub out, rather then trying to implement some rudimentary scenario of conjoining the 2... My subs are far better at the low end then any speaker I have ever listened to... Maybe I love my bass to much.. I am glad to say I will be very happy I can get what I want.


Also I will be able to have a 2 channel external preamp and push a button allowing that source, while still maintaining ARC and redirecting all the bass to my subs....







Thats what I'm talkin' About !!!!


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/15998690
> 
> 
> Currently I have a HT passthrough setup which includes a Lavry Black DA-10 and Krell integrated amp along with a Denon 5800 and a 5 channel external amp. My room is set up for 5.1. It isn't likely that I would go to 7.1 anytime soon.
> 
> 
> I'm planning to replace the Denon with either a D2v or 50v and pick up an Oppo BDP-83. The question in my mind is whether I would be happy with the D2v handling my 2ch playback. If so selling my HT passthrough setup would finance the difference in cost between the D2v and 50v. I have a feeling that ARC would tilt the answer towards yes.
> 
> 
> Does the D2V accommodate configuration of two ARC setups? One for 2.0 with mains set large and one for 5.1 with mains set small?
> 
> 
> Any other thoughts?



Yes.

In the advanced mode for ARC you are able to set up different 'movie' and 'music' configurations. In either configuration you can choose up to a 7.1 speaker configuration, or 'Front L/R' only. You can also choose to set the speakers to 'full range x-over'.

So for movies you could choose a 5.1 set up and let ARC set the cross overs for your speakers and sub; and for music choose fronts only and check 'full range x-over', which would force the D2v to send all the bass info to the fronts.

I would suggest, if possible, for you to go to your Anthem dealer and have them demonstrate the ARC set-up in a separate movie and music configurations with speakers and components as close to your own as possible, and see what you think.

I would be surprised if you weren't impressed with both the movie and music audio from the D2v with ARC.

With the D2v with ARC, and the bdp-83(when available) and your 5 channel amp you should be able to do what you are doing with all your present components.

Tom


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15998889
> 
> 
> Yes you can set up two separate configurations (ARC names them Movie and Music, but you can use them any way you want). You can then set any source to use either of them.
> 
> --Bob



That's what I am looking for.


----------



## Ron Alcasid

It happened again last night. I turned on my AVM50 and it was very sluggish starting up and switching inputs. So I ran the flash eraser, reinstalled the firmware and restored my settings. This happened once before, first time I had disconnected the power to my equipment rack because I had to move it out of my way to install my new display. This last time I shut off the power at the breaker because I was doing some electrical work. Both times the AVM50 was without power for an extended period of time. Does this correlate with others who've experienced this bug?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/16001729
> 
> 
> It happened again last night. I turned on my AVM50 and it was very sluggish starting up and switching inputs. So I ran the flash eraser, reinstalled the firmware and restored my settings. This happened once before, first time I had disconnected the power to my equipment rack because I had to move it out of my way to install my new display. This last time I shut off the power at the breaker because I was doing some electrical work. Both times the AVM50 was without power for an extended period of time. Does this correlate with others who've experienced this bug?



So far, the only common factor appears to be just what you've reported -- extended disconnect from wall power.


You should give Anthem tech support a call. I don't know of any particular reason why the AVM 50 should care if it is disconnected from wall power for an extended period, but perhaps it points to a hardware failure in your unit.


The only other thing I can think of is that there is some startup issue if you turn the unit on TOO SOON after it is reconnected to wall power. But that's just a wild guess.


I've not had any problems with my D2 or D2v after disconnecting from wall power. It certainly isn't supposed to be a problem.


----------------------------------------------


If this were a normal computer, I'd say its internal rechargeable battery -- the one that keeps its clock going when it is powered off -- had failed and that this was causing bootup problems when you left the unit disconnected long enough for the faulty battery to drain. But I don't even know if the Anthems work that way.


In any event, this is not something you should have to put up with. Give Anthem a call and see if they can track this down for you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I got a cryptic email back from Nick at Anthem responding to my message to him that, now that the 7.1 to 5.1 down-mix bug is fixed in the "test" D2v V2.03d firmware, letting the D2v do the down-mix of 7.1 input LPCM from my PS3 sounds *BETTER* then telling the PS3 to do the down-mix to begin with and send 5.1 LPCM to the D2v. [NOTE: I've only tested this with a limited number of discs so far.]


He says he can't go into details due to non-disclosure restrictions, but that although the base decoding of the lossless audio formats is the same in either the PS3 (or any decoding player) or the D2v, the implementation of additional features such as down-mixing *CAN* be different.


The bottom line for D2v and AVM 50v owners with 5.1 speaker setups, is that it is probably better to set your player(s) to output 7.1 to the D2v and leave it to the D2v to do the down-mixing to 5.1. This only applies to cases where the player is set to do the decoding of course. If the player is sending a bitstream for decoding in the D2v, the player can't be doing any down-mixing.


--------------------------------------


But if this is confirmed by additional testing, this would be another advantage of the D2v/AVM 50v over the D2/AVM 50, since the older units are limited to a max of 5.1 LPCM input -- i.e., you have no choice but to let the player do the down-mixing.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k

Finally made the plunge today. D2v officially on order.... Now just the long drawn out waiting game.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16002428
> 
> 
> I got a cryptic email back from Nick at Anthem responding to my message to him that, now that the 7.1 to 5.1 down-mix bug is fixed in the "test" D2v V2.03d firmware, letting the D2v do the down-mix of 7.1 input LPCM from my PS3 sounds *BETTER* then telling the PS3 to do the down-mix to begin with and send 5.1 LPCM to the D2v. [NOTE: I've only tested this with a limited number of discs so far.]
> 
> 
> He says he can't go into details due to non-disclosure restrictions, but that although the base decoding of the lossless audio formats is the same in either the PS3 (or any decoding player) or the D2v, the implementation of additional features such as down-mixing *CAN* be different.
> 
> 
> The bottom line for D2v and AVM 50v owners with 5.1 speaker setups, is that it is probably better to set your player(s) to output 7.1 to the D2v and leave it to the D2v to do the down-mixing to 5.1. This only applies to cases where the player is set to do the decoding of course. If the player is sending a bitstream for decoding in the D2v, the player can't be doing any down-mixing.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> But if this is confirmed by additional testing, this would be another advantage of the D2v/AVM 50v over the D2/AVM 50, since the older units are limited to a max of 5.1 LPCM input -- i.e., you have no choice but to let the player do the down-mixing.
> 
> --Bob



Just curious if this downmix improvement is related to LPCM soundtracks only, or everything.


When a player decodes a 7.1 track and presents 5.1 outputs, there is indeed downmixing for LPCM happening, and only the player maker knows what goes on there. When it is playing a compressed track (TrueHD, etc), then the player does not perform downmixing to make the 5.1 PCM output, it just decodes the 5.1 presentation already in the soundtrack, as made by the production house/encoder.


If Anthem is cooking a new downmix for everything, it may sound nice, but it might not be "correct." Might be fine, but hard to say until they explain what's going on in their downmixer.


I wonder what they mean wrt "can't go into details due to non-disclosure restrictions." Since Dolby has no restrictions on post-processing (and I believe DTS is the same), that cannot be the non-disclosure issue at hand. Maybe they just want to keep their downmix process under wraps for a while longer. It'll be easy enough to analyse it with some test signals, though.


----------



## Carlton Bale




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15997219
> 
> 
> There are two flavors of serial cable. The one you use for firmware updates and the like is a "straight through" cable -- pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9. The other has one pair of pins swapped. Your extender may need the other type of serial cable. Check its manual.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't do it for you, I'll have to refer you to Anthem tech support. You may need to make a setting change in the D2 Setup menu related to RS-232 communications.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joealbracht* /forum/post/15997214
> 
> 
> Carlton,
> 
> Have you tried changing the D2 Setup>trigger/IR/RS232>RS-232 TX Status to "ON"?
> 
> 
> My AMX installer tells me the AMX system needs ON.
> 
> Anthem's ARC software needs OFF. So I toggle it depending on what I'm doing.
> 
> No experience with Pronto.



Thanks guys, I'll give both of these suggestions a try and let you know what solves the problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Roger,

I haven't done enough testing to be sure, but I believe the down-mix the D2v is doing to take 7.1 HDMI LPCM input and produce 5.1 speaker output is producing the same result as when I feed the 7.1 HDMI Bitstream track from the Oppo BDP-83 to the D2v and let the D2v do both the decoding and the down-mix.


This is awfully tough to nail down. For one thing there are still some Oppo issues being worked on. And of course I can't compare with Bitstream output from the PS3 since the PS3 doesn't do that.


What I can say is that the surround field I'm getting from "Hairspray" Blu-Ray (a 7.1 DTS-HD MA New Line release that happens to use the odd-ball "alternate speaker presentation" for the rears) where the PS3 is doing the decoding to 7.1 HDMI LPCM and the D2v is doing the down-mixing to 5.1 speakers, is the best I've ever heard for this disc from the PS3.


-----------------------------------


I doubt I'll be able to get any more details from Nick on this. So we'll just have to try stuff and see what we get.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/16003285
> 
> 
> Finally made the plunge today. D2v officially on order.... Now just the long drawn out waiting game.



And so the back order queue builds!










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" ARC V2.0.2 Now on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page!*


A new "test" version of ARC, V2.0.2, has now appeared on Anthem's password protected download page.


The change notes for the V2.x.x ARC releases (changes since ARC V1.2.5) now read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.0.2:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed gain matching for frequencies above max EQ frequency.
> 
> 
> 2. Minor (may not be noticeable) improvement to calculation procedure to improve accuracy of filters. If opening an older file, re-calculate and re-upload to get the improvements.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.0.1:
> 
> 
> 1. Added ARC to D2v and AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> 2. Change to how sub crossover frequency is selected to address cases where the sub is a lot closer to the listener than the center channel, causing dialog to be heard from the sub if its crossover was set high enough.
> 
> 
> 3. More settings available for configurations not using a subwoofer. Note that while the front channels will be set to Large in the setup menu, ARC will still create a low frequency contour on the room correction target based on response at those frequencies. This cutoff frequency, displayed in the Targets panel, is separate from the bass manager's crossover.
> 
> 
> 4. The Targets panel also has options for setting the processor's bass manager to run channels at full range. These are best left unchecked, especially for surround channels since surround speakers are usually smaller.
> 
> 
> 5. Selecting Rears for measurement is not allowed if Surrounds are unselected. (In a 5.1 system use Surround channels, not Rears.)
> 
> 
> 6. Improved measurement at very low frequencies. Since this relates to frequencies below the lowest note on a bass guitar, it may not make a difference depending on existing in-room response.
> 
> 
> 7. Improved measurement at very high frequencies.
> 
> 
> If you have a file measured with ARC v1.2 to v1.2.5, remeasurement is not necessary. To convert the file format just open the file with the latest version of ARC, calculate, and upload. If you are uploading a file created for an AVM 40, AVM 50, D1, or D2 to an AVM 50v or D2v, ARC will ask for confirmation that you want to convert the file for use with the newer model.



Note that whatever change happened between "official" ARC V2.0.1 and "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 has apparently been folded into "test" ARC V2.0.2. The download folder also includes the updates to the D2v and AVM 50v manuals that first appeared on March 6.


Since Nick at Anthem mentioned over a week ago that they were waiting for just "one more thing" before making the next "official" ARC release, it is entirely possible that "test" ARC V2.0.2 may become "official" even as soon as this evening.


Stay tuned!

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

I just finished the long process of phase matching my 4 JL F113 subs using Bob P's method (thank you so much for the info, it was helpful) and I then did the measurements using the ARC 2.0.1 official version. Everything went smoothly. The sound quality is the best it's ever been. The imaging and foley details are just outstanding. The bass is good but I must confess that I feel there is just a little less impact than with the previous version. It's not a case of me being used to resonance or boom from previous measurements but just less "physical" sensation than what I know my subs and speakers can do. Anyone else felt this way? I know that people seem to like the 2.0.1.1 and I'm waiting for the next official version before updating again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/16004634
> 
> 
> I just finished the long process of phase matching my 4 JL F113 subs using Bob P's method (thank you so much for the info, it was helpful) and I then did the measurements using the ARC 2.0.1 official version. Everything went smoothly. The sound quality is the best it's ever been. The imaging and foley details are just outstanding. The bass is good but I must confess that I feel there is just a little less impact than with the previous version. It's not a case of me being used to resonance or boom from previous measurements but just less "physical" sensation than what I know my subs and speakers can do. Anyone else felt this way? I know that people seem to like the 2.0.1.1 and I'm waiting for the next official version before updating again.



I think you'll be pleased with the what the next "official" version adds to bass -- particularly in the subsonics. But we'll just have to wait to see what actually makes it into the version that becomes "official".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15991230
> 
> 
> Using the "test" D2v V2.03d firmware:
> 
> 
> "Hellboy II" Blu-Ray has a 7.1 DTS-HD MA track as its default audio track.
> 
> 
> If the Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player is set to HDMI LPCM output (decoding in the Oppo), the Select displays in the D2v show it is receiving 7.1 HDMI LPCM 48KHz audio as expected.
> 
> 
> But if the Oppo is set to HDMI Bitstream output (decoding in the D2v), the Select displays in the D2v show it is receiving only 5.1 HDMI DTS-HD MA 48KHz audio.
> 
> 
> Anthem and Oppo have both been alerted since it is not clear which product has the bug here. My guess is that the bug is in the D2v firmware. The HDMI Bitstreamed audio sounds fine to me, so the bug may be nothing more than a formatting error in that D2v Select display.
> 
> 
> This is a Universal title, so I don't think it has the "alternate speaker presentation" issue found with some older New Line titles.
> 
> --Bob



It turns out this bug is intermittent.


It can also be demonstrated using "Hairspray" Blu-Ray.


It is still not clear if this is an Oppo BDP-83 bug or an Anthem D2v bug.


Oppo and Anthem are looking into it.


ETA: 3/10/09 -- The new "Pinocchio" Blu-Ray release also exhibits this problem. Oppo and Anthem have been alerted.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16004573
> 
> *New "Test" ARC V2.0.2 Now on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> A new "test" version of ARC, V2.0.2, has now appeared on Anthem's password protected download page.
> 
> 
> The change notes for the V2.x.x ARC releases (changes since ARC V1.2.5) now read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that whatever change happened between "official" ARC V2.0.1 and "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 has apparently been folded into "test" ARC V2.0.2. The download folder also includes the updates to the D2v and AVM 50v manuals that first appeared on March 6.
> 
> 
> Since Nick at Anthem mentioned over a week ago that they were waiting for just "one more thing" before making the next "official" ARC release, it is entirely possible that "test" ARC V2.0.2 may become "official" even as soon as this evening.
> 
> 
> Stay tuned!
> 
> --Bob



Attempted upload of 2.0.2 into my D2 and had situation. The upload process began as normal - uploaded gains then D2 shut down and error message re:upload appeared.

This happened on 3 different attempts.

Once again I am on a D2.

Have notified Nick.

Cheers!

/\\/\\


----------



## jayray

Just switched my hdmi cable from my XA2 hddvd player and after three movies, no thumping. Will keep trying but so far so good.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16005774
> 
> 
> Just switched my hdmi cable from my XA2 hddvd player and after three movies, no thumping. Will keep trying but so far so good.
> 
> John



Amazing! I don't think I've heard of any other cases where a thumping bass problem like this was tracked down to a cable problem.


Good for you for trying the cable swap!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/16005764
> 
> 
> Attempted upload of 2.0.2 into my D2 and had situation. The upload process began as normal - uploaded gains then D2 shut down and error message re:upload appeared.
> 
> This happened on 3 different attempts.
> 
> Once again I am on a D2.
> 
> Have notified Nick.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> /\\/\\



Did you do a new Measurement or did you do a re-Calculation of an old Measurement?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Got the same problem with ARC 2.02. Gains upload but D2v shuts off right after that. Failure to Verify is displayed. Tried 4 times same result. emailed Nick. I uninstalled 2.01.1 and installed 2.02. Took todays measurements with 2.01.1 and autodetected. Recalculated and tried to upload.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well that's why stuff is put out for test before being put on the public download page! It's probably something simple.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/16005764
> 
> 
> Attempted upload of 2.0.2 into my D2 and had situation. The upload process began as normal - uploaded gains then D2 shut down and error message re:upload appeared.
> 
> This happened on 3 different attempts.
> 
> Once again I am on a D2.
> 
> Have notified Nick.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> /\\/\\




Me got same error.. can't seem to upload the ARC results with this version...


Oh well, wanted to hear it..


----------



## jayray

ARC 2.0.3 beta, now on download page. Presumably fixes the upload issue according to Nick.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16009257
> 
> 
> ARC 2.0.3 beta, now on download page. Presumably fixes the upload issue according to Nick.
> 
> John



Well at least they didn't post ARC V2.0.2 on Friday -- forcing us to stay frustrated all through the weekend!










Change notes for the ARC V2.x.x releases (changes since ARC V1.2.5) now read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.0.3:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for v2.0.2 upload problem.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.0.2:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed gain matching for frequencies above max EQ frequency.
> 
> 
> 2. Minor (may not be noticeable) improvement to calculation procedure to improve accuracy of filters. If opening an older file, re-calculate and re-upload to get the improvements.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.0.1:
> 
> 
> 1. Added ARC to D2v and AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> 2. Change to how sub crossover frequency is selected to address cases where the sub is a lot closer to the listener than the center channel, causing dialog to be heard from the sub if its crossover was set high enough.
> 
> 
> 3. More settings available for configurations not using a subwoofer. Note that while the front channels will be set to Large in the setup menu, ARC will still create a low frequency contour on the room correction target based on response at those frequencies. This cutoff frequency, displayed in the Targets panel, is separate from the bass manager's crossover.
> 
> 
> 4. The Targets panel also has options for setting the processor's bass manager to run channels at full range. These are best left unchecked, especially for surround channels since surround speakers are usually smaller.
> 
> 
> 5. Selecting Rears for measurement is not allowed if Surrounds are unselected. (In a 5.1 system use Surround channels, not Rears.)
> 
> 
> 6. Improved measurement at very low frequencies. Since this relates to frequencies below the lowest note on a bass guitar, it may not make a difference depending on existing in-room response.
> 
> 
> 7. Improved measurement at very high frequencies.
> 
> 
> If you have a file measured with ARC v1.2 to v1.2.5, remeasurement is not necessary. To convert the file format just open the file with the latest version of ARC, calculate, and upload. If you are uploading a file created for an AVM 40, AVM 50, D1, or D2 to an AVM 50v or D2v, ARC will ask for confirmation that you want to convert the file for use with the newer model.



The D2v and AVM 50v manuals remain at that version released on March 6. The Utilities remain at the versions that shipped with the original ARC V2.0.0.


As always with "test" software, be prepared for surprises. But the fact that this version also has a 3 digit version number, is another indication they are very close to making it the new, "official" release.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Bob,


Download page for both Test1 and Test2 cannot be accessed. Something's up?


Ben


----------



## jayray

The test folders don't have anything in them. The beta versions of ARC and Firmware now have their own folders at the the top of the page.

John


----------



## jayray




Bob Pariseau said:


> Well at least they didn't post ARC V2.0.2 on Friday -- forcing us to stay frustrated all through the weekend!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think Nick knows us pretty well by now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16010374
> 
> 
> The test folders don't have anything in them. The beta versions of ARC and Firmware now have their own folders at the the top of the page.
> 
> John



Oops. Blinkered eyes.










Ben


----------



## jayray

Uploaded ARC 2.0.3 and all is well. One observation when doing the recalculations with my two day old measurements was that the calculation for movie and music went really fast. Usually it takes me 2.5 min but today it took less than a minute. Not complaining







but it seemed weird. And no, I didn't get a new laptop









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16011616
> 
> 
> Uploaded ARC 2.0.3 and all is well. One observation when doing the recalculations with my two day old measurements was that the calculation for movie and music went really fast. Usually it takes me 2.5 min but today it took less than a minute. Not complaining
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but it seemed weird. And no, I didn't get a new laptop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Did you use a file with just Measurements in it? Or did you use a file that also held your previous Calculated results?


I wonder if it might have used some intermediate results found in the Calculated results file to speed things up for this re-Calculation?


I guess we won't know until the next time you do a new Measurement.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

This is unusual because I have done many measurements and done many recalculations, using many diff variables and this was much faster than the last few versions of ARC. I used a previous file which had been recalculated. Same as I have done many times.

John

I emailed Nick asking him if he knows.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just did an Auto Detect and Calculation at 20KHz with ARC V2.0.3 using a copy of a Measurements file (no Calculated results in this file) produced using ARC V2.0.1.1 and firmware V2.02c.


I didn't notice any significant speedup in the Calculation process. The resulting charts also match what I had before. Off to do an Upload now.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16011764
> 
> 
> This is unusual because I have done many measurements and done many recalculations, using many diff variables and this was much faster than the last few versions of ARC. I used a previous file which had been recalculated. Same as I have done many times.
> 
> John
> 
> I emailed Nick asking him if he knows.



I saw the same thing, and have done the same thing in the past.


The same behavior with the new ARC is like 2-4x faster now.


----------



## jayray

Just got an email from Nick re the faster calculations.


"One of the other improvements was to keep a cache of some intermediate results during calculations so they can be re-used rather than recomputed every time. This is what gave the speed improvement"


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16012481
> 
> 
> Just got an email from Nick re the faster calculations.
> 
> 
> "One of the other improvements was to keep a cache of some intermediate results during calculations so they can be re-used rather than recomputed every time. This is what gave the speed improvement"
> 
> 
> John



Cool! I wonder if that caching speeds things up for everyone or only for folks who need certain specific calculations to get to the solution. My Calculation time was never all that long to begin with, so perhaps I don't get the speedup. It may also make a difference that I'm only doing a 5.1 speaker setup.


--------------------------------


I had no problem with my Upload and **WOW!** it sounds great!


I honestly don't know where they keep finding ways to improve this stuff, but there it is!


And for folks who were looking for the extra subsonic bass extension that came with "test" ARC V2.0.1.1, it is still in there.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Can you be more specific about the WOW.


----------



## Warpdrv

Anyone experience any problems with Panasonic Plasma with flicker, please excuse me as I am not very knowledgable about these things, but I want to steer clear of a display if there is an issue I should be aware of... "24fps input displayed at 48Hz flicker problem"


I'm looking at buying the Panasonic TH-65PZ850U for a 1080p display....


Or would I simply not be having to worry about those types of inputs when I can make the choice in the D2v.


I have owned quite a few Panasonic Plasmas already, but have held off on upgrading to 1080p, and now that I have the D2v on the way, I figured it would be a good time to start to make the move...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16013110
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Can you be more specific about the WOW.



It's getting harder! How do you describe the difference between "great!" and "extra great!"?


There are some things I key off of, like airiness around percussion, richness of detail in sound tracks, presence in space of sounds we are all familiar with, and probably a bunch of stuff I can't put a name on but which I pick up subconsciously.


I think I'll just stick with **WOW!**

--Bob


----------



## jayray

That's good enough for me Bob. Will try mine tomorrow.

John


----------



## wabbit636

Bob,


I agree that the best bang for my bick is to go with a projector vice the upgrade for the D2 if I can only do 1 of them.


I have another question.....


I have decided to buy the new Epson 6500UB which has the Silicon Optix HQV Reon-VX processor. Would the PQ be lowered if the old D2 (older video processor) processes the image before going to the projector compared to just sending the signal straight from the PS3 to the projector and by passing the D2?? If I send the signal straight from HDTV receiver & PS3 to the projector....what advatages or disadvantages is there by doing this with my old D2?


I am trying to evaluate the requirement to upgrade to the D2V sooner than later if there will be a significant improvement in PQ & sound quality.


Thanks!


Pat


----------



## Carlton Bale




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joealbracht* /forum/post/15997214
> 
> 
> Carlton,
> 
> Have you tried changing the D2 Setup>trigger/IR/RS232>RS-232 TX Status to "ON"?
> 
> 
> My AMX installer tells me the AMX system needs ON.
> 
> Anthem's ARC software needs OFF. So I toggle it depending on what I'm doing.
> 
> No experience with Pronto.



I fixed my Pronto Professional RS-232 problem. I didn't have to turn RS-232 TXstatus to on, but the solution was in the same menu. The baud rate is configurable and was set to 19,200 on my D2 but I had my Pronto set to transmit at 9,600. I made one setting change and everything immediately started working with all commands. And let me tell you, there are a ton of commands via RS-232. I have most of them entered into my Pronto database but I don't think I'll ever use the majority of them.


By the way, the RS-232 TX status simply echos the commands and status changes back over the serial port. This is useful if you set your remote up for 2-way communication (where it displays volume, input, and other info on the remote), or if the remote is looking for confirmation that a command is sent properly. I'm only worried about 1-way control for now, but may spend some time writing the 2-way status code sometime in the future.


Thanks for pointing me in the right direction; it's nice to finally have a universal remote that is universal.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/16013591
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I agree that the best bang for my bick is to go with a projector vice the upgrade for the D2 if I can only do 1 of them.
> 
> 
> I have another question.....
> 
> 
> I have decided to buy the new Epson 6500UB which has the Silicon Optix HQV Reon-VX processor. Would the PQ be lowered if the old D2 (older video processor) processes the image before going to the projector compared to just sending the signal straight from the PS3 to the projector and by passing the D2?? If I send the signal straight from HDTV receiver & PS3 to the projector....what advatages or disadvantages is there by doing this with my old D2?
> 
> 
> I am trying to evaluate the requirement to upgrade to the D2V sooner than later if there will be a significant improvement in PQ & sound quality.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Pat



Well it is certainly going to be easiest to send the signal through the D2, since otherwise you are going to have to split the HDMI.


I think you will end up being happiest letting the D2 process the video to the native resolution of your new projector -- which leaves the REON with no work to do.


But really the only way you will know for sure is to try it both ways and see for yourself -- being careful to calibrate the video separately each way.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/16013598
> 
> 
> I fixed my Pronto Professional RS-232 problem. I didn't have to turn RS-232 TXstatus to on, but the solution was in the same menu. The baud rate is configurable and was set to 19,200 on my D2 but I had my Pronto set to transmit at 9,600. I made one setting change and everything immediately started working with all commands. And let me tell you, there are a ton of commands via RS-232. I have most of them entered into my Pronto database but I don't think I'll ever use the majority of them.
> 
> 
> By the way, the RS-232 TX status simply echos the commands and status changes back over the serial port. This is useful if you set your remote up for 2-way communication (where it displays volume, input, and other info on the remote), or if the remote is looking for confirmation that a command is sent properly. I'm only worried about 1-way control for now, but may spend some time writing the 2-way status code sometime in the future.
> 
> 
> Thanks for pointing me in the right direction; it's nice to finally have a universal remote that is universal.



Cool! Don't forget you will probably want to reset the serial back to 19,200 before doing ARC setup or firmware installs.

--Bob


----------



## m396 #00-011

OT, so far page 666 has gone by without any Anthem failure reports....


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16013623
> 
> 
> Well it is certainly going to be easiest to send the signal through the D2, since otherwise you are going to have to split the HDMI.
> 
> 
> I think you will end up being happiest letting the D2 process the video to the native resolution of your new projector -- which leaves the REON with no work to do.
> 
> 
> But really the only way you will know for sure is to try it both ways and see for yourself -- being careful to calibrate the video separately each way.
> 
> --Bob



Bob.....thanks....


In a quick brief explanation.......what is the difference between the D2/D2v's video processor and that of a projectors? Do they do the exact same thing or does the D2 video processor serve a different purpose in the process?


The HDMI would not have to be split as the PJ has 2 ports. Trying both to see the differences would be the best option but time consuming.


Thanks!


Pat


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Page counts on AVS depend on how people have post/page set up on their account....

--Bob


----------



## Carlton Bale




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/16004634
> 
> 
> I just finished the long process of phase matching my 4 JL F113 subs. . .



I now officially have subwoofer envy.


The D2V made it onto EngadgetHD today. You can read the comments if you're in need of amusement.

http://www.engadgethd.com/2009/03/10...p-d2v-pre-pro/


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/16013652
> 
> 
> Bob.....thanks....
> 
> 
> In a quick brief explanation.......what is the difference between the D2/D2v's video processor and that of a projectors? Do they do the exact same thing or does the D2 video processor serve a different purpose in the process?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Pat



Essentially it is the same thing. The devil is in the details. And there are a LOT of details.


Basically you want to have each type of processing happen only once -- done by whichever processor does it better. But some things (like de-interlacing) have to happen before other things (like scaling) so you don't have complete freedom to pick and choose.


Of course the Anthem also strips the audio out of the HDMI and takes care of that.

--Bob


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16013686
> 
> 
> Essentially it is the same thing. The devil is in the details. And there are a LOT of details.
> 
> 
> Basically you want to have each type of processing happen only once -- done by whichever processor does it better. But some things (like de-interlacing) have to happen before other things (like scaling) so you don't have complete freedom to pick and choose.
> 
> 
> Of course the Anthem also strips the audio out of the HDMI and takes care of that.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks again....


I really wish Anthem would add a feature that allows you to not process the PQ and act as a HDMI switcher so that we can take advantage of the better video processor of newer displays/projectors when we upgrade.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16012643
> 
> 
> 
> I had no problem with my Upload and **WOW!** it sounds great!



Did you need to do a re-measure or just a recalculate.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16013791
> 
> 
> Did you need to do a re-measure or just a recalculate.



I did an Auto Detect (which produced no changes I could see) and a re-Calculation at 20KHz based on a copy of a Measurements file I made with "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 while "test" firmware V2.02c was in my D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16012039
> 
> 
> I just did an Auto Detect and Calculation at 20KHz with ARC V2.0.3 using a copy of a Measurements file (no Calculated results in this file) produced using ARC V2.0.1.1 and firmware V2.02c.
> 
> 
> I didn't notice any significant speedup in the Calculation process. The resulting charts also match what I had before. Off to do an Upload now.
> 
> --Bob



So ARC v2.0.3 is the one to have now. Sounds like it is great. No problems you know of correct?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bob pariseau* /forum/post/16013904
> 
> 
> i did an auto detect (which produced no changes i could see) and a re-calculation at 20khz based on a copy of a measurements file i made with "test" arc v2.0.1.1 while "test" firmware v2.02c was in my d2v.
> 
> --bob



thanks


----------



## neff2k

I say that once we get close to 20,000 posts say 19,998 or so, no one should post except for the one and only cookie giver..... I feel it only right for someone who has probably contributed at least half of the post in this thread to have the honors of breaking that 20K mark!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/16013912
> 
> 
> So ARC v2.0.3 is the one to have now. Sounds like it is great. No problems you know of correct?



So far the only problem I know of is that Anthem has not yet blessed it as "official" and put it on the public download pages.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/16013754
> 
> 
> Thanks again....
> 
> 
> I really wish Anthem would add a feature that allows you to not process the PQ and act as a HDMI switcher so that we can take advantage of the better video processor of newer displays/projectors when we upgrade.



It's highly unlikely you'll find a better VP in a display. It's not just the chip, it's also the implementation of the chip.


The D2v VP is one of the best VP implementations out there today.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/16014071
> 
> 
> I say that once we get close to 20,000 posts say 19,998 or so, no one should post except for the one and only cookie giver..... I feel it only right for someone who has probably contributed at least half of the post in this thread to have the honors of breaking that 20K mark!



I decline this honor. Keep the thread going as normal -- except of course for the fireworks and the key to the city presentation...










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/16013754
> 
> 
> Thanks again....
> 
> 
> I really wish Anthem would add a feature that allows you to not process the PQ and act as a HDMI switcher so that we can take advantage of the better video processor of newer displays/projectors when we upgrade.



Anthem already tried that with the AVM 40. It was a flop in the marketplace.


The video processing in the D2, D2v, AVM 50, and AVM 50v is just too good.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2v: Repeatable audio failure playing "Pinocchio" Blu-Ray on PS3*


I have a repeatable audio failure when playing the new "Pinocchio" Blu-Ray on the PS3.


Set the PS3 to output 7.1 HDMI LPCM to the D2v. It may or may not be relevant that I have a 5.1 speaker configuration.


Play "Pinocchio" Blu-Ray, get to the Top Menu and select play. The default 7.1 DTS-HD MA track will be decoded by the PS3 and output as 7.1 HDMI LPCM 48KHz to the D2v.


Once the movie starts, Chapter Forward to chapter 10, then fast forward to just before time code 33:26.


Audio from time code 33:26 to 33:36 will be obviously screwed up -- very raspy. The error is not subtle; you can't miss it. I believe the error is isolated to the Center channel but I'm not sure of that.


This same segment plays without problem from the Oppo BDP-83 when the Oppo is also set to decode and output 7.1 HDMI LPCM 48KHz. However I very much doubt this is a PS3 decoding problem. I think the problem is in the D2v, and that the PS3 and the Oppo are just sending things slightly differently during this segment.


The usual tricks of cycling to a different input and back or power cycling everything and starting over do not cure this problem.


Turning off ARC (Room EQ = OFF) does not cure this problem. Thus I think it likely this is a V2.03d firmware bug rather than an ARC V2.0.3 bug.


However turning off the 7.1 output options on the PS3, so that the PS3 does the down-mix and outputs 5.1 HDMI LPCM 48KHz *DOES* cure this problem! Among other things, this indicates it is not a disc problem, even when read by my PS3.


Anthem has been alerted.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16012643
> 
> 
> Cool! I wonder if that caching speeds things up for everyone or only for folks who need certain specific calculations to get to the solution. My Calculation time was never all that long to begin with, so perhaps I don't get the speedup. It may also make a difference that I'm only doing a 5.1 speaker setup.
> 
> --Bob



Same here, Bob. It wasn't that slow previously, but it's about twice as fast now.


On thing I noticed is that (at least in the 100-200Hz region), if the Measured dip is more than 5dB as compared to the Target, the Calculated will tend to deviate more from the Target by about 1-2dB even with the max freq at 5k.

Ben


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16014096
> 
> 
> Anthem already tried that with the AVM 40. It was a flop in the marketplace.
> 
> 
> The video processing in the D2, D2v, AVM 50, and AVM 50v is just too good.
> 
> --Bob



The AVM40 was also a dead end with no possibility to get it upgraded to the AVM50.


----------



## Tolstoi

Still no news from Anthem on the D2 to D2v upgrade. They are still fully engaged into reducing the D2v orders backlog.


----------



## Tolstoi

The JVC RS20 and the D2 is the best combo I ever experienced.


I could only image what a combo D2v and RS20 would give me


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/16016129
> 
> 
> Still no news from Anthem on the D2 to D2v upgrade. They are still fully engaged into reducing the D2v orders backlog.



And issuing replacement D2v's to the few of us who have had problematic units. My replacement unit is working perfectly - no more tweeter-surround-itis.


I spent about 3 hours on Sunday trying out different setup combinations of audio and video settings between the D2v and my Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD and my Panasonic PZ850U plasma. Quite an interesting day using Body of Lies and Kung-Fu Panda as test discs. The sounds are as scintillating as the picture. Gotta love the world of HD audio and video.


Now that I have 8 HDMI inputs, I even reinstalled my Toshiba HD-DVD player.


Next on the agenda is an upgrade to ARC v2.03.


And soon, somebody will be post numero 20K.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/16016129
> 
> 
> Still no news from Anthem on the D2 to D2v upgrade. They are still fully engaged into reducing the D2v orders backlog.



Ah sorry to hear that because I think I will be adding to that D2v queue soon...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/16016187
> 
> 
> And issuing replacement D2v's to the few of us who have had problematic units. My replacement unit is working perfectly - no more tweeter-surround-itis.
> 
> 
> I spent about 3 hours on Sunday trying out different setup combinations of audio and video settings between the D2v and my Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD and my Panasonic PZ850U plasma. Quite an interesting day using Body of Lies and Kung-Fu Panda as test discs. The sounds are as scintillating as the picture. Gotta love the world of HD audio and video.
> 
> 
> Now that I have 8 HDMI inputs, I even reinstalled my Toshiba HD-DVD player.
> 
> 
> Next on the agenda is an upgrade to ARC v2.03.
> 
> 
> And soon, somebody will be post numero 20K.



Stan,

I was getting some thumping from my sub with my XA2 hddvd player. It seems that it has been solved by replacing the hdmi cable. When you get your hddvd set up, check that there is no low freq. when pausing, FF or stopping.

John


----------



## tbailey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16016587
> 
> 
> Stan,
> 
> I was getting some thumping from my sub with my XA2 hddvd player. It seems that it has been solved by replacing the hdmi cable. When you get your hddvd set up, check that there is no low freq. when pausing, FF or stopping.
> 
> John



I have a Toshiba HD-A2 and have not heard any anomolies other than spectacular sound with my D2.


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/16016129
> 
> 
> Still no news from Anthem on the D2 to D2v upgrade. They are still fully engaged into reducing the D2v orders backlog.



Sorry, but I just couldn't resist adding to that order backlog

















And it is extremely impressive that a product which isn't even on their website is so backlogged in today's economy. That is really saying a lot about the D2v!


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/16016129
> 
> 
> Still no news from Anthem on the D2 to D2v upgrade. They are still fully engaged into reducing the D2v orders backlog.



Perhaps this is the master plan! They want us poor, pathetic D2 owners to get so wound up we put our beloved D2's on Audiogon and order a new

D2v...


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/16017448
> 
> 
> Perhaps this is the master plan! They want us poor, pathetic D2 owners to get so wound up we put our beloved D2's on Audiogon and order a new
> 
> D2v...



If so, it worked for this AVM 50 owner... Original plan was to just upgrade. Although I put a lot of the blame on all the current D2v owners. Their excitement forced me to do it. Or as I tell the wife, "They made me do it!" Oh wait not telling the wife about this one, never mind!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm keeping an eye out, but so far no new Backorder Report for this week.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/16017448
> 
> 
> Perhaps this is the master plan! They want us poor, pathetic D2 owners to get so wound up we put our beloved D2's on Audiogon and order a new
> 
> D2v...




I have to control that tentation on a daily bases.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/16017177
> 
> 
> Sorry, but I just couldn't resist adding to that order backlog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it is extremely impressive that a product which isn't even on their website is so backlogged in today's economy. That is really saying a lot about the D2v!



It is. All my other contacts in the industries are seriously suffering.


----------



## jayray

Just talked to Nick and it looks like we'll see a new official version of ARC soon

given v. 2.0.3 and it's positive reviews. I have tried my usual BR discs and I'll have to agree with Bob's assessment, WOW.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16018470
> 
> 
> Just talked to Nick and it looks like we'll see a new official version of ARC soon
> 
> given v. 2.0.3 and it's positive reviews. I have tried my usual BR discs and I'll have to agree with Bob's assessment, WOW.
> 
> John



I'll have to give this new ARC a Try on Thursday when I

have some FREE Play Time. I had noticed a Big Improvement

in base response from the last test version I used.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16018534
> 
> 
> I'll have to give this new ARC a Try on Thursday when I
> 
> have some FREE Play Time. I had noticed a Big Improvement
> 
> in base response from the last test version I used.



As best I can tell the bass is unchanged between "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 (the version where the subsonic bass extension improved so dramatically) and "test" ARC V2.0.3.


Whatever new is going on in V2.0.3 appears to be in the mid-range and up. I still can't quantify what has changed.


So far the only issue I have is the 7.1 HDMI LPCM input from "Pinocchio" off my PS3, but I continue to think that's a firmware V2.03d problem -- probably related to what the D2v is doing to down-mix that for my 5.1 speaker setup. No word back from Nick yet.


-------------------------------------------


Nick assures me that ARC is the same in all hardware that supports ARC, so I'm hoping that what I'm hearing with "test" ARC V2.0.3 on my D2v carries over to folks using the D2, AVM 50, and D1. We'll just have to see as more folks try it.


If you don't have Measurements taken with at least "test" ARC V2.0.1.1, my recommendation would be to re-Measure, despite the release notes saying you can use Measurements going all the way back to ARC V1.2.5.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16018722
> 
> 
> As best I can tell the bass is unchanged between "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 (the version where the subsonic bass extension improved so dramatically) and "test" ARC V2.0.3.
> 
> 
> Whatever new is going on in V2.0.3 appears to be in the mid-range and up. I still can't quantify what has changed.



I agree - 2011 did improve the base.


Further improvement in the Mid can not hurt.


I'll have time on Thursday to Re-measure and try it.


I know you answered me that I DID NOT have to Re-Measure

- but I should give that a try as well


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We've had several sets of ARC charts lately from folks using "combo" full-range front speakers where the Measured bass response is way out of line with what the speaker is producing at higher frequencies.


By "combo" here I mean a speaker with a built-in powered woofer or an attached, powered, satellite subwoofer which is fed from the same high-level input line that feeds the mid-range and tweeter in that speaker -- i.e., the line that comes from your power amp for that speaker.


If you are using a combo speaker like that, here are some suggestions for how to tame its powered bass.


----------------------------------------------------------


Some combo speakers may have no controls whatsoever to alter their bass response. In that case you are stuck. You will have to let ARC do its magic, or try to alter bass response by moving the speaker around.


Some other combo speakers have a single low frequency response adjustment with a small set of fixed choices. For example you may have a bass port you can open or close, or there may be a response curve switch. In such cases your best bet is to try an ARC Measurement with each choice and pick whichever gives you the best looking red Measured curves. You will probably find it best to use the SAME adjustment for the other speaker in that pair (e.g., LF and RF set the same).


But other combo speakers provide at least an internal volume control for their bass output. The fanciest may even provide a crossover adjustment that sets the transition between the powered bass and the normal mid-range, and even a phase adjustment -- again controlling that internal transition in the speaker.


These are the types of combo speakers I'm going to address here.


-----------------------------------------------


Typically these speakers want a single, high-level input feed. High-level means it is the output of your power amp.


The output of the Anthem is a low, or "line level" feed -- intended to be used as input to a power amp. This is true of the subwoofer output just as much as the main speaker outputs.


I'm going to assume your combo speaker wants a high-level input. If it wants a low level input then it has an internal amp for ALL of its speaker elements and you won't have a power amp between it and the Anthem.


----------------------------------------------


I'm going to assume your combo speakers are LF and RF.


The first thing to do is to take advantage of the volume control built into your combo speaker. Do this:


1) Go to Setup > Level Calibration and zero every line in that menu


2) Select Manual test mode in the first line


3) Go to the next line (Test Level in the V2.xx firmware, Noise Level in the V1.33 firmware) and adjust it so that you get 75db SPL. The tone will be coming from your LF speaker. Use ARC mic position #1 with the meter pointing straight up, set to "C" weighting and "Slow" response. A ball park setting is fine here.


4) Power everything down. Move the LF output wire from the Anthem temporarily to the Subwoofer output jack. IMPORTANT: Use the same type of subwoofer output (RCA or XLR) that you normally use for LF. The subwoofer test signal will now go through your normal power amp to the LF speaker.


NOTE: Disconnect ALL of your "normal" subwoofers while doing this. Verify that your Setup > Speaker Configuration is set for "1 Sub".


5) Power up. Go back into Setup > Level Calibration. Select Manual test mode. Scroll down to the Subwoofer line (either one). It will still be set to zero of course. Leave it at zero.


6) Using the bass volume control built into your LF combo speaker, adjust until you get 75dB SPL as measured above. The test tone put out for this line is a low frequency pink noise so it will drive primarily the powered bass portion of your combo speaker.


7) Now repeat. Move the output wire from the Anthem's subwoofer output back to the LF output and reset Test/Noise Level. This is to account for the change in output from your combo speaker for the bass volume change you just made. Then move it back to subwoofer output and refine the bass volume setting in your combo speaker. Again, ball park adjustments are probably good enough. One iteration like this will probably be plenty.


You will do the same thing for the RF speaker -- temporarily connecting it first to the LF output and then to the Subwoofer output and back.


--------------------------------------------------------


Once you have the internal bass volume control in each combo speaker set up this way, your next step is to deal with crossover and phase controls -- if present.


I suggest you start with phase.


1) Connect the combo speaker to the LF output and adjust Test/Noise level to produce roughly 75dB as above. Odds are you need no change here based on what you did above but double check.


2) Move the wire to the subwoofer output, and play the subwoofer test tone.


3) Using your ears, adjust the internal phase control built into you combo speaker to produce the maximum amount of bass. Concentrate on the HIGHER frequencies of the subwoofer test tone. The more of the higher frequencies you hear the better as what you are trying to do is eliminate any cancellation near the crossover frequencies due to audio playing both out of your powered woofer and your mid-range.


NOTE: Depending on the crossover setting currently in the Anthem for your subwoofer output, you may not hear enough high frequency bass to make this adjustment. In that case reconnect the combo speaker to the LF output and play a Phase Adjustment test tone from a calibration DVD. Use the same criteria to select the best Phase setting for the phase control built into your combo speaker.


Do this for each powered speaker that has a phase control.


------------------------------------------------------


After adjusting phase (if available) try to adjust any crossover built into your combo speaker. This will be the internal crossover in the speaker that decides which frequencies get played by the powered woofer and which get played by the mid-range. If you are lucky, there will be a manufacturer's recommended setting for this. Use that if so.


For any internal crossover control adjustment your best bet is to take an ARC Measurement and then make adjustments based on what you see in the red Measured curves.


1) Wire all speakers normally.


2) Go into Setup > Level Calibration and reset Test/Noise Level to produce 75dB SPL (tone will be coming from LF). All other lines in that menu should still be zero.


3) Run ARC in Advanced mode and do a Measurement pass. You can speed this up by only using your combo speakers -- e.g., tell ARC you have a 2.0 setup if LF/RF are your combo speakers. You will still have to Measure at at least 5 mic positions. Take your time and do it right. There is no need to Calculate or Upload.


4) Now look at the red Measured curves for your combo speakers. If you have a dip or peak near that speaker's internal crossover frequency -- particularly if it is a wide dip or peak (spanning an octave -- e.g, the high frequency end is twice the frequency of the low frequency end), then this is a sign the internal crossover in your combo speaker is set incorrectly. (A peak or dip spanning a smaller range of frequencies is likely just a room response.) Typically the crossover will be set too low yielding a dip -- i.e., the mid-range response drops off before the powered woofer response kicks in.


5) Don't worry about 5dB or less error. ARC will easily deal with that. But if the dip or peak is more than that, try adjusting the built-in crossover control in that speaker. Adjust each combo speaker as necessary. And then do a new ARC Measurement to see what improvement you get.


------------------------------------------------


At this point you should have all of your combo speakers set up as best as they can be given what they offer in internal controls. ARC will take it from there.


Now, with them wired up normally, do a full ARC setup and see if things finally look correct.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

And the crowd goes wild!





























OOOOOOOOOO!!










































































AAAAAAAAAAH!!











--Bob


----------



## gostan

Bob:


We would not have a 20K Thread without you!










Or Levesque!


----------



## osofast240sx

will anthem offer built-in Wi-Fi wireless network capabilities (802.11N/G/B/A)


----------



## LEVESQUE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/16019258
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> We would not have a 20K Thread without you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or Levesque!



Bob was the only one that could do the 20K post! Since ''Bob and associates'' are now approching 50 employes working 24/24 7/7, no one else could do that 20K post!










But it's incredible to see the popularity of ''esoteric'' products like the AVM50/D2/D2v. Reaching 20K posts and almost 900K views is unbelievable! Bravo Bob''s'' and Anthem!










At least, it's 4 times the number of posts and views of the ''golden-ear shrine of Zissou-I-like-the-attention-HDMI and Anthem are the devil'' thread... it's proving that alot of people in AVS have better ears then some self-proclaimed ''golden-ear'' concerning Anthem pre/pros SQ...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16019145
> 
> 
> And the crowd goes wild!
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



We are all GLAD you had the Honor and we Enjoyed the Fireworks.


Thanks Mr. 20K!


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *levesque* /forum/post/16019413
> 
> 
> at least, it's 4 times the number of posts and views of the ''golden-ear shrine of zissou-i-like-the-attention-hdmi and anthem are the devil'' thread... It's proving that alot of people in avs have better ears then some self-proclaimed ''golden-ear'' concerning anthem pre/pros sq...



+1 ^


----------



## obie_fl

Bob - Thanks for doing all you do here it is much appreciated. That post 19999 wasn't too shabby either as I would not have thought to use the SW output on my powered mains. You da man.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *osofast240sx* /forum/post/16019373
> 
> 
> will anthem offer built-in Wi-Fi wireless network capabilities (802.11N/G/B/A)



We have no reason to think that Anthem is considering adding Wi-Fi, or even wired ethernet, to the D2v or AVM 50v products.


You might want to send an email to Anthem tech support putting your vote in for this feature to be added to the list for whatever product comes next.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16019804
> 
> 
> We are all GLAD you had the Honor and we Enjoyed the Fireworks.
> 
> 
> Thanks Mr. 20K!




And the fireworks were even in HD....

















Must be the anthem Making the awesome picture quality...


----------



## bluemark81

Is there any setting within the Anthem that would prevent the "auto-size" feature on a Pioneer plasma not to automatically widen the picture when it is displaying a 4:3 image?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A little history:


This thread was started by LEVESQUE on March 31, 2006, even before the first D2 was sold (testing units had been out for a bit before that).


Post #10,000 was made by ROB TOMLIN on November 25, 2007 -- just under 20 months from the first post.


Post #20,000 was made today, March 11, 2009, by yours truly -- just under 16 months from post #10,000.


We've been at this for nearly 3 years, and the interest level, as measured by the rate of postings, is actually increasing. And this, DESPITE the fact that many of the most commonly asked questions are no longer being asked in new posts because of the collection of FAQ post links that have been built up in the first post of this thread.


As good as the video is from these products -- and the video from the new D2v and AVM 50v is simply outstanding -- I attribute the continued enthusiasm here largely to the success of ARC. ARC in combo with the video makes for one amazing product line.


Anthem deserves to be proud, and all the proud owners here have earned the right to preen a bit for having shown such good judgement.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16020857
> 
> 
> Is there any setting within the Anthem that would prevent the "auto-size" feature on a Pioneer plasma not to automatically widen the picture when it is displaying a 4:3 image?



Yes. If you are using Video Source Adjust > Scale Out > Letter/Pillar Box then the Anthem is adding Pillar Box bars to your 4:3 content.


That means the display is seeing 16:9 content from the Anthem -- some of which is the pillar box bars -- and thus it doesn't widen it when asked to do so.


Try using Anamorphic in the Anthem. The display will still see 16:9 input but there will be no pillar box bars added by the Anthem and so the effect will be that your 4:3 content fills the 16:9 frame from left to right.


While trying out the various combos of aspect ratio settings in your source, the Anthem, and your display to see which combos produce results you like, you might want to go into Setup > Video Output and temporarily change the Letterbox setting to something other than black. This will help you distinguish pillar box bars generated by the Anthem from ones generated in your source or display.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16020957
> 
> 
> Yes. If you are using Video Source Adjust > Scale Out > Letter/Pillar Box then the Anthem is adding Pillar Box bars to your 4:3 content.
> 
> 
> That means the display is seeing 16:9 content from the Anthem -- some of which is the pillar box bars -- and thus it doesn't widen it when asked to do so.
> 
> 
> Try using Anamorphic in the Anthem. The display will still see 16:9 input but there will be no pillar box bars added by the Anthem and so the effect will be that your 4:3 content fills the 16:9 frame from left to right.
> 
> 
> While trying out the various combos of aspect ratio settings in your source, the Anthem, and your display to see which combos produce results you like, you might want to go into Setup > Video Output and temporarily change the Letterbox setting to something other than black. This will help you distinguish pillar box bars generated by the Anthem from ones generated in your source or display.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Must be something else within the Anthem causing the TV's auto size feature not to work. I tried Anamorphic as you suggested and it did not fix the issue. I then tried bypassing the Anthem by feeding my Satellite receiver directly into the Pioneer and it does work as it is supposed to, so the settings within the TV are correct for the auto-size feature. So, I am assuming whatever is causing it not to function properly is some setting within the Anthem.


Is there anything else you can think of that might be causing this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't think you understand. After the scaling in the Anthem there's no longer any distinction between 4:3 and 16:9 content. It is all whatever aspect ratio you have defined in your Video Output settings. So there's nothing your display can see to determine what the content used to be.


That means you have to use settings in both the source and in the Anthem to stretch 4:3 content if that's what you want. In the Anthem the setting that does that is Anamorphic.


If your source has already added pillar box bars to 4:3 content you can use Crop Input 4:3 to extract the original 4:3 content from that. Anamorphic scaling will then stretch that horizontally to match the shape of your specified video output to the display.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16022079
> 
> 
> I don't think you understand. After the scaling in the Anthem there's no longer any distinction between 4:3 and 16:9 content. It is all whatever aspect ratio you have defined in your Video Output settings. So there's nothing your display can see to determine what the content used to be.
> 
> 
> That means you have to use settings in both the source and in the Anthem to stretch 4:3 content if that's what you want. In the Anthem the setting that does that is Anamorphic.
> 
> 
> If your source has already added pillar box bars to 4:3 content you can use Crop Input 4:3 to extract the original 4:3 content from that. Anamorphic scaling will then stretch that horizontally to match the shape of your specified video output to the display.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I think I understand what you are saying, but even if the TV cannot distinguish between 4:3 or 16:9, the Anthem itself does not appear to be doing the stretch to fill the screen when it sees a 4:3 image. I have the HDMI auto-detect selected in my Crop Input screen. If I select 4:3, then it will crop my 16:9 images which I do not want. In Scale Out, I have tried selecting all the selections.


See, what has me confused is that last week, when I first got the TV, when I watched a program that was displayed in a 4:3 aspect ratio, the image would automatically stretch to fill the screen. Suddenly this week, it is not working. I have made some changes in settings, but I didn't think I changed anything that would effect this, so I'm at a bit of a loss.


My Satellite receiver is set to 1080i and 16:9. This was never changed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Are you sure you weren't using 480i or 480p from the satellite receiver for SD channels when it used to work?

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16022315
> 
> 
> Are you sure you weren't using 480i or 480p from the satellite receiver for SD channels when it used to work?
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


That setting has not changed from the time I got the SAT receiver several months ago.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I updated today to v2.03D and ARC 2.03, these versions are getting confusing.


In my last report I stated that ARC 2.01.1 was not as good as 2.01, well I think I got a bogus set of measurements because after updating today I tried both new measurements and measurements taken with 2.01.1 and the difference is astounding.


I am listening now to Dire Straits Brother in Arms, a very revealing recording and it never sounded so good.


Anthem is Awesome!!!!


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16021947
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Must be something else within the Anthem causing the TV's auto size feature not to work. I tried Anamorphic as you suggested and it did not fix the issue. I then tried bypassing the Anthem by feeding my Satellite receiver directly into the Pioneer and it does work as it is supposed to, so the settings within the TV are correct for the auto-size feature. So, I am assuming whatever is causing it not to function properly is some setting within the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Is there anything else you can think of that might be causing this?



FWIW,

I set my D2 to 'Letter/pillar box' in the scale output selection, and 4:3 in the 'crop input' selection and it works fine for 4:3 content.

I have my tv (panny th-50pz800u) set for at 'pixel for pixel' and my oppo 980h is set to 480i, 16:9 wide(not wide/auto) for output.

Now thats possibly 2 different links in the chain, so it may not work for you, but it works in my set-up.

Tom

Sorry I see you're talking about satellite, not dvd.

My D2 is set to 'anamorphic' and 'hdmi auto' and 1080i out of the satellite box into the D2 and works fine. Sorry for the miunderstanding. Probably no help to your problem. Nevermind


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16022555
> 
> 
> FWIW,
> 
> I set my D2 to 'Letter/pillar box' in the scale output selection, and 4:3 in the 'crop input' selection and it works fine for 4:3 content.
> 
> I have my tv (panny th-50pz800u) set for at 'pixel for pixel' and my oppo 980h is set to 480i, 16:9 wide(not wide/auto) for output.
> 
> Now thats possibly 2 different links in the chain, so it may not work for you, but it works in my set-up.
> 
> Tom



Tom:


I tried that and on 16:9 HD programming, it ends up stretching the image, so unfortunately, that does not solve the issue either.


It's not a huge deal so long as I am around, but other family members have a habit of watching 4:3 content and not adjusting the image to fit the screen. Where it is a plasma display, if it did it automatically, as it was doing, I would not have to worry about image burn-in. So, I'm baffled what has changed so that it is no longer working.


----------



## PaulF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16020622
> 
> 
> We have no reason to think that Anthem is considering adding Wi-Fi, or even wired ethernet, to the D2v or AVM 50v products.
> 
> 
> You might want to send an email to Anthem tech support putting your vote in for this feature to be added to the list for whatever product comes next.
> 
> --Bob



I'll put my vote in here for a wired Ethernet port. That feature plus the ability to accept DSD over HDMI and I will buy one and build a HT room around it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem's password protected download page has been updated this evening to delete the prior "test" firmware version for the D2v and AVM 50v (V2.03b). The current "test" firmware version, V2.03d, is still there.


The release notes text file for this "test" firmware has also been updated, but I can't spot any changes in it. It may simply have been edited to fix a minor typo.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/16022806
> 
> 
> I'll put my vote in here for a wired Ethernet port. That feature plus the ability to accept DSD over HDMI and I will buy one and build a HT room around it.



Paul, understand that this thread isn't run by Anthem, so it is not guaranteed they will spot your comments if you only post them here.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k

Anyone have a link to the manual download page for D2v and ARC (If they are seperate)? I have combed the site but can't seem to find them.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16022699
> 
> 
> Tom:
> 
> 
> I tried that and on 16:9 HD programming, it ends up stretching the image, so unfortunately, that does not solve the issue either.
> 
> 
> It's not a huge deal so long as I am around, but other family members have a habit of watching 4:3 content and not adjusting the image to fit the screen. Where it is a plasma display, if it did it automatically, as it was doing, I would not have to worry about image burn-in. So, I'm baffled what has changed so that it is no longer working.



What's puzzling me is your comment that it used to work.


I wouldn't expect your satellite box to flag 1080i output as 4:3 even when viewing SD channels..


Is it possible your satellite provider just pushed new firmware into your satellite box?

--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16019145
> 
> 
> And the crowd goes wild!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> OOOOOOOOOO!!
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> AAAAAAAAAAH!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


How did you do that, taking the control over for this exceptional #20,000 post?

You did beat us to it, but if one person deserve it the most, it is you.










So I lift my hat to you and Congratulations, you can have any Anthem

processor that your heart desire.










_______

Bob


----------



## ninja12

Maybe it's me; but, since I have installed ARC V2.0.1, I have noticed a pattern. What I have seen with every measurement is whatever the cross over for the center channel is the same for the subwoofer when the results are uploaded. For example, my fronts, surrounds, and rears cross over at 60Hz; but, my center and subwoofer cross over at 65Hz. This has occurred on every measurement that I have taken using ARC V2.0.1. BTW, I am running D2 1.33 with ARC V2.0.1. Has anyone else noticed this? I could just be me; but, I was just wondering.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16020898
> 
> 
> A little history:
> 
> 
> This thread was started by LEVESQUE on March 31, 2006, even before the first D2 was sold (testing units had been out for a bit before that).
> 
> 
> Post #10,000 was made by ROB TOMLIN on November 25, 2007 -- just under 20 months from the first post.
> 
> 
> Post #20,000 was made today, March 11, 2009, by yours truly -- just under 16 months from post #10,000.
> 
> 
> We've been at this for nearly 3 years, and the interest level, as measured by the rate of postings, is actually increasing. And this, DESPITE the fact that many of the most commonly asked questions are no longer being asked in new posts because of the collection of FAQ post links that have been built up in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> As good as the video is from these products -- and the video from the new D2v and AVM 50v is simply outstanding -- I attribute the continued enthusiasm here largely to the success of ARC. ARC in combo with the video makes for one amazing product line.
> 
> 
> Anthem deserves to be proud, and all the proud owners here have earned the right to preen a bit for having shown such good judgement.
> 
> --Bob



That really is amazing, and it speaks volumes about both the quality and features of the Anthem, as well as the quality of help and advice given in this thread.


Congrats to all involved, especially to the person who made post number 20,000!


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/16022806
> 
> 
> I'll put my vote in here for a wired Ethernet port. That feature plus the ability to accept DSD over HDMI and I will buy one and build a HT room around it.



I'm with PaulF here. I am trying to justify the ~$2k cost of upgrading my D2 but its really hard, even with a 7 speaker system.


DSD over HDMI would be great - no two ways about it.


Ethernet would make our lives so much easier too. Firmware updates and ARC updates would be so much easier!


It wouldn't shock me if both these things, and lots of other goodies are in the D3.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16023176
> 
> 
> Maybe it's me; but, since I have installed ARC V2.0.1, I have noticed a pattern. What I have seen with every measurement is whatever the cross over for the center channel is the same for the subwoofer when the results are uploaded. For example, my fronts, surrounds, and rears cross over at 60Hz; but, my center and subwoofer cross over at 65Hz. This has occurred on every measurement that I have taken using ARC V2.0.1. BTW, I am running D2 1.33 with ARC V2.0.1. Has anyone else noticed this? I could just be me; but, I was just wondering.



This makes sense if you think about it.


With ARC V2.0.x Anthem added flexibility to separate the bass management crossovers from the room correction cutoffs. Separated from its role of controlling room correction you would then expect the sub crossover to be set close to the highest crossover needed by any of the other speakers. That way, the sub can fill in bass for the weakest speakers (the Center in your case). Meanwhile ARC can adjust the response from the better speakers to take into account the fact that the sub is working in a somewhat higher range.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16023160
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> How did you do that, taking the control over for this exceptional #20,000 post?



The trickiest part was convincing the folks in Sydney to let us set fire to their bridge...










--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16023755
> 
> 
> The trickiest part was convincing the folks in Sydney to let us set fire to their bridge...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Yep, right!


I know as well as anyone else that it was the Olympic games of Sydney in Australia.

Good try Bob!










Congratulations and Job well done all across the board.


_______

Bob


Note: Not only you are the best spokesman for Anthem, you also have a very good aspect of human behavior, a good sense of humor. Makes you a true gentleman of the Highest Order.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/16023730
> 
> 
> I'm with PaulF here. I am trying to justify the ~$2k cost of upgrading my D2 but its really hard, even with a 7 speaker system.
> 
> 
> DSD over HDMI would be great - no two ways about it.
> 
> 
> Ethernet would make our lives so much easier too. Firmware updates and ARC updates would be so much easier!
> 
> 
> It wouldn't shock me if both these things, and lots of other goodies are in the D3.



DSD over HDMI is pointless unless you are willing to forego all processing (including ARC). Otherwise you have to convert the DSD to LPCM in the Anthem since all processing is done in LPCM -- which means you might as well do that in the player to begin with and send HDMI LPCM to the Anthem just as we do today.


The whole point of HDMI DSD is to have it pass through directly -- unaltered -- to a DSD-capable DAC for analog output to the amps. There ARE pre-pros that will do that, but again, you don't get any value added processing on the digital audio while it is still in DSD.


Most pre-pros that accept HDMI DSD simply convert it to LPCM as the first step.


-------------------------------------------------


I agree that ethernet control, or at least USB, would be a big win over the current serial -- except that the home theater automation systems out there still tend towards serial even today. So you probably need both. I don't think Wi-Fi is all that important since it is easy and cheap to set up a Wi-Fi access point near the unit and then run ethernet to the unit. For example I do just that -- using an Apple Airport Express -- with my Oppo BDP-83 player. The problem with doing built-in Wi-Fi is that Wi-Fi is still changing. Ethernet is sufficiently stable that you don't have to worry about the networking hardware becoming outdated during the life of the product.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/16023034
> 
> 
> Anyone have a link to the manual download page for D2v and ARC (If they are seperate)? I have combed the site but can't seem to find them.



Download the ARC V2.0.1 install kit from Anthem's public download page for the D2:

http://statement.anthemav.com/html/P...e/Upgrade.html 


Unzip that download and you'll end up with a folder. Go into that folder and you will find PDF files of the Manuals, including the Manual for the new D2v.


The D2v Manual is dated Feb 4. There is a March 6 update to that Manual that will show up when Anthem makes the next version of ARC available -- likely ARC V2.0.3, and likely very soon now.


Section 3.15 of the Manual discusses ARC.


In addition, check out the ARC related post links collected in the first post of this thread. There are rather a lot of them, but most are short so it won't take that long.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16023039
> 
> 
> What's puzzling me is your comment that it used to work.
> 
> 
> I wouldn't expect your satellite box to flag 1080i output as 4:3 even when viewing SD channels..
> 
> 
> Is it possible your satellite provider just pushed new firmware into your satellite box?
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I suppose that might be possible. It's odd as it was one of the very first things I noticed when I got the new TV so I figured it had to be the TV doing it because we had to do it manually with the Panny. With the Pioneer, it was almost instantaneous. Even when we watched HD programming and a 4:3 commercial would appear, it would be 4:3 for a split second before stretching. Then last night, I came down to see my wife watching something in 4:3 and wondered why it had not stretched. This is when I started investigating. Not a thing was changed in the Anthem when I got the new TV except I am now using two Video Output configurations. (The second one was added for the blu-ray, so even that should not effect what has happened). Nor was anything changed in the satellite receiver. I thought I must have set something in the TV to disable it, but when I connect the satellite directly to the TV bypassing the Anthem, this feature works. This is why I suspected the issue was with the Anthem. So, I have no idea what setting has changed to make this feature no longer active, or, if like you say, my satellite provider changed something. Who knows, but it was a nice safety feature to have, especially during the break-in period for the Pioneer.


----------



## facke02

I have the Pioneer plasma as well and use the auto stretch feature. I have cable not satellite, but they should be about the same, junk...


Make sure the Pioneer is set to Auto, which it probably is.


Make sure your satellite box is stretching 4:3 content. You should be able to see what the latest FW is in the box if you can get to the secret menu.


Set the D2v to Anamorphic. You should be able to flip between the various options in that menu and see the change. That is if your sat box is stretching.


If it still doesn't work, turn the power off and on using the switch on the back of the D2v. I had to do this once.


I can't get the D2v to stretch 4:3 material from any HD channel, but the Pioneer does it just fine. The Pioneer is looking for content that is flagged as 4:3 and stretching it (I believe) because I've seen it stretch content that was already stretched like commercials.


Hopefully one of these things works...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16024212
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I suppose that might be possible. It's odd as it was one of the very first things I noticed when I got the new TV so I figured it had to be the TV doing it because we had to do it manually with the Panny. With the Pioneer, it was almost instantaneous. Even when we watched HD programming and a 4:3 commercial would appear, it would be 4:3 for a split second before stretching. Then last night, I came down to see my wife watching something in 4:3 and wondered why it had not stretched. This is when I started investigating. Not a thing was changed in the Anthem when I got the new TV except I am now using two Video Output configurations. (The second one was added for the blu-ray, so even that should not effect what has happened). Nor was anything changed in the satellite receiver. I thought I must have set something in the TV to disable it, but when I connect the satellite directly to the TV bypassing the Anthem, this feature works. This is why I suspected the issue was with the Anthem. So, I have no idea what setting has changed to make this feature no longer active, or, if like you say, my satellite provider changed something. Who knows, but it was a nice safety feature to have, especially during the break-in period for the Pioneer.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16024212
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I suppose that might be possible. It's odd as it was one of the very first things I noticed when I got the new TV so I figured it had to be the TV doing it because we had to do it manually with the Panny. With the Pioneer, it was almost instantaneous. Even when we watched HD programming and a 4:3 commercial would appear, it would be 4:3 for a split second before stretching. Then last night, I came down to see my wife watching something in 4:3 and wondered why it had not stretched. This is when I started investigating. Not a thing was changed in the Anthem when I got the new TV except I am now using two Video Output configurations. (The second one was added for the blu-ray, so even that should not effect what has happened). Nor was anything changed in the satellite receiver. I thought I must have set something in the TV to disable it, but when I connect the satellite directly to the TV bypassing the Anthem, this feature works. This is why I suspected the issue was with the Anthem. So, I have no idea what setting has changed to make this feature no longer active, or, if like you say, my satellite provider changed something. Who knows, but it was a nice safety feature to have, especially during the break-in period for the Pioneer.



I am still an old D1 user and therefore use an Anchor Bay (DVDO) VP50 for my video processing. On that I set the output to 1080P and my Pioneer 6020FD will auto stretch 4:3 content from my DirecTV box. I have the direcTV box set to auto resolution so the input to the VP50 changes dependent on what it is receiving, however the output from the VP50 is always 1080P and still the TV recognizes the black bars and stretches. I think there is something internal in the Pioneer software that recogniozes the black bars and eliminates them by stretching the 4:3 frame since I agree with Bob that when you set the output from a video processor (D2, D2V, VP50 or other) at 1080P it is exactly that always.


Bottom line is I would not count a setting on your TV out as being the reason.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16020663
> 
> 
> And the fireworks were even in HD....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Must be the anthem Making the awesome picture quality...



I agree with the Anthem Making Awesome PQ.


But I'm sure the HD is BOB himself - Mr. *H*ighly *D*etailed answers.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16023742
> 
> 
> This makes sense if you think about it.
> 
> 
> With ARC V2.0.x Anthem added flexibility to separate the bass management crossovers from the room correction cutoffs. Separated from its role of controlling room correction you would then expect the sub crossover to be set close to the highest crossover needed by any of the other speakers. That way, the sub can fill in bass for the weakest speakers (the Center in your case). Meanwhile ARC can adjust the response from the better speakers to take into account the fact that the sub is working in a somewhat higher range.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I completely agree, and it makes total sense to me. Well, I have downloaded ARC Beta V2.0.3. I am doing my measurements now. I will see how they turn out.


----------



## drmabuse

Thought I would post this just as an FYI in case it happens to anyone else.

I did a new set of measurements with ARC 2.0.3.3 last night and all went well including calcs and upload.

When I went in to save User settings afterwards my menu froze on the confirm save screen, the colour went to grey and it has remained frozen. I was able to exit back to regular mode but when I returned to the menu it was still frozen on the "confirm save" screen in grey.

I am going to re-install firmware tonite to see if that fixes the problem.

I notified [email protected]

For reference, I am using a D2.

Cheers!

/\\/\\


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16023803
> 
> 
> 
> I agree that ethernet control, or at least USB, would be a big win over the current serial -- except that the home theater automation systems out there still tend towards serial even today. So you probably need both. I don't think Wi-Fi is all that important since it is easy and cheap to set up a Wi-Fi access point near the unit and then run ethernet to the unit. For example I do just that -- using an Apple Airport Express -- with my Oppo BDP-83 player. The problem with doing built-in Wi-Fi is that Wi-Fi is still changing. Ethernet is sufficiently stable that you don't have to worry about the networking hardware becoming outdated during the life of the product.
> 
> --Bob



I agree with this pretty much except I'd much rather see ethernet than USB. Ethernet is so much more flexible, and opens up the possibility of a embedded web server for control like found in the Denon AVP and many other devices like routers, printers, etc.


Also about WiFi - aside from the ever changing WiFi standards power line transmission of ethernet in their homes is gaining popularity. It has some advantages over WiFi including being a lot more secure and at least potentially more reliable.


----------



## Warpdrv

Question about bass with ARC....


Currently I am running 4 sealed DIY subs (10kw







). I have an SMS-1 as an EQ, and would imagine that I will likely not be needing it for EQ purposes as it will be a lesser unit, and ARC will be far better at handling the bass response. but what I do need it for, is to add 3-6 db of boost to bring up and flatten out the natural roll off sealed subs generally have, much like what JL or other commercial units do on board. With boost and EQ I am easily flat down to 15hz in my 8200^3 room.


Am I right in thinking that ARC will not boost that lower end for me without the SMS ? So I will continue to need the SMS-1 - to get me flat down low right?


Thanks


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/16024887
> 
> 
> Thought I would post this just as an FYI in case it happens to anyone else.
> 
> I did a new set of measurements with ARC 2.0.3.3 last night and all went well including calcs and upload.
> 
> When I went in to save User settings afterwards my menu froze on the confirm save screen, the colour went to grey and it has remained frozen. I was able to exit back to regular mode but when I returned to the menu it was still frozen on the "confirm save" screen in grey.
> 
> I am going to re-install firmware tonite to see if that fixes the problem.
> 
> I notified [email protected]
> 
> For reference, I am using a D2.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> /\\/\\



I just finished my measurements and uploading everything without any problems for ARC Beta V2.0.3. However, I did notice that I had to back down my MAX Freq from 20KHz with a 3.5 Room Gain to 15KHz with a 2.0 Room Gain. The 20KHz with 3.5 Room Gain was causing some serious wobbles in my lower frequencies compared to ARC V2.0.1. Also, I noticed that ARC Beta V2.0.3 did not correct my RS as well as ARC V2.0.1 did. I am about to compose an e-mail with my ARC V2.0.1 Measurements and ARC Beta V2.0.3 Measurements to send to Anthem Tech Support (Nick).


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16023803
> 
> 
> DSD over HDMI is pointless unless you are willing to forego all processing (including ARC). Otherwise you have to convert the DSD to LPCM in the Anthem since all processing is done in LPCM -- which means you might as well do that in the player to begin with and send HDMI LPCM to the Anthem just as we do today.
> 
> 
> The whole point of HDMI DSD is to have it pass through directly -- unaltered -- to a DSD-capable DAC for analog output to the amps. There ARE pre-pros that will do that, but again, you don't get any value added processing on the digital audio while it is still in DSD.
> 
> 
> Most pre-pros that accept HDMI DSD simply convert it to LPCM as the first step.



I agree in principle...but it would be nice to compare the DSD to PCM conversion in the player vs. the Anthem. It is the same argument of Dolby and DTS decoding in the player vice the pre/pro it should be the same...but I pretty much convinced myself that the DSD to PCM of my Oppo 970 isn't as good as my PS3. Of course this may become a moot point if the BD-83 replaces both the 970 and PS3.











> Quote:
> I agree that ethernet control, or at least USB, would be a big win over the current serial -- except that the home theater automation systems out there still tend towards serial even today. So you probably need both. I don't think Wi-Fi is all that important since it is easy and cheap to set up a Wi-Fi access point near the unit and then run ethernet to the unit.



Yep I could see all three interfaces RS232, USB and Ethernet. I know not everyone agrees but I'd like to see DLNA streaming on the ethernet. I view DLNA streaming much like an FM tuner except it uses a digital stream instead of an RF antenna.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/16024887
> 
> 
> Thought I would post this just as an FYI in case it happens to anyone else.
> 
> I did a new set of measurements with ARC 2.0.3.3 last night and all went well including calcs and upload.
> 
> When I went in to save User settings afterwards my menu froze on the confirm save screen, the colour went to grey and it has remained frozen. I was able to exit back to regular mode but when I returned to the menu it was still frozen on the "confirm save" screen in grey.
> 
> I am going to re-install firmware tonite to see if that fixes the problem.
> 
> I notified [email protected]
> 
> For reference, I am using a D2.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> /\\/\\



The only thing I can think of is that your D2 believes you have set a password lock on changing the saved settings. See Section 3.14 of the Manual. But it shouldn't freeze up like this. Something is corrupted in your setup.


Let us know what happens and what you hear from Nick.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16025248
> 
> 
> Question about bass with ARC....
> 
> 
> Currently I am running 4 sealed DIY subs (10kw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I have an SMS-1 as an EQ, and would imagine that I will likely not be needing it for EQ purposes as it will be a lesser unit, and ARC will be far better at handling the bass response. but what I do need it for, is to add 3-6 db of boost to bring up and flatten out the natural roll off sealed subs generally have, much like what JL or other commercial units do on board. With boost and EQ I am easily flat down to 15hz in my 8200^3 room.
> 
> 
> Am I right in thinking that ARC will not boost that lower end for me without the SMS ? So I will continue to need the SMS-1 - to get me flat down low right?
> 
> 
> Thanks



ARC should be able to add a few dB boost down there unless it has to implement cuts near that region that carry over into that region.


The easiest thing to do is just try it both ways, and see which works better for you. If ARC does the job, I recommend you stop using the SMS-1.


If you decide to continue using the SMS-1 keep in mind that it needs to be in place and active when you do your ARC Measurements. I.e., you want to make sure ARC sees the output of your subs as modified by the SMS-1.


Also keep in mind that depending on where ARC implements the Room Gain hump in your setup you may see some roll-off just due to being below the Room Gain hump. This is normal and desirable. You don't WANT flat sub response through the Room Gain hump.


For any of the main speakers, find the flat part of the Target curve to the right of the Room Gain hump (which will be around the crossover frequency). The volume level of this flat part is what I've been calling the "basic volume level" of your setup as targeted by ARC.


Now look at the low end of your Calculated (i.e., corrected) sub response as determined by ARC. Don't focus on whether it is showing any roll-off at all. Instead focus on its absolute level compared to the basic volume level. Are you within a couple dB of the basic volume level at the low end (20Hz) of the chart? If so then you are good to go.


By the way, Nick tells me that even though the chart stops at 20Hz, ARC actually measures and corrects down to 5Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16025294
> 
> 
> I just finished my measurements and uploading everything without any problems for ARC Beta V2.0.3. However, I did notice that I had to back down my MAX Freq from 20KHz with a 3.5 Room Gain to 15KHz with a 2.0 Room Gain. The 20KHz with 3.5 Room Gain was causing some serious wobbles in my lower frequencies compared to ARC V2.0.1. Also, I noticed that ARC Beta V2.0.3 did not correct my RS as well as ARC V2.0.1 did. I am about to compose an e-mail with my ARC V2.0.1 Measurements and ARC Beta V2.0.3 Measurements to send to Anthem Tech Support (Nick).



This would make sense if ARC had to do significant corrections in the low bass -- remember we've seen additional extension into the subsonic bass in these newest ARC versions. That would use up ARC resources. Then when you raise Max EQ Frequency all the way up to 20KHz ARC has to divert those resources.


If you want to post your before and after charts here, we can take a look and see if something like that is happening.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" ARC V2.1 Now Up on Password Protected Download Page!*


A new "test" version of ARC, V2.1, has just appeared on Anthem's password protected download page. Change notes for the V2.x.x ARC releases (changes since ARC V1.2.5) now read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.1:
> 
> 
> 1. Improved gain matching for frequencies above max EQ frequency.
> 
> 
> 2. Improvement to calculation procedure to improve accuracy of filters and speed of calculation. If opening an older file, re-calculate and re-upload to obtain the improvements.
> 
> 
> 3. Repaired the "repair" option that appears in the software installation wizard.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.0.1:
> 
> 
> 1. Added ARC to D2v and AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> 2. Change to how sub crossover frequency is selected to address cases where the sub is a lot closer to the listener than the center channel, causing dialog to be heard from the sub if its crossover was set high enough.
> 
> 
> 3. More settings available for configurations not using a subwoofer. Note that while the front channels will be set to Large in the setup menu, ARC will still create a low frequency contour on the room correction target based on response at those frequencies. This cutoff frequency, displayed in the Targets panel, is separate from the bass manager's crossover.
> 
> 
> 4. The Targets panel also has options for setting the processor's bass manager to run channels at full range. These are best left unchecked, especially for surround channels since surround speakers are usually smaller.
> 
> 
> 5. Selecting Rears for measurement is not allowed if Surrounds are unselected. (In a 5.1 system use Surround channels, not Rears.)
> 
> 
> 6. Improved measurement at very low frequencies. Since this relates to frequencies below the lowest note on a bass guitar, it may not make a difference depending on existing in-room response.
> 
> 
> 7. Improved measurement at very high frequencies.
> 
> 
> If you have a file measured with ARC v1.2 to v1.2.5, remeasurement is not necessary. To convert the file format just open the file with the latest version of ARC, calculate, and upload. If you are uploading a file created for an AVM 40, AVM 50, D1, or D2 to an AVM 50v or D2v, ARC will ask for confirmation that you want to convert the file for use with the newer model.



Manuals remain at the March 6 versions. Utilities remain at the versions that came with the first ARC V2.0 release.


I think this is just final cleanup before they make this new ARC "official".

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

Thanks Bob.... I wasn't sure if ARC actually did bump/EQ upwards at all...


I will certainly work at trying both to see which yields the best result.


I like and have grown accustomed to having a volume control for my subs with the SMS, its just a button push away... add a couple of dbs here or there at will. Most receivers or pre-amps don't just control the sub when you use the bass/treble controls. I guess I like my bass a little hot at times, and that gives me the flexibility.


Oh and 1 more thing.... where is that delivery truck with my D2v


----------



## The Bogg

C'mon Anthem, hurry up with that official new version of ARC! Otherwise I'm gonna have to try out the test versions.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16026762
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.... I wasn't sure if ARC actually did bump/EQ upwards at all...
> 
> 
> I will certainly work at trying both to see which yields the best result.
> 
> 
> I like and have grown accustomed to having a volume control for my subs with the SMS, its just a button push away... add a couple of dbs here or there at will. Most receivers or pre-amps don't just control the sub when you use the bass/treble controls. I guess I like my bass a little hot at times, and that gives me the flexibility.



Check out Section 4.6 of the Anthem Manual. You can make temporary adjustments to total sub output (including any steered bass) or cuts to just the LFE portion of the sub output using the remote.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15991230
> 
> 
> Using the "test" D2v V2.03d firmware:
> 
> 
> "Hellboy II" Blu-Ray has a 7.1 DTS-HD MA track as its default audio track.
> 
> 
> If the Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player is set to HDMI LPCM output (decoding in the Oppo), the Select displays in the D2v show it is receiving 7.1 HDMI LPCM 48KHz audio as expected.
> 
> 
> But if the Oppo is set to HDMI Bitstream output (decoding in the D2v), the Select displays in the D2v show it is receiving only 5.1 HDMI DTS-HD MA 48KHz audio.
> 
> 
> Anthem and Oppo have both been alerted since it is not clear which product has the bug here. My guess is that the bug is in the D2v firmware. The HDMI Bitstreamed audio sounds fine to me, so the bug may be nothing more than a formatting error in that D2v Select display.
> 
> 
> This is a Universal title, so I don't think it has the "alternate speaker presentation" issue found with some older New Line titles.
> 
> --Bob



I've now seen this problem with "Hellboy II" Blu-Ray, "Hairspray" Blu-Ray, and "Pinocchio" Blu-Ray -- all when played as HDMI Bitstream from the Oppo BDP-83 into my D2v.


The problem is intermittent. It can be cured by switching the D2v to a different input and back to the Oppo.


It is still not clear whether this is an Oppo problem or a D2v problem (both Anthem and Oppo are on the case), but I'm leaning towards it being a D2v problem.


I've discovered an easier workaround when bitten by this. Simply Chapter Forward and immediately Chapter Back. When the audio resumes the D2v will properly show it is receiving 7.1 DTS-HD MA HDMI Bitstream 48KHz audio.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16026694
> 
> *New "Test" ARC V2.1 Now Up on Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> A new "test" version of ARC, V2.1, has just appeared on Anthem's password protected download page. Change notes for the V2.x.x ARC releases (changes since ARC V1.2.5) now read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Manuals remain at the March 6 versions. Utilities remain at the versions that came with the first ARC V2.0 release.
> 
> 
> I think this is just final cleanup before they make this new ARC "official".
> 
> --Bob



Where did you get the Change Notes from? I just downloaded "Test" ARC V2.1; but, I do not see any Change Notes.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16027211
> 
> 
> Where did you get the Change Notes from? I just downloaded "Test" ARC V2.1; but, I do not see any Change Notes.



They are part of the "Read Me" text file included with the install folder.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

re: line # 4 - surround speakers.

my surrounds have tweeters;mids; and a 8" 'woofer' in the enclosure.

should i still consider _not_ checking, per your recommendation?

my understanding is that there is not much surround bass encoding anyway, but, some of the newer releases seem to offer the occasional 'wow' factor.

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/16027741
> 
> 
> re: line # 4 - surround speakers.
> 
> my surrounds have tweeters;mids; and a 8" 'woofer' in the enclosure.
> 
> should i still consider _not_ checking, per your recommendation?
> 
> my understanding is that there is not much surround bass encoding anyway, but, some of the newer releases seem to offer the occasional 'wow' factor.
> 
> walt



The comment you are referring to comes from Anthem, not from me, but I agree with it.


My personal bias is to NOT use "full range" for any of the main speakers. Get a good sub, and let the sub handle the bass steered to it from the other speakers (along with LFE content).


Even if you don't have a sub, bass input in the surround channels for "small" surround speakers will be steered by the Anthem to your "full range" LF/RF speakers.


But if your surrounds are Measuring as capable of full range operation (see their bass response as shown in their red Measured curves), then of course it is easy to experiment with setting them to "full range" so you can see for yourself.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters

My dealer just called and said he thinks my AVM50v should be here next week. He said he'll know for sure tomorrow. I ordered around the last week of Feb I think.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16027982
> 
> 
> My dealer just called and said he thinks my AVM50v should be here next week. He said he'll know for sure tomorrow. I ordered around the last week of Feb I think.



That makes sense. The latest Backorder Report we've seen suggested that orders received by Anthem prior to March 2 were expected to ship from Anthem by March 10. Allowing for shipping and customs delays, the unit should arrive at your dealer any day now.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16024240
> 
> 
> I have the Pioneer plasma as well and use the auto stretch feature. I have cable not satellite, but they should be about the same, junk...
> 
> 
> Make sure the Pioneer is set to Auto, which it probably is.
> 
> 
> Make sure your satellite box is stretching 4:3 content. You should be able to see what the latest FW is in the box if you can get to the secret menu.
> 
> 
> Set the D2v to Anamorphic. You should be able to flip between the various options in that menu and see the change. That is if your sat box is stretching.
> 
> 
> If it still doesn't work, turn the power off and on using the switch on the back of the D2v. I had to do this once.
> 
> 
> I can't get the D2v to stretch 4:3 material from any HD channel, but the Pioneer does it just fine. The Pioneer is looking for content that is flagged as 4:3 and stretching it (I believe) because I've seen it stretch content that was already stretched like commercials.
> 
> 
> Hopefully one of these things works...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16024281
> 
> 
> I am still an old D1 user and therefore use an Anchor Bay (DVDO) VP50 for my video processing. On that I set the output to 1080P and my Pioneer 6020FD will auto stretch 4:3 content from my DirecTV box. I have the direcTV box set to auto resolution so the input to the VP50 changes dependent on what it is receiving, however the output from the VP50 is always 1080P and still the TV recognizes the black bars and stretches. I think there is something internal in the Pioneer software that recogniozes the black bars and eliminates them by stretching the 4:3 frame since I agree with Bob that when you set the output from a video processor (D2, D2V, VP50 or other) at 1080P it is exactly that always.
> 
> 
> Bottom line is I would not count a setting on your TV out as being the reason.



Thanks guys, but tried a few more things including your suggestions.


My SAT box is set to normal (displays what is coming into it). I have to manually tell it to select a wider or stretch format.


My Anthem is set to Anamorphic, however, when if I select a 4:3 program and select between the various "Scale out" selections, nothing changes on the display. My Anthem's Video Out configuration for the SAT is set to HDMI, 1920x1080p60, color space=auto, YCbCr=4:4:4, letterbox = black, sync=normal, component 2 out = processed.


My TV is set to "Auto size = wide-zoom" and "Detect masks = mode 1" and "HD wide mode = mode 1"


any clues given that info?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16028459
> 
> 
> Thanks guys, but tried a few more things including your suggestions.
> 
> 
> My SAT box is set to normal (displays what is coming into it). I have to manually tell it to select a wider or stretch format.
> 
> 
> My Anthem is set to Anamorphic, however, when if I select a 4:3 program and select between the various "Scale out" selections, nothing changes on the display. My Anthem's Video Out configuration for the SAT is set to HDMI, 1920x1080p60, color space=auto, YCbCr=4:4:4, letterbox = black, sync=normal, component 2 out = processed.
> 
> 
> My TV is set to "Auto size = wide-zoom" and "Detect masks = mode 1" and "HD wide mode = mode 1"
> 
> 
> any clues given that info?



Sure. The problem is the setting in your SAT box.


Set your SAT box to do uniform stretching of 4:3 content without cropping any of the edges of the content. Circles look like wide ovals and those wide ovals look identical regardless of where they are on the screen.


Although this looks like the SAT box is distorting the 4:3 content it is actually doing NOTHING to it.


The "normal" setting you are using now -- the one that the SAT box's manual describes as showing 4:3 content in the correct 4:3 aspect ratio -- is the one that's actually modifying the content by adding pillar box bars to it.


So set your SAT box to output 4:3 content in a manner that makes it fill the screen from left to right. If it offers more than one way to do this, pick the one that does uniform stretching without cropping any of the edges.


-------------------------------------------


Now in the Anthem, set Crop Input to Auto and set Scale Out to either Anamorphic or to Letter/Pillar Box. Anamorphic, when used with the SAT box set this way, will leave the input unaltered. HDTV content will be 16:9 with nothing lost and SDTV content will be stretched to fill the screen from left to right.


Letter/Pillar Box will also leave HDTV content unaltered but will add pillar box bars to 4:3 content so that it shows in the original 4:3 aspect ratio.


This will work for everything except cases where an HDTV channel is broadcasting an SD program. The problem there is that the station has already added pillar boxes padding that 4:3 SD program out to the 16:9 HDTV shape before it ever gets to your SAT box. In that case the only thing you can do is to switch the Anthem's Crop Input setting from Auto to 4:3 temporarily. Once again, Anamorphic scaling will cause that 4:3 cropped input to be stretched horizontally to fill your 16:9 output.


--------------------------------------------------------------


Technical Note: The SD programs have 720 pixels across each line regardless of whether they are wide screen or 4:3. How is this possible? Because the pixels for SD are not square and they are not uniform width.


When you tell the SAT box to output a wide image for 4:3 content, it is sending out the 720 pixels of input as is -- unmodified. The Anamorphic setting in the Anthem interprets those pixels as wider than they are tall and thus the 720 pixels fill your 16:9 screen from left to right. Meanwhile, your SAT box will be flagging the video stream as actually being 4:3 content, meaning the correct interpretation of those pixels is that they are taller than they are wide! When you set the Anthem to Letter/Pillar Box it picks up on that flag and makes the pixels match the right shape by adding pillar box bars on either side of them to pad the 4:3 content to the 16:9 screen shape.


The way you have your SAT box set now, it is already adding the pillar box bars. I.e, it is modifying the video to use some of the 720 pixels as pillar box bars and have the real imaging content squeeze into what's left in the middle. If you have your SAT box send out 480i or 480p for those, that will actually result in a noticeable loss of horizontal resolution. If your SAT box is set to send out 720p or higher for those then, if it does its job right, the pillar box bars are added in high resolution pixels (after scaling) and thus you don't lose horizontal resolution as there are still enough pixels left in the middle of each line to hold the original info content.


But the Anthem has no way of knowing that some of the pixels being sent to it by the SAT box are not real -- that they are pillar box bars and not program content. Even if the SAT box flags it as 4:3 content, the Anthem sees the input video as a 16:9 shape so it doesn't do anything. You can force the Anthem to extract the 4:3 image from the middle of that pillar boxed video by changing Crop Input to 4:3. Then Anamorphic scaling will present it without adding new pillar box bars -- and thus the image appears stretched to fill your screen.


But the best answer by far is to keep the SAT box from generating those pillar box bars in the first place.


------------------------------------------------------


See the Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling post links collected in the first post of this thread for more examples of how this stuff works.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

Did anyone else hear about Anthem stop shipment on D2v-s. supposely shipping out only mid April???


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16028624
> 
> 
> Did anyone else hear about Anthem stop shipment on D2v-s. supposely shipping out only mid April???



Not that we've heard. They are backordered, but still shipping -- with only the common, short term delays that happen from time to time as they have to wait for one component or another to arrive.


With any luck, we'll see a new Backorder Report soon which should help clarify the status. The last one we've seen was dated March 2 and showed a March 10 date for all versions of the D2v and AVM 50v.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

I was a little confused when I got the call this afternoon from Anthem Dealer. He got an email stating D2v were being stopped until Anthem corrects bugs???


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16028759
> 
> 
> I was a little confused when I got the call this afternoon from Anthem Dealer. He got an email stating D2v were being stopped until Anthem corrects bugs???



News to me.


Anthem has made quite a few bug fixes in "test" software versions that are newer than the "official" version which has been factory installed up to now. These newer versions are available to owners via Anthem tech support. You can install the new software yourself using a Windows PC with a serial port. So it's really no big deal if you get a unit that left the factory with the older firmware installed.


It is possible Anthem has decided to re-open the boxes and install newer software in units before they ship out, but I've not heard anything like that so far.

--Bob


----------



## flavorguy

I think I understand this, but I just want to make absolutely sure...


If I download any of the new ARC releases (version 2.01 or greater), and if I haven't made any changes to my speaker location or other room adjustments, there really isn't any need to go through the whole 5 location remeasuring with the microphone...


I will just download the new ARC software version, run "Calculate", and a new set of values will be plotted... I then press "upload" and these new calculations will now be fed into my AVM50v ...


Do I have this procedure right?


When members suggest running different frequency runs - 5,000 vs 20,000 - is this just changing the values in the frequency response field, and running a calculation, or do I change this in the drop down menu and rerun my measurements with the microphone...


I really have never been clear on either of these issues and the manual is not providing me a simple explanation... or I'm an absolute dope (which is not entirely out of the question)


----------



## zuesmaximus

that's what I thought


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/16028869
> 
> 
> I think I understand this, but I just want to make absolutely sure...
> 
> 
> If I download any of the new ARC releases (version 2.01 or greater), and if I haven't made any changes to my speaker location or other room adjustments, there really isn't any need to go through the whole 5 location remeasuring with the microphone...
> 
> 
> I will just download the new ARC software version, run "Calculate", and a new set of values will be plotted... I then press "upload" and these new calculations will now be fed into my AVM50v ...
> 
> 
> Do I have this procedure right?
> 
> 
> When members suggest running different frequency runs - 5,000 vs 20,000 - is this just changing the values in the frequency response field, and running a calculation, or do I change this in the drop down menu and rerun my measurements with the microphone...
> 
> 
> I really have never been clear on either of these issues and the manual is not providing me a simple explanation... or I'm an absolute dope (which is not entirely out of the question)



You have to read the Read Me text file that comes with each new ARC release to see what is recommended as regards use of old Measurement files.


The release notes for the current "official" ARC V2.0.1 and the current "test" ARC V2.1 (likely to become "official" any moment now), both state that you can use Measurements you made with ARC V1.2.5 or later.


To do that I suggest you do the following. First make sure you have your current Anthem settings saved in Saved User and/or Installer Settings. Then:


1) Install the new version of ARC


2) Make a copy of your prior ARC results file so you don't lose it.


3) Run the new version of ARC in Advanced mode.


4) Open the copy you just made of your prior ARC results file


5) Go to the Targets window


6) Do an Auto Detect. This will cause the new ARC to re-evaluate your older Measurements and to choose new Target values according to what it thinks best.


7) Make any adjustments you wish to make in the Target values now displayed. For example, this is when you can raise the Max EQ Frequency value to tell ARC it is OK to apply correction above the default limit of 5KHz.


8) Accept the current settings in the Targets window. This will also dismiss the Targets window.


9) Do a Calculation.


10) If you like the way the Calculated curves now look, do an Upload.


After the Upload completes, go into the Setup menu in your Anthem and verify that things look correct -- and in particular that you have not been bitten by the rare bug that causes Setup menu settings to reset to Factory Defaults. If all looks good, Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the changes ARC has just Uploaded to your Setup menu.


[NOTE: If you discover that your Setup menu settings are wrong (it will usually be obvious -- e.g., loss of video output) don't panic. There is an easy fix. First power cycle the Anthem using the back panel switch to get things into a fresh state. Then Reload Saved User Settings to restore your prior settings -- using the Front Panel display if you have lost video. Then use ARC as described above to do a new Upload based on a re-Calculation of your older Measurements file. Then check your Setup menu and if all is finally good, now Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the new Upload. We've had no reports of the Upload failing a second time so you should be in good shape this time.]


-----------------------------------------------------------------


All that said, my personal practice is to do a complete new set of Measurements at least for each new "official" version of ARC and also for each new "official" version of the firmware. That way I know I've got the latest of everything and I don't have to trust to my memory down the road as to whether my current ARC Upload included any older stuff.


I recommend you run ARC in Advanced mode when doing a new setup. That way you can control when Calculations and Uploads happen separately from when Measurements happen. In particular, this gives you the opportunity to go into the Targets window and make the adjustment to Max EQ Frequency between doing the Measurements pass and doing the Calculation based on those Measurements.


Try Advanced mode. You'll like it. It is every bit as easy as using the automatic (simple) mode.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16028759
> 
> 
> I was a little confused when I got the call this afternoon from Anthem Dealer. He got an email stating D2v were being stopped until Anthem corrects bugs???



I went to my dealer today. He told me that he had to contact customers, that has put down a deposit for the D2V at least a month ago, to tell them that it will be at least another month before the D2V will be in. He didn't have any idea on how much the upgrade will be since Anthem is still focusing on the D2V.


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16028624
> 
> 
> Did anyone else hear about Anthem stop shipment on D2v-s. supposely shipping out only mid April???



Hey! Now now now! No bad news like this allowed. At least if you have news like this word it in confusing text as to make it sound like good news










Suppose to hear from my dealer tomorrow, will let ya know if I get the same word.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16029031
> 
> 
> I went to my dealer today. He told me that he had to contact customers, that has put down a deposit for the D2V at least a month ago, to tell them that it will be at least another month before the D2V will be in. He didn't have any idea on how much the upgrade will be since Anthem is still focusing on the D2V.



If true this is a bit fascinating since Anthem just went through the trouble last week to put out a press release touting the fact that the D2v is shipping!


The bugs in the original V2.00 firmware were quite serious, but the current V2.03d "test" firmware seems to be in pretty good shape. And most folks were getting the V2.02 firmware factory installed which was not that bad.


Anyway, we'll just have to see how this plays out. If they are waiting on a new "official" release of firmware, it shouldn't take all that long.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16028620
> 
> 
> Sure. The problem is the setting in your SAT box.
> 
> 
> Set your SAT box to do uniform stretching of 4:3 content without cropping any of the edges of the content. Circles look like wide ovals and those wide ovals look identical regardless of where they are on the screen.
> 
> 
> Although this looks like the SAT box is distorting the 4:3 content it is actually doing NOTHING to it.
> 
> 
> The "normal" setting you are using now -- the one that the SAT box's manual describes as showing 4:3 content in the correct 4:3 aspect ratio -- is the one that's actually modifying the content by adding pillar box bars to it.
> 
> 
> So set your SAT box to output 4:3 content in a manner that makes it fill the screen from left to right. If it offers more than one way to do this, pick the one that does uniform stretching without cropping any of the edges.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now in the Anthem, set Crop Input to Auto and set Scale Out to either Anamorphic or to Letter/Pillar Box. Anamorphic, when used with the SAT box set this way, will leave the input unaltered. HDTV content will be 16:9 with nothing lost and SDTV content will be stretched to fill the screen from left to right.
> 
> 
> Letter/Pillar Box will also leave HDTV content unaltered but will add pillar box bars to 4:3 content so that it shows in the original 4:3 aspect ratio.
> 
> 
> This will work for everything except cases where an HDTV channel is broadcasting an SD program. The problem there is that the station has already added pillar boxes padding that 4:3 SD program out to the 16:9 HDTV shape before it ever gets to your SAT box. In that case the only thing you can do is to switch the Anthem's Crop Input setting from Auto to 4:3 temporarily. Once again, Anamorphic scaling will cause that 4:3 cropped input to be stretched horizontally to fill your 16:9 output.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Technical Note: The SD programs have 720 pixels across each line regardless of whether they are wide screen or 4:3. How is this possible? Because the pixels for SD are not square and they are not uniform width.
> 
> 
> When you tell the SAT box to output a wide image for 4:3 content, it is sending out the 720 pixels of input as is -- unmodified. The Anamorphic setting in the Anthem interprets those pixels as wider than they are tall and thus the 720 pixels fill your 16:9 screen from left to right. Meanwhile, your SAT box will be flagging the video stream as actually being 4:3 content, meaning the correct interpretation of those pixels is that they are taller than they are wide! When you set the Anthem to Letter/Pillar Box it picks up on that flag and makes the pixels match the right shape by adding pillar box bars on either side of them to pad the 4:3 content to the 16:9 screen shape.
> 
> 
> The way you have your SAT box set now, it is already adding the pillar box bars. I.e, it is modifying the video to use some of the 720 pixels as pillar box bars and have the real imaging content squeeze into what's left in the middle. If you have your SAT box send out 480i or 480p for those, that will actually result in a noticeable loss of horizontal resolution. If your SAT box is set to send out 720p or higher for those then, if it does its job right, the pillar box bars are added in high resolution pixels (after scaling) and thus you don't lose horizontal resolution as there are still enough pixels left in the middle of each line to hold the original info content.
> 
> 
> But the Anthem has no way of knowing that some of the pixels being sent to it by the SAT box are not real -- that they are pillar box bars and not program content. Even if the SAT box flags it as 4:3 content, the Anthem sees the input video as a 16:9 shape so it doesn't do anything. You can force the Anthem to extract the 4:3 image from the middle of that pillar boxed video by changing Crop Input to 4:3. Then Anamorphic scaling will present it without adding new pillar box bars -- and thus the image appears stretched to fill your screen.
> 
> 
> But the best answer by far is to keep the SAT box from generating those pillar box bars in the first place.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> See the Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling post links collected in the first post of this thread for more examples of how this stuff works.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


My SAT receiver has a choice of three settings as described from the manual below:


4x3#1 is the setting to use on a 4x3 tv which uses vertical compression. When fed with a 16x9 program, a compatible tv automatically makes the picture letterbox format (black bars top and bottom), to preserve the correct horizontal and vertical proportions.


4x3#2 is the setting to use on a 4x3 tv which does not have internal vertical compression. When fed with a 16x9 program, such a tv will not show black bars at the top and bottom, and the picture will appear tall and skinny.


16x9 is the setting for wide screen HDTV displays.


Now, I have always had the SAT receiver set to the 16x9 setting for obvious reasons.


So, in trying your suggestion, I first tried the 4x3#1. On 16x9 HD programming, I tried switching between panoramic, anamorphic and letter/pillar box settings in the Anthem. No changes occurred. I then swithed to a SD 4x3 program and tried the same procedure. Again, no changes were noted.


So, then I switched the SAT to 4x3#2. This stretched my HD 16x9 programming, adding black bars to the top and bottom of the display. When I switched between the Anthems scaling options, no change was noted. I tried the same on 4x3 SD programming and picture fills the screen, but no change was noted in changing between the Anthems scaling options.


I don't see any other options within the SAT receiver to make any other adjustments this way.


I don't know if this offers any additional insight.


----------



## zuesmaximus

please let me know, I want to take the plunge but several dealers are telling me different stories on the eta


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16029071
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> My SAT receiver has a choice of three settings as described from the manual below:
> 
> 
> 4x3#1 is the setting to use on a 4x3 tv which uses vertical compression. When fed with a 16x9 program, a compatible tv automatically makes the picture letterbox format (black bars top and bottom), to preserve the correct horizontal and vertical proportions.
> 
> 
> 4x3#2 is the setting to use on a 4x3 tv which does not have internal vertical compression. When fed with a 16x9 program, such a tv will not show black bars at the top and bottom, and the picture will appear tall and skinny.
> 
> 
> 16x9 is the setting for wide screen HDTV displays.
> 
> 
> Now, I have always had the SAT receiver set to the 16x9 setting for obvious reasons.
> 
> 
> So, in trying your suggestion, I first tried the 4x3#1. On 16x9 HD programming, I tried switching between panoramic, anamorphic and letter/pillar box settings in the Anthem. No changes occurred. I then swithed to a SD 4x3 program and tried the same procedure. Again, no changes were noted.
> 
> 
> So, then I switched the SAT to 4x3#2. This stretched my HD 16x9 programming, adding black bars to the top and bottom of the display. When I switched between the Anthems scaling options, no change was noted. I tried the same on 4x3 SD programming and picture fills the screen, but no change was noted in changing between the Anthems scaling options.
> 
> 
> I don't see any other options within the SAT receiver to make any other adjustments this way.
> 
> 
> I don't know if this offers any additional insight.



Well none of those are what you want. You want the 16:9 option but in a way that does not add pillar box bars to 4:3 content. I thought you had found a setting in the SAT box that offered "horizontally stretched" output of 4:3 content. That's what you want.


If it doesn't offer that, then I don't think you are going to be able to set things up in the Anthem (or your TV connected through the Anthem) to stretch 4:3 programs automatically.

--Bob


----------



## Korey

Hey Bob, what's your take on on this?

http://www.dolby.com/consumer/techno...logic-IIz.html


----------



## jayray

I just watched Dune which I hadn't seen since my AVM50 with ARC days. The sound was amazingly better than I remembered. Some of this was the diff version of ARC but it occured to me a lot of this was due to the D2v. It blew me away how much better it sounded.The detail was stunning and LFE was noticeably better. I know this is not the best soundmix, but if it can make this sound that much better, anything from SD should also improve. I find going back to some older movies really emphasizes the improvement I am now hearing.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Korey* /forum/post/16029159
> 
> 
> Hey Bob, what's your take on on this?
> 
> http://www.dolby.com/consumer/techno...logic-IIz.html



It's a gimmick.


Not interested.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16029134
> 
> 
> Well none of those are what you want. You want the 16:9 option but in a way that does not add pillar box bars to 4:3 content. I thought you had found a setting in the SAT box that offered "horizontally stretched" output of 4:3 content. That's what you want.
> 
> 
> If it doesn't offer that, then I don't think you are going to be able to set things up in the Anthem (or your TV connected through the Anthem) to stretch 4:3 programs automatically.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks anyway for your help. If it never worked, I don't think it would be that much of an issue for me, but the fact that it was working and now, for some reason, is not, is driving me nuts.


----------



## jclem

So, Arc 2.1 took the place of Arc 2.03?? and the latest FW is 2.03d?? Things are changing so fast and the numbers are so close to each other, that I'm getting confused.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/16029270
> 
> 
> So, Arc 2.1 took the place of Arc 2.03?? and the latest FW is 2.03d?? Things are changing so fast and the numbers are so close to each other, that I'm getting confused.



At least the numbers are short. I've dealt with products where the firmware version numbers were 8 digits long -- with the interesting changes happening in the numbers in the middle!

--Bob


----------



## jclem

Hey Ninja12, could you post your graphs so I could get an idea what "wobbles" look like? Bob told me a while ago to watch out for them if I set the Max EQ too high. I'd just like to get an idea of what to look out for, and how much is too much. Thanks


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16029291
> 
> 
> At least the numbers are short. I've dealt with products where the firmware version numbers were 8 digits long -- with the interesting changes happening in the numbers in the middle!
> 
> --Bob



Yikes!! If it comes to that, I'll give up and go fishing........


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16025800
> 
> 
> The only thing I can think of is that your D2 believes you have set a password lock on changing the saved settings. See Section 3.14 of the Manual. But it shouldn't freeze up like this. Something is corrupted in your setup.
> 
> 
> Let us know what happens and what you hear from Nick.
> 
> --Bob



Flash erased - reloaded 1.33 - reloaded saved settings - ARC 2.1

It's all good...

/\\/\\


----------



## drhankz

I downloaded 2.1 today and I ran the Measurements

from Scratch even though I did not have to.


I would say I'm glad I did. There is a MARKED difference.


When using version 2.1 today I would say 33% of the time

the MEASUREMENT on a position or speaker would FAIL.


I can't count how many times I had to make it retry the

speaker/location to get it to work.


There was one time ARC 2.1 turned the output of the

Left Rear Speaker so low - I barley could hear it. After

Retrying 5-6 times - it turned up the volume and completed

that speaker for that position.


OVERALL - 2.1 Measurement ability seems to be very flaky.

I never had this problem with 2011.


The results were flaky enough that I did not upload the results.

I printed out the Graphs and they are close but different. I think

I like the 2011 results better.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/16029596
> 
> 
> Flash erased - reloaded 1.33 - reloaded saved settings - ARC 2.1
> 
> It's all good...
> 
> /\\/\\



This must have been a weird variant of the bug where an ARC Upload damages the Setup menu settings.


Did you do your first try using the simple ARC mode (where it automatically does the Calculation and Upload right after Measurement)? Or were you running ARC in Advanced mode?

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16029647
> 
> 
> This must have been a weird variant of the bug where an ARC Upload damages the Setup menu settings.
> 
> 
> Did you do your first try using the simple ARC mode (where it automatically does the Calculation and Upload right after Measurement)? Or were you running ARC in Advanced mode?
> 
> --Bob



Always in advanced mode.

/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16029612
> 
> 
> I downloaded 2.1 today and I ran the Measurements
> 
> from Scratch even though I did not have to.
> 
> 
> I would say I'm glad I did. There is a MARKED difference.
> 
> 
> When using version 2.1 today I would say 33% of the time
> 
> the MEASUREMENT on a position or speaker would FAIL.
> 
> 
> I can't count how many times I had to make it retry the
> 
> speaker/location to get it to work.
> 
> 
> There was one time ARC 2.1 turned the output of the
> 
> Left Rear Speaker so low - I barley could hear it. After
> 
> Retrying 5-6 times - it turned up the volume and completed
> 
> that speaker for that position.
> 
> 
> OVERALL - 2.1 Measurement ability seems to be very flaky.
> 
> I never had this problem with 2011.
> 
> 
> The results were flaky enough that I did not upload the results.
> 
> I printed out the Graphs and they are close but different. I think
> 
> I like the 2011 results better.



Very strange indeed. Please get the details to Nick.


If I had to guess, I'd say ARC didn't properly configure your Anthem for the Measurement pass before beginning the test tones. JAYRAY had a case with ARC V2.0.1.1 (as I recall) where a Measurement pass evidently was done with the prior ARC configuration still active -- i.e., ARC was hearing "corrected" output from the speakers instead of raw output. Of course ARC is supposed to turn that stuff off before beginning the Measurement test tones.


Question: When setting up to do this Measurement pass, did you just leave the stuff in Setup > Level Calibration the way it was from your prior setup or did you do anything to the settings in there prior to starting the ARC Measurements?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/16029690
> 
> 
> Always in advanced mode.
> 
> /\\/\\



Deep sigh. At first it appeared that this problem could only affect folks using the simple mode, but all of the recent reports of issues after an Upload seem to be from folks using Advanced mode.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16029703
> 
> 
> Deep sigh. At first it appeared that this problem could only affect folks using the simple mode, but all of the recent reports of issues after an Upload seem to be from folks using Advanced mode.
> 
> --Bob



Nick and I have been emailing back and forth and it may have something to do with powering off - might not be connected to ARC at all...possible coincidence.

Either way, been an Anthem guy here for years (AVM2/AVM20/D2) and this kinda stuff does not freak me out like it used to! Can alway count on Anthem support to get you back in action!

/\\/\\


----------



## neff2k

Off topic, but why hasn't this thread become a sticky? I would think with over 865k views and 20k posts it would definitely qualify!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/16030383
> 
> 
> Off topic, but why hasn't this thread become a sticky? I would think with over 865k views and 20k posts it would definitely qualify!



We've talked about it several times over the past 3 years. I suspect if we asked, the mods would agree to sticky it.


But personally I think it is better that it not be a sticky.


Sticky threads draw a lot of extraneous posts. Not to mention thread envy from owners of other equipment. Think about some of the comments that have been made here regarding the Denon sticky thread.


It's not like anyone who needs to find it is having trouble finding this thread.










--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Has anyone heard when the next firmware upgrade will be for the AVM50? I'm still experiencing the humming issue that I have had for almost a year now. Nick has informed me that their priority is the D2v/AVM50v models, so I wonder if they will ever get around to a fix for this? I can't sell this the way it is, and it is very very annoying the way it is.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/16030383
> 
> 
> Off topic, but why hasn't this thread become a sticky? I would think with over 865k views and 20k posts it would definitely qualify!



20,000 posts and probably 5% of those are people asking why this thread isn't a sticky!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16030482
> 
> 
> Has anyone heard when the next firmware upgrade will be for the AVM50? I'm still experiencing the humming issue that I have had for almost a year now. Nick has informed me that their priority is the D2v/AVM50v models, so I wonder if they will ever get around to a fix for this? I can't sell this the way it is, and it is very very annoying the way it is.



Nothing new since the report from Nick 2 weeks ago that a V1.34 release is in the works. I don't know if it will fix this particular issue.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16030578
> 
> 
> Nothing new since the report from Nick 2 weeks ago that a V1.34 release is in the works. I don't know if it will fix this particular issue.
> 
> --Bob



I will e-mail nick.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16029693
> 
> 
> Very strange indeed. Please get the details to Nick.
> 
> 
> If I had to guess, I'd say ARC didn't properly configure your Anthem for the Measurement pass before beginning the test tones. JAYRAY had a case with ARC V2.0.1.1 (as I recall) where a Measurement pass evidently was done with the prior ARC configuration still active -- i.e., ARC was hearing "corrected" output from the speakers instead of raw output. Of course ARC is supposed to turn that stuff off before beginning the Measurement test tones.
> 
> 
> Question: When setting up to do this Measurement pass, did you just leave the stuff in Setup > Level Calibration the way it was from your prior setup or did you do anything to the settings in there prior to starting the ARC Measurements?
> 
> --Bob



I'll send info to Nick in the Morning - I didn't have time tonight.


I did nothing except fire up ARC - so it is in whatever state it was after

I uploaded the last ARC 2011 configuration.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16029134
> 
> 
> Well none of those are what you want. You want the 16:9 option but in a way that does not add pillar box bars to 4:3 content. I thought you had found a setting in the SAT box that offered "horizontally stretched" output of 4:3 content. That's what you want.
> 
> 
> If it doesn't offer that, then I don't think you are going to be able to set things up in the Anthem (or your TV connected through the Anthem) to stretch 4:3 programs automatically.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


One thing I could do is send the HDMI directly from my SAT to the TV and only send the SAT's audio to the Anthem. I realize my video would not be processed by the Anthem, but do you think there would be a noticeable difference in video quality by essentially bypassing it?


----------



## PaulF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16023022
> 
> 
> Paul, understand that this thread isn't run by Anthem, so it is not guaranteed they will spot your comments if you only post them here.
> 
> --Bob



Well Bob, I emailed Anthem today and Nick responded. I appreciate him responding but his answers were not positive, at least not for me.


The D2v DACs do not support DSD and Nick thinks it's a marketing gimmick anyway. He also confirmed the current platform cannot be upgraded with Ethernet.


I really like the D2v but just can't bring myself to buy an expensive piece of gear like this that does not support Ethernet. With almost every new moderately priced pre/pro or receiver sporting an Ethernet port these days (often with added DLNA functionality), I think Anthem is a little behind on this one.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/16031042
> 
> 
> I really like the D2v but just can't bring myself to buy an expensive piece of gear like this that does not support Ethernet. With almost every new moderately priced pre/pro or receiver sporting an Ethernet port these days (often with added DLNA functionality), I think Anthem is a little behind on this one.



I agree - I wish that I didn't, but I do!


----------



## obie_fl

I personally wouldn't mind DSD but I agree with Nick it is pretty much just a gimmick since most of those that do support it convert it to PCM anyway. I wouldn't mind ethernet in the current platform either. I'm not quite sure why you would expect either in the current platform though. I believe the present platform has gone about as far as it can go... there have been rumors that a next generation model may be in development. My dilemma is whether to go from the D2 to D2v upgrade or wait for a "D3".


If you want laundry list of features go for one of the big Japanese CE products. If you want a killer audio and video product with unmatched support go with Anthem.


----------



## PaulF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16031202
> 
> 
> I wouldn't mind ethernet in the current platform either. I'm not quite sure why you would expect either in the current platform though. I believe the present platform has gone about as far as it can go... there have been rumors that a next generation model may be in development. My dilemma is whether to go from the D2 to D2v upgrade or wait for a "D3".



According to Nick "Ethernet is in the distant future on a platform that is still in the gleam in the eye phase."


I was hoping the control I/O section could be upgraded, perhaps with an option to replace the serial port for which I have no need.


----------



## Warpdrv

Exactly the reason I wanted the D2v....


I don't need nor do I want all those gimmicky 1/2 @$$ed features that never pan out to be anything worth while, and never get used....


I truly appreciate the cleanliness and streamlined nature of the Anthem platform... There are tons and tons of products out there that offer features that offer the ability to stream music and movies over the network.


Sorry but if that is what you are looking for - the AVP offers up all those features but IMO really falls short of any and all of those implementations... why even bother. Heck - my modded original Xbox excels in that implementation with a GUI far better then anything out there could possibly measure up to...


Pick you battles....


Kudos to Anthem for keeping it clean and staying focused on whats truly important.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/16031042
> 
> 
> Well Bob, I emailed Anthem today and Nick responded. I appreciate him responding but his answers were not positive, at least not for me.
> 
> 
> The D2v DACs do not support DSD and Nick thinks it's a marketing gimmick anyway. He also confirmed the current platform cannot be upgraded with Ethernet.
> 
> 
> I really like the D2v but just can't bring myself to buy an expensive piece of gear like this that does not support Ethernet. With almost every new moderately priced pre/pro or receiver sporting an Ethernet port these days (often with added DLNA functionality), I think Anthem is a little behind on this one.



The Anthem units aren't for everybody. All you can do is make your concerns known (as you've done) and move on -- digging into other products in the same fashion.


If in the end you find other products aren't filling your needs in perhaps even more important ways -- needs that the Anthems CAN satisfy -- we'll be happy to see you back here!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16030862
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> One thing I could do is send the HDMI directly from my SAT to the TV and only send the SAT's audio to the Anthem. I realize my video would not be processed by the Anthem, but do you think there would be a noticeable difference in video quality by essentially bypassing it?



It's hard to say. It depends on how damaged your satellite video is before it ever reaches your box.


Now you've got the SAT box set to de-interlace and upscale SD channels, and the Anthem will almost certainly do a better job of that if you change the SAT box to output 480i for those. But since you have the SAT box sending out 1080i for everything now the Anthem can't do that anyway, so the difference when you plug directly into the TV might not be that noticeable.


By the way, have you tried Component video from the SAT box to see if that flags the 4:3 content differently?


------------------------------------------------


Of course you are not going to be in the break in period for your display for long. After that you really should consider viewing 4:3 content with pillar box bars rather than stretched anyway.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16031542
> 
> 
> Exactly the reason I wanted the D2v....
> 
> 
> I don't need nor do I want all those gimmicky 1/2 @$$ed features that never pan out to be anything worth while, and never get used....
> 
> 
> I truly appreciate the cleanliness and streamlined nature of the Anthem platform... There are tons and tons of products out there that offer features that offer the ability to stream music and movies over the network.
> 
> 
> Sorry but if that is what you are looking for - the AVP offers up all those features but IMO really falls short of any and all of those implementations... why even bother. Heck - my modded original Xbox excels in that implementation with a GUI far better then anything out there could possibly measure up to...
> 
> 
> Pick you battles....
> 
> 
> Kudos to Anthem for keeping it clean and staying focused on whats truly important.



Just to be clear, I couldn't care less about the ability to stream audio/video directly from the Anthem or any other gimmick. As a matter of fact I much prefer to buy a $200 device that I don't feel bad about throwing away when something better comes out. Really the only reason I would like ethernet is to replace the serial connection for uploads for firmware and ARC. Maybe it sounds illogical but I just don't like the serial connection very much (how many posts in this thread discuss problems with this?).


Anyway, this is really my only complaint. The D2 is hands-down the best piece of equipment that I have ever bought and I think that Anthem is a fabulous company.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16031847
> 
> 
> It's hard to say. It depends on how damaged your satellite video is before it ever reaches your box.
> 
> 
> Now you've got the SAT box set to de-interlace and upscale SD channels, and the Anthem will almost certainly do a better job of that if you change the SAT box to output 480i for those. But since you have the SAT box sending out 1080i for everything now the Anthem can't do that anyway, so the difference when you plug directly into the TV might not be that noticeable.
> 
> 
> By the way, have you tried Component video from the SAT box to see if that flags the 4:3 content differently?
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Of course you are not going to be in the break in period for your display for long. After that you really should consider viewing 4:3 content with pillar box bars rather than stretched anyway.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


You bring up another point. I have always had my SAT box set to 1080i for everything. I forget what my choices are, but I think it is 480i or p, 720p and 1080i. I wish it changed automatically, depending on what the native resolution of the broadcast is, but it doesn't so I'm stuck with selecting one of them. I have always had it on 1080i, because I watch mostly HD content and in researching the subject, I believe the majority of HD channels are being broadcast in 1080i. Therefore, my thoughts were if I'm watching a program in 1080i, the SAT receiver is not doing any processing of the signal and the Anthem would scale it to 1080p. I realize if I'm watching something that is being broadcast in anything other than 1080i, then the SAT box is processing the signal and then the Anthem is again.


Would you recommend I have it set up any other way?


I have not tried component yet. Perhaps, I will give that a try this weekend.


Thanks,


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16030862
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> One thing I could do is send the HDMI directly from my SAT to the TV and only send the SAT's audio to the Anthem. I realize my video would not be processed by the Anthem, but do you think there would be a noticeable difference in video quality by essentially bypassing it?



Looking at the pictures of your system it looks like you have the same DirecTV model as I do. How have you set the handling of the inputs? In the menu you can set this to 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i (all or some). If you have it set to 1080i only then the receiver will do all the up-conversion to 1080i and then you might loose the 4:3 tags inherent in the signal. if you switch all of them on (and then maybe somewhere else to native on, can't remember) then it just passes on the native signal to the next component (Anthem for you VP50 for me). You can tell if it set up like this since as you change from a channel at 480i (for instance) to 1080i say the video processor has to resync the video and you can see this going on. If you have it set to only 1080i say then the transition form channel to channel is smooth since the VP (or Anthem) does not have to resync the video signal for the new resolution.


----------



## dbfreq

Is anyone using RS-232 to control their D2? The feedback for sources c - j (DVD2 - 4, TV2 - 4 and Sat2) is garbage. It's a known bug in the 1.33 firmware (it was fixed for the D2v). It should be fixed for 1.34. I wasted a few hours on this before calling Anthem. A few days later, I got an e-mail confirming the bug "was easily reproducible" and they didn't know how it had taken so long for someone to report it. Thought I might save someone else some time by posting this.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16031786
> 
> 
> The Anthem units aren't for everybody. All you can do is make your concerns known (as you've done) and move on -- digging into other products in the same fashion.
> 
> 
> If in the end you find other products aren't filling your needs in perhaps even more important ways -- needs that the Anthems CAN satisfy -- we'll be happy to see you back here!
> 
> --Bob



The following takes this discussion waaaay off on a tangent, but by chance it was something I read this week and it has an interesting slant that is relevant here about the lack of 'must have' features on new products.

http://weblog.infoworld.com/yager/ar...izon_stor.html


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbfreq* /forum/post/16032543
> 
> 
> Is anyone using RS-232 to control their D2? The feedback for sources c - j (DVD2 - 4, TV2 - 4 and Sat2) is garbage. It's a known bug in the 1.33 firmware (it was fixed for the D2v). It should be fixed for 1.34. I wasted a few hours on this before calling Anthem. A few days later, I got an e-mail confirming the bug "was easily reproducible" and they didn't know how it had taken so long for someone to report it. Thought I might save someone else some time by posting this.



I control my D2 with RS-232 using an RTI T-4 with virtually all of my inputs used, and have never had a problem of any kind.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/16032206
> 
> 
> Just to be clear, I couldn't care less about the ability to stream audio/video directly from the Anthem or any other gimmick. As a matter of fact I much prefer to buy a $200 device that I don't feel bad about throwing away when something better comes out. Really the only reason I would like ethernet is to replace the serial connection for uploads for firmware and ARC. Maybe it sounds illogical but I just don't like the serial connection very much (how many posts in this thread discuss problems with this?).
> 
> 
> Anyway, this is really my only complaint. The D2 is hands-down the best piece of equipment that I have ever bought and I think that Anthem is a fabulous company.



I agree with the first part about streaming but personally I much prefer serial for firmware updates, IMHO it is much less complicated then ethernet. What Anthem really needs is an USB port. Most of the problems encountered here are with those using USB to RS232 adapters. I've used my old laptop with a real RS232 port since day one and have done dozens of firmware and ARC uploads without incident. I'm sure I just jinxed myself










I use SlimDevices Squeezeboxes and Duets in my system for streaming and you are right they are a lot easier on the wallet if you need to switch them out.


----------



## dbfreq




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/16032847
> 
> 
> I control my D2 with RS-232 using an RTI T-4 with virtually all of my inputs used, and have never had a problem of any kind.



Switching to any of those inputs isn't a problem, but parsing the feedback is. If you're trying to get the audio stream coming in on an input c - j, the letters for the inputs come back as garbage, at least with Crestron, AMX and a direct serial connection.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16033231
> 
> 
> I agree with the first part about streaming but personally I much prefer serial for firmware updates, IMHO it is much less complicated then ethernet. What Anthem really needs is an USB port. Most of the problems encountered here are with those using USB to RS232 adapters. I've used my old laptop with a real RS232 port since day one and have done dozens of firmware and ARC uploads without incident. I'm sure I just jinxed myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use SlimDevices Squeezeboxes and Duets in my system for streaming and you are right they are a lot easier on the wallet if you need to switch them out.



It has been may years since I have owned a laptop with a serial port. Finding a laptop with RS-232 is not an easy thing these days, and as you say the RS-232 to USB adapters can be problematical. This means for most people RS-232 is not exactly convenient for firmware updates. Not to mention the usual RS-232 cable issues.


A USB port is somewhat better, but I don't see how someone who has a Squeezebox and has experienced the firmware update process on one of those can think USB is a better way to handle firmware updates than ethernet.


Ethernet is really the platinum standard for connectivity in the modern world. Once you have the hardware to do that the possibilities are only limited by your imagination.


Hopefully someday Anthem will support this.


----------



## Warpdrv

I agree with you guys 100% for either the Ethernet connection or the USB for firmware, I guess I'll find out when I get the D2v if I run into issues with my Dell business lappy running Vista....



It may almost be more beneficial instead of having problems with a USB - Serial adapter to get a PCMCIA card. Less chance of having issues with the conversion....


**Edit**

I searched the thread for PCMCIA, and its seems alot of people have had good luck with them.


----------



## obie_fl

I'm just slow to change (something about being an old dog) and slow to throw out old equipment. I have at least 4 or 5 old laptops laying around with rs232 ports.








Don't get me wrong ethernet updates would be very nice but for the average user networking can be fraught with pitfalls. I like the simplicity of plugging a cable into the USB and just clicking. Can we get both?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16032535
> 
> 
> Looking at the pictures of your system it looks like you have the same DirecTV model as I do. How have you set the handling of the inputs? In the menu you can set this to 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i (all or some). If you have it set to 1080i only then the receiver will do all the up-conversion to 1080i and then you might loose the 4:3 tags inherent in the signal. if you switch all of them on (and then maybe somewhere else to native on, can't remember) then it just passes on the native signal to the next component (Anthem for you VP50 for me). You can tell if it set up like this since as you change from a channel at 480i (for instance) to 1080i say the video processor has to resync the video and you can see this going on. If you have it set to only 1080i say then the transition form channel to channel is smooth since the VP (or Anthem) does not have to resync the video signal for the new resolution.



Mike:


My SAT receiver is a Bell 9242 (I'm in Canada), but I believe it is the same as the Dishnet 622. I only have a choice of selecting 480i, 480p, 720p or 1080i and no auto feature, unfortunately.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16033741
> 
> 
> I agree with you guys 100% for either the Ethernet connection or the USB for firmware, I guess I'll find out when I get the D2v if I run into issues with my Dell business lappy running Vista....



Hi,

Just a word of caution from someone who has been there - I had real problems with updates in the past on my AVM20 and then on my D2 with a Dell laptop. Don't want to get into anything here but I went out and bought a cheap used Compaq with a built in serial port and have had no issues with anything since then. This refurb laptop w. Windows XP I bought was the best $$$ I ever spent...removed a lot of headaches and stress.









/\\/\\


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Update from Nick on Manufacturing/Shipping Status*


I just got an email from Nick at Anthem clarifying what is going on with manufacturing and shipping.


Shipments are, indeed, currently on hold -- but due to a parts shortage in manufacturing, not due to bugs:



> Quote:
> The holdup is due to a shortage of a key part of the system (an IC), not an
> 
> "on purpose" hold due to software although as a side effect it does give
> 
> time to clean things up before more D2vs go out. The rumor's spin is kinda
> 
> funny in the sense that it's being disseminated just as most of the major
> 
> bugs in D2v software are gone. There was no dealer memo stating a reason
> 
> for delay - only how long delays are - but since some things evidently need
> 
> straightening out today's memo will add the reason.
> 
> 
> Orders we received by Feb 15 are *mostly* expected to be completed by April
> 
> 17. The rest including forecast are expected to be filled 45-60 days after
> 
> the order. Allocation is simple - first come first served except
> 
> replacement units which go out asap.




Unfortunately, this parts shortage is also going to affect the start of the D2 -> D2v and AVM 50 -> AVM 50v upgrade programs:



> Quote:
> This also pushes back v1 to v2 upgrades to no sooner than June. I know that
> 
> many people are waiting (the number of inquiries we get are second only to
> 
> "what version HDMI do you use") but nothing else can be done about it and if
> 
> there was, believe me we would do it - our production capacity was already
> 
> expanded a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Nick P., Technical Support




So there you have it. Looks like a one month delay in new product shipments due to the parts shortage, and a somewhat longer delay in the upgrade program due to the need to then catch up on the backorders.


It appears that Anthem may have underestimated demand even in the current economy!


There were a couple production glitches like this during the first year of D2 shipments as well. In the past, Anthem has regularly beat its estimates for when shipments would resume. We'll see what happens this time.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/16034422
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Just a word of caution from someone who has been there - I had real problems with updates in the past on my AVM20 and then on my D2 with a Dell laptop. Don't want to get into anything here but I went out and bought a cheap used Compaq with a built in serial port and have had no issues with anything since then. This refurb laptop w. Windows XP I bought was the best $$$ I ever spent...removed a lot of headaches and stress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /\\/\\



Anthem apparently discovered that some manufacturers, in the past, were making modifications to the version of Windows they bundled with their computers that impacted use of serial adapters. No names were mentioned, but I wouldn't be surprised if D*** was involved.


But I've no reason to think their current products have any such problem.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16034542
> 
> *Update from Nick on Manufacturing/Shipping Status*
> 
> 
> I just got an email from Nick at Anthem clarifying what is going on with manufacturing and shipping.
> 
> 
> Shipments are, indeed, currently on hold -- but due to a parts shortage in manufacturing, not due to bugs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, this parts shortage is also going to affect the start of the D2 -> D2v and AVM 50 -> AVM 50v upgrade programs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it. Looks like a one month delay in new product shipments due to the parts shortage, and a somewhat longer delay in the upgrade program due to the need to then catch up on the backorders.
> 
> 
> It appears that Anthem may have underestimated demand even in the current economy!
> 
> 
> There were a couple production glitches like this during the first year of D2 shipments as well. In the past, Anthem has regularly beat its estimates for when shipments would resume. We'll see what happens this time.
> 
> --Bob



So the March 10th date is no longer valid/didn't happen?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16034650
> 
> 
> So the March 10th date is no longer valid/didn't happen?



Apparently so. I don't believe we've had any new posts here from folks who received product in March.


The Distributor who posted the March 2 Anthem Backorder Report showing that March 10 date has not updated that posting yet.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k

Just glad I have my AVM 50 to play with in the mean time. Too bad it doesn't have ARC. How much does it cost to add ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/16034697
> 
> 
> Just glad I have my AVM 50 to play with in the mean time. Too bad it doesn't have ARC. How much does it cost to add ARC?



Adding ARC to an older AVM 50 involves a dealer installable hardware change -- the DSP board gets replaced. So there's the $400 for the ARC kit itself, plus $300 as I recall for the new ARC DSP board, plus a modest dealer installation fee.


Double check that pricing with your dealer as it's been a while since we checked on current pricing in this thread.


Note that if you were considering an AVM 50 to AVM 50v upgrade, that ARC DSP board would get replaced AGAIN as part of that upgrade. So although there might be a discount for the ARC license you already own, the money spent on the first ARC DSP board would not be recovered.

--Bob


----------



## malcolmp6

I would like to get my hands on an anthem D2V.

Can someone PM me street prices? My local dealer is strict on $7500.

There is no way I will pay anything close to MSRP.


Thanks.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16034542
> 
> *Update from Nick on Manufacturing/Shipping Status*
> 
> 
> I just got an email from Nick at Anthem clarifying what is going on with manufacturing and shipping.
> 
> 
> Shipments are, indeed, currently on hold -- but due to a parts shortage in manufacturing, not due to bugs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, this parts shortage is also going to affect the start of the D2 -> D2v and AVM 50 -> AVM 50v upgrade programs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it. Looks like a one month delay in new product shipments due to the parts shortage, and a somewhat longer delay in the upgrade program due to the need to then catch up on the backorders.
> 
> 
> It appears that Anthem may have underestimated demand even in the current economy!
> 
> 
> There were a couple production glitches like this during the first year of D2 shipments as well. In the past, Anthem has regularly beat its estimates for when shipments would resume. We'll see what happens this time.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, that's exactly what my dealer told me yesterday. He had to call customers back to tell them that it will be at least another month. He also told me that the part Anthem is waiting on is not expensive at all; but, they just need to get the parts in. My dealer is a little upset too because he sold his floor D2 in hopes of getting the D2V in soon. I offered mine to him in return for a D2V; but, he passed on that deal. I tried to help. Oh well.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/16029310
> 
> 
> Hey Ninja12, could you post your graphs so I could get an idea what "wobbles" look like? Bob told me a while ago to watch out for them if I set the Max EQ too high. I'd just like to get an idea of what to look out for, and how much is too much. Thanks



Sorry, I don't have those anymore. Once I saw the results, I knew I was not going to upload them, so, I just deleted them. If it ever happens again, I will keep them and post them. That was the worse ARC Measurement I have ever had since I owned ARC. The funny thing is I downloaded "Test" ARC V2.1, and I did the same thing the exact same way, and my measurements were much better.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16036236
> 
> 
> Yes, that's exactly what my dealer told me yesterday. He had to call customers back to tell them that it will be at least another month. He also told me that the part Anthem is waiting on is not expensive at all; but, they just need to get the parts in. My dealer is a little upset too because he sold his floor D2 in hopes of getting the D2V in soon. I offered mine to him in return for a D2V; but, he passed on that deal. I tried to help. Oh well.



And my replacement was supposed to be in the 10th march bacth but that was a no-show. Sounds like a long wait but at least I'm at the head of the line


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malcolmp6* /forum/post/16035447
> 
> 
> I would like to get my hands on an anthem D2V.
> 
> Can someone PM me street prices? My local dealer is strict on $7500.
> 
> There is no way I will pay anything close to MSRP.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I talked to my dealer yesterday, and 7500.00 is the price right now. Once the D2v upgrade is ready, the price for a new D2v will be going UP, he thinks around 8500.00 This unit is well worth 10K. Good luck shopping.


----------



## spiderv6

It's Friday. Must be a firmware release due...Bob? ;-)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't think we're going to see new firmware today. But it wouldn't surprise me if "test" ARC V2.1 was deemed "official" before the day is out.

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16034542
> 
> *Update from Nick on Manufacturing/Shipping Status*
> 
> Unfortunately, this parts shortage is also going to affect the start of the D2 -> D2v and AVM 50 -> AVM 50v upgrade programs:



Don't forget the D1-->D2V upgraders



> Quote:
> It appears that Anthem may have underestimated demand even in the current economy!



The upgrades will probably be just as the economy improves which is good as it will be easier to justify it to my wife


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/16017448
> 
> 
> Perhaps this is the master plan! They want us poor, pathetic D2 owners to get so wound up we put our beloved D2's on Audiogon and order a new
> 
> D2v...




Worked for me, i just posted mine on audiogon. I need more HDMI ports and i'm impatient!


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16037039
> 
> 
> I don't think we're going to see new firmware today. But it wouldn't surprise me if "test" ARC V2.1 was deemed "official" before the day is out.
> 
> --Bob



Bob You have missed the 2.04 release


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New OFFICIAL D2v / AVM 50v Firmware V2.04!*


Well I was kinda right, and a whole lot of wrong. The password protected download page has just been updated to add D2v and AVM 50v Firmware V2.04.


The change notes for the V2.xx firmware stream now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.04:
> 
> 
> Production build same as v2.03d.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.03d (beta):
> 
> 
> 1. HDCP/HDMI changes for improved handshaking and reduced flashing of output while switching sources.
> 
> 
> 2. Frame lock is disabled.
> 
> 
> 3. 480i to 1080i component input fix.
> 
> 
> 4. Various DSP fixes including a fix for 7.1 input to 5.1 output.
> 
> 
> 
> VIDEO PROCESSOR SETTINGS WILL BE LOST when this version is installed unless v2.02b or later is now in the processor. If using v2.02a or prior, the settings can be saved and transferred using Live Video Settings Editor.
> 
> 
> Known issue:
> 
> 
> 1. LFE gets redirected incorrectly if you have a speaker configuration without a sub and surrounds or rears are set to Large.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.03b (beta):
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for LFE level bug.
> 
> 
> 2. Further fix for menu 5 test noises (manual).
> 
> 
> 3. New software for video processor and audio DSP chips add stability.
> 
> 
> 4. Separate controls for mosquito vs block noise reduction.
> 
> 
> 5. Zoom removed from video processing since cropping input is the better way to achieve zoom.
> 
> 
> 6. Various minor display changes for status and video processing.
> 
> 
> 
> VIDEO PROCESSOR SETTINGS WILL BE LOST when this version is installed unless v2.02b or later is now in the processor. If using v2.02a or prior, the settings can be saved and transferred using Live Video Settings Editor.
> 
> 
> Known issues:
> 
> 
> 1. 7.1 to 5.1 downmix not working correctly with Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD. A center rear speaker is shown in status when the bug is in effect.
> 
> 
> 2. Frame Lock not working properly - this will not be fixed as inverse telecine is expected to replace it.
> 
> 
> 3. Video adjustments - while adjusting Brightness, Contrast, or Gamma near-black levels change in a seemingly random fashion. This may not be a bug, since making a change affects the while range.
> 
> 
> 4. XA2 - pops while pausing or scanning, audio dropouts while playing.
> 
> 
> 5. HDMI audio output may not work with some displays. In some cases the display may need to be powered on twice to get audio.
> 
> 
> 6. Playstation 3 sometimes does not connect.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.02c (beta):
> 
> 
> Bug fixes for:
> 
> 
> 1. "The Dark Night" BD on PS3 audio dropout at 1:20:07.
> 
> 
> 2. Level Calibration menu.
> 
> 
> 3. 7.1 to 5.1 downmix.
> 
> 
> 4. YCbCr black level / grayscale.
> 
> 
> 5. Various front panel display updates.
> 
> 
> 6. Deep color output.
> 
> 
> 7. Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD work up to 192 kHz.
> 
> 
> 8. PCM input over HDMI now supports up to 192 kHz with all common input configurations (2.0, 2.1, 5.1, 7.1 etc.)
> 
> 
> 9. Rears when 5.1 input is detected with PLIIx Movie applied (switching to None and back was the previous work-around to get sound from rears).
> 
> 
> 
> v2.02:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for audio dropouts with PCM input.
> 
> 
> 2. Fix for ARC test sweeps.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.00 D2v / v2.01 AVM 50v:
> 
> 
> Initial releases.




Note that V2.04 is deemed a "production" release. That's what makes it "official". Unfortunately, Anthem still doesn't have a public download page set up for the D2v or AVM 50v, so at the moment this version is only available from the password protected download page. But presumably this is now the version that will be factory installed in new units.


I was "kinda right" in the sense that this isn't really "new" firmware. It is just a production re-release of the V2.03d "test firmware -- i.e., they changed the version number.


But it's new in the sense that it is the new production firmware. So everybody with a D2v or AVM 50v reading this thread should either get access to it from Anthem tech support or at least keep an eye out for it to show up on some new public download page for the D2v and AVM 50v. We'll post the address of any such new, public download page as soon as we find it.


Meanwhile, also in the "wrong" column: "Test" ARC V2.1 still has not shown up as the next "official" ARC version. I need to get my crystal ball serviced!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/16037503
> 
> 
> Bob You have missed the 2.04 release



Oh sure! The sneaky sons o' guns posted it just 9 minutes after I made my comment!










--Bob


----------



## RMC22




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/16036732
> 
> 
> I talked to my dealer yesterday, and 7500.00 is the price right now. Once the D2v upgrade is ready, the price for a new D2v will be going UP, he thinks around 8500.00 This unit is well worth 10K. Good luck shopping.



Wow!! Seeing those numbers makes me think it might be the right time to pick up a used D2 and then do the upgrade when that becomes available!!!!!


Won't get 'v' sooner but will get it for less! Time to check out audiogon.


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16037551
> 
> 
> Oh sure! The sneaky sons o' guns posted it just 9 minutes after I made my comment!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



So sorry Bob, while you were zigging, I was a zagging. You still our best to go to guy.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've got an email in to Nick to find out what their plans are for posting the V2.04 D2v and AVM 50v firmware on a public download page.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RMC22* /forum/post/16037569
> 
> 
> Wow!! Seeing those numbers makes me think it might be the right time to pick up a used D2 and then do the upgrade when that becomes available!!!!!
> 
> 
> Won't get 'v' sooner but will get it for less! Time to check out audiogon.



If other folks can confirm the upgrade price that i heard from my dealer yesterday, was 3k for a D2-D2v..then Anthen has another WOW factor. I will have to wait for a D3 instead of a D2.5 It's hard to beat any type of D2 product.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/16037710
> 
> 
> If other folks can confirm the upgrade price that i heard from my dealer yesterday, was 3k for a D2-D2v..then Anthen has another WOW factor. I will have to wait for a D3 instead of a D2.5 It's hard to beat any type of D2 product.



Anthem has a history of giving dealers unofficial price estimates that turn out to be higher than the real price that finally gets set.


We've also heard (around the beginning of the year) that Anthem was targeting $1500 for the upgrade price. But their costs may have changed, and they may have bundled more things into the upgrade -- e.g., a new front panel or whatever. In any event $3000 does seem to be the number being bandied about at the moment. We'll just have to wait to see what they finally come up with.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Bob:


Odd discovery tonight. I was watching something on my PS3 in 4:3 and my picture automatically stretched.


----------



## wabbit636

questions....


I am looking to buy the ARC system and will sell my audyssey pro sound eq that I love and hope the ARC is as good or better!


If one has 2 subs, does the ARC correct them individually?


Does anyone know if the upgrade from D2 to D2V includes the ARC in the price? If it does and they don't make a special price for those with ARC then I might wait until I upgrade to get the ARC instead of getting it right now and it costs me more in the end....


Thanks


Pat


----------



## zuesmaximus

just ordered AVM50v today... can I use my new arc kit (that I had ordered and had anthem install to avm50 in for repair) to the avm50v?


----------



## zuesmaximus

also ordered old laptop with the 9pin serial port & windows XP, hope I what have any problems when its time to load up arc....can't wait!!! months without my HT...painfull


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16038109
> 
> 
> just ordered AVM50v today... can I use my new arc kit (that I had ordered and had anthem install to avm50 in for repair) to the avm50v?



Your new AVM 50v will come bundled with its own ARC kit. The Windows software is the same but you will need to transfer the pair of licensing/calibration files from the AVM 50v's ARC install CD to the Anthem Room Correction folder in Windows > Program Files.


In addition, you will need to use the new ARC mic that comes with your AVM 50v. The license and calibration files are keyed to the serial number of the new AVM 50v and the new ARC mic. Do NOT use your old ARC mic or you will get faulty results since it won't match up with your new calibration file.


Similarly, your current ARC results files for the AVM 50 are keyed to its serial number. So you won't be able to just Upload that into your new AVM 50v. You will need to do a new set of ARC Measurements -- using the new mic.


----------------------------------------


If you are keeping your old AVM 50/ARC unit, use your original ARC mic for any Measurements you do with it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/16038095
> 
> 
> questions....
> 
> 
> I am looking to buy the ARC system and will sell my audyssey pro sound eq that I love and hope the ARC is as good or better!
> 
> 
> If one has 2 subs, does the ARC correct them individually?
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if the upgrade from D2 to D2V includes the ARC in the price? If it does and they don't make a special price for those with ARC then I might wait until I upgrade to get the ARC instead of getting it right now and it costs me more in the end....
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Pat



New D2v units come bundled with ARC.


If you are doing an upgrade from a D2 to a D2v we believe that Anthem will have separate pricing according to whether or not you already have an ARC license for the D2 being upgraded. They will need to send you a new pair of licensing/calibration files to enable ARC to work with the upgraded unit. The pricing for the upgrades has not yet been announced, so we are guessing here.


Since you are trying to decide now on an ARC upgrade purchase, I suggest you email Anthem tech support and see if they can give you any commitment on this -- e.g., the D2v upgrade price will be discounted since you already own ARC for the D2 being upgraded.


It makes sense for them to do a discount since your old ARC license will no longer work on any Anthem unit (i.e., the hardware part of the upgrade changes the unit serial number). So its not like you end up with an ARC license good on two different units.


The cost of the ARC upgrade for your current D2 is $399. Not a huge amount of money, but it is worth seeing if you can nail this down before you buy.


-----------------------------------------


ARC Measures and corrects all of your subs as a set.


That means folks with two subs need to do a few preliminary steps before making your ARC Measurements. Power one sub at a time and:


1) Go to Setup > Speaker Configuration and specify you have "1 Sub". This is the setting you must use with ARC even if you have more than one subwoofer.


2) Go to Setup > Level Calibration. Zero all lines in there. Select Manual test mode in the first line. Scroll down one line to the Test/Noise Level line and adjust it to measure 75dB SPL. The tone will be coming from your LF speaker.


3) Scroll down to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at zero. Adjust the internal volume control in the sub you have powered to measure 73dB (not 75dB). Two subs both adjusted separately to 73dB will yield roughly 75dB in combo when played together.


4) Exit the Setup menu. Play a phase adjustment test tone from a calibration DVD. Adjust the internal phase control on the powered subwoofer to achieve maximum base in combo with the LF speaker -- particularly concentrating on the higher bass frequencies. Two subs that are each individually phase adjusted to the LF speaker are also phase adjusted to each other.


Repeat steps (2) through (4) with just your other sub powered.


Now power both subs and do your ARC Measurements. The Test/Noise Level line setting you have made will be used by ARC to adjust the volume of its test sweep tones. The volume adjustments you have made in your two subs balance them against each other and insure that the combo playing together is reasonably matched to what the main speakers produce so ARC can volume trim everything up. The phase adjustments you have made make sure ARC is hearing bass from your two subs together in proper phase alignment both with each other and with the main speakers..

--Bob


----------



## RMC22




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/16037710
> 
> 
> If other folks can confirm the upgrade price that i heard from my dealer yesterday, was 3k for a D2-D2v..then Anthen has another WOW factor. I will have to wait for a D3 instead of a D2.5 It's hard to beat any type of D2 product.



I'm predicting an upgrade price of more like $2500 and with used D2's at around $3800, that's still a whole lot less than $7500 or $8500. and since 'v's' aren't available for quite a while, it's a good way to enjoy a D2 right away and then upgrade later--it also spreads out payments!!! Just thinking out loud....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16038007
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Odd discovery tonight. I was watching something on my PS3 in 4:3 and my picture automatically stretched.



Evidently you have your PS3 set to not add pillar box bars to 4:3 content.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16038663
> 
> 
> Evidently you have your PS3 set to not add pillar box bars to 4:3 content.
> 
> --Bob



Update on that. It does not stretch everything. Very bizarre.


----------



## ninja12

Well, I just finished watching Transporter 3. This movie has some good scenes to really test your subwoofer such as when the car crashes through the house and especially the scene when the ambulance explodes. When the ambulance exploded, my subwoofer pressurized my listening room so much that it felt like it was taking my breath away a little. It was so strong and filling that my wife asked me to replay that scene and come sit on the main level of our house with her. She had a bottle of water on the table. When the scene replayed, of course I felt it on the main level; but, the water in the bottle was moving. She then asked me if I had the volume on my subwoofer turned all the way up. I just smiled and said no, it's only on 7. She couldn't believe it; but, it was true. The volume, on my DD18, was only set on 7. The bass was just so tight, clean, and quick. I was a little nervous at first because I have never had it fill my room to the point where it felt like it was about to take my breath away. I don't know what Anthem did with this version of ARC; but, I can say that I truly love it. Man, how much more improvement can they do with ARC?


----------



## tngiloy

I had an interesting finding today as I remeasured with ARC2.0.3beta.

I was remeasuring because I had just installed some bass traps in the corners behind my front speakers.

I ran a few different readings using the fronts only and 'movie the same as music' so that I could test different front speaker positions with the bass traps installed. I had a 5-6 db dip at about 60-120hz that I was trying to correct with the bass traps. When I looked at the ARC results they were exceptional! The target matched the calculated almost perfectly. So I then reran ARC using 7.1 movie and 2.1 for music. The results, although better than my pre- bass-trap readings, were not anywhere as good as the 'fronts only' readings in the 60-120hz area.

I was confused, so I looked closer at the 'fronts only' and the '7.1 and 2.1' speaker configurations and I noticed that in the 'fronts only' targets it had forced 'full range' and set the x-over at 35hz(which is consistent with the speaker specs) and had set the fronts x-over at 60hz for the 7.1/2.1 ARC reading (which is consistent with recent ARC calculations).

So I switched the fronts x-overs down in the 7.1/2.1 readings and recalculated. At 45hz the fronts calculated matched the target again.

I had uploaded the 'not so perfect' ARC before I noticed this x-over difference, and the results were great, just as all my recent ARC results have been. I have not yet uploaded the newer calculations since my wife is in bed and I value my gonads, but I do plan to listen to it tomorrow.

My question is: Is ARC using the subs in the 7.1/2.1 calculations to fill in the deficit in the 60-120hz area or,theoretically, am I better off forcing a lower x-over in the fronts and getting the calculated to better match the targets for the front speakers?









'Max eq freq' is set at 20000 for both, and room gain is @2.6 movie and @2.1 music for both calculations.

Tom


----------



## tngiloy

Here is the correct second image.









Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks (like me) who are having trouble getting Live Video Settings Editor to complete a proper Get operation to retrieve the current Video Source Adjust menu settings from the Anthem (i.e., it doesn't finish, or it finishes but some values shown in LVSE are not correct when you check), try this:


Power up the Anthem BEFORE running LVSE, rather than using the button in LVSE to power up the Anthem.


I just tried that, and for the first time in a while I got a perfect retrieval via Get. In the past it had been my habit to use the button in LVSE to power up the Anthem.


Please report both positive and negative results trying this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16039361
> 
> 
> I had an interesting finding today as I remeasured with ARC2.0.3beta.
> 
> I was remeasuring because I had just installed some bass traps in the corners behind my front speakers.
> 
> I ran a few different readings using the fronts only and 'movie the same as music' so that I could test different front speaker positions with the bass traps installed. I had a 5-6 db dip at about 60-120hz that I was trying to correct with the bass traps. When I looked at the ARC results they were exceptional! The target matched the calculated almost perfectly. So I then reran ARC using 7.1 movie and 2.1 for music. The results, although better than my pre- bass-trap readings, were not anywhere as good as the 'fronts only' readings in the 60-120hz area.
> 
> I was confused, so I looked closer at the 'fronts only' and the '7.1 and 2.1' speaker configurations and I noticed that in the 'fronts only' targets it had forced 'full range' and set the x-over at 35hz(which is consistent with the speaker specs) and had set the fronts x-over at 60hz for the 7.1/2.1 ARC reading (which is consistent with recent ARC calculations).
> 
> So I switched the fronts x-overs down in the 7.1/2.1 readings and recalculated. At 45hz the fronts calculated matched the target again.
> 
> I had uploaded the 'not so perfect' ARC before I noticed this x-over difference, and the results were great, just as all my recent ARC results have been. I have not yet uploaded the newer calculations since my wife is in bed and I value my gonads, but I do plan to listen to it tomorrow.
> 
> My question is: Is ARC using the subs in the 7.1/2.1 calculations to fill in the deficit in the 60-120hz area or,theoretically, am I better off forcing a lower x-over in the fronts and getting the calculated to better match the targets for the front speakers?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Max eq freq' is set at 20000 for both, and room gain is @2.6 movie and @2.1 music for both calculations.
> 
> Tom



I think what's going on here is that the dip near 90Hz that you are trying to deal with is confusing ARC into thinking your LF/RF speakers roll off at a higher frequency than they really do. So ARC sets a slightly higher crossover for them.


Now take a look at what's happened to the Target curve in both cases at, say 70Hz. Note that it is lower in the first chart where ARC has picked the 60Hz crossover. What's happening is that ARC is already dealing with the roll off imposed by that bass management crossover. I.e., it is terminating the low frequency end of the Room Gain hump by starting a "cut" near there.


Because of that, it doesn't have enough "boost" ability to counter both that "cut" and the dip itself, which means you are left with a residual error. Now the error is tiny -- probably ignorable -- but lets look at what happened in the second chart.


This time you took over for ARC and manually lowered the crossover a bit. Notice that at 70Hz the Target curve is higher -- you are still in the midst of the Room Gain hump. That means ARC has not yet applied the effect of the bass management crossover roll-off. Since ARC is no longer fighting both the crossover and the dip, it apparently has just enough "boost" capability left to completely correct the dip.


Note that this has nothing to do with the sub filling in. It is entirely due to how ARC expends its resources on each speaker, along with the fact that ARC limits the maximum boost it will try to do at any frequency to keep from stressing the amp or speaker.


You have found an interesting boundary case where manually lowering the crossover actually makes it easier for ARC to do its job.


------------------------------------------------


Now you have to look at the full solution here to make sure you aren't introducing any down side by doing this.


When you lower the crossover for LF/RF, ARC has to pull back a bit on the sub to keep from having too much bass through that lowered crossover region. That may mean that there's a bit more of a gap between the low end of your surrounds and when the sub takes over. Only your Rears have a high enough crossover to have an issue here (you didn't include them in your charts).


Check where the rears drop down below the basic volume level as their crossover kicks in. It should be right around 95Hz. Now check where the sub crosses down below that as it goes up in frequency. Right now it's about 50Hz. That gap is the problem. Now look at the roll off in each case. How far do you go in frequency before it drops 3dB below the basic volume level or 5dB. The more overlap between the high end of the sub and the low end of the Rears the better. Anyway, check out how that changes as you lower the crossover for the fronts. If there's not much change, then you are probably OK.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I installed D2v firmware V2.04 and ARC V2.1. No problems. No surprises.


I used my ARC Measurement file taken when I had "test" ARC V2.0.1.1 installed (along with "test" firmware V2.02c), and had ARC V2.1 do an Auto Detect (no changes produced) and a Calculation at 20KHz. That's Uploaded now.


So far -- and as expected -- I find no differences between firmware V2.04 and "test" firmware V2.03d, nor between ARC V2.1 and "test" ARC V2.0.3.


I'm going to hold off doing a new Measurement pass until we see ARC V2.1 show up on the public download pages as the "official" release.


-----------------------------------------


Folks there are still bugs in the V2.04 firmware, but they are pretty subtle. This firmware is *A LOT* better than the V2.00 and V2.02 launch releases for the D2v and AVM 50v. In my opinion, all D2v and AVM 50v owners should move to firmware V2.04 as soon as possible.


If you are coming from firmware older than V2.02b, be aware that you will lose your Video Source Adjust menu settings in this update. You can save and restore Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file using the Live Video Settings Editor utility (found in the ARC install folder). Or you can just jot them down and re-enter them manually.


If you are coming from V2.00 or V2.02 you should plan on redoing your video and audio calibrations after this update to make sure you are taking advantage of all the bug fixes.


----------------------------------------------


ARC V2.1 is a significant improvement over ARC V2.0.1 as well. I recommend all ARC users move to this new release.


Keep in mind that ARC V2.1 is not just for D2v and AVM 50v owners. It is applicable to all Anthem units that support ARC. D2 and AVM 50 owners should already be on firmware V1.33. If not, now is the time to do that update as well.


The release notes for ARC V2.1 say you can use Measurement files as old as ARC V1.2.5 -- just re-Calculate and re-Upload. And I would agree that's certainly a good way to start.


But I think it wise to plan some time to do a new Measurement pass as well. If for no other reason than that you will capture any subtle changes in your listening room since your last Measurement that might have escaped your notice.

--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings

Sorry for the stupid question, but you guys talk previously about Sticky thread.


What does it mean, Sticky thread?


_______

Bob


----------



## PaulF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/16032206
> 
> 
> ...Really the only reason I would like ethernet is to replace the serial connection for uploads for firmware and ARC. Maybe it sounds illogical but I just don't like the serial connection very much (how many posts in this thread discuss problems with this?).



We're on the same page, what I would like is a D2v with Ethernet management.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16033231
> 
> 
> ...What Anthem really needs is an USB port. Most of the problems encountered here are with those using USB to RS232 adapters.



I guess USB would be OK if it could support an Ethernet to USB adapter without the same issues as the USB to serial.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16033383
> 
> 
> It has been may years since I have owned a laptop with a serial port. Finding a laptop with RS-232 is not an easy thing these days, and as you say the RS-232 to USB adapters can be problematical. This means for most people RS-232 is not exactly convenient for firmware updates. Not to mention the usual RS-232 cable issues.
> 
> 
> A USB port is somewhat better, but I don't see how someone who has a Squeezebox and has experienced the firmware update process on one of those can think USB is a better way to handle firmware updates than ethernet.
> 
> 
> Ethernet is really the platinum standard for connectivity in the modern world. Once you have the hardware to do that the possibilities are only limited by your imagination.
> 
> 
> Hopefully someday Anthem will support this.



Agreed, one of my two already fairly old laptops does not support serial either.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16039912
> 
> 
> Sorry for the stupid question, but you guys talk previously about Sticky thread.
> 
> 
> What does it mean, Sticky thread?
> 
> 
> _______
> 
> Bob



The "sticky threads" are the threads collected at the top of the first page of each forum's list of threads.


The forum moderators have the ability to stick threads up there so that they don't disappear onto later pages if people don't post in them that often.


Normal threads bump up to the top of the normal thread list as each new post is made in them. So threads that don't get that many posts tend to end up pushed off to later pages in the forum where they are somewhat harder to find.


The idea is that sticky threads have important information that most readers of the forum will need -- so they are collected up top where they are always easy to find.

--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings

Thank you very much Bob, for the very clear explanation.


_______

Bob



Note> From what I now understand, the Anthem thread should be in a class of it's own.

It is not a normal thread, it is not a sticky thread, it is an Exceptional thread.


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16039465
> 
> 
> For folks (like me) who are having trouble getting Live Video Settings Editor to complete a proper Get operation to retrieve the current Video Source Adjust menu settings from the Anthem (i.e., it doesn't finish, or it finishes but some values shown in LVSE are not correct when you check), try this:
> 
> 
> Power up the Anthem BEFORE running LVSE, rather than using the button in LVSE to power up the Anthem.
> 
> 
> I just tried that, and for the first time in a while I got a perfect retrieval via Get. In the past it had been my habit to use the button in LVSE to power up the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Please report both positive and negative results trying this.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I tried this both ways and could not get it to work. I emailed Nick about this and he said that this is a known issue that they are working on.


----------



## zuesmaximus

Thanks Bob...


----------



## drmabuse

Hi Fellow Anthemites!

Suggestion and thoughts? With the fact that there are now "v" versions of both the D2 and AVM50 in the market should we establish a protocol here of identifying in our posts which model/version we are using?

Now that there are firmware versions that are not compatible between models it is getting tough to know what situations effect me and which ones do not.

I have added "D2 User" to my custom ID and am going to check with this post if that worked!

/\\/\\


Seems like it did - thoughts?


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/16040517
> 
> 
> Hi Fellow Anthemites!
> 
> Suggestion and thoughts? With the fact that there are now "v" versions of both the D2 and AVM50 in the market should we establish a protocol here of identifying in our posts which model/version we are using?
> 
> Now that there are firmware versions that are not compatible between models it is getting tough to know what situations effect me and which ones do not.
> 
> I have added "D2 User" to my custom ID and am going to check with this post if that worked!
> 
> /\\/\\
> 
> 
> Seems like it did - thoughts?



how do you do that?


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *osofast240sx* /forum/post/16040690
> 
> 
> how do you do that?



Hi,

Just go into UserCP tab choose Edit Your Details from the left sidebar menu and you will see the area to add a custom profile.

/\\/\\


----------



## TheLion

Dear Bob,


first of all thank you very much for all your kind advice here. You are THE reason I consider a D2v as an upgrade option for my existing Genelec/Onkyo 886 setup.


There is ONE thing that is actually holding me back right now - it is the way ARC treats subwoofer calibration.


To think that anybody serious about this hobby and willing to invest ~$7500 in a pre/pro is using ONE subwoofer or at least a set of subwoofers in ONE single location is rather unlikely. I for one choose to employ 4 different subwoofer locations in my dedicated room (following Harman's white paper all at mid-wall points).


What I am looking for and what I expect of such an expensive and able unit as the D2v is the capability to calibrate/correct at the very least TWO independent subwoofer channels/locations - preferably four. Multiple subwoofer locations are by all means a requirement of "good" and even (across a whole listening area) bass response in just about any room/setup.


Now on to my question - is Anthem aware of this (IMHO) very serious shortcoming and furthermore are they working on an ARC upgrade including this essential feature?


Otherwise this is such a well executed device and I sincerely hope Anthem will continue to be successful with it.


Thank you very much and greetings from good old Europe!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16038623
> 
> 
> New D2v units come bundled with ARC.
> 
> 
> If you are doing an upgrade from a D2 to a D2v we believe that Anthem will have separate pricing according to whether or not you already have an ARC license for the D2 being upgraded. They will need to send you a new pair of licensing/calibration files to enable ARC to work with the upgraded unit. The pricing for the upgrades has not yet been announced, so we are guessing here.
> 
> 
> Since you are trying to decide now on an ARC upgrade purchase, I suggest you email Anthem tech support and see if they can give you any commitment on this -- e.g., the D2v upgrade price will be discounted since you already own ARC for the D2 being upgraded.
> 
> 
> It makes sense for them to do a discount since your old ARC license will no longer work on any Anthem unit (i.e., the hardware part of the upgrade changes the unit serial number). So its not like you end up with an ARC license good on two different units.
> 
> 
> The cost of the ARC upgrade for your current D2 is $399. Not a huge amount of money, but it is worth seeing if you can nail this down before you buy.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ARC Measures and corrects all of your subs as a set.
> 
> 
> That means folks with two subs need to do a few preliminary steps before making your ARC Measurements. Power one sub at a time and:
> 
> 
> 1) Go to Setup > Speaker Configuration and specify you have "1 Sub". This is the setting you must use with ARC even if you have more than one subwoofer.
> 
> 
> 2) Go to Setup > Level Calibration. Zero all lines in there. Select Manual test mode in the first line. Scroll down one line to the Test/Noise Level line and adjust it to measure 75dB SPL. The tone will be coming from your LF speaker.
> 
> 
> 3) Scroll down to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at zero. Adjust the internal volume control in the sub you have powered to measure 73dB (not 75dB). Two subs both adjusted separately to 73dB will yield roughly 75dB in combo when played together.
> 
> 
> 4) Exit the Setup menu. Play a phase adjustment test tone from a calibration DVD. Adjust the internal phase control on the powered subwoofer to achieve maximum base in combo with the LF speaker -- particularly concentrating on the higher bass frequencies. Two subs that are each individually phase adjusted to the LF speaker are also phase adjusted to each other.
> 
> 
> Repeat steps (2) through (4) with just your other sub powered.
> 
> 
> Now power both subs and do your ARC Measurements. The Test/Noise Level line setting you have made will be used by ARC to adjust the volume of its test sweep tones. The volume adjustments you have made in your two subs balance them against each other and insure that the combo playing together is reasonably matched to what the main speakers produce so ARC can volume trim everything up. The phase adjustments you have made make sure ARC is hearing bass from your two subs together in proper phase alignment both with each other and with the main speakers..
> 
> --Bob


----------



## TheLion

btw Bob - before you suggest something like it - the option to go with an additional external device like the upcoming SVS EQ-1 in combination with an D2v seems not agreeable to me.


Yes - it does support the feature but the additional A/D D/A step makes it a "compromise".


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheLion* /forum/post/16040838
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to my question - is Anthem aware of this (IMHO) very serious shortcoming and furthermore are they working on an ARC upgrade including this essential feature?



I don't see it as much of an Issue.


I feed the LFE output from a D2 to a 6 Channel RANE SM26B Analog

Mixer Splitter. I have 20,000 watts of LFE split across 6 LFE Devices

that can reproduce LFE to 2hz. I use each channel of the RANE to

Adjust each LFE channel by itself and then I let ARC do the rest.


The ARC run I did last night with Version 2.1 Looks Good and Sounds GOOD!


----------



## TheLion

How to you overcome all the phase issues?? Simply adjusting the "phase" so that the best match between several subwoofers at a given frequency is achieved - as described by Bob's approach above - doesn't even begin to solve them ("phase" is frequency dependend - you need to correct in the frequency and time domain - which isn't doable by setting the phase control on ones subwoofer manually). That's the magic of calibrating subwoofer locations independently - so that the combined output is optimized over the whole time/frequency spectrum.


Is it really just the LFE output (setting all speakers full range) or to you have the speakers crossed over as well? What speakers are you using that keep up with this amount of bass energy?? And I thought I was crazy ;-)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16040903
> 
> 
> I don't see it as much of an Issue.
> 
> 
> I feed the LFE output from a D2 to a 6 Channel RANE SM26B Analog
> 
> Mixer Splitter. I have 20,000 watts of LFE split across 6 LFE Devices
> 
> that can reproduce LFE to 2hz. I use each channel of the RANE to
> 
> Adjust each LFE channel by itself and then I let ARC do the rest.
> 
> 
> The ARC run I did last night with Version 2.1 Looks Good and Sounds GOOD!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheLion* /forum/post/16041100
> 
> 
> How to you overcome all the phase issues??



All I can say is the ARC Curve I provided looks pretty good.


And anyone who has VIBRATED in my Theater Says it FEELS GOOD


----------



## CycloneMike

Got the call yesterday and the D2v is on its way and I should be able to pick it up on Wednesday. I ordered the unit on January 26. (2009).


I will have to start from "scratch", but previously owned a D2 with ARC, so I am familiar with the general menu's and setups for audio, but never really got into the video side as I was always pretty happy with the results of my calibrated 1080p 60/24 projector.


If you were to recommend a "start-up" order for a new D2v owner, what would it consist of?


On a similar note - should I connect my TWC SA8300 DVR via HDMI to the D2v or via a component cable and digital cable? I usually have the box "bypass" the incoming resolution to the D2v and let the D2v do the processing.


And also, has the problem with switching to 480i and back to another resolution on the D2v been fixed yet?


Not knowing what software version will be on my unit when it arrives, should I update the D2v software version before hooking everything (especially HDMI) up and should I update the ARC version before running ARC?


Thank you,


Mike


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16039556
> 
> 
> 
> Now you have to look at the full solution here to make sure you aren't introducing any down side by doing this.
> 
> 
> When you lower the crossover for LF/RF, ARC has to pull back a bit on the sub to keep from having too much bass through that lowered crossover region. That may mean that there's a bit more of a gap between the low end of your surrounds and when the sub takes over. Only your Rears have a high enough crossover to have an issue here (you didn't include them in your charts).
> 
> 
> Check where the rears drop down below the basic volume level as their crossover kicks in. It should be right around 95Hz. Now check where the sub crosses down below that as it goes up in frequency. Right now it's about 50Hz. That gap is the problem. Now look at the roll off in each case. How far do you go in frequency before it drops 3dB below the basic volume level or 5dB. The more overlap between the high end of the sub and the low end of the Rears the better. Anyway, check out how that changes as you lower the crossover for the fronts. If there's not much change, then you are probably OK.
> 
> --Bob



I think I understand your concerns, but as I toggled between the screens for the 2 ARC graphs, the one ARC set at 60hz and the one I changed to 45hz, the subwoofer chart remained identical.

I'm not sure what you were saying about the rears and surrounds, so I will try to include the graphs with this message.

BTW what is the improvement/drawbacks with ARC2.1 compared to 2.0.3?

If there aren't any problems I may upgrade and 'auto-detect' and then rerun these latest measurements and see if there are any difference in the x-overs that ARC sets.

As always, thanks for your help Bob.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/16040091
> 
> 
> Bob, I tried this both ways and could not get it to work. I emailed Nick about this and he said that this is a known issue that they are working on.



Thanks for that. Oh well, I must have just been lucky last night.


I think this got broken with the V2.02b "test" firmware -- which is also the one where the Video Adjust Menu settings changed their internal implementation (which is why the settings don't survive the update to that version or later from any earlier version).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16040068
> 
> 
> Note> From what I now understand, the Anthem thread should be in a class of it's own.
> 
> It is not a normal thread, it is not a sticky thread, it is an Exceptional thread.



...and for Exceptional people (hey, we aint called the Cool Kids for nothin'!).


So think of it as a test. If you can't find the thread you probably shouldn't be here.










If we make it a sticky, ANYONE could find it!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/16040517
> 
> 
> Hi Fellow Anthemites!
> 
> Suggestion and thoughts? With the fact that there are now "v" versions of both the D2 and AVM50 in the market should we establish a protocol here of identifying in our posts which model/version we are using?
> 
> Now that there are firmware versions that are not compatible between models it is getting tough to know what situations effect me and which ones do not.
> 
> I have added "D2 User" to my custom ID and am going to check with this post if that worked!
> 
> /\\/\\
> 
> 
> Seems like it did - thoughts?



You could also put it in your signature: The D2 user without a shadow.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheLion* /forum/post/16040838
> 
> 
> Dear Bob,
> 
> 
> first of all thank you very much for all your kind advice here. You are THE reason I consider a D2v as an upgrade option for my existing Genelec/Onkyo 886 setup.
> 
> 
> There is ONE thing that is actually holding me back right now - it is the way ARC treats subwoofer calibration.
> 
> 
> To think that anybody serious about this hobby and willing to invest ~$7500 in a pre/pro is using ONE subwoofer or at least a set of subwoofers in ONE single location is rather unlikely. I for one choose to employ 4 different subwoofer locations in my dedicated room (following Harman's white paper all at mid-wall points).
> 
> 
> What I am looking for and what I expect of such an expensive and able unit as the D2v is the capability to calibrate/correct at the very least TWO independent subwoofer channels/locations - preferably four. Multiple subwoofer locations are by all means a requirement of "good" and even (across a whole listening area) bass response in just about any room/setup.
> 
> 
> Now on to my question - is Anthem aware of this (IMHO) very serious shortcoming and furthermore are they working on an ARC upgrade including this essential feature?
> 
> 
> Otherwise this is such a well executed device and I sincerely hope Anthem will continue to be successful with it.
> 
> 
> Thank you very much and greetings from good old Europe!



Anthem is very much aware that some folks out there want independent control of their subs, whether or not they are also using ARC. However that isn't going to happen in the D2v or AVM 50v. It would require too much of a hardware change.


I will repeat what I always say when this issue comes up: Although it is possible to raise technical objections, for all practical purposes all of your subs work together to pressurize the entire room. Thus, once your subs have been volume balanced against each other and phase matched to each other it is perfectly reasonable to calibrate them as a set.


Indeed, if you are using ARC it is actually PREFERABLE to calibrate them as a set since ARC will then hear any residual phase errors that are causing your set of subs to produce some nulls or resonances with respect to each other. ARC can then work to correct that. If ARC listened to each sub separately it would not be able to detect such phase errors or correct for them. [The idea of doing phase adjustment of your multiple subs prior to ARC Measurement is to minimize the amount of work ARC has to do for this, so that ARC can concentrate its resources on other issues.]


-------------------------------------


As far as hookup itself goes, the Anthem units provide 4 sub outputs (2 RCA and 2 XLR, with the normal 6dB level difference between the two types). So the physical hookup is not an issue. It's just that all 4 of those jacks carry always, and only, the same signal (except for that standard level difference).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheLion* /forum/post/16040868
> 
> 
> btw Bob - before you suggest something like it - the option to go with an additional external device like the upcoming SVS EQ-1 in combination with an D2v seems not agreeable to me.
> 
> 
> Yes - it does support the feature but the additional A/D D/A step makes it a "compromise".



My recommendation is the opposite: That folks try to do their bass setup without adding anything between the subs and ARC in the Anthem.


What's required is that you get subs that each have their own internal controls for volume, polarity, and phase -- along with the ability to disable any internal crossover built into each sub. Then you set them up as I described, and ARC takes it from there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16041279
> 
> 
> Got the call yesterday and the D2v is on its way and I should be able to pick it up on Wednesday. I ordered the unit on January 26. (2009).
> 
> 
> I will have to start from "scratch", but previously owned a D2 with ARC, so I am familiar with the general menu's and setups for audio, but never really got into the video side as I was always pretty happy with the results of my calibrated 1080p 60/24 projector.
> 
> 
> If you were to recommend a "start-up" order for a new D2v owner, what would it consist of?
> 
> 
> On a similar note - should I connect my TWC SA8300 DVR via HDMI to the D2v or via a component cable and digital cable? I usually have the box "bypass" the incoming resolution to the D2v and let the D2v do the processing.
> 
> 
> And also, has the problem with switching to 480i and back to another resolution on the D2v been fixed yet?
> 
> 
> Not knowing what software version will be on my unit when it arrives, should I update the D2v software version before hooking everything (especially HDMI) up and should I update the ARC version before running ARC?
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> Mike



First of all, yes you should update to firmware V2.04 and ARC V2.1 as quickly as possible. You should certainly do this before you spend any substantial amount of time calibrating the video and audio setup.


By the way, there's a new batch of cookies on hand for the first person to power up a new D2v or AVM 50v and confirm it came with firmware V2.04 or later factory installed, and for the first person to install from the ARC CD that came with a new D2v or AVM 50v and confirm that it shipped with ARC V2.1 or later!


To see the firmware version, press Select once on the remote and read the version number from the display.


To see the ARC version, run ARC in Advanced mode and select the About item from the Help menu.


-----------------------------------------------------


Looks like you may have snuck in just before the parts shortage put things on hold! Congratulations!


This should be encouraging to the folks who were hoping to get in on the anticipated March 10 shipments.


My personal bias is to do video calibration first and then do audio calibration. Be sure to review the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the post links collected in the first post of this thread.


You should probably hook up your TWC set top box both ways -- HDMI and Component. Then you can pick whichever is working better for you. Use Optical or Coax Digital Audio cabling with Component video. There appears to be some improvement in Component input in the D2v compared to my D2. I've now switched to using Component from my Comcast box.


The Component 480i to "anything else" transition bug is indeed fixed in the V2.04 firmware.

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16039465
> 
> 
> For folks (like me) who are having trouble getting Live Video Settings Editor to complete a proper Get operation to retrieve the current Video Source Adjust menu settings from the Anthem (i.e., it doesn't finish, or it finishes but some values shown in LVSE are not correct when you check), try this:
> 
> 
> Power up the Anthem BEFORE running LVSE, rather than using the button in LVSE to power up the Anthem.
> 
> 
> I just tried that, and for the first time in a while I got a perfect retrieval via Get. In the past it had been my habit to use the button in LVSE to power up the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Please report both positive and negative results trying this.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I updated to 2.04 and ARC 2.1 this morning. All went well and my issues appear to be resolved, Deep Color and 480i/1080i on Component.


A used the Live Video Settings Editor and all worked well. I did have my D2v powered up when I ran it.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/16013598
> 
> 
> I fixed my Pronto Professional RS-232 problem. I didn't have to turn RS-232 TXstatus to on, but the solution was in the same menu. The baud rate is configurable and was set to 19,200 on my D2 but I had my Pronto set to transmit at 9,600. I made one setting change and everything immediately started working with all commands. And let me tell you, there are a ton of commands via RS-232. I have most of them entered into my Pronto database but I don't think I'll ever use the majority of them.
> 
> 
> By the way, the RS-232 TX status simply echos the commands and status changes back over the serial port. This is useful if you set your remote up for 2-way communication (where it displays volume, input, and other info on the remote), or if the remote is looking for confirmation that a command is sent properly. I'm only worried about 1-way control for now, but may spend some time writing the 2-way status code sometime in the future.
> 
> 
> Thanks for pointing me in the right direction; it's nice to finally have a universal remote that is universal.



Carlton:


Sorry I missed your original posts. I run two systems in my house with a Pronto 9600 running RS-232. I do use RS-232 to run my D2, but via an AMX system. I don't use my Pronto for it.


If further questions come up, you can PM me or post again. Hopefully I'll notice it next time.


RS-232 control of the D2 is nothing short of amazing, BTW. The command set is extensive beyond belief.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16041628
> 
> 
> First of all, yes you should update to firmware V2.04 and ARC V2.1 as quickly as possible. You should certainly do this before you spend an substantial amount of time calibrating the video and audio setup.
> 
> 
> By the way, there's a new batch of cookies on hand for the first person to power up a new D2v or AVM 50v and confirm it came with firmware V2.04 or later factory installed, and for the first person to install from the ARC CD that came with a new D2v or AVM 50v and confirm that it shipped with ARC V2.1 or later!
> 
> 
> To see the firmware version, press Select once on the remote and read the version number from the display.
> 
> 
> To see the ARC version, run ARC in Advanced mode and select the About item from the Help menu.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Looks like you may have snuck in just before the parts shortage put things on hold! Congratulations!
> 
> 
> This should be encouraging to the folks who were hoping to get in on the anticipated March 10 shipments.
> 
> 
> My personal bias is to do video calibration first and then do audio calibration. Be sure to review the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the post links collected in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> You should probably hook up your TWC set top box both ways -- HDMI and Component. Then you can pick whichever is working better for you. Use Optical or Coax Digital Audio cabling with Component video. There appears to be some improvement in Component input in the D2v compared to my D2. I've now switched to using Component from my Comcast box.
> 
> 
> The Component 480i to "anything else" transition bug is indeed fixed in the V2.04 firmware.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you. Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16041294
> 
> 
> I think I understand your concerns, but as I toggled between the screens for the 2 ARC graphs, the one ARC set at 60hz and the one I changed to 45hz, the subwoofer chart remained identical.
> 
> I'm not sure what you were saying about the rears and surrounds, so I will try to include the graphs with this message.
> 
> BTW what is the improvement/drawbacks with ARC2.1 compared to 2.0.3?
> 
> If there aren't any problems I may upgrade and 'auto-detect' and then rerun these latest measurements and see if there are any difference in the x-overs that ARC sets.
> 
> As always, thanks for your help Bob.
> 
> Tom



I don't think there are any functional changes between ARC V2.1 and "test" ARC V2.0.3. I believe they just recompiled it for the production release (i.e., they changed the version number). There is one new bug fix for the installer itself.


------------------------------------------


What did ARC Upload as the crossover value for your subwoofer? Check that in the Setup > Speaker Calibration > Movie or Music menu. It may be different from the "cutoff" value shown in the Targets window. See if ARC Uploads a different crossover value for sub for the two solutions you are comparing.


------------------------------------------


Take a look at the Calculated curve for RR and for Sub. From RR you can see that the basic volume level ARC has targeted in your setup is 77dB (the flat part of the Target curve to the right of the room gain hump).


Now ARC has a crossover of 95Hz for LR/RR so they will be rolling off below that. Consider, say 70Hz. Look at how much RR has dropped below the basic volume level by that point. It's about 3dB.


Now look at Sub at 70Hz. It too has rolled off by that point. It's about 4dB below the basic volume level.


That means the combo of the RR and the Sub have a bit of a dip below the basic volume level at 70Hz. That's the gap I'm talking about.


Now a few dB isn't going to make any real difference -- particularly in the Rear surrounds since they probably won't have all that much bass to deal with to begin with. ARC has quite properly concentrated on making the sub work best with your front speakers since they carry the bulk of the content.


Do the same comparison using the charts with ARC's choice of 60Hz crossover for LF/RF. Does the balance of RR with Sub improve at 70Hz in any significant way? If so, then you might want to stick with ARC's original choice. If not, then lowering the LF/RF crossover the way you have done isn't hurting things.


As always, trust your ears. If ARC's original setup sounds better then it *IS* better, despite the fact that the curves look slightly cleaner in your setup with lowered LF/RF crossover.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

A couple of updates.

1. Live Video settings works for me when I power up D2v first.

2. Have tested more hdvds from XA2 and no thumping when pausing, FF or stopping since I swapped out the first hdmi cable for another one.

3. I continue to be amazed at the diff in the sound b/t the AVM50 and or probably the D2 as well. Anyone considering the upgrade, IMHO it is well worth it. I should have done it when I got my AVM50 but my scepticism got in the way.









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/16041699
> 
> 
> RS-232 control of the D2 is nothing short of amazing, BTW. The command set is extensive beyond belief.



For folks who are wondering if this is worth the effort, could you list a few fun things you can do with your RS-232 control setup that would be impossible or impractical to try using the IR remote stuff?

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

Hi Lion,


It's not a shortcoming at all. The Harman paper doesn't state that the subs need to be individually calibrated and the ARC doesn't assume all subs are in the same position. I have 4 JL F113s and used the technique Bob P suggested for optimizing phase using the front left speaker as the target. I checked various phase settings with each sub played in conjunction with the main left speaker for frequencies from 110hz down to 18hz in 3hz increments (it was time consuming) and was able to get all 4 subs working well. I then applied ARC. When you look at the measured and target responses there wasn't a huge discrepancy. This is what is expected by using 4 subs. I doubt it would be any easier or more useful to have individual control of each sub through the Anthem ARC.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheLion* /forum/post/16040838
> 
> 
> Dear Bob,
> 
> 
> first of all thank you very much for all your kind advice here. You are THE reason I consider a D2v as an upgrade option for my existing Genelec/Onkyo 886 setup.
> 
> 
> There is ONE thing that is actually holding me back right now - it is the way ARC treats subwoofer calibration.
> 
> 
> To think that anybody serious about this hobby and willing to invest ~$7500 in a pre/pro is using ONE subwoofer or at least a set of subwoofers in ONE single location is rather unlikely. I for one choose to employ 4 different subwoofer locations in my dedicated room (following Harman's white paper all at mid-wall points).
> 
> 
> What I am looking for and what I expect of such an expensive and able unit as the D2v is the capability to calibrate/correct at the very least TWO independent subwoofer channels/locations - preferably four. Multiple subwoofer locations are by all means a requirement of "good" and even (across a whole listening area) bass response in just about any room/setup.
> 
> 
> Now on to my question - is Anthem aware of this (IMHO) very serious shortcoming and furthermore are they working on an ARC upgrade including this essential feature?
> 
> 
> Otherwise this is such a well executed device and I sincerely hope Anthem will continue to be successful with it.
> 
> 
> Thank you very much and greetings from good old Europe!


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16041862
> 
> 
> For folks who are wondering if this is worth the effort, could you list a few fun things you can do with your RS-232 control setup that would be impossible or impractical to try using the IR remote stuff?
> 
> --Bob



Sure.


1.) The ability to have the D2 turn on at an exact set volume (no jarring the kids out of bed at night).


2.) I have a caller ID box send a string to the Anthem which displays the caller ID of a call when it comes in (pretty cool in practice.)


3.) Sending a string of text to the D2 that's displayed on the screen saying that the doorbell is ringing (mine then switches to the front or back door camera on the screen.)


4.) Increase or decrease volume by any set amount of dB per button push on your remote control. (1.5dB per push, for example.)


5.) Mute and unmute headphones.


6.) Show status of zones on OSD.


7.) Show exactly which modes are set on OSD.


8.) Set secondary inputs reliably with a single command (e.g. TV2, etc...)


9.) Set tuner to exact frequency of station (e.g. 107.9).


10.) Set triggers by command. Can be used to lower screen blankers, turn off projector, turn on popcorn maker, I guess virtually anything just limited by your creativity and knowledge of relays.


11.) Set front display intensity directly.


12.) Set video resolutions directly with a single command.


13.) Set video calibration levels, listener position distances, speaker configuration settings directly (don't use these, but amazing that they are in the command set.)


14.) Set wakeup times for the unit for weekdays or weekends (anyone want to use their D2 for an alarm clock??) This can be done independently for zone 1, zone 2, and zone 3.


15.) Get the current time displayed on the OSD.


16.) Set maximum volume levels so that your teenagers don't blow out your speakers.


17.) Set scaler output of a specific source to panorama, anamorphic stretch, letter box, zoom, bypass.


Now I know that many of these can be accomplished by going into the setups menus, going down several screens and setting the function. But being able to make maintenance screens with a number of these functions enabled would be an incredible time saver.


Also, you could use your D2 to check the time, see who's at the door, turn on your projector, put down the screen blanking curtains, etc... All via RS-232 control.


It's easily the most extensive RS-232 control set I've seen on any component. There is a learning curve to using RS-232 commands, but it's not rocket science.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^Good stuff. Thanks!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I think it's been a while since I last gushed about this product. In any event, I feel the irresistible urge to do it again!



Oh Lordy does this D2v look and sound good!


It is simply, amazingly wonderful!





































There. I feel better now.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

And I thought I was gushing







I went from an AVM 50 to a D2v. Is there a font large enough for that difference









John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16041736
> 
> 
> 
> What did ARC Upload as the crossover value for your subwoofer? Check that in the Setup > Speaker Calibration > Movie or Music menu. It may be different from the "cutoff" value shown in the Targets window. See if ARC Uploads a different crossover value for sub for the two solutions you are comparing.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Do the same comparison using the charts with ARC's choice of 60Hz crossover for LF/RF. Does the balance of RR with Sub improve at 70Hz in any significant way? If so, then you might want to stick with ARC's original choice. If not, then lowering the LF/RF crossover the way you have done isn't hurting things.
> 
> 
> As always, trust your ears. If ARC's original setup sounds better then it *IS* better, despite the fact that the curves look slightly cleaner in your setup with lowered LF/RF crossover.
> 
> --Bob



For the ARC left at 60hz, it chose 60hz sub x-over for both movies and music. For the ARC solution that I forced a 45hz x-over on the fronts, it set the sub x-over for movies at 60hz, and 45hz for music. The speaker and sub levels were the same for all speakers in both solutions, movies and music.

I could see no differences in the charts other than the calculation for the fronts(green line) were closer to the target(blue line). The charts for all the other speakers appeared to be virtually the same.

So I decided to listen and trust my ears.

I uploaded the solution I had changed the Front x-over to 45hz and listened to a reference cd and the bass was boomy and muddy. Not good. A definite drop in audio quality.

I then uploaded the solution ARC had chosen and it was much better. Actually its excellent! We may need to link this thread to a thesaurus to keep finding superlatives for ARC.

I don't know if it was the lowering of the sub x-over to 45hz in the music because I had forced a lower x-over for my fronts, or if it affected the room correction parameters, or what







, but it didn't sound nearly as good as the solution ARC had chosen.

I should note that I also the 'max eq freqency' to 20k for both solutions. This is the one setting that I routinely change for all my ARC's since about ARC1.2x.

Anyway, now its time to stop tweaking and enjoy.









Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16043140
> 
> 
> For the ARC left at 60hz, it chose 60hz sub x-over for both movies and music. For the ARC solution that I forced a 45hz x-over on the fronts, it set the sub x-over for movies at 60hz, and 45hz for music. The speaker and sub levels were the same for all speakers in both solutions, movies and music.
> 
> I could see no differences in the charts other than the calculation for the fronts(green line) were closer to the target(blue line). The charts for all the other speakers appeared to be virtually the same.
> 
> So I decided to listen and trust my ears.
> 
> I uploaded the solution I had changed the Front x-over to 45hz and listened to a reference cd and the bass was boomy and muddy. Not good. A definite drop in audio quality.
> 
> I then uploaded the solution ARC had chosen and it was much better. Actually its excellent! We may need to link this thread to a thesaurus to keep finding superlatives for ARC.
> 
> I don't know if it was the lowering of the sub x-over to 45hz in the music because I had forced a lower x-over for my fronts, or if it affected the room correction parameters, or what
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but it didn't sound nearly as good as the solution ARC had chosen.
> 
> I should note that I also the 'max eq freqency' to 20k for both solutions. This is the one setting that I routinely change for all my ARC's since about ARC1.2x.
> 
> Anyway, now its time to stop tweaking and enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



I'm actually surprised you found such an obvious downgrade in audio quality for the version where you manually lowered the LF/RF crossovers.


I suspect what's going on here is that ARC really wanted to lower the sub crossover to match but couldn't do so due to the need to keep it up there to support the steered bass from the Rears. I presume you had no rears in your Music configuration.


--------------------------------------------


Anyway, the residual error in the original solution ARC found for you is, as I said, small enough to be ignored. I think it is wise to go with ARC's solution and declare victory.


If you find a way to improve the low end output of your Rears I suspect ARC may end up producing a new solution closer to the 45Hz LF/RF crossover you found. But really the solution you've got now -- the one ARC picked -- looks good enough. And if it sounds good, that's all that matters.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib

Hello All..


I love the new sound of the ARC, and the bass is crazy for .1 sources, but I find the bass a little lacking when doing just music (without .1 channel in mix) or any speakers that is sent to sub channel..Thus some bass lines in movies that had more impact in past or now week, while others are very good indeed.










I have noticed this issue from the first days of ARC when the Bass was being tinkered with..


I just did testing on 2 totally different systems to confirm my findings that ARC does set the Sub level too low in SPL compared to other channel...

-----------------------------------------------------------

Here is the email sent to anthem with testing:


----------------------------------------------------------

Hello Nick..



Been playing with my SPL meter and my D2V and a buddies D2 with arcs, and the newest ARC. 2.03..



I can now confirm that the BASS is effected via ARC in Level output (not sound quality, which is outstanding bytheway)..



Here is the test I did on his system:


- Set master level so that Left front speaker when set a 0 db, was 75db on SPL meter

- Made sure sub level was 75db at 0db on D2 with final Ref level set above.


Ran the ARC 2.03



Uploaded ARC back to D2



Checked levels with SPL meter:


All levels clocked in at around 75db, except the sub... The arc set the sub output to -4.5 db... On my SPL, it was confirmed that the sub level was indeed around 4db lower than the 75db measured when the level was at 0db before the ARC..


So, I turned up the sub level via SPL meter to get 75 db, and the value was now 0db..



The sound was much fuller for music sources or bass that does not use the .1 channel. (like movies where the bass is steered from other speakers to sub).



NOW...


On my System..


Did all the same steps as above,


After ARC the sub in my system was set to -2.5db when 0db before the ARC was correct..


Again, with SPL meter, all speakers were dead on except the sub, which was around 3db or so lower.. So, I turned up sub level with SPL meter to get same level as Front Left speaker.. Sub is now set to 0db as it should..



Again, for .1 channel on movies bass is crazy good... but any bass steered to sub from other channels is weak until I increase the sub level to my SPL meter..



Note:


With ARC version prior to the Bass tinkering (way back), the overall sound was not as good as now, but the sub levels were set correct... The ARC would set them to 0db and it matched the rest of the speakers..



Hope this helps..


------------------------------------------------------------------



Anyway, love the new ARC sounds, but just some bass was lacking. (again, .1 channel info is just nuts...







)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16038857
> 
> 
> Update on that. It does not stretch everything. Very bizarre.



Do me a favor. Go to a setup where you think your AVM 50 should be producing stretched output of 4:3 content but it isn't.


In Video Source Adjust > Crop Input you should have the Auto setting selected.


In Video Source Adjust > Scale Out you should have the Anamorphic setting selected.


Now, go into Video Source Adjust > Crop Input. I don't know if you are currently using Edges Off or Edges On -- it doesn't matter. What I want you to do is temporarily select the OTHER Edges setting and then go right back to the one you normally use.


Does that make the 4:3 content suddenly become stretched as you want?


--------------------------------------


There is a bug in the V2.04 D2v and AVM 50v firmware that causes the Video Source Adjust menu settings to not be properly applied in certain circumstances when the video input stream changes. I suspect one of the circumstances where this can happen is when the 16:9 vs. 4:3 aspect ratio flag changes in the input video stream. For reasons I do not yet understand, when this bug happens, manually toggling the Edges setting like this causes all the other settings to be properly applied again.


It is possible this bug also exists in the V1.33 firmware you have in your AVM 50.


Let me know what you find. And if you DO find that toggling Edges like this has the effect of making Crop Input > Auto and Scale Out > Anamorphic suddenly do the correct thing with your 4:3 content, please pass on the details to Nick at Anthem.


Understand that if this is what is going on, you will need to toggle Edges like this each time it fails. Of course that's due to the bug. So don't give up if it works once and then fails the next time you switch to 4:3 content. Just try toggling Edges again to see if it is still that same bug.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

maud'dib,

Do you have more than one subwoofer in your setup? If so, make sure your Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie or Music > Subs has "1 Sub" set. This is the the setting you must use with ARC or your levels will be messed up.


However, with this set, doing manual checks in the Setup > Level Calibration menu will produce misleading results for the sub lines unless you only power one of your subs at a time will using that menu.


----------------------------------------


It is not unusual for there to be some difference in SPL as shown using the Setup > Speaker Level calibration tones and the speaker trim that ARC picks. This is because ARC uses a wider frequency range to make its decision than is reflected in the calibration test tones.


In addition, the actual output with ARC turned on is a combo of the volume trim plus the cuts/boosts implemented as part of the room correction stuff.


You may need to check the test you are doing by playing a calibration disc that is generating 2.0 output so that you get to see how the bass tones steer from your mains into the sub with the volume trim ARC has selected compared to what you are using when you raise that.


ETA: Also make sure you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON selected for the sources you are using when you are doing your 2.0 source content bass level tests.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16043506
> 
> 
> maud'dib,
> 
> Do you have more than one subwoofer in your setup? If so, make sure your Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie or Music > Subs has "1 Sub" set. This is the the setting you must use with ARC or your levels will be messed up.
> 
> 
> However, with this set, doing manual checks in the Setup > Level Calibration menu will produce misleading results for the sub lines unless you only power one of your subs at a time will using that menu.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> It is not unusual for there to be some difference in SPL as shown using the Setup > Speaker Level calibration tones and the speaker trim that ARC picks. This is because ARC uses a wider frequency range to make its decision than is reflected in the calibration test tones.
> 
> 
> In addition, the actual output with ARC turned on is a combo of the volume trim plus the cuts/boosts implemented as part of the room correction stuff.
> 
> 
> You may need to check the test you are doing by playing a calibration disc that is generating 2.0 output so that you get to see how the bass tones steer from your mains into the sub with the volume trim ARC has selected compared to what you are using when you raise that.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the quick responce..










For my buddies system he has 1 sub, and my system has 2 subs..


For my system, I first set level with only 1 sub going, then got the level.. Then, shut off that sub, turned on the 2nd sub only, got the same level, then turned on both subs (after making sure the phase was correct when both on) and did the overall level to 75db..


Made sure the Anthem was only set to 1 sub..


Did try a test dvd with 2.0, 5.1, etc, test tones moving from speaker to sepeaker, and the 2.0 did sound a little weak when comparing..


Again, this may be all do what you stated that the ARC sees a wider range, than my SPL meter..










For music anyway, to my ears, the bass sounds more full with the extra volume added to sub level by the 2-3 db boost..


For Fun. tried to turn off the ARC while playing the song, and WOW...ARC was totally awesome...










The bass however with ARC off was like double in volume, but very peaky, and not tight..


BTW,, I have 2 Servo 15's V.2.. so they are naturally tight sounding..


ARC is just Awesome.....


----------



## Bob Pariseau

maud'dib,

I think Nick is going to need the details of the particular test tone discs you used to reproduce this steered bass problem with 2.0 input. He may also need a copy of your ARC results file (not just the captured chart images).


I'm presuming you have firmware V2.03b or later on your D2v. D2v firmware earlier than that had an LFE level bug which would likely screw up your attempts to test this. That wouldn't explain what you are seeing on your friend's original D2 unit of course.


------------------------------------------------


Also do me a favor and make sure all of your temporary level adjustment settings are cleared. These are the ones you can set using the small buttons on the remote around the arrow keys. To clear all of them at once:


1) Save User Settings


2) Reload Factory Defaults


3) Reload Saved User Settings


--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16043349
> 
> 
> Do me a favor. Go to a setup where you think your AVM 50 should be producing stretched output of 4:3 content but it isn't.
> 
> 
> In Video Source Adjust > Crop Input you should have the Auto setting selected.
> 
> 
> In Video Source Adjust > Scale Out you should have the Anamorphic setting selected.
> 
> 
> Now, go into Video Source Adjust > Crop Input. I don't know if you are currently using Edges Off or Edges On -- it doesn't matter. What I want you to do is temporarily select the OTHER Edges setting and then go right back to the one you normally use.
> 
> 
> Does that make the 4:3 content suddenly become stretched as you want?
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> There is a bug in the V2.04 D2v and AVM 50v firmware that causes the Video Source Adjust menu settings to not be properly applied in certain circumstances when the video input stream changes. I suspect one of the circumstances where this can happen is when the 16:9 vs. 4:3 aspect ratio flag changes in the input video stream. For reasons I do not yet understand, when this bug happens, manually toggling the Edges setting like this causes all the other settings to be properly applied again.
> 
> 
> It is possible this bug also exists in the V1.33 firmware you have in your AVM 50.
> 
> 
> Let me know what you find. And if you DO find that toggling Edges like this has the effect of making Crop Input > Auto and Scale Out > Anamorphic suddenly do the correct thing with your 4:3 content, please pass on the details to Nick at Anthem.
> 
> 
> Understand that if this is what is going on, you will need to toggle Edges like this each time it fails. Of course that's due to the bug. So don't give up if it works once and then fails the next time you switch to 4:3 content. Just try toggling Edges again to see if it is still that same bug.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I tried this a few times and didn't experience any positive results either in getting my desired results or in trying to decypher if it might be a bug. I think it is definitely something with the Anthem though.


Today, I tried bypassing the Anthem by routing the PS3 and my SAT receiver directly to the TV. In both instances, the auto stretch feature of the TV worked.


----------



## AbMagFab

Off topic, but does anyone know how you trigger a 12V trigger externally? For example, if I wanted to cause my P5/P2 to go on via my computer, is there some external 12V trigger device?


(I use Z-Wave, so I'd prefer a Z-Wave device, but I can use X10 or Insteon as well.)


(I've asked in the usual places, to no avail - this seems like a simple question.)


Thanks!

-Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16043703
> 
> 
> Off topic, but does anyone know how you trigger a 12V trigger externally? For example, if I wanted to cause my P5/P2 to go on via my computer, is there some external 12V trigger device?
> 
> 
> (I use Z-Wave, so I'd prefer a Z-Wave device, but I can use X10 or Insteon as well.)
> 
> 
> (I've asked in the usual places, to no avail - this seems like a simple question.)
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Mark



If you can figure out a way to control a wall power socket or power strip from your computer then it should take nothing more than going to Radio Shack and purchasing a cheap wall-wart power brick that converts wall power into 12V DC. You don't need anything fancy. The computer turns on the socket and the wall-wart plugged into that socket generates 12V DC which triggers the amp (when suitably attached to the trigger input in the amp).


Not exactly elegant, but it will work.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If anyone is looking for a CD to show off percussion, you can't do much better than looking through the old CD racks for a copy of "Dafos", Reference Recordings, RR-12 CD, which came out on CD in 1990 as I recall.


I particularly recommend track 7, Mickey Hart, "The Gates of Dafos". Be forewarned that at one point in this track they do something very much like dropping a Chevy engine from a high platform onto a concrete floor.


But most of the disc is a lot more delicate -- rain sticks and such. It really is a very good disc for revealing audio performance, as most listeners seem to be particularly sensitive to what can probably only be described as the sensation of airiness around percussion instruments. And any problems in the audio chain will muddy that.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

The drum kit is called "the beast" for a reason! it's an old favourite of mine. After the kit falls over the bass wave it generates is stupendous. Woofer busting stuff.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16044010
> 
> 
> If anyone is looking for a CD to show off percussion, you can't do much better than looking through the old CD racks for a copy of "Dafos", Reference Recordings, RR-12 CD, which came out on CD in 1990 as I recall.
> 
> 
> I particularly recommend track 7, Mickey Hart, "The Gates of Dafos". Be forewarned that at one point in this track they do something very much like dropping a Chevy engine from a high platform onto a concrete floor.
> 
> 
> But most of the disc is a lot more delicate -- rain sticks and such. It really is a very good disc for revealing audio performance, as most listeners seem to be particularly sensitive to what can probably only be described as the sensation of airiness around percussion instruments. And any problems in the audio chain will muddy that.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, just ordered it.


----------



## audioNeil

I have a D1 (and previous to that, an AVM20). My question is, would I be better off upgrading to a D1HDv (or whatever it's going to be called), or get a D2v? A few specific questions will help me.


1) If I can get $3000 Can. for the D1, is it a lot more to get a new D2v compared to the upgrade price?


2) Will the D1 upgrade take an extra year compared to the D2v release?


3) Does the D2v have better sound (upgraded DACS, different analog electronics, etc.) compared to the D1 with upgrade?


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioNeil* /forum/post/16044543
> 
> 
> I have a D1 (and previous to that, an AVM20). My question is, would I be better off upgrading to a D1HDv (or whatever it's going to be called), or get a D2v? A few specific questions will help me.
> 
> 
> 1) If I can get $3000 Can. for the D1, is it a lot more to get a new D2v compared to the upgrade price?
> 
> 
> 2) Will the D1 upgrade take an extra year compared to the D2v release?
> 
> 
> 3) Does the D2v have better sound (upgraded DACS, different analog electronics, etc.) compared to the D1 with upgrade?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



We won't really know until the upgrade pricing is finalized, and it looks like that isn't going to happen until summer.


The DACs are the same in the D2v and the D1. The D2v adds 7.1 channel HDMI input as well as the Dolby Volume feature, but of course you get that as part of the upgrade.


One thing leaning towards the upgrade is that upgrading your D1 to a D2v is probably going to be about the same cost as upgrading a D2 to a D2v since they both need a video board and new DSP board.


On the other hand, getting a new unit means getting a new warranty for everything -- not just the upgraded parts.


I suspect the D1 and D2 upgrades will happen at the same time since the parts and process are so similar. On the other hand a new D2v can be purchased now.


It's a tough piece of calculus.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16043896
> 
> 
> If you can figure out a way to control a wall power socket or power strip from your computer then it should take nothing more than going to Radio Shack and purchasing a cheap wall-wart power brick that converts wall power into 12V DC. You don't need anything fancy. The computer turns on the socket and the wall-wart plugged into that socket generates 12V DC which triggers the amp (when suitably attached to the trigger input in the amp).
> 
> 
> Not exactly elegant, but it will work.
> 
> --Bob



Okay, that makes sense. I'll give that a try to see if it works. (And I'm surprised I didn't come up with that!)


Would be nice is there was simply a 12V trigger that was Z-Wave/X10/Insteon capable, but what you describe will work just fine (Z-Wave triggered outlet -> 12V adapter -> device).


Thanks!


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16041440
> 
> 
> ...and for Exceptional people (hey, we aint called the Cool Kids for nothin'!).
> 
> 
> So think of it as a test. If you can't find the thread you probably shouldn't be here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If we make it a sticky, ANYONE could find it!
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


I did give you that one previously (about Exceptional person that you are).


And I also read your comment previously about Sticky and Normal, plus your preference for the Normal one.


Bob, you are almost too modest!









But you are surely Thee MAN.










Regards,


_____

Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16042328
> 
> 
> I think it's been a while since I last gushed about this product. In any event, I feel the irresistible urge to do it again!
> 
> 
> 
> Oh Lordy does this D2v look and sound good!
> 
> 
> It is simply, amazingly wonderful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There. I feel better now.
> 
> --Bob



Me too.
























____

Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16044010
> 
> 
> If anyone is looking for a CD to show off percussion, you can't do much better than looking through the old CD racks for a copy of "Dafos", Reference Recordings, RR-12 CD, which came out on CD in 1990 as I recall.
> 
> 
> I particularly recommend track 7, Mickey Hart, "The Gates of Dafos". Be forewarned that at one point in this track they do something very much like dropping a Chevy engine from a high platform onto a concrete floor.
> 
> 
> But most of the disc is a lot more delicate -- rain sticks and such. It really is a very good disc for revealing audio performance, as most listeners seem to be particularly sensitive to what can probably only be described as the sensation of airiness around percussion instruments. And any problems in the audio chain will muddy that.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


You are right, this is an excellent CD for percussion.


Here's some other excellent ones:


1. Mickey Hart --> "Planet Drum", 24k gold CD, 20-bit digital mastered, on the Rykodisc label, RCD 80226.

2. Mickey Hart --> " Supralingua", HDCD encoded, 2-disc set, also on Ryko label, RCD 10396.

3. Michael Stearns --> "The Lost World", on Hearts of Space (fathom) label,

HS 11054-2.

4. "The Sheffield Drum & Track Disc", on the Audiophile Reference Series, from

the Sheffield Lab label, 11420-2-F.

5. KODO --> "Heartbeat Drummers of Japan", also on the Audiophile Reference

Series, from also the Sheffield Lab label "Live Studio Recordings", 12222-2-F.

6. Babatunde Olatunji --> "Love Drum Talk", on Cd and SACD, High Resolution

Technology Recording (recorded at 96/24), on Chesky label, CD = WO160.


____ These are only very few examples that everyone should listen to, from my very vast collection of CDs & SACDs.


And to finally terminate with only one title, also from my very vast library of

HD DVDs and Blu-Rays, check out the Blu-Ray of --> "Max Payne". Listen to the Bass coming from your Subwoofer.










If you want more titles for checking your Anthem processor with your loudspeakers, in the Bass region with 5hz recordings, in the Midrange area for the best imaging and clarity, or the Treble region for the best spacious and airy recordings; please, don't hesitate to ask me.









Another excellent label is "Reference Recordings" for extra Dynamic Range of Classical Music.

I only own the very Best, and my collection is quite enormous.










Regards,


_____

Bob


----------



## Montekay

Anyone else noticed this? I know on a previous version of software I would get a loud static burst when skipping tracks on the BPD05FD. With the current version (V1.33) I get a 16 KHz burst and then a thump. I don't know if the D2 is causing it or if the BPD05FD is. Anyone else experienced this?


Monte


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Test of my ARC Setup Using Velodyne Sub's Calibrated Mic*


Maud'dib, you'll find this particularly interesting I think.


My Velodyne subwoofer has a built in EQ system which I have bypassed now that I'm using ARC. But one of the features of this EQ system is that it can generate a sweep tone which is picked up by a specially calibrated mic that plugs directly into the sub. The Velodyne then charts the results and puts that out as S-video for viewing on the display.


The test tone sweep is output as RCA stereo analog audio (the content is in the Left channel). So in the D2v I have a source device set up that uses these stereo RCA jacks as audio input and that plays this 2 channel input in Stereo Mode -- with ARC enabled (Room EQ=ON).


The test tone sweep generated by the Velodyne sub runs from 15Hz to 200Hz. The upshot is that the Left channel of the audio input is driven from well below the LF crossover (thus all output is coming from the subwoofer) to well above the LF crossover (thus all output is coming from the Left Front speaker).


I have my ARC V2.1 results Uploaded (Calculated from Measurements made with ARC V2.0.1.1).


The results are absolutely outstanding -- the best I've seen from doing this test with any prior set of ARC results.


So I can absolutely confirm that the volume trims, crossovers, and room correction settings ARC has Uploaded for my setup are working just fine with this particular 2 channel input. There is no loss of bass.


Purely subjectively, I've also been playing some of my 2 channel sources tonight, and I've not heard any weakness in bass.


---------------------------------------------------


By the way, for other Velodyne owners, another thing that came out of this test tonight is that I've discovered that -- unlike the D2 and AVM 50 -- my new D2v has no trouble whatsoever locking into and scaling the S-video user interface feed from the Velodyne!


So along with everything else, the new video board in the D2v even has smarter S-video inputs!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16045555
> 
> 
> Anyone else noticed this? I know on a previous version of software I would get a loud static burst when skipping tracks on the BPD05FD. With the current version (V1.33) I get a 16 KHz burst and then a thump. I don't know if the D2 is causing it or if the BPD05FD is. Anyone else experienced this?
> 
> 
> Monte



Are you using any audio sync delay settings in the player? There may be garbage in its buffer that gets output when the audio stream stops and starts.


Of course one way to track this down would be to try your player with another pre-pro or AVR.


Also check out the Setup > Source Setup > Muting setting for that input (Section 3.6 of the Manual). Raising that may get you past any garbage the player is generating when you do this chapter skip -- or any other action that interrupts and restarts the audio stream.


I don't recall any particular reports here of problems with this player, and it is certainly not common to get noise like this during chapter skips from other players.


One poster here just reported a case of bass thumping when his HD DVD player was paused that turned out to be a faulty HDMI cable. Very unusual case, that one.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16045604
> 
> *Test of my ARC Setup Using Velodyne Sub's Calibrated Mic*
> 
> 
> Maud'dib, you'll find this particularly interesting I think.
> 
> 
> My Velodyne subwoofer has a built in EQ system which I have bypassed now that I'm using ARC. But one of the features of this EQ system is that it can generate a sweep tone which is picked up by a specially calibrated mic that plugs directly into the sub. The Velodyne then charts the results and puts that out as S-video for viewing on the display.
> 
> 
> The test tone sweep is output as RCA stereo analog audio (the content is in the Left channel). So in the D2v I have a source device set up that uses these stereo RCA jacks as audio input and that plays this 2 channel input in Stereo Mode -- with ARC enabled (Room EQ=ON).
> 
> 
> The test tone sweep generated by the Velodyne sub runs from 15Hz to 200Hz. The upshot is that the Left channel of the audio input is driven from well below the LF crossover (thus all output is coming from the subwoofer) to well above the LF crossover (thus all output is coming from the Left Front speaker).
> 
> 
> I have my ARC V2.1 results Uploaded (Calculated from Measurements made with ARC V2.0.1.1).
> 
> 
> The results are absolutely outstanding -- the best I've seen from doing this test with any prior set of ARC results.
> 
> 
> So I can absolutely confirm that the volume trims, crossovers, and room correction settings ARC has Uploaded for my setup are working just fine with this particular 2 channel input. There is no loss of bass.
> 
> 
> Purely subjectively, I've also been playing some of my 2 channel sources tonight, and I've not heard any weakness in bass.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> By the way, for other Velodyne owners, another thing that came out of this test tonight is that I've discovered that -- unlike the D2 and AVM 50 -- my new D2v has no trouble whatsoever locking into and scaling the S-video user interface feed from the Velodyne!
> 
> 
> So along with everything else, the new video board in the D2v even has smarter S-video inputs!
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.. and very interesting...

















Good to know what the ARC is doing the right stuff..










Do you think that maybe my current testing with ARC measurements with 2.03 are maybe causing this weirdness?


The only other readings I have are from my 2.01ARC, and get the same results on my system..


Maybe 2.0.1.1 is better??



Thanks for the great info and testing..


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16045555
> 
> 
> Anyone else noticed this? I know on a previous version of software I would get a loud static burst when skipping tracks on the BPD05FD. With the current version (V1.33) I get a 16 KHz burst and then a thump. I don't know if the D2 is causing it or if the BPD05FD is. Anyone else experienced this?
> 
> 
> Monte




With this blu-ray player I installed for one of my customers with a yamaha rxv-3900, he was getting a snap/boom sound everytime we skipped tracks, etc..


Just updated the pioneer to newest firmware, and think that fixed the issue with the yamaha..


Maybe, the fix firmware is still a little flaky with other pre-amps..



See what Nick thinks, and let us know..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

maud'dib,

I just had another thought. One big difference between 2 channel input and multi-channel input is that all of the bass in 2 channel is being played both by the sub and the main speaker (in the crossover region).


So a perception of weak bass for 2 channel may be due to your sub being out of phase with the main speakers so the two of them are partially canceling each other through the crossover region.


With multi-channel, the LFE content is just going to the sub, so there's no chance of phase cancellation with the same audio coming from a main speaker. (There will be similar audio coming from the main speakers -- but not the same.)


---------------------------------------------


Since you have two subs, the way to deal with this is to separately phase match each sub (only one of them powered at a time) with your LF speaker. When the two subs are individually phase matched to LF, then they are also phase matched to each other.


Since you have more than one sub, you will need to re-Measure for ARC after making any changes in their internal phase settings. That's because ARC hears the pair of them together, and thus it hears their relative phasing.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16045668
> 
> 
> maud'dib,
> 
> I just had another thought. One big difference between 2 channel input and multi-channel input is that all of the bass in 2 channel is being played both by the sub and the main speaker (in the crossover region).
> 
> 
> So a perception of weak bass for 2 channel may be due to your sub being out of phase with the main speakers so the two of them are partially canceling each other through the crossover region.
> 
> 
> With multi-channel, the LFE content is just going to the sub, so there's no chance of phase cancellation with the same audio coming from a main speaker. (There will be similar audio coming from the main speakers -- but not the same.)
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Since you have two subs, the way to deal with this is to separately phase match each sub (only one of them powered at a time) with your LF speaker. When the two subs are individually phase matched to LF, then they are also phase matched to each other.
> 
> 
> Since you have more than one sub, you will need to re-Measure for ARC after making any changes in their internal phase settings. That's because ARC hears the pair of them together, and thus it hears their relative phasing.
> 
> --Bob



Interesting...










I thought my subs were in phase with main speakers, but has been a long time since I checked them..


I know that with each other they are in phase, as, if I reverse the phase on one of the subs, I get really weak bass..


I will have to check this..



Why do you think my buddies house was getting the same issues? He has 1 sub, and I confirmed on his system that the sub is in phase with fronts...



Just strange..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16045657
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.. and very interesting...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good to know what the ARC is doing the right stuff..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think that maybe my current testing with ARC measurements with 2.03 are maybe causing this weirdness?
> 
> 
> The only other readings I have are from my 2.01ARC, and get the same results on my system..
> 
> 
> Maybe 2.0.1.1 is better??
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the great info and testing..



I think your Measurements with ARC V2.0.3 are fine. Understand that ARC Measurement doesn't know whether you are going to play multi-channel or 2 channel stuff. Since your multi-channel is working right, then your Measurements are right.


I suspect your SPL results are just confusion with respect to what those Setup > Level Calibration tones actually do compared to what ARC does. So I'm not too worried by those results.


What's more worrisome is that you are seeing SPL problems playing calibration test tracks, and also in your subjective impression that 2 channel input is weak in bass.


See my post above regarding possible Phase errors in your sub setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16045677
> 
> 
> Interesting...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought my subs were in phase with main speakers, but has been a long time since I checked them..
> 
> 
> I know that with each other they are in phase, as, if I reverse the phase on one of the subs, I get really weak bass..
> 
> 
> I will have to check this..
> 
> 
> 
> Why do you think my buddies house was getting the same issues? He has 1 sub, and I confirmed on his system that the sub is in phase with fronts...
> 
> 
> 
> Just strange..



Did you play test tracks on his system, or are you basing this purely on SPL results measured with Setup > Level Calibration. If the latter, then I think it is just confusion about what those test tones reveal -- as we discussed earlier, ARC uses a wider frequency range and its output is also adjusted by the room correction processing.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16045685
> 
> 
> I think your Measurements with ARC V2.0.3 are fine. Understand that ARC Measurement doesn't know whether you are going to play multi-channel or 2 channel stuff. Since your multi-channel is working right, then your Measurements are right.
> 
> 
> I suspect your SPL results are just confusion with respect to what those Setup > Level Calibration tones actually do compared to what ARC does. So I'm not too worried by those results.
> 
> 
> What's more worrisome is that you are seeing SPL problems playing calibration test tracks, and also in your subjective impression that 2 channel input is weak in bass.
> 
> 
> See my post above regarding possible Phase errors in your sub setup.
> 
> --Bob




You bring up a good question... When playing the internal test tone on the D2V, are we hearing the ARC do it's magic, or just the RAW tones?



Question for you..


On your system, if you play a 2 channel music selection, and cycle the EQ on/off, do you get a major difference in bass SPL?


Just want to see if others have this weird issue..


Also, noticed still, that when cycling from Music to Move speaker config (in input when music is playing), I will get a BOOM noise from the sub..


Same is true if playing music, and going to test tones page, and manually selecting the sub, will get a boom noise/or pop sound..


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16045696
> 
> 
> Did you play test tracks on his system, or are you basing this purely on SPL results measured with Setup > Level Calibration. If the latter, then I think it is just confusion about what those test tones reveal -- as we discussed earlier, ARC uses a wider frequency range and its output is also adjusted by the room correction processing.
> 
> --Bob



At his house, we mainly did by SPL and ears..


All sounded great (bass was good, but, missing some deep qualities as of being a little too low. The main speakers were kind of taking over for the bass..)


Maybe i'm just use to the old uncontrolled sound for bass (excitement factor)..










I remember that ARC version 1.2.10 had very, very strong bass, and adjusted my subs level to a positive number, as compared to now with a negative number. Sounded very nice for all bass notes, but, the quality was nowhere near like the current..


Just cool to see the differences with ARC..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16045702
> 
> 
> You bring up a good question... When playing the internal test tone on the D2V, are we hearing the ARC do it's magic, or just the RAW tones?
> 
> 
> 
> Question for you..
> 
> 
> On your system, if you play a 2 channel music selection, and cycle the EQ on/off, do you get a major difference in bass SPL?
> 
> 
> Just want to see if others have this weird issue..
> 
> 
> Also, noticed still, that when cycling from Music to Move speaker config (in input when music is playing), I will get a BOOM noise from the sub..
> 
> 
> Same is true if playing music, and going to test tones page, and manually selecting the sub, will get a boom noise/or pop sound..



The test tones are raw tones, independent of the main volume setting and of ARC processing. For non ARC users, they are also independent of things like the Center speaker EQ setting. Their frequency range is limited so that they are not affected by crossover settings. I'm pretty sure they bypass the Room Resonance Filter as well. The "2 subs" setting lowers the test tone for the subwoofer to account for the added output of the second sub, but that's about it.


The difference in bass (when playing normal content) from turning Room EQ OFF depends on how much correction ARC had to do. I.e., what you would expect is that your bass output would move from the green Calculated curve back to the red Measured curve.


If ARC is implementing a lot of "cut" in your bass to bring Measured down to Calculated then turning Room EQ OFF would naturally result in more bass output.


In my case, ARC doesn't have to do much cutting of the uncorrected output of my sub, so there's not that much raw level difference. Here's the ARC chart from my ARC V2.0.1.1 Measurement.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16045728
> 
> 
> The test tones are raw tones, independent of the main volume setting and of ARC processing. For non ARC users, they are also independent of things like the Center speaker EQ setting. Their frequency range is limited so that they are not affected by crossover settings. I'm pretty sure they bypass the Room Resonance Filter as well. The "2 subs" setting lowers the test tone for the subwoofer to account for the added output of the second sub, but that's about it.
> 
> 
> The difference in bass (when playing normal content) from turning Room EQ OFF depends on how much correction ARC had to do. I.e., what you would expect is that your bass output would move from the green Calculated curve back to the red Measured curve.
> 
> 
> If ARC is implementing a lot of "cut" in your bass to bring Measured down to Calculated then turning Room EQ OFF would naturally result in more bass output.
> 
> 
> In my case, ARC doesn't have to do much cutting of the uncorrected output of my sub, so there's not that much raw level difference. Here's the ARC chart from my ARC V2.0.1.1 Measurement.
> 
> --Bob



Can you have a look at my graphs and let me know what you think..


Thanks..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16045751
> 
> 
> Can you have a look at my graphs and let me know what you think..
> 
> 
> Thanks..



Well yeah! Your sub itself doesn't need much correction but look how much the other speakers need to be cut in the crossover region and below!


I would expect turning ARC off and then playing any normal content or test tracks that involve any of the main speakers would give the perception of much higher bass -- and that would be confirmed by SPL measurements from test tracks played through the main speakers.


Just look at the red Measured curves for LF/RF and C around 60Hz. RF is right off the chart!


The Setup > Level Calibration tones for LF/RF won't include frequencies that low, so these peaks won't show up in your SPL readings using those tones. But ARC sees them and has to deal with them.


I wouldn't be surprised if ARC had to put up a negative volume trim for LF/RF to help cut them down a bit before the room correction stuff did its thing.


And then ARC may have had to put in a negative volume trim for your sub as well to rebalance it with the newly adjusted levels for LF/RF.


Your speakers are giving ARC a pretty significant challenge. I'm not surprised you've seen more difference between the various ARC releases compared to what others are seeing. But this is just the sort of challenging bass problem the new ARC is supposed to excel at. So I think the odds are your current ARC solution is the most correct of all.


I'm pleasantly surprised with how well ARC is handling your speakers. The only significant residual errors are in LR/RR -- and even they are not that bad below 7KHz. I think ARC just ran out of resources given all the rest of the correction it had to do.

--Bob


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

Wow ,

i just ordered an avm 50 !!!

To go along with the mca 50 , studio 100's , cc 690 , adp 590's , sub 15 all ariving this week , can' wait .

Then i saw this link i am a little , no a lot , overwhelmed by it all . Is this piece of equipment fairly user friendly ? I am told it is a great piece ? First real venture into new equipment , in 15 years . All my pioneer elite still works , but hay, 15 years is alot of years . Thanks in advance


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16045633
> 
> 
> Are you using any audio sync delay settings in the player? There may be garbage in its buffer that gets output when the audio stream stops and starts.
> 
> 
> Of course one way to track this down would be to try your player with another pre-pro or AVR.
> 
> 
> Also check out the Setup > Source Setup > Muting setting for that input (Section 3.6 of the Manual). Raising that may get you past any garbage the player is generating when you do this chapter skip -- or any other action that interrupts and restarts the audio stream.
> 
> 
> I don't recall any particular reports here of problems with this player, and it is certainly not common to get noise like this during chapter skips from other players.
> 
> 
> One poster here just reported a case of bass thumping when his HD DVD player was paused that turned out to be a faulty HDMI cable. Very unusual case, that one.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the suggestions.


I just tried increasing the mute from medium to maximum with no effect. I also have discovered that it is only in the right channel so I'm not sure what that means.


I think the scariest part is the fact I can't hear the 16 KHz before the thump except with the left ear and then only when close to the tweeter. It measures pretty loud on ARTA and a female friend seems to think it's deafeningly loud. So I don't know what's up with the hearing but maybe I better start wearing ear plugs for skydiving. Maybe that 120 mph wind noise is taking it's toll.


Given that the problem is only in the right channel concerns me. Seems like something may be wrong with something. I would think that if it were just in need of a firmware update it would be in both channels.


When I have time I'll pull the AVM20 HD (AVM50 minus ARC capable) out of the down stairs system and try it in the theatre and see if the problem goes away. If so there might be something wrong with the D2. Hopefully that's not the case.


Monte


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/16045938
> 
> 
> Wow ,
> 
> i just ordered an avm 50 !!!
> 
> To go along with the mca 50 , studio 100's , cc 690 , adp 590's , sub 15 all ariving this week , can' wait .
> 
> Then i saw this link i am a little , no a lot , overwhelmed by it all . Is this piece of equipment fairly user friendly ? I am told it is a great piece ? First real venture into new equipment , in 15 years . All my pioneer elite still works , but hay, 15 years is alot of years . Thanks in advance



Congratulations! And welcome.


Getting started can be a bit daunting as there appear to be no end of choices to make.


But it's really not that bad.


The default settings in the Anthem are intelligently chosen, so you can concentrate on the things you have to set up first.


In fact the Setup menu is even organized in the proper order to tackle things. So for example, the first thing you tackle is getting video up on your display so that it is easier to see and navigate through the menus.


Spending some time getting familiar with the Manual is a good idea of course. Also check out the first post of this thread where you will find many links to instructive posts in the thread. I call that collection of links, "The Good Parts Version"!


Did you buy an AVM 50 (the original design)? Or did you buy the new AVM 50v? In either case the way to download the user Manual is to go to Anthem's public download page:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html 


There's a link on that page you can use to download the Manual for the original AVM 50 model. If instead you have purchased the new AVM 50v, there is not a direct link for its Manual yet, so what you do is download the link for the ARC-1 installer also found on that page. That will get you a Zip file. When you un-Zip that file you will end up with a folder, and inside that folder you will find a collection of Manuals including the Manual for the new AVM 50v.


So do some reading, and start planning out in your mind how you want your unit set up. There are lots of folks here who've been through this so you'll find lots of help here if you need to ask questions.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16045993
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions.
> 
> 
> I just tried increasing the mute from medium to maximum with no effect. I also have discovered that it is only in the right channel so I'm not sure what that means.
> 
> 
> I think the scariest part is the fact I can't hear the 16 KHz before the thump except with the left ear and then only when close to the tweeter. It measures pretty loud on ARTA and a female friend seems to think it's deafeningly loud. So I don't know what's up with the hearing but maybe I better start wearing ear plugs for skydiving. Maybe that 120 mph wind noise is taking it's toll.
> 
> 
> Given that the problem is only in the right channel concerns me. Seems like something may be wrong with something. I would think that if it were just in need of a firmware update it would be in both channels.
> 
> 
> When I have time I'll pull the AVM20 HD (AVM50 minus ARC capable) out of the down stairs system and try it in the theatre and see if the problem goes away. If so there might be something wrong with the D2. Hopefully that's not the case.
> 
> 
> Monte



See if you can hear the problem in headphones. If so, it might be easier to take the player to the AVM 20 HD and try it with headphones there rather than hooking the AVM 20 HD into the rest of your D2 setup.


If you are not hearing it with other HDMI sources whenever the audio stream is interrupted (e.g., changing TV channels) then the odds are the problem is in the player.

--Bob


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16041449
> 
> 
> You could also put it in your signature: The D2 user without a shadow.
> 
> --Bob



GREAT idea!


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16046001
> 
> 
> See if you can hear the problem in headphones. If so, it might be easier to take the player to the AVM 20 HD and try it with headphones there rather than hooking the AVM 20 HD into the rest of your D2 setup.
> 
> 
> If you are not hearing it with other HDMI sources whenever the audio stream is interrupted (e.g., changing TV channels) then the odds are the problem is in the player.
> 
> --Bob



Yeap, it's definitely in the player. I'll check for updates on it's firmware and if that doesn't do it I'll call the dealer.


Update: Version 1.25 on the BDP05FD resolved the problem.


thanks for the help,

Monte


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16045823
> 
> 
> Well yeah! Your sub itself doesn't need much correction but look how much the other speakers need to be cut in the crossover region and below!
> 
> 
> I would expect turning ARC off and then playing any normal content or test tracks that involve any of the main speakers would give the perception of much higher bass -- and that would be confirmed by SPL measurements from test tracks played through the main speakers.
> 
> 
> Just look at the red Measured curves for LF/RF and C around 60Hz. RF is right off the chart!
> 
> 
> The Setup > Level Calibration tones for LF/RF won't include frequencies that low, so these peaks won't show up in your SPL readings using those tones. But ARC sees them and has to deal with them.
> 
> 
> I wouldn't be surprised if ARC had to put up a negative volume trim for LF/RF to help cut them down a bit before the room correction stuff did its thing.
> 
> 
> And then ARC may have had to put in a negative volume trim for your sub as well to rebalance it with the newly adjusted levels for LF/RF.
> 
> 
> Your speakers are giving ARC a pretty significant challenge. I'm not surprised you've seen more difference between the various ARC releases compared to what others are seeing. But this is just the sort of challenging bass problem the new ARC is supposed to excel at. So I think the odds are your current ARC solution is the most correct of all.
> 
> 
> I'm pleasantly surprised with how well ARC is handling your speakers. The only significant residual errors are in LR/RR -- and even they are not that bad below 7KHz. I think ARC just ran out of resources given all the rest of the correction it had to do.
> 
> --Bob



Yea, my room kind of sucks for that bass region..










Just glad ARC came out, as I never heard my system sound so good as now..










As for levels, I did notice that arc made the LF set to +1db, and the RF to +2db, and all other speakers were in positive values, but sub was the weird one. It was set to -2db..



I tried for fun, to tell ARC to use only 80hz for all speakers and 20000hz, and the end result was a little deeper bass..



Thanks for looking at the graphs











The very weird part is that my buddies house had much flatter measured graphs before ARC, and he had similar decrease in bass as me..



Oh well..


----------



## thestewman

Bob P


Has the new D2v improved or remedied the occasional loss of HDMI handshake problem with your Comcast Motorola DVR ?


Stew


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/16047348
> 
> 
> Bob P
> 
> 
> Has the new D2v improved or remedied the occasional loss of HDMI handshake problem with your Comcast Motorola DVR ?
> 
> 
> Stew



It seems better. Not as good as the HDMI code they put out for test last summer, but better.


However Component input from my Comcast box is now so good with the D2v that I've switched to that and only use HDMI when testing things.


I believe they are still working on incorporating that new HDMI code from last summer for both the D2 and the D2v. It is tougher with the D2v due to the dual outputs.

--Bob


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

Thank you , bob , i will . It seems that every time i post on the boards i get lots of positive input and feed back it will help , as i said it has been 15 yrs . A life time in this arena . OH I BELIEVE IT WILL BE THE NEWEST VERSION OF THE AVM 50 , I WILL CHECK . BERT


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Playing an HDMI Audio Source with the Display Turned Off*


The D2v will correctly play HDMI audio input with the display turned off. If you select the source and then turn off the display there will be a couple seconds of no audio while the HDMI handshake re-cycles. Tested with the Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player.


This is improved behavior over the D2 where to do this you had to be sure to turn off the display BEFORE selecting the HDMI audio source.


If you selected the source first and then turned off the display, the audio would mute and never return.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16039143
> 
> 
> Well, I just finished watching Transporter 3. This movie has some good scenes to really test your subwoofer such as when the car crashes through the house and especially the scene when the ambulance explodes. When the ambulance exploded, my subwoofer pressurized my listening room so much that it felt like it was taking my breath away a little. It was so strong and filling that my wife asked me to replay that scene and come sit on the main level of our house with her. She had a bottle of water on the table. When the scene replayed, of course I felt it on the main level; but, the water in the bottle was moving. She then asked me if I had the volume on my subwoofer turned all the way up. I just smiled and said no, it's only on 7. She couldn't believe it; but, it was true. The volume, on my DD18, was only set on 7. The bass was just so tight, clean, and quick. I was a little nervous at first because I have never had it fill my room to the point where it felt like it was about to take my breath away. I don't know what Anthem did with this version of ARC; but, I can say that I truly love it. Man, how much more improvement can they do with ARC?



I'm glad you posted this info










I watched it tonight but before I got to the GOOD SCENES









I turned the Sub Woofer Channel down by 6db.


Since ARC 2011 - the LFE output has been much better - but

a bit too HOT in my Theater.


Even 6db down was a BIG WOW


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16050754
> 
> 
> I'm glad you posted this info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I watched it tonight but before I got to the GOOD SCENES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned the Sub Woofer Channel down by 6db.
> 
> 
> Since ARC 2011 - the LFE output has been much better - but
> 
> a bit too HOT in my Theater.
> 
> 
> Even 6db down was a BIG WOW



Remember that you can lower just the LFE without also lowering the steered bass. Press the Setup button twice on the remote to get to that adjustment.


Quite obviously some of these tracks have been mixed in the expectation that folks are using home theaters that don't bounce as much as yours does!

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16050851
> 
> 
> Remember that you can lower just the LFE without also lowering the steered bass. Press the Setup button twice on the remote to get to that adjustment.
> 
> 
> --Bob



THAT is what I did










I have been TRAINED by Bob Pariseau, Inc.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick at Anthem tells me that posting the new V2.04 firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v units on a public download page is awaiting the arrival of the new D2v and AVM 50v web pages. I have no ETA on that.


He has also asked again that the password to the password protected download page not be published here on AVS. It's no big secret, but he just doesn't want it out in so public a fashion -- so that he doesn't have to change it for the next cycle of Beta software releases and mess up the folks who already have it.


So if you have one of the initial D2v or AVM 50v units that came with firmware V2.00 or V2.02 factory installed you will need to email Anthem tech support for the access info to the password protected download page. Again, this is no big deal. They are expecting such requests.


Firmware V2.04 really is worth the effort.


-----------------------------------------------------


I notice that ARC V2.1 has also not been put up on the public download pages. I'm hoping this means the new D2v and AVM 50v pages are about to be released and that this new ARC download will be included on those.

--Bob


----------



## audiman

I have an anthem D2. Can i install the latest software (1.33) without the ARC software ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/16053665
> 
> 
> I have an anthem D2. Can i install the latest software (1.33) without the ARC software ?



Yes. V1.33 is the firmware that goes into the D2 itself. It is for all D2 users, whether or not you also use ARC.


The ARC application software (for ARC users) gets installed on a Windows PC that is used during ARC setup. It uploads data into the D2 that is used by the V1.33 firmware. If you don't have ARC, the V1.33 firmware just runs with the ARC processing disabled.


If you have a D2 and you are not already on firmware V1.33, I strongly recommend that you update to V1.33. Be sure to follow the instructions that are displayed by the installer when you run it (exit out of the installer if you haven't completed the preliminary steps). In particular you need to do a Reload Factory Defaults before the install -- you can Save User Settings before the install and Reload Saved User Settings after the install. And you need to make sure you have no powered HDMI source or display connections during the install. Since HDMI plugs are delicate, rather than disconnecting HDMI I suggest you remove wall power from everything in your system other than the Anthem and the computer you are using to do the install.


NOTE: Many HDMI devices leave their HDMI sockets powered even though the device appears to be turned off.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Update*


Nick now tells me he thinks the new, public download links will be live later today.


ETA: It is starting to happen. The AVM 50v "official" V2.04 firmware and Manual just appeared on the AVM public download page.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k

As usual Bob Pariseau Inc has made an official announcment which supercedes this. Read below


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2v and AVM 50v Firmware V2.04 is Now "Official"!*


Pubic download links are now available for the new, "official", V2.04 release of firmware for the Anthem Statement D2v and Anthem AVM 50v processors.


Updated versions of the owners Manual for the D2v and AVM 50v are also available for download.

*************************************************************


I really can't recommend strongly enough that you should do this update!


All D2v and AVM 50v owners should update to V2.04 at the first opportunity. Please note that due to substantial bug fixes since the initial, V2.00, firmware, you should plan on redoing both your video and audio calibration setup after installing V2.04.


*************************************************************


For D2v owners, see the links along the bottom of this page:

http://statement.anthemav.com/ 


For AVM 50v owners, see the AVM 50v links on this page:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html 


The Read Me file for the V2.xx firmware releases now includes change notes that read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.04:
> 
> 
> 1. Various audio, video, and HDCP/HDMI changes to add stability.
> 
> 
> 2. Separate controls for mosquito and block noise reduction.
> 
> 
> 3. Fixes for audio processing bugs including test signals, downmixing, LFE level, and 7.1-channel 24/192 support.
> 
> 
> 4. Fixes for video processing bugs including deep color output, grayscale, and 480i to 1080i component input change.
> 
> 
> 5. Various minor display changes for status and video processing.
> 
> 
> 6. Frame Lock is disabled as Inverse Telecine will replace it in future software.
> 
> 
> 7. Zoom removed from video processing since cropping input is the better way to achieve zoom.
> 
> 
> VIDEO PROCESSOR SETTINGS WILL BE LOST when this version is installed unless v2.02b or later is now in the processor - write down your changes to the video menu (the press and hold "7" key colorful one) and re-enter them after the update.
> 
> 
> 
> Known issue:
> 
> 
> 1. LFE is redirected incorrectly if surrounds or rears are set to Large and sub is None.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.02:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for audio dropouts with PCM input.
> 
> 
> 2. Fix for ARC test sweeps.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.00 D2v / v2.01 AVM 50v:
> 
> 
> Initial releases.




Be sure to read and follow the installation instructions found in the Read Me file and also displayed by the installer when you start it. If you have not completed the preliminary steps, exit out of the installer. In particular you must do a Reload Factory Defaults before the install -- you can use Save User Settings before the install and Reload Saved User Settings after the install to restore your Setup menu settings.


In addition, make sure you have no powered HDMI connections during the install. Please note that many HDMI source and display devices leave their HDMI sockets powered even though the device is turned off. Since HDMI plugs are delicate, I recommend you simply remove wall power from everything else in your system except for the Anthem and the computer you are using for the install.


IMPORTANT NOTE: As stated in the Read Me file, you will lose the settings in the Video Source Adjust menu if you are updating from firmware older than V2.02b. To be safe, write down your Video Source Adjust menu settings (view content from each source in turn, press and hold the "7" key to bring up the menu, and jot down the settings in each panel of the menu). Then you can re-enter them manually after the install. The ARC V2.0.1 and later install kits include a utility program called Live Video Settings Editor that can also be used to save and restore Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file. However there have been recent reports of folks having trouble getting the settings to transfer correctly that way, so even if you do use Live Video Settings Editor, make a written copy "just in case".


Although it is not supposed to be necessary to do so, my personal practice is to also reload my ARC data after a firmware install. Open your latest ARC results file in Advanced mode and just do a new Upload. Check your Setup menu settings after the Upload to make sure everything looks OK. Then Save User and/or Installer Settings to be sure you have the latest ARC Setup menu settings properly captured in those memories.


There are enough bug fixes between V2.04 and the original V2.00 and V2.02 releases that I also recommend you set aside some time to do a new set of ARC Measurements. However you may want to hold off on that just a bit as the new ARC V2.1 version is also just about to become "official". Might as well use that one for your new Measurements!



NOTE: Firmware for the original D2 and AVM 50 units remains at V1.33. A V1.34 firmware release is in the works. I don't yet have an ETA for that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2v V2.04 firmware installer now up on the public link is identical to the one that was on the password protected page. So if you already have that one from the password page, there's no need to download and install this one.


The D2v Manual on the public page appears to be identical to the March 6 version of the Manual found in recent ARC install kits downloadable from the password protected page. Same number of pages and byte count. But the change date is updated so you might want to nab the public version just to be sure you have the latest version. Note that the Frame Lock feature is still described in this Manual, even though that feature is disabled in the V2.04 firmware. The upcoming Dolby Volume features are not yet described.


The D2v download page above also includes a download link for a new product brochure from Anthem which includes product info on the new D2v. The "real" web page info for the new D2v is not up yet.


ETA: The same holds true for the AVM 50v stuff. The V2.04 firmware installer is identical to what was on the password protected download page over the weekend, the Manual appears to be different only as regards the last change date, and there is a new product line brochure available for download.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*UPDATE*


Nick tells me that the public release of "official" ARC V2.1 is in progress as we speak.


Once again, ARC V2.1 is for *ALL* units that support ARC -- not just the new D2v and AVM 50v units.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/16054139
> 
> 
> As usual Bob Pariseau Inc has made an official announcment which supercedes this. Read below



Don't be shy about posting stuff if you spot it before I can compose my own post on the matter. Multiple pairs of eyes tracking this stuff is good!










--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16054432
> 
> *UPDATE*
> 
> 
> Nick tells me that the public release of "official" ARC V2.1 is in progress as we speak.



I was hoping this said "Nick tells me all orders have shipped..."


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^How much good news can you STAND in one day?









--Bob


----------



## flavorguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16054275
> 
> 
> The D2v V2.04 firmware installer now up on the public link is identical to the one that was on the password protected page. So if you already have that one from the password page, there's no need to download and install this one.
> 
> 
> ETA: The same holds true for the AVM 50v stuff. The V2.04 firmware installer is identical to what was on the password protected download page over the weekend, the Manual appears to be different only as regards the last change date, and there is a new product line brochure available for download.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - Is there any difference between 2.04 and 2.03d?....


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16054868
> 
> 
> ^^How much good news can you STAND in one day?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



When it comes to our orders being shipped..... try me!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I note that the AVM 40 (and below) have been dropped from Anthem's product line brochure. More confirmation that the AVM 40 has been discontinued.


There are also updated D2v and AVM 50v beauty shots in the brochure. The Front Panel photo shows the Dolby Volume logo. The Rear Panel photo no longer identifies these units as "v.2" (the old nomenclature).


The brochure is deliberately vague about the power setup -- apparently so that the same brochure can be used in all markets. There is no mention of the "high voltage" model, but there is also nothing that precludes it.


The specs for the "high voltage" model can still be found in the Specifications section of the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/16055185
> 
> 
> Bob - Is there any difference between 2.04 and 2.03d?....



I'm not sure about that. The release notes say it was just a rebuild for production -- i.e., all that changed was the version number. [There was also a bug fix in the installer itself, but that doesn't alter the firmware that gets installed.]


However, whenever you recompile software there's a chance for something new to appear -- either intentionally or by accident. So I can't be certain they didn't slip another bug fix in under the radar.


If you are on V2.03d now, I would recommend you go to V2.04, but there's no screaming rush to do so.


CORRECTION: The "bug fix in the installer" mentioned above was made in the *ARC* installer as part of the transition from "test" ARC V2.0.3 to "official" ARC V2.1.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I upgraded to both v2.04 and ARC 2.1. I took new measurements, everything went perfect. Upload time was much quicker. On the downside the Live Video Settings Editor does not work for me, upload or download, manual power on or not.


I played a few of my reference recordings, absolutely stunning!!!


----------



## jayray

Nick told me that the official versions of ARC and firmware for the D2v were no diff from the test versions and that I did not need to install them.

John


----------



## CycloneMike

FYI - those looking to order 8" HDMI port savers monoprice.com now has them back in stock after being out for over a month. I ordered 10 of them....


This is not an advertisement - just information for other Anthem product owners who have been waiting, as I have, for the port savers to be restocked.


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16055632
> 
> 
> Nick told me that the official versions of ARC and firmware for the D2v were no diff from the test versions and that I did not need to install them.
> 
> John



John, just to be clear did you ask him about "test" V2.03d vs. "official" V2.04 firmware, or did you ask about "test" V2.04 vs. "official" V2.04?


For ARC did you ask about "test" V2.0.3 vs. "official" V2.1, or did you ask about "test" V2.1 vs. "official" V2.1?

--Bob


----------



## BillW

Anthem is now saying they have run out of an IC chip they need for the processor (due to the high demand of the v series) and the next run is not for a few weeks. They are projecting orders placed after Feb 15th will not start shipping until around April 17th.


The upgrade will not be available until about June 1st. No pricing on the upgrade yet either.


----------



## The Bogg

Is ARC 2.1 online (other than in password folder)? I just checked and didn't see it there.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/16055736
> 
> 
> Anthem is now saying they have run out of an IC chip they need for the processor (due to the high demand of the v series) and the next run is not for a few weeks. They are projecting orders placed after Feb 15th will not start shipping until around April 17th.
> 
> 
> The upgrade will not be available until about June 1st. No pricing on the upgrade yet either.



Yes. From Nick: Orders placed up through 2/15 should be filled on or before 4/17. Orders placed after 2/15 should be filled within 45 to 60 days after Anthem receives the order.


This amounts to about a 1 month glitch compared to their original backlog.


Note, we know of at least one poster who got a shipment confirmation this week, so some units are still trickling out.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/16055754
> 
> 
> Is ARC 2.1 online (other than in password folder)? I just checked and didn't see it there.



Not yet. Nick tells me it is in process to appear today. I presume they are going through cleanup details such as updating the release notes, latest manuals, any updates to the utility programs, etc.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16055837
> 
> 
> Note, we know of at least one poster who got a shipment confirmation this week, so some units are still trickling out.
> 
> --Bob



Who is he so I can live vicariously though him


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16055863
> 
> 
> Who is he so I can live vicariously though him



If we gave you that information Anthem would have to pay double to insure their shipments!










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The distributor who was posting the Anthem Backorder Reports on line has taken that link off his web page.


The link itself is still live, however...










Anyway, I just checked and it still brings up the now, outdated report from March 2.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16050754
> 
> 
> I'm glad you posted this info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I watched it tonight but before I got to the GOOD SCENES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned the Sub Woofer Channel down by 6db.
> 
> 
> Since ARC 2011 - the LFE output has been much better - but
> 
> a bit too HOT in my Theater.
> 
> 
> Even 6db down was a BIG WOW



With my setup, which now includes a second DD 18







, it was almost breath taking literally. I can just imagine how it was with your set up which includes 6 subs right? I'm glad you enjoyed it.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16055891
> 
> 
> If we gave you that information Anthem would have to pay double to insure their shipments!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



You caught me


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16055863
> 
> 
> who is he so i can live vicariously though him:d



I feel special now!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16056095
> 
> 
> With my setup, which now includes a second DD 18
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , it was almost breath taking literally. I can just imagine how it was with your set up which includes 6 subs right? I'm glad you enjoyed it.



RIGHT

6 Subs that go all the way to 2Hz and NEED 20,000 Watts

to Drive them. I saw the Power Meters HIT the 20KW mark

WITHOUT Clipping. I'm glad I cranked it down 6db. Distortion

at these levels is very nasty.


I only have 4KW for the Other 6 Channels - NON-LFE Speakers


I don't usually sit there and watch the power meters - but thanks

to your warning - I knew it was coming so I watched them. The

Person in the seat next to me BOUNCED off the Ceiling










I have a Crestron Control System and the Touchscreen is between

the two front row seats. In many cases - I have to HOLD IT to stop

it from falling on the floor.


I love this HOBBY


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You should franchise this setup to Disney as a theme park ride...










--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16055690
> 
> 
> John, just to be clear did you ask him about "test" V2.03d vs. "official" V2.04 firmware, or did you ask about "test" V2.04 vs. "official" V2.04?
> 
> 
> For ARC did you ask about "test" V2.0.3 vs. "official" V2.1, or did you ask about "test" V2.1 vs. "official" V2.1?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I asked about the test versions 2.03d for firmware and 2.0.3 for ARC. He said there wasn't anything in the final version that was diff., from a performance point of view, from the final test versions.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16056271
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I asked about the test versions 2.03d for firmware and 2.0.3 for ARC. He said there wasn't anything in the final version that was diff., from a performance point of view, from the final test versions.
> 
> John



Good to know. Thanks!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Still no sign of "official" ARC V2.1. I don't know the reason for the delay.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16055635
> 
> 
> FYI - those looking to order 8" HDMI port savers monoprice.com now has them back in stock after being out for over a month. I ordered 10 of them....
> 
> 
> This is not an advertisement - just information for other Anthem product owners who have been waiting, as I have, for the port savers to be restocked.
> 
> 
> Mike



Thanks for the heads-up.

Tom


----------



## MStanic

I now have absolutely no sound from my D2V for no apparent reason. Picture shows okay but no sound from any source. I have tried resetting factory defaults but no sound even after I reload my saved user settings. I have been running firmware 2.03b for 3 weeks now with no problem. Not sure what's up. Any ideas please?


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Hey Bob,


Due to some serious computer issues (virus's the ultimately lead to reinstalling my operating system) I'm finally ready to download and then upload ARC version v2.0.1.


The question I have is should I install the original version of ARC that shipped with my D2 and _then_ download and run v2.0.1 or can I just download v2.0.1 and go from there?


Thanks!


No upgrade till June!










Well I guess I'll have to _live_ with the D2 till then!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/16057698
> 
> 
> I now have absolutely no sound from my D2V for no apparent reason. Picture shows okay but no sound from any source. I have tried resetting factory defaults but no sound even after I reload my saved user settings. I have been running firmware 2.03b for 3 weeks now with no problem. Not sure what's up. Any ideas please?



If you are using Triggers to turn on your amps, go into Setup and double check that they are still enabled.


We've had a few reports here where Triggers mysteriously got turned off.


Also visually verify that your amps are on if you can.


Assuming the amps are on, try using the built-in test tones from Setup > Level Calibration. Select Manual test mode in the first line then scroll down to get test tones.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16057844
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> Due to some serious computer issues (virus's the ultimately lead to reinstalling my operating system) I'm finally ready to download and then upload ARC version v2.0.1.
> 
> 
> The question I have is should I install the original version of ARC that shipped with my D2 and _then_ download and run v2.0.1 or can I just download v2.0.1 and go from there?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> No upgrade till June!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I guess I'll have to _live_ with the D2 till then!



There's an even newer version of ARC that's just about to come out. It was supposed to be out tonight, but didn't make it for some reason. So probably tomorrow. It is ARC V2.1.


If you have access to the password protected download page you can get that now. Otherwise I suggest you wait until it shows up on the public download page -- probably tomorrow.


Download the ARC V2.1 stuff. UnZip it and you will end up with a folder. Go into that folder and find the installer application itself -- named "Setup".


Now insert your original ARC install CD for your D2. If the ARC installer pops up when you insert the CD just exit from it.


Now go into the CD and find your pair of licensing/calibration files. These will be the two files with names made up of numbers -- the serial number of your D2 and the serial number of your ARC mic.


Copy those 2 files from the CD into the ARC V2.1 install folder -- the same one where the Setup installer program is located.


You are now done with the original ARC CD and can eject it.


Then run the Setup program in the ARC V2.1 install folder. It will install ARC V2.1 and also copy your two licensing/calibration files to the right place.


That's it!

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

Bob,


The AMPS are on and I tried test tones but no sound. Going to reload V2.03b to see what happens.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/16057939
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> The AMPS are on and I tried test tones but no sound. Going to reload V2.03b to see what happens.



That's a good idea. Actually since you are reloading firmware anyway, I suggest you go straight to V2.04.


The fact that you can't get the calibration test tones to play is not good news.


There were a few bugs in the operation of the Setup > Level Calibration menu but they were fixed by firmware V2.03b. And there's not really anything you can set wrong that will keep those tones from playing.


Go into Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie and Music and make sure your correct set of speakers are enabled.


If the firmware re-install doesn't do it for you, you'll need to call Anthem tech support in the morning. It looks like you have a hardware failure.


--------------------------------------------


One other thing to try. Get your original Anthem remote and press the Main button in the upper left to select the Main Path.


It is possible, particularly if you are using a programmable remote, that somehow you have powered up just a different Path -- e.g. Zone 2 -- and that's why your main speakers are not active.


Press Volume Up/Down to see which path is being controlled by the remote at the moment.

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

Thanks for your help. Where can i get V2.04. Can I reload my saved settings from V2.03b after I load V2.04.


Still no sound, not even from test tones, after reloading V2.03b firmware successfully. Go figure. All else seems to be okay as far as video and settings...just no sound.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/16058021
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help. Where can i get V2.04. Can I reload my saved settings from V2.03b after I load V2.04.



See this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post16054178 


--Bob


----------



## xtrips

yesterday, I loaded ARC 2.1 and remeasured.
Then I sat to listen to my music profile, 2 speakers only.
The beauty of the sound, I was in awe
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

*I LOVE MY D2*


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My word! I think I heard that from here!










--Bob


----------



## MStanic












What a real bummer. No sound from my D2V all of a sudden. Nothing I tried fixed it including going to V2.04. My dealer is calling Anthem now and I'm hoping for a replacement unit asap. I talked to Anthem and they pretty much said that it appears to be a bad DSP board.


Oh well, things happen but they happen to me. My previous D2 went up in smoke (bad capacitors on some I was told) and Anthem replaced it. I also had a 9BSST go dead on one channel which Bryston fixed/repaired and it's flawless since (again, bad capacitors I was told).


These are very expensive electronics and it's difficult to swallow when things go awry; particularly, when my $30 Sony Dream Machine (clock radio) is still ticking after numerous years of service.


Glad to see everyone is enjoying the sound they are hearing. Thanks for your advice/help Bob...much appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/16061179
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a real bummer. No sound from my D2V all of a sudden. Nothing I tried fixed it including going to V2.04. My dealer is calling Anthem now and I'm hoping for a replacement unit asap. I talked to Anthem and they pretty much said that it appears to be a bad DSP board.
> 
> 
> Oh well, things happen but they happen to me. My previous D2 went up in smoke (bad capacitors on some I was told) and Anthem replaced it. I also had a 9BSST go dead on one channel which Bryston fixed/repaired and it's flawless since (again, bad capacitors I was told).
> 
> 
> These are very expensive electronics and it's difficult to swallow when things go awry; particularly, when my $30 Sony Dream Machine (clock radio) is still ticking after numerous years of service.
> 
> 
> Glad to see everyone is enjoying the sound they are hearing. Thanks for your advice/help Bob...much appreciated.



Sounds like you just had a run of bad luck. It happens. But one thing you might want to do is investigate the quality of your wall power.


If you are having repeated surges or low voltage events, that will be harder on electronics. You may be able to rent a power monitor with a recording chart that you can use to track that for a while.


Also check how things coming in from the outside (e.g., cable/satellite feeds) are grounded before they get into your building. Poor grounding can allow garbage from outside the house to get into your system traveling along the shields of the cable feeds and then hopping from device to device via the shields of the wires connecting them.


Finally, if you have any unusually power hungry devices in your house -- big motors, arc wielders, or whatever -- consider whether those things or your theater electronics might be better placed on a dedicated circuit.


Again, the device failures you've had could just be coincidence. But it wouldn't hurt to do a modest amount of investigating just to be sure.


Most failures of electronics happen within the first 90 days of use. In the electronics products biz this is termed infant mortality. (This is why even cheap products usually come with a 90 day warranty.) Your D2v is new, obviously. If your other failures happened while the products were new, that is, of course, a big nuisance, but it is a lot less worrying than if they happened after that point. Failures between 6 months and 1 year should typically send you checking for some external cause such as bad power, or poor ventilation allowing the products to overheat.


----------------------------------------------


By the way, I presume you've already done something to verify it really is the D2v that got fried and not your power amp, right? Plugged some other line level source into the power amp?

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

As Bob points out be wary of your power. In addition to proper grounding of your external feeds such as cable and satellite make sure your house electrical service itself is properly grounded. I was recently bit by my house ground going bad. I lost three whole house surge suppressors an APC and a Panamax power conditioner, our electric clothes dryer and numerous small strip suppressors.


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16061933
> 
> 
> As Bob points out be wary of your power. In addition to proper grounding of your external feeds such as cable and satellite make sure your house electrical service itself is properly grounded. I was recently bit by my house ground going bad. I lost three whole house surge suppressors an APC and a Panamax power conditioner, our electric clothes dryer and numerous small strip suppressors.



was this problem propagated by a lightening strike, componded by a bad ground, or - just how can all these bad things happen from a faulty ground, only, going bad?









walt


----------



## The Bogg

What the heck is going on with the release of the ARC 2.1? If it ain't online by the time I get home then someone at Anthem is gonna get the Jedi mind trick.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Maybe they sent everyone to the factory floor to assemble new units for shipment?










Seriously, I don't know what the delay is. But updates usually come out in the late afternoon after they got done with the more pressing business of the morning -- i.e., dealing with customer calls and emails.


It's also possible that they found a problem and are awaiting a fix. We know that Live Video Settings Editor has a problem for example, and it's part of the ARC install kit.

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645

It's a real nice day up here and they are all out on the picnic tables.


----------



## lalarsons

The ARC update is released.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/16063160
> 
> 
> The ARC update is released.



Correct! Details to follow.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*ARC V2.1 is Now Official!*


Anthem has just posted public download links for the new ARC V2.1! The download kit is the same regardless of which link you use. You can find it in the Statement products portion of their web site here:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


And in in the AVM products portion of their web site here:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html 


The Read Me text file contains release notes for the V2.x ARC releases (changes since ARC V1.2.5) which now read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.1:
> 
> 
> 1. Improved gain matching for frequencies above max EQ frequency.
> 
> 
> 2. Improvement to calculation procedure to improve accuracy of filters and speed of calculation. If opening an older file, re-calculate and re-upload to obtain the improvements.
> 
> 
> 3. Repaired the "repair" option that appears in the software installation wizard.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.0.1:
> 
> 
> 1. Added ARC to D2v and AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> 2. Change to how sub crossover frequency is selected to address cases where the sub is a lot closer to the listener than the center channel, causing dialog to be heard from the sub if its crossover was set high enough.
> 
> 
> 3. More settings available for configurations not using a subwoofer. Note that while the front channels will be set to Large in the setup menu, ARC will still create a low frequency contour on the room correction target based on response at those frequencies. This cutoff frequency, displayed in the Targets panel, is separate from the bass manager's crossover.
> 
> 
> 4. The Targets panel also has options for setting the processor's bass manager to run channels at full range. These are best left unchecked, especially for surround channels since surround speakers are usually smaller.
> 
> 
> 5. Selecting Rears for measurement is not allowed if Surrounds are unselected. (In a 5.1 system use Surround channels, not Rears.)
> 
> 
> 6. Improved measurement at very low frequencies. Since this relates to frequencies below the lowest note on a bass guitar, it may not make a difference depending on existing in-room response.
> 
> 
> 7. Improved measurement at very high frequencies.
> 
> 
> If you have a file measured with ARC v1.2 to v1.2.5, remeasurement is not necessary. To convert the file format just open the file with the latest version of ARC, calculate, and upload. If you are uploading a file created for an AVM 40, AVM 50, D1, or D2 to an AVM 50v or D2v, ARC will ask for confirmation that you want to convert the file for use with the newer model.




Please note that ARC V2.1 is for *ALL* Anthem units that support ARC, not just for the new D2v and AVM 50v. D2 and AVM 50 owners should pair ARC V2.1 with firmware V1.33. D2v and AVM 50v owners should pair ARC V2.1 with firmware V2.04.


CAUTION: Before Uploading a new ARC setup, make sure you have your current settings stashed in Saved User and/or Installer Settings.


The release notes say you can use Measurement files as old as V1.2.5 if you want. To do so, I recommend you open the file in ARC Advanced mode, go into the Targets window, do an Auto Detect to allow the new ARC to re-evaluate your old Measurements and pick new Target values. Then make any changes you like in the Target values -- e.g., raising the Max EQ Frequency value -- and accept that set of Targets, which will also dismiss the Targets window.


Then re-Calculate and Upload the new results. After the Upload, go into your Setup menu and verify that things look correct -- i.e., you have not been bitten by the rare bug that causes Setup menu values to revert to Factory Defaults. If all looks correct, then be sure to Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the values ARC has Uploaded into those memories.


[NOTE: If you find your Setup menu has reverted, don't panic. This is easy to fix. Power cycle your Anthem to get things back to a fresh state (use the rear panel power switch). Then Reload Saved User Settings -- using the Front Panel to navigate if you don't have video. Then open your new ARC results file in Advanced mode and do the Upload again. We've had no reports of this failing more than once for anybody. If things now look good, then Save User and/or Installer Settings as suggested above.]


Although you can indeed use old Measurements -- and that's certainly a good way to start -- my personal recommendation is that you set aside some time to do a new set of Measurements with ARC V2.1 if for no other reason than to capture any subtle changes in your listening room since you last did a Measurement pass.


We have had outstanding feedback here from the folks who have tested this new version of ARC prior to its "official" release today. The release notes really are too modest about the improvement. Bass extension into the subsonics is improved, and the clarity of high frequencies is also improved -- particularly for folks who are raising the Max EQ Frequency target value as we have discussed many times.


I recommend that every ARC user upgrade to ARC V2.1 at the first opportunity.


NOTE: There are no changes in the ARC application itself, the included manuals, or the included utilities from the "test" V2.1 and V2.03 versions previously posted on the password protected download page. So if you already have one of those you are good to go. The V2.1 version does include one new fix in the ARC application installer for Windows itself compared to "test" V2.03. So nabbing a copy of the V2.1 install kit is good for future use in case you ever need to re-install. But there are no changes in the stuff actually installed, so you don't need to do anything with the newer installer now. In particular the Utilities folder still includes the same version of Live Video Settings Editor -- so no fix yet for folks who are having trouble making Get operations work in that version.


NOTE 2: If you are updating from any ARC version older than V1.2, be aware that the location in Windows to which stuff gets installed has changed, and thus you need to do a little bit of extra work to make sure your pair of licensing/calibration files gets to the new location. Read the instructions towards the end of the Read Me text file included in the ARC V2.1 install kit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just a reminder that there are *fresh cookies* available to the first posters who confirm a newly delivered D2v or AVM 50v came with firmware V2.04 or later factory installed, or came with ARC V2.1 or later on the bundled ARC install CD!


To earn your cookie, power up the new unit and press Select once to view the firmware version installed by the factory. Or install ARC on your Windows PC from the bundled ARC install CD, then run ARC in Advanced mode and choose the About item from the Help menu to view the ARC version number.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16063504
> 
> 
> Just a reminder that there are *fresh cookies* available to the first posters who confirm a newly delivered D2v or AVM 50v came with firmware V2.04 or later factory installed, or came with ARC V2.1 or later on the bundled ARC install CD!



Chocolate chip?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In the Utilities folder of the ARC V2.1 install kit there is a text file for Settings Editor which has a recent change date.


In reality this text file should probably have just been deleted. Most of the comments in it refer to a now obsolete utility which was actually called Setup Editor and which used to provide the ability to edit the Setup menu settings from the PC.


Setup Editor's most common use for owners was as a tool for backing up the Setup menu settings to a PC file, and as such it has now been replaced by the new Settings Backup utility which is so trivial to use it doesn't need any instructions.


This text file does contain some useful notes on how to make sure your Serial port connection is set up correctly and that's probably why it is still included, but most of the comments in there about transferring copies of settings without editing them are no longer relevant. In particular, those warnings do not refer to the completely separate Live Video Settings Editor utility which is used for manipulating the Video Source Adjust menu settings. There are a few lines about Live Video Settings editor at the very start of that text file, but again, you can pretty much just ignore this text file.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16063625
> 
> 
> Chocolate chip?



Secret family recipe!

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/16062247
> 
> 
> was this problem propagated by a lightening strike, componded by a bad ground, or - just how can all these bad things happen from a faulty ground, only, going bad?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> walt



We are not 100% sure, it may have been one phase going on the dryer or another 220 circuit that had corroded and may have shorted. In any case losing the house ground can be ugly.


Back on topic ARC 2.1


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've completed my new Measurements with firmware V2.04 and ARC V2.1 and so far it sounds great!


I did the process over from scratch and discovered that the Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level setting that results in a 75dB SPL has changed from the last time I checked. The value I had been using was +2dB, and the correct value now is -2dB. I suspect this came in with the V2.03b "test" firmware when the LFE level bug was fixed, as it was about that point that I noticed ARC now using 79dB as the basic volume level in my solution instead of 75dB.


ARC, this time, settled on a Room Gain that is 1dB less than my previous results. I wonder whether some of that might be influenced by getting the basic level back down to 75dB?


The Uploaded crossovers match the Target "cutoffs" shown below except for the subwoofer crossover, which was Uploaded as 70Hz for both Movie and Music. ARC also decided to reduce my Music subwoofer by an additional 0.5dB compared to Movie. I suspect that is due to the fact that ARC found a slightly smaller Room Gain in the Music configuration without the Center speaker -- and thus there's a slightly smaller hump at the peak of the sub output.


So far I haven't heard any difference from the 1dB lower Room Gain. It all sounds good and the bass transition through the crossover region sounds as good as before.


Here are the charts for this setup -- calculated at 20KHz Max EQ Frequency target. The only residual error is in the Center speaker near the crossover -- due to a stubborn response dip. But the error is even smaller this time than in my last result, and I'm not going to worry further about an error this small, particularly with everything sounding so good!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I had another success doing a Get of my Video Source Adjust menu settings using Live Video Settings Editor this evening.


What I did was:


1) Reboot the Windows PC. Log in and wait for things to settle down.


2) Power up the D2v. Wait for that to complete.


3) Launch Live Video Settings Editor. Accept the baud rate and the fact that it has found the Anthem.


4) Do the Get operation.


This is two times in a row this procedure has worked for me. I don't know if it is coincidence or if there is something crucial going on here in terms of the state of the serial connection, the Anthem, and the utility program when the Get operation is started.

--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16063504
> 
> 
> Just a reminder that there are *fresh cookies* available to the first posters who confirm a newly delivered D2v or AVM 50v came with firmware V2.04 or later factory installed, or came with ARC V2.1 or later on the bundled ARC install CD!
> 
> 
> To earn your cookie, power up the new unit and press Select once to view the firmware version installed by the factory. Or install ARC on your Windows PC from the bundled ARC install CD, then run ARC in Advanced mode and choose the About item from the Help menu to view the ARC version number.
> 
> --Bob



Just fresh cookies?









About some fresh music software to go with it?


----------



## xtrips

Hello Bob,


2 days ago I installed ARC 2.1 and remeasured.

As I have written about it yesterday it did great things with my stereo (2CH) music profile.

But last night I decided to test the movie profile and watched "The Dark Knight".

In some loud scenes I had loud pops coming out from my main and center speakers. Frightening as my speakers are more like Audiophiles speakers, not sono monsters.

So I quickly lowered the volume in order to prevent any damage.

What would your course of action be?


Thanks


----------



## MStanic

Folks, thanks for the feedback.


As far as the Bryston 9BSST, it failed with one channel that would heat up extensively and then just shut down. When Bryston repaired it, they acknowledged that it was a known issue with some of these AMPS being constructed with bad capacitors. No problems since it was fixed about 2 years ago.


When my previous D2 went up in smoke, not like Armagedon or anything, Anthem replaced it with a new one and also indicated that this had occurred with some units due to bad capacitors again.


Therefore, the two problems above should not be related and I don't believe my wiring/electrical is an issue. I do have these components on a dedicated circuit so they should be getting optimal power. Nonetheless, these are good points and I appreciate the feedback.


As far as my unit goes, I am pursuing getting it replaced with a brand new one. I don't feel that it's right to get my unit repaired since it's quite new and I paid for brand new. Time will tell, but I'm so jealous now with ARC 2.1 and ALL. What a downer


----------



## The Bogg

I remember getting a panicky call at work from my brother saying that my "stereo was on fire". It was a group of "faulty" capacitors in the Anthem, which was a D1 then. I didn't get a new unit, they just replaced the faulty caps. [email protected] happens, it's the service after it happens that matters imho.


----------



## chexi1

Please correct me if I am wrong, but the Anthem AVM 50, D2, 50v and D2v2 do NOT have a Color Management System, correct? I had previously thought they did and was going to go that route and kill several birds with one stone, but from my research, while they do have quite a bit of video tweakability, I do not think they have a CMS, correct?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chexi1* /forum/post/16068492
> 
> 
> Please correct me if I am wrong, but the Anthem AVM 50, D2, 50v and D2v2 do NOT have a Color Management System, correct? I had previously thought they did and was going to go that route and kill several birds with one stone, but from my research, while they do have quite a bit of video tweakability, I do not think they have a CMS, correct?



It depends just how much you are looking for.


The Anthems do not provide a built in test and adjust system -- i.e., something that works automatically with a light sensor connected directly to the Anthem. But they do have tools that you can use with your own light sensor.


For example the Anthems have built in gray scale and RGB color step charts that you can measure with your own light sensor to adjust the color ramps using tools in your display. These are independent of any source device.


In addition the Anthems have the ability to load their own custom Gamma correction curves -- either a single gray scale curve or separate RGB curves. The curves are built using the Live Video Settings Editor program -- a free utility program that runs on a Windows computer and connects to the Anthem via serial cable during setup and uploading of the results. It can be downloaded by going to the Anthem public download pages and downloading the ARC V2.1 install kit. LVSE is in the Utilities folder in that kit. Once you build and upload custom curves you can select them from the Anthem's Setup menu when you want to engage them.


There is also a simpler, gray scale, "exponential" Gamma correction adjustment that can be set in the Anthem without having to load custom curves.


The idea is to use the built in test charts, and LVSE as necessary, to get the Anthem's video output adjusted to what works best for your display. It is then the Anthem's job to convert all video sources into that one style of output.


Video source input levels can also be further refined on a source by source basis -- e.g., blacks, whites, colors, sharpness.


--------------------------------------


The Anthem also handles color space conversion automatically. E.g. Studio or Extended RGB source to YCbCr display, or YCbCr SDTV color space source to YCbCr HDTV color space display.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/16067757
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> 2 days ago I installed ARC 2.1 and remeasured.
> 
> As I have written about it yesterday it did great things with my stereo (2CH) music profile.
> 
> But last night I decided to test the movie profile and watched "The Dark Knight".
> 
> In some loud scenes I had loud pops coming out from my main and center speakers. Frightening as my speakers are more like Audiophiles speakers, not sono monsters.
> 
> So I quickly lowered the volume in order to prevent any damage.
> 
> What would your course of action be?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I take it you've previously played that disc in that same player so you know it is not a player or disc problem, correct?


In that case, email Anthem tech support. Attach a copy of your ARC results file -- not just screen captures of the charts. Anthem can extract a lot more information from the results file than is shown on the charts.


I suspect that, while the engineers are looking at your file, their first suggestion will be that you re-install your firmware and re-Upload your ARC V2.1 results just to be sure nothing got corrupted in those.


Did you make any changes to ARC's chosen Target values other than adjusting the Max EQ Frequency target for Movie/Music?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16067690
> 
> 
> Just fresh cookies?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About some fresh music software to go with it?



Just cookies. But what cookies!









--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/16068348
> 
> 
> As far as my unit goes, I am pursuing getting it replaced with a brand new one. I don't feel that it's right to get my unit repaired since it's quite new and I paid for brand new. Time will tell, but I'm so jealous now with ARC 2.1 and ALL. What a downer



I have a failed HDMI out and my unit is being replaced for new (if they had any stock......







) without any discussion. Anthem *immediately* offered. Repair wasn't even mentioned.


You should be fine.........


----------



## chexi4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16069256
> 
> 
> It depends just how much you are looking for.
> 
> 
> The Anthems do not provide a built in test and adjust system -- i.e., something that works automatically with a light sensor connected directly to the Anthem. But they do have tools that you can use with your own light sensor.
> 
> 
> For example the Anthems have built in gray scale and RGB color step charts that you can measure with your own light sensor to adjust the color ramps using tools in your display. These are independent of any source device.
> 
> 
> In addition the Anthems have the ability to load their own custom Gamma correction curves -- either a single gray scale curve or separate RGB curves. The curves are built using the Live Video Settings Editor program -- a free utility program that runs on a Windows computer and connects to the Anthem via serial cable during setup and uploading of the results. It can be downloaded by going to the Anthem public download pages and downloading the ARC V2.1 install kit. LVSE is in the Utilities folder in that kit. Once you build and upload custom curves you can select them from the Anthem's Setup menu when you want to engage them.
> 
> 
> There is also a simpler, gray scale, "exponential" Gamma correction adjustment that can be set in the Anthem without having to load custom curves.
> 
> 
> The idea is to use the built in test charts, and LVSE as necessary, to get the Anthem's video output adjusted to what works best for your display. It is then the Anthem's job to convert all video sources into that one style of output.
> 
> 
> Video source input levels can also be further refined on a source by source basis -- e.g., blacks, whites, colors, sharpness.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The Anthem also handles color space conversion automatically. E.g. Studio or Extended RGB source to YCbCr display, or YCbCr SDTV color space source to YCbCr HDTV color space display.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thank you for the very thoughtful and comprehensive reply. The Anthem sounds pretty powerful. What I am looking for is something that can (via professional calibration) fix the color gamut of my Pioneer FPJ1/RS-2 projector. Since the scaler in the pj is already a Gennum VXP, I do not want to spend the $4k for the Lumagen just for the color correction. I already have an Anthem AVM30 that I was going to upgrade to get HDMI and the new audio formats anyway (either the AVM50 upgrade or, if available, the AVM50v). I thought it would be great to get the added benefit of a CMS in the process that could rein in the expanded color gamut of my new pj. I seem to recall a lot of RS-1 owners using the Statement D2 and loving the combo, I just can't remember if this fixed the color or just allowed those happy users to do V-stretch.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chexi4* /forum/post/16069684
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thank you for the very thoughtful and comprehensive reply. The Anthem sounds pretty powerful. What I am looking for is something that can (via professional calibration) fix the color gamut of my Pioneer FPJ1/RS-2 projector. Since the scaler in the pj is already a Gennum VXP, I do not want to spend the $4k for the Lumagen just for the color correction. I already have an Anthem AVM30 that I was going to upgrade to get HDMI and the new audio formats anyway (either the AVM50 upgrade or, if available, the AVM50v). I thought it would be great to get the added benefit of a CMS in the process that could rein in the expanded color gamut of my new pj. I seem to recall a lot of RS-1 owners using the Statement D2 and loving the combo, I just can't remember if this fixed the color or just allowed those happy users to do V-stretch.



The Anthem doesn't offer individual color gain limits/boosts to correct for errors in the color gamut of the display. If the error is not severe, it is possible that you can deal with it via a set of custom RGB gamma curves -- e.g. trim down the high end of the Blue curve to reduce a hot blue problem in the display.


Perhaps there are some posters here who have one of these two projectors and have tried this. If so, maybe they'll chime in here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16069399
> 
> 
> I have a failed HDMI out and my unit is being replaced for new (if they had any stock......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) without any discussion. Anthem *immediately* offered. Repair wasn't even mentioned.
> 
> 
> You should be fine.........



Generally speaking, they will do a swap out like this for hardware failures within the first 30 days. It is not something stated in the warranty, but it's an example of the things they try to do to exceed expectations.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chexi4* /forum/post/16069684
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thank you for the very thoughtful and comprehensive reply. The Anthem sounds pretty powerful. What I am looking for is something that can (via professional calibration) fix the color gamut of my Pioneer FPJ1/RS-2 projector. Since the scaler in the pj is already a Gennum VXP, I do not want to spend the $4k for the Lumagen just for the color correction.



Excuse me if I am not as Politically Correct as our

resident Expert *Bob Pariseau* - But Spending any

money to correct the Color on a Brand New Pioneer

FPJ1/RS-2 PJ is JUST *WRONG WRONG WRONG.*


If the color is that bad - Send it back. All these new PJ's

are so close to being PERFECT - no one should be spending

a DIME to fix the color.


----------



## The Bogg

Just finished playing around with ARC 2.1. I must agree with other people's assessment - it sounds great. Fabulous imaging and detail for movies etc... The bass was ultra clean but I still found it just a smidge lacking in the raw impact department. So I played around with targets.


Long story short, I decided to try setting all speakers to full range (they are ATCs which measure well down to 20hz in my custom designed by Rives room) with target of 25hz (the lowest it goes). Watched a variety of scenes and can say that this is a winner.


I wanted to know how loud it could go without distortion now since there was no bass management used (which is actually what ATC recommends) so I pulled out the trusty War of the Worlds pod scene. Got to dolby reference level (maybe even a little louder because the setup reference level was actually 80db instead of 75db) and it shook the earth. No broken speakers either. I don't usually listen that loud but just wanted to be sure I wasn't limiting my headroom with this setting.


Interestingly, the measurements for the bass were the same in both cases - i.e. my sub curve was similar to the target and just needed very little "adjustment" by ARC. The subs had been phase aligned to the front left speaker as per Bob Ps instructions. It just goes to show that sometimes there is more than one way to do things with acceptable results. The overall sound is slightly different without the "ultra-clean" feeling but it's definitely better to me this way with more satisfactory bass at lower volumes and lots of physical bass massage at higher volumes. Good job Anthem!


----------



## BillW

I was trying to upgrage the software today and it kept telling me it couldn't find the Anthem. I kept trying and even took apart the cable to check the connections because it is homemade. Then I decided it was time to eliminate the cable as a problem by buying a cable from Radio Shack- still no luck







.

Then I remembered Bob's advise to shut down Windows. I had done this before but had used the restart button. This time I actually powered down and upon powering back up the D2 was found no problem







.

Thanks Bob!!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/16070764
> 
> 
> Then I remembered Bob's advise to shut down Windows. I had done this before but had used the restart button. This time I actually powered down and upon powering back up the D2 was found no problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Thanks Bob!!




Isn't *WINDOWS* Wonderful


----------



## chexi4

I won't be spending any money to fix the colors, certainly not $4k. I have the colors dialed in pretty well (I think). They are generally pleasing and realistic, except at my current settings red is still a bit oversaturated, but not offensively so. What I was hoping for was that an upgrade I was going to do anyway for other reasons (namely the new audio formats) would also come with the added benefit of a full CMS to get me that last few percentage points of video bliss for free.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chexi4* /forum/post/16071047
> 
> 
> I won't be spending any money to fix the colors, certainly not $4k. I have the colors dialed in pretty well (I think). They are generally pleasing and realistic, except at my current settings red is still a bit oversaturated, but not offensively so. What I was hoping for was that an upgrade I was going to do anyway for other reasons (namely the new audio formats) would also come with the added benefit of a full CMS to get me that last few percentage points of video bliss for free.



I have been a PJ owner since 1977, when Henry Kloss built the

first one.


They sure have come light years ahead.


I have never owned one that I could not adjust the color by using

the electronics in the PJ. I have SONY PJ's now and they can be

programmed to adjust the color anyway you want. I would think

your Pioneer - a re-badged JVC has the same abilities.


The PJ is where the Color Adjustment Should be for consistency.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/16070565
> 
> 
> Just finished playing around with ARC 2.1. I must agree with other people's assessment - it sounds great. Fabulous imaging and detail for movies etc... The bass was ultra clean but I still found it just a smidge lacking in the raw impact department. So I played around with targets.
> 
> 
> Long story short, I decided to try setting all speakers to full range (they are ATCs which measure well down to 20hz in my custom designed by Rives room) with target of 25hz (the lowest it goes). Watched a variety of scenes and can say that this is a winner.
> 
> 
> I wanted to know how loud it could go without distortion now since there was no bass management used (which is actually what ATC recommends) so I pulled out the trusty War of the Worlds pod scene. Got to dolby reference level (maybe even a little louder because the setup reference level was actually 80db instead of 75db) and it shook the earth. No broken speakers either. I don't usually listen that loud but just wanted to be sure I wasn't limiting my headroom with this setting.
> 
> 
> Interestingly, the measurements for the bass were the same in both cases - i.e. my sub curve was similar to the target and just needed very little "adjustment" by ARC. The subs had been phase aligned to the front left speaker as per Bob Ps instructions. It just goes to show that sometimes there is more than one way to do things with acceptable results. The overall sound is slightly different without the "ultra-clean" feeling but it's definitely better to me this way with more satisfactory bass at lower volumes and lots of physical bass massage at higher volumes. Good job Anthem!



First of all Bogg, I cheked out the pictures of your HT set-up. WOW!

That's the stuff many of us can only dream about.

Secondly, I had the opposite experience from you when I tweaked my x-overs in ARC. It didn't sound as good as what ARC had selected, so I set it back to what ARC had chosen and I couldn't be happier.
*But isn't ARC great!*

Even a computer moron, like myself, can go into ARC and tweak the settings (x-overs,max freq eq, room gain,etc.), calibrate and see a graph of how it should theoretically sound. If the graph looks good I can upload to my D2 and listen. If I like it I can keep it. If not I can adjust some more or go back to the ARC solution.

I loved my D2 before ARC, but with ARC it is just amazing. *And they keep making it better!* I don't know of any other a/v product that I have been more satisfied with years after its original purchase than I was immediatly after buying it. The satisfaction usually decreases as newer products with newer bells and whistles are released.

Since purchasing my D2 I have owned 3 different satellite boxes (2 different providers),4 DVD players, 2 HDTV's,2 BR players and 5 CD players.

Yet I don't see any reason to replace my D2 in the forseeable future. Since I don't need the extra hdmi out, or 4 more in, or internal decoding of DTS-MA, etc., even the D2v doesn't interest me. I understand why many of you upgraded, and I don't mean to say that the D2 is better than the D2v, because it isn't.

I'm just trying to say in my own rambling way, just how great a $400 investment ARC has been. I'd do the bouncing smilies if I knew how, but for now these guys will have to do.


























































Thank you Anthem for a great product that just gets better!!

And thanks to all of you, especially Bob, for helping me understand it better so that I can get the most out of it.

Tom


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16071266
> 
> 
> I'd do the bouncing smilies if I knew how



I'm sure either BOB or I can SELL







You a Training Course


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There are still some obscure bugs in the V2.04 firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v.


Just found a new one:


Set up to play a CD using HDMI audio on a Pioneer DV59-avi or the Oppo BDP-83. Also set up a PS3 on HDMI. Set the CD to use PLIIx Movie as the Mode Preset for 2-channel input. Yes, I know, but humor me. Configure a 5.1 speaker setup with ARC V2.1 results loaded and enabled.


Power up the PS3 to its XMB user interface and select it as input. You will now have 7.1 LPCM input and 5.1 speaker output (there's only silence, but those are the signals). Leave the PS3 powered on this way through what follows.


Remove the disc from the CD player and power down that player. For God only knows what reason, this step is crucial.


Select the CD player as input. Power up the CD player, insert the CD, and hit play.


At this point the CD source will be producing 2 channel LPCM input at 44.1KHz. The Volume and Mode buttons on the D2v will both show that PLIIx-Movie mode is active (and with 2 channel input).


But only the L/R and Subwoofer will be producing output! The Select button display of speaker output activity also shows only L/R and Sub active.


Switching to a different input and back to the CD player, or even just switching Mode to PLIIx-Music and back to PLIIx-Movie will cure this problem -- i.e., all 5.1 speakers will now be active.


This bug doesn't surface if you use Coax Digital Audio from the CD player or if you leave the CD player powered after changing inputs to the PS3.


Anthem has been alerted.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16071337
> 
> 
> I'm sure either BOB or I can SELL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You a Training Course



Hint: "Quote" DRHANKZ' post to see the magic incantations.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chexi4* /forum/post/16071047
> 
> 
> I won't be spending any money to fix the colors, certainly not $4k. I have the colors dialed in pretty well (I think). They are generally pleasing and realistic, except at my current settings red is still a bit oversaturated, but not offensively so. What I was hoping for was that an upgrade I was going to do anyway for other reasons (namely the new audio formats) would also come with the added benefit of a full CMS to get me that last few percentage points of video bliss for free.



If I were in your shoes -- and replacing the projector was not an option -- I'd investigate some more whether the Custom RGB Gamma Correction curves in the Anthem might do the trick for you.


You might be able to try this at your dealer. Or do an email exchange with Anthem tech support to see if they've heard of other customers having success with this.


I know we had some RJ-1 owners interested in trying this last year, but I don't believe anybody posted the outcome.


ETA: I presume you have already confirmed that there are no service menu adjustments in your projector that an ISF Technician could use to correct the problem in the display itself.

--Bob


----------



## audiman

I have a pink screen problem. When i shut down both my PJ and SA 8300HD, the screen becomes pink the next time i power them up. The D2 is always ON.


If i then shutdown/power up the D2 (while the 2 others are ON), the pink screen diseapears.


I use v1.33


Color space is set to auto.


----------



## yacht422

re: post 20288 [v:2.1 is here]

using bob's link on my mac g-5, v2.1 comes up. (cannot load - it's a mac!)

using bob's link on my lenovo, running xp, sp #2, i can only see 2.01.

i've rebooted too many times .

any ideas?

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/16071628
> 
> 
> re: post 20288 [v:2.1 is here]
> 
> using bob's link on my mac g-5, v2.1 comes up. (cannot load - it's a mac!)
> 
> using bob's link on my lenovo, running xp, sp #2, i can only see 2.01.
> 
> i've rebooted too many times .
> 
> any ideas?
> 
> walt



The browser on your Lenovo is bringing up a cached version of the page it has kept on the PC.


Clear the internet cache in your browser and go back to that page again.


Or download the Zip file to your Mac. Don't UnZip it there. Instead transfer it to your Lenovo using, for example, a USB thumb drive. UnZip it in the Lenovo and you will be good to go.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/16071624
> 
> 
> I have a pink screen problem. When i shut down both my PJ and SA 8300HD, the screen becomes pink the next time i power them up. The D2 is always ON.
> 
> 
> If i then shutdown/power up the D2 (while the 2 others are ON), the pink screen diseapears.
> 
> 
> I use v1.33
> 
> 
> Color space is set to auto.



Shocking Pink video is a sign that the destination device wants RGB and is being sent YCbCr video. Odds are this is in your projector and that it is due to the HDMI handshake happening at power up a bit before the projector is really ready for it to happen.


In the Anthem, in Setup > Video Output try setting the output Color Space to an explicit choice -- e.g., Studio RGB -- instead of Auto.

--Bob


----------



## chexi4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16071515
> 
> 
> If I were in your shoes -- and replacing the projector was not an option -- I'd investigate some more whether the Custom RGB Gamma Correction curves in the Anthem might do the trick for you.
> 
> 
> You might be able to try this at your dealer. Or do an email exchange with Anthem tech support to see if they've heard of other customers having success with this.
> 
> 
> I know we had some RJ-1 owners interested in trying this last year, but I don't believe anybody posted the outcome.
> 
> 
> ETA: I presume you have already confirmed that there are no service menu adjustments in your projector that an ISF Technician could use to correct the problem in the display itself.
> 
> --Bob



I have not independently confirmed that the service menu does not have such tweaks, but everything I have read would indicate that it does not. If anyone has an Anthem AVM50, D2, or the newer D2v2 or 50v and an RS-1, RS-2, or FPj1, I'd love to hear about your results on tweaking color. Feel free to PM me if you don't want to clutter this thread with CMS stuff. Thanks.


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16071675
> 
> 
> The browser on your Lenovo is bringing up a cached version of the page it has kept on the PC.
> 
> 
> Clear the internet cache in your browser and go back to that page again.
> 
> 
> Or download the Zip file to your Mac. Don't UnZip it there. Instead transfer it to your Lenovo using, for example, a USB thumb drive. UnZip it in the Lenovo and you will be good to go.
> 
> --Bob



zip drive, here i come.

thx, bob

walt


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16071337
> 
> 
> I'm sure either BOB or I can SELL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You a Training Course



See I told you I'm a computer moron. I may have to offer some of my wife's cookies (you wouldn't want mine) to figure this out. This is as close as I could get.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16071907
> 
> 
> See I told you I'm a computer moron. I may have to offer some of my wife's cookies (you wouldn't want mine) to figure this out. This is as close as I could get.



Don't upload the images to AVS and attach them to your post.


Instead put the URL text (i.e, the web address) for each image into the text of your post surrounded by "img" and "/img" tags in square brackets.


Again, just "quote" DRHANKZ post and look in the quoted text that comes up to see the incantation.

--Bob


----------



## J. FRICANO

Hello Bob,

Will you please take a look at my new measured results for v.2.01 and offer any suggestions or insights? They differ quite a bit from v.1.2.5's results. Pevious x-over for the fronts were 40 Hz, Center 50 Hz, Surrounds 65 Hz and Sub 105 Hz. New x-overs are; Fronts 115 Hz, Center 60 Hz, Surrounds 60 Hz, and Sub 85 Hz. Room Gain was 2.503279 for movies and 2.727434 for music. New gains are 1.336950 for movies and 1.086642 for music. I increased them to 2.6 for movies and 2.7 for music.

I have NHT 2.9 towers for the fronts, NHT AC-2 for center, NHT 1.5's for surrounds and a REL Stadium III sub. My room is roughly 13' x 15' and is carpeted. I appreciate your time and consideration! John Fricano.

 

Doc1.doc 96.5k . file

 

Doc2.doc 92k . file

 

Doc3.doc 97.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/16072249
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> Will you please take a look at my new measured results for v.2.01 and offer any suggestions or insights? They differ quite a bit from v.1.2.5's results. Pevious x-over for the fronts were 40 Hz, Center 50 Hz, Surrounds 65 Hz and Sub 105 Hz. New x-overs are; Fronts 115 Hz, Center 60 Hz, Surrounds 60 Hz, and Sub 85 Hz. Room Gain was 2.503279 for movies and 2.727434 for music. New gains are 1.336950 for movies and 1.086642 for music. I increased them to 2.6 for movies and 2.7 for music.
> 
> I have NHT 2.9 towers for the fronts, NHT AC-2 for center, NHT 1.5's for surrounds and a REL Stadium III sub. My room is roughly 13' x 15' and is carpeted. I appreciate your time and consideration! John Fricano.



First, if you really meant ARC V2.0.1, then you should move to the new ARC V2.1 that just came out.


Now as to these charts, all of your problems are due to something screwy going on in the bass output of your LF/RF speakers.


If these are speakers with powered woofers or satellite subwoofers attached to them, then that's what is misconfigured.


Look at the red Measured curve for LF. You've got a 15dB swing between the peak at 50Hz and the dip at 150Hz. This would be typical of a satellite subwoofer with its internal volume set too high and its crossover (with respect to the midrange in the main part of the speaker) set incorrectly as well. The dip is causing ARC to think your front speakers roll off sooner than they actually do. That's also what's causing the lower Room Gain result.


See this post for some suggestions of how to tame such speakers:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4&post16019134 


--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16072020
> 
> 
> Again, just "quote" DRHANKZ post and look in the quoted text that comes up to see the incantation.
> 
> --Bob



There you GO BOB = Giving away my Consulting Income


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16071266
> 
> 
> First of all Bogg, I cheked out the pictures of your HT set-up. WOW!
> 
> That's the stuff many of us can only dream about.
> 
> Secondly, I had the opposite experience from you when I tweaked my x-overs in ARC. It didn't sound as good as what ARC had selected, so I set it back to what ARC had chosen and I couldn't be happier.
> *But isn't ARC great!*
> 
> I loved my D2 before ARC, but with ARC it is just amazing. *And they keep making it better!* I don't know of any other a/v product that I have been more satisfied with years after its original purchase than I was immediatly after buying it.
> 
> 
> Thank you Anthem for a great product that just gets better!!
> 
> Tom




Thanks Tom.


It's so true, Anthem is da bomb. It's funny, I've been in the hobby for many years. I knew Sonic Frontiers but I hadn't heard of Anthem before I went to a friend's place who had the AVM2 (going back a few years now). I happened to be looking for an ssp so I checked out Anthem and ended up with the AVM20 which was great....until the D1 came out! ARC has been such a major improvement for so little money that it boggles my mind! I was secretly hoping they would do some sort of eq system and was willing to pay way more than what ARC ended up costing. Nice to be pleasantly surprised by a lower than expected price.


I think if you're going to question what ARC has done then you have to have something specific in mind that you want to change or think should be different. I think most people would've been happy with what ARC did for my system but having experienced the bass pre-ARC I knew that there should be more visceral bass than what I was getting because I made sure to have lots of "firepower" available so that bass headroom wouldn't be an issue. The ARC result was super smooth and balanced but just didn't have quite what I wanted so I played around. That is definitely the beauty of ARC also - the ability to make changes. Most main and surround speakers wouldn't do well being run full-range but it works well in my specific room because of the prodigious room gain at the bottom end as a result of the room construction.


I checked the crossover settings after I uploaded the ARC results and was somewhat surprised to see the sub crossover set at 25hz! That's the same frequency as the other speakers were set too (the lowest setting). The "bypass LFE" wasn't on so ARC must do something similar to "bypass LFE" within it's own programming otherwise there'd be a lot of lost bass. This is fine but I'm wondering then what the real low pass is set at for the lfe? In theory the LFE channel shouldn't go above 150hz IIRC, but the Star Wars remastered dvd had some "garbage" above that. I had originally thought it was distortion but it turns out it was just bass frequencies higher than normal in the lfe channel when the sub crossover wasn't used (I was using a B&W ASW 4000 at that time when I discovered this). Maybe I'll pull out that dvd and try it here.


I don't really have any urge to upgrade to the D2v, I'll probably just skip a generation or so. If I hadn't recently upgraded the D1 to the D2 (D1-hd for the nitpicky) then for sure it would be a no-brainer to go for the D2v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC handles LFE content specially in cases where the crossover for the sub is set low for room correction purposes.


It is a more sophisticated version of LFE Bypass. But I don't have any of the details.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chexi4* /forum/post/16071774
> 
> 
> I have not independently confirmed that the service menu does not have such tweaks, but everything I have read would indicate that it does not. If anyone has an Anthem AVM50, D2, or the newer D2v2 or 50v and an RS-1, RS-2, or FPj1, I'd love to hear about your results on tweaking color. Feel free to PM me if you don't want to clutter this thread with CMS stuff. Thanks.



You cannot adjust CMS via the Anthem Pre/pro as it has none. I use the CMS feature of my Epson 1080ub to do that. The good thing is the exponential gamma correction of my D2 is a joy to use. I can only get a gamma of 2.0 even by using the custom gamma correction of my PJ without introducing black crush.


I use colorfacts 7.5.7 and a I1pro to dial in my greyscale and CMS. A color gamut that is accurate to the REC 709 std is just dandy.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/16073170
> 
> 
> I use the CMS feature of my Epson 1080ub to do that. .



I assume you see the PREVIOUS post from *abc999*


He knows what he is talking about. THE PJ needs to do color adjustment.


Trying to do it outboard is the wrong approach.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16071337
> 
> 
> I'm sure either BOB or I can SELL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You a Training Course
























Thanks- the check's in the mail.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/16071624
> 
> 
> I have a pink screen problem. When i shut down both my PJ and SA 8300HD, the screen becomes pink the next time i power them up. The D2 is always ON.
> 
> 
> If i then shutdown/power up the D2 (while the 2 others are ON), the pink screen diseapears.
> 
> 
> I use v1.33
> 
> 
> Color space is set to auto.



I just set up my new D2v today - I have installed 2.04 and I have the same problem. Never had this problem with my previous D2.


The problems also occurs when I move through the setup menu - it will flip back and forth from "normal" to "pink" when I change screens or enter commands.


Other problems:


No audio through HDMI with my SA8300HD - same problem as with the D2 - it may be a local unit programming glitch - otherwise not that big of a deal as I just connect a coaxial digital cable and all works fine when I change the setup in the SA8300HD. I even set up the unit initially with just the HDMI connected.


In the setup menu if you select only two channels for the music setup there is no sound from the center, surrounds, and rears in the manual speaker level setup. If I change the music back to having all speakers available, the sound is fine.


I have not had a chance to run ARC and probably won't until next week as I am heading out of town for the weekend.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16073976
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks- the check's in the mail.



I will keep the Mailbox OPEN for it


----------



## lk100

Hello Bob,


My dealer surprised me today and I have a new D2v. I installed firmware 2.04 before hooking it up. I also upgraded arc to 2.1 on my pc, and since I'm going from the AVM50/arc, I also move the serialized files to the arc folder. My question now is can I recalculate the arc measurements from the AVM50 and the old mike and upload them to the D2V?


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16045145
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> You are right, this is an excellent CD for percussion (Michael Hart/Airto/Flora
> 
> Purim --> "Dafos", an audiophile percussion classic, on the Rykodisc label,
> 
> RCD 10108, from 1989).
> 
> 
> Here's some other excellent ones:
> 
> 
> 1. Mickey Hart --> "Planet Drum", 24k gold CD, 20-bit digital mastered, on the Rykodisc label, RCD 80226.
> 
> 2. Mickey Hart --> " Supralingua", HDCD encoded, 2-disc set, also on Ryko label, RCD 10396.
> 
> 3. Michael Stearns --> "The Lost World", on Hearts of Space (fathom) label,
> 
> HS 11054-2.
> 
> 4. "The Sheffield Drum & Track Disc", on the Audiophile Reference Series, from
> 
> the Sheffield Lab label, 11420-2-F.
> 
> 5. KODO --> "Heartbeat Drummers of Japan", also on the Audiophile Reference
> 
> Series, from also the Sheffield Lab label "Live Studio Recordings", 12222-2-F.
> 
> 6. Babatunde Olatunji --> "Love Drum Talk", on Cd and SACD, High Resolution
> 
> Technology Recording (recorded at 96/24), on Chesky label, CD = WO160.
> 
> 
> ____ These are only very few examples that everyone should listen to, from my very vast collection of CDs & SACDs.
> 
> 
> And to finally terminate with only one title, also from my very vast library of
> 
> HD DVDs and Blu-Rays, check out the Blu-Ray of --> "Max Payne". Listen to the Bass coming from your Subwoofer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want more titles for checking your Anthem processor with your loudspeakers, in the Bass region with 5hz recordings, in the Midrange area for the best imaging and clarity, or the Treble region for the best spacious and airy recordings; please, don't hesitate to ask me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another excellent label is "Reference Recordings" for extra Dynamic Range of Classical Music.
> 
> I only own the very Best, and my collection is quite enormous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> _____
> 
> Bob




Note: I made a special effort for you guys, owners of the Anthem processors,

to provides some of the best recordings in the world about percussion, and no

one responded to even a simple thanks. Bob gave you the first title, and I suggested all the others. And what do we get for our efforts? Not even a simple cookie? Nada! Zip! Where is gone the appreciation nowadays?










And don't forget, without the recordings, your Anthem is obsolete!










______

Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100* /forum/post/16074235
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> My dealer surprised me today and I have a new D2v. I installed firmware 2.04 before hooking it up. I also upgraded arc to 2.1 on my pc, and since I'm going from the AVM50/arc, I also move the serialized files to the arc folder. My question now is can I recalculate the arc measurements from the AVM50 and the old mike and upload them to the D2V?



Unfortunately, you can't.


Those Measurements files are keyed to the serial number of your AVM 50. ARC won't let you Upload any results you Calculate from those to any other unit. It's more than a little confusing, since ARC offers the option to update the old file for the new hardware. But there it is.


So you'll need to do a new set of Measurements using the new mic that came with your D2v.


---------------------------------------------


By the way, when did you order your D2v? It appears that some units are getting shipped despite the part shortage we've heard about.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16074208
> 
> 
> The problems also occurs when I move through the setup menu - it will flip back and forth from "normal" to "pink" when I change screens or enter commands.



Doing some things in the Setup menu, such as moving around in the Source Setup list of sources, causes a source selection, and thus a new handshake.


Having a false color flash during an HDMI handshake is pretty normal.


This is different from what I was talking about where things have settled down and you see video almost as normal -- except that it is tinted Shocking Pink.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16074344
> 
> 
> Note: I made a special effort for you guys, owners of the Anthem processors,
> 
> to provides some of the best recordings in the world about percussion, and no
> 
> one responded to even a simple thanks. Bob gave you the first title, and I suggested all the others. And what do we get for our efforts? Not even a simple cookie? Nada! Zip! Where is gone the appreciation nowadays?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And don't forget, without the recordings, your Anthem is obsolete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ______
> 
> Bob



Sometimes you just have live with your own satisfaction in a job well done.










We here at "Bob Pariseau" find it useful to keep some "self motivation" cookies stashed in our cubicles for just such occasions.

--Bob


----------



## Gary Ramsey

New to the tread with an AVM 50v, it arrived today! (I've been monitoring the tread for over 2 months...)


FYI - Ordered my unit Jan 19 (after my trip to Anthem's booth at CES), it shipped from Anthem Mar 9, ARC version 2.0.1 CD in the box was dated Feb 10.


AVM 50v was shipped with ARC version 2.0.2 installed - (Power up --> Select).


Still unpacking the box!


/g


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16074397
> 
> 
> Doing some things in the Setup menu, such as moving around in the Source Setup list of sources, causes a source selection, and thus a new handshake.
> 
> 
> Having a false color flash during an HDMI handshake is pretty normal.
> 
> 
> This is different from what I was talking about where things have settled down and you see video almost as normal -- except that it is tinted Shocking Pink.
> 
> --Bob



Switched the DATA setting from "Auto" first to Studio RGB then to Extended RGB. The Extended RGB looks better than the Studio RGB - both richer colors and more shadow detail. The "pink" problem is now gone both when turning off/on the SA8300HD and in the menus.


Thanks again Bob.


The other thing that happended as a side effect was that my SA8300HD would always switch into 4:3 frame mode when I switched channels to a 480i output channel, after switching the DATA to the Exteneded or Studio RGB instead of "auto" this no longer happens....hooray!


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gary Ramsey* /forum/post/16074536
> 
> 
> New to the tread with an AVM 50v, it arrived today! (I've been monitoring the tread for over 2 months...)
> 
> 
> FYI - Ordered my unit Jan 19 (after my trip to Anthem's booth at CES), it shipped from Anthem Mar 9, ARC version 2.0.1 CD in the box was dated Feb 10.
> 
> 
> AVM 50v was shipped with ARC version 2.0.2 installed - (Power up --> Select).
> 
> 
> Still unpacking the box!
> 
> 
> /g



Congratulations Gary! And welcome to the Cool Kids Thread.










I suggest that just about the first thing you do should be to update your new AVM 50v to the V2.04 firmware you will find here:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html 


While you are at it, download the new ARC V2.1 from the same page. You can install ARC on your Windows computer using the CD the came with your AVM 50v (which will get the necessary licensing/calibration files in the right place on your Windows PC) and then install the new ARC V2.1 on top of that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16074551
> 
> 
> Switched the DATA setting from "Auto" first to Studio RGB then to Extended RGB. The Extended RGB looks better than the Studio RGB - both richer colors and more shadow detail. The "pink" problem is now gone both when turning off/on the SA8300HD and in the menus.
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob.
> 
> 
> The other thing that happended as a side effect was that my SA8300HD would always switch into 4:3 frame mode when I switched channels to a 480i output channel, after switching the DATA to the Exteneded or Studio RGB instead of "auto" this no longer happens....hooray!
> 
> 
> Mike



Check out the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post found in the collection of links in the first post of this thread for more setup tips like that.


You can use either Studio or Extended RGB so long as your projector is set the same way. Apparently your projector is currently set to expect Extended RGB which would be typical if it was being used with a computer. Studio RGB is the more normal choice for home theater use. If there's a mismatch between what the Anthem is told to send out and what the projector expects then the imaging won't look right.


Check out the post links in the "Terminology and Technology" collection in the first post of this thread for an explanation of the different data formats.

--Bob


----------



## chexi1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16073664
> 
> 
> I assume you see the PREVIOUS post from *abc999*
> 
> 
> He knows what he is talking about. THE PJ needs to do color adjustment.
> 
> 
> Trying to do it outboard is the wrong approach.



Yep, saw it. Unfortunately the FPJ1 / RS-2, while a fantastic projector, does not have a CMS. I checked the service menu and it really does not provide anything other than the main menu, although there is something in there that I have no idea what it does. It has a "Cedia" mode. I was afraid to test it lol.


I have about 16 hours on my pj now and found some settings tonight that looked very realistic to me. After about 50 hours I will calibrate with Avia and see how I like things, but I am more than satisfied with the pj with its present color presentation.


Now, I will stop hijacking this thread, as the anthem part of my post regarding CMS is no longer applicable.


Thanks all.


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16074460
> 
> 
> Sometimes you just have live with your own satisfaction in a job well done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We here at "Bob Pariseau" find it useful to keep some "self motivation" cookies stashed in our cubicles for just such occasions.
> 
> --Bob



Hey Bob,


I know what you mean.










You make me feel better now.










So, some people in your team, besides yourself, are keeping cookies ready to be savored? And from your cubicles too?










Regards,


_______

Bob


----------



## bubbawilly

Does the D2v process DSD via HDMI?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bubbawilly* /forum/post/16074926
> 
> 
> Does the D2v process DSD via HDMI?



It does not.


You will need an SACD player that converts DSD to HDMI LPCM output or to multi-channel analog output.

--Bob


----------



## lk100

I ordered the dv2 on Feb 23rd, and after hearing about the parts shortage, I thought it would arrive near the end of April. So when the dealer called on Tuesday, I was really surprised.


I figured I would have to redo the measurements. Thanks. I hope I can apply some of your advice this time.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chexi1* /forum/post/16074691
> 
> 
> Yep, saw it. Unfortunately the FPJ1 / RS-2, while a fantastic projector, does not have a CMS. I checked the service menu and it really does not provide anything other than the main menu, although there is something in there that I have no idea what it does. It has a "Cedia" mode. I was afraid to test it lol.
> 
> Thanks all.



Your PJ is a rather high-end PJ, not your $999 version.


It just seems WRONG there is no ability for a Calibrator

to correct the Color!


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16069326
> 
> 
> I take it you've previously played that disc in that same player so you know it is not a player or disc problem, correct?
> 
> 
> In that case, email Anthem tech support. Attach a copy of your ARC results file -- not just screen captures of the charts. Anthem can extract a lot more information from the results file than is shown on the charts.
> 
> 
> I suspect that, while the engineers are looking at your file, their first suggestion will be that you re-install your firmware and re-Upload your ARC V2.1 results just to be sure nothing got corrupted in those.
> 
> 
> Did you make any changes to ARC's chosen Target values other than adjusting the Max EQ Frequency target for Movie/Music?
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob,


First I followed your advise and contacted Anthem TechSupport (and attached my last measurement).

But I also trust your judgment and therefore here are some answers to your questions:

- I am not using a hardware player. I use TMT, running on a Vista 32bit machine dedicated for HT and reading from an external high-speed NAS on a 1Gb LAN network. All the chain is fine tuned AFAIK.

- No, I never saw The Dark Knight before but this is a BD dump of all the files, so my guess is it is OK.

- The only changes I performed are:

> Max EQ 5000 > 20000 on both profiles

> Lowered mains' min freq from 45Hz to 25Hz for music profile

> Both Gain were preset to 3.9xxx so I didn't change that


Just some more thoughts. My main and center speakers are "Full range" speakers, but I suppose that something in the D2 should prevent signals such as explosions and loud bursting noises to be steered to them and only to the sub. Am I wrong? If not, how do we achieve that?


In the past I already burnt 2 tweeters and 2 woofers with such "misuses".

I do not want to go through that again.

As I said, I do not own JBL's, these are fine sensitive speakers and I want to protect them.


Thanks


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16072380
> 
> 
> First, if you really meant ARC V2.0.1, then you should move to the new ARC V2.1 that just came out.
> 
> 
> Now as to these charts, all of your problems are due to something screwy going on in the bass output of your LF/RF speakers.
> 
> 
> If these are speakers with powered woofers or satellite subwoofers attached to them, then that's what is misconfigured.
> 
> 
> Look at the red Measured curve for LF. You've got a 15dB swing between the peak at 50Hz and the dip at 150Hz. This would be typical of a satellite subwoofer with its internal volume set too high and its crossover (with respect to the midrange in the main part of the speaker) set incorrectly as well. The dip is causing ARC to think your front speakers roll off sooner than they actually do. That's also what's causing the lower Room Gain result.
> 
> 
> See this post for some suggestions of how to tame such speakers:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4&post16019134
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thank you, Bob for looking over my results. The fronts are bi-wired and not powered subs. Seems strange. Will download newest version. Any further suggestions? Thankyou again!! John.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/16075790
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> First I followed your advise and contacted Anthem TechSupport (and attached my last measurement).
> 
> But I also trust your judgment and therefore here are some answers to your questions:
> 
> - I am not using a hardware player. I use TMT, running on a Vista 32bit machine dedicated for HT and reading from an external high-speed NAS on a 1Gb LAN network. All the chain is fine tuned AFAIK.
> 
> - No, I never saw The Dark Knight before but this is a BD dump of all the files, so my guess is it is OK.
> 
> - The only changes I performed are:
> 
> > Max EQ 5000 > 20000 on both profiles
> 
> > Lowered mains' min freq from 45Hz to 25Hz for music profile
> 
> > Both Gain were preset to 3.9xxx so I didn't change that
> 
> 
> Just some more thoughts. My main and center speakers are "Full range" speakers, but I suppose that something in the D2 should prevent signals such as explosions and loud bursting noises to be steered to them and only to the sub. Am I wrong? If not, how do we achieve that?
> 
> 
> In the past I already burnt 2 tweeters and 2 woofers with such "misuses".
> 
> I do not want to go through that again.
> 
> As I said, I do not own JBL's, these are fine sensitive speakers and I want to protect them.
> 
> 
> Thanks



The Dark Knight Blu-Ray is a disc that I believe has been known to give some decoders fits -- audio drop outs in particular. I don't know if the reason has been nailed down yet. But if this was your first time playing that copy then the problem may be in the audio decoder. Were you having your Vista machine do the decoding to LPCM? Do you have another player you can try with that disc to see if the problem is with your Vista setup?


I think this is much more likely to turn out to be a playback issue as opposed to an ARC V2.1 issue.


You are running a D2 as I recall, so D2v firmware issues would not be relevant.


--------------------------------------------


If you have a subwoofer configured, no LFE content goes to the front speakers even if you have explicitly identified the front speakers as "full range".


If you DON'T have a subwoofer configured, then LFE content goes to the front speakers -- which are forced to "full range".


LFE content has higher dynamics than the normal LF/RF channel content of course but either one of them is capable of very high volume. There is no specific volume limiter in the Anthem to clip high volume output that's actually in the content. And of course there's no way for the Anthem to know that the audio input might be incorrect due to a faulty audio decoder.


There was even a known problem with many DTS-HD MA decoders last year known as the DTS-HD M A-Bomb which caused some DTS-HD MA tracks to generate loud bangs. Onkyo and Yamaha decoding receivers in particular were badly bitten by this (since fixed by firmware updates).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/16075793
> 
> 
> Thank you, Bob for looking over my results. The fronts are bi-wired and not powered subs. Seems strange. Will download newest version. Any further suggestions? Thankyou again!! John.



Carefully re-check the wiring for your fronts -- both ends of each cable. Double check any settings on the speaker that have to do with configuring them for bi-wiring. Double check any settings on the speaker that have to do with bass profile or internal crossover. That peak and dip in the fronts is the thing that needs to be tackled.


Since you are getting pretty much the same response down there from both LF and RF, I don't think this is a case of a broken speaker. It looks like a case of improper setup.


Also, if you have charts from your V1.2.5 setup, post those here so we can see how things might have changed. Did you do anything to your fronts since then? Move them? Re-wire them? Changed power amps for them? Put them in a different enclosure or added a grill cloth or the like?

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16076370
> 
> 
> The Dark Knight Blu-Ray is a disc that I believe has been known to give some decoders fits -- audio drop outs in particular. I don't know if the reason has been nailed down yet. But if this was your first time playing that copy then the problem may be in the audio decoder. Were you having your Vista machine do the decoding to LPCM? Do you have another player you can try with that disc to see if the problem is with your Vista setup?
> 
> 
> I think this is much more likely to turn out to be a playback issue as opposed to an ARC V2.1 issue.
> 
> 
> You are running a D2 as I recall, so D2v firmware issues would not be relevant.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you have a subwoofer configured, no LFE content goes to the front speakers even if you have explicitly identified the front speakers as "full range".
> 
> 
> If you DON'T have a subwoofer configured, then LFE content goes to the front speakers -- which are forced to "full range".
> 
> 
> LFE content has higher dynamics than the normal LF/RF channel content of course but either one of them is capable of very high volume. There is no specific volume limiter in the Anthem to clip high volume output that's actually in the content. And of course there's no way for the Anthem to know that the audio input might be incorrect due to a faulty audio decoder.
> 
> 
> There was even a known problem with many DTS-HD MA decoders last year known as the DTS-HD M A-Bomb which caused some DTS-HD MA tracks to generate loud bangs. Onkyo and Yamaha decoding receivers in particular were badly bitten by this (since fixed by firmware updates).
> 
> --Bob



Well, the decoding done by TMT under Vista is in fact to Analog 5.1 out as I still don't have an HDMI soundcard and the track I was reading was in fact a DTS-HD track.

I forgot about all the LFE function, thank you for clarifying that for me again. I do have a DD18, with EQ disabled, only relying on ARC.

And no, I do not have another player.

In light of these updates, do you have anything to add?


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/16075793
> 
> 
> Thank you, Bob for looking over my results. The fronts are bi-wired and not powered subs. Seems strange. Will download newest version. Any further suggestions? Thankyou again!! John.



I had some weirdness in the first ARC run that I did and Bob pointed me in the same direction as he gave you. Turns out some fool (that would be me







) had switched the wires around in one of the speakers.


Hopefully your fix is as simple as mine!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/16076511
> 
> 
> Well, the decoding done by TMT under Vista is in fact to Analog 5.1 out as I still don't have an HDMI soundcard and the track I was reading was in fact a DTS-HD track.
> 
> I forgot about all the LFE function, thank you for clarifying that for me again. I do have a DD18, with EQ disabled, only relying on ARC.
> 
> And no, I do not have another player.
> 
> In light of these updates, do you have anything to add?



Borrow another player that does DTS-HD MA decoding and try that same disc (with the volume turned down of course). If there's no problem with the other player then the odds are it is in the DTS-HD MA decoding in your Vista setup.


If the problem DOES occur with the other player, let Anthem know as that would then point the finger back at ARC again.


The new ARC V2.1 does produce more deep bass extension, but that's in the subsonics -- stuff you feel more than hear -- and wouldn't sound like bangs or explosions which happen at higher frequencies.


Do the usual checking in your Setup menu to make sure you haven't accidentally undone the stuff that ARC uploads for crossovers and speaker levels. Make sure Room EQ is on for that source. Since you are using the multi-channel analog input, make sure ANALOG-DSP is set for that input.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16076370
> 
> 
> The Dark Knight Blu-Ray is a disc that I believe has been known to give some decoders fits -- audio drop outs in particular. I don't know if the reason has been nailed down yet. But if this was your first time playing that copy then the problem may be in the audio decoder. Were you having your Vista machine do the decoding to LPCM? Do you have another player you can try with that disc to see if the problem is with your Vista setup?
> 
> 
> I think this is much more likely to turn out to be a playback issue as opposed to an ARC V2.1 issue.
> 
> 
> You are running a D2 as I recall, so D2v firmware issues would not be relevant.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you have a subwoofer configured, no LFE content goes to the front speakers even if you have explicitly identified the front speakers as "full range".
> 
> 
> If you DON'T have a subwoofer configured, then LFE content goes to the front speakers -- which are forced to "full range".
> 
> 
> LFE content has higher dynamics than the normal LF/RF channel content of course but either one of them is capable of very high volume. There is no specific volume limiter in the Anthem to clip high volume output that's actually in the content. And of course there's no way for the Anthem to know that the audio input might be incorrect due to a faulty audio decoder.
> 
> 
> There was even a known problem with many DTS-HD MA decoders last year known as the DTS-HD M A-Bomb which caused some DTS-HD MA tracks to generate loud bangs. Onkyo and Yamaha decoding receivers in particular were badly bitten by this (since fixed by firmware updates).
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/16075790
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> First I followed your advise and contacted Anthem TechSupport (and attached my last measurement).
> 
> But I also trust your judgment and therefore here are some answers to your questions:
> 
> - I am not using a hardware player. I use TMT, running on a Vista 32bit machine dedicated for HT and reading from an external high-speed NAS on a 1Gb LAN network. All the chain is fine tuned AFAIK.
> 
> - No, I never saw The Dark Knight before but this is a BD dump of all the files, so my guess is it is OK.
> 
> - The only changes I performed are:
> 
> > Max EQ 5000 > 20000 on both profiles
> 
> > Lowered mains' min freq from 45Hz to 25Hz for music profile
> 
> > Both Gain were preset to 3.9xxx so I didn't change that
> 
> 
> Just some more thoughts. My main and center speakers are "Full range" speakers, but I suppose that something in the D2 should prevent signals such as explosions and loud bursting noises to be steered to them and only to the sub. Am I wrong? If not, how do we achieve that?
> 
> 
> In the past I already burnt 2 tweeters and 2 woofers with such "misuses".
> 
> I do not want to go through that again.
> 
> As I said, I do not own JBL's, these are fine sensitive speakers and I want to protect them.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I concurr. I too have some movies running through my HTPC and find that more times then not it will have a glitch or 2 due to a codec issue. I would also suspect your issue is not related to arc. I found when I was streaming blu ray from my nas I had to make sure all my disk were running at the same speed in the nas. This corrected my issue.


Don


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16074344
> 
> 
> Note: I made a special effort for you guys, owners of the Anthem processors,
> 
> to provides some of the best recordings in the world about percussion, and no
> 
> one responded to even a simple thanks. Bob gave you the first title, and I suggested all the others. And what do we get for our efforts? Not even a simple cookie? Nada! Zip! Where is gone the appreciation nowadays?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And don't forget, without the recordings, your Anthem is obsolete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ______
> 
> Bob



thank you so much for the info. Can you point me to the best place to purchase or download these recordings?


-bob


----------



## rkphelps

I need help guys, I have a movie party tomorrow night and can't get a picture through HDMI (from my PS3) after updating with ARC 2.1 from 2.01. I know I have to disconnect my HDMI connections when upgrading Firmware in the D2, but I didn't think I needed to do this when using ARC.


I did have my projector on while updating, was this a mistake?


What do I do now? reload firmware?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/16079046
> 
> 
> I need help guys, I have a movie party tomorrow night and can't get a picture through HDMI (from my PS3) after updating with ARC 2.1 from 2.01. I know I have to disconnect my HDMI connections when upgrading Firmware in the D2, but I didn't think I needed to do this when using ARC.
> 
> 
> I did have my projector on while updating, was this a mistake?
> 
> 
> What do I do now? reload firmware?



You do not need to remove HDMI connections or turn off your display before doing an ARC Upload.


Odds are you've been bitten by the fairly rare bug that causes the Setup menu settings to revert to factory defaults after doing an Upload of ARC results. You've likely just lost your Setup > Source Setup settings for the PS3 input.


If you have current or nearly current settings stashed in Saved User or Installer Settings this is easy to fix.


1) Power cycle your D2 -- use the back panel power switch as well -- to get things into a fresh state.


2) Go into Setup and Reload Saved User or Installer Settings. If you don't have video, you can use the Front Panel display to navigate the Setup menu.


3) Open your new ARC results file in Advanced mode and redo the Upload. No need to re-Measure or re-Calculate.


4) Go into your Setup menu and check that things now look correct. We've had no reports of this bug surfacing more than once for anybody, but it is wise to check.


5) When you are happy that things are working properly again, do a Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the Setup menu changes ARC Uploaded for you.


ETA: If you fiddled with the serial connection on the back of the D2, also make sure you didn't just knock the PS3 HDMI cable out of the nearby socket. It only takes a little bit of looseness to break the connection, so the plug doesn't have to come completely out of the socket to lose the connection.

--Bob


----------



## J. FRICANO

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
Carefully re-check the wiring for your fronts -- both ends of each cable. Double check any settings on the speaker that have to do with configuring them for bi-wiring. Double check any settings on the speaker that have to do with bass profile or internal crossover. That peak and dip in the fronts is the thing that needs to be tackled.


Since you are getting pretty much the same response down there from both LF and RF, I don't think this is a case of a broken speaker. It looks like a case of improper setup.


Also, if you have charts from your V1.2.5 setup, post those here so we can see how things might have changed. Did you do anything to your fronts since then? Move them? Re-wire them? Changed power amps for them? Put them in a different enclosure or added a grill cloth or the like?

--Bob
Hello Bob,

I loaded ARC v2.1 as you suggested and re-measured, The results are below. I do not have 1.2.5 graphs on hand . I placed jumpers back in nullifying the bi-wire set up and checked the wires and connections to the mains and Bryston amp and also cleaned and tightened the wires. Nothing else has changed.I assume the amp is OK as it is a 3-channel affair and the center is fine. Thank you again for your input!...John.

 

Doc13K 1.doc 91.5k . file

 

Doc13K 2.doc 90k . file

 

Doc13k 3.doc 100.5k . file


----------



## rkphelps

I did what you said bob but still no pic. I am getting sound but no pic. I have cycled through all the projector inputs with no luck. I do get the OSD on component. Could this had screwed up the HDMI software in my projector (Sony VPL-40)?


----------



## spiderv6

Did you try the other HDMI out? Same issue?


----------



## rkphelps

I switched to hdmi 2 on my projector no luck. Can't remember is there a 2nd hdmi output on the D2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/16079197
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> I loaded ARC v2.1 as you suggested and re-measured, The results are below. I do not have 1.2.5 graphs on hand . I placed jumpers back in nullifying the bi-wire set up and checked the wires and connections to the mains and Bryston amp and also cleaned and tightened the wires. Nothing else has changed.I assume the amp is OK as it is a 3-channel affair and the center is fine. Thank you again for your input!...John.



There's still something screwy going on with the bass and low-midrange output from LF/RF. LF is worse than RF.


The peak at 40Hz alone might be explained away as an unusually severe room resonance, but the gradual roll off of LF between 100Hz and 500Hz, taken together with that peak at 40Hz, is just not right.


Play some content and put your ear up close to each driver in both those speakers and make sure each driver is putting out sound.


If you can't spot anything wrong in the speaker setup or driver function, you are going to have to deal with the tougher task of changing how those two speakers couple to the room. This can be done by shifting them a bit (even inches matter in the lower frequencies) or by adding "bass trap" room treatments that cut down bass reflection from surfaces which contribute to room resonances and cancellation nulls.


A problem in your Amp is less likely but you can test that by temporarily switching the LF/RF amp output feeds with the LS/RS amp output feeds (i.e., swap the amp used by those two pairs) and re-Measuring with ARC.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/16079321
> 
> 
> I switched to hdmi 2 on my projector no luck. Can't remember is there a 2nd hdmi output on the D2?



Only One HDMI on a D2.


We'll PRAY you have not runied a HDMI connector.


As Bob said - there is NO NEED to uplug anything when uploading ARC.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/16079279
> 
> 
> I did what you said bob but still no pic. I am getting sound but no pic. I have cycled through all the projector inputs with no luck. I do get the OSD on component. Could this had screwed up the HDMI software in my projector (Sony VPL-40)?



It's not likely any hardware was screwed up by the ARC Upload.


This is probably something simple -- a loose cable -- a setup error.


Start with the basics. See if you can get the Setup menu displayed on your projector. That is internally generated. Go into Setup > Video Output and make sure your output configuration is correct. Make sure your sources are using the correct one of the 4 Video Output configurations.


Power cycle your projector to see if that brings up the Setup menu.


If you can't get the Setup menu to display, even after checking Setup > Video Ouput (via the Front Panel display) and the input selector in your projector then you will likely need to call Anthem tech support. This stuff is usually easier to sort out if you are on the phone with someone rather than exchanging messages like this.


If you have another display to try with the Anthem, try that.

--Bob


----------



## rkphelps

Found it, sorry to bother you guys, but give me the stupid award of the year. I somehow disconnected the hdmi output cable on the back of my D2. You breath on these cables they come loose (bad Design). I know it's 101 to check cables first but I panicked and didn't think. Thanks for your help and I am sorry for bothering you all. Stupid, stupid somebody hit me







.


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16077728
> 
> 
> thank you so much for the info. Can you point me to the best place to purchase or download these recordings?
> 
> 
> -bob



Hi Bob,


Now, this is something out of my hands. I purchased all or almost all of my CDs & SACDs from special orders. Download is not my forte, these titles are probably not listed for download, and if they were, I cannot stand compression, it's a NO NO in my book.


What I suggest though, is for you to go to the best CD stores, and special order what you cannot find. I am Canadian, so I cannot help you with store's names.

One thing to not forget when you do this, you pay often top prices, and some of them are indeed quite expensives. But you pay for quality and exclusivity sometime.

I spent easily over $100,000 for my collection of CDs & SACDs alone.

If you add my DVDs, DVD-Audios, HD DVDs and Blu-Rays on top of that, we are over 1/4 of a million dollars!


Like I said before, your expensive equipment, your Anthem processor, amps, etc. are obsolete without good recordings, Music and Movies.


Thank you for your appreciation of my few recordings' suggestion.


Good luck and God bless you,


_______

Bob



Note: Bob, did you check my prior post #20338, for some recommendations?


----------



## spiderv6

You can find all of those recommendations on Amazon without too much trouble or cost. A couple are noted as unavailable/deleted but are available used.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/16079413
> 
> 
> Found it, sorry to bother you guys, but give me the stupid award of the year. I somehow disconnected the hdmi output cable on the back of my D2. You breath on these cables they come loose (bad Design). I know it's 101 to check cables first but I panicked and didn't think. Thanks for your help and I am sorry for bothering you all. Stupid, stupid somebody hit me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



No need to apologize. These things happen. It's better to panic here than resort to running down the street screaming or some such.











ETA: As for HDMI's bad plug/socket design, you won't get any argument here. In fact if you put your ear up close as the plug drops out of the socket, you'll probably hear the Anthem making a little "Ptui!" noise...

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/16079413
> 
> 
> Found it, sorry to bother you guys, but give me the stupid award of the year. I somehow disconnected the hdmi output cable on the back of my D2. You breath on these cables they come loose (bad Design). I know it's 101 to check cables first but I panicked and didn't think. Thanks for your help and I am sorry for bothering you all. Stupid, stupid somebody hit me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



I KNEW that would be the case - MY PRAYER WORKED


----------



## facke02

I just picked up a Squeezebox Duet. Any recommendations on connecting to my D2v, Digital, Analog, or try both and go with the best sounding?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't know that product, but I always recommend digital audio as the starting point because it eliminates one processing step. If you feed analog to the Anthem it has to be re-digitized before it can be processed, e.g., before you can use ARC with it.

--Bob


----------



## facke02

Thanks Bob, that's what I suspected. It's an audio streaming device.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16080061
> 
> 
> I just picked up a Squeezebox Duet. Any recommendations on connecting to my D2v, Digital, Analog, or try both and go with the best sounding?



I agree with Bob. If you have ARC, then digital is the only way.


----------



## obie_fl

I have two Duets and two Squeezeboxes with one exception they are all connected digitally. I don't think the Duet can touch what your Anthem can do in the digital domain.



btw the one with the analog hook up is on a tiny amp with no digital input


----------



## facke02

Digital it is...


Thanks everyone


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16079826
> 
> 
> You can find all of those recommendations on Amazon without too much trouble or cost. A couple are noted as unavailable/deleted but are available used.



Hey,


That's what I call a quick help.

















Thank you,


______

Bob



P.S. If you want some more obscure selections that are harder to find, let me know.


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16079849
> 
> 
> No need to apologize. These things happen. It's better to panic here than resort to running down the street screaming or some such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ETA: As for HDMI's bad plug/socket design, you won't get any argument here. In fact if you put your ear up close as the plug drops out of the socket, you'll probably hear the Anthem making a little "Ptui!" noise...
> 
> --Bob



I'm sorry Bob, I just could not resist to express my happyness on that one.

This is by far the best one that I heard in a long time, well, at least today.

LOL big time.







Panic here







, instead of running nude down the street,

screaming and yelling profanities...










Your sense of humor is always at a High, keep it up there.


_______

Bob


----------



## Johnsteph10

How does one go about getting a D2v if the nearest "authorized dealer" is a total loser? I don't want to drive 100+ miles to the next one.


Any advice?


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16079826
> 
> 
> You can find all of those recommendations on Amazon without too much trouble or cost. A couple are noted as unavailable/deleted but are available used.



+1. Discovery of Amazon Marketplace has resulted in a much bigger bang for my software dollar.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16080061
> 
> 
> I just picked up a Squeezebox Duet. Any recommendations on connecting to my D2v, Digital, Analog, or try both and go with the best sounding?



I have a couple of Squeezeboxen. Digital is the way to go.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Do any of you guys toe in your speakers in before you run ARC?


I've always had my Paradigm 100v3's facing forward.


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16081615
> 
> 
> Do any of you guys toe in your speakers in before you run ARC?
> 
> 
> I've always had my Paradigm 100v3's facing forward.



Hi,


They should be at the same position before and after running ARC.


They face forward when normally listening to them, so they also face forward, in the same position, when running ARC.


_______

Bob



Note: You can always deviate from this recommendation, to see if you prefer the sound doing that, but it will go to the contrary of ARC Room EQ design's purpose.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16081671
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> They should be at the same position before and after running ARC.



Oh ya know know not to move them after I run ARC. I'm just wondering if I should toe them in?


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16081695
> 
> 
> Oh ya know know not to move them after I run ARC. I'm just wondering if I should toe them in?



Hey!

I have the same speakers and I toe them in just slightly. I have found they image a bit better for me.

This stuff is always to "taste" so I would suggest if you have some time try them forward or toed in slightly and go through the ARC process on each...

/\\/\\


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16081695
> 
> 
> Oh ya know know not to move them after I run ARC. I'm just wondering if I should toe them in?



Your Paradigm Studio 100s?


I am familiar with these, and I will very, and I mean very slightly toe them, say about only

20 degree at most, 15 degree even better, but that's just me. Well 17.5 degree is good.

It depends how your ears are sensitive to their tweeters.

You have to experiment on your own for that.

Each one of us have a different set of ears.

And it depends of the distance between your two 100s.

And it depends too, at what distance you are listening from them.

And it also depends at how far they are positioned from the side walls.

See, it ain't so easy after all. So many variables.

Experimentation and experience with your room is the key here.

In the end, it's a question of personal taste.


Good listening,


______

Bob


Note: If I may add, your 100s v3 are quite large, and some reviewers like them to be widely separate, and also to a large distance from your listening position, plus more facing

forward, as straight up. (Don't forget to always leave the grills on.)

Some other reviewers found that their angle of toing is relatively easy and not difficult, as you can pretty much toe them almost but not quite to your listening position.

The distance from the side walls and your room furniture, etc., will dictate the amount of toing.

See how it varies from two big expert reviewers on their toing angles.

Personally, I already give you my opinion right at the beginning. But it's just me in my own room.

Now, it's up to you to experiment in your own room.

This is a too delicate recommendation to make. I am sure you do understand.


To give you another tip: If they are pretty close to the side walls, toe them in more towards you. If they are quite far from the side walls, face them forward with very litte

toe in, just like the angles that I already give you. Try that and listen how that sounds.

But make sure that only yourself is totally satisfied by their sound in your own room.

And at the very end of your journey, while having fun experimenting, enjoy the final results.

Oh ya, play some CDs with good imaging characteristics too, with some nice female singer, like "Famous Blue Raincoat", by Jennifer Warnes. And try to center Jennifer in the middle of the soundstage, dead in the center of your room, right between your two 100s, with the other musical instruments in their respective place in the soundstage.


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16081352
> 
> 
> How does one go about getting a D2v if the nearest "authorized dealer" is a total loser? I don't want to drive 100+ miles to the next one.
> 
> 
> Any advice?



Unfortunately I don't think you have much of an option. Now with that said there is a D2v on Audiogon at the moment. But remember if you buy that unit you won't have the warranty. Its a lot of money to spend not to have a warranty.


----------



## Lordoftherings

Is this the thread about Anthem processors with ARC Room EQ calibration system,

or is it about Paradigm Studio 100 speakers room's position with proper toe in?


_______

LOTR


Well, same company sisters anyway.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/16082060
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I don't think you have much of an option. Now with that said there is a D2v on Audiogon at the moment. But remember if you buy that unit you won't have the warranty. Its a lot of money to spend not to have a warranty.



There are always options. I can recommend a good dealer if anyone wants to PM me.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16081352
> 
> 
> How does one go about getting a D2v if the nearest "authorized dealer" is a total loser? I don't want to drive 100+ miles to the next one.
> 
> 
> Any advice?



1st, I'd call Anthem and see if there are other dealers close by. 2nd, I'm sure that one of the dealers of the members here would love your business over the phone.


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16082335
> 
> 
> 1st, I'd call Anthem and see if there are other dealers close by. 2nd, I'm sure that one of the dealers of the members here would love your business over the phone.



Ahh... Did not know they could sell over the phone. Just didn't want to get anyone in trouble.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16081615
> 
> 
> Do any of you guys toe in your speakers in before you run ARC?
> 
> 
> I've always had my Paradigm 100v3's facing forward.



I've had best luck swinging LF/RF about 1/3 of the way from perpendicular to the screen towards the center seating position. So just a modest amount of toe-in. I point surrounds and Center towards the center seating position.


There's no set rule on this since it depends on the horizontal dispersion characteristics of your speakers at higher frequencies along with how toe-in changes the way the bass from those speakers couples with the wall/corner behind them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16081352
> 
> 
> How does one go about getting a D2v if the nearest "authorized dealer" is a total loser? I don't want to drive 100+ miles to the next one.
> 
> 
> Any advice?



Anthem has two types of dealers. Normal authorized dealers have store fronts. Custom installers don't. Custom installers are supposed to only sell Anthem products in conjunction with installation services.


Check in the dealer locator on the Anthem web site to see if you have a custom installer near by who might, on balance, be better to deal with.


Of course depending on just what "total loser" means here, Anthem may also be able to help you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16082135
> 
> 
> Is this the thread about Anthem processors with ARC Room EQ calibration system,
> 
> or is it about Paradigm Studio 100 speakers room's position with proper toe in?



Oh we cater to ALL kinds here! Whatever makes your Anthem processor listening experience better...










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/16082436
> 
> 
> Ahh... Did not know they could sell over the phone. Just didn't want to get anyone in trouble.



They are not supposed to sell out of their assigned market area. But of course that's between them and Anthem. If you buy from an authorized dealer you are good -- just as if you bought from them while traveling in their area.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16081615
> 
> 
> Do any of you guys toe in your speakers in before you run ARC?
> 
> 
> I've always had my Paradigm 100v3's facing forward.



If you google 'home theater speaker set-up' or a similar phrase, you will find multiple sites that will show the optimum speaker placement for the number of speakers (5.1/7.1) you use and subwoofer placement.

Most of the sites I saw advise toeing in your fronts. The manual for my Paradigm S4's advised that they be toed in at an angle so that if you drew an imaginary line through the center of each speaker aiming into the room, those 2 lines should intersect a few feet behind the prime listening seat- the seat where you would take the first ARC reading. This is actually a pretty significant toe-in. Check the owner's manual for your Paradigm's and see what they suggest.

Care should also be taken in the placement of the center in relation to the fronts, the surrounds to the rears, and the placement of the subs to walls and corners, etc...

Please read these different 'ht speaker set-up' sites. They all suggest pretty much the same things. Then set up your speakers the best you can, given the constraints of your room. Listen. Make minor adjustments. Then listen again. When you get it to the place you like the best for movies and music, then re-run ARC. Look at your graphs and see if there are any dips or peaks that can be corrected with further speaker adjustments. If you post your graphs here Bob P. will give you his invaluable feedback which will help you tune-in the best possible sound you can get.

If you don't take care in your speaker placement ARC will still make them sound better. If you take the time to carefully tweak the speaker placement for your room, ARC will make them sound great.

Tom


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Sent you a PM if Atlanta helps. Probably to far but just in case.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16081352
> 
> 
> How does one go about getting a D2v if the nearest "authorized dealer" is a total loser? I don't want to drive 100+ miles to the next one.
> 
> 
> Any advice?


----------



## Anderslober

Hello Anthem Forum..........just a short one.....how important is stereo SUBWOOFER outputs? The D2v has a couple of sub outs.....as I understand these are mono(single signal).......what will/can I miss, if anything.


thx


----------



## Johnsteph10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16082579
> 
> 
> Anthem has two types of dealers. Normal authorized dealers have store fronts. Custom installers don't. Custom installers are supposed to only sell Anthem products in conjunction with installation services.
> 
> 
> Check in the dealer locator on the Anthem web site to see if you have a custom installer near by who might, on balance, be better to deal with.
> 
> 
> Of course depending on just what "total loser" means here, Anthem may also be able to help you.
> 
> --Bob



Bob (et al) thanks for the help.


By "total loser" I mean that they are unwilling to order a D2v for me since they insist that they "have" to sell their display units, first... ?


That makes absolutely no sense to me whatsoever.


It seems the Anthem D2v fits what I need:


- No amp (as all of my HT speakers will be active)

- HD codecs

- Balanced outs (XLR)

- Excellent customer service/support

- Excellent room eq


----------



## Johnsteph10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/16082772
> 
> 
> Sent you a PM if Atlanta helps. Probably to far but just in case.



thanks!


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16083744
> 
> 
> By "total loser" I mean that they are unwilling to order a D2v for me since they insist that they "have" to sell their display units, first... ?
> 
> 
> That makes absolutely no sense to me whatsoever.



I would definitely give Anthem a call and explain that. I am sure they will have a little discussion with the dealer. That is completely unacceptable.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Anderslober* /forum/post/16083218
> 
> 
> Hello Anthem Forum..........just a short one.....how important is stereo SUBWOOFER outputs? The D2v has a couple of sub outs.....as I understand these are mono(single signal).......what will/can I miss, if anything.
> 
> 
> thx



I've brought up this subject several times previously in this thread. I don't view it as a shortcoming but rather a nice to have. Very few processors have more then one "point one" channel. I know Lexicon used to (still do?) have multiple bass channels. Ideally it would be nice to have a bass channel for every speaker and a dedicated LFE channel but that "ain't" going to happen. I'd like to see the next generation Anthem have at least three bass channels so you could could have stereo (L&R) subs and a LFE sub. Having said that if you do a proper setup of redirected bass and LFE to a single sub you should be fine. Just be mindful of phase issues and let ARC take care of the crossovers and EQ.


----------



## gchuva

I've been told that sending a mono signal to all the subs is one of the leading theories for producing the best bass (at least that was articulated in one post in the audyssey forum). My concern would be ARC not setting the distances for each of the subs. That, plus the cost of the D2v, is pushing me towards the Denon AVP.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gchuva* /forum/post/16084370
> 
> 
> That, plus the cost of the D2v, is pushing me towards the Denon AVP.



I know the Anthem is not inespensive.


But to compare Anthem to any Denon is like Comparring

a Ferrari to Moped.


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16084441
> 
> 
> I know the Anthem is not inespensive.
> 
> 
> But to compare Anthem to any Denon is like Comparring
> 
> a Ferrari to Moped.



Ahhhhh, drhank,


You bring back such fond memories of Bermuda on this first day of Spring!!










It is almost time to run the third zone from the D2v to the deck!


----------



## obie_fl

The good Dr has a unique way with words.







Truth is it sounds like Fanboiism which has no place in this thread. The Denon is a damn fine unit and to dismiss it as a moped is doing it a great disservice. In any case I'd call the Denon at least a Corvette.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16084536
> 
> 
> The good Dr has a unique way with words.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Truth is it sounds like Fanboiism which has no place in this thread. The Denon is a damn fine unit and to dismiss it as a moped is doing it a great disservice. In any case I'd call the Denon at least a Corvette.



And lets not forget Denon Tech Support.


If it is a Corvette - then where are the WHEELS [aka NO TECH SUPPORT].


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16084548
> 
> 
> And lets not forget Denon Tech Support.
> 
> 
> If it is a Corvette - then where are the WHEELS [aka NO TECH SUPPORT].



I agree 110%. Maybe the equipment difference isn't Ferrari vs moped, but the tech support certainly is. I've called Anthem tech many times and I'd say 8 out of 10 times Nick, the head tech himself, answers!!! The other 2 times another tech has answered. How they find time to work on the units and upgrades, etc AND answer the phones, I don't know, but they do it and it's just plain incredible support!!!!


Try calling Denon and have fun talking to their answering machine.


If the cost is a problem, buy a used D2 and ease yourself into the ever available upgrades.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/16084996
> 
> 
> Try calling Denon and have fun talking to their answering machine.



OH SO TRUE


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Spears & Munsil Blu-Ray Video Calibration Disc Available!*


The new Spears & Munsil Blu-Ray video calibration disc is now available for separate purchase from Oppo Digital -- makers of the Oppo SD-DVD players and the upcoming Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player.


Oppo sponsored the development of this disc, and they are bundling a copy with every BDP-83 player they sell.


I've been using this disc for a while now as part of the Beta test program for that player, and it is a truly excellent Blu-Ray video calibration disc for folks who are not using an optical sensor.


The video clips on it for testing/demonstrating de-interlacing performance are also encoded in SD so that you can test how your combo of player and processor handles SD-DVD content or SD "extras" content from Blu-Ray discs. Actually you get 3 different encodes of those: HD-VC1, SD-VC1, and SD-MPEG2. So far there has not been a single report of an encoding error in any of the charts and video clips on this disc.


The main weakness of this disc is that it doesn't include even basic audio calibration tests, so you will need to pair it with other test sources for that. It also doesn't contain color bar step charts for easy use with a light sensor. So folks using a light sensor to set up color and gray scale tracking will likely want another test source as well.


But it does include some truly unique stuff, such as properly encoded gray scale steps that go all the way down to digital 1 and all the way up to digital 254 in a chart format that actually lets you see precisely what is happening on your display with such data step by step.


Both Stacey Spears and Don Munsil are acknowledged experts in digital video and the problems inherent in commercial digital video formats. I highly recommend this disc to everyone looking to get the best video setup for their Anthem processors.


Please note that this is a Blu-Ray disc, so of course you will need a Blu-Ray player to use it:

http://www.oppodigital.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BDSM1R 


--Bob


----------



## gchuva

Cost is the key problem. And it's hard to find a used D2 in Singapore. I love this Anthem thread, although you guys are unfairly dissing the Denon AVP, IMO, at least with respect to the quality if not with respect to customer service. I actually use a Denon receiver in my bedroom and have never had problems with it, which really moots the customer service issue altogether.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Anderslober* /forum/post/16083218
> 
> 
> Hello Anthem Forum..........just a short one.....how important is stereo SUBWOOFER outputs? The D2v has a couple of sub outs.....as I understand these are mono(single signal).......what will/can I miss, if anything.
> 
> 
> thx





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gchuva* /forum/post/16084370
> 
> 
> I've been told that sending a mono signal to all the subs is one of the leading theories for producing the best bass (at least that was articulated in one post in the audyssey forum). My concern would be ARC not setting the distances for each of the subs. That, plus the cost of the D2v, is pushing me towards the Denon AVP.



Subs operate at low enough frequencies that they are not localizable. I.e., when properly set up you don't know where the bass is coming from. It "fills the room" from all directions. Basically the subs work together to pressurize the entire listening room.


So distance adjustment of the sub(s) is not the crucial thing it is with the main speakers where faulty distance adjustment can actually affect proper imaging. E.g., something that should image centered between two speakers actually appears imaged a few feet to either side.


Instead with subs the distance adjustment is in aid of producing proper "phasing" of the audio so that the output from more than one sub does not produce phase error cancellations and so that there are not phase error cancellations between any sub and the main speakers for frequencies near the crossover frequency where both are playing the same content.


We have talked frequently here about how to set up more than one sub properly with the Anthems. You need to get subs that each have an internal volume control and an internal phase control. In brief:


1) Set the subs roughly equidistant from the primary listening position within the limits of placement choices in your listening room. Pick a distance setting for the subwoofer channel that is the average distance of your subs.


2) Separately set volume for each sub using its internal volume control and the Anthem test tones. For example, with 2 subs the rule of thumb is to set each individually to produce 73dB SPL. When played together that yields 75dB SPL.


3) Separately set phase for each sub using its internal controls. If your sub(s) also have polarity controls, figure the best phase adjustment setting for each of the two polarity choices and pick the combo of phase/polarity that works best for each sub. (Typically a sub at the front of the room will be set to "normal" polarity and a sub at the rear of the room will be set to "inverted" polarity.) This is done by using a calibration test disc's phase adjustment test tone and adjusting each sub's settings (only one sub powered at a time) to produce the best bass output when audio is coming both from the sub and from the left front speaker. When each sub in turn is adjusted to be in phase with LF, then they are also in phase with each other.


4) Power up all subs and do your ARC setup. ARC hears all the subs playing at the same time and so it can correct for any residual errors due to remaining mismatches in their setup at the same time that it is correcting room response problems.

--Bob


----------



## gchuva

Are there no issues about sound from one sub reaching your ears before the other subs? I always thought that was the reason for distance calibration. I suppose given the speed of sound the differences are imperceptible.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gchuva* /forum/post/16085247
> 
> 
> Are there no issues about sound from one sub reaching your ears before the other subs? I always thought that was the reason for distance calibration. I suppose given the speed of sound the differences are imperceptible.



Timing differences affect imaging at higher frequencies. Subs don't reproduce those frequencies so no problem there.


Timing differences also alter the relative phase of the audio signal from each sub. You can't possible correct for all of that even with separately adjustable sub outputs since any adjustment you make would only apply to one specific seating position and would only fully correct for phase with respect to one single speaker of your main speaker/surround setup.


Instead you make phase adjustments to minimize phase errors -- using the Left Front speaker as the surrogate for all of your main speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16083744
> 
> 
> Bob (et al) thanks for the help.
> 
> 
> By "total loser" I mean that they are unwilling to order a D2v for me since they insist that they "have" to sell their display units, first... ?
> 
> 
> That makes absolutely no sense to me whatsoever.
> 
> 
> It seems the Anthem D2v fits what I need:
> 
> 
> - No amp (as all of my HT speakers will be active)
> 
> - HD codecs
> 
> - Balanced outs (XLR)
> 
> - Excellent customer service/support
> 
> - Excellent room eq



If you already know you want to place a new unit purchase, you can do that just as easily via an authorized Anthem "custom installer".


If you can't find one of those in your area, then call Anthem and tell them your problem with your dealer. They'll sort it out.


I can understand the dealer wanting to sell a floor sample unit. Typically these would be sold at a modest discount. But the dealer is silly to turn away business if you want to pay for a unit still in the factory sealed box.

--Bob


----------



## gchuva

Thanks. I think I finally understand. Now the only thing that keeps me from the D2v is cost. If only I hadn't invested in Lehman.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gchuva* /forum/post/16084370
> 
> 
> IThat, plus the cost of the D2v, is pushing me towards the Denon AVP.



The Anthem units are not for everybody to be sure. Each purchaser has to decide for him or herself what really matters.


The D2v is what I call a "near-exotic" product, and is priced accordingly. Diminishing returns apply here. You can spend a lot of money pushing for that next step of audio and imaging quality.


Odds are you will be happy with either product. Personally I think that if you can afford the D2v you will be happier with the D2v and ARC (which comes bundled with the D2v).

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gchuva* /forum/post/16085335
> 
> 
> Thanks. I think I finally understand. Now the only thing that keeps me from the D2v is cost. If only I hadn't invested in Lehman.



I lost a SMALL fortune on ML.


I feel your PAIN.


----------



## TJG55

I am a dealer in Tn and would be happy to work with you. Don't know exactly how to do this. Don't want to violate any of this board's policies. Paradigm dealer for >20yrs and Anthem dealer since its inception.

tjg


----------



## rkphelps

I have a question for you guys on 7.1 surround settings with the D2 (the first one) and DTS-HD Master Audio.


Tonight My theater will be showing the (Blu-Ray) movie Australia and it has a English 5.1 DTS-HD Master Audio selection for surround sound. Can someone suggest if I should just play it with 5.1 DTS-HD to get the most out of the master audio or is there a better setting in the D2 that will convert the 5.1 to 7.1 that you feel may sound better as I have a 7.1 speaker system in my theater.


I'm new to the Blu-Ray crowd using a PS3 player (outputting pcm) and not familiar with these new HD Sound formats and I want to be sure I experience everything DTS-HD has to offer with my ARC Calibrated D2







.


Thanks

Rob


----------



## TJG55

John

have tried to send a PM but not sure how it works. If you didn't get it, please call me at 423 929 1121

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rkphelps* /forum/post/16086166
> 
> 
> I have a question for you guys on 7.1 surround settings with the D2 (the first one) and DTS-HD Master Audio.
> 
> 
> Tonight My theater will be showing the (Blu-Ray) movie Australia and it has a English 5.1 DTS-HD Master Audio selection for surround sound. Can someone suggest if I should just play it with 5.1 DTS-HD to get the most out of the master audio or is there a better setting in the D2 that will convert the 5.1 to 7.1 that you feel may sound better as I have a 7.1 speaker system in my theater.
> 
> 
> I'm new to the Blu-Ray crowd using a PS3 player (outputting pcm) and not familiar with these new HD Sound formats and I want to be sure I experience everything DTS-HD has to offer with my ARC Calibrated D2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Rob



The original D2 is limited to 5.1 HDMI LPCM input and does not accept HDMI Bitstream input for the new lossless audio formats. However, the D2 is capable of raising 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output using, for example, PLIIx audio surround mode.


So what you do with the PS3 is let it do its automatic setup for both HDMI video and HDMI audio. E.g., Settings > Display Settings first for video and then it will ask if you want to also do audio. Do so.


As part of that the PS3 will discover that the D2 can not accept 7.1 input and it will disable the 7.1 output options.


Then, when you select a 7.1 track, such as a 7.1 DTS-HD MA track from a Blu-Ray disc, the PS3 will perform the necessary down-mixing -- merging the rear channel content into the side channels for 5.1 output.


Meanwhile, if you have a 7.1 speaker setup configured in your D2, when you listen to 5.1 audio input you will find that surround modes are available to raise that to 7.1 speaker output. Press Mode once on the D2 remote and then use Up or Down arrow to cycle through the choices available according to the current type of audio input.


Typically you would select PLIIx-Movie as the surround mode to raise 5.1 movie content to 7.1 speaker output. The D2 will monitor the side surround input channels and extract what it thinks is the appropriate portion of that to steer to the rear speakers. It can do this with high bandwidth 5.1 HDMI LPCM input (as from the PS3) as well as with lossy bitstream formats such a DD5.1 from HDTV programs.


Set this way the PS3 decodes a 7.1 DTS-HD MA track to HDMI LPCM, down-mixing that to 5.1 HDMI LPCM for output. The original D2 receives that 5.1 HDMI LPCM input and applies the Dolby PLIIx algorithm to it to raise that to 7.1 speaker output.


Eh, voilÃ*!


These same settings are all you need for playing the 5.1 DTS-HD MA track on the disc you mentioned. The only difference is that the PS3 doesn't have to do any down-mixing. There are no setting changes you have to make. The player figures this out automatically.


The D2 does an excellent job of raising all 5.1 input types to 7.1 speaker output (e.g., using PLIIx), so my recommendation is that you just leave the D2 set to do that even when playing 5.1 tracks.


ETA: In Setup > Mode Presets you can specify the default audio surround mode to use for each source for each type of audio input. In the unlikely event you run into a 5.1 track that doesn't sound good raised to 7.1 speaker output, you can still temporarily change the D2 to audio mode "None" for 5.1 input (Mode button and Up/Down arrows) which will play the 5.1 input unaltered (i.e., rear speakers silent). Your default Mode Preset settings will return the next time you select this source as input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/16086177
> 
> 
> John
> 
> have tried to send a PM but not sure how it works.
> 
> Tom



PMs are indeed the AVS-approved way to do this, and work well. You can even mark a PM requesting an automatic receipt message be sent back to you when the PM is read (the recipient can prevent that, but most folks don't).


By the way, I'm glad to hear that you folks are still in business with Paradigm/Anthem and doing well! (A blast from the past...







)

--Bob


----------



## bubbawilly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/16082436
> 
> 
> Ahh... Did not know they could sell over the phone. Just didn't want to get anyone in trouble.



Anthem has one of the strictest dealer agreements in the industry. Or, perhaps it more accurate to say that they enforce their dealer agreement policy much more aggressively than most manufacturers. Any long-term Anthem dealer knows not to quote anything other than MSRP over the phone, and only then if they believe you to be within their authorized marketing area.


If word gets out through this board that certain dealers are breaching their dealer agreement, those dealers will very likely lose the line.


Be very careful, even in PMs. Anthem does shop their dealers, and they do monitor this board.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gchuva* /forum/post/16085186
> 
> 
> Cost is the key problem. And it's hard to find a used D2 in Singapore. I love this Anthem thread, although you guys are unfairly dissing the Denon AVP, IMO, at least with respect to the quality if not with respect to customer service. I actually use a Denon receiver in my bedroom and have never had problems with it, which really moots the customer service issue altogether.



Chris,


Make me an offer!










Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

PM's are also the appropriate place to discuss used equipment transactions...










--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16086945
> 
> 
> PM's are also the appropriate place to discuss used equipment transactions...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



You're right, Bob. Just pulling his leg.

-Ben


----------



## esander3

Being a past Denon owner (and a past moped owner), I have to say that comparing the Denon to a moped does the moped a disservice...


The Denon can not compete with good external amplification, but it dose have a lot of bells and whistles that are mostly useless...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

On the other hand, audio quality from most mopeds is downright awful.


Now if you replace the 2.0 stroke engine with a 5.1 or 7.1 stroke engine that would be a different beastie altogether....

--Bob


----------



## neff2k

Actually before I got into the Anthem equipment, I had a Denon 3806 which I really liked a lot. Actually put a 3807 in my parents house. For a smaller HT with people who aren't as picky that was a dang good unit. But once you taste the sweet frosting on the Anthem its a whole different ball park (Bob uses this frosting on his cookies I believe). The Denon AVP on the other hand is a very impressive unit too. I haven't had a chance to compare the two so I can't give a honest comparison. I have had to use Denon customer service and there is absolutely no comparison. In service I would agree Anthem is the Ferrari and Denon is the Moped. Don't think I could use that analogy for the products themselves though.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

So far it looks like no new "test" firmware or ARC software for this weekend.


My guess would be they are pressing forward with the next major D2v and AVM 50v release -- the one that includes Dolby Volume support. So any additional bug fixes will likely await the first "test" versions of that.


In addition, we know they are working on a V1.34 firmware release for the D2 and AVM 50 units, and that may be the next thing we see from them.


It will be nice to have stable D2v and ARC software for a whole weekend!









--Bob


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## nethomas

I follow this thread because as a former D1 owner, I have great respect for Anthem. I can not imagine the D2V being anything less than stellar. I am sorry to see some of the posters throwing rocks at other venders. As the very happy owner of a Denon AVP A1HD I assure you that it is not a moped and if you think so you probably haven't ever heard one. I think most of us are happy with what we have bought and rightly so, however bashing another unit in a thread supposedly started to help with tweaking the Anthem is amaturish and not in keeping with what Levesque had in mind when he started this thread or what Bob Pariseau has worked so hard to foster the past several months. I think you should just continue to enjoy the Anthems


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## obie_fl

As a current D2 owner I have to agree with you gthomas. I doubt most of the bashers have ever heard or even bothered to check out the specs of the AVP A1HD, it is a very impressive piece. It tops the D2 in a number of ways including my coveted three independent bass channels. By most accounts the Audyssey Pro system goes neck and neck with ARC. I just think elitism is very unbecoming and no I'm not thinking about switching from my D2 to the Denon.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nethomas* /forum/post/16088784
> 
> 
> I follow this thread because as a former D1 owner, I have great respect for Anthem. I can not imagine the D2V being anything less than stellar. I am sorry to see some of the posters throwing rocks at other venders. As the very happy owner of a Denon AVP A1HD I assure you that it is not a moped and if you think so you probably haven't ever heard one. I think most of us are happy with what we have bought and rightly so, however bashing another unit in a thread supposedly started to help with tweaking the Anthem is amaturish and not in keeping with what Levesque had in mind when he started this thread or what Bob Pariseau has worked so hard to foster the past several months. I think you should just continue to enjoy the Anthems



I am also a previous Denon owner and am disappointed at the bashing. I seriously considered a AVP A1HD, but the reason I did not get one that it is physically to large for my shelf and would have had inadequate ventilation. The one thing that it has that I am disappointed that the D2v does not have is a 7.1 analog input and that they took away the ability to route the 5.1 surround input to the rears.


The D2v is great though!


Mike


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16055635
> 
> 
> FYI - those looking to order 8" HDMI port savers monoprice.com now has them back in stock after being out for over a month. I ordered 10 of them....
> 
> 
> This is not an advertisement - just information for other Anthem product owners who have been waiting, as I have, for the port savers to be restocked.
> 
> 
> Mike



A question for those who have used these port savers: they sure seem like a good idea to save the equipment but have you noticed any degradation in PQ? They don't appear to be a very high quality/robust cable.


----------



## akopperl

When you run ARC - do you need to go to the setup screens and modify the speakers to full and levels to 0 dB? I was just curious if your current settings affect the measured results. In other words, if you have the center crossover set to 80 Hz prior to running ARC, will it impact the measurement and recommended cutoff, etc?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/16090669
> 
> 
> When you run ARC - do you need to go to the setup screens and modify the speakers to full and levels to 0 dB? I was just curious if your current settings affect the measured results. In other words, if you have the center crossover set to 80 Hz prior to running ARC, will it impact the measurement and recommended cutoff, etc?
> 
> 
> Thanks



If you have only 1 subwoofer, the only setting in Setup that alters the Measurement process is the Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level setting (Noise Level in the V1.33 firmware). That setting is used to control the volume of ARC's test sweep tones.


Any crossover and speaker volume trim values will be ignored during Measurement and replaced during Upload. ARC also bypasses Room Resonance Filter, Center EQ, and THX Ultra 2 Sub / Boundary Gain Compensation. Any settings you have for those are ignored during Measurement and also during listening after your ARC Upload (for any source where ARC is enabled -- i.e., Room EQ = ON in Setup > Source Setup).


You need to manually set the Setup > Listener Position values -- i.e., speaker distances. You can do this before or after ARC setup.


You also need to manually adjust the Polarity/Phase settings for your subwoofer. If you only have one subwoofer you can do this before or after ARC setup.


-----------------------------


My recommendation is that you do a few preliminary steps to make things go more smoothly. In Setup > Level Calibration, zero all the lines. Then set test mode to Manual in the first line and adjust the Test Level / Noise Level line to yield 75dB SPL.


Then go down to either subwoofer line, leave that line at 0dB, and adjust the volume control built into your subwoofer to produce 75dB SPL. Ballpark values are fine for both of these.


This will insure that ARC's test sweep tones operate at a reasonable level, and that your subwoofer's internal volume has been preset so that ARC can easily volume trim it to balance with the main speakers.


Zeroing the other lines in that menu is just to keep from confusing yourself with old values. ARC doesn't care about any old values.


--------------------------------------------


If you have more than one subwoofer you need to do some additional preliminary steps. We've discussed this in detail several times recently. You have to set each sub's volume separately to balance them against each other, and you have to adjust the phase of each sub separately to be in phase with the Left Front speaker (and thus also in phase with each other). This has to be done PRIOR to ARC Measurement as ARC hears all of your subwoofers playing simultaneously and thus their relative volume balance and relative phase adjustment alters what ARC will hear from the combo.


In addition you must set "1 Sub" in both the Movie and Music speaker configurations. Whether you have one subwoofer or more than one, when using ARC the "1 Sub" setting is the correct one to use both during Measurement and also during listening after the ARC Upload.

--Bob


----------



## gchuva




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16089946
> 
> 
> they took away the ability to route the 5.1 surround input to the rears.
> 
> 
> Mike




What do you mean by this? Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gchuva* /forum/post/16090831
> 
> 
> What do you mean by this? Thanks



There used to be a setup that let you take Side Surround input channels and route that to the Rear Surround speakers (with the Side speakers then becoming silent). This was used by some folks for 5.1 music content. Unfortunately that had some bugs and Anthem just eliminated it for the new software.

--Bob


----------



## V7Sport73

*I need help with firmware update!* Well I've been using my Anthem D2V for about 3 weeks now and I'm trying to do my first firmware update. I'm not too sure how this is done. In Bob's posting #19852 he explains everything great but I don't get number (6). Do firmware install? How? I've tried for hours to figure this out. Anthems manual does not explain this either. It says follow directions on upload but I don't see anything on how to install this new firmware. Anthem’s instructions assume that everyone is familiar with this process. It's a first me. I've currently have the 2.02 firmware on my D2V. I've uploaded the files and opened them on my desktop. My ARC now say's it is version 2.1 on the computer but when I upload my new room correction settings my unit still say's 2.02 on the screen. What am I doing wrong here?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *V7Sport73* /forum/post/16090867
> 
> *I need help with firmware update!* Well I've been using my Anthem D2V for about 3 weeks now and I'm trying to do my first firmware update. I'm not too sure how this is done. In Bob's posting #19852 he explains everything great but I don't get number (6). Do firmware install? How? I've tried for hours to figure this out. Anthems manual does not explain this either. It says follow directions on upload but I don't see anything on how to install this new firmware. Anthem's instructions assume that everyone is familiar with this process. It's a first me. I've currently have the 2.02 firmware on my D2V. I've uploaded the files and opened them on my desktop. My ARC now say's it is version 2.1 on the computer but when I upload my new room correction settings my unit still say's 2.02 on the screen. What am I doing wrong here?



There are two different parts to the software. There is "firmware", which is the software that runs inside the D2v itself, and there is the ARC application software, which runs on your Windows computer. When you run the ARC application, the end result is ARC settings that get Uploaded into the D2v where they are used by the firmware.


You have installed the ARC V2.1 application software on your PC. Good. The missing piece is to install the new, V2.04 firmware in your D2v.


To do that, download the D2v V2.04 firmware installer (labeled, "Latest D2v Software") from this page:

http://statement.anthemav.com/ 


What you will get is a Zip file. UnZip that file and you will get a folder. In the folder is a text file with information about the firmware and the install process, and a Windows application which is the installer itself.


When you run the installer application it will install the various portions of the new V2.04 D2v firmware into your D2v over the serial connection. The install process takes about 15 minutes.


When you run the installer, it will put up some instructions. If you have not already done the preliminary steps in those instructions, just exit the installer and run it again, later.


In particular you must do a Reload Factory Defaults prior to the firmware install, and you must make sure you have no powered source or display HDMI connections during the install. Be aware that many HDMI devices leave their HDMI connections powered even when the device is turned off. My recommendation is that you just remove wall power from all your source and display devices prior to the install.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

I'm wondering what to set the upscaler setting to in my PS3 so that the Anthem does the upscaling on DVD's? I thought it should be set to off, but in trying a regular DVD, the image is a reduced 4:3 image in the middle of my screen with black bars on all sides and the Anthem says the incoming signal is 480p. If I set it to normal or full size, the image appears the correct size, but the Anthem is saying 1080p. Is there no way of letting the Anthem do all the scaling?


Bob or anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## jclem

I've read here that it's best to let the superior processor in the Anthem do the work rather than the Dvd player, which makes sense. However, I'm still a bit confused. I have an SD Pioneer player that I've set to 'interlaced'. I think that's right, but I also have a Tosh HD-DVD and a Panny BR--they are set to "up to 1080p" or "1080p-24" for HD discs, but how about when I play an SD disc in either of those players? Should I go back into their menus and switch to 480i ? or do they do it automatically? Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16091511
> 
> 
> I'm wondering what to set the upscaler setting to in my PS3 so that the Anthem does the upscaling on DVD's? I thought it should be set to off, but in trying a regular DVD, the image is a reduced 4:3 image in the middle of my screen with black bars on all sides and the Anthem says the incoming signal is 480p. If I set it to normal or full size, the image appears the correct size, but the Anthem is saying 1080p. Is there no way of letting the Anthem do all the scaling?
> 
> 
> Bob or anyone have any suggestions?



The PS3 is incapable of HDMI 480i output. 480p is as low as it goes. For SD-DVD playback that means you have to live with the PS3's idea of how to de-interlace the 480i content coming off the disc -- which is not great.


That is one reason I don't recommend the PS3 as anything other than a Blu-Ray player. Pair it with another player for SD-DVD playback.


To use the PS3 for SD-DVD playback anyway, I recommend you set its BD/DVD upscaler to OFF. That will get you 480p output for SD-DVDs and also for SD "extras" from Blu-Ray discs.


In the Anthem, you will typically use Video Source Adjust > Crop Input "Auto" and then in Video Source Adjust > Scale Out use Anamorphic for wide screen SD content and Letter/Pillar Box for 4:3 content.


If you get double-wide pillar boxes so that that 4:3 content looks squeezed left to right then that means the PS3 has already generated pillar boxes for that content. So switch Video Source Adjust > Scale Out back to Anamorphic.


If you don't like having to make that manual adjustment in the Anthem then set the PS3's BD/DVD Upscaler to Normal and let the PS3 do both the de-interlacing and scaling of SD content (including adding pillar boxes to 4:3 content). Meanwhile, consider getting a different player for SD-DVDs.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/16091954
> 
> 
> I've read here that it's best to let the superior processor in the Anthem do the work rather than the Dvd player, which makes sense. However, I'm still a bit confused. I have an SD Pioneer player that I've set to 'interlaced'. I think that's right, but I also have a Tosh HD-DVD and a Panny BR--they are set to "up to 1080p" or "1080p-24" for HD discs, but how about when I play an SD disc in either of those players? Should I go back into their menus and switch to 480i ? or do they do it automatically? Thanks



You can find out what video you are getting from any source by pressing Select a few times on the Anthem remote to see the display of video input info. You can also go to the Video Source Adjust > Info panel for this.


Ideally for SD-DVD playback -- or for playback of SD "extras" content from Blu-Ray discs -- the player should be set to send HDMI 480i to the Anthem and the player should be set to believe it is talking to a 16:9 TV and to *NOT* generate pillar box bars around 4:3 SD content (as from old movies or non-HD TV programs sold on SD-DVD).


Let the Anthem do the de-interlacing and scaling, as well as the addition of pillar box bars to 4:3 content.


Now some Blu-Ray and HD DVD players have something like a "Source Direct" setting which will automatically switch to 480i output when playing SD content. Some, like the PS3 only go as low as 480p. Others have no such setting and thus you will need to switch output resolutions manually on them when playing SD content. If you don't then what you see will be the player's idea of how to de-interlace and scale SD content.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16092016
> 
> 
> The PS3 is incapable of HDMI 480i output. 480p is as low as it goes. For SD-DVD playback that means you have to live with the PS3's idea of how to de-interlace the 480i content coming off the disc -- which is not great.
> 
> 
> That is one reason I don't recommend the PS3 as anything other than a Blu-Ray player. Pair it with another player for SD-DVD playback.



With that said, what do you suggest for a SD-DVD, how is the oppo panning out?


I borrowed a PS3 last night to get familiar with it and ran a BluRay for the first time ever to test out my new 65" Plasma, before I get my D2v. I was astounded with the PQ on straight through with my receiver.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This is probably a good place to remind folks again that there are two different types of "wide screen" movies sold on SD-DVD.


The type you want will be labeled "anamorphic" or "enhanced for 16:9 TVs". Anamorphic SD-DVDs use all of the pixels in the 720x480 frame coming off the disc to hold movie content. Wide screen content on anamorphic discs is interpreted by the video processor (in the Anthem for folks reading this thread, in the display for other folks) as having pixels that are wider than they are tall. And that's why the 1.5 aspect ratio of the pixels coming off the disc (720/480 = 1.5) gets displayed as the 1.778 aspect ratio of the 16:9 TV (16/9 = 1.778).


The other type -- the type you don't want -- are SD-DVDs containing wide screen movies intended to be played on traditional, 4:3, televisions. These are labeled "letterboxed", and will also NOT have either of the two labels cited above.


Letterboxed wide screen movies are really 4:3 content that happens to have a wide screen movie embedded inside it. This is the same sort of thing that happens when you watch a wide screen movie on an SDTV channel. And the result is black bars around ALL FOUR sides of the movie. You've got the black bars left and right necessary to show the 4:3 content on your 16:9 TV without stretching it horizontally (which would distort the image -- circles look like wide ovals). And you've ALSO got the black bars top and bottom which were padding built into the content on disc when that wide screen movie was embedded in the 4:3 frame in the first place.


In the Anthem there is a workaround for Letterboxed wide screen movies. You can change Video Source Adjust > Crop Input to "16:9" and the Anthem will extract the 16:9 subset from inside that 4:3 video input frame. But the quality of the result is not as good as with Anamorphic wide screen movies that don't need this.


See the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling links in the first post of this thread for more details.


And for newbies, remember that even if you are playing anamorphic wide screen movies from SD-DVD or movies from Blu-Ray disc, it is normal for there to be black bars top and bottom. That's because even though your 16:9 TV is "wide screen", most movies are "wider than wide screen". Thus they have to be padded top and bottom to fill the 16:9 shape. If you stretched the movie vertically those black bars top and bottom would go away, but the movie would now be distorted -- circles look like tall ovals. Again, see the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling links for more details and to see what your options are for stretching or cropping the movie if you really want to.

--Bob


----------



## V7Sport73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16091025
> 
> 
> There are two different parts to the software. There is "firmware", which is the software that runs inside the D2v itself, and there is the ARC application software, which runs on your Windows computer. When you run the ARC application, the end result is ARC settings that get Uploaded into the D2v where they are used by the firmware.
> 
> 
> You have installed the ARC V2.1 application software on your PC. Good. The missing piece is to install the new, V2.04 firmware in your D2v.
> 
> 
> To do that, download the D2v V2.04 firmware installer (labeled, "Latest D2v Software") from this page:
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/
> 
> 
> What you will get is a Zip file. UnZip that file and you will get a folder. In the folder is a text file with information about the firmware and the install process, and a Windows application which is the installer itself.
> 
> 
> When you run the installer application it will install the various portions of the new V2.04 D2v firmware into your D2v over the serial connection. The install process takes about 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> When you run the installer, it will put up some instructions. If you have not already done the preliminary steps in those instructions, just exit the installer and run it again, later.
> 
> 
> In particular you must do a Reload Factory Defaults prior to the firmware install, and you must make sure you have no powered source or display HDMI connections during the install. Be aware that many HDMI devices leave their HDMI connections powered even when the device is turned off. My recommendation is that you just remove wall power from all your source and display devices prior to the install.
> 
> --Bob



Ok I've tried to do the install but the 1.33 software install does not see the unit. I can run the ARC just fine. I've turned on the flow control and still.. nothing?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16092098
> 
> 
> With that said, what do you suggest for a SD-DVD, how is the oppo panning out?
> 
> 
> I borrowed a PS3 last night to get familiar with it and ran a BluRay for the first time ever to test out my new 65" Plasma, before I get my D2v. I was astounded with the PQ on straight through with my receiver.



The PS3 is a VERY good Blu-Ray transport. Its weakness is SD content. It also won't de-interlace 1080i Blu-Ray content to 1080p which means you need to pair it with a video processor that does that well. Most good HDTVs will do a pretty good job of that. The D2v does a perfect job of that.


[1080i Blu-Ray content typically comes from "live concert" style Blu-Ray discs. Movies on Blu-Ray are typically on disc as 1080p/24, so they don't need any de-interlacing.]


So far the Oppo is doing fine for SD-DVD. There are still some bugs being worked on. I use Source Direct from the Oppo -- HDMI 480i to the D2v for SD content. But the de-interlacing and scaling built into the Oppo is excellent so you actually have a choice of doing it either way so long as your display uses one of the "standard" video resolutions as its "native" video resolution -- i.e., 720p or 1080p.


ETA: Up to now I've been using a Pioneer Elite DV59-avi for SD-DVD playback. I fully expect I will be retiring that and using the Oppo BDP-83 instead. Of course at the moment I still need both for testing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *V7Sport73* /forum/post/16092153
> 
> 
> Ok I've tried to do the install but the 1.33 software install does not see the unit. I can run the ARC just fine. I've turned on the flow control and still.. nothing?



I thought you said you had a new D2v and not one of the older, original D2 units?


You grabbed the wrong firmware installer. The V1.33 firmware installer is for the original D2 hardware -- not your new D2v hardware. Fortunately the V1.33 installer is smart enough not to try to install on the wrong hardware.


For the D2v you want the V2.04 firmware installer found in the "Latest D2v Software" link on the bottom of this page:

http://statement.anthemav.com/ 


--Bob


----------



## TJG55

To clarify:

I would NEVER violate the Anthem/Paradigm dealer agreement. I would only sell out of market with specific prior factory approval. Some situations can be an exception, this might be one. I have been a dealer for both for many, many moons and will continue to respect our contract.


Bob, ...."blast from the past" ? Were you ever here? After >35 yrs, we've seen a whole lot of guys in that time. Don't post too often, only when something of significence occurs but board is great.


Thomas J Gregory

Mr Toads Stereo/Video

Johnson City, Tn

423-929-1121

mrtoads.net
[email protected] 


Also, if you will check these charts. Studio 100s, ADP 590s, SA-15(in ceiling), Servo-15

Note severe dip 100-200hz in FR and FL... 8-10" out from rear wall, FL near a small entranceway, FL 2ft from corner....also all dip at 15hz and spike at 20hz.

Used ARC 2.0 1 1 Beta

first run at max 15k, second at 20k

Any clues?

 

ARC15K.doc 161.5k . file

 

ARC20K.doc 144k . file


----------



## TJG55

Does everyone know about the NEW Anthem PROJECTOR????

Be alert!

Should be a killer combo with an Anthem pre/pro and its video processing, you just know they have figured out an incredible synergistic system.

tjg


----------



## V7Sport73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16092202
> 
> 
> I thought you said you had a new D2v and not one of the older, original D2 units?
> 
> 
> You grabbed the wrong firmware installer. The V1.33 firmware installer is for the original D2 hardware -- not your new D2v hardware. Fortunately the V1.33 installer is smart enough not to try to install on the wrong hardware.
> 
> 
> For the D2v you want the V2.04 firmware installer found in the "Latest D2v Software" link on the bottom of this page:
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I did get the v1.33 from the website. I do have the new D2V. However the software installer doesn't seem to work. Everything else works fine. The ADC 2.1 is great and a real improvement over the prior version. I can to the live video settings. Everything is just fine until I try to do the v1.33 software update. I am trying to load off my laptop. It has Windows XP. I have to switch the 9-pin to a USB. I've reset the D2V to the factory defaults, disconnected all the HDMI's, turned the power off at the back, and still the software doesn't see the unit?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/16092273
> 
> 
> Also, if you will check these charts. Studio 100s, ADP 590s, SA-15(in ceiling), Servo-15
> 
> Note severe dip 100-200hz in FR and FL... 8-10" out from rear wall, FL near a small entranceway, FL 2ft from corner....also all dip at 15hz and spike at 20hz.
> 
> Used ARC 2.0 1 1 Beta
> 
> first run at max 15k, second at 20k
> 
> Any clues?



(I cherish my air of mystery so I won't elaborate further on blasts and pasts.







)


As to your charts the dip at 150Hz in LF/RF and the peak at 60Hz in RF look like pretty strong room response issues. Some bass traps may be needed if you can't reposition the speakers. You only need a couple dB of mellowing of that swing to get into the range where ARC can do complete correction, and at that frequency even inches can make a difference. Make sure you have doors and such opened/closed during Measurement the same way you will use them during listening. Even a door into a large closet can make a surprising amount of difference.


Now the dip at 15KHz is typical of speaker directionality at higher frequencies, but the sharp peak at 20KHz is suspicious. Even if your room is really hard and bright I wouldn't expect this much.


My first thought is that you have a problem with your mic placement. For example if you don't use the mic pointing straight up or if you place the mic too close to a speaker at some mic position you will get biased Measurements that will show up in the highest frequencies.


The mic should be placed at seated ear height. Use the same height for each mic position. The mic should be pointed straight up. The #1 position should be centered on the screen at the primary seating distance. Subsequent positions must alternate either side of #1. And no two positions, whether or not sequential, should be closer than 24 inches from each other.


Do not place the mic close to surfaces such as walls or seat backs. It is better to pick a mic height that is a few inches higher so that the tip clears all seat backs -- or use a position a foot closer to the screen to get the mic away from the seat back. Use positions that are 3 feet or more from any speaker to get out of the "near field" response of the speaker.


Next, consider the pointing of your speakers. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to the vertical pointing as many speakers have much odder vertical dispersion of high frequencies than their horizontal dispersion.


I also note that ARC has chosen a basic volume level of 70dB for your setup (about 5dB lower than normal). This might be due to the sweep tones being a little low in volume which can also bias results.


--------------------------------------------------------


Go through the preliminary steps to adjust that:


1) In Setup > Level Calibration, zero all lines.


2) Select Manual test mode in the first line.


3) In the next line (Test Level or Noise Level), adjust to get 75dB SPL using your Radio Shack SPL meter at the ARC #1 mic position -- pointed straight up, "C" weighting, Slow response.


4) Now go down to a subwoofer line. Leave that line at zero. Adjust the volume knob on your subwoofer to yield 75dB SPL measured the same way. Ball park adjustments are fine for both of these.


ARC will use the Test/Noise Level line to set the volume of its test sweep tones, and the volume adjustment you've just made in the subwoofer insures ARC won't have to do anything tricky to deal with the sub being very different in volume from the main speakers.


------------------------------------------------


If any of this rings a bell, adjust it and re-Measure looking for improvement in that 20KHz peak. Then see if you still have the 150Hz dip and tackle that next.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *V7Sport73* /forum/post/16092397
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I did get the v1.33 from the website. I do have the new D2V. However the software installer doesn't seem to work. Everything else works fine. The ADC 2.1 is great and a real improvement over the prior version. I can to the live video settings. Everything is just fine until I try to do the v1.33 software update. I am trying to load off my laptop. It has Windows XP. I have to switch the 9-pin to a USB. I've reset the D2V to the factory defaults, disconnected all the HDMI's, turned the power off at the back, and still the software doesn't see the unit?



Take a deep breath and think about what you are doing.


There are two DIFFERENT firmware installers. The V1.33 installer you are trying to use is the WRONG ONE. It is for hardware you do not own -- the original D2 unit. You are very lucky it is smart enough to refuse to install because if you actually found a way to install V1.33 firmware in your D2v it would not work! Your D2v would be dead.


So find your downloaded copies of the V1.33 firmware installer and delete them from your computer. You do not need it. You do not want it.


-------------------------------------------------


Now go to this page in your web browser:

http://statement.anthemav.com/ 


Ignore the big buttons labeled D2, D1, P2/P5, A2/A5.


BELOW those big buttons you will find a line of links reading:

*Full Info on D2v Coming Soon: D2v Product Info | Latest D2v Software | D2v Owners Manual*


Use the "Latest D2v Software" link on that line to download the firmware installer you ACTUALLY want -- the V2.04 firmware installer.


UnZip the V2.04 firmware installer. Note that the folder that results says it is for the D2v. Look inside that folder. Note that the installer application says it is for the V2.04 firmware for the D2v.


That's the installer to use.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *V7Sport73* /forum/post/16092397
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I did get the v1.33 from the website. I do have the new D2V. However the software installer doesn't seem to work. Everything else works fine. The ADC 2.1 is great and a real improvement over the prior version. I can to the live video settings. Everything is just fine until I try to do the v1.33 software update. I am trying to load off my laptop. It has Windows XP. I have to switch the 9-pin to a USB. I’ve reset the D2V to the factory defaults, disconnected all the HDMI’s, turned the power off at the back, and still the software doesn’t see the unit?


*JUST CLICK ON THIS LINK*


As Bob SAYS - Delete the version 1.33 files.


----------



## V7Sport73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16092585
> 
> 
> Take a deep breath and think about what you are doing.
> 
> 
> There are two DIFFERENT firmware installers. The V1.33 installer you are trying to use is the WRONG ONE. It is for hardware you do not own -- the original D2 unit. You are very lucky it is smart enough to refuse to install because if you actually found a way to install V1.33 firmware in your D2v it would not work! Your D2v would be dead.
> 
> 
> So find your downloaded copies of the V1.33 firmware installer and delete them from your computer. You do not need it. You do not want it.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now go to this page in your web browser:
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/
> 
> 
> Ignore the big buttons labeled D2, D1, P2/P5, A2/A5.
> 
> 
> BELOW those big buttons you will find a line of links reading:
> 
> *Full Info on D2v Coming Soon: D2v Product Info | Latest D2v Software | D2v Owners Manual*
> 
> 
> Use the "Latest D2v Software" link on that line to download the firmware installer you ACTUALLY want -- the V2.04 firmware installer.
> 
> 
> UnZip the V2.04 firmware installer. Note that the folder that results says it is for the D2v. Look inside that folder. Note that the installer application says it is for the V2.04 firmware for the D2v.
> 
> 
> That's the installer to use.
> 
> --Bob



My god I fell so stupid. Thank you Bob! Everything is fine now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *V7Sport73* /forum/post/16092652
> 
> 
> My god I fell so stupid. Thank you Bob! Everything is fine now.



Suddenly! As if by logic!










--Bob


----------



## TJG55

B

have set up >25 ARCs and have never seen the highend peaks. ADPs are 2ft above ear level. Tried moving fronts back against wall to get midbass peak so arc could work better with it, this was on 20k run. Obviously know about mike direction and placement but will retry. Never hurts to recover the basics. what about trying another mike? As a dealer I do have others.

thanks, as always

tjg

BTW, will contact a few guys at factory...you should be on retainer. I've learned a great deal from you. Maybe they need another trainer? These are truly complicated beasts to set up fully (easy to use thereafter though) and YOUR input has been invaluable!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/16092708
> 
> 
> B
> 
> have set up >25 ARCs and have never seen the highend peaks. ADPs are 2ft above ear level. Tried moving fronts back against wall to get midbass peak so arc could work better with it, this was on 20k run. Obviously know about mike direction and placement but will retry. Never hurts to recover the basics. what about trying another mike? As a dealer I do have others.
> 
> thanks, as always
> 
> tjg
> 
> BTW, will contact a few guys at factory...you should be on retainer. I've learned a great deal from you. Maybe they need another trainer? These are truly complicated beasts to set up fully (easy to use thereafter though) and YOUR input has been invaluable!



It is very important that you use *ONLY* the mic that came with this specific Anthem unit's ARC kit.


The ARC license is keyed to the serial number of the Anthem unit. There is also a file of mic calibration data unique to the mic that came with that ARC kit. The serial number stuff will only let you use the calibration file that pairs with the license file for that unit's serial number.


But, and this is the kicker, there is no way for ARC to know if you accidentally use the wrong ARC mic!


ARC can tell that you have an ARC mic connected on the USB -- it knows an ARC mic from any other mic. But there is no electronic serial number it can read from the mic. So if you have more than one ARC mic and accidentally use the wrong one, the ARC application can't protect you. And you will get bogus results because the calibration data file being used is not for that mic!


Go to Windows > Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction. Find the pair of files in there with names made up of numbers. The numbers are the serial number of the Anthem and the serial number of the ARC mic for that Anthem. If you happen to have more than one such pair of files in there (since you are dealing with more than one unit), be sure you are looking at the correct pair of files matched to the serial number of the Anthem you are trying to Measure. Now verify that the mic serial number included in the file name for those two files (the ones that also match the unit serial number) matches the serial number sticky label on the mic itself.


If not, go find the correct ARC mic that pairs with that Anthem unit.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Hey Bob, and anyone else that may have an opinion (except of course Lordoftherings who clearly gets annoyed by theses kinds of questions) on speaker placement.


I don't have I diagram of my room. It's far from ideal for a home theater but it's what I got. When I first ran Arc Bob noticed my surround speakers weren't great. I'm hoping with these pictures will you understand what I'm working with. You can see how the windows and that gun cabinet wreak havoc on where I can wall mount them. I had them on stands but my little guy is now 14 months and that's just not an option.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


There's 13 feet between my front speakers. My main listening is the lazy boy and the love seat. Would you suggest toeing in the front mains?


I was also considering moving the sub from where it is (just behind and to the right of the love seat) and putting it in front of the right main speaker right up by the couch.


Any opinions would be appreciated.


----------



## TJG55

I definately am using the correct mike, other was just an idea. will try to run another set of measurements this weekend, but ....taxes, you know. gotta get that first.


----------



## Flugel

Well, I received and installed my D2v, A5 and Martin Logan Spires yesterday. Before I hooked anything up I upped to firmware 2.04 on the D2v. I haven't run ARC-1 yet (waiting for everything to break in), although everything sounds AMAZING already!


I am having one problem, though. When I set my Blu-ray player to output 24 fps, and have the Anthem set to send it that way (1080p24) to my Pioneer 6010FD TV (with Advanced mode activated to receive 24fps & output it as 72fps), every few minutes or so the video gets jaggy, like it's not displaying every frame. Pausing and unpausing seems to fix it for a while. Switching to 60 fps output from the Anthem eliminates the problem, so the source of the problem is not the Blu-ray player, but either the Anthem's 24 fps output or the TV's processing of the 24 fps signal.


Any thoughts? I'd appreciate them very much.


Thanks!


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/9556938
> 
> 
> The instructions regarding how and when to use Frame Lock in the Video Source Adjust menu portion of the Anthem V1.1x manual really say it as best as it can be said.
> 
> 
> If your display doesn't accept /24Hz video input (i.e., film rate input) and offer the option of displaying it at a refresh rate which is a multiple of /24Hz, then leave Frame Lock in it's factory default setting of OFF. Frame Lock offers nothing for that very common type of display. This would include all traditional TVs and MOST of the HDTVs out there.
> 
> 
> If you have one of the few displays out there which can accept film rate video input and produce judder free imagery by displaying it at a film rate refresh rate then you may want to experiment with Frame Lock = Auto.
> 
> 
> To do this, FIRST set your default video output frame rate to /24Hz (or /48Hz using the custom options in Live Video Settings Editor). For most such displays today, this will be 1080p/24Hz or 1080p/48Hz. Then use the Frame Lock = Auto setting to automatically change that output frame rate back to /60Hz when viewing video based content (TV shows or DVDs of TV shows, and also DVDs of some computer generated animated movies that have been re-mastered "direct to DVD"). With Frame Lock = Auto, the Anthem senses the incoming frame rate and tracks it for output.
> 
> 
> With Frame Lock = Auto, a source that sends /24Hz video, such as a 1080p/24Hz HD-DVD or Blue Ray player, will have that video go through the Anthem and remain at /24Hz.
> 
> 
> So normal TV, and /24Hz output devices all work automatically for you.
> 
> 
> However, when watching a film-stock based movie on TV or standard DVD, change to Frame Lock = OFF! This turns off the automatic tracking of the input frame rate, and since you have set your default output frame rate to /24Hz the Anthem will now convert the 30Hz input from the TV channel or DVD to 24Hz output by detecting and removing the replicated fields that are already inserted into that film-based content to raise it up to the 30Hz TV rate needed by normal TVs.
> 
> 
> For TV inputs then, you would likely start with Frame Lock = Auto and temporarily change it to OFF when watching a movie. For standard DVD inputs you would likely start with Frame Lock = OFF and temporarily change it to AUTO when watching a DVD of a TV show. For a suitable HD-DVD or Blue Ray player you would likely start with Frame Lock = Auto and temporarily change it to OFF when watching a STANDARD DVD which happens to also be of a TV show -- with the player's output set to 480i for standard DVD playback.
> 
> 
> There's a shortcut to alter the Frame Lock setting available under the Mode key on the Anthem remote.
> 
> 
> Again, MOST TVs and displays out there right now can not take advantage of the Anthem's Frame Lock feature, so just leave it OFF.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I'm trying to get my head around this "Frame Lock" feature. I'm not quite sure I yet fully understand it. I have a PS3 for blu-rays and the display is a Pioneer Elite 151 which has 1080p 24hz, 60 hz and 3x24 = 72hz capability.


In the simplest way you can put it, what does frame lock do for me and should I have it set to auto for my blu-ray input on the Anthem?


----------



## V7Sport73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16092928
> 
> 
> Hey Bob, and anyone else that may have an opinion (except of course Lordoftherings who clearly gets annoyed by theses kinds of questions) on speaker placement.
> 
> 
> I don't have I diagram of my room. It's far from ideal for a home theater but it's what I got. When I first ran Arc Bob noticed my surround speakers weren't great. I'm hoping with these pictures will you understand what I'm working with. You can see how the windows and that gun cabinet wreak havoc on where I can wall mount them. I had them on stands but my little guy is now 14 months and that's just not an option.
> 
> 
> 
> I was also considering moving the sub from where it is (just behind and to the right of the love seat) and putting it in front of the right main speaker right up by the couch.
> 
> 
> Any opinions would be appreciated.



Your main speakers should be at least 12" from the back wall. Also they should be toed in. I would have them firing at the armrests on your center love seat. With such a long run, make sure you are using a XLR line to your sub. Not RCA. You are in a pretty normal situation as far as room acrostics. It's real hard to get your average living room set up just right. I don't think that there to much you else you can do.


----------



## jclem

OK, I was just trying to organize things. I've got v2.04 and Arc 2.1 loaded and working fine on my D2v, so that's all good. I just read that you should get rid of v1.33, so the anthem file folder shortcuts that were on my desktop that had v1.33 went to the recycle bin. (I still have the Arc 2.1 "flag" shortcut on my desktop.) Next I wanted to work with 'setup editor' (not LVSE 'cuz that's already backed up), do some adjustments and then back it up. Well, I went to 'start' > 'all programs' > anthem and all that's there is 'Manuals', rs232 commands and Arc.exe. What happened to all the other files and stuff that came with the v1.33 group--the 7.3kb file?

And when I get it back, will I be able to work with setup editor? I do remember seeing something about it not working in 1.31.

Obviously, this computer stuff confuses me, so please be gentle. Thanks


Ha, who says there are no stupid questions??!!


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *V7Sport73* /forum/post/16093824
> 
> 
> Your main speakers should be at least 12" from the back wall. Also they should be toed in. I would have them firing at the armrests on your center love seat. With such a long run, make sure you are using a XLR line to your sub. Not RCA. You are in a pretty normal situation as far as room acrostics. It's real hard to get your average living room set up just right. I don't think that there to much you else you can do.



Hey, thanks for the input.










I have run XLR to the sub. Do you think it would make any difference moving it to the front of the seating.....


I'm going to upload the latest version of ARC shortly. I'm going to try toeing the speakers in.


----------



## V7Sport73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16093986
> 
> 
> Hey, thanks for the input.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have run XLR to the sub. Do you think it would make any difference moving it to the front of the seating.....
> 
> 
> I'm going to upload the latest version of ARC shortly. I'm going to try toeing the speakers in.



I alway like to have mine in front but in the photos I think the sub is good where it is at. Run the ARC and look at the test results for the sub. If they are way off then I'd move it.


----------



## jclem

Ohdee,

I'm not sure what kind of wiring access you have, but I'd suggest getting some White side surround speakers, because they'd blend better with the light walls and mount the right one maybe beneath the sconce or up on the panelled pipe? chase and the left one on the chase or the wall around the corner from the gun cabinet and direct it toward the couches.

Maybe ceiling speakers if you can fish the wires. Those would be the most unobtrusive.

Your room is certainly deep enough to support the rear speakers. You can leave them where they are just make them white and point them forward toward the couches.

You obviously have a "combo" room, as do I, so "aesthetics"(aka WAF) are an issue. That is why I am suggesting white speakers.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/16094127
> 
> 
> Ohdee,
> 
> I'm not sure what kind of wiring access you have, but I'd suggest getting some White side surround speakers, because they'd blend better with the light walls and mount the right one maybe beneath the sconce or up on the panelled pipe? chase and the left one on the chase or the wall around the corner from the gun cabinet and direct it toward the couches.
> 
> Maybe ceiling speakers if you can fish the wires. Those would be the most unobtrusive.
> 
> Your room is certainly deep enough to support the rear speakers. You can leave them where they are just make them white and point them forward toward the couches.
> 
> You obviously have a "combo" room, as do I, so "aesthetics"(aka WAF) are an issue. That is why I am suggesting white speakers.



In ceiling could be done because the floor joists run the length of the room. I'm sure fishing the wires through the ceiling would be fun. Below the sconce would be the ideal spot. The only problem is then I'd have to take out the right doors on the gun cabinet (or im my case liquor cabinet). To be honest with you that's what I wanted to do. Finish it off with oak. My wife really didn't want me to do that. She though a big chunk of oak where two of those glass doors are now would look funny!


I know Paradigm makes in ceiling speakers. Maybe they'd have some that would match well with my Studio line. I'll look into it.


Right now... all I have is a five channel Bryston amp. I think I'd hold off until I can pick up a second Bryston 4bsst amp for 7.1. Those ADP's are 800.00 a piece and I'd hate to box them up after getting in ceiling speakers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/16093952
> 
> 
> OK, I was just trying to organize things. I've got v2.04 and Arc 2.1 loaded and working fine on my D2v, so that's all good. I just read that you should get rid of v1.33, so the anthem file folder shortcuts that were on my desktop that had v1.33 went to the recycle bin. (I still have the Arc 2.1 "flag" shortcut on my desktop.) Next I wanted to work with 'setup editor' (not LVSE 'cuz that's already backed up), do some adjustments and then back it up. Well, I went to 'start' > 'all programs' > anthem and all that's there is 'Manuals', rs232 commands and Arc.exe. What happened to all the other files and stuff that came with the v1.33 group--the 7.3kb file?
> 
> And when I get it back, will I be able to work with setup editor? I do remember seeing something about it not working in 1.31.
> 
> Obviously, this computer stuff confuses me, so please be gentle. Thanks
> 
> 
> Ha, who says there are no stupid questions??!!



The Utilities will now be found in a folder that comes with the ARC 2.1 install kit. There's also a folder of updated manuals in there.


The old Setup Editor utility no longer exists. You can use the new Settings Backup utility to save and restore Setup menu settings via a PC file.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16093504
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I'm trying to get my head around this "Frame Lock" feature. I'm not quite sure I yet fully understand it. I have a PS3 for blu-rays and the display is a Pioneer Elite 151 which has 1080p 24hz, 60 hz and 3x24 = 72hz capability.
> 
> 
> In the simplest way you can put it, what does frame lock do for me and should I have it set to auto for my blu-ray input on the Anthem?



Frame Lock causes the frame rate of the output to track that of the input.


If you enable 1080p/24 output from the PS3 this is one way to get the Anthem to send 1080p/24 to your display. Use it with a 1080p/60 Video Output configuration and it will switch to 1080p/24 when the source is /24. The other method (not using Frame Lock) is to set up two video output configurations -- one for 1080p/60 and one for 1080p/24 and set up source definitions to use the right one. You can also switch between your Video Output configurations using a shortcut on the remote.


The main thing you need to know is that 1080p/24 can not work properly if the content was originally recorded at video frame rates (30 or 60fps) as there is no good way to decide which frames to discard. If you try it you will get stuttering.


The next thing you need to know is that even movie content -- stuff originally recorded at film frame rate (24fps) -- gets put on SD-DVD and SDTV and HDTV broadcasts after being raised to video rates via the telecine process. And the D2 firmware does not handle 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 rate conversion correctly even for such films. It will lose track of the "film cadence" and again you will get stuttering.


So basically the only time you would want to use 1080p/24 output is when playing a Blu-Ray movie since they are on disc as 1080p/24 to begin with. Make sure your Blu-Ray player is set to output 1080p/24 for those. In the PS3 that is the Auto setting for 1080p/24.


------------------------------------


For D2v and AVM 50v owners: The Frame Lock feature is disabled in the V2.04 firmware as it is about to be replaced with a new reverse telecine feature that does similar stuff, better. For the moment, use separate Video Output configurations.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16094244
> 
> 
> In ceiling could be done because the floor joists run the length of the room. I'm sure fishing the wires through the ceiling would be fun. Below the sconce would be the ideal spot. The only problem is then I'd have to take out the right doors on the gun cabinet (or im my case liquor cabinet). To be honest with you that's what I wanted to do. Finish it off with oak. My wife really didn't want me to do that. She though a big chunk of oak where two of those glass doors are now would look funny!
> 
> 
> I know Paradigm makes in ceiling speakers. Maybe they'd have some that would match well with my Studio line. I'll look into it.
> 
> 
> Right now... all I have is a five channel Bryston amp. I think I'd hold off until I can pick up a second Bryston 4bsst amp for 7.1. Those ADP's are 800.00 a piece and I'd hate to box them up after getting in ceiling speakers.



OhDee,

In a 5.1 speaker configuration, those surround speakers are supposed to be side surrounds not rear surrounds.


If you are going to move them, move them just behind your back row of seating. You might be able to mount the speaker on the hallway side on that wall that sticks out next to the gun rack -- i.e., at 90 degrees to that wall.


At the very least those surrounds need to be pointed into the listening area.


Your sub is so close to the seating that you are in the "near field" of the sub -- which alters what it sounds like. That wall space to the stairway side of your fireplace is a more appropriate distance from the seating, but of course that's not good if you use the fireplace a lot (you don't want to toast your subwoofer). It might be better to move the sub BACK a few feet rather than positioning it adjacent to the other chair end near your RF speaker.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Flugel* /forum/post/16093105
> 
> 
> Well, I received and installed my D2v, A5 and Martin Logan Spires yesterday. Before I hooked anything up I upped to firmware 2.04 on the D2v. I haven't run ARC-1 yet (waiting for everything to break in), although everything sounds AMAZING already!
> 
> 
> I am having one problem, though. When I set my Blu-ray player to output 24 fps, and have the Anthem set to send it that way (1080p24) to my Pioneer 6010FD TV (with Advanced mode activated to receive 24fps & output it as 72fps), every few minutes or so the video gets jaggy, like it's not displaying every frame. Pausing and unpausing seems to fix it for a while. Switching to 60 fps output from the Anthem eliminates the problem, so the source of the problem is not the Blu-ray player, but either the Anthem's 24 fps output or the TV's processing of the 24 fps signal.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts? I'd appreciate them very much.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Blu-Ray discs come with two types of HD content -- 1080p/24 and 1080i/60. The 1080i/60 stuff is video based content. If you force 1080p/24 output for that it is bound to look incorrect. So make sure your setting on the player is only producing 1080p/24 output for movies -- i.e., stuff on disc as 1080p/24. And make sure the Anthem is only sending 1080p/24 to the display when you have 1080p/24 input from the player.


SD "extras" on Blu-Ray discs are 480i/60, and even if they were originally film based, they have been raised to video rates before being put on disc. They too should be output as 1080p/60 (both from the player and from the Anthem).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/16093088
> 
> 
> I definately am using the correct mike, other was just an idea. will try to run another set of measurements this weekend, but ....taxes, you know. gotta get that first.



OK.


Reconsider mic height and speaker pointing for your next Measurement pass.


If you've done other Measurements in that same room with these speakers, and they were not showing these problems, then give Anthem tech support a call.

--Bob


----------



## Flugel

Bob,


I was watching movie content, which should work well in 1080p24. I was aware of the frame rate for video-based content (and many extras), which was why I had set up a 1080p60 video output on the Anthem (and set up a second Blu-ray for Video mode).


Knowing that I was watching 1080p24-appropriate content, what are your thoughts?


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16094411
> 
> 
> OhDee,
> 
> In a 5.1 speaker configuration, those surround speakers are supposed to be side surrounds not rear surrounds.
> 
> 
> If you are going to move them, move them just behind your back row of seating. You might be able to mount the speaker on the hallway side on that wall that sticks out next to the gun rack -- i.e., at 90 degrees to that wall.
> 
> 
> At the very least those surrounds need to be pointed into the listening area.
> 
> 
> Your sub is so close to the seating that you are in the "near field" of the sub -- which alters what it sounds like. That wall space to the stairway side of your fireplace is a more appropriate distance from the seating, but of course that's not good if you use the fireplace a lot (you don't want to toast your subwoofer). It might be better to move the sub BACK a few feet rather than positioning it adjacent to the other chair end near your RF speaker.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob!


The only good thing about that room is the house is a four level split. I have a three foot crawl space under that room. That means I can easily run cables anywhere I want. I can move the sub back or move it to the wall by the fireplace no problem. I left it where it was for now. I toed the fronts in and uploaded the latest version of Arc.


It sounds awesome. I don't know if it's better than before because it was awesome before but it certainly isn't worse.


Half hour of The Dark Knight and my ears are hurting so mission accomplished!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Flugel* /forum/post/16094940
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I was watching movie content, which should work well in 1080p24. I was aware of the frame rate for video-based content (and many extras), which was why I had set up a 1080p60 video output on the Anthem (and set up a second Blu-ray for Video mode).
> 
> 
> Knowing that I was watching 1080p24-appropriate content, what are your thoughts?



Go to the Video Source Adjust > Info panel. Does it say you are receiving 1080p/23.97 from the player? What does it show for video output resolution and frame rate to your display? Let's see if there is simply a setup error first.


I don't know enough about your display to know if there is something special you have to do there. I've heard there are some settings in the Pioneers that can disable their ability to accept 1080p/24 input, but I don't know the details.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16094391
> 
> 
> Frame Lock causes the frame rate of the output to track that of the input.
> 
> 
> If you enable 1080p/24 output from the PS3 this is one way to get the Anthem to send 1080p/24 to your display. Use it with a 1080p/60 Video Output configuration and it will switch to 1080p/24 when the source is /24. The other method (not using Frame Lock) is to set up two video output configurations -- one for 1080p/60 and one for 1080p/24 and set up source definitions to use the right one. You can also switch between your Video Output configurations using a shortcut on the remote.
> 
> 
> The main thing you need to know is that 1080p/24 can not work properly if the content was originally recorded at video frame rates (30 or 60fps) as there is no good way to decide which frames to discard. If you try it you will get stuttering.
> 
> 
> The next thing you need to know is that even movie content -- stuff originally recorded at film frame rate (24fps) -- gets put on SD-DVD and SDTV and HDTV broadcasts after being raised to video rates via the telecine process. And the D2 firmware does not handle 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 rate conversion correctly even for such films. It will lose track of the "film cadence" and again you will get stuttering.
> 
> 
> So basically the only time you would want to use 1080p/24 output is when playing a Blu-Ray movie since they are on disc as 1080p/24 to begin with. Make sure your Blu-Ray player is set to output 1080p/24 for those. In the PS3 that is the Auto setting for 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> For D2v and AVM 50v owners: The Frame Lock feature is disabled in the V2.04 firmware as it is about to be replaced with a new reverse telecine feature that does similar stuff, better. For the moment, use separate Video Output configurations.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I'm still running the old non "v" gear.


Currently, I have my Anthems output config for the PS3 set to 24 Hz and I have the frame lock on.


For my satellite input, I am using the an output config of 60 Hz with frame lock off.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16095258
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I'm still running the old non "v" gear



I understand. I just put in that extra comment since we have new D2v and AVM 50v people here now.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16095289
> 
> 
> I understand. I just put in that extra comment since we have new D2v and AVM 50v people here now.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks...I just added how I have the Anthem configured to my previous thread.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16094244
> 
> 
> In ceiling could be done because the floor joists run the length of the room. I'm sure fishing the wires through the ceiling would be fun. Below the sconce would be the ideal spot. The only problem is then I'd have to take out the right doors on the gun cabinet (or im my case liquor cabinet). To be honest with you that's what I wanted to do. Finish it off with oak. My wife really didn't want me to do that. She though a big chunk of oak where two of those glass doors are now would look funny!
> 
> 
> I know Paradigm makes in ceiling speakers. Maybe they'd have some that would match well with my Studio line. I'll look into it.
> 
> 
> Right now... all I have is a five channel Bryston amp. I think I'd hold off until I can pick up a second Bryston 4bsst amp for 7.1. Those ADP's are 800.00 a piece and I'd hate to box them up after getting in ceiling speakers.



Ohdee,


Paradigm does make some nice in ceiling speakers that would match well...and they are installed flush but are set at a 30 degree angle which is nice. If you your sub is front firing and your front cabinet is sturdy you might want to consider placing the sub in the front far left or far right canbinet space. Simply remove cabinet door, cut it out and replace the cut out with speaker cloth. Isolate the sub as much as possible to remove any vibration issues. This assumes your sub is front firing and will fit insided the cabinet without touching the cabinet (except for the feet).


I agree about toeing in your front L and Rs. Also, if you can, move your center channel speaker to the front edge of your counter top on which it sits.


----------



## Flugel

Bob,

Your instincts were absolutely correct. My cr*ppy Sony 301 BR player is still outputting 1080p60 even though it is set to output 1080p24. What a piece of garbage! I can't wait for the Oppo to be released! Thanks for your assistance.


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16092928
> 
> 
> Hey Bob, and anyone else that may have an opinion (except of course Lordoftherings who clearly gets annoyed by theses kinds of questions) on speaker placement.
> 
> 
> I don't have I diagram of my room. It's far from ideal for a home theater but it's what I got. When I first ran Arc Bob noticed my surround speakers weren't great. I'm hoping with these pictures will you understand what I'm working with. You can see how the windows and that gun cabinet wreak havoc on where I can wall mount them. I had them on stands but my little guy is now 14 months and that's just not an option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's 13 feet between my front speakers. My main listening is the lazy boy and the love seat. Would you suggest toeing in the front mains?
> 
> 
> I was also considering moving the sub from where it is (just behind and to the right of the love seat) and putting it in front of the right main speaker right up by the couch.
> 
> 
> Any opinions would be appreciated.



Hi Ohdee,


Now that you bring some excellent pictures showing your setup, I know exactly the perfect toe in and positions of all your speakers to obtain maximum audio performance from your room and system setup.


Also, I am not annoyed at all by these type of questions. I just made a little joke, that's all.

(My sense of humor mix with a delicate approach to make sure that I was not interfering with the Anthem thread, which the man in charge, "Bob", acknowledged in a positive way.)

And on the contrary, it is with great pleasure that I love to help anyone, like you can clearly deduct by the detailed informations of my first post, regarding your question.


I have expertise with architecture and room acoustics.

If you are interested, and it does not interfer with the flow of the discussions, it will be with great pleasure that I will give you the best recommendation for your particular situation.

Just ask me, and I will oblige.

Last thing: you won't regret it, to the contrary, you will Thank me in a big way for my intelligent and well calculated expert recommendations.


Regards,


________ Bob


Note: I already read the recommendations of the other members, and I found many advices that do not reflect your best interest soundwise. Some of them were fine then, but you need a little more tweaking than that; trust me, I am a professional. I am also Canadian, and I own many Paradigm speakers in my own setup.


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16094348
> 
> 
> The Utilities will now be found in a folder that comes with the ARC 2.1 install kit. There's also a folder of updated manuals in there.
> 
> 
> The old Setup Editor utility no longer exists. You can use the new Settings Backup utility to save and restore Setup menu settings via a PC file.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I had found that 'settings backup' folder, but that just does a backup, is there no longer a way to work on settings on the pc and then download them? Was that "The old Setup Editor utility that no longer exists" ? If so, it's curious that they eliminated it. Seems like it's a bit easier to do everything on the pc--like with setting up universal remotes. Oh well. Thanks


----------



## jclem

Ohdee, Well, now that "the Lord expert" has piped in, my suggestions are probably moot, but if you did want to put the left side surround where the gun/liquor cabinet is, it should probably be an in-wall because that's where people walk and they'd bump into an on-wall speaker. Next, now this would be a lot more work, but rather than "the big chunk of oak" which your wife didn't like, lose 1/4 of the cabinet and make it a wall (I'd end it where the panelled pipe chase ends), paint it like the rest of the walls and recess an in-wall speaker.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16076370
> 
> 
> The Dark Knight Blu-Ray is a disc that I believe has been known to give some decoders fits -- audio drop outs in particular. I don't know if the reason has been nailed down yet. But if this was your first time playing that copy then the problem may be in the audio decoder. Were you having your Vista machine do the decoding to LPCM? Do you have another player you can try with that disc to see if the problem is with your Vista setup?
> 
> 
> I think this is much more likely to turn out to be a playback issue as opposed to an ARC V2.1 issue.
> 
> 
> You are running a D2 as I recall, so D2v firmware issues would not be relevant.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you have a subwoofer configured, no LFE content goes to the front speakers even if you have explicitly identified the front speakers as "full range".
> 
> 
> If you DON'T have a subwoofer configured, then LFE content goes to the front speakers -- which are forced to "full range".
> 
> 
> LFE content has higher dynamics than the normal LF/RF channel content of course but either one of them is capable of very high volume. There is no specific volume limiter in the Anthem to clip high volume output that's actually in the content. And of course there's no way for the Anthem to know that the audio input might be incorrect due to a faulty audio decoder.
> 
> 
> There was even a known problem with many DTS-HD MA decoders last year known as the DTS-HD M A-Bomb which caused some DTS-HD MA tracks to generate loud bangs. Onkyo and Yamaha decoding receivers in particular were badly bitten by this (since fixed by firmware updates).
> 
> --Bob



"Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on ME."


Well, Bob, with all your good advices I finally "looked in the right place".

It was my Auzentech audio card that, for the second time (first time was last year), almost burnt my delicate speakers again.

I forgot about the glitch with their drivers.

I'll explain. Every time (almost) you upgrade their drivers under Vista, it somehow set your speaker configuration to 2.0/2.1 speakers.

And this is hidden in their Auzentech control panel.

Vista's sound control panel still showed 5.1 analog out and that is what fooled me.

The first time it happened to me it blowed 2 of my tweeters and 2 of high-mid woofers. Hopefully they were still under warranty so since they could not explain what happened they just changed them.

And now it happened again, after I upgraded the drivers 2 weeks ago without going through all the settings again.

Now all is ok and my HTPC is fine tuned again. I played that loud part of Dark Knight again and this time it was flawless. I just laughed at how I saw the whole movie (and not any movie







) with a 2.1 setting and the other speakers not exactly working.


Good ending.


Thank you anyway.


----------



## J. FRICANO

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
There's still something screwy going on with the bass and low-midrange output from LF/RF. LF is worse than RF.


The peak at 40Hz alone might be explained away as an unusually severe room resonance, but the gradual roll off of LF between 100Hz and 500Hz, taken together with that peak at 40Hz, is just not right.


Play some content and put your ear up close to each driver in both those speakers and make sure each driver is putting out sound.


If you can't spot anything wrong in the speaker setup or driver function, you are going to have to deal with the tougher task of changing how those two speakers couple to the room. This can be done by shifting them a bit (even inches matter in the lower frequencies) or by adding "bass trap" room treatments that cut down bass reflection from surfaces which contribute to room resonances and cancellation nulls.


A problem in your Amp is less likely but you can test that by temporarily switching the LF/RF amp output feeds with the LS/RS amp output feeds (i.e., swap the amp used by those two pairs) and re-Measuring with ARC.

--Bob
Hello Bob,

I did as you suggested and tried rearranging the front speakers and re-aimed them and re-measured. Results below. Thew room gain is somewhat lower than in previous ARC versions but it is sounding pretty good. Please share your thoughts. Thank you agian for being such an INVALUABLE ASSET to this forum. Thanks again, John Fricano.

 

Doc1 16k.doc 100k . file

 

Doc2 16k.doc 90.5k . file

 

Doc3 16k.doc 89k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/16097388
> 
> 
> Bob, I had found that 'settings backup' folder, but that just does a backup, is there no longer a way to work on settings on the pc and then download them? Was that "The old Setup Editor utility that no longer exists" ? If so, it's curious that they eliminated it. Seems like it's a bit easier to do everything on the pc--like with setting up universal remotes. Oh well. Thanks



You can still manipulate Video Source Adjust menu settings from the PC using the Live Video Settings Editor utility.


But there is no utility, at the moment, for viewing or changing Setup menu settings from the PC. The old Setup Editor application is obsolete -- they didn't keep up with changes in the Setup menu as new firmware releases came out.


It's other use -- backing up Setup menu settings to a PC file -- has been taken over by the new Settings Backup utility.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/16097856
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> I did as you suggested and tried rearranging the front speakers and re-aimed them and re-measured. Results below. Thew room gain is somewhat lower than in previous ARC versions but it is sounding pretty good. Please share your thoughts. Thank you agian for being such an INVALUABLE ASSET to this forum. Thanks again, John Fricano.



Very good! You are quite close now.


I see you dropped Max EQ Frequency target to 16KHz. You seem to be getting good results at the highest frequencies anyway so that makes sense.


You still have that big swing between 40Hz and 150Hz in LF -- and that's what's causing ARC to see the room as having such a small room gain -- but you have cleaned that up just enough that ARC is willing to believe your front speakers are capable of a lower crossover, and ARC has completely corrected the swing. The tiny residual error in LF is completely ignorable.


Now, the lower Room Gain ARC has found is, as I said, due to that dip in LF at 150Hz (and to a much lesser degree in RF). Some part of that dip may be due to how those two speakers are coupling to the room, and some bass treatments behind them may be worth looking into -- e.g., corner bass traps.


However, the easier thing to try is to see how far you can go with telling ARC to force a higher Room Gain than what it detected on its own. Try a few calculations where you inch up Room Gain toward 2dB or 2.5dB. Keep the "Force" box checked. When you do the Calculation, keep a sharp eye on the residual error in LF, particularly near 150Hz. You can tolerate up to 2dB residual error, or even a little more if it spans a small range of frequencies.


What you have right now SHOULD sound wonderful. But many movie mixes in particular are made in the assumption that typical listening rooms will have somewhat more Room Gain -- in the 2dB to 4dB range. So the 1.3dB ARC is preserving right now is just a hair flatter than that -- tending towards the "deader" response of an anechoic room.


Anyway, as always the key thing is to trust your ears. If you get clean curves after forcing Room Gain a little higher, then give it a listen with content you really like and see if that is better than what ARC chose. Do that in a separate copy of your ARC results file and it will be easy to return to the solution ARC found for you if you want.


(By the way, I like to write protect each of my ARC results files after they are made so that I don't accidentally modify them later with ARC. ARC writes changes immediately into the currently open file. Write protecting the file makes sure that can't happen when you didn't intend it to happen. Right click on the file, select Properties from the pop up menu, check or clear the Read Only box and Apply that change.)

--Bob


----------



## cargen

Has anyone ever been able to successfully run ARC 2.1 within Windows XP via VMWare Fusion 2 in a MacBook Pro (using a Keyspan USB adapter)?


I tried it. After about 45 seconds, the D2 shuts down as it should, but never re-starts during ARC. Instead about 75 seconds later, an ARC error window pops up that reads:


"Error

Failed to power of unit

Abort will abort the procedure

Retry will try again

Ignore will resume the procedure"


3 Button choices: Abort - Retry - Ingnore


The Anthem Error message states "Failed to power of unit". Obviously, the Error message contains a typo, which should have read "off" instead of "of".


The Error message is odd, because the D2 actually DID power off. What it failed to do was turn back on during the ARC process, thus the error message!


I tried it several times. After, I unplug both cables, the D2 turns on and operates fine.


When running ARC, which I've owned since version 1, I've always previously done a hard reboot into Bootcamp Windows XP, but unfortunately when I do, the Windows screen comes up frozen with the arrow frozen as well. All other programs I use inside Windows XP/VMWare Fusion 2 work fine including DVD Profiler and TurboTax so I really haven't had a need to use Windows XP in Bootcamp (verses inside VMWare Fusion 2) for a long time. In fact, probably the last time was when I last ran ARC 1.15 back in September.


I suppose to be able to run ARC 2.1, I'm going to have to save all my files in Windows XP and then create a new, fresh Bootcamp partition and reload Windows XP, etc, etc, etc., but as anyone who has done it knows, it is so time consuming. My system sounds so good with my 1.15 ARC uploaded files, I'm wondering if it's worth it.


So back to my original question. Has anyone been able to successfully run ARC in an Intel MacBook Pro inside either VMWare Fusion or Parallels?


Chris


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cargen* /forum/post/16098787
> 
> 
> Has anyone ever been able to successfully run ARC 2.1 within Windows XP via VMWare Fusion 2 in a MacBook Pro (using a Keyspan USB adapter)?
> 
> 
> I tried it. After about 45 seconds, the D2 shuts down as it should, but never re-starts during ARC. Instead about 75 seconds later, an ARC error window pops up that reads:
> 
> 
> "Error
> 
> Failed to power of unit
> 
> Abort will abort the procedure
> 
> Retry will try again
> 
> Ignore will resume the procedure"
> 
> 
> 3 Button choices: Abort - Retry - Ingnore
> 
> 
> The Anthem Error message states "Failed to power of unit". Obviously, the Error message contains a typo, which should have read "off" instead of "of".
> 
> 
> The Error message is odd, because the D2 actually DID power off. What it failed to do was turn back on during the ARC process, thus the error message!
> 
> 
> I tried it several times. After, I unplug both cables, the D2 turns on and operates fine.
> 
> 
> When running ARC, which I've owned since version 1, I've always previously done a hard reboot into Bootcamp Windows XP, but unfortunately when I do, the Windows screen comes up frozen with the arrow frozen as well. All other programs I use inside Windows XP/VMWare Fusion 2 work fine including DVD Profiler and TurboTax so I really haven't had a need to use Windows XP in Bootcamp (verses inside VMWare Fusion 2) for a long time. In fact, probably the last time was when I last ran ARC 1.15 back in September.
> 
> 
> I suppose to be able to run ARC 2.1, I'm going to have to save all my files in Windows XP and then create a new, fresh Bootcamp partition and reload Windows XP, etc, etc, etc., but as anyone who has done it knows, it is so time consuming. My system sounds so good with my 1.15 ARC uploaded files, I'm wondering if it's worth it.
> 
> 
> So back to my original question. Has anyone been able to successfully run ARC in an Intel MacBook Pro inside either VMWare Fusion or Parallels?
> 
> 
> Chris



We've had one report here that you can use Fusion, but that the Keyspan adapter doesn't work well under Fusion -- which would, of course, match your problem. He got it working with a Belkin adapter.


See this post, and perhaps send a PM to VIDEO_BIT_BUCKET:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post15933464 


--Bob


----------



## esander3

Can someone point me in the direction for sub phase set-up. I have ARC all completed, but I need to confirm the phase of the sub and I did not see it in the first post. Thanks.


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

every thing in route . i have a mca 50 powering my paradigm 100 cc690 adp590 . no laughing please ! does the avm 50 do any power out to speakers , say for the rears in a 7.1 . i decieded to upgrade to a 7.1 . don't know if i should use another set of 590's or the new studio 10's thanks in advance bert


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/16099513
> 
> 
> Can someone point me in the direction for sub phase set-up. I have ARC all completed, but I need to confirm the phase of the sub and I did not see it in the first post. Thanks.



Here you go:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...61post13997761 


I thought that post was included by LEVESQUE in the ARC links in the first post, but apparently not.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/16100001
> 
> 
> every thing in route . i have a mca 50 powering my paradigm 100 cc690 adp590 . no laughing please ! does the avm 50 do any power out to speakers , say for the rears in a 7.1 . i decieded to upgrade to a 7.1 . don't know if i should use another set of 590's or the new studio 10's thanks in advance bert



The AVM 50, AVM 50v, D2, and D2v are pre-amp processors, not "receivers". That means they do not contain any power amp sections for driving speakers directly. You need external power amps.


When going from a 5.1 speaker setup to a 7.1 speaker setup, you will need to add two more channels of amp -- a stereo power amp for example. Often folks will take that opportunity to get a top quality 2 channel power amp for the LF/RF speakers and use their existing 5 channel power amp for the rest of their main speakers -- C, LS/RS, and the new LR/RR they are now adding.

--Bob


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16098089
> 
> 
> Very good! You are quite close now.
> 
> 
> I see you dropped Max EQ Frequency target to 16KHz. You seem to be getting good results at the highest frequencies anyway so that makes sense.
> 
> 
> You still have that big swing between 40Hz and 150Hz in LF -- and that's what's causing ARC to see the room as having such a small room gain -- but you have cleaned that up just enough that ARC is willing to believe your front speakers are capable of a lower crossover, and ARC has completely corrected the swing. The tiny residual error in LF is completely ignorable.
> 
> 
> Now, the lower Room Gain ARC has found is, as I said, due to that dip in LF at 150Hz (and to a much lesser degree in RF). Some part of that dip may be due to how those two speakers are coupling to the room, and some bass treatments behind them may be worth looking into -- e.g., corner bass traps.
> 
> 
> However, the easier thing to try is to see how far you can go with telling ARC to force a higher Room Gain than what it detected on its own. Try a few calculations where you inch up Room Gain toward 2dB or 2.5dB. Keep the "Force" box checked. When you do the Calculation, keep a sharp eye on the residual error in LF, particularly near 150Hz. You can tolerate up to 2dB residual error, or even a little more if it spans a small range of frequencies.
> 
> 
> What you have right now SHOULD sound wonderful. But many movie mixes in particular are made in the assumption that typical listening rooms will have somewhat more Room Gain -- in the 2dB to 4dB range. So the 1.3dB ARC is preserving right now is just a hair flatter than that -- tending towards the "deader" response of an anechoic room.
> 
> 
> Anyway, as always the key thing is to trust your ears. If you get clean curves after forcing Room Gain a little higher, then give it a listen with content you really like and see if that is better than what ARC chose. Do that in a separate copy of your ARC results file and it will be easy to return to the solution ARC found for you if you want.
> 
> 
> (By the way, I like to write protect each of my ARC results files after they are made so that I don't accidentally modify them later with ARC. ARC writes changes immediately into the currently open file. Write protecting the file makes sure that can't happen when you didn't intend it to happen. Right click on the file, select Properties from the pop up menu, check or clear the Read Only box and Apply that change.)
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob, I inched up the room gain as you suggested and it got a little hairy above 2.0 so I settled for 1.9 for movies and 1.7 for music and that really sounds GOOD. Thank you again for your help!! John.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/16100098
> 
> 
> Hello Bob, I inched up the room gain as you suggested and it got a little hairy above 2.0 so I settled for 1.9 for movies and 1.7 for music and that really sounds GOOD. Thank you again for your help!! John.



GOOD is good!


I think these guys want to come over an have a listen, too!











--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16100012
> 
> 
> I thought that post was included by LEVESQUE in the ARC links in the first post, but apparently not.
> 
> --Bob



You'll have to PM Levesque and get him to add it.


He is not BUSY any more










That should be there.


----------



## dseliger

Hi guys, im semi-new to arc and im hoping you guys can help.


I just installed 2.1 and ran a measurement -- 5 positions.


The Results are attached below.


I'm reading through the forum and my Targets settings seem to be out of whack. Are these targets defaults or calculated from the measurement?


When i calulate and upload the results are terrible, can anyone give me some pointers?


Like i said, im just learning this stuff so please bear with me.


Thanks in advance.


PS if if makes any difference:

Statement D2

B&K Reference S2 7 channel Amp

Klipsch THX Ultra2 In-walls all around

2 x Klipsch THX Subs with Klipsch KA-1000-THX Amp.


----------



## bluemark81

I see a post about setting sub phase which reminded me. When running ARC with a DD15, do any of the sub settings need to be adjusted? I understand that ARC does not adjust phase or polarity, but what about the othe settings such as low pass x-over freq, subsonic freq, slope, contour freq and level? I have my DD15 set to the defeat mode.


Thanks


----------



## yacht422

D2; V2.1 results.

everything is way different than before. i still have the lf problem(obvious on chart) and am working on it. sound is not materially different from before - is was good before, these results are just not a great deal different. but - the charts are!

bob:how say you?

thx, as always.

walt


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/16100355
> 
> 
> Hi guys, im semi-new to arc and im hoping you guys can help.
> 
> 
> I just installed 2.1 and ran a measurement -- 5 positions.
> 
> 
> The Results are attached below.
> 
> 
> I'm reading through the forum and my Targets settings seem to be out of whack. Are these targets defaults or calculated from the measurement?
> 
> 
> When i calulate and upload the results are terrible, can anyone give me some pointers?
> 
> 
> Like i said, im just learning this stuff so please bear with me.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> PS if if makes any difference:
> 
> Statement D2
> 
> B&K Reference S2 7 channel Amp
> 
> Klipsch THX Ultra2 In-walls all around
> 
> 2 x Klipsch THX Subs with Klipsch KA-1000-THX Amp.




What you have doesn't look that bad; but, it you forgot the Calculate Step which would be a green line. Make sure you zero out all of your settings in Speaker Level Calibrations. Once you have done that, set the Noise Sequence to manual, scroll down to Noise Level and adjust the setting until you SPL reads 75db. After that, scroll down to Movie Sub leave the setting to 0.0. Now use the volume on your sub and adjust that until you SPL reads 75db roughly. It does not have to be exact; but, it needs to be in the ball park. Once that's done, rerun ARC. Good luck.


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16100594
> 
> 
> What you have doesn't look that bad; but, it you forgot the Calculate Step which would be a green line. Make sure you zero out all of your settings in Speaker Level Calibrations. Once you have done that, set the Noise Sequence to manual, scroll down to Noise Level and adjust the setting until you SPL reads 75db. After that, scroll down to Movie Sub leave the setting to 0.0. Now use the volume on your sub and adjust that until you SPL reads 75db roughly. It does not have to be exact; but, it needs to be in the ball park. Once that's done, rerun ARC. Good luck.




Okay, so i set everything to 0 and adjusted the Noise Level to 75DB.


As far as the SUB goes, i normally set it to "THX Ultra2 Mode" which turns off all the controls on the amp (levels, etc) ... is it best to turn off THX mode and keep it manual?


I'll run ARC again in an hour or two when i get the 2 year old down for bed, he doesnt understand what quiet means during a calibration


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/16100575
> 
> 
> D2; V2.1 results.
> 
> everything is way different than before. i still have the lf problem(obvious on chart) and am working on it. sound is not materially different from before - is was good before, these results are just not a great deal different. but - the charts are!
> 
> bob:how say you?
> 
> thx, as always.
> 
> walt



You forgot to include the charts with your post.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/16100355
> 
> 
> Hi guys, im semi-new to arc and im hoping you guys can help.
> 
> 
> I just installed 2.1 and ran a measurement -- 5 positions.
> 
> 
> The Results are attached below.
> 
> 
> I'm reading through the forum and my Targets settings seem to be out of whack. Are these targets defaults or calculated from the measurement?
> 
> 
> When i calulate and upload the results are terrible, can anyone give me some pointers?
> 
> 
> Like i said, im just learning this stuff so please bear with me.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> PS if if makes any difference:
> 
> Statement D2
> 
> B&K Reference S2 7 channel Amp
> 
> Klipsch THX Ultra2 In-walls all around
> 
> 2 x Klipsch THX Subs with Klipsch KA-1000-THX Amp.



The charts you posted only show your Measurements and the Target curves ARC has decided to shoot for. What's missing is the green Calculated curves that show how close ARC is getting to its chosen Target curves.


Your Measurements don't look that bad, so I would think ARC could do a very good job of correcting these.


Re-open this file in ARC Advanced mode, do a Calculate (which will now also show the green Calculated curves on the chart) and Upload the results.


Post captures of the charts showing the green Calculated curves as well so we can see if there are any problems.


Next go into your Setup menu and check around a bit to make sure things look correct. While you are in there, check to make sure you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON set for each source. That's what enables ARC processing for each source. If this is the first time you've tried ARC this would be the most likely thing you've overlooked.


If things look correct in Setup after the Upload, then do a Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the Setup settings ARC has Uploaded into those memories.


---------------------------------------


The values in the Targets window are determined by ARC based on preliminary processing of your Measurements. The Targets control the Calculation pass that follows.


The Targets ARC has chosen for you look reasonable except that ARC has decided your room has virtually no Room Gain. Based on your red Measured curves it looks like your room really is rather flat around the crossover frequencies. The modest dip in the Right Front speaker near those frequencies was probably an important part of ARC's decision making process in this.


But you can tell ARC to "force" some more Room Gain in its Calculated solution. I'd suggest you try changing the two Room Gain values to something a bit higher -- 2dB might be a good start. Leave the "force" box checked.


When you look at your green Calculated curves you may find you need some correction above the 5KHz point that ARC uses as its default upper limit for what it corrects. You can raise the Max EQ Frequency target values up to 20KHz to raise that limit.


If despite all of this you find your ARC results still don't sound good, the usual explanation would be that you have not been sufficiently careful following the instructions for mic placement.


The mic should be pointed straight up at each position. It should be set at the same height for each position -- seated ear height. The #1 position should be dead center at your preferred seating location. Subsequent mic positions must alternate either side of #1. And no two mic positions, whether or not sequential should be closer than 24 inches apart. I use 30 inch spacing.


Don't place the mic tip close to a reflective surface like a wall or seat back. It is better to raise the mic height a few inches to clear a seat back or to move it a foot closer to the screen to get it away from a seat back


-------------------------------------


For your sub, are you talking about a THX Ultra 2 sub setting on the sub itself? The THX Ultra 2 setting in the Anthem Setup menu gets ignored when you do ARC stuff.


The Measured response from your sub looks fine, so whatever you've got it set to right now is probably good.


Now the basic volume level of your setup -- the flat part of the Targets curves to the right of the crossover frequencies -- is a little low. In Setup > Level Calibration you could raise the Noise Level line a couple dB. ARC uses that setting to control the volume of its test sweep tones and, if possible, to set the basic volume level of the solution. Right now you are getting 71dB and 75dB is typically what I recommend, so you are only a few dB lower than "ideal".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16100425
> 
> 
> I see a post about setting sub phase which reminded me. When running ARC with a DD15, do any of the sub settings need to be adjusted? I understand that ARC does not adjust phase or polarity, but what about the othe settings such as low pass x-over freq, subsonic freq, slope, contour freq and level? I have my DD15 set to the defeat mode.
> 
> 
> Thanks



You need to disable the crossover in the DD15. It took me a while to find the instruction in its manual and I don't recall it offhand, but it is something like selecting the crossover setting in the upper left corner of the table and then pressing Reset. When you've done it right all of the crossover entries will change to NA.


The contour level should be set to 0 (that will be the default in the bypass EQ preset -- preset 6), and with it set to 0 the contour frequency doesn't matter.


You must manually adjust phase and polarity to best match your main speakers as described in that post I cited just a few posts above. You can do that using the controls in the DD15. If you only have one subwoofer you can also do it using the controls in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie and Music.


Any volume adjustment you make inside the DD15 must be made on its setup page (in the Preset 6 column), and you must select Preset 6 as the default Preset for power up on that page. Otherwise the DD15 will power up with different settings next time you have a power failure or whatever.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16101272
> 
> 
> You need to disable the crossover in the DD15. It took me a while to find the instruction in its manual and I don't recall it offhand, but it is something like selecting the crossover setting in the upper left corner of the table and then pressing Reset. When you've done it right all of the crossover entries will change to NA.
> 
> 
> The contour level should be set to 0 (that will be the default in the bypass EQ preset -- preset 6), and with it set to 0 the contour frequency doesn't matter.
> 
> 
> You must manually adjust phase and polarity to best match your main speakers as described in that post I cited just a few posts above. You can do that using the controls in the DD15. If you only have one subwoofer you can also do it using the controls in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie and Music.
> 
> 
> Any volume adjustment you make inside the DD15 must be made on its setup page (in the Preset 6 column), and you must select Preset 6 as the default Preset for power up on that page. Otherwise the DD15 will power up with different settings next time you have a power failure or whatever.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Thanks. What theater/music setting would be best for someone who listens/watches an equal mix of movies/tv/music? If I adjust that, do I have to re-run ARC?


----------



## zuesmaximus

still waiting for my avm50v but now I'm prepared. I ordered an old dell laptop wih windows xp and serial port, no more adapters....which came in yesteday. downloaded new updates and I ready to rock


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16101451
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks. What theater/music setting would be best for someone who listens/watches an equal mix of movies/tv/music? If I adjust that, do I have to re-run ARC?



If you are talking about the servo feedback control setting in the DD-15, I always use it turned all the way up -- 8, most Musical.


In subwoofer jargon, Musical means accurate. The opposite means more output at the expense of allowing distortion.


I see no reason to want to screw up what ARC is doing by allowing distortion.


ETA: And yes, if you change anything in the DD15 setup page other than Phase/Polarity (assuming you have only one subwoofer) you should set aside some time to redo the ARC setup.

--Bob


----------



## BJB23

Anyone using a Sony BDP550 with their D2v?


I'm not able to get the signal from the player to display on two TVs at the same time. It doesn't matter what content is being played, not even the start-up menu works. All conections are HDMI. Either TV works fine when connected to HDMI out 1 on the D2v, but when I turn on the TV connected to HDMI out 2 the picture on both displays goes away. When I turn off the TV connected to HDMI out 2 the picture returns on the primary display. The picture also won't display on the TV connected to HDMI output 2 by itself when the TV connected to HDMI out 1 is turned off. I tried multiple different output resolutions from the Sony with the same results.


I know HDMI out 2 works because both TVs work at the same time and separately with other HDMI input sources. I also tried switching the HDMI inputs I was using on the Anthem, same results. The firmware is up to date on the Sony and I have V2.04 installed on the D2v.


Any thoughts?


Thanks.

-Brad


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BJB23* /forum/post/16101549
> 
> 
> Anyone using a Sony BDP550 with their D2v?
> 
> 
> I'm not able to get the signal from the player to display on two TVs at the same time. It doesn't matter what content is being played, not even the start-up menu works. All conections are HDMI. Either TV works fine when connected to HDMI out 1 on the D2v, but when I turn on the TV connected to HDMI out 2 the picture on both displays goes away. When I turn off the TV connected to HDMI out 2 the picture returns on the primary display. The picture also won't display on the TV connected to HDMI output 2 by itself when the TV connected to HDMI out 1 is turned off. I tried multiple different output resolutions from the Sony with the same results.
> 
> 
> I know HDMI out 2 works because both TVs work at the same time and separately with other HDMI input sources. I also tried switching the HDMI inputs I was using on the Anthem, same results. The firmware is up to date on the Sony and I have V2.04 installed on the D2v.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -Brad



It looks like your Sony player isn't happy with the copy protection stuff when the second TV output is enabled. So the player is muting its HDMI output to the D2v.


When you power up the second TV and both displays go dark, press Select multiple times to see what the D2v is receiving as video input. If you can bring up the Video Source Adjust menu on the HDMI 1 display, then you can also get stuff from the Info panel. If I'm right, there will be no video input signal.


I think you should give Anthem tech support a call in the morning and let them work this through with you. I think it likely the bug is in the Sony player, but they may have a workaround to offer.


Please do report back what you find out.

--Bob


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16101219
> 
> 
> The charts you posted only show your Measurements and the Target curves ARC has decided to shoot for. What's missing is the green Calculated curves that show how close ARC is getting to its chosen Target curves.
> 
> 
> Your Measurements don't look that bad, so I would think ARC could do a very good job of correcting these.
> 
> 
> Re-open this file in ARC Advanced mode, do a Calculate (which will now also show the green Calculated curves on the chart) and Upload the results.
> 
> 
> Post captures of the charts showing the green Calculated curves as well so we can see if there are any problems.
> 
> 
> Next go into your Setup menu and check around a bit to make sure things look correct. While you are in there, check to make sure you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON set for each source. That's what enables ARC processing for each source. If this is the first time you've tried ARC this would be the most likely thing you've overlooked.
> 
> 
> If things look correct in Setup after the Upload, then do a Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the Setup settings ARC has Uploaded into those memories.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The values in the Targets window are determined by ARC based on preliminary processing of your Measurements. The Targets control the Calculation pass that follows.
> 
> 
> The Targets ARC has chosen for you look reasonable except that ARC has decided your room has virtually no Room Gain. Based on your red Measured curves it looks like your room really is rather flat around the crossover frequencies. The modest dip in the Right Front speaker near those frequencies was probably an important part of ARC's decision making process in this.
> 
> 
> But you can tell ARC to "force" some more Room Gain in its Calculated solution. I'd suggest you try changing the two Room Gain values to something a bit higher -- 2dB might be a good start. Leave the "force" box checked.
> 
> 
> When you look at your green Calculated curves you may find you need some correction above the 5KHz point that ARC uses as its default upper limit for what it corrects. You can raise the Max EQ Frequency target values up to 20KHz to raise that limit.
> 
> 
> If despite all of this you find your ARC results still don't sound good, the usual explanation would be that you have not been sufficiently careful following the instructions for mic placement.
> 
> 
> The mic should be pointed straight up at each position. It should be set at the same height for each position -- seated ear height. The #1 position should be dead center at your preferred seating location. Subsequent mic positions must alternate either side of #1. And no two mic positions, whether or not sequential should be closer than 24 inches apart. I use 30 inch spacing.
> 
> 
> Don't place the mic tip close to a reflective surface like a wall or seat back. It is better to raise the mic height a few inches to clear a seat back or to move it a foot closer to the screen to get it away from a seat back
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> For your sub, are you talking about a THX Ultra 2 sub setting on the sub itself? The THX Ultra 2 setting in the Anthem Setup menu gets ignored when you do ARC stuff.
> 
> 
> The Measured response from your sub looks fine, so whatever you've got it set to right now is probably good.
> 
> 
> Now the basic volume level of your setup -- the flat part of the Targets curves to the right of the crossover frequencies -- is a little low. In Setup > Level Calibration you could raise the Noise Level line a couple dB. ARC uses that setting to control the volume of its test sweep tones and, if possible, to set the basic volume level of the solution. Right now you are getting 71dB and 75dB is typically what I recommend, so you are only a few dB lower than "ideal".
> 
> --Bob




Well i feel like an idiot, i didnt have the EQ turned on for my sources...


I had it on previously, not sure how it got reset off.


After turning it back on it sounds pretty good now, i still followed the instructions that you and ninja21 posted and zeroed everything out and set my noise level to 75 DB and reran my measurements -- See attached.


Why would my room have no gain? I am taking my measurements as you suggested i'm putting the mic at ear level right in front of my chairs (so they arent close to the back of the chair).


Based on what you see now do you have any suggestions? I'm still trying to understand this.


Thanks for all your help.


As far as the sub goes, the amplifier has "THX Ultra2 Mode", when this mode is on the settings on the panel dont change anything, the settings come from the receiver/processor. I went ahead and turned THX Mode off and set the it to 75db as well for this test.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/16101745
> 
> 
> Well i feel like an idiot, i didnt have the EQ turned on for my sources...
> 
> 
> I had it on previously, not sure how it got reset off.
> 
> 
> After turning it back on it sounds pretty good now, i still followed the instructions that you and ninja21 posted and zeroed everything out and set my noise level to 75 DB and reran my measurements -- See attached.
> 
> 
> Why would my room have no gain? I am taking my measurements as you suggested i'm putting the mic at ear level right in front of my chairs (so they arent close to the back of the chair).
> 
> 
> Based on what you see now do you have any suggestions? I'm still trying to understand this.
> 
> 
> Thanks for all your help.
> 
> 
> As far as the sub goes, the amplifier has "THX Ultra2 Mode", when this mode is on the settings on the panel dont change anything, the settings come from the receiver/processor. I went ahead and turned THX Mode off and set the it to 75db as well for this test.



Room Gain is just another room response characteristic. Unlike others, it is considered a desirable characteristic to retain so that audio from sound tracks sounds like audio that might occur naturally in the room -- such as speech. So ARC detects and preserves it even as it is erasing other room response characteristics.


Movie tracks are generally mixed assuming there will be a modest amount of Room Gain in typical listening rooms. The range of 2dB to 4dB is common.


Now your room may just be naturally flat. If you've had the room acoustically treated that might be the case. Your LF/RF and C speakers also all have a shallow dip above the crossover region which makes the room look like it doesn't have much Room Gain.


The point is, it's no big deal to add in a modest amount of additional Room Gain and see if you like how that sounds. Again, I suggest you start with 2dB.


On the charts, you will see Room Gain as a shallow hump in the Targets curve in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies.


-----------------------------------------


In addition, I think your Measured curves are clean enough that you can afford to tell ARC to correct into the higher frequencies. By default, ARC doesn't try to correct things above 5KHz.


Open your results file in Advanced mode. Go into the Targets window. Raise the two Max EQ Frequency values. Adjust Room Gain as well if you want. Accept those changes, which will also dismiss the Targets window. Now do a Calculation. If you like what the green curves look like, do an Upload and give it a listen.


What you are looking for is how high up you can push Max EQ Frequency target before you start seeing wobbles in the green Calculated curve at lower frequencies. So try all the way up at 20KHz first. If you don't see any significant new wobbles in lower frequencies where ARC needs to correct stuff, then you are good to go. If you do see wobbles down there you can back off Max EQ Frequency target and Calculate again. There's no need to re-Measure in any of this.

--Bob


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16101847
> 
> 
> Room Gain is just another room response characteristic. Unlike others, it is considered a desirable characteristic to retain so that audio from sound tracks sounds like audio that might occur naturally in the room -- such as speech. So ARC detects and preserves it even as it is erasing other room response characteristics.
> 
> 
> Movie tracks are generally mixed assuming there will be a modest amount of Room Gain in typical listening rooms. The range of 2dB to 4dB is common.
> 
> 
> Now your room may just be naturally flat. If you've had the room acoustically treated that might be the case. Your LF/RF and C speakers also all have a shallow dip above the crossover region which makes the room look like it doesn't have much Room Gain.
> 
> 
> The point is, it's no big deal to add in a modest amount of additional Room Gain and see if you like how that sounds. Again, I suggest you start with 2dB.
> 
> 
> On the charts, you will see Room Gain as a shallow hump in the Targets curve in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In addition, I think your Measured curves are clean enough that you can afford to tell ARC to correct into the higher frequencies. By default, ARC doesn't try to correct things above 5KHz.
> 
> 
> Open your results file in Advanced mode. Go into the Targets window. Raise the two Max EQ Frequency values. Adjust Room Gain as well if you want. Accept those changes, which will also dismiss the Targets window. Now do a Calculation. If you like what the green curves look like, do an Upload and give it a listen.
> 
> 
> What you are looking for is how high up you can push Max EQ Frequency target before you start seeing wobbles in the green Calculated curve at lower frequencies. So try all the way up at 20KHz first. If you don't see any significant new wobbles in lower frequencies where ARC needs to correct stuff, then you are good to go. If you do see wobbles down there you can back off Max EQ Frequency target and Calculate again. There's no need to re-Measure in any of this.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks for the explanation it really helped me understand what i am looking at better.


Attached is my 20k with 2db gain... i see a little wobble but not too bad, what do you think?


----------



## butsu

Greetings,look like this pre-surround Anthem is the winner,someone live outside The State cannot buy,Right?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/16101968
> 
> 
> Bob, thanks for the explanation it really helped me understand what i am looking at better.
> 
> 
> Attached is my 20k with 2db gain... i see a little wobble but not too bad, what do you think?



The proof is in the listening, but based on the charts this Upload should sound wonderful.


There are no issues in your chart results.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *butsu* /forum/post/16101991
> 
> 
> Greetings,look like this pre-surround Anthem is the winner,someone live outside The State cannot buy,Right?



The Anthem D2v and AVM 50v pre-amp processors are sold world wide through their international distributors.


Check the International Distributors link on this page:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...erlocator.html 


When you find the distributor info for your country, call or email the distributor for the location of your local dealer.


If you can't find the info you need for your country, call or email Anthem for advice.

--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings

Hi Bob,


ARC uses FIR digital filters, or IIR filters (Infinite Impulse Response filters), based on the development with the help of acoustic research on "targeted response" by Canada's national Research Council (NRC). How may of them in the last incarnation of Anthem Room Correction?

And, is there more on the lower frequencies, like for the subwoofer?


Thanks,


_______

Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16102256
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> ARC uses FIR digital filters, or IIR filters (Infinite Impulse Response filters), based on the development with the help of acoustic research on "targeted response" by Canada's national Research Council (NRC). How may of them in the last incarnation of Anthem Room Correction?
> 
> And, is there more on the lower frequencies, like for the subwoofer?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> _______
> 
> Bob



Anthem has not released any details about the internals of ARC.

--Bob


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

bob i like anthem would you suggest a mca 20 amp to rum the 100's ? thanks bert


----------



## butsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16102070
> 
> 
> The Anthem D2v and AVM 50v pre-amp processors are sold world wide through their international distributors.
> 
> 
> Check the International Distributors link on this page:
> 
> http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...erlocator.html
> 
> 
> When you find the distributor info for your country, call or email the distributor for the location of your local dealer.
> 
> 
> If you can't find the info you need for your country, call or email Anthem for advice.
> 
> --Bob



thanks


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16102295
> 
> 
> Anthem has not released any details about the internals of ARC.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


I was kind of expecting that. That is too bad, but it's all right, because the best way to compare Anthem ARC with Audyssey PRO, TacT, Behringer Ultra-Curve Pro or any other high end Digital Room Correction systems, is to listen to them in your own room.


Thank you anyway for responding.


Regards,


________

Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/16102342
> 
> 
> bob i like anthem would you suggest a mca 20 amp to rum the 100's ? thanks bert



I'm sorry, but I can't help you with amp choices. Perhaps some others here will chime in.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BJB23* /forum/post/16101549
> 
> 
> Anyone using a Sony BDP550 with their D2v?
> 
> 
> I'm not able to get the signal from the player to display on two TVs at the same time. It doesn't matter what content is being played, not even the start-up menu works. All conections are HDMI. Either TV works fine when connected to HDMI out 1 on the D2v, but when I turn on the TV connected to HDMI out 2 the picture on both displays goes away. When I turn off the TV connected to HDMI out 2 the picture returns on the primary display. The picture also won't display on the TV connected to HDMI output 2 by itself when the TV connected to HDMI out 1 is turned off. I tried multiple different output resolutions from the Sony with the same results.
> 
> 
> I know HDMI out 2 works because both TVs work at the same time and separately with other HDMI input sources. I also tried switching the HDMI inputs I was using on the Anthem, same results. The firmware is up to date on the Sony and I have V2.04 installed on the D2v.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -Brad



I am trying out the 550 with the D2v, while waiting for the new Oppo, and I have no problems displaying to both my TV and my projector at the same time.


----------



## dschamis

Still no word on details of the D2 => D2v upgrade, right?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/16103793
> 
> 
> Still no word on details of the D2 => D2v upgrade, right?



Based on a key part shortage and continued demand for NEW units, the shared opinion is June or after.


Of course, there is no official word on timeframe OR price.


----------



## ehlarson

I am leaving a deposit with my dealer tonight, and he will be placing an order for a D2V tomorrow.










Are we still looking at a 45-day to 60-day lead time for shipping new orders?


(Hoping the answer is a bit better than that).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16104220
> 
> 
> I am leaving a deposit with my dealer tonight, and he will be placing an order for a D2V tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are we still looking at a 45-day to 60-day lead time for shipping new orders?
> 
> 
> (Hoping the answer is a bit better than that).



So far, 45 to 60 days lead time is still the best info we have.

--Bob


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16104220
> 
> 
> Are we still looking at a 45-day to 60-day lead time for shipping new orders?
> 
> 
> (Hoping the answer is a bit better than that).



Feels more like eternity though


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Good cooking takes time...









--Bob


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16101067
> 
> 
> You forgot to include the charts with your post.
> 
> --Bob



too soon we grow old, too late, smart.

let us try again!

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/16105867
> 
> 
> too soon we grow old, too late, smart.
> 
> let us try again!
> 
> walt



These charts look fine as is.


The only problem is that you forgot to raise Max EQ Frequency for your Music configuration. Fix that, re-Calculate and re-Upload.


There's really nothing else that needs changing. Bass from your LF measures hot, but ARC has that taken care of that.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/16103793
> 
> 
> Still no word on details of the D2 => D2v upgrade, right?



more or less in June.


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16106275
> 
> 
> These charts look fine as is.
> 
> 
> The only problem is that you forgot to raise Max EQ Frequency for your Music configuration. Fix that, re-Calculate and re-Upload.
> 
> 
> There's really nothing else that needs changing. Bass from your LF measures hot, but ARC has that taken care of that.
> 
> --Bob



as always, my appreciation.

walt


----------



## CycloneMike

My projector is a Sony VPL-VW60 and I have a question relative to settings on the video output selection I should use in the video output on the D2v.


I am using HDMI and have two video output settings that I use: 1080p/60 and 1080p/24. I use the 1080p/24 for Blu-Ray movies that output from my PS3 at 1080p/24, otherwise I use the 1080p/60 selection.


The D2v video data output setting lets me choose different data formats for the HDTV display of the VPL-VW60: YCbCr 4:2:2, YCbCr 4:4:4, Studio RGB, and Extended RGB.


Has anyone else tried these different settings out on a VPL-VW60? Any suggestions?


I am still having problems, first with "pink" screen with HDMI (Auto setting) and now with "green" screen with YCbCr 4:2:2 with my SA8300HD.


The only way I have been able to get it to correct now is to turn D2v menu on then off.


Could this be a cable problem? It did not happen previously with my D2.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16104889
> 
> 
> Good cooking takes time...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Ahhhh.......


Faire de la bonne cuisine demande un certain temps.

Si on vous fait attendre, c'est pour mieux vous servir, et vous plaire.


Restaurant Antoine


----------



## CycloneMike

I have run into an interesting problem with my cable boxes and the D2v. If either my SA8300HDC or my SA4250HDC are connected to the D2v with a HDMI cable and the power is off on the D2v the cable box will not "boot". The SA8300HDC will just stall out and get stuck in the boot process and the SA4250HDC will just keep cycling and trying to boot.


First I thought it was a cable signal problem and I tried different cables, but when I disconnected the HDMI cable from the D2v the units would boot. In addition, if I would turn the D2v on with the HDMI cable connected the units would boot. (I also tried a different HDMI cable and HDMI inputs on the D2v and this did not help.)


I did check by connecting each unit to another TV in the house via HDMI and there were no problems.


I switched to a component connection and there were no problems. That is how I have the unit connected to the D2v now.


I don't know if this is a SA cable box issue, or a TWC software issue, or an issue with the D2v; however, the problem was not present with my previous D2.


This is primarily a problem because TWC will send software updates in the middle of the night that require the unit to reboot. When this has happended, the unit freezes because of the HDMI connection and my D2v is off in the middle of the night.


I will report this problem to Anthem tomorrow.


Mike


----------



## Lordoftherings

Is ARC a parametric EQ?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16109891
> 
> 
> I have run into an interesting problem with my cable boxes and the D2v. If either my SA8300HDC or my SA4250HDC are connected to the D2v with a HDMI cable and the power is off on the D2v the cable box will not "boot". The SA8300HDC will just stall out and get stuck in the boot process and the SA4250HDC will just keep cycling and trying to boot.
> 
> 
> First I thought it was a cable signal problem and I tried different cables, but when I disconnected the HDMI cable from the D2v the units would boot. In addition, if I would turn the D2v on with the HDMI cable connected the units would boot. (I also tried a different HDMI cable and HDMI inputs on the D2v and this did not help.)
> 
> 
> I did check by connecting each unit to another TV in the house via HDMI and there were no problems.
> 
> 
> I switched to a component connection and there were no problems. That is how I have the unit connected to the D2v now.
> 
> 
> I don't know if this is a SA cable box issue, or a TWC software issue, or an issue with the D2v; however, the problem was not present with my previous D2.
> 
> 
> This is primarily a problem because TWC will send software updates in the middle of the night that require the unit to reboot. When this has happended, the unit freezes because of the HDMI connection and my D2v is off in the middle of the night.
> 
> 
> I will report this problem to Anthem tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike,

I have the same digital box and D2V but none of the problems you report. Good luck with it.

John


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16107603
> 
> 
> Ahhhh.......
> 
> 
> Faire de la bonne cuisine demande un certain temps.
> 
> Si on vous fait attendre, c'est pour mieux vous servir, et vous plaire.
> 
> 
> Restaurant Antoine



Trop drole!


En meme temps a force d'attendre la sortie de la mise a jour du D2 au D2v j"ai l'impression que les petits fours seront calcines!


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16110376
> 
> 
> Mike,
> 
> I have the same digital box and D2V but none of the problems you report. Good luck with it.
> 
> John



John,


Who is your cable provider and what software platform are they running?


Mine is TWC and they run their own software platform - Navigator.


Mike


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16110810
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> Who is your cable provider and what software platform are they running?
> 
> 
> Mine is TWC and they run their own software platform - Navigator.
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike,

I am in the Toronto area and have Rogers cable. Not sure of the version of SARA software running on it.

John


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16110189
> 
> 
> Is ARC a parametric EQ?




Yes but I believe its not just a parametric EQ..... It also works in the time domain and processes and corrects decay, standing wave, as well as reverb - correct me if I'm wrong...


From Sound & Vision 


> Quote:
> The ARC system which Anthem tells us is rooted in the Athena Project acoustical-research initiative (sponsored by the Canadian government among several manufacturers some years back) appears to work very much like the Audyssey technology licensed in many higher-end A/V receivers. The results with my speakers and room setup were similar as well, negating mild bumps at around 50, 200, and 500 Hz and smoothing a bit of peaky response through the 2- to 8-kHz octaves. The ARC-1 software displays nifty graphs on your PC that overlay measured, target, and corrected responses, and it lets you control many auto-setup options as well as the bandwidth of the correction to be applied.
> 
> ARC also performs basic channel-level, delay, and crossover setup, which can then be fine-tuned via conventional onscreen menus including what must be the most detailed and flexible electronic crossover options available in any surround sound processor.



Hopefully someone else can chime in to be more exacting about what ARC brings to the table...... Anthem doesn't seem to expand very much on the subject.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16110189
> 
> 
> Is ARC a parametric EQ?



Not in the sense most people use that term.


Again, Anthem has not released details on the internal implementation of ARC. Any reports that have appeared in print are just guessing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16106598
> 
> 
> My projector is a Sony VPL-VW60 and I have a question relative to settings on the video output selection I should use in the video output on the D2v.
> 
> 
> I am using HDMI and have two video output settings that I use: 1080p/60 and 1080p/24. I use the 1080p/24 for Blu-Ray movies that output from my PS3 at 1080p/24, otherwise I use the 1080p/60 selection.
> 
> 
> The D2v video data output setting lets me choose different data formats for the HDTV display of the VPL-VW60: YCbCr 4:2:2, YCbCr 4:4:4, Studio RGB, and Extended RGB.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else tried these different settings out on a VPL-VW60? Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> I am still having problems, first with "pink" screen with HDMI (Auto setting) and now with "green" screen with YCbCr 4:2:2 with my SA8300HD.
> 
> 
> The only way I have been able to get it to correct now is to turn D2v menu on then off.
> 
> 
> Could this be a cable problem? It did not happen previously with my D2.



For an explanation of the different data formats (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4, etc.) see the "Technology and Terminology" post links collected in the first post of this thread.


If you are getting a solid green screen (no content, just green) then that's a symptom that your source has muted its output because it is not happy with copy protection (HDCP) somewhere along the video chain.


If you are getting moving video content that is tinted Shocking Pink or Ghastly Green then that's a symptom that the handshake has failed and that the source is sending YCbCr or RGB when the destination is expecting the other. If YCbCr is sent when RGB is expected then you get video tinted Shocking Pink. If RGB is sent when YCbCr is expected then you get video tinted Ghastly Green.


This is not supposed to happen of course. The source is supposed to find out what the destination prefers and only send that, and the destination is supposed to be able to figure out what the source is sending in any event.


Failure to complete this handshake properly can be due to marginal HDMI cables either between the source and the Anthem or between the Anthem and the display. It can also be due to timing issues. For example, far too many projectors are not actually prepared to perform the HDMI handshake until after they've had a moment to get their act together after powering up.


HDMI cables carry high bandwdith signals (the audio and video) and low bandwidth signals (the handshake and the copy protection stuff). The two types of signals degrade differently in marginal cables. That means you may get solid video but a lousy handshake from a given cable. Or the other way around.


Forcing output to a particular format from the source to the Anthem or from the Anthem to the display simplifies the handshake -- presuming you have picked a data format the destination device actually allows.


So first turn on your projector. Wait a while. Then turn on the D2v with some other source selected. Wait a while. Then select the source giving you the problems. If that always produces good video then you may just have a power-on timing problem -- most likely in your display. In the future, power up the display first and wait a bit before powering up the D2v.


If you still sometimes get tinted video then try forcing a particular data format instead of using automatic selection.


And finally try upgrading your HDMI cables. Keep in mind that the D2v is capable of "Deep Color" connections -- 36 bits per pixel. So if your source or display also allow that then even more demands are being put on cable quality than was the case with the D2 which only made connections up to 24 bits per pixel.


One way to test that is to set your source to send 480p to the Anthem and to set the Anthem to send 480p to the display. 480p (not 480i) is the "simplest" HDMI signal. If that always works (no cases of tinted video) then that suggests the problem is one of marginal cables not quite up to the higher bandwidth 1080p/60 signal -- particularly if it is a 36 bit signal.


Look for cables marked as HDMI V1.3 "High Speed", "For 1080p", or "Category 2". Those markings all mean the same thing -- that the cable has been made and tested to survive the higher bandwidth signals. Keep in mind that cable certification only applies to that length of cable as manufactured. In many cases, the culprit turns out to be the use of a wall plate adapter to tie a short cable to a longer cable in the wall.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16109891
> 
> 
> I have run into an interesting problem with my cable boxes and the D2v. If either my SA8300HDC or my SA4250HDC are connected to the D2v with a HDMI cable and the power is off on the D2v the cable box will not "boot". The SA8300HDC will just stall out and get stuck in the boot process and the SA4250HDC will just keep cycling and trying to boot.
> 
> 
> First I thought it was a cable signal problem and I tried different cables, but when I disconnected the HDMI cable from the D2v the units would boot. In addition, if I would turn the D2v on with the HDMI cable connected the units would boot. (I also tried a different HDMI cable and HDMI inputs on the D2v and this did not help.)
> 
> 
> I did check by connecting each unit to another TV in the house via HDMI and there were no problems.
> 
> 
> I switched to a component connection and there were no problems. That is how I have the unit connected to the D2v now.
> 
> 
> I don't know if this is a SA cable box issue, or a TWC software issue, or an issue with the D2v; however, the problem was not present with my previous D2.
> 
> 
> This is primarily a problem because TWC will send software updates in the middle of the night that require the unit to reboot. When this has happended, the unit freezes because of the HDMI connection and my D2v is off in the middle of the night.
> 
> 
> I will report this problem to Anthem tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Mike



Yes, work this problem with Anthem tech support. Odds are your set top boxes have a bug in their HDMI implementation, but there may be something Anthem can do as regards how the HDMI sockets in the Anthem present themselves to sources when the Anthem is in standby (i.e., powered off via the remote control, but still powered on at the back panel switch).


Check that your set top boxes will boot if an HDMI cable is plugged in at the box but NOT plugged in at the other end -- use a spare HDMI cable plugged into the set top box to minimize plugging/unplugging at the Anthem socket.


If the set top box won't boot when an HDMI cable is plugged in at the box but loose at the other end then that's a bug in the set top box and there's nothing Anthem will be able to do about it.

--Bob


----------



## ehlarson

Anthem does provide a brochure that describes some things about ARC in general terms. Looks like they do use IIR filters.

http://statement.anthemav.com/html/P.../ARC-1_PDS.pdf


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16111834
> 
> 
> Anthem does provide a brochure that describes some things about ARC in general terms. Looks like they do use IIR filters.
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/html/P.../ARC-1_PDS.pdf



Yes. They say their implementation doesn't produce processing artifacts -- touting the IIR filters as one reason.


But they *DON'T* say what their implementation actually *IS*! I.e., just what they're doing with those filters to produce such good results.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

Here are new results, I'd appreciate some evaluation. I think they look pretty good. I'm a little curious about the spike at the very end for both the left and right surrounds. They are in-walls, so I guess there's not much I can do about it, but so are the rears and they don't show the spikes. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/16112302
> 
> 
> Here are new results, I'd appreciate some evaluation. I think they look pretty good. I'm a little curious about the spike at the very end for both the left and right surrounds. They are in-walls, so I guess there's not much I can do about it, but so are the rears and they don't show the spikes. Thanks



These results look fine.


That spike right at 20KHz in LS/RS is odd. It may not be real as Measuring accurately up there is tricky due to speaker directionality and other oddball things like humidity in the room. It may also just be a characteristic of those speakers that they built in some treble resonance (treble boost built into the design of the tweeter) and it is ringing at 20KHz. Speaker response up there can also be altered by basic details of installation such as choice of grill cloth and whether the mounting hardware is tight.


In any event, there's precious little content that high in the surround channels so I doubt you'll notice it.


Review your mic placement procedures, though. All positions at seated ear height, mic pointing straight up at every position, and no position close to a speaker or directly adjacent to a reflective surface such as a wall or seat back.


My guess is that this is just a characteristic of these speakers. If the rears are the same model, then, since you are not seeing the spike in the rears, think about what's different in the way the rears are installed compared to the side surrounds.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

Bob, I'll check into those things. I did test it out on a few favorite movie scenes and it sounds pretty damn awesome! Thanks


----------



## TJG55

Wow,

I'm really surprised no one wants to know about this new product introduction.

tjg


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/16113921
> 
> 
> Wow,
> 
> I'm really surprised no one wants to know about this new product introduction.
> 
> tjg



We had some brief discussion in here back when it was first announced -- I can't recall if that was around CEDIA time or CES time.


I believe we decided it was a re-badged projector from one of the major brands which was already well covered in the projector forum -- JVC as I recall.


Did they just put out new info on it?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've found a repeatable problem with HDMI Bitstream audio from my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi player into the D2v.


This is one of the first HDMI-capable SD-DVD players (an HDMI V1.0 device, imagine that!) and happens to be one of the players Anthem used for testing when designing the original D2. Which probably explains why I never had this problem with my D2!


The problem happens on multiple discs and appears to be triggered by format transitions in the audio bitstream output. The symptom is that I get a buzz from the RF speaker followed by a Snap! from some other speakers. Audio then proceeds to play normally. The duration of the buzz/snap is about 1/4 second. The volume is moderate -- easy to hear, but not scary loud.


The repeatable case is from the "Audio Set Up" test pattern on "Ratatouille" SD-DVD. When you enter that test pattern, a DD5.1 track is supposed to play with audio coming from just the Center speaker (to start). I get the buzz/snap each time that pattern starts. If you cycle around the pattern (pressing Enter repeatedly) there is no problem when you get back to C, but if you just wait on the C portion of the test, the pattern eventually loops and restarts on its own, and then you DO get the buzz or buzz/snap just before audio from C begins again.


That pattern plays just fine using HDMI Bitstream output from either the PS3 or the Oppo BDP-83. At a guess the Pioneer's HDMI V1.0 output is not playing nice with the D2v's HDMI V1.3 input.


The problem happens whether or not ARC processing is enabled.


Anthem has been alerted, and with any luck they still have their own Pioneer DV-59avi to track this down.

--Bob


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16102053
> 
> 
> The proof is in the listening, but based on the charts this Upload should sound wonderful.
> 
> 
> There are no issues in your chart results.
> 
> --Bob



Just wanted to give you a quick follow-up.


Watched a couple movies last night with the new settings...its like a totally new system! I'm lovin it!


Thanks for the help!


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16114559
> 
> 
> I've found a repeatable problem with HDMI Bitstream audio from my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi player into the D2v.
> 
> 
> This is one of the first HDMI-capable SD-DVD players (an HDMI V1.0 device, imagine that!) and happens to be one of the players Anthem used for testing when designing the original D2. Which probably explains why I never had this problem with my D2!
> 
> 
> The problem happens on multiple discs and appears to be triggered by format transitions in the audio bitstream output. The symptom is that I get a buzz from the RF speaker followed by a Snap! from some other speakers. Audio then proceeds to play normally. The duration of the buzz/snap is about 1/4 second. The volume is moderate -- easy to hear, but not scary loud.
> 
> 
> The repeatable case is from the "Audio Set Up" test pattern on "Ratatouille" SD-DVD. When you enter that test pattern, a DD5.1 track is supposed to play with audio coming from just the Center speaker (to start). I get the buzz/snap each time that pattern starts. If you cycle around the pattern (pressing Enter repeatedly) there is no problem when you get back to C, but if you just wait on the C portion of the test, the pattern eventually loops and restarts on its own, and then you DO get the buzz or buzz/snap just before audio from C begins again.
> 
> 
> That pattern plays just fine using HDMI Bitstream output from either the PS3 or the Oppo BDP-83. At a guess the Pioneer's HDMI V1.0 output is not playing nice with the D2v's HDMI V1.3 input.
> 
> 
> The problem happens whether or not ARC processing is enabled.
> 
> 
> Anthem has been alerted, and with any luck they still have their own Pioneer DV-59avi to track this down.
> 
> --Bob



Boy, that sounds exactly like what happens whenever my Oppo 970, and now my Panny Bluray syncs with my AVM-50!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/16114792
> 
> 
> Just wanted to give you a quick follow-up.
> 
> 
> Watched a couple movies last night with the new settings...its like a totally new system! I'm lovin it!
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help!



Some of these guys are headed your way right now to join in the celebration. I hope you have enough chips and dips!











--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/16114838
> 
> 
> Boy, that sounds exactly like what happens whenever my Oppo 970, and now my Panny Bluray syncs with my AVM-50!



If you have an easy to reproduce case of this, please write up the details and email to Anthem tech support. If you speak with Nick, let him know that what you are hearing sounds like what I'm hearing from the Pioneer DV-59avi with my D2v. That will connect the two reports in his mind.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/16113921
> 
> 
> Wow,
> 
> I'm really surprised no one wants to know about this new product introduction.
> 
> tjg



Bob is correct again. It's a JVC DLA-RS20U or it"s little sister and iI don"t have the model # for that one


----------



## Donloz

JVC little sister is DLA HD750


----------



## facke02

I know I'm missing it in the manual, but how do I use my ARC Music configuration for a source?


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/16110586
> 
> 
> Trop drole!
> 
> 
> En meme temps a force d'attendre la sortie de la mise a jour du D2 au D2v j"ai l'impression que les petits fours seront calcines!



Tolstoi, we only know how to speak US. E-LA Supersex still their?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16115351
> 
> 
> I know I'm missing it in the manual, but how do I use my ARC Music configuration for a source?



Setup > Source Setup > your source device > BASS MGR


Select Movie, Music, or Auto-LFE which uses Movie if there is an LFE channel in the input stream and Music otherwise.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16115095
> 
> 
> If you have an easy to reproduce case of this, please write up the details and email to Anthem tech support. If you speak with Nick, let him know that what you are hearing sounds like what I'm hearing from the Pioneer DV-59avi with my D2v. That will connect the two reports in his mind.
> 
> --Bob



I e mailed Nick back in February with this problem. I even attached a wma audio file of the buzz / snap noises coming from the speakers. He requested a copy of my Settings Backup Utility, which I sent him the next day. Haven't heard anything since. To me it sounds more like a hiss followed by a popping noise that starts out in one of the front speakers and travels quickly from speaker to speaker. I'm hoping things will settle down at Anthem so that maybe they'll find the time to address my problem, as this has been occurring since March of 2008 (and yes Anthem was made aware of this back then).


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16115767
> 
> 
> Setup > Source Setup > your source device > BASS MGR
> 
> 
> Select Movie, Music, or Auto-LFE which uses Movie if there is an LFE channel in the input stream and Music otherwise.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob...


----------



## Haroon Malik




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/16113921
> 
> 
> Wow,
> 
> I'm really surprised no one wants to know about this new product introduction.
> 
> tjg



1. Anthem LTX-500 [JVC HD-750] - MSRP $7,499


2. Anthem LTX-300 [JVC HD-350] - MSRP $5,499


Availability: Q2 2009.



I expect better quality control in these projectors as Anthem will test the units they receive and better dealer support since Anthem has a very strong worldwide dealer network.

http://www.ecoustics.com/ah/reviews/...anthem-ltx-500 


P.S. Screen Innovations is also teaming up with Anthem to offer their Black Diamond screen for potential customers seeking a complete HT package of projector [Anthem], screen [SI], preamp/processor [Anthem] and speakers [Paradigm].


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16110905
> 
> 
> Yes but I believe its not just a parametric EQ..... It also works in the time domain and processes and corrects decay, standing wave, as well as reverb - correct me if I'm wrong...
> 
> 
> From Sound & Vision
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully someone else can chime in to be more exacting about what ARC brings to the table...... Anthem doesn't seem to expand very much on the subject.



Thank you very much Warpdrv.


I did not realised that ARC also works in the time domain, as well corrects the decay, standing wave and reverb. Also it uses sophisticated electronic crossovers and a notch filter.


No wonder that Anthem and ARC are mainly produced by Canadians.

Canadians are some of the best electronicians, studio mixers, software programmers, circuit board designers, reliable amplifiers, best value surround processors, excellent speaker's designers, etc. in the whole world.


I am quite happy with the quote that you mentioned from "Sound and Vision".


From what I understand, you can also apply changes in the Anthem ARC

adjustments? If this is right, then it is big step in tweaking for your own

sound preference. As you cannot do this with Audyssey.


And from what I already read, Anthem Room Correction (ARC) uses IIR filters,

Infinite Impulse Response filters, derived from a more elaborated Parametric EQ. So the quote that you did bring here, does confirm and explain with more precision the objective of ARC, and it's origins.


Thanks again for your response.


Regards,


______

Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16111585
> 
> 
> Not in the sense most people use that term.
> 
> 
> Again, Anthem has not released details on the internal implementation of ARC. Any reports that have appeared in print are just guessing.
> 
> --Bob



Kind a like a secret receipe for very good cookies.










_____

Bob


----------



## Haroon Malik

I've downloaded the new Catalogue from the Anthem Statement website. It seems there is a Dolby Volume logo on the new D2v! Can anybody with a new D2v confirm this and elaborate on how well it works when engaged? Secondly, what is the MSRP of the new D2v? Thanks.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Haroon Malik* /forum/post/16118637
> 
> 
> I've downloaded the new Catalogue from the Anthem Statement website. It seems there is a Dolby Volume logo on the new D2v! Can anybody with a new D2v confirm this and elaborate on how well it works when engaged? Secondly, what is the MSRP of the new D2v? Thanks.



Dolby Volume will be implemented in a future free firmware upgrade on the D2v. The D2v does not currently have this functionality.


Mike


----------



## CycloneMike

I had a chance to finally run ARC (v2.1) on my D2v last night and all went well. No program problems and the curves were pretty much as I expected based on my expereince with the D2. Thus far, sounds great!


Here is the odd thing that happened. During the measure step as the sound went from speaker to speaker there was a burst of static at the beginning and the end of each step from speaker to speaker. The static seemed to come from either the front right or center speaker. The only time there was not a burst of static was before the first measurement on the front left speaker. It was not a loud burst of static, nothing that would harm a speaker and the duration was maybe 1/4 second at the most each time. It occurred both during the movie and the music measurement (I use only two speakers for the music measurement).


Mike


----------



## TJG55

Yes, while they may or may not be using an oem platform, certainly there can be many areas where they will apply their majic, .....as well they will be doing screens.

tjg


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16118508
> 
> 
> Kind a like a secret receipe for very good cookies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _____
> 
> Bob



Secret Sauce. Not just for dessert. Goes with everything.


By the way, I've seen nothing from Anthem that backs up that article saying ARC applies time domain corrections. Of course Anthem hasn't DENIED they do that, either. I think that writer was just speculating.


I've gotten lots of hints from Nick at Anthem that they are very proud about ARC and consider it a cut above the competition, but no details as to precisely why.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Haroon Malik* /forum/post/16118637
> 
> 
> I've downloaded the new Catalogue from the Anthem Statement website. It seems there is a Dolby Volume logo on the new D2v! Can anybody with a new D2v confirm this and elaborate on how well it works when engaged? Secondly, what is the MSRP of the new D2v? Thanks.



The latest US MSRP we've heard is $7499. There continue to be hints from dealers that this is likely to go up, but you have to take such comments with a grain of salt. MSRP in Europe seems to be closer to $12,500. Lead time at the moment is about 45 to 60 days.


As CycloneMike said, the Dolby Volume feature was announced as "coming soon" in a free firmware upgrade.


We've heard that they are making great progress with it, but want to do some more cleanup before releasing it. In particular, Dolby provides some settings that are not user friendly. It is way too easy, apparently, to make the wrong settings and have it end up sounding awful. So we've heard that Anthem is working to tidy that up. We've also heard that when set correctly it works very well indeed across a wide range of content types.


My guess would be that final firmware including Dolby Volume is probably about 2 months away. Test versions sooner.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16118968
> 
> 
> I had a chance to finally run ARC (v2.1) on my D2v last night and all went well. No program problems and the curves were pretty much as I expected based on my expereince with the D2. Thus far, sounds great!
> 
> 
> Here is the odd thing that happened. During the measure step as the sound went from speaker to speaker there was a burst of static at the beginning and the end of each step from speaker to speaker. The static seemed to come from either the front right or center speaker. The only time there was not a burst of static was before the first measurement on the front left speaker. It was not a loud burst of static, nothing that would harm a speaker and the duration was maybe 1/4 second at the most each time. It occurred both during the movie and the music measurement (I use only two speakers for the music measurement).
> 
> 
> Mike



We had another report like that posted here a while back, but not since the V2.04 firmware came out. I had that too with the early D2v firmware, but not with the latest firmware.


I take it you are on V2.04 firmware, right?


If not you should definitely upgrade to V2.04. If you are on V2.04, then I suggest you email Anthem tech support with the details about your static.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16119677
> 
> 
> We had another report like that posted here a while back, but not since the V2.04 firmware came out. I had that too with the early D2v firmware, but not with the latest firmware.
> 
> 
> I take it you are on V2.04 firmware, right?
> 
> 
> If not you should definitely upgrade to V2.04. If you are on V2.04, then I suggest you email Anthem tech support with the details about your static.
> 
> --Bob



Yes - I am running version 2.04. I also get very short and quiet bursts of static noise on occasion from the left surround at times that seem random to me...at least I have not found a pattern.


I already got a response from Nick at Anthem technical support:


"Thanks as always for the feedback.


This is a known issue for v2 and I understand why it causes some uneasiness. Curing it is a matter of increasing mute time between sweeps. The audio DSP is undergoing some major changes (Dolby Volume) so I don't expect a fix for the burst before then."


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16119573
> 
> 
> Secret Sauce. Not just for dessert. Goes with everything.
> 
> 
> By the way, I've seen nothing from Anthem that backs up that article saying ARC applies time domain corrections. Of course Anthem hasn't DENIED they do that, either. I think that writer was just speculating.
> 
> 
> I've gotten lots of hints from Nick at Anthem that they are very proud about ARC and consider it a cut above the competition, but no details as to precisely why.
> 
> --Bob



Lordoftherings

Don't quote me on what I offered up as information, as Bob stated it was cut and paste from S&V, that may or may not be just spitting out gibberish from lack of information.... I assumed that they were correcting in the time domain which is what Audessey likes to tout as a selling point of their product be it true or not, it could just be a sales pitch


Bob is more in the know about anything Anthem, and if he says he doesn't know, i'll trust in what he offers up as "The Word of Bob"


----------



## Alembicjeff

I have followed this thread for a long time but now, due to its encyclopedic proportions, it is increasingly difficult to find answers to simple questions. Of course, I understand that the size of the thread is a tribute to the quality and popularity of Anthem products, their continued support, and assets like Bob Pariseau.


I intend to purchase a D2v as soon as I sell some of my other gear. I remember that it was rumored that the D2v would have a list price of $8000.00, but we later learned that their would be an "introductory" price of $7500.00. My question is this. Is the $7500.00 list price still in effect and, if so, when is it due to expire? Yes, I used the search function on this thread and could not find an answer. Thanks guys.


Jeff.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alembicjeff* /forum/post/16120541
> 
> 
> I have followed this thread for a long time but now, due to its encyclopedic proportions, it is increasingly difficult to find answers to simple questions. Of course, I understand that the size of the thread is a tribute to the quality and popularity of Anthem products, their continued support, and assets like Bob Pariseau.
> 
> 
> I intend to purchase a D2v as soon as I sell some of my other gear. I remember that it was rumored that the D2v would have a list price of $8000.00, but we later learned that their would be an "introductory" price of $7500.00. My question is this. Is the $7500.00 list price still in effect and, if so, when is it due to expire? Yes, I used the search function on this thread and could not find an answer. Thanks guys.
> 
> 
> Jeff.



MSRP in the US is $7499 at the moment.


We keep hearing that dealers are telling customers the price is going to rise "soon", but I've seen nothing official from Anthem and it's not clear how much of that is just a sales tactic (either from the dealer to the customer or from the Anthem distributor to the dealer). Mind you, when it comes to price changes, odds are the dealers really will hear about it before I do.


We've also had numerous reports that dealers are discounting from the MSRP given the current, parlous economic climate. Details on discounting are not supposed to be posted in threads like this. AVS wants us to take that to PMs. So I can't give you any concrete examples.


But it should be obvious that discounting will depend on how hungry your dealer happens to be at the moment.


Also, the reports of discounting came in early -- before the backorder ballooned to 45-60 days. In one sense this makes it easier for the dealer since there's no need to keep product in inventory. In another sense, desperate buyers pay more.

--Bob


----------



## Haroon Malik

Thanks for the update on Dolby Volume. Adding that feature as well would be really wonderful for Anthem. Does Anthem write its own code or does it outsource this service?


What about the source code for Dolby and DTS? I would just like a slight understanding on how it is done. Thanks.


On a sidenote, it would be really incredible if Anthem's next processor comes with an LED screen and lesser buttons like the ML 502 and has an updated remote controller like the Nevo or something similar. To give credit to Anthem their existing remote controller is still a lot better than some others.


The D2v continues to get better and better.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Haroon Malik* /forum/post/16120859
> 
> 
> Thanks for the update on Dolby Volume. Adding that feature as well would be really wonderful for Anthem. Does Anthem write its own code or does it outsource this service?
> 
> 
> What about the source code for Dolby and DTS? I would just like a slight understanding on how it is done. Thanks.
> 
> 
> On a sidenote, it would be really incredible if Anthem's next processor comes with an LED screen and lesser buttons like the ML 502 and has an updated remote controller like the Nevo or something similar. To give credit to Anthem their existing remote controller is still a lot better than some others.
> 
> 
> The D2v continues to get better and better.



I presume the Anthem firmware is a mix of stuff they've generated in house and stuff they've licensed. It does not make sense to "roll your own" for some of these things.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16119716
> 
> 
> Yes - I am running version 2.04. I also get very short and quiet bursts of static noise on occasion from the left surround at times that seem random to me...at least I have not found a pattern.
> 
> 
> I already got a response from Nick at Anthem technical support:
> 
> 
> "Thanks as always for the feedback.
> 
> 
> This is a known issue for v2 and I understand why it causes some uneasiness. Curing it is a matter of increasing mute time between sweeps. The audio DSP is undergoing some major changes (Dolby Volume) so I don't expect a fix for the burst before then."



I have also been having the same issue since my first software update.


----------



## Alembicjeff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16120788
> 
> 
> MSRP in the US is $7499 at the moment.
> 
> 
> We keep hearing that dealers are telling customers the price is going to rise "soon", but I've seen nothing official from Anthem and it's not clear how much of that is just a sales tactic (either from the dealer to the customer or from the Anthem distributor to the dealer). Mind you, when it comes to price changes, odds are the dealers really will hear about it before I do.
> 
> 
> We've also had numerous reports that dealers are discounting from the MSRP given the current, parlous economic climate. Details on discounting are not supposed to be posted in threads like this. AVS wants us to take that to PMs. So I can't give you any concrete examples.
> 
> 
> But it should be obvious that discounting will depend on how hungry your dealer happens to be at the moment.
> 
> 
> Also, the reports of discounting came in early -- before the backorder ballooned to 45-60 days. In one sense this makes it easier for the dealer since there's no need to keep product in inventory. In another sense, desperate buyers pay more.
> 
> --Bob



As always Bob, thanks very much.


----------



## "MIKEY"

Spoke with the owner of Sound & Cinema in the Atlanta, GA area, who indicated that Anthem will begin their D2 uprade process to the D2v in June.


Has anyone else heard of the June timeframe that Anthem will start upgrading existing D2's?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Haroon Malik* /forum/post/16118382
> 
> 
> 1. Anthem LTX-500 [JVC HD-750] - MSRP $7,499
> 
> 
> 2. Anthem LTX-300 [JVC HD-350] - MSRP $5,499
> 
> 
> Availability: Q2 2009.
> 
> 
> 
> I expect better quality control in these projectors as Anthem will test the units they receive and better dealer support since Anthem has a very strong worldwide dealer network.
> 
> http://www.ecoustics.com/ah/reviews/...anthem-ltx-500
> 
> 
> P.S. Screen Innovations is also teaming up with Anthem to offer their Black Diamond screen for potential customers seeking a complete HT package of projector [Anthem], screen [SI], preamp/processor [Anthem] and speakers [Paradigm].




I have ordered the ltx500 thru my dealer to replace my Epson 1080ub, I would have settled for the ltx300 if it has a CMS. Hope the price will be at par with the JVC as its just a rebadged unit.


----------



## Milt99

^^^^^^^^

Not to be Mr. Negative but......

Anthem's dealer "network" stinks at least here in the Great PNW.


----------



## abc999

Then I'm a lucky guy as the Paradigm distributor here in the Philippines is a friend.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/16123565
> 
> 
> Spoke with the owner of Sound & Cinema in the Atlanta, GA area, who indicated that Anthem will begin their D2 uprade process to the D2v in June.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else heard of the June timeframe that Anthem will start upgrading existing D2's?



The most recent news we've heard here is, "Not before June."


I think they actually will make the June timeframe but it isn't real until it happens.


There's also been no final decision on pricing for the upgrades.

--Bob


----------



## lk100

Bob, could you take a look at these results. I'm running a 5.1 system with System Audio speakers in front, SpeakerCraft MT8 in-wall at the rear, and a Sunfire Solitare 10 subwoofer. The amp is a PVA 7. The room is approx 13x18x8.5 with no sound conditioning, no windows and plenty of hard surface area, which may explain the wierd measurements. Also, the high-back recliners may be affecting the upper frequencies of the rears (surrounds). The results played from the D2v sound fantastic to my ears. I tried the Max EQ freguency at 20,000 but I thought I heard some roughness in the mid and upper ranges, so I lowered it to 18,000. Is it possible the ARC can introduce some digital noise if it can't bring the calculations to the targets? Thanks in advance.


Lee


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100* /forum/post/16125868
> 
> 
> Bob, could you take a look at these results. I'm running a 5.1 system with System Audio speakers in front, SpeakerCraft MT8 in-wall at the rear, and a Sunfire Solitare 10 subwoofer. The amp is a PVA 7. The room is approx 13x18x8.5 with no sound conditioning, no windows and plenty of hard surface area, which may explain the wierd measurements. Also, the high-back recliners may be affecting the upper frequencies of the rears (surrounds). The results played from the D2v sound fantastic to my ears. I tried the Max EQ freguency at 20,000 but I thought I heard some roughness in the mid and upper ranges, so I lowered it to 18,000. Is it possible the ARC can introduce some digital noise if it can't bring the calculations to the targets? Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Lee



I am not bob, but if you were used to hearing your speakers without arc, it could sound harsh to you now with the arc correction because arc seems to think that your left front and right front were missing 7db at 15khz which it did correct.

Maybe you should try with the max eq at 15khz or even lower 10khz. Me myself I don't hear a lot above 16khz any more.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100* /forum/post/16125868
> 
> 
> Bob, could you take a look at these results. I'm running a 5.1 system with System Audio speakers in front, SpeakerCraft MT8 in-wall at the rear, and a Sunfire Solitare 10 subwoofer. The amp is a PVA 7. The room is approx 13x18x8.5 with no sound conditioning, no windows and plenty of hard surface area, which may explain the wierd measurements. Also, the high-back recliners may be affecting the upper frequencies of the rears (surrounds). The results played from the D2v sound fantastic to my ears. I tried the Max EQ freguency at 20,000 but I thought I heard some roughness in the mid and upper ranges, so I lowered it to 18,000. Is it possible the ARC can introduce some digital noise if it can't bring the calculations to the targets? Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Lee



There are no serious problems in these charts.


One of the reasons ARC defaults to 5KHz as the upper limit is that speaker directionality can give ARC false data at the highest frequencies. The defects you were hearing in your 20KHz were either due to that or due to ARC diverting resources from the lower frequencies to apply them to the higher frequencies.


Pointing errors in the speakers will compound the directionality problem. The weak Measurement at the highest frequencies for RS and C are likely due to that, but may also be due to the type of grill and how it is mounted over the speaker. Recheck speaker pointing before your next Measurement. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to vertical pointing.


If the problem is a resource issue, it will show up in the charts as more wobbles in the green Calculated curve at lower frequencies in your 20KHz solution. The way to fix that is to give ARC less work to do in correcting the lower frequencies. For example an adjustment in bass configuration for LF/RF to reduce that peak at 90Hz (e.g., closing a bass port), or some room treatments. Or you can just back off from 20KHz until those extra wobbles disappear -- basically what you already did.


In any event, the residual errors you have in your 18KHz solution are small enough that you could very well just declare victory -- i.e., ignore them. In the final analysis, what really matters is how it sounds to you.


One thing you should check though before you do your next Measurement (whenever that might be) is to make sure the internal crossover in your subwoofer is disabled. Its Measured curve is rolling off fast enough at higher frequencies that it looks like it has its own 80Hz crossover active. You don't want that. You want ARC to do all the crossover processing.


Some subwoofers will have a switch to disable their internal crossover. Others will have a separate input for bypassing their internal crossover. Failing either of those, crank up the internal crossover in the sub to the highest frequency setting to get it out of the way as much as possible.

--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16119573
> 
> 
> Secret Sauce. Not just for dessert. Goes with everything.
> 
> 
> By the way, I've seen nothing from Anthem that backs up that article saying ARC applies time domain corrections. Of course Anthem hasn't DENIED they do that, either. I think that writer was just speculating.
> 
> 
> I've gotten lots of hints from Nick at Anthem that they are very proud about ARC and consider it a cut above the competition, but no details as to precisely why.
> 
> --Bob




"Goes with everything", I really like that.










By the way, I did not read anything either suggesting that ARC applies time domain corrections. My saying was from the gentleman called "Warpdrv".

He's the guy that put me in that situation, and me, just like a fool, I ate that

cookie, without knowing that it was not the right cookie to eat. Shame on me, to have been so gobbling. Anyway I learned my lesson now.

But it does leave a sour aftertaste.










Thanks Bob for the accuracy.


Regards,


________ Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16120005
> 
> 
> Lordoftherings
> 
> Don't quote me on what I offered up as information, as Bob stated it was cut and paste from S&V, that may or may not be just spitting out gibberish from lack of information.... I assumed that they were correcting in the time domain which is what Audessey likes to tout as a selling point of their product be it true or not, it could just be a sales pitch
> 
> 
> Bob is more in the know about anything Anthem, and if he says he doesn't know, i'll trust in what he offers up as "The Word of Bob"



Hey Warpdrv,


It's too late now for crying.










Next time, get your sources of informations without assumptions.










I know that Bob is the Man, and you should also known that a little bit harder.


Now, you are, as I am, back on track. So, let's keep it that way, shall we?


From now on, only good cookies with the special secret sauce.










Cheers,


______ Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/16123565
> 
> 
> Spoke with the owner of Sound & Cinema in the Atlanta, GA area, who indicated that Anthem will begin their D2 uprade process to the D2v in June.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else heard of the June timeframe that Anthem will start upgrading existing D2's?



This is accurate. Anthem need to first reduce the backlog on the D2V units before starting the D2 to D2v upgrade program.


----------



## Johnsteph10

As of this week, I'm now one of those creating that backlog.










I just wanted to comment that the customer service aspect of the A/V industry is something much discussed. There are truly too few companies that can honestly be said as to have good customer support.


Going through this thread and talking with Anthem, I am convinced that they definitely have top notch support. They are also committed to continuing to add features and work out bugs.


This is one of the major reasons I went with Anthem over Classe/Cary/Denon.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16127565
> 
> 
> I just wanted to comment that the customer service aspect of the A/V industry is something much discussed. There are truly too few companies that can honestly be said as to have good customer support.
> 
> 
> Going through this thread and talking with Anthem, I am convinced that they definitely have top notch support. They are also committed to continuing to add features and work out bugs.
> 
> 
> This is one of the major reasons I went with Anthem over Classe/Cary/Denon.



+1.


I have several reasons like this for choosing Anthem over competitors.


- Customer support.

- Local dealer (8 miles) who seems to be a straight shooter, which is not always a given in this industry.

- Another is that Anthem does not have this "Pro" or custom installer mode the Audyssey has, but instead gives the end user full access to the capabilities of his equipment.

- Built in North America.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16127565
> 
> 
> As of this week, I'm now one of those creating that backlog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wanted to comment that the customer service aspect of the A/V industry is something much discussed. There are truly too few companies that can honestly be said as to have good customer support.
> 
> 
> Going through this thread and talking with Anthem, I am convinced that they definitely have top notch support. They are also committed to continuing to add features and work out bugs.
> 
> 
> This is one of the major reasons I went with Anthem over Classe/Cary/Denon.



So you were able to work around the issue with your local Anthem dealer? Good!

--Bob


----------



## barhoram

I just recieved my EAP Oppo Blu-Ray player. I have an original D2 w ARC, so will have set the Oppo do all of the decoding and pass LCPM to the D2 over HDMI.


In the oppo setup page, there are settings for speakers sizes and distances. What should those setting be if I've already set those in the D2 (or ARC did I should say)? Should everthing be set to large, and distances 0? or something else?


Also, there is a setting for sample rate max. 48Khz, 96Khz or 192Khz. Should it be set for 192??




Edit...looks like those settings do not apply to LPCM...even though you can select and change them.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/16128805
> 
> 
> I just recieved my EAP Oppo Blu-Ray player. I have an original D2 w ARC, so will have set the Oppo do all of the decoding and pass LCPM to the D2 over HDMI.
> 
> 
> In the oppo setup page, there are settings for speakers sizes and distances. What should those setting be if I've already set those in the D2 (or ARC did I should say)? Should everthing be set to large, and distances 0? or something else?
> 
> 
> Also, there is a setting for sample rate max. 48Khz, 96Khz or 192Khz. Should it be set for 192??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit...looks like those settings do not apply to LPCM...even though you can select and change them.



The Oppo speaker settings only apply to its multi-channel analog outputs, not to HDMI. The Oppo has its analog and HDMI outputs live simultaneously, which is why you can adjust those settings even if you only intend to use HDMI.


The sample rate setting you've found only applies to optical/coax digital audio output, not to HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/16124380
> 
> 
> ^^^^^^^^
> 
> Not to be Mr. Negative but......
> 
> Anthem's dealer "network" stinks at least here in the Great PNW.



+1. I'm glad I already have my D2, and apparently I can work through an integrator to send back for an upgrade, but I'd hate to be a prospective purchaser here.


----------



## Doozer428

I'm supposed to get my D2v next Thursday, but I'll have to check with my dealer this weekend if the parts issue is going to affect me.


I was looking at my Serial to USB adapter drivers to make sure they were Windows certified, and up to date. I noticed that in the device settings, there were choices for the baud rate, stop bits, COM settings, etc. Do I have to configure these? If so, are there recommended settings? The only one I know is the D2v manual says "must support 2 stop bits".


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16134769
> 
> 
> I'm supposed to get my D2v next Thursday, but I'll have to check with my dealer this weekend if the parts issue is going to affect me.
> 
> 
> I was looking at my Serial to USB adapter drivers to make sure they were Windows certified, and up to date. I noticed that in the device settings, there were choices for the baud rate, stop bits, COM settings, etc. Do I have to configure these? If so, are there recommended settings? The only one I know is the D2v manual says "must support 2 stop bits".



I believe the com port should be set to 6 or below, if available.

John


----------



## Johnsteph10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16127942
> 
> 
> So you were able to work around the issue with your local Anthem dealer? Good!
> 
> --Bob



Actually, I was PMed by someone who had a good experience with another Anthem dealer so I am going through them.


The local Anthem "dealer" here was educated as to proper customer care (or so I hear!







).


I can't wait (although my speakers aren't here yet, either).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16134769
> 
> 
> I'm supposed to get my D2v next Thursday, but I'll have to check with my dealer this weekend if the parts issue is going to affect me.
> 
> 
> I was looking at my Serial to USB adapter drivers to make sure they were Windows certified, and up to date. I noticed that in the device settings, there were choices for the baud rate, stop bits, COM settings, etc. Do I have to configure these? If so, are there recommended settings? The only one I know is the D2v manual says "must support 2 stop bits".



Generally speaking, the only thing you need to watch out for is that Windows has assigned the serial port an address of COM6 or less. This shouldn't be a problem unless you have a bunch of other hardware on the computer that Windows handles as COM devices.


I suggest you leave all the other settings just as they defaulted when you did the driver install. If you have a problem using the serial connection to the D2v, THEN is the time to look at that stuff.


Do that during a weekday if you can, so that if you run into a problem you can reach Anthem tech support on the phone. They can walk you through any adjustments that might be necessary. But odds are, if the USB adapter is going to work at all, it will work with its default settings.

--Bob


----------



## triger716

Can someone PM me with what kind of discount I can expect to get on a new D2v? I am tying to decide to go with a used D2 and the upgrade when it becomes available or ordering a brand new D2v. There is no way I can buy the D2v at list of $7500 but if I can expect a 10% - 15% discount from list from a dealer it would probably work out the same as the D2 and the upgrade.


As a side note, and I don't want to take this thread off topic or start to much of a debate, out of the Denon DVD3800BDCI, Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD and the SONY BDP-S5000ES which would be the best Blu ray player when used with the D2 or D2v?


Thanks for all the great info in this thread. I have been following it for a while and I am definitely looking forward to join league Anthem.


----------



## shawnwalters

My new AVM50v is in and ready for pickup!!!! I'll be one of the cool kids soon


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16136895
> 
> 
> My new AVM50v is in and ready for pickup!!!! I'll be one of the cool kids soon



Welcome! The folks over there with the big grins on their faces are the other new owners. Help yourself to chips!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just a reminder: There are fresh cookies available for the first person to power up a new D2v or AVM 50v and confirm that it came with V2.04 firmware (or later) factory installed. Press Select once on the remote to see the firmware version number.


There are also cookies available for the first person to confirm that their new D2v or AVM 50v came bundled with ARC V2.1 (or later) on the ARC installation CD. Install ARC from the CD, run it in Advanced mode, and select About from the Help menu.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem is finally starting to update their public web pages with info on the new processors.


AVM 50v info has now appeared here:

http://www.anthemAV.com/NewSitev2.0/...M30_40_50.html 


So far it looks like they've only put up the PDF of the product data sheet.


The manual for the AVM 50v V2.0x firmware can now be found here:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...OwnersMan.html 


ETA: It looks like they did an Adobe PDF "compression" pass on that manual to reduce its size a bit, and unfortunately this latest version of the manual crashes Preview V4.1 (Apple's default PDF reader app) on my Mac. The file opens without problem using the latest Adobe Reader app. Anthem has been alerted.


ETA 2: They've also added a place holder for the future AVM 50v upgrades program:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/.../Upgrades.html 


--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

I've mentioned this issue on here before and I still have it.


Whether or not related to ARC, I've been having a severe hum/hiss issue ever since installing ARC in my AVM50 last summer. I've attached the following link to show you what mine is doing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FglzO...e=channel_page 


It occurs when switching sources or when a source such as a blu-ray player is not outputting the audio track? Seems to be related to HDMI. It also occurs when I enter the Anthems setup screen. I would like to get an idea of how many people are experiencing this same issue. I've contacted Anthem ever since it started occuring and they say they have duplicated it in their lab but I still have no fix for it. I think I've been very patient waiting for a fix, but I'm starting to give up on getting one but I won't be able to sell it this way either, so I'm kind of stuck.


I've tried reloading the software to no positive results.


I would just like to know if their are others with the same problem and what sort of feedback they are getting back from Anthem.


Bob: If you or any of the other more knowledgeable members have any suggestions, it would be appreciated.


Thanks,


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *triger716* /forum/post/16136878
> 
> 
> As a side note, and I don't want to take this thread off topic or start to much of a debate, out of the Denon DVD3800BDCI, Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD and the SONY BDP-S5000ES which would be the best Blu ray player when used with the D2 or D2v?



I think you should also consider the Oppo BDP-83 when choosing a Blu Ray player.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16139028
> 
> 
> I think you should also consider the Oppo BDP-83 when choosing a Blu Ray player.



Has it been released yet?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16139013
> 
> 
> I've mentioned this issue on here before and I still have it.
> 
> 
> Whether or not related to ARC, I've been having a severe hum/hiss issue ever since installing ARC in my AVM50 last summer. I've attached the following link to show you what mine is doing:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FglzO...e=channel_page
> 
> 
> It occurs when switching sources or when a source such as a blu-ray player is not outputting the audio track? Seems to be related to HDMI. It also occurs when I enter the Anthems setup screen. I would like to get an idea of how many people are experiencing this same issue. I've contacted Anthem ever since it started occuring and they say they have duplicated it in their lab but I still have no fix for it. I think I've been very patient waiting for a fix, but I'm starting to give up on getting one but I won't be able to sell it this way either, so I'm kind of stuck.
> 
> 
> I've tried reloading the software to no positive results.
> 
> 
> I would just like to know if their are others with the same problem and what sort of feedback they are getting back from Anthem.
> 
> 
> Bob: If you or any of the other more knowledgeable members have any suggestions, it would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



I don't have any answers or workarounds for you. Based on some other reports here, it appears to be related to the ARC DSP board installed as part of the upgrade, although your case seems to be a lot more severe than the other reports. That board is used for audio processing whether or not ARC processing itself is enabled.


There's no reason you should have to live with this. Get the unit back to Anthem for warranty service.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16139060
> 
> 
> Has it been released yet?



Not quite. They are doing restricted sales under an Early Adopter Program.


There's a fast moving thread in the Blu-Ray Player forum here that covers all that. Read the first post in that thread, which also contains links to the FAQ and Manual.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16139074
> 
> 
> I don't have any answers or workarounds for you. Based on some other reports here, it appears to be related to the ARC DSP board installed as part of the upgrade, although your case seems to be a lot more severe than the other reports. That board is used for audio processing whether or not ARC processing itself is enabled.
> 
> 
> There's no reason you should have to live with this. Get the unit back to Anthem for warranty service.
> 
> --Bob



I purchased in Nov of 2006. I'm not sure if this issue would fall under their 3 yr warranty coverage or not. I did contact them when it was still within the 2 yr coverage though, so I'm not sure if they would take that into consideration. You are probably right though. It has gone on for far too long. I will likely contact the salesman I purchased it from.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16139103
> 
> 
> Not quite. They are doing restricted sales under an Early Adopter Program.
> 
> 
> There's a fast moving thread in the Blu-Ray Player forum here that covers all that. Read the first post in that thread, which also contains links to the FAQ and Manual.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Yes, I have been following it, but thought I might have missed some news about it being released. I am waiting anxiously for it to be released to the general public like I'm sure many are.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16139181
> 
> 
> I purchased in Nov of 2006. I'm not sure if this issue would fall under their 3 yr warranty coverage or not. I did contact them when it was still within the 2 yr coverage though, so I'm not sure if they would take that into consideration. You are probably right though. It has gone on for far too long. I will likely contact the salesman I purchased it from.



The ARC hardware upgrade has its own warranty. Since the issue surfaced with the ARC hardware upgrade, you are covered for any failure related to that new DSP board.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16139199
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Yes, I have been following it, but thought I might have missed some news about it being released. I am waiting anxiously for it to be released to the general public like I'm sure many are.



My guess is that unrestricted sales will begin in April.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16139211
> 
> 
> My guess is that unrestricted sales will begin in April.
> 
> --Bob



You didn't happen to get one under the EAP?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16139220
> 
> 
> You didn't happen to get one under the EAP?



Nope. I'm a Beta tester.


I got one *BEFORE* EAP!










--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16139240
> 
> 
> Nope. I'm a Beta tester.
> 
> 
> I got one *BEFORE* EAP!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Worth waiting for?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16139318
> 
> 
> Worth waiting for?



I'd say yes.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16139013
> 
> 
> I've mentioned this issue on here before and I still have it.
> 
> 
> Whether or not related to ARC, I've been having a severe hum/hiss issue ever since installing ARC in my AVM50 last summer. I've attached the following link to show you what mine is doing:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FglzO...e=channel_page
> 
> 
> It occurs when switching sources or when a source such as a blu-ray player is not outputting the audio track? Seems to be related to HDMI. It also occurs when I enter the Anthems setup screen. I would like to get an idea of how many people are experiencing this same issue. I've contacted Anthem ever since it started occuring and they say they have duplicated it in their lab but I still have no fix for it. I think I've been very patient waiting for a fix, but I'm starting to give up on getting one but I won't be able to sell it this way either, so I'm kind of stuck.
> 
> 
> I've tried reloading the software to no positive results.
> 
> 
> I would just like to know if their are others with the same problem and what sort of feedback they are getting back from Anthem.
> 
> 
> Bob: If you or any of the other more knowledgeable members have any suggestions, it would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



Yes, I've had a similar problem with my AVM 50 since March 2008 (pre arc). See my post #20569.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/16139679
> 
> 
> Yes, I've had a similar problem with my AVM 50 since March 2008 (pre arc). See my post #20569.



Not that I'm glad you have it, but I'm glad I'm not alone. Perhaps we can get some results in numbers. Can you send me the wma file that you sent to Anthem?


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16137912
> 
> 
> Welcome! The folks over there with the big grins on their faces are the other new owners. Help yourself to chips!
> 
> --Bob



Ok mine came with:


2.0.4 firmware and 2.0.1 ARC. I updated ARC to 2.1 before running it. I did 5 listening positions. Here are my graphs.



















Red = measured; Blue = target; Green = calculated



What do you think? Anything I need to do? If it helps, my setup is...


Paradigm Reference 100s v5's for LCR

Paradigm Reference ADP-590 v5 for Surrounds

Paradigm Reference 10's v5 for Rears

SVS PC13-Ultra Subwoofer

Anthem AVM50v Pre Pro

Anthem MCA50 Power Amp for surrounds and rears

Anthem MCA30 Power Amp for LCR

Panasonic DMP-BD30 Blu Ray Player


I don't have acoustic treatments in place yet except for the front wall (behind the AT screen).


Thanks!!









Shawn


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16139729
> 
> 
> Not that I'm glad you have it, but I'm glad I'm not alone. Perhaps we can get some results in numbers. Can you send me the wma file that you sent to Anthem?



I know how to attach the file to an e mail, but I'm afraid I'm clueless when it comes to attaching an audio file here. Perhaps if you send me your e mail or give iinstructions on how to do it here, I 'll be happy to send it.


----------



## shawnwalters

One more question/issue. The AVM50v seems to be making my image smaller than it used to be. It's like it's scaling it down. I tried to go to the video menu, but I didn't see any settings there that would be causing it. Any idea how to "zoom" it back out?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/16139881
> 
> 
> I know how to attach the file to an e mail, but I'm afraid I'm clueless when it comes to attaching an audio file here. Perhaps if you send me your e mail or give iinstructions on how to do it here, I 'll be happy to send it.



I sent you a pm with my e-mail


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16139934
> 
> 
> One more question/issue. The AVM50v seems to be making my image smaller than it used to be. It's like it's scaling it down. I tried to go to the video menu, but I didn't see any settings there that would be causing it. Any idea how to "zoom" it back out?



Ok nevermind - turning masking off on my projector fixed it. I guess I was double masking it


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16136895
> 
> 
> My new AVM50v is in and ready for pickup!!!! I'll be one of the cool kids soon



Shawnwalters,


Congratulations on delivery of your new AVM 50V! Have you connected your JVC RS10 to it yet? If so, have you had any handshaking issues? Have you noticed a difference in PQ? I'm about a month off from purchasing the JVC RS10 and hope it plays nice with my AVM 50.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16139811
> 
> 
> Ok mine came with:
> 
> 
> 2.0.4 firmware and 2.0.1 ARC. I updated ARC to 2.1 before running it. I did 5 listening positions. Here are my graphs.



First of all, that report that your new AVM 50v came with firmware V2.04 factory installed is good for a cookie! I hope you like them fresh out of the oven...










I'm surprised you didn't also get ARC V2.1 in the box. So there's still a cookie waiting on that one.


-----------------------------------------------


Now as to your charts, your red Measured curves for Left, Center, Right, and Subwoofer all show problems which ARC has done a fine job correcting, but if you can clear up the problems in their uncorrected output things will be better.


Left, Center, and Right are all putting out way too much bass. This would be typical of speakers with powered woofers were the controls are set improperly for the powered woofers. The dip near 150Hz is probably part of the same problem.


To correct for this, ARC has had to push the crossover for Left and Right up to something like 140Hz, which is higher than ideal. Basically ARC is trying to discard all that problem bass.


So check into your settings for those speakers.


Meanwhile your subwoofer is acting very strangely. ARC has corrected this, but I suspect your sub can do better -- which will make the ARC result even better.


It looks to me like you have the internal crossover in the sub enabled and set to a low frequency. You want to disable any crossover in the sub itself. Failing that, crank the crossover setting up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. Right now it is showing a 15dB plummet from 30 Hz to 50Hz, so I wouldn't be surprised to learn you have its crossover set at the lowest frequency setting.


Your surround speakers actually look pretty decent. You've got some sharp variation at the highest frequencies that might be reduced by pointing those speakers a bit more carefully, but really not that bad. Once you fix your Measured bass problems you will likely be able to raise the Max EQ Frequency target to let ARC correct up there and those high freuquency peaks and dips will be tamed.


The results you have now should sound a whole lot better than your uncorrected speakers -- particularly in the bass. Although your bass may sound a bit weak at first if you are used to listening to this uncorrected setup. The main problem with your current ARC solution is the high crossover for L/R which will likely impact music enjoyment.


Anyway, revisit the bass settings on your L/C/R and Sub and do another Measurement if you find things to correct.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/16139679
> 
> 
> Yes, I've had a similar problem with my AVM 50 since March 2008 (pre arc). See my post #20569.



So you had this problem BEFORE putting the ARC DSP board in your AVM 50?


That's a surprise! When you spoke to Nick at Anthem, are you certain he realized your problem happened even without the ARC DSP board being in there? He may have just assumed it was the newer problem.


In any event, I don't know of any firmware issue being worked as regards the pre-ARC AVM 50 units that might fix this. I've only heard that they are working out a problem with some units after the ARC DSP board change. I think you may need hardware service.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16140623
> 
> 
> First of all, that report that your new AVM 50v came with firmware V2.04 factory installed is good for a cookie! I hope you like them fresh out of the oven...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm surprised you didn't also get ARC V2.1 in the box. So there's still a cookie waiting on that one.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now as to your charts, your red Measured curves for Left, Center, Right, and Subwoofer all show problems which ARC has done a fine job correcting, but if you can clear up the problems in their uncorrected output things will be better.
> 
> 
> Left, Center, and Right are all putting out way too much bass. This would be typical of speakers with powered woofers were the controls are set improperly for the powered woofers. The dip near 150Hz is probably part of the same problem.
> 
> 
> To correct for this, ARC has had to push the crossover for Left and Right up to something like 140Hz, which is higher than ideal. Basically ARC is trying to discard all that problem bass.
> 
> 
> So check into your settings for those speakers.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile your subwoofer is acting very strangely. ARC has corrected this, but I suspect your sub can do better -- which will make the ARC result even better.
> 
> 
> It looks to me like you have the internal crossover in the sub enabled and set to a low frequency. You want to disable any crossover in the sub itself. Failing that, crank the crossover setting up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. Right now it is showing a 15dB plummet from 30 Hz to 50Hz, so I wouldn't be surprised to learn you have its crossover set at the lowest frequency setting.
> 
> 
> Your surround speakers actually look pretty decent. You've got some sharp variation at the highest frequencies that might be reduced by pointing those speakers a bit more carefully, but really not that bad. Once you fix your Measured bass problems you will likely be able to raise the Max EQ Frequency target to let ARC correct up there and those high freuquency peaks and dips will be tamed.
> 
> 
> The results you have now should sound a whole lot better than your uncorrected speakers -- particularly in the bass. Although your bass may sound a bit weak at first if you are used to listening to this uncorrected setup. The main problem with your current ARC solution is the high crossover for L/R which will likely impact music enjoyment.
> 
> 
> Anyway, revisit the bass settings on your L/C/R and Sub and do another Measurement if you find things to correct.
> 
> --Bob



I had a different interpretation (also knowing his fronts don't have powered bass). It looks to me like super-exaggerated bass response due to room acoustics/speaker placement. Like the fronts are all smashed into corners, with minimal bass traps in those corners. Moving them away from the walls, and adding real traps should help a lot.


Also, his room I think is a perfect box, with almost nothing breaking it up except for furniture, so that's not helping things.


If the sub is also placed in a corner, then the drop-off might actually be an exaggerated peak below 50, like with the fronts?


----------



## shawnwalters

Bob - thank you very much for the info!


The LCR are all Paradigm Studio 100's, so there are no controls to adjust on the speaker themselves. Could it be all the bass traps and linacoustic I added behind them (behind the AT screen)? I can't move them anywhere else since they are being the screen.


The sub - I'm almost sure I have the crossover disabled, but I will double check in the morning.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16140722
> 
> 
> I had a different interpretation (also knowing his fronts don't have powered bass). It looks to me like super-exaggerated bass response due to room acoustics/speaker placement. Like the fronts are all smashed into corners, with minimal bass traps in those corners. Moving them away from the walls, and adding real traps should help a lot.
> 
> 
> Also, his room I think is a perfect box, with almost nothing breaking it up except for furniture, so that's not helping things.
> 
> 
> If the sub is also placed in a corner, then the drop-off might actually be an exaggerated peak below 50, like with the fronts?



My room is 21 long x 14 wide.


Here are the bass traps and here is the linacoustic and here are the speakers:



























I'm thinking maybe I need to pull them out from the wall a bit more towards the screen. Another thought is one of the bass drivers in the 100's is probably firing right at the screen frame. But before someone suggests it, I'm not redoing my room!!!


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/16140181
> 
> 
> Shawnwalters,
> 
> 
> Congratulations on delivery of your new AVM 50V! Have you connected your JVC RS10 to it yet? If so, have you had any handshaking issues? Have you noticed a difference in PQ? I'm about a month off from purchasing the JVC RS10 and hope it plays nice with my AVM 50.



Thanks! No issues whatsoever, yet at least. Very happy with it so far


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16140722
> 
> 
> I had a different interpretation (also knowing his fronts don't have powered bass). It looks to me like super-exaggerated bass response due to room acoustics/speaker placement. Like the fronts are all smashed into corners, with minimal bass traps in those corners. Moving them away from the walls, and adding real traps should help a lot.
> 
> 
> Also, his room I think is a perfect box, with almost nothing breaking it up except for furniture, so that's not helping things.
> 
> 
> If the sub is also placed in a corner, then the drop-off might actually be an exaggerated peak below 50, like with the fronts?



You could very well be right, but it would be one of the more extreme examples we've seen here of installation related bass problems. It's not so much the size of the peak/dip as the range of frequencies it seems to be spanning.


Anyway, from Shawn's pictures I think speaker placement/installation stuff should definitely be investigated. Maybe the installers put in bass reflectors instead of bass traps.









--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16140803
> 
> 
> You could very well be right, but it would be one of the more extreme examples we've seen here of installation related bass problems. It's not so much the size of the peak/dip as the range of frequencies it seems to be spanning.
> 
> 
> Anyway, from Shawn's pictures I think speaker placement/installation stuff should definitely be investigated. Maybe the installers put in bass reflectors instead of bass traps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Hey now..I'm the installer!







Its DIY! I will look into it tomorrow though.


----------



## shawnwalters

One more question, is there a way to run ARC and see the graphs without actually loading everything to the anthem? ie to see how that tweak worked, how this tweak worked etc?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16141035
> 
> 
> One more question, is there a way to run ARC and see the graphs without actually loading everything to the anthem? ie to see how that tweak worked, how this tweak worked etc?



Sure. Run ARC in Advanced mode.


That will let you do Measurements, Calculations, and Uploads separately.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters

Excellent thanks Bob.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16140771
> 
> 
> I'm thinking maybe I need to pull them out from the wall a bit more towards the screen. Another thought is one of the bass drivers in the 100's is probably firing right at the screen frame. But before someone suggests it, I'm not redoing my room!!!



Nice room, just make sure that the woofer from your front speakers are not at equal distance for all 3 room boundaries. Meaning if you measure the height to the woofer, it should be different than the distance from the side wall to the woofer, which should also be different than the distance to the back wall.


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16140692
> 
> 
> So you had this problem BEFORE putting the ARC DSP board in your AVM 50?
> 
> 
> That's a surprise! When you spoke to Nick at Anthem, are you certain he realized your problem happened even without the ARC DSP board being in there? He may have just assumed it was the newer problem.
> 
> 
> In any event, I don't know of any firmware issue being worked as regards the pre-ARC AVM 50 units that might fix this. I've only heard that they are working out a problem with some units after the ARC DSP board change. I think you may need hardware service.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I initially apprised Anthem of my problem in March 2008. They suggested I download the latest firmware version for my unit from the beta software site, providing me with a user name and password. I uploaded it and the hissing / popping noises went away for a short period, but then came back. It's weird because it seems everytime I have uploaded to the latest version of software, the noises stop, but then after a period of time, it will start again, and then it will become sporadic, until finally it will just do it everytime I turn the equipment on.


In my follow up e mails I did let Nick know the problem started in March 2008, which is before Arc came out, so I hope he realized this. In any case, I hope the good folks at Anthem will find the time to address my problem. I will e mail Nick this week.


----------



## jayray

I had the same problem with my AVM 50 prior to ARC and the new DSP board did not fix it or make it worse. I had the latest firmware as well.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16142599
> 
> 
> I had the same problem with my AVM 50 prior to ARC and the new DSP board did not fix it or make it worse. I had the latest firmware as well.
> 
> 
> John



John, your noise was as bad as demonstrated in that YouTube above?

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters

I feel compelled to say, that even with my bass problem as evident by the graphs, the sound is SO MUCH BETTER than my denon 3808. I am extremely happy with it so far


















> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/16141527
> 
> 
> Nice room, just make sure that the woofer from your front speakers are not at equal distance for all 3 room boundaries. Meaning if you measure the height to the woofer, it should be different than the distance from the side wall to the woofer, which should also be different than the distance to the back wall.



Thanks. The 100's have three bass drivers. So just make sure that the range of height of the lowest one through the highest one is not the same distance as the wall to the woofers?


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16142984
> 
> 
> I feel compelled to say, that even with my bass problem as evident by the graphs, the sound is SO MUCH BETTER than my denon 3808. I am extremely happy with it so far




Congrats shawn....


And thank you for the comment on the upgrade from the denon, makes me even more confident about my move from the pioneer receiver to the D2v when it gets here...










Where is that delivery truck... ??


----------



## shawnwalters

Ok here are the remeasured graphs. Just measured and target (I didn't calculate).



















I moved the speakers more towards the screen to give them a little more room behind them. I also checked the subwoofer settings. The crossover was disabled. But the phase setting was set I believe the wrong way, so I turned that down. There are also EQ settings on the subwoofer that I can tweak as well.


It seems maybe a little better? Next I can try to put some temporary bass traps in the rear corners of the room to see how that affects things. And possibly rest an acoustic panel on the floor at the first reflection points. (I'm not ready to install them yet because I haven't selected a fabric to use yet)


I am not sure if it matters, but when the ARC does it's measurements and changes from one speaker to the next, I hear a static noise type of sound from the speakers for just a millisecond. Is this normal?


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16142984
> 
> 
> Thanks. The 100's have three bass drivers. So just make sure that the range of height of the lowest one through the highest one is not the same distance as the wall to the woofers?



The idea behind it is not to have the bass drivers couple to the room boundary at the same frequency so it should smooth out the bass response a little bit. If you have multiple drivers and room placement constraints, it may not be possible to do it. But the less work you give to arc to correct, the better it can do it.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16143200
> 
> 
> Ok here are the remeasured graphs. Just measured and target (I didn't calculate).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I moved the speakers more towards the screen to give them a little more room behind them. I also checked the subwoofer settings. The crossover was disabled. But the phase setting was set I believe the wrong way, so I turned that down. There are also EQ settings on the subwoofer that I can tweak as well.
> 
> 
> It seems maybe a little better? Next I can try to put some temporary bass traps in the rear corners of the room to see how that affects things. And possibly rest an acoustic panel on the floor at the first reflection points. (I'm not ready to install them yet because I haven't selected a fabric to use yet)
> 
> 
> I am not sure if it matters, but when the ARC does it's measurements and changes from one speaker to the next, I hear a static noise type of sound from the speakers for just a millisecond. Is this normal?





Shawn, do you have your sepaker Left, front, center, set to small or large? If set to large you may want to try setting them to small and remeasure to see how that pans out. Also, moving your l/f speakers away from the sides of your room, towards the center.. just a bit may also help some.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16142859
> 
> 
> John, your noise was as bad as demonstrated in that YouTube above?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Yes it was.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16143531
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Yes it was.
> 
> John



Ouch. I thought you were describing a barely audible hiss between source audio streams -- i.e., something much less dramatic than that YouTube recording.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16143200
> 
> 
> Ok here are the remeasured graphs. Just measured and target (I didn't calculate).
> 
> 
> I moved the speakers more towards the screen to give them a little more room behind them. I also checked the subwoofer settings. The crossover was disabled. But the phase setting was set I believe the wrong way, so I turned that down. There are also EQ settings on the subwoofer that I can tweak as well.
> 
> 
> It seems maybe a little better? Next I can try to put some temporary bass traps in the rear corners of the room to see how that affects things. And possibly rest an acoustic panel on the floor at the first reflection points. (I'm not ready to install them yet because I haven't selected a fabric to use yet)
> 
> 
> I am not sure if it matters, but when the ARC does it's measurements and changes from one speaker to the next, I hear a static noise type of sound from the speakers for just a millisecond. Is this normal?



You should go ahead and Calculate and see what sort of solution ARC gives you for these Measurements. You have already tackled the bulk of the problem. ARC is now giving you a crossover for LF/RF more like 60Hz which is fine, and the Measured response from your subwoofer is normal again.


I suspect ARC will give you pretty good results from these Measurements.


LF/RF and C could use a little more tweaking in the same direction you are already doing, but you are probably close enough for ARC to take it from here. The room null at 150-200Hz is likely to be your biggest problem.


Try this. Make two copies of your Measurements file. Open the first in Advanced mode and do a Calculation at the default Target settings. Now open the second and raise Max EQ Frequency in the Targets window to 20KHz and do another Calculation. Now compare the green Results curve for those two solutions. The 20KHz solution should look better at the highest frequencies. But what you are looking for is whether the 20KHz solution looks worse (more wobbles either side of the Target curves) at the lower frequencies. If so, that means ARC needs more resources down there and can't also handle the high frequency stuff. By further reducing the correction ARC has to do down there (additional positioning adjustments in the speakers) or reducing the correction ARC has to do when you put it to work on the highest frequencies (re-pointing the speakers that need the most correction up there) you can achieve a solution that works well all the way across.


These Calculation experiments on a given Measurements file are trivial to do. You don't have to re-Measure, and you don't have to Upload until you get a solution that looks good.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16143499
> 
> 
> Shawn, do you have your sepaker Left, front, center, set to small or large? If set to large you may want to try setting them to small and remeasure to see how that pans out. Also, moving your l/f speakers away from the sides of your room, towards the center.. just a bit may also help some.



ARC Measurements ignore the Small vs. Large speaker settings in Setup > Speaker Configuration.


The full frequency range is Measured regardless of those settings and ARC by default will do its Calculations using the "advanced" settings which do bass steering (if you have a subwoofer) -- i.e., as if you had manually set up a "small" speaker configuration.


In the Targets window you can force ARC to treat speakers as "full range" -- which means no bass steering, although ARC will still apply a roll off to them as part of establishing the room correction solution.


When you do the Upload, your speaker configuration in Setup will be set to the "advanced" settings, and crossovers and such will be adjusted to match ARC's solution.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16143649
> 
> 
> ARC Measurements ignore the Small vs. Large speaker settings in Setup > Speaker Configuration.
> 
> 
> The full frequency range is Measured regardless of those settings and ARC by default will do its Calculations using the "advanced" settings which do bass steering (if you have a subwoofer) -- i.e., as if you had manually set up a "small" speaker configuration.
> 
> 
> In the Targets window you can force ARC to treat speakers as "full range" -- which means no bass steering, although ARC will still apply a roll off to them as part of establishing the room correction solution.
> 
> 
> When you do the Upload, your speaker configuration in Setup will be set to the "advanced" settings, and crossovers and such will be adjusted to match ARC's solution.
> 
> --Bob




Ahhh yes. Thank you for correcting me on this.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

My Video Board went bad on my D2 about 3 weeks ago. I had one of the original builds about 2 and 1/2 years ago... perhaps 3?


Anyway, I sent it in to Anthem, they confirmed and swapped out the video board and the D2 is now being returned in the mail.


I had requested that they upgrade it to the D2V2 while they had it but I was told by tech support that they had not yet finalized what the upgrade would include as of yet... new faceplate?, video board etc. etc.


So, my request for killing two birds with one stone ended up not going through.


I should be receiving my repaired D2 some time this week. Turn around time will end up being 2-4 weeks and about $150 for shipping.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16143618
> 
> 
> You should go ahead and Calculate and see what sort of solution ARC gives you for these Measurements. You have already tackled the bulk of the problem. ARC is now giving you a crossover for LF/RF more like 60Hz which is fine, and the Measured response from your subwoofer is normal again.
> 
> 
> I suspect ARC will give you pretty good results from these Measurements.
> 
> 
> LF/RF and C could use a little more tweaking in the same direction you are already doing, but you are probably close enough for ARC to take it from here. The room null at 150-200Hz is likely to be your biggest problem.
> 
> 
> Try this. Make two copies of your Measurements file. Open the first in Advanced mode and do a Calculation at the default Target settings. Now open the second and raise Max EQ Frequency in the Targets window to 20KHz and do another Calculation. Now compare the green Results curve for those two solutions. The 20KHz solution should look better at the highest frequencies. But what you are looking for is whether the 20KHz solution looks worse (more wobbles either side of the Target curves) at the lower frequencies. If so, that means ARC needs more resources down there and can't also handle the high frequency stuff. By further reducing the correction ARC has to do down there (additional positioning adjustments in the speakers) or reducing the correction ARC has to do when you put it to work on the highest frequencies (re-pointing the speakers that need the most correction up there) you can achieve a solution that works well all the way across.
> 
> 
> These Calculation experiments on a given Measurements file are trivial to do. You don't have to re-Measure, and you don't have to Upload until you get a solution that looks good.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob. Before I read your post, I tweaked my LCR placement a little bit more and changed some settings on the sub's eq and re-measured.


Below are two sets of charts, one is the new measurement with calculations, and one is the new measurement with the 20KHz setting in the max eq frequency.


How does this measurement/calculation look and is the standard calculation better or the 20KHz?


Thanks so much


Standard Calculation


















Calculation with 20KHz in Max EQ


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16143956
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob. Before I read your post, I tweaked my LCR placement a little bit more and changed some settings on the sub's eq and re-measured.
> 
> 
> Below are two sets of charts, one is the new measurement with calculations, and one is the new measurement with the 20KHz setting in the max eq frequency.
> 
> 
> How does this measurement/calculation look and is the standard calculation better or the 20KHz?
> 
> 
> Thanks so much



Your 20KHz solution looks quite good. As I'd hoped you are not getting any significant degradation at the lower frequencies. An Upload of this 20KHz solution should sound very good indeed.


You've got the major problems under control. Now you are down to tweaks.


Your subwoofer has a peak at 20Hz. This is likely "boundary gain" and should be curable by moving it a few inches further away from the nearest wall/corner. Even inches matter at these frequencies. This is down in the subsonics of course -- stuff you feel rather than hear -- so it isn't going to affect most listening. For example you won't get musical instruments down there (with the exception of some pipe organs). Nevertheless, you are about 5dB hot at 20Hz even after ARC's correction. This is enough that it is worth trying to reduce it a bit. See if you can get the green Calculated curve within about 3dB of the Target curve at 20Hz.


All 4 surround speakers have a spike at 20KHz that is more than ARC will correct. This could just be the characteristic of these surrounds but it is worth taking a close look at how they are pointed, as frequencies that high are directional and many speakers have odd dispersal characteristics for the highest frequencies. If these surrounds are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing. In-wall/in-ceiling speakers are particularly challenging in this regard, not just because they are hard to adjust, but because the details of their embedded mounting and grill cover will also affect their response at the highest frequencies. Again, you could easily live with what you have here already, but if you have some adjustment flexibility it is worth a try. Again, try to improve the Measured curves up there enough that ARC corrects to within, say 3dB.


The other residual errors in LF and RR are small enough that you should probably just ignore them.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16143584
> 
> 
> Ouch. I thought you were describing a barely audible hiss between source audio streams -- i.e., something much less dramatic than that YouTube recording.
> 
> --Bob



Mine is deafening if I don't remember to press mute or turn the volume down significantly before switching inputs or opening my setup screen. It sends the cats scrambling and everyone else gritting their teeth.


Jayray: Did you ever resolve the issue? I assume you no longer have the AVM50, but did someone else buy it from you with that issue?


Mine occurs in my front left, center, left rear and surround rear. The other channels are fine.


I sent another e-mail to Nick. Sure would be nice to have it resolved as I feel handcuffed to hanging onto it as I am considering the D2v, but can't sell this the way it is.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16144535
> 
> 
> Your 20KHz solution looks quite good. As I'd hoped you are not getting any significant degradation at the lower frequencies. An Upload of this 20KHz solution should sound very good indeed.
> 
> 
> You've got the major problems under control. Now you are down to tweaks.
> 
> 
> Your subwoofer has a peak at 20Hz. This is likely "boundary gain" and should be curable by moving it a few inches further away from the nearest wall/corner. Even inches matter at these frequencies. This is down in the subsonics of course -- stuff you feel rather than hear -- so it isn't going to affect most listening. For example you won't get musical instruments down there (with the exception of some pipe organs). Nevertheless, you are about 5dB hot at 20Hz even after ARC's correction. This is enough that it is worth trying to reduce it a bit. See if you can get the green Calculated curve within about 3dB of the Target curve at 20Hz.
> 
> 
> All 4 surround speakers have a spike at 20KHz that is more than ARC will correct. This could just be the characteristic of these surrounds but it is worth taking a close look at how they are pointed, as frequencies that high are directional and many speakers have odd dispersal characteristics for the highest frequencies. If these surrounds are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing. In-wall/in-ceiling speakers are particularly challenging in this regard, not just because they are hard to adjust, but because the details of their embedded mounting and grill cover will also affect their response at the highest frequencies. Again, you could easily live with what you have here already, but if you have some adjustment flexibility it is worth a try. Again, try to improve the Measured curves up there enough that ARC corrects to within, say 3dB.
> 
> 
> The other residual errors in LF and RR are small enough that you should probably just ignore them.
> 
> --Bob



Bob thanks so much for the help. I moved the sub away from the back wall again and re-ran ARC. Here are the latest graphs with 20KHz set as max eq.



















It seems the sub peak at 20hz has been corrected. How do these graphs look now?


Thanks again


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16144901
> 
> 
> Bob thanks so much for the help. I moved the sub away from the back wall again and re-ran ARC. Here are the latest graphs with 20KHz set as max eq.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems the sub peak at 20hz has been corrected. How do these graphs look now?
> 
> 
> Thanks again



I'm not Bob P.; but, I say your measurements look good. Now, it's time for some listening to see how it sounds to you. That's the real test. Upload the results and listen for a while. I think you will enjoy what you hear.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16144901
> 
> 
> Bob thanks so much for the help. I moved the sub away from the back wall again and re-ran ARC. Here are the latest graphs with 20KHz set as max eq.It seems the sub peak at 20hz has been corrected. How do these graphs look now?
> 
> 
> Thanks again



Sure. That's the idea.


Now you still have the 20KHz peaks in the surrounds to think about. Re-pointing the surrounds would be the first thing to think about.


Also, compare your LS/RS to your LR/RR surrounds. Note that the LS/RS are weaker in the bass. ARC has set a higher crossover for them (compared to LR/RR).


This is not really a problem. Where they are now in this solution is fine. But it's an indication that the timbre of the speakers will likely vary a bit as sounds pan around the room through LS or RS.


So see if you can think of anything different in your setup for LS/RS compared to LR/RR that might explain the somewhat weaker bass in LS/RS.


Again, you are getting down to the fine tweaks here. You could quite reasonably declare victory at this point and just go enjoy!

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16145090
> 
> 
> I'm not Bob P.; but, I say your measurements look good. Now, it's time for some listening to see how it sounds to you. That's the real test. Upload the results and listen for a while. I think you will enjoy what you hear.



Thank you! I'm going to give ARC a rest for now, upload the results and watch a movie or two











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16145100
> 
> 
> Sure. That's the idea.
> 
> 
> Now you still have the 20KHz peaks in the surrounds to think about. Re-pointing the surrounds would be the first thing to think about.
> 
> 
> Also, compare your LS/RS to your LR/RR surrounds. Note that the LS/RS are weaker in the bass. ARC has set a higher crossover for them (compared to LR/RR).
> 
> 
> This is not really a problem. Where they are now in this solution is fine. But it's an indication that the timbre of the speakers will likely vary a bit as sounds pan around the room through LS or RS.
> 
> 
> So see if you can think of anything different in your setup for LS/RS compared to LR/RR that might explain the somewhat weaker bass in LS/RS.
> 
> 
> Again, you are getting down to the fine tweaks here. You could quite reasonably declare victory at this point and just go enjoy!
> 
> --Bob



Thanks again Bob! I will declare a victory, at least for the day.







In the next week or so I will be working on the acoustic panels and will remeasure after I do my first reflection points and such.


As to the surrounds/rears, you nailed it a few posts back, they are too high on the wall - about 2' above seated ear level. In addition, the surrounds are tripole ADP's and the rears are directs (Studio 10's). I have the rears aimed down as far as I can, but the surrounds cannot be aimed, only remounted. And it's all wired in the wall with 2x4 blocking at that location, so I don't want to tear down my wall and redo right now







. I am hoping that the acoustic panels will help tame those higher frequencies.


Thanks again for the help, I truly appreciate it. Now it's movie time and time to enjoy the new measurements







I'll post my review of them shortly.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16144540
> 
> 
> Mine is deafening if I don't remember to press mute or turn the volume down significantly before switching inputs or opening my setup screen. It sends the cats scrambling and everyone else gritting their teeth.
> 
> 
> Jayray: Did you ever resolve the issue? I assume you no longer have the AVM50, but did someone else buy it from you with that issue?
> 
> 
> Mine occurs in my front left, center, left rear and surround rear. The other channels are fine.
> 
> 
> I sent another e-mail to Nick. Sure would be nice to have it resolved as I feel handcuffed to hanging onto it as I am considering the D2v, but can't sell this the way it is.



It did not get resolved. I did sell it with full disclosure.

John


----------



## jayray

Was wondering how to get those 5 db. dips out in the 100-200hz range of my front and center speakers. I have Studio 100s v.4 and CC690 center.

thanks

John

 

ARC Measurement Files B.doc 69.5k . file

 

ARC Measurement Files A.doc 70.5k . file


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16146276
> 
> 
> Was wondering how to get those 5 db. dips out in the 100-200hz range of my front and center speakers. I have Studio 100s v.4 and CC690 center.



Can you describe how they are set up wrt to walls? I suspect SBIR .


----------



## jclem

Shawn, regarding your ARC charts and the excessive bass that the L/C/R's are putting out(as noted by Bob)---None of the experts have mentioned it, and I am certainly not an acoustics person by any means, so this may be a stupid idea, but I'm going to throw it out there anyway >>>>> You obviously have an AT screen and the speakers are behind, sitting on the floor. I'm wondering if the bottom frame of the screen, which cuts across the center? of the 3 speakers is doing something strange to the bass delivery? If so, maybe raising the speakers will help and then lean them forward a bit so the tweeters are directed more toward the listeners??


Also, just a point of interest: I have spikes at 20kHz in my surrounds which are very similar to yours and I also have Paradigms--although mine are SA35 in-walls. I wonder if this is a Paradigm characteristic?? Seems odd since Paradigm and Anthem are the same family.


----------



## lessm1

I received my new d2v on Friday and it has made a huge difference in my theater. One problem however. I attempted to use the ARC and it validated the SSP serial number but then gave me a mic mismatch error and check the USB connection. The serial number on the sticker attached to the microphone is different from that of the receiver. Any ideas on what happened and how I can correct it?


I was running firmware version 2.02c at the time but since upgraded to 2.04.


----------



## Montekay

My D2 was purchased before ARC. I may be unique in that I really don't need it because I believe I can already do everything that it does with the use of digital crossovers. Nevertheless, it might be interesting to play with. I wonder what its actual capabilities are? What's the maximum Q for example for notches? My crossover is limited to 20 Hz so if ARC could set a room mode notch below 20 Hz then it would be useful. I have a room mode at 18 Hz.


I use an Earthworks M30 microphone for reference measurements so I wonder if any microphone correction curve built into ARC can be disabled so I could use that microphone? I would probably be too suspect of the included microphone although I'm sure that Anthem would apply a calibration curve to correct any issues with it.


I know one of my early complaints about the D2 was that the manually set room notches were applied only to the subwoofer output. Problem is that I don't use the subwoofer output so I had no way to use the D2 to apply notches. If ARC is the same then I wouldn't be able to use it. I do use two subwoofers, I just don't use the subwoofer outputs of the D2. I use only the main outputs and then crossover between the woofers and the mains at 50 Hz.


So I don't know if it would be worth trying ARC or not. It would be nice having it dial everything in automatically instead of having to do it manually. Of course manual calibration would seem to provide more flexibility. If as mentioned above it applies room notches only to the subwoofer output then that would settle it as being not an option but if it can work on the main outs and especially if it can notch out my 18 Hz mode then it might be worth a try.


Monte


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lessm1* /forum/post/16146882
> 
> 
> I received my new d2v on Friday and it has made a huge difference in my theater. One problem however. I attempted to use the ARC and it validated the SSP serial number but then gave me a mic mismatch error and check the USB connection. The serial number on the sticker attached to the microphone is different from that of the receiver. Any ideas on what happened and how I can correct it?
> 
> 
> I was running firmware version 2.02c at the time but since upgraded to 2.04.



The serial number on the ARC mic is unique to that ARC mic and is supposed to be different from the serial number of your D2v.


Go into your main drive (usually C: ) > Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction. This is were the ARC application gets installed. In there you should also find two files with names made up of numbers. The numbers will be the serial number of your D2v and the serial number of your ARC mic. If you are missing one of those two files you can find it on your ARC install CD. Check that the numbers in the names for those two files in fact match the serial numbers of your D2v and ARC mic. If there is a mismatch, call Anthem tech support so they can get you the correct files.


Once you have confirmed that the files are installed correctly on your PC, the next step is, in fact to check your USB connection to the mic. Make sure the plugs are fully inserted at each end.


The most common reason ARC can't find your mic is that something is preventing it from getting to the mic on the USB connection. This could be due to some other mic you have installed on your computer, or it could be due to a problem in the setup of your USB ports. If you are using a USB hub for example, try directly connecting to the computer instead.


In Windows > Control Panel look for Hardware Manager and see if it reports any problem on your USB ports or attached USB devices. See if the ARC mic is showing in Hardware Manager as an attached USB device.


Also note that you must use Windows XP or later to run ARC. If you have a Windows 2000 computer (or older) it will not have the necessary Microsoft audio input software that ARC uses to access the microphone.


If these suggestions don't lead to a solution, give Anthem tech support a call on Monday. It is probably something simple, but this sort of stuff is usually much easier to diagnose if you can talk to someone while walking through the steps.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16146997
> 
> 
> My D2 was purchased before ARC. I may be unique in that I really don't need it because I believe I can already do everything that it does with the use of digital crossovers. Nevertheless, it might be interesting to play with. I wonder what its actual capabilities are? What's the maximum Q for example for notches? My crossover is limited to 20 Hz so if ARC could set a room mode notch below 20 Hz then it would be useful. I have a room mode at 18 Hz.
> 
> 
> I use an Earthworks M30 microphone for reference measurements so I wonder if any microphone correction curve built into ARC can be disabled so I could use that microphone? I would probably be too suspect of the included microphone although I'm sure that Anthem would apply a calibration curve to correct any issues with it.
> 
> 
> I know one of my early complaints about the D2 was that the manually set room notches were applied only to the subwoofer output. Problem is that I don't use the subwoofer output so I had no way to use the D2 to apply notches. If ARC is the same then I wouldn't be able to use it. I do use two subwoofers, I just don't use the subwoofer outputs of the D2. I use only the main outputs and then crossover between the woofers and the mains at 50 Hz.
> 
> 
> So I don't know if it would be worth trying ARC or not. It would be nice having it dial everything in automatically instead of having to do it manually. Of course manual calibration would seem to provide more flexibility. If as mentioned above it applies room notches only to the subwoofer output then that would settle it as being not an option but if it can work on the main outs and especially if it can notch out my 18 Hz mode then it might be worth a try.
> 
> 
> Monte



Monte,

ARC is not anything like a traditional parametric filter EQ system. There are no notch filters to control and there's no equivalent of controlling the Q of filters.


ARC provides correction on all speaker output channels. It measures and corrects down to 5Hz, although its charts only show down to 20Hz.


ARC is fully capable of working with no subs connected to the sub outputs of the Anthem. A number of folks here are using main speakers with satellite subs attached to them -- just another variant of a "full range" main speaker -- and ARC handles that just fine.


ARC comes with an individually calibrated mic -- a calibration data file comes with the ARC install kit -- and only that ARC mic can be used with ARC.


ARC is much more sophisticated than the Room Resonance Filter you have found on your D2. It processes mic measurements from all of your speakers at multiple mic locations and comes up with a solution that utilizes the capabilities of the various speakers together.


For example, since you have no subwoofer configured, ARC will arrange to steer bass from your Center and surround speakers to your main speakers with their satellite subs, and it will adjust crossovers and room correction parameters automatically to make that work right.


If you try ARC you may find that you get the best results by disabling your current room EQ stuff and letting ARC do all the work. At the price, you can hardly go wrong giving ARC a try.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16146276
> 
> 
> Was wondering how to get those 5 db. dips out in the 100-200hz range of my front and center speakers. I have Studio 100s v.4 and CC690 center.
> 
> thanks
> 
> John



I think Roger's question about speaker placement is key. You need to change how those three speakers are coupling to your room.


By the way, it is best to include the red Measured curves in charts like this as well. That will give us a better idea of what really needs correcting, and just how much improvement you need to produce to get things in the range ARC can fully correct. Sometimes ARC's limits at one frequency are due to work it has to do elsewhere for example.

--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16142984
> 
> 
> I feel compelled to say, that even with my bass problem as evident by the graphs, the sound is SO MUCH BETTER than my denon 3808. I am extremely happy with it so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. The 100's have three bass drivers. So just make sure that the range of height of the lowest one through the highest one is not the same distance as the wall to the woofers?



Hi Shawn,


Your room setup looks gorgeous. Congratulations!


Correct, the lower woofer distance from the floor should be different to the distance from the side wall, and also different distance to the rear wall.

So, all three distances should be all different from each other.

And this, calculated from the dust cap of your lower woofer.


Also, for an additional tip, always oversighted by 99.9% of people.

"Discenter" the center speaker, Don't put it right in the middle of your two main flanking speakers, just off-center it by only about 6 inces to one foot maximum, 9 inches will be just about right in your room.


Plus, toe in your front side speakers by about 20 degrees on the inside, so they aim roughly at about 3 to 6 feet behind your listening position.

This is a recommended position from Paradigm, but not only that, also because it will prevent side wall reflections from your speakers.

Best is to use a laser light where the beams met at the exact same spot, behind the middle of your head, calculated from the center of the tweeters.


Do these measurements first, and then redo the Anthem Automatic Room Correction (ARC).


Make also sure that your subwoofer(s), is (are) set to the 0 degree phase position, and like Bob said, maximum Low Pass Filter position, or Bypass mode, if available.

The Gain (volume level) on the rear of your subwoofer(s), should be set to about 1/3 to 1/2 maximum of it's rotating knob.


If you need more help to get the lower frequencies well balanced in your room, please just ask. That's only one of my specialties. I do have a vast experience with loudspeaker and subwoofer placement, for various type of rooms, and their limitations. And when you start by proper positioning of all your speakers in a surround setup, you are helping Anthem ARC to give you better results.


Good luck & Cheers,


______ Bob



Note: There was a guy before, here in this thread asking about how much or no toe in, was best for his Paradigm Studio 100s. After posting the pictures of his room's setup, I immediately saw that in his case, he have to positioned his loudspeakers facing straight forward, without any toing.

I did not have the chance to respond to him, cause he did not ask my professional opinion. Anyway, his two main front Studio 100s were positioned in encase enclosures,

(built in decorative framed enclosure) with both side walls, only a few inches of both each speaker's sides.

To prevent nasty reflections, it is best to face them straight forward. That was for his particular speaker's setup. I hope that he read this.


Another thing that I observe in your setup and his, your main front loudspeakers are too close from the rear wall. Speakers need room to breathe. And your Studio 100s needs breathing room behind them. That could be one of the reason that your bass is not optimal yet in your room, according to Anthem ARC measurement's results.

In your case, I will put them very close to your transparent screen, so they will be the maximum distance from the rear wall. And if they are still too close from the rear wall, I will position them in the front of your screen. (And maybe get a new screen with a 1.3 gain rating, like a Stewart StudioTek 130.). By the way, what is the size of your screen, diagonally? Or more precisely, what size of picture are you projecting in your screen?

But don't forget the rule of the 3 different distances of the lower woofer: floor, side wall and rear wall.


But your setup looks already very impressive, Shawn. Very nice job, indeed.

So, if your Studio 100 v5s are roughly a couple feet from the rear wall, when you put them right to your screen, leave them there.

But it doesn't cost you anything to experiment with Anthem ARC, while putting only the two main front side ones in front of the screen. And by having the center one behind the

screen, it is actually a certain benefit for proper natural delay of the center channel.


I hope too, that your fabric is totally acoustically transparent, or very close to, at least.


And, if your surround speakers are too close to the ceiling, they will reflect from it.

Surround speakers are best positioned only a foot or two maximum above your head.

Also, I am not a supporter of dipole surround speakers, they introduced too many problems. Monopole speakers are better, when well positioned. In particular with the newer audio codecs. Also film mixers used monopole speakers. Also SACD sound better with monopole surrounds. Dipole is an old fashion mode that is disappearing fast in the

audiophile world.


Last, you did progress quite a bit from the start, you did balanced room decor, system setup and sound quality. In the end, it is this balance that will give you the final sound that could give you the optimal performance for your particular setup.

So, when it does sound right to you, it's movie time. Like you said, sit down, have a drink,

and put a great blu-ray movie for the final destination, "Tin Pan Alley".


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
I think Roger's question about speaker placement is key. You need to change how those three speakers are coupling to your room.


By the way, it is best to include the red Measured curves in charts like this as well. That will give us a better idea of what really needs correcting, and just how much improvement you need to produce to get things in the range ARC can fully correct. Sometimes ARC's limits at one frequency are due to work it has to do elsewhere for example.

--Bob
Roger and Bob,

My results now have the measured values. As for the speaker placement, here goes.


Front L: Toed in towards the prime listening position. 11" from back wall and 36" from side wall.


Center: 7" from floor on short stand tilted up towards the prime listening position. 10" out from back wall.


Front R: Toed in as with Left speaker, same dist from back wall and 30" from side wall.


John

 

ARC Measurement Files A.doc 70.5k . file

 

ARC Measurement Files B.doc 69.5k . file


----------



## cargen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16099442
> 
> 
> We've had one report here that you can use Fusion, but that the Keyspan adapter doesn't work well under Fusion -- which would, of course, match your problem. He got it working with a Belkin adapter.
> 
> 
> See this post, and perhaps send a PM to VIDEO_BIT_BUCKET:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post15933464
> 
> 
> --Bob



Wanted to report back that after Bob's tip on 3-22-09 above. After exchanging a few private messages with VIDEO_BIT_BUCKET, I ordered and installed the Belkin USB Serial Port Adapter F5U409-CU.


ARC-1 now runs perfectly inside my MacBook Pro 2.6 > VMware Fusion 2 > Windows XP. I especially like the red and blue LED's on the Belkin adapter, which reassuringly turn on and off at various times as ARC communicates with the D2. I've now completed 3 separate rounds of measurement sessions and the Belkin has performed flawlessly.


The Belkin F5U409-CU replaces my Keyspan USB adapter that did not work with ARC-1 inside VMware Fusion but which did/does work inside dual Bootcamp. So I no longer have any reason to have to dual boot my MacBook Pro anymore because I'm able to run all my Windows programs via Vmware Fusion emulated Windows XP.


I've had my D1 since 2004, since upgraded to D2 in 2007. This thread has been an incredible resource that has assisted me countless times. Anthem should engage Bob Pariseau to write up a more detailed section or separate manual for the ARC.


Bob's constant help to all of us regarding all things has been incredible! Thank you Bob!


Chris


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16147843
> 
> 
> Roger and Bob,
> 
> My results now have the measured values. As for the speaker placement, here goes.
> 
> 
> Front L: Toed in towards the prime listening position. 11" from back wall and 36" from side wall.
> 
> 
> Center: 7" from floor on short stand tilted up towards the prime listening position. 10" out from back wall.
> 
> 
> Front R: Toed in as with Left speaker, same dist from back wall and 30" from side wall.
> 
> 
> John



My guess is that you've got a pretty significant room geometry problem that may require some bass treatments . I think the dip at 120Hz for LF/RF and C and the peak at 160Hz for LS/RS LR/RR and even or the Sub are symptoms of the same problem.


What are the 3 main dimensions of your listening room? Dimensions that are equal or that are multiples of one another are problematic.


Unfortunately, room treatment analysis is not something I can really help you with.


As for your speaker placement, one suggestion I have is not to toe in LF/RF to face your ARC mic #1 position. I've had best luck swinging them around only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular towards the center listening position. I think it would be best to give the speakers more spacing from the wall behind them than just 11" too. Are your speakers out in the open or are they in some sort of casing?

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16147794
> 
> 
> Hi Shawn,
> 
> 
> Your room setup looks gorgeous. Congratulations!
> 
> 
> Correct, the lower woofer distance from the floor should be different to the distance from the side wall, and also different distance to the rear wall.
> 
> So, all three distances should be all different from each other.
> 
> And this, calculated from the dust cap of your lower woofer.
> 
> 
> Also, for an additional tip, always oversighted by 99.9% of people.
> 
> "Discenter" the center speaker, Don't put it right in the middle of your two main flanking speakers, just off-center it by only about 6 inces to one foot maximum, 9 inches will be just about right in your room.
> 
> 
> Plus, toe in your front side speakers by about 20 degrees on the inside, so they aim roughly at about 3 to 6 feet behind your listening position.
> 
> This is a recommended position from Paradigm, but not only that, also because it will prevent side wall reflections from your speakers.
> 
> Best is to use a laser light where the beams met at the exact same spot, behind the middle of your head, calculated from the center of the tweeters.
> 
> 
> Do these measurements first, and then redo the Anthem Automatic Room Correction (ARC).
> 
> 
> Make also sure that your subwoofer(s), is (are) set to the 0 degree phase position, and like Bob said, maximum Low Pass Filter position, or Bypass mode, if available.
> 
> The Gain (volume level) on the rear of your subwoofer(s), should be set to about 1/3 to 1/2 maximum of it's rotating knob.
> 
> 
> If you need more help to get the lower frequencies well balanced in your room, please just ask. That's only one of my specialties. I do have a vast experience with loudspeaker and subwoofer placement, for various type of rooms, and their limitations. And when you start by proper positioning of all your speakers in a surround setup, you are helping Anthem ARC to give you better results.
> 
> 
> Good luck & Cheers,
> 
> 
> ______ Bob
> 
> 
> 
> Note: There was a guy before, here in this thread asking about how much or no toe in, was best for his Paradigm Studio 100s. After posting the pictures of his room's setup, I immediately saw that in his case, he have to positioned his loudspeakers facing straight forward, without any toing.
> 
> I did not have the chance to respond to him, cause he did not ask my professional opinion. Anyway, his two main front Studio 100s were positioned in encase enclosures,
> 
> (built in decorative framed enclosure) with both side walls, only a few inches of both each speaker's sides.
> 
> To prevent nasty reflections, it is best to face them straight forward. That was for his particular speaker's setup. I hope that he read this.
> 
> 
> Another thing that I observe in your setup and his, your main front loudspeakers are too close from the rear wall. Speakers need room to breathe. And your Studio 100s needs breathing room behind them. That could be one of the reason that your bass is not optimal yet in your room, according to Anthem ARC measurement's results.
> 
> In your case, I will put them very close to your transparent screen, so they will be the maximum distance from the rear wall. And if they are still too close from the rear wall, I will position them in the front of your screen. (And maybe get a new screen with a 1.3 gain rating, like a Stewart StudioTek 130.). By the way, what is the size of your screen, diagonally? Or more precisely, what size of picture are you projecting in your screen?
> 
> But don't forget the rule of the 3 different distances of the lower woofer: floor, side wall and rear wall.
> 
> 
> But your setup looks already very impressive, Shawn. Very nice job, indeed.
> 
> So, if your Studio 100 v5s are roughly a couple feet from the rear wall, when you put them right to your screen, leave them there.
> 
> But it doesn't cost you anything to experiment with Anthem ARC, while putting only the two main front side ones in front of the screen. And by having the center one behind the
> 
> screen, it is actually a certain benefit for proper natural delay of the center channel.
> 
> 
> I hope too, that your fabric is totally acoustically transparent, or very close to, at least.
> 
> 
> And, if your surround speakers are too close to the ceiling, they will reflect from it.
> 
> Surround speakers are best positioned only a foot or two maximum above your head.
> 
> Also, I am not a supporter of dipole surround speakers, they introduced too many problems. Monopole speakers are better, when well positioned. In particular with the newer audio codecs. Also film mixers used monopole speakers. Also SACD sound better with monopole surrounds. Dipole is an old fashion mode that is disappearing fast in the
> 
> audiophile world.
> 
> 
> Last, you did progress quite a bit from the start, you did balanced room decor, system setup and sound quality. In the end, it is this balance that will give you the final sound that could give you the optimal performance for your particular setup.
> 
> So, when it does sound right to you, it's movie time. Like you said, sit down, have a drink,
> 
> and put a great blu-ray movie for the final destination, "Tin Pan Alley".



Thank you very much for the info. The only piece of advice I won't do is moving the speakers in front of the screen. At some point I have to draw the line between the best sound and the overall experience...and WAF










Anyway, I didn't know about the decentering of the center speaker. That's interesting, I'll give it a try. I also should toe the L and R in more than they are, that should help. I've got a laser level and I'l use that to point the laser behind my seated position for each.


I do have the sub phase off and the gain is about at 35% or so. As for space behind the speakers, the area back there is 30" and the 100's are about 17" deep. Add in the inuslation on the back wall and now there is about 14" of space. I have them pretty far forward to the screen, but I can go even more. It is an SMX proline screen and the panels on the screen wall are GOM FR701.


In my latest charts, it seems ARC has corrected my bass problem pretty well?



















I realize I should fix it before arc does for the best performance, so I will try the decentering, bringing the LCR more to the screen and toeing in the L and R.


I do plan to do acoustic treatments in the room, right now it's just drywall. Would adding the panels in the room (outside the screen area), help with these issues, like the bass problem and that null around 160hz?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cargen* /forum/post/16148203
> 
> 
> Wanted to report back that after Bob's tip on 3-22-09 above. After exchanging a few private messages with VIDEO_BIT_BUCKET, I ordered and installed the Belkin USB Serial Port Adapter F5U409-CU.
> 
> 
> ARC-1 now runs perfectly inside my MacBook Pro 2.6 > VMware Fusion 2 > Windows XP. I especially like the red and blue LED's on the Belkin adapter, which reassuringly turn on and off at various times as ARC communicates with the D2. I've now completed 3 separate rounds of measurement sessions and the Belkin has performed flawlessly.
> 
> 
> The Belkin F5U409-CU replaces my Keyspan USB adapter that did not work with ARC-1 inside VMware Fusion but which did/does work inside dual Bootcamp. So I no longer have any reason to have to dual boot my MacBook Pro anymore because I'm able to run all my Windows programs via Vmware Fusion emulated Windows XP.
> 
> 
> I've had my D1 since 2004, since upgraded to D2 in 2007. This thread has been an incredible resource that has assisted me countless times. Anthem should engage Bob Pariseau to write up a more detailed section or separate manual for the ARC.
> 
> 
> Bob's constant help to all of us regarding all things has been incredible! Thank you Bob!
> 
> 
> Chris



We here at "Bob Pariseau" thank you for your kind words!


And I'm glad the Belkin adapter is working for you. Thanks for the report. It's good to get some confirmation reports on things like this.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16148456
> 
> 
> My guess is that you've got a pretty significant room geometry problem that may require some bass treatments . I think the dip at 120Hz for LF/RF and C and the peak at 160Hz for LS/RS LR/RR and even or the Sub are symptoms of the same problem.
> 
> 
> What are the 3 main dimensions of your listening room? Dimensions that are equal or that are multiples of one another are problematic.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, room treatment analysis is not something I can really help you with.
> 
> 
> As for your speaker placement, one suggestion I have is not to toe in LF/RF to face your ARC mic #1 position. I've had best luck swinging them around only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular towards the center listening position. I think it would be best to give the speakers more spacing from the wall behind them than just 11" too. Are your speakers out in the open or are they in some sort of casing?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Room dimensions are 14' W, 24' L, and 7.5' H


Will try more spacing from back wall and reduce toe-in for measurements. My speakers point to a spot just behing my prim. listening position. Speakers are in the open and not contained in any way. Sub is beside the right speaker and my rack, 3' tall with equipment, is beside my left speaker. Center is not really close to anything but the back wall.

thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16148567
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Room dimensions are 14' W, 24' L, and 7.5' H



Simple! Raise the ceiling 3 feet!







(Oh, and move the fireplace from THAT wall to THAT wall...)


Seriously your width is close to twice the height and your length is close to 3 times the height. So I suspect you've got some challenges here that might respond well to treatments to reduce low frequency reflections. I know barely enough about this stuff to be dangerous, though, so keep encouraging others to chime in here.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/16146724
> 
> 
> Can you describe how they are set up wrt to walls? I suspect SBIR .



Good article. I have a similar dip at 100hz that I've been working to correct.

How much should the difference be between the front wall, side wall and floor distances?

Are we talking 1''-2'', or 1'-2'?

Tom


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16147185
> 
> 
> Monte,
> 
> ARC is not anything like a traditional parametric filter EQ system. There are no notch filters to control and there's no equivalent of controlling the Q of filters.
> 
> 
> ARC provides correction on all speaker output channels. It measures and corrects down to 5Hz, although its charts only show down to 20Hz.
> 
> 
> ARC is fully capable of working with no subs connected to the sub outputs of the Anthem. A number of folks here are using main speakers with satellite subs attached to them -- just another variant of a "full range" main speaker -- and ARC handles that just fine.
> 
> 
> ARC comes with an individually calibrated mic -- a calibration data file comes with the ARC install kit -- and only that ARC mic can be used with ARC.
> 
> 
> ARC is much more sophisticated than the Room Resonance Filter you have found on your D2. It processes mic measurements from all of your speakers at multiple mic locations and comes up with a solution that utilizes the capabilities of the various speakers together.
> 
> 
> For example, since you have no subwoofer configured, ARC will arrange to steer bass from your Center and surround speakers to your main speakers with their satellite subs, and it will adjust crossovers and room correction parameters automatically to make that work right.
> 
> 
> If you try ARC you may find that you get the best results by disabling your current room EQ stuff and letting ARC do all the work. At the price, you can hardly go wrong giving ARC a try.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob, thanks for the detailed response.


If there are no equivalents of controlling filter Q etc then that means it has arbitrary control over the transfer function. This has been my big complaint about conventional digital crossover EQ systems, they are all limited to analog filter functions. There is no reason why a digital system should be limited in this way other than to simplify operation for audio engineers who have grown up on analog filters and know nothing else.


My center channel, currently under construction, technically requires arbitrary control for the 5-way crossover but I can approximate it using a Behringer DCX2496. If I can find a digital crossover that can create any transfer function I want then it would not only resolve that problem but would also upgrade my room control capability. There is no way the D2 would be able to handle the crossover since that would mean it would have to have in this case five center channel outputs to send individual bands to the PVA5 that will drive the center speaker.


So, it sounds like ARC might be worth a try after all. As usual, I'm out of town due to work at the moment but when I get back in a few weeks I may have to see about getting it. What's involved? I have my dealer order a board etc and install it myself or I have to send the D2 to Nick?


thanks,

Monte


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16148696
> 
> 
> Hi Bob, thanks for the detailed response.
> 
> 
> If there are no equivalents of controlling filter Q etc then that means it has arbitrary control over the transfer function. This has been my big complaint about conventional digital crossover EQ systems, they are all limited to analog filter functions. There is no reason why a digital system should be limited in this way other than to simplify operation for audio engineers who have grown up on analog filters and know nothing else.
> 
> 
> My center channel, currently under construction, technically requires arbitrary control for the 5-way crossover but I can approximate it using a Behringer DCX2496. If I can find a digital crossover that can create any transfer function I want then it would not only resolve that problem but would also upgrade my room control capability. There is no way the D2 would be able to handle the crossover since that would mean it would have to have in this case five center channel outputs to send individual bands to the PVA5 that will drive the center speaker.
> 
> 
> So, it sounds like ARC might be worth a try after all. As usual, I'm out of town due to work at the moment but when I get back in a few weeks I may have to see about getting it. What's involved? I have my dealer order a board etc and install it myself or I have to send the D2 to Nick?
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Monte



The D2 requires no hardware modification at all to use ARC. You've already paid for the extra DSP processing power built into the D2 from the beginning in anticipation of ARC.


The ARC kit consists of software that gets installed on your Windows PC, the calibrated mic (with its individualized calibration data file), a simple mic stand that a number of us have replaced with a boom-arm mic stand for ease of use, and the mic cable that attaches to a USB port on your Windows PC. So installation and setup doesn't require the dealer or factory to do anything.


Download the latest copy of the D2 owners manual from the Anthem web site and read Section 3.15 for discussion of ARC. In addition, read the ARC related post links collected in the first post of this thread. I think you'll be quite pleased by what you see.


Obviously ARC can't go in and replace an internal crossover inside a speaker. All it can do is change the nature of the input into the speaker.


Most folks here have found they only really need to tweak one aspect of ARC's automatic solution: By default ARC stops correcting at 5KHz. You can raise that up as high as 20KHz and see the results in the charts. If the new solution looks better, you Upload that into your Anthem and give it a listen.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16119716
> 
> 
> Yes - I am running version 2.04. I also get very short and quiet bursts of static noise on occasion from the left surround at times that seem random to me...at least I have not found a pattern.
> 
> 
> I already got a response from Nick at Anthem technical support:
> 
> 
> "Thanks as always for the feedback.
> 
> 
> This is a known issue for v2 and I understand why it causes some uneasiness. Curing it is a matter of increasing mute time between sweeps. The audio DSP is undergoing some major changes (Dolby Volume) so I don't expect a fix for the burst before then."



I have the same issue!


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16148498
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for the info. The only piece of advice I won't do is moving the speakers in front of the screen. At some point I have to draw the line between the best sound and the overall experience...and WAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I didn't know about the decentering of the center speaker. That's interesting, I'll give it a try. I also should toe the L and R in more than they are, that should help. I've got a laser level and I'l use that to point the laser behind my seated position for each.
> 
> 
> I do have the sub phase off and the gain is about at 35% or so. As for space behind the speakers, the area back there is 30" and the 100's are about 17" deep. Add in the inuslation on the back wall and now there is about 14" of space. I have them pretty far forward to the screen, but I can go even more. It is an SMX proline screen and the panels on the screen wall are GOM FR701.
> 
> 
> In my latest charts, it seems ARC has corrected my bass problem pretty well?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I realize I should fix it before arc does for the best performance, so I will try the decentering, bringing the LCR more to the screen and toeing in the L and R.
> 
> 
> I do plan to do acoustic treatments in the room, right now it's just drywall. Would adding the panels in the room (outside the screen area), help with these issues, like the bass problem and that null around 160hz?



Ok, I made the changes above - I toed in the L and R and moved them as close to the screen as possible. I also added a few more sheets of fabric covered insulation behind the screen. In the targets screen, I also changed the crossover for the surrounds to 80hz instead of 110. Is that bad to do? Are these charts any better than the previous ones above?



















Thanks


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16148782
> 
> 
> The D2 requires no hardware modification at all to use ARC. You've already paid for the extra DSP processing power built into the D2 from the beginning in anticipation of ARC.
> 
> 
> The ARC kit consists of software that gets installed on your Windows PC, the calibrated mic (with its individualized calibration data file), a simple mic stand that a number of us have replaced with a boom-arm mic stand for ease of use, and the mic cable that attaches to a USB port on your Windows PC. So installation and setup doesn't require the dealer or factory to do anything.
> 
> 
> Download the latest copy of the D2 owners manual from the Anthem web site and read Section 3.15 for discussion of ARC. In addition, read the ARC related post links collected in the first post of this thread. I think you'll be quite pleased by what you see.
> 
> 
> Obviously ARC can't go in and replace an internal crossover inside a speaker. All it can do is change the nature of the input into the speaker.
> 
> 
> Most folks here have found they only really need to tweak one aspect of ARC's automatic solution: By default ARC stops correcting at 5KHz. You can raise that up as high as 20KHz and see the results in the charts. If the new solution looks better, you Upload that into your Anthem and give it a listen.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, so it seems like ARC is basically a stand alone measurement system that can then download it's measurement data into the D2 where it is processed and corrections applied.


I will not be able to get away from my digital EQ completely because much of that is an integral part of the active crossover as opposed to room correction. My subwoofers for example are dipoles and thus part of the digital crossovers function is to correct for the front/rear radiation cancellation etc.


The main speakers are cardioid infinite line sources so again some funky looking transfer functions are required as an integral part of the crossover design.


The center channel is a six way design with 5 bands in the center speaker itself and then the woofers handle the 6th and lowest band. This requires a linear transition between bands and then a brick wall at adjacent band "critical frequencies". (frequency where only one pair of symmetrically spaced drivers are playing) This is a rather complex center speaker but it has the advantage of creating a well controlled center lobe of about +/- 37 deg thus eliminating the comb filtering issues of conventional horizontal arrays.


So, in short, by the time I'm done doing all the things I have to do to make all the speakers even work, there shouldn't be all that much left for ARC to do. Still, it just looks like too cool a toy to pass up. I'll have to check with Brad at A&B TV in Austin and have him get me one by the time I get back home off this trip.


Thanks again for all the info on this Bob.


Monte

My theatre project... http://www.mfk-projects.com/home_theatre.htm


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16147794
> 
> 
> Hi Shawn,
> 
> 
> Your room setup looks gorgeous. Congratulations!
> 
> 
> Correct, the lower woofer distance from the floor should be different to the distance from the side wall, and also different distance to the rear wall.
> 
> So, all three distances should be all different from each other.
> 
> And this, calculated from the dust cap of your lower woofer.
> 
> 
> Also, for an additional tip, always oversighted by 99.9% of people.
> 
> "Discenter" the center speaker, Don't put it right in the middle of your two main flanking speakers, just off-center it by only about 6 inces to one foot maximum, 9 inches will be just about right in your room.
> 
> 
> Plus, toe in your front side speakers by about 20 degrees on the inside, so they aim roughly at about 3 to 6 feet behind your listening position.
> 
> This is a recommended position from Paradigm, but not only that, also because it will prevent side wall reflections from your speakers.
> 
> Best is to use a laser light where the beams met at the exact same spot, behind the middle of your head, calculated from the center of the tweeters.
> 
> 
> Do these measurements first, and then redo the Anthem Automatic Room Correction (ARC).
> 
> 
> Make also sure that your subwoofer(s), is (are) set to the 0 degree phase position, and like Bob said, maximum Low Pass Filter position, or Bypass mode, if available.
> 
> The Gain (volume level) on the rear of your subwoofer(s), should be set to about 1/3 to 1/2 maximum of it's rotating knob.
> 
> 
> If you need more help to get the lower frequencies well balanced in your room, please just ask. That's only one of my specialties. I do have a vast experience with loudspeaker and subwoofer placement, for various type of rooms, and their limitations. And when you start by proper positioning of all your speakers in a surround setup, you are helping Anthem ARC to give you better results.
> 
> 
> Good luck & Cheers,
> 
> 
> ______ Bob
> 
> 
> 
> Note: There was a guy before, here in this thread asking about how much or no toe in, was best for his Paradigm Studio 100s. After posting the pictures of his room's setup, I immediately saw that in his case, he have to positioned his loudspeakers facing straight forward, without any toing.
> 
> I did not have the chance to respond to him, cause he did not ask my professional opinion. Anyway, his two main front Studio 100s were positioned in encase enclosures,
> 
> (built in decorative framed enclosure) with both side walls, only a few inches of both each speaker's sides.
> 
> To prevent nasty reflections, it is best to face them straight forward. That was for his particular speaker's setup. I hope that he read this.
> 
> 
> Another thing that I observe in your setup and his, your main front loudspeakers are too close from the rear wall. Speakers need room to breathe. And your Studio 100s needs breathing room behind them. That could be one of the reason that your bass is not optimal yet in your room, according to Anthem ARC measurement's results.
> 
> In your case, I will put them very close to your transparent screen, so they will be the maximum distance from the rear wall. And if they are still too close from the rear wall, I will position them in the front of your screen. (And maybe get a new screen with a 1.3 gain rating, like a Stewart StudioTek 130.). By the way, what is the size of your screen, diagonally? Or more precisely, what size of picture are you projecting in your screen?
> 
> But don't forget the rule of the 3 different distances of the lower woofer: floor, side wall and rear wall.
> 
> 
> But your setup looks already very impressive, Shawn. Very nice job, indeed.
> 
> So, if your Studio 100 v5s are roughly a couple feet from the rear wall, when you put them right to your screen, leave them there.
> 
> But it doesn't cost you anything to experiment with Anthem ARC, while putting only the two main front side ones in front of the screen. And by having the center one behind the
> 
> screen, it is actually a certain benefit for proper natural delay of the center channel.
> 
> 
> I hope too, that your fabric is totally acoustically transparent, or very close to, at least.
> 
> 
> And, if your surround speakers are too close to the ceiling, they will reflect from it.
> 
> Surround speakers are best positioned only a foot or two maximum above your head.
> 
> Also, I am not a supporter of dipole surround speakers, they introduced too many problems. Monopole speakers are better, when well positioned. In particular with the newer audio codecs. Also film mixers used monopole speakers. Also SACD sound better with monopole surrounds. Dipole is an old fashion mode that is disappearing fast in the
> 
> audiophile world.
> 
> 
> Last, you did progress quite a bit from the start, you did balanced room decor, system setup and sound quality. In the end, it is this balance that will give you the final sound that could give you the optimal performance for your particular setup.
> 
> So, when it does sound right to you, it's movie time. Like you said, sit down, have a drink,
> 
> and put a great blu-ray movie for the final destination, "Tin Pan Alley".



Hi Bob. Thanks for the input. What are the benefits for moveing your center channel "off center". Thanks. And, how does one calculate how far off center it should be placed. I have always just placed it dead center because I always thought that was the way to do it.


Thanks


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16149287
> 
> 
> Ok, I made the changes above - I toed in the L and R and moved them as close to the screen as possible. I also added a few more sheets of fabric covered insulation behind the screen. In the targets screen, I also changed the crossover for the surrounds to 80hz instead of 110. Is that bad to do? Are these charts any better than the previous ones above?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Ok, one last set of measurements for the day. This time I added more insulation behind the screen and moved the center channel more off center. Are these charts better or worse? I see the subwoofer seems better?


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16148567
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Room dimensions are 14' W, 24' L, and 7.5' H
> 
> 
> Will try more spacing from back wall and reduce toe-in for measurements. My speakers point to a spot just behing my prim. listening position. Speakers are in the open and not contained in any way. Sub is beside the right speaker and my rack, 3' tall with equipment, is beside my left speaker. Center is not really close to anything but the back wall.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



I would suggest talking to the wizards at Realtraps for help with bass traps and room treatments. They are VERY helpful and knowledgable.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/16149966
> 
> 
> I would suggest talking to the wizards at Realtraps for help with bass traps and room treatments. They are VERY helpful and knowledgable.



I have moved my fronts and center further from the back wall and reduced the toe-in which wasn't that much in the first place. Took new measurements and there was some small changes in the calculations which were for the good. From reading that book from Floyd Toole, it seems that for me, bass traps behind my two fronts and one in the middle of the back wall might make the biggest diff without spending too much.

John


----------



## jayray

My Anthem dealer says they have some bass traps I can try and if they work I'll get some. Tomorrow I'll give it a try.

John


----------



## bluemark81

For my Satellite input which is 60 Hz, will the Anthem do a conversion to 24 Hz if I wanted my display set for 72 Hz. (My display is a Pioneer 151 which can convert a 24 Hz signal to 72 Hz for smoother playback).


In other words, can I set the output configuration to 1080p 24 Hz for a 60 Hz incoming signal?


Think there is any benefit in doing this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16151141
> 
> 
> For my Satellite input which is 60 Hz, will the Anthem do a conversion to 24 Hz if I wanted my display set for 72 Hz. (My display is a Pioneer 151 which can convert a 24 Hz signal to 72 Hz for smoother playback).
> 
> 
> In other words, can I set the output configuration to 1080p 24 Hz for a 60 Hz incoming signal?
> 
> 
> Think there is any benefit in doing this?



That won't work properly with the D2 or AVM 50. For the D2v and AVM 50v Anthem is working on this feature but it isn't available yet. At the moment if you try 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion, even for film-based content, you will get video stutter.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16151201
> 
> 
> That won't work properly with the D2 or AVM 50. For the D2v and AVM 50v Anthem is working on this feature but it isn't available yet. At the moment if you try 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion, even for film-based content, you will get video stutter.
> 
> --Bob



ok....out of curiousity I just tried setting my video output config for my satellite to 1080p/24. Seems to be working well with no stutter so far anyway.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16151239
> 
> 
> ok....out of curiousity I just tried setting my video output config for my satellite to 1080p/24. Seems to be working well with no stutter so far anyway.



Just wait. You'll see it.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16151252
> 
> 
> Just wait. You'll see it.
> 
> --Bob



I changed it back anyway just because I believe you










I'm surprized the Anthem is not capable of this.


----------



## bluemark81

I have the data of my video out configs set to 4:4:4 for satellite and auto for blu-ray. Is that what they should be?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16151329
> 
> 
> I have the data of my video out configs set to 4:4:4 for satellite and auto for blu-ray. Is that what they should be?



This is explained in the Technology and Terminology post links in the first post of this thread. For an HDMI to HDMI connection, the Auto setting will usually result in YCbCr 4:4:4.

--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16148498
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for the info. The only piece of advice I won't do is moving the speakers in front of the screen. At some point I have to draw the line between the best sound and the overall experience...and WAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I didn't know about the decentering of the center speaker. That's interesting, I'll give it a try. I also should toe the L and R in more than they are, that should help. I've got a laser level and I'l use that to point the laser behind my seated position for each.
> 
> 
> I do have the sub phase off and the gain is about at 35% or so. As for space behind the speakers, the area back there is 30" and the 100's are about 17" deep. Add in the inuslation on the back wall and now there is about 14" of space. I have them pretty far forward to the screen, but I can go even more. It is an SMX proline screen and the panels on the screen wall are GOM FR701.
> 
> 
> In my latest charts, it seems ARC has corrected my bass problem pretty well?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I realize I should fix it before arc does for the best performance, so I will try the decentering, bringing the LCR more to the screen and toeing in the L and R.
> 
> 
> I do plan to do acoustic treatments in the room, right now it's just drywall. Would adding the panels in the room (outside the screen area), help with these issues, like the bass problem and that null around 160hz?



Hi Shawn,


Excusez-moi everyone, I just don't know yet how to bring the only quote that I need, so, sorry for the wasted space.

Whouah! I am again impress not only by all your good listening habilities & to put them in practice, but also by Anthem ARC results! Impessive, indeed.

Things are very short with you Shawn, because everything is set up just

"almost perfect"! To not put your two main front speakers in front of the screen is totally understandable, and I will do probably the same too, if only to experiment.







Not really WAF "Dumping Factor"







with me. So, you can understand where I'm coming from.


The only answer back from your post that I want to respond, is your last question.

The answer is a big YES, because drywall is the devil of Sound. You probably already know that different thickness of high density foam covered of fabric, becoming an acoustic panel, have absorbing qualities at different frequencies.

Bass requires thicker fabrics, closer to the subwoofer area, and higher frequencies requires only few centimeters to get absorbed.


Now, the 160hz region, which is a null, you want to emphasise that area by

some lens reflectors. Here's a trick, that you might already know.

Sit in your normal seat with a flaslight (you are going to need your wife help on this one Shawn), ask your wife to hold a mirror right against one of the side wall, flush to it. She will have to be on the side closer to you than the side of your main speaker, so that you can see through the mirror, the center of the midrange (driver next to the tweeter, of course), by shining the light of the flaslight through the mirror. When your wife find the spot where you can

see the center of the midrange driver with your flashlight pointing at the mirror flush with one of the side wall, that's where she'll stop, and that's the area on that side wall where you want to concentrate for wall treatments.

And from an area of about couple feet or so below the mirror and also a couple feet above the mirror. Same for each side of the mirror, a couple feet or more towards the front left or right speaker, and now perhaps three feet

or more towards the back of the room (if you have a second row of seats behind the main seat, go for four feet or so).

You do the same thing with the other side wall, and that's it.


Ask people in the know (yep, just like me, or BOB thee man and also ROGER the Dolby man) what they think is best to regain that 160hz area some juice. Right now, I do need some time to make some accurate calculation and the proper material required that could help balance the bass also. Shawn, this is harder done than say, believe me.

Your latest graphs are going to be a major help. Do rerun again The Anthem ARC with the latest refinemennt of your main speaker's positions and your subwoofer. By the way, where is your subwoofer(s). If you only have one, I do recommend a second one. LOL.







Takes two to tango...


I'll be back, meanwhile, take your time, enjoy life, love your wife, just like you usually do, but love her more after she's done holding the mirror (by the way, don't use a too small mirror, don't need to be big either, just the right size, so you can see something through it, on the other side of the fifth dimension).









And you never know, another pro might read this post, and bring something interesting to it.


Till then, here's to you kid...










Only my bests,


________

Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16153426
> 
> 
> Hi Shawn,
> 
> 
> Excusez-moi everyone, I just don't know yet how to bring the only quote that I need, so, sorry for the wasted space.



This I CAN help with.


Use the "Quote" button at the lower right of any post you want to reply to. This will present you with a box for typing in your reply that has been pre-loaded with the text of the post you are replying to -- surrounded by "QUOTE" and "/QUOTE" tags in square brackets.


Just edit the text from the original post to delete the parts you don't really need to quote in your reply. For example in replying to your post, I deleted all but your first comment above. Be sure to leave the "QUOTE" and "/QUOTE" tags in place, in their square brackets, either side of what you really want to quote. Those tags are what cause the quoted text to display specially in your new post.


At the bottom of the text type in box you will find a Submit Reply and a Preview Post button. You can use the Preview Post button to see what your post will look like (including your edits to the post you are quoting) BEFORE you actually submit it. And then you just make changes in the text type-in box if there's anything that still needs adjustment. When you are happy with how it looks, click on Submit Reply.


Also note that there is an Edit button on the lower right of any post you yourself have submitted. You can use that to correct any problems in your post you don't spot until after you have actually posted it.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16153426
> 
> 
> Hi Shawn,
> 
> 
> Excusez-moi everyone, I just don't know yet how to bring the only quote that I need, so, sorry for the wasted space.
> 
> Whouah! I am again impress not only by all your good listening habilities & to put them in practice, but also by Anthem ARC results! Impessive, indeed.
> 
> Things are very short with you Shawn, because everything is set up just
> 
> "almost perfect"! To not put your two main front speakers in front of the screen is totally understandable, and I will do probably the same too, if only to experiment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not really WAF "Dumping Factor"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with me. So, you can understand where I'm coming from.
> 
> 
> The only answer back from your post that I want to respond, is your last question.
> 
> The answer is a big YES, because drywall is the devil of Sound. You probably already know that different thickness of high density foam covered of fabric, becoming an acoustic panel, have absorbing qualities at different frequencies.
> 
> Bass requires thicker fabrics, closer to the subwoofer area, and higher frequencies requires only few centimeters to get absorbed.
> 
> 
> Now, the 160hz region, which is a null, you want to emphasise that area by
> 
> some lens reflectors. Here's a trick, that you might already know.
> 
> Sit in your normal seat with a flaslight (you are going to need your wife help on this one Shawn), ask your wife to hold a mirror right against one of the side wall, flush to it. She will have to be on the side closer to you than the side of your main speaker, so that you can see through the mirror, the center of the midrange (driver next to the tweeter, of course), by shining the light of the flaslight through the mirror. When your wife find the spot where you can
> 
> see the center of the midrange driver with your flashlight pointing at the mirror flush with one of the side wall, that's where she'll stop, and that's the area on that side wall where you want to concentrate for wall treatments.
> 
> And from an area of about couple feet or so below the mirror and also a couple feet above the mirror. Same for each side of the mirror, a couple feet or more towards the front left or right speaker, and now perhaps three feet
> 
> or more towards the back of the room (if you have a second row of seats behind the main seat, go for four feet or so).
> 
> You do the same thing with the other side wall, and that's it.
> 
> 
> Ask people in the know (yep, just like me, or BOB thee man and also ROGER the Dolby man) what they think is best to regain that 160hz area some juice. Right now, I do need some time to make some accurate calculation and the proper material required that could help balance the bass also. Shawn, this is harder done than say, believe me.
> 
> Your latest graphs are going to be a major help. Do rerun again The Anthem ARC with the latest refinemennt of your main speaker's positions and your subwoofer. By the way, where is your subwoofer(s). If you only have one, I do recommend a second one. LOL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Takes two to tango...
> 
> 
> I'll be back, meanwhile, take your time, enjoy life, love your wife, just like you usually do, but love her more after she's done holding the mirror (by the way, don't use a too small mirror, don't need to be big either, just the right size, so you can see something through it, on the other side of the fifth dimension).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you never know, another pro might read this post, and bring something interesting to it.
> 
> 
> Till then, here's to you kid...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only my bests,
> 
> 
> ________
> 
> Bob



Thanks Bob! There are quite a few Bobs here










My subwoofer (svs PC13) is behind the screen as well. Based upon your recommendations of all the changes and adding more insulation, these are my final graphs of the day yesterday. I also took the advice of AbMagFab and changed the frequency of the LCR to 25hz instead of 60hz that ARC auto set it for.



















How do these look? I am anxious to see how it turns out after I do the acoustic treatments in the room. I'll use the mirror method you mentioned to concentrate on the first reflection points first!


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16146276
> 
> 
> Was wondering how to get those 5 db. dips out in the 100-200hz range of my front and center speakers. I have Studio 100s v.4 and CC690 center.
> 
> thanks
> 
> John



Just tried some bass traps to improve a dip in my room gain at around the 100hz. area. Did new measurements and nothing changed. Not even a meagre improvement in the new measurements. So much for that. The only thing I can think of is putting some absorption behind my three front speakers. Perhaps another day, so much for experimenting









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16156894
> 
> 
> Just tried some bass traps to improve a dip in my room gain at around the 100hz. area. Did new measurements and nothing changed. Not even a meagre improvement in the new measurements. So much for that. The only thing I can think of is putting some absorption behind my three front speakers. Perhaps another day, so much for experimenting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Where did you put the traps? On the side walls? In the front corners? I'm surprised you got no significant difference -- or did you mean that there was only no improvement as regards the 100Hz dip?

--Bob


----------



## esander3

All this talk about room acoustics has me thinking...


My room is about 15 ft (wide) x 30 ft (long), with 7 ft ceilings... additionally; I sit at about 14 ft from the front wall... Sounds like I have a room in nearly perfect multiples and I am likely sitting in the middle of the room (width, length, and height), well, almost, as my rig is not centered along the width by about 2 ft.


Can someone look at the attached file and tell me if I should be doing something to fix room acoustic problems?


Attachment 138312 

Attachment 138313 


Thanks,


Ed

 

Cinema Arc.doc 394k . file

 

Targets.doc 265.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/16156918
> 
> 
> All this talk about room acoustics has me thinking...
> 
> 
> My room is about 15 ft (wide) x 30 ft (long), with 7 ft ceilings... additionally; I sit at about 14 ft from the front wall... Sounds like I have a room in nearly perfect multiples and I am likely sitting in the middle of the room (width, length, and height), well, almost, as my rig is not centered along the width by about 2 ft.
> 
> 
> Can someone look at the attached file and tell me if I should be doing something to fix room acoustic problems?
> 
> 
> Attachment 138312
> 
> Attachment 138313
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Ed



I wouldn't do anything with what you have now except just enjoy it.


ARC has everything well in hand. Your residual errors are tiny and your Target curves all look quite reasonable. It would be good to look at your Music configuration charts as well since ARC likely came up with a different solution for that one.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16156911
> 
> 
> Where did you put the traps? On the side walls? In the front corners? I'm surprised you got no significant difference -- or did you mean that there was only no improvement as regards the 100Hz dip?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

the traps were in the two front corners. No change in the charts at all. Did not upload these measurements. Went with my old ones where I moved the speakers out further from the wall.

John


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16156894
> 
> 
> Just tried some bass traps to improve a dip in my room gain at around the 100hz. area. Did new measurements and nothing changed. Not even a meagre improvement in the new measurements. So much for that. The only thing I can think of is putting some absorption behind my three front speakers. Perhaps another day, so much for experimenting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Same here... I'm at the point where I think I'm going to have to take my screen down and put 4" on the entire wall to get any kind of difference.


I still have a big 200Hz dip that I'd like to fix acoustically, rather than with RoomEQ (although ARC has it tamed to be non-existant on the calculated curved, but natural is always better).


Any advice on what can be done when normal 4" corner traps behind speakers make zippo difference? And I mean zippo - the ARC charts before and after are nearly identical.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16157447
> 
> 
> Same here... I'm at the point where I think I'm going to have to take my screen down and put 4" on the entire wall to get any kind of difference.
> 
> 
> I still have a big 200Hz dip that I'd like to fix acoustically, rather than with RoomEQ (although ARC has it tamed to be non-existant on the calculated curved, but natural is always better).
> 
> 
> Any advice on what can be done when normal 4" corner traps behind speakers make zippo difference? And I mean zippo - the ARC charts before and after are nearly identical.



From what I have read in the book by Floyd Toole, contributor to the ARC we all know an love, suggests absorption behind the front speakers and some on the back wall preferably in the middle. I might try this but need to get something temporary to experiment with just in case it makes no diff.

John


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16157595
> 
> 
> From what I have read in the book by Floyd Toole, contributor to the ARC we all know an love, suggests absorption behind the front speakers and some on the back wall preferably in the middle. I might try this but need to get something temporary to experiment with just in case it makes no diff.
> 
> John



I've already got four (4) 2'x4'x4" panels on my back wall, including 4" bass traps in both corners. I think that's covered.


This is crazy.


Sean (above) apparently had to put like 10" of material behind his speakers, and he just barely removed the null is his room. That seems excessive, but he wasn't eliminating it any other way.


If I knew for sure that 4" of material along my entire screen wall would help, I'd do it immediately, but I'm not seeing any change with 4" directly behind each speaker, so I don't imagine the wall will make any difference.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16157672
> 
> 
> I've already got four (4) 2'x4'x4" panels on my back wall, including 4" bass traps in both corners. I think that's covered.
> 
> 
> This is crazy.
> 
> 
> Sean (above) apparently had to put like 10" of material behind his speakers, and he just barely removed the null is his room. That seems excessive, but he wasn't eliminating it any other way.
> 
> 
> If I knew for sure that 4" of material along my entire screen wall would help, I'd do it immediately, but I'm not seeing any change with 4" directly behind each speaker, so I don't imagine the wall will make any difference.



I might just quit and accept what still sounds amazing. However if this was the case I wouldn't own a D2V









John


----------



## jclem

Jayray and AbMag, I'd suggest you talk to the people at Realtraps rather than just throwing more inches of insulation at the problem. Their website has LOTS of good info, and I found Ethan & company Very helpful. I don't know acoustics, but they do and they are very willing to share their knowledge--whether you buy from them or not. Just my 1/2 cent worth.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If you add enough inches of padding you will change the dimensions of your room. Problem gone!


Presuming, of course, you can still fit into the room yourself.










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've been doing some audio testing with lowered volumes recently and I continue to be amazed at just how good this ARC stuff sounds no matter how you use it. Bass clarity, and even dynamics, at low volume are incredibly wonderful. That's not easy!


The highs remain crystal clear, too. Not as hard to achieve of course but just as pleasing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" ARC V2.1.1 Now Up on Password Protected Download Page!*


A V2.1.1 "test" version of ARC has appeared this afternoon on Anthem's password protected download page.


The change notes since the ARC V2.1 "official" version read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.1.1 beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for Vista where ARC fails to find a valid microphone when PBK and ARC are being used on the same computer.



Evidently there's no rush to go to this version unless you are actually suffering this mic problem.


The AVM 50v and D2v Manuals in this download have also been updated to the March 24 versions. Be warned that these two PDF files crash the Preview PDF file viewer on the Mac. You can view the files using Adobe Reader instead. Apparently Adobe made some change to their "compatible" file formats.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16158320
> 
> *New "Test" ARC V2.1.1 Now Up on Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> A V2.1.1 "test" version of ARC has appeared this afternoon on Anthem's password protected download page.
> 
> 
> The change notes since the ARC V2.1 "official" version read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Evidently there's no rush to go to this version unless you are actually suffering this mic problem.
> 
> 
> The AVM 50v and D2v Manuals in this download have also been updated to the March 24 versions. Be warned that these two PDF files crash the Preview PDF file viewer on the Mac. You can view the files using Adobe Reader instead. Apparently Adobe made some change to their "compatible" file formats.
> 
> --Bob



I don't need to download this as I use XP, but for future reference, where is this password protected download page and how does one get the logins?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16158396
> 
> 
> I don't need to download this as I use XP, but for future reference, where is this password protected download page and how does one get the logins?



The password protected download page is maintained by Anthem tech support. Sometimes the software that gets put up there is intended for just one customer; sometimes only for customers with specific hardware configurations.


But they also use it to put up pre-release versions of the software for wider testing.


It's no big secret, but Anthem tech support has asked that the location and password not be posted. They are trying to keep some sort of track of who is using this stuff -- at the very least to make sure you are aware that "test" software is not finished and may come with some unpleasant surprises.


If you have a problem that "test" software might fix, or just a pressing desire to get in on the excitement, simply send an email to Anthem tech support and let them know what's up, your interest in trying the test sofware, and that you are aware that unfinished software may be more than usually exciting at times.










I wouldn't be at all surprised if this V2.1.1 version was intended for just one customer, and they are not even sure it fixes the problem yet. If it vanishes in a few days, we'll know it probably didn't work. If it sticks around, then it DID work.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16157447
> 
> 
> I still have a big 200Hz dip that I'd like to fix acoustically, rather than with RoomEQ (although ARC has it tamed to be non-existant on the calculated curved, but natural is always better).
> 
> 
> Any advice on what can be done when normal 4" corner traps behind speakers make zippo difference? And I mean zippo - the ARC charts before and after are nearly identical.



I have not verified this myself (the day of reckoning comes in July), but Toole is not enthusiastic about fuzzy materials for taming room modes. For that he says you need a membrane type bass trap, like RPG Modex corner. Anybody around here have experience with these?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/16159486
> 
> 
> I have not verified this myself (the day of reckoning comes in July), but Toole is not enthusiastic about fuzzy materials for taming room modes. For that he says you need a membrane type bass trap, like RPG Modex corner. Anybody around here have experience with these?



I'd give those a try, depending on cost. Any idea how much they are, or how to purchase?


----------



## jpandreini

I've been lurking forever but it's finally time to appeal to a higher power. I've got a URC remote control and I'm using the Appendix A IR macros to change inputs on the Anthem D2. This works great except if I run a macro that tries to select an input that is already selected. So if the Anthem is on TV 1 and I send THX, 8, 9 the 9 is ignored and nothing happens until the sequence times out. The URC remote doesn't maintain state like I suspect the Logitech does. Has anyone got a workaround for this little annoyance beyond tracking the input state in my macros?


All thanks to Bob Pariseau, Inc., et al., for making the lurking so informative and enjoyable.


-John-Paul


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpandreini* /forum/post/16160829
> 
> 
> I've been lurking forever but it's finally time to appeal to a higher power. I've got a URC remote control and I'm using the Appendix A IR macros to change inputs on the Anthem D2. This works great except if I run a macro that tries to select an input that is already selected. So if the Anthem is on TV 1 and I send THX, 8, 9 the 9 is ignored and nothing happens until the sequence times out. The URC remote doesn't maintain state like I suspect the Logitech does. Has anyone got a workaround for this little annoyance beyond tracking the input state in my macros?
> 
> 
> All thanks to Bob Pariseau, Inc., et al., for making the lurking so informative and enjoyable.
> 
> 
> -John-Paul



What happens when you enter the same 3-key sequence repeatedly using the original D2 remote?


I just tried it with my D2v and there is no problem. It accepts each character and goes to TV1 every time.


--------------------------------------------------


I had a problem with my Logitech Harmony 880 remote when I first got them to enter these 3-key selectors for me. The Harmony implements a pause after a source input selection to allow the affected device to get its act together after a new source is selected.


The problem was that the original way Logitech Harmony programmed this for me caused an input selector delay to happen after each key was sent: THX - pause - 8 - pause - 9 - pause.


And that meant the 3-key sequence timed out before the Harmony 880 got around to sending the 9!


I suppose you could have a similar problem in your URC coding, although I don't know why it would only surface if you try to re-enter the same source you are already on at the moment.


Perhaps there are some other folks here using the URC remote who could chime in with advice.


ETA: Oh! And Welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New D2v V2.04 Bug: Screwed up audio using 5.1 or 7.1 HDMI LPCM input when only one channel at a time is active!*


There is apparently a bug in the D2v V2.04 firmware that can cause 5.1 or 7.1 HDMI LPCM input to produce screwed up audio if only one channel happens to be active.


An example is the DD 5.1 and DTS 5.1 Channel ID tests found on Ovation Multimedia's "Sound & Vision Home Theater Tune-Up" calibration SD-DVD.


When played on the PS3 the DD5.1 test produces an audible glitch each time the LF speaker is active. The DTS 5.1 test is even weirder. It produces output only for the LF and RF speakers!


When played on the Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player, both of these tests only produce audio on the LF and RF speakers.


The DD 5.1 and DTS 5.1 channel ID tests on Avia Pro SD-DVD produce audio on all channels from either the PS3 or the Oppo, but all cases produce the audible glitch in the LF speaker.


All of these tests play just fine using HDMI Bitstream audio from either player to the D2v.


I believe this also explains a couple cases I have of garbled center channel audio when the HDMI LPCM input to the D2v only happens to have content in the center channel at the moment.


Anthem has been alerted.

--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16153968
> 
> 
> This I CAN help with.
> 
> 
> Use the "Quote" button at the lower right of any post you want to reply to. This will present you with a box for typing in your reply that has been pre-loaded with the text of the post you are replying to -- surrounded by "QUOTE" and "/QUOTE" tags in square brackets.
> 
> 
> Just edit the text from the original post to delete the parts you don't really need to quote in your reply. For example in replying to your post, I deleted all but your first comment above. Be sure to leave the "QUOTE" and "/QUOTE" tags in place, in their square brackets, either side of what you really want to quote. Those tags are what cause the quoted text to display specially in your new post.
> 
> 
> At the bottom of the text type in box you will find a Submit Reply and a Preview Post button. You can use the Preview Post button to see what your post will look like (including your edits to the post you are quoting) BEFORE you actually submit it. And then you just make changes in the text type-in box if there's anything that still needs adjustment. When you are happy with how it looks, click on Submit Reply.
> 
> 
> Also note that there is an Edit button on the lower right of any post you yourself have submitted. You can use that to correct any problems in your post you don't spot until after you have actually posted it.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks a lot Bob. I really appreciate the time you took to explain very clearly to me. It is so simple, that I just feel like an overcooked cookie.










By the way, Bob, if you have some suggestions for Shawn about the 160hz area that he is not totally satisfied with, that will be great. I do need some help on that one. The bass thing, I can fly along fine with that, but any suggestion will always be appreciated.


Thanks again.


________

Bob


Note: I know also that Mr. Roger Dressler is also a man of vast experience.

I already saw the design of his future home theater, it is fabulous. So I know that he can contributes also. You guys amaze me with your knowledge and generous help. I do have great respect for both of you.


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16157595
> 
> 
> From what I have read in the book by Floyd Toole, contributor to the ARC we all know an love, suggests absorption behind the front speakers and some on the back wall preferably in the middle. I might try this but need to get something temporary to experiment with just in case it makes no diff.
> 
> John



You hit the right magic trick: in the middle of the back wall.


Another place often ignored for practical decor reasons, is the front part of the ceiling.


And rather than right behind the front main speakers, try instead more towards the center wall. Here's a rough graph with the solid line representing the front wall and the * star sign being the two front speakers. The smilie is the important center speaker. The [ bracket sign ] are the two side walls.

And the ....... dots sign is nothing. The dampening pannels are the === parallel bars sign.

The bass traps are the two O.





......................______________________________________ ......................

.....................[O........======...................======........O].....................

.....................[........................=======........................].....................

.....................[...........................







..............................].....................

.....................[........*.........................................*........].....................

.....................[............................................................].....................



Note: The ===, behind the center channel is a dampening pannel suspended

from the ceiling. And all 3 pannels have to be only a couple feet from the floor and 2 to 3 feet from the ceiling, depending of the height of the ceiling at the front of the room.


Sorry for the rough graph, but hopefully you get the idea.


Regards,


________

Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16160276
> 
> 
> I'd give those a try, depending on cost. Any idea how much they are, or how to purchase?


 Here's one possible source. Not cheap, but maybe they actually work...


----------



## Lordoftherings

Hi Shawn,


I forget to ask you something.

Your 3 Paradigm Studio 100 v5s, are they sitting on wood base or carpeted floor.

Are you using any kind of feet for them.


That's all for now.


Enjoy your blu-rays, like I enjoy mine.

Tonight is "Quantum of Solace".


________

Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16149398
> 
> 
> Hi Bob. Thanks for the input. What are the benefits for moveing your center channel "off center". Thanks. And, how does one calculate how far off center it should be placed. I have always just placed it dead center because I always thought that was the way to do it.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Hi,


Excellent question. It have to do with standing wave interfering with the center of your room. The dialogue is slightly affected. And by decentering the center channel, you are offsetting that slight muffle dialog. You don't have to do it much, just 1/2 foot will usually do. And if your sitting further from the center channel, like about 12 feet or so, go for roughly 10 inches to one foot.


An even better solution, but tougher to execute in theater rooms, where the seats are literally nailed to the floor, is to put the central seat slightly off center. But in rooms where you can easily move the seats or couch around, it is recommended that the central listening spot is off center by about a foot. It is very hard to verify by listening to the differences as you might well know, but it is a proven method by measurements.

So, if your central seat (right in the middle of your two adjacent side walls) is off center by about 9 inches to one foot, you don't have to decenter your center channel anymore. This is the prefer solution.


Hope that answer your question.


By the way, another good tip for everyone here: If you can put the midrange drivers of your main front loudspeakers (calculated about from an inch behind their dust caps) closer to your ears than the tweeter or midrange of the center speaker, and without adding or substracting any delay to your three main front speakers from your processor, this will be also better, for the natural delay of the center channel.


You can also do this by moving the center channel further, so that it is about a foot or two away from the distance of your two front flanking speakers. But this is not always possible in many situations where the center speaker is installed in a home theater centre, in a rack below the screen TV or above the TV, because you don't want the baffle of the center speaker being further than the edge of your cabinet, home entertainment centre, TV stand or

TV rack.


If both methods somehow cannot be achieved, the last but not the best solution, is to add a delay of a foot or two (1 to 2ms) to your center channel from your processor.


And the reason for all this, is a simple logic of nature, a natural delay from the center channel.


Same thing for sitting a bit off center, because the dead center of the two side walls is a sort of a null zone, you want to taste the dialog and some of the bass too with a fair balance.


Hope that will further your awareness.


Regards,


________

Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings

How do these look? I am anxious to see how it turns out after I do the acoustic treatments in the room. I'll use the mirror method you mentioned to concentrate on the first reflection points first!


Thanks







[/quote]


Hi Shawn, I'm starting to have a headache by looking at all these graphs.










It is quite hard from my computer, because I have to go back and forth to check for the differences. It is easier for you, because you can compare them side to side.

Also I don't have a photocopier.










But, by running back & forth, it seems to me that your last set looks quite excellent. The low frequencies in particular have definitively improved. It's cause for BRAVO and a cookie too








. I can really tell that you are a perfectionist, just like me.


Read some other recommendations that I gave to other members too, they are concerning your situation too.

The more I read this thread, the more I am impress with Anthem Automatic Room Correction (ARC). And also by the excellent and generous advices by the Man in charge, BOB.


Showing pictures of your home theater setup and graphs of the measurements of Anthem ARC, is a very much valuable tool to do the final tweaks, which is proper speaker positioning of all the speakers, incuding and most important one, the subwoofer(s) (toeing of all speakers, height of the surround speakers, all distances, etc.) and room treatments from various

materials, incuding absorbing (dampening) panels, bass traps, lens reflectors, dispersion panels, wall coverings, walls and ceiling angles, floor material, inside walls insulation, floor density, ceiling brake up modes, etc., etc., etc.


Keep at it till you find Peace with yourself and your wife, then enjoy Heaven on Earth.

















Cheers,


________

Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16158198
> 
> 
> If you add enough inches of padding you will change the dimensions of your room. Problem gone!
> 
> 
> Presuming, of course, you can still fit into the room yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



LOL. Another good one.










It's not the thickness of our room treatments (brain treatments anyone) that counts, it's the right positioning.

Like anything in life, proper ARC-1 microphone positioning, seat's positioning, speaker's positioning, bass traps positioning, absorbing panel's positioning, etc.

Also if we fix the things first inside our walls (brains), we will not have to do so much on the outside.










Bob, this is the thread that I enjoy the most, and you are a big part of that.


Thank you,


________

Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16160276
> 
> 
> I'd give those a try, depending on cost. Any idea how much they are, or how to purchase?



Don't have to buy them, just build them yourself. Not only you save a big chunk of money, but you are having fun building them and enjoying the fruits of your labour.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16161258
> 
> 
> Don't have to buy them, just build them yourself. Not only you save a big chunk of money, but you are having fun building them and enjoying the fruits of your labour.



Bob,

thanks for the Trap tips. What material would you use to create these traps?

John


----------



## jpandreini




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16160909
> 
> 
> What happens when you enter the same 3-key sequence repeatedly using the original D2 remote?
> 
> 
> I just tried it with my D2v and there is no problem. It accepts each character and goes to TV1 every time.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for trying. I tested manual entry using the original remote before I posted. Is there anyone with a D2 willing to try? I'd like to know if it's just me. If not, maybe this can be changed in the next firmware for the D2.

-John-Paul


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16161987
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> thanks for the Trap tips. What material would you use to create these traps?
> 
> John



You are talking about making them I hope.


Here's a good tip. Find out which material is used on the inside fabric, from the people in the know, and voila.


My guess, is that it is extra high density foam. Or foam in a can. Do you know what I mean? Or also some dense synthetic stone. When I was in high school, I was doing sculpture, and I used a material called "Syporex".

I don't know the name in English, I'm French.

Any of these will do. There are more materials that you can also use.

Jut think of what absorb the best. You'll see, you'll be surprise with what you can come with. Even a transparent cylinder full of water will do. Put some coloring too, and some light too, even some fish too.







Not only it will do the trick, but it will look super cool.










Cheers,


______ Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I believe AbMagFab and jayray are referring to the membrane type bass traps that Roger originally mentioned. I'd be interested in any home brew traps of this type myself, first time I've come across those kind of traps.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16164546
> 
> 
> I believe AbMagFab and jayray are referring to the membrane type bass traps that Roger originally mentioned. I'd be interested in any home brew traps of this type myself, first time I've come across those kind of traps.



Building this kind of diaphram trap is reportedly more difficult than a basic fiberglass absorber panel due to the properties of the diaphram. Manufacturers make many iterations/tests before arriving at the final design. Another source is RealTraps . There's already several threads that hit upon this subject elsewhere at AVSForum. One example:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post15682923


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16164546
> 
> 
> I believe AbMagFab and jayray are referring to the membrane type bass traps that Roger originally mentioned. I'd be interested in any home brew traps of this type myself, first time I've come across those kind of traps.




Try here. Very good info on traps,membranes and rooms in general. Also Real Traps has very easy to understand articles.


[URL=" http://forum.studiotips.com/index.php


----------



## Lordoftherings

Taking care of the room's resonnances and controlling the lower frequencies will be very beneficial for Anthem ARC.

But like Bob, I agree that ARC by itself is already a major improvement.


I think that you need to invest quite a lot to really deal with the lower bass in any room, and that in the end, ARC is the simplest and most efficient way to optimise this issue. It's not perfect, but which room is?


Keep it simple, don't over do it.


By the way, I was very serious about those water fill cylinders used as bass traps.

Couple of those, and ARC will do the rest.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpandreini* /forum/post/16160829
> 
> 
> I've been lurking forever but it's finally time to appeal to a higher power. I've got a URC remote control and I'm using the Appendix A IR macros to change inputs on the Anthem D2. This works great except if I run a macro that tries to select an input that is already selected. So if the Anthem is on TV 1 and I send THX, 8, 9 the 9 is ignored and nothing happens until the sequence times out. The URC remote doesn't maintain state like I suspect the Logitech does. Has anyone got a workaround for this little annoyance beyond tracking the input state in my macros?
> 
> 
> All thanks to Bob Pariseau, Inc., et al., for making the lurking so informative and enjoyable.
> 
> 
> -John-Paul



I have the URC mx-900 and I was having the same problem with the macros from appendix A. I finally added one more command to the end of the macro- THX>8>9>Power on(D2). It works every time now, even if I'm switching to the same source. Its possible that other commands will work, like 'select', but since the D2 is already on there is no harm. It will display the source info on the bottom of the screen for however long you have your display time set to, but I found that far better than the 'enter 0-9 for THX 80' display. This is the same info that would be displayed if you changed sources.

Hope this works for you,

Tom


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16163784
> 
> 
> You are talking about making them I hope.
> 
> 
> Here's a good tip. Find out which material is used on the inside fabric, from the people in the know, and voila.
> 
> 
> My guess, is that it is extra high density foam. Or foam in a can. Do you know what I mean? Or also some dense synthetic stone. When I was in high school, I was doing sculpture, and I used a material called "Syporex".
> 
> I don't know the name in English, I'm French.
> 
> Any of these will do. There are more materials that you can also use.
> 
> Jut think of what absorb the best. You'll see, you'll be surprise with what you can come with. Even a transparent cylinder full of water will do. Put some coloring too, and some light too, even some fish too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not only it will do the trick, but it will look super cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> ______ Bob



LOL!


You're the guy that gave me grief about asking if if should toe in my speakers before I ran ARC. You said something along the lines of me toeing in my speakers has nothing to do with the Anthem thread!


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16166568
> 
> 
> LOL!
> 
> 
> You're the guy that gave me grief about asking if if should toe in my speakers before I ran ARC. You said something along the lines of me toeing in my speakers has nothing to do with the Anthem thread!



^ Agreed I'm not sure why he showed up.


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16166568
> 
> 
> LOL!
> 
> 
> You're the guy that gave me grief about asking if if should toe in my speakers before I ran ARC. You said something along the lines of me toeing in my speakers has nothing to do with the Anthem thread!



Nope, you got the wrong person.

Do you have the Paradigm Studio 100 v5?

Did you show some pictures of your setup?


If you are that guy, you misunderstood me. It was only a joke. ("Is this the thread for Anthem ARC?").

And your speakers (inside their enclosures) should be pointing straight forward, without any toing. I did explain that in a post to Shawn. I was talking about you in the note, but you never answered back.


Cheers to you anyway,


_______ Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

Lordoftherings / Bob, are you planning on buying one of these?


I asked you before if you were in the audio industry, I would assume so with your knowledge bass...


No comment again...?


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16167615
> 
> 
> Lordoftherings / Bob, are you planning on buying one of these?
> 
> 
> I asked you before if you were in the audio industry, I would assume so with your knowledge bass...
> 
> 
> No comment again...?



Sorry Warpdv, I just thought that you were making a joke.

I did in fact was very close to purchase one, but the deal did not fall through.


I don't have a job as an audio engineer or consultant. But I have been in Audio all my life, over 40 years. I can get by. And I do carry with me a pretty good baggage of knowledge. When I put my energy into it, I am becoming very professional in my advices.

But I also, like anyone else, like having a good time talking with people. Exchanging thoughts is good for both sides.


About you?


________

Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

Waiting in line for my D2v, ordered the day they announced backlog.


Lots of DIY subs, GTG's, general knowledge of audio, lots of reading and corroboration with other audiophiles, learning on the fly. Acquiring more expensive gear....










BTW, I am still hung up on the whole time domain correction thing of ARC measurements... Kal Rubinson made some measurement comparisons of ARC to the Audyssey Pro with measurements compiled with XTZ room mode analysis, which both seemingly make corrections to room decay which suggests the same...


Check out his review and comparisons...
http://stereophile.com/musicintheround/1108mitr/ 

and the previous installment with the D2 w/ARC
http://stereophile.com/musicintheround/908mitr/ 


Apperently he now is fiddling with the D2v, I look forward to his further reviews on the Anthem products...


----------



## Lordoftherings

Cool man, I am reading quite a bit myself about TacT.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Anthem and AVS Introduce new "D2v Player" for iPhone and iPod Touch!*

http://www.mp3-converter.biz/players/D2V%20Player.html 


Wow! When did THIS happen?


The list of supported file formats looks rather interesting. I suppose this only works over Wifi connections.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I decided to post my question here thinking that whomever has a D2 or D2v is probably also very demanding when it comes to quality.

So here it is:

- if, like me, you use an HTPC then the refresh rate for movies is set in 2 different places, for best results I mean. The first would be in the HTPC in the display adapter's control panel. The second would be in the D2 (24, 50 or 60).

- 99% of the time all the chain is set as such: 23.976 in my HTPC, 24 in the D2. And this works for all BD's and most of the MKV files I use.

- but sometimes it happens that I have to read a DIVX, a DVD, an odd MKV captured from PAL or NTSC. And then I set the relevant framerate in the HTPC and in the D2 in order to prevent jaggies and skips.


An I have been wondering, with all our technology, isn't there an easier solution for that? How do you do that?


Please share your experience.


Thank you


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16168603
> 
> *Anthem and AVS Introduce new "D2v Player" for iPhone and iPod Touch!*
> 
> http://www.mp3-converter.biz/players/D2V%20Player.html
> 
> 
> Wow! When did THIS happen?
> 
> 
> The list of supported file formats looks rather interesting. I suppose this only works over Wifi connections.
> 
> --Bob



That's awesome I am downloading right now.















Happy April 1st


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16168603
> 
> *Anthem and AVS Introduce new "D2v Player" for iPhone and iPod Touch!*
> 
> http://www.mp3-converter.biz/players/D2V%20Player.html
> 
> 
> Wow! When did THIS happen?
> 
> 
> The list of supported file formats looks rather interesting. I suppose this only works over Wifi connections.
> 
> --Bob










Crikey they should stick to getting the hardware out to those on the wait list instead of playing around with this sort of tomfoolery...


----------



## malcolmp6

Have a quick question on the D2v.

I am making space in my rack for the D2V and am constrained by the opening on a shelf. Would 6 inches height be enough space for the D2v to breathe given that the rack is open from the sides and front?


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malcolmp6* /forum/post/16171749
> 
> 
> Have a quick question on the D2v.
> 
> I am making space in my rack for the D2V and am constrained by the opening on a shelf. Would 6 inches height be enough space for the D2v to breathe given that the rack is open from the sides and front?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I don't think so. The single most important dimension for proper heat dissipation is the open air space above the D2v.


Since the specs say the D2v is 5 7/8 inches tall, a 6 inch shelf spacing is going to give the unit no room at all to breathe. I doubt you'd be able to make it work even if you added an external fan to force air flow in that space.

--Bob


----------



## malcolmp6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16172020
> 
> 
> I don't think so. The single most important dimension for proper heat dissipation is the open air space above the D2v.
> 
> 
> Since the specs say the D2v is 5 7/8 inches tall, a 6 inch shelf spacing is going to give the unit no room at all to breathe. I doubt you'd be able to make it work even if you added an external fan to force air flow in that space.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob! Would an extra inch help (7inch rack height) or would I still be pushing it? Does the D2v get very hot when used for 3-4 hrs at a stretch?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malcolmp6* /forum/post/16172119
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob! Would an extra inch help (7inch rack height) or would I still be pushing it? Does the D2v get very hot when used for 3-4 hrs at a stretch?



The D2v gets pretty warm. The trick is whether the surfaces around it heat up. If they do, then your D2v is in an oven, which is not good. If not, then the heat is getting dissipated. It doesn't matter that the surface of the D2v itself is warm -- it's supposed to be warm since that's how the heat gets out. What matters is whether the surfaces around it are getting warm -- indicating that heat is not actually being dissipated fast enough out of the space.


The less space your provide around the D2v, the more likely you are going to need an external fan to keep those surrounding surfaces from heating up.


You can get a remote sensing thermometer, such as the gun shaped gadgets sold in cooking stores. Point it at a surface and it reports the temperature of that surface. You probably want to limit the ceiling surface over the D2v to something like 10 degrees above ambient room temperature.


I've got my D2v in a double-height space -- i.e., I removed the shelf that would normally have been over it -- that is closed in the front but completely open in the rear (I removed the rear panel of the cabinet). That gives me something like 12 inches clear space above the D2v and that works fine.


Others here are using more constrained spaces but have added external fans.


Anthem no longer gives a recommended spacing spec for these units since the ventilation varies so much from installation to installation.


But personally I would not feel comfortable with less than 6 inches clear space above the D2v if not using an external fan.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16168603
> 
> *Anthem and AVS Introduce new "D2v Player" for iPhone and iPod Touch!*
> 
> http://www.mp3-converter.biz/players/D2V%20Player.html
> 
> 
> Wow! When did THIS happen?
> 
> 
> The list of supported file formats looks rather interesting. I suppose this only works over Wifi connections.
> 
> --Bob



Ok... I admit it.. I have no idea what this means. As an owner of an Iphone and I touch and a D2....and one who streams itunes to his D2 via an airport express/home wifi.... can you please explain what the practical implications of this are?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16172424
> 
> 
> Ok... I admit it.. I have no idea what this means. As an owner of an Iphone and I touch and a D2....and one who streams itunes to his D2 via an airport express/home wifi.... can you please explain what the practical implications of this are?



I've been looking for more details but haven't found a press release or anything like that yet.


Try searching for "Anthem D2v Player" in Google. If you find details please do post them here.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

Am I the only one not following this or are we all on an April fools trip?


This is nothing to do with *OUR* D2V....the name is just a coincidence. Right?


----------



## Warpdrv

Yes... the site linked from Bob was a link for video and audio converting site, and lists the codecs involved as such...


I am familiar with some of those conversion programs that will allow the Iphone and Ipod touch to play said converted material....










Its so you can load a dvd onto your device and watch a movie on a postage stamp


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16172308
> 
> 
> The D2v gets pretty warm. The trick is whether the surfaces around it heat up. If they do, then your D2v is in an oven, which is not good. If not, then the heat is getting dissipated. It doesn't matter that the surface of the D2v itself is warm -- it's supposed to be warm since that's how the heat gets out. What matters is whether the surfaces around it are getting warm -- indicating that heat is not actually being dissipated fast enough out of the space.
> 
> 
> The less space your provide around the D2v, the more likely you are going to need an external fan to keep those surrounding surfaces from heating up.
> 
> 
> You can get a remote sensing thermometer, such as the gun shaped gadgets sold in cooking stores. Point it at a surface and it reports the temperature of that surface. You probably want to limit the ceiling surface over the D2v to something like 10 degrees above ambient room temperature.
> 
> 
> I've got my D2v in a double-height space -- i.e., I removed the shelf that would normally have been over it -- that is closed in the front but completely open in the rear (I removed the rear panel of the cabinet). That gives me something like 12 inches clear space above the D2v and that works fine.
> 
> 
> Others here are using more constrained spaces but have added external fans.
> 
> 
> Anthem no longer gives a recommended spacing spec for these units since the ventilation varies so much from installation to installation.
> 
> 
> But personally I would not feel comfortable with less than 6 inches clear space above the D2v if not using an external fan.
> 
> --Bob



walt here. re: breathing space for D2 (D2V). I have my D2 in a _wood box_, with 2" head room for the d2. (sits over the p5, on a solid wood shelf).

i removed the rear panel, after i disconnected the fan.

(too noisy)

yes, it gets warm, but, to date, no operational issues.

just a fyi.

walt


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malcolmp6* /forum/post/16171749
> 
> 
> Have a quick question on the D2v.
> 
> I am making space in my rack for the D2V and am constrained by the opening on a shelf. Would 6 inches height be enough space for the D2v to breathe given that the rack is open from the sides and front?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Your D2 is 4U high, leave 2U space above. 1U= 1 3/4"


----------



## The Bogg

Just thought I'd post a follow-up to a previous post. I had indicated that I wasn't getting quite the bass I expected from ARC with my 4 JL F113 subs. I did an "override" of the ARC settings and found a slightly better solution which wasn't quite as "clean" sounding.

To make a long story short, one of my F113s was defective (disturbingly it was the one that was just replaced because of a problem - just waiting to hear what JL is going to do for me). If I calibrated it at 75db like the other 3 subs everything measured fine with a smooth reasonably flat response so I didn't think anything was wrong. I had the 4 subs set to reach approx 75db when all 4 were on and then ARC set the sub level at -7.5.


I was watching WOTW the pod emerging scene and 3 out of the 4 subs were dancing like there was no tomorrow and the 4th one barely seemed to be breaking a sweat. I rechecked the basic level and it was fine. The sub has a problem when the volume is raised as it doesn't have the corresponding higher output which affects the bass balance and I believe this was responsible for my perception that it didn't have as much impact as expected. I recalibrated with 3 subs, ARC set the sub level to -3.5 which is a full 4db different than what it was before, and presumably that's how far off the bass level was at higher volumes with the faulty sub

in play.

With the new ARC default settings the bass from the 3 subs is amazing. Deep, powerful, and clean. Looks like ARC is still smarter than The Bogg after all.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/16173429
> 
> 
> Your D2 is 4U high, leave 2U space above. 1U= 1 3/4"



More precisely, his D2v is 5 7/8 inches tall including the feet (see the Specifications page in the Manual).


A 6U high space is 10 1/2 inches tall. That leaves 4 5/8 inch clearance above a standard model D2v. That could be fine, particular if it is open to good ventilation. But I'm going to stick with my more conservative 6 inches. A 3U space above gives 6 3/8 inches total clearance. So I'd suggest a 7U total space (12 1/4 inches) with decent ventilation. The poorer the natural ventilation, the more clearance you should plan on having above -- or an external fan.


[My understanding is that the "rack-mount" version of the D2v will fit into a 3U space without the feet. I'm not sure whether it sits flush to the bottom of that space though. Even if it does it will still be a close fit on top. Which means 3U above it still only gives 5 1/4 inches clearance. So a 7U total space would still be more agreeable to me assuming you aren't adding a fan.]

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/16176215
> 
> 
> Just thought I'd post a follow-up to a previous post. I had indicated that I wasn't getting quite the bass I expected from ARC with my 4 JL F113 subs. I did an "override" of the ARC settings and found a slightly better solution which wasn't quite as "clean" sounding.
> 
> To make a long story short, one of my F113s was defective (disturbingly it was the one that was just replaced because of a problem - just waiting to hear what JL is going to do for me). If I calibrated it at 75db like the other 3 subs everything measured fine with a smooth reasonably flat response so I didn't think anything was wrong. I had the 4 subs set to reach approx 75db when all 4 were on and then ARC set the sub level at -7.5.
> 
> 
> I was watching WOTW the pod emerging scene and 3 out of the 4 subs were dancing like there was no tomorrow and the 4th one barely seemed to be breaking a sweat. I rechecked the basic level and it was fine. The sub has a problem when the volume is raised as it doesn't have the corresponding higher output which affects the bass balance and I believe this was responsible for my perception that it didn't have as much impact as expected. I recalibrated with 3 subs, ARC set the sub level to -3.5 which is a full 4db different than what it was before, and presumably that's how far off the bass level was at higher volumes with the faulty sub
> 
> in play.
> 
> With the new ARC default settings the bass from the 3 subs is amazing. Deep, powerful, and clean. Looks like ARC is still smarter than The Bogg after all.



That's great to hear (urh, wait, you just said that)!


So I take it with the faulty sub out of the mix, you find ARC's automatic solution works just fine, right? You are not altering that?


This is ALMOST another case of Richard Syndrome: Discovering via ARC that you have been living with, and apparently enjoying up to now, a broken speaker. But I guess you really spotted it by eye more than by ARC.


----------------------------------------------


When you combine subs, achieving a total sub output of 75dB means calibrating each sub individually to LESS THAN 75dB. For example, with 2 subs the rule of thumb is to calibrate each to 73dB (using the Level Calibration test tones in the Anthem with "1 sub" set in the Speaker Configuration and only one subwoofer powered at a time). When both subs are powered, those two 73dB SPL settings combine to produce roughly 75dB SPL total output.


So the -3.5dB trim you are getting now is likely due to the 3 subs together being a bit too hot since you set each of them individually to 75dB. Adding in the 4th sub would compound that a bit, but probably not as much as another 4dB. I suspect ARC made other, compensating adjustments there in the room correction parameters trying to deal with the faulty output from the broken sub.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/16176215
> 
> 
> To make a long story short, one of my F113s was defective



ARC helped me determine I had a SLIGHT Defect in my

Right Front Speaker. I had to REBUILD both the Right

and Left Front [so they would match again].


ARC can be EXPENSIVE







in a Good Way - to help find

problems you didn't know you had


----------



## The Bogg

I checked the subs frequency response with a level of 75db

at 78hz for consistency but set them a bit lower than that to match my mains so I'd have the option of trying the front 2 subs with my mains in 2-channel (I have a separate preamp). That's why I didn't set all 4 to combine to 75db.


I like ARC's automatic solution. I will wait and see what happens when 4 subs are back in the mix and if I need to adjust anything beyond Anthem default, but it is very good.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16176793
> 
> 
> That's great to hear (urh, wait, you just said that)!
> 
> 
> So I take it with the faulty sub out of the mix, you find ARC's automatic solution works just fine, right? You are not altering that?
> 
> 
> This is ALMOST another case of Richard Syndrome: Discovering via ARC that you have been living with, and apparently enjoying up to now, a broken speaker. But I guess you really spotted it by eye more than by ARC.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> When you combine subs, achieving a total sub output of 75dB means calibrating each sub individually to LESS THAN 75dB. For example, with 2 subs the rule of thumb is to calibrate each to 73dB (using the Level Calibration test tones in the Anthem with "1 sub" set in the Speaker Configuration and only one subwoofer powered at a time). When both subs are powered, those two 73dB SPL settings combine to produce roughly 75dB SPL total output.
> 
> 
> So the -3.5dB trim you are getting now is likely due to the 3 subs together being a bit too hot since you set each of them individually to 75dB. Adding in the 4th sub would compound that a bit, but probably not as much as another 4dB. I suspect ARC made other, compensating adjustments there in the room correction parameters trying to deal with the faulty output from the broken sub.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## The Bogg

At ARC calibration levels there is no "problem" so ARC wouldn't have picked up any issues.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/16178678
> 
> 
> At ARC calibration levels there is no "problem" so ARC wouldn't have picked up any issues.



That's true. ARC won't pick up on non-linear power response due to faulty amps or faulty driver motors in speakers.


Your sub failure is unusual, but more common would be folks who have amps that are clipping at the very high volume levels they like to use, or have subs that are bottoming out at high volume levels -- perhaps only at some frequencies.


So it is still possible to have audible failures in your speakers/amps even though the ARC charts look perfect.


You can also have room characteristics that show up only at higher volume levels, such as buzz or rattling at certain frequencies. Or complaints from the neighbors....

--Bob


----------



## ScottHT

So last night I attempted to play my first TrueHD Blu-Ray disc (Dark Knight) and noticed that my AVM50v wouldn't decode the bitstream signal is was getting from a Samsung BDP-1400 -- instead it just defaulted to Dolby Digital 5.1 or the like. I have the lastest firmware for both the source and processor. When I attempted to manually change the audio setting from the movie popup menu, I heard this intermittent scratchy sound, so my only choice for listening was the default Dolby Digital 5.1.


As a test I changed the BDP-1400 audio settings to PCM out and was expecting the AVM50v to display "Dolby TrueHD" even though the endcoding/decoding was local to the blu-ray source, but that didn't change what was on the display either. I am not entirely sure the AVM50v should display Dolby TrueHD in this case, but thought I would bring it up.


Is this an issue with the blu-ray source, blu-ray disc, AVM50v source setup, or a combination of the three?


Any advice is welcomed.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ScottHT* /forum/post/16187775
> 
> 
> So last night I attempted to play my first TrueHD Blu-Ray disc (Dark Knight) and noticed that my AVM50v wouldn't decode the bitstream signal is was getting from a Samsung BDP-1400 -- instead it just defaulted to Dolby Digital 5.1 or the like. I have the lastest firmware for both the source and processor. When I attempted to manually change the audio setting from the movie popup menu, I heard this intermittent scratchy sound, so my only choice for listening was the default Dolby Digital 5.1.
> 
> 
> As a test I changed the BDP-1400 audio settings to PCM out and was expecting the AVM50v to display "Dolby TrueHD" even though the endcoding/decoding was local to the blu-ray source, but that didn't change what was on the display either. I am not entirely sure the AVM50v should display Dolby TrueHD in this case, but thought I would bring it up.
> 
> 
> Is this an issue with the blu-ray source, blu-ray disc, AVM50v source setup, or a combination of the three?
> 
> 
> Any advice is welcomed.



I think you need to check the configuration of your BDP-1400.


1) LPCM is not bitstream, so you'll get HD audio but you won't see a "TrueHD" light on the AVM50v


2) If the AVM50 was saying "Dolby Digital", then you were sending Dolby Digital. Are you sure you picked the right sound track on the BluRay when you played it?


There isn't some magic in the bitstream, so if the AVM50 said Dolby Digital, you were sending a Dolby Digital bitstream, not a TrueHD bitstream. Many discs default to non-HD audio tracks, and you need to manually select the proper track.


I'm assuming you're connected via HDMI only, but that's also a requirement.


In any case, it's generally considered preferable to have the decoding done in the source device, but you still need to make sure you're picking the HD audio track, or you're just sending a PCM version of Dolby Digital, which isn't that great.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ScottHT* /forum/post/16187775
> 
> 
> So last night I attempted to play my first TrueHD Blu-Ray disc (Dark Knight) and noticed that my AVM50v wouldn't decode the bitstream signal is was getting from a Samsung BDP-1400 -- instead it just defaulted to Dolby Digital 5.1 or the like. I have the lastest firmware for both the source and processor. When I attempted to manually change the audio setting from the movie popup menu, I heard this intermittent scratchy sound, so my only choice for listening was the default Dolby Digital 5.1.
> 
> 
> As a test I changed the BDP-1400 audio settings to PCM out and was expecting the AVM50v to display "Dolby TrueHD" even though the endcoding/decoding was local to the blu-ray source, but that didn't change what was on the display either. I am not entirely sure the AVM50v should display Dolby TrueHD in this case, but thought I would bring it up.
> 
> 
> Is this an issue with the blu-ray source, blu-ray disc, AVM50v source setup, or a combination of the three?
> 
> 
> Any advice is welcomed.



Your last part is easier. When you tell the player to do the decoding and send HDMI LPCM to the AVM 50v, there's no way for the AVM 50v to know what type of track was decoded. All it sees is the decoded LPCM input. So that's what it will report regardless of whether the source track was TrueHD, DTS-HD MA, one of the lossy audio formats, or a high bandwidth raw LPCM track.


As to the first part, I don't know your Samsung player, so I don't know if it is supposed to be able to send out TrueHD or DTS-HD MA as HDMI Bitstream. If it can't, then what happens is that it sends out the "core" or "associated" lossy format track that is on disc for just such compatibility purposes. When you select a TrueHD track, the "associated" compatibility track is DD5.1. When you select a DTS-HD MA track, the "core" compatibility track is DTS5.1.


You may also get the "core" or "associated" lossy track if you turn on a "secondary audio" feature on the disc -- such as some types of director's commentary tracks. The player can't mix the secondary audio onto the undecoded bitstream of the TrueHD or DTS-HD MA track so it decodes it, does the mixing, and re-encodes the combo as lossy DD5.1 or DTS5.1 on the fly for output. Some players will do this if you enable secondary audio mixing in the player's settings even if you DON'T actually use a feature like this from the disc.


[You will also get only the "core" or "associated" lossy tracks if you connect over Optical or Coax Digital Audio cable for audio instead of using HDMI for audio. The Optical/Coax cabling can not carry the high bandwidth audio tracks (as either bitstream or LPCM) so the compatibility track is automatically used instead.]


So hook up via HDMI, check your player settings for a secondary audio feature and turn it off if you find it, double check that your player is even supposed to be able to output HDMI Bitstream for TrueHD or DTS-HD MA, and try again.


As for the problem you had when you tried to switch audio types while playing the disc, your player may have a problem doing that on the fly -- a bad "HDMI handshake" as it tries to change the output format. Try forcing a new handshake by temporarily switching your AVM 50v to a different input and then back to the player.


Let us know how this turns out. There may be others here with that player who can help you with specific settings.


--------------------------------------


By the way, "The Dark Knight" Blu-Ray is reported to have problems playing on some players. So check that you have the latest firmware installed for your player.

--Bob


----------



## facke02

Bob,


I've replaced my front speakers, the others had satellite subs.


Would you mind giving me your thoughts on my latest measurements?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16191056
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I've replaced my front speakers, the others had satellite subs.
> 
> 
> Would you mind giving me your thoughts on my latest measurements?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I'd say these look fine. You have some modest wiggles in a few of the green Calculated curves. Try backing off Max EQ Frequency a bit to see if they are sensitive to that. For example, try 15KHz. If they are not particularly sensitive to that, then just stay with the 20KHz results. If they smooth out, then do a few more iterations to see how high up you can go before they appear.


ARC has found a small Room Gain for your room which may in fact be the case for your room based on just an eyeball appraisal of the red Measured curves. It's certainly not a problem but you might try pushing it up a bit higher (try 2dB or 2.5 dB) and see if you like the sound of that better -- particularly for the Movie configuration. You might decide you like it better where it is for Music. Just trust your ears.


Your sub is a little weak in the subsonic frequencies. It is good down to about 25Hz which is certainly a good deal better than most people get. But there are subs that can go deeper. There's nothing you really need to do right away -- we're very much into fine tuning here. You might try moving the sub a bit closer to a solid wall/corner to get some Boundary Gain at the lowest frequencies. Other than that, just keep it in mind the next time you are thinking about upgrading speakers.


Check the volume trims ARC has uploaded to see if there's a mismatch between, say, the sub and the other speakers. ARC has raised your basic volume level a few dB higher than normal which often means it is trying to find a target basic volume that lets it get all the speakers into equal trim. If the volume trims are not all within a few dB either side of 0dB, consider doing the exercise where you set the Test/Noise level in the Anthem and then volume knob on the sub. Then re-Measure.


But practically speaking, you could quite reasonably declare victory right now! I think this solution should sound very good indeed. Your new front speakers seem to be doing well!

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16191180
> 
> 
> I'd say these look fine. You have some modest wiggles in a few of the green Calculated curves. Try backing off Max EQ Frequency a bit to see if they are sensitive to that. For example, try 15KHz. If they are not particularly sensitive to that, then just stay with the 20KHz results. If they smooth out, then do a few more iterations to see how high up you can go before they appear.
> 
> 
> ARC has found a small Room Gain for your room which may in fact be the case for your room based on just an eyeball appraisal of the red Measured curves. It's certainly not a problem but you might try pushing it up a bit higher (try 2dB or 2.5 dB) and see if you like the sound of that better -- particularly for the Movie configuration. You might decide you like it better where it is for Music. Just trust your ears.
> 
> 
> Your sub is a little weak in the subsonic frequencies. It is good down to about 25Hz which is certainly a good deal better than most people get. But there are subs that can go deeper. There's nothing you really need to do right away -- we're very much into fine tuning here. You might try moving the sub a bit closer to a solid wall/corner to get some Boundary Gain at the lowest frequencies. Other than that, just keep it in mind the next time you are thinking about upgrading speakers.
> 
> 
> Check the volume trims ARC has uploaded to see if there's a mismatch between, say, the sub and the other speakers. ARC has raised your basic volume level a few dB higher than normal which often means it is trying to find a target basic volume that lets it get all the speakers into equal trim. If the volume trims are not all within a few dB either side of 0dB, consider doing the exercise where you set the Test/Noise level in the Anthem and then volume knob on the sub. Then re-Measure.
> 
> 
> But practically speaking, you could quite reasonably declare victory right now! I think this solution should sound very good indeed. Your new front speakers seem to be doing well!
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob


I tried several combinations and 15KHz of Max EQ and 2db of Room Gain seems to flatten that calculated lines some. My center is in the cabinet which could explain the waves in the lines.


My sub is a JL Audio F113 and it is in the front left corner of the room, see picture below. It does face right toward the cabinet and TV. Maybe I should point it into the room.


My volume trims are a little out of line with your recommendation, so I'll redo and remeasure.


Thanks for all the tips...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Okey doke! Remember, when you get this close to perfection your ears are better than looking at charts to find the best solution. So if you think a result sounds better even though the chart may have a few more wiggles vs. an uncorrected part at the highest frequencies, go with what your ears are telling you.

--Bob


----------



## facke02

Bob, you're absolutely right, go with the tools that god have us… Thanks again.


----------



## Warpdrv

If we could only teach some people, that we were given 2 ears and 1 mouth, we should listen twice as much as we talk - this world would be a better place...


----------



## ScottHT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16187916
> 
> 
> I think you need to check the configuration of your BDP-1400.
> 
> 
> 1) LPCM is not bitstream, so you'll get HD audio but you won't see a "TrueHD" light on the AVM50v
> 
> 
> 2) If the AVM50 was saying "Dolby Digital", then you were sending Dolby Digital. Are you sure you picked the right sound track on the BluRay when you played it?
> 
> 
> There isn't some magic in the bitstream, so if the AVM50 said Dolby Digital, you were sending a Dolby Digital bitstream, not a TrueHD bitstream. Many discs default to non-HD audio tracks, and you need to manually select the proper track.
> 
> 
> I'm assuming you're connected via HDMI only, but that's also a requirement.
> 
> 
> In any case, it's generally considered preferable to have the decoding done in the source device, but you still need to make sure you're picking the HD audio track, or you're just sending a PCM version of Dolby Digital, which isn't that great.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16187962
> 
> 
> Your last part is easier. When you tell the player to do the decoding and send HDMI LPCM to the AVM 50v, there's no way for the AVM 50v to know what type of track was decoded. All it sees is the decoded LPCM input. So that's what it will report regardless of whether the source track was TrueHD, DTS-HD MA, one of the lossy audio formats, or a high bandwidth raw LPCM track.
> 
> 
> As to the first part, I don't know your Samsung player, so I don't know if it is supposed to be able to send out TrueHD or DTS-HD MA as HDMI Bitstream. If it can't, then what happens is that it sends out the "core" or "associated" lossy format track that is on disc for just such compatibility purposes. When you select a TrueHD track, the "associated" compatibility track is DD5.1. When you select a DTS-HD MA track, the "core" compatibility track is DTS5.1.
> 
> 
> You may also get the "core" or "associated" lossy track if you turn on a "secondary audio" feature on the disc -- such as some types of director's commentary tracks. The player can't mix the secondary audio onto the undecoded bitstream of the TrueHD or DTS-HD MA track so it decodes it, does the mixing, and re-encodes the combo as lossy DD5.1 or DTS5.1 on the fly for output. Some players will do this if you enable secondary audio mixing in the player's settings even if you DON'T actually use a feature like this from the disc.
> 
> 
> [You will also get only the "core" or "associated" lossy tracks if you connect over Optical or Coax Digital Audio cable for audio instead of using HDMI for audio. The Optical/Coax cabling can not carry the high bandwidth audio tracks (as either bitstream or LPCM) so the compatibility track is automatically used instead.]
> 
> 
> So hook up via HDMI, check your player settings for a secondary audio feature and turn it off if you find it, double check that your player is even supposed to be able to output HDMI Bitstream for TrueHD or DTS-HD MA, and try again.
> 
> 
> As for the problem you had when you tried to switch audio types while playing the disc, your player may have a problem doing that on the fly -- a bad "HDMI handshake" as it tries to change the output format. Try forcing a new handshake by temporarily switching your AVM 50v to a different input and then back to the player.
> 
> 
> Let us know how this turns out. There may be others here with that player who can help you with specific settings.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> By the way, "The Dark Knight" Blu-Ray is reported to have problems playing on some players. So check that you have the latest firmware installed for your player.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the feedback. Good news, I Think this issue is related to the Samsung blu-ray player. First of all let me clarify a few things. The player does support TrueHD bitstream and I am connecting the player to the AVM50v via HDMI. One unique modification I had to make with the player was changing the speaker configuration from "small" to "large" which disables the players bass management.


So to eliminate the AVM50v as the problem I replaced blu-ray discs and put in "The Transformers" which has a TrueHD track. This worked right away and the AVM50v acknowleded TrueHD on the front panel. I then put the Dark Knight disc back in and manually selected TrueHD from the movie settings, and suddenly the AVM50v recognized the TrueHD stream.


Funny, I have seen a similar problem before with this player where a more advanced blu-ray disc requires a jump start from a different disc that may be similar in audio tracks but different in features. Anyways it all seems to work now, so thanks for the advice.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ScottHT* /forum/post/16194482
> 
> 
> I then put the Dark Knight disc back in and *manually selected TrueHD from the movie settings*, and suddenly the AVM50v recognized the TrueHD stream.



I think that's the only issue - human error. Some discs need you to manually select the HD audio track, some default to it. I'd wager if you simply manually selected the TrueHD track originally, it would have been fine.


----------



## ScottHT

Actually, prior to the first post I attempted several times to manually set the audio track to TrueHD --- maybe I didn't make it clear --- so, no, it's not human error. As I stated in the second post the Samsung blu-ray player has had problems with discs that have new, e.g. BD live 2.0 features, but seem to recover if a disc with the same audio resolution but less features was just loaded in the player beforehand.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If it happens again, here are a few other things to try that might kick it into the proper gear -- simpler than having to swap discs if they work:


1) Interrupt the audio stream -- e.g., Chapter Forward and Chapter Back


2) Force a new HDMI handshake -- e.g., change output resolutions of the player to anything else and back. Also try it from the Anthem side -- switch to a different input and back to the player.


3) If the player has a setting that enables mixing in of Secondary Audio, turn that off.

--Bob


----------



## akopperl

Can you safely mix XLR and RCA cables?


My amp for the front channels has XLR inputs, but my amp for the rear channels only has RCA inputs. If possible, I would prefer to use XLR's for the fronts - but not if it is going to cause any issues. I believe that XLR's have higher output and I do not want to have an issue balancing channel levels.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/16195873
> 
> 
> Can you safely mix XLR and RCA cables?
> 
> 
> My amp for the front channels has XLR inputs, but my amp for the rear channels only has RCA inputs. If possible, I would prefer to use XLR's for the fronts - but not if it is going to cause any issues. I believe that XLR's have higher output and I do not want to have an issue balancing channel levels.
> 
> 
> Thanks



The standard, volume level difference between XLR and RCA is the only issue.


Check your amp as it may already have a switch for the XLR input that will compensate for the standard 6dB volume difference (XLR 6dB higher than RCA, so you need to lower XLR volume). Or it may be set that way by default. If not, you will need to compensate using the speaker volume trim settings in the Setup menu. Of course if you use ARC, these get set automatically for you.

--Bob


----------



## "MIKEY"

Attached are my recent ARC 2.1 graphs. The pictures look great, but the sound appears somewhat "shrill" due to the 15000 bump in the Max EQ Freq. setting-I may bring it down. I really like how the lower frequencies are controlled with the ARC settings.


Any thoughts?


Thanks.

"Mikey"

Attachment 138811 
Attachment 138812 
Attachment 138813


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/16197639
> 
> 
> Attached are my recent ARC 2.1 graphs. The pictures look great, but the sound appears somewhat "shrill" due to the 15000 bump in the Max EQ Freq. setting-I may bring it down. I really like how the lower frequencies are controlled with the ARC settings.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> "Mikey"
> 
> Attachment 138811
> Attachment 138812
> Attachment 138813



Well the Movie configuration shown in the charts doesn't look bad at all, but why did you lower the cutoffs to 25Hz in the Music configuration?


Your Surrounds in particular aren't Measuring nearly well enough down there to justify that.


In addition, if you are going to lower the cutoffs like that, you should probably also check the Full Range box to turn off bass steering from those speakers to the subwoofer.


If the problem you are hearing is with sources using the Music configuration, this may be the cause. You have asked ARC to do substantial additional correction at low frequency for Music configuration, and so it probably had to forego some work up at the highest frequencies.


In the View menu, you can select to view the charts for your Music configuration.


---------------------------------------------


If, on the other hand, you are hearing this problem with sources using the Movie configuration (i.e., the charts you posted), then there's no ready explanation from the charts. Even the UNcorrected curves up there are not bad.


So go back to basics and check a couple things: Make sure you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON set for every source. Be sure to check each source.


Also consider your mic placement. It is important to have the mic near seated ear height -- usually using the same height for each mic position. If you do your Measurements with the mic at, say, standing ear height, you may get harshness or "brilliance" even though the curves look good. The higher frequencies are very directional (speaker dispersion patterns have odd shapes up there) so it is important that ARC is hearing and correcting the same high frequency field that you will hear when seated.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters

Hi Bob P,


I recently installed linacoustic panels all throughout my room up to 5' high based upon Bryan Pape's advice. They are not covered in GOM yet, so I suppose the measurement results could change a little from that, but I was hoping to get your opinion of the results to see if I should look into covering more of the walls in linacoustic or if there are any areas I should concentrate on before I cover them.


Here are the charts I just did from my measurement. I did 20k on max eq and raised the cutoff on the LCR to 25hz.


Thanks,

Shawn


----------



## Montekay

I ordered my ARC yesterday. I have an unexpected few days at home now but unfortunately I'll be back in New Mexico before it arrives so it may be a few weeks before I get to play with it.


I did take a few measurements of my mains. These are currently the only speakers playing, the center and surrounds are still under construction. The measurements were made at each seat with the microphone in the approximate position of the listener's head. Seats right of center were measured based on the right speaker only playing and seats left of center were made with the left speaker only playing.


The back row is basically over flow seating. I have eleven seats but typically have two to four people for movies so I'm not too worried about that area. I understand ARC can base corrections on up to ten measurements so I think I will let it base it on the eight main seats of the front and middle rows.


I have not installed any room treatment yet. The Owens Corning 703 sheets are still in the boxes they came in. I'm not sure when I'll get that done. It will be interesting to see how well ARC can clean up the response without room treatment. I'll post the results as soon as I get the chance to use ARC.


Monte


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16198055
> 
> 
> Hi Bob P,
> 
> 
> I recently installed linacoustic panels all throughout my room up to 5' high based upon Bryan Pape's advice. They are not covered in GOM yet, so I suppose the measurement results could change a little from that, but I was hoping to get your opinion of the results to see if I should look into covering more of the walls in linacoustic or if there are any areas I should concentrate on before I cover them.
> 
> 
> Here are the charts I just did from my measurement. I did 20k on max eq and raised the cutoff on the LCR to 25hz.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Shawn



I'm surprised to see little improvement in the high end. I'm not familiar with linacoustic, but how does it compare to the more typical OC703/705?


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16200913
> 
> 
> I'm surprised to see little improvement in the high end. I'm not familiar with linacoustic, but how does it compare to the more typical OC703/705?



If you're covering almost all the wall surfaces it's what people like Dennis Erskine and such recommend to use. I am kind of shocked too that it didn't make a huge improvement. I posted the charts in my build thread for you to see too.


It's possible the wood frames of the panels are causing some reflections and that it will improve once they are all wrapped in fabric. I'm curious though, if I should go all the way up to the ceiling in the linacoustic though since the 5' high didn't seem to make much improvement. For what it's worth, the room sounds much better than before and the 'clap test' results in no reverb like it did before. So why didn't the charts reflect that..?


----------



## obie_fl

Shawn - Dennis recommends going floor to ceiling on the entire front wall and also the front two side walls out to about 5 or 6 feet as I recall. Also have you done anything to your ceiling? I would at least do the ceiling behind your screen and under your soffits. You can see some of my treatments at my HT link below. What do you have on the walls above the treatments? I used batting covered by GOM to provide some dispersion.


Dennis believes in a fairly dead room since for HT use you are recreating the ambiance with the surround channels. This may not be the best for pure music listening where liveliness may be desired to a certain degree.


I wouldn't think the wood frames would make much of a difference and covering them with GOM isn't going to help as the whole idea behind GOM is it being acoustically transparent.


Your HT is very similar to mine in size, entrance location and even your carpeting.


----------



## shawnwalters

Cool theater, thanks for the info Tom.


Behind the screen - Front wall, side walls and ceiling are completely dead - 2"+, bass traps in front corners.


Since my GOM won't be here until the end of the week, I think I may try to run linacoustic up to the ceiling and rerun ARC to see how it looks and of course watch a movie or two and see how it sounds.


----------



## akopperl

Bob,


Would you mind looking at the attached ARC screenshots. I have Definitive Technology Mythos Speakers (STS, Ten, GemXL) connected. Currently, I do not have a dedicated sub. I am using the LFE input for each speaker connected to the two sub outs on the AVM50v.


My room is very open with high ceilings - vaulted 18 foot peak. The room itself is not large (17 x 15), but it opens to the rest of the downstairs. The left side is a little more closed off as there is a full wall for much of that side of the room, but the right side opens to the stairs.


My main concern is the significant difference in measurements below 120 Hz for my main front right and left speakers. Why would the difference be so significant?


I also did not like the idea of crossing the center so high (135 Hz) as I prefer to have most if not all of the dialog coming from one speaker.


I modified the Cinema settings, but left the Music settings at the Anthem Default so I could easily switch to the defaults if necessary.


Thanks

 

AVM50v - Cinema - 05APR09.doc 192.5k . file

 

AVM50v - Music - 05APR09.doc 193.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/16201874
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Would you mind looking at the attached ARC screenshots. I have Definitive Technology Mythos Speakers (STS, Ten, GemXL) connected. Currently, I do not have a dedicated sub. I am using the LFE input for each speaker connected to the two sub outs on the AVM50v.
> 
> 
> My room is very open with high ceilings - vaulted 18 foot peak. The room itself is not large (17 x 15), but it opens to the rest of the downstairs. The left side is a little more closed off as there is a full wall for much of that side of the room, but the right side opens to the stairs.
> 
> 
> My main concern is the significant difference in measurements below 120 Hz for my main front right and left speakers. Why would the difference be so significant?
> 
> 
> I also did not like the idea of crossing the center so high (135 Hz) as I prefer to have most if not all of the dialog coming from one speaker.
> 
> 
> I modified the Cinema settings, but left the Music settings at the Anthem Default so I could easily switch to the defaults if necessary.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I think you have things set up incorrectly.


As I understand it, your LF/RF speakers have an LFE input so that you can feed LFE to them and use them in place of a subwoofer. I.e., there isn't actually a separate subwoofer portion to them, they are just full-range speakers with an additional LFE input that they will mix internally with their normal input.


If that's what's going on then what you should do is disconnect the LFE feed wires to both LF and RF and tell ARC you have no subwoofer in your setup.


ARC will arrange for LFE to be steered to LF/RF as well as for bass to be steered to LF/RF from the other speakers. And all of this will happen on the normal feed wire to LF/RF.


[The separate LFE inputs on such speakers are for use with receivers that aren't as smart as the Anthem about handling "no subwoofer" configurations.]


---------------------------------------------------------


When you do this, ARC will also assert "Full-Range" on LF/RF. You should re-Measure that way and see what ARC comes up with for "cutoff" for LF/RF. You may still want to lower that further, but see what ARC comes up with first. By eyeball it looks like LF/RF can handle down to around 35Hz.


---------------------------------------------------------


Meanwhile your C speaker looks like it has a problem. Its bass driver is either broken or you haven't wired C correctly. If C has separate input jacks for bass, be sure they are wired up -- usually by bus bars at the speaker connecting them to the mid-treble input so one feed wire pair drives both inputs. Right now it is only giving decent output down to around 125Hz. The Calculated curve ARC has produced shows that corrected, but if the woofer is actually not functioning in C you are likely not actually getting the corrected output ARC is predicting.


Your Surround speakers are also weak in bass. This may just be the characteristic of those speakers but check their hookup and function as well.


You can test driver function by playing a CD with bass content and setting the Anthem to Stereo All mode which will send the same output everywhere. Since the crossovers are set high you won't get a lot of bass out of C and LS/RS, but you should still get enough to determine the woofer is firing (get up close to it).


If any of these speakers has an internal crossover, disable it so that they will all operate as close to "full range" as they are capable.


--------------------------------------------------------


The difference in bass response between LF and RF might be due to the difference in placement, but the first thing to check is any bass configuration settings on the speaker itself. Since they have an LFE input, they may have an internal crossover which is adjustable.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16198055
> 
> 
> Hi Bob P,
> 
> 
> I recently installed linacoustic panels all throughout my room up to 5' high based upon Bryan Pape's advice. They are not covered in GOM yet, so I suppose the measurement results could change a little from that, but I was hoping to get your opinion of the results to see if I should look into covering more of the walls in linacoustic or if there are any areas I should concentrate on before I cover them.
> 
> 
> Here are the charts I just did from my measurement. I did 20k on max eq and raised the cutoff on the LCR to 25hz.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Shawn



I'll let others try to help you with your room treatment questions. I have nothing to offer there.


If you are going to fiddle with the "cutoff" target values for LF/RF and C don't forget to also check the "full-range" box to disable bass steering from them to the sub.


Your changes may have deadened bass in LS/RS a bit, too. I believe ARC had lower crossover values for them in your last result. They are not really bad where they are now, so really just pointing out the change.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters

Oh thanks. I forgot I changed the crossovers for the surrounds last time and forgot to do so this time. Thank you, I will change those, check the box and see how it sounds.


----------



## akopperl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16202261
> 
> 
> I think you have things set up incorrectly.
> 
> 
> As I understand it, your LF/RF speakers have an LFE input so that you can feed LFE to them and use them in place of a subwoofer. I.e., there isn't actually a separate subwoofer portion to them, they are just full-range speakers with an additional LFE input that they will mix internally with their normal input.
> 
> 
> If that's what's going on then what you should do is disconnect the LFE feed wires to both LF and RF and tell ARC you have no subwoofer in your setup.
> 
> 
> ARC will arrange for LFE to be steered to LF/RF as well as for bass to be steered to LF/RF from the other speakers. And all of this will happen on the normal feed wire to LF/RF.
> 
> 
> [The separate LFE inputs on such speakers are for use with receivers that aren't as smart as the Anthem about handling "no subwoofer" configurations.]
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> When you do this, ARC will also assert "Full-Range" on LF/RF. You should re-Measure that way and see what ARC comes up with for "cutoff" for LF/RF. You may still want to lower that further, but see what ARC comes up with first. By eyeball it looks like LF/RF can handle down to around 35Hz.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Meanwhile your C speaker looks like it has a problem. Its bass driver is either broken or you haven't wired C correctly. If C has separate input jacks for bass, be sure they are wired up -- usually by bus bars at the speaker connecting them to the mid-treble input so one feed wire pair drives both inputs. Right now it is only giving decent output down to around 125Hz. The Calculated curve ARC has produced shows that corrected, but if the woofer is actually not functioning in C you are likely not actually getting the corrected output ARC is predicting.
> 
> 
> Your Surround speakers are also weak in bass. This may just be the characteristic of those speakers but check their hookup and function as well.
> 
> 
> You can test driver function by playing a CD with bass content and setting the Anthem to Stereo All mode which will send the same output everywhere. Since the crossovers are set high you won't get a lot of bass out of C and LS/RS, but you should still get enough to determine the woofer is firing (get up close to it).
> 
> 
> If any of these speakers has an internal crossover, disable it so that they will all operate as close to "full range" as they are capable.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The difference in bass response between LF and RF might be due to the difference in placement, but the first thing to check is any bass configuration settings on the speaker itself. Since they have an LFE input, they may have an internal crossover which is adjustable.
> 
> --Bob



I apologize, I did not clearly explain my speakers. The front left and right channels do have separate powered subs. Each speaker has it's own powered sub with a dedicated LFE input. There is also a volume adjustment knob for each subwoofer.


I think my center is ok, it just drops off significantly at about 120 Hz. See attached measurement from a professional review ( http://www.ultimateavmag.com/speaker...ch/index4.html ) - where the speaker has a fairly similar drop-off, if I am interpreting it correctly.


Please let me know how I should proceed.


Thanks


----------



## jayray

Having solved the thumping from my HD DVD player I now have thumping and a loud crackling sound when bitstreaming from my D2v. Will email Nick but this is frustrating









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/16202539
> 
> 
> I apologize, I did not clearly explain my speakers. The front left and right channels do have separate powered subs. Each speaker has it's own powered sub with a dedicated LFE input. There is also a volume adjustment knob for each subwoofer.
> 
> 
> I think my center is ok, it just drops off significantly at about 120 Hz. See attached measurement from a professional review ( http://www.ultimateavmag.com/speaker...ch/index4.html ) - where the speaker has a fairly similar drop-off, if I am interpreting it correctly.
> 
> 
> Please let me know how I should proceed.
> 
> 
> Thanks



The question is whether there is ALSO a connection between the speaker and the subwoofer on each side such that some content delivered on the feed to the speaker ends up going to the subwoofer or some content delivered on the feed to the subwoofer ends up going to the speaker. I.e., whether there is any internal crossover processing going on for the speaker/sub combo on each side.


If either of those is true then you don't really have independent subs. You have "combo" speakers with attached satellite subs. And in that case the you need to configure full range speakers on each side and no subwoofers.


If there is no internal or wired connection between the main speaker and the sub on its side then you do indeed have 4 independent speakers -- i.e., the two main speakers and the two completely standalone subs that just happened to be sold along with those two main speakers. And THAT'S the case where you would run the subwoofer wires to the LFE inputs of those subs.


I suspect you actually have "combo" speakers because the low frequency end of the red Measured curve for LF and RF looks suspiciously similar to the low frequency end of the subwoofer curve -- just as if low frequencies sent on the wire going to the main speaker part of LF and RF are actually being steered to the subwoofer on that side via an internal crossover in the combo speaker.


This would also explain the low bass problem you have in LF compared to RF. It just means you need to raise the internal volume knob of the attached, satellite subwoofer for LF to better balance with what the attached, satellite sub for RF is producing. Again, if I'm right, these aren't really separate subwoofers. They are the powered, low-end drivers for the main LF/RF speakers. Another way to describe this: If you removed wall power from those two subs, the bass output ARC Measures for LF and RF would vanish.


-----------------------------------------------------


I see what you are saying about the expected performance for your Center speaker. A better solution here would be to get a new Center that has the ability to go down closer to 80Hz.


By lowering the cutoff for Center as you have done for your Movie configuration, you are causing ARC to push the maximum amount of boost through your amp and into the bass driver of that speaker. Essentially ARC is doubling the volume it is trying to push through the woofer of Center. This is not a great answer as it puts strain on the speaker (and the amp) -- which is why ARC has a limit of how much boost it will apply in the first place. I suspect you are going to get more distortion from Center by doing that as well.


The Measurements from Center really do only support a crossover no lower than say 120Hz. I personally wouldn't recommend pushing it lower than that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16203344
> 
> 
> Having solved the thumping from my HD DVD player I now have thumping and a loud crackling sound when bitstreaming from my D2v. Will email Nick but this is frustrating
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I presume you mean bitstreaming *TO* the D2v.


What's your source, and what type of audio track are you bitstreaming?

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Just got back from the 2009 Montreal HiFi Show. Anthem was displaying the D2v with the new Anthem projector (rebadged JVC) with an SI screen being marketed by Anthem to be able to offer consumers a full HT package. Wish they would pick up Pioneer plasmas where they are leaving off.


----------



## dweltman

So I am having a strange problem getting my Harmony to work properly with my D2V. I have commands "Watch BluRay", "Watch DVD", "Listen to SACD", that should map to DVD1, DVD2, or DVD3 using the THX 8-5, 8-6, and 8-7 commands. However, when I turn everything with the Harmony, the D2V starts to boot up, the front screen on the D2V goes dark for a least 10 seconds, and by the time it finishes booting up it misses the THX command no matter how long a delay I put in. When I turn on the various component with their own remotes, the D2V does not go dark like that. I never had this problem with the D2, using basically the same Harmony settings. Any ideas?


Sorry if this is off-topic.


----------



## bluemark81

I just purchased an HQV HD benchmark test blu-ray. In going through the various tests, it would appear the Anthem passes everything except the film resolution loss test, if I understand the test. http://www.hqv.com/benchmark.cfm?CFI...TOKEN=66601881 According to the description:


"In this test, a horizontal pan over the standardized SMPTE test pattern was recorded at 24 frames per second. The 1080p24 source was then transferred to the 1080i60 broadcast standard. If the processor properly handles the signal, the boxes with the stripped horizontal lines will remain intact. If not, either the boxes will “strobe” between all black and all white, or you will see vertical bands on the sides of the box. Any “strobing” or banding constitutes a “fail”."


It appears as though I'm getting this "vertical banding" on the sides of the box they are referring to.


Is there a setting on the Anthem that should correct this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/16203628
> 
> 
> So I am having a strange problem getting my Harmony to work properly with my D2V. I have commands "Watch BluRay", "Watch DVD", "Listen to SACD", that should map to DVD1, DVD2, or DVD3 using the THX 8-5, 8-6, and 8-7 commands. However, when I turn everything with the Harmony, the D2V starts to boot up, the front screen on the D2V goes dark for a least 10 seconds, and by the time it finishes booting up it misses the THX command no matter how long a delay I put in. When I turn on the various component with their own remotes, the D2V does not go dark like that. I never had this problem with the D2, using basically the same Harmony settings. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Sorry if this is off-topic.



My D2v does the same thing. I've been assuming it is just its normal power up sequence as it boots up the DSP board -- which takes a while (longer than the original D2 or AVM 50). The D2v won't process the source selector commands until after that boots up.


In the Harmony setup, you can put in a power-on delay setting that will defer sending the source selector to the D2v (or any other commands to the D2v) until the specified delay after power on for the D2v. Last I looked, you could put in an arbitrarily long power-on delay.


So that ought to solve your immediate problem -- just put in a honking great power-on delay.


But are you saying your D2v boots up more quickly if you change the power-on order? I've not seen that.


By the way, as an immediate workaround, if you press the Help button on the Harmony after turning things on, the first thing it does is re-send the source selector commands.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16203819
> 
> 
> I just purchased an HQV HD benchmark test blu-ray. In going through the various tests, it would appear the Anthem passes everything except the film resolution loss test, if I understand the test. http://www.hqv.com/benchmark.cfm?CFI...TOKEN=66601881 According to the description:
> 
> 
> "In this test, a horizontal pan over the standardized SMPTE test pattern was recorded at 24 frames per second. The 1080p24 source was then transferred to the 1080i60 broadcast standard. If the processor properly handles the signal, the boxes with the stripped horizontal lines will remain intact. If not, either the boxes will “strobe” between all black and all white, or you will see vertical bands on the sides of the box. Any “strobing” or banding constitutes a “fail”."
> 
> 
> It appears as though I'm getting this "vertical banding" on the sides of the box they are referring to.
> 
> 
> Is there a setting on the Anthem that should correct this?



The HQV people sell their own video processing chips. I'm afraid this is one of the tests they have designed to try to trip up the competition.


I don't think you've got anything set incorrectly, nor do I think you've got anything to worry about from this result.


But it wouldn't hurt to email what you've spotted to Anthem tech support and see if they have any new response as to this particular test. They undoubtedly have the same disc.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16203856
> 
> 
> The HQV people sell their own video processing chips. I'm afraid this is one of the tests they have designed to try to trip up the competition.
> 
> 
> I don't think you've got anything set incorrectly, nor do I think you've got anything to worry about from this result.
> 
> 
> But it wouldn't hurt to email what you've spotted to Anthem tech support and see if they have any new response as to this particular test. They undoubtedly have the same disc.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Are you suggesting to just e-mail what I've described here? Anything more required?


----------



## "MIKEY"




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16197779
> 
> 
> Well the Movie configuration shown in the charts doesn't look bad at all, but why did you lower the cutoffs to 25Hz in the Music configuration?
> 
> 
> Your Surrounds in particular aren't Measuring nearly well enough down there to justify that.
> 
> 
> In addition, if you are going to lower the cutoffs like that, you should probably also check the Full Range box to turn off bass steering from those speakers to the subwoofer.
> 
> 
> If the problem you are hearing is with sources using the Music configuration, this may be the cause. You have asked ARC to do substantial additional correction at low frequency for Music configuration, and so it probably had to forego some work up at the highest frequencies.
> 
> 
> In the View menu, you can select to view the charts for your Music configuration.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If, on the other hand, you are hearing this problem with sources using the Movie configuration (i.e., the charts you posted), then there's no ready explanation from the charts. Even the UNcorrected curves up there are not bad.
> 
> 
> So go back to basics and check a couple things: Make sure you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON set for every source. Be sure to check each source.
> 
> 
> Also consider your mic placement. It is important to have the mic near seated ear height -- usually using the same height for each mic position. If you do your Measurements with the mic at, say, standing ear height, you may get harshness or "brilliance" even though the curves look good. The higher frequencies are very directional (speaker dispersion patterns have odd shapes up there) so it is important that ARC is hearing and correcting the same high frequency field that you will hear when seated.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:

Thanks for the feedback. I really don't have a good reason to lower the cutoffs to 25HZ. I've been adjusting my home theater set up, by trial & error after error..., for at least four years now until ARC came along with this forum. Attached are the latest music configurations that sound much better due to your keen observations.


I've trusted my ears to determine what sounds good to me, while incorporating Kinetics Noise Control acoustical room treatments with good speakers & electronics-Paradigm and Anthem for the most part.


ARC has simplified the set up process. Your, and other members of this forum, inputs has made a huge difference in how I have made adjustments to our home theater room.


Thanks once again for your tremendous support!

Attachment 138940 

Attachment 138941 

Attachment 138942


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16203866
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Are you suggesting to just e-mail what I've described here? Anything more required?



I think emailing what you have here would be fine. As I said, they are likely already aware of what that particular HQV HD test shows. Just ask them what their take is on that particular result -- what it really means as far as normal use of the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/16203890
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I really don't have a good reason to lower the cutoffs to 25HZ. I've been adjusting my home theater set up, by trial & error after error..., for at least four years now until ARC came along with this forum. Attached are the latest music configurations that sound much better due to your keen observations.
> 
> 
> I've trusted my ears to determine what sounds good to me, while incorporating Kinetics Noise Control acoustical room treatments with good speakers & electronice-Paradign and Anthem for the most part.
> 
> 
> ARC has simplified the set up process. Your, and other members of this forum, inputs has made a huge difference in how I have made adjustments to our home theater room.
> 
> 
> Thanks once again for your tremendous support!



Judging by how clean your Measured curves are, I'd say you did a pretty darned good job by ear before using ARC!


ARC found some room modes of course -- and corrected them. The results you have now should sound very good indeed!


Your surrounds are a bit weak in bass and also in the highest frequencies. For the highs, recheck how you have those surrounds pointed. If they are not mounted at seated ear height pay particular attention to the vertical pointing. If you can get a few dB more out of them up there by adjusting the pointing, ARC won't have to roll them off quite so much. At the bass end, that is likely just the nature of these speakers. It's not really a problem, but just something to keep in mind next time you are thinking about upgrading speakers.


Your subwoofer is doing exceptionally well, and should sound even better now that ARC has dealt with that one big room response mode.


I'm pleasantly surprised that ARC found as much Room Gain as it did. [I'm assuming, of course, that you didn't put in that multi-digit Room Gain value yourself.] Most of the charts we've seen from treated rooms show that they've really been flattened out more than I think is ideal.


All in all, I think you are in excellent shape with these results.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16203428
> 
> 
> I presume you mean bitstreaming *TO* the D2v.
> 
> 
> What's your source, and what type of audio track are you bitstreaming?
> 
> --Bob



It was from my XA2 hddvd player to my D2v bitstreaming TrueHD from Superman Returns.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16204238
> 
> 
> It was from my XA2 hddvd player to my D2v bitstreaming TrueHD from Superman Returns.
> 
> John



Is HDMI Bitstream of TrueHD from that player working OK with other discs? Have we got any other XA2 owners here who could report on that disc?


Did you try the usual tricks for forcing a new handshake?

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16203483
> 
> 
> Just got back from the 2009 Montreal HiFi Show. Anthem was displaying the D2v with the new Anthem projector (rebadged JVC) with an SI screen being marketed by Anthem to be able to offer consumers a full HT package. Wish they would pick up Pioneer plasmas where they are leaving off.



You beat me to it. Just got back from there too. Decent

picture from that projector. Nick wasn't there. The Paradigm Sub 25 wasn't there, apparently it's a beast. The D2V worked nicely, despite the annoying clip from Rush Hour 3.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/16204392
> 
> 
> You beat me to it. Just got back from there too. Decent
> 
> picture from that projector. Nick wasn't there. The Paradigm Sub 25 wasn't there, apparently it's a beast. The D2V worked nicely, despite the annoying clip from Rush Hour 3.



I too was hoping to see the Sub 25 and the new on-wall Signature series speakers. I missed the clip you are referring to, but I was not fond of the diamond-like reflections of the SI screen.


I tried to buy the D2v that they had there, but due to a 6 week back order they were apparently instructed not to. I also tried to buy the Oppo on display down stairs, but they also wre instructed not to. Oh well!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16204299
> 
> 
> Is HDMI Bitstream of TrueHD from that player working OK with other discs? Have we got any other XA2 owners here who could report on that disc?
> 
> 
> Did you try the usual tricks for forcing a new handshake?
> 
> --Bob



Other times with other discs I get audio dropouts bitstreaming. I will try switching sources.

I should mention this only happens when pausing or FF.


John


----------



## spiderv6

Anybody hearing anything about delivery dates for the back orders?


My dealer is now quoting April 17th but he was a little hesitatnt in that.


----------



## Warpdrv

spider, that would put it right in line with what they were stating from the get go...

The max delay as it would seem... I ordered on March 2nd, so that would put it at @ 45 days, but I guess we'll see what really happens...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16204299
> 
> 
> Is HDMI Bitstream of TrueHD from that player working OK with other discs? Have we got any other XA2 owners here who could report on that disc?
> 
> 
> Did you try the usual tricks for forcing a new handshake?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I will try another disc sometime today.

thanks,

John


----------



## jayray

I tried 3 other truehd discs with the same result.

John


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16205935
> 
> 
> Anybody hearing anything about delivery dates for the back orders?
> 
> 
> My dealer is now quoting April 17th but he was a little hesitatnt in that.



This is the info I got when I ordered a couple of weeks ago:

*The ETA for the D2v into Anthem right now is April 17, this does not

take into account how many are actually going to be available, vs., how many

are on BO at this time. You might make it in the loop, or it would be the

next shipment.*


So I am keeping my fingers crossed, but I wouldn't be surprised if it went to the next order cycle which would be who knows when.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16207027
> 
> 
> I tried 3 other truehd discs with the same result.
> 
> John



I wonder what's different about the XA2 HD-DVD player? I've had no such trouble Bitstreaming TrueHD from the Oppo BDP-83. The fact that your original thumping from it went away with a cable swap is also suspicious. The XA2 was one of the first HDMI V1.3 devices as I recall. It may be doing something peculiar.


On the other hand, the DSP code in the D2v is new enough that it probably still has some bugs.


Anybody else out there using an XA2 with a D2v or AVM 50v?

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16203832
> 
> 
> My D2v does the same thing. I've been assuming it is just its normal power up sequence as it boots up the DSP board -- which takes a while (longer than the original D2 or AVM 50). The D2v won't process the source selector commands until after that boots up.
> 
> 
> In the Harmony setup, you can put in a power-on delay setting that will defer sending the source selector to the D2v (or any other commands to the D2v) until the specified delay after power on for the D2v. Last I looked, you could put in an arbitrarily long power-on delay.
> 
> 
> So that ought to solve your immediate problem -- just put in a honking great power-on delay.
> 
> 
> But are you saying your D2v boots up more quickly if you change the power-on order? I've not seen that.
> 
> 
> By the way, as an immediate workaround, if you press the Help button on the Harmony after turning things on, the first thing it does is re-send the source selector commands.
> 
> --Bob



FWIW, with serial control, you don't need any delay. Yes, the D2v takes a while to totally turn on, but it appears to queue up, or just accept the serial commands right away.


I'm using a URC MX remote with an MSC-400, and sending only RS232 to the D2v. I send the power on immediately followed by the source change, and it always works flawlessly.


----------



## "MIKEY"




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16203975
> 
> 
> Judging by how clean your Measured curves are, I'd say you did a pretty darned good job by ear before using ARC!
> 
> 
> ARC found some room modes of course -- and corrected them. The results you have now should sound very good indeed!
> 
> 
> Your surrounds are a bit weak in bass and also in the highest frequencies. For the highs, recheck how you have those surrounds pointed. If they are not mounted at seated ear height pay particular attention to the vertical pointing. If you can get a few dB more out of them up there by adjusting the pointing, ARC won't have to roll them off quite so much. At the bass end, that is likely just the nature of these speakers. It's not really a problem, but just something to keep in mind next time you are thinking about upgrading speakers.
> 
> 
> Your subwoofer is doing exceptionally well, and should sound even better now that ARC has dealt with that one big room response mode.
> 
> 
> I'm pleasantly surprised that ARC found as much Room Gain as it did. [I'm assuming, of course, that you didn't put in that multi-digit Room Gain value yourself.] Most of the charts we've seen from treated rooms show that they've really been flattened out more than I think is ideal.
> 
> 
> All in all, I think you are in excellent shape with these results.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:

I'm using Paradigm signature ADP surrounds, mounted 8.5' from the center, on both sides, where the ARC mic is placed. They are about 2' above ear level. I could lower them, but am a little reluctant to do it right now. Any Recommendations?


Also, ARC set the multi-digit Room Gain-I'm not smart enough to do so.

Thanks again for your feedback!


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

any one rec. a source for this. Looks like monoprice only has up to 25ft highspeed hdmi. I need 50ft. Thoughts?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16210890
> 
> 
> any one rec. a source for this. Looks like monoprice only has up to 25ft highspeed hdmi. I need 50ft. Thoughts?



I use monoprice HDMI cables up to their 131-footer, and they've been working perfectly for months, up to 1080p/60. On the 50's, I haven't needed the repeaters, on the 75's, I need a repeater on one TV, not on the newer TV. The 131 comes with a built-in repeater.


Just make sure if you use a repeater to install it on the TV end, and in the right direction.


(HDMI cables are HDMI cables, it's the gauge and shielding that matters, the "rating" is just an indication if they paid for testing, nothing else. A 22 AWG HDMI cable is about as good as you're going to get anywhere, and at $1/foot, an amazing price.)


----------



## shawnwalters

Ok I have yet to do any listening to this version yet, but I set the crossover for the LCR to 25hz and also checked the full range box. One thing I wanted to ask about is ARC set room gain to something like 3.94 - is this normal?


These charts reflect linacoustic wrapped on side and rear walls from floor to ceiling, except the 4' feet or so by my tripole surrounds, front wall completely dead.


How do these charts look?


Thanks,

Shawn


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16210954
> 
> 
> Ok I have yet to do any listening to this version yet, but I set the crossover for the LCR to 25hz and also checked the full range box. One thing I wanted to ask about is ARC set room gain to something like 3.94 - is this normal?
> 
> 
> These charts reflect linacoustic wrapped on side and rear walls from floor to ceiling, except the 4' feet or so by my tripole surrounds, front wall completely dead.
> 
> 
> How do these charts look?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Shawn



It's weird that your high-end seems to be getting worse, and ARC isn't able to correct most of it. Are you doing anything else? Are you measuring differently, or did you change the direction of the speakers?


It's like something new and very reflective has been added.


Also, I wouldn't check the full-range on the fronts/center. That will remove your sub. I personally prefer the 25-cutover, without full range checked. It just sounds like fuller bass to me, with my sub fully active, and my fronts helping to fill things in. Not sure what the technical implications are, but it sounds better to my ears (and even my wife's, if she's not just humoring me) for movies, music, and regular TV.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16210988
> 
> 
> It's weird that your high-end seems to be getting worse, and ARC isn't able to correct most of it. Are you doing anything else? Are you measuring differently, or did you change the direction of the speakers?
> 
> 
> It's like something new and very reflective has been added.
> 
> 
> Also, I wouldn't check the full-range on the fronts/center. That will remove your sub. I personally prefer the 25-cutover, without full range checked. It just sounds like fuller bass to me, with my sub fully active, and my fronts helping to fill things in. Not sure what the technical implications are, but it sounds better to my ears (and even my wife's, if she's not just humoring me) for movies, music, and regular TV.



Ok I will remove the checkbox. Nothing new has been added or changed except for a bunch of mdf frames holding the panels. Again, these panels aren't wrapped in GOM yet, so I am not sure if the measurements will change once they are.



So are these latest charts better or worse than these previous ones with just 5' lin?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post16198055


----------



## shawnwalters

One more chart thrown into the mix. These were linacoustic 5' everywhere and then full height at roughly the first reflections:



















Are these better or worse?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16211072
> 
> 
> One more chart thrown into the mix. These were linacoustic 5' everywhere and then full height at roughly the first reflections:
> 
> 
> 
> Are these better or worse?



These look better to me than the last ones, but the ones from last week look better overall with ARC applied - but in all cases your high-end seems a little messy, and ARC has never been able to correct.


The 25-Hz thing is just my recommendation based on my ears - try out some options to see what you like best. I think prevailing wisdom says to take it out of the fronts and let the sub handle it, or the reverse, but not both. For me, both just sounds better, and I have more than enough power to drive it all (as do you).


However, since it looks like ARC is running out of resources to correct the high-end, you might try changing the crossover back to the default, and see what the calc look like (set to 20000). That might free up enough resources for ARC to correct the high-end.


But I'm still wondering how you could have that high-end peak wiith so much acoustic treatment everywhere?


(It's honestly not that bad - +5db - but it's uncorrected, and might sound a little bright when listening.)


----------



## AbMagFab

Anyone know the answer to this? I got a reponse from an acoustic treatment company (RealTraps), and he had this in his response:


> Quote:
> Though, its hard to tell what resolution the graphs were generated to show. If it's 3dB/octave or even 12dB/octave, then many of the narrower peaks and nulls will be averaged out, showing a flatter response.



What does that mean, and what's the answer to the resolution?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16211126
> 
> 
> Anyone know the answer to this? I got a reponse from an acoustic treatment company (RealTraps), and he had this in his response: What does that mean, and what's the answer to the resolution?[/size][/font][/font][/color]



I think he is asking about the frequency resolution of the response plots, is it 1/3d octave, or 1/12th octave or something else. The lower the resolution, the smoother the plot looks.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16211113
> 
> 
> These look better to me than the last ones, but the ones from last week look better overall with ARC applied - but in all cases your high-end seems a little messy, and ARC has never been able to correct.
> 
> 
> The 25-Hz thing is just my recommendation based on my ears - try out some options to see what you like best. I think prevailing wisdom says to take it out of the fronts and let the sub handle it, or the reverse, but not both. For me, both just sounds better, and I have more than enough power to drive it all (as do you).
> 
> 
> However, since it looks like ARC is running out of resources to correct the high-end, you might try changing the crossover back to the default, and see what the calc look like (set to 20000). That might free up enough resources for ARC to correct the high-end.
> 
> 
> But I'm still wondering how you could have that high-end peak wiith so much acoustic treatment everywhere?
> 
> 
> (It's honestly not that bad - +5db - but it's uncorrected, and might sound a little bright when listening.)



Thanks. Sorry for posting so many charts today, here are some more










These are new measurements in one straight line (4--3--1--2--5) instead of my normal method. I wanted to see if it affected anything. Anyway, the first set is with the cutoff for the LCR at 25hz, no box checked, and the second is 60hz (leaving it to default) for the LCR.


Looking at these charts, they seem worse than the previous ones right? The thing about this measuring method is I think #'s 4 and 5 are too close to the wall so it may be skewing the results. Ahh I quit










25hz


















60hz


----------



## Verbow

How much processing is too much processing?


I'm about to switch out by Dwin projector for a Marantz 11S2. As upgrade-itis continues, I'm considering the D2v for it's high quality reputation, ARC, decoding of new codecs, etc. However, I've read that video processing cannot be disabled if using HDMI. I've read of only one or two people using this combo in this whole thread, and another saying a dealer told him NOT to use the D2 video processing. I understand the D2v uses a different video processing chip.


Any D2v/11S2 users care to comment on their experience? Can video via HDMI be disabled or would I benefit from the additional processing?


Primary video source is a Pioneer BDP-FD09.


Thanks for your thoughts!


----------



## bluemark81

On the Anthem remote, there is a button named SETUP/SUB/LFE. What is the difference between the subwoofer level and the low frequency effect level?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16212252
> 
> 
> On the Anthem remote, there is a button named SETUP/SUB/LFE. What is the difference between the subwoofer level and the low frequency effect level?



Using this "temporary" setting to adjust the Subwoofer level affects all audio going to the subwoofer -- both the LFE input channel and bass steered to the subwoofer from the other speakers.


Adjusting the LFE level only affects the LFE portion of that. Bass steered to the subwoofer from the other speakers is not altered.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16211126
> 
> 
> Anyone know the answer to this? I got a reponse from an acoustic treatment company (RealTraps), and he had this in his response:
> 
> 
> What does that mean, and what's the answer to the resolution?



The question as you quoted it makes no sense. I've no idea what he is asking.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Verbow* /forum/post/16212064
> 
> 
> How much processing is too much processing?
> 
> 
> I'm about to switch out by Dwin projector for a Marantz 11S2. As upgrade-itis continues, I'm considering the D2v for it's high quality reputation, ARC, decoding of new codecs, etc. However, I've read that video processing cannot be disabled if using HDMI. I've read of only one or two people using this combo in this whole thread, and another saying a dealer told him NOT to use the D2 video processing. I understand the D2v uses a different video processing chip.
> 
> 
> Any D2v/11S2 users care to comment on their experience? Can video via HDMI be disabled or would I benefit from the additional processing?
> 
> 
> Primary video source is a Pioneer BDP-FD09.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your thoughts!



HDMI video in the D2v is always "processed". There is no way to bypass that. If the 1152 accepts its "native" resolution as a valid input resolution then what you do is set the D2v to output that. This leaves the 1152 with nothing to do as regards de-interlacing or scaling.


There are other video processing functions such as video level adjustment or gamma correction. You can choose to do those either in the D2v or in the 1152. The general rule of thumb is to do that in the display and only use the Anthem's adjustments if needed for additional fine tuning.


---------------------------------


Although there are not many 1152 owners posting here, there are plenty of folks posting here using displays with high end video processors -- the Pioneer Kuro owners for example. You don't want to do processing twice but if you have things set up right only one processor will find it has any work to do for each piece of the processing puzzle.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16212326
> 
> 
> Using this "temporary" setting to adjust the Subwoofer level affects all audio going to the subwoofer -- both the LFE input channel and bass steered to the subwoofer from the other speakers.
> 
> 
> Adjusting the LFE level only affects the LFE portion of that. Bass steered to the subwoofer from the other speakers is not altered.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I kind of assumed it was increasing the bass effect of the sub, but I still don't see what the difference is between increasing the sub level and the LFE level.


----------



## budeone

I bought some seasons of Dallas on dvd. It shows Dolby on the case but the only thing that shows up on AVM-50 display is Mono.


When I try to adjust it the only options are in Mono as well.


Why wont AVM-50 allow me to change it to something else?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16213481
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I kind of assumed it was increasing the bass effect of the sub, but I still don't see what the difference is between increasing the sub level and the LFE level.



Bob did a good job explaining it. Try this... think of the LFE adjustment only affecting the discrete channel coming out of your source, the .1 channel. The subwoofer adjustment will adjust the total output going to the sub which includes the just mentioned LFE signal and the redirected bass from your mains, center and surrounds.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16213481
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I kind of assumed it was increasing the bass effect of the sub, but I still don't see what the difference is between increasing the sub level and the LFE level.



LFE is a distinct input signal -- the ".1" in "5.1" or "7.1" input. It is sent to the subwoofer.


Meanwhile, bass is also steered from the main speaker channels to the subwoofer. Essentially the subwoofer takes over the job of producing the low end for those speakers so as to produce cleaner bass results from each of your other speakers.


In some content you may feel that too much LFE was mixed in when the track was created and you want to cut that down. The LFE adjustment lets you do that without ALSO reducing the low frequency end of the main speaker channels. The Subwoofer adjustment lowers everything at the same time -- steered bass and LFE together. NOTE: The LFE adjustment only allows you to reduce LFE, not boost it.

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

I'm still waiting on my D2V to be replaced with a new one as of March 18 when my RA number was generated.


It seems that Anthem has literally stopped building units until specific parts are available again; hopefully, by the end of this week. This is what Anthem advised me.


What is this all about? Is Paradigm/SonicFrontiers/Anthem on hard times? Are other companies on hard times? Is this just genuinely a case of specific parts/materials not readily available? In this economy, who can tell. We'll never know the real answer but I just want my D2V. The receiver experience is a real let down...even with a very decent Pioneer Elite SC07 unit.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/16213496
> 
> 
> I bought some seasons of Dallas on dvd. It shows Dolby on the case but the only thing that shows up on AVM-50 display is Mono.
> 
> 
> When I try to adjust it the only options are in Mono as well.
> 
> 
> Why wont AVM-50 allow me to change it to something else?



Some Dolby Digital tracks ARE Mono. True Mono tracks (only the Center channel included) don't give the surround mode processing anything to work with. Here's what the Manual says about it (Section 4.8.2):



> Quote:
> Single-channel soundtracks can be encoded two ways - using the center channel or with the same
> 
> signal into the left/right channels. The mode changes to Mono if the soundtrack uses only the center
> 
> channel - you can switch it to Mono-Academy or All Channel Mono afterwards.



Also keep in mind that some surround modes won't be available if you have THX post-processing turned on (because THX post-processing is already doing that sort of stuff). Press the THX button once and use Up/Down arrow to toggle it off as necessary.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/16214965
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting on my D2V to be replaced with a new one as of March 18 when my RA number was generated.
> 
> 
> It seems that Anthem has literally stopped building units until specific parts are available again; hopefully, by the end of this week. This is what Anthem advised me.
> 
> 
> What is this all about? Is Paradigm/SonicFrontiers/Anthem on hard times? Are other companies on hard times? Is this just genuinely a case of specific parts/materials not readily available? In this economy, who can tell. We'll never know the real answer but I just want my D2V. The receiver experience is a real let down...even with a very decent Pioneer Elite SC07 unit.



Actually we do know the real answer: Due to unexpectedly high early demand, even given the current economy, they ran out of a key part in the design and had to wait for a new batch to come in.


They have increased their own manufacturing capacity significantly this year, but parts availability is not entirely under their control.


We've had reports from folks visiting the factory of racks of these puppies awaiting arrival of that part. Final assembly and testing should go pretty quickly when the next parts shipment arrives.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters

Bob, what is your recommendation on the ideal measuring positions?


I have a rectangle room with the seats 3/4 of the way back, long ways. This puts the seat backs about 4' from the back wall. Would putting the microphone behind the seats be too close to the rear wall? And putting the microphone in front of the seats would be like 3-4 feet in front of seated position, so where is the better measuring position? And secondly is doing more than 5 positions better (than only 5)?


Thanks,

Shawn


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16215078
> 
> 
> Bob, what is your recommendation on the ideal measuring positions?
> 
> 
> I have a rectangle room with the seats 3/4 of the way back, long ways. This puts the seat backs about 4' from the back wall. Would putting the microphone behind the seats be too close to the rear wall? And putting the microphone in front of the seats would be like 3-4 feet in front of seated position, so where is the better measuring position? And secondly is doing more than 5 positions better (than only 5)?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Shawn



I suggest you get an inexpensive boom-arm mic stand and put the mic over the seats rather than front or back. This is the one I'm using:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...icrophone.html 


The mic clip from the Anthem supplied stand screws on to the end of the boom arm on this one.


But to answer your question, four feet is far enough away from the back wall assuming the rear speakers are not adjacent to the mic.


The positioning just above and behind the chair backs is probably better than in front since it is closer to where the ears will be when seated.


And 5 positions works well for most people. If you have a broad seating area -- more than one row of seats for example -- additional positions will work better. The idea is to sample the portion of the room containing seats with mic positions at least 24 inches apart from each other -- but not TOO far apart (what? Five feet?). I think it is best to not have all the positions in a straight line since then ARC won't see any variation forward/backward. I use 5 positions with the outer 2 angled in towards the screen. The middle three positions are in front of the seat back and the two outer positions are about equal with the seat from and outside the outer arm rests. Another 5 position configuration is a box -- the 4 corners and with mic #1 in the center. This could work well with 2 or 3 rows of seating.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters

Thank you very much Bob!


----------



## budeone

Thanks Bob


----------



## drhankz

Thanks Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16210921
> 
> 
> I use monoprice HDMI cables up to their 131-footer, and they've been working perfectly for months, up to 1080p/60. On the 50's, I haven't needed the repeaters, on the 75's, I need a repeater on one TV, not on the newer TV. The 131 comes with a built-in repeater.
> 
> 
> Just make sure if you use a repeater to install it on the TV end, and in the right direction.
> 
> 
> (HDMI cables are HDMI cables, it's the gauge and shielding that matters, the "rating" is just an indication if they paid for testing, nothing else. A 22 AWG HDMI cable is about as good as you're going to get anywhere, and at $1/foot, an amazing price.)



So stupid question. For future proofing should I get the 1080p rates "high speed, 1.3a " hdmi cable? If so, momoprice only offfers these in 25 feet max length. Or will their standard 1080p rated cable suffice- this does come in longer lengths as you mentioned.


Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16217018
> 
> 
> So stupid question. For future proofing should I get the 1080p rates "high speed, 1.3a " hdmi cable? If so, momoprice only offfers these in 25 feet max length. Or will their standard 1080p rated cable suffice- this does come in longer lengths as you mentioned.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I almost have to believe the 131 was a TYPO - I beleive 3 meters is the

longest HDMI cable that meets specifications without any active sources

in the line somewhere.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16217078
> 
> 
> I almost have to believe the 131 was a TYPO - I beleive 3 meters is the
> 
> longest HDMI cable that meets specifications without any active sources
> 
> in the line somewhere.



They do make a *100Ft Cable*


But they also Suggest using a *repeater with it.*


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16216440
> 
> 
> Thank you very much Bob!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/16216556
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16216839
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob



Thanks.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16217018
> 
> 
> So stupid question. For future proofing should I get the 1080p rates "high speed, 1.3a " hdmi cable? If so, momoprice only offfers these in 25 feet max length. Or will their standard 1080p rated cable suffice- this does come in longer lengths as you mentioned.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Again, I don't think the rating matters at all. Do a google search on this, but the rating just indicates they went through some standards body and maybe paid a fee.


For wire, it's all about gauge (thickness) and shielding. The 22AWG HDMI cables they offer are probably some of the best you can get.


IMO, there's no need to stick with the 1.3a certified cables, and I haven't, and I have no problems at all on any of my TV's, from 25-feet to 131-feet of non-1.3a HDMI cables, all from monoprice, all 22-24 AWG (a couple with extenders/repeaters).


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16217078
> 
> 
> I almost have to believe the 131 was a TYPO - I beleive 3 meters is the
> 
> longest HDMI cable that meets specifications without any active sources
> 
> in the line somewhere.



131-foot cable is not a typo, and I'm using it for one of my primary TV's. Never had an issue with it.


Link to 131-foot cable:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


In terms of a repeater/extender, I have multiple TV's using 50-foot and 75-foot without any repeaters. The specs are mostly nonsense when it comes to HDMI distribution lengths.


Custom installers hate to hear this stuff, I know, as they seem to have some emotional issue with monoprice. They want to sell $1000 30-foot cables, which is just unconscionable, IMO.

monoprice is as good as it seems to be, and you can be safe purchasing any of the HDMI cables from them, in any length, IMO.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16217504
> 
> 
> 131-foot cable is not a typo
> 
> 
> Link to 131-foot cable:
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2



I must ADMIT when I went to the MonoPrice page today

I MISSED the 131 Ft. Cable.


You are right in your MonoPrice Assessment of TOP QUALITY.


I buy from nowhere else. I have a new order due in from them

on Friday. They are ABSOLUTELY the BEST with unbeatable prices

and quality.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Getting an HDMI V1.3 certification for a cable -- particularly the later versions (HDMI V1.3a, b, and c) requires submitting samples to a test lab that hooks it up to a test rig so expensive that even big cable manufacturers don't want to buy one.


The problem is not so much the expense as the bottle-neck -- you queue up behind other companies trying to push product through the test labs.


Blue Jeans cable used to have a write up on their site describing the pain of all this.


The specs put limits on how different parts of the signal can degrade over the length of the cable. It's supposed to insure that the cables will work up to the maximum bandwidth (1080p with Deep Color and 8 channel high-bandwidth audio along with low bandwidth handshake and HDCP info) even given normal manufacturing variations. It's a response to the bad reputation HDMI got from some truly shoddy manufacturing of early HDMI cables. And some would say it is overkill.


I don't think it is overkill, but I do think it is helping some cable companies keep the price up artificially (all of which goes to ridiculous profit margins), and I think it gives customers a false sense of security because manufacturing variations undoubtedly exceed what the specs assume.


The thing to keep in mind is that cable companies are not putting all their production runs of certified cables, or even samples from such runs, through this same torture test. At best they are testing samples of cables using simpler tests they run themselves.


Cable companies rely on the fact that most customers will NOT return a faulty cable for a refund. They'll just buy another cable.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New Web Site Info Now Live for Anthem Statement D2v!*


Anthem has updated their web site with new pages describing the D2v:

http://statement.anthemav.com/ 


Note that the Statement D1 info is still available in what they are now calling the "Archives".


D2v software downloads now have their own page:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


As before, current firmware is V2.04. Current ARC software is V2.1.


The D2v operating Manual now also has its own page:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...al/D2v_OM.html 

*WARNING:* The version of Adobe Acrobat that Anthem is using to create this PDF has a bug in its handling of copy protection. This bug means that this file will crash the default PDF file reader application on Mac computers (Preview). Attempting to view the file using Safari browser on the Mac will also crash Safari. It also means the file won't be properly indexed by Spotlight on the Mac. You can view the file by downloading the PDF and then using the latest version of Adobe Reader for the Mac. Anthem is working on the problem with Adobe.


There is also a new "Comparison" PDF file that compares the AVM 50, the AVM 50v, and the Statement D2v:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P.../CompChart.pdf 


I'm not sure why the AVM 50 is still in there since I don't think it is being sold any more in North America. Perhaps it is still being sold internationally.


There is also a new data sheet with rather limited information on the "special order" versions such as the rack-mount version of the D2v:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...l_Versions.pdf 


Curiously, this sheet continues to refer to the D1. However the info is undoubtedly correct for the D2v as well.


There is a link to the Product Data Sheet for the D2v that yields a file dated today, but I think it is identical to the Data Sheet that was used at CES in January:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...ds/D2v_PDS.pdf 


These changes parallel changes that were already made on the Anthem AVM portion of the web site for the AVM 50v.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16214909
> 
> 
> LFE is a distinct input signal -- the ".1" in "5.1" or "7.1" input. It is sent to the subwoofer.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, bass is also steered from the main speaker channels to the subwoofer. Essentially the subwoofer takes over the job of producing the low end for those speakers so as to produce cleaner bass results from each of your other speakers.
> 
> 
> In some content you may feel that too much LFE was mixed in when the track was created and you want to cut that down. The LFE adjustment lets you do that without ALSO reducing the low frequency end of the main speaker channels. The Subwoofer adjustment lowers everything at the same time -- steered bass and LFE together. NOTE: The LFE adjustment only allows you to reduce LFE, not boost it.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Makes sense now. How does ARC adjust each of these or does it?


----------



## bluemark81

Anyone else have issues when switching sources? Often times, when I switch from Satellite to my PS3, the video signal goes whacky (scientific term) and I have to shut off the Anthem and then power it back on to get the video signal to engage. This seems to happen when I go from PS3 to Sat as well, but not as often. Is this the handshaking issue? Could a different cable make a difference?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16216440
> 
> 
> Thank you very much Bob!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/16216556
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16219919
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Makes sense now. How does ARC adjust each of these or does it?



Steered bass is adjusted through the crossovers and of course through the room correction parameters for both the main speakers and the sub.


LFE is handled specially so that you don't lose higher LFE frequencies even if a low crossover is in effect for bass steering.


It's all pretty sophisticated.


In any event, the "temporary" level adjustments will still "do the right thing" if you really want to play with them.


Personally, except when looking for bugs I never use them. If the dynamics are too much for me in a movie track I turn down the main volume rather than fiddling with the balance of the mix using things like the LFE adjustment.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16220136
> 
> 
> Anyone else have issues when switching sources? Often times, when I switch from Satellite to my PS3, the video signal goes whacky (scientific term) and I have to shut off the Anthem and then power it back on to get the video signal to engage. This seems to happen when I go from PS3 to Sat as well, but not as often. Is this the handshaking issue? Could a different cable make a difference?



Yes, and yes.


Rather than power-cycling, try just forcing a new handshake. The easiest way to do this is to temporarily switch the Anthem to a different input and back.


Keep in mind that the handshake happens on both sides of the Anthem whenever it happens. So if you are seeing this a lot with different sources the problem could be in the cable to your display rather than the cable from any given source.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16220225
> 
> 
> Yes, and yes.
> 
> 
> Rather than power-cycling, try just forcing a new handshake. The easiest way to do this is to temporarily switch the Anthem to a different input and back.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the handshake happens on both sides of the Anthem whenever it happens. So if you are seeing this a lot with different sources the problem could be in the cable to your display rather than the cable from any given source.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I have tried switching inputs. Sometimes this works and sometimes not, whereas a power cycle always seems to do the trick so I've gotten in the habit of doing that. Will this always be an issue with hdmi?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16220319
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I have tried switching inputs. Sometimes this works and sometimes not, whereas a power cycle always seems to do the trick so I've gotten in the habit of doing that. Will this always be an issue with hdmi?



I don't have an answer for that. Most HDMI issues are due to problems in the source devices or in cabling. That said, Anthem continues to work on improving the robustness of their HDMI stuff.

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16217923
> 
> *New Web Site Info Now Live for Anthem Statement D2v!*
> 
> 
> Note that the Statement D1 info is still available in what they are now calling the "Archives".
> 
> 
> --Bob



So I've now been relegated to an archive


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16221604
> 
> 
> So I've now been relegated to an archive



Think of it as being "Museum Quality"!










-----------------------------------------------------


It's worse for the AVM folks. The AVM 20 is in an "archive" that includes specifications for the AVM 20 v2, but at the moment the AVM 30, AVM 40, and even the original AVM 50 have almost vanished from the web site. To even find them on the downloads page you need to use the link for "Discontinued Products"!

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

i just ordered up the IR2BTci ir - bluetooh adaptor for my PS3 integration into my system...i.e. the D2. Says it should control everthing inlcuding on/off.


Bob, I think you may have the same? Can anyone comment on this. FYI this is the latest replacement of the IR2BT.


-bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16223677
> 
> 
> i just ordered up the IR2BTci ir - bluetooh adaptor for my PS3 integration into my system...i.e. the D2. Says it should control everthing inlcuding on/off.
> 
> 
> Bob, I think you may have the same? Can anyone comment on this. FYI this is the latest replacement of the IR2BT.
> 
> 
> -bob



I'm not sure what the CI version adds but I have the original version and it works great.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The ci version replaced the original IR2BT (at a higher price that has been a real sticking point for many). It adds a number of things including support for firmware updates by owners.


It does everything the original IR2BT did, and yes it works.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New D2v Problem: 2.0 LPCM Input -> PLIIx Movie -> Yields Only L/R/Sub Speaker Output*


I've found a repeatable problem where 2.0 HDMI LPCM 48KHz input, processed by PLIIx Movie for a 5.1 speaker configuration, only results in output to the L/R and Sub speakers.


So far the easiest way I've found to reproduce this is to switch inputs from my PS3 (7.1 HDMI LPCM 48KHz input) to a source generating 2.0 HDMI LPCM 48KHz input -- as for example the Oppo BDP-83 player set to HDMI LPCM output and playing an SD-DVD disc with a DD2.0 audio track -- and with Mode Preset for that Source set to use PLIIx Movie for 2.0 audio input.


You can tell this is happening by pressing Select repeatedly until you see the display of active speakers for output. Only L, R, and Sub will be shown.


So far the easiest workaround I've found when this happens is to press Mode on the D2v remote and then use Up/Down arrow to switch away from PLIIx Movie mode and back again. After which the Select display will show all the proper speakers active.


This is not just an info display problem. The other speakers (Center and Surrounds) really are getting no audio when this happens.


Anthem has been alerted.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns

Need Help:


I will be getting a front projector soon and was planning on connecting the HDMI out to it. I was then going to connect Component out from my AVM 50 to my display (Sony 60" XBR 1), so that I could watch it whenever I didn't want to use the projector. All my source devices (cable box, Oppo, Panny Bluray, and HD-DVD player) are connected to AVM 50 with HDMI. I connected a component cable from my TV to the Component out of the AVM to test this out. I went into source setup in each of the inputs and set it to use video output configuration 1. I then went into video output configuration 1 and set the preferred setting to component. After doing this, I get audio, but no video. My OSD will work however. Will my AVM 50 not convert HDMI video to component video? Am I doing something wrong or should I go about this another way?


Any advice is appreciated, thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/16225022
> 
> 
> Need Help:
> 
> 
> I will be getting a front projector soon and was planning on connecting the HDMI out to it. I was then going to connect Component out from my AVM 50 to my display (Sony 60" XBR 1), so that I could watch it whenever I didn't want to use the projector. All my source devices (cable box, Oppo, Panny Bluray, and HD-DVD player) are connected to AVM 50 with HDMI. I connected a component cable from my TV to the Component out of the AVM to test this out. I went into source setup in each of the inputs and set it to use video output configuration 1. I then went into video output configuration 1 and set the preferred setting to component. After doing this, I get audio, but no video. My OSD will work however. Will my AVM 50 not convert HDMI video to component video? Am I doing something wrong or should I go about this another way?
> 
> 
> Any advice is appreciated, thanks.



Copy Protection on HDMI prohibits conversion of virtually all interesting HDMI content to Component video output.


See Section 2.1 of the Manual.


Some sources offer Component and HDMI outputs which are live at the same time. For those sources you can hook up separate Component cables to the Anthem. In the Source Setup for the Source, send the HDMI input to the Scaler but also specify which Component video input jacks you have connected. Then set Zone 2 to use Main Path UNPROCESSED video. When you select the source on the Main Path, the HDMI input will be processed and sent to the HDMI output of the Anthem. Meanwhile the Component video input will be sent to the Zone 2 Component output as unprocessed video ("pass through" of whatever is coming in as the component input).

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns

So basically, I'll need to connect all my sources to the AVM 50 with component cables in order to use both the HDMI and Component outputs?


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

This week I am gettng the jvc rs20, Panamorph u480 and a new 2.40: 1 widescreen.


Very Excited!


I plan on using the D2 to do the processing when in widescreen mode. Can anyone tell me what you set the D2 for when viewing 2.4 and 2.35 :1 movies when combined with the Panamorph lens? The panamorph will me on a motrized sled and the screen will mask from 16:9 to 2.40:1.


Thanks a ton.


-Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We've had several reports here of folks having problems getting the Anthem to automatically generate pillar box bars when viewing 4:3 content. Selecting Video Source Adjust > Scale Out > Pillar Box properly generates pillar box bars for 4:3 video input, but it *ALSO* generates them for 16:9 video input, making 16:9 stuff appear squeezed.


Selecting Anamorphic shows 16:9 correctly, but doesn't add pillar box bars for 4:3 content so that 4:3 content appears stretched.


I.e., you can get the correct stuff by making a manual change here but you can't get it to switch automatically.


----------------------------


I just had an email exchange with Nick at Anthem and confirmed that the automatic switching here has been disabled in at least the V2.04 firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v. I'm not sure what its status is for the V1.33 firmware for the D2 and AVM 50.


This was disabled due to problems they were having with some sources devices that did not flag their video output correctly (i.e., identified 4:3 as 16:9 or vice versa). This was particularly a problem for devices sending HD video to the Anthem. I.e., the source itself was seeing 4:3 content (as for example SD "extras" content on Blu-Ray discs), and adding its own pillar boxes, but was then flagging the output as still being 4:3 when in fact, with the addition of these pillar boxes, it was now really 16:9. And so the Anthem added yet ANOTHER set of pillar box bars making the content appear to be squeezed between double-wide pillar box bars.


I believe Anthem's plan now is to provide an automatic switching function that is limited to SD video input as well as a manual setting that will work with either SD or HD input. I'm not sure whether this will make it into the next firmware release.


This would then be used in conjunction with automatic pillar box bar addition in HD sources themselves. I.e., you let sources that are sending HD resolution to the Anthem do their own pillar boxing, and you set sources that are sending SD resolution to the anthem to leave the 480i content alone and let the Anthem do the automatic pillar boxing.


[The reason you want to do that for SD resolution is that pillar boxes chew up some of the pixels on each line and if you add them at 480i or 480p that reduces horizontal resolution. Letting the Anthem do it doesn't have that problem because the Anthem does it after scaling up to the higher resolution used for output to your display, so there are plenty of pixels in each line to hold both the black pillar box pixels and the original 480i content. This is also why it is OK to let the source do the automatic pillar boxing for sources that are sending HD video to the Anthem.]


For now, you will need to have the source do the automatic pillar boxing for everything or make the manual change as necessary in the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/16225185
> 
> 
> So basically, I'll need to connect all my sources to the AVM 50 with component cables in order to use both the HDMI and Component outputs?



For sources that don't have HDMI and Component output live at the same time you will need to use Component from the source (and Optical/Coax digital audio cabling).


For sources that DO have HDMI and Component output live at the same time, hook up both HDMI and Component from the source and set things up as I described. The HDMI can carry the audio for both and the video for your HDMI display.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16225281
> 
> 
> This week I am gettng the jvc rs20, Panamorph u480 and a new 2.40: 1 widescreen.
> 
> 
> Very Excited!
> 
> 
> I plan on using the D2 to do the processing when in widescreen mode. Can anyone tell me what you set the D2 for when viewing 2.4 and 2.35 :1 movies when combined with the Panamorph lens? The panamorph will me on a motrized sled and the screen will mask from 16:9 to 2.40:1.
> 
> 
> Thanks a ton.
> 
> 
> -Bob



Check out the "Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling" post links collected in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16225306
> 
> 
> We've had several reports here of folks having problems getting the Anthem to automatically generate pillar box bars when viewing 4:3 content. Selecting Video Source Adjust > Scale Out > Pillar Box properly generates pillar box bars for 4:3 video input, but it *ALSO* generates them for 16:9 video input, making 16:9 stuff appear squeezed.
> 
> 
> Selecting Anamorphic shows 16:9 correctly, but doesn't add pillar box bars for 4:3 content so that 4:3 content appears stretched.
> 
> 
> I.e., you can get the correct stuff by making a manual change here but you can't get it to switch automatically.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------
> 
> 
> I just had an email exchange with Nick at Anthem and confirmed that the automatic switching here has been disabled in at least the V2.04 firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v. I'm not sure what its status is for the V1.33 firmware for the D2 and AVM 50.
> 
> 
> This was disabled due to problems they were having with some sources devices that did not flag their video output correctly (i.e., identified 4:3 as 16:9 or vice versa). This was particularly a problem for devices sending HD video to the Anthem. I.e., the source itself was seeing 4:3 content (as for example SD "extras" content on Blu-Ray discs), and adding its own pillar boxes, but was then flagging the output as still being 4:3 when in fact, with the addition of these pillar boxes, it was now really 16:9. And so the Anthem added yet ANOTHER set of pillar box bars making the content appear to be squeezed between double-wide pillar box bars.
> 
> 
> I believe Anthem's plan now is to provide an automatic switching function that is limited to SD video input as well as a manual setting that will work with either SD or HD input. I'm not sure whether this will make it into the next firmware release.
> 
> 
> This would then be used in conjunction with automatic pillar box bar addition in HD sources themselves. I.e., you let sources that are sending HD resolution to the Anthem do their own pillar boxing, and you set sources that are sending SD resolution to the anthem to leave the 480i content alone and let the Anthem do the automatic pillar boxing.
> 
> 
> [The reason you want to do that for SD resolution is that pillar boxes chew up some of the pixels on each line and if you add them at 480i or 480p that reduces horizontal resolution. Letting the Anthem do it doesn't have that problem because the Anthem does it after scaling up to the higher resolution used for output to your display, so there are plenty of pixels in each line to hold both the black pillar box pixels and the original 480i content. This is also why it is OK to let the source do the automatic pillar boxing for sources that are sending HD video to the Anthem.]
> 
> 
> For now, you will need to have the source do the automatic pillar boxing for everything or make the manual change as necessary in the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



I have 2.4 on my D2v, and it properly pillars 4x3 content. I have the D2v set to upconvert everything to 1080/60p, and my main SD source device is a Tivo S3 set to Native, with 4x3 content sent Full (i.e. the Tivo isn't adding pillars).


There must be some subset of folks affected by this? It's not totally disabled as you described above, at least not for 100% HDMI setups.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16225537
> 
> 
> I have 2.4 on my D2v, and it properly pillars 4x3 content. I have the D2v set to upconvert everything to 1080/60p, and my main SD source device is a Tivo S3 set to Native, with 4x3 content sent Full (i.e. the Tivo isn't adding pillars).
> 
> 
> There must be some subset of folks affected by this? It's not totally disabled as you described above, at least not for 100% HDMI setups.



Go into Setup > Video Out and temporarily change LETTERBOX to something other than Black.


If the color of the pillar box bars changes then the D2v is adding them. If the color of the pillar box bars DOESN'T change then either the 4:3 content you are viewing has had pillar box bars added at the source (e.g., 4:3 content viewed while watching 1080i HD channels), or they are being added in the set top box.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16225321
> 
> 
> For sources that don't have HDMI and Component output live at the same time you will need to use Component from the source (and Optical/Coax digital audio cabling).
> 
> 
> For sources that DO have HDMI and Component output live at the same time, hook up both HDMI and Component from the source and set things up as I described. The HDMI can carry the audio for both and the video for your HDMI display.
> 
> --Bob



Ok Bob, I'll give that a try. Thanks. Do you think getting some sort of HDMI switcher be easier?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/16225651
> 
> 
> Ok Bob, I'll give that a try. Thanks. Do you think getting some sort of HDMI switcher be easier?



Any product that converts copy protected HDMI to Component HD video is operating in violation of the licensing restrictions. There are some products out there that do this, but I don't endorse any of them.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bob pariseau* /forum/post/16225634
> 
> 
> go into setup > video out and temporarily change letterbox to something other than black.
> 
> 
> If the color of the pillar box bars changes then the d2v is adding them. If the color of the pillar box bars doesn't change then either the 4:3 content you are viewing has had pillar box bars added at the source (e.g., 4:3 content viewed while watching 1080i hd channels), or they are being added in the set top box.
> 
> --bob



Confirmed, the color of the pillar bars changes.


I have it set to pillar in the OSD menu as well, if that matters.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16226515
> 
> 
> Confirmed, the color of the pillar bars changes.
> 
> 
> I have it set to pillar in the OSD menu as well, if that matters.



And when you play 16:9 HD channels you use that SAME source input definition (e.g., TV1) and the pillar box bars go away?


Are you using HDMI or Component video input?


OK, now I need to get back to Nick.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Hmmm, what MAY be happening is that "Pillar Box" is ALWAYS adding the bars for 480i/480p video input but NEVER adding the bars for 720p/1080i/1080p video input. That would explain what you are seeing even though it obviously isn't working for 16:9 content from SD-DVDs at 480i/480p.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters

Ok my latest graphs. All walls are now acoustically treated from floor to ceiling with linacoustic, wrapped in GOM and installed.


Max eq 20k, LCR - 25hz no box checked



















How do these look? I can tell from the peaks it looks improved no?


Anything I should concentrate on or can I call it a victory?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "SetupEditor D2v-AVM50v" V2.00c Utility Appears on Password Protected Download Page!*


The SetupEditor utility program has finally been resurrected as version V2.00c for the D2v and AVM 50v only.


SetupEditor, in the past, was a utility program that let you view and alter the Setup menu settings from a PC. You could also use it to save and restore Setup menu settings via a PC file.


SetupEditor didn't keep up with the changes in the Setup menu as the firmware evolved and gradually became more or less obsolete. Eventually it was only useful for backing up (but not viewing or changing) those settings. You could actually get yourself into trouble if you tried to view the settings.


Recent versions of the ARC install kit have included a new SettingsBackup utility that took over the role of saving and restoring Setup menu settings via a PC file.


But it now looks like SetupEditor is coming back to life -- just in time for Easter!


Although there is a text file with the utility program, it contains just the release notes for the V2.04 firmware (which was also removed from the password protected download page today), so I've got no information on what's supposed to work or not work in this new utility.


At the moment, I don't intend to try it myself until we learn more. It is even possible it is intended for use with the next version of the unit firmware -- perhaps the version with the Dolby Volume feature added.


As always, folks who decide to try "test" software like this should be aware that it is not finished and may come with some unpleasant surprises.


Be sure you have a good backup of your Setup menu settings using the SettingsBackup utility (found in the Utilities folder of the ARC V2.1 install kit) "just in case".


NOTE: Do not confuse SetupEditor or SettingsBackup with the Live Video Settings Editor utility (LVSE). LVSE is used for viewing, changing "on the fly" -- i.e., while viewing real content -- and backing up / restoring settings in the Video Source Adjust menu.

--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16226885
> 
> 
> Ok my latest graphs. All walls are now acoustically treated from floor to ceiling with linacoustic, wrapped in GOM and installed.
> 
> 
> Max eq 20k, LCR - 25hz no box checked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do these look? I can tell from the peaks it looks improved no?
> 
> 
> Anything I should concentrate on or can I call it a victory?



Hi Shawn,


VITORY! Indeed.










Congratulations!


Bob


----------



## Murat

Hi,


I've received my D2v couple days ago and still trying to set it up properly







I have some very novice questions regarding the setup of the 2 subwoofers. I have read many of the useful posts linked in the first page but still have some questions.


- What kind of a test signal (pink noise) is used for Phase and Polarity settings? I have bunch of test and setup discs (including DVE) with so many types of test signals and pink noises. But which one sends a signal just to the subs and Left Front channel??

I'd appreciate if you could recommend a good test disc and the correct track on it


- I'm using 2 JL Audio subs located just rear of the center points of the opposing side walls. First one is fed directly from D2v and runs as the Master and the second one is connected to the Master sub and runs as a Slave. The slave will automatically have the same volume, crossover, and all other signal processing set on on the Master. Since both subs with identical settings are about the same distance to the main listening position, will this be a problem with ARC?


- Lastly, should I make the Phase and Polarity adjustments on the D2v or the subs?


Thank you...


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/16227000
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I've received my D2v couple days ago and still trying to set it up properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have some very novice questions regarding the setup of the 2 subwoofers. I have read many of the useful posts linked in the first page but still have some questions.
> 
> 
> - What kind of a test signal (pink noise) is used for Phase and Polarity settings? I have bunch of test and setup discs (including DVE) with so many types of test signals and pink noises. But which one sends a signal just to the subs and Left Front channel??
> 
> I'd appreciate if you could recommend a good test disc and the correct track on it
> 
> 
> - I'm using 2 JL Audio subs located just rear of the center points of the opposing side walls. First one is fed directly from D2v and runs as the Master and the second one is connected to the Master sub and runs as a Slave. The slave will automatically have the same volume, crossover, and all other signal processing set on on the Master. Since both subs with identical settings are about the same distance to the main listening position, will this be a problem with ARC?
> 
> 
> - Lastly, should I make the Phase and Polarity adjustments on the D2v or the subs?
> 
> 
> Thank you...



Hi,


Phase or Polarity should be set at 0 degree on the back of your two subwoofers.

ARC1 will take care of the rest. No need for a test disc.


Bob #2


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/16227000
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I've received my D2v couple days ago and still trying to set it up properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have some very novice questions regarding the setup of the 2 subwoofers. I have read many of the useful posts linked in the first page but still have some questions.
> 
> 
> - What kind of a test signal (pink noise) is used for Phase and Polarity settings? I have bunch of test and setup discs (including DVE) with so many types of test signals and pink noises. But which one sends a signal just to the subs and Left Front channel??
> 
> I'd appreciate if you could recommend a good test disc and the correct track on it
> 
> 
> - I'm using 2 JL Audio subs located just rear of the center points of the opposing side walls. First one is fed directly from D2v and runs as the Master and the second one is connected to the Master sub and runs as a Slave. The slave will automatically have the same volume, crossover, and all other signal processing set on on the Master. Since both subs with identical settings are about the same distance to the main listening position, will this be a problem with ARC?
> 
> 
> - Lastly, should I make the Phase and Polarity adjustments on the D2v or the subs?
> 
> 
> Thank you...



Since you've got two subs you will need to make the Phase/Polarity adjustments on each sub. The D2v's sub outputs send out the same signal. So any change you make to Phase/Polarity in the D2v will go out to both subs and it is not likely you really want the same adjustment for each sub.


---------------------------------------


The various calibration discs typically have a Subwoofer Phase test tone. That's the one you want. What it does is send a signal to the Left Front speaker (only) that happens to contain bass both above and below the typical crossover frequencies. This is also called Pink Noise as it is noise that is mostly in the low mid-range and bass frequencies (White Noise also includes higher frequencies). You play that with a typical "small" speaker configuration for the LF speaker and the D2v will steer the lower frequencies of that left channel input to the subwoofer.


And so, in the vicinity of the crossover frequency, the same content is coming out of BOTH the subwoofer and LF. And that's what you want as you are looking to adjust Phase/Polarity to minimize cancellation whenever the sub is playing the same content as the main speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16227029
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Phase or Polarity should be set at 0 degree on the back of your two subwoofers.
> 
> ARC1 will take care of the rest. No need for a test disc.
> 
> 
> Bob #2



Sorry, no. This is not correct.


Subwoofer Phase and Polarity must be set manually even if you are using ARC.


ARC only listens to one speaker at a time when it takes its Measurements, so there is no way it can adjust subwoofer Phase or Polarity for you.


If you have only one subwoofer, you can adjust Phase/Polarity either before or after doing your ARC setup. Things will just sound better once you get it right.


If you have more than one subwoofer, then you must adjust Phase/Polarity for each of them *BEFORE* doing ARC Measurement since ARC will hear them as a set. What you do is adjust each of them individually to be in proper phase with the Left Front speaker -- which also means they are in proper phase with each other.

--Bob


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16227067
> 
> 
> Sorry, no. This is not correct.
> 
> 
> Subwoofer Phase and Polarity must be set manually even if you are using ARC.
> 
> 
> ARC only listens to one speaker at a time when it takes its Measurements, so there is no way it can adjust Phase or Polarity for you.
> 
> 
> If you have only one subwoofer, you can adjust Phase/Polarity either before or after doing your ARC setup. Things will just sound better once you get it right.
> 
> 
> If you have more than one subwoofer, then you must adjust Phase/Polarity for each of them *BEFORE* doing ARC Measurement since ARC will hear them as a set. What you do is adjust each of them individually to be in proper phase with the Left Front speaker -- which also means they are in proper phase with each other.
> 
> --Bob



Ok Bob, I did not realise that ARC does not take care of the phase.

But I know it is the proper way to adjust the phase on your 2 or 3 or 4 subs at the same phase's position, relative to each other. That's my strong opinion after many researchs.

If you disagree, fine, it's your own opinion, and I won't argue.


As for the question of this gentleman, he is in fact using two subs.

And as for test disc, I don't use any, I use my ears to adjust the proper phase.


Regards,


Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16226885
> 
> 
> Ok my latest graphs. All walls are now acoustically treated from floor to ceiling with linacoustic, wrapped in GOM and installed.
> 
> 
> Max eq 20k, LCR - 25hz no box checked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do these look? I can tell from the peaks it looks improved no?
> 
> 
> Anything I should concentrate on or can I call it a victory?



One of the best curves tha I have seen! Especially comparing from the original curve.


It's just the dip at 240hz but its not very steep and I would not worry about it. Maybe thre port tuning of the sub to get more infrasonic signal.


Victory indeed.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16226997
> 
> 
> Hi Shawn,
> 
> 
> VITORY! Indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congratulations!
> 
> 
> Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/16227190
> 
> 
> One of the best curves tha I have seen! Especially comparing from the original curve.
> 
> 
> It's just the dip at 240hz but its not very steep and I would not worry about it. Maybe thre port tuning of the sub to get more infrasonic signal.
> 
> 
> Victory indeed.



Whew! Thank you gentlemen.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16226834
> 
> 
> Hmmm, what MAY be happening is that "Pillar Box" is ALWAYS adding the bars for 480i/480p video input but NEVER adding the bars for 720p/1080i/1080p video input. That would explain what you are seeing even though it obviously isn't working for 16:9 content from SD-DVDs at 480i/480p.
> 
> --Bob




Hmm... I'll test that with some SD-DVD's at 480i/p. Or I'll just set my Tivo to do 480i/p for everything.


----------



## Murat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16227043
> 
> 
> 
> You play that with a typical "small" speaker configuration for the LF speaker and the D2v will steer the lower frequencies of that left channel input to the subwoofer.
> 
> --Bob



Thank You very much Bob,


I'm running LR speakers as full range speaker as they are really Full Range. So for this phase/polarity adjustment you say I should change them as Small speakers in the D2v spekare configuration menu. After I set the Phase/Polarity, I will naturally change them back to Large/Full Range. Do you think this will be a problem with the settings and when I run ARC afterwards will this mess up the its readings?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/16229188
> 
> 
> Thank You very much Bob,
> 
> 
> I'm running LR speakers as full range speaker as they are really Full Range. So for this phase/polarity adjustment you say I should change them as Small speakers in the D2v spekare configuration menu. After I set the Phase/Polarity, I will naturally change them back to Large/Full Range. Do you think this will be a problem with the settings and when I run ARC afterwards will this mess up the its readings?



No that won't be a problem.


ARC sets up a configuration using the "advanced" settings which allow different crossovers for different speakers -- rather like a configurable set of "small" speakers. If you tell ARC to use any of the speakers as "full range" then it will turn off bass steering from those speakers.


So in that case you will need to change to "small" temporarily as the prior ARC setup won't actually steer anything to the subwoofer. Just change back when you are done.


Again, since you are using more than one subwoofer, you will need to redo ARC Measurements after adjusting phase for both of them since ARC will hear them as a set. And of course the Upload that results from that will reset the speaker configuration the way ARC likes it anyway.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab

Dumb question - is the 2.4:1 letterboxing on most BDs anamorphic, or are the black bars actually encoded on the disc (like old-school DVD's)?


I know the encoding is a lot better now, so we're not really losing effective resolution if the black bars are part of the image, but I'm thinking about upgrading to a 2.4:1 screen, and this question popped into my head.


(I also know the D2v can custom crop anything, and I can put an anamorphic lens on my VW60, but I'd still like to know this!)


Thanks,

Mark


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16232383
> 
> 
> Dumb question - is the 2.4:1 letterboxing on most BDs anamorphic, or are the black bars actually encoded on the disc (like old-school DVD's)?
> 
> 
> I know the encoding is a lot better now, so we're not really losing effective resolution if the black bars are part of the image, but I'm thinking about upgrading to a 2.4:1 screen, and this question popped into my head.
> 
> 
> (I also know the D2v can custom crop anything, and I can put an anamorphic lens on my VW60, but I'd still like to know this!)
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark



Hi Mark,


There is no dumb question, only dumb answer by dumb people.


Anamorphic is only for Standard DVDs.

There is no anamorphic process on Blu-Rays.


Blu-Ray is at 1080p, full resolution, pixel for pixel. (1920 x 1080).


The black bars that are still remaining are created by your display, because it have a different aspect ratio.

Getting a new display by adding an extra lens to fully display the 2.40:1 aspect ratio will get rid of those black bars and get you a truer picture as intended by the film maker. (Well by fuller displaying.)


For a thorough explanation on this, check "Home Theater" web site at www.hometheatermag.com and look for the October 2008 issue, volume 15 no.10.

On page 50 of that issue, called "Beating the Black Bars" by Thomas J. Norton.

It is in their web site, it will give you all informations that you are requiring.

It is an excellent article, you'll love it.


Cheers,


Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16232541
> 
> 
> There is no anamorphic process on Blu-Rays.





> Quote:
> The black bars that are still remaining are created by your display, because it have a different aspect ratio.



Those two statements are contradictory, aren't they?


I mean, isn't it either:


1) Anamorphic (e.g. the black bars are added by the source device based on the configuration of your display); or


2) Black bars encoded in the video


Right?


(And I don't think the display ever adds black bars or pillars under any circumstances, it's the player/source device, based on the configuration.)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

LordOftheRings stated it correctly. The distinction between Anamorphic and Letter-boxed content on disc is only for SD-DVD. Anamorphic doesn't mean "no letter box bars". Anamorphic means "non-square pixels".


A little background: SD-DVD was a transitional format -- launched when 16:9 "wide screen" TVs were just getting started.


So what they did was specify an "intermediate" pixel count for the data on the SD-DVD discs. Whether you are watching a 16:9 anamorphic SD-DVD movie or a 4:3 SD-DVD of an old movie or a TV show, the data coming off the disc for each frame is 720x480 pixels.


If you do the math 720/480 = 1.5.


But 4/3 = 1.3333, and 16/19 = 1.77777, so how does this work?


The answer is that SD-DVD pixels are "variable width" -- not square. I.e., to display the data properly you need to know whether the intent was for this to be a 16:9 movie or a 4:3 program. If it was a 16:9 movie then the correct interpretation of each pixel is that it is a little wider than it is tall. If it was a 4:3 program then the correct interpretation of each pixel is that it is a little taller than it is wide.


[The pixels on Blu-Ray discs are always square -- 1920/1080 = 16/9 = 1.7777.]


Now handling the difference in pixel width for 16:9 vs. 4:3 movies requires some extra smarts. And early on, most players were sold to folks using traditional 4:3 TVs. These TVs were used to watch theatrical "wide screen" and even "wider than wide screen" movies of course. The way this worked was that letter box bars were added top and bottom to pad the shape of the move out to the squarer 4:3 shape of the TV.


So early on, SD-DVD discs of "wide screen" movies were often produced in the "Letter-boxed" format. The content on the disc was flagged as 4:3 and the padding top and bottom was built into the content. That meant that a significant number of lines of pixels top and bottom were given over to holding just black pixels.


Even early wide screen (16:9) TVs included "zoom" modes for watching SD content like this that would extract the 16:9 shape embedded in the 4:3 content of an SDTV channel or a "Letter-boxed" SD-DVD disc and expand it to fill the screen. But again, you waste pixels doing this.


Eventually studios started producing discs that took advantage of the "anamorphic" feature designed into the SD-DVD spec from the beginning. Such discs, labeled "anamorphic" or "enhanced for 16:9 TVs", would use ALL 720x480 pixels of each frame to hold a 16:9 shape. If the movie itself was actually 16:9, that meant every pixel coming off the disc would hold movie content.


If the movie was "wider than wide screen" -- a 2.40 or even wider CinemaScope picture -- you would STILL have to have letter box bars in the content top and bottom. But not so thick since now you only needed to pad the movie to the 16:9 = 1.7777 shape instead of the squarer 4:3 = 1.333 shape.


Playing such discs would only work if the player and 16:9 TV were willing to cooperate -- to properly interpret the "anamorphic" pixels as wider than their 4:3 cousins. But the advantage was that you now used more pixels to hold movie information rather than black bars -- better resolution for the movie.


What happens if you play a 16:9 anamorphic SD-DVD and get that wrong? Well the pixels are incorrectly interpreted as tall rectangles instead of wide rectangles and so the movie is displayed as a 4:3 shape with the movie content stretched vertically -- circles look like tall ovals.


--------------------------------------------------


Anyway, none of this applies to Blu-Ray. Blu-Ray pixels are always square.


However, Blu-Ray is a 16:9 format. So if you are playing a 2.40 or wider cinematic release it is STILL the case that letter-box bars have been included in the content on disc to pad out the "wider than wide screen" shape of the movie to the 16:9 "wide screen" shape of the Blu-Ray format.


-------------------------------------------------


If you set up a Constant Image Height projection system for 2.35 movies (the typical target), you are again using Anamorphic processing. What you are doing is having the Anthem stretch the 2.35 movie vertically to eliminate the black letter-box bars built into the 16:9 content in the first place. The pixels you send to your projector are still in a 16:9 matrix (e.g., 1920x1080), but the imaging has been stretched vertically so the pixels need to be understood as taller than they are wide -- instead of square.


Meanwhile, your Anamorphic lens on the projector OPTICALLY widens the image. The result being that what hits the screen has the dimensions of the 2.35 shape you are trying to achieve. By widening the image, the Anamorphic pixels coming out of the Anthem are widened back into a square shape again.


The advantage is that all 1920x1080 pixels of each frame, as sent by the Anthem to the projector, contain movie info instead of any black letter box pixels. Thus you have increased the info resolution of what you see on the screen.


Now suppose you have an even WIDER movie on the disc. Perhaps 2.70 instead of 2.35. Then even set up this way, some thin strips of letter boxing will get sent to the projector and will still show when widened and projected on to your 2.35 screen.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab

Right, so simply put, the black bars are encoded on the disc?


And I am losing resolution (from the source), just like with the old-school SD DVD's, since about 1/3 of the 1920x1080 is being used for black bars. That's a shame.


It would seem like they could use the same logic in BD's as SD-DVD's, and use all 1920x1080 pixels for 2.4:1 content, stretching it top/bottom, then let the player add bars if needed for 16x9, or not for 2.4:1, right? The spec certainly could be changed to support that I would think.


Anyway, the D2v gives me lots of options, and using the D2v to do what would be better done by the studios with the original source is okay, but the VP can only do so much with an already reduced resolution image.


I'm really disappointed to learn this. You'd think they would have learned lessons from the SD-DVD days, and maximize the use of all pixels for "letterboxed" content.


Seems really dumb to me. Am I missing something? Is there anything beneficial about this approach?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16233172
> 
> 
> Right, so simply put, the black bars are encoded on the disc?
> 
> 
> And I am losing resolution (from the source), just like with the old-school SD DVD's, since about 1/3 of the 1920x1080 is being used for black bars. That's a shame.
> 
> 
> It would seem like they could use the same logic in BD's as SD-DVD's, and use all 1920x1080 pixels for 2.4:1 content, stretching it top/bottom, then let the player add bars if needed for 16x9, or not for 2.4:1, right? The spec certainly could be changed to support that I would think.
> 
> 
> Anyway, the D2v gives me lots of options, and using the D2v to do what would be better done by the studios with the original source is okay, but the VP can only do so much with an already reduced resolution image.
> 
> 
> I'm really disappointed to learn this. You'd think they would have learned lessons from the SD-DVD days, and maximize the use of all pixels for "letterboxed" content.
> 
> 
> Seems really dumb to me. Am I missing something? Is there anything beneficial about this approach?



No you aren't missing anything except the economics of the marketplace.


Many folks have lamented that there is no option in Blu-Ray to publish 2.35 anamorphic movies for folks willing to invest in players and projections systems that knew how to handle that.


But the problem is, there's not enough demand to make that happen.


The reason it made marketing sense for SD-DVDs is that 16:9 TVs were *ALREADY* in the works -- for HDTV. There are no 2.35 or 2.40 TVs being produced for the mass market and there likely never will be.


Why was HDTV spec'ed as 1.777 instead of 2.35? Because SDTV programs look really lame displayed on the super-wide 2.35 screen.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

Recently a "super-wide" tv was just released (or described anyway). I can't believe there'd be much market for it but it

has been made.


The Anthem D2 does a great job in conjunction with an anamorphic lens for blurays, and standard dvds. I also have the VW60 and it's quite economical to buy it with an anamorphic lens for use on a 2:40 screen. I think my old Pioneer Pro-730 tv cost more than my projector and lens!


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16227895
> 
> 
> Whew! Thank you gentlemen.



Shawn, iirc you have the SVS U13 sub, right? That is a beast of a sub with strong output at 20hz and below. Your graph suggests it is rolling off at above 20hz. It may be worth tweaking the sub's settings and/or position if possible and then re-running ARC. You've paid for the performance now you just have to maximize it in your room. Or you could just leave it as is since it's pretty darn good already.


----------



## dschamis

This might sound like an overly simple question but it just dawned on me (I'm probably behind 99% of the people on this thread on this topic):


For 2-channel music, should I do a separate 'Music' measurement on ARC with only two channels selected? Will it make a serious difference? I would think that it should.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/16235610
> 
> 
> Shawn, iirc you have the SVS U13 sub, right? That is a beast of a sub with strong output at 20hz and below. Your graph suggests it is rolling off at above 20hz. It may be worth tweaking the sub's settings and/or position if possible and then re-running ARC. You've paid for the performance now you just have to maximize it in your room. Or you could just leave it as is since it's pretty darn good already.



Thanks, yes that is my sub. It gets down below 10hz if I put the port plugs in. The problem is I think I would have to take down my screen to be able to get to the top of it to take the grill off and put the plugs in.


On another note on the sound in general, whether it's the room treatment, ARC, my speakers, or the Anthem, or a combination of all of them, I am not sure - but it sounds awesome


----------



## Lordoftherings

Hi Shawn Walters,


Welcome to the AVS Special member club (1,000 posts).


Shawn, remember the mirror trick. It is also a very good trick that you can use for the front ceiling, with the mirror flush with the ceiling, and looking for the three tweeters of your three front main speakers. Just put a two inch thick foam damping panel of about two feet square for each speaker. A very efficient way to get rid of the early refections from the ceiling. You will still improve the sound in your room, which is already very nice according to your latest graphs. Trust me, you will love it even more.

Also, if your floor is carpeted in front of your mains, you are good.

If not (wood floor), the mirror trick apply here as a first priority, by putting a nice oriental rug in the front of your room.


Take care & Happy listening (check Bolt on blu-ray).


Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/16235610
> 
> 
> Shawn, iirc you have the SVS U13 sub, right? That is a beast of a sub with strong output at 20hz and below. Your graph suggests it is rolling off at above 20hz. It may be worth tweaking the sub's settings and/or position if possible and then re-running ARC. You've paid for the performance now you just have to maximize it in your room. Or you could just leave it as is since it's pretty darn good already.



I'm not sure that's a "real" roll off of his sub. It looks like it may just be the application of the Room Gain hump to his subwoofer.


Shawn's "basic level" is 73dB in the latest chart and that's just about what he's getting from the sub's Calculated response at 20Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/16235649
> 
> 
> This might sound like an overly simple question but it just dawned on me (I'm probably behind 99% of the people on this thread on this topic):
> 
> 
> For 2-channel music, should I do a separate 'Music' measurement on ARC with only two channels selected? Will it make a serious difference? I would think that it should.



You've got several ways to go.


First, you can use a single, Movie solution and just select Stereo audio mode on the Anthem when listening to your 2 channel music. The Anthem will use the LF/RF speakers and, if you have a sub configured, also steer bass to the sub.


You can also use music oriented surround sound modes such as AnthemLogic-Music (which doesn't use the Center speaker for cleaner front staging) or PLIIx-Music (which can be configured in various ways, such as for how much Center speaker presence you want).


--------------------------------------


Or you can do what I've chosen to do and set up a separate Music configuration which doesn't include the Center speaker. For many folks, including the Center speaker in the set of stuff ARC has to correct will alter ARC's choice of the best way to use the sub and the LF/RF speakers. Dropping Center from the separate Music configuration eliminates that.


When playing content in this style of Music configuration, you still have Stereo audio mode as a choice as well as surround modes -- except the Center speaker will never be used.


----------------------------------------


Or you can set up a separate Music configuration with just LF/RF and your sub. As above, eliminating all the other speakers will let ARC focus on the best solution for just these speakers. Of course when listening you won't have any surround modes available.


----------------------------------------


Or, finally, you can set up a separate Music configuration with just LF/RF and no subwoofer. Obviously this only makes sense if LF/RF are decent "full range" speakers.


It's really up to you which, if any, of these Music configurations you want to try.


As I said, my personal preference is to include my sub for music and to NOT include the Center speaker. I have ARC Measure and correct for my surround speakers as well so I can use a surround music mode when I want. But most of my music listening is actually done in Stereo mode so that I'm using only LF/RF and my sub.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I did some more investigation of Video Source Adjust > Scale Out > Pillar Box mode to get a better handle on what Nick is saying and also what has been reported here from set top boxes.


I checked and indeed I, too, am getting pillar box bars generated by the D2v when viewing SD channels as 480i from my Comcast/Motorola box. Indeed there doesn't seem to be any way to set the Comcast/Motorola box to output 480i with pillar box bars included for a 16:9 TV.


If you want pillar box bars from this Comcast/Motorola box you also have to set it to scale the SD content up to HD resolution. This is actually a good thing for us Anthem owners.


[All of the above is true for both Component and HDMI output from the Comcast/Motorola DCT-3416 HD/DVR.]


However there is definitely a problem when viewing 16:9 SD content from SD-DVDs or "extras" on Blu-Ray discs.


It appears what Anthem has actually done is disable 16:9 flag processing in Pillar Box for SD resolution input.


I gather they did this in an effort to solve some of the "double-wide" pillar box bar problems when using some source devices.


But I don't think they've got this properly sussed out yet.


What I've suggested to Nick is that they:


1) Re-enable 16:9 content flag processing for Pillar Box scaling mode with SD input, and


2) Disable 4:3 content flag processing for Pillar Box scaling mode with HD input (i.e., treat it as 16:9).


By "content flag processing" I mean relying on the data that comes in on the video stream identifying whether the video stream represents a 4:3 or 16:9 program. This would only be used when Crop Input is set to Auto Detect.


If Crop Input is set to force 16:9 or 4:3 crops, or if a Custom Crop is set, then the Pillar Box processing would follow what ever Crop Input is enforcing.


There's enough complexity to all this that I think it will need some sorting out. Keep in mind that we are not just dealing with what needs to work. We are also dealing with how best to handle source devices that send out an incorrect content flag.


The good news is that I think this is getting some attention now, so it might even make it into the next firmware.

--Bob


----------



## thevendetta

Anybody have any news when these things are gonna start shipping again?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thevendetta* /forum/post/16236270
> 
> 
> Anybody have any news when these things are gonna start shipping again?



I don't have any information newer than this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post16055837 


--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

patiently waiting for my AVM50v. its been 44 working days since order was placed...


----------



## svirajsilp

What are D2V's internal fuses size?


I can't find any info from this thread or from Anthem website.


Are they the same as "the old" D2's fuses size


Just wanna upgrade to a premium one


Thanks



PS. Also will get D2V soon after using AVM20 for several years


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *svirajsilp* /forum/post/16240060
> 
> 
> What are D2V's internal fuses size?
> 
> 
> I can't find any info from this thread or from Anthem website.
> 
> 
> Are they the same as "the old" D2's fuses size
> 
> 
> Just wanna upgrade to a premium one
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> PS. Also will get D2V soon after using AVM20 for several years



Don't know, but gotta ask....why?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2v / AVM 50v Anticipation*





















































--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *svirajsilp* /forum/post/16240060
> 
> 
> What are D2V's internal fuses size?
> 
> 
> I can't find any info from this thread or from Anthem website.
> 
> 
> Are they the same as "the old" D2's fuses size
> 
> 
> Just wanna upgrade to a premium one
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> PS. Also will get D2V soon after using AVM20 for several years



First of all, welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!


On your fuse question, you should probably send an email to Anthem tech support. Be sure to let them know whether your new D2v will be the low voltage model as sold in North America, or the high voltage model as sold in some other parts of the world.


What are you being told about availability of the D2v in Thailand? Is the local distributor taking orders now? Do they have units in stock?

--Bob


----------



## svirajsilp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16240077
> 
> 
> Don't know, but gotta ask....why?



I used to do that on my AVM20 and found it sounded better










It's a kind of tweak which sometimes better than upgrade an AC cord.


----------



## svirajsilp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16240347
> 
> 
> First of all, welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!
> 
> 
> On your fuse question, you should probably send an email to Anthem tech support. Be sure to let them know whether your new D2v will be the low voltage model as sold in North America, or the high voltage model as sold in some other parts of the world.
> 
> 
> What are you being told about availability of the D2v in Thailand? Is the local distributor taking orders now? Do they have units in stock?
> 
> --Bob



In Thailand, no any Anthem brand's available yet.


I'm a fan of Anthem for a long time since I was in the US. That's why I have to find one to replace 20


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *svirajsilp* /forum/post/16240520
> 
> 
> I used to do that on my AVM20 and found it sounded better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a kind of tweak which sometimes better than upgrade an AC cord.



Interesting....I wasn't aware that changing the fuses could alter the sonic characteristics at all. Learn something new every day.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16241343
> 
> 
> Interesting....I wasn't aware that changing the fuses could alter the sonic characteristics at all. Learn something new every day.



Not to be obnoxious, but that looks like he has those power-cord suspenders, presumably to improve the sound as well.


I sure know how I feel about that sort of thing...


----------



## ehlarson




----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16240347
> 
> 
> First of all, welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!
> 
> 
> On your fuse question, you should probably send an email to Anthem tech support. Be sure to let them know whether your new D2v will be the low voltage model as sold in North America, or the high voltage model as sold in some other parts of the world.
> 
> 
> What are you being told about availability of the D2v in Thailand? Is the local distributor taking orders now? Do they have units in stock?
> 
> --Bob



Here in the Philippines, they do not have actual units on stock, I have ordered an AVM50v (cannot afford D2v right now) along with the LTX500 PJ. Tentative delivery date is May 15 (ocean freight) for the AVM while the release of the PJ is around that date, have to wait a few more weeks for the PJ to come.


For the meantine I 'm using an Onkyo 886 with regular Audyssey multi Eq xt. Dynamic Eq is great, just a first impression. Video implimentation is OK for 60fps. 24fps does not work at all, No OSD and no ISF controls work. HDMI for apple tv is active.


Music is much better with my previous D2 especially on female voices and 3 dimensionality.


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16240302
> 
> *D2v / AVM 50v Anticipation*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Here we go again!










Bob is at it once more.










________

Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16242421
> 
> 
> Not to be obnoxious, but that looks like he has those power-cord suspenders, presumably to improve the sound as well.
> 
> 
> I sure know how I feel about that sort of thing...



You mean you can get power cord suspenders as well? Another thing learned.










Impressive looking setup anyway, regardless what anyone thinks of his tweaks.


----------



## svirajsilp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16244627
> 
> 
> You mean you can get power cord suspenders as well? Another thing learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Impressive looking setup anyway, regardless what anyone thinks of his tweaks.



Those cord suspenders are Shunyata Darkfield


By the way, changing premium fuses like Furutech, Hi-fi tuning and C3 fuses are the easiest way to tweak your equipment.


Some may not hear differences depending on their systems


But, why don't you try if you want some more new experiences










For me, I don't replace all equipment on my system. Just one or two which I tried and it made me smile


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16244627
> 
> 
> You mean you can get power cord suspenders as well? Another thing learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Impressive looking setup anyway, regardless what anyone thinks of his tweaks.



This is an old tweak; it cuts the noise interference in relation to the floor vibration and allow a more direct and pure pathway of the signal to flow uninterrupted. There are also other advantages, but I just cannot remember them. But it is a good and proven (effective) tweak.

Also the Lifters should be electromagetic free, so they don't disqualified the advantages of running you cables in free air (lifted). I myself call it a Free Flow Field (FFF).


And about the fuses, each time you replace them, it does affect the sound for the better. One of the numerous reasons is that it rejuvenate the entire circuitry by regaining the top performance of the original state. Example: the lights are gaining back their original intensity, same for the different processors, etc. Fuses aged over time like anything else. The difference might be imperceptible, but it is there nonetheless. Every time that I change fuses in some of my components, I can personally notice a change for the better.


LOTR


Bob


----------



## The Bogg

Not that I don't like voodoo but let's not discuss these "tweaks" too much as it usually ends up with personal insults and a closing of the thread (based on what happens regularly in the 20K+ forum).


----------



## hell_spawn27

HELP! sigh! I am one confused guy! I've got the D2, I want to know which would be a better get the regular pioneer kuro tv or the elite tv. Since the anthem d2 would be doing most of the video processing. I read in this thread that if the display has dot by dot mode then it would be good and even the regular Kuro has that.


While in the Pioneer 9G forum, they advise to get the Elite display to use with a external scaler. So I'm not really sure what to do.


There will be a considerable level of SD content too being watched in this TV. Don't know if that would help but thought I should mention that.


Anyone please help!


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/16246813
> 
> 
> Not that I don't like voodoo but let's not discuss these "tweaks" too much as it usually ends up with personal insults and a closing of the thread (based on what happens regularly in the 20K+ forum).



Well I do agree with you, and I'm all done now. By-by voodoo...










Happy Easter Sunday.










Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I would like to do some video fine tuning and calibration but I am a bit puzzled about how to start in the first place.

I mean:

- I have video settings in my HTPC through my nVidia control panel

- I have video settings in my D2

- And I have video + CMS settings in my Sharp XV-Z21000 projector.


My questions are actually basic:

- What's the right sequence?

- What are the recommendations?


The tools I have:

- A laptop paired with a colorimeter (not the best one, but it'll do)

- All the latest test BD's available (I think so)


And one more thing, my system is set in a pitch dark room, no windows, no reflections.


Thank you


----------



## svirajsilp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16249603
> 
> 
> Well I do agree with you, and I'm all done now. By-by voodoo...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy Easter Sunday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob




Same here










Let's go back to D2V info & questions


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hell_spawn27* /forum/post/16249552
> 
> 
> HELP! sigh! I am one confused guy! I've got the D2, I want to know which would be a better get the regular pioneer kuro tv or the elite tv. Since the anthem d2 would be doing most of the video processing. I read in this thread that if the display has dot by dot mode then it would be good and even the regular Kuro has that.
> 
> 
> While in the Pioneer 9G forum, they advise to get the Elite display to use with a external scaler. So I'm not really sure what to do.
> 
> 
> There will be a considerable level of SD content too being watched in this TV. Don't know if that would help but thought I should mention that.
> 
> 
> Anyone please help!



I have the Elite with the D2v and I use dot-by-dot setting. Works great. Either of the Kuro's will work just fine in this setting. Get the one that looks good to your eyes and fits your budget. Both will be awesome.


----------



## AbMagFab

I'm probably just missing it, but is there a per-input overall volume adjustment? I see it for analog, but is there one for digital inputs?


For example, my XB360 is around 5-8db louder than my Tivo, and the PS3 is about 3-5db softer. I'd like to roughly equalize them so I'm not constantly messing with the volume when I change inputs.


The LF/HF adjustment in the setup menu appears to be more like the old-school treble/bass, not an overall adjustment.


Any ideas?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/16246813
> 
> 
> Not that I don't like voodoo but let's not discuss these "tweaks" too much as it usually ends up with personal insults and a closing of the thread (based on what happens regularly in the 20K+ forum).



It sure is some hilarious stuff though... At least it explains why more mainstream voodoo companies like Monster with their $220 8-foot HDMI cable continue to make people money... (no joke: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1158103757481 , and read the reviews, most are serious, and the couple joking ones are funny.)


If I were far less ethical, it seems like a really easy way to get rich quickly.


I mean - it's scary to think how many people are destroying their sound experiences with the electrical disruption from floor vibrations... and how many electrons must be getting slowed down and rusty on their way through an old, low-performance fuse...


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16250685
> 
> 
> I'm probably just missing it, but is there a per-input overall volume adjustment? I see it for analog, but is there one for digital inputs?
> 
> 
> For example, my XB360 is around 5-8db louder than my Tivo, and the PS3 is about 3-5db softer. I'd like to roughly equalize them so I'm not constantly messing with the volume when I change inputs.
> 
> 
> The LF/HF adjustment in the setup menu appears to be more like the old-school treble/bass, not an overall adjustment.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?




It's only works for analog..










but...


Good news..











Once Dolby Volume comes out in soon future firmware, it will fix the level differences between all your sources without effecting dynamics..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16250685
> 
> 
> I'm probably just missing it, but is there a per-input overall volume adjustment? I see it for analog, but is there one for digital inputs?
> 
> 
> For example, my XB360 is around 5-8db louder than my Tivo, and the PS3 is about 3-5db softer. I'd like to roughly equalize them so I'm not constantly messing with the volume when I change inputs.
> 
> 
> The LF/HF adjustment in the setup menu appears to be more like the old-school treble/bass, not an overall adjustment.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



There is no per-source volume level adjustment for digital audio input in the Anthems.


The PS3 has its own volume setting you can adjust -- press the Triangle button and find the volume control in the control panel that pops up. Be aware that raising the PS3 volume more than 1 step above the factory default setting has been known to cause distortion from some discs.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

I know this is unrelated, but can someone tell me how to delete "my photos" or at least point me in the right direction?


----------



## Johnsteph10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16244764
> 
> 
> This is an old tweak; it cuts the noise interference in relation to the floor vibration and allow a more direct and pure pathway of the signal to flow uninterrupted. There are also other advantages, but I just cannot remember them. But it is a good and proven (effective) tweak.
> 
> Also the Lifters should be electromagetic free, so they don't disqualified the advantages of running you cables in free air (lifted). I myself call it a Free Flow Field (FFF).
> 
> 
> And about the fuses, each time you replace them, it does affect the sound for the better. One of the numerous reasons is that it rejuvenate the entire circuitry by regaining the top performance of the original state. Example: the lights are gaining back their original intensity, same for the different processors, etc. Fuses aged over time like anything else. The difference might be imperceptible, but it is there nonetheless. Every time that I change fuses in some of my components, I can personally notice a change for the better.
> 
> 
> LOTR
> 
> 
> Bob




Sigh.










Over 2,000 posts in 2 months...and you're posting this non-sense.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnsteph10* /forum/post/16253370
> 
> 
> sigh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> over 2,000 posts in 2 months...and you're posting this non-sense.



+1


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16244764
> 
> 
> This is an old tweak; it cuts the noise interference in relation to the floor vibration and allow a more direct and pure pathway of the signal to flow uninterrupted. There are also other advantages, but I just cannot remember them. But it is a good and proven (effective) tweak.
> 
> Also the Lifters should be electromagetic free, so they don't disqualified the advantages of running you cables in free air (lifted). I myself call it a Free Flow Field (FFF).
> 
> 
> And about the fuses, each time you replace them, it does affect the sound for the better. One of the numerous reasons is that it rejuvenate the entire circuitry by regaining the top performance of the original state. Example: the lights are gaining back their original intensity, same for the different processors, etc. Fuses aged over time like anything else. The difference might be imperceptible, but it is there nonetheless. Every time that I change fuses in some of my components, I can personally notice a change for the better.
> 
> 
> LOTR
> 
> 
> Bob



I have been an electrician for 45 years. Never have I changed a fuse and seen any improvement in lights, motors ,heaters or anything else. What I can tell you is most properly sized fuses that do blow are not always from an overload but from loose or defective fuse holders. Keep changing fuses as you seem necessary but you may want to purchase some spare fuse holders when they lose their tension from removing and inserting new ones. Let sleeping dogs lie.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I have to say, got back this afternoon from my in-laws (who are not bad people at all, not my point), kids are in bed, wife is upstairs.


Been listening to music thru my D1-ARC for about 90 minutes relaxing getting ready for work tomorrow.


Thanks to the thread for helping me get here. Thanks Anthem for the product.


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I would like to do some video fine tuning and calibration but I am a bit puzzled about how to start in the first place.

I mean:

- I have video settings in my HTPC through my nVidia control panel

- I have video settings in my D2

- And I have video + CMS settings in my Sharp XV-Z21000 projector.


My questions are actually basic:

- What's the right sequence?

- What are the recommendations?


The tools I have:

- A laptop paired with a colorimeter (not the best one, but it'll do)

- All the latest test BD's available (I think so)


And one more thing, my system is set in a pitch dark room, no windows, no reflections.


Thank you


----------



## Doozer428

So... who else is anxiously waiting for Friday? I'm all moved in, staring at my new speakers... I just need my D2v to show up!


----------



## ehlarson

+1. I have a couple of deferred projects waiting for the D2V. Hope I make the list for this shipment.


----------



## Johnsteph10

I'm hoping that I make the Friday the 17th shipment as well!!!


----------



## malcolmp6

I hope they can clear the backlog by this week.

I am getting a little impatient.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16255861
> 
> 
> So... who else is anxiously waiting for Friday? I'm all moved in, staring at my new speakers... I just need my D2v to show up!



Perhaps you could use this time to get some high performance fuses, and some speaker cable stands?


----------



## Alembicjeff

Anthem's backlog just got a bit bigger because I just placed my order for a new D2v. Apparently, I will have to wait even longer for my unit because I ordered the standard 17 inch version.


Although this isn't my first Anthem product (I also own the A5 amp), it is this thread, which I have been following for over a year, and the support offered by Bob Pariseau, that convinced me that the Anthem D2v is the right product for my needs to replace my faithful but aging Parasound C-1.


Although I intend to read all of the posts at the beginning of this thread to help prepare me for the arrival of the D2v, I would most appreciate being able to download a copy of the owners manual for the D2v. Anyone know if this is possible, and where/how to do so? Thanks!


Jeff.


----------



## shawnwalters

That will be a lot of posts to read through!










Here is the manual:
http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...d2v_manual.pdf


----------



## Alembicjeff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16257605
> 
> 
> That will be a lot of posts to read through!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the manual:
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...d2v_manual.pdf



Shawnwalters,


I would be lying if I said I was looking forward to reading that many posts but the reward for doing so will hopefully be a properly set up and operating D2v. Anthem must have upgraded their website very recently to now include information on the D2v because I swear it wasn't there a week ago or so. Thanks for link to the manual!


Jeff.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alembicjeff* /forum/post/16257969
> 
> 
> Shawnwalters,
> 
> 
> I would be lying if I said I was looking forward to reading that many posts but the reward for doing so will hopefully be a properly set up and operating D2v. Anthem must have upgraded their website very recently to now include information on the D2v because I swear it wasn't there a week ago or so. Thanks for link to the manual!
> 
> 
> Jeff.



Between the Manual and the *FAQ section* of this thread you should be up to speed.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

At this point it looks like its safe to assume the D2 to D2v upgrade won't be happening in June as people were speculating. I have a feeling the upgrades won't start until the fall.


----------



## Alembicjeff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16258082
> 
> 
> Between the Manual and the *FAQ section* of this thread you should be up to speed.



I actually meant the FAQ posts when I referred to reading the posts at the beginning of this thread. Can't imagine trying to read nearly 21,000 posts, a task that I'm surely not up to.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alembicjeff* /forum/post/16258294
> 
> 
> I actually meant the FAQ posts when I referred to reading the posts at the beginning of this thread. Can't imagine trying to read nearly 21,000 posts, a task that I'm surely not up to.



Cool Dude


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16258289
> 
> 
> At this point it looks like its safe to assume the D2 to D2v upgrade won't be happening in June as people were speculating. I have a feeling the upgrades won't start until the fall.



Why? The June date was in response to the parts shortage, so that's already built in to that date. The June date comes both from Nick at Anthem, and I gather, what they are telling their dealers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alembicjeff* /forum/post/16258294
> 
> 
> I actually meant the FAQ posts when I referred to reading the posts at the beginning of this thread. Can't imagine trying to read nearly 21,000 posts, a task that I'm surely not up to.



Many of the FAQ posts are quite short, so it's not as daunting a task as it might appear.


I suggest people read the posts linked in the first post of this thread (what I like to call, "The Good Parts" version), read the owners Manual, and then, as time permits, start scanning backwards from the end of this thread. Going back more than say, 4 months worth of posts is probably pointless.


Keep in mind that you can also search within the thread using the Search feature in the upper right of the page while reading the thread. The Advanced Search feature lets you limit the search to posts made by a specific poster, among other things.


Also, regular old Google search will bring up posts from this thread as well if you use an appropriate set of search terms.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Hello All.

I have been flollowing this board for some time now. I need help/ advise on my setup. Currently having polks LSi 5.1 speakers with Sunfire TGP-5 pre/pro and Earthquake Amp.

I have read many good reviews about the Anthem D2v and thinking to get rid of my TGP-5 and get the D2v. My question is if it is worth the $ difference to do that. In other words will the D2v make a huge difference to fulfill the $ diference? I appreciate your guys help and advise.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16258519
> 
> 
> Hello All.
> 
> I have been flollowing this board for some time now. I need help/ advise on my setup. Currently having polks LSi 5.1 speakers with Sunfire TGP-5 pre/pro and Earthquake Amp.
> 
> I have read many good reviews about the Anthem D2v and thinking to get rid of my TGP-5 and get the D2v. My question is if it is worth the $ difference to do that. In other words will the D2v make a huge difference to fulfill the $ diference? I appreciate your guys help and advise.



I'm not going to be able to give you any explicit advice since I'm not familiar with the TGP-5, but from an audio point of view I think the inclusion of ARC (bundled with the D2v) should be a major factor in your thinking.


I was very pleased with the sound I was getting from my original D2 (and now D2v) prior to ARC, but the improvement brought about by the addition of ARC was just astounding. I would put it at roughly the equivalent of paying twice as much for your speakers.


Also keep in mind that you can get the same video, and quite a lot of the same audio (including ARC) in the Anthem AVM 50v for less money. Personally I would still recommend going for the D2v if you can afford the price difference. But if money is more of a factor, you should really consider the AVM 50v as an alternative.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16258591
> 
> 
> I'm not going to be able to give you any explicit advice since I'm not familiar with the TGP-5, but from an audio point of view I think the inclusion of ARC (bundled with the D2v) should be a major factor in your thinking.
> 
> 
> I was very pleased with the sound I was getting from my original D2 (and now D2v) prior to ARC, but the improvement brought about by the addition of ARC was just astounding. I would put it at roughly the equivalent of paying twice as much for your speakers.
> 
> 
> Also keep in mind that you can get the same video, and quite a lot of the same audio (including ARC) in the Anthem AVM 50v for less money. Personally I would still recommend going for the D2v if you can afford the price difference. But if money is more of a factor, you should really consider the AVM 50v as an alternative.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. You are always a great help. Your message helped a lot. I guess I will pull the triger and get the D2v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Being an old stick-in-the-mud, I'm still enjoying my Fujitsu plasma as my primary display. This is a 1366x768p panel, but it doesn't accept that as a valid input resolution. Instead you are supposed to use 1360x768p with it, which it accepts and handles just fine -- i.e., without stretching/scaling that. A 3 pixel wide strip is simply not used on each side.


Used this way, the imaging from the Anthem is spectacular. Even back in the early D2 days it was patently obvious that sending 1360x768p to the panel from the Anthem was *MUCH* better than sending, say, 1080i to the panel from the Anthem or any directly connected source device. And with the D2v it has just gotten better still.


-------------------------------------------------


Well in the course of doing some experiments with Pillar box, I just realized something that has completely escaped my attention over all the time I've been doing this.


And that is that 1360x768 is not the same shape as 16:9! In fact a 1360 pixel wide 16:9 image should only be 765 lines tall.


Indeed if you turn on Video Source Adjust > Scale Out > Pillar Box -- after setting Setup > Video Output > Letterbox to something other than Black so it is easy to see the results -- you will find that the Anthem is adding very thin letterbox bars (2 pixels tall at one edge and 1 pixel tall at the other) to pad 1360x765 to 1360x768 for output to the panel.


If you use Anamorphic, the 1360x765 content is, in essence, stretched vertically to fill 1360x768. [In reality the input video, whatever that happens to be, is scaled to 1920x1080p -- the resolution the Anthems use for internal processing -- and then downscaled directly to 1360x768p.]


This tiny shape difference is really much smaller than the eye can see, so we are not talking about the image looking distorted or not (e.g., circles looking like ovals). But it affects scaling quality! By leaving Pillar Box ON (with the Anthem set to use Black bars again of course), the square input pixels of a 720p, 1080i, or 1080p source are maintained as square through the scaling in the Anthem and out to the panel.


---------------------------------------------------


Now I've been using Pillar Box with my Comcast HD/DVR all along, but I've been in the habit of using Anamorphic with my disc players in the mistaken belief that 16:9 input was going to 16:9 output and so Anamorphic and Pillar Box were doing the same thing.


Not so! So now I have Scale Out set to Pillar Box for my disc players (unless I'm fighting a 4:3 vs. 16:9 content flag problem from some disc).


And I do believe I'm actually seeing some additional imaging quality!


----------------------------------------------------


Of course for folks with 1080p displays that accept dot for dot input this is not an issue, but for anyone else out there using a non-1080p (ETA: Or 720p) panel or projector, keep this in mind. Again you can temporarily set Setup > Video Output > Letterbox to, say, "Lightest" to watch exactly what the Anthem is doing in terms of adding letter or pillar box bars for your various sources when watching various types of content with either Scale Out > Anamorphic or Scale Out > Pillar Box.


ETA: It can be a bit tricky to nail down precisely what is happening sometimes, since the source may be doing its own games with pillar box bars and/or pixel cropping, and the display yet more games. For example, displays that incorporate artificial "overscan" -- i.e., some of the image lost off the 4 edges of the screen -- will get in the way of getting the full value from this trick.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16258705
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. You are always a great help. Your message helped a lot. I guess I will pull the triger and get the D2v.



I think you will have no reason to regret this decision.


Oh, and welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16258831
> 
> 
> I think you will have no reason to regret this decision.
> 
> 
> Oh, and welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.

I am sure you will get some questions from me when I get my D2v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alembicjeff* /forum/post/16257549
> 
> 
> Anthem's backlog just got a bit bigger because I just placed my order for a new D2v. Apparently, I will have to wait even longer for my unit because I ordered the standard 17 inch version.
> 
> 
> Although this isn't my first Anthem product (I also own the A5 amp), it is this thread, which I have been following for over a year, and the support offered by Bob Pariseau, that convinced me that the Anthem D2v is the right product for my needs to replace my faithful but aging Parasound C-1.
> 
> 
> Jeff.



Jeff,

Thanks for the kind words!


And welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!


-----------------------------------------------------------------


For all of you folks patiently awaiting delivery of your new AVM 50v or D2v (and I'm sure you are all simply towers of strength in this regard), keep in mind that there is yet another reason to be anxious:


There is still a fresh cookie available to the first person to install ARC and confirm that their new AVM 50v or D2v was shipped with ARC V2.1 (or later) on the ARC install CD.


Run the ARC application in Advanced mode and choose About from the Help menu to confirm the ARC application version number -- no need to set up to do Measurements to check this.


(We've already had confirmation that new units are shipping with firmware V2.04 factory installed, so that cookie is gone.)

--Bob


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16258755
> 
> 
> Being an old stick-in-the-mud, I'm still enjoying my Fujitsu plasma as my primary display.
> 
> --Bob



I'm thinking if everybody on this thread chipped in $5, we could get you a new Kuro. You deserve it!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/16262072
> 
> 
> I'm thinking if everybody on this thread chipped in $5, we could get you a new Kuro. You deserve it!



We've tried this several times before but he won't bite









John


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Hey Bob,


I'm looking at Paradigms new Sub 25. I seem to remember you saying a while back that there's no need for the Paradigm Perfect Bass kit if you're running a D2 with the latest ARC software. Do you know if this is fact?


Thanks!


Have any of you Anthem owners out there picked up one of the new Paradigm Subs? Any opinions on them?


----------



## dseliger

D2 sold, D2v order placed today! Now the wait...


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16262841
> 
> 
> We've tried this several times before but he won't bite
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



It kind of surprises me that Anthem doesnt furnish him with the first of every one of their products off the line. There is no question in my mind that he's sold more customers with his support than you can showing it off in a display room -- I've bought a D2 and a D2v based on his feedback...and am planning on swapping out my amps later this year.


Thanks again for all your support Bob -- and everyone else here!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16263961
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> I'm looking at Paradigms new Sub 25. I seem to remember you saying a while back that there's no need for the Paradigm Perfect Bass kit if you're running a D2 with the latest ARC software. Do you know if this is fact?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Have any of you Anthem owners out there picked up one of the new Paradigm Subs? Any opinions on them?



I've never actually seen a PBK in use, but as best I can tell it is simply the subwoofer-only part of an ARC implementation -- i.e., it provides ARC style processing in a stand-alone unit, but only for the subwoofer.


If you have an Anthem processor running ARC you will do much better to let it do all the work, as it will match the solution for the sub to the best solution for the other speakers.


So, no. I don't think you need the PBK, and if it comes bundled with the sub you will probably need to find a way to disable or bypass it so that it doesn't get in the way of what ARC is doing on your D2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/16264055
> 
> 
> It kind of surprises me that Anthem doesnt furnish him with the first of every one of their products off the line. There is no question in my mind that he's sold more customers with his support than you can showing it off in a display room -- I've bought a D2 and a D2v based on his feedback...and am planning on swapping out my amps later this year.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for all your support Bob -- and everyone else here!



We here at "Bob Pariseau" thank you for your kind words!










Just to be clear, I'm perfectly happy with the way Anthem is treating me. Unfortunately, they are not in the business of making plasma panels.









--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

And in case some of you don't know yet the Bob Pariseau Company also provides similar support for the new Oppo BDP-83.







Thanks for all you do Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Oppo division here at "Bob Pariseau" has also asked me to pass on their thanks for your kind words!










--Bob


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16265042
> 
> 
> And in case some of you don't know yet the Bob Pariseau Company also provides similar support for the new Oppo BDP-83.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all you do Bob.



Now if we could just get him to provide support for the Anthem shipping department we would be golden!

















Patiently (Well maybe not as patient as most) awaiting mine... Ordered beginning of March.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*PBK V1.1.1 Appears on Password Protected Download Page!*


This is not directly relevant for folks with the Anthem processors, but I'm including it just for completeness. Perfect Bass Kit (PBK) V1.1.1 software has just appeared on the password protected download page. It is in "Link 6".


The release notes read as follows:



> Quote:
> Paradigm Perfect Bass Kit
> 
> 
> Installation Instructions:
> 
> 1) Extract contents of zip download to the Desktop. The setup program will be in a Desktop folder called "pbk_cd".
> 
> 2) If you are installing PBK for the first time be sure to copy the serialized file (XXXXXXXParadigm.cal, where XXXXXXX is the serial number of your microphone) to the pbk_cd folder before clicking on setup.exe.
> 
> 3) Run 'Setup.exe' (from the unzipped folder on your desktop) and follow the instructions
> 
> 4) Once the installation has completed successfully you can delete the folder 'pbk_cd'
> 
> 
> 
> Supported Paradigm Subwoofers:
> 
> Signature Sub 25
> 
> Studio Sub 12
> 
> Studio Sub 15
> 
> X-850 Subwoofer Amplifier
> 
> 
> Change Log:
> 
> 
> v1.1.1:
> 
> 
> 1. Further improved vista Compatibility. (Errors relating to "Could not find valid microphone, check connection.")
> 
> 
> v1.1.0:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed bug in the measurement algorithm for low frequencies. If you open a file that was measured with an older version then v1.1.0 then it will automatically correct for the error in the measurements. You will still need to re-upload the calibration data to your subwoofer.
> 
> 
> 2. Improved Vista compatibility.
> 
> 
> 3. Various bug fixes.



PBK, as I said above, appears to be a repackaging of ARC in a "subwoofer only" version for folks using one of the supported Paradigm subwoofers in setups that don't already have ARC.


Something called "X850 Configurator" is also included in that download. I presume that's part of the PBK stuff, but there's no explanation included with it.


As usual, stuff appearing on the password protected download page is "test" software. If you happen to be a PBK user, be aware that "test" software is not finished yet, and may come with some unpleasant surprises.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16264077
> 
> 
> I've never actually seen a PBK in use, but as best I can tell it is simply the subwoofer-only part of an ARC implementation -- i.e., it provides ARC style processing in a stand-alone unit, but only for the subwoofer.
> 
> 
> If you have an Anthem processor running ARC you will do much better to let it do all the work, as it will match the solution for the sub to the best solution for the other speakers.
> 
> 
> So, no. I don't think you need the PBK, and if it comes bundled with the sub you will probably need to find a way to disable or bypass it so that it doesn't get in the way of what ARC is doing on your D2.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, as I mentioned before, the PBK software is for NONE ARC users. With the ARC, you can set up the MONSTER of a sub25. PBK software would be for other users like, the Denon's, Sony's and others.

P.S. How is the OPPO ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Oppo is looking very promising, but they still have some bugs to fix in it.


I've been a Beta tester for the BDP-83 since last fall, but they've only recently gone public with the player to the point I can talk about it.


Presuming they fix the bugs that need fixing (and I think the odds are good this will happen in short order), it will replace my PS3 as my primary Blu-Ray player and my Pioneer DV-59avi as my primary SD-DVD player.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters

Bob is it best to use a player with hdmi that does no upconverting for playing standard def dvds?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16266882
> 
> 
> Bob is it best to use a player with hdmi that does no upconverting for playing standard def dvds?



In general the answer is yes. Get a player that allows HDMI 480i output from SD-DVDs and let the Anthem take it from there.


However some newer players have excellent de-interlacing and scaling, and there may be other reasons why you want to use the video processing in the player. If so, set the player to output 1080p to the Anthem. The Anthem initially scales all video input to 1080p, so if you feed 1080p to the Anthem (scaled by the player) then there is not an additional scaling step in the Anthem itself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*PBK V1.1.1 Software Removed from Password Protected Download Page*


As of now, the PBK V1.1.1 download kit which had briefly appeared on Anthem's password protected download page has vanished from that page.


I don't know if a problem was found in this "test" software or if it was decided that the Anthem site was not really the best place to put out "test" software for what is, after all, a Paradigm product.

--Bob


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16266854
> 
> 
> The Oppo is looking very promising, but they still have some bugs to fix in it.
> 
> 
> I've been a Beta tester for the BDP-83 since last fall, but they've only recently gone public with the player to the point I can talk about it.
> 
> 
> Presuming they fix the bugs that need fixing (and I think the odds are good this will happen in short order), it will replace my PS3 as my primary Blu-Ray player and my Pioneer DV-59avi as my primary SD-DVD player.
> 
> --Bob



So, can we assume the OPPO will output 480i when playing SD-DVD's?

Sorry to be a little OT, but it would be relevant here if id did output 480i.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16258289
> 
> 
> At this point it looks like its safe to assume the D2 to D2v upgrade won't be happening in June as people were speculating. I have a feeling the upgrades won't start until the fall.



Oh the wait.....sigh


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/16267310
> 
> 
> So, can we assume the OPPO will output 480i when playing SD-DVD's?
> 
> Sorry to be a little OT, but it would be relevant here if id did output 480i.



Yes. See the BPD-83 Early Adopter Program thread in the Blu-Ray players forum -- specifically the first post. The owner's manual is available for download. There is also an excellent FAQ.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16266854
> 
> 
> The Oppo is looking very promising, but they still have some bugs to fix in it.
> 
> 
> I've been a Beta tester for the BDP-83 since last fall, but they've only recently gone public with the player to the point I can talk about it.
> 
> 
> Presuming they fix the bugs that need fixing (and I think the odds are good this will happen in short order), it will replace my PS3 as my primary Blu-Ray player and my Pioneer DV-59avi as my primary SD-DVD player.
> 
> --Bob



Oh the wait.....sigh



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/16267407
> 
> 
> Oh the wait.....sigh



At least you own a D2.... I am still waiting for my first Anthem....


Hoping for my D2v soon...


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16266854
> 
> 
> The Oppo is looking very promising, but they still have some bugs to fix in it.
> 
> 
> I've been a Beta tester for the BDP-83 since last fall, but they've only recently gone public with the player to the point I can talk about it.
> 
> 
> Presuming they fix the bugs that need fixing (and I think the odds are good this will happen in short order), it will replace my PS3 as my primary Blu-Ray player and my Pioneer DV-59avi as my primary SD-DVD player.
> 
> --Bob



So, have the elves in the OPPO tree told you when the next firmware is being released?









I really want to change my vote to 'yes' on the BDP-83. Excellent player that plays nicely with the D2.

Tom


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16211126
> 
> 
> Anyone know the answer to this? I got a reponse from an acoustic treatment company (RealTraps), and he had this in his response:
> 
> [/font][/color]
> What does that mean, and what's the answer to the resolution?



Here's a quote from the Realtraps site which I think somewhat explains what he's getting at. If not, give them a call, I've found them to be VERY helpful and approachable.


There are a lot of commercial test tone CDs available, but all of the CDs we've seen suffer from the same fatal problem: The tones are spaced at either 1/3 or 1/6 octave intervals, which is far too coarse to assess the low frequency response in rooms the size you'll find in most homes.


The graph below shows the response at the listening position in a typical 16 by 10 by 7-1/2 foot room. Note the peak/dip pair at 110 and 122 Hz where the response varies a staggering 32 dB across a range smaller than one musical whole step. This behavior is completely hidden when measured at 1/3 or even 1/6 octave spacing.


----------



## barhoram

I posted this over in the Oppo Blu-Ray EAP forum..but perhpas this is an Anthem D2 (NON V2) issue or setup issue...

_Anyone else have this issue with "The Spirit"?


My preamp (Anthem Statement D2) is showing that it is only outputting 2 channels when I choose the 7.1DTS-MA soundtrack..with the oppo doing the decoding. HDMI Audio is set to LPCM.


Now my D2 can only accept 5.1...so I wasn't exppecting the full 7.1....but the only way I could get more than 2 channels was to set it to Bitstream (then it just sends standard DTS). The front panel of the oppo indicated DTS-MA and MChannel...but when I check the incoming audio within the D2, it only shows 2 channel digital in. Anyone have this issue, or want to check if thier oppo can decode this disk properly (not bitstream)? Up to this point it has done fine with other TruHD and DTS-MA (5.1) disks.


Thanks._


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16266854
> 
> 
> The Oppo is looking very promising, but they still have some bugs to fix in it.
> 
> 
> I've been a Beta tester for the BDP-83 since last fall, but they've only recently gone public with the player to the point I can talk about it.
> 
> 
> Presuming they fix the bugs that need fixing (and I think the odds are good this will happen in short order), it will replace my PS3 as my primary Blu-Ray player and my Pioneer DV-59avi as my primary SD-DVD player.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, Can the Oppo be made multi-region? I have a lot of R2 DVDs.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16269785
> 
> 
> Bob, Can the Oppo be made multi-region? I have a lot of R2 DVDs.



This is better asked elsewhere and is a very contentious issue. Here is a link to the BDP-83 FAQ. Short answer No.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16269651
> 
> 
> So, have the elves in the OPPO tree told you when the next firmware is being released?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really want to change my vote to 'yes' on the BDP-83. Excellent player that plays nicely with the D2.
> 
> Tom



Beta testers are still under NDA. I can only talk about stuff that's already been delivered to the EAP owners.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/16269754
> 
> 
> I posted this over in the Oppo Blu-Ray EAP forum..but perhpas this is an Anthem D2 (NON V2) issue or setup issue...
> 
> _Anyone else have this issue with "The Spirit"?
> 
> 
> My preamp (Anthem Statement D2) is showing that it is only outputting 2 channels when I choose the 7.1DTS-MA soundtrack..with the oppo doing the decoding. HDMI Audio is set to LPCM.
> 
> 
> Now my D2 can only accept 5.1...so I wasn't exppecting the full 7.1....but the only way I could get more than 2 channels was to set it to Bitstream (then it just sends standard DTS). The front panel of the oppo indicated DTS-MA and MChannel...but when I check the incoming audio within the D2, it only shows 2 channel digital in. Anyone have this issue, or want to check if thier oppo can decode this disk properly (not bitstream)? Up to this point it has done fine with other TruHD and DTS-MA (5.1) disks.
> 
> 
> Thanks._



Check the video resolution you are using from the Oppo. You will need at least 720p to get the multi-channel sound from a high-bandwidth audio track.


Check the "Down-Mix" setting you are using in the Oppo's audio setup.


Be sure to turn off "Secondary Audio" in the Oppo's setup unless you are actually trying to use a mixed audio feature from the disc (e.g., a "PIP" Director's commentary track).


After checking all that, again look at what the Oppo shows in its on-screen info display for audio (lower left corner) and what the Anthem shows as the details for audio input when you press Select several times. If you are still having a problem, post all of that info.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters

I just ordered a Panamorph UH480 anamorphic lens for my JVC RS10. My plan is to use the Anthem to do the vertical stretch and cropping. So I figured I could set up several new inputs on my Anthem, for instance:


16:9

2:35

2:40

etc


And then set 2:35, and 2:40 to stretch and crop the bottom black bars off. And then for 2:40 it would also crop a little off the sides since I have a 2:35 screen. And actually probably a little on 2:35 too since it would really be like 2:37. And then 16:9 I would leave the lens in place, but add pillar bars to the sides to get it back to 16:9.


Am I thinking this through correctly, will this work ok?


On another note, I just emailed Nick about the "popping burst" sounds when things are paused, in between arc sweeps etc. Hopefully they fix it soon.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16271115
> 
> 
> I just ordered a Panamorph UH480 anamorphic lens for my JVC RS10. My plan is to use the Anthem to do the vertical stretch and cropping. So I figured I could set up several new inputs on my Anthem, for instance:
> 
> 
> 16:9
> 
> 2:35
> 
> 2:40
> 
> etc
> 
> 
> And then set 2:35, and 2:40 to stretch and crop the bottom black bars off. And then for 2:40 it would also crop a little off the sides since I have a 2:35 screen. And actually probably a little on 2:35 too since it would really be like 2:37.



I really wouldn't bother with 2.35 _and_ 2.40 presets, they're so close and so often missused (using the wrong one) that you'll never be able to tell which one to use. Just let the screen border handle it with some overscan.



> Quote:
> And then 16:9 I would leave the lens in place, but add pillar bars to the sides to get it back to 16:9.



Did this change? Last time I checked Anthem's implementation of the scaler won't do that.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/16271220
> 
> 
> Did this change? Last time I checked Anthem's implementation of the scaler won't do that.



I am not sure, I'll have to find out when the lens comes. My thinking was setting 16:9 material to 4:3 since it's taking it from 2:35...would that end up at 16:9?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16271296
> 
> 
> I am not sure, I'll have to find out when the lens comes. My thinking was setting 16:9 material to 4:3 since it's taking it from 2:35...would that end up at 16:9?



All of this is discussed in the "Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling" post links found in the first post of this thread.


There is no "squeeze" mode in the Anthems. When viewing real 16:9 content you will need to switch back to your normal lens or live with the widening done by your anamorphic lens (or the cropping of the top/bottom of the image if you apply your 2.35 aspect ratio mode to it).

--Bob


----------



## stanger89

That's what I thought, and why I didn't buy the upgrade for my 20.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/16271371
> 
> 
> That's what I thought, and why I didn't buy the upgrade for my 20.



Yes, I don't know whether the VXP chip is actually capable of doing the "squeeze" mode, but I suspect it is.


However, Anthem has resisted adding this feature due to the potential for customer confusion: Doing a "squeeze" on real 16:9 content so that you can project it through an anamorphic lens discards significant amounts of horizontal resolution. I.e., if you do that as a matter of course for your normal 16:9 viewing you will be seeing significantly lower imaging quality than if you swap out the anamorphic lens for a normal lens.


Having "squeeze" as a convenience feature would certainly be nice. But I suspect many folks would overuse it -- e.g., when watching normal HDTV -- and be unhappy with the resulting image quality.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters

I just tried to select 4:3 on a zoomed in 2:35 image and you guys are right, it doesn't do anything










I did however try to choose 4:3 on my JVC projector and it did make it into a 16:9 sized image. Although it was distorted in that it was taking a true 2:35 and compressing it to a 16:9. So I am curious if once the lens is in place and it "stretches" a 16:9 to 2:35, if this projector setting of 4:3 will restore it to the correct 16:9 aspect ratio. I guess I'll find out.


As to removing the lens for 16:9 and placing it back for scope - lets say on a sled - isn't focus an issue? Ie, the projector would be focused to one of those scenarios and be slightly out of focus for the other one?


I understand stretching an image with a lens, and then compressing it with pillar bars isn't quite as perfect as a normal 16:9 image, but yeah it would be nice if Anthem would add it. I know you got the pull Bob..make it happen


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16271695
> 
> 
> Yes, I don't know whether the VXP chip is actually capable of doing the "squeeze" mode, but I suspect it is.
> 
> 
> However, Anthem has resisted adding this feature due to the potential for customer confusion: Doing a "squeeze" on real 16:9 content so that you can project it through an anamorphic lens discards significant amounts of horizontal resolution. I.e., if you do that as a matter of course for your normal 16:9 viewing you will be seeing significantly lower imaging quality than if you swap out the anamorphic lens for a normal lens.
> 
> 
> Having "squeeze" as a convenience feature would certainly be nice. But I suspect many folks would overuse it -- e.g., when watching normal HDTV -- and be unhappy with the resulting image quality.
> 
> --Bob



That kind of mentality really drives me nuts. Come on let the user make the decision to use it or not, this isn't some $300 HTIB setup. Put up a warning if you feel it is necessary but don't use it as an excuse not to provide it. I suspect it is as much about having the resources as it is protecting us from ourselves.


"Save me from the people who would save me from myself" A stale cookie to anyone who gets the early 80's lyric reference.







No googling.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16271695
> 
> 
> Yes, I don't know whether the VXP chip is actually capable of doing the "squeeze" mode, but I suspect it is.



It can do it for (some) SD so I don't see why it couldn't do it for anything.



> Quote:
> However, Anthem has resisted adding this feature due to the potential for customer confusion: Doing a "squeeze" on real 16:9 content so that you can project it through an anamorphic lens discards significant amounts of horizontal resolution.



"Significant" is a matter of opinion. Lots of CIH users don't bother moving the lens as the loss in resolution for 16:9 content isn't significant. I believe Vern Dias is in that camp (with his IIRC VW100 and ISCO III lens).


Heck, I'd be happy if it was just a capability burried in a user-defined preset somewhere.



> Quote:
> I.e., if you do that as a matter of course for your normal 16:9 viewing you will be seeing significantly lower imaging quality than if you swap out the anamorphic lens for a normal lens.



But it's not significantly lower, the difference is actually quite neglible IMO.



> Quote:
> Having "squeeze" as a convenience feature would certainly be nice. But I suspect many folks would overuse it -- e.g., when watching normal HDTV -- and be unhappy with the resulting image quality.
> 
> --Bob



I doubt it, and besides, anyone with a lens should know enough to slide the lens out of the way if they wanted to.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16271962
> 
> 
> I just tried to select 4:3 on a zoomed in 2:35 image and you guys are right, it doesn't do anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did however try to choose 4:3 on my JVC projector and it did make it into a 16:9 sized image. Although it was distorted in that it was taking a true 2:35 and compressing it to a 16:9. So I am curious if once the lens is in place and it "stretches" a 16:9 to 2:35, if this projector setting of 4:3 will restore it to the correct 16:9 aspect ratio. I guess I'll find out.



It should, I use the 4:3 mode on my projector to squish HDTV back to the right shape (I've got a VC lens so there's no possibility of moving the lens out of the way).



> Quote:
> As to removing the lens for 16:9 and placing it back for scope - lets say on a sled - isn't focus an issue? Ie, the projector would be focused to one of those scenarios and be slightly out of focus for the other one?
> 
> 
> I understand stretching an image with a lens, and then compressing it with pillar bars isn't quite as perfect as a normal 16:9 image, but yeah it would be nice if Anthem would add it. I know you got the pull Bob..make it happen



My problem is I love Anthem, but I don't like being told they know better than me how to get an image on my screen in my setup. They lost the $2300 AVM20HD upgrade cost from me because they didn't incorporate that feature (couldn't justify the upgrade if the scaler didn't do everything I needed).


And I'll probably not be getting a 50V unless they add horizontal squeeze to that. I suppose that saves me having to donate my 20 to charity (because that's about all a 20 is worth these days).


----------



## barhoram

Bob,


Thanks. I found the source of the problem. If you select the DTS-HD soundtrack on the fly (from the Audio button on the Oppo remote) it

sends 2 channel to the D2. If you go to the main menu, or pop up menu, and choose DTS-HD, it sends 5.1 properly (or it would seem) to the D2. Wonder if it is the disk or the oppo with the problem??


What shoudl the Down Mix setting be for the D2? It was a 7.1...but seems to be ok. Should it be set to 5.1 or does it not matter for HDMI to the D2?






> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16270855
> 
> 
> Check the video resolution you are using from the Oppo. You will need at least 720p to get the multi-channel sound from a high-bandwidth audio track.
> 
> 
> Check the "Down-Mix" setting you are using in the Oppo's audio setup.
> 
> 
> Be sure to turn off "Secondary Audio" in the Oppo's setup unless you are actually trying to use a mixed audio feature from the disc (e.g., a "PIP" Director's commentary track).
> 
> 
> After checking all that, again look at what the Oppo shows in its on-screen info display for audio (lower left corner) and what the Anthem shows as the details for audio input when you press Select several times. If you are still having a problem, post all of that info.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## barhoram

I just noticed I'm at firwmare 1.31 on my D2. Looks like 1.33 is out. Anything major?? If I upgrade firmware, will I loose my ARC settings??


----------



## Doozer428

A birdy told me the D2v's won't arrive at dealers until next week, although they are still hoping to build them this week. And if you are past #10 on the waiting list, your wait could be longer. (don't shoot the messenger!)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/16273066
> 
> 
> I just noticed I'm at firwmare 1.31 on my D2. Looks like 1.33 is out. Anything major?? If I upgrade firmware, will I loose my ARC settings??



Yes. Read the Read Me text file that comes with the V1.33 firmware install kit.


As usual with a firmware upgrade, you will need to do a Reload Factory Defaults prior to the install. You can save and restore your settings via Save User Settings.


Your ARC room correction parameters are supposed to survive the install, but my practice has always been to re-Upload them "just in case".


So:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults

3) Do the firmware install

4) Reload Saved User Settings

5) Open your latest ARC results file in Advanced mode and do an Upload. No need to re-Measure or re-Calculate.


Just in case you haven't noticed, there is also a new, major release out for ARC itself -- V2.1. After updating your firmware, I suggest you find time to install ARC V2.1 on your computer and redo the ARC setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16273269
> 
> 
> A birdy told me the D2v's won't arrive at dealers until next week, although they are still hoping to build them this week. And if you are past #10 on the waiting list, your wait could be longer. (don't shoot the messenger!)



The estimate 6 weeks ago was that the backlog would ship by April 17, so of course there's also some shipping time after that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/16272696
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks. I found the source of the problem. If you select the DTS-HD soundtrack on the fly (from the Audio button on the Oppo remote) it
> 
> sends 2 channel to the D2. If you go to the main menu, or pop up menu, and choose DTS-HD, it sends 5.1 properly (or it would seem) to the D2. Wonder if it is the disk or the oppo with the problem??
> 
> 
> What shoudl the Down Mix setting be for the D2? It was a 7.1...but seems to be ok. Should it be set to 5.1 or does it not matter for HDMI to the D2?



That sounds like an Oppo problem. There are some combinations of disc type and setup options that can do something similar.


I suggest you give Oppo tech support a call and let them know what you've found. Have the disc case handy as they will likely ask for the ISBN and Bar Code numbers off it.


You can leave Down Mix in the Oppo at the default 7.1 or reduce it to 5.1. The Oppo will discover during the HDMI handshake that the D2 only accepts 5.1 and will limit its output to that.

--Bob


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16273307
> 
> 
> The estimate 6 weeks ago was that the backlog would ship by April 17, so of course there's also some shipping time after that.
> 
> --Bob



Agreed, but I think some were told (or were hoping) for Friday.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

stanger89,

I suggest you write up what you would like added and email it to Anthem tech support. The more people they hear from, the more likely this will get added to the to-do list. Even though you may very well get back the same "justification" I just gave you above, your comments won't get discarded. They really do track such feedback.


Tech support doesn't make the decisions on stuff like this of course, but they know how to get good suggestions to the people who DO make the decisions. Such emails may get to the right place, faster, than just comments made through your dealer or in this thread.


Everything gets prioritized of course. Right now I presume they are focussed on getting Dolby Volume shipped for the D2v and AVM 50v. I don't know what video changes might also make it into that release, but we know they are working on reverse telecine for SD-DVDs as well as improvements in HDMI.


There is also a V1.34 bug-fix release in the works for the D2 and AVM 50 owners.


Anyway, I agree with you that it would be better for Anthem to include the "squeeze" option, along with an explanation in the manual of what the downside is to using the "squeeze".

--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Bob,


What is the Settings Backup program that comes with the firmware download. Is this like the old program that will allow you to save your configuration to a computer?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/16273494
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> What is the Settings Backup program that comes with the firmware download. Is this like the old program that will allow you to save your configuration to a computer?



Settings Backup is a new utility that lets you save and restore your Setup menu settings via a PC file.


You can also use Live Video Settings Editor to "Get" and "Save" your Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file -- which you can later Open and "Load" to the Anthem as needed.

--Bob


----------



## malcolmp6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16273269
> 
> 
> A birdy told me the D2v's won't arrive at dealers until next week, although they are still hoping to build them this week. And if you are past #10 on the waiting list, your wait could be longer. (don't shoot the messenger!)



Does this mean every dealer will be limited to just 10 units?


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16273442
> 
> 
> stanger89,
> 
> I suggest you write up what you would like added and email it to Anthem tech support. The more people they hear from, the more likely this will get added to the to-do list. Even though you may very well get back the same "justification" I just gave you above, your comments won't get discarded. They really do track such feedback.



Yeah, I emailed them about it way back when the 50/D2/"HD" upgrades came out, asking about/for horizontal squeeze.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malcolmp6* /forum/post/16273590
> 
> 
> Does this mean every dealer will be limited to just 10 units?



Anthem ships strictly in the order that orders are received at Anthem -- with the exception that tech support replacement units go to the front of the line.


So how many units any given dealer will get depends on when the orders were placed by that dealer.


[The special configurations, e.g., rack mount, get built in batches as I understand it. So depending on when they do the batch runs for those you might get your unit earlier or later. But with the backlog they are handling now, I presume they have many of those special configuration units going through final assembly as well.]

--Bob


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16273269
> 
> 
> A birdy told me the D2v's won't arrive at dealers until next week, although they are still hoping to build them this week. And if you are past #10 on the waiting list, your wait could be longer. (don't shoot the messenger!)



It sounds like "10" might be a date rather than a position on a list.


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16273269
> 
> 
> A birdy told me the D2v's won't arrive at dealers until next week, although they are still hoping to build them this week. And if you are past #10 on the waiting list, your wait could be longer. (don't shoot the messenger!)



When was the remaining batch due if you arent in that top 10? Say if you ordered yours a couple days ago?


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16273742
> 
> 
> Anthem ships strictly in the order that orders are received at Anthem -- *with the exception that tech support replacement units go to the front of the line*.



Fingers crossed that mine is shipping right up there as #1.......


...cookies anyone?


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Just so as you know...

If the HDMI handshake problem is relevant to you, read this.

Ever since I started using my HTPC as my main and only source for movies I had that HDMI handshake problem.

Every time I wanted to show a movie I had to:

- shutdown or put in hybernate mode my HTPC

- lit up my D2

- lit up my projector

- wait for my projector to finnish its boot

- lit up my HTPC


I got used to it but it was a pain.

Last week I changed my audio card to an Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3.

This card needs the output of the graphic card to be fed to it and then it outputs both audio and video through one single HDMI cable.


Well, now my HTPC is always "handshaked" with my D2.

No need for hybernate mode anymore.


----------



## slots1

I am considering replacing my Sunfire sub with a REL sub. They connect not to the LFE output, but to positive on right speaker and positive on left and then one negative. How will ARC recognize this. Should I just take out the sub in setup and it would pick up the sub as part of the left and right speaker in the calculation. It is on demo now and I have not changed any of the arc settings. I was going to wait until I could upgrade my D2 to a D2v. I might be even older then I am now by the time that happens. Also, anyone using REL subs with their D2?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/16277422
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Just so as you know...
> 
> If the HDMI handshake problem is relevant to you, read this.
> 
> Ever since I started using my HTPC as my main and only source for movies I had that HDMI handshake problem.
> 
> Every time I wanted to show a movie I had to:
> 
> - shutdown or put in hybernate mode my HTPC
> 
> - lit up my D2
> 
> - lit up my projector
> 
> - wait for my projector to finnish its boot
> 
> - lit up my HTPC
> 
> 
> I got used to it but it was a pain.
> 
> Last week I changed my audio card to an Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3.
> 
> This card needs the output of the graphic card to be fed to it and then it outputs both audio and video through one single HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> Well, now my HTPC is always "handshaked" with my D2.
> 
> No need for hybernate mode anymore.



This is more of a graphics card problem than a pre-pro problem. The issue is that Windows PC's want to constantly renegotiate the display. So when you turn off your pre-pro (or sometimes even switch to a different input), the PC wants to renegotiate. Sometimes this means no display at all, often it means a lower resolution.


The 100% solution to this is a DVI Doctor or DVI Detective. (You don't need an overpriced underfunctional card like the HDAV, that's just a waste of money).


Anyway, for anyone with a HTPC, you should budget for a DVI Doctor/Detective, as well as AnyDVD HD. Both are necessities for a stable HTPC environment.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/16277707
> 
> 
> I am considering replacing my Sunfire sub with a REL sub. They connect not to the LFE output, but to positive on right speaker and positive on left and then one negative. How will ARC recognize this. Should I just take out the sub in setup and it would pick up the sub as part of the left and right speaker in the calculation. It is on demo now and I have not changed any of the arc settings. I was going to wait until I could upgrade my D2 to a D2v. I might be even older then I am now by the time that happens. Also, anyone using REL subs with their D2?



Tell ARC you have no subwoofer and it will configure your LF/RF speakers as "full range". You will need to MANUALLY adjust volume and crossover in the sub itself to best match with your LF/RF speakers. ARC will show how well this is working in its Measured curves, but won't have any way to adjust these for you.


ARC will still apply room correction to the bass -- it will just be applied to what ARC now sees as additional bass extension in LF/RF. Bass from other speakers will be steered to LF/RF since you have no sub configured.


Even though ARC is running LF/RF as "full range", it's solution will still likely apply a roll off at the lowest bass frequencies. You can manually lower the "cutoff" Target value for LF/RF to force ARC to operate LF/RF all the way down.


I can't think of any good reason to prefer a subwoofer that hooks up this way. Why do you want to do this?


ETA: Understand that the subwoofer output on the Anthem is not merely an LFE output. It is a combo of LFE and bass steered from the other speakers. So if you have your sub connected to the subwoofer output of the Anthem it will ALSO act to provide bass extension for all of your other speakers.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/16273624
> 
> 
> Yeah, I emailed them about it way back when the 50/D2/"HD" upgrades came out, asking about/for horizontal squeeze.



I sent him a link to these posts too.


He said it is doable, but currently unavailable. Hes extremely helpful and I still like my Anthem without this functionality, but I'd love it even more if it offered it







And yeah like Bob said, put a little disclaimer on it and make it happen!


----------



## Murat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15831964
> 
> 
> 3) Next set the phase for each sub separately. With only one sub powered at a time, adjust the Polarity/Phase for that sub to best match the LF speaker. Use the phase/polarity controls on the sub itself. You'll need the phase adjustment tones on a calibration DVD -- details are in those post links in the first post of this thread. When both subs are in phase with LF then they are also in phase with each other.
> 
> 
> 4) Now do ARC Measurement (with BOTH subs powered on). ARC will hear the two subs as a combo and will correct accordingly. This is the only proper way to use ARC with more than one sub.
> 
> 
> 5) After you do your ARC Upload you should find that 1 Sub is still specified. The speaker volume trim and crossover uploaded for the sub will be the correct values for your combo of two subs.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob,


After I do the dual sub settings, should I worry about the phase/polarity adjustments on the D2v? Should I make any changes or will the ARC take care of those settings on D2v?


Also I frequently change Aspect Ratio between 2.35, 16:9, 4:3. In order to do taht with D2v I have to go deep in the setup menu and it's usually confusing and takes some time. Can there be any direct access/shortcuts to these AR settings. I guess you can't program any macro with the remote for these type of adjustments. Any solution?


Thank You


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I sent him a note as well recommending (again) the addition of "squeeze" mode.


Since they have to fix the problem in handling 16:9 flagged SD content when using Pillar Box, they'll be in that general portion of the code, so maybe we can get this included, too.


---------------------------------------------


By the way, he asked me a question I didn't know about. It turns out that in Europe they actually broadcast anamorphic SD content -- that is, 576i movies in a 16:9 frame just like you might get off a PAL SD-DVD.


The question was whether any of the services in the US (off air, cable, or satellite) were also doing that.


Typically, SDTV movies are broadcast as "letterboxed" -- i.e., the wide screen movie is broadcast embedded in a 4:3 frame. I've never heard of any broadcast video service in the US offering anamorphic SD content.


Is anyone here using a service that does that? I.e., that broadcasts a 16:9 or wider SDTV movie in a 16:9 frame instead of in a traditional 4:3 frame? I don't think TVs in the US are even set up to expect such stuff from their tuners. But a cable or satellite set top box could handle that as part of up-scaling output to HD to go to an HDTV display. The real question here is what happens if the set top box is set to output 480i or 480p from such a broadcast (presuming such a broadcast even exists)?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/16278758
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> After I do the dual sub settings, should I worry about the phase/polarity adjustments on the D2v? Should I make any changes or will the ARC take care of those settings on D2v?
> 
> 
> Also I frequently change Aspect Ratio between 2.35, 16:9, 4:3. In order to do taht with D2v I have to go deep in the setup menu and it's usually confusing and takes some time. Can there be any direct access/shortcuts to these AR settings. I guess you can't program any macro with the remote for these type of adjustments. Any solution?
> 
> 
> Thank You



Set the D2v Phase/Polarity to 0 Phase and Normal Polarity before you do the separate Phase/Polarity adjustments in each subwoofer. Don't make any changes in the Phase/Polarity settings in the D2v after that. ARC does not adjust Phase/Polarity, so it won't be making any such changes.


-------------------------------------


One solution to selecting different Video Source Adjust > Crop Input settings is to set up overlaid source definitions (e.g., TV1 vs. TV2) that refer to the same source device. The Video Source Adjust settings are remembered separately for each. So, for example, you can set up TV1 as Auto Detect (switches between 4:3 and 16:9 on its own), TV2 as forced 16:9 (extracts a 16:9 movie from a 4:3 SDTV frame), and TV3 with a Custom Crop of 1440x810 (extracts a 16:9 movie embedded in a 4:3 frame embedded in the 16:9 frame of an HDTV channel). Then select the one you want as needed. You can use the 3 key remote command combos (see Appendix A of the manual) to select one of these directly.


You can use the same trick to set up a 2.35 anamorphic (vertically stretched) setting for a Constant Image Height projector.


Another solution is to set up to use RS-232 control of the D2v instead of using the normal IR remote. The RS-232 control set is extensive beyond belief, and you can do all sorts of things like this without having to go into menus. The RS-232 command set is documented in an Excel spreadsheet that is included with all the utilities and things in the ARC V2.1 install kit.


There used to be a remote control "shortcut" that allowed you to view the current Crop Input setting and cycle through the settings without having to go into the menu. That was replaced by the current shortcut that allows you to move between Video Output configurations. I've been lobbying to have the Crop Input shortcut returned.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16278797
> 
> 
> I sent him a note as well recommending (again) the addition of "squeeze" mode.
> 
> 
> Since they have to fix the problem in handling 16:9 flagged SD content when using Pillar Box, they'll be in that general portion of the code, so maybe we can get this included, too.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> By the way, he asked me a question I didn't know about. It turns out that in Europe they actually broadcast anamorphic SD content -- that is, 576i movies in a 16:9 frame just like you might get off a PAL SD-DVD.
> 
> 
> The question was whether any of the services in the US (off air, cable, or satellite) were also doing that.
> 
> 
> Typically, SDTV movies are broadcast as "letterboxed" -- i.e., the wide screen movie is broadcast embedded in a 4:3 frame. I've never heard of any broadcast video service in the US offering anamorphic SD content.
> 
> 
> Is anyone here using a service that does that? I.e., that broadcasts a 16:9 or wider SDTV movie in a 16:9 frame instead of in a traditional 4:3 frame? I don't think TVs in the US are even set up to expect such stuff from their tuners. But a cable or satellite set top box could handle that as part of up-scaling output to HD to go to an HDTV display. The real question here is what happens if the set top box is set to output 480i or 480p from such a broadcast (presuming such a broadcast even exists)?
> 
> --Bob



Back when I had DirecTV, there were a couple channels that did this once in a blue moon. I think maybe Starz or Encore? I can't remember now.


But it was the only use for the 4x3 vs. 16x9 setting on the Tivo at the time, since pretty much all content was 4x3 (and all I had was 4x3 TV's). However once in a while I'd Tivo a movie that was all squished, and I realized that was why. Changing the Tivo setting added the letterbox (on a 4x3 set).


Not sure if this is done anymore though, but I can say for sure that DirecTV did it back in the day, on a few rare occasions at least.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16278982
> 
> 
> Not sure if this is done anymore though, but I can say for sure that DirecTV did it back in the day, on a few rare occasions at least.



Interesting! I was a DirecTV user up to 2006. I don't recall that happening, but it would have been easy to miss it.


I wonder if they just threw in the wrong DVD when making those broadcasts?










--Bob


----------



## uberanalyst

Let me suggest 2 more reasons why I'd love to see Anthem implement horizontal squeeze mode in the D2:


1. On cable, some of the HD channels like the History Channel HD showing Modern Marvels programs apply a 16:9 horizontal stretch to their non-HD 4:3 content. It would be nice to use the Anthem to convert this 720p HD broadcast back to 4:3 with black bars on the sides.


2. I've got a Samsung UP5000 combo Blu-ray/HD-DVD player that unfortunately won't send non-anamorphic 480i DVD output in a native 4:3 mode. It treats all DVDs as if they are anamorphic. While the Samsung does a fantastic de-interlacing/upconverting job on regular DVDs via its REON chip, the result is a horizontally stretched picture. Again, I'd love to use my Anthem to convert this upconverted and stretched 1080p picture back to a 4:3 picture with black bars on the sides.


- Dave


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/16279348
> 
> 
> 1. On cable, some of the HD channels like the History Channel HD showing Modern Marvels programs apply a 16:9 horizontal stretch to their non-HD 4:3 content. It would be nice to use the Anthem to convert this 720p HD broadcast back to 4:3 with black bars on the sides.



This alone is a strong reason to implement squeeze. There are tons of HD channels that show 4x3 content stretched wide, making it nearly unwatchable.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16279893
> 
> 
> This alone is a strong reason to implement squeeze. There are tons of HD channels that show 4x3 content stretched wide, making it nearly unwatchable.



The problem is that many of those use some variant of panoramic stretch (more stretch towards the sides than in the center). So a uniform squeeze won't undo that.


Nevertheless, a squeeze is probably better than watching them fully stretched.

--Bob


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16267449
> 
> 
> Yes. See the BPD-83 Early Adopter Program thread in the Blu-Ray players forum -- specifically the first post. The owner's manual is available for download. There is also an excellent FAQ.
> 
> --Bob



Great. Another thread to start following!!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16279035
> 
> 
> Interesting! I was a DirecTV user up to 2006. I don't recall that happening, but it would have been easy to miss it.
> 
> 
> I wonder if they just threw in the wrong DVD when making those broadcasts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Why did you drop the DirecTV? I'm thinking of trying FIOS, since it's in my area now.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16280080
> 
> 
> The problem is that many of those use some variant of panoramic stretch (more stretch towards the sides than in the center). So a uniform squeeze won't undo that.
> 
> 
> Nevertheless, a squeeze is probably better than watching them fully stretched.
> 
> --Bob



Good point - but I'd still prefer a squeezed version of that than the current stretched version. And presumably I could vary the squeeze, so it maybe would be 4x4 or 5x3 or whatever.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/16280561
> 
> 
> Why did you drop the DirecTV? I'm thinking of trying FIOS, since it's in my area now.



I dropped DirecTV for reasons peculiar to my installation -- nothing to do with their product.


Verizon FIOS TV is slated to come to my area before the end of the year and I'll be delighted to dump Comcast when that happens.

--Bob


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16280709
> 
> 
> I dropped DirecTV for reasons peculiar to my installation -- nothing to do with their product.
> 
> 
> Verizon FIOS TV is slated to come to my area before the end of the year and I'll be delighted to dump Comcast when that happens.
> 
> --Bob



which is a better product: ATT uverse? time warner? or version fios?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *osofast240sx* /forum/post/16280886
> 
> 
> which is a better product: ATT uverse? time warner? or version fios?



I'm sorry, I can't help you with that. I have no direct experience with the AT&T or Time Warner products.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *osofast240sx* /forum/post/16280886
> 
> 
> which is a better product: ATT uverse? time warner? or version fios?



FIOS, without question.


UVerse has a flawed technical implementation, with major limits on things like simultaneous HD channels in a single house.


Time Warner is saddled with an aging physical infrastructure with lots of active repeaters and limited capacity. SDV is a horrible side effect, as is the shared internet bandwidth issues.


FIOS is fiber to the home, a completely passive infrastructure from the CO to your house, more capacity than any other provider (at every point in the infrastructure), no additional shaping/compression on HD channels, and superior internet service.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Shipment Status Update*


Usually reliable sources tell me that Anthem units are indeed shipping again this week.


However, I'm also being told that the backlog is building up faster than Anthem can ramp up capacity. So they'll probably remain on 60 day-ish backorder into the summer. Indeed it looks more likely the backorder will get worse before it gets better.


If you want one, the only solution is to place an order and wait. It will be QUITE some time before they get anywhere close to a situation where dealers might actually have excess units to keep in inventory. So waiting to buy until things become "more normal" is almost certainly a losing strategy.


Of course it might help if all the current owners stopped talking about how happy they are with their new Anthems!









--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

On the advice of Nick at Anthem, I recently switched my hdmi from my Satellite to Anthem for component cables. (Has to do with the hiss/hum issue I have).


I notice in doing so, I get occassional very faint horizontal lines, like scan lines occurring on my display. When I switch back to hdmi, they disappear. Could this have anything to do with the quality of the component cables? I didn't have any high quality ones, so just used the ones that came with my Satellite receiver.


In any case, I am now using hdmi for video and optical for audio to combat my hum/hiss issue, but I'm curious about these lines that occur when I use component cables.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16283060
> 
> 
> On the advice of Nick at Anthem, I recently switched my hdmi from my Satellite to Anthem for component cables. (Has to do with the hiss/hum issue I have).
> 
> 
> I notice in doing so, I get occassional very faint horizontal lines, like scan lines occurring on my display. When I switch back to hdmi, they disappear. Could this have anything to do with the quality of the component cables? I didn't have any high quality ones, so just used the ones that came with my Satellite receiver.
> 
> 
> In any case, I am now using hdmi for video and optical for audio to combat my hum/hiss issue, but I'm curious about these lines that occur when I use component cables.



If the horizontal interference lines are fairly widely spaced and move slowly up the screen then this is a classic case of 60Hz power line interference. The refresh rate for what's called 60Hz video is actually 59.94Hz for technical reasons, so true power line interference (which really is 60Hz) happens a little bit faster than the screen refresh rate -- so the lines scroll upwards.


Poorly shielded component cables could be picking up this interference from power lines running near them. Fix that with better cables or by repositioning the cables (cross power lines at right angles rather than running along side of them).


60Hz power line interference can also be due to a ground loop -- garbage gets into your set of equipment from some external source and travels from device to device along the cable shields of the cables connecting them. The single most common source of such stuff is a cable or satellite feed which is not properly grounded where it enters your house, or not properly shielded from that point to your receiver box.


Temporarily disconnect the feed line between the wall and your cable/satellite set top box. If the interference lines go away, then that's the culprit. This can be fixed by better grounding the feed at the point where it enters your house and by making sure the connections between there and your set top box are tight and free of corrosion. For cable feeds (but not satellite feeds) there are also cheap gizmos called ground blockers that you can put between the feed line and your set top box. They separate the cable shield of the feed line from the cable shield of your set top box so the garbage can't get in that way. You can't do the same thing with satellite feeds because the cable shield is used to carry DC switching voltage to the satellite dish to tell it which satellite signals you want to receive at the moment.


Power line interference can also come from using different power feeds for different boxes in your setup.


---------------------------------------------------


If it turns out you really do have ground loop garbage present in your system, I wouldn't be at all surprised to discover that is also the cause of the hiss/hum problem you have been having.


So eliminating the cause of the interference lines for component video may also eliminate your hiss/hum problem!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*ARC Instructions for D1 Users*


While answering an ARC related question for a D1 user, it dawned on me that the D1 Manual has not been updated to include a section on ARC.


It's no big deal. Manual Section 3.15, as found in the D2, D2v, AVM 50, or AVM 50v Manuals, is what you need. All of those manuals are included in the Manuals folder when you download the ARC install kit.

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

Picked up my new replacement D2V a couple of days ago. Thus far, all is good and sound is back.


On the ARC side, when the process starts and it detects the D2V, there is like AM/FM static noise (very low) leaking out of the surround back speaker(s). When the ARC tone kicks off, the leakage stops and doesn't appear to effect the measurement. Anybody experience that?


The D2V came with the latest firmware of 2.04 and I installed the ARC that came with the CD...assume it's the latest version since I just got the D2V.


But the pic and sound, it's in another league in comparison to my Elite SC-07. It's great to have my D2V back....with sound


----------



## zuesmaximus

Just got "the" call from my dealer....

My AVM50v is finally here!!! Can't wait to get out of work to pick it up









Today is a great day!!!!


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16285833
> 
> 
> Just got "the" call from my dealer....
> 
> My AVM50v is finally here!!! Can't wait to get out of work to pick it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Today is a great day!!!!



I bet you're excited!! Wonder what you'll be doing this weekend


----------



## zuesmaximus

Funny thing is a just installed my AVM50 in my basement HT last night, and was going to run ARC today. But now I'll be focusing on my family room.... WOW I can't wait


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/16285487
> 
> 
> Picked up my new replacement D2V a couple of days ago. Thus far, all is good and sound is back.
> 
> 
> On the ARC side, when the process starts and it detects the D2V, there is like AM/FM static noise (very low) leaking out of the surround back speaker(s). When the ARC tone kicks off, the leakage stops and doesn't appear to effect the measurement. Anybody experience that?



It is a known issue that several of us have experienced and Anthem is aware of the problem. It does not impact the ARC process, but is annoying.


Mimke


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16286122
> 
> 
> It is a known issue that several of us have experienced and Anthem is aware of the problem. It does not impact the ARC process, but is annoying.
> 
> 
> Mimke



Yeah it's annoying. And just fyi, if it happens when in normal use too, Nick said to just make sure the mute setting is at Max for that input and lip sync is at 0.0.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For you folks taking delivery of new AVM 50v or D2v units, you can verify the ARC version by running ARC in Advanced mode and selecting About from the Help menu. No need to hook up to the Anthem or the mic or take Measurements or anything else to do this. Just install the ARC application on your PC and report if your new Anthem came with ARC V2.1 or later on the install CD.


If you are the first to confirm this, it's worth a cookie!









--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

That is the first thing I will check and report...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Since you are keeping your original AVM 50, it will be interesting to see what you find in terms of audio/video differences in the AVM 50v. Take some time to get used to the new unit before making this comparison. Of course you've got them in different setups, so that will affect what you see and hear, too. But I suspect you'll still find stuff worth reporting.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

Just hooked my new AVM50v!!!(v2.04)

Its so sweet, I noticed a picture and sound quality already...

my unit came with arc 2.1.

I'm going to run Arc now, I hope I get it right after months of reading this forum


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16288998
> 
> 
> Just hooked my new AVM50v!!!(v2.04)
> 
> Its so sweet, I noticed a picture and sound quality already...
> 
> my unit came with arc 2.1.
> 
> I'm going to run Arc now, I hope I get it right after months of reading this forum



Well how 'bout that! Here, have a cookie!


By the way, make sure you use the correct ARC mic with your AVM 50v and AVM 50. You can not interchange them as they each need to be paired with the correct mic calibration file, and that's keyed to the serial number of the Anthem itself.


The ARC application can not detect if you use the incorrect ARC mic. It's up to you to make sure you use the mic that came with the ARC kit for each processor or you will get bad results.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

I think it worked....

having a hard time attaching results


----------



## zuesmaximus

Well, I finally ran my first ever Arc test and WOW what a difference!

Been an Anthem owner for over 10 years and had no idea how great Arc is! I know my family room is not ideal but Arc made it sound hundred times better. My only problem I'm having is in picture quality.


I was watching on HBO We are Marshall, thru the movie I would get 10 minute long weird imagining. Its hard to explain, I've never see this before. It looked sort of like slow motion or unreal filming. Also on action scenes very bad pixelation.

??? I don't know what could be causing this???


----------



## schlitzie

sounds like you had the video processing set to 1080/24P with a 60i source... with that you get video stuttering -- Try it again with the anthem at 1080/60 for cable.


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16282987
> 
> *Shipment Status Update*
> 
> 
> Usually reliable sources tell me that Anthem units are indeed shipping again this week.
> 
> 
> However, I'm also being told that the backlog is building up faster than Anthem can ramp up capacity. So they'll probably remain on 60 day-ish backorder into the summer. Indeed it looks more likely the backorder will get worse before it gets better.
> 
> 
> If you want one, the only solution is to place an order and wait. It will be QUITE some time before they get anywhere close to a situation where dealers might actually have excess units to keep in inventory. So waiting to buy until things become "more normal" is almost certainly a losing strategy.
> 
> 
> Of course it might help if all the current owners stopped talking about how happy they are with their new Anthems!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


This is interesting. I ordered one last week from a very relaible large dealer that sold me my original D2. He spoke to an Anthem rep who stated it should be about 3 weeks.


I will keep the group posted.


Lou


----------



## zuesmaximus

yesterday I tried several different resol/ 1080/24p & 1080/60. I was still seeing that weird imagine. The imagine would resemble a weird filming tech. hard to explain. but it would go away on its own. I tried several channels and it was really bad on YES network HD. Yankee game looked horrible


----------



## runnerlk

Recently ordered a new D2v2. I was a proud owner of the original D2 but sold it in favor of an Integra DTC9.8 and a high end scaler simply for the advanced codecs and the idea that I could get better video with the scaler.


In my currrent setup I am running the 2 main channels from my Integra to my Conrad Johnson CT-6 tube pre and using a unity gain( HT bypass). This allow me to use the CJ for my 2 channel with a Consonance 2.0 Ref SACD player and my beloved Rega P5 tt and video through the Integra without disconnecting cables and works great. I currently own an Oppo 970 on the recommendtion of this forum and it is nice for SD DVD, DV-A and Pioneer Elite BDP-05FD.


Is the Universal music player of choice still the Oppo line?


Thanks,


Lou


----------



## scanido

Based on my system, would you recommend I persue the AVM50v or D2V???


I understand that the primary difference is the added SQ b/w the two, but i am uncertain if my setup would bring out this difference to make up for the jump into the D2V.


System:


Pioneer PDP-5060

B&W 803S

B&W HTM3S

B&W SCMS


My source would be my PS3 and a HD cable box. Currently i have each source going to the plasma so i'm not sure if i would benefit much on the picture quality side. I really prefer to concentrate my upgrade on SQ. THe question is which proc would best balance my system??










THanks


----------



## zuesmaximus

with the picture quality my fios hd box (motorola QIP62002-2) it sadly doesn't have passthru, so I left it at setting 1080i. My display is a MIts wdh73833 which I believe supports 1920X1080P24. AVM50v I sent video config 1 to 1920x1080p24.

Due you think my picture quality issues are being caused by the fios box???


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/16292211
> 
> 
> Based on my system, would you recommend I persue the AVM50v or D2V???
> 
> 
> I understand that the primary difference is the added SQ b/w the two, but i am uncertain if my setup would bring out this difference to make up for the jump into the D2V.
> 
> 
> System:
> 
> 
> Pioneer PDP-5060
> 
> B&W 803S
> 
> B&W HTM3S
> 
> B&W SCMS
> 
> 
> My source would be my PS3 and a HD cable box. Currently i have each source going to the plasma so i'm not sure if i would benefit much on the picture quality side. I really prefer to concentrate my upgrade on SQ. THe question is which proc would best balance my system??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THanks



I know there were AT LEAST two forum members who UGRADED

from the AV50 to D2v2 and SAID WOW.


If you search this forum - maybe you can find them I do remember

one was in Canada - I think, One was in NY and I think another was

in my Area Boston.


I have always been a D2 Owner so I can't compare the two units.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16292304
> 
> 
> with the picture quality my fios hd box (motorola QIP62002-2) it sadly doesn't have passthru, so I left it at setting 1080i. My display is a MIts wdh73833 which I believe supports 1920X1080P24. AVM50v I sent video config 1 to 1920x1080p24.
> 
> Due you think my picture quality issues are being caused by the fios box???



No, they are more likely caused by your use of 1080p/24 output to the display.


You should only use that if the source content itself is 1080p/24 -- which means film-based movies from Blu-Ray discs these days. You can not currently convert /60 input to /24 output.


So change your Video Output from the AVM 50v to 1080p/60 and try again.


If you still have problems, lower that to 1080i/60. If 1080i/60 works but 1080p/60 does not work then you have HDMI cabling issues -- i.e., either your source input cables or the output cable to your display are not quite up to the task -- or your display doesn't support 1080p/60 input even though it does support 1080p/24.


If even 1080i/60 is giving you problems then go back to basics and take another look at your setup. Use the built in test patterns (Video Source Adjust > Patterns) to produce video without using any sources. See if you get clean video from those. Check Setup > Video Output to be sure you have it set up correctly. Also confirm you have Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock = OFF.


If that works, check your Setup > Source Setup configurations. Be sure each source is selecting the Video Output configuration you want it to use.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/16292211
> 
> 
> Based on my system, would you recommend I persue the AVM50v or D2V???
> 
> 
> I understand that the primary difference is the added SQ b/w the two, but i am uncertain if my setup would bring out this difference to make up for the jump into the D2V.
> 
> 
> System:
> 
> 
> Pioneer PDP-5060
> 
> B&W 803S
> 
> B&W HTM3S
> 
> B&W SCMS
> 
> 
> My source would be my PS3 and a HD cable box. Currently i have each source going to the plasma so i'm not sure if i would benefit much on the picture quality side. I really prefer to concentrate my upgrade on SQ. THe question is which proc would best balance my system??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THanks



That's a tough question. We have plenty of posters here who think the D2 and D2v sound better than the AVM 50 and AVM 50v -- even posters who ended up getting the AVM 50 or AVM 50v for cost reasons. But whether you will hear that difference yourself with your equipment in your setup, and whether it will make enough difference to you to justify the cost is something only you can figure out.


The AVM 50v is no slouch when it comes to audio, but my advice remains that if you can afford the price difference you will not regret getting the D2v instead. This is particularly true if you think you might be upgrading other aspects of your setup (e.g., new speakers) over the next few years.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/16292101
> 
> 
> Recently ordered a new D2v2. I was a proud owner of the original D2 but sold it in favor of an Integra DTC9.8 and a high end scaler simply for the advanced codecs and the idea that I could get better video with the scaler.
> 
> 
> In my currrent setup I am running the 2 main channels from my Integra to my Conrad Johnson CT-6 tube pre and using a unity gain( HT bypass). This allow me to use the CJ for my 2 channel with a Consonance 2.0 Ref SACD player and my beloved Rega P5 tt and video through the Integra without disconnecting cables and works great. I currently own an Oppo 970 on the recommendtion of this forum and it is nice for SD DVD, DV-A and Pioneer Elite BDP-05FD.
> 
> 
> Is the Universal music player of choice still the Oppo line?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Lou



Welcome back! Oppo has a new Blu-Ray player, the BDP-83, which is not quite done. It is a "universal" player. It is in very limited release right now. See the BDP-83 "Early Adopter" thread in the Blu-Ray players forum. Check out the first post in that thread. The Manual is on-line and there is also an excellent FAQ linked from that post. Oppo is still working out problems in that player.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

Thanks Bob,


I will do that when I get home from work. I want to leave now! Its killing me that I couldn't figure it out yesterday.

I hope its not my monster hdmi cables, the three weren't cheap.

Funny thing is I didn't have this issue with the AVM50.

the sound is incredible







arc is amazing....

still trying to figure out how to attach graphs. (try to attach but get invalid error message)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The AVM 50v supports "Deep Color" HDMI connections. That requires higher bandwidth on the cables. Just take it a step at a time. 480p (not 480i) will be the "simplest" resolution for the cables to deal with. If things work at 480p (both input and output) then you can be pretty certain the hardware is working and it is either cabling issues or you are trying to get the display to do something it can't support.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/16292211
> 
> 
> Based on my system, would you recommend I persue the AVM50v or D2V???
> 
> 
> I understand that the primary difference is the added SQ b/w the two, but i am uncertain if my setup would bring out this difference to make up for the jump into the D2V.
> 
> 
> System:
> 
> 
> Pioneer PDP-5060
> 
> B&W 803S
> 
> B&W HTM3S
> 
> B&W SCMS
> 
> 
> My source would be my PS3 and a HD cable box. Currently i have each source going to the plasma so i'm not sure if i would benefit much on the picture quality side. I really prefer to concentrate my upgrade on SQ. THe question is which proc would best balance my system??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THanks



I have never owned the AVM50. I went straight for the D2. If you really prefer to concentrate your upgrade on SQ, then the D2V is what you should get. Like I said, I have never owned the AVM50, and I really don't know how good the SQ is; but, from the posting on this thread, the knod goes to the D2 over the AVM50 for SQ. Besides, if you get the AVM50V, you will probably always wonder "what if". What would the D2V sound like with my set up? If I were in your shoes and could afford the D2V, that's what I would do. Honestly, AVM50V or the D2V, you can't go wrong especially since both of them come with ARC. Good luck on your decision. Once you do get the Anthem, let us know so that Bob P. can welcome you to the Cool Kids Club.


----------



## shawnwalters

For what it's worth, the majority of responses you will get here are the d2v is the winner. I even think that it is and I have an AVM50v. That said when I was making the upgrade to the Anthem from my Denon 3808, I was trying to justify in my mind if it was an additional $2000 better, especially considering at the time I was pretty happy with my Denon - I just wanted to see if I was missing out on anything with this whole "separates thing". So I went with the Anthem AVM50v as my dealer and even a rep for Anthem said it was 85-90% of the product the d2v is. Well I am extremely happy with my AVM50v. Now that I know how much better this thing is than my denon receiver as a pre pro - I would have upgraded a long time ago. ARC alone is worth atleast several thousand imo.


Now with all of that said - if I didn't have a budget I would have bought the d2v instead. My problem was I was already about $20,000 over budget at the time on my theater build and equipment and I had to make a choice.


When it's time to upgrade again though - now that I know the quality of the Anthem and the impact that it makes - I will spend the extra money on the d2v or the equivalent at that time. I love my Anthem - it's probably my favorite purchase that I have made in my system, with the exception of choosing an AT scope setup.


I guess I didn't help too much, but in a nutshell - you can't go wrong with either product. The d2v is better, but also more expensive.


----------



## slots1

Bob

The way the sale guy explained the REL sub connection to the left and right speaker that it is extended the sub bass on these two full range speakers.

But, your explaination that the Anthem takes the LFE and the bass from all the chanels and mixes them sounds better. You can use the .1 (lfe) also with the REL. Anyone have any experience with them and the D2?

Thanks again Bob.

Gerry


----------



## peechus

took delivery of D2v jan 28.Sony vaio w/vista wouldn't work with quatech serial express card. after much gnashing of teeth and experimenting found the aaxeon msc-401a1 to be ticket. is software v2.04 and arc version v2.1 the latest downloads? sounds great waiters.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/16293453
> 
> 
> took delivery of D2v jan 28.Sony vaio w/vista wouldn't work with quatech serial express card. after much gnashing of teeth and experimenting found the aaxeon msc-401a1 to be ticket. is software v2.04 and arc version v2.1 the latest downloads? sounds great waiters.



Yes, firmware V2.04, and ARC V2.1 are what you want.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/16293326
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> The way the sale guy explained the REL sub connection to the left and right speaker that it is extended the sub bass on these two full range speakers.
> 
> But, your explaination that the Anthem takes the LFE and the bass from all the chanels and mixes them sounds better. You can use the .1 (lfe) also with the REL. Anyone have any experience with them and the D2?
> 
> Thanks again Bob.
> 
> Gerry



Presuming you can disable any crossover built in to that LFE input, that's the way to go. Configure ARC with your one sub and hook it up to the sub output of the Anthem (only). That will get you the best, most automatic setup from ARC.

--Bob


----------



## ehlarson

Now that Anthem is shipping again could people receiving new D2V's please post the date their order was placed? It would be a help to those who have backordered units judge when the might be getting their units.


Thanks.


----------



## Narses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/16277707
> 
> 
> I am considering replacing my Sunfire sub with a REL sub. They connect not to the LFE output, but to positive on right speaker and positive on left and then one negative. How will ARC recognize this. Should I just take out the sub in setup and it would pick up the sub as part of the left and right speaker in the calculation. It is on demo now and I have not changed any of the arc settings. I was going to wait until I could upgrade my D2 to a D2v. I might be even older then I am now by the time that happens. Also, anyone using REL subs with their D2?



I am using REL B2 with with a Statement 2. What I found best was connect both the low and high end outputs. Dial in the REL for 2-channel using the speaker outputs using the REL controls. Do the same for the LFE channels. Use the crossover in the REL for the speaker level outs, but do not use the REL crossover on the LFE - will use the Anthem. I found that telling the Anthem that you don't have a sub and routing the info to the L/R muddied up the L/R channels with some recordings. Some of the .1 channels go up to fairly high frequencies although they should not. Also keeps your L/R from being sent really low frequency info from the .1 channel which they may have trouble reproducing.


PS: The REL B series are great subs - much better than the SVS I had earlier (of course more expensive) - especially good for music - very crisp bass - never muddy and slow.


----------



## Narses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16293068
> 
> 
> I have never owned the AVM50. I went straight for the D2. If you really prefer to concentrate your upgrade on SQ, then the D2V is what you should get. Like I said, I have never owned the AVM50, and I really don't know how good the SQ is; but, from the posting on this thread, the knod goes to the D2 over the AVM50 for SQ. Besides, if you get the AVM50V, you will probably always wonder "what if". What would the D2V sound like with my set up? If I were in your shoes and could afford the D2V, that's what I would do. Honestly, AVM50V or the D2V, you can't go wrong especially since both of them come with ARC. Good luck on your decision. Once you do get the Anthem, let us know so that Bob P. can welcome you to the Cool Kids Club.



I would second those who say go for the D2v for sound quality. I have not had an AV-50 - but I did have an AVM-20v2 which should have similar sound quality to the 50 (except no ARC) - I found the D2 has much better sound.


What amp are you using? With the speakers you have you should be able to notice the difference.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Narses* /forum/post/16294709
> 
> 
> I am using REL B2 with with a Statement 2. What I found best was connect both the low and high end outputs. Dial in the REL for 2-channel using the speaker outputs using the REL controls. Do the same for the LFE channels. Use the crossover in the REL for the speaker level outs, but do not use the REL crossover on the LFE - will use the Anthem. I found that telling the Anthem that you don't have a sub and routing the info to the L/R muddied up the L/R channels with some recordings. Some of the .1 channels go up to fairly high frequencies although they should not. Also keeps your L/R from being sent really low frequency info from the .1 channel which they may have trouble reproducing.
> 
> 
> PS: The REL B series are great subs - much better than the SVS I had earlier (of course more expensive) - especially good for music - very crisp bass - never muddy and slow.



Were you using ARC in your Setup? I think ARC users will find it better to do as I've suggested. Just hook the sub to the subwoofer output of the Anthem (i.e., configure it as a "normal" subwoofer) and let ARC figure out how to do the bass steering.


If you hook it up both ways you are likely not going to get the best out of ARC if for no other reason than you are asking ARC to do separate corrections for bass frequencies that are going to the SAME speaker (the sub).


Again, there is no need to attach the sub to the LF/RF feed lines if all you are trying to do is increase the bass extension of LF/RF. ARC will do that for you automatically -- sending the steered bass out through the subwoofer output mixed with the LFE content destined for the sub in the first place.


LFE gets handled specially by ARC so it is not impacted by the bass steering crossover ARC uses to manage the low end extension of the other speakers.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Hello. I dont suppose there is any type of trick to get the 12 volt triggers to work? I have read throught the manual and set the source to "*" for when I want the masking on the screen to be triggered but alas.. nothing happens. I do know the screen and connection is working since I hooked up another 12 volt source (12 volt power bar) and the screen does lower.


Please tell me I do not have to send the D2 back for another month just to get the 12 volt trigger to work!


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16295205
> 
> 
> Hello. I dont suppose there is any type of trick to get the 12 volt triggers to work? I have read throught the manual and set the source to "*" for when I want the masking on the screen to be triggered but alas.. nothing happens. I do know the screen and connection is working since I hooked up another 12 volt source (12 volt power bar) and the screen does lower.
> 
> 
> Please tell me I do not have to send the D2 back for another month just to get the 12 volt trigger to work!



I had an issue with this too. Turns out swapping the trigger cable out worked. I know it sounds stupid, but you may want to try it. The radio shack part# I use is: 42-2420.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16295205
> 
> 
> Hello. I dont suppose there is any type of trick to get the 12 volt triggers to work? I have read throught the manual and set the source to "*" for when I want the masking on the screen to be triggered but alas.. nothing happens. I do know the screen and connection is working since I hooked up another 12 volt source (12 volt power bar) and the screen does lower.
> 
> 
> Please tell me I do not have to send the D2 back for another month just to get the 12 volt trigger to work!



In Setup > Triggers, IR, RS232, confirm that you have ALL TRIGGERS = Enabled.


Make sure you have the "*" in both the correct row AND column -- i.e., trigger off that source when selected on the Main path. For testing, try setting the "*" to turn on the trigger whenever that path is powered (the first row) just to make sure you aren't confusing yourself with which source entries to "*".


Be sure you are plugged into the 12 Volt trigger output jacks. They are just to the left of the RS-232 socket when you face the back of the Anthem. We've had more than one poster here get confused and use either the IR Emitter jacks or the Powered IR Receiver block which are both to the right of the RS-232 socket. Be sure that the trigger you have enabled with the "*" is the one you are are actually plugged in to.


The plug you want for the trigger jack is a MONO mini jack. If you get a stereo mini jack it may not make proper electrical contact. The Radio Shack part number Shawn just gave you is correct. Also, make sure the plug is fully inserted in the socket so that it makes proper electrical contact.


Most trigger-capable devices don't care about the voltage polarity of the 12 volt trigger. But just in case, the Anthem puts out +12V on the "tip" and Ground on the "sleeve". If your device insists on a -12V trigger just cut the cable at some point and swap the two wires.


ETA: Also be aware that changes to the Trigger setup table DO NOT TAKE EFFECT UNTIL YOU EXIT THE SETUP MENU. This is to keep odd triggering from happening while you are setting up the table of triggers.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

Got my video settings corrected and WOW, avm50v is much improved compared to my avm50.

Thanks Bob !


SQ is amazing my speakers came alive due to arc.


----------



## Johnsteph10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16294056
> 
> 
> Now that Anthem is shipping again could people receiving new D2V's please post the date their order was placed? It would be a help to those who have backordered units judge when the might be getting their units.
> 
> 
> Thanks.




I ordered March 1st....I still haven't heard if I made the April 17th shipment or not!


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16296932
> 
> 
> I ordered March 1st....I still haven't heard if I made the April 17th shipment or not!



Yes, communications from Anthem on expected delivery dates could be better. That is why I asked that people receiving new units post their order dates.


----------



## zuesmaximus

Ordered my Anthem March 20th

received it April 17th.


----------



## J. FRICANO

Hello Everyone, I too have a REL, a Stadium II , and had it hooked up with high and low level inputs and it seemed to get weird results with ARC. With Bob's suggestion I disconnected the high level inputs and let ARC do it's thing and it sounded VERY much smoother and better integrated with the front array of my theater set up. The Stadium does not use any crossover with the low level input so there was no other configuration necessary. My mains go pretty low and ARC still set the crossover to 60 Hz. but it sounds great and I have no reason to mess with the results so far. Hope this helps. Thanks again Bob for all your invaluable help!! John.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16296871
> 
> 
> Got my video settings corrected and WOW, avm50v is much improved compared to my avm50.
> 
> Thanks Bob !
> 
> 
> SQ is amazing my speakers came alive due to arc.



That's probably why these guys are headed your way!











I hope you have extra popcorn!

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

Come on over









I'm very happy with my purchase, would highly recommend.

Now I just have to correctly setup my new BD player. Pioneer unit.

I couldn't wait for the OPPO


----------



## zuesmaximus

The only bad thing is now I'm thinking about upgrading the avm50 from the home theater to avm50v


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16297542
> 
> 
> Come on over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm very happy with my purchase, would highly recommend.
> 
> Now I just have to correctly setup my new BD player. Pioneer unit.
> 
> I couldn't wait for the OPPO



Congrats on the new "v".


Im in need of a new Blueray player as well (my PS3 is on the fritz)...I doubt i can wait for the OPPO either, unfortunately. How are you liking that pioneer?


----------



## zuesmaximus

Thank you...


I have yet to fire up the Pioneer but I will post what I think of if today. I have to decide which BD will be the first on the new setup. Lots to choose from







.


I've notice with arc; it lowered my sunfire trusub to -10db.

Should I crank it up abit?


Manny


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No. That's an indication that the volume knob on your sub is cranked up too high. Before you do your next ARC Measurement pass, do the exercise to set Test Level and the volume in your sub to 75dB SPL.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

The sub was set by using sunfire EQ which has its own mic kit(test by sound sweeps).

But I will do....

Thanks Bob


Manny


----------



## Mupi

I know this thread is not about the AVM 20 but since the remote is probably common for AVM 20,30,40 and 50 I thought of asking here. Even if the remote is not the same I am sure someone here knows about the remote. I didnt want to start a new thread as it would get lost.


I have the AVM 20 V2.21 which I just bought from Audiogon. I am not sure which year it is but the box says AVM 20 V2.0 and later the original owner upgraded to V2.21


My problem is that the remote wont work other components like my OPPO 980DVD player or the Comcast cable box (Motorola 6200) or the Yamaha 663 AVR. I dont see the codes for these in the manual and also the learning option didnt detect these components.


I was wondering if I bought a new remote from Anthem would that remote work these components since my remote is probably too old and does not have the codes for these newer components. If a new remote is 50 bucks or something I would but it provided it has the codes for the newer components like OPPO 980, 983 etc. I dont want to buy some universal remote as I just want some basic functions like turning the components on, changing volume, changing channel etc. So if the Anthem remote can do it I would just get the new one. Also I like the anthem remote. I never liked those universal remotes due to button placement.


Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16297922
> 
> 
> The sub was set by using sunfire EQ which has its own mic kit(test by sound sweeps).
> 
> But I will do....
> 
> Thanks Bob
> 
> 
> Manny



The levels ARC finds best can be a bit surprising, but they really are right.


By the way if you are still using the EQ in the sub, you should try turning it off. Let ARC do all the work. Be sure you have disabled any crossover in the sub as well.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16295250
> 
> 
> I had an issue with this too. Turns out swapping the trigger cable out worked. I know it sounds stupid, but you may want to try it. The radio shack part# I use is: 42-2420.



I will give that a try. Thanks and will let you know. If this cures the problem it will be the "terminated mono tip" as I know the the calble portion is recieving and passing the signal due to my test with anothe 12 volt power brick.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mupi* /forum/post/16297974
> 
> 
> I know this thread is not about the AVM 20 but since the remote is probably common for AVM 20,30,40 and 50 I thought of asking here. Even if the remote is not the same I am sure someone here knows about the remote. I didnt want to start a new thread as it would get lost.
> 
> 
> I have the AVM 20 V2.21 which I just bought from Audiogon. I am not sure which year it is but the box says AVM 20 V2.0 and later the original owner upgraded to V2.21
> 
> 
> My problem is that the remote wont work other components like my OPPO 980DVD player or the Comcast cable box (Motorola 6200) or the Yamaha 663 AVR. I dont see the codes for these in the manual and also the learning option didnt detect these components.
> 
> 
> I was wondering if I bought a new remote from Anthem would that remote work these components since my remote is probably too old and does not have the codes for these newer components. If a new remote is 50 bucks or something I would but it provided it has the codes for the newer components like OPPO 980, 983 etc. I dont want to buy some universal remote as I just want some basic functions like turning the components on, changing volume, changing channel etc. So if the Anthem remote can do it I would just get the new one. Also I like the anthem remote. I never liked those universal remotes due to button placement.
> 
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks



Appendix B of the latest D2v manual presumably reflects the latest set of built in codes in the Anthem remotes. There are no DVD player listings for Oppo.


It is possible, but not likely, that the auto detect function will pick up the Oppo code set in the latest Anthem remote. You should send an email to Anthem tech support to get some clarity on this before you pay for a new Anthem remote.


However, your best solution here is likely to get a decent programmable remote such as one of the Logitech/Harmony products. Use that instead of your Anthem remote and you'll have coverage for your other devices as well. I'm using a Harmony 880 myself.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16295280
> 
> 
> In Setup > Triggers, IR, RS232, confirm that you have ALL TRIGGERS = Enabled.
> 
> 
> Make sure you have the "*" in both the correct row AND column -- i.e., trigger off that source when selected on the Main path. For testing, try setting the "*" to turn on the trigger whenever that path is powered (the first row) just to make sure you aren't confusing yourself with which source entries to "*".
> 
> 
> Be sure you are plugged into the 12 Volt trigger output jacks. They are just to the left of the RS-232 socket when you face the back of the Anthem. We've had more than one poster here get confused and use either the IR Emitter jacks or the Powered IR Receiver block which are both to the right of the RS-232 socket. Be sure that the trigger you have enabled with the "*" is the one you are are actually plugged in to.
> 
> 
> The plug you want for the trigger jack is a MONO mini jack. If you get a stereo mini jack it may not make proper electrical contact. The Radio Shack part number Shawn just gave you is correct. Also, make sure the plug is fully inserted in the socket so that it makes proper electrical contact.
> 
> 
> Most trigger-capable devices don't care about the voltage polarity of the 12 volt trigger. But just in case, the Anthem puts out +12V on the "tip" and Ground on the "sleeve". If your device insists on a -12V trigger just cut the cable at some point and swap the two wires.
> 
> 
> ETA: Also be aware that changes to the Trigger setup table DO NOT TAKE EFFECT UNTIL YOU EXIT THE SETUP MENU. This is to keep odd triggering from happening while you are setting up the table of triggers.
> 
> --Bob





Thanks Bob. Good suggestion on the + - of the trigger. I am going to swap the leads and see what that does.


I will keep you posted.


-Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16277982
> 
> 
> This is more of a graphics card problem than a pre-pro problem. The issue is that Windows PC's want to constantly renegotiate the display. So when you turn off your pre-pro (or sometimes even switch to a different input), the PC wants to renegotiate. Sometimes this means no display at all, often it means a lower resolution.
> 
> 
> The 100% solution to this is a DVI Doctor or DVI Detective. (You don't need an overpriced underfunctional card like the HDAV, that's just a waste of money).
> 
> 
> Anyway, for anyone with a HTPC, you should budget for a DVI Doctor/Detective, as well as AnyDVD HD. Both are necessities for a stable HTPC environment.



Hello,


The HDMI renegociation improvement was a by-product of the HDAV.

The objective was to get an HDMI output for audio.

How would I have gotten that without the HDAV? This is the only HDMI card on the market at the moment, right?


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16298214
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Good suggestion on the + - of the trigger. I am going to swap the leads and see what that does.
> 
> 
> I will keep you posted.
> 
> 
> -Bob



THAT DID IT BOB! Great suggestion! Many cookies to you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16298266
> 
> 
> THAT DID IT BOB! Great suggestion! Many cookies to you.



How 'bout that! *happily munching cookies*










--Bob


----------



## Hawaii AV

I am a long time Anthem D2/D2v owner and user, a reader but first time contributor to this forum. My D2v is a wonderful centerpiece to my dedicated home theater, but it seems to be very high maintenance. The D2v often drops audio when switching between components, or does not output either video or sound (although the display indicates such is functioning) after making a setting adjustment. This has been resolved by manually turning the D2v off and on (resetting?). Somewhat annoying when friends are over, but I have accepted it as being temperamental.


Of late, the D2v does not hold its settings if there is any kind of attempt at saving the settings (for example when using ARC). The recalled user or installer settings do not hold and actually change all settings back to factory default. This problem (I think) arose when trying to adjust settings via Editor, now I cannot even save' user settings as I get an error message saying something about the factory default.


May be part of the same overall problem, but now the D2v will not manually turn on. I can get it up by reinstalling the 2.04 firmware, but as soon as ARC is loaded, etc. I have trouble having it boot up (by hand or remote). I get a message on the display but no functionality or light up of the various system buttons/lights.


Is there something I have done/can do to have this unit fully up and running. Greatly appreciate any direction or assistance. THANK YOU FOR ANY INSIGHTS!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hawaii AV* /forum/post/16298410
> 
> 
> I am a long time Anthem D2/D2v owner and user, a reader but first time contributor to this forum. My D2v is a wonderful centerpiece to my dedicated home theater, but it seems to be very high maintenance. The D2v often drops audio when switching between components, or does not output either video or sound (although the display indicates such is functioning) after making a setting adjustment. This has been resolved by manually turning the D2v off and on (resetting?). Somewhat annoying when friends are over, but I have accepted it as being temperamental.
> 
> 
> Of late, the D2v does not hold its settings if there is any kind of attempt at saving the settings (for example when using ARC). The recalled user or installer settings do not hold and actually change all settings back to factory default. This problem (I think) arose when trying to adjust settings via Editor, now I cannot even save' user settings as I get an error message saying something about the factory default.
> 
> 
> May be part of the same overall problem, but now the D2v will not manually turn on. I can get it up by reinstalling the 2.04 firmware, but as soon as ARC is loaded, etc. I have trouble having it boot up (by hand or remote). I get a message on the display but no functionality or light up of the various system buttons/lights.
> 
> 
> Is there something I have done/can do to have this unit fully up and running. Greatly appreciate any direction or assistance. THANK YOU FOR ANY INSIGHTS!!



First of all, welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!


I think you should get in touch with Anthem tech support on Monday. It is possible that there is some external thing doing this (e.g., a shorted cable that is drawing down the power supply, or even low voltage on your power plug), but it sounds to me like you have a hardware failure.


In either case, this sort of stuff is much easier to diagnose if you are on the phone so that you can go back and forth more easily as to what to try next.


Your original problem (loss of audio) could be due to marginal HDMI cables, but you've got a much more serious problem now, so the first order of business is to sort out why you can't power up reliably and why you can't operate with ARC results loaded. Again, give Anthem a call and give them a chance to work through the problem with you. Unfortunately this means you'll have to get up pretty early in the morning due to the 6 hour time zone difference between Toronto and Hawaii.


They will probably ask you to disconnect cables at some point to eliminate the possibility that a cable failure or a failure in one of your connected devices is the root cause here. So if you need to move things so you can get to the cables while on the phone do that this afternoon.


Oh, and if you have to leave a message for them initially, be sure you let them know about the time zone difference.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Bob

Again thanks for the issue on the REL. Is anyone using Mark Seaton's subs with their D2, D2v? They sound like they are pretty awesome.


I have both the Harmony 880 and 890. If you need rf then get the 890. They are both wonderful and easy to change when you change components.


----------



## shawnwalters

I just picked up a pioneer 51fd bd player to replace my panny bd30. However, I don't think it currently decodes dts master hd, but it does stream it via hdmi which is what I use. My question is if this will be as good as a player that decodes it onboard when paired with the anthem? Any drawbacks?


Thanks

Shawn


----------



## thevendetta

Argh! I want my gear!


----------



## AbMagFab

Okay, so I have 4 HDMI devices plugged into my D2v (PS3, XB360, Tivo S3, HTPC), and it's been working flawlessly. I can power up to any device, switch around, etc., and never have a problem.


I just added my first analog device (analog audio, component 480p video). Now, the D2v is strangely unstable whenever I switch to/from the new device. My symptoms range from:

- Pink screen film on the component device, then freezing if I switch to any HDMI device

- No sound on anything when switching between devices, and the volume control shows db changing

- Complete random freeze at some point within 5 minutes of switching


Alternatively, it can be stable with no problems as well. I honestly don't use this analog device all that much, but I've gone from *zero* problems to suddenly lots of problems, only when switching to/from this device. Unfortunately, it's not easily reproducable, as it seems totally random and hits about 10-20% of the time.


What's up with that? Are there some special settiings I need to do for analog audio to help with this? I currently have it set to do as much audio improvement as possible, but that's it.


TIA for any advice.


----------



## facedogg

I have an interesting situation that may be user error...I have a directv hr-20 satellite box attached to my avm50 via HDMI. To watch Penguin hockey games, I simulcast audio that comes into the avm50 via coax audio from the SPDIF output of a PC. During intermissions, I'll select just the TV1 input, which then also uses the directv audio. The problem occurs every time I switch back to the simulcast audio: there isn't any there. To get it back, I have to pull and replace the coax audio cable and everything is fine again. Do I need to configure something to allow this, or is this a legit problem?


--Mike


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16283594
> 
> 
> If the horizontal interference lines are fairly widely spaced and move slowly up the screen then this is a classic case of 60Hz power line interference. The refresh rate for what's called 60Hz video is actually 59.94Hz for technical reasons, so true power line interference (which really is 60Hz) happens a little bit faster than the screen refresh rate -- so the lines scroll upwards.
> 
> 
> Poorly shielded component cables could be picking up this interference from power lines running near them. Fix that with better cables or by repositioning the cables (cross power lines at right angles rather than running along side of them).
> 
> 
> 60Hz power line interference can also be due to a ground loop -- garbage gets into your set of equipment from some external source and travels from device to device along the cable shields of the cables connecting them. The single most common source of such stuff is a cable or satellite feed which is not properly grounded where it enters your house, or not properly shielded from that point to your receiver box.
> 
> 
> Temporarily disconnect the feed line between the wall and your cable/satellite set top box. If the interference lines go away, then that's the culprit. This can be fixed by better grounding the feed at the point where it enters your house and by making sure the connections between there and your set top box are tight and free of corrosion. For cable feeds (but not satellite feeds) there are also cheap gizmos called ground blockers that you can put between the feed line and your set top box. They separate the cable shield of the feed line from the cable shield of your set top box so the garbage can't get in that way. You can't do the same thing with satellite feeds because the cable shield is used to carry DC switching voltage to the satellite dish to tell it which satellite signals you want to receive at the moment.
> 
> 
> Power line interference can also come from using different power feeds for different boxes in your setup.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If it turns out you really do have ground loop garbage present in your system, I wouldn't be at all surprised to discover that is also the cause of the hiss/hum problem you have been having.
> 
> 
> So eliminating the cause of the interference lines for component video may also eliminate your hiss/hum problem!
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


It seems as though the interference was due to the component cables. I've changed them and lines are gone. However, hum/hiss is not.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16299054
> 
> 
> Okay, so I have 4 HDMI devices plugged into my D2v (PS3, XB360, Tivo S3, HTPC), and it's been working flawlessly. I can power up to any device, switch around, etc., and never have a problem.
> 
> 
> I just added my first analog device (analog audio, component 480p video). Now, the D2v is strangely unstable whenever I switch to/from the new device. My symptoms range from:
> 
> - Pink screen film on the component device, then freezing if I switch to any HDMI device
> 
> - No sound on anything when switching between devices, and the volume control shows db changing
> 
> - Complete random freeze at some point within 5 minutes of switching
> 
> 
> Alternatively, it can be stable with no problems as well. I honestly don't use this analog device all that much, but I've gone from *zero* problems to suddenly lots of problems, only when switching to/from this device. Unfortunately, it's not easily reproducable, as it seems totally random and hits about 10-20% of the time.
> 
> 
> What's up with that? Are there some special settiings I need to do for analog audio to help with this? I currently have it set to do as much audio improvement as possible, but that's it.
> 
> 
> TIA for any advice.



Double check your Source Setup for the new device. Make sure you are using the Video Output configuration that you have set up for use with your other sources. Also check Video Source Adjust > Output to make sure Frame Lock is OFF.


The loss of audio and the random freezes are probably an HDMI handshake issue on the display side, that's why I'm pointing you at things you might have done for the new source that would screw up its video output to the display.


As confusing as it appears, this is probably something simple. So go back to basics and review everything you've done to set up this new source.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16300863
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> It seems as though the interference was due to the component cables. I've changed them and lines are gone. However, hum/hiss is not.



Oh well. If simply replacing the cables got rid of the interference, then the interference was not due to a ground loop -- so no surprise it didn't fix the hum/hiss problem.


You might STILL have ground loop from your cable/satellite feed. So try disconnecting that feed line (between the wall and your set top box) and see if you can still make the hum/hiss happen.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facedogg* /forum/post/16299066
> 
> 
> I have an interesting situation that may be user error...I have a directv hr-20 satellite box attached to my avm50 via HDMI. To watch Penguin hockey games, I simulcast audio that comes into the avm50 via coax audio from the SPDIF output of a PC. During intermissions, I'll select just the TV1 input, which then also uses the directv audio. The problem occurs every time I switch back to the simulcast audio: there isn't any there. To get it back, I have to pull and replace the coax audio cable and everything is fine again. Do I need to configure something to allow this, or is this a legit problem?
> 
> 
> --Mike



I'm not sure I follow what you are doing. Are you trying to use the Simulcast feature in the AVM 50 (Section 4.4.2 of the Manual)?


The only thing I can think of that might be related to this is if you have Auto Dig ON in the Source Setup either for your DirecTV source or your PC source.


But I haven't used Simulcast a lot, so you may have found a new bug. Send an email to Anthem tech support with details and see what they say.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16298059
> 
> 
> The levels ARC finds best can be a bit surprising, but they really are right.
> 
> 
> By the way if you are still using the EQ in the sub, you should try turning it off. Let ARC do all the work. Be sure you have disabled any crossover in the sub as well.
> 
> --Bob



Will do Bob

I will rerun arc with sunfire EQ off, can't wait to hear result










Manny


----------



## shawnwalters

Sorry if this has been covered before. I checked the first post and saw some talk of a 1080i bug, but didn't see the same problems being mentioned.


Anyway, last night I was playing with the source direct video settings on my blu ray player and noticed that on the blu ray I was watching, it was outputting 1080p to the Anthem, and when I looked at the Anthem it said the input was 1080p and the output was just "Auto". So I looked on my JVC RS10's info screen and it said the input source was 1080i60. The 1080i60 setting also happens when I leave the blu ray player at 1080p output.


So I went into the Anthem's setup menu for video out and selected the resolution to output 1080p60. The screen flickered for a minute and it came back on. I checked my JVC again and now it said it was 1080p60.


So why would the auto setting set it to 1080i60? Should/can I just leave it in 1080p60 in the Anthem's setup menu?


On a totally separate note, I think I read here that letting the blu ray player do the decoding (PCM) is preferred to sending the source over to the anthem to decode?


Thanks


----------



## Doozer428

I checked my receipts, I ordered my D2v the first week of February. However, my dealer was aware that I didn't need it until April 1st, so they tried to time the order to arrive then. This of course was disrupted by the parts delay.


My best guesstimate of when they actually ordered it is March 14th (about 2 weeks before my anticipated delivery). I was told I was #5 on the waiting list as of early last week. So I should be getting it tomorrow assuming it shipped out on Friday (the store is closed Mondays).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16303134
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been covered before. I checked the first post and saw some talk of a 1080i bug, but didn't see the same problems being mentioned.
> 
> 
> Anyway, last night I was playing with the source direct video settings on my blu ray player and noticed that on the blu ray I was watching, it was outputting 1080p to the Anthem, and when I looked at the Anthem it said the input was 1080p and the output was just "Auto". So I looked on my JVC RS10's info screen and it said the input source was 1080i60. The 1080i60 setting also happens when I leave the blu ray player at 1080p output.
> 
> 
> So I went into the Anthem's setup menu for video out and selected the resolution to output 1080p60. The screen flickered for a minute and it came back on. I checked my JVC again and now it said it was 1080p60.
> 
> 
> So why would the auto setting set it to 1080i60? Should/can I just leave it in 1080p60 in the Anthem's setup menu?
> 
> 
> On a totally separate note, I think I read here that letting the blu ray player do the decoding (PCM) is preferred to sending the source over to the anthem to decode?
> 
> 
> Thanks



The Auto setting uses whatever resolution the display says it prefers. I imagine your display says it prefers 1080i just in case some source will get unhappy if told to produce 1080p.


If your display accepts 1080p/60 then that's what you should use in the Video Output configuration from the Anthem, not Auto.


-------------------------------------


I continue to recommend that folks use LPCM from decoding Blu-Ray players. But of course with the D2v or AVM 50v you have the choice of using Bitstream instead. With the exception of handling mixed "secondary audio" from Blu-Ray discs there shouldn't be any difference. If you are playing SACD discs then you will need to have the player decode the DSD off of those to LPCM.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16302074
> 
> 
> Will do Bob
> 
> I will rerun arc with sunfire EQ off, can't wait to hear result
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Manny



After you turn the EQ off in the subwoofer (and disable any internal crossover it has), do the exercise to set levels before doing your ARC Measurement.


In Setup > Level Calibration, zero all the lines. Then select Manual test mode in the first line. Scroll down to the next line (Test Level in V2.04, Noise Level in V1.33 firmware). The test tone will be coming from the LF speaker. Adjust the Test Level line to yield (roughly) 75dB SPL. Use your Radio Shack SPL meter at ARC mic position #1, pointing straight up, and set to Slow response and "C" weighting. Hold it at arms length near seated ear height.


Having adjusted that, now scroll down to a subwoofer line -- which is still 0. Leaving that line at 0, adjust the volume knob on your subwoofer to yield (roughly) 75dB SPL measured the same way.


ARC uses the Test Level line to set the volume of its test sweep tones. And by adjusting the volume knob on your sub, you will have put it in roughly the ballpark of your other speakers so that ARC won't have to do anything special to volume trim it to match the other speakers. Ballpark settings are fine. ARC will do the precise adjustments.


Having done this, then do your ARC Measurement pass. The Calculated results should have a basic volume level right around 75dB, and the speaker volume trims ARC Uploads should all be within a few dB either side of 0dB.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16303134
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been covered before. I checked the first post and saw some talk of a 1080i bug, but didn't see the same problems being mentioned.
> 
> 
> Anyway, last night I was playing with the source direct video settings on my blu ray player and noticed that on the blu ray I was watching, it was outputting 1080p to the Anthem, and when I looked at the Anthem it said the input was 1080p and the output was just "Auto". So I looked on my JVC RS10's info screen and it said the input source was 1080i60. The 1080i60 setting also happens when I leave the blu ray player at 1080p output.
> 
> 
> So I went into the Anthem's setup menu for video out and selected the resolution to output 1080p60. The screen flickered for a minute and it came back on. I checked my JVC again and now it said it was 1080p60.
> 
> 
> So why would the auto setting set it to 1080i60? Should/can I just leave it in 1080p60 in the Anthem's setup menu?
> 
> 
> On a totally separate note, I think I read here that letting the blu ray player do the decoding (PCM) is preferred to sending the source over to the anthem to decode?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Well, you're going to love the picture even more now!


Also, make sure you don't unfairly give that new BD player glowing reviews, since most of the picture improvement is likely coming from the 1080p output now, not the new player.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16303662
> 
> 
> The Auto setting uses whatever resolution the display says it prefers. I imagine your display says it prefers 1080i just in case some source will get unhappy if told to produce 1080p.
> 
> 
> If your display accepts 1080p/60 then that's what you should use in the Video Output configuration from the Anthem, not Auto.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I continue to recommend that folks use LPCM from decoding Blu-Ray players. But of course with the D2v or AVM 50v you have the choice of using Bitstream instead. With the exception of handling mixed "secondary audio" from Blu-Ray discs there shouldn't be any difference. If you are playing SACD discs then you will need to have the player decode the DSD off of those to LPCM.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you very much Bob!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16303805
> 
> 
> Well, you're going to love the picture even more now!
> 
> 
> Also, make sure you don't unfairly give that new BD player glowing reviews, since most of the picture improvement is likely coming from the 1080p output now, not the new player.



The improvements I noted were before I looked into it, so they were at all at 1080i60 (Auto). I didn't change it until right before I went to sleep. I suppose I owe it to myself to retest them both now at 1080p60


----------



## Woodrow

Got a quick question: I just had an Anthem P5 repaired under warranty for a blown channel and the dealer is charging me labor since the part was shipped to the dealer rather than the amp being shipped back to Anthem. Just wondering if this is normal? Anthem is telling me it's the dealer's responsibility and the dealer is saying it's Anthem's responsibility but that I'll have to pay the $255 labor before they'll give me my amp back.


Just wondering if anyone else paid the labor for a repair that was under warranty?


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Woodrow* /forum/post/16304374
> 
> 
> Got a quick question: I just had an Anthem P5 repaired under warranty for a blown channel and the dealer is charging me labor since the part was shipped to the dealer rather than the amp being shipped back to Anthem. Just wondering if this is normal? Anthem is telling me it's the dealer's responsibility and the dealer is saying it's Anthem's responsibility but that I'll have to pay the $255 labor before they'll give me my amp back.
> 
> 
> Just wondering if anyone else paid the labor for a repair that was under warranty?



Often warranties will stipulate "parts" or "parts and labour". I would check yours for the specific wording. If it's parts and labour, your dealer is misbehaving.


----------



## Woodrow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16304434
> 
> 
> Often warranties will stipulate "parts" or "parts and labour". I would check yours for the specific wording. If it's parts and labour, your dealer is misbehaving.



Yeah I've talked to Anthem and it's a parts and labor warranty. Anthem isn't happy this is happening but at the same time they are telling me they are a third party and that there may be nothing they can do. The regional rep is supposed to be getting involved but it isn't sounding good so far. I've been without the amp for over a month now and the dealer is wanting me to come get the amp but I can't until this gets resolved. I'm afraid I may end up having to pay the labor on an under warranty repair if I want to get my amp back.










I was kinda hoping everyone here pays the labor and that this was normal but I'm thinking not.


----------



## spiderv6

pay it on a credit card and then dispute it later? i cant really see how this isnt an issue between the dealer and Anthem. If he wants to charge anyone it should be Anthem if he performed the work on their behalf.


I wouldn't let Anthem of the hook so easily........


----------



## Woodrow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16304659
> 
> 
> pay it on a credit card and then dispute it later? i cant really see how this isnt an issue between the dealer and Anthem. If he wants to charge anyone it should be Anthem if he performed the work on their behalf.
> 
> 
> I wouldn't let Anthem of the hook so easily........



Well I wouldn't go that route, but even if I wanted to, I cannot. When my dealer found out I was disputing the labor charge they called and told me that they will only accept cash now.










I'm not letting them off the hook but I'm giving them a fair chance to resolve the issue. I agree with you though, IMO, it should be an issue between the dealer and Anthem and I shouldn't be involved in any discussion of labor charges. Like I said Anthem isn't happy about it so I'm just going to hope that they are able to resolve the issue. Everything else being equal, the main reason I chose this amp was Anthem's warranty and customer service feedback posted on this board. That's why I figured you guys would be the ones to ask about this stuff. I'll update on the outcome. Thanks for the posts guys.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Woodrow* /forum/post/16304374
> 
> 
> Got a quick question: I just had an Anthem P5 repaired under warranty for a blown channel and the dealer is charging me labor since the part was shipped to the dealer rather than the amp being shipped back to Anthem. Just wondering if this is normal? Anthem is telling me it's the dealer's responsibility and the dealer is saying it's Anthem's responsibility but that I'll have to pay the $255 labor before they'll give me my amp back.
> 
> 
> Just wondering if anyone else paid the labor for a repair that was under warranty?



Did your dealer send it to Anthem or did You?


----------



## Woodrow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16304959
> 
> 
> Did your dealer send it to Anthem or did You?



It wasn't sent to Anthem. The dealer had me box it up since they said how it would be repaired was up to them(either shipping back to Anthem or having the part shipped to them). The dealer chose to have the part shipped to them, and they had their tech replace the LS module. Now the dealer wants $255 in labor for replacing the module. Also, the dealer did not call me to authorize any work that would result in a labor charge. I called after 28 days of hearing nothing and they told me it was ready to be picked up for $255 bucks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Woodrow* /forum/post/16305052
> 
> 
> It wasn't sent to Anthem. The dealer had me box it up since they said how it would be repaired was up to them(either shipping back to Anthem or having the part shipped to them). The dealer chose to have the part shipped to them, and they had their tech replace the LS module. Now the dealer wants $255 in labor for replacing the module. Also, the dealer did not call me to authorize any work that would result in a labor charge. I called after 28 days of hearing nothing and they told me it was ready to be picked up for $255 bucks.



OH DEAR - that is the sticky wicket fact that we did not know.


In that case you will probably end up paying.


BTW - I agree that stinks - but it is a different scenario


----------



## Woodrow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16305323
> 
> 
> OH DEAR - that is the sticky wicket fact that we did not know.



I posted that info in my first post.










Anthem is saying the fact that the dealer did not check with me before doing the work is an issue. Anthem would have preferred the amp be sent to them rather than me being charged for labor. But then the dealer would have had to pay shipping on 140 pound amp so it's understandable why they wanted to have the part shipped to them rather than ship the amp to Anthem, but instead of being happy they didn't have to ship the amp they want to charge me for the labor for the module replacement.


The truth of the matter is Anthem should have agreements in place with dealers that resolve these issues before they ever come up. That is where I hold Anthem responsible in all this. This can't be the first time this issue has come up, unless I just have a REALLY bad dealer.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Woodrow* /forum/post/16305394
> 
> 
> I posted that info in my first post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anthem is saying the fact that the dealer did not check with me before doing the work is an issue. Anthem would have preferred the amp be sent to them rather than me being charged for labor. But then the dealer would have had to pay shipping on 140 pound amp so it's understandable why they wanted to have the part shipped to them rather than ship the amp to Anthem, but instead of being happy they didn't have to ship the amp they want to charge me for the labor for the module replacement.
> 
> 
> The truth of the matter is Anthem should have agreements in place with dealers that resolve these issues before they ever come up. That is where I hold Anthem responsible in all this. This can't be the first time this issue has come up, unless I just have a REALLY bad dealer.



I did read your first post - I don't remember that exact detail that the

dealer did the work - I do remember your complaint. I was thinking

Anthem MIGHT have done the repair and the charge was actually

shipping and being called labor.


Even if Anthem had done the repair for FREE - I think the two way

shipping would be at least that much - so maybe you can look at it

in that light.


----------



## Woodrow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16305430
> 
> 
> I did read your first post - I don't remember that exact detail that the
> 
> dealer did the work - I do remember your complaint. I was thinking
> 
> Anthem MIGHT have done the repair and the charge was actually
> 
> shipping and being called labor.
> 
> 
> Even if Anthem had done the repair for FREE - I thing the two way
> 
> shipping would be at least that much - so maybe you can look at it
> 
> in that light.



Well it wouldn't have been me paying the shipping it would have been the dealer as Anthem prefers you go through the dealer on repairs. Although, I believe I'm going to get relief on that one, if I remember right, Nick said I can take care of any future issues directly with Anthem and circumvent this dealer from now on. Heck I'd even be willing to split the labor cost with Anthem just to get my amp back but they have not offered that yet and the principle is preventing me from simply paying the labor charges. I've got an iron clad 5 year parts and labor warranty, that Anthem does not dispute, so the idea of paying the labor is rubbing me the wrong way.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Woodrow* /forum/post/16305497
> 
> 
> Well it wouldn't have been me paying the shipping it would have been the dealer as Anthem prefers you go through the dealer on repairs. Although, I believe I'm going to get relief on that one, if I remember right, Nick said I can take care of any future issues directly with Anthem and circumvent this dealer from now on. Heck I'd even be willing to split the labor cost with Anthem just to get my amp back but they have not offered that yet and the principle is preventing me from simply paying the labor charges. I've got an iron clad 5 year parts and labor warranty, that Anthem does not dispute, so the idea of paying the labor is rubbing me the wrong way.



I don't think there is ever FREE Shipping. I have had work done

on AV gear - direct with the Manufacturer and shipping has never

been free - the REPAIR was FREE.


Some of the gear has been HEAVY and I had to eat the Shipping

but the labor and parts were always free.


----------



## Woodrow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16305531
> 
> 
> I don't think there is ever FREE Shipping. I have had work done
> 
> on AV gear - direct with the Manufacturer and shipping has never
> 
> been free - the REPAIR was FREE.
> 
> 
> Some of the gear has been HEAVY and I had to eat the Shipping
> 
> but the labor and parts were always free.



I'd have been fine paying the shipping as long as I was the one who shipped it and the issue stayed between Anthem and myself and the dealer was left out of the loop. I was never offered that option. I suppose I would have even been willing to let the dealer do the shipping, and pay the for the shipping myself, but again, I was not offered that option. The only option offered to to me was to bring it in and let them handle it with the agreement that the amp was under a full parts and labor warranty. The dealer and I confirmed this together before I ever left the amp with them. I even told them that Anthem would most likely want to ship the part rather than having the amp shipped and their response was "that would be great it will save us on the shipping".


----------



## Woodrow

FWIW, I had my AVM 30 repaired for a blown capacitor and the dealer shipped it to Anthem and back, and I was not charged shipping, or for anything. Had it back in my rack in under two weeks. My guess is this issue arises due to the weight of the amp and nobody wants to take responsibility for shipping, or the labor that will inevitably be involved if it is not shipped back for repair but is instead repaired on site.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Woodrow* /forum/post/16305599
> 
> 
> I'd have been fine paying the shipping as long as I was the one who shipped it and the issue stayed between Anthem and myself and the dealer was left out of the loop. I was never offered that option. I suppose I would have even been willing to let the dealer do the shipping, and pay the for the shipping myself, but again, I was not offered that option. The only option offered to to me was to bring it in and let them handle it with the agreement that the amp was under a full parts and labor warranty. The dealer and I confirmed this together before I ever left the amp with them. I even told them that Anthem would most likely want to ship the part rather than having the amp shipped and their response was "that would be great it will save us on the shipping".



Good luck with your dispute - something tells me you might

be finding a NEW AV dealer for FUTURE equipment.


----------



## Woodrow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16305685
> 
> 
> Good luck with your dispute - something tells me you might
> 
> be finding a NEW AV dealer for FUTURE equipment.



Oh yeah, I think we're done. They won't be upset. They wouldn't even SELL me my AVM 30 without a call from Nick. They said before they would sell me any Anthem products that I would have to purchase a full custom home theater install from them.







You can imagine how well that went over with the guys at Anthem.







Needless to say I got my AVM 30 and I bought the P5 just to irritate the dealer further(just kidding).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Woodrow* /forum/post/16305707
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, I think we're done. They won't be upset. They wouldn't even SELL me my AVM 30 without a call from Nick. They said before they would sell me any Anthem products that I would have to purchase a full custom home theater install from them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can imagine how well that went over with the guys at Anthem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needless to say I got my AVM 30 and I bought the P5 just to irritate the dealer further(just kidding).



That CUSTOMER Friendly dealer should be ADVERTISED all over the

Internet as one to STAY away from - but then maybe no one else

Lives in Tulsa


----------



## Woodrow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16305746
> 
> 
> That CUSTOMER Friendly dealer should be ADVERTISED all over the
> 
> Internet as one to STAY away from - but then maybe no one else
> 
> Lives in Tulsa



They won't be hard to stay away from since if you walk in the door not intending to buy a full install, they will shoo you right back out the door. I doubt they treat the folks paying $75,000-$100,000 on a custom job the way they are treating me.







Who knows though.


And Tulsa is not quite the backwater most think, but I don't blame you for the thought since before I moved here I felt the same way.


----------



## The Bogg

That is disturbingly bad customer service you received Woodrow. I have had cases where I've had to pay 1-way shipping for warranty service, which isn't unreasonable and is often stipulated in the warranty. However, the labour charge for warranty work seems odd. Probably better just to pay it and move on and be the wiser for it. Don't want the company mistakenly selling it or something.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16301492
> 
> 
> Oh well. If simply replacing the cables got rid of the interference, then the interference was not due to a ground loop -- so no surprise it didn't fix the hum/hiss problem.
> 
> 
> You might STILL have ground loop from your cable/satellite feed. So try disconnecting that feed line (between the wall and your set top box) and see if you can still make the hum/hiss happen.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Tried that a while back as I did think I had a ground loop issue at one time. After a lot of money and investigative work, I discovered that it was not GL, but was a bad transformer in a $5000 amp. Who woulda thunk it?


Anyway, I can confidently say the issue with the Anthem is not a GL issue.


----------



## obie_fl

I'll play Devil's Advocate







GLs can develop over time are you really, really sure?







It is pretty simple to pull your cable off your set top box. Have you had any rain or inclement weather recently?


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16307078
> 
> 
> I'll play Devil's Advocate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GLs can develop over time are you really, really sure?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is pretty simple to pull your cable off your set top box. Have you had any rain or inclement weather recently?



That actually happened to me. For many years I had no problems with hum, then one day hum, traced down to the cable feed.


----------



## Nicoff

Is the Anthem D2V a "high-maintenance" unit?


I am looking at upgrading my Lexicon Mc-1 after many years of 100% reliability. After reading so many posts here about issues/troubles, I am starting to wonder if the Anthem should be in my short-list of processors to consider.


Based on replies to a request for suggestions in another thread, so far my shortlist of processors consists of:

1 (Tie): Denon and Anthem (with ARC)

2. Integra

3. lexicon MC-12 (with EQ)


Also, considering the price difference between the Denon/Anthem ($8k) and the Integra ($2K). Does the Integra really belongs in this shortlist?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16307721
> 
> 
> Is the Anthem D2V a "high-maintenance" unit?



No.


This is a "tweaking" thread, so of course you get a lot of posts here from folks exploring all the different things they can do with the D2v to get the absolute maximum out of it. If you enjoy that sort of thing, it's a lot of fun. But of course there's no need to keep tweaking if you'd rather just use your initial setup.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16307721
> 
> 
> Is the Anthem D2V a "high-maintenance" unit?



I have to *disagree with Mr. Bob.*


Like you I came from the Lexicon World - CP-1 and every

box up to the MC-12b which is what I sold for my Anthem D2.


The reason I think the Anthem is a "high-maintenance" unit

is because once you OWN one you won't want to TURN IT

OFF - *I call that High Maintenance*



















I never had these when I OWNED Lexicon


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16307721
> 
> 
> Is the Anthem D2V a "high-maintenance" unit?
> 
> 
> Based on replies to a request for suggestions in another thread, so far my shortlist of processors consists of:
> 
> 
> 1 (Tie): Denon and Anthem (with ARC)
> 
> 2. Integra
> 
> 3. lexicon MC-12 (with EQ)
> 
> 
> Also, considering the price difference between the Denon/Anthem ($8k) and the Integra ($2K). Does the Integra really belongs in this shortlist?



It depends on how much the $6K means to you financially vs. the value of the performance difference to you. It isn't really something a person who doesn't know you well can answer.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16307078
> 
> 
> I'll play Devil's Advocate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GLs can develop over time are you really, really sure?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is pretty simple to pull your cable off your set top box. Have you had any rain or inclement weather recently?



ok, to put this to rest, I just tried pulling the cables from my set top box, again. It does not appear to be related to GL. As mentioned previously, and as tried again to be sure, it seems to be due to the component cables proximity to my power center or possibly one or more of the power cords. If I plug the same component cables in that I was using when I first noticed the lines, the lines reappear. If I shift them away from my power center, the lines disappear.


I borrowed a good set of component cables from another system and don't get the lines regardless to their proximity to my power center, nor do I with hdmi. I think I've narrowed it down to the particular crappy component cables I was using and is no longer an issue. I threw out the cables.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

My P5 had a warranty issue, the dealer delivered the part to my house, I swapped it (my choice, was fun) while they watched, they took the part and left. I understood that I would have to pay shipping if that was necessary. Sorry you are having issues.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Woodrow* /forum/post/16305780
> 
> 
> They won't be hard to stay away from since if you walk in the door not intending to buy a full install, they will shoo you right back out the door. I doubt they treat the folks paying $75,000-$100,000 on a custom job the way they are treating me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who knows though.
> 
> 
> And Tulsa is not quite the backwater most think, but I don't blame you for the thought since before I moved here I felt the same way.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16308018
> 
> 
> ok, to put this to rest, I just tried pulling the cables from my set top box, again. It does not appear to be related to GL. As mentioned previously, and as tried again to be sure, it seems to be due to the component cables proximity to my power center or possibly one or more of the power cords. If I plug the same component cables in that I was using when I first noticed the lines, the lines reappear. If I shift them away from my power center, the lines disappear.
> 
> 
> I borrowed a good set of component cables from another system and don't get the lines regardless to their proximity to my power center, nor do I with hdmi. I think I've narrowed it down to the particular crappy component cables I was using and is no longer an issue. I threw out the cables.



Your diagnosis sounds spot on to me.


Not all power line interference is due to Ground Loops, and the particular case you had with these faulty component cables is an example of that.


I think folks were suggesting you might want to double check once again that your hum/hiss problem was not due to something getting into your system via your cable/satellite feed -- i.e., as long as you were re-checking for Ground Loop impact anyway.

--Bob


----------



## Justin73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Woodrow* /forum/post/16304374
> 
> 
> Got a quick question: I just had an Anthem P5 repaired under warranty for a blown channel and the dealer is charging me labor since the part was shipped to the dealer rather than the amp being shipped back to Anthem. Just wondering if this is normal? Anthem is telling me it's the dealer's responsibility and the dealer is saying it's Anthem's responsibility but that I'll have to pay the $255 labor before they'll give me my amp back.
> 
> 
> Just wondering if anyone else paid the labor for a repair that was under
> 
> warranty?



Woodrow,


Do you know what part that was swapped out? To me, a $255 charge seems excessive. I always thought that Anthem had a modular design to their amps, so swapping parts should be "relatively" easy.


----------



## Murat

Hi Folks,


How do you test the tweaks and changes with your Anthem & ARC? What are your favorite BR discs and tracks? I need some good tracks which can give me an idea for dialogue, bass, surround sounds, effects, etc.


Thanks


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16308018
> 
> 
> ok, to put this to rest, I just tried pulling the cables from my set top box, again. It does not appear to be related to GL. As mentioned previously, and as tried again to be sure, it seems to be due to the component cables proximity to my power center or possibly one or more of the power cords. If I plug the same component cables in that I was using when I first noticed the lines, the lines reappear. If I shift them away from my power center, the lines disappear.
> 
> 
> I borrowed a good set of component cables from another system and don't get the lines regardless to their proximity to my power center, nor do I with hdmi. I think I've narrowed it down to the particular crappy component cables I was using and is no longer an issue. I threw out the cables.



I agree quality cables and proper routing are very important for analog video. I may have misunderstood you but I was referring to your hum issue not the lines. Did the hum go away with the new cables too?


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/16309308
> 
> 
> Hi Folks,
> 
> 
> How do you test the tweaks and changes with your Anthem & ARC? What are your favorite BR discs and tracks? I need some good tracks which can give me an idea for dialogue, bass, surround sounds, effects, etc.
> 
> 
> Thanks



How are things sounding Murat....


You were thinking about getting an external EQ for your F113's.....

Hope your charts came out nicely enough with ARC that you wouldn't need to add something like the AS-EQ1 from SVS...


Are you still running the Gryphon Posidons?, those things are monsters....


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/16309308
> 
> 
> Hi Folks,
> 
> 
> How do you test the tweaks and changes with your Anthem & ARC? What are your favorite BR discs and tracks? I need some good tracks which can give me an idea for dialogue, bass, surround sounds, effects, etc.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Some of my favorites for HT use that I always seem to cycle through after any changes, covering audio and video:


- *Immortal Beloved* (BluRay/TrueHD) - Moonlight Sonata scene (piano's are tough!), and the Ode to Joy scene (lots of mixed sounds and music)


- *Star Wars II* HD MPEG (Tivo/DD5.1) - The beginning scene with the silver ship flying in, landing, and then exploding. Amazing bass, and can highlight perfect versus exaggerated bass (there's also a sonic bomb scene in here somewhere that's good for bass, but I rarely go to it after this amazing intro scene)


- *Saving Private Ryan* (DVD/DD5.1) - The whole horrible beach scene, for some amazing spatial sounds (and disturbing images)


- *Matrix* HD MPEG (Tivo/DD5.1) - The lobby shootout scene, some spatial, some bass, lots of rangey music, fun action scene


- *Cars* (BluRay/LPCM) - The first scene through the end of the song, highlights lots of rangey spatial bass-y sounds, overlayed with music; the "Life is a Highway" scene, for some great visuals and some good music


- *Enchanted* (BluRay/TrueHD) - The park scene, for some of the best visuals and colors I've seen, and also a really good test for 24p lipsync; the intro animated Disney castle, with the camera flying down through the fireworks, to in front of the castle, to inside the castle - this scene will highlight any imperfections in 24p interpretation pretty clearly (just keep your eyes open and don't blink!)


- *I, Robot* (BluRay/DTS-MA) - The "You appear to be experiencing a car accident" scene, some amazing spatial sound, great bass and explosions, really good visuals


I think that's really the list of what I go to every time. If I had to pick only two, it would be *Immortal Beloved and Cars*. Hope this helps!

Thanks,

Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/16309308
> 
> 
> Hi Folks,
> 
> 
> How do you test the tweaks and changes with your Anthem & ARC? What are your favorite BR discs and tracks? I need some good tracks which can give me an idea for dialogue, bass, surround sounds, effects, etc.
> 
> 
> Thanks



If you go to the Blu-Ray Software (i.e., disc reviews) forum here, you'll find two sticky threads that attempt to rank disc titles by video quality and by audio quality. The top ranked discs in each category are your best sources of test Blu-Ray discs.

Picture Quality 

Audio Quality 


In terms of calibration discs, for video setup I recommend the new disc by Spears and Munsil:

Spears & Munsil 


This disc can also be ordered from Oppo Digital (who helped sponsor its creation) and, I believe, from Amazon.com. The disc does not include any audio tests.


Another calibration disc that is very useful is "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray available from Amazon.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

I agree with Immortal Beloved (Blu-Ray) and Saving Private Ryan--I use the Tank scene at the end of the film in addition to the Beach Scene.


Elton John 60 (Blu-Ray) (Benny and the Jets)


Titanic (DTS Sountrack) Full Speed Ahead -- Iceberg Collision.


----------



## zuesmaximus

can someone tell me how to attach arc results to forum?

i always get an error(invalid file)

thanks

Manny


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'll add that if you want to test your multi-channel Music configuration and don't have any multi-channel Music discs you care to use instead it is often the case that the music played during the closing credits of any of the Blu-Ray discs top ranked for audio quality will be spectacular. The music editor is usual given a free hand during the closing credits to show off his stuff without having to worry about dialog and sound effects.


There are also "audio only" Blu-Ray discs being put out by Acoustic Reality -- and perhaps others by now. The Acoustic Reality discs are re-releases of 5.1 recordings originally intended for SACD. They have been processed into 7.1 DTS-HD MA 96KHz/24bit audio and put on Blu-Ray along with a black screen for video. You can find them at Amazon. However, whenever you look at the exotic audio format discs (these discs, or SACD or DVD-Audio) you will soon find that the quality of the performance itself may be lacking even though the audio reproduction of the inept performance is wonderful.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16310545
> 
> 
> can someone tell me how to attach arc results to forum?
> 
> i always get an error(invalid file)
> 
> thanks
> 
> Manny



Here's what I do. Look in Windows Help for the key combo for "Screen Capture Active Window". It's something like Alt-PrintScreen, but I use a Mac so don't actually recall.


Open your ARC results file in ARC Advanced mode so that the charts are visible. You can't get all the charts in one window so you need to scroll to the top and then to the bottom to do separate captures. So you'll end up with 5 files in all: Movie charts top and bottom, Music charts top and bottom, and a separate capture of the Targets window. Use the View menu to switch between Movie charts and Music charts. Click on the Targets button to bring up the Targets window.


Scroll as necessary to get the part you are trying to capture visible in the active window and then do the screen capture key combo. That captures the result into the clip board. Now fire up the Windows Paint application (bundled with Windows) and Paste into that. Then Save As -- selecting JPEG file format to keep the file a reasonable size. After the Save As of the JPEG picture file you can Undo the Paste you did in Windows Paint to leave it empty for the next picture out of the clip board. When you finish the 5 captures you'll have 5 JPEG picture files on your computer.


Now come here and type in your post. Below the box where you type in the post there is a section for Manage Attachments. Use that to upload your picture files to AVS. You'll do the first 3 and when they upload you'll then have a chance to do the last 2. The attached pictures will show as links in your post.


Find the Preview Post button below the text type in block and you'll get to see what your post will look like with the attached picture links. Click on the attached picture links to make sure everything is working the way you intended. Then click on the Submit Reply button to post your message. The pictures themselves are stored in AVS so you no longer need to keep them on your computer if you don't want to.


AVS only supports certain file types for upload. JPEG format picture files are one of the supported types. Other folks paste all of their picture captures into one Microsoft Word file.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

D2 Firmware V1.33


I wanted to calibrate speaker levels before running a new ARC sweep.


Before doing that, I decided to erase the current ARC settings. V2.1.1 ran the erase program in about 2 secs and stated it was finished even though none of the steps I noted with previous versions of ARC took place. And, the ARC settings were not erased. I tried multiple times with the same result. I finally dug up an earlier version that preformed as I had previously experienced and did erase the ARC settings.


ARC 2.1.1 did do the sweep and upload correctly.


Anyone experience the same?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/16310697
> 
> 
> D2 Firmware V1.33
> 
> 
> I wanted to calibrate speaker levels before running a new ARC sweep.
> 
> 
> Before doing that, I decided to erase the current ARC settings. V2.1.1 ran the erase program in about 2 secs and stated it was finished even though none of the steps I noted with previous versions of ARC took place. And, the ARC settings were not erased. I tried multiple times with the same result. I finally dug up an earlier version that preformed as I had previously experienced and did erase the ARC settings.
> 
> 
> ARC 2.1.1 did do the sweep and upload correctly.
> 
> 
> Anyone experience the same?



I haven't tried ARC V2.1.1. The only thing I can think of is that for safety they have each ARC version set to only erase results uploaded by the same version. If so, you should now be able to erase -- and then re-Upload of course.


In any event, please send an email to Anthem tech support with the details.


Please understand there is no NEED to Erase the prior ARC setup before doing a new ARC setup.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16310751
> 
> 
> I haven't tried ARC V2.1.1. The only thing I can think of is that for safety they have each ARC version set to only erase results uploaded by the same version. If so, you should now be able to erase -- and then re-Upload of course.
> 
> 
> In any event, please send an email to Anthem tech support with the details.
> 
> 
> Please understand there is no NEED to Erase the prior ARC setup before doing a new ARC setup.
> 
> --Bob



I will contact Nick.


The version of ARC I used to erase the D2 settings was much older than the version used to calibrate and upload the files that were in the D2 so I guess version may not matter.


As for erasing first; I felt to perform the basic speaker level calibration using the Internal noise generator, I would need to remove th ARC settings first.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/16310962
> 
> 
> As for erasing first; I felt to perform the basic speaker level calibration using the Internal noise generator, I would need to remove th ARC settings first.



That's not necessary.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

well here I go, my results from arc.

my family room is not so ideal... Attachment 140409 

Attachment 140410


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16311796
> 
> 
> well here I go, my results from arc.
> 
> my family room is not so ideal... Attachment 140409
> 
> Attachment 140410



What speakers do you have? Weird that they seem to have such a rapid high-end drop-off across the board...


Your sub also looks really weak at the low-end.


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16311882
> 
> 
> What speakers do you have? Weird that they seem to have such a rapid high-end drop-off across the board...
> 
> 
> Your sub also looks really weak at the low-end.



I have Revel's fronts (f32) & center (c32) my sub (sunfire trusub w/eq 12")


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16311796
> 
> 
> well here I go, my results from arc.
> 
> my family room is not so ideal... Attachment 140409
> 
> Attachment 140410



You are actually not that bad.


First of all, what I've come to call the "basic volume level" of your solution -- the flat part of the dashed Target curves to the right of the crossover frequencies is quite a bit too high. This is probably due to ARC trying to deal with the fact that the volume control on your subwoofer is set too high -- i.e., it is struggling to get the main speakers and the sub into balance.


Do the exercise I described earlier to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and then to set the volume knob on your sub and re-Measure.


----------------------------------------------


Next, a number of your speakers are showing signs of weak output in the highest frequencies. Typically this is due to pointing errors. Speakers are very directional in the highest frequencies and their dispersion characteristics are usually stranger in the vertical direction than side to side. So re-point your speakers. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing.


Your Right Surround, Left Rear, and Right Rear speakers have enough of a drop off that it looks like you may have a hardware problem. Play some stereo content with high frequencies (e.g., cymbals) and select Stereo All audio mode on the Anthem to send that to all the speakers. Then put your ear up close to each driver in each speaker and make sure they are all producing output.


If not, then check the wiring first. Some speakers have separate input jacks for treble. Usually these are connected to the low frequency input jacks via bus bars across the speaker connections. If you don't find a problem in the wiring then you may have some broken speakers.


If the speakers are in-wall or in-ceiling, their installation may also be causing substantial drop-off in treble. Check the type of grill material and whether there is any sort of mounting hardware blocking output from the tweeter.


----------------------------------------------------------


The amount of drop off you have in the high frequencies in these speakers is more than ARC can correct as trying to do so would put to much strain on the speakers and amps.


But the dip in, say, LF and RF is correctable. First, as I said, check your pointing. Toe-in the speakers about 1/3 of the way towards the center seating position (a simple rule of thumb that seems to work well in my experience).


Do your next set of Measurements in Advanced mode. After you get the Measured charts up, open up the Targets window and raise the Max EQ Frequency target value. This is the upper limit for how far up ARC will attempt to correct. By default it stops at 5KHz.


--------------------------------------------------


You sub is good down to around 25Hz, which is fine. LF/RF/C should be fine after you tell ARC to correct the higher frequencies. The bass response for your side and rear surrounds is a bit weak, but ARC has that fairly well in hand.


So your big problem is figuring out what is happening to the high frequencies for the surround speakers.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16312007
> 
> 
> You are actually not that bad.
> 
> 
> First of all, what I've come to call the "basic volume level" of your solution -- the flat part of the dashed Target curves to the right of the crossover frequencies is quite a bit too high. This is probably due to ARC trying to deal with the fact that the volume control on your subwoofer is set too high -- i.e., it is struggling to get the main speakers and the sub into balance.
> 
> 
> Do the exercise I described earlier to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and then to set the volume knob on your sub and re-Measure.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Next, a number of your speakers are showing signs of weak output in the highest frequencies. Typically this is due to pointing errors. Speakers are very directional in the highest frequencies and their dispersion characteristics are usually stranger in the vertical direction than side to side. So re-point your speakers. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing.
> 
> 
> Your Right Surround, Left Rear, and Right Rear speakers have enough of a drop off that it looks like you may have a hardware problem. Play some stereo content with high frequencies (e.g., cymbals) and select Stereo All audio mode on the Anthem to send that to all the speakers. Then put your ear up close to each driver in each speaker and make sure they are all producing output.
> 
> 
> If not, then check the wiring first. Some speakers have separate input jacks for treble. Usually these are connected to the low frequency input jacks via bus bars across the speaker connections. If you don't find a problem in the wiring then you may have some broken speakers.
> 
> 
> If the speakers are in-wall or in-ceiling, their installation may also be causing substantial drop-off in treble. Check the type of grill material and whether there is any sort of mounting hardware blocking output from the tweeter.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The amount of drop off you have in the high frequencies in these speakers is more than ARC can correct as trying to do so would put to much strain on the speakers and amps.
> 
> 
> But the dip in, say, LF and RF is correctable. First, as I said, check your pointing. Toe-in the speakers about 1/3 of the way towards the center seating position (a simple rule of thumb that seems to work well in my experience).
> 
> 
> Do your next set of Measurements in Advanced mode. After you get the Measured charts up, open up the Targets window and raise the Max EQ Frequency target value. This is the upper limit for how far up ARC will attempt to correct. By default it stops at 5KHz.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> You sub is good down to around 25Hz, which is fine. LF/RF/C should be fine after you tell ARC to correct the higher frequencies. The bass response for your side and rear surrounds is a bit weak, but ARC has that fairly well in hand.
> 
> 
> So your big problem is figuring out what is happening to the high frequencies for the surround speakers.
> 
> --Bob



the problem with my rear and side speakers maybe be due to the fact that they are ceiling speakers and at 10' height. i will probably have to replace them with better quality. they are bose dipole


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16312057
> 
> 
> the problem with my rear and side speakers maybe be due to the fact that they are ceiling speakers and at 10' height. i will probably have to replace them with better quality. they are bose dipole



I'm not a fan of Bose speakers, so I'm going to leap to the conclusion that this is in fact your problem.


Anyway, see what you can do with repointing (if at all possible) and by telling ARC to do the correction further up. Try 20KHz for the Max EQ Frequency target and look for decreased quality in the green Calculated curves at lower frequencies (due to ARC diverting its resources further up). If you see that, back off from 20KHz and look for a compromise setting that gives you improvement at higher frequencies without hurting the lower frequencies.


There's no need to re-Measure when doing Calculation experiments like this so you can run through a number of trial cases in no time at all. When you get a result you like, Upload it.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16312113
> 
> 
> I'm not a fan of Bose speakers, so I'm going to leap to the conclusion that this is in fact your problem.
> 
> 
> Anyway, see what you can do with repointing (if at all possible) and by telling ARC to do the correction further up. Try 20KHz for the Max EQ Frequency target and look for decreased quality in the green Calculated curves at lower frequencies (due to ARC diverting its resources further up). If you see that, back off from 20KHz and look for a compromise setting that gives you improvement at higher frequencies without hurting the lower frequencies.
> 
> 
> There's no need to re-Measure when doing Calculation experiments like this so you can run through a number of trial cases in no time at all. When you get a result you like, Upload it.
> 
> --Bob



I should remeasure with the subs eq off?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16312181
> 
> 
> I should remeasure with the subs eq off?



Yes. The sub's EQ is doing a fine job as shown by the quality of its red Measured curve, but ARC can probably do that just as well and one less stage of processing is almost always a good thing.


Re-point your other speakers if possible.


Turn off the EQ in the sub (and disable any internal crossover it has -- or crank it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible if it can't be completely disabled). Then do the exercise to set Test Level to 75dB SPL and then also set the internal volume knob on the sub for 75dB SPL (zero out all lines in Setup > Level Calibration other than Test Level -- adjust the sub level using only the control on the sub itself).


Then re-Measure.


Then do some trial Calculations with different Max EQ Frequency target values. Upload the result that looks best.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

here's my second run... Attachment 140429 

Attachment 140430 


Manny


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16312486
> 
> 
> here's my second run... Attachment 140429
> 
> Attachment 140430
> 
> 
> Manny



Yes, that's much improved in the high frequencies, although ARC can't fully correct the surround speakers that drop off a cliff above 10KHz.


If that run was done with the EQ turned off in your sub, then I'd say you can leave it off. ARC has things well in hand.


You still need to do the exercise to configure Test Level and the volume knob in your subwoofer to get the basic volume level in your solution down closer to 75dB.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16312529
> 
> 
> Yes, that's much improved in the high frequencies, although ARC can't fully correct the surround speakers that drop off a cliff above 10KHz.
> 
> 
> If that run was done with the EQ turned off in your sub, then I'd say you can leave it off. ARC has things well in hand.
> 
> 
> You still need to do the exercise to configure Test Level and the volume knob in your subwoofer to get the basic volume level in your solution down closer to 75dB.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,

I absolutely need to go to Radio Shack and pick that up...

I just recevied my new projector for the home theater and still debating on getting Avm50v to replace the one for the HT. (AVM50)...

After what the V has done to my family room its an easy decision









Everyone out thereshould get an Anthem


----------



## Milt99

zues, Bob,

IIRC, don't the Revels have a contour setting switch for adjustment of the freq response due to room boundary and other factors?

The 10k+ drop in the graphs might be due to the setting of this dial\\switch

Just a thought.


----------



## Murat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16310126
> 
> 
> How are things sounding Murat....
> 
> 
> You were thinking about getting an external EQ for your F113's.....
> 
> Hope your charts came out nicely enough with ARC that you wouldn't need to add something like the AS-EQ1 from SVS...
> 
> 
> Are you still running the Gryphon Posidons?, those things are monsters....



Hi,


Things are sounding much better right now. But I'm using f212's not f113s and I don't plan to add another EQ component as both the subs and Anthem has their own room correction systems. I'm just testing whether to have both on or just let the Anthem's ARC do everthing.


As for Gryphon Poseidons, yes, I'm still using them. They are one amazing set of speakers, but you're right they are huge and a little big for my room











Regards


----------



## ehlarson

The Revels have both a contour and a tweeter level control. The contour is aimed at correcting for room boundary effects, the tweeter for balance. Tweaking the tweeter control might help a bit.


But I think the biggest problems zeus is having are from the Bose in-ceiling rears and surrounds, not the Revels.


----------



## davidhoenig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Woodrow* /forum/post/16305780
> 
> 
> They won't be hard to stay away from since if you walk in the door not intending to buy a full install, they will shoo you right back out the door. I doubt they treat the folks paying $75,000-$100,000 on a custom job the way they are treating me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who knows though.
> 
> 
> And Tulsa is not quite the backwater most think, but I don't blame you for the thought since before I moved here I felt the same way.



And dealers wonder why people are going to the internet for deals and better service? Geez.


I know all dealers aren't that way but my typical experience as a young guy purchasing high-end equipment is that I don't get taken seriously from the moment I walk into their showrooms. Their loss.


I second advertising their name, here if the rules permit, elsewhere if their rules do not. the only way this behavior will change is if they are called-out on it.


----------



## zuesmaximus

I checked the setting on the back on the Revels which seem to be correct.

Its a must to replace the Bose ceiling speakers...my wife is not going to be thrilled.

Just finished installing my new projector in the home theater. Now back to arc tests.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/16312939
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Things are sounding much better right now. But I'm using f212's not f113s and I don't plan to add another EQ component as both the subs and Anthem has their own room correction systems. I'm just testing whether to have both on or just let the Anthem's ARC do everthing.
> 
> 
> As for Gryphon Poseidons, yes, I'm still using them. They are one amazing set of speakers, but you're right they are huge and a little big for my room
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards



Oh thats right.... the F212's have to be really nice... I love my F112 in my small system, just awesome - clean, articulate and powerful... Oh an remember that JL's single point EQ - ARO won't hold a candle to what ARC will have to offer, more then likely you will be free to just turn it off altogether.... Keep us posted on your outcome...


I'm glad you waited to see what ARC was going to do with your setup before you bought something that may be unnecessary...










Enjoy


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16309757
> 
> 
> I agree quality cables and proper routing are very important for analog video. I may have misunderstood you but I was referring to your hum issue not the lines. Did the hum go away with the new cables too?



No, my hum issue with the Anthem appears to be an isolated situation due to something unknown to me but Anthem has duplicated it and is apparently working on a fix. However, it does not occur when I use component cables. It seems to be an issue isolated to HDMI driven sources and also when I open the Setup screen.


----------



## facedogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16301514
> 
> 
> I'm not sure I follow what you are doing. Are you trying to use the Simulcast feature in the AVM 50 (Section 4.4.2 of the Manual)?
> 
> 
> The only thing I can think of that might be related to this is if you have Auto Dig ON in the Source Setup either for your DirecTV source or your PC source.
> 
> 
> But I haven't used Simulcast a lot, so you may have found a new bug. Send an email to Anthem tech support with details and see what they say.
> 
> --Bob



Bob -- Thanks for the response. I am using the simulcast feature, but I can actually remove that from the scenario and simplify a bit. I can recreate this scenario by simply switching from the VCR input (coming from SPDIF on PC) to TV1 input (directv) back to the VCR input. When I go back to the VCR input there is no audio and I have to pull the coax audio cable and re-insert and the audio comes back. I've tried this with auto-dig on and off with no change. I'll shoot this over to the guys at Anthem as well, but thought I'd give the experts here a shot as well. Thanks all!


--Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facedogg* /forum/post/16315023
> 
> 
> Bob -- Thanks for the response. I am using the simulcast feature, but I can actually remove that from the scenario and simplify a bit. I can recreate this scenario by simply switching from the VCR input (coming from SPDIF on PC) to TV1 input (directv) back to the VCR input. When I go back to the VCR input there is no audio and I have to pull the coax audio cable and re-insert and the audio comes back. I've tried this with auto-dig on and off with no change. I'll shoot this over to the guys at Anthem as well, but thought I'd give the experts here a shot as well. Thanks all!
> 
> 
> --Mike



I can't recall any reports of problems like this. Probably best to let the Anthem tech support guys take a crack at it with you.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

I went to run ARC again with the new software and I can not connect to the AVM-50. After 90 min I just gave up.


I went to look to see if the V upgrade has a usb port and it does not. I am surprised they are still using 9 pin and didn't upgrade the interface or am I missing something?


----------



## Nick HT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16294056
> 
> 
> Now that Anthem is shipping again could people receiving new D2V's please post the date their order was placed? It would be a help to those who have backordered units judge when the might be getting their units.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Ordered mine Feb 11th. Got call from my dealer today.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16322112
> 
> 
> Ordered mine Feb 11th. Got call from my dealer today.



Thanks for posting the date. That's 70 days.....


If that holds true I'm looking at early June.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/16321787
> 
> 
> I went to run ARC again with the new software and I can not connect to the AVM-50. After 90 min I just gave up.
> 
> 
> I went to look to see if the V upgrade has a usb port and it does not. I am surprised they are still using 9 pin and didn't upgrade the interface or am I missing something?



The new software introduced no new problems in the serial connection that I'm aware of. What changed in your computer setup since you last used ARC?


Are you using the serial connection for control of the Anthem as well (instead of the normal IR remote)? If so, be sure to reset the RS-232 settings in the Anthem back to the factory defaults prior to doing ARC stuff.


Did you just do a firmware install as well as installing the new ARC software on your PC? Did you get any error messages from the ARC software?

--Bob


----------



## Nick HT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16286318
> 
> 
> For you folks taking delivery of new AVM 50v or D2v units, you can verify the ARC version by running ARC in Advanced mode and selecting About from the Help menu. No need to hook up to the Anthem or the mic or take Measurements or anything else to do this. Just install the ARC application on your PC and report if your new Anthem came with ARC V2.1 or later on the install CD.
> 
> 
> If you are the first to confirm this, it's worth a cookie!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Picked my D2v up today -- it came with ARC V2.1. Off to finish install


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16322702
> 
> 
> Picked my D2v up today -- it came with ARC V2.1. Off to finish install



Thanks for the report, but I'm afraid someone beat you to the cookie by a few days.


However, we've got some fresh popcorn in the works should be ready just about the time you finish hooking things up.


Enjoy!

--Bob


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16322363
> 
> 
> The new software introduced no new problems in the serial connection that I'm aware of. What changed in your computer setup since you last used ARC?
> 
> 
> Are you using the serial connection for control of the Anthem as well (instead of the normal IR remote)? If so, be sure to reset the RS-232 settings in the Anthem back to the factory defaults prior to doing ARC stuff.
> 
> 
> Did you just do a firmware install as well as installing the new ARC software on your PC? Did you get any error messages from the ARC software?
> 
> --Bob




I have had a few small problems before. It just usually takes unplugging and plugging a few times before it finds it.


Its used just for updates and ARC.


I use a regular touch button remote (mx-3000) and the cord stays plugged in the back. I just pull it up and plug into computer.


I checked the version and I looked at the ver on the web site, they were the same so I was going just to do the ARC.


The arc software loaded fine and when I plugged in the mic it found it right away. Went to standard took off the rears and changed the number to 6 and hit start.


Just kept saying Anthem not found.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/16322979
> 
> 
> I have had a few small problems before. It just usually takes unplugging and plugging a few times before it finds it.
> 
> 
> Its used just for updates and ARC.
> 
> 
> I use a regular touch button remote (mx-3000) and the cord stays plugged in the back. I just pull it up and plug into computer.
> 
> 
> I checked the version and I looked at the ver on the web site, they were the same so I was going just to do the ARC.
> 
> 
> The arc software loaded fine and when I plugged in the mic it found it right away. Went to standard took off the rears and changed the number to 6 and hit start.
> 
> 
> Just kept saying Anthem not found.



Well, it's probably something simple, but your best bet is to call Anthem tech support and let them diagnose it with your over the phone.


One thing though, what version of ARC did you have installed BEFORE the one you installed today? If it was old enough your problem may simply be that recent ARC versions install in a new location and so you need to do an extra manual step to make sure your two licensing and calibration files are in the right install location. This is explained in the text file that comes with the ARC install download.


Check your main hard drive > Program Files > Anthem > AnthemRoomCorrection. You'll find the ARC V2.1 application installed in there. Make sure your two licensing/calibration files are also in there. These are the two files with names made up of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC mic. If they are not there you can copy them into there from your original ARC install CD.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

Thanks Bob, I will try that Tuesday. I did try to use the .exe I used last time to see if that would connect but it didn't.


I am playing with the idea of upgrading to the V. Business is not like before where a few thousand is throw away.


----------



## Nick HT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16322872
> 
> 
> Thanks for the report, but I'm afraid someone beat you to the cookie by a few days.
> 
> 
> However, we've got some fresh popcorn in the works should be ready just about the time you finish hooking things up.
> 
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> --Bob



Finished hooking up several hours ago. Both PS3 and DirectV DVR work fine and sound GREAT, but I am experiencing audio noise between tracks from DV79Avi over HDMI on DTS. Is this the same issue that Bob reported from DV59 or was that fixed?


----------



## Bob Anderson

Sorry if this have been asked before but wondering what is being the asking price to upgrade your D2?


thanks in advance.


Bob


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16322702
> 
> 
> Picked my D2v up today -- it came with ARC V2.1. Off to finish install



Congrats. I will live vicariously through you. I was told one more week for mine. grrrr.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16325533
> 
> 
> Congrats. I will live vicariously through you. I was told one more week for mine. grrrr.



No matter how we look at it, the early adopters of the D2 will in fact get their D2v upgrade last, long after everybody else


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16324389
> 
> 
> Finished hooking up several hours ago. Both PS3 and DirectV DVR work fine and sound GREAT, but I am experiencing audio noise between tracks from DV79Avi over HDMI on DTS. Is this the same issue that Bob reported from DV59 or was that fixed?



The issue I reported has not yet been fixed (I first found it using the latest D2v firmware).


I've not heard back from Nick whether they were able to reproduce the problem in the lab and whether a fix is in the works.


I don't know of any workaround to avoid the problem -- although I'm not having it with either the PS3 or the Oppo BDP-83.


I suggest you send an email to Anthem tech support with the details -- particularly if you have a case that reproduces the problem reliably.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/16325408
> 
> 
> Sorry if this have been asked before but wondering what is being the asking price to upgrade your D2?
> 
> 
> thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Bob



The D2 -> D2v upgrades have not yet begun, and Anthem has not yet committed to a price. It now looks like the upgrades will begin in June. We've heard price estimates as low as $1500, but the consensus guess at the moment appears to be closer to $3000.


Folks who bought their D2 around the beginning of the year -- just before the D2v started shipping -- have a coupon that allows them to do the upgrade at half price (whatever that turns out to be).


The upgrade will definitely require returning the unit to the factory. The upgrade definitely includes a new video board, a new DSP board (audio processing), and a new back panel to allow for the extra HDMI sockets. The guess now is that it may also include a new front panel (these are EXPENSIVE!) and a change out of the power supply if you don't already have the latest one in your D2. The guess is that the upgrade will also include ARC, and that there will be a discount if you already have an ARC license for your D2.

--Bob


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16325533
> 
> 
> Congrats. I will live vicariously through you. I was told one more week for mine. grrrr.



When did you order yours??


----------



## Justin73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16322112
> 
> 
> Ordered mine Feb 11th. Got call from my dealer today.



I ordered mine Jan 31, 2009, and I just received it yesterday. Talk about a long haul. I hooked it up...definitely worth the wait


----------



## dseliger

I sold my D2 and am using my Onkyo until my D2v gets here...kind of having withdrawls


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/16325408
> 
> 
> Sorry if this have been asked before but wondering what is being the asking price to upgrade your D2?
> 
> 
> thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Bob



I think this is still unknown, right?


----------



## TJG55

As an aside, just received the new Anthem LTX-300 PJ. Any goodies for this? Installing it next week. Will be testing it meantime.

tjg


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This is a rebadged JVC projector as I recall. So you should probably start with the appropriate JVC thread in the projectors forum here.

--Bob


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/16326181
> 
> 
> When did you order yours??



I put a deposit down the first week of February, but my dealer knew I didn't need it until the first week of April, so I think they ordered it in mid-March (I don't know exactly when). Hard to say if I would have beaten the parts issue/backorders had they ordered it immediately.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/16327226
> 
> 
> I sold my D2 and am using my Onkyo until my D2v gets here...kind of having withdrawls



Same situation as yours. Got a Onkyo PR sc886 as a temporary unit, and I miss my D2 dearly. ETA for my unit is June 5 as it is via seafreight to the Philippines.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/16327458
> 
> 
> As an aside, just received the new Anthem LTX-300 PJ. Any goodies for this? Installing it next week. Will be testing it meantime.
> 
> tjg



I got the LTX500 PJ along with my Pre/pro(still somewhere in the ocean). I hope there are some additional processing tweaks that Anthem incorporated in the unit but I will be happy with just a rebadged JVC.


Hope you can give a quick info as to its performance and if you can find any difference with the RS10/HD350.


----------



## budeone

I am hearing diffrent times and pricing to take a avm-50 and turn it into a V. Has anybody heard anything more from the posts a few weeks ago?


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/16330710
> 
> 
> I am hearing diffrent times and pricing to take a avm-50 and turn it into a V. Has anybody heard anything more from the posts a few weeks ago?



I inquired about converting my avm50 to a V (after seeing how good my new avm50v is performing). Asked dealer yesterday afternoon, they still have no exact eta about the converson but dealer claims price tag around 3K...

I'm debating on ordering another avm50v


----------



## Montekay

My ARC arrived a few days ago. I'm going home for the weekend today so I'll get to go pick it up







I'm only there for the weekend though so don't know if I'll have time to do anything with it. I assume I will at least be able to play with the software and familiarize myself with it next week sitting right here back in this same NM hotel? That way at least I'll be more ready to actually connect to the D2 and use it on the next trip home.


mk


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16333493
> 
> 
> My ARC arrived a few days ago. I'm going home for the weekend today so I'll get to go pick it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm only there for the weekend though so don't know if I'll have time to do anything with it. I assume I will at least be able to play with the software and familiarize myself with it next week sitting right here back in this same NM hotel? That way at least I'll be more ready to actually connect to the D2 and use it on the next trip home.
> 
> 
> mk



I would think it would take you less than an hour to install the software and download the first set of measurements. Even taking all the defaults I would bet you'll hear a big improvement. You can always tweak later.


----------



## Doozer428

Here's a question while I wait for my D2v... if I watch a regulard SD-DVD on my PS3, and the PS3 is set to LPCM, how are people listening to the DD/DTS soundtracks? Let the PS3 decode them? Switch the PS3 to bitstream every time they watch a DVD? Configure a second digital input using optical and switch to that? (not sure how that would work with Video on the HDMI connection...)


In particular, what happens if the soundtrack is DD-EX or DTS-ES? If I'm using HDMI/LPCM, will the PS3 send 6.1/7.1 to the Anthem? Will the Anthem correctly reduce it to 5.1 if I'm not set up for 7.1?


----------



## Lordoftherings




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16334180
> 
> 
> Here's a question while I wait for my D2v... if I watch a regulard SD-DVD on my PS3, and the PS3 is set to LPCM, how are people listening to the DD/DTS soundtracks? Let the PS3 decode them? Switch the PS3 to bitstream every time they watch a DVD? Configure a second digital input using optical and switch to that? (not sure how that would work with Video on the HDMI connection...)
> 
> 
> In particular, what happens if the soundtrack is DD-EX or DTS-ES? If I'm using HDMI/LPCM, will the PS3 send 6.1/7.1 to the Anthem? Will the Anthem correctly reduce it to 5.1 if I'm not set up for 7.1?



Your PS3 is set for bitstream for the digital optical output for the DVDs, and set for LPCM for the HDMI digital audio output.


When the DVD plays, the digital optical output is taking over for the audio.

And the picture is upconverted through the HDMI output.

DVDs and Blu-Rays used two different routes for their audio, but used the same for the video.


Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16334180
> 
> 
> Here's a question while I wait for my D2v... if I watch a regulard SD-DVD on my PS3, and the PS3 is set to LPCM, how are people listening to the DD/DTS soundtracks? Let the PS3 decode them? Switch the PS3 to bitstream every time they watch a DVD? Configure a second digital input using optical and switch to that? (not sure how that would work with Video on the HDMI connection...)
> 
> 
> In particular, what happens if the soundtrack is DD-EX or DTS-ES? If I'm using HDMI/LPCM, will the PS3 send 6.1/7.1 to the Anthem? Will the Anthem correctly reduce it to 5.1 if I'm not set up for 7.1?



Craig,


I went through this myself, and decided that the right move was not to use the PS3 at all for regular DVDs, and instead invest $169 in an Oppo 980-H:

http://oppodigital.com/dv980h/default.asp 


I use this for DVDs, SACDs and DVD-Audio. As far as bangs for the buck its probably the best $169 I've ever spent in the HT world. It allows you to digitally pass the video at 480i to the D2 (whereas the PS3 only allows 480p, and the PS3 doesn't do a very good job of deinterlacing). Furthermore, it can pass SACD audio digitally to the D2 via LPCM without any loss of quality. This gave me a big pickup in video quality on DVDs and replaced a $1500 SACD player that only passed audio via analog.


If you look back in this thread I was the same place you are about a year ago. After going back and forth with Bob on this topic, he convinced me to get the Oppo and it was without a doubt a great call. The differential on the video side versus the PS3 for regular DVDs is stunning.


Bob - hopefully I saved you some keystrokes here!


David


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/16333897
> 
> 
> I would think it would take you less than an hour to install the software and download the first set of measurements. Even taking all the defaults I would bet you'll hear a big improvement. You can always tweak later.



Sounds like it's pretty intuitive. Right now I only have left right and center to measure and the subs are incorporated into the mains so no use of the sub output. The surrounds are still under construction.


Will it need to be connected to the D2 via the RS232 for the actual measurements, I assume it will since it will want to control the stimulus signal as opposed to having the user do it manually. Actually come to think of it, since that's most likely generated locally within the D2, the RS232 is probably the only connection and you probably can't do anything with the software without the D2. Oh well, I have other software for stand alone measurements.


I will want to base corrections based on the eight main seating locations. I think it will take some time just because of having to make so many measurements. I assume it does averaging for each measurement instead of just one sample. I know doing measurements with Arta takes some time because of averaging and also just time moving the microphone around.


Anyway, I'm sitting in the airport waiting for my flight and I'm pretty excited about getting home and trying this thing. I'll go over to A&B TV and pick it up first thing in the morning! After that if the weather is bad, I'll be playing with it but if the weather is good, I'll be falling out of planes instead and then check it out tomorrow night. Can't waste blue sky for this thing










mk


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lordoftherings* /forum/post/16334352
> 
> 
> Your PS3 is set for bitstream for the digital optical output for the DVDs, and set for LPCM for the HDMI digital audio output.
> 
> 
> When the DVD plays, the digital optical output is taking over for the audio.
> 
> And the picture is upconverted through the HDMI output.
> 
> DVDs and Blu-Rays used two different routes for their audio, but used the same for the video.
> 
> 
> Bob



Ok, this could work... I wasn't sure this was possible. ie. I wasn't sure I could assign an optical input and an HDMI input on the D2v to the same source.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/16334368
> 
> 
> Craig,
> 
> 
> I went through this myself, and decided that the right move was not to use the PS3 at all for regular DVDs, and instead invest $169 in an Oppo 980-H:
> 
> http://oppodigital.com/dv980h/default.asp
> 
> 
> I use this for DVDs, SACDs and DVD-Audio. As far as bangs for the buck its probably the best $169 I've ever spent in the HT world. It allows you to digitally pass the video at 480i to the D2 (whereas the PS3 only allows 480p, and the PS3 doesn't do a very good job of deinterlacing). Furthermore, it can pass SACD audio digitally to the D2 via LPCM without any loss of quality. This gave me a big pickup in video quality on DVDs and replaced a $1500 SACD player that only passed audio via analog.
> 
> 
> If you look back in this thread I was the same place you are about a year ago. After going back and forth with Bob on this topic, he convinced me to get the Oppo and it was without a doubt a great call. The differential on the video side versus the PS3 for regular DVDs is stunning.
> 
> 
> Bob - hopefully I saved you some keystrokes here!
> 
> 
> David



Thanks for the suggestion. I was considering a similar route, but I would likely just pull my trusty old Panny RP-91 out and use it for dvd's. I would simply go ahead and do this (since it had a fairly solid 480i), but I'm a little short on rack space atm.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16334180
> 
> 
> Here's a question while I wait for my D2v... if I watch a regulard SD-DVD on my PS3, and the PS3 is set to LPCM, how are people listening to the DD/DTS soundtracks? Let the PS3 decode them? Switch the PS3 to bitstream every time they watch a DVD? Configure a second digital input using optical and switch to that? (not sure how that would work with Video on the HDMI connection...)
> 
> 
> In particular, what happens if the soundtrack is DD-EX or DTS-ES? If I'm using HDMI/LPCM, will the PS3 send 6.1/7.1 to the Anthem? Will the Anthem correctly reduce it to 5.1 if I'm not set up for 7.1?



The PS3 will send 7.1 HDMI LPCM to the D2v, and most PS3 users will just leave the PS3 in HDMI LPCM output (and not hook up optical or anything else). For folks with 5.1 speaker setups this is all you need to do. (The D2v takes care of down-mixing 7.1 channel input to 5.1 speaker output.)


For folks with 7.1 speaker setups, you need to be aware that the PS3 offers limited decoding of the lossy audio formats from standard DVDs that have rear channel content embedded in what is actually a 5.1 bitstream. The rear channel content is not decoded. You can use a surround mode in the D2v -- such as PLIIx Movie -- to steer content to your rear speakers, or you can switch the PS3 to HDMI Bitstream output when playing such tracks and let the D2v do the decoding.


See the PS3 FAQ sticky thread in the Blu-Ray players forum for more details on the PS3's audio decoding capabilities.


When playing standard DVDs there is no difference in bitstream output over the HDMI cable (presuming you have changed to bitstream output) and bitstream output over the optical cable. In addition, the PS3 will only send audio on one type of output at a time, and it requires a manual change to switch which one you want to use (it does not happen automatically just because you are playing a standard DVD). So there is no advantage in function or convenience in using the optical cable as well. Might as well just stick to using HDMI.


Again, most folks playing standard DVDs on the PS3 -- even folks with 7.1 speaker setups -- just leave the PS3 in HDMI LPCM.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/16334368
> 
> 
> Craig,
> 
> 
> I went through this myself, and decided that the right move was not to use the PS3 at all for regular DVDs, and instead invest $169 in an Oppo 980-H:
> 
> http://oppodigital.com/dv980h/default.asp
> 
> 
> I use this for DVDs, SACDs and DVD-Audio. As far as bangs for the buck its probably the best $169 I've ever spent in the HT world. It allows you to digitally pass the video at 480i to the D2 (whereas the PS3 only allows 480p, and the PS3 doesn't do a very good job of deinterlacing). Furthermore, it can pass SACD audio digitally to the D2 via LPCM without any loss of quality. This gave me a big pickup in video quality on DVDs and replaced a $1500 SACD player that only passed audio via analog.
> 
> 
> If you look back in this thread I was the same place you are about a year ago. After going back and forth with Bob on this topic, he convinced me to get the Oppo and it was without a doubt a great call. The differential on the video side versus the PS3 for regular DVDs is stunning.
> 
> 
> Bob - hopefully I saved you some keystrokes here!
> 
> 
> David



This remains good advice. Although the PS3 will certainly play standard DVDs I don't recommend it as a standard DVD player if you care about top quality video. Among other things, there's no way to avoid having the PS3 do de-interlacing of standard DVDs and the PS3 doesn't do that very well at all.


By the way, Oppo is likely within weeks of releasing the BDP-83 -- their first Blu-Ray player. It also does a top notch job of playing standard DVDs. See the BDP-83 Early Adopter Program (EAP) thread in the Blu-Ray players forum -- particularly the first post and the excellent FAQ linked from that post.

--Bob


----------



## Nick HT

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
The issue I reported has not yet been fixed (I first found it using the latest D2v firmware).


I've not heard back from Nick whether they were able to reproduce the problem in the lab and whether a fix is in the works.


I don't know of any workaround to avoid the problem -- although I'm not having it with either the PS3 or the Oppo BDP-83.


I suggest you send an email to Anthem tech support with the details -- particularly if you have a case that reproduces the problem reliably.

--Bob
Thanks Bob. I now have a very repeatable case and will e-mail Anthem support.


Also I've now run ARC, and generated the following results. Does anyone have any comments? I have a dip on RF at 100Hz that appears to be room related. Dropping the max Eq frequency to 5000Hz doesn't help, and results in poorer High Frequency corrections. Any thoughts? Thanks

 

ARC2.doc 139k . file


----------



## muad'dib

Tonight I decided to watch my blu-ray of "the arrival" on my D2V in a full 7.1 DTS HD MA glory..


Sounded stellar..


However,


During the film at random points I heard a crackle noise from random speakers..



Has anyone else ran into this?



I'm using a Sony bdp-s550 via HDMI bitstream to d2V..


I will update firmare tonight for the sony to see if the issues goes away..


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16338267
> 
> 
> Tonight I decided to watch my blu-ray of "the arrival" on my D2V in a full 7.1 DTS HD MA glory..
> 
> 
> Sounded stellar..
> 
> 
> However,
> 
> 
> During the film at random points I heard a crackle noise from random speakers..
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else ran into this?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using a Sony bdp-s550 via HDMI bitstream to d2V..
> 
> 
> I will update firmare tonight for the sony to see if the issues goes away..




Just got new firmware for sony blu-ray..


Same issue..


So, did some testing:


1 - tried with MIX on (to output PCM to anthem)


Anthem said it was getting 5.1 PCM (even though the movie is 7.1 DTS HD MA. I thought 7.1 PCM would be outputted).. There was NO ticking sounds. Played perfect.


2 - Sent Bitstream again to anthem, but , in Anthem turning OFF the rear channels in setup menu.


Anthem was getting bitstream 7.1 DTS HD MA. but outputting 5.1 speakers... NO TICKINGS... worked perfect...



Again, changed anthem settings back to Rears ON, and ticking was again heard..


Will send this but to anthem..


----------



## shawnwalters

The crackling sound has been mentioned before, Nick said it's on the docket to be fixed, but haven't done it yet. But yes please mention to anthem so they see people want it fixed










I have the issue as well and setting Mute level to "Max" has fixed it for the most part. I still hear it very faintly (when things are paused, etc) but it's much better than before.


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16338430
> 
> 
> The crackling sound has been mentioned before, Nick said it's on the docket to be fixed, but haven't done it yet. But yes please mention to anthem so they see people want it fixed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the issue as well and setting Mute level to "Max" has fixed it for the most part. I still hear it very faintly (when things are paused, etc) but it's much better than before.




Thanx..










Good to know I'm not going crazy..










Will try the mute max thing.. Cool..


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/14483390
> 
> 
> For the D2, 0 volume equals 85db, and -10 volume equals 75db. That's probably true for the AVM-50 as well; but, I'm not sure.
> 
> 
> You should not calibrate your sub 8-10 db higher. You want to get it as close to 75 db as possible so that ARC can properly set it for you when you run it. You don't want your sub dominating your system. You really want your sub to disappear and just be an extension of your mains.
> 
> 
> Yes, you should leave the setting on the AVM-50 to 0 and adjust the volume on your sub until it reads close to 75 db. You don't have to be exact. You just need to get it close, and ARC will take it from there.



I've never gotten around to doing this with my system so I don't know if I typically play at, below, or above reference level. Maybe I'm missing something here but I was under the impression that the noise level would have an impact on the play back level of sources in normal operation and that by setting it to achieve 75 dB that the system would be calibrated based on I would have assumed a zero dB main volume setting but as is stated here, a - 10 dB volume setting. The problem I'm having is that the noise level doesn't do anything at all outside the speaker calibration menu. It does change the actual noise level but has no effect on play back of sources. It doesn't matter if I leave it at zero dB or adjust it to -16 dB where I find the 75 dB reference, the playback of a DVD is exactly the same, no change at all! Do I need to activate something for this level calibration to take effect? I'll be going and picking up my ARC in a few hours so after that maybe it doesn't matter but I would still like to know what I'm doing wrong here.


Is it not suppose to actually change anything and I'm just suppose to note that I need an additional - 16 dB along with the -10 dB to be at reference? I just need to be at -26 dB on the master volume? That doesn't seem to make much sense. I must have something turned off that's preventing the noise level from calibrating the system but I don't find anything in the manual. Hmmm... thinking about it, it's a little scary hearing how some talk about how loud reference is and then thinking about how I sometimes play certain action scenes what apparently is 12 ~ 14 dB above reference










thanks,

Monte


----------



## The Bogg

Ooooh I doubt you're playing 12-14db above reference. If you're referring to Dolby reference then you calibrate each speaker to 75db. That would mean peaks of 105db from each speaker at your listening position and 115db from your sub when playing back at reference level, which is 0 on the MV when calibrated accordingly.

It's not that important to calibrate level, you should just put it to the volume you enjoy. I think it's only necessary to get into the ballpark of 75db in order for ARC to work best.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16337116
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I now have a very repeatable case and will e-mail Anthem support.
> 
> 
> Also I've now run ARC, and generated the following results. Does anyone have any comments? I have a dip on RF at 100Hz that appears to be room related. Dropping the max Eq frequency to 5000Hz doesn't help, and results in poorer High Frequency corrections. Any thoughts? Thanks



These look very good for a first try. Your only significant problem is the one you've identified at 100Hz -- particularly in RF. The residual error in LF is small enough to ignore, but RF needs some help.


This could indeed be a room null, and if so, some repositioning of LF/RF (try further away from the wall/corner behind them -- even inches matter) or some bass trap material in the corner behind them could be what you need.


However I note that LF/RF have significant bass extension, so the problem at 100Hz might possibly also be due to a misconfiguration of the bass in those two speakers. For example, if there is a powered woofer in those speakers there may also be an internal crossover setting which adjusts the transition from that powered woofer to the mid-range. Set too low or too high that will leave a gap between the two frequency ranges. Or your speakers may have a bass port that needs to be opened/closed to improve mid-range response, perhaps at the expense of bass. But you've got plenty of bass from these two speakers, and a good subwoofer, so you can afford to do that in LF/RF.


--------------------------------------


The Measured curve on your subwoofer is a bit odd. ARC has come up with a good solution, but do double check how you have your sub configured. In particular be sure you have disabled any internal crossover it has. For some subs you do this by using a separate "bypass" input jack. For others there is a switch. If there's no way to disable the crossover completely, crank it up to its highest frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.


The low frequency extension in your subwoofer is fine. The peak at 25Hz (corrected by ARC) could be due to an improperly set crossover as just discussed, or it could be due to a bit too much Boundary Gain (sub a couple inches too close to the wall/corner).


--------------------------------------


I notice you have Max EQ Frequency target adjusted to 15KHz. You've got some peakiness at 20Khz that might be useful to correct by pushing that up further. If you are seeing more wobbles in the Calculated curves at lower frequencies when you do that, this may be due to ARC correcting the low frequency of LF/RF. So if you find a way to adjust the Measured bass and low mid-range response from LF/RF, be sure to experiment again with raising Max EQ Frequency higher.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16338365
> 
> 
> Just got new firmware for sony blu-ray..
> 
> 
> Same issue..
> 
> 
> So, did some testing:
> 
> 
> 1 - tried with MIX on (to output PCM to anthem)
> 
> 
> Anthem said it was getting 5.1 PCM (even though the movie is 7.1 DTS HD MA. I thought 7.1 PCM would be outputted).. There was NO ticking sounds. Played perfect.
> 
> 
> 2 - Sent Bitstream again to anthem, but , in Anthem turning OFF the rear channels in setup menu.
> 
> 
> Anthem was getting bitstream 7.1 DTS HD MA. but outputting 5.1 speakers... NO TICKINGS... worked perfect...
> 
> 
> 
> Again, changed anthem settings back to Rears ON, and ticking was again heard..
> 
> 
> Will send this but to anthem..



When you turned on Mix, and got 5.1 LPCM, what you were getting was a decode in the Sony of the "core" lossy DTS compatibility track instead of the 7.1 DTS-HD MA track.


I don't know if your Sony is able to decode DTS-HD MA, but if it can, then switch it to LPCM output *WITHOUT* using Mix and see if you get 7.1 that way.


--------------------------------


Make sure you've got the V2.04 firmware in your D2v.


--------------------------------


It is possible for the player to screw up the DTS-HD MA bitstream output in a way that only messes up the rear speaker content, but what you describe sounds to me more like a bug in the D2v's decoding of 7.1 DTS-HD MA for a 7.1 speaker setup. So yes, please do get the details to Anthem.


If you have, or can borrow, another Blu-Ray player that outputs 7.1 DTS-HD MA (or that decodes it) try the same disc as that too will be useful information for Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/16339277
> 
> 
> Ooooh I doubt you're playing 12-14db above reference. If you're referring to Dolby reference then you calibrate each speaker to 75db. That would mean peaks of 105db from each speaker at your listening position and 115db from your sub when playing back at reference level, which is 0 on the MV when calibrated accordingly.
> 
> It's not that important to calibrate level, you should just put it to the volume you enjoy. I think it's only necessary to get into the ballpark of 75db in order for ARC to work best.



Yeah right now I don't have any way to know where I'm playing relative to reference but it is actually possible to be 12 ~ 14 dB above because in theory I can peak in 130 dB range.


My real concern however is why isn't this noise level doing anything. Apparently it does absolutely nothing outside setting the noise level for making all the speakers the same. It has no impact on source playback level and this is not consistent with what the manual says. According to the manual it should effect playback level.


I'm heading out the door right now to go pick up my ARC but before setting it up I would really like to understand why this isn't working.


thanks,

mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16338430
> 
> 
> The crackling sound has been mentioned before, Nick said it's on the docket to be fixed, but haven't done it yet. But yes please mention to anthem so they see people want it fixed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the issue as well and setting Mute level to "Max" has fixed it for the most part. I still hear it very faintly (when things are paused, etc) but it's much better than before.



Shawn, I believe the problem you are talking about is an issue when the audio stream is stopped -- as when you pause the disc or do a track change.


As I understand it, what Maud'dib is talking about is a problem DURING normal audio playback. That's a different problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16338919
> 
> 
> I've never gotten around to doing this with my system so I don't know if I typically play at, below, or above reference level. Maybe I'm missing something here but I was under the impression that the noise level would have an impact on the play back level of sources in normal operation and that by setting it to achieve 75 dB that the system would be calibrated based on I would have assumed a zero dB main volume setting but as is stated here, a - 10 dB volume setting. The problem I'm having is that the noise level doesn't do anything at all outside the speaker calibration menu. It does change the actual noise level but has no effect on play back of sources. It doesn't matter if I leave it at zero dB or adjust it to -16 dB where I find the 75 dB reference, the playback of a DVD is exactly the same, no change at all! Do I need to activate something for this level calibration to take effect? I'll be going and picking up my ARC in a few hours so after that maybe it doesn't matter but I would still like to know what I'm doing wrong here.
> 
> 
> Is it not suppose to actually change anything and I'm just suppose to note that I need an additional - 16 dB along with the -10 dB to be at reference? I just need to be at -26 dB on the master volume? That doesn't seem to make much sense. I must have something turned off that's preventing the noise level from calibrating the system but I don't find anything in the manual. Hmmm... thinking about it, it's a little scary hearing how some talk about how loud reference is and then thinking about how I sometimes play certain action scenes what apparently is 12 ~ 14 dB above reference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Monte



The Setup > Level Calibration settings apply to processed audio.


So if you are using Analog Direct input from a source they will not have effect. You need to use volume trims in your source device in that case.


--------------------------------------------


If using a D2v or AVM 50v, make sure you have the V2.04 firmware installed. There were significant bugs in the Level Calibration menu in the original D2v and AVM 50v firmware.


For the original D2 or AVM 50 you should be on the V1.33 firmware.


-------------------------------------------


The volume trims set in the Level Calibration menu correspond to what a "reference level" audio input source will produce when the main volume control on the Anthem is set to -10dB.


The level from a speaker will be a function of both the Test Level line and the individual volume trim line for that speaker. When doing a manual setup, typically you will zero all the lines and then adjust Test Level to produce 75dB SPL from the LF speaker. When you then trim up the individual speaker lines, the LF line will, naturally, not need to be changed from 0dB since you've already set it.


When you Upload an ARC configuration, ARC will adjust the volume trims for the speakers and the output from each speaker will now be a combo of the Test Level line, the volume trim line for that speaker, and the affect of boosts and cuts implemented by the Room Correction processing in ARC. It is normal for ARC to Upload volume trims that differ a few dB either side of what you might set up manually as ARC does its analysis using a wider frequency range than the SPL meter will see from the test tones generated by that menu.


During Measurement, ARC ignores any prior settings in the individual speaker volume trim lines, and uses the Test Level (V2.04) or Noise Level (V1.33) lines to set the volume of its own test sweep tones.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*In the Interest of Full Disclosure...*


Most long-time readers know that I do what I do here "for free" simply because I enjoy doing it. I don't work for Anthem, nor do I have any compensation relationship with any Anthem dealer or other interested party.


On occasion, I get PMs from folks who would like more personal help. I don't mind that, but I do encourage folks to post here on the public thread as questions asked and answered here help everybody -- including folks perhaps too shy to post.


None of that will change.


But I've also received inquiries from folks who would like more extensive consulting and training services from me, even to the extent of flying out and spending time with them and their system.


After long thought, I've decided to start accepting such requests. And that brings money into the picture. I don't believe that will change what I do here on AVS, but I thought it only fair to alert people to this "change of status" so nobody gets surprised by it later.


-------------------------------------------------------


If you are interested in discussing this with me, please feel free to send a PM -- i.e., we should not do such discussion in the public thread.


Just so folks know, I am not an ISF Technician, and what I do should not be considered a substitute for a professional display calibration for example. But I do know a thing or two about the Anthem processors and how to get the best out of them -- including ARC. And I strongly believe most Anthem owners will be happier with their purchase if they learn how to do these sorts of things themselves rather than relying on some 3rd party to do the work for them and leave it all still a mystery. This includes figuring out what tools you need to get so you CAN do this sort of thing on your own.


If you would like hands-on training in how best to do this sort of stuff yourself -- whether an individual, a group, or even dealers -- then we should talk.


Now back to your "tweaking" discussion already in progress!

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16340085
> 
> 
> The Setup > Level Calibration settings apply to processed audio. So if you are using Analog Direct input from a source they will not have effect. You need to use volume trims in your source device in that case
> 
> 
> For the original D2 or AVM 50 you should be on the V1.33 firmware.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the response Bob. I'm using a D2 with V1.33. The source is a blu-ray player connected via HDMI. So if I understand you correctly I may have something wrong. By processed audio I assume you mean I should be getting an effect on the HDMI input and I'm not. So, we'll see if ARC can control the level. If not, then there might be something not working properly.

I'll let you know how it goes.


thanks,

Monte


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16340308
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response Bob. I'm using a D2 with V1.33. The source is a blu-ray player connected via HDMI. So if I understand you correctly I may have something wrong. By processed audio I assume you mean I should be getting an effect on the HDMI input and I'm not. So, we'll see if ARC can control the level. If not, then there might be something not working properly.
> 
> I'll let you know how it goes.
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Monte



Monte,

Get a copy of "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray. It has test tones on it so that you can verify what's happening without trying to measure more normal content.


It is perfectly normal for different discs to have different recording levels. So playing content at a main volume of -26dB for many discs is not unusual even if the Level Calibration stuff is working just fine.


What player are you using?


Do you have it hooked up ONLY by HDMI or do you also have another audio connection from it -- particularly multi-channel analog?


I presume you are using the normal speaker outputs from the Anthem and not something like Zone 2 or the digital (recording) output, correct? If you are trying to do anything fancy with your audio input or output configuration, please let me know so we can eliminate that as a cause.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16340358
> 
> 
> Monte,
> 
> Get a copy of "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray. It has test tones on it so that you can verify what's happening without trying to measure more normal content.
> 
> 
> It is perfectly normal for different discs to have different recording levels. So playing content at a main volume of -26dB for many discs is not unusual even if the Level Calibration stuff is working just fine.
> 
> 
> What player are you using?
> 
> 
> Do you have it hooked up ONLY by HDMI or do you also have another audio connection from it -- particularly multi-channel analog?
> 
> 
> I presume you are using the normal speaker outputs from the Anthem and not something like Zone 2 or the digital (recording) output, correct? If you are trying to do anything fancy with your audio input or output configuration, please let me know so we can eliminate that as a cause.
> 
> --Bob



I'll look for that test disc. I'm using a Pioneer BDP05FD player with only the HDMI connection. From there I come right out of the balanced main outputs, not the zone outputs, to the active crossovers and on to the amplifiers.


I would think that in this configuration the noise level should have an effect on play back, am I correct?


I'm still trying to get out of the house to go pick up the ARC, I'm leaving now...this time!


thanks,

Monte


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16340402
> 
> 
> I'll look for that test disc. I'm using a Pioneer BDP05FD player with only the HDMI connection. From there I come right out of the balanced main outputs, not the zone outputs, to the active crossovers and on to the amplifiers.
> 
> 
> I would think that in this configuration the noise level should have an effect on play back, am I correct?
> 
> 
> I'm still trying to get out of the house to go pick up the ARC, I'm leaving now...this time!
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Monte



Yes it should. When you get back, post your current settings in the Level Calibration menu.


There are limits to how much level adjustment can be made, and I want to see if you are possibly running into something like that.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I am assuming that bitsteaming from the Oppo has had no problems unlike what some of us have had with our hddvd or BD players.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16340830
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I am assuming that bitsteaming from the Oppo has had no problems unlike what some of us have had with our hddvd or BD players.
> 
> John



The latest Oppo firmware has some of its OWN problems with audio dropouts when bitstreaming the various DTS formats. Most of those are disc specific.


But I've not had anything like the crackling or snapping when you interrupt the audio stream as for example happens with the Pioneer DV-59avi SD-DVD player.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16340488
> 
> 
> Yes it should. When you get back, post your current settings in the Level Calibration menu.
> 
> 
> There are limits to how much level adjustment can be made, and I want to see if you are possibly running into something like that.
> 
> --Bob



Just got back and I'm about to head upstairs and set it up. I have a pretty big delta at the moment between the mains and the center. I have to put the center at +12 dB and the mains at about -0.5 dB to match the levels. I can take some of that out with the digital crossovers however so the difference doesn't need to be so great.


Again, the noise level has to be set to -16 dB for 75 dB on the SPL meter.


mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16340954
> 
> 
> Just got back and I'm about to head upstairs and set it up. I have a pretty big delta at the moment between the mains and the center. I have to put the center at +12 dB and the mains at about -0.5 dB to match the levels. I can take some of that out with the digital crossovers however so the difference doesn't need to be so great.
> 
> 
> Again, the noise level has to be set to -16 dB for 75 dB on the SPL meter.
> 
> 
> mk



I suspect you are running up against the trim level limits and that's why you are seeing no additional change when you lower Noise Level further.


Try this: Zero out all the lines -- your Center will be too weak of course but this is just temporary. Then compare what you get when playing actual content with Noise Level 0dB vs. Noise Level -10dB. This would be best done playing a calibration disc sending a test tone to just one speaker -- using any fixed setting for the main volume control (e.g., -10dB or -20dB)


You should see a 10dB difference. If that works, then that would indicate you really are running up against the trim limits with your current setup of amps and speakers.


I've not quite figured out what the algorithm is that Anthem uses to enforce these trim limits. I do know there are configurations you can get into which will also limit what you can use for the main volume setting because the combo of gains is at the limit the Anthem can produce.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16341024
> 
> 
> I suspect you are running up against the trim level limits and that's why you are seeing no additional change when you lower Noise Level further.
> 
> 
> --Bob



I think you're right. It's giving me an error stating that the center is greater than 10 dB different than the mains. My options are to remeasure or cancel. I'm out of range on my digital crossovers. The woofer output of the mains is already at the -15 dB limit and one of the center speaker outputs is already at +12.5 db so at best I could just pull it under 10 dB by using that extra 2.5 dB available. I think a better solution will be to put passive attenuators on the outputs of the mains crossovers. If I just knock everything there down 10 dB that should do it.


mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16341090
> 
> 
> I think you're right. It's giving me an error stating that the center is greater than 10 dB different than the mains. My options are to remeasure or cancel. I'm out of range on my digital crossovers. The woofer output of the mains is already at the -15 dB limit and one of the center speaker outputs is already at +12.5 db so at best I could just pull it under 10 dB by using that extra 2.5 dB available. I think a better solution will be to put passive attenuators on the outputs of the mains crossovers. If I just knock everything there down 10 dB that should do it.
> 
> 
> mk



Yeah. As I said, I don't know the details of the trim limits imposed in the Anthem. If you need the precise values, send an email to Anthem tech support and you'll likely get a response on Monday.


We haven't talked about the details of your speaker and amps setup, but it is quite unusual to need this much trim difference. If you feel like describing your setup I'd be interested to hear the details.


If you are mixing RCA and XLR outputs from the Anthem, be aware that there is a built-in 6dB difference between them. See Section 2.2 of the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16340035
> 
> 
> Yeah right now I don't have any way to know where I'm playing relative to reference but it is actually possible to be 12 ~ 14 dB above because in theory I can peak in 130 dB range.
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> mk



Well I stand corrected.










I had a quick peek at your homepage and with the amount of wooferage and those towers I don't doubt that you could hit high spls. Still, even reference level is quite loud - and I like loud but can't imagine 12-14db above

that! In my calibrated setup I get peaks of 105db per speaker at the listening position at master volume level of 0, which is dolby reference level.


----------



## Milt99

I probably should post this in the speaker section, but due to the level of expertise in this forum and weirdness of the problem I'm giving it go here.

Please excuse the length of the post but I'm trying to give very complete info.


My LCR speakers are identical and have LCY ribbon tweeters.

Over the last year, the ribbon in the center speaker has shredded 3 times.

I have a D2\\ARC, connected via hdmi to a PS3. The power amp driving the LCRs, is a BATVK6200 with 3 channels. I'm connecting the D2 to the amp with balanced cables.


I had no issues with the ribbons until after installing the original ARC and setting the correction freq. to 20k. A couple of months ago, I installed the newer version of ARC and again set the correction to 20k. I also swapped the left and center speakers so the last blow-out was with a different tweeter.



After installing the later version of ARC, I notices that is increase the reference level of the volume by about 4-5 db.


The first time the ribbon blew was during No Country For Old Men.

The scene with Llewellyn was in the hotel room and the bad guy Pinged the lock out of the door.


The next time was the scene from Mr. Brooks with the gunfight in stairwell.


The last time was last night watching X-Men when Wolverine is in the cage fight near the beginning of the movie.


It's easy to hear when the tweeter goes out as the "air" goes out of the sound.

FWIW, all discs are BD with No Country being PCM and the last 2 being DTS-MA codecs.


I doubled checked all connections and they are proper and secure.


In my mind these are the possible causes:

1. The D2 has a bad center channel or whacked firmware

2. The amp has a bad channel.

3. The PS3 has something whacked.

4. Setting ARC to 20k correction has introduced an anomaly\\emphasis in the upper freq.

5. A bad cable. Unlikely in my mind but this whole issue is weird.


Since I can't test the D2 or the amp myself, my next step would be to re-measure with the latest version of ARC and the freq to 5k.

I have no idea how ARC could cause this but it is the most immediate thing I can try.


Does anyone have any suggestions or next possible steps?

TIA


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16341227
> 
> 
> Yeah. As I said, I don't know the details of the trim limits imposed in the Anthem. If you need the precise values, send an email to Anthem tech support and you'll likely get a response on Monday.
> 
> 
> We haven't talked about the details of your speaker and amps setup, but it is quite unusual to need this much trim difference. If you feel like describing your setup I'd be interested to hear the details.
> 
> 
> If you are mixing RCA and XLR outputs from the Anthem, be aware that there is a built-in 6dB difference between them. See Section 2.2 of the Manual.
> 
> --Bob



Well, something is definitely wrong. I have an older test DVD, so old it still mainly talks about pro-logic but using it's LCR white noise I get exactly the same reading on the spl meter no matter where the noise level is set. So for some reason it's just not having any effect. It does effect it's own noise source for setting up the different speakers but it has no effect on any playback. I'll send Nick an e-mail and see what he says.


The whole speaker system is DIY. The woofer columns each contain twelve Dayton Reference 15" woofers and are divided into three groups of four. Each of the three channels of MCA30's power four woofers series/parallel to 4 ohms. The main columns each contain eighteen Dayton Reference truncated frame 6" drivers in a series/parallel configuration totaling 4 ohms and is driven by one channel of a P2 amplifier. The other channels of the P2 amplifiers drive the 6.8 ohm load of forty two series parallel Aura 2" drivers. Especially the woofers are extraordinarily sensitive having the full impact of floor to ceiling gain, side wall gain, and also just because there are so many of them. I already have a 12 dB attenuator in line with the crossover output on these and still need to run the crossover output at -15 dB just so I can keep the other two outputs near zero.


The center speaker is far less sensitive not having the benefit of all the various room gains of the main speakers. It consist of two 8 ohm 10" Dayton Reference drivers in parallel, two 7" DR also parallel for 4 ohm total, two 5", one 4" and one DR tweeter. This 5-way system is powered by one PVA5 amplifier. It works great but is far less sensitive than the mains. I'm contemplating adding a second center speaker above the screen which would have it's own additional PVA5. This would give me another +6dB.


I don't know what the real total output capability of this system is. Just based on individual driver sensitivity and available power each line can achieve something around 125 dB not including the 10 dB floor to ceiling gain which is only valid at lower frequencies. All I know is that you make it seem as if the house is going to collapse...which it might anyway, this is all upstairs and those woofers weigh in at 700 lbs ea! I have more information on my web site http://www.mfk-projects.com/home_theatre.htm 


I think about all I can do at the moment is get the attenuators on the mains. This has other advantages, the Behringer digital crossovers are a little noisy so putting in 12 dB of attenuation will help with that. I may not get this done on this trip so it may be next weekend before I have a chance to do much with it. I have to fly back to NM Monday morning. Anyway, I'll keep you posted and I'll send Nick a note about the noise level not working. I hope I don't have to send it off to him.


thanks,

Monte


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/16341330
> 
> 
> I probably should post this in the speaker section, but due to the level of expertise in this forum and weirdness of the problem I'm giving it go here.
> 
> Please excuse the length of the post but I'm trying to give very complete info.
> 
> 
> My LCR speakers are identical and have LCY ribbon tweeters.
> 
> Over the last year, the ribbon in the center speaker has shredded 3 times.
> 
> I have a D2\\ARC, connected via hdmi to a PS3. The power amp driving the LCRs, is a BATVK6200 with 3 channels. I'm connecting the D2 to the amp with balanced cables.
> 
> 
> I had no issues with the ribbons until after installing the original ARC and setting the correction freq. to 20k. A couple of months ago, I installed the newer version of ARC and again set the correction to 20k. I also swapped the left and center speakers so the last blow-out was with a different tweeter.
> 
> 
> 
> After installing the later version of ARC, I notices that is increase the reference level of the volume by about 4-5 db.
> 
> 
> The first time the ribbon blew was during No Country For Old Men.
> 
> The scene with Llewellyn was in the hotel room and the bad guy Pinged the lock out of the door.
> 
> 
> The next time was the scene from Mr. Brooks with the gunfight in stairwell.
> 
> 
> The last time was last night watching X-Men when Wolverine is in the cage fight near the beginning of the movie.
> 
> 
> It's easy to hear when the tweeter goes out as the "air" goes out of the sound.
> 
> FWIW, all discs are BD with No Country being PCM and the last 2 being DTS-MA codecs.
> 
> 
> I doubled checked all connections and they are proper and secure.
> 
> 
> In my mind these are the possible causes:
> 
> 1. The D2 has a bad center channel or whacked firmware
> 
> 2. The amp has a bad channel.
> 
> 3. The PS3 has something whacked.
> 
> 4. Setting ARC to 20k correction has introduced an anomaly\\emphasis in the upper freq.
> 
> 5. A bad cable. Unlikely in my mind but this whole issue is weird.
> 
> 
> Since I can't test the D2 or the amp myself, my next step would be to re-measure with the latest version of ARC and the freq to 5k.
> 
> I have no idea how ARC could cause this but it is the most immediate thing I can try.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions or next possible steps?
> 
> TIA



The damage may be due to distortion rather than absolute volume levels.


Play the same sort of content on the PS3 and then press the Triangle button to bring up the on-screen options menu. Find the Volume setting in there and check to make sure it is still at the factory default setting (middle). Increasing it by more than 1 step has been proven to produce distortion.


------------------------------------------


Post your ARC charts. If ARC is trying to correct a Measured dip in the 10KHz to 20KHz range then the added output may be too much either for your amp or your tweeters to handle cleanly. This is why ARC imposes a maximum of 6dB boost up there in the first place.


If you are not on ARC V2.1 yet, you should definitely move to that version -- and I would recommend you re-Measure.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16341368
> 
> 
> Well, something is definitely wrong. I have an older test DVD, so old it still mainly talks about pro-logic but using it's LCR white noise I get exactly the same reading on the spl meter no matter where the noise level is set. So for some reason it's just not having any effect. It does effect it's own noise source for setting up the different speakers but it has no effect on any playback. I'll send Nick an e-mail and see what he says.



Just to be clear here, did you reset the volume trims in Level Calibration to 0 before trying this? I believe the +12 setting you've been using for Center has limited what you can get out of adjusting Noise Level.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16341408
> 
> 
> Just to be clear here, did you reset the volume trims in Level Calibration to 0 before trying this? I believe the +12 setting you've been using for Center has limited what you can get out of adjusting Noise Level.
> 
> --Bob



Oh sorry for the confusion, I forgot to mention that I did zero everything out other than just the noise level itself. I tried 0 dB and -10 dB and no effect at all. I don't think that the test disc being an old pro-logic disc should matter. Also, given that I have tried DVD movie material I think 10 dB and especially 16 dB should be more than an obvious difference with or without an SPL meter.


Edit: Right now instead of setting the noise level I set the main speakers at -12 dB and the center at +.5 dB. This puts the noise level at about 78.8 dB on the SPL meter and it does effect normal playback. So by doing this it seems I can calibrate closer to reference. Once I attenuate the mains I can just use these settings instead of setting the noise level. So in theory now I can just set the main volume at -13 dB and be at reference.


Yet another edit: If that is reference, I don't think reference is very loud so it's probably not reference.


mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16341444
> 
> 
> Oh sorry for the confusion, I forgot to mention that I did zero everything out other than just the noise level itself. I tried 0 dB and -10 dB and no effect at all. I don't think that the test disc being an old pro-logic disc should matter. Also, given that I have tried DVD movie material I think 10 dB and especially 16 dB should be more than an obvious difference with or without an SPL meter.
> 
> 
> Edit: Right now instead of setting the noise level I set the main speakers at -12 dB and the center at +.5 dB. This puts the noise level at about 78.8 dB on the SPL meter and it does effect normal playback. So by doing this it seems I can calibrate closer to reference. Once I attenuate the mains I can just use these settings instead of setting the noise level. So in theory now I can just set the main volume at -13 dB and be at reference.
> 
> 
> Yet another edit: If that is reference, I don't think reference is very loud so it's probably not reference.
> 
> 
> mk



75dB -- the recommended level for home theater -- is not really all that loud.


85dB -- the reference level for movie theaters -- is too loud for most people for home use, particularly in loud passages which can easily top 100db. That's why 75dB is more commonly recommended for home use.


While waiting to reach Anthem on Monday, you might want to consider a reload of the V1.33 firmware just to eliminate that as a possibility.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16341384
> 
> 
> The damage may be due to distortion rather than absolute volume levels.



I absolutely agree on distortion as the cause.

But from where?

In the past, I was able to listen better soundtracks at 0.0db without any issues.



> Quote:
> Play the same sort of content on the PS3 and then press the Triangle button to bring up the on-screen options menu. Find the Volume setting in there and check to make sure it is still at the factory default setting (middle). Increasing it by more than 1 step has been proven to produce distortion.



Thanks for the tip. I checked it, it is at the normal setting.


------------------------------------------


> Quote:
> Post your ARC charts. If ARC is trying to correct a Measured dip in the 10KHz to 20KHz range then the added output may be too much either for your amp or your tweeters to handle cleanly. This is why ARC imposes a maximum of 6dB boost up there in the first place.



I think you're right on here.



> Quote:
> If you are not on ARC V2.1 yet, you should definitely move to that version -- and I would recommend you re-Measure.
> 
> --Bob



My plan is to do exactly that, set the limit at 5khz and be satisfied.

Thanks Bob.


----------



## Nick HT

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
These look very good for a first try. Your only significant problem is the one you've identified at 100Hz -- particularly in RF. The residual error in LF is small enough to ignore, but RF needs some help.


This could indeed be a room null, and if so, some repositioning of LF/RF (try further away from the wall/corner behind them -- even inches matter) or some bass trap material in the corner behind them could be what you need.


However I note that LF/RF have significant bass extension, so the problem at 100Hz might possibly also be due to a misconfiguration of the bass in those two speakers. For example, if there is a powered woofer in those speakers there may also be an internal crossover setting which adjusts the transition from that powered woofer to the mid-range. Set too low or too high that will leave a gap between the two frequency ranges. Or your speakers may have a bass port that needs to be opened/closed to improve mid-range response, perhaps at the expense of bass. But you've got plenty of bass from these two speakers, and a good subwoofer, so you can afford to do that in LF/RF.


--------------------------------------


The Measured curve on your subwoofer is a bit odd. ARC has come up with a good solution, but do double check how you have your sub configured. In particular be sure you have disabled any internal crossover it has. For some subs you do this by using a separate "bypass" input jack. For others there is a switch. If there's no way to disable the crossover completely, crank it up to its highest frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.


The low frequency extension in your subwoofer is fine. The peak at 25Hz (corrected by ARC) could be due to an improperly set crossover as just discussed, or it could be due to a bit too much Boundary Gain (sub a couple inches too close to the wall/corner).


--------------------------------------


I notice you have Max EQ Frequency target adjusted to 15KHz. You've got some peakiness at 20Khz that might be useful to correct by pushing that up further. If you are seeing more wobbles in the Calculated curves at lower frequencies when you do that, this may be due to ARC correcting the low frequency of LF/RF. So if you find a way to adjust the Measured bass and low mid-range response from LF/RF, be sure to experiment again with raising Max EQ Frequency higher.

--Bob
Bob,


Thank you for the very extensive feedback. It has helped a lot!










My LF/RF are B&W 803's - no powered woofers. I tried multiple locations and moving them away from the back wall did not help with Bass, and made the 100Hz problem worse. However moving them sideways by 4" made a huge difference to the 100Hz issue -- suprising as they were already 34" away from the sidewalls - just shows the impact of room resonance/nulls.


I also played around with the Sub (B&W ASW4000)-- the Low frequency cutoff was already set to ts highest position (120Hz), and there isn't a bypass. Lowering the cutoff didn't help, but having tried six locations, one did help a little with the 25Hz peak. ARC has done a good job, but I still don't understand the measured curve.


I also played around with positioning of RS/LS -- movements of 1.5" improved the response to match LS.


I checked 15k and 20kHz EQ for all tests -- as the results improved so did the 20kHz EQ -- early on the low frequency issues got worse, but as speaker positioning improved the HF improved with little or no trade off on LF.


I've attached the latest results in case you have any further observations.


One final question -- what is the benefit of selecting a different profile for Music v's Movie and are there any guidelines? Thanks again!!

 

ARC3.doc 394k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16342253
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thank you for the very extensive feedback. It has helped a lot!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My LF/RF are B&W 803's - no powered woofers. I tried multiple locations and moving them away from the back wall did not help with Bass, and made the 100Hz problem worse. However moving them sideways by 4" made a huge difference to the 100Hz issue -- suprising as they were already 34" away from the sidewalls - just shows the impact of room resonance/nulls.
> 
> 
> I also played around with the Sub (B&W ASW4000)-- the Low frequency cutoff was already set to ts highest position (120Hz), and there isn't a bypass. Lowering the cutoff didn't help, but having tried six locations, one did help a little with the 25Hz peak. ARC has done a good job, but I still don't understand the measured curve.
> 
> 
> I also played around with positioning of RS/LS -- movements of 1.5" improved the response to match LS.
> 
> 
> I checked 15k and 20kHz EQ for all tests -- as the results improved so did the 20kHz EQ -- early on the low frequency issues got worse, but as speaker positioning improved the HF improved with little or no trade off on LF.
> 
> 
> I've attached the latest results in case you have any further observations.
> 
> 
> One final question -- what is the benefit of selecting a different profile for Music v's Movie and are there any guidelines? Thanks again!!



These results look great! I think it is time to declare victory.


The residual error in LF/RF near 100Hz is tiny, and in my opinion completely ignorable. There's really nothing else I can see that you need to address.


You should spend some time listening to this. I think you will enjoy it a lot!


----------------------------------------


The main reason to do a separate Music configuration is if you want to eliminate some of the speakers from your Music listening.


For example, some folks prefer to do their Music listening without a subwoofer -- depending on their LF/RF to run "full range". Other folks like to eliminate the Center speaker to improve "front staging".


Including the Surround speakers in the mix means that ARC needs to come up with a solution that works for them as well. if your Surrounds are weak, that could mean a compromise in the bass solution for the front speakers and sub.


So setting up an LF/RF solution, or on LF/RF/Sub solution, could give you better stereo results than letting ARC do the solution for all of your speakers and simply setting the Anthem to Stereo audio mode when you play music.


In your case, much of the correction ARC is doing is in LF/RF anyway, so I'm not sure you'd gain much by taking the Surrounds out of the mix, and leaving them in there gives you the flexibility to use a surround mode like PLIIx-Music for your Music listening if you want to.


In my case, my choice of front speakers and sub were made with the idea in mind of depending on the sub to do bass extension for Music, so of course I need to keep the sub in the mix. I also like to have the option to use surround sound for Music when I want to so I leave the surrounds in the mix. But I have eliminated the Center speaker from my Music configuration. This did result in some minor changes to the solution for the rest of the speakers. Most of the time I use this 4.1 configuration in Stereo audio mode so only the LF/RF/Sub are actually active for Music from stereo sources.


When playing Music from multi-channel sources, I just use my Movie speaker configuration -- trusting to the sound mixer to have done the right thing with Center and the Surrounds.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16342253
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thank you for the very extensive feedback. It has helped a lot!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My LF/RF are B&W 803's - no powered woofers. I tried multiple locations and moving them away from the back wall did not help with Bass, and made the 100Hz problem worse. However moving them sideways by 4" made a huge difference to the 100Hz issue -- suprising as they were already 34" away from the sidewalls - just shows the impact of room resonance/nulls.
> 
> 
> I also played around with the Sub (B&W ASW4000)-- the Low frequency cutoff was already set to ts highest position (120Hz), and there isn't a bypass. Lowering the cutoff didn't help, but having tried six locations, one did help a little with the 25Hz peak. ARC has done a good job, but I still don't understand the measured curve.
> 
> 
> I also played around with positioning of RS/LS -- movements of 1.5" improved the response to match LS.
> 
> 
> I checked 15k and 20kHz EQ for all tests -- as the results improved so did the 20kHz EQ -- early on the low frequency issues got worse, but as speaker positioning improved the HF improved with little or no trade off on LF.
> 
> 
> I've attached the latest results in case you have any further observations.
> 
> 
> One final question -- what is the benefit of selecting a different profile for Music v's Movie and are there any guidelines? Thanks again!!



Nice Curves


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16342253
> 
> 
> I also played around with the Sub (B&W ASW4000)-- the Low frequency cutoff was already set to ts highest position (120Hz), and there isn't a bypass.



There's no bypass switch but there is a separate RCA level input for lfe that bypasses the crossover on that sub. The only problem with it is that it is only chosen over the other input above a certain volume and sometimes at low volumes it doesn't trigger.


----------



## grafcom

Folks... with all this detailed discussions of praise for the Anthem D2, no one seems to be focusing on a current SERIOUS limitation of this unit. First off... I own one of these for almost a year now. Anyone buying this unit is looking for a "top of the line" capable product. So imagine my disappointment when I connected my Runco PlasmaWall™ XP-50DHD (arguably one of if not the best unit produced) to my D2 and find that the HDCP is incompatible, thereby preventing watching any content via DVD, Blu-Ray, or Satellite delivered!! Now, before any of you start giving advice on tweaks, cables, etc., let me further explain that we've (including my dealer) done all that going directly thru Runco's and Anthem's (Nick) support. All has been eliminated and it's come down to the need for Anthem to adjust the firmware to correct the problem. So, (if you can believe this) Runco shipped the exact Plasma unit I have (over $10,000 value) to Anthem for them use to do this, and Anthem promissed within a couple of weeks we would have a firmware update to correct this. That was MONTHS ago!! Despite being called over and over by my Dealer, Anthem has sent NOTHING and on many occassions won't even call him back when he has had to leave voice mail! At this point, despite the thousands of dollars I've invested in Anthem equipment, I'm about to have to scrap it all and find a TRUE high end system with decent support that will actually support their products with honest service!! Moral of the story is think TWICE or more before going in Anthem's direction! Despite my patience on this, it's time folks knew the facts on this and don't make the same misguided purchase choices I made with Anthem equipment!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That's got to be frustrating! I wonder what Runco is doing differently such that the Anthem can't connect to it? No chance of getting the needed fix from the Runco side either?

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

gratcom - I understand your frustration and wouldn't blame you at all if you moved on to another processor. Truth is the real culprit here is HDCP and not Anthem or Runco. Most of us have had exemplary support form Anthem and I know Runco has a pretty good reputation also. I can only guess that Anthem being a relatively small "boutique" company doesn't have the resources to respond to the matter in a timely manner to your satisfaction.


These HDCP issues can be very difficult to sort out at times. I would ask does the Runco panel work with your other HDCP sources without the Anthem in the loop? Obviously the Anthem works with an awful lot of displays you have to wonder what the Runco is doing differently. In any case if you do move on to another processor you are going to have to make sure it works as there are no guarantees when it comes to HDCP other then a lot of finger pointing between CE companies. Lets thank Hollywood for sticking us with a half baked copy protection scheme. I don't envy the CE companies that have to deal with these issues.


----------



## grafcom




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16344446
> 
> 
> That's got to be frustrating! I wonder what Runco is doing differently such that the Anthem can't connect to it? No chance of getting the needed fix from the Runco side either?
> 
> --Bob



Actually, we tried that route first. Runco got on it pretty quickly and with a D2 in hand couldn't change their code to get the D2 to recognize that HDCP was enabled. In fact, when you look at the Runco LCD display, it clearly recognizes the mode and it properly is displaying that HDCP is enabled and functioning. The problem is that the D2 is not acknowledging that fact and is displaying "HDCP capable monitor not connected".


That's when Runco offered to send Anthem a unit (free of charge) for them make the correction on their part.


----------



## Nick HT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16342364
> 
> 
> These results look great! I think it is time to declare victory.
> 
> 
> The residual error in LF/RF near 100Hz is tiny, and in my opinion completely ignorable. There's really nothing else I can see that you need to address.
> 
> 
> You should spend some time listening to this. I think you will enjoy it a lot!
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The main reason to do a separate Music configuration is if you want to eliminate some of the speakers from your Music listening.
> 
> 
> For example, some folks prefer to do their Music listening without a subwoofer -- depending on their LF/RF to run "full range". Other folks like to eliminate the Center speaker to improve "front staging".
> 
> 
> Including the Surround speakers in the mix means that ARC needs to come up with a solution that works for them as well. if your Surrounds are weak, that could mean a compromise in the bass solution for the front speakers and sub.
> 
> 
> So setting up an LF/RF solution, or on LF/RF/Sub solution, could give you better stereo results than letting ARC do the solution for all of your speakers and simply setting the Anthem to Stereo audio mode when you play music.
> 
> 
> In your case, much of the correction ARC is doing is in LF/RF anyway, so I'm not sure you'd gain much by taking the Surrounds out of the mix, and leaving them in there gives you the flexibility to use a surround mode like PLIIx-Music for your Music listening if you want to.
> 
> 
> In my case, my choice of front speakers and sub were made with the idea in mind of depending on the sub to do bass extension for Music, so of course I need to keep the sub in the mix. I also like to have the option to use surround sound for Music when I want to so I leave the surrounds in the mix. But I have eliminated the Center speaker from my Music configuration. This did result in some minor changes to the solution for the rest of the speakers. Most of the time I use this 4.1 configuration in Stereo audio mode so only the LF/RF/Sub are actually active for Music from stereo sources.
> 
> 
> When playing Music from multi-channel sources, I just use my Movie speaker configuration -- trusting to the sound mixer to have done the right thing with Center and the Surrounds.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thank you for taking the time to review, and the thorough explanation of Movie / Music configuration options.


I've now spent several hours enjoying the noticibly improved sound in my home theatre


----------



## grafcom




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16344513
> 
> 
> gratcom - I understand your frustration and wouldn't blame you at all if you moved on to another processor. Truth is the real culprit here is HDCP and not Anthem or Runco. Most of us have had exemplary support form Anthem and I know Runco has a pretty good reputation also. I can only guess that Anthem being a relatively small "boutique" company doesn't have the resources to respond to the matter in a timely manner to your satisfaction.
> 
> 
> These HDCP issues can be very difficult to sort out at times. I would ask does the Runco panel work with your other HDCP sources without the Anthem in the loop? Obviously the Anthem works with an awful lot of displays you have to wonder what the Runco is doing differently. In any case if you do move on to another processor you are going to have to make sure it works as there are no guarantees when it comes to HDCP other then a lot of finger pointing between CE companies. Lets thank Hollywood for sticking us with a half baked copy protection scheme. I don't envy the CE companies that have to deal with these issues.



Yes... connected directly, absolutely everything else works perfectly with Runco.. I have a Kaleidescape system, a Sony Blu-Ray and the new DirectTV HR21 Pro DVR that all work flawlessly. Anthem first asked the question of Runco as to whether Runco could handle repeater mode, to which Runco replied absolutely they did. But, the problem is not in the Runco seeing HDCP mode, but rather the Anthem's handshaking with the Runco to see that it is.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16344569
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to review, and the thorough explanation of Movie / Music configuration options.
> 
> 
> I've now spent several hours enjoying the noticibly improved sound in my home theatre



I thought that might be the case, as these guys are just on their way out the door to come celebrate with you!











--Bob


----------



## Nick HT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16342253
> 
> 
> I also played around with the Sub (B&W ASW4000)-- the Low frequency cutoff was already set to ts highest position (120Hz), and there isn't a bypass.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/16344263
> 
> 
> There's no bypass switch but there is a separate RCA level input for lfe that bypasses the crossover on that sub. The only problem with it is that it is only chosen over the other input above a certain volume and sometimes at low volumes it doesn't trigger.



Thanks -- my mistake I was already using the separate RCA input. I'd mis-read the manual on the low pass filter, so I was already bypassing it. I use a relatively moderate gain on the Sub to eliminate the trigger issue.


----------



## Doozer428

I've been researching for my new setup, and have a few questions for the experts out there.


equipment: D2v (arriving this week?), PS3, Panasonic 50PZ80.


1. should I set the PS3 to 1080/24 (or auto?) and let Anthem convert it to 1080/60 (the panasonic can accept 24, but converts it to 60... I assume the Anthem is the best place for this to occur?)


2. it is unclear to me what display settings I should use for the PS3 since it's going into a video processor. Can someone help with the various settings? I assume I want the scaler for sd-dvd set to off (since this will be done by the Anthem) but what about the HDMI format (auto or rgb or Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr) and rgb (full or limited) and superwhite (on or off)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16345037
> 
> 
> I've been researching for my new setup, and have a few questions for the experts out there.
> 
> 
> equipment: D2v (arriving this week?), PS3, Panasonic 50PZ80.
> 
> 
> 1. should I set the PS3 to 1080/24 (or auto?) and let Anthem convert it to 1080/60 (the panasonic can accept 24, but converts it to 60... I assume the Anthem is the best place for this to occur?)
> 
> 
> 2. it is unclear to me what display settings I should use for the PS3 since it's going into a video processor. Can someone help with the various settings? I assume I want the scaler for sd-dvd set to off (since this will be done by the Anthem) but what about the HDMI format (auto or rgb or Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr) and rgb (full or limited) and superwhite (on or off)?



Be sure to check out the PS3 FAQ sticky thread in the Blu-Ray players forum as it has lots of useful tips.


The first thing to do is let the PS3 do its automatic setup of HDMI Video and Audio. It will do this when you first hook it up to the D2v or you can do it again starting with Settings > Video Settings in the PS3. This will set up the PS3 for up to 1080p/60 HDMI video output and up to 7.1 HDMI LPCM audio output which is what you want with the D2v.


After doing the automatic setup, there are still some PS3 settings you nneed to change from its defaults. Set the PS3 to BD video 1080p/24 Auto. Set that way, the PS3 will output 1080p/24 for Blu-Ray movie discs and 1080i/60 for Blu-Ray video-based discs such as live concerts. Basically this means the PS3 is sending the D2v just what comes off the disc -- unmodified -- which is what you want from the PS3.


The other settings you want from the PS3 are:


1) BD/DVD video output Automatic (which gives you YCbCr for the D2v)

2) SuperWhite ON (necessary to get Blacker than Black and Peak White video data)

3) RGB Full

4) BD/DVD Audio (HDMI) LPCM


The RGB setting will be used when the PS3 is displaying the XMB user interface and when playing PS3 games. It causes the PS3 to use Extended RGB output for such content which is the best match for that content. You need to make one change in the D2v to match this. While viewing content from the PS3, press and hold "7" on the D2v remote to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu for that input. In the Picture panel, change Input Color Space so that "Extended RGB" is checked. YCbCr Auto will also be checked by default -- leave it that way.


Set this way, the D2v will make the necessary change automatically according to whether the PS3 is sending out YCbCr or RGB at the moment. This is why you can use RGB Full from the PS3 even though the PS3 FAQ recommends RGB Limited for use with other receivers and pre-amp processors.


Since your display does not show /24 input as a multiple of /24, use 1080p/60 output to your display from the D2v and let the D2v do the conversion of /24 content to /60 for you.


HDMI LPCM audio from the PS3 will send up to 7.1 channels to the D2v. Use this even if you have less than 7.1 speakers. The D2v will take care of any down-mixing you need.


------------------------------------------


I don't use my PS3 for SD-DVD playback because there's no way to avoid having the PS3 do the de-interlacing (which it doesn't do very well). But of course many people do use it for that. You can turn off the SD scaling for SD-DVDs -- which will get you HDMI 480p from the PS3 -- or you can set it to Normal -- which will get you 1080p/60 from the PS3. Based on limited use, I think I like using the upscaled output better from the PS3 -- which probably is not so much due to its scaler being very good as that its 480p output has other problems that are a bit harder to characterize.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *grafcom* /forum/post/16344404
> 
> 
> Folks... with all this detailed discussions of praise for the Anthem D2, no one seems to be focusing on a current SERIOUS limitation of this unit. First off... I own one of these for almost a year now. Anyone buying this unit is looking for a "top of the line" capable product. So imagine my disappointment when I connected my Runco PlasmaWall XP-50DHD (arguably one of if not the best unit produced) to my D2 and find that the HDCP is incompatible, thereby preventing watching any content via DVD, Blu-Ray, or Satellite delivered!! Now, before any of you start giving advice on tweaks, cables, etc., let me further explain that we've (including my dealer) done all that going directly thru Runco's and Anthem's (Nick) support. All has been eliminated and it's come down to the need for Anthem to adjust the firmware to correct the problem. So, (if you can believe this) Runco shipped the exact Plasma unit I have (over $10,000 value) to Anthem for them use to do this, and Anthem promissed within a couple of weeks we would have a firmware update to correct this. That was MONTHS ago!! Despite being called over and over by my Dealer, Anthem has sent NOTHING and on many occassions won't even call him back when he has had to leave voice mail! At this point, despite the thousands of dollars I've invested in Anthem equipment, I'm about to have to scrap it all and find a TRUE high end system with decent support that will actually support their products with honest service!! Moral of the story is think TWICE or more before going in Anthem's direction! Despite my patience on this, it's time folks knew the facts on this and don't make the same misguided purchase choices I made with Anthem equipment!



BEFORE you buy *THIS UNIT* - you might want to talk to them. In

theory it is suppose to fix handshake problems between units.


I'm sure the Problem is Runco's - this has to be the only HDMI

handshake problem we have heard of. Just because Runco can't

fix it doesn't mean it is Anthem's responsibility to fix it for Runco.


----------



## grafcom




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16345249
> 
> 
> BEFORE you buy *THIS UNIT* - you might want to talk to them. In
> 
> theory it is suppose to fix handshake problems between units.
> 
> 
> I'm sure the Problem is Runco's - this has to be the only HDMI
> 
> handshake problem we have heard of. Just because Runco can't
> 
> fix it doesn't mean it is Anthem's responsibility to fix it for Runco.



Why are you so sure the problem is with Runco? Frankly, just because it hasn't been posted here does not at all mean there haven't been problems with HDMI handshaking! Quite the contrary. In fact, I was told months ago by a tech at Anthem that there was a similar problem that was fixed in a prior firmware release from another brand (I will not name since I don't own).


Regardless with starting a debate here about "whose" responsibility it might be to fix, my problem is that Anthem agreed to accept that job when the agreement for Runco to ship them a unit was done. They told my Dealer that within a couple of weeks (we'd get firmware file to upload to the Anthem and if it worked successfully, it would be incorporated into the general firmware release. Again.. this was months ago and not one word of progress period has been heard and the dealer can't get responses back.


This goes to Anthem making a commitment and not keeping it....period.


----------



## grafcom




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *grafcom* /forum/post/16345358
> 
> 
> Why are you so sure the problem is with Runco? Frankly, just because it hasn't been posted here does not at all mean there haven't been problems with HDMI handshaking! Quite the contrary. In fact, I was told months ago by a tech at Anthem that there was a similar problem that was fixed in a prior firmware release from another brand (I will not name since I don't own).
> 
> 
> Regardless with starting a debate here about "whose" responsibility it might be to fix, my problem is that Anthem agreed to accept that job when the agreement for Runco to ship them a unit was done. They told my Dealer that within a couple of weeks (we'd get firmware file to upload to the Anthem and if it worked successfully, it would be incorporated into the general firmware release. Again.. this was months ago and not one word of progress period has been heard and the dealer can't get responses back.
> 
> 
> This goes to Anthem making a commitment and not keeping it....period.



Incidentally, I'd sing the praises of Anthem if they'd just follow thru and do what they said....which they'd deserve in that case. I know for a fact that Runcos work fine with other seemingly lesser quality AV units. I doubt seriously that it would take much to fix it...someone at Anthem just needs to actually do it. Heck... I'd even upgrade it to the D2v if I knew it would solve the problem. I almost wonder if they don't want to spend the time on the firmware of the D2 because of the newer D2v unit. So... I'd do that if that would fix it. If you read my earlier comments, you know that the Runco and the Kaleidescape systems alone show my investments....let alone the costs of the Anthem. I just want to be able to USE THEM!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Do you know if they've tried the Runco with the D2v? The HDMI chips in the D2v are different of course.

--Bob


----------



## Verbow

Question:


Do you guys feel the D2 provodes enough "bang for the buck" if you had no need for the video processing? I'm using a Lumagen Radiance, and while I know the Anthem has great deinterlacing, scaling etc it doesn't have a color management system, so I'm sticking with the Radiance.


My main requirements for a new pre/pro are HDMI connectivity and room correction, as well as of course overall great sound. The ARC seems to be getting consistently better reviews on these forums than Audyssey, unless one bumps to Audyssey pro, and because my room is a very nicely decorated (and therefore untreated!) finished basement I'm considering taking the plunge on a D2v.


I'm driving B&W 803s and a Velodyne DD18 with an NAD M25. There's a lot of great features packed into these boxes but as many of them are video I'd love to hear whether you'd by a D2v again if you were using it strictly for audio.


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Verbow* /forum/post/16345546
> 
> 
> Question:
> 
> 
> Do you guys feel the D2 provodes enough "bang for the buck" if you had no need for the video processing? I'm using a Lumagen Radiance, and while I know the Anthem has great deinterlacing, scaling etc it doesn't have a color management system, so I'm sticking with the Radiance.
> 
> 
> My main requirements for a new pre/pro are HDMI connectivity and room correction, as well as of course overall great sound. The ARC seems to be getting consistently better reviews on these forums than Audyssey, unless one bumps to Audyssey pro, and because my room is a very nicely decorated (and therefore untreated!) finished basement I'm considering taking the plunge on a D2v.
> 
> 
> I'm driving B&W 803s and a Velodyne DD18 with an NAD M25. There's a lot of great features packed into these boxes but as many of them are video I'd love to hear whether you'd by a D2v again if you were using it strictly for audio.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Have you considered replacing your display with one that doesn't need external color correction? That could simplify your choice of audio/video processing solution. Color management really is something that should be done in the display itself, anyway.


As much as I like my D2v, I don't think I would have got it if I didn't feel I could use the integrated HDMI audio/video solution it provides. This has nothing to do with its audio chops -- which I feel are outstanding. But more with my bias that integrated HDMI audio/video is the way to go.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay

Well I have it working. I'm going to need time to do extensive comparisons with my Earthworks reference microphone and ARTA measurement system before I can trust it I think.


I was momentarily dismayed by the room gain until I figured out I could just zero it out. My first thought here was this was completely wrong but given it is a spacial average measurement I think it makes sense. Most people use monopole woofers which essentially have a directivity factor of 1 which means there is always going to be more low frequency energy in the room where the environment becomes 2-pi. The on axis anechoic response of the speaker would need to have the bass rolled off in order to have a flat in room response which would sound thin. This is not the case with dipole woofers which have a directivity factor of 3. Dipole and cardioid woofers radiate about 4.8 dB less low frequency energy into the room relative to the on axis response. Consequently the on axis anechoic and in room spacial responses are more similar having slightly the reverse ratio of monopoles so if anything, the room gain should be slightly negative. Anyway this is getting off course, but if it had not been possible to zero the room gain I would have sent ARC back because the need for this is not applicable to my speaker system.


I'm running out of time to play with this thing, I'm on a plane out of town first thing in the morning and have other things to do. In fact I got little done on this short trip because I spent too much time playing with this already. As soon as I have more time I'll do some extensive comparisons with ARTA and get myself more comfortable with what ARC is doing.


My current responses are attached. I think I can improve on these once I have time to complete the room acoustic treatments.


Thank you very much Bob for all your help, you should work for those guys, I think you know this stuff as well or better than anyone there! BTW, I never did get the manual level control to work but that's ok, I can control it externally or if I ultimately accept ARC I'll just let it control that.


Edit: Edit: Never mind I found it. Room EQ on! (I deleted the stupid question of the first edit)


Monte


----------



## Verbow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16345582
> 
> 
> Have you considered replacing your display with one that doesn't need external color correction? That could simplify your choice of audio/video processing solution. Color management really is something that should be done in the display itself, anyway.
> 
> 
> As much as I like my D2v, I don't think I would have got it if I didn't feel I could use the integrated HDMI audio/video solution it provides. This has nothing to do with its audio chops -- which I feel are outstanding. But more with my bias that integrated HDMI audio/video is the way to go.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I have a Marantz projector and no immediate plans to replace it - it throws a great picture. Even projectors with a CMS, like the JVC RS20, often have a poorly implemented system. My BDP has 2 HDMI outs, so I can send HDMI audio straight to the pre/pro and not worry about video.


With that said, I appreciate your opinion. I think any current pre/pro is going to have video processing (and Anthem's seems better then most), but in any event I'll be "wasting" half of any processor I pick up. It's audio features look great, but it's hard to audition one with them in short supply right now. The alternative would be to go with something less expensive since I don't need the video processing, like a Marantz AV8003, but if the audio (and ARC) is much better in the Anthem I'd be willing to pony up the difference.


Would love to hear other opinions...


----------



## grafcom




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16345525
> 
> 
> Do you know if they've tried the Runco with the D2v? The HDMI chips in the D2v are different of course.
> 
> --Bob



No, I don't... can't get call backs to even ask.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *grafcom* /forum/post/16346027
> 
> 
> No, I don't... can't get call backs to even ask.



Are you calling them yourself or having the dealer do it? You made mention above about the dealer handling this with them, but I don't know if you've also tried yourself. In addition, they can be reached by email. Based on everyone else's experience here, it is really unusual for them to be unresponsive for no good reason (e.g., the person working the issue is out of the office).


As I understand it, the problem you are having is obvious and easily reproducible failure as opposed to something subtle or intermittent, correct? So it should be trivially easy for them to hook up a D2v to the loaner Runco and see if it reacts differently than a D2.


Let me ask another basic question: Do you know for sure that Anthem has reproduced the problem in their lab using the loaner Runco -- i.e., they know it is definitely not a problem in just your D2?

--Bob


----------



## Montekay

Well, I can't seem to stop playing with this so I guess nothing else will get done on this trip.


I found a couple strange things and wondered if anyone else had noticed this...


Under source setup k. EQ you have +/- 12 dB control over both LF and HF but do you? There are a couple strange things. One, when you boost the HF 12 dB (didn't try numbers in between) you also get boost in the LF response. Also, the LF control doesn't seem to work properly. With 12 dB boost, you do in fact get something around 12 dB but if you attenuate -12 dB, you get only a few dB attenuation that isn't consistent. I think something is wrong with this. Maybe I should e-mail these screen captures to Nick.


mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16346206
> 
> 
> Well, I can't seem to stop playing with this so I guess nothing else will get done on this trip.
> 
> 
> I found a couple strange things and wondered if anyone else had noticed this...
> 
> 
> Under source setup k. EQ you have +/- 12 dB control over both LF and HF but do you? There are a couple strange things. One, when you boost the HF 12 dB (didn't try numbers in between) you also get boost in the LF response. Also, the LF control doesn't seem to work properly. With 12 dB boost, you do in fact get something around 12 dB but if you attenuate -12 dB, you get only a few dB attenuation that isn't consistent. I think something is wrong with this. Maybe I should e-mail these screen captures to Nick.
> 
> 
> mk



I suspect you are running up against the undocumented limits in the over-all boost/cut available. But frankly I've never used these EQ settings myself, so that's just a guess.


Are you just playing around with them, or do you have a real need to use these?

--Bob


----------



## Montekay

There is one thing I would like to do but can't because something is wrong. Either I'm doing something stupid (which is usually the case) or something isn't right with the way this thing works. I would like to AB between ARC correction and no correction. Under the source menu m. Room EQ (on/off) I can turn it off but the problem is that it puts in that stupid room correction.


I want to complare between ARC corrections and a flat response on the fly so I can be listening and just turn it on and off without putting in that bass boost. I don't want that bass boost!


Anyway this time I think something is really wrong because it's already proven that the LF and HF EQ do not work properly. I'm sending that data to Nick so hopefully it can be resolved but right now I just want to get rid of that boost that I get when I turn ARC corrections off so I can compare it to flat.


Bob, is it me being stupid again? Is there a way to compare flat to ARC EQ?


thanks,

Monte


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16346245
> 
> 
> I suspect you are running up against the undocumented limits in the over-all boost/cut available. But frankly I've never used these EQ settings myself, so that's just a guess.
> 
> 
> Are you just playing around with them, or do you have a real need to use these?
> 
> --Bob



Initially just playing around but now that I know I can't compare ARC correction to flat I have a problem with it. I really think they need to resolve that. Oh, btw I tried it again with EQ off and it still doesn't work. I also tried with HF boost at only +6 dB and it still doesn't work right. So, something is messed up there. I'll forward all the data to Nick so he can try to duplicate the problem there and see what's going on. These EQ functions definitely should not be doing what they are doing.


mk


----------



## grafcom




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16346138
> 
> 
> Are you calling them yourself or having the dealer do it? You made mention above about the dealer handling this with them, but I don't know if you've also tried yourself. In addition, they can be reached by email. Based on everyone else's experience here, it is really unusual for them to be unresponsive for no good reason (e.g., the person working the issue is out of the office).
> 
> 
> As I understand it, the problem you are having is obvious and easily reproducible failure as opposed to something subtle or intermittent, correct? So it should be trivially easy for them to hook up a D2v to the loaner Runco and see if it reacts differently than a D2.
> 
> 
> Let me ask another basic question: Do you know for sure that Anthem has reproduced the problem in their lab using the loaner Runco -- i.e., they know it is definitely not a problem in just your D2?
> 
> --Bob



Early on in this problem, both the dealer and myself were contacting both Runco and Anthem. (even on conference calls). Initially, we all approached this as a Runco matter. Initally, Anthem sent Runco a D2. Runco was easily able to reproduce the problem, but there wasn't anything Runco was able to do to make the Anthem recognize that it was in fact in HDCP mode. As I said earlier, the LCD window on the Runco clearly has the HDCP mode showing in it's display showing that it is recognizing the handshaking and content. Also, since all devices connected directy to the Runco perform just perfectly, there was nothing else they knew to do. That's when it was decided between Runco and Anthem that Anthem needed to analyze why it was not seeing the Runco's report back as to being in HDCP mode, and Runco agreed to send a unit to Anthem. Up to that point, communications were both phone calls and emails and everyone was quite responsive. After that point, it became a matter of shipping time and engineering time on Anthem's part. My Dealer has been doing the follow up calls to make sure the unit was received. He confirmed that it was received and was told by Anthem to expect an email with the firmware fix for us to apply within 2 weeks. That was well over 2 months ago and since then he claims that Anthem is not being responsive. Being that we were all on the conference calls earlier in the process and I've physically heard his interaction with Runco and Anthem, and that I see him frequently and have known him quite some time, I have no reason to even think that he's not done what he said. In fact, he feels so responsible for steering me in that direction, he is about as anxious to get this resolved as I am. I have just this weekend sent emails myself to Anthem again and have not yet had a reply, although I wouldn't expect to before next week.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16346428
> 
> 
> Initially just playing around but now that I know I can't compare ARC correction to flat I have a problem with it. I really think they need to resolve that. Oh, btw I tried it again with EQ off and it still doesn't work. I also tried with HF boost at only +6 dB and it still doesn't work right. So, something is messed up there. I'll forward all the data to Nick so he can try to duplicate the problem there and see what's going on. These EQ functions definitely should not be doing what they are doing.
> 
> 
> mk



Leave the HF/LF EQ at 0dB.


Leave the Room Resonance Filter OFF.


Leave the Center EQ OFF.


The last two are disabled when ARC is in use (Room EQ ON) but if you have them on they will come into effect when you turn Room EQ OFF.


Now, I suspect what you are seeing is that when you turn Room EQ OFF you are still getting the crossovers and speaker volume trims that ARC has Uploaded. The volume trims in particular may not be the best match for what you would use in a manual setup because the actual output of the speaker with ARC engaged is a combination of the volume trim and the effective boosts/cuts implemented by the room correction parameters.


I'm not exactly sure what you are measuring in your chart, but doing A/B with ARC engaged and turned off is more complicated than just turning Room EQ ON/OFF. All that shows you is the impact of the Room Correction processing, without taking into account that the best manual solution absent that processing might use different volume trims, different crossovers, and the other functions such as LFE Bypass and THX Ultra 2 subwoofer Boundary Gain Compensation.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16346479
> 
> 
> Leave the HF/LF EQ at 0dB.
> 
> 
> Leave the Room Resonance Filter OFF.
> 
> 
> Leave the Center EQ OFF.
> 
> 
> The last two are disabled when ARC is in use (Room EQ ON) but if you have them on they will come into effect when you turn Room EQ OFF.
> 
> 
> Now, I suspect what you are seeing is that when you turn Room EQ OFF you are still getting the crossovers and speaker volume trims that ARC has Uploaded. The volume trims in particular may not be the best match for what you would use in a manual setup because the actual output of the speaker with ARC engaged is a combination of the volume trim and the effective boosts/cuts implemented by the room correction parameters.
> 
> 
> I'm not exactly sure what you are measuring in your chart, but doing A/B with ARC engaged and turned off is more complicated than just turning Room EQ ON/OFF. All that shows you is the impact of the Room Correction processing, without taking into account that the best manual solution absent that processing might use different volume trims, different crossovers, and the other functions such as LFE Bypass and THX Ultra 2 subwoofer Boundary Gain Compensation.
> 
> --Bob



The attached here is just a simple loop measurement of the D2 transfer function with the room EQ on and off. The Center EQ is off and room resonance filter is off. Under source menu I have g. Audio In: AnlgDSP and K. Lf =0 and HF =0. m. Room EQ: On and off for the two curves. So what else could be on that's causing that bass boost in the non ARC corrected curve? That definitely should not be there, that curve should be a perfectly flat line. There is no change in volume toggling EQ on and off, you can see this from the curves. The portion above about 2 KHz shows that the two curves are exactly on top of each other. So, there are no volume differences or trim differences involved.


Anyway, this just might be a show stopper for me. If they can't resolve it I'll probably return ARC. So far it doesn't look like it can do anything I can't already do except it will be a lot more convenient if it proves as accurate. I am looking at another measurement system however that I can connect multiple calibrated microphones to at one time and do it all in one shot. That may be my ultimate solution especially if I can find or make a digital crossover EQ with arbitrary control over the transfer functions. Good microphones are expensive but for $50 you can get the Behringer mic and for about $5 more you can modify it to nearly match the performance of my $600 Earthworks M30. Then you can calibrate them to the M30 and for say $550 have ten matched calibrated microphones and do the room setup in one shot!


mk


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16346570
> 
> 
> The attached here is just a simple loop measurement of the D2 transfer function with the room EQ on and off. The Center EQ is off and room resonance filter is off. Under source menu I have g. Audio In: AnlgDSP and K. Lf =0 and HF =0. m. Room EQ: On and off for the two curves. So what else could be on that's causing that bass boost in the non ARC corrected curve? That definitely should not be there, that curve should be a perfectly flat line. There is no change in volume toggling EQ on and off, you can see this from the curves. The portion above about 2 KHz shows that the two curves are exactly on top of each other. So, there are no volume differences or trim differences involved.
> 
> 
> Anyway, this just might be a show stopper for me. If they can't resolve it I'll probably return ARC. So far it doesn't look like it can do anything I can't already do except it will be a lot more convenient if it proves as accurate. I am looking at another measurement system however that I can connect multiple calibrated microphones to at one time and do it all in one shot. That may be my ultimate solution especially if I can find or make a digital crossover EQ with arbitrary control over the transfer functions. Good microphones are expensive but for $50 you can get the Behringer mic and for about $5 more you can modify it to nearly match the performance of my $600 Earthworks M30. Then you can calibrate them to the M30 and for say $550 have ten matched calibrated microphones and do the room setup in one shot!
> 
> 
> 
> mk



How would you then connect all microphones? a multiplexer and use parametric eqs for each channel?


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/16346828
> 
> 
> How would you then connect all microphones? a multiplexer and use parametric eqs for each channel?



Each microphone would need it's own calibration curve just like the ARC microphone. The software then applies the correction file for each individual mic. For the most part, they would all be pretty similar anyway. You also need a multi input sound card to handle all the inputs. This system is completely independent of the D2 but would create a similar correction based on the spacial averaged measurements. The curves would then be applied external from the D2 in the active crossover EQ between the D2 and the amplifiers.


This is the measurement system... http://www.easerasystune.com/ I haven't studied exactly what it can do yet but I'm told it will be able to do all this. I'm going to look it over this week and possibly order it.


BTW, by changing the input from AnlgDSP to AnlgDir I can compare flat with the ARC correction. So we're good, we're all good







I'll keep ARC but I'll probably still get Systune too.


mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16347101
> 
> 
> BTW, by changing the input from AnlgDSP to AnlgDir I can compare flat with the ARC correction. So we're good, we're all good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll keep ARC but I'll probably still get Systune too.
> 
> 
> mk



Woah! Cute trick! I like that. That's worth a cookie! Of course it only works for an analog source such as your room measuring tool.


I'd still suggest you send Anthem tech support an email next week with the results you found turning Room EQ OFF and see if they have a good explanation.

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman

In going from a two-speaker (front right/front left) to a three-speaker arrangement (to include the center channel), how does the D1 handle the rear channels information? Are they combined with the front right/left speakers? (It's a slow process adding additional speakers.)


Thanks, in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman* /forum/post/16347883
> 
> 
> In going from a two-speaker (front right/front left) to a three-speaker arrangement (to include the center channel), how does the D1 handle the rear channels information? Are they combined with the front right/left speakers? (It's a slow process adding additional speakers.)
> 
> 
> Thanks, in advance.



See Section 7.4.2 of the D1 Manual: If you have neither Side Surrounds nor Rear Surrounds then LS and LR content goes to LF. RS and RR content goes to RF. This is true whether or not you have a Center speaker.


NOTE: If you use the older Dolby Pro-Logic surround mode things are handled a little differently.

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16347950
> 
> 
> See Section 7.4.2 of the D1 Manual: If you have neither Side Surrounds nor Rear Surrounds then LS and LR content goes to LF. RS and RR content goes to RF. This is true whether or not you have a Center speaker.
> 
> 
> NOTE: If you use the older Dolby Pro-Logic surround mode things are handled a little differently.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16347381
> 
> 
> Woah!
> 
> I'd still suggest you send Anthem tech support an email next week with the results you found turning Room EQ OFF and see if they have a good explanation.
> 
> --Bob



Already sent










mk


----------



## budeone

grafcom,


I am sorry to hear you are having problems with Anthem Tech Support.


I have had a few problems with my Adcom, but the tech support was unlike anything I have used before. When I talk or email them they are so fast and seem like they actually care.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16346570
> 
> 
> The attached here is just a simple loop measurement of the D2 transfer function with the room EQ on and off. The Center EQ is off and room resonance filter is off. Under source menu I have g. Audio In: AnlgDSP and K. Lf =0 and HF =0. m. Room EQ: On and off for the two curves. So what else could be on that's causing that bass boost in the non ARC corrected curve?



Which input channel(s) are you driving?

Which output channel was plotted?

Is the unit in pure stereo mode or any surround mode activated?

Is bass management turned on?


The shape of your off curve looks exactly the same as when a 5.1 signal is swept (all channels), and C, Ls, Rs = small while L/R = large. The bass being redirected from the small speakers to L/R would give that boost shape in the L/R channels.


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/16352061
> 
> 
> Which input channel(s) are you driving?
> 
> Which output channel was plotted?
> 
> Is the unit in pure stereo mode or any surround mode activated?
> 
> Is bass management turned on?
> 
> 
> The shape of your off curve looks exactly the same as when a 5.1 signal is swept (all channels), and C, Ls, Rs = small while L/R = large. The bass being redirected from the small speakers to L/R would give that boost shape in the L/R channels.



Driving the AUX analog input.

Measuring the main (Left) output.

Surround activated.

Bass management on.


I don't have surround speakers installed yet but who knows what the settings are for those, probably small. For a moment there I was convinced you must be right but thinking about it, there is nothing to redirect from the surrounds because I was driving only the AUX two channel input. I don't think there should be any simulated multi-channel stereo generating surround channels and then redirecting their low frequency to the mains. Maybe??? That's about the only thing I can think of. I'm out of town now but next weekend I'll try making sure it's just two channel by using the 2-ch input. With the current measurement path I can also try changing the surround speaker settings and see if it effects it.


I did get an e-mail from Nick suggesting I might have the bass/treble controls off neutral. My first measurement when initially setup however was with the menu controls zeroed and I got a perfectly flat line across full bandwidth so any issue with the bass or treble would have shown up there. I suggested he put one on the bench and just double check to make sure it's doing what it's suppose to. We'll see what result he gets.


thanks,

Monte


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16353370
> 
> 
> Driving the AUX analog input.
> 
> Measuring the main (Left) output.
> 
> Surround activated.
> 
> Bass management on.
> 
> 
> I don't have surround speakers installed yet but who knows what the settings are for those, probably small. For a moment there I was convinced you must be right but thinking about it, there is nothing to redirect from the surrounds because I was driving only the AUX two channel input. I don't think there should be any simulated multi-channel stereo generating surround channels and then redirecting their low frequency to the mains. Maybe??? That's about the only thing I can think of. I'm out of town now but next weekend I'll try making sure it's just two channel by using the 2-ch input. With the current measurement path I can also try changing the surround speaker settings and see if it effects it.
> 
> 
> I did get an e-mail from Nick suggesting I might have the bass/treble controls off neutral. My first measurement when initially setup however was with the menu controls zeroed and I got a perfectly flat line across full bandwidth so any issue with the bass or treble would have shown up there. I suggested he put one on the bench and just double check to make sure it's doing what it's suppose to. We'll see what result he gets.
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Monte



Select "Stereo" audio mode to be sure no surround content is being generated from the 2-channel input.


I suspect what's happening is that bass for the LF channel is being steered to the subwoofer, and that the volume trim ARC has applied for the subwoofer is deliberately set a bit high because ARC is implementing primarily cuts as part of the Room Correction solution for the sub.


When you turn off the Room Correction processing, the slightly high volume trim for the sub (as uploaded by ARC) is still in effect, but the cuts are no longer there. Thus the bass steered from LF comes out too hot.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16353826
> 
> 
> Select "Stereo" audio mode to be sure no surround content is being generated from the 2-channel input.
> 
> 
> I suspect what's happening is that bass for the LF channel is being steered to the subwoofer, and that the volume trim ARC has applied for the subwoofer is deliberately set a bit high because ARC is implementing primarily cuts as part of the Room Correction solution for the sub.
> 
> 
> When you turn off the Room Correction processing, the slightly high volume trim for the sub (as uploaded by ARC) is still in effect, but the cuts are no longer there. Thus the bass steered from LF comes out too hot.
> 
> --Bob



It almost has to be something like that going on. Next weekend is going to be another short trip home, in fact I will have only weekends home the next three weeks or so and then nothing because I'll be in the Philippines for three or four weeks. So, I don't want to let myself get too tangled up in this again next weekend. I got zero done on routing speaker wire for the surrounds this past weekend...which is what I had planned to get done before getting involved with ARC and discovered all this.


And in an unrelated question, I believe the balanced outputs have an additional 6 dB output but I believe there is no difference in the amplifier gain using the balanced inputs on the MCA or P2 series amplifiers, is that correct? The attenuators I fabricated to get ARC working are using the RCA inputs and are just resistor voltage dividers in a plastic box and these are picking up a slight hum. I'm about to place an order to Parts Express for some XLR pads to replace these attenuators and I don't want to choose the wrong attenuation because I didn't take something like this into consideration. My center channel is powered by a PVA5 which doesn't have XLR inputs so I wouldn't be able to solve such an error by simply also changing the center to XLR.


thanks,

Monte


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16353941
> 
> 
> And in an unrelated question, I believe the balanced outputs have an additional 6 dB output but I believe there is no difference in the amplifier gain using the balanced inputs on the MCA or P2 series amplifiers, is that correct? The attenuators I fabricated to get ARC working are using the RCA inputs and are just resistor voltage dividers in a plastic box and these are picking up a slight hum. I'm about to place an order to Parts Express for some XLR pads to replace these attenuators and I don't want to choose the wrong attenuation because I didn't take something like this into consideration. My center channel is powered by a PVA5 which doesn't have XLR inputs so I wouldn't be able to solve such an error by simply also changing the center to XLR.
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Monte



XLR output voltage from the D2v is twice that of RCA -- the standard 6dB difference for XLR. See Section 2.2 of the Manual. I don't know for sure what those particular amps are doing with XLR input, but I'd be surprised if the Anthem amps aren't designed to match conveniently with the Anthem processors. So I suspect there is either a built in difference between XLR and RCA input or a switch selectable option for the XLR (which is the way some other amps deal with this). Check the amp manual.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16346415
> 
> 
> There is one thing I would like to do but can't because something is wrong. Either I'm doing something stupid (which is usually the case) or something isn't right with the way this thing works. I would like to AB between ARC correction and no correction. Under the source menu m. Room EQ (on/off) I can turn it off but the problem is that it puts in that stupid room correction.
> 
> 
> I want to complare between ARC corrections and a flat response on the fly so I can be listening and just turn it on and off without putting in that bass boost. I don't want that bass boost!
> 
> 
> Anyway this time I think something is really wrong because it's already proven that the LF and HF EQ do not work properly. I'm sending that data to Nick so hopefully it can be resolved but right now I just want to get rid of that boost that I get when I turn ARC corrections off so I can compare it to flat.
> 
> 
> Bob, is it me being stupid again? Is there a way to compare flat to ARC EQ?
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Monte



I'm glad I'm not the only one that found this issue aswell..










Many months ago, I contacted anthem about this very issue. I stated that, when I turn on EQ, the bass is ok,but very thin compared to turning OFF the EQ.. When OFF, the bass is totally crazy..


Since I forgot (been a long time without ARC) what flat really sounded like, I figured I was getting the flat sound with OFF, and the extreme bass was normal, and that ARC was thin in bass..


Now it is staring to make more sence on what you found..


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16354326
> 
> 
> XLR output voltage from the D2v is twice that of RCA -- the standard 6dB difference for XLR. See Section 2.2 of the Manual. I don't know for sure what those particular amps are doing with XLR input, but I'd be surprised if the Anthem amps aren't designed to match conveniently with the Anthem processors. So I suspect there is either a built in difference between XLR and RCA input or a switch selectable option for the XLR (which is the way some other amps deal with this). Check the amp manual.
> 
> --Bob



The only thing I found under specifications was an input impedance difference but nothing about a gain difference. The output makes sense because it's putting a plus and minus version of the same signal on the two pins so the voltage is doubled hence a 6 dB increase.


The XLR pads from PE are pretty cheap so I just ordered some of all of them that way I know I'm covered.


mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16354360
> 
> 
> I'm glad I'm not the only one that found this issue aswell..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many months ago, I contacted anthem about this very issue. I stated that, when I turn on EQ, the bass is ok,but very thin compared to turning OFF the EQ.. When OFF, the bass is totally crazy..
> 
> 
> Since I forgot (been a long time without ARC) what flat really sounded like, I figured I was getting the flat sound with OFF, and the extreme bass was normal, and that ARC was thin in bass..
> 
> 
> Now it is staring to make more sence on what you found..



As I recall, your uncorrected bass was way too hot, which meant ARC had to apply some serious cuts to tame it. To keep from then having to apply more boost in the dips to compensate for the broader cuts it probably raised the speaker trim for the sub, which means even more cuts but less need to boost any dips.


The upshot was that ARC was doing a lot of correction to tame your bass, and when you turn off the Room Correction processing all of that stops happening. Then you are just left with your uncorrected bass as exacerbated by the somewhat higher speaker volume trim ARC Uploaded for the sub. So yes the uncorrected bass sounds louder, but the corrected bass is, uhm, "correct".


-----------------------------


Folks whose speakers need less correction will, of course, not notice such a dramatic difference when turning off the Room Correction processing.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16354863
> 
> 
> As I recall, your uncorrected bass was way too hot, which meant ARC had to apply some serious cuts to tame it. To keep from then having to apply more boost in the dips to compensate for the broader cuts it probably raised the speaker trim for the sub, which means even more cuts but less need to boost any dips.
> 
> 
> The upshot was that ARC was doing a lot of correction to tame your bass, and when you turn off the Room Correction processing all of that stops happening. Then you are just left with your uncorrected bass as exacerbated by the somewhat higher speaker volume trim ARC Uploaded for the sub. So yes the uncorrected bass sounds louder, but the corrected bass is, uhm, "correct".
> 
> 
> -----------------------------
> 
> 
> Folks whose speakers need less correction will, of course, not notice such a dramatic difference when turning off the Room Correction processing.
> 
> --Bob



Me starting to love the correct bass

















Really shows how much a room can mess with sound..


----------



## grafcom




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *grafcom* /forum/post/16346474
> 
> 
> Early on in this problem, both the dealer and myself were contacting both Runco and Anthem. (even on conference calls). Initially, we all approached this as a Runco matter. Initally, Anthem sent Runco a D2. Runco was easily able to reproduce the problem, but there wasn't anything Runco was able to do to make the Anthem recognize that it was in fact in HDCP mode. As I said earlier, the LCD window on the Runco clearly has the HDCP mode showing in it's display showing that it is recognizing the handshaking and content. Also, since all devices connected directy to the Runco perform just perfectly, there was nothing else they knew to do. That's when it was decided between Runco and Anthem that Anthem needed to analyze why it was not seeing the Runco's report back as to being in HDCP mode, and Runco agreed to send a unit to Anthem. Up to that point, communications were both phone calls and emails and everyone was quite responsive. After that point, it became a matter of shipping time and engineering time on Anthem's part. My Dealer has been doing the follow up calls to make sure the unit was received. He confirmed that it was received and was told by Anthem to expect an email with the firmware fix for us to apply within 2 weeks. That was well over 2 months ago and since then he claims that Anthem is not being responsive. Being that we were all on the conference calls earlier in the process and I've physically heard his interaction with Runco and Anthem, and that I see him frequently and have known him quite some time, I have no reason to even think that he's not done what he said. In fact, he feels so responsible for steering me in that direction, he is about as anxious to get this resolved as I am. I have just this weekend sent emails myself to Anthem again and have not yet had a reply, although I wouldn't expect to before next week.



Update... I did receive replies today from Anthem Tech support. I was told that even though we had not heard from them, they were still working on the problem, just did not have a fix yet. It seems that with the D2 it is not a simple issue. However, I also learned that with the unit Runco sent, they were able to verify that the new D2v did not experience the same problem. So, now, the issue for me in getting fixed is to get into the D2v and Anthem not having to chase this any more with the D2. I don't mind upgrading at all for a known working product. As I had said earlier on, I was quite pleased with how the problem was handled in the early days. It was only the lastest tow months of seemingly no activity that was disconcerting. So, I guess I have renewed hope that Anthem will come through on it. Waiting to hear back.


----------



## benleeys

Bob,


Glad to see you still doing good work here and that your advice and opinions are much valued and sought after, for which we are most grateful.


There is a thought that has been on my mind for sometime, but have not seen any specific mention anywhere that settles it. It is that, with a video processor as good as the D2 which preferably accepts a 480i signal from an SDVD player for processing and upscaling, would it be sufficient that any cheap player that can pass such a signal will do, even when such a player fails most of the tests thrown at it? With the $ saved, I can then give full attention to ensure that the external processor be performing at its best.


With a collection of almost 1,000 pcs of SDVD, your advice will very likely determine if I should let go of my Denon 5910 and make do with my much cheaper Pioneer 79 and use the $ from it to perhaps acquire the new Oppo 83.


Thanks.

Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/16355563
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Glad to see you still doing good work here and that your advice and opinions are much valued and sought after, for which we are most grateful.
> 
> 
> There is a thought that has been on my mind for sometime, but have not seen any specific mention anywhere that settles it. It is that, with a video processor as good as the D2 which preferably accepts a 480i signal from an SDVD player for processing and upscaling, would it be sufficient that any cheap player that can pass such a signal will do, even when such a player fails most of the tests thrown at it? With the $ saved, I can then give full attention to ensure that the external processor be performing at its best.
> 
> 
> With a collection of almost 1,000 pcs of SDVD, your advice will very likely determine if I should let go of my Denon 5910 and make do with my much cheaper Pioneer 79 and use the $ from it to perhaps acquire the new Oppo 83.
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Ben



The ONLY reason I see to prefer the Denon 5910 is that its Noise Reduction settings are more effective than what's available in the D2 and in other players. That was always the main, recognized weakness of the VXP chip version used in the D2.


The version of the VXP used in the D2v eliminates even that reason.


Now Noise Reduction is not something you would use as a matter of course. Any form of Noise Reduction is going to blur the image -- which you can counter to some degree by also adding small amounts of Detail Enhancement. But it is still better to leave both off when watching high quality content -- which includes better SD-DVD transfers.


Whether this is of value to you depends on how many poor quality transfers you have in your collection. Generally, I leave Noise Reduction off even when watching bad transfers, as a reminder not to buy bad transfers.


-------------------------------------------


That said, the Noise Reduction in the new Oppo BDP-83 also appears to be quite good (use it at the smaller levels). I haven't done a direct comparison against the 5910, nor seen such a comparison from others, but I think if you are looking at the Oppo as an alternative to the 5910 -- i.e., for SD-DVD as well as for Blu-Ray -- then I think you will be pleased. Which of course means you can also sell the Pioneer 79.


Now the Oppo is still not quite released for general, unrestricted sale, and they are still working out some of the final bugs (some of which affect certain SD-DVD discs). But when it is offered in the next few weeks, you might just as well get one and audition it yourself. They have a 30 day money-back policy for purchases direct from them (less shipping costs). Then you can decide for yourself whether you can bear to part with the 5910 and/or 79avi.


--------------------------------------------


As it happens, your 79avi, even though cheaper than the 5910, is a VERY good SD-DVD player. Don't fall into the trap of believing you can get the same quality from any old cheap player, such as the $30 versions sold next to remaindered Christmas decorations in your local drug store.


First of all, most of the cheap players won't support HDMI 480i output (480p will be the lowest they go over HDMI). Second, there are important things a player can screw up in doing the basic decoding of the data coming off the disc -- i.e., even before de-interlacing or scaling are considered. And finally, the performance and convenience features -- not to mention reliability -- found in the cheapest players is likely to be pretty pathetic.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Thanks, Bob, for your most enlightening reply.


If I understand you correctly, any cheap SDVD player just won't do if I value picture quality, as the player, use this way (just for providing a 480i signal off the disc), is not simply acting as a transport for the D2 (as a CD player is when used with an external DAC ie. it reads the digital audio signal off the CD and passes it, without altering its character, to the DAC for decoding). Guess I'll have to rethink the situation again, then. Oh, by the way, I have always stayed off the Noise Reduction feature, wherever it's found.


Regarding the Pioneer 79, from the test reports, it appears that its predecessor, the 59, actually performs better! But I am proposing to keep it for use as a CD transport.


Whatever I decide, I am thinking seriously of the Oppo 83.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I have a 59avi myself, and it has long been my "reference" SD-DVD player.


I expect I'll finally replace it with the Oppo BDP-83 for SD-DVD and CD. The Oppo will also replace my PS3 for Blu-Ray. That said, I'll repeat again that the Oppo still has some bugs that need to be worked out.


By the way, the scaling in the Oppo is good enough that I'm currently using it's 1080p output for SD-DVD playback as that lets me use some convenience features in the player that are not available using Source Direct. Of course I've always got the option to go back to 480i output and let the D2v do all the work if I spot an issue.


-------------------------


When reading the Secrets of Home Theater tests, the stuff they call the "core" functions are the things that have to happen in the player even with 480i output.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

You know, Bob, I was actually hoping your advice would concur with my idea of a cheap SDVD player.







No, don't get me wrong, I'm glad you cleared up my misconception. But sigh, looks like I'd better hang on to the 5910, even though it's refusing to play most CDs!


I do not expect the Oppo 83 to be in this part of the world soon. In any case, I am willing to wait a while for the bugs to be sorted out before I touch it.


Thanks again.

Ben


----------



## dschamis

I have been fooling around with some 96/24 tracks from HDTracks.com and I have a basic but important question:


For listening to the music I use Songbird on the Mac, which I believe to be a fine choice. I output the audio via a digital optical cable from the Mac directly to the D2. I adjust the output in OSX's "Audio Midi Setup' utility to 96/24. When I look at the D2 it shows that the audio input is coming in at 96/24.


So that all sounds fine - my question is what is the story on these expensive 'USB Links' I see? For example:

http://www.belcantodesign.com/news_usb_link.html 


Does this do anything more than my Mac is already doing? It seems unnecessary to me, but maybe I'm missing something???


Thanks,


David


----------



## MisterScott

Hello all. I have been lurking here for while. Bought a D2v about a month ago as the centerpiece to my new system. Pioneer LCOS (JVC unit), 3 Bryston 4Bsst's, Paradigm Studio Reference speakers, Stewart screen, Pionner LD/DVD combo, Denon six disc changer, Pioneer 51 Blueray, direct tv HDDVR, Bryston CD player.


Well, I have been having serious issues with the Anthem. I updated the firmware of the Blueray player as well as the Anthem and I am still getting voice and picture drop out. The Anthem does not like switching iputs but it especailly does not like fast fowarding or chaning channels on the HDDVR (especially from HD to non HD and back) as well as skipping chapters on the Blueray. Regular DVD play back on the Blueray is horrific (not sure if it is the anthem or the Blue, suspect Anthem). I am adding a dedicated Denon DVD player through component. We are going to try and toubleshoot the issues tonight with some people in the know, but my impression (and I have not fooled around with the Anthem like others here have) is that it is not quite ready for prime time. They have some HDMI and processing issues to work out. My system is not complicated and I just want consistent video and audio before I start tweeking. Overall, I am very disappointed in the product out of the box. Had I known it was going to be such an investment in time and effort, I would have purchase another item. I like to tweak stuff, but not to have to make it run at some base peformance level.


----------



## MisterScott

BTW, if there are any "superusers" in the DFW area that can be coerced with a bottle of good scotch to help me tweak the Anthem let me know.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/16358304
> 
> 
> Does this do anything more than my Mac is already doing? It seems unnecessary to me, but maybe I'm missing something???



I think you're correct. It looks superfluous in your case.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/16358304
> 
> 
> I have been fooling around with some 96/24 tracks from HDTracks.com and I have a basic but important question:
> 
> 
> For listening to the music I use Songbird on the Mac, which I believe to be a fine choice. I output the audio via a digital optical cable from the Mac directly to the D2. I adjust the output in OSX's "Audio Midi Setup' utility to 96/24. When I look at the D2 it shows that the audio input is coming in at 96/24.
> 
> 
> So that all sounds fine - my question is what is the story on these expensive 'USB Links' I see? For example:
> 
> http://www.belcantodesign.com/news_usb_link.html
> 
> 
> Does this do anything more than my Mac is already doing? It seems unnecessary to me, but maybe I'm missing something???
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David



I agree with Roger. I see no point in spending the money on this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MisterScott* /forum/post/16358520
> 
> 
> Hello all. I have been lurking here for while. Bought a D2v about a month ago as the centerpiece to my new system. Pioneer LCOS (JVC unit), 3 Bryston 4Bsst's, Paradigm Studio Reference speakers, Stewart screen, Pionner LD/DVD combo, Denon six disc changer, Pioneer 51 Blueray, direct tv HDDVR, Bryston CD player.
> 
> 
> Well, I have been having serious issues with the Anthem. I updated the firmware of the Blueray player as well as the Anthem and I am still getting voice and picture drop out. The Anthem does not like switching iputs but it especailly does not like fast fowarding or chaning channels on the HDDVR (especially from HD to non HD and back) as well as skipping chapters on the Blueray. Regular DVD play back on the Blueray is horrific (not sure if it is the anthem or the Blue, suspect Anthem). I am adding a dedicated Denon DVD player through component. We are going to try and toubleshoot the issues tonight with some people in the know, but my impression (and I have not fooled around with the Anthem like others here have) is that it is not quite ready for prime time. They have some HDMI and processing issues to work out. My system is not complicated and I just want consistent video and audio before I start tweeking. Overall, I am very disappointed in the product out of the box. Had I known it was going to be such an investment in time and effort, I would have purchase another item. I like to tweak stuff, but not to have to make it run at some base peformance level.



The firmware you should be running in the D2v is V2.04. Even though you updated your firmware, if you are still using a version older than that you should definitely update again to V2.04.


I'll assume you are on V2.04 in what follows, but if not, updating to V2.04 really needs to be your first step as it has important bug fixes. When I see a situation like yours, multiple failures from multiple HDMI devices, my first thought is cable problems. The HDMI handshake goes from the source, through the D2v, to the display -- every time. So the HDMI cables on BOTH sides of the D2v could be suspect.


Keep in mind that if you are using 1080p, particularly if you are using the Deep Color feature of HDMI V1.3, the bandwidth of the signal on the cables is much higher. That means you need to get cables that have been designed and tested for that use. If you find cables labeled as HDMI V1.3 "for 1080p", or "high speed", or "category 2" (all of which mean the same thing) then those cables are supposed to have been made to the newest, strictest testing specs.


Also know that cable testing only applies to the cable as built -- at its manufactured length. So if you daisy chain cables or use wall plates, then that can be the source of problems.


Once you feel you have eliminated both firmware and cables as the cause, you should give Anthem tech support a call with the model numbers of your display and source devices. They may be able to tell you that the devices you have are known to work with the D2v (which would suggest you have a hardware problem -- either in your cables or in your D2v video board), or that they are known to have problems. That can help you focus on where the issue is.


I find it particularly interesting that you are having problems with the Pioneer 51 since that's a newer device and should certainly not trigger loss of signal when doing a Chapter Forward. The quality problem you are having when using it for SD-DVD playback could be simple setup error.


In the first post of this thread you will find a collection of links to other posts with tutorial content. In particular, look for the one labeled "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs". Review the information in there to see if it suggests anything that needs changing in your setup. Standard DVD viewing quality is pretty sensitive to setting things up correctly. There's less margin for error.


But clearly the first thing to tackle is your HDMI problems. So confirm the firmware version, rethink your HDMI cables, and talk to Anthem tech support about the particular devices that are giving you grief.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/16358226
> 
> 
> But sigh, looks like I'd better hang on to the 5910, even though it's refusing to play most CDs!



I have a 5900 that started to have problems recognizing discs. I took the cover off, removed the cover from the transport section, carefully cleaned the laser and all moving parts of the transport. It has not had a problem for over 16 months now.


(Make sure you unplug it before doing this!










Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*AppleTV over HDMI*


I got word from Nick at Anthem that they've had something of a breakthrough regarding HDMI support for AppleTV.


Apparently Apple's AppleTV product implements an unusual (but legal) optional method of handling the EDID information which is distinct from what they do on their computers. The trick was to find a way to support that which would not cause other HDMI devices (in particular cable TV boxes) to fail. As Nick said, "One of many such details arising from the 1000 page HDMI EDID spec...."


They now believe they've figured that out, and if the fix survives further testing it will be included in the next firmware for both the old and new processors. For the D2 and AVM 50, this would be the V1.34 bug fix release. For the AVM 50v and D2v this will likely be the upcoming major release that includes Dolby Volume support.

--Bob


----------



## MisterScott

Bob,


Thanks for the quick reply. I will check the cables but all are recent purchases and high quality. I had an installer do the behind the wall work. There is a long (40-50 feet, near the limit) HDMI run from the Anthem to the Pioneer projector. How else do you get a 1080P signal to a projector, right? I am sure that the issue has been beat down ad nauseum on the HDCP handshake and 1080p through component. It is a tremendous shame that this stuff isn't plug and play. Wind up costing the consumer and manufacturers a lot of time and wasted money.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MisterScott* /forum/post/16359518
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. I will check the cables but all are recent purchases and high quality. I had an installer do the behind the wall work. There is a long (40-50 feet, near the limit) HDMI run from the Anthem to the Pioneer projector. How else do you get a 1080P signal to a projector, right? I am sure that the issue has been beat down ad nauseum on the HDCP handshake and 1080p through component. It is a tremendous shame that this stuff isn't plug and play. Wind up costing the consumer and manufacturers a lot of time and wasted money.



Tackling this stuff, particularly with longer runs, is a real nuisance -- particularly since there are still plenty of source and display devices out there with their own problems that just complicate the process.


One thing to try is to set all sources to no more than 1080i and then set the D2v to send 1080i to the projector. If that works but 1080p doesn't work, then marginal cabling becomes a real possibility. If you are using wall plates at either end of the behind the wall run, be aware that MANY wall plates have had problems passing 1080p signals cleanly. Use the "through the wall" plates instead -- which are basically just ways to pretty up a hole in the wall that you pass one long run of cable through from the D2v all the way to the projector.


By the way, 480p (not 480i) is the "simplest" signal for HDMI to carry. So if you still have problems using 1080i, try 480p to see if that makes a difference. This is not a workaround of course -- just a way to try to focus in on the true source of the problem.


Another thing you can do to test is temporarily move the D2v under the projector with one source device and see if things work cleanly when using a 6 foot or so HDMI cable to the projector. No need to hook up amp wires and such -- just test the video portion.


If you find it really is a problem with the in the wall cable there's nothing for it but to replace it. There ARE solutions for longer HDMI runs. One solution involves a repeater. Another solution involves fiber optic cable with a translator box at each end. The fiber solution allows pretty much unlimited length (at a cost). Whatever you get, be sure to try it just laying things out in the open FIRST before you fish it through the wall.

--Bob


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16359482
> 
> *AppleTV over HDMI*
> 
> 
> I got word from Nick at Anthem that they've had something of a breakthrough regarding HDMI support for AppleTV.
> 
> 
> Apparently Apple's AppleTV product implements an unusual (but legal) optional method of handling the EDID information which is distinct from what they do on their computers. The trick was to find a way to support that which would not cause other HDMI devices (in particular cable TV boxes) to fail. As Nick said, "One of many such details arising from the 1000 page HDMI EDID spec...."
> 
> 
> They now believe they've figured that out, and if the fix survives further testing it will be included in the next firmware for both the old and new processors. For the D2 and AVM 50, this would be the V1.34 bug fix release. For the AVM 50v and D2v this will likely be the upcoming major release that includes Dolby Volume support.
> 
> --Bob



I just got my new AVM50v yesterday (HOORAY!) but am very disappointed to find it doesn't currently support AppleTV, which comprises about 75% of our viewing.


Any idea how long until Anthem releases the update that will correct this?


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16361307
> 
> 
> I just got my new AVM50v yesterday (HOORAY!) but am very disappointed to find it doesn't currently support AppleTV, which comprises about 75% of our viewing.
> 
> 
> Any idea how long until Anthem releases the update that will correct this?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



I don't have a date for the next firmware. In the interim, you should be able to hook up the AppleTV via Component, yes?

--Bob


----------



## flavorguy

Bob -


I have currently a Denon 3800 BDCI Blu-ray which about 14 months ago was considered a fairly nice unit.


I am interested however in purchasing a Oppo BDP-83 primarily as a SACD unit.


With your experience with the D2v / AVM50v and the Oppo, have you had an opportunity to do any SACD evaluations? How would you integrate the Oppo (or another SACD player) to a AVM50v?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16361307
> 
> 
> I just got my new AVM50v yesterday (HOORAY!) but am very disappointed to find it doesn't currently support AppleTV, which comprises about 75% of our viewing.
> 
> 
> Any idea how long until Anthem releases the update that will correct this?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



I use my AppleTV like Bob says - COMPONENT.


The AppleTV native content is 720p - which is what I

have AppleTV set to output and then use the D2 to scale

to 1080p. It works great and HDMI is ONLY needed for

1080p and Lossless Audio - NEITHER of which the AppleTV

delivers.


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16361307
> 
> 
> I just got my new AVM50v yesterday (HOORAY!)



Congrats! This is the second or third week in a row that I was told my D2v was coming. So I was getting a bit discouraged, but the dealer just called and said it was en route from Anthem. woohoo!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/16362920
> 
> 
> Bob -
> 
> 
> I have currently a Denon 3800 BDCI Blu-ray which about 14 months ago was considered a fairly nice unit.
> 
> 
> I am interested however in purchasing a Oppo BDP-83 primarily as a SACD unit.
> 
> 
> With your experience with the D2v / AVM50v and the Oppo, have you had an opportunity to do any SACD evaluations? How would you integrate the Oppo (or another SACD player) to a AVM50v?



I have not tested the BDP-83 for SACD, but there are other Anthem owners in their Early Adopter Program who have reported it works just fine with the Anthem units -- with perhaps some glitches on a few discs (the typical, final bugs). You hook it up via HDMI and set the BDP-83 for PCM output of SACD discs. The Oppo decodes the DSD on the disc to 88KHz multi-channel LPCM for the Anthem.


Since the Oppo is new, I recommend you buy direct from them so that you can take advantage of their 30 day money back policy in case you find something you don't like.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16364159
> 
> 
> Congrats! This is the second or third week in a row that I was told my D2v was coming. So I was getting a bit discouraged, but the dealer just called and said it was en route from Anthem. woohoo!



More Cool Kids!


It's a good thing we built that extra wing onto the club house!

--Bob


----------



## neff2k

Add another to the list! Store just called and its there, just have to go pick it up!


----------



## obie_fl

I've played numerous SACDs on the BDP-83 using the method described by Bob (HDMI/PCM) through my D2 without issue. DVD-As on the other hand have been a bit more problematic but the last two FW updates have corrected a good number of those issues as well. I think a lot of the issues with SACD and HDCD are with those trying to do DSD or HDCD decoding in the receiver ala Denon and Marantz.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/16364597
> 
> 
> Add another to the list! Store just called and its there, just have to go pick it up!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is the second or third week in a row that I was told my D2v was coming. So I was getting a bit discouraged, but the dealer just called and said it was en route from Anthem. woohoo!



Hey that's great. When did you guys order?


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16364950
> 
> 
> Hey that's great. When did you guys order?



Dealer just called and it has arrived. yay!


I ordered it the first week of Feb, but I think the dealer held off ordering from Anthem until mid-March because I requested it for April 1st... they couldn't have foreseen the parts issue, so I can't say I blame them for having waited to process the order.


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16361389
> 
> 
> I don't have a date for the next firmware. In the interim, you should be able to hook up the AppleTV via Component, yes?
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I hooked it up using component video and optical audio. Set it to 720p and it works fine. Just thought it was weird HDMI didn't work with my new unit.


All is well now!


Here's another question:


My display is a Pioneer 5070HD, which has 1365 x 768 pixels. Closest resolution it will accept is 1280 x 720 (50), so I set it to that, and picture is very good, though somewhat softer than I'm used to (though I recalibrated using "movie" mode this time, compared to "user" previously, as one thread recommended).


In the days before the AVM50v, everyone recommended setting all incoming sources to 1080p24, which the Pioneer accepts, and for reasons I completely don't understand this always seemed to give the best picture!


Apart from placebo effect, can anyone explain why 1080p24 might look better on a 720p display. Is there any good reason to buck the official advice and set the Anthem to output 1080p24?


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16365988
> 
> 
> Yes, I hooked it up using component video and optical audio. Set it to 720p and it works fine. Just thought it was weird HDMI didn't work with my new unit.
> 
> 
> All is well now!
> 
> 
> Here's another question:
> 
> 
> My display is a Pioneer 5070HD, which has 1365 x 768 pixels. Closest resolution it will accept is 1280 x 720 (50), so I set it to that, and picture is very good, though somewhat softer than I'm used to (though I recalibrated using "movie" mode this time, compared to "user" previously, as one thread recommended).
> 
> 
> In the days before the AVM50v, everyone recommended setting all incoming sources to 1080p24, which the Pioneer accepts, and for reasons I completely don't understand this always seemed to give the best picture!
> 
> 
> Apart from placebo effect, can anyone explain why 1080p24 might look better on a 720p display. Is there any good reason to buck the official advice and set the Anthem to output 1080p24?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Sure. The makers of 720p and 768p panels know that they will most commonly be compared in stores using 1080i or 1080p content as opposed to 720p content. So if they have to make any tradeoffs in the design they will tend to do it in favor of making 1080i or 1080p input look better even though that has to be scaled down to the native resolution of the panel. I don't know that Pioneer had to make any such compromises, but look for things like overscan present at 720p but not present at 1080p input.


1080p/24 to the panel should ONLY be used when you are playing film based Blu-Ray content. Do not try to convert other content to 1080p/24 for output to the display -- you will get video that stutters. If the panel accepts 1080p/60 then that's a good choice to try (presuming you can't get the panel to accept its true, native resolution which is almost always the best choice).


Odds are this pioneer is simply converting 1080p/24 input to 768p/60 for display. If so, you'll get no advantage in "judder" reduction using 1080p/24 even from Blu-Ray movies.


But I suspect any difference you are seeing now in using 720p to the panel is simply a matter of not having your video calibration fully tuned in yet, or that you are still too used to your old video setup.

--Bob


----------



## PArmola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16364898
> 
> 
> I've played numerous SACDs on the BDP-83 using the method described by Bob (HDMI/PCM) through my D2 without issue. DVD-As on the other hand have been a bit more problematic but the last two FW updates have corrected a good number of those issues as well. I think a lot of the issues with SACD and HDCD are with those trying to do DSD or HDCD decoding in the receiver ala Denon and Marantz.



How did you have your D2 setup for SACD. I'm still having issues with detached sound. When I set the Oppo for stereo, it sounds great. When I set the Oppo for SACD multi it sounds detached or distant. Moreover, my front speakers will not output sound except in stereo mode when using the Oppo in multi. Oppo is set for pcm and multi by default.


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16366150
> 
> 
> 1080p/24 to the panel should ONLY be used when you are playing film based Blu-Ray content. Do not try to convert other content to 1080p/24 for output to the display -- you will get video that stutters. If the panel accepts 1080p/60 then that's a good choice to try (presuming you can't get the panel to accept its true, native resolution which is almost always the best choice).--Bob



Bob,


You are fast!


I called Pioneer tech support and they confirmed that the native resolution is 1365x768/60. Is that an option on the Anthem? If so, I will try that when I get home tonight. If not, he thought that sending the Pioneer slightly more information than native (i.e. 1080) would give a better picture than slightly less information (i.e. 720). Does this sound right?











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16366150
> 
> 
> But I suspect any difference you are seeing now in using 720p to the panel is simply a matter of not having your video calibration fully tuned in yet, or that you are still too used to your old video setup.--Bob



I have been calibrating my own displays for over 10 years now and think I did this one carefully. Probably could use some fine tuning, but it is still exceedingly pleasing, and may just be "different" from what I'm used to.










One weird artifact my daughter noticed is the studder you mentioned. She asked me why the people on TV are moving like robots now. I think this was with the output set to 1280 x 720 but will have to look again.


There is a little bit of a learning curve here, but it's still kind of fun!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16366455
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> You are fast!
> 
> 
> I called Pioneer tech support and they confirmed that the native resolution is 1365x768/60. Is that an option on the Anthem? If so, I will try that when I get home tonight. If not, he thought that sending the Pioneer slightly more information than native (i.e. 1080) would give a better picture than slightly less information (i.e. 720). Does this sound right?



Don't confuse the "native" resolution -- which is the physical matrix of pixels -- with the list of input resolutions the panel is willing to accept. There are quite a lot of displays out there that won't accept their native resolution as a valid input resolution.


On the other hand, if yours does, then that's almost certainly the best one to use.


The Anthem has built in video output definitions for 1360x768p and 1366x768p. Try those. There are additional pre-defined definitions available in Live Video Settings Editor (in Utilities in the ARC install kit). You can select one of those and upload it to the Anthem where it then becomes your Custom resolution selectable in Setup > Video Output. You can also use Live Video Settings Editor to define a COMPLETELY custom set of video timings. Basically if the display accepts it, you can define it in LVSE. [BUT NOTE: This is arcane in the extreme -- be prepared to do some learning.] However it is rare that anyone has to do that these days. There were some Panasonic 768p panels a couple years back that needed custom timings, but I haven't heard of anything recently.


My guess is, your Pioneer does *NOT* accept its native resolution as a valid input format.


-----------------------------------------


Purely from an information content point of view, it is better to send all of the resolution to the display and then have that scaled down by the display. But that assumes (1) you aren't also upscaling SD content to get to that point, and (2) the down-scaling in the display is good enough.


This becomes particularly tricky when sending 1080i to the display since then you are dependent BOTH on the display's de-interlacing of 1080i and its down-scaling.


If the display will accept 1080p/60, then that's a good resolution to try. If it will only accept 1080p/24 then you can use that when playing film-based Blu-Ray movies but you must *NOT* use that for other content or you will get stuttering. Blu-Ray movies aside, if the display will only accept 1080i/60, you are probably much better off *NOT* using that and sending 720p/60 instead -- again assuming the display won't actually accept 768p/60 from the Anthem. The reason, again, is to avoid de-interlacing in the display -- which the display must do before it can down-scale 1080i/60 input to its native 768p matrix.


Now some displays have their own problems with 720p input -- overscan that you can't eliminate being one of the most common. So play around with the different choices available to you to see which works best -- prioritizing things according to what I just described.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PArmola* /forum/post/16366348
> 
> 
> How did you have your D2 setup for SACD. I'm still having issues with detached sound. When I set the Oppo for stereo, it sounds great. When I set the Oppo for SACD multi it sounds detached or distant. Moreover, my front speakers will not output sound except in stereo mode when using the Oppo in multi. Oppo is set for pcm and multi by default.



I don't have anything special set on the D2 side. I use the same setting on the D2 for CD, SDVD, BD, HDCD, DVD-A and SACD, they just work. I am using Audio:HDMI and ARC is enabled. On the Oppo I use source direct and HDMI set to LPCM. Something is definitely amiss in your set up. Do you get 7.1 out of the analogs? I haven't bothered to even hook mine up but it would at least prove the Oppo is reading the Multi channel layer correctly.


And yes make sure SACD is PCM and not DSD as Bob says below.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*ARC with *BAD* speakers/amps?*


Since things are a little slow right now while waiting for the latest deliveries and the next batch of firmware, my mind wandered a bit and I started wondering just how good ARC might be when faced with bad speakers and amps.


It occurs to me that someone out there, perhaps waiting delivery on their GOOD speakers and amps, might have hooked up a really awful rig and turned ARC loose on it just to see what happened. Anybody care to 'fess up to having done that? How did it turn out?










--Bob


----------



## Doozer428

ok, so i'm unpacking my new d2v and i've already noticed some... strangeness. While the outside box was new, and factory sealed/stapled, some of the accessory boxes look re-taped. And in the box containing the remote control and antennae were two remotes: one new and one old with fingerprints and batteries installed. also, there were 3 new sets of batteries shoved into the bag through a hole torn in the plastic. i guess i'm not too concerned yet, but this sorta smells like my new d2v is actually someone else's refurb.


At least the serial numbers on the box/arc/unit seem to match so far.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16367256
> 
> 
> Since things are a little slow right now



Oh no not Bob Pariseau Inc too







Hopefully they won't have to resort to layoffs. Have you checked your severance package lately Bob?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PArmola* /forum/post/16366348
> 
> 
> How did you have your D2 setup for SACD. I'm still having issues with detached sound. When I set the Oppo for stereo, it sounds great. When I set the Oppo for SACD multi it sounds detached or distant. Moreover, my front speakers will not output sound except in stereo mode when using the Oppo in multi. Oppo is set for pcm and multi by default.



There is a bug in the current Oppo firmware that may produce results like this if you have the SACD playback setting set to DSD. (Setup > Audio Format Setup > SACD Output)


You need to set that to PCM *AS WELL AS* setting the audio output format to HDMI LPCM. This applies when using any AVR or processor (like the Anthems) that doesn't accept HDMI DSD.


Also, make sure the video output resolution from the Oppo is 720p or higher when playing SACD or DVD-A discs. If you are using Source Direct, it should switch that for you automatically.


-------------------------------


When you are playing multi-channel SACD content, press Select repeated on the Anthem and report what it shows for audio input style and which channels are active for audio input.


Are you getting this problem on one SACD or on all of them? Keep in mind that the Oppo is new and you may have discovered a bug. Give Oppo tech support a call if the above suggestions don't lead to a simple fix.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Anthem D2's come with two remotes...finger prints and installed batteries I'm not so sure about.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16367280
> 
> 
> ok, so i'm unpacking my new d2v and i've already noticed some... strangeness. While the outside box was new, and factory sealed/stapled, some of the accessory boxes look re-taped. And in the box containing the remote control and antennae were two remotes: one new and one old with fingerprints and batteries installed. also, there were 3 new sets of batteries shoved into the bag through a hole torn in the plastic. i guess i'm not too concerned yet, but this sorta smells like my new d2v is actually someone else's refurb.
> 
> 
> At least the serial numbers on the box/arc/unit seem to match so far.



E-mail Anthem tech support and see what they say.


Since the box was factory sealed you know the dealer didn't open it. I can't think of any valid reason why you'd get an opened accessories box. My guess is that the wrong box was grabbed by mistake as part of the packout, and tech support can pass the word to the shipping people to be more careful.


In any event, you are completely covered under the warranty.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16367282
> 
> 
> Oh no not Bob Pariseau Inc too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully they won't have to resort to layoffs. Have you checked your severance package lately Bob?



They have recently reinforced our leg shackles. So I don't think we are going anywhere.

--Bob


----------



## Doozer428

ya, the arc box and accessory box were re-taped with scotch tape. the one remote is used. and the unit itself did not have the plastic film on the front window (my avm 20 came with this, i assume newer units do too).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16367304
> 
> 
> Anthems come with two remotes...finger prints and installed batteries I'm not so sure about.



The D2 and D2v come with 2 remotes. The AVM 50 and AVM 50v come with only 1 remote.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

March is a little late for CES reviews to be hitting the press, which is probably why I missed this one when it finally came out. But check out the "Best Of Show" award at the end of this CES round-up article:

http://www.soundstageav.com/onhifi.html 











--Bob


----------



## [email protected]

Hello Bob, I have a D2v and am trying to get my Harmony one programed to support it. I read your posting, How do we tell Harmony your account? What is your logon ID for your Harmony account?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/16368363
> 
> 
> Hello Bob, I have a D2v and am trying to get my Harmony one programed to support it. I read your posting, How do we tell Harmony your account? What is your logon ID for your Harmony account?



Tell them I'm using a Harmony 880. They should be able to find my configuration under pariseau or bpariseau.


Oh, and welcome to AVS and to the Cool Kids thread!

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16367931
> 
> 
> March is a little late for CES reviews to be hitting the press, which is probably why I missed this one when it finally came out. But check out the "Best Of Show" award at the end of this CES round-up article:
> 
> http://www.soundstageav.com/onhifi.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



If he was blown away with that setup, I would imagine they would had to rush him to the ER if Anthem brought the P5 and P2 with the Sigs S8. I will be kind and not add the Sub 25.


----------



## PArmola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16367290
> 
> 
> There is a bug in the current Oppo firmware that may produce results like this if you have the SACD playback setting set to DSD. (Setup > Audio Format Setup > SACD Output)
> 
> 
> You need to set that to PCM *AS WELL AS* setting the audio output format to HDMI LPCM. This applies when using any AVR or processor (like the Anthems) that doesn't accept HDMI DSD.
> 
> 
> Also, make sure the video output resolution from the Oppo is 720p or higher when playing SACD or DVD-A discs. If you are using Source Direct, it should switch that for you automatically.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------
> 
> 
> When you are playing multi-channel SACD content, press Select repeated on the Anthem and report what it shows for audio input style and which channels are active for audio input.
> 
> 
> Are you getting this problem on one SACD or on all of them? Keep in mind that the Oppo is new and you may have discovered a bug. Give Oppo tech support a call if the above suggestions don't lead to a simple fix.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Its setup as you indicated with LPC and LPCM via HDMI. not DSD. The D2 shows the following:


LF C RF LFE


LR RR



Not sure what else to change. I did reflash the D2, but it still sounds the same. This is with all multi chanel SACD's as well as DVDA


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Give Oppo tech support a call. This is probably something simple, but I don't have any immediate suggestions for you.


By the way, did you mean LR/RR or LS/RS?

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I double checked several of my Multi-channel SACDs tonight and they all played fine. I even switched the Oppo to DSD and they still played fine. Apparently the Oppo is smart enough to know the D2 can't do DSD and sends PCM even if you tell it otherwise. I'm beginning to wonder if you have a flakey HDMI port. Have you tried connecting the Oppo to another HDMI port on the D2?


----------



## neff2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16364950
> 
> 
> Hey that's great. When did you guys order?



Placed my order the first week of March.




On another note, I really can't believe the difference in audio between the AVM 50 and the D2v. I haven't even been able to use the ARC yet and the sounds is just amazing. I never would have imagined this much of a difference. Happy as can be.


----------



## obie_fl

PArmola does this old post of mine sound similar? If so I ended up sending my D2 back for a replacement to fix the problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/16368777
> 
> 
> Placed my order the first week of March.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another note, I really can't believe the difference in audio between the AVM 50 and the D2v. I haven't even been able to use the ARC yet and the sounds is just amazing. I never would have imagined this much of a difference. Happy as can be.



Uh, oh! Another Anthem customer who is going to get blissed out after using ARC due to happiness overload!










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16368806
> 
> 
> PArmola does this old post of mine sound similar? If so I ended up sending my D2 back for a replacement to fix the problem.



Tom, did you ever get any details as to the nature of the hardware failure?


It does sound like you may be on to something re PArmola's problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16368754
> 
> 
> I double checked several of my Multi-channel SACDs tonight and they all played fine. I even switched the Oppo to DSD and they still played fine. Apparently the Oppo is smart enough to know the D2 can't do DSD and sends PCM even if you tell it otherwise. I'm beginning to wonder if you have a flakey HDMI port. Have you tried connecting the Oppo to another HDMI port on the D2?



The DSD setting issue would only surface if you started switching between the 2-channel and multi-channel tracks on the disc. Since PArmola was doing that, this is what made me think of that bug. The Oppo is, indeed, smart enough to not try to send HDMI DSD to the Anthems even if you select SACD DSD output.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Thanx for the extra details on the DSD issue Bob. I never did hear anything back on what failed on my original unit.. hard to believe that was over 21/2 years ago.


----------



## Doozer428

Ok, so a few hours later I'm up and running. ARC results look (and sound) pretty good for a first try. I was a bit concerned by how different the test tones sounded through the Signature ADP1's, but the measurements don't show any major issues (my first experience with dipoles). Nor did ARC give me any phase warnings or other errors despite the surrounds being mounted quite high on a rear wall. Subwoofer sounds as good (or better? we'll see after more listening) than it ever did using the Revel's own internal 3 band eq, or my Velodyne SMS-1. I'm a bit concerned with localization due to the high crossover (115hz iirc)... but I'll reserve judgement until further auditioning.


Setting up the Harmony was a pain, but I think I have things working the way I want now. I always praised Harmony in the past, but even though it acknowledges learning keys from the Anthem's remote, it doesn't seem to remember the learned keys... never had that issue with my AVM20.


Only other weird thing I've noticed is that if the D2v is turned off, and my Scientific Atlanta 8300 pvr is also turned off, the PVR reboots itself repeatedly. It doesn't like whatever it's seeing (or not seeing) over HDMI. This never occurred when the PVR was connected directly to my Panasonic plasma. For now, I will leave the D2v on to avoid having my recordings interrupted by the constant reboots. I may end up going back to component/coax digital if this continues to be a nuisance. Grrrr @ silly HDMI issues.


More to come! and yay for having music in my house again!


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16367280
> 
> 
> ok, so i'm unpacking my new d2v and i've already noticed some... strangeness. While the outside box was new, and factory sealed/stapled, some of the accessory boxes look re-taped. And in the box containing the remote control and antennae were two remotes: one new and one old with fingerprints and batteries installed. also, there were 3 new sets of batteries shoved into the bag through a hole torn in the plastic. i guess i'm not too concerned yet, but this sorta smells like my new d2v is actually someone else's refurb.
> 
> 
> At least the serial numbers on the box/arc/unit seem to match so far.



My accessories box was also retaped. I thought maybe they got the kit and had to insert the CD with the proper software?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16369484
> 
> 
> Only other weird thing I've noticed is that if the D2v is turned off, and my Scientific Atlanta 8300 pvr is also turned off, the PVR reboots itself repeatedly. It doesn't like whatever it's seeing (or not seeing) over HDMI. This never occurred when the PVR was connected directly to my Panasonic plasma. For now, I will leave the D2v on to avoid having my recordings interrupted by the constant reboots. I may end up going back to component/coax digital if this continues to be a nuisance. Grrrr @ silly HDMI issues.



I have the same problem - I switched to component since the DVR is only capable of 1080i. Anthem blamed the problem on the DVR - Now I think it is an issue with the Anthem since I am not the only one and I doubt we have the same programming...


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16369484
> 
> 
> Ok, so a few hours later I'm up and running. ARC results look (and sound) pretty good for a first try. I was a bit concerned by how different the test tones sounded through the Signature ADP1's, but the measurements don't show any major issues (my first experience with dipoles). Nor did ARC give me any phase warnings or other errors despite the surrounds being mounted quite high on a rear wall. Subwoofer sounds as good (or better? we'll see after more listening) than it ever did using the Revel's own internal 3 band eq, or my Velodyne SMS-1. I'm a bit concerned with localization due to the high crossover (115hz iirc)... but I'll reserve judgement until further auditioning.
> 
> 
> Setting up the Harmony was a pain, but I think I have things working the way I want now. I always praised Harmony in the past, but even though it acknowledges learning keys from the Anthem's remote, it doesn't seem to remember the learned keys... never had that issue with my AVM20.
> 
> 
> Only other weird thing I've noticed is that if the D2v is turned off, and my Scientific Atlanta 8300 pvr is also turned off, the PVR reboots itself repeatedly. It doesn't like whatever it's seeing (or not seeing) over HDMI. This never occurred when the PVR was connected directly to my Panasonic plasma. For now, I will leave the D2v on to avoid having my recordings interrupted by the constant reboots. I may end up going back to component/coax digital if this continues to be a nuisance. Grrrr @ silly HDMI issues.
> 
> 
> More to come! and yay for having music in my house again!



I believe that issue with the Scientific Atlanta box has been reported before, and I believe it was associate with a particular firmware level on that box. Send Anthem tech support an email with the details to see if they know of a workaround. But I suspect the workaround is the one you already know -- give up on HDMI from that source.


We've got a lot of Harmony One users here, so with any luck, one of them will chime in, but there really shouldn't be any problem simply learning remote codes from the D2v remote. The problem is when you want to configure the Harmony to do the extra stuff such as being able to press and hold the "7" button to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. I don't know of any way to do that except to call the Harmony people and have them do it for you.


Your ARC charts look OK for a first pass. You could get additional correction at the higher frequencies by raising the Max EQ Frequency target in the Targets window. By default ARC stops correcting at 5KHz.


Now your bass suggests to me that you've got a pretty serious case of room cancellation in the range from 50 to 80Hz. You can see it most clearly on the subwoofer chart but I think it is affecting all your speakers. It's hard to tell how much of the bass weakness is characteristic of your speakers and how much it is being impacted by this room suck, but the upshot is that ARC is rolling off your speakers (the crossover) a little on the high side. If you have any bass configuration adjustments available in the speakers, particularly on your surrounds, it would be good to extend their bass and re-Measure.


Your sub is doing quite well (except for that one dip) and so it makes sense that ARC is putting more reliance on it.


You may need some bass traps in your room to help with that room cancellation.


In any event what you have right now should sound pretty good -- should be a noticeable improvement. Particularly in the integration of the center channel in the low mid-range and bass. Raise Max EQ Frequency to extend the correction up higher. That's an easy change (no need to re-Measure). And then start thinking about what's going on with bass.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16369551
> 
> 
> My accessories box was also retaped. I thought maybe they got the kit and had to insert the CD with the proper software?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same problem - I switched to component since the DVR is only capable of 1080i. Anthem blamed the problem on the DVR - Now I think it is an issue with the Anthem since I am not the only one and I doubt we have the same programming...
> 
> 
> Mike



Inserting the ARC CD with the new software makes sense as far as re-taping that accessories box, but not for his having a used remote in there as well.


Which brand and model of DVR are you using? Some of them really are pretty bad for HDMI -- particularly when hook up through a processor.

--Bob


----------



## Doozer428

I'm just using a lowly Harmony 670, but I'm sure I'll get it working to my satisfaction at some point. With my AVM20 I could get the THX button to work (for instance) by manually forcing it to learn... but it failed to work with the D2v. Not too concerned at this point though.


I have no idea what's going on with the bass suckout. New house, new room, new speakers... could be anything, including the cathedral ceilings I imagine. Once the speakers break in, I'll play around with some speaker placement and see if I can get a better bass curve. The whole main floor is pretty open, so I'm not sure I have many options for room treatment, but maybe I can get the sub closer to the corner and try to load the room more evenly. If I recall the Soundstage test results correctly, the Signature S1's roll off on their own pretty fast under 100hz. When I retry ARC, I'll play with some new, higher, high frequency cut-offs. I ran the calculations just for kicks at 12K and it seems to smooth out the 5-12k region (go figure. heh).


I was too eager to get ARC and everything set up since I've been in the house for a month now waiting for this preamp, so honestly, I have never listened to these speakers in this room without ARC. Why delay the inevitable?










I'm happy with the S1's so far. Much more dynamic than the Totem Arros I had running in my condo due to space limitations. The S1's are much closer in character to my old Revel M20's that I wish I had never sold.


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16369551
> 
> 
> My accessories box was also retaped.
> 
> Mike



How was the unit itself packed? Mine was loosely covered in a plastic bag (not taped, not sealed) and then stuck in the protective foam. There were no protective plastic labels on the front screen... which seemed unusual to me for a new product, but maybe they just come that way. Although, there was an HDMI warning label hastily stuck over the HDMI ports.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16369656
> 
> 
> How was the unit itself packed? Mine was loosely covered in a plastic bag (not taped, not sealed) and then stuck in the protective foam. There were no protective plastic labels on the front screen... which seemed unusual to me for a new product, but maybe they just come that way. Although, there was an HDMI warning label hastily stuck over the HDMI ports.



I believe it is normal for the plastic dust wrap to just be folded (not taped). I can't recall whether my D2v had a plastic scratch protector over the front panel. The HDMI warning label is placed loosely over the HDMI inputs -- the sticky part attaching to the top of the chassis. It is certainly NOT normal for a remote to be shipped with batteries already installed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16369644
> 
> 
> I was too eager to get ARC and everything set up since I've been in the house for a month now waiting for this preamp, so honestly, I have never listened to these speakers in this room without ARC. Why delay the inevitable?



Double-check how those speakers are wired. Some speakers have separate input jacks for bass that are usually cross connected with buss bars at the speaker. Also check whether there's a bass port you are supposed to open or the like.

--Bob


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16369722
> 
> 
> Double-check how those speakers are wired. Some speakers have separate input jacks for bass that are usually cross connected with buss bars at the speaker. Also check whether there's a bass port you are supposed to open or the like.
> 
> --Bob



Fronts I connected myself. They are bi-amped (since I had a couple extra amp channels doing nothing) so the jumpers are removed. They are small stand mounted speakers, sealed design. The rears were mounted by the dealer and I can't really get at them where they are, but my measurements are consistent with Sound and Vision Mag's measurements. These small-ish speakers just don't do much below 100hz. The Centre is also a sealed design, and has the jumpers in place.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For your directionality concern, check the sub crossover that ARC Uploaded into the Setup menu. In the new ARC software that can be different from the "cutoff" shown in ARC's Targets window.


The crossover controls bass steering (LFE is handled specially), the cutoff controls how high up ARC handles room correction for content going through the sub. In the original ARC these were forced to be the same, but now ARC has extra flexibility in the solution.

--Bob


----------



## RayZn

Hello everyone.


I am now the proud papa of BOTH a D2 and a D2v. Ordered my D2v on April 02 and received it on April 06. My dealer actually made a mistake and pushed me to the top of the 6 unit back order list which is why I got the D2v so quickly (I was on the highway headed to the store when someone who ordered before me called the store but by then it was too late - lucky me!).


You may be wondering why I did not wait to have my original D2 upgraded but ya see I have this tall stack of components and it was such a chore to remove the D2 from near the bottom of the stack that I wanted to be able to simply "plop in" a replacement D2v once the stack was disassembled. I do have a spare Integra DTR 9.1 but since it has no HDMI, I could not face the nightmare of figuring out how to re-hook up things with old fashioned component, coax and optical cables. Besides once you get used to a Statement, well hell who wants to give up that! So yes, call me spoiled - I brought the D2v and replaced my D2 which I am not selling but keeping around as a spare. For those of you wondering - You can indeed use the backup utility to backup the settings on the D2 and then load those same settings into a new D2v. Wow, did that save time! However, because of serial numbers etc, you do need to install/run ARC again but that was no hassle at all.


I must say that I do feel sorry for people out in this world who buy a D2v and think it will be perfect out of the box... We forum members know better and know the advantages of firmware upgrades.


Owning a D2v in it's current form is similar to what I experienced with the D2. Work with Nick to get the bugs out and the rewards will come!


I want to share with you what I wrote to Anthem regarding my problems just in case any of you find yourself having the same problems. I wrote tech support once but never heard back from Nick so I sent them another email with updated information:


> For analog sources there is the usual set-audio-level option which shows a single bar graph that pulses up/down in response to an audio signal. On the D2v it works for stereo sources but the bar graph does not move at all when I use the 5.1 channel input which I use for Analog SACD. This is a very minor issue.


Issues that I talk about in length:


On April 17 I received my new Statement D2v. I already own the D2 and understand that eventually I could have had it upgraded; however I could not bear to be without an Anthem processor in my system for any length of time so I made the plunge and simply bought a new D2v { 141082: Firm 2.04: Arc 2.1 }. I plan to keep my D2 as a spare (will use it at the summer place 2+ weeks a year).


My D2 is still under Warranty & even though the backlight for the Display panel is not as bright as it once was (we talked about this before in a previous email exchange regarding some dim character spots) it is probably not so bad as to go through the hassle of shipping it out to be inspected/repaired even though its really only a spare now. I adore my D2 and I am sure I will eventually be head over heals for my new D2v. I must say that I am surprised at how much cooler the D2v runs than my original D2 (I swear the D2 could fry an egg).Way to go in your newer design!


The downside is that having the D2v is similar to what it was like when the D2 was new. There are a few bugs in the new system that are a little annoying but like the D2, your constant attention to firmware updates will surely get the kinks out eventually. Right now the D2v is an improvement over my D2 but I am sure it will get significantly better when all of the bugs get squashed (besides, right now I only have 4 HDMI sources and my Monitor is an older Sony XBR1 which pre-dates 1080P, Deep Color, etc. I will say this though, even with this older hardware the image that the D2v produces appears much more vibrant than it did via the D2). The future looks very bright indeed. Oh yea - I can't wait for Dolby Volume - their site demo is fascinating and I look forward to your implementation of this new Dolby Standard. And of course who could not forget to mention your one and only ARC software which slays the competition!


My problems:


DTS-MA 7.1 does not work properly via my (top of the line) Sony BDP-S5000ES Blu-Ray player. The Sony BDP-S5000ES has only two audio settings for HDMI: Two-channel or AUTO. This means that I cannot force 7.1 LPCM over HDMI because when hooked up to the D2v the Sony knows that the D2v accepts Bitstream and therefore (via the Sony's auto-setting) it will only bitstream to the D2v (in contrast - when using my D2, the Sony 5000ES would flawlessly send 5.1 LPCM over HDMI).


Auto-mode bitstream from the 5000ES to the D2v works fine for regular 5.1 Dolby Digital whether the 5000ES is set for either it's mix or direct mode. Advanced 5.1 codecs via bitstream mode (5.1 TrueHD, and 5.1 DTS-HD) are both working great as well.


However, things fall apart with DTS-MA 7.1 (same problem happens on two 7.1 Blu-Rays that I tried - Showtime's Weeds and the Golden Compass): The D2v properly indicates that it is receiving a 7.1 DTS-MA bitstream but the sound that is produced on the D2v is filled with constant dropouts (sound mutes and un-mutes every 20 seconds or so). This will happen whether I have the mute setting on Min,Med or Max. My only work around for this problem is to use my Playstation PS3 instead since it does the advanced codec processing internally (which is something that I know that you prefer) and then sends the audio over HDMI 7.1 LPCM which the D2v accepts perfectly. I never had a problem with the 5000ES hookup to my original D2, though as you know the D2 only processed a 5.1 signal. So there ya go - I can't get DTS-MA 7.1 to work correctly on the D2v.


Now to describe a more annoying problem with my new D2v: I am using a 6.1 system and set the D2v for a single rear speaker in direct mode. However, there is a problem with disappearing channels and the scenario is dependent on whether the HDMI source originates as either a Dolby 2.0 or 5.1 signal. I have a Tivo HD XL THX certified unit (the one with the terabyte hard drive) and I use it to record over the air HD channels exclusively. I think the problem happens with other HDMI-Audio sources too, but it is a very obvious problem when playing back recordings and/or Live TV via my Tivo. This is an HDMI issue only since it will not happen when I use regular digital optical/coax signals on this or other sources (like my 8300HD Cable Box). Unfortunately, I already use all of my D2v optical inputs so I am unable to hook up the TiVo in that way which is why I am relying on HDMI for both audio and video on this unit. I have the Tivo hooked up to the D2v in the exact same way that I had it hooked up to the D2 (using the same high quality HDMI cable). The Tivo HD XL worked flawlessly with the D2, However, with the D2v I get extra audio channels that keep disappearing.


Here's the deal: I have the D2v setup for 2.0 + PLIIx Movie mode for when the broadcast is Dolby 2.0 based and 5.1 + Dolby Digital EX mode for the 5.1 broadcasts. When I first start playing a title (or watch Live TV) the D2v's OUTPUT is exactly the 6.1 sound I want:


L C R SUB

LS CR RS


The above is what will show up on the display & also corresponds to what I am hearing (ie there are no problems and it sounds wonderful). Ah, but then something happens. It's commercial time and I fast forward or skip over the commercials which means the HDMI audio portion of the signal goes quiet for a moment. I get back to the show and start playback again and suddenly audio channels disappear (both in the display and in what I hear). Basically the lock on the 2.0 + PLIIx Movie and/or the 5.1 + Dolby Digital EX processing is lost and I lose the extra channels that I was getting previously (this does not happen every time I fast forward or rewind but something but I would say happens around 90% of the time).


The lost channels output looks and sounds like this:


{For 5.1 original source the CR center rear channel disappears}


L C R SUB

LS RS


{For 2.0 surround original source the C, LS, CR and RS channels all disappear}


L R SUB


This means that the Dolby Digital EX processing and/or PLIIx Movie processing simply stopped working even though the display panel still states that such processing is still active. All of the EXTRA channels for the 6.1 experience are now gone, having gone dead silent (only the original source channels are still produced when the extra channels drop out). This "problem" will happen on any of the extract-extra-channel codecs from the Anthem D2v whenever the source is part of an HDMI stream.


There is something I can manually do to get the extra channels back: All I need to do is to press the MODE button on the remote and cycle out of the current mode by moving back one step (leave my default Dolbly Digital EX or PLIIx processing mode) and then move forward one step which returns me to the original mode. This cycling of modes always bring back all of the extracted channels. That's fine and dandy but there are a lot of commercials that I need to skip over so it gets annoying cycling in and out of modes all the time to get my extra audio channels back. And hey, let's not blame the commercials since any kind of rewinding or fast-forwarding often creates the same loss of channels.


Does this sound like it is an 1.3c HDMI issue? My D2 with the old HDMI standard exhibited no such problems. Maybe it's the newness of 1.3c that has kinks that need to be worked out. Ah yes, the fun of the original D2 firmware upgrades starts all over again! I feel sorry for the customers out there that may not be aware that there are kinks in the armor that in time will be sorted out through your companys hard work, skill & dedication.


Thanks for listening ladies & gentlemen! (any ladies in here? give a shout-out)

Ray


----------



## RayZn

Oops - typo: I order my D2v on April 02 and received it on April 17 ... not on April 06 which would have been impossible!


Cheers....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16367256
> 
> *ARC with *BAD* speakers/amps?*
> 
> 
> Since things are a little slow right now while waiting for the latest deliveries and the next batch of firmware, my mind wandered a bit and I started wondering just how good ARC might be when faced with bad speakers and amps.
> 
> 
> It occurs to me that someone out there, perhaps waiting delivery on their GOOD speakers and amps, might have hooked up a really awful rig and turned ARC loose on it just to see what happened. Anybody care to 'fess up to having done that? How did it turn out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



As you know *BOB* - ARC did find a DEFECTIVE speaker in my Theater.

The right front speaker had a slight defect after may years which I

did not sense until ARC showed me and tried to correct the SMALL

sound defect at a NARROW frequency.


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16369796
> 
> 
> For your directionality concern, check the sub crossover that ARC Uploaded into the Setup menu. In the new ARC software that can be different from the "cutoff" shown in ARC's Targets window.
> 
> 
> The crossover controls bass steering (LFE is handled specially), the cutoff controls how high up ARC handles room correction for content going through the sub. In the original ARC these were forced to be the same, but now ARC has extra flexibility in the solution.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for all your help Bob. I'm sure I'll have more questions when I get home from work and get to play some more!


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16369580
> 
> 
> Inserting the ARC CD with the new software makes sense as far as re-taping that accessories box, but not for his having a used remote in there as well.
> 
> 
> Which brand and model of DVR are you using? Some of them really are pretty bad for HDMI -- particularly when hook up through a processor.
> 
> --Bob



I would agree on the remote, but I would assume that they outsource the entire ARC kit, but not the CD and have to match the D2v with the microphone, program the CD accordingly and add it to the box.


My DVR is a Scientific Atlanta 8300HDC.


My worse problem lately with my D2v is that I have only been able to spend time with it for a short period on one evening during the last two weeks - work can sure get in the way!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16370559
> 
> 
> My DVR is a Scientific Atlanta 8300HDC.



I run my DVRs on Component and optical.


DVRs and HDMI even when there are no problems - only

make channel surfing a PAIN in the ROYAL Behind.


And Since TV is not really High-Def - who needs HDMI for TV


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16370422
> 
> 
> As you know *BOB* - ARC did find a DEFECTIVE speaker in my Theater.
> 
> The right front speaker had a slight defect after may years which I
> 
> did not sense until ARC showed me and tried to correct the SMALL
> 
> sound defect at a NARROW frequency.



That's a pretty good example. Of course I'm not so much talking about broken speakers as simply poor quality speakers -- the type of audio equipment sold in stores near tourist destinations with brand names like Somy and Tanasonic. Just wondering whether ARC can make even THOSE sound good.










--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

after a week of listening to my family room setup(avm50v)

I have noticed an incredible difference in video and audio.


Now as for my basement HT(avm50) which I had Anthem install Arc on. Just finished my HT build about three weeks ago. I was excepting a dramatic change in audio and video due to what the avm50v did to my family room. But I was dissapointed









There is a large difference in the two units...

I guess I have to out and purchase another avm50v










I will post my arc results to see if I'm missing something.

Manny


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16371234
> 
> 
> That's a pretty good example. Of course I'm not so much talking about broken speakers as simply poor quality speakers -- the type of audio equipment sold in stores near tourist destinations with brand names like Somy and Tanasonic. Just wondering whether ARC can make even THOSE sound good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Well Bob, remember my Bose ceiling speakers, that I now need to replace







Need to find ceiling speakers that will match my Revels


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RayZn* /forum/post/16370111
> 
> 
> Oops - typo: I order my D2v on April 02 and received it on April 17 ... not on April 06 which would have been impossible!
> 
> 
> Cheers....



RayZn,

Your problem with audio dropouts when bitstreaming 7.1 DTS-HD MA to the D2v is most likely a firmware problem in your Sony player. And it may be disc specific. I base this on my experience Beta testing the new Oppo player. Various cases of audio dropout have all, in the end, turned out to be due to problems in the unfinished firmware in the player.


I don't know about "Weeds" but "The Golden Compass" is a release that uses the unusual "alternate speaker presentation" where the rear speakers in the mix are actually swung around closer to the sides as if it was recorded with two pair of side speakers. This encoding has given various players fits both in their own decoding and in how to present the bitstream to the receiver when doing bitstream output.


Check to see if there is a firmware update for your player. Your D2v, of course, should have the V2.04 firmware.


You could still have a problem in the D2v that might be specific, say to your 6.1 speaker setup. But I can bitstream "The Golden Compass" 7.1 DTS-HD MA just fine to my D2v from the Oppo.


It is also possible that you have a dirty or defective disc which the Sony player is having trouble reading even though the PS3 recovers and reads it.


Keep working the problem with Anthem, but do check to see if there is a firmware update for your player. And check the disc surface for any signs of smudges, cracks, or separation of surface layers.


---------------------------------------------------


Your problem with loss of output channels when feeding 2.0 content into PLIIx Movie mode is a known issue -- one I reported back a while. The workaround (cycling to a different mode and back) you have found is the best I've found as well. I've not heard that Anthem has a fix for this yet, but I presume they are working on it for the next D2v firmware.


Your problem with loss of the Center Rear speaker output from 5.1 content is probably related, but it is new. I've not seen that one reported before here.


For both of these, if you have an easy way to reproduce the problem that would be good info to get to Anthem so they can focus in on the fix.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16371368
> 
> 
> Well Bob, remember my Bose ceiling speakers, that I now need to replace
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to find ceiling speakers that will match my Revels



Good point! I guess ARC *DOES* have its limits.









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16371293
> 
> 
> after a week of listening to my family room setup(avm50v)
> 
> I have noticed an incredible difference in video and audio.
> 
> 
> Now as for my basement HT(avm50) which I had Anthem install Arc on. Just finished my HT build about three weeks ago. I was excepting a dramatic change in audio and video due to what the avm50v did to my family room. But I was dissapointed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a large difference in the two units...
> 
> I guess I have to out and purchase another avm50v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will post my arc results to see if I'm missing something.
> 
> Manny



Do you think your AVM 50 might have a hardware problem that crept up on you (as opposed to a total failure)? Can you describe or quantify the difference you are hearing?

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16371428
> 
> 
> Good point! I guess ARC *DOES* have its limits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Much improved...very close to a miracle









But they must go


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16371234
> 
> 
> simply poor quality speakers
> 
> 
> Just wondering whether ARC can make even THOSE sound good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



As an Electrical Engineer - we always say -

*"Garbage In Equals Garbage Out"
*

Even in the case of poor quality speakers - I'm sure ARC will do its

best to make them SOUND better and help correct for their limitations.


So ARC should make it sound like nice sounding Garbage










But the BIGGER question is WHY WHY WHY would any Anthem

owner have poor quality speakers with a World Class Pre-Pro?


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16371452
> 
> 
> Do you think your AVM 50 might have a hardware problem that crept up on you (as opposed to a total failure)? Can you describe or quantify the difference you are hearing?
> 
> --Bob



I received AVM50 from Anthem due to issues I had trying to download updates. So I took the opportunity to have arc installed. So I hope there is no hardware problem since it was unpacked and install to HT.


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16371514
> 
> 
> As an Electrical Engineer - we always say -
> 
> *"Garbage In Equals Garbage Out"
> *
> 
> Even in the case of poor quality speakers - I'm sure ARC will do its
> 
> best to make them SOUND better and help correct for their limitations.
> 
> 
> So ARC should make it sound like nice sounding Garbage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the BIGGER question is WHY WHY WHY would any Anthem
> 
> owner have poor quality speakers with a World Class Pre-Pro?



absolutely RIGHT!!!

I ask myself WHY I ever had them installed. Now when my wife sees me on the ladder cutting drywall...

I'll be kickin myself in the -s-..


by the way I was thinking of Paradigm's adp surrounds. any thoughts?


----------



## zuesmaximus

with the AVM50 I didn't hear much of a difference in sound after I ran arc compared to AVM50v. The V made my Revels come alive. the bass from sunfire was low and tight.

With the AVM50 sounded flat ... it didn't give me goosebumps like the V... I thought with avm50 the bass from JL Fathom f113 would move me in my deciated HT but the bass in my family room(avm50v) just sounds clean, tight, low.


It feels like I'm missing something/step when I ran Arc and uploaded setting


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16371625
> 
> 
> absolutely RIGHT!!!
> 
> I ask myself WHY I ever had them installed. Now when my wife sees me on the ladder cutting drywall...
> 
> I'll be kickin myself in the -s-..
> 
> 
> by the way I was thinking of Paradigm's adp surrounds. any thoughts?



My Theater is 7.1. Each of the 8 channels uses a different brand speaker.


I don't usually buy a speaker on Specs alone. I let my ears do the driving










I go into a store selling speakers and listen and BUY what I like. I usually

bring TWO test CDs with me. (1) Organ Music to test the Low Frequency

response and (2) Pure Piano CD - to test for Hi-Freq response and distortion.


The Piano CD is amazing. I have tested SUPER hi-end [more than $10K each]

Speakers and showed the Salesman the Distortion the Speakers had.


Piano music itself has distortion from the strings in the Piano. Some

speakers will react good to the distortion and some will make it worse.

It is the BEST challenge music I can use.


I have some really good - probably the BEST in their Day - in the wall

speakers for my REAR channel only. I just looked to see if they have

a Logo on them. No Logo and They are at least 8 years old and I can't

remember what happened yesterday - let alone what speakers I bought

8 years ago.

*UPDATE*


I found the *Speaker Brand*


I don't know how they stack up in today's world - but I like them.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16371718
> 
> 
> with the AVM50 I didn't hear much of a difference in sound after I ran arc compared to AVM50v. The V made my Revels come alive. the bass from sunfire was low and tight.
> 
> With the AVM50 sounded flat ... it didn't give me goosebumps like the V... I thought with avm50 the bass from JL Fathom f113 would move me in my deciated HT but the bass in my family room(avm50v) just sounds clean, tight, low.
> 
> 
> It feels like I'm missing something/step when I ran Arc and uploaded setting



Make sure you have turned on Room EQ in Setup > Source Setup for each source.


Make sure you haven't accidentally overwritten the settings ARC Uploaded by doing a Reload Saved User/Installer Settings after the Upload. If you are not sure, you can just re-open your ARC results file in Advanced mode and do a new Upload (no need to re-Measure). Then Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the Uploaded values and avoid future problems.


Make sure you used the ARC mic that came with the ARC kit for your AVM 50. If you use the ARC mic from one unit with another unit you will get invalid results as the individual mic calibration files are keyed to the serial number of the Anthem processor. The ARC application will check to be sure you are using an ARC mic. But it can't check to be sure you are using the RIGHT ARC mic.


If none of that leads to an obvious answer, then post the ARC charts for the AVM 50 and lets have a look.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16370422
> 
> 
> As you know *BOB* - ARC did find a DEFECTIVE speaker in my Theater.
> 
> The right front speaker had a slight defect after may years which I
> 
> did not sense until ARC showed me and tried to correct the SMALL
> 
> sound defect at a NARROW frequency.



Too much base could be bad for our hearing device.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's hard to focus on the fine details of frequency response when your whole room is bouncing....









--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/16372193
> 
> 
> Too much base could be bad for our hearing device.



I have too much base and I love it


----------



## zuesmaximus

when I ran arc for the AVM50(HT) I followed the same steps as the AVM50v... I'm going to rerun arc again tonight, going to zero all settings before testing...


dr.hankz thanks for the info...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16372461
> 
> 
> when I ran arc for the AVM50(HT) I followed the same steps as the AVM50v... I'm going to rerun arc again tonight, going to zero all settings before testing...
> 
> 
> dr.hankz thanks for the info...



Don't forget to check the things I suggested you check (e.g., Room EQ = ON). You may not NEED to re-run the ARC setup.

--Bob


----------



## singhrajivk

Hi guys !


I tried connecting my subwoofer's (Velodyne DD-18) composite video output to the D2 to display it through my projector. While doing this I learned that D2 can not scale and output composite video to HDMI. The D2 manual says that black-and-white composite video can be connected to the Y terminal of a component input. I tried this but it did not work. May be bacause the velodyne output is blue and white (although it has two colors, its not exactly black-and-white). My solution is to now use S-video output on the velodyne, but I am waiting for delivery of a long enough S-video cable which I have ordered.


My question is, why have the composite video functionality on D2 when it can not be scaled ? And why is there such a a restriction ?


Thanks,

Rajiv.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *singhrajivk* /forum/post/16372585
> 
> 
> Hi guys !
> 
> 
> I tried connecting my subwoofer's (Velodyne DD-18) composite video output to the D2 to display it through my projector. While doing this I learned that D2 can not scale and output composite video to HDMI. The D2 manual says that black-and-white composite video can be connected to the Y terminal of a component input. I tried this but it did not work. May be bacause the velodyne output is blue and white (although it has two colors, its not exactly black-and-white). My solution is to now use S-video output on the velodyne, but I am waiting for delivery of a long enough S-video cable which I have ordered.
> 
> 
> My question is, why have the composite video functionality on D2 when it can not be scaled ? And why is there such a a restriction ?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Rajiv.



I presume having the composite inputs (used only for video pass-through to the composite output) is a carry-over from the prior, D1 product which was just a video source switcher (no video processing or scaling). Adding hardware to separate and digitize Composite video input to everything else on the new video board was probably considered an expense most people would not use.


There are inexpensive adapters you can put on the end of a composite feed to plug into an S-video input.


--------------------------------------


Unfortunately, I have more bad news for you. Unless Velodyne has changed something recently in their video output, the D2 will not be able to lock into the S-video feed from the Velodyne either. That's because Velodyne is only putting out every other field of the 480i video. The video digitizer in the D2 will not work with that. This has been a problem from the beginning between the D2 and the Velodyne products and at this point I don't think it is likely to get tackled by either company.


This means that with the D2 you will still need to use video pass-through for that S-video feed from the Velodyne. I.e., run an S-video cable from the S-video output of the D2 to your display and switch to that input on the display when using the user interface of the Velodyne. Or alternatively, run the S-video direct from the Velodyne to that input of your display.


One of the surprises of the D2v was that the digitizer in the new unit *IS* able to lock into the S-video feed from the Velodyne products -- which means you can process and scale that S-video input for HDMI output.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

on the HT setup I ran arc in advanced mode played with the max eq, watched calcuated curve and uploaded settings.

went to setup and made sure config were uploaded.

One very noticable change was how weak bass from JL fathom was


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Please say this: "Why yes, Bob. I went into Setup > Source Setup and made sure that Room EQ = ON was in fact set for each source device."











After that, go ahead and post your latest ARC charts for the AVM 50 and let's take a look.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

Why yes, Bob I went into Setup- Room EQ=ON

especially after watching Slumdog HT basement & family room.

I watched it twice to make comparison


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neff2k* /forum/post/16368777
> 
> 
> Placed my order the first week of March.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another note, I really can't believe the difference in audio between the AVM 50 and the D2v. I haven't even been able to use the ARC yet and the sounds is just amazing. I never would have imagined this much of a difference. Happy as can be.



Thanks for the information. I ordered about 3 weeks after you did, so maybe there is hope for May after all.


I'm glad to hear your opinion about the audio as well. I decided to spring for the D2V based on other opinions that there was a significant difference in the audio quality. Good to hear that is consistent with your experience.


----------



## zuesmaximus

Bob,

first thing I'm going to do is run arc again and post results...

its driving me crazy, my HT should sound thousand times better, eventhough I'm using the avm50.

One bright spot is the Panasonic PJ picture on 150" screen looks amazing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16372935
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> first thing I'm going to do is run arc again and post results...
> 
> its driving me crazy, my HT should sound thousand times better, eventhough I'm using the avm50.
> 
> One bright spot is the Panasonic PJ picture on 150" screen looks amazing.



Before you re-run ARC, double check your wiring to make sure you haven't done something silly like swapping the Center channel and the subwoofer. You can use the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration to confirm that each speaker is in fact wired where it should be.


Make sure your sub is wired using its line level input.


Also double check that your subwoofer is actually powered on and that you didn't flip any of its configuration switches by mistake. If you are using Triggers to turn things on, check those as well.


I know this is all basic stuff, but it is just things like this that get screwed up when you wire in a new processor like you've done.

--Bob


----------



## Woodrow

Just wanted to update my Anthem warranty issue. Just got back in town and talked to the dealer and Anthem is going to cover the whole $255 in labor. I just have to cover the shippig of the bad board back to Anthem so the guys at Anthem took care of me and I'm very appreciative. Its nice knowing that Anthem has your back regardless of the dealer. Can't wait to get it back in my rack...I've missed it pretty bad.







.


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16372990
> 
> 
> Before you re-run ARC, double check your wiring to make sure you haven't done something silly like swapping the Center channel and the subwoofer. You can use the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration to confirm that each speaker is in fact wired where it should be.
> 
> 
> Make sure your sub is wired using its line level input.
> 
> 
> Also double check that your subwoofer is actually powered on and that you didn't flip any of its configuration switches by mistake. If you are using Triggers to turn things on, check those as well.
> 
> 
> I know this is all basic stuff, but it is just things like this that get screwed up when you wire in a new processor like you've done.
> 
> --Bob



You're right Bob, since I built my HT by myself. I might of had some slip ups. So after hooking up equipment I ran test tones and made sure all xlr connections were correct.

that last item was the JL sub which I had to run xlr cable to it.(which it forgot)









Setup is MCA50 powering aerial acoustic center & rears & revel surronds. MCA20 powering Monitor Audio golds fronts. Jl sub I bypass eq so arc will do its things


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Woodrow* /forum/post/16373128
> 
> 
> Just wanted to update my Anthem warranty issue. Just got back in town and talked to the dealer and Anthem is going to cover the whole $255 in labor. I just have to cover the shippig of the bad board back to Anthem so the guys at Anthem took care of me and I'm very appreciative. Its nice knowing that Anthem has your back regardless of the dealer. Can't wait to get it back in my rack...I've missed it pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Good news!

--Bob


----------



## Woodrow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16373161
> 
> 
> Good news!
> 
> --Bob



Heck yeah its good news. Thanks to you guys and this thread too. Its great being able to consult with folks who know about this type of stuff and have "been there".


----------



## RayZn

I feel honored Bob in your gracing me with a reply. The Sony 5000ES is on firmware 17 released very recently. Another poster noted weird sound from his BPD-550 which I think uses the same firmware. So yea, maybe on the Sony end there is more to do. Thank you for your help. Do recall that none of my equipment in my current e-stack gave me problems with my D2 which had worked flawlessly under firmware 1.33. But then again when I got my D2 three years ago is was on, I think, firmware 1.10. In those days it's perfection was no where near what it would become later under 1.33. I think the D2v has the same kind of future when it goes beyond 2.04. I have that much faith in this fine company.


Enjoy all...

Ray


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Woodrow* /forum/post/16373128
> 
> 
> Just wanted to update my Anthem warranty issue. Just got back in town and talked to the dealer and Anthem is going to cover the whole $255 in labor. I just have to cover the shippig of the bad board back to Anthem so the guys at Anthem took care of me and I'm very appreciative. Its nice knowing that Anthem has your back regardless of the dealer. Can't wait to get it back in my rack...I've missed it pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .










Great!


I wouldn't have thought Anthem would have abandoned you!


Guess that's the last time that dealer will ever see you.............


----------



## shawnwalters

I just bought a Sim2 C3X1080 and am going to hook up both hdmi's to my Sim2 (both hdmis going to the same projector - it has 2 ports) from the Anthem. The only problem is the Anthem won't output anything (even sound) if both hdmi's are connected. As soon as I remove one of them from the back of the Anthem, it all works. Any idea why both are not working simultaneously?


Thanks,

Shawn


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RayZn* /forum/post/16373527
> 
> 
> I feel honored Bob in your gracing me with a reply. The Sony 5000ES is on firmware 17 released very recently. Another poster noted weird sound from his BPD-550 which I think uses the same firmware. So yea, maybe on the Sony end there is more to do. Thank you for your help. Do recall that none of my equipment in my current e-stack gave me problems with my D2 which had worked flawlessly under firmware 1.33. But then again when I got my D2 three years ago is was on, I think, firmware 1.10. In those days it's perfection was no where near what it would become later under 1.33. I think the D2v has the same kind of future when it goes beyond 2.04. I have that much faith in this fine company.
> 
> 
> Enjoy all...
> 
> Ray



No problem!


It can be a nuisance to track down issues when more than one device is changing at the same time. Perhaps we have some other Sony 5000ES users here who can chime in with how it's working for them with an AVM 50v or D2v.


Oh, and welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16374072
> 
> 
> I just bought a Sim2 C3X1080 and am going to hook up both hdmi's to my Sim2 (both hdmis going to the same projector - it has 2 ports) from the Anthem. The only problem is the Anthem won't output anything (even sound) if both hdmi's are connected. As soon as I remove one of them from the back of the Anthem, it all works. Any idea why both are not working simultaneously?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Shawn



Both HDMI outputs are always live at the same time. I can only assume there's some copy protection problem when you try to send both of them to the same projector. Since the handshake is failing, playback is muted. That's a very unusual way to hook things up. What are you trying to accomplish by doing that?

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16374171
> 
> 
> Both HDMI outputs are always live at the same time. I can only assume there's some copy protection problem when you try to send both of them to the same projector. Since the handshake is failing, playback is muted. That's a very unusual way to hook things up. What are you trying to accomplish by doing that?
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I wanted to do it for a few different reasons, but one which was so I could send 1080p24 on one of them and 1080p60 on another. But then I started looking in the menus, and I think you can do that with the video out configs through a single hdmi right?


----------



## BJB23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16374072
> 
> 
> I just bought a Sim2 C3X1080 and am going to hook up both hdmi's to my Sim2 (both hdmis going to the same projector - it has 2 ports) from the Anthem. The only problem is the Anthem won't output anything (even sound) if both hdmi's are connected. As soon as I remove one of them from the back of the Anthem, it all works. Any idea why both are not working simultaneously?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Shawn



What sources are you using?


I've had the same problem but it is only with my Sony BPD550. The D2v works fine with a DirecTv DVR. The same problem occurs whether the HDMI outs are connected to the same display or to different displays. I assumed it was an issue with the Sony but at least one other person reported that their Sony BPD550 worked fine with two displays. The D2v will not output any signal to either display when both are connected, not even the Anthem video menu. I've been meaning to call Anthem and sort out the problem but just haven't had time and since I'm only going to have the D2v hooked up to one display its not a pressing issue. I will report back if I ever find a solution and thanks to Bob P. for his early suggestions.


-Brad


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16374224
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I wanted to do it for a few different reasons, but one which was so I could send 1080p24 on one of them and 1080p60 on another. But then I started looking in the menus, and I think you can do that with the video out configs through a single hdmi right?


*YES - CORRECT*


But I'm sure BOB will provide more detail


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16374224
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I wanted to do it for a few different reasons, but one which was so I could send 1080p24 on one of them and 1080p60 on another. But then I started looking in the menus, and I think you can do that with the video out configs through a single hdmi right?



As DRHANKZ says, yes correct. And Bob will provide more details.


The key detail I wanted to add is that you CAN'T specify a different video output configuration on the two HDMI outputs. They run in parallel and carry the same output configuration at all times.


But yes, you can specify 1080p/60 and 1080p/24 as separate Video Output configurations and switch to either of them on a single HDMI output as needed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BJB23* /forum/post/16374264
> 
> 
> What sources are you using?
> 
> 
> I've had the same problem but it is only with my Sony BPD550. The D2v works fine with a DirecTv DVR. The same problem occurs whether the HDMI outs are connected to the same display or to different displays. I assumed it was an issue with the Sony but at least one other person reported that their Sony BPD550 worked fine with two displays. The D2v will not output any signal to either display when both are connected, not even the Anthem video menu. I've been meaning to call Anthem and sort out the problem but just haven't had time and since I'm only going to have the D2v hooked up to one display its not a pressing issue. I will report back if I ever find a solution and thanks to Bob P. for his early suggestions.
> 
> 
> -Brad



The HDMI-2 output doesn't carry any of the on-screen displays. This is the one difference between what is presented on the two outputs. So that at least is normal.


But if hooking up the second output to a different display is muting video on both outputs then that is definitely NOT normal. By all means work the problem with Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## BJB23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16374405
> 
> 
> The HDMI-2 output doesn't carry any of the on-screen displays. This is the one difference between what is presented on the two outputs. So that at least is normal.
> 
> 
> But if hooking up the second output to a different display is muting video on both outputs then that is definitely NOT normal. By all means work the problem with Anthem tech support.
> 
> --Bob



The video is muted on both outputs, so the on-screen displays don't work on the display connected to HDMI-1. I plan on calling Anthem tech support at some point to see if they can find a solution. Thanks.


-Brad


----------



## zuesmaximus

well here are my results from my D.HT








Attachment 141386 

Attachment 141387


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16375923
> 
> 
> well here are my results from my D.HT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attachment 141386
> 
> Attachment 141387



Well you've got plenty of output from the subwoofer, but there's definitely something strange going on with LF/RF. I don't understand why the crossover is set so high for those. You didn't change the "cutoff" Target for LF/RF yourself did you?


Please post a capture of your Targets window as well.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16376014
> 
> 
> Well you've got plenty of output from the subwoofer, but there's definitely something strange going on with LF/RF. I don't understand why the crossover is set so high for those. You didn't change the "cutoff" Target for LF/RF yourself did you?
> 
> 
> Please post a capture of your Targets window as well.
> 
> --Bob



Bob

thanks for looking at my results. I didn't change anything except the MAX EQ like you recommended with the AVM50v.
Attachment 141400


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16376158
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> thanks for looking at my results. I didn't change anything except the MAX EQ like you recommended with the AVM50v.
> Attachment 141400



OK, take a look at the "cutoff" for LF/RF in the Movie configuration compared to the Music configuration.


For Music it is 60Hz, which makes perfectly good sense.


For Movie it is 160Hz which is nuts.


Now I notice that you raised Max EQ Frequency target to 16KHz (16000).


So I'm going to guess here that at some point you went to type in that 16000 without realizing the "cutoff" line for LF/RF was what was actually selected for editing, and it accepted up to "160" of that (since there are limits on how high it can set the cutoff). Since 160 is visually pretty close to 60 you didn't notice you'd done that.


So here's what you do:


1) Open that file in Advanced mode.


2) Enter the Targets window.


3) Click on Auto Detect. This will cause ARC to re-evaluate your Measurements and restore its own choices for all the target values just as if you'd just done a new set of Measurements. I'm betting you'll find the "cutoff" for LF/RF becomes 60Hz.


4) Edit the Max EQ Frequency value to 16KHz, or whatever other value you want to use.


NOTE: Right now your Music configuration is the same as your Movie configuration so you may not even be using Music for anything, but if you want to use Music for any sources, you will also want to edit its Max EQ Frequency target value.


5) Take another look at all the values in Targets to make sure you've only changed Max EQ Frequency, then click OK to accept those changes and dismiss the Targets window.


6) Do a Calculate, and then do an Upload.


I think your system will sound MUCH better with the crossover and cutoff for LF/RF set to the proper value.


When you decide to use a Music configuration that differs from your Movie configuration, keep in mind that you can view the Music charts by selecting them in the View menu of the ARC application.

--Bob


----------



## BruceSB

Hi Everyone

Has anyone seen the absolutely fantastic Statement D2v/P2/P5 review in the latest Hi-Fi News (June)?

Outstanding Product.

Well worth a read (but I am probably preaching to the choir!).

Loved it!

Great listen review.

Great technical review.

Very impressed with ARC.

As for me, yes, I am planning to get one in the not too distant future.

Other people may wish to post their responses to this review.

Bruce


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BruceSB* /forum/post/16376362
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone
> 
> Has anyone seen the absolutely fantastic Statement D2v/P2/P5 review in the latest Hi-Fi News (June)?
> 
> Outstanding Product.
> 
> Well worth a read (but I am probably preaching to the choir!).
> 
> Loved it!
> 
> Great listen review.
> 
> Great technical review.
> 
> Very impressed with ARC.
> 
> As for me, yes, I am planning to get one in the not too distant future.
> 
> Other people may wish to post their responses to this review.
> 
> Bruce



Thanks for the heads up on that, and welcome to AVS and to the thread!

--Bob


----------



## Michael_V

Here's a problem I can't figure out: the AVM50v is still letterboxing all my 4:3 material even though I have it set to 16:9 and Anamorphic Stretch. My Pioneer's internal scaler (now disabled) always got this right. What is going on?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16376568
> 
> 
> Here's a problem I can't figure out: the AVM50v is still letterboxing all my 4:3 material even though I have it set to 16:9 and Anamorphic Stretch. My Pioneer's internal scaler (now disabled) always got this right. What is going on?



Double check that the bars you are seeing are actually being generated by the AVM 50v.


To do that, go into Setup > Video Output and temporarily set Letterbox to something other than Black.


It is possible the bars you are seeing are either in the content already or are being added by the source device.


What source device are you using for this?

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

Thanks Bob, will do.

I can't understand how the 160 change was made. maybe as you mentioned I highlighted that area. very weird.

I'm still trying to figure out why the Jl sub doesn't sound right.

My other sub(sunfire) sounds tighter, lower and cleaner...

I think it should be reversed....maybe it could be location???


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16371293
> 
> 
> after a week of listening to my family room setup(avm50v)
> 
> I have noticed an incredible difference in video and audio.
> 
> 
> Now as for my basement HT(avm50) which I had Anthem install Arc on. Just finished my HT build about three weeks ago. I was excepting a dramatic change in audio and video due to what the avm50v did to my family room. But I was dissapointed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a large difference in the two units...
> 
> I guess I have to out and purchase another avm50v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will post my arc results to see if I'm missing something.
> 
> Manny




I dont know if this is good news for me. I am trying to find a reason not to upgrade to the V when Anthem starts letting use upgrade.


Was is just music or movies you heard the big difference?


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/16377071
> 
> 
> I dont know if this is good news for me. I am trying to find a reason not to upgrade to the V when Anthem starts letting use upgrade.
> 
> 
> Was is just music or movies you heard the big difference?



Budeone, I would highly recommend the AVM50v. I replace the avm50 with the V in my not so ideal family room and WOW







what a difference in video and audio. I watch alot of movies and now its a new experience. Now I have to rewatch movies









I listen to music occasional and I can hear the difference in my Revels. Better than when I auditioned them at the dealer.

You won't regret the upgrade...


----------



## scanido

I believe this may have been dicussed, but i would like confirmation. Does the ARC software apply phase and EQ?



If yes, what phase would i need to set for my subwoofer, 0 or 180? Is it a good idea to run the sub's built in EQ prior to running ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16376888
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, will do.
> 
> I can't understand how the 160 change was made. maybe as you mentioned I highlighted that area. very weird.
> 
> I'm still trying to figure out why the Jl sub doesn't sound right.
> 
> My other sub(sunfire) sounds tighter, lower and cleaner...
> 
> I think it should be reversed....maybe it could be location???



I think it is all related to forcing ARC to use the wrong crossover for LF/RF. That alters what ARC has to try to do for room correction for the subwoofer.


Fix the LF/RF stuff, re-Calculate, and re-Upload as I described and do that before making any other changes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/16377324
> 
> 
> I believe this may have been dicussed, but i would like confirmation. Does the ARC software apply phase and EQ?
> 
> 
> 
> If yes, what phase would i need to set for my subwoofer, 0 or 180? Is it a good idea to run the sub's built in EQ prior to running ARC?



I recommend you disable any EQ offered in the sub and see what you get letting ARC do all the work. If ARC can't provide complete correction (which is rare) you can go back and reset the EQ in the sub, and then re-Measure for ARC with that EQ now operating.


But generally it is better not to layer processing stages on top of each other.


[You should also disable or bypass any internal crossover processing built into the sub.]


---------------------------


ARC does *NOT* set subwoofer phase and polarity for you. You need to do that manually. Since ARC listens to only one speaker at a time during Measurement, if you have only one subwoofer you can adjust phase/polarity for it either before or after doing your ARC setup. The ARC results will just work better when you get the correct phase/polarity in place for your sub. There are a couple posts in the collection of post links in the first post of this thread that discuss manual setting of phase and polarity.


If you have more than one subwoofer, then you MUST adjust phase and polarity for each of them separately before doing ARC Measurements as ARC will hear them operating as a set.


You also need to enter the speaker distances manually. Do that before adjusting subwoofer phase/polarity.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/16377071
> 
> 
> I dont know if this is good news for me. I am trying to find a reason not to upgrade to the V when Anthem starts letting use upgrade.
> 
> 
> Was is just music or movies you heard the big difference?



Be aware that his initial setup for the AVM 50 has an error, so the comparison may not be quite so dramatic once he gets that fixed.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

On the topic of adjusting the video QT. Due I first ajust the monitor setting than go to anthem video source adjustment to fine tune picture?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16378165
> 
> 
> On the topic of adjusting the video QT. Due I first ajust the monitor setting than go to anthem video source adjustment to fine tune picture?



See the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post linked in the first post of this thread for the full set of tips and tricks.


Yes, you first set the display to work best with the Anthem's internally generated test patterns (Video Source Adjust > Patterns) and then you fine tune as necessary for each source device using the Video Source Adjust menu in the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

WOW....

your 2006 detailed steps are really going to help with my family room setup. I have a 73" mitsubishi DLP/ AVM50v can't wait to see results


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob,

If you remember I asked you a question regarding Sunfire and D2v couple of weeks ago. Well, I ordered my D2v a week ago and can't wait to receive it. But here is my delima for now. I have Polk speakers all around. LSi15 (front), LSic (center), LSifx (Sourrounds) and PSW1000 sub. The Anthem dealer in my area keeps pushing me to replace my speakers with Paradigm speakers that he is selling. the fronts are about $700 and I don't remember the center and surrounds. He says even the small paradigm speakers are much better than the Polk I have. He says the D2v is over kill for my speakers and I should purchase the Paradigm. But based on all the reviews I have read (pro and consumer) about these polk speakers that I have, they are great and at the same level as the Paradigm Studio speakers. I like them a lot too but I have no experience with other speakers. By the way I have the Earthquake Amp that pushes 600W per channel at 4 ohm which the polk speakers are. I want to get your advise on this. Are my speakers decent enough for D2v in a small family room I have or should I replace them with Paradigm as my dealer suggest. Thanks again for your great help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16378962
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> If you remember I asked you a question regarding Sunfire and D2v couple of weeks ago. Well, I ordered my D2v a week ago and can't wait to receive it. But here is my delima for now. I have Polk speakers all around. LSi15 (front), LSic (center), LSifx (Sourrounds) and PSW1000 sub. The Anthem dealer in my area keeps pushing me to replace my speakers with Paradigm speakers that he is selling. the fronts are about $700 and I don't remember the center and surrounds. He says even the small paradigm speakers are much better than the Polk I have. He says the D2v is over kill for my speakers and I should purchase the Paradigm. But based on all the reviews I have read (pro and consumer) about these polk speakers that I have, they are great and at the same level as the Paradigm Studio speakers. I like them a lot too but I have no experience with other speakers. By the way I have the Earthquake Amp that pushes 600W per channel at 4 ohm which the polk speakers are. I want to get your advise on this. Are my speakers decent enough for D2v in a small family room I have or should I replace them with Paradigm as my dealer suggest. Thanks again for your great help.



My advice is that you change one thing at a time.


Get your D2v set up and get the best you can get out of it with your current speakers, then see if you can arrange with the dealer to audition some of the speakers he would like you to buy in your home with the D2v. Then you'll know.


I really like Paradigm's older small speakers from listening to them years ago, but I don't have any practical experience with their current speakers. Nor do I have any practical experience with your Polk speakers.


Generally speaking upgrading speakers is almost always a wise investment. But if you change the speakers and the D2v install at the same time you'll never really know for sure whether it WAS a speaker upgrade. Keep in mind that the ARC charts will tell you if your current speakers have any serious problems. Your ears will tell you the rest.


My guess is that if you do it in 2 steps as I suggest, you will still find yourself sorely tempted to buy the new speakers. But then that happens a lot in this hobby.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Thanks Bob.


----------



## zuesmaximus

Totally agree with Bob!


Give your Polks a shot










do you know what the eta on your D2v?


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16379034
> 
> 
> My advice is that you change one thing at a time.
> 
> 
> 
> My guess is that if you do it in 2 steps as I suggest, you will still find yourself sorely tempted to buy the new speakers. But then that happens a lot in this hobby.
> 
> --Bob



Agreed.... I have the Studio 100's .v4's, as tempted as I am to upgrade to the Sigs, as they are spectacular, I'm going to hold out, until after I get things setup really well with the D2v, then you can really gauge how much an improvement there will be....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16378875
> 
> 
> WOW....
> 
> your 2006 detailed steps are really going to help with my family room setup. I have a 73" mitsubishi DLP/ AVM50v can't wait to see results



Lest anyone panic, he's talking about the video setup tips I wrote up in 2006 (see the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post-link in the collection of links found in the first post of this thread). Not that it takes over two thousand steps to accomplish that!










--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16379898
> 
> 
> Lest anyone panic, he's talking about the video setup tips I wrote up in 2006 (see the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post-link in the collection of links found in the first post of this thread). Not that it takes over two thousand steps to accomplish that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob












sorry about that...

Bob, does tips still hold true today?


----------



## zuesmaximus

I actually printed them out, only six pages long...

very detailed


----------



## CycloneMike

Off topic - somewhat....


I am considering purchasing the Oppo BDP-83 to go with my D2v. The hope is that it will replace my sometimes quirky and unreliable Denon 5900 (although since I opened it up and cleaned the laser and transport mechanism about 6 months ago it has worked fine) and it might replace the PS3, if my son decides he would like to have that in another location (it is his after all...).


Any recommendations from those of you who have tried the Oppo BDP for setup with the D2v?


How reliable, in general, are Oppo products? I see they offer a standard 1 year warranty and an extra cost for 1 and 2 year extensions.


Thank you,


Mike


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/16292055
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> This is interesting. I ordered one last week from a very relaible large dealer that sold me my original D2. He spoke to an Anthem rep who stated it should be about 3 weeks.
> 
> 
> I will keep the group posted.
> 
> 
> Lou




Well, received my D2v2 today 3 weeks after ordering. Am I right in assuming that the original tweaking guide that was posted when I had my original D2?


I love new toys.










Can someone let me know if there is anyting drastically different between the two?


Thanks,


Lou


----------



## Woodrow

Just wanted to update my update. Picked up my P5 today without issue and didn't even have to pay to ship the bad board. Called Anthem and made sure and thanked them for their help. Nick said his impression was my dealer just wasn't clear that it was a full parts and labor warranty and since I trust the guys at Anthem, I take their word for it and just assume it was a misunderstanding and the dealer meant no harm. Regardless I got my P5 back so thanks again guys and thanks to Anthem too!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" SetupEditor V2.00e now on Password Protected Download Page*


A new "test" version of SetupEditor, V2.00e, is now up on Anthem's password protected download page. Although there is a text file in there with it, there's no information about it actually in the text file.


The application is labeled as AVM50v and D2v so it may not work with AVM50 and D2 units. I'm also not sure if it is supposed to work with the current V2.04 firmware for the new units, or if it is intended for the next firmware version.


SetupEditor is a utility that lets you view and edit Setup menu settings from a PC. In the past it was also used to backup Setup menu settings -- a function that has now been taken over by the SettingsBackup utility. The old SetupEditor didn't keep up with changes in the newer firmware and became obsolete. Apparently they are bringing it back.


I'm in no hurry to try this one, myself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/16380364
> 
> 
> Well, received my D2v2 today 3 weeks after ordering. Am I right in assuming that the original tweaking guide that was posted when I had my original D2?
> 
> 
> I love new toys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone let me know if there is anyting drastically different between the two?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Lou



There have been some changes in the menus, but if you remember how you did things with your D2 the D2v will hold no fears for you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16380288
> 
> 
> Off topic - somewhat....
> 
> 
> I am considering purchasing the Oppo BDP-83 to go with my D2v. The hope is that it will replace my sometimes quirky and unreliable Denon 5900 (although since I opened it up and cleaned the laser and transport mechanism about 6 months ago it has worked fine) and it might replace the PS3, if my son decides he would like to have that in another location (it is his after all...).
> 
> 
> Any recommendations from those of you who have tried the Oppo BDP for setup with the D2v?
> 
> 
> How reliable, in general, are Oppo products? I see they offer a standard 1 year warranty and an extra cost for 1 and 2 year extensions.
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> Mike



I'm currently using the following:


Video: HDMI 1080p, "16:9 Wide/Auto", YCbC4 4:4:4, 36-bit "Deep Color", 1080p/24 Auto, DVD/24 Off

Audio: Secondary Audio OFF, HDMI LPCM or HDMI Bitstream audio (I use both for testing).


Be sure to check out the BDP-83 FAQ -- link available in the first post of the BDP-83 Early Adopter Program thread in the Blu-Ray players forum.


Oppo has a good reputation for reliability and an excellent reputation for customer service.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BruceSB* /forum/post/16376362
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone
> 
> Has anyone seen the absolutely fantastic Statement D2v/P2/P5 review in the latest Hi-Fi News (June)?
> 
> Outstanding Product.
> 
> Well worth a read (but I am probably preaching to the choir!).
> 
> Loved it!
> 
> Great listen review.
> 
> Great technical review.
> 
> Very impressed with ARC.
> 
> As for me, yes, I am planning to get one in the not too distant future.
> 
> Other people may wish to post their responses to this review.
> 
> Bruce



My copy just landed today.


Try these quotes;


"Thoroughly inspired"


"With the EQ dsabled...the power amps [P2 and P5] set on kill (0db) rather than stun (-6db), the sound is somewhere between epically huge and monumentally vast"


"...engaging ARC elevates the Anthem from plain old excellent to absolutely magical..."


"....thoroughly impressive in detailing and clarity......the like of which I have never previously achieved in my system"


Lab Report ; "This is by far the most versatile and powerful HD AV processor we've tested and in almost every respect it sets the benchmark"

Full lab report > http://www.milleraudioresearch.com/avtech/index.html


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16380288
> 
> 
> Off topic - somewhat....
> 
> 
> I am considering purchasing the Oppo BDP-83 to go with my D2v. The hope is that it will replace my sometimes quirky and unreliable Denon 5900 (although since I opened it up and cleaned the laser and transport mechanism about 6 months ago it has worked fine) and it might replace the PS3, if my son decides he would like to have that in another location (it is his after all...).
> 
> 
> Any recommendations from those of you who have tried the Oppo BDP for setup with the D2v?
> 
> 
> How reliable, in general, are Oppo products? I see they offer a standard 1 year warranty and an extra cost for 1 and 2 year extensions.
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> Mike



I haven't tried the BDP-83, but I'm pretty much waiting for it to ship officially to put my order in.


This is based on past experience with their 970 DVD player, that is a solid and well-supported piece of equipment.


The thing I like about my 970 is that it mates perfectly with the D2 - 480i in and all the important work like scaling and deinterlacing is done by the D2. What attracts me to the BDP is that it has a direct mode - so I can play SD-DVD at 480i or BluRay at 1080p and let the D2 do it's thing. Plus, being universal, I can put the 970 (still going strong after 2.5 years) into the bedroom and play any disc in the theater.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16379208
> 
> 
> Totally agree with Bob!
> 
> 
> Give your Polks a shot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do you know what the eta on your D2v?



They said about 4 weeks.


----------



## runnerlk

So, since I did not have ARC on my original D2, how will that affect my JL Audio Fathom since it has it's own room correction?


----------



## malcolmp6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/16380364
> 
> 
> Well, received my D2v2 today 3 weeks after ordering.
> 
> 
> Lou




It has been 6 weeks for me and I am patiently waiting. Enjoy your D2v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/16381298
> 
> 
> So, since I did not have ARC on my original D2, how will that affect my JL Audio Fathom since it has it's own room correction?



If you can't disable the room correction in the Fathom, then set it up as best you can and AFTER it is set up do your ARC Measurements so that ARC hears the corrected output from the Fathom.


But if you can disable the room correction in the Fathom, do that first (along with turning off any internal crossover it has) -- then Meausre for ARC with it off. Let ARC do all the work -- and see if you can get all the correction you need that way. No need to layer processing stages if you don't have to.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16381108
> 
> 
> My copy just landed today.
> 
> 
> Try these quotes;
> 
> 
> "Thoroughly inspired"
> 
> 
> "With the EQ dsabled...the power amps [P2 and P5] set on kill (0db) rather than stun (-6db), the sound is somewhere between epically huge and monumentally vast"
> 
> 
> "...engaging ARC elevates the Anthem from plain old excellent to absolutely magical..."
> 
> 
> "....thoroughly impressive in detailing and clarity......the like of which I have never previously achieved in my system"
> 
> 
> Lab Report ; "This is by far the most versatile and powerful HD AV processor we've tested and in almost every respect it sets the benchmark"
> 
> Full lab report > http://www.milleraudioresearch.com/avtech/index.html



That'll do, pig. That'll do.









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malcolmp6* /forum/post/16381460
> 
> 
> It has been 6 weeks for me and I am patiently waiting. Enjoy your D2v.



Based on the tea leaves I've seen, I believe the realistic lead time is still about 8 weeks, and probably will remain that long into the summer.


This doesn't count cases of a dealer handing you a unit that was ordered earlier for somebody else as ONE of our posters reported!









--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/16381298
> 
> 
> So, since I did not have ARC on my original D2, how will that affect my JL Audio Fathom since it has it's own room correction?



The Fathom has a "Defeat" button that turns off it's EQ.


----------



## zuesmaximus

any comments







on my new arc results.

the sound from AVM50v compared to AVM50 has more noticable effect. In my belief its an amazing unit. I can't imagine how great the D2v is









Attachment 141498 

Attachment 141499 

I think I'm crazy but should I hear a difference when I turn EQ on & off???


Manny


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16381085
> 
> 
> I'm currently using the following:
> 
> 
> Video: HDMI 1080p, "16:9 Wide/Auto", YCbC4 4:4:4, 36-bit "Deep Color", 1080p/24 Auto, DVD/24 Off
> 
> Audio: Secondary Audio OFF, HDMI LPCM or HDMI Bitstream audio (I use both for testing).



Bob - I think you may have touched on this before either here or in the EAP thread but is there a reason you are using 1080P rather than Source Direct?


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malcolmp6* /forum/post/16381460
> 
> 
> It has been 6 weeks for me and I am patiently waiting. Enjoy your D2v.



I've been waiting 5 weeks...


My dealer actually had one in stock but somebody beat me to it by 3 days....


----------



## Johnsteph10

I've been waiting almost 7 weeks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16383700
> 
> 
> Bob - I think you may have touched on this before either here or in the EAP thread but is there a reason you are using 1080P rather than Source Direct?



Yes. I'm doing a lot of testing that involves going in and out of 480i "extras" content (and SD-DVD content) which is 4:3. Using "16:9 Wide/Auto" mode on the Oppo the pillar boxing happens automatically.


In Source Direct the Oppo does not add pillar boxes, as Source Direct bypasses the VRS video processor. That also means you can't test/use some of the video adjustment features in the Oppo such as Y/C Delay.


Meanwhile on the Anthem side, I finally realized I need to use Pillar Box to get proper 16:9 on my 768p plasma. Its "native" input mode is 1360x768p and 16:9 is actually 1360x765p. Thus if I use Anamorphic, the 16:9 input is stretched vertically by 3 lines.


So I want to use Pillar Box on the Anthem.


But there is a problem in the current Anthem firmware which causes it to ignore the 16:9 aspect ratio flag on 480i/480p input. This is something Anthem had to do because of incorrect flags being sent by too many cable boxes. They are working on a more sophisticated solution for that but at the moment they just ignore that input flag. And that means that 480i/480p content which should be 16:9 is treated by the Anthem as 4:3 -- and thus bars are added if you use Pillar Box.


So if I use Source Direct in the Oppo, or switch it to explicit 480i/480p output, I need to manually change the Anthem from Pillar Box to Anamorphic when watching 480i 16:9 content (e.g., anamorphic SD-DVDs) or that content will be incorrectly squeezed.


Lastly, in my testing I've become convinced that the scaling in the Oppo is excellent. So letting it scale 480i content to 1080p costs me nothing.


I use 1080p/24 Auto from the Oppo for Blu-Ray, but I do have DVD/24 Off in the Oppo when scaling DVDs up to 1080p since my display doesn't actually benefit from /24 input and that's one less processing step.


As for de-interlacing, the film-mode de-interlacing in the Oppo seems to be just as good as what the D2v provides. So again no problem when de-interlacing (prior to scaling) film-based SD-DVDs.


The video-mode de-interlacing in the D2v tests as slightly superior to what the Oppo provides, so if I was doing critical watching of video based 480i content I likely would switch to Source Direct from the Oppo (which also causes it to add no pillar box bars) and since such content is often 4:3 I can just leave the Anthem in Pillar Box as well.


So it is basically a convenience thing, particularly for the testing I'm doing where I'm spending a lot of time going in and out of extras content.


And it works because the scaling in the Oppo is excellent, and its de-interlacing is very close to excellent.


-----------------------------------------


If you have a 1080p display, you don't need to use Pillar Box in the Anthem for the reason I'm using it, and thus Source Direct from the Oppo will work fine for 16:9 content. But then you would need to manually switch the Anthem to Pillar Box when watching 4:3 content to get pillar box bars added at high resolution.


-----------------------------------------


Another advantage of using 1080p from the Oppo is the ability to use its high quality Zoom modes -- "Full" mode in particular -- which are also implemented in the VRS.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16382638
> 
> 
> any comments
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on my new arc results.
> 
> the sound from AVM50v compared to AVM50 has more noticable effect. In my belief its an amazing unit. I can't imagine how great the D2v is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attachment 141498
> 
> Attachment 141499
> 
> I think I'm crazy but should I hear a difference when I turn EQ on & off???
> 
> 
> Manny



These charts look fine and should sound quite good.


Yes you should hear a difference between Room EQ On/Off for each source. But you may have to listen carefully to spot it as much of the mid-range frequencies in your speakers don't need significant correction. Better quality content will be more likely to show the differences.


Look at the difference between the red Measured curves and the green Calculated curves. That's where you will be hearing most of the difference.


You will also hear a much more seamless transition of bass between the main speakers and the sub (low mid-range to high bass) with Room EQ ON.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16384472
> 
> 
> These charts look fine and should sound quite good.
> 
> 
> Yes you should hear a difference between Room EQ On/Off for each source. But you may have to listen carefully to spot it as much of the mid-range frequencies in your speakers don't need significant correction. Better quality content will be more likely to show the differences.
> 
> 
> Look at the difference between the red Measured curves and the green Calculated curves. That's where you will be hearing most of the difference.
> 
> 
> You will also hear a much more seamless transition of bass between the main speakers and the sub (low mid-range to high bass) with Room EQ ON.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob


I had to rerun arc for some reason... my original results; I couldn't recal and upload. Kept getting error of license issue which would be impossible. I have the mic and cd labeled for AVM50 only, inwhich it had no problem to remeasure.

Today I'm going to play with video settings (anthem to PJ)


----------



## Charlie_Phogg

I tried to look through this enormous thread but can't seem to find an answer to this question. On an AVM-50v, if I feed it a signal from my SA-8300HD cable box via component/optical then let the AVM do its thing an feed my display via HDMI is there an audio signal present on the HDMI feed to the display?


The reason I ask is my HT room is really my living room and must serve triple duty as the main TV room, HT and music room. When viewing the TV, I don't really want or need the whole system fired up for watching the news etc. and would like to just use the build in speakers in the display for audio most of the time. Is this possible? I know I can set the trigger to my amp to be disabled when viewing the TV but need to know if the display will be getting any audio signal if I do this.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16385083
> 
> 
> I tried to look through this enormous thread but can't seem to find an answer to this question. On an AVM-50v, if I feed it a signal from my SA-8300HD cable box via component/optical then let the AVM do its thing an feed my display via HDMI is there an audio signal present on the HDMI feed to the display?
> 
> 
> The reason I ask is my HT room is really my living room and must serve triple duty as the main TV room, HT and music room. When viewing the TV, I don't really want or need the whole system fired up for watching the news etc. and would like to just use the build in speakers in the display for audio most of the time. Is this possible? I know I can set the trigger to my amp to be disabled when viewing the TV but need to know if the display will be getting any audio signal if I do this.
> 
> 
> Thanks



The HDMI output from the AVM 50v carries a 2-channel (stereo) down-mix of whatever audio is currently selected for the Main path in the Anthem. This is sent out as 2.0 HDMI LPCM 48KHz. This is specifically intended for folks who occasionally want to use stereo speakers built into their HDMI display.


See Section 2.2 of the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## Charlie_Phogg

Thanks Bob. I should have spent more time searching the (very good) manual







. That will do exactly what I want it to do then.


I'm off the my local dealer to put my order in.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16385041
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob
> 
> 
> I had to rerun arc for some reason... my original results; I couldn't recal and upload. Kept getting error of license issue which would be impossible. I have the mic and cd labeled for AVM50 only, inwhich it had no problem to remeasure.
> 
> Today I'm going to play with video settings (anthem to PJ)



Make sure you are running the installed version of the ARC application -- the one in Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction -- and not any other copy that might be on your computer as for example in a folder you download from the Anthem site. Only the installed version will see the licensing/calibration files correctly.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

exactly... I recal. the original test which I accidentially change 60 to 160 on LF fronts...

I couldn't upload those settings.


----------



## zuesmaximus

I think I need to order another AVM50v


----------



## akopperl

When I watch some TV programs (source DirecTV HR21 HD DVR) that appear to be Dolby Digital 2.0 - my AVM50v displays that the signal is 5.1. The OSD also displays that there are 5.1 channels being input and output from the processor. However, I only get sound from the front right and left channels. I have the processor set to playback Anthem-Cinema for 2.0 sources - but since it thinks that the source is 5.1, it is not activated. There are other 2.0 programs that are read properly and Anthem-Cinema is used to playback the audio.


Has anyone else experience this issue? Is this a known bug?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/16385698
> 
> 
> When I watch some TV programs (source DirecTV HR21 HD DVR) that appear to be Dolby Digital 2.0 - my AVM50v displays that the signal is 5.1. The OSD also displays that there are 5.1 channels being input and output from the processor. However, I only get sound from the front right and left channels. I have the processor set to playback Anthem-Cinema for 2.0 sources - but since it thinks that the source is 5.1, it is not activated. There are other 2.0 programs that are read properly and Anthem-Cinema is used to playback the audio.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experience this issue? Is this a known bug?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I don't think we've had that reported yet. Please discuss this with Anthem tech support. If you have a recorded program on your DVR that does this then you can use that as a repeatable case.


If you CAN'T get the failure when playing a recorded program then that too will be revealing.


Also try interrupting the audio stream -- e.g., pause or reverse on the DVR and Play again to see if that cures the problem.


The trick here is to try to figure out whether the bug is in the DVR or in the AVM 50v. The DVR's implementation of the audio handshake may be getting confused by the extra capabilities of the AVM 50v (e.g., 7.1 input).

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I have seen quite a few broadcasts with stereo output in a 5.1 wrapper could that be what is going on?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16386166
> 
> 
> I have seen quite a few broadcasts with stereo output in a 5.1 wrapper could that be what is going on?



Good point. Sometimes that is even provider dependent. The DirecTV content thread in the HDTV forum here may have mention if DirecTV has had a problem recently with incorrectly sending out 2.0 content as DD5.1. I know that Comcast has had all SORTS of problems trying to figure out how to rebroadcast Starz movies. Things like stripping out the LFE channel (which they like to do in their godawful "On Demand" service) or even the Center channel (which is great fun if you want to do Karaoke to movies).

--Bob


----------



## PArmola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16368806
> 
> 
> PArmola does this old post of mine sound similar? If so I ended up sending my D2 back for a replacement to fix the problem.




Yes it does. I think I'll call Anthem Monday morning and see what they recommend.


Thanks Obie



Paul


----------



## fuzzybk

Can you guys recommend a USB to serial adapter to update my Anthem. I'm running a laptop with Vista Home Premiun 64 bit.


thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/16386837
> 
> 
> Can you guys recommend a USB to serial adapter to update my Anthem. I'm running a laptop with Vista Home Premiun 64 bit.
> 
> 
> thanks.



Most Windows users posting here have had the best luck with the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter, available from Amazon among other places.


When you get it, go to the Keyspan support site and verify that the device driver that came in the package is the latest driver for 64-bit Vista. If not, download and install the newer driver.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16381108
> 
> 
> My copy just landed today.
> 
> 
> Try these quotes;
> 
> 
> "Thoroughly inspired"
> 
> 
> "With the EQ dsabled...the power amps [P2 and P5] set on kill (0db) rather than stun (-6db), the sound is somewhere between epically huge and monumentally vast"
> 
> 
> "...engaging ARC elevates the Anthem from plain old excellent to absolutely magical..."
> 
> 
> "....thoroughly impressive in detailing and clarity......the like of which I have never previously achieved in my system"
> 
> 
> Lab Report ; "This is by far the most versatile and powerful HD AV processor we've tested and in almost every respect it sets the benchmark"
> 
> Full lab report > http://www.milleraudioresearch.com/avtech/index.html



Huh... Guess they didn't use ARC?


You *have* to set the P2/P5 to -6db in order for ARC to work, at least I did, otherwise it keeps saying it's too loud.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16388404
> 
> 
> 
> You *have* to set the P2/P5 to -6db in order for ARC to work, at least I did, otherwise it keeps saying it's too loud.



It probably depends on the efficiency of your speakers

attached to your amplifier as to whether or not you need -6db


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16388522
> 
> 
> It probably depends on the efficiency of your speakers
> 
> attached to your amplifier as to whether or not you need -6db



-6db = more or less efficient? I've got PDigm Signature S6/C5/S2/ADP3.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/16386837
> 
> 
> Can you guys recommend a USB to serial adapter to update my Anthem. I'm running a laptop with Vista Home Premiun 64 bit.
> 
> 
> thanks.



I forgot to post what I bought...


I have Vista 64 as well.... I didn't want to have problems with a USB to serial with Vista like some are reporting so I got a PCMCIA card.... $25.00

Vista 64 supported....










search ebay for Seller (by store by name) " Novatech " cant link ebay stuff... They were the only cards I could find that supported Vista at a decent price.


they also have pcmcia express cards if you need that...


Ebay Item # 260391847491 for as long as it lasts anyways...


----------



## dweltman

I'm wondering if there will be a new D2V firmware version soon. I've reported a couple of issues to Anthem and I'm curious to see if they can fix 'em...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My guess is the next firmware is waiting release of the Dolby Volume feature.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

After reading many of the posts here about the Anthem processor, I have decided to take the plunge and purchase a used D2 with ARC.


The unit is 2 years old and has been upgraded to software version 1.33. I understand that it is still under warranty and that it is upgradable to the D2V.


A few questions:

1. Is 1.33 the latest software? If not, how difficult is it to upgrade to newest version? Do I have to pay extra for the upgrade?

2. How many years warranty do these units come with? Is it transferrable to second owner? (this unit is 2 years old).

3. I have a Classe CA-300 amp and will need to connect the trigger plug from the D2 to the Classe. I was wondering if anyone here has same amp and what kind of cable is needed. I currently have a lexicon MC-1 which uses a DIN- type connector (at the Mc-1 end) for the trigger. (Perhaps I can buy an adaptor DIN-female on one side to whatever the D2 uses on the other).

4. Does the ARC software work with a Mac computer?

5. How much does it cost to upgrade to D2V? Is it worth it?


One more question: I have a Logitech Transporter that I use to play music stored in my computer on my audio system. What is the preferred method of connecting the Transporter to the Anthem?


Thanks to all for your comments!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16391476
> 
> 
> After reading many of the posts here about the Anthem processor, I have decided to take the plunge and purchase a used D2 with ARC.
> 
> 
> The unit is 2 years old and has been upgraded to software version 1.33. I understand that it is still under warranty and that it is upgradable to the D2V.
> 
> 
> A few questions:
> 
> 1. Is 1.33 the latest software? If not, how difficult is it to upgrade to newest version? Do I have to pay extra for the upgrade?
> 
> 2. How many years warranty do these units come with? Is it transferrable to second owner? (this unit is 2 years old).
> 
> 3. I have a Classe CA-300 amp and will need to connect the trigger plug from the D2 to the Classe. I was wondering if anyone here has same amp and what kind of cable is needed. I currently have a lexicon MC-1 which uses a DIN- type connector (at the Mc-1 end) for the trigger. (Perhaps I can buy an adaptor DIN-female on one side to whatever the D2 uses on the other).
> 
> 4. Does the ARC software work with a Mac computer?
> 
> 5. How much does it cost to upgrade to D2V? Is it worth it?
> 
> 
> Thanks to all for your thoughts!



Welcome to the thread!


1) The latest firmware for the D2 is V1.33. A V1.34 bug fix version is in the works, but no ETA on when that will be released yet. Firmware updates are free (download from the Anthem site and install it yourself). You will need a Windows computer with a serial port to do the install. Many folks use laptops without serial ports along with a USB/Serial adapter. The firmware install is not difficult and a takes about 15 minutes. There are some instructions you need to follow carefully -- in particular the instruction to make sure you have no powered HDMI connections while doing the install. See the first post of this thread for some post links discussing installs.


NOTE: You'll hear us talking about V2.04 firmware in this thread as well. That's the latest firmware for the AVM 50v and D2v processors. Also, the latest ARC version (for all processors) is V2.1 at the moment. Updating your ARC software is also free (download from the Anthem site).


2) The Anthem processors come with 3 different warranties in North America: 3 years on audio components, 2 years on video components, and 1 year on the remote. The warranty is *NOT* transferable if you buy the unit used *UNLESS* you buy the used unit from an authorized Anthem dealer. Please note that if you purchase the D2 -> D2v upgrade, the new parts put in as part of the upgrade get new warranties (of the same duration as above) which apply to you, the purchaser of the upgrade, even if you bought your D2 used. International warranties are handled differently, so if you need info on that, give Anthem a call.


3) The D2 uses a mini-mono jack for its triggers -- the sort of thing that is sold for connecting mono audio devices at places like Radio Shack. If needed, buy a mono to mono cable from radio shack and cut the plug off one end to attach the wires to whatever your amp uses.


4) The ARC setup application runs on Windows XP or later. Mac users will need a Windows environment. I run ARC, and also my firmware installs, using Windows XP in the BootCamp environment on a MacBook laptop with a Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter. Other folks have reported success using the VMWare Fusion environment and a Belkin USB/Serial adapter.


5) The D2 -> D2v upgrade program has not yet started. The current expectation is that it will begin in June. Anthem has not committed to the upgrade pricing yet. Guesses range from $1500 to $3000 with most people leaning towards the higher guess at the moment. To do the upgrade you will need to ship your D2 to Anthem in Canada. Whether it is worth it to you is awfully hard to predict. I switched from a D2 to a D2v and was surprised at how much improvement I found in both audio and video.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

Bob,

Thank you for your reply! You are the man!


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16391564
> 
> 
> Welcome to the thread!
> 
> 
> 3) The D2 uses a mini-mono jack for its triggers -- the sort of thing that is sold for connecting mono audio devices at places like Radio Shack. If needed, buy a mono to mono cable from radio shack and cut the plug off one end to attach the wires to whatever your amp uses.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Radio Shack actually sells a mini-mono cable that is the male plug at one end and tinned bare wire at the other. I think it is 6-feet. If you need longer, they also sell a M/F extension cables in a 6-feet length. I think they also sell a M/M cable in 6-feet length. This should cover what you will need.


Mike


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16385230
> 
> 
> Make sure you are running the installed version of the ARC application -- the one in Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction -- and not any other copy that might be on your computer as for example in a folder you download from the Anthem site. Only the installed version will see the licensing/calibration files correctly.
> 
> --Bob



Hey, Bob!


Speaking of ARC, why no OS X support? Windows is sooooo 1990s....










Seriously, though, everything I own is Apple, and there are many like me out there. What gives?


Mike


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16394569
> 
> 
> Hey, Bob!
> 
> 
> Speaking of ARC, why no OS X support? Windows is sooooo 1990s....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, though, everything I own is Apple, and there are many like me out there. What gives?
> 
> 
> Mike



And who owns a MAC that does not run Windows????


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16376615
> 
> 
> Double check that the bars you are seeing are actually being generated by the AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> To do that, go into Setup > Video Output and temporarily set Letterbox to something other than Black.
> 
> 
> It is possible the bars you are seeing are either in the content already or are being added by the source device.
> 
> 
> What source device are you using for this?
> 
> --Bob



Oops! Yep, the Motorola cable box was set to 4:3.







All better now! Thanks!


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16394616
> 
> 
> And who owns a MAC that does not run Windows????



I (my family) have 2 iMacs and 1 Mac Mini that I use for Music/HT only usage and none of them have a Windows partition. They are as fast today as the day I bought them.


For windows apps I use a Dell laptop (work machine) and an old (5 years) Sony desktop, both of which have progressively slowed


The reason I changed to a Mac was NOT to have machines with windows, so why would I run windows on it?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16396192
> 
> 
> so why would I run windows on it?



For the Same Reason people climb mountains










Because they can


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16396192
> 
> 
> The reason I changed to a Mac was NOT to have machines with windows, so why would I run windows on it?



To run software that only runs in Windows?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16388717
> 
> 
> -6db = more or less efficient? I've got PDigm Signature S6/C5/S2/ADP3.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16388522
> 
> 
> It probably depends on the efficiency of your speakers
> 
> attached to your amplifier as to whether or not you need -6db



If I understand correctly, and occasionally I do, the 0 or -6db setting is dependant on what connections you use between your pre/pro and amp. For s/e rca type connections use 0db. For balanced connections use the -6db setting. This is to compensate for the +6db put out thru the balanced connections.

Bob, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Tom


----------



## scanido




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16381482
> 
> 
> If you can't disable the room correction in the Fathom, then set it up as best you can and AFTER it is set up do your ARC Measurements so that ARC hears the corrected output from the Fathom.
> 
> 
> But if you can disable the room correction in the Fathom, do that first (along with turning off any internal crossover it has) -- then Meausre for ARC with it off. Let ARC do all the work -- and see if you can get all the correction you need that way. No need to layer processing stages if you don't have to.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


I too have a JL FATHOM. What about the phase control? Does the ARC software configure this? Should I be setting the sub to 180 or 0 degrees?


Thanks again!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16401121
> 
> 
> If I understand correctly, and occasionally I do, the 0 or -6db setting is dependant on what connections you use between your pre/pro and amp. For s/e rca type connections use 0db. For balanced connections use the -6db setting. This is to compensate for the +6db put out thru the balanced connections.
> 
> Bob, please correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> Tom



The 6dB difference is standard for XLR vs. RCA connections.


Many amps that have both types of input will account for this by default, or will have a switch selection for the XLR inputs that you use if you are hooking up an RCA to XLR adapter for whatever reason.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/16401300
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I too have a JL FATHOM. What about the phase control? Does the ARC software configure this? Should I be setting the sub to 180 or 0 degrees?
> 
> 
> Thanks again!



You must set Phase and Polarity manually for your subwoofer. ARC doesn't set that for you since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time. See the setup post links collected in the first post of this thread for some guidance on setting Phase and Polarity.


If you have only one sub, you can set Phase/Polarity either using the the controls in the Anthem or in your sub, and you can do this either before or after doing your ARC setup. Your bass will just work better once you get it right.


If you have more than one sub, you must set phase and polarity separately for each sub using the controls in the sub (since the Anthem doesn't offer separate settings for more than one sub), and you must do this BEFORE doing your ARC Measurements as ARC will hear all of your subs playing together.


You must also manually set your speaker distances. This can be done before or after doing ARC Measurements.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16396192
> 
> 
> I (my family) have 2 iMacs and 1 Mac Mini that I use for Music/HT only usage and none of them have a Windows partition. They are as fast today as the day I bought them.
> 
> 
> For windows apps I use a Dell laptop (work machine) and an old (5 years) Sony desktop, both of which have progressively slowed
> 
> 
> The reason I changed to a Mac was NOT to have machines with windows, so why would I run windows on it?



A number of folks have purchased an inexpensive Windows laptop to use with the Anthem software. Personally, I think BootCamp (or Fusion) plus a retail copy of Windows XP is a better way to go.


It is unlikely Anthem will take the time to port their installation apps to the Mac any time soon.

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16401794
> 
> 
> A number of folks have purchased an inexpensive Windows laptop to use with the Anthem software. Personally, I think BootCamp (or Fusion) plus a retail copy of Windows XP is a better way to go.
> 
> 
> It is unlikely Anthem will take the time to port their installation apps to the Mac any time soon.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I understand you point about Anthem not porting their installation to Macs and to be honest I don't expect them to.


I would just prefer not to encumber my Macs with Windows and all the anti-virus related software that they want us to use (Norton software just made one of my Windows machines unusable and I had to do a clean wipe of the hard drive and Windows reinstall). I have tried many of them on Windows machines and all they seem to do is slow down all operations


For me I would rather just use a Windows computer that I do not care too much about for updating my D1 & Arc (which I hope at some time might be upgraded to a D1-2v) and leave my Macs as Macs. Each to their own though, that is the great thing about choices.


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16402237
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I understand you point about Anthem not porting their installation to Macs and to be honest I don't expect them to.
> 
> 
> I would just prefer not to encumber my Macs with Windows and all the anti-virus related software that they want us to use (Norton software just made one of my Windows machines unusable and I had to do a clean wipe of the hard drive and Windows reinstall). I have tried many of them on Windows machines and all they seem to do is slow down all operations
> 
> 
> For me I would rather just use a Windows computer that I do not care too much about for updating my D1 & Arc (which I hope at some time might be upgraded to a D1-2v) and leave my Macs as Macs. Each to their own though, that is the great thing about choices.



Thanks for the support on this, Mike!










I agree: I bought my Macs to be used as Macs. Using them to run a slower, buggier OS seems a silly thing to do. Not a huge deal, though. I was just wondering because I found it kind of surprising. I'll use VMWare Fusion to run ARC.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16402570
> 
> 
> I'll use VMWare Fusion to run ARC.



Be aware that we've had several reports the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter doesn't work with ARC under the Fusion environment.


The Belkin F5U409-CU USB/Serial adapter is the one to us if you choose Fusion.


The Keyspan adapter works fine using BootCamp -- that's the way I'm doing it.


-----------------------------------


ETA: I'd like to do everything without using Windows as well, but realistically, it isn't going to happen.

--Bob


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16401776
> 
> 
> You must set Phase and Polarity manually for your subwoofer. ARC doesn't set that for you since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time. See the setup post links collected in the first post of this thread for some guidance on setting Phase and Polarity.
> 
> --Bob



Hmm. Does this mean that ARC will not detect any phase issues, say if your center is out of phase with your left and right fronts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16402903
> 
> 
> Hmm. Does this mean that ARC will not detect any phase issues, say if your center is out of phase with your left and right fronts?



Correct, it will not.


If you have one or more speakers with the wires reversed, ARC will not notice -- again because it only listens to one speaker at a time.


You will need to check for this yourself using one of the speaker wiring (phase) tests commonly found on calibration discs. These test are easy to use. They send out alternating periods of sound that is in-phase for a pair of speakers and then 180 degrees out of phase. The in-phase portion should sound like a focussed ball of sound between those two speakers. The out of phase portion should sound diffuse -- hard to localize. If what you hear is backwards then you need to reverse the wiring on one (not both) of those two speakers.


Typically the test will walk you through the speakers in pairs and tell you which one to reverse next if you have a problem. By the time you've gone through the complete cycle, following these instructions, all speakers are wired up correctly. Just run through the cycle a second time to confirm.


Of course if you've been careful with the +/- or Red/White polarity in wiring your speakers in the first place, odds are there's nothing you'll have to change when you go through this test.


This is easy and something you only have to do once even if you shift speaker positions (presuming you don't fiddle with their wires). I.e., not nearly as tricky as setting up proper phase for a subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## dltriumph

I have been up and down this fine site looking for something that may help me with my problem. With no luck here we go with my first post. With my Anthem I have a large difference in volume with 5.1 and anolog stations. I have checked with my menue screen and still I can't resolve it. I am using a Comcast Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300 Hd dvr box and as I have said with 5.1 no problem. I recently contacted Nick at Anthem and this is what he surgested.

"That's surprising because it's usually stereo broadcasts that blast out of the speakers relative to the average level of 5.1 material with plenty of dynamic range.


During times when the volume is too low what's displayed when pressing the Fronts button? If not 0 dB, raise accordingly. An easy way to clear all on-the-fly adjustments is to go to setup menu 13, save user settings (be sure to press Select after changing No to Yes at the "are you sure" prompt), load defaults, then load user settings. The menus will be as they were.


If the above is not the cause:


Does the box or TV tuner have a dynamic range (or volume range) control? If so does adjusting it make a difference? Are there options for outputting Dolby vs PCM?"

I have tried this with no luck. If any of you Anthem owners have had this problem and resolved it please pass it along to me. I am sure there is some adjustment with the fine unit I am missing. Sorry I missed placed my post, this site is very huge.

Thanks very much.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dltriumph* /forum/post/16404160
> 
> 
> I have been up and down this fine site looking for something that may help me with my problem. With no luck here we go with my first post. With my Anthem I have a large difference in volume with 5.1 and anolog stations. I have checked with my menue screen and still I can't resolve it. I am using a Comcast Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300 Hd dvr box and as I have said with 5.1 no problem.



We have a number of 8300 users posting here and that box is known to come with a bunch of issues, but I don't recall reading about a serious volume difference between analog and digital stations.


The first thing I'd suggest is that you go into the menus in the 8300 and check to be sure there isn't a volume setting you need to adjust -- it might be labeled something like "stereo level". Typically, adjusting that would only affect analog audio. The menu may be a "hidden" menu -- for example, one that you can only get to by first turning off the box.


I don't use an 8300 myself so perhaps some who do can chime in here.


How do you have your 8300 connected to the Anthem for audio and video?


Most folks have reported best success from the 8300 using Component cables for video (3 cables) and an optical digital cable for audio. Typically this would mean you then need to set the cable box to output "bitstream" for audio and not PCM. Again, some of the 8300 users here may have details for you.

--Bob


----------



## dltriumph

Bob right now the only connection from my box to the Anthem is an hdmi cable. I did try to get into the box menue. Nothing I could find as you say.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dltriumph* /forum/post/16404634
> 
> 
> Bob right now the only connection from my box to the Anthem is an hdmi cable. I did try to get into the box menue. Nothing I could find as you say.



Well let's wait for some of the 8300 users to respond.


In the interim, you might want to try switching audio to an optical digital cable. You'll get identical quality audio that way and just might bypass whatever is causing your volume problem. There's really nothing you can set wrong in the AVM 50 that would account for what you've described.

--Bob


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16403034
> 
> 
> Correct, it will not.
> 
> 
> If you have one or more speakers with the wires reversed, ARC will not notice -- again because it only listens to one speaker at a time.



Thanks. I've been a bit lazy over the years with my wiring so I'm not 100% sure that my speaker phase is correct all the way around. I guess I'll have to test my connections when I install my D2V in a few weeks.


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16402682
> 
> 
> Be aware that we've had several reports the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter doesn't work with ARC under the Fusion environment.
> 
> 
> The Belkin F5U409-CU USB/Serial adapter is the one to us if you choose Fusion.
> 
> 
> The Keyspan adapter works fine using BootCamp -- that's the way I'm doing it.
> 
> 
> --Bob



My USB to serial adaptor is made by Trendnet. It is called the Medianet TU-S9. Any feedback on that with Fusion?


----------



## Michael_V

All right, I'm trying to use the 12V trigger to turn on my Bryston 9B-ST amp when I turn on MAIN. I have set the Bryston to REMOTE. I connected the bare wires from a mono audio cable to the Bryston's trigger terminals and plugged the other end into first TRIGGER 1 (50mA) and then (after that failed) TRIGGER 3 (200mA) on the Anthem. I enabled all triggers in the Anthem and set MAIN to * in Trigger 1 and then Trigger 3. When connected to Trigger 1, my amp does nothing. From Trigger 3, it only turns on for a few seconds and then turns right back off and stays that way.







Any ideas???


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16405673
> 
> 
> My USB to serial adaptor is made by Trendnet. It is called the Medianet TU-S9. Any feedback on that with Fusion?



Not yet. Let us know how it goes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16405691
> 
> 
> All right, I'm trying to use the 12V trigger to turn on my Bryston 9B-ST amp when I turn on MAIN. I have set the Bryston to REMOTE. I connected the bare wires from a mono audio cable to the Bryston's trigger terminals and plugged the other end into first TRIGGER 1 (50mA) and then (after that failed) TRIGGER 3 (200mA) on the Anthem. I enabled all triggers in the Anthem and set MAIN to * in Trigger 1 and then Trigger 3. When connected to Trigger 1, my amp does nothing. From Trigger 3, it only turns on for a few seconds and then turns right back off and stays that way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas???



Some devices care about the polarity of the 12 volt trigger. Check the manual on yours. If necessary reverse the wires.


The Anthem puts out a continuous voltage on the trigger. Some devices expect a pulse: The first pulse turns them on, the next turns them off. Check the manual on yours. Often you can switch a pulse triggered device to expect a continuous voltage trigger.

--Bob


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

Help . I was going to buy a avm50v . Then i have offered to me a d2 for half the price of dealer cost . Then i need to upgrade , when avaiable by anthem , to the d2v . Is the d2v the way to go i have read raves about it . It seems i would break even on the purchase of either one , cost . Any input please.


Bert


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/16407033
> 
> 
> Help . I was going to buy a avm50v . Then i have offered to me a d2 for half the price of dealer cost . Then i need to upgrade , when avaiable by anthem , to the d2v . Is the d2v the way to go i have read raves about it . It seems i would break even on the purchase of either one , cost . Any input please.
> 
> 
> Bert



Bert,


There is less difference now between the D2V and AVM50V than there was at one time between the D2 and AVM50. That is because they all now have the same processesing power.


What the Statement line offers is upconversion of all signals to 234bit/192Hz and processing with this upconverted signal in the preamplifier. What this results in is a very low background noise level across the frequency spectrum introduced by the processing itself and so the noise floor is very low and hence the dynamic range is better. All processing introduces errors (noise), the higher the sampling rate the fewer the errors (in the audible range) and so in theory the better the sound.


The question is can you tell the difference? It is subtle, but my belief is yes you can tell the difference. The Statement offers analog pass through, but with the quality of the upsampling and processing the end product is as good whether you use the pass through or allow the Statement to carry out DSP on the analog signal and then DAC. IMHO you would be hard pressed to tell the difference between the direrct and processed sound.


This is what the Statement offeres over the AVM, you will get many opinions as to it's worth. But whatever choice you make I can tell you that you are getting a world class product.


One thing to point out is that if you get the D2, it might be a while before you can do the upgrade since there is already quite a line of people and still no date as to when it will be offered. The other downside is that once you get it installed and start running ARC, you will not want to loose it for the two to three weeks to get it upgraded!!


Mike


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16406800
> 
> 
> Some devices care about the polarity of the 12 volt trigger. Check the manual on yours. If necessary reverse the wires.
> 
> 
> The Anthem puts out a continuous voltage on the trigger. Some devices expect a pulse: The first pulse turns them on, the next turns them off. Check the manual on yours. Often you can switch a pulse triggered device to expect a continuous voltage trigger.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob!


My Bryston manual makes no mention of pulse vs continous voltage, but I will see what I can find out. There are only two switches on the back: LOCAL vs REMOTE and AUTO vs MANUAL (for LOCAL). For kicks, I tried both AUTO and MANUAL with no effect. I will try reversing the wires tonight. If it is a pulse voltage issue, I guess I am out of luck unless/until Anthem puts in an option to switch between the two in a future firmware update.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16407429
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob!
> 
> 
> My Bryston manual makes no mention of pulse vs continous voltage, but I will see what I can find out. There are only two switches on the back: LOCAL vs REMOTE and AUTO vs MANUAL (for LOCAL). For kicks, I tried both AUTO and MANUAL with no effect. I will try reversing the wires tonight. If it is a pulse voltage issue, I guess I am out of luck unless/until Anthem puts in an option to switch between the two in a future firmware update.



Does AUTO on the Bryston equate to auto signal detection? If the triggers are not detecting it, couldn't you use that? It's not ideal but could be a work around. I bet MANUAL means that you physically have to turn the amp on. For AUTO you might have to switch it on manually the first time and then if it does not receive a signal it will auto swich off and then back on when it detects a signal.


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16404828
> 
> 
> Well let's wait for some of the 8300 users to respond.
> 
> 
> In the interim, you might want to try switching audio to an optical digital cable. You'll get identical quality audio that way and just might bypass whatever is causing your volume problem. There's really nothing you can set wrong in the AVM 50 that would account for what you've described.
> 
> --Bob



I have used various versions of the 8300 for years, pvr included. Every one of them has had volume discrepencies between the analog and hd channels. Analog being very LOUD in comparison to HD. There is no adjustment for this that I am aware of, and it occurs over digital coax and hdmi (I have never connected using analog rca). I just turn the volume down when I watch the analog feeds... which is normally just for the local news.


Maybe the Dolby Volume solution will do this automatically when it arrives via software, but I guess I'm just used to riding the volume control. Commercials are still insanely loud no matter what feed you're watching, for instance.


----------



## scanido

Does the AVM50 do any upconversion of the incoming signals?


Also, from an aesthetics point of view, can the side rack mounts on the D2V be removed and make it look like an AVM50?


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16407770
> 
> 
> I have used various versions of the 8300 for years, pvr included. Every one of them has had volume discrepencies between the analog and hd channels. Analog being very LOUD in comparison to HD. There is no adjustment for this that I am aware of, and it occurs over digital coax and hdmi (I have never connected using analog rca). I just turn the volume down when I watch the analog feeds... which is normally just for the local news.
> 
> 
> Maybe the Dolby Volume solution will do this automatically when it arrives via software, but I guess I'm just used to riding the volume control. Commercials are still insanely loud no matter what feed you're watching, for instance.



Most cable providers are in the process of converting everything to digital. I'm at the point with Cablevision that I don't need to watch analog any more, so the only thing I have to deal with is the occasional obnoxious commercial.


What would be a nice thing for Dolby Volume or Anthem to include in their next firmware would be automatic muting of a stereo or mono signal that is above a threshold percentage of the average volume level. Obnoxious commercial - blammo - silence.


People would seriously pay for this.


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16407568
> 
> 
> Does AUTO on the Bryston equate to auto signal detection? If the triggers are not detecting it, couldn't you use that? It's not ideal but could be a work around. I bet MANUAL means that you physically have to turn the amp on. For AUTO you might have to switch it on manually the first time and then if it does not receive a signal it will auto swich off and then back on when it detects a signal.



Mike,


I did briefly experiment with AUTO last night by engaging it (with the amp ON) and then turning the Anthem off and then on again. No response, though. I'll try again tonight.


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16407429
> 
> 
> My Bryston manual makes no mention of pulse vs continous voltage, but I will see what I can find out. There are only two switches on the back: LOCAL vs REMOTE and AUTO vs MANUAL (for LOCAL). For kicks, I tried both AUTO and MANUAL with no effect. I will try reversing the wires tonight. If it is a pulse voltage issue, I guess I am out of luck unless/until Anthem puts in an option to switch between the two in a future firmware update.



Bob,


Here is the reply I got from Bryston Tech Support:


"Yes that is what they say [12V continuous] but is your actual unit doing what its suppose to? You will need to put a volt meter across the terminals to verify it. Or another approach to verify the Bryston is working as it to use some other kind of supply to see if it responds the same way. These tigger circuits have proven to be extremely reliable so I suspect the supply voltage is most likely your issue."


All right, so for the sake of discussion, is there any possibility my AVM50v isn't sending continuous voltage?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16408562
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Here is the reply I got from Bryston Tech Support:
> 
> 
> "Yes that is what they say [12V continuous] but is your actual unit doing what its suppose to? You will need to put a volt meter across the terminals to verify it. Or another approach to verify the Bryston is working as it to use some other kind of supply to see if it responds the same way. These tigger circuits have proven to be extremely reliable so I suspect the supply voltage is most likely your issue."
> 
> 
> All right, so for the sake of discussion, is there any possibility my AVM50v isn't sending continuous voltage?



No. The only trigger available from the AVM 50v is continuous voltage.


If you measure and find there is no voltage being generated on the trigger output you either have a setup error or you have a faulty cable -- perhaps the plug not fully inserted.


Make sure you are using the correct jacks. The Trigger output jacks are the mini-mono jacks located just to the left of the RS-232 socket when you face the back of the Anthem. Do not use a cable with a stereo plug as it won't make proper electrical contact in the jack.


In Setup > Triggers make sure All Triggers Enabled is set.


You described putting the "*" in the appropriate row, but make sure it is also in the appropriate column of the table.


And keep in mind that the changes you make to the Trigger table don't actually take effect until you exit the Setup menu.


So get an inexpensive DC voltmeter from Radio Shack and measure the Trigger output on the Bryston end of your trigger cable.


One last thing to check. Some triggerable devices have a trigger daisy-chain output as well as the input -- used to let you chain multiple amps all on one trigger. To get the trigger to work you need to terminate the chain. Often this is done by putting a wire across the output so that the signal comes in the input, goes to the output, crosses the wire, and goes back to the input and then back to the source. Check your Bryston manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/16407945
> 
> 
> Does the AVM50 do any upconversion of the incoming signals?
> 
> 
> Also, from an aesthetics point of view, can the side rack mounts on the D2V be removed and make it look like an AVM50?



The AVM 50 processes and scales S-video, Component and HDMI video inputs. Its video solution is identical to what is found in the D2. The same is true about the video solution found in the newer AVM 50v compared to the newer D2v.


The AVM 50 processes, but does not upsample, digital audio inputs. The same is true of the newer AVM 50v.


The standard "wing handles" on the D2v are decorative -- they are not intended as rack mount attachments.


The D2v can be ordered in a version where those are replaced by rack mount attachments or in a version without anything on the sides. These styles generally add some time to the order lead time.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

On my samsung BR player should I select bistream(audiophile) or pcm to the AVM50 (hdmi connection). I tried both settings and it sounded the same?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16409731
> 
> 
> On my samsung BR player should I select bistream(audiophile) or pcm to the AVM50 (hdmi connection). I tried both settings and it sounded the same?



Bitstream will get you the lossy "compatibility" tracks from Blu-Ray discs.


LPCM will get you the lossless tracks IF the player is able to decode those, otherwise you will also get the lossy tracks.


So if you have a decoding player, LPCM is definitely what you want with the older AVM 50.


Also look for a setting in the player to turn off secondary audio mixing (when you don't actually need it) as having that on may also cause the player to only use the lossy compatibility tracks.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16409958
> 
> 
> Bitstream will get you the lossy "compatibility" tracks from Blu-Ray discs.
> 
> 
> LPCM will get you the lossless tracks IF the player is able to decode those, otherwise you will also get the lossy tracks.
> 
> 
> So if you have a decoding player, LPCM is definitely what you want with the older AVM 50.
> 
> 
> Also look for a setting in the player to turn off secondary audio mixing (when you don't actually need it) as having that on may also cause the player to only use the lossy compatibility tracks.
> 
> --Bob



when I flipped back and forth between settings on Samsung BD-P3600, I was testing player with Wall E. The Avm50 displayed PLIIx movie with PCM setting and DTS matrix with bitstream setting.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16359592
> 
> 
> By the way, 480p (not 480i) is the "simplest" signal for HDMI to carry.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Does this mean it will not carry 480i? I thought my Pioneer 79 was passing 480i thru HDMI to the D2.

Thank you.

Ben


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16409731
> 
> 
> On my samsung BR player should I select bistream(audiophile) or pcm to the AVM50 (hdmi connection). I tried both settings and it sounded the same?



It *is* the same (I'm assuming you meant 50v?). Conventional wisdom says to set it to LPCM, so if you want to listen to secondary audio tracks it can mix them with the HD audio from the main track (this is impossible with bitstream).


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16410273
> 
> 
> It *is* the same (I'm assuming you meant 50v?). Conventional wisdom says to set it to LPCM, so if you want to listen to secondary audio tracks it can mix them with the HD audio from the main track (this is impossible with bitstream).



I have it set that way with my AVM50v but I was referring to my another HT which I'm using AVM50. I was just a little confused because when set to pcm the anthem didn't display DTS. which Wall E is in DTS. switched to bitstream -audiophile(there are two different bitstream setting in the Samsung) and anthem displayed DTS matrix.


Manual from Samsung claims to use bitstream audiophile if my connection hdmi 1.3a. I always thought to set it to PCM


----------



## Donloz




ehlarson said:


> Most cable providers are in the process of converting everything to digital. I'm at the point with Cablevision that I don't need to watch analog any more, so the only thing I have to deal with is the occasional obnoxious commercial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It maybe as easy to say; If you are a ROGERS user, their calibration at their HEADEND, is as good as their idiot installers. Have you ever seen a ground install to a gas pipe. Only a ROGERS installer could do this. I have a 20 db swing on some channels. GO ROGERS GO


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/16410067
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Does this mean it will not carry 480i? I thought my Pioneer 79 was passing 480i thru HDMI to the D2.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Ben



No. It just means that HDMI 480i is trickier to implement than HDMI 480p for technical reasons that you probably don't care about. That's why some HDMI devices punt and don't even try to support HDMI 480i (e.g., the PS3).


Your Pioneer DV-79avi SD-DVD player does HDMI 480i to the D2 just fine.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16410458
> 
> 
> I have it set that way with my AVM50v but I was referring to my another HT which I'm using AVM50. I was just a little confused because when set to pcm the anthem didn't display DTS. which Wall E is in DTS. switched to bitstream -audiophile(there are two different bitstream setting in the Samsung) and anthem displayed DTS matrix.
> 
> 
> Manual from Samsung claims to use bitstream audiophile if my connection hdmi 1.3a. I always thought to set it to PCM



When set to LPCM output, the player decodes the traditional DTS track to LPCM. The AVM 50 sees LPCM and has no way to know what it was before the player did the decoding. That's why the DTS light doesn't come on in the AVM 50.


For traditional DD and DTS tracks you can use either HDMI bitstream (decode in the Anthem) or HDMI LPCM (decode in the player) with the AVM 50. There is no difference.


For the new lossless tracks from Blu-Ray discs (TrueHD and DTS-HD MA) you must use a player that can decode those to LPCM and you must set the player to HDMI LPCM output for the AVM 50. Otherwise the Blu-Ray player will automatically switch to using the lower quality, lossy, "core" or "associated" compatibility track -- basically a traditional DD5.1 or DTS track -- which is on disc for just such compatibility purposes.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

Thanks bob,


i'll switch settings back to pcm for the avm50. Is it different for the avm50v?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16411697
> 
> 
> Thanks bob,
> 
> 
> i'll switch settings back to pcm for the avm50. Is it different for the avm50v?



The AVM 50v also offers the option to do its own decoding of HDMI Bitstreams for the lossless TrueHD and DTS-HD MA tracks.


Some players can't decode and only allow bitstream output of those tracks -- such players make no sense to pair with the AVM 50 but can be used with the AVM 50v. Some players can decode and DON'T allow bitstream output of those tracks -- use them via HDMI LPCM with either the AVM 50 or AVM 50v (the PS3 is the most prominent example of this type). Some players can neither decode nor bitstream DTS-HD MA tracks in particular -- and thus your only option is to listen to the lossy, "core" DTS track if you play a disc that uses DTS-HD MA. If you buy a player like that your best choice is to replace it.


Me recommendation is that you get a player that does a proper job of decoding those tracks and use HDMI LPCM output. The PS3 does that, as does the new Oppo BDP-83. The BDP-83 also bitstreams (to the AVM 50v or D2v).

--Bob


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/16410866
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16408029
> 
> 
> Most cable providers are in the process of converting everything to digital. I'm at the point with Cablevision that I don't need to watch analog any more, so the only thing I have to deal with is the occasional obnoxious commercial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It maybe as easy to say; If you are a ROGERS user, their calibration at their HEADEND, is as good as their idiot installers. Have you ever seen a ground install to a gas pipe. Only a ROGERS installer could do this. I have a 20 db swing on some channels. GO ROGERS GO
Click to expand...


I share your pain. I have grounding problems too. I had to put an isolation transformer in my cable line to kill a nasty ground loop.


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16387018
> 
> 
> Most Windows users posting here have had the best luck with the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter, available from Amazon among other places.
> 
> 
> When you get it, go to the Keyspan support site and verify that the device driver that came in the package is the latest driver for 64-bit Vista. If not, download and install the newer driver.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I got the Keyspan. Downloaded the latest Vista 64 bit drivers and when I went to plug the Keyspan into the back of my Anthem it wouldn't fit. Do I need an adapter for the Keyspan to fit into the Anthem? If so what kind?


----------



## greyflag

I just did this with my AVM50. Purchase a male/female serial cable. Unscrew the 5 sided nuts from the male end of the Keyspan and connect the female end of the serial cable to it. Connect the female end of the cable to the processor. Voila! Actually, I was baffled by this (not hard to do with me) as well when I tried to get the Keyspan to connect to connect to the processor.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/16413593
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I got the Keyspan. Downloaded the latest Vista 64 bit drivers and when I went to plug the Keyspan into the back of my Anthem it wouldn't fit. Do I need an adapter for the Keyspan to fit into the Anthem? If so what kind?



Plug the Keyspan into the USB port of your computer. Run a "straight through" serial cable (pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9 with no pair swapped) from the Keyspan to the back of your Anthem.


I leave the serial cable permanently attached to the back of my D2v -- coiled neatly out of the way when I'm not using it.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16411525
> 
> 
> No. It just means that HDMI 480i is trickier to implement than HDMI 480p for technical reasons that you probably don't care about. That's why some HDMI devices punt and don't even try to support HDMI 480i (e.g., the PS3).
> 
> 
> Your Pioneer DV-79avi SD-DVD player does HDMI 480i to the D2 just fine.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, Bob, that's good enough for me. Thanks. Maybe that's the reason why my Denon 5910 does not pass 480i thru HDMI.


On another matter, I was just trying to set the CD input source in the D2 from RCA digital to HDMI connection but could not get it working for some time, and the display keep showing "Analog-DSP" input. While in the Setup Menu, upon selecting "Dig HDMI" for Audio In, the sound came thru, but upon exiting the menu, there was only silence.


Finally, as a last resort, I changed Scaler Input from "None" to "HDMI", even though I wasn't intending to use this source for video. Didn't quite make sense to me, but it worked. Wish the manual had mentioned this.

Ben


----------



## netroamer

I recently did a complete firmware wipe of my D2 to evaluate if a wipe and reload would make the HDMI handshake problems I've been having improve. That did work to a small degree.


The puzzlement came when I used the internal calibration tone to first balance the speaker output. To achieve the 75db level with the sub-woofer, I used its' volume control.


When I ran ARC, it could not complete the sweep sequence due to low sub-woofer output. I raised the SW output volume, in small increments, a few time to finally get it to finish the cycle on the first position. It completed the rest without a problem.


When I uploaded ARC to the processor to analyze speaker levels, ARC set the SW level to -5.5db. It struck me as odd that it would error out due to low volume and then cut the SW output.


Doing a forum search did not come up with a similar problem.


Anyone else have the same issue?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/16414766
> 
> 
> Finally, as a last resort, I changed Scaler Input from "None" to "HDMI", even though I wasn't intending to use this source for video. Didn't quite make sense to me, but it worked. Wish the manual had mentioned this.
> 
> Ben



Hmmm, I thought the firmware wouldn't let you select Digital HDMI for audio unless you had previously selected HDMI video to go to the scaler?


But perhaps there's a glitch if you are sending "None" to the scaler. Apparently so if you heard audio while fiddling with that in the Setup menu.


Yes, HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of the HDMI video. That means the HDMI video has to be processed by the Anthem before it can see the HDMI audio embedded inside it.


Note that the audio setting is just "Dig HDMI", i.e., without specifying WHICH HDMI input is to be used. The choice of which HDMI input to use is made in the Scaler Input line. That's supposed to be the clue that you have to set both.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/16416130
> 
> 
> I recently did a complete firmware wipe of my D2 to evaluate if a wipe and reload would make the HDMI handshake problems I've been having improve. That did work to a small degree.
> 
> 
> The puzzlement came when I used the internal calibration tone to first balance the speaker output. To achieve the 75db level with the sub-woofer, I used its' volume control.
> 
> 
> When I ran ARC, it could not complete the sweep sequence due to low sub-woofer output. I raised the SW output volume a few time to finally get it to finish the cycle on the first position. It completed the rest without a problem.
> 
> 
> When I uploaded ARC to the processor to analyze speaker levels, ARC set the SW level to -5.5db. It struck me as odd that it would error out due to low volume and then cut the SW output.
> 
> 
> Doing a forum search did not come up with a similar problem.
> 
> 
> Anyone else have he same issue?



ARC uses the "Noise Level" line in Setup > Level Calibration to set the volume of its test sweep tones. [NOTE: In the AVM 50v and D2v firmware this is labeled "Test Level".]


Zero out all entries in Setup > Level Calibration. Set test mode to Manual in the first line. Scroll down to Noise Level and adjust it to yield roughly 75dB SPL (sound will be coming from the LF speaker). Now scroll down to either subwoofer line -- which will still be at 0dB. Leave that line at 0dB (and also leave Noise Level where you just set it) and adjust the volume knob built into your subwoofer to yield roughly 75dB SPL.


Exit Setup and go do your ARC Measurements. Only the Noise Level line and the volume knob setting on your subwoofer matters. This is why you don't have to redo this stuff for subsequent ARC Measurements. The speaker volume trims ARC Uploads from prior setups will just be ignored when you do your next Measurement.


If ARC has trouble hearing the audio from the subwoofer at any given mic location, just tell it to retry a time or two.


If it STILL can't hear the subwoofer properly, don't raise the volume knob in the subwoofer. Instead exit ARC Measurements, go back into Setup > Level Calibration, and raise Noise Level a couple dB. Exit Setup and redo your ARC Measurements from the beginning.


ARC listens to a much wider frequency range than is represented by the test tones built into the Setup > Level Calibration menu. For example it goes all the way down to 5Hz for the subwoofer. If your subwoofer has an unusually wide variation in output across its frequency range, ARC may need a different volume level to help counter that. In addition, if Noise Level is not set properly, ARC may need to adjust the basic volume level of the whole solution to get the main speakers where they need to be, and then ARC will have to re-adjust the volume of the sub more than normal to correct for that.


If your room has significant room nulls or resonances in the bass frequencies, these will likely show up more at just some mic locations. That's why ARC may have trouble at one mic location and not at others even though the sub output sounds just fine to you from where you are standing while the test sweeps are happening.


Also, it is often the case that ARC will hear ambient noise in the bass frequencies during a test sweep that you can't hear. And thus ARC will tell you it needs to retry. This is much more likely to happen for the subwoofer than for the other speakers. Just tell ARC to retry.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16416236
> 
> 
> 
> Zero out all entries in Setup > Level Calibration. Set test mode to Manual in the first line. Scroll down to Noise Level and adjust it to yield roughly 75dB SPL (sound will be coming from the LF speaker). Now scroll down to either subwoofer line -- which will still be at 0dB. Leave that line at 0dB (and also leave Noise Level where you just set it) and adjust the volume knob built into your subwoofer to yield roughly 75dB SPL.



I did all the above befor the first try with ARC. If it happens with a new sweep I plan to do shortly, I will zero everything out, set the master level to achieve 75db and try to increase the SW level in the speaker level setting, as you suggested, and try again.


Thanks.


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16408562
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Here is the reply I got from Bryston Tech Support:
> 
> 
> "Yes that is what they say [12V continuous] but is your actual unit doing what its suppose to? You will need to put a volt meter across the terminals to verify it. Or another approach to verify the Bryston is working as it to use some other kind of supply to see if it responds the same way. These tigger circuits have proven to be extremely reliable so I suspect the supply voltage is most likely your issue."
> 
> 
> All right, so for the sake of discussion, is there any possibility my AVM50v isn't sending continuous voltage?



Hello Michael, I have a D2 and a Bryston 6B-SST Amp and I had "Trigger Setup Issues" and finally got it working using; (External Turn On)=External and "(POWER UP)= AUTO. Hope this helps. The Bryston settings are the culprit because they are not intuitive! Never had an issue after using these settings. John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New Version of Perfect Bass Kit (PBK) Appears on Password Protected Download Page*


A new version of Paradigm's "Perfect Bass Kit" (PBK) software, V1.02.0, has now appeared in Link 6 on Anthem's password protected download page. This is the repackaging of ARC in a subwoofer-only form for use with Paradigm's new subwoofers when they are paired with receivers or pre-amp processors that don't already have ARC.


It is not needed by anyone who has ARC on their Anthem processor as ARC already takes care of all this subwoofer stuff (and also all the other speakers) using the DSP power inside the processor itself. No additional processing (e.g., PBK) is needed inside the subwoofer.


One thing that's interesting is that there is a Microsoft Word file in there documenting the installation of the USB driver for Windows used by PBK -- presumably the way the PBK measurement and setup application talks to the PBK hardware in the subwoofer. Presumably this is an example of what folks would have to go through if Anthem replaced the serial port in the AVM 50v and D2v with a USB port for some future version of those processors.


This is apparently not needed for the ARC mic (also a USB device) because ARC builds on top of a Microsoft USB microphone device driver and audio capture framework already built into Windows XP and later.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16416132
> 
> 
> Hmmm, I thought the firmware wouldn't let you select Digital HDMI for audio unless you had previously selected HDMI video to go to the scaler?
> 
> 
> But perhaps there's a glitch if you are sending "None" to the scaler. Apparently so if you heard audio while fiddling with that in the Setup menu.
> 
> --Bob



Exactly. The firmware allowed me to select "Digital HDMI" even when "None" was set for Scaler Input. And the sound came thru immediately even while I was still in the Setup menu, stopping only upon exiting.


Maybe you could try this out on your D2v.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16416132
> 
> 
> Yes, HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of the HDMI video. That means the HDMI video has to be processed by the Anthem before it can see the HDMI audio embedded inside it.



Ah, yes, now that you mention it again, I do remember you having said it somewhere else.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16416132
> 
> 
> Note that the audio setting is just "Dig HDMI", i.e., without specifying WHICH HDMI input is to be used. The choice of which HDMI input to use is made in the Scaler Input line. That's supposed to be the clue that you have to set both.



Guess some idiotic users like yours truely lacks that intuitive quality.










Thanks

Ben


----------



## Alembicjeff

My dealer just informed me that shipment of the D2v's has been delayed further, but he was unable to tell me the length of this most recent delay. Anyone have any updated information about this latest delay?


And while I am waiting very patiently for my D2v, my OPPO BDP-83 should ship in a week or so, at least according to an email I received from them. I know that many people, including Bob Pariseau, are, or will be using this combination, and it would be great to have a link to a list of settings for both units so that users may get the most from their gear.


Another query for this knowledgeable group: has anyone confirmed that the BDP-83 upsamples DVD's at least to the same level of quality as their current standalone DVD players? I ask this because I am considering ordering another BDP-83 for a second system that lacks the reference quality upscaler in the D2v.


Thanks guys!!


Jeff.


----------



## Charlie_Phogg

I ordered a AVM-50v last weekend but changed my mind and had my dealer switch it to a D2v yesterday. He was suppose to call Anthem today and promised to check on a delivery date. If he gets anything of substance I report back tonight.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alembicjeff* /forum/post/16418236
> 
> 
> My dealer just informed me that shipment of the D2v's has been delayed further, but he was unable to tell me the length of this most recent delay. Anyone have any updated information about this latest delay?
> 
> 
> And while I am waiting very patiently for my D2v, my OPPO BDP-83 should ship in a week or so, at least according to an email I received from them. I know that many people, including Bob Pariseau, are, or will be using this combination, and it would be great to have a link to a list of settings for both units so that users may get the most from their gear.
> 
> 
> Another query for this knowledgeable group: has anyone confirmed that the BDP-83 upsamples DVD's at least to the same level of quality as their current standalone DVD players? I ask this because I am considering ordering another BDP-83 for a second system that lacks the reference quality upscaler in the D2v.
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!!
> 
> 
> Jeff.



I have a Denon 3930ci (Realta) which is one of the best stand-alone DVD players ever made, and I feel that the Oppo BDP-83 is overall very comparable. Which of the two you prefer would probably be a matter of personal taste.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alembicjeff* /forum/post/16418236
> 
> 
> My dealer just informed me that shipment of the D2v's has been delayed further, but he was unable to tell me the length of this most recent delay. Anyone have any updated information about this latest delay?
> 
> 
> And while I am waiting very patiently for my D2v, my OPPO BDP-83 should ship in a week or so, at least according to an email I received from them. I know that many people, including Bob Pariseau, are, or will be using this combination, and it would be great to have a link to a list of settings for both units so that users may get the most from their gear.
> 
> 
> Another query for this knowledgeable group: has anyone confirmed that the BDP-83 upsamples DVD's at least to the same level of quality as their current standalone DVD players? I ask this because I am considering ordering another BDP-83 for a second system that lacks the reference quality upscaler in the D2v.
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!!
> 
> 
> Jeff.



I'm currently using 1080p output from the BDP-83 for SD-DVDs and it does a great job.


I posted my BDP-83 settings here just a few days ago. There are no unusual settings need in the D2v for the BDP-83.


I suspect the order lead time on AVM 50v and D2v units is still around 60 days, but I don't have any recent info on that.

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc

I just found out that one of the D2 tweaking thread members I know quite well from a car owner's forum, and of course another one and I know each other from a car detailing forum.


I love this small world stuff. Amazing how people's lives intertwine.


Oh, and BTW, D2V has been ordered. I just decided to buy the new one and sell the the D2.


Anyone interested in a low mileage D2? Meticulously maintained. Only driven on Sunday's to church. New coating of Souveran carnouba wax after meticulous polishing with Zaino.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/16419693
> 
> 
> I just found out that one of the D2 tweaking thread members I know quite well from a car owner's forum, and of course another one and I know each other from a car detailing forum.
> 
> 
> I love this small world stuff. Amazing how people's lives intertwine.
> 
> 
> Oh, and BTW, D2V has been ordered. I just decided to buy the new one and sell the the D2.
> 
> 
> Anyone interested in a low mileage D2? Meticulously maintained. Only driven on Sunday's to church. New coating of Souveran carnouba wax after meticulous polishing with Zaino.



Hey doc!!


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

Mike


thanks for all the info . I bought the d2 , for a crushing price , only a year old . I am willing to wait for the upgrade this is the first system i have put togeather in 15 years .


Bert


----------



## spiderv6

My replacement D2v arrives tomorrow. Is there a way to download all of my settings, names, configs etc and upload it to the new one?


What about my ARC settings? Am I going to have to re-run that?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16420381
> 
> 
> My replacement D2v arrives tomorrow. Is there a way to download all of my settings, names, configs etc and upload it to the new one?
> 
> 
> What about my ARC settings? Am I going to have to re-run that?



You can use SettingsBackup utility to save and restore your Setup menu settings via a PC file.


You can use LiveVideoSettingsEditor to save and restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file.


Both of those are in the Utilities folder of the ARC V2.1 install kit.


Your new D2v will have a new serial number so you will need a new pair of licensing/calibration files to use ARC with it. Put those into Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction where your ARC application is installed (the old pair of files will already be in there). [If the new files don't come with your new D2v, give Anthem tech support a call and they can make them and email them to you.]


Your old ARC results file is keyed to the serial number of your old D2v so you won't be able to just Upload that. You will need to re-Measure and produce a new results file.

--Bob


----------



## pjpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alembicjeff* /forum/post/16418236
> 
> 
> My dealer just informed me that shipment of the D2v's has been delayed further, but he was unable to tell me the length of this most recent delay. Anyone have any updated information about this latest delay?
> 
> Thanks guys!!
> 
> 
> Jeff.



I received a D2v on Monday that I ordered at the end of March. Unfortunately, it had a loud hissing sound from the front left channel even when the volume was turned all the way down (-97 db) Switching L/R connections between the D2v and the amps confirmed the problem was in the D2v. My dealer talked to support and after some trouble shooting determined the unit was defective and they are shipping out a new unit today. Sorry if it was one that was supposed to go to you. I also hope this was a one off problem and not a problem with the current production batch. My dealer and Anthem have been very responsive to the problem so as frustrating as it has been (and such a letdown after lurking in this forum and preparing the home theater for this) I trust that Anthem will take care of me and this problem


----------



## scanido




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjpoon* /forum/post/16420574
> 
> 
> I received a D2v on Monday that I ordered at the end of March. Unfortunately, it had a loud hissing sound from the front left channel even when the volume was turned all the way down (-97 db) Switching L/R connections between the D2v and the amps confirmed the problem was in the D2v. My dealer talked to support and after some trouble shooting determined the unit was defective and they are shipping out a new unit today. Sorry if it was one that was supposed to go to you. I also hope this was a one off problem and not a problem with the current production batch. My dealer and Anthem have been very responsive to the problem so as frustrating as it has been (and such a letdown after lurking in this forum and preparing the home theater for this) I trust that Anthem will take care of me and this problem



Surprised that an issue like this didn't get picked up in their quality control. I guess there will always be one that slips away!


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/16420210
> 
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> thanks for all the info . I bought the d2 , for a crushing price , only a year old . I am willing to wait for the upgrade this is the first system i have put togeather in 15 years .
> 
> 
> Bert



Bert,


Congratulations on the D2







, I am sure you will really enjoy it despite that it does not have the latest video processor and on-board processing of the latest HD audio codecs right now. There is a school of thought that says that processing should be done on the bluray player anyway (for many reasons) and pass PCM (LPCM) to the D2. If you have not already got a bluray player and are thinking of getting one, make sure that it at least decodes the bitstream to PCM so you can pass it via HDMI to the D2. The other advantage of waiting to upgrade rather than jumping in right now is that I am sure there will be still be some "bugs" that require work.


If it did not come with ARC (room correction software and mic.) I would really invest in the extra money and get this as it truly does work wonders on correcting room problems and getting the best from your D2.


Again welcome to the comminity, IMHO it is the best one around (both this thread and the product). If you have any questions on the set-up (which is not the most intuative in the world) just ask away and I am sure that someone (probably Bob) will get back to you.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16420469
> 
> 
> You can use SettingsBackup utility to save and restore your Setup menu settings via a PC file.
> 
> 
> You can use LiveVideoSettingsEditor to save and restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file.
> 
> 
> Both of those are in the Utilities folder of the ARC V2.1 install kit.
> 
> 
> Your new D2v will have a new serial number so you will need a new pair of licensing/calibration files to use ARC with it. Put those into Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction where your ARC application is installed (the old pair of files will already be in there). [If the new files don't come with your new D2v, give Anthem tech support a call and they can make them and email them to you.]
> 
> 
> Your old ARC results file is keyed to the serial number of your old D2v so you won't be able to just Upload that. You will need to re-Measure and produce a new results file.
> 
> --Bob




Thank you sir!


I had a feeling I was going to have to re-run ARC but it gives me an excuse to move my sub down to the front of the room!


----------



## Alembicjeff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjpoon* /forum/post/16420574
> 
> 
> I received a D2v on Monday that I ordered at the end of March. Unfortunately, it had a loud hissing sound from the front left channel even when the volume was turned all the way down (-97 db) Switching L/R connections between the D2v and the amps confirmed the problem was in the D2v. My dealer talked to support and after some trouble shooting determined the unit was defective and they are shipping out a new unit today. Sorry if it was one that was supposed to go to you. I also hope this was a one off problem and not a problem with the current production batch. My dealer and Anthem have been very responsive to the problem so as frustrating as it has been (and such a letdown after lurking in this forum and preparing the home theater for this) I trust that Anthem will take care of me and this problem



My D2v wasn't ordered until April 9, and I ordered the 17" standard, non-rackmount version which I'm told takes even longer to ship, so it is unlikely that the defective unit was intended for me.


I'm with you though - I sure hope that the shipping of a defective unit by Anthem is an anomaly. In the world of audio/video enthusiasts, nothing is more emotionally devasting than setting up and turning on a brand new piece of gear only to realize that it is broken.


Jeff.


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16411789
> 
> 
> My recommendation is that you get a player that does a proper job of decoding those tracks and use HDMI LPCM output. The PS3 does that, as does the new Oppo BDP-83. The BDP-83 also bitstreams (to the AVM 50v or D2v).
> 
> --Bob



Are you saying it's preferable to allow your player to decode DTS-MA and DD-TrueHD rather than sending bitstream over HDMI and letting the AVM50v do the job? I would've thought the Anthem would do a better job than most players.







No?


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/16416376
> 
> 
> Hello Michael, I have a D2 and a Bryston 6B-SST Amp and I had "Trigger Setup Issues" and finally got it working using; (External Turn On)=External and "(POWER UP)= AUTO. Hope this helps. The Bryston settings are the culprit because they are not intuitive! Never had an issue after using these settings. John



Thanks, John! Will try those settings when I get home!


----------



## osofast240sx

Is Anthem comming out with there own Blu-ray player? this should solve any issues.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16422403
> 
> 
> Are you saying it's preferable to allow your player to decode DTS-MA and DD-TrueHD rather than sending bitstream over HDMI and letting the AVM50v do the job? I would've thought the Anthem would do a better job than most players.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No?



It's like unZipping a Zip file. It doesn't matter which computer you do it on. The LPCM that comes out of the decoder, whether in the player or in the Anthem, is bit for bit identical to what went into the encoder when the disc was made. That's what it means to say the track is "lossless".


Or to put it another way, if you can hear a difference then you have either found a setup problem or a bug.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *osofast240sx* /forum/post/16422448
> 
> 
> Is Anthem comming out with there own Blu-ray player? this should solve any issues.



There have been no rumors to that effect.

--Bob


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16422403
> 
> 
> Are you saying it's preferable to allow your player to decode DTS-MA and DD-TrueHD rather than sending bitstream over HDMI and letting the AVM50v do the job? I would've thought the Anthem would do a better job than most players.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No?



A player can do more things during the decoding process. For example it can merge in another audio or video stream that contains a PIP with commentary. Ultimately this is why you want a player than can decode all formats.


There was a theory floating around that decoding in the processor might give less jitter, but that would be very dependent on your particular hardware.


----------



## Milt99

I don't know about the 50v, but the D2 in either flavor re-clocks the PCM input during the 24/192 upsampling process.

If I owned a 50v, I think I would be inclined to let it do the processing for lossless codecs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The AVM 50 and AVM 50v must also buffer and re-clock the HDMI LPCM input since they offer, for example, audio sync delay. This jitter stuff is so much FUD.

--Bob


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

If it did not come with ARC (room correction software and mic.) I would really invest in the extra money and get this as it truly does work wonders on correcting room problems and getting the best from your D2


MIKE


IT DID NOT COME WITH ARC , I ASKED , SHOULD I WAIT TO DO ALL THE UPGRADES AT ONCE ? THIS IS OH SO NEW TO ME . I WILL NOT BE READY TO RUN THE SYSTEM FOR A COUPLE MONTHS , SEEING I AM IN THE MIDDLE OF FINISHING THE ROOM . D2 , A5 , MCA50 , PARADIGM 100'S , CC690 , ADP590'S TIMES 2 , 2 PAIRS , SUB 15 , PANAMAX 5300 , 5400 , PS3 , XBOX 360 . I WILL BE NEEDING THE SUPPORT OF EVERYONE WHEN I GO TO DO THE HOOK UP MY NEW SYSTEM MY OLD SYSTEM IS 15 YEARS OLD .


THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO


BERT


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16423295
> 
> 
> It's like unZipping a Zip file.



Great analogy!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/16428186
> 
> 
> If it did not come with ARC (room correction software and mic.) I would really invest in the extra money and get this as it truly does work wonders on correcting room problems and getting the best from your D2
> 
> 
> MIKE
> 
> 
> IT DID NOT COME WITH ARC , I ASKED , SHOULD I WAIT TO DO ALL THE UPGRADES AT ONCE ? THIS IS OH SO NEW TO ME . I WILL NOT BE READY TO RUN THE SYSTEM FOR A COUPLE MONTHS , SEEING I AM IN THE MIDDLE OF FINISHING THE ROOM . D2 , A5 , MCA50 , PARADIGM 100'S , CC690 , ADP590'S TIMES 2 , 2 PAIRS , SUB 15 , PANAMAX 5300 , 5400 , PS3 , XBOX 360 . I WILL BE NEEDING THE SUPPORT OF EVERYONE WHEN I GO TO DO THE HOOK UP MY NEW SYSTEM MY OLD SYSTEM IS 15 YEARS OLD .
> 
> 
> THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO
> 
> 
> BERT



The ARC upgrade for the original D2 is only $400, and requires no hardware installation in the D2 so you don't even have to take the unit to a dealer. (The processing power used by ARC is already built into the D2.)


In addition, although Anthem has not yet confirmed this, the pricing for the D2 -> D2v upgrade is expected to include ARC, and so we expect Anthem to discount that pricing a bit for folks who already have a D2/ARC license. So if you are planning on getting the D2 -> D2v upgrade anyway, there's likely nothing to lose by getting the ARC license now.

--Bob


----------



## Verbow

Picked up my new D2V and I'm ready to begin ARC setup. Looking at the instructions, the D2V manual says make sure measurements are 2 feet apart (consistent with what Bob has said). However, the pamphlet included with the ARC kit says measurements should be at least 1 foot (30.5 cm) apart. Has ARC changed or is this a typo? Overall the manual is very well written so I was surprised to see this inconsistency. I ask because my seating area is small and 1 foot would be easier. Any idea Bob? The audio geek in me may try both to see if I hear a difference...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Verbow* /forum/post/16429549
> 
> 
> Picked up my new D2V and I'm ready to begin ARC setup. Looking at the instructions, the D2V manual says make sure measurements are 2 feet apart (consistent with what Bob has said). However, the pamphlet included with the ARC kit says measurements should be at least 1 foot (30.5 cm) apart. Has ARC changed or is this a typo? Overall the manual is very well written so I was surprised to see this inconsistency. I ask because my seating area is small and 1 foot would be easier. Any idea Bob? The audio geek in me may try both to see if I hear a difference...



The instructions in the manual are newer and more correct. Use at least 24 inch spacing. ARC needs the spacing to distinguish room effects from inherent speaker performance.


I use 30 inch spacing myself. Keep in mind that you can use a curved arc or a box placement (center and 4 corners) for smaller spaces. I use a curved arc myself with the outer 2 positions angled forward (i.e., closer to the screen than the center 3).


ETA: Oh, and remember that you should never be alone when first experiencing ARC. It's too easy to injure yourself when hopping about in unbridled glee. So, have you picked out your "ARC Buddy"?

--Bob


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16423295
> 
> 
> It's like unZipping a Zip file. It doesn't matter which computer you do it on. The LPCM that comes out of the decoder, whether in the player or in the Anthem, is bit for bit identical to what went into the encoder when the disc was made. That's what it means to say the track is "lossless".
> 
> 
> Or to put it another way, if you can hear a difference then you have either found a setup problem or a bug.
> 
> --Bob



Okay, cool. Thanks!


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16423295
> 
> 
> It's like unZipping a Zip file. It doesn't matter which computer you do it on. The LPCM that comes out of the decoder, whether in the player or in the Anthem, is bit for bit identical to what went into the encoder when the disc was made. That's what it means to say the track is "lossless".
> 
> 
> Or to put it another way, if you can hear a difference then you have either found a setup problem or a bug.
> 
> --Bob



Oh yeah, just wondering: why do you recommend LPCM over bitstream? Just curious! Also, I wonder whether there might be bass management issues going LPCM. I know there was a 5 or 10 db bass drop when I went analog out from my Denon 3800BDCI. Is my concern justified or not?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/16430293
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, just wondering: why do you recommend LPCM over bitstream? Just curious! Also, I wonder whether there might be bass management issues going LPCM. I know there was a 5 or 10 db bass drop when I went analog out from my Denon 3800BDCI. Is my concern justified or not?



Secondary Audio mixing in the Blu-Ray player almost always works better/more-conveniently if you use HDMI LPCM. This is likely to become even more true as newer players start shipping which mix Secondary Audio into the full, high-bandwidth, primary tracks.


The Anthem processors have no problem with LFE levels for LPCM input.

--Bob


----------



## Verbow

Thanks Bob, though currently I'm ARC-less. My I/O Gear USB adapter can't find the processor (device manager says it's working fine and I've tried both ports 2 and 4) and my Radio Shack adapter found the Anthem, did the measurements, but crashed the computer (twice) when uploading (also requiring a cold reboot of the Anthem, which froze but fortunately came right back up.)


I'm ready to pull my hair out! I may try disabling all anti-virus and firewall type apps to see if it makes a difference with the Radio Shack, though it looks like I'm looking at trying a third adapter


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Verbow* /forum/post/16430831
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, though currently I'm ARC-less. My I/O Gear USB adapter can't find the processor (device manager says it's working fine and I've tried both ports 2 and 4) and my Radio Shack adapter found the Anthem, did the measurements, but crashed the computer (twice) when uploading (also requiring a cold reboot of the Anthem, which froze but fortunately came right back up.)
> 
> 
> I'm ready to pull my hair out! I may try disabling all anti-virus and firewall type apps to see if it makes a difference with the Radio Shack, though it looks like I'm looking at trying a third adapter



We've had mostly disappointment reports on the Radio Shack adapters, so I'm afraid that's no surprise.


I'm surprised the I/O Gear is giving you grief. Have you checked to see if you have the latest Windows driver for it from their support site?


Most folks here are using the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter, available from Amazon among other places.


Also, delete the drivers for any current USB/Serial adapters before trying to install the driver for whichever one you try next.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

Well, I finally joined the D2 owner's club. Just got my unit yesterday and after spending a good chunk of last evening doing cable hook-ups, I finally powered up the unit today and got sound out of it. ARC set up is next. Lots of stuff to learn!


What effect (mode?) do most people use to listen to music? I am coming from a Lexicon MC-1. I used to listen to Music Surround, L7, and Music Logic depending on the type of music. What would be the equivalent to each of those 3 effects on the D2?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16431014
> 
> 
> Well, I finally joined the D2 owner's club. Just got my unit yesterday and after spending a good chunk of last evening doing cable hook-ups, I finally powered up the unit today and got sound out of it. ARC set up is next. Lots of stuff to learn!
> 
> 
> What effect (mode?) do most people use to listen to music? I am coming from a Lexicon MC-1. I used to listen to Music Surround, L7, and Music Logic depending on the type of music. What would be the equivalent to each of those 3 effects on the D2?



There's no exact equivalents. But in my understanding, all three of these modes are based on a core L7 process with various parameter setting differences. If that is correct, then PLII would be closer than other modes. Use PLII Music and try the adjustments for Center Width and Panorama. For movies/TV, PLII Movie would be closest to L7 Film.


If you are running a 7.1 system, then PLIIx would be the mode to use rather than PLII.


But really, give all the Anthem's decoder modes their day in the sun. Hours of discovery await.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nicoff,

As Roger says, you need to set aside some time to explore the surround modes and develop your own personal preferences.


You also have to decide whether you prefer THX post processing to be turned on or off.


I only have a 5.1 speaker setup, so I don't get to play with the surround modes that raise 5.1 content to 7.1 speakers.


For 2.0 content, I'm currently using Anthem Logic - Cinema for regular TV, PLIIx - Movie for 2.0 movies, simple Stereo for 2.0 music (usually), or PLIIx - Music when I want to try surround embellishment of 2-channel music content.


Since getting ARC, I've personally ended up NOT using THX post processing for anything. I've set up ARC with a separate Music configuration that excludes my Center speaker. I use that for both Stereo and PLIIx-Music listening with 2.0 music content. Of course Stereo mode already eliminates the Center speaker, but letting ARC do a solution without a Center speaker means it can concentrate a bit more on what's best for LF/RF/Sub.


If you are a fan of old movies, one mode that definitely comes in handy is Mono Academy mode which applies the treble filter necessary to remove the aggressive treble boost built into those old, mono tracks for historical reasons. Of course you have to do that case by case as some old movies have already been filtered.

--Bob


----------



## Verbow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16430952
> 
> 
> We've had mostly disappointment reports on the Radio Shack adapters, so I'm afraid that's no surprise.
> 
> 
> I'm surprised the I/O Gear is giving you grief. Have you checked to see if you have the latest Windows driver for it from their support site?
> 
> 
> Most folks here are using the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter, available from Amazon among other places.
> 
> 
> Also, delete the drivers for any current USB/Serial adapters before trying to install the driver for whichever one you try next.
> 
> --Bob



Fortunately disabling the antivirus/firewall did the trick (something I remember my Lexicon manual emphasizing) - the Radioshack adapter worked fine. Uninstalling the IOGear driver (which wouldn't find the Anthem even after uninstalling the Radioshack and multiple reboots) may have helped as well - thanks Bob for the tip. My surrounds have some funny dips that weren't fully corrected and I don't think I'll be able to manage them as they're in-ceiling. Never-the-less, the sound is so dramatically better I just can't complain. This really is amazing technology!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Verbow* /forum/post/16432176
> 
> 
> Fortunately disabling the antivirus/firewall did the trick (something I remember my Lexicon manual emphasizing) - the Radioshack adapter worked fine. Uninstalling the IOGear driver (which wouldn't find the Anthem even after uninstalling the Radioshack and multiple reboots) may have helped as well - thanks Bob for the tip. My surrounds have some funny dips that weren't fully corrected and I don't think I'll be able to manage them as they're in-ceiling. Never-the-less, the sound is so dramatically better I just can't complain. This really is amazing technology!



Cool! What's the model number on the Radio Shack adapter, and which version of Windows are you using it with?


When you get a chance, post your ARC results charts and the ARC Targets window and we'll see if we have any suggestions for you.

--Bob


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bob pariseau* /forum/post/16428879
> 
> 
> the arc upgrade for the original d2 is only $400, and requires no hardware installation in the d2 so you don't even have to take the unit to a dealer. (the processing power used by arc is already built into the d2.)
> 
> 
> in addition, although anthem has not yet confirmed this, the pricing for the d2 -> d2v upgrade is expected to include arc, and so we expect anthem to discount that pricing a bit for folks who already have a d2/arc license. So if you are planning on getting the d2 -> d2v upgrade anyway, there's likely nothing to lose by getting the arc license now.
> 
> --bob



thanks bob


i will upgrade to arc heard it is great .


Bert


----------



## Verbow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16432207
> 
> 
> Cool! What's the model number on the Radio Shack adapter, and which version of Windows are you using it with?
> 
> 
> When you get a chance, post your ARC results charts and the ARC Targets window and we'll see if we have any suggestions for you.
> 
> --Bob



Here are the measurements - I may redo them as I realized afterwards the screen (a Screen Research acoustically transparent screen) wasn't down all the way. I don't think the screen will make much difference, but can I load one set of measurements for Movie taken with the screen down and another for Music with the screen up - ex 2 sets of measurements?


Adapter was just a Gigaware on Windows XP. Let's hope my luck with it continues and it wasn't a fluke! Always worked fine with my Lexicon RV-8.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Verbow* /forum/post/16433340
> 
> 
> Here are the measurements - I may redo them as I realized afterwards the screen (a Screen Research acoustically transparent screen) wasn't down all the way. I don't think the screen will make much difference, but can I load one set of measurements for Movie taken with the screen down and another for Music with the screen up - ex 2 sets of measurements?
> 
> 
> Adapter was just a Gigaware on Windows XP. Let's hope my luck with it continues and it wasn't a fluke! Always worked fine with my Lexicon RV-8.



Yes you can do the separate Music pass with the screen up. The Music pass is a second complete set of Measurements and won't begin until you tell ARC you are ready.


To get the Radio Shack Gigaware USB/Serial adapter to work, what antivirus/firewall stuff did you have to turn off? Is this something in Windows XP itself, or a 3rd party product. It would be nice to learn there is some simple way for folks to get the Radio Shack adapters to work.


-------------------------------------------


Your charts look fine for a first pass. The first thing you should do is experiment with raising Max EQ Frequency in the Targets window. By default ARC only corrects up to 5KHz. Try raising that up to 20KHz, which will improve the higher frequencies, and keep an eye on the green Calculated results at the lower frequencies. If the lower frequency results show new problems, back off Max EQ Frequency looking for a nice compromise value. You don't have to re-Measure to do this. Just open your existing ARC results file in Advanced mode, make the change in Targets and re-Calculate. So it is easy to try different values. When you get a result you like, Upload it and give it a listen.


Note that if you set up a separate Music configuration, you will want to change Max EQ Frequency for both Move and Music in the Targets window. You can view your Music results charts by selecting them in the ARC View menu.


You subwoofer is showing good output down to about 25Hz which is fine. If you were expecting it to go lower, try repositioning it a few inches closer to a solid wall/corner to get some Boundary Gain at the lowest frequencies.


LF/RF/C all have a dip at 15KHz that might respond well to repointing those speakers. If they are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing. This dip may be a bit more than ARC will correct, but you'll learn that when you do the Max EQ Frequency experiment. In any event, it will only take a small amount of improvement, perhaps by repointing, to lift it into the range ARC can fully correct.


LS/RS exhibit a room dip near 80Hz that is a bit more than ARC can correct. But the residual error is small and you might just ignore it. The error left in LS is a bit larger than in RS. I believe you said these are in-wall speakers so your only option for addressing this may be room treatments (bass traps).

--Bob


----------



## Nick HT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/14759515
> 
> 
> The Digital Record outputs of the Anthem will output a coax, optical or AES/EBU digital audio input or a digitized version of an ANALOG DSP input. Except for digitizing an ANALOG DSP input there is no processing done on the signal prior to output -- e.g., input DD5.1 or DTS goes out as the identical DD5.1 or DTS. These outputs are intended for use with digital recorders.
> 
> --Bob



I am having trouble getting either DTS or DD5.1 from the Coax Digital Record outputs of my D2v. Using Coax from an DV79Avi and Optical from a DirectV DVR results in only 2 channel output even though the D2v is recognising the DD5.1 or DTS audio. I've tried both 16 and 24 bit in the Audio output setup.


Does anyone have any suggestions. Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16433959
> 
> 
> I am having trouble getting either DTS or DD5.1 from the Coax Digital Record outputs of my D2v. Using Coax from an DV79Avi and Optical from a DirectV DVR results in only 2 channel output even though the D2v is recognising the DD5.1 or DTS audio. I've tried both 16 and 24 bit in the Audio output setup.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions. Thanks!



I haven't tried using these with the D2v. Give Anthem tech support a call, you may have found a new bug. Please do report back what you find out.

--Bob


----------



## Verbow

Thanks so much for the analysis, Bob - very much appreciated. I'll fool around a bit with speaker placement and see what I can do. The sub is already in a corner, and you're correct - the surrounds are in-ceiling so not much I can do with them other than room treatments.


I run Windows XP with Zone Alarm firewall and ESET Node32 antivirus. From what I've read, all of these programs - Nortons, McAfee, etc - can cause issues with other programs. In their update instructions, Lexicon strongly recommended disabling all antivirus/firewall programs and it seemed to do the trick with the Anthem after two previous crashes. I'll keep you posted about whether it proves to be a consistent solution or whether more crashes occur.


----------



## usxplong

Hello all. As I am hoping to get mine soon too, I woulk like to put everything together and be ready for teh installation. The biggest issue I have so far is a laptop. My laptop is running Win98 and the processor is not that fast. Can I use it to do the ARC calculations or I need to get a more up to speed laptop? Thanks.


----------



## jayray

Bob,

can I change the dist for my front speakers and enter this in the D2v without remeasuring?

John


----------



## PArmola

Bob can u look at these ARC settings and tell me what your think? The surrounds are in-wall. the rears are on-wall. These are all def tech speakers with the fronts being Mythos ST's and the sub being a Martin Logan depth. LOL, well, I guess I need to know how to post them. They are saved on my laptop, but how do i convert them to loadable format for this venue.


Paul


----------



## Nicoff

My first try at using ARC already is paying off. After looking at the measured and corrected curves I discovered that one of the speakers (a rear surround) was not putting out high frequencies. It turns out that a cable to the ribbon tweeter (high-frequencies) in that speaker had become detached. I will have to use a soldering gun and fix the problem before trying again.

A quick question: How should I save the file so that I can upload it here? I tried to upload the file that showed the flaw that I described above but had no luck.


----------



## Verbow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16434628
> 
> 
> A quick question: How should I save the file so that I can upload it here? I tried to upload the file that showed the flaw that I described above but had no luck.



If using Vista, hit the Start button on the bottom left, search for "Snipping Tool"; this utility lets you highlight the areas of the screen you want to save and save them as a jpeg for posting here. If using XP, you can capture the screenshot with the PrintScreen button at the top right of the keyboard and then paste it into an application like Word or Paint. Save and post it here.


There may be an easier way, but I know these work...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16434628
> 
> 
> My first try at using ARC already is paying off. After looking at the measured and corrected curves I discovered that one of the speakers (a rear surround) was not putting out high frequencies. It turns out that a cable to the ribbon tweeter (high-frequencies) in that speaker had become detached. I will have to use a soldering gun and fix the problem before trying again.
> 
> A quick question: How should I save the file so that I can upload it here? I tried to upload the file that showed the flaw that I described above but had no luck.



Ah! Another case of "Richard Syndrome". Cool!


Look in Windows Help for the key combo for "Screen Capture Active Window". It is something like Alt-PrintScreen but I run Windows on a Mac so I don't know for sure. This will capture the visible portion of the active window into the clipboard. You can then, for example, Paste that into Windows Paint, and Save As in JPEG file format -- which you can upload to AVS.


You can't get all the ARC charts visible at once in the ARC application window so you need to scroll to the top, capture that, scroll to the bottom and capture that. If you do both Movie and Music charts (selected in the ARC View menu) that's 4 chart files, and then a 5th file to capture the Targets window.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PArmola* /forum/post/16434624
> 
> 
> Bob can u look at these ARC settings and tell me what your think? The surrounds are in-wall. the rears are on-wall. These are all def tech speakers with the fronts being Mythos ST's and the sub being a Martin Logan depth. LOL, well, I guess I need to know how to post them. They are saved on my laptop, but how do i convert them to loadable format for this venue.
> 
> 
> Paul



Take a look at the answer I just posted for Nicoff.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16434612
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> can I change the dist for my front speakers and enter this in the D2v without remeasuring?
> 
> John



If all you are doing is correcting an erroneous distance entry in Setup, then yes, you can do that without having to re-Measure for ARC.


But if you actually moved the speaker you should DEFINITELY re-Measure. Even inches matter.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16434551
> 
> 
> Hello all. As I am hoping to get mine soon too, I woulk like to put everything together and be ready for teh installation. The biggest issue I have so far is a laptop. My laptop is running Win98 and the processor is not that fast. Can I use it to do the ARC calculations or I need to get a more up to speed laptop? Thanks.



The ARC application depends upon a Microsoft "microphone sound capture" system software framework that first showed up in Windows XP.


So you can't use Windows 98 or even Windows 2000 to do ARC Measurements.


As it turns out, if you already have a Measurements file taken using some other computer, you can use Windows 2000 to do the Calculation and Upload, but I don't think you can use Windows 98 even for that.


But really the right answer is you need a newer laptop.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16434888
> 
> 
> The ARC application depends upon a Microsoft "microphone sound capture" system software framework that first showed up in Windows XP.
> 
> 
> So you can't use Windows 98 or even Windows 2000 to do ARC Measurements.
> 
> 
> As it turns out, if you already have a Measurements file taken using some other computer, you can use Windows 2000 to do the Calculation and Upload, but I don't think you can use Windows 98 even for that.
> 
> 
> But really the right answer is you need a newer laptop.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I really apprecoiate it. Now I have to spare some money for a laptop.


----------



## RROSEN

Hahaa, I love how it's still "Richard Syndrome". I guess being first wins the prize.


I wonder just how many people have found a freakish issue like this with the help of ARC.


How is everyone doing anyway? I've been away from the AVS for a bit and just catching up on the thread. I see Bob is still on a personal mission to help ensure everyone has the very best experience possible. What an asset he is to us.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Even Anthem has taken note of the importance of "Richard Syndrome" (first fully documented in this thread).


Nick, for example, has pointed out it really needs to be discussed whenever people argue it is better to set things up by listening than by measuring.


For newbies, "Richard Syndrome" means discovering, via ARC, that one of your speakers is actually broken, even though you'd been blithely enjoying it up to now.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

Ok. Second try at ARC. With speaker connection properly taken care of, I went through the entire process again.

The graphics show that I took care of the issue with the rear surround speaker.


Now, here is my new issue: ARC is not uploading the corrections to the D2. I keep getting the following message:


"Upload/verify Failed

failed to upload/verify gains"


I have tried to upload it several times now and get the same message. (I should note that I did one ARC correction earlier and it uploaded just fine.)


Help!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16435322
> 
> 
> Ok. Second try at ARC. With speaker connection properly taken care of, I went through the entire process again.
> 
> The graphics show that I took care of the issue with the rear surround speaker.
> 
> 
> Now, here is my new issue: ARC is not uploading the corrections to the D2. I keep getting the following message:
> 
> 
> "Upload/verify Failed
> 
> failed to upload/verify gains"
> 
> 
> I have tried to upload it several times now and get the same message. (I should note that I did one ARC correction earlier and it uploaded just fine.)
> 
> 
> Help!



Reboot your computer. Power cycle the D2 with both the remote and with the rear panel power switch.


Open your latest ARC results file in Advanced mode and try the Upload again -- no need to re-Measure or re-Calculate.


Typically this means you are having trouble with your Serial connection (the Upload has to do a lot more write operations to the D2 than the Measurement stuff does). Let's see if a fresh start for the computer and D2 clears this for you.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

I've recently been experiencing video dropouts for brief (1 to 2 seconds) when watching tv. TV is via a Bell Expressvu 9242 HD Satellite receiver fed through an AVM50 into a Pioneer Elite 151 display. It is very random and I have only noticed it while watching TV. (not dvd or blu-ray).


I have not tried bypassing the Anthem yet to see if it still occurs as I was curious if any other Anthem owners have experienced this although I suspect it is the satellite receiver.


When it occurs, the TV displays the tv's input info which would make me think it is occuring ahead of the tv.


Anyway, your comments are appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That's probably just a glitch in the satellite feed as opposed to any hardware problem with your satellite receiver or the Anthem.


Dropouts like that can happen for all sorts of reasons -- such as when they reconfigure which transponders are being used for different channels or even when there is a glitch in the feed to them from the originating channel -- i.e., before they send it up to the satellite.


Check the signal strength on your satellite receiver to make sure the dish is still well pointed and not blocked by trees or anything.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16435404
> 
> 
> That's probably just a glitch in the satellite feed as opposed to any hardware problem with your satellite receiver or the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Dropouts like that can happen for all sorts of reasons -- such as when they reconfigure which transponders are being used for different channels or even when there is a glitch in the feed to them from the originating channel -- i.e., before they send it up to the satellite.
> 
> 
> Check the signal strength on your satellite receiver to make sure the dish is still well pointed and not blocked by trees or anything.
> 
> --Bob



Bob


I just checked the signal strength and they are all very strong with the lowest strength at 95%.


I have never noticed this on my other satellite receiver which is fed from the same dish. I don't watch the other one as much where it is in the bedroom, but I would have noticed it by now I think, if it was the incoming feed.


I probably should try bypassing the Anthem just to rule it out.


Based on what I'm describing, do you think its safe to rule out the tv as the problem?


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16435344
> 
> 
> Reboot your computer. Power cycle the D2 with both the remote and with the rear panel power switch.
> 
> 
> Open your latest ARC results file in Advanced mode and try the Upload again -- no need to re-Measure or re-Calculate.
> 
> 
> Typically this means you are having trouble with your Serial connection (the Upload has to do a lot more write operations to the D2 than the Measurement stuff does). Let's see if a fresh start for the computer and D2 clears this for you.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob! It worked!

Indeed a remarkable change in the sound. I am (briefly anyway) the newest ARC believer now!

I will post my graphs soon!


----------



## Nicoff

Ok. Here are the graphs.

Wondering now why the "center speaker" is so off-target. Another tweeter problem?


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16414237
> 
> 
> Plug the Keyspan into the USB port of your computer. Run a "straight through" serial cable (pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9 with no pair swapped) from the Keyspan to the back of your Anthem.
> 
> 
> I leave the serial cable permanently attached to the back of my D2v -- coiled neatly out of the way when I'm not using it.
> 
> 
> b



Thanks Bob. Update went well on the first try. I even used the settings editor to download all my user settings to my laptop.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16435289
> 
> 
> Even Anthem has taken note of the importance of "Richard Syndrome" (first fully documented in this thread).
> 
> 
> Nick, for example, has pointed out it really needs to be discussed whenever people argue it is better to set things up by listening than by measuring.
> 
> 
> For newbies, "Richard Syndrome" means discovering, via ARC, that one of your speakers is actually broken, even though you'd been blithely enjoying it up to now.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah I was one of the first to get the Arc Upgrade once they started shipping a while after the new D2's started including it.


I have no idea how long the tweeter on my center was blown, but I had no clue. I was like, this doesn't look right. I posted my graphs and it took about 3 seconds for Bob and others to figure it out hahaa.


Very happy ending. Swung by Paradigm with the speaker, they replaced the tweeter and a couple other parts just to be sure and then even replaced the grill that had a slight tear in the corner.


No one will ever convince me that Anthem/Paradigm aren't the best folks to deal with on this kind of stuff and this place the best Forum.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16435429
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> I just checked the signal strength and they are all very strong with the lowest strength at 95%.
> 
> 
> I have never noticed this on my other satellite receiver which is fed from the same dish. I don't watch the other one as much where it is in the bedroom, but I would have noticed it by now I think, if it was the incoming feed.
> 
> 
> I probably should try bypassing the Anthem just to rule it out.
> 
> 
> Based on what I'm describing, do you think its safe to rule out the tv as the problem?



If it is an HDMI problem you can't eliminate the TV yet.


Try switching the satellite box to Component video and Optical Digital audio. If you still experience audio dropouts you can pretty much guarantee it is the satellite signal or the satellite box.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16435562
> 
> 
> Ok. Here are the graphs.
> 
> Wondering now why the "center speaker" is so off-target. Another tweeter problem?



Yes it looks like Center has a problem. Play some stereo content (e.g., a CD) in Stereo All audio mode, then go put your ear up close to each individual driver and make sure they are all producing output. Compare what you are hearing out of the Center tweeter with what, say the tweeters in LF or RF are producing.


Some speakers have separate input jacks for bass and high frequencies -- usually connected by buss bars at the speaker so you only have to run one speaker wire to the speaker. Check how Center is wired. You may also have a blown fuse in that speaker.


-----------------------------


Your "basic volume level" (the flat part of the Target curves to the right of the crossover frequencies) is also rather low. It's at 67dB right now and you want it closer to 75dB.


Before you Measure again, go through the exercise of setting Test Level and your subwoofer volume knob. Go into Setup > Level Calibration and zero out all the lines. Set Manual test mode in the first line. Scroll down one line to Test Level (Noise Level in the older units) and adjust that line to yield roughly 75dB using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter set pointing straight up at ARC mic position #1 (Slow Response, and "C" weighting). The tone will be coming from the LF speaker.


Now scroll down to a subwoofer line -- which will still be zero. Leave that line at zero and adjust the volume knob built into your subwoofer to again yield roughly 75dB SPL measured the same way.


ARC uses Test Level to set the volume of its test sweep tones. And by pre-adjusting the volume knob on the sub you insure ARC can easily volume balance the sub to the other speakers. Ballpark settings are fine for both of these as ARC will do the fine adjustments and Upload new speaker volume trims into Setup > Level Calibration for you.


----------------------------------------------


ARC has decided your room has essentially no Room Gain. After you get your next set of Measurements, try "forcing" a little bit of Room Gain and see if you like the sound better. Try 2dB (in the Targets window -- leave the "force" box checked). Room Gain will show up as a shallow hump in the Target curves near the crossover.


----------------------------------------------


Your high frequencies Measure very well indeed (except for Center which needs fixing). So you can easily get away with raising Max EQ Frequency in the Targets window all the way up to 20KHz so that ARC provides correction above the default 5KHz limit.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

Bob, thank a lot for your suggestions! I made the changes to the volume level as suggested and now my basic volume level is more in line with the level that you suggested (around 75db).

The tweeter in the center channel is working, however it has a lower output than my other speakers (the mains and the center are different brands though) so I am going to contact the speaker manufacturer just to be sure.

I have attached the newest graphs. I might even try to run ARC without a center speaker for music.

Thanks a lot again.


----------



## RROSEN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16435358
> 
> 
> I've recently been experiencing video dropouts for brief (1 to 2 seconds) when watching tv. TV is via a Bell Expressvu 9242 HD Satellite receiver fed through an AVM50 into a Pioneer Elite 151 display. It is very random and I have only noticed it while watching TV. (not dvd or blu-ray).
> 
> 
> I have not tried bypassing the Anthem yet to see if it still occurs as I was curious if any other Anthem owners have experienced this although I suspect it is the satellite receiver.
> 
> 
> When it occurs, the TV displays the tv's input info which would make me think it is occurring ahead of the tv.
> 
> 
> Anyway, your comments are appreciated.



Well I have had both Rogers and ExpressVu. I never had any issues with ExpressVu although mine is a model 9200, but you can forget about Rogers.


The Rogers HD PVR's drop outs (handshakes) were so bad with HDMI that I had to switch to component. It seemed like all I had to do was look at the remote let alone change a channel and I would get a green screen for a second or two.


Component solved the problem and while it kinda maybe possibly seemed like component may have been just a tad softer, that could just as easily have been my imagination and that feeling went away in a day or two in any case.


I never had anything with my ExVu 9200 that tempted me to switch from HDMI though so hopefully its something you can resolve.


Have you tried repeater on/off to see if that makes any diff?


Cheers


----------



## PArmola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16434879
> 
> 
> Take a look at the answer I just posted for Nicoff.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob:


Here are whar ARC showed at a setting of 20KHZ

Attachment 142452 

Attachment 142453 

Attachment 142454


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PArmola* /forum/post/16437659
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob:
> 
> 
> Here are whar ARC showed at a setting of 20KHZ
> 
> Attachment 142452
> 
> Attachment 142453
> 
> Attachment 142454



In your case, your "basic volume level" is higher than I recommend. You are getting 85dB and I would recommend you set it closer to 75dB. See the notes I posted above for Nicoff on how to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test (Noise) Level and the volume knob on your subwoofer prior to your next ARC Measurement pass.


ARC has done a fine job correcting some pretty large swings in your speakers. The only residual error is in the mid-range in LS, but it is less than 2dB and, I think, ignorable.


You've got a pretty amazing room resonance (peak) at 40Hz visible in L/R/LS/RS and another one near 200Hz visible in the surrounds and Center. Room treatments (bass traps) would likely be your best bet to knock those down, but ARC has corrected for them so there is no rush.


Your biggest problem is that all 4 surrounds and your Center speaker are pretty weak in bass, which means ARC has used a higher crossover for them. The timbre of sound is likely to change as you pan around the room compared to LF/RF. This may just be the nature of these speakers. Adding bass traps to knock down the two room resonances may allow ARC to extend those speakers a little further into bass but I wouldn't expect too much from that.


What you've got now should sound dramatically improved over your uncorrected setup. And there's not THAT much bass in the surround channels to begin with. So if you are thinking about upgrading speakers I'd start by replacing Center.


Also double check that there isn't a bass output configuration option on Center (and the surrounds) that needs to be adjusted -- e.g., opening a bass port.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16437602
> 
> 
> Bob, thank a lot for your suggestions! I made the changes to the volume level as suggested and now my basic volume level is more in line with the level that you suggested (around 75db).
> 
> The tweeter in the center channel is working, however it has a lower output than my other speakers (the mains and the center are different brands though) so I am going to contact the speaker manufacturer just to be sure.
> 
> I have attached the newest graphs. I might even try to run ARC without a center speaker for music.
> 
> Thanks a lot again.



It's unlikely pointing is your problem since the weakness extends over such a large range of high frequencies, but also double check the pointing of your Center speaker. If it is not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to the vertical pointing.


I think your Center speaker is pretty poor as is compared to the quality of your other speakers. If you can't find a way to fix it, I would suggest you consider replacing it. There's a ton of important movie content carried in the Center speaker. Almost all the dialog for example.


Did you also raise Max EQ Frequency target as I suggested? ARC should be doing more correction of the higher frequencies for C. When you get a chance, post a capture of your ARC Targets window as well. That will also let me see the crossovers and Room Gain settings.


Given the performance of C at the moment, I think it would be an excellent idea to set up a Music configuration without your Center speaker.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16438194
> 
> 
> It's unlikely pointing is your problem since the weakness extends over such a large range of high frequencies, but also double check the pointing of your Center speaker. If it is not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to the vertical pointing.
> 
> 
> I think your Center speaker is pretty poor as is compared to the quality of your other speakers. If you can't find a way to fix it, I would suggest you consider replacing it. There's a ton of important movie content carried in the Center speaker. Almost all the dialog for example.
> 
> 
> Did you also raise Max EQ Frequency target as I suggested? ARC should be doing more correction of the higher frequencies for C. When you get a chance, post a capture of your ARC Targets window as well. That will also let me see the crossovers and Room Gain settings.
> 
> 
> Given the performance of C at the moment, I think it would be an excellent idea to set up a Music configuration without your Center speaker.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

First of all, thanks a lot for your help. The center speaker sits about 5-6 feet above ear level (near the ceiling of the room). Before doing the measurements earlier today, I tilted the speaker so that the tweeter is now aiming toward ear level. However, as you could see, the results are not much different (the last graph that I posted is based on the tilted center speaker). So you are right, the problem with the center speaker still remains. I am using a typical 5.1 configuration as follows: the center is a B&W HTM-2 nautilus center (about 10 years old), the main fronts are Magnepans 3.6., the surrounds (which are placed behind me) are Magnepans 3.5, the sub is a Velodyne. In the set-up I said that I have no rear speakers.

I spoke with the local B&W dealer. He confirmed that the B&W speaker has no fuse and that it could be that the driver is damaged. He also said that B&W still has drivers for their discontinued models so repairing is not a problem. The dealer suggested that I take the speaker to him for a check-up to be sure. Years ago, I had a hard time finding a center speaker that would work well with the Maggies. I ended up with the B&W as I felt they blended well. Today, I would think that there should be many other options for a center channel if needed.

I changed the basic volume target to be 75db as you suggested. However, I did not raise the Max EQ Frequency target as I was going one step at a time. I would like to try that next.

Questions:

*How do I go about raising the Max EQ?

*Also how do I find the ARC Targets so that I can post here?


Sorry for the newbie questions.

Thanks!!


----------



## Nicoff

Bob,

Forgot to add, that I like your idea of trying to set a music configuration without the center channel. In fact, I may have to do that for both music and cinema as I may be without a center speaker for a little while.

You suggested that I could also replace the center speaker with something else. Any suggestions as far as center speaker based on my set-up (maggies)? The speaker must sit horizontal and I do have a limited width. The maximum width of the center speaker is probably 25-30 inches (I need to measure to be sure).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16438535
> 
> 
> Questions:
> 
> *How do I go about raising the Max EQ?
> 
> *Also how do I find the ARC Targets so that I can post here?
> 
> 
> Sorry for the newbie questions.
> 
> Thanks!!



Open your ARC results file in Advanced mode -- the same way you get to the charts.


Click on Targets to open the Targets window. That's where you will find Max EQ Frequency and also Room Gain. There are separate entries for Movie and Music configurations. Don't fiddle with the "cutoff" values for the speakers.


You can capture the Target's window for posting here just as you do with the charts now.


Make the changes you want to make and accept those changes, which will also dismiss the Targets window. Now re-Calculate. There's no need to re-Measure, so you can experiment with different Target values quite quickly.


When you get results you like, do an Upload and give it a listen.


ETA: I'm sorry, but I don't have any suggestions to offer on replacement speakers.


ETA 2: My recollection is that this B&W center speaker is one of those that has separate input jacks for treble input. Double check that the wiring is correct and tight.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

Hey Bob,


Quick question for you. I noticed that you have also adopted the OPPO BDP-83 thread under your wing. That is for sure the stand alone unit I would be purchasing to replace my PS3 when the time comes.


I am asking the question here because its really a BDP-83/D2(v) setup question.


On the BDP-83 thread they talk about the lack of DD/DTS-(ES/EX) decoding in the player and how you simply Toslink/Coax to the receiver to do that decoding.


The question at the end of the tunnel is, do/would you have your D2(v) set up with separate BD and DVD input configurations whereby the BD audio is set to HDMI and the DVD is set to one of the Toslink/Coax inputs? (I say would because I think you have a 5.x setup, but if you had 6.x or 7.x)


Or do/would you just run it all through a single HDMI and not sweat the (ES/EX) stuff so much.


I'm sure glad the early reports are holding up to my rather high expectations for this player. While I followed a couple of the Panny players, I really never considered any other one once I heard that an Oppo was in the works given my experience and research on their earlier models of players.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My setup is 5.1 speakers so the Oppo BDP-83 DD EX and DTS ES stuff is irrelevant to me. If I had a 7.1 speaker setup I might experiment with a separate Source Setup for DVD. It should certainly work. But I haven't done that.


You can also change between HDMI Bitstream and HDMI LPCM on the fly (while playing a movie) using the Oppo's Setup menu, which is probably just as easy.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I'm hoping Oppo allows an easy remote option to switch HDMI between LPCM and bitstream. Or even cooler if they had a separate setting for HDMI bitstream on SDVD and LPCM on BDs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16439067
> 
> 
> Or even cooler if they had a separate setting for HDMI bitstream on SDVD and LPCM on BDs.



That has been requested.

--Bob


----------



## Verbow

Bob,


How would you describe the effect of "Room Resonance"? I did another set of measurements and found the center channel had a bit less presence and sounded a bit more "boxy". I did notice my initial mic position was about an inch an a half left of my previous center position when measuring, but I also noticed that ARC raised room resonance from about 2.5 to almost 3.


Just wondering which of these would more likely affect things.


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Verbow* /forum/post/16439185
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> How would you describe the effect of "Room Resonance"? I did another set of measurements and found the center channel had a bit less presence and sounded a bit more "boxy". I did notice my initial mic position was about an inch an a half left of my previous center position when measuring, but I also noticed that ARC raised room resonance from about 2.5 to almost 3.
> 
> 
> Just wondering which of these would more likely affect things.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I presume you are talking about "Room Gain" and not "Room Resonance". Take a look at some of the other charts that have been posted in this thread or just experiment yourself by altering it in the Targets window and seeing how the curves change. Room Gain will show up as the shallow hump in the Target and Calculated curves in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies. Room Gain is a "desirable" room response characteristic which ARC attempts to measure and preserve even as it is eliminating other room response variations.


NOTE: After playing with changes in Targets, you can use Auto Detect in the Targets window to have ARC reset the Targets back to whatever it originally decided.


I doubt you can hear a change of 0.5dB in Room Gain. So take a look at your charts to see what else might have changed in this latest pass. "Boxy" usually translates as some sort of issue with higher frequencies.


If you still have it, you can also re-Upload your prior results file to check your memory.

--Bob


----------



## Verbow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16439331
> 
> 
> If you still have it, you can also re-Upload your prior results file to check your memory.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Yes, I did mean "Room Gain". Unfortunately I also changed the direction of my left front speaker a little so I don't know if I want to reload the previous settings. I may just remeasure again. Even with the slight "boxiness" I'm perceiving it still sounds great!


----------



## spiderv6

I am thinking about adding two more speakers to take me from 5.1 to 7.1.


I have the amplification and of course the processing power I need to do that, I just need to buy some speakers.


What is typically sent to those extra 2 speakers when you move to 7.1? Can I get a relatively smaller (cheaper) pair (I have some older ones in the basement that are bookshelf) or do I really need to match them up with the existing rears (which are now out of production....)


Interested in how any of you have tackled this?


----------



## PArmola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16438194
> 
> 
> It's unlikely pointing is your problem since the weakness extends over such a large range of high frequencies, but also double check the pointing of your Center speaker. If it is not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to the vertical pointing.
> 
> 
> I think your Center speaker is pretty poor as is compared to the quality of your other speakers. If you can't find a way to fix it, I would suggest you consider replacing it. There's a ton of important movie content carried in the Center speaker. Almost all the dialog for example.
> 
> 
> Did you also raise Max EQ Frequency target as I suggested? ARC should be doing more correction of the higher frequencies for C. When you get a chance, post a capture of your ARC Targets window as well. That will also let me see the crossovers and Room Gain settings.
> 
> 
> Given the performance of C at the moment, I think it would be an excellent idea to set up a Music configuration without your Center speaker.
> 
> --Bob




Bob, The center is a Def Tech Mythos 10. It's seated under the television on a shelf. As far as bass traps, I one behind both LF and RF speakers. By that I mean directly behind as the sub is sitting in a corner. If I moved the sub to allow for the bass traps to fit, wouldn't it affect the low end?


Thanks again,



Paul


----------



## Bob Pariseau

PArmola,

The response from me that you quoted was for Nicoff, and not for you.


------------------


As for your setup, moving the sub out from the corner so you can fit a bass trap behind it will indeed alter its bass output, but whether that's a problem is something you can only tell by trying it and doing an ARC Measurement.


If your Center is surrounded inside a shelf that is likely reducing its bass. Try sliding it more towards the seats if you can to open it up a bit more.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16440361
> 
> 
> I am thinking about adding two more speakers to take me from 5.1 to 7.1.
> 
> 
> I have the amplification and of course the processing power I need to do that, I just need to buy some speakers.
> 
> 
> What is typically sent to those extra 2 speakers when you move to 7.1? Can I get a relatively smaller (cheaper) pair (I have some older ones in the basement that are bookshelf) or do I really need to match them up with the existing rears (which are now out of production....)
> 
> 
> Interested in how any of you have tackled this?



One thing to consider is how the timbre of sound changes as you pan around the room. This weighs in favor of matching all 4 surround speakers -- as well as auditioning surround speakers to find ones that match well with your fronts. You can do this by temporarily setting them up as an alternate pair of fronts (using a speaker wire switch) and then doing some A/B listening.


But of course using speakers you already HAVE is certainly the best way to start. Then you'll be able to tell whether any upgrade you are auditioning is actually an improvement.


It used to be the case that surround mixes, and what was steered to surrounds by processing algorithms like PLII, was fairly limited in frequency range. But now I think we are seeing more and more mixes which actually have full frequency range content in the surrounds -- albeit at limited volumes.


The point being that it is becoming more worthwhile to get good quality surround speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Verbow* /forum/post/16439374
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Yes, I did mean "Room Gain". Unfortunately I also changed the direction of my left front speaker a little so I don't know if I want to reload the previous settings. I may just remeasure again. Even with the slight "boxiness" I'm perceiving it still sounds great!



Check your charts to look for problems in Center. For example, did ARC pick a significantly different "cutoff" (crossover) value for it? And is anything different happening at the high frequencies? For example, did you forget to raise Max EQ Frequency target this time so Center isn't getting the correction it might need up there?


I doubt you would hear a 0.5dB change in Room Gain as "boxiness".

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RROSEN* /forum/post/16437642
> 
> 
> Well I have had both Rogers and ExpressVu. I never had any issues with ExpressVu although mine is a model 9200, but you can forget about Rogers.
> 
> 
> The Rogers HD PVR's drop outs (handshakes) were so bad with HDMI that I had to switch to component. It seemed like all I had to do was look at the remote let alone change a channel and I would get a green screen for a second or two.
> 
> 
> Component solved the problem and while it kinda maybe possibly seemed like component may have been just a tad softer, that could just as easily have been my imagination and that feeling went away in a day or two in any case.
> 
> 
> I never had anything with my ExVu 9200 that tempted me to switch from HDMI though so hopefully its something you can resolve.
> 
> 
> Have you tried repeater on/off to see if that makes any diff?
> 
> 
> Cheers



I have a 9200 upstairs and it used to be downstairs. I never noticed any dropouts at all with the 9200 and still don't. The problem only occurs with the 9242.


Where is the "repeater" setting on either of these receivers?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16441045
> 
> 
> Where is the "repeater" setting on either of these receivers?



I think he's talking about an old Anthem setting. The Setup > Source Setup > HDMI Repeater function no longer exists in the current Anthem firmware.

--Bob


----------



## RROSEN

Bob is correct as usual.


I guess the first thing I need to do once I get stuff out of storage is to do a firmware upgrade











Cheers


----------



## Nicoff

Help me figure out this issue:

I hear low frequency noise (some kind of hum) from my surround channels (my rear speakers) only when I select a video source such as TV, DVD.

I do not hear such noise when I select an audio source such as CD or digital server.

Both the TV and DVD are connected via HDMI.

The CD is connected via analog. The Digital server via coaxial digital.

I think that have isolated the issue to the HDMI cables. With the amp and preamp turned on and the HDMI cables disconnected from the pre-amp, the noise is gone. When I plug in the HDMI cables into the D2, the noise returns.

Can HDMI cables pick up noise?

I thought all going through them was digital data. Any suggestions? Do insulated HDMI cables even exist?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16442957
> 
> 
> Help me figure out this issue:
> 
> I hear low frequency noise (some kind of hum) from my surround channels (my rear speakers) only when I select a video source such as TV, DVD.
> 
> I do not hear such noise when I select an audio source such as CD or digital server.
> 
> Both the TV and DVD are connected via HDMI.
> 
> The CD is connected via analog. The Digital server via coaxial digital.
> 
> I think that have isolated the issue to the HDMI cables. With the amp and preamp turned on and the HDMI cables disconnected from the pre-amp, the noise is gone. When I plug in the HDMI cables into the D2, the noise returns.
> 
> Can HDMI cables pick up noise?
> 
> I thought all going through them was digital data. Any suggestions? Do insulated HDMI cables even exist?



Sounds to me like you have a classic case of 60Hz "ground loop" hum. This is garbage (typically power line interference -- thus 60Hz) that gets into your collection of equipment and travels from box to box via the cable shields of the cables connecting them. Eventually it finds a path back to ground -- usually on the power cord of one of your boxes -- and that completes the circuit -- the ground loop.


The single most common source of this stuff is garbage coming in on the cable shield of the feed wire for a cable or satellite TV system.


So temporarily disconnect the cable/satellite feed wire between the wall and your cable/satellite box. If the hum problem goes away then that's your culprit. You can fix this by properly grounding the cable/satellite feed where it enters your house and making sure the connections are tight and not corroded between there and your system.


For more help understanding and taming ground loops see the "Hum FAQ" sticky thread in the Audio Theory forum here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem's password protected download site was updated yesterday to include a "test" version of PBK support for the Paradigm x-850. This is the rack-mount subwoofer amp that is used with Paradigm's new in-wall subwoofers.


Again, PBK is the subwoofer-only repackaging of ARC for use by folks who don't have an ARC-capable Anthem processor. If you have ARC, you don't need PBK.


The "test" PBK software is in "Link 6" on that password protected page.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

My second case of Richard Syndrome has been confirmed by the dealer. My center channel is acting up and will have to go to the factory for repair.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Cool! Speaker fixes plus ARC should make you a very happy camper.

--Bob


----------



## radubinsky




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16407770
> 
> 
> I have used various versions of the 8300 for years, pvr included. Every one of them has had volume discrepencies between the analog and hd channels. Analog being very LOUD in comparison to HD. There is no adjustment for this that I am aware of, and it occurs over digital coax and hdmi (I have never connected using analog rca). I just turn the volume down when I watch the analog feeds... which is normally just for the local news.
> 
> 
> Maybe the Dolby Volume solution will do this automatically when it arrives via software, but I guess I'm just used to riding the volume control. Commercials are still insanely loud no matter what feed you're watching, for instance.



Motorola cable boxes have a dynamic compression setting in the user menu. If you set this to 'narrow,' loud scenes and quiet scenes are mashed closer together in volume.


----------



## Warpdrv

Well, I can finally say I'm part of the cool kids thread !!!!! Got my D2v today, ordered March 2nd.


Went through all the setup and hookup and first basic measurement....


Even after the very first most basic measurement all I can say is WOW !!!

It really sounds fantastic in my difficult room... So far I am very very impressed, things have never sounded so good, and I only played a couple songs, and need to do more advanced tweaking to be sure.


Here are my first measurements, didn't go advanced yet to edit the targets page.... They look pretty good to me, but giver a look see Bob..


Im surprised my subs are dropping off so early, 3x18 + 1x15, though the room is ridiculously large - 8200^3 open to everywhere...


----------



## facke02

Congrats and welcome to the club. I take it the wait was worth it...


----------



## Warpdrv

Thanks Ken..... Yes, so far a huge improvement, looks like I have to up my crossover, my Mal-X subs do upper bass far better then my Studio 100's, and up the Max eq target up higher and see what it does for the roll off of the upper end, but it is far less bright in here, I still haven't gotten my carpet which will make a huge difference in the measurements as well... I also have to take the SMS-1 out of the mix and go directly to my amps driving the subs to see how it measures.... though my DIY sealed subs generally need some boost down low to correct the rolloff..


Ken I can't thank you enough for your help in my decision to get the D2v...


----------



## Nick HT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16433959
> 
> 
> I am having trouble getting either DTS or DD5.1 from the Coax Digital Record outputs of my D2v. Using Coax from an DV79Avi and Optical from a DirectV DVR results in only 2 channel output even though the D2v is recognising the DD5.1 or DTS audio. I've tried both 16 and 24 bit in the Audio output setup.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions. Thanks!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16434141
> 
> 
> I haven't tried using these with the D2v. Give Anthem tech support a call, you may have found a new bug. Please do report back what you find out.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob -- I Got a quick response from Nick at Anthem support:


I was using copy mode with audio input assigned to coax and optical for each of the sources. Apparantly this implements a 2 ch PCM downmix. There is nothing in the manual that I could see to document this (unlike the clear notation on second HDMI output for aux displays).


Using the independent REC source works fine for both DD and DTS (however my experience having now done this is that it's a pain, especially to reliably program into a remote macro







) so I've asked Nick if there us there a reason not to have REC copy mode pass thru DD/DTS as the manual implies. If this was implemented an enhancement would then be to allow downmix to be selected in the audio out config output set up.


I am using the REC output to stream audio to a second room along with the second HDMI output (given that HDMI downmixes to 2 ch PCM). I have to believe that other buyers will want to implement this given the video/audio switching capabilities of the D2v.


Meanwhile I'm really enjoying the improved audio quality from ARC -- BD, SACD, and DVD sources all have a new clarity!!


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16448663
> 
> 
> Ken I can't thank you enough for your help in my decision to get the D2v...



what was your other choice? the AVM 50v?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16448406
> 
> 
> Well, I can finally say I'm part of the cool kids thread !!!!! Got my D2v today, ordered March 2nd.
> 
> 
> Went through all the setup and hookup and first basic measurement....
> 
> 
> Even after the very first most basic measurement all I can say is WOW !!!
> 
> It really sounds fantastic in my difficult room... So far I am very very impressed, things have never sounded so good, and I only played a couple songs, and need to do more advanced tweaking to be sure.
> 
> 
> Here are my first measurements, didn't go advanced yet to edit the targets page.... They look pretty good to me, but giver a look see Bob..
> 
> 
> Im surprised my subs are dropping off so early, 3x18 + 1x15, though the room is ridiculously large - 8200^3 open to everywhere...



Definitely lots of improvements with ARC. A couple of initial impressions:


1) You probably want to try to up the max frequency to 20K, as you have a lot of dropoff at the high end. Which is weird given the speakers you have, and the treatments, so maybe you have weird measurements, or bad sound cancellation going on?


2) With the amount of bass you have in that room (3 or 4 subs, right?), I'm surprised to see it dropping off so high. I'd expect strong sub-25Hz performance, but you're falling off a cliff at 30Hz. Make sure you turn off all the built-in sub crossover and EQ stuff, and remove any SMS-1-type things you have in place.


3) Your FL and C look similar, but your FR looks very different at the low-end. I'm guessing this is due to the bay window? ARC is compensating though, so you should be okay. I'd leave the crossover for the fronts where ARC wants to put it, so you avoid the low-end variations across the front soundstage. Or, try to get them to look the same? It always seems a shame to me to have something like the 100's, then sort of castrate them by crossing them over at 80Hz...


Anyway, looks like a big improvement, but some surprises. Let me know what you think? (I'm assuming this is your downstairs room, not your bedroom.)


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16448663
> 
> 
> Thanks Ken..... Yes, so far a huge improvement, looks like I have to up my crossover, my Mal-X subs do upper bass far better then my Studio 100's, and up the Max eq target up higher and see what it does for the roll off of the upper end, but it is far less bright in here, I still haven't gotten my carpet which will make a huge difference in the measurements as well... I also have to take the SMS-1 out of the mix and go directly to my amps driving the subs to see how it measures.... though my DIY sealed subs generally need some boost down low to correct the rolloff..
> 
> 
> Ken I can't thank you enough for your help in my decision to get the D2v...



Patrick,


You're quite welcome, I had a hunch you'd be impressed with it. Looks like you're in for some fun getting it tweaked for your room. I'm sure you'll get it sounding just like you want. Enjoy the new gear...


----------



## Warpdrv

Thanks - I'm going to try that Mark.....


The FR is probably getting some boundary compensation being close to a wall, but there is a good amount of treatment back behind is where it sits - the LF is more out in the open if you will, that is the one by the bay window - maybe more openness and reflection coming off that area of the room....


I will be trying measurements with Max eq higher up to see what improves... As well as removing the SMS-1 for measurements down the line...


I will tell you that the DIY Mal-X subs are way better at upper bass then any speaker I have heard except Mark Seatons Catalysts, so I have no problem (Castrating) my studio's with what I have invested in sweat and love in my DIY subs.... they will put a serious smile on your face and scare the [email protected] out of you as well... trust me on this... done some serious measuring with these bad boys... 4000w pro amps driving each







Appreciate you input buddy...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16448705
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob -- I Got a quick response from Nick at Anthem support:
> 
> 
> I was using copy mode with audio input assigned to coax and optical for each of the sources. Apparantly this implements a 2 ch PCM downmix. There is nothing in the manual that I could see to document this (unlike the clear notation on second HDMI output for aux displays).
> 
> 
> Using the independent REC source works fine for both DD and DTS (however my experience having now done this is that it's a pain, especially to reliably program into a remote macro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) so I've asked Nick if there us there a reason not to have REC copy mode pass thru DD/DTS as the manual implies. If this was implemented an enhancement would then be to allow downmix to be selected in the audio out config output set up.
> 
> 
> I am using the REC output to stream audio to a second room along with the second HDMI output (given that HDMI downmixes to 2 ch PCM). I have to believe that other buyers will want to implement this given the video/audio switching capabilities of the D2v.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile I'm really enjoying the improved audio quality from ARC -- BD, SACD, and DVD sources all have a new clarity!!



Interesting!


Reading Manual Section 4.3 on stereo down-mixing, and also Section 4.2 on path selection, I can see that the stereo down-mix is implied, although, like you, I thought that ONLY applied to the stereo analog outputs for each path -- not for the Digital output.


Please do report back how your discussion goes with Nick on using the Digital output as kind of a digital version of Zone 2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16448406
> 
> 
> Well, I can finally say I'm part of the cool kids thread !!!!! Got my D2v today, ordered March 2nd.
> 
> 
> Went through all the setup and hookup and first basic measurement....
> 
> 
> Even after the very first most basic measurement all I can say is WOW !!!
> 
> It really sounds fantastic in my difficult room... So far I am very very impressed, things have never sounded so good, and I only played a couple songs, and need to do more advanced tweaking to be sure.
> 
> 
> Here are my first measurements, didn't go advanced yet to edit the targets page.... They look pretty good to me, but giver a look see Bob..
> 
> 
> Im surprised my subs are dropping off so early, 3x18 + 1x15, though the room is ridiculously large - 8200^3 open to everywhere...



More Cool Kids! If we get any cooler, we'll have to wear shades!


I suspect your bass problem is due to the SMS-1. By default, the Velodyne EQ is likely applying a subsonic filter that kicks in around 25 or 30Hz.


Even if you want to continue using the SMS-1 for phase control (for example), you should disable it's internal crossover for the subs and also any subsonic filter it is applying. Let ARC take care of all that.


As it is, your sub combo doesn't measure quite as bad as it might appear at first glance. Keep in mind that ARC is preserving nearly 4dB of Room Gain in your setup, and so you have a hump in your sub response. Find the "basic volume level" of your ARC solution -- the flat part of the Target curves to the right of the crossover frequencies -- and see where the sub crosses that volume level as it drops down at the lower frequencies.


In your charts, the basic volume level is around 72dB, and that means your sub combo is giving good output down to 25Hz. It's the drop-off BELOW 25Hz that's probably being caused by the subsonic filter in the SMS-1.


From the red Measured curve for the subwoofer, it also looks like the SMS-1 is applying its own crossover to the high end of the sub response -- probably around 80Hz. Either that or you have internal crossovers active in one or more of the subs themselves. Disable ALL of those and let ARC handle sub crossover processing.


I haven't used an SMS-1 myself, but the Velodyne EQ stuff in my DD series sub has a preset (Preset 6) which disables the EQ stuff. That's what you should be looking for. In addition, there's a setting for disabling crossover processing. In the DD series sub you select the primary crossover value and hit reset and all the crossover items change to NA.


Or, of course, you could just remove the SMS-1 entirely, but then you'd have to adjust volume and phase in each of your subwoofers individually.


---------------------------------------------


Except for the sub situation, you don't have any significant problems. You just have to raise Max EQ Frequency target and re-Calculate/Upload to tell ARC it is OK to apply corrections higher than 5KHz.


All of your speakers Measure somewhat weak in the highest frequencies, so before you do your next ARC Measurement pass, revisit how you have your speakers pointed. For speakers not already mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to vertical pointing. For LF/RF, you will likely want to toe-in the speakers a bit, but don't swing them all the way in to pointing at ARC mic position #1. As a rule of thumb I suggest swinging them no more than 1/3 of the way in towards mic #1.


ARC will correct most of the high frequency stuff (once you raise Max EQ Frequency target), but it is always a good idea to take simple steps to reduce the amount of work ARC needs to do.


--------------------------------


Along those lines, all of your main speakers agree that you have a room cancellation null around 50Hz. (Your combo of subs already has that fixed in their case.) ARC has that under control as you can see, but look for problems near there when you raise Max EQ Frequency. A smaller problem also exists near 150-200Hz in LF/RF/C. If you see more wobbles in the green Calculated curve, back off on Max EQ Frequency and look for a nice compromise setting.


Some bass traps might help with those room nulls, and eliminate any need to compromise.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Apple Mac OS X 10.5.7 Makes Anthem Manuals Readable Again*


Anthem uses Adobe Acrobat to create its manuals, and a while back they "upgraded" to the newest version of Acrobat (V9) which had a nasty consequence for Mac users. The security put into the PDF files by Acrobat 9 was causing application crashes on the Mac. In particular the Preview application, which is the default PDF viewer on the Mac, would crash when attempting to open these manuals. Apple's Safari browser also crashed, and a system process related to indexing files for searches also crashed.


The workaround was to install Adobe's free Reader application for the Mac and use that to open these files (although the indexing system process still barfed on them).


Yesterday, Apple released the 10.5.7 system software upgrade for the Mac. I've tested the Anthem manuals using the new Apple software and I'm happy to say that there are no more application crashes. So if you are a Mac user, upgrade to 10.5.7 and you can go back to using Preview for viewing the Anthem manuals.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Additional "Test" PBK V1.02.0 Software Appears on Password Protected Download Page*


Anthem has again updated "Link 6" on their password protected download page with additional software related to Perfect Bass Kit V1.02.0 (PBK). Reading the text files it looks like what has been added is firmware updates for the various subwoofers (and the X-850 sub amp) that need to be applied before you use PBK V1.02 with them.


Again, ARC users do not need PBK. ARC already handles subwoofer stuff for you. PBK is a subwoofer-only repackaging of ARC for folks who don't have an ARC-capable Anthem processor but do have one of Paradigm's newest subs.

--Bob


----------



## Ron Alcasid

Does anyone own the AVM40? Does it have issues with HDMI handshaking since it only passes thru? I love my 50 but every now and then it doesn't sync up with some sources. I can usually fix it by switching to another source and back but it get annoying sometimes.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" D2v/AVM50v Firmware V2.04c Now Up on Password Protected Download Page!*


New "test" firmware V2.04c for the D2v and AVM 50v has appeared on Anthem's password protected download page this evening. Change notes from the current "official" version (V2.04) read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.04c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. New EDID code fixes for computers/servers as HDMI sources, including AppleTV. May also help cases where two different brand displays do not work at the same time (if you ran into this problem with the release version please let us know either way).
> 
> 
> 2. Snap/crackle/pop fixes and various other fixes to improve stability.
> 
> 
> 3. Limited implementation of inverse telecine (not totally stable). Use only if experimenting - set output to 1080p24 and frame lock to auto. It's normal for handshake to take longer.



As always, folks should be aware that "test" software is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises -- meaning you might have to roll back to V2.04 from the public download page. Backup your Setup menu settings with SettingsBackup utility and your Video Source Adjust menu settings with LiveVideoSettingsEditor utility -- both found in the Utilities folder of the ARC V2.1 install kit on Anthem's public download page.


In the unlikely event you are not already running V2.04, be sure to read the entire text file that comes with this software as there are important additional instructions that affect folks upgrading from older firmware.


The inverse telecine feature is only relevant to folks who have displays that accept 1080p/24 as input and display it at a refresh rate which is a multiple of 24 frames per second -- usually 48 or 72 but perhaps up to 120. This is for use when watching movies that have been raised to video frame rate for viewing on traditional TVs -- e.g., movies on SDTV or HDTV or on SD-DVD discs. The idea is to extract the original movie rate content out of that and send that on to the TV for "cadence judder free" viewing. You do *NOT* need this to watch 1080p/24 movie content off of Blu-Ray discs since those are already at movie rate.


---------------------------------


ETA: The "test" version of SetupEditor utility, V2.00e, is also included in this download. Previously, this "test" version was identified as being for the D2v and AVM 50v only, but it doesn't say that this time, and there is no explanation in the text files as to what's really going on. For now I recommend you only try it with D2v or AVM 50v firmware V2.04 or later. SetupEditor V2.00e is apparently a reincarnation of the old SetupEditor utility that allowed viewing and editing of Setup menu settings from your PC. I still haven't tried it yet.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16454393
> 
> 
> More Cool Kids! If we get any cooler, we'll have to wear shades!
> 
> 
> I suspect your bass problem is due to the SMS-1. By default, the Velodyne EQ is likely applying a subsonic filter that kicks in around 25 or 30Hz.
> 
> 
> Even if you want to continue using the SMS-1 for phase control (for example), you should disable it's internal crossover for the subs and also any subsonic filter it is applying. Let ARC take care of all that.
> 
> 
> As it is, your sub combo doesn't measure quite as bad as it might appear at first glance. Keep in mind that ARC is preserving nearly 4dB of Room Gain in your setup, and so you have a hump in your sub response. Find the "basic volume level" of your ARC solution -- the flat part of the Target curves to the right of the crossover frequencies -- and see where the sub crosses that volume level as it drops down at the lower frequencies.
> 
> 
> In your charts, the basic volume level is around 72dB, and that means your sub combo is giving good output down to 25Hz. It's the drop-off BELOW 25Hz that's probably being caused by the subsonic filter in the SMS-1.
> 
> 
> From the red Measured curve for the subwoofer, it also looks like the SMS-1 is applying its own crossover to the high end of the sub response -- probably around 80Hz. Either that or you have internal crossovers active in one or more of the subs themselves. Disable ALL of those and let ARC handle sub crossover processing.
> 
> 
> I haven't used an SMS-1 myself, but the Velodyne EQ stuff in my DD series sub has a preset (Preset 6) which disables the EQ stuff. That's what you should be looking for. In addition, there's a setting for disabling crossover processing. In the DD series sub you select the primary crossover value and hit reset and all the crossover items change to NA.
> 
> 
> Or, of course, you could just remove the SMS-1 entirely, but then you'd have to adjust volume and phase in each of your subwoofers individually.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Except for the sub situation, you don't have any significant problems. You just have to raise Max EQ Frequency target and re-Calculate/Upload to tell ARC it is OK to apply corrections higher than 5KHz.
> 
> 
> All of your speakers Measure somewhat weak in the highest frequencies, so before you do your next ARC Measurement pass, revisit how you have your speakers pointed. For speakers not already mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to vertical pointing. For LF/RF, you will likely want to toe-in the speakers a bit, but don't swing them all the way in to pointing at ARC mic position #1. As a rule of thumb I suggest swinging them no more than 1/3 of the way in towards mic #1.
> 
> 
> ARC will correct most of the high frequency stuff (once you raise Max EQ Frequency target), but it is always a good idea to take simple steps to reduce the amount of work ARC needs to do.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------
> 
> 
> Along those lines, all of your main speakers agree that you have a room cancellation null around 50Hz. (Your combo of subs already has that fixed in their case.) ARC has that under control as you can see, but look for problems near there when you raise Max EQ Frequency. A smaller problem also exists near 150-200Hz in LF/RF/C. If you see more wobbles in the green Calculated curve, back off on Max EQ Frequency and look for a nice compromise setting.
> 
> 
> Some bass traps might help with those room nulls, and eliminate any need to compromise.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks for the reply Bob, I will look after speaker positioning a little closer, I am still using the anthem mic stand until my boom mic arrives, so maybe my height of measuring is at fault here - suggestions - ear level I would assume.... my surrounds are set a little high on the wall so I'll try to angle/adjust them lower if at all possible.


As you know, My subs are all DIY, and any commercial sealed sub employs a boost with EQ down low to get the subs FR flat like my JL F112 does.... I use the SMS to do just that... Velodyne had a problem with the early roll off of the SMS, but later had fixed that with a firmware update and it has been measured by 3rd parties and all is well with it now, and it has a good flat measurement down to 5hz. I only use the SMS to boost down low and leave the rest of the bands flat, as I know the D2v will handle this stuff better. Crossover is also disabled for the D2v to handle.


I have meticulously done the phasing on my subs so that is not an issue and don't use the SMS for that either.


I'll continue to take more measurements as I get more familiar with the unit, I have since taken 3 more measurement and uploaded the diff configs.


Can you expand on the basic volume level? do I need to adjust that higher to 75db?


1 other thing that has come up, I am getting a pink Hazing color every now and then, the whole picture is missing a certain color, is that an HDMI cable problem ?? After I reseated the HDMI cables and restarted it was fine, but nothing was touched from the last time I used it... hmmm


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16455460
> 
> 
> Can you expand on the basic volume level? do I need to adjust that higher to 75db?
> 
> 
> 1 other thing that has come up, I am getting a pink Hazing color every now and then, the whole picture is missing a certain color, is that an HDMI cable problem ?? After I reseated the HDMI cables and restarted it was fine, but nothing was touched from the last time I used it... hmmm



I wouldn't worry about the difference in basic volume level between the 72 you have now and the 75 normally recommended. Just check the speaker volume trims ARC is uploading into Setup > Level Calibration to make sure they are all within a few dB either side of 0dB. 72dB is high enough that ARC is probably hearing everything it needs to hear.


You can raise this by boosting Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level a couple dB. ARC uses that value to set the volume of its test sweep tones.


On your video issue, if you are getting normal moving imagery that is tinted shocking pink then that means there has been a miscommunication of the data format during the HDMI handshake (either from source to Anthem, or more commonly from Anthem to display). The source end is sending YCbCr and the destination end is expecting RGB. If you get it wrong the other way the result is video that is tinted ghastly green.


The usual fix for this is to set an explicit video data format rather than using the Auto setting. For HDMI to HDMI connections that would typically be YCbCr 4:4:4. For HDMI to DVI connections that would typically be Studio RGB.


Loose or marginal cables can cause handshake failures like this. Sometimes just the weight of the HDMI cable can shift the plug in the socket enough to make a difference.


ETA: I know the SMS-1 can be flat down low, but I believe there is a setting you need to make to disable its subsonic filter -- which is on by factory default.

--Bob


----------



## Nick HT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16448705
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob -- I Got a quick response from Nick at Anthem support:
> 
> 
> I was using copy mode with audio input assigned to coax and optical for each of the sources. Apparantly this implements a 2 ch PCM downmix. There is nothing in the manual that I could see to document this (unlike the clear notation on second HDMI output for aux displays).
> 
> 
> Using the independent REC source works fine for both DD and DTS (however my experience having now done this is that it's a pain, especially to reliably program into a remote macro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) so I've asked Nick if there us there a reason not to have REC copy mode pass thru DD/DTS as the manual implies. If this was implemented an enhancement would then be to allow downmix to be selected in the audio out config output set up.
> 
> 
> I am using the REC output to stream audio to a second room along with the second HDMI output (given that HDMI downmixes to 2 ch PCM). I have to believe that other buyers will want to implement this given the video/audio switching capabilities of the D2v.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile I'm really enjoying the improved audio quality from ARC -- BD, SACD, and DVD sources all have a new clarity!!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16454207
> 
> 
> Interesting!
> 
> 
> Reading Manual Section 4.3 on stereo down-mixing, and also Section 4.2 on path selection, I can see that the stereo down-mix is implied, although, like you, I thought that ONLY applied to the stereo analog outputs for each path -- not for the Digital output.
> 
> 
> Please do report back how your discussion goes with Nick on using the Digital output as kind of a digital version of Zone 2.
> 
> --Bob



Nick got back to me -- he agrees that section 4.3 of the manual is not correct. He went on to say "Downmixing in copy mode is the intended behavior, giving the same options as bitsream vs PCM, which all disc players and digital boxes have."


This is disappointing as I'd planned to use this as a digital version of Zone 2, as I had with my prior pre-pro. Doesn't sound like there's any hope of an enhancement, so I'm stuck with trying to robustly program macros in the remote to manually copy the multi channel audio streams to REC.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16455614
> 
> 
> 
> The usual fix for this is to set an explicit video data format rather than using the Auto setting. For HDMI to HDMI connections that would typically be YCbCr 4:4:4. For HDMI to DVI connections that would typically be Studio RGB.
> 
> 
> Loose or marginal cables can cause handshake failures like this. Sometimes just the weight of the HDMI cable can shift the plug in the socket enough to make a difference.
> 
> 
> ETA: I know the SMS-1 can be flat down low, but I believe there is a setting you need to make to disable its subsonic filter -- which is on by factory default.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you my friend...


Made the adjustment to 4:4:4, I'll keep an eye on performance from there.... One of my cables isn't the best, I'll replace it as well...


On the SMS - the only way to disable it is to dial it all the way down to 4hz, there is no off....


At this point, it sounds great and I'm getting output well down into the teens measured with test tones, so my low end is a non issue at this point, still fun to get it tweaked to top notch performance though...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16455633
> 
> 
> This is disappointing as I'd planned to use this as a digital version of Zone 2, as I had with my prior pre-pro. Doesn't sound like there's any hope of an enhancement, so I'm stuck with trying to robustly program macros in the remote to manually copy the multi channel audio streams to REC.



I suspect it would be easiest to think of the Record path as a separate device (which just happens to be in the same box) and to set things up so that a source selection involves two "processor" devices -- the Main path and the Record path.

--Bob


----------



## grafcom

Hello all... Just wanted to update my experiences to the group on my D2 HDCP handshaking problem I wrote on a few weeks ago.


First, shortly after my posts I had a good email dialogue with Nick on it. He insisted that they had been working on the issue (along with many other similar issues) but that the "fix" was not going to be an easy thing to implement. We talked further about the fact that in there testing of the Runco equip. with the D2v, the problems did not exist. To make a long story short here, because I had been dealing with this problem since late last year, they agreed to upgrade my D2 to a D2v by swapping it out at what I thought to be a fair price. I had intended to do this whenever upgrades became available anyway.


They were very accomodating and I was quite pleased with their concern in finding a solution for me. In a few days, my new D2v arrived and sure enough, all HDMI/HDCP issues vanished. However, I did have a new problem of a rhythmic hissing noise that was completely tied to any input from a Dolby source. It primarily came from the left and center channels, but was somewhat noticable in all. Switching to all channel stereo eliminated the noise. After emailing Nick about it, they were mystified about the cause having not heard of it before, but honed in on the DSP board. They overnighted one to me (which was very easily swapped out) and voila!... all clear! I'm sending the bad one back to them to possibly diagnose it a bit more, but it clearly seemed to be the luck of the draw of a component failure on it.


None the less....I have a perfectly working unit now and am enjoying it imensely. I can't say enough in praise of the Anthem crew in how prompt they were to take care of this second issue. I'm a very happy camper now!


----------



## spiderv6

There you go, another example of the awesome level of support these guys provide.


And to update everyone on my bad HDMI-1 issue, I installed my replacement unit over the weekend and it is working superbly! In my case both the dealer and Anthem were excellent throughout.


----------



## obie_fl

Damn I need to figure out a way to get Anthem to replace my D2 with a D2v before the upgrade.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16458504
> 
> 
> Damn I need to figure out a way to get Anthem to replace my D2 with a D2v before the upgrade.



Considering that their backlog situation is not getting better and as a results the upgrade will not happen before a while, I have the feeling that my D2 is getting seriously sick and will need sudden repair.


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Does the inverse telecine improve the SD quality or is it just a convenience for us 1080p 24 guys so we can use one video setup.?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16458773
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Does the inverse telecine improve the SD quality or is it just a convenience for us 1080p 24 guys so we can use one video setup.?
> 
> John



Its only purpose is to produce judder free viewing of films that have been previously raised to video rate for TV broadcast or to put on SD-DVD discs.


Keep in mind that it is not likely to work well on films that have been poorly transferred to digital format. For example, early telecine involved playing the film into a video camera so that there was no useful relationship between frames of the film and fields in the interlaced video. You can't extract the original frame rate content out of such stuff.


If you have a judder free display (one that accepts 1080p/24 and displays it at a multiple of 24), and you like what you get when you send it 1080p/24 from Blu-Ray movies (as opposed to 1080p/60), then try the inverse telecine stuff with your SD-DVD movies (telecine processed to 480i/60) and your SD and HDTV movies (telecine processed to 480i/60 and 1080i/60). But be prepared to revert back to 1080p/60 if you find the Anthem can't find the cadence in the film. You'll know there is a problem if you see stuttering or tearing of the image.


Most such problems will come from films that have been badly edited in the process of conversion to digital -- cadence breaks due to poorly implemented edits, and mixed film rate and video rate content due to video based editing of special effects.


Also, don't try to force 1080p/24 output of real, video based content -- 1080i/60 Blu-Ray content (live concerts), or normal TV shows (particularly live shows or sports events). That can't possibly work and you will see stuttering as there is no way to know which frames to discard to lower 60 or 30fps to 24fps.


But some TV series, even those shot with video cameras, are actually shot at 24fps, so you may find that some HDTV series for example work well with 1080p/24 even though they are not movies.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay

Bob...help me figure this one out. Why would ARC use two different correction curves for the 2-ch input and the AUX input. Also why is it applying a -15 dB shelf to the low end of the 2-ch input. All settings are the same, bass management is movie for both etc.


I'm afraid I've lost all confidence in ARC at this point so I have to leave it tuned off until I have the time to fully evaluate everything it's doing. Right now I don't have a way to make these same test on the digital inputs and the attached transfer function curves destroy all confidence of any consistency in this thing so I can't just test the analog inputs and assume the digital corrections behave the same way.


Monte


Update: This thing isn't even consistent among the other analog inputs. Well of the four I tested three are consistent, one is not. In the new jgp you can see what appears to be one curve that levels off at -20 dB at high frequency. Actually this is three curves, VCR, TV, and Aux. The other curve is CD. As you can see the difference ranges from about 0 dB around 40 Hz to 3 dB or more at other frequencies. All settings for the four inputs are the same. Also if you turn DSP off by using the AnlgDir inputs, all four curves are identically flat at the same level.


So, I have one more question for you Bob and maybe I just need to hook the pc back up to the D2 and will find the answer right away but I want to know how to completely purge the ARC from the unit. I've just sent an e-mail to Nick letting him know they're getting it back. I did say that if they can analyze it closer there and then promise corrections to resolve the issues that I would keep it however so hopefully that will be the case.


mk


----------



## jayray

Thanks Bob,

John


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Did Anthem ever come out with 1.34 firmware update for the D2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16459382
> 
> 
> Bob...help me figure this one out. Why would ARC use two different correction curves for the 2-ch input and the AUX input. Also why is it applying a -15 dB shelf to the low end of the 2-ch input. All settings are the same, bass management is movie for both etc.
> 
> 
> I'm afraid I've lost all confidence in ARC at this point so I have to leave it tuned off until I have the time to fully evaluate everything it's doing. Right now I don't have a way to make these same test on the digital inputs and the attached transfer function curves destroy all confidence of any consistency in this thing so I can't just test the analog inputs and assume the digital corrections behave the same way.
> 
> 
> Monte
> 
> 
> Update: This thing isn't even consistent among the other analog inputs. Well of the four I tested three are consistent, one is not. In the new jgp you can see what appears to be one curve that levels off at -20 dB at high frequency. Actually this is three curves, VCR, TV, and Aux. The other curve is CD. As you can see the difference ranges from about 0 dB around 40 Hz to 3 dB or more at other frequencies. All settings for the four inputs are the same. Also if you turn DSP off by using the AnlgDir inputs, all four curves are identically flat at the same level.
> 
> 
> So, I have one more question for you Bob and maybe I just need to hook the pc back up to the D2 and will find the answer right away but I want to know how to completely purge the ARC from the unit. I've just sent an e-mail to Nick letting him know they're getting it back. I did say that if they can analyze it closer there and then promise corrections to resolve the issues that I would keep it however so hopefully that will be the case.
> 
> 
> mk



To eliminate ARC processing turn off Room EQ in Setup > Source Setup for each source.


To erase the ARC data from the processor use the Erase button in ARC advanced mode. If you want to start completely from scratch, do that Erase in ARC advanced mode and then also to a Reload Factory Defaults in the Setup menu in the Anthem.


Either way, re-enter your preferred manual setting for crossovers, speaker volume trims, and the simpler EQ functions found in the Setup menu (such as Room Response Filter).


-------------------------------------------


I'm sorry I can't answer your questions on the charts as I don't know enough about how you are doing the measurement and what your settings are. For example, what surround mode do you have engaged for each source? Is THX post processing in use? Have you been playing with any of the "temporary" level adjustments available via the remote? How about your Dynamics setting? Etc.


Your experience with the analog inputs is certainly unusual. There may be a hardware issue, but I suspect there is something else simple going on here but I'd need to get full details on how you have things hooked up to test this, and the full set of settings you are using.


However it sounds like you've gone beyond that and are already setting up to return the unit, correct?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/16459807
> 
> 
> Did Anthem ever come out with 1.34 firmware update for the D2?



Not yet. Nick tells me it is coming, though. I don't have an ETA on that.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob,

I purchased a laptop with Win Vista. But the problem is, now a days there is no laptop with PS2 and Serial ports. I also purchased an adaper for PS2 to Serial but the Anthem manual says that is the least favored connection. What should I do? Will this connection I have now (one PS2 and and PS2 with adaper to convert to Serial) is good enough or should I return the laptop and possibly find one very old laptops with PS2 & a Serial connection?


----------



## lk100

Knowing that ARC puts the subwoofer crossover at about 75-85 hz, is there any advantage sonically using the larger center Chanel. Or is it more a consideration to match the dynamics of the center with the fronts. I'm auditioning the studio cc-590 to place between a pair of another brand of speakers. It seems to blend in well with the speakers, but I haven't remeasured ARC for the cc-590. Dealer says I should use cc-690. Room is 13' wide. Confused.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16460292
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> I purchased a laptop with Win Vista. But the problem is, now a days there is no laptop with PS2 and Serial ports. I also purchased an adaper for PS2 to Serial but the Anthem manual says that is the least favored connection. What should I do? Will this connection I have now (one PS2 and and PS2 with adaper to convert to Serial) is good enough or should I return the laptop and possibly find one very old laptops with PS2 & a Serial connection?



It's almost impossible to find a new laptop today with a built in serial connection.


I suggest you try the adapter you already have.


Another alternative is a PC-card serial adapter. PC-cards are the things about the size of a credit card that slide into a slot in the computer.


Most folks posting here are using USB/Serial adapters such as the Keyspan USA-19HS.


-------------------------------------


By the by, for folks who were using VMWare Fusion to run Windows on their Macs and having troubles using the Keyspan USB/Serial adapter, I passed on the info to Nick about the Belkin adapter that worked for you guys. He just sent an email back yesterday saying they got a report from another user who managed to get the Keyspan working with Fusion. I don't know if there's been an update to Fusion that made that work or if that user just found the magic combo of settings.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16460292
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> I purchased a laptop with Win Vista. But the problem is, now a days there is no laptop with PS2 and Serial ports. I also purchased an adaper for PS2 to Serial but the Anthem manual says that is the least favored connection. What should I do? Will this connection I have now (one PS2 and and PS2 with adaper to convert to Serial) is good enough or should I return the laptop and possibly find one very old laptops with PS2 & a Serial connection?




usxplong, take a look at this post
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post16388769 


PCMCIA to serial card works absolutely flawlessly with Vista, didn't even have to load drivers, had them built in... no USB to serial problems...


search ebay with this number "260393921111"


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100* /forum/post/16460374
> 
> 
> Knowing that ARC puts the subwoofer crossover at about 75-85 hz, is there any advantage sonically using the larger center Chanel. Or is it more a consideration to match the dynamics of the center with the fronts. I'm auditioning the studio cc-590 to place between a pair of another brand of speakers. It seems to blend in well with the speakers, but I haven't remeasured ARC for the cc-590. Dealer says I should use cc-690. Room is 13' wide. Confused.



ARC actually picks the crossovers according to what it Measures for all of the speakers in the mix. So if all of your speakers were full range, ARC would set the sub lower. But if some speakers are weak in bass, ARC sets the sub higher to cover for those, and adjusts the balance with respect to the more capable speakers.


My personal bias is to get a good sub and let it do the job, but whether or not you agree with that I think it is still the case that the most important thing with a Center is that it blend well with the timbre of your LF/RF speakers so that things are as seamless as possible as sounds move across the front sound stage.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Thanks Bob and Warpdrv.


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16459824
> 
> 
> To eliminate ARC processing turn off Room EQ in Setup > Source Setup for each source.
> 
> 
> To erase the ARC data from the processor use the Erase button in ARC advanced mode. If you want to start completely from scratch, do that Erase in ARC advanced mode and then also to a Reload Factory Defaults in the Setup menu in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Either way, re-enter your preferred manual setting for crossovers, speaker volume trims, and the simpler EQ functions found in the Setup menu (such as Room Response Filter).
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I'm sorry I can't answer your questions on the charts as I don't know enough about how you are doing the measurement and what your settings are. For example, what surround mode do you have engaged for each source? Is THX post processing in use? Have you been playing with any of the "temporary" level adjustments available via the remote? How about your Dynamics setting? Etc.
> 
> 
> Your experience with the analog inputs is certainly unusual. There may be a hardware issue, but I suspect there is something else simple going on here but I'd need to get full details on how you have things hooked up to test this, and the full set of settings you are using.
> 
> 
> However it sounds like you've gone beyond that and are already setting up to return the unit, correct?
> 
> --Bob



Yeah it's already all boxed up and ready to go home. I did find the erase button, thanks.


The measurements are simple loop measurements, the stimulus connects to the input and the D2 main output then connects back to the measurement system so there are no speakers or room involved. I eliminated as many variables as I could find. I made movie and music bass management the same and then also set them all to movie. I verified all the input source levels were at zero. I went to mode and set the sources all to stereo. I bypassed the tone controls.


I did once scroll through all the surround modes etc using the mode button and volume knob on the unit and could see the effect of surround low frequency being rerouted to the mains by setting the surrounds to small speaker and changing their crossover frequency but nothing resolved the problem with the low end roll off or explained why the total window of the ARC correction is less than 4 dB for 2-ch and almost 15 dB for the other analog inputs.


My problem is that this thing seems to be unpredictable. Also, I can't easily determine how it is behaving using the digital inputs so I have no way to insure it's not doing something stupid. So quite simply, I can't trust it. I can trust ARTA and Praxis or MLSSA. These are all far more advanced measurement systems than ARC. I can approximate corrections with the Behringer crossover but I really need a better solution there. That's the one advantage of ARC is that it can arbitrarily manipulate the transfer function without being limited to conventional analog filter functions. I just need to find a digital EQ that will allow me to enter any transfer function I want. Then I can use the more advanced measurement equipment to generate spatial average measurements based on an unlimited number of test points and then create an exact correction curve to load into the digital EQ. Problem is I may have to build the digital EQ or use a PC/sound-card based system. At least then there will never be any question as to what the EQ is doing and it will be consistent among sources since it will be independent of the D2. Then I only have to worry about other settings unrelated to ARC being wrong but that should be easy to manage.


I have come to the conclusion ARC has been poorly implemented and not properly characterized by it's designers. If they will put a little effort into evaluating exactly what it's doing they should be able to resolve the issues and then I might be interested in trying it again but for now it's going back to the store.


Monte


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16460398
> 
> 
> usxplong, take a look at this post
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post16388769
> 
> 
> PCMCIA to serial card works absolutely flawlessly with Vista, didn't even have to load drivers, had them built in... no USB to serial problems...
> 
> 
> search ebay with this number "260393921111"



Warpdrv,

I check the link you provided. That is using the CardBus and my laptop is using the ExpressCard 34 and 54. Will that work?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16460823
> 
> 
> I have come to the conclusion ARC has been poorly implemented and not properly characterized by it's designers. If they will put a little effort into evaluating exactly what it's doing they should be able to resolve the issues and then I might be interested in trying it again but for now it's going back to the store.
> 
> 
> Monte



I'm surprised you came to that conclusion as it certainly runs counter to the experience of others here. I don't know if there is a hardware problem in your unit, a setup problem, or if you have indeed found a bug. In any event, if it isn't working for you then by all means you should take advantage of whatever return arrangement you have.


Do you know if the dealer is sending the unit back to Anthem for service?

--Bob


----------



## jclem

I recently got new front Triad speakers, so I ran Arc again. (See the included charts.) I think the graphs look pretty good(please advise if you see anything of note)but I have a question regarding the cutoffs. Paul S (the "Triad dude") says the speakers are best set with a crossover at 80hz. I read the notes on the Targets page and it says that cutoffs and crossovers are not the same thing, but on these pages it seems like they are used interchangeably. If they are about the same, then should I change what Arc has set (60hz for all and sub at 120) to 80, leave it alone or compromise? BTW, my sub is a Thiel SS2 and it does not have a specific crossover setting dial, as you may know. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/16461153
> 
> 
> I recently got new front Triad speakers, so I ran Arc again. (See the included charts.) I think the graphs look pretty good(please advise if you see anything of note)but I have a question regarding the cutoffs. Paul S (the "Triad dude") says the speakers are best set with a crossover at 80hz. I read the notes on the Targets page and it says that cutoffs and crossovers are not the same thing, but on these pages it seems like they are used interchangeably. If they are about the same, then should I change what Arc has set (60hz for all and sub at 120) to 80, leave it alone or compromise? BTW, my sub is a Thiel SS2 and it does not have a specific crossover setting dial, as you may know. Thanks



Trust ARC's solution. The 60Hz cutoffs are fine.


If you check in Setup > Speaker Configuration I think you will find that ARC has Uploaded a lower bass management crossover for the subwoofer than the 120Hz room correction processing "cutoff" it shows in the ARC Targets window.


There are no significant problems in these ARC charts. What you have here should sound very good indeed!

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16461129
> 
> 
> I'm surprised you came to that conclusion as it certainly runs counter to the experience of others here. I don't know if there is a hardware problem in your unit, a setup problem, or if you have indeed found a bug. In any event, if it isn't working for you then by all means you should take advantage of whatever return arrangement you have.
> 
> 
> Do you know if the dealer is sending the unit back to Anthem for service?
> 
> --Bob



I would venture to guess no one else has made any measurements on exactly what ARC does to the transfer functions or checked to see if what it is doing is consistent among different sources. Probably most people just run it, like what they hear, and call it good.


Last night I didn't like what I heard when I played a particular pipe organ piece and the 16 Hz note at the end of one track was missing. I was then confused when I played it using the other player that connects through HDMI instead of the 2-ch analog input because the note came back. This is what lead me to do a little more testing to see what's going on. Previously a few weeks ago this problem didn't show up because I was testing through the Aux input which works ok. I never imagined there would be a consistency problem across inputs.


I don't know what the return policy is, I just know it isn't staying here. I sent an e-mail to my dealer but my regular sales guy is off today so I won't hear anything today probably.


mk


----------



## jclem

Will do. Thanks Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16461223
> 
> 
> I don't know what the return policy is, I just know it isn't staying here. I sent an e-mail to my dealer but my regular sales guy is off today so I won't hear anything today probably.
> 
> 
> mk



Well personally I think you are giving up too easily.


You like what you hear on the input channels that are working, correct?


I think you should work this problem with Anthem tech support to see if they can come up with a solution.


---------------------------------


The first thing to do when you get strange results from different inputs is to clear ALL of the temporary settings that might have been engaged, perhaps by accident, using the remote.


To do that, go into Setup and


1) Save User Settings


2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video at this point you can continue using the Front Panel display.


3) Reload Saved User Settings


The "temporary" settings are not saved, so this clears all of them at once.


--------------------------------------


Since you have isolated the problem to just a few inputs, I think Anthem tech support should be able to verify with you quite quickly on the phone whether there are any settings affecting those inputs that you might have overlooked.


The loss of bass on the 2-channel input should probably be the thing to focus on.


For example, does the severe bass difference between AUX and 2-channel still exist if Room EQ is turned OFF for both of them? If so, then ARC is not the culprit.


--------------------------------------


I can't recall any cases where corrupted software caused a situation like this, but another thing to try, before returning the unit, is to reload the firmware in the Anthem and see if the problem persists. Again, I would suggest you get on the phone with Anthem tech support and let them walk you through diagnosing this. They'll tell you when it might be appropriate to reinstall the firmware.


If it turns out you've got a hardware problem, I think you'll find Anthem quite easy to work with getting it taken care of.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16461399
> 
> 
> Well personally I think you are giving up too easily.
> 
> 
> You like what you hear on the input channels that are working, correct?
> 
> 
> I think you should work this problem with Anthem tech support to see if they can come up with a solution.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> The first thing to do when you get strange results from different inputs is to clear ALL of the temporary settings that might have been engaged, perhaps by accident, using the remote.
> 
> 
> To do that, go into Setup and
> 
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 
> 
> 2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video at this point you can continue using the Front Panel display.
> 
> 
> 3) Reload Saved User Settings
> 
> 
> The "temporary" settings are not saved, so this clears all of them at once.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Since you have isolated the problem to just a few inputs, I think Anthem tech support should be able to verify with you quite quickly on the phone whether there are any settings affecting those inputs that you might have overlooked.
> 
> 
> The loss of bass on the 2-channel input should probably be the thing to focus on.
> 
> 
> For example, does the severe bass difference between AUX and 2-channel still exist if Room EQ is turned OFF for both of them? If so, then ARC is not the culprit.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I can't recall any cases where corrupted software caused a situation like this, but another thing to try, before returning the unit, is to reload the firmware in the Anthem and see if the problem persists. Again, I would suggest you get on the phone with Anthem tech support and let them walk you through diagnosing this. They'll tell you when it might be appropriate to reinstall the firmware.
> 
> 
> If it turns out you've got a hardware problem, I think you'll find Anthem quite easy to work with getting it taken care of.
> 
> --Bob



If they can fix it I would probably keep it. Right now I can't get rid of it, the erase function claims to work but doesn't. After an erase I checked again and the corrections are still there when you turn on room correction. I just went to factory defaults and it's still there. Now I'm erasing again after resetting to factory defaults. We'll see what that does.


edit: btw factory defaults doesn't fix the roll off on 2 -ch. Also, if I turn room correction off I get a nice flat response all the way down.


erase still doesn't work.


mk


----------



## jayray

Bob,

With the oppo BD83, are you using the direct passthrough for BR and if you are, is it 4:2:2? Does the D2v recognize the 4:2:2 and do you notice anything diff from the 4:4:4 which I thought you were using with your PS3?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16461949
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> With the oppo BD83, are you using the direct passthrough for BR and if you are, is it 4:2:2? Does the D2v recognize the 4:2:2 and do you notice anything diff from the 4:4:4 which I thought you were using with your PS3?
> 
> John



I'm using YCbCr 4:4:4 from the BDP-83, with 36-bit video and 1080p/24 Auto.


YCbCr 4:2:2 from the BDP-83 results in slightly incorrect gray levels by the time it gets to my display as Studio RGB when using anything other than 480i from the Oppo (explicit or Source Direct from SD-DVD). It's not clear yet whether that's a problem in the Oppo or in the Anthem.


Source Direct from the Oppo will output the data format you select -- i.e., data format conversion still happens. If you select Auto format output to the D2v it will use YCbCr 4:4:4.


As it turns out, I'm using explicit 1080p from the Oppo for other reasons.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16461739
> 
> 
> btw factory defaults doesn't fix the roll off on 2 -ch. Also, if I turn room correction off I get a nice flat response all the way down.



I want to be clear here, when you say "turn room correction off" are you doing that by setting Room EQ = OFF or are you doing it by changing to Analog Direct input.


If the latter, try again but this time with Room EQ = OFF and see whether the bass problem still exists on 2-ch.


If the bass problem goes away when you turn Room EQ = OFF (without changing anything else) then it is definitely an ARC problem. If it remains (i.e., with Analog DSP selected but Room EQ=Off) then it is not an ARC problem -- it is either a setup problem or a hardware problem.


The fact that you are seeing what appears to be processing even after doing the Erase also suggests to me you have a setup or a hardware problem.

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk

Anyone have this combo. Looking for guidance on settings for multi-channel DVD-A, and SACD. D2 is recognizing the input as PCM. Is that right?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/16462124
> 
> 
> Anyone have this combo. Looking for guidance on settings for multi-channel DVD-A, and SACD. D2 is recognizing the input as PCM. Is that right?



Yes. To play DVD-A or SACD into the D2 you need a player that outputs those as high bandwidth multi-channel HDMI LPCM (or multi-channel analog if you prefer).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Montekay,

By the way, if you email your ARC results file (the actual data file, not just captures of the ARC charts) to Anthem tech support, they can pick it apart and see if anything strange is going on.

--Bob


----------



## akopperl

Does anyone know whether there is a difference in the correction capabilities between your speakers and subwoofer when using ARC? ARC's main competitor is Audyssey and the filter resolution for the subwoofer is far greater than that for your other speakers. Therefore, it can correct bass issues from the subwoofer far more effectively than bass issues from your mains which could be an issue if you run your mains full range.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem has not published any details about how ARC applies its resources.


I don't believe we have any results from folks posting here that would indicate ARC has any problem at all handling full range speakers.


We have a few posters who aren't using a sub at all and seem quite happy with the results with ARC.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16461223
> 
> 
> I would venture to guess no one else has made any measurements on exactly what ARC does to the transfer functions or checked to see if what it is doing is consistent among different sources. Probably most people just run it, like what they hear, and call it good.
> 
> Last night I didn't like what I heard when I played a particular pipe organ piece and the 16 Hz note at the end of one track was missing. I was then confused when I played it using the other player that connects through HDMI instead of the 2-ch analog input because the note came back. This is what lead me to do a little more testing to see what's going on. Previously a few weeks ago this problem didn't show up because I was testing through the Aux input which works ok. I never imagined there would be a consistency problem across inputs.
> 
> 
> I don't know what the return policy is, I just know it isn't staying here. I sent an e-mail to my dealer but my regular sales guy is off today so I won't hear anything today probably.
> 
> mk




I'm not sure I understand you. Are you saying you can't hear the note correctly when using player A connected by XLR to the '2-ch balanced'

input, but you are able to hear it when player A is connected to 'aux' and when player B is connected via hdmi? Were you connected to 'aux' by rca analog or coax/optical digital?

If the problem is only present with XLR, then there may be a problem in the balanced connection. Either in the player, the cables, or the Anthem.

Or the settings for the '2-ch' input might be wrong. Since the 16hz note is low enough that it would only be able to be reproduced in a subwoofer,(at least in my system) are you sure that your sub is active for that input? Do you have it set to 'analog' or 'analog dsp'. Bass management and ARC are only avialable in the 'analog dsp' setting.



You are free to return it if you aren't satisfied and your dealer is agreeable, but I would second Bob's suggestion that you work with Anthem tech. Anthem is excellent in standing behind their products.

Tom


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16463736
> 
> 
> I'm not sure I understand you. Are you saying you can't hear the note correctly when using player A connected by XLR to the '2-ch balanced'
> 
> input, but you are able to hear it when player A is connected to 'aux' and when player B is connected via hdmi? Were you connected to 'aux' by rca analog or coax/optical digital?
> 
> If the problem is only present with XLR, then there may be a problem in the balanced connection. Either in the player, the cables, or the Anthem.
> 
> Or the settings for the '2-ch' input might be wrong. Since the 16hz note is low enough that it would only be able to be reproduced in a subwoofer,(at least in my system) are you sure that your sub is active for that input? Do you have it set to 'analog' or 'analog dsp'. Bass management and ARC are only avialable in the 'analog dsp' setting.
> 
> 
> 
> You are free to return it if you aren't satisfied and your dealer is agreeable, but I would second Bob's suggestion that you work with Anthem tech. Anthem is excellent in standing behind their products.
> 
> Tom



I observed the missing notes while listening to an SACD player connected to the XLR 2-ch inputs. Measuring these inputs I observe a -15 dB shelf that attenuates everything below about 40 Hz by -15 dB. A -15 dB shelf as opposed to a typical crossover slope. This is not observable in the data I just sent Nick because the display cuts off at 20 Hz. In the data I sent him earlier, the display cut off at 10 Hz so it could be seen that the response flattened out again just below 20 Hz...a shelf.


I didn't connect this player to the AUX input but measurements of this input indicate that the -15 dB shelf is not effecting it. In this case I was using the analog RCA inputs.


The Blueray player is connected via HDMI and does not exhibit the problem.


My main speakers are composed of two parts, a main that covers from 50 Hz up and a woofer that covers from 50 Hz down. These use their own active crossover so the main speakers are set to large and subwoofer is set to none.


I have just composed a rather length e-mail for Nick which includes measurement data with explanations that I hope will prevent the miss communications he and I had yesterday. I can post it I suppose...


mk


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16459830
> 
> 
> Not yet. Nick tells me it is coming, though. I don't have an ETA on that.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I didn't remember seeing it released, but I know it had been mentioned. The ARC is currently 1.21 correct?


----------



## Montekay

Letter and data sent to Nick...


Hi Nick


I'm not sure where to start but I really think I have a lot of issues going on that go beyond ARC. This will end up being twenty pages if I try to cover everything in great detail so I'll try to summarize a list of the issues first. Maybe fixing one will fix multiple issues but right now my guess is that I have to ship the D2 to you for evaluation while I'm in the Philippines over the next few weeks.


I'm going to start with a series of notations to define the measurement conditions. That hopefully will help avoid having to explain things repeatedly for different questions or at all for that matter. For example, I will be asking in one case why the output increases about 4 dB at low frequency. It is included in the notes that all speakers are set to large (all crossovers off) so for this and similar examples I will not have to explain this 4 dB increase could not be due to redirected low frequency from another speaker. Hopefully these notes will be adequate to rule out concerns about obvious things like misadjusted tone control and other settings.


Note: All measurements are made using a swept sine wave.


Note: All measurements will be a loop measurement from a specified input through the main output using a 2-ch measurement where the other channel is used as a reference.


Note: All measurements will be made with the front panel tone controls in bypass mode unless otherwise stated. Also, unless otherwise stated, menu item, k within all sources (EQ) are set to 0 dB for both LF and HF.


Note: All measurements will be made in stereo mode, (no surround mode) unless otherwise stated.


Note: All measurements will be made with all speakers set to large, (all crossovers off)


Note: All measured sources are set to Movie bass management. Additionally, Music bass management is set to, same as movie.


Note: There are no subwoofers and no rears. All else are set to advanced with all crossovers set to off.


Note: Main speaker levels are set to + 3 dB. Center speaker level set to - 3 dB. Surround speakers levels are set to 0 dB. (surrounds are not level calibrated)


1. Let's start with an easy one to explain. I used the erase feature in ARC and the ARC corrections are still present. I erased, restored factory defaults, erased again a few times, the ARC corrections are still there. Is there any hard reset that I can try? Of course by turning room correction to off, they go away but with room correction on, the ARC correction is still there.



2. The AUX input has been arbitrarily chosen for this example: See attached measurement AUX 1. Three measurements have been over plotted here. First, the green line is with audio in g under source setup set to AnlgDir. Second, the blue line is with g set to AnlgDsp and room EQ Off and finally, the red line is with g set to AnlgDsp and room EQ on. Here my question is, why does the blue line rise about 4 dB at low frequency? Also, referring to item # 1 above, why do I see deviations in the red curve given that the ARC corrections have been erased?



3. In this case, a deviation is made from the notes. Item k EQ will be manipulated. The LF will remain at 0 dB and the HF will be measured at + 12 dB blue curve, 0 dB red curve, and -12 dB green curve. Again as per the notes, the front panel bass/treble remain bypassed. See measurement, HF EQ effect on LF. Notice that below about 200 Hz, the red and green curves converge and become one trace. The question here is why does the blue curve not do the same? Why does increasing the HF also increase the low frequency? Why did HF -12 dB green curve perform as expected and HF +12 dB blue curve did not perform as expected?



4. In this case, a deviation is made from the notes. Item k EQ will be manipulated. The HF will remain at 0 dB and the LF will be measured at +12 dB blue curve, 0 dB red curve, and -12 dB green curve. Again as per the notes, the front panel bass/treble remain bypassed. See measurement, LF EQ effect on HF. Notice there is no question here other than why did manipulating LF EQ perform as expected with no effect on HF while manipulating HF in item #3 above did not perform as expected?



5. The 2-ch input has been specifically chosen for this example. See attached measurement 2-ch. Three measurements have been over plotted. First, the green line is with audio in g under source setup set to AnlgDir. Second, the blue line is with g set to AnlgDsp and room EQ off and finally, the red line is with g set to AnlgDsp and room EQ on. Question 1: Why does the room EQ curve (red) here roll off below 50 Hz? Question 2: Why does the room EQ curve (red) have different EQ deviations than the red curve using the AUX input (item #2)? Question 3: Why does the AnlgDsp (room correction offblue curve) here not exhibit the + 4 dB low frequency boost seen in the AUX input blue curve?



6. The AUX input has been arbitrarily chosen and the CD input has been specifically chosen for this example. See measurement, CD 1. This is an over plot of the CD input blue line and the AUX input red line with both set to AnlgDsp and room EQ set to off. Also, the input levels are all set to 0 dB with the exception of AM/FM which is set to -5 dB. Question 1: Why is the CD output level different than the AUX? Question 2: Why is the difference not linear? (note that the separation between the two lines becomes less at low frequency) In this example AUX was arbitrarily chosen because AUX, TV, and VCR are known to overlay exactly and thus are assumed to be correct. CD was specifically chosen for this test because it is known to deviate. Notice in measurement CD AUX AnlgDir that the two curves overlay exactly. Here in AnlgDir, the CD and AUX inputs match exactly so the problem must be within the DSP. Again, the notes above are to avoid confusion and false conclusions being drawn about settings. The levels are set the same, 0 dB. AnlgDir shows AUX and CD are the same level while AnlgDsp shows they are not. Measurement, input variation is the same measurement e-mailed earlier today (now yesterday technically). This measurement indicates the deviation between AUX and CD remain with room EQ turned on. You can also see that the room EQ does not track between the two inputs.



Ok Nick I think we will stop with item 6 and save items 7 through 39 for later. I'm kidding about the 39;-) Still, I have to stop for now. I have very limited time at home and need to be spending some of it enjoying the equipment as opposed to analyzing it. I fully believe there are issues that are not going to be correctable simply by setting changes. I know this has been long but I hope you are still reading and that it didn't take as long for you to read and absorb this as it took to create it. Earlier today we had miss communications because I had made too many assumptions so hopefully this will better clarify the measurements as they were made.


I suspect it will be wise for me to return my D2 for evaluation and warranty repair if required. If you could make some of these same measurements on another D2 there we can determine if this is the case. If your D2 does not exhibit any of these issues then definitely I should send mine in. If however you find similar results on your D2 then you will not require having my unit. In that event corrections can be made there and implemented in a new firmware release.


Thanks for your time and understanding. Right now I believe some of these issues are limiting my enjoyment of the D2 regardless of the performance of ARC. In the event I would like to use any of the artificial surround modes that require an input be set to AnlgDsp I would be force to accept deviations to the system frequency response. I believe I should be able to use these features without this compromise so I do hope that together we can solve all these issues.



Monte


----------



## Montekay

Additional data sent to Nick...



Edit: Btw, I'm becoming increasing convinced that the problems are within the D2 itself not within ARC so I'll probably hold on to it a bit longer. Once the D2 is fixed ARC will probably work.


mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/16464248
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I didn't remember seeing it released, but I know it had been mentioned. The ARC is currently 1.21 correct?



No the current "official" ARC release for both the old and new processors is V2.1 -- available from Anthem's public download pages.


Pair that with firmware V1.33 for the D2 and AVM 50, or with firmware V2.04 for the D2v and AVM 50v.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16464266
> 
> 
> Additional data sent to Nick...
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Btw, I'm becoming increasing convinced that the problems are within the D2 itself not within ARC so I'll probably hold on to it a bit longer. Once the D2 is fixed ARC will probably work.
> 
> 
> mk



I agree. This doesn't look like an ARC problem (except for why Erase isn't working).


I suspect you have a hardware problem. If this was a system firmware problem we would have had more people complaining about loss of bass on their 2-ch inputs.


Anyway, you've detailed what needs to be detailed, so let's see what answers you get.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

While thinking about Montekay's problems I started to wonder- Why doesn't ARC measure, or chart the measurements, of subs and full-range speakers below 20Hz?

I would like to see what my sub is doing down there. Is it a technical limitation of ARC, or a choice of Anthem engineers, to not chart down lower than 20Hz?

Tom


----------



## Warpdrv

That is a good question, I also would like to see whats happening below 20hz as well...


Although I can easily hook up my laptop and take some measurements though...


----------



## svirajsilp

Anyone who has D2V with Pioneer 09FD please help


Just got D2V recently and enjoy very much


Only one problem I just found is no sound from D2V if I connect HDMI out from D2V


1) 2 HDMI out from 09FD, one to D2V (for sound only), the other goes directly to DVDO 50pro scaler via DVDO HDMI input#2

2) Also have 2 HDMI in to D2V from media box and TV receiver

3) 1 HDMI out from D2V to DVDO 50pro via DVDO HDMI input #4


In my case, when I play 09FD (when all cables above connected), no sound for 09FD from D2V (choose HDMI#2 from DVDO)


But when I disconnect HDMI out from D2V, the sound comes back


I also tried to play with the D2V's menu, but can't do anything


Sorry if this issue has alreay talked, but I couldn't find it from the forum


Thanks in advance


----------



## Warpdrv

I have also had troubles with no sound out of HDMI from my Dish box HDMI into the Anthem, I am going to attribute this to poor HDMI cable - waiting for new cables to show up....


I will state that sometimes switching sources got my sound back, but I also had to reboot my Dish Sat box in order to get sound, it has been intermittent and touchy.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16465779
> 
> 
> I have also had troubles with no sound out of HDMI from my Dish box HDMI into the Anthem, I am going to attribute this to poor HDMI cable - waiting for new cables to show up....



I would not blame it on the cables. I have never been able to get sound via HDMI from my TWC DVR.


I also get frequent dropouts and loss of sound from my PS3 to my D2v. The only way to get it back is to turn off the D2v and turn it back on.


I do not think it is the PS3 or the DVR, I think it is poor implementation of the HDMI syncing in the D2v.


For a while I had an Integra 9.8 with the same cables, projector, and sources and never experienced the amount of HDMI related problems as I have with the D2v. In fact, except for a bad HDMI input on the 9.8, I don't remember ever having a sync problem....if the Integra was not so poor on analog audio, I would not have switched.


It is frustrating getting the responses that blame the cable and/or the source, when I know that is not the case....


If Anthem did not seem like they were willing to correct the problems, and they do have outstanding service, I would look another direction.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16465447
> 
> 
> That is a good question, I also would like to see whats happening below 20hz as well...
> 
> 
> Although I can easily hook up my laptop and take some measurements though...



Take some measurements with what?









My ARC graphs only go to 20Hz and my subs are rated to 12Hz.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16465916
> 
> 
> I would not blame it on the cables. I have never been able to get sound via HDMI from my TWC DVR.
> 
> 
> I also get frequent dropouts and loss of sound from my PS3 to my D2v. The only way to get it back is to turn off the D2v and turn it back on.
> 
> 
> I do not think it is the PS3 or the DVR, I think it is poor implementation of the HDMI syncing in the D2v.
> 
> 
> For a while I had an Integra 9.8 with the same cables, projector, and sources and never experienced the amount of HDMI related problems as I have with the D2v. In fact, except for a bad HDMI input on the 9.8, I don't remember ever having a sync problem....if the Integra was not so poor on analog audio, I would not have switched.
> 
> 
> It is frustrating getting the responses that blame the cable and/or the source, when I know that is not the case....
> 
> 
> If Anthem did not seem like they were willing to correct the problems, and they do have outstanding service, I would look another direction.



I was wondering if I was not the only one with issues like this, as its very frustrating, I am coming off of a Pioneer receiver, that never and I mean never had issues like this, and I have only had it for a few days here and this is not making me happy one bit.... It seems to be a very touchy Pre-Amp in this regard.... I will say, that my cables are so old and thin, they are def not HDMI 1.3 grade in the least...


----------



## Charlie_Phogg

These HDMI issues are quite concerning to a future owner with a D2v on order. It's almost enough to make me want to cancel the order and wait to see if Anthem is able to work the problems out before plopping down a large sum of cash.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16464635
> 
> 
> While thinking about Montekay's problems I started to wonder- Why doesn't ARC measure, or chart the measurements, of subs and full-range speakers below 20Hz?
> 
> I would like to see what my sub is doing down there. Is it a technical limitation of ARC, or a choice of Anthem engineers, to not chart down lower than 20Hz?
> 
> Tom



It's a product marketing decision to limit the charting. I suppose they didn't want to depress people whose subs don't go down into the subsonics. Nick tells me ARC actually measures and corrects down to 5Hz -- within limits of what the sub or full-range speaker can actually do of course.


I've measured the results of ARC correction using the Velodyne calibrated mic and internally generated test sweep tones in my Velodyne subwoofer, and I can tell you ARC V2.1 really does operate to the limit of what the Velodyne displays, which is 15Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *svirajsilp* /forum/post/16465510
> 
> 
> Anyone who has D2V with Pioneer 09FD please help
> 
> 
> Just got D2V recently and enjoy very much
> 
> 
> Only one problem I just found is no sound from D2V if I connect HDMI out from D2V
> 
> 
> 1) 2 HDMI out from 09FD, one to D2V (for sound only), the other goes directly to DVDO 50pro scaler via DVDO HDMI input#2
> 
> 2) Also have 2 HDMI in to D2V from media box and TV receiver
> 
> 3) 1 HDMI out from D2V to DVDO 50pro via DVDO HDMI input #4
> 
> 
> In my case, when I play 09FD (when all cables above connected), no sound for 09FD from D2V (choose HDMI#2 from DVDO)
> 
> 
> But when I disconnect HDMI out from D2V, the sound comes back
> 
> 
> I also tried to play with the D2V's menu, but can't do anything
> 
> 
> Sorry if this issue has alreay talked, but I couldn't find it from the forum
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance



I suspect your dual HDMI path is giving HDMI HDCP (copy protection) fits in the 09FD. HDCP gets set up from end to end (i.e., through all your devices) by the source device. HDCP implementations apparently get unhappy if an HDMI fan-out (two outputs) rejoin at some device (the DVDO in your case).


Anthem has new "test" firmware for the D2v, V2.04c that may help with this. Give Anthem tech support a call and explain what you've found. If they agree, they'll give you access to that test firmware to see if it provides a fix.

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16466406
> 
> 
> I was wondering if I was not the only one with issues like this, as its very frustrating, I am coming off of a Pioneer receiver, that never and I mean never had issues like this, and I have only had it for a few days here and this is not making me happy one bit.... It seems to be a very touchy Pre-Amp in this regard.... I will say, that my cables are so old and thin, they are def not HDMI 1.3 grade in the least...



I too came off a current generation Pioneer AVR. I had my SA 8300 HD DVR hooked up via HDMI. I did a better job then the D2v but it was far from perfect. The box would reboot on it's own or get hung up and I' have to power cycle it to get it working again. The handshake time was real long and with lots of sparkles. I switched to Component and Coax and life has been good. Got to admit, the SA 8300 is JUNK...........


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16466458
> 
> 
> These HDMI issues are quite concerning to a future owner with a D2v on order. It's almost enough to make me want to cancel the order and wait to see if Anthem is able to work the problems out before plopping down a large sum of cash.



For what it's worth, I don't have any significant HDMI issues.


Sometimes I get the pink filter, but I have everything set to Auto, so I'll change that to 4:4:4 and see if that goes away. In any case, it was a minor issue as it either corrected itself, or a quick input switch fixed it.


I think only once did I have a no-audio/lock up issue, and that was switching from a 2-channel analog device with 480p over component, to my HTPC. I do that a lot, but it only had an issue once.


The rest of all my devices are HDMI, and they switch back and forth happily.


(My only annoyance is the amount of time it takes - around 5-6 seconds - to re-synch the source device and D2v when there's a resolution change... This is not the display synch, since that's fixed at 1080p60.)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16465916
> 
> 
> I would not blame it on the cables. I have never been able to get sound via HDMI from my TWC DVR.
> 
> 
> I also get frequent dropouts and loss of sound from my PS3 to my D2v. The only way to get it back is to turn off the D2v and turn it back on.
> 
> 
> I do not think it is the PS3 or the DVR, I think it is poor implementation of the HDMI syncing in the D2v.
> 
> 
> For a while I had an Integra 9.8 with the same cables, projector, and sources and never experienced the amount of HDMI related problems as I have with the D2v. In fact, except for a bad HDMI input on the 9.8, I don't remember ever having a sync problem....if the Integra was not so poor on analog audio, I would not have switched.
> 
> 
> It is frustrating getting the responses that blame the cable and/or the source, when I know that is not the case....
> 
> 
> If Anthem did not seem like they were willing to correct the problems, and they do have outstanding service, I would look another direction.



I've lost track. Is the 9.8 an HDMI V1.3 device with 1080p, 36-bit Deep Color, and 7.1 HDMI audio support like the D2v? All of those are things which will cause the PS3 to put more bandwidth demands on your cabling to the D2v.


Also are you sending 1080p/24 or 1080p/60 from the PS3 to the D2v. You should have 1080p/24 set to Auto in the PS3 (even if your display is not itself capable of 1080p/24)


I'm using a PS3 with my D2v (1080p/24 to the D2v) and have no such severe HDMI problems using the V2.04 D2v firmware and a Blue Jeans HDMI cable.


I don't know what's going on with your DVR, but it really is the case that many cable/satellite set top boxes have crappy HDMI implementations.


-----------------------------------


You might want to send an email to Anthem tech support, asking to try the V2.04c test firmware to see if it helps with these problems. Also tell them the make and model of your DVR as they may have info on that model.


And keep in mind on cabling that what appears to be source problems may, in reality, be due to a marginal HDMI cable to the display. The handshakes run from source to display. Frankly it's a constant wonder to me that HDMI works at all for these new, high bandwidth connections. We've had NUMEROUS reports here from folks who discovered that replacing HDMI cables cured problems even when they were dead certain their old cables were up to the task due to other testing they had done.


Heck I've found that myself with my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR. I was convinced there was a heat related problem either in the Comcast box or my older D2. I knew darn well the cable I was using was a good one. But what do you know? When I replaced the cable the problem went away.


Now I'm using Component and Optical Digital from that Comcast box, but not because of problems in the D2v. Comcast pushed out new firmware last year that broke their HDMI outputs (the now infamous Big Green Line on The Right problem).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16466611
> 
> 
> I too came off a current generation Pioneer AVR. I had my SA 8300 HD DVR hooked up via HDMI. I did a better job then the D2v but it was far from perfect. The box would reboot on it's own or get hung up and I' have to power cycle it to get it working again. The handshake time was real long and with lots of sparkles. I switched to Component and Coax and life has been good. Got to admit, the SA 8300 is JUNK...........



True, that.


Sparklies are bit drop outs. They are a CLASSIC symptom of a marginal HDMI electrical connection (faulty sockets or cables). They are not something that comes from faulty software or failure of the handshake implementation.


If you've got sparklies, then you've got cable/socket problems.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16466632
> 
> 
> (My only annoyance is the amount of time it takes - around 5-6 seconds - to re-synch the source device and D2v when there's a resolution change... This is not the display synch, since that's fixed at 1080p60.)



The display and the HDMI cable to the display participate in every handshake, even when the output from the D2v to the display never changes. HDCP and EDID inquiries run from end to end.


Try this: Temporarily remove wall power from the display (don't just turn it off as its HDMI sockets may still be powered when it is "off"). Then pick two sources that provide audio over HDMI. Now switch between them in the D2v and see how long the handshake takes before you get the new audio.


Now power up the display and try the same thing again. Is it taking longer? If so, then the problem might be on the display side. If not, then the problem is on the source side.


Note that some cable boxes are notorious for taking two handshakes to get HDMI audio going. I.e., the video starts and then there's another couple seconds before the audio starts. The box is literally doing a video only handshake and then, after that completes, a video plus audio handshake. If that's what you are seeing then the solution is to use Optical Digital audio from your cable box even if you continue to use HDMI for video from that box.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16466406
> 
> 
> I was wondering if I was not the only one with issues like this, as its very frustrating, I am coming off of a Pioneer receiver, that never and I mean never had issues like this, and I have only had it for a few days here and this is not making me happy one bit.... It seems to be a very touchy Pre-Amp in this regard.... I will say, that my cables are so old and thin, they are def not HDMI 1.3 grade in the least...



Don't wait. Upgrade your cables. It doesn't have to be expensive -- see Blue Jeans or Monoprice.


The D2v is a 1080p/60, 36-bit (Deep Color), 7.1 channel HDMI V1.3 device. This affects the bandwidth that gets put on the HDMI cables from sources and to your display.


Many older HDMI cables were never intended to be used above 1080i and certainly not with Deep Color connections. We've also had scads of reports here on AVS of folks using wall plates to connect to in-wall wiring who discovered that their wall plates were the source of the problem. The wall plates were degrading the signal just by the act of fanning out the wires to the socket on either side. HDMI signals are just that sensitive.


Please note that you do not need thick, bulky cables to get good HDMI. What you need is a cable that has been designed and tested for the higher bandwidth signals produced by newer hardware.


Look for cables labeled HDMI V1.3 "for 1080p/60", or "high speed", or "category 2" -- all of which mean the same thing. Length also matters. Cables are tested only to their manufactured length, so if you daisy chain cables, all bets are off. Blue Jeans Cable has two types of top of the line cable -- one for normal interconnect distances and one for longer runs to projectors -- for just this reason.

--Bob


----------



## svirajsilp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16466533
> 
> 
> I suspect your dual HDMI path is giving HDMI HDCP (copy protection) fits in the 09FD. HDCP gets set up from end to end (i.e., through all your devices) by the source device. HDCP implementations apparently get unhappy if an HDMI fan-out (two outputs) rejoin at some device (the DVDO in your case).
> 
> 
> Anthem has new "test" firmware for the D2v, V2.04c that may help with this. Give Anthem tech support a call and explain what you've found. If they agree, they'll give you access to that test firmware to see if it provides a fix.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks so much BOB











I also have my result from ARC here:






























If you can see I set room gain differently from movie and music


The music room gain is calculated from ARC, but I reduce to 1.5 as in the movie set up


Also, I tried increase eq max many values, 10000, 12000, 15000 and 20000


Finally, I found eq at 5000 and room gain at 1.5 is the best for my system











Oh by the way, I'm not so sure it's a bug or not. After calculated, the window showed my sub crossover at 80Hz (as in the picture)


But when I uploaded to my D2V, in the menu, it was 65 Hz










I had to change back by myself


----------



## spiderv6

As others have said......I have my PS3 and D2v working flawlessly and doing it every time......so it can't be a hardware issue.


Seems to me that cables (and mine are new for the D2v blue jeans high-bandwidth) are very often the culprit........


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16466919
> 
> 
> Don't wait. Upgrade your cables. It doesn't have to be expensive -- see Blue Jeans or Monoprice.
> 
> 
> The D2v is a 1080p/60, 36-bit (Deep Color), 7.1 channel HDMI V1.3 device. This affects the bandwidth that gets put on the HDMI cables from sources and to your display.
> 
> 
> Many older HDMI cables were never intended to be used above 1080i and certainly not with Deep Color connections. We've also had scads of reports here on AVS of folks using wall plates to connect to in-wall wiring who discovered that their wall plates were the source of the problem. The wall plates were degrading the signal just by the act of fanning out the wires to the socket on either side. HDMI signals are just that sensitive.
> 
> 
> Please note that you do not need thick, bulky cables to get good HDMI. What you need is a cable that has been designed and tested for the higher bandwidth signals produced by newer hardware.
> 
> 
> Look for cables labeled HDMI V1.3 "for 1080p/60", or "high speed", or "category 2" -- all of which mean the same thing. Length also matters. Cables are tested only to their manufactured length, so if you daisy chain cables, all bets are off. Blue Jeans Cable has two types of top of the line cable -- one for normal interconnect distances and one for longer runs to projectors -- for just this reason.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob, Yes I already ordered these cables from BJC as I knew right from the start I would need to upgrade my inferior cables and I have no problem doing so...ordered as soon as I had the first incling they may be the problem. inexpensive problem solver.... None of my cables were ever asked to pass 1080p through them so that is likely why I never experienced any issues with them.



Another question, how do I strip the audio from passing through to my plasma if I do not need/want it to go there....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16467597
> 
> 
> Another question, how do I strip the audio from passing through to my plasma if I do not need/want it to go there....



The Anthem sends out a stereo down mix of whatever audio is selected for the Main path in the HDMI output signal -- 2.0 LPCM 48KHz. There's no way to disable this that I know of, but it's really a non issue. The audio is embedded in the blanking intervals of the video and it is low bandwidth audio so it is not putting any real demands on the cable.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *svirajsilp* /forum/post/16466968
> 
> 
> Thanks so much BOB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have my result from ARC here:
> 
> 
> 
> If you can see I set room gain differently from movie and music
> 
> 
> The music room gain is calculated from ARC, but I reduce to 1.5 as in the movie set up
> 
> 
> Also, I tried increase eq max many values, 10000, 12000, 15000 and 20000
> 
> 
> Finally, I found eq at 5000 and room gain at 1.5 is the best for my system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh by the way, I'm not so sure it's a bug or not. After calculated, the window showed my sub crossover at 80Hz (as in the picture)
> 
> 
> But when I uploaded to my D2V, in the menu, it was 65 Hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to change back by myself.



These results look fine to me but it was a mistake to change the Uploaded sub crossover value.


There are two different things going on here: The Room Correction "cutoff" which is a parameter of the Room Correction solution that ARC designs for you, and the Bass Management crossover.


For the main speakers, ARC uses the same value for cutoff and crossover. For the subwoofer, however, ARC versions V2.0 and later have the additional flexibility to build a solution where these two values differ. The cutoff refers to when ARC starts rolling back its attempts to correct the sub output for room effects. The crossover refers to the point where the solution starts rolling off the sub output for bass management purposes. Only the cutoff is displayed in the Targets window (ARC derives the best crossover from the cutoff value).


So it is NORMAL for the Uploaded sub crossover to differ from the sub cutoff displayed in the Targets window. Go change the crossover back to what ARC Uploaded for you or your ARC solution will not work as intended.


If you are not certain you remember what ARC Uploaded just open your ARC results file in Advanced mode and do a new Upload. No need to re-Measure or re-Calculate.


-------------------------------------------


That aside, I think you are in good shape. The residual errors in the highest frequencies are all quite small -- and reasonable to ignore -- with the one exception of Center near 15KHz. That error is a little larger than I'd suggest you ignore.


You might be able to tame that by repointing Center a bit. Pay particular attention to its vertical pointing. The grill cloth and cloth mounting hardware on Center may also be reducing its treble a bit. Check for hardware in front of the tweeter.


-------------------------------------------


By the way, it is unusual for people to prefer more Room Gain for Music than for Movies. If you are actually USING the Music configuration you might want to lower the Room Gain for that one as well.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16466691
> 
> 
> I've lost track. Is the 9.8 an HDMI V1.3 device with 1080p, 36-bit Deep Color, and 7.1 HDMI audio support like the D2v? Yes
> 
> 
> All of those are things which will cause the PS3 to put more bandwidth demands on your cabling to the D2v. I know.
> 
> 
> Also are you sending 1080p/24 or 1080p/60 from the PS3 to the D2v. You should have 1080p/24 set to Auto in the PS3 (even if your display is not itself capable of 1080p/24) Yes - any my display - Sony VW60 projector is 1080p/24 capable
> 
> 
> I'm using a PS3 with my D2v (1080p/24 to the D2v) and have no such severe HDMI problems using the V2.04 D2v firmware and a Blue Jeans HDMI cable.My cable is Monoprice and supposedly 1.3 capable
> 
> 
> I don't know what's going on with your DVR, but it really is the case that many cable/satellite set top boxes have crappy HDMI implementations.
> I agree - but the video works fine - it just won't do audio.
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> You might want to send an email to Anthem tech support, asking to try the V2.04c test firmware to see if it helps with these problems. Good idea - thanks. Is it on the regular test download page?
> 
> 
> Also tell them the make and model of your DVR as they may have info on that model. Already have.
> 
> 
> And keep in mind on cabling that what appears to be source problems may, in reality, be due to a marginal HDMI cable to the display. The handshakes run from source to display. Frankly it's a constant wonder to me that HDMI works at all for these new, high bandwidth connections. We've had NUMEROUS reports here from folks who discovered that replacing HDMI cables cured problems even when they were dead certain their old cables were up to the task due to other testing they had done.
> 
> 
> Heck I've found that myself with my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR. I was convinced there was a heat related problem either in the Comcast box or my older D2. I knew darn well the cable I was using was a good one. But what do you know? When I replaced the cable the problem went away.
> 
> 
> Now I'm using Component and Optical Digital from that Comcast box, but not because of problems in the D2v. Comcast pushed out new firmware last year that broke their HDMI outputs (the now infamous Big Green Line on The Right problem).
> I use component and optical digital on my DVR now.
> 
> --Bob



Just to clarify one thing - I am not dissatisfied with my purchase - the problems really do not bother me that much when I am using my system. The problem is when my wife or son turns it on and the HDMI misfires. When I am home - no big deal - when I a travelling - another story!


Bob - once again - thank you for all your assitance and advice. I would still recommend the unit to those that want superior picture and audio in a high end system.


My next new peice comes tomorrow - the Oppo Blu-Ray player...


Mmike


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16466729
> 
> 
> True, that.
> 
> 
> Sparklies are bit drop outs. They are a CLASSIC symptom of a marginal HDMI electrical connection (faulty sockets or cables). They are not something that comes from faulty software or failure of the handshake implementation.
> 
> 
> If you've got sparklies, then you've got cable/socket problems.
> 
> --Bob



Agree - the SA box and it's socket was the issue. The cable (BJC), Pio and D2v are all good.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

CycloneMike,

Yes, the "test" V2.04c firmware is on the password protected download page. I posted the release notes for it back a dozen posts or so.


I can't recall whether or not you already have access to that page. If not, just email Anthem tech support that you'd like to see if that new Beta firmware helps with the HDMI problems you've already reported and they'll get you the info you need. It's no big secret, but they want to keep some sort of track of who's using this stuff and make sure you know that "test" software may come with unpleasant surprises requiring you to roll back to prior firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Updated Manuals now on Password Protected Download Page*


Anthem has updated the "Test" ARC V2.1.1 install kit found on the password protected download page. The only change is to update the Manuals found in there as well as the text file containing the RS-232 command definitions.


The RS-232 definitions now include a few additional commands in support of "Dolby Volume" which is coming soon in the V2.1x firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v. That firmware is not yet available even as Beta firmware.


The updated manuals include additional clean-up as well as tips and tricks.


For example, Anthem now describes a process were you can make a Movie and Music configuration with one set of Measurements but still not have a subwoofer in the Music configuration!


The trick is to select "same as" for the Measurement pass so that you only have to do one set of Measurements for each speaker. Then open up the file in Advanced mode and, for the Music configuration, lower the "cutoff" frequency for the subwoofer below 25Hz. It will change to "No Speaker" and the solution ARC then Calculates for the Music configuration will not include the subwoofer. If you don't want Center or Surrounds in your Music Configuration (and still only want to do one speaker pass of Measurements) just select Stereo audio surround mode when playing your 2 channel music sources.


If you spot any additional tips/tricks in the new manuals, please do post them here.


I still don't have an ETA for the V2.1x firmware (with "Dolby Volume") but my guess would be June.


As for ARC V2.1.1, it is only a minor bug fix version over the "official" ARC V2.1 version. It fixes a problem in using the ARC mic for folks who happen to have both ARC and PBK applications installed on the same Windows computer. There's no need to switch to ARC V2.1.1 from ARC V2.1 unless you have this specific problem.

--Bob


----------



## Johnsteph10

I'm starting to get really frustrated waiting on my D2v -- it has now been over 2 MONTHS and still no word.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16469386
> 
> 
> I'm starting to get really frustrated waiting on my D2v -- it has now been over 2 MONTHS and still no word.



The last word of a delivery was ordered March 2. So I think we are looking at about 2 1/2 month lead time now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16469386
> 
> 
> I'm starting to get really frustrated waiting on my D2v -- it has now been over 2 MONTHS and still no word.



There's not much I can say except try to stay patient. Anthem really does fill orders first in first out -- the only exception being that warranty replacements move to the front of the line.


One thing you might want to confirm is the date your dealer actually placed the order with Anthem (as opposed to when you placed the order with the dealer). Not that it will make you feel any better if he delayed placing the order, but at least that might be partial explanation.


I know that Anthem is trying hard to keep the lead time under 60 days, but it looks like demand keeps outreaching their expectations.


Frankly I think it's only going to get worse when the Dolby Volume firmware ships.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just installed the V2.04c "test" firmware in my D2v. No problems.


I've got a lot of testing to do to see which bug fixes made it into this release.


Stay tuned. Film at 11:00 (not saying which day).

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16464502
> 
> 
> No the current "official" ARC release for both the old and new processors is V2.1 -- available from Anthem's public download pages.
> 
> 
> Pair that with firmware V1.33 for the D2 and AVM 50, or with firmware V2.04 for the D2v and AVM 50v.
> 
> --Bob



Got it. It's V2.1 for the ARC. Thanks!


----------



## thevendetta

I picked up my beautiful new D2v and A5 today!!! Very excited - a great start to the weekend!


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16464517
> 
> 
> I agree. This doesn't look like an ARC problem (except for why Erase isn't working).
> 
> 
> I suspect you have a hardware problem. If this was a system firmware problem we would have had more people complaining about loss of bass on their 2-ch inputs.
> 
> 
> Anyway, you've detailed what needs to be detailed, so let's see what answers you get.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah the more I think about it the more I'm convinced that ARC itself probably works fine, it's just that the D2 has some sort of an issue. Even the inability to delete the ARC is highly unlikely to be related to the ARC software. That almost has to be a D2 hardware issue.


All the other weird stuff too all seems to point to a hardware issue. Like you said, certainly someone would have noticed the lack of bass in their two 2-ch input by now. Hmmm...it would have to be someone not using a sub and with mains that have pretty decent low frequency extension so maybe it's possible no one would have noticed. Probably most people are using a sub.


I was going to say it would be nice if someone else would make these same measurements but actually if someone not using a sub could just play a track with a known low note both on the 2-ch input and on another input that would confirm if it's a flaw or just a defect in my D2.


The ARTA software I used can be downloaded and used for free, you just can't save files. It's also cheap to buy, I think I paid around $250 for the professional (multi-user) license. That's just a tiny fraction of what I paid for MLSSA 15 years ago and ARTA is a superior system.


Anyway, no word from Nick today but I expect it will take him some time to digest all of that.


mk


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

Wow


i pick all my new toys up tomorrow a d2 being one of them , arc is being installed in this unit . Then i will upgrade when available . Other goodies on the list a5 , mca50 , panamax 5510, 5500 , paradigm speakers , all v5's , 100's , cc690 , four adp590's , sub 15 . Can't wait i will post picks , if i can figure that out ? Thanks bob you were right in regards to the pbk versus arc the dealer is installing it .


Bert


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thevendetta* /forum/post/16471243
> 
> 
> I picked up my beautiful new D2v and A5 today!!! Very excited - a great start to the weekend!



Great combo, you'll love the sound









John


----------



## svirajsilp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16468364
> 
> 
> These results look fine to me but it was a mistake to change the Uploaded sub crossover value.
> 
> 
> There are two different things going on here: The Room Correction "cutoff" which is a parameter of the Room Correction solution that ARC designs for you, and the Bass Management crossover.
> 
> 
> For the main speakers, ARC uses the same value for cutoff and crossover. For the subwoofer, however, ARC versions V2.0 and later have the additional flexibility to build a solution where these two values differ. The cutoff refers to when ARC starts rolling back its attempts to correct the sub output for room effects. The crossover refers to the point where the solution starts rolling off the sub output for bass management purposes. Only the cutoff is displayed in the Targets window (ARC derives the best crossover from the cutoff value).
> 
> 
> So it is NORMAL for the Uploaded sub crossover to differ from the sub cutoff displayed in the Targets window. Go change the crossover back to what ARC Uploaded for you or your ARC solution will not work as intended.
> 
> 
> If you are not certain you remember what ARC Uploaded just open your ARC results file in Advanced mode and do a new Upload. No need to re-Measure or re-Calculate.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> That aside, I think you are in good shape. The residual errors in the highest frequencies are all quite small -- and reasonable to ignore -- with the one exception of Center near 15KHz. That error is a little larger than I'd suggest you ignore.
> 
> 
> You might be able to tame that by repointing Center a bit. Pay particular attention to its vertical pointing. The grill cloth and cloth mounting hardware on Center may also be reducing its treble a bit. Check for hardware in front of the tweeter.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> By the way, it is unusual for people to prefer more Room Gain for Music than for Movies. If you are actually USING the Music configuration you might want to lower the Room Gain for that one as well.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks again Bob


I did try FW2.04c but it didn't solve my problem











and found that on that beta FW, it reduced my sub output so much


Did you hear any differences from that FW



In my case, I tried to reload ARC again, but not help


Finally, I reinstalled the current FW 2.04 and everything back to normal now


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *svirajsilp* /forum/post/16472244
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob
> 
> 
> I did try FW2.04c but it didn't solve my problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and found that on that beta FW, it reduced my sub output so much
> 
> 
> Did you hear any differences from that FW
> 
> 
> 
> In my case, I tried to reload ARC again, but not help
> 
> 
> Finally, I reinstalled the current FW 2.04 and everything back to normal now



So far I haven't noticed an audio problem in V2.04c but I haven't checked carefully.


As I understand it, you tried re-Uploading your ARC results and that didn't help. Did you also check in Setup > Source Setup to make sure Room EQ = ON was still set for all your sources?


If you are using a Trigger output to turn on your sub, it is also possible that the Trigger setup was not correct and so the sub was never turned on to begin with.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Sparklies" with 1080p/60 36-bit Deep Color video input using V2.04c "test" firmware.*


I've got a problem with the V2.04c "test" firmware, and I'd like to hear from any others who are trying it to see if you also have this problem.


I'm getting small sized video noise and bright "sparklies" from 1080p/60 36-bit deep color YCbCr 4:4:4 video input. I'm seeing this with my Oppo BDP-83.


The problem goes away if you reduce the bandwidth of the video input signal in any way: I.e., there is no problem at 1080i/60 or 1080p/24 or reducing the 36-bit video input to 30-bit.


Now normally a problem like this would be a classic symptom of a marginal HDMI cable, but since it happened with this new firmware using the same source and cable that had worked before I need to consider the possibility that it is a bug in this "test" firmware.


So if you try this firmware, and have a source capable of HDMI 1080p/60 36-bit YCbCr 4:4:4 video output, please set your source to that and try looking at some black scenes to see if you too are now getting sparklies. It would be most helpful if you try content you are SURE didn't have sparklies with V2.04 -- e.g., a live concert Blu-Ray disc (1080i/60 on disc) that you are having your player de-interlace and output as 1080p/60 with 36-bit deep color. Or a video calibration disc you have previously used at 1080p/60 as opposed to 1080p/24.

--Bob


----------



## svirajsilp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16472951
> 
> 
> So far I haven't noticed an audio problem in V2.04c but I haven't checked carefully.
> 
> 
> As I understand it, you tried re-Uploading your ARC results and that didn't help. Did you also check in Setup > Source Setup to make sure Room EQ = ON was still set for all your sources?
> 
> 
> If you are using a Trigger output to turn on your sub, it is also possible that the Trigger setup was not correct and so the sub was never turned on to begin with.
> 
> --Bob




Yeah, the room eq was on and I didn't use that trigger.


The subs (2) were on when watching movie or concert and worked fine, just lower than normal


I didn't try to reload 2.04c again. It might help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *svirajsilp* /forum/post/16473051
> 
> 
> Yeah, the room eq was on and I didn't use that trigger.
> 
> 
> The subs (2) were on when watching movie or concert and worked fine, just lower than normal
> 
> 
> I didn't try to reload 2.04c again. It might help.



I'll test bass levels later today and see if I've also got a problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *svirajsilp* /forum/post/16472244
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob
> 
> 
> I did try FW2.04c but it didn't solve my problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and found that on that beta FW, it reduced my sub output so much
> 
> 
> Did you hear any differences from that FW
> 
> 
> 
> In my case, I tried to reload ARC again, but not help
> 
> 
> Finally, I reinstalled the current FW 2.04 and everything back to normal now



OK, I can confirm that the "Test" V2.04c firmware definitely does have a bass levels problem.


The levels put out by Setup > Level Calibration are still correct, but processed audio has bass about 10-13dB too low.


I know this to be the case for LFE input -- tested with the TrueHD 5.1 track from "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray > Audio Tests > Multi-channels Level & Balance. Tested with HDMI LPCM from the PS3 and also HDMI Bitstream from the Oppo.


I also believe it to be the case for steered bass as when playing 2-channel jazz content in Stereo mode (in a Music configuration that includes the subwoofer). But it would take more effort for me to quantify that precisely.


Some bass is getting through -- just at reduced levels -- so the basic configuration -- triggers and such -- is working.


I also reloaded my ARC configuration after the V2.04c install last night so that won't help.


I tried turning off Room EQ and testing again and the bass problem still exists. So it is not an ARC problem.


Since both of us have this problem, it is highly unlikely reinstalling V2.04c would make any difference.


Anthem has been informed.

--Bob


----------



## PaulF

OK Guys, I have hired a contractor to build me a new HT/media room, and I am strongly considering building the new system around the D2.


First I have to say that I am concerned about the firmware. For the three years I have followed this thread it seems to have been a work in progress.


Second, I wish that Anthem would step up and make some commitment towards Ethernet connectivity, bringing this unit into the 21st century from a management perspective like all its current competitors. I don't look forward to multiple FW upgrades via RS-232.


With that off my chest, here are some initial questions.


1. I will be running a TV and projector from the HDMI outputs (not at the same time). Does the D2 support a different audio (lip-sync) delay setting for each output?


2. Can I send full range signals to my fronts and still send low-passed L/R bass to the subs? I would like to augment my bass in two channel mode.


3. I am contemplating monopole surrounds because use will be 50/50 HT/music and I will only have one row of seats. What does the dipole setting for surround/rears do?


4. If I get a 2ch+5ch amp, can the trigger outputs be used to trigger the amps individually when in different modes e.g 2ch amp for stereo only (including SACD), 5ch mode for SACD/DVD-A, 7ch mode for HT?


5. How deep does ARC work to? Does it complement the EQ in the JL Fathom series or fight it?


6. Was there any upgrade to the DAC in the D2v or are they the same as original? What are they? I have seem them referenced in a review but can't find it again. I believe they still don't support DSD input, correct?


7. Has Dolby Volume been made available yet? If not, any word of when?


Speakers will be B&W 802s. I have been looking for an audiophile 7ch amp that won't break the bank, but hard to find. My mind changes every day but may go with Emotive XPA-2 + XPA-5.


I am sure to have more questions as I dig deeper but appreciate any help with the above.


----------



## Nicoff

Well, since I sent my center speaker to the factory for repairs, I ran ARC without a center channel and uploaded the new set up to my D2.


For music, I really like what the D2 is doing without the center spaeker. After I get my center speaker back, I will try ARC again with all speakers active. But I might end up not using the center speaker for music at all, time will tell.


For video (TV, DVD), I miss the punch of the center speaker. I definitely need that speaker back.


I still have a humming issue with the video sources only (Directv DVR and DVD) which are connected to the D2 via HDMI. After lots of troubleshooting (I have disconnected the cables coming from the dish and the noise is still there), I am leaning to blaming the HDMI cables for picking some 60hz noise from behind the cabinet (all cables run close to each other).

I understand that some HDMI cables come with ferrite adaptors that can filter some noise. I am going to look into that. Also, I will check for shorter cables. Your suggestions are welcome! Thanks!!


----------



## Montekay

I still haven't heard from Nick but I have new information so I sent him another e-mail...


Hi Nick


Just FYI, I now have a collaborator that also believes there is something wrong with the D2 DSP. Who is this collaborator you ask? It's not so much a who as a what... It's my Anthem AVM20-HD. Because the 20-HD doesn't have room correction it isn't possible to test all the same test but take note of what was found.


Note: See notes from previous measurements of D2.


Item's 3 and 4 from the D2 measurements. In the case of the D2, adjusting the HF EQ effected both HF and LF. In the case of the 20-HD the results match exactly with expectations. The HF does not effect the LF. Also note adjusting the LF does not effect the HF...which was also true for the D2. See attached... "LF EQ effect on HF" and HF EQ effect on LF.


Item 5 from the D2 measurement. In the case of the D2, AnlgDsp exhibited an 4 dB bass boost while AnlgDir was flat. In the case of the 20-HD, both curves are flat. See attached..."2-ch AnlgDir...". The 20-HD behaves consistent with expectations. (because no EQ has been applied the anlgDsp curve should be flat). This seems to imply something is wrong with the D2 DSP because it is applying corrections it has not been instructed to apply...ie the 4 dB boost.


Item 6 from the D2 measurements show that the signal is changed by using the CD input relative to using other inputs. This is also somewhat the case with the 20 HD but to a lesser degree. Using AnlgDir the two are identical but with AnlgDsp there is a slight error. In the attached "CD AUX comparison..." you can also see a slight rise in the response at low frequency NOT coincidentally at about 80 Hz.


In the 20-HD bass management menu there is menu item, "g. Xover Freq". There are also menu items h. through k. which are individual crossover values for the fronts, center, surrounds, and rear. For this measurement all speakers were set to large and Advanced settings were set to Off thus item's h. through k. all displayed, "--". As you can see in the attached, "AUX with xover 25 and 160..." low frequency has been rerouted to the mains as expected (AL-Cinema mode). Measurements were made with the crossover setting at 25 Hz and 160 Hz. Also in the CD AUX comparison above item g. was set to 80 Hz...surprise surprise! Btw, in stereo mode no low frequency is redirected from surround to the mains again agreeing with expectations. The same goes for subwoofer mode, I didn't measure the sub output but I expect surround LF is directed there when a sub is used.


So within arguably acceptable deviation, the AVM20-HD performs exactly as expected. The D2 seems to have a mind of its own or perhaps the 20-HD is also a mind...and the D2 is a mind on drugs!


Monte


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/16474496
> 
> 
> OK Guys, I have hired a contractor to build me a new HT/media room, and I am strongly considering building the new system around the D2.
> 
> 
> First I have to say that I am concerned about the firmware. For the three years I have followed this thread it seems to have been a work in progress.
> 
> 
> Second, I wish that Anthem would step up and make some commitment towards Ethernet connectivity, bringing this unit into the 21st century from a management perspective like all its current competitors. I don't look forward to multiple FW upgrades via RS-232.
> 
> 
> With that off my chest, here are some initial questions.
> 
> 
> 1. I will be running a TV and projector from the HDMI outputs (not at the same time). Does the D2 support a different audio (lip-sync) delay setting for each output?
> 
> 
> 2. Can I send full range signals to my fronts and still send low-passed L/R bass to the subs? I would like to augment my bass in two channel mode.
> 
> 
> 3. I am contemplating monopole surrounds because use will be 50/50 HT/music and I will only have one row of seats. What does the dipole setting for surround/rears do?
> 
> 
> 4. If I get a 2ch+5ch amp, can the trigger outputs be used to trigger the amps individually when in different modes e.g 2ch amp for stereo only (including SACD), 5ch mode for SACD/DVD-A, 7ch mode for HT?
> 
> 
> 5. How deep does ARC work to? Does it complement the EQ in the JL Fathom series or fight it?
> 
> 
> 6. Was there any upgrade to the DAC in the D2v or are they the same as original? What are they? I have seem them referenced in a review but can't find it again. I believe they still don't support DSD input, correct?
> 
> 
> 7. Has Dolby Volume been made available yet? If not, any word of when?
> 
> 
> Speakers will be B&W 802s. I have been looking for an audiophile 7ch amp that won't break the bank, but hard to find. My mind changes every day but may go with Emotive XPA-2 + XPA-5.
> 
> 
> I am sure to have more questions as I dig deeper but appreciate any help with the above.



I doubt Anthem will ever stop updating the firmware for their current models. Personally I think it just keeps getting better, which is good.


Keep in mind that we spend a lot of time discussing "test" software versions here. If you limit yourself to only doing updates each time a new "official" version is released, I think you will find it no great burden.


It is not likely ethernet will appear on the D2v platform. Perhaps whatever follows next will have it, but we have no way to know that, and there is no time frame for when such a product might happen.


As to your questions, first I'm assuming you mean the new Anthem processor, the D2v, not the original D2 unit:


1) The D2v remembers lip-sync settings on a per-source basis, not per video output or even Video Output configuration settings (of which there are 4). In the unlikely event you really do need different lip-sync for your two displays, one way would be to set up separate Source Setup definitions (e.g., DVD1 vs DVD2) that could each specify their own choice of Video Output configuration and lip sync. Alternatively there is easy access to lip-sync via the remote. Or if you are setting up an RS-232 control system, lip sync can also be adjusted that way as part of switching to the configuration for use or your alternate display.


2) Yes. See the 1 Super and 2 Supers settings in Section 3.3 of the Anthem D2v manual (downloadable from the Anthem web site). However my personal recommendation would be that you do NOT use this configuration. Instead, set up your stuff with Anthem Room Correction (ARC) and see if that doesn't do the trick for you.


3) Basically the dipole setting for surrounds changes the way the speaker distance setting affects those. Since dipoles work by bouncing the sound off the walls, distance adjustment is not appropriate. (The signal to Dipole surrounds is synced with the largest distance setting for any speaker in the configuration.)


4) Triggers are tied to power On/Off or to source selection, not to audio surround modes. Again, the way to do this is to set up separate, perhaps "overlaid", source definitions. For example use CD for your stereo content and set one trigger for when you do that. Establish Stereo audio mode as the default for that. Use DVD1 for DVD and DVD2 for multi-channel SACD, and have those two turn on both triggers (one to each amp). See Section 3.11 of the Manual.


5) Although the ARC charts only show down to 20Hz, we've been told by Anthem that ARC actually operates down to 5Hz. My recommendation is that you disable any EQ you have in your sub and see if ARC can do everything that needs to be done. If not, go back and manually set the sub's EQ as you think best, and then redo your ARC Measurements with the sub's EQ turned on. They don't conflict, but generally it is better to remove the extra processing step (the sub EQ) unless you really need it. Personally I've found ARC does everything I need and so I've turned off the EQ in my Velodyne DD series sub.


6) We've been told that the DACs did NOT change in the D2v, but many people here have reported that the D2v's DACs sound better than the D2, so something interesting may have changed in the circuits around them. The D2v does not accept DSD input. You will need a player that converts DSD to HDMI LPCM (or multi-channel analog if you prefer).


7) Dolby Volume has not shipped yet. Reading the tea leaves, I think we'll see it in June (a free firmware update for D2v and AVM 50v units).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16474604
> 
> 
> I still haven't heard from Nick but I have new information so I sent him another e-mail...



I trust you are not seriously expecting a response from Nick over the weekend.







Of course we here at "Bob Pariseau" find that being shackled to one's computer can actually become quite comfortable after you get used to it....


That aside, the extra info you sent Nick should prove quite helpful, as it makes clear you aren't doing something strange in your measurements.


By the way, you've probably mentioned it, but are we talking about a D2 here or the new D2v version?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16474598
> 
> 
> I still have a humming issue with the video sources only (Directv DVR and DVD) which are connected to the D2 via HDMI. After lots of troubleshooting (I have disconnected the cables coming from the dish and the noise is still there), I am leaning to blaming the HDMI cables for picking some 60hz noise from behind the cabinet (all cables run close to each other).
> 
> I understand that some HDMI cables come with ferrite adaptors that can filter some noise. I am going to look into that. Also, I will check for shorter cables. Your suggestions are welcome! Thanks!!



Don't forget to look through the Hum FAQ sticky thread in the Audio Theory forum here.


Try shifting some cables by hand. If the hum varies then you do have a cable shielding problem.


Isolating hum requires simplifying everything until the hum vanishes. Then add things back in one at a time. Again, read that Hum FAQ for suggestions.

--Bob


----------



## Mr. Foo

I just had ARC installed by a dealer on my AVM-50 yesterday. This evening, I went to hook everything back up and manually restore the hdmi source setup back to what I had before the upgrade (tech didn't save settings for me) and now I am not getting any audio at all, just video.


Anyone else experience this and/or have any troubleshooting ideas? I hope my dealer didn't somehow screw up the dsp install or associated firmware upgrade....


I have not connected my pc to the anthem via the serial port yet.


I am running v1.33.


TIA for the help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Foo* /forum/post/16475225
> 
> 
> I just had ARC installed by a dealer on my AVM-50 yesterday. This evening, I went to hook everything back up and manually restore the hdmi source setup back to what I had before the upgrade (tech didn't save settings for me) and now I am not getting any audio at all, just video.
> 
> 
> Anyone else experience this and/or have any troubleshooting ideas? I hope my dealer didn't somehow screw up the dsp install or associated firmware upgrade....
> 
> 
> I have not connected my pc to the anthem via the serial port yet.
> 
> 
> I am running v1.33.
> 
> 
> TIA for the help.



You need to re-install V1.33 *AFTER* the AVM 50 ARC DSP board hardware is installed so that the firmware properly recognizes the newly installed DSP board. This is true even if you already have firmware V1.33 in the AVM 50.


You can download the AVM 50 V1.33 installer from here:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...edProduct.html 


To do the install you will need a Windows computer with a serial port (or serial port adapter).


Make sure you have no powered HDMI connections (sources or display) during the install. Also, go into Setup and do a Reload Factory Defaults prior to doing the install.


Once you complete the install, see if you can get audio using the built-in test tones (Setup > Level Calibration). If you are using Triggers to turn on your amps, make sure the Trigger configuration is correct and that your amps really are turning on.


If re-installing V1.33 on top of itself doesn't fix things for you, give Anthem tech support a call on Monday. The ARC upgrade has its own warranty, and they'll be able to sort things out for you.

--Bob


----------



## PaulF

Thanks for the answers Bob.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16475031
> 
> 
> It is not likely ethernet will appear on the D2v platform. Perhaps whatever follows next will have it, but we have no way to know that, and there is no time frame for when such a product might happen.



I just think Anthem is way behind on this and needs to provide a path to IP access to the box. Even a commitment to a trade in program would be useful.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16475031
> 
> 
> As to your questions, first I'm assuming you mean the new Anthem processor, the D2v, not the original D2 unit:



Yes, I meant the new D2v.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16475031
> 
> 
> 1) The D2v remembers lip-sync settings on a per-source basis, not per video output or even Video Output configuration settings (of which there are 4). In the unlikely event you really do need different lip-sync for your two displays, one way would be to set up separate Source Setup definitions (e.g., DVD1 vs DVD2) that could each specify their own choice of Video Output configuration and lip sync. Alternatively there is easy access to lip-sync via the remote. Or if you are setting up an RS-232 control system, lip sync can also be adjusted that way as part of switching to the configuration for use or your alternate display.



That's worth a try but seems I would need duplicate setups for each input. If the processing delay in the TV is different than the projector, it would be nice to have two global settings. Maybe this can be an enhancement request for Anthem.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16475031
> 
> 
> 2) Yes. See the 1 Super and 2 Supers settings in Section 3.3 of the Anthem D2v manual (downloadable from the Anthem web site). However my personal recommendation would be that you do NOT use this configuration. Instead, set up your stuff with Anthem Room Correction (ARC) and see if that doesn't do the trick for you.



I'm not sure I fully anderstand how ARC would help me augment the bass response for two channel audio? My goal is to fill in the space between ~20-40 Hz.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16475031
> 
> 
> 4) Triggers are tied to power On/Off or to source selection, not to audio surround modes. Again, the way to do this is to set up separate, perhaps "overlaid", source definitions. For example use CD for your stereo content and set one trigger for when you do that. Establish Stereo audio mode as the default for that. Use DVD1 for DVD and DVD2 for multi-channel SACD, and have those two turn on both triggers (one to each amp). See Section 3.11 of the Manual.



Just curious then, I saw a number of monopole/dipole speakers that could switch configuration based on a trigger input. Would type of device would send that trigger?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16475031
> 
> 
> 5) Although the ARC charts only show down to 20Hz, we've been told by Anthem that ARC actually operates down to 5Hz. My recommendation is that you disable any EQ you have in your sub and see if ARC can do everything that needs to be done. If not, go back and manually set the sub's EQ as you think best, and then redo your ARC Measurements with the sub's EQ turned on. They don't conflict, but generally it is better to remove the extra processing step (the sub EQ) unless you really need it. Personally I've found ARC does everything I need and so I've turned off the EQ in my Velodyne DD series sub.



Nice to know it digs deep. I think I would try it both ways. Others have suggested letting the sub do its thing would reduce the processing load on the Anthem, but not sure what benefit that would provide.


----------



## Mr. Foo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16475442
> 
> 
> You need to re-install V1.33 *AFTER* the AVM 50 ARC DSP board hardware is installed so that the firmware properly recognizes the newly installed DSP board. This is true even if you already have firmware V1.33 in the AVM 50.
> 
> 
> You can download the AVM 50 V1.33 installer from here:
> 
> http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...edProduct.html
> 
> 
> To do the install you will need a Windows computer with a serial port (or serial port adapter).
> 
> 
> Make sure you have no powered HDMI connections (sources or display) during the install. Also, go into Setup and do a Reload Factory Defaults prior to doing the install.
> 
> 
> Once you complete the install, see if you can get audio using the built-in test tones (Setup > Level Calibration). If you are using Triggers to turn on your amps, make sure the Trigger configuration is correct and that your amps really are turning on.
> 
> 
> If re-installing V1.33 on top of itself doesn't fix things for you, give Anthem tech support a call on Monday. The ARC upgrade has its own warranty, and they'll be able to sort things out for you.
> 
> --Bob



I hadn't upgraded the software from what I had originally before giving the unit to the dealer for ARC install, but that doesn't mean that he didn't do the SW upgrade first himself. I will reload it and see if it fixes things, thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

PaulF,

Sure, send the lip-sync suggestion to Anthem. They really do consider such suggestions.


Keep in mind that if you have the video output set properly in the D2v there is very little work the display might have to do in the way of video processing. The heavy lifting is already being done in the D2v (same for both displays) The point is, you probably won't find a need for different sync settings.


----------------------------


ARC Measures the output from all speakers, including the sub, and corrects ALL of them. In other words, ARC will build a solution that ALREADY works to fill in problems in bass output from your full range speakers. Presuming you have told ARC to build a solution including the subwoofer, ARC will adjust both the main speaker and sub outputs to blend them.


If you are worried about bass output from your full range main speakers, I suggest you *NOT* force ARC to use them as full range. That way it will have full flexibility to set bass steering as necessary.


The ARC charts will show you what ARC is doing so you can see for yourself.


-------------------------------


I suppose some people want to change between dipole and direct according to whether they are listening to movies or music. Personally I've never been a big fan of dipole speakers but many people like them.


As for triggering, if you haven't already used all of the Trigger outputs you can set one that only turns on for sources you have set to use the Movie configuration or vice versa.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16475061
> 
> 
> I trust you are not seriously expecting a response from Nick over the weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course we here at "Bob Pariseau" find that being shackled to one's computer can actually become quite comfortable after you get used to it....
> 
> 
> That aside, the extra info you sent Nick should prove quite helpful, as it makes clear you aren't doing something strange in your measurements.
> 
> 
> By the way, you've probably mentioned it, but are we talking about a D2 here or the new D2v version?
> 
> --Bob



What, Nick takes days off










It's the D2, not the new D2V.


Actually I do need to find out pretty soon if it's a hardware problem effecting my D2 only or if it's a firmware problem effecting all D2's. Reason being I'm leaving for the Philippines next week and will be gone a few weeks. If the D2 has to be gone a few weeks I want it to be the same few weeks I'm gone. Hopefully Nick can bench test one there and if he finds the same problems then I know all I have to do is wait for the firmware update. If he finds no problems then I need to drop mine off at the dealer before I leave.


Monte


----------



## PaulF

Bob, I don't know if I will have a problem with delays on the two display devices yet, I have heard that when the LCDs run interpolation it increases the delay. The feature is more about having the flexibility if it comes up. I will send Nick a note.


-------------------------------------


Perhaps I am not familiar enough with ARC to fully understand what you are telling me, or perhaps I have not explained myself properly. My 10 year old Yamaha receiver can send all bass to the sub+mains, but that results in boomy bass.


What I want to be able to do is send full range signals to the fronts without setting them to small, and at the same time send just the crossed over, say 

If the D2v can do this, then yes ARC would be useful in ensuring I obtain the flattest freq. response across front speakers and subs.


-------------------------------------


Ahhh, it sounds like I can set triggers based on movie/music settings. Are there two stored sets of settings, one for each application?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/16477130
> 
> 
> Perhaps I am not familiar enough with ARC to fully understand what you are telling me, or perhaps I have not explained myself properly. My 10 year old Yamaha receiver can send all bass to the sub+mains, but that results in boomy bass.
> 
> 
> What I want to be able to do is send full range signals to the fronts without setting them to small, and at the same time send just the crossed over, say
> 
> If the D2v can do this, then yes ARC would be useful in ensuring I obtain the flattest freq. response across front speakers and subs.



I believe in ARC, if you set the fronts to the 25Hz, and the Sub to 120Hz, you'll get what you want? That is, all front-channel bass will be steered to the fronts, and the LFE will be fully sent to the sub?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/16477130
> 
> 
> Bob, I don't know if I will have a problem with delays on the two display devices yet, I have heard that when the LCDs run interpolation it increases the delay. The feature is more about having the flexibility if it comes up. I will send Nick a note.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Perhaps I am not familiar enough with ARC to fully understand what you are telling me, or perhaps I have not explained myself properly. My 10 year old Yamaha receiver can send all bass to the sub+mains, but that results in boomy bass.
> 
> 
> What I want to be able to do is send full range signals to the fronts without setting them to small, and at the same time send just the crossed over, say
> 
> If the D2v can do this, then yes ARC would be useful in ensuring I obtain the flattest freq. response across front speakers and subs.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Ahhh, it sounds like I can set triggers based on movie/music settings. Are there two stored sets of settings, one for each application?



Yes there are two sets of saved speaker configurations (including ARC processing parameters) -- Movie and Music. Many folks just use one for all purposes.


You don't actually set the Trigger on Movie or Music. Instead you set it on the Source definition (e.g., DVD2). Each Source definition specifies whether it will use the Movie or Music speaker configuration -- as well as which Video Output configuration it will use.


If you just run ARC normally it will automatically use your main speakers as low as it thinks they can go (according to what it Measures), and the sub will fill in below that. You don't have to pick the crossover point -- ARC does that for you. If you set the speakers to "full range" that means no bass steering happens from those speakers. The sub plays only LFE content -- which is not what you want.


We have plenty of folks who've posted charts here showing results using speakers that are capable of full range but letting ARC make its automatic choice of how to do the crossover instead of forcing ARC to USE them as "full range". Typically this has resulted in crossovers around 40Hz unless the supposed full-range-capable main speakers actually have a problem at higher frequencies that shows up in the Measurements.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've completed testing the "test" V2.04c firmware against my list of bugs I previously reported to Anthem for V2.04.


The one significant bug fix I found is that V2.04c now correctly sends output to all speakers if you select PLIIx-Movie as the default surround sound processing mode for stereo input, and the audio stream changes to stereo. (The bug in V2.04 is that output only goes to LF/RF/Sub. WORKAROUND: Temporarily switch modes and back -- e.g., PLIIx-Music and back to PLIIx-Movie.)


Since V2.04c has some fixes for "snaps/crackles/pops", one thing I tested right away was whether the "snap/buzz" was still there when the HDMI Bitstream audio format changed from my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi SD-DVD player. Unfortunately, I still get the snap/buzz.


I also still get audio corruption or loss of audio using HDMI LPCM to the D2v when only one channel is active at a time -- as from some audio test discs.


And I'm still seeing the strange problems from either Component or HDMI video from my Comcast HD/DVR that appear to indicate Video Source Adjust menu settings are not being loaded properly. For Component it appears the Crop Input settings are not always loaded properly. For HDMI it appears the gray scale levels are not being loaded properly. The common factor when these things happen is that you can cure the problem by toggling Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Edges ON/OFF. (You can also cure it by cycling to a different input and back.)


Full details have been reported to Anthem.


---------------------------------------


I'll be reverting back to "official" V2.04 this afternoon to get my bass back. I also want to make sure the "sparklies" really do go away when using the Oppo at 1080p/60 36-bit Deep Color.


I've got a new Blu-Jeans cable on order just in case. Up to now I've been using the HDMI cable that came with my original Beta Oppo player.

--Bob


----------



## PArmola

ok Guys: Here it is - I just had Oppo replace my BDP83 that both Oppo and I felt had issues with SACD and DVD-A surround problems. That is to say, LF and RF failed to produce sound while playing those types of music through my D2. Now that I hooked up the replacement with new HDMI cable the problem still exists. NO SOUND on LF and RF. Surrounds work was well as subs. Yes, the D2 shows HDMI input for all the speakers through HDMI as well as other suggestions in the D2 menu you guys suggested. Kudo's to Oppo for their csutomer service (best I've seen in years). No my question is; Do you guys think that perhaps its and issue with the D2? DVD, BluRay, and other media work perfectly. Yes I have the Oppo set to output LPCM. I need some feedback before I contact Anthem as I really don't want to be without my audio. I have a Tosh XA2 that plays DVD-A correctly. Switched inputs, same results.


Paul


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/16477130
> 
> 
> Ahhh, it sounds like I can set triggers based on movie/music settings. Are there two stored sets of settings, one for each application?



I think I asked Anthem about this last year, and the issue was that ARC cannot store two different TYPES of speaker (monopole vs. dipole) in Movie/Music configurations.


I have B&W surround speakers that are able to switch between monopole and dipole with a 12v trigger. If I didn't use ARC, I could have my DVD movie setting (dipole) and a separate DVD music setting for concert video (monopole).


I played around with the switching and frankly the monopole setting really didn't sound significantly better for concerts. I'd much rather have ARC going.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just completed reverting back to V2.04 and everything is back to working the way it was.


In particular, bass is working again, and the "sparklies" are gone when using the Oppo at 1080p/60 36-bit Deep Color.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters

Bob just curious, what color were the 'sparklies' when you noticed them?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/16478251
> 
> 
> I think I asked Anthem about this last year, and the issue was that ARC cannot store two different TYPES of speaker (monopole vs. dipole) in Movie/Music configurations.
> 
> 
> I have B&W surround speakers that are able to switch between monopole and dipole with a 12v trigger. If I didn't use ARC, I could have my DVD movie setting (dipole) and a separate DVD music setting for concert video (monopole).
> 
> 
> I played around with the switching and frankly the monopole setting really didn't sound significantly better for concerts. I'd much rather have ARC going.



Ah! Good point! The setting for whether the surrounds are Direct or Dipole is outside of the stuff set up for Movie and Music -- i.e., there's only one setting for the type of speakers. It's not an ARC limitation per se; it's a limitation of how Speaker Configuration is recorded in the Setup menu.


I bet if you were using an RS-232 control system you could easily change the surround speaker type on the fly when changing sources.


During ARC Measurement, you would of course need to manually switch the speakers to Dipole for the Movie Measurement pass and to Direct for the Music Measurement pass.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16478292
> 
> 
> Bob just curious, what color were the 'sparklies' when you noticed them?



White sparklies visible in black or near black regions. There were also some signs of small-scale "boiling noise" in near black regions as if the low order bits of some of the dark grays were also varying. Classic signal degradation symptoms.


This sort of stuff almost always means you have a cable or socket problem. But in this case, nothing changed but the firmware.


Either V2.04 is not REALLY setting up 36-bit HDMI or V2.04c broke that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PArmola* /forum/post/16477663
> 
> 
> ok Guys: Here it is - I just had Oppo replace my BDP83 that both Oppo and I felt had issues with SACD and DVD-A surround problems. That is to say, LF and RF failed to produce sound while playing those types of music through my D2. Now that I hooked up the replacement with new HDMI cable the problem still exists. NO SOUND on LF and RF. Surrounds work was well as subs. Yes, the D2 shows HDMI input for all the speakers through HDMI as well as other suggestions in the D2 menu you guys suggested. Kudo's to Oppo for their csutomer service (best I've seen in years). No my question is; Do you guys think that perhaps its and issue with the D2? DVD, BluRay, and other media work perfectly. Yes I have the Oppo set to output LPCM. I need some feedback before I contact Anthem as I really don't want to be without my audio. I have a Tosh XA2 that plays DVD-A correctly. Switched inputs, same results.
> 
> 
> Paul



Give Anthem a call. They have Oppo BDP-83 test players.


As you know, the DVD-A stuff in the Oppo BDP-83 is still a work in progress, so your problem may be disc specific (i.e., be prepared to provide the disc title and bar-code number). Keep working the issue with both Oppo and Anthem. They'll get you sorted out.


Frankly the fact that you are having problems with SACD is more troubling.


Be sure you have the Oppo set to output SACD as PCM (Setup > Audio Format Setup > SACD Output) in ADDITION to having the HDMI output set to LPCM.


Also, if you are using a Trigger to turn on the amps, make sure you have the triggers set up properly for the Oppo source so that your LF/RF amp is actually turning on.


And make sure the video from the Oppo is 720p or higher while playing these discs. The high-bandwidth multi-channel audio won't fit properly into the HDMI signal at 480i or 480p (just the way HDMI works).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, for folks looking for discs to test high bandwidth audio on the D2v, check out this new release:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DDY6US 


There's about an hour of classical music repeated in various different audio formats.


First there is a Blu-Ray disc which has the following tracks:

LPCM: Stereo 24bit / 192KHz

LPCM: 5.1 24bit / 192KHz

Dolby Digital: 5.1 48KHz

Dolby TrueHD: 5.1 24bit / 192KHz

DTS-HD MA: 5.1 24bit / 192KHz


Then there is also an SACD hybrid disc which has the following tracks:

DSD Stereo 2.8224 Mbit/sec/channel

DSD 5.1 2.8224 Mbit/sec/channel

CD Stereo 16bit / 44.1KHz


Each of these is produced from the same DXD master that is capable of 11.2896 Mbit/sec/channel


So you can use these tracks to compare different encoding formats, and to compare decoding in player vs. decoding in the D2v. You can also use these to compare multi-channel analog vs. HDMI.


Of course the D2v doesn't accept DSD directly, so you need an SACD player that converts that to LPCM. The Oppo BDP-83, for example, sends this as 88.2KHz LPCM to the D2v


There are no 7.1 tracks on these discs. So far, I believe the only 7.1 audiophile discs out there are ones that have been produced by studio processing of 5.1 masters made for SACD or DVD-A discs. See the Blu-Ray "audio only" discs from Acoustic Reality for example (also available from Amazon).


My only real complaint with this combo is that the audio tracks on the Blu-Ray disc can only be selected by going through the disc menu. You can't change between them on the fly using the Audio button on your player.


And of course many SACD players may make you go through some hoops to switch between the 3 tracks on the SACD disc.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PArmola* /forum/post/16477663
> 
> 
> ok Guys: Here it is - I just had Oppo replace my BDP83 that both Oppo and I felt had issues with SACD and DVD-A surround problems. That is to say, LF and RF failed to produce sound while playing those types of music through my D2. Now that I hooked up the replacement with new HDMI cable the problem still exists. NO SOUND on LF and RF. Surrounds work was well as subs. Yes, the D2 shows HDMI input for all the speakers through HDMI as well as other suggestions in the D2 menu you guys suggested. Kudo's to Oppo for their csutomer service (best I've seen in years). No my question is; Do you guys think that perhaps its and issue with the D2? DVD, BluRay, and other media work perfectly. Yes I have the Oppo set to output LPCM. I need some feedback before I contact Anthem as I really don't want to be without my audio. I have a Tosh XA2 that plays DVD-A correctly. Switched inputs, same results.
> 
> 
> Paul



Paul I kind of thought it was the D2 all along, very similar to the problem I had on my original D2. My issue first showed up on the Toshiba A1 but I think my Pioneer 79AVi showed it too. I didn't realize the XA2 did DVD-A but it has been a while since the format war ended and I haven't kept tabs on Toshiba. Oh and DVD-A is working fine on my BDP-83 and D2 combo, so hang in there it can work.


----------



## Nicoff

Dweltman, you have a PM.


----------



## PaulF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/16478251
> 
> 
> I think I asked Anthem about this last year, and the issue was that ARC cannot store two different TYPES of speaker (monopole vs. dipole) in Movie/Music configurations.
> 
> 
> I have B&W surround speakers that are able to switch between monopole and dipole with a 12v trigger. If I didn't use ARC, I could have my DVD movie setting (dipole) and a separate DVD music setting for concert video (monopole).
> 
> 
> I played around with the switching and frankly the monopole setting really didn't sound significantly better for concerts. I'd much rather have ARC going.



No problem, I have chosen to go with B&W monopole surrounds, dipoles always presented a more restricted freq. response due to the multiple drivers being smaller, and I don't really need them with just single row seating.


I was just wondering what kind of setup was used to trigger between the two modes, probably a manual trigger.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/16480029
> 
> 
> No problem, I have chosen to go with B&W monopole surrounds, dipoles always presented a more restricted freq. response due to the multiple drivers being smaller, and I don't really need them with just single row seating.



Just a clarification on the B&W dipoles (I assume that you are talking about the DS8S). The only speaker that is not present in dipole mode is the center tweeter; the center low frequency speaker operates in all modes. If you look that the frequency response for the DS8S there is actually a high frequency roll off that I can only assume is deliberate and incorporated to try and reduce directionality.


I am not saying you are wrong to go with the monopoles, just wanted to point out that the B&W DS8S dipoles do have a large driver in dipole mode.


----------



## funlvr1965

Anyone know what the recommended ambient temp range for the D2? I'm setting up a middle atlantic ERK rack and the d2 will be at the top with two fans in the top cover of the rack, the fans will be controlled with a middle atlantic fan contoller whose temp range is 80-90 F, 85-95 F and 90-100 F will this thermostat work for keeping the D2 operating temp under control? I need to know before I purchase the thermostat.

Thanks in advance, trying to call a buddy about it also but it's still early


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem doesn't list an operating temperature range for the D2 in its specifications. Personally, I try to keep the temp surrounding my D2v below 80, but the D2v doesn't seem to have a problem if it gets somewhat higher. My older D2 was the same, even though I had the original, hotter running power supply in it.


Note that this is the temperature SURROUNDING the Anthem not the temp of the Anthem chassis itself -- e.g., air temperature, or, what I measure, the surface temperature of the surface above the Anthem. The chassis is SUPPOSED to warm up and the vents, particularly over the power supply, are supposed to emit heated air. What's important is whether that heat is being dissipated away from the area of the Anthem or whether it gets trapped so the Anthem is now in an oven.


I suggest you send an email to Anthem tech support and ask for their recommendation on fan control temps for rack mounting. Please do post any response you get back.

--Bob


----------



## PaulF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16481364
> 
> 
> Just a clarification on the B&W dipoles (I assume that you are talking about the DS8S). The only speaker that is not present in dipole mode is the center tweeter; the center low frequency speaker operates in all modes. If you look that the frequency response for the DS8S there is actually a high frequency roll off that I can only assume is deliberate and incorporated to try and reduce directionality.
> 
> 
> I am not saying you are wrong to go with the monopoles, just wanted to point out that the B&W DS8S dipoles do have a large driver in dipole mode.



Mike, like all things it was a multi-faceted decision. I wanted more highs and more lows. I did not like the look of the DS8S with the screens on as it just becomes a fabric covered box on the wall. So I looked at in-wall, first the CWM DS8 but eventually settled in the CWM 8180.


----------



## Doozer428

Anyone have this problem with their d2v?


I thought it was just my pvr and its HDMI issues (8300hd), but I recently switched to component and it's still doing it occasionally. What happens is all the colors on the screen are reversed. It's like the picture is a negative image of what it should be. The only way to fix it seems to be to reboot the d2v.


Sometimes it happens from the moment I turn it on... other times it happens when I change channels from a 480i feed to an HD feed (or vice versa). I don't think I've seen it happen with the PS3 as the source, which could indicate it's doing it when the scaler is being asked to convert a signal to 1080p.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16477403
> 
> 
> I've completed testing the "test" V2.04c firmware against my list of bugs I previously reported to Anthem for V2.04.
> 
> 
> The one significant bug fix I found is that V2.04c now correctly sends output to all speakers if you select PLIIx-Movie as the default surround sound processing mode for stereo input, and the audio stream changes to stereo. (The bug in V2.04 is that output only goes to LF/RF/Sub. WORKAROUND: Temporarily switch modes and back -- e.g., PLIIx-Music and back to PLIIx-Movie.)
> 
> 
> Since V2.04c has some fixes for "snaps/crackles/pops", one thing I tested right away was whether the "snap/buzz" was still there when the HDMI Bitstream audio format changed from my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi SD-DVD player. Unfortunately, I still get the snap/buzz.
> 
> 
> I also still get audio corruption or loss of audio using HDMI LPCM to the D2v when only one channel is active at a time -- as from some audio test discs.
> 
> 
> And I'm still seeing the strange problems from either Component or HDMI video from my Comcast HD/DVR that appear to indicate Video Source Adjust menu settings are not being loaded properly. For Component it appears the Crop Input settings are not always loaded properly. For HDMI it appears the gray scale levels are not being loaded properly. The common factor when these things happen is that you can cure the problem by toggling Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Edges ON/OFF. (You can also cure it by cycling to a different input and back.)
> 
> 
> Full details have been reported to Anthem.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I'll be reverting back to "official" V2.04 this afternoon to get my bass back. I also want to make sure the "sparklies" really do go away when using the Oppo at 1080p/60 36-bit Deep Color.
> 
> 
> I've got a new Blu-Jeans cable on order just in case. Up to now I've been using the HDMI cable that came with my original Beta Oppo player.
> 
> --Bob



Bob is the PS3 capable of 36 bit deep color? Also, can the oppo output 36bit deep color at 1080p24 as well? I have the new JVC RS20 which I think is capable of displaying deep color. I suppose I would need to upgrade to the newer version of the d2 to take advantage of this? Or, are the sources such as bluray not yet encoded with deep color? I guess I am wondering when I should start caring about "deep color" and what I equipment I will need in the chain to start viewing it.


Thanks


-Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16482702
> 
> 
> Anyone have this problem with their d2v?
> 
> 
> I thought it was just my pvr and its HDMI issues (8300hd), but I recently switched to component and it's still doing it occasionally. What happens is all the colors on the screen are reversed. It's like the picture is a negative image of what it should be. The only way to fix it seems to be to reboot the d2v.
> 
> 
> Sometimes it happens from the moment I turn it on... other times it happens when I change channels from a 480i feed to an HD feed (or vice versa). I don't think I've seen it happen with the PS3 as the source, which could indicate it's doing it when the scaler is being asked to convert a signal to 1080p.



Craig,

I have the same combo and I haven't seen this.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16482702
> 
> 
> Anyone have this problem with their d2v?
> 
> 
> I thought it was just my pvr and its HDMI issues (8300hd), but I recently switched to component and it's still doing it occasionally. What happens is all the colors on the screen are reversed. It's like the picture is a negative image of what it should be. The only way to fix it seems to be to reboot the d2v.
> 
> 
> Sometimes it happens from the moment I turn it on... other times it happens when I change channels from a 480i feed to an HD feed (or vice versa). I don't think I've seen it happen with the PS3 as the source, which could indicate it's doing it when the scaler is being asked to convert a signal to 1080p.



Make sure you are running the latest D2v firmware -- V2.04. Press Select once on the remote to see the firmware version number. If you are running older firmware, please update to V2.04 before you try anything else. There are numerous important bug fixes in V2.04.


In Setup > Video Output specify a specific data format for the output to your display rather than using the Auto setting. Typically you will use YCbCr 4:4:4 for and HDMI display and Studio RGB for a DVI display. This simplifies the HDMI handshake -- which has to happen even when the source device is Component.


If you are not seeing the problem with the PS3 then it is likely not an HDMI cable quality problem.


If neither of these solves the problem, give Anthem tech support a call. You should definitely not be having a problem like this using Component input.


I don't know about the 8300, but the Motorola cable boxes are known for spontaneously changing their video output settings for no good reason. When the problem happens, check any video output settings you can find in the 8300. Also hold the "7" button on the Anthem remote to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu and look in the Info panel of that to see what the Anthem thinks is coming in from the 8300. If you determine the 8300 is switching settings for no good reason, get a replacement from your provider.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16482735
> 
> 
> Bob is the PS3 capable of 36 bit deep color? Also, can the oppo output 36bit deep color at 1080p24 as well? I have the new JVC RS20 which I think is capable of displaying deep color. I suppose I would need to upgrade to the newer version of the d2 to take advantage of this? Or, are the sources such as bluray not yet encoded with deep color? I guess I am wondering when I should start caring about "deep color" and what I equipment I will need in the chain to start viewing it.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> -Bob



The D2 does not support 30 or 36 bit (Deep Color) HDMI connections for input or output. To use this you will need to switch to the D2v or AVM 50v. (The internal video path in the D2 is 30 bit, but its input and output are limited to 24 bit.)


The PS3 is capable of 36 bit deep color output, but I've never seen a good analysis of whether it is doing anything special with that. For example, it is easy to cheat and send out 36 bit HDMI by just tacking low order 0 bits onto what is in reality just 24 bit video data.


Unfortunately, there is no way to get the D2v to display the bit depth of the video it is receiving, so I've not found a way to confirm the PS3 really is making a 36-bit connection to the D2v. There is no way to specify whether or not to use 36 bit video in the PS3. Supposedly, it just decides to do it on its own based on what it gets back from the device it is connected to.


Folks hooking the PS3 to newer displays have been able to confirm that the display thinks it is getting 36 bit video, so the PS3 really does make such connections. But again, I've not found a way to confirm that's actually happening with the D2v and NOBODY has found any evidence so far that the PS3 is actually doing anything different to take advantage of a 36 bit HDMI connection when it is in effect.


------------------------------------------


The Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player is definitely able to make both 30 and 36 bit HDMI connections (as well as the normal 24 bit). And even though there is no status display that shows it, I've convinced myself that really is working by changing the output from the Oppo.


The video data path inside the D2v is 36 bit (regardless of what the source or display are doing).


The Oppo's video processing engine apparently DOES take advantage of 36 bit HDMI connections to hold the rounding bits that result from its internal processing stages. It is NOT trying to do any sort of magic image enhancement processing. What it is doing is normal things like de-interlacing and scaling. But it preserves rounding bits from those.


The content on disc (Blu-Ray or SD-DVD) is only 24 bit. This is true of ALL discs. The formats don't support greater than 24 bit. And in fact it is even worse than that because both Blu-Ray and SD-DVD only record color information half as often vertically and half as often horizontally as gray scale information. The process of calculating a color for every pixel from that data coming off the disc is called Color Upsampling. Every player has to do it. Think of it as another form of scaling. And this is also a potential source of "rounding bits".


So far I've not found any real-world examples where a 36 bit connection from the Oppo produces better results than a traditional, 24 bit connection. Basically this means I've not yet found a case where preserving the "rounding bits" makes a visible difference.

--Bob


----------



## thevendetta

Just wondering if there is any development on the appletv hdmi front. Also, does anyone use an Xbox360 with their D2v. I am having the same issue with the Xbox through hdmi as the appletv.


Thanks,

Nick


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16482432
> 
> 
> Anthem doesn't list an operating temperature range for the D2 in its specifications. Personally, I try to keep the temp surrounding my D2v below 80, but the D2v doesn't seem to have a problem if it gets somewhat higher. My older D2 was the same, even though I had the original, hotter running power supply in it.
> 
> 
> Note that this is the temperature SURROUNDING the Anthem not the temp of the Anthem chassis itself -- e.g., air temperature, or, what I measure, the surface temperature of the surface above the Anthem. The chassis is SUPPOSED to warm up and the vents, particularly over the power supply, are supposed to emit heated air. What's important is whether that heat is being dissipated away from the area of the Anthem or whether it gets trapped so the Anthem is now in an oven.
> 
> 
> I suggest you send an email to Anthem tech support and ask for their recommendation on fan control temps for rack mounting. Please do post any response you get back.
> 
> --Bob



Bob I called this morning and left a message and also emailed, nothing back yet, I have t assum that 2 fans mounted above the unit pulling hot air out of the cabinet should be sufficient, I called Middleatlantic this morning for a thermal action plan and I feel tha they have me on the right track I just need to have the rack pull in fresh air from the bottom, close off the back and front sufficiently so the fan can create the necessary air draw out of the rack. thanks for your response


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thevendetta* /forum/post/16483968
> 
> 
> Just wondering if there is any development on the appletv hdmi front. Also, does anyone use an Xbox360 with their D2v. I am having the same issue with the Xbox through hdmi as the appletv.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Nick



Yes, Anthem believes they have now found a fix that supports HDMI from AppleTV without also breaking HDMI from a variety of cable boxes.


The fix is included in the "test" V2.04c firmware now up on Anthem's password protected download page. Unfortunately this "test" firmware has other significant problems so I don't suggest you try it yet unless you just want to experiment with AppleTV, report your results to Anthem, and then revert back to "official" V2.04 firmware.


Presumably Anthem will fix the problems in V2.04c in short order and we'll have new "test" software in a few days.


----------------------------------


Nick tells me he also expects this AppleTV related fix to be included in the upcoming V1.34 firmware release for the D2 and AVM 50.

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/16484051
> 
> 
> Bob I called this morning and left a message and also emailed, nothing back yet, I have t assum that 2 fans mounted above the unit pulling hot air out of the cabinet should be sufficient, I called Middleatlantic this morning for a thermal action plan and I feel tha they have me on the right track I just need to have the rack pull in fresh air from the bottom, close off the back and front sufficiently so the fan can create the necessary air draw out of the rack. thanks for your response



It's a Canadian Holiday today so I don't except you'll hear anything today.


----------



## PaulF

If anyone purchased a D2v in the last few months and got a good deal, please PM me so that I know what to shoot for.


Thanks.


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16482702
> 
> 
> Anyone have this problem with their d2v?
> 
> 
> I thought it was just my pvr and its HDMI issues (8300hd), but I recently switched to component and it's still doing it occasionally. What happens is all the colors on the screen are reversed. It's like the picture is a negative image of what it should be. The only way to fix it seems to be to reboot the d2v.
> 
> 
> Sometimes it happens from the moment I turn it on... other times it happens when I change channels from a 480i feed to an HD feed (or vice versa). I don't think I've seen it happen with the PS3 as the source, which could indicate it's doing it when the scaler is being asked to convert a signal to 1080p.



I had the same problem (SA8300 -> D2v using component) until I went to V2.04. Now everything works great.


----------



## Doozer428

Interesting... I've never used anything but 2.04. It's what came with my D2v.


I guess I'll keep an eye on it and see what happens. If it had only occurred on HDMI, I would have blamed that since there are all kinds of issues on HDMI with the 8300. But I can't understand why it would do it over component too.


Oh, and just fyi, the color mixup happens sometimes on the on-screen display, regardless of what source is selected.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16485607
> 
> 
> Interesting... I've never used anything but 2.04. It's what came with my D2v.
> 
> 
> I guess I'll keep an eye on it and see what happens. If it had only occurred on HDMI, I would have blamed that since there are all kinds of issues on HDMI with the 8300. But I can't understand why it would do it over component too.
> 
> 
> Oh, and just fyi, the color mixup happens sometimes on the on-screen display, regardless of what source is selected.



Anthem tech support may ask you to try a re-install of the V2.04 firmware "just in case".


Do check the Video Output data format setting as I suggested, and if that doesn't fix it for you, give Anthem tech support a call or send them an email. There's no reason you should have to live with this problem. They'll get it sorted out.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16478942
> 
> 
> By the way, for folks looking for discs to test high bandwidth audio on the D2v, check out this new release:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DDY6US
> 
> 
> There's about an hour of classical music repeated in various different audio formats.
> 
> 
> First there is a Blu-Ray disc which has the following tracks:
> 
> LPCM: Stereo 24bit / 192KHz
> 
> LPCM: 5.1 24bit / 192KHz
> 
> Dolby Digital: 5.1 48KHz
> 
> Dolby TrueHD: 5.1 24bit / 192KHz
> 
> DTS-HD MA: 5.1 24bit / 192KHz
> 
> 
> Then there is also an SACD hybrid disc which has the following tracks:
> 
> DSD Stereo 2.8224 Mbit/sec/channel
> 
> DSD 5.1 2.8224 Mbit/sec/channel
> 
> CD Stereo 16bit / 44.1KHz
> 
> 
> Each of these is produced from the same DXD master that is capable of 11.2896 Mbit/sec/channel
> 
> 
> So you can use these tracks to compare different encoding formats, and to compare decoding in player vs. decoding in the D2v. You can also use these to compare multi-channel analog vs. HDMI.
> 
> 
> Of course the D2v doesn't accept DSD directly, so you need an SACD player that converts that to LPCM. The Oppo BDP-83, for example, sends this as 88.2KHz LPCM to the D2v
> 
> 
> There are no 7.1 tracks on these discs. So far, I believe the only 7.1 audiophile discs out there are ones that have been produced by studio processing of 5.1 masters made for SACD or DVD-A discs. See the Blu-Ray "audio only" discs from Acoustic Reality for example (also available from Amazon).
> 
> 
> My only real complaint with this combo is that the audio tracks on the Blu-Ray disc can only be selected by going through the disc menu. You can't change between them on the fly using the Audio button on your player.
> 
> 
> And of course many SACD players may make you go through some hoops to switch between the 3 tracks on the SACD disc.
> 
> --Bob



Please keep in mind that there is bug is sending the BR 192/24 tracks to the D2V, I have been unable to make it work successfully with either the PS3 or the Oppo. The SACD of course works fine with either the PS3 or the Oppo into the D2V


----------



## PArmola




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16478397
> 
> 
> Give Anthem a call. They have Oppo BDP-83 test players.
> 
> 
> As you know, the DVD-A stuff in the Oppo BDP-83 is still a work in progress, so your problem may be disc specific (i.e., be prepared to provide the disc title and bar-code number). Keep working the issue with both Oppo and Anthem. They'll get you sorted out.
> 
> 
> Frankly the fact that you are having problems with SACD is more troubling.
> 
> 
> Be sure you have the Oppo set to output SACD as PCM (Setup > Audio Format Setup > SACD Output) in ADDITION to having the HDMI output set to LPCM.
> 
> 
> Also, if you are using a Trigger to turn on the amps, make sure you have the triggers set up properly for the Oppo source so that your LF/RF amp is actually turning on.
> 
> 
> And make sure the video from the Oppo is 720p or higher while playing these discs. The high-bandwidth multi-channel audio won't fit properly into the HDMI signal at 480i or 480p (just the way HDMI works).
> 
> --Bob



Bob - Adjusted as you stated. The DVD-A discs play well when the Oppo is set to Bitstream and I let the D2 handle the audio conversion. The SACD I set to LPCM and yet still the problem. I understand issues with DVD-A is a work in progress. I note this as some DVD-A discs will skip through the first track and then play fine doing bitstream. The SACD I'm guessing is an issue within the D2 and LPCM. I think the issue may be something to do with HDMI and my particular D2. Not sure, but I will call Anthem and see what they say. Oppo walked me/talked me through the Oppo and they seemed somewhat supprised as well. The replacement, cam with the new firmware installed. The D2 is using 1.33, I even wiped the D2 and re-installed the latest firmware. Not sure what's going on. Kinda bummed though. Again kudo's to Oppo, those guys are the best.


Paul


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/16486724
> 
> 
> Please keep in mind that there is bug is sending the BR 192/24 tracks to the D2V, I have been unable to make it work successfully with either the PS3 or the Oppo. The SACD of course works fine with either the PS3 or the Oppo into the D2V



Remind me of the bug you found. It appears to be working for me using the Oppo BDP-83 -- either as HDMI LPCM or HDMI bitstream -- for TrueHD and for DTS-HD MA. And of course the raw LPCM track also works from this disc.


I've not tried this disc in the PS3 yet.

--Bob


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16486452
> 
> 
> Anthem tech support may ask you to try a re-install of the V2.04 firmware "just in case".
> 
> 
> Do check the Video Output data format setting as I suggested, and if that doesn't fix it for you, give Anthem tech support a call or send them an email. There's no reason you should have to live with this problem. They'll get it sorted out.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I'll try forcing it to the 4:4:4 setting and see if that eliminates the problem. Interesting... since I posted this, the issue hasn't reappeared yet. ha. go figure.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/16482702
> 
> 
> Anyone have this problem with their d2v?




I would like to have problem with my D2V! Obviously for this I would need a D2V.










No further news on the upgrade.


----------



## thevendetta

Hey guys...


Sorry for all of the newbie questions... this is my first venture into HT. So far I am blown away from the sound I am getting from the D2v and A5 combo. Before that I was given a ROTEL 1560 to use until my Anthem combo came in... I was apprehensive about spending this kind of dough on equipment but it was WELL worth it - and I haven't even scratched the surface! I will be mounting my surrounds finally this week and the dealer is going to send out a tech to walk me through ARCing my room...


Anyway, I am having problems bitstreaming the HD codecs to the D2v from my Panasonic BD35. I am 90% on ordering the Oppo but can wait a little bit as long as I can get this to work... It worked fine with the last two AVR's I was using. Not sure what I am doing wrong...


Sorry if this has been covered- I appreciate any advice...


Thanks!

Nick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thevendetta* /forum/post/16491077
> 
> 
> Hey guys...
> 
> 
> Sorry for all of the newbie questions... this is my first venture into HT. So far I am blown away from the sound I am getting from the D2v and A5 combo. Before that I was given a ROTEL 1560 to use until my Anthem combo came in... I was apprehensive about spending this kind of dough on equipment but it was WELL worth it - and I haven't even scratched the surface! I will be mounting my surrounds finally this week and the dealer is going to send out a tech to walk me through ARCing my room...
> 
> 
> Anyway, I am having problems bitstreaming the HD codecs to the D2v from my Panasonic BD35. I am 90% on ordering the Oppo but can wait a little bit as long as I can get this to work... It worked fine with the last two AVR's I was using. Not sure what I am doing wrong...
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been covered- I appreciate any advice...
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Nick



It should be straightforward. Try playing a disc with a raw (uncompressed) LPCM track. If HDMI LPCM works from the Panny then you've get the settings correct in the D2v.


If even HDMI LPCM doesn't work, then double check your Setup > Source Setup settings for that input. Remember that you have to send HDMI video to the scaler in order to get HDMI audio.


ETA: Also double check that the V2.04 firmware is installed in your D2v. Press Select once on the remote to see the firmware version number.

--Bob


----------



## dseliger

Any April orderer's get their D2v yet or are we still in march?


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thevendetta* /forum/post/16491077
> 
> 
> Hey guys...
> 
> 
> Sorry for all of the newbie questions... this is my first venture into HT. So far I am blown away from the sound I am getting from the D2v and A5 combo. Before that I was given a ROTEL 1560 to use until my Anthem combo came in... I was apprehensive about spending this kind of dough on equipment but it was WELL worth it - and I haven't even scratched the surface! I will be mounting my surrounds finally this week and the dealer is going to send out a tech to walk me through ARCing my room...
> 
> 
> Anyway, I am having problems bitstreaming the HD codecs to the D2v from my Panasonic BD35. I am 90% on ordering the Oppo but can wait a little bit as long as I can get this to work... It worked fine with the last two AVR's I was using. Not sure what I am doing wrong...
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been covered- I appreciate any advice...
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Nick



I was wwondering whats so good about the Oppo? I have a sony 550 not one problem yet. I plan to buy another BR player mabey a sony 560 or something else.


----------



## Lreid65

I was curious regarding any info' available for upgrading my AVM30, so I sent off on email to Anthem and I thought I'd share their reply:


*****

Details are still being worked out for the upgrade plan including AVM 30/40/50 and D1/D2. Final costing and a technical details are among the items waiting approval. In June there will be an announcement to dealers and on our website regarding the new program. All upgrades are done here in the factory, you do not have to go through a local dealer.

Thanks


Piero Ferrari

Anthem Tech Support

*****


----------



## thevendetta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *osofast240sx* /forum/post/16491273
> 
> 
> I was wwondering whats so good about the Oppo? I have a sony 550 not one problem yet. I plan to buy another BR player mabey a sony 560 or something else.



Well, I want the versatility of a universal player... And the reviews for this beast are great. One compared the analog section of this player to his Esoteric SACD player... Which in my opinion is pretty great. In any event OPPO has gotten a great reputation - and seem to have a support team similar to Anthem... Any company that is constantly trying to perfect and improve their product as well as interact with their customers is valuable to me. And from what I gather they have a great track record... All that plus the price - it doesn't seem like this player can be beat...


----------



## thevendetta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/16491146
> 
> 
> Any April orderer's get their D2v yet or are we still in march?



I ordered mine the middle of March and just received it last Friday. I was told mine was one of the last sent out before the next delay...


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thevendetta* /forum/post/16491542
> 
> 
> I ordered mine the middle of March and just received it last Friday. I was told mine was one of the last sent out before the next delay...



Bummer, i wonder how long the next delay is.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lreid65* /forum/post/16491422
> 
> 
> I was curious regarding any info' available for upgrading my AVM30, so I sent off on email to Anthem and I thought I'd share their reply:
> 
> 
> *****
> 
> Details are still being worked out for the upgrade plan including AVM 30/40/50 and D1/D2. Final costing and a technical details are among the items waiting approval. In June there will be an announcement to dealers and on our website regarding the new program. All upgrades are done here in the factory, you do not have to go through a local dealer.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Piero Ferrari
> 
> Anthem Tech Support
> 
> *****



I had presumed there would (eventually) be an upgrade program for the AVM 30 -> AVM 50v since you can already upgrade an AVM 30 -> AVM 50.


But it is actually quite interesting that they might have an upgrade path for AVM 40 customers.

--Bob


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thevendetta* /forum/post/16491513
> 
> 
> In any event OPPO has gotten a great reputation - and seem to have a support team similar to Anthem... Any company that is constantly trying to perfect and improve their product as well as interact with their customers is valuable to me. And from what I gather they have a great track record... All that plus the price - it doesn't seem like this player can be beat...



ok, im sold


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/16491574
> 
> 
> Bummer, i wonder how long the next delay is.



My dealer placed my order March 24, I'm still waiting.


I am keeping my fingers crossed that it might come for me to enjoy over the Memorial Day weekend but hopes are fading.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick tells me they are working on the problem reports re "test" firmware V2.04c. But no ETA yet on when the next "test" version might come out.


He didn't go into specifics except to mention the bass problem has been confirmed (it is actually 15dB low).

--Bob


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16492239
> 
> 
> Nick tells me they are working on the problem reports re "test" firmware V2.04c. But no ETA yet on when the next "test" version might come out.
> 
> 
> He didn't go into specifics except to mention the bass problem has been confirmed (it is actually 15dB low).
> 
> --Bob



Bob;

how does this bug relate to the known bass bug in the official software? Is that still an issue with 2.04?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/16492592
> 
> 
> Bob;
> 
> how does this bug relate to the known bass bug in the official software? Is that still an issue with 2.04?



There is no bass problem in "official" V2.04. There was a bass problem in earlier D2v and AVM 50v firmware but it was fixed. The problem in "test" V2.04c is new, and I'm sure it too will be fixed.


By the way, I believe you asked a question about 192KHz/24bit audio. What problem were you seeing? It seems to work fine for me.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib

I just watched this new blu-ray on the D2V with 2.04 firmware..


Blu-ray player is the sony 550..


I have the output on the D2V set to 1080p/24.



When watching this movie, the sound was send via bitstream to D2V, as DTS HD MA 5.1 (even though the box says it should be 6.1).



Anyway, I have an issue and wonder if anyone else did also..


The audio sync was really bad at times, and better at other times..



This is the first blu-ray that I noticed any audio sync issues.


The blu-ray is the North America verison..



Thanks..


----------



## lalarsons

Nick tells me he also expects this AppleTV related fix to be included in the upcoming V1.34 firmware release for the D2 and AVM 50.

--Bob[/quote]


Cable clutter reduction ahead!


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16492667
> 
> 
> There is no bass problem in "official" V2.04. There was a bass problem in earlier D2v and AVM 50v firmware but it was fixed. The problem in "test" V2.04c is new, and I'm sure it too will be fixed.
> 
> 
> By the way, I believe you asked a question about 192KHz/24bit audio. What problem were you seeing? It seems to work fine for me.
> 
> --Bob



I was referring to this:



"Known issue:


1. LFE gets redirected incorrectly if you have a speaker configuration without a sub and surrounds or rears are set to Large."


I think you are talking about a more general issue? The issue above still exists? Has been fixed?


If you are not having problems with Divertimenti, that is of concern to me. I will try it again tonight and get back to you...


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/14573776
> 
> 
> hi guys....been a while....I'd just like to know if there's been any progress with Anthem providing a 1080p/24 output from a 480i/60 source (via my Oppo 980H for example)?



I posted this back in Sept. 08...Bob replied "not yet". Sorry I haven't been keeping up with this monsterous thread. Can anyone confirm if the latest firmware in the new D2v provides the solution? At this stage, can we even look forward to such a solution anymore?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/16495509
> 
> 
> I posted this back in Sept. 08...Bob replied "not yet". Sorry I haven't been keeping up with this monsterous thread. Can anyone confirm if the latest firmware in the new D2v provides the solution? At this stage, can we even look forward to such a solution anymore?



The "test" V2.04c firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v currently on Anthem's password protected download page, is the first version to release proper 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion for film-based content.


Here's what the release notes say about that:



> Quote:
> 3. Limited implementation of inverse telecine (not totally stable). Use only if experimenting - set output to 1080p24 and frame lock to auto. It's normal for handshake to take longer.



There are some significant problems in that V2.04c "test" firmware, so it is likely folks here are avoiding it. We haven't had any posts yet from folks who've installed V2.04c and tried this inverse telecine stuff.


Last I heard from Nick on this (about a month ago), the main sticking point they had was getting it to work reliably with both HDMI outputs active from the D2v and AVM 50v. I don't know if they believe they've solved that for V2.04c.


In any event, they are obviously working on it, and we should have a final version "real soon now".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/16495026
> 
> 
> I was referring to this:
> 
> 
> 
> "Known issue:
> 
> 
> 1. LFE gets redirected incorrectly if you have a speaker configuration without a sub and surrounds or rears are set to Large."
> 
> 
> I think you are talking about a more general issue? The issue above still exists? Has been fixed?
> 
> 
> If you are not having problems with Divertimenti, that is of concern to me. I will try it again tonight and get back to you...



Sorry, I thought you were talking about a bass levels problem.


The bass steering problem you cited from the "official" V2.04 release notes is still in there as far as I know. Keep in mind it is limited to the rather unusual configuration where you have no subwoofer AND the side or rear surrounds are set to Large.


If you have a sub, there's no problem. And if you have no sub but the surrounds are set to Small (which is almost always the case anyway) bass steering from those to LF/RF works just fine.


-------------------------------------


I'm not having any problem with Divertimenti. Both HDMI Bitstream and HDMI LPCM of those 192KHz 24-bit tracks seems to be working just fine for me.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16494259
> 
> 
> I just watched this new blu-ray on the D2V with 2.04 firmware..
> 
> 
> Blu-ray player is the sony 550..
> 
> 
> I have the output on the D2V set to 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> 
> When watching this movie, the sound was send via bitstream to D2V, as DTS HD MA 5.1 (even though the box says it should be 6.1).
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I have an issue and wonder if anyone else did also..
> 
> 
> The audio sync was really bad at times, and better at other times..
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first blu-ray that I noticed any audio sync issues.
> 
> 
> The blu-ray is the North America verison..
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks..



You might want to look for a thread on this disc in the Blu-Ray Software forum here to see if other folks are reporting audio sync problems inherent in the content on disc.


-----------------------------------------


Apparently there are some very weird combos of DTS-HD MA coming out now. For example, Wall-E has a DTS-HD MA 5.1 track, but the "core" track embedded in that is 6.1 DTS ES Matrix!


Bolt is another disc that apparently has some strangeness here. We may be seeing a number of decoders getting tripped up by this.


Once again, DTS's ridiculously over the top complexity becomes the bane of Blu-Ray.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16494259
> 
> 
> I just watched this new blu-ray on the D2V with 2.04 firmware..
> 
> 
> Blu-ray player is the sony 550..
> 
> 
> I have the output on the D2V set to 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> 
> When watching this movie, the sound was send via bitstream to D2V, as DTS HD MA 5.1 (even though the box says it should be 6.1).
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I have an issue and wonder if anyone else did also..
> 
> 
> The audio sync was really bad at times, and better at other times..
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first blu-ray that I noticed any audio sync issues.
> 
> 
> The blu-ray is the North America verison..
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks..



Did you try PCM from the player?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16478942
> 
> 
> By the way, for folks looking for discs to test high bandwidth audio on the D2v, check out this new release:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DDY6US
> 
> 
> There's about an hour of classical music repeated in various different audio formats.
> 
> 
> First there is a Blu-Ray disc which has the following tracks:
> 
> LPCM: Stereo 24bit / 192KHz
> 
> LPCM: 5.1 24bit / 192KHz
> 
> Dolby Digital: 5.1 48KHz
> 
> Dolby TrueHD: 5.1 24bit / 192KHz
> 
> DTS-HD MA: 5.1 24bit / 192KHz
> 
> 
> Then there is also an SACD hybrid disc which has the following tracks:
> 
> DSD Stereo 2.8224 Mbit/sec/channel
> 
> DSD 5.1 2.8224 Mbit/sec/channel
> 
> CD Stereo 16bit / 44.1KHz
> 
> 
> Each of these is produced from the same DXD master that is capable of 11.2896 Mbit/sec/channel
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Here's a link to their newest disc, more of a sampler, which will be available next week.. same type of package, except no TrueHD.

Amazon Pre-Order for 2L "Nordic Sound." 


Here is a link to the liner notes PDF on the disc and the tech behind these recordings.. see the last pages of the doc.


NOTE THIS WILL DOWNLOAD THE PDF.

Nordic Sounds PDF 


And a link to their website... great audiophile stuff, good info... you can also download Hi Res FLAC's in 5.1 and 2.0.. I think most Anthem owners will see some cool stuff of interest there...

2L Website


----------



## dweltman

OK, Bob, I am really bummin'


Divertimento doesn't track properly with either most Bitstream or LPCM options for me. It does work with 5.1 DTSMA, where the Oppo only sends the 96/24 signal.


I tried 3 different HDMI cables, including the one that came with my Oppo. I tried using the HDMI4 input, just in case it was a problem of the HDMI jacks on the back of the D2V. I tried washing the disc with water. I previously encountered this problem with my PS3 before I got my Oppo, so it's not the Oppo. The last time I brought this up, you probably had not yet gotten a copy of this disc. I thought it was a firmware issue, but if it work for you it indicates there is a problem with my D2V receiving 192 signals. I hear the music with dropouts every other second and some buzzing noises.


Any other suggestions? I guess this is one for Nick, but I really am not looking forward to shipping the baby back across the border for repairs...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/16500535
> 
> 
> OK, Bob, I am really bummin'
> 
> 
> Divertimento doesn't track properly with either most Bitstream or LPCM options for me. It does work with 5.1 DTSMA, where the Oppo only sends the 96/24 signal.
> 
> 
> I tried 3 different HDMI cables, including the one that came with my Oppo. I tried using the HDMI4 input, just in case it was a problem of the HDMI jacks on the back of the D2V. I tried washing the disc with water. I previously encountered this problem with my PS3 before I got my Oppo, so it's not the Oppo. The last time I brought this up, you probably had not yet gotten a copy of this disc. I thought it was a firmware issue, but if it work for you it indicates there is a problem with my D2V receiving 192 signals. I hear the music with dropouts every other second and some buzzing noises.
> 
> 
> Any other suggestions? I guess this is one for Nick, but I really am not looking forward to shipping the baby back across the border for repairs...



Give Anthem a call.


I suspect they'll ask you to try a re-install of the V2.04 firmware "just in case".


But if you still can't get 192KHz from either the PS3 or the Oppo (and by the way, my copy of this disc also plays fine from the PS3), then the possibilities are (1) you got a defective copy of the disc -- it does happen, or (2) you've got a hardware problem in the D2v.


Unfortunately there's not a lot of other 192KHz content out there for you to try to determine if the problem is just your particular copy of the disc.


If you can't find another 192KHz setup to test that disc with (perhaps at your dealer), the only other thing I can suggest is that you get another copy and try that. If you call the customer support for the studio, they might be willing to swap you for a new copy. There's no guarantee it really is the disc of course, but it's a thing to try before sending the D2v back for service.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16500188
> 
> 
> Did you try PCM from the player?



Not yet..










Will do more testing later this weekend..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" V2.05 Firmware for D2v and AVM 50v Now Up on Password Protected Download Page*


New "test" firmware, V2.05, for the D2v and AVM 50v has appeared this afternoon on Anthem's password protected download page.


Rather than "Beta", this one is labeled "Release Candidate" in the release notes. Changes since the current "official" version, V2.04, now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.05 release candidate:
> 
> 
> 1. New EDID code fixes for computers/servers as HDMI sources, including AppleTV. Also helps cases where two different brand displays did not work at the same time.
> 
> 
> 2. Snap/crackle/pop fixes and various other fixes to improve stability.
> 
> 
> Known issue to be fixed: Sub level is low depending on settings and input *[UPDATE: See ETA 2, below!]*



Note that the inverse telecine stuff is no longer listed. I don't know if any of that change is still in there, and they just dropped it from the list because it still has some problems.


I also don't know any details yet regarding the "Known Issue" with sub level. In particular, I don't yet know what settings and input types might trigger this problem.


-----------------------------


A newer version of the SetupEditor utility, V2.00f, is also included in this download. And it is once again labeled as only for the D2v and AVM 50v.


As usual, "test" software may come with unpleasant surprises. So back up your settings and be prepared to roll back to "official" V2.04 firmware if necessary.


ETA: Nick tells me that the problem I had with "sparklies" when using 1080p/60/36bit video from the Oppo BDP-83 and the V2.04c "test" D2v firmware was due to a change they made in the low level signal EQ for the HDMI connections. That change helped some devices but also broke some things, like my "Deep Color" connection. Although Nick didn't specifically mention this V2.05 firmware, I believe that EQ change may have been backed out of this version. Anyway, I'll see what happens when I try it.


ETA 2: Just heard from Nick that the "Known Issue" on sub level in the V2.05 release notes is a false alarm. Upon further testing, there is no such problem expected in V2.05. Nick also tells me that I guessed right and the new inverse telecine stuff *IS* still in the V2.05 firmware, but it won't be mentioned in the release notes because Anthem wants to refine it a bit more to improve its reliability before they get people too excited.


ETA 3: The release notes for the "test" V2.05 firmware have just been updated to remove the false alarm regarding sub level. The changes since the current "official" V2.04 firmware now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.05 release candidate:
> 
> 
> 1. New EDID code fixes for computers/servers as HDMI sources, including AppleTV. Also helps cases where two different brand displays did not work at the same time.
> 
> 
> 2. Snap/crackle/pop fixes and various other fixes to improve stability.



This correction also changes the last modified date on that download, but nothing else has actually changed from the earlier V2.05 download -- just the text file containing the release notes.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Just installed 2.05 firmware with no problems. Will test inverse telecine tomorrow.

John


----------



## Milt99

Question for Bob.

you have stated that will be replacing your PS3 with the new Oppo that you are beta-testing.

This begs a questions,

Obviously you see the Oppo as a superior player to the PS3.

What advantages do you see in Blu-ray playback from the Oppo as compared to the PS3?

Since you're feeding the signal to the Anthem, isn't all of the heavy lifting being done by the D2v?

Believe me, I'm not questioning you're choice, I would just like to benefit from your experience.

Thanks.


----------



## obie_fl

Not to answer for Bob but I've had my BDP-83 for a month or so and I'd say the biggest advantage over the PS3 is operability (menu system, IR remote, ect) BD performance is pretty much the same. It is also a better digital transport for SDVD since it can do 480i. Having said that I believe Bob is actually letting the 83 do the heavy lifting on SDVDs where as I'm using Source Direct. Other advantages are its universal (SACD, DVD-A, HDCD) features and a very nice analog stage if you want to go that route. All I know is that my PS3 hasn't been hooked up since the 83 got here.


----------



## Warpdrv

Thanks obie, my 83 is on the way..... Can't wait for my first Blu-Ray Player and I know it won't let me down...


I borrowed a PS3, but the lack of IR and other issue I had with the unit.... I can't wait for the 83 to get here, but the PS3 really offers some really cool features. Appreicate your input on the comparison though, I know I won't be disapointed with the 83. I hate having redundant products when I can get by with just 1.


----------



## jayray

Tried my HD dvd player XA2 after 2.05 firmware and got loud popping sound when pausing. Will try more tonight.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Installed "test" V2.05 without problems. The major problems from "test" V2.04c -- the low bass levels and "sparklies" from the Oppo at 1080p/60/36bit video are both gone.


Some examples of audio corruption in V2.04c (that do not appear in V2.04) are also gone. These were likely related to the bad HDMI connection when using 1080p/60/36bit that also produced the "sparklies".


However I see no improvement in V2.05 over V2.04. The buzz/snap from my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi SD-DVD player is still there. The problem with losing audio channels when playing HDMI LPCM where only one channel is active at a time is still there. The problem where HDMI Bitstream of 7.1 DTS-HD MA from certain discs gets seen by the D2v as only 5.1 is still there, and actually appears to happen more often in V2.05 (workaround: Interrupting the audio stream as by Chapter Forward/Chapter back will cure this.)


V2.05 is also producing some modest bass thumps now and again upon changes in source or audio stream. I didn't have this with V2.04.


I also got two cases of LOUD corrupted audio attempting to start a disc's audio track from the PS3. This would, of course, be HDMI LPCM. I did have this rarely with V2.04, but it disturbs me that it happened twice in such a short period of testing with V2.05.


So far the only improvement I've actually found in V2.05 is that it appears to fix the bug in V2.04 where 2-channel input into PLIIx-Movie audio mode only produced output to L/R/Sub (workaround: Change audio mode to something else and back to PLIIx-Movie).


Anthem has been informed.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

Ok, got my center speaker back and redid ARC.

I am attaching the results.

Looking at the graphs I don't see that much of a difference in the center channel as compared with those measurements that I took when the center speaker was not working correctly (I posted them earlier here, Post #21598). I have not listened to the system yet; plan to do that later.

Any thoughts?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16510046
> 
> 
> Ok, got my center speaker back and redid ARC.
> 
> I am attaching the results.
> 
> Looking at the graphs I don't see that much of a difference in the center channel as compared with those measurements that I took when the center speaker was not working correctly (I posted them earlier here, Post #21598). I have not listened to the system yet; plan to do that later.
> 
> Any thoughts?



100 Hz null in FL/FR, not horrible though.


Center looks pretty bad in the high-end. Almost seems like it's got a broken tweeter, or you have double bindiing posts and they aren't connected (so no power to the tweeter).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^^What he said.


Your Center still has a problem. Raising Max EQ Frequency target will allow ARC to apply correction to it above 5KHz and that will help, but it doesn't look to me like they actually fixed anything.

--Bob


----------



## scanido

How are folks differentiating the setup between movies and music? Are you guys simply setting a lower x-over to the sub in music?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/16507166
> 
> 
> Question for Bob.
> 
> you have stated that will be replacing your PS3 with the new Oppo that you are beta-testing.
> 
> This begs a questions,
> 
> Obviously you see the Oppo as a superior player to the PS3.
> 
> What advantages do you see in Blu-ray playback from the Oppo as compared to the PS3?
> 
> Since you're feeding the signal to the Anthem, isn't all of the heavy lifting being done by the D2v?
> 
> Believe me, I'm not questioning you're choice, I would just like to benefit from your experience.
> 
> Thanks.



The main advantage is improved handling of SD content -- as for example SD extras on Blu-Ray discs. You can't use the PS3 as a "transport" for those (leaving it up to the Anthem to do all the work) because the PS3 is incapable of HDMI 480i output -- which means you are stuck with its idea of de-interlacing.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/16510241
> 
> 
> How are folks differentiating the setup between movies and music? Are you guys simply setting a lower x-over to the sub in music?



Music = 2 channel in my setup (2.0, no sub), HT = 7.1.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/16510241
> 
> 
> How are folks differentiating the setup between movies and music? Are you guys simply setting a lower x-over to the sub in music?



I advise you do *NOT* adjust the cutoffs/crossovers that ARC chooses. [Exception: If you have no sub and are, thus, running LF/RF as "full range" you may want to try lowering the "cutoff" ARC applies to LF/RF so that ARC does room correction further down for those. Lowering it all the way to 25Hz means ARC works all the way down for those. "Full range" means no bass steering -- no crossover -- but ARC will still pick a room correction "cutoff".]


Typically folks who are doing a separate Music configuration are leaving some speakers out. For example, I leave Center out of mine. Others reduce down to just LF/RF for music -- not even a sub.


Some folks also take advantage of a separate Music to account for changes in their listening room that might affect acoustics during music listening -- e.g., projector screen up when listening to music.

--Bob


----------



## thevendetta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16478942
> 
> 
> By the way, for folks looking for discs to test high bandwidth audio on the D2v, check out this new release:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DDY6US
> 
> 
> Of course the D2v doesn't accept DSD directly, so you need an SACD player that converts that to LPCM. The Oppo BDP-83, for example, sends this as 88.2KHz LPCM to the D2v
> 
> --Bob



Hey Bob...


Im sure this was covered and I apologize... But why was DSD left out of the D2v feature set? It seems weird to me that a $500 receiver would have this but a top of the line A/V processor costing several thousand dollars wouldn't... I don't get it -


thanks,


Nick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thevendetta* /forum/post/16510299
> 
> 
> Hey Bob...
> 
> 
> Im sure this was covered and I apologize... But why was DSD left out of the D2v feature set? It seems weird to me that a $500 receiver would have this but a top of the line A/V processor costing several thousand dollars wouldn't... I don't get it -
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> 
> Nick



The vast majority of AVRs that accept DSD input simply convert it to LPCM as the first step upon input. Which means there's no point.


Some very few AVRs actually have special DACs that can accept DSD and convert that directly to Analog. This is what people who tout DSD actually want.


However, doing that means you have to forego any value added audio processing as all that is done in LPCM. No bass steering. No speaker distance adjustments. And in the Anthems, no ARC.


The Anthems do not have DACs that convert DSD directly to analog, and the Anthems have substantial value added processing, such as ARC, which requires getting the data into LPCM anyway.


So since the DSD has to be converted to LPCM anyway, Anthem chose to require that conversion be done in the player.

--Bob


----------



## thevendetta

Thanks Bob - that's all i needed to know! I really appreciate your info - having someone like you to bounce stuff off of for a beginner like me really helps... Many thanks!


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16510083
> 
> 
> Center looks pretty bad in the high-end. Almost seems like it's got a broken tweeter, or you have double binding posts and they aren't connected (so no power to the tweeter).



Yes, center still looks bad. I checked the double binding posts to verify that they were connected and they were. I have placed a call to B&W tech support to see what they say. Speaker may have to go back to the factory. What a pain!!


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16510197
> 
> 
> ^^^What he said.
> 
> 
> Your Center still has a problem. Raising Max EQ Frequency target will allow ARC to apply correction to it above 5KHz and that will help, but it doesn't look to me like they actually fixed anything.
> 
> --Bob



You are right Bob, it does not look like anything was fixed. I played a disc with test signals and although the tweeter seems to be working, the highs become unnoticeable as the frequency goes up. I'm waiting to hear from B&W now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Need Help From an Oppo BDP-83 Owner Willing to Test D2v V2.05 Firmware*


I know we've got some Oppo BDP-83 owners here already. I need your help testing something with the "test" V2.05 firmware for the D2v.


Set your Oppo to explicit 1080p, HDMI 36-bit Deep Color, HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4, 1080p/24 Auto, DVD/24 OFF for video and Secondary Audio OFF, HDMI Bitstream for audio.


Note: You can use these settings in the Oppo even if your display is not 1080p, or Deep Color capable, or 1080p/24 capable. The D2v takes care of that for you.


Play a movie disc. I've been using "Kung Fu Panda" Blu-Ray which has a 5.1 TrueHD track, but I've also had this failure starting with DTS-HD MA and even starting with traditional, lossy DD5.1 from an SD-DVD.


Lower the volume on your D2v just in case you too get this failure.


Get the movie playing and confirm that the D2v is receiving the HDMI bitstream audio track as expected (press Select a few times on the D2v remote).


Now, while the movie is still playing, press the Tray Open button on the Oppo front panel to stop playback and open the tray. Do not hit Stop first, just Tray Open.


Replace the movie disc with a normal CD, any CD will do. Start the CD playing


MY RESULT: Corrupted audio from the CD. If you get this it will be obvious.


CURE: Power cycle the Oppo


If folks with the Oppo but still on V2.04 want to try this test, that will be helpful too. I'm trying to nail down if this is a problem with my specific hardware -- perhaps a cable problem -- or something specific to V2.05. I'm actually on newer Oppo Beta firmware than the public players have so that may also be the cause, but that's why I want someone with a normal, public player to try it and report back.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16510854
> 
> 
> You are right Bob, it does not look like anything was fixed. I played a disc with test signals and although the tweeter seems to be working, the highs become unnoticeable as the frequency goes up. I'm waiting to hear from B&W now.



Try this. Swap the speaker output wires at the power amp output between C and LF. Play your audio test again first in C and then in LF. If the tweeter in LF sounds good and the problem still shows up in C then you have confirmed the problem is in the C speaker and not in anything earlier in your audio chain (including the Anthem and the power amp).


If the problem moves to LF then something else is wrong -- power amp or Anthem.


If your are running two pair of speaker cable to C -- for bass and for treble -- also try swapping them at the C speaker inputs to confirm it is not a faulty treble cable causing the problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16511808
> 
> *Need Help From an Oppo BDP-83 Owner Willing to Test D2v V2.05 Firmware*
> 
> 
> I know we've got some Oppo BDP-83 owners here already. I need your help testing something with the "test" V2.05 firmware for the D2v.
> 
> 
> Set your Oppo to explicit 1080p, HDMI 36-bit Deep Color, HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4, 1080p/24 Auto, DVD/24 OFF for video and Secondary Audio OFF, HDMI Bitstream for audio.
> 
> 
> Note: You can use these settings in the Oppo even if your display is not 1080p, or Deep Color capable, or 1080p/24 capable. The D2v takes care of that for you.
> 
> 
> Play a movie disc. I've been using "Kung Fu Panda" Blu-Ray which has a 5.1 TrueHD track, but I've also had this failure starting with DTS-HD MA and even starting with traditional, lossy DD5.1 from an SD-DVD.
> 
> 
> Lower the volume on your D2v just in case you too get this failure.
> 
> 
> Get the movie playing and confirm that the D2v is receiving the HDMI bitstream audio track as expected (press Select a few times on the D2v remote).
> 
> 
> Now, while the movie is still playing, press the Tray Open button on the Oppo front panel to stop playback and open the tray. Do not hit Stop first, just Tray Open.
> 
> 
> Replace the movie disc with a normal CD, any CD will do. Start the CD playing
> 
> 
> MY RESULT: Corrupted audio from the CD. If you get this it will be obvious.
> 
> 
> CURE: Power cycle the Oppo
> 
> 
> If folks with the Oppo but still on V2.04 want to try this test, that will be helpful too. I'm trying to nail down if this is a problem with my specific hardware -- perhaps a cable problem -- or something specific to V2.05. I'm actually on newer Oppo Beta firmware than the public players have so that may also be the cause, but that's why I want someone with a normal, public player to try it and report back.
> 
> --Bob



This problem has now been confirmed using a non-Anthem receiver, so it is definitely an Oppo problem.


WORKAROUND: Use HDMI LPCM from the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Using "test" V2.05 firmware, playback of CDs into PLIIx Movie or PLIIx Music modes can still result in only 2.1 speaker output (LF/RF/Sub) instead of the expected 5.1 or 7.1 speaker output.


CURE: Change audio surround mode to anything else and then back to the one you wanted to use.


I thought this problem was fixed in "test" V2.04c. Perhaps I was mistaken. In any event, it is NOT fixed in "test" V2.05.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

tried the inverse telecine with :

a. HD DVD player at 1080i

b. PS3 at 1080i using the HITMAN BD concert

c. Arcam dvd player at 480i using several SD discs

Framelock was on AUTO. Video setup was 1080p/24 for all sources.


bottom line, inconsistent at best. Incidently, no popping on my hddvd player when using any sound format other than DTS-MA.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16512536
> 
> 
> tried the inverse telecine with :
> 
> a. HD DVD player at 1080i
> 
> b. PS3 at 1080i using the HITMAN BD concert
> 
> c. Arcam dvd player at 480i using several SD discs
> 
> Framelock was on AUTO. Video setup was 1080p/24 for all sources.
> 
> 
> bottom line, inconsistent at best. Incidently, no popping on my hddvd player when using any sound format other than DTS-MA.
> 
> John



What sort of problems were you seeing? Stuttering? Tearing? Something else?

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

picked up my D2v today to replace my AVM50 w/arc.

Just waiting for SMX screen to fire up Anthem, can't wait


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16513104
> 
> 
> picked up my D2v today to replace my AVM50 w/arc.
> 
> Just waiting for SMX screen to fire up Anthem, can't wait



Cool! When did you place your order?

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16513129
> 
> 
> Cool! When did you place your order?
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I'm one lucky guy







they had one in stock....also picked up MCA50 & MCA20.


----------



## zuesmaximus

can't wait to hear difference between all three units....

avm50v, avm50, D2v


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16513099
> 
> 
> What sort of problems were you seeing? Stuttering? Tearing? Something else?
> 
> --Bob



I saw stuttering. Initially SD movies looked good but eventually stuttering occurred.

John


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16513104
> 
> 
> picked up my D2v today to replace my AVM50 w/arc.
> 
> Just waiting for SMX screen to fire up Anthem, can't wait



That was aweful quick, how did you pull that one off since noone is getting delivery....?


----------



## Mozvz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16513350
> 
> 
> That was aweful quick, how did you pull that one off since noone is getting delivery....?



Warp,


I always follow this thread as I was a previous Anthem owner, I think Zeus said his dealer had one in stock!!







Perhaps he should play the lottery today??











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16513181
> 
> 
> Bob, I'm one lucky guy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they had one in stock....also picked up MCA50 & MCA20.


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16511839
> 
> 
> Try this. Swap the speaker output wires at the power amp output between C and LF. Play your audio test again first in C and then in LF. If the tweeter in LF sounds good and the problem still shows up in C then you have confirmed the problem is in the C speaker and not in anything earlier in your audio chain (including the Anthem and the power amp).
> 
> If the problem moves to LF then something else is wrong -- power amp or Anthem.
> 
> If your are running two pair of speaker cable to C -- for bass and for treble -- also try swapping them at the C speaker inputs to confirm it is not a faulty treble cable causing the problem.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, excellent idea. I will give that a try.


This afternoon I heard from B&W. They think that it might be that the tweeter also needs to be replaced (they only replaced the crossover).


Meanwhile... I have been listening to music without the center channel. I really like what ARC does with that set up. However, for certain types of music I may want to have the center channel active. Is there a way to have two types of ARC configurations loaded into the D2? So, for example, I may want to listen to acoustic music without the center channel and rock music with the center channel?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16513481
> 
> 
> Meanwhile... I have been listening to music without the center channel. I really like what ARC does with that set up. However, for certain types of music I may want to have the center channel active. Is there a way to have two types of ARC configurations loaded into the D2? So, for example, I may want to listen to acoustic music without the center channel and rock music with the center channel?



There are only two bass management and speaker configurations in the Anthem. So you can specify two, but only two, combos of speakers, and ARC will then make a solution for each of them.


However you can also use the surround modes to control things.


So for example, if you have ARC set up a 5.1 configuration, you can still use Stereo audio mode (with stereo content input) and only get output from LF/RF/Sub.


Or you can take the same 5.1 configuration and use PLIIx-Music with stereo sources and get output on all 5.1 speakers. But when you want to drop the Center speaker you can use the parameter in PLIIx-Music to reduce or eliminate the Center speaker (select the PLIIx-Music mode and then press the Mode key multiple times to see the parameters -- use the arrow keys to alter them). You can also vary another parameter which controls how music gets steered to the surrounds. See Section 4.8.3 in the Manual for a description of the PLIIx-Music parameters.


Use Setup > Mode Presets to specify the default audio surround mode to use for each type of audio input from each source. Set the default that matches your most common use. Then use the Mode key and Up/Down arrow as necessary while listening to select a different audio surround mode.


Normally you will set each Source Setup to use a specific one of the two speaker configurations. But keep in mind there is also the "Auto-LFE" choice for Bass Manager. If you select that, your Source Setup will use Movie configuration if there is a signal present on the LFE input. Otherwise it will use Music configuration. This is another way to make sure you get a Movie configuration (with your full set of speakers) whenever you are playing multi-channel music from that source.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

Yeah I can't believe it either, I stopped by to pick up two Anthem amps and my buddy explains to me a customer of his had order the D2v and no longer wanted it


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16514438
> 
> 
> Yeah I can't believe it either, I stopped by to pick up two Anthem amps and my buddy explains to me a customer of his had order the D2v and no longer wanted it



Nothing wrong with being in the right place at the right time...


I was just surprised..... Your a lucky dog...


Congrats....


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16514644
> 
> 
> Nothing wrong with being in the right place at the right time...
> 
> 
> I was just surprised..... Your a lucky dog...
> 
> 
> Congrats....



True! I'm very lucky dog









I didn't believe it myself until he brought out the box...

Double checked to make sure it read D2v...2.04 version

Big blue sticker that read SPECIAL ORDER










Can't wait to fire it up and hear the difference in my HT


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16514704
> 
> 
> True! I'm very lucky dog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't believe it myself until he brought out the box...
> 
> Double checked to make sure it read D2v...2.04 version
> 
> Big blue sticker that read SPECIAL ORDER
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to fire it up and hear the difference in my HT



Was it a rack mount version, or one of the narrower versions without the curved wing extensions on the sides of the front panel? Those would be the usual "special order" cases. I'm interested because I think this would be the first report here of someone taking delivery of a one of those special configurations (even though you didn't actually place the order yourself).

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16515172
> 
> 
> Was it a rack mount version, or one of the narrower versions without the curved wing extensions on the sides of the front panel? Those would be the usual "special order" cases. I'm interested because I think this would be the first report here of someone taking delivery of a one of those special configurations (even though you didn't actually place the order yourself).
> 
> --Bob



I got my D2v months ago with the rack-mount ears. When my dealer called, it was the only D2v available, and he snapped it up.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16515192
> 
> 
> I got my D2v months ago with the rack-mount ears. When my dealer called, it was the only D2v available, and he snapped it up.



Ah, OK, I forgot about yours.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

I got the Plain non rack mount no ears version, ordered on March 2nd, took delivery

May 12th.


----------



## zuesmaximus

Bob honestly I haven't open the box yet. I will after work.


Warp awesome setup!!! must sound incredible


----------



## akopperl

I have an AVM50v and just have a couple of questions:


1) When using ARC, what is more important, to keep the mic at ear height or at tweeter height? My speakers tweeters are about 4-5 inches below ear height. When I measure my speakers with ARC - there is a significant drop-off after 10K Hz. I don't know if this is typical or the result of the tweeters being below ear height.


2) I just received an Oppo BDP-83 (by the way a great universal disc player). It has the capability of outputting DVDs at 1080p/24. Is there any way to have the AVM50v automatically switch from 1080p/24 to 1080p/60? The reason I ask - is that I am not sure which DVDs are 1080p/24 capable and it is a hassle to manually switch the AVM50v video output mode. I know many current receivers can do this automatically.


Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16515923
> 
> 
> I got the Plain non rack mount no ears version, ordered on March 2nd, took delivery
> 
> May 12th.



That looks like an OVERHEAT problem waiting to HAPPEN.


Good Luck.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/16516097
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50v and just have a couple of questions:
> 
> 
> 1) When using ARC, what is more important, to keep the mic at ear height or at tweeter height? My speakers tweeters are about 4-5 inches below ear height. When I measure my speakers with ARC - there is a significant drop-off after 10K Hz. I don't know if this is typical or the result of the tweeters being below ear height.
> 
> 
> 2) I just received an Oppo BDP-83 (by the way a great universal disc player). It has the capability of outputting DVDs at 1080p/24. Is there any way to have the AVM50v automatically switch from 1080p/24 to 1080p/60? The reason I ask - is that I am not sure which DVDs are 1080p/24 capable and it is a hassle to manually switch the AVM50v video output mode. I know many current receivers can do this automatically.
> 
> 
> Thanks



ARC's job is to make things sound good to your ears. To do that, it has to listen where your ears will be.


So set the ARC mic at seated ear height.


If you have speakers mounted above or below ear height, see if you can adjust their vertical pointing. Many speakers have worse vertical dispersion of treble than their horizontal dispersion. Treble drop in a short range of frequencies can also come from things like grill mounting hardware in front of the tweeter or even the choice of grill cloth.


------------------------------------


The Oppo BDP-83's 1080p/24 Auto setting, and even the 1080p/24 ON setting will not send out 1080p/24 from Blu-Rays that are video frame rate. It will send out 1080p/60.


If you have 1080p/24 Auto set and also have DVD/24 ON set (and you are using explicit 1080p output resolution from the Oppo) then the Oppo will switch to 1080p/24 when it believes it has detected a film based DVD. It will remain stick in 1080p/24 which can be a problem if the DVD is a mix of film-based and video-based stuff (as sometimes happens in "extras" content) for example. [The alternative is a new HDMI handshake at every such change.] So I would suggest you only use DVD/24 ON in the Oppo while playing a feature film from SD-DVD.


------------------------------------


Meanwhile the AVM 50v has the Frame Lock feature (Video Source Adjust > Output for each source) which does the sort of automatic output switching you are talking about. However, that is currently disabled in the V2.04 firmware for the AVM 50v and D2v since it is about to be replaced by the "inverse telecine" feature which is currently making its debut as kind of a "work in progress" in the "test" V2.05 firmware.


The way you use the inverse telecine stuff in the V2.05 firmware is you use a video output configuration for that source that specifies 1080p/24 and you set Frame Lock to Auto. If the input is 1080p/24, or if the Anthem believes it can convert 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 then the output remains 1080p/24. Otherwise the output switches to 1080p/60. Expect the handshake to take a little longer.


For SD-DVD playback in the Oppo, that would mean you could leave DVD/24 OFF and set 480i output resolution, and the AVM 50v (V2.05) would attempt to do the conversion to 1080p/24 if it finds the input stream is film-based.


If you set DVD/24 ON in the Oppo then the Oppo is making the decision and the video sent to the AVM 50 is already 1080p/24 and will stay that way (which will still be incorrect if the content switched to video-based and the Oppo is still sending out 1080p/24).


Meanwhile for Blu-Ray movies with 1080p/24 Auto set in the Oppo, the video sent to the AVM 50v will be 1080p/24 and will stay that way in the AVM 50v. For Blu-Ray "live concerts" and other video-based content, the video sent to the AVM 50v from the Oppo will be 1080p/60, the AVM 50v will determine it is video-based, and so it will leave it at 1080p/60. So the Blu-Ray stuff is pretty straightforward.


For TV viewing, send 480i for SDTV to the AVM 50v and send 1080i for HDTV. The AVM 50v will try to determine if you are watching film-based stuff and if so convert it to 1080p/24 for output. If you are watching video-based stuff it will convert it to 1080p/60 for output.


Keep in mind that there's a lot of flaky SD film-based content out there with screwed up edits and mixed in video rate stuff (e.g., special effects). Such SD content, whether from SD-DVD or SDTV, will give any inverse telecine process problems. So be prepared to have to turn off the inverse telecine stuff for all but the cleanest film-based content. In the Oppo, that means setting DVD/24 OFF. In the AVM 50v (V2.05) that means setting Frame Lock OFF and Video Output to 1080p/60.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16516300
> 
> 
> That looks like an OVERHEAT problem waiting to HAPPEN.
> 
> 
> Good Luck.



My pioneer receiver that the D2v replaced ran hotter then the D2v does in there, its all open backed and I'm monitoring the temps, so far its cooler then what I was running before, but I already have vent fans on the ready, just need to plug them in, so I'm not concerned.


----------



## zuesmaximus

Bob, do you have an idea when the new update 2.05 will be on the public site


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16516465
> 
> 
> Bob, do you have an idea when the new update 2.05 will be on the public site



Probably sometime in the next two weeks. It think they've still got a few more things they want to fix before it goes out for general use.

--Bob


----------



## akopperl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16516312
> 
> 
> ARC's job is to make things sound good to your ears. To do that, it has to listen where your ears will be.
> 
> 
> So set the ARC mic at seated ear height.
> 
> 
> The Oppo BDP-83's 1080p/24 Auto setting, and even the 1080p/24 ON setting will not send out 1080p/24 from Blu-Rays that are video frame rate. It will send out 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> If you have 1080p/24 Auto set and also have DVD/24 ON set (and you are using explicit 1080p output resolution from the Oppo) then the Oppo will switch to 1080p/24 when it believes it has detected a film based DVD. It will remain stick in 1080p/24 which can be a problem if the DVD is a mix of film-based and video-based stuff (as sometimes happens in "extras" content) for example. [The alternative is a new HDMI handshake at every such change.] So I would suggest you only use DVD/24 ON in the Oppo while playing a feature film from SD-DVD.--Bob



Thank you for the advice.


One other question - does the AVM50v have a dynamic range setting specific to DolbyHD? I know the Oppo has an Auto setting and many receivers also provide that option in their setup for TrueHD. I would assume that the Auto setting is better than using the standard late night setting in the Anthem as we await the release of Dolby Volume.


----------



## zuesmaximus

I hope v2.05 will help

Everytime I power up AVM50v a loud popping sound occurs thru all speakers and when I power down a loud thump thru sub


----------



## Nicoff

Well, well, when it rains it pours. As I was getting ready to switch the LF and center to confirm that my center speaker was indeed bad, I decided to check the internal fuses of my center/surround amplifier. After opening it up I noticed that one of the fuse holders was loose. It turns out that it was being held by a thread. As I tried to put the fuse back, the fuse holder broke. So now I have to send the surround/center amp to the factory. B&W is going to send a tweeter to my dealer and might get that taken care of quickly.

I went ahead and redid ARC with just the front speakers and the subwoofer. It sounds fine, but I prefer a 4.1 configuration (the 2 fronts + 2 surrounds + sub). Once I have everything back and working correctly, I may prefer a 5.1. It may be a week or two before I know for sure.

Lots of rain here lately!


----------



## larryy

I'm trying to decide between an Anthem D2v2 and a Denon AVP-A1HDCI. For more background on what and why, see this post or this post . To help make the decision I would appreciate any and all input (especially since I am not going to be able to audition these units prior to purchase, darn it), but I have some specific questions that I presume can be answered straightforwardly by folks on this (massive!) thread:


* What was the cost of the upgrade from D1 to D2?

* What was the cost of the upgrade from D2 to D2v?

* Is "D2v" the same thing as "D2V2"? (Anthem's site only refers to "D2v" in terms of actual, current model numbers.)

* Does modern HDMI always include audio as well as video? (I noticed there were only 3 Toslink inputs, which I would overflow way too quickly if even one of my HDMI-capable components requires Toslink in addition to HDMI. And I set up my HD system 10 years ago, when everything was component, so I'm not intimately familiar with the behavior of HDMI yet.)

* What is the difference between a D2v and an AVM 50v? Anthem's comparison chart shows only 3 differences, total: 1) "Yes (differential circuit)" vs. "Yes" for "6 channel analog input", 2) "special order" vs. "optional handles" for "Rackmountable", and 3) "Yes" vs. "No" for "Premium faceplate finish". What value is that "differential circuit"? And are there any other internal differences? (I can live without a "premium faceplate".) What is the price difference between these two units?

* It has been said that Denon might be preferred for its features. What features? Yes, 6 component inputs vs. the Anthem's 4, but only 6 HDMI inputs vs. the Anthem's 8, and I suspect going forward that the Anthem's will be the better mix. The Denon has 4 TosLink inputs vs. the Anthem's 3, but if most audio is provided via HDMI, that's acceptable. The Denon has 12 channels, supporting 3 subwoofers, vs. the Anthem's 10 channels, but I have no intention of using more than one subwoofer. Aside from the one extra Toslink input, I haven't found any flexibility that makes me prefer the Denon over the Anthem.

* Does the Anthem output video and audio simultaneously on all outputs of equal or higher bandwidth? (I believe the Denon does.) Does it do any downconversion (so a 1080i or 1080p input signal is output over composite, say)? (The Denon does not, though it will output a 480i or 576i input signal over composite out.)


One interesting tidbit I noticed is that Denon says it does not provide its onscreen GUI over 1080p, only 1080i and lower, while Anthem clearly states that its onscreen graphics work for all resolutions (presumably including 1080p).


For context, this is going into the following system:

Being replaced: Krell HTS pre/pro (Home Theater Standard)

Krell 250a 2-channel left & right

Krell 250a/3 3-channel center & surrounds

Martin Logan reQuest left & right

Martin Logan Scenario rear surround channels

Martin Logan Logos center channel

Sunfire Signature sub-woofer

Sony VPL-VW70 (having recently replaced a lightning-damaged Sony G90)


Thanks! - larryy


----------



## zuesmaximus

toys ready to be install...

Friday the LUCKY day


----------



## Warpdrv

Larry.....


A couple of things I can help weed out for you....


The upgrade from any of the Previous series prices haven't been announced yet, and they will not happen until all orders for the newest generation ( AVM50v and D2v) Current models have been filled...


Differences between the AVM50v and the D2v information can be found in this post.... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=17883


----------



## larryy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16517268
> 
> 
> The upgrade from any of the Previous series prices haven't been announced yet, and they will not happen until all orders for the newest generation ( AVM50v and D2v) Current models have been filled...



Thanks, that's good to know. What about the D1->D2 upgrade that happened a while ago?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16517268
> 
> 
> Differences between the AVM50v and the D2v information can be found in this post.... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=17883



Excellent. That is exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Thank you!


- larryy


----------



## Nick HT

Has anyone tried using a mono to stereo cable to connect IR from the D2v (IR out) to an Oppo 83 (IR In).


I'm using the Oppo supplied cable with no success. Thanks.


----------



## larryy

Is there a way to upload and download a D2v's user settings to/from a computer? So you have a complete backup of your various tweaks? (The Denon AVP-A1HDCI supports this.)


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryy* /forum/post/16517362
> 
> 
> Thanks, that's good to know. What about the D1->D2 upgrade that happened a while ago?
> 
> - larryy




Not sure why this info would be relevant.....


If you are looking at the latest and greatest Pre-Amps, and choosing from the D2v or the Denon.... why would you take a step back and get a D1 upgraded to the D2, which neither of would compare to the D2v.


As far as I know I believe you can get either of these units, and have them upgraded from the D1 or D2 to the D2v.


Both the Anthem & Denon AVP threads are filled with tons of info, take some time to read back some pages, you can get a better feel for what each product offers.... Oh and tell your dealer that Anthem/Paradigm is a Canadian based company, not American...


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryy* /forum/post/16517152
> 
> 
> I'm trying to decide between an Anthem D2v2 and a Denon AVP-A1HDCI.



I think that is a common place to be, considering these two fine processors at the same price point. I went through the same process myself.


The reasons I went with the Anthem are:


1. Access to the full ARC feature set vs. the Audyssey model where there are locked features and a pro kit involved. I don't like any equipment where I'm locked out in some way.


2. Support. Anthem is a smaller company and thus is more transparent and accessible to customers. You can see for yourself the interaction between Anthem and its customers on this thread.


4. History of upgrades. I may or may not take advantage of it but it does add a bit of value to this piece. More likely to hold value with time even if I decide to sell it down the road.


5. Implementation of video processing is more configurable. The Anthem is a lot closer to a stand alone video processor than the Denon AVP. In fact Denon seems to be moving to ABT and away from Realta, so I think this aspect of the AVP is significantly behind the Anthem.


The biggest thing I liked about the Denon over the D2V was the dual differential DAC implementation. The other features the Denon had over the D2V were not that significant to me.


Another factor that you may want to consider is availability. The lead time for the D2V is 60+ days from date of order. Not sure what the Denon is but I'd be surprised if it was that long.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryy* /forum/post/16517416
> 
> 
> Is there a way to upload and download a D2v's user settings to/from a computer? So you have a complete backup of your various tweaks? (The Denon AVP-A1HDCI supports this.)



Yes. Settings editor comes on the CD in the box.


----------



## Flugel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16515172
> 
> 
> Was it a rack mount version, or one of the narrower versions without the curved wing extensions on the sides of the front panel? Those would be the usual "special order" cases. I'm interested because I think this would be the first report here of someone taking delivery of a one of those special configurations (even though you didn't actually place the order yourself).
> 
> --Bob



I've had one of these for a couple of months. 17" no wings version.


----------



## larryy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16517536
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryy* /forum/post/16517362
> 
> 
> Thanks, that's good to know. What about the D1->D2 upgrade that happened a while ago?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure why this info would be relevant.....
> 
> 
> If you are looking at the latest and greatest Pre-Amps, and choosing from the D2v or the Denon.... why would you take a step back and get a D1 upgraded to the D2, which neither of would compare to the D2v.
> 
> 
> As far as I know I believe you can get either of these units, and have them upgraded from the D1 or D2 to the D2v.
Click to expand...


It's relevant because if Anthem's upgrades cost a substantial fraction of the price of a new pre/pro, then their upgradability should not be as important a factor in my decision. Even if a new unit costs a bit more, you get all new components, and one might reasonably expect a completely new unit to be reliable longer than a unit with a mix of old and new components. But if the upgrade cost is a small fraction of the price of a new unit, then that upgradability is a big deal.


In response to your other comments, the thought of buying a D1 or D2 instead of a D2v never occurred to me.


Does no one know what the upgrade costs were back when D1s were being upgraded to D2s?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryy* /forum/post/16517152
> 
> 
> I'm trying to decide between an Anthem D2v2 and a Denon AVP-A1HDCI.
> 
> Thanks! - larryy



If this is what you are contemplating - why the 200 questions

about older units.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16517698
> 
> 
> I think that is a common place to be, considering these two fine processors at the same price point. I went through the same process myself.
> 
> 
> The reasons I went with the Anthem are:
> 
> 
> 1. Access to the full ARC feature set vs. the Audyssey model where there are locked features and a pro kit involved. I don't like any equipment where I'm locked out in some way.
> 
> 
> 2. Support. Anthem is a smaller company and thus is more transparent and accessible to customers. You can see for yourself the interaction between Anthem and its customers on this thread.
> 
> 
> 4. History of upgrades. I may or may not take advantage of it but it does add a bit of value to this piece. More likely to hold value with time even if I decide to sell it down the road.
> 
> 
> 5. Implementation of video processing is more configurable. The Anthem is a lot closer to a stand alone video processor than the Denon AVP. In fact Denon seems to be moving to ABT and away from Realta, so I think this aspect of the AVP is significantly behind the Anthem.
> 
> 
> The biggest thing I liked about the Denon over the D2V was the dual differential DAC implementation. The other features the Denon had over the D2V were not that significant to me.
> 
> 
> Another factor that you may want to consider is availability. The lead time for the D2V is 60+ days from date of order. Not sure what the Denon is but I'd be surprised if it was that long.



Exactly my reasons as well. The other + for the Denon is the media player, if that's of interest to you (it's not to me).


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryy* /forum/post/16518279
> 
> 
> It's relevant because if Anthem's upgrades cost a substantial fraction of the price of a new pre/pro, then their upgradability should not be as important a factor in my decision. Even if a new unit costs a bit more, you get all new components, and one might reasonably expect a completely new unit to be reliable longer than a unit with a mix of old and new components. But if the upgrade cost is a small fraction of the price of a new unit, then that upgradability is a big deal.
> 
> 
> In response to your other comments, the thought of buying a D1 or D2 instead of a D2v never occurred to me.
> 
> 
> Does no one know what the upgrade costs were back when D1s were being upgraded to D2s?



I think they've generally been in the $2-3K range for full version/model upgrades.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D1 -> D2 upgrade is still shown on the Anthem web site:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...pgrade_HW.html 


The price is US$2000. The result is a unit that is functionally equivalent to a D2, however cosmetically (front panel, labels on back panel) it still says D1.


---------------------------


The programs to upgrade an older processor to a D2v (which is the current name for what was originally referred to as a D2 v.2) or to an AVM 50v have not yet been announced. So Anthem has not committed to the details or pricing.


Best guess at this point is that the D2 -> D2v upgrades will start some time in June. AVM 50 -> AVM 50v upgrades will likely follow on later. Upgrades from other models (e.g., D1 -> D2v or AVM 30 -> AVM 50v) will also be offered, but it's not clear just when that will happen.


Price guesses for the D2 -> D2v upgrade have ranged from $1500 to $3000. At the moment, most guessers are leaning towards $3000, but we won't really know until Anthem announces the program. If you already have an ARC license for the older processor, there may be a small discount to the upgrade pricing, but we're not sure.


Other upgrades would likely not involve paying for 2 full upgrades since, for example, each upgrade involves replacing the video board as a unit. So a D1 -> D2v upgrade, whenever it becomes available, is not likely to cost $2000 + $3000. On the other hand it may very well be a bit more than the D2 -> D2v upgrade simply to cover the special case nature of the event -- i.e., there are not likely to be that many folks seeking a D1 -> D2v upgrade compared to the D2 -> D2v upgrade folks.


On the other hand, if you have previously paid for a D1 -> D2 upgrade there will almost certainly be no discount if you now go the next step and do the D2 -> D2v upgrade.


-----------------------------------------------------


If you don't already have an Anthem, buying a used, older unit with the intention of upgrading it at some point is certainly worth considering.


But add in to your thinking that any of these upgrades will involve shipping the unit to the Anthem factory in Canada. Customs delays crossing the border each way will add to the time you are without a unit. I figure it is best to plan on being without your Anthem for 6 weeks. Then you can be pleasantly surprised if it goes faster. The D1 -> D2 upgrade page on the Anthem site suggests 3 weeks. The actual time for the work to be done in the factory is about 1 week of that.


In addition, parts that are not changed out due to the upgrade do not get a new warranty. Please note that if you buy a used unit, the original Anthem warranty only transfers to the new owner if the transaction is done by an authorized Anthem dealer. Parts that ARE changed out due to the upgrade get a new warranty of the same length as the warranty for the same type of part in a new unit. This new warranty is good for the owner who purchased the upgrade. This is true regardless of how you acquired your used Anthem. NOTE: All this warranty discussion is for North America. Customers in other parts of the world are covered by local warranties that may have different terms, so be sure to check on the details.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16517414
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried using a mono to stereo cable to connect IR from the D2v (IR out) to an Oppo 83 (IR In).
> 
> 
> I'm using the Oppo supplied cable with no success. Thanks.



Keep in mind that only IR commands received via the *REAR* IR receivers in the Anthem are retransmitted out via the IR outputs of the Anthem.


See Section 2.6 of the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryy* /forum/post/16517416
> 
> 
> Is there a way to upload and download a D2v's user settings to/from a computer? So you have a complete backup of your various tweaks? (The Denon AVP-A1HDCI supports this.)



There are two menus in the D2v and they have separate backup utilities. The Setup menu can be saved/restored via a PC file using the SettingsBackup utility. The Video Source Adjust menu can be saved/restored via a PC file using the LiveVideoSettingsEditor utility.


Both of these Windows PC utility programs will be found in the Utilities folder of the ARC install kit (either on your original ARC CD, or by downloading the ARC V2.1 install kit from the Anthem web site).


The last thing you'll want to keep safe is your current ARC setup. The ARC results file is produced using the ARC application on your Windows PC. If you ever want to, you can just re-open that results file and redo the Upload to the D2v (no need to re-Measure or re-Calculate). An ARC Upload establishes certain settings in the Setup menu, but the bulk of its stuff is saved in a special memory that doesn't show up in the D2v menus.


-----------------------------------------


Note that when doing a firmware update your Setup and Video Source Adjust settings will survive just fine stashed in Saved User and/or Installer Settings (in the Setup menu).


So Save User Settings first, then Reload Factory Defaults, then do the new firmware install then Load Saved User Settings and your Setup and Video Source Adjust stuff will be back where it was. It is still wise to keep a PC copy "just in case" but odds are you won't actually have too use it to restore your D2v setup.

--Bob


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16518965
> 
> 
> Exactly my reasons as well. The other + for the Denon is the media player, if that's of interest to you (it's not to me).



I like media players, but standalones, not integrated into the processor.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryy* /forum/post/16517152
> 
> 
> * Does modern HDMI always include audio as well as video? (I noticed there were only 3 Toslink inputs, which I would overflow way too quickly if even one of my HDMI-capable components requires Toslink in addition to HDMI. And I set up my HD system 10 years ago, when everything was component, so I'm not intimately familiar with the behavior of HDMI yet.)
> 
> * What is the difference between a D2v and an AVM 50v? Anthem's comparison chart shows only 3 differences, total: 1) "Yes (differential circuit)" vs. "Yes" for "6 channel analog input", 2) "special order" vs. "optional handles" for "Rackmountable", and 3) "Yes" vs. "No" for "Premium faceplate finish". What value is that "differential circuit"? And are there any other internal differences? (I can live without a "premium faceplate".) What is the price difference between these two units?
> 
> * Does the Anthem output video and audio simultaneously on all outputs of equal or higher bandwidth? (I believe the Denon does.) Does it do any downconversion (so a 1080i or 1080p input signal is output over composite, say)? (The Denon does not, though it will output a 480i or 576i input signal over composite out.)



1) HDMI to HDMI connections support audio. If you have any older, DVI devices, be aware that DVI to HDMI (or the other way) connections do not support audio.


2) For what we think we know about differences between the AVM 50v and the D2v, see this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post15546653 


3) No processor is allowed to output copy protected HDMI input as analog video output (whether Component or otherwise). Essentially all HDMI input of interest is copy protected. Similarly, no processor is supposed to output copy protected SD-DVDs as Component video higher than 480p -- although they CAN do so as HDMI output. The Anthem up-converts video (e.g., S-video or Component to HDMI), not the other way around. In addition to processed video output, the Anthem also offers unprocessed pass through output of Composite, S-video, and Component inputs. This gets very complicated to describe and so I won't try repeating the full details found in the manual. The best way to get answers to specific questions on this is to download the PDF file for the D2v manual from this page:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...al/D2v_OM.html 


and read chapter 2 on Connections.


-------------------------------------------------


Be sure to check out the first post of this thread. In there you will find numerous links to tutorial posts found elsewhere in this thread -- what I like to call "The Good Parts" version. You'll find a lot of answers to common questions in those posts. There are quite a few such post links, particularly for ARC, but many of the linked posts are short, so it really doesn't take all that long to go through them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akopperl* /forum/post/16516523
> 
> 
> Thank you for the advice.
> 
> 
> One other question - does the AVM50v have a dynamic range setting specific to DolbyHD? I know the Oppo has an Auto setting and many receivers also provide that option in their setup for TrueHD. I would assume that the Auto setting is better than using the standard late night setting in the Anthem as we await the release of Dolby Volume.



The Anthem automatically applies Dialog Normalization as specified in Dolby Digital or Dolby TrueHD bitstream input. NOTE: If the player is decoding to HDMI LPCM or multi-channel Analog then it is the player that does this.


The other piece of this is Dynamic Range Control. Some tracks include meta-data for reducing dynamics (e.g., the peak volumes from explosions and such). In the Anthem, that meta-data, when present for bitstream input, is used when you engage the Dynamics settings (see Section 4.8.10 of the Manual).


So some of this processing is done where the bitstream gets decoded (in player or in Anthem) and some the Anthem does even for LPCM input.


For normal listening, I recommend you turn Dynamic Range Control *OFF* in the Oppo (or PS3) rather than using the factory default Auto setting. For the most part you will not hear the difference but there are some discs out there that have particularly wimpy DRC meta-data, and if you use the Auto DRC setting in the player you will miss out on LFE you really ought to hear and enjoy.


Meanwhile in the Anthem, leave Dynamics as Normal (i.e., off) for normal listening.


----------------------------------------


If you ever really do need to reduce dynamics, as for late night listening, you can engage a dynamics setting in the Anthem. If the Anthem is decoding the bitstream that's all you need to do. If the player is decoding the bitstream, then also turn on its Auto DRC setting so that any meta-data in the audio track gets used. The meta-data lets the DRC vary from scene to scene.


---------------------------------------


For the AVM 50v and D2v, the upcoming Dolby Volume feature should give an even more sophisticated way of handling this.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16519657
> 
> 
> 1) HDMI to HDMI connections support audio. If you have any older, DVI devices, be aware that DVI to HDMI (or the other way) connections do not support audio.



That's not totally true. Many DVI devices support HDCP and audio over DVI. In fact, DVI is pin-compatible with HDMI.


Further example - the DVI doctor (DVI-only) passes all HD audio, HD bitstreams, and HDCP through it, and it's only DVI.


So you can't make a generic statement like the above. Many DVI devices, particularly those released in ~2004 when HDCP was starting to become more mainstream, support everything HDMI supports.


----------



## Nick HT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16519536
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that only IR commands received via the *REAR* IR receivers in the Anthem are retransmitted out via the IR outputs of the Anthem.
> 
> 
> See Section 2.6 of the Manual.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob -- I'm trying to control the Oppo from the Rear IR receivers. D2v controls work fine from the 2nd room, but the Oppo does not. I've tested the Oppo provided cable and it's fine.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16519867
> 
> 
> That's not totally true. Many DVI devices support HDCP and audio over DVI. In fact, DVI is pin-compatible with HDMI.
> 
> 
> Further example - the DVI doctor (DVI-only) passes all HD audio, HD bitstreams, and HDCP through it, and it's only DVI.
> 
> 
> So you can't make a generic statement like the above. Many DVI devices, particularly those released in ~2004 when HDCP was starting to become more mainstream, support everything HDMI supports.



Not really.


DVI itself is a video only data format, but the audio for HDMI is not a separate signal -- it is embedded in the blanking intervals of the video signal. That means if the signal originates in an HDMI device, the audio can travel through intervening DVI cables and devices (such as DVI doctor) to another HDMI device so long as the video signal is not regenerated in the DVI device.


Technically this means a DVI source could embed audio in its DVI output (it's just bits after all), but audio is not part of the DVI handshake, so any audio sink (audio using device) that receives that signal has no way to both treat the signal properly as a DVI input (which has slightly different protocols than an HDMI input) *AND* determine the nature of the embedded audio. Again so long as the receiving device is not actually using the audio and not regenerating the video for output, this is a non-issue.


Similarly DVI doesn't support 480i, but there's a hack to do the same trick used for HDMI to pass 480i (doubling the pixels to get the bandwidth up to what 480p uses and then stripping off the duplicated pixels at the other end). Nevertheless, that's still outside of the real DVI spec and so the device at the receiving end is not really doing things properly if it accepts that -- which may lead to other problems.


In both cases, if the signal is originating in an HDMI device and ending up in an HDMI device, there is no problem so long as intervening DVI devices aren't recreating the signal between input and output.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16519992
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob -- I'm trying to control the Oppo from the Rear IR receivers. D2v controls work fine from the 2nd room, but the Oppo does not. I've tested the Oppo provided cable and it's fine.



I haven't actually tried it myself, but it should be straightforward if you are using the cable from Oppo that strips out the +5V power signal that is present on the Oppo jack.


Give both Oppo and Anthem a call. I suppose it is possible you have a faulty IR emitter jack on the Anthem. Make sure the plug is fully inserted.

--Bob


----------



## thevendetta

I asked this a while back but no one responded... Just wondering if anybody is using an XBOX360 with their D2v... I am getting the same problems I get with AppleTV over HDMI- just wondering if anybody else has the same experience. If this is a problem I hope they can fix this too - I need my games!


thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thevendetta* /forum/post/16520424
> 
> 
> I asked this a while back but no one responded... Just wondering if anybody is using an XBOX360 with their D2v... I am getting the same problems I get with AppleTV over HDMI- just wondering if anybody else has the same experience. If this is a problem I hope they can fix this too - I need my games!
> 
> 
> thanks



Send an email to Anthem tech support and ask them if you can try the "test" V2.05 firmware for the D2v to see if it fixes the problem you are having with the XBOX.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

Right now, I am using HDMI cables to connect my D2 to my DVD player, my Transporter music server, and my DirectV receiver. All audio and video signals are going through the HDMI cables.


The DVD player, transporter and Directv receiver can also output digital audio through optical or digital coaxial connections.


Questions:

Is it better to have both audio and video signals go through the HDMI cable?

Or is there any advantage in using HDMI for video only and a separate digital connection for audio?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16520330
> 
> 
> Make sure the plug is fully inserted.
> 
> --Bob



I know the above may seem obvious but it is worth repeating as I had this very "issue" when I connected my Oppo to my Xantech connector block. If I get a chance tonight I'll try moving my Oppo IR from the block directly to the Anthem.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryy* /forum/post/16518279
> 
> 
> It's relevant because if Anthem's upgrades cost a substantial fraction of the price of a new pre/pro, then their upgradability should not be as important a factor in my decision. Even if a new unit costs a bit more, you get all new components, and one might reasonably expect a completely new unit to be reliable longer than a unit with a mix of old and new components. But if the upgrade cost is a small fraction of the price of a new unit, then that upgradability is a big deal.
> 
> 
> In response to your other comments, the thought of buying a D1 or D2 instead of a D2v never occurred to me.
> 
> 
> Does no one know what the upgrade costs were back when D1s were being upgraded to D2s?



larryy, if it were me, I would buy a D2v2 new or get one from Audiogon IF and only if, you can obtain warranty service.

Modern pre-pros are too complicated and proprietary for anyone other than the factory to work on them.

IMO, Anthem charges too much for their upgrades.

Re: the D2v2, do you want\

eed the features it adds over the D2?

They are limited solely to video with the exception of internal Dolby and DTS processing and finally, true 7.1 capability which you may or may not need.

Currently D2's are selling on Audiogon for about $4k. Upgrading it will cost at least $2500 if the past upgrade is any guidance.

For me, that's not enough of a savings to give up warranty.

Maybe a D1 would be a better deal. They're much cheaper.

Buying a new D2v2 also depends on your local dealer, if you have one.

Anthem's dealer network overall sucks and has very spotty coverage geographically.

Anthem is a great company with a great product and great factory support.

BTW, there's a warrantied Denon pre-pro on Audiogon for


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/16521208
> 
> 
> .............Currently D2's are selling on Audiogon for about $4k. Upgrading it will cost at least $2500..........For me, that's not enough of a savings to give up warranty......



D2s on Audiogon are ridiculously over priced (and so is the the D2v).


I really hope people are shopping around.....


----------



## earwit

Hello,


Been a very happy D2 owner for many years...


Not sure if anyone else is having this type of problem.

I have a BDP-83 I am using with the D2 1.33/2.1.

Oppo set Secondary audio off, HDMI LPCM, have

speakers set to downmix 5.1, am using 7.1 set-up


I have an intermittent problem on some

Blue ray's with the Oppo the audio goes

From 5.1 to 2.0 on the D2 Display..

The audio for the disk is set to 5.1


A good example is the new Star Trek

Movie Series Blu- ray set. The Previews

play at 5.1 on the display, then when the movie

Starts it goes to 2.0. I check the Oppo display

it shows TRUE-HD 5.1, the D2 shows 2.0.

I tried re-setting the audio format with

no success. I can put in another random Blu-ray

which shows 5.1 and plays fine.


I have this problem with other software as well,

from time to time...


Any ideas ???/




Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16523205
> 
> 
> D2s on Audiogon are ridiculously over priced (and so is the the D2v).
> 
> 
> I really hope people are shopping around.....



Keep in mind that those are asking prices. Even the historical data just shows the asking price for sold units (as of the time when the seller marked the item as sold). So you don't actually see the final, negotiated sales price or the relationship between pricing and how long it took to sell the unit. One dealer I know that regularly uses Audiogon says that they assume the actual sales price will end up being 10% below the asking price as a matter of course.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *earwit* /forum/post/16523361
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Been a very happy D2 owner for many years...
> 
> 
> Not sure if anyone else is having this type of problem.
> 
> I have a BDP-83 I am using with the D2 1.33/2.1.
> 
> Oppo set Secondary audio off, HDMI LPCM, have
> 
> speakers set to downmix 5.1, am using 7.1 set-up
> 
> 
> I have an intermittent problem on some
> 
> Blue ray's with the Oppo the audio goes
> 
> From 5.1 to 2.0 on the D2 Display..
> 
> The audio for the disk is set to 5.1
> 
> 
> A good example is the new Star Trek
> 
> Movie Series Blu- ray set. The Previews
> 
> play at 5.1 on the display, then when the movie
> 
> Starts it goes to 2.0. I check the Oppo display
> 
> it shows TRUE-HD 5.1, the D2 shows 2.0.
> 
> I tried re-setting the audio format with
> 
> no success. I can put in another random Blu-ray
> 
> which shows 5.1 and plays fine.
> 
> 
> I have this problem with other software as well,
> 
> from time to time...
> 
> 
> Any ideas ???/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob



First, the down-mix setting in the Oppo has no effect on the HDMI output. You can just leave that at 7.1 if you wish, although changing it to 5.1 shouldn't matter. The Oppo will determine via the HDMI handshake that it can only send 5.1 to the D2, and the down-mix to 5.1 will be automatic.


When the D2 is showing incorrect 2.0, is it saying the input is PCM or Dolby Digital? If the latter, double check your HDMI LPCM output setting in the Oppo and make sure you haven't accidentally changed it back to HDMI Bitstream.


Next, check the on-screen info display for the Oppo while seeing the incorrect 2.0 audio in the D2. Look in the lower left corner at the audio track info. There's an icon just to the left of that. Normally the icon is 3 overlapping circles. If instead you see an icon that looks like a jagged waveform then the Oppo is telling you that you have engaged a feature on the disc which forces the Oppo to use the lower-quality "compatibility" audio. Typically this will be picture-in-picture commentary stuff and may very well be 2.0. With some BD-Java Blu-Ray discs, this can happen even if you have set Secondary Audio OFF in the Oppo.


If that doesn't lead to a solution, give Oppo a call. Have the bar code number handy from the Blu-Ray disc. You may have found a new Oppo bug, and if so it is likely peculiar to the specific movie giving you problems.


As a workaround, try forcing a new HDMI handshake. You can do this by changing the Oppo output resolution to something else and back (using the button on the Oppo remote), or you can switch the D2 to a different input and back.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16520908
> 
> 
> Right now, I am using HDMI cables to connect my D2 to my DVD player, my Transporter music server, and my DirectV receiver. All audio and video signals are going through the HDMI cables.
> 
> 
> The DVD player, transporter and Directv receiver can also output digital audio through optical or digital coaxial connections.
> 
> 
> Questions:
> 
> Is it better to have both audio and video signals go through the HDMI cable?
> 
> Or is there any advantage in using HDMI for video only and a separate digital connection for audio?



Normally you WANT audio via HDMI. There is no degradation of audio or video quality by putting both on the same cable (HDMI audio is embedded in the blanking intervals of the HDMI video signal, so the bits are present whether or not the audio is muted). And using HDMI audio gives you access to higher quality audio formats such as high-bandwidth multi-channel LPCM from Blu-Ray discs.


However as far as SD-DVD and SDTV or HDTV from DirecTV or other cable/satellite boxes, the bitstream audio you can get over optical or coax digital audio cable is identical to what you could get over HDMI. So HDMI is useful for cabling convenience, but it doesn't get you any better audio in those cases.


There's really only one case I know of where you might want to use HDMI video and optical/coax digital audio. And that's with some cable/satellite TV boxes that have a poor HDMI implementation which does TWO handshakes to get first video and then video + audio going over the HDMI cable. That means you see video start up and then there's another couple seconds before audio starts up when you change channels. This happens when the box has to do a new handshake such as going between SD/HD channels when you have the box set to track the video resolution rather than converting SD to HD resolution for output. The workaround is to use HDMI video and optical/coax audio -- or even Component video and optical/coax audio. Done that way, the audio will likely even start up BEFORE the video starts up.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16519512
> 
> 
> Best guess at this point is that the D2 -> D2v upgrades will start some time in June. AVM 50 -> AVM 50v upgrades will likely follow on later. Upgrades from other models (e.g., D1 -> D2v or AVM 30 -> AVM 50v) will also be offered, but it's not clear just when that will happen.




Sadly there is no confirmation that this is going to start in June.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/16528080
> 
> 
> Sadly there is no confirmation that this is going to start in June.



Well I don't have any confirmation that it ISN'T going to start in June, either.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16520297
> 
> 
> Not really.
> 
> 
> DVI itself is a video only data format, but the audio for HDMI is not a separate signal -- it is embedded in the blanking intervals of the video signal. That means if the signal originates in an HDMI device, the audio can travel through intervening DVI cables and devices (such as DVI doctor) to another HDMI device so long as the video signal is not regenerated in the DVI device.
> 
> 
> Technically this means a DVI source could embed audio in its DVI output (it's just bits after all), but audio is not part of the DVI handshake, so any audio sink (audio using device) that receives that signal has no way to both treat the signal properly as a DVI input (which has slightly different protocols than an HDMI input) *AND* determine the nature of the embedded audio. Again so long as the receiving device is not actually using the audio and not regenerating the video for output, this is a non-issue.
> 
> 
> Similarly DVI doesn't support 480i, but there's a hack to do the same trick used for HDMI to pass 480i (doubling the pixels to get the bandwidth up to what 480p uses and then stripping off the duplicated pixels at the other end). Nevertheless, that's still outside of the real DVI spec and so the device at the receiving end is not really doing things properly if it accepts that -- which may lead to other problems.
> 
> 
> In both cases, if the signal is originating in an HDMI device and ending up in an HDMI device, there is no problem so long as intervening DVI devices aren't recreating the signal between input and output.
> 
> --Bob



I have a Sony TV, with only a DVI input. I have a Tivo S3 connected to it, with only an HDMI output.


I get sound on the Sony TV from the Tivo S3. I get 480i on the Sony TV. I get HDCP.


So HDMI -> DVI = HDCP + sound + 480i (in this example, and many others)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16530012
> 
> 
> I have a Sony TV, with only a DVI input. I have a Tivo S3 connected to it, with only an HDMI output.
> 
> 
> I get sound on the Sony TV from the Tivo S3. I get 480i on the Sony TV. I get HDCP.
> 
> 
> So HDMI -> DVI = HDCP + sound + 480i (in this example, and many others)



Then the Sony is not following the DVI spec. It is telling the Tivo that the TV is an HDMI device. Since you don't have it hooked up to a real DVI source the problems this might cause are not likely to show up. In essence your Sony is using a DVI socket for an HDMI input. This is actually pretty cool because the DVI socket lets you screw down the plug....


The pinouts for HDMI are consistent with single-link DVI (but not dual-link, and certainly not the variant that includes VGA on the same cable). HDCP, which came along after DVI, was designed to work (as well as it ever works) over both DVI and HDMI. Although the original DVI chip sets didn't support HDCP, the DVI chip set designs were revved to add HDCP support almost immediately (around the time the first up-scaling SD-DVD players appeared).


The DVI protocols are designed for connecting computers to displays, so the defaults are not exactly convenient for home theater use -- Black = 0 vs. Black = 16 being the one that most commonly bites people. That was one of the things changed as part of the spec for HDMI.


I'm curious: Does the Tivo have to send RGB to this TV or is it sending YCbCr 4:4:4? A true DVI input circuit would insist on RGB. If it is accepting YCbCr 4:4:4 (which is what the Tivo would normally use as the default output on its HDMI output), then this really is an HDMI circuit in the TV that just happens to be using a DVI socket.


The other thing that would be interesting to learn, although there's no easy way for you to test it, is whether the input on this TV implements the signal EQ that was part of the early HDMI specs. This is what lets you use cables longer than about 10 feet and still get reliable 1080i video. Real DVI chip sets wouldn't have that (as the DVI handshake includes no protocol to establish the signal EQ).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" Firmware V2.05a for D2v and AVM 50v Now on Password Protected Download Page*

*PLEASE NOTE: THIS FIRMWARE IS LABELED "ALPHA"!*


"Alpha" firmware is a quick-release that may not be at the normal, tested, quality level of the typical "Beta" software usually released on this password protected download page.


The Change Notes from the current "official" V2.04 version read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.05a alpha:
> 
> 
> 1. Partial reversal of the audio DSP code to address HDMI switching noises introduced in v2.05.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.05:
> 
> 
> 1. New EDID code fixes for computers/servers as HDMI sources, including AppleTV. Also helps cases where two different brand displays did not work at the same time.
> 
> 
> 2. Snap/crackle/pop fixes and various other fixes to improve stability.



I'll be trying this version myself as I believe some of the issues it addresses are ones I reported to them, but others might want to wait a bit until there are some early success reports here.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> 2. Snap/crackle/pop fixes and various other fixes to improve stability.



Oh I like that


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16530887
> 
> *New "Test" Firmware V2.05a for D2v and AVM 50v Now on Password Protected Download Page*
> 
> *PLEASE NOTE: THIS FIRMWARE IS LABELED "ALPHA"!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be trying this version myself as I believe some of the issues it addresses are ones I reported to them, but others might want to wait a bit until there are some early success reports here.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob for keeping us up to date, and continually testing the new releases, it means alot to all us users....


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16530887
> 
> 
> I'll be trying this version myself as I believe some of the issues it addresses are ones I reported to them, but others might want to wait a bit until there are some early success reports here.
> 
> --Bob



I downloaded and installed it too. I'm hoping it will fix the "crackle and pop" sounds. We shall see!


----------



## jayray

Tried the 2.05a firmware version and it still causes popping and slight thumping from my hd dvd player when DTS-MA is bitstreamed to my D2v and pause or FF are selected. One other thing I noticed was the lack of 7.1 using PLIIx for a 5.1 source. The display showed 5.1 in and 5.1 out. I have not had this happen with any other version. Switching sources fixed it. I have not had any other popping or crackling issue with my PS3, SD player or cable box.

John


----------



## tranle

This is a question for people that use the Harmony remote and have programed a TV1 and TV2 input.


When my Harmony remote power up the D2 it sends:

- D2 power up

- D2 select TV


and when you have more than 1 TV input you always end up with the wrong TV input. As the D2 remembers the last input before shutdown so the "select TV" command will select the next TV input.


I have tried to use:

- D2 power up

- D2 select TV

- D2 select DVD

- D2 select TV

But when the TV or DVD is not yet ready to negotiate HDMI/HDCP, I end up with garbled output with either snow or "This TV does not support HDCP".


I have also tried:

- D2 power up

- D2 select TV

- D2 THX

- D2 8

- D2 9

It is a bit better but I still get HDMI handshake problem now and then.


So my question is what trick or command timing do you people use to be able to select TV1 on startup ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/16532400
> 
> 
> This is a question for people that use the Harmony remote and have programed a TV1 and TV2 input.
> 
> 
> When my Harmony remote power up the D2 it sends:
> 
> - D2 power up
> 
> - D2 select TV
> 
> 
> and when you have more than 1 TV input you always end up with the wrong TV input. As the D2 remembers the last input before shutdown so the "select TV" command will select the next TV input.
> 
> 
> I have tried to use:
> 
> - D2 power up
> 
> - D2 select TV
> 
> - D2 select DVD
> 
> - D2 select TV
> 
> But when the TV or DVD is not yet ready to negotiate HDMI/HDCP, I end up with garbled output with either snow or "This TV does not support HDCP".
> 
> 
> I have also tried:
> 
> - D2 power up
> 
> - D2 select TV
> 
> - D2 THX
> 
> - D2 8
> 
> - D2 9
> 
> It is a bit better but I still get HDMI handshake problem now and then.
> 
> 
> So my question is what trick or command timing do you people use to be able to select TV1 on startup ?



Look in Appendix A of the manual for the 3-key combos that you can use to select any of the inputs directly. For my Harmony 880, I had Harmony add each of those 3 key combos as an available input selector. So I can create an activity and tell it to use TV3 on the Anthem for example.


It took a couple tries before they got that right. The way they did it the first time the Harmony did a source selection delay after each key, which meant the Anthem timed out before the 3rd key got there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I installed "test" V2.05a firmware and have found nothing that should scare people away from testing with it.


PLIIx-Movie still has cases where it doesn't generate output to the correct set of speakers. Workaround: Select a different audio mode and then go back to PLIIx-Movie.


HDMI LPCM input still has problems in cases where only one channel is active at a time.


I still get "snap/buzz" in certain cases when using HDMI from my Pioneer DV-59avi SD-DVD player.

--Bob


----------



## Hi-Res

Hello to the Anthem Forum. I am currently deciding between purchasing an Anthem D2V or a Denon AVP-A1HDCI. My main interest is music sourced from SACD and DVD-Audio. I have Paradigm Signature S8 speakers. I have posted this question on another forum, but I am posting it here to get the opinion of Anthem aficionados.


From what I have been reading, some forum members feel that the Denon Link and the Anthem HDMI inputs are now considered to likely be equivalent in sound quality. However, the Denon AVP only has one Denon Link input. I am wondering, what the sound quality through the Denon HDMI inputs is, in comparison to the Anthem HDMI inputs.


I have two questions:

1) Is the sound from the Denon Link any better than from the HDMI input of the Anthem D2V?

2) Is the sound from the 8 Anthem HDMI inputs better than the sound from the 6 Denon AVP HDMI inputs?


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16523205
> 
> 
> D2s on Audiogon are ridiculously over priced (and so is the the D2v).
> 
> 
> I really hope people are shopping around.....



SHOPPING HELPS !!!!!! I BOUGHT MY D2 , FOR 2500.00 , CAN'T WAIT FOR THE UPGRADE . ALSO SCORED AN ANTHEM A5 , 2 PANAMAX , CABLES , PARADIGM ADP590'S ECT FOR CRUSHING PRICES . GOOD HUNTING . http://s718.photobucket.com/albums/ww181/LAMBERTRCONE/ 


BERT


----------



## shawnwalters

Tried the new firmware out last night and I still get the snap, pop, crackle sounds with 2.05a.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16534617
> 
> 
> Tried the new firmware out last night and I still get the snap, pop, crackle sounds with 2.05a.



Please send an email to Anthem tech support with the details.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16534792
> 
> 
> Please send an email to Anthem tech support with the details.
> 
> --Bob



I did, if anyone else has a unit that experiences pops and are willing to try the 2.05a, please let us know if it's any better than 2.04.


From the short time I played with it yesterday, it may be a little improved with normal viewing. For instance, it doesn't seem quite as noticeable during normal viewing, ie pausing a dvd, fast forwarding comcast etc. It does still do it, but maybe not quite as much.


However going to the setup menu for instance it does it like crazy still.


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Given I only bitstream from my HD DVD player, and cannot from my PS3, can I assume you have had no problem bitstreaming from the OPPO into the D2v?

Since I have ordered an OPPO, it would be good to know.

thanks,

John


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16509667
> 
> 
> V2.05 is also producing some modest bass thumps now and again upon changes in source or audio stream. I didn't have this with V2.04.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Do you have bass thumps when you increase the volume of the audio stream, or just when you change the source? This is an issue that I have been having for a bit. I will get a thump thump from the subwoofer when I turn up the volume. Just for a DB or two. Then it stops.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gostan* /forum/post/16535390
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Do you have bass thumps when you increase the volume of the audio stream, or just when you change the source? This is an issue that I have been having for a bit. I will get a thump thump from the subwoofer when I turn up the volume. Just for a DB or two. Then it stops.



No, I've never had a problem like that.


By the way, the bass thumps I was experiencing with "test" V2.05 appear to have gone away in "test" V2.05a.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

I installed v2.05a thinking the dumpin would go away.....

still there. On HD channels have to switch audio modes to get audio


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks who are experiencing "snaps/crackles/pops" from sources where you have the choice of either LPCM or Bitstream output of the same quality audio from the source, please try it both ways and see if it makes a difference.


The Oppo BDP-83, for example, appears to have a bug where it produces a "snap" when you track forward/back during CD playback, but only if you have the Oppo set to HDMI Bitstream output. In addition, the D2v's Select button displays report "No Signal" for the audio input, even as the audio is playing.


If you change the Oppo to HDMI LPCM output, both of these problems go away.


Now for CD playback, the HDMI Bitstream/LPCM setting should make no difference -- the audio stream over the HDMI connection should be 2.0 HDMI LPCM 44.1KHz either way. So this appears to be an Oppo bug. It is possible some other sources have similar problems.


Note that in some cases you won't be able to make this change without screwing up audio quality. For example if you have a Blu-Ray player that Bitstreams but does not decode the lossless tracks, changing to HDMI LPCM output means the player will have to switch to the lower quality "core" or "associated" lossy track on disc for just such compatibility purposes. The same would be true for the PS3 which decodes but does not Bitstream the lossless tracks -- changing to HDMI Bitstream means you get a Bitstream of the "core" or "associated" DD5.1 or DTS lossy track.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16535584
> 
> 
> I installed v2.05a thinking the dumpin would go away.....
> 
> still there. On HD channels have to switch audio modes to get audio



What cable/satellite box are you using for HD and are you using HDMI or optical for audio from it?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I only get crackling, thumping when bitstreaming DTS-MA from my HD DVD player. Core DTS, DD or TrueHD don't do this. I can't bitstream BD due to the PS3 inability to do bitstreaming. What's up with DTS-MA? I've emailed Nick but they don't seem to have an answer for this.







Changing to LPCM from the XA2 and PS3 produce none of the weird sounds. It would just be nice to have the option without the hassle.

John


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16535595
> 
> 
> What cable/satellite box are you using for HD and are you using HDMI or optical for audio from it?
> 
> --Bob



Fios Motorola QEP6200-2 HD box-hdmi out, Directv HD box-hdmi out, Samsung brand new BD player-hdmi out...

all dump issues.

When I power up & down AVM50v extreme dumpin...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16535834
> 
> 
> I only get crackling, thumping when bitstreaming DTS-MA from my HD DVD player. Core DTS, DD or TrueHD don't do this. I can't bitstream BD due to the PS3 inability to do bitstreaming. What's up with DTS-MA? I've emailed Nick but they don't seem to have an answer for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changing to LPCM from the XA2 and PS3 produce none of the weird sounds. It would just be nice to have the option without the hassle.
> 
> John



I can do HDMI Bitstream of DTS-HD MA from the Oppo just fine without crackling or thumping. So it may be something peculiar to the XA2, or perhaps your particular XA2. Have your tried Bitstreaming of DTS-HD MA from your XA2 into a different receiver just to eliminate the possibility that the XA2 is doing this on its own?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16535874
> 
> 
> Fios Motorola QEP6200-2 HD box-hdmi out, Directv HD box-hdmi out, Samsung brand new BD player-hdmi out...
> 
> all dump issues.
> 
> When I power up & down AVM50v extreme dumpin...



Do me a favor and temporarily disconnect *BOTH* the cable and satellite feed wires between the wall and your cable and satellite boxes. Then see if the problem still exists. You may have a type of "ground loop" interference and garbage coming in on the shields of the cable or satellite feed wires is the most common source of that stuff.


If disconnecting both of those makes the problem go away, then the cure is to better ground those feeds where they enter your house and to double check the quality of the cabling between there and your system.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16535984
> 
> 
> I can do HDMI Bitstream of DTS-HD MA from the Oppo just fine without crackling or thumping. So it may be something peculiar to the XA2, or perhaps your particular XA2. Have your tried Bitstreaming of DTS-HD MA from your XA2 into a different receiver just to eliminate the possibility that the XA2 is doing this on its own?
> 
> --Bob



Maybe I will take it to my dealer or Anthem and hook it up to their D2v. I don't have any receivers that can do DTS-MA bitstreaming. Worth trying.

thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

With "test" V2.05a firmware I'm experiencing audio dropouts when playing CDs from the PS3. But this only happens if the Settings > Music Settings > Audio CD Output Frequency is set to "44.1/82/176.4 KHz".


If you change that to 48KHz, CDs play fine. Which means the dropouts are not simply due to the PS3 having trouble reading the disc.


When set to the 44.1, etc., setting, the PS3 outputs 5.1 HDMI LPCM 176.4KHz to the D2v with only the LF/RF channels active. This is "normal" for the PS3.


When set to 48KHz, the PS3 outputs 2.0 HDMI LPCM 48KHz.


Anthem has been alerted.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16536042
> 
> 
> Maybe I will take it to my dealer or Anthem and hook it up to their D2v. I don't have any receivers that can do DTS-MA bitstreaming. Worth trying.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



Yeah, it's worth a shot. I'm thinking player problem here -- not D2v problem. During the early Oppo testing with the D2v, it was pretty much invariable that any DTS-HD MA bitstreaming problems were actually in the Oppo and not in the D2v.


Are you seeing this for ALL DTS-HD MA tracks, or just from certain discs?

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16536067
> 
> 
> Yeah, it's worth a shot. I'm thinking player problem here -- not D2v problem. During the early Oppo testing with the D2v, it was pretty much invariable that any DTS-HD MA bitstreaming problems were actually in the Oppo and not in the D2v.
> 
> 
> Are you seeing this for ALL DTS-HD MA tracks, or just from certain discs?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I see this with the two I tested yesterday, but will try more. I contacted Nick and he said no problem to bring it in. I am also borrowing a friend's XA2 so I can test two diff units on two diff D2v. I may have to publish my results









John


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16519512
> 
> 
> .....Price guesses for the D2 -> D2v upgrade have ranged from $1500 to $3000. At the moment, most guessers are leaning towards $3000, but we won't really know until Anthem announces the program. If you already have an ARC license for the older processor, there may be a small discount to the upgrade pricing, but we're not sure....... --Bob



I sure hope the the D2 to D2v upgrade cost is on the low side of the guesses, or I (and I would guess many others) will be very upset. I love my D2, but Anthem's big selling point of an upgrade path for previous owners needs to be affordable for what you are getting. I could understand $2k at the most, but over that I think people might start looking at other products.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We'll just have to wait and see. Keep in mind that the D2 -> D2v upgrade includes replacing the video board (the single most expensive item in the box) and the DSP board (probably the next most expensive).


Then there are those folks who've been lobbying for the upgrade to also include replacing the front panel. (The back panel already has to be replaced because of the different HDMI sockets.) That brushed metal front panel aint cheap either.


The D1 -> D2 upgrade is $2000 and mainly consists in replacing the (non-HDMI) video switching board with the HDMI video processing board. I don't know if Anthem can get any salvage value for the parts that would be taken out of the D2 as part of an upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## Nick HT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16520330
> 
> 
> I haven't actually tried it myself, but it should be straightforward if you are using the cable from Oppo that strips out the +5V power signal that is present on the Oppo jack.
> 
> 
> Give both Oppo and Anthem a call. I suppose it is possible you have a faulty IR emitter jack on the Anthem. Make sure the plug is fully inserted.
> 
> --Bob



An update on D2v to Oppo IR compatibility:


I did some further testing of the D2v (using IR flashers from each of the IR output jacks) to the Oppo front panel, which worked fine.


This would seem to point to a faullty IR input on the Oppo.


Oppo support responded by saying "In our testing we have found direct IR connections with receivers can be a little flacky versus using a IR block or distributor. We will see if one of our beta testers who has an Anthem can't perform some IR compatibility testing."


----------



## Montekay

So far no response from Nick regarding the data I sent a week and a half ago. I'm starting to get a little dismayed. I don't think he is taking it seriously. I sent him an e-mail a few days ago asking if he had looked into it yet and his short response was just, "not yet".


So now I'm confused. If for some strange twisted reason the thing was designed to behave as it does and if Nick understood the data then he should have immediately recognized that it was correct and sent me an explanation as to why they would design it to behave this way. If on the other hand it should not behave this way and again, if Nick understood the data, then he should be very interested to know why it's behaving this way. The results I was getting were pretty screwed up so again, assuming he understood the data, he should be all over it.


So the common thread here seems to be whether or not he understood the data. I tried to make it as simple and clear as possible. To me it seemed so incredibly simple it didn't need all that much explanation, just a description of the settings for each test. He is after all an engineer...isn't he?


I've just sent an e-mail to my dealer asking them to forward it to a higher authority so hopefully that will finally get something done. I'm already looking at possible replacements. I looked at the Classe SSp-800 but it apparently doesn't do video scaling so right now I'm not sure what else to consider. I'm convinced that a company like Anthem will be able to resolve this if they try so I haven't really spent all that much time researching other products. Hopefully I won't need to.


Anyone not familiar with what I'm talking about see post # 21688 and 21689


Monte


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hi-Res* /forum/post/16532785
> 
> 
> From what I have been reading, some forum members feel that the Denon Link and the Anthem HDMI inputs are now considered to likely be equivalent in sound quality. However, the Denon AVP only has one Denon Link input. I am wondering, what the sound quality through the Denon HDMI inputs is, in comparison to the Anthem HDMI inputs.
> 
> 
> I have two questions:
> 
> 1) Is the sound from the Denon Link any better than from the HDMI input of the Anthem D2V?
> 
> 2) Is the sound from the 8 Anthem HDMI inputs better than the sound from the 6 Denon AVP HDMI inputs?



1. HDMI doesn't have a sound. Neither, as far as I know, does Denon Link. Any difference is going to be in the final D/A conversion.

2. See #1.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16530317
> 
> 
> Then the Sony is not following the DVI spec. It is telling the Tivo that the TV is an HDMI device. Since you don't have it hooked up to a real DVI source the problems this might cause are not likely to show up. In essence your Sony is using a DVI socket for an HDMI input. This is actually pretty cool because the DVI socket lets you screw down the plug....
> 
> 
> The pinouts for HDMI are consistent with single-link DVI (but not dual-link, and certainly not the variant that includes VGA on the same cable). HDCP, which came along after DVI, was designed to work (as well as it ever works) over both DVI and HDMI. Although the original DVI chip sets didn't support HDCP, the DVI chip set designs were revved to add HDCP support almost immediately (around the time the first up-scaling SD-DVD players appeared).
> 
> 
> The DVI protocols are designed for connecting computers to displays, so the defaults are not exactly convenient for home theater use -- Black = 0 vs. Black = 16 being the one that most commonly bites people. That was one of the things changed as part of the spec for HDMI.
> 
> 
> I'm curious: Does the Tivo have to send RGB to this TV or is it sending YCbCr 4:4:4? A true DVI input circuit would insist on RGB. If it is accepting YCbCr 4:4:4 (which is what the Tivo would normally use as the default output on its HDMI output), then this really is an HDMI circuit in the TV that just happens to be using a DVI socket.
> 
> 
> The other thing that would be interesting to learn, although there's no easy way for you to test it, is whether the input on this TV implements the signal EQ that was part of the early HDMI specs. This is what lets you use cables longer than about 10 feet and still get reliable 1080i video. Real DVI chip sets wouldn't have that (as the DVI handshake includes no protocol to establish the signal EQ).
> 
> --Bob



No easy way for me to tell if it's RGB or 4:4:4.


I've got a 75-foot HDMI cable connected to it, and it works perfectly. I added an HDMI extended to the cable since I was gettiing some sparklies with the HTPC, but the Tivo never had any sparklies. All going through a Denon 1909, but it was direct from the Tivo for a while.


Around late 2003/early 2004, all Sony TV's (at a minimum) used this same tech - DVI with HDCP and HDMI->DVI support. This was on the cusp of HDMI being used widely. I'd be surprised if this was unique to Sony?


----------



## Montekay

Apparently customer service is secondary. Nick's response...


Monte,


We've been working on getting v2.06 for the D2v out so looking at your problem description re ARC will be after that.


Sending in the unit at this point is your option. I'll respond when there's news, it's that simple. Right now there isn't any.


Nick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16540281
> 
> 
> Around late 2003/early 2004, all Sony TV's (at a minimum) used this same tech - DVI with HDCP and HDMI->DVI support. This was on the cusp of HDMI being used widely. I'd be surprised if this was unique to Sony?



When HDMI came out the first change was adding HDCP to DVI. But that was still really DVI (no audio support for example). Some of those DVI sockets were stuck on the computer-style defaults -- for example you had to send Extended RGB to them instead of Studio RGB. Then sets started to appear with both HDMI and DVI sockets. The DVI sockets followed the DVI defaults (for computer use), but usually had a setting you could change to switch them to the home theater defaults. But still no audio. Apparently Sony decided to save on the cost of a socket and went with the DVI socket for what's actually HDMI. Meanwhile DVI itself migrated to the dual-link version in the computer world which allows the higher video resolutions used by large computer monitors such as the Apple 30" display.


I still don't know of any DVI players or cable/satellite boxes that send out audio over DVI.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Montekay,

It looks like they are pushing to get V2.06 out this week, so things should open up after that.


Your most serious problem is the loss of bass even with the High and Low frequency EQ adjustments set to 0dB, and that's not an ARC problem, right? I.e., it still measures that way even with Room EQ = OFF for that input? I suggest you focus on that one to begin.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16541349
> 
> 
> Montekay,
> 
> It looks like they are pushing to get V2.06 out this week, so things should open up after that.
> 
> 
> Your most serious problem is the loss of bass even with the High and Low frequency EQ adjustments set to 0dB, and that's not an ARC problem, right? I.e., it still measures that way even with Room EQ = OFF for that input? I suggest you focus on that one to begin.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the info Bob, Nick didn't bother mentioning a time frame in his response. Yes, the 2-ch input -15 dB bass attenuation and the single ended analog input 4 dB bass boost are the two biggest issues. I don't think any of this is caused by ARC, I just think the DSP on the D2 itself is all screwed up.


I'm stuck in the Philippines at the moment and can't continue testing. When I get back I'm going to test using the HDMI inputs. I was just googling looking for an analog to HDMI converter when it dawned on me I should be able to use my AVM20-HD to convert an analog test signal to HDMI, connect it to the D2 HDMI input, and then measure the D2 analog output. At least that way I'll have a way to know if the digital inputs are also being mishandled by the DSP.


thanks,

Monte


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16541576
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info Bob, Nick didn't bother mentioning a time frame in his response. Yes, the 2-ch input -15 dB bass attenuation and the single ended analog input 4 dB bass boost are the two biggest issues. I don't think any of this is caused by ARC, I just think the DSP on the D2 itself is all screwed up.
> 
> 
> I'm stuck in the Philippines at the moment and can't continue testing. When I get back I'm going to test using the HDMI inputs. I was just googling looking for an analog to HDMI converter when it dawned on me I should be able to use my AVM20-HD to convert an analog test signal to HDMI, connect it to the D2 HDMI input, and then measure the D2 analog output. At least that way I'll have a way to know if the digital inputs are also being mishandled by the DSP.
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Monte



The audio output on the HDMI is a stereo down-mix (2.0 LPCM 48KHz) of whatever is currently selected as "processed" audio on the Main path. Now for stereo analog input, that shouldn't make any difference, but it is a processing step in the AVM20-HD that might be a source of confusion for a test like this. I don't know of anyone who's taken a critical look at the audio that goes out on the HDMI since it is typically only used for built-in TV speakers that aren't that great anyway.


When you get back to Nick on this, make sure he understands your problem is not really an ARC problem. It looks to me like you either have a corrupted firmware install (try re-installing V1.33 if you haven't already done so), or a corrupted settings memory (try Reload Factory Defaults and then manually enter the minimal setting changes needed to confirm whether or not the problem is still there), or a hardware failure on that input.


I'm leaning towards a hardware failure for the bass problem.


So few people use those High/Low frequency EQ functions, that it wouldn't surprise me to learn there is a software bug responsible for that.


The problem with ARC "Erase" is minor of course since Room EQ = OFF still works.


-------------------------------


They are apparently staging ARC related stuff and non-ARC related stuff as separate release streams -- which is why they are deferring ARC items as they press to get V2.06 out. But the next major release for the D2v and AVM 50v will be Dolby Volume, which is all audio. And that probably means ARC and DSP updates for the other processors as well (even though they won't get the Dolby Volume feature).

--Bob


----------



## larryy

Will the D2v's video scaler support expanding a letterbox image (in a 4:3 SD signal or a 16:9 HD signal) up to a full 1920x1080?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryy* /forum/post/16542984
> 
> 
> Will the D2v's video scaler support expanding a letterbox image (in a 4:3 SD signal or a 16:9 HD signal) up to a full 1920x1080?



Yes. See the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling post links in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## larryy

One of the main reasons I am upgrading from my aging Krell HTS pre/pro is its annoying habit of dropping audio for one to several seconds following a legitimate drop to zero volume in the program material when processing digital audio (Toslink). This happens all the time with audio from a PlayStation 3 and an Xbox 360 (at least), whether playing games or Blu-Ray or HD-DVD discs, to the extent that I have had to use analog audio feeds from these units, and this is simply unacceptable. (HDMI is not an option on the Krell, nor was it on my projector until very recently.)


Has anyone had enough experience playing games or discs on these units to say for certain whether or not Toslink and HDMI connections experience these dropouts with the D2v?


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16523617
> 
> 
> Normally you WANT audio via HDMI. There is no degradation of audio or video quality by putting both on the same cable (HDMI audio is embedded in the blanking intervals of the HDMI video signal, so the bits are present whether or not the audio is muted). And using HDMI audio gives you access to higher quality audio formats such as high-bandwidth multi-channel LPCM from Blu-Ray discs.
> 
> However as far as SD-DVD and SDTV or HDTV from DirecTV or other cable/satellite boxes, the bitstream audio you can get over optical or coax digital audio cable is identical to what you could get over HDMI. So HDMI is useful for cabling convenience, but it doesn't get you any better audio in those cases.
> 
> There's really only one case I know of where you might want to use HDMI video and optical/coax digital audio. And that's with some cable/satellite TV boxes that have a poor HDMI implementation which does TWO handshakes to get first video and then video + audio going over the HDMI cable. That means you see video start up and then there's another couple seconds before audio starts up when you change channels. This happens when the box has to do a new handshake such as going between SD/HD channels when you have the box set to track the video resolution rather than converting SD to HD resolution for output. The workaround is to use HDMI video and optical/coax audio -- or even Component video and optical/coax audio. Done that way, the audio will likely even start up BEFORE the video starts up.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob. I think that I have one of those boxes (DirecTV PVR) that may take a second or so to hear the sound, but it is really not that bad. I think that I will stick with the HDMI connection for now.


On the other hand, I have had the D2 for nearly 3 weeks but have not been able to listen to its fullest because of other hardware problems. First I had issues with two of my speakers which I hope are finally resolved (I just got my center channel back from the shop for the second time--the first time they replaced the crossover; the second time they replaced the tweeter). Second, I had to send my multichannel amp (for rears and center) to the factory. It probably will not be back for another week or so.


Meanwhile, I am taking the time to do some upgrades. I ordered the Oppo BD-83 DVD player a couple of days ago and just got a notice that it was shipped yesterday.


Hopefully, in another week or two I will be able to finally enjoy the D2 to its fullest. I am not complaining as it was thanks to the D2 that I realized that I had some hardware issues.


----------



## usxplong

Well, I received my D2v yesterday. I had to drive about 245 mile (both ways) plus staying in the traffic for more than an hour. This called out of patience. Anyways, I have not hooked it up yet but will do tonight when I get home.

Bob, when I do the ARC shall I position the mic upward or towards the speakers. I know you had mentioned this some where. Any other quick tip to speed up the process is greatly appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16543781
> 
> 
> Well, I received my D2v yesterday. I had to drive about 245 mile (both ways) plus staying in the traffic for more than an hour. This called out of patience. Anyways, I have not hooked it up yet but will do tonight when I get home.
> 
> Bob, when I do the ARC shall I position the mic upward or towards the speakers. I know you had mentioned this some where. Any other quick tip to speed up the process is greatly appreciated.



Point the ARC mic straight up at each mic position. Position it at seated ear height but not up against a surface like a chair back or wall (move it a foot or so closer to the screen if necessary if the mic tip is not already above the top of the chair back). No two mic positions, whether or not sequential, should be closer than 24 inches apart. The #1 position should be at the center of your preferred seating. Subsequent positions should alternate either side of #1.


Our treasure trove of helpful tips will be found by checking out the ARC related post links found in the first post of this thread. Also be sure to read the ARC chapter in the D2v manual -- Section 3.15.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16544140
> 
> 
> Point the ARC mic straight up at each mic position. Position it at seated ear height but not up against a surface like a chair back or wall (move it a foot or so closer to the screen if necessary if the mic tip is not already above the top of the chair back). No two mic positions, whether or not sequential, should be closer than 24 inches apart. The #1 position should be at the center of your preferred seating. Subsequent positions should alternate either side of #1.
> 
> 
> Our treasure trove of helpful tips will be found by checking out the ARC related post links found in the first post of this thread. Also be sure to read the ARC chapter in the D2v manual -- Section 3.15.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


----------



## zuesmaximus

dismantled all my equipment unplug on connections, reinstalled and still getting poppin and thumpin.... Probably have to Fios to check ground outside my home...







not looking forward to that


----------



## larryy

I'm in the final throws of making a decision between the Anthem D2v and the Denon AVP-A1HDCI. I'll spare this thread any more of that deliberating, but I've placed my most recent thoughts on the matter in the thread dedicated to comparing these two units in this post . If anyone has any further feedback, I'd appreciate your posting over there.


I'd also really appreciate it if someone could answer my previous question about sound drop-outs following zero volume events in the program material from PS3 and Xbox 360 sources via HDMI and Toslink.


Thanks - larryy


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryy* /forum/post/16543086
> 
> 
> One of the main reasons I am upgrading from my aging Krell HTS pre/pro is its annoying habit of dropping audio for one to several seconds following a legitimate drop to zero volume in the program material when processing digital audio (Toslink). This happens all the time with audio from a PlayStation 3 and an Xbox 360 (at least), whether playing games or Blu-Ray or HD-DVD discs, to the extent that I have had to use analog audio feeds from these units, and this is simply unacceptable. (HDMI is not an option on the Krell, nor was it on my projector until very recently.)
> 
> 
> Has anyone had enough experience playing games or discs on these units to say for certain whether or not Toslink and HDMI connections experience these dropouts with the D2v?



I only have a PS3 with the D2 via HDMI.


NEVER Ever experienced any audio drop out.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *larryy* /forum/post/16544355
> 
> 
> I'm in the final throws of making a decision between the Anthem D2v and the Denon AVP-A1HDCI. I'll spare this thread any more of that deliberating, but I've placed my most recent thoughts on the matter in the thread dedicated to comparing these two units in this post . If anyone has any further feedback, I'd appreciate your posting over there.
> 
> 
> I'd also really appreciate it if someone could answer my previous question about sound drop-outs following zero volume events in the program material from PS3 and Xbox 360 sources via HDMI and Toslink.
> 
> 
> Thanks - larryy



Here's my comparison from a while ago, back in September of last year:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/14645561
> 
> 
> Here's my final comparison of the two, whic includes everything but listening to them side-by-side:
> 
> 
> - AVP1 has more secondary features, like music streaming and such, none of which matter to me
> 
> - AVP1 allows Ethernet firmware upgrades, but I have a HTPC with a serial connection in my rack, so not a big deal
> 
> - AVP1 has 7.1 analog input, D2v2 only has 5.1 analog input
> 
> - D2v2 ARC is superior to the Audyssey MultiEQ, and doesn't require a Pro to come out each time I want to do a deep re-eq
> 
> - D2v2 has superior customer service/support, and seems to listen to customers often and turn around firmware frequently
> 
> - D2v2 customers seem far more focused on high-end A/V type configurations, where AVP1 customers seem much more mainstream (based on board postings)
> 
> - D2v2 allows for hardware upgrades historically, even across major revisions (e.g. D1 to D2) for a fraction of the original price (25-40%)
> 
> - D2v2's VP is superior to the AVP1
> 
> - D2v2 has 8 HDMI inputs
> 
> - D2v2 supports HDMI 1.3c (much more mature)
> 
> 
> I think just the customer service/support, ARC, and the VP make it hard not to pick the D2v2. I'm thinking they are similar to each other in sound quality alone though (un-eq'd).



Scroll down a few posts to see feedback on this list.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16543237
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob. I think that I have one of those boxes (DirecTV PVR) that may take a second or so to hear the sound, but it is really not that bad. I think that I will stick with the HDMI connection for now.
> 
> 
> On the other hand, I have had the D2 for nearly 3 weeks but have not been able to listen to its fullest because of other hardware problems. First I had issues with two of my speakers which I hope are finally resolved (I just got my center channel back from the shop for the second time--the first time they replaced the crossover; the second time they replaced the tweeter). Second, I had to send my multichannel amp (for rears and center) to the factory. It probably will not be back for another week or so.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, I am taking the time to do some upgrades. I ordered the Oppo BD-83 DVD player a couple of days ago and just got a notice that it was shipped yesterday.
> 
> 
> Hopefully, in another week or two I will be able to finally enjoy the D2 to its fullest. I am not complaining as it was thanks to the D2 that I realized that I had some hardware issues.



Nicoff,

If I may I'd like to add my $.02.

I have the D2 , BDP-83 combo and I found one more reason to use an audio connection other than hdmi in certain cases.

I have a fairly large dvd collection and some of them are encoded with dts-es or dolby-ex audio. The Oppo, when set to send out lpcm thru hdmi, does not decode the 6.1 channel audio (-es or -ex). It will send out the 'core' 5.1 track. I may be deluding myself, but I prefered the dts-es over the dd5.1 when I a/b'd the audio tracks on dvd's like 'Gladiator' and 'LOTR's' among other dvd's.

For bluray I set up dvd1 in the D2 with the Oppo sending everything decoded to lpcm. For dvd's I have D2 dvd2 set up with the Oppo sending video via hdmi and audio via coax bitsteamed at 96khz to the D2. That way I'm able to enjoy the dts-es or dolby-ex tracks on the dvd's.

If getting the dts-es or dd-ex audio are important to you then it only takes one more cable connection (coax or toslink) from the bdp-83 to the D2.

I had a good coax cable that wasn't being used so there was no cost. Just the time used in the D2 and Oppo set-up menus.

Tom


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16542150
> 
> 
> The audio output on the HDMI is a stereo down-mix (2.0 LPCM 48KHz) of whatever is currently selected as "processed" audio on the Main path. Now for stereo analog input, that shouldn't make any difference, but it is a processing step in the AVM20-HD that might be a source of confusion for a test like this. I don't know of anyone who's taken a critical look at the audio that goes out on the HDMI since it is typically only used for built-in TV speakers that aren't that great anyway.
> 
> 
> When you get back to Nick on this, make sure he understands your problem is not really an ARC problem. It looks to me like you either have a corrupted firmware install (try re-installing V1.33 if you haven't already done so), or a corrupted settings memory (try Reload Factory Defaults and then manually enter the minimal setting changes needed to confirm whether or not the problem is still there), or a hardware failure on that input.
> 
> 
> I'm leaning towards a hardware failure for the bass problem.
> 
> 
> So few people use those High/Low frequency EQ functions, that it wouldn't surprise me to learn there is a software bug responsible for that.
> 
> 
> The problem with ARC "Erase" is minor of course since Room EQ = OFF still works.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------
> 
> 
> They are apparently staging ARC related stuff and non-ARC related stuff as separate release streams -- which is why they are deferring ARC items as they press to get V2.06 out. But the next major release for the D2v and AVM 50v will be Dolby Volume, which is all audio. And that probably means ARC and DSP updates for the other processors as well (even though they won't get the Dolby Volume feature).
> 
> --Bob



Well not really because with Room EQ off it still leaves in that 4 dB bass boost. So to use the single ended analog inputs I have to use AnlgDir. I have a friend that really likes using the 7-ch stereo mode on his Denon...if for some reason I wanted to use that on any of the analog single ended sources I would have to use AnlgDSP and I would be forced to accept a 4 dB bass boost. I would have to use the 2-ch balanced inputs which do work correctly with only a fraction of a dB of ripple at low frequency when set to AnlgDSP. So, yeah for all practical purposes I can use it in the mean time since I normally use the balanced inputs anyway. I do like having multiple players set up however and I can't use the balanced inputs for all of them so I have to accept different frequency response depending on which player is used or be forced to use just one for now.


Yeah I wasn't sure about the performance of the HDMI audio output on the AVM20HD but all I need is for it to give me something that the HDMI input on the D2 should convert right back to analog with no changes to the frequency response. I really need another HDMI to analog conversion to use as a reference however to verify the signal before comparing it to the results of the D2.


Contacting my dealer has prompted an additional response from Nick but unfortunately his response proved beyond a shadow of a doubt that he never read the detailed descriptions of the problems.


Monte


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I tried two more HD DVDs bitstreaming DTS-MA and they both gave the popping sound when paused and restarted as well as when FF. However, now the TrueHD also does the same thing. DD and DTS core do not. This didn't happen with 2.04. Going in to see Nick on Tues. and try both mine and a friend's XA2s on their D2v. It is starting to look like a software issue but time will tell.

John


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16545105
> 
> 
> Nicoff,
> 
> If I may I'd like to add my $.02.
> 
> I have the D2 , BDP-83 combo and I found one more reason to us a different audio connection than hdmi in certain cases.
> 
> I have a fairly large dvd collection and some of them are encoded with dts-es or dolby-ex audio. The Oppo when set to send out lpcm thru hdmi does not decode the 6.1 channel audio (-es or -ex). It will send out the 'core' 5.1 track. I may be deluding myself, but I prefered the dts-es over the dd5.1 when I a/b'd the audio tracks on dvd's like 'Gladiator' and 'LOTR's' among other dvd's.
> 
> For bluray I set up dvd1 in the D2 with the Oppo sending everything decoded to lpcm. For dvd's I have D2 dvd2 set up with the Oppo sending video via hdmi and audio via coax bitsteamed at 96khz to the D2. That way I'm able to enjoy the dts-es or dolby-ex tracks on the dvd's.
> 
> If getting the dts-es or dd-ex audio are important to you then it only takes one more cable connection (coax or toslink) from the bdp-83 to the D2.
> 
> I had a good coax cable that wasn't being used so there was no cost. Just the time used in the D2 and Oppo set-up menus.
> 
> Tom



Thank you Tom! I also have a couple of digital coax and optical cables around. I will hook them up and give that a try that as well!


Thanks!!


----------



## dschamis

Has anyone tried to connect a new Apple MacbookPro to the D2 via a MiniDisplayPort => HDMI adapter? I have and I get nothing but a blue screen. The computer seems to think that something is going on but nothing shows up.


I have been connecting an old MacbookPro to the D2 via a DVI => HDMI adapter, which worked great.


Thanks,


David


----------



## schlitzie

The mini display port maxes at 1280 X 800 output. You probably need the dual link DVI adapter ($100) and then adapt again from DVI to HDMI. Not too elegant a connection, and no guarantee it will work.


The display port on the new MBP is crap and not up to the usual Mac standards. Very disappointing


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *schlitzie* /forum/post/16548382
> 
> 
> The mini display port maxes at 1280 X 800 output. You probably need the dual link DVI adapter ($100) and then adapt again from DVI to HDMI. Not too elegant a connection, and no guarantee it will work.
> 
> 
> The display port on the new MBP is crap and not up to the usual Mac standards. Very disappointing



I don't think that's right - I am currently feeding my Apple LED monitor 1920x1200 via the mini display port.


----------



## schlitzie

Interesting. Don't want to take this thread off on another tangent, but maybe Apple hardware works with it - my 30" Dell does not. Confirmed with Level II mac support.


Anyway sorry for the brief interruption to the Anthem discussion everybody


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The new D2v firmware, currently in test, is supposed to include fixes for connecting AppleTV that ought to help other computer connections as well. My understanding is that if that fix survives testing it will also be rolled into the next bug fix release for the original D2 (expected to be V1.34). No ETA yet on that D2 release, but the D2v release (expected to be V2.06) may very well go official over the next few days.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" D2v / AVM 50v Firmware V2.06 Now on Password Protected Download Page!*


And just that fast, the V2.06 version is now up on the password protected download page. The change notes from the current "official" version V2.04, now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.06:
> 
> 
> 1. Improved HDMI connectivity with media servers, including AppleTV, as well as displays when two displays are connected and they are a different brand.
> 
> 
> 2. Various fixes to improve stability.



I don't know if anything is actually different in "test" V2.06 compared to the prior "test" version, V2.05a.


I suspect V2.06 will become "official" as early as this weekend.


One interesting item is that the "test" version of the new SetupEditor utility is no longer present in this download kit. The V2.05a download kit included version V2.00f of SetupEditor (for use with D2v and AVM 50v only).

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Please HELP!!!

I hooked up my D2v yesterday and have couple of issues.

1. When I did the speaker calibration, I get no sound from Sub. The Sub cable is connected to the Sub1.

2. When I had my Sunfire pre/pro, the amp used to make a tick sound everytime I turned the unit on and off. But the D2v's trigger does not do anyting or at least the amp does not make that tick sound anymore. But everytime I turn the D2v on and off I hear a click from the speakers. Does that mean that the amp is going on and off?

I appreciate any help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" ARC V2.2 now up on Password Protected Download Page!*


"Test" ARC V2.2 is also now up on Anthem's password protected download page. From the change notes it looks like it is identical to the prior "test" version, ARC V2.1.1 which had only a very minor change in it to fix a problem for Vista users trying to use the Anthem mic both for ARC and for PBK on the same computer. Also, it looks like the new SetupEditor utility has been moved into the Utilities folder of this download kit with the other utilitites.


The change notes since the last "official" ARC, V2.1, now read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.2:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for Vista where ARC fails to find a valid microphone when PBK (Paradigm Bass Kit) and ARC are on the same computer.
> 
> 
> The Utilities folder also contains a Setup Editor for the AVM 50v and D2v.



SetupEditor is now version V2.01, and is still marked as being only for use with the D2v and AVM 50v. The text file accompanying these utilities has also been updated. It now reads:



> Quote:
> LIVE VIDEO SETTINGS EDITOR
> 
> 
> This application allows you to control the video processor from a computer. Most changes occur in the processor at the same time that settings on the computer are changed. Gamma correction is not live.
> 
> 
> It also allows video processor settings to be saved to and loaded from a computer (.alv extension).
> 
> 
> 
> SETUP EDITOR
> 
> 
> This application allows you to control the Setup Menu from a PC.
> 
> 
> It also allows video processor settings to be saved to and loaded from a PC (.a20 extension).
> 
> 
> 
> Editing is not available for v1.33 AVM 40, AVM 50, D1, and D2 although the Settings Backup utility allows saving and uploading of menu configurations.
> 
> 
> 
> Passwords and menu lockouts are not saved. This ensures setup menu access if you are loading a settings file to another processor. If you are loading a file to a processor that already has passwords and lockouts in effect, they will remain in effect.



I suspect these are final clean-up changes in preparation for the ARC V2.2 download kit becoming "official" this weekend.


Note: I don't know of any significant changes in this ARC version over V2.1, so I don't think there's any rush to change to V2.2. But if you are going to do new Measurements anyway, you should probably switch to V2.2 prior to doing that. However the file size for the ARC V2.2 application is bigger than the file size for the ARC V2.1.1 application -- more than would make sense for just a version number change. So I'll see if I can find out from Nick whether any other bug fixes got snuck in there.


The D2v and AVM 50v Manuals included in the ARC V2.2 download kit are the same May 15 versions previously included.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16548849
> 
> 
> Please HELP!!!
> 
> I hooked up my D2v yesterday and have couple of issues.
> 
> 1. When I did the speaker calibration, I get no sound from Sub. The Sub cable is connected to the Sub1.
> 
> 2. When I had my Sunfire pre/pro, the amp used to make a tick sound everytime I turned the unit on and off. But the D2v's trigger does not do anyting or at least the amp does not make that tick sound anymore. But everytime I turn the D2v on and off I hear a click from the speakers. Does that mean that the amp is going on and off?
> 
> I appreciate any help.



This is probably something simple.


First double check your wiring. It is very easy to use the wrong jack by mistake. At the sub end, make sure you are using a line level input (as from a pre-amp) and not a high level input (as from a power amp).


Next, temporarily set your Subwoofer to be on all the time (not controlled by a Trigger). Then see if you get bass test tones using the Setup > Level Calibration menu in the D2v. If you can, then you know it is just something wrong in your Trigger setup.


For Triggers, again make sure you are using the correct socket on the Anthem. It is easy to use the wrong one. Double check the Connections section in the Manual to make sure. Make sure the mini-plug is fully inserted in the jack.


In Setup for Triggers you must ENABLE All Triggers as well as setting the "*" in the correct table for the Trigger you want to use to turn on the sub. Keep in mind that Trigger changes don't take effect until you exit the Setup menu. You can use an inexpensive DC voltmeter to make sure 12 volts is actually appearing on your Trigger cable -- i.e., that you've set things up properly in the D2v.


Some devices that use a 12 volt trigger are particular about the polarity of that trigger. If that's the case then you can fix it by swapping the 2 wires in the trigger cable.


The output from the D2v has +12V on the "tip" and Ground on the "sleeve" of the mono-mini jack.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16549067
> 
> 
> This is probably something simple.
> 
> 
> First double check your wiring. It is very easy to use the wrong jack by mistake. At the sub end, make sure you are using a line level input (as from a pre-amp) and not a high level input (as from a power amp).
> 
> 
> Next, temporarily set your Subwoofer to be on all the time (not controlled by a Trigger). Then see if you get bass test tones using the Setup > Level Calibration menu in the D2v. If you can, then you know it is just something wrong in your Trigger setup.
> 
> 
> For Triggers, again make sure you are using the correct socket on the Anthem. It is easy to use the wrong one. Double check the Connections section in the Manual to make sure. Make sure the mini-plug is fully inserted in the jack.
> 
> 
> In Setup for Triggers you must ENABLE All Triggers as well as setting the "*" in the correct table for the Trigger you want to use to turn on the sub. Keep in mind that Trigger changes don't take effect until you exit the Setup menu. You can use an inexpensive DC voltmeter to make sure 12 volts is actually appearing on your Trigger cable -- i.e., that you've set things up properly in the D2v.
> 
> 
> Some devices that use a 12 volt trigger are particular about the polarity of that trigger. If that's the case then you can fix it by swapping the 2 wires in the trigger cable.
> 
> 
> The output from the D2v has +12V on the "tip" and Ground on the "sleeve" of the mono-mini jack.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.

I had a stereo 3.5 mm mini plug that I cut one end and connected the wires (red and black) to the amp. I should get a mono plug. But will the mono plug have red and black wires so I can connect them with the red and black wires from the sub? and also how can I turn on the sub trigger? I couldn't find that in the manual. My sub is set at auto which will go on as soon as detects a signal. Thanks Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16549211
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> I had a stereo 3.5 mm mini plug that I cut one end and connected the wires (red and black) to the amp. I should get a mono plug. But will the mono plug have red and black wires so I can connect them with the red and black wires from the sub? and also how can I turn on the sub trigger? I couldn't find that in the manual. My sub is set at auto which will go on as soon as detects a signal. Thanks Bob.



A stereo plug won't make proper contact in the Trigger mono-jack on the D2v. So yes you need a mono plug.


The stereo plug has three wires in it. The mono plug has two. So you'll still have the two wires you need to connect to the sub.


For now, try setting your sub to be on all the time -- not auto (audio signal detection) or triggered (12 volt trigger detection). That way you can continue with your D2v setup.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16549364
> 
> 
> A stereo plug won't make proper contact in the Trigger mono-jack on the D2v. So yes you need a mono plug.
> 
> 
> The stereo plug has three wires in it. The mono plug has two. So you'll still have the two wires you need to connect to the sub.
> 
> 
> For now, try setting your sub to be on all the time -- not auto (audio signal detection) or triggered (12 volt trigger detection). That way you can continue with your D2v setup.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Will try that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just got an email back from Nick.


There are no additional changes in D2v / AVM 50v "test" firmware V2.06 over the prior "test" version, V2.05a. They just changed the version number for production release. I'm still assuming V2.06 will go "official" this weekend -- perhaps even this evening.


There are no significant changes in ARC V2.2 over the current "official" ARC V2.1. It just has the bug fix for the mic conflict for Vista users with both ARC and PBK software installed on the same Vista Windows computer.


So if you are already using ARC V2.1, there's no point in rushing to switch to ARC V2.2 when it becomes "official" -- probably also this weekend. However, the next time you plan on doing a Measurement pass anyway, install the ARC V2.2 application first just so you have the latest stuff on your Windows computer.


You can use ARC V2.2 to Upload results you produced with ARC V2.1. You certainly don't need to re-Measure, and I suspect you won't even need to re-Calculate (I'll probably be trying this soon myself just to see).

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16549835
> 
> 
> I just got an email back from Nick.
> 
> 
> There are no additional changes in D2v / AVM 50v "test" firmware V2.06 over the prior "test" version, V2.05a. They just changed the version number for production release. I'm still assuming V2.06 will go "official" this weekend -- perhaps even this evening.



So if I installed v2.05a a few days ago, there's nothing new in the official v2.06 version?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16549919
> 
> 
> So if I installed v2.05a a few days ago, there's nothing new in the official v2.06 version?



Well V2.06 isn't quite "official" yet -- it's still not on the public download page.


But yes, if you already have V2.05a installed there's no reason to install V2.06 except to see the shiny new version number, and pride of ownership of having the real, "official" software installed.


Actually, this can become important if you run into a problem some months from now and can no longer remember whether there was any difference between V2.05a and V2.06.


--------------------------------------------------


Personally, I'm not going to install V2.06 as a "test" version -- I'll stick with the V2.05a I already have.


But when V2.06 goes "official" I definitely WILL install it just so I can tell people that yes I'm running the same software they should be running when we discuss problems.


Since V2.06 is likely to go "official" real soon now, it amounts to the same thing though. It'll be in my D2v soon.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters

Ok thanks







I will install too when it's available.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick also tells me that the V1.34 bug fix release for the original D2 and AVM 50 is being worked on. They want to incorporate as much of the HDMI improvements in V2.06 as they can (within the limitations of the older HDMI chip set). That means they've got a lot of testing to do.


I suspect test versions will be showing up soon on the password protected download page. I won't be able to try those myself of course, but I know we've got quite a few D2 and AVM 50 owners posting here who will jump at the chance.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16550279
> 
> 
> Nick also tells me that the V1.34 bug fix release for the original D2 and AVM 50 is being worked on. They want to incorporate as much of the HDMI improvements in V2.06 as they can (within the limitations of the older HDMI chip set). That means they've got a lot of testing to do.
> 
> 
> I suspect test versions will be showing up soon on the password protected download page. I won't be able to try those myself of course, but I know we've got quite a few D2 and AVM 50 owners posting here who will jump at the chance.
> 
> --Bob



MY D2 is Perfect







- I'm not rocking my Boat










GO AHEAD -- call me *CHICKEN*


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16550408
> 
> 
> my d2 is perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - i'm not rocking my boat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> go ahead -- call me *chicken*


*Chicken!*


----------



## ehlarson

And the long awaited event has occurred!


My dealer is in possession of the D2V I ordered March 24, 2009.


Huzzah! Huzzah! Huzzah!


The weekend cannot possibly come fast enough.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16550520
> 
> *Chicken!*



Thanks MIKE - I NEEDED THAT










It makes me feel good today


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16550540
> 
> 
> And the long awaited event has occurred!
> 
> 
> My dealer is in possession of the D2V I ordered March 24, 2009.
> 
> 
> Huzzah! Huzzah! Huzzah!
> 
> 
> The weekend cannot possibly come fast enough.



I hope you can pick it up before he closes...










Congrats - My wait was exactly the same number of days, but certainly worth my friend...


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16550540
> 
> 
> And the long awaited event has occurred!
> 
> 
> My dealer is in possession of the D2V I ordered March 24, 2009.
> 
> 
> Huzzah! Huzzah! Huzzah!
> 
> 
> The weekend cannot possibly come fast enough.



Congrats! I ordered April 14th or so, im gussing another 2 - 3 weeks...I'm wishing i hadnt sold my D2 until my D2v arrived, but on the other hand im getting other projects done while i wait.


----------



## slots1

when oh when will this happen. I thought June at the latest, but....they seem to be so behind delivering new D2v's.


I started emailing back in late January.....


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16549835
> 
> 
> I just got an email back from Nick.
> 
> 
> There are no additional changes in D2v / AVM 50v "test" firmware V2.06 over the prior "test" version, V2.05a. They just changed the version number for production release. I'm still assuming V2.06 will go "official" this weekend -- perhaps even this evening.
> 
> 
> There are no significant changes in ARC V2.2 over the current "official" ARC V2.1. It just has the bug fix for the mic conflict for Vista users with both ARC and PBK software installed on the same Vista Windows computer.
> 
> 
> So if you are already using ARC V2.1, there's no point in rushing to switch to ARC V2.2 when it becomes "official" -- probably also this weekend. However, the next time you plan on doing a Measurement pass anyway, install the ARC V2.2 application first just so you have the latest stuff on your Windows computer.
> 
> 
> You can use ARC V2.2 to Upload results you produced with ARC V2.1. You certainly don't need to re-Measure, and I suspect you won't even need to re-Calculate (I'll probably be trying this soon myself just to see).
> 
> --Bob



I'm not clear on 2.04 -> 2.06 changes? It sounds like none of the bugs are fixed (that I don't see on my system anyway), and none of the new feature (e.g. reverse telecine) are officially in there either.


So what's the point of the release? What's new/fixed/changed?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16550941
> 
> 
> I'm not clear on 2.04 -> 2.06 changes? It sounds like none of the bugs are fixed (that I don't see on my system anyway), and none of the new feature (e.g. reverse telecine) are officially in there either.
> 
> 
> So what's the point of the release? What's new/fixed/changed?



Since they didn't break down the list of fixes, it's hard to know. Clearly they did some stuff on HDMI , and so far I've spotted one fix that's important to me as regards stereo movie input to PLIIx Movie audio mode.


We'll just have to wait for more reports to come in as people try it. At the worst, save a copy of the V2.04 installer and you can revert back.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Bob. Thanks for your help. I fixed the trigger and the sub problems.

But now I have another problem. When I turn the speaker calibration on after a few seconds I get hiss sound from the center speaker only. I use the same cable quality for all speakers. Is there something wrong with the unit or the speaker or shall I change some settings? Thanks a lot as usual.


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16550408
> 
> 
> MY D2 is Perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I'm not rocking my Boat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GO AHEAD -- call me *CHICKEN*



Actually I wasn't aware of any particular issues with the D2 either other than these frequency response problems I've been complaining about. Other than that it's pretty stable. If I wanted to be overly picky I might complain that sometimes when backing up in menu's that it jumps a screen...maybe a longer delay between IR commands?


Ok I did just think of one thing but it may not be the D2 causing it. When I turn on my JVC projector while the D2 is playing another source like a CD the music will briefly stop while the projector is booting up. This is obviously something going on in the HDMI connections but I don't assume right away it's the D2.


Nick is working on solving my other issues so hopefully that mystery is solved soon. Still, I really do wish another D2 owner out there could measure theirs, I'm just dying to see if anyone else sees the same thing. The Arta software http://www.fesb.hr/~mateljan/arta/index.htm can be downloaded and used non commercially for free and even the professional license is dirt cheap. It's extraordinarily simple and intuitive to use...well at least it seems that way if you used MLSSA for a dozen+ years prior but I really think anyone could figure out in minutes how to make a simple transfer function measurement of a device. Come on, it's fun










mk


----------



## thevendetta

Anybody know why my surround modes are only available about 40% of the time? It seems weird... The availability changes even if I stay on the same channel. Is there something wrong with my settings or is this a bug in my unit?


Thanks,

Nick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thevendetta* /forum/post/16551823
> 
> 
> Anybody know why my surround modes are only available about 40% of the time? It seems weird... The availability changes even if I stay on the same channel. Is there something wrong with my settings or is this a bug in my unit?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Nick



The available audio modes depend on:


1) The type of audio input at the moment

2) The number of speakers you have, and

3) Whether or not THX post processing is turned on.


So for example, if you have a 5.1 speaker system and the current audio input is 5.1 there will be no audio modes available. That's because the audio modes for 5.1 input have to do with different ways of creating 7.1 speaker output from that input and since you don't have 7.1 speakers there's no work for those modes to do.


Another example is that if you have THX post processing turned on the Mono-Academy mode won't be available because both Mono-Academy and THX Equalization provide a specific reduction in treble.


Part of the confusion here is that you can specify default audio modes in Setup > Mode Presents that don't actually apply to your setup -- such as asking for PLIIx-Movie to be applied to 5.1 input when you only have a 5.1 speaker setup configured.


The tables in the Manual lay out most of this stuff pretty well. You just have to add the piece of info that modes won't be shown if there's no work for them to do (such as the modes for creating 7.1 speaker output when you only have 5.1 speakers).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16551531
> 
> 
> Bob. Thanks for your help. I fixed the trigger and the sub problems.
> 
> But now I have another problem. When I turn the speaker calibration on after a few seconds I get hiss sound from the center speaker only. I use the same cable quality for all speakers. Is there something wrong with the unit or the speaker or shall I change some settings? Thanks a lot as usual.



Temporarily swap the speaker outputs for C and LF on the back of the Anthem. Then try the speaker calibration for both.


If the problem stays in C then it is a problem happening AFTER the Anthem -- cables, amps or speaker.


If the problem moves to LF then it is a problem happening in or before the Anthem.


Hiss sounds can result from certain types of Radio Frequency interference. They are commonly associated with use of light dimmers. Check the Hum FAQ sticky thread in the Audio Theory forum here to see if any of the suggestions in there appear relevant.


Isolating this to decide if it is a problem in the Anthem is a bit of a nuisance.


For example, the first step is to disconnect EVERYTHING from the back of the Anthem except for the power cord and the single speaker output cable to the C speaker. [This is after you've done the test above to eliminate the possibility that the problem is coming from something after the Anthem.]


Then bring up that Calibration test tone (using the Front Panel) and see if the hiss is still there. If it is gone, hook things back up until it reappears.


If the hiss is still in there, then you should probably give Anthem tech support a call. It may be nothing more than that you need to re-install the firmware, but you should give them a chance to walk this through with you.


If it turns out it really is a hardware problem, they'll sort things out pretty quickly for you.

--Bob


----------



## thevendetta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16551851
> 
> 
> The available audio modes depend on:
> 
> 
> 1) The type of audio input at the moment
> 
> 2) The number of speakers you have, and
> 
> 3) Whether or not THX post processing is turned on.
> 
> 
> So for example, if you have a 5.1 speaker system and the current audio input is 5.1 there will be no audio modes available. That's because the audio modes for 5.1 input have to do with different ways of creating 7.1 speaker output from that input and since you don't have 7.1 speakers there's no work for those modes to do.
> 
> 
> Another example is that if you have THX post processing turned on the Mono-Academy mode won't be available because both Mono-Academy and THX Equalization provide a specific reduction in treble.
> 
> 
> Part of the confusion here is that you can specify default audio modes in Setup > Mode Presents that don't actually apply to your setup -- such as asking for PLIIx-Movie to be applied to 5.1 input when you only have a 5.1 speaker setup configured.
> 
> 
> The tables in the Manual lay out most of this stuff pretty well. You just have to add the piece of info that modes won't be shown if there's no work for them to do (such as the modes for creating 7.1 speaker output when you only have 5.1 speakers).
> 
> --Bob



Thanks again Bob!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16551586
> 
> 
> When I turn on my JVC projector while the D2 is playing another source like a CD the music will briefly stop while the projector is booting up. This is obviously something going on in the HDMI connections but I don't assume right away it's the D2.
> 
> 
> mk



I never do that. My PJ comes on first. Then the D2 - Then sources feeding

the D2. That way the D2 handshakes with the PJ and when the sources

come on - they handshake with the D2. I also make sure there is GOOD

DELAY between each stage to allow the handshake to complete without

any race conditions.


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16553562
> 
> 
> I never do that. My PJ comes on first. Then the D2 - Then sources feeding
> 
> the D2. That way the D2 handshakes with the PJ and when the sources
> 
> come on - they handshake with the D2. I also make sure there is GOOD
> 
> DELAY between each stage to allow the handshake to complete without
> 
> any race conditions.



That actually does sound like a good idea it's just that sometimes I might be listening to CD's for awhile with the projector not being used. Then I decide to throw in a DVD. It's not unusual that the CD is in the SACD player so I want to let the music just keep playing while I power up the projector and let the bluray player spin up the DVD. Anyway, this issue doesn't seem to hurt anything, you just lose the sound for a few seconds and then it's fine so it's not a big deal, just an observation. I would guess this may just be a characteristic of HDMI more than being an issue with the D2.


If I get my FR issues resolved with the D2 I won't lose a seconds sleep over this brief loss of sound or anything else. I'm not sure I'll bother upgrading to the D2v because right now I'm not sure I need it. I agree with you, other than my issues which are currently being investigated, the D2 is perfect!


mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Turning ON the display forces a new handshake because the Anthem is no longer the end device in the HDMI chain. Turning OFF the display also forces a new handshake.


The handshake goes from end to end -- source to display. And since HDCP (copy protection) is being re-established, it is normal for there to be a couple seconds of muted audio until that completes. Video is also being muted, but of course you don't notice that since you are power cycling the display anyway.


NOTE: There's a bug in the D2 V1.33 firmware that keeps audio muted if you try to play music from an HDMI source and turn OFF the display during that. The workaround is to turn off the display BEFORE selecting that HDMI audio source, or to switch D2 inputs to something else and back after turning off the display. The D2v firmware (any version) doesn't have this bug -- audio will mute for a couple seconds when you turn off the display (as the source performs the new handshake) then audio returns properly.


------------------------------------------------------


There are quite a few displays that get confused if the HDMI handshake begins before they have finished powering up. For some reason, projectors seem to be more prone to this. The HDMI handshake has built in delays (one reason it takes so long in the first place) to give the display time to respond and get its act together, but apparently these delays aren't long enough when these projectors are powering up.


Newer models that support HDMI CEC (device control protocol) shouldn't have this problem (assuming they are left connected to wall power) since their HDMI sockets are powered to support the CEC stuff even when the display is "off". But it's really all about how the display turns on, how it boots up, and when it becomes ready to respond properly to the HDMI handshake.


The workaround, of course, is to power up the display first. But when that's not convenient, it should be sufficient to force a new handshake after the display finishes powering up -- i.e., change input resolutions from the source device or switch the Anthem to a different input and back.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2v / AVM 50v V2.06 firmware and the ARC V2.2 software have not yet appeared on Anthem's public download page. I don't know if Anthem found a problem or if they just want to take the weekend to test them some more before dubbing them "official".

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16551896
> 
> 
> Temporarily swap the speaker outputs for C and LF on the back of the Anthem. Then try the speaker calibration for both.
> 
> 
> If the problem stays in C then it is a problem happening AFTER the Anthem -- cables, amps or speaker.
> 
> 
> If the problem moves to LF then it is a problem happening in or before the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Hiss sounds can result from certain types of Radio Frequency interference. They are commonly associated with use of light dimmers. Check the Hum FAQ sticky thread in the Audio Theory forum here to see if any of the suggestions in there appear relevant.
> 
> 
> Isolating this to decide if it is a problem in the Anthem is a bit of a nuisance.
> 
> 
> For example, the first step is to disconnect EVERYTHING from the back of the Anthem except for the power cord and the single speaker output cable to the C speaker. [This is after you've done the test above to eliminate the possibility that the problem is coming from something after the Anthem.]
> 
> 
> Then bring up that Calibration test tone (using the Front Panel) and see if the hiss is still there. If it is gone, hook things back up until it reappears.
> 
> 
> If the hiss is still in there, then you should probably give Anthem tech support a call. It may be nothing more than that you need to re-install the firmware, but you should give them a chance to walk this through with you.
> 
> 
> If it turns out it really is a hardware problem, they'll sort things out pretty quickly for you.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I found that the TV speakers were on and since there was no source it was making a hiss sound. What a relief. I tried to do the ARC. when I start the mic at first position the LF testing never moves to the center. it gets stuck. I rebooted my computer many times but never helped. The d2v shows FM1 at -95 sound level. What am I doing wrong? The ARC version is 2.1. Thanks.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16554061
> 
> 
> The D2v / AVM 50v V2.06 firmware and the ARC V2.2 software have not yet appeared on Anthem's public download page. I don't know if Anthem found a problem or if they just want to take the weekend to test them some more before dubbing them "official".
> 
> --Bob



Strangely though, if you download the zip file 2.06 is the name of the exe file.


And the changelist is there. So it appears it is up, even though the link text to the zip file still says v2.04.



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.06:
> 
> 
> 1. Improved HDMI connectivity with media servers, including AppleTV, as well as displays when two displays are connected and they are a different brand.
> 
> 
> 2. Various fixes to improve stability.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16555264
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I found that the TV speakers were on and since there was no source it was making a hiss sound. What a relief. I tried to do the ARC. when I start the mic at first position the LF testing never moves to the center. it gets stuck. I rebooted my computer many times but never helped. The d2v shows FM1 at -95 sound level. What am I doing wrong? The ARC version is 2.1. Thanks.




Glad you found your problem....


This is exactly the reason why I was asking earlier if there was a way to stop the Anthem from passing on audio through HDMI to the Display, so things like this don't happen, if you have a projector or a display that has speakers or volume - this could potentially be a problem for people.


It would just be nice to add this as an option to make it selectable, but I assume with HDCP that its not possible....


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16555291
> 
> 
> Strangely though, if you download the zip file 2.06 is the name of the exe file.
> 
> 
> And the changelist is there. So it appears it is up, even though the link text to the zip file still says v2.04.



You're right. Go figure

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2v / AVM 50v Firmware V2.06 is now "Official"


ARC V2.2 Software is now "Official"


D2v & AVM 50v Manuals Updated*


As others have already discovered, Anthem's public download pages have been updated to download new software even though the text of the download links on the web pages themselves has not yet been updated.


The D2v & AVM 50v Manuals have been updated to May 21 versions. To get these, you need to go to the Operating Manual download pages. The versions included in the ARC V2.2 download kit are still the May 15 versions. So far I haven't spotted any interesting changes in the May 21 versions.


---------------------------------------------------


D2v and AVM 50v Firmware V2.06 can be downloaded by using the existing V2.04 download links on the public download pages.


Change notes since the prior, "official" version, V2.04, read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.06:
> 
> 
> 1. Improved HDMI connectivity with media servers, including AppleTV, as well as displays when two displays are connected and they are a different brand.
> 
> 
> 2. Various fixes to improve stability.



Even though the specific bug fixes are not called out, I think there is good reason to expect V2.06 will be a useful improvement over V2.04. So far I don't know of any downside to moving to v2.06. I recommend all D2v and AVM 50v owners upgrade to V2.06 as soon as convenient.


-----------------------------------------------------


The ARC V2.2 install kit, which also includes Anthem's utility programs such as Live Video Settings Editor, Settings Backup, and the new Setup Editor for the D2v and AVM 50v, can be downloaded by using the existing ARC V2.1 download links on Anthem's public download pages.


Please note, ARC V2.2 is for ALL Anthem ARC-capable processors, not just the D2v and AVM 50v.


Change notes since the prior, "official" version V2.1 read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.2:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for Vista where ARC fails to find a valid microphone when PBK (Paradigm Bass Kit) and ARC are on the same computer.
> 
> 
> The Utilities folder also contains a Setup Editor for the AVM 50v and D2v.



This update to ARC really is a minor change. If you are not having the specific problem fixed here (PBK and ARC software installed on the same Windows Vista computer) there is no rush to move from ARC V2.1 to ARC V2.2.


However, my recommendation would be that if you are planning on doing new ARC Measurements anyway, you should install ARC V2.2 first on your Windows computer.


--------------------------------------------------


NOTE: Firmware for the original D2 and AVM 50 remains at V1.33.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob. When I run ARC the LF gets stuck at position 1 and the test tone does not move to the center. Would you help me to fix this. The d2v shows FM1 and -95 vollume settings.

As always I appreciate it. I am using ARC 2.1.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16557359
> 
> 
> Hello Bob. When I run ARC the LF gets stuck at position 1 and the test tone does not move to the center. Would you help me to fix this. The d2v shows FM1 and -95 vollume settings.
> 
> As always I appreciate it. I am using ARC 2.1.



I suspect you are having a problem with your serial connection. Make sure you don't have any other programs running while doing the ARC stuff. Turn off protection stuff like software firewalls. Disconnect other hardware from the computer such as other USB devices.


What version of Windows are you using? What are you using for your serial connection?


ETA: Make sure you already have a Center speaker configured in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie / Music.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab

No differences that I can see. I reran ARC just to see.


I think it might be quicker at resynching to/from 480i source material over HDMI, probably forgoing the HDCP handshake or something. But that's all I notice.


I also noticed that the brief white-noise when changing speakers during the ARC sweeps is almost entirely gone. No biggie though.


I'm still really irritated that my natural room response curves suck so bad... I have so much acoustic treatment, you'd think I'd be nearly flat! Argh...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I installed "official" D2v firmware V2.06 (from the public download page) and "official" ARC V2.2 as well. No problems. No surprises.


In my case I just used ARC V2.2 to re-Upload my prior ARC V2.1 results. No need to even re-Calculate.


---------------------------------------


Keep in mind that even though it is not mentioned in the release notes, we know from Nick that the reverse telecine stuff is in fact in D2v and AVM 50v firmware V2.06 as a "work in progress". To use it, set 1080p/24 as your Video Out Configuration resolution for that Source Setup and also turn on Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock = Auto.


Expect the HDMI handshake to take a couple seconds longer for that Source Setup as the Anthem has to look for and lock into the film-based content frame rate if it is present before it can set the output frame rate.


This is for converting 480i/60 or 1080i/60 film-based content to 1080p/24 for output. If the input is already 1080p/24 it is supposed to pass to the output as 1080p/24 without any frame rate conversion. If the input is anything/60 and the firmware does not detect it to be originally film-rate (i.e., /24 content raised to /60 for broadcast or recording on SD-DVD) then the firmware is supposed to leave it at /60 and automatically change the Video Out frame rate to /60 -- i.e., automatically "frame rate locking" the output to the input.


Reverse telecine will work best on newer film-rate 480i or 1080i content that has been produced using a high quality telecine process and which doesn't have numerous bad edits that break the field repeat cadence. Problems in the original telecine processing of the source content may cause reverse telecine to fail so that you see stuttering of the video.


You should have another Source Setup configured that uses a separate Video Out configuration specifying 1080p/60 and which has Frame Lock = OFF in its Video Source Adjust > Output setting. If you encounter stuttering with 480i or 1080i input when trying to use the Source Setup set for reverse telecine, try switching temporarily to this separate Source Setup and back to force the reverse telecine stuff to take another look at the video input stream.


Another thing to try is pausing the movie and starting it up again.


For use with an SD-DVD player, I believe you must set the player to output 480i. I don't think you can use 480p or any upscaled resolution (even 1080i) as that means the player has to de-interlace the content prior to scaling which may screw up what the Anthem needs to see to detect the original film-rate cadence.


Similarly, for use when watching movies on a cable or satellite box, you want the box to send out 480i for SD channels and 1080i for 1080i HD channels. I do not know whether the reverse telecine stuff will work well, or even at all, if you send out 480p or higher for SD channels, or if you have the box de-interlace 1080i HD channels to 1080p, or if you are watching a 720p HD channel in the first place (although it is rare for HDTV movies to be broadcast as 720p).


We'll just have to see what works as more folks play around with this.


For Blu-Ray playback, set the player to output 1080p/24 for discs with 1080p/24 content, and either 1080i/60 or 1080p/60 for other Blu-Ray discs (e.g., "live concert" discs). SD-DVD output from the Blu-Ray player will probably need to be 480i for reverse telecine to work well in the Anthem.


If this is your first time trying 1080p/24 stuff with your display, first try playing Blu-Ray movies (1080p/24 on disc and output just that way from the player) using a fixed 1080p/24 output in the D2v or AVM 50v and with Frame Lock = OFF. This is just to confirm that your display really can handle 1080p/24 input properly and display it in a "judder free" fashion -- i.e., at a multiple of 24 frames per second. Again this is for real 1080p/24 content already present on the Blu-Ray disc and output that way from the player to the Anthem. [Do not try this fixed 1080p/24 setup with any video rate content or you are guaranteed to get "stuttering".] If you see "judder" or even worse "stuttering" playing 1080p/24 Blu-Ray movies this way, then you know your display has a problem handling 1080p/24 input to begin with, and adding the Anthem reverse telecine into the processing path won't fix that. Just use fixed 1080p/60 output from the Anthem instead (the Blu-Ray player can still send 1080p/24 input to the Anthem).


---------------------------------------------


ETA: In the past we've had reports here of some projectors that can accept /48 input and work well ("judder free") but which do not work well with /24 input. I don't know if it is possible to set up the new, reverse telecine stuff to convert /24 input to /48 output (which is available as an additional, "pre-defined" video output setup you can load into the Anthem using the Live Video Settings Editor utility) while still converting to /60 output automatically as needed. The Frame Lock = Auto stuff may force the output to /24 instead of /48 in such cases.


----------------------------------------------


ETA 2: For newbies: "Judder", more properly "cadence judder", is a subtle lack of smoothness in motion when viewing movies on traditional TVs. Most people see it first when taking a careful look at how the credits scroll at the end of a movie -- a step by step scroll instead of a smooth motion. You've been seeing cadence judder in TV movies all your life, and the brain is very good at ignoring it unless you have a "judder free" setup side by side for comparison. Cadence judder happens because the content was originally shot at 24 frames per second and TV is 30 or 60 frames per second. The film rate stuff is raised to video rate by the "telecine" process" which repeats interlaced half-frames (called "fields") in a set "cadence" to create the extra frames per second. The upshot is that some fields are on screen longer than other fields and so the motion has this slight jerkiness to it.


A "judder free" setup uses an advanced "reverse telecine" process to detect and remove the duplicated fields. When it works, this leaves behind just the original 24fps film-rate content. This then gets played into a TV that is clever enough to automatically switch its screen refresh rate to a multiple of 24fps -- usually 48fps or 72fps, but perhaps up to 120fps in newer displays. [120fps is interesting because it is ALSO a multiple of 30fps for viewing video rate content.] The "reverse telecine" part is not needed when watching Blu-Ray movies, since they are already on disc as 1080p/24 -- i.e., they were never telecine processed in the first place. But you still need the special TV to view them "cadence judder free". For normal TVs, the Blu-Ray player (or the Anthem) adds telecine "on the fly" to produce 1080p/60 output -- this process is easy and problem free.


Reverse telecine, on the other hand, is tough because modern movies often have video rate content mixed in with film rate content due to video-based editing tools or the incorporation of special effects. Edits can also screw up the field repeat cadence, and older movies were processed using a simple, optical form of telecine (aiming a film projector at a TV camera) which makes it very hard to find the field repeat cadence in the first place.


Because the brain is so good at ignoring "cadence judder", most people don't see it unless it is pointed out to them. There is an entirely different type of "judder", called "motion judder" which is due to the fact that 24 frames per second is not really fast enough to capture all the action smoothly. Sometimes you will see motion judder in vertical edges moving rapidly from one side to the other as the camera pans -- they jump from place to place instead of progressing smoothly across the screen. Motion judder is in the content to begin with -- and will even show up in movie theaters. Film makers know all about motion judder and do tricks to reduce it such as blurring the focus of distant objects during camera pans. I only mention it because a "cadence judder free" setup won't do anything about "motion judder" if it is present in the original film.


Finally there is "stuttering". This is a MUCH more noticeable defect caused by a breakdown in the processing of the video stream. If you get stuttering it will be obvious -- the brain won't ignore it. One easy way to see stuttering, if you want, is to force real video rate content -- stuff originally recorded at 30fps or 60fps -- to be converted to 24fps. Unlike the case of raising film rate to video rate (via the simple field repeat cadence "telecine" trick), there is no good way to decide which frames to discard to lower video rate to film rate. And thus you get stuttering no matter what you try.


-----------------------------------------------


ETA 3: For folks using the D2v or AVM 50v in PAL TV markets, none of this "telecine" or "reverse telecine" stuff applies to you. Films shot at 24fps are just played at 25fps for TV in those markets without any other adjustment to the video. The film plays in 96% of the time it takes to play in NTSC TV markets but that difference is small enough that it doesn't seem to bother anybody. (The audio is pitch corrected so that it sounds correct.) Since repeated fields are not added for viewing on TV, there is no possibility of cadence judder and nothing for reverse telecine processing to correct. You just use /50 output from the D2v or AVM 50v for your PAL market display.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I just tried my buddies XA2 to test for the popping, crackling I get from my XA2. It also produced the same noise. I did notice that when I changed the hdmi imput in the back of the D2v, I didn't get any sound on TrueHD which I had using the original input. Well, that didn't last long. Back to getting sounds on both TrueHD and DTS-MA but still ok for anyother sound format. Looks like the trip to anthem on Tuesday will help to narrow this down.

John


----------



## Nicoff

I just loaded the newest version of ARC into my computer (V2.2). When doing so I realized that I was using a much older version of ARC (version 1.1 I think).

According to the read me file, anyone updating from version 1.0 should re-do the measurements. The document does not mention version 1.1 so I wonder if that applies to me as well. In any event, I will have to go through the entire process once I get my amp for the center/surround channels back from the shop.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16559317
> 
> 
> I just loaded the newest version of ARC into my computer (V2.2). When doing so I realized that I was using a much older version of ARC (version 1.1 I think).
> 
> According to the read me file, anyone updating from version 1.0 should re-do the measurements. The document does not mention version 1.1 so I wonder if that applies to me as well. In any event, I will have to go through the entire process once I get my amp for the center/surround channels back from the shop.



Yes, you should start fresh and re-Measure with ARC V2.2. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at how much better it sounds than your older ARC results.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16557481
> 
> 
> I suspect you are having a problem with your serial connection. Make sure you don't have any other programs running while doing the ARC stuff. Turn off protection stuff like software firewalls. Disconnect other hardware from the computer such as other USB devices.
> 
> 
> What version of Windows are you using? What are you using for your serial connection?
> 
> 
> ETA: Make sure you already have a Center speaker configured in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie / Music.
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob. I am using win vista home prem and the Serial to USB adapter with the latest driver installed for win vista and the other usb connection to the mic. I do not have any other devices. I will try disabling the firewire. and yes I have center speaker turned on. I am using 5.1 system. How long should it take to move from speaker to speaker during the ARC process? Thanks Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16559425
> 
> 
> Hello Bob. I am using win vista home prem and the Serial to USB adapter with the latest driver installed for win vista and the other usb connection to the mic. I do not have any other devices. I will try disabling the firewire. and yes I have center speaker turned on. I am using 5.1 system. How long should it take to move from speaker to speaker during the ARC process? Thanks Bob.



First I was talking "fire wall" -- i.e., security software -- not "fire wire".


It should only take a couple seconds for the next speaker to start after the sweep tones complete for the current speaker. The sweep tones for each speaker repeat about 8 times. For a given mic position, each speaker is processed in turn, and then the software pauses until you tell it you've got the mic at the next location.


If ARC detects a problem with any speaker, it will also stop and put up a message asking if you want to retry for that speaker or abort the Measurement process.


Which USB/Serial adapter are you using? Most folks seem to be having the best luck with the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter (available from Amazon as well as other places). Remove the drivers for any previous adapter before installing a new adapter.


If this doesn't lead to an easy fix, you'll need to give Anthem tech support a call on Monday so they can walk you through diagnosing this.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16559504
> 
> 
> First I was talking "fire wall" -- i.e., security software -- not "fire wire".
> 
> 
> It should only take a couple seconds for the next speaker to start after the sweep tones complete for the current speaker. The sweep tones for each speaker repeat about 8 times. For a given mic position, each speaker is processed in turn, and then the software pauses until you tell it you've got the mic at the next location.
> 
> 
> If ARC detects a problem with any speaker, it will also stop and put up a message asking if you want to retry for that speaker or abort the Measurement process.
> 
> 
> Which USB/Serial adapter are you using? Most folks seem to be having the best luck with the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter (available from Amazon as well as other places). Remove the drivers for any previous adapter before installing a new adapter.
> 
> 
> If this doesn't lead to an easy fix, you'll need to give Anthem tech support a call on Monday so they can walk you through diagnosing this.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I am using Belkin adapter. I just ordered the adapter you suggested. I will also call Anthem a call Monday just in case. Thanks again.


----------



## CycloneMike

I searched, but could not find the post that asked if anyone else had tried the Oppo BDP-83 using the IR control cable that Oppo will supply for the BDP-83 that is supposed to convert the Oppo "stereo" jack to a mono jack used with the D2v.


I tried it today - it does not work. I am using a flasher that sticks on the front of the Oppo instead. That works great. I will just stick with that.


The IR out has worked with my Denon and Arcam products, both use a mono connection for IR.


Thus far that is the main strike I have for the Oppo, using the stereo cable for IR, which is not the norm for audio/video components. At least those I have owned! One strike is a long way from striking out!


Mike


----------



## Nick HT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16560743
> 
> 
> I searched, but could not find the post that asked if anyone else had tried the Oppo BDP-83 using the IR control cable that Oppo will supply for the BDP-83 that is supposed to convert the Oppo "stereo" jack to a mono jack used with the D2v.
> 
> 
> I tried it today - it does not work. I am using a flasher that sticks on the front of the Oppo instead. That works great. I will just stick with that.
> 
> 
> The IR out has worked with my Denon and Arcam products, both use a mono connection for IR.
> 
> 
> Thus far that is the main strike I have for the Oppo, using the stereo cable for IR, which is not the norm for audio/video components. At least those I have owned! One strike is a long way from striking out!
> 
> 
> Mike





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick HT* /forum/post/16537790
> 
> 
> An update on D2v to Oppo IR compatibility:
> 
> 
> I did some further testing of the D2v (using IR flashers from each of the IR output jacks) to the Oppo front panel, which worked fine.
> 
> 
> This would seem to point to a faullty IR input on the Oppo.
> 
> 
> Oppo support responded by saying "In our testing we have found direct IR connections with receivers can be a little flacky versus using a IR block or distributor. We will see if one of our beta testers who has an Anthem can't perform some IR compatibility testing."



See my response from Oppo above -- still waiting for an update


----------



## svirajsilp

A very first review from HiFi News June 09


----------



## ehlarson

Hooking up my D2V the first time - interesting experience. I think this is the first piece of AV equipment that I actually had to read the manual to get working - there are just so many options.It's nice that the manual is actually well written though, making that process relatively straight forward. I've only run into one issue so far.


The issue I have run into that people here might have some insight to is the behavior of my cable box. Prior to the arrival of the D2V I had it connected to my screen directly via HDMI, which worked fine.


Now I am hooking the cable box to the D2V via HDMI and then to my screen. It continues to work fine so long as the D2V is turned on. Handshaking is a little slower, but I sort of expected that.


HOWEVER when I turn the D2V off, the cable box starts rebooting, over and over. It doesn't matter if the cable box is off or on. It is pretty annoying for a variety of reasons including that I have to wait for the reboot to finish when I want to watch TV. It seems like there is something with the HDMI off state of the D2V that is blowing the cable box's mind.


I am wondering if anyone has seen this and is aware of a workaround that will continue to allow me to use my HDMI connection?


I'm on Cablevision, my box is a Scientific Atlanta 4250HD, and my screen is a Sony kdf-60xs955.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16563237
> 
> 
> Hooking up my D2V the first time - interesting experience. I think this is the first piece of AV equipment that I actually had to read the manual to get working - there are just so many options.It's nice that the manual is actually well written though, making that process relatively straight forward. I've only run into one issue so far.
> 
> 
> The issue I have run into that people here might have some insight to is the behavior of my cable box. Prior to the arrival of the D2V I had it connected to my screen directly via HDMI, which worked fine.
> 
> 
> Now I am hooking the cable box to the D2V via HDMI and then to my screen. It continues to work fine so long as the D2V is turned on. Handshaking is a little slower, but I sort of expected that.
> 
> 
> HOWEVER when I turn the D2V off, the cable box starts rebooting, over and over. It doesn't matter if the cable box is off or on. It is pretty annoying for a variety of reasons including that I have to wait for the reboot to finish when I want to watch TV. It seems like there is something with the HDMI off state of the D2V that is blowing the cable box's mind.
> 
> 
> I am wondering if anyone has seen this and is aware of a workaround that will continue to allow me to use my HDMI connection?
> 
> 
> I'm on Cablevision, my box is a Scientific Atlanta 4250HD, and my screen is a Sony kdf-60xs955.



Give Anthem tech support a call. There have been reports of this behavior from a different model of Scientific Atlanta box -- the 8300. I don't know how similar these two boxes are. If your cable provider offers a newer version of their box, you might also want to swap out for that one.


While waiting for a solution, use Component video and Optical digital audio cabling from the box as a workaround. Actually quite a few folks here are using Component/Optical from cable and satellite boxes as their permanent hookup.


NOTE: If you have not already done so, update your D2v to the new V2.06 firmware that became "official" over the weekend. There are HDMI related fixes in V2.06 that may help. The links on the public download page will get you the V2.06 firmware and also the new ARC V2.2 (even though the web page itself has not yet been updated to change the version numbers shown in the download links):

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Now that "official" D2v and AVM 50v V2.06 firmware, and "official" ARC V2.2 software, are both available on Anthem's public download pages, we are once again on Cookie Watch for when these start shipping with new hardware from the factory!


There's a cookie available to the first poster who powers on a new D2v or AVM 50v and confirms that V2.06 (or later) firmware was factory installed.


There's also a cookie available to the first poster who installs ARC from the CD included with a new unit and verifies that ARC V2.2 or later was included in the box.


To see the version number of the firmware, press Select once on the remote and look at the first line of status info in the Front Panel display. No need to wire up the Anthem processor to check this.


To see the version number of ARC, run ARC in Advanced mode and choose the About item from the Help menu. No need to attach the mic or the serial cable, or do any of the ARC setup stuff to check this.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16563420
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call. There have been reports of this behavior from a different model of Scientific Atlanta box -- the 8300. I don't know how similar these two boxes are. If your cable provider offers a newer version of their box, you might also want to swap out for that one.
> 
> 
> While waiting for a solution, use Component video and Optical digital audio cabling from the box as a workaround. Actually quite a few folks here are using Component/Optical from cable and satellite boxes as their permanent hookup.
> 
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html
> 
> 
> --Bob



I have not updated the software yet, but I get the same response from my SA8300HD. I have switched to component and digital coaxial and no problems.


----------



## Warpdrv

Hey Bob, or anyone.... can you link me to the password protected download page, I have not been there or seen it...


thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16563713
> 
> 
> Hey Bob, or anyone.... can you link me to the password protected download page, I have not been there or seen it...
> 
> 
> thanks



Anthem has asked that we do not hand out the password. It's no big secret, but they are trying to keep some sort of track of who is using that "test" software -- at the very least to make sure you understand that "test" software is not finished yet and may come with surprises.


Right now, all the latest software is on Anthem's public download pages -- the "official" software. When newer "test" software comes out you'll know about it here. If it is something you think will help a problem you are having, just email Anthem tech support and they will likely reply back with the access info.


Please note that they sometimes put out test software that is just for certain configurations of hardware or attached source/display devices -- i.e., not for everyone. They put that up so folks with specific problems can see if a possible fix is actually working. So it is not always the case that everyone with access should jump on new "test" software every time it appears.

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16563237
> 
> 
> Hooking up my D2V the first time - interesting experience. I think this is the first piece of AV equipment that I actually had to read the manual to get working - there are just so many options.It's nice that the manual is actually well written though, making that process relatively straight forward. I've only run into one issue so far.
> 
> 
> The issue I have run into that people here might have some insight to is the behavior of my cable box. Prior to the arrival of the D2V I had it connected to my screen directly via HDMI, which worked fine.
> 
> 
> Now I am hooking the cable box to the D2V via HDMI and then to my screen. It continues to work fine so long as the D2V is turned on. Handshaking is a little slower, but I sort of expected that.
> 
> 
> HOWEVER when I turn the D2V off, the cable box starts rebooting, over and over. It doesn't matter if the cable box is off or on. It is pretty annoying for a variety of reasons including that I have to wait for the reboot to finish when I want to watch TV. It seems like there is something with the HDMI off state of the D2V that is blowing the cable box's mind.
> 
> 
> I am wondering if anyone has seen this and is aware of a workaround that will continue to allow me to use my HDMI connection?
> 
> 
> I'm on Cablevision, my box is a Scientific Atlanta 4250HD, and my screen is a Sony kdf-60xs955.




My SA8300HD did the same thing, just not as often. Component and Coax fixed it right up. I've always had some kind of issue with HDMI and the SA boxes regardless of what it was connected to.


----------



## usxplong

I have a question. Last night I was playing a 5.1 material and the front panel was showing 5.1 + PLII Movie. I have a 5.1 speaker setup. I don't need the PLII Movie. How can I just get pure 5.1 DD or 5.1 DTS without PLII Movie extension? Thanks.


----------



## Warpdrv

Yes, I am still trying to figure out how the added sound matrixes work...


there are a couple of different buttons, like the DTS and THX, but I can't always try out multiple scenarios....


I have yet to get my rear surround speakers, but soon enough...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16564518
> 
> 
> I have a question. Last night I was playing a 5.1 material and the front panel was showing 5.1 + PLII Movie. I have a 5.1 speaker setup. I don't need the PLII Movie. How can I just get pure 5.1 DD or 5.1 DTS without PLII Movie extension? Thanks.



Double check that you have Setup > Speaker Configuration > Bass Management Movie/Music > Rears = NONE.


By the way, in a 5.1 speaker configuration, the surround speakers should be wired to the SIDE speaker outputs, not the REAR speaker outputs, regardless of how far back you have them set in the room.

--Bob


----------



## Johnsteph10

My D2v is shipping today!


It is easier to ask rather than search -- but what do I need for updates?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The download links on Anthem's public download pages have now been re-labeled to reflect the changes actually made over the weekend.


The D2v and AVM 50v "official" firmware links will download the appropriate V2.06 installer.


The ARC software links (all ARC-capable models) will download the ARC V2.2 install kit, including utilities and manuals.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16565790
> 
> 
> My D2v is shipping today!
> 
> 
> It is easier to ask rather than search -- but what do I need for updates?



Congrats







It may have the newest software already. Bob gives cookies for that. But if it doesn't you'll need a laptop or computer with windows to run the software. You'll also need a serial adapter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. This is the one I use that works great per Bob's recommendation (I use windows xp on a macbook pro via bootcamp):

http://www.amazon.com/Keyspan-Speed-.../dp/B0000VYJRY 


And maybe a boom mic stand if you want to use that instead of the supplied stand for running ARC. Aide from that I don't think I needed to buy anything else for mine.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16565790
> 
> 
> My D2v is shipping today!
> 
> 
> It is easier to ask rather than search -- but what do I need for updates?



It is possible your D2v may have shipped with the latest stuff, since that software was released to the factory for inclusion in new units late last week.


But if you need it, the latest D2v firmware is V2.06, and the latest ARC software is V2.2. Both are available for download from the public download page for the D2v:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


--Bob


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16563237
> 
> 
> HOWEVER when I turn the D2V off, the cable box starts rebooting, over and over. It doesn't matter if the cable box is off or on. It is pretty annoying for a variety of reasons including that I have to wait for the reboot to finish when I want to watch TV. It seems like there is something with the HDMI off state of the D2V that is blowing the cable box's mind.
> 
> 
> I am wondering if anyone has seen this and is aware of a workaround that will continue to allow me to use my HDMI connection?
> 
> 
> I'm on Cablevision, my box is a Scientific Atlanta 4250HD, and my screen is a Sony kdf-60xs955.



I had two choices to make my 8300 stop rebooting. 1) leave the d2v on all the time, or 2) switch to component/digital coax. I chose the latter.


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16565790
> 
> 
> My D2v is shipping today!
> 
> 
> It is easier to ask rather than search -- but what do I need for updates?




What was your order date?


----------



## jayray

Firmware 2.06 seems to have another bug. While playing my 2L the Nordic Sound Blu-ray, each time a song changed, the 5.1 PLIIx failed to initiate. Before it was only at the beginning of a movie, but here it occurs after each song plays. Changing sources corrects this but it's a bit much to have to change it for every song. Will mention this to Nick tomorrow when I am at Anthem.

John


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

I have adjusted my bass and treble settings. When arc is engaged does it disengage the bass and treble settings? Also when it ARC records measurements does it also turn off bass and treble if it was turned on before hand?


Also, when arc is turned on, it turns off room resonance settings and boundry gain correct and thx ultra sub setting? So, if those are turned on and arc is turned on, those settings are turned off. And when arc is turned off those settings are turned back on right?


-b


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Room Resonance Filter, Center EQ, LFE Bypass, and THX Ultra 2 / Boundary Gain settings are ignored both during ARC Measurement and during listening after ARC is set up for Sources using Room EQ = ON. Essentially all of that stuff is replaced by the more sophisticated ARC solution.


If you play a source with Room EQ = OFF, all of those settings come back into effect.


The Bass /Treble settings are ignored during ARC Measurement. They are applied during listening -- basically adjusting the audio input content. ARC corrects for speaker performance within a given room. Bass/Treble adjust for user taste and for variations in source content.


So think of the Bass/Treble adjustments as if they were like the Volume adjustment.

--Bob


----------



## svirajsilp

Bob,

just found one more problem (maybe) which I never get that problem from my old AVM-20.


The problem I found was the digital output.

I set the digital2 out put from TV source input (rca digital in). This setting was the same as my 20 setting. Then, I connected from digital2 out to my headphone amp (via digital input). It was no sound from headphone at all if I chose all other inputs except from tv input. When I used 20 the same situation, I can use my headphone whatever inputs was selected. So, is this the problem or I miss something?


----------



## Johnsteph10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/16566785
> 
> 
> What was your order date?



I ordered it on March 20!


----------



## Johnsteph10

I know one thing (amongst many) that interested me with the Anthem was that of the frequent FW updates to fix bugs but also add new features...in particular, Dolby Volume? Any ideas as to when they will be released?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *svirajsilp* /forum/post/16568745
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> just found one more problem (maybe) which I never get that problem from my old AVM-20.
> 
> 
> The problem I found was the digital output.
> 
> I set the digital2 out put from TV source input (rca digital in). This setting was the same as my 20 setting. Then, I connected from digital2 out to my headphone amp (via digital input). It was no sound from headphone at all if I chose all other inputs except from tv input. When I used 20 the same situation, I can use my headphone whatever inputs was selected. So, is this the problem or I miss something?



Press Select multiple times while viewing your TV input and see if a Copy Protection message is included in the list indicating the Digital Outputs are muted.


Either way you should probably send an email to Anthem tech support asking why the difference compared to the AVM-20.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16569593
> 
> 
> I know one thing (amongst many) that interested me with the Anthem was that of the frequent FW updates to fix bugs but also add new features...in particular, Dolby Volume? Any ideas as to when they will be released?



Now that V2.06 is out, getting Dolby Volume shipped is likely the next thing they are working on for the D2v and AVM 50v.


Last I heard, they just wanted to do some more work cleaning up the user interface for it.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16569891
> 
> 
> Now that V2.06 is out, getting Dolby Volume shipped is likely the next thing they are working on for the D2v and AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> Last I heard, they just wanted to do some more work cleaning up the user interface for it.
> 
> --Bob



Right - what exactly does this give me, and at what cost?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's a free firmware upgrade for the D2v and AVM 50v.


Primarily it is a more sophisticated way to do automatic volume adjustment while maintaining proper dynamics. It's my understanding that it integrates with ARC so that it works better with a proper ARC setup.


ETA: http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/200...ology-review/1 

http://www.dolby.com/consumer/techno...by-volume.html 


--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16571253
> 
> 
> It's a free firmware upgrade for the D2v and AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> Primarily it is a more sophisticated way to do automatic volume adjustment while maintaining proper dynamics.
> 
> 
> ETA: http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/200...ology-review/1
> 
> 
> --Bob



I meant "cost" in terms of losing dynamic range or something (I know it's free!).


Sounds like it just normalizes max volume somehow? I wonder how that works with movies (or TV), where they're really rangy. Like with explosions sometimes, and dialog other times?


EDIT: "It's one of those things that I would leave on all the time because it solves a problem and fixes the dynamic range of the audio without having to fiddle about." - That sounds scary...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16571306
> 
> 
> I meant "cost" in terms of losing dynamic range or something (I know it's free!).
> 
> 
> Sounds like it just normalizes max volume somehow? I wonder how that works with movies (or TV), where they're really rangy. Like with explosions sometimes, and dialog other times?
> 
> 
> EDIT: "It's one of those things that I would leave on all the time because it solves a problem and fixes the dynamic range of the audio without having to fiddle about." - That sounds scary...



I've never heard it. (Of course it can be turned off.)


Nick tells me they are quite impressed with how well it works over a wide range of content. He says the main problem they've got is presenting the user interface for it, since Dolby includes a lot of parameters that will be very difficult for users to understand, meaning it is far too easy to screw up the setup so that it sounds bad. So Anthem will put some boundaries on that to keep people from getting into trouble with it. And designing that has been the delay.


ETA: In the previous discussion we had on this here, most folks seemed to feel it might be worth keeping turned on for their cable or satellite source, but likely not for other sources. However folks who are already using the Dynamics settings in the Anthem processor (for late night listening or whatever), will likely find Dolby Volume a better solution.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16571369
> 
> 
> I've never heard it. (Of course it can be turned off.)
> 
> 
> Nick tells me they are quite impressed with how well it works over a wide range of content. He says the main problem they've got is presenting the user interface for it, since Dolby includes a lot of parameters that will be very difficult for users to understand, meaning it is far too easy to screw up the setup so that it sounds bad. So Anthem will put some boundaries on that to keep people from getting into trouble with it. And designing that has been the delay.
> 
> 
> ETA: In the previous discussion we had on this here, most folks seemed to feel it might be worth keeping turned on for their cable or satellite source, but likely not for other sources. However folks who are already using the Dynamics settings in the Anthem processor (for late night listening or whatever), will likely find Dolby Volume a better solution.
> 
> --Bob



Right - as long as it's per-source, that sounds like the right plan...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Personally, I doubt I'll need it to reduce dynamics for TV. My Comcast service area already puts out DD5.1 with ridiculously reduced amounts of LFE (compared to the same DD5.1 tracks on SD-DVD). In fact their "On Demand" service even includes movies in 5.0 -- no LFE at all! And I don't mean they steered it into LF/RF. I mean they just discarded it!


[This is part and parcel with other heavy handed "compression" techniques they've been using due to capacity problems in this service area.]


But it will probably be nice to have a way to automatically tone down some of the volume boost built into commercials. Boy, Comcast sure doesn't "compress" those!

--Bob


----------



## ragdog

Looks like a D2v will be where I will need to go for all of the system that I will be revising and the Lexicon will finally go. But I need to know if the only place you can purchase is from your local dealer, have problems with him. Just want to know Anthem's policy.


Thanks alll for the informative posts.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ragdog,

I just replied to your PM.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Just got back from Anthem and my two problems, DTS-MA 24/192 turning off PLIIx and crackling, popping from my XA2 hd dvd player when pausing truehd and DTS-MA bitstreamed to the D2v have been duplicated.

1. DTS-MA at 24/192 does not work with PLIIx. This a limit of Dolby Prologic. It will work on my 2L disc if I pick 5.1 LPCM so there is no problem now.

2. The XA2 with the latest firmware 2.4, and the D2v with 2.06 firmware created the same problem for the DSP programmers in Ottawa. So a future firmware should address this.


John


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16573114
> 
> 
> Just got back from Anthem and my two problems, DTS-MA 24/192 turning off PLIIx and crackling, popping from my XA2 hd dvd player when pausing truehd and DTS-MA bitstreamed to the D2v have been duplicated.
> 
> 1. DTS-MA at 24/192 does not work with PLIIx. This a limit of Dolby Prologic. It will work on my 2L disc if I pick 5.1 LPCM so there is no problem now.
> 
> 2. The XA2 with the latest firmware 2.4, and the D2v with 2.06 firmware created the same problem for the DSP programmers in Ottawa. So a future firmware should address this.
> 
> 
> John



Hey John, Thanks for the visit to Anthem and the update. As you may recall, I also have the XA2 with the same D2 issues. Now that you have put it right under their noses, a fix may be more likely. I haven't updated to 2.06 from 2.04 yet, but since the problem was still there with yours, we know that 2.06 didn't fix our issue. Thanks


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16573114
> 
> 
> 2. The XA2 with the latest firmware 2.4, and the D2v with 2.06 firmware created the same problem for the DSP programmers in Ottawa. So a future firmware should address this.



Excellent thanks John. Hopefully once this fix is made it will also fix the popping/crackling with other components (besides the XA2).


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I stop in everyday hoping today is the day they announce the D2 upgrade program along with prices! _Disappointed again_! Although I'm sure I'll be back tomorrow!


----------



## jayray

Nick just let me know the XA2 popping has been fixed and the tech page has now been updated to include this. This must be the fastest fix for any product ever made. Wow.

John


----------



## jayray

Change list for 2.06a listed below.

*CHANGE LIST



v2.06a beta:


1. Fix for popping that began in v2.06 with Toshiba XA2 as source.


2. New VXP video processor code.*


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Interesting! I'll have to try "test" firmware V2.06a and see if it fixes the "buzz/snap" sounds from my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi SD-DVD player.


Any word from Nick on what changed in the video processor code?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I was surprised to see the video processor code change. No mention of this today.

John


Just tried it out and on pause no popping but for FF and chapter skip it still does it







I'm going to try some other discs tomorrow to see if it is disc specific.

Will email Nick.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

"Test" firmware V2.06a does NOT fix the HDMI "buzz/snap" from my Pioneer DV-59avi.


It also does not fix the problem where LPCM playback of CDs into PLIIx Movie (or PLIIx Music) only produces output on 2.1 speakers instead of 5.1 until you change audio mode to something else and back.


The install itself was no problem -- no surprises.


So far I haven't detected any differences in the video processing, but I've only just started looking.

--Bob


----------



## dseliger

Just received my D2v today, order date of April 14th for those counting the days.


Arc 2.1 was on the CD in the ARC box.


2.04 is on the D2v according to the stamp on the box, im going to rack it and wire it right now so i'll report back if its different.


update: just booted it up and confirmed 2.04 on the unit from the factory.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16563475
> 
> 
> Now that "official" D2v and AVM 50v V2.06 firmware, and "official" ARC V2.2 software, are both available on Anthem's public download pages, we are once again on Cookie Watch for when these start shipping with new hardware from the factory!
> 
> 
> There's a cookie available to the first poster who powers on a new D2v or AVM 50v and confirms that V2.06 (or later) firmware was factory installed.
> 
> 
> There's also a cookie available to the first poster who installs ARC from the CD included with a new unit and verifies that ARC V2.2 or later was included in the box.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just finished testing "test" firmware V2.06a against my list of problems previously reported to Anthem. None of the problems are fixed. I wasn't really expecting any fixes given the sparse change notes (and also no email from Nick asking me to confirm a fix), but hope springs eternal....


So far, I've detected no changes arising from the new VXP (video processor) code.


My prior video calibration settings are still correct, and I've found no differences in the various experiments I've tried.


One thing that I need to take more time with is whether anything has changed in de-interlacing.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

Fired up D2v yesterday, didn't get to much time to play with it but I believe setting it up should be like setting up the AVM50v...

I got a purple color over fios HD channels, weird I have never seen this before. I did basic settings, video source out 1920...60p and Fios cable box Motorola output 1080i.

all my hdmi cable are monster high speed 1000s.

This afternoon I will download new v2.06 to see if this corrects purple/pink hue over picture..


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16576559
> 
> 
> Fired up D2v yesterday, didn't get to much time to play with it but I believe setting it up should be like setting up the AVM50v...
> 
> I got a purple color over fios HD channels, weird I have never seen this before. I did basic settings, video source out 1920...60p and Fios cable box Motorola output 1080i.
> 
> all my hdmi cable are monster high speed 1000s.
> 
> This afternoon I will download new v2.06 to see if this corrects purple/pink hue over picture..




Try switching to different HDMI inputs, and adjust your settings to reflect the different input, see if that changes things for you, it did for me with my Dish Network box... No problems for me with that...


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16576837
> 
> 
> Try switching to different HDMI inputs, and adjust your settings to reflect the different input, see if that changes things for you, it did for me with my Dish Network box... No problems for me with that...



Thanks Warpdrv....I'll give that I try. Did you download v2.06?


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16576873
> 
> 
> Thanks Warpdrv....I'll give that I try. Did you download v2.06?




Naaa I haven't done any of the upgrades yet, mine is working perfectly right out of the box, so I haven't felt the need... I have no issues to report, so I'll leave well enough alone for now...


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16577014
> 
> 
> Naaa I haven't done any of the upgrades yet, mine is working perfectly right out of the box, so I haven't felt the need... I have no issues to report, so I'll leave well enough alone for now...



I hear ya... I would do the same....

Thanks again


----------



## Alembicjeff

Well, the good news is that I received my OPPO BDP-83 but I'm still waiting for my D2v to ship (ordered early April). In the interim, I am seeking clarity from the group on the issues concerning the comcast 8300HD DVR box and its HDMI interface with the D2v.


I know that Bob and many members here recommend using component video connections for video and optical for audio as a workaround option. In my present setup, I send the video from the cable box directly to my display (presently a Sony R50XBR1- ouch) via HDMI, and the audio via a coaxial cable to my Parasound C1.


Here are my questions:


1) Will this setup (HDMI direct to display w/ coax to D2v) avoid the issues that D2v owners are having with the comcast box?


2) Are D2v owners getting a superior picture on their displays by using component video connections with the D2v and its video upscaler or is the picture better with HDMI direct to the display?


3) Is there any reason that the optical connection is being recommended for audio instead of the coaxial digital connection? I am under the impression that the audiophile "wisdom" has been that the coaxial connection is almost always superior to the optical connection in terms of sound quality. Any thoughts here?


Thanks guys!


Jeff.


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alembicjeff* /forum/post/16577533
> 
> 
> Well, the good news is that I received my OPPO BDP-83 but I'm still waiting for my D2v to ship (ordered early April). In the interim, I am seeking clarity from the group on the issues concerning the comcast 8300HD DVR box and its HDMI interface with the D2v.
> 
> 
> I know that Bob and many members here recommend using component video connections for video and optical for audio as a workaround option. In my present setup, I send the video from the cable box directly to my display (presently a Sony R50XBR1- ouch) via HDMI, and the audio via a coaxial cable to my Parasound C1.
> 
> 
> Here are my questions:
> 
> 
> 1) Will this setup (HDMI direct to display w/ coax to D2v) avoid the issues that D2v owners are having with the comcast box?
> 
> 
> 2) Are D2v owners getting a superior picture on their displays by using component video connections with the D2v and its video upscaler or is the picture better with HDMI direct to the display?
> 
> 
> 3) Is there any reason that the optical connection is being recommended for audio instead of the coaxial digital connection? I am under the impression that the audiophile "wisdom" has been that the coaxial connection is almost always superior to the optical connection in terms of sound quality. Any thoughts here?
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> 
> Jeff.



1) I tried HDMI to my Display and Coax to my previous AVR. It worked okay, just had to program different imputs on my remote. I decided against that setup with the D2v.


2) I use Component/Coax to DV2 and have the 8300HD set to pass through the native resolution. The D2v does a MUCH better job at scaling and the picture is the best I've ever had.


3) I used Coax cause it's the only cable I had that was long enough. I've always prefered Coax over Optical. Just me...


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16577563
> 
> 
> 
> 2) I use Component/Coax to DV2 and have the 8300HD set to pass through the native resolution. The D2v does a MUCH better job at scaling and the picture is the best I've ever had.



When you say the D2v "does a MUCH better job at scaling" are you comparing that to the D2?


Thanks,


David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16576559
> 
> 
> Fired up D2v yesterday, didn't get to much time to play with it but I believe setting it up should be like setting up the AVM50v...
> 
> I got a purple color over fios HD channels, weird I have never seen this before. I did basic settings, video source out 1920...60p and Fios cable box Motorola output 1080i.
> 
> all my hdmi cable are monster high speed 1000s.
> 
> This afternoon I will download new v2.06 to see if this corrects purple/pink hue over picture..



If you see moving video, but it is tinted shocking pink, that means the automatic HDMI handshake has gotten confused -- a device is sending YCbCr when the next device is expecting RGB. This isn't supposed to happen of course, but such is life with HDMI.


The usual fix is to set a specific data format instead of relying on the Automatic setting. For HDMI to HDMI connections that would usually be YCbCr 4:4:4. For HDMI to DVI or DVI to HDMI connections that would usually be Studio RGB.


In the Anthem you set that in Setup > Video Out for each Video Output Configuration you are using to your display.


If your FIOS box offers a choice here, set it as well.


By the way, if the handshake gets confused in the opposite direction then the video is tinted ghastly green.


Even if you are using Component video from the FIOS box, the HDMI handshake can get confused between the Anthem and the display.


----------------------------------------


Often, handshake problems are due to cable issues. Make sure the plugs are fully inserted straight into the socket. The weight of the cable can be enough to shift the plug and make for a marginal connection.


In general, if you have a handshake problem your immediate workaround is to force a new handshake. Switch the Anthem to a different input and back or change the output resolution of the source device and back -- e.g. switching between SD and HD channels if you have the box set that way.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alembicjeff* /forum/post/16577533
> 
> 
> Well, the good news is that I received my OPPO BDP-83 but I'm still waiting for my D2v to ship (ordered early April). In the interim, I am seeking clarity from the group on the issues concerning the comcast 8300HD DVR box and its HDMI interface with the D2v.
> 
> 
> I know that Bob and many members here recommend using component video connections for video and optical for audio as a workaround option. In my present setup, I send the video from the cable box directly to my display (presently a Sony R50XBR1- ouch) via HDMI, and the audio via a coaxial cable to my Parasound C1.
> 
> 
> Here are my questions:
> 
> 
> 1) Will this setup (HDMI direct to display w/ coax to D2v) avoid the issues that D2v owners are having with the comcast box?
> 
> 
> 2) Are D2v owners getting a superior picture on their displays by using component video connections with the D2v and its video upscaler or is the picture better with HDMI direct to the display?
> 
> 
> 3) Is there any reason that the optical connection is being recommended for audio instead of the coaxial digital connection? I am under the impression that the audiophile "wisdom" has been that the coaxial connection is almost always superior to the optical connection in terms of sound quality. Any thoughts here?
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> 
> Jeff.



Optical Digital and Component Digital audio cabling are identical in terms of the signals they carry and the quality of the audio. Use whichever is more convenient for you.


Bypassing the Anthem for video means you don't get to take advantage of the video processing in the Anthem. This is particularly important for SD channels since the Anthem likely does a better job of de-interlacing and scaling than either your 8300 or your TV. Send Component 480i to the Anthem for SD channels and Component 1080i (and 720p if your box allows you all 3 choices) for HD channels.


But even for HD channels, running the video through the Anthem allows you to use the video adjustments in the Anthem. These would include picture quality adjustments as well as convenience features like being able to get a letterboxed movie to fill your display screen. In addition, the Anthem will de-interlace 1080i to 1080p and scale 720p or 1080i as necessary to match what your display wants. Really, it is a good idea to run the video through the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alembicjeff* /forum/post/16577533
> 
> 
> Well, the good news is that I received my OPPO BDP-83 but I'm still waiting for my D2v to ship (ordered early April). In the interim, I am seeking clarity from the group on the issues concerning the comcast 8300HD DVR box and its HDMI interface with the D2v.
> 
> 
> I know that Bob and many members here recommend using component video connections for video and optical for audio as a workaround option. In my present setup, I send the video from the cable box directly to my display (presently a Sony R50XBR1- ouch) via HDMI, and the audio via a coaxial cable to my Parasound C1.
> 
> 
> Here are my questions:
> 
> 
> 1) Will this setup (HDMI direct to display w/ coax to D2v) avoid the issues that D2v owners are having with the comcast box?
> 
> 
> 2) Are D2v owners getting a superior picture on their displays by using component video connections with the D2v and its video upscaler or is the picture better with HDMI direct to the display?
> 
> 
> 3) Is there any reason that the optical connection is being recommended for audio instead of the coaxial digital connection? I am under the impression that the audiophile "wisdom" has been that the coaxial connection is almost always superior to the optical connection in terms of sound quality. Any thoughts here?
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> 
> Jeff.



1. Yes, but more than likely the video upscaler of the D2v is better than either your TV or the DVR.


2. Better with the component to the D2v - see #1. As stated above - set the box to send the native resolution to the D2v.


3. I have only used the coaxial, so I can't answer this question.


What I have heard from the box manufacturer is that when the software updates occur and the cable box reboots, the HDMI needs a "live" or powered source at the end of the line on one of the specific contacts. They explained that the HDMI requirements are that units in standby should still have the HDMI port active for this contact and untis that don't are not following the HDMI rules. I think they were full of hot air and they just need to remove the part of the programming that locks the unit up when a reboot performs and the unit at the other end of the cable is not turned on.....


In addition to the reboot problem, I have never been able to get audio through the HDMI cable from any of my cable boxes to the D2 or D2v. However, when connecting straight to a TV via HDMI I have no problem with audio.


Although we like to blame the cable box manufacturer, some of the fault may sit with Anthem in their application of the HDMI routine not being fully compatible with the SA cable boxes.


I have reported all the above to Anthem previously.


----------



## Alembicjeff





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16577563
> 
> 
> 1) I tried HDMI to my Display and Coax to my previous AVR. It worked okay, just had to program different imputs on my remote. I decided against that setup with the D2v.
> 
> 
> 2) I use Component/Coax to DV2 and have the 8300HD set to pass through the native resolution. The D2v does a MUCH better job at scaling and the picture is the best I've ever had.
> 
> 
> 3) I used Coax cause it's the only cable I had that was long enough. I've always prefered Coax over Optical. Just me...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16577889
> 
> 
> Optical Digital and Component Digital audio cabling are identical in terms of the signals they carry and the quality of the audio. Use whichever is more convenient for you.
> 
> 
> Bypassing the Anthem for video means you don't get to take advantage of the video processing in the Anthem. This is particularly important for SD channels since the Anthem likely does a better job of de-interlacing and scaling than either your 8300 or your TV. Send Component 480i to the Anthem for SD channels and Component 1080i (and 720p if your box allows you all 3 choices) for HD channels.
> 
> 
> But even for HD channels, running the video through the Anthem allows you to use the video adjustments in the Anthem. These would include picture quality adjustments as well as convenience features like being able to get a letterboxed movie to fill your display screen. In addition, the Anthem will de-interlace 1080i to 1080p and scale 720p or 1080i as necessary to match what your display wants. Really, it is a good idea to run the video through the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16578174
> 
> 
> 1. Yes, but more than likely the video upscaler of the D2v is better than either your TV or the DVR.
> 
> 
> 2. Better with the component to the D2v - see #1. As stated above - set the box to send the native resolution to the D2v.
> 
> 
> 3. I have only used the coaxial, so I can't answer this question.
> 
> 
> What I have heard from the box manufacturer is that when the software updates occur and the cable box reboots, the HDMI needs a "live" or powered source at the end of the line on one of the specific contacts. They explained that the HDMI requirements are that units in standby should still have the HDMI port active for this contact and untis that don't are not following the HDMI rules. I think they were full of hot air and they just need to remove the part of the programming that locks the unit up when a reboot performs and the unit at the other end of the cable is not turned on.....
> 
> 
> In addition to the reboot problem, I have never been able to get audio through the HDMI cable from any of my cable boxes to the D2 or D2v. However, when connecting straight to a TV via HDMI I have no problem with audio.
> 
> 
> Although we like to blame the cable box manufacturer, some of the fault may sit with Anthem in their application of the HDMI routine not being fully compatible with the SA cable boxes.
> 
> 
> I have reported all the above to Anthem previously.




Bob and Facke02: Thank you very much - now I'm really glad I didn't sell those expensive component video cables I have.


Cyclone Mike: I agree with you that "Although we like to blame the cable box manufacturer, some of the fault may sit with Anthem in their application of the HDMI routine not being fully compatible with the SA cable boxes." I'm guessing that Comcast must be one of the largest suppliers of cable boxes in this country and you would think that any pre/pro manufacturer would make certain that their product is compatible via hdmi with the comcast cable boxes.


Jeff.


----------



## usxplong

Well, I did my ARC yesterday and sadly found that my FL tweeter is dead.

Bob, besides the FL tweeter how does the remaining measurements look? Are they good enough? I tried to lower the volume on the d2v before running the ARC but the ARC keeps pushing for 85 db. How can I lower it to 75db? Eventhough the FL tweeter is dead but the sound is absolutely rich and relaxing. The sound stage is so wide that I feel to jump in the tv and join the characters. But I had one problem and that was the sub volume was way too low. I increased it to my taste and became absolutely marvelous.

Bob, please advise me for any improvements/ suggestions. I appreciate it.


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16577842
> 
> 
> If you see moving video, but it is tinted shocking pink, that means the automatic HDMI handshake has gotten confused -- a device is sending YCbCr when the next device is expecting RGB. This isn't supposed to happen of course, but such is life with HDMI.
> 
> 
> The usual fix is to set a specific data format instead of relying on the Automatic setting. For HDMI to HDMI connections that would usually be YCbCr 4:4:4. For HDMI to DVI or DVI to HDMI connections that would usually be Studio RGB.
> 
> 
> In the Anthem you set that in Setup > Video Out for each Video Output Configuration you are using to your display.
> 
> 
> If your FIOS box offers a choice here, set it as well.
> 
> 
> By the way, if the handshake gets confused in the opposite direction then the video is tinted ghastly green.
> 
> 
> Even if you are using Component video from the FIOS box, the HDMI handshake can get confused between the Anthem and the display.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Often, handshake problems are due to cable issues. Make sure the plugs are fully inserted straight into the socket. The weight of the cable can be enough to shift the plug and make for a marginal connection.
> 
> 
> In general, if you have a handshake problem your immediate workaround is to force a new handshake. Switch the Anthem to a different input and back or change the output resolution of the source device and back -- e.g. switching between SD and HD channels if you have the box set that way.
> 
> --Bob



I will try both methods ( warp & Mr. Bob).... thanks for the help.

I can already hear a audio difference between AVM50 to D2v... I don't know if the cause of the difference is due to the new SMX AT screen


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alembicjeff* /forum/post/16578432
> 
> 
> Bob and Facke02: Thank you very much - now I'm really glad I didn't sell those expensive component video cables I have.
> 
> 
> Cyclone Mike: I agree with you that "Although we like to blame the cable box manufacturer, some of the fault may sit with Anthem in their application of the HDMI routine not being fully compatible with the SA cable boxes." I'm guessing that Comcast must be one of the largest suppliers of cable boxes in this country and you would think that any pre/pro manufacturer would make certain that their product is compatible via hdmi with the comcast cable boxes.
> 
> 
> Jeff.



Comcast just distributes the boxes. They are made by Scientific Atlanta (your 8300) and Motorola, both of whom are infamous for poor engineering for these boxes. Since the boxes are rented to Comcast customers, they are kept in Comcast's inventory which means (1) they don't want to spend much for them, and (2) they are loathe to replace them with newer hardware since that means they have to write off the old hardware.


In addition, even when firmware fixes are made available by SA and Motorola, Comcast only doles them out to their customers when they feel like it in each market area -- and not always to the customers advantage. Typically firmware fixes are tied to changes Comcast wants to push out in the higher level software -- adding ads to the Guide and such.


For example, last fall Comcast pushed out new Motorola box Guide software (adding ads) with new firmware that broke HDMI 480i output -- the infamous Big Green Line on the Right problem. Despite getting customer complaints right from the start, they continued pushing out this software into different markets over the course of several months and still haven't pushed out a fix.


They just tell complaining customers to use Component.


The main problem with the software on these boxes is that they were not designed from the start to work through receivers. So they have problems with the extra stuff HDMI requires them to do when there is a receiver in the middle. Initially, the HDMI implementations refused to work AT ALL unless they were directly connected to a TV. Some firmware versions still crash when faced with the number of format choices an AVR will present to them -- more than a typical TV will present.


The HDMI handshake is driven by the source device. Which means it is almost always the case that handshake problems are source device problems. There's only so much a receiver can do to work around such problems.


There is nothing in the HDMI spec that requires the HDMI socket in a receiver to be live when the receiver is powered off unless the receiver supports the optional HDMI device control stuff (CEC). The reboot nonsense in the SA boxes is just poor implementation on their part.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

Also I downloaded v2.06 to AVMv and tonight to the D2v...

I'm going to try the reverse tel stuff see what happens


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16578492
> 
> 
> Well, I did my ARC yesterday and sadly found that my FL tweeter is dead.
> 
> Bob, besides the FL tweeter how does the remaining measurements look? Are they good enough? I tried to lower the volume on the d2v before running the ARC but the ARC keeps pushing for 85 db. How can I lower it to 75db? Eventhough the FL tweeter is dead but the sound is absolutely rich and relaxing. The sound stage is so wide that I feel to jump in the tv and join the characters. But I had one problem and that was the sub volume was way too low. I increased it to my taste and became absolutely marvelous.
> 
> Bob, please advise me for any improvements/ suggestions. I appreciate it.



These screen captures are too small to view. Please repost them in a larger size.


How did you work around your problem with the serial connection (or whatever was blocking your Measurements)?


ARC is likely raising the basic volume level because the volume knob in your subwoofer is set too high. Do this:


1) Go to Setup > Level Calibration and zero out all the lines.


2) Select Manual test mode in the first line


3) Scroll down to the next line (Test Level) and adjust it to measure 75dB SPL using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter ("slow" response, "C" weighting, pointing straight up at seated ear height, held at arm's length) measured at ARC mic position #1. The test tone will be coming from the LF speaker. You have a problem in that speaker but the problem is high enough up in frequency that it shouldn't affect this much. If you are worried about it, temporarily swap LF and RF speaker outputs at the back of the Anthem and do this first adjustment using the tone from RF.


4) Scroll down to either subwoofer line -- which will still be set at zero. Leave that setting at zero but adjust the volume knob in your subwoofer to yield 75dB SPL measured the same way. Ball park settings are good enough for both of these adjustments.


5) Exit out of the Setup menu. Now go redo your ARC Measurements. ARC will use the Test Level setting to adjust the volume of its sweep tones, and the volume knob adjustment you made in the sub insures it is already close to being in balance with the main speakers. ARC will upload precise speaker volume trims for all speakers and the sub when you do the ARC Upload. The Test Level line will stay unchanged for future ARC Measurements.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16578551
> 
> 
> I will try both methods ( warp & Mr. Bob).... thanks for the help.
> 
> I can already hear a audio difference between AVM50 to D2v... I don't know if the cause of the difference is due to the new SMX AT screen



I tried switching my settings 4:4:4, but it didn't fix my problem, even with a new HDMI cable, then after I switched inputs on the back I was problem free.


That was my particular situation, so YMMV.


----------



## Alembicjeff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16578585
> 
> 
> Comcast just distributes the boxes. They are made by Scientific Atlanta (your 8300) and Motorola, both of whom are infamous for poor engineering for these boxes. Since the boxes are rented to Comcast customers, they are kept in Comcast's inventory which means (1) they don't want to spend much for them, and (2) they are loathe to replace them with newer hardware since that means they have to write off the old hardware.
> 
> 
> In addition, even when firmware fixes are made available by SA and Motorola, Comcast only doles them out to their customers when they feel like it in each market area -- and not always to the customers advantage. Typically firmware fixes are tied to changes Comcast wants to push out in the higher level software -- adding ads to the Guide and such.
> 
> 
> For example, last fall Comcast pushed out new Motorola box Guide software (adding ads) with new firmware that broke HDMI 480i output -- the infamous Big Green Line on the Right problem. Despite getting customer complaints right from the start, they continued pushing out this software into different markets over the course of several months and still haven't pushed out a fix.
> 
> 
> They just tell complaining customers to use Component.
> 
> 
> The main problem with the software on these boxes is that they were not designed from the start to work through receivers. So they have problems with the extra stuff HDMI requires them to do when there is a receiver in the middle. Initially, the HDMI implementations refused to work AT ALL unless they were directly connected to a TV. Some firmware versions still crash when faced with the number of format choices an AVR will present to them -- more than a typical TV will present.
> 
> 
> The HDMI handshake is driven by the source device. Which means it is almost always the case that handshake problems are source device problems. There's only so much a receiver can do to work around such problems.
> 
> 
> There is nothing in the HDMI spec that requires the HDMI socket in a receiver to be live when the receiver is powered off unless the receiver supports the optional HDMI device control stuff (CEC). The reboot nonsense in the SA boxes is just poor implementation on their part.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks for the very thorough explanation of the cable box/hdmi problems. Sounds like I owe Anthem an apology.


Jeff.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16578689
> 
> 
> These screen captures are too small to view. Please repost them in a larger size.
> 
> 
> How did you work around your problem with the serial connection (or whatever was blocking your Measurements)?
> 
> 
> ARC is likely raising the basic volume level because the volume knob in your subwoofer is set too high. Do this:
> 
> 
> 1) Go to Setup > Level Calibration and zero out all the lines.
> 
> 
> 2) Select Manual test mode in the first line
> 
> 
> 3) Scroll down to the next line (Test Level) and adjust it to measure 75dB SPL using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter ("slow" response, "C" weighting, pointing straight up at seated ear height, held at arm's length) measured at ARC mic position #1. The test tone will be coming from the LF speaker. You have a problem in that speaker but the problem is high enough up in frequency that it shouldn't affect this much. If you are worried about it, temporarily swap LF and RF speaker outputs at the back of the Anthem and do this first adjustment using the tone from RF.
> 
> 
> 4) Scroll down to either subwoofer line -- which will still be set at zero. Leave that setting at zero but adjust the volume knob in your subwoofer to yield 75dB SPL measured the same way. Ball park settings are good enough for both of these adjustments.
> 
> 
> 5) Exit out of the Setup menu. Now go redo your ARC Measurements. ARC will use the Test Level setting to adjust the volume of its sweep tones, and the volume knob adjustment you made in the sub insures it is already close to being in balance with the main speakers. ARC will upload precise speaker volume trims for all speakers and the sub when you do the ARC Upload. The Test Level line will stay unchanged for future ARC Measurements.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I purchased the Keyspan usb to serial adapter you suggested and works great. I also ordered a new tweeter which was about $65. Luckily the dealer is in my location so I will receive it today and install it tonight then rerun the ARC as you suggested. Attached are the bigger scale of my ARC results. I appreciate your inputs.


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/16577623
> 
> 
> When you say the D2v "does a MUCH better job at scaling" are you comparing that to the D2?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David



Much better then the 8300HD and 60" Kuro Elite display. I had a Pioneer AVR prior to the D2v and it wouldn't scale or transcode Component to HDMI. I connected the 8300 directly to the display.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16577889
> 
> 
> Send Component 480i to the Anthem for SD channels and Component 1080i (and 720p if your box allows you all 3 choices) for HD channels.



Bob, how do you do this?


I believe you are using a Comcast/Motorola box - so am I.


I thought there was only one output option on the setup menus of these boxes.


How are you making a differentiation for SD / HD?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16578865
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I purchased the Keyspan usb to serial adapter you suggested and works great. I also ordered a new tweeter which was about $65. Luckily the dealer is in my location so I will receive it today and install it tonight then rerun the ARC as you suggested. Attached are the bigger scale of my ARC results. I appreciate your inputs.



OK, I can just read those. Even bigger would be better next time you post new results.


Your sub is good down to about 30Hz which is pretty average for home theater subs. There are subs that can go deeper into the subsonics. Just something to keep in mind next time you are thinking about upgrading.


All of your main speakers are showing weakness around 15KHz which is typically the result of pointing problems. And of course LF has the tweeter problem you already know about (Richard Syndrome!).


ARC can't fully correct for that without putting too much strain on the speakers and amps.


Speakers are directional in the treble and most speakers have poorer dispersal of high frequencies in the vertical direction than in the horizontal. So before you do your next set of Measurements, see what you can do about repointing all your speakers other than the sub. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear heigh, pay particular attention to the vertical pointing.


Other things that can affect treble are the grill cloth and any mounting hardware for it that might be in front of the tweeter. In addition, make sure the tip of the ARC mic is not adjacent to any surfaces that might add reflections or block sound getting to it -- chair backs for example. Raise the mic tip a couple inches to clear a chair back or shift it about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from a chair back.


You LF/RF speakers are putting out too much bass in the 50Hz-100Hz range. Center shows a bit of the same at 50Hz, but not so dramatic. ARC has mostly corrected that stuff. You've got a residual error at 125Hz in LF.


Check the settings on LF/RF and possibly C to see if you can tone down their bass output a bit. The may have a frequency response setting or they may have a bass port you should close. If you can tidy up their Measured curves down there, ARC won't have to do so much work fixing that and can come up with a generally cleaner solution for you.


If there is no such adjustment on them. Try shifting them a few inches further away from the wall/corner behind them.


Your feeling that bass is weak post-ARC is likely just that you've gotten used to what LF/RF and C sound like uncorrected -- i.e., you've gotten used to too much bass just below mid-range and too little bass in the subsonics.


Another approach to taming the Measured curves for these speakers would be adding some bass traps on the wall/corner behind them. You've even got a spike at 50Hz in Sub which suggests you have a room resonance there that bass traps would help tame (ARC has corrected this for Sub). The 50-65Hz range carries a lot of the "typical" bass in movies, so a room peak there or having the speakers set to produce too much bass there will have a disproportionate impact on the bass you hear.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16579218
> 
> 
> Bob, how do you do this?
> 
> 
> I believe you are using a Comcast/Motorola box - so am I.
> 
> 
> I thought there was only one output option on the setup menus of these boxes.
> 
> 
> How are you making a differentiation for SD / HD?



The Motorola boxes used by Comcast allow a separate output resolution for SD and for HD -- but only one choice for HD. (I don't know how the SA boxes work for this).


For the Motorola box, use its remote to turn it off. Then press Menu on that remote and you will get to the special output menu. In the lines at the top, tell it you want 1080i for the primary resolution and 480i for the "480i override" resolution.


Press Menu again to save those settings, and then Power to turn the box back on. You'll get 480i for SD channels and 1080i for HD channels.

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16579316
> 
> 
> The Motorola boxes used by Comcast allow a separate output resolution for SD and for HD -- but only one choice for HD. (I don't know how the SA boxes work for this).
> 
> 
> --Bob



My SA8300 by Brighthouse allows me to select all possible resolutions for output. So if I select 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i, it will output those resolutions unprocessed. That's the only good thing about this box...


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16579316
> 
> 
> The Motorola boxes used by Comcast allow a separate output resolution for SD and for HD -- but only one choice for HD. (I don't know how the SA boxes work for this).
> 
> 
> For the Motorola box, use its remote to turn it off. Then press Menu on that remote and you will get to the special output menu. In the lines at the top, tell it you want 1080i for the primary resolution and 480i for the "480i override" resolution.
> 
> 
> Press Menu again to save those settings, and then Power to turn the box back on. You'll get 480i for SD channels and 1080i for HD channels.
> 
> --Bob



Great, thanks!! I know the options you mean but didn't realise thats what they meant!


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16579271
> 
> 
> OK, I can just read those. Even bigger would be better next time you post new results.
> 
> 
> Your sub is good down to about 30Hz which is pretty average for home theater subs. There are subs that can go deeper into the subsonics. Just something to keep in mind next time you are thinking about upgrading.
> 
> 
> All of your main speakers are showing weakness around 15KHz which is typically the result of pointing problems. And of course LF has the tweeter problem you already know about (Richard Syndrome!).
> 
> 
> ARC can't fully correct for that without putting too much strain on the speakers and amps.
> 
> 
> Speakers are directional in the treble and most speakers have poorer dispersal of high frequencies in the vertical direction than in the horizontal. So before you do your next set of Measurements, see what you can do about repointing all your speakers other than the sub. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear heigh, pay particular attention to the vertical pointing.
> 
> 
> Other things that can affect treble are the grill cloth and any mounting hardware for it that might be in front of the tweeter. In addition, make sure the tip of the ARC mic is not adjacent to any surfaces that might add reflections or block sound getting to it -- chair backs for example. Raise the mic tip a couple inches to clear a chair back or shift it about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from a chair back.
> 
> 
> You LF/RF speakers are putting out too much bass in the 50Hz-100Hz range. Center shows a bit of the same at 50Hz, but not so dramatic. ARC has mostly corrected that stuff. You've got a residual error at 125Hz in LF.
> 
> 
> Check the settings on LF/RF and possibly C to see if you can tone down their bass output a bit. The may have a frequency response setting or they may have a bass port you should close. If you can tidy up their Measured curves down there, ARC won't have to do so much work fixing that and can come up with a generally cleaner solution for you.
> 
> 
> If there is no such adjustment on them. Try shifting them a few inches further away from the wall/corner behind them.
> 
> 
> Your feeling that bass is weak post-ARC is likely just that you've gotten used to what LF/RF and C sound like uncorrected -- i.e., you've gotten used to too much bass just below mid-range and too little bass in the subsonics.
> 
> 
> Another approach to taming the Measured curves for these speakers would be adding some bass traps on the wall/corner behind them. You've even got a spike at 50Hz in Sub which suggests you have a room resonance there that bass traps would help tame (ARC has corrected this for Sub). The 50-65Hz range carries a lot of the "typical" bass in movies, so a room peak there or having the speakers set to produce too much bass there will have a disproportionate impact on the bass you hear.
> 
> --Bob



Thnaks Bob. I really appreciate it.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Setting passthrough mode in the setup menu isn't enough. This is also needed:


1. Turn the box power off but leave the rest of the system on and the cable box input selected.


2. On the box front panel press and hold Guide and Info together until on-screen instructions appear.


3. Select Advanced and follow the on-screen instructions to select 480i standard, 720p, and 1080i. Do not select the other three choices.


----------



## zuesmaximus

My first run of arc with the D2v...
Attachment 144356 

Attachment 144357 

Attachment 144358 


I used the spl meter, set output to 75 but charges show off the wall...

sounds pretty good for the first run. Much improved sound than the AVM50


----------



## dseliger

Can anyone point me in the direction on creating a verticle scretch setting on my D2v?


I have preset options in there but they dont do anything (anamorphic, etc)...if i go to custom i can get it to work but i was hoping to set the existing ones properly.


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/16581444
> 
> 
> Can anyone point me in the direction on creating a verticle scretch setting on my D2v?
> 
> 
> I have preset options in there but they dont do anything (anamorphic, etc)...if i go to custom i can get it to work but i was hoping to set the existing ones properly.



At least with the D2, the custom settings are the correct way to do this. Just select custom and then define the correct number of lines.


If you use the RS232 port to control it along with this device... http://www.industrologic.com/ir2desc.htm and a universal remote, you can define buttons on the remote to instantly take you to the correct number of lines for the desired aspect ratio.


Monte


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/16581444
> 
> 
> Can anyone point me in the direction on creating a verticle scretch setting on my D2v?
> 
> 
> I have preset options in there but they dont do anything (anamorphic, etc)...if i go to custom i can get it to work but i was hoping to set the existing ones properly.



Sure. Check out the Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling post links found in the first post of this thread.


Basically you define a Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Custom Crop which outlines the portion of the content you are interested in, and then you use Video Source Adjust > Scale Out > Anamorphic to uniformly stretch that shape as necessary to match the shape of your video output as specified in Setup > Video Out.


Also be aware that there is apparently a bug for the D2v and AVM 50v with Component video input where changing between Source Setup entries that are otherwise identical, so as to get a new set of Video Source Adjust settings, has a bug that a Custom Crop may not get properly applied when you enter the Source that has it set, and an Edges ON setting may not get properly applied when you leave that one for another Source with Edges ON set.


This bug only seems to affect Component video input. If you've been bitten by it, the key symptom is that toggling the Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Edges ON/OFF setting cures it. Anthem is working on this one.


So if you are using Component video in the D2v or AVM 50v, and a Custom Crop or Edges ON setting doesn't seem to be doing what it should be doing when you select that Source, try toggling Edges ON/OFF and back and see if that gets you the expected result.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16581003
> 
> 
> My first run of arc with the D2v...
> Attachment 144356
> 
> Attachment 144357
> 
> Attachment 144358
> 
> 
> I used the spl meter, set output to 75 but charges show off the wall...
> 
> sounds pretty good for the first run. Much improved sound than the AVM50



You are in pretty good shape except that the basic volume level of your ARC solution is too high as you've already spotted (90dB instead of 75dB) and you also have weak treble in your LS/RS speakers. Center is also a little weak in treble.


Usually getting a basic volume level this high means you have not fully followed the prescription for setting the levels before your ARC Measurement pass.


Re-read what I described in post #22062 above. When you are done with this the only non-zero entry in Setup > Level Calibration will be the Test Level line (Noise Level for D2 and AVM 50 users). And you will have made two different 75dB adjustments -- first for LF using the Test Level line and then for Subwoofer using only the volume knob in the subwoofer (and with Test Level as you just set it). Then you go do your ARC Measurements and ARC Uploads the precise volume trims.


If you believe you have done this correctly and are still getting 90dB as your basic volume level, go into Setup > Level Calibration and report the speaker volume trims that ARC has Uploaded for you.


What's going on is that some speaker is too loud so ARC is raising the other speakers so as to keep the full set of speakers within the range ARC has available for speaker volume trim. The usual suspect here is that the volume knob on your Subwoofer is set too high. You'll see a negative volume trim for Sub and a positive volume trim for the other speakers trying to get them all into balance.


---------------------------------------------


Also make sure you've disabled the internal crossover in your sub. If you can't disable it, crank it up to the highest frequency setting to get it out of the way as much as possible. The Measured curve for your sub looks like it has an 60Hz internal crossover still engaged. If you make a change in this you will need to re-Measure for ARC.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

yeah I found it alittle strange since the jl sub was already corrected from my previous arc test with the old avm50. I replace the avm50 with the D2v ran new measurements and when I looked at results I was surprise to see volume at 90 and above...

I also checked the settings that were uploaded to speakers, most were around a +3db and the sub was -2.5db....strange

I'm going to do it over tonight.

Funny thing it sounds pretty good. Is it not a good idea to have volume around 90db, I know in the manual it states for it to be at 75dbs


----------



## J. FRICANO

Hello All,

I am considering replacing my current NHT 1.5 speakers as my surrounds, with Paradigm ADP3's to compliment my new S4's and C3 Center. These are "Adapted Dipole Speakers" as opposed to direct radiators. Will ARC effectively deal with these and do I need to tell the D2 that I am useing Dipoles in the set up before running measurements? Are direct radiators a better option in a 5.1 speaker set up for movies as well as music multichannel use for surrounds, or the Paradigm dipoles. The surrounds are located approx. 3 feet back from the listening position on the wall behind them. There is also a "TV" Window on that same wall leading into a kitchen. Any opinions on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time, John.


----------



## Warpdrv

Hey John..... there are settings in the speakers setup for dipoles or direct.... I have the ADP's in my sig setup, but use them mostly for 2 channel audio or movies, I don't prefer them for multichannel music myself, I use all direct radiating in my other setup and its far better for multichannel listening.... If you can do it that way...


surrounds for a 5.1 setup should be on the sides of the LP instead of behind, unless you absolutely cannot locate them elsewhere....


But yes the D2 will have that option for either product...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16583720
> 
> 
> yeah I found it alittle strange since the jl sub was already corrected from my previous arc test with the old avm50. I replace the avm50 with the D2v ran new measurements and when I looked at results I was surprise to see volume at 90 and above...
> 
> I also checked the settings that were uploaded to speakers, most were around a +3db and the sub was -2.5db....strange
> 
> I'm going to do it over tonight.
> 
> Funny thing it sounds pretty good. Is it not a good idea to have volume around 90db, I know in the manual it states for it to be at 75dbs



Well it's not all that serious a problem -- you'll just be using it with the volume knob turned down 15dB.


It's more serious if the level comes in low since that may indicate ARC won't hear everything it ought to hear during the test sweeps.


Anyway, try it again from scratch as described and see what you get. Double check your sub wiring to make sure you didn't accidentally hook up to a high level input instead of a line level input or something like that.


Oh and make sure you are using the ARC mic that came with your new D2v and NOT the one you were using with your AVM 50. The mic calibration file is unique to each mic and it is keyed to the serial number of the Anthem. So if you use the ARC mic that came with the AVM 50 you will be using the wrong mic calibration data (the data that came with the D2v) and the results will be screwy.


The two licensing/calibration files installed with the ARC application in Windows > Program Files have names made up of your D2v serial number and the serial number of the ARC mic that came with your D2v. Double check that this is the ARC mic you are using.


The ARC application will warn you if you are not using an ARC mic, but it can't detect whether you are using the CORRECT ARC mic.


---------------------------------


ETA: Also, replace the batteries in your SPL meter before you set things up prior to the next ARC Measurement. They don't last forever.


It is normal for the preliminary settings you make for the D2v to differ from those you make for the AVM 50 -- i.e., the Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and possibly even the subwoofer volume knob setting.


If you switched between RCA and XLR speaker outputs when putting in the D2v, that can also explain a level difference that needs to be adjusted out in Test Level and with the subwoofer volume knob.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/16584045
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I am considering replacing my current NHT 1.5 speakers as my surrounds, with Paradigm ADP3's to compliment my new S4's and C3 Center. These are "Adapted Dipole Speakers" as opposed to direct radiators. Will ARC effectively deal with these and do I need to tell the D2 that I am useing Dipoles in the set up before running measurements? Are direct radiators a better option in a 5.1 speaker set up for movies as well as music multichannel use for surrounds, or the Paradigm dipoles. The surrounds are located approx. 3 feet back from the listening position on the wall behind them. There is also a "TV" Window on that same wall leading into a kitchen. Any opinions on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time, John.



ARC will work just fine with either Dipole or Direct surround speakers.


You do need to specify which you have in Setup, but all that does is alter the way the speaker distance settings are applied for those speakers. (Since Dipoles work by bouncing the sound off the walls, the distance setting is handled differently -- see the Manual.) This doesn't alter what ARC does during Measurement or during normal listening.


I've never been a big fan of dipole surrounds myself, but many people swear by them. They work best for movies and not so well for music.

--Bob


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16584276
> 
> 
> ARC will work just fine with either Dipole or Direct surround speakers.
> 
> 
> You do need to specify which you have in Setup, but all that does is alter the way the speaker distance settings are applied for those speakers. (Since Dipoles work by bouncing the sound off the walls, the distance setting is handled differently -- see the Manual.) This doesn't alter what ARC does during Measurement or during normal listening.
> 
> 
> I've never been a big fan of dipole surrounds myself, but many people swear by them. They work best for movies and not so well for music.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob and Wrpdrv for your replies. Guess I will look at new direct radiators as I have no option, other than useing the wall behind my seated position, for the surrounds. John.


----------



## Nicoff

I am connecting the Oppo BDP-83 DVD player to my D2. I noticed that several people here have the same set up.

Should I let the D2 do all the video processing (by choosing Direct Source as the output in the Oppo) or am I better off letting the Oppo do the processing?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16584822
> 
> 
> I am connecting the Oppo BDP-83 DVD player to my D2. I noticed that several people here have the same set up.
> 
> Should I let the D2 do all the video processing (by choosing Direct Source as the output in the Oppo) or am I better off letting the Oppo do the processing?



The Oppo does an excellent job of video processing so you've really got the choice of doing it either way based on your personal preference and convenience features of one setup vs. another. For example, many of the Oppo's video processor adjustments (e.g. Y/C Delay) don't function in Source Direct since that bypasses the video processor.


I'm currently using the Oppo with my D2v using explicit 1080p resolution for everything and the "16:9 Wide/Auto" aspect ratio mode.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus

YES, i'M USING ALL THE CORRECT ITEMS FOR THE D2V. I DOWNLOADED THE DISC THAT CAME WITH THE KIT. I ONLY USE ONE TYPE OF CONNECTION THAT BEING XLR CABLES...

RADIO SHACK SPL METER IS ABOUT 2 MONTHS OLD BUT I WILL REPLACE BATTERY WHICH IT DIDN'T COME WITH (9VOLT)...

I WILL RERUN MY RESULTS TONIGHT


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16585034
> 
> 
> The Oppo does an excellent job of video processing so you've really got the choice of doing it either way based on your personal preference and convenience features of one setup vs. another. For example, many of the Oppo's video processor adjustments (e.g. Y/C Delay) don't function in Source Direct since that bypasses the video processor.
> 
> 
> I'm currently using the Oppo with my D2v using explicit 1080p resolution for everything and the "16:9 Wide/Auto" aspect ratio mode.
> 
> --Bob



What about the audio side? (I just received my Oppo as well)


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16582281
> 
> 
> Sure. Check out the Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling post links found in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> Basically you define a Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Custom Crop which outlines the portion of the content you are interested in, and then you use Video Source Adjust > Scale Out > Anamorphic to uniformly stretch that shape as necessary to match the shape of your video output as specified in Setup > Video Out.
> 
> 
> Also be aware that there is apparently a bug for the D2v and AVM 50v with Component video input where changing between Source Setup entries that are otherwise identical, so as to get a new set of Video Source Adjust settings, has a bug that a Custom Crop may not get properly applied when you enter the Source that has it set, and an Edges ON setting may not get properly applied when you leave that one for another Source with Edges ON set.
> 
> 
> This bug only seems to affect Component video input. If you've been bitten by it, the key symptom is that toggling the Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Edges ON/OFF setting cures it. Anthem is working on this one.
> 
> 
> So if you are using Component video in the D2v or AVM 50v, and a Custom Crop or Edges ON setting doesn't seem to be doing what it should be doing when you select that Source, try toggling Edges ON/OFF and back and see if that gets you the expected result.
> 
> --Bob



My thanks once again! I'll play with it this weekend.


Everything i use is HDMI except the Wii so i shouldn't run into the component bug i don't think.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/16585876
> 
> 
> What about the audio side? (I just received my Oppo as well)



For the D2 use HDMI LPCM. For the D2v use either HDMI LPCM or HDMI Bitstream -- I use both for testing and haven't found any quality difference.


Be sure you leave Secondary Audio OFF unless you actually want to use such a feature from a disc.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2v / AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.06b now up on Password Protected Download Page*


New "test" firmware V2.06b for the D2v and AVM 50v has appeared this evening on Anthem's password protected download page.


Change notes from the prior "official" version, V2.06, read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.06b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for a DSP problem that affected the AVM 50v with 44.1 kHz input.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.06a beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for popping that began in v2.06 with Toshiba XA2 as source.
> 
> 
> 2. New VXP video processor code.



Note that a new D2v installer is included as well, even though the only change specifies the AVM 50v.


As usual, be prepared for surprises from "test" software. Back up your settings. You can always roll back to "official" V2.06 if necessary.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I installed firmware 2.06b just in case their was some fix in the DSP by accident, for the popping/crackling for my hddvd player, but no luck. Did not test anything else so not sure if their are any surprises.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I installed V2.06b as well. No problems, no surprises. So far I've not found any differences.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It looks like V2.06b as gone a step backwards on the problem where 2.0 channel input to PLIIx-Movie only produces output on 2.1 speakers instead of 5.1.


V2.06 had apparently fixed the problem for the specific case when the input was 2.0 HDMI LPCM 48KHz (although the problem still exists for 44.1KHz input as from CDs), but with V2.06b I had several instances of the problem this evening using the Oppo BDP-83 (playing "extras" content from "Gigi" Blu-Ray).


As usual, the workaround is to change the audio mode to anything else and back to PLIIx-Movie.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

V2.06b has another problem. I'm getting loss of audio from my Comcast HD/DVR. Usually this can be fixed by switching the D2v to another input and back, but I had one case where I had to power cycle the D2v.


I've not yet found a reliable way to reproduce this problem but it appears to be related to the input changing from DD5.1 to DD2.0, and possibly in conjunction with the video changing from 1080i to 480i.


This is not an HDMI problem as I have the Comcast box hooked up for Component video and Optical Digital audio.


Anthem has been alerted.


ETA: At this point I see no advantage in "test" V2.06a or V2.06b over "official" V2.06. And "test" V2.06b at least has new problems. So unless you are installing it to help Anthem find problems, or at Anthem's request to help test a bug fix targeted to your system, I can't recommend going to V2.06b. If you have already installed it, and if you too are having new problems with it, you can roll back to "official" V2.06 -- downloadable from Anthem's public download pages. Do the re-install of "official" V2.06 the same way you would do any new firmware install.


ETA 2: I just spent an hour or so trying to reproduce the audio problem from the Comcast box and could not make it fail this time. Very strange.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob. I fixed my tweeter and run the ARC again. I adjusted the volume as you suggested. Thanks. After redoing the ARC I got the same problem with freq. around 15000. I think it is partly due to my speakers and amp that are laidback a little with high freq. I don't know. But the ARC still lowered my sub by 7 db. At this level feels like there is no base and no LFE. By definition of Dobly the sub's LFE should by about 7 db higher than the other speakers to produce the original sound. So I did raise the sub a little and perfect. Attached are my new ARC results. Would you make your suggestions. Also I have some questions:

1. Since ARC deals with Cutoff not X-Over, does adjusting cross over make any difference?

2. Can I make base & treble adjustments for each input or is it global?

3. When ARC assigns cut of FL 60 and the sub 120, does this mean that the base will be redirected twice between 60 & 120 between FL and sub?

4. How can I adjust the speaker delays based on their distances or is done automatically by d2v?

Thanks Bob. I really appreciate it.

 

1.doc 134.5k . file

 

2.doc 133k . file

 

3.doc 48k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16591575
> 
> 
> Hello Bob. I fixed my tweeter and run the ARC again. I adjusted the volume as you suggested. Thanks. After redoing the ARC I got the same problem with freq. around 15000. I think it is partly due to my speakers and amp that are laidback a little with high freq. I don't know. But the ARC still lowered my sub by 7 db. At this level feels like there is no base and no LFE. By definition of Dobly the sub's LFE should by about 7 db higher than the other speakers to produce the original sound. So I did raise the sub a little and perfect. Attached are my new ARC results. Would you make your suggestions. Also I have some questions:
> 
> 1. Since ARC deals with Cutoff not X-Over, does adjusting cross over make any difference?
> 
> 2. Can I make base & treble adjustments for each input or is it global?
> 
> 3. When ARC assigns cut of FL 60 and the sub 120, does this mean that the base will be redirected twice between 60 & 120 between FL and sub?
> 
> 4. How can I adjust the speaker delays based on their distances or is done automatically by d2v?
> 
> Thanks Bob. I really appreciate it.



The high frequency problem could indeed be your speakers or amps (I think it is more likely it is the speakers). As you can see, the Measured curves are showing dips in excess of 12dB up there which is a lot. ARC will only correct about half of that to avoid straining the amps and tweeters. If you have in wall installations with custom grills, the choice of grill and its mounting may also be a factor. I take it you've already done what you can with speaker pointing.


You should probably consider auditioning some replacement speakers. Start with LF/RF and C as they carry the most important high frequency content. There was a time years ago when companies deliberately designed surround speakers to be weak in treble since that made them less expensive and there wasn't that much treble content in movie surround. But that's changed.


------------------------------------------------


The "cutoff" setting controls how ARC rolls off its application of Room Correction. The "crossover" setting controls bass steering. In ARC V2.x, the cutoff and crossover values are kept the same by ARC for the main speakers but ARC can use different values for the subwoofer. If you look in Setup > Speaker Calibration you will likely find ARC has Uploaded a crossover for the Sub which is significantly lower than the 120Hz it is using for the cutoff.


I strongly advise you don't go tweaking the cutoff/crossover choices ARC has made.


------------------------------------------------


There is no need to boost bass for Dolby or any other audio tracks. ARC produces the correct levels for bass output. You may be getting confused by write ups discussing how LFE is recorded 10dB low and needs to be boosted by 10dB before going to the speakers. The Anthems do that already -- whether or not you are using ARC.


I suspect the bass deficit you are hearing is a combination of two things:


1) Your uncorrected setup has real problems in producing too much bass in the 50-100Hz range. This is likely a combo of room resonances (the 50Hz peak looks like that) and LF/RF/C speakers that just emphasize bass a bit too much. LF/RF in particular run a good 10dB too hot in bass. That's a lot (6dB SPL is equivalent to doubling the volume). ARC has corrected that but if you are used to how the uncorrected setup sounded, the ARC result may sound weak to you until you have more listening time with it.


2) Your sub is good down to about 30Hz, which is OK but means you are missing out on the bulk of the subsonics. By boosting sub you bring the subsonics (the bass you feel rather than hear) back up but of course you are also putting the sub out of balance for the rest of the bass. Since bass is being steered to the sub from the main speakers, boosting sub will also boost that steered bass which will make it sound more like your UNcorrected setup -- i.e., too much bass. So boosting sub gives you some visceral bass and brings things more in line with what you are used to from the uncorrected setup. BUT THAT IS WRONG.


The correct solution to get the visceral bass is to replace the subwoofer with one that can naturally go deeper.


Meanwhile, if I'm right that you have some pretty nasty room resonances -- particularly at 50Hz -- some bass traps on the walls/corners will also be a big help.


Right now your sub is showing a 15dB Measured swing between 50 and 70 HZ. That's enormous. ARC has tamed the peak at 50Hz but you still have about a 4dB residual error at 70Hz. Presuming that really is a room response problem, bass traps could tame that quite a bit and allow ARC to come up with a cleaner solution.


-----------------------------------------------------


Using the setup ARC Uploads for you -- unmodified -- play a test disc that puts out real LFE such as the "Multi-Channels Level & Balance" from the Audio Tests on "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray. Use your SPL meter at ARC mic position #1 ("slow" response, "C" weighting). I think you will see that ARC really does have the sub level properly matched with the levels for the other speakers.


By the way, I'm assuming you are running the V2.06 firmware, or at least the V2.04 firmware. The original D2v and AVM 50v firmware DID have a bass levels problem, but that's long been fixed.


------------------------------------------------------


I don't use the Bass/Treble controls myself, but my recollection is that they are global (changes apply to all sources).


-------------------------------------------------------


On your last question, you must manually enter the speaker distances yourself (Setup > Listener Position). Since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time changes in the distance settings don't alter what ARC hears so you can make these distance settings either before or after you do your ARC setup.


The other important manual adjustment you need to make is to set Polarity and Phase for your subwoofer correctly so that its output doesn't cancel with the output of the main speakers in the region of the crossover frequencies where they are both playing the same content. See the post links in the first post of this thread for advice on how to set Polarity/Phase. If you only have one subwoofer, this again is something you can do either before or after doing your ARC setup.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16591898
> 
> 
> The high frequency problem could indeed be your speakers or amps (I think it is more likely it is the speakers). As you can see, the Measured curves are showing dips in excess of 12dB up there which is a lot. ARC will only correct about half of that to avoid straining the amps and tweeters. If you have in wall installations with custom grills, the choice of grill and its mounting may also be a factor. I take it you've already done what you can with speaker pointing.
> 
> 
> You should probably consider auditioning some replacement speakers. Start with LF/RF and C as they carry the most important high frequency content. There was a time years ago when companies deliberately designed surround speakers to be weak in treble since that made them less expensive and there wasn't that much treble content in movie surround. But that's changed.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The "cutoff" setting controls how ARC rolls off its application of Room Correction. The "crossover" setting controls bass steering. In ARC V2.x, the cutoff and crossover values are kept the same by ARC for the main speakers but ARC can use different values for the subwoofer. If you look in Setup > Speaker Calibration you will likely find ARC has Uploaded a crossover for the Sub which is significantly lower than the 120Hz it is using for the cutoff.
> 
> 
> I strongly advise you don't go tweaking the cutoff/crossover choices ARC has made.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> There is no need to boost bass for Dolby or any other audio tracks. ARC produces the correct levels for bass output. You may be getting confused by write ups discussing how LFE is recorded 10dB low and needs to be boosted by 10dB before going to the speakers. The Anthems do that already -- whether or not you are using ARC.
> 
> 
> I suspect the bass deficit you are hearing is a combination of two things:
> 
> 
> 1) Your uncorrected setup has real problems in producing too much bass in the 50-100Hz range. This is likely a combo of room resonances (the 50Hz peak looks like that) and LF/RF/C speakers that just emphasize bass a bit too much. LF/RF in particular run a good 10dB too hot in bass. That's a lot (6dB SPL is equivalent to doubling the volume). ARC has corrected that but if you are used to how the uncorrected setup sounded, the ARC result may sound weak to you until you have more listening time with it.
> 
> 
> 2) Your sub is good down to about 30Hz, which is OK but means you are missing out on the bulk of the subsonics. By boosting sub you bring the subsonics (the bass you feel rather than hear) back up but of course you are also putting the sub out of balance for the rest of the bass. Since bass is being steered to the sub from the main speakers, boosting sub will also boost that steered bass which will make it sound more like your UNcorrected setup -- i.e., too much bass. So boosting sub gives you some visceral bass and brings things more in line with what you are used to from the uncorrected setup. BUT THAT IS WRONG.
> 
> 
> The correct solution to get the visceral bass is to replace the subwoofer with one that can naturally go deeper.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, if I'm right that you have some pretty nasty room resonances -- particularly at 50Hz -- some bass traps on the walls/corners will also be a big help.
> 
> 
> Right now your sub is showing a 15dB Measured swing between 50 and 70 HZ. That's enormous. ARC has tamed the peak at 50Hz but you still have about a 4dB residual error at 70Hz. Presuming that really is a room response problem, bass traps could tame that quite a bit and allow ARC to come up with a cleaner solution.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Using the setup ARC Uploads for you -- unmodified -- play a test disc that puts out real LFE such as the "Multi-Channels Level & Balance" from the Audio Tests on "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray. Use your SPL meter at ARC mic position #1 ("slow" response, "C" weighting). I think you will see that ARC really does have the sub level properly matched with the levels for the other speakers.
> 
> 
> By the way, I'm assuming you are running the V2.06 firmware, or at least the V2.04 firmware. The original D2v and AVM 50v firmware DID have a bass levels problem, but that's long been fixed.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I don't use the Bass/Treble controls myself, but my recollection is that they are global (changes apply to all sources).
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> On your last question, you must manually enter the speaker distances yourself (Setup > Listener Position). Since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time changes in the distance settings don't alter what ARC hears so you can make these distance settings either before or after you do your ARC setup.
> 
> 
> The other important manual adjustment you need to make is to set Polarity and Phase for your subwoofer correctly so that its output doesn't cancel with the output of the main speakers in the region of the crossover frequencies where they are both playing the same content. See the post links in the first post of this thread for advice on how to set Polarity/Phase. If you only have one subwoofer, this again is something you can do either before or after doing your ARC setup.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Much appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" D2v / AVM 50v Firmware V2.07 now on Password Protected Download Page*


Another day, another firmware! "Test" firmware V2.07 for the D2v and AVM 50v has appeared this evening on Anthem's password protected download page. It looks like Anthem is tidying up the bug fixes they added over the past week so that they can go official with this version fairly soon, perhaps even this weekend.


Change notes for changes from the current "official" version, V2.06, now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for popping that began in v2.06 with Toshiba XA2 as source.
> 
> 
> 2. New VXP video processor code.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for a DSP problem that affected the AVM 50v with 44.1 kHz input.



So there are no new changes listed compared to "test" V2.06a/V2.06b. Nick tells me the important fixes here are the DSP fix for AVM 50v customers and the XA2 compatibility fix for D2v/AVM50v customers who have that player. I still have no info on what might have changed in the VXP (video processor) code, but Nick tells me that D2v customers who don't happen to have the XA2 player needn't be in any rush to move to V2.07, so the changes either aren't significant or perhaps they are in features that aren't really official yet such as the reverse telecine stuff.


-----------------------------------------


Firmware V2.04 has also reappeared on the password protected download page. Usually this is done so that some specific customer can roll back to the older version to confirm whether a problem being diagnosed is really due to new firmware or not.


-----------------------------------------


For folks who happen to have one of Anthem's new projectors, be advised that new firmware for the projectors has also appeared this afternoon on the password protected download page (in "Link 7").


Change notes read:



> Quote:
> Changes:
> 
> 
> v1.1
> 
> 
> 1. Improved color management system.
> 
> 
> This update will erase all projector settings - record settings that you want to keep before updating.



ETA: I just checked the public download links for V2.06 firmware, and as of the moment they still yield V2.06....

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Installed V. 2.07 and the popping from the XA2 is still there. Will test some other discs but I'm not confident it will make a difference. I did this with my pj off so I wasn't able to test anything else.

John


----------



## zuesmaximus

today just finished watching WALL E again on new D2v with v2.06. on samsung BD player when I pause movie a load hissing noise thru all speakers and had to power down due to pink color over moving screen and no audio. Very bad handshakes. I first tryed switching inputs but to no result. Finally had to power down Anthem which finally corrected problem. Hopefully Anthem will have no software to correct this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16593569
> 
> 
> today just finished watching WALL E again on new D2v with v2.06. on samsung BD player when I pause movie a load hissing noise thru all speakers and had to power down due to pink color over moving screen and no audio. Very bad handshakes. I first tryed switching inputs but to no result. Finally had to power down Anthem which finally corrected problem. Hopefully Anthem will have no software to correct this.



Send Anthem tech support an email with the details, including the model number of your Samsung BD player and whatever firmware version it is running.


The combination of shocking pink video and loss of HDMI audio suggests the player suddenly presented itself as a DVI device to the Anthem.


Does it happen with just that disc? Wall-E is a BD-Java disc which means that things like Pause are actually implemented in the BD-Java code on the disc rather than the player being in control. If you have problems with other BD-Java discs but not with discs that don't use BD-Java then there may be a firmware problem in the player's BD-Java implementation.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

So far I haven't spotted any differences in "test" V2.07 compared to V2.06b -- not really a surprise. Once again, there doesn't seem to be any pressing reason to move from "official" V2.06 to "test" V2.07, particularly for D2v owners.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Hopefully some of the XA2 owners in this thread might try the new firmware to see if they still have the same issues.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I suppose it's also possible that whatever change they made to help support the XA2 might help ZUESMAXIMUS' problem with his Samsung BD player -- assuming his problem is repeatable.

--Bob


----------



## thevendetta

Hey Bob...


I saw earlier you said you didn't notice any difference between bitstreaming and using LPCM from your oppo... I on the other hand noticed a HUGE difference when switching back and fourth using WALLE. The soundstage got much bigger and deeper when bitstreaming... I had a buddy here to witness it and he agreed. I wonder what would be different.. Secondary audio is off and all of the settings are correct. Also, did the AppleTV thing get fixed with the new Official Firmware? I haven't been able to try it yet...


thanks,

nick


----------



## zuesmaximus

I watched the entire movie without a hitch but I noticed that the D2v was Dolby PLIIxMovie (in the Samsung setting were at LPCM) and WallE disc DTS

so I was thinking that I should see DTS on the D2v.

So I changed the setting on the Samsung to bitstream Audiophile, when I started WallE again to see if D2v decode DTS which it did. that's when I got the shocking pink and no audio. switching between inputs didn't work only power down did. I was testing between PCM and Bitstream and noticed setting the bitstream on the Samsung sounded a hole lot better.

I decided if the problems would occur with another disc so I popped in Transporter 3, D2v showed DTS MA and movie started no problem but when I fast forward to the scene were the S8 crashes in his house thats when I got no audio. switching inputs corrected it. I also paused it to see if loud hissing and that also occured.

Email Nick with model of player Samsung BD-P3600.

I'm going to check if I need to download update for that player...


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thevendetta* /forum/post/16595216
> 
> 
> Hey Bob...
> 
> 
> I saw earlier you said you didn't notice any difference between bitstreaming and using LPCM from your oppo... I on the other hand noticed a HUGE difference when switching back and fourth using WALLE. The soundstage got much bigger and deeper when bitstreaming... I had a buddy here to witness it and he agreed. I wonder what would be different.. Secondary audio is off and all of the settings are correct. Also, did the AppleTV thing get fixed with the new Official Firmware? I haven't been able to try it yet...
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> nick



I totally agree, switching between pcm & bitstream on my Samsung I also noticed a huge difference in audio. My wife comments that way didn't I set it up like that before I started the movie


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thevendetta* /forum/post/16595216
> 
> 
> Hey Bob...
> 
> 
> I saw earlier you said you didn't notice any difference between bitstreaming and using LPCM from your oppo... I on the other hand noticed a HUGE difference when switching back and fourth using WALLE. The soundstage got much bigger and deeper when bitstreaming... I had a buddy here to witness it and he agreed. I wonder what would be different.. Secondary audio is off and all of the settings are correct. Also, did the AppleTV thing get fixed with the new Official Firmware? I haven't been able to try it yet...
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> nick



Then you're doing something else wrong. They will be identical, assuming you are actually sending the HD bitstream and HD LPCM, and that the processing in the D2v is the same for both.


It's tiresome to continue to read this kind of stuff...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thevendetta* /forum/post/16595216
> 
> 
> Hey Bob...
> 
> 
> I saw earlier you said you didn't notice any difference between bitstreaming and using LPCM from your oppo... I on the other hand noticed a HUGE difference when switching back and fourth using WALLE. The soundstage got much bigger and deeper when bitstreaming... I had a buddy here to witness it and he agreed. I wonder what would be different.. Secondary audio is off and all of the settings are correct. Also, did the AppleTV thing get fixed with the new Official Firmware? I haven't been able to try it yet...
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> nick



AppleTV HDMI input should be fixed as of firmware V2.06. I don't have one, and we've had no posts confirming this yet.


If you are hearing a difference between HDMI LPCM and HDMI Bitstream from the Oppo then something is wrong. Check the Select button displays in the D2v to see what's going on both with the input and with the active speakers for output. Do you have 5.1 speakers or 7.1?


Check the on-screen info display for the Oppo. To the left of the audio description in the lower left corner you should see an icon showing 3 overlapping circles and not what looks like a waveform (which indicates the Oppo has had to reduce audio to the "compatibility" track to enable secondary audio).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16595605
> 
> 
> I totally agree, switching between pcm & bitstream on my Samsung I also noticed a huge difference in audio. My wife comments that way didn't I set it up like that before I started the movie



Does your Samsung offer internal decoding of the lossless tracks? If not, then selecting HDMI LPCM from it gets you a reduced quality audio track. There may be other setup options in the Samsung which will do the same, such as enabling secondary audio. I don't know enough about the Samsung players to help you on this.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16596271
> 
> 
> Does your Samsung offer internal decoding of the lossless tracks? If not, then selecting HDMI LPCM from it gets you a reduced quality audio track. There may be other setup options in the Samsung which will do the same, such as enabling secondary audio. I don't know enough about the Samsung players to help you on this.
> 
> --Bob



But the point is, HD LPCM should sound identical to the bitstream. If it doesn't, there's something else configured differently in their setup.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Agreed -- or the Samsung player doesn't do internal decoding of the lossless tracks in the first place.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Input of 2.0 HDMI LPCM 48KHz played into a Mode Preset of PLIIx-Movie is correctly producing 5.1 speaker output again in my system with the "test" V2.07 firmware.


Nick at Anthem insists that nothing has changed here, so it is apparently the random luck of the draw after doing a new firmware install. I.e., something isn't getting properly initialized.


44.1KHz input into PLIIx-Movie is still broken -- producing only 2.1 speaker output. The workaround of switching audio modes to anything else and back to PLIIx-Movie still works. With any luck this will be enough for the Anthem engineers to track this down.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

I bought a D2 in early May and thanks to ARC discovered problems with my speakers and (possibly) amp.

Now, about 1 month later, I finally got everything back and was able to redo ARC and try out the system.

Without a doubt, there is a big improvement as compared to what it was before. I had never watched a Blu-Ray movie before and last night I rented Ratatouille which was definitely a showcase for this technology.

The good is that I am very pleased with the results. The bad is that the upgrade bug bit me and now I wonder what I should change next.


I am including the charts for all to see.


Your comments are very welcome. You will notice that the center channel still shows a "dip" in the higher frequencies, but certainly not as bad as before (the original charts are shown in Post #21598).


Thanks!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In the Oppo, set Setup > Audio Processing > Dynamic Range Control = OFF.


The factory default setting of Auto causes the player to use control data present in Blu-Ray tracks. Some discs are known to have particularly wimpy settings which will result in significant loss of dynamics when the player is doing the decoding -- the original release of "Iron Man" Blu-Ray being the best known example.


There's a similar setting change needed in the PS3, and quite likely in other decoding players as well.


The Dynamics = Normal (i.e., the default) setting in the D2v and AVM 50v is the correct choice to prevent any such problem when the Anthem is doing the decoding.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16596271
> 
> 
> Does your Samsung offer internal decoding of the lossless tracks? If not, then selecting HDMI LPCM from it gets you a reduced quality audio track. There may be other setup options in the Samsung which will do the same, such as enabling secondary audio. I don't know enough about the Samsung players to help you on this.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, the Samsung does decode the tracks, I'm going to test my movies between LPCM & Bitstreaming. If the two are the same, wouldn't I rather have the D2v decoding


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16596354
> 
> 
> I bought a D2 in early May and thanks to ARC discovered problems with my speakers and (possibly) amp.
> 
> Now, about 1 month later, I finally got everything back and was able to redo ARC and try out the system.
> 
> Without a doubt, there is a big improvement as compared to what it was before. I had never watched a Blu-Ray movie before and last night I rented Ratatouille which was definitely a showcase for this technology.
> 
> The good is that I am very pleased with the results. The bad is that the upgrade bug bit me and now I wonder what I should change next.
> 
> 
> I am including the charts for all to see.
> 
> 
> Your comments are very welcome. You will notice that the center channel still shows a "dip" in the higher frequencies, but certainly not as bad as before (the original charts are shown in Post #21598).
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!!



Your higher frequencies should respond well to simply telling ARC it is OK to do to corrections up there. Open your results file in Advanced mode, bring up the Targets window and raise the Max EQ Frequency target above the default value of 5KHz. Try setting it all the way up to 20KHz to start. Accept that change of Targets (which also dismisses the Targets window) and do a new Calculation. If you like what you see, Upload the new results.


If raising it all the way up to 20KHz causes more residual errors to appear in the green Calculated curves at lower frequencies, try stepping it back a bit looking for a nice compromise setting. There's no need to re-Measure so you can do a bunch of trial Calculations like this in no time at all.


----------------------------------------


While you are at it, you might want to raise the Room Gain a bit. ARC found only modest amounts of Room Gain in your room and for movies in particular you might like the sound of adding a little more. I suggest you try 2 or 2.5dB of Room Gain for Movies at least (leave the Force box checked). I'd probably do it both for Movies and Music. You'll see this as a shallow hump in the Targets curves near the crossover frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16596375
> 
> 
> Yes, the Samsung does decode the tracks, I'm going to test my movies between LPCM & Bitstreaming. If the two are the same, wouldn't I rather have the D2v decoding



Generally the LPCM setting is more convenient for when you want to use secondary audio features from Blu-Ray discs.

--Bob


----------



## Johnsteph10

I'm proud to join the Anthem family.










My D2v arrived yesterday and tonight I'll actually get to take a look at it. The ARC package is HEAVY!


Just a quick external glance but everything seems to be extremely nice and built/designed really well.


I can't wait to test it with my Catalysts (in a very temporary home!).


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16596425
> 
> 
> Generally the LPCM setting is more convenient for when you want to use secondary audio features from Blu-Ray discs.
> 
> --Bob



Got it, Thanks


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16596375
> 
> 
> Yes, the Samsung does decode the tracks, I'm going to test my movies between LPCM & Bitstreaming. If the two are the same, wouldn't I rather have the D2v decoding



It's like unzipping a .zip file - it makes no difference who does the decoding, as long as you can have the pre-pro do the same matrixing and other processing of both.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16596410
> 
> 
> 
> While you are at it, you might want to raise the Room Gain a bit. ARC found only modest amounts of Room Gain in your room and for movies in particular you might like the sound of adding a little more. I suggest you try 2 or 2.5dB of Room Gain for Movies at least (leave the Force box checked). I'd probably do it both for Movies and Music. You'll see this as a shallow hump in the Targets curves near the crossover frequencies.
> 
> --Bob




Bob can you explain a bit more in detail about how adjusting the room gain will help with measurements.... what will happen if you add more or leave it more towards flat with no room gain added... I don't have alot of room gain because my room is so incredibly large - 8200^3 + other areas in the house.


Thanks


Patrick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16596482
> 
> 
> I'm proud to join the Anthem family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My D2v arrived yesterday and tonight I'll actually get to take a look at it. The ARC package is HEAVY!
> 
> 
> Just a quick external glance but everything seems to be extremely nice and built/designed really well.
> 
> 
> I can't wait to test it with my Catalysts (in a very temporary home!).



First of all, welcome to the Cool Kids thread!


The weight of the ARC package is all in the base for the included mic stand.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16596715
> 
> 
> Bob can you explain a bit more in detail about how adjusting the room gain will help with measurements.... what will happen if you add more or leave it more towards flat with no room gain added... I don't have alot of room gain because my room is so incredibly large - 8200^3 + other areas in the house.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Patrick



Room Gain is just another room response characteristic. Unlike room resonance spikes and room cancellation nulls, Room Gain is considered a "desirable" room response -- part of what makes a room sound as you expect it to sound.


ARC detects the natural Room Gain of your listening room and works to preserve it even as it is trying to eliminate the undesirable room response characteristics. Room Gain shows up in the ARC charts as the shallow hump in the Target curves in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies.


Room Gain measuring 2-4dB is pretty typical.


One advantage of maintaining the room's inherent, natural, Room Gain is that sounds that might occur naturally in the room -- such as people talking -- will sound the same when coming from the audio system.


Audio mixes for home theater generally assume some Room Gain. But some rooms, particularly acoustically treated rooms, may have little or no Room Gain. It is also possible for ARC to get confused by a room dip near the crossover frequencies and decide your room actually has no Room Gain (or negative Room Gain which makes no sense). ARC will assign 0dB or near 0dB Room Gain in such cases.


But ARC can be set to "force" a higher Room Gain result to adjust for such cases. However, you don't want to go too far from what the room already measures (so audio system sound stays well matched with natural sound in the room), so I suggest folks seeing that in their ARC Target window try forcing only about 2.0 or 2.5dB of Room Gain to see if they like the sound better.


Some folks prefer little or no Room Gain for Music listening, and ARC lets you adjust that separately if you like. Also if you have a different number of speakers in your Music setup, ARC may detect a somewhat different Room Gain for the room for Music vs. Movie as ARC picks a value that works best with all the speakers in the mix.


Just as with adjusting Max EQ Frequency, you can play around with this without having to re-Measure. Just make the change, re-Calculate, and re-Upload if the Calculated curves look good to you.


Trust your ears. If it sounds better to you, then it IS better.


And you can always do an Auto Detect in the ARC Targets window, which will cause ARC to restore its original Targets values -- including Room Gain -- according to the actual, original Measurements, which are always preserved in your ARC data file. Re-Calculate and re-Upload after that and you are back to what ARC originally set up for you.


In my case, ARC detected 2.9dB Room Gain for Movie and 2.5 Room Gain for Music (which I've set up to exclude the Center speaker) and I've not altered those values.

--Bob


----------



## thevendetta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16595928
> 
> 
> It's tiresome to continue to read this kind of stuff...



If it's so tiresome for you - don't read it... I believe it was addressed to Bob.










I will double check my settings once again and see if there something else going on.


----------



## jayray

In talking to Nick, he mentioned the existence of DTS-MA decoders in some players that do not decode the lossless track properly, but do send out the DTS-MA flag which will cause our Anthems to display DTS-MA, yet only send out the core track. It didn't include the PS3 or new OPPO. I simply asked how they decoded and he said no problem. Other makes were not mentioned. So it may not be as simple as it seems especially if there is a lack of quality control.

John


----------



## thevendetta

I just wanted to give a nod to Anthem on this... It really makes most recordings sound really great. Listening to Chris Potter now and this mode just fattens everything up. The Jazz trio pops and sounds like its in the room! Props to Anthem... Very pleased!


It's easy to get lost in all the tweaking and stuff - but the real enjoyment comes from getting lost in the music... Being a musician and a film editor I couldn't be more pleased. Beautiful stuff!


Sorry if it's off topic - wanted to share my excitement.


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16596482
> 
> 
> My D2v arrived yesterday and tonight I'll actually get to take a look at it.



When did you order your D2v? Mine has been on order for about 4 1/2 weeks now and I'm hoping to have it before the Fourth.



> Quote:
> I can't wait to test it with my Catalysts (in a very temporary home!).



That is going to be one rocking system when you get it finished. Two Terraform XLs (!) + Catalysts + Sparks + Buttkickers, hold on tight!


----------



## zuesmaximus

you're right. I switched my settings back to LPCM and also turned off a setting that was left on. eventhough D2v screen doesn't read DTS MA it actually is. I tried four different movies between the two settings and they all sounded the same. I over reacted due to not seeing DTS on the D2v face screen...my bad










I also was playing with the frame lock setting, see how that does


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Once the player decodes the audio to LPCM there's no way for the Anthem to find out what the track used to be. Whatever it was, it's now all LPCM. So of course that's what the Anthem displays.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16597169
> 
> 
> In talking to Nick, he mentioned the existence of DTS-MA decoders in some players that do not decode the lossless track properly, but do send out the DTS-MA flag which will cause our Anthems to display DTS-MA, yet only send out the core track. It didn't include the PS3 or new OPPO. I simply asked how they decoded and he said no problem. Other makes were not mentioned. So it may not be as simple as it seems especially if there is a lack of quality control.
> 
> John



Sure. The point is, if you hear a difference, there is EITHER a bug OR a set up problem.

--Bob


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16597434
> 
> 
> Once the player decodes the audio to LPCM there's no way for the Anthem to find out what the track used to be. Whatever it was, it's now all LPCM. So of course that's what the Anthem displays.
> 
> --Bob



yeap... thanks Mr.Pariseau









-Manny


----------



## Johnsteph10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16597269
> 
> 
> When did you order your D2v? Mine has been on order for about 4 1/2 weeks now and I'm hoping to have it before the Fourth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is going to be one rocking system when you get it finished. Two Terraform XLs (!) + Catalysts + Sparks + Buttkickers, hold on tight!



If you can believe it, I ordered it on March 20!


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thevendetta* /forum/post/16597199
> 
> 
> I just wanted to give a nod to Anthem on this... It really makes most recordings sound really great. Listening to Chris Potter now and this mode just fattens everything up. The Jazz trio pops and sounds like its in the room! Props to Anthem... Very pleased!
> 
> 
> It's easy to get lost in all the tweaking and stuff - but the real enjoyment comes from getting lost in the music... Being a musician and a film editor I couldn't be more pleased. Beautiful stuff!
> 
> 
> Sorry if it's off topic - wanted to share my excitement.



I agree whole heartedly, Anthem Logic does sound awesome and I use it with all of my 2 channel music! I don't think it's ever off topic to revel in what a good job Anthem has done with this, and the D2.


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16597510
> 
> 
> If you can believe it, I ordered it on March 20!



Wow, that is 11 weeks. I might have to lower my expectations about getting it by July 4 if that is the case.


Thanks


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob. I fixed my H.F. a little by playing with my furniture. mic was located very close to furniture or wall and the H.F. was bouncing back. It is still not perfect but sounds much better. I also adjusted the H.F. in the d2v by +2.0 and that made it perfect. Please once again give your comments on this new ARC.

I also have the same comment about pcm and bitstream. when I make the player send bitstream the d2v shows DTS Master 5.1. and when set player to pcm d2v shows pcm 7.1+THX. the pcm sounds a little briter than the bitstream. Is this 7.1+THX supposed too be the same as the DTS Master 5.1 because on d2v I have turned off the rear speaker because I have only 5.1. Thanks again Bob.

 

1.doc 134.5k . file

 

2.doc 133k . file

 

3.doc 48k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16598039
> 
> 
> Hello Bob. I fixed my H.F. a little by playing with my furniture. mic was located very close to furniture or wall and the H.F. was bouncing back. It is still not perfect but sounds much better. I also adjusted the H.F. in the d2v by +2.0 and that made it perfect. Please once again give your comments on this new ARC.
> 
> I also have the same comment about pcm and bitstream. when I make the player send bitstream the d2v shows DTS Master 5.1. and when set player to pcm d2v shows pcm 7.1+THX. the pcm sounds a little briter than the bitstream. Is this 7.1+THX supposed too be the same as the DTS Master 5.1 because on d2v I have turned off the rear speaker because I have only 5.1. Thanks again Bob.



I believe you'll discover is that you have THX post processing turned ON for LPCM audio input in the D2v. Press THX on the D2v remote and use Up/Down arrow to toggle OFF THX post processing. With an ARC setup I don't think the additional THX processing ads anything useful. This probably explains most of the difference you are hearing.


Next, if your player is decoding a 5.1 DTS-HD MA track into 7.1 LPCM then it is creating the 2 additional rear speaker channels by some sort of processing -- usually PLIIx. Turn that off in the player's audio processing settings.


If the track is a 7.1 track, then it is OK for the player to decode that to 7.1 LPCM output to the D2v -- there's no extra processing going on. The D2v will then down-mix that to 5.1 speakers for your 5.1 speaker setup -- the same thing that happens if you set the D2v to do the decoding of a 7.1 track.


-----------------------------------------------


On your latest charts you are getting pretty close. Your Measured bass has improved, particularly for LF, so ARC has bass pretty well in hand. The residual dip you still have in Sub is small enough that you can probably safely ignore it.


RS still needs improvement at 15KHz, and Center is marginal there as well, but the residual errors up there for LF/RF and LS should be fine as is.


What you have now should be sounding pretty good.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16598126
> 
> 
> I believe you'll discover is that you have THX post processing turned ON for LPCM audio input in the D2v. Press THX on the D2v remote and use Up/Down arrow to toggle OFF THX post processing. With an ARC setup I don't think the additional THX processing ads anything useful. This probably explains most of the difference you are hearing.
> 
> 
> Next, if your player is decoding a 5.1 DTS-HD MA track into 7.1 LPCM then it is creating the 2 additional rear speaker channels by some sort of processing -- usually PLIIx. Turn that off in the player's audio processing settings.
> 
> 
> If the track is a 7.1 track, then it is OK for the player to decode that to 7.1 LPCM output to the D2v -- there's no extra processing going on. The D2v will then down-mix that to 5.1 speakers for your 5.1 speaker setup -- the same thing that happens if you set the D2v to do the decoding of a 7.1 track.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> On your latest charts you are getting pretty close. Your Measured bass has improved, particularly for LF, so ARC has bass pretty well in hand. The residual dip you still have in Sub is small enough that you can probably safely ignore it.
> 
> 
> RS still needs improvement at 15KHz, and Center is marginal there as well, but the residual errors up there for LF/RF and LS should be fine as is.
> 
> 
> What you have now should be sounding pretty good.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


----------



## dweltman

I did want to stop in and post that, at the recommendation of Anthem service, I did the firmware upgrade from 2.04 to 2.06. It seems to have completely solved the 192/24 dropout issues I was having with the Divertimenti Blu-Ray. With both LPCM and Bitstream. So if you haven't done it yet, I strongly recommend the upgrade. I decided not to go with the newer test firmware until it becomes official, as 2.06 has solved my main issue.


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16596410
> 
> 
> Your higher frequencies should respond well to simply telling ARC it is OK to do to corrections up there. Open your results file in Advanced mode, bring up the Targets window and raise the Max EQ Frequency target above the default value of 5KHz. Try setting it all the way up to 20KHz to start. Accept that change of Targets (which also dismisses the Targets window) and do a new Calculation. If you like what you see, Upload the new results.
> 
> 
> If raising it all the way up to 20KHz causes more residual errors to appear in the green Calculated curves at lower frequencies, try stepping it back a bit looking for a nice compromise setting. There's no need to re-Measure so you can do a bunch of trial Calculations like this in no time at all.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> While you are at it, you might want to raise the Room Gain a bit. ARC found only modest amounts of Room Gain in your room and for movies in particular you might like the sound of adding a little more. I suggest you try 2 or 2.5dB of Room Gain for Movies at least (leave the Force box checked). I'd probably do it both for Movies and Music. You'll see this as a shallow hump in the Targets curves near the crossover frequencies.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I followed your recommendations as follows: 1) I changed the Max Eq Frequency to 20,000 and also added 2db of gain (I did it to the movie configuration only). The charts show the results. What do you think?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/16601460
> 
> 
> I did want to stop in and post that, at the recommendation of Anthem service, I did the firmware upgrade from 2.04 to 2.06. It seems to have completely solved the 192/24 dropout issues I was having with the Divertimenti Blu-Ray. With both LPCM and Bitstream. So if you haven't done it yet, I strongly recommend the upgrade. I decided not to go with the newer test firmware until it becomes official, as 2.06 has solved my main issue.



That's very interesting. Thanks for the report!

--Bob


----------



## butterbars

I'm thinking of joining the ARC club and getting a D2, but just wanted to confirm a setup question I have after reading the manual.


I have 2 HDMI sources (Blu-ray and TivoHD) that would be connected to the D2, and the single HDMI out would go to the projector in the theater. The question comes in using Zone 2: I would like to run component video and analog audio to a plasma tv in another room. Will this work, and is it as simple as connecting the tv to the Zone 2 component out and Zone 2 analog audio out? Anything else to be aware of when doing this?


Thanks for the help and looking forward to hearing and seeing what all the excitement is about with Anthem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16601747
> 
> 
> Bob, I followed your recommendations as follows: 1) I changed the Max Eq Frequency to 20,000 and also added 2db of gain (I did it to the movie configuration only). The charts show the results. What do you think?



I see you also changed Room Gain in the Music configuration to 0dB. I'd suggest you put back the small value ARC found -- something like 0.59dB as I recall. It's in your previous ARC Targets window capture, or you can do an Auto Detect in the ARC Targets window to get it back (and then re-enter the Targets changes you actually want).


Second, your current settings have a bit more residual error in LF than I'm happy with around 100Hz. This is likely a combo of asking ARC to add the additional Room Gain (since LF Measures low in that region to begin with) and also asking ARC to correct up to 20KHz since that diverts ARC resources up to there.


I suggest you leave the Room Gain at 2dB but try backing off Max EQ Frequency a bit to see what setting regains a good result near 100Hz for LF. Try to roughly halve that residual error in LF near 100Hz.


Your other speakers are already looking good -- the residual errors are all small enough to just ignore -- so that's the only point of concern.


You might discover that, for example, an 18KHz setting gives you good correction in the high frequencies while also yielding a cleaner result at the low frequencies. Just try a few case to see what looks like a good compromise setting then give that one a listen.


You are very close to perfection now. So we are talking fine tweaking here.


By the way, you can view your Music configuration charts by selecting Music from ARC's View menu.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *butterbars* /forum/post/16602031
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of joining the ARC club and getting a D2, but just wanted to confirm a setup question I have after reading the manual.
> 
> 
> I have 2 HDMI sources (Blu-ray and TivoHD) that would be connected to the D2, and the single HDMI out would go to the projector in the theater. The question comes in using Zone 2: I would like to run component video and analog audio to a plasma tv in another room. Will this work, and is it as simple as connecting the tv to the Zone 2 component out and Zone 2 analog audio out? Anything else to be aware of when doing this?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help and looking forward to hearing and seeing what all the excitement is about with Anthem.



It is, unfortunately, more complicated than that.


HDMI copy protection prohibits conversion of HDMI input to Component output, and since most all interesting HDMI content is copy protected this is a problem.


So what you need to do is ALSO hook up Component from your sources. And you need to verify that your sources will send out Component video even if you also have the HDMI cable hooked up from them.


Typically you would then set up Zone 2 to use the UNprocessed Component video from the selected source -- it can either track whatever source you select for the Main path (i.e., when using the HDMI input and processing that video to your Main display) or you can set it up to be a separate source choice for Zone 2. Any processing of the Zone 2 video would then be done in your Zone 2 display.


Alternatively, you can set up a Source definition that sends Component input to the video processor for the Main display (instead of HDMI) and then you can set Zone 2 to use that processed Component video for Component output. The Main output to your Main display can still be HDMI.


One other restriction is that although HDMI input and output can be processed up to 1080p/60, Component video input and output can be processed only up to 1080p/30 (= 1080i/60). You can still use 1080p/60 for Component input and output but it is only UNprocessed -- pass through -- of that video.


------------------------------------------


ETA: Also note that with the new D2v model, there are TWO HDMI outputs -- which carry the same, processed, Main path video. So if your second display also has HDMI input, you could use the second HDMI output to drive that. The restriction doing that is that you can't use a separate source device selection for Zone 2. The second display will always show the same source video going to the Main display.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

I imagine the answer to this is no, but I'll ask anyway.


Is there anyway to not use the upsampling feature of the D2V? For example, if one is playing SACD at 176/24 from a PS3 or 88/24 from an Oppo, it might be preferable not to upsample to 192/24.


Or in the case of the Oppo, it would be preferable to upsample to 176/24 prior to decoding (on a theoretical level) rather than to 192/24.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nope. This is not adjustable.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

Slightly off topic cable question...


I just swapped out a Blue Jeans F2 cable for a longer version of exactly the same cable (only 20ft).


The cable (Dv2 out > PJ) works when I feed it a "true" 1080p signal (e.g., a Blu Ray from the PS3) but does not work for all other SD material (PS3 or TV) which is being output by the D2v at 1080p also. The picture constantly comes and goes as it negotiates with the PJ.


Now the opposite behavior I could maybe understand, but not this way around!!


Any ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16602666
> 
> 
> Slightly off topic cable question...
> 
> 
> I just swapped out a Blue Jeans F2 cable for a longer version of exactly the same cable (only 20ft).
> 
> 
> The cable (Dv2 out > PJ) works when I feed it a "true" 1080p signal (e.g., a Blu Ray from the PS3) but does not work for all other SD material (PS3 or TV) which is being output by the D2v at 1080p also. The picture constantly comes and goes as it negotiates with the PJ.
> 
> 
> Now the opposite behavior I could maybe understand, but not this way around!!
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



Sure, you probably have the Blu-Ray sending it 1080p/24. Meanwhile the other material is sending it 1080p/60 which is more than twice the bandwidth.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

so just too long Bob? Whats an 'ideal' length? 10 feet worked great (but was too short) and 20ft is apparently too long.....


Is anyone else using the F2 and care to share what length is working for them?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16603181
> 
> 
> so just too long Bob? Whats an 'ideal' length? 10 feet worked great (but was too short) and 20ft is apparently too short.....
> 
> 
> Is anyone else using the F2 and care to share what length is working for them?



I'm using a 75-foot HDMI cable from monoprice, and have zero problems with anything - 1080p24, 1080p60 (HTPC), 1080i60, 720p, 480p, 480i. All upconverted to 1080p60 to my projector (Sony VW60).


So distance isn't the issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16603181
> 
> 
> so just too long Bob? Whats an 'ideal' length? 10 feet worked great (but was too short) and 20ft is apparently too short.....
> 
> 
> Is anyone else using the F2 and care to share what length is working for them?



20 feet shouldn't be too long. Make sure the plugs are fully inserted in the sockets -- the weight of the cable may be shifting them.


It's also possible you just got a faulty cable.


If you are using any adapters or wall plates that may very well be your problem.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

Bob - you got it.


Port savers. Although I'm not sure what they are supposed to save, it's certainly not my patience.


I wasted money on 6 and now use none of them. Ah well......


Thanks for your input - this was driving me nuts!!


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16603334
> 
> 
> Bob - you got it.
> 
> 
> Port savers. Although I'm not sure what they are supposed to save, it's certainly not my patience.
> 
> 
> I wasted money on 6 and now use none of them. Ah well......
> 
> 
> Thanks for your input - this was driving me nuts!!



Spider - Where did you get your port savers from? I have several from Monoprice and have had no problems. I have from my D2v - port saver, 1-m cable, wall plate, 30-ft cable, port saver, Sony VW60. All cable from Monoprice and I have not had any problems to date.


Mike


----------



## spiderv6

I got the ones below from Amazon.


They have consistently introduced issues for me wherever I have used them. Basically they just degrade the signal - as in my example above.

*Cables To Go Velocity HDMI Port Saver Adapter - Rotating adapter - HDMI - 19 pin HDMI (M) - 19 pin HDMI (F) - blue*


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16603820
> 
> 
> I got the ones below from Amazon.
> 
> 
> They have consistently introduced issues for me wherever I have used them. Basically they just degrade the signal - as in my example above.
> 
> *Cables To Go Velocity HDMI Port Saver Adapter - Rotating adapter - HDMI - 19 pin HDMI (M) - 19 pin HDMI (F) - blue*



Why do people, especially people on this board, buy from anywhere but monoprice?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16605057
> 
> 
> Why do people, especially people on this board, buy from anywhere but monoprice?



I wanted to say THOSE EXACT words.


But I didn't have the courage


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16605057
> 
> 
> Why do people, especially people on this board, buy from anywhere but monoprice?



Probably on this because for a long period of time ealier this year the Monoprice port savers were on backorder.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16605297
> 
> 
> Probably on this because for a long period of time ealier this year the Monoprice port savers were on backorder.



Probably becuase we scarf them all up as soon as they are in stock.


----------



## spiderv6

they were out of stock and someone esle on the board recommended them.


Jeez, you guys are *tough* this morning!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2v / AVM 50v Firmware V2.07 is now "Official"!*


Anthem's public download pages have been updated this morning to make firmware V2.07 the new "official" firmware for the D2v and the AVM 50v. Manuals for those products remain at the May 21 versions. Firmware for the original D2 and AVM 50 remains at V1.33. ARC for all ARC-capable processors remains at V2.2.


Change notes for the D2v and AVM 50v firmware, from the launch of the products to V2.07, now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for popping that began in v2.06 with Toshiba XA2 as source.
> 
> 
> 2. New VXP video processor code.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for a DSP problem that affected the AVM 50v with 44.1 kHz input.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v2.06:
> 
> 
> 1. Improved HDMI connectivity with media servers, including AppleTV, as well as displays when two displays are connected and they are a different brand.
> 
> 
> 2. Various fixes to improve stability.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.04:
> 
> 
> 1. Various audio, video, and HDCP/HDMI changes to add stability.
> 
> 
> 2. Separate controls for mosquito and block noise reduction.
> 
> 
> 3. Fixes for audio processing bugs including test signals, downmixing, LFE level, and 7.1-channel 24/192 support.
> 
> 
> 4. Fixes for video processing bugs including deep color output, grayscale, and 480i to 1080i component input change.
> 
> 
> 5. Various minor display changes for status and video processing.
> 
> 
> 6. Frame Lock is disabled as Inverse Telecine will replace it in future software.
> 
> 
> 7. Removed from video processor: Zoom, since cropping input is the better way to achieve zoom. Y/C delay, since there was no evidence of it being used. Motion Threshold, since the default setting was the only one necessary with real-world sources.
> 
> 
> VIDEO PROCESSOR SETTINGS WILL BE LOST when this version is installed unless v2.02b or later is now in the processor - write down your changes to the video menu (the press and hold "7" key colorful one) and re-enter them after the update.
> 
> 
> 
> Known issue:
> 
> 
> 1. LFE is redirected incorrectly if surrounds or rears are set to Large and sub is None.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.02:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for audio dropouts with PCM input.
> 
> 
> 2. Fix for ARC test sweeps.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.00 D2v / v2.01 AVM 50v:
> 
> 
> Initial releases.



If you've already installed the "test" release of V2.07, this "official" release is the same file, so no need to re-install it.


I still have no useful info on what might have been included in the "new VXP code". So far I've found no down-side to moving from V2.06 to V2.07, but I've also not found any fixes that affect my setup.


We are now on "Double Cookie Watch" for firmware -- awaiting the first poster who gets a new D2v or AVM 50v, powers it up, and confirms that V2.06 is factory installed, or now that V2.07 (or later) is factory installed. We remain on Cookie Watch for a post confirming ARC V2.2 (or later) as installed from the ARC install CD of a new unit.


To see the firmware number, power up your unit and press Select once on the remote to see the number on the front panel display. No need to wire up or set up the unit first. To see the ARC version number, install ARC on your Windows PC using the included install CD, run the ARC application in Advanced mode, and select About from the Help menu. No need to attach the ARC mic or serial cable or do any of the ARC setup process.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16605564
> 
> 
> probably becuase we scarf them all up as soon as they are in stock.



+1!


----------



## Johnsteph10

Just powered mine up for the first time - 2.04 and ARC 2.1







I guess no cookie for me!


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16598126
> 
> 
> I believe you'll discover is that you have THX post processing turned ON for LPCM audio input in the D2v. Press THX on the D2v remote and use Up/Down arrow to toggle OFF THX post processing. With an ARC setup I don't think the additional THX processing ads anything useful. This probably explains most of the difference you are hearing.
> 
> 
> Next, if your player is decoding a 5.1 DTS-HD MA track into 7.1 LPCM then it is creating the 2 additional rear speaker channels by some sort of processing -- usually PLIIx. Turn that off in the player's audio processing settings.
> 
> 
> If the track is a 7.1 track, then it is OK for the player to decode that to 7.1 LPCM output to the D2v -- there's no extra processing going on. The D2v will then down-mix that to 5.1 speakers for your 5.1 speaker setup -- the same thing that happens if you set the D2v to do the decoding of a 7.1 track.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> On your latest charts you are getting pretty close. Your Measured bass has improved, particularly for LF, so ARC has bass pretty well in hand. The residual dip you still have in Sub is small enough that you can probably safely ignore it.
> 
> 
> RS still needs improvement at 15KHz, and Center is marginal there as well, but the residual errors up there for LF/RF and LS should be fine as is.
> 
> 
> What you have now should be sounding pretty good.
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob. Based on my charts I posted last week, do you think it is worth changing my speakers? If yes, what do you think about Paradigm Studio 100 v5 or any other suggestions?

Thanks as always.


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

i bought a d2 with out arc , 1 year old used , the dealer i got it from ordered arc what does it come with , mic , software ? can i install it when i get it ? or does the dealer do it .


thanks iN advance bert


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/16606912
> 
> 
> i bought a d2 with out arc , 1 year old used , the dealer i got it from ordered arc what does it come with , mic , software ? can i install it when i get it ? or does the dealer do it .
> 
> 
> thanks iN advance bert



Nothing really to install. Just the software on your PC. Connect the PC to the D2 with the supplied RS232 cable and connect the USB mic to the PC and you are ready to go.


mk


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/16606912
> 
> 
> i bought a d2 with out arc , 1 year old used , the dealer i got it from ordered arc what does it come with , mic , software ? can i install it when i get it ? or does the dealer do it .
> 
> 
> thanks iN advance bert



Lambert you will get a nice white flat box with mic, the standpole, standbase, usb to mini cable, short manual and software disc. just download disc which will have license numbers for to run arc....


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Lambert,

Your D2 should have the V1.33 firmware installed. If not, download the V1.33 firmware installer from Anthem's public download page for the D2 and update the firmware.


The ARC kit you just ordered should come with V2.2 of the ARC software (that gets installed on your Windows PC). If the kit you get has an older version, download ARC V2.2 from Anthem's public download page and install that on your Windows PC.

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


Some folks have also found it helpful to buy a lightweight boom arm for the Anthem provided mic stand, or to replace that stand altogether with a lightweight boom arm mic stand (shouldn't cost more than about $30). That's useful for reaching over chair backs or seat cushions for example. Just move the Anthem provided mic clip to the end of the boom arm.


You will also need a serial connection from your Windows PC. Many folks here are using the Keyspan USA-19HS USB to Serial adapter. If your used D2 did not come with a serial cable you will need to get a "straight through" serial cable (pins 1-9 connect directly to pins 1-9 at the other end) -- typically from Radio Shack. You can leave that permanently connected to the back of your D2, coiled up neatly out of the way when not in use.


And it is always a good idea to have a Radio Shack SPL (sound pressure level) meter for initial setup and for confirming your ARC setup. They are relatively inexpensive and everybody uses them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16606868
> 
> 
> Hello Bob. Based on my charts I posted last week, do you think it is worth changing my speakers? If yes, what do you think about Paradigm Studio 100 v5 or any other suggestions?
> 
> Thanks as always.



Since you are sensitive to the amount of bass you are getting I'd suggest you audition a subwoofer that can go deeper into the subsonics.


I wouldn't be in too much of a rush to replace your other speakers. They appear to be weak in the highest frequencies but ARC has that pretty well under control except for RS, and perhaps for C.


I think with the possible exception of the new sub, you should spend some time getting used to how good your current stuff sounds with ARC in place. Then when you try out new speakers at some point down the road you'll have a better idea whether they are really providing an improvement you can hear. Keep in mind you'll need to do an ARC setup with the new speakers to know that.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Too bad the new release notes don't reflect the lack of fix for the XA2









John


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16608517
> 
> 
> Since you are sensitive to the amount of bass you are getting I'd suggest you audition a subwoofer that can go deeper into the subsonics.
> 
> 
> I wouldn't be in too much of a rush to replace your other speakers. They appear to be weak in the highest frequencies but ARC has that pretty well under control except for RS, and perhaps for C.
> 
> 
> I think with the possible exception of the new sub, you should spend some time getting used to how good your current stuff sounds with ARC in place. Then when you try out new speakers at some point down the road you'll have a better idea whether they are really providing an improvement you can hear. Keep in mind you'll need to do an ARC setup with the new speakers to know that.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I really appreciate it. But do you know what is the frequency range in the HF of the 3.6f -k. I adjusted that higher by 2 db and sounded better. I want to know if that covers high freq. above 10000. Thanks Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I do not know. But in any event it is unlikely to be a precise fix for the particular weakness of your speakers up there.


Nevertheless, if you like the sound better then it IS better.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Jayray,

I thought you got half of your XA2 problem fixed -- the Chapter Forward/Back fixed, right? So your remaining problem is the older problem when you Pause?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

the pause is fixed but for all lossless codecs, FF, chapter skip and chapter select from the menu, all produce a loud pop and very low thump. The thump is very subtle but the pop is very loud and shrill, sounds like a static discharge. Also, if the lossless codec is the default sound, the popping occurs as the player changes from the DD+ it starts with and the lossless it will play for the film.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ah. Yes that's pretty nasty.

--Bob


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

thank you all


bErt


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16528888
> 
> 
> Well I don't have any confirmation that it ISN'T going to start in June, either.
> 
> --Bob



It will not be in June. Now lets hope it will happen in July.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16605057
> 
> 
> Why do people, especially people on this board, buy from anywhere but monoprice?



I am using them for interconnect between sources and Anthem.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage 


For long cable (such as between projector and Anthem), I prefer to use this device:


HDMI 180-DEGREE

SWIVEL ADAPTOR


From Ultralink.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/16612086
> 
> 
> It will not be in June. Now lets hope it will happen in July.



I think you are right. It's pretty clear their backorder is still beyond 60 days and I don't think they'll start the upgrade program until they can get back down below that for new orders.

---Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16602078
> 
> 
> I see you also changed Room Gain in the Music configuration to 0dB. I'd suggest you put back the small value ARC found -- something like 0.59dB as I recall. It's in your previous ARC Targets window capture, or you can do an Auto Detect in the ARC Targets window to get it back (and then re-enter the Targets changes you actually want).
> 
> 
> Second, your current settings have a bit more residual error in LF than I'm happy with around 100Hz. This is likely a combo of asking ARC to add the additional Room Gain (since LF Measures low in that region to begin with) and also asking ARC to correct up to 20KHz since that diverts ARC resources up to there.
> 
> 
> I suggest you leave the Room Gain at 2dB but try backing off Max EQ Frequency a bit to see what setting regains a good result near 100Hz for LF. Try to roughly halve that residual error in LF near 100Hz.
> 
> 
> Your other speakers are already looking good -- the residual errors are all small enough to just ignore -- so that's the only point of concern.
> 
> 
> You might discover that, for example, an 18KHz setting gives you good correction in the high frequencies while also yielding a cleaner result at the low frequencies. Just try a few case to see what looks like a good compromise setting then give that one a listen.
> 
> 
> You are very close to perfection now. So we are talking fine tweaking here.
> 
> 
> By the way, you can view your Music configuration charts by selecting Music from ARC's View menu.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, here we go. I played with the Max Eq and have settled (so far) on 17,000. The charts are attached.


The good: Wow! The improvement overall is far greater than I would ever had thought possible. When listening to music (my main use) I hear nuances in the recordings that I had never heard before. Comparing the investment that I made (the D2 and repair of speaker and amp) I cannot recall ever having so much musical return for the money.

The bad: 1) Recordings that I thought were good now show their weaknesses, 2) the upgrade bug has been unleashed; I'm trying (hard) to keep it under control.


Thank you Bob and all!!!


----------



## Nicoff

Music charts attached.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16613479
> 
> 
> Music charts attached.



Nicoff. What kind of speakers do you have and do you have dedicated room or no? The reason I am asking is because I have a dip around 15000 hz and want to know if it is the speakers or my room setup. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16613470
> 
> 
> Ok, here we go. I played with the Max Eq and have settled (so far) on 17,000. The charts are attached.
> 
> 
> The good: Wow! The improvement overall is far greater than I would ever had thought possible. When listening to music (my main use) I hear nuances in the recordings that I had never heard before. Comparing the investment that I made (the D2 and repair of speaker and amp) I cannot recall ever having so much musical return for the money.
> 
> The bad: 1) Recordings that I thought were good now show their weaknesses, 2) the upgrade bug has been unleashed; I'm trying (hard) to keep it under control.
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob and all!!!



It looks like the room cancellation dip at 100Hz is a bit too much for ARC to fully correct for LF. It is showing up in RF as well, but the residual error is smaller there for reasons that are not obvious to me. Apparently ARC has to do something different correcting for LF that precludes fully fixing that dip. It shows up more in Movie because you have asked ARC to raise the Room Gain a bit which makes that dip a bit deeper below the Target curve.


The error is really not that bad but if you want to tackle it you've got two options: (1) Adjust the positioning for LF (and maybe also RF) -- try a couple inches closer to the wall/corner behind them and also a couple inches further out. What you are trying to do is change the way the speaker couples to the room to see if you can break it free from that dip at 100Hz.


The alternative, (2) is to add some bass trap material on the wall/corner behind those two speakers which will reduce reflections and thus also change how the speakers are coupling to the room.


But again, the residual error is not that bad so it would also be perfectly reasonable for you to choose door #3 instead -- which is to declare victory and just enjoy!

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16613733
> 
> 
> Nicoff. What kind of speakers do you have and do you have dedicated room or no? The reason I am asking is because I have a dip around 15000 hz and want to know if it is the speakers or my room setup. Thanks.



I have a dedicated home theater room. The room is very large: 18'-6" wide, 27' long. Ceiling is 10"-6" high.


My front and rear speakers are Magnepans (two 3.6R in the front, two MG-IIIa in the rear), my center channel is a B&W nautilus HTM2. I also have a 18" Velodyne sub. My front speakers are placed 6 feet away from the rear wall and about 3 feet from the side walls; they are 10 feet apart from each other (when watching movies the screen fills the space between the two front speakers). I sit 13 feet away from the front speakers. I have no room treatments (for sound) at all.


----------



## shawnwalters

Anyone using a HTPC with their Anthem? I bought a HP computer yesterday with a NVIDIA GeForce 9500 GS graphics card.


My problem is I'm setting it up and I tried running the HDMI through my Anthem and it doesn't recognize it as a display and my anthem says no input. However if I go straight to my projector it works fine (video atleast).


Any ideas? It also has a DVI out. Should I try a dvi>hdmi adapter and see if that helps?


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16614237
> 
> 
> I have a dedicated home theater room. The room is very large: 18'-6" wide, 27' long. Ceiling is 10"-6" high.
> 
> 
> My front and rear speakers are Magnepans (two 3.6R in the front, two MG-IIIa in the rear), my center channel is a B&W nautilus HTM2. I also have a 18" Velodyne sub. My front speakers are placed 6 feet away from the rear wall and about 3 feet from the side walls; they are 10 feet apart from each other (when watching movies the screen fills the space between the two front speakers). I sit 13 feet away from the front speakers. I have no room treatments (for sound) at all.



Thanks Nickoff. Your setup is much better than mine.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16614704
> 
> 
> Anyone using a HTPC with their Anthem? I bought a HP computer yesterday with a NVIDIA GeForce 9500 GS graphics card.
> 
> 
> My problem is I'm setting it up and I tried running the HDMI through my Anthem and it doesn't recognize it as a display and my anthem says no input. However if I go straight to my projector it works fine (video atleast).
> 
> 
> Any ideas? It also has a DVI out. Should I try a dvi>hdmi adapter and see if that helps?



Are you running V2.06 or later firmware on a D2v or AVM 50v? There are some fixes in V2.06 that should help with this, so if that's what you've got, send an email to Anthem tech support with the details as I'm sure they are trying to learn which HTPC configurations are being helped.


The usual problem with graphics cards is that (1) they don't pick up the EDID (configuration) information in the normal way from the Anthem -- i.e., they aren't prepared for the number of options the Anthem offers them, and (2) they change resolutions too quickly as they are booting up and confuse the handshake.


In the past, many folks have found the Geffen DVI Detective product helpful. If gets connected between the HTPC and the Anthem and forces a more limited type of handshake.

--Bob


----------



## lessm1

I am experiencing a problem when listening to some DTS Master audio sound tracks particularly Transporter 3 and Twilight (Using HDMI) in that there are breaks or gaps in the audio that last from a split second up to a second or so. Additionally, the gaps always occur at the same points. I updated my D2v from 2.05 to 2.06 and than 2.07. Each upgrade only make the problem worse. I reported the issue to Anthem, but was wondering is anyone else was experiencing the same problem or if a switch in bluray player might correct the issue. My player is the Denon 3800BDCI.


----------



## usxplong

Bob. Do we need to update to each firmware or the latest firmware cotains the previous updates too?

Thanks.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16615748
> 
> 
> Bob. Do we need to update to each firmware or the latest firmware cotains the previous updates too?
> 
> Thanks.



All firmware updates contain the previous fixes. So just do the most recent.

John


----------



## netroamer

Besides the EQ adjustments that ARC performs, does it also adjust timing (delays)?


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16614237
> 
> 
> I have a dedicated home theater room. The room is very large: 18'-6" wide, 27' long. Ceiling is 10"-6" high.
> 
> 
> My front and rear speakers are Magnepans (two 3.6R in the front, two MG-IIIa in the rear), my center channel is a B&W nautilus HTM2. I also have a 18" Velodyne sub. My front speakers are placed 6 feet away from the rear wall and about 3 feet from the side walls; they are 10 feet apart from each other (when watching movies the screen fills the space between the two front speakers). I sit 13 feet away from the front speakers. I have no room treatments (for sound) at all.



Your room dimensions are virtually identical to mine. (19' w x 27' l x 10' h).


I wouldn't worry too much about the 100 Hz notch. It's too narrow band to be much of a problem. The wavelength at 100 Hz is about 11.5' long and thus your speakers are about 1/2 wavelength from the back wall. These speakers are I believe large flat panel full bandwidth dipoles so most likely the interaction off the back wall is where the 100 Hz notch is coming from. You could play with the distance by moving them forward or backward to see if the frequency of the notch moves, put traps behind them, or as Bob says, just take door #3 and enjoy.


mk


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/16616511
> 
> 
> Besides the EQ adjustments that ARC performs, does it also adjust timing (delays)?



arc does not do timing delays. it listens to one speaker at a time. the measurements from each speaker to the listening positon have to be entered into the setup menu.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lessm1* /forum/post/16615653
> 
> 
> I am experiencing a problem when listening to some DTS Master audio sound tracks particularly Transporter 3 and Twilight (Using HDMI) in that there are breaks or gaps in the audio that last from a split second up to a second or so. Additionally, the gaps always occur at the same points. I updated my D2v from 2.05 to 2.06 and than 2.07. Each upgrade only make the problem worse. I reported the issue to Anthem, but was wondering is anyone else was experiencing the same problem or if a switch in bluray player might correct the issue. My player is the Denon 3800BDCI.



Check to see if there is a firmware upgrade for your player. Such issues are almost always player issues.


Are you using HDMI Bitstream (decoding in D2v) or HDMI LPCM (decoding in player)? If your player offers both, try using the other one as this may be a workaround.


Also gaps as long as a second or so almost always mean the player is having trouble reading the disc. This is particularly so if the problems happen with both HDMI LPCM and HDMI Bitstream. Check your disc copies for signs of smudges or scratches. Even brand new discs can have defects, and of course rental discs can have all sorts of problems. Also check the owner's thread for your player to see if others have reported player problems reading these two titles.


Meanwhile, lets see if we have any D2v owners using a 3800 who can tell how well it works with the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16614704
> 
> 
> Anyone using a HTPC with their Anthem? I bought a HP computer yesterday with a NVIDIA GeForce 9500 GS graphics card.
> 
> 
> My problem is I'm setting it up and I tried running the HDMI through my Anthem and it doesn't recognize it as a display and my anthem says no input. However if I go straight to my projector it works fine (video atleast).
> 
> 
> Any ideas? It also has a DVI out. Should I try a dvi>hdmi adapter and see if that helps?



I am. A couple pieces of advice:

1) Get a real HDMI card/MB. They are much more tolerant of HTPC setups (see my sig for details)


2) Get a DVI Doctor/Detective. It's really worth it for all the headaches you can then ignore. This alone might solve your current problem (i.e. scan the EDID of the TV into the DVID, then done).


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16614704
> 
> 
> Anyone using a HTPC with their Anthem? I bought a HP computer yesterday with a NVIDIA GeForce 9500 GS graphics card.
> 
> 
> My problem is I'm setting it up and I tried running the HDMI through my Anthem and it doesn't recognize it as a display and my anthem says no input. However if I go straight to my projector it works fine (video atleast).
> 
> 
> Any ideas? It also has a DVI out. Should I try a dvi>hdmi adapter and see if that helps?



I try to debug a NVIDIA setup last year. Spent a lot of time without too much success. Finally swapped the video card for an ATI 4670 and it was basically plug and play. The whole 4xxx serie from ATI works really well.


I get audio through the Anthem at 5.1 96khz/24bits using foobar as the player. Video works really well. I defined 4 video config on the HTPCand the Anthem to run at 1080p24, 1080p25, 1080p50 and 1080p60. This allow me to watch non region A bd from europe without too much issues.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just got word in a PM that Anthem has now informed their dealers the D2 -> D2v upgrades will actually begin in September.


Details on the program (including pricing of course) are supposed to be available "shortly".


I don't have independent confirmation of the new date, but I have no reason to doubt it.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16615363
> 
> 
> Are you running V2.06 or later firmware on a D2v or AVM 50v? There are some fixes in V2.06 that should help with this, so if that's what you've got, send an email to Anthem tech support with the details as I'm sure they are trying to learn which HTPC configurations are being helped.
> 
> 
> The usual problem with graphics cards is that (1) they don't pick up the EDID (configuration) information in the normal way from the Anthem -- i.e., they aren't prepared for the number of options the Anthem offers them, and (2) they change resolutions too quickly as they are booting up and confuse the handshake.
> 
> 
> In the past, many folks have found the Geffen DVI Detective product helpful. If gets connected between the HTPC and the Anthem and forces a more limited type of handshake.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob - I've got 2.05a. I'll install 2.07 today. Thanks for the info on the Geffen DVI too.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16616770
> 
> 
> I am. A couple pieces of advice:
> 
> 1) Get a real HDMI card/MB. They are much more tolerant of HTPC setups (see my sig for details)
> 
> 
> 2) Get a DVI Doctor/Detective. It's really worth it for all the headaches you can then ignore. This alone might solve your current problem (i.e. scan the EDID of the TV into the DVID, then done).



Thanks, this is kind of what I was thinking, the video card needs to be upgraded. So the Radeon 4850/4870 would work?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/16618737
> 
> 
> I try to debug a NVIDIA setup last year. Spent a lot of time without too much success. Finally swapped the video card for an ATI 4670 and it was basically plug and play. The whole 4xxx serie from ATI works really well.
> 
> 
> I get audio through the Anthem at 5.1 96khz/24bits using foobar as the player. Video works really well. I defined 4 video config on the HTPCand the Anthem to run at 1080p24, 1080p25, 1080p50 and 1080p60. This allow me to watch non region A bd from europe without too much issues.



Awesome thanks for the info! I'll look into the ATI's.


----------



## usxplong

I have an issue with d2v not a problem. When I change sources the d2v display shows DD 2.0 while the source is playing DD 5.1 and the sound from d2v is DD 5.1.

Is there any fix or I do something wrong? I have the factory installed firmware v2.04.

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16620569
> 
> 
> I have an issue with d2v not a problem. When I change sources the d2v display shows DD 2.0 while the source is playing DD 5.1 and the sound from d2v is DD 5.1.
> 
> Is there any fix or I do something wrong? I have the factory installed firmware v2.04.
> 
> Thanks.



First of all, update to V2.07, although I don't think that will directly address your concern.


Now, are you SURE your source is playing DD5.1? There are things you can do that will cause source devices to switch to DD2.0 even when you have selected a DD5.1 track, such as turning on commentary audio in a disc player. So the first thing to do is double check your source device settings.


The D2v will take 2.0 input and raise it to 5.1 or 7.1 speaker output if you are using a surround mode such as Anthem Logic Cinema or PLIIx-Movie. So you can't judge the audio input format just by whether or not audio is coming from the surround speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16620569
> 
> 
> I have an issue with d2v not a problem. When I change sources the d2v display shows DD 2.0 while the source is playing DD 5.1 and the sound from d2v is DD 5.1.
> 
> Is there any fix or I do something wrong? I have the factory installed firmware v2.04.
> 
> Thanks.




I would also like to know how to make something along these lines right in setup...


When I play a 2 channel CD from my Oppo BDP-83, it always shows up as stereo + PLXII or something like that, or Anthem Logic Music, How do I set it up so I always defaults at Stereo first, then I can change it with the Mode switching...


Same thing with other multichannel sources, I'm sure I don't have it setup proper, but I just didn't know how to set it right...


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16620675
> 
> 
> First of all, update to V2.07, although I don't think that will directly address your concern.
> 
> 
> Now, are you SURE your source is playing DD5.1? There are things you can do that will cause source devices to switch to DD2.0 even when you have selected a DD5.1 track, such as turning on commentary audio in a disc player. So the first thing to do is double check your source device settings.
> 
> 
> The D2v will take 2.0 input and raise it to 5.1 or 7.1 speaker output if you are using a surround mode such as Anthem Logic Cinema or PLIIx-Movie. So you can't judge the audio input format just by whether or not audio is coming from the surround speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Yes the source is 5.1. Sometime the source is continuously playing while I switch to another source. When I come back to the 5.1 source d2v shows DD2.0. When I turn d2v off and on then d2v shows DD 5.1.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16620691
> 
> 
> I would also like to know how to make something along these lines right in setup...
> 
> 
> When I play a 2 channel CD from my Oppo BDP-83, it always shows up as stereo + PLXII or something like that, or Anthem Logic Music, How do I set it up so I always defaults at Stereo first, then I can change it with the Mode switching...
> 
> 
> Same thing with other multichannel sources, I'm sure I don't have it setup proper, but I just didn't know how to set it right...



All you need to do is adjust your default choices in Setup > Mode Presets.


In the Mode Presets menu you can set the default audio mode for each type of input you might receive from each of your sources. This will apply when you change to that source as input. You can make manual changes from there of course and they will survive until you switch away from that input and back.


So for example I have a Source Setup for DVD playback which uses PLIIx-Movie as the default for 2.0 input from old stereo movies. "Movie" bass management mode is selected in the Source Setup menu and PLIIx-Movie is selected on the 2.0 input line of Mode Presets for that source.


Meanwhile I have a separate Source Setup for CD playback which uses Stereo as the default for 2.0 input. "Music" bass management mode (my alternate ARC configuration without the Center speaker) is selected in the Source Setup menu and Stereo is selected on the 2.0 input line of Mode Presets for that source.


Both of these happen to refer to the same, physical disc player.


There is also a "last used" Mode Presets option which retains whatever was last in effect for a given type of audio input for the previous device when you now switch to this new device as input -- i.e., that's how you set things if you DON'T want to use a Mode Preset for that type of audio from that source device.


For modes were it is relevant you can also set the default for whether or not THX audio post processing is also to be used.


See Section 3.7 of the Manual. The only confusing thing is that the Mode Presets menu will allow you to select default settings that don't actually apply to your speaker configuration (such as 7.1 surround processing choices when you only have a 5.1 speaker setup). That's OK because the D2v will use the correct subset of the surround mode when you actually select that device as input. So the confusion is that you will see choices in Mode Presets that won't actually show if you press the Mode button while listening to that source and cycle through the available choices with the Up/Down arrows. I.e., the Mode button choices at any point in time only show you what's actually available at the moment for (1) that type of audio input, and (2) your real speaker configuration, and (3) whether or not you also have THX turned on at that moment.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16620803
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Yes the source is 5.1. Sometime the source is continuously playing while I switch to another source. When I come back to the 5.1 source d2v shows DD2.0. When I turn d2v off and on then d2v shows DD 5.1.



Are you using HDMI audio input or something else from that source such as Optical digital cabling? What is the source device?


It is possible this is a firmware problem in the source device (losing track of what the D2v will accept as input, so defaulting to 2.0 when you switch back to it instead of 5.1).


In Setup > Source Setup for that source, confirm that Auto-Dig = OFF. That simplifies the process of establishing the audio when you switch inputs to that source.


When the D2v is incorrectly showing DD2.0, press Select repeatedly on the D2v remote and report each of the status messages it brings up for audio input *AND* output. Then press the Mode key once and report what it says for your current audio surround mode. Then press and hold the "7" key until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up. Scroll right to the Info panel and also report what it says for audio input. Let's see if there's some useful evidence in the D2v's status messages.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16620890
> 
> 
> Are you using HDMI audio input or something else from that source such as Optical digital cabling? What is the source device?
> 
> 
> It is possible this is a firmware problem in the source device (losing track of what the D2v will accept as input, so defaulting to 2.0 when you switch back to it instead of 5.1).
> 
> 
> In Setup > Source Setup for that source, confirm that Auto-Dig = OFF. That simplifies the process of establishing the audio when you switch inputs to that source.
> 
> 
> When the D2v is incorrectly showing DD2.0, press Select repeatedly on the D2v remote and report each of the status messages it brings up for audio input *AND* output. Then press the Mode key once and report what it says for your current audio surround mode. Then press and hold the "7" key until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up. Scroll right to the Info panel and also report what it says for audio input. Let's see if there's some useful evidence in the D2v's status messages.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I will try that.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16620828
> 
> 
> All you need to do is adjust your default choices in Setup > Mode Presets.
> 
> 
> In the Mode Presets menu you can set the default audio mode for each type of input you might receive from each of your sources. This will apply when you change to that source as input. You can make manual changes from there of course and they will survive until you switch away from that input and back.
> 
> 
> So for example I have a Source Setup for DVD playback which uses PLIIx-Movie as the default for 2.0 input from old stereo movies. "Movie" bass management mode is selected in the Source Setup menu and PLIIx-Movie is selected on the 2.0 input line of Mode Presets for that source.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile I have a separate Source Setup for CD playback which uses Stereo as the default for 2.0 input. "Music" bass management mode (my alternate ARC configuration without the Center speaker) is selected in the Source Setup menu and Stereo is selected on the 2.0 input line of Mode Presets for that source.
> 
> 
> Both of these happen to refer to the same, physical disc player.
> 
> 
> There is also a "last used" Mode Presets option which retains whatever was last in effect for a given type of audio input for the previous device when you now switch to this new device as input -- i.e., that's how you set things if you DON'T want to use a Mode Preset for that type of audio from that source device.
> 
> 
> For modes were it is relevant you can also set the default for whether or not THX audio post processing is also to be used.
> 
> 
> See Section 3.7 of the Manual. The only confusing thing is that the Mode Presets menu will allow you to select default settings that don't actually apply to your speaker configuration (such as 7.1 surround processing choices when you only have a 5.1 speaker setup). That's OK because the D2v will use the correct subset of the surround mode when you actually select that device as input. So the confusion is that you will see choices in Mode Presets that won't actually show if you press the Mode button while listening to that source and cycle through the available choices with the Up/Down arrows. I.e., the Mode button choices at any point in time only show you what's actually available at the moment for (1) that type of audio input, and (2) your real speaker configuration, and (3) whether or not you also have THX turned on at that moment.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob, I will have to revisit all this stuff in the Modes Presets area when I have a bit more time...


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16616524
> 
> 
> Your room dimensions are virtually identical to mine. (19' w x 27' l x 10' h).
> 
> 
> I wouldn't worry too much about the 100 Hz notch. It's too narrow band to be much of a problem. The wavelength at 100 Hz is about 11.5' long and thus your speakers are about 1/2 wavelength from the back wall. These speakers are I believe large flat panel full bandwidth dipoles so most likely the interaction off the back wall is where the 100 Hz notch is coming from. You could play with the distance by moving them forward or backward to see if the frequency of the notch moves, put traps behind them, or as Bob says, just take door #3 and enjoy.
> 
> 
> mk



Thanks Montekay, indeed the speakers are large flat panels full bandwidth dipoles.


For now, I am taking what Bob called Door #3. I may play/tweak some later, but I am truly enjoying all this new sound!


Thanks again Bob!!


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob. Last night I tried 2 movies with DD TrueHD and DTS Master sound tracks on Panasonic BD55 BD Player. The pcm to d2v is much clear and louder with good base extension than the Bitstream to d2v. Shouldn't they both sound the same? Am I doing something wrong or there is something I can adjust perhaps maybe the HDMI cable? But if it is cable then why pcm works fine and not Bitstream? Thanks a lot as always Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16626867
> 
> 
> Hello Bob. Last night I tried 2 movies with DD TrueHD and DTS Master sound tracks on Panasonic BD55 BD Player. The pcm to d2v is much clear and louder with good base extension than the Bitstream to d2v. Shouldn't they both sound the same? Am I doing something wrong or there is something I can adjust perhaps maybe the HDMI cable? But if it is cable then why pcm works fine and not Bitstream? Thanks a lot as always Bob.



I'm not familiar enough with the BD55 to advise what settings to check, but evidently it is screwing up its Bitstream output in some fashion.


The usual culprit in such cases is that you have made some setting in the player or in the choices on the disc menu which is causing it to use the "core" or "associated" lossy track instead of the lossless track. Typically this is due to having "secondary audio" or "menu audio" enabled.


Press Select repeatedly on the D2v remote and report what it says it is receiving for audio input. In particular, does it say it is receiving TrueHD or DD -- and does it say it is receiving DTS-HD MA or DTS?


This won't be a cable problem.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16627431
> 
> 
> I'm not familiar enough with the BD55 to advise what settings to check, but evidently it is screwing up its Bitstream output in some fashion.
> 
> 
> The usual culprit in such cases is that you have made some setting in the player or in the choices on the disc menu which is causing it to use the "core" or "associated" lossy track instead of the lossless track. Typically this is due to having "secondary audio" or "menu audio" enabled.
> 
> 
> Press Select repeatedly on the D2v remote and report what it says it is receiving for audio input. In particular, does it say it is receiving TrueHD or DD -- and does it say it is receiving DTS-HD MA or DTS?
> 
> 
> This won't be a cable problem.
> 
> --Bob



When I send Bitstream to d2v, the front panel shows the correct signal like DD TrueHD or DTS MA but sounds different than the pcm.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16627502
> 
> 
> When I send Bitstream to d2v, the front panel shows the correct signal like DD TrueHD or DTS MA but sounds different than the pcm.



Check the owner's thread for the player to see if there are other reports of a difference like this. I don't know of any settings mistakes you can make in the D2v that would result in what you are reporting, and I know from my own testing with the Oppo player that when the player is sending out the right stuff the LPCM and Bitstream for TrueHD and DTS-HD MA tracks sound the same in my 5.1 speaker system.


If it's a player problem, there should be numerous other reports by now in the player thread. While you are in there, double check that you have the latest player firmware.


If you don't find any other BD55 owner reports along these lines, send an email to Anthem tech support and see if they know what's up with this player.


NOTE: What we are talking about here is playing the same TrueHD or DTS-HD MA track with the player set to output either HDMI LPCM or HDMI Bitstream. There should be no difference when you change the HDMI output setting. However if the disc happens to ALSO have a raw (uncompressed) LPCM track, there may very well be a difference when comparing that track (which will, of course, yield HDMI LPCM output) to the lossless TrueHD or DTS-HD MA track that happens to also be on the disc. That's just due to the two tracks being mixed differently by the studio.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16627431
> 
> 
> 
> Press Select repeatedly on the D2v remote and report what it says it is receiving for audio input. In particular, does it say it is receiving TrueHD or DD -- and does it say it is receiving DTS-HD MA or DTS?
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob When playing a BluRay Disc with low loss audio such as True HD, DTS-HD MA or DTS etc on a OPPO BDP-83 thru a D2 and performing the above. What should one see displayed on the D2 screen output ?


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16627777
> 
> 
> Check the owner's thread for the player to see if there are other reports of a difference like this. I don't know of any settings mistakes you can make in the D2v that would result in what you are reporting, and I know from my own testing with the Oppo player that when the player is sending out the right stuff the LPCM and Bitstream for TrueHD and DTS-HD MA tracks sound the same in my 5.1 speaker system.
> 
> 
> If it's a player problem, there should be numerous other reports by now in the player thread. While you are in there, double check that you have the latest player firmware.
> 
> 
> If you don't find any other BD55 owner reports along these lines, send an email to Anthem tech support and see if they know what's up with this player.
> 
> 
> NOTE: What we are talking about here is playing the same TrueHD or DTS-HD MA track with the player set to output either HDMI LPCM or HDMI Bitstream. There should be no difference when you change the HDMI output setting. However if the disc happens to ALSO have a raw (uncompressed) LPCM track, there may very well be a difference when comparing that track (which will, of course, yield HDMI LPCM output) to the lossless TrueHD or DTS-HD MA track that happens to also be on the disc. That's just due to the two tracks being mixed differently by the studio.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I talked to the Anthem's Tech support and he told me there is nothing on d2v that will do wrong. It is the player's issue. I am thinking there are 2 tracks one for LPCM and one for DD TruHD or DTS MA as you said. I will also search on the forum and manual of BD player and see if I can find something new. I appreciate it Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/16627984
> 
> 
> Bob When playing a BluRay Disc with low loss audio such as True HD, DTS-HD MA or DTS etc on a OPPO BDP-83 thru a D2 and performing the above. What should one see displayed on the D2 screen output ?



The original D2 does not offer decoding of the new lossless formats, so when playing Blu-Ray with a D2 you need a player that does the decoding itself -- for example the PS3.


When set up that way the player will decode TrueHD or DTS-HD MA lossless tracks to HDMI LPCM and the input status display on the D2 will show 5.1 LPCM input -- usually at 48KHz but with some tracks that might be higher.


Now if you are playing a lossy DD5.1 or DTS track with the player still set to do the decoding you'll see THE SAME audio input status on the D2. So you have to check the playback status on the player itself to know that it is playing the DD5.1 or DTS lossy track.


If instead, you have the player set to output the Bitstream for traditional, lossy DD5.1 or DTS tracks, then the status display in the D2 will show Dolby Digital or DTS format as the input.


Since the original D2 can't decode the lossless TrueHD or DTS-HD MA tracks, if you have the player set to output HDMI Bitstream and select a track like that off the disc, most players will automatically switch to playing (as Bitstream output) the "associated" lossy DD5.1 or "core" lossy DTS track which is also on the disc for just such compatibility purposes.


Add to that that some players CAN'T do their own decoding and some players CAN'T output Bitstreams of the lossless tracks (the PS3 being the most notable example of the latter) and the combos can get pretty confusing.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16628272
> 
> 
> The original D2 does not offer decoding of the new lossless formats, so when playing Blu-Ray with a D2 you need a player that does the decoding itself -- for example the PS3.
> 
> 
> When set up that way the player will decode TrueHD or DTS-HD MA lossless tracks to HDMI LPCM and the input status display on the D2 will show 5.1 LPCM input -- usually at 48KHz but with some tracks that might be higher.
> 
> 
> Now if you are playing a lossy DD5.1 or DTS track with the player still set to do the decoding you'll see THE SAME audio input status on the D2. So you have to check the playback status on the player itself to know that it is playing the DD5.1 or DTS lossy track.
> 
> 
> If instead, you have the player set to output the Bitstream for traditional, lossy DD5.1 or DTS tracks, then the status display in the D2 will show Dolby Digital or DTS format as the input.
> 
> 
> Since the original D2 can't decode the lossless TrueHD or DTS-HD MA tracks, if you have the player set to output HDMI Bitstream and select a track like that off the disc, most players will automatically switch to playing (as Bitstream output) the "associated" lossy DD5.1 or "core" lossy DTS track which is also on the disc for just such compatibility purposes.
> 
> 
> Add to that that some players CAN'T do their own decoding and some players CAN'T output Bitstreams of the lossless tracks (the PS3 being the most notable example of the latter) and the combos can get pretty confusing.
> 
> --Bob



When I use the Bitstream on the player the d2v shows the correct format as DD TruHD or DTS MASTER on the front panel and when I check the player, it also shows the same output as DD TruHD or DTS MASTER. But the sound quality and volume of the Bitstream is lower than the PCM from the player. I talked to Panasonic a few minutes ago and they told me the d2v cannot decode the DD TruHD and DTS MASTER Bitstream as it supposed to and lowers the quality of the Bitsream.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16628533
> 
> 
> When I use the Bitstream on the player the d2v shows the correct format as DD TruHD or DTS MASTER on the front panel and when I check the player, it also shows the same output as DD TruHD or DTS MASTER. But the sound quality and volume of the Bitstream is lower than the PCM from the player. I talked to Panasonic a few minutes ago and they told me the d2v cannot decode the DD TruHD and DTS MASTER Bitstream as it supposed to and lowers the quality of the Bitsream.



The folks you talked to at Panasonic are incorrect.


Also the post you responded to was answering a question about the original D2, not your D2v.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

I know that this thread is generally a love fest about how great Anthem is about upgrades and their response to problems.


HOWEVER, it has now been a full year without an upgrade of V1.33 of the D2 firmware.


It's not as if one is isn't needed to address a few lingering problems, mostly with the HDMI hand shaking. And, Nick's replies that "it is in the works" are wearing a little thin.


They are certainly keeping up with the D2v, even though there are substantially more D2's out here.


Anthem! HELLO, is anybody there?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I can't really fault them for focussing on D2v releases right now since the initial firmware problems in the D2v were pretty nasty, and they also have a major promised feature to still get out the door (Dolby Volume).


But I agree it is time the promised V1.34 release for the D2 got finished up. My guess would be they were proving some of the HDMI changes in the D2v, and now have to port them to the older HDMI hardware in the D2 -- mainly testing time.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/16630066
> 
> 
> I know that this thread is generally a love fest about how great Anthem is about upgrades and their response to problems.
> 
> 
> HOWEVER, it has now been a full year without an upgrade of V1.33 of the D2 firmware.
> 
> 
> It's not as if one is isn't needed to address a few lingering problems, mostly with the HDMI hand shaking. And, Nick's replies that "it is in the works" are wearing a little thin.
> 
> 
> They are certainly keeping up with the D2v, even though there are substantially more D2's out here.
> 
> 
> Anthem! HELLO, is anybody there?




I'm really hoping they look into the frequency response issues I sent them before they post a new version. My issues still might be hardware problems but if any of it is firmware related and they don't fix it now then they will end up just having to release yet another version shortly after. I'm still out of the country and thus can't send Nick the setup file he needs but at least some of the issues could not be set up related.


mk


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/16627984
> 
> 
> Bob When playing a BluRay Disc with low loss audio such as True HD, DTS-HD MA or DTS etc on a *OPPO BDP-83* thru a D2 and performing the above. What should one see displayed on the D2 screen output ?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16628272
> 
> 
> The original D2 does not offer decoding of the new lossless formats, so when playing Blu-Ray with a D2 you need a player that does the decoding itself -- for example the PS3.
> 
> 
> When set up that way the player will decode TrueHD or DTS-HD MA lossless tracks to HDMI LPCM and the input status display on the D2 will show 5.1 LPCM input -- usually at 48KHz but with some tracks that might be higher.
> 
> 
> Now if you are playing a lossy DD5.1 or DTS track with the player still set to do the decoding you'll see THE SAME audio input status on the D2. So you have to check the playback status on the player itself to know that it is playing the DD5.1 or DTS lossy track.
> 
> 
> If instead, you have the player set to output the Bitstream for traditional, lossy DD5.1 or DTS tracks, then the status display in the D2 will show Dolby Digital or DTS format as the input.
> 
> 
> Since the original D2 can't decode the lossless TrueHD or DTS-HD MA tracks, if you have the player set to output HDMI Bitstream and select a track like that off the disc, most players will automatically switch to playing (as Bitstream output) the "associated" lossy DD5.1 or "core" lossy DTS track which is also on the disc for just such compatibility purposes.
> 
> 
> Add to that that some players CAN'T do their own decoding and some players CAN'T output Bitstreams of the lossless tracks (the PS3 being the most notable example of the latter) and the combos can get pretty confusing.
> 
> --Bob



Bob

You must have read over the question and missed the player I am using. So I assume the OPPO player will decode TrueHD or DTS-HD MA lossless tracks and output PCM and the input status display on the D2 will show 5.1 LPCM input -- at 48KHz.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16627502
> 
> 
> When I send Bitstream to d2v, the front panel shows the correct signal like DD TrueHD or DTS MA but sounds different than the pcm.



Make sure all your other options are the same. You probably have different matrixing options for LPCM versus Bitstream, which could result in different output sounds. I've seen cases where people didn't know what LPCM was, and they set the output to Stereo/2-channel!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/16631711
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> You must have read over the question and missed the player I am using. So I assume the OPPO player will decode TrueHD or DTS-HD MA lossless tracks and output PCM and the input status display on the D2 will show 5.1 LPCM input -- at 48KHz.



Yes, set the Oppo to HDMI LPCM output and both TrueHD and DTS-HD MA tracks will show up on your original D2 as LPCM. The channel count (2.0 vs. 5.1) and the sampling rate (48KHz or higher) will depend on how the TrueHD or DTS-HD MA track was constructed by the studio. 7.1 tracks will be down-mixed to 5.1 automatically by the Oppo (the original D2 is limited to 5.1 input). You can use a surround mode such as PLIIx in the original D2 to raise 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output if you have a 7.1 speaker setup.


Also make sure you have Secondary Audio set to OFF in the Oppo unless you are actually trying to use a disc feature that needs Secondary Audio. This keeps the Oppo from having to use the lossy "associated" or "core" audio track instead of the lossless track.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Thanks Bob and AbMagFab.

I resolved the issue of Bitstream & PCM last night. My BD55 player has an optio to enhance the dialog. That caused the front channel to receive higher volume. I turned that option off and got exact same sound from Bitstream & PCM.

Thanks again for all your help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16635400
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob and AbMagFab.
> 
> I resolved the issue of Bitstream & PCM last night. My BD55 player has an optio to enhance the dialog. That caused the front channel to receive higher volume. I turned that option off and got exact same sound from Bitstream & PCM.
> 
> Thanks again for all your help.



Great! There are so many options to check in cases like this, it can really be confusing.


----------------------------


During Beta testing for the Oppo Blu-Ray player I've done extensive comparison of the Oppo sending Bitstream to the D2v vs. the Oppo decoding to LPCM vs. the PS3 decoding to LPCM.


Whatever you might think of the PS3 as a player, one thing that's known is that it puts out proper levels and correctly decodes the vast majority of the lossless tracks.


I compared levels, and I also compared sound quality. All 3 ways are identical.


With three exceptions:


(1) The PS3 can be set to down-mix 7.1 tracks to 5.1. The D2v will do that as well of course. In my 5.1 speaker setup I found the sound quality was much improved for 7.1 tracks if I set the PS3 to output the full 7.1 LPCM to the D2v and let the D2v do the down-mix to 5.1 speakers for me. (For the original D2 you have no choice but to let the PS3 do the down-mix to 5.1 for such tracks.) NOTE: The Oppo always sends 7.1 to the D2v for such tracks, and 5.1 to the D2 -- so there's no setting you can get wrong here.


(2) The Oppo and the PS3 have DTS-HD MA "Essentials" decoders -- a limitation that only affects their decoding of traditional, lossy DTS tracks. This means they don't decode matrixed rear speaker audio for lossy DTS-ES tracks as found on some SD-DVDs. For either player, select Bitstream output of the DTS-ES track and the D2v will do this correctly. (Although the PS3 can't output Bitstream for lossless tracks, it CAN do so for lossy tracks.)


(3) The D2v does not decode the special embedded coding of HDCD audio discs. It plays them just as if they were regular CDs (HDCD coding is backward compatible with CD players). The Oppo DOES decode these discs, raising the 16-bit LPCM coming off the disc to 20-bit audio embedded in 24-bit audio to send to the D2v -- raising the dynamic range at the expense of increasing the noise floor. So when playing HDCD audio discs, use HDMI LPCM output from the Oppo to get the full dynamic range of these stereo recordings.


-------------------------------------


Also note that DTS is once again screwing up the Blu-Ray world with unnecessary complexity in DTS-HD MA. There are some new discs out there which have 5.1 DTS-HD MA tracks that are mistakenly getting decoded as 6.1 (or 7.1) because the CORE lossy DTS track embedded in there is DTS ES Matrix. Just as with the last case of this, where studios started using the "alternate speaker presentation" for surround speakers, there are DTS-HD MA decoders out there which are getting tripped up by this. And just as with that case, it is not patently obvious what the correct answer should be. So for discs screwing around with this, there will be some differences in decoding until the various decoders get their act together.


Honestly, when the AV revolution comes, DTS should be first up against the wall. /rant

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16635876
> 
> 
> Honestly, when the AV revolution comes, DTS should be first up against the wall. /rant
> 
> --Bob



AND


Now another for you to stand against the rant wall


We have HDMI 1.4 coming from Silicon Image which will make all our equipment and cabling obsolete. It does provide quite a few upgrades etc but it requires a different chip, software and cables


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes indeed. Ethernet on the HDMI Cable. I can't wait for the first questions about why does my in-house network go down every time I change channels on my cable TV box?

--Bob


----------



## RayZn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16620691
> 
> 
> I would also like to know how to make something along these lines right in setup...
> 
> 
> When I play a 2 channel CD from my Oppo BDP-83, it always shows up as stereo + PLXII or something like that, or Anthem Logic Music, How do I set it up so I always defaults at Stereo first, then I can change it with the Mode switching...
> 
> 
> Same thing with other multichannel sources, I'm sure I don't have it setup proper, but I just didn't know how to set it right...



Hi,


I am curious. Has anyone used the Oppo's DVD-AUDIO and SACD features yet? I was thinking of getting a BPD-83 if the HDMI sound output offers an improvement over my Integra DPS-9.1 which I have owned for several years now (the Integra is setup so that it sends 5.1 audio to my D2v via it's analog 5.1 outputs).


I already own a PS3 plus a Sony BDP-S5000ES which covers the Blu-Ray side of my system. Even though I still can't seem to get 7.1 DTS-MA audio bitsream to work properly from my S5000ES to the D2v (making me wish the S5000ES had an LPCM option) it has otherwise been an outstanding player.


So does the Oppo "play nice" with the Anthem D2v v2.07? Any problems with DVD-Audio or SACD playback? Will it be an improvement over what I get from my Integra or should I save my $$$ and just wait for the next Blu-Ray 3.0 spec before adding yet another player to my system.


Yup, your opinions do count here!


p.s. To the person worried about the D2 with v1.33 for over a year now. All I can say is that I also own a D2 that was just retired to spare use when I got my D2v, and I really do think that Anthem has their hands full getting all the remaining D2v glitches ironed out. I remember when I bought my D2 with the original 1.0 firmware; they worked hard to bring it up to v1.33 and there are a lot of decimal points between 1.00 and 1.33!!


Apple TV is a prime example - geeze it's HDMI didn't work with what seems like forever but Anthem support never gave up and have succeeded admirably with their firmware 2.04-2.07 on the D2v (which I understand will eventually arrive for the original D2 via a firmware 1.34 update sometime down the line).


So yea, I guess we never do get perfect "out of the box" Anthem products unless of course you purchase one well down the production line, but how much fun is that? We can always look forward to new features & improvements with no upgrade costs involved - sounds fair to me! {even if our patience wears a little thin at times }


... I must add that I feel sorry for the folks out there who don't follow Internet threads such as this and may never be aware of any of the available improvements to their Anthem purchases. Ouch!


Ray


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just thought of another Oppo vs. D2v decoding difference to add to the list.


DTS-HD MA on Blu-Ray supports up to 192KHz for 5.1 (but only up to 96KHz for 7.1). However the Oppo has a processor limit that only lets it decode up to 96KHz for 5.1 DTS-HD MA. If you set it to HDMI LPCM output for such a track you will get 96KHz.


Of course discs with 192KHz 5.1 DTS-HD MA on them are only slightly less rare than hen's teeth, but if you play one, set the Oppo to output HDMI Bitstream to the D2v and the D2v will decode the full 192KHz.


Note that this is just a decoding limit, so if you have a disc with a 192Khz raw LPCM track (which of course needs no decoding), the Oppo can output that just fine to the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ray,

SACD from the Oppo to the D2v works fine. The D2v doesn't accept DSD input so set the Oppo to SACD Output = PCM and it will send 88.2KHz to the D2v.


I've not actually tried DVD-Audio in my Oppo but I see no reason why it should have problems with the D2v. The underlying audio architecture of DVD-Audio is basically a subset of Dolby TrueHD which the Oppo decodes just fine for the D2v.


I can't really give you any useful comparison against your Integra.


---------------------------------


Have you talked to Anthem tech support about your DTS-HD MA problem with the Sony player?


What happens if you try to Bitstream that?

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

I went into my speaker calibration screen today to make some adjustments and noticed I was not getting any sound from eith my music sub setting or movie sub setting. I thought at first that this was an issue with my DD15 sub but the light was on in the front so I tried some music and TV and sure enough, it is working. Why would the Anthem not be sending a signal out to the sub through the speaker calibration? It used to work, so I'm not sure when this occured. Any hints?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16637482
> 
> 
> I went into my speaker calibration screen today to make some adjustments and noticed I was not getting any sound from eith my music sub setting or movie sub setting. I thought at first that this was an issue with my DD15 sub but the light was on in the front so I tried some music and TV and sure enough, it is working. Why would the Anthem not be sending a signal out to the sub through the speaker calibration? It used to work, so I'm not sure when this occured. Any hints?



Which Anthem processor do you have and what firmware version are you running on it?


Are you activating the sub via a trigger? Or via signal detection in the sub?


Have you changed any speaker wiring since the last time the Level Calibration menu worked with your sub?

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RayZn* /forum/post/16637336
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I am curious. Has anyone used the Oppo's DVD-AUDIO and SACD features yet? I was thinking of getting a BPD-83 if the HDMI sound output offers an improvement over my Integra DPS-9.1 which I have owned for several years now (the Integra is setup so that it sends 5.1 audio to my D2v via it's analog 5.1 outputs).
> 
> 
> I already own a PS3 plus a Sony BDP-S5000ES which covers the Blu-Ray side of my system. Even though I still can't seem to get 7.1 DTS-MA audio bitsream to work properly from my S5000ES to the D2v (making me wish the S5000ES had an LPCM option) it has otherwise been an outstanding player.
> 
> 
> So does the Oppo "play nice" with the Anthem D2v v2.07? Any problems with DVD-Audio or SACD playback? Will it be an improvement over what I get from my Integra or should I save my $$$ and just wait for the next Blu-Ray 3.0 spec before adding yet another player to my system.
> 
> 
> Yup, your opinions do count here!
> 
> 
> p.s. To the person worried about the D2 with v1.33 for over a year now. All I can say is that I also own a D2 that was just retired to spare use when I got my D2v, and I really do think that Anthem has their hands full getting all the remaining D2v glitches ironed out. I remember when I bought my D2 with the original 1.0 firmware; they worked hard to bring it up to v1.33 and there are a lot of decimal points between 1.00 and 1.33!!
> 
> 
> Apple TV is a prime example - geeze it's HDMI didn't work with what seems like forever but Anthem support never gave up and have succeeded admirably with their firmware 2.04-2.07 on the D2v (which I understand will eventually arrive for the original D2 via a firmware 1.34 update sometime down the line).
> 
> 
> So yea, I guess we never do get perfect "out of the box" Anthem products unless of course you purchase one well down the production line, but how much fun is that? We can always look forward to new features & improvements with no upgrade costs involved - sounds fair to me! {even if our patience wears a little thin at times }
> 
> 
> ... I must add that I feel sorry for the folks out there who don't follow Internet threads such as this and may never be aware of any of the available improvements to their Anthem purchases. Ouch!
> 
> 
> Ray



Yes Yes and Yes


I use a Sony XA777ES, Oppo DV983V and the Oppo BDP-83 for SACD.

All play SACD great with the D2.

The Sony and the DV983 are sending Analog 7.1 through a Zektor Mas 7.1 switch as they share a 7.1 input of the D2.

The BDP-83 is connected through HDMI.

I can state I hear only a slight difference with the Sony being slightly more center stage on 2.0 SACD.

The BDP-83 is favored over the others mainly for convenience.


Dvd-Audio plays great through the D2 with the BDP-83. No problems.

It is inconvenient to play some formats like the DVD-Audio as you need the video screen to make format and audio selections etc.

I tried the DSD and wasn't expecting anything but after a few HDMI handshake burps and hiccups it also was working. ????

Sorry but I can't compare them to your Integra or Sony units.


----------



## RayZn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16637423
> 
> 
> Ray,
> 
> SACD from the Oppo to the D2v works fine. The D2v doesn't accept DSD input so set the Oppo to SACD Output = PCM and it will send 88.2KHz to the D2v.
> 
> 
> I've not actually tried DVD-Audio in my Oppo but I see no reason why it should have problems with the D2v. The underlying audio architecture of DVD-Audio is basically a subset of Dolby TrueHD which the Oppo decodes just fine for the D2v.
> 
> 
> I can't really give you any useful comparison against your Integra.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> Have you talked to Anthem tech support about your DTS-HD MA problem with the Sony player?
> 
> 
> What happens if you try to Bitstream that?
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


The sony BDP-S5000ES will only bitstream when hooked up to the D2v since the S5000ES only has an auto-setting (or 2 ch) output option available. When hooked up to my D2the Sony would send LPCM 5.1 because the HDMI handshake determines that this is the proper output for the D2; by the same token, when hooked up to the D2v, it will automatically bitstream DTS-HD because the handshake determines that the D2v is capable of receiving this kind of signal and that is something I cannot override. I did write Nick at Anthem and he said they have a similar Sony player (BDP-350 perhaps) & that unit does not give them any problems so according to Nick the problem may be with my particular S5000ES unit.


I think it's possible that may be passing the blame since I think the D2v still has a lot of bugs in it. In fact just now my v2.07 sound went dead for all sources and did not come back up until I shutdown and powered back up the Anthem (this is the third time this has happened ever since I upgraded from v2.04 to v2.07). I am a patient man and will simply wait for whatever v2.08 has in store. Nick must be busy too since it took a couple of months to get a reply from him regarding my original email.


Just to be clear: When the SONY BDP-S5000ES bitstreams 7.1 DTS-MA to the D2v, I get constant sound drop-outs (in this mode the D2v input is indicating a received L C R SUB LS LR RR RS signal). However, if I cycle inputs on the D2v, the D2v will no longer indicate that the S5000ES audio is 7.1 but instead indicates that I am getting a 5.1 DTS-MA signal and the drop outs are gone! And no, not core dts but actual DTS-MA!


Pause the movie and it returns to 7.1 along with the return of the drop outs so I have to repeat the input cycling to get nice sound back. Of course I can always turn to my PS3 for those problem discs and let it do the DTS-MA 7.1 conversion to LPCM which is something the Sony BDP-S500OES cannot do because of its auto-setting.


Oh by the way. We talked about my Tivo HD XL regarding disappearing channels once before. I solved that problem by getting an audio-authority Coax/Optical switchbox which gave me additional optical inputs that I needed. I am now using HDMI for the Tivo's video and an optical connection for the audio. Now I have no more disappearing 5.1 channels, yippee! The best part is that the Tivo HD XL is actually more responsive in every way because there is no second HDMI handshake (for the audio) to slow things down. (Contrary to what other's might think, my over the air HD channels have never looked better, especially recorded shows on this fine THX certified Tivo).


Thanks,

Ray


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16637597
> 
> 
> Which Anthem processor do you have and what firmware version are you running on it?
> 
> 
> Are you activating the sub via a trigger? Or via signal detection in the sub?
> 
> 
> Have you changed any speaker wiring since the last time the Level Calibration menu worked with your sub?
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I have the AVM50 with v1.33. The DD15 is working on signal detection.


I have changed around my main and surround speaker wiring since the last time the level calibration worked but why would this impact the sub?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16638227
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I have the AVM50 with v1.33. The DD15 is working on signal detection.
> 
> 
> I have changed around my main and surround speaker wiring since the last time the level calibration worked but why would this impact the sub?



Double check that you don't have the sub wired to the sub2 output by mistake. Sub2 and Center2 can be alternate Zone2 outputs which could result in what you report. There are no bugs in V1.33 that I'm aware of which will cause what you are reporting.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16638528
> 
> 
> Double check that you don't have the sub wired to the sub2 output by mistake. Sub2 and Center2 can be alternate Zone2 outputs which could result in what you report. There are no bugs in V1.33 that I'm aware of which will cause what you are reporting.
> 
> --Bob



Bob: I double checked and all is ok with the wiring. I do get sound from the sub, just not when I go to the speaker calibration screen.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16638618
> 
> 
> Bob: I double checked and all is ok with the wiring. I do get sound from the sub, just not when I go to the speaker calibration screen.



Get in touch with Anthem tech support. I suspect they'll ask you to try temporarily resetting to factory defaults (with your settings saved in Saved User Settings) to eliminate the possibility you have corrupted settings data.


They may also ask you to try a re-install of the V1.33 firmware.


There are no setting mistakes I can think of which will cause the problem you report, and as I said, I know of no bugs in V1.33 that will cause this either.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16639014
> 
> 
> Get in touch with Anthem tech support. I suspect they'll ask you to try temporarily resetting to factory defaults (with your settings saved in Saved User Settings) to eliminate the possibility you have corrupted settings data.
> 
> 
> They may also ask you to try a re-install of the V1.33 firmware.
> 
> 
> There are no setting mistakes I can think of which will cause the problem you report, and as I said, I know of no bugs in V1.33 that will cause this either.
> 
> --Bob



ok Bob....thanks.


----------



## dlynch34

Any word when we might be able to upgrade from a d2 to a d2v yet?


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/16639151
> 
> 
> Any word when we might be able to upgrade from a d2 to a d2v yet?



Last I heard was that June was their timeline - here we are at June 12 ...


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/16639151
> 
> 
> Any word when we might be able to upgrade from a d2 to a d2v yet?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/16639202
> 
> 
> Last I heard was that June was their timeline - here we are at June 12 ...



I heard September.


mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The latest rumor is that Anthem has now alerted their dealers that the upgrades will commence in September. Pricing and other details are supposed to be announced "soon".

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman

Is there still the posibility of upgrading the D1 to the D2v?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes. D1 or D2 to D2v, and AVM 30 or AVM 50 to AVM 50v are all likely to be offered. We just have to wait for the details.

--Bob


----------



## peechus

Checking the status while playing Bluray shows a video input 1920x1080/59.94 & a video output 1920x1080p23.98. My display Pioneer PRO-150fd accepts 24fs. Is there a difference? I received my d2v Jan28 Am taking all this time learning this great sounding piece of gear.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16640461
> 
> 
> Yes. D1 or D2 to D2v, and AVM 30 or AVM 50 to AVM 50v are all likely to be offered. We just have to wait for the details.
> 
> --Bob



Bob your opinion


If you do not consider the new features available on the D2v that the D2 does not have.


Would you say the D2 currently has less bugs and operational problems and possibly waiting until they are eliminated in the D2v should or would be a strong consideration on having an upgrade done right away ??


Certainly at some point we know Anthem will eleviate the current D2v bugs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/16642285
> 
> 
> Checking the status while playing Bluray shows a video input 1920x1080/59.94 & a video output 1920x1080p23.98. My display Pioneer PRO-150fd accepts 24fs. Is there a difference? I received my d2v Jan28 Am taking all this time learning this great sounding piece of gear.



First of all, welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!


As to your question, yes. The difference has to do with content recorded at TV frame rates (30 or 60fps) vs. movie-stock film rates (24fps). [The slightly different numbers being reported are correct (for technical reasons), so don't let that distract you.]


You can easily raise film rates to TV rates by periodically duplicating interlaced half-frames (fields). This is how movies are prepped for broadcast on TV.


Some TVs, like yours can accept film rate content and display it at a multiple of 24fps. This is good because you don't have the duplicated fields in the video stream (which as a side effect produce a subtle jerkiness to smooth motion). Film-based movies on Blu-Ray discs are actually on disc as 1080p/24, and most Blu-Ray players have a setting which will automatically output 1080p/24 to the D2v rather than raising the film rate to TV rates (1080p/60). You should use that setting in the Blu-Ray player WHETHER OR NOT you are also sending 1080p/24 as output to your TV.


With more difficulty film rate content that has been raised to TV rates can be processed to detect and remove the duplicated fields -- leaving the original 24fps image stream. It appears that this is how you have your D2v set right now.


The problem is that you have to be careful that you are not trying to do this with content that was originally recorded at TV rates. Unlike raising film rate to TV rate, there is no useful way to lower TV rate to film rate since there is no way to know which parts of the imaging stream you can discard.


If you try to force true TV-rate content down to film-rate you will get significant stuttering in the moving imagery which will be pretty obvious.


And indeed some Blu-Ray discs -- typically "live concert" style discs -- were originally recorded with TV cameras at TV rates. They are on disc as 1080i/60.


Most Blu-Ray players will have a setting that only outputs 1080p/24 if the disc content is film-based. For TV based content the player will output either 1080i/60 (what's coming off the disc) or will de-interlace that to 1080p/60. The choice of whether or not to have the Blu-Ray player do the de-interlacing in this case, or whether to let the D2v do it for you, is another important choice in your setup. Many Blu-Ray players do not do all that good a job of de-interlacing 1080i/60 Blu-Ray content from such discs. The PS3, for example, doesn't even TRY -- you can only get 1080i/60 from it for such discs.


-----------------------------------


Since you have a display that accepts 1080p/24 input and does the right thing with it, the question arises as to how to set things up in the D2v. You have two choices. Most people set up two Video Output configurations -- one for 1080p/60 and one for 1080p/24 and then either set up two distinct Source Setup definitions for the two types of playback or switch between the Video Output choices on the fly using the remote.


An alternative -- available in the latest, V2.07, firmware for the D2v is to use the Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock = Auto setting. Set your Video Output configuration to 1080p/24 and use Frame Lock = Auto. If the input stream is 1080p/24 it will be output as 1080p/24. If the input stream is TV rate stuff (no detection of repeated fields in the input) then the D2v will automatically switch to 1080p/60 output -- i.e., the output frame rate will "lock" to the input frame rate. And finally, if the input stream is determined to be film based content (originally recorded at /24) that has been "raised" to TV rate, the D2v will attempt to process it to extract the original film rate content and output that as 1080p/24.


NOTE 1: The Video Source Adjust settings are saved separately for each input you define in Setup > Source Setup. So if you want to use Frame Lock = Auto you need to set that for each such source.


NOTE 2: The last bit above -- extracting the original /24 movie stream from /60 input -- is a "work in progress" in the V2.07 firmware. Anthem is still refining it. In addition, some source content -- particularly movies on older SD-DVD discs -- will be so badly edited that this processing is bound to have problems (which means you will get video stuttering). So have a 1080p/60 Video Output configuration set up as well and switch to that if you see annoying amounts of stuttering when playing such SD-DVD discs.


---------------------------------------------------


If all of this is too confusing to you at the moment, I suggest you set your Video Output to 1080p/60 with Frame Lock = OFF in the Video Source Adjust menu for each source. That will work fine for ALL content, although you won't be taking advantage of the ability of your display to handle film based 1080p/24 content specially.


Then you can experiment with altering the setup for one source device at a time to see how it works with different types of content.


You'll find additional information on frame rates, Frame Lock, and the "telecine" process by which movies are raised to TV rate in the first place in the collection of post links found in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/16642444
> 
> 
> Bob your opinion
> 
> 
> If you do not consider the new features available on the D2v that the D2 does not have.
> 
> 
> Would you say the D2 currently has less bugs and operational problems and possibly waiting until they are eliminated in the D2v should or would be a strong consideration on having an upgrade done right away ??
> 
> 
> Certainly at some point we know Anthem will eleviate the current D2v bugs.



I see no reason why you can't enjoy the advantages of the D2v right away even though its firmware still has bugs. In my experience there are reasonable workarounds for the bugs when they arise.


There are even some bug fixes in the D2v that are not yet available for D2 owners.


Nevertheless there are still significant bugs in the D2v -- requiring a manual workaround when they arise. And based on how fast the D2 firmware evolved, we will probably be living with some of these new D2v bugs through to early next year.


But the situation is far FAR better than what existed with the original D2v firmware when the D2v first shipped. There were significant problems in that firmware that had no useful workaround. All of that stuff has been fixed already.


So it's all about how irritating you might find it to have to check for whether a bug is biting, and having to do some workaround (e.g., cycling to a different input and back or a different audio surround mode and back) when it happens. Folks who find that too irritating will likely be happier right now with the V1.33 firmware on the original D2.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16643215
> 
> 
> I see no reason why you can't enjoy the advantages of the D2v right away even though its firmware still has bugs. In my experience there are reasonable workarounds for the bugs when they arise.
> 
> 
> There are even some bug fixes in the D2v that are not yet available for D2 owners.
> 
> 
> Nevertheless there are still significant bugs in the D2v -- requiring a manual workaround when they arise. And based on how fast the D2 firmware evolved, we will probably be living with some of these new D2v bugs through to early next year.
> 
> 
> But the situation is far FAR better than what existed with the original D2v firmware when the D2v first shipped. There were significant problems in that firmware that had no useful workaround. All of that stuff has been fixed already.
> 
> 
> So it's all about how irritating you might find it to have to check for whether a bug is biting, and having to do some workaround (e.g., cycling to a different input and back or a different audio surround mode and back) when it happens. Folks who find that too irritating will likely be happier right now with the V1.33 firmware on the original D2.



Thank you Bob for supplying a clear picture and advice on how the D2v is developing/evolving


----------



## Johnsteph10

I think I should add as well that the bugs present in the D2v are pretty minor in both number and significance when compared to the other Pre/Pros out there that can do this much. The Classe 800, for instance, is a bug ridden mess.


The new Arcam is out soon and we'll see how it stacks up. The Halo C3 as well. But neither of these have the outstanding support -- and that includes a free Bob Pariseau support service -- of Anthem CS.


----------



## Warpdrv

Bob, I have had this in the back of my mind here, but never thought to ask....


When using the scaler in the D2v or the AVM50v for that matter, is it better to use an interlaced input signal or a progressive signal before scaling up to 1080p, could you expand a bit upon the difference of what goes in to gain the best output.


2 of my sources offerings - Dish 722 (HDMI 480i, 480p 720p 1080i) and XBMC - original xbox (component 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i)


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/16643954
> 
> 
> I think I should add as well that the bugs present in the D2v are pretty minor in both number and significance when compared to the other Pre/Pros out there that can do this much. The Classe 800, for instance, is a bug ridden mess.
> 
> 
> The new Arcam is out soon and we'll see how it stacks up. The Halo C3 as well. But neither of these have the outstanding support -- and that includes a free Bob Pariseau support service -- of Anthem CS.



The Denon is really the only exception.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16644441
> 
> 
> Bob, I have had this in the back of my mind here, but never thought to ask....
> 
> 
> When using the scaler in the D2v or the AVM50v for that matter, is it better to use an interlaced input signal or a progressive signal before scaling up to 1080p, could you expand a bit upon the difference of what goes in to gain the best output.
> 
> 
> 2 of my sources offerings - Dish 722 (HDMI 480i, 480p 720p 1080i) and XBMC - original xbox (component 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i)



Not Bob


Use the highest interlaced signal and let the D2v process it to your display's native resolution.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16644441
> 
> 
> Bob, I have had this in the back of my mind here, but never thought to ask....
> 
> 
> When using the scaler in the D2v or the AVM50v for that matter, is it better to use an interlaced input signal or a progressive signal before scaling up to 1080p, could you expand a bit upon the difference of what goes in to gain the best output.
> 
> 
> 2 of my sources offerings - Dish 722 (HDMI 480i, 480p 720p 1080i) and XBMC - original xbox (component 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i)



The rule of thumb is simple: Set the source to do no processing whatsoever of the source content. Let the Anthem do all the work.


That said, there are some source devices that can do tasks like de-interlacing just fine and if you are using a source like that then you have the option of letting the source do some of the work if that's more convenient for other reasons.


To use the rule of thumb you have to know the format of the original source content. SDTV is 480i in the US regardless of the service you are using to receive your TV. HDTV is either 720p or 1080i depending on what the HDTV channel is broadcasting at the moment. All of these are /60 in the US.


SD-DVD is 480i/60 on disc in the US.


Blu-Ray is 1080p/24 on disc for movies and 1080i/60 on disc for content originally recorded with TV cameras -- "live concert" discs being the most common example.


-------------------------------


Examples of source devices that do processing well would include the Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player which does both de-interlacing and scaling quite well indeed. I have no problems telling the Oppo to output 1080p/60 to the D2v when playing SD-DVD discs for example.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

Right now both my satellite receiver and my DVD player are connected to my D2 via HDMI.

I want to be able to watch sports on TV (just the video) while listening to music being played by my DVD player.

How can I accomplish what I am trying to do?


----------



## esander3

You cannot use 2 different HDMI signals at the same time.


Hopefully your DVD player can output HDMI and standard coax/optical at the same time. if not you will need to reconfigure your DVD player to do this.


You should run a coax or optical cable from your DVD player to the D2. If you still have an un-used device on your D2, configure it in your setup to use the satellite HDMI for video and the coax or optical from the DVD player.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16644441
> 
> 
> Bob, I have had this in the back of my mind here, but never thought to ask....
> 
> 
> When using the scaler in the D2v or the AVM50v for that matter, is it better to use an interlaced input signal or a progressive signal before scaling up to 1080p, could you expand a bit upon the difference of what goes in to gain the best output.
> 
> 
> 2 of my sources offerings - Dish 722 (HDMI 480i, 480p 720p 1080i) and XBMC - original xbox (component 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i)



My 2c...


For the Dish, if you can't set it to Native, then set it to 1080i, as the D2v will clean up almost all the mess of the source, and will make 720p content look okay as well. If you watch a lot of Fox/ESPN, then you might want to set to 720p fixed. But Native is the best for any set top box.


For XBMC, I've been playing with it a lot. I've settled in on 480i, as the D2v definitely does deinterlacing much better, and it scales much much better than the XBox (and since the XBox XBMC can't do HD anyway). I lose some real estate in the UI (fonts mostly), but it's negligible, and the quality improvements of the D2v far exceed everything else.


For HTPC's, I also have converted to 1080i as output, except for BD playback where I switch to 1080p24.


Overall, I find letting the D2v do the deinterlacing is better than any source device can do, that I have (I don't have an Oppo). And deinterlacing seems to be the #1 thing that creates video anomolies, IMO. Scaling is the second most important, and the D2v is better than my VW60, and better than most source devices, so in general I like to let it do the scaling as well.


----------



## shawnwalters

Snap/Crackle/Pop -


I've noticed the snap/crackle/pop sounds from my Oppo BDP-83 go away if I bitstream to the Anthem. If the Oppo is set to PCM though, it still makes the sounds.


I still have snap/crackle/pop sounds from my Comcast Motorola HD DVR box and my Popcorn Hour A110.


----------



## AbMagFab

Anyone here use a Popcorn Hour? It looks like they finally fixed the last couple of hardware things I cared about (supporting HDMI 1.3 and full HD audio passthrough, as well as full HD video support up to 1080p60).


And it's only like $200, so I purchased one... hopefully here in a week or so.


I've gone through my XBox/XBMC phase, many phases before that, and now I'm in my HTPC phase. But TMT/PDVD really suck as players, and even something like MediaPortal ends up being a hack to get it to work right.


While I'm waiting, I was just wondering if anyone in the Anthem family of owners has used one, and what you think of it? I know I won't be able to play BD ISO's, but I'd be willing to extract the movie file from them if it means I get a wife/kid-friendly, stable, easy-to-use full media player that supports HD video and audio, at native resolutions.


Anyone have any feedback?


(I don't want to post in the PH thread as it's a much wider audience, and I'm looking for a higher-end audience's opinion.)


Thanks!


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16647831
> 
> 
> Anyone here use a Popcorn Hour? It looks like they finally fixed the last couple of hardware things I cared about (supporting HDMI 1.3 and full HD audio passthrough, as well as full HD video support up to 1080p60).
> 
> 
> And it's only like $200, so I purchased one... hopefully here in a week or so.
> 
> 
> I've gone through my XBox/XBMC phase, many phases before that, and now I'm in my HTPC phase. But TMT/PDVD really suck as players, and even something like MediaPortal ends up being a hack to get it to work right.
> 
> 
> While I'm waiting, I was just wondering if anyone in the Anthem family of owners has used one, and what you think of it? I know I won't be able to play BD ISO's, but I'd be willing to extract the movie file from them if it means I get a wife/kid-friendly, stable, easy-to-use full media player that supports HD video and audio, at native resolutions.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any feedback?
> 
> 
> (I don't want to post in the PH thread as it's a much wider audience, and I'm looking for a higher-end audience's opinion.)
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Look at the post above yours










I've have the A110 for about a week now. Did you get the A110? I'm extremely happy with it. Here's my mini review that I posted in my build thread in response to someone who asked how the PQ & AQ compares to the Oppo because he said his BD playback on his HTPC didn't look as good as the Oppo:


"Well, if it helps any - I can play the m2ts files on my computer too, output to the sim2, with the software that came with the bd drive (except for decoding hd audio formats) and the PQ is nothing like the oppo or the popcorn hour. Then again my video card in my PC is nothing special.


Anyway I think of the popcorn hour as a blu ray player, just plays the digital file on hard disc instead of a blu ray disc. I also don't resize or reformat the movie at all. On the blu ray disc, the file is a m2ts file and that's exactly what I play. And I'm only talking blu rays, because I'm sure the PCH would not upscale nearly as well (if any), as the oppo.


But yes, the video is going through my Anthem and then to my Sim2, so they may be playing a part in it. However, I have found that the Sim2 is actually so revealing that even though it makes great quality content look stunning, it also makes crappy content look horrible (example - "the shield" is almost unwatchable).


One really cool thing about the popcorn hour is the ability to "resume" the movies. (In addition of course to hitting play and the movie is on the screen in a couple seconds without even getting up!) I can stop any bd in my collection, come back and watch it next week and it starts up about 10 seconds prior to where I left off (I guess to refresh my memory).


That was such a huge pet peeve of mine with actual bds in the player. Because I stop/pause a movie pretty often because of some work problems, or the wife, or whatever. So my method before this was to text message myself with the time into the movie, so that when I started it up again I could get to it right away. That was one of the reasons I hated the pioneer, because that process was like 5 minutes lol. The oppo is great for that, but the resume of the pch is even better.


There is only one negative so far that I have found about the PCH and that is if I set the output on the PCH to 1080p24 (on blu ray 24fps content), every now and then I get some minor stutter/judder. But if I set it to 1080p60 it's fine. So I'm gonna have to research it some more to see the cause. It may just be because the external hard drive that the movies are stored on is connected to my PC. So the popcorn hour is going through my pc to the drive, which may be causing it. It's very minor and probably unnoticeable to some people, but it's something I think I can figure out.


I just ordered this HP Media Server: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16859105420 and am loading it with 4x 1.5TB or 2TB drives (man this theater is gonna six figures by the time I'm done!














). This may also fix this stutter issue too since it won't be going through the computer to an external drive anymore. I guess we'll see!


I guess I went rambling







, to answer your question, I'm not sure if the PCH really is as good as the oppo, but if it not as good it is extremely close. I played the two face scene from dark knight in my Oppo on pause and put the same scene on the PCH and just changed the inputs on the anthem and the screens looked identical to me. Whether they really are or not, the convenience of the pch for instant movie watching is pretty cool







"


----------



## Warpdrv

Thanks for your suggestions guys.... Mark, I know you have some good incite with the XBMC, so I'm very happy you chimed in here on this... It seems that when I use 480i out of the XBMC, my fonts are all super huge and I have been using 720p, but if you found a good way around this let me know, I haven't upgraded the XBMC version for quite some time (over a year), wondering if you have a good fav. release...


Appreciate it...


Patrick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16646163
> 
> 
> Right now both my satellite receiver and my DVD player are connected to my D2 via HDMI.
> 
> I want to be able to watch sports on TV (just the video) while listening to music being played by my DVD player.
> 
> How can I accomplish what I am trying to do?



Hook up Optical or Coax digital audio from the DVD player (as well as HDMI) and then you can do it by setting a Source Setup definition that uses HDMI video from the satellite box and Optical/Coax digital audio from the DVD player and selecting that Source.


[The only gotcha here is if your DVD player mutes the Optical/Coax digital audio output when you have HDMI cabled to it. There's no good reason it should do so, but some players do that.]


You can't do what you want with HDMI from both sources because HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of the HDMI video. That means the HDMI input stream has to be "processed" to extract the audio and the Anthem only has one input processing path to do that. And the HDMI from the video source HAS to be processed. Which means you can't process two different HDMI sources to get the result you want.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16647961
> 
> 
> Thanks for your suggestions guys.... Mark, I know you have some good incite with the XBMC, so I'm very happy you chimed in here on this... It seems that when I use 480i out of the XBMC, my fonts are all super huge and I have been using 720p, but if you found a good way around this let me know, I haven't upgraded the XBMC version for quite some time (over a year), wondering if you have a good fav. release...
> 
> 
> Appreciate it...
> 
> 
> Patrick



Yes, that's the negative. They're bigger (compared to 720p), but reasonable. If they're distorted or something, you might want to upgrade, or go into the font settings to make sure you're using defaults.


480i is very functional, and the fonts, while slightly larger, ultimately are fine.


In terms of release, I upgrade every few months, but I think the last release I used was around 12/08.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16647864
> 
> 
> Look at the post above yours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've have the A110 for about a week now. Did you get the A110? I'm extremely happy with it. Here's my mini review that I posted in my build thread in response to someone who asked how the PQ & AQ compares to the Oppo because he said his BD playback on his HTPC didn't look as good as the Oppo:
> 
> 
> "Well, if it helps any - I can play the m2ts files on my computer too, output to the sim2, with the software that came with the bd drive (except for decoding hd audio formats) and the PQ is nothing like the oppo or the popcorn hour. Then again my video card in my PC is nothing special.
> 
> 
> Anyway I think of the popcorn hour as a blu ray player, just plays the digital file on hard disc instead of a blu ray disc. I also don't resize or reformat the movie at all. On the blu ray disc, the file is a m2ts file and that's exactly what I play. And I'm only talking blu rays, because I'm sure the PCH would not upscale nearly as well (if any), as the oppo.
> 
> 
> But yes, the video is going through my Anthem and then to my Sim2, so they may be playing a part in it. However, I have found that the Sim2 is actually so revealing that even though it makes great quality content look stunning, it also makes crappy content look horrible (example - "the shield" is almost unwatchable).
> 
> 
> One really cool thing about the popcorn hour is the ability to "resume" the movies. (In addition of course to hitting play and the movie is on the screen in a couple seconds without even getting up!) I can stop any bd in my collection, come back and watch it next week and it starts up about 10 seconds prior to where I left off (I guess to refresh my memory).
> 
> 
> That was such a huge pet peeve of mine with actual bds in the player. Because I stop/pause a movie pretty often because of some work problems, or the wife, or whatever. So my method before this was to text message myself with the time into the movie, so that when I started it up again I could get to it right away. That was one of the reasons I hated the pioneer, because that process was like 5 minutes lol. The oppo is great for that, but the resume of the pch is even better.
> 
> 
> There is only one negative so far that I have found about the PCH and that is if I set the output on the PCH to 1080p24 (on blu ray 24fps content), every now and then I get some minor stutter/judder. But if I set it to 1080p60 it's fine. So I'm gonna have to research it some more to see the cause. It may just be because the external hard drive that the movies are stored on is connected to my PC. So the popcorn hour is going through my pc to the drive, which may be causing it. It's very minor and probably unnoticeable to some people, but it's something I think I can figure out.
> 
> 
> I just ordered this HP Media Server: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16859105420 and am loading it with 4x 1.5TB or 2TB drives (man this theater is gonna six figures by the time I'm done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). This may also fix this stutter issue too since it won't be going through the computer to an external drive anymore. I guess we'll see!
> 
> 
> I guess I went rambling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , to answer your question, I'm not sure if the PCH really is as good as the oppo, but if it not as good it is extremely close. I played the two face scene from dark knight in my Oppo on pause and put the same scene on the PCH and just changed the inputs on the anthem and the screens looked identical to me. Whether they really are or not, the convenience of the pch for instant movie watching is pretty cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "



I would like to add a couple of comments. I have the PCH, the older A100 model for about a year now. I use it a lot to stream video. The PQ and pass thru low loss audio is excellent. Some of the judder issues can be solved by using wired ethernet rather than wireless or installing a hard drive in the PCH to store your videos/movies. Do sign up for Playon it gives you additional access to sources. I was amazed how good an instant Netfix SD video using Playon looked after the D2 processed the signal. I also have the HP Media Smart server storing my audio and video files and it works fine without judder etc.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16647864
> 
> 
> Look at the post above yours



I have HTPC's all over, and they use great (well, the best available) HDMI cards, and they look and sound as good as directly from a BD player - when they work well. The problem is, they're PC's, and no matter how much I try to lock them down, they're still klunky. Plus, I have to mix-and-match software to get them to work.


And there are lots of PC-based solutions to provide resume play, and all sorts of other features. It's just that PC-based playback ultimately is too inconsistent.


So I'm assuming picture quality is identical, since it's all digital.


Now a bunch of questions (yes I ordered the 110, it just left Hong Kong):


What about HD audio? When you rip out the m2ts, are you grabbing the HD audio track as-is, or converting to FLAC? What does the Anthem say it's receiving when you play something back?


What about the main UI? How easy is it to use? How stable is it? Can your wife use it? Can a kid use it? Do you have to reboot it often, or can you just leave it on and ignore it?


Have you done any music or pictures through it?


Thanks!


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16648015
> 
> 
> Hook up Optical or Coax digital audio from the DVD player (as well as HDMI) and then you can do it by setting a Source Setup definition that uses HDMI video from the satellite box and Optical/Coax digital audio from the DVD player and selecting that Source.
> 
> 
> [The only gotcha here is if your DVD player mutes the Optical/Coax digital audio output when you have HDMI cabled to it. There's no good reason it should do so, but some players do that.]
> 
> 
> You can't do what you want with HDMI from both sources because HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of the HDMI video. That means the HDMI input stream has to be "processed" to extract the audio and the Anthem only has one input processing path to do that. And the HDMI from the video source HAS to be processed. Which means you can't process two different HDMI sources to get the result you want.
> 
> --Bob



I hooked up an optical cable to my DVD player and set the Source Setup in the D2 to that optical source but I get no sound at all. I think that I am in the "gotcha" situation that you described in your post (my DVD player is the Oppo 83 and I have it connected via HDMI as well).

Is there any workaround to this??


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16648828
> 
> 
> I have HTPC's all over, and they use great (well, the best available) HDMI cards, and they look and sound as good as directly from a BD player - when they work well. The problem is, they're PC's, and no matter how much I try to lock them down, they're still klunky. Plus, I have to mix-and-match software to get them to work.
> 
> 
> And there are lots of PC-based solutions to provide resume play, and all sorts of other features. It's just that PC-based playback ultimately is too inconsistent.
> 
> 
> So I'm assuming picture quality is identical, since it's all digital.
> 
> 
> Now a bunch of questions (yes I ordered the 110, it just left Hong Kong):
> 
> 
> What about HD audio? When you rip out the m2ts, are you grabbing the HD audio track as-is, or converting to FLAC? What does the Anthem say it's receiving when you play something back?
> 
> 
> What about the main UI? How easy is it to use? How stable is it? Can your wife use it? Can a kid use it? Do you have to reboot it often, or can you just leave it on and ignore it?
> 
> 
> Have you done any music or pictures through it?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I know what you mean about the htpcs. I decided to leave well enough alone with mine and have the hdmi out go to the sim2 and audio to the anthem. It works fine and since I mainly use the htpc for web browsing and some other non critical stuff I don't mind it not going through the Anthem.


Anyway, the PCH goes through the Anthem via hdmi, which then obviously goes through the projector. I have not tried any music, pictures or SD material on the PCH. I bought it with the sole intention of storing and replaying blu rays on demand.


The UI is nice, very user friendly. I have had no issues with it requiring a reboot or anything like that. Once it was turned on, it seems to be a set it and forget it type thing.


I rip the blu rays exactly as is. So I keep the movie m2ts file intact which has the master audio tracks. So the Anthem will say DTS MA, DTS, etc. Sound is awesome too, as you said bits are bits, so it probably sounds the same as any other blu ray player.


The only negative to keeping the movie in the native m2ts format is the size, most are 20-35gigs a piece. So lately, even though I'll have like 9TB soon of storage, I've been experimenting with extracting only the primary English core master audio track and eliminating the other language tracks, commentary etc. That usually saves me a few gigs per movie and doesn't affect the quality at all. And since I don't speak other languages or listen to the commentaries I'm not losing anything.


But the simplest way would be to just keep the m2ts file intact and then it's exactly like the BD disc. Of course there are seamless branched titles, where you'll have you'll have to use something like ToNMT to "patch" them together as one big m2ts, but you get the idea.


Once you get your YAMJ set up and set up the shares on your server or PC or whatever it's extremely easy to use. A 2 year old could use the YAMJ interface. Here's what mine looks like (I know html, so I actually changed some things since these pictures and I changed the skin, but it's the same concept):



















As I said, once it's all installed its extremely easy to use. But it's not extremely easy to set up. I'm not saying it's hard, but someone without computer experience like my wife would not be able to set it up I don't think. It even gave me quite a few headaches, but it was actually more a product of Windows Vista (I'm a mac user, vista is alien to me) on my HTPC that was giving me the headaches, not the PCH. But even with the headaches I had everything up and running within a few hours.


(sorry anthem people for the sidetrack!







)


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/16648809
> 
> 
> I would like to add a couple of comments. I have the PCH, the older A100 model for about a year now. I use it a lot to stream video. The PQ and pass thru low loss audio is excellent. Some of the judder issues can be solved by using wired ethernet rather than wireless or installing a hard drive in the PCH to store your videos/movies. Do sign up for Playon it gives you additional access to sources. I was amazed how good an instant Netfix SD video using Playon looked after the D2 processed the signal. I also have the HP Media Smart server storing my audio and video files and it works fine without judder etc.



Thanks for the info!


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16648963
> 
> 
> I rip the blu rays exactly as is. So I keep the movie m2ts file intact which has the master audio tracks. So the Anthem will say DTS MA, DTS, etc. Sound is awesome too, as you said bits are bits, so it probably sounds the same as any other blu ray player.



So do you pick an audio track when you play it? Does it properly default to English and HD audio if they exist?


I have a 15TB server (to be 30TB when the 2TB drives come down in price), so space isn't an issue. Right now, theoretically of course, I rip all my BDs to ISO's, and play them on my HTPC. I like the ISO as it has all the extras and menus, but if I could get a stable consistent device, I'd give that up and go M2TS (thus my hopes with the PCH).


Anyway, let me know about audio tracks? Then no more off-topic questions, I promise!


----------



## musica

All,


Have an AVM30 (hoping to upgrade later this year) with no HDMI inputs. I'm about to purchase the Oppo 83. Any recommendations on how to setup?


The Oppo will be replacing a Denon 2910 DVD player.


The rest of my gear...


- Samsung 6374 Plasma

- Revel F32, C32, In-all surround speakers

- Velo HGS10 Sub

- Anthem MCA50 Amp


Thanks in advance...


Mike


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16649028
> 
> 
> So do you pick an audio track when you play it? Does it properly default to English and HD audio if they exist?
> 
> 
> I have a 15TB server (to be 30TB when the 2TB drives come down in price), so space isn't an issue. Right now, theoretically of course, I rip all my BDs to ISO's, and play them on my HTPC. I like the ISO as it has all the extras and menus, but if I could get a stable consistent device, I'd give that up and go M2TS (thus my hopes with the PCH).
> 
> 
> Anyway, let me know about audio tracks? Then no more off-topic questions, I promise!



Yup it always defaults to English and the HD audio (for me so far atleast), just like if you played the disc itself. You can also select different audio tracks during playback on the fly. It will not however play BD ISO's, it will play SD ISO's, and of course the m2ts blu ray files.


I'm envious of your storage capacities


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16648932
> 
> 
> I hooked up an optical cable to my DVD player and set the Source Setup in the D2 to that optical source but I get no sound at all. I think that I am in the "gotcha" situation that you described in your post (my DVD player is the Oppo 83 and I have it connected via HDMI as well).
> 
> Is there any workaround to this??



The Oppo BDP-83 has all audio outputs active all the time so you have a settings problem somewhere. Double check that you have the optical cable plugged into the input jack in the Anthem you intended to use. Set the Oppo to Bitstream output on the Optical cable.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16649060
> 
> 
> The Oppo BDP-83 has all audio outputs active all the time so you have a settings problem somewhere. Double check that you have the optical cable plugged into the input jack in the Anthem you intended to use. Set the Oppo to Bitstream output on the Optical cable.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I am in troubleshooting mode now. I changed the Oppo to bitstream output on the optical cable, but still I get no sound.


I assigned the 6-Channel button in the D2 to play the SACD coming from the Oppo. I noticed that the D2 shows ANLDSP as the source, however, I have assigned the optical (Optical 3) as the source to the 6-Channel button.


To check if there was something wrong with the D2, I connected another optical source to the same input (Optical 3) and that worked. I also switched optical cables and that did not work.

I am thinking that for some reason the Oppo is not putting out any signal out of the optical output.


Is it normal for the D2 to show "ANLDSP" even if I have assigned a digital (optical) source to it?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/16650623
> 
> 
> Bob, I am in troubleshooting mode now. I changed the Oppo to bitstream output on the optical cable, but still I get no sound.
> 
> 
> I assigned the 6-Channel button in the D2 to play the SACD coming from the Oppo. I noticed that the D2 shows ANLDSP as the source, however, I have assigned the optical (Optical 3) as the source to the 6-Channel button.
> 
> 
> To check if there was something wrong with the D2, I connected another optical source to the same input (Optical 3) and that worked. I also switched optical cables and that did not work.
> 
> I am thinking that for some reason the Oppo is not putting out any signal out of the optical output.
> 
> 
> Is it normal for the D2 to show "ANLDSP" even if I have assigned a digital (optical) source to it?



Yes, this will happen if you have Setup > Source Setup > Auto Dig = YES and there is no audio on the digital input at the moment. For your purpose you probably want Auto Dig = NO.


Now understand that there are some forms of audio that can't be sent over the Optical digital audio cable. Normal CDs and DVDs will work just fine as will the lossy compatibility tracks from Blu-Ray discs. But the multi-channel high bandwidth LPCM from SACD discs can't be carried by the Optical cable. Use the Stereo track from the SACD discs or use the multi-channel analog connections from the Oppo.


Normally you would just use HDMI audio from the Oppo for the SACD discs (with the Oppo's SACD output set to PCM), but again you can't do that if you also want to mix that audio with HDMI video from some source.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16639014
> 
> 
> Get in touch with Anthem tech support. I suspect they'll ask you to try temporarily resetting to factory defaults (with your settings saved in Saved User Settings) to eliminate the possibility you have corrupted settings data.
> 
> 
> They may also ask you to try a re-install of the V1.33 firmware.
> 
> 
> There are no setting mistakes I can think of which will cause the problem you report, and as I said, I know of no bugs in V1.33 that will cause this either.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


How do the speaker calibration settings work within the speaker calibration setup page? Are these filters? The reason I ask is although I mentioned before that I am getting no signal from my sub when I try to select the sub calibration settings for both movie and music which are set to +3.5 and +2.0 respectively, I do get a signal to the sub when I am playing something. However, in playing a couple of movies on the weekend, the sub seemed unusually weak compared to what I thought it should be. I am running a Velodyne DD15. I even tried turnning the sub level up through the Anthem and it seems I have to turn it up to at least the settings within my calibration screen to get any sense of what I recall to be normal from my sub. It's almost as though the Anthem is not recognizing the settings and I have to overcompensate by turning the level of the sub up to at least these levels.


Do you think there is any value in trying the Sub 2 output on the Anthem?


ps. I did send an e-mail to Nick also. Hopefully I will hear back today.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16648828
> 
> 
> I have HTPC's all over, and they use great (well, the best available) HDMI cards, and they look and sound as good as directly from a BD player - when they work well. The problem is, they're PC's, and no matter how much I try to lock them down, they're still klunky. Plus, I have to mix-and-match software to get them to work.
> 
> 
> And there are lots of PC-based solutions to provide resume play, and all sorts of other features. It's just that PC-based playback ultimately is too inconsistent.
> 
> 
> So I'm assuming picture quality is identical, since it's all digital.
> 
> 
> Now a bunch of questions (yes I ordered the 110, it just left Hong Kong):
> 
> 
> What about HD audio? When you rip out the m2ts, are you grabbing the HD audio track as-is, or converting to FLAC? What does the Anthem say it's receiving when you play something back?
> 
> 
> What about the main UI? How easy is it to use? How stable is it? Can your wife use it? Can a kid use it? Do you have to reboot it often, or can you just leave it on and ignore it?
> 
> 
> Have you done any music or pictures through it?
> 
> 
> Thanks!




I agree with you HTPC are a real pain. The only reason I still use them is to watch None-region A Blu-Ray. I would not use that as a main BD player.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16652647
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> How do the speaker calibration settings work within the speaker calibration setup page? Are these filters? The reason I ask is although I mentioned before that I am getting no signal from my sub when I try to select the sub calibration settings for both movie and music which are set to +3.5 and +2.0 respectively, I do get a signal to the sub when I am playing something. However, in playing a couple of movies on the weekend, the sub seemed unusually weak compared to what I thought it should be. I am running a Velodyne DD15. I even tried turnning the sub level up through the Anthem and it seems I have to turn it up to at least the settings within my calibration screen to get any sense of what I recall to be normal from my sub. It's almost as though the Anthem is not recognizing the settings and I have to overcompensate by turning the level of the sub up to at least these levels.
> 
> 
> Do you think there is any value in trying the Sub 2 output on the Anthem?
> 
> 
> ps. I did send an e-mail to Nick also. Hopefully I will hear back today.



It sounds to me like you have a bug where the volume trims for the sub as set in Setup > Level Calibration are simply not being applied. I don't believe we've had any reports here of a similar bug -- at least not with the current firmware versions.


Try this:


1) Make sure you have your current settings saved in Saved User and/or Installer Settings.


2) Now Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video at this point you can continue using the front panel display.


3) Go into Setup > Speaker Configuration and make sure a subwoofer is specified for both Movie and Music. I believe it is included in the Factory Defaults, but double check and turn it on if you need to.


4) Now go to Setup > Level Calibration and see if you can get test tones out to the subwoofer. If you can, then there is either some unusual settings error in your normal Setup settings or your normal Setup settings have become corrupted somehow.


5) Reload Saved User Settings. Check in Movie and Music and make sure your subwoofer is still specified. Remember that if you are using ARC you must use the 1 Subwoofer setting regardless of how many subwoofers you actually have wired up. Now check in Level Calibration again and see if you have lost the ability to get test tones from the subwoofer again.


If so, grab a backup copy of your current Setup settings to a PC file (using the SettingsBackup utility found in the Utilities folder of the ARC V2.2 install kit) and email the resulting PC file to Anthem as well along with a report of what you just tested.


If it is a matter of a corrupted set of settings, Anthem may be able to fix it for you, or you can recover by reloading Factory Defaults and re-entering all of you Setup menu settings manually. Before doing that, grab a copy of your Video Source Adjust menu settings using Live Video Settings Editor utility. You'll be able to reload that menu from this PC file which will save you some time.


----------------------------------------


If you can't get the test tones even when using Factory Defaults then you may have a corrupted firmware install. Reload your current firmware on top of itself. Do this just like it was a new install. Then, while still using Factory Defaults, see if you can now get test tones from the subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob. In the Utility folder of ARC 2.2 there is a file (DSP Replacement.pdf) talks about replacing the DSP board. What is that about? Do we have to replace our DSP board? I received my unit about 2-3 weeks ago. I also want to report that after installing the ARC 2.2, redoing my ARC and uploading, I found that the Sub was perfectly adjusted by ARC and sounded great comparing to ARC 2.1 that came with my unit. the ARC 2.1 was somehow producing very low sub level.

My next question is, when I tried to update the d2v firmware, the installation suggests to load the factory default. In that case I will be loosing all my setups. Is there an easy way of updating the firmware?


I am officially anouncing that, I have no issues or problems with the d2v what so ever. Everything works great the way it supposed to be and I am loving it.










Thanks Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The DSP board replacement instructions apply only to folks who buy an ARC upgrade for the original AVM 50. Swapping in the replacement DSP board is a dealer install for those folks. And these are the instructions to the dealer's technician.


-----------------------


It is very important that you Reload Factory Defaults prior to doing a firmware install. The way you preserve your settings is to go into Setup and Save User and/or Installer Settings first. Then after the firmware install you Reload Saved User or Installer Settings which takes care of both the Setup menu and the Video Source Adjust menu. The only thing you lose are any "temporary" level settings and the like that you made with the remote because they aren't saved. For example if you Bypass the tone control settings as I do you will need to set that again after reloading your saved settings.


You can also save a backup copy of your Setup menu settings on your PC using the SettingsBackup utility. You can do the same for your Video Source Adjust menu settings using the Live Video Setup Editor utility.


The other important preliminary step prior to a firmware install is to make sure you have no powered HDMI connections from any source or display devices. Be aware that many devices keep their HDMI sockets powered even when they are Off. Since HDMI plugs are delicate, I recommend that you leave them connected and simply remove wall power from everything in your system except for the Anthem and your install PC.


-----------------------


Note that these steps are only needed for firmware installs. For example you don't need to do this stuff prior to ARC Measurements or Uploads.


However, each ARC Upload sets configuration values in your Setup menu. So once you are happy that the Upload has worked as intended, it is wise to Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture those changes.

--Bob


----------



## mludviksen

I recently received my D2V (v2.06) after placing an order on March 13th, and I'm wondering whether I should keep the Lumagen Radiance XD that I have. I believe that there are some other D2V owners that have a Radiance, and I wonder if they're happy with the combination. I believe the D2V and the Radiance share the same video processing chip, but I would expect that the Lumagen has enabled more of the features in addition to some of their proprietary algorithms. Given that my primary sources will be the Oppo Blu-Ray, DirecTV HR-23 HD Movies and AppleTV HD Rentals, do you think it's a good idea to keep the Radiance? Will the D2V offer similar video processing capabilities once it matures?


If I end up keeping the Lumagen, it seems to me that it should be attached to the D2V's HDMI output and the D2V should pass-through all video unprocessed.


I appreciate all thoughts and comments.



Regards,



Mark

Sony VPL-VW100

Anthem D2V

Lumagen Radiance XD (?)

Bryston Amplifiers

B&W 802's, HTM-1, surrounds

DirecTV HR-23, Oppo BDP-83


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16655756
> 
> 
> The DSP board replacement instructions apply only to folks who buy an ARC upgrade for the original AVM 50. Swapping in the replacement DSP board is a dealer install for those folks. And these are the instructions to the dealer's technician.
> 
> 
> -----------------------
> 
> 
> It is very important that you Reload Factory Defaults prior to doing a firmware install. The way you preserve your settings is to go into Setup and Save User and/or Installer Settings first. Then after the firmware install you Reload Saved User or Installer Settings which takes care of both the Setup menu and the Video Source Adjust menu. The only thing you lose are any "temporary" level settings and the like that you made with the remote because they aren't saved. For example if you Bypass the tone control settings as I do you will need to set that again after reloading your saved settings.
> 
> 
> You can also save a backup copy of your Setup menu settings on your PC using the SettingsBackup utility. You can do the same for your Video Source Adjust menu settings using the Live Video Setup Editor utility.
> 
> 
> The other important preliminary step prior to a firmware install is to make sure you have no powered HDMI connections from any source or display devices. Be aware that many devices keep their HDMI sockets powered even when they are Off. Since HDMI plugs are delicate, I recommend that you leave them connected and simply remove wall power from everything in your system except for the Anthem and your install PC.
> 
> 
> -----------------------
> 
> 
> Note that these steps are only needed for firmware installs. For example you don't need to do this stuff prior to ARC Measurements or Uploads.
> 
> 
> However, each ARC Upload sets configuration values in your Setup menu. So once you are happy that the Upload has worked as intended, it is wise to Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture those changes.
> 
> --Bob



So after updated the firmware I can reload the user or installer settings and the ARC will be uploaded as well and I don't need to upload the ARC again?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16656026
> 
> 
> So after updated the firmware I can reload the user or installer settings and the ARC will be uploaded as well and I don't need to upload the ARC again?



The special Room Correction data ARC Uploads is not altered by Reload Factory Defaults or Reload Saved User/Installer Settings or even a firmware install. Just the configuration stuff it puts in the Setup menu is affected by those and Reloading your saved settings takes care of that (presuming you saved your settings after Uploading the ARC results in the first place).


So no you don't really need to re-Upload ARC results after a firmware install, although I always do it as a matter of course anyway after a firmware install "just in case".

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16656274
> 
> 
> The special Room Correction data ARC Uploads is not altered by Reload Factory Defaults or Reload Saved User/Installer Settings or even a firmware install. Just the configuration stuff it puts in the Setup menu is affected by those and Reloading your saved settings takes care of that (presuming you saved your settings after Uploading the ARC results in the first place).
> 
> 
> So no you don't really need to re-Upload ARC results after a firmware install, although I always do it as a matter of course anyway after a firmware install "just in case".
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mludviksen* /forum/post/16655979
> 
> 
> I recently received my D2V (v2.06) after placing an order on March 13th, and I'm wondering whether I should keep the Lumagen Radiance XD that I have. I believe that there are some other D2V owners that have a Radiance, and I wonder if they're happy with the combination. I believe the D2V and the Radiance share the same video processing chip, but I would expect that the Lumagen has enabled more of the features in addition to some of their proprietary algorithms. Given that my primary sources will be the Oppo Blu-Ray, DirecTV HR-23 HD Movies and AppleTV HD Rentals, do you think it's a good idea to keep the Radiance? Will the D2V offer similar video processing capabilities once it matures?
> 
> 
> If I end up keeping the Lumagen, it seems to me that it should be attached to the D2V's HDMI output and the D2V should pass-through all video unprocessed.
> 
> 
> I appreciate all thoughts and comments.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> 
> Mark
> 
> Sony VPL-VW100
> 
> Anthem D2V
> 
> Lumagen Radiance XD (?)
> 
> Bryston Amplifiers
> 
> B&W 802's, HTM-1, surrounds
> 
> DirecTV HR-23, Oppo BDP-83


*SELL IT SELL IT SELL IT*


No One needs two video processors. Multiple processing only makes things worse not better


----------



## dimitris2u

I would like to see the software used for doing the video calibrations, and get an idea of the gamma correction features. Where can we download it from?


----------



## FilmMixer

Quick question... sorry if I missed it guys in the 22800 posts







...


Will the D2v pass through HDMI video (last selected) when off?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/16657444
> 
> 
> Quick question... sorry if I missed it guys in the 22800 posts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> Will the D2v pass through HDMI video (last selected) when off?



Nope. Nor any of the other signals.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dimitris2u* /forum/post/16656670
> 
> 
> I would like to see the software used for doing the video calibrations, and get an idea of the gamma correction features. Where can we download it from?



There's no Anthem software specifically dealing with video calibration (in the sense of measurement tools for driving an optical sensor).


The Live Video Settings Editor utility allows you to adjust video settings "on the fly" (i.e., while viewing a source). The same utility allows you to define and upload custom video output timings and also custom gamma correction curves.


The custom gamma correction curves can either be a single (gray scale) curve or separate curves for R, G, and B.


The Live video Settings Editor utility is a Windows PC program. You'll find it in the Utilities folder of the ARC install kit. You can download the ARC V2.2 install kit from Anthem's public download pages. For example, from:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


In use, the utility communicates with the Anthem processor via a serial connection.


With the exception of custom video timings and custom gamma correction curves, all of the other video adjustments are done in the Anthem Setup and Video Source Adjust menus. For details, see the Manual:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...al/D2v_OM.html 


Also see the collection of post links found in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16651646
> 
> 
> Now understand that there are some forms of audio that can't be sent over the Optical digital audio cable. Normal CDs and DVDs will work just fine as will the lossy compatibility tracks from Blu-Ray discs. But the multi-channel high bandwidth LPCM from SACD discs can't be carried by the Optical cable. Use the Stereo track from the SACD discs or use the multi-channel analog connections from the Oppo.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, you hit it right on. Indeed, the problem was with the multichannel SACD signal not being able to go through the optical cable. I have decided to use my digital server as the source instead of the Oppo and it works fine. I can now watch sports (with no sound) while I listen to music.

Thanks!


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16649056
> 
> 
> Yup it always defaults to English and the HD audio (for me so far atleast), just like if you played the disc itself. You can also select different audio tracks during playback on the fly. It will not however play BD ISO's, it will play SD ISO's, and of course the m2ts blu ray files.
> 
> 
> I'm envious of your storage capacities



Well, as far as I can tell, the PCH is a piece of junk if you want network streaming from a file server.


Nothing works with it at all. I'm assuming it will only start working if I install a local hard drive, but that sort of defeats the purpose of it, and my HTPC will work better.


So far:


1) Nothing works - I can't mount any drive from my file server. It sees my network, let's be browse to the server, but won't see any shares.


2) I tried manually setting up an SMB share, and it just never appears anywhere.


3) It's slow as dog poop. Just clicking around the menus is like watching honey pour out of a jar, only less interesting.


4) The UI is awful. It's like some third-grader designed it.


5) The overscan is REDICULOUS! It's got buttons literally inches off the screen on the right. And I have my overscan on my display set to almost nothing, so I have no idea what it's doing. (This is with just the menus, since I can't get a damned thing to play.)


Anyway, I'll try a little bit longer, but unless there's some fundamental thing I'm missing, I'm done with this piece of junk!


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16658583
> 
> 
> Well, as far as I can tell, the PCH is a piece of junk if you want network streaming from a file server.
> 
> 
> Nothing works with it at all. I'm assuming it will only start working if I install a local hard drive, but that sort of defeats the purpose of it, and my HTPC will work better.
> 
> 
> So far:
> 
> 
> 1) Nothing works - I can't mount any drive from my file server. It sees my network, let's be browse to the server, but won't see any shares.
> 
> 
> 2) I tried manually setting up an SMB share, and it just never appears anywhere.
> 
> 
> 3) It's slow as dog poop. Just clicking around the menus is like watching honey pour out of a jar, only less interesting.
> 
> 
> 4) The UI is awful. It's like some third-grader designed it.
> 
> 
> 5) The overscan is REDICULOUS! It's got buttons literally inches off the screen on the right. And I have my overscan on my display set to almost nothing, so I have no idea what it's doing. (This is with just the menus, since I can't get a damned thing to play.)
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'll try a little bit longer, but unless there's some fundamental thing I'm missing, I'm done with this piece of junk!



LOL - I don't want to defend it, if you don't like it return it!


Re the shares - I had several problems with that too, but it was a problem with Windows Vista and all of it's hidden settings. To get mine to work took about 10 changes, but basically disabling UAC, creating a guest account etc. I'm told XP is much easier to get setup.


As for the network streaming from a file server, that's what most people do with it, so it does work. As for the speed and overscan, I dunno maybe something is off with yours. I don't have any issues with speed. Sure, after I hit the save button on changing the video settings it loads for like 2 seconds, but I don't consider that slow. And no issues with overscan either, mine is just like hdmi out from a BD player. Are you going through your HTPC or something?


I'm also curious how you got it so quick. There is a 3-4 week backlog right now unless you order from a known ebayer who buys them and then resells for more $$. There's warnings on the NMT website about fake PCH's being sold.


Anyway, I wouldn't give up yet, but the slowness factor you mentioned makes me think your unit might be defective. How slow is it? Also make sure you have the latest firmware.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16658730
> 
> 
> LOL - I don't want to defend it, if you don't like it return it!
> 
> 
> Re the shares - I had several problems with that too, but it was a problem with Windows Vista and all of it's hidden settings. To get mine to work took about 10 changes, but basically disabling UAC, creating a guest account etc. I'm told XP is much easier to get setup.
> 
> 
> As for the network streaming from a file server, that's what most people do with it, so it does work. As for the speed and overscan, I dunno maybe something is off with yours. I don't have any issues with speed. Sure, after I hit the save button on changing the video settings it loads for like 2 seconds, but I don't consider that slow. And no issues with overscan either, mine is just like hdmi out from a BD player. Are you going through your HTPC or something?
> 
> 
> I'm also curious how you got it so quick. There is a 3-4 week backlog right now unless you order from a known ebayer who buys them and then resells for more $$. There's warnings on the NMT website about fake PCH's being sold.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I wouldn't give up yet, but the slowness factor you mentioned makes me think your unit might be defective. How slow is it? Also make sure you have the latest firmware.



I ordered it from the NMT website a week ago. It shipped from China on Friday, and got here today.


If I have to tur Guest accounts on, and make all my shares accessible to the world, this thing is pointless. I'm not going to expose my primary file server just to stream files.


Junk I say! I can't believe I fell for it... I took a look at this a while back and concluded it was junk, and I just made an impulse purchase since it looked improved... But it's not...


Sadly, it's the same junk it's always been, I should listen to myself more often... If anyone wants it, PM me!


----------



## rmarcoot

I attempted to turn on my D2 tonight and am not getting any power to it. The D2 runs through a surge protector/power conditioner that has not kicked off. Everything else plugged into the conditioner is doing fine. I also tried plugging the D2 directly into the wall with not success.


Any suggestions?


TIA,

Randy


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16658780
> 
> 
> I ordered it from the NMT website a week ago. It shipped from China on Friday, and got here today.
> 
> 
> If I have to tur Guest accounts on, and make all my shares accessible to the world, this thing is pointless. I'm not going to expose my primary file server just to stream files.
> 
> 
> Junk I say! I can't believe I fell for it... I took a look at this a while back and concluded it was junk, and I just made an impulse purchase since it looked improved... But it's not...
> 
> 
> Sadly, it's the same junk it's always been, I should listen to myself more often... If anyone wants it, PM me!



Sorry if I swayed you to buy it then. Well I guess if you bought it last week, I only reaffirmed your purchase since it was already bought. Anyway, for me as a movie player for BD's that play just like a disc, with the cool YAMJ GUI I posted that are instantly playable, I think it's an awesome little machine.


It is hard to setup though. The guest account is just how I did it since I have no other files except for BDs. There is a spot to enter in a username in password in the shares, so you can use that too. As for the GUI, once you load a YAMJ in you really have no need to use the factory UI unless you want to update firmware or something.


Anyway, seems like you've made up your mind. I would return it for a refund or sell it. There are other devices out there like the PCH that you might wanna look into. Unfortunately when I was looking around I was told the PCH was the best of it's kind. Which is kind of depressing seeing as it's only $250. Someone's gotta make something more high end...Anthem maybe?







I guess there's Kaleidoscope!


(and sorry again for the sidetrack on the tweaking thread







)


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16658583
> 
> 
> Well, as far as I can tell, the PCH is a piece of junk if you want network streaming from a file server.
> 
> 
> Nothing works with it at all. I'm assuming it will only start working if I install a local hard drive, but that sort of defeats the purpose of it, and my HTPC will work better.
> 
> 
> So far:
> 
> 
> 1) Nothing works - I can't mount any drive from my file server. It sees my network, let's be browse to the server, but won't see any shares.
> 
> 
> 2) I tried manually setting up an SMB share, and it just never appears anywhere.
> 
> 
> 3) It's slow as dog poop. Just clicking around the menus is like watching honey pour out of a jar, only less interesting.
> 
> 
> 4) The UI is awful. It's like some third-grader designed it.
> 
> 
> 5) The overscan is REDICULOUS! It's got buttons literally inches off the screen on the right. And I have my overscan on my display set to almost nothing, so I have no idea what it's doing. (This is with just the menus, since I can't get a damned thing to play.)
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'll try a little bit longer, but unless there's some fundamental thing I'm missing, I'm done with this piece of junk!



Sorry for the OT guys but I thought I would respond. You must have missed something when setting up your shares. I can stream from every computer on my network as well as the HP Media Smart server using SMB. You don't have to mount the shares you set them up with IP adresses and they appear in the GUI.


I admit the UI is not pretty. More like using Windows Explorer. Check the PCH Wiki or their forum page for info.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/16658855
> 
> 
> I attempted to turn on my D2 tonight and am not getting any power to it. The D2 runs through a surge protector/power conditioner that has not kicked off. Everything else plugged into the conditioner is doing fine. I also tried plugging the D2 directly into the wall with not success.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Randy



Start with the basics: Make sure the power cord is fully inserted in the back of the D2. Make sure you didn't accidentally turn off the rear panel power switch -- switch it to Off and back to On to be sure.


Try turning on the D2 using the "Main" button on the lower right of the front panel, just in case the problem is with your remote -- low batteries or whatever.


If that doesn't get you going then you need to get more serious. Disconnect everything from the D2 except for the power cord, just in case the problem is a shorted connector. Move the D2 to a different room with a separate power circuit, just in case you are having some sort of voltage problem on your normal power circuit.


If you still can't get it to power up then there's nothing for it but to give Anthem tech support a call.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/16658944
> 
> 
> Sorry for the OT guys but I thought I would respond. You must have missed something when setting up your shares. I can stream from every computer on my network as well as the HP Media Smart server using SMB. You don't have to mount the shares you set them up with IP adresses and they appear in the GUI.
> 
> 
> I admit the UI is not pretty. More like using Windows Explorer. Check the PCH Wiki or their forum page for info.



Well, I had to turn password protected browsing off. I was able to undo all the Guest settings. Not sure why this needs to be turned off though, as everything else is now password protected.


Anyway, the UI is really bad. Trying to get a ripped BD MKV to play now, my previous FLAC one's won't play.


I don't think I can use YAMJ, as I need ISO playback for SD DVD's, and that won't do it? Also, it won't run on Windows 7 (and I'm not installing it on my file server).


Anyway, I'll hold off judgement for a little bit, especially since it plays my AVCHD 24mb/s home movies really well, better than any device so far (those are the toughest ones usually).


Now if I could find if it does playlists...


----------



## rmarcoot

Bob -


Thanks for your response. Please see comments below.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16659053
> 
> 
> Start with the basics: Make sure the power cord is fully inserted in the back of the D2. Make sure you didn't accidentally turn off the rear panel power switch -- switch it to Off and back to On to be sure.
> 
> 
> 
> Try turning on the D2 using the "Main" button on the lower right of the front panel, just in case the problem is with your remote -- low batteries or whatever.
> 
> I have tried all of the above
> 
> 
> If that doesn't get you going then you need to get more serious. Disconnect everything from the D2 except for the power cord, just in case the problem is a shorted connector. I will give this a try. Move the D2 to a different room with a separate power circuit, just in case you are having some sort of voltage problem on your normal power circuit. I will also try this although everything else on this circuit is working.
> 
> 
> If you still can't get it to power up then there's nothing for it but to give Anthem tech support a call. I am afraid this is where I will end up.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16659074
> 
> 
> Well, I had to turn password protected browsing off. I was able to undo all the Guest settings. Not sure why this needs to be turned off though, as everything else is now password protected.
> 
> 
> Anyway, the UI is really bad. Trying to get a ripped BD MKV to play now, my previous FLAC one's won't play.
> 
> 
> I don't think I can use YAMJ, as I need ISO playback for SD DVD's, and that won't do it? Also, it won't run on Windows 7 (and I'm not installing it on my file server).
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'll hold off judgement for a little bit, especially since it plays my AVCHD 24mb/s home movies really well, better than any device so far (those are the toughest ones usually).
> 
> 
> Now if I could find if it does playlists...



I think you should read this and go to the Wiki below:

*How do I get NFS/SMB/UPNP AV Server functions from the NMT?*

You need to install an internal HDD and the NMT apps in order to get the following servers:


1. SMB server

2. NFS server

3. UPnP AV server

4. myiHome server

5. FTP server

6. Torrent downloader

7. Usenet downloader



http://www.networkedmediatank.com/wiki/index.php/Network_Configuration 


Get a small SATA drive so the NMT applications can run. Takes 5 minutes to install


Stew


----------



## mludviksen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16656509
> 
> *SELL IT SELL IT SELL IT*
> 
> 
> No One needs two video processors. Multiple processing only makes things worse not better



I agree that I wouldn't want both video processors active at the same time. I was just wondering if I should pass-thru from the D2V (unprocessed) and let the Lumagen do all of the work.


I looked into it a bit further last night, and it looks like the D2V uses the GF9452 VXP video processer chip while the Lumagen Radiance XD uses the GF9450. The GF9452 is 12-bit versus 10-bit on the GF9450 and it also adds several additional features including better cadence detection. Bottom line is that the D2V has a better chip in it so it's really just a matter of the software. I trust that Anthem will maximize the use of the GF9452 chip in the D2V over time, so it's probably best that I sell the Lumagen as you suggested.



Regards,



Mark


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mludviksen* /forum/post/16661217
> 
> 
> I agree that I wouldn't want both video processors active at the same time. I was just wondering if I should pass-thru from the D2V (unprocessed) and let the Lumagen do all of the work.
> 
> 
> I looked into it a bit further last night, and it looks like the D2V uses the GF9452 VXP video processer chip while the Lumagen Radiance XD uses the GF9450. The GF9452 is 12-bit versus 10-bit on the GF9450 and it also adds several additional features including better cadence detection. Bottom line is that the D2V has a better chip in it so it's really just a matter of the software. I trust that Anthem will maximize the use of the GF9452 chip in the D2V over time, so it's probably best that I sell the Lumagen as you suggested.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



I would sell it too. I don't think the anthem has a setting to pass through video untouched anyway, just fyi.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16659074
> 
> 
> Well, I had to turn password protected browsing off. I was able to undo all the Guest settings. Not sure why this needs to be turned off though, as everything else is now password protected.
> 
> 
> Anyway, the UI is really bad. Trying to get a ripped BD MKV to play now, my previous FLAC one's won't play.
> 
> 
> I don't think I can use YAMJ, as I need ISO playback for SD DVD's, and that won't do it? Also, it won't run on Windows 7 (and I'm not installing it on my file server).
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'll hold off judgement for a little bit, especially since it plays my AVCHD 24mb/s home movies really well, better than any device so far (those are the toughest ones usually).
> 
> 
> Now if I could find if it does playlists...



I don't think YAMJ will work with ISO's. Be warned though, I don't think it does any upconverting so quality on SD's may be not so good. So the best for those may be to set the output to 480i and let the anthem do it's thing. I haven't done any SD's though, so I can't confirm any of this. Maybe Stew has experience with SD's. Be sure you don't choose "Auto" resolution on the PCH, set it to 1080p for BD's and whatever you want for SD's.


I agree the factory UI is pretty basic, but then again so is the Anthem Setup UI







That's why I installed a YAMJ as it's so much more pleasing to use. I really don't like the factory "Buffering" screen when you first hit play, I wish there was a way to change that too! There's also a new PCH model coming out soon that is rumored to have a better GUI. If it really is better, I may have to move the a110 to the master bedroom and get the new one for the HT!


----------



## Alembicjeff

Hey guys,


My D2v will be in my rack by Thursday, June 18, 2009 after placing my order on April 9. Please note that for those of you still waiting, my order was for a 17" non-rackmount version which I understand takes longer to produce than the standard 19" version.


Now it will be my turn to ask Bob questions that he and others here have asked and answered many times before!










Jeff.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mludviksen* /forum/post/16661217
> 
> 
> so it's probably best that I sell the Lumagen as you suggested.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



While you still can - outboard dedicated Video Processors are a Dinosaur - if not now - SOON!


I sold my DVDO VP50 two years ago. It helped pay for 1/2 of my D2.


----------



## dimitris2u

Does the Anthem have the advanced color management that the Lumagen have? I have a Radiance too, and I would be interested in getting some cash back by selling it and ordering the D2v instead.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dimitris2u* /forum/post/16661880
> 
> 
> Does the Anthem have the advanced color management that the Lumagen have? I have a Radiance too, and I would be interested in getting some cash back by selling it and ordering the D2v instead.



I don't think so - It has some but probably not as good.


In my opinion today's Displays and PJs are so good - you

don't use it unless you are still running a CRT PJ.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dimitris2u* /forum/post/16661880
> 
> 
> Does the Anthem have the advanced color management that the Lumagen have? I have a Radiance too, and I would be interested in getting some cash back by selling it and ordering the D2v instead.



It does not.


Personally, I think it is important to get a display that doesn't need an external solution for CMS.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alembicjeff* /forum/post/16661433
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> My D2v will be in my rack by Thursday, June 18, 2009 after placing my order on April 9. Please note that for those of you still waiting, my order was for a 17" non-rackmount version which I understand takes longer to produce than the standard 19" version.
> 
> 
> Now it will be my turn to ask Bob questions that he and others here have asked and answered many times before!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff.



If I haven't said it before, welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!


And don't forget to check out the collection of tutorial post links found in the first post of this thread -- what I like to call, "The Good Parts Version".

--Bob


----------



## dimitris2u

Bob,


one more question. How many points for gamma correction does one have when creating a custom curve?


----------



## dimitris2u




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mludviksen* /forum/post/16661217
> 
> 
> I agree that I wouldn't want both video processors active at the same time. I was just wondering if I should pass-thru from the D2V (unprocessed) and let the Lumagen do all of the work.
> 
> 
> I looked into it a bit further last night, and it looks like the D2V uses the GF9452 VXP video processer chip while the Lumagen Radiance XD uses the GF9450. The GF9452 is 12-bit versus 10-bit on the GF9450 and it also adds several additional features including better cadence detection. Bottom line is that the D2V has a better chip in it so it's really just a matter of the software. I trust that Anthem will maximize the use of the GF9452 chip in the D2V over time, so it's probably best that I sell the Lumagen as you suggested.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



I love the idea of selling my scaler, but has anybody done an actual comparison?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dimitris2u* /forum/post/16662440
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> one more question. How many points for gamma correction does one have when creating a custom curve?



Download the ARC V2.2 install kit from Anthem's public download page and play with the Live Video Settings Editor found in the Utilities folder. This is a Windows PC application. You'll soon see what you can set up. You don't actually have to install the ARC application itself or do any installation for the Live Video Settings Editor -- just run it straight out of the Utilities folder after unzipping the download.

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


["Cancel" when it asks about setting the Baud Rate (since you are not actually connected to an Anthem unit) and then look under Advanced Video Settings at the bottom of the left hand column. Instructions are on screen. Check out the Curve Generator button for establishing a smooth curve as your starting point. You can then tweak from there.]


In actual use, you would build the curves and Upload them to the Anthem (via a Serial cable). They then become selectable as the Custom Gamma Correction options (either single gray scale or separate RGB) as an alternative to the straightforward Exponential Gamma Correction setting which can be set without needing to use the utility.


The time consuming part is iterating between taking measurements with your optical sensor and adjusting the curves for the next try.


One of the posters here posted a step by step of how he did it so you might try using the Search function on this thread looking for that.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dimitris2u* /forum/post/16662440
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> one more question. How many points for gamma correction does one have when creating a custom curve?



As someone who has OWNED and TUNED CRT PJs since the very first

Henry Kloss Novabeam PJ - 1979 - the Color correction if needed SHOULD

always be done in the PJ or the Display. Doing it outboard is always the

wrong way. No matter how good the VP is - it gets things wrong.


I'm not saying it doesn't correct for some things that might NEED correction

but doing it inboard is the *right way.*

*That is why I agree with BOB.* Get a display that does not need it or does it internally.


AND SELL your VP ASAP


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16661637
> 
> 
> While you still can - outboard dedicated Video Processors are a Dinosaur - if not now - SOON!
> 
> 
> I sold my DVDO VP50 two years ago. It helped pay for 1/2 of my D2.



I did the same.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16662071
> 
> 
> It does not.
> 
> 
> Personally, I think it is important to get a display that doesn't need an external solution for CMS.
> 
> --Bob



Exact the JVC RS2 is agood example of this where a good external scaler is a must but even that cannot solve all the issues.


JVC finally learned and come up with the amazing RS20.









Believe me with that projector you don't need a VP50.


Connected to the D2 and with the latest DTS MA decoding software from Pioneer on my 05. Just an amazing experience...


The $$$ I was giving every years to DVDO is now better spent on better projector and better audio.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16661637
> 
> 
> While you still can - outboard dedicated Video Processors are a Dinosaur - if not now - SOON!
> 
> 
> I sold my DVDO VP50 two years ago. It helped pay for 1/2 of my D2.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/16663325
> 
> 
> I did the same.



Yes - but I went you one better. I also SOLD my Lexicon MC12b and

the VP50 and got my D2 for FREE with Enough money left over to buy

my Toshiba HD-DVD player.


The Toshiba was the ONLY MISTAKE I made


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16661272
> 
> 
> I don't think YAMJ will work with ISO's. Be warned though, I don't think it does any upconverting so quality on SD's may be not so good. So the best for those may be to set the output to 480i and let the anthem do it's thing. I haven't done any SD's though, so I can't confirm any of this. Maybe Stew has experience with SD's. Be sure you don't choose "Auto" resolution on the PCH, set it to 1080p for BD's and whatever you want for SD's.
> 
> 
> I agree the factory UI is pretty basic, but then again so is the Anthem Setup UI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's why I installed a YAMJ as it's so much more pleasing to use. I really don't like the factory "Buffering" screen when you first hit play, I wish there was a way to change that too! There's also a new PCH model coming out soon that is rumored to have a better GUI. If it really is better, I may have to move the a110 to the master bedroom and get the new one for the HT!



YES


PCH c200-media-box-is-blu-ray-and-anything-else


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks who read German, here's another D2v (and P5) review, this one dated May 26:

http://www.areadvd.de/lm/AV_Hardware...entd2p51.shtml 


And I believe this is the German distributor, showing a D2v list price of 8750 Euros:

http://www.audiotra.de/index.php?idcatside=161 


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


For those who DON'T read German, here's what Yahoo Babel Fish makes of their conclusions:



> Quote:
> For the home cinema enthusiast a dream goes into fulfillment with the Anthem statement D2v: the required sound quality catapults the canvas happening with an absolutely uncompromising intensity into the own four walls and lets the auditory directly with the film merge. Here even smallest Surroundeffekte with captivating precision is illuminated, while with bass-intensive sequences almost elemental powers are released on the loudspeakers. The Duett from D2v and P5 occupies impressively, which increases themselves are still possible opposite AV-Boliden. Owing to HDMI1.3 implementation the advantages from High definition soundtrack can be exhausted completely, particularly since also the gigantic connection assembly with the 8 in as well as 2 future-pilotresembled itself exits as unrestricted proves. The preliminary stage possesses its strengths not only regarding multi-channel audio, but umgarnt its owner also with a visually convincing achievement. The integrated video processor offers immaculate achievements and provides for captivating image quality. Only regarding automode a software update is urgently necessary, in order to eliminate appropriate nose. Otherwise one must note however that the extensive adjustment options and dissolutions of the video section look for their-same - no other equipment, including the Denon AVP-A1HDA can keep up in this connection in its whole. This brings us however to a central disadvantage to that statement D2v: due to the immense configuration options the convenientness unfortunately lies on no record-suspicious level. The overloaded remote maintenance can provide also no relief here, so that the preliminary stage addresses itself mainly to experienced users with high technical Background. This clientele will be able itself to out-rave at the remaining equipment with joy: begun (of thereby the exemplary however at the same time) the preliminary stage an extremely large range holds very complex bass management ready up to the PC-supported space measuring of features. Who itself not when specialist would designate, but nevertheless desire on the audiovisual arts of a Anthem statement combination felt, should hold for an optimum installation after a specialist and/or very competent specialist dealer look out.
> 
> 
> Not less impressing: the powerful multi-channel final stage P5. It dissociates the majority at competitors with playful ease, since it belongs to the few models, which can offer a fascinatingly balanced mixture from Kraft and Ahtletik. She makes music in such a manner neutrally, fine-drawing and momentumful that we her even very fastidious Stereo listeners heedlessly (e.g. as Bi-Amping) to recommend know final stage. With its 5 channels it does not order over the variability of a Denon POA-A1HDA, but in the daily employment it counters for it with its completely passive building method and does not make their owner nervous not with disturbing exhaust noises.
> 
> 
> Acquaintance measures has quality its price. And does not fail with 17,500 euros indeed low, so that probably only a small clientele might be addressed of this product. Opposite of more favorable AV-receivers/Boliden, those can justify partial all right tidy acoustic achievements statement combination the necessary investment by the repeated increased sound quality without problems (if an appropriate infrastructure is given). Nevertheless one gets no 300% sound increase in relation naturally to equipment with a third of the purchase price. High ending means now times that a very large expenditure is operated, over also the last refinement herauszukitzeln - and exactly this applies also on the Anthem statement combination. In the comparison to the competition the American manufacturer defines itself material battle less by affectionate housing processing, than rather in form a High Tech inside the devices. Who closed this conceptual adjustment into its heart (and/or home cinema), statement D2v and P5 receives one equally for Hollywood Blockbuster as well as concert DVDs first-class pre/final stage combination with the models, which ranks among the absolute world elite and is even of more expensive equipment hardly to toppen. Welcome in the absolute sound summit.



Personally, whenever *I* want to catapult the canvas, I always turn to my D2v....










------------------------------------------------------------


And if that's too much to read, here are their pros and cons -- again given the Babel Fish touch:



> Quote:
> + detailjoyful, fine-intimate play way with high Brillianz and accuracy
> 
> + generous connection assembly
> 
> + final stage P5 in all acoustic interests exquisit, in addition completely passive cooling
> 
> + video section very extensively and qualitatively absolutely convincing
> 
> + gigantic HDMI section with altogether 10 interfaces
> 
> + efficient and latest current DSP engine
> 
> + excellent bass management
> 
> + very high-quality technical structure
> 
> + good space measuring, high-quality microphone
> 
> 
> - Operation proves as quite complex, particularly since also the remote maintenance is overloaded
> 
> - only black as color available
> 
> - high purchase price



--Bob


----------



## jayray

Hey Bob,

Did they try ARC? The canvas would be even easier to catapult with Arc









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16664495
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> Did they try ARC? The canvas would be even easier to catapult with Arc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Absolutely! They even managed to do it using an English language version of the ARC application.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay

With the original D2 has anyone noticed this issue? You are in "Stereo" mode using the Aux analog input. You are using AnlgDSP. You enter the menu screen and then exit the menu screen. It is now in "Al-Cinema". Is there some setting I'm missing that reverts back to Al-Cinema even though I was in Stereo prior to entering the menu?


thanks,

mk


----------



## jpoet

Do firmware upgrades and ARC require a Microsoft operating system? I have a few Linux boxes, and a Macbook, but no Microsoft PCs in my house.


I don't see a USB port. It is 2009, and they still expect you to have RS232?


All of my video sources are already HD. I don't need any scaling or timing adjustments. How invasive is the video processing? I assume it will detect if the HDMI input is 1080p24 or 1080p60 and can just pass that through?


Sorry if these questions have been asked/answered before. I did not see them in the first post, and 22319 posts are too many to read!


Thanks,


John


P.S. I am currently using a AVM 20v2


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16664905
> 
> 
> With the original D2 has anyone noticed this issue? You are in "Stereo" mode using the Aux analog input. You are using AnlgDSP. You enter the menu screen and then exit the menu screen. It is now in "Al-Cinema". Is there some setting I'm missing that reverts back to Al-Cinema even though I was in Stereo prior to entering the menu?
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> mk



It is probably applying the setting you have in Setup > Mode Presets for that input.


The Setup menu is another source (internally generated S-video, and whatever audio feed you were using when you entered it). So when you exit Setup that's a source selection back to the source you were on before. That means your Mode Presets get applied according to whatever audio format is active on that input when you go back to it. Apparently you have AL-Cinema set up as the default in Mode Presets for that source. If you don't want that to happen, use "Last Used" in Mode Presets -- or use Stereo if that's the default you want applied.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/16664973
> 
> 
> Do firmware upgrades and ARC require a Microsoft operating system? I have a few Linux boxes, and a Macbook, but no Microsoft PCs in my house.
> 
> 
> I don't see a USB port. It is 2009, and they still expect you to have RS232?
> 
> 
> All of my video sources are already HD. I don't need any scaling or timing adjustments. How invasive is the video processing? I assume it will detect if the HDMI input is 1080p24 or 1080p60 and can just pass that through?
> 
> 
> Sorry if these questions have been asked/answered before. I did not see them in the first post, and 22319 posts are too many to read!
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> P.S. I am currently using a AVM 20v2



You need Windows XP or later to use the ARC application to set up ARC. You need Windows 2000 or later to do firmware installs.


I happen to do this on a MacBook using the BootCamp environment to boot up a retail copy of Windows XP Pro.


Most of the folks here are using USB to serial adapters. The Keyspan USA-19HS adapter is the one folks have had the best luck with. That's what I'm using.


Other folks have reported success using Windows in the latest VMWare Fusion environment on their Macs, and using a Belkin USB/Serial adapter.


---------------------------------------------


There is no "pass through" of HDMI. All video is converted to 1080p internally (if it isn't already there) prior to any other processing you ask the Anthem to do. Even if you don't ask the Anthem to do any adjustments to the video, the video is still regenerated for output to your display.


We have a ton of people on here using 1080p displays with the Anthem processors and the comments on video quality when using 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 sources are uniformly positive, so apparently Anthem is doing something right.

--Bob


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16665033
> 
> 
> You need Windows XP or later to use the ARC application to set up ARC. You need Windows 2000 or later to do firmware installs.
> 
> 
> I happen to do this on a MacBook using the BootCamp environment to boot up a retail copy of Windows XP Pro.
> 
> 
> Most of the folks here are using USB to serial adapters. The Keyspan USA-19HS adapter is the one folks have had the best luck with. That's what I'm using.
> 
> 
> Other folks have reported success using Windows in the latest VMWare Fusion environment on their Macs, and using a Belkin USB/Serial adapter.



Using VMWare Fusion would be acceptable. I would really rather not have to use BootCamp.


I have some USB/serial adaptors laying around. Is there any *danger* in trying them, or is it strongly recommended to track down a Keyspan USA-19HS?



> Quote:
> There is no "pass through" of HDMI. All video is converted to 1080p internally (if it isn't already there) prior to any other processing you ask the Anthem to do. Even if you don't ask the Anthem to do any adjustments to the video, the video is still regenerated for output to your display.
> 
> 
> We have a ton of people on here using 1080p displays with the Anthem processors and the comments on video quality when using 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 sources are uniformly positive, so apparently Anthem is doing something right.
> 
> --Bob



1080p120 internally? If it is 1080p60, I would think that would cause some jitter and defeat the whole purpose of Blu-ray outputting 1080p24.


Thanks for the quick response! I can't afford to upgrade real soon, but I am hoping to this fall.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/16665092
> 
> 
> Using VMWare Fusion would be acceptable. I would really rather not have to use BootCamp.
> 
> 
> I have some USB/serial adaptors laying around. Is there any *danger* in trying them, or is it strongly recommended to track down a Keyspan USA-19HS?
> 
> 
> 
> 1080p120 internally? If it is 1080p60, I would think that would cause some jitter and defeat the whole purpose of Blu-ray outputting 1080p24.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick response! I can't afford to upgrade real soon, but I am hoping to this fall.
> 
> 
> John



1080/24 input stays as /24 internally unless it has to be frame rate converted for output -- i.e., you tell the Anthem to send it to the display as /60 for whatever reason. So no problem.


The danger with adapters is the usual Windows nonsense. I.e., if you have one installed and it doesn't work you should uninstall the drivers for that one before installing a different one. (It's always a wonder to me when ANYTHING works in Windows.)


We have 2 reports here that the Keyspan adapter I mentioned does not work with Fusion (nobody knows why). These same people report the Belkin USB Serial Port Adapter F5U409-CU does work with ARC under Fusion 2 and Windows XP.


Personally I wouldn't try using anything but one of those two adapters. Why tempt fate?


We've also had a variety of reports of people having other things set up in their Windows environment which get in the way. Firewall software for example (again, nobody quite knows why). The Anthem software uses a standard COM port and a standard microphone audio capture framework that's part of Windows XP (and later), so it isn't asking for much, but there's enough crufty stuff floating around in the Windows world that sometimes we hear about a Windows computer that just can't be made to work with the Anthems. I.e., you have to try a different computer.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16664998
> 
> 
> It is probably applying the setting you have in Setup > Mode Presets for that input.
> 
> 
> The Setup menu is another source (internally generated S-video, and whatever audio feed you were using when you entered it). So when you exit Setup that's a source selection back to the source you were on before. That means your Mode Presets get applied according to whatever audio format is active on that input when you go back to it. Apparently you have AL-Cinema set up as the default in Mode Presets for that source. If you don't want that to happen, use "Last Used" in Mode Presets -- or use Stereo if that's the default you want applied.
> 
> --Bob



Bob I really hope you are on Anthem's payroll. You're the best tech support any company could ever have. I think you just fixed a lot of my problems. I'm going to have to go back over it all but it looks like a number of the items on the list I sent Nick have been resolved by this. Maybe I'm typing too soon and with further investigation discover I'm wrong but I don't think so.


For example, the bass boost in anlgDSP (room correction off) appears to have been resolved. The issue of the "CD" input differing from other inputs appears to have been resolved. The issue of ARC corrections being treated differently by single ended inputs and balanced (2-ch) inputs seems to have been resolved.


I'll go through it in more detail later tonight but it looks like we might be left only with the source dependent HF control impacting the LF and the problem of why the ARC turns the bass down 15 dB in stereo mode. The HF impact on LF is not important because I don't use tone controls so I think the only remaining real issue is the ARC issue.


Thanks Bob you're a life saver. I was ready to get on a plane and fly from Texas to Canada to sit down with those guys to figure this out. Now I don't have to.


Monte


----------



## Montekay

I did type too soon, it fixed the HF effect on LF too. Now the only remaining issue is the -15 dB at LF when using ARC. This problem however has spread to all analog inputs. This is a good thing though because at least it's consistent. This is the only remaining issue and I plan to run ARC again to see if something just went wrong the first time.


thanks,

Monte


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well that certainly seems to be a breakthrough! I suspect the ARC issue will, in the end, also turn out to be a case of setup confusion, but I agree it is a good idea to redo your ARC stuff now that you have a better understanding of how things work in the processor.


You might as well use the new ARC V2.2 when doing this, although there are no significant changes in it.

--Bob


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16665168
> 
> 
> 1080/24 input stays as /24 internally unless it has to be frame rate converted for output -- i.e., you tell the Anthem to send it to the display as /60 for whatever reason. So no problem.
> 
> 
> The danger with adapters is the usual Windows nonsense. I.e., if you have one installed and it doesn't work you should uninstall the drivers for that one before installing a different one. (It's always a wonder to me when ANYTHING works in Windows.)
> 
> 
> We have 2 reports here that the Keyspan adapter I mentioned does not work with Fusion (nobody knows why). These same people report the Belkin USB Serial Port Adapter F5U409-CU does work with ARC under Fusion 2 and Windows XP.
> 
> 
> Personally I wouldn't try using anything but one of those two adapters. Why tempt fate?
> 
> 
> We've also had a variety of reports of people having other things set up in their Windows environment which get in the way. Firewall software for example (again, nobody quite knows why). The Anthem software uses a standard COM port and a standard microphone audio capture framework that's part of Windows XP (and later), so it isn't asking for much, but there's enough crufty stuff floating around in the Windows world that sometimes we hear about a Windows computer that just can't be made to work with the Anthems. I.e., you have to try a different computer.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob.



John


----------



## seang86s

I haven't been following this thread religiously but I'm starting to be depressed reading how all you D2v/ARC owners are having a ball tweaking your setups and whatnot.


My D2 was in storage for a little while during some minor renovations when ARC became available. When I finally put it back in it's rightful place, the D2v was annouced. I figured I'd just wait for the upgrade program to start and I'll send in my D2 in to get ARC and the v2 stuff -- more tweaking makes me happy!


So here we are... halfway thru the year and no D2v upgrade yet. I'd like to avoid going thru the sell the D2 and wait 2 months to get a D2v not to mention it probably costs more to go this route. I waited over 3 months to get my D2 originally because I wanted the rackmount version.


So any word yet when I can send my unit in to be upgraded? If I missed an annoucement, my apologies but I haven't seen anything mentioned on the first page of this thread nor on Anthem's website.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The current word is that Anthem has told their dealers the upgrades will actually start in September, and that pricing and other details should be available "real soon now".

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16666708
> 
> 
> Well that certainly seems to be a breakthrough! I suspect the ARC issue will, in the end, also turn out to be a case of setup confusion, but I agree it is a good idea to redo your ARC stuff now that you have a better understanding of how things work in the processor.
> 
> 
> You might as well use the new ARC V2.2 when doing this, although there are no significant changes in it.
> 
> --Bob



Yes thanks again for all your help. This has been a real nightmare for me compounded by being away from home unable to deal with it. I believe you are correct that the current ARC issue will turn out to be a setting issue. I have just sent Nick the latest ARC measurement. The "target" low frequency roll off of this measurement rolls of lower and the transfer function measurement follows the same new lower curve. This makes me think I have something set wrong in the target settings.


I would also like to apologize here on the forum to Nick because I had made negative comments about him here. I had misinturpreted his initial responses as being very dismissive and thus had become very dismayed by the support I felt I was receiving from him. Unfortunately this then became a nightmare for him too. So, I'm sorry for that. It's like I told Nick, I'm an old school analog guy in a digital world and with all these "preset modes" etc and I'm lost!


Anyway, it seems it's almost over. If I can just resolve this final issue of the response apparently following the roll off in the target curves it should all be solved.


thanks,

Monte


----------



## Bigmoviefan

I am thinking about getting a Pioneer Signature 141FD Monitor. I have a Anthem D2. I noticed in one review of the Pioneer 141FD the reviewer said he had trouble getting the HDMI to work with the cable box but he had not had a problem with the regular Pioneer not the elite Pioneer. Do any of you have the Pioneer 141FD and are using it with the Anthem D2 with HDMI successfully?

Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16669287
> 
> 
> Yes thanks again for all your help. This has been a real nightmare for me compounded by being away from home unable to deal with it. I believe you are correct that the current ARC issue will turn out to be a setting issue. I have just sent Nick the latest ARC measurement. The "target" low frequency roll off of this measurement rolls of lower and the transfer function measurement follows the same new lower curve. This makes me think I have something set wrong in the target settings.
> 
> 
> I would also like to apologize here on the forum to Nick because I had made negative comments about him here. I had misinturpreted his initial responses as being very dismissive and thus had become very dismayed by the support I felt I was receiving from him. Unfortunately this then became a nightmare for him too. So, I'm sorry for that. It's like I told Nick, I'm an old school analog guy in a digital world and with all these "preset modes" etc and I'm lost!
> 
> 
> Anyway, it seems it's almost over. If I can just resolve this final issue of the response apparently following the roll off in the target curves it should all be solved.
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Monte



Well now we are back in more familiar ground.


Do you know how to do window image captures of the ARC charts and target windows? If so, post those images here so we can take a look.


In addition answer 4 questions:


1) Do you want the subwoofer to be active in your ARC configuration?


2) Are you trying to run LF/RF as "full range" speakers -- either with or without a sub also configured?


3) Do you have more than one subwoofer wired to the Anthem?


4) Do you wire all your subwoofer(s) and main speakers directly to the Anthem? Or do you have the subwoofer wired off a main speaker -- or alternatively a main speaker wired off a subwoofer (i.e., a "satellite" sub for that specific speaker)?


--------------------------------------------------------


To capture the images, look in Windows Help for the key combo to Screen Capture Active Window. It will be something like ALT-PrintScreen. That captures an image of the visible portion of the active window into the Clipboard.


You can then paste that into, for example, Windows Paint which is an accessory bundled with Windows.


Then tell Windows Paint to Save As and select JPEG format to keep the file size reasonable.


Now you can't get all the charts visible at the same time in one window, so what you do is scroll to the top of the charts and capture that and make one JPEG file. Then you scroll to the bottom and capture that and make another JPEG file. Then you bring up the Targets window and capture that into a 3rd file.


If you have a different Music configuration select to see the Music charts in the View menu and capture 2 more images. That's 5 files in all.


Then when you post here, look below the text type in box for "Manage Attachements" which will let you upload your JPEG files from your computer to AVS -- they will show as links in the message you post here. It will let you attach 3 images, and then after it uploads those it will offer to let you attach the other 2 images. When they are all uploaded and attached, click on Preview Post to see that it is looking as you expected and then submit the post. The image files are uploaded and kept on the AVS server so you no longer need to keep them on your computer or have your computer attached to the network for folks here to view them.


-----------------------------------------------


If you have more than one subwoofer, be advised that your Speaker Configuration for use with ARC must, nevertheless, be set to "1 sub".


If you have satellite subs instead of subwoofers and mains independently connected to the Anthem, then the setup actually has *NO* subwoofers. The combo of a main speaker and its attached satellite sub is simply a different way of making a "full range" speaker. [If you specify NO subwoofers, perhaps because you are using satellite subs, then ARC will steer both LFE and redirected bass from Small surround speakers to the LF/RF "full range" speakers.]


If you are trying to set up LF/RF as "full range" be advised that ARC will apply a low-end "cut off" to their Room Correction solutions *ANYWAY*. There are two separate things going on here. There are crossovers which control base steering (e.g., from LF/RF to a subwoofer) and there are cutoffs which control the limits of the Room Correction solution. For each pair of main speakers, ARC normally uses the same value for these, but if you check the "full range" box for a pair of speakers in the ARC setup, ARC will turn off bass steering from those speakers but will STILL apply a low end roll off to the Room Correction solution to keep from stressing those speakers (and their amps) too much.


So if you REALLY want ARC to drive and correct those speakers "all the way down" then you need to do TWO things. In the Targets window, check the "full range" box and ALSO change the cutoff value to its lowest setting (25Hz). ARC will now treat those speakers as TRULY full range -- all the way down to 5Hz.


Make any other changes you need to make in Targets (e.g., raising the Max EQ Frequency target value), accept that set of Targets (which will also dismiss the Targets window) and do a Calculation. If you like how the charts now look, do an Upload and give it a listen.


If you also have a subwoofer configured, it will get all of the LFE content as well as any bass steered from other speakers which are not set to "full range". It will get no bass from the speakers you have set to "full range".

--Bob


----------



## Montekay

Thanks Bob for this amazingly detailed response.


My system might best be described as having satellite subs. It's all integrated together, a three way active crossover with the low band from 80 Hz down (a recent change from 50 Hz) routed to a separate box and the two higher bands routed to another box. The left and right crossover are just driven by the D2 main outputs set to large speaker mode. So I always set sub to "none".


I believe that I did have the frequency set to 25 Hz for the measurement and I definitely had it set to full range. I'll do it again to be certain but I'm already sure.


Nick also stated that setting to 25 Hz should cause it to treat the speakers as full range...


"By setting to 25 it's in essence the same as not rolling off, because ARC doesn't correct below 25 Hz (the output is the same as the measured response because measurements that these low frequencies are usually mostly noise, if not entirely)."


Let me make sure I understand his statement. Setting to 25 Hz should leave the response below 25 Hz alone much like setting the upper limit to 5 KHz cause it to disregard any correction to those frequencies.


This portion of his statement is somewhat confusing... "the output is the same as the measured response...". I assume he must mean the total output from the D2 to the room speaker combination because if he means the output of the D2 will be the same as the measured response then that would possibly be my problem. I don't want it to attenuate below 25 Hz, I want the D2 output to be just an uncorrected flat line below 25 Hz the same as it is with room correction off.


I've also attached the measured output of the D2 where you can see the 15 dB high pass shelf. The dotted yellow line in this plot is what I need the output of the D2 to do.


Thanks again Bob. I'll run ARC one more time and double check that I have it set to 25 Hz along with full range.


Oh, one other observation here, I notice the green calculated curve on the left speaker tracks very close to the target curve but on the right speaker it tracks more closely with the measured curve than the target. Is this normal?


Edit: Just setting up here all of a sudden I'm not so sure. The default setting was at 80 Hz when I opened ARC, maybe something wasn't saved. This may all be over in a few more minutes after I complete a new measurement.


thanks,


Monte


----------



## tomdac

Hey all,

New guy here.. Pulled the trigger on a D2 w/ARC from an authorized Anthem dealer who had it as a demo unit. According to the UPS tracking website, it will be delivered tomorrow (June 18)! Can't wait!!


Anyway, I guess I should start reading thru these 700+ posts in this thread to get up to speed!


Regards,

TomDac
MartinLogan Club 

Click HERE to see my current system.


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tomdac* /forum/post/16671952
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> New guy here.. Pulled the trigger on a D2 w/ARC from an authorized Anthem dealer who had it as a demo unit. According to the UPS tracking website, it will be delivered tomorrow (June 18)! Can't wait!!
> 
> 
> Anyway, I guess I should start reading thru these 700+ posts in this thread to get up to speed!
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> TomDac
> MartinLogan Club
> 
> Click HERE to see my current system.



your D2 will be delivered way before you finish reading


----------



## Montekay

Welcome TomDac, you have made a wise purchase!


Back to my issue. It still didn't work. Interestingly however the -15 dB shelf is now a -10 dB shelf. I also note in the ARC curve that it is on an upward trend near 20 Hz. I wonder if when ARC stops correcting it reverts to a flat response or if it continues the slope it was on when it stopped correcting? If that's the case, it could be the problem. Maybe I can fake it out with adjustments to the crossover and force it to end corrections while flat so it will continue flat. I'll try that next but not now, I'm already late to meet friends.


mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16672282
> 
> 
> Welcome TomDac, you have made a wise purchase!
> 
> 
> Back to my issue. It still didn't work. Interestingly however the -15 dB shelf is now a -10 dB shelf. I also note in the ARC curve that it is on an upward trend near 20 Hz. I wonder if when ARC stops correcting it reverts to a flat response or if it continues the slope it was on when it stopped correcting? If that's the case, it could be the problem. Maybe I can fake it out with adjustments to the crossover and force it to end corrections while flat so it will continue flat. I'll try that next but not now, I'm already late to meet friends.
> 
> 
> mk



Monte,

You need to capture the Targets window you are using to make these Calculations and post it here. It looks to me like ARC is assigning a "cutoff" of around 40Hz to LF/RF which is the typical thing it does for "full range" speakers. So you are apparently not making the Targets changes correctly.


Remember that after you make the changes in the Targets window and accept those changes, you have to do a new Calculation to get them to take effect, and then a new Upload to get the results in to the Anthem. You should see an immediate effect in the charts when the new Calculation completes. [There's no need to re-Measure. ARC retains your original, raw Measurements and just applies the new Targets to them.]


In addition, after you are comfortable the Upload has done the right thing, you should Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the Setup menu changes ARC has just made so that you don't accidentally overwrite them later by Loading Saved User or Installer Settings from those memories.


At first glance it looks to me like the results you are seeing in your test are simply due to not having properly eliminated ARC's roll-off yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tomdac* /forum/post/16671952
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> New guy here.. Pulled the trigger on a D2 w/ARC from an authorized Anthem dealer who had it as a demo unit. According to the UPS tracking website, it will be delivered tomorrow (June 18)! Can't wait!!
> 
> 
> Anyway, I guess I should start reading thru these 700+ posts in this thread to get up to speed!
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> TomDac
> MartinLogan Club
> 
> Click HERE to see my current system.



Welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!


You can download the D2 owner's manual (PDF file) from the Anthem web site for some light reading tonight.


In addition, check out the collection of tutorial post links found in the first post of this thread -- what I like to call, "The Good Parts Version".


Then I would suggest you start scanning this thread BACKWARDS from the end for recent news and discussions. It is pointless to spend time reading most of the old posts.

--Bob


----------



## lalarsons

Does Apple TV now work via HDMI with the latest D2V software?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's supposed to, but I don't think we've actually had any posts confirming that yet.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16672355
> 
> 
> Monte,
> 
> You need to capture the Targets window you are using to make these Calculations and post it here.
> 
> 
> At first glance it looks to me like the results you are seeing in your test are simply due to not having properly eliminated ARC's roll-off yet.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah so it seems. The question is why?


Edit: Bob, do you are anyone else here for that matter actually know anyone that is using ARC in a true full range system? Anyone using the satellite subs? I'm just wondering if maybe I'm the first to try to use it this way.


mk


----------



## ehlarson

Has anyone observed conditions where the D2V can add pulsating static to playback through an HDMI connection?


Briefly this static is coming through all 5 channels, seems to pulsate up and down at a rate of once per second and it seems to track the volume of the source.


The source is an Oppo BDP-83, and I've heard it on the last few BD's I've played - Chronos and 2001 were two of the latest titles. I'm using LCPM.


It seems to stronger as the movie goes on?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16674027
> 
> 
> Yeah so it seems. The question is why?
> 
> 
> mk



That's not the Targets window that goes with the set of charts you posted. This one has all speakers grayed out except for LF/RF (a 2.0 speaker configuration) and the charts you posted included a Center speaker.


In addition, this Targets window says ARC is going to preserve a Room Gain of over 3dB and there is no hump in the Targets curves for LF/RF or C in your chart that corresponds to that.


Are you confusing your ARC results files?


-------------------------------------------------------


Double click on your ARC results file to both start ARC and open that file in Advanced mode. Click on Targets. Now click on Auto Detect in the Targets window. This will cause ARC to reset the values in the Targets window according to the original Measurement data in your results file -- just as if you'd just finished making those Measurements.


Click on OK to accept those changes and dismiss the Targets window. You'll now be back on the charts page with just the dashed Targets curves and the red Measured curves (no green Calculated curves).


Click on Calculate and ARC will produce Calculated curves matching the Targets.


Capture those charts and go back into Targets and capture it as well for posting here. If you've still got a Center speaker in the charts and yet the Center cutoff is grayed out in the Targets window then your ARC data file has become corrupted somehow -- you'll need to redo your ARC Measurements from scratch to make a new file.


While you are at it, select About from the Help menu and confirm you are actually running ARC V2.2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16674999
> 
> 
> Has anyone observed conditions where the D2V can add pulsating static to playback through an HDMI connection?
> 
> 
> Briefly this static is coming through all 5 channels, seems to pulsate up and down at a rate of once per second and it seems to track the volume of the source.
> 
> 
> The source is an Oppo BDP-83, and I've heard it on the last few BD's I've played - Chronos and 2001 were two of the latest titles. I'm using LCPM.
> 
> 
> It seems to stronger as the movie goes on?



That's new -- never heard of anything like that.


Which firmware are you using on the D2v and on the Oppo?


Does the static persist if you switch the Oppo to HDMI Bitstream output?


Do you get it playing SD-DVD discs or CDs as well?

--Bob


----------



## Montekay

Sorry about that, the desk top was getting pretty cluttered so I probably did grab the wrong one. I was messing with it until 05:30 am last night so who knows.


When I click on auto detect it sets the room gain to zero and locks it.


Actually I'm still running 2.1, you had mentioned there wasn't much difference between it and 2.2 so I'm still using it.


mk


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16675223
> 
> 
> That's new -- never heard of anything like that.
> 
> 
> Which firmware are you using on the D2v and on the Oppo?
> 
> 
> Does the static persist if you switch the Oppo to HDMI Bitstream output?
> 
> 
> Do you get it playing SD-DVD discs or CDs as well?
> 
> --Bob



D2v -> 2.04

Oppo -> latest release forgot what the number is.

Bitstream vs. LCPM did not affect it.


I haven't had time to test many other media types.


This weekend I'm going to try resetting to factory defaults and a new HDMI cable.


Funny thing about this is that it did not happen when I first got the D2V making me think I have some sort of setup issue.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16675591
> 
> 
> D2v -> 2.04
> 
> Oppo -> latest release forgot what the number is.
> 
> Bitstream vs. LCPM did not affect it.
> 
> 
> I haven't had time to test many other media types.
> 
> 
> This weekend I'm going to try resetting to factory defaults and a new HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> Funny thing about this is that it did not happen when I first got the D2V making me think I have some sort of setup issue.



Is it static just when you pause or even while it's playing? If playing I'd try a new hdmi cable between the oppo and the anthem and also download v2.07 for the anthem.


Doh sorry, missed the part where you said you were trying a new cable!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16675480
> 
> 
> Sorry about that, the desk top was getting pretty cluttered so I probably did grab the wrong one. I was messing with it until 05:30 am last night so who knows.
> 
> 
> When I click on auto detect it sets the room gain to zero and locks it.
> 
> 
> Actually I'm still running 2.1, you had mentioned there wasn't much difference between it and 2.2 so I'm still using it.
> 
> 
> mk



I'm confused. Is that supposed to be a Before or an After shot? Did ARC's Auto Detect really come up with 0 for Room Gain and 25Hz for the LF/RF cutoff? And if you changed those yourself, did you OK out of Targets and re-Calculate so that the charts behind the Targets window now actually reflect the new Targets? [Changes you make in Targets don't take effect until you accept the changes and then also re-Calculate.]


I'm trying to see what ARC set up for you itself, and how that changes when you make the adjustments in Targets, accept those, and then re-Calculate.


Since you've already done some adjustments in this file, to see what ARC set up for you I need you to do an Auto Detect, accept the default Targets ARC returns when you do that, and re-Calculate based on those defaults. I need to see those RESULTING charts and also the Targets window, showing the newly restored defaults (from Auto Detect) that produced them.


THEN we can see what affect changing the Targets and re-calculating is really having.


-----------------------------------


I suggest you switch to ARC V2.2 before you do your next Measurements pass. Might as well be using the latest software.


ETA: I also don't like that your RF speaker is not showing proper correction. The residual errors in the Calculated curve are bigger than they should be. I think this ARC data file may be corrupted and that you may need to start over with a fresh set of Measurements.


----------



## Montekay

I selected 25 Hz, auto detect set room gain to zero. This may not be unusual however since the woofers are dipoles and thus have a directivity factor of 3 as opposed to 1 like a conventional woofer. The power response is more uniform so spatial average measurements will not show much room gain at low frequency.


This time I screen captured each step using a different data set than the one in the last post. At each step I did only the step, that is for auto detect, I clicked only auto detect and changed nothing so the changes in check boxes seen were done automatically.


mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16676235
> 
> 
> I selected 25 Hz, auto detect set room gain to zero. This may not be unusual however since the woofers are dipoles and thus have a directivity factor of 3 as opposed to 1 like a conventional woofer. The power response is more uniform so spatial average measurements will not show much room gain at low frequency.
> 
> 
> This time I screen captured each step using a different data set than the one in the last post. At each step I did only the step, that is for auto detect, I clicked only auto detect and changed nothing so the changes in check boxes seen were done automatically.
> 
> 
> mk



OK, one problem solved. This latest Calculation is applying proper correction to RF (within the 5KHz limit for Max EQ Frequency target).


I'm surprised that Auto Detect didn't restore the Cutoff for LF/RF. Do you happen to recall what its value was originally? I.e., before you FIRST changed it to 25Hz in this file?


This may simply be a user interface bug -- i.e., the value was actually restored by the Auto Detect but ARC also remembers you previously changed it to 25Hz and is displaying that by mistake since that's a "special case".


-----------------------------------------


What I'd like you to do this time is to go into Targets and change just the LF/RF cutoff to 80Hz. OK out of that and re-Calculate. Does the LF/RF Targets and Calculated curves change to reflect an 80Hz roll off? If it's working right it should look similar to your Center speaker curves.


[NOTE: I'm not actually sure what ARC will do in this case since it wants to bass steer from Center to LF/RF and if you roll off LF/RF as high as 80Hz there's no place for ARC to put that steered bass. But let's just try it and see.]


No go BACK into Targets and change the Cutoff for LF/RF back to 25Hz again. OK out of that and re-Calculate. Let's see if it properly applies the "special case" for the 25Hz setting this time.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay

Yes, the curves do now follow the 80 Hz target and then return back to the 25 Hz target when I go back to 25. The software seems to always default to 80 Hz when I open it. I've always been changing it to 25.


This is all so foreign to me because with my crossover optimizer software, LspCAD and others, the target is the target. If the target rolls off at 25 Hz then the software will optimize the response to roll off at 25 Hz. Here I'm told that 25 Hz doesn't really mean 25 Hz if both it and large speaker are selected, it just means it will do noting below 25 Hz. That's very contradictory to any logic.


Anyone with no knowledge just looking over your shoulder would say well of course it's rolling off, the display right there shows it rolling off. To me, the target should not roll off otherwise of course the response is going to be tailored to roll off. Am I wrong on this Bob? I don't know how familiar you are with working with analog filter functions but I've seen a lot, designed a lot, used a lot of software, and no where but here do I see a target roll off at 25 Hz and be told not to worry about it because it doesn't really mean it.


I really appreciate your dedicated support. What you offer here is hard to find anywhere!


Monte


----------



## bravo36




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16674999
> 
> 
> Has anyone observed conditions where the D2V can add pulsating static to playback through an HDMI connection?
> 
> 
> Briefly this static is coming through all 5 channels, seems to pulsate up and down at a rate of once per second and it seems to track the volume of the source.
> 
> 
> The source is an Oppo BDP-83, and I've heard it on the last few BD's I've played - Chronos and 2001 were two of the latest titles. I'm using LCPM.
> 
> 
> It seems to stronger as the movie goes on?



As a matter of fact, I have also had that same exact problem, but with my new AVM50v. I have experienced it using both the PS3 and satellite boxes as sources. I was sending my hdmi signal over cat6 via balens. It is not present every time, but when it is, it is extremely annoying. It got so bad last week, that we had to turn the volume down really low so as to at least be ablr to halfway enjoy the movie.


I had my AV installer out yesterday, and of course, I could not reproduce it. This is on a new install with a Crestron system for distribution. All audio is distributed via the AVM50v.


I had them bypass the cat6/balen setup yesterday to the projector and supplement a 100' Geffen hdmi fiber optic to try and improve the signal. It is a distance issue. The cable they brought is about $1000 for the 100' length.


Last night, there were no issues. I'll try and keep this updated as the week progresses.


Kevin


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16675764
> 
> 
> Is it static just when you pause or even while it's playing? If playing I'd try a new hdmi cable between the oppo and the anthem and also download v2.07 for the anthem.
> 
> 
> Doh sorry, missed the part where you said you were trying a new cable!



The static tracks the volume of the source. If the program is silent or the player is paused the static is not there. If the program increases in volume the static increases in volume. Always pulsing at about the same 1 cycle/sec rate. Strange stuff. I hope it is just a cable problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16677716
> 
> 
> Yes, the curves do now follow the 80 Hz target and then return back to the 25 Hz target when I go back to 25. The software seems to always default to 80 Hz when I open it. I've always been changing it to 25.
> 
> 
> This is all so foreign to me because with my crossover optimizer software, LspCAD and others, the target is the target. If the target rolls off at 25 Hz then the software will optimize the response to roll off at 25 Hz. Here I'm told that 25 Hz doesn't really mean 25 Hz if both it and large speaker are selected, it just means it will do noting below 25 Hz. That's very contradictory to any logic.
> 
> 
> Anyone with no knowledge just looking over your shoulder would say well of course it's rolling off, the display right there shows it rolling off. To me, the target should not roll off otherwise of course the response is going to be tailored to roll off. Am I wrong on this Bob? I don't know how familiar you are with working with analog filter functions but I've seen a lot, designed a lot, used a lot of software, and no where but here do I see a target roll off at 25 Hz and be told not to worry about it because it doesn't really mean it.
> 
> 
> I really appreciate your dedicated support. What you offer here is hard to find anywhere!
> 
> 
> Monte



I believe it is just a sloppy user interface. They didn't really plan out the interface for folks using setups without a subwoofer, so the 25Hz thing is just being treated as a special setting. The same thing happens if you go into the Setup menu in the Anthem itself to do manual speaker setup and select the Advanced speaker configurations and then lower the crossovers to the lowest setting -- the result is you turn off bass steering for that speaker pair.


What bothers me more is your saying that Targets is coming up as 80Hz each time you open the file. THAT'S NOT RIGHT.


Presuming the file is not write protected, the Targets settings changes you accept should get saved in the file the same way the Calculations are saved, and the last set of Target settings you accepted should be what shows up when you next open the file and go to the Targets window.


It also bothers me that your results are still showing a roll off of Target and Calculated after you set the LF/RF cutoff to 25Hz. That's not my understanding of how it is supposed to work.


It ALSO bothers me that the specified frequency of the "cutoff" corresponds to a volume level several dB below the basic volume level of the solution (the flat part of the Target curve in the mid-range). I believe that frequency should actually correspond to the START of the roll off.


I'm beginning to think that somehow, in the course of all your work with this file, that it has gotten corrupted.


By the way, you can email the ARC results file (not the screen capture images but the actual data file) to Anthem and they have tools that can pick it apart and see more details than you can see on the charts.


But I don't have those tools, and my inclination right now is to suggest you try again from scratch.


Start by stashing all your old data files out of the way (so you don't confuse yourself) and installing the ARC V2.2, and then take a fresh set of Measurements into a brand new file -- and lets see if the same problem occurs when you get around to adjusting the cutoff down to 25Hz.


Your 3.0 speaker configuration is unusual enough that you may have found a new bug, but let's start with a clean slate and see if some of the oddness doesn't go away when you are using a new data file that hasn't seen so much tweaking already.


ETA: Take the next set of Measurements using ARC "Advanced" mode. When the Measurements complete and after you name the file to hold them, exit ARC and write protect that file. Then make copies of that file (turning off write protection in the copies), for your experiments with Targets and Calculations. If something screwy happens again, you know you can always make a fresh copy of your original, write-protected file with the Measurements. In Windows, right click on the file and select Properties to see the Read Only option.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16677905
> 
> 
> The static tracks the volume of the source. If the program is silent or the player is paused the static is not there. If the program increases in volume the static increases in volume. Always pulsing at about the same 1 cycle/sec rate. Strange stuff. I hope it is just a cable problem.



If it is a cable problem it is a very unusual one. I've never heard of any such problem.


If you are using ARC, try turning off Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ for that source to see if the problem vanishes. Your uploaded ARC data may have gotten corrupted.


In the BDP-83, try turning off Deep Color video and also change output resolution to 1080i and see if THOSE make the problem go away. [If so, that suggests a cabling problem from the player.] Also make sure Secondary Audio is OFF in the BDP-83.


If none of that does the trick, I'd be inclined to do a re-install of the V2.07 firmware followed by a re-Upload of your ARC results file.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I ran a BD movie which was 60Hz unknowingly and except for a few seconds of stuttering, it played fine. I was using a 1080p/24 setting in my D2v. Was wondering if others have noticed an improvement in the inverse telecine handling in their D2v or AVM50v.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16679406
> 
> 
> I ran a BD movie which was 60Hz unknowingly and except for a few seconds of stuttering, it played fine. I was using a 1080p/24 setting in my D2v. Was wondering if others have noticed an improvement in the inverse telecine handling in their D2v or AVM50v.
> 
> John



If you also have Frame Lock set to Auto for that source then that makes sense. The output to the display would switch to /60 after a few seconds of playback.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16677905
> 
> 
> The static tracks the volume of the source. If the program is silent or the player is paused the static is not there. If the program increases in volume the static increases in volume. Always pulsing at about the same 1 cycle/sec rate. Strange stuff. I hope it is just a cable problem.



Whenever you have interference noise like this it is also a good idea to try to eliminate possible Ground Loop sources.


For example, temporarily disconnect the cable/satellite feed wire between the wall and your set top box. Note it is insufficient to just turn off the set top box.


Also, try using analog inputs -- perhaps the 6 channel analog inputs with HDMI disconnected from the Oppo and from your display. If the noise is still in there then you've eliminated HDMI cable and HDMI handshake as the cause. It could be broken Oppo, faulty (corrupted) DSP firmware in the Anthem, or a failing analog output stage in the Anthem. Try with a different analog source to eliminate the Oppo as the cause.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay

Bob, I am so sorry for having put you through so much work and for causing Nick so much pain but it has all been for educational purposes only in the end. All any of us can say is that we have had a learning experience!


I have just gotten it straight from the software department that ARC in its present form, is not capable of functioning with a system such as mine. It might possibly be added as an option on a new version but at this time, systems like mine or like what you described as a satellite/sub combination operating in full range mode on each channel will not work with ARC without experiencing this loss of bass. This came starting from the top of Paradigm/Anthem down from the very top, to whom I had the great pleasure of speaking with earlier today, down through the engineers and scientist who developed ARC in their very prompt and detailed response explaining this situation.


So, well at least now we know. I have requested they consider adding the option to a newer version so perhaps in the future I can also enjoy the benefits of ARC the same as the rest of you here. For now I have to say my system sounds pretty darn good even without ARC...but of course it does, it's all powered by Anthem!!!


Thanks again for all your help. Sorry again for all the work this put you through. And hopefully I will one day post my ARC results using the new true full bandwidth version that hopefully will exist at some point in the future.


Monte


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16675778
> 
> 
> I'm confused. Is that supposed to be a Before or an After shot? Did ARC's Auto Detect really come up with 0 for Room Gain and 25Hz for the LF/RF cutoff? And if you changed those yourself, did you OK out of Targets and re-Calculate so that the charts behind the Targets window now actually reflect the new Targets? [Changes you make in Targets don't take effect until you accept the changes and then also re-Calculate.]
> 
> 
> I'm trying to see what ARC set up for you itself, and how that changes when you make the adjustments in Targets, accept those, and then re-Calculate.
> 
> 
> Since you've already done some adjustments in this file, to see what ARC set up for you I need you to do an Auto Detect, accept the default Targets ARC returns when you do that, and re-Calculate based on those defaults. I need to see those RESULTING charts and also the Targets window, showing the newly restored defaults (from Auto Detect) that produced them.
> 
> 
> THEN we can see what affect changing the Targets and re-calculating is really having.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> I suggest you switch to ARC V2.2 before you do your next Measurements pass. Might as well be using the latest software.
> 
> 
> ETA: I also don't like that your RF speaker is not showing proper correction. The residual errors in the Calculated curve are bigger than they should be. I think this ARC data file may be corrupted and that you may need to start over with a fresh set of Measurements.



What improvements did you hear with the Arc 2.2 over the 2.1 Bob??


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/16680289
> 
> 
> What improvements did you hear with the Arc 2.2 over the 2.1 Bob??



None. The only change that's supposed to be in there is a minor change with how the application finds the mic if you happen to have ARC and PBK software installed on the same Windows computer.


Nevertheless, if you are going to do new Measurements anyway, you should probably update to the latest software anyway.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16679700
> 
> 
> Bob, I am so sorry for having put you through so much work and for causing Nick so much pain but it has all been for educational purposes only in the end. All any of us can say is that we have had a learning experience!
> 
> 
> I have just gotten it straight from the software department that ARC in its present form, is not capable of functioning with a system such as mine. It might possibly be added as an option on a new version but at this time, systems like mine or like what you described as a satellite/sub combination operating in full range mode on each channel will not work with ARC without experiencing this loss of bass. This came starting from the top of Paradigm/Anthem down from the very top, to whom I had the great pleasure of speaking with earlier today, down through the engineers and scientist who developed ARC in their very prompt and detailed response explaining this situation.
> 
> 
> So, well at least now we know. I have requested they consider adding the option to a newer version so perhaps in the future I can also enjoy the benefits of ARC the same as the rest of you here. For now I have to say my system sounds pretty darn good even without ARC...but of course it does, it's all powered by Anthem!!!
> 
> 
> Thanks again for all your help. Sorry again for all the work this put you through. And hopefully I will one day post my ARC results using the new true full bandwidth version that hopefully will exist at some point in the future.
> 
> 
> Monte



I'm surprised mainly because we have some other folks who posted ARC solutions without subwoofers here, and I thought they didn't have the problem you are experiencing at the low frequency end.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16680334
> 
> 
> I'm surprised mainly because we have some other folks who posted ARC solutions without subwoofers here, and I thought they didn't have the problem you are experiencing at the low frequency end.
> 
> --Bob



It could be that while their non subwoofer systems are "full bandwidth" they are not true full bandwidth to the extent I need. If those systems are only good to about 25 Hz then this roll off becomes essentially a rumble filter to protect the mains and they don't notice any or much effect.


Anyway, the developers say that it doesn't work as is but they will consider adding the feature in a later revision.


mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Could be, but I could have sworn we had some "no subwoofer" charts posted here that did not have the roll off yours are showing.


Perhaps it is a change that was put in after those charts were produced.


-----------------------------


Can you separate your woofers from the mains and wire them up independently to the Anthem as "normal" subwoofers?


The only thing you'd lose would be the Anthem would see them as one output (no separate correction -- the two sub outs of the Anthem carry the same signal) instead of the low end of two separate outputs (LF and RF).

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16680453
> 
> 
> Could be, but I could have sworn we had some "no subwoofer" charts posted here that did not have the roll off yours are showing.
> 
> 
> Perhaps it is a change that was put in after those charts were produced.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------
> 
> 
> Can you separate your woofers from the mains and wire them up independently to the Anthem as "normal" subwoofers?
> 
> 
> The only thing you'd lose would be the Anthem would see them as one output (no separate correction -- the two sub outs of the Anthem carry the same signal) instead of the low end of two separate outputs (LF and RF).
> 
> --Bob



I suppose I could. I recently changed the crossover frequency from 50 Hz to 80 Hz however to take some load off the cones in the main lines. So connecting to the D2 sub connections would mean going mono at 80 Hz. Maybe not such a big deal I guess.


I could still route through the digital crossovers so I would still have the EQ control required to compensate for the dipole effect so yes, it could be done. I just don't want to have to compromise just because ARC will not do full range. To me, they really need to change it. The D2 can do full range without ARC. These days getting a flat response to near DC isn't an issue so I really don't understand why they chose to create this limitation.


mk


----------



## benleeys

Bob,

Have you any idea why Anthem says "Composite inputs cannot be converted ...." in its D2 manual? I presume it is refering to conversion to HDMI output which it will not do. I am told it is technically possible - the latest Marantz AV processor, for example, does it. Perhaps Anthem simply thinks it is not worthwhile doing so, but in this part of the world, we are still receiving cable broadcasts with composite connections.

Ben


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tomdac* /forum/post/16671952
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> New guy here.. Pulled the trigger on a D2 w/ARC from an authorized Anthem dealer who had it as a demo unit. According to the UPS tracking website, it will be delivered tomorrow (June 18)! Can't wait!!
> 
> 
> Anyway, I guess I should start reading thru these 700+ posts in this thread to get up to speed!
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> TomDac



Welcome to the D2 fraternity! Good to see a fellow ML Summit owner using this fantastic piece of hardware to achieve a higher level of listening/viewing experience. You are going to enjoy it as much as I have, but there's quite a bit of hard work coming in setting it all up. However, with the kind assistance of Bob P. and the gang, no sweat.

Ben


----------



## Alembicjeff

I received my brand-spanking new D2v yesterday and I must say, I'm extremely impressed and I haven't even plugged it in yet! I barely had time to open the box and examine the contents, but I did remove the D2v, place it on a table, and admire the look and feel of a beautifully made unit. I purchased the 17" non-rack mount version and it is quite attractive (the 36/24/36 of pre-pros).


The packaging of the ARC hardware and the accessories all inspire confidence that this piece is well made by a company that cares.


I have a freaking wedding I must attend on Saturday but Sunday looks like the day I'm really going to enjoy setting this baby up!


Jeff.


----------



## CycloneMike

I have attached my latest ARC (2.2) run in stereo configuration without a sub - 25 Hz crossover. I do not get the curves that Montekay is getting.


I also attached my movie configuration, with sub and 40-Hz crossover. This also shows my targets.


I have made runs at 10K, 15K, 20K. In my room the 10K sounds best.


Mike

 

full range stereo.pdf 58.44921875k . file

 

movie configuration.pdf 393.21484375k . file


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16681768
> 
> 
> I have attached my latest ARC (2.2) run in stereo configuration without a sub - 25 Hz crossover. I do not get the curves that Montekay is getting.
> 
> 
> I also attached my movie configuration, with sub and 40-Hz crossover. This also shows my targets.
> 
> 
> I have made runs at 10K, 15K, 20K. In my room the 10K sounds best.
> 
> 
> Mike



Your curves still appear to roll off below 25 Hz. The difference I see is only in the room gain. My system doesn't have this room gain due to the type speakers I'm using. Conventional speakers need this to avoid sounding thin due to their imbalanced power response. (They radiate non-directionally at low frequency and directionally at high frequency)


Do you have a way to measure the output of the processor itself? Are you using speakers that are capable of frequencies well below 25 Hz... into the low-mid teens? If so then you are likely missing something too. If not then your speakers are simply being protected by this low frequency loss. It takes a lot of clean volume displacement to produce undistorted bass to 13 ~ 14 Hz. A lot of people may think they have these frequencies but in reality have a lot of 2nd and 3rd harmonic content of it. To know you need more than ARC, you need to measure not only frequency response but also harmonic distortion. Otherwise you really don't know what you have. A simple test would be to put in a 13 Hz tone. If you hear it, you are hearing only the harmonic content plus any extraneous noise caused by the mechanical motion of the cones. Ideally you wouldn't hear anything but if it were of a significant output level you would feel it. I use twenty four 15" drivers to produce these frequencies and while far superior to any conventional sub, it's still not good enough. You can still hear the distortion components when playing these low tones.


My ARC is being returned today. While they say it may be capable of what I need in the future, there is no guarantee of future upgrades so for now I need to just take it back. Maybe later I will be able to try again.


mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/16681180
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Have you any idea why Anthem says "Composite inputs cannot be converted ...." in its D2 manual? I presume it is refering to conversion to HDMI output which it will not do. I am told it is technically possible - the latest Marantz AV processor, for example, does it. Perhaps Anthem simply thinks it is not worthwhile doing so, but in this part of the world, we are still receiving cable broadcasts with composite connections.
> 
> Ben



I've no idea why Anthem chose not to add the parts to do it, but Composite video input can only be used as "pass through".


However, you can get inexpensive, in-line, Composite to S-video converters at Radio Shack and elsewhere so that you can connect to the Anthem S-video inputs which CAN be digitized and processed. The quality aint great, but then the Composite video aint great to begin with.


I suppose my guess would be Anthem choose not to include Composite input processing because they knew the results couldn't match the quality of what the rest of the unit can do.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alembicjeff* /forum/post/16681646
> 
> 
> I received my brand-spanking new D2v yesterday and I must say, I'm extremely impressed and I haven't even plugged it in yet! I barely had time to open the box and examine the contents, but I did remove the D2v, place it on a table, and admire the look and feel of a beautifully made unit. I purchased the 17" non-rack mount version and it is quite attractive (the 36/24/36 of pre-pros).
> 
> 
> The packaging of the ARC hardware and the accessories all inspire confidence that this piece is well made by a company that cares.
> 
> 
> I have a freaking wedding I must attend on Saturday but Sunday looks like the day I'm really going to enjoy setting this baby up!
> 
> 
> Jeff.



Keep in mind that we are still on Double Cookie Watch for the firmware -- awaiting the first poster to power on a new unit and confirm that it comes with either V2.06 or with V2.07 (or later) factory installed.


We are also still on Cookie Watch for ARC -- awaiting the first poster to install ARC from the CD that comes with a new unit and confirm that ARC V2.2 was shipped in the box.


To see the firmware, power on the unit and press Select once on the remote to read the firmware number from the front panel display. No need to wire up anything first or do any setup first.


To see the ARC version number, install ARC from the CD on your Windows PC, run it in Advanced mode and choose About from the Help menu. No need to hook up the ARC mic or serial cable to the Anthem or do any ARC setup.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16682000
> 
> 
> Your curves still appear to roll off below 25 Hz. The difference I see is only in the room gain. My system doesn't have this room gain due to the type speakers I'm using. Conventional speakers need this to avoid sounding thin due to their imbalanced power response. (They radiate non-directionally at low frequency and directionally at high frequency)
> 
> 
> Do you have a way to measure the output of the processor itself? Are you using speakers that are capable of frequencies well below 25 Hz... into the low-mid teens? If so then you are likely missing something too. If not then your speakers are simply being protected by this low frequency loss. It takes a lot of clean volume displacement to produce undistorted bass to 13 ~ 14 Hz. A lot of people may think they have these frequencies but in reality have a lot of 2nd and 3rd harmonic content of it. To know you need more than ARC, you need to measure not only frequency response but also harmonic distortion. Otherwise you really don't know what you have. A simple test would be to put in a 13 Hz tone. If you hear it, you are hearing only the harmonic content plus any extraneous noise caused by the mechanical motion of the cones. Ideally you wouldn't hear anything but if it were of a significant output level you would feel it. I use twenty four 15" drivers to produce these frequencies and while far superior to any conventional sub, it's still not good enough. You can still hear the distortion components when playing these low tones.
> 
> 
> My ARC is being returned today. While they say it may be capable of what I need in the future, there is no guarantee of future upgrades so for now I need to just take it back. Maybe later I will be able to try again.
> 
> 
> mk



Man - you must be a bass freak!







If I had that many drivers in my room that house would probably fall down under high volumes! Do you have any photos?


My front speakers are rated: Frequency response: 27Hz-25kHz ±2dB. So the 25 Hz is probably smack on for 2-channel stereo without my subwoofer.


I only have a single 18-inch subwoofer, but it provides ample bass for me for movies.


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16682000
> 
> 
> Your curves still appear to roll off below 25 Hz. The difference I see is only in the room gain. My system doesn't have this room gain due to the type speakers I'm using. Conventional speakers need this to avoid sounding thin due to their imbalanced power response. (They radiate non-directionally at low frequency and directionally at high frequency)
> 
> 
> Do you have a way to measure the output of the processor itself? Are you using speakers that are capable of frequencies well below 25 Hz... into the low-mid teens? If so then you are likely missing something too. If not then your speakers are simply being protected by this low frequency loss. It takes a lot of clean volume displacement to produce undistorted bass to 13 ~ 14 Hz. A lot of people may think they have these frequencies but in reality have a lot of 2nd and 3rd harmonic content of it. To know you need more than ARC, you need to measure not only frequency response but also harmonic distortion. Otherwise you really don't know what you have. A simple test would be to put in a 13 Hz tone. If you hear it, you are hearing only the harmonic content plus any extraneous noise caused by the mechanical motion of the cones. Ideally you wouldn't hear anything but if it were of a significant output level you would feel it. I use twenty four 15" drivers to produce these frequencies and while far superior to any conventional sub, it's still not good enough. You can still hear the distortion components when playing these low tones.
> 
> 
> My ARC is being returned today. While they say it may be capable of what I need in the future, there is no guarantee of future upgrades so for now I need to just take it back. Maybe later I will be able to try again.
> 
> 
> mk



Actually his Stereo curves look a lot better than yours. Although he does appear to have some roll off BELOW 25Hz, he does not have the roll off ABOVE 25 HZ that your charts were showing. Look at the volume level of the Target curve at 25Hz and compare to the "basic volume level" of the solution (the flat part of the Target curve to the right of the Room Gain hump). They match. Now look at the same thing on your charts. There's already a significant drop at 25Hz.


The point being, he may have less than 5dB drop by 15Hz -- which of course the charts don't actually show us.


Now look at what ARC is trying to correct near 25Hz. The impact of having to cut that peak is probably carrying over below 25Hz. So part of the roll off is coming from that and part is coming from undoing the Room Gain hump at the low frequency end.


Neither of those apply to the correction ARC should be producing for your results.


So I'm still not convinced there isn't a setup error in your ARC results, Monte. Or a bug that's more easily fixed than the sort of design change you are talking about.


------------------------------------------


As inexpensive as ARC is, I think you should hold on to it and work this problem some more with Anthem.


They have a long history of putting out special versions for folks with unique configurations as part of testing possible design improvements.

--Bob


----------



## Alembicjeff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16682235
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that we are still on Double Cookie Watch for the firmware -- awaiting the first poster to power on a new unit and confirm that it comes with either V2.06 or with V2.07 (or later) factory installed.
> 
> 
> We are also still on Cookie Watch for ARC -- awaiting the first poster to install ARC from the CD that comes with a new unit and confirm that ARC V2.2 was shipped in the box.
> 
> 
> To see the firmware, power on the unit and press Select once on the remote to read the firmware number from the front panel display. No need to wire up anything first or do any setup first.
> 
> 
> To see the ARC version number, install ARC from the CD on your Windows PC, run it in Advanced mode and choose About from the Help menu. No need to hook up the ARC mic or serial cable to the Anthem or do any ARC setup.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I believe that the box for my D2v says "V2.06" but I haven't plugged it in yet to confirm.


Jeff.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16682196
> 
> 
> I've no idea why Anthem chose not to add the parts to do it, but Composite video input can only be used as "pass through".
> 
> 
> However, you can get inexpensive, in-line, Composite to S-video converters at Radio Shack and elsewhere so that you can connect to the Anthem S-video inputs which CAN be digitized and processed. The quality aint great, but then the Composite video aint great to begin with.
> 
> 
> I suppose my guess would be Anthem choose not to include Composite input processing because they knew the results couldn't match the quality of what the rest of the unit can do.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. Pity. It would have saved my having to run a separate composite cable all the way to my pj. Maybe I should try that converter and see how much degration it introduces in the process.

Ben


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16682348
> 
> 
> Actually his Stereo curves look a lot better than yours. Although he does appear to have some roll off BELOW 25Hz, he does not have the roll off ABOVE 25 HZ that your charts were showing. Look at the volume level of the Target curve at 25Hz and compare to the "basic volume level" of the solution (the flat part of the Target curve to the right of the Room Gain hump). They match. Now look at the same thing on your charts. There's already a significant drop at 25Hz.
> 
> 
> The point being, he may have less than 5dB drop by 15Hz -- which of course the charts don't actually show us.
> 
> 
> Now look at what ARC is trying to correct near 25Hz. The impact of having to cut that peak is probably carrying over below 25Hz. So part of the roll off is coming from that and part is coming from undoing the Room Gain hump at the low frequency end.
> 
> 
> Neither of those apply to the correction ARC should be producing for your results.
> 
> 
> So I'm still not convinced there isn't a setup error in your ARC results, Monte. Or a bug that's more easily fixed than the sort of design change you are talking about.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> As inexpensive as ARC is, I think you should hold on to it and work this problem some more with Anthem.
> 
> 
> They have a long history of putting out special versions for folks with unique configurations as part of testing possible design improvements.
> 
> --Bob



I see what you are saying Bob, you're right about the absolute levels at 25 Hz compared with the level area of the pass band but actually you can't look at analog filter functions this way. You have to look at the flat portion that runs from about 40 Hz to 140 Hz or so. The roll off below that is the actual high pass filter being applied. The sum of this high pass filter and the "apparent" band pass filter lift the overall response such that the level at 25 Hz is similar to the stable area of the pass band but that doesn't change the fact that the high pass filter is still where it is, in this case about 30 Hz.


Also, we are looking here at a speaker room combination as opposed to directly at the signal. By, "apparent" band pass I mean that this is not actually a band pass boost. It's just the target response based on ARC's measurement of the power response in the room. Based on the spatial averages ARC has determined that there must be about 6 ~ 7 dB more low frequency energy in the room (assuming this was automatically calculated instead of manually forced) to avoid sounding thin. This doesn't mean that the signal will be boosted by this amount, it means that a spatial average measurement should look like this when the on axis frequency response of the speaker is flat. ARC does this by by comparing time windowed responses to know the difference between the direct sound field and the indirect reflected sound. ARC is actually quite complex and deserves far more respect than I had originally thought.


So if the actual signal were measured it would not necessarily show any boost in this region. The actual signal might be flat all the way from the 400 Hz or so where this curve begins to rise all the way down to about 40 Hz where it begins to drop. At about 30 Hz it is -3 dB. We will see this in the actual signal but again most likely will not see any band pass boost in the signal which means the actual output of the processor likely looks about the same as mine.


The reasoning behind the "room gain" hump in the low frequency response is based on the frequency dependent directivity factor of loudspeakers. Think of a speaker sitting in a space. Now think of a circle drawn around the speaker. Think of the radius as the dB level of the output. The area within the circle is the amount of acoustic energy being radiated. This describes the speaker's output at low frequency. Now think of an ellipse drawn such that one end touches the front of the speaker and the other end touches the circle. The end that touches the circle represents the dB level of the speaker at high frequency. Because the circle represented this at low frequency and because they touch here, both high frequency and low frequency are the same. (A flat on axis frequency response). Now consider the area of the ellipse. This represents the total energy at this high frequency. So, this speaker that has a flat on axis response radiates low frequency into the room with a total energy equal to the area of the circle and it radiates high frequency into the room equal to the area of the ellipse. The area of the ellipse is far smaller than the area of the circle thus far less high frequency is radiated even though the on axis response is flat.


Now we have seen that a conventional speaker with a flat on axis frequency response will radiate far more low frequency into a room than it does high frequency. If in our spatial measurements we equalize the response flat, the radius of the circle representing the direct sound from the woofer will be reduced while the extension of the ellipse representing the high frequency response will not. This means the direct sound field will no longer be flat but rather be seriously lacking in bass. As a result, it will sound thin. To avoid this, we must allow the results of spatial measurements which include both room and speaker to result in a rise in bass response. The extra off axis bass output being included in the measurement causes this rise. ARC is aware of this through what us old timers use to call, "Time delay Spectrometry". Actually I guess they still call it that but it simply means ARC knows the difference between direct sound and indirect based on signal arrival time. I'm speculating about ARC here, it's the way these things are normally done and I can't think of any other way ARC could do it.


The better solution in my humble opinion is to start with a speaker that radiates sound more uniformly. That is a speaker that not only has a flat on axis response but also a flat off axis response. By flat I don't necessarily mean flat at the same amplitude, it may or may not be attenuated off axis but if so, all frequencies should be attenuated equally. There are only two ways to do this and that is to make high frequency as non directional as low frequency is naturally or to make low frequency directional similarly to high frequency. I've chosen the latter. The result is there is no additional low frequency caused by the off axis response and thus no need for a spatial average measurement to have a rise in bass response. For me, the SQ of this solution is infinitely better than conventional speakers. The direct and indirect sound fields are far more similar and the result is far more natural sound. Another result is no room gain hump in the ARC measurement.


Anyway, hopefully my descriptions of all this were not too muddy.


mk


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob and others.

I am so impressed by ARC and what happened to me made me even more impressed.

Long time ago with my old pre/pro I installed the spikes for my speakers because they are sitting on carpet and I did not feel any difference. So I removed the spikes to at least save the carper from spikes. A few days ago I installed the spikes again to test it with ARC. And wow, the sound came too bright to a point that at high vollume the center speaker sounded like blowing a horn. I was totally impressed how accurate ARC is that even spikes made a huge difference.


I did my ARC again to improve my chart a bit. The result is posted. Would you please review and let me know if this is acceptable or I am still missing a lot in high frequency or any other place. I also have a question: Do I still need to adjust the Crossover even with the ARC is on or ARC will take care of that?

By the way, I found one more thing. Adjust your speaker distances a bit up or down the actual distances based on what sounds good to you. I did that last night and I got sound so clear that now I don't have to crank it up to hear the small details.

Thanks in advance.

 

3.doc 48k . file

 

2.doc 133k . file

 

1.doc 134.5k . file


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16682325
> 
> 
> Man - you must be a bass freak!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I had that many drivers in my room that house would probably fall down under high volumes! Do you have any photos?
> 
> 
> My front speakers are rated: Frequency response: 27Hz-25kHz ±2dB. So the 25 Hz is probably smack on for 2-channel stereo without my subwoofer.
> 
> 
> I only have a single 18-inch subwoofer, but it provides ample bass for me for movies.
> 
> 
> Mike



Yes and no. I would describe myself more of a low distortion freak. Having so many drivers arranged in infinite line columns means the drivers never work very hard and thus distortion is reduced. Also, everyone always talks about, "fast bass". Well there really isn't any such thing. If the cone is faster that just means higher frequency. Nevertheless there is such a thing as acoustic coupling.


A small surface area moving a lot might move the same volume of air as a larger or more cones moving a little but it is poorly coupled to the room acoustically. Its cone does have to move faster because it's traveling farther to complete a cycle but as long as it can produce any particular frequency, there is no such thing as it needing to be still faster. The problem is that the long travel (excursion) and corresponding higher cone velocity produces more noise. This is an additional problem to the poor acoustic coupling. What I wanted to achieve was to have a very large area moving just a little. This reduces the required cone velocity thus reducing noise and it greatly improves the acoustic coupling to the room. This produces the so called (if misnamed) fast bass. Transient response on movie effects are simply astounding. With conventional systems explosions etc seem to happen slow like there is no leading edge to them or the leading edge is blunt. With this system you get a feel for that percussion wave which seems to happen instantaneously. The 15" drivers have 14 mm peak X- max so it's not like they can't move a lot if they need to. So a side effect is that it can not only play very low distortion bass at normal levels but it can also play very high output bass if you want it to.


Yes, I do have photos here... http://www.mfk-projects.com/theatre_woofer.htm 


mk


----------



## bdrozda

Just got my D2 last week and took the time to set it up manually and read as many posts as possible before installing and running Arc.


My dilema is that I have an off center prime listening position and secondary listening position. I have a fireplace in the middle back, primary recliner in the right corner and secondary recliner in the left corner (with surrounds on the floor pointing up directly behind the recliners - not as bad as you think, no other alternatives). Believe it or not, the FR, C, & FL SPL are all at 75db from all three positions. The sub is in the front left corner and pushes the db off the chart in the left rear recliner (opposite corner). Other 2 positions at 75db.


My main question is what distances to use for the surrounds since they are

2 ft from either listening position (5 ft from the center position) and what sequence should I do measurements from: Primary (cannot alternate symetrically) or Central


Choice: 1) from center,then primary, then secondary

5 4

312



or 2) from Primary then secondary, then central

4 5

231


or other?


Thanks,


Bill


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16679533
> 
> 
> Whenever you have interference noise like this it is also a good idea to try to eliminate possible Ground Loop sources.
> 
> 
> For example, temporarily disconnect the cable/satellite feed wire between the wall and your set top box. Note it is insufficient to just turn off the set top box.
> 
> 
> Also, try using analog inputs -- perhaps the 6 channel analog inputs with HDMI disconnected from the Oppo and from your display. If the noise is still in there then you've eliminated HDMI cable and HDMI handshake as the cause. It could be broken Oppo, faulty (corrupted) DSP firmware in the Anthem, or a failing analog output stage in the Anthem. Try with a different analog source to eliminate the Oppo as the cause.
> 
> --Bob



Well, I've gotten a bit further with this - it is definitely not specific to a source - I can get the static to occur when playing either the HDMI from my Oppo as well as the optical SPDIF from the cable box or my media player. That is good because it eliminated a lot of upstream variables like cables, the Oppo etc.


For a while I thought interference was prime candidate, and it still might be. I disconnected my cable coax (which has an isolation transformer on it anyway) with no change. Also tried turning off all the auxiliary gear around my system except the amp and Oppo without effect.


Now the hopeful sign. I upgraded the firmware to 2.07. Since doing that I have not heard the static sound, which is good. Still need more testing though to feel for sure it is the solution. If it stays that way I'll be




























.


Thanks for your suggestions. Montekay is right, you should be on Anthem's payroll.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16685400
> 
> 
> thanks for your suggestions. Montekay is right, you should be on anthem's payroll.



+1


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16685400
> 
> 
> Well, I've gotten a bit further with this - it is definitely not specific to a source - I can get the static to occur when playing either the HDMI from my Oppo as well as the optical SPDIF from the cable box or my media player. That is good because it eliminated a lot of upstream variables like cables, the Oppo etc.
> 
> 
> For a while I thought interference was prime candidate, and it still might be. I disconnected my cable coax (which has an isolation transformer on it anyway) with no change. Also tried turning off all the auxiliary gear around my system except the amp and Oppo without effect.
> 
> 
> Now the hopeful sign. I upgraded the firmware to 2.07. Since doing that I have not heard the static sound, which is good. Still need more testing though to feel for sure it is the solution. If it stays that way I'll be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Thanks for your suggestions. Montekay is right, you should be on Anthem's payroll.



Thanks for the kind words (everyone)!


With any luck it will just turn out you had a bad V2.06 firmware install. I forget who the other person one who posted about such noise, but if your result stays good, an install or re-install of V2.07 firmware on that Anthem would also be in order.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bdrozda* /forum/post/16685276
> 
> 
> Just got my D2 last week and took the time to set it up manually and read as many posts as possible before installing and running Arc.
> 
> 
> My dilema is that I have an off center prime listening position and secondary listening position. I have a fireplace in the middle back, primary recliner in the right corner and secondary recliner in the left corner (with surrounds on the floor pointing up directly behind the recliners - not as bad as you think, no other alternatives). Believe it or not, the FR, C, & FL SPL are all at 75db from all three positions. The sub is in the front left corner and pushes the db off the chart in the left rear recliner (opposite corner). Other 2 positions at 75db.
> 
> 
> My main question is what distances to use for the surrounds since they are
> 
> 2 ft from either listening position (5 ft from the center position) and what sequence should I do measurements from: Primary (cannot alternate symetrically) or Central
> 
> 
> Choice: 1) from center,then primary, then secondary
> 
> 5 4
> 
> 312
> 
> 
> 
> or 2) from Primary then secondary, then central
> 
> 4 5
> 
> 231
> 
> 
> or other?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Bill



My inclination would be to go with Door #1.


Another possibility would be Door #3:

___5

6_3

421


The mic #1 position is special because that's the one that is used for setting speaker levels. Alternating either side of that helps make sure the mic positions are spaced out so that ARC has a chance to hear room responses as distinct from speaker performance.


I'd probably start with Door #1 and then put a chair temporarily in the center position and compare results there with what you get in your 2 corner seats. If you can't tell enough difference to matter to you then declare victory.


-------------------------------------


Normally you'd set all the speaker distances according to their distance from mic position #1 (wherever you end up deciding to put that).


But those up-firing rear surrounds behind the seats are acting a lot like "dipole" speakers in that the sound really isn't reaching the ears directly, but rather via reflections. In that case an easy solution would be to specify them as dipole which means the Anthem will automatically time them to coincide with the sound from your furthest speaker.


Obviously you can't have the speaker timings correct in both corners, so your choice really is between emphasizing one corner's quality over the other or a compromise. As I said, I'd probably go with Door #1 -- central placement -- and set the distances to mic position #1, but try the dipole alternative for those up-firing rear surrounds.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/16683393
> 
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> The better solution in my humble opinion is to start with a speaker that radiates sound more uniformly. That is a speaker that not only has a flat on axis response but also a flat off axis response. By flat I don't necessarily mean flat at the same amplitude, it may or may not be attenuated off axis but if so, all frequencies should be attenuated equally. There are only two ways to do this and that is to make high frequency as non directional as low frequency is naturally or to make low frequency directional similarly to high frequency. I've chosen the latter. The result is there is no additional low frequency caused by the off axis response and thus no need for a spatial average measurement to have a rise in bass response. For me, the SQ of this solution is infinitely better than conventional speakers. The direct and indirect sound fields are far more similar and the result is far more natural sound. Another result is no room gain hump in the ARC measurement.
> 
> 
> Anyway, hopefully my descriptions of all this were not too muddy.
> 
> 
> mk



Thanks for taking the time to write that up! It was an interesting read.


I can see why you might come to the conclusion that the basic assumptions built into ARC won't fit with your speaker design, but there are some rather smart people working on this stuff at Anthem and it wouldn't surprise me if they take on this challenge. I would think the key would be recognizing that near-zero measured Room Gain means an alternate approach might be in order at the lowest frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16683753
> 
> 
> Hello Bob and others.
> 
> I am so impressed by ARC and what happened to me made me even more impressed.
> 
> Long time ago with my old pre/pro I installed the spikes for my speakers because they are sitting on carpet and I did not feel any difference. So I removed the spikes to at least save the carper from spikes. A few days ago I installed the spikes again to test it with ARC. And wow, the sound came too bright to a point that at high vollume the center speaker sounded like blowing a horn. I was totally impressed how accurate ARC is that even spikes made a huge difference.
> 
> 
> I did my ARC again to improve my chart a bit. The result is posted. Would you please review and let me know if this is acceptable or I am still missing a lot in high frequency or any other place. I also have a question: Do I still need to adjust the Crossover even with the ARC is on or ARC will take care of that?
> 
> By the way, I found one more thing. Adjust your speaker distances a bit up or down the actual distances based on what sounds good to you. I did that last night and I got sound so clear that now I don't have to crank it up to hear the small details.
> 
> Thanks in advance.



First I suggest you do *NOT* fiddle with the "Cutoff" values ARC chooses in the Targets window, nor with the "Crossover" values ARC Uploads into the Setup menu. You'll just mess up the room correction solution ARC has calculated, and there's not really any reason to WANT to fiddle with these based on your charts. They are fine right where they are. [I'm assuming that the subwoofer Crossover value ARC actually Uploads into the Setup menu is smaller than the 120Hz "Cutoff" it is showing in your Targets window -- something that is perfectly normal for the V2.x ARC versions.]


Next, if you are using THX post processing, I suggest you TURN THAT OFF now that you have ARC set up and revert your speaker distances back to the actual distances. THX does some stuff in the surrounds which is kind of like miss-adjusting the speaker distances for them. Normally this results in a good effect (de-correlating the sound between the surrounds), but ARC's solution is so good that adding in that THX stuff weakens it. And fiddling with the speaker distances is a band-aid solution to that. So if you have THX on for listening with ARC turn THX off and see if the "real" speaker distances don't sound best again.


From my probably vague memory of your prior charts, these new charts don't look significantly different to me. Which means my comments from your prior charts would likely still apply. ARC has helped the high frequencies quite a bit by you still have some residual error there, particularly in the Right Surround. And I'd be happier if you didn't have that dip in the peak of your subwoofer. But the solution is good enough that you should probably spend some time just enjoying it.


As you've discovered, even small movements of speakers can change things so it is definitely correct to redo your ARC setup after moving speakers -- such as raising them up as you did.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem updated the ARC download kit yesterday both on the public download pages and on the password protected download page.


The ONLY change was to add a clarification to the text file included in the Utilities folder to point out that although the new Setup Editor utility currently only works for the new D2v and AVM 50v units, the separate Settings Backup utility works for both the old and new units Anthem units.


Use Settings Backup to save and restore the Setup menu via a PC file. For the D2v and AVM 50v you can also do this with Setup Editor, but Setup Editor also provides the additional ability to view and edit those settings from your PC.


For all units, Live Video Settings Editor provides viewing, editing and backup for the Video Source Adjust menu settings.


ARC remains unchanged at V2.2 and the manual and the various utility programs themselves also remain unchanged.

--Bob


----------



## bdrozda




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16686736
> 
> 
> My inclination would be to go with Door #1.
> 
> 
> Another possibility would be Door #3:
> 
> ___5
> 
> 6_3
> 
> 421
> 
> 
> The mic #1 position is special because that's the one that is used for setting speaker levels. Alternating either side of that helps make sure the mic positions are spaced out so that ARC has a chance to hear room responses as distinct from speaker performance.
> 
> 
> I'd probably start with Door #1 and then put a chair temporarily in the center position and compare results there with what you get in your 2 corner seats. If you can't tell enough difference to matter to you then declare victory.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Normally you'd set all the speaker distances according to their distance from mic position #1 (wherever you end up deciding to put that).
> 
> 
> But those up-firing rear surrounds behind the seats are acting a lot like "dipole" speakers in that the sound really isn't reaching the ears directly, but rather via reflections. In that case an easy solution would be to specify them as dipole which means the Anthem will automatically time them to coincide with the sound from your furthest speaker.
> 
> 
> Obviously you can't have the speaker timings correct in both corners, so your choice really is between emphasizing one corner's quality over the other or a compromise. As I said, I'd probably go with Door #1 -- central placement -- and set the distances to mic position #1, but try the dipole alternative for those up-firing rear surrounds.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,

I currently have all speakers calibrated to the center position (distance/75db) so it sounds like I guessed correctly. Do I need to recalibrate the surrounds @ 75db as dipoles before running Arc, or is this a simple a/b after running Arc. I plan to run Arc this weekend and will let you know my results. Also, if the actual output is too load/soft because it is measured from the center position, will adjusting it on the fly alter the affects of Arc? If not, can I then reset the surround db to the optimal volume?


Bill


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bdrozda* /forum/post/16687944
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> I currently have all speakers calibrated to the center position (distance/75db) so it sounds like I guessed correctly. Do I need to recalibrate the surrounds @ 75db as dipoles before running Arc, or is this a simple a/b after running Arc. I plan to run Arc this weekend and will let you know my results. Also, if the actual output is too load/soft because it is measured from the center position, will adjusting it on the fly alter the affects of Arc? If not, can I then reset the surround db to the optimal volume?
> 
> 
> Bill



It hasn't come up here before, but my guess would be you can change the Direct/Dipole setting in Setup > Speaker Configuration without having to redo ARC. My understanding is that it only alters the way the speaker distances are applied for those speakers and ARC doesn't care about speaker distances since it only listens to one speaker at a time.


If you find a level problem while listening I suggest you first try using the "temporary" level adjustments available on the remote -- the little buttons surrounding the Select button. Changes to those don't alter the values in the Setup menu.


Keep in mind that any level problem you hear may simply be due to the particular audio mix on whatever you are watching. So don't be too quick to undo whatever effect was built into that audio track.


It's easy to get confused about how you left those temporary settings. So be aware there's a trick for resetting ALL the temporary settings back to their default position. Save User Settings, Reload Factory Defaults, and Reload User Settings. The temporary settings aren't saved so this restores them to defaults.

--Bob


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16686668
> 
> 
> Thanks for the kind words (everyone)!
> 
> 
> With any luck it will just turn out you had a bad V2.06 firmware install. I forget who the other person one who posted about such noise, but if your result stays good, an install or re-install of V2.07 firmware on that Anthem would also be in order.
> 
> --Bob



So far today no static and I've been giving it a pretty good workout playing Baraka at reference.


Also I found my SIIG Single Serial PC Card worked very well as a means of connecting my laptop to the D2V. It found the D2V with no fuss at all. I have to think this is more stable than a USB/Serial adapter.


Now on to ARC.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16688660
> 
> 
> So far today no static and I've been giving it a pretty good workout playing Baraka at reference.
> 
> 
> Also I found my SIIG Single Serial PC Card worked very well as a means of connecting my laptop to the D2V. It found the D2V with no fuss at all. I have to think this is more stable than a USB/Serial adapter.
> 
> 
> Now on to ARC.




Thank you..... ive been saying this all along...

\\

there are good inexpensive cards out there like this instead of having to deal with USB.....


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16688794
> 
> 
> Thank you..... ive been saying this all along...
> 
> \\
> 
> there are good inexpensive cards out there like this instead of having to deal with USB.....



I've never had a problem with the USB/Serial adapter Bob keeps recommending. Worked every time (and I've used it a ton).


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16688821
> 
> 
> I've never had a problem with the USB/Serial adapter Bob keeps recommending. Worked every time (and I've used it a ton).



Yeah I'm running Vista 64 and didn't want to have a problem, and its been great for me with the PCMCIA card... At $20.00 couldn't go wrong either..


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16686800
> 
> 
> First I suggest you do *NOT* fiddle with the "Cutoff" values ARC chooses in the Targets window, nor with the "Crossover" values ARC Uploads into the Setup menu. You'll just mess up the room correction solution ARC has calculated, and there's not really any reason to WANT to fiddle with these based on your charts. They are fine right where they are. [I'm assuming that the subwoofer Crossover value ARC actually Uploads into the Setup menu is smaller than the 120Hz "Cutoff" it is showing in your Targets window -- something that is perfectly normal for the V2.x ARC versions.]
> 
> 
> Next, if you are using THX post processing, I suggest you TURN THAT OFF now that you have ARC set up and revert your speaker distances back to the actual distances. THX does some stuff in the surrounds which is kind of like miss-adjusting the speaker distances for them. Normally this results in a good effect (de-correlating the sound between the surrounds), but ARC's solution is so good that adding in that THX stuff weakens it. And fiddling with the speaker distances is a band-aid solution to that. So if you have THX on for listening with ARC turn THX off and see if the "real" speaker distances don't sound best again.
> 
> 
> From my probably vague memory of your prior charts, these new charts don't look significantly different to me. Which means my comments from your prior charts would likely still apply. ARC has helped the high frequencies quite a bit by you still have some residual error there, particularly in the Right Surround. And I'd be happier if you didn't have that dip in the peak of your subwoofer. But the solution is good enough that you should probably spend some time just enjoying it.
> 
> 
> As you've discovered, even small movements of speakers can change things so it is definitely correct to redo your ARC setup after moving speakers -- such as raising them up as you did.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. The previous chart was not as good in the high freq. Even these are not perfect but sound much better especially the sub after upgrading to ARC 2.2. I don't have THX on but a little change in speaker distances made a huge difference.

As you suggested I will enjoy it for now because it is absolutely fantastic but again I don't know how much I am missing due to the dip in sub and high freq. Thanks again Bob. I appreciat


----------



## kkohr1467

Bob,


I just received my Keyspan USB to serial adapter and I have been trying to upgrade to 2.07. Everything goes fine till the update gets to the the video processor and then it fails. (video processor reset failed)


My D2V does indicate 2.07 is installed but I get no video through HDMI. Maybe some settings with the keyspan driver needs changed.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kkohr1467* /forum/post/16691160
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I just received my Keyspan USB to serial adapter and I have been trying to upgrade to 2.07. Everything goes fine till the update gets to the the video processor and then it fails. (video processor reset failed)
> 
> 
> My D2V does indicate 2.07 is installed but I get no video through HDMI. Maybe some settings with the keyspan driver needs changed.



Not Bob, but did you make sure to unplug all your HDMI cables before the install?


----------



## kkohr1467




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16691208
> 
> 
> Not Bob, but did you make sure to unplug all your HDMI cables before the install?



Sure did.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Since you got that far in the install process it is unlikely the problem is your serial connection.


Download a fresh copy of the V2.07 installer just in case their was a problem with your first copy and run it again. Do it just as if it was the first try, including Reloading Factory Defaults and removing wall power from all HDMI sources and displays first.


If the install continues to fail, give Anthem tech support a call on Monday. They will likely give you access to the Flash Eraser utility which is a tool that forces all of the programmable parts of the unit into a reset state to accept a new install.


Also make sure you have no other applications running during the install, and that your PC doesn't go into sleep or screen saver during the install.

--Bob


----------



## tomdac

Hey all,

got my D2 all set up and did some serious tweaking yesterday and today. First all, I downloaded the latest D2 software and applied it to the D2, then I upgraded the ARC software and began playing with ARC.


Ran it a couple of times just to see how it worked and then uploaded the results to the D2 and then turned on the room EQ for my Squeezebox.


I'm not sure what the charts indicate, but my ears noticed a huge difference!! better focus in the soundstage, a more open and airy sound... My Summits never sounded so good!!


Tom


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tomdac* /forum/post/16693212
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what the charts indicate, but my ears noticed a huge difference!! better focus in the soundstage, a more open and airy sound... My Summits never sounded so good!!
> 
> Tom



You had some huge peaks in the response that ARC has removed. I bet you did notice a night and day difference!


mk


----------



## ninja12

I have a D2 v1.33 with ARC v2.2. I decided to do a measurement last night because the house was very quiet, and I have never done a measurement with ARC v2.2 even though I knew there really was hardly any difference between ARC v2.1 and ARC v2.2. So, after the measurement and as always, my room gain was 0.000000. According to Nick, since my room has some bass traps, I will probably never get any room gain. So, as usual, I put in my own room gain. At first, I put in 3.5 which was a little too much. So, I backed it down to 3.0 which seem to look pretty good. However, I went a step further and backed it down to 2.5. When I did that, I noticed some wobbles in my FR speakers in the lower frequencies. So, I put it back to 3.0, and the wobbles went away. I am pretty puzzled why I would be getting wobbles with a lower room gain. Could someone please take a shot at answering that for me because I can't figure it out.


BTW: HAPPY FATHER'S DAY to all fathers and soon to be fathers. Mine has been FANTASTIC!!!!


----------



## bdrozda




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bdrozda* /forum/post/16687944
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> I currently have all speakers calibrated to the center position (distance/75db) so it sounds like I guessed correctly. Do I need to recalibrate the surrounds @ 75db as dipoles before running Arc, or is this a simple a/b after running Arc. I plan to run Arc this weekend and will let you know my results. Also, if the actual output is too load/soft because it is measured from the center position, will adjusting it on the fly alter the affects of Arc? If not, can I then reset the surround db to the optimal volume?
> 
> 
> Bill



Bob,


I ran Arc using the center position (door #1). However, I had to jury rig the mic because like another post, my Arc kit did not contain the correct mic clip.

I hope that didn't distort the measurements.

I thought the cutoffs were surprisingly low for center (B&W HTM), surrounds (B&W 601 S3's) & sub (Velodyne DD12 - preset 6 all xovers off).

Curious on your thoughts of the curves. Calculations appear ok, except the surrounds (haven't done the dipole setting yet).

See attached charts:

Cuttoffs:

LF 60

C 60

RF 60

LS 60

RS 60

Sub 80

Crossovers:

LF 60

C 60

RF 60

LS 60

RS 60

Sub 60


Bill


----------



## jayray

bdrozda,


Your curves look quite good except for the high frequencies, they drop off a lot. Try changing the max. freq. to 12000 or 15000 or even 20000 and see how the highs change. Check your low freq after you do this to make sure they don't change. If the lows are not greatly affected then upload and give it a listen.

John


----------



## Charlie_Phogg

Lead time update. I ordered a D2v May 5th (actually ordered a AVM50v May 2nd but changed my mind and modified the order May 5th) and received an email from my dealer Thur. saying he had talked with Anthem. They indicated my unit was in the queue and 2 weeks from being built. Adding a week for shipping would put it here in just over 9 weeks. So, if this info is correct it looks like the lead times are holding steady in the 8-10 week range.


On a technical note, do all the ARC settings get saved when one does a save user/installer setting? I know the settings that ARC changes in the various settings menus will be saved but what about all the hidden ARC info?


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16694856
> 
> 
> Lead time update. I ordered a D2v May 5th (actually ordered a AVM50v May 2nd but changed my mind and modified the order May 5th) and received an email from my dealer Thur. saying he had talked with Anthem. They indicated my unit was in the queue and 2 weeks from being built. Adding a week for shipping would put it here in just over 9 weeks. So, if this info is correct it looks like the lead times are holding steady in the 8-10 week range.
> 
> 
> On a technical note, do all the ARC settings get saved when one does a save user/installer setting? I know the settings that ARC changes in the various settings menus will be saved but what about all the hidden ARC info?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yes they are saved.

John


----------



## ehlarson

Please find attached my first attempt with ARC. Suggestions much appreciated.


Speakers are Revel Performas across the fronts, sub is a SVS BP12/Plus-2, and surrounds are M&K SS-150's.


I'm rather puzzled as to what could be causing the dip at 15KHz.


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16694865
> 
> 
> Yes they are saved.
> 
> John



Thanks John


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16695304
> 
> 
> Please find attached my first attempt with ARC. Suggestions much appreciated.
> 
> 
> Speakers are Revel Performas across the fronts, sub is a SVS BP12/Plus-2, and surrounds are M&K SS-150's.
> 
> 
> I'm rather puzzled as to what could be causing the dip at 15KHz.



Are the Revels angled 30 degrees towards you or are they facing directly at your rear wall? Is the center angled directly to your head? This might be causing the 15k dip or its just the response of the speakers.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/16695605
> 
> 
> Are the Revels angled 30 degrees towards you or are they facing directly at your rear wall? Is the center angled directly to your head? This might be causing the 15k dip or its just the response of the speakers.



The speakers are aimed towards the center seating position. So you are saying this might be causing the dip?


The LCR speakers are supposed to be ±0.5 dB from 33 Hz to 18 kHz in-room.


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kkohr1467* /forum/post/16691160
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I just received my Keyspan USB to serial adapter and I have been trying to upgrade to 2.07. Everything goes fine till the update gets to the the video processor and then it fails. (video processor reset failed)
> 
> 
> My D2V does indicate 2.07 is installed but I get no video through HDMI. Maybe some settings with the keyspan driver needs changed.



I have the same issue running 64bit Windows 7..



but..


I did get it to work..


I installed the virtual XP for windows7, then ran the anthem software from there, all worked perfect..


I emailed Nick about my findings..


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16695747
> 
> 
> The speakers are aimed towards the center seating position. So you are saying this might be causing the dip?
> 
> 
> The LCR speakers are supposed to be ±0.5 dB from 33 Hz to 18 kHz in-room.




I had my mains toed into the LP quite a bit and found over a coarse of many measurements the pattern that showed the HF dropped heavily over having much less toe in....


This also showed up to a vast amount of how many sample points I used as well... the more sample points (7) spread out farther for me showed quite a drop in HF response as opposed to 5 sample points in a more concentrated area showed less HF drop.... YMMV and my LP is spread out much more then many other peoples with my situation and room setup..


I have found less toe in got me a very nice balance between the 2.... I can't hear over 17K -18K hz anyways.... so its makes no difference to me..


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16696115
> 
> 
> I had my mains toed into the LP quite a bit and found over a coarse of many measurements the pattern that showed the HF dropped heavily over having much less toe in....
> 
> 
> This also showed up to a vast amount of how many sample points I used as well... the more sample points (7) spread out farther for me showed quite a drop in HF response as opposed to 5 sample points in a more concentrated area showed less HF drop.... YMMV and my LP is spread out much more then many other peoples with my situation and room setup..
> 
> 
> I have found less toe in got me a very nice balance between the 2.... I can't hear over 17K -18K hz anyways.... so its makes no difference to me..



I wish it were possible to view plots of the responses at individual positions. That might give added insight in a situation like this.


Has anyone tried looking at the raw file format to see if the data is in there?


----------



## bdrozda




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16694843
> 
> 
> bdrozda,
> 
> 
> Your curves look quite good except for the high frequencies, they drop off a lot. Try changing the max. freq. to 12000 or 15000 or even 20000 and see how the highs change. Check your low freq after you do this to make sure they don't change. If the lows are not greatly affected then upload and give it a listen.
> 
> John



Jayray,

This is my first run so please clarify for me "High frequencies roll off quite a lot".

Actuals have some dropoff, but calculated = target except the surrounds (expected, see previous posts - need to take Bob up on his Dipole suggestion). If you are talking about > 5K, I thought we are supposed to ignore those. Or was I confusing it with ignore graph results for targets > 5K and just go by the sound.


Thanks,


Bill


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tomdac* /forum/post/16693212
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> got my D2 all set up and did some serious tweaking yesterday and today. First all, I downloaded the latest D2 software and applied it to the D2, then I upgraded the ARC software and began playing with ARC.
> 
> 
> Ran it a couple of times just to see how it worked and then uploaded the results to the D2 and then turned on the room EQ for my Squeezebox.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what the charts indicate, but my ears noticed a huge difference!! better focus in the soundstage, a more open and airy sound... My Summits never sounded so good!!
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom, you might want to toe in the Summits slightly to lift the hi-freqs a bit rather than follow strictly to the 'inner third' that ML advises - not too much, or you lose stage width. Also, experiment with the vertical shift - I assume you also have the jtwrace spikes. I found that the more vertical the panels, the brighter the sound.

Ben


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bdrozda* /forum/post/16699279
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> This is my first run so please clarify for me "High frequencies roll off quite a lot".
> 
> Actuals have some dropoff, but calculated = target except the surrounds (expected, see previous posts - need to take Bob up on his Dipole suggestion). If you are talking about > 5K, I thought we are supposed to ignore those. Or was I confusing it with ignore graph results for targets > 5K and just go by the sound.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Bill



Bill,

I was suggesting you raise the MAX EQUILIZATION FREQ. from 5K to something higher, say 20K and look to see if any changes occur at the lower freq. If the lower freq. change significantly, lower the max. eq. freq. down and keep calculating until the curves look good overall.

It just seems you have set your max. at the lowest Anthem recommends. I thought it might be interesting to see. Changing the max. freq. can make a big diff, so no, don't ingnore it but play around to see if it makes some audible diff. As for Bob's suggestion, I would never contradict it










John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tomdac* /forum/post/16693212
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> got my D2 all set up and did some serious tweaking yesterday and today. First all, I downloaded the latest D2 software and applied it to the D2, then I upgraded the ARC software and began playing with ARC.
> 
> 
> Ran it a couple of times just to see how it worked and then uploaded the results to the D2 and then turned on the room EQ for my Squeezebox.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what the charts indicate, but my ears noticed a huge difference!! better focus in the soundstage, a more open and airy sound... My Summits never sounded so good!!
> 
> 
> Tom



Basically you are in good shape. Your speakers could use some help in the high frequencies so I suggest you try raising Max EQ Frequency target to tell ARC it is OK to apply correction up there. Open up your results file in Advanced mode, bring up the Targets window, change the Max EQ Frequency target value for Movies and Music (the default setting is 5KHz), accept those changes, and re-Calculate. If you like how the new, green Calculated curves look, do an Upload and give it a listen. No need to re-Measure to do this.


Start by pushing it all the way up the the 20KHz top limit and see how the curves look. What you are looking for is new wobbles (residual error) showing up at the lower frequencies due to ARC diverting resources up to the higher frequencies. If you don't seen anything worth worrying about, then stick with 20KHz. Otherwise try again -- backing off Max EQ Frequency Target looking for a nice compromise value that gives you good correction in the high frequencies without introducing too much new error in the low frequencies. Since you don't have to re-Measure, you can run through a whole bunch of trial values in no time at all.


By the way, your curves are another good example of ARC dealing well with "full range" LF/RF speakers and no subwoofer. You are only down a couple dB at 20Hz from the basic volume level of your solution, so I think your subsonic bass should sound quite wonderful. Enjoy!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16694003
> 
> 
> I have a D2 v1.33 with ARC v2.2. I decided to do a measurement last night because the house was very quiet, and I have never done a measurement with ARC v2.2 even though I knew there really was hardly any difference between ARC v2.1 and ARC v2.2. So, after the measurement and as always, my room gain was 0.000000. According to Nick, since my room has some bass traps, I will probably never get any room gain. So, as usual, I put in my own room gain. At first, I put in 3.5 which was a little too much. So, I backed it down to 3.0 which seem to look pretty good. However, I went a step further and backed it down to 2.5. When I did that, I noticed some wobbles in my FR speakers in the lower frequencies. So, I put it back to 3.0, and the wobbles went away. I am pretty puzzled why I would be getting wobbles with a lower room gain. Could someone please take a shot at answering that for me because I can't figure it out.
> 
> 
> BTW: HAPPY FATHER'S DAY to all fathers and soon to be fathers. Mine has been FANTASTIC!!!!



ARC builds a mathematical model of what it is trying to achieve. I suspect that by lowering Room Gain, you just went through a transition point where ARC tried a different approach to the solution. Lowering it still further might get you a clean result again.


Since your room has no natural Room Gain, I think pushing it up as high as 3.5 might sound a little odd. I'd be inclined to go for something in the 2 to 2.5dB range. Anyway, it is easy to do a few more trial calculations. If you get a clean looking result at 2dB, I suggest you Upload that one and give it a listen.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bdrozda* /forum/post/16694097
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I ran Arc using the center position (door #1). However, I had to jury rig the mic because like another post, my Arc kit did not contain the correct mic clip.
> 
> I hope that didn't distort the measurements.
> 
> I thought the cutoffs were surprisingly low for center (B&W HTM), surrounds (B&W 601 S3's) & sub (Velodyne DD12 - preset 6 all xovers off).
> 
> Curious on your thoughts of the curves. Calculations appear ok, except the surrounds (haven't done the dipole setting yet).
> 
> See attached charts:
> 
> Cuttoffs:
> 
> LF 60
> 
> C 60
> 
> RF 60
> 
> LS 60
> 
> RS 60
> 
> Sub 80
> 
> Crossovers:
> 
> LF 60
> 
> C 60
> 
> RF 60
> 
> LS 60
> 
> RS 60
> 
> Sub 60
> 
> 
> Bill



The crossovers and cutoffs are fine. Nothing to worry about there. In particular don't worry about losing the higher LFE frequencies due to the low sub crossover setting as ARC handles those specially.


As Jayray has suggested, you too should experiment with a higher value for the Max EQ Frequency target. See the explanation in my post just above.


Judging the curves by eyeball, I think you will likely be able to push that all the way up to 20KHz and still get good results.


High frequencies are directional so you are losing some highs in the surrounds due to placement -- having to bounce that stuff off the walls. Changing to the dipole setting won't change what ARC Measures or how the resulting Calculated curves look, but I think ARC ought to able to get you to within about 3dB of the target curve up there, and that's outstanding given your placement constraints for those speakers.


-------------------------------------------


By the way, what did you mean about "the wrong mic clip"? I don't recall any other post reporting a problem with the mic clip.


The usual problem with the mic clip is that you are trying to push the mic into the wrong end of the clip. The clip has a bit of a taper to it and so you need to flip it so the other end is up and push the mic in that big end.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16694856
> 
> 
> Lead time update. I ordered a D2v May 5th (actually ordered a AVM50v May 2nd but changed my mind and modified the order May 5th) and received an email from my dealer Thur. saying he had talked with Anthem. They indicated my unit was in the queue and 2 weeks from being built. Adding a week for shipping would put it here in just over 9 weeks. So, if this info is correct it looks like the lead times are holding steady in the 8-10 week range.
> 
> 
> On a technical note, do all the ARC settings get saved when one does a save user/installer setting? I know the settings that ARC changes in the various settings menus will be saved but what about all the hidden ARC info?
> 
> 
> Thanks



ARC actually Uploads two different sorts of things. It Uploads settings changes to the Setup menu, and it uploads Room Correction parameters into a special memory that you can not see.


Saving User and/or Installer Settings will capture the Setup menu changes, but NOT the Room Correction parameters. However this is not really a problem as there's basically no way to alter those Room Correction parameters except to do a new ARC Upload. I.e., even if you do a Reload Factory Defaults, or even a new firmware install, the Room Correction parameters remain in place.


So the one gotcha here is mistakenly thinking you can Upload two different ARC solutions and save one in User Settings and the other in Installer Settings so as to do a bit of quick A/B comparison. Nope, that won't work. You'll get the *SETUP MENU* changes for the two solutions stashed in the separate settings memories, but there's always just one, and only one, data set of Room Correction parameters in the Anthem -- reflecting whatever came in as part of the last Upload you did. So if you Reload the settings for the first solution the Setup menu will indeed change but the Room Correction parameters will remain at whatever the second solution Uploaded -- and so you won't hear anything useful for A/B comparison.


To do A/B comparison you really do need to keep doing Uploads for each solution.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16695304
> 
> 
> Please find attached my first attempt with ARC. Suggestions much appreciated.
> 
> 
> Speakers are Revel Performas across the fronts, sub is a SVS BP12/Plus-2, and surrounds are M&K SS-150's.
> 
> 
> I'm rather puzzled as to what could be causing the dip at 15KHz.



It looks like you've got a pretty significant room cancellation dip around 70Hz. Among other things that is causing ARC to treat LF/RF as less than "full range" despite their significant extension into the bass. Some bass traps on the walls/corners might be called for so you can utilize a bit more of the range your fronts are capable of. It also appears to have knocked down the higher frequencies in you sub. ARC has corrected for all of this, but if you deal with the underlying room issue, ARC can likely come up with an even cleaner solution for you.


NOTE: Alternative explanations here would be that you forgot to turn off the crossover built into your sub (or crank it up to the highest frequency setting to get it out of the way as much as possible), or that your front speakers are "combo" speakers with attached, satellite subwoofers and the crossover between the main portion of the speaker and its attached sub is not set correctly.


The high frequency problem at 15KHz is pretty typical of a speaker pointing issue. High frequencies are directional and many speakers have surprising dispersal patterns -- often worse in the vertical direction.


So before you do your next Measurement pass, revisit your speaker pointing. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing. The LF/RF speakers should be "toed-in" a bit, but not swung around all the way to point to the center seating position. A rule of thumb I've found useful is to swing them only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular towards the center seating position.


Also recheck your mic placement. You don't want the mic close to a reflective surface like a seat back. Lift the mic tip a few inches to clear the seat back or move the mic a foot closer to the screen to get it away from a seat back.


Loss of treble can also be due to speaker grill cloth and grill mounting hardware. If you have any sort of custom grill cover, check that the mounting hardware is not in front of the tweeter.


Now you are down 10dB at 15KHz, so if you raise ARC's Max EQ Frequency target value up into the 15-20KHz range ARC will be able to apply almost 6dB of correction against that. The combo of a little better speaker pointing and telling ARC it is OK to apply correction up there may do the trick for you. Check the post a few posts up about how to experiment with Max EQ Frequency target. Since ARC is doing a significant amount of bass correction in your room, you may not be able to push it up to 20KHz without losing quality in the lower frequency portions of the solution. So play around with different values looking for a nice compromise.


If you add bass traps and clean up some of the bass issues that way, ARC will have less to do down there and so you may able to push it up higher at the high frequency end.

--Bob


----------



## bdrozda




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16700483
> 
> 
> The crossovers and cutoffs are fine. Nothing to worry about there. In particular don't worry about losing the higher LFE frequencies due to the low sub crossover setting as ARC handles those specially.
> 
> 
> As Jayray has suggested, you too should experiment with a higher value for the Max EQ Frequency target. See the explanation in my post just above.
> 
> 
> Judging the curves by eyeball, I think you will likely be able to push that all the way up to 20KHz and still get good results.
> 
> 
> High frequencies are directional so you are losing some highs in the surrounds due to placement -- having to bounce that stuff off the walls. Changing to the dipole setting won't change what ARC Measures or how the resulting Calculated curves look, but I think ARC ought to able to get you to within about 3dB of the target curve up there, and that's outstanding given your placement constraints for those speakers.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> By the way, what did you mean about "the wrong mic clip"? I don't recall any other post reporting a problem with the mic clip.
> 
> 
> The usual problem with the mic clip is that you are trying to push the mic into the wrong end of the clip. The clip has a bit of a taper to it and so you need to flip it so the other end is up and push the mic in that big end.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


The mic clip I got was V shaped and only fits on the bottom post (snap on , no screw threads). It looks like it was intended to only hold the usb cable taught to the pole and the mic falls out no matter which end you slip it through. I was expecting something that the mic fits snuggly in, screws into the top pole and can be angled straight up (like the Velodyne DD series clip). I tried to use the Velodyne clip, but the threads were too small. My problem may be attributed to buying the National Sales manager's demo unit from my dealer and he may not have repacked all of the parts. Called Nick and he is mailing me one today.


Previous post about wrong mic clip:

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsnodgrass 5/18/08

I finally got my ARC-1 today and the diameter of the microphone is actually too small for the clip on the stand! It just falls out, I can rest it pointing horizontally but that seems broken to me. I thought this was to face directly up!? Am I just missing something entirely!?


The mic clip on the stand is slightly wider at one end -- the difference is subtle. Point the wide end of the clip straight up. Slide the mic into the clip so that the body of the mic is centered within the clip. It should be a firm friction fit.


If you mic still falls out then somebody screwed up and included the wrong mic clip with your stand. Contact Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16700557
> 
> 
> ARC actually Uploads two different sorts of things...........



Thanks Bob. As usual, a complete, highly detailed response. I really think Anthem should being giving you some perks or put you on the payroll as I'm sure you take a huge load off their CS dept as well as being an outstanding ambassador for Anthem products.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16700677
> 
> 
> It looks like you've got a pretty significant room cancellation dip around 70Hz. Among other things that is causing ARC to treat LF/RF as less than "full range" despite their significant extension into the bass. Some bass traps on the walls/corners might be called for so you can utilize a bit more of the range your fronts are capable of. It also appears to have knocked down the higher frequencies in you sub. ARC has corrected for all of this, but if you deal with the underlying room issue, ARC can likely come up with an even cleaner solution for you.



Thanks Bob again for your excellent suggestions. ARC is living up to what I was hoping for in not only providing room correction but also insight into what I might do to improve my room.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bdrozda* /forum/post/16701255
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got my ARC-1 today and the diameter of the microphone is actually too small for the clip on the stand! It just falls out, I can rest it pointing horizontally but that seems broken to me. I thought this was to face directly up!? Am I just missing something entirely!?
> 
> 
> The mic clip on the stand is slightly wider at one end -- the difference is subtle. Point the wide end of the clip straight up. Slide the mic into the clip so that the body of the mic is centered within the clip. It should be a firm friction fit.




Try wrapping it a bunch of times with some electrical tape until you get the new clip.... to make it fatter for the time being, electrical tape will not be a permanant mess.... worth a try I think if you can get it to work...


----------



## benleeys

Hi Bob,

Am trying to define an apparent problem between HDMI 1/2 and HDMI 3/4 inputs in with my D2.


I connected a HD player using HDMI 3 or 4, but keep having dropouts every so often lasting a couple of seconds for both sound and images. Switch the same cable to either HDMI 1 or 2, and everything is fine. Both situations using the same Source Setup. HD player set to output 1080p for D2 to downscale to 720p output.


No problem encountered when using a SD player set to output 480i.


Am I missing something obvious?

Ben


----------



## tomdac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16700368
> 
> 
> Basically you are in good shape. Your speakers could use some help in the high frequencies so I suggest you try raising Max EQ Frequency target to tell ARC it is OK to apply correction up there. Open up your results file in Advanced mode, bring up the Targets window, change the Max EQ Frequency target value for Movies and Music (the default setting is 5KHz), accept those changes, and re-Calculate. If you like how the new, green Calculated curves look, do an Upload and give it a listen. No need to re-Measure to do this.
> 
> 
> Start by pushing it all the way up the the 20KHz top limit and see how the curves look. What you are looking for is new wobbles (residual error) showing up at the lower frequencies due to ARC diverting resources up to the higher frequencies. If you don't seen anything worth worrying about, then stick with 20KHz. Otherwise try again -- backing off Max EQ Frequency Target looking for a nice compromise value that gives you good correction in the high frequencies without introducing too much new error in the low frequencies. Since you don't have to re-Measure, you can run through a whole bunch of trial values in no time at all.
> 
> 
> By the way, your curves are another good example of ARC dealing well with "full range" LF/RF speakers and no subwoofer. You are only down a couple dB at 20Hz from the basic volume level of your solution, so I think your subsonic bass should sound quite wonderful. Enjoy!
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,

thanks for that input. My fronts are MartinLogan Summits, which have a 25Hz and 50 Hz adjustment knobs on the back. Prior to doing the ARC testing, I set these both to 0. The system seems a little bass shy now, so I am going to experiment a little with these controls to see how the ARC will compensate if I crank both of them up, which will essentially send more information to the woofer portion of each speaker. Will post my results.


Tom.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/16703824
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> Am trying to define an apparent problem between HDMI 1/2 and HDMI 3/4 inputs in with my D2.
> 
> 
> I connected a HD player using HDMI 3 or 4, but keep having dropouts every so often lasting a couple of seconds for both sound and images. Switch the same cable to either HDMI 1 or 2, and everything is fine. Both situations using the same Source Setup. HD player set to output 1080p for D2 to downscale to 720p output.
> 
> 
> No problem encountered when using a SD player set to output 480i.
> 
> 
> Am I missing something obvious?
> 
> Ben



The two pairs of HDMI inputs operate through different HDMI chips I believe, so you may, just possibly, have a hardware problem. I suggest you give Anthem tech support a call. They may ask you to go through some steps such as re-installing the firmware or doing a Reload Factory Defaults followed by the bare minimum of settings changes to access those two HDMI inputs to eliminate the chance that you have a corrupted firmware install or a corrupted set of video board settings.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bdrozda* /forum/post/16701255
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> 
> The mic clip I got was V shaped and only fits on the bottom post (snap on , no screw threads). It looks like it was intended to only hold the usb cable taught to the pole and the mic falls out no matter which end you slip it through. I was expecting something that the mic fits snuggly in, screws into the top pole and can be angled straight up (like the Velodyne DD series clip). I tried to use the Velodyne clip, but the threads were too small. My problem may be attributed to buying the National Sales manager's demo unit from my dealer and he may not have repacked all of the parts. Called Nick and he is mailing me one today.



Yeah, it sounds like that's just what happened. The correct mic clip screws on to the upper end of the pole (or a separate boom arm that you might get).

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16706169
> 
> 
> The two pairs of HDMI inputs operate through different HDMI chips I believe, so you may, just possibly, have a hardware problem. I suggest you give Anthem tech support a call. They may ask you to go through some steps such as re-installing the firmware or doing a Reload Factory Defaults followed by the bare minimum of settings changes to access those two HDMI inputs to eliminate the chance that you have a corrupted firmware install or a corrupted set of video board settings.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. I knew you would not fail me, but this is exactly what I secretly feared - a possible hardware/firmware problem. I shall email Nick.

Ben


----------



## muad'dib

I have measurements from ARC 2.03.


With this new version, should I remeasure, or is it still fine to import into this new version? If so (have to re-measure), Why??


Thanks..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16709468
> 
> 
> I have measurements from ARC 2.03.
> 
> 
> With this new version, should I remeasure, or is it still fine to import into this new version? If so (have to re-measure), Why??
> 
> 
> Thanks..



Based on the changes that have been reported there's no need to re-Measure. Just re-Calculate and Upload.


Personally, I'd re-Measure "just in case".

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob,

I did a new set of measurements and gained a little more in the HF area. I just changed the Max Eq. Freq. from 5000 to 20000 and the Room gain from 3.945749 to 5.000. I could not help my sorrounds too much because they are on the wall close to the cieling. I also could not help the sub dip between 50 & 80 Hz but since my fronts have woofer and are capable of producing base down to 40 hz I think I should be fine there. Would you kindly review and let me know if I am still missing a lot from low to high freq.

I countered a new problem last night while watching a DVD. The d2v is set up for 1080p/24p which is good for BD. But watching a DVD was giving me zigzag movements. When I converted the signal to 24p in the player then it was all good again. I have setup the d2v to Y4:4:4 and still have the old version 2.04 that came with the unit. Is there some adjustments I can make to watch regular DVD with 1080p/24p from d2v? thanks a lot.

 

A.doc 131k . file

 

B.doc 132k . file

 

C.doc 146.5k . file


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16712762
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> I did a new set of measurements and gained a little more in the HF area. I just changed the Max Eq. Freq. from 5000 to 20000 and the Room gain from 3.945749 to 5.000. I could not help my sorrounds too much because they are on the wall close to the cieling. I also could not help the sub dip between 50 & 80 Hz but since my fronts have woofer and are capable of producing base down to 40 hz I think I should be fine there. Would you kindly review and let me know if I am still missing a lot from low to high freq.
> 
> I countered a new problem last night while watching a DVD. The d2v is set up for 1080p/24p which is good for BD. But watching a DVD was giving me zigzag movements. When I converted the signal to 24p in the player then it was all good again. I have setup the d2v to Y4:4:4 and still have the old version 2.04 that came with the unit. Is there some adjustments I can make to watch regular DVD with 1080p/24p from d2v? thanks a lot.



Not Bob,


I think you should be happy with a room gain of 3.9, in my case I only have 1.5. With 5.0 gain your front speaker cannot achieve the optimum response because the room gain is set too high for ARC to compensate. Your HF are much better though.


You have a nasty dip at 63 hertz with your sub. Try moving the sub a few inches to see if it smoothen the response (within +/-6dB).


I believe regular DVD's are authored at 60fps and playing them with the D2v at any other rate will introduce motion judder therefore use 60fps (via shortcut) whenever you play DVD's


----------



## abc999

Anybody having popping issues with their AVM50v PS3 combo? Firmware are 2.07 and 2.76 respectively. When there is a change in audio format at the beginning of the disc as when as when I eject the disc, several moderately loud pops are heard. I believe I did not experience this with my previous D2.

Downgraded to the AVM50v so that I can buy the LTX500 and with proper Greyscale, gamma and CMS calibration. PQ is at the top of the heap.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16706169
> 
> 
> The two pairs of HDMI inputs operate through different HDMI chips I believe, so you may, just possibly, have a hardware problem. I suggest you give Anthem tech support a call. They may ask you to go through some steps such as re-installing the firmware or doing a Reload Factory Defaults followed by the bare minimum of settings changes to access those two HDMI inputs to eliminate the chance that you have a corrupted firmware install or a corrupted set of video board settings.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Further to my earlier acknowledgement of your response, I got in touch with Nick/Piero. They were most helpful and after further suggested tests, concluded my video card needs to be replaced and are arranging it thru my local (Singapore) distributor. All within 48 hours.


I'd like to add here to the chorus of praise for Anthem's responsiveness to problems and surpport for its products. Can't ask for any better.


Thanks for your help.

Ben


----------



## Johnsteph10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/16715102
> 
> 
> Anybody having popping issues with their AVM50v PS3 combo? Firmware are 2.07 and 2.76 respectively. When there is a change in audio format at the beginning of the disc as when as when I eject the disc, several moderately loud pops are heard. I believe I did not experience this with my previous D2.
> 
> Downgraded to the AVM50v so that I can buy the LTX500 and with proper Greyscale, gamma and CMS calibration. PQ is at the top of the heap.



The PS3 is notorious for causing these pops across several different brands, not just the Anthem.


It has been an issue for a good while now and can be very annoying. I haven't heard of any reports of damage, however.


----------



## mludviksen

I've been getting no sound at all sometimes when viewing my DirecTV source via HDMI (HR22). If I re-boot the D2V or switch the sources back and forth a bit, the sound will then start working. I haven't noticed any pops yet... Has anybody else had issues like that?


I'm currently running v2.06 firmware.



Thanks,



Mark


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/16716945
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Further to my earlier acknowledgement of your response, I got in touch with Nick/Piero. They were most helpful and after further suggested tests, concluded my video card needs to be replaced and are arranging it thru my local (Singapore) distributor. All within 48 hours.
> 
> 
> I'd like to add here to the chorus of praise for Anthem's responsiveness to problems and surpport for its products. Can't ask for any better.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> Ben



I won't disagree with Johnsteph10 - but I have the D2 - PS3 Combo

and I have never heard a POP from my Combo.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mludviksen* /forum/post/16717565
> 
> 
> I've been getting no sound at all sometimes when viewing my DirecTV source via HDMI (HR22). If I re-boot the D2V or switch the sources back and forth, the sound will then appear. Has anybody else had issues like that?
> 
> 
> I'm currently running v2.06 firmware.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> Mark




Hey Mark, I have had those issues.... Check your HDMI cables insertion, they are sometimes touchy and if you have any strain on them at all see if you can relieve that strain, even a tiny bit of torque or an ofset insertion was the problem. It usually stems from the HDMI out to the Display side. I haven't had any troubles since....


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/16715071
> 
> 
> Not Bob,
> 
> 
> I think you should be happy with a room gain of 3.9, in my case I only have 1.5. With 5.0 gain your front speaker cannot achieve the optimum response because the room gain is set too high for ARC to compensate. Your HF are much better though.
> 
> 
> You have a nasty dip at 63 hertz with your sub. Try moving the sub a few inches to see if it smoothen the response (within +/-6dB).
> 
> 
> I believe regular DVD's are authored at 60fps and playing them with the D2v at any other rate will introduce motion judder therefore use 60fps (via shortcut) whenever you play DVD's



Thanks abc999.

But my speakers are tooo hard to drive. They are 4 ohms with 88db effeciency. They love vollume and power. The more you give them the more they love. With this setup I really hear every bit of the sound but the dialog is a bit soft for my taste.


----------



## usxplong

Hello all. yesterday I upgraded the firmware to 2.07. The proccess went fine but at the end I was getting a meesage like "cannot enter block Unprotected ..". I tried the upgrade a few times and getting the same message at the end. Finally I quit and turned on the d2v. When I checked the status, the front panel showed 2.07. Is there something missing? Did the proccess go OK or the firmware is not completely installed?

What is the sollution? By the way, I had all HDMIs disconnected and the onlything was connected to the d2v was my computer. I appreciate it.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16717836
> 
> 
> I won't disagree with Johnsteph10 - but I have the D2 - PS3 Combo
> 
> and I have never heard a POP from my Combo.



same here


----------



## peechus

I'm having the same thing too. Wiggle the HDMI out,huh?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16719164
> 
> 
> Hello all. yesterday I upgraded the firmware to 2.07. The proccess went fine but at the end I was getting a meesage like "cannot enter block Unprotected ..". I tried the upgrade a few times and getting the same message at the end. Finally I quit and turned on the d2v. When I checked the status, the front panel showed 2.07. Is there something missing? Did the proccess go OK or the firmware is not completely installed?
> 
> What is the sollution? By the way, I had all HDMIs disconnected and the onlything was connected to the d2v was my computer. I appreciate it.



Until you get a message that everything is OK or the install is a success, the upgrade is not complete. You have to communicate with customer support about this. They might give you a flash eraser and give you specific instructions to fix the problem.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16719105
> 
> 
> Thanks abc999.
> 
> But my speakers are tooo hard to drive. They are 4 ohms with 88db effeciency. They love vollume and power. The more you give them the more they love. With this setup I really hear every bit of the sound but the dialog is a bit soft for my taste.



I dont see an relationship between the low efficiency of your speakers and room gain. ARC is all about optimizing frequency response in your room. A RG of 3.9 already boost 3.9 dB at 100 hertz compared to your mids. A forced RG of 5 might explain why your dialog are soft sounding.


----------



## wilsonrob

This may have been addressed somewhere in the 749 pages but I am lazy. I have just installed a 50V software version 2.07.

I have connected my Atlanta Scientific 8300HD to the processor using component and output from the AVM to my BENQ 20000 is via HDMI. I also have a Panasonic Blu Ray player connected to teh AVM via HDMI.


No problem with the video from the Blu Ray player.


However, if I connect the cable box directly to the projector I have a virtually perfect picture (OK you never get a perfect picture from a cable box). If I connect it through teh AVM the picture is overcooked. By this I mean that it looks like the gamma curve is screwed up severely with crushed whites and contour distortion through the color bands.


I have tried a number of different adjustmenat to teh video adjustments available from pressing the 7 key. This has helped to improve the situation but the picture is pretty well unacceptable (pretty bad when the projector alone has no problem). At a guess I would think that teh gain is too high. I adjusted gain to 22 from teh "auto" that it was at originally .


Any suggestions?


----------



## mikefl52

The back logs on the D2Vs must be reducing since they are now starting to offer upgrades (actually its a replacement program) for the D1s. I received an email from Piero at Anthem offering an exchage the first week in August.


I have to say that the cost they are requesting is pretty high, or at least much higher than I thought is was going to be. Also the difference in price between currently having Arc and not is less than half what I paid for Arc.


I currently use a DVDO VP50 for all my HDMI and 5.1 analog for my bluray connection so I am going to have to give it some very careful thought before I plonk down the money they are asking. The other thing is that my system works very well with no cracks, pops, etc. or HDMI handshake issues with any of my components including my mac mini, so maybe I will give it a little while to pull the trigger.


I am not sure I can actually mention specific prices so I haven't.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As far as AVS is concerned, it's OK to post "list prices" or MSRP -- even for upgrades.


There are no details on the Anthem web site yet, although I notice they have removed the page that used to describe the original D1 -> D2 upgrade program.

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52

For a D1-D2v


$4699 if you already have ARC

$4899 if you do not have ARC


The email does not say if this is $US or $CDN (I assume that it is $US), but at the moment that does not make any difference.


Note that this is not an upgrade it is an exchange of D1 for D2v. The rebuild for a D1 may be so extensive that they do not consider it worthwhile doing an upgrade where they replace the boards.


As I mentioned it is more expensive than I thought it would be, there again I thought it would be an ugrade program rather than a completely new unit. I would have thought they would have provided a full credit for already having ARC (not just $200) since I already have a mike and they would just need to provide the software with the new unit and mike association.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wilsonrob* /forum/post/16721672
> 
> 
> This may have been addressed somewhere in the 749 pages but I am lazy. I have just installed a 50V software version 2.07.
> 
> I have connected my Atlanta Scientific 8300HD to the processor using component and output from the AVM to my BENQ 20000 is via HDMI. I also have a Panasonic Blu Ray player connected to teh AVM via HDMI.
> 
> 
> No problem with the video from the Blu Ray player.
> 
> 
> However, if I connect the cable box directly to the projector I have a virtually perfect picture (OK you never get a perfect picture from a cable box). If I connect it through teh AVM the picture is overcooked. By this I mean that it looks like the gamma curve is screwed up severely with crushed whites and contour distortion through the color bands.
> 
> 
> I have tried a number of different adjustmenat to teh video adjustments available from pressing the 7 key. This has helped to improve the situation but the picture is pretty well unacceptable (pretty bad when the projector alone has no problem). At a guess I would think that teh gain is too high. I adjusted gain to 22 from teh "auto" that it was at originally .
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?



Give Anthem tech support a call. This sounds like you have a hardware problem with your Component input. They may ask you to try a few diagnosing steps such as using an alternate input or re-installing the V2.07 firmware.


The SA 8300's HDMI output has real problems, but I can't recall any problems reported with its component output, and if you are getting good component video when directly connected to your TV that rules out something screwed up in the particular channels you are watching or the component outputs of the 8300 itself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16724596
> 
> 
> For a D1-D2v
> 
> 
> $4699 if you already have ARC
> 
> $4899 if you do not have ARC
> 
> 
> The email does not say if this is $US or $CDN (I assume that it is $US), but at the moment that does not make any difference.
> 
> 
> Note that this is not an upgrade it is an exchange of D1 for D2v. The rebuild for a D1 may be so extensive that they do not consider it worthwhile doing an upgrade where they replace the boards.
> 
> 
> As I mentioned it is more expensive than I thought it would be, there again I thought it would be an ugrade program rather than a completely new unit. I would have thought they would have provided a full credit for already having ARC (not just $200) since I already have a mike and they would just need to provide the software with the new unit and mike association.



Was warranty mentioned? Since you get a new unit, I suspect you get a new unit warranty on the entire unit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16719164
> 
> 
> Hello all. yesterday I upgraded the firmware to 2.07. The proccess went fine but at the end I was getting a meesage like "cannot enter block Unprotected ..". I tried the upgrade a few times and getting the same message at the end. Finally I quit and turned on the d2v. When I checked the status, the front panel showed 2.07. Is there something missing? Did the proccess go OK or the firmware is not completely installed?
> 
> What is the sollution? By the way, I had all HDMIs disconnected and the onlything was connected to the d2v was my computer. I appreciate it.



Call Anthem tech support and let them walk you through this. That's not an error message I'm familiar with.


Download a fresh copy of the V2.07 installer, "just in case".


Remember that in addition to the HDMI thing, you also have to do a Reload Factory Defaults before doing the firmware install.


Make sure you have no other programs running on your computer during the install. Also make sure your computer doesn't go to sleep or into screen saver during the install -- move the mouse periodically if you have to to keep the computer awake.

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16724649
> 
> 
> Was warranty mentioned? Since you get a new unit, I suspect you get a new unit warranty on the entire unit.
> 
> --Bob



No it wasn't but since it is a new unit I have to assume it will be a full warranty. That is something I can ask them.


It would also be interesting to see if this was also the route that they intend to go with for the D2 "upgrades" to D2Vs.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16724701
> 
> 
> Call Anthem tech support and let them walk you through this. That's not an error message I'm familiar with.
> 
> 
> Download a fresh copy of the V2.07 installer, "just in case".
> 
> 
> Remember that in addition to the HDMI thing, you also have to do a Reload Factory Defaults before doing the firmware install.
> 
> 
> Make sure you have no other programs running on your computer during the install. Also make sure your computer doesn't go to sleep or into screen saver during the install -- move the mouse periodically if you have to to keep the computer awake.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob and abc999.

I contacted Anthem yesterday and the tech support told me if I don't have any problem then it is good to go. Otherwise I should try a different computer. I don't know if it is the computer. I think they should walk me thru this. And yes I did upload the factory defaul but still the same message.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16724596
> 
> 
> For a D1-D2v
> 
> 
> $4699 if you already have ARC
> 
> $4899 if you do not have ARC
> 
> 
> The email does not say if this is $US or $CDN (I assume that it is $US), but at the moment that does not make any difference.
> 
> 
> Note that this is not an upgrade it is an exchange of D1 for D2v. The rebuild for a D1 may be so extensive that they do not consider it worthwhile doing an upgrade where they replace the boards.
> 
> 
> As I mentioned it is more expensive than I thought it would be, there again I thought it would be an ugrade program rather than a completely new unit. I would have thought they would have provided a full credit for already having ARC (not just $200) since I already have a mike and they would just need to provide the software with the new unit and mike association.



I'd say a lot depends on whether you are buying this through a dealer where you might get a discount or not.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16724596
> 
> 
> For a D1-D2v
> 
> 
> $4699 if you already have ARC
> 
> $4899 if you do not have ARC
> 
> 
> The email does not say if this is $US or $CDN (I assume that it is $US), but at the moment that does not make any difference.
> 
> 
> Note that this is not an upgrade it is an exchange of D1 for D2v. The rebuild for a D1 may be so extensive that they do not consider it worthwhile doing an upgrade where they replace the boards.
> 
> 
> As I mentioned it is more expensive than I thought it would be, there again I thought it would be an ugrade program rather than a completely new unit. I would have thought they would have provided a full credit for already having ARC (not just $200) since I already have a mike and they would just need to provide the software with the new unit and mike association.



You can buy new, from a dealer, for (very) little more. Then you still have a D1 to re-locate elsewhere in your home, or sell.


That's not even close to a great deal.


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16725547
> 
> 
> You can buy new, from a dealer, for (very) little more. Then you still have a D1 to re-locate elsewhere in your home, or sell.
> 
> 
> That's not even close to a great deal.



a D2v for a little more than 5k?


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *osofast240sx* /forum/post/16725668
> 
> 
> a D2v for a little more than 5k?



Exactly


----------



## AltaHomeTheatre

I am going to build a DIY subwoofer (Maelstrom-X with 2 passive radiators) and am a little confused about subsonic filters. The DIYers typically stress that some sort of subsonic filter is required (ie SMS-1). Bob tells everyone (including myself when I was first setting up ARC with my Paradigm subs) to turn subsonic filter off and let ARC handle it.


I just want to confirm that this is still true with a DIY sub that is powered by a pro amp (Behringer EP2500). I dont know if the advice changes for DIY versus commercially available sub. The difference being that a commercially available sub may have some sort of built in protection.


Thanks for any direction you could give me.

Darryl


----------



## video_bit_bucket

So this is 2,800 credit for the D1 based on my math. I had hoped for a little better myself. Makes selling the D1 and buying a used D2 look like something to consider.


Guess it would not hurt to wait for an official Anthem announcement. Must admit a little confused as to why the first pricing on upgrades we hear is for the D1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16724596
> 
> 
> For a D1-D2v
> 
> 
> $4699 if you already have ARC
> 
> $4899 if you do not have ARC
> 
> 
> The email does not say if this is $US or $CDN (I assume that it is $US), but at the moment that does not make any difference.
> 
> 
> Note that this is not an upgrade it is an exchange of D1 for D2v. The rebuild for a D1 may be so extensive that they do not consider it worthwhile doing an upgrade where they replace the boards.
> 
> 
> As I mentioned it is more expensive than I thought it would be, there again I thought it would be an ugrade program rather than a completely new unit. I would have thought they would have provided a full credit for already having ARC (not just $200) since I already have a mike and they would just need to provide the software with the new unit and mike association.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/16726522
> 
> 
> Exactly



Exactly


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/16728976
> 
> 
> Guess it would not hurt to wait for an official Anthem announcement. Must admit a little confused as to why the first pricing on upgrades we hear is for the D1



I'm guessing it is because it is a swap out where as the D2 will be a modification which is more labor intensive. I'll hold judgment until pricing is announced for the D2 but I'm beginning to think it will be out of my comfort zone. In which case I will just wait for a new platform i.e. a D3.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16729519
> 
> 
> I'm guessing it is because it is a swap out where as the D2 will be a modification which is more labor intensive. I'll hold judgment until pricing is announced for the D2 but I'm beginning to think it will be out of my comfort zone. In which case I will just wait for a new platform i.e. a D3.



I think this is exactly right. It is not an upgrade, but rather a $2800 loyalty bonus for buying a new one. You do have to send the D1 back though to get it for this price.


I will be interested to see what price the D2 upgrades, if they do offer an upgrade, come in at.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Anthem took down the upgrade link. Is my memory correct that the D1 to D1HD was about 2,500? If so that means that the D1 to D2v is a about double the cost. If that is the case it really puts a big question on the D2 to D2v pricing since speculation is that most all the parts needed for the D1 to D1HD will have to be replaced in the D2 to D2v upgrade.


Guess I should stop speculating; have been waiting a long time to move up to an internal video processor. I was Ok waiting until this info. Now it feels like I scratched the itch just a little.






> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16729782
> 
> 
> I think this is exactly right. It is not an upgrade, but rather a $2800 loyalty bonus for buying a new one. You do have to send the D1 back though to get it for this price.
> 
> 
> I will be interested to see what price the D2 upgrades, if they do offer an upgrade, come in at.


----------



## slots1

Sorry guys

But this is latest news from Piero.

It is not an upgrade to go from a D2 to a D2v. It is also a replacement. You will get a brand new D2v with a new three year warantee.

The price is $3899 with a ARC and $4299 without one. Yes, you pay the lower price if you own the ARC. I do not know if this includes shipping. You will have to return your D2. Also, when this is done is their any custom charges?

It looks like they are selling for about 50% off list price. I do not know if this is the dealer mark up.

Also, if you could get it from your dealer at a better price.

The only good news is that it is a new unit with new warantee. In hind site they probably should have called it a D3. I think they were hoping they would do an upgrade, and it was too labor and part intensive.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/16730118
> 
> 
> The price is $3899 with a ARC and $4299 without one.



Do you have this reversed or do you mean you surrender your existing ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Presumably the lower price applies if you already have an ARC license. I imagine they will not include a new ARC kit in the D2v box but will just provide the necessary pair of licensing/calibration files to use your existing ARC mic with the new D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AltaHomeTheatre* /forum/post/16727912
> 
> 
> I am going to build a DIY subwoofer (Maelstrom-X with 2 passive radiators) and am a little confused about subsonic filters. The DIYers typically stress that some sort of subsonic filter is required (ie SMS-1). Bob tells everyone (including myself when I was first setting up ARC with my Paradigm subs) to turn subsonic filter off and let ARC handle it.
> 
> 
> I just want to confirm that this is still true with a DIY sub that is powered by a pro amp (Behringer EP2500). I dont know if the advice changes for DIY versus commercially available sub. The difference being that a commercially available sub may have some sort of built in protection.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any direction you could give me.
> 
> Darryl



Actually what I recommend is not disabling the subsonic filter (if your subwoofer needs it) but rather setting it to the lowest setting that your subwoofer and sub amp are designed for.


For THX Ultra2 subs (subs designed to go very deep), I suspect you don't really need a subsonic filter at all.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Bob

I believe that is correct. You will just get the new ARC loaded with presumely your license for your mike. And of course the lower price (lower!!) is if you have ARC already on your D2.

Bob, you probably did the right thing getting a new D2v instead of waiting.

Gerry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16725375
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob and abc999.
> 
> I contacted Anthem yesterday and the tech support told me if I don't have any problem then it is good to go. Otherwise I should try a different computer. I don't know if it is the computer. I think they should walk me thru this. And yes I did upload the factory defaul but still the same message.



I'm not familiar with this error message.


What is the precise text of the error message? Is it being displayed by the installer itself or is it a separate alert message that Windows is putting up? At what point in the install does this come up based on the progress messages the installer puts up during the install?

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16730859
> 
> 
> I'm not familiar with this error message.
> 
> 
> What is the precise text of the error message? Is it being displayed by the installer itself or is it a separate alert message that Windows is putting up? At what point in the install does this come up based on the progress messages the installer puts up during the install?
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob. I tried the upgrade with a different computer WinXP, Serial Port (not USB) and went thru all the procedures but still getting the same error. The installer goes thru Flash verifying, Core 0 and Core 1 then says "OKI FLASH will not enter block un-protected state". Now I cannot get my video proccessing manu when I press the "On Screen" button on the remote. The front panel says "See OSD" but nothing comes on the screen. Is there a way I can fix these or may be I reload the previous firmware? I do not have the previous firmware which was 2.04 or 2.06. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16730997
> 
> 
> Hello Bob. I tried the upgrade with a different computer WinXP, Serial Port (not USB) and went thru all the procedures but still getting the same error. The installer goes thru Flash verifying, Core 0 and Core 1 then says "OKI FLASH will not enter block un-protected state". Now I cannot get my video proccessing manu when I press the "On Screen" button on the remote. The front panel says "See OSD" but nothing comes on the screen. Is there a way I can fix these or may be I reload the previous firmware? I do not have the previous firmware which was 2.04 or 2.06. Thanks.



You will likely need to use the Flash Eraser utility which is found on Anthem's password protected download page. Flash Eraser is a Windows program that forces all the programmable parts in the Anthem into a fresh state to receive a new firmware install.


If you don't already have access to the password protected download page, give Anthem tech support a call on Monday morning and they'll get you what you need.


If you haven't already done so, make sure you download a fresh copy of the V2.07 installer just in case your original copy of it was corrupted.


A failed install can sometimes leave the Anthem in a state where it can not accept a new install, and if that's what's happened to you, then the Flash Eraser should sort things out for you. Note that if this is what has happened, trying an old firmware install won't help.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16731062
> 
> 
> You will likely need to use the Flash Eraser utility which is found on Anthem's password protected download page. Flash Eraser is a Windows program that forces all the programmable parts in the Anthem into a fresh state to receive a new firmware install.
> 
> 
> If you don't already have access to the password protected download page, give Anthem tech support a call on Monday morning and they'll get you what you need.
> 
> 
> If you haven't already done so, make sure you download a fresh copy of the V2.07 installer just in case your original copy of it was corrupted.
> 
> 
> A failed install can sometimes leave the Anthem in a state where it can not accept a new install, and if that's what's happened to you, then the Flash Eraser should sort things out for you. Note that if this is what has happened, trying an old firmware install won't help.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Is there a way you can email me the flash eraser since I don't have the password and hard to wait till Monday without adjusting my video. I really appreciate it.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/16730118
> 
> 
> Sorry guys
> 
> But this is latest news from Piero.
> 
> It is not an upgrade to go from a D2 to a D2v. It is also a replacement. You will get a brand new D2v with a new three year warantee.
> 
> The price is $3899 with a ARC and $4299 without one. Yes, you pay the lower price if you own the ARC. I do not know if this includes shipping. You will have to return your D2. Also, when this is done is their any custom charges?
> 
> It looks like they are selling for about 50% off list price. I do not know if this is the dealer mark up.
> 
> Also, if you could get it from your dealer at a better price.
> 
> The only good news is that it is a new unit with new warantee. In hind site they probably should have called it a D3. I think they were hoping they would do an upgrade, and it was too labor and part intensive.



Extremely disappointing news. It is not approximately 50% off list, it is 50% off list minus the residual value of your D2 since you have to send it back. I don't know why Anthem bothers to offer the upgrade other then the fact that they can say they did it. You would be better off with a decent dealer discount and a private sale or trade-in of the D2. I don't want to sound bitter but I was hoping for something like a $2K update for ARC owners, in hindsight I guess that was pretty unrealistic. Personally I don't think of the D2v as a D3 in my mind a "D3" is a totally new platform. Oh well hopefully Anthem will give me a good discount on the D3 when it appears.


I once took advantage of a video processor upgrade from another company where they left me keep my existing unit as long as I agreed that the old unit was no longer supported. Wonder what Anthem does with the old D1's and D2's they get in?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/16730118
> 
> 
> Sorry guys
> 
> But this is latest news from Piero.
> 
> It is not an upgrade to go from a D2 to a D2v. It is also a replacement. You will get a brand new D2v with a new three year warantee.
> 
> The price is $3899 with a ARC and $4299 without one. Yes, you pay the lower price if you own the ARC. I do not know if this includes shipping. You will have to return your D2. Also, when this is done is their any custom charges?
> 
> It looks like they are selling for about 50% off list price. I do not know if this is the dealer mark up.
> 
> Also, if you could get it from your dealer at a better price.
> 
> The only good news is that it is a new unit with new warantee. In hind site they probably should have called it a D3. I think they were hoping they would do an upgrade, and it was too labor and part intensive.



Ouch. $3900 to get a newer VP chip and some more HDMI ports.


If I had a job right now I might be able to convince myself this is a good deal...


----------



## sctonn

Got it home and set it up. f/w V2.07. Ran through the ARC process, and wow, really nice sound.. Still working through some set ups, but man what a difference sonically. Not quite sure what goes into the algorithim for determining the "calculated" curves, but can't really complain about the sound at this point.


----------



## AltaHomeTheatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16730851
> 
> 
> Actually what I recommend is not disabling the subsonic filter (if your subwoofer needs it) but rather setting it to the lowest setting that your subwoofer and sub amp are designed for.
> 
> 
> For THX Ultra2 subs (subs designed to go very deep), I suspect you don't really need a subsonic filter at all.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, Thanks for clearing that up, sorry for the misquote. I believe that I will require a subsonic filter.


Thanks

Darryl


----------



## [email protected]

Bob P,


I currently have an AVM50 and recently changed out my Denon 2900 DvD player with the OPPO BDP-83. Since then, I have noticed that when I play a DVD or Blu-Ray the AVM50 no longer engages the surround mode that I originally setup in the surround mode presets. Now I have to manually input the surround mode. What shows up on the AVM50 after the movie begins is just 5.1. rather than Pro Logic llx Movie or THX Ultra2. Do I have something set incorrectly in either the AVM50 or OPPO? Thanks for your help.


German:


----------



## obie_fl

German I assume you were bitstreaming with the Denon and are now outputing PCM from the Oppo. You need to go in to Mode Presets and make sure 6.0 is set to Pro Logic llx Movie or THX Ultra2.


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/16732533
> 
> 
> Ouch. $3900 to get a newer VP chip and some more HDMI ports.
> 
> 
> If I had a job right now I might be able to convince myself this is a good deal...



I'm with ya Gordon


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/16732533
> 
> 
> Ouch. $3900 to get a newer VP chip and some more HDMI ports.
> 
> 
> If I had a job right now I might be able to convince myself this is a good deal...



Is there going to be a time limit on this offer? If you wanted to wait till next year to upgrade could you?


----------



## cragger

I am wondering if the same upgrade will apply for the avm30 to be upgraded to the avm50v.It probably have to be traded in do it being more "cost effective".


Ran


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/16737585
> 
> 
> Why would that be unreasonable?
> 
> There's no way that this "upgrade" is worth anything near that price.
> 
> In fact calling it an upgrade is a joke.
> 
> 4 grand for an upgrade?, sounds like Anthem hired some ex-Theta employees.
> 
> At least with Theta you got new DACs.
> 
> I'm guessing there won't be a long wait for upgrades.
> 
> Who in their right mind is going to drop that kind of coin.
> 
> Even I didn't think it would be this expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> I hear the D3 will be upgradeable



I thought you did get new DAC's. Didn't think the existing ones would have the power to handle the dobly volume feature in addition to ARC. I thought this "upgrade" included new video board, DAC's and the aditional HDMI ins and out's. There was talk of a new front panel but with a trade of course we have all the new logo's on the front panel.


----------



## [email protected]




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16733918
> 
> 
> German I assume you were bitstreaming with the Denon and are now outputing PCM from the Oppo. You need to go in to Mode Presets and make sure 6.0 is set to Pro Logic llx Movie or THX Ultra2.



Thanks for your help. This fix worked.


German


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AltaHomeTheatre* /forum/post/16732787
> 
> 
> Bob, Thanks for clearing that up, sorry for the misquote. I believe that I will require a subsonic filter.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Darryl




AltaHome.... I have 3 Mal-X's sealed, and my situation is a bit different then yours - I need the SMS to boost the lows to get flat down low otherwise it just rolls off a touch too early, you on the other hand will set your tuning with weights on the PR's, and ARC should be finding the knee of your tuning point and start the roll off right below that, which will control the LF response from taking your driver out of control.... I ended up turning off my highpass in my SMS altogether - at least set it as low as possible 4-5hz. I don't have any issues with my subs running out of control pushing double the amp power you will require with PR's, and I like to run things pretty hot.... I'm showing with REW some major output down low into the single digits.


If it was me, I would start off without a HighPass filter first and just be gentle and easy keeping an eye on the volume control until you feel confident there... I have faith in ARC that it will provide the rolloff below your tuning point and you shouldn't have any problems.... You can easily adjust the .1 channel up or down a few notches (db's) as you are feeling it out.. What size room are you in.... That should be a very very impressive sub with exceptionally clean and massive output with the PR's... !!!


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/16738243
> 
> 
> I thought you did get new DAC's. Didn't think the existing ones would have the power to handle the dobly volume feature in addition to ARC. I thought this "upgrade" included new video board, DAC's and the aditional HDMI ins and out's. There was talk of a new front panel but with a trade of course we have all the new logo's on the front panel.



I believe you have DACs confused with audio processors.


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/16737585
> 
> 
> I hear the D3 will be upgradeable



One of the reasons I spent the money for the D2 two years ago was to be "protected" by Anthem's history of offering reasonably priced upgrades to keep their equipment current. I am extremely disappointed by this news as it definitely does not meet that criteria.


Oh well, live and learn.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/16739282
> 
> 
> One of the reasons I spent the money for the D2 two years ago was to be "protected" by Anthem's history of offering reasonably priced upgrades to keep their equipment current. I am extremely disappointed by this news as it definitely does not meet that criteria.
> 
> 
> Oh well, live and learn.



Believe me - I'm NOT Anti-Upgrade but I'm very Happy

with my D2 and even if the upgrade was only $1,000, I

doubt I would do it.


----------



## rmarcoot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16739442
> 
> 
> Believe me - I'm NOT Anti-Upgrade but I'm very Happy
> 
> with my D2 and even if the upgrade was only $1,000, I
> 
> doubt I would do it.



I'm also extremely happy with my D2 (except that it is currently in for repair







) but I would have paid a reasonable price for the upgrade. As it is, I will pass and continue to enjoy the excellent performance of the D2.


----------



## lk100

I have a question reguarding subwoofer placement and room acoustics. I have a rectangular rm approx 13x18x8.5. Subwoofer is a Paradigm studio 12, placed in front of LF speaker about 10" from side wall, facing directly towards rear of the room. I have a row of 4 seats about 14' from front wall. If I sit near the side walls the sub response is distinct and that low punch is felt. If I sit in the so-called sweet spot in the center, the low felt sub responce seems to disappear. I always thought that the low end from a sub was not directional and should be even throughout the listening area. This seems to be something beyond the control of ARC. Is this why some use more than one sub?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100* /forum/post/16740185
> 
> 
> I have a question reguarding subwoofer placement and room acoustics. I have a rectangular rm approx 13x18x8.5. Subwoofer is a Paradigm studio 12, placed in front of LF speaker about 10" from side wall, facing directly towards rear of the room. I have a row of 4 seats about 14' from front wall. If I sit near the side walls the sub response is distinct and that low punch is felt. If I sit in the so-called sweet spot in the center, the low felt sub responce seems to disappear. I always thought that the low end from a sub was not directional and should be even throughout the listening area. This seems to be something beyond the control of ARC. Is this why some use more than one sub?



There are several possible things going on here. A 12" sub may not be big enough to generate good subsonics for your room, or you may have more room problems than ARC can fully correct, or you may be using ARC improperly.


For example: Double check that you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ set to ON for each of your source definitions in the Anthem.


--------------------------------------


What you are describing sounds like an uncorrected room cancellation null. Such nulls will vary as you shift listening position a few feet. ARC corrects such problems but there are limits to what ARC will try to do (so as not to over-stress the sub or sub amp).


Open up your ARC results file in ARC's "Advanced" mode to view the charts, capture the charts and post them here. The charts may tell the story of what's going on with your bass.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There were a bunch of people who bought D2 units at the beginning of the year that were shipped with a half-price coupon for the upgrade to a D2v -- good when that upgrade finally became available for half off the upgrade price (which was still to be determined).


I wonder how those folks are affected by this apparent move to a "trade-in" policy instead of upgrades?


I also wonder whether this trade-in policy might not be a stop-gap measure to offer something to folks who have been pushing hard for an upgrade NOW but without Anthem having to divert assembly line resources towards implementing a real upgrade (which is a distraction to a factory already hard pressed to keep up with new unit orders). At some point they are going to have to refurb the units traded in, but I suppose they can defer that for quite a while.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/16738243
> 
> 
> I thought you did get new DAC's. Didn't think the existing ones would have the power to handle the dobly volume feature in addition to ARC. I thought this "upgrade" included new video board, DAC's and the aditional HDMI ins and out's. There was talk of a new front panel but with a trade of course we have all the new logo's on the front panel.



The DSPs (digital audio processors) are entirely new. The DACs are the same part numbers as in the old units. That said, the reports we've been getting from folks saying the audio is improved in the new units suggests there's been some improvement in the overall analog audio circuit (the stuff that goes around the DACs on the audio board). If so, we have no details on that yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cragger* /forum/post/16736262
> 
> 
> I am wondering if the same upgrade will apply for the avm30 to be upgraded to the avm50v.It probably have to be traded in do it being more "cost effective".
> 
> 
> Ran



When the D2 and AVM 50 first came out, the upgrade to an AVM 50 wasn't offered for some months after the first upgrade to a D2 became available. So Anthem may not even be offering an AVM 50v path yet. But I presume they'll offer it, at least initially, as a trade-in only path just like the D2v path.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sctonn* /forum/post/16732773
> 
> 
> Got it home and set it up. f/w V2.07. Ran through the ARC process, and wow, really nice sound.. Still working through some set ups, but man what a difference sonically. Not quite sure what goes into the algorithim for determining the "calculated" curves, but can't really complain about the sound at this point.



Welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!


Did your new D2v come with V2.07 factory installed? Also what version of ARC did you find on the install CD? You may have some cookies coming to you.


The red Measured curves in the ARC charts are an unweighted average of what ARC has heard from each of the mic positions. In the course of producing its solution, ARC builds a mathematical model of what the Anthem will do to the audio signal. The green Calculated curves are produced by the simple expedient of running the red Measured curves through that model.


So just as the red Measured curves don't reflect what any single mic position recorded (assuming you don't have an acoustically perfect setup where each mic position hears precisely the same thing), the green Calculated curves also don't reflect the expected result at any single mic position. In addition, the usefulness of the green Calculated curves depends on how well the mathematical model built by the ARC application actually reflects what happens inside the Anthem processor when the real Room Correction parameters are used to process real audio.


But in general there's a high correlation between better looking Calculated curves and people saying their system actually sounds better during normal listening. Just remember that you don't listen to curves, so if you find a setup that sounds better to you then go with that one even if its Calculated curves are not quite as clean as some other setup that doesn't sound that good.


If you'd like, post your ARC charts here and folks will comment on them.

--Bob


----------



## lk100

Thanks Bob, I will upload the charts later today. The charts do show a huge null at the 100-200hz frequencies for which ARC could not fully compensate. It's strange that my previous Sunfire sub, which has a smaller woofer, did not show this null. But I think the Sunfire had the same null at the sweet listening center position as I do not recall hearing the lower sub impact. I could reconnect the Sunfire to and confirm. By the way, this happens when listening to music, so it is not the LFE level, which seems to comes through fine in movies. In music the sub can provide a nice foundation, adding fullness to the sound.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16740389
> 
> 
> There were a bunch of people who bought D2 units at the beginning of the year that were shipped with a half-price coupon for the upgrade to a D2v -- good when that upgrade finally became available for half off the upgrade price (which was still to be determined).
> 
> 
> I wonder how those folks are affected by this apparent move to a "trade-in" policy instead of upgrades?
> 
> 
> I also wonder whether this trade-in policy might not be a stop-gap measure to offer something to folks who have been pushing hard for an upgrade NOW but without Anthem having to divert assembly line resources towards implementing a real upgrade (which is a distraction to a factory already hard pressed to keep up with new unit orders). At some point they are going to have to refurb the units traded in, but I suppose they can defer that for quite a while.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob;


Just wanted to confirm for you (and anyone else out there that's interested) that Anthem will be honoring the half off coupon. I received an email from Nick this morning confirming this. He said as long as the serial number on my D2 matches the number on the coupon and I am the original owner I can take advantage of the upgrade discounted at an additional 50%.


He also said I can do this through my dealer or through Anthem direct.


I still have to confirm the Canadian pricing! It looks like I'll be able to exchange my D2 to a D2v for approximately 2000.00!


At that price... should I even consider passing it up?


----------



## jayray

For people thinking of going to Windows 7 in Oct., I emailed Nick to see if it would be compatible with our firmware and ARC uploads which of course includes a driver for all of us who have a keyspan usb-serial adapter. He said it might not occur until a Service Pack 2 is released. So just a cautionary note if you have a laptop you use for these updates, to perhaps stick with XP or Vista until we're sure of compatiblity.

On a second note, Nick also mentioned that there has just been another DSP software release which they will have to integrate with Dolby Volume in a future firmware release. This is not to be mistaken as a firmware release for us.

John


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob. Thanks for your help on the flash eraser offer. I got the password from Nick today. I will try that later when I get home. But Nick told me he received an email regarding the same issue from someone else too and he passed that to the software department and he is waiting for a response from them. But he also said that this might be some bug to the video card. Then I told him I have problem with getting test tone when I run ARC. He said that is a different issue. But all of this happened after the firmware upgrade. I hope this flash eraser will help me.

Now my question is: After trying the flash eraser will I loose everything or I can still reload my setups from the user saved menu?

Also I found an option of bypassing the LFE for setting up the sub's crossover too low. Do I need to use that with ARC or with ARC on that option is irrelevant?

Thanks as always Bob.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16740955
> 
> 
> Hi Bob;
> 
> 
> Just wanted to confirm for you (and anyone else out there that's interested) that Anthem will be honoring the half off coupon. I received an email from Nick this morning confirming this. He said as long as the serial number on my D2 matches the number on the coupon and I am the original owner I can take advantage of the upgrade discounted at an additional 50%.
> 
> 
> He also said I can do this through my dealer or through Anthem direct.
> 
> 
> I still have to confirm the Canadian pricing! It looks like I'll be able to exchange my D2 to a D2v for approximately 2000.00!
> 
> 
> At that price... should I even consider passing it up?



This is great news for owners.... thanks for posting this ~ohdee~


I bought my D2v new, and I would hope they would offer this same option when the time comes to upgrade that unit in the distant future....


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16741272
> 
> 
> This is great news for owners.... thanks for posting this ~ohdee~
> 
> 
> I bought my D2v new, and I would hope they would offer this same option when the time comes to upgrade that unit in the distant future....



Oh I hope I didn't confuse anyone.


I bought my D2 in December of 08! At the time everyone and their dog knew the D2v was set to release in weeks. My guess here but that's the reason I think Anthem advertised a very rare factory authorized sale on the D2 and AVM50. They were cleaning out existing stock. I picked up the D2 for about 50% its normal price. It was within my budget so I went for it knowing full well the D2v would be release by the end of January.


I figured I'll get the D2 at roughly 50% MSRP now and I'll upgrade to the D2v someday.


When I took possession of my D2 I was shocked to find coupon inside. The coupon is an offer to upgrade to the soon to be release D2v for 50% off the upgrade price (yet to be determined). My dealer didn't know I would be getting that coupon.


So unless you got a coupon with your D2v (which I've never heard of) you will not be able to take advantage of this someday when you wish to upgrade your D2v. I think this offer was only extended to people who bought a new D2 very late in the game. Only for those that bought out the last of the old stock. I guess it was an incentive to get people to buy. Heck I thought the sale price on the D2 was incentive enough and was very please when I found the coupon sitting on top of my D2.


----------



## sctonn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16740499
> 
> 
> Welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!
> 
> 
> Did your new D2v come with V2.07 factory installed? Also what version of ARC did you find on the install CD? You may have some cookies coming to you.
> 
> 
> The red Measured curves in the ARC charts are an unweighted average of what ARC has heard from each of the mic positions. In the course of producing its solution, ARC builds a mathematical model of what the Anthem will do to the audio signal. The green Calculated curves are produced by the simple expedient of running the red Measured curves through that model.
> 
> 
> So just as the red Measured curves don't reflect what any single mic position recorded (assuming you don't have an acoustically perfect setup where each mic position hears precisely the same thing), the green Calculated curves also don't reflect the expected result at any single mic position. In addition, the usefulness of the green Calculated curves depends on how well the mathematical model built by the ARC application actually reflects what happens inside the Anthem processor when the real Room Correction parameters are used to process real audio.
> 
> 
> But in general there's a high correlation between better looking Calculated curves and people saying their system actually sounds better during normal listening. Just remember that you don't listen to curves, so if you find a setup that sounds better to you then go with that one even if its Calculated curves are not quite as clean as some other setup that doesn't sound that good.
> 
> 
> If you'd like, post your ARC charts here and folks will comment on them.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the welcome! Been following this thread for a loong time. Took some time to finally step up, but I am very glad I did. Following everyone's progress has been very informative. Hopefully I am reaping the benefits!


ARC version is 2.1.0 (printed on box). F/W is 2.07 (printed on box). I am still working with the ARC s/w (it is very, very cool, I must say). Pluggin and chuggin in the advanced mode makes me understand the decisions it made, and I can't argue with them at this point. The sound is truly nice. 2 chan playback soundstage is just deep and the vocal separation is exceptional. Haven't even touched the video side yet.


My only knocks:


Some HDMI clunkiness. I get some audio drop outs on the Oppo, but switching sources seems to fix it. Some DVDA edits trip it up. Requing the song seems to get it to play. Minor stuff so far.


Mic stand thread. I don't know what's going on with the thread for the mic stand. Like it's a different size. Anyway, minor stuff.


Before posting my results I want to do another measurement sequence. I have some crazy low end response from my mains, which really surprised me, and which I believe led ARC to set the cutoff rather high (115 Hz). I have room treatments and some limited placement flexibility, so I want to do some experimentation in meas. mode with what I have. If it improves over how it sounds now, well, that would be just be wonderful.


I will post after the next round of experimentation.


Thanks!


scott


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16741435
> 
> 
> Oh I hope I didn't confuse anyone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I took possession of my D2 I was shocked to find coupon inside. The coupon is an offer to upgrade to the soon to be release D2v for 50% off the upgrade price (yet to be determined). My dealer didn't know I would be getting that coupon.




Hmmmm I'm still confused.... Maybe you could fax me a copy of that coupon...










OK JK...


Thanks for clearing that up, and glad you will have the opportunity to get a reduced rate on the upgrade


----------



## gostan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmarcoot* /forum/post/16739282
> 
> 
> One of the reasons I spent the money for the D2 two years ago was to be "protected" by Anthem's history of offering reasonably priced upgrades to keep their equipment current. I am extremely disappointed by this news as it definitely does not meet that criteria.
> 
> 
> Oh well, live and learn.



Most seem to be unhappy with the recently announced exchange program. I am the opposite as my decision to sell my D2 last January and upgrade to the new D2v saved me big bucks. I cannot stand the unknown, and for once my upgradeitis has paid off in real dinero!


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob. I tried the flash eraser and then run the firmware 2.07. It did not help. I am getting the same error. Will, I have to wait for Nick and see what he comes up with.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16742326
> 
> 
> Hello Bob. I tried the flash eraser and then run the firmware 2.07. It did not help. I am getting the same error. Will, I have to wait for Nick and see what he comes up with.



I'm not sure what is going on with your hardware. You've got a batch of problems that appear unrelated but it is unlikely all of this would go wrong at the same time without some common cause. I don't know if it is a hardware problem in your Anthem or something screwy going on in your computer.


I think that rather than confuse things it would be better for you to continue to work this problem with Anthem tech support.


While waiting: I don't recall if you ever had a clean firmware install using your original computer, but if so, I'd suggest going back to that one. Run the Flash Eraser a few times -- it should work the first time, but there have been some reports here of folks having better luck running it a few times in a row -- then try the firmware install again.


Also, make sure you are using the version of the Flash Eraser appropriate for your Anthem model. I think the wrong one will refuse to run, but check just in case.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sctonn* /forum/post/16741593
> 
> 
> Thanks for the welcome! Been following this thread for a loong time. Took some time to finally step up, but I am very glad I did. Following everyone's progress has been very informative. Hopefully I am reaping the benefits!
> 
> 
> ARC version is 2.1.0 (printed on box). F/W is 2.07 (printed on box). I am still working with the ARC s/w (it is very, very cool, I must say). Pluggin and chuggin in the advanced mode makes me understand the decisions it made, and I can't argue with them at this point. The sound is truly nice. 2 chan playback soundstage is just deep and the vocal separation is exceptional. Haven't even touched the video side yet.
> 
> 
> My only knocks:
> 
> 
> Some HDMI clunkiness. I get some audio drop outs on the Oppo, but switching sources seems to fix it. Some DVDA edits trip it up. Requing the song seems to get it to play. Minor stuff so far.
> 
> 
> Mic stand thread. I don't know what's going on with the thread for the mic stand. Like it's a different size. Anyway, minor stuff.
> 
> 
> Before posting my results I want to do another measurement sequence. I have some crazy low end response from my mains, which really surprised me, and which I believe led ARC to set the cutoff rather high (115 Hz). I have room treatments and some limited placement flexibility, so I want to do some experimentation in meas. mode with what I have. If it improves over how it sounds now, well, that would be just be wonderful.
> 
> 
> I will post after the next round of experimentation.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> scott



Presuming you haven't already downloaded and installed any firmware, you can verify the firmware factory installed in your Anthem by pressing Select once on the remote to see the firmware number in the display. The latest firmware version is V2.07, but yours may be the first report of a unit actually arriving with V2.07 factory installed.


For ARC, run it in Advanced mode and select About from the Help menu. The latest ARC is V2.2, however the change from V2.1 is minor. If you really did get V2.1 in the box you can download V2.2 from the Anthem public download pages and install it on top of V2.1 in your Windows PC. If you are already happy with your ARC results there's no rush to do this, but if you are going to redo your ARC stuff anyway you might as well get the latest version into your PC first.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16742433
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what is going on with your hardware. You've got a batch of problems that appear unrelated but it is unlikely all of this would go wrong at the same time without some common cause. I don't know if it is a hardware problem in your Anthem or something screwy going on in your computer.
> 
> 
> I think that rather than confuse things it would be better for you to continue to work this problem with Anthem tech support.
> 
> 
> While waiting: I don't recall if you ever had a clean firmware install using your original computer, but if so, I'd suggest going back to that one. Run the Flash Eraser a few times -- it should work the first time, but there have been some reports here of folks having better luck running it a few times in a row -- then try the firmware install again.
> 
> 
> Also, make sure you are using the version of the Flash Eraser appropriate for your Anthem model. I think the wrong one will refuse to run, but check just in case.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I downloaded the eraser that says for AVM20-HD and up but the d2v is not specifically mentioned. Is it possible for you to email me the eraser. my email is [email protected] . I really appreciate it.


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16741435
> 
> 
> Oh I hope I didn't confuse anyone.
> 
> 
> I bought my D2 in December of 08! At the time everyone and their dog knew the D2v was set to release in weeks. My guess here but that's the reason I think Anthem advertised a very rare factory authorized sale on the D2 and AVM50. They were cleaning out existing stock. I picked up the D2 for about 50% its normal price. It was within my budget so I went for it knowing full well the D2v would be release by the end of January.
> 
> 
> I figured I'll get the D2 at roughly 50% MSRP now and I'll upgrade to the D2v someday.
> 
> 
> When I took possession of my D2 I was shocked to find coupon inside. The coupon is an offer to upgrade to the soon to be release D2v for 50% off the upgrade price (yet to be determined). My dealer didn't know I would be getting that coupon.
> 
> 
> So unless you got a coupon with your D2v (which I've never heard of) you will not be able to take advantage of this someday when you wish to upgrade your D2v. I think this offer was only extended to people who bought a new D2 very late in the game. Only for those that bought out the last of the old stock. I guess it was an incentive to get people to buy. Heck I thought the sale price on the D2 was incentive enough and was very please when I found the coupon sitting on top of my D2.



It looks like those of us who upgraded once from the D1 to the D1HD will be out of luck upgradewise. No coupon, and possibly only a swap deal - not sure if the swap will be from D1 to D2V or D2 to D2V. I agree with one of the posters....... aside from a few occasional HDMI handshake issues with my satellite rcvr, I have no pops, hisses, ticks, etc. and the sound is great. It may be a while before I upgrade, based on comments here.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16742543
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I downloaded the eraser that says for AVM20-HD and up but the d2v is not specifically mentioned. Is it possible for you to email me the eraser. my email is [email protected] . I really appreciate it.



I'm sure you have the right version.


The best procedure is to run the eraser 3-4 times before

trying a firmware update. These E-Proms are sometimes

SLOW to clear the memory.


But it does sound like you have some hardware issues.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16742543
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I downloaded the eraser that says for AVM20-HD and up but the d2v is not specifically mentioned. Is it possible for you to email me the eraser. my email is [email protected] . I really appreciate it.



You've already got the correct one.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16742895
> 
> 
> You've already got the correct one.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I tried erasing the flash many times as you suggested but no luck.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16740955
> 
> 
> Hi Bob;
> 
> 
> Just wanted to confirm for you (and anyone else out there that's interested) that Anthem will be honoring the half off coupon. I received an email from Nick this morning confirming this. He said as long as the serial number on my D2 matches the number on the coupon and I am the original owner I can take advantage of the upgrade discounted at an additional 50%.
> 
> 
> He also said I can do this through my dealer or through Anthem direct.
> 
> 
> I still have to confirm the Canadian pricing! It looks like I'll be able to exchange my D2 to a D2v for approximately 2000.00!
> 
> 
> At that price... should I even consider passing it up?



This is an amazing deal, if you can afford I would go ahead and proceed.


----------



## Sfox7076

I have just received my Anthem D2V and love it. However, I have noticed an issue that I am not sure how to correct really. I have a Tivo Series 3 that has a few handshaking issues that I can live with. However, when I use my Tivo, I get an odd hiss out of the left side of the receiver. If I put the D2V in Anthem-Cinema, it does not make this noise. It may only do it when the Tivo is putting Dolby Digital is pushed out in 2.0 or 2.1 verses 5.1. Any ideas all?


Shawn


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16724649
> 
> 
> Was warranty mentioned? Since you get a new unit, I suspect you get a new unit warranty on the entire unit.
> 
> --Bob



at that price I think I will just keep my d1-hd and call it a day. I love what it does and am not going to pay almost 5k to get a little more horse power that I probably wont even notice ..at least not enough to justify the cost.


----------



## dschamis

Has Anthem actually announced anything regarding upgrades yet or is it all just still speculation?


----------



## Milt99

There's a post on the previous page where someone spoke to Anthem support.

But no, nothing "official".

Ohdee,

If you paid 1/2 retail for the D2, say ~$3200 + ~$2k for the upgrade, deal directly with Anthem to save any potential sales tax, I'd say that would be a very good deal.

OTOH, I'd go to your local dealer, check out the D2V and see if you see any video improvement, if possible.

If you don't need pre/pro HD decoding, maybe the $2k could be better spent on some other aspect of your system where you'd see a larger improvement for the money invested.

Just a thought.


----------



## usxplong

Well, I talked to Anthem again and they said my video card is no good. I have to wait for them to ship a new one to the dealer. What I don't like from Anthem is that they don't want to send anything to the consumer even after verifying the dealer's information and all necessary paper work. I asked Anthem to complete the paper work with the dealer then send me the video card so I can swap the old one with the new one. But they refused to do so. At some point Anthem should make the process a little easier and faster for the consumers. The dealer told me they have never changed the video card but anytime Anthem sends something to the dealers, it is something very easy.


But in the meanwhile I have a question. Is there a way to turn off the audio sent to tv thru hdmi? Why we need the audio from processor to tv?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sfox7076* /forum/post/16746663
> 
> 
> I have just received my Anthem D2V and love it. However, I have noticed an issue that I am not sure how to correct really. I have a Tivo Series 3 that has a few handshaking issues that I can live with. However, when I use my Tivo, I get an odd hiss out of the left side of the receiver. If I put the D2V in Anthem-Cinema, it does not make this noise. It may only do it when the Tivo is putting Dolby Digital is pushed out in 2.0 or 2.1 verses 5.1. Any ideas all?
> 
> 
> Shawn



I run my TiVo into my D2 via Component and Optical.


For TV Source Info - YOU DO NOT NEED HDMI. The BEST

HD-TV is only 1080i and DD 5.1.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16747683
> 
> 
> I run my TiVo into my D2 via Component and Optical.
> 
> 
> For TV Source Info - YOU DO NOT NEED HDMI. The BEST
> 
> HD-TV is only 1080i and DD 5.1.



That is thru. Why would anybody send the HD signal to d2v? Then anytime you watch tv, you should turn your d2v as well. You can send just the optical or coaxial to d2v so you will have the choice of using the d2v or not when watching tv.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16747706
> 
> 
> That is thru. Why would anybody send the HD signal to d2v? Then anytime you watch tv, you should turn your d2v as well. You can send just the optical or coaxial to d2v so you will have the choice of using the d2v or not when watching tv.



Yes - Cable Boxes Negotiate a NEW HDMI handshake every time

you change channels. Talk about ASKING for problems.


----------



## Sfox7076

I understand that, but my wife wants as few cables as possible, and this is the compromise...


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sfox7076* /forum/post/16747844
> 
> 
> I understand that, but my wife wants as few cables as possible, and this is the compromise...



One more cable vs lots of problems? That is not a good deal.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sfox7076* /forum/post/16747844
> 
> 
> I understand that, but my wife wants as few cables as possible, and this is the compromise...



Do you have the back of your units facing the audience or maybe your

back wall is glass and she can see it from the next room


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16747573
> 
> 
> Well, I talked to Anthem again and they said my video card is no good. I have to wait for them to ship a new one to the dealer. What I don't like from Anthem is that they don't want to send anything to the consumer even after verifying the dealer's information and all necessary paper work. I asked Anthem to complete the paper work with the dealer then send me the video card so I can swap the old one with the new one. But they refused to do so. At some point Anthem should make the process a little easier and faster for the consumers. The dealer told me they have never changed the video card but anytime Anthem sends something to the dealers, it is something very easy.
> 
> 
> But in the meanwhile I have a question. Is there a way to turn off the audio sent to tv thru hdmi? Why we need the audio from processor to tv?



There is no way to turn off the audio portion of the main HDMI output from the Anthem. The audio is a stereo mix-down of whatever is being processed in the Main audio path. It is 2.0 LPCM 48KHz. The idea is that it is present for folks who want to use speakers built into their HDMI TV.


There is almost always an easy way to tell the TV to ignore the audio on its HDMI input -- for example tell it to use a regular stereo audio input instead that you don't have connected to anything. Look in the TV's instruction manual for how to hook up a DVI source device for example.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16747906
> 
> 
> There is no way to turn off the audio portion of the main HDMI output from the Anthem. The audio is a stereo mix-down of whatever is being processed in the Main audio path. It is 2.0 LPCM 48KHz. The idea is that it is present for folks who want to use speakers built into their HDMI TV.
> 
> 
> There is almost always an easy way to tell the TV to ignore the audio on its HDMI input -- for example tell it to use a regular stereo audio input instead that you don't have connected to anything. Look in the TV's instruction manual for how to hook up a DVI source device for example.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


----------



## lk100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16740331
> 
> 
> There are several possible things going on here. A 12" sub may not be big enough to generate good subsonics for your room, or you may have more room problems than ARC can fully correct, or you may be using ARC improperly.
> 
> 
> For example: Double check that you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ set to ON for each of your source definitions in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> What you are describing sounds like an uncorrected room cancellation null. Such nulls will vary as you shift listening position a few feet. ARC corrects such problems but there are limits to what ARC will try to do (so as not to over-stress the sub or sub amp).
> 
> 
> Open up your ARC results file in ARC's "Advanced" mode to view the charts, capture the charts and post them here. The charts may tell the story of what's going on with your bass.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, below are the ARC results:


Thanks,


Lee


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100* /forum/post/16748755
> 
> 
> Bob, below are the ARC results:
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Lee



OK, as I recall from your two posts above your problem is in STEERED bass during music listening (not LFE). You're hearing weakness in steered bass in your center seating position but not to the sides.


From the charts, it looks like you've got some really strong room coupling going on that is boosting LF/RF (and to a lesser extent C) in the 50-100Hz range and that is reducing Sub in the 30-100Hz range. These are probably the SAME thing with the coupling difference just due to the different placement of the subwoofer compared to your front speakers.


Now ARC shows that it has corrected this (your residual errors in Sub are really quite small), but it is evidently doing quite a bit of work to do so, and I suspect what you are hearing is that the solution is not equally good across your different seating locations.


There are two ways to address this: (1) Change your mic locations, and perhaps add more locations, and (2) change how those speakers are coupling to the room.


Now you do (2) by speaker placement and/or room bass treatments (e.g., bass traps in the corners and on the walls behind those front speakers).


As far as changing speaker locations, at these frequencies even inches matter. For example, try setting your subwoofer at your central seating location and then play a bass test tone and measure SPL where you would normally place the sub. Look for a location that maximizes the SPL near your current sub location. That's probably where you want to put the sub.


By the way, your lowest frequency output from the sub is Measuring just fine, so there's no indication the sub is too small for your room.


Alternatively, just try shifting the sub around a few inches at a time and re-Measure with ARC. You can speed this up by telling ARC (temporarily) that you only have a 2.1 configuration. You'll still need to Measure at all the mic positions, but it will go a bit faster.


In addition to trying to find a sub location that reduces its notch, you also want to adjust LF/RF (and to a lesser degree C) to reduce their peak. Again, some positioning adjustment can help, but it's more common for folks to tackle such issues with room bass treatments.


My guess is the bulk of your problem is actually in what ARC is doing to LF/RF rather than what it is doing to Sub. ARC has to cut LF/RF fairly significantly in the 50-100Hz range and it may be overdoing it a bit based on your particularly mic placements. Make sure mic #1 is at your center seating position. Alternate either side of #1 for subsequent mic positions. Make sure no two mic positions (whether or not sequential) are closer than 24 inches apart. Set the mic pointing straight up at seated ear height, and keep the mic away from reflective surfaces such as walls or seat backs. If necessary raise the mic tip a few inches to clear a seat back or move the mic about a foot closer to the screen to keep it away from a seat back.


The idea is to use enough mic positions, far enough spaced, to span the seating region you want ARC to handle. Ideally, your outermost mic positions should be beyond your side seating locations. This is often done in an arc with the outermost 2 (or 4) mic positions curving in towards the screen a few feet.

--Bob


----------



## Sfox7076

Well, I have hooked it up via optical and I am still getting the hiss/crackle out of the left side speakers.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sfox7076* /forum/post/16749392
> 
> 
> Well, I have hooked it up via optical and I am still getting the hiss/crackle out of the left side speakers.



I had a hiss/crackle problem with my D2V, and found that reinstalling the firmware made it go away.


Does you hiss/crackle problem get louder when you turn up the volume?


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16747573
> 
> 
> Well, I talked to Anthem again and they said my video card is no good. I have to wait for them to ship a new one to the dealer. What I don't like from Anthem is that they don't want to send anything to the consumer even after verifying the dealer's information and all necessary paper work. I asked Anthem to complete the paper work with the dealer then send me the video card so I can swap the old one with the new one. But they refused to do so. At some point Anthem should make the process a little easier and faster for the consumers. The dealer told me they have never changed the video card but anytime Anthem sends something to the dealers, it is something very easy.



USX,

Anthem is doing you a favor. The board swap might actually be easy but Anthem has no way of knowing your skill level or lack thereof.

What may seem "easy" could just as easily turn into a fried board, a bent pin or a cracked PCB.

Let the dealer take the responsibility for the swap.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sfox7076* /forum/post/16749392
> 
> 
> Well, I have hooked it up via optical and I am still getting the hiss/crackle out of the left side speakers.



You could try pluging the optical directly into your tv and see if it also does hiss/crackle on your tv speaker. If yes then your tivo has problem.


----------



## sctonn

Bob,


I verified the factory installed f/w as 2.07. ARC is 2.1.0, per help menu.


Question regarding the dB scale of the volume: After running ARC, is the 0dB referenced to some level? I looked in the manual and it read that it should be at theater playback level if set up was done correctly. Is that automatic via ARC? If so, it seems kind of loud.


Will get to the remeasure and ARC 2.2 download this weekend. Will share some results thereafter. Just enjoying the D2v for now- Thanks


sct


----------



## lk100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16749140
> 
> 
> OK,
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> as I recall from your two posts above your problem is in STEERED bass during music listening (not LFE). You're hearing weakness in steered bass in your center seating position but not to the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Now you do (2) by speaker placement and/or room bass treatments (e.g., bass traps in the corners and on the walls behind those front speakers).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I have now placed a bass trap in each front corner, and panels on the two side walls. Since my room is only 13' wide and the screen is 100", I have limited space for treatments behind the speakers. I have moved the fronts to the edge of the screen on both sides and moved them further from the front wall. This allows for sub placement in the corner next to the FL speaker. As I walk around the room I hear no real change, but I haven't rerun ARC. The side wall opposite the sub really gets a huge amount of bass. The bass near the wall where the sub resides is not as strong as the right wall. A problem now is that I have no other treatment panels. Looks like I will need more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> As far as changing speaker locations, at these frequencies even inches matter.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I probably should remove the spikes from the speakers so they can be easily manuevered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> For example, try setting your subwoofer at your central seating location and then play a bass test tone and measure SPL where you would normally place the sub. Look for a location that maximizes the SPL near your current sub location.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> That's probably where you want to put the sub.
> 
> 
> Do you mean physically moving the sub to the central seating position?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> In addition to trying to find a sub location that reduces its notch, you also want to adjust LF/RF (and to a lesser degree C) to reduce their peak. Again, some positioning adjustment can help, but it's more common for folks to tackle such issues with room bass treatments.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I'm not at all experienced with room bass treatments. I have 2 traps and 2 side panels on audition from my dealer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> The idea is to use enough mic positions, far enough spaced, to span the seating region you want ARC to handle. Ideally, your outermost mic positions should be beyond your side seating locations. This is often done in an arc with the outermost 2 (or 4) mic positions curving in towards the screen a few feet.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...


My rightmost seat is right up against the wall, and the leftmost seat is just a couple of feet from the wall so I can't mike beyond those positions.


Another issue here that makes it hard for ARC is that currently the LF, C and RF speakers are not a match. I just added signature C3 center and it has different characteristics than the two fronts. I've had a tough time getting the charts to flatline at 75db since installing the C3. My plan is to eventually get a matched set.


Thanks,


Lee


----------



## cragger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/16730118
> 
> 
> Sorry guys
> 
> But this is latest news from Piero.
> 
> It is not an upgrade to go from a D2 to a D2v. It is also a replacement. You will get a brand new D2v with a new three year warantee.
> 
> The price is $3899 with a ARC and $4299 without one. Yes, you pay the lower price if you own the ARC. I do not know if this includes shipping. You will have to return your D2. Also, when this is done is their any custom charges?
> 
> It looks like they are selling for about 50% off list price. I do not know if this is the dealer mark up.
> 
> Also, if you could get it from your dealer at a better price.
> 
> The only good news is that it is a new unit with new warantee. In hind site they probably should have called it a D3. I think they were hoping they would do an upgrade, and it was too labor and part intensive.



Received an email from Piero today

The news doesn't get any better with the avm30 to the avm50v upgrade either.This too is a replacement.It will cost $4599







for this so called upgrade.

I guess it there is just to much to replace to be cost effective.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cragger* /forum/post/16750518
> 
> 
> Received an email from Piero today
> 
> The news doesn't get any better with the avm30 to the avm50v upgrade either.This too is a replacement.It will cost $4599
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for this so called upgrade.
> 
> I guess it there is just to much to replace to be cost effective.



So the only one missing now to get a complete picture is an AVM50 to an AVM50V but I am going to guess that this will be about the same as the D2 to D2V upgrade.


Based upon the comments on this board and my own feelings Anthem will not get swamped with upgrade requests.


For the moment at least I will stick with my D1/DVDO VP50 combination and using the analog out from my bluray player. Maybe I can work on my wonderful wife to get me the upgrade for Christmas or something like that


----------



## Sfox7076

No hiss from my old Pre-Amp, so I am going to flash the firmware tonight.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sfox7076* /forum/post/16751452
> 
> 
> No hiss from my old Pre-Amp, so I am going to flash the firmware tonight.



I'd be very surprised if reloading the FW will fix your HISS.

But it is worth the try.


Hiss just sounds like an ANALOG issue - maybe one of your

DACs is bad. This is a NEW D2v - Correct?


----------



## Sfox7076

Yes, it is new out of the box. The D2V just arrived.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sfox7076* /forum/post/16751515
> 
> 
> Yes, it is new out of the box. The D2V just arrived.



If it is something defective - Anthem will fix for sure.


I know someone else said reloading the firmware fixed their

Hiss - But You'll know after tonight. Just be sure all your HDMI

Connection are UNPLUGGED from the D2v.


Good Luck.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Folks, I'm a bit busy at the moment, so don't be surprised if it takes me a little longer to respond to questions.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sfox7076* /forum/post/16751452
> 
> 
> No hiss from my old Pre-Amp, so I am going to flash the firmware tonight.



Temporarily swap the speaker outputs at the back of the D2v. If the problem moves to the new speakers then you know it is nothing in your speaker cabling, power amps, or the speakers themselves.


Try a different audio source device to double check it is not the Tivo.


A hiss is sometimes the result of radio frequency interference. The most common source of that is light dimmer switches. If possible turn off the circuit breaker that powers such switches and see if the hiss goes away.


Failing that, it sounds to me like you have a hardware problem in the D2v. Get in touch with Anthem tech support and let them know the results of these tests.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100* /forum/post/16749791
> 
> 
> My rightmost seat is right up against the wall, and the leftmost seat is just a couple of feet from the wall so I can't mike beyond those positions.
> 
> 
> Another issue here that makes it hard for ARC is that currently the LF, C and RF speakers are not a match. I just added signature C3 center and it has different characteristics than the two fronts. I've had a tough time getting the charts to flatline at 75db since installing the C3. My plan is to eventually get a matched set.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Lee



Yes I meant physically moving the sub to your center seating position and then taking SPL measurements at candidate locations for the proper positioning of the sub. Room characteristics work both ways, so whatever is killing you sub output when you are at center seating will also kill it if the sub is at center seating and you are at the desired sub location.


It is more important to keep the mic away from reflective surfaces than to try to cram the mic between your side seats and the walls.


-----------------------------------


But before you do ANY of that, it just dawned on me that what you are describing could also be explained by a failure to properly set the phase/polarity for your subwoofer.


Steered bass is bass moved from the main speakers to the sub in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies. This is not a sudden transition -- it happens gradually over the course of an octave or so. That means there's a good octave of frequencies where BOTH the sub and the mains are sending out the same content. If the sub is out of phase with the mains you will get cancellation -- anemic steered bass in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies.


ARC can't set sub polarity or phase for you since it only listens to one speaker at a time. You have to do it manually. And "correct" phase actually changes as the relative distance to the speakers changes -- i.e., as you shift seating positions. Which means your problem may simply be that, by chance, your sub is 180 degrees out of phase when you are at your center seating position.


So manually set your speaker distances and then follow the instructions on setting sub phase and polarity that you'll find in the post links collected in the first post of this thread. Note that as long as you don't move any speakers while setting phase/polarity, there's no need to redo your ARC setup. The ARC solution ASSUMES you've got proper phase (and speaker distance settings) and the results will just sound better when those are entered correctly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sctonn* /forum/post/16749787
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I verified the factory installed f/w as 2.07. ARC is 2.1.0, per help menu.
> 
> 
> Question regarding the dB scale of the volume: After running ARC, is the 0dB referenced to some level? I looked in the manual and it read that it should be at theater playback level if set up was done correctly. Is that automatic via ARC? If so, it seems kind of loud.
> 
> 
> Will get to the remeasure and ARC 2.2 download this weekend. Will share some results thereafter. Just enjoying the D2v for now- Thanks
> 
> 
> sct



V2.07? Well that's good for a COOKIE!


There's still a cookie available for the first poster to confirm a new delivery with ARC V2.2 in the box.


----------------------------------


The levels you measure with your SPL meter using the built-in test tones in Setup > Level Calibration, and the SPL levels shown on the ARC charts, are designed to match what "reference level" audio sources will produce as output when the main volume control on the Anthem is set to -10dB.


Typically, the recommendation for home theater setups is that you target 75dB SPL. Movie theaters target 85dB SPL. So if you set a 75dB calibration level and then play content at 0dB you will be achieving movie theater levels, which most folks find quite a bit too loud for home theater use.


Also keep in mind:


1) PEAK levels in audio tracks can easily exceed "reference" levels by 20dB or so.


2) Each movie will be mixed with its own idea of what actual content will be presented as "reference level". So expect different actual volume from different movies.


3) Traditional lossy tracks and the new high bandwidth tracks are often mixed at somewhat different levels.


Much more important than trying to match any theoretical reference level is that you play your content at whatever volume levels that you find pleasing.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/16749420
> 
> 
> USX,
> 
> Anthem is doing you a favor. The board swap might actually be easy but Anthem has no way of knowing your skill level or lack thereof.
> 
> What may seem "easy" could just as easily turn into a fried board, a bent pin or a cracked PCB.
> 
> Let the dealer take the responsibility for the swap.



My appology to Anthem. I found from dealer that after installing the board they have to download some program or files to the board. I don't know what that is and even the dealer didn't know. The dealer found about this download after they talked to Anthem.

Well, for me it is about 2 hours of drive each way to the dealership.

Is it possible to change the dealership to the one closer to me?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16754159
> 
> 
> My appology to Anthem. I found from dealer that after installing the board they have to download some program or files to the board. I don't know what that is and even the dealer didn't know. The dealer found about this download after they talked to Anthem.
> 
> Well, for me it is about 2 hours of drive each way to the dealership.
> 
> Is it possible to change the dealership to the one closer to me?



They have to re-install the firmware to initialize the new board. Since you were having problems with the firmware install this eliminates the chance you wouldn't be able to get it going with your computer -- which would raise the issue of whether the problem was in your computer or in the way the new board got installed.


Once the new video board is known to be up and running with the proper firmware, then Anthem can tackle with you whether you still have a problem doing firmware installs with your computer.

--Bob


----------



## Sfox7076

Flashed the firmware and the hiss is gone so far. Woo hoo.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sfox7076* /forum/post/16756167
> 
> 
> Flashed the firmware and the hiss is gone so far. Woo hoo.



























As you know - I would NOT have guessed that outcome.


Now we know!


----------



## Warpdrv

I think were ready for another firmware upgrade.... Looking forward to Dolby Volume !!


These freakin commercials are killin me....


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16758233
> 
> 
> I think were ready for another firmware upgrade.... Looking forward to Dolby Volume !!
> 
> 
> These freakin commercials are killin me....



I'm with you on that one for sure..........


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sfox7076* /forum/post/16756167
> 
> 
> Flashed the firmware and the hiss is gone so far. Woo hoo.



Hey, that's great!


It is still very much a mystery to me what is going on here. Anthem had better check their factory for hiss fairies.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *warpdrv* /forum/post/16758233
> 
> 
> i think were ready for another firmware upgrade.... Looking forward to dolby volume !!
> 
> 
> These freakin commercials are killin me....



+∞


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My "guesser" obviously need adjustment. I was convinced we'd see Dolby Volume before the end of June.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sfox7076* /forum/post/16756167
> 
> 
> Flashed the firmware and the hiss is gone so far. Woo hoo.



Keep careful note of anything you do to your setup from here on out that might be the cause if the "hiss" returns.


I would not expect a firmware install to cure a "hiss" problem, particularly when it is only on one speaker channel. But the software is complicated, and so I suppose anything is possible. On the other hand, things you did ALONG WITH doing the firmware install might have actually been the cure -- e.g., unplugging/re-plugging and shifting cables.


In any event, you can't argue with success! I would definitely *NOT* recommend you try any experiments to see if you can make the "hiss" come back.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sfox7076* /forum/post/16756167
> 
> 
> Flashed the firmware and the hiss is gone so far. Woo hoo.



By erasing the flash and reinstalling it, I could not fix my video card problem but what I got was a mind blowing sound. I was getting good sound before too but it was short of what everybody is talking about. After I re-uploaded the flash and firmware, I watch the new movie "Street Fighter" in BD and woooooo. It blew me out of my seat. I cannot believe the difference. Now I know what people meant by good sound from d2v. Now I listen to my music at a very low volume and still hear every little detail of the music that I can hear louder. I hope after fixing my video card and reloading the firmware, I would be able to fix the drop that I was getting around 15k hz by running ARC. I guess that was also part of the flash problem but not sure. Will see.


----------



## greyflag

As per Piero, the upgrade to an AVM 50v will cost $3799 if your AVM 50 does not have ARC, and $3499 with ARC. This is US Dollars. In any case, I don't imagine that there will be too many takers..


----------



## muad'dib

Just got my new awesome oppo blu-ray..










Tried to play "stargate Extended cut" on blu-ray..


D2V picked up bitstream as DTS HD HR 7.1 (even though the blu-ray only says ES 6.1)


Anyway, playing the movie, I could hear pop noises every once in a while from random speakers..


I had this same issue with "the Arrival" blu-ray that was also 7.1 DTS HD MA..


I think there still is an issue with these audio tracks..










or maybe, I could be wrong..


----------



## muad'dib

I tried the Erase feature on ARC software, but, it looked like it was just re-coping the current values that were in D2v and re-uploaded them..


I could be wrong, but , just want to know what the Erase really does.


When I ran the erase, I did not load any files in to the arc program. Just hit the erase button..


BTW..


Found that doing an erase first, then loading in my ARC readings, and re-calc them and upload to D2V sounded somehow better the just overwriting the current session on D2v..


----------



## zzzzdoc

OK. D2V arrived yesterday. WooHoo!!!!!!


Can't wait to set it up over the weekend.


What's the latest firmware / ARC software versions I should be using?


I'm planning on the Denon DBP-2010CI blu-ray player to match to it, although perhaps the Oppo if the Denon reviews aren't stellar. Want RS-232 in any case.


----------



## Warpdrv

Firmware now is 2.07 and ARC is 2.2


Just shoot right for the Oppo from the get go.... its a fantastic multi player and has tons of features, pic quality and audio quality is top notch.... it also offers the RS-232 on order which will delay shipment a touch...


----------



## slots1

Bob

After much thought I have decided not to replace for the D2v, and wait for the D3.

So, after a year I downloaded ARC 2.2 and used the Belkin usb to serial adaptor.

The message I got was "Measurement procedure failed. Could not find valid Anthem processor."

I emailed Nick and he told me to get the keyspan. I went ahead and ordered it.

I had read on this site that the Belkin worked fine. Oh well.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/16764134
> 
> 
> OK. D2V arrived yesterday. WooHoo!!!!!!



No bouncies???? This crowd is getting tougher.


Oh, and no cookie either.







It only came with 2.1. Thought I was going to nail that one.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Belkin worked with XP running in a VMware Fusion virtual machine on a iMac OS 10.x


You would think if it worked in a virtual machine with XP it would work with a native install but we are talking Microsoft.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/16768662
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> After much thought I have decided not to replace for the D2v, and wait for the D3.
> 
> So, after a year I downloaded ARC 2.2 and used the Belkin usb to serial adaptor.
> 
> The message I got was "Measurement procedure failed. Could not find valid Anthem processor."
> 
> I emailed Nick and he told me to get the keyspan. I went ahead and ordered it.
> 
> I had read on this site that the Belkin worked fine. Oh well.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

In light of the recent bad news regarding the upgrade costs of the d2 to d2v wouldn't it be nice if we owners of the d2 could get perhaps a little attention in the form of a firmware update?


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16751421
> 
> 
> So the only one missing now to get a complete picture is an AVM50 to an AVM50V but I am going to guess that this will be about the same as the D2 to D2V upgrade.



$3800 without ARC and $3500 with ARC is crazy. Isn't the upgrade from ARC around $600? So they can't use the DAC's again and only give $300 credit?


Also, someone mentioned a D3???


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16769445
> 
> 
> In light of the recent bad news regarding the upgrade costs of the d2 to d2v wouldn't it be nice if we owners of the d2 could get perhaps a little attention in the form of a firmware update?



What was the cost? I checked back a few pages but didn't see it. Just curious.


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16753429
> 
> 
> Folks, I'm a bit busy at the moment, so don't be surprised if it takes me a little longer to respond to questions.
> 
> --Bob



WOW Bob. It took you a whole 3 minutes to give a short answer and a _painfully_ long 10 minutes to give a long answer!!!



Take your time on this one, but any idea if we need ARC to get the Dolby Volume (if they do make it available)?


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/16768706
> 
> 
> No bouncies???? This crowd is getting tougher.
> 
> 
> Oh, and no cookie either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only came with 2.1. Thought I was going to nail that one.



Here ya go Doc


























I second the Oppo too, it's a great player. Although I have no experience with the Denon ones, so have no idea as to which is better.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/16769466
> 
> 
> $3800 without ARC and $3500 with ARC is crazy. Isn't the upgrade from ARC around $600? So they can't use the DAC's again and only give $300 credit?
> 
> 
> Also, someone mentioned a D3???



The D3 mention may have been me. It is just a tag I use for the next generation Anthem processor. For all I know Anthem will call it the Soundmiester5000.










I have to agree the upgrade options to the latest generation of Anthems is pretty pathetic. Like I said earlier at least they can say they offered an upgrade.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16769445
> 
> 
> In light of the recent bad news regarding the upgrade costs of the d2 to d2v wouldn't it be nice if we owners of the d2 could get perhaps a little attention in the form of a firmware update?



A D2 firmware upgrade would be nice for those that are having problems with v1.33. I understand there are some who are still having problem, but for me v1.33 has been extremely stable.

I, who normally finds myself being driven to get the latest and greatest, have no desire to get rid of my D2 for the D2v. I have only one monitor and don't plan to get any more. My monitor is a 50'' plasma, so the 'old' Gennum vxp video processor is just great.

I had 3 hdmi components connected, but with the oppo bdp83 (this is what I mean about needing the 'latest and greatest') replacing the panasonic BR and oppo 980, I now have 2 open hdmi connections on the D2. I see no reason to have 6 empty hdmi connections.

I have learned to check the audio setting on the 83 each time I start a bluray, so I don't need to see a little light to know I'm listening to Dolby-HD or DTS-MA audio. Decoding in the player and sending pcm works just fine.

Although I do have a 7.1 speaker set-up, PLIIx works more than adequately for sending sound to the rears.

I am really happy with my D2, especially since adding ARC, and I think we should show the D2 a little love and respect in this thread. It is by no means an outdated machine.

Love,

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/16769630
> 
> 
> Take your time on this one, but any idea if we need ARC to get the Dolby Volume (if they do make it available)?



Dolby Volume will only be available on the AVM 50v and the D2v, both of which already come bundled with ARC.


I don't know if you HAVE TO set up your ARC stuff for the Dolby Volume stuff to work.

--Bob


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16770061
> 
> 
> The D3 mention may have been me. It is just a tag I use for the next generation Anthem processor. For all I know Anthem will call it the Soundmiester5000.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to agree the upgrade options to the latest generation of Anthems is pretty pathetic. Like I said earlier at least they can say they offered an upgrade.



I'll be waiting with you. At these prices, they should just let us keep our current units.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/16768662
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> After much thought I have decided not to replace for the D2v, and wait for the D3.
> 
> So, after a year I downloaded ARC 2.2 and used the Belkin usb to serial adaptor.
> 
> The message I got was "Measurement procedure failed. Could not find valid Anthem processor."
> 
> I emailed Nick and he told me to get the keyspan. I went ahead and ordered it.
> 
> I had read on this site that the Belkin worked fine. Oh well.



The Keyspan is the one to get *UNLESS* you are using the VMWare Fusion environment on a Mac to run your Windows XP. In that case, the Belkin is the one to get.

--Bob


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16770680
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume will only be available on the AVM 50v and the D2v, both of which already come bundled with ARC.
> 
> 
> I don't know if you HAVE TO set up your ARC stuff for the Dolby Volume stuff to work.
> 
> --Bob



I have an older AMV50 without ARC, but have been thinking about getting it. Dolby volume would be the thing that really gets me to get ARC.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/16770705
> 
> 
> I have an older AMV50 without ARC, but have been thinking about getting it. Dolbe volume would be the thing that really gets me to get ARC.



You don't have enough processor power in the AVM 50 to add Dolby Volume. If you really want Dolby Volume you'll need to step up to an AVM 50v or D2v. Of course nobody posting here has had a chance to play with Dolby Volume on the Anthem's yet.


ARC is great on the AVM 50, but if you know you are going to do the trade in to the newer unit it is cheaper to NOT upgrade your AVM 50 with ARC beforehand (based on the trade-in pricing just posted here).

--Bob


----------



## /dev/null




> Quote:
> For all I know Anthem will call it the Soundmiester5000



Mmmmm... Now *that's* what I'm talking about...







I'd buy THAT for a dollar!!!










Quick question for the 50v owners.... I currently have a NAD T175(with an NAD 975 amp), and it's been nothing but problems(the 175, not the 975). Poor S-Vid upscaling(if at all), popping from the speakers *before* the relays mute, no support for 192k/24bit audio over HDMI, and just plain poor HDMI implementation in general. The 50v looks to be everything I want, but I want to make sure there are no outstanding problems with the unit. How does it play with others? I have a PS3, HD-DVD(still), HD cable, and AppleTV, and a Pioneer DV79avi I use for DVD-A. Has anyone had issues with any of these? I'd rather find out now, before I drop that much $$$ on a pre-amp.


----------



## slots1

Bob

No I am running vista on a two month old dell laptop. So, the keyspan will be in next week.

Thanks gerry


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by */dev/null* /forum/post/16771488
> 
> 
> Mmmmm... Now *that's* what I'm talking about...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd buy THAT for a dollar!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question for the 50v owners.... I currently have a NAD T175(with an NAD 975 amp), and it's been nothing but problems(the 175, not the 975). Poor S-Vid upscaling(if at all), popping from the speakers *before* the relays mute, no support for 192k/24bit audio over HDMI, and just plain poor HDMI implementation in general. The 50v looks to be everything I want, but I want to make sure there are no outstanding problems with the unit. How does it play with others? I have a PS3, HD-DVD(still), HD cable, and AppleTV, and a Pioneer DV79avi I use for DVD-A. Has anyone had issues with any of these? I'd rather find out now, before I drop that much $$$ on a pre-amp.



I don't own a 2nd Gen Anthem Pre-Pro - but I might compete with Levesque,

the author of this thread for the oldest D2.


The 50v and D2v are new platforms. The IMPROVEMENT you will experience

over your NAD will make you overlook any minor glitches in a NEXT Gen

Anthem unit.


Anthem support is the *BEST* in the Industry and they are working on updates

to fix all the Minor Glitches. One of the reasons I will not upgrade to the D2v

is because it is so outstanding. YES the D2v is more OUTSTANDING - but

once you experience ANTHEM quality - it is hard to reach for the next STAR


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16764579
> 
> 
> Firmware now is 2.07 and ARC is 2.2
> 
> 
> Just shoot right for the Oppo from the get go.... its a fantastic multi player and has tons of features, pic quality and audio quality is top notch.... it also offers the RS-232 on order which will delay shipment a touch...



How much does the picture quality of the player matter if we are using the D2V to do the processing via its video chips?


----------



## jnpremm

I am using a pioneer kuro plasma for viewing. Am currently using a lumagen radiance xd as a video switch and Bryston 2.0 as a pre/pro. I have been waiting for a SP 3.0 from Bryston but its taking them a long time to get this unit out. So I have been considering jumping to the MV50v. Does anyone have a view on the video processing in the MV50v in comparison to the lumigen?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jnpremm* /forum/post/16773291
> 
> 
> I am using a pioneer kuro plasma for viewing. Am currently using a lumagen radiance xd as a video switch and Bryston 2.0 as a pre/pro. I have been waiting for a SP 3.0 from Bryston but its taking them a long time to get this unit out. So I have been considering jumping to the MV50v. Does anyone have a view on the video processing in the MV50v in comparison to the lumigen?



It is probably AT LEAST as good if not better. The VP in the new Anthem

v2's are newer than the Lumagen. I think the Lumagen has only one feature

the Anthem's don't and that is CMS and CMS should NEVER be done in any VP.

It should be done in the PJ.


I had a DVDO VP50 and I upgrade to a D2 and the VP in the D2 was as good

if not better than the DVDO.


----------



## WestCoastD

any AVM-50/AVM-50V owners experiencing any "popping" occurences when switching from one HDMI source to another?


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by */dev/null* /forum/post/16771488
> 
> 
> The 50v looks to be everything I want, but I want to make sure there are no outstanding problems with the unit.



The only problem I experience is random snap/crackle/pop sounds usually when there is no audio, for instance fast forwarding, pause, changing inputs etc. It seems to happen with certain devices more than others.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WestCoastD* /forum/post/16774500
> 
> 
> any AVM-50/AVM-50V owners experiencing any "popping" occurences when switching from one HDMI source to another?



Yes I do. Please email [email protected] with your equipment and let them know you have the popping sounds. Hopefully the more people that mention it, the more they will try and find a cure.


----------



## WestCoastD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16774669
> 
> 
> The only problem I experience is random snap/crackle/pop sounds usually when there is no audio, for instance fast forwarding, pause, changing inputs etc. It seems to happen with certain devices more than others





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16774669
> 
> 
> Yes I do. Please email [email protected] with your equipment and let them know you have the popping sounds. Hopefully the more people that mention it, the more they will try and find a cure



thanks for your input!


----------



## emailtim

D2V Owners,


I am looking for an XLR based Pre/Pro and have the Integra 9.9 and Anthem D2V on my short list. Since I bypass the Pre/Pro for Video and go straight to my Kuro 141FD monitor, I am mostly interested in audio performance. I would appreciate your feedback on the following questions to help expedite my purchase decision.


1) Would you buy the D2V again?

2) Which software is better for audio?

3) The Audyssey software has TV Commercial Detection and keeps the commercial audio from blasting. This is a fantastic feature since we use our HT mostly for TV. Does the ARC software have this feature?

4) The D2V only has 5.1 analog in versus 7.1 analog ins.

5) The D2V has a 2-prong plug where the Integra has a 3 prong plug (no common mode rejection from balanced power units).


Thanks for your help,

Tim


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WestCoastD* /forum/post/16774500
> 
> 
> any AVM-50/AVM-50V owners experiencing any "popping" occurences when switching from one HDMI source to another?



Absolutely no snaps, crackles, pops or any other sounds from my D2v.


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16778458
> 
> 
> D2V Owners,
> 
> 
> I am looking for an XLR based Pre/Pro and have the Integra 9.9 and Anthem D2V on my short list. Since I bypass the Pre/Pro for Video and go straight to my Kuro 141FD monitor, I am mostly interested in audio performance. I would appreciate your feedback on the following questions to help expedite my purchase decision.
> 
> 
> 1) Would you buy the D2V again?
> 
> 2) Which software is better for audio?
> 
> 3) The Audigy software has TV Commercial Detection and keeps the commercial audio from blasting. This is a fantastic feature since we use our HT mostly for TV. Does the ARC software have this feature?
> 
> 4) The D2V only has 5.1 analog in versus 7.1 analog ins.
> 
> 5) The D2V has a 2-prong plug where the Integra has a 3 prong plug (no common mode rejection from balanced power units).
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> 
> Tim



1) Yes

2) Not sure of your question

3) Dolby Volume is coming in a free firmware update.

4) I don't use analog ins, but it wasn't a factor for me.

5) Dead silent for me.


Why do you want to run all the video directly to the Kuro? I have the Kuro 150FD and I run everything through the D2v. Picture is GREAT...


----------



## zzzzdoc

I'm at a friends updating his D2 and ARC.


What's the latest appropriate beta software for the D2? Is it the same as the software for the D2V?


Also, what's the latest beta software for the ARC for the D2? Is it the same as for the D2V?


----------



## WestCoastD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16778636
> 
> 
> Absolutely no snaps, crackles, pops or any other sounds from my D2v.



that's great to know. And your unit operated this clean from initial use (prior to any firmware upgrades)?


Actually I was inquiring primarily about the AVM-50/AVM-50V, however I really appreciate your input!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16778458
> 
> 
> D2V Owners,
> 
> 
> I am looking for an XLR based Pre/Pro and have the Integra 9.9 and Anthem D2V on my short list. Since I bypass the Pre/Pro for Video and go straight to my Kuro 141FD monitor, I am mostly interested in audio performance. I would appreciate your feedback on the following questions to help expedite my purchase decision.
> 
> 
> 1) Would you buy the D2V again?
> 
> 2) Which software is better for audio?
> 
> 3) The Audyssey software has TV Commercial Detection and keeps the commercial audio from blasting. This is a fantastic feature since we use our HT mostly for TV. Does the ARC software have this feature?
> 
> 4) The D2V only has 5.1 analog in versus 7.1 analog ins.
> 
> 5) The D2V has a 2-prong plug where the Integra has a 3 prong plug (no common mode rejection from balanced power units).
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> 
> Tim



You can call me a *WISE GUY* it you want.


But I would recommend you *NOT buying* a D2v.


Anyone who bypasses the D2v Video and Uses Analog

Inputs - DOES NOT WANT a D2v. You are still operating

in the DARK AGES










I told you - it is OK to call me a *WISE GUY* it you want.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16778458
> 
> 
> D2V Owners,
> 
> 
> I am looking for an XLR based Pre/Pro and have the Integra 9.9 and Anthem D2V on my short list. Since I bypass the Pre/Pro for Video and go straight to my Kuro 141FD monitor, I am mostly interested in audio performance. I would appreciate your feedback on the following questions to help expedite my purchase decision.
> 
> 
> 1) Would you buy the D2V again?
> 
> 2) Which software is better for audio?
> 
> 3) The Audyssey software has TV Commercial Detection and keeps the commercial audio from blasting. This is a fantastic feature since we use our HT mostly for TV. Does the ARC software have this feature?
> 
> 4) The D2V only has 5.1 analog in versus 7.1 analog ins.
> 
> 5) The D2V has a 2-prong plug where the Integra has a 3 prong plug (no common mode rejection from balanced power units).
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> 
> Tim



I owned the previous generation, the 9.8, and here are my answers and explanations:


1) Yes. But if you are not using the video portion you might want to look at other processors. If your viewing is almost all TV (limited Blu-Ray, DVD, or analog audio), I would get the 9.9.

2) ARC is better than the base Audessey available without a professional room calibration. If you never change your room, speakers, etc. then paying for the calibration is an option, but any room changes require a recalibration. The ARC allows the user to make the changes, Audessey requires a professional calibration to match the abilities or ARC. If you can get the license and do the advanced Audessey yourself, then I would say the softwares are very comparable.

3) The upcoming Dolby software upgrade might include this??

4) This is one thing that Anthem messed up on and I miss it from my previous 9.8. However, I am not sure why you would need this with mostly TV viewing.

5) I had a hum with my 9.8 and my balanced amplifiers, no hum with the D2v.


The main areas (for me) that the D2v beat out the 9.8:


1. Better customer service (Onkyo service is bad).

2. Analog performance - the D2v is much better than the 9.8s. The Anthem allows you to apply the room corrections, crossovers, etc to the 5.1 external inputs, the Onkyo is a straight pass through (unless this has changed for the 9.9).

3. See my answer on the software above.


Mike


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16779341
> 
> 
> I owned the previous generation, the 9.8, and here are my answers and explanations:
> 
> 
> Mike



GREAT answers from someone who is *NOT* a *Wise Guy*


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WestCoastD* /forum/post/16778892
> 
> 
> that's great to know. And your unit operated this clean from initial use (prior to any firmware upgrades)?
> 
> 
> Actually I was inquiring primarily about the AVM-50/AVM-50V, however I really appreciate your input!



Clean out of the box. Done one upgrade and that was to the latest GA version.


Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/16778823
> 
> 
> I'm at a friends updating his D2 and ARC.
> 
> 
> What's the latest appropriate beta software for the D2? Is it the same as the software for the D2V?
> 
> 
> Also, what's the latest beta software for the ARC for the D2? Is it the same as for the D2V?



ARC is V2.2 for all hardware. Available from Anthem's public download page.


Firmware is V1.33 for the D2 and V2.07 for the D2v. Also both available from Anthem's public download page for each model.


There is no newer firmware or ARC software at the moment on the password protected download page.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/16772712
> 
> 
> How much does the picture quality of the player matter if we are using the D2V to do the processing via its video chips?



It never hurts to have the option of doing the work in either place.


In the case of the Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player, I'm currently using it with the Oppo set to output 1080p for everything. That lets me use a few convenience features in the player (e.g., aspect ratio management and zoom control).


I know of a few examples where the D2v does a better job than the Oppo, but frankly the Oppo is so good that I feel quite comfortable using it this way so I can get at the convenience features.

--Bob


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16778669
> 
> 
> 1) Yes
> 
> 2) Not sure of your question
> 
> 3) Dolby Volume is coming in a free firmware update.
> 
> 4) I don't use analog ins, but it wasn't a factor for me.
> 
> 5) Dead silent for me.
> 
> 
> Why do you want to run all the video directly to the Kuro? I have the Kuro 150FD and I run everything through the D2v. Picture is GREAT...



2) Concerns the Room Correction Software. It looks like the Audyssey software is used by multiple vendors (Audyssey, Denon, Integra, Marantz, NAD, Onkyo, LG, SVS, Insignia, Toshiba, IK Multimedia, etc.) and maybe more mature (more runtime, more debug time) than the ARC software being used by a single vendor.


I already use the DEQX software in my 2.1 channel system for speaker and room correction and know what it can do. My 2-channel room has an in-room response of [11Hz to 20KHz] +/- 5dB with the DEQX hardware/software combo.


3) I will read up on the Dolby Volume features. If it offers Commercial Volume suppression, then this bullet point is a non-issue.


I currently run HDMI video directly to my KURO and am quite pleased with it. I let the KURO handle any needed conversions. I consider it a cleaner signal path (fewer connections, switches, cables, configuration, software, etc.).


I would try the video switching in the pre/pro, but would assume Pioneer knows what it is doing in its flagship PRO Elite Monitor and flagship Blu-Ray player, especially when talking between their own product lines (Elite Blu-Ray 09FD). The 09FD already upconverts DVDs to 1080p so the panel only has to scale the DIRECTV HDMI video inputs.


I don't use any analog video inputs, so no need to upscale analog signals.


The only benefit I see using the switcher would be to get OSD overlays.


Thanks for your response.

Tim


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16778669
> 
> 
> 1) Yes
> 
> 2) Not sure of your question
> 
> 3) Dolby Volume is coming in a free firmware update.
> 
> 4) I don't use analog ins, but it wasn't a factor for me.
> 
> 5) Dead silent for me.
> 
> 
> Why do you want to run all the video directly to the Kuro? I have the Kuro 150FD and I run everything through the D2v. Picture is GREAT...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16779188
> 
> 
> You can call me a *WISE GUY* it you want.
> 
> 
> But I would recommend you *NOT buying* a D2v.
> 
> 
> Anyone who bypasses the D2v Video and Uses Analog
> 
> Inputs - DOES NOT WANT a D2v. You are still operating
> 
> in the DARK AGES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I told you - it is OK to call me a *WISE GUY* it you want.



DrHankz,


My Pro Elite Monitor already has HDMI switching in it, so I am able to remove a cable and another HDMI switching circuit from the video signal path.

1080P -> HDMI -> 1080P should be a cleaner (and cheaper) video path than

1080P -> HDMI -> 1080P -> HDMI -> 1080P.


I am currently using the internal decoders inside of my 09FD Blu-Ray which uses 8 top end Woflson DACs. Internal decoding is also supposed to reduce decode problems was well. I would A/B test the audio of a Pre/Pro to see which DAC set is better (I haven't been able to identify what DACs model numbers are being used in the D2V). If the HDMI audio works better decoded in the pre/pro, then I could use the 2nd HDMI output of my 09FD to feed the HDMI audio input of the pre/pro. The room correction software probably justifies the use of the HDMI to eliminate a second ADC and DAC cycle. In the end, it all comes down to which sounds better.


I don't think I am living in the Dark Ages, just trying to determine the best signal paths before plopping down a chunk of change.


Tim


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WestCoastD* /forum/post/16778892
> 
> 
> that's great to know. And your unit operated this clean from initial use (prior to any firmware upgrades)?
> 
> 
> Actually I was inquiring primarily about the AVM-50/AVM-50V, however I really appreciate your input!



The Avm50v has no popping sound changing from source to source. I experience a slight pop during audio format changeover when watching BD from my PS3.


The only time I was worried about the pops is when my a35 HDdvd was playing and I changed the video configuration fron 24fps to 60 fps and a loud POP was heard.


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16779869
> 
> 
> 2) Concerns the Room Correction Software. It looks like the Audyssey software is used by multiple vendors (Audyssey, Denon, Integra, Marantz, NAD, Onkyo, LG, SVS, Insignia, Toshiba, IK Multimedia, etc.) and maybe more mature (more runtime, more debug time) than the ARC software being used by a single vendor.
> 
> 
> I already use the DEQX software in my 2.1 channel system for speaker and room correction and know what it can do. My 2-channel room has an in-room response of [11Hz to 20KHz] +/- 5dB with the DEQX hardware/software combo.
> 
> 
> 3) I will read up on the Dolby Volume features. If it offers Commercial Volume suppression, then this bullet point is a non-issue.
> 
> 
> I currently run HDMI video directly to my KURO and am quite pleased with it. I let the KURO handle any needed conversions. I consider it a cleaner signal path (fewer connections, switches, cables, configuration, software, etc.).
> 
> 
> I would try the video switching in the pre/pro, but would assume Pioneer knows what it is doing in its flagship PRO Elite Monitor and flagship Blu-Ray player, especially when talking between their own product lines (Elite Blu-Ray 09FD). The 09FD already upconverts DVDs to 1080p so the panel only has to scale the DIRECTV HDMI video inputs.
> 
> 
> I don't use any analog video inputs, so no need to upscale analog signals.
> 
> 
> The only benefit I see using the switcher would be to get OSD overlays.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your response.
> 
> Tim



Tim,


Here ia a nice article on ARC from Kal.

http://www.stereophile.com/musicinth...itr/index.html 


I have last years Pioneer top of the line Kuro panel and thought the same as you. All my video was connected directly to the Pio. After doing quite a bit of A/B testing I settled on the Anthem doing the switching and video processing. Give it a try you might just be surprised...


Good luck on your decision.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16779341
> 
> 
> I owned the previous generation, the 9.8, and here are my answers and explanations:
> 
> 
> 1) Yes. But if you are not using the video portion you might want to look at other processors. If your viewing is almost all TV (limited Blu-Ray, DVD, or analog audio), I would get the 9.9.
> 
> 2) ARC is better than the base Audessey available without a professional room calibration. If you never change your room, speakers, etc. then paying for the calibration is an option, but any room changes require a recalibration. The ARC allows the user to make the changes, Audessey requires a professional calibration to match the abilities or ARC. If you can get the license and do the advanced Audessey yourself, then I would say the softwares are very comparable.
> 
> 3) The upcoming Dolby software upgrade might include this??
> 
> 4) This is one thing that Anthem messed up on and I miss it from my previous 9.8. However, I am not sure why you would need this with mostly TV viewing.
> 
> 5) I had a hum with my 9.8 and my balanced amplifiers, no hum with the D2v.
> 
> 
> The main areas (for me) that the D2v beat out the 9.8:
> 
> 
> 1. Better customer service (Onkyo service is bad).
> 
> 2. Analog performance - the D2v is much better than the 9.8s. The Anthem allows you to apply the room corrections, crossovers, etc to the 5.1 external inputs, the Onkyo is a straight pass through (unless this has changed for the 9.9).
> 
> 3. See my answer on the software above.
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike,


1) I have a Pioneer Elite 09FD for CD, DVD and Blu-Ray. It upscales to 1080P. My other source is a DIRECTV HD-DVR box. No analog video sources. I have a separate 2.1 channel room for critical listening and would like my HT room to sound more like my 2.1 channel room (without the same price tag =).


2) My rooms change from time to time, so I know I need to recalibrate accordingly. I already priced out the Audessey pro-kit and license. I configured my 2.1 channel room with the DEQX software, so I am pretty sure I can figure out how to measure and calibrate the pro-kit if needed. Thanks for the comparison on the software packages.


4) 7.1 was to A/B test the Blu-Ray decoding against the pre-pro decoders. With the room correction software, it is probably better to use the HDMI audio outs of the Blu-Ray to the pre-pro.


5) I do not want hum. I use an Equi=Tech 2QR balanced power unit that relys on common-mode rejection (i.e. a 3-prong plug). I read the facs page on the D2V and understand that it is doubly insulated (like some power tools), but all of my doubly insulated power tools have 3 prong plugs unlike the D2V. Maybe I could change the IEC on the D2V and tie the ground to the chassis if I have any hum issues.


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16779975
> 
> 
> Tim,
> 
> 
> Here ia a nice article on ARC from Kal.
> 
> http://www.stereophile.com/musicinth...itr/index.html
> 
> 
> I have last years Pioneer top of the line Kuro panel and thought the same as you. All my video was connected directly to the Pio. After doing quite a bit of A/B testing I settled on the Anthem doing the switching and video processing. Give it a try you might just be surprised...
> 
> 
> Good luck on your decision.



Ken,


Thanks for the article.


It doesn't hurt to have options =). Maybe, I could keep it hooked up both ways. I am sure the wifey would like a single remote solution so she doesn't have to understand audio and video switching.


FWIW, I started out with the 141FD Kuro and a previous generation Pioneer Elite DVD play (59 something). The picture looked nice, but when I hooked both up to the Equi=Tech, the picture and colors really popped. I have since upgraded to the Blu-Ray 09FD and retired the 59 to the master bedroom. The balanced power unit really dialed-in the picture without touching any of the calibration controls. It also helped the DIRECTV picture. I had HD content pre-recorded and it also looked much better after adding the balanced power unit.


The DVD 59(720p)/141FD/Equi=Tech combo had a better picture than my local high end store's setup with their latest Pioneer Blu-Ray(1080p)/141FD combo. I was using the DVD version of their Blu-Ray disc to compare the picture quality. Even using DVD upscaled to 720p, the picture was better than their Blu-Ray disc at 1080p. The only difference I could tell was the use of balanced power unit (cables were probably different too). If you haven't tried one, you should test one out.


Tim


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16779938
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think I am living in the Dark Ages, just trying to determine the best signal paths before plopping down a chunk of change.
> 
> 
> Tim



The best signal path is Digital NOT ANALOG.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16779938
> 
> 
> I am currently using the internal decoders inside of my 09FD Blu-Ray which uses 8 top end Woflson DACs.
> 
> 
> Tim



Wow - TOP END Woflson DACs means they are using the $3 chip instead of the $0.31 DAC


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16778458
> 
> 
> D2V Owners,
> 
> 
> I am looking for an XLR based Pre/Pro and have the Integra 9.9 and Anthem D2V on my short list. Since I bypass the Pre/Pro for Video and go straight to my Kuro 141FD monitor, I am mostly interested in audio performance. I would appreciate your feedback on the following questions to help expedite my purchase decision.
> 
> 
> 1) Would you buy the D2V again?
> 
> 2) Which software is better for audio?
> 
> 3) The Audyssey software has TV Commercial Detection and keeps the commercial audio from blasting. This is a fantastic feature since we use our HT mostly for TV. Does the ARC software have this feature?
> 
> 4) The D2V only has 5.1 analog in versus 7.1 analog ins.
> 
> 5) The D2V has a 2-prong plug where the Integra has a 3 prong plug (no common mode rejection from balanced power units).
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> 
> Tim



The 9.9 is a great deal for


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16780347
> 
> 
> So based on your questions (and subsequent questions), I definitely think the 9.9 is what you should get, and you'll love it!



Three Cheers for *AbMagFab* and Three Anthem Mascots







_







_


----------



## Warpdrv

So inquiring minds want to know..... How much is the Audyssey pro kit running these days.....?


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16780210
> 
> 
> Wow - TOP END Woflson DACs means they are using the $3 chip instead of the $0.31 DAC



What part numbers does the D2V use ???


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16781098
> 
> 
> So inquiring minds want to know..... How much is the Audyssey pro kit running these days.....?



Hi Warpdrv,


I was getting quotes of @ $2.5K for both the hardware and pro software. From the article that Ken posted, it appears that the Audyssey software slightly out-performed the ARC software in side-by-side comparisons in the same venue. Since the article was published, I am sure both software solutions have advanced.


Tim


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16780347
> 
> 
> The 9.9 is a great deal for


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16779733
> 
> 
> It never hurts to have the option of doing the work in either place.
> 
> 
> In the case of the Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player, I'm currently using it with the Oppo set to output 1080p for everything. That lets me use a few convenience features in the player (e.g., aspect ratio management and zoom control).
> 
> 
> I know of a few examples where the D2v does a better job than the Oppo, but frankly the Oppo is so good that I feel quite comfortable using it this way so I can get at the convenience features.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob for the replies.


Do you keep the Oppo at 1080p24 for everything including DVDs, or do you use 1080p60 for DVDs?


Still waiting for some reviews of the Denon 2010CI to decide between it and the Oppo. RS-232 is a must for me.


I can't wait until I replace my Samsung BD-P1400.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16781432
> 
> 
> Hi Warpdrv,
> 
> 
> I was getting quotes of @ $2.5K for both the hardware and pro software. From the article that Ken posted, it appears that the Audyssey software slightly out-performed the ARC software in side-by-side comparisons in the same venue. Since the article was published, I am sure both software solutions have advanced.
> 
> 
> Tim



HOLY SPIT... I had no idea that it was that expensive... I thought it was only a few hundred $$'s add on...


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/16782522
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob for the replies.
> 
> 
> Do you keep the Oppo at 1080p24 for everything including DVDs, or do you use 1080p60 for DVDs?
> 
> 
> Still waiting for some reviews of the Denon 2010CI to decide between it and the Oppo. RS-232 is a must for me.
> 
> 
> I can't wait until I replace my Samsung BD-P1400.



I use 1080p/24 = Auto and DVD/24 = OFF in the Oppo.


My display doesn't support /24 input. These settings mean the Oppo automatically sends 1080p/24 for Blu-Ray movies and 1080p/60 for Blu-Ray live concert style discs (i.e., what comes off the disc in both cases) and 1080p/60 for all SD-DVDs. The D2v then converts Blu-Ray movies to /60 for my display. There's no point in having the Oppo convert SD-DVDs to /24 since the D2v would just have to return them to /60 for my display anyway.


There's no particularly good reason why I don't have the Oppo do the conversion of 1080p/24 to 1080p/60 for Blu-Ray movies as well except that leaving the /24 in place means I get some additional HDMI handshakes (for the Beta testing I'm doing for Oppo as well as testing how the D2v handles that as input).

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16782682
> 
> 
> HOLY SPIT... I had no idea that it was that expensive... I thought it was only a few hundred $$'s add on...
> 
> 
> Thanks



I think that price might include the cost of the 9.9, plus the hardware and license??


----------



## uppacreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16779733
> 
> 
> In the case of the Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player, I'm currently using it with the Oppo set to output 1080p for everything. That lets me use a few convenience features in the player (e.g., aspect ratio management and zoom control).
> 
> 
> I know of a few examples where the D2v does a better job than the Oppo, but frankly the Oppo is so good that I feel quite comfortable using it this way so I can get at the convenience features.
> 
> --Bob



Extremely interesting....for existing D2 owners, the benefit of the new VP in the D2v is really moot if one is using the BDP-83 and tapping into the power of its AB VRS VP. Moreover, I gather if one's display also has a capable CMS, then no need to "upgrade" from D2 to D2v for video purposes....just wait for the D3 or equivalent.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16782682
> 
> 
> HOLY SPIT... I had no idea that it was that expensive... I thought it was only a few hundred $$'s add on...
> 
> 
> Thanks



Warpdrv,

Sorry for the confusion. That included the DHC 9.9, Audussey pro-kit and license.

Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uppacreek* /forum/post/16783135
> 
> 
> Extremely interesting....for existing D2 owners, the benefit of the new VP in the D2v is really moot if one is using the BDP-83 and tapping into the power of its AB VRS VP. Moreover, I gather if one's display also has a capable CMS, then no need to "upgrade" from D2 to D2v for video purposes....just wait for the D3 or equivalent.



If that's the only player you use, and you have no other video sources (e.g., cable or satellite TV) and if your display can not benefit from the extra video processing bit depth in the D2v (36 bit, which can be output as 36 bit to a Deep Color display, vs. 30 bit which can be output as only up to 24 bit in the D2) then perhaps so. In my case, I would never want to revert back to the older video processor even though I am using the Oppo as my primary player.


And of course that doesn't even consider the other stuff in the D2v such as additional HDMI sockets, and improved audio processing.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16781432
> 
> 
> Hi Warpdrv,
> 
> 
> I was getting quotes of @ $2.5K for both the hardware and pro software. From the article that Ken posted, it appears that the Audyssey software slightly out-performed the ARC software in side-by-side comparisons in the same venue. Since the article was published, I am sure both software solutions have advanced.
> 
> 
> Tim





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16783261
> 
> 
> Warpdrv,
> 
> Sorry for the confusion. That included the DHC 9.9, Audussey pro-kit and license.
> 
> Tim



ok that sounds much better, now I wonder what it costs to

to get decent customer service out of Onkyo/Integra hmmmm


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16781503
> 
> 
> Hi AbMagFan,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the informative feedback. The cartridge on my 2 channel system is in the same price range as these pre/pros. Being such, the cost delta between these 2 units is not an issue for me.
> 
> 
> FWIW, I don't drink, so $200 on wine doesn't do anything for me, even though I have spent thousands of dollars on it for others who do enjoy it.
> 
> 
> I already have the picture quality handled with my existing configuration. FWIW, the Pro Elite 141FD Monitor exposes the technician level calibration screens to the user.
> 
> 
> I am mainly trying to determine the best sound quality and audio features including software functionality. I have already heard both units, but not in the same venue with the same equipment so it is very hard to compare them in this fashion (different room, speakers, amps, etc.). I have friends with higher end pre/pros but they all have hardware and coddec issues. I would like to avoid these problems if possible.
> 
> 
> Tim



What speakers do you have?


In terms of sound, there's no question the D2v is superior. The internal components, the 192/24 upconversion of everything, ARC, etc., all make it superior. Is it $5K superior? Up to you.


In terms of video, multiple people have mentioned to you that the Kuro is not the ideal place to do be doing the video switching, with lots of reasons mentioned. So while you continue to dismiss the VP of the D2v, I think you might be making a mistake here. And if you include VP, the D2v is light years ahead of the 9.9.


In terms of support, there's not even a comparison. Onkyo has horrible support for the first 12 months, and then completely abandons products within 12 months, with no future firmware updates. I would never buy an Onkyo again except for a tertiary room or some general whole-house background audio speakers.


To be honest, I'm not sure how we're getting into a comparison of the Onkyo 9.9 with the D2v. It's sort of like comparing a Ford with a Lexus - they both drive and have similar general features, but they're not in the same league.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16787018
> 
> 
> To be honest, I'm not sure how we're getting into a comparison of the Onkyo 9.9 with the D2v. It's sort of like comparing a Ford with a Lexus - they both drive and have similar general features, but they're not in the same league.




Hehehe as much as I have seen enough car analogies, I like this one....


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16787018
> 
> 
> What speakers do you have?
> 
> 
> In terms of sound, there's no question the D2v is superior. The internal components, the 192/24 upconversion of everything, ARC, etc., all make it superior. Is it $5K superior? Up to you.
> 
> 
> In terms of video, multiple people have mentioned to you that the Kuro is not the ideal place to do be doing the video switching, with lots of reasons mentioned. So while you continue to dismiss the VP of the D2v, I think you might be making a mistake here. And if you include VP, the D2v is light years ahead of the 9.9.
> 
> 
> In terms of support, there's not even a comparison. Onkyo has horrible support for the first 12 months, and then completely abandons products within 12 months, with no future firmware updates. I would never buy an Onkyo again except for a tertiary room or some general whole-house background audio speakers.
> 
> 
> To be honest, I'm not sure how we're getting into a comparison of the Onkyo 9.9 with the D2v. It's sort of like comparing a Ford with a Lexus - they both drive and have similar general features, but they're not in the same league.



AbMagFab,


I have Magnepan 3.6's in my HT room and Magnepan 20.1's in my 2-channel room. I posted 2 of my systems on the "about me" tab if you check my forum signature link. I am putting together a 3rd system, but haven't posted that one. I tend to put more money into my 2.1 channel system than I do my HT system. My 2 channel is all balanced (except for the single-ended turntable) - Class A gear. I am trying to get my HT room up to all HDMI and XLR connections.


If you consider street prices, the delta is a lot less than $5K (more like $2.5K). I also just stumbled across the Denon pre/pro that is probably closer in line with the D2V when paired with the Pro calibration kit. I am reading through that thread now.


Other than 1 remote convenience, what does the D2V offer with video switching over the Pro Elite 141FD when accepting a 1080P HDMI feed? My picture quality is already better than the local high end HT store that had theirs professionally calibrated by Pioneer technicians. I am not against using it, I just can't see it giving me a better picture than what I already have. I can see it helping the DIRECTV HDMI feed, but I question if it can better the Blu-Ray 1080p feed that already has deep color support.


I have never owned Onkyo, Integra or Anthem products and don't have any pre-conceived biases towards or against these 3 companies (other than they are not made in the USA by US citizens). I know Anthem has some distant relations with Sonic Frontiers, but I don't know if any of the Sonic Frontiers talent made it into the Anthem lines. In short, I am open to the best product at this point without paying $50K for a pre/pro.


As for comparisons, these two XLR based pre/pros were recommended to me, so I am trying to do my homework before I plop down the cash. I usually narrow my short list to 3 items, audition all 3 and then pull the trigger on one of them.


Sincerely,

Tim


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16787285
> 
> 
> AbMagFab,
> 
> 
> I have Magnepan 3.6's in my HT room and Magnepan 20.1's in my 2-channel room. I posted 2 of my systems on the "about me" tab if you check my forum signature link. I am putting together a 3rd system, but haven't posted that one. I tend to put more money into my 2.1 channel system than I do my HT system. My 2 channel is all balanced (except for the single-ended turntable) - Class A gear. I am trying to get my HT room up to all HDMI and XLR connections.
> 
> 
> If you consider street prices, the delta is a lot less than $5K (more like $2.5K). I also just stumbled across the Denon pre/pro that is probably closer in line with the D2V when paired with the Pro calibration kit. I am reading through that thread now.
> 
> 
> Other than 1 remote convenience, what does the D2V offer with video switching over the Pro Elite 141FD when accepting a 1080P HDMI feed? My picture quality is already better than the local high end HT store that had theirs professionally calibrated by Pioneer technicians. I am not against using it, I just can't see it giving me a better picture than what I already have. I can see it helping the DIRECTV HDMI feed, but I question if it can better the Blu-Ray 1080p feed that already has deep color support.
> 
> 
> I have never owned Onkyo, Integra or Anthem products and don't have any pre-conceived biases towards or against these 3 companies (other than they are not made in the USA by US citizens). I know Anthem has some distant relations with Sonic Frontiers, but I don't know if any of the Sonic Frontiers talent made it into the Anthem lines. In short, I am open to the best product at this point without paying $50K for a pre/pro.
> 
> 
> As for comparisons, these to XLR based pre/pros were recommended to me, so I am trying to do my homework before I plop down the cash. I usually narrow my short list to 3 items, audition all 3 and then pull the trigger on one of them.
> 
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Tim



The 9.9 is around ~$800 street, and the D2v is around ~$6K street... not sure where you get a $2.5K delta?


Yes, the Denon AVP1 is in the same league as the D2v, if you also purchase the Audyssey Pro kit.


For Video, see all the previous post responses to yours. One simply practical reason is running multiple HDMI cables to the TV versus just one (or two for backup) HDMI cable to the TV. And having to pull a new cable to the TV for each new component you run (and/or pre-running way too many HDMI cables to the TV up front).


The VP in the D2v is also overall superior to the Kuro, but whether that matters to you or not, for your components, is specific to you and your configuration.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16787318
> 
> 
> The 9.9 is around ~$800 street, and the D2v is around ~$6K street... not sure where you get a $2.5K delta?
> 
> 
> Yes, the Denon AVP1 is in the same league as the D2v, if you also purchase the Audyssey Pro kit.
> 
> 
> For Video, see all the previous post responses to yours. One simply practical reason is running multiple HDMI cables to the TV versus just one (or two for backup) HDMI cable to the TV. And having to pull a new cable to the TV for each new component you run (and/or pre-running way too many HDMI cables to the TV up front).
> 
> 
> The VP in the D2v is also overall superior to the Kuro, but whether that matters to you or not, for your components, is specific to you and your configuration.



I had worse prices on the 9.9 and better prices on the D2V than your quotes.


The wires are already run so this is a non-issue for me.


I would love to see a better picture than what I am already getting with the Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD and the Pro Elite 141FD combo. I haven't seen a better picture elsewhere yet. I was holding out for a SED panel, but lawsuits kept them hitting the shelves so I boutht the 141FD.


Tim


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Why is the D2 still on the Anthem Web site?


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/16787721
> 
> 
> Why is the D2 still on the Anthem Web site?



firmware updates.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/16787721
> 
> 
> Why is the D2 still on the Anthem Web site?



The D1 was on the front page for many years after it was available, even now it is still visable as an archive. One of the reasons is the differernce in software versions and to be honest I hope the D2 stays there for a while longer as it could show that it is still in Anthem's thoughts in terms of software, if not hardware changes. I know that some people are looking for D2 fixes.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16787444
> 
> 
> I had worse prices on the 9.9 and better prices on the D2V than your quotes.
> 
> 
> The wires are already run so this is a non-issue for me.
> 
> 
> I would love to see a better picture than what I am already getting with the Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD and the Pro Elite 141FD combo. I haven't seen a better picture elsewhere yet. I was holding out for a SED panel, but lawsuits kept them hitting the shelves so I boutht the 141FD.
> 
> 
> Tim



If you're getting anything close to $4K for the D2v (not D2), then buy as many as you can and audiogon them for $5K+. You can keep one for yourself for free.


List for the D2v is like $7500, so if you're getting more than 20% off (with warrantee from an authorized dealer), that's an amazing deal and one you should jump on immediately. And post the dealer here so others can buy.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16787444
> 
> 
> I had worse prices on the 9.9 and better prices on the D2V than your quotes.
> 
> 
> The wires are already run so this is a non-issue for me.
> 
> 
> I would love to see a better picture than what I am already getting with the Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD and the Pro Elite 141FD combo. I haven't seen a better picture elsewhere yet. I was holding out for a SED panel, but lawsuits kept them hitting the shelves so I boutht the 141FD.
> 
> 
> Tim



Dear Mr. Audio Tim


You came on here to explore the Anthem products. Your initial comments

were that AUDIO was your number ONE priority. By running HDMI to your

Display - you have once again put your AUDIO experience back in the

20th Century. Might as well use ANALOG AUDIO.


HDMI was designed for two reasons. (1) Hi-def Video and (2) Lossless Hi-Def Audio.


For a person interested in the BEST AUDIO - you just DISABLED IT.


The D2v is NOT just a HDMI Switcher - It Processes both the Hi-Def Video

and Hi-Def Audio.


----------



## aramb

I ordered my AVM50v today. My dealer just called to inform me that both the AVM50v and D2v are backordered from Anthem with a minimum of two weeks, maybe as much as six weeks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/16789104
> 
> 
> I ordered my AVM50v today. My dealer just called to inform me that both the AVM50v and D2v are backordered from Anthem with a minimum of two weeks, maybe as much as six weeks.



6-8 weeks has been the norm in the past.


If you get yours in 2 weeks - you can celebrate


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16789142
> 
> 
> 6-8 weeks has been the norm in the past.
> 
> 
> If you get yours in 2 weeks - you can celebrate



Six to eight weeks!!! Holy Crap... it may be obsolete by then!


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16788568
> 
> 
> Dear Mr. Audio Tim
> 
> 
> ... By running HDMI to your
> 
> Display - you have once again put your AUDIO experience back in the
> 
> 20th Century. Might as well use ANALOG AUDIO.
> 
> 
> ....



Please let me clarify. The CD/Blu-Ray BDP-09FD has 2 HDMI outputs as well as 7.1 analog out. It handles all of the current coddecs and also has deep color support. (It also has online firmware updates via RJ45/CAT6 via the remote control - no laptop needed, or via an ISO image burnt to CD - laptop required). One HDMI goes straight to the MONITOR (digital video only). Since the 141FD is a MONITOR, it has no amplifiers, nor speakers.


I then use the coddecs in the BDP-09FD to decode audio and send the analog straight to the amplifiers with just a pre-amp gain control in the analog signal path.


No doubt your audio is also analog after the decoder in the D2V and before it gets sent to your amplifiers unless you are using a system like Meridian or TacT instead of the D2V. Are you using digital amplifiers ???


Sorry for the confusion and yes I am mainly concerned about Audio quality, but would entertain HDMI video switching if is on par or bests what I already have in picture quality.


Sincerely,

Tim


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16788568
> 
> 
> Dear Mr. Audio Tim
> 
> 
> You came on here to explore the Anthem products. Your initial comments
> 
> were that AUDIO was your number ONE priority. By running HDMI to your
> 
> Display - you have once again put your AUDIO experience back in the
> 
> 20th Century. Might as well use ANALOG AUDIO.
> 
> 
> HDMI was designed for two reasons. (1) Hi-def Video and (2) Lossless Hi-Def Audio.
> 
> 
> For a person interested in the BEST AUDIO - you just DISABLED IT.
> 
> 
> The D2v is NOT just a HDMI Switcher - It Processes both the Hi-Def Video
> 
> and Hi-Def Audio.



You also forget to mention that all the current audio room correction (Arc or Audissey) works in the digital domain. So if you are using analog audio there would be at least inserting an ADC/DAC pair in the audio path.


And if you are plugging the HDMI to your video first there would be no way to use one of the newer lossless audio format as SPDIF does not have enough bandwidth.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16789229
> 
> 
> Please let me clarify. The CD/Blu-Ray BDP-09FD has 2 HDMI outputs as well as 7.1 analog out. It handles all of the current coddecs and also has deep color support. (It also has online firmware updates via RJ45/CAT6 via the remote control - no laptop needed, or via an ISO image burnt to CD - laptop required). One HDMI goes straight to the MONITOR (digital video only). Since the 141FD is a MONITOR, it has no amplifiers, nor speakers.
> 
> 
> I then use the coddecs in the BDP-09FD to decode audio and send the analog straight to the amplifiers with just a pre-amp gain control in the analog signal path.
> 
> 
> No doubt your audio is also analog after the decoder in the D2V and before it gets sent to your amplifiers unless you are using a system like Meridian or TacT instead of the D2V. Are you using digital amplifiers ???
> 
> 
> Sorry for the confusion and yes I am mainly concerned about Audio quality, but would entertain HDMI video switching if is on par or bests what I already have in picture quality.
> 
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Tim



HDMI video switching is in the digital domain. It is very unlikely that you would lose video quality over your current setup routing the video through the D2V. But if you have the ability to send identical signals out of both your 09FD's HDMI ports at the same time there doesn't seem like there would be a downside. Try both and see which you like best.


By using an HDMI connection for audio you eliminate a raft of problems -- redigitizing to gain room processing (like the external Audyssey does) and you add ability to get bass management and other equalization features superior than your 09FD etc., support soon for Dolby Volume and others I am sure.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16788386
> 
> 
> List for the D2v is like $7500, so if you're getting more than 20% off (with warrantee from an authorized dealer), that's an amazing deal and one you should jump on immediately. And post the dealer here so others can buy.



30% off is a good deal. Nobody should be paying more. It's not that hard.....


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16789142
> 
> 
> 6-8 weeks has been the norm in the past.
> 
> 
> If you get yours in 2 weeks - you can celebrate



I ordered mine 9 weeks ago yesterday. It was suppose to be build the first part of this week and shipped Mon or Tues. With a week shipping time that would put it here in 10 weeks (but I'm not holding my breath).


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/16789477
> 
> 
> You also forget to mention that all the current audio room correction (Arc or Audissey) works in the digital domain. So if you are using analog audio there would be at least inserting an ADC/DAC pair in the audio path.
> 
> 
> And if you are plugging the HDMI to your video first there would be no way to use one of the newer lossless audio format as SPDIF does not have enough bandwidth.



Agree on your first point, an extra ADC is not desired.


For the 2nd point, my source has 2 HDMI outputs. One for audio and one for video so the 2nd point is mute in this configuration. The audio HDMI doesn't go to the MONITOR.


Points taken.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16789626
> 
> 
> HDMI video switching is in the digital domain. It is very unlikely that you would lose video quality over your current setup routing the video through the D2V. But if you have the ability to send identical signals out of both your 09FD's HDMI ports at the same time there doesn't seem like there would be a downside. Try both and see which you like best.
> 
> 
> By using an HDMI connection for audio you eliminate a raft of problems -- redigitizing to gain room processing (like the external Audyssey does) and you add ability to get bass management and other equalization features superior than your 09FD etc., support soon for Dolby Volume and others I am sure.



Both HDMI outs can be used simultaneously on the 09FD.


Aggreed.


Good, Cheap, Fast - Pick any 2 =)


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16780011
> 
> 
> 5) I do not want hum. I use an Equi=Tech 2QR balanced power unit that relys on common-mode rejection (i.e. a 3-prong plug). I read the facs page on the D2V and understand that it is doubly insulated (like some power tools), but all of my doubly insulated power tools have 3 prong plugs unlike the D2V. Maybe I could change the IEC on the D2V and tie the ground to the chassis if I have any hum issues.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim



Tim, don't worry, the Anthem won't cause hum issues. I've had an Equitech 2Q and now have a 7.5Q (which is basically 4 2Qs in one chassis). It's a fairly complex system with a lot of equipment b/c I've integrated my 2channel with the ht equipment (by using a ht bypass for my 2 channel preamp). Despite the complexity there are no hum issues. I'm a 2-channel guy first and foremost (ATC anniversary 100 mains) and did try the Anthem for 2 channel. It's very good. I like my dedicated preamp better for various reasons but the Anthem is very good.


I agree with a couple of the other posters though. If you're not using the video capability of the Anthem then it doesn't really make sense to buy it.


If your picture with dvd looks better than your dealer's pic with bluray then their system is setup improperly.


The balanced power may improve your picture if there was a picture issue related to powerline interference before using balanced power.


I understand that the dacs in the Pioneer unit are supposed to be good. I've listened to it and it's pretty decent. However, it's not even close to the performance you'll get from running hdmi into the Anthem and using ARC (for movies. I don't use it for 2 channel). That's coming from a guy with a dedicated Rives-designed listening room and lots of expensive equipment too (not bragging, just letting you know I'm a 2 channel fanatic too).


----------



## pjpoon

Sorry to switch gears but I have noticed with several of my bluray discs encoded with DTS MA 7.1 that I will get random audio dropouts when the Oppo is bitstreaming to the Anthem. The dropouts are random in length and position and not repeatable in the sense that if you go back to the point of the initial dropout, it will play back fine. The discs I've noted this on are Hairspray, Sleeping Beauty, Prince Caspian. Oppo support has suggested it is a receiver firmware issue or a cable issue. Swapping out a new HDMI cable from Oppo did not change things. There seem to be no dropouts when the Oppo is set to LPCM. On occasion I think I've noticed the front panel of the D2v flicker when the sound drop out occurred but this has not been consistent. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this. I've emailed Anthem about this but no response yet.


----------



## emailtim




The Bogg said:


> ... However, it's not even close to the performance you'll get from running hdmi into the Anthem and using ARC (for movies. I don't use it for 2 channel)...QUOTE]
> 
> 
> Thank you for a helpful response. I am adding an addition and am looking into one of the in-wall hard-wried Equi-Tech units.
> 
> 
> How would you rate decoders, DAC and analog section without the ARC software for 2-channel?
> 
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Tim


----------



## The Bogg




emailtim;16791176
How would you rate decoders said:


> I can't say I spent a lot of time comparing the dac in the Anthem vs my transport/dac combo but my limited experience with the Anthem for 2 channel even without the ARC was positive. The Anthem is transparent enough for all but the fussiest people imho. If I understand your posts, you're not looking to replace your 2 channel preamp, just looking for something for your ht room. There may be more expensive ssps out there but I'm not sure you'll get much better than the Anthem. I'm not saying that as a fanboy, I could've bought any of the competing units but chose the Anthem b/c of it's overall quality and of course the super service.
> 
> 
> What ARC adds to the Anthem for so little money is just unbelievable. I'm going to try it for 2 channel when I get time but it's a no-brainer for movies.


----------



## mmiles

9.9 street price for $800???????????????????????


i think you mean the 9.8 and used or B-Stock. they normally go for $850 - $1000


bogg better go back home to the big buck forum!


----------



## emailtim

Just saw you HT build thread. Nice venue and equipment.


Tim


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmiles* /forum/post/16793614
> 
> 
> bogg better go back home to the big buck forum!



lol. I spend more time at the "other" site. Much less arguing and thread-jacking...


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmiles* /forum/post/16793614
> 
> 
> 9.9 street price for $800???????????????????????
> 
> 
> i think you mean the 9.8 and used or B-Stock. they normally go for $850 - $1000



I said ~$800 for the 9.9, and yes, it's everywhere for that price. List is $999, so ~$800 is extremely easy for such a mainstream consumer product like Onkyo.


I still don't believe the ~$4K for the D2v though...


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16795935
> 
> 
> I said ~$800 for the 9.9, and yes, it's everywhere for that price. List is $999, so ~$800 is extremely easy for such a mainstream consumer product like Onkyo.
> 
> 
> I still don't believe the ~$4K for the D2v though...



MSRP for the DHC 9.9 is $2K US + pro kit and license. I have never seen prices @ $800, even on the web for it.


Also, where did you get a price of $4K for D2V?


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16795976
> 
> 
> MSRP for the DHC 9.9 is $2K US + pro kit and license. I have never seen prices @ $800, even on the web for it.
> 
> 
> Also, where did you get a price of $4K for D2V?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim



Sorry - I typo'd it multiple times... I meant $*1*800!


$4K - you said they were close in price. Anything more than 4K for the D2v wouldn't be close in price.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16796051
> 
> 
> The 9.9 is around ~$800 street, and the D2v is around ~$6K street... not sure where you get a $2.5K delta?.



Clarification. The $2.5K delta comes by adding $2.5K (9.9 + pro kit and license) to $2.5K delta. That is $5K, not $4K.


Tim


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16796111
> 
> 
> Clarification. The $2.5K delta comes by adding $2.5K (9.9 + pro kit and license) to $2.5K delta. That is $5K, not $4K.
> 
> 
> Tim



Last I checked, the Audyssey Pro kit was only about $500 (no typo here). At least that's what my dealer said it was when he was going to give me one for free if I purchased the Denon AVP1 (I ended up with the D2v).


----------



## wilsonrob

I ordered my AVM50V on June 13th and got an "Its here" message from my dealer on June 19th so less than a week. The D2V may be backordered but my experience says that there are no such issues with teh AVM 50V


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wilsonrob* /forum/post/16796624
> 
> 
> I ordered my AVM50V on June 13th and got an "Its here" message from my dealer on June 19th so less than a week. The D2V may be backordered but my experience says that there are no such issues with teh AVM 50V



The dealer called me back today after meeting with the Anthem rep. The rep says they are pretty much caught up and the there is currently only a 15 day backlog on AVM50v orders. Sounds like you got lucky! I can't wait for mine to show up!


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjpoon* /forum/post/16791109
> 
> 
> Sorry to switch gears but I have noticed with several of my bluray discs encoded with DTS MA 7.1 that I will get random audio dropouts when the Oppo is bitstreaming to the Anthem. The dropouts are random in length and position and not repeatable in the sense that if you go back to the point of the initial dropout, it will play back fine. The discs I've noted this on are Hairspray, Sleeping Beauty, Prince Caspian. Oppo support has suggested it is a receiver firmware issue or a cable issue. Swapping out a new HDMI cable from Oppo did not change things. There seem to be no dropouts when the Oppo is set to LPCM. On occasion I think I've noticed the front panel of the D2v flicker when the sound drop out occurred but this has not been consistent. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this. I've emailed Anthem about this but no response yet.



Not exactly answering your question here, but have you noticed any sound quality differences between bitstream vs. LPCM with the Oppo?


----------



## facke02

Today my system developed a hum, yeah appears to be a ground loop from my cable. the wife swares it started just a few hours ago. No changes to my system in weeks. I know it's the cable because it goes away when I disconnect the cable from the wall.


Any thoughts besides calling the cable company?


Thanks


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16799066
> 
> 
> Today my system developed a hum, yeah appears to be a ground loop from my cable. the wife swares it started just a few hours ago. No changes to my system in weeks. I know it's the cable because it goes away when I disconnect the cable from the wall.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts besides calling the cable company?
> 
> 
> Thanks



If it is the 75 Ohm coax Cable TV line, you can run it though some of the surge protectors/power conditioners that have the 75 Ohm coax filters. These usually work for CableTV but not for Satellite.


Try unplugging the 75 Ohm coax cable and then just touch the ground shield of the coax cable to the female ground threads (don't touch the center tap). If the hum goes in and out, then you might also want to try the following if you don't have filter handy.


Try grounding the shielded end of the 75Ohm coax to a higher potential ground to bleed off some of the 60Hz hum. This method can eliminate the majority of the hum but will not completely eliminate it.


HTH,

Tim


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16799145
> 
> 
> If it is the 75 Ohm coax Cable TV line, you can run it though some of the surge protectors/power conditioners that have the 75 Ohm coax filters. These usually work for CableTV but not for Satellite.
> 
> 
> Try unplugging the 75 Ohm coax cable and then just touch the ground shield of the coax cable to the female ground threads (don't touch the center tap). If the hum goes in and out, then you might also want to try the following if you don't have filter handy.
> 
> 
> Try grounding the shielded end of the 75Ohm coax to a higher potential ground to bleed off some of the 60Hz hum. This method can eliminate the majority of the hum but will not completely eliminate it.
> 
> 
> HTH,
> 
> Tim



Yes, it's cable... I'll try your recommendations and see what happens. The strange thing is it just started a couple of hours ago.


Ken


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16799066
> 
> 
> Today my system developed a hum, yeah appears to be a ground loop from my cable. the wife swares it started just a few hours ago. No changes to my system in weeks. I know it's the cable because it goes away when I disconnect the cable from the wall.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts besides calling the cable company?
> 
> 
> Thanks


*You can buy a CATV Isolator* Also Called CATV Filter.


Radio Shack use to carry them but not any more.


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16799145
> 
> 
> Try unplugging the 75 Ohm coax cable and then just touch the ground shield of the coax cable to the female ground threads (don't touch the center tap). If the hum goes in and out, then you might also want to try the following if you don't have filter handy.
> 
> 
> HTH,
> 
> Tim



It hums when the ground threads are touched to the cable box.


Ken


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16799194
> 
> *You can buy a CATV Isolator* Also Called CATV Filter.
> 
> 
> Radio Shack use to carry them but not any more.



Thanks... I'll give one of these a try.


Ken


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16799183
> 
> 
> ...The strange thing is it just started a couple of hours ago.
> 
> 
> Ken



Ken, has anything else changed in the cable plant in your house? Any other TV/Cable boxes systems in other rooms change (kids room, game boxes, etc)?


Tim


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/16799328
> 
> 
> Ken, has anything else changed in the cable plant in your house? Any other TV/Cable boxes systems in other rooms change (kids room, game boxes, etc)?
> 
> 
> Tim



Tim, no nothing has changed with the cable, boxes, system, TV or anthing inside the house. The only thing cable related is they came out the other day and marked the yard for utility runs. I've called them and have an appointment for Monday afternoon.


Ken


----------



## pjpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/16798235
> 
> 
> Not exactly answering your question here, but have you noticed any sound quality differences between bitstream vs. LPCM with the Oppo?



No, I have not noticed a difference in sound quality between bitstream and LPCM


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New D2v / AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.07b Now Up on Password Protected Download Page!*


Just in time for the weekend, new "test" firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v has now appeared on Anthem's password protected download page. Since "official" V2.07 is fairly new, I suspect there are a number of folks out there still on V2.06. So for ease of reference here are the change notes for changes since V2.06:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Video processor code base updates.
> 
> 
> 2. Audio DSP code base update.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for Sony as second monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for popping that began in v2.06 with Toshiba XA2 as source.
> 
> 
> 2. New VXP video processor code.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for a DSP problem that affected the AVM 50v with 44.1 kHz input.



Now I don't know for sure what "code base update" really means, but typically this language would be used for some significant cleanups in the software -- more than just a few specific bug fixes -- but not necessarily including any new features. At a guess, Anthem is moving towards the Dolby Volume release and may want to get a version out that includes fixes found during that development, but without actually turning that feature on yet.


As always, "test" software is not finished software and may come with some unpleasant surprises. If you are not comfortable with that prospect, wait until the "test" software eventually becomes "official". Be sure you have a copy of "official" V2.07 (from Anthem's public download page) that you can re-install if necessary.


ETA: One unusual thing about this release is that the firmware installers are dated June 26, rather than today or yesterday. This means Anthem sat on this release for 2 weeks -- possibly for some internal testing, possibly to get copies to folks with specific problems to see if the problems were really fixed. Or I suppose it's possible that Nick just got back from vacation!









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16799245
> 
> 
> It hums when the ground threads are touched to the cable box.
> 
> 
> Ken



You have a classic case of cable TV related "ground loop". Garbage is entering your system along the shield of the cable TV feed wire. It is hopping from device to device in your system along the shields of the cables connecting them, and eventually it is exiting to ground -- usually through the 3rd pin of a 3 prong power plug. Along the way it plays havoc with your electronics.


Cable TV lines pick up all sorts of garbage along the poles going to your house, and all of that is supposed to be sent to ground at the box where the wire enters your house. This is done by connecting the shield of the feed wire to ground at that box.


The root cause of the problem is that your cable feed is not properly grounded where it enters your building, or that the wires in the walls between there and your cable TV box have had a failure of their shield connection (so that power line interference they pick up while in the walls can't exit back to that ground at the building entry point).


If you have just changed any of your internal cable TV wiring, that may be the cause. Make sure the coax plugs are screwed tight into the sockets. Or your new cable may be faulty -- its shield not correctly connected to the barrel of the coax plug.


But it is just as likely that the cable TV people came to service some other customer and in the process screwed up the grounding of your cable TV feed.


The best fix for this is to get the grounding fixed in the first place. Check where the cable TV comes into your building and see if there is an obvious ground wire from that box that might have gotten dislodged or rusty at the connection points.


Proper grounding also provides protection against surges that might be present on that cable TV shield -- as from lightning strikes.


But you can also use a "ground blocker". These are cheap gadgets that fit between the end of the cable TV feed wire and the back of your cable TV box. They consist of a no-gain transformer that has no direct electrical connection between the cable shield on one side to the other, so that whatever garbage is on the cable shield can't hop across the blocker into your cable TV box. Since they are simple (read "cheap") they tend to weaken some frequencies more than others, so with one of these in place you may lose some weak TV channels. That's another reason why getting the grounding fixed is the better solution.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjpoon* /forum/post/16791109
> 
> 
> Sorry to switch gears but I have noticed with several of my bluray discs encoded with DTS MA 7.1 that I will get random audio dropouts when the Oppo is bitstreaming to the Anthem. The dropouts are random in length and position and not repeatable in the sense that if you go back to the point of the initial dropout, it will play back fine. The discs I've noted this on are Hairspray, Sleeping Beauty, Prince Caspian. Oppo support has suggested it is a receiver firmware issue or a cable issue. Swapping out a new HDMI cable from Oppo did not change things. There seem to be no dropouts when the Oppo is set to LPCM. On occasion I think I've noticed the front panel of the D2v flicker when the sound drop out occurred but this has not been consistent. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this. I've emailed Anthem about this but no response yet.



Which version of the Oppo firmware are you using? There is a "public beta" version available on their support page for the BDP-83. If you are not already using that I suggest you switch to that. It includes significant bug fixes.


I have been beta testing the Oppo with my D2v, and although nothing is ever "simple" with HDMI, I think it highly likely that the dropouts you are experiencing when using HDMI Bitstream are due to firmware problems in the Oppo -- not in the D2v.


But just to check, your D2v firmware version should be V2.07. Press Select once on the D2v remote to see the firmware version number in the display.


Keep in mind that HDMI is an "end to end" protocol. That means that audio problems from a source can actually be due to the HDMI connection from the D2v to your display. If you are using a long HDMI run to your display, that is even more likely. However, the fact that you are not experiencing the problem when using HDMI LPCM from the Oppo makes that less likely.


So check your firmware versions, and report on the settings you are using in the Oppo and the D2v (e.g., are you using Frame Lock?) to see if that suggests anything.


I can play "Hairspray" and "Sleeping Beauty" DTS-HD MA 7.1 using HDMI Bitstream from the Oppo into my D2v without audio dropouts.

--Bob


----------



## pjpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16802788
> 
> 
> Which version of the Oppo firmware are you using? There is a "public beta" version available on their support page for the BDP-83. If you are not already using that I suggest you switch to that. It includes significant bug fixes.
> 
> 
> I have been beta testing the Oppo with my D2v, and although nothing is ever "simple" with HDMI, I think it highly likely that the dropouts you are experiencing when using HDMI Bitstream are due to firmware problems in the Oppo -- not in the D2v.
> 
> 
> But just to check, your D2v firmware version should be V2.07. Press Select once on the D2v remote to see the firmware version number in the display.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that HDMI is an "end to end" protocol. That means that audio problems from a source can actually be due to the HDMI connection from the D2v to your display. If you are using a long HDMI run to your display, that is even more likely. However, the fact that you are not experiencing the problem when using HDMI LPCM from the Oppo makes that less likely.
> 
> 
> So check your firmware versions, and report on the settings you are using in the Oppo and the D2v (e.g., are you using Frame Lock?) to see if that suggests anything.
> 
> 
> I can play "Hairspray" and "Sleeping Beauty" DTS-HD MA 7.1 using HDMI Bitstream from the Oppo into my D2v without audio dropouts.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I'm at 2.07 in the Anthem and the 620 beta in the Oppo. My HDMI runs are all short, 6 ft cables from Oppo and monoprice. I just played the blu ray Pinnochio (DTS MA 7.1) last night, no audio during the credits when bitstreaming. Okay when I replayed it but dropped out a bit later in the movie.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjpoon* /forum/post/16802979
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I'm at 2.07 in the Anthem and the 620 beta in the Oppo. My HDMI runs are all short, 6 ft cables from Oppo and monoprice. I just played the blu ray Pinnochio (DTS MA 7.1) last night, no audio during the credits when bitstreaming. Okay when I replayed it but dropped out a bit later in the movie.



Next time it happens, try this: Interrupt the audio stream, e.g., Pause/Play or Chapter Forward / Chapter Back


Now when you do this, I think you will get audio (which doesn't tell much), what I'm curious about is whether audio drops out AGAIN LATER after you do this.


There may be a bug in the way the Anthem and the Oppo initially handshake to establish the characteristics of a DTS-HD MA 7.1 input Bitstream. This would only apply to DTS-HD MA Bitstream input and only when that is a 7.1 track. In particular, check if the front panel of the D2v is showing 5.1 instead of 7.1 when you have the problem. The thing is, if I'm on the right track this would only happen at most once.


Also, in the D2v, confirm that you have Setup > Source Setup > Auto Dig off for that input, and Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock off for that input as either of those will complicate the handshake.


What input video resolution are you using from the Oppo? What output video resolution are you sending to your display?

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16799351
> 
> 
> Tim, no nothing has changed with the cable, boxes, system, TV or anthing inside the house. The only thing cable related is they came out the other day and marked the yard for utility runs. I've called them and have an appointment for Monday afternoon.



Ken - Living where we do, the lightening capital of the world it is important to heed Bob's grounding warning. In any case I bet the chances are pretty high that you have water intrusion somewhere along your line thanks to all our recent T.S. activity.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*CAUTION -- "Test" V2.07b Firmware has HDMI YCbCr Problem*


I just installed the "test V2.07b firmware in my D2v. No problems with the install itself. But I've already got a show-stopper problem with it.


HDMI YCbCr input, whether 4:4:4 or 4:2:2, at any resolution is screwed up.


HDMI RGB input works fine as does Component YPbPr input.


I'll alert Anthem. Of course it may just be a failure in my install. The problem shows up using both the Oppo and the PS3 in my setup.

--Bob


----------



## lalarsons

What LPCM rate limit should the BDP83 be set to with the D2?


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16802713
> 
> 
> The root cause of the problem is that your cable feed is not properly grounded where it enters your building, or that the wires in the walls between there and your cable TV box have had a failure of their shield connection (so that power line interference they pick up while in the walls can't exit back to that ground at the building entry point).
> 
> --Bob



This is exactly what the problem was. With day light to see outside it was indeed a loose ground connection. So I cleaned up to bright cooper and cranked it down tight. Hum is GONE......


Thanks everyone for the assistance.


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/16803578
> 
> 
> Ken - Living where we do, the lightening capital of the world it is important to heed Bob's grounding warning. In any case I bet the chances are pretty high that you have water intrusion somewhere along your line thanks to all our recent T.S. activity.



Tom,


That's exactly what I thought the problem was. I've had that happen before. Ground is all clean and nice and tight.


Speaking of lightening, I just had a whole house surge suppression stalled a couple of weeks ago. I little extra can't hurt down here...


----------



## pjpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16803064
> 
> 
> Next time it happens, try this: Interrupt the audio stream, e.g., Pause/Play or Chapter Forward / Chapter Back
> 
> 
> Now when you do this, I think you will get audio (which doesn't tell much), what I'm curious about is whether audio drops out AGAIN LATER after you do this.
> 
> 
> There may be a bug in the way the Anthem and the Oppo initially handshake to establish the characteristics of a DTS-HD MA 7.1 input Bitstream. This would only apply to DTS-HD MA Bitstream input and only when that is a 7.1 track. In particular, check if the front panel of the D2v is showing 5.1 instead of 7.1 when you have the problem. The thing is, if I'm on the right track this would only happen at most once.
> 
> 
> Also, in the D2v, confirm that you have Setup > Source Setup > Auto Dig off for that input, and Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock off for that input as either of those will complicate the handshake.
> 
> 
> What input video resolution are you using from the Oppo? What output video resolution are you sending to your display?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Most of the time the audio dropouts are so short, there is not enough time to pause the player during the dropout and the times they have been long enough to pause the player or rewind the disc a bit, there will often still be a dropout further down the line. The Anthem always displays DTS 7.1 THX. It never falls back to 5.1.

Also like this poster, ( http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...o#post16763028 ) I am hearing faint pops and ticks, almost like the vinyl days when bitstreaming 7.1 material. These are not there with LPCM.

I double checked and the Auto Dig is off in the Source Set up and the Frame Lock is off in the Video set up. The Oppo is set at Source direct for the video input (1080p/24) and I have the same video output from the D2v to the JVC 750 projector which is capable of receiving that as an input.

Thanks again for your thoughts

Philip


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The problem with "test" V2.07b is confirmed. Unfortunately V2.07c needs lots more testing before they can put it out. Wonder what's in that?


So stick with "official" V2.07, unless you are ok not using HDMI YCbCr with the test version.


ETA: Evidently, they decided it was important to get the V2.07c version out right away....

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New D2v and AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.07c Now On Password Protected Download Page!


*************** WARNING *****************


Read the change notes below. If this installation fails, your Anthem may need to go back to the factory for reprogramming!


Do not attempt this installation unless you are using a computer and a serial connection you know works well based on previous firmware installations.


In addition, Nick tells me that once V2.07c is installed (WHETHER OR NOT the installation fails), you CAN NOT GO BACK to an earlier version of the firmware!


*************** WARNING ******************


V2.07c is supposed to include all the improvements in V2.07b (still not explicitly identified) but without having the HDMI YCbCr input bug.


I do not know why this particular firmware install is so sensitive -- i.e., no way back.


If you install this and the install works, and you find bugs, you will have to live with the bugs until a fix comes out in another release. You can NOT roll back to a prior version. If you are not comfortable with this possibility DO NOT INSTALL THIS "TEST" FIRMWARE!


If you attempt to install this, and the install fails, there may be no recourse but to return the unit to the factory for reprogramming. If you are not comfortable with this possibility DO NOT INSTALL THIS "TEST" FIRMWARE!


I fully expect that the "official" firmware -- available at some point down the road -- will also make it impossible to roll back. However, before this firmware becomes "official", enough brave souls will have tried it that you can feel pretty sure there are no major bugs lurking in it.


I hope, but can not be sure, that the "official" version will not be as sensitive to install failure as this "test" version. It may STILL be the case in the "official" version, that a failed install can not be recovered without sending the unit back to the factory for reprogramming. This is a very unusual situation for Anthem firmware installs, and so I want to stress the risk here lest folks (like me) who regularly install every new release as soon as it comes out get blind-sided by this.


In any event, it sounds like we have an interesting period of installs coming up right now.


Here are the change notes since V2.06:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. More changes to video code base.
> 
> 
> WARNING: Major video processor reprogramming is involved. Do not attempt with a computer and connection that you have not used to successfully update an AVM 50v or D2v before. A programming failure may result in the necessity for factory reprogramming.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Video processor code base updates.
> 
> 
> 2. Audio DSP code base update.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for Sony as second monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for popping that began in v2.06 with Toshiba XA2 as source.
> 
> 
> 2. New VXP video processor code.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for a DSP problem that affected the AVM 50v with 44.1 kHz input.



I will probably install "Test" V2.07c tonight. Whatever happens, it should be interesting. Good luck charms and prayers gratefully accepted.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16805253
> 
> 
> I will probably install "Test" V2.07c tonight. Whatever happens, it should be interesting. Good luck charms and prayers gratefully accepted.
> 
> --Bob



You're a brave man!!










Thanks for testing it out for us!


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16805253
> 
> 
> I will probably install "Test" V2.07c tonight. Whatever happens, it should be interesting. Good luck charms and prayers gratefully accepted.
> 
> --Bob



Two hours have passed and nothing from Bob.......you think the consequences were more dire than he thought?!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In the fine tradition of 50's sci-fi, we set the climactic scene among the presses of a great metropolitan newspaper. Two enormous printing presses stretch down the room. Ink stained pressmen rip two test front pages off of them and hand each to the shop foreman.


One reads: "V2.07c Install Successful! Earth Saved!"


The other: "V2.07c Install Fails! Earth Doomed!"


The red phone on the wall rings, and the foreman picks it up.


"Press room." "Yes." "Yes." "Right chief!"


He hangs up the phone, walks between the presses tearing up and discarding one of the two sheets, tapes the other to the enormous machine, and presses a big red button. Bells ring. Lights flash. The mighty engine starts up!


"Remake that other press, boys! We've got an Extra to get out!"


And as he walks past, the camera zooms in on that surviving front page taped to the press behind him.....


"Earth Saved!"


===================================


V2.07c installed fine on my D2v. And indeed it does appear to have fixed the HDMI YCbCr problem.


I've had a few audio glitches: Occasional buzzes as the audio format changes, and a failure to properly handle a 7.1 LPCM feed from my PS3 that I cured by cycling to a different input and back. So it looks like there's still some more work to do on how the DSP code recognizes and starts up a new audio feed.


Lots of testing to do to see if any old bugs are fixed and to see if any new bugs can be identified.


I'm still using the ARC setup I created with ARC V2.1 back in March. I'm not going to change that for now as I want to change just one thing at a time here.


There are no new features evident from the Setup or Video Source Adjust menus.


In early testing, it already looks like one old bug -- the failure to properly apply a Custom Crop when changing to a Component video source which has one specified -- may have been fixed.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16805253
> 
> *
> 
> *************** WARNING *****************
> 
> In addition, Nick tells me that once V2.07c is installed
> 
> (WHETHER OR NOT the installation fails), you CAN NOT
> 
> GO BACK to an earlier version of the firmware!
> 
> 
> *************** WARNING ******************



FIX or NO FIX - Software that can not roll back is *BROKEN*.


Someone needs to get Anthem to FIX that issue. I would have

never expected this from Anthem. They are just ASKING for

TROUBLE and VERY DISSATISFIED OWNERS


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16806879
> 
> 
> FIX or NO FIX - Software that can not roll back is *BROKEN*.
> 
> 
> Someone needs to get Anthem to FIX that issue. I would have
> 
> never expected this from Anthem. They are just ASKING for
> 
> TROUBLE and VERY DISSATISFIED OWNERS



We had it once with the D2 as well. That's one of the reasons you stuck with V1.10 for so long.


In the case of the D2 the problem was that the format for the internal storage of the settings changed, which meant any older firmware installer couldn't work even with the Factory Defaults established by the newer installer.


But I'm surprised an owner can't even roll back using the Flash Eraser. So there must be something more significant going on such as changing a portion of the programming that is not normally changed by the installer (and thus an older installer won't change it back).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Testing so far with V2.07c is a mixed bag.


First of all, audio and video sound and look fine, but so far I've not spotted any dramatic improvements in quality. Calibration levels for video are unchanged. I haven't tested audio so precisely just yet, but subjectively, calibration levels for audio also appear to be unchanged and my older ARC setup seems to be working fine with this firmware. NOTE: I re-Uploaded my older ARC results after the V2.07c install "just in case".


The bug where PLIIx-Movie or PLIIx-Music applied to 2.0 input only produces 2.1 speaker output (instead of 5.1 or 7.1) appears to be fixed. It was already fixed for 48KHz 2.0 input in V2.07 (e.g., stereo audio from cable TV boxes), and is now also fixed for 44.1KHz 2.0 input in V2.07c (e.g., stereo from a CD player). You no longer have to switch to a different audio mode and back to get all the speakers properly active.


V2.07c appears to be having more trouble doing a correct HDMI handshake with my PS3. Symptoms include a black screen, or corrupted audio. Switching to a different input and back cures this. Curiously, I'm NOT having such problems with HDMI handshake from my Oppo BDP-83.


The bug where the unusual DTS-HD HR (not MA) 7.1 track from the Dragon Encounters bonus feature on "Sleeping Beauty" Blu-Ray gets seen by the D2v as only 5.1 when Bitstreamed still exists. It may be the D2v is publishing that it can only accept up to 5.1 for DTS-HD HR Bitstreams, even though it can accept up to 7.1 for DTS-HD MA Bitstreams. I've found no workaround to make the full 7.1 Bitstream work. If you set the player, to do the decoding the full 7.1 HDMI LPCM does come over correctly.


It is still possible for a 7.1 DTS-HD MA Bitstream from the Oppo to be seen by the D2v as only 5.1. THIS problem may be an Oppo bug as it is easily cured by interrupting the audio stream (e.g., Chapter Forward/Chapter Back), and once the 7.1 is properly seen it stays correct thereafter.


The bug where gray scale is messed up (e.g., black levels a little too high) when sending YCbCr 4:2:2 from the Oppo to the D2v is also still there. This is a D2v bug. It appears to be related to the 1360x768p Studio RGB video ouput setting I'm using in the D2v for my Fujitsu plasma, so folks with 720p or 1080p displays may very well not see this. The workaround for me is to use YCbCr 4:4:4 from the Oppo (at 36 bit Deep Color).


The bug where multi-channel HDMI LPCM input gets screwed up if only one channel is active at a time is still there (channels missing or corrupted). Typically this is only going to happen when playing test tones from a calibration disc, so it's not something that affects "normal" content. The workaround is to use HDMI Bitstream when playing those test tones.


The bug where switching to a Component source with a Custom Crop set doesn't actually apply the Custom Crop appears to be fixed. You no longer have to toggle Edges Off/On to get the Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Custom setting to be applied.


More testing to come.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16806879
> 
> 
> FIX or NO FIX - Software that can not roll back is *BROKEN*.
> 
> 
> Someone needs to get Anthem to FIX that issue. I would have
> 
> never expected this from Anthem. They are just ASKING for
> 
> TROUBLE and VERY DISSATISFIED OWNERS



I completely agree with you 1000% on this. Putting software out that could fail and not providing a way to rollback to a previous version is really unacceptable. I'm a software developer, and I know if I released software and it failed and/or had problams and I didn't have a way of rolling back to the previous working version, I would be looking for a new job. On top of that, if it fails, you would have to send your unit in to the factory to get it reprogrammed, oh please. Well, I don't have the D2v, so, I don't have to worry about it. Hopefully, anyone with the D2v that installs the test firmware will not have any problems with the install. I wish much success and good luck to all the D2v owners that installs the software.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More V2.07c test results.


Audio dropouts when playing CDs at HDMI LPCM 176.4KHz from the PS3 have been fixed. There's no longer the need to use the workaround to set the PS3 to 48KHz output.


There's a new bug where sometimes the on-screen text display from pressing the Select button one or more times fails to time out and go away. The workaround is to press Select again to bring up a new text display, which will properly time out and vanish.


I have to *RETRACT* my previous report that 44.1KHz 2.0 HDMI LPCM (as from a CD) played using PLIIx-Movie no longer incorrectly outputs only to 2.1 speakers in my 5.1 speaker setup. While testing that again with the Oppo I just had another such failure. Press Select multiple times and only LF/RF/Sub are shown as active for output, and indeed those are the only speakers getting audio. After some additional testing, it appears the problem is less likely to happen than in the V2.07 firmware, but it still happens. As before, cycling to a different input and back or simply changing audio mode to anything else and back cures the problem. Now I couldn't make this fail AT ALL last night. I have no idea what might have changed between then and now. So far it still appears to be the case that this bug is ONLY showing up when the 2.0 HDMI LPCM input is 44.1KHz. In particular, 48KHz stereo input from my Comcast box and from the PS3 does not trigger this bug (NOTE: This problem existed for other input frequencies as well prior to V2.06). So right now it looks like the problem is only for 44.1KHz input, which for most people will mean just CDs. And the problem only seems to arise if you have PLIIx-Movie or PLIIx-Music set as the Mode Preset for 2.0 audio input.


I still get easily repeatable "Buzz SNAP!" noise at the start of new audio from my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi (HDMI RGB 480i and HDMI Bitstream audio).


There are two long standing bugs that both relate to settings not getting properly loaded from the Video Source Adjust menu. The common factor in both of these is that toggling Edges On/Off and back again unsticks whatever is blocking the setting from being loaded properly. One bug only occurs with Component video input and has to do with a Custom Crop not getting properly applied when you select a Source you have set up that way (in Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Custom). A secondary effect of that was that an Edges On setting was not properly applied when LEAVING that Source to another Source where Edges On was set. That bug (both parts) is fixed in V2.07c.


The other bug affects only HDMI Video input and it is NOT fixed in V2.07c. If the video stream is interrupted and apparently if the aspect ratio is different, then the gray scale levels get subtly altered. In my system, Black levels are raised just a hair. The easiest way to see this is for me to set my Comcast box to 1080i output for all channels (using HDMI). Then when I go back to an SD channel, the pillar box bars are not black. They are a hair raised up from black. Switching to a different input and back cures this. So far you could easily believe this is a merely a Comcast cable box bug (one of many). But toggling Edges On/Off *ALSO* cures this! That means this really is a D2v bug. Something about the base video calibration levels is not getting properly reloaded when video input detection is triggered (either by the interruption in the video stream when you change channels or by the aspect ratio change). Again, this bug has been around for a long time. And it is still not fixed in V2.07c. Nick tells me there is apparently a race condition between a couple of processor threads when input detection is triggered and apparently they still don't have this one figured out for HDMI input even though the related Component video bug IS fixed.


I'm not sure why it doesn't seem to happen with other source devices. It may be specific to 1080i input (which I never use from other sources).


ETA: Note that key to these two Edges On/Off bugs (one fixed and the other not yet fixed) is that both Source Setup definitions involved have to point to the same device so that you are not getting a new HDMI handshake when you select the new source. If you are getting a new handshake anyway, then the issue can't arise.


More testing later.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16807791
> 
> 
> I completely agree with you 1000% on this. Putting software out that could fail and not providing a way to rollback to a previous version is really unacceptable. I'm a software developer, and I know if I released software and it failed and/or had problams and I didn't have a way of rolling back to the previous working version, I would be looking for a new job. On top of that, if it fails, you would have to send your unit in to the factory to get it reprogrammed, oh please. Well, I don't have the D2v, so, I don't have to worry about it. Hopefully, anyone with the D2v that installs the test firmware will not have any problems with the install. I wish much success and good luck to all the D2v owners that installs the software.



We wear the same shoes. I run SW Engineering Projects. I would
*FIRE* any engineer that put out SW like this that can't be rolled

back. It should always be the *1st LAW of SW Development*


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Hey, there's a long tradition of such stuff in software:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flag_day_(software) 











We're spoiled because Anthem's firmware updates have, for the most part and for most people, been so straightforward. That's what makes this one unusual.


As I recall, Denon and Pioneer are still requiring AVRs to be sent to a service center for new firmware (if they even OFFER upgrades to the newer firmware shipping in newer manufacturing runs).

--Bob


----------



## thebland

Bob. Where would users be without you?


Does Anthem plan on halting firmware updates at some point? I read this thread periodically and wonder if the updates are adding new feRures or an endless series of bugfixes?


I think I would go batty?! My processor is 4 years old. There have been 2 updates. Works/sounds great.


Are endless updates part of owning an Anthem? I've beta tested a few pieces and it seems most updates fix designated issues but create others. It seems there would be perpetual wondering if everything would work perfectly after each update... That would give me a headache. Am I missing something here?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/16808717
> 
> 
> Bob. Where would users be without you?
> 
> 
> Does Anthem plan on halting firmware updates at some point? I read this thread periodically and wonder if the updates are adding new feRures or an endless series of bugfixes?
> 
> 
> I think I would go batty?! My processor is 4 years old. There have been 2 updates. Works/sounds great.
> 
> 
> Are endless updates part of owning an Anthem? I've beta tested a few pieces and it seems most updates fix designated issues but create others. It seems there would be perpetual wondering if everything would work perfectly after each update... That would give me a headache. Am I missing something here?



Sure. Anthem's software updates are fixing real problems for folks, much of which are the result of other hardware they are also using (HDMI being what it is). The fact that most Anthem owners don't have these problems doesn't mean Anthem shouldn't try to improve life for the customers that do.


In addition, Anthem is adding new features. The Dolby Volume feature is expected shortly.


The experience with the D2v is not unlike the first months with the D2 when it first shipped. The current D2 firmware is really quite stable and yet there are a few lingering problems and the most common recurring theme here from D2 owners is that they want Anthem to do yet another firmware update for the D2 -- sooner rather than later.


Most of the posts you read here are from folks (like me) testing public beta ("test") releases. These are on a password protected download page. They never even show up on the normal download page most owners visit. By the time these releases become "official" they have been pretty well vetted, so that it really does make sense for most owners to do the upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16808687
> 
> 
> Hey, there's a long tradition of such stuff in software:
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flag_day_(software)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I don't think the Wiki Page applies. Those are examples of changes

in Functionality or Protocol - like NCP to TCP/IP. That is why they

are called flag days - it is like saying This is a NEW DAY. Even in

the case of NCP to TCP/IP - you could roll it back but then all you

would have is NCP and NOT TCP/IP.


And sure - I have 42 years of engineering under my Belt. I know

well some people/projects/companies have written SW that does

not roll back.


My Opinion is not to let anyone get away with that and no one has

ever gotten away with that *ON-MY-WATCH*. My Engineering

experiences is all in the Telecom world where things do not go down,

where fault tolerance is #1 and in-service upgrades are the ORDER

of the day without ever dropping a connection or a packet.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16808885
> 
> 
> My Opinion is not to let anyone get away with that and no one has
> 
> ever gotten away with that *ON-MY-WATCH*. My Engineering
> 
> experiences is all in the Telecom world where things do not go down,
> 
> where fault tolerance is #1 and in-service upgrades are the ORDER
> 
> of the day without ever dropping a connection or a packet.



I've done telecom related software too, and it is a very different proposition than consumer electronics. Six to twelve months of acceptance testing to get carrier grade reliability aren't going to work when you are making hardware compatibility fixes in an environment where there is a 1 year product lifecycle.


However I do feel that the possibility that a user error could end up with the equipment wedged to the point where it has to go back to the factory is unreasonable.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I suggest we wait and see what warnings apply when this firmware eventually becomes "official".


However, as "test" software, it is unfortunate that many folks who could help out with testing will, quite rightly, decide the risk is too high to do this install.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89

Bob, the notes mention "major" video code changes, any chance that includes horizontal squeeze (Panamorph "Mode 2") scaling?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16808687
> 
> 
> Hey, there's a long tradition of such stuff in software:
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flag_day_(software)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're spoiled because Anthem's firmware updates have, for the most part and for most people, been so straightforward. That's what makes this one unusual.
> 
> 
> As I recall, Denon and Pioneer are still requiring AVRs to be sent to a service center for new firmware (if they even OFFER upgrades to the newer firmware shipping in newer manufacturing runs).
> 
> --Bob



In my place of business, that's still completely unacceptable. If the software is not working, it must be rolled back regardless of the cost. Before we release any software, it goes through a rigorous amount of capacity, stress, and fail-over testing before we release it to our customers. And once again, we are talking about updating software which means if it's a major software update, the first step is to take a backup of the existing software first. If the install fails, collect diagnostic of the failure, send to the technical team, pop up a message to inform the customer that the install failed, and re-install the previous working software. Every software install should never put a customer in a worse position. Anyway, that's all I'm going to say about software upgrades. Let's get back to the "tweaking" and enjoying our toys.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16808953
> 
> 
> I've done telecom related software too, and it is a very different proposition than consumer electronics. Six to twelve months of acceptance testing to get carrier grade reliability aren't going to work when you are making hardware compatibility fixes in an environment where there is a 1 year product lifecycle.
> 
> 
> However I do feel that the possibility that a user error could end up with the equipment wedged to the point where it has to go back to the factory is unreasonable.



I would never expect a Consumer SW Company to invest in Telecom

Class SW - but still - compare the level of Sophistication of the End

User - Carrier versus Consumer?


If I were developing Consumer class SW - I'd be sure to get it RIGHT

because the Consumer is clueless on what even went wrong.


All Consumers are not Beta Testing *Bob Pariseau* kind of guys.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/16809147
> 
> 
> Bob, the notes mention "major" video code changes, any chance that includes horizontal squeeze (Panamorph "Mode 2") scaling?



Not that I can find.


There are no feature changes visible in the Setup or Video Source Adjust menu settings.

--Bob


----------



## allEars-here

I need some advise from Anthem owners.


I am looking into getting a Anthem AVM 30 & the Anthem PVA 5 new from a local store for around $2500CND ($2100US).


I am currently using a Marantz 7500 to power a set of Paradigm Studio speakers. I use the set mostly for music and for the weekly movie. Will I notice a big difference between the two setups? I would love to go with the latest version from Anthem but is out of my price range. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allEars-here* /forum/post/16810148
> 
> 
> I need some advise from Anthem owners.
> 
> 
> I am looking into getting a Anthem AVM 30 & the Anthem PVA 5 new from a local store for around $2500CND ($2100US).
> 
> 
> I am currently using a Marantz 7500 to power a set of Paradigm Studio speakers. I use the set mostly for music and for the weekly movie. Will I notice a big difference between the two setups? I would love to go with the latest version from Anthem but is out of my price range. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.



I can't give you any direct comparison, but it might help to know that from an audio perspective, the AVM 30 should sound basically identical to the original AVM 50 (without ARC). So any info you find on audio from the AVM 50 (without ARC) would be applicable. Look for older reviews using Google.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters

This update is too scary for me. I couldn't live without my pre pro for weeks while waiting for it to be fixed at the factory.


I hope the official release won't require factory reprogramming if something happens with the install.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16808687
> 
> 
> As I recall, Denon and Pioneer are still requiring AVRs to be sent to a service center for new firmware (if they even OFFER upgrades to the newer firmware shipping in newer manufacturing runs).
> 
> --Bob



Bob.... that's not correct..


Pioneer is indeed skimpy on FW updates, but for the newer models, there are those that have been updating them in the field.


Denon has been allowing updates over the internet since the advent of the x308 lineup, including the AVP... it's much the same as updating the Oppo over the internet (although it takes much longer.) Most of the updates have been for bug fixes, but the most recent one for the AVP and 5308 added Denon Link 4. They have also offered paid updates in the past for the 4308 and 3808 for Audsysey Dynamic EQ and Volume, Rhapsody, HDMI CEC and Sirius capability (that was a total package for $100).


In my opinion, the antiquated RS-232 updates of the Anthem represent one of the few blemishes on this otherwise stellar product line up... it's neither convenient, simple or with out issues on certain hardware setups.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/16813976
> 
> 
> Bob.... that's not correct..
> 
> 
> Pioneer is indeed skimpy on FW updates, but for the newer models, there are those that have been updating them in the field.
> 
> 
> Denon has been allowing updates over the internet since the advent of the x308 lineup, including the AVP... it's much the same as updating the Oppo over the internet (although it takes much longer.) Most of the updates have been for bug fixes, but the most recent one for the AVP and 5308 added Denon Link 4. They have also offered paid updates in the past for the 4308 and 3808 for Audsysey Dynamic EQ and Volume, Rhapsody, HDMI CEC and Sirius capability (that was a total package for $100).
> 
> 
> In my opinion, the antiquated RS-232 updates of the Anthem represent one of the few blemishes on this otherwise stellar product line up... it's neither convenient, simple or with out issues on certain hardware setups.



Got it. Thanks. And if you decide you don't like the update and want to roll back to the prior version?


I'm just teasing. I agree that Anthem should move away from RS232 for updates.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/16813976
> 
> 
> 
> In my opinion, the antiquated RS-232 updates of the Anthem represent one of the few blemishes on this otherwise stellar product line up... it's neither convenient, simple or with out issues on certain hardware setups.



I could not possibly agree with you more.


Bob knows this too, because he can compare to the extreme ease of upgrading the Oppo BD83.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/16814082
> 
> 
> I could not possibly agree with you more.
> 
> 
> Bob knows this too, because he can compare to the extreme ease of upgrading the Oppo BD83.



Ah, but we beta testers are not allowed to talk about the Oppo updating issues real customers don't see!









--Bob


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16808687
> 
> 
> Hey, there's a long tradition of such stuff in software:
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flag_day_(software)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're spoiled because Anthem's firmware updates have, for the most part and for most people, been so straightforward. That's what makes this one unusual.
> 
> 
> As I recall, Denon and Pioneer are still requiring AVRs to be sent to a service center for new firmware (if they even OFFER upgrades to the newer firmware shipping in newer manufacturing runs).
> 
> --Bob



Also. don't forget that this software has not been released to the general public. Anybody that logs onto the password protected site should already fully understand that they are using test software that is not released yet to the general public and may have problems.


Ed


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/16815351
> 
> 
> Also. don't forget that this software has not been released to the general public. Anybody that logs onto the password protected site should already fully understand that they are using test software that is not released yet to the general public and may have problems.
> 
> 
> Ed



Nick told me the V2.07b "test" firmware (the one with the HDMI YCbCr problem) was put up to address a critical audio problem being experienced by one particular customer. I don't know what that problem actually was.


Because of the YCbCr problem in it, I think they were forced to put up V2.07c sooner than they wanted.


That said, we still won't know until the next "official" software release whether it will come with the scary warnings or not.


-------------------------------------


I've not found any additional issues with V2.07c, and it looks and sounds great in my setup. So the problems are related to getting the content going in the first place -- HDMI handshakes that are a bit balkier than "official" V2.07 and some brief audio corruption now and again as a new audio stream starts. I've sent all my results to Anthem.


ps: Software updates for the PS3 have NEVER allowed roll-back. And yes they've gotten bitten by that from time to time. It's only very recently that they provided a mechanism to allow the user to try a re-install of the newest firmware if the first install left the player bricked. But still no roll-back, and if the re-install doesn't work it's back to the service center.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16816272
> 
> 
> I've not found any additional issues with V2.07c, and it looks and sounds great in my setup.



Thanks for the info. Better than 2.07 or just in general?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16816295
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. Better than 2.07 or just in general?



Just in general. There's one specific video improvement I've found related to SD-DVD playback from the Oppo, but I can't go into details because it involves beta Oppo software.


Other than that, I haven't yet found any specific cases of audio or video better than "official" V2.07. Calibrations are unchanged. I do like the fact that my Custom Crop settings now work as they are supposed to.


If there are audio/video improvements, they are fairly subtle (as is the case with the Oppo thing I alluded to above). So maybe I'll spot more as time goes on.

--Bob


----------



## agrsiv95

Here is my latest Arc run with the new front stage.

What do you guys think?


Thanks,


Jeremy


----------



## Bob Pariseau

AVM 50 firmware V1.31 has appeared this afternoon on Anthem's password protected download page. The "official" firmware version for the AVM 50 remains V1.33, so presumably this older version (from March 2008) has been put up to help diagnose a specific problem some AVM 50 customer is having.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/16818021
> 
> 
> Here is my latest Arc run with the new front stage.
> 
> What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jeremy



ARC is Measuring way too much bass from LF/RF -- particularly around 50Hz -- so it is acting pretty aggressively to counter that. This includes starting the crossover for those at a higher frequency than it is using for the other speakers. This may give you a poorer transition between LF/RF and the sub.


If you can tone down the bass LF and RF are producing, that would be good. If they have satellite subs or powered woofers, there will likely be controls for this. Or there may be a bass port you need to close. Or you may need to move them further away from the wall or put some bass traps behind them.


You also have a hole in Center around 150Hz. There are some signs in the other speakers that there may be some room response issues near there, but nothing nearly as dramatic as in C. ARC has corrected quite a bit of that but you still have a residual error of around 3-4dB which is enough to be worth some effort. This could be due to the mounting of Center or how closely it is placed to reflective surfaces.

--Bob


----------



## agrsiv95

Thanks Bob,


I just picked up Studio 100s and a CC690. Subs are 2 JL F113s and still have the Polk RTI6s for the four surrounds. I have Auralex corner traps and panels at first reflection and rear wall. The 100s are away from the front wall 16" and 22" from the side. It is a front projection setup and the center is below the screen 8" from the wall.


Jeremy


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You didn't post your Targets window, but it looks from the charts that ARC is applying a 100Hz crossover to LF/RF. If you could tame the bass they're putting out (and get a little boost moved into mid-range) ARC wouldn't need to apply the crossover that high and you'd get more use out of the low frequency response you are paying for in those.

--Bob


----------



## agrsiv95

Sorry, here are the cutoffs.


Jeremy


----------



## Warpdrv

Ultimately though Bob, it looks like ARC has things easily in hand and the corrected response looks great to me... Things should be sounding very nice in there from what I can see...


Jeremy, I see you live in Milwaukee, I am just north of you in Grafton, we should get together, looks like we have some similar setups here...


Studio 100's, 690.... I also have the Sig S4's with an F112 for a second setup..


----------



## muad'dib

Has anyone compared the dvdo edge to the d2V?


Just curious, as many people are raving about the edge.


----------



## Murat

Hello Bob,


I've just received my new Denon DVD-A1UDCI player and as you might know it has 2 HDMI outputs for "AV Pure Direct" connection. With this setting it can output just video from HDMI 1 and just audio HDMI 2. But I was not able to get this type of connection to work with D2v. An easy way out solution is to connect video HDMI directly to display but then I won't get OSD info from Anthem on the display.


Is there anyway to setup the D2v so the source is getting its video and audio thru separate HDMI inputs?


Thank You


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16820901
> 
> 
> Has anyone compared the dvdo edge to the d2V?
> 
> 
> Just curious, as many people are raving about the edge.



They have to justify why they don't own a D2v and Why they bought a Edge?


Any outboard VP is a waste of money - These Day.


For Hi-Def Source Material - there is not a lot any VP [In or Out] can do.


I know some VPs try to convert 8 bit color to 10 or 12 or even 16 bits - which

at best is a GUESS. Then in a lot of cases they send it to the display device

that down scales it back to 8 bits. All the processing is useless.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16821413
> 
> 
> They have to justify why they don't own a D2v and Why they bought a Edge?
> 
> 
> Any outboard VP is a waste of money - These Day.



Not necessarilly, outboard VPs have way better AR controls than anything else (that's really my biggest disappointment with the Anthem's scaler).


And thanks for the response Bob, spaced off I should be looking for a response


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/16821144
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> I've just received my new Denon DVD-A1UDCI player and as you might know it has 2 HDMI outputs for "AV Pure Direct" connection. With this setting it can output just video from HDMI 1 and just audio HDMI 2. But I was not able to get this type of connection to work with D2v. An easy way out solution is to connect video HDMI directly to display but then I won't get OSD info from Anthem on the display.
> 
> 
> Is there anyway to setup the D2v so the source is getting its video and audio thru separate HDMI inputs?
> 
> 
> Thank You



Understand that HDMI Audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of HDMI Video. Always. That means this idea of making your HDMI Audio "purer" by sending the video over a different cable is just malarky.


I.e., the so-called HDMI Audio-only signal still includes video. It is usually just video of a black screen, but it is there nonetheless. The audio bits and video bits take up different points in the transmission of each frame of video, so there is no interaction (so long as the video resolution you are using is high enough to create enough space for the audio bandwidth you are using).


--------------------------


The two HDMI outputs of the D2v carry the same video signal. There is no way, at present, to change that. The video processor in the D2v has two separate video processing paths, one used for each output. So it may be possible in the future for Anthem to add the ability to use different video processor settings for the two outputs. But that is complicated by the HDMI copy protection stuff which puts limits on what can be done if you fan an input signal out to multiple outputs.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/16821902
> 
> 
> Not necessarilly, outboard VPs have way better AR controls than anything else (that's really my biggest disappointment with the Anthem's scaler).



What sort of controls are you looking for that are not present in the Anthem video processor?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16822137
> 
> 
> What sort of controls are you looking for that are not present in the Anthem video processor?
> 
> --Bob



I had no clue to what *AR CONTROLS ARE?*


Must be Aspect Ratio


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16820901
> 
> 
> Has anyone compared the dvdo edge to the d2V?
> 
> 
> Just curious, as many people are raving about the edge.



As I recall, the Oppo BDP-83 uses the same video processor as the Edge (actually a version specially customized for Oppo). If I'm correct in that, then the video processing comparison I've done between the Oppo and the D2v is relevant.


Part of the problem with any such comparison is that you aren't just comparing the hardware, you are also comparing the ACCESS to the hardware provided by the rest of the product. For example, I find the D2v controls give me "finer" control than the Oppo.


In de-interlacing, there are a couple things the Oppo does better than the D2v, but there are other things the D2v does better than the Oppo. The de-interlacing tests on the new "Spears & Munsil" Blu-Ray calibration disc are useful for this. Note that the test segments are on that disc in 3 different encodings: HD-VC1, SD-VC1, and SD-MPEG2. So to get the full picture you have to try all three. You must send HDMI 480i to the D2v when doing the SD testing in the D2v and HDMI 1080i to the D2v when doing the HD testing.


The Oppo implements a horizontal squeeze "zoom" mode for folks with CIH projection setups. That's one significant feature the D2v does not currently offer.


I find noise reduction in the Oppo and the D2v to be comparable. I'm not a big fan of noise reduction schemes, so take this with a grain of salt.


Color space conversions work just as well in the Oppo as in the D2v.


Again, I'm no positive this is directly relevant to your question about the Edge but I believe it is.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16819359
> 
> 
> Ultimately though Bob, it looks like ARC has things easily in hand and the corrected response looks great to me... Things should be sounding very nice in there from what I can see...



Yes and no.


With the exception of that one dip in Center, ARC was able to hit it's chosen Target curves, which is good. The corrected audio should sound a LOT better than the uncorrected audio.


However ARC is not able to use the LF/RF to full advantage. Mostly I'm worried that the crossover for LF/RF is higher than ideal (and in particular that the "cutoff" for sub is low enough that there is a bit of a gap between them). I think the LF/RF solution is a compromise chosen by ARC to squelch the hot bass they are producing. If he can tame that bass output, then I think ARC will come up with an even cleaner solution.

--Bob


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16816329
> 
> 
> Just in general. There's one specific video improvement I've found related to SD-DVD playback from the Oppo, but I can't go into details because it involves beta Oppo software.
> 
> 
> --Bob



I ran into a video glitch when playing back Fellowship of the Ring Extended Edition SD DVD through my Oppo BDP-83 -> D2V last weekend. It involved one particular scene that behaved rather strangely. The scene is in Lothlorein where the Fellowship goes to meet Galadiel. There is a headshot of Galadriel on a black background that then shifts to an image of Celeborn and Galadriel standing together. The last bit of the headshot gets quite bright, and then when the shift occurs the bottom black bar disappears and the video is shifted down into the bottom of the screen. This continues for a couple of seconds then the video recovers to normal position. Very strange; I have not seen this on any disc before. I tried changing settings on the Oppo - Pure Direct, etc. and it had no effect on this glitch.


I really haven't messed with the video settings on the D2V much so it would be fair to say they are as shipped from the factory.


Since you have a lot of experience with using the Oppo and D2v together I'm interested in what you might think is the issue here.


I tried ask about this in the Oppo forum and got the response that others are not seeing this glitch.


Also, another thing I've occasionally noticed is an occasional blanking that goes on at chapter change on some disks. This also seems to be new to my Oppo D2V combination.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/16822736
> 
> 
> I ran into a video glitch when playing back Fellowship of the Ring Extended Edition SD DVD through my Oppo BDP-83 -> D2V last weekend. It involved one particular scene that behaved rather strangely. The scene is in Lothlorein where the Fellowship goes to meet Galadiel. There is a headshot of Galadriel on a black background that then shifts to an image of Celeborn and Galadriel standing together. The last bit of the headshot gets quite bright, and then when the shift occurs the bottom black bar disappears and the video is shifted down into the bottom of the screen. This continues for a couple of seconds then the video recovers to normal position. Very strange; I have not seen this on any disc before. I tried changing settings on the Oppo - Pure Direct, etc. and it had no effect on this glitch.
> 
> 
> I really haven't messed with the video settings on the D2V much so it would be fair to say they are as shipped from the factory.
> 
> 
> Since you have a lot of experience with using the Oppo and D2v together I'm interested in what you might think is the issue here.
> 
> 
> I tried ask about this in the Oppo forum and got the response that others are not seeing this glitch.
> 
> 
> Also, another thing I've occasionally noticed is an occasional blanking that goes on at chapter change on some disks. This also seems to be new to my Oppo D2V combination.



If you have not already installed the "public beta" firmware for the BDP-83 you should do so.


If you are trying to use DVD/24 when viewing SD-DVDs in the Oppo I suggest you turn that off.


Then try the problem scenes again and see if you still have the issue.


What you are describing must either be Oppo bugs or a problem on your copy of the disc. The D2v has no way of knowing that a chapter change has happened for example.

--Bob


----------



## Murat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16822129
> 
> 
> Understand that HDMI Audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of HDMI Video. Always. That means this idea of making your HDMI Audio "purer" by sending the video over a different cable is just malarky.
> 
> 
> I.e., the so-called HDMI Audio-only signal still includes video. It is usually just video of a black screen, but it is there nonetheless. The audio bits and video bits take up different points in the transmission of each frame of video, so there is no interaction (so long as the video resolution you are using is high enough to create enough space for the audio bandwidth you are using).
> 
> 
> --------------------------
> 
> 
> The two HDMI outputs of the D2v carry the same video signal. There is no way, at present, to change that. The video processor in the D2v has two separate video processing paths, one used for each output. So it may be possible in the future for Anthem to add the ability to use different video processor settings for the two outputs. But that is complicated by the HDMI copy protection stuff which puts limits on what can be done if you fan an input signal out to multiple outputs.
> 
> --Bob




You may be right as it may not provide any noticiable benefits. But I don't know why you mentioned about the limits of D2v's 2 HDMI outputs. All I want to try is to feed the Anthem with separate HDMI inputs (one for Audio, one for Video) for just one source. Obviously, I don't want to change anything or switch to another setting as I must have both signals present for that source.


Can this be done with D2v and how?


----------



## vengazor

Got my new D2v from the carrier today!! I can't wait to open it up, but my basement construction just began on Monday, so i have to wait almost a month to set it up, ugh. But I guess I can put it on my resume that I am now a D2v owner!! Will post pics and versions when I get home.


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/16822908
> 
> 
> You may be right as it may not provide any noticiable benefits... All I want to try is to feed the Anthem with separate HDMI inputs (one for Audio, one for Video) for just one source.



If there is no sonic or video benefit, why do you want to do this?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/16822908
> 
> 
> You may be right as it may not provide any noticiable benefits. But I don't know why you mentioned about the limits of D2v's 2 HDMI outputs. All I want to try is to feed the Anthem with separate HDMI inputs (one for Audio, one for Video) for just one source. Obviously, I don't want to change anything or switch to another setting as I must have both signals present for that source.
> 
> 
> Can this be done with D2v and how?



I doubt you will find ANY AVR on the planet that will do that










I would guess it is even a VIOLATION of the HDMI License.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16822137
> 
> 
> What sort of controls are you looking for that are not present in the Anthem video processor?
> 
> --Bob



Horizontal squeeze







Not all lenses can be moved.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/16823571
> 
> 
> Horizontal squeeze
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all lenses can be moved.



Have you looked *HERE*


and Then SCROLL down to this area - there are links there.

** Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling*


----------



## Murat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/16823329
> 
> 
> If there is no sonic or video benefit, why do you want to do this?



Denon claims "The dual parallel HDMI outputs can also be assigned with HDMI Pure Direct Mode, with one HDMI output for audio and the other HDMI output for video with higher digital clocking accuracy and improved jitter control"


It might be wortless but why not try it.


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/16823571
> 
> 
> Horizontal squeeze
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all lenses can be moved.



Someday hopefully











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16823601
> 
> 
> Have you looked *HERE*
> 
> 
> and Then SCROLL down to this area - there are links there.
> 
> ** Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling*



Squeeze mode isn't supported by Anthem!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/16822908
> 
> 
> You may be right as it may not provide any noticiable benefits. But I don't know why you mentioned about the limits of D2v's 2 HDMI outputs. All I want to try is to feed the Anthem with separate HDMI inputs (one for Audio, one for Video) for just one source. Obviously, I don't want to change anything or switch to another setting as I must have both signals present for that source.
> 
> 
> Can this be done with D2v and how?



Sorry about my misunderstanding. The short answer is, "No."


To get audio from an HDMI input you must "process" that input. There is only one processing path. So you have no additional path to process the video from another HDMI input.


Basically this means that if you want both audio and video to come in on HDMI, then they must come in on the same cable.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/16823571
> 
> 
> Horizontal squeeze
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all lenses can be moved.



Correct, but that's the ONLY missing feature, right?


Nick tells me horizontal squeeze is, at long last, on the list for a future firmware update.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/16823641
> 
> 
> Denon claims "The dual parallel HDMI outputs can also be assigned with HDMI Pure Direct Mode, with one HDMI output for audio and the other HDMI output for video with higher digital clocking accuracy and improved jitter control"
> 
> 
> It might be wortless but why not try it.



Sounds like Grade A marketing nonsense to me.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16823973
> 
> 
> Sounds like Grade A marketing nonsense to me.
> 
> --Bob



Denon is an *EXPERT* at that


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16821413
> 
> 
> They have to justify why they don't own a D2v and Why they bought a Edge?
> 
> 
> Any outboard VP is a waste of money - These Day.
> 
> 
> For Hi-Def Source Material - there is not a lot any VP [In or Out] can do.
> 
> 
> I know some VPs try to convert 8 bit color to 10 or 12 or even 16 bits - which
> 
> at best is a GUESS. Then in a lot of cases they send it to the display device
> 
> that down scales it back to 8 bits. All the processing is useless.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/16821902
> 
> 
> Not necessarilly, outboard VPs have way better AR controls than anything else (that's really my biggest disappointment with the Anthem's scaler).
> 
> 
> And thanks for the response Bob, spaced off I should be looking for a response





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16822186
> 
> 
> As I recall, the Oppo BDP-83 uses the same video processor as the Edge (actually a version specially customized for Oppo). If I'm correct in that, then the video processing comparison I've done between the Oppo and the D2v is relevant.
> 
> 
> Part of the problem with any such comparison is that you aren't just comparing the hardware, you are also comparing the ACCESS to the hardware provided by the rest of the product. For example, I find the D2v controls give me "finer" control than the Oppo.
> 
> 
> In de-interlacing, there are a couple things the Oppo does better than the D2v, but there are other things the D2v does better than the Oppo. The de-interlacing tests on the new "Spears & Munsil" Blu-Ray calibration disc are useful for this. Note that the test segments are on that disc in 3 different encodings: HD-VC1, SD-VC1, and SD-MPEG2. So to get the full picture you have to try all three. You must send HDMI 480i to the D2v when doing the SD testing in the D2v and HDMI 1080i to the D2v when doing the HD testing.
> 
> 
> The Oppo implements a horizontal squeeze "zoom" mode for folks with CIH projection setups. That's one significant feature the D2v does not currently offer.
> 
> 
> I find noise reduction in the Oppo and the D2v to be comparable. I'm not a big fan of noise reduction schemes, so take this with a grain of salt.
> 
> 
> Color space conversions work just as well in the Oppo as in the D2v.
> 
> 
> Again, I'm no positive this is directly relevant to your question about the Edge but I believe it is.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks guys...












I forgot the oppo has the same scaler as the edge in it, think I will try different tests to see what the differences are..


I am really curious as to which unit does better at the detail enhancements..


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16824114
> 
> 
> 
> I am really curious as to which unit does better at the detail enhancements..



Any of these VPs will probably on make a difference on SD material.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16823948
> 
> 
> Correct, but that's the ONLY missing feature, right?



To be perfectly honest, lack of that stopped me from digging any further. My current lens is VC and can't be moved out of the path, and even when/if I get an HE lens, I'm not planning to use a sled or passthrough mode.


A CMS like a lumagen would be nice. I forget does the Anthem have 11-point gamma correction?



> Quote:
> Nick tells me horizontal squeeze is, at long last, on the list for a future firmware update.
> 
> --Bob



Well be sure to let us know when its in the firmware (not that you need a reminder







) because that will move a 50V well up my list.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/16824392
> 
> 
> 
> A CMS like a lumagen would be nice. I forget does the Anthem have 11-point gamma correction?



Any ISF Certified Technician will tell you ALL CMS should

be done in the PJ/Dispay.


That doesn't mean that they would not use the CMS in

a Lumagen - but the VP is the wrong place to be doing

CMS.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/16824392
> 
> 
> To be perfectly honest, lack of that stopped me from digging any further. My current lens is VC and can't be moved out of the path, and even when/if I get an HE lens, I'm not planning to use a sled or passthrough mode.
> 
> 
> A CMS like a lumagen would be nice. I forget does the Anthem have 11-point gamma correction?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well be sure to let us know when its in the firmware (not that you need a reminder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) because that will move a 50V well up my list.



The Anthems do have multi-point gamma correction -- either a single curve (gray scale) or separate R, G, and B curves.


They do not have CMS. I think folks here can make a pretty good case that CMS external to the display is a bad idea.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16824446
> 
> 
> Any ISF Certified Technician will tell you ALL CMS should
> 
> be done in the PJ/Dispay.
> 
> 
> That doesn't mean that they would not use the CMS in
> 
> a Lumagen - but the VP is the wrong place to be doing
> 
> CMS.



Oh, agreed, but that idea doesn't do people with an RS10 any good, it doesn't have a CMS. Or the RS20 before it's CMS was fixed. That's why I said "nice" not missing. When chosing between no CMS, and CMS in the wrong place.....



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16824453
> 
> 
> The Anthems do have multi-point gamma correction -- either a single curve (gray scale) or separate R, G, and B curves.



Yeah, I'd love to get that in my system, and the good Gennum deinterlacing/scaling into my system.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/16824557
> 
> 
> Oh, agreed, but that idea doesn't do people with an RS10 any good, it doesn't have a CMS. Or the RS20 before it's CMS was fixed. That's why I said "nice" not missing. When chosing between no CMS, and CMS in the wrong place.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'd love to get that in my system, and the good Gennum deinterlacing/scaling into my system.



I know it is a painful decision - but why spend more good money

to fix something that is broken. It is sometimes possible to SELL

the broken thing and apply the SALE money along with the MONEY

that would have been spent on an extra gadget to try and fix the

broken thing - and then BUY something that is newer and NOT Broken.


Price Performance in this industry always IMPROVES.


I sold my Lexicon Gear and my DVDO gear and combined the money

and BOUGHT my Anthem - WITH MONEY LEFT OVER


----------



## stanger89

Oh, fortunately I don't have anything that needs a CMS personally


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/16824702
> 
> 
> Oh, fortunately I don't have anything that needs a CMS personally



There you go


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*MAJOR NEWS FOR OWNERS OF ORIGINAL D2 and AVM 50 UNITS!


"Test" Firmware V1.47c Now Up on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page!*


The long-awaited next firmware update for the original D2 and AVM 50 processors has made its first appearance on Anthem's password protected download page. Dubbed V1.47c, the change notes for changes since the current, "official" firmware (V1.33) read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v1.47c beta:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. New HDMI code base.
> 
> 
> 2. Fix for AVM 50 DACs not muting while HDMI input has video without audio.



Since I no longer have my D2, I won't be able to try this code myself.


As usual, "test" firmware should be considered unfinished. It may come with unpleasant surprises. Make sure you have a copy of the "official" V1.33 installer (available from Anthem's public download page) in case you have to roll back.


It's been some time since folks with the original Anthem processors had a chance to do an update. So read the text file to refresh your memory. In particular, remember that you must not have any powered HDMI connections during the install (source or display) and that you need to do a Reload Factory Defaults prior to the install.


Since HDMI connectors are delicate, my recommendation is that you just remove wall power from everything except the Anthem and your computer prior to the install.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16826040
> 
> *MAJOR NEWS FOR OWNERS OF ORIGINAL D2 and AVM 50 UNITS!
> 
> 
> "Test" Firmware V1.47c Now Up on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> --Bob



Where is the NO ROLL BACK warning?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16826047
> 
> 
> Where is the NO ROLL BACK warning?



I doubt there is one. The issue with the D2v and AVM 50v "test" V2.07c firmware apparently has to do with its reprogramming of the new video board in those units.


If that's correct, then there's no such problem with this "test" V1.47c code for the original processors.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16826079
> 
> 
> I doubt there is one. The issue with the D2v and AVM 50v "test" V2.07c firmware apparently has to do with its reprogramming of the new video board in those units.
> 
> 
> If that's correct, then there's no such problem with this "test" V1.47c code for the original processors.
> 
> --Bob



I KNOW







- I just had to YANK the Anthem Chain


----------



## Milt99

So Doc, looking forward to your take on 1.47c.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16826040
> 
> *MAJOR NEWS FOR OWNERS OF ORIGINAL D2 and AVM 50 UNITS!
> 
> 
> "Test" Firmware V1.47c Now Up on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> The long-awaited next firmware update for the original D2 and AVM 50 processors has made its first appearance on Anthem's password protected download page. Dubbed V1.47c, the change notes for changes since the current, "official" firmware (V1.33) read as follows:
> 
> 
> --Bob



That is great news... Nice to see that Anthem is still going to bat for the older units as well... don't see that very often with other brands - or at all... I have been considering an D2 for my second system, if I can snatch one up for the right price... W/ARC would be a nice added benefit - seeing as I only have 5.1 in there...










Way to go Anthem...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/16826556
> 
> 
> So Doc, looking forward to your take on 1.47c.



I'm buried with HORRIBLE WORK - Writing a Patent. It is like sticking

toothpicks in my eyes.







Maybe I can play with Anthem SW next week.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I got clarification from Nick on the issue of "rolling back" the "test" V2.07c D2v and AVM 50v firmware to "official" V2.07.


He now says that if the V2.07c install completes normally, and you decide you want to roll back due to bugs in V2.07c, then that *SHOULD WORK*.


So it is not the one way change I previously warned about.


However, if the V2.07c install fails, and in particular if it fails while the video board is being programmed, then there is a risk the unit will have to go back to the factory for special reprogramming of the video board. I.e., you probably won't be able to recover by trying to go back to "official" V2.07.


----------------------------------------


So far, I see no serious problem in "test" V2.07c, so if you do decide to risk the install of "test" V2.07c, and if it does work, I would still suggest you do NOT go back to V2.07 if you spot some annoyances in V2.07c. Live with them until a fix comes out in a new "test" version. My logic is, if you go back to V2.07, you'll just face the install risk all over again the next time you decide to go forward with an eventual newer release.

--Bob


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> 1. New HDMI code base.



Will this speed up and/or improve on long blue or snowy screens while switching between HDMI sources? Since I've added the Oppo Blu-Ray player, switching from DTV (component) to the Oppo (HDMI) results in lots of snowy sceens and brief HDMI error messages. They almost always go away, and the video will eventually play fine, but the cumbersome switching is a bit annoying.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/16829854
> 
> 
> Will this speed up and/or improve on long blue or snowy screens while switching between HDMI sources? Since I've added the Oppo Blu-Ray player, switching from DTV (component) to the Oppo (HDMI) results in lots of snowy sceens and brief HDMI error messages. They almost always go away, and the video will eventually play fine, but the cumbersome switching is a bit annoying.



No one knows until some folks try it and report.


Keep in mind that Oppo is also continuing to work on improvements to its HDMI code as well.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/16829854
> 
> 
> Will this speed up and/or improve on long blue or snowy screens while switching between HDMI sources? Since I've added the Oppo Blu-Ray player, switching from DTV (component) to the Oppo (HDMI) results in lots of snowy sceens and brief HDMI error messages. They almost always go away, and the video will eventually play fine, but the cumbersome switching is a bit annoying.



I have not tried the new code yet, I'm still on 1.33.


However - I suspect it is the Oppo that might be the real problem

and it is Possible the new code could fix that. I point the finger at

the Oppo - only because I don't have one. But I have all my Component

inputs on the D2 used as well as all my HDMI inputs.


I never see any snowy screens, or HDMI errors when I switch from

Component to HDMI or Vice-Versa.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've also received confirmation from Nick that there is no need to re-Measure for ARC just because you install "test" V2.07c on a D2v or AVM 50v. There are no changes in it that would alter what ARC heard in your prior Measurements, and so the solution ARC produced is still valid.


It's not supposed to be necessary to re-Upload ARC results after a firmware install, but since it doesn't take very long and the cable is already hooked up I do that anyway "just in case".


I.e., Save User Settings, Reload Factory Defaults, do the firmware install, Load Saved User Settings, Upload ARC, check Setup menu to make sure things still look correct, Save User Settings to be sure you have captured what ARC just Uploaded (which probably includes no changes).

--Bob


----------



## aus

Should we upgrade if everything is working fine now?

Does it add any functionality?


----------



## zuesmaximus

just finished watching 'The Knowing' on BD... horrible handshakes thru out the film, this is my fourth movie with this issue. I hope Anthem will address the bad handshakes. I had to power off unit to continue to watch film









--Manny


----------



## muad'dib

Hello.


Does anyone have a txt/pdf file with all the Anthem d2v Rs232 commands.


I want to program my Nevo remote, and figure that there are more commands on the Rs232 than IR..


Mainly, I am wondering if there are Rs232 commands for switching what video output config you want to use.


Anyway, hope someone has some info..


Thanks in advance..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16833366
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a txt/pdf file with all the Anthem d2v Rs232 commands.
> 
> 
> I want to program my Nevo remote, and figure that there are more commands on the Rs232 than IR..
> 
> 
> Mainly, I am wondering if there are Rs232 commands for switching what video output config you want to use.
> 
> 
> Anyway, hope someone has some info..
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance..



The documentation for the RS232 stuff will be found included in the ARC V2.2 download available on Anthem's public download pages. The RS232 stuff is extensive beyond belief. Check it out and you'll see what I mean.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16832791
> 
> 
> just finished watching 'The Knowing' on BD... horrible handshakes thru out the film, this is my fourth movie with this issue. I hope Anthem will address the bad handshakes. I had to power off unit to continue to watch film
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Manny



What player are you using and what sort of handshake problems were you having. Once the feature starts, there's nothing happening which should cause new handshakes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/16831957
> 
> 
> Should we upgrade if everything is working fine now?
> 
> Does it add any functionality?



If you are having no issues with your current setup, I suggest you wait until some others post here as to what they've found with the "test" firmware.

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16832791
> 
> 
> just finished watching 'The Knowing' on BD... horrible handshakes thru out the film, this is my fourth movie with this issue. I hope Anthem will address the bad handshakes. I had to power off unit to continue to watch film
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Manny



I watched this movie Saturday on my Panasonic BD30 player and it was perfect. I've never had a handshake problem with this player and the D2v.


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16833438
> 
> 
> What player are you using and what sort of handshake problems were you having. Once the feature starts, there's nothing happening which should cause new handshakes.
> 
> --Bob



my player is a Samsung BD-P3600, the handshakes are thru out the movie; sort of handshakes are the imagine turns pink, no imagine, no audio, and horizontal lines of color. I understand the handshakes during startup but not in the middle of the film. I could only correct it by pausing film and powering off the D2V, cycling thru inputs didn't help....









--Manny


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16832791
> 
> 
> just finished watching 'The Knowing' on BD... horrible handshakes thru out the film, this is my fourth movie with this issue. I hope Anthem will address the bad handshakes. I had to power off unit to continue to watch film
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Manny



I watched this movie last night. I have the Panny BD 55. No issues here.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16833679
> 
> 
> my player is a Samsung BD-P3600, the handshakes are thru out the movie; sort of handshakes are the imagine turns pink, no imagine, no audio, and horizontal lines of color. I understand the handshakes during startup but not in the middle of the film. I could only correct it by pausing film and powering off the D2V, cycling thru inputs didn't help....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Manny



You have some other issue, like a bad HDMI cable, port, or connection.


----------



## zuesmaximus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16833747
> 
> 
> You have some other issue, like a bad HDMI cable, port, or connection.



watched Pink Panther 2 on Sunday no issues...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16832791
> 
> 
> just finished watching 'The Knowing' on BD... horrible handshakes thru out the film, this is my fourth movie with this issue. I hope Anthem will address the bad handshakes. I had to power off unit to continue to watch film
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Manny



Others have already posted similar comments

but your issue is not with the Anthem. Movies

don't control handshake. If you had a bad movie

disk or the laser in your player is getting flaky which

happens with these NEW Blue Lasers. Their life span

is not as good as older SD lasers, but they are getting

better.


Even in the above scenarios - your Samsung may force

some EXTRA handshakes and oscillate back and forth

because it sees the movie coming and going so to speak.


Intermittent handshakes like that may confuse both the

player and D2v.


Like others - I watched the movie on my PS3 and Anthem

with NO PROBLEMS.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16833804
> 
> 
> watched Pink Panther 2 on Sunday no issues...



That points the figure more at the movie copy you have of Knowing.


----------



## Korey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16833366
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a txt/pdf file with all the Anthem d2v Rs232 commands.
> 
> 
> I want to program my Nevo remote, and figure that there are more commands on the Rs232 than IR..
> 
> 
> Mainly, I am wondering if there are Rs232 commands for switching what video output config you want to use.
> 
> 
> Anyway, hope someone has some info..
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance..




You can also download my Nevo Q50 file off Remote Central, it uses RS232 codes, it's for a D1 but will get you started.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/16833679
> 
> 
> my player is a Samsung BD-P3600, the handshakes are thru out the movie; sort of handshakes are the imagine turns pink, no imagine, no audio, and horizontal lines of color. I understand the handshakes during startup but not in the middle of the film. I could only correct it by pausing film and powering off the D2V, cycling thru inputs didn't help....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Manny



There are no new handshakes that happen during the movie, however the HDCP copy protection stuff gets rechecked periodically (to make sure you aren't trying to sneak in an attempt to copy the movie), and if this fails then a new handshake happens.


I'm not a big fan of the Samsung players, so my first inclination is to blame the player, but really it is more likely you have an HDMI cabling problem -- either from player to D2v or from D2v to display. The HDMI stuff goes end to end so the problem could be with either cable.


Try this: Temporarily set the player to output HDMI 480p to the D2v and set the D2v to output 480p to your display. 480p (not 480i) is the "simplest" resolution for HDMI cabling to handle. Now play an SD-DVD. If you don't get handshake failures this way but do get them when using 1080p from the player and 1080p to your display then that indicates a cable problem.


If the cable to your TV is more than say 10 feet long, that would increase the chances this is the problem cable. Also make sure the HDMI plugs are fully inserted straight into their sockets (check both ends of each cable). The HDMI plug is only a friction fit and even the weight of the cable is enough to shift it the tiny amount necessary to screw up the connection.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm surprised we've had no reports yet from folks who've installed "test" V1.47c firmware in their D2 or AVM 50. Have all the eager beavers moved to D2v and AVM 50v hardware already?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16835543
> 
> 
> I'm surprised we've had no reports yet from folks who've installed "test" V1.47c firmware in their D2 or AVM 50. Have all the eager beavers moved to D2v and AVM 50v hardware already?
> 
> --Bob



All the Eager Beavers are in HAPPY ANTHEM HEAVEN.


From my prospective 1.33 is HEAVEN










But I will give it a shot next week - after this BUSY week.


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob,

I have problem with ARC. It does not generat the test tone. the error code is 0x03.

I reported this to Anthem a few weeks ago and they told me it is because my video card is bad and the firmware did not finish. I replaced my video card yesterday, reinstalled the firmware 2.07 successfully but still get the same error from ARC. When I run the manual test tone from the Speaker Calibration menu, it works fine. I get signal for every speaker. Any idea to fix this issue? I appreciate it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16835925
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> I have problem with ARC. It does not generat the test tone. the error code is 0x03.
> 
> I reported this to Anthem a few weeks ago and they told me it is because my video card is bad and the firmware did not finish. I replaced my video card yesterday, reinstalled the firmware 2.07 successfully but still get the same error from ARC. When I run the manual test tone from the Speaker Calibration menu, it works fine. I get signal for every speaker. Any idea to fix this issue? I appreciate it.



Sorry no. You'd best call Anthem again.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16835976
> 
> 
> Sorry no. You'd best call Anthem again.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for reply.

I talked to Anthem and they told me to raise the main volume in the Level calibration menu to +6.0 and that should work. I hope it does. I will try it later when I get home.


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16835543
> 
> 
> I'm surprised we've had no reports yet from folks who've installed "test" V1.47c firmware in their D2 or AVM 50. Have all the eager beavers moved to D2v and AVM 50v hardware already?
> 
> --Bob



I have both (AVM50 and D2 with 1.33). Tried 1.47c on the AVM50 (source devices: Tivo S3, Pioneer BDP-51, Motorola 6412, PS3, Oppo 970 and JVC 5u. output device: Pioneer 111fd)... a summary after a short trial:


The good:


- switching between 480i and 1080i/720p resolutions (i.e. changing channels on the Tivo S3 in native mode, or the Motorola 6412 in 1080i/480i mode) seems to be working better now... with 1.33 I would get frequent handshake issues (no audio and/or video or messed up video or an observed infinite loop of trying to handshake, etc.) that required switching to another input on the AVM50/D2 and then back to fix. I was not able to get it to fail with this firmware.


- With 1.33 neither my AVM50 or D2 would work with some 480i 4:2:2 signals (Pioneer 51 in native playing a dvd or Oppo BD83 with 4:2:2 selected playing a dvd)... result was a strange blue tint (best I can describe it) to the picture. With 1.47c this is appears to be no longer an issue.


The bad:


- frequent snaps, crackles and pops (and booms with the subwoofer) when switching resolutions, chapter changing with dvd's, etc. Almost never observed with 1.33.


- JVC5U D-VHS deck still won't work at 1080i when connected via HDMI. 480i works but when you play a 1080i tape, I get a few seconds of proper video/audio followed by a few seconds of a black screen, followed by a few seconds of a message from the JVC complaining about not being connected to an HDCP compliant device... rinse and repeat. Observed similar behavior with 1.33. This deck works fine when directly connected to the two displays (JVC RS-20 and Pioneer 111fd) via HDMI. Works fine on component/optical with both 1.33 and 1.47c.


Those were the major differences (or lack of fixes) observed versus 1.33. I think I will rollback to 1.33 as the snap, crackle and pop problem is really bothersome.


----------



## highanddry

Hey all. AVS Forum newb checking in (sorry, didn't see a New Members forum).


I'm in the death throes of culling together outstanding gear for the home theatre room of our new house. My old system is being relegated/demoted to our great room. Just wanted to pass along my sincere thanks to all the contributors of this thread, as their insights and input have proven invaluable to me. I've been a member of other forums; the technical expertise brought to the table by the contributors of this thread is top shelf.


I attempted to read this entire thread in one sitting but passed out due to exhaustion after page 36.


I have just placed an order for the D2v to complement my other gear and look forward to set-up and trials. Fortunately, the HT room has its own budget...details of which remain unknown to my wife. She got her kitchen; I got the HT room.










I wish I could promise to contribute meaningfully to this thread, but I'll be sitting on the newb bench and watching for the foreseeable future.


Thanks to all!


----------



## ajeruns

Well, I decided to try 1.47c this morning. Got a successful install, but not very much success. The Anthem would sync with my Toshiba XA2 and Panny Blu Ray BD 55, but it was slow in doing so. I noticed that I never got the Anthem logo everytime I started it up. The worst part was that it would not sync at all with my Oppo 970 and my cable box. All sources are connected via HDMI.


I re installed 1.33 and all is back to normal.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/16836741
> 
> 
> Well, I decided to try 1.47c this morning. Got a successful install, but not very much success. The Anthem would sync with my Toshiba XA2 and Panny Blu Ray BD 55, but it was slow in doing so. I noticed that I never got the Anthem logo everytime I started it up. The worst part was that it would not sync at all with my Oppo 970 and my cable box. All sources are connected via HDMI.
> 
> 
> I re installed 1.33 and all is back to normal.



Thanks for that update







it makes me shiver in my britches


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *highanddry* /forum/post/16836721
> 
> 
> Hey all. AVS Forum newb checking in (sorry, didn't see a New Members forum).
> 
> 
> I'm in the death throes of culling together outstanding gear for the home theatre room of our new house. My old system is being relegated/demoted to our great room. Just wanted to pass along my sincere thanks to all the contributors of this thread, as their insights and input have proven invaluable to me. I've been a member of other forums; the technical expertise brought to the table by the contributors of this thread is top shelf.
> 
> 
> I attempted to read this entire thread in one sitting but passed out due to exhaustion after page 36.
> 
> 
> I have just placed an order for the D2v to complement my other gear and look forward to set-up and trials. Fortunately, the HT room has its own budget...details of which remain unknown to my wife. She got her kitchen; I got the HT room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I could promise to contribute meaningfully to this thread, but I'll be sitting on the newb bench and watching for the foreseeable future.
> 
> 
> Thanks to all!



Welcome to AVS and to the Cool Kids Thread!


There's no value in reading the entire thread. Read the first post and use the collection of post links in there to find tutorial information scattered in the thread -- what I like to call, "The Good Parts Version". Then catch up on what's new by scanning backwards from the end of the thread.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Hi All:


I am new to this forum and have been a lurker in this forum for the past 2-3 weeks looking for advice from folks upgrading to the AVM50v by selling my trust AVM30(I got my new AVM50v a few days ago). I began on the 1/1/2009post and eventually quit(brain simaply got tired and exploded! slowly recoverying...) at the end of the March posts. Wow, lots of good info from very knowlegeable people. Mr. Bob Pariseau is indeed in a class of his own. His depth of knowledge on all things Anthem is simply amazing and intimidating...plus he posesses the patience of Job to boot! How many times has he patiently told poster after poster after poster using ARC to increase their Max EQ frequency to 20KHz and not to simply trust the default 5Khz value (sigh!). Thanks Bob for all the sweat equity you put in this thread. You really are a mentor to newbies like us. Please, please, please, do not die







. We need you to help us get comfortable with these massive signal processors we've bought and then some!


My stereo(







) based system is a simple one.


1. Carver M1.0T power amp(stereo).

2. Carver Amazing Ribbon Loudspeakers.

3. Anthem AVM50v processor.

4. Denon 3910 DVD player.

5. Sony 51 inch Rear projection TV with DVI and Component inputs for hidef sources. It accepts a maximum input and output resolution 1080i, 60Hz.

6. APC H15 power supply conditioner.


The Cable box and DVD connect to the AVM50v via HDMI inputs 1 and 2 respectively. The HDMI output is connected to the Sony via an HDMI-to-DVI converter at the DVI input of the TV.


The DVD and Cable box connect to the AVM50v via HDMI cables from Monoprice. This is my first HDMI based system and thanks to AVS for their recommendation of Monoprice. Cables seem to be dirt cheap, nice looking and very reliable. The HDMI-DVI converter was from Monoprice as well.


OK...I need your help in optimizing my setup.

Cable Settings


1. The TV output type option is set at 16x9 (Other choices are 4:3 letter box and 4:3 Pan Scan)


2. Output color type is set to Y Pb Pr at the output with a resolution setting of 1080i for HD sources.


3. 4:3 override is set (same as passthrough I think) for SDTV sources. This allows one to pass 480i/i sources in their original format.


Are the above settings correct? SDTV sources look stretched on the Sony to fill the 16x9 screen. How can I improve on this, if possible?

DVD Settings


1. The output resolution is set at 480p(minimum allowable by HDMI).Choices are 720p and 1080i.


2. Color space is set at HDMI Y Pb Pr. Other choices are HDMI RGB or DVI(which I'm no longer using).


I was watching the Matrix and noticed that "Neo" (played by Keanu Reeves) looked and appeared to me to be rather tallish and skinny in his overcoat. What should the correct settings me on my DVD and in the AVM50v to correctly display this picture?


I need to take advantage of all the complex video scaling and processing features of the AVM50v since I paid a high price for it and intend to keep it around for the 10 years










Thanks everyone and God Bless!

David


PS

I ordered the mic boom stand that Bob P had recommeded a few months ago deom BHP(?). It should arrive next week but frankly, I'm scared to use this ARC thing. Too many new toys injected into my system in such a short time.


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/16836741
> 
> 
> Well, I decided to try 1.47c this morning. Got a successful install, but not very much success. The Anthem would sync with my Toshiba XA2 and Panny Blu Ray BD 55, but it was slow in doing so. I noticed that I never got the Anthem logo everytime I started it up. The worst part was that it would not sync at all with my Oppo 970 and my cable box. All sources are connected via HDMI.
> 
> 
> I re installed 1.33 and all is back to normal.



I tried 1.47c yesterday, 4 times. All different results. Over HDMI NO video at all, audio 1 source, one time. Finally i gave up, went to install 133, it disallows me..

NO GO, I'm forced right now to install 1.47c and use the component of the DVR,only and,

SACD of the OPPO83, NO HDMI!!!! NO VIDEO on HDMI at all, and I can't get back to 1.33..

WTF


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/16837603
> 
> 
> I tried 1.47c yesterday, 4 times. All different results. Over HDMI NO video at all, audio 1 source, one time. Finally i gave up, went to install 133, it disallows me..
> 
> NO GO, I'm forced right now to install 1.47c and use the component of the DVR,only and,
> 
> SACD of the OPPO83, NO HDMI!!!! NO VIDEO on HDMI at all, and I can't get back to 1.33..
> 
> WTF



Donloz,


Sorry to hear you had a similar experience. If you have an AVM 50 and think it would help, PM me with your e mail and I can send you the zip file of 1.33.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/16837689
> 
> 
> Donloz,
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear you had a similar experience. If you have an AVM 50 and think it would help, PM me with your e mail and I can send you the zip file of 1.33.



H says he HAS 1.33 - it won't install or ROLL BACK


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/16833737
> 
> 
> I watched this movie last night. I have the Panny BD 55. No issues here.



Same here, smooth play with AVM50v and PS3


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16837742
> 
> 
> H says he HAS 1.33 - it won't install or ROLL BACK



Ouch, that really s*cks!


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/16837689
> 
> 
> Donloz,
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear you had a similar experience. If you'd like, PM me with your e mail and I can send you the zip file of 1.33.



Thanx very much partner, i have 1.33 , it's also on the public page. I'm p////// because 1.33 won't go back. I'm playing with the OPPO83, and only AUDIO right now. Both SACD and a DTS ( eagles ) only AUDIO. I know the other devices, HDMI are NOT working properly. NEED 1.48 NOW!!!!


----------



## ajeruns

Sent an e mail to tech support regarding my findings. Hopefully they'll have a fix soon.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/16837603
> 
> 
> I tried 1.47c yesterday, 4 times. All different results. Over HDMI NO video at all, audio 1 source, one time. Finally i gave up, went to install 133, it disallows me..
> 
> NO GO, I'm forced right now to install 1.47c and use the component of the DVR,only and,
> 
> SACD of the OPPO83, NO HDMI!!!! NO VIDEO on HDMI at all, and I can't get back to 1.33..
> 
> WTF



First of all, don't panic. We know that roll back to V1.33 is possible because another user who tried "test" V1.47c already did it.


Now, do you get any messages from the installer when you are installing V1.47c? And how is the attempt to re-install V1.33 failing -- i.e., what sort of messages are you getting?


Go back to the basics. They apply just the same when re-installing an older version as when installing a new version.


You must not have any powered HDMI connections during the install. I recommend you simply remove wall power from everything else in your system except for the Anthem and your computer.


And you must do a Reload Factory Defaults prior to the install. This applies just the same when you are trying to go back to V1.33.


Next, it's a wonder anything ever works in Windows. So do what you can to make it as simple as possible. That means, don't have any other peripheral devices plugged in during the install and don't have ANY other programs running. For example, if your system starts up Windows Messenger when you boot up, find it in the icons in the task bar and quit out of it.


With that in mind. REBOOT YOUR COMPUTER before attempting the install. This gets rid of any detritus that might be left in there from whatever you just did -- such as a prior install.


-------------------------------


It sounds like you are getting a good install of V1.47c (i.e., without messages) even though you aren't getting good stuff over HDMI. That makes it unlikely you have done anything to brick your Anthem. It's just a matter of getting it to take the new install. There is always, in the end, the possibility you will need to use Flash Eraser to reset the programmable parts in the Anthem, but let's not jump to that.


------------------------------


As for your V1.47c install, you say you have no HDMI from your sources, but can you get the Setup menu to appear on screen? If not, Reset Factory Defaults again (using the Front panel display) and then go into Setup > Video Output (again using the Front panel) and manually re-enter you video output settings for your display.


If you moved any cables during the install -- for example when attaching the RS232 cable, keep in mind that you may have shifted the HDMI plugs in their sockets. It only takes a tiny shift to undo the connection. So carefully recheck how you have things plugged in. Make sure you are using the sockets you think you are using!


The Setup menu is an internally generated video source, so it is independent of anything going on with your source devices. Concentrate first on getting it to appear on your display. Then worry about what might be going on with your sources.


We've had numerous cases here where folks thought they had screwed up the install when it was just that their display didn't come up using the expected HDMI input when they powered it up again after unplugging it. Check that as well in your display.


All of this will sound very elementary, but if V1.47c is installing without complaint then your failure to get video may *BE* something this elementary.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/16837601
> 
> 
> Hi All:
> 
> 
> I am new to this forum and have been a lurker in this forum for the past 2-3 weeks looking for advice from folks upgrading to the AVM50v by selling my trust AVM30(I got my new AVM50v a few days ago). I began on the 1/1/2009post and eventually quit(brain simaply got tired and exploded! slowly recoverying...) at the end of the March posts. Wow, lots of good info from very knowlegeable people. Mr. Bob Pariseau is indeed in a class of his own. His depth of knowledge on all things Anthem is simply amazing and intimidating...plus he posesses the patience of Job to boot! How many times has he patiently told poster after poster after poster using ARC to increase their Max EQ frequency to 20KHz and not to simply trust the default 5Khz value (sigh!). Thanks Bob for all the sweat equity you put in this thread. You really are a mentor to newbies like us. Please, please, please, do not die
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . We need you to help us get comfortable with these massive signal processors we've bought and then some!
> 
> 
> My stereo(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) based system is a simple one.
> 
> 
> 1. Carver M1.0T power amp(stereo).
> 
> 2. Carver Amazing Ribbon Loudspeakers.
> 
> 3. Anthem AVM50v processor.
> 
> 4. Denon 3910 DVD player.
> 
> 5. Sony 51 inch Rear projection TV with DVI and Component inputs for hidef sources. It accepts a maximum input and output resolution 1080i, 60Hz.
> 
> 6. APC H15 power supply conditioner.
> 
> 
> The Cable box and DVD connect to the AVM50v via HDMI inputs 1 and 2 respectively. The HDMI output is connected to the Sony via an HDMI-to-DVI converter at the DVI input of the TV.
> 
> 
> The DVD and Cable box connect to the AVM50v via HDMI cables from Monoprice. This is my first HDMI based system and thanks to AVS for their recommendation of Monoprice. Cables seem to be dirt cheap, nice looking and very reliable. The HDMI-DVI converter was from Monoprice as well.
> 
> 
> OK...I need your help in optimizing my setup.
> 
> Cable Settings
> 
> 
> 1. The TV output type option is set at 16x9 (Other choices are 4:3 letter box and 4:3 Pan Scan)
> 
> 
> 2. Output color type is set to Y Pb Pr at the output with a resolution setting of 1080i for HD sources.
> 
> 
> 3. 4:3 override is set (same as passthrough I think) for SDTV sources. This allows one to pass 480i/i sources in their original format.
> 
> 
> Are the above settings correct? SDTV sources look stretched on the Sony to fill the 16x9 screen. How can I improve on this, if possible?
> 
> DVD Settings
> 
> 
> 1. The output resolution is set at 480p(minimum allowable by HDMI).Choices are 720p and 1080i.
> 
> 
> 2. Color space is set at HDMI Y Pb Pr. Other choices are HDMI RGB or DVI(which I'm no longer using).
> 
> 
> I was watching the Matrix and noticed that "Neo" (played by Keanu Reeves) looked and appeared to me to be rather tallish and skinny in his overcoat. What should the correct settings me on my DVD and in the AVM50v to correctly display this picture?
> 
> 
> I need to take advantage of all the complex video scaling and processing features of the AVM50v since I paid a high price for it and intend to keep it around for the 10 years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone and God Bless!
> 
> David
> 
> 
> PS
> 
> I ordered the mic boom stand that Bob P had recommeded a few months ago deom BHP(?). It should arrive next week but frankly, I'm scared to use this ARC thing. Too many new toys injected into my system in such a short time.



Don't be scared of ARC. Before you know it, ARC will be your new best friend.


In the first post of this thread you will find post links to a lot of tutorial stuff scattered through the thread. Look in particular for the link to "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs". That will give you all the basic tips and tricks about how to set up your video.


The way to do this stuff is to approach it logically. FIRST get the Anthem talking properly to your display. Then pick one source at a time and start refining your setup for it (settings in the source device and also in the Anthem). Again see that post for the basics.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Thanks Bob...I'll check out the first posts


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16835543
> 
> 
> I'm surprised we've had no reports yet from folks who've installed "test" V1.47c firmware in their D2 or AVM 50. Have all the eager beavers moved to D2v and AVM 50v hardware already?
> 
> --Bob



Another "eager beaver" here -- installed V1.47c firmware on my D2 (original model).


In general, I'm pleased with this. The HDMI handshake process works better -- I no longer have to worry about the handshake failing, requiring me to change inputs in order to try the handshake again (or at worst, to power cycle the D2). Instead, the handshake seems to work every time now.


The ultimate "stress test" for HDMI handshake has been to use my TivoHD in "native" mode and change between 480i, 720p, and 1080i channels. V1.47c works better that my previous V1.33 (or whatever it was, it's been so long since we had any new firmware updates).


V1.47c works fine with my Samsung BD-UP5000 combo Blu-Ray/HD-DVD player also. My projector is a JVC RS-1 D-ILA.


The only downside I've seen with the new firmware is some occasional "pops" in the audio when switching.


It's a keeper -- I'm not going to revert back to the previous version.


- Dave


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Korey* /forum/post/16834300
> 
> 
> You can also download my Nevo Q50 file off Remote Central, it uses RS232 codes, it's for a D1 but will get you started.



Awesome... will try it, thanx,,


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/16838841
> 
> 
> Another "eager beaver" here -- installed V1.47c firmware on my D2 (original model).
> 
> 
> In general, I'm pleased with this. The HDMI handshake process works better -- I no longer have to worry about the handshake failing, requiring me to change inputs in order to try the handshake again (or at worst, to power cycle the D2). Instead, the handshake seems to work every time now.
> 
> 
> The ultimate "stress test" for HDMI handshake has been to use my TivoHD in "native" mode and change between 480i, 720p, and 1080i channels. V1.47c works better that my previous V1.33 (or whatever it was, it's been so long since we had any new firmware updates).
> 
> 
> V1.47c works fine with my Samsung BD-UP5000 combo Blu-Ray/HD-DVD player also. My projector is a JVC RS-1 D-ILA.
> 
> 
> The only downside I've seen with the new firmware is some occasional "pops" in the audio when switching.
> 
> 
> It's a keeper -- I'm not going to revert back to the previous version.
> 
> 
> - Dave



I may have to upgrade to that firmware. When do you expect Anthem will make V1.47C the official firmware?


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/16839438
> 
> 
> I may have to upgrade to that firmware. When do you expect Anthem will make V1.47C the official firmware?



I'm with you. I won't touch it until it becomes official! My D2 works flawless now... No playing with firmware unless Anthem makes it official.


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16840739
> 
> 
> I'm with you. I won't touch it until it becomes official! My D2 works flawless now... No playing with firmware unless Anthem makes it official.



Yes, but the official old V1.33 suffers from HDMI handshake problems that were never fixed. I've had numerous complaints from family members that they occasionally couldn't get the system to sync when powered up or when changing some channels.


A workaround is to set my HDTivo to have a fixed 1080i output regardless of the channel/source, or worse, to use component inputs instead of HDMI. But both of these introduce compromises in performance that I find unacceptable in a high-end system based on a D2:

- fixed 1080i output on my DVR requires conversion of 720p channels --> 1080i --> 1080p with image-degrading progressive-to-interlace-to-progressive conversion,

- use of component instead of HDMI introduces an extra digital --> analog --> digital conversion of video.


I also set my D2 and projector to 1080p24 whenever watching Blu-Ray movies so I get the best performance from that source, and wish the D2 could reliably convert 480i/60 DVDs to 1080p/24 without occasional stuttering (I haven't tested this yet with V1.47c but assume it still doesn't work right).


So I'm pleased that the new V1.47c seems to work well enough to let me use HDMI inputs in their native mode to the D2 without loss of sync when switching inputs or channels. I'm happy that Anthem is again putting some effort into fixing the D2, now that a D2 to D2v upgrade is not economically attractive.


- Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/16839438
> 
> 
> I may have to upgrade to that firmware. When do you expect Anthem will make V1.47C the official firmware?



There's no way to know. They may want to get a few other fixes in (more "test" versions) before that happens.


If they decide to make V1.47c itself into an "official" release (most likely to be called V1.5), that could happen quite quickly. Otherwise it's done when it's done.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I had previously reported a problem where V2.06 and V2.07 firmware produced loss of audio when changing audio formats with my Comcast HD/DVR. For some reason, this was most easily reproduced by starting up a recorded program on the DVR. Once the audio was lost it STAYED lost, although you could cure the problem by interrupting the audio stream (Pause/Play or Skip Forward/Skip Back) and then waiting about 5 seconds after doing that.


This problem was particularly puzzling because my Comcast is hooked up via Component video and Optical Digital audio, so it was not an HDMI input problem.


In any event, this problem appears to be FIXED in V2.07c! I've not been able to reproduced this loss of audio.

--Bob


----------



## malcolmp6

Can someone please take a look at my measurements and see how they look?

I played a movie and it sounds phenomenal. Dialog is crisp and bass is excellent. But just want to be sure what the experts think.


Thanks in advance.

 

anthem.doc 198.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malcolmp6* /forum/post/16841644
> 
> 
> Can someone please take a look at my measurements and see how they look?
> 
> I played a movie and it sounds phenomenal. Dialog is crisp and bass is excellent. But just want to be sure what the experts think.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



You are in very good shape. These results SHOULD sound excellent.


My only comment is that ARC is applying a high crossover to all 4 of your surrounds. Based on the red Measured curves, it looks like that's natural for your surrounds -- they don't extend into the bass very much.


Now this is not a serious problem. Your sub will fill in nicely for those. But having surrounds that are bass limited compared to your front speakers may mean you will hear some difference in the timbre of sounds as they pan around the room.


This is very much in the category of fine tweaking. There's nothing you really HAVE to do now except enjoy.


But check to see if your surrounds have a setting that allows them to produce more bass -- perhaps a bass port that you can open. If your surrounds have separate input jacks for bass make sure those are properly wired --usually by buss bars cross-connecting them to the other input jacks. However it is just as likely this is simply the designed response from these surrounds. Just keep that in mind the next time you think about upgrading speakers.

--Bob


----------



## malcolmp6

Thanks Bob for your response. I am using Paradigm Studio 100 v4 as fronts, center CC-690 and ADP 590 v4 for surrounds. No settings on the speakers for bass. Guess there is not much I can do. I have my surrounds wall mounted about 7-8 feet high.


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16838419
> 
> 
> First of all, don't panic. We know that roll back to V1.33 is possible because another user who tried "test" V1.47c already did it.
> 
> 
> Now, do you get any messages from the installer when you are installing V1.47c? And how is the attempt to re-install V1.33 failing -- i.e., what sort of messages are you getting?
> 
> 
> Go back to the basics. They apply just the same when re-installing an older version as when installing a new version.
> 
> 
> You must not have any powered HDMI connections during the install. I recommend you simply remove wall power from everything else in your system except for the Anthem and your computer.
> 
> 
> And you must do a Reload Factory Defaults prior to the install. This applies just the same when you are trying to go back to V1.33.
> 
> 
> Next, it's a wonder anything ever works in Windows. So do what you can to make it as simple as possible. That means, don't have any other peripheral devices plugged in during the install and don't have ANY other programs running. For example, if your system starts up Windows Messenger when you boot up, find it in the icons in the task bar and quit out of it.
> 
> 
> With that in mind. REBOOT YOUR COMPUTER before attempting the install. This gets rid of any detritus that might be left in there from whatever you just did -- such as a prior install.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------
> 
> 
> It sounds like you are getting a good install of V1.47c (i.e., without messages) even though you aren't getting good stuff over HDMI. That makes it unlikely you have done anything to brick your Anthem. It's just a matter of getting it to take the new install. There is always, in the end, the possibility you will need to use Flash Eraser to reset the programmable parts in the Anthem, but let's not jump to that.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> As for your V1.47c install, you say you have no HDMI from your sources, but can you get the Setup menu to appear on screen? If not, Reset Factory Defaults again (using the Front panel display) and then go into Setup > Video Output (again using the Front panel) and manually re-enter you video output settings for your display.
> 
> 
> If you moved any cables during the install -- for example when attaching the RS232 cable, keep in mind that you may have shifted the HDMI plugs in their sockets. It only takes a tiny shift to undo the connection. So carefully recheck how you have things plugged in. Make sure you are using the sockets you think you are using!
> 
> 
> The Setup menu is an internally generated video source, so it is independent of anything going on with your source devices. Concentrate first on getting it to appear on your display. Then worry about what might be going on with your sources.
> 
> 
> We've had numerous cases here where folks thought they had screwed up the install when it was just that their display didn't come up using the expected HDMI input when they powered it up again after unplugging it. Check that as well in your display.
> 
> 
> All of this will sound very elementary, but if V1.47c is installing without complaint then your failure to get video may *BE* something this elementary.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob, thanx for the info. I have tried over and over again with the V1.47c, and i still have no video over HDMI. After the download of V1.47c, it says;


INSTALLS FINE: nice green check mark

Firmware install completed successfully.

Statement D2 code update complete.


I have installed several updates in the past, with NO problems. Now when i try the V1.33 and V1.31, I get this message.


CANNOT CONNECT TO OKI BOOT LOADER.


I may now have a brick. Any idea's


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/16841888
> 
> 
> Hi Bob, thanx for the info. I have tried over and over again with the V1.47c, and i still have no video over HDMI. After the download of V1.47c, it says;
> 
> 
> INSTALLS FINE: nice green check mark
> 
> Firmware install completed successfully.
> 
> Statement D2 code update complete.
> 
> 
> I have installed several updates in the past, with NO problems. Now when i try the V1.33 and V1.31, I get this message.
> 
> 
> CANNOT CONNECT TO OKI BOOT LOADER.
> 
> 
> I may now have a brick. Any idea's



Give Anthem tech support a call.


The problem that is blocking the V1.33 install can likely be fixed by use of the Flash Eraser utility program (a Windows program that forces the programmable parts of the Anthem into a reset state ready to receive a new install). They can walk you through that. However, I think Anthem may first want to figure out why V1.47c says it is installing cleanly but you have no video.


Have you checked to see if you can get the internally generated video (i.e., the Setup menu) on the Component video output?


It is possible the V1.47c install is also failing (i.e., that there is a bug in the installer which is causing it to incorrectly report success). If so, the Flash Eraser may also fix your V1.47c problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malcolmp6* /forum/post/16841828
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob for your response. I am using Paradigm Studio 100 v4 as fronts, center CC-690 and ADP 590 v4 for surrounds. No settings on the speakers for bass. Guess there is not much I can do. I have my surrounds wall mounted about 7-8 feet high.



Well I wouldn't worry about it if there's no obvious way to get more bass out of the surrounds. As I said, your sub will fill in just fine. You won't be missing any audio.


It would be more of a problem if the front speakers were showing weak bass but they are fine.


So . . . . Time To Declare Victory!

--Bob


----------



## jamhead

I apologize in advance if this is the wrong place to ask this question. I'm currently interested in purchasing a used MCA20 and had asked Anthem the approximate age based on serial number. I guess their serial number tracking isn't that great because I couldn't get a definitive answer.


The amp I'm looking at has a green light (I know current ones are blue). Could anyone take a guess as to the age of it (I'm not sure when Anthem changed the lights from green to blue).


I guess the serial number in this case is useless.


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16841967
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> 
> The problem that is blocking the V1.33 install can likely be fixed by use of the Flash Eraser utility program (a Windows program that forces the programmable parts of the Anthem into a reset state ready to receive a new install). They can walk you through that. However, I think Anthem may first want to figure out why V1.47c says it is installing cleanly but you have no video.
> 
> 
> Have you checked to see if you can get the internally generated video (i.e., the Setup menu) on the Component video output?
> 
> 
> It is possible the V1.47c install is also failing (i.e., that there is a bug in the installer which is causing it to incorrectly report success). If so, the Flash Eraser may also fix your V1.47c problem.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanx again. I just sent an email to Anthem with the issue.

The only time i see video, is when i use the component out of the DVR. The D2 HDMI out is my main out, only. When i toggle between sat1 and sat2, sat2 being the component, this is when i get video, and on sat1-hdmi, i get audio but no video. Can i run the flash eraser now, or should i wait for Anthem's response..


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/16842172
> 
> 
> Can i run the flash eraser now, or should i wait for Anthem's response..



You can run the flash eraser anytime.


Run it more than once before trying the 1.33 Instal


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/16842172
> 
> 
> Bob, thanx again. I just sent an email to Anthem with the issue.
> 
> The only time i see video, is when i use the component out of the DVR. The D2 HDMI out is my main out, only. When i toggle between sat1 and sat2, sat2 being the component, this is when i get video, and on sat1-hdmi, i get audio but no video. Can i run the flash eraser now, or should i wait for Anthem's response..



So if you use Component video input -- from the DVR -- you *DO* get HDMI video output to your display? If so the video board and video processor themselves are live and the problem would appear to be in your HDMI input chips. There's one such chip for HDMI input sockets 1/2 and another for sockets 3/4. If the problem is just with the setup for one of those two chips than the other 2 input sockets should work.


And yet you can't get the Setup menu to come up on your display? Is that correct? If you CAN get Setup to show on your display then the internal video paths in the video board are also working.


Double-check your Setup > Source Setup for each source to make sure the proper HDMI input is being sent to the scaler for each of them. It's possible your Setup > Source Setup settings didn't get reloaded properly after the V1.47c install.


While you are in Setup, also check your Setup > Video Output settings to make sure they look like they got reloaded correctly.


For a problem like this, your best bet is to get Anthem on the phone. It is a lot easier to diagnose this stuff and discuss next steps in a phone call rather than emails (or posts).


It would help Anthem if you can hold off a bit running the Flash Eraser so that they can see what's happened to your unit due to the V1.47c install. But if you'd rather not go through that with them, sure you can run it now. There are two Flash Erasers on the password protected download page. Just be sure you grab the one for your model.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If anyone who is trying "test" V1.47c with an original D2 or AVM 50 also happens to have AppleTV, Anthem was supposed to try to port the HDMI fix for AppleTV from the HDMI code for the D2v/AVM50v into the HDMI code for the D2/AVM50. It's complicated because the HDMI hardware on the older units is also older.


So anyway, if you have that combo, you might want to give HDMI from AppleTV another try and report back.

--Bob


----------



## Charlie_Phogg

Just picked up my D2v. 10 1/2 weeks from order to delivery. It came loaded with 2.07 firmware. It will be the weekend before I have time to do any setup on it but I'm looking forward to it.


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16842336
> 
> 
> So if you use Component video input -- from the DVR -- you *DO* get HDMI video output to your display? If so the video board and video processor themselves are live and the problem would appear to be in your HDMI input chips. There's one such chip for HDMI input sockets 1/2 and another for sockets 3/4. If the problem is just with the setup for one of those two chips than the other 2 input sockets should work.
> 
> 
> And yet you can't get the Setup menu to come up on your display? Is that correct? If you CAN get Setup to show on your display then the internal video paths in the video board are also working.
> 
> 
> Double-check your Setup > Source Setup for each source to make sure the proper HDMI input is being sent to the scaler for each of them. It's possible your Setup > Source Setup settings didn't get reloaded properly after the V1.47c install.
> 
> 
> While you are in Setup, also check your Setup > Video Output settings to make sure they look like they got reloaded correctly.
> 
> 
> For a problem like this, your best bet is to get Anthem on the phone. It is a lot easier to diagnose this stuff and discuss next steps in a phone call rather than emails (or posts).
> 
> 
> It would help Anthem if you can hold off a bit running the Flash Eraser so that they can see what's happened to your unit due to the V1.47c install. But if you'd rather not go through that with them, sure you can run it now. There are two Flash Erasers on the password protected download page. Just be sure you grab the one for your model.
> 
> --Bob
























I'm back, on V1.33 that is. I did a Flash Erase and loaded V1.33. All functions of the D2 are back to normal. Have full video again, what a pain in da butt this was. I also reloaded ARC. Needless to say, I won't install V1.47c again, but I still have full confidence in Anthem's TEST site and their firmware.

Again, Thanx very much


----------



## ajeruns

Received an e mail from Nick in regards to V 1.47c. Apparently, V 1.47c is intended only for models with the later version of the power supply, which does not have a toroidal transformer. Of course, as luck would have it, I have an early model power supply with the toroidal transformer!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/16844585
> 
> 
> Received an e mail from Nick in regards to V 1.47c. Apparently, V 1.47c is intended only for models with the later version of the power supply, which does not have a toroidal transformer. Of course, as luck would have it, I have an early model power supply with the toroidal transformer!!



Thanks for the heads up! They changed the video board at about the same time they changed that power supply, so that may be part of the dependency.


I presume they'll have to make the firmware backward compatible before it goes "official" -- or change the installer so it doesn't try to install on the older hardware.


Ain't "test" firmware exciting?

--Bob


----------



## Donloz

[


Ain't "test" firmware exciting?

--Bob[/quote]


Ya, it's loads of fun.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16844691
> 
> 
> Thanks for the heads up! They changed the video board at about the same time they changed that power supply, so that may be part of the dependency.
> 
> 
> I presume they'll have to make the firmware backward compatible before it goes "official" -- or change the installer so it doesn't try to install on the older hardware.
> 
> 
> Ain't "test" firmware exciting?
> 
> --Bob



When did they change the power supply? Do we know that? I got my D2 in early Feb. 2008. One of the first ones with the ARC. That would have the new power supply, correct?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/16845654
> 
> 
> When did they change the power supply? Do we know that? I got my D2 in early Feb. 2008. One of the first ones with the ARC. That would have the new power supply, correct?



The power supply change happened about the time they switched from the green to the red video board. This was WELL before ARC first shipped in any form. Spring 2007 as I recall.


By the way, I checked the release notes again this evening for "test" V1.47c on the password protected download page, and there's still no mention in there that this firmware isn't applicable to all D2 and AVM 50 units.


However, although it hasn't happened recently, there is precedent for Anthem putting up "test" firmware that is only applicable to folks with specific versions of the hardware or folks using specific source/display devices. They do this because they want to confirm a fix or feature before they go to the effort of generalizing it. Since we here in this thread tend to pounce on each new version as it comes out, sometimes we'll get bit by that.

--Bob


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/16843319
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm back, on V1.33 that is. I did a Flash Erase and loaded V1.33. All functions of the D2 are back to normal. Have full video again, what a pain in da butt this was. I also reloaded ARC. Needless to say, I won't install V1.47c again, but I still have full confidence in Anthem's TEST site and their firmware.
> 
> Again, Thanx very much



Thanks to the posts here I was able to avert what was almost could have been a disaster.


I had the same problem as yourself: v1.47c almost bricked my D2-the install failed and when I turned on the D2 in the hope maybe something would still work, there was no functionality at all. Being Friday an' all, I was not looking forward to a weekend without TV, hey I might have to speak to the better half.










When I tried to reinstall v1.33 I initially got the message "Verify failed" in one of the initial steps of the firmware upgrade. Eventually, after much persistence (install/reinstall repeatedly) I too got the OKI bootloader error message. Ultimately, v1.33 was not going to install. The thought of sending in the D2 for a factory reset was not appealing.


I was having no luck with reinstalling v1.33. So this is what worked for me:

-flash erase (again, thanks to the advice here-I would not have worked that out by myself)

- installed the firmware using an older version (v1.21d)

- upgraded to v1.33

- breathed a sigh of relief (not an actual step, but it did happen).


So I guess, us D2 owners will have to wait for the version with the correct installer.


I am a Rogers customer (Toronto) and have the SA 8300 HD PVR. My reason for upgrading is simple: the HDMI handshakes when changing channels are irritating, not so much because they are not seamless, but because if I go from an analog channel to HDTV, all is good, however, if i reverse the process I can end up losing the signal because the HDMI connection fails. I then have to turn off/on the D2 to get the video back. Same might happen when moving between TV and DVD (blu-ray) and back.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajeruns* /forum/post/16844585
> 
> 
> Received an e mail from Nick in regards to V 1.47c. Apparently, V 1.47c is intended only for models with the later version of the power supply, which does not have a toroidal transformer. Of course, as luck would have it, I have an early model power supply with the toroidal transformer!!



That is very STRANGE - I'm glad I didn't try 1.47c. My serial

number is very close to #1 and has the Toroidal transformer.


I need to know how Software and a Toroidal Transformer work together.

Maybe Anthem loads Software into a Transformer


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/16845865
> 
> 
> I am a Rogers customer (Toronto) and have the SA 8300 HD PVR. My reason for upgrading is simple: the HDMI handshakes when changing channels are irritating, not so much because they are not seamless, but because if I go from an analog channel to HDTV, all is good, however, if i reverse the process I can end up losing the signal because the HDMI connection fails. I then have to turn off/on the D2 to get the video back. Same might happen when moving between TV and DVD (blu-ray) and back.



Most of us with a SA8300HDPVR have quit using the HDMI and have returned to the component connection with the digital audio cable.


The D2 / D2v do not play well with the SA HDMI connections (and vice-versa).


Since the SA HD DVR have at most 1080i you do not lose anything with the analog component connection.


Mike


----------



## Donloz

I am a Rogers customer (Toronto) and have the SA 8300 HD PVR. My reason for upgrading is simple: the HDMI handshakes when changing channels are irritating, not so much because they are not seamless, but because if I go from an analog channel to HDTV, all is good, however, if i reverse the process I can end up losing the signal because the HDMI connection fails. I then have to turn off/on the D2 to get the video back. Same might happen when moving between TV and DVD (blu-ray) and back.[/quote]


Glad to see your back up running:









This is the same reason I TRIED V1.47c I use both HDMI and component out of my DVR and toggle using SAT1-2..Why didn't Anthem say that this firmware was ONLY for the NEWER old D2, and not for us original old,old,old, users with that funky power supply. What a bunch of crap


----------



## Johnsteph10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16846384
> 
> 
> Most of us with a SA8300HDPVR have quit using the HDMI and have returned to the component connection with the digital audio cable.
> 
> 
> The D2 / D2v do not play well with the SA HDMI connections (and vice-versa).
> 
> 
> Since the SA HD DVR have at most 1080i you do not lose anything with the analog component connection.
> 
> 
> Mike



...and just to emphasize that it is the SA HDMI that is the problem, not the Anthem. SA cable boxes are well known to misbehave with a LOT of other equipment (pre/pros, TVs, receivers, etc.) = pretty much anything else with HDMI.


----------



## jayray

So far I haven't had any issues using hdmi from my Rogers SA 8300 PVR to my D2v.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16846988
> 
> 
> So far I haven't had any issues using hdmi from my Rogers SA 8300 PVR to my D2v.
> 
> John



Are you using it at a single output resolution (e.g. 1080i)? The problems seem to come when folks want to use 480i as well from it.

--Bob


----------



## drlopezmdfacc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15338781
> 
> 
> If your problem is a setting in the Wii I won't be able to help you, but the most common mistake people make setting up the D2 for Component input (and HDMI output) is failing to realize that you need to make entries in two different lines in Setup > Source Setup. You have to put Component in the Scaler Input line and you also have to specify the set of Component jacks in the Component In line.
> 
> 
> Also double check that you have the Component cables from the Wii connected to a set of Component INPUT jacks on the D2 and not to the Component OUTPUT jacks.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I take it you are using a stereo audio RCA cable pair from the Wii. This should be pretty simple. The most common mistake is misreading the labeling on the D2's back panel and thus connecting up to a pair of stereo audio input jacks different from what you intended.
> 
> 
> If you are using the stereo audio input jacks for Tape (and again, be sure you are using input jacks and not output jacks), then in Setup > Source Setup > Tape, use Audio In = ANLG DSP, and Auto Dig = NO.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Finally, if you are using the remote control supplied with the D2, remember that you change input sources by using the buttons near the BOTTOM of the remote. The buttons near the TOP of the remote are for configuring the remote itself to control devices other than the D2.
> 
> 
> And be sure you have the remote set to control the Main path of the D2 (rather than Zone 2, Zone 3, or Record) -- press the "Main" button in the green outlined section at the upper left of the remote.
> 
> --Bob



My Wii came with a single composite (yellow) connector and two RCA audio jacks. Unable to connect and get a video signal. Audio comes in fine. What gives? I guess I will order the component cable.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/16847476
> 
> 
> My Wii came with a single composite (yellow) connector and two RCA audio jacks. Unable to connect and get a video signal. Audio comes in fine. What gives? I guess I will order the component cable.



I'm sorry I don't know anything about the Wii.


However, Composite video (almost the lowest quality possible video connection) only operates as "pass through" in the Anthem. That is, it is only available on the Composite video output of the Anthem. It is never processed the way other video sources are processed. It is never converted to Component video or to HDMI for output for example.


The only thing the Anthem does with Composite video input is switch the Composite input jack you have selected to the Anthem's Composite output. I.e., you'd have to run a Composite cable from that Anthem output to your TV and select that as input on your TV to see the video.


See Section 2.1 of the manual.


-------------------------------------------------


If the Wii supports S-video, Component, or HDMI video output, then you could use any of those to connect it to the Anthem for full video processing.


Another alternative is to get an inexpensive Composite to S-video converter from, say, Radio Shack. These are cheap gadgets you put on the end of the Composite video cable from the Wii -- plugging the S-video connector coming out its other end into an S-video input on the Anthem. The quality isn't great, but then Composite video is not great quality to begin with.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16845690
> 
> 
> The power supply change happened about the time they switched from the green to the red video board. This was WELL before ARC first shipped in any form. Spring 2007 as I recall.
> 
> 
> By the way, I checked the release notes again this evening for "test" V1.47c on the password protected download page, and there's still no mention in there that this firmware isn't applicable to all D2 and AVM 50 units.
> 
> 
> However, although it hasn't happened recently, there is precedent for Anthem putting up "test" firmware that is only applicable to folks with specific versions of the hardware or folks using specific source/display devices. They do this because they want to confirm a fix or feature before they go to the effort of generalizing it. Since we here in this thread tend to pounce on each new version as it comes out, sometimes we'll get bit by that.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob for confirming this. Sounds like this test V1.47c might be a good update.


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/16847812
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob for confirming this. Sounds like this test V1.47c might be a good update.



For what it's worth (FWIW), my D2 that seems to run V1.47c fine was bought Spring 2007 -- not sure what power supply it has.


And my initial firmware 1.47c installation failed -- I "crossed my fingers" and it loaded properly the 2nd time.


- Dave


----------



## dmusoke

Hi:


I have a simple stereo system using my new AVM50v. I connect the speakers using the LF/RF outputs of the multi-channel connector. I have set the speakers to large in the AVM50v setup with the remaing channel options disabled. Is this the right way to connect my system? I had expected to see dedicated stereo outputs on the pre-pro but couldn't find any, hence the MC connection. When I play a MC CD/DVD, will the surround and center channels be properly mixed into proper 2-channel mode using the LF/RF outputs?


Thanks,

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You are all set. You are using the correct outputs. And if your speakers are truly full range you will get all the source content mixed into them. Unlike many pre-pros, even an LFE input channel will be steered to LF/RF.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16847153
> 
> 
> Are you using it at a single output resolution (e.g. 1080i)? The problems seem to come when folks want to use 480i as well from it.
> 
> --Bob



I believe it is set to 1080i and 480i only. I have changed channels between SD and HD without any problems.

John


----------



## Charlie_Phogg

Got my new D2v setup and running today. It was pretty painless as the D2v basic setup is very similar to the old AVM-30.


Here are my results for the first ARC run through. This is in a carpeted living room environment with no treatments at all. The surrounds and rear (6.1 system) are small speakers with only twin 4" drivers + tweeter so I don't expect them to go very low (and they don't!) but they are about as big as I can go in a living room.


The L-C-R speakers will be replaced as soon Jim Salk finishes up my HT2-TL's so I'll be rerunning ARC whenever they get here but I wanted to get a baseline.


BTW, I used Vista 64 with the PCMCIA CardBus adapter from ebay someone here recommend. It worked flawlessly and was plug and play all the way.


Any comments or analysis would be appreciated.


CF


----------



## KenLand

Hi Guys,

Long time Anthem fan here. Started with an early D1 and then upgraded to the D2 in 200... and who knows.


Running Mackie HR626 active studio monitors with custom XLR cables with 60" Elite Kuro and Panny AE3000 as displays and Panny BD55, DTV, and HTPC as sources. (oh yeah, Dunlavy sub, and Oppo player for DVD-A)


Anyway, I was inactive for a year or two and moved to a new house and am just now (re)setting up my HT.

Before I began, I updated to 1.33, and am extremely happy with the results so far, but have a few questions.


1. Can/Does D2 handle DTS-MA, etc.?

2. Do D2 owners get ARC for "Free"? Or what?

3. What's the consensus on upgrading to D2v? (beyond the obvious what are the tangible benefits sonically and visually)

4. Is there are display for the resolution of the current input?


Hope you'll forgive the laziness, but I'm about 300+ pages behind










Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/16850912
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Long time Anthem fan here. Started with an early D1 and then upgraded to the D2 in 200... and who knows.
> 
> 
> Running Mackie HR626 active studio monitors with custom XLR cables with 60" Elite Kuro and Panny AE3000 as displays and Panny BD55, DTV, and HTPC as sources. (oh yeah, Dunlavy sub, and Oppo player for DVD-A)
> 
> 
> Anyway, I was inactive for a year or two and moved to a new house and am just now (re)setting up my HT.
> 
> Before I began, I updated to 1.33, and am extremely happy with the results so far, but have a few questions.
> 
> 
> 1. Can/Does D2 handle DTS-MA, etc.?
> 
> 2. Do D2 owners get ARC for "Free"? Or what?
> 
> 3. What's the consensus on upgrading to D2v? (beyond the obvious what are the tangible benefits sonically and visually)
> 
> 4. Is there are display for the resolution of the current input?
> 
> 
> Hope you'll forgive the laziness, but I'm about 300+ pages behind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ken



1) For your D2, get a Blu-Ray player that decodes TrueHD and DTS-HD to HDMI LPCM. That will get you the full quality for these audio tracks. The Oppo BDP-83 and the Sony PS3 are examples of players that do that.


2) Although ARC was bundled with the D2 for later buyers, if you are an earlier buyer you will need to purchase an ARC upgrade kit. This costs about $400. There is no hardware installation involved, so no need to send the D2 back to Anthem or have your dealer do anything other than order the kit for you.


3) There's no easy way to quantify the difference between the D2 and the D2v. I moved to a D2v expecting the video to be better (and it was), but was also surprised to find the audio better. The D2v firmware still has some bugs in it that Anthem is working out.


4) Press Select several times on the D2 remote to see various status displays including the resolution and frame rate of the current video input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16849699
> 
> 
> Got my new D2v setup and running today. It was pretty painless as the D2v basic setup is very similar to the old AVM-30.
> 
> 
> Here are my results for the first ARC run through. This is in a carpeted living room environment with no treatments at all. The surrounds and rear (6.1 system) are small speakers with only twin 4" drivers + tweeter so I don't expect them to go very low (and they don't!) but they are about as big as I can go in a living room.
> 
> 
> The L-C-R speakers will be replaced as soon Jim Salk finishes up my HT2-TL's so I'll be rerunning ARC whenever they get here but I wanted to get a baseline.
> 
> 
> BTW, I used Vista 64 with the PCMCIA CardBus adapter from ebay someone here recommend. It worked flawlessly and was plug and play all the way.
> 
> 
> Any comments or analysis would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> CF



You are in very good shape for a first try.


You will probably find you can raise Max EQ Frequency target in the Targets window -- perhaps all the way up to 20KHz -- without seeing any problems in the lower frequencies. That will tell ARC it is OK to apply correction further up in frequency. No need to re-Measure to try that. Just open your current results in ARC advanced mode, make the change in the Targets window, accept that change, and re-Calculate. If you like the chart results, then re-Upload and give it a listen.


I take it you only have one Rear surround speaker.


Your 2 Side surrounds and your Rear are weak in bass compared to your fronts -- which is why ARC has applied a relatively high crossover to them. ARC has that covered with your subwoofer, but it is worth checking if there is something simple you need to do to enable more bass output from those surrounds.


I'm a bit puzzled why ARC's calculated curve for the sub drops off at 20Hz. It's more curiosity than a problem. I suspect there is something going on below 20Hz that ARC is dealing with which we don't see on the charts.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab

Anyone get clicking when bitstreaming the Sleeping Beauty Dungeon extra? It's the only DTS-HR 7.1 track I think I have, and when I play it I get some clicking for about half of it.


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16851057
> 
> 
> You are in very good shape for a first try.



Thanks Bob. I was pretty happy with the results and ended up listening to one of my favorite concert DVD's after my post last night and am very happy with the sound.


As for the surrounds and rear being weak on bass it is to be expected from 4" drivers. It was a comprise that was made to put surround in the living room.


I saw that sudden drop in the sub below 20 Hz and find it a pit puzzling too since it is a sealed sub and should have a more gentle roll-off. I'd be interested in what ARC measured below 20 Hz but unfortunately it doesn't display that.


----------



## KenLand

Hey Thanks Bob!


I was able to use the input display to verify my BD55 is converting MA and TrueHD to 96KHz PCM when properly configured. Otherwise they were converted to 640kbps DD or 1536kbps DTS. But I guess only the D2v will actually accept and process the advanced bitstreams?


I'll definitely try out the ARC. I was talking to the head engineer a few years back about it at CEDIA. He seemed pretty pumped then. I'll definitely try it out for $400. (although I imagine it's bundled with the upgrade to D2v so I'll have to decide...)


What are reviewers/users saying about ARC vs. Audyssey and other RC techniques?


Ken


----------



## malcolmp6

For the past few days I have been encountering a bug with the D2v that happens when switching sources with different resolutions.

I have an Oppo bluray player and a popcorn hour NMT. With the oppo set to source direct and the popcorn set to 1080i/60 I loose video or audio when I switch sources. If both are set to 1080p/24 the switching is fine with the NMT but with the Oppo the video is lost at times.


I have had the same setup with a Denon 3808ci and there were never any issues with switching. My display is a 46" Sony XBR4 and my HDMI cables are from BlueJeans Cat2 certified.


Another issue is when the popcorn hour is playing FLAC music files the D2v shows 7.1 PCM and is not able to apply any surround processing to the incoming audio.


I will wait and see if anyone else is having similar issues before contacting Anthem support.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malcolmp6* /forum/post/16852665
> 
> 
> For the past few days I have been encountering a bug with the D2v that happens when switching sources with different resolutions.
> 
> I have an Oppo bluray player and a popcorn hour NMT. With the oppo set to source direct and the popcorn set to 1080i/60 I loose video or audio when I switch sources. If both are set to 1080p/24 the switching is fine with the NMT but with the Oppo the video is lost at times.
> 
> 
> I have had the same setup with a Denon 3808ci and there were never any issues with switching. My display is a 46" Sony XBR4 and my HDMI cables are from BlueJeans Cat2 certified.
> 
> 
> Another issue is when the popcorn hour is playing FLAC music files the D2v shows 7.1 PCM and is not able to apply any surround processing to the incoming audio.
> 
> 
> I will wait and see if anyone else is having similar issues before contacting Anthem support.



I have a D2v and PCH-A110 also. I use a Tivo S3, PS3, XB360, and HTPC as well. All HDMI.


I have no issues switching between sources.


My Tivo does everything native, so 480i/720p/1080i

My PCH is set to 1080p/60 for SD and 1080i material, and 1080p/24 for and 24p source material (that's the frame lock setting).


My PS3 and XB360 are set to 1080p.


My HTPC is set to 1080i and 1080p, depending on what I'm doing.


No issues with sound or picture loss at all.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malcolmp6* /forum/post/16852665
> 
> 
> For the past few days I have been encountering a bug with the D2v that happens when switching sources with different resolutions.
> 
> I have an Oppo bluray player and a popcorn hour NMT. With the oppo set to source direct and the popcorn set to 1080i/60 I loose video or audio when I switch sources. If both are set to 1080p/24 the switching is fine with the NMT but with the Oppo the video is lost at times.
> 
> 
> I have had the same setup with a Denon 3808ci and there were never any issues with switching. My display is a 46" Sony XBR4 and my HDMI cables are from BlueJeans Cat2 certified.
> 
> 
> Another issue is when the popcorn hour is playing FLAC music files the D2v shows 7.1 PCM and is not able to apply any surround processing to the incoming audio.
> 
> 
> I will wait and see if anyone else is having similar issues before contacting Anthem support.



Your issue with 7.1 input is entirely a problem with the source device. The D2v simply reports what it can accept. It is up to the source device to decide whether to send stereo content as 2 channels or to embed it in 7.1 channels (with only 2 channels active). Some sources have settings to control this. I don't know whether that's the case with yours. The PS3 has a similar problem.


The loss of signal is definitely a bug, but it is not really obvious where the bug resides. For example, I don't know if your Denon is an HDMI v1.3 device that supports 36 bit Deep Color connections. Nor whether your HDMI cables are built for that.


First, if you have not already installed the "public beta" software in your Oppo you should do so. See Oppo's support page for the player.


If your HDMI cables are not sold as HDMI v1.3 for "high speed", or "1080p", or "category 2", consider replacing them.


If you have done that, and are still having problems, you should get in touch with Anthem. They may ask you to try the "test" V2.07c firmware.


ETA: OK, I see your cables should not be part of the problem.

--Bob


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malcolmp6* /forum/post/16852665
> 
> 
> For the past few days I have been encountering a bug with the D2v that happens when switching sources with different resolutions.
> 
> I have an Oppo bluray player and a popcorn hour NMT. With the oppo set to source direct and the popcorn set to 1080i/60 I loose video or audio when I switch sources. If both are set to 1080p/24 the switching is fine with the NMT but with the Oppo the video is lost at times.
> 
> 
> I have had the same setup with a Denon 3808ci and there were never any issues with switching. My display is a 46" Sony XBR4 and my HDMI cables are from BlueJeans Cat2 certified.
> 
> 
> Another issue is when the popcorn hour is playing FLAC music files the D2v shows 7.1 PCM and is not able to apply any surround processing to the incoming audio.
> 
> 
> I will wait and see if anyone else is having similar issues before contacting Anthem support.



I have had that issue also. I'm trying to figure out the exact sequence of events that triggers it.


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15747110
> 
> 
> The problem only exists if you attempt to convert 480i/60 or 1080i/60 content to 1080p/24 output.
> 
> 
> If you already have 1080p/24 content, as from a Blu-Ray movie, you can get perfect 1080p/24 output now either by selecting a Video Output configuration you have defined to use 1080p/24 *or by using the Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock feature combined with a 1080p/60 Video Output configuration.*
> 
> --Bob



Has anybody been successful in using the second method to automatically have the D2v output 1080p/24 from a 1080p/24 source?


I've tried this with my Oppo BDP-83 and it doesn't seem to work. I have the 83 set to output 1080p/24 from BD 1080p/24 sources and 1080p/60 for everything else. But my D2v converts the 1080p/24 to 1080p/60 regardless. The only way I've been able to get it to output 1080p/24 is setup second video output configuration that specifies 1080p/24.


I noticed when I check the Video Source info window when using the 1080p/60 output configuration with a 1080p/24 and Frame Lock set to "Auto" it says Frame Lock is "Inactive". When I check the info window when using the 1080p/24 output configuration and a 1080p/24 source Frame Lock is "Active".


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16853807
> 
> 
> Has anybody been successful in using the second method to automatically have the D2v output 1080p/24 from a 1080p/24 source?
> 
> 
> I've tried this with my Oppo BDP-83 and it doesn't seem to work. I have the 83 set to output 1080p/24 from BD 1080p/24 sources and 1080p/60 for everything else. But my D2v converts the 1080p/24 to 1080p/60 regardless. The only way I've been able to get it to output 1080p/24 is setup second video output configuration that specifies 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> I noticed when I check the Video Source info window when using the 1080p/60 output configuration with a 1080p/24 and Frame Lock set to "Auto" it says Frame Lock is "Inactive". When I check the info window when using the 1080p/24 output configuration and a 1080p/24 source Frame Lock is "Active".



Did you confirm that the D2v sees the *input* as 24p?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16853807
> 
> 
> Has anybody been successful in using the second method to automatically have the D2v output 1080p/24 from a 1080p/24 source?
> 
> 
> I've tried this with my Oppo BDP-83 and it doesn't seem to work. I have the 83 set to output 1080p/24 from BD 1080p/24 sources and 1080p/60 for everything else. But my D2v converts the 1080p/24 to 1080p/60 regardless. The only way I've been able to get it to output 1080p/24 is setup second video output configuration that specifies 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> I noticed when I check the Video Source info window when using the 1080p/60 output configuration with a 1080p/24 and Frame Lock set to "Auto" it says Frame Lock is "Inactive". When I check the info window when using the 1080p/24 output configuration and a 1080p/24 source Frame Lock is "Active".



Which firmware version are you using? The Frame Lock feature was disabled for a few versions while they were working on the "reverse telecine" stuff". It should be working again in V2.07, however I've not actually tried it myself.


ETA: I believe the way they may have it set up now is that you specify 1080p/24 as the default output in Setup > Video Output and turn on Frame Lock in Video Source Adjust > Output. Then it switches *FROM* /24 *TO* /60 if the input is /60. If you feed it an interlaced source (e.g., 480i/60 or 1080i/60) it attempts to determine if it is "film-based", uses the new "reverse telecine" to extract the original /24 content from that, and leaves the video output at /24 for that.


The "reverse telecine" processing is still a work in process -- you'll note that it is not mentioned in the release notes. It will only work well with clean content -- without significant glitches in the telecine cadence. Frame Lock will also result in a somewhat longer handshake, so it is good to have a separate /60 video output setup you can select for times when you don't need Frame Lock.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16855131
> 
> 
> The "reverse telecine" processing is still a work in process -- you'll note that it is not mentioned in the release notes. It will only work well with clean content -- without significant glitches in the telecine cadence. Frame Lock will also result in a somewhat longer handshake, so it is good to have a separate /60 video output setup you can select for times when you don't need Frame Lock.
> 
> --Bob



I'm super sensitive to the minor judder often introduced when playing 24p source material at 30i/60p.


However since I've been using the D2v, I don't notice any judder at all. Even on some of my test clips where it's more obvious to me, it looks silky smooth.


Is there a reason to do 24p out of the D2v? I'm all for native *in* to the D2v, but the VP in the D2v is pretty amazing.


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16855408
> 
> 
> Did you confirm that the D2v sees the *input* as 24p?
> 
> 
> Is there a reason to do 24p out of the D2v?



Yes, the D2v sees 23.97 when the Oppo is set to output it.


That is my question too. Would I just be better off setting the output to 1080p/60 on the D2v and call it a day. It would be a lot simpler and I'm not sure I can see any difference between the 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 on my 52" display.


Bob. I'm using 2.07 firmware that came loaded on my D2v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16856871
> 
> 
> Yes, the D2v sees 23.97 when the Oppo is set to output it.
> 
> 
> That is my question too. Would I just be better off setting the output to 1080p/60 on the D2v and call it a day. It would be a lot simpler and I'm not sure I can see any difference between the 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 on my 52" display.
> 
> 
> Bob. I'm using 2.07 firmware that came loaded on my D2v.



Watch any film-based blu-Ray movie. Go to the closing credits vertical scroll. Send 1080p/24 from the player to the D2v. Switch the D2v between 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 output to your display (using 2 Video Output configurations and the "shortcut" on the remote. Leave Frame Lock off.


If your display accepts the /24 input and displays it at a multiple of 24 frames per second then the credit scroll should appear very smooth. If it appears to grind upward in tiny steps -- just like with /60 output -- then your display isn't doing the right thing with /24 input. Either change some setting in your display or stick with /60 output from the Anthem and keep life simple because your display isn't using /24 properly.


In either case, set your blu-Ray player to send 1080p/24 to the Anthem (for film-based movies). There should be a setting in your player that does that automatically -- switching to either 1080i/60 or 1080p/60 for other blu-Ray stuff like live concert discs.


If you DO see the smoother motion in the credits roll using /24 to your display, then THAT'S the time to see if Frame Lock can help do the Anthem output switching automatically for you, as you have just proven that your display is actually capable of "judder free" viewing.


Note that folks in PAL countries don't have to futz with this stuff. /25 movies and /50 TV will never have cadence judder.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2v / AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.07e Now Up on Password Protected Download Page!


************************** WARNING! ************************


READ THE RELEASE NOTES BELOW.


DO *NOT* INSTALL THIS "TEST" FIRMWARE UNLESS YOU ARE CONFIDENT IN THE COMPUTER AND SERIAL CONNECTION YOU USE FOR INSTALLS, AS AN INSTALL FAILURE MAY LEAVE THE UNIT IN A STATE WHERE THERE IS NO RECOURSE BUT TO SEND IT BACK TO THE FACTORY FOR SPECIAL REPROGRAMMING OF THE VIDEO BOARD.


************************** WARNING! *************************


D2v and AVM 50v "test" firmware V2.07e has just appeared on the password protected download page. It looks like this is an attempt to tackle the issues we've already been discussing here with "test" V2.07c.


However, this "test" firmware still comes with the warning that a failed install, particularly during the programming of the video board, may not be recoverable by the user. Apparently they are doing some reprogramming of the video board at a low level -- possibly the firmware that supports doing installs themselves. The upshot is that if your unit ends up in this state, there may be no recourse but to send the unit back to Anthem for special reprogramming.


We can only hope that Anthem is working on removing this risk before this software becomes "official" -- perhaps via a new utility program (like Flash Eraser) that will reset the video board if you are unlucky enough to get it into this state.


But for now, don't install this particular "test" firmware unless you are confident in your install computer and serial connection, and are willing to live with the consequences if the install does fail.


Here are the change notes since V2.06. Note that V2.07 remains the current, "official" version. The WARNING above does not apply to installs of "official" V2.07 (available on Anthem's public download pages):



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> WARNING: Do not attempt to load beta software unless the computer and connection is known to successfully update an AVM 50v or D2v. A programming failure may result in the necessity for factory reprogramming.
> 
> 
> v2.07e beta:
> 
> 
> More changes to address video switching, audio dropouts, and audio glitches.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. More changes to video code base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Video processor code base updates.
> 
> 
> 2. Audio DSP code base update.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for Sony as second monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for popping that began in v2.06 with Toshiba XA2 as source.
> 
> 
> 2. New VXP video processor code.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for a DSP problem that affected the AVM 50v with 44.1 kHz input.



-----------------------------------------------


There's been no change yet today in the "test" firmware for folks with the original D2 and AVM 50 hardware. The "test" version on the password protected download page remains V1.47c. No warning has been added about this firmware only being applicable to units with the newer power supply or anything else. I've got an email in to Nick at Anthem trying to get some clarification on that.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/16852425
> 
> 
> Hey Thanks Bob!
> 
> 
> I was able to use the input display to verify my BD55 is converting MA and TrueHD to 96KHz PCM when properly configured. Otherwise they were converted to 640kbps DD or 1536kbps DTS. But I guess only the D2v will actually accept and process the advanced bitstreams?
> 
> 
> I'll definitely try out the ARC. I was talking to the head engineer a few years back about it at CEDIA. He seemed pretty pumped then. I'll definitely try it out for $400. (although I imagine it's bundled with the upgrade to D2v so I'll have to decide...)
> 
> 
> What are reviewers/users saying about ARC vs. Audyssey and other RC techniques?
> 
> 
> Ken



Ken,

First of all, ARC is amazing, and improves with each new firmware upgrade. It's the best $400 I have ever spent on my HT.

Secondly, how are you configured to get 96khz with MA and TrueHD? I owned the bd55 and now use the Oppo 83 and only get 48khz into the D2.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16857460
> 
> 
> Ken,
> 
> First of all, ARC is amazing, and improves with each new firmware upgrade. It's the best $400 I have ever spent on my HT.
> 
> Secondly, how are you configured to get 96khz with MA and TrueHD? I owned the bd55 and now use the Oppo 83 and only get 48khz into the D2.
> 
> Tom



With the Oppo you will get whatever was used for the LPCM when the studio fed that into the TrueHD or DTS-HD MA encoder to create the track for the disc. For most feature films that will be 48KHz. However, there are some music discs out there with 96KHz and even 192KHz.


I.e., the Oppo doesn't try to "upsample" the audio.


I don't know about the BD55. However, it is almost always better to send across the sample rate that's inherent in the content on the disc rather than letting the player futz with it.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob,

I have Panasonic BD55 BD player and have it set up for 1080p and the 24 to off with BD material. I have the d2v set to 1080p/24 and the frame lock is on. The picture seems fine for a few minutes then starts moving like a robot. I have to switch the source back and fort to get the picture correct again. Is there something I do wrong or there is an issue with the d2v?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16857620
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> I have Panasonic BD55 BD player and have it set up for 1080p and the 24 to off with BD material. I have the d2v set to 1080p/24 and the frame lock is on. The picture seems fine for a few minutes then starts moving like a robot. I have to switch the source back and fort to get the picture correct again. Is there something I do wrong or there is an issue with the d2v?



Don't turn off the /24 output from the BD55. Send 1080p/24 to the D2v.


By turning off the /24 output from the BD55 you have told it to take the 1080p/24 video (coming off the disc) and raise that to 1080p/60 via the "telecine" process. The Anthem is then trying to recover the original /24 video stream by discarding the repeated frames so that it can do the /24 output you asked it to do. Apparently some combo of edits in the film, and the way the BD55 is working is confusing the Anthem.


But if you let the BD55 output the original 1080p/24 (just as it comes off the disc) to the Anthem, you won't have these problems.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16857839
> 
> 
> Don't turn off the /24 output from the BD55. Send 1080p/24 to the D2v.
> 
> 
> By turning off the /24 output from the BD55 you have told it to take the 1080p/24 video (coming off the disc) and raise that to 1080p/60 via the "telecine" process. The Anthem is then trying to recover the original /24 video stream by discarding the repeated frames so that it can do the /24 output you asked it to do. Apparently some combo of edits in the film, and the way the BD55 is working is confusing the Anthem.
> 
> 
> But if you let the BD55 output the original 1080p/24 (just as it comes off the disc) to the Anthem, you won't have these problems.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. But if I leave the 1080p/24 comming from the player then what does the d2v do? The d2v will just send the signal unproccessed to the tv because the signal is already 1080p/24. Isn't that right?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16857475
> 
> 
> With the Oppo you will get whatever was used for the LPCM when the studio fed that into the TrueHD or DTS-HD MA encoder to create the track for the disc. For most feature films that will be 48KHz. However, there are some music discs out there with 96KHz and even 192KHz.
> 
> 
> I.e., the Oppo doesn't try to "upsample" the audio.
> 
> 
> I don't know about the BD55. However, it is almost always better to send across the sample rate that's inherent in the content on the disc rather than letting the player futz with it.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Thanks. I thought I might have been might have been missing something.

Just out of curiosity, what discs (other than dvd-a) are recorded in 96KHz?

And what discs are recorded in 192KHz? I'd like to see what the D2 will accept. I have always thought the highest it could accept is 96KHz, but I'd like to see if can accept 192KHz. Unless someone else has tried already and knows.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16858140
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks. I thought I might have been might have been missing something.
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what discs (other than dvd-a) are recorded in 96KHz?
> 
> And what discs are recorded in 192KHz? I'd like to see what the D2 will accept. I have always thought the highest it could accept is 96KHz, but I'd like to see if can accept 192KHz. Unless someone else has tried already and knows.
> 
> Tom



The D2 is limited to 96 KHz input (max 5.1 channels). The D2v will take up to 192KHz input (max 7.1 channels).


Check out the audio only Blu-Ray discs from Acoustic Reality (e.g. Vivaldi The Four Seasons) and from 2L (e.g. Divertimenti), both available from Amazon.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16857951
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. But if I leave the 1080p/24 comming from the player then what does the d2v do? The d2v will just send the signal unproccessed to the tv because the signal is already 1080p/24. Isn't that right?



You say this as if this is a bad thing.










The Anthem doesn't have to scale or do frame rate conversion, but it still does whatever other video processing you have told it to do in the Video Source Adjust menu.

--Bob


----------



## KenLand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16857460
> 
> 
> Ken,
> 
> First of all, ARC is amazing, and improves with each new firmware upgrade. It's the best $400 I have ever spent on my HT.
> 
> Secondly, how are you configured to get 96khz with MA and TrueHD? I owned the bd55 and now use the Oppo 83 and only get 48khz into the D2.
> 
> Tom



Depends on the source. Some is 48 some is 96.

I was just using the samples on the Spears&Munsil disc.


Thanks for feedback on ARC. Since I haven't bought the kit yet, I *could* look at it as a $400 discount on the D2v.










Ken


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16858222
> 
> 
> You say this as if this is a bad thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Anthem doesn't have to scale or do frame rate conversion, but it still does whatever other video processing you have told it to do in the Video Source Adjust menu.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. No it is not a bad thing but I wanted to do the 24 conversion by d2v. I will make the adjustments as you suggested.

Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16858528
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. No it is not a bad thing but I wanted to do the 24 conversion by d2v. I will make the adjustments as you suggested.
> 
> Thanks again.



I think what you may be missing is that for film-based Blu-Ray movies, the content on disc is ALREADY 1080p/24. So there's no conversion needed.


You only need conversion when film-based content has been previously raised to video frame rates via the telecine process. This will be the case for SD movies on SD-DVD disc (which are on disc as 480i/60), and for SD movies on SDTV (480i/60) and HD movies on HDTV (1080i/60). Note that to get the benefits of conversion in the D2v you must send this stuff to the D2v at 480i and 1080i respectively, otherwise whatever is doing the scaling ahead of the D2v will have already screwed things up.


[ETA: Note in particular that some HDTV movies are really just SD-DVD transfers that have been upscaled for broadcast. Which means attempting reverse telecine on them probably won't work well.]


But again, for film-based movies on Blu-Ray, if the player is set to output 1080p/24 then the player isn't doing anything. That's what's already coming off the disc.

--Bob


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16856995
> 
> 
> Watch any film-based blu-Ray movie. Go to the closing credits vertical scroll. ..................
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the very detailed explanation Bob. It will make it much easier for me to run through tonight and should eliminate the guess work (which I hate).


CF


----------



## Bob Pariseau

"Test" firmware V2.07e installed without problems on my D2v.


The video portion of the handshake appears robust. I haven't spotted any problems.


The audio still has problems starting up a new audio stream. Occasionally, you will get a brief "BRAAAP!" noise as a new audio format starts up.


A new problem with V2.07e is that the audio is incorrectly muted when you power up the D2v. This may be limited to Optical Digital audio input. If it happens you can cure it by switching to a different input and back.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16858190
> 
> 
> The D2 is limited to 96 KHz input (max 5.1 channels). The D2v will take up to 192KHz input (max 7.1 channels).
> 
> 
> Check out the audio only Blu-Ray discs from Acoustic Reality (e.g. Vivaldi The Four Seasons) and from 2L (e.g. Divertimenti), both available from Amazon.
> 
> --Bob



O.K. So what would happen if I play a 192KHz BR-audio disc thru my D2?

Would it down-sample to 96KHz or would it play the lossy 'core' audio?

Are you trying to get me to upgrade to the D2v?










I will be honest. If Anthem were to offer me the same deal I got when I went from my AVM30 to the D2 I would give it much more serious consideration. I paid the difference from the list price of the AVM30 and the D2 (plus the xx% discount from the dealer). It doesn't seem that Anthem wants to offer that same kind of deal to those who want to upgrade from the D2 to D2v, if my math is correct.


That having been said, if the only thing I'm missing is 192KHz in, then I'll suffer thru with my D2.









But I am interested in what audio improvements you think the the D2v offers, other than 192KHz in, which is, for now at least, a very minor consideration.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16859047
> 
> 
> O.K. So what would happen if I play a 192KHz BR-audio disc thru my D2?
> 
> Would it down-sample to 96KHz or would it play the lossy 'core' audio?
> 
> Are you trying to get me to upgrade to the D2v?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be honest. If Anthem were to offer me the same deal I got when I went from my AVM30 to the D2 I would give it much more serious consideration. I paid the difference from the list price of the AVM30 and the D2 (plus the xx% discount from the dealer). It doesn't seem that Anthem wants to offer that same kind of deal to those who want to upgrade from the D2 to D2v, if my math is correct.
> 
> 
> That having been said, if the only thing I'm missing is 192KHz in, then I'll suffer thru with my D2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I am interested in what audio improvements you think the the D2v offers, other than 192KHz in, which is, for now at least, a very minor consideration.
> 
> Tom



The source will discover during the handshake that the D2 is limited to 96KHz. Usually the source will generate 96KHz output from the 192KHz content. For things like TrueHD and DTS-HD this is straightforward. They are designed to make it easy for the decoder to produce less than the full sampling rate.


But if for some silly reason the source can't do that, then yes, you will get the lossy "compatibility" track instead.


7.1 channel HDMI input is the other big one right now. Dolby Volume, when it ships, will also be a difference. For folks who like playing with HDMI Bitstream, the option to do the decoding in the D2v itself is also a difference.


That said, I was surprised to discover that my D2v sounded noticeably better than my D2 even on "normal" 5.1 tracks. I don't have a good explanation for that. I can only assume they made some improvements they aren't talking about.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I got some more details from Nick on the hardware dependency for the "test" V1.47c firmware (D2 and AVM 50). As we surmised, the firmware is dependent on some rolling hardware changes they made in manufacturing way back when. Normally, firmware releases discover just what hardware is actually in the unit and adjust accordingly. The whole idea is that these hardware changes are not feature changes, but simply stuff done in the course of manufacturing a product over time as part availability changes. The end user is not SUPPOSED to be able to find any difference. The firmware is supposed to conceal all that.


Well V1.47c doesn't work with older versions of the hardware. As it turns out, there are two things an owner can see through the vents that will guarantee you have hardware which is new enough. If your video board (the large, upper board just underneath the vents at the top of the chassis) is colored red, or if your power supply doesn't have the big toroidal transformer of the original power supply, then you are good to go. (I.e., it's not actually the power supply, it's that IF you happen to HAVE that newer power supply, then you must ALSO have the other newer hardware V1.47c requires.)


But if you have the original power supply, and if you have either a green or gray video board, you MAY ALSO be good to go. It's just that there's no easy way for an owner to tell. So to be safe, don't install V1.47c in your D2 or AVM 50 unless you can see you have either a red video board or the power supply without the toroidal transformer (or both).


Presumably, by the time this firmware becomes "official" additional work will have been done on it so that owners don't have to worry about any of this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well I can't really recommend the "test" V2.07e firmware. Although video seems more reliable than with V2.07c, audio has gone the other way. The "BRAAAAP!" noises still occur when a new audio format starts, but now it seems to be far too easy to end up with no audio at all -- requiring a cycling of inputs to get audio back.


Loss of audio seems to be common for the source selected at power up. Loss of audio is also easy to produce when playing a CD on the PS3 using HDMI LPCM 176.4KHz output.


But I should add that once you get the audio going, the resulting audio and video are very good indeed.


All the details have been passed on to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16859666
> 
> 
> I got some more details from Nick on the hardware dependency for the "test" V1.47c firmware (D2 and AVM 50). As we surmised, the firmware is dependent on some rolling hardware changes they made in manufacturing way back when. Normally, firmware releases discover just what hardware is actually in the unit and adjust accordingly. The whole idea is that these hardware changes are not feature changes, but simply stuff done in the course of manufacturing a product over time as part availability changes. The end user is not SUPPOSED to be able to find any difference. The firmware is supposed to conceal all that.
> 
> 
> Well V1.47c doesn't work with older versions of the hardware. As it turns out, there are two things an owner can see through the vents that will guarantee you have hardware which is new enough. If your video board (the large, upper board just underneath the vents at the top of the chassis) is colored red, or if your power supply doesn't have the big toroidal transformer of the original power supply, then you are good to go. (I.e., it's not actually the power supply, it's that IF you happen to HAVE that newer power supply, then you must ALSO have the other newer hardware V1.47c requires.)
> 
> 
> But if you have the original power supply, and if you have either a green or gray video board, you MAY ALSO be good to go. It's just that there's no easy way for an owner to tell. So to be safe, don't install V1.47c in your D2 or AVM 50 unless you can see you have either a red video board or the power supply without the toroidal transformer (or both).
> 
> 
> Presumably, by the time this firmware becomes "official" additional work will have been done on it so that owners don't have to worry about any of this.
> 
> --Bob



The big toroidal transformer is it round, grey and in the right front corner ?


What does the newer power supply look like ?


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Just got my Oppo BD-83 this morning and set it up with my D2v and all went smoothly as did the beta firmware update by USB. Have a couple of questions.


1. should I use Video Direct for Blu-ray?

2. should SD movies be set to 480i out?

3. how do you set output from the Oppo separately for BD and SD?

4. should I ignore the setting for speakers in the Oppo setup menu, ie. leave them at default?


I have set sound to bitstream and it sounds a little more detailed than PCM from my PS3.

thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16862039
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Just got my Oppo BD-83 this morning and set it up with my D2v and all went smoothly as did the beta firmware update by USB. Have a couple of questions.
> 
> 
> 1. should I use Video Direct for Blu-ray?
> 
> 2. should SD movies be set to 480i out?
> 
> 3. how do you set output from the Oppo separately for BD and SD?
> 
> 4. shold I ignore the setting for speakers in the Oppo setup menu, ie leave them at default?
> 
> 
> I have set sound to bitstream and it sounds a little more detailed than PCM from my PS3.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



You can use either Source Direct or explicit 1080p. The Oppo's video processing is good enough that I'm perfectly comfortable using explicit 1080p for both Blu-Ray and SD-DVD. Explicit 1080p means you also have access to some of the convenience features in the Oppo's video processor such as the zoom modes.


For the firmware you are using, my settings for use with the D2v were:


Explicit 1080p, "Multi-system", "16:9 Wide/Auto", HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4, 36-bit video, 1080p/24 Auto, DVD-24 OFF. All Picture controls at 0 (factory default).


Secondary Audio OFF, Dynamic Range Compression OFF, SACD PCM.


You can use either HDMI LPCM or HDMI Bitstream interchangeably. In testing I switch between them frequently and basically there is no difference. There are two exceptions: For CDs, use HDMI LPCM because the D2v does not decode the special data found in HDCD bitstreams (and the Oppo does). For SD-DVD use HDMI Bitstream and you don't have to think about whether the disk your are playing is in DTS-ES format (the Oppo doesn't decode the matrixed rear channel in DTS-ES format SD-DVD tracks, but the D2v does.


There are a few bugs in this setup that only affect HDMI LPCM and a few bugs that only affect HDMI Bitstream, but I can't go into details and for the most part you are unlikely to run into them. Just remember that if something unusual seems to be happening you can switch between LPCM and Bitstream on the fly to see if that's a workaround.


The speaker settings in the Oppo are ignored if you are using HDMI for audio.

--Bob


----------



## Haroon Malik

This is perhaps one of the first and definitely the most detailed review of the *D2v* and *P5* to date with a host of screenshots.









http://translate.google.com/translat...istory_state0= 


The translation is not so bad. One can understand what is being said clearly. Enjoy the read. I don't know if it was posted here before.


----------



## jayray

Bob,

As always, thanks for your help.


John


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Haroon Malik* /forum/post/16862224
> 
> 
> This is perhaps one of the first and definitely the most detailed review of the *D2v* and *P5* to date with a host of screenshots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://translate.google.com/translat...istory_state0=
> 
> 
> The translation is not so bad. One can understand what is being said clearly. Enjoy the read. I don't know if it was posted here before.



Sort of like reading one of those japanese/english manuals...


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

Thanks, Bob!


----------



## thestewman

The big toroidal transformer in the older D2, is it round, grey and in the right front corner ?


What does the newer power supply look like ?


Thanks


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/16864408
> 
> 
> The big toroidal transformer in the older D2, is it round, grey and in the right front corner ?
> 
> 
> What does the newer power supply look like ?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I know it is in my AVM-50....Not sure about the D-2 though.


----------



## Milt99

Why would the main power supply make any difference whatsoever for firmware?

Unless the firmware regulates the voltage, etc. for the entire unit and the chip that controls the power supply was changed out as well and the code that communicated with the old chip was left out of the new firmware.


If that is true, it seems the unit wouldn't operate at all or would be very squirrelly.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16859047
> 
> 
> O.K. So what would happen if I play a 192KHz BR-audio disc thru my D2?
> 
> Would it down-sample to 96KHz or would it play the lossy 'core' audio?
> 
> Are you trying to get me to upgrade to the D2v?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be honest. If Anthem were to offer me the same deal I got when I went from my AVM30 to the D2 I would give it much more serious consideration. I paid the difference from the list price of the AVM30 and the D2 (plus the xx% discount from the dealer). It doesn't seem that Anthem wants to offer that same kind of deal to those who want to upgrade from the D2 to D2v, if my math is correct.
> 
> 
> That having been said, if the only thing I'm missing is 192KHz in, then I'll suffer thru with my D2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I am interested in what audio improvements you think the the D2v offers, other than 192KHz in, which is, for now at least, a very minor consideration.
> 
> Tom



Wait, I thought the D2 took _all digital input_ and upsampled it to 24/192?

Why are we talking about a 24/96 limitation now?


If we're talking about 24/96, MLP\\TrueHD is "limited" to 24/96 for 5.1 and 24/192 for 2 channel.

I don't see this as limitation of the D2 vs D2v but of the codec itself.

2-channel 24/192 is not common in source material AFAIK and 24/96 is not common in 5.1 DVD-A either or Blu-Ray.


Color me confused


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/16865597
> 
> 
> Why would the main power supply make any difference whatsoever for firmware?
> 
> Unless the firmware regulates the voltage, etc. for the entire unit and the chip that controls the power supply was changed out as well and the code that communicated with the old chip was left out of the new firmware.
> 
> 
> If that is true, it seems the unit wouldn't operate at all or would be very squirrelly.



It doesn't. The power supply is an easy indicator of what video board is inside, as they switched both at the same time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/16865626
> 
> 
> Wait, I thought the D2 took _all digital input_ and upsampled it to 24/192?
> 
> Why are we talking about a 24/96 limitation now?
> 
> 
> If we're talking about 24/96, MLP\\TrueHD is "limited" to 24/96 for 5.1 and 24/192 for 2 channel.
> 
> I don't see this as limitation of the D2 vs D2v but of the codec itself.
> 
> 2-channel 24/192 is not common in source material AFAIK and 24/96 is not common in 5.1 DVD-A either or Blu-Ray.
> 
> 
> Color me confused



The *INPUT* to the D2 is limited to 96KHz.


The input is upsampled to 192KHz prior to audio processing.


The D2v supports 192 KHz input. It also supports 7.1 input vs. 5.1 input for the D2. Both are capable of 7.1 speaker output.

--Bob


----------



## ragdog

Ok I had a huge problem setting up the new D2V. First of all we could not get HDMI sound to work, the input devices were set up correctly and finally we just turned on and off the D2 and we finally got sound. At times when say switching from a Blu Ray Player to a DSS box I find that nothing happens and we have to either reboot the DSS or the Anthem or Both, any suggestions you experts.


Thanks for all.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ragdog* /forum/post/16866508
> 
> 
> Ok I had a huge problem setting up the new D2V. First of all we could not get HDMI sound to work, the input devices were set up correctly and finally we just turned on and off the D2 and we finally got sound. At times when say switching from a Blu Ray Player to a DSS box I find that nothing happens and we have to either reboot the DSS or the Anthem or Both, any suggestions you experts.
> 
> 
> Thanks for all.



This is not all that uncommon with the D2v. I often have to turn on and off the D2v when switching sources, especially to the PS3. I also have to switch the D2v off/on at times when starting a video game on the PS3 as I get garbled sound.


The D2v could use a command that forces a new handshake between the source being used. I know it can be done by switching sources or turning the unit off/on. I have tried switching sources and at times it does nto work and I have to turn theunit off/on.


----------



## spiderv6

It is totally *UN*common for me......I can honestly say I have had this issue maybe twice in the past 3 or 4 months that I have been using my D2V.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16868395
> 
> 
> It is totally *UN*common for me......I can honestly say I have had this issue maybe twice in the past 3 or 4 months that I have been using my D2V.



Same here -- with the exception of the "test" V2.07c firmware that had some handshaking problems that now appear to be fixed in "test" V2.07e firmware.


I use Component video and Optical audio from my Comcast HD/DVR, but that's not due to handshaking problems.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16868395
> 
> 
> It is totally *UN*common for me......I can honestly say I have had this issue maybe twice in the past 3 or 4 months that I have been using my D2V.



I agree, once I got all my HDMI cables updated to *High Speed HDMI 1.3a Category 2* andseated properly, I have not had any of these problems. Maybe just like spiderv6, once or twice in the last few months...


----------



## malcolmp6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16868719
> 
> 
> I agree, once I got all my HDMI cables updated to *High Speed HDMI 1.3a Category 2* andseated properly, I have not had any of these problems. Maybe just like spiderv6, once or twice in the last few months...



I have had problems with my Oppo 83 and popcorn hour NMT. I ordered a new set of HDMI cables from bluejeanscables and will post back on what i find. The problems i have encountered are limited to when I switch sources or play a new source. Again these problems are not consistent so it is hard to figure out what is the cause.


----------



## Warpdrv

Thats exactly what I was experiencing, I'm not sure why the alignment on the Anthems HDMI sockets are so touchy(make sure there is no torsion in any direction other then straight in and have no pulling in one direction or another), but the other problem for me was directly related to the cable I had going out from the D2v to the display, I thought it was a good cable, but I guess it would be it did not have enough bandwidth to carry full 1080p which resulted in issues for me.


Mono price sells the HDMI socket savers which have been very helpful for people to relieve the strain on the sockets.


DO NOT buy from anywhere else, as others have had problems with different manufacturers, Monoprice ones are known to be good from other D2, D2v, AVM50 & AVM50v members trial and error history.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/16869660
> 
> 
> Thats exactly what I was experiencing, I'm not sure why the alignment on the Anthems HDMI sockets are so touchy(make sure there is no torsion in any direction other then straight in and have no pulling in one direction or another), but the other problem for me was directly related to the cable I had going out from the D2v to the display, I thought it was a good cable, but I guess it would be it did not have enough bandwidth to carry full 1080p which resulted in issues for me.
> 
> 
> Mono price sells the HDMI socket savers which have been very helpful for people to relieve the strain on the sockets.
> 
> 
> DO NOT buy from anywhere else, as others have had problems with different manufacturers, Monoprice ones are known to be good from other D2, D2v, AVM50 & AVM50v members trial and error history.



I have monoprice and still have occasional problems. Not with my PVR. It is normally with my PS3 and occasionally with the Oppo83. I just put up with it and all that use the system know that all they have to do is force a new handshake and all will be well.


If the cable is not inserted correctly a new handshake should not correct the problem as the cable has not been moved.........


Even with these occasional glitches I still think the Dv2 is the best pre/pro at its price point in the market today.


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16870762
> 
> 
> If the cable is not inserted correctly a new handshake should not correct the problem as the cable has not been moved.........



Actually that's not true. The handshake is unforgiving. If the signal is marginal it may just give up after a couple retries. But a marginal signal might be good enough to let it work most of the time. There are high and low bandwidth parts of the signal with the low bandwidth stuff driving the handshake. Cables, plugs and sockets degrade the high and low bandwidth stuff differently -- sometimes the low bandwidth stuff gets degraded more.


So it really is worthwhile checking whether your plugs are all properly inserted in the sockets, with no cable weight stress (or whatever) tugging them in any direction.


This stuff really is a pain in the neck to sort out.


Try temporarily setting up input and output to use no higher than 1080i. If that works without problems then it suggests a cable problem. If 1080i also has problems, try temporarily using 480p (not 480i) input and output (the simplest HDMI connection). Again, if THAT works without problems then it suggests a cabling problem.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

Agreed Bob, I don't use the port savers, but after aligning all my cables with precision, I have an extremely rare issue with those types of problems....


----------



## Charlie_Phogg

I'm having an issue with the setup menu of my D2v. When I enter the setup menu instead of coming up with the std blue background and white text it comes up totally garbled, "dancing" around on the screen and basically unreadable. The menu functions still work as I can read the display on the unit and make changes using it as guide to what I am doing but using the output to the display isn't possible because it is unreadable.


This has happened to me several times over the last few days. It always seems to clear up after I let it sit for a while. Then, the menu usually starts up OK but after I play around a bit and make some adjustments things go south. Tonight, I was in the Level Output section and made a couple of adjustments. When I went to exit that menu the screen when black for a few seconds and when it came back on the menu was unreadable.


This doesn't seem to effect the output of my other sources or video menu, just the setup menu. I'm outputting over HDMI to my display and using 1080p/60 but I managed to get in and change a video configuration to 768p/60 then auto to see if that might make a difference but it didn't help.


Any ideas. This is very frustrating.


I'm attaching a photo to illustrate this issue.


CF


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16872434
> 
> 
> I'm having an issue with the setup menu of my D2v. When I enter the setup menu instead of coming up with the std blue background and white text it comes up totally garbled, "dancing" around on the screen and basically unreadable. The menu functions still work as I can read the display on the unit and make changes using it as guide to what I am doing but using the output to the display isn't possible because it is unreadable.
> 
> 
> This has happened to me several times over the last few days. It always seems to clear up after I let it sit for a while. Then, the menu usually starts up OK but after I play around a bit and make some adjustments things go south. Tonight, I was in the Level Output section and made a couple of adjustments. When I went to exit that menu the screen when black for a few seconds and when it came back on the menu was unreadable.
> 
> 
> This doesn't seem to effect the output of my other sources or video menu, just the setup menu. I'm outputting over HDMI to my display and using 1080p/60 but I managed to get in and change a video configuration to 768p/60 then auto to see if that might make a difference but it didn't help.
> 
> 
> Any ideas. This is very frustrating.
> 
> 
> I'm attaching a photo to illustrate this issue.
> 
> 
> CF



Weird, as that looks like an analog type of problem, which shouldn't be happening over HDMI. So it's either something weird inside the D2v, or inside the TV. I would suspect it's a syncing issue in the TV, but that shouldn't happen with a fixed output from the D2v.


Hav you tried setting output to 720p or 1080i?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16872434
> 
> 
> I'm having an issue with the setup menu of my D2v. When I enter the setup menu instead of coming up with the std blue background and white text it comes up totally garbled, "dancing" around on the screen and basically unreadable. The menu functions still work as I can read the display on the unit and make changes using it as guide to what I am doing but using the output to the display isn't possible because it is unreadable.
> 
> 
> This has happened to me several times over the last few days. It always seems to clear up after I let it sit for a while. Then, the menu usually starts up OK but after I play around a bit and make some adjustments things go south. Tonight, I was in the Level Output section and made a couple of adjustments. When I went to exit that menu the screen when black for a few seconds and when it came back on the menu was unreadable.
> 
> 
> This doesn't seem to effect the output of my other sources or video menu, just the setup menu. I'm outputting over HDMI to my display and using 1080p/60 but I managed to get in and change a video configuration to 768p/60 then auto to see if that might make a difference but it didn't help.
> 
> 
> Any ideas. This is very frustrating.
> 
> 
> I'm attaching a photo to illustrate this issue.
> 
> 
> CF



Give Anthem tech support a call. The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source. Failure to display the Setup menu could mean a hardware failure on your video board. If you have any other S-video source devices you could try them to see if you get the same problem. You may need a replacement video board. It could even be a cable that shifted loose during shipment.


However, the tech support folks will almost certainly suggest you start by re-installing the firmware. It's startling how many problems like this can be cured by this simple step.

--Bob


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16872434
> 
> 
> I'm having an issue with the setup menu of my D2v. When I enter the setup menu instead of coming up with the std blue background and white text it comes up totally garbled, "dancing" around on the screen and basically unreadable. The menu functions still work as I can read the display on the unit and make changes using it as guide to what I am doing but using the output to the display isn't possible because it is unreadable.
> 
> 
> This has happened to me several times over the last few days. It always seems to clear up after I let it sit for a while. Then, the menu usually starts up OK but after I play around a bit and make some adjustments things go south. Tonight, I was in the Level Output section and made a couple of adjustments. When I went to exit that menu the screen when black for a few seconds and when it came back on the menu was unreadable.
> 
> 
> This doesn't seem to effect the output of my other sources or video menu, just the setup menu. I'm outputting over HDMI to my display and using 1080p/60 but I managed to get in and change a video configuration to 768p/60 then auto to see if that might make a difference but it didn't help.
> 
> 
> Any ideas. This is very frustrating.
> 
> 
> I'm attaching a photo to illustrate this issue.
> 
> 
> CF



This is very similar to the issue that I have had with my D2 since day one.


The main difference, though, is that after getting the garbled menu like you have, I would lose the menu entirely and just have a blue screen.


Anthem was willing to switch it out for me, but I never had it done largely because it only does it about 1/4 of the time and I didn't want to go through the hassle.


There hasn't been any noticeable change, better or worse, since I have had the D2.


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/16872936
> 
> 
> The main difference, though, is that after getting the garbled menu like you have, I would lose the menu entirely and just have a blue screen.



Mine will progress to that stage after a while Rob. Attached is a photo of what looks like in the almost all blue stage.


----------



## Rob Tomlin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16873043
> 
> 
> Mine will progress to that stage after a while Rob. Attached is a photo of what looks like in the almost all blue stage.



It's hard to say if it is exactly the same issue with the same cause, but it sure is similar if it isn't.


Call Anthem. They will have you go through several steps as they did with me, and they probably won't work, which means your unit has a road trip in its future.


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rob Tomlin* /forum/post/16873083
> 
> 
> It's hard to say if it is exactly the same issue with the same cause, but it sure is similar if it isn't.
> 
> 
> Call Anthem. They will have you go through several steps as they did with me, and they probably won't work, which means your unit has a road trip in its future.



Thanks Rob.


Great, I've owned it less than a week and will have to ship it off to Canada. I wonder how long that will take. Ugh. This makes me wonder if I made the right choice in choosing the D2v over the AVP-A1HDCI.


Glad I didn't sell the 3808CI yet.


BTW, I just reloaded the firmware which made no difference.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16873175
> 
> 
> Thanks Rob.
> 
> 
> Great, I've owned it less than a week and will have to ship it off to Canada. I wonder how long that will take. Ugh. This makes me wonder if I made the right choice in choosing the D2v over the AVP-A1HDCI.
> 
> 
> Glad I didn't sell the 3808CI yet.
> 
> 
> BTW, I just reloaded the firmware which made no difference.



Give Anthem a call and let them do their thing. Seriously. They may just surprise you with what they'll do to help a customer with an early hardware problem.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16873175
> 
> 
> Thanks Rob.
> 
> 
> Great, I've owned it less than a week and will have to ship it off to Canada. I wonder how long that will take. Ugh. This makes me wonder if I made the right choice in choosing the D2v over the AVP-A1HDCI.
> 
> 
> Glad I didn't sell the 3808CI yet.
> 
> 
> BTW, I just reloaded the firmware which made no difference.



Charlie, I feel for you. I was there with my D2V as well. I actually ended up with a replacement unit in my rack before I sent off the broken one - so not very painful in the end.


Talk to the guys at Anthem and they are super helpful.


Also - think of this scenario with Denon......any chance youd end up talking to the same guy every time you called Tech support? Or having his direct email address? Having them answer an email within an hour of it being sent? Or them sending you a new unit before the old one goes back? We all know the answers to that!!!


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

tech at anthemav dot com


All @sonicfrontiers.com e-mail accounts are closed. If you sent a message to the old sfitech address over the last few days and didn't get a response, it's lost in cyberspace. Please re-send, sorry for the inconvenience.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've sent a PM to LEVESQUE asking him to update the Anthem tech support email address at the top of the first post of this thread.


ETA: Done!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The processor firmware link on Anthem's password protected download page has just been updated to include the old V1.21d firmware for the original AVM 40, AVM 50, and D2. Presumably this old firmware (from October, 2007) has been put up temporarily to help some customer diagnose a problem. Or possibly they were put up to help some customer recover from installing the V1.47c "test" firmware.


The "test" firmware versions remain V1.47c for the AVM 50 and D2, and V2.07e for the AVM 50v and D2v.


BEWARE: Neither of these "test" versions should be installed before you read the release notes posts above in this thread!

--Bob


----------



## RudyR1999

I used to have a post bookmarked on the setup of the PS3 for the Anthem D2. Can someone either provide me with the link or let me know what settings the PS3 needs to be set at.


Thanks,

Rudy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RudyR1999* /forum/post/16878519
> 
> 
> I used to have a post bookmarked on the setup of the PS3 for the Anthem D2. Can someone either provide me with the link or let me know what settings the PS3 needs to be set at.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Rudy



In the PS3, in Settings > Display do the Automatic setup for HDMI display resolutions and accept 1080p at the end of that (along with the other choices), then continue on and do the Automatic setup for HDMI audio choices and accept those results. These two steps tell the PS3 all the different audio/video choices the D2 will allow.


For video settings, set the YCbCr or RGB output choice as Automatic, set Super White ON and set RGB FULL, set 1080p/24 as Automatic. For SD-DVD playback, you can't avoid using the de-interlacing in the PS3, so feel free to also set its upscaler to Normal (i.e., 1080p output) for those. I don't recommend the PS3 for quality SD-DVD viewing.


For audio settings, set HDMI LPCM.


In the D2, go to Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space for that input and select Extended RGB (instead of Studio RGB). The Auto setting for YCbCr input will also still be checked. Extended RGB input data format for RGB input matches the RGB Full setting you just made in the PS3 -- which applies to PS3 games and to display of its XMB user interface. Blu-Ray and SD-DVD discs will be output as YCbCr by the PS3 and the Auto setting in the D2 is what matches that.

--Bob


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16876119
> 
> 
> The processor firmware link on Anthem's password protected download page has just been updated to include the old V1.21d firmware for the original AVM 40, AVM 50, and D2. Presumably this old firmware (from October, 2007) has been put up temporarily to help some customer diagnose a problem. Or possibly they were put up to help some customer recover from installing the V1.47c "test" firmware.
> 
> 
> The "test" firmware versions remain V1.47c for the AVM 50 and D2, and V2.07e for the AVM 50v and D2v.
> 
> 
> BEWARE: Neither of these "test" versions should be installed before you read the release notes posts above in this thread!
> 
> --Bob




May be not so much to diagnose a problem as potentially to recover their D2's from a failed firmware upgrade. Check my post at #22819


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16873413
> 
> 
> Give Anthem a call and let them do their thing. Seriously. They may just surprise you with what they'll do to help a customer with an early hardware problem.--Bob



Anthem is going to replace my D2v with a new one. Since their production is going to be down next week for inventory it will be at least the following week before it gets shipped. Add another 8-10 days to get here so I'm guessing it will be here about 3 weeks. They will ship to my dealer and I will exchange out my complete unit for the new one (including ARC kit etc.). Since my defective one works fine except for the inability to use the setup menu for more than a minute or 2 before it wigs out it isn't an issue using it until the new one gets here.


Piero was very good and had no problem replacing the unit.


CF


----------



## Charlie_Phogg

Duplicate


----------



## aramb

Yes... my dealer just called me a few days ago to tell me about the inventory shutdown which is going to delay the estimated shipment of my new AVM50v until Aug 7.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/16882107
> 
> 
> Anthem is going to replace my D2v with a new one. Since their production is going to be down next week for inventory it will be at least the following week before it gets shipped. Add another 8-10 days to get here so I'm guessing it will be here about 3 weeks. They will ship to my dealer and I will exchange out my complete unit for the new one (including ARC kit etc.). Since my defective one works fine except for the inability to use the setup menu for more than a minute or 2 before it wigs out it isn't an issue using it until the new one gets here.
> 
> 
> Piero was very good and had no problem replacing the unit.
> 
> 
> CF



There you go.


Warranty replacement units always jump to the front of the shipment queue.


Travel time in shipment may also be faster than you expect. All the shipping services have excess capacity right now. Recent shipments from Anthem to the east coast have only taken 3 days. Anyway, looks like you'll be in good shape soon.


When you get your new ARC kit, just find the two new licensing/calibration files on the ARC install CD and copy them to where they get installed on your Windows PC (Your Main Drive > Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction). The two files you need are the two with names made up up of numbers -- the serial number of your new D2v and the serial number of your new ARC mic. The correct install location will also have the 2 original files, which you can just leave in place.


Be sure you don't get the two ARC mics mixed up. Keep the new mic since it is uniquely matched to its mic calibration data file and that file is keyed to the serial number of your new unit.


-------------------------------------------


In the ARC install kit, also find the Settings Backup and Live Video Settings Editor utility programs. Copy these to your PC (anywhere -- there's no "install" procedure for these). You can use Settings Backup to save your Setup menu settings to a PC file for transfer to your new D2v. It works over the serial connection. It is trivially easy to use.


You can use Live Video Settings Editor to save your Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file. Connect to the D2v, power it on. In LVSE, "Get" the settings from the D2v, and "Save" to a PC file. To restore these to your new unit, run LVSE, use "File menu > Open" to open your file of saved settings, and "Load" them to the D2v.


For your ARC setup, you will need to re-Measure from scratch. The ARC licensing is keyed to the unit serial number, so you won't be able to Upload your old ARC results into the new unit.


When you've got everything set up, don't forget to go into Setup > Save & Load Settings and Save your User and/or Installer settings for easy reloading if ever needed.

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

Yes, warranty replacements are faster by taking precedence over new units being shipped to first time buyers.


I feel the pain, with the D2V, I ended up going through 2 units before the third one that I have now (knock on wood here) which has been performing flawlessly. The wait is awful but when it works...it's worth it!!!


Plus, when picking up the third unit & since I am 20 minutes from them, I got a grand tour of their entire facility..totally fascinating. Their home theater room is to die for (and, it was running with a D2...not a D2v...at the time).


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16882277
> 
> 
> There you go.
> 
> 
> Warranty replacement units always jump to the front of the shipment queue.
> 
> 
> Travel time in shipment may also be faster than you expect. All the shipping services have excess capacity right now. Recent shipments from Anthem to the east coast have only taken 3 days. Anyway, looks like you'll be in good shape soon.
> 
> 
> When you get your new ARC kit, just find the two new licensing/calibration files on the ARC install CD and copy them to where they get installed on your Windows PC (Your Main Drive > Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction). The two files you need are the two with names made up up of numbers -- the serial number of your new D2v and the serial number of your new ARC mic. The correct install location will also have the 2 original files, which you can just leave in place.
> 
> 
> Be sure you don't get the two ARC mics mixed up. Keep the new mic since it is uniquely matched to its mic calibration data file and that file is keyed to the serial number of your new unit.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In the ARC install kit, also find the Settings Backup and Live Video Settings Editor utility programs. Copy these to your PC (anywhere -- there's no "install" procedure for these). You can use Settings Backup to save your Setup menu settings to a PC file for transfer to your new D2v. It works over the serial connection. It is trivially easy to use.
> 
> 
> You can use Live Video Settings Editor to save your Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file. Connect to the D2v, power it on. In LVSE, "Get" the settings from the D2v, and "Save" to a PC file. To restore these to your new unit, run LVSE, use "File menu > Open" to open your file of saved settings, and "Load" them to the D2v.
> 
> 
> For your ARC setup, you will need to re-Measure from scratch. The ARC licensing is keyed to the unit serial number, so you won't be able to Upload your old ARC results into the new unit.
> 
> 
> When you've got everything set up, don't forget to go into Setup > Save & Load Settings and Save your User and/or Installer settings for easy reloading if ever needed.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I knew about the two ARC files and backing up my settings/video settings but was unaware of the ARC licensing limitation and the need to remeasure. Thats not a problem though as I wanted to remeasure anyway just to see how consistent it was between two different tests. I took your suggestion and picked up a mic stand with boom before my original D2v arrived which makes positioning the mic where I want it trivially easy. It is certainly much easier than trying to use my camera tripod with a ball head that I used with the Audyssey mic.


----------



## /dev/null

Well, goodbye NAD T715, hello 50v!!!

















Mine just came in today, and I'll be swapping my pre's tomorrow! I'm really looking forward to having a preamp that works. Properly.










I must say, I'm already impressed with the difference in the build quality between the two machines. Even looking inside, the NAD's boards look... wimpy, almost cheap. The build of the Anthem looks like a tank, and quite well laid out, not just everything tossed willy-nilly on the boards.


Look for pics and impressions to follow tomorrow....


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by */dev/null* /forum/post/16884669
> 
> 
> Well, hello 50v!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look for pics and impressions to follow tomorrow....



Congrats...


What constitutes it being tomorrow?


----------



## /dev/null




> Quote:
> What constitutes it being tomorrow?



Oh, a wise guy, huh? Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk... *pokes warpdrv in the eyes*











Seriously, though... I just finished getting everything hooked up and dialed in using the ARC kit. Ran it once in full auto, and wasn't happy with the way it set some of my speakers, so I kicked it over to custom. Perfect! (IMO)


Sound quality. It's amazing. I was not prepared for what I heard. Even with no RoomEq applied, the multichannel integration was stunning. With my 175, it always sounded like 7 separate speakers. Now it sounds like... well, a sound-field. Played stuff from analog to SACD, including some classical, jazz, acoustic, rock. Everything was spot on.


Video. Well, I didn't think it was possible, but even my Time Warner cable looks halfway decent now. Set the box to 1080i/720p/480i. That way, nothing is being scaled in the box, letting the 50 do everything. A little noise reduction here, a push there... Wow. PS3, HD-DVD, and AppleTV all look great as well. I'm sure over time, I'll get everything even more dialed in, but even now, I'm truly impressed.


That was money well spent. I don't see myself getting rid of this piece for quite some time.


Anyone want a slightly used T175 with all the firmware updates?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well now! I think that explains why these guys are so eager to head your way!







































--Bob


----------



## WestCoastD

does ARC do a better job than Audyssey?


----------



## /dev/null

IMO, yes.


Audessey was doing some very weird things in my room. ARC did a much better job even before I started tweaking it. Oh, yeah... you can adjust how ARC works even with out a 'Pro' kit. With my 175, I pretty much ran it with no room correction. This, I like. Just finished watching Watchmen. Very impressive. Other than having to turn it down a couple of times (to avoid really ticking off the downstairs neighbors) I am quite satisfied.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Oppo has new "public beta" software out now for the BDP-83 Blu-Ray player (see the Oppo support page). If you are a D2v or AVM 50v user, and if your display is NOT a 36-bit HDMI Deep Color display, I suggest you give the new "30 bit (Dithered)" Deep Color output setting a try in the Oppo instead of the 36-bit setting I previously recommended.


With the V2.07e "test" firmware in my D2v, I find that the dithering in the Oppo produces better results than sending 36-bit to the D2v and letting the D2v adjust that for my 24 bit display. Gray scale and color ramps are smoother and less likely to result in "false contours".


[Dithering is an alternative to simply truncating or rounding the extra low-order bits of the video. It blends those rounding bits over adjacent pixels.]


It's not obvious WHY dithering in the Oppo should be better. I don't know if this is a problem in the Oppo beta firmware or in the D2v beta firmware. I've sent info to Anthem and Oppo. Keep in mind that my display takes 1360x768p Studio RGB into its DVI input (and thus 24 bit). So if you have a 1080p display (whether or not it is 36 bit), there may be no issue here.


Also keep in mind that the content coming off the disc (either SD-DVD or Blu-Ray) is only 24 bit. Actually even less than that since color data is only recorded half as often vertically and horizontally as gray scale data. So the extra bits in a 36-bit stream are nothing more than rounding bits from video processing so far.


Anyway, try "30 bit (Dithered)" from the Oppo and see for yourself. If you see a significant difference, I'd appreciate it if you report here.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by */dev/null* /forum/post/16888538
> 
> 
> Oh, a wise guy, huh? Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk... *pokes warpdrv in the eyes*




OUCH !!!! heheheh


Totally glad to hear about your improvements with the 50v coming from the T175... !!!!!


Thats awesome !!


----------



## WestCoastD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16890143
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that my display takes 1360x768p Studio RGB into its DVI input (and thus 24 bit). So if you have a 1080p display (whether or not it is 36 bit), there may be no issue here



which display brand/model are you using? I'm using a Pioneer Kuro (PDP-4280HD), was trying to figure out if it does 36-bit?


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I thought in the Oppo firmware upgrade there was a stage where default settings were applied. However I can't find it on their support page.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16891852
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I thought in the Oppo firmware upgrade there was a stage where default settings were applied. However I can't find it on their support page.
> 
> John



It's not required, but I think most people are doing it as a matter of course since re-entering your personal settings from scratch is pretty quick anyway.


The 0722 "public beta" firmware has a bug which causes the first Reset Defaults after the install to hang up for some people. The workaround is in the release notes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WestCoastD* /forum/post/16891721
> 
> 
> which display brand/model are you using? I'm using a Pioneer Kuro (PDP-4280HD), was trying to figure out if it does 36-bit?



It's a Fujitsu P50. Still looks great when properly set up.


I don't believe any of the Pioneer HD models were HDMI V1.3, so I don't think they can possibly support 36 bit. I think that came with their FD models, but I haven't been tracking them that closely.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Anyone hear anything about Anthem having a trade-in program starting in September? Any word on whether it will apply to trading in AVM's for D2's?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/16892115
> 
> 
> Anyone hear anything about Anthem having a trade-in program starting in September? Any word on whether it will apply to trading in AVM's for D2's?



So far, the only word people have received is on trade ins in lieu of upgrades. I.e., D2 -> D2v and AVM 50 -> AVM 50v. But I suspect you can probably work something out with Anthem if you want to go from an AVM 50 to a D2v. You should probably give them a call or have your dealer do it.

--Bob


----------



## WestCoastD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16891970
> 
> 
> I don't believe any of the Pioneer HD models were HDMI V1.3, so I don't think they can possibly support 36 bit. I think that came with their FD models, but I haven't been tracking them that closely



I thought, for sure, my Kuro is HDMI v1.3? I'll have to confirm........


Thanks!


----------



## facke02

The Kuro's are HDMI v1.3 and do support 36 bit. Mine displays it everything I power it up or change sources. At least the 1080p versions are.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16893683
> 
> 
> The Kuro's are HDMI v1.3 and do support 36 bit. Mine displays it everything I power it up or change sources. At least the 1080p versions are.



The 1080p versions are the FD models, yes?

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16894830
> 
> 
> The 1080p versions are the FD models, yes?
> 
> --Bob



Yes, the FD models are 1080p.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Hey Bob,


Do you know if night mode or enabled dynamic compression works with the D2 and the Oppo BD83. Last night I watched the watchmen (great movie) but it's a bit of a pain with the little one sleeping. I know (for whatever reason) the night mode doesn't work with the PS3. I'm wondering if it's the same with the Oppo. I thought you said it was an HDMI issue but I can't remember.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16895437
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> Do you know if night mode or enabled dynamic compression works with the D2 and the Oppo BD83. Last night I watched the watchmen (great movie) but it's a bit of a pain with the little one sleeping. I know (for whatever reason) the night mode doesn't work with the PS3. I'm wondering if it's the same with the Oppo. I thought you said it was an HDMI issue but I can't remember.



Really? I thought it was a pretty bad movie. I loved the graphic novel back ~20 years ago, but I'm thinking it was both a factor of being 20 years younger, and the times being so different.


I think the source material hasn't held up too well, and the short-cuts of the movie just exacerbated that, so the end result was a trivial, boring movie.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16895437
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> 
> Do you know if night mode or enabled dynamic compression works with the D2 and the Oppo BD83. Last night I watched the watchmen (great movie) but it’s a bit of a pain with the little one sleeping. I know (for whatever reason) the night mode doesn’t work with the PS3. I’m wondering if it’s the same with the Oppo. I thought you said it was an HDMI issue but I can’t remember.



"Dynamics" is a function of the decoding. Since the PS3 does its own decoding you have to turn on Dynamic Range Compression in the PS3. Normally you would leave that off.


You can do the same thing in the Oppo when sending LPCM to the D2. The factory default in the Oppo is "Automatic" and I usually recommend folks turn OFF Dynamic Range Compression in the Oppo unless they actually need it.


If you Bitstream lossy DD5.1 or DTS tracks to the D2 you can use the Dynamics control in the D2. See Section 4.8.10 of the D2 Manual. Note that Dynamics will only work if you have 5.1 or more speakers active *AND* if the track itself contains the extra meta-data that enables it. Not all tracks will support this.


Note that turning on Dynamics does not, by itself do the full job of reducing the volume. The idea is that you turn on Dynamics and ALSO lower the main volume. The Dynamics function RAISES the volume of quieter passages so they can still be heard even at the lower volume setting. Meanwhile louder passages are reduced in volume because you have lowered the main volume setting (and also some effect from the Dynamics process itself).


-----------------------------------


As an alternative, press and release the Setup button on the D2 remote and you will be able to use the Up/Down arrow keys to temporarily reduce the Sub output from the D2. Don't forget to reset it back to 0 dB when you no longer need that. This works regardless of the type of track you are playing or where the decoding is being done.


For tracks with an LFE channel you can press the Setup button TWICE and you will then be able to temporarily lower just the LFE contribution to the Sub output (bass steered to the Sub from the main channel speakers will not be reduced).


These "temporary" settings act on top of the speaker volume trims in the Setup > Level Calibration menu. I.e., those Setup menu settings are not changed when you adjust these "temporary" levels.


ETA: If you play around with these "temporary" speaker level settings and get confused about how to reset them, there's a trick which will reset *ALL* the "temporary" settings at once:


* Save User Settings

* Reload Factory Defaults (if you lose video, continue via the Front Panel display)

* Load Saved User Settings


The "temporary" settings are not saved so this resets all of them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I understand Nick is out of the office this week (hopefully getting some vacation). So I don't expect we'll see any new "test" firmware releases this week.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Hello Everyone. I need to change my sub from Polk PSW1000 to JL Audio fathem F113.

Anybody has any idea about this sub and will it make a good difference moving from Polk PSW1000 to JL?

I really appreciate it.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16896261
> 
> 
> Hello Everyone. I need to change my sub from Polk PSW1000 to JL Audio fathem F113.
> 
> Anybody has any idea about this sub and will it make a good difference moving from Polk PSW1000 to JL?
> 
> I really appreciate it.



That is quite an upgrade. Personally I think you can get better value (if you are not too size limited) but to be honest, though there are likely lot's of opinions here, you are probably better off posting in the sub forum for such specific advice.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/16897477
> 
> 
> That is quite an upgrade. Personally I think you can get better value (if you are not too size limited) but to be honest, though there are likely lot's of opinions here, you are probably better off posting in the sub forum for such specific advice.



Thanks Mike.

I am too size limited. I cannot move anything or add new unit without replacing one. The Polk PSW1000 is an average sub but was woundering if I could get a noticable difference to JL Fathem F113.


----------



## facke02

I recently acquired a JL F113 and it's great. I came from a pair Def Tech mains that had built-in subs. No comparison.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16897705
> 
> 
> I recently acquired a JL F113 and it's great. I came from a pair Def Tech mains that had built-in subs. No comparison.



Thanks facke02. Now I am almost certain it will be a good upgrade.


----------



## WestCoastD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/16893683
> 
> 
> The Kuro's are HDMI v1.3 and do support 36 bit. Mine displays it everything I power it up or change sources. At least the 1080p versions are.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16894830
> 
> 
> The 1080p versions are the FD models, yes?



yeah my PDP-4280HD (42 inch) Kuro does have 4 HDMI v1.3 inputs,

(1024 X 768). I believe it supports deep-color.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...DP-4280HD.Kuro 
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pi...PDP-4280HD.pdf


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16896261
> 
> 
> Hello Everyone. I need to change my sub from Polk PSW1000 to JL Audio fathem F113.
> 
> Anybody has any idea about this sub and will it make a good difference moving from Polk PSW1000 to JL?
> 
> I really appreciate it.



Uh, yeah, that would be a HUGE upgrade. Like going from a 3 to a 9.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16895648
> 
> 
> Really? I thought it was a pretty bad movie. I loved the graphic novel back ~20 years ago, but I'm thinking it was both a factor of being 20 years younger, and the times being so different.
> 
> 
> I think the source material hasn't held up too well, and the short-cuts of the movie just exacerbated that, so the end result was a trivial, boring movie.



I know this is totally OT, but I tried to watch Watchmen Friday and only made it about 40 minutes before I gave up.

I think this movie is aimed at people who weren't alive until 1989 or so and have no knowledge of history.

Trying again tonight but I might have to switch over to higher brow stuff like Pineapple Express.


Getting back to a more on topic subject:

I think I ran into the 96khz limit of my D2.

I got the Neil Young Archives BR set last week.

The intro played fine but when I went to the 24/192 music, nada









Had to go into the Sound settings of the PS3 and click the 24/96 option to get audio.

Actually I'm a bit surprised there hasn't been more comment on this with the number of PS3s out there.

Do most AVRs and pre/pros accept 24/192 via HDMI?


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/16899039
> 
> 
> I know this is totally OT, but I tried to watch Watchmen Friday and only made it about 40 minutes before I gave up.



Me too, I gave up around the same time! Wonder if it got better?!


----------



## shawnwalters

Another OT post, sorry in advance, it's just the members in this thread are so knowledgeable










Bob or others - my father is new to the Blu Ray era and just got his first blu ray player and he also just bought a used HD DVD player. Anyway, his TV can only accept 1080i via component (no hdmi). He says when he outputs 1080p/i movies via component, he gets a thin blue line at the top of the upper black bar on the picture. When he changes the output to 480p or 480i it goes away. It happens on both players and he's tried swapping out the cables.


I told him I thought it was the copyright information, and he basically said ok, but wanted to know if there was anything he could do about it.


So is the copyright the culprit probably and is there anything he can do to get rid of it (short of buying a new tv with hdmi)?


Thanks,

Shawn


----------



## TREVLAN

Hello folks.


Been awhile. Question that I hope someone can answer.


I have the AVM50, I currently have a SXRD60" sony TV, but will be adding a VPL-HW10 to the mix for movies.

Since I don't have the "V" version I only have one OUTPUT.

So question is how do I set it to output to the HW10 or to the SXRD?

What would be the best work around?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/16899434
> 
> 
> Another OT post, sorry in advance, it's just the members in this thread are so knowledgeable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob or others - my father is new to the Blu Ray era and just got his first blu ray player and he also just bought a used HD DVD player. Anyway, his TV can only accept 1080i via component (no hdmi). He says when he outputs 1080p/i movies via component, he gets a thin blue line at the top of the upper black bar on the picture. When he changes the output to 480p or 480i it goes away. It happens on both players and he's tried swapping out the cables.
> 
> 
> I told him I thought it was the copyright information, and he basically said ok, but wanted to know if there was anything he could do about it.
> 
> 
> So is the copyright the culprit probably and is there anything he can do to get rid of it (short of buying a new tv with hdmi)?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Shawn



It's probably just the TV. It probably has overscan at 480i/480p (so he's losing some image at the edges) but not at 1080i, and it is just mishandling the upper edge at 1080i. There may be a setting in the TV to turn on overscan for 1080i, or he may be able to adjust the vertical positioning up a line to lose that noise line at the top.

--Bob


----------



## ajeruns




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/16900611
> 
> 
> Hello folks.
> 
> 
> Been awhile. Question that I hope someone can answer.
> 
> 
> I have the AVM50, I currently have a SXRD60" sony TV, but will be adding a VPL-HW10 to the mix for movies.
> 
> Since I don't have the "V" version I only have one OUTPUT.
> 
> So question is how do I set it to output to the HW10 or to the SXRD?
> 
> What would be the best work around?



I also have the AVM 50 and 60" Sony SXRD, which only accepts 1080i. Installed a JVC RS 10 to my system several months ago. I purchased an Audio Authority HDMI distribution amp/splitter. Set up the processor to output 1080i to the Sony AND 1080p to the projector. Works great for me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/16900611
> 
> 
> Hello folks.
> 
> 
> Been awhile. Question that I hope someone can answer.
> 
> 
> I have the AVM50, I currently have a SXRD60" sony TV, but will be adding a VPL-HW10 to the mix for movies.
> 
> Since I don't have the "V" version I only have one OUTPUT.
> 
> So question is how do I set it to output to the HW10 or to the SXRD?
> 
> What would be the best work around?



You have two choices:


1) An HDMI splitter between the AVM 50 and the TVs. It's been a while since we discussed splitters in here. Many of them cause their own problems with HDMI handshaking. I don't know any I can recommend to you but I'd probably start by looking at Monoprice.


2) Run Component instead of HDMI to the normal TV. Now that also means you will need to run Component input from the sources you want to use on that TV (since HDMI input can not be converted to Component output due to copy protection). If that's just your cable or satellite TV box then that's no problem. The same Component input WILL be converted to HDMI for output to your movies TV.


The normal TV will likely accept only up to 1080i on Component input, which means you can not use 1080p processed output from the AVM 50 for it. If so, you can hook it up to the Zone 2 Component output on the AVM 50 and set that to "pass through" unprocessed video from the selected Component source. You can also set Zone 2 to use the source you select for the Main processing path so that you don't have to select that source separately. If there's no Component input from the selected source the Component output will be blank. In Setup > Source Setup for each Component source you send the Component input to the scaler (for processing for you movies TV) and you also specify the correct Component input jacks on the Component In line (for unprocessed "pass through").

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16898541
> 
> 
> Uh, yeah, that would be a HUGE upgrade. Like going from a 3 to a 9.



Thanks AbMagFab. I am certainly upgrading.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/16900611
> 
> 
> Hello folks.
> 
> 
> Been awhile. Question that I hope someone can answer.
> 
> 
> I have the AVM50, I currently have a SXRD60" sony TV, but will be adding a VPL-HW10 to the mix for movies.
> 
> Since I don't have the "V" version I only have one OUTPUT.
> 
> So question is how do I set it to output to the HW10 or to the SXRD?
> 
> What would be the best work around?



AVM50->DVI Doctor->HDMI Splitter -


The DVI Doctor (or Detective, whichever one supports HDCP) will help ensure you don't get any HDMI/HDCP handshake errors. It might take a couple seconds for the TV to sync up when you first turn it on, but it will always work.


Make sure you configure the DVI Doctor to the TV that supports configurations for both TVs (e.g. 1080p60 + 1080p24, or whatever you plan to use).


----------



## jayray

Nick goes on holidays and the whole thread goes with him









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16924711
> 
> 
> Nick goes on holidays and the whole thread goes with him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Yes THREE DAYS of Quiet.


Why did you WAKE US UP Jay Ray


----------



## Ron Alcasid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/16899039
> 
> 
> I know this is totally OT, but I tried to watch Watchmen Friday and only made it about 40 minutes before I gave up.



I didn't care for it either. I got so bored, I got my laptop out and started surfing the web.


----------



## jamhead

Somewhat off topic...

Do you guys think an Anthem MCA 20 would sufficiently drive a pair of Dynaudio Contours s3.4 (86db/4ohm) in a fairly large room? Or is the Anthem not quite up to the level of my speakers??


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamhead* /forum/post/16925769
> 
> 
> Somewhat off topic...
> 
> Do you guys think an Anthem MCA 20 would sufficiently drive a pair of Dynaudio Contours s3.4 (86db/4ohm) in a fairly large room? Or is the Anthem not quite up to the level of my speakers??



It should, mca20 is rated at 370w/4 ohms. the continous power handling of the 3.4 is just 270w. The real question is if the S3.4's are the right speaker for your LARGE room.


----------



## pjpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16924711
> 
> 
> Nick goes on holidays and the whole thread goes with him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Hmm. Haven't heard from Bob either. Could they be one and the... nahhh


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjpoon* /forum/post/16927332
> 
> 
> Hmm. Haven't heard from Bob either. Could they be one and the... nahhh



I wonder if Bob wears glasses during the day and hides his cape









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjpoon* /forum/post/16927332
> 
> 
> Hmm. Haven't heard from Bob either. Could they be one and the... nahhh



Why that's just silly. Besides, everybody KNOWS I'm just a mild mannered reporter for a great, metropolitan, AVS thread.

--Bob (But sheesh! The things I could tell you about Batman) P.


----------



## MDRbone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cragger* /forum/post/16736262
> 
> 
> I am wondering if the same upgrade will apply for the avm30 to be upgraded to the avm50v.It probably have to be traded in do it being more "cost effective".
> 
> 
> Ran



Here's the offer on the older AVM30 units:

_There will be no hardware conversion of any unit to a 'V' series processor. We will begin a trade in / up change program though. You can receive a new AVM 50V for a traded in AVM 30. Cost is $4599_


----------



## jamhead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/16927110
> 
> 
> It should, mca20 is rated at 370w/4 ohms. the continous power handling of the 3.4 is just 270w. The real question is if the S3.4's are the right speaker for your LARGE room.




Thank you for the reply. Yes, definitely, the Contours are the right speaker..........they sound sooo sweet.


----------



## snweiler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MDRbone* /forum/post/16928066
> 
> 
> Here's the offer on the older AVM30 units:
> 
> _There will be no hardware conversion of any unit to a 'V' series processor. We will begin a trade in / up change program though. You can receive a new AVM 50V for a traded in AVM 30. Cost is $4599_



A new AVM50v can be bought for less than this. It makes more sense to buy a new AVM 50v and try to sell the used AVM 30.


Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Looks like all the Paradigm and Anthem web addresses are down this afternoon. Wonder if any changes are in the works?


ETA: Never mind. They're back. Doesn't look like anything has changed.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16942258
> 
> 
> Looks like all the Paradigm and Anthem web addresses are down this afternoon. Wonder if any changes are in the works?
> 
> 
> ETA: Never mind. They're back. Doesn't look like anything has changed.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, in the test area, 1.47f is up for D2 and the others. I wonder if we need that special power supply







Anthem didn't say anything about restrictions. No i'm not going to be the first one to try it either. I started with 1.06


----------



## jayray

Is 2.07f a new firmware version? I'm having trouble remebering the diff letters. The tech page has this version in the folder for the D2v as well.

John


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16943289
> 
> 
> Is 2.07f a new firmware version? I'm having trouble remebering the diff letters. The tech page has this version in the folder for the D2v as well.
> 
> John



I believe 2.07E was your last update, and the f. came out today. But Bob for sure would know, he maybe taking a nap


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/16943374
> 
> 
> I believe 2.07E was your last update, and the f. came out today. But Bob for sure would know, he maybe taking a nap



thanks, I saw the release notes and they are diff.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" Firmware Versions for Both Old & New Processors now on Password Protected Download Page!*


As mentioned above, new "test" firmware versions have appeared this afternoon on Anthem's password protected download page.


For the D2v and AVM 50v, the new "test" version is V2.07f. It is dated July 22. (The previous "test" version, V2.07e, was dated July 20.) My guess would be it has been sitting waiting for Nick to get back into the office to post it.


It looks like the only change is in the HDMI code.

*BEWARE! THE *WARNING* STILL EXISTS ABOUT INSTALLING THIS VERSION! A FAILURE DURING THE INSTALL MAY REQUIRE RETURNING THE ANTHEM TO THE FACTORY FOR REPROGRAMMING!*


The change notes since V2.06 read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> WARNING: Do not attempt to load beta software unless the computer and connection is known to successfully update an AVM 50v or D2v. A programming failure may result in the necessity for factory reprogramming.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Faster HDMI lock when switching sources.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07e beta:
> 
> 
> More changes to address video switching, audio dropouts, and audio glitches.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. More changes to video code base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Video processor code base updates.
> 
> 
> 2. Audio DSP code base update.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for Sony as second monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for popping that began in v2.06 with Toshiba XA2 as source.
> 
> 
> 2. New VXP video processor code.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for a DSP problem that affected the AVM 50v with 44.1 kHz input.



============================================


Meanwhile, the "test" version for the original D2 and AVM 50 is V1.47f. It is dated July 28. (The prior "test" version, V1.47c, was dated July 7.)


The change notes since V1.33 read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v1.47f beta:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for bug that prevented ARC from uploading.
> 
> 
> 
> v1.47c beta:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. New HDMI code base.
> 
> 
> 2. Fix for AVM 50 DACs not muting while HDMI input has video without audio.



Note that there is no mention of the restriction to newer versions of the D2 and AVM 50 hardware (spotting EITHER a Red video board, OR a power supply WITHOUT the large Toroidal transformer through the vent holes of your unit means you have the newer hardware.)


However, I note that the older V1.21 firmware is no longer included in the download, and folks have speculated that this older firmware was used to help folks recover if they mistakenly installed this D2 / AVM 50 firmware on the older version of the hardware for those units.


I'll see if I can get a clarification from Nick.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz

I'll see if I can get a clarification from Nick.

--Bob


Bob, thanx that would be great, and i thought you were napping, you waz busy typing


----------



## Ron Alcasid

Can someone PM the link and password to flash eraser?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

D2v "test" firmware V2.07f installed without problems for me.


It appears to have several significant fixes compared to the last "test" version. I've had no cases of the "BRAAAAPP!" noise when audio formats change. I've also had no cases of the unit powering up with no volume (requiring a change to a different input and back to cure).


The failure where bitstream input of the 7.1 DTS-HD MA track from "Hairspray" Blu-ray often got seen only as 5.1 has also been fixed. This problem is one I've been tracking since the very first D2v firmware.


HDMI handshakes appear a little bit faster, and with fewer retries. But of course the basic delays built into the handshake still keep it at about at least 2 seconds.


I've also spotted no new problems.


At this point it looks to me like V2.07f is at least as clean for audio/video as "official" V2.07.


However, there are still problems as yet unfixed:


1) My problem where un-dithered video from the Oppo BDP-83 (whether 36 bit, 30 bit, or 24 bit) doesn't look as good as dithered video (either 30 bit or 24 bit) remains. I see it as subtle amounts of false-contouring. This is especially an issue for the PS3 since you can only get 36 bit (un-dithered) from it when connected to the D2v. This may be another case of a problem specific to the math the D2v needs to do for my display (see (7) below).


2) I still get the "Buzz - SNAP!" noise from my Pioneer DV-59avi SD-DVD player.


3) There is still a problem whenever 5.1 HDMI LPCM (as from the PS3 or the Oppo) only has audio active on 1 channel at a time -- as when playing calibration test tones. Channels other than LF/RF are either missing or corrupted.


4) There is still a problem where 44.1 KHz 2.0 HDMI LPCM input into PLIIx-Movie or PLIIx-Music mode may only produce output on LF/RF/Sub instead of all 5.1 speakers. Workaround: Switch audio mode to anything else and back.


5) There is still a problem where HDMI input from my Comcast HD-DVR can cause black levels to shift a small amount when you change channels and have the box sending 1080i to the D2v for every channel (i.e., no new HDMI handshake, but still a new input detection as the video stream gets interrupted). This is apparently a problem in the loading of settings from the Video Source Adjust menu as it can be cured by toggling Video Source Adjust > Crop Input > Edges -- which of course means it can't be a Comcast bug.


6) Bitstream input of the unusual, 7.1 DTS-HD HR (not MA) track from the "Dragon Encounter" bonus feature on "Sleeping Beauty" Blu-Ray still gets incorrectly seen as 5.1. It may be the D2v is telling the Oppo it will only accept 5.1 for this.


7) There are several video level issues that appear to be related to the particular processing the D2v has to do to convert video to the 1360x768p Studio RGB for my display. YCbCr 4:2:2 input, for example, has black levels too high for any input resolution other than 480i. And the near black video screen put up by Acoustic Reality, "Vivaldi: The Four Seasons", audio-only Blu-Ray generates some large scale, geometric noise patterns -- but only when using 1080p 36-bit video. Folks with 1080p displays may very well not see these problems.


All in all, this "test" version seems to be a significant improvement over the prior test versions released since "official" V2.07. It looks to me like the Anthem engineers are back on track with the new HDMI code.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16945174
> 
> 
> 6) Bitstream input of the unusual, 7.1 DTS-HD HR (not MA) track from the "Dragon Encounter" bonus feature on "Sleeping Beauty" Blu-Ray still gets incorrectly seen as 5.1. It may be the D2v is telling the Oppo it will only accept 5.1 for this.



Sounds like an Oppo problem with this format?


My PCH-A110 bitstreams this properly, and it shows up as 7.1 DTS-HD HR on the D2v, with 7.1 channels input.


My issue is that there is some slight crackling in the audio during the first couple of minutes.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16946992
> 
> 
> Sounds like an Oppo problem with this format?
> 
> 
> My PCH-A110 bitstreams this properly, and it shows up as 7.1 DTS-HD HR on the D2v, with 7.1 channels input.
> 
> 
> My issue is that there is some slight crackling in the audio during the first couple of minutes.



That's surprising, but no, the Oppo sends this bitstream out as 7.1 DTS-HD HR to other AVRs. What sampling frequency is the D2v showing when you bitstream this track?


And just to confirm, we're talking about the "Dragon Encounter" bonus feature, not the main movie.


Also, are you set up with 7.1 speakers? I'm using 5.1, and that may be the bug in the D2v for this.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16947095
> 
> 
> That's surprising, but no, the Oppo sends this bitstream out as 7.1 DTS-HD HR to other AVRs. What sampling frequency is the D2v showing when you bitstream this track?
> 
> 
> And just to confirm, we're talking about the "Dragon Encounter" bonus feature, not the main movie.
> 
> 
> Also, are you set up with 7.1 speakers? I'm using 5.1, and that may be the bug in the D2v for this.
> 
> --Bob



I'll check tonight when I'm home.


Yes, I have a 7.1 speaker setup.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16947203
> 
> 
> I'll check tonight when I'm home.
> 
> 
> Yes, I have a 7.1 speaker setup.



Thanks. If you have a chance, try temporarily turning off the rears in your speaker configuration and see if it still shows the bitstreamed input as 7.1 for Dragon Encounter.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OK, that's it! I temporarily told the D2v I had a 7.1 speaker setup (even though nothing is connected to the Rear outputs) and it immediately recognized 7.1 DTS-HD HR 48KHz bitstream input from the Oppo for that "Dragon Encounter" bonus feature on "Sleeping Beauty" Blu-Ray.


When I switched the D2v back to having only the actual 5.1 speakers, the input now showed as only 5.1 again.


An email is on its way to Nick.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob.

I recently purchased a subsonic sub. But since my D2v is damaged (waiting for Anthem to send me a new one) I cannot run ARC or turn off Room Eq. My previous sub was not subsonic and had -3db at 30 hz. The question is I see very little difference between the new sub and the sub I had before in terms of sound quality. Is it because the ARC equalization is sending the signal like -3db at 30 hz or something wrong with the new sub? I appreciate it.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16948574
> 
> 
> OK, that's it! I temporarily told the D2v I had a 7.1 speaker setup (even though nothing is connected to the Rear outputs) and it immediately recognized 7.1 DTS-HD HR 48KHz bitstream input from the Oppo for that "Dragon Encounter" bonus feature on "Sleeping Beauty" Blu-Ray.
> 
> 
> When I switched the D2v back to having only the actual 5.1 speakers, the input now showed as only 5.1 again.
> 
> 
> An email is on its way to Nick.
> 
> --Bob



Don't you think that is how it SHOULD WORK?


HDMI handshake says what a system can and can not do?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/16949235
> 
> 
> Don't you think that is how it SHOULD WORK?
> 
> 
> HDMI handshake says what a system can and can not do?



Nope. The D2v takes all other 7.1 input just fine -- and down mixes that to 5.1 speakers if that's what you have. This is a bug.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16949115
> 
> 
> Hello Bob.
> 
> I recently purchased a subsonic sub. But since my D2v is damaged (waiting for Anthem to send me a new one) I cannot run ARC or turn off Room Eq. My previous sub was not subsonic and had -3db at 30 hz. The question is I see very little difference between the new sub and the sub I had before in terms of sound quality. Is it because the ARC equalization is sending the signal like -3db at 30 hz or something wrong with the new sub? I appreciate it.



Your old, outdated ARC setup is likely rolling off the low end of the sub.

--Bob


----------



## Kruginator

Tried to install the D2 v1.47f beta software. Same problem as before: install failed.


First time I went back to 1.33, that installed fine, then tried to reinstall 1.47f, it failed again and then 1.33 would not install at all.


I had to go back to 1.21d then upgrade to 1.33 (same procedure as with 1.47c).


Edited version of ordeal: v1.47f beta is not for owners of older versions of the D2.


----------------------------------------------------


Eeesh, I am embarrassed for myself......here is n update to my post above:


Given that I had spent quite a bit of time trying to get the 1.47f software to install, I thought I would persist: when all else fails, get the latest drivers!!!


I use a Vista laptop with USB-to-serial adapter. Once I downloaded and installed the latest drivers for the USB-to-serial adapter, 1.47f installed just fine.


----------



## usxplong

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
Your old, outdated ARC setup is likely rolling off the low end of the sub.

--Bob
Thanks Bob.

Would you review my settings to make sure it is my old d2v not the new sub.

the new subs -3db is below 20hz.

I really appreciate it.

 

1.doc 134.5k . file

 

2.doc 133k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Oppo thinks it possible that the DTS-HD HR track for Dragon Encounter may have 2 "presentations" embedded in it -- both 5.1 and 7.1. If true, this may mean the D2v is actually being rather clever and picking the presentation that requires no down mixing if you have a 5.1 speaker configuration.


Stay tuned. This confusing result may actually be correct after all!


Chalk up another one to ridiculous over-complexity of the DTS specs. (I wonder if they share engineers with HDMI ORG?)

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16949585
> 
> 
> this may mean the D2v is actually being rather clever and picking the presentation that requires no down mixing if you have a 5.1 speaker configuration.



So - Maybe NOT a BUG


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16949577
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> Would you review my settings to make sure it is my old d2v not the new sub.
> 
> the new subs -3db is below 20hz.
> 
> I really appreciate it.



I'll take a look at this later and see what I can spot. I've got a bunch of software releases to install first (Mac OS X 10.5.8 for one).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/16949574
> 
> 
> Tried to install the D2 v1.47f beta software. Same problem as before: install failed.
> 
> 
> First time I went back to 1.33, that installed fine, then tried to reinstall 1.47f, it failed again and then 1.33 would not install at all.
> 
> 
> I had to go back to 1.21d then upgrade to 1.33 (same procedure as with 1.47c).
> 
> 
> Edited version of ordeal: v1.47f beta is not for owners of older versions of the D2.



I just now got confirmation from Nick at Anthem that, yes, the V1.47f "test" firmware for the original D2 and AVM 50 units is restricted to the updated hardware configuration.


If you can spot a red video board (the top board) through the top vents OR can see that your power supply does *NOT* have the big, toroidal transformer, then you must have the updated hardware.


If your video board is not red and you have the toroidal transformer, then you *MAY* have the updated hardware -- there's just no easy way for you to tell. Play it safe and don't install "test" V1.47f in that case.


--------------------------------------


Nick also tells me that there were more changes in V2.07f for the D2v and AVM 50v than the one HDMI update he listed in the release notes. I don't have details, but that matches up with my test results.

--Bob


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16950072
> 
> 
> I just now got confirmation from Nick at Anthem that, yes, the V1.47f "test" firmware for the original D2 and AVM 50 units is restricted to the updated hardware configuration.
> 
> 
> If you can spot a red video board (the top board) through the top vents OR can see that your power supply does *NOT* have the big, toroidal transformer, then you must have the updated hardware.
> 
> 
> If your video board is not red and you have the toroidal transformer, then you *MAY* have the updated hardware -- there's just no easy way for you to tell. Play it safe and don't install "test" V1.47f in that case.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Nick also tells me that there were more changes in V2.07f for the D2v and AVM 50v than the one HDMI update he listed in the release notes. I don't have details, but that matches up with my test results.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks for your input. I updated my post and you will see that I solved my problem: I needed the latest USB-to-serial drivers. Once they were installed 1.47f installed. I am guessing the 1.21d firmware was not that sensitive to my outdated drivers i.e. quite robust.


Anyway, now that I have the D2 back, I will play around with it and see if there is anything material to report back.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/16949574
> 
> 
> I use a Vista laptop with USB-to-serial adapter. Once I downloaded and installed the latest drivers for the USB-to-serial adapter, 1.47f installed just fine.



Suddenly, as if by logic!










--Bob


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16950171
> 
> 
> Suddenly, as if by logic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Indeed!


The install of 1.47f went fine. However, I could not get video over HDMI between the cable box and the TV. The audio was picked up and while there was some HDMI handshake stuff, I was not able to get a picture.


From the DVD player I got audio+picture over HDMI.


So, I am not sure what the incompatibility is between the SA 8300 STB and the D2. But in any event I am done for today, I am reinstalling 1.33 and will wait for the next firmware version and see if I can torture myself some more at a later date.


----------



## lalarsons

Installed 1.47f in our D2 (red video board) tonight. Apple TV now works over HDMI.

No problems with install whatsoever!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/16951271
> 
> 
> Installed 1.47f in our D2 (red video board) tonight. Apple TV now works over HDMI.
> 
> No problems with install whatsoever!



Great! And thanks for confirming Anthem successfully ported the AppleTV fix to the new HDMI code for the original units.

--Bob


----------



## cargen

So does anyone know what Nick is saying about an update for us D2 owners with the older green video board?


I'm feeling neglected .


chris


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes. He is saying, and I quote, "Only so many hours in the day."


Keep in mind that if you have a green (or gray) video board you may still have the hardware change to use the firmware as is. It's just that there's no easy way for you to tell. Presumably they'll have to sort this out before the firmware actually goes "official".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/16949577
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> Would you review my settings to make sure it is my old d2v not the new sub.
> 
> the new subs -3db is below 20hz.
> 
> I really appreciate it.



OK, I'm not sure what I'm looking at here.


As I understand it, you got a new sub which should go deeper into the subsonics, but you are still using your old ARC setup until your replacement D2v arrives. Correct?


And these charts show your old ARC setup?


This ARC setup rolls off the sub fairly significantly at the lowest frequencies -- basically a subsonic filter to protect your old sub which Measured as unable to handle subsonics. So it doesn't surprise me that you can't hear the subsonics from the new sub when using this ARC setup.


Now keep in mind that the reason it is called "subsonic" is because bass at these very low frequencies is felt, rather than heard. In addition, there are very few musical instruments that can produce sounds that low. So most of the subsonic content will come from sound effects -- which means you have to listen to a scene which is known to have good subsonic content so you can feel the rumble.


For example, the "Skadoosh!" explosion scene near the end of "Kung Fu Panda" Blu-Ray is a good choice for this.


------------------------------------


If you want to test your sub now, go into Setup > Source Setup (using the Front Panel if you need to) and turn off Room EQ for that source to disable the ARC processing, then also go into Speaker Configuration > Room Resonance Filter and turn ON THX Ultra2 Sub. This tells the non-ARC setup that your sub is capable of going deep and that it should not apply the normal subsonic filter it uses to protect lesser subwoofers. Leave Boundary Gain OFF for this test. NOTE: The Ultra2 and Boundary Gain settings are ignored if Room EQ is ON since ARC handles all that.


Since you don't know what your sub is really doing down there yet, try low volumes to start.


Also check to see if your sub has its own, internal subsonic filter that you may need to adjust to allow it to produce the lowest frequencies.


--------------------------------------------


Finally, proper reproduction of subsonics requires that the sub be properly sized for the room. The sub has to huff a lot of air to "pressurize the room" and produce enough output at those low frequencies. And if the sub is too small for your room it won't be able to do so regardless of its specs.


Of course all of this will be easy to check when you can make your new ARC setup. You should be using ARC V2.2 and D2v firmware V2.07 for your new setup.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16953282
> 
> 
> OK, I'm not sure what I'm looking at here.
> 
> 
> As I understand it, you got a new sub which should go deeper into the subsonics, but you are still using your old ARC setup until your replacement D2v arrives. Correct?
> 
> 
> And these charts show your old ARC setup?
> 
> 
> This ARC setup rolls off the sub fairly significantly at the lowest frequencies -- basically a subsonic filter to protect your old sub which Measured as unable to handle subsonics. So it doesn't surprise me that you can't hear the subsonics from the new sub when using this ARC setup.
> 
> 
> Now keep in mind that the reason it is called "subsonic" is because bass at these very low frequencies is felt, rather than heard. In addition, there are very few musical instruments that can produce sounds that low. So most of the subsonic content will come from sound effects -- which means you have to listen to a scene which is known to have good subsonic content so you can feel the rumble.
> 
> 
> For example, the "Skadoosh!" explosion scene near the end of "Kung Fu Panda" Blu-Ray is a good choice for this.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you want to test your sub now, go into Setup > Source Setup (using the Front Panel if you need to) and turn off Room EQ for that source to disable the ARC processing, then also go into Speaker Configuration > Room Resonance Filter and turn ON THX Ultra2 Sub. This tells the non-ARC setup that your sub is capable of going deep and that it should not apply the normal subsonic filter it uses to protect lesser subwoofers. Leave Boundary Gain OFF for this test. NOTE: The Ultra2 and Boundary Gain settings are ignored if Room EQ is ON since ARC handles all that.
> 
> 
> Since you don't know what your sub is really doing down there yet, try low volumes to start.
> 
> 
> Also check to see if your sub has its own, internal subsonic filter that you may need to adjust to allow it to produce the lowest frequencies.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Finally, proper reproduction of subsonics requires that the sub be properly sized for the room. The sub has to huff a lot of air to "pressurize the room" and produce enough output at those low frequencies. And if the sub is too small for your room it won't be able to do so regardless of its specs.
> 
> 
> Of course all of this will be easy to check when you can make your new ARC setup. You should be using ARC V2.2 and D2v firmware V2.07 for your new setup.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Appreciate it.

I cannot turn off the Room Eq. If I do I get no sound from d2v. I have also tried turning off and on the d2v with no luck. I was trying the new JL Fathem F113 with the Polk PSW1000 that I have. Not just the subsonic reproduction was not noticable but also the upper frequency reproduction was almost exactly the same between the 2 subs. I was thinking since the ARC is adjusting the sub based on the old ARC the new sub was acting almost exactly the same because it was receiving the same equalization from d2v. Thanks again.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

What do you say Bob? Can we give a cookie to the first person that can confirm they've upgraded an older processor to one of the new v's!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You mean as part of the "trade-in" program, yes? Because of course any number of folks have already replaced a D2 with a D2v in other ways.


But sure! That's worth a cookie.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16954845
> 
> 
> You mean as part of the "trade-in" program, yes? Because of course any number of folks have already replaced a D2 with a D2v in other ways.
> 
> 
> But sure! That's worth a cookie.
> 
> --Bob



Yeppers... trade in program! I was told it kicks off this month.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16950072
> 
> 
> I just now got confirmation from Nick at Anthem that, yes, the V1.47f "test" firmware for the original D2 and AVM 50 units is restricted to the updated hardware configuration.
> 
> 
> If you can spot a red video board (the top board) through the top vents OR can see that your power supply does *NOT* have the big, toroidal transformer, then you must have the updated hardware.
> 
> 
> If your video board is not red and you have the toroidal transformer, then you *MAY* have the updated hardware -- there's just no easy way for you to tell. Play it safe and don't install "test" V1.47f in that case.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Nick also tells me that there were more changes in V2.07f for the D2v and AVM 50v than the one HDMI update he listed in the release notes. I don't have details, but that matches up with my test results.
> 
> --Bob



What if your green board was replaced with a red board? Is the hardware a video board issue, or is it some other hardware change that was made after Anthem started using the red boards?


----------



## AbMagFab

Upgraded to 2.07f. Uneventful. No issues, HDMI seems just as slow to lock on inside the D2v (1080p60 output is static). Audio is the same (no issues before).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/16955488
> 
> 
> What if your green board was replaced with a red board? Is the hardware a video board issue, or is it some other hardware change that was made after Anthem started using the red boards?



If you got a red video board as the swap out then you are good to go for "test" V1.47f.


ETA: Keep in mind that "test" V1.47f firmware for the original D2 and AVM 50 is still just a "test" release, so it may have other issues unrelated to hardware compatibility.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/16956021
> 
> 
> Upgraded to 2.07f. Uneventful. No issues, HDMI seems just as slow to lock on inside the D2v (1080p60 output is static). Audio is the same (no issues before).



The HDMI stuff is redone on both sides of the D2v -- every time -- even if the output isn't changing. For example the source has to re-verify that copy protection is working all the way through to the display.


But once the display is working with the D2v, a re-do of the handshake may go faster because the "right" setup just gets tried first rather than going through the whole rigmarole with retries.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Can I get a little help from a D2v/OPPO bdp-83 owner, please.


I just received my 'blue filter' glasses from Oppo that go with the S&M bluray video calibration that came with the 83. Along with the glasses I was pleasantly surprised to find an AIX audio calibration disc/ HD music sampler.

The insert states that the various calibration tracks are recorded at 96kHz for the highest sampling rate, but it doesn't list what the music tracks are recorded at. I would assume its probably only 96kHz (only! do you see how spoiled I've become), but I would be interested to know if if they are recorded at 192kHz. Since I have the D2 , not the 'v', I would like to see what it would do to a 192kHz source. I beleive its been reported to accept only a 96kHz signal, but I'd like to see for myself. And since I'm too cheap to spend $30 for a 2L disc to find out, could someone who has received the AIX disc from Oppo please check and see what rate the music tracks are recorded at.

Thanks much,

Tom


----------



## fuzzybk

I would like to hear from past owners of the AVM 30 who now have an AVM 50v. Is there a difference in sound? Is the AVM 50v better than the AVM 30? I seem to remember Bob saying his D2v sounded better than his D2.


----------



## htaudio

Hey bob how do you get to the software beta? I only see 2.07 on the web site thanks John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16957026
> 
> 
> Can I get a little help from a D2v/OPPO bdp-83 owner, please.
> 
> 
> I just received my 'blue filter' glasses from Oppo that go with the S&M bluray video calibration that came with the 83. Along with the glasses I was pleasantly surprised to find an AIX audio calibration disc/ HD music sampler.
> 
> The insert states that the various calibration tracks are recorded at 96kHz for the highest sampling rate, but it doesn't list what the music tracks are recorded at. I would assume its probably only 96kHz (only! do you see how spoiled I've become), but I would be interested to know if if they are recorded at 192kHz. Since I have the D2 , not the 'v', I would like to see what it would do to a 192kHz source. I beleive its been reported to accept only a 96kHz signal, but I'd like to see for myself. And since I'm too cheap to spend $30 for a 2L disc to find out, could someone who has received the AIX disc from Oppo please check and see what rate the music tracks are recorded at.
> 
> Thanks much,
> 
> Tom



The D2 accepts only up to 5.1 channel 96KHz. The D2v accepts up to 7.1 channel 192KHz.


There are a few audio discs out there which have 192KHz audio -- generally derived from some form of exotic master. The 2L discs are interesting examples.


The audio on the AIX Blu-Ray calibration disc is 7.1 24-bit 96KHz. The music samples are presented as TrueHD. The calibration tests also include DTS-HD MA. There are also stereo tracks -- also 96KHz 24-bit. And some lossy DD5.1.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htaudio* /forum/post/16957835
> 
> 
> Hey bob how do you get to the software beta? I only see 2.07 on the web site thanks John



Anthem tech support maintains a password protected download page where that stuff gets released. It's no big secret, but they've asked that we not publish the access info here.


If you have a problem that might be fixed by the beta firmware, or just want to help test it, send an email to Anthem tech support (email address at the top of the first post of this thread) and they will likely respond with the access info after making sure you understand that "test" software is not finished yet, and my come with some unpleasant surprises.


HOWEVER, the current crop of beta firmware comes with some SCARY WARNINGS! So they may prefer you hold off for the moment if your interest is mainly curiosity.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16943691
> 
> *New "Test" Firmware Versions for Both Old & New Processors now on Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> As mentioned above, new "test" firmware versions have appeared this afternoon on Anthem's password protected download page.
> 
> 
> For the D2v and AVM 50v, the new "test" version is V2.07f. It is dated July 22. (The previous "test" version, V2.07e, was dated July 20.) My guess would be it has been sitting waiting for Nick to get back into the office to post it.
> 
> 
> It looks like the only change is in the HDMI code.
> 
> *BEWARE! THE *WARNING* STILL EXISTS ABOUT INSTALLING THIS VERSION! A FAILURE DURING THE INSTALL MAY REQUIRE RETURNING THE ANTHEM TO THE FACTORY FOR REPROGRAMMING!*
> 
> 
> The change notes since V2.06 read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ============================================
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, the "test" version for the original D2 and AVM 50 is V1.47f. It is dated July 28. (The prior "test" version, V1.47c, was dated July 7.)
> 
> 
> The change notes since V1.33 read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that there is no mention of the restriction to newer versions of the D2 and AVM 50 hardware (spotting EITHER a Red video board, OR a power supply WITHOUT the large Toroidal transformer through the vent holes of your unit means you have the newer hardware.)
> 
> 
> However, I note that the older V1.21 firmware is no longer included in the download, and folks have speculated that this older firmware was used to help folks recover if they mistakenly installed this D2 / AVM 50 firmware on the older version of the hardware for those units.
> 
> 
> I'll see if I can get a clarification from Nick.
> 
> --Bob



Any word whether this offers a fix for the hum/hiss issue or the lack of test tones for sub in the speaker calibration setup for the AVM50?


----------



## tngiloy

Bob,

Thanks for the information.

Tom


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I played Transporter 3, DTS-MA on my Oppo bitstreamed into my D2v. Firmware for the oppo is the last beta and 2.07f on the Anthem. I heard some static sounding pops, not loud, but noticeable. Almost nothing while playing it as PCM. Wondered if you have the disc and could try it. Will email Nick about this. Tried Transformers with TrueHD and didn't hear any of those sounds.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16963436
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I played Transporter 3, DTS-MA on my Oppo bitstreamed into my D2v. Firmware for the oppo is the last beta and 2.07f on the Anthem. I heard some static sounding pops, not loud, but noticeable. Almost nothing while playing it as PCM. Wondered if you have the disc and could try it. Will email Nick about this. Tried Transformers with TrueHD and didn't hear any of those sounds.
> 
> John



I do not have that disc, but I haven't spotted any problems with other DTS-HD MA discs. It is always possible that you just have a faulty disc. That happens way more often than people expect for Blu-Ray.


You should also get in touch with Oppo tech support.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I will take the disc back and exchange it as well as email oppo.

thanks,

John


----------



## uberanalyst

Installed version 1.47f test software on my D2, and it provided some slight improvement over the 1.47c software I successfully installed earlier. In particular, the noises/clicks that I used to hear when fast forwarding/scanning with my TivoHD are no longer there, just silence.


On the other hand, 1.47f (as with 1.47c) still produces low-frequency pops with some TV tuner channel changes from the TivoHD -- unlike the non-test D2 software (1.33?) I had been using for the past year.


1.47f (like 1.47c) is still rock solid in making HDMI handshakes always work properly. Have had no failures requiring D2 inputs to be changed to get the video back.


No new problems seem to have been introduced, so for me, 1.47f is a "keeper."

- Dave


----------



## wabbit636

just read through the last 10 pages to see what was new as I haven't checked in a while.


I was looking to find info on the D2 to Dv2 upgrade prices and when they start.


Can anyone please tell me the cost and when it starts??


thanks


----------



## pjpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16802788
> 
> 
> Which version of the Oppo firmware are you using? There is a "public beta" version available on their support page for the BDP-83. If you are not already using that I suggest you switch to that. It includes significant bug fixes.
> 
> 
> I have been beta testing the Oppo with my D2v, and although nothing is ever "simple" with HDMI, I think it highly likely that the dropouts you are experiencing when using HDMI Bitstream are due to firmware problems in the Oppo -- not in the D2v.
> 
> 
> But just to check, your D2v firmware version should be V2.07. Press Select once on the D2v remote to see the firmware version number in the display.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that HDMI is an "end to end" protocol. That means that audio problems from a source can actually be due to the HDMI connection from the D2v to your display. If you are using a long HDMI run to your display, that is even more likely. However, the fact that you are not experiencing the problem when using HDMI LPCM from the Oppo makes that less likely.
> 
> 
> So check your firmware versions, and report on the settings you are using in the Oppo and the D2v (e.g., are you using Frame Lock?) to see if that suggests anything.
> 
> 
> I can play "Hairspray" and "Sleeping Beauty" DTS-HD MA 7.1 using HDMI Bitstream from the Oppo into my D2v without audio dropouts.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16948574
> 
> 
> OK, that's it! I temporarily told the D2v I had a 7.1 speaker setup (even though nothing is connected to the Rear outputs) and it immediately recognized 7.1 DTS-HD HR 48KHz bitstream input from the Oppo for that "Dragon Encounter" bonus feature on "Sleeping Beauty" Blu-Ray.
> 
> 
> When I switched the D2v back to having only the actual 5.1 speakers, the input now showed as only 5.1 again.
> 
> 
> An email is on its way to Nick.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob, I read this quote and had an AHA moment. I went into my D2v speaker set up and told it I only had a 5.1 system, even though I had a 7.1 setup. Bitstreamed Hairspray DTS MA 7.1 from the Oppo and no dropouts. When I changed my speaker config to 7.1, I got a dropout within the first 5 minutes of playing the disc. Could you try the reverse (switch from 5.1 to 7.1) when you get a chance and see if you can duplicate the issue. I'm running the experimental firmware in the Oppo and the most recent official 2.07 in the Anthem. I'll email my findings to Anthem in the meantime.


Thanks


Philip


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/16965645
> 
> 
> just read through the last 10 pages to see what was new as I haven't checked in a while.
> 
> 
> I was looking to find info on the D2 to Dv2 upgrade prices and when they start.
> 
> 
> Can anyone please tell me the cost and when it starts??
> 
> 
> thanks



It's a trade-in program -- not an upgrade. It is supposed to be starting this month I believe. The pricing is pretty high. Some prices have been quoted here from folks who've already inquired, but I don't recall the details and they are not yet up on the Anthem web site.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjpoon* /forum/post/16966646
> 
> 
> Hi Bob, I read this quote and had an AHA moment. I went into my D2v speaker set up and told it I only had a 5.1 system, even though I had a 7.1 setup. Bitstreamed Hairspray DTS MA 7.1 from the Oppo and no dropouts. When I changed my speaker config to 7.1, I got a dropout within the first 5 minutes of playing the disc. Could you try the reverse (switch from 5.1 to 7.1) when you get a chance and see if you can duplicate the issue. I'm running the experimental firmware in the Oppo and the most recent official 2.07 in the Anthem. I'll email my findings to Anthem in the meantime.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Philip



I lied to my D2v and told it I had a 7.1 speaker configuration instead of my actual 5.1. I set the Oppo for explicit 1080p, HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4, 30-bit (Dithered), 1080p/24 AUTO, Secondary Audio OFF, and HDMI Bitstream output.


I played the first 5:30 of "Hairspray" Blu-Ray. Video input was 1080p/23.976. Audio input was 7.1 DTS-HD MA 48KHz. 7.1 speakers were active for output (albeit no rears were hooked up).


I had no audio dropouts.


I'm using the "public experimental" 0805 firmware for the Oppo and the "test" V2.07f firmware for the D2v.


---------------------------------------------------------


You should check to see what the D2v is showing as audio input when playing "Hairspray". There's a bug (just now fixed in the "test" V2.07f firmware) which can cause the D2v to see only 5.1 input instead of 7.1 when playing that disc. The workaround for your current firmware is to interrupt the audio stream (e.g., Pause/Play or Chapter Forward/Chapter Back) which will get the D2v seeing the correct 7.1 bitstream input. If the D2v was seeing the input incorrectly and you were using a 7.1 speaker config, that could be a problem combo.


It's also possible you have a marginal HDMI cable connection.

--Bob


----------



## htaudio

thanks Bob for the info. I just been having some problems with hand shacking with hdmi with pcm on my sat receiver it works find on doby digital but most of the time going from pcm in my menu guide I get no sound it's not until I click a doby digital channel then go out of the guide then change the channel on pcm that I get sound that's why I was looking for a software update that would fix this issue. thanks John


----------



## brusteraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/16965645
> 
> 
> just read through the last 10 pages to see what was new as I haven't checked in a while.
> 
> 
> I was looking to find info on the D2 to Dv2 upgrade prices and when they start.
> 
> 
> Can anyone please tell me the cost and when it starts??
> 
> 
> thanks



Yes it is an exchange 3899.00 if you already have Arc and 4299.00 if you don't. If you are interested get hold of Piero at Anthem and he will set up the exhange for you. It is pricey but worth it to me for the new hardware, I started out with a D1 then upgraded to D1-HD/D2


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brusteraider* /forum/post/16967454
> 
> 
> Yes it is an exchange 3899.00 if you already have Arc and 4299.00 if you don't. If you are interested get hold of Piero at Anthem and he will set up the exhange for you. It is pricey but worth it to me for the new hardware, I started out with a D1 then upgraded to D1-HD/D2



Hey brusteraider, do you know if those figures are official and when the exchange program starts. Are they accepting returns as of now?


----------



## jayray

Tried two more 7.1 DTS-MA discs and the one from Lionsgate also had some static, pop sounds coming out during bitstreaming from my oppo into my D2v. both units using the latest beta firmware. This is the second Lionsgate to do this which did not happen using the ps3. The non Lionsgate disc did not have the popping. Have emailed oppo and Nick. BTW, the two discs are Transporter 3 and Punisher 2. Golden Compass did not exhibit this sound.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16967750
> 
> 
> Tried two more 7.1 DTS-MA discs and the one from Lionsgate also had some static, pop sounds coming out during bitstreaming from my oppo into my D2v. both units using the latest beta firmware. This is the second Lionsgate to do this which did not happen using the ps3. The non Lionsgate disc did not have the popping. Have emailed oppo and Nick. BTW, the two discs are Transporter 3 and Punisher 2. Golden Compass did not exhibit this sound.
> 
> John



Of course you can't bitstream these tracks from the PS3.

--Bob


----------



## pjpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16966834
> 
> 
> I lied to my D2v and told it I had a 7.1 speaker configuration instead of my actual 5.1. I set the Oppo for explicit 1080p, HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4, 30-bit (Dithered), 1080p/24 AUTO, Secondary Audio OFF, and HDMI Bitstream output.
> 
> 
> I played the first 5:30 of "Hairspray" Blu-Ray. Video input was 1080p/23.976. Audio input was 7.1 DTS-HD MA 48KHz. 7.1 speakers were active for output (albeit no rears were hooked up).
> 
> 
> I had no audio dropouts.
> 
> 
> I'm using the "public experimental" 0805 firmware for the Oppo and the "test" V2.07f firmware for the D2v.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> You should check to see what the D2v is showing as audio input when playing "Hairspray". There's a bug (just now fixed in the "test" V2.07f firmware) which can cause the D2v to see only 5.1 input instead of 7.1 when playing that disc. The workaround for your current firmware is to interrupt the audio stream (e.g., Pause/Play or Chapter Forward/Chapter Back) which will get the D2v seeing the correct 7.1 bitstream input. If the D2v was seeing the input incorrectly and you were using a 7.1 speaker config, that could be a problem combo.
> 
> 
> It's also possible you have a marginal HDMI cable connection.
> 
> --Bob



My D2v sees the correct input from the Oppo (7.1) when in a 7.1 speaker configuration. I did experience the 5.1 input when I had the 5.1 speaker configuration and accidentally stumbled on the fix you mention. Since I am not using the 2.07f firmware in my Anthem, I'm going to take the positive view that Anthem has fixed my problem with the new firmware since you could not duplicate the problem.


Thanks for taking the time to check.


Philip


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16967944
> 
> 
> Of course you can't bitstream these tracks from the PS3.
> 
> --Bob



that is true














Seems bitstreaming is the problem. pcm for the time being.

John


----------



## brusteraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16967675
> 
> 
> Hey brusteraider, do you know if those figures are official and when the exchange program starts. Are they accepting returns as of now?



The word I got Piero was that he will know by Tuesday if backorders have sufficiently been filled so the exchange can commence. I will post when I here from him. Yes those prices are from Piero so I assume they are official.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

If your numbers are accurate that is good news. This is 800 dollars US below the estimate he was sharing a few months ago.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brusteraider* /forum/post/16968591
> 
> 
> The word I got Piero was that he will know by Tuesday if backorders have sufficiently been filled so the exchange can commence. I will post when I here from him. Yes those prices are from Piero so I assume they are official.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/16968854
> 
> 
> If your numbers are accurate that is good news. This is 800 dollars US below the estimate he was sharing a few months ago.



but surely it makes more economic sense to buy a new D2v and keep or sell the D2? Going the sell route you can only make money, I don't understand why anyone would 'trade'!!


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/16969518
> 
> 
> but surely it makes more economic sense to buy a new D2v and keep or sell the D2? Going the sell route you can only make money, I don't understand why anyone would 'trade'!!



Because I have a 50% off the exchange price coupon. So for me, 3899.00 becomes 1950.00.


I'll have about 5200.00 in the D2v! There's no way I can get a new through my dealer at that price!


----------



## jayray

Bob,

with the new oppo firmware, wondered which setting I should use from the video menu. ie, my display does not support deep colour so I have been using 30 bit. With the new firmware there is now 30 bit (dithering). Not sure which to use.

thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16969782
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> with the new oppo firmware, wondered which setting I should use from the video menu. ie, my display does not support deep colour so I have been using 30 bit. With the new firmware there is now 30 bit (dithering). Not sure which to use.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



There appears to be a bug in the D2v video firmware that affects output for my type of display (1360x768p Studio RGB). From the tests I've done, it may NOT affect displays that take standard resolutions. In my case 30 bit (Dithered) or OFF (Dithered) both produce better video on my display for Blu-Ray than any of the non-dithered choices (36, 30, or OFF=24). I'm seeing the same problem playing Blu-Ray on the PS3 which offers no choice but to use 36-bit when connected to the D2v.


A related problem is that I have to use either YCbCr 4:4:4 or RGB Video Level from the Oppo. YCbCr 4:2:2 has video level problems. Again, this appears to be related to the particular processing the D2v is doing for my display.


It should not be necessary to use anything other than 36 bit for input into the D2v regardless of whether or not your display accepts that. The Oppo does its internal stuff as 36 bit, and reduces from that only at the last stage prior to output. The D2v should be able to do that reduction just as well.


For now, I suggest you compare 36 bit against 30 bit (Dithered). If you see smoother color and gray scale ramps with 30 bit (Dithered) then stick with that and email Anthem with how you tested it and what you found. If 36 bit looks just as good then stick with 36 bit -- you are not being hit by the bug.


Once Anthem fixes their issue, reset the Oppo back to 36 bit.


ETA: Note that the error is pretty subtle. It is easy to miss it unless you are looking at a torture test scene for color ramps. For example look at the background, foggy, night sky in the rat-in-the-jar scene by the river in "Ratatouille" Blu-Ray. If things are working correctly, there should be absolutely no contours in that sky background (although there WILL be some "glow" contours around lamps). Of course your video setup also has to be very close to perfect for this to work.

--Bo


----------



## jayray

Thanks Bob,

I will give it a shot. BTW, my display was calibrated by Michael Chen, one of the best. My display is a BenQ W5000 on a 106" screen. I should see it if it is there.

John


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I tried both 36 bit and 30 dithered. Could see no difference.

John


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/16969592
> 
> 
> Because I have a 50% off the exchange price coupon. So for me, 3899.00 becomes 1950.00.
> 
> 
> I'll have about 5200.00 in the D2v! There's no way I can get a new through my dealer at that price!



Thats a great deal for you, absolutely!


However, for those without the coupon and with used D2s on audiogon for around $3.5k to $4k youd have to be mad to take Anthem up on their offer.


For those that are still interested, please email me and I will tell you about a fantastic real estate opportunity in Miami Beach that you just cant pass up.......


----------



## jayray

Got another audio drop out, in Ratatouile,when the old lady shoots down the chandellier, I get a 1 sec. dropout using both bitstream and PCM. Never had this with the ps3.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16971121
> 
> 
> Got another audio drop out, in Ratatouile,when the old lady shoots down the chandellier, I get a 1 sec. dropout using both bitstream and PCM. Never had this with the ps3.
> 
> John



Audio dropouts, whether LPCM or Bitstream, are almost always a problem in the player. If you have a repeatable case, let Oppo know.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16971002
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I tried both 36 bit and 30 dithered. Could see no difference.
> 
> John



As I recall, you have a 1080p YCbCr display, correct?


Anyway if you see no problems using 36 bit from the Oppo, then that's what you should use.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16971277
> 
> 
> As I recall, you have a 1080p YCbCr display, correct?
> 
> 
> Anyway if you see no problems using 36 bit from the Oppo, then that's what you should use.
> 
> --Bob



Yes I am using YCbCr 4:4:4

John


----------



## NOCAL

Sorry to ask what I am sure is a well covered subject, but wading thru 23,000 replies is daunting.


This is for people who have ACTUALLY listened to both the 50v and D2v.


What is the difference in audio that you have perceived? Is is distinctly different, and HOW? Thanks.


Eric.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Hi all. I know that there has always been an issue with apple tv when connect through the D2.


However, I was wondering if there is also an issue when the iphone is connected to the d2 via a standard audio video dock?


I recently purchased an Iphone dock. basically you plug the iphone into the dock and then the dock is connected to the d2 via standard left and right rca plugs and component cables. When attached in this way... the audio comes through fine but the video does not... just a blank screen and a "no video input" message when checking info. I have set the d2 source to component in.


I know the Iphone needs to have "TV OUT" set to "on" to output video.


Any thought on this?


-Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/16975809
> 
> 
> Hi all. I know that there has always been an issue with apple tv when connect through the D2.
> 
> 
> However, I was wondering if there is also an issue when the iphone is connected to the d2 via a standard audio video dock?
> 
> 
> I recently purchased an Iphone dock. basically you plug the iphone into the dock and then the dock is connected to the d2 via standard left and right rca plugs and component cables. When attached in this way... the audio comes through fine but the video does not... just a blank screen and a "no video input" message when checking info. I have set the d2 source to component in.
> 
> 
> I know the Iphone needs to have "TV OUT" set to "on" to output video.
> 
> 
> Any thought on this?
> 
> 
> -Bob



In Setup > Source Setup, specify Component video on two separate lines. Specify it on the Scaler Input line and also on the Component In line. Double check that you are connected to the Component input jacks you think you are using.


Try hooking the Component cables directly to a display to verify that you have the iPhone's video output set up correctly.

--Bob


----------



## aramb

...Still waiting for my AVM50v to come in. It's been 5 long weeks! I hope its not obsolete by the time I get it!


Aram


----------



## htaudio

Hi Bob was wondering if you could tell me the easy way get the graphs to copy I am using windows vista ultimate I can't seem to figure out how to copy my files. any help would be appreciative, thanks John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I use XP, but Vista is likely similar. Look in Windows Help for the key combo to Screen Capture Active Window. It will be something like Alt PrintScreen.


That captures to the clipboard. What I do is paste into Windows Paint and then Save As to a file -- using JPEG file format to keep the file small.


You can't get all the charts visible at once. So scroll to the top of the ARC charts window and capture that. Then scroll to the bottom to get the rest. That's 2 images. Then switch between Movie and Music charts in the ARC view menu and capture them. Then bring up the Targets window and capture that.


5 image files in all which you can attach to a post here using the Manage Attachments section below the post type in area.

--Bob


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/16977331
> 
> 
> ...Still waiting for my AVM50v to come in. It's been 5 long weeks! I hope its not obsolete by the time I get it!
> 
> 
> Aram



Are these hard to get? I plan on ordering one from one of my local dealers this week. Not that the wait would kill me.


The "obsolete" line is cute. I see it in all the prepro threads from people either waiting for promised features to show up or for the prepro to finally hit the market.







I think we have a few years before we see game changer features like HD audio and HDMI come along again. It will take me that long to figure out all the features in the AVM.










Good luck, I hope we both see our AVM's soon.


----------



## AbMagFab

So.... when is this coming? These have been out a while now, with an advertised feature that isn't available. Calls of "false advertising" are going to be coming soon!


Although I'm guessing most of us will hate the likely dynamic range compression, no matter what Dolby marketing material claims...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've no idea what the delay is. I was guessing it would be out in June.


Last I heard (March as I recall) it was working fine and they were just polishing up the user interface so that users would be less likely to screw up the settings and make it sound bad.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For those of you who've been tempted to take the gamble and install "Test" V2.07f in your D2v or AVM 50v, but have been, quite rightly, scared off by the **SCARY WARNING!** that a failure of the install may leave you with no recourse but to send the unit back to the Anthem factory in Canada for corrective re-programming, here's some stuff to consider:


Apparently the problem is that if the install fails while the video board is being programmed it may leave the board in a state where it will not reset properly when you retry the install (of any version). The big risk factor here is that your Serial connection to the Anthem may not be reliable, and that it may glitch at just the wrong time -- while the video board is being programmed. The current Flash Eraser recovery utility will not fix this.


Presumably Anthem will need to address this video board resetting issue before this firmware becomes "official". Perhaps by the addition of another utility like Flash Eraser.


However, one thing you can do to judge the gamble is to exercise your Serial connection by re-installing "official" V2.07 firmware on top of itself several times.


----------------------------------


Make sure you have the latest drivers for using your particular Serial port on your particular Windows computer. If you want to use a USB/Serial adapter, the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter is definitely the one to use (with the sole exception being folks using VMWare Fusion 2 on Mac hardware who report a Belkin adapter works better). Depending on how long the Keyspan you purchase has been sitting on the peg, the drivers included in the package with it may not be the latest drivers.


Each time you do the re-install of "official" V2.07, do it just like you were doing it the first time. Remove wall power from everything in your system except for the Anthem and your Windows computer (to make sure you have no powered HDMI connections), and do a new Reset Factory Defaults prior to each re-install.


I also suggest you reboot your Windows computer prior to each re-install to have things in as close to an identical state as possible.


And make sure you have NO PROGRAMS running on your Windows PC. For example, if Windows Messenger starts up at boot and runs in the background, find its icon in the Task Bar and Exit out of it.


------------------------------------------


If you can do several re-installs (say 2 or 3) of "official" V2.07 without a hiccup, then I think the odds are pretty good you can install "Test" V2.07f without problems.


Understand that this is still a gamble, but the odds are much more in your favor if you already know your current Serial connection setup works reliably for re-installing "official" V2.07.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I got a new Transporter 3 disc and it still causes a crackling, popping sound while playing 7.1 bitstreamed to my D2v. Oppo asked me to change my anthem to 5.1 and see if that made diff and it did, no crackling sound. When I hit select on my remote and it shows 7.1 coming in and 5.1 going out, as it should. Nick is aware of this and has sent it to the software engineers. As for my dropout in Ratatouille, oppo is looking into that. BTW, this dropout occurs whether pcm or bitstreaming.

John


----------



## htaudio

Hi Bob here my room is there anything that needs improvements? thanks John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htaudio* /forum/post/16983339
> 
> 
> Hi Bob here my room is there anything that needs improvements? thanks John



Three things come to mind. Your basic volume level is about 15dB higher than I would normally recommend.


Go through the procedure where you set all the volume trims to 0, then adjust Test Level to get 75dB SPL from the LF speaker, and finally adjust the volume knob in your sub to generate 75dB SPL given that same Test Level and still a 0dB volume trim in the Anthem.


ARC will use the Setup > Speaker Calibration > Test Level (or Noise Level in the older units) to set the volume of its test sweep tones, and done this way you've also pre-configured your sub's volume to be roughly in balance already when using that Test Level.


Ballpark adjustments are fine for both of these as ARC will do all the fine adjustment.


Usually a basic volume level set up this high in the ARC solution means it is having trouble finding a combo of settings to balance all the speakers -- and usually it is the sub that is the culprit.


This change will require re-Measurement.


-------------------------


Next your Room Gain is perhaps a little low. You didn't post your Targets window so I'm not sure what ARC discovered there. If you are below 2dB you might want to try raising up that Target value (leave the Force box checked) and see if you like the sound of that better.


This change can be done just be re-Calculating and re-Uploading. No need to re-Measure.


-------------------------


Finally your surrounds are a little weak in bass -- causing ARC to set the crossover kind of high for them. This is not that big a deal but if you have an adjustment in them to produce more bass (e.g., a bass port that can be opened) that would get a better match to your front speakers.


Otherwise I think you are in good shape.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/16982726
> 
> 
> I got a new Transporter 3 disc and it still causes a crackling, popping sound while playing 7.1 bitstreamed to my D2v. Oppo asked me to change my anthem to 5.1 and see if that made diff and it did, no crackling sound. When I hit select on my remote and it shows 7.1 coming in and 5.1 going out, as it should. Nick is aware of this and has sent it to the software engineers. As for my dropout in Ratatouille, oppo is looking into that. BTW, this dropout occurs whether pcm or bitstreaming.
> 
> John



Are you still on V2.07 or have you moved to V2.07f?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I'm using 2.07f and the oppo has the last experimental version. Tested the Ratatouille today and no audio dropout. I repeated this several times. Go figure. I also emptied the persistent storage on the oppo just in case.

John


----------



## htaudio

Hi Bob thanks for your feed back on this I been having trouble getting good bass out of my sub I have a velodyne optimum 12 with eq which turn to direct to bypass the eq I had to change the phase to 180 to get decent bass coming out of sub in the d2v.here's my targets you ask for thanks John.


----------



## gdc

Does it look like the impending release of firmware for D2s will NOT support the oldest D2s?


I have a green video board AND a humongous toroidal transformer. My D2 was made sometime between April - June of 2006. I think that qualifies for the senior citizen discount










The last firmware for original D2 was June 2008. I'm hoping I don't have the final firmware...


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/16982329
> 
> 
> For those of you who've been tempted to take the gamble and install "Test" V2.07f in your D2v or AVM 50v, but have been, quite rightly, scared off by the **SCARY WARNING!** that a failure of the install may leave you with no recourse but to send the unit back to the Anthem factory in Canada for corrective re-programming, here's some stuff to consider:
> 
> 
> Apparently the problem is that if the install fails while the video board is being programmed it may leave the board in a state where it will not reset properly when you retry the install (of any version). The big risk factor here is that your Serial connection to the Anthem may not be reliable, and that it may glitch at just the wrong time -- while the video board is being programmed. The current Flash Eraser recovery utility will not fix this.
> 
> 
> Presumably Anthem will need to address this video board resetting issue before this firmware becomes "official". Perhaps by the addition of another utility like Flash Eraser.
> 
> 
> However, one thing you can do to judge the gamble is to exercise your Serial connection by re-installing "official" V2.07 firmware on top of itself several times.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Does Anthem have a reason they haven't added a USB port so the serial interface for updates is not necessary ?


----------



## /dev/null

Bob-

Is there a website, post(somewhere in this thread?), or white paper that describes the ARC Target Settings in more detail? I have lots of questions, and I don't want to fill this thread up if I don't have to. Some of the ponderings include: Is the resonance filter pre or post room eq? Does changing the filter after uploading settings change the settings? What are the details of the advanced page.. i.e. Room gain, and the individual speaker targets?


Thanks....


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Peter,

A lot of tutorial and reference material will be found in the collection of post links in the first post of this thread. See the ARC related post links.


You'll discover for example that Room Resonance Filter is simply ignored for any Source with Room EQ ON.


Check through those posts and the ARC setup chapter of the Manual. If you still have questions, feel free to post them here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/16985102
> 
> 
> Does Anthem have a reason they haven't added a USB port so the serial interface for updates is not necessary ?



Serial is still required for custom controller installations.


Beyond that it just takes engineering time.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/16984473
> 
> 
> Does it look like the impending release of firmware for D2s will NOT support the oldest D2s?
> 
> 
> I have a green video board AND a humongous toroidal transformer. My D2 was made sometime between April - June of 2006. I think that qualifies for the senior citizen discount
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last firmware for original D2 was June 2008. I'm hoping I don't have the final firmware...



We don't yet know one way or the other. My guess is that in porting the new HDMI code to the original units they just wanted to simplify testing to start by limiting it to the latter hardware configuration.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htaudio* /forum/post/16983825
> 
> 
> Hi Bob thanks for your feed back on this I been having trouble getting good bass out of my sub I have a velodyne optimum 12 with eq which turn to direct to bypass the eq I had to change the phase to 180 to get decent bass coming out of sub in the d2v.here's my targets you ask for thanks John.



It is important to get Phase correct for your sub. See the post links in the first post of this thread for help.


Phase aside, your sub looks OK to me.


Only your rear has a highish crossover. The sides look ok. So no real problem.


Try forcing 2 or 2.5 dB of Room Gain and see if you like the sound better. Your room Measures a little flat at 1.6.

--Bob


----------



## Dubauskas

Hello... this is a huge thread and I can't seem to find the answer.


I have a line on a D2 for about 4k. What is the difference between the D2 and D2v?


Is the D2 upgradable to D2V... if so for how much?


Thanks in Advance!!! - Dave


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dubauskas* /forum/post/16985648
> 
> 
> Hello... this is a huge thread and I can't seem to find the answer.
> 
> 
> I have a line on a D2 for about 4k. What is the difference between the D2 and D2v?
> 
> 
> Is the D2 upgradable to D2V... if so for how much?
> 
> 
> Thanks in Advance!!! - Dave



First question is covered in the first post.


Second question answer: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post16967454


----------



## duckwood

Hi,


This may have been covered before but I haven't seen it. Can you have the anthem display the video from one HDMI input and play the audio from another? This would be for a HTPC where to get 7.1 linear PCM.


Cheers,

Abe


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/16990132
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> This may have been covered before but I haven't seen it. Can you have the anthem display the video from one HDMI input and play the audio from another? This would be for a HTPC where to get 7.1 linear PCM.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Abe



Sorry, no. HDMI audio is always embedded in an HDMI video signal -- even if that's just a black screen. And so the HDMI video has to be "processed" to extract the audio from it. Since there is only one HDMI input video processing path in the Anthem, you can't mix two HDMI inputs.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

I have a D2 V1.33 with ARC V2.2. When I do my measurements, my room gain is 0. So, I decided to play a little trick on ARC. I did my normal measurements and moved the mic around when prompted by ARC. After my normal measurement was over, I did another measurement just from the main listening position only. So, this time, I didn't move the mic when prompted by ARC. I just left it at the main listening position. At the end, ARC came up with a room gain of 2.046981. So, I decided to use that for my room gain for movie and music. So, I was wondering what's your opinion about that little trick to get room gain from ARC?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16990429
> 
> 
> I have a D2 V1.33 with ARC V2.2. When I do my measurements, my room gain is 0. So, I decided to play a little trick on ARC. I did my normal measurements and moved the mic around when prompted by ARC. After my normal measurement was over, I did another measurement just from the main listening position only. So, this time, I didn't move the mic when prompted by ARC. I just left it at the main listening position. At the end, ARC came up with a room gain of 2.046981. So, I decided to use that for my room gain for movie and music. So, I was wondering what's your opinion about that little trick to get room gain from ARC?



Bumping the room gain up to 2.whatever in the advanced arc set-up is fine,even rcommended. But I would suggest that you use the arc results that were calculated when moving the mic to the five different positions, as Anthem suggests. Just change the room gain in the settings up to 2.0xx.

Tom


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/16990585
> 
> 
> Bumping the room gain up to 2.whatever in the advanced arc set-up is fine,even rcommended. But I would suggest that you use the arc results that were calculated when moving the mic to the five different positions, as Anthem suggests. Just change the room gain in the settings up to 2.0xx.
> 
> Tom



ARC's room gain, for me after the normal measurements, is 0. That's why I just did the final measurements at the main listening position, without moving the mic, to determine what it would be just at the main listening position.


----------



## duckwood

ok thanks Bob!


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16990908
> 
> 
> ARC's room gain, for me after the normal measurements, is 0. That's why I just did the final measurements at the main listening position, without moving the mic, to determine what it would be just at the main listening position.



I think what Tom was suggesting to you was to manually set the Room Gain in the software - overriding the software's determination of 0. Then upload to the D2/AVM50.


The way you are doing it, you are 'falsifying' a measurement (instead of overriding). So you are giving the ARC software 'garbage' data. With the override, the adjustment you make is an explicit command to the software.


I'm sure the difference in the two methods is audible...


There may be some reason ARC is setting Room Gain at 0. I would look at other posts where ARC determined a gain of 0 and see what kinds of things might cause that.


I bet Bob will have a more specific suggestion...


----------



## htaudio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htaudio* /forum/post/16983825
> 
> 
> Hi Bob thanks for your feed back on this I been having trouble getting good bass out of my sub I have a velodyne optimum 12 with eq which turn to direct to bypass the eq I had to change the phase to 180 to get decent bass coming out of sub in the d2v.here's my targets you ask for thanks John.



HI Bob here my new results since I brought the db down but now my right surround it seems that arc could not correct it at 200, is there anything can do to get it there? any help on improvments would be appreciative, hey thanks for the insight and help thus far. John bob I was wondering why arc put my front at 60hz? when all 3 speakers will go down to 38hz and my rears are suppose to go down to 80hz and they are set at different hz.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/16992008
> 
> 
> I think what Tom was suggesting to you was to manually set the Room Gain in the software - overriding the software's determination of 0. Then upload to the D2/AVM50.
> 
> 
> The way you are doing it, you are 'falsifying' a measurement (instead of overriding). So you are giving the ARC software 'garbage' data. With the override, the adjustment you make is an explicit command to the software.
> 
> 
> I'm sure the difference in the two methods is audible...
> 
> 
> There may be some reason ARC is setting Room Gain at 0. I would look at other posts where ARC determined a gain of 0 and see what kinds of things might cause that.
> 
> 
> I bet Bob will have a more specific suggestion...



Let me try to clarify exactly what I did. Ok. First of all, I did 2 measurements. The first measurement I moved the mic to the 5 different listening positions. At the end of that measurement, my room gain was 0. So, I saved that measurement on my PC. My second measurement which was a throw away measurement, I just left the mic at the main listening position. So, after taking the measurement for the main listening position and prompted to move the mic to the second listening position, I just left the mic at the main listening position instead of moving the mic to the second listening position. I continued to leave the mic at the main listening position for the 5 measurements. At the end of my second throw away measurement, I brought up the Target Window and saw what the room gain was. Then, I brought up my first set of measurements, and I put in the room gain from the second measurement which was my room gain only measurement. Then I uploaded my first set of measurements with the room gain from the second measurement to my D2. So, instead of just putting in 2.0 or 2.5 like I normally do, I just put in the room gain from the second measurement that ARC came up with.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16996528
> 
> 
> Let me try to clarify exactly what I did. Ok. First of all, I did 2 measurements. The first measurement I moved the mic to the 5 different listening positions. At the end of that measurement, my room gain was 0. So, I saved that measurement on my PC. My second measurement which was a throw away measurement, I just left the mic at the main listening position. So, after taking the measurement for the main listening position and prompted to move the mic to the second listening position, I just left the mic at the main listening position instead of moving the mic to the second listening position. I continued to leave the mic at the main listening position for the 5 measurements. At the end of my second throw away measurement, I brought up the Target Window and saw what the room gain was. Then, I brought up my first set of measurements, and I put in the room gain from the second measurement which was my room gain only measurement. Then I uploaded my first set of measurements with the room gain from the second measurement to my D2. So, instead of just putting in 2.0 or 2.5 like I normally do, I just put in the room gain from the second measurement that ARC came up with.



Two thoughts. First you should try to understand WHY ARC is coming up with zero Room Gain in your normal Measurements. Often this can be seen in the charts. Look for a dip near or just above the crossover frequencies. Typically this is an uncorrected Room Cancelation response, but sometimes it reflects poor internal crossover settings in the main speakers.


Fixing a problem like that is always the preferred solution.


----------------------


The fact that you got more Room Gain at mic position #1 than at all the positions also suggests a room response problem.


----------------------


Second, the ear is probably not that sensitive to fine differences in choice of Room gain. If you pick a Room Gain to Force of, say, 2.5dB, that's probably just as good as finding a more "correct" number near that point.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htaudio* /forum/post/16995582
> 
> 
> HI Bob here my new results since I brought the db down but now my right surround it seems that arc could not correct it at 200, is there anything can do to get it there? any help on improvments would be appreciative, hey thanks for the insight and help thus far. John bob I was wondering why arc put my front at 60hz? when all 3 speakers will go down to 38hz and my rears are suppose to go down to 80hz and they are set at different hz.



It looks like you've got a Room Cancellation Null near 200Hz. It is showing up on almost all the speaker charts. It's just that the Measurement for RS show it to a few dB larger extreme than ARC can correct. You'll only need to find modest improvement to get this into the 6dB range ARC will correct. You can likely achieve this by small repositioning of RS. Or apply some bass traps (room treatments) to help tame the 200Hz Null for all speakers.


Now the residual error in RS is not all that large. So you could also be forgiven for just declaring victory with what you have now.


-------------------------------------


ARC needs to use the Sub at somewhat higher frequencies for your surrounds. Since the solution uses the Sub up there anyway, it rolls off your front speakers a bit higher and lets the Sub take over for them as well.


Keep in mind that the crossovers are not a hard cutoff. There's about an octave of roll off. So a 60 Hz crossover still passes audio down to near 30Hz.


--------------------------------------


If you have some flexibility in positioning RS, that would be the first thing to try. Moving it closer or further from the wall behind it would be your first try. Even inches matter at these frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## htaudio

Thanks Bob for your advice and time to look at it John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/16996528
> 
> 
> Let me try to clarify exactly what I did. Ok. First of all, I did 2 measurements. The first measurement I moved the mic to the 5 different listening positions. At the end of that measurement, my room gain was 0. So, I saved that measurement on my PC. My second measurement which was a throw away measurement, I just left the mic at the main listening position. So, after taking the measurement for the main listening position and prompted to move the mic to the second listening position, I just left the mic at the main listening position instead of moving the mic to the second listening position. I continued to leave the mic at the main listening position for the 5 measurements. At the end of my second throw away measurement, I brought up the Target Window and saw what the room gain was. Then, I brought up my first set of measurements, and I put in the room gain from the second measurement which was my room gain only measurement. Then I uploaded my first set of measurements with the room gain from the second measurement to my D2. So, instead of just putting in 2.0 or 2.5 like I normally do, I just put in the room gain from the second measurement that ARC came up with.



Ninja,

I was just trying to make sure you were using the ARC calculations you got when you did the 5 different mic positions, and the manually changing the room gain up to 2.xx.

Arc is a great tool, but before using ARC one needs to do all the basic speaker set-up tweaking- setting speaker levels to @75db with a RS spl meter, placing the speakers in the proper positions in relation to the listening position, the environment (walls, corners,etc.), and each other.

After the speaker set-up basics are done, then you run ARC.

ARC will then show where you may still have problems that need to be adressed.

Please post your ARC graphs here so that Bob and others can make suggestions on where to make changes. Bob helped me figure out where my problems were, and with the help of some bass traps and speaker placement I was able to correct my 'dip' from my front speakers enough so that ARC could correct the rest. It wasn't easy, but all the tweaking was worth it once it was finally done.

Tom


----------



## abc999

Hi Bob,


Just a quick question, I have a great SACD/CD Esoteric player for audio and a PS3 for blu-ray. What would be the reason(s) why I should get the Oppo BD player?


----------



## dweltman

I have an Esoteric DV-50S. I play a lot of SACDs and mostly use the Oppo because it allows me to use the ARC digital room correction software without converting back from 5.1 channel analogue to digital. My PS3 now sits in the basement (anyone want to buy it) not that the Oppo picture is better on BluRay, but it is quieter and more user friendly as far as remote control operation is concerned. DVD performance will be better as well.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17003909
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Just a quick question, I have a great SACD/CD Esoteric player for audio and a PS3 for blu-ray. What would be the reason(s) why I should get the Oppo BD player?



The main reason for replacing the PS3 would be improved SD-DVD playback.


I don't know enough about the Esoteric to comment, but keep in mind the Oppo also provides DVD-A playback, as well as media formats you might feed into the player from a USB drive.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob,

I received a new d2v from Anthem this morning but with this one I dont get sound not even to the sub and the picture is all smeared. Any suggestions?

I appreciate it.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17003971
> 
> 
> I have an Esoteric DV-50S. I play a lot of SACDs and mostly use the Oppo because it allows me to use the ARC digital room correction software without converting back from 5.1 channel analogue to digital. My PS3 now sits in the basement (anyone want to buy it) not that the Oppo picture is better on BluRay, but it is quieter and more user friendly as far as remote control operation is concerned. DVD performance will be better as well.



I see, just the answers that I need. Thanks


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17004381
> 
> 
> The main reason for replacing the PS3 would be improved SD-DVD playback.
> 
> 
> I don't know enough about the Esoteric to comment, but keep in mind the Oppo also provides DVD-A playback, as well as media formats you might feed into the player from a USB drive.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, off the buy a new Oppo.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17006067
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> I received a new d2v from Anthem this morning but with this one I dont get sound not even to the sub and the picture is all smeared. Any suggestions?
> 
> I appreciate it.



Using the Front Panel, go into Setup and Reload Factory Defaults. Then go into Setup > Video Output and manually reenter the settings for your display. Remember that those settings don't take effect until you exit the Video Output menu.


Concentrate on getting the Setup menu, and the calibration charts in Video Source Adjust > Patterns to show properly on your display.


Also double check your connections and your settings in your display itself.


If that works, then move on to audio. It is probably just a settings mistake.


If you can't get the internally generated video to display this way, then there's nothing for it but to call Anthem again.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17006368
> 
> 
> Using the Front Panel, go into Setup and Reload Factory Defaults. Then go into Setup > Video Output and manually reenter the settings for your display. Remember that those settings don't take effect until you exit the Video Output menu.
> 
> 
> Concentrate on getting the Setup menu, and the calibration charts in Video Source Adjust > Patterns to show properly on your display.
> 
> 
> Also double check your connections and your settings in your display itself.
> 
> 
> If that works, then move on to audio. It is probably just a settings mistake.
> 
> 
> If you can't get the internally generated video to display this way, then there's nothing for it but to call Anthem again.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,

I reloaded my saved settings and also manually adjusted the audio video but no luck.

I dont know if Anthem ever checks the units before shipping them. Seems like they have a lot of quality control problems. I already emailed Piero about this and if I couldnt get it fixed this weekend by myself then it will go back to Anthem. It is so frustrating and time consuming to wait a long time and I mean a long time to get one then set up everything then getting problems and trying to fix them then will go back to Anthem and wait again a long time. Besides all of this, your system will down as well. Woooow. I need to take a nap.


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17006451
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> It is so frustrating and time consuming to wait a long time and I mean a long time to get one then set up everything then getting problems and trying to fix them then will go back to Anthem and wait again a long time.



I hear you usxplong. I'm at 3+ weeks waiting for a replacement for my original defective D2v which took about 11 weeks to get in the first place. Luckily, my D2v still functions properly as long as you don't need to access the setup menu which will only work using the front panel (not a fun way to set the unit up). On the bright side, Anthem is replacing the unit and letting me keep this defective one until the new one arrives (which I have no idea how long that will be).


----------



## erikno

Hello,


As a new member of AVS forum and a new owner of a d2v (Norway's first!) I've been following this thread with great interest. Regarding the service from Anthem and the Norwegian Importer, it has been great. I also have had problems with my d2v, which showed to be a faulty HDMI board. I got no pictures, only audio, and the signal into either tv (sharp) or projector (avelio) was showing that the input was 720p, even if the Anthem was set to 1080p. Anyway, this is fixed by replacing the HDMI board quite rapidly after returning from my holiday.


However, there seem to be a little glitch sometimes (this also happended on the old board) regardig the audio. When I start up the machinery to watch tv (d2v, tv box and tv), sometimes there is no sound. The solution is to turn off the d2v and turn it on again. It seems to be the HDMI handshake (i'm guessing), but does anyone knows if this is a common issue and whether Anthem is working on a fix?


(For me, this is not a big problem, but for my wife in the morning, turning on the tv for our little son, things need to work NOW...)


erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You don't mention which firmware version you have, but this has been a problem in recent versions.


It appears to be fixed in the "test" version V2.07f that I'm using now.


For now, I think you'll find a faster workaround is to simply switch the D2v to any other input and back. The other source doesn't even need to be powered on.


I don't know how soon a new version with this fix will become available for general use.


Oh, and welcome to AVS and the Cool Kids Thread! And thanks for the report from Norway.

--Bob


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> You don't mention which firmware version you have, but this has been a problem in recent versions.



I use the 2.07 firmware version, which I updated fromthe 2.04 it came with. If its fixed in the V2.07f, I really look forward to the official V2.08! Even if my experience with HiFi goes back 39 years (started when I was five...!), reading the procedures for implementing new test software, well, I just wait.


Regarding Anthem in Norway, this is a very new thing, and I already are promoting back here convincing the importer and my dealer to sell more. Home Cinema is on the rise here,you know, we have long winters...! Even my wife, until we got the projector and a 117' screen, only saw a movie 1-2 times pr month. Now its 1-2 times pr week. And its very social, last evening we invited neighbours to watch the 100m final in the World Championship with great success in HD!


My d2v is part of an High End HiFI system, where I focus for the time being, the best possible sound in 2 channels, before I move the whole thing into a dedicated AV room in a couple of years. Before the d2v, my CD player have a built in volume control and digital inputs that fed directly the power amp. However, I suspected that a very good preamp would make things better (after some other testing), and basically choose the d2v, not only because its abilities as a High End Processor with all the latest HD stuff, but also that it is a balanced preamp which should sound great playing cd directly. And it does! the sound stage becomes wider with more depth, rather than going directly.


So in this case, the d2v is a box that does it all.


The only thing I miss, is the possibility to apply the ARC also using the 2ch direct input, since my room really benefit from the correction, specially in the mid bass area.


Anyway Bob, I really apreciate your welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!


erikno


----------



## malcolmp6

I have been having no audio from D2v on powering on on few occasions. I have 2.07f installed. Solution is to turn it off and turn it back on.

99% of my HDMI handshake issues occur when I have the source turned on before the D2v is set to that source. For example make sure your D2v is set to DVD or SAT before turning on the sources for those inputs.

The only change I noticed in 2.07f is that the HDMI lock happens faster but the minor glitches are still there.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17012186
> 
> 
> The only thing I miss, is the possibility to apply the ARC also using the 2ch direct input, since my room really benefit from the correction, specially in the mid bass area.



You really should try using ANALOG-DSP with your 2-channel input so that ARC will be available. The digitizing and re-conversion back to analog in the D2v are so good I think you will hear all of the benefits of ARC with no degradation due to the re-digitizing.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17013249
> 
> 
> You really should try using ANALOG-DSP with your 2-channel input so that ARC will be available. The digitizing and re-conversion back to analog in the D2v are so good I think you will hear all of the benefits of ARC with no degradation due to the re-digitizing.
> 
> --Bob



I agree with Bob, tried it both ways and even my wife noticed the improvement.









John


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17013249
> 
> 
> You really should try using ANALOG-DSP with your 2-channel input so that ARC will be available. The digitizing and re-conversion back to analog in the D2v are so good I think you will hear all of the benefits of ARC with no degradation due to the re-digitizing.
> 
> --Bob



Does that mean i have to use the cd input which is rca input? Today, I use balanced cables...


erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17013542
> 
> 
> Does that mean i have to use the cd input which is rca input? Today, I use balanced cables...
> 
> 
> erikno



Nope. Just go into Setup > Source Setup for the 2-channel input and tell it you want Analog-DSP instead of Analog-Direct for the analog audio input.


Also turn on Room EQ so that ARC is active for that source.


If you don't want any surround speakers active, set Stereo audio mode in the Setup > Mode Presets for the 2-channel input for incoming 2.0 content (or select it on the fly using the Mode button on the remote).


If you don't even want your subwoofer used, set up a separate Music configuration in ARC without the subwoofer and then tell Setup > Source Setup for the 2-channel input to use Music instead of Movie for bass management.


I have my Music configuration set to include all speakers except Center (for better separation and front stage feel). Then I use Stereo audio mode with that if I don't want surround sound. That produces output on LF/RF/Sub only.


If I want surround sound I switch to PLIIx-Music which produces output on everything except the Center speaker I didn't include.

--Bob


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> Nope. Just go into Setup > Source Setup for the 2-channel input and tell it you want Analog-DSP instead of Analog-Direct for the analog audio input.
> 
> 
> Also turn on Room EQ so that ARC is active for that source.



Great! as soon as my son is put to bed (23 min) I will test this out. Have also a plan tonight to install the 2.2 software and do another test round., I realised that my screen was not lowered when I performed the first test, and later we have changed the table in front with a big thingy to lay down your foots on. These things I know influence accoustics, so better get it right now.


erikno


----------



## thestewman

I had an unusual problem occur last night with a Blu-ray disc we were preparing to watch. The disc is _Vicky Cristina Barcelona_.

I was using my OPPO BDP-83 to watch it thru my Anthem D2.

The problem was with the audio. Using my normal setup I could hear the audio for all the previews and the opening credits etc normal and OK.

When the actual movie started there were no audio options and the disc had only one audio format and that was displayed as English 3.0 LPCM

There was no voice audio and but you could hear occasional background music.

I tried every setting available on both units with no luck.

I did find turning on Secondary sound in the OPPO the voice audio was heard.

On the Anthem D2 it displayed the input sound as DTS, PCM, L R and the output as Anthem Logic Movie


I sent OPPO an email and their reply was :

_This disc has only one audio track, it is LCR (Left, Center, Right) 3.0 LPCM. Does your receiver support 3.0 channels when using HDMI?_


There is nothing I could find in the Anthem D2 manual.

Anyone have the answer to their question ?


Anyone have any information on this particular disc or this problem with 3.0

LPCM ?


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> Anyone have any information on this particular disc or this problem with 3.0
> 
> LPCM



Hey yeah, but I found the problem on my side. The speaker configuaration was suddenly wrong. I had to go in to set up again correct,m ie having only 2. Furhter, I had to reinstate my blue ray (panasonic) to bitstream. Then the d2v handled everything right.


erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17013964
> 
> 
> I had an unusual problem occur last night with a Blu-ray disc we were preparing to watch. The disc is _Vicky Cristina Barcelona_.
> 
> I was using my OPPO BDP-83 to watch it thru my Anthem D2.
> 
> The problem was with the audio. Using my normal setup I could hear the audio for all the previews and the opening credits etc normal and OK.
> 
> When the actual movie started there were no audio options and the disc had only one audio format and that was displayed as English 3.0 LPCM
> 
> There was no voice audio and but you could hear occasional background music.
> 
> I tried every setting available on both units with no luck.
> 
> I did find turning on Secondary sound in the OPPO the voice audio was heard.
> 
> On the Anthem D2 it displayed the input sound as DTS, PCM, L R and the output as Anthem Logic Movie
> 
> 
> I sent OPPO an email and their reply was :
> 
> _This disc has only one audio track, it is LCR (Left, Center, Right) 3.0 LPCM. Does your receiver support 3.0 channels when using HDMI?_
> 
> 
> There is nothing I could find in the Anthem D2 manual.
> 
> Anyone have the answer to their question ?
> 
> 
> Anyone have any information on this particular disc or this problem with 3.0
> 
> LPCM ?



I believe the original D2 does have problems with the unusual mixes like this. It likes 2.0 or 5.1. We've had posts here from folks trying to use SACD discs that decoded to 5.0 LPCM and having similar problems.


I suggest you get in touch with Anthem tech support and give them the details. It is barely possible this issue is addressed in the "test" 1.47f firmware for the original D2.


Now you say the D2 is showing the input as "DTS PCM L R". That can't be right. It can't be both DTS bitstream and LPCM.


But if the D2 is telling the Oppo it can't handle 3.0, then the Oppo is likely mixing that down to 2.0 LPCM. Apparently, if that's what's happening, the Oppo is not mixing the Center channel into LF/RF as part of that. I believe that would be an Oppo bug.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I have noticed the same clicking sound from BD Dark City out of oppo into my D2v, bitstreamed, with another 7.1 disc. It isn't a Lionsgate disc but the clicking now came through the front speakers, not only from the sides. Wondered if anyone else is experiencing this with their 7.1 setup using Transporter 3, Punisher 2 and now Dark City. Will email Nick.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17014436
> 
> 
> I have noticed the same clicking sound from BD Dark City out of oppo into my D2v, bitstreamed, with another 7.1 disc. It isn't a Lionsgate disc but the clicking now came through the front speakers, not only from the sides. Wondered if anyone else is experiencing this with their 7.1 setup using Transporter 3, Punisher 2 and now Dark City. Will email Nick.
> 
> John



Is it repeatable at specific time codes? I can lie to the D2v and tell it I have a 7.1 speaker setup to see if I too get the clicks out of the fronts.


By the way, I believe Dark City and some of the Lionsgate releases use the odd DTS-HD MA "speaker presentation" where the 7.1 track was recorded with the rears swung around towards the sides almost as if you had two pair of side speakers and no rear speakers. The decoding is different for those.


If that's the root cause of the problem, then it also ought to happen on Hairspray and Golden Compass.


I've not heard any such problem using HDMI Bitstream from the Oppo with Hairspray (which I use a lot for other testing), but then I have my speakers configured to 5.1

--Bob


----------



## erikno

Have adjusted the AnalogDirect to Analog DSP. Also updated with new measurements from the v2.2. Mode presets are corrected. Sounds very good. Still need to do some real comparison, bit the bass sounds much more tighter, the only question now is of this affects the dynamics. Hm, will get back soon on this.


One question. I have a full range speakers (Burmester B50) which goeas down to 30Hz, before dipping. The target is set to 40hz. Should I adjust this to 30hz and upload again?


erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17014830
> 
> 
> Have adjusted the AnalogDirect to Analog DSP. Also updated with new measurements from the v2.2. Mode presets are corrected. Sounds very good. Still need to do some real comparison, bit the bass sounds much more tighter, the only question now is of this affects the dynamics. Hm, will get back soon on this.
> 
> 
> One question. I have a full range speakers (Burmester B50) which goeas down to 30Hz, before dipping. The target is set to 40hz. Should I adjust this to 30hz and upload again?
> 
> 
> erikno



I would recommend you NOT fiddle with the "cutoff" settings in ARC's Targets window or the "cross over" settings in the Setup menu unless you are trying to make a configuration that includes no subwoofer.


Keep in mind that the effect of these settings is not immediate. There is a roll off over about an octave (e.g., 40Hz -> 20Hz). If you have a subwoofer in the configuration, ARC has already taken that into account in building its solution.


The best way to analyze this stuff is to look at the ARC charts. Open your results file in ARC's Advanced mode. In the View menu you can switch between the Movie and Music charts. The Targets button opens the Targets window.


You can capture those charts with the Screen Capture Active Window key combo in Windows and post them here for folks to comment on. I do that by pasting the captures into Windows Paint and then Save As using the JPEG file format. To capture the top and bottom of both Charts windows and the Targets window takes 5 captures in all.


You can Upload the images to AVS using the Manage Attachments thing below the text type in box. Links get added to your post.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17014538
> 
> 
> Is it repeatable at specific time codes? I can lie to the D2v and tell it I have a 7.1 speaker setup to see if I too get the clicks out of the fronts.
> 
> 
> By the way, I believe Dark City and some of the Lionsgate releases use the odd DTS-HD MA "speaker presentation" where the 7.1 track was recorded with the rears swung around towards the sides almost as if you had two pair of side speakers and no rear speakers. The decoding is different for those.
> 
> 
> If that's the root cause of the problem, then it also ought to happen on Hairspray and Golden Compass.
> 
> 
> I've not heard any such problem using HDMI Bitstream from the Oppo with Hairspray (which I use a lot for other testing), but then I have my speakers configured to 5.1
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I have been able to repeat at the same time codes. I will try Golden Compass again to see if I can get this to happen. But the last time I tried GC, I didn't hear anything. Just as a reminder, I didn't get this when the Anthem was told I only had 5.1 setup. Nick is aware of this.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17015002
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I have been able to repeat at the same time codes. I will try Golden Compass again to see if I can get this to happen. But the last time I tried GC, I didn't hear anything. Just as a reminder, I didn't get this when the Anthem was told I only had 5.1 setup. Nick is aware of this.
> 
> John



Urh, you mean you have NOT been able to repeat at the same time codes?


If you have time codes where it clicks reliably, let me know and I'll try it later.


Or has Nick told you they've already reproduced your problem in the lab?


-------------------------------------


Normally when you tell a 7.1 track you have 5.1 speakers, the decoder has more work to do. With these oddball speaker presentation tracks, the decoder kind of has more work to do when you tell it you have a 7.1 speaker system. That's because it is supposed to alter the so-called rear channels to account for the fact that your rear speakers are at a normal location behind the listening position instead of the oddball location to the sides.


It's all just math of course, but it is another place for something to go wrong. Blame DTS for adding in extra complexity for no particularly good reason.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike

Any suggestions of a good place to buy the Keyspan USA-19HS USB to serial adapter?


Does it take an "A" or a "B" size USB input (use A-A cable or A-B cable?).


Thank you,


Mike


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17015052
> 
> 
> Urh, you mean you have NOT been able to repeat at the same time codes?
> 
> 
> If you have time codes where it clicks reliably, let me know and I'll try it later.
> 
> 
> Or has Nick told you they've already reproduced your problem in the lab?
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Normally when you tell a 7.1 track you have 5.1 speakers, the decoder has more work to do. With these oddball speaker presentation tracks, the decoder kind of has more work to do when you tell it you have a 7.1 speaker system. That's because it is supposed to alter the so-called rear channels to account for the fact that your rear speakers are at a normal location behind the listening position instead of the oddball location to the sides.
> 
> 
> It's all just math of course, but it is another place for something to go wrong. Blame DTS for adding in extra complexity for no particularly good reason.
> 
> --Bob



I have been able to repeat it. The beginning of Dark City has it, right from the start. Transporter 3 has it in chapter 5, from the start where they are in the car. Punisher 2, not sure. And Nick has not said they have reproduced it, just that it is in the works.

John

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/17015083
> 
> 
> Any suggestions of a good place to buy the Keyspan USA-19HS USB to serial adapter?
> 
> 
> Does it take an "A" or a "B" size USB input (use A-A cable or A-B cable?).
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> Mike



Last I checked you could get them from Amazon at a reasonable price.


The USB plug end of that adapter is the "normal" size USB as typically found on computers/laptops -- not the mini-size typically found on portable devices with a USB socket.


Plug the adapter into your computer and run the serial cable from there to the back of the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17015099
> 
> 
> I have been able to repeat it. The beginning of Dark City has it, right from the start. Transporter 3 has it in chapter 5, from the start where they are in the car. Punisher 2, not sure. And Nick has not said they have reproduced it, just that it is in the works.
> 
> John
> 
> John



Ah! OK. I'll probably have a chance to try Dark City later tonight with the D2v set to 7.1 speakers. The problem shows up when you use HDMI Bitstream from the Oppo correct? And no problem when you use HDMI LPCM?


If I can reproduce what you are hearing, I'll let Nick know so that he can assure the engineers it is not just your hardware.


Another thing you might want to try is temporarily turning off Room EQ for that Source to make sure it isn't an ARC problem.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17015144
> 
> 
> Ah! OK. I'll probably have a chance to try Dark City later tonight with the D2v set to 7.1 speakers. The problem shows up when you use HDMI Bitstream from the Oppo correct? And no problem when you use HDMI LPCM?
> 
> 
> If I can reproduce what you are hearing, I'll let Nick know so that he can assure the engineers it is not just your hardware.
> 
> 
> Another thing you might want to try is temporarily turning off Room EQ for that Source to make sure it isn't an ARC problem.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, it shows up bitstreaming from the oppo to the D2v using HDMI and not with LPCM. I've tried all movies with pcm and no problem.

thanks,

John


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> I would recommend you NOT fiddle with the "cutoff" settings in ARC's Targets window or the "cross over" settings in the Setup menu unless you are trying to make a configuration that includes no subwoofer.



I only have 2 loudspeakers, thats why.


I've attached the measurements for any comment!


erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17015216
> 
> 
> I only have 2 loudspeakers, thats why.
> 
> 
> I've attached the measurements for any comment!
> 
> 
> erikno



OK, then yes, you can set the "cutoff" values all the way down to the lowest setting.


Open up your current results file in ARC's Advanced mode. Open the Targets window. Since you only have LF/RF the "Full Range" box for that pair should already be check marked and grayed out (you can't change that). This setting tells the Anthem that no bass management is going to happen -- no bass steering since you don't have a sub.


But you can change the "cutoff" value. Set it to the lowest value. The "cutoff" controls the low end of the room correction stuff.


Now I also suggest you go to the Max EQ Frequency value and raise that above the default setting of 5KHz. That controls where the high end of the room correction stops. You may be able to raise that all the way up to 20KHz without problem given your red Measured curves.


Accept those two changes (which will also dismiss the Targets window), and do a new Calculation. What you are looking for is whether raising Max EQ Frequency caused a reduction in quality of the green Calculated results line at lower frequencies (due to diverting resources to higher frequencies). If so, go back into Targets and back off Max EQ Frequency until you find a nice compromise setting that improves the upper end without damaging the lower end. Note that there is no need to re-Measure for any of this, so you can try a whole bunch of possible values in no time at all.


When the newly Calculated curves look good to your eye, do a new Upload and give the new setup a listen.


---------------------------------------------


You've also got quite a swing between 40Hz and 100Hz on both speakers in your red, Measured curves. That's a room response problem and it is a bit more than ARC can correct.


Some modest repositioning of the speakers will alter how they couple to the room. You only need a little improvement in the Measured curve and ARC will take care of the rest. Try moving them a bit further away from the nearest wall/corner. Even inches matter at these frequencies. Of course if you do that, you will need to re-Measure.


Next time you post, please also capture the Targets window and post that image as well.


ETA: Your residual error at 100Hz is really quite small, and you could just ignore it. But I suspect some modest effort trying to find new speaker positioning that smoothes out the red, Measured curve will be to your advantage. Among other things, the less correction ARC needs to do down there, the easier it is for it to divert resources to the highest frequencies. If modest repositioning doesn't do the trick, then you may need to apply some "bass traps" to the corners/walls behind those two speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17015215
> 
> 
> Yes, it shows up bitstreaming from the oppo to the D2v using HDMI and not with LPCM. I've tried all movies with pcm and no problem.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



Got it. I'll let you know what happens with Dark City.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17015307
> 
> 
> Got it. I'll let you know what happens with Dark City.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.

John


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> OK, then yes, you can set the "cutoff" values all the way down to the lowest setting.
> 
> 
> Open up your current results file in ARC's Advanced mode. Open the Targets window. Since you only have LF/RF the "Full Range" box for that pair should already be check marked and grayed out (you can't change that). This setting tells the Anthem that no bass management is going to happen -- no bass steering since you don't have a sub.
> 
> 
> But you can change the "cutoff" value. Set it to the lowest value. The "cutoff" controls the low end of the room correction stuff.
> 
> 
> Now I also suggest you go to the Max EQ Frequency value and raise that above the default setting of 5KHz. That controls where the high end of the room correction stops. You may be able to raise that all the way up to 20KHz without problem given your red Measured curves.
> 
> 
> Accept those two changes (which will also dismiss the Targets window), and do a new Calculation. What you are looking for is whether raising Max EQ Frequency caused a reduction in quality of the green Calculated results line at lower frequencies (due to diverting resources to higher frequencies). If so, go back into Targets and back off Max EQ Frequency until you find a nice compromise setting that improves the upper end without damaging the lower end. Note that there is no need to re-Measure for any of this, so you can try a whole bunch of possible values in no time at all.
> 
> 
> When the newly Calculated curves look good to your eye, do a new Upload and give the new setup a listen.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> You've also got quite a swing between 40Hz and 100Hz on both speakers in your red, Measured curves. That's a room response problem and it is a bit more than ARC can correct.
> 
> 
> Some modest repositioning of the speakers will alter how they couple to the room. You only need a little improvement in the Measured curve and ARC will take care of the rest. Try moving them a bit further away from the nearest wall/corner. Even inches matter at these frequencies. Of course if you do that, you will need to re-Measure.
> 
> 
> Next time you post, please also capture the Targets window and post that image as well.
> 
> --Bob



Great, the new line looks much better, Thanks Bob!


I will later work on the positioning of the loudspeakers. Now, this is gonna be uploaded to the d2v!


erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17015455
> 
> 
> Great, the new line looks much better, Thanks Bob!
> 
> 
> I will later work on the positioning of the loudspeakers. Now, this is gonna be uploaded to the d2v!
> 
> 
> erikno



What you have right now should sound very good indeed. As you can see, with the current allocation of correction resources, your residual error is really only in LF, so you may need to adjust positioning only for LF. But again, the error is small enough that you could also just ignore it.


Now your speakers really are dropping off quite rapidly at 20Hz, so the reduction of "cutoff" can only gain you a little bit. But that little bit may be just the ticket.


Keep in mind that you will need to get used to how "correct" audio sounds. Your uncorrected peak at 40Hz would have given an unnatural boost to bass down there, so at the start your bass may sound a little less dynamic.


------------------------------------------


I trust you realize you can play the full multi-channel tracks into this system even though you only have 2 speakers. In particular you can play movie tracks with LFE content. Unlike some receivers, the Anthem will actually steer LFE content (bass explosions and such) into LF/RF for your 2.0 speaker setup rather than just discarding it.


So don't feel you have to select the Dolby Stereo tracks from movies because you only have a 2.0 speaker configuration.

--Bob


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> I trust you realize you can play the full multi-channel tracks into this system even though you only have 2 speakers. In particular you can play movie tracks with LFE content. Unlike some receivers, the Anthem will actually steer LFE content (bass explosions and such) into LF/RF for your 2.0 speaker setup rather than just discarding it.
> 
> 
> So don't feel you have to select the Dolby Stereo tracks from movies because you only have a 2.0 speaker configuration.
> 
> --Bob



Oh yes, if there is one thing I've come to realize, spcially after having the d2v and the room correction, my goodness what a bass! I never thought my BAT VK 75 SE (valve)could be this good handling the speakers at the lower end, but it really rocks!


Just have a small listen after upload and the dynamics are much better, specially the high end of the spectrum, I can hardly wait for the next film....


Good night!


erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Seems to me you've earned a bunch of these guys:







































Of course they are bouncing in Norwegian!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17014436
> 
> 
> I have noticed the same clicking sound from BD Dark City out of oppo into my D2v, bitstreamed, with another 7.1 disc. It isn't a Lionsgate disc but the clicking now came through the front speakers, not only from the sides. Wondered if anyone else is experiencing this with their 7.1 setup using Transporter 3, Punisher 2 and now Dark City. Will email Nick.
> 
> John



I can confirm your result: HDMI Bitstream of the 7.1 DTS-HD MA track from "Dark City" Blu-ray results in low volume but distinct ticks, clicks, or pops -- reminiscent of the pops from playing a vinyl record -- but only if the D2v is configured for 7.1 speakers. If the D2v is configured for 5.1 speakers the audio is clean.


Here are the details.


Oppo firmware: 0805 "public experimental" version

Oppo settings: Explicit 1080p, HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4, 30-bit (Dithered), 1080p/24 Auto, DVD/24 OFF, Secondary Audio OFF, HDMI Bitstream.


D2v firmware: V2.07f "test" version

5.1 speakers connected. ARC V2.1 results Uploaded.


"Dark City: Director's Cut" Blu-Ray, Bar Code 7-94043-12553-9. This is the pressing distributed by Alliance out of Canada which is, I believe, newer than some of the earliest discs sold in the US.


Lie to the D2v by telling Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie that Rear speakers are connected (to make 7.1 speakers).


Load the disc. When asked, select the Director's Cut. When you get to Top Menu, Play the movie.


Video input is 1080p/23.976. Audio input is 7.1 DTS-HD MA 48KHz. 7.1 speakers are shown as active for output (although only 5.1 are actually connected).


I played the first 10 minutes of the movie, the ticks/clicks/pops were only heard between time codes 0:20 and 1:30. I played through that first 1:30 several times. The ticks/clicks/pops happened every time, but at different time codes. The volume of the pops was low but they were distinct. My impression was they were coming primarily from RF, but I'm not sure of that.


I then reloaded my Saved User Settings to restore my Speaker Configuration to 5.1. I power cycled the Oppo and played the disc again from the beginning.


No ticks/clicks/pops. I played through the first 10 minutes and then replayed the first 1:30 several times. The audio was clean every time.


I'll get this info to Nick.

--Bob


----------



## duckwood

I'm sure this answer is already here, but what is the quickest way to do an A/B comparison of ARC/No ARC to hear the difference? Since I've had the D2v I haven't noticed that the sound is so much better with ARC as it was with my older B&K setup. So I want to make sure it is actually doing something.


Abe


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Turned off room eq. And no diff. Tried Golden Compass and no clicking sound.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/17016268
> 
> 
> I'm sure this answer is already here, but what is the quickest way to do an A/B comparison of ARC/No ARC to hear the difference? Since I've had the D2v I haven't noticed that the sound is so much better with ARC as it was with my older B&K setup. So I want to make sure it is actually doing something.
> 
> 
> Abe



This easiest way to tell if ARC is making a difference is to toggle Room EQ ON/OFF in Setup > Source Setup for that Source.


However you can not actually A/B easily, because the Room EQ OFF setting will still use the volume trims and crossovers that ARC has established even though the room correction processing itself is disabled. In addition, settings that are ignored while ARC is active (e.g., Room Resonance Filter) come back into effect when you turn Room EQ OFF.


If you just want to make sure ARC is functioning, the Room EQ ON/OFF trick will do it. But if you want to compare what ARC is doing vs. the best setup you might be able to make manually without ARC that's actually quite difficult.


---------------------------------------


The two most common reasons folks get poor results from ARC are (1) that they forgot to turn on Room EQ for each Source after Uploading their first set of ARC results, or (2) that they didn't Save the Setup menu changes ARC made and then accidentally undid them later by Reloading Saved User or Installer Settings.


For (1), just go into Setup > Source Setup for each source and check that Room EQ is ON.


For (2), open your most recent ARC results file in ARC's Advanced mode and simply do a new Upload. After the Upload completes, check in the Setup menu that things look correct, and then Save User and/or Installer Settings to make sure you can't accidentally undo them later.


--------------------------------------------------


You can also get poor results from ARC by not following the instructions for proper mic placement during Measurement.


Point the mic straight up. Set it at seated ear height. Keep it away from reflecting surfaces like walls or seat backs. If necessary move it a foot or so closer to the screen or raise the tip a few inches to clear a seat back. Mic position #1 should be in the center at your preferred seating distance. Subsequent mic positions must alternate either side of #1. No two mic positions, whether or not sequential, should be closer than 24 inches from each other.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17016358
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Turned off room eq. And no diff. Tried Golden Compass and no clicking sound.
> 
> 
> John



I think I misremembered. I think Golden Compass was a release everyone expected had the alternate speaker presentation but didn't actually have it.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Now I am getting audio dropouts bitstreaming from my XA2. Miami Vice DD+. No problem with PCM. This bitstreaming is becoming a real pain in the butt.









John

The display menu also showed 96Khz PCM







Is this movie encoded differently. The video menu also shows 96Khz input.


----------



## davidhoenig

Hi All -


Anyone have a good recommendation for dealer who is willing to make a deal? I'm looking to buy a D2v for both my friend and I as well as a couple amps.


The dealer in my area is horribly snobby and I refuse to deal with him.


Thanks,

Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davidhoenig* /forum/post/17016535
> 
> 
> Hi All -
> 
> 
> Anyone have a good recommendation for dealer who is willing to make a deal? I'm looking to buy a D2v for both my friend and I as well as a couple amps.
> 
> 
> The dealer in my area is horribly snobby and I refuse to deal with him.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave



Check Anthem's dealer locator page to see if there is an authorized "custom installer" in your area. Some times they can be easier to deal with than the authorized store front dealers.


If you are near a state line, check zip codes on the other side of the line to see if there is another dealer within driving distance. If you can arrange for them to hand it to you across the state line, you might not even have to pay sales tax. As I understand it, it's OK for them to sell to you so long as you travel to them.


But Anthem dealers have protection within their sales area. Distant dealers are not supposed to sell into another dealer's sales area.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17016519
> 
> 
> Now I am getting audio dropouts bitstreaming from my XA2. Miami Vice DD+. No problem with PCM. This bitstreaming is becoming a real pain in the butt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John
> 
> The display menu also showed 96Khz PCM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this movie encoded differently. The video menu also shows 96Khz input.



It could very well be 96KHz. I'm sure there's someplace you can look up details like that, but I don't know where offhand.

--Bob


----------



## davidhoenig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17016589
> 
> 
> Check Anthem's dealer locator page to see if there is an authorized "custom installer" in your area. Some times they can be easier to deal with than the authorized store front dealers.
> 
> 
> If you are near a state line, check zip codes on the other side of the line to see if there is another dealer within driving distance. If you can arrange for them to hand it to you across the state line, you might not even have to pay sales tax. As I understand it, it's OK for them to sell to you so long as you travel to them.
> 
> 
> But Anthem dealers have protection within their sales area. Distant dealers are not supposed to sell into another dealer's sales area.
> 
> --Bob



Bob -


Thanks for the advice - all good. I travel a lot for work, so I'm open to suggestions wherever. I would prefer actual suggestions from AVS members have experience with those dealers vs. blindly picking another dealer.


Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Jayray,

By the way, audio dropouts, whether Bitstream or LPCM, are almost always a player problem.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17016263
> 
> 
> I can confirm your result: HDMI Bitstream of the 7.1 DTS-HD MA track from "Dark City" Blu-ray results in low volume but distinct ticks, clicks, or pops -- reminiscent of the pops from playing a vinyl record -- but only if the D2v is configured for 7.1 speakers. If the D2v is configured for 5.1 speakers the audio is clean.
> 
> 
> Here are the details.
> 
> 
> Oppo firmware: 0805 "public experimental" version
> 
> Oppo settings: Explicit 1080p, HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4, 30-bit (Dithered), 1080p/24 Auto, DVD/24 OFF, Secondary Audio OFF, HDMI Bitstream.
> 
> 
> D2v firmware: V2.07f "test" version
> 
> 5.1 speakers connected. ARC V2.1 results Uploaded.
> 
> 
> "Dark City: Director's Cut" Blu-Ray, Bar Code 7-94043-12553-9. This is the pressing distributed by Alliance out of Canada which is, I believe, newer than some of the earliest discs sold in the US.
> 
> 
> Lie to the D2v by telling Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie that Rear speakers are connected (to make 7.1 speakers).
> 
> 
> Load the disc. When asked, select the Director's Cut. When you get to Top Menu, Play the movie.
> 
> 
> Video input is 1080p/23.976. Audio input is 7.1 DTS-HD MA 48KHz. 7.1 speakers are shown as active for output (although only 5.1 are actually connected).
> 
> 
> I played the first 10 minutes of the movie, the ticks/clicks/pops were only heard between time codes 0:20 and 1:30. I played through that first 1:30 several times. The ticks/clicks/pops happened every time, but at different time codes. The volume of the pops was low but they were distinct. My impression was they were coming primarily from RF, but I'm not sure of that.
> 
> 
> I then reloaded my Saved User Settings to restore my Speaker Configuration to 5.1. I power cycled the Oppo and played the disc again from the beginning.
> 
> 
> No ticks/clicks/pops. I played through the first 10 minutes and then replayed the first 1:30 several times. The audio was clean every time.
> 
> 
> I'll get this info to Nick.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - Can you test with the Sleeping Beauty Dungeon Bonus DTS-HA scene? I get what I think is the same clicking/popping sound - 7.1 setup. Not horrible, but it shouldn't be in there. Just like you describe, like an old analog album.


I'm not using an Oppo either, so I think this is a D2v issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17016655
> 
> 
> Bob - Can you test with the Sleeping Beauty Dungeon Bonus DTS-HA scene? I get what I think is the same clicking/popping sound - 7.1 setup. Not horrible, but it shouldn't be in there. Just like you describe, like an old analog album.
> 
> 
> I'm not using an Oppo either, so I think this is a D2v issue.



How far into it before you hear the pops? Right from the start?

--Bob


----------



## erikno

From the newly published EISA Awards, we find







:



> Quote:
> European HT High End 2009-2010 -> Anthem Statement D2v + P5
> 
> Hailing from Canada's Paradigm stable, this massive AV processor/power amplifier combination offers decoding for all the Dolby and DTS HD-audio formats while the modular amplifier platform is available in both two and five-channel variants, rated at a substantial 325W. Packed with useful features, the D2v processor offers no less than 8 HDMI 1.3 inputs, 2 outputs, 10 S/PDIF digital inputs and a full 10 channels of balanced analogue outputs. The latest V2 version also includes Dolby Volume together with a bespoke and powerful EQ system called Anthem Room Correction (ARC) developed from research conducted by the Canadian National Research Council. This software is run on a PC hooked into the processor via an RS232 connection. The sound of the combination is both massive in its architecture riveting in its detail, a tour-de-force of musical and movie action to power the grandest of home theatre systems.



Thought this would be of interest.










erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17016655
> 
> 
> Bob - Can you test with the Sleeping Beauty Dungeon Bonus DTS-HA scene? I get what I think is the same clicking/popping sound - 7.1 setup. Not horrible, but it shouldn't be in there. Just like you describe, like an old analog album.
> 
> 
> I'm not using an Oppo either, so I think this is a D2v issue.



I tried the first few minutes of it last night with my fake 7.1 speaker configuration and didn't hear any pops, but frankly this content makes it hard to hear that type of noise -- there's so much going on in the sound effects.


I'll have to try it again later today when I can crank the volume up some more.


Are you hearing the pops right from the start, or do you have to get further into it to hear them?

--Bob


----------



## AltaHomeTheatre

Hi All,


I am having serious problems with my D2 that hopefully someone can help me with. I unplugged and moved the D2 yesterday. After plugging everything back in, I have the following problems:


1) No audio - on any of the sources. Cannot get audio on headphones or through speaker calibration menu.


2) Menus are very slow. Takes D2 1:30 minutes to start. After that, if I go into setup menus it can take 10-20 secs to change menus.


3) I attempted to reload ver 1.33 but it failed. It found the D2, turned it on, then failed with the error: "Failed to switch to 115200 kbs". I have tried on two different PCs (one with actual serial port).


I have attempted to contact Anthem Tech support both by email and phone but have yet to reach anyone. Stress level is getting high! I thought I would try here to see if anyone has seen these issues before.


Thanks

Darryl


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AltaHomeTheatre* /forum/post/17020319
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I am having serious problems with my D2 that hopefully someone can help me with. I unplugged and moved the D2 yesterday. After plugging everything back in, I have the following problems:
> 
> 
> 1) No audio - on any of the sources. Cannot get audio on headphones or through speaker calibration menu.
> 
> 
> 2) Menus are very slow. Takes D2 1:30 minutes to start. After that, if I go into setup menus it can take 10-20 secs to change menus.
> 
> 
> 3) I attempted to reload ver 1.33 but it failed. It found the D2, turned it on, then failed with the error: "Failed to switch to 115200 kbs". I have tried on two different PCs (one with actual serial port).
> 
> 
> I have attempted to contact Anthem Tech support both by email and phone but have yet to reach anyone. Stress level is getting high! I thought I would try here to see if anyone has seen these issues before.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Darryl



There is a fairly rare failure that is apparently related to disconnecting the D2 from wall power for an extended period of time. I don't think it has ever been properly explained.


It sounds like this is what has happened to you. The good news is this is something you can fix at home, but frankly it has been so long since we've had to deal with it in this thread that I'm not sure I remember the details.


I suspect what you will need to do is use the Flash Eraser utility to reset the programmable parts of your D2 and then re-install the V1.33 firmware.


Anthem tech support can get you access to the Flash Eraser utility. You should wait to talk to them anyway just in case I've remember the procedure incorrectly.


But take heart. We had several cases of this reported last year and they were all resolved at home with the aid of Anthem tech support.


It's possible one of the other posters here remembers the details and will chime in.


If you get any more details from Anthem as to what causes this failure, please do post it here, particularly if they tell you of a workaround that can prevent it from happening again.

--Bob


----------



## AltaHomeTheatre

Bob,

Thanks for the reassurance. This is the first problem I have ever had with D2 so a little nerve racking.


After I posted, I searched and found that MLBrand (07-05-08, 08:14 PM - post 14752) had exactly the same issue. He was able to fix using the flash eraser.


I will post after discussion with Tech Support.


Thanks

Darryl


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AltaHomeTheatre* /forum/post/17020492
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for the reassurance. This is the first problem I have ever had with D2 so a little nerve racking.
> 
> 
> After I posted, I searched and found that MLBrand (07-05-08, 08:14 PM - post 14752) had exactly the same issue. He was able to fix using the flash eraser.
> 
> 
> I will post after discussion with Tech Support.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Darryl



So maybe my memory ain't so bad after all!










The key thing when you do talk to them, in addition to verifying the proper recovery procedure and getting access to the Flash Eraser, is to see if they know why this happens and if they have any workaround to keep it from happening again -- for example, some setting change or other thing you should do before removing power from the D2 for an extended time -- if indeed that really is the cause.


Obviously many folks here have unplugged and moved or stored their D2s without any such problem.


If I had to guess, I'd say this is like the situation with some computers when their rechargeable internal battery -- the thing that keeps their clock going while they are unplugged -- loses its ability to take a charge. When they are eventually unplugged, that battery drains too fast, and some internal settings don't get retained properly.


But I don't know of any such part in the D2.

--Bob


----------



## hrada

I just set up my d2 and have run into a problem. When watching Directv and switching between high def channels and SD channels sometimes the D2 will lose the signal. I have to switch to a different source(like VCR) and then back to SAT to relock the signal. Any thoughts?

Thanks

HR


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hrada* /forum/post/17021074
> 
> 
> I just set up my d2 and have run into a problem. When watching Directv and switching between high def channels and SD channels sometimes the D2 will lose the signal. I have to switch to a different source(like VCR) and then back to SAT to relock the signal. Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> HR



The easiest answer is to switch to Component video and Optical Digital audio from your DirecTV box. For the contents coming in on that box, this cabling will give you everything that HDMI does without the hassle. Even if you really want to stay with HDMI for video, switching to Optical for audio will avoid the delay in startup of audio after the video signal locks in.


Now for HDMI, another easy fix is to set the DirecTV box to output 1080i for everything. That eliminates most of the handshakes.


OK, so much for the easy answers. The problem you are having is a failure of the HDMI handshake. The first thing you should consider is upgrading your HDMI cables, particularly if you have a long run to your TV. Also keep in mind the HDMI plugs are just a friction fit. Make sure they are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket, and that there is no strain on the plug tugging it in any direction (such as the weight of the cable). It only takes a little bit of looseness to make the connection marginal.


That sort of thing aside, Anthem is working on new firmware for the original D2 with new HDMI code. There is a "test" version of that out now. I'm not sure when the new firmware will be released for general use. But the reports on the "test" version have been encouraging.


The "official" firmware for your D2 at the moment is V1.33. If you bought your D2 used, check to see if it has older firmware and upgrade to v1.33 if so. Press Select once on the remote to see the firmware version number in the display.


Oh, and welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!

--Bob


----------



## AltaHomeTheatre

I wanted to post a follow-up on my D2 issues.


Piero (Anthem Tech) returned my call and said this is likely the result of a "collapsing power supply". He said this can happen when the D2 is connected to an external power source (in my case a Furman PL-8) and the power shuts down to it before the D2 is shut off. He told me the possible effect on the D2 power supply, but I wont get it right so I wont attempt to repeat.


Piero recommended that the D2 be turned off and unplugged before the external source.


In my case, I believe the breaker was turned off - which shut everything down in an incorrect sequence.


Bob, you were right on with your diagnosis. No problems with your memory. After running the flash eraser and reloading the firmware; all is working properly. The only issue I had is that the eraser application could not locate my D2 until I moved to a PC with an actual serial port (not USB to Serial).


Darryl


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Glad to hear your D2 is back in the land of the living!


The explanation is interesting. I hadn't heard that before. I'll have to think about that.


As it turns out, I've got my D2v on an APC-brand battery backup supply so that I don't have to sit through a reboot time if there is a momentary glitch in the wall power.

--Bob


----------



## ragdog

On using Direct TV I found that better cables work. Also setting all to 1080 helped and finally at times you just need to turn off the sat box and then turn it back on with your remote. I think Anthem has to resolve the HDMI thing better but have posted this thought before.


----------



## hrada

Ok. thanks i will switch over to component and digital out to resolve the handshake issue. Will i be missing anything by not using hdmi?

HR


----------



## hrada

One other strange issue I have run into. I have my xbox 360 hooked up via hdmi to D2. I have to set the xbox 360 to stereo out put in order to get sound when on the xbox 360 dashboard. If I set the xbox to 5.1 I get no sound at all(however video games like rockband in 5.1 work). Very strange. Any thoughts?

Not sure if this is related but I notice when i switch to 5.1 directv stations the volume from the d2 drops and it sounds like something is missing in the audio.

Thanks

HR


----------



## drhankz

It is not available on the Internet yet.


It probably will be in a week or so.


But you can find the PDF File *HERE*


----------



## The Bogg

Not sure if I've found a processing flaw in the D2 or not but let's hear what you guys think:


I had an Oppo 980 for dvd and PS3 for bluray. Just consolidated to the Oppo bluray player for both dvd and bluray. I've set the Oppo to output pcm since I have a D2.


I had been thinking that although the bass was good, it just wasn't quite what I had expected from bluray with ARC and my firepower (large ATC speakers and 4 JL F113 subs in a custom built room). I figured that one of my settings must've been off or something or perhaps the Oppo bluray had the lfe bug or something. Or perhaps my ARC file had been corrupted. All kinds of thoughts in my head so today I finally got around to fiddling with the system.


I had also been wondering why the soundstaging seemed to be "front-heavy" with less sound from the rears than I had thought I had experienced previously. With 2 small kids I haven't had as much time to spend in here as I would like but I could have sworn that it was more immersive before. The deciding factor came when I watched Knowing with Nicholas Cage. Most reviews gave it a 5+ rating for audio quality and bass etc... I thought it was a little bright and forward sounding but not bad. I'll cut to the chase...


I have a 6.x setup with a rear centre-channel. I set the D2 to do ProLogic IIx but it defaults to Dolby EX - I guess you have to actually have 7 speakers for ProLogicIIx.

I happened to be using a copy of Digital Video Essentials to see if I had the lfe bug or something. When the band-limited pink noise pans around the room you could tell it was quieter in the rear. I pulled out the RS digital spl meter and checked in the Anthem speaker level menu and all 6 speakers and sub were about the same within a db. I then ran the DVE band-limited pink noise and the front 3 speakers were at 75db, the sub was at 85db (hooray, no lfe bug!) but the rear 3 speakers were at 70-71db. I rechecked in the Anthem setup menu and it was correct in there so it must be a processing thing. I changed the Oppo to output bitstream for Dolby Digital and then remeasured with the DVE disc and to my surprise, the 3 rear levels were around 74db. I still had my PS3 so I repeated the testing with that and it also showed a drop in the surround output when pcm was used, but not for bitstream.


I defeated the Dolby EX processing so that only 5.1pcm was being output and the surround levels were 74db (for the 2 speakers). I'm not sure if there's faulty processing going on (I checked for all the different modes and it was the same) or if I just misunderstood. I assumed that by adding EX processing it would synthesize the rear speaker output but leave the surround speakers the same. I really can't explain also why the bass is just SO much better if I just use 5.1pcm (for bluray) without using the rear speaker. Clearly the EX processing does more than just synthesize the rear speaker, or there's something wrong. I suspect that something must be wrong because it's fine to add EX when bitstreaming dolby/dts. I can't bitstream dolby truehd or dtshd so I can't compare with that, but clearly it sounds better with EX turned off, and only 5 speakers being used (with PCM).


I pulled out dvd after dvd and bluray after bluray and just can't believe how much different it is for bluray. Now THIS is bass. I can finally agree with what ARC has done without feeling the need to tweak. When I was using the Oppo 980 and bitstreaming dolby and dts it was fine. While the blurays sounded good before I just wasn't as blown away as expected. Now that has changed!


I'll probably try to find a way to run an optical cable between the Oppo bluray and the D2 so that I can bitstream dolby digital/dts for the discs I have that have 6.1, although there really aren't that many. Lord of the Rings will be out on bluray soon enough, and that's really the main movie series with DTS-ES.


I was pleasantly surprised with the Oppo bluray with outputting 24fps for regular dvds. It works quite well in my system which supports 24fps, and there is smoother motion with some movies like LOTR. I haven't seen any glitches yet so I'll keep it at that setting. The processing in the Oppo is no slouch, probably just as good as the Anthems.


----------



## Ron Alcasid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AltaHomeTheatre* /forum/post/17021335
> 
> 
> I wanted to post a follow-up on my D2 issues.
> 
> 
> Piero (Anthem Tech) returned my call and said this is likely the result of a "collapsing power supply". He said this can happen when the D2 is connected to an external power source (in my case a Furman PL-8) and the power shuts down to it before the D2 is shut off. He told me the possible effect on the D2 power supply, but I wont get it right so I wont attempt to repeat.
> 
> 
> Piero recommended that the D2 be turned off and unplugged before the external source.
> 
> 
> In my case, I believe the breaker was turned off - which shut everything down in an incorrect sequence.
> 
> 
> Bob, you were right on with your diagnosis. No problems with your memory. After running the flash eraser and reloading the firmware; all is working properly. The only issue I had is that the eraser application could not locate my D2 until I moved to a PC with an actual serial port (not USB to Serial).
> 
> 
> Darryl



I've had to deal with this several times this year with my AVM50. Re-flashing and uploading settings brings it back every time but is a major inconvenience. Did Anthem mention a possible fix or a workaround?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/17021885
> 
> 
> I've had to deal with this several times this year with my AVM50. Re-flashing and uploading settings brings it back every time but is a major inconvenience. Did Anthem mention a possible fix or a workaround?



NEVER EVER HAPPENS HERE







D2 on UPS


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hrada* /forum/post/17021700
> 
> 
> Ok. thanks i will switch over to component and digital out to resolve the handshake issue. Will i be missing anything by not using hdmi?
> 
> HR



Not when hooking up a satellite or cable TV box. Component and Optical will give you the same stuff HDMI does for those.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hrada* /forum/post/17021732
> 
> 
> One other strange issue I have run into. I have my xbox 360 hooked up via hdmi to D2. I have to set the xbox 360 to stereo out put in order to get sound when on the xbox 360 dashboard. If I set the xbox to 5.1 I get no sound at all(however video games like rockband in 5.1 work). Very strange. Any thoughts?
> 
> Not sure if this is related but I notice when i switch to 5.1 directv stations the volume from the d2 drops and it sounds like something is missing in the audio.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> HR



I'm not going to be able to help you with the Xbox. I have no experience with it. Perhaps someone else can chime in.


For your DirecTV audio, make sure you have the DirecTV box set to send Bitstream digital audio. If you have it set to PCM you will get only a stereo down-mix for those 5.1 programs. Note that if you have a surround audio mode enabled in the D2 (e.g., Anthem Logic-Cinema or PLIIx), the sound may still be coming from all the speakers, but that's not the same as getting the real 5.1 audio to begin with.


You can press Select multiple times to see the various status messages from the D2. (Additional status info is available by pressing and holding the "7" key until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up on screen -- then scroll right to the Info panel.)


When things are working correctly for DD5.1 TV programs, the Select button displays will show you that the input is Dolby Digital and the 5 active channels of audio will be displayed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17021751
> 
> 
> It is not available on the Internet yet.
> 
> 
> It probably will be in a week or so.
> 
> 
> But you can find the PDF File *HERE*



These reviewers need to buy a Thesaurus or something. They keep running out of new ways to say nice things!











By the way Hank, I forwarded the PDF link to Nick just in case you hadn't already sent it. Thanks for scanning it in!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/17021801
> 
> 
> Not sure if I've found a processing flaw in the D2 or not but let's hear what you guys think:....



I've never actually used the Dolby EX 6.1 stuff myself, but I suggest one step might be to lie to the D2 temporarily and tell it you actually have 7.1 speakers. Then fire up PLIIx to get the 7.1 output. Now of course you'll be missing one rear speaker, but it should still give you a handle on whether there really is something strange going on with the Dolby EX 6.1.


I don't think we've had any problem reports about the Dolby EX setting, and if there's a bug, I think we would have heard some other complaints after all this time.


----------------------------------------


Other thoughts:


1) Press the THX button twice and make sure THX is OFF and THX Re-EQ is OFF.


2) Do the exercise to clear all of the "temporary" speaker volume trim settings:


* Save User Settings

* Reload Factory Defaults (use the front panel to continue if you lose video)

* Reload Saved User Settings


The temporary volume trims are not saved so this clears all of them.


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/17021885
> 
> 
> I've had to deal with this several times this year with my AVM50. Re-flashing and uploading settings brings it back every time but is a major inconvenience. Did Anthem mention a possible fix or a workaround?



Apparently the explanation Piero gave today is that this can sometimes happen if wall power is cut before the D2 is properly shut down. But it seems Anthem is saying it also has to do with having the D2 plugged into a power conditioner when that happens.


I'm not sure what the details are on this, but in any event, the workaround is apparently to make sure you turn off the D2 before you cut its wall power.

--Bob


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17022118
> 
> 
> Apparently the explanation Piero gave today is that this can sometimes happen if wall power is cut before the D2 is properly shut down. But it seems Anthem is saying it also has to do with having the D2 plugged into a power conditioner when that happens.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what the details are on this, but in any event, the workaround is apparently to make sure you turn off the D2 before you cut its wall power.
> 
> --Bob



This happens to our D2 any time we lose house power for more than a few minutes. Our D2 is plugged in to the wall directly. In every case the D2 was in standby. Do you think they mean that you should turn off the power (via the switch on the back) before unplugging?


Regardless, seems like a flaw with the D2/AVM50 (or at least some units)... I certainly shouldn't be expected to anticipate every power outage we are going to have and run and properly unpower (whatever that means) the D2 so that I don't get into this strange situation 


One of these days when I am very bored I am going to test this further... I swear, for me anyways, that this problem did not happen until I had started using ARC (or at least the first firmware that supported ARC)... Prior to purchasing ARC, I used to run the D2 through a switched outlet on the brickwall surge supressor... and the brickwall was only turned on when we used the theater (to be a little green . So the D2 was without power most of the time and I never had this issue (1 1/2 years plus in this configuration). It seems to me that after I started using ARC this problem reared it's ugly head and once I realized what was causing it (loss of power for more than a few minutes) I just kept the D2 plugged directly into the wall... Now I've only had the problem when power to the house is lost for more than a few minutes (which, fortunately, doesn't happen to frequently).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I really don't know the details. This Piero explanation is a new one on me. I don't understand what's supposed to be going on yet.


But if it were a common problem I think we'd have had WAY more complaints here. So there's something else going on that's not come out yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17016655
> 
> 
> Bob - Can you test with the Sleeping Beauty Dungeon Bonus DTS-HD HR scene? I get what I think is the same clicking/popping sound - 7.1 setup. Not horrible, but it shouldn't be in there. Just like you describe, like an old analog album.
> 
> 
> I'm not using an Oppo either, so I think this is a D2v issue.



OK, I had a chance to explore this more carefully at higher volume.


I was using the first 52 seconds of the track as the test -- playing it repeatedly. You really have to listen closely to distinguish stuff that's built into the track. For example there is a "crackle" at 0:22 which is part of the sound-effect for the torch.


Anyway, we've got the previously described strangeness where the D2v reports the Bitstream input of the track as 7.1 if you set 7.1 speakers but only 5.1 if you set 5.1 speakers. Apparently the D2v decoder is using an unusual feature of this track to provide two different "speaker presentations".


That aside, I did notice some pops playing this segment over again multiple times with 7.1 speakers set. They were similar to the pops I described for Dark City above. As in that case, they didn't repeat at specific time codes.


But I *ALSO* had a very few pops with 5.1 speakers set. Same sort of pops just much fewer of them.


So I think what I can confirm is that more pops are likely to happen if you set 7.1 speakers with Bitstream input of this track from the Oppo, but a few pops will also happen with 5.1 speakers if you repeat this segment enough times.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

I just took the jump and upgraded my 50 to 50v. I am looking forward to it based on what I read in here.


----------



## Ron Alcasid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17022118
> 
> 
> Apparently the explanation Piero gave today is that this can sometimes happen if wall power is cut before the D2 is properly shut down. But it seems Anthem is saying it also has to do with having the D2 plugged into a power conditioner when that happens.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what the details are on this, but in any event, the workaround is apparently to make sure you turn off the D2 before you cut its wall power.
> 
> --Bob



I live in the Midwest. It's not uncommon for us to lose power during storms. I think there have been a few others in this thread in which this has happened.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/17022556
> 
> 
> I live in the Midwest. It's not uncommon for us to lose power during storms. I think there have been a few others in this thread in which this has happened.



Yes, but it's a very few compared to the number of D2 owners posting here.


In any event, we ought to bug Anthem for some more details.


-------------------


As I said, I use an APC battery backup for my D2v (as well as the D2 it replaced). That takes care of momentary power glitches. If the power goes out long enough for me to do anything about it, one of the things I always do is power off my display and the Anthem at their mechanical power switches -- the back panel switch on the Anthem. That's mostly because power surges are not uncommon when power gets restored.


But I've completely disconnected my D2 and D2v, moved them around, powered them up at different places, etc., and personally I've not had this problem, which must be really annoying when it happens.


I'd like to get some more info on this. It may be purely bad luck, or it may have something to do with the order in which things lose power when the wall power fails, or it may be a hardware problem in certain units. I just don't know.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/17021801
> 
> 
> I then ran the DVE band-limited pink noise and the front 3 speakers were at 75db, the sub was at 85db (hooray, no lfe bug!) but the rear 3 speakers were at 70-71db. I rechecked in the Anthem setup menu and it was correct in there so it must be a processing thing. I changed the Oppo to output bitstream for Dolby Digital and then remeasured with the DVE disc and to my surprise, the 3 rear levels were around 74db.



That's about a 3dB error in the surround signals. It so happens that the PLII processor imposes a 3dB loss as part of its normal operation (this allows for the needed headroom when steering full scale signals in both input channels to a single output). It is necessary for the AV processor to apply the needed 3 dB correction somewhere downstream. Maybe that got lost somewhere. Even if it does or doesn't happen in PLIIx, it could still happen in EX even though they are the same core processing module.


Just a long shot possibility.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17024087
> 
> 
> That's about a 3dB error in the surround signals. It so happens that the PLII processor imposes a 3dB loss as part of its normal operation (this allows for the needed headroom when steering full scale signals in both input channels to a single output). It is necessary for the AV processor to apply the needed 3 dB correction somewhere downstream. Maybe that got lost somewhere. Even if it does or doesn't happen in PLIIx, it could still happen in EX even though they are the same core processing module.
> 
> 
> Just a long shot possibility.



Interesting theory. But the thing is that there's no problem if a bitstream is presented to the D2. It only seems to happen with pcm, from either the Oppo or the PS3.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17022098
> 
> 
> I've never actually used the Dolby EX 6.1 stuff myself, but I suggest one step might be to lie to the D2 temporarily and tell it you actually have 7.1 speakers. Then fire up PLIIx to get the 7.1 output. Now of course you'll be missing one rear speaker, but it should still give you a handle on whether there really is something strange going on with the Dolby EX 6.1.
> 
> 
> I don't think we've had any problem reports about the Dolby EX setting, and if there's a bug, I think we would have heard some other complaints after all this time.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Other thoughts:
> 
> 
> 1) Press the THX button twice and make sure THX is OFF and THX Re-EQ is OFF.
> 
> 
> 2) Do the exercise to clear all of the "temporary" speaker volume trim settings:
> 
> 
> * Save User Settings
> 
> * Reload Factory Defaults (use the front panel to continue if you lose video)
> 
> * Reload Saved User Settings
> 
> 
> The temporary volume trims are not saved so this clears all of them.
> 
> 
> --Bob



I did everything you suggested. My display says PrologicIIx when 7.1 speakers are selected but not for 6.1. According to the dolby site the prologicIIx can be used for 6.1, I guess it just wasn't implemented that way

in the D2.

Even with PrologicIIx and setup for 7.1 the rear speakers are still 4 or 5db

lower on the DVE level test, but only with pcm from the Oppo and not with

bitstream.


I actually did a google search to see how many dvds have DTS-ES and Dolby EX and there actually aren't that many! I'll just switch the Oppo manually to bitstream the dvds that have it and leave it at pcm for everything else.


There are a few reasons why this may not have come up before. I don't think too many people have 6.1 setups. I think most people have 5.1 or 7.1. The speakers are all calibrated to the same level in the Anthem menu and some people would probably just assume that's how it's supposed to sound (with weak surround). The people who are bitstreaming wouldn't have this issue - but then again they're dealing with snap, crackle, and pop by the sounds of it.







Since there's a way around the problem (bitstream for DTS-ES and Dolby EX, and "unenhanced" PCM for all other codecs) I guess it's not a big deal. Just a curiosity.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/17024167
> 
> 
> According to the dolby site the prologicIIx can be used for 6.1, I guess it just wasn't implemented that way
> 
> in the D2.



The D2 has it right. PLIIx can output 6.1 from 2-ch sources, or from 5.1 sources in Music mode. PLIIx 6.1 Movie mode is exactly the same as Surround EX, so rather than have 2 names for the same thing, we left it named EX as it came first.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17024965
> 
> 
> The D2 has it right. PLIIx can output 6.1 from 2-ch sources, or from 5.1 sources in Music mode. PLIIx 6.1 Movie mode is exactly the same as Surround EX, so rather than have 2 names for the same thing, we left it named EX as it came first.



Ah, that would explain why Dolby EX shows up in the display despite me

selecting ProLogicIIx for 6.1


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17020612
> 
> 
> So maybe my memory ain't so bad after all!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key thing when you do talk to them, in addition to verifying the proper recovery procedure and getting access to the Flash Eraser, is to see if they know why this happens and if they have any workaround to keep it from happening again -- for example, some setting change or other thing you should do before removing power from the D2 for an extended time -- if indeed that really is the cause.
> 
> 
> Obviously many folks here have unplugged and moved or stored their D2s without any such problem.
> 
> 
> If I had to guess, I'd say this is like the situation with some computers when their rechargeable internal battery -- the thing that keeps their clock going while they are unplugged -- loses its ability to take a charge. When they are eventually unplugged, that battery drains too fast, and some internal settings don't get retained properly.
> 
> 
> But I don't know of any such part in the D2.
> 
> --Bob




Bob,


you are correct servers and pc's have what they call CMOS settings and the internal battery generally aids in keeping power to the internal rom of those settings. I would assume that something similiar is used inside the D2 but cant be quite sure since I have never taken one apart.


----------



## usxplong

Hello everyone.

I am wondering if anyone is using a surge protector or line conditioner for the sub. And if yes, please tell what kind is good and not too expensive.

Thanks.


----------



## flavorguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AltaHomeTheatre* /forum/post/17020319
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I am having serious problems with my D2 that hopefully someone can help me with. I unplugged and moved the D2 yesterday. After plugging everything back in, I have the following problems:
> 
> 
> 1) No audio - on any of the sources. Cannot get audio on headphones or through speaker calibration menu.
> 
> 
> 2) Menus are very slow. Takes D2 1:30 minutes to start. After that, if I go into setup menus it can take 10-20 secs to change menus.
> 
> 
> 3) I attempted to reload ver 1.33 but it failed. It found the D2, turned it on, then failed with the error: "Failed to switch to 115200 kbs". I have tried on two different PCs (one with actual serial port).
> 
> 
> I have attempted to contact Anthem Tech support both by email and phone but have yet to reach anyone. Stress level is getting high! I thought I would try here to see if anyone has seen these issues before.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Darryl



I observed something similiar on my AVM50v with power outages. My AVM50v is plugged into a Belkin Power conditioner.... when powered up after this happens, my projector will show a blue, blank screen showing no HDMI source. I have no sound from the AVM50v although it does show an input source and the resolution of whatever I'm feeding.


To clear this, I turn off the AVM50v via the remote, turn off the power to the back with the rocker switch, turn power back on with rocker switch, turn AVM50v back on from front/remote. The AVM50v reboots and everything returns to normal.


I have never bothered however to go into my sub menu's to check my custom video settings. I will try to go in this weekend and see if they have been retained.


Is this the same issue that you are experiencing?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17027746
> 
> 
> Hello everyone.
> 
> I am wondering if anyone is using a surge protector or line conditioner for the sub. And if yes, please tell what kind is good and not too expensive.
> 
> Thanks.



I am using a Panamax 5100 for my sub. Use the high current input, there are two on this model. Works well for my paradigm Servo 15.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I think Anthem has dealer training going on this week. If so, we might get some more leaks soon on firmware, Dolby Volume, and the exchange programs.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17022478
> 
> 
> OK, I had a chance to explore this more carefully at higher volume.
> 
> 
> I was using the first 52 seconds of the track as the test -- playing it repeatedly. You really have to listen closely to distinguish stuff that's built into the track. For example there is a "crackle" at 0:22 which is part of the sound-effect for the torch.
> 
> 
> Anyway, we've got the previously described strangeness where the D2v reports the Bitstream input of the track as 7.1 if you set 7.1 speakers but only 5.1 if you set 5.1 speakers. Apparently the D2v decoder is using an unusual feature of this track to provide two different "speaker presentations".
> 
> 
> That aside, I did notice some pops playing this segment over again multiple times with 7.1 speakers set. They were similar to the pops I described for Dark City above. As in that case, they didn't repeat at specific time codes.
> 
> 
> But I *ALSO* had a very few pops with 5.1 speakers set. Same sort of pops just much fewer of them.
> 
> 
> So I think what I can confirm is that more pops are likely to happen if you set 7.1 speakers with Bitstream input of this track from the Oppo, but a few pops will also happen with 5.1 speakers if you repeat this segment enough times.
> 
> --Bob



Okay, so not just me, that's good I suppose.


Did you talk to Anthem, or should I try to contact them?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Go ahead and let them know, and mention that I confirmed.


If I send them any more mail they might put me in their spam filter!









--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17029366
> 
> 
> I think Anthem has dealer training going on this week. If so, we might get some more leaks soon on firmware, Dolby Volume, and the exchange programs.
> 
> --Bob



I believe dealer training was Mon. and Tues. As Nick told me, software is in perpetual development









John


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17016363
> 
> 
> This easiest way to tell if ARC is making a difference is to toggle Room EQ ON/OFF in Setup > Source Setup for that Source.
> 
> 
> However you can not actually A/B easily, because the Room EQ OFF setting will still use the volume trims and crossovers that ARC has established even though the room correction processing itself is disabled. In addition, settings that are ignored while ARC is active (e.g., Room Resonance Filter) come back into effect when you turn Room EQ OFF.
> 
> 
> If you just want to make sure ARC is functioning, the Room EQ ON/OFF trick will do it. But if you want to compare what ARC is doing vs. the best setup you might be able to make manually without ARC that's actually quite difficult.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The two most common reasons folks get poor results from ARC are (1) that they forgot to turn on Room EQ for each Source after Uploading their first set of ARC results, or (2) that they didn't Save the Setup menu changes ARC made and then accidentally undid them later by Reloading Saved User or Installer Settings.
> 
> 
> For (1), just go into Setup > Source Setup for each source and check that Room EQ is ON.
> 
> 
> For (2), open your most recent ARC results file in ARC's Advanced mode and simply do a new Upload. After the Upload completes, check in the Setup menu that things look correct, and then Save User and/or Installer Settings to make sure you can't accidentally undo them later.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> You can also get poor results from ARC by not following the instructions for proper mic placement during Measurement.
> 
> 
> Point the mic straight up. Set it at seated ear height. Keep it away from reflecting surfaces like walls or seat backs. If necessary move it a foot or so closer to the screen or raise the tip a few inches to clear a seat back. Mic position #1 should be in the center at your preferred seating distance. Subsequent mic positions must alternate either side of #1. No two mic positions, whether or not sequential, should be closer than 24 inches from each other.
> 
> --Bob



Ok Thanks Bob I'll check those things.


Are you also saying that you lose ARC settings with a firmware update? Because you have to restore factory settings (after saving user settings)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/17030279
> 
> 
> Ok Thanks Bob I'll check those things.
> 
> 
> Are you also saying that you lose ARC settings with a firmware update? Because you have to restore factory settings (after saving user settings)?



No. The Room Correction parameters are saved in a special memory that survives even a Reload Factory Defaults.


And of course you can restore your Setup menu settings by Save User and/or Installer Settings before going to Factory Defaults, and then Reload Saved User or Installer Settings after the firmware install.


However, even though it's not SUPPOSED to be necessary to re-Upload your ARC settings after a firmware install, I, personally, always do it anyway. I've already got the serial cable attached, and it only takes a little bit of extra time. So --- "just in case".

--Bob


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> I believe dealer training was Mon. and Tues. As Nick told me, software is in perpetual development
> 
> John



I really hope the next firmware for d2v comes out soon. This morning, after leaving for work, my wife phoned me quite angry telling that nothing functions (e.g. no audio) even if she had turned on and off several times, both the processor and tv box ad the tv. This kind of unreliability, well we guys are mostly used to it living with computers everyday...., but that patiance is not always shared!


And yes, the cables are very good (Nordost Silver Screen all the way) and the are regulary checked for proper connectivity.


erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The no-audio problem, if it is going to happen, happens almost always at power up. That means power cycling the player is usually not the best way to recover.


Instead, switch the D2v to a different input, wait a couple seconds, and switch back. The source device for the other input doesn't have to be turned on. You are just making the D2v redo its audio input detection. Keep in mind that it may take a couple seconds for the audio to start when you switch back to the desired input.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

This no-audio thing is catching......I noticed I lost audio on two HD channels on cable on Tues night just as I was powering everything off. So last night I spent an hour chasing cables and settings, rebooting my comcast box (which then takes a DAY to reload all the menu guide info...grrrrr....) all to no avail. Only those two HD channels weren't working but not the HD channels either side of them. The SD channels all seemed fine too. Very frustrating.


Then I notice a pile of blu-rays had fallen over, and they had fallen directly onto the power switch off my A2 and had shut it down (normally the D2v switches it on/off for me). So those TV channels were obviously transmitting in 2.0 while the others I checked had 5.1 going and I didn't pick up on the difference..........all the time I was convinced that someone had made settings changes....or something had gone screwy with the firmware..........ah well...sometimes its the simplest things


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A variation on Richard Syndrome! Listening with an amp turned off and not noticing!










It just goes to show how much of so-called 5.1 TV content is actually crammed into the Center channel.....

--Bob


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> The no-audio problem, if it is going to happen, happens almost always at power up. That means power cycling the player is usually not the best way to recover.
> 
> 
> Instead, switch the D2v to a different input, wait a couple seconds, and switch back. The source device for the other input doesn't have to be turned on. You are just making the D2v redo its audio input detection. Keep in mind that it may take a couple seconds for the audio to start when you switch back to the desired input.
> 
> --Bob



Exactly, always at the power up. Usually it is enough to change input or use on/off on the remote, but today, no. I had to switch the on/off on the back this afternoon. The next solution in the future is to leave the d2v on....!


What seems also to be happening, is that the no-audio problem almost always happens when I round off the evening using the cd player and the 2ch balanced input. I then turn off the whole system, and the next morning we have a so called "grrrrr" situation. Could there be a connection, meaning that you are leaving the HDMI section?


erikno


----------



## Texas steve

So where do I get a AVM50v at a good price?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just got an update from Nick at Anthem regarding the loss of power messing up a D2.


They don't think there are any cases where simply cutting power to a D2 will harm it.


However they have had to deal with some cases where cutting power to an ENTIRE SYSTEM WHILE IT IS OPERATING can leave the D2 in a strange state. What they think is happening is that the power supply in some other component (e.g., a power amp) is doing something strange on the combo of circuits made up of wall power to each device and the interconnects between them. I.e., as the power supply in the other component "collapses" when wall power is lost, it dumps its existing store of energy in an unusual fashion.


So they think the reason some people are seeing this on wall power failures when most aren't is due to the combo of devices they have hooked up to their D2 and their associated wall power feeds.


The situation is sufficiently rare, that apparently they've not been able to pin it down further as of yet.


Obviously one thing that comes from this is that you should always do a "normal" power-off on the D2 when you are done with the system, rather than triggering some other device to cut power to your entire system.


--------------------------------


I'll add my own, personal take on this, which is that if you have suffered this problem after a sudden power cut, you should probably consider what other devices in your system might be causing anomalous power during a sudden power cut. For example, if you have an amp that's supposed to be grounded but isn't hooked in to a properly installed 3-prong outlet. NOTE: Many folks use 3-prong to 2-prong cheater plugs on subwoofer power cords as a way to kill off "ground loop" hum. Since a subwoofer contains its own power amp, this is just such a case.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17028628
> 
> 
> I am using a Panamax 5100 for my sub. Use the high current input, there are two on this model. Works well for my paradigm Servo 15.
> 
> John



Thanks jayray.


----------



## hrada

I have switched to component to eliminate the hdmi handshake issue and have one question. When setting the output resolution which should I choose? I have the sony vplhw 10 and the native resolution is 1920X1080 p.

Thanks

HR


----------



## netroamer

I wanted to test some commands to the D2 through Hyperterminal. It has been a very long time since I used it and I feel lost. I'm sure I set the parameters correctly, but all I gest is a blinking cursor. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I set the D2 to TX ON and I can see the commands echoed to the screen as I press the remote buttons. But I can't send it a command.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hrada* /forum/post/17036046
> 
> 
> I have switched to component to eliminate the hdmi handshake issue and have one question. When setting the output resolution which should I choose? I have the sony vplhw 10 and the native resolution is 1920X1080 p.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> HR



Check out the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post link you will find in the collection of post links in the first post of this thread. It will walk you through the basics of setup for sources and display.


But the simple answer is that if your display has a 1080p native matrix (as opposed to merely accepting 1080p as input and then scaling that to something else before lighting up the pixels), then you should use 1080p output from the Anthem.


The Anthem will convert that Component input to HDMI output. In your Component video set top box, the best answer for what to have it feed the Anthem is the same resolution as what's coming in on the channel at the moment. For SD channels that will always be 480i. For HD channels that will usually be 1080i, but some HD programs -- some sports events for example -- are broadcast in 720p.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I reinstalled Windows Vista on my laptop and when I went to install ARC from my original disc, it told me I was missing files to complete the install. ARC 2.2 from the Anthem site had no problem installing and I put the two files from the original disc into the Anthem folder. Any idea of what files it is referring to?

thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17036623
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I reinstalled Windows Vista on my laptop and when I went to install ARC from my original disc, it told me I was missing files to complete the install. ARC 2.2 from the Anthem site had no problem installing and I put the two files from the original disc into the Anthem folder. Any idea of what files it is referring to?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



ARC installs some Windows stuff -- related to Visual Basic as I recall (for ARC's user interface) -- just in case you didn't already install them. I suspect your version of Vista had stuff that was newer than the original install disc was expecting. Apparently ARC 2.2 has that taken into account.


In any event, you did the right thing.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17035364
> 
> 
> Just got an update from Nick at Anthem regarding the loss of power messing up a D2.
> 
> 
> They don't think there are any cases where simply cutting power to a D2 will harm it.
> 
> 
> However they have had to deal with some cases where cutting power to an ENTIRE SYSTEM WHILE IT IS OPERATING can leave the D2 in a strange state. What they think is happening is that the power supply in some other component (e.g., a power amp) is doing something strange on the combo of circuits made up of wall power to each device and the interconnects between them. I.e., as the power supply in the other component "collapses" when wall power is lost, it dumps its existing store of energy in an unusual fashion.
> 
> 
> So they think the reason some people are seeing this on wall power failures when most aren't is due to the combo of devices they have hooked up to their D2 and their associated wall power feeds.
> 
> 
> The situation is sufficiently rare, that apparently they've not been able to pin it down further as of yet.
> 
> 
> Obviously one thing that comes from this is that you should always do a "normal" power-off on the D2 when you are done with the system, rather than triggering some other device to cut power to your entire system.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------
> 
> 
> I'll add my own, personal take on this, which is that if you have suffered this problem after a sudden power cut, you should probably consider what other devices in your system might be causing anomalous power during a sudden power cut. For example, if you have an amp that's supposed to be grounded but isn't hooked in to a properly installed 3-prong outlet. NOTE: Many folks use 3-prong to 2-prong cheater plugs on subwoofer power cords as a way to kill off "ground loop" hum. Since a subwoofer contains its own power amp, this is just such a case.
> 
> --Bob



Guess I had a lucky escape recently from such an experience of total loss of power then.


I was playing an LD while at the same time plugging into the system a HD player powered by a step-down transformer (240vAC to 110vAC). Unfortunately the transformer was set wrongly to 110vAC input. The result was a minor explosion which tripped the main supply to the whole house.


Feeling stupid, I proceeded to power up the whole system again and found the LD player dead (trapping the disk within), but most importantly, the D2 was alive and well, as was every other component. Of course, the transformer was truely well cooked.


Ben


----------



## dschamis

According to:

http://www.engadgethd.com/2009/08/21...audio-at-last/ 


the new PS3 Slim will be able to bitstream TrueHD and DTS-HD MA - finally.


----------



## hrada

I have the sat box set to send native. i was curious what to set the anthem for output. If the sony pj is native 1080 p there are three choices for the anthem output. 1920X1080p24, 1920X1080p25, and 1920X1080p30. Or do I choose 1920X1080i60?

I thought i had a 1920x1080p60 when using hdmi that does not seem to be available with component.

Thanks just a little confused.

hr


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hrada* /forum/post/17039662
> 
> 
> I have the sat box set to send native. i was curious what to set the anthem for output. If the sony pj is native 1080 p there are three choices for the anthem output. 1920X1080p24, 1920X1080p25, and 1920X1080p30. Or do I choose 1920X1080i60?
> 
> I thought i had a 1920x1080p60 when using hdmi that does not seem to be available with component.
> 
> Thanks just a little confused.
> 
> hr



Did you switch the connection from the Anthem to your TV to Component? You shouldn't do that. Continue to use HDMI to the TV. Just use Component from the sat box to the Anthem.


In Setup > Source Setup for the sat box, send the Component video input to the Scaler.


In Setup > Video Output select HDMI as the preferred output.


Then there will be no problem taking the "native" Component input from the sat box and converting it in the Anthem to HDMI 1080p/60 for output. And that's what you want.

--Bob


----------



## hrada

thank you. Thats the mistake I made. Switched it back to output hdmi and made the scaler input the component. Its funny, you go over something so many times thinking you have it right and then someone writes it down and it clicks.

again thanks

HR


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Good! I think you'll be quite pleased with what Component from the sat box gives you in this setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Another thought re the rare D2 problems after sudden loss of wall power:


If any folks here are having REPEATED problems with their original D2 where a sudden failure of wall power (e.g., blackout due to a thunderstorm) is leaving your D2 in a state where it can't be powered up normally when power returns, I suggest you write up the details and email that to Anthem tech support.


The key symptom is very sluggish performance (slow to boot -- slow menu operation) after this happens. The known workaround is to use the Flash Eraser utility to reset the D2 and then reload the "official" firmware for the D2.


If this has only happened once to you, this probably isn't worth the effort to pursue (at least now), but if you are having repeated problems, you should write it up. This is particularly relevant now, during thunderstorm season in the US, when events like this might be more common. For example, does the problem happen EVERY time or only SOME of the time you lose power, and what might you have been doing differently in the cases where the problem happened? Different connected devices turned on?


Anthem will need to know the serial number of your unit (and whether you've had any hardware changes done to it since you purchased it, perhaps warranty service). This is so that they can tally reports according to the particular production hardware in your unit.


They will also likely need to get some details on the other equipment you have hooked up to the D2: Power conditioners, surge protectors, amp models, source devices, display device. It's really hard to predict just what detail may be the key clue here.


For instance, does the problem always occur if the D2 is in use when the power fails? Or has it sometimes happened when the D2 was off (in stand-by) when the power failed -- and if the latter, do you leave your other devices like power amps always on even when the D2 is off?


This problem is rare enough that dealing with it for any one owner will be tough. Where do you start? But with luck, a collection of reports like this will help Anthem figure out what combo of connected devices may be related to this unusual problem.


Understand that you shouldn't expect an immediate resolution to your problem from such a write up. It is likely Anthem will need to collect info from multiple users to find a pattern. The trick will be to figure out what's different for the few users having this problem.

--Bob


----------



## highanddry

The D2v/P2/P5 that I ordered have arrived (three weeks after order). For those interested in the upgrade program, my local Anthem peddler tells me all Anthem's back orders have likely now been filled.


Can't wait to get some time to set this gear up with my JVC DLA-HD750 / Da-lite Affinity and Paradigm Studio 100 series stuff. I'm sure I'll be frequenting this thread.


Thanks to all here for unknowingly sucking me into this vortex. Stripper/beer budget is shot for months!


Can I get one of those emoticons please to soften the financial blow?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *highanddry* /forum/post/17041321
> 
> 
> Can I get one of those emoticons please to soften the financial blow?



Well OK, but only just one:











The rest will have to wait until you hook it up and start jumping up and down in glee yourself!

--Bob


----------



## shawnpivey

New to the forum, though am hoping to solicit some ideas and help to one of the first issues I've had with my AVM 50 in 2 years. I also left message with Anthem support, hoping to hear back soon. Here's a quick summary:


I've just recently started having some issues with my AVM50 that I'm hoping someone might be able to help me fix. Firstly, I am currently running v1.33, which I believe is the latest/final firmware update (I ran the upgrade from 1.31 after the problems started this week). The problem started just a few days ago, where for some reason the center channel (mostly dialogue) is frequently hard to hear - the best way to describe it is that the dialogue seems to be muffled and quiet, almost like you're hearing it down a long tunnel or even underwater. It's almost as if it's dropping certain midrange/high frequencies entirely, but I'm no sound engineer, so I can only surmise and try various things to narrow down the problem. Here's what I've noted:


1) I first noticed this when watching a BluRay disc through my PS3 (connected via a single HDMI cable). I thought maybe it was either the component or the cable, so I tried other components via HDMI (e.g., Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR as well as my HD-DVD player), and even tried swapping HDMI cables, but the results were consistent regardless of cable or component.

2) Next I tried other non-HDMI components like my Sony DVD changer (Digital Optical audio connection) - again, same problem. So it didn't seem to be an HDMI-specific problem.

3) Next I thought perhaps it had to do with the center channel speaker itself, or maybe the speaker cable or interconnect to the amplifier, but that doesn't seem to be the case since this effect only seems to manifest when I'm playing a multi-channel source input. If I just watch a stereo/2-channel tv show through my comcast box, the center channel dialog gets equally split across all 3 front speakers, and the center channel speaker in particular sounds no different than the front right/left speakers. So it doesn't seem to be the speaker or it's cabling/connectors.


I've spent a fair amount of time going through various configuration options on the AVM 50 to see if I could either find a work-around or fix the problem, but no luck. The best I can do is to change the HDMI mapping for my HDMI sources, where I can route the center channel audio to the front right or left speaker, which does get rid of the muddy effects, but obviously moves my center channel effects to the wrong side of the theater. I've also tried changes the processing modes to see if it was any single mode in particular that could be causing the problem (I typically use THX Ultra 2, but tried all of the other modes one by one to see if they were any better, but again no luck).


So, I'm now not sure what else I can try. Nothing has changed in my system for quite some time, so the fact that this just started happening a few days ago for no apparent reason has me wondering if some of the electronics have failed in some way. If anyone has had this experience (or something similar) before, or has some suggestions I might be able to try, I'd be very grateful! Losing one of the other 6 speakers would have been unfortunate, but livable, whereas the center channel kind of carries the whole movie experience!


Thanks much in advance.

Shawn


P.S. Is there a configuration option on the AVM50 that allows me to disable the center channel entirely, and thus matrix the sound to the FR/FL speakers?


----------



## rbastian

Hello,


I'm new to all the forum and looking to set up my first theatre. My primary viewing may be opera/symphony concerts, then movies. Quality of sound is very important to me. I will have high end speakers and 7 ch amp.


After reading everything I could get my hands on its come down to Anthem AVMv5 w/ ARC or NAD Mighty Masters M15HD (to be released soon), pretty much based on what's available from local retailers


I'm leaning towards the Anthem AVMv5, but its only sold thru 6th Ave electronics where I live. Not sure about them as a long-term dealer. My other local small specialty dealer carries NAD (T175HD and M15HD to be released soon).


Does anyone have any experience with comparing the Anthem with any comparable NAD (eg, the M15):

Quality of sound?

Upgrades (NAD now offers mod construction that apparently will allow both SW and HW upgrades by the user)

Reliability

Service.

Buying Anthem thru big-box retailers like 6th Ave?


This will most likely be my one and only theatre, so I want to do it right and not have to swap out later. My take from reading is that Anthem really stands behind their product, that why I leaning towards them.


Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks !


Rich


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17036184
> 
> 
> I wanted to test some commands to the D2 through Hyperterminal. It has been a very long time since I used it and I feel lost. I'm sure I set the parameters correctly, but all I gest is a blinking cursor. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I set the D2 to TX ON and I can see the commands echoed to the screen as I press the remote buttons. But I can't send it a command.



How are you connected to your TV? I tried to see if I could reproduce your problem but I didn't even get TX messages to my TV hooked up by HDMI. I would start with getting Tera Term instead of Hyperterminal.


A good check would be to send


P1Go;


This brings up the video menu. Easy to see if it did something.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnpivey* /forum/post/17041649
> 
> 
> New to the forum, though am hoping to solicit some ideas and help to one of the first issues I've had with my AVM 50 in 2 years. I also left message with Anthem support, hoping to hear back soon. Here's a quick summary:
> 
> 
> I've just recently started having some issues with my AVM50 that I'm hoping someone might be able to help me fix. Firstly, I am currently running v1.33, which I believe is the latest/final firmware update (I ran the upgrade from 1.31 after the problems started this week). The problem started just a few days ago, where for some reason the center channel (mostly dialogue) is frequently hard to hear - the best way to describe it is that the dialogue seems to be muffled and quiet, almost like you're hearing it down a long tunnel or even underwater. It's almost as if it's dropping certain midrange/high frequencies entirely, but I'm no sound engineer, so I can only surmise and try various things to narrow down the problem. Here's what I've noted:
> 
> 
> 1) I first noticed this when watching a BluRay disc through my PS3 (connected via a single HDMI cable). I thought maybe it was either the component or the cable, so I tried other components via HDMI (e.g., Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR as well as my HD-DVD player), and even tried swapping HDMI cables, but the results were consistent regardless of cable or component.
> 
> 2) Next I tried other non-HDMI components like my Sony DVD changer (Digital Optical audio connection) - again, same problem. So it didn't seem to be an HDMI-specific problem.
> 
> 3) Next I thought perhaps it had to do with the center channel speaker itself, or maybe the speaker cable or interconnect to the amplifier, but that doesn't seem to be the case since this effect only seems to manifest when I'm playing a multi-channel source input. If I just watch a stereo/2-channel tv show through my comcast box, the center channel dialog gets equally split across all 3 front speakers, and the center channel speaker in particular sounds no different than the front right/left speakers. So it doesn't seem to be the speaker or it's cabling/connectors.
> 
> 
> I've spent a fair amount of time going through various configuration options on the AVM 50 to see if I could either find a work-around or fix the problem, but no luck. The best I can do is to change the HDMI mapping for my HDMI sources, where I can route the center channel audio to the front right or left speaker, which does get rid of the muddy effects, but obviously moves my center channel effects to the wrong side of the theater. I've also tried changes the processing modes to see if it was any single mode in particular that could be causing the problem (I typically use THX Ultra 2, but tried all of the other modes one by one to see if they were any better, but again no luck).
> 
> 
> So, I'm now not sure what else I can try. Nothing has changed in my system for quite some time, so the fact that this just started happening a few days ago for no apparent reason has me wondering if some of the electronics have failed in some way. If anyone has had this experience (or something similar) before, or has some suggestions I might be able to try, I'd be very grateful! Losing one of the other 6 speakers would have been unfortunate, but livable, whereas the center channel kind of carries the whole movie experience!
> 
> 
> Thanks much in advance.
> 
> Shawn
> 
> 
> P.S. Is there a configuration option on the AVM50 that allows me to disable the center channel entirely, and thus matrix the sound to the FR/FL speakers?



To answer you last question first, yes, just go into Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie (and Music if you use that one) and specify that you don't have a Center speaker.


Center channel content will be steered to LF/RF instead. See Section 3.3 of the Manual.


If you are using ARC, ideally you should make this specification change in ARC and re-Measure for your ARC setup, but as a temporary change while getting stuff fixed, it is OK to just make this change in Setup without redoing your ARC stuff.


-----------------------------------


Now as to your problem.


First verify that the power amp you are using for Center is actually turning on. If you are using Triggers to switch it from stand-by to ON check the trigger cable connection and your Setup menu Trigger settings.


Next, make sure you haven't accidentally engaged the "temporary" speaker level adjustments with the remote -- the small buttons around the arrow keys on the remote.


You can undo ALL such "temporary" changes at once by the following procedure:


1) Go into Setup and Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. (If you lose video, continue using the Front Panel display.)

3) Reload Saved User Settings.


The "temporary" settings are not saved so this resets all of them.


------------------------------------


If you still don't have a solution then continue as follows. We want to determine if the problem is in the Anthem or in something after the Anthem.


So play a CD, and select Stereo audio mode in the Anthem. Audio should be coming from your Left Front and Right Front speakers -- and possibly your subwoofer. Does that all sound correct?


Good, now shut things down and swap the speaker output plugs at the back of the Anthem between LF and C. That is, plug the wire for the Center speaker output into the Left Front output jack of the Anthem.


Now power up and play that same CD again. Again select Stereo audio mode. Does the Center speaker sound bad? If so, then you know the problem is something *AFTER* the Anthem: The wire from Anthem to power amp, the power amp itself, the wire from power amp to speaker, or the Center speaker itself.


If this is the case you can progress outward from the Anthem until you isolate the point of failure. For example, the next step would be to put LF and C plugs back into their proper output sockets on the Anthem and this time swap them on the INPUT plugs at the power amp. If the problem moves it must be that cable. Otherwise continue.


------------------------------------------


So lets assume the alternate case: When you swapped the LF and C output plugs at the back of the Anthem the problem did *NOT* show in the Center speaker while playing that CD. The audio playing in the Center speaker (which is LF channel audio since you swapped those plugs) sounds just fine.


This would eliminate anything after the Anthem as the cause.


So power down and put the LF/C output plugs back into their proper sockets.


Next power up and play that same CD but this time select Mono All audio mode. This mixes the LF/RF input and sends a monaural signal out on all the main speaker channels.


So all your main speakers should be sounding the same. Does Center sound significantly worse than the other speakers? If so, then you know the problem is in the analog output for Center in the Anthem. The same audio content is being properly processed and sounds fine on the other speakers and from the previous test you know the chain leading to the Center speaker (cables, amp, and the speaker itself) are all working fine.


Which would mean you AVM 50 needs hardware service. Its Center speaker output is broken.


---------------------------------------


Finally, suppose the Mono All test does NOT show a problem in the Center speaker. The Center speaker sounds just like the other speakers. In that case the Anthem hardware is working fine and now you have to look for a setting error in the Anthem or in your source device(s) which would cause the Center speaker content to be mishandled.


In addition, use the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration to double check you haven't accidentally reduced the volume trim for the Center speaker.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:


I'm puzzled as to why I'm observing 'jaggies' on my TV even when watching cable HD television channels like PBS abd the Science Channel. My RPTV is 1080i native and the cable STB is set to produce 1080i for HD programs. I forced the cable box to output 720p to force the AVM50v to process the signal hoping that these jaggies will be eliminated but to no avail.


I was told by Piero that ALL processing in the 50v is done in 1080p mode and the final results are downconverted as necessary. Thats why I'm still puzzled at the presence of jaggies after the processing is done. Isn't the Gennum supposed to remove these effects from the program material?


Thanks

David


----------



## /dev/null




> Quote:
> Does anyone have any experience with comparing the Anthem with any comparable NAD (eg, the M15):
> 
> Quality of sound?
> 
> Upgrades (NAD now offers mod construction that apparently will allow both SW and HW upgrades by the user)
> 
> Reliability
> 
> Service.



I just upgraded from the NAD T175(not the HD version) to the AVM50v. The only way the Anthem is leaving me, is when you physically pry it away from me.










Here's the longer answer... I bought the 175 a year and a half ago, and although I like the sound of it, it had issues. Loud popping on source changes and muting, problems syncing to 1080p60 on HDMI, and some discrepancies with what the advertising said it would have vs. what it would actually do. The 1080p60 problem was fixed within a short period of time by a pre-out and HDMI board replacement, and a DSP upgrade. It still popped and it still would not do HDMI audio over 96k sampling rate. The HD cards/version is supposed to take care of my problems, but is not covered by warranty.









NAD uses a company called Lenbrook, to handle their customer service. The lead tech there,Bob Moran, is more than competent, but has his hands tied by NAD (engineering as well as advertising), and what he can and cannot do as warranty fixes. Now on the flip side of the NAD coin, I bought a 973 amp which basically ate itself upon power-up. (great circuit breaker tester...) I took it back, and NAD replaced the amp with a 975. No questions asked.


Overall, IMO, Anthem seems to be... more responsible when it comes to taking care of their customers, fixing problems, and producing what the customer needs; not by making a product and selling the customer on it.


Comparing the 175 and the 50v? It's comparing apples and apple pie. Both have sort of the same stuff, but one is a more complete, mature product. SQ-wise, I love the 50v. With multi-channel, the 175 presents 5-7 speakers playing back the source. The 50v gives you the full soundfield. The stereo imaging is also spot on. SACD and analog present a stereo image that far exceeds the physical speakers. I have had to check on a few occasions now, that I was actually in 2-ch mode, and that no sound was emanating from the rear speakers. Video? Don't even get me started. Not even the same playing field.

If you want more details on any of the above, toss me a PM...



Ok, that's enough from me... Anyone want this soapbox now?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17042555
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I'm puzzled as to why I'm observing 'jaggies' on my TV even when watching cable HD television channels like PBS abd the Science Channel. My RPTV is 1080i native and the cable STB is set to produce 1080i for HD programs. I forced the cable box to output 720p to force the AVM50v to process the signal hoping that these jaggies will be eliminated but to no avail.
> 
> 
> I was told by Piero that ALL processing in the 50v is done in 1080p mode and the final results are downconverted as necessary. Thats why I'm still puzzled at the presence of jaggies after the processing is done. Isn't the Gennum supposed to remove these effects from the program material?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> David



If you set the cable box to 720p, then the cable box is doing the de-interlacing.


But the real answer is that some HD content is actually SD content de-interlaced and scaled up for broadcast. If the content already has problems in it from prior processing like this, there's no way the Anthem can undo that.

--Bob


----------



## highanddry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnpivey* /forum/post/17041649
> 
> 
> The problem started just a few days ago, where for some reason the center channel (mostly dialogue) is frequently hard to hear - the best way to describe it is that the dialogue seems to be muffled and quiet, almost like you're hearing it down a long tunnel or even underwater. It's almost as if it's dropping certain midrange/high frequencies entirely...



Shawn:


As a quick check before adopting Bob's response...


Years ago, I had the high frequency driver die on my old centre channel. It produced the sympoms you describe. I could only observe the problem during movies where the soundtrack was recorded in 5.1 (wasn't set up for 7.1 at the time). Take the grille off the centre channel if you can during a movie and see if you can physically detect the drivers working. I was able to undeniably determine that the tweeter was not acting. I was suprised that a non-functioning high frequency driver could destroy dialogue so completely. I had the single driver replaced and all was well.


Hope that helps.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This is a good check, too. It might be easier to detect whether each driver in Center is working by putting your ear up close to it.


It is best to do this test using an Anthem output channel you already know is working properly -- e.g., hooking Center to Left Front.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17042633
> 
> 
> If you set the cable box to 720p, then the cable box is doing the de-interlacing.
> 
> 
> But the real answer is that some HD content is actually SD content de-interlaced and scaled up for broadcast. If the content already has problems in it from prior processing like this, there's no way the Anthem can undo that.
> 
> --Bob



OK...that makes sense. So how can I set up the pre-pro to cleanup my SD and HD broadcasts since this is where I do the majority of my TV viewing?


----------



## highanddry

Shawn:


I'm sure you know this, but assuming your grille is removable, you can easily see and feel (by light touch) the midrange and lower frequency drivers moving (which I observed in my case), even at low volumes/displacement. You won't see the high frequency driver move, but you can cover it with your hand or other solid object to detect any change in audible output. In my case all drivers except the high range were definitely active. Use soundtrack with a woman's/child's voice to provide best chance of detection.


I can't remember which movie we were watching when we noticed this problem but the dialogue was undecipherable; it was a drama and the lead protagonist was a woman. We hadn't previously noticed it and couldn't notice it after when the source was satellite tv.


----------



## flavorguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rbastian* /forum/post/17041707
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I'm new to all the forum and looking to set up my first theatre. My primary viewing may be opera/symphony concerts, then movies. Quality of sound is very important to me. I will have high end speakers and 7 ch amp.
> 
> 
> After reading everything I could get my hands on its come down to Anthem AVMv5 w/ ARC or NAD Mighty Masters M15HD (to be released soon), pretty much based on what's available from local retailers
> 
> 
> I'm leaning towards the Anthem AVMv5, but its only sold thru 6th Ave electronics where I live. Not sure about them as a long-term dealer. My other local small specialty dealer carries NAD (T175HD and M15HD to be released soon).
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with comparing the Anthem with any comparable NAD (eg, the M15):
> 
> Quality of sound?
> 
> Upgrades (NAD now offers mod construction that apparently will allow both SW and HW upgrades by the user)
> 
> Reliability
> 
> Service.
> 
> Buying Anthem thru big-box retailers like 6th Ave?
> 
> 
> This will most likely be my one and only theatre, so I want to do it right and not have to swap out later. My take from reading is that Anthem really stands behind their product, that why I leaning towards them.
> 
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks !
> 
> 
> Rich



If you PM me, I can give you an Anthem dealer in Morris county that does great work


----------



## binkman

While waiting 7 weeks for my AVM50v to arrive, I've been browsing this thread. Very informative. Now that it's here, I'm unable to get ARC to work and haven't seen an exact similar scenario. It could be the USB-RS232 adapter (IOGEAR GUC232 that shows as an ATEN RS232 in the device manager on COM-3) with my laptop running XP. I get the error that a valid Anthem processor cannot be found. I tried different baud rates, etc. and it still shows the same.


I then moved a desktop upstairs that has a built in serial port. This time it sees the processor but then errors that the Audio Wave Capture Device cannot be initiated. Perhaps that relates to this machine running Windows 7 (long story) or that it is a 4yr old computer?


Any thoughts much appreciated. I'm heading out to look for another adapter in the meantime to see if that will solve it.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *binkman* /forum/post/17043689
> 
> 
> While waiting 7 weeks for my AVM50v to arrive, I've been browsing this thread. Very informative. Now that it's here, I'm unable to get ARC to work and haven't seen an exact similar scenario. It could be the USB-RS232 adapter (IOGEAR GUC232 that shows as an ATEN RS232 in the device manager on COM-3) with my laptop running XP. I get the error that a valid Anthem processor cannot be found. I tried different baud rates, etc. and it still shows the same.
> 
> 
> I then moved a desktop upstairs that has a built in serial port. This time it sees the processor but then errors that the Audio Wave Capture Device cannot be initiated. Perhaps that relates to this machine running Windows 7 (long story) or that it is a 4yr old computer?
> 
> 
> Any thoughts much appreciated. I'm heading out to look for another adapter in the meantime to see if that will solve it.



Nick at Anthem has told me that firmware and ARC software have not been optimized for Win 7 yet, so this may be contributing to the problem. The USB-serial cable most use here is the Keyspan USA-19HS. Very reliable.

John


----------



## wabbit636

Bob.


I am in the process of probably selling my beloved audyssey pro sound eq after using it for almost 2 years. I have been procrasting doing this ever since ARC came out but stayed with my audyssey because it is amazing. Selling it will help me fund upgrades.


Right now I use my system for HT and 2 channel as I pull up a chair in front of my HT seats so I am sitting a few few closer to the speakers and sit in the sweet spot. Now my audyssey calibrates for the whole general area. To calibrate the Audyssey for 2 channel in my system would require me to swap from one input/output to another that was calibrated for the 2 channels.


Can you do 2 separate calibrations (ie HT & 2 channel with a different seating location) with ARC? If it does, then going with ARC is the best option for me but I just hope that it is as good as the Audyssey Pro Sound Eq because I just can't stand listening to music, movies, etc without it now.


Thanks


Pat


----------



## tngiloy

I am setting up my new laptop. I ran/installed the disc from ARC 1.1, then downloaded ARC 2.2 from Anthem website. Intalled the driver for the keyspan usb/serial adapter. I then opened ARC and it recognized my unit.









BUT, I was hoping I could retreive my last ARC settings/configuration from my D2 unit and download it on to my laptop. If there is a way to do this please instruct me. I still have my old laptop, so if there is a way to copy the file from it to my new laptop on a thumbdrive I could do it that way also.

Please help out a computer moron!

BTW- has anyone been using the new MS7 OS with Anthem pre/pro's for ARC or firmware updates? Since I get a 'free' upgrade to 7 from vista, I would like to know if it plays well with Anthem.

Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *binkman* /forum/post/17043689
> 
> 
> While waiting 7 weeks for my AVM50v to arrive, I've been browsing this thread. Very informative. Now that it's here, I'm unable to get ARC to work and haven't seen an exact similar scenario. It could be the USB-RS232 adapter (IOGEAR GUC232 that shows as an ATEN RS232 in the device manager on COM-3) with my laptop running XP. I get the error that a valid Anthem processor cannot be found. I tried different baud rates, etc. and it still shows the same.
> 
> 
> I then moved a desktop upstairs that has a built in serial port. This time it sees the processor but then errors that the Audio Wave Capture Device cannot be initiated. Perhaps that relates to this machine running Windows 7 (long story) or that it is a 4yr old computer?
> 
> 
> Any thoughts much appreciated. I'm heading out to look for another adapter in the meantime to see if that will solve it.



Get the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter -- available from Amazon and other places. Be sure to uninstall your old adapter driver before installing the Keyspan. Check the Keyspan support site to see if you have the most recent driver in the package, since sometimes these packages sit on the peg a long time before they get sold.


----------------------------


ARC uses an audio capture framework that first appeared in Windows XP for accessing the ARC mic. It is possible your copy of Windows 7 doesn't have this framework or that you haven't done the full Windows 7 install so the media stuff isn't installed. I don't believe we've had any reports yet from anyone trying Windows 7 with ARC or the Anthem utilities or firmware installers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/17043906
> 
> 
> Bob.
> 
> 
> I am in the process of probably selling my beloved audyssey pro sound eq after using it for almost 2 years. I have been procrasting doing this ever since ARC came out but stayed with my audyssey because it is amazing. Selling it will help me fund upgrades.
> 
> 
> Right now I use my system for HT and 2 channel as I pull up a chair in front of my HT seats so I am sitting a few few closer to the speakers and sit in the sweet spot. Now my audyssey calibrates for the whole general area. To calibrate the Audyssey for 2 channel in my system would require me to swap from one input/output to another that was calibrated for the 2 channels.
> 
> 
> Can you do 2 separate calibrations (ie HT & 2 channel with a different seating location) with ARC? If it does, then going with ARC is the best option for me but I just hope that it is as good as the Audyssey Pro Sound Eq because I just can't stand listening to music, movies, etc without it now.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Pat



Yes you can, but with one proviso: You can set up a separate Movie and Music configuration in ARC with different speakers active in Music and with different mic locations when you do the Measurements. You can even configure the room differently for the Music setup (e.g., display screen up instead of down). This will result in two different solutions each with their own set of optimized cross overs and room correction parameters.


HOWEVER, the Anthem only allows one set of speaker volume trims one set of speaker distance settings.


So long as the LF/RF speakers have the same relative seating distance DIFFERENCE in the Movie and Music mic #1 locations (e.g., they are equidistant for both mic locations even though the music mic location is closer) then that's no problem.


The volume trim adjustment is a little trickier. The effective volume trim for each speaker is a combo of the volume trim setting ARC uploads and the result of the room correction parameters ARC applies for that speaker. ARC adjusts the room correction parameters for Movie and Music so that both configurations can share the same set of uploaded volume trims. However if the difference between Movie and Music is too large, for example because you are much MUCH closer to the speakers for Music, ARC will not be able to produce a solution and it will give you an error message.


I'm just trying to lay out the possibilities for you. Practically speaking, the volume trim will not be an issue and ARC will just come up with the right solution for both Movie and Music.


Please note that ARC operates in the digital music domain. That means if you are using 2 channel (or 5.1) ANALOG audio input, you must allow the Anthem to digitize the analog audio, do its processing, and then re-convert that back to analog for output. If this is of concern to you, I recommend you look at the Anthem Statement D2v instead of the AVM 50v. By all reports the digitized path for analog audio through the D2v is exceptionally transparent. So you get the value of being able to use ARC for analog inputs without suffering any quality loss due to the digitizing.


As for input/output selection, the Anthem provides "overlaid" Source definitions -- different settings referring to the same source device. So for example if you want to do both HDMI 5.1 and HDMI 2.0 SACD from the same device you can just create two Source definitions one of which uses your 5.1 speaker setup and the other of which uses your 2.0 speaker setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/17044145
> 
> 
> I am setting up my new laptop. I ran/installed the disc from ARC 1.1, then downloaded ARC 2.2 from Anthem website. Intalled the driver for the keyspan usb/serial adapter. I then opened ARC and it recognized my unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT, I was hoping I could retreive my last ARC settings/configuration from my D2 unit and download it on to my laptop. If there is a way to do this please instruct me. I still have my old laptop, so if there is a way to copy the file from it to my new laptop on a thumbdrive I could do it that way also.
> 
> Please help out a computer moron!
> 
> BTW- has anyone been using the new MS7 OS with Anthem pre/pro's for ARC or firmware updates? Since I get a 'free' upgrade to 7 from vista, I would like to know if it plays well with Anthem.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



You can not retrieve the ARC room correction settings from the D2 itself.


So yes, what you want to do is simply transfer your ARC results file from the old computer to the new computer. A USB thumb drive is an easy and inexpensive way to to this. Then open that file on the new computer in ARC's "Advanced" mode and you can Upload it to the D2 whenever you want. Of course, you don't need to do that now since the settings are already in your D2.


Vista 7 is an unknown at the moment. I suggest you avoid it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17042820
> 
> 
> OK...that makes sense. So how can I set up the pre-pro to cleanup my SD and HD broadcasts since this is where I do the majority of my TV viewing?



Check out the first post of this thread for post links to lots of tutorial posts scattered through the thread -- what I like to call, "The Good Parts Version".


In particular, look for the post link to "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs". That will walk you through the basics of setup for sources, display, and the Anthem.


The simple answer is to set your cable or satellite box to output the same thing that's coming in on the channel at the moment. For SD channels that will always be 480i (in the US). For HD channels that will usually be 1080i but some HD programs are broadcast in 720p. If your box doesn't allow you to do a "native" output like that, then 480i and 1080i is the next best choice.


Now set this way, the Anthem will do all the heavy lifting on your video, but you need to understand that sometimes video programs are damaged even before they get to your cable/satellite box. For example SD programs have been copied and re-copied too many times when being distributed and the look washed out and with loss of detail. Or HD programs turn out to actually be SD programs that have been poorly de-interlaced and scaled up to HD for broadcast. There's no way to remove such damage once it has been done. The most you can do is blur it so that it is less obvious.


I recommend you set up for high quality content -- good TV channels or content from good discs -- and leave it at that. As is always true, the better your audio and video setup, the more you will notice the difference between good source content and bad source content. My recommendation is that you don't try to fight that. Just resolve to watch more channels or discs with good quality content.


Some of my old CDs are unlistenable on my current setup because the Anthem reveals every last bit of the poor quality of their recordings.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17044266
> 
> 
> Vista 7 is an unknown at the moment. I suggest you avoid it.
> 
> --Bob



PLEASE

Don't use the word Vista and 7 in the same sentence










It is Windows 7


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17042318
> 
> 
> Now as to your problem.
> 
> 
> First verify that the power amp you are using for Center is actually turning on. If you are using Triggers to switch it from stand-by to ON check the trigger cable connection and your Setup menu Trigger settings.
> 
> 
> --Bob










This exact thing happened to me this week! I could not figure out why I could get sound on some HDTV channels and "weird" sound on others.


We had a power loss during the day at home this week and it messed up the trigger coordination on the 5-channel amp that runs the center/surrounds/rears, but it did not impact my front 2-ch amp.


Once I figured out the 5-channel was not turning on, I reset its trigger per the amp instructions and everything worked just fine.


The problem was not with the D2v, but with my Simaudio Titan Amp. Power losses can cause weird problems.


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17044363
> 
> 
> PLEASE
> 
> Don't use the word Vista and 7 in the same sentence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is Windows 7



I thought "Vista" was by now a generic term meaning, "really awful"? You mean that doesn't apply to Windows 7?









--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17044792
> 
> 
> I thought "Vista" was by now a generic term meaning, "really awful"? You mean that doesn't apply to Windows 7?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



NO NO NO - Windows 7 is REALY GOOD - for a Change.


The only problem is - Microsoft made sure they got even

with people who are still running XP.


It is Called NO WAY to GET SOMETHING GOOD


----------



## shawnpivey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *highanddry* /forum/post/17042682
> 
> 
> Shawn:
> 
> 
> As a quick check before adopting Bob's response...
> 
> 
> Years ago, I had the high frequency driver die on my old centre channel. It produced the sympoms you describe. I could only observe the problem during movies where the soundtrack was recorded in 5.1 (wasn't set up for 7.1 at the time). Take the grille off the centre channel if you can during a movie and see if you can physically detect the drivers working. I was able to undeniably determine that the tweeter was not acting. I was suprised that a non-functioning high frequency driver could destroy dialogue so completely. I had the single driver replaced and all was well.
> 
> 
> Hope that helps.



All,


Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions re: my center channel issue. Did some additional debugging today, and it turns out I do seem to have a faulty center channel speaker - all else seems to check out ok, including components, cables, etc. I have a Klipsch THX Ultra 2 7.1 setup in the theater - using the same speakers for FR/FL/C - and for some reason I'm losing high frequency effects on my center channel. Both my AVM50 and Anthem 2/5 channel amps seems to working great. For the time being, I've switched my center and left speakers...much less noticeable on multi-channel movies...until I can fix my speaker issue.


Cheers!

Shawn


----------



## Verbow

I'm noticing a new problem on my D2v (which has always worked flawlessly). Previously, it always displayed the codec of the disc I was playing, ex DTS MA or DD EX. Now it just says "Digital" on the DVD input, whether it's DVD or BD, DD or DTS. I tried playing a couple DTS-MA discs tonight, and when I hit the mode button it just said "DTS 5.1 Input". I wasn't sure if the display size limited the ability to put "HD" on there (unlikely) or if something funny is going on (much more likely).


I updated my Pioneer to the latest firmware and made sure HDMI audio was on "auto", not "PCM" in the BD player. I'm using Anthem Firmware 2.04 (I've never needed to update - I use a Lumagen for all video and audio has been without issue).


Any ideas what the problem could be? This happened out of the blue. TV, using an optical cable, still displays the codec fine.


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Verbow* /forum/post/17046630
> 
> 
> I'm noticing a new problem on my D2v (which has always worked flawlessly). Previously, it always displayed the codec of the disc I was playing, ex DTS MA or DD EX. Now it just says "Digital" on the DVD input, whether it's DVD or BD, DD or DTS. I tried playing a couple DTS-MA discs tonight, and when I hit the mode button it just said "DTS 5.1 Input". I wasn't sure if the display size limited the ability to put "HD" on there (unlikely) or if something funny is going on (much more likely).
> 
> 
> I updated my Pioneer to the latest firmware and made sure HDMI audio was on "auto", not "PCM" in the BD player. I'm using Anthem Firmware 2.04 (I've never needed to update - I use a Lumagen for all video and audio has been without issue).
> 
> 
> Any ideas what the problem could be? This happened out of the blue. TV, using an optical cable, still displays the codec fine.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



The most likely explanation is that you've made a setting change in the player which is causing it to send out HDMI Bitstream of the lossy, compatibility track instead of the full lossless track.


For a TrueHD track, the "associated" lossy, compatibility track will be traditional, lossy, DD 5.1 track.


For a DTS-HD MA track, the "core" lossy, compatibility track will be a traditional, lossy, DTS 5.1 track.


The setting most commonly the cause of this problem is that you have enabled "Secondary Audio" or "Menu Sound Effects" in your Blu-Ray player.


-----------------------------


By the way, I recommend you update to "official" firmware V2.07.

--Bob


----------



## Verbow

Thanks Bob, but unfortunately something else is going on. I unplugged the power cord for about 20 sec and restarted it. Same problem, but every few seconds the DTS-MA display would come on and the blue light on the left would lock. It would only flash on for half a second and then say "Digital" again, but the fact that it was happening means it's getting the right digital signal.


I'll also add it's not limited to the lossless codecs - I put on a SD Starwars DVD and same issue - it said "digital" with flashes of the Dolby logo and Dolby light going on...


Edit: Just walked out and it was locked to DTS-MA after watching a whole movie (and testing others) where it didn't. Maybe the power cycling helped - need to get to bed so will try more tests tomorrow - but definitely something buggy going on.


Edit 2: Tried Starwars DVD this morning and same issue; "Dolby" and Dolby blue light flash for about 1/2 second intermittently, then back to display that says "Digital". No perceivable change in audio and it says DD 5.1 when I hit mode. When there is no disk, it goes between very quick flashes of "PCM 2 Ch" (which is what it had always said) and "Digital". Switched to a different HDMI jack and same issue.


Any ideas Bob? I'll update the firmware and see if it helps, but never had a problem with 2.04 before...


----------



## ravichopra

Finally tested 1.47f on my AVM50 (red video board).


Hugely hugely positive results. I've been having all kinds of HDMI handshaking issues that this seems to have completely resolved.


1) Used to have to connect S3 TiVo via component cables to use Native output mode (so AVM would be doing all the video upscaling and processing). Historically, using HDMI in this mode created all kinds of problems when the resolution would switch, usually resulting in a complete loss of signal. The new experimental firmware appears to have completely eliminated this problem. Now happily using HDMI for TiVo as well as my Popcorn player and Oppo Blu-ray.


2) I had experienced all kinds of custom video settings weirdness (would forget if it was in 4x3 or widescreen, would forget to apply sharpening settings) through resolution switches from the TiVo. With the new firmware and move to HDMI this appears to have completely resolved as well.


I'm also finding general handshake speed to have improved dramatically when switching inputs.


I am supremely happy to finally having this box working as I'd hoped it had day 1. I had developed hack-arounds to allow me to live with the above issues and not having to use them anymore puts a smile on my face.


-Ravi


----------



## Texas steve

Hope they use this "red card" in the new 50v?!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17048057
> 
> 
> Hope they use this "red card" in the new 50v?!



The AVM 50v has an entirely new video board. The same is true for the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Verbow* /forum/post/17047016
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, but unfortunately something else is going on. I unplugged the power cord for about 20 sec and restarted it. Same problem, but every few seconds the DTS-MA display would come on and the blue light on the left would lock. It would only flash on for half a second and then say "Digital" again, but the fact that it was happening means it's getting the right digital signal.
> 
> 
> I'll also add it's not limited to the lossless codecs - I put on a SD Starwars DVD and same issue - it said "digital" with flashes of the Dolby logo and Dolby light going on...
> 
> 
> Edit: Just walked out and it was locked to DTS-MA after watching a whole movie (and testing others) where it didn't. Maybe the power cycling helped - need to get to bed so will try more tests tomorrow - but definitely something buggy going on.



OK, the first step is to update your D2v to the "official" V2.07 firmware. This will eliminate any possibility that your current firmware install is corrupted, as well as making sure you aren't being tripped up by some bug that is already fixed.


The next step is to carefully check your HDMI connections. Since HDMI is an end to end protocol, problems on the input side could actually be due to a cable problem on the output to your display so check both side. Power everything off, get a flashlight, and take a careful look at the HDMI plugs and sockets looking for any signs of pin damage. Check both ends of each cable. If you find a damaged plug, discard that cable and re-check the socket it was plugged into. When you re-insert the HDMI plugs, keep in mind that they are only a friction fit, and that it only takes a little bit of shifting in the socket to make a marginal connection. So make sure they are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket, and that they are not being tugged or pushed in any direction -- as for example by the weight of the cable.


You mentioned that you just updated firmware in your Pioneer player. Did the problem in the D2v happen BEFORE you updated that firmware or is it possible the Pioneer firmware update is the cause? Do you have any other HDMI source devices you can use to check this?


In the original D2, the HDMI input function was handled by two chips that each handled two input sockets. Sockets 1 and 2 went to one chip, and sockets 3 and 4 went to another. I don't know how the work is divided up in the D2v, but it is likely there's a similar sort of thing going on. Which means trying a different socket would get you to a different chip. To figure out which socket to try, you'll have to give Anthem tech support a call. If you find things work correctly in one socket but not another (with the cable properly inserted both times), then you have a hardware problem in your D2v.

--Bob


----------



## rbastian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by */dev/null* /forum/post/17042584
> 
> 
> I just upgraded from the NAD T175(not the HD version) to the AVM50v. The only way the Anthem is leaving me, is when you physically pry it away from me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the longer answer... I bought the 175 a year and a half ago, and although I like the sound of it, it had issues. Loud popping on source changes and muting, problems syncing to 1080p60 on HDMI, and some discrepancies with what the advertising said it would have vs. what it would actually do. The 1080p60 problem was fixed within a short period of time by a pre-out and HDMI board replacement, and a DSP upgrade. It still popped and it still would not do HDMI audio over 96k sampling rate. The HD cards/version is supposed to take care of my problems, but is not covered by warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NAD uses a company called Lenbrook, to handle their customer service. The lead tech there,Bob Moran, is more than competent, but has his hands tied by NAD (engineering as well as advertising), and what he can and cannot do as warranty fixes. Now on the flip side of the NAD coin, I bought a 973 amp which basically ate itself upon power-up. (great circuit breaker tester...) I took it back, and NAD replaced the amp with a 975. No questions asked.
> 
> 
> Overall, IMO, Anthem seems to be... more responsible when it comes to taking care of their customers, fixing problems, and producing what the customer needs; not by making a product and selling the customer on it.
> 
> 
> Comparing the 175 and the 50v? It's comparing apples and apple pie. Both have sort of the same stuff, but one is a more complete, mature product. SQ-wise, I love the 50v. With multi-channel, the 175 presents 5-7 speakers playing back the source. The 50v gives you the full soundfield. The stereo imaging is also spot on. SACD and analog present a stereo image that far exceeds the physical speakers. I have had to check on a few occasions now, that I was actually in 2-ch mode, and that no sound was emanating from the rear speakers. Video? Don't even get me started. Not even the same playing field.
> 
> If you want more details on any of the above, toss me a PM...
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, that's enough from me... Anyone want this soapbox now?



Thanks, I appreciate your experience and advice!


----------



## Verbow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17048354
> 
> 
> OK, the first step is to update your D2v to the "official" V2.07 firmware. This will eliminate any possibility that your current firmware install is corrupted, as well as making sure you aren't being tripped up by some bug that is already fixed.
> 
> 
> The next step is to carefully check your HDMI connections. Since HDMI is an end to end protocol, problems on the input side could actually be due to a cable problem on the output to your display so check both side. Power everything off, get a flashlight, and take a careful look at the HDMI plugs and sockets looking for any signs of pin damage. Check both ends of each cable. If you find a damaged plug, discard that cable and re-check the socket it was plugged into. When you re-insert the HDMI plugs, keep in mind that they are only a friction fit, and that it only takes a little bit of shifting in the socket to make a marginal connection. So make sure they are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket, and that they are not being tugged or pushed in any direction -- as for example by the weight of the cable.
> 
> 
> You mentioned that you just updated firmware in your Pioneer player. Did the problem in the D2v happen BEFORE you updated that firmware or is it possible the Pioneer firmware update is the cause? Do you have any other HDMI source devices you can use to check this?
> 
> 
> In the original D2, the HDMI input function was handled by two chips that each handled two input sockets. Sockets 1 and 2 went to one chip, and sockets 3 and 4 went to another. I don't know how the work is divided up in the D2v, but it is likely there's a similar sort of thing going on. Which means trying a different socket would get you to a different chip. To figure out which socket to try, you'll have to give Anthem tech support a call. If you find things work correctly in one socket but not another (with the cable properly inserted both times), then you have a hardware problem in your D2v.
> 
> --Bob



Many thanks Bob - the update did the trick. As always, your advice is spot on. The problem started BEFORE I updated my BD player; I tend to update only if I run into a hitch. How the heck can firmware become corrupted?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Verbow* /forum/post/17048803
> 
> 
> Many thanks Bob - the update did the trick. As always, your advice is spot on. The problem started BEFORE I updated my BD player; I tend to update only if I run into a hitch. How the heck can firmware become corrupted?



Good! It's more likely your settings became corrupted and the install and reloading of settings fixed it. But it's hard to really know what went wrong.


Another possibility is that some unusual combination of signals caused the HDMI processor to get stuck in an unusual state.


If the problem happens again, be sure to contact Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## facke02

I have a digital source (Squeezebox) connected to my Dv2 that I would like to use outside via Zone 2. The manual says that Zone 2 and etc. only accept analog sources unless you copy from Main. I've got the copy to work.


First question is does Main always need to be on and does Main have to be on the source that I want in Zone 2?


Second question. can I have a digital and analog connection for AUX plugged in at the same time?


I've checked the first post for any tips and tricks on this, but couldn't locate anything. Is there a post that describes the Copy feature? The manual is somewhat lacking. I'm also a little surprised that a pre/pro of this caliber has this limitation.


Thanks for the assistance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/17049583
> 
> 
> I have a digital source (Squeezebox) connected to my Dv2 that I would like to use outside via Zone 2. The manual says that Zone 2 and etc. only accept analog sources unless you copy from Main. I've got the copy to work.
> 
> 
> First question is does Main always need to be on and does Main have to be on the source that I want in Zone 2?
> 
> 
> Second question. can I have a digital and analog connection for AUX plugged in at the same time?
> 
> 
> I've checked the first post for any tips and tricks on this, but couldn't locate anything. Is there a post that describes the Copy feature? The manual is somewhat lacking. I'm also a little surprised that a pre/pro of this caliber has this limitation.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the assistance.



First question: Yes. The only way to get analog output from a digital audio source is to process the digital audio. Only the Main path processes the digital audio. The Zone 2 path is an "analog pass-through" path. That's why you need to Copy from Main to Zone 2 when you want to do this. So yes, the Main path has to be on, and with that input source selected. NOTE: It is possible to set Zone 2 so that it's Source selection automatically tracks what you select for Main. Thus you would always make your Source selection using Main, and the analog audio output would also be available on the Zone 2 output.


Second Question: Yes, you can have both digital and analog audio input settings for any given Source and use BOTH on the Main path. The trick is to use Setup > Source Setup > Auto Dig ON for that Source. With Auto Dig ON, the specified digital input is used whenever a signal is detected on it. Otherwise the specified analog input is used. See Section 3.6 of the Manual.


Note that when using Auto Dig, the Analog input is ALWAYS "Analog-DSP" -- i.e., "processed" analog audio. "Analog-Direct" pass-through is not available.


ETA: Note that if the Source generates both digital and analog audio simultaneously, and you just want to use the analog version of the input for pass-through to Zone 2, then you don't have to use Auto Dig. For Audio In on the Main path just specify the digital audio source you want to use. Leave Auto Dig OFF. Also specify the Analog input you want associated with this Source. It won't be used for the Main path. But when Zone 2 has this Source selected and audio is NOT being copied from Main, the specified Analog input (unprocessed pass-through) will always be used -- and thus Main can be powered off.


Copying the processed Audio from Main can be set to happen all the time (see Setup > Source Setup in Manual section 3.6) or just now and again -- manually selected via the remote. See Manual section 4.3.


Also keep in mind that with both Main and Zone 2 paths turned on, you have separate volume control for the two of them.

--Bob


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17048057
> 
> 
> Hope they use this "red card" in the new 50v?!



Sorry if I caused any confusion here, but nope. This is just the updated version of the old video card (not as what they're including in the v-version now) which is required for the experimental firmware. With the old 1.33 firmware I had crazy problems as described, even with this updated board.


My comment was directed more at the firmware which finally addresses the issues I've been having for the last several years.


When I first flagged my issues to Anthem, Nick said he didn't know when they'd be addressed, but that they were on the list of things to fix. Looks like he wasn't lying.


It took a while, but I'm happy with the results. Outside of Oppo, I'm not aware of any other player in this industry that seems to take the correction of issues like these seriously.


-Ravi


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17049801
> 
> 
> First question: Yes. The only way to get analog output from a digital audio source is to process the digital audio. Only the Main path processes the digital audio. The Zone 2 path is an "analog pass-through" path. That's why you need to Copy from Main to Zone 2 when you want to do this. So yes, the Main path has to be on, and with that input source selected. NOTE: It is possible to set Zone 2 so that it's Source selection automatically tracks what you select for Main. Thus you would always make your Source selection using Main, and the analog audio output would also be available on the Zone 2 output.
> 
> 
> Second Question: Yes, you can have both digital and analog audio input settings for any given Source. The trick is to use Setup > Source Setup > Auto Dig ON for that Source. With Auto Dig ON, the specified digital input is used whenever a signal is detected on it. Otherwise the specified analog input is used. See Section 3.6 of the Manual.
> 
> 
> Note that when using Auto Dig, the Analog input is ALWAYS "Analog-DSP" -- i.e., "processed" analog audio. "Analog-Direct" pass-through is not available.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob... Sounds like I need to hook up a pair of stereo interconnects to my device for use with Zone 2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/17049896
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob... Sounds like I need to hook up a pair of stereo interconnects to my device for use with Zone 2.



I just added some additional explanation to that post. You might find it helpful to go back up and re-read it.

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17049943
> 
> 
> I just added some additional explanation to that post. You might find it helpful to go back up and re-read it.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks... This is exactly what I want, my music server sent to zone 2 while main is off or on TV.


I've read section 3.6 in the manual and have tried it, but it doesn't fit my needs most of the time. I prefer doing it manual.


I did discover that one of my Anthem remotes doesn't do volume on zone 2, where the other one works fine. I've sent an email to support about a fix or replacement.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/17049882
> 
> 
> Sorry if I caused any confusion here, but nope. This is just the updated version of the old video card (not as what they're including in the v-version now) which is required for the experimental firmware. With the old 1.33 firmware I had crazy problems as described, even with this updated board.
> 
> 
> My comment was directed more at the firmware which finally addresses the issues I've been having for the last several years.
> 
> 
> When I first flagged my issues to Anthem, Nick said he didn't know when they'd be addressed, but that they were on the list of things to fix. Looks like he wasn't lying.
> 
> 
> It took a while, but I'm happy with the results. Outside of Oppo, I'm not aware of any other player in this industry that seems to take the correction of issues like these seriously.
> 
> 
> -Ravi



The new HDMI code for the older Anthems (found in "test" firmware V1.47f) was originally developed for the newer Anthems. It is found in "test" firmware V2.07f for those.


However, to speed development/testing on the older Anthems, the port of this code has initially been done only to newer production run hardware in those older models -- which covers about 2/3 of the units in customer hands according to Nick at Anthem.


You should *NOT* install "test" firmware V1.47f on a D2 or AVM 50 unless you know your hardware is of that newer configuration.

*HOW CAN YOU TELL IF YOUR ORIGINAL D2 OR AVM 50 IS OK FOR THIS?*


If you can see through the top vents that your video board is colored red (it is the top board, closest to the vents), then you know you have the newer configuration. *OR*


If you can see through the top vents that the power supply does *NOT* have the big toroidal (donut-shaped) transformer, then you also know you have the newer configuration. In either case, you can, if you wish, install "test" firmware V1.47f.


Now, if your video board is gray or green AND your power supply has the toroidal transformer, you *MAY* have the newer configuration. However, there's no easy way for you to tell. So play it safe and do *NOT* install "test" V1.47f in that case. Wait for Anthem to finish the port of the new code to all configurations of the older processors.


-----------------------------------------------


"Test" firmware V2.07f for the new D2v and AMV 50v units comes with an even scarier warning. If the install fails while programming the video board, there may be no recourse but to send your unit back to the factory for special, corrective programming. And so, do *NOT* install "test" firmware V2.07f on ANY D2v or AVM 50v unless (1) you are confident in the functioning of your serial connection -- e.g., you've already done several successful firmware installs -- and (2) you are OK with the potential risk here.


-----------------------------------------------


As always, "test" firmware is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises. However, so far, we've had no posts here of folks finding any new nasties in "test" V1.47f or "test" V2.07f, and we HAVE had posts of bug fix improvements in those "test" versions.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/17049992
> 
> 
> I did discover that one of my Anthem remotes doesn't do volume on zone 2, where the other one works fine. I've sent an email to support about a fix or replacement.



The Anthem remote is actually a kind of complicated little gadget.


And it even has its own Reset procedure!


The Anthem is kind of like 4 different devices in one chassis (Main, Zone 2, Zone 3, and for some operations REC), and the Remote can be set to operate other devices as well.


First make sure you don't have "Volume Lock" engaged on the remote that's not working. Volume Lock makes the remote send Volume commands to the Main path even when you have told the remote to control some other device (such as TV, or Zone 2). To reset Volume Lock for Zone 2 so that Volume commands will actually be sent to Zone 2, follow the procedure in Manual section 5.4.


If that doesn't do it, then Reset the remote.


To get back to "like new" state, first put in fresh batteries. Then follow the procedure starting with Section 5.6 of the Manual:


First enter the Reset code given there to erase the Learning memory.


Then enter the 5 digit code(s) shown at the start of Appendix B to Reset the operation for any faulty Zones in the Anthem remote. I.e., tell it you want Zone 2 in the remote to reload the Zone 2 command set.


All of this stuff is happening entirely inside the Remote. You don't even need to be in the same room with the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17050017
> 
> 
> *HOW CAN YOU TELL IF YOUR ORIGINAL D2 OR AVM 50 IS OK FOR THIS?*
> 
> 
> Now, if your video board is gray or green AND your power supply has the toroidal transformer, you *MAY* have the newer configuration. However, there's no easy way for you to tell. So play it safe and do *NOT* install "test" V1.47f in that case. Wait for Anthem to finish the port of the new code to all configurations of the older processors.
> 
> 
> --Bob




Bob


My D2 was updated with the red board when the original board died but my power supply has the toroidal transformer.


Do I have the new confiuration ?


Stew


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17051520
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> My D2 was updated with the red board when the original board died but my power supply has the toroidal transformer.
> 
> 
> Do I have the new confiuration ?
> 
> 
> Stew



Yep. If they gave you a red video board as replacement, you are good to go.

--Bob


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> Quote:
> 
> Originally Posted by Verbow
> 
> Thanks Bob, but unfortunately something else is going on. I unplugged the power cord for about 20 sec and restarted it. Same problem, but every few seconds the DTS-MA display would come on and the blue light on the left would lock. It would only flash on for half a second and then say "Digital" again, but the fact that it was happening means it's getting the right digital signal.
> 
> 
> I'll also add it's not limited to the lossless codecs - I put on a SD Starwars DVD and same issue - it said "digital" with flashes of the Dolby logo and Dolby light going on...
> 
> 
> Edit: Just walked out and it was locked to DTS-MA after watching a whole movie (and testing others) where it didn't. Maybe the power cycling helped - need to get to bed so will try more tests tomorrow - but definitely something buggy going on.
> 
> 
> OK, the first step is to update your D2v to the "official" V2.07 firmware. This will eliminate any possibility that your current firmware install is corrupted, as well as making sure you aren't being tripped up by some bug that is already fixed.
> 
> 
> The next step is to carefully check your HDMI connections. Since HDMI is an end to end protocol, problems on the input side could actually be due to a cable problem on the output to your display so check both side. Power everything off, get a flashlight, and take a careful look at the HDMI plugs and sockets looking for any signs of pin damage. Check both ends of each cable. If you find a damaged plug, discard that cable and re-check the socket it was plugged into. When you re-insert the HDMI plugs, keep in mind that they are only a friction fit, and that it only takes a little bit of shifting in the socket to make a marginal connection. So make sure they are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket, and that they are not being tugged or pushed in any direction -- as for example by the weight of the cable.
> 
> 
> You mentioned that you just updated firmware in your Pioneer player. Did the problem in the D2v happen BEFORE you updated that firmware or is it possible the Pioneer firmware update is the cause? Do you have any other HDMI source devices you can use to check this?
> 
> 
> In the original D2, the HDMI input function was handled by two chips that each handled two input sockets. Sockets 1 and 2 went to one chip, and sockets 3 and 4 went to another. I don't know how the work is divided up in the D2v, but it is likely there's a similar sort of thing going on. Which means trying a different socket would get you to a different chip. To figure out which socket to try, you'll have to give Anthem tech support a call. If you find things work correctly in one socket but not another (with the cable properly inserted both times), then you have a hardware problem in your D2v.
> 
> --Bob



In case you wonder how the d2v looks on the inside, here is some pictures, after I in collaboration with Anthem (Piero) corrected a slight misaligned mezzanine board for the HDMI ouptput.


erikno


----------



## erikno

Another question.


As part of my temporary fix for not having HDMI problems by losing audio on my d2v, when firing up the whole system, I just leave it on all the time. That seems to function quite well. The procedure to get it online if it audio loss do happen, is a no-go in the my family who likes things to happen when they push the button...


This constant power on, will it harm the d2v, or is it just a power consumption issue?


erikno


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17050485
> 
> 
> The Anthem remote is actually a kind of complicated little gadget.
> 
> 
> And it even has its own Reset procedure!
> 
> 
> The Anthem is kind of like 4 different devices in one chassis (Main, Zone 2, Zone 3, and for some operations REC), and the Remote can be set to operate other devices as well.
> 
> 
> First make sure you don't have "Volume Lock" engaged on the remote that's not working. Volume Lock makes the remote send Volume commands to the Main path even when you have told the remote to control some other device (such as TV, or Zone 2). To reset Volume Lock for Zone 2 so that Volume commands will actually be sent to Zone 2, follow the procedure in Manual section 5.4.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't do it, then Reset the remote.
> 
> 
> To get back to "like new" state, first put in fresh batteries. Then follow the procedure starting with Section 5.6 of the Manual:
> 
> 
> First enter the Reset code given there to erase the Learning memory.
> 
> 
> Then enter the 5 digit code(s) shown at the start of Appendix B to Reset the operation for any faulty Zones in the Anthem remote. I.e., tell it you want Zone 2 in the remote to reload the Zone 2 command set.
> 
> 
> All of this stuff is happening entirely inside the Remote. You don't even need to be in the same room with the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



I'll give this a try tonight and report back on the out come. Thanks for all the help...


----------



## Orup70

I'm considering to upgrade my system with an Anthem D2v and Anthem P5. After an upgrade, my weak link in the system will be the speakers and especially the center and rear speakers.


Today I have a Tag McLaren AV32R processor, a Tag McLaren DVD32R cd/dvd player and a Tag McLaren 100xR power amplifier. The front speakers are Mirage OM-5 with an active 250W bass amplifier (built-in subwoofer) which sounds quite good (cost approx. $5100 in 2001) and the center is a Mirage OM-C2 (cost approx. $950 in 2001).


I would like to upgrade my speakers at the same time as the Anthem D2v/P5 but I don't have the budget (or space in my flat). My thought is that maybe an interim update to a better center speaker would be a good choice.


BUT, the mantra I keep hearing when reading about center speakers is that they need to be from the same manufacturer and from the same series to be "tonal matched" to the mains. My questions is: is this really true (in all cases) or just a best recommendation? And if it's crucial, would the ARC in the Anthem D2v make any difference? Like artificially matching the tonal quality somehow?


Mirage doesn't make any matching center speaker to my mains any more and the one they have for the newer ranges doesn't fit under my TV (need to be maximum 20 - 23 cm or 8 - 9 inches high).


Any recommendations?


/ Påhl


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17049943
> 
> 
> I just added some additional explanation to that post. You might find it helpful to go back up and re-read it.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


According to section 4.2 of the D2 manual, I believe that you can use digital out on the two REC coaxial outputs, however I believe that it will only downmix if you do "copy from main" and if you do not do "copy from main" there will be no volume control as it is probably just a digital signal pass through without any processing.


Can you confirm that this is correct.


Thanks in advance


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17051924
> 
> 
> Another question.
> 
> 
> As part of my temporary fix for not having HDMI problems by losing audio on my d2v, when firing up the whole system, I just leave it on all the time. That seems to function quite well. The procedure to get it online if it audio loss do happen, is a no-go in the my family who likes things to happen when they push the button...
> 
> 
> This constant power on, will it harm the d2v, or is it just a power consumption issue?
> 
> 
> erikno



It is just a power consumption issue.


If you have power glitches in your area, a battery backup would help make sure the processor rides through those as well. I use one made by APC that's sold for use with computers.


If you have your power amps triggered from the D2v, you can change the triggers table to have them on according to which input you have selected in the D2v instead of simply whether or not the D2v itself is on. Have all used inputs leave them on. Then set aside one unused input which has the amps turn off. Switch to that unused input as part of your "shutdown" procedure and the amps will turn off.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/17052425
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> According to section 4.2 of the D2 manual, I believe that you can use digital out on the two REC coaxial outputs, however I believe that it will only downmix if you do "copy from main" and if you do not do "copy from main" there will be no volume control as it is probably just a digital signal pass through without any processing.
> 
> 
> Can you confirm that this is correct.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> Mike



Copying from Main will yield processed audio output on REC, so yes it is down-mixed to 2.0 LPCM (the same as goes out on the HDMI cable to your Main display). The only way to get the down-mix on REC is to copy from Main.


However the digital outputs of any digital input are fixed volume, I believe, even when you copy from Main.


If the input is analog, and you copy from Main to get it converted to 2.0 LPCM for the digital REC outputs, you can adjust the fixed level by adjusting the analog audio input trims in the setup menu. There is no "Volume" control on the REC outputs otherwise.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Orup70* /forum/post/17052364
> 
> 
> I'm considering to upgrade my system with an Anthem D2v and Anthem P5. After an upgrade, my weak link in the system will be the speakers and especially the center and rear speakers.
> 
> 
> Today I have a Tag McLaren AV32R processor, a Tag McLaren DVD32R cd/dvd player and a Tag McLaren 100xR power amplifier. The front speakers are Mirage OM-5 with an active 250W bass amplifier (built-in subwoofer) which sounds quite good (cost approx. $5100 in 2001) and the center is a Mirage OM-C2 (cost approx. $950 in 2001).
> 
> 
> I would like to upgrade my speakers at the same time as the Anthem D2v/P5 but I don't have the budget (or space in my flat). My thought is that maybe an interim update to a better center speaker would be a good choice.
> 
> 
> BUT, the mantra I keep hearing when reading about center speakers is that they need to be from the same manufacturer and from the same series to be "tonal matched" to the mains. My questions is: is this really true (in all cases) or just a best recommendation? And if it's crucial, would the ARC in the Anthem D2v make any difference? Like artificially matching the tonal quality somehow?
> 
> 
> Mirage doesn't make any matching center speaker to my mains any more and the one they have for the newer ranges doesn't fit under my TV (need to be maximum 20 - 23 cm or 8 - 9 inches high).
> 
> 
> Any recommendations?
> 
> 
> / Påhl



ARC will go a long way towards matching speakers, but if the speaker responses are too different you will still hear it. Speakers are complicated beasties, with many characteristics beyond just their frequency response. For example, how they disperse sound at different angles and how they respond to transients (rapid changes) in the audio.


It is still best, when setting up a surround system, to get speakers that are tonally matched. But practically speaking, I think you'll be surprised how far ARC can go to help fix some of the differences here.

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17050485
> 
> 
> The Anthem remote is actually a kind of complicated little gadget.
> 
> 
> And it even has its own Reset procedure!
> 
> 
> The Anthem is kind of like 4 different devices in one chassis (Main, Zone 2, Zone 3, and for some operations REC), and the Remote can be set to operate other devices as well.
> 
> 
> First make sure you don't have "Volume Lock" engaged on the remote that's not working. Volume Lock makes the remote send Volume commands to the Main path even when you have told the remote to control some other device (such as TV, or Zone 2). To reset Volume Lock for Zone 2 so that Volume commands will actually be sent to Zone 2, follow the procedure in Manual section 5.4.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't do it, then Reset the remote.
> 
> 
> To get back to "like new" state, first put in fresh batteries. Then follow the procedure starting with Section 5.6 of the Manual:
> 
> 
> First enter the Reset code given there to erase the Learning memory.
> 
> 
> Then enter the 5 digit code(s) shown at the start of Appendix B to Reset the operation for any faulty Zones in the Anthem remote. I.e., tell it you want Zone 2 in the remote to reload the Zone 2 command set.
> 
> 
> All of this stuff is happening entirely inside the Remote. You don't even need to be in the same room with the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Volume lock was the issue... Did a reset and all is well.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Glad to hear it!

--Bob


----------



## hantman

I just moved into a new place with 13 foot ceilings and wood floors. Ran ARC again on my [now old but still beloved] AVM-50 and was curious for some (i.e. Bob's) opinions on how it looks - fixed a lot of the booming and echo problems but wondering if there is more to be done to make it perfect. Any thoughts?


Thanks!


----------



## muad'dib

Not sure if this has been answered before..










How do you turn OFF the deep colour on the D2V to the display?


I ask because, on my one hdmi cable (not 1.3 spec), I get the 1080p/60 just fine on the projector, but has little white specs in picture. Projector says its getting 12bit deep colour.


So,


I tried from the source direct (oppo) blu-ray, and turned OFF deep colour, and the specs were now gone..


This seems correct to me as the cable can't handle the extra info..


Thanks..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

To the best of my knowledge there is no setting in the D2v which will force it to not use a Deep Color connection if the display says it will accept that.


------------------------------


First of all, you are definitely on the right track. This is a signal problem (the white specks or "sparklies" are a classic symptom), and most likely a cable problem. The way to be sure is to bring the Oppo over close to the projector and hook it up with a normal length (5 to 10 feet) of good quality, 1080p high speed HDMI cable. If you can run 36 bit Deep Color video (12 bits per component) through that shorter cable without sparklies, then it is highly likely the problem is your cable to the projector. You could test that with the D2v as well of course, but it's probably a lot easier to move the Oppo.


The best solution is to upgrade that cable.


If you are using wall plates or other adapters on that HDMI feed, you may find that the wall plate or adapter is the cause of your problems.


-------------------------------------


Until you can do that, you may find there is a setting in the projector that disables Deep Color input. If so, the projector will tell the D2v it doesn't want Deep Color and the D2v will send normal, 24 bit video.


Alternatively, you could send 720p or 1080i to the projector until you can replace the cable. If the projector accepts 1080p/24, then you can use that for Blu-Ray movies. 1080p/24 is actually less bandwidth than 1080i/60 (=1080p/30).


----------------------------------------


Finally, I think you should email Anthem tech support and ask that Deep Color output control (and input control for that matter) be added to the firmware for just such situations as yours.


I've already suggested it to them, but I don't know where it is in their priority list.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hantman* /forum/post/17057575
> 
> 
> I just moved into a new place with 13 foot ceilings and wood floors. Ran ARC again on my [now old but still beloved] AVM-50 and was curious for some (i.e. Bob's) opinions on how it looks - fixed a lot of the booming and echo problems but wondering if there is more to be done to make it perfect. Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



You look in pretty good shape to me. The one thing you should do, however, is try raising the Max EQ Frequency target so that ARC knows it is OK to apply correction above the default limit of 5KHz. Your Measured curves are I think, borderline for whether you can raise it all the way up to 20KHz without problems. But try that first.


What you are looking for is whether this results in more wobbles in the green Calculated curve at the lower frequencies. If so, back off Max EQ Frequency and see if you can find a nice compromise setting that improves the high frequency results without causing significant problems (more than a dB or 2) at the lower frequencies.


You do this by opening your ARC results file in ARC's Advanced mode. Then bring up the Targets window. Raise the Max EQ Frequency parameter, accept that change, which will also dismiss the Targets window, and do a Calculation. When you get a result you like, do an Upload and give it a listen.


If you have a separate Music configuration there's a separate setting for its Max EQ Frequency Target. In the View menu you can select to view the Music charts.


Since you don't have to re-Measure to do any of this, you can run through a whole bunch of trial settings in almost no time until you get one that looks good to you.


Trust your ears on the final result. If it sounds good to you, then it IS good.


-------------------------------------------


Now I take it you have no Center speaker. You might want to consider adding one if you can get a nice one. Movie sound tracks put a lot of emphasis on the Center. Almost all dialog goes there. Now of course your AVM 50 is steering Center channel content to LF and RF so you aren't losing anything, but still, a nice Center speaker will fill things in a little better.

--Bob


----------



## Orup70




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17052775
> 
> 
> ARC will go a long way towards matching speakers, but if the speaker responses are too different you will still hear it. Speakers are complicated beasties, with many characteristics beyond just their frequency response. For example, how they disperse sound at different angles and how they respond to transients (rapid changes) in the audio.
> 
> 
> It is still best, when setting up a surround system, to get speakers that are tonally matched. But practically speaking, I think you'll be surprised how far ARC can go to help fix some of the differences here.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob! I guess it's a no then, considering that the Mirage speakers are omnipolar and have a quite unique sound.


Maybe I can borrow a center speaker from my dealer when I get the Anthems up and running to check it out first.


The Bowers & Wilkins will have to wait...










/ Påhl


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17052775
> 
> 
> ARC will go a long way towards matching speakers, but if the speaker responses are too different you will still hear it. Speakers are complicated beasties, with many characteristics beyond just their frequency response. For example, how they disperse sound at different angles and how they respond to transients (rapid changes) in the audio.
> 
> 
> It is still best, when setting up a surround system, to get speakers that are tonally matched. But practically speaking, I think you'll be surprised how far ARC can go to help fix some of the differences here.
> 
> --Bob



Same for amplifier I am using a mix of tube amp for front and the surround with normal amp.


ARC to its best at matching this but this is a huge task.


----------



## hantman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17058216
> 
> 
> You look in pretty good shape to me. The one thing you should do, however, is try raising the Max EQ Frequency target so that ARC knows it is OK to apply correction above the default limit of 5KHz. Your Measured curves are I think, borderline for whether you can raise it all the way up to 20KHz without problems. But try that first.
> 
> 
> What you are looking for is whether this results in more wobbles in the green Calculated curve at the lower frequencies. If so, back off Max EQ Frequency and see if you can find a nice compromise setting that improves the high frequency results without causing significant problems (more than a dB or 2) at the lower frequencies.
> 
> 
> You do this by opening your ARC results file in ARC's Advanced mode. Then bring up the Targets window. Raise the Max EQ Frequency parameter, accept that change, which will also dismiss the Targets window, and do a Calculation. When you get a result you like, do an Upload and give it a listen.
> 
> 
> If you have a separate Music configuration there's a separate setting for its Max EQ Frequency Target. In the View menu you can select to view the Music charts.
> 
> 
> Since you don't have to re-Measure to do any of this, you can run through a whole bunch of trial settings in almost no time until you get one that looks good to you.
> 
> 
> Trust your ears on the final result. If it sounds good to you, then it IS good.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now I take it you have no Center speaker. You might want to consider adding one if you can get a nice one. Movie sound tracks put a lot of emphasis on the Center. Almost all dialog goes there. Now of course your AVM 50 is steering Center channel content to LF and RF so you aren't losing anything, but still, a nice Center speaker will fill things in a little better.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob, as usual you are awesome! I fiddled as suggested and settled on the full 20, results attached. Looks better to me, hope it does to you as well. I own a good center speaker, but my current configuration leaves no place for it physically so I am making due.


One question, my fronts seem to start significantly lower than the targets, any way to fix that? What will this do to the sound?


Thanks again for the quick, thoughtful and dead-on help!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hantman* /forum/post/17059826
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob, as usual you are awesome! I fiddled as suggested and settled on the full 20, results attached. Looks better to me, hope it does to you as well. I own a good center speaker, but my current configuration leaves no place for it physically so I am making due.
> 
> 
> One question, my fronts seem to start significantly lower than the targets, any way to fix that? What will this do to the sound?
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the quick, thoughtful and dead-on help!



You are fine as is. What you have now should sound very good indeed.


The Red curves are the uncorrected Measurements for your speakers (an unweighted average across all the mic positions). Based on the full set of Measured data, ARC designs a solution represented by the Dashed Black line for each speaker -- the Targets curve. ARC models the solution mathematically, according to the resources available in the Anthem to do the work, and the result of that is represented by the Green curve -- the Calculated results. So long as the Green curve is sufficiently close to the dashed line Target curve for each speaker you are in good shape.


In your case, you have an excellent subwoofer and ARC is taking advantage of that. So it is deliberately rolling off your fronts, even though they are pretty capable themselves in bass, and letting the subwoofer carry the load down there. That is, bass will be steered to the sub from the main speaker channels and mixed with the LFE content already destined for the sub.


Among other things, this means ARC only has to correct for room bass response issues from one source of bass coupling to the room (the sub) instead of multiple speakers at different locations (meaning different coupling) -- which should yield a cleaner result in terms of what you actually hear.


----------------------------------------------


To finish off, remember that you, yourself have to enter the correct speaker distances (Setup > Listener Position). You also have to check and adjust Polarity/Phase for your sub (Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie and Music). Since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time, these adjustments don't affect the ARC results. That is, you won't have to re-Measure if you make any changes in these. The ARC results will just sound better when you get these settings correct.


And of course make sure you've got Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON for each source to enable the ARC processing for each source.


See the Setup post links in the first post of this thread for some info on how Phase adjustment works.


And once you've got ARC Uploaded and your manual entries correct, make sure you Save User and/or Installer Settings so you don't accidentally wipe out these settings later by reloading from those memories.

--Bob


----------



## NOCAL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17059934
> 
> 
> To finish off, remember that you, yourself have to enter the correct speaker distances (Setup > Listener Position). You also have to check and adjust Polarity/Phase for your sub (Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie and Music). Since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time, these adjustments don't affect the ARC results. That is, you won't have to re-Measure if you make any changes in these. The ARC results will just sound better when you get these settings correct.
> 
> 
> And of course make sure you've got Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON for each source to enable the ARC processing for each source.
> 
> 
> See the Setup post links in the first post of this thread for some info on how Phase adjustment works.
> 
> 
> And once you've got ARC Uploaded and your manual entries correct, make sure you Save User and/or Installer Settings so you don't accidentally wipe out these settings later by reloading from those memories.
> 
> --Bob



This is very helpful Indeed! I thought I was stuck with the ARC either on or off. Since different sources don't perform the same. This will help immensely. I originally thought I could only alter the Bass and Treble settings on the remote.

Thanks for this tidbit


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


It has been sometime since I partcipated in threads in this forum. I loved my AVM50 when I had it but outgrew it. Well I am coming back and have ordered the AVM50v. I look forward to returning to its sweet sound, superlative video processing and ultimate flexibility. Lossless sound and ARC are icing on the cake.


Two quick questions, is there any issue with applying Pro logic IIx to lossless Dolby TrueHD/DTS HD soundtracks with the Anthems? Also has there been any problems with bitstreaming theses same signals from compatible Blu-ray players such as the Oppo or Panasonics?


Thanks in advance..











Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17061016
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> It has been sometime since I partcipated in threads in this forum. I loved my AVM50 when I had it but outgrew it. Well I am coming back and have ordered the AVM50v. I look forward to returning to its sweet sound, superlative video processing and ultimate flexibility. Lossless sound and ARC are icing on the cake.
> 
> 
> Two quick questions, is there any issue with applying Pro logic IIx to lossless Dolby TrueHD/DTS HD soundtracks with the Anthems? Also has there been any problems with bitstreaming theses same signals from compatible Blu-ray players such as the Oppo or Panasonics?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Two quick answers: No issues. No problems.


As with all things Blu-Ray, individual disc titles may trigger rare problems.

--Bob


----------



## sfm

So I'm having an issue with my AVM50 (1.33, no arc yet). I have my HTPC (Radeon 4870 video card, Creative X-Fi Extreme Gamer) hooked up using the 6 channel input and optical. My speaker setup is only a 3.1. When using AnalogDSP on the 6ch input, the rear surrounds are presented strangely... instead of the right rear sent through the right front, left rear through the left front (as the manual claims it will) it seems as if the surround channel whether sourced from the left or right surround from the HTPC is always sent through both front and left (with an obvious bias to the right front). This makes games and movies with surround sound very strange (a strong right bias to the presentation) when listening using the AnalogDSP input.


I enabled DTS encoding on the sound card and when I test this with the optical from the card it is as expected: left surround through left front and right surround through right front and the same movies and games sound fine.


I moved the HTPC to an older Denon with 6ch input and a 3.1 setup and it is presented as expected (left surround through left front, right surround through right front).


Any ideas as to what setup I may have wrong? Would reloading 1.33 (or the 1.47 beta) help this? Perhaps a hardware issue with my AVM50?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/17061579
> 
> 
> So I'm having an issue with my AVM50 (1.33, no arc yet). I have my HTPC (Radeon 4870 video card, Creative X-Fi Extreme Gamer) hooked up using the 6 channel input and optical. My speaker setup is only a 3.1. When using AnalogDSP on the 6ch input, the rear surrounds are presented strangely... instead of the right rear sent through the right front, left rear through the left front (as the manual claims it will) it seems as if the surround channel whether sourced from the left or right surround from the HTPC is always sent through both front and left (with an obvious bias to the right front). This makes games and movies with surround sound very strange (a strong right bias to the presentation) when listening using the AnalogDSP input.
> 
> 
> I enabled DTS encoding on the sound card and when I test this with the optical from the card it is as expected: left surround through left front and right surround through right front and the same movies and games sound fine.
> 
> 
> I moved the HTPC to an older Denon with 6ch input and a 3.1 setup and it is presented as expected (left surround through left front, right surround through right front).
> 
> 
> Any ideas as to what setup I may have wrong? Would reloading 1.33 (or the 1.47 beta) help this? Perhaps a hardware issue with my AVM50?



Let's do some basic diagnosis on this:


First understand that in a 5.1 system, the surround speakers are "Side" speakers -- no matter how far back they might actually be placed. You only have "Rear" speakers in a 6.1 or 7.1 system.


So if the multi-channel analog output of your HTPC happens to have 7.1 output sockets, make sure you are using the "Side" outputs and not the "Rear" outputs to connect to the 5.1 analog input of the Anthem. In such case, also tell your HTPC that you have a 5.1 speaker system so it does the down-mix to 5.1 for output.


[While you are at it, make sure you don't have your *HTPC* set to down-mix to 3.1 speakers. It should be sending audio the Anthem just as if you have 5.1 speakers.]


---------------------------------


Next make sure the "temporary" audio setting adjustments you can make with the Remote are not screwing things up. To clear all of those at once do this:


1) In the Setup menu, Save User Settings.

2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue using the Front Panel display.

3) Reload Saved User Settings.


Since the "temporary" audio settings are not saved, this restores all of them to normal (factory default).


[With any luck it will turn out that you just managed to accidentally change the "temporary" Surround speaker output Balance to be applied when using the 6-Channel input -- see Section 4.7 of the Manual.]


---------------------------------


Next go into Setup > Source Setup > 6-Ch and make sure you are using the Bass Management (i.e., speaker) configuration you thought you were using for the 6-Channel input -- either Movie or Music. Let's assume you are using Movie.


Now go into Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie and verify that you have both Sides and Rears set to NONE -- i.e., that you really do have a 3.1 speaker configuration specified.


Now go into Setup > ADC / Audio Output and confirm that 6-ch Reverse S/R is set to NO, that Copy Sur to Rear is set to NO, and that 6-ch Anlg DSP is set to 96KHz -- i.e., the factory defaults for these. See Section 3.9 in the Manual.


Finally double check your wiring for the multi-channel analog input and the speaker outputs to confirm you are using the jacks you thought you were using. There are a lot of jacks back there, so it is worth a look just to be sure.


--------------------------------


Now play your test audio from the HTPC and see if the problem still exists. Press the THX button once and make sure THX is OFF. Press THX a second time and make sure THX re-equalization is OFF. (Use Up/Down Arrow if you need to toggle either to OFF.) Press Mode once and it should show NONE as the mode since you are using a 5.1 input and don't have more than 5.1 speakers configured. Press Select several times and confirm that the 6-Channel input is in use and that your 3.1 speakers are the only ones active for output.


If still no obvious solution, then do the following steps, in order, to be sure the fault is really in the Anthem:


1) At the back of the Anthem, swap the LF and RF speaker output plugs. If the problem does NOT move to the other speaker then the problem is something AFTER the Anthem -- e.g., amp or speaker or output cable problem. If the problem moves to the other speaker then put those two plugs back in their normal sockets and go to the next step.


2) At the back of the Anthem, swap the Left Surround and Right Surround input plugs for the 6-Channel analog input, and check to see whether the faulty audio remains in the same speaker of LF/RF or moves to the other speaker. If the problem moves then the fault is in something BEFORE the Anthem -- the input cables or your HTPC output or settings. If the problem STAYS in the same speaker then you have a hardware or firmware problem in your Anthem, and you should put those input plugs back into their proper sockets and go to the next step.


3) Re-install the V1.33 firmware in your Anthem. Do this just like you were doing it for the first time: Make sure you have no powered HDMI connections during the install. Reload Factory Defaults prior to the install (use Save User Settings and then later Reload User Settings to restore your personal settings). If the problem still exists after this, then go on to the next step.


4) Finally, let's make sure you don't have some sort of corruption in your saved settings. To do this, you will need to Reload Factory Defaults and then manually re-enter just the bare minimum settings to enable the 6-channel input and your 3.1 speaker output. If the problem no longer exists, continue with manual re-entry of the rest of your settings.


Otherwise call Anthem tech support for hardware service. You have a hardware problem in your 6-Channel analog input.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17061310
> 
> 
> Two quick answers: No issues. No problems.
> 
> 
> As with all things Blu-Ray, individual disc titles may trigger rare problems.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


As I figured...


Thanks Bob.



Regards,


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Ok guys (Bob)!


I need you to kick me in the pants! I need you to tell me how nuts I am.


As some of you may know I'm the guy that's been blabbering on for the last six months about this half off coupon I have to exchange my D2 for the D2v. I got my D2 at a ridiculously low price and now I'm sitting on the same kind of deal for the D2v. Upgrade/exchange for 2k!


The problem is you guys have freaked me out. My D2 is the nuts! I plugged it in, set it up, ran Arc and it's been golden since. I love it! It does everything I need it to do! I'm really scared I'll drop 2k and open a can of worms. I've been reading about issue after issue with the D2v since it launched.


I admit I was way late to the game when I got the D2. Did it have all kinds of issues in its first 10 months? Have 2v bugs been bad or are they par for the course and nothing to worry about.


Would I be bat [email protected] crazy to pass on the 50% upgrade offer I have????

HELP!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/17062143
> 
> 
> Ok guys (Bob)!
> 
> 
> I need you to kick me in the pants! I need you to tell me how nuts I am.
> 
> 
> As some of you may know I'm the guy that's been blabbering on for the last six months about this half off coupon I have to exchange my D2 for the D2v. I got my D2 at a ridiculously low price and now I'm sitting on the same kind of deal for the D2v. Upgrade/exchange for 2k!
> 
> 
> The problem is you guys have freaked me out. My D2 is the nuts! I plugged it in, set it up, ran Arc and it's been golden since. I love it! It does everything I need it to do! I'm really scared I'll drop 2k and open a can of worms. I've been reading about issue after issue with the D2v since it launched.
> 
> 
> I admit I was way late to the game when I got the D2. Did it have all kinds of issues in its first 10 months? Have 2v bugs been bad or are they par for the course and nothing to worry about.
> 
> 
> Would I be bat [email protected] crazy to pass on the 50% upgrade offer I have????
> 
> HELP!



The problems during the first year the D2 was out were, in my opinion, much worse than what we have now with the D2v. Although not everyone was affected by every problem, it really was the case that things didn't settle down until the 10th firmware release (V1.10) right at the end of that first year.


There are some nuisance issues in the D2v now, and I suspect we are 1 (or perhaps 2) firmware releases away from squashing all of those, but I don't think there are any really SERIOUS problems in the current, V2.07 "official" firmware. Contrast with the initial firmware release for the D2v which really did have some nasties in it.


As I recall your coupon is good for a year. So why not wait for the V2.08 or V2.09 firmware to come out on the D2v? We are also still waiting on the Dolby Volume firmware release.

--Bob


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17062089
> 
> 
> Let's do some basic diagnosis on this:
> 
> 
> First understand that in a 5.1 system, the surround speakers are "Side" speakers -- no matter how far back they might actually be placed. You only have "Rear" speakers in a 6.1 or 7.1 system.
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> Otherwise call Anthem tech support for hardware service. You have a hardware problem in your 6-Channel analog input.
> 
> --Bob




As usual thanks for your help Bob...


I flash erased and reloaded 1.33 and setup the following:


- htpc configured (as best I can tell) for 5.1 (this is Vista BTW). I set it up both in the control panel sound area and the creative control panel.


- after reloading 1.33, I set rears and surrounds to none... and the OSD indicates so... after doing this I am only able to change listener distance/level for fronts, center and sub. Interestingly, the osd (displayed when pressing OK) on the remote still indicates L C R SUB LS RS for output (I would have expected L C R SUB) but the test tones only play on the 3.1 so I think we're okay here.


- Setup - ADC/Audio Output - both "6-ch Reverse S/R" and "Copy Sur to Rear" are "NA" ... can't change them.


- confirmed that no balance in place on any of the speakers. THX disabled.


with this setup and using the vista "Configure Speakers" wizard the L, C, R and SUB play fine but the individual surround test tones are still being sent to both the L and R (but balanced). Interestingly, when I set to indicate a 7.1 and play the test tones then L, C, R and SUB are still correct (at least as I expect , RR and LR play from both the R and L front speakers (as with 5.1) but SR and SL test tones both play from the Right speaker only! This behavior (the right bias) explains what I hear when playing movies or games with 5.1 sound.


The X-Fi extreme gamer states this (totally confusing to me now that I look at it closer):


Line Out 3 jack Connect the following inputs on powered analog speakers or a home theater receiver to this jack:

On 5.1 systems: Front Center and Subwoofer

On 6.1 systems: Front Center, Subwoofer and Rear Center

On 7.1 systems: Front Center, Subwoofer and Side Left


Line Out 2 jack Connect the following inputs on powered analog speakers or a home theater receiver to this jack:

On 4.1, 5.1 and 6.1 systems: Rear Left and Rear Right

On 7.1 systems: Rear Left, Rear Right and Side Right


Line Out 1 jack Connect the Front Left and Front Right inputs on powered analog speakers or a home theater receiver to this jack.


Which now that I read it makes no sense... If I had 7.1 inputs on my receiver/prepro how is one supposed to hook this up? I'm not aware of any miniplug to 3 rca outputs. (EDIT: perhaps this card is intended to work well only with speaker systems that have mini-jacks for analog input... e.g. creative 7.1 speaker systems). So I hook line out 1 to my L/R (works), line out 3 to sub/center (works) and then line out 2 to the R/L surround (actually works I guess but is not what I want).


UPDATE: clearly, this card is intended to work with speaker systems that accept mini-jacks as well... not intene


I have another x-fi card hooked up to my D2 (which BTW works fine at 5.1 analog but I also have a 5.1 speaker setup there) but it has distinct jacks for F/L, C/S, RS/LS, RR/LR rather than that bizarre setup above so I may try this out on the AVM50 in the 3.1 configuration.


Again, thanks for helping... you now have me convinced that this is some strangeness with the creative card I am using combined with Vista and a 5.1/7.1 confusion in the creative drivers (big surprise there).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/17062515
> 
> 
> Again, thanks for helping... you now have me convinced that this is some strangeness with the creative card I am using combined with Vista and a 5.1/7.1 confusion in the creative drivers (big surprise there).



I think you are on the right track. They've certainly made it a lot more confusing than it probably should be.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17062255
> 
> 
> The problems during the first year the D2 was out were, in my opinion, much worse than what we have now with the D2v. Although not everyone was affected by every problem, it really was the case that things didn't settle down until the 10th firmware release (V1.10) right at the end of that first year.
> 
> 
> There are some nuisance issues in the D2v now, and I suspect we are 1 (or perhaps 2) firmware releases away from squashing all of those, but I don't think there are any really SERIOUS problems in the current, V2.07 "official" firmware. Contrast with the initial firmware release for the D2v which really did have some nasties in it.
> 
> 
> As I recall your coupon is good for a year. So why not wait for the V2.08 or V2.09 firmware to come out on the D2v? We are also still waiting on the Dolby Volume firmware release.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob!


As you said I have until mid December to decide. Maybe I'll just wait it out for a little while longer.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/17062563
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob!
> 
> 
> As you said I have until mid December to decide. Maybe I'll just wait it out for a little while longer.



Of course that means you miss out on more months of juicy D2v goodness!










--Bob


----------



## jpoet

My room is terrible. It is 20' x 16', has a brick fireplace on the left, and open into the kitchen on the right. Basically what I am getting at: I expect ARC to help, but not to magically turn it into a problem free room.


I currently have a AVM 20v2, but would like to upgrade to the blu-ray audio formats, and let ARC do as much as it can. So, I plan on buying either the 50v or D2v within the next month or so.


I am currently leaning towards the 50v because I seriously doubt I would be able to hear the difference between it and the D2v considering the room it will be in. Anyone care to convince me the D2v is worth the 25% premium in price?


Thanks,


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/17062873
> 
> 
> My room is terrible. It is 20' x 16', has a brick fireplace on the left, and open into the kitchen on the right. Basically what I am getting at: I expect ARC to help, but not to magically turn it into a problem free room.
> 
> 
> I currently have a AVM 20v2, but would like to upgrade to the blu-ray audio formats, and let ARC do as much as it can. So, I plan on buying either the 50v or D2v within the next month or so.
> 
> 
> I am currently leaning towards the 50v because I seriously doubt I would be able to hear the difference between it and the D2v considering the room it will be in. Anyone care to convince me the D2v is worth the 25% premium in price?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> John



Here's what we think we know about the hardware differences between the D2v and the AVM 50v:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3&post15546653 


We have very few users posting here who have actually tried both of them, but so far it has been unanimous that the D2v sounds better, and yes you can hear it. Now the AVM 50v is no slouch by any means, so that's actually kind of surprising.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17058177
> 
> 
> To the best of my knowledge there is no setting in the D2v which will force it to not use a Deep Color connection if the display says it will accept that.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> First of all, you are definitely on the right track. This is a signal problem (the white specks or "sparklies" are a classic symptom), and most likely a cable problem. The way to be sure is to bring the Oppo over close to the projector and hook it up with a normal length (5 to 10 feet) of good quality, 1080p high speed HDMI cable. If you can run 36 bit Deep Color video (12 bits per component) through that shorter cable without sparklies, then it is highly likely the problem is your cable to the projector. You could test that with the D2v as well of course, but it's probably a lot easier to move the Oppo.
> 
> 
> The best solution is to upgrade that cable.
> 
> 
> If you are using wall plates or other adapters on that HDMI feed, you may find that the wall plate or adapter is the cause of your problems.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Until you can do that, you may find there is a setting in the projector that disables Deep Color input. If so, the projector will tell the D2v it doesn't want Deep Color and the D2v will send normal, 24 bit video.
> 
> 
> Alternatively, you could send 720p or 1080i to the projector until you can replace the cable. If the projector accepts 1080p/24, then you can use that for Blu-Ray movies. 1080p/24 is actually less bandwidth than 1080i/60 (=1080p/30).
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Finally, I think you should email Anthem tech support and ask that Deep Color output control (and input control for that matter) be added to the firmware for just such situations as yours.
> 
> 
> I've already suggested it to them, but I don't know where it is in their priority list.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob..










Will give Anthem a shout and suggest the feature...


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/17062143
> 
> 
> Ok guys (Bob)!
> 
> 
> I need you to kick me in the pants! I need you to tell me how nuts I am.
> 
> 
> As some of you may know I'm the guy that's been blabbering on for the last six months about this half off coupon I have to exchange my D2 for the D2v. I got my D2 at a ridiculously low price and now I'm sitting on the same kind of deal for the D2v. Upgrade/exchange for 2k!
> 
> 
> The problem is you guys have freaked me out. My D2 is the nuts! I plugged it in, set it up, ran Arc and it's been golden since. I love it! It does everything I need it to do! I'm really scared I'll drop 2k and open a can of worms. I've been reading about issue after issue with the D2v since it launched.
> 
> 
> I admit I was way late to the game when I got the D2. Did it have all kinds of issues in its first 10 months? Have 2v bugs been bad or are they par for the course and nothing to worry about.
> 
> 
> Would I be bat [email protected] crazy to pass on the 50% upgrade offer I have????
> 
> HELP!




I had a really stable and enjoyable setup using a D2.


Guess what? I sold the D2 and getting the D2V. Which I haven't received yet. And I have zero concerns about the result I will get with the D2V. Lost of posts about issues but most of them are not show stoppers and may not even experienced them. We also know that Anthem will be dilligent in fixing them.


I have a friend who received is D2V this week-end and really happy with the stability out of the box.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17062255
> 
> 
> The problems during the first year the D2 was out were, in my opinion, much worse than what we have now with the D2v. Although not everyone was affected by every problem, it really was the case that things didn't settle down until the 10th firmware release (V1.10) right at the end of that first year.
> 
> 
> There are some nuisance issues in the D2v now, and I suspect we are 1 (or perhaps 2) firmware releases away from squashing all of those, but I don't think there are any really SERIOUS problems in the current, V2.07 "official" firmware. Contrast with the initial firmware release for the D2v which really did have some nasties in it.
> 
> 
> As I recall your coupon is good for a year. So why not wait for the V2.08 or V2.09 firmware to come out on the D2v? We are also still waiting on the Dolby Volume firmware release.
> 
> --Bob




I agree with the main issues that we where dealing with at the time was HDMi issues all over the place and that side the D2V is apparently solid.


I should get mine next week and be able to provide my opinion on the stability but I have no worries.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/17062563
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob!
> 
> 
> As you said I have until mid December to decide. Maybe I'll just wait it out for a little while longer.



You also need to consider that now is a good time to get the most out of the reselling value of your D2.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17065759
> 
> 
> You also need to consider that now is a good time to get the most out of the reselling value of your D2.



My D2 will go back to Anthem! My D2 and 2k for the D2v.


----------



## Nicoff

Volume issues. I have to fiddle with the volume around 0 db in order to find the playback volume satisfying. I have a large room and I switched speakers not long ago (the new speakers are a bit less efficient), but I recall listening to lower volumes when I first got the D2. I limited the maximum volume level to +10 db in the set-up menu and wonder if that affected anything. What volume do most of you do your listening? Just curious. I'm now around 0 db.


Also my LPs sound quieter than my digital sources. I just noticed that I can make an adjustment to my Analog Source volume so as to better match the volume with other sources. Will have to try that. Right now I have to play LPs at about +4db to get similar volume as digital sources.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nicoff,

Your new speakers are likely not as efficient as your old speakers. This is not necessarily a bad thing.


Did you re-adjust your speaker volume trim settings after installing the new speakers? Setup > Level Calibration?


If you are using ARC, did you go through the exercise of setting the "Noise Level" in Setup > Level Calibration along with adjusting the volume knob on your subwoofer so that ARC would produce a basic volume level for its solution of around 75dB? And then did you re-do your ARC setup for the new speakers after that?


----------------------------------------


The levels you set via Setup > Level Calibration using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (75dB SPL recommended target level for home theater use) correspond to what "reference level" audio inputs will generate as speaker output when the main volume setting on the D2 is at -10dB.


To do a manual audio levels setup, use the SPL meter as described below for the preliminary setup before running ARC, except that you yourself will set the levels for each speaker after first adjusting Noise Level. I recommend you use the volume knob in your subwoofer to get it close to the right level before fining up the adjustment with its line in Setup > Level Calibration.


----------------------------------------


If you are using ARC, zero out all the settings in Setup > Level Calibration. Then set Test Mode to Manual in the first line and scroll down to Noise Level. The test tone will be coming from your LF speaker. Adjust the Noise Level line to yield 75dB SPL with the Radio Shack SPL meter set to "Slow" response and "C" weighting and positioned pointing straight up at seated ear height and at ARC mic position #1. Hold the meter at arm's length and keep it away from reflective surfaces such as seat backs or walls.


Then, leaving Noise Level at that setting, scroll down to a subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB. The test tone will be coming from your subwoofer. Adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer to also yield 75dB SPL.


Ballpark settings are fine for both of these as ARC will make the fine adjustments and Upload them into the Setup menu.


Now go re-Measure your ARC setup. ARC will use the Noise Level setting you just made to adjust the volume of its test sweep tones. And the volume adjustment you made in your subwoofer will insure it is already fairly closely matched to the main speakers.


When you look at the resulting ARC charts, the basic volume level of the ARC solution (the flat part of the dashed line Target curve to the right of the hump near the crossover frequencies) should now be close to 75dB. Again this means "reference level" audio input will yield roughly 75dB SPL speaker output when the Main Volume knob on the D2 is set to -10dB.


Be aware that PEAK volumes from audio tracks may easily exceed reference level by 15dB.


NOTE: For folks using the D2v or AVM 50v, the firmware for those uses the label "Test Level" in Setup > Level Calibration instead of "Noise Level".


------------------------------------------


You should not hook a turntable directly to the Anthem. The Anthem analog inputs all expect "line level" voltage, and phono cartridges put out phono level which is much lower. You need an external phono-preamp between the turntable and the Anthem. If you already have one of those, make sure it is set to adjust for the type of phono cartridge you are using as the electrical output differs for different styles of cartridge.


If you still have an audio level difference after doing that, then yes, you can use the Analog audio input level adjustments in the D2 to correct that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New D2v/AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.07g Now on Password Protected Download Page!*


"Test" firmware version V2.07g (26aug09) for the D2v and AVM 50v has just appeared on Anthem's password protected download page. Change notes for changes since V2.06 read as follows:

*************************************************************


BEWARE: THIS VERSION STILL COMES WITH THE "SCARY WARNING"!


*************************************************************



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> WARNING: Do not attempt to load beta software unless the computer and connection is known to successfully update an AVM 50v or D2v. A programming failure may result in the necessity for factory reprogramming.
> 
> 
> v2.07g beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for audio loss when some advanced bass management settings were changed manually.
> 
> 
> 2. Small change to DTS Master Audio display since unabbreviated display is required.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Faster HDMI lock when switching sources.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07e beta:
> 
> 
> 1. More changes to address video switching, audio dropouts, and audio glitches.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. More changes to video code base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Video processor code base updates.
> 
> 
> 2. Audio DSP code base update.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for Sony as second monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for popping that began in v2.06 with Toshiba XA2 as source.
> 
> 
> 2. New VXP video processor code.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for a DSP problem that affected the AVM 50v with 44.1 kHz input.



The "official" firmware version for the D2v and AVM 50v remains V2.07.


The "official" firmware version for the original D2 and AVM 50 remains V1.33. The "test" firmware version for the original D2 and AVM 50 (*ONLY FOR UNITS WITH LATER HARDWARE CONFIGURATION!*) remains V1.47f.


The "official" ARC software version, for use with ALL Anthem processors that support ARC, is V2.2. There is no "test" ARC software at the moment.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The installer for "test" firmware V2.07g incorrectly identifies itself as being for V2.07f. I'm installing now to see if V2.07g actually gets installed.


I've emailed to Nick on this.


ETA: The installed firmware says it is V2.07g, so the error is just in the version number displayed by the installer app itself.

--Bob


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17062537
> 
> 
> I think you are on the right track. They've certainly made it a lot more confusing than it probably should be.
> 
> --Bob



Well, I stand corrected... Still appears to be an issue with either the Anthem in general, my AVM50 in particular or in my expectations...


I installed the X-fi titanium (blah-blah) card in the htpc (the one that works fine in a full 5.1 configuration downstairs with the D2) and noted the same symptoms when the HTPC is connected to the 5.1 input and configured for 5.1 whilst the AVM50 is configured for 3.1 (symptoms are that the left/right surround signal is sent to both the front and left speaker) when testing using the Vista speaker configuration thingy and even worse symptoms (a right bias) to the surround channels (which appear to play only over the right front and center channel speaker) when sourcing any 5.1 real world signal (game, movie, etc). I don't see that any THX or other modes are active (heck, there not even available as far as I can tell on the 5.1 audio input).


I then hooked up 2 surrounds to the AVM50, configured them in the AVM50, changed nothing on the HTPC end of things and 5.1 test signals from the HTPC are as expected. Additionally, games and movies are as expected... no right bias, surround channels sent to the appropriate surround speaker.


Next I used the Avia disk in the Oppo dvd player and tested using the 5.1 test patterns... when surrounds are configured, things are as expected... when I just go into "Speaker Config" and set the surrounds to None then the left/right surround are sent to both left and right front speakers... same symptoms as I notice on the PC.


I believe my expectations are correct (the manual appears to confirm as well)... that when configured as 3.1 in the AVM50 then the right surround input will be sent to the right front speaker and left surround input will be set to the left front speaker. If I connect either the HTPC or Oppo using the optical cable, then when in 3.1 configuration the AVM50 will send the left surround to the left front and the right surround to the right front when fed a 5.1 signal.


This appears to be an issue with the AnalogDSP 5.1 input (at least with my AVM50). If I feel lucky I might do the same test on the D2 in the home theater... unconfigure the surrounds and see if the left/right surround are sent through both left and front speakers and if I notice a right hand bias when playing real world 5.1 material (games, movies. etc.). A little nervous about trying this as the D2 in the basement has ARC and is working nicely and I really don't want to mess with things!


Perhaps I'll try 1.47f beta to see if anything changes.


I may also be missing the forest for the trees at this point in time!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Go back and re-read my post about the two plug-swapping tests. That will nail down that the problem really is in the AVM 50 and that you need to call Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17068416
> 
> 
> Go back and re-read my post about the two plug-swapping tests. That will nail down that the problem really is in the AVM 50 and that you need to call Anthem tech support.
> 
> --Bob



Missed that forest for the trees 


Here's the result:


- swapped LF/RF output... bias now swapped to left.


- restored LF/RF output... bias back to right


- swapped LS/RS input... bias stayed on right


So that implies the problem is in the Anthem. Do you know if this 5.1 analog dsp downmixing (5.1 to 3.1) is done via hardware or software (as you can tell, I know nothing about this stuff)?


I did re-install 1.33 yesterday and only configured my speakers and the two inputs (HTPC and Oppo) so don't think I'll have much luck trying 1.33 again.


I may try 1.47 beta (I have access to it). I'll contact Anthem tech support to see what may be the issue here (sure would hate to have to send this in to fix it as it works fine when 5.1 speakers are configured... hoping it is a firmware issue).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I think "test" firmware V2.07g is having more trouble with audio:


1) It is taking significantly longer for the audio to begin when the format changes, even though the displayed info already shows the correct audio format detected.


2) The 7.1 DTS-HD MA track from "Hairspray" Blu-Ray is being seen as 5.1. This is distinct from the older problem which was fixed in V2.07f, because in V2.07g you can't make it go back to 7.1 by simply pausing and restarting the audio stream. Indeed it you tell the D2v that you have 7.1 speakers, it STILL sees this track as only 5.1 (the audio mode with my mode presets becomes DTS-HD MA 5.1 + Neo:6, so the input is 5.1)


3) The 7.1 DTS-HD MA channel ID test on the AIX audio calibration Blu-Ray disc now plays the "core" if you specify only 5.1 speakers. This is flagged by the "core" volume being deliberately set very low on that AIX disc so that you will know something is wrong. If you change to 7.1 speakers the test plays correctly. In V2.07f this test ALSO played correctly when you specified only 5.1 speakers -- with the D2v doing the down-mix from the 7.1 track to the 5.1 speakers.


4) It is still the case that HDMI LPCM audio channels are missing or corrupted any time neither LF nor RF has any audio content.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/17068840
> 
> 
> Missed that forest for the trees
> 
> 
> Here's the result:
> 
> 
> - swapped LF/RF output... bias now swapped to left.
> 
> 
> - restored LF/RF output... bias back to right
> 
> 
> - swapped LS/RS input... bias stayed on right
> 
> 
> So that implies the problem is in the Anthem. Do you know if this 5.1 analog dsp downmixing (5.1 to 3.1) is done via hardware or software (as you can tell, I know nothing about this stuff)?
> 
> 
> I did re-install 1.33 yesterday and only configured my speakers and the two inputs (HTPC and Oppo) so don't think I'll have much luck trying 1.33 again.
> 
> 
> I may try 1.47 beta (I have access to it). I'll contact Anthem tech support to see what may be the issue here (sure would hate to have to send this in to fix it as it works fine when 5.1 speakers are configured... hoping it is a firmware issue).



The down-mixing is done in the DSP processing after the analog input is digitized. It could indeed be a firmware issue.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More V2.07g results:


My video issues where 36 bit video from the Oppo doesn't look as good as 30-bit (Dithered) video, and where YCbCr 4:2:2 from the Oppo has black levels too bright still exist in this firmware. As a reminder, these two problems may be related to the specific work the D2v is doing to convert video to the 1360x768p Studio RGB needed by my display. If you have a 1080p YCbCr display you may not see this.


The "Buzz Snap!" noise still exists with HDMI Bitstream output (480i video) from my Pioneer Elite DV-50avi SD-DVD player.


On a positive note, it appears the bug has been FIXED where 2.0 LPCM input fed into PLIIx-Movie or -Music audio modes only produced output to LF/RF/Sub instead of all 5.1 of my speakers. I've been fooled by this before so this will take more testing to confirm, but so far I've not been able to get it to fail in V2.07g. (NOTE: If this fails, there is an easy workaround. Simply switch the audio mode to anything else and back again.)

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17067531
> 
> 
> Nicoff,
> 
> Your new speakers are likely not as efficient as your old speakers. This is not necessarily a bad thing.
> 
> 
> Did you re-adjust your speaker volume trim settings after installing the new speakers? Setup > Level Calibration?
> 
> 
> If you are using ARC, did you go through the exercise of setting the "Noise Level" in Setup > Level Calibration along with adjusting the volume knob on your subwoofer so that ARC would produce a basic volume level for its solution of around 75dB? And then did you re-do your ARC setup for the new speakers after that?
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The levels you set via Setup > Level Calibration using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (75dB SPL recommended target level for home theater use) correspond to what "reference level" audio inputs will generate as speaker output when the main volume setting on the D2 is at -10dB.
> 
> 
> To do a manual audio levels setup, use the SPL meter as described below for the preliminary setup before running ARC, except that you yourself will set the levels for each speaker after first adjusting Noise Level. I recommend you use the volume knob in your subwoofer to get it close to the right level before fining up the adjustment with its line in Setup > Level Calibration.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you are using ARC, zero out all the settings in Setup > Level Calibration. Then set Test Mode to Manual in the first line and scroll down to Noise Level. The test tone will be coming from your LF speaker. Adjust the Noise Level line to yield 75dB SPL with the Radio Shack SPL meter set to "Slow" response and "C" weighting and positioned pointing straight up at seated ear height and at ARC mic position #1. Hold the meter at arm's length and keep it away from reflective surfaces such as seat backs or walls.
> 
> 
> Then, leaving Noise Level at that setting, scroll down to a subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB. The test tone will be coming from your subwoofer. Adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer to also yield 75dB SPL.
> 
> 
> Ballpark settings are fine for both of these as ARC will make the fine adjustments and Upload them into the Setup menu.
> 
> 
> Now go re-Measure your ARC setup. ARC will use the Noise Level setting you just made to adjust the volume of its test sweep tones. And the volume adjustment you made in your subwoofer will insure it is already fairly closely matched to the main speakers.
> 
> 
> When you look at the resulting ARC charts, the basic volume level of the ARC solution (the flat part of the dashed line Target curve to the right of the hump near the crossover frequencies) should now be close to 75dB. Again this means "reference level" audio input will yield roughly 75dB SPL speaker output when the Main Volume knob on the D2 is set to -10dB.
> 
> 
> Be aware that PEAK volumes from audio tracks may easily exceed reference level by 15dB.
> 
> 
> NOTE: For folks using the D2v or AVM 50v, the firmware for those uses the label "Test Level" in Setup > Level Calibration instead of "Noise Level".
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> You should not hook a turntable directly to the Anthem. The Anthem analog inputs all expect "line level" voltage, and phono cartridges put out phono level which is much lower. You need an external phono-preamp between the turntable and the Anthem. If you already have one of those, make sure it is set to adjust for the type of phono cartridge you are using as the electrical output differs for different styles of cartridge.
> 
> 
> If you still have an audio level difference after doing that, then yes, you can use the Analog audio input level adjustments in the D2 to correct that.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob. I did not adjust the speaker volume trim settings after I replaced my main speakers so that must be part of my problem. When I redid ARC with the new main speakers, the flat portion of the frequency response curves are around 72-73 db instead of 75 db (as it was with the previous speakers) so that is definitely a contributor.


I have a phono pre-amp (I should have made that clearer) and I feed its output to the AUX in the D2. I have the correct setting for my type of cartridge so I guess that I will have to make some analog gain volume adjustment in the D2.


The D2 (with ARC) has made me tweak (redesign is actually a better word) my entire system. First (thanks to ARC) I found problems with my rear and center speakers. I fixed those. Then there were humming issues that eventually led to my upgrading my surround amp (which powers the rears and center speakers). Next I decided to upgrade my main speakers and moved my (old) mains to the rear. Because of the D2, I redesigned my entire system in the last 4-5 months. Fortunately, I only do this once every 10 years (knock on wood!).


----------



## vengazor

Just Hooked up my D2v. I have a major problem though in that the Front Display of the unit does not come on. Is there an easy way to turn this on that I am missing or is my unit faulty? Very excited about the quality, no snaps crackles or pops over hdmi


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17070178
> 
> 
> Just Hooked up my D2v. I have a major problem though in that the Front Display of the unit does not come on. Is there an easy way to turn this on that I am missing or is my unit faulty? Very excited about the quality, no snaps crackles or pops over hdmi



Front Panel brightness is controlled by the "8" button on the remote -- adjust the setting using the Up/Down arrow keys.


If that doesn't fix it for you, then give Anthem tech support a call. You may have a faulty Front Panel -- perhaps a cable came loose in shipment.

--Bob


----------



## vengazor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17070673
> 
> 
> Front Panel brightness is controlled by the "8" button on the remote -- adjust the setting using the Up/Down arrow keys.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't fix it for you, then give Anthem tech support a call. You may have a faulty Front Panel -- perhaps a cable came loose in shipment.
> 
> --Bob



I've tried everything, thanks, Bob, will call them tomorrow


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I have followed your suggestions for setting speaker levels before running ARC. I use the RShack SPL meter with good batteries. However after ARC, my levels are at around 82 db not 75. Is there something I may be doing wrong?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Typically this is happening because ARC is having trouble coming up with volume trim levels that will work for all speakers. By raising the basic target level it can boost weak speakers further and cut strong speakers and keep all of them within the +/- trim range supported in the Setup menu. What trim values has it Uploaded? Any of them rather large?


It can also happen if ARC finds speaker weakness outside of the frequency range covered by the test tones generated in Setup > Level Calibration. ARC uses a much wider range of frequencies to evaluate the best level setting, and may raise the basic level so that it can implement more of its corrections as cuts rather than boosts. Do you have Measured dips in bass that ARC might be adjusting by raising the basic volume level?


Also, the SPL meter is less accurate if you set it to a range such that the measurement you are taking is at the high or low end of the scale. Pick a range so that the measurement you are targeting is near mid-scale for that range. ARC's Measured values are more accurate across the frequency range.


It is not crucial that you hit the 75dB basic volume level precisely. You don't want to be much lower since that means ARC might have trouble accurately Measuring the quieter frequencies in its test sweep tones. And you don't want to be so high that peak Measured frequencies might be close to clipping.


When I look at the charts posted here, I'm pretty comfortable with basic volume levels in the range 72-80dB. So your 82dB is a little higher, and you should check the charts and the uploaded volume trims to see if you can figure out why. But it is probably no big deal.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17070806
> 
> 
> I've tried everything, thanks, Bob, will call them tomorrow



They may ask you to do a re-install of the V2.07 firmware "just in case", but odds are this is a hardware problem. They'll get it sorted out for you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More V2.07g results:


I think the slowness to start up audio may be limited to the high bandwidth tracks over HDMI -- whether bitstream or LPCM.


I don't seem to be having that slowness starting audio for bitstreams over Optical cable (from my Comcast box) or for SD-DVD tracks over HDMI from the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## vengazor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17072568
> 
> 
> They may ask you to do a re-install of the V2.07 firmware "just in case", but odds are this is a hardware problem. They'll get it sorted out for you.
> 
> --Bob



I contacted my dealer, they will take a look under the hood to see if they can reconnect something that may have come loose during shipping, if not, Anthem will swap it out for a new one.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17022478
> 
> 
> OK, I had a chance to explore this more carefully at higher volume.
> 
> 
> I was using the first 52 seconds of the track as the test -- playing it repeatedly. You really have to listen closely to distinguish stuff that's built into the track. For example there is a "crackle" at 0:22 which is part of the sound-effect for the torch.
> 
> 
> Anyway, we've got the previously described strangeness where the D2v reports the Bitstream input of the track as 7.1 if you set 7.1 speakers but only 5.1 if you set 5.1 speakers. Apparently the D2v decoder is using an unusual feature of this track to provide two different "speaker presentations".
> 
> 
> That aside, I did notice some pops playing this segment over again multiple times with 7.1 speakers set. They were similar to the pops I described for Dark City above. As in that case, they didn't repeat at specific time codes.
> 
> 
> But I *ALSO* had a very few pops with 5.1 speakers set. Same sort of pops just much fewer of them.
> 
> 
> So I think what I can confirm is that more pops are likely to happen if you set 7.1 speakers with Bitstream input of this track from the Oppo, but a few pops will also happen with 5.1 speakers if you repeat this segment enough times.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Are there any AVM-50v (v2.07) owners that can confirm that this 7.1 DTS-HDMA/Oppo HDMI bitstreaming issue is present with their units?


I am currently using a Denon 5308CI with the Oppo with zero issues and would hate to install the Anthem only to have concerns about 7.1 channel Blu-ray Disc playback.



Regards,


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob,

I have a sub that has two options for adjusting vollume. One is for the processor that the volume can be adjusted only on the processor (not the sub) and the second option is for the sub that the vollume can be adjusted only on the sub (not the processor).

Now my question is, before I run ARC shall I adjust the sub volume in the d2v (might not be zero) or adjust the volume in the sub and leave the vollume for sub in the d2v at zero?

Thanks for your help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17075158
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> I have a sub that has two options for adjusting vollume. One is for the processor that the volume can be adjusted only on the processor (not the sub) and the second option is for the sub that the vollume can be adjusted only on the sub (not the processor).
> 
> Now my question is, before I run ARC shall I adjust the sub volume in the d2v (might not be zero) or adjust the volume in the sub and leave the vollume for sub in the d2v at zero?
> 
> Thanks for your help.



I recommend you do it like this:


1) Zero out all the lines in Setup > Level Calibration.


2) Select Manual test mode


3) Adjust the Test Level line to yield 75dB SPL (the tone will be coming from the left front speaker). A ballpark-close setting is fine. Leave Test Level set at this value.


4) Scroll down to a subwoofer line. Leave it at 0dB. The test tone will be coming from the subwoofer.


5) Using the volume control built into the subwoofer, adjust it to yield 75dB SPL. A ballpark-close setting is fine.


6) Exit Setup and go do your ARC setup. ARC will use the Test Level value to set the volume for its sweep tones. The volume setting you made in the subwoofer insures the subwoofer is already pretty close to the main speakers.


7) ARC will Upload correct speaker volume trims for all the speakers (including the subwoofer). The Test Level line will not change.


8) You only have to do this the first time (assuming you don't change the speakers or room setup). Once you have set Test Level the first time, and assuming you don't fiddle with the volume knob on your sub, you can re-run ARC setup without having to redo this. The only value ARC uses out of that menu during its setup is the Test Level value and it doesn't change that when it Uploads. You won't see it, but ARC actually zeroes out the other, old volume trim values before running its test sweep tones.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17075278
> 
> 
> I recommend you do it like this:
> 
> 
> 1) Zero out all the lines in Setup > Level Calibration.
> 
> 
> 2) Select Manual test mode
> 
> 
> 3) Adjust the Test Level line to yield 75dB SPL (the tone will be coming from the left front speaker). A ballpark-close setting is fine. Leave Test Level set at this value.
> 
> 
> 4) Scroll down to a subwoofer line. Leave it at 0dB. The test tone will be coming from the subwoofer.
> 
> 
> 5) Using the volume control built into the subwoofer, adjust it to yield 75dB SPL. A ballpark-close setting is fine.
> 
> 
> 6) Exit Setup and go do your ARC setup. ARC will use the Test Level value to set the volume for its sweep tones. The volume setting you made in the subwoofer insures the subwoofer is already pretty close to the main speakers.
> 
> 
> 7) ARC will Upload correct speaker volume trims for all the speakers (including the subwoofer). The Test Level line will not change.
> 
> 
> 8) You only have to do this the first time (assuming you don't change the speakers or room setup). Once you have set Test Level the first time, and assuming you don't fiddle with the volume knob on your sub, you can re-run ARC setup without having to redo this. The only value ARC uses out of that menu during its setup is the Test Level value and it doesn't change that when it Uploads. You won't see it, but ARC actually zeroes out the other, old volume trim values before running its test sweep tones.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob but a bit confused on #8.

Are you suggesting to run ARC for the 2nd time without messing with Setup>Level calibration?

If yes, after the 2nd setup, should I use the volume control on the sub or change it to the processor so d2v will feed the sub with proper vollume?


Thanks again Bob.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17072542
> 
> 
> Typically this is happening because ARC is having trouble coming up with volume trim levels that will work for all speakers. By raising the basic target level it can boost weak speakers further and cut strong speakers and keep all of them within the +/- trim range supported in the Setup menu. What trim values has it Uploaded? Any of them rather large?
> 
> 
> It can also happen if ARC finds speaker weakness outside of the frequency range covered by the test tones generated in Setup > Level Calibration. ARC uses a much wider range of frequencies to evaluate the best level setting, and may raise the basic level so that it can implement more of its corrections as cuts rather than boosts. Do you have Measured dips in bass that ARC might be adjusting by raising the basic volume level?
> 
> 
> Also, the SPL meter is less accurate if you set it to a range such that the measurement you are taking is at the high or low end of the scale. Pick a range so that the measurement you are targeting is near mid-scale for that range. ARC's Measured values are more accurate across the frequency range.
> 
> 
> It is not crucial that you hit the 75dB basic volume level precisely. You don't want to be much lower since that means ARC might have trouble accurately Measuring the quieter frequencies in its test sweep tones. And you don't want to be so high that peak Measured frequencies might be close to clipping.
> 
> 
> When I look at the charts posted here, I'm pretty comfortable with basic volume levels in the range 72-80dB. So your 82dB is a little higher, and you should check the charts and the uploaded volume trims to see if you can figure out why. But it is probably no big deal.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

My trim levels are in the range of -3 to + 2.5. No big dips in bass either. Actually it sounds great, just that for DTS-Ma, I play it at -18 to -20 which seems low considering how loud it is. As you said, probably not a big deal.

thanks,

John


----------



## vengazor

Sorry for the Statement, pun intended, but this processor is absolutely amazing. I am listening to some Billy Taylor Cd's on my system while my basement is still being finished and the family room receiver is getting upgraded. I hear better detail, more clarity and my wife even notices! This is all on my Sonance in-walls, not even my new paradigm S6's waiting to be kicked in. I can't wait to get it working to its full potential once the front panel display actually gets fixed. Maybe a few smiley faces for another Anthem D2v owner/believer?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17076023
> 
> 
> Sorry for the Statement, pun intended, but this processor is absolutely amazing. I am listening to some Billy Taylor Cd's on my system while my basement is still being finished and the family room receiver is getting upgraded. I hear better detail, more clarity and my wife even notices! This is all on my Sonance in-walls, not even my new paradigm S6's waiting to be kicked in. I can't wait to get it working to its full potential once the front panel display actually gets fixed. Maybe a few smiley faces for another Anthem D2v owner/believer?



Well, I dunno.... You still haven't seen the Front Panel display....


But, OK!







































--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17075355
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob but a bit confused on #8.
> 
> Are you suggesting to run ARC for the 2nd time without messing with Setup>Level calibration?
> 
> If yes, after the 2nd setup, should I use the volume control on the sub or change it to the processor so d2v will feed the sub with proper vollume?
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob.



You are going to end up having BOTH the sub AND the Anthem controlling the sub's volume. You use the control in the sub to get its volume in the right ballpark -- close to matching your other speakers -- and then ARC figures out the fine adjustment to get exact matching and Uploads that into the Anthem's Setup menu. So you want to use the setting on the sub that lets you use its volume knob to get its volume nearly right.


My point in (8) was that you don't have to redo this setting of Test Level and the setting of the volume in the sub every time you run the ARC setup. So long as you haven't changed anything since the last time you ran ARC, the Test Level value and the volume knob setting in the sub will still be close enough to correct -- and ARC ignores any other old values found in Setup > Level Calibration from the last time you ran it (and replaces them with new values when it does its new Upload).

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:


I've justed added a new Sunfire HRS12 subwoofer to my stereo system and attempted to perform a rough manual calibration using my AVM50v w/o ARCs help for now. I used the test noise from the 50v and calibrated my fronts and the subwoofer(using its gain control) to about 75dB with the fronts set to SMALL. The subwoofer phase is 0 degrees for now and is placed about 1ft from the wall, 90 degrees from the left front speaker wall.


With this preliminary setup, does it mean that all speakers are level matched?I've noticed that my subwoofer is sometimes a little hot on some TV material. Its crossed over at 100Hz from the fronts.


Thanks,

David


PS

Can i use the phase adjust option in the 50v setup instead of the one on the subwoofer? If so, how does that work for this would be most convinient?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17076703
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I've justed added a new Sunfire HRS12 subwoofer to my stereo system and attempted to perform a rough manual calibration using my AVM50v w/o ARCs help for now. I used the test noise from the 50v and calibrated my fronts and the subwoofer(using its gain control) to about 75dB with the fronts set to SMALL. The subwoofer phase is 0 degrees for now and is placed about 1ft from the wall, 90 degrees from the left front speaker wall.
> 
> 
> With this preliminary setup, does it mean that all speakers are level matched?I've noticed that my subwoofer is sometimes a little hot on some TV material. Its crossed over at 100Hz from the fronts.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David
> 
> 
> PS
> 
> Can i use the phase adjust option in the 50v setup instead of the one on the subwoofer? If so, how does that work for this would be most convinient?



It's been a while since we talked about doing a manual bass setup (without ARC), so it's probably good to remind folks that there are some posts in the collection of post links in the first post of this thread that talk about that.


The SPL measured from the Level Calibration test tones is an average over a range of frequencies. So it can't really account for frequency variations in speaker response or the room response characteristics that vary both with frequency and with location in the room of both the speaker and the listener. Both of which can leave you with the feeling that your bass setup is not as good as it could be.


So setting Level Calibration tones alone may not be enough to get a good, manual setup for bass.


-----------------------------------


The AVM 50v provides a number of tools for doing manual bass setup, but applying them requires some skill and experimentation.


One of the most important is the special BASS test tones found in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Room Resonance filter. Using these bass test tones, and your SPL meter, you can get a handle on how bass varies by frequency -- which, again, is a combo of the sub's own performance and the room's response to that bass frequency.


If these bass test tones, or your ears, tell you that something needs to be corrected, then you have several ways to go. First of all, bass response is very sensitive to subwoofer positioning. Even inches make a difference in how a sub couples to the room.


Next, if your sub goes very deep (down to 20Hz or below), there is a special Boundary Gain correction which reduces excess subsonic bass due to the sub being placed too close to a wall or corner.


Next is the Room Resonance Filter itself, which can be used to tame the most significant unwanted peak in the bass output.


Next is the crossover settings which in addition to being adjustable up and down in frequency (which can better pair the sub to the main speakers) can also be set to SEPARATE frequencies for the sub and mains. An overlap there gives a bass boost near the crossover, whereas a gap between them reduces bass near the crossover.


-----------------------------


To answer your last question, if you only have one subwoofer, then you can use the subwoofer Polarity and Phase controls in the Anthem instead of, or in combo with, the Polarity and Phase controls of the subwoofer itself. If you have more than one sub, there are not separate controls in the Anthem so you should use the controls on each sub to set up Polarity/Phase for that sub.


There is a tutorial post in the Setup section of the post links in the first post of this thread that talks about setting subwoofer phase.


Proper phase is, of course, something you need to set manually even if you are using ARC (along with proper speaker distances).


But the other controls -- Ultra2 sub (i.e., sub goes extra deep), Boundary Gain compensation, Room Resonance filter, and Center EQ get ignored when ARC is in use (i.e., when Room EQ is ON for the current source). And of course ARC sets the crossovers and volume trims for you as part of its room correction solution.


------------------------------------------


Doing a manual exercise like this will really help you appreciate just how good a job ARC does for you when you switch to using ARC for the solution.


And of course, adjusting bass is only just one part of the overall solution ARC provides.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Thanks Bob:


In the menu, I can't seem to be able to change the SUB Polarity or Phase. I only see the "--" in the menu. How can I get it to show the proper settings? BTW, the parameter used to cross my SUB is the "XOVER FREQ" option set at 100Hz. I thought it'd be the "SUB/LFE XOVER" option, but this only shows "--". Same goes for "FRONTS XOVER" as well. Remember that I have a 2.1 system for now.


Thanks,

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17077950
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob:
> 
> 
> In the menu, I can't seem to be able to change the SUB Polarity or Phase. I only see the "--" in the menu. How can I get it to show the proper settings? BTW, the parameter used to cross my SUB is the "XOVER FREQ" option set at 100Hz. I thought it'd be the "SUB/LFE XOVER" option, but this only shows "--". Same goes for "FRONTS XOVER" as well. Remember that I have a 2.1 system for now.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



You have to enable the "Advanced" settings in the first line of Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie or Music.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Cool...thx Bob!


----------



## usxplong

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
You are going to end up having BOTH the sub AND the Anthem controlling the sub's volume. You use the control in the sub to get its volume in the right ballpark -- close to matching your other speakers -- and then ARC figures out the fine adjustment to get exact matching and Uploads that into the Anthem's Setup menu. So you want to use the setting on the sub that lets you use its volume knob to get its volume nearly right.


My point in (8) was that you don't have to redo this setting of Test Level and the setting of the volume in the sub every time you run the ARC setup. So long as you haven't changed anything since the last time you ran ARC, the Test Level value and the volume knob setting in the sub will still be close enough to correct -- and ARC ignores any other old values found in Setup > Level Calibration from the last time you ran it (and replaces them with new values when it does its new Upload).

--Bob


Thanks Bob,

I run the ARC again as you suggested. Adjusted the main volume to be 75db and zeroed all other level and also adjusted the sub vollume to be 75db. After running the ARC the charts show the vollume has been raised to around 85db. And when I tested the vollume in the Setup>Calibration menue as ARC uploaded them, I found the vollume for all speaker are around 75db. I don't know what the magic is? Attached are my ARC results. Would you review and comment. I appreciat it.

 

1.doc 134.5k . file

 

2.doc 133k . file

 

3.doc 48k . file


----------



## vengazor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17076059
> 
> 
> Well, I dunno.... You still haven't seen the Front Panel display....
> 
> 
> But, OK!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Well I get home today to turn on the Anthem and listen to some music with my wife and kids, and BAM, front display working. Odd, but who cares, I will take it. I like not having to use the tv to know what I am supposed to see on the front display


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17080861
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> I run the ARC again as you suggested. Adjusted the main volume to be 75db and zeroed all other level and also adjusted the sub vollume to be 75db. After running the ARC the charts show the vollume has been raised to around 85db. And when I tested the vollume in the Setup>Calibration menue as ARC uploaded them, I found the vollume for all speaker are around 75db. I don't know what the magic is? Attached are my ARC results. Would you review and comment. I appreciat it.



The results look a lot like mine especially the 85db when the test tone is at 75db. Otherwise your results look very good and should sound great. As Nick has told me, he can now look at the charts and predict the sound you'll hear and yours look quite good.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17080861
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> I run the ARC again as you suggested. Adjusted the main volume to be 75db and zeroed all other level and also adjusted the sub vollume to be 75db. After running the ARC the charts show the vollume has been raised to around 85db. And when I tested the vollume in the Setup>Calibration menue as ARC uploaded them, I found the vollume for all speaker are around 75db. I don't know what the magic is? Attached are my ARC results. Would you review and comment. I appreciat it.



Perhaps we are not communicating. You should NOT be fiddling with the Main path volume setting while doing this. All the adjustments are made within the Setup > Level Calibration menu and using the volume knob built into your subwoofer.


The line you adjust in Setup > Level Calibration is the "Test Level" line.


Please post the values ARC uploaded into your Setup > Level Calibration menu.


Please note that you should zero the other lines in Setup > Level Calibration *BEFORE* attempting to set the Test Level line. (Any non-zero value in the LF line messes up the setting you are trying to make in Test Level.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem updated the password protected download page today to add the old V1.21d firmware for the original D2. Presumably this was done to help some customer past a problem.


The V1.47f test firmware for the older units and the V2.07g test firmware for the newer units remains unchanged.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In testing late last night I had a recurrence in "test" firmware V2.07g of the problem where 2.0 LPCM input to PLIIx-Movie (or Music) mode produces output to only LF/RF/Sub instead of all 5.1 speakers in my setup. Most commonly this happens when you play a CD using a Source you have set up to use PLIIx-Movie for stereo movies. It seems to be much less likely to happen with movies themselves. 2.0 movies are typically 48KHz and CDs are 44.1 KHz so that may be why.


This makes the 3rd or 4th time where early testing of a new firmware install led me to believe this bug was fixed only to have it show up in later testing. It could be completely random or it could be that something changes after you've used new firmware for a while.


As before, changing audio mode to anything else and back again cures this problem. I sent an update to Anthem.


Typically you wouldn't use PLIIx-Movie for listening to CDs, and many folks use Stereo mode for listening to CDs anyway (which correctly produces output to just LF/RF/Sub). So you might not even notice this happening if you don't know to check for it. You can confirm it is happening by pressing Select multiple times until the info display comes up that shows which speakers are currently active for output.

--Bob


----------



## binkman

After finally getting my pre/pro last weekend and running into issues with ARC, I was traveling all week and didn't get back to it. All is well now.


For other's reference:


1) ARC appears not to be ready for Windows 7 at this point. Bob and others noted Anthem is working on it for some point in future. In my case, ARC could not initiate the Audio Capture Device under Win7.


2) As noted in multiple posts, the USB-RS232 adapter is absolutely critical. I originally purchased IOGEAR (internals are ATEN) at local retailer since I didn't want to wait for internet order of the Keyspan. The IOGEAR was a no go. Before heading out on my trip this week I ordered the Keyspan (from Newegg). It was waiting for me last night and ARC worked without a hitch on my XP laptop.


Music sounds great! Tonight we'll audition the video. I came from Marantz AV9000/MM9000. That combo had very rich/warm stereo music but was always a bit weak on 5.1 movies. So far it seems the Anthem will excel at both.


I've tried a few DVD scenes and see I need to master the Scaler settings to get things just right. For example, running Top Gun with Scaler Output on Panoramic magnified the image so much that I only saw a quarter of the picture but magnified to full screen. Setting to Anamorphic seems to solve that. All part of the fun.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm glad you got the ARC stuff working!


I've not heard from Nick as to when they think they'll have Windows 7 support. It's probably just a matter of hooking in to the Windows 7 version of the audio capture framework they use for mic input.


Check out the "Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling" post links in the first post of this thread for some background on how these two pieces work together. Panoramic is a non-uniform stretch -- less stretch in the center and more towards the sides. Typically you would use it if you feel the need to stretch 4:3 content left and right to fill the 16:9 screen so that the center of the image is less distorted. Anamorphic and Letter Box are the modes more commonly used for critical viewing.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17083297
> 
> 
> Perhaps we are not communicating. You should NOT be fiddling with the Main path volume setting while doing this. All the adjustments are made within the Setup > Level Calibration menu and using the volume knob built into your subwoofer.
> 
> 
> The line you adjust in Setup > Level Calibration is the "Test Level" line.
> 
> 
> Please post the values ARC uploaded into your Setup > Level Calibration menu.
> 
> 
> Please note that you should zero the other lines in Setup > Level Calibration *BEFORE* attempting to set the Test Level line. (Any non-zero value in the LF line messes up the setting you are trying to make in Test Level.)
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob,

Here is what I did before running the ARC.

Zeroed all other levels in the Setup>Calibration then adjusted the Test Level to read 75db then adjusted the sub volume on the sub to read 75db while the sub and other speakers were zeroed in the Setup> Calibration menue. When I run the ARC the graphs shows upto 85db. When I checked the speaker vollumes in the Setup>Calibration menue after ARC uploaded them, all speakers were around 75db. My speaker volume in the Setup>Calibration menau that ARC has uploaded are as follows:

FL = -0.5, C = +1.0, FR = -1.0, SR = 0.5, SL = 0 and Movie & Music Sub = +0.5.

I really appreciate your review.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well I'm stumped. As you describe it, you did everything right and there's nothing unusual in the charts or the volume trims that ARC uploaded to explain it.


There must be another factor involved here causing ARC to prefer setting the basic volume level of your solution somewhat higher. But I don't know what it is.


In any event, I wouldn't worry about it too much. There are no problems in your results, and if it sounds good to you, then that's what matters.


If you feel like experimenting, try going through the same exercise again targeting 70dB on you SPL meter, and see if ARC comes up with a 75dB solution.


Perhaps your SPL meter is faulty. You've only ever had just one ARC mic, correct? So there's no chance you might be mistakenly using the calibration file for the wrong ARC mic?


Check in Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction and confirm that the 2 files in there with numbers for names have numbers made up of your Anthem serial number and your ARC mic serial number.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, the basic volume level of your ARC solution is about 81 or 82 dB. Not 85 dB. It is shown as the flat part of the solution to the right of the Room Gain hump.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17086230
> 
> 
> Well I'm stumped. As you describe it, you did everything right and there's nothing unusual in the charts or the volume trims that ARC uploaded to explain it.
> 
> 
> There must be another factor involved here causing ARC to prefer setting the basic volume level of your solution somewhat higher. But I don't know what it is.
> 
> 
> In any event, I wouldn't worry about it too much. There are no problems in your results, and if it sounds good to you, then that's what matters.
> 
> 
> If you feel like experimenting, try going through the same exercise again targeting 70dB on you SPL meter, and see if ARC comes up with a 75dB solution.
> 
> 
> Perhaps your SPL meter is faulty. You've only ever had just one ARC mic, correct? So there's no chance you might be mistakenly using the calibration file for the wrong ARC mic?
> 
> 
> Check in Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction and confirm that the 2 files in there with numbers for names have numbers made up of your Anthem serial number and your ARC mic serial number.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.

I thought about the SPL Meter too. I bought a new SPL Meter from radio Shak yesterday and checked the volumes, The db between my SPL and the new SPL was very close. When I received my new unit from Anthem the ARC was not working. I talked to Piero and he asked Nick to make me 2 new calibration files for my d2v and mic. The files state the correct d2v serial number and mic serial number. This might be the case. I will run the 70db setup as you suggested but I am afraid the ARC will upload the vollumes as 70db and show the graphs as 80db. It is amazing the grapghs are higher than the actual speaker levels in the d2v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Again, your difference is not 10dB. It is more like 6dB. The peak value you are looking at is the Room Gain hump.


It is not unusual for the SPL meter readings to differ a few dB from ARC's charted result even when using the volume trims ARC has uploaded. The SPL test tones are an average over a narrower frequency range than ARC uses when setting the levels. So if you allow, say 3dB for that, then your mysterious discrepancy here amounts to only about an additional 3dB in the same direction.


I suppose it is also possible that you are not reading the SPL meter correctly. Set "slow" response and "C" weighting. Set the range so that 75dB is mid-range. For the meter with the digital readout, that's the 70dB range setting. I don't have the analog version of the meter (moving needle) so I'm not sure which range setting is correct for that one.


Hold the meter at arm's length, point it straight up, and position it at seated ear height at your central seating location (ARC mic position #1). Lift it higher or hold it closer to the screen to keep it away from the chair back or other reflective surfaces. Wait a few seconds during each reading for the meter to settle on a value.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

walt here. been off line for a few months, and just installed new four way towers.

the charts reflect much higher db than the older speakers did.

i used bob's set up guide, and used a r/s meter set as i always did .

what is the collective wisdom as where to go next.

thx

walt


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17086115
> 
> 
> I'm glad you got the ARC stuff working!
> 
> 
> I've not heard from Nick as to when they think they'll have Windows 7 support. It's probably just a matter of hooking in to the Windows 7 version of the audio capture framework they use for mic input.
> 
> 
> Check out the "Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling" post links in the first post of this thread for some background on how these two pieces work together. Panoramic is a non-uniform stretch -- less stretch in the center and more towards the sides. Typically you would use it if you feel the need to stretch 4:3 content left and right to fill the 16:9 screen so that the center of the image is less distorted. Anamorphic and Letter Box are the modes more commonly used for critical viewing.
> 
> --Bob



I asked Nick about Win 7 support several months ago and he said it wouldn't happen before it was released, Oct. 22 I believe. After that it would be a work in progress.

John


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/17086780
> 
> 
> walt here. been off line for a few months, and just installed new four way towers.
> 
> the charts reflect much higher db than the older speakers did.
> 
> i used bob's set up guide, and used a r/s meter set as i always did .
> 
> what is the collective wisdom as where to go next.
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



Not Bob,


Can you tone down the low frequency driver of your new towers? It seems that they are off the chart. Also, can you defeat the crossover of your subwoofer? The sharp roll off from your sub might indicate that its crossover is engaged or set to a low value or there might be a boost at the 25-30 hertz region


2 cents


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/17086780
> 
> 
> walt here. been off line for a few months, and just installed new four way towers.
> 
> the charts reflect much higher db than the older speakers did.
> 
> i used bob's set up guide, and used a r/s meter set as i always did .
> 
> what is the collective wisdom as where to go next.
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



You might try increasing the Max. Eq. Freq. To 20000 to see

If your high freq. flattens more.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/17086780
> 
> 
> walt here. been off line for a few months, and just installed new four way towers.
> 
> the charts reflect much higher db than the older speakers did.
> 
> i used bob's set up guide, and used a r/s meter set as i always did .
> 
> what is the collective wisdom as where to go next.
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



I suspect the excessive subsonic bass from LF/RF is what's causing the problem in your case. The test tones sent to the SPL meter would never see those frequencies.


The other comments made above are also spot on. The Measured (red curve) response of your sub looks like it has its internal crossover enabled. You should disable that so that the Anthem can do that job. If you can't bypass the crossover built into the sub, set it to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.


And raising Max EQ Frequency in the ARC Targets window will tell ARC it is OK to apply correction above the default limit of 5KHz. However, the amount of low frequency correction ARC has to do for you may mean you can't really divert resources up higher without developing problems. It would be best to start by figuring out why your LF/RF are so hot below 40 Hz.

--Bob


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17086115
> 
> 
> I'm glad you got the ARC stuff working!
> 
> Check out the "Fun with Custom Cropping and Scaling" post links in the first post of this thread for some background on how these two pieces work together. Panoramic is a non-uniform stretch -- less stretch in the center and more towards the sides. Typically you would use it if you feel the need to stretch 4:3 content left and right to fill the 16:9 screen so that the center of the image is less distorted. Anamorphic and Letter Box are the modes more commonly used for critical viewing.
> 
> --Bob



Speaking of this, I wish that there was some customizability to the Panoramic setting. In my experience, my old rear projection CRT Pioneer Elite TV was the only thing that I've found really got the balance of stretch, top/bottom picture loss, and overall look just right for putting a 4x3 picture across the entirety of a wide screen TV. Even the new Pioneer Elite plasmas don't appear to use the same algorithm and, like everything else out there, have way to much obvious stretch at the sides compared to the middle so any picture panning results in incredibly distracting distortion of the moving images.


If there was a way they could bake in some user-adjustable settings (top/bottom overscan, amount of side-stretch, etc.) I'd be one very happy camper...


-Ravi


----------



## erikno

This morning, I had again problem both with sound and picture with my d2v. To put it simply, nothing happend. I switched on off, back switch on off, turning on off all the other components, swithcing between inputs on the remote, - everything. Then I took out the output hdmi cables, both the projector and the tv, and voila, putting back only the tv cable, disney channel on again! Putting in the hdmi cable for the projector, without having the projector on, took away the signal from the tv!


Ok, so later today, after the proper amount of coffe, I took away the tv hdmi cable and replaced it with the projector in the same output, turned the projector on, and voila it functioned! Then I put the tv hdmi cable in the other slot, turned off the projector and the tv on, and guess what, that also functioned!


So now is everything back to normal. I have learned a couple of things. Do not turn of the d2v before next firmware release.. . I did that last night. The other thing is that, if I use another "system", turn it off for the night, and then try to get back to the normal "tv" the next day, that screw things up. Last night we saw Pink Panther "2" on blue ray and the big screen (Very amusing!) and the same has happened if I end the evening listening to music in the 2ch input. Going back the next day is a mess. However, if I end the night with the tv and the tv box (motorola PVR), there are no problems the day after.


Does anyone else recognised the same type of events? My solution is now quite simple, just keep the d2v running, and nothing happens.


........................


Anyway, I also did a test between analog direct and analog dsp with my system on the balanced 2ch input. My system consists of a dCS P8i SACD playes, Nordost Valhalla XLR interconnects, the rest TYR, BAT VK 75 SE valve amplifier and Burmester B50 Loudspeakers.


My test was to see how good the DSP and the use of room correction was. I ended up using DSP, with room correction, it is THAT good.







. I tried to see if there was a slight reduction in dynamics, and perhaps a tiny bit, but overall, this is just heaven, especially for my BASS which transformed my BAT.


Important however, is the set the correct distance between the loudspeakers and where you are sitting. I used 4m which was a rough estimate. I then measured correctly, and changed that to 3,8m after a thorough test. Wow, those 0,2m was important...! Now the sound embrace you holographic an the music is just THERE.


Also, I tried out some new classic music which have som fantastic recordings from the Norwegian Label 2L with Grieg. It comes both on blue ray with DTS MA HD and SACD. It acually with plays better going bitstream directly from my std blue ray player on 24/192 than on my High End SACD. That I think/now, is a direct consequence of the very good d2v internal processing.


Hmm, the world is really changing..


erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau

erikno,

I can't try what you are doing because I only use one HDMI output from my D2v. But what you describe sounds like a problem in the projector where it got itself into a state that it wouldn't respond properly to the copy protection stuff (HDCP) and thus the D2v had to mute both video outputs when it was plugged in. Now how it got into that state could be due to a problem in the D2v.


You might want to talk to Anthem tech support about whether yours is a good case to try an install of the "test" V2.07f firmware -- the prior "test" version, not the current V2.07g. V20.7g has some audio problems I believe.


V2.07f has improved HDMI code. Of course by the time you talk to them, they may have a newer version than V2.07g which would be the right one to try.


They may ask you to do a re-install of "official" V2.07 firmware first. This is a good thing to try in its own right, but it will also verify your serial connection and install computer are doing the right thing before you try installing the "test" firmware.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

I'll thank all who responded, for theie insights.

I'll work out the recommendations later this evening.

There are low freq adjustments on the towers:i'll adjust those.

The sub x-over was adjusted to the bypass mode - perhaps moving the sub will help.

The strange thing is, the sound coming out of the system seems to favor the mid/high freq at the expense of the lower freq's.

But, again, my appreciation.

Walt


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> erikno,
> 
> I can't try what you are doing because I only use one HDMI output from my D2v. But what you describe sounds like a problem in the projector where it got itself into a state that it wouldn't respond properly to the copy protection stuff (HDCP) and thus the D2v had to mute both video outputs when it was plugged in. Now how it got into that state could be due to a problem in the D2v.
> 
> 
> You might want to talk to Anthem tech support about whether yours is a good case to try an install of the "test" V2.07f firmware -- the prior "test" version, not the current V2.07g. V20.7g has some audio problems I believe.
> 
> 
> V2.07f has improved HDMI code. Of course by the time you talk to them, they may have a newer version than V2.07g which would be the right one to try.
> 
> 
> They may ask you to do a re-install of "official" V2.07 firmware first. This is a good thing to try in its own right, but it will also verify your serial connection and install computer are doing the right thing before you try installing the "test" firmware.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I think you are onto something here. What I will do anyway first, is to reinstall the 2.07 firmware just to be safe. I also know that the projector (Avelio by projection design - Radiance) which is brand new to the market this spring, already has an newer software update now. Their tech guy will come to my house to install it, and also do the last adjustments. This could also be a thing.


erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17090116
> 
> 
> Bob, I think you are onto something here. What I will do anyway first, is to reinstall the 2.07 firmware just to be safe. I also know that the projector (Avelio by projection design - Radiance) which is brand new to the market this spring, already has an newer software update now. Their tech guy will come to my house to install it, and also do the last adjustments. This could also be a thing.
> 
> 
> erikno



Many modern HDMI products keep the HDMI electronics powered even when the device is "OFF". This is so that the HDMI remote control stuff (the CEC stuff) can function. But this also means that just turning off the device is sometimes not sufficient to reset its HDMI electronics if they've gotten wedged in a strange state.


You actually have to pull the power cord.


In the case of the D2v, turning it off and then using the back panel power switch as well is sufficient. That's a mechanical switch that disconnects wall power. Now I don't think the D2v has a problem with this or we'd be hearing many more reports in this thread. But not THAT many people are using both output sockets.....


My guess is that the HDMI in your projector got wedged and it cleared up either when you disconnected its wall power before moving the HDMI plugs or just due to the HDMI plug being disconnected. By the way, you should disconnect wall power from HDMI devices before plugging or unplugging HDMI plugs for them -- again because the HDMI port might actually be powered even though the device is "OFF".


And of course HDMI plugs/sockets are delicate, so be careful when moving HDMI plugs.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17086607
> 
> 
> Again, your difference is not 10dB. It is more like 6dB. The peak value you are looking at is the Room Gain hump.
> 
> 
> It is not unusual for the SPL meter readings to differ a few dB from ARC's charted result even when using the volume trims ARC has uploaded. The SPL test tones are an average over a narrower frequency range than ARC uses when setting the levels. So if you allow, say 3dB for that, then your mysterious discrepancy here amounts to only about an additional 3dB in the same direction.
> 
> 
> I suppose it is also possible that you are not reading the SPL meter correctly. Set "slow" response and "C" weighting. Set the range so that 75dB is mid-range. For the meter with the digital readout, that's the 70dB range setting. I don't have the analog version of the meter (moving needle) so I'm not sure which range setting is correct for that one.
> 
> 
> Hold the meter at arm's length, point it straight up, and position it at seated ear height at your central seating location (ARC mic position #1). Lift it higher or hold it closer to the screen to keep it away from the chair back or other reflective surfaces. Wait a few seconds during each reading for the meter to settle on a value.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I will try that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More audio problems with "test" D2v firmware V2.07g.


I have a repeatable case of loss of audio playing "Baraka" Blu-Ray when the player is set to send HDMI LPCM to the D2v.


Select the DTS-HD MA track from the disc. Get to near time code 0:58:39 and play through that time code. The audio will cut out and will remain cut out -- apparently indefinitely. If you Pause and then Play the audio returns. The video is not affected.


Confirmed with both the Oppo and the PS3.


If you set the Oppo to HDMI Bitstream output, there is no problem with the audio at this time code. Of course I can't test that with my PS3. Anthem has been informed.


I'm leaning towards reverting back to "test" V2.07f firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17090651
> 
> 
> More audio problems with "test" D2v firmware V2.07g.
> 
> 
> I have a repeatable case of loss of audio playing "Baraka" Blu-Ray when the player is set to send HDMI LPCM to the D2v.
> 
> 
> Select the DTS-HD MA track from the disc. Get to near time code 0:58:39 and play through that time code. The audio will cut out and will remain cut out -- apparently indefinitely. If you Pause and then Play the audio returns. The video is not affected.
> 
> 
> Confirmed with both the Oppo and the PS3.
> 
> 
> If you set the Oppo to HDMI Bitstream output, there is no problem with the audio at this time code. Of course I can't test that with my PS3. Anthem has been informed.
> 
> 
> I'm leaning towards reverting back to "test" V2.07f firmware.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, Im a new 2V owner (haven't received it yet) and watching all these posts with great interest. I'm sure I echo my praise that you are here on this site!

Im going to contact Anthem and ask for the G version before I set up my unit, hopefully they will agree.


----------



## ironcorn

Just received my 17 1/4 D2v, sounds great, big step up from the AVM 30 and works fine so far, HDMI handshakes aside.


Issues: Quailty control! Did I get a rebuilt D1?


The bottom most/largest audio board looks to be old, it has more dust on it than my AVM 30 which it replaced.

The front face place arrived with a nice gouge in it.

The bottom part of the face plate (glued on rounded part) is purple compared to the rest (black). Poor anodizing?

HDMI out number 1 is cockeyed. (you can see a scratch next to HDMI #2)

The volume knob has a wobble (not as bad as my AVM 30).

The face plate is not bolted flush to the top cover (AVM 30 sits nice and tight).

The buttons look very poor, with discoloration on most.

The screen was wiped with a wet, dirty rag, leaving streaks.

The ACR mic was jammed up, the mic was cockeyed under the screw on tip, had to use fingers to unscrew, reposition, then reassemble. By touching and moving the mic sensor, did I affect its ability to take accurate readings? Do I need a new mic and files?


Not what I was expecting from a top dollar unit. My AVM 30 looks mint next to the old looking D2V.

That being said, it does sound good, really really good. I guess the only downside is I'll take a hit on resale from the cosmetic damage (if I ever sell it) and the old? parts in it could die? at any moment, if they are truly old parts. The video board looks brand new as do some of the other smaller boards, but others are down right dirty, the kind of layered dust that collects over time, or the factory is very, very dirty, or they put it together in a barn. When ever I buy a new, high dollor item, I always go over it with a fine tooth comb and photo document the entire opening process.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ironcorn* /forum/post/17095539
> 
> 
> Just received my 17 1/4 D2v, sounds great, big step up from the AVM 30 and works fine so far, HDMI handshakes aside.
> 
> 
> Issues: Quailty control! Did I get a rebuilt D1?
> 
> 
> The bottom most/largest audio board looks to be old, it has more dust on it than my AVM 30 which it replaced.
> 
> The front face place arrived with a nice gouge in it.
> 
> The bottom part of the face plate (glued on rounded part) is purple compared to the rest (black). Poor anodizing?
> 
> HDMI out number 1 is cockeyed. (you can see a scratch next to HDMI #2)
> 
> The volume knob has a wobble (not as bad as my AVM 30).
> 
> The face plate is not bolted flush to the top cover (AVM 30 sits nice and tight).
> 
> The buttons look very poor, with discoloration on most.
> 
> The screen was wiped with a wet, dirty rag, leaving streaks.
> 
> The ACR mic was jammed up, the mic was cockeyed under the screw on tip, had to use fingers to unscrew, reposition, then reassemble. By touching and moving the mic sensor, did I affect its ability to take accurate readings? Do I need a new mic and files?
> 
> 
> Not what I was expecting from a top dollar unit. My AVM 30 looks mint next to the old looking D2V.
> 
> That being said, it does sound good, really really good. I guess the only downside is I'll take a hit on resale from the cosmetic damage (if I ever sell it) and the old? parts in it could die? at any moment, if they are truly old parts. The video board looks brand new as do some of the other smaller boards, but others are down right dirty, the kind of layered dust that collects over time, or the factory is very, very dirty, or they put it together in a barn. When ever I buy a new, high dollor item, I always go over it with a fine tooth comb and photo document the entire opening process.



Greetings,


I would contact the dealer and arrange for an exchange. There is no way you should accept a brand new unit in that condition. Quite frankly I don't believe that Anthem would send a *new* unit in that condition. Perhaps your dealer pulled a switch?


Regards,


----------



## facke02

Call Anthem and then I would take it back to your dealer ASAP. For this kind of money it needs to be perfect. Mine was...


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Are there any D2V/AVM50v owners that are utilizing both HDMI outputs that can comment on the how well the parallel implementation works. I will be connecting a 1080p JVC RS20 and a 40" 1080p LCD to the Anthem. I will probably never use them simultaneously but am looking for any feedback.


Bob,


The manual states that when using two sub's (using both of the subwoofer outputs) with ARC that the 2 subwoofer setting should not be used during setup. What would be the proper setting when using both sub outputs (or two subwoofers) and ARC?



Regards,


----------



## jayray

"Just received my 17 1/4 D2v, sounds great, big step up from the AVM 30 and works fine so far, HDMI handshakes aside.


Issues: Quailty control! Did I get a rebuilt D1?


The bottom most/largest audio board looks to be old, it has more dust on it than my AVM 30 which it replaced.

The front face place arrived with a nice gouge in it.

The bottom part of the face plate (glued on rounded part) is purple compared to the rest (black). Poor anodizing?

HDMI out number 1 is cockeyed. (you can see a scratch next to HDMI #2)

The volume knob has a wobble (not as bad as my AVM 30).

The face plate is not bolted flush to the top cover (AVM 30 sits nice and tight).

The buttons look very poor, with discoloration on most.

The screen was wiped with a wet, dirty rag, leaving streaks.

The ACR mic was jammed up, the mic was cockeyed under the screw on tip, had to use fingers to unscrew, reposition, then reassemble. By touching and moving the mic sensor, did I affect its ability to take accurate readings? Do I need a new mic and files?


Not what I was expecting from a top dollar unit. My AVM 30 looks mint next to the old looking D2V.

That being said, it does sound good, really really good. I guess the only downside is I'll take a hit on resale from the cosmetic damage (if I ever sell it) and the old? parts in it could die? at any moment, if they are truly old parts. The video board looks brand new as do some of the other smaller boards, but others are down right dirty, the kind of layered dust that collects over time, or the factory is very, very dirty, or they put it together in a barn. When ever I buy a new, high dollor item, I always go over it with a fine tooth comb and photo document the entire opening process."


This is unbelievable







As suggested by others, Do Not accept this and get it exchanged ASAP. Email Nick to tell him of your experience. He may help to expedite it. You are right that it sounds great but it should look great out of the box too.

Good Luck,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ironcorn* /forum/post/17095539
> 
> 
> Just received my 17 1/4 D2v, sounds great, big step up from the AVM 30 and works fine so far, HDMI handshakes aside.
> 
> 
> Issues: Quailty control! Did I get a rebuilt D1?
> 
> 
> The bottom most/largest audio board looks to be old, it has more dust on it than my AVM 30 which it replaced.
> 
> The front face place arrived with a nice gouge in it.
> 
> The bottom part of the face plate (glued on rounded part) is purple compared to the rest (black). Poor anodizing?
> 
> HDMI out number 1 is cockeyed. (you can see a scratch next to HDMI #2)
> 
> The volume knob has a wobble (not as bad as my AVM 30).
> 
> The face plate is not bolted flush to the top cover (AVM 30 sits nice and tight).
> 
> The buttons look very poor, with discoloration on most.
> 
> The screen was wiped with a wet, dirty rag, leaving streaks.
> 
> The ACR mic was jammed up, the mic was cockeyed under the screw on tip, had to use fingers to unscrew, reposition, then reassemble. By touching and moving the mic sensor, did I affect its ability to take accurate readings? Do I need a new mic and files?
> 
> 
> Not what I was expecting from a top dollar unit. My AVM 30 looks mint next to the old looking D2V.
> 
> That being said, it does sound good, really really good. I guess the only downside is I'll take a hit on resale from the cosmetic damage (if I ever sell it) and the old? parts in it could die? at any moment, if they are truly old parts. The video board looks brand new as do some of the other smaller boards, but others are down right dirty, the kind of layered dust that collects over time, or the factory is very, very dirty, or they put it together in a barn. When ever I buy a new, high dollor item, I always go over it with a fine tooth comb and photo document the entire opening process.



Call Anthem tech support and have your unit serial # handy. They will be able to find out the history of that particular unit.


It looks to me like you got a dealer or show demo unit, which of course is not correct. I've no way to know how that might have happened. In any event, the tech support guys will get things sorted out for you.


We've had one prior report here of a customer getting what was obviously a used unit in a factory sealed box (i.e., not something that happened at the dealer). The plastic protective strips over the displays were already removed, the accessories were previously opened and the remote had the batteries already installed. In that case what apparently happened is that a trade show demo unit got left in the wrong place after coming back from a show and got packed up by mistake as a new unit for shipment.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17095686
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Are there any D2V/AVM50v owners that are utilizing both HDMI outputs that can comment on the how well the parallel implementation works. I will be connecting a 1080p JVC RS20 and a 40" 1080p LCD to the Anthem. I will probably never use them simultaneously but am looking for any feedback.
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> The manual states that when using two sub's (using both of the subwoofer outputs) with ARC that the 2 subwoofer setting should not be used during setup. What would be the proper setting when using both sub outputs (or two subwoofers) and ARC?
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



When using ARC with one or more subwoofers, always set your Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie (or Music) > Subs to "1 Sub", just as the Manual states.


Just so you know, all the 2 Subs setting does is reduce the volume on both Sub outputs to make it easier to use the manual test tones and speaker volume trims. But that gets in the way of what ARC is Measuring for you.


ARC will hear the output from all of your subwoofers simultaneously, so it will set the correct levels for the combo so long as you have "1 Sub" set. This is true even if you use all 4 Sub outputs from the Anthem (2 RCA and 2 XLR).

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17095963
> 
> 
> When using ARC with one or more subwoofers, always set your Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie (or Music) > Subs to "1 Sub", just as the Manual states.
> 
> 
> Just so you know, all the 2 Subs setting does is reduce the volume on both Sub outputs to make it easier to use the manual test tones and speaker volume trims. But that gets in the way of what ARC is Measuring for you.
> 
> 
> ARC will hear the output from all of your subwoofers simultaneously, so it will set the correct levels for the combo so long as you have "1 Sub" set. This is true even if you use all 4 Sub outputs from the Anthem (2 RCA and 2 XLR).
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


That's what I figured. Thanks for the confirmation Bob...



Cheers,


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ironcorn* /forum/post/17095539
> 
> 
> Just received my 17 1/4 D2v, sounds great, big step up from the AVM 30 and works fine so far, HDMI handshakes aside.
> 
> 
> Issues: Quailty control! Did I get a rebuilt D1?



I'm curious to the S/N on your unit. I just picked up a replacement D2v for my defective unit I received in July. The original unit had a S/N of XXXXX1735 and replacement unit had S/N somewhere in the mid 1900's. The new arrived at my dealer the middle of last week.


I didn't notice anything like yours on my unit but I'm going to take a much closer look at it when I get home tonight.


----------



## ironcorn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17095913
> 
> 
> 
> It looks to me like you got a dealer or show demo unit, which of course is not correct. I've no way to know how that might have happened. In any event, the tech support guys will get things sorted out for you.
> 
> 
> We've had one prior report here of a customer getting what was obviously a used unit in a factory sealed box (i.e., not something that happened at the dealer).
> 
> --Bob



I'm positive its a factory sealed box, taped, stapled and all. I ordered it on 16 July and it arrived at the dealer on 27 Aug, which is supported by the UPS lable date. He called me that morning and I picked up the still sealed box the next day. The sticker in the D2v you can see on the inside says build date of 9 Aug, so its new. I just thought the dust on the boards was strange for a new unit. Maybe last one built on a Friday?

Anyway, it does sound great and I'll enjoy it until it gets resolved. I've had Anthems in the home since the AVM 2.


----------



## NOCAL

I am using this XM tuner with the AVM 50v (and wow-digital coax out of the XRT to the Anthem and processed really is great), but my question would have a common answer with D2v owners. I am running the video out of the tuner into the Anthem (composite) and can't get any onscreen display via HDMI to a Pioneer Plasma (1080p).


I have tried setting the screen resolution out of the Anthem to all the 60hz choices and no luck. Also, I don't know if the video output from the XRT12 is considered Data. But I have also selected different data rendering settings. The XRT12 has 3 choices for its own OSD: one of them is scrolling, but I don't know if this has anything to do with what would be output throught composite video out.


Either way, I get no OSD. Is it the Display, Anthem processor, or the XRT? Anybody with some experience in this would be great! Thanks

Eric


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NOCAL* /forum/post/17097116
> 
> 
> I am using this XM tuner with the AVM 50v (and wow-digital coax out of the XRT to the Anthem and processed really is great), but my question would have a common answer with D2v owners. I am running the video out of the tuner into the Anthem (composite) and can't get any onscreen display via HDMI to a Pioneer Plasma (1080p).
> 
> 
> I have tried setting the screen resolution out of the Anthem to all the 60hz choices and no luck. Also, I don't know if the video output from the XRT12 is considered Data. But I have also selected different data rendering settings. The XRT12 has 3 choices for its own OSD: one of them is scrolling, but I don't know if this has anything to do with what would be output throught composite video out.
> 
> 
> Either way, I get no OSD. Is it the Display, Anthem processor, or the XRT? Anybody with some experience in this would be great! Thanks
> 
> Eric



The problem is that you are using a composite input on the D2v.


The composite video inputs are not "processed". They are just pass through to the composite video output. See Section 2.1 of the Manual.


So the composite video input doesn't get digitized or scaled or converted to HDMI output.


The workaround is to go to Radio Shack and get an inexpensive composite video to S-video converter. This is a simple gizmo that attaches to the end of the composite video cable. Plug the S-video coming out of the other end into an S-video input in your AVM-50v.


NOTE: Be sure to get a composite video to S-video converter. An S-video to composite adapter -- connected up backwards -- isn't the same thing and won't do the trick.


In Setup > Source Setup for the Polk source, send the S-video input to the Scaler, and voila, it will show up on your HDMI.


Of course if your Polk has an S-video output, then just use that.

--Bob


----------



## NOCAL

Thanks Bob, will do that-and no the Polk doesn't have S-video. I imagine since what is the point for a small data stream!


----------



## osofast240sx

what does the 32 bit DACs offer over the 24 bit DACs?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Anthem D2v w/ ARC is a finalist in the "Best New Product" category for CEDIA, 2009. Ten "Best New Product" winners will be announced at the show in Atlanta on September 12:

http://www.cedia.net/awards/2009_finalists-expo.php 


So far, I've not been able to locate any press releases pre-announcing what Anthem will show at CEDIA.


The CEDIA exhibitors list says Anthem will be showing in booth 3325 in Building C. I would not be surprised if they also have an audio demonstration setup in a hotel suite nearby, but I haven't found that listed yet. CEDIA starts on September 9.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dang! Anthem has a Blog! Who knew?









http://anthemelectronics.blogspot.com/ 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

And a Facebook!

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Anthem/76852556657 


--Bob


----------



## jayray

More audio dropouts from HDDVD using PCM. Superman playing TrueHD at timecodes 55:50, I got dropout first and then replaying I got a static pop. Timecode 56:02 a several second dropout. I never had this with the AVM50. Strange. Using 2.07f with D2v.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *osofast240sx* /forum/post/17097513
> 
> 
> what does the 32 bit DACs offer over the 24 bit DACs?



There is no easy answer to this. It depends too much on the details of how the DACs are used and the nature of the circuitry around them. There's also a significant issue of diminishing returns -- the limits of associated equipment (sources, amps, speakers) and of the human ear itself to produce and then hear finer and finer differences. You can measure differences with lab equipment that are beyond what the human ear can distinguish.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17100807
> 
> 
> More audio dropouts from HDDVD using PCM. Superman playing TrueHD at timecodes 55:50, I got dropout first and then replaying I got a static pop. Timecode 56:02 a several second dropout. I never had this with the AVM50. Strange. Using 2.07f with D2v.
> 
> John



Is that a point in the audio track when all channels go quiet except for the Center channel? If so, that would be an example of the bug I had previously reported (using calibration discs), where other PCM channels are lost or corrupted if there is no audio at the moment on either LF or RF.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17100708
> 
> 
> Dang! Anthem has a Blog! Who knew?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://anthemelectronics.blogspot.com/
> 
> 
> --Bob




Good catch!


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17100807
> 
> 
> More audio dropouts from HDDVD using PCM. Superman playing TrueHD at timecodes 55:50, I got dropout first and then replaying I got a static pop. Timecode 56:02 a several second dropout. I never had this with the AVM50. Strange. Using 2.07f with D2v.
> 
> John



Greetings,


jayray, I see you have the Toshiba HDXA2 and are having it internally decode rather than sending the lossless audio via bitstream to the Anthem. Has bitstreaming been problematic enough that you opted to set it this way?



Regards,


----------



## scanido

Hi all,


I came across good deals on a used D2 with ARC and the price is literally in the same ballpark as a brand new AVM50v. I'm always up for brand new items but if there is a *perceivable* difference then i would get the used D2.


Here is a list of some of the features I value most in my next processor:


- Needs to be able to play new HD formats (Dolby TrueHD, DTS Master Audio) via either PCM or natively in the processor using HDMI cable

- OSD menu via HDMI interface would be nice

- Last and most important - SOUND QUALITY in 2.1 and 5.1 content.


Given this small list of things I am looking for, which would you go with: new AVM50v or used D2 with ARC??? I really do not care for any of the video features as I plan to just pass these signals through.


BTW, I have a B&W 800 series speaker setup to take advantage of any sound differences, if any!



Any advice appreciated!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/17101894
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I came across good deals on a used D2 with ARC and the price is literally in the same ballpark as a brand new AVM50v. I'm always up for brand new items but if there is a *perceivable* difference then i would get the used D2.
> 
> 
> Here is a list of some of the features I value most in my next processor:
> 
> 
> - Needs to be able to play new HD formats (Dolby TrueHD, DTS Master Audio) via either PCM or natively in the processor using HDMI cable
> 
> - OSD menu via HDMI interface would be nice
> 
> - Last and most important - SOUND QUALITY in 2.1 and 5.1 content.
> 
> 
> Given this small list of things I am looking for, which would you go with: new AVM50v or used D2 with ARC??? I really do not care for any of the video features as I plan to just pass these signals through.
> 
> 
> BTW, I have a B&W 800 series speaker setup to take advantage of any sound differences, if any!
> 
> 
> 
> Any advice appreciated!



This is tough.


The AVM 50v has a newer video processor and sports 8 HDMI inputs and 2 HDMI outputs (which always carry the same video out) vs. 4 and 1 respectively for the D2. I think you should give more weight to the video system. There is no "video pass-through" for HDMI video in these units.


The AVM 50v also has newer DSPs than the D2, supports 7.1 HDMI LPCM input vs. 5.1 on the D2, and supports HDMI Bitstream input of TrueHD and DTS-HD MA. Both units support HDMI LPCM input of those (up to 5.1 for the D2) when using a player that can do the decoding -- such as the PS3 or the Oppo.


However, I suspect the audio quality will still be better with the D2. The digital section of the D2 upsamples inputs to 192KHz (although HDMI input itself is limited to 96KHz), and the quality of the analog input digitizing and analog conversion for speaker output are better.


Both choices come with ARC which I would say is essential, so no difference there. Both offer their OSD on HDMI video output, so no difference there.


Of course the AVM 50v comes with a full, new product warranty. One thing you might not be aware of is that the remaining portion of the warranty on a used D2 will only transfer to the new owner if the used purchase transaction is done by an authorized Anthem dealer. [This is true for Anthem's North America Warranty. For other countries the details may vary.]


Personally, I would not have traded my old D2 for a new AVM 50v. But then I never had a chance to play with an AVM 50v. Fortunately I was able to switch to a new D2v so it wasn't much of a struggle.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

I will be receiving my 2V end of this week and am preparing my set up, I have two questions.


1. a single DVD player via HDMI will be used to play DVD and CDs. When I want DVD I want to activate 12Vtriggers to put down the screen/ turn on the projector etc. no problem. but with this same input when i put in a CD, I DO NOT want the 12v triggers to be activated - how do I do this


2. My HDMI outs will go to a 1080P/24 projector and a 720P TV. Both will never need to be "on" at the same time; Questions

a. I assume I should put the 1080P in HDMI out 1?

b. one of the HDMI inputs will be my Cable box, many times I only want to watch the TV only and use the TV speakers so there is no need for the 2v to be used. Will the 2v simply pass this through with out turning it on? If not whats my choice.


Appreciate your input and glad to join this group. My previous system was a Meridian system. My speakers are custom "Salks" HT3, my amp is a BAT6200 (its a beast), My projector is a Panny AE3000, and my CD/DVD is a Sony Bluray.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17102113
> 
> 
> I will be receiving my 2V end of this week and am preparing my set up, I have two questions.
> 
> 
> 1. a single DVD player via HDMI will be used to play DVD and CDs. When I want DVD I want to activate 12Vtriggers to put down the screen/ turn on the projector etc. no problem. but with this same input when i put in a CD, I DO NOT want the 12v triggers to be activated - how do I do this
> 
> 
> 2. My HDMI outs will go to a 1080P/24 projector and a 720P TV. Both will never need to be "on" at the same time; Questions
> 
> a. I assume I should put the 1080P in HDMI out 1?
> 
> b. one of the HDMI inputs will be my Cable box, many times I only want to watch the TV only and use the TV speakers so there is no need for the 2v to be used. Will the 2v simply pass this through with out turning it on? If not whats my choice.
> 
> 
> Appreciate your input and glad to join this group. My previous system was a Meridian system. My speakers are custom "Salks" HT3, my amp is a BAT6200 (its a beast), My projector is a Panny AE3000, and my CD/DVD is a Sony Bluray.



First of all, it's a "D2v". Wouldn't want to confuse folks here.


1) The easiest way is to set up a separate Source definition for DVD and CD making them both refer to the same device. There's no problem having more than one Source definition refer to the same input sockets. You would probably find it most convenient to use the Source lines for DVD and CD for this. Then set your screen Trigger to apply when DVD is selected as the input and not when CD is selected.


NOTE: You can also do this sort of thing with a good, programmable remote such as the Harmony remotes. For example, I have my CD Source definition set to play video from my cable box while it plays audio from my DVD player (used as a CD player). That way I can have music while watching games on TV where I don't want to listen to the silly announcers. Then in my Harmony I have two different activities setup: One for listen to CD and one for watch TV with CD. The main difference is that the listen to CD activity doesn't turn on the display.


2) (a) The only real difference is that the On-screen Display stuff doesn't show up on HDMI 2, so plug in whichever display you'd rather have used with the On-screen Displays. Note that you can't have different video formats active at the same time, so that when you switch to 720p output it will happen on both HDMI outputs. Set up a separate Video Output configuration for your 1080p and your 720p output format and select which to use either by default in Source definitions or on-the-fly using the remote.


(b) The HDMI outputs carry a 2-channel (stereo) down-mix of whatever audio is currently selected for processing on the Main path. It is 2.0 HDMI LPCM 48Khz. It is provided specifically for use with built in stereo speakers in a display. HOWEVER, there is no way to pass audio or video signals through the D2v when it is off (i.e., in Stand-by). If you really want the D2v to be off, you'll need to separately wire around it for both audio and video (directly from the cable box to the display). For example, you might wire Component video and Optical Digitial audio to the D2v from the cable box for use with the D2v, and then separately run an HDMI feed from the cable box to a different HDMI input on the TV for direct audio and video that way when the D2v is off. This assumes your cable box will actually output Component video and Optical audio even with the HDMI connected to the TV so long as the TV doesn't have that input currently selected. Some sources disable their other outputs when they discover that HDMI is connected.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17100835
> 
> 
> Is that a point in the audio track when all channels go quiet except for the Center channel? If so, that would be an example of the bug I had previously reported (using calibration discs), where other PCM channels are lost or corrupted if there is no audio at the moment on either LF or RF.
> 
> --Bob



No sound at all when this happens. Emailed Nick.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17101777
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> jayray, I see you have the Toshiba HDXA2 and are having it internally decode rather than sending the lossless audio via bitstream to the Anthem. Has bitstreaming been problematic enough that you opted to set it this way?
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



With bitstreaming I get a loud static popping sound when FF or chapter skipping. So I decided to use pcm. Now I get dropouts and some static popping instead of the drop out at certain timecodes.

John


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks Bob, Yes I have a Nevo remote and quite comfortable with complex programing on it so this would work great. for number 1 below


Regarding #2 - interesting that no info is displayed on screen for HDMI out 2 - dont remember reading that anywhere, but I'm sure I missed it.









2a - I hope in the future they make them two independent HDMI outputs like the Integra 9.9 or Denon

2b - will the D2v all for pass through video only out of HDMI2 when turned off? if so I could run RCA audio out of the cable box. If not I could just run around the D2v for TV only viewing as you suggested.

thanks again.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17102417
> 
> 
> First of all, it's a "D2v". Wouldn't want to confuse folks here.
> 
> 
> 1) The easiest way is to set up a separate Source definition for DVD and CD making them both refer to the same device. There's no problem having more than one Source definition refer to the same input sockets. You would probably find it most convenient to use the Source lines for DVD and CD for this. Then set your screen Trigger to apply when DVD is selected as the input and not when CD is selected.
> 
> 
> NOTE: You can also do this sort of thing with a good, programmable remote such as the Harmony remotes. For example, I have my CD Source definition set to play video from my cable box while it plays audio from my DVD player (used as a CD player). That way I can have music while watching games on TV where I don't want to listen to the silly announcers. Then in my Harmony I have two different activities setup: One for listen to CD and one for watch TV with CD. The main difference is that the listen to CD activity doesn't turn on the display.
> 
> 
> 2) (a) The only real difference is that the On-screen Display stuff doesn't show up on HDMI 2, so plug in whichever display you'd rather have used with the On-screen Displays. Note that you can't have different video formats active at the same time, so that when you switch to 720p output it will happen on both HDMI outputs. Set up a separate Video Output configuration for your 1080p and your 720p output format and select which to use either by default in Source definitions or on-the-fly using the remote.
> 
> 
> (b) The HDMI outputs carry a 2-channel (stereo) down-mix of whatever audio is currently selected for processing on the Main path. It is 2.0 HDMI LPCM 48Khz. It is provided specifically for use with built in stereo speakers in a display. HOWEVER, there is no way to pass audio or video signals through the D2v when it is off (i.e., in Stand-by). If you really want the D2v to be off, you'll need to separately wire around it for both audio and video (directly from the cable box to the display). For example, you might wire Component video and Optical Digitial audio to the D2v from the cable box for use with the D2v, and then separately run an HDMI feed from the cable box to a different HDMI input on the TV for direct audio and video that way when the D2v is off. This assumes your cable box will actually output Component video and Optical audio even with the HDMI connected to the TV so long as the TV doesn't have that input currently selected. Some sources disable their other outputs when they discover that HDMI is connected.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17103367
> 
> 
> No sound at all when this happens. Emailed Nick.
> 
> John



You misunderstand. What I was asking was whether the CORRECT sound at the time of the dropout might have been a period where both LF and RF channels were SUPPOSED to be silent (all sound supposed to be in other channels)? If so, your dropout may be an example the bug I had reported.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17103679
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, Yes I have a Nevo remote and quite comfortable with complex programing on it so this would work great. for number 1 below
> 
> 
> Regarding #2 - interesting that no info is displayed on screen for HDMI out 2 - dont remember reading that anywhere, but I'm sure I missed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2a - I hope in the future they make them two independent HDMI outputs like the Integra 9.9 or Denon
> 
> 2b - will the D2v all for pass through video only out of HDMI2 when turned off? if so I could run RCA audio out of the cable box. If not I could just run around the D2v for TV only viewing as you suggested.
> 
> thanks again.



No, when the D2v is off, there is no audio or video output possible on any sockets.


The new video processor used in the D2v (and AVM 50v) has two separate data processing paths, and they both are used to produce the two HDMI outputs. Right now they are set to do identical processing. (The OSD overlay for HDMI 1 is handled separately.) So the hardware is there to support separate video output format settings.


However the hang up may be the HDMI. HDMI fan-out of one source to two displays is part of the HDMI and HDCP (copy protection) protocols, but it kind of assumes the same signal is being sent to both. At present, Anthem has avoided the issue by requiring the same signal format go to both displays. I don't know how tough it would be for them to open that up in future firmware.


My guess is we would first see them open up some of the processing options that don't alter the output data format -- e.g., separate Picture level or Scaling type controls for each output, but only one resolution and data format.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*PS3 V3.0 Software*


For anyone using a PS3 with your Anthem D2v or AVM 50v, when you install their new V3.0 software (out today) do *NOT* turn on the new "Audio Multi-Out" feature.


If you turn that on, HDMI LPCM output will be limited to only 5.1 channels. This is true even if you are using a new PS3 Slim with HDMI Bitstream selected -- i.e., you'll get 5.1 HDMI LPCM instead.


This limitation is spelled out in Sony's release notes for the new software, but it is easy to miss.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17104299
> 
> *PS3 V3.0 Software*
> 
> 
> For anyone using a PS3 with your Anthem D2v or AVM 50v, when you install their new V3.0 software (out today) do *NOT* turn on the new "Audio Multi-Out" feature.
> 
> 
> If you turn that on, HDMI LPCM output will be limited to only 5.1 channels. This is true even if you are using a new PS3 Slim with HDMI Bitstream selected -- i.e., you'll get 5.1 HDMI LPCM instead.
> 
> 
> This limitation is spelled out in Sony's release notes for the new software, but it is easy to miss.
> 
> --Bob



I just installed v3.0 on my PS3.

Is "Audio Multi-Out" OFF by default?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17104337
> 
> 
> I just installed v3.0 on my PS3.
> 
> Is "Audio Multi-Out" OFF by default?



The install on my PS3 came up with it set to OFF.


It is in the Settings > Sound Settings menu. I've confirmed that with it OFF you still do get 7.1 HDMI LPCM into the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17104348
> 
> 
> The install on my PS3 came up with it set to OFF.
> 
> 
> It is in the Settings > Sound Settings menu. I've confirmed that with it OFF you still do get 7.1 HDMI LPCM into the D2v.
> 
> --Bob



Maybe in my case - it would not matter because the

D2 can only do 5.1 anyway


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17104482
> 
> 
> Maybe in my case - it would not matter because the
> 
> D2 can only do 5.1 anyway



I've not been able to find any confirmation that the 5.1 output forced by turning on this setting is identical to the 5.1 down-mix that happens when you play 7.1 content into the D2.


Until that is confirmed, even D2 and AVM 50 owners should play it safe and leave "Audio Multi-out" OFF in the new, PS3 V3.0 software.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It appears that PS3 V3.0 5.1 output (from turning on Audio Multi-out) may also be limited to 48KHz. I've not yet confirmed whether the full lossless tracks are decoded for it or just the compatibility tracks.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17103816
> 
> 
> You misunderstand. What I was asking was whether the CORRECT sound at the time of the dropout might have been a period where both LF and RF channels were SUPPOSED to be silent (all sound supposed to be in other channels)? If so, your dropout may be an example the bug I had reported.
> 
> --Bob



No. The sound was a gattling gun firing which is normally a lot of front, centre and sub sound. The other example was also all fronts firing.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17104557
> 
> 
> 
> Until that is confirmed, even D2 and AVM 50 owners should play it safe and leave "Audio Multi-out" OFF in the new, PS3 V3.0 software.
> 
> --Bob



IT is confirmed OFF - Mr. Anthem Wizard


----------



## Bob Pariseau

THAT type of audio cutout is more typical of a bug in the player.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17104692
> 
> 
> IT is confirmed OFF - Mr. Anthem Wizard



Very good, Tommy. Now hand me that car battery, the beaker of magnesium, and the iguana, and we'll begin the next experiment!









--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17100650
> 
> 
> The Anthem D2v w/ ARC is a finalist in the "Best New Product" category for CEDIA, 2009. Ten "Best New Product" winners will be announced at the show in Atlanta on September 12:
> 
> http://www.cedia.net/awards/2009_finalists-expo.php
> 
> 
> So far, I've not been able to locate any press releases pre-announcing what Anthem will show at CEDIA.
> 
> 
> The CEDIA exhibitors list says Anthem will be showing in booth 3325 in Building C. I would not be surprised if they also have an audio demonstration setup in a hotel suite nearby, but I haven't found that listed yet. CEDIA starts on September 9.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I have found this so far regarding cedia.
http://blog.ultimateavmag.com/cedia2009/


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yeah, but nothing new in that.


The pre-show press releases should hit any day now.


Anthem's PR firm is Caster Communications.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17104960
> 
> 
> THAT type of audio cutout is more typical of a bug in the player.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

If it is the player, why did I not experience it with my AVM50. I have played the Superman hddvd many times without a blip until now.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17105232
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> If it is the player, why did I not experience it with my AVM50. I have played the Superman hddvd many times without a blip until now.
> 
> John



The D2v passes different EDID info to the player (up to 7.1 channels, up to 192KHz). Perhaps that has something to do with it.


But in my experience, audio dropouts that happen at points of bright screen flash, or at points of high dynamics in the audio are most often player problems. I.e., the dropout is happening due to high data rate in the combined audio/video stream coming off the disc.


Now if we could play that disc on another HD-DVD player to see if the dropout still occurs, that would be very informative.

--Bob


----------



## ragdog

Again, what do you do with the iguana????



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17104974
> 
> 
> Very good, Tommy. Now hand me that car battery, the beaker of magnesium, and the iguana, and we'll begin the next experiment!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well you don't do ANYTHING until the case of Scotch arrives AND you are sure the sprinklers are functional...

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Glutton for punishment that I am, I'm still using the "test" V2.07g firmware, and I've got another odd problem that didn't exist with "test" V2.07f:


If I view HDMI 1080p/23.976 YCbCr 4:4:4 input video long enough (e.g., the length of a typical movie), then I can no longer get Component or S-video input to display. I just get a black screen. The Select and Video Source Adjust displays show without problem and the status values are correct for the analog video input that should be showing.


The Setup menu also doesn't display. (It is an internally generated S-video source, so that's consistent.)


Audio plays properly throughout this.


Changing inputs doesn't cure this. Switching input resolutions using the Component video from my Comcast box also doesn't cure this. In fact I've found no way to cure it once it gets into this state except to power cycle the D2v.


Viewing for just a few minutes before switching to an analog video input doesn't show this problem. And I'm not certain, but I think that viewing HDMI 1080p/59.94 video input for an extended period also doesn't produce this problem.


Anthem has been informed.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/17101894
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I came across good deals on a used D2 with ARC and the price is literally in the same ballpark as a brand new AVM50v. I'm always up for brand new items but if there is a *perceivable* difference then i would get the used D2.
> 
> 
> Here is a list of some of the features I value most in my next processor:
> 
> 
> - Needs to be able to play new HD formats (Dolby TrueHD, DTS Master Audio) via either PCM or natively in the processor using HDMI cable
> 
> - OSD menu via HDMI interface would be nice
> 
> - Last and most important - SOUND QUALITY in 2.1 and 5.1 content.
> 
> 
> Given this small list of things I am looking for, which would you go with: new AVM50v or used D2 with ARC??? I really do not care for any of the video features as I plan to just pass these signals through.
> 
> 
> BTW, I have a B&W 800 series speaker setup to take advantage of any sound differences, if any!
> 
> 
> 
> Any advice appreciated!



unless you really need 8 inputs and 2 outputs and if your blu-ray player does not decode DTS-MA, I would rather have the sound quality improvement offered by the D2.


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17106139
> 
> 
> If I view HDMI 1080p/23.976 YCbCr 4:4:4 input video long enough (e.g., the length of a typical movie), then I can no longer get Component or S-video input to display. I just get a black screen. The Select and Video Source Adjust displays show without problem and the status values are correct for the analog video input that should be showing.
> 
> 
> The Setup menu also doesn't display. (It is an internally generated S-video source, so that's consistent.)
> 
> 
> Audio plays properly throughout this.
> 
> 
> Changing inputs doesn't cure this. Switching input resolutions using the Component video from my Comcast box also doesn't cure this. In fact I've found no way to cure it once it gets into this state except to power cycle the D2v.
> 
> 
> Viewing for just a few minutes before switching to an analog video input doesn't show this problem. And I'm not certain, but I think that viewing HDMI 1080p/59.94 video input for an extended period also doesn't produce this problem.
> 
> 
> Anthem has been informed.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I had this same issue two nights ago with the release version 2.07. About a 1/4 of the way through a movie I wanted to check something on my replacement D2v and could not get the setup menu to display, just a black screen. I tried everything you did and no luck. Like you, I ended up having to power it off and on, then the settings menu displayed fine. I was watching a movie using the BDP-83 feeding 1080p/24 to the D2v and 1080p/60 output to my display.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/17106761
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I had this same issue two nights ago with the release version 2.07. About a 1/4 of the way through a movie I wanted to check something on my replacement D2v and could not get the setup menu to display, just a black screen. I tried everything you did and no luck. Like you, I ended up having to power it off and on, then the settings menu displayed fine. I was watching a movie using the BDP-83 feeding 1080p/24 to the D2v and 1080p/60 output to my display.



That's interesting, because I used V2.07 and then V2.07f extensively before installing the current "test" V2.07g, and I never experienced this problem until now.


I always switch back to my Comcast input after finishing a Blu-Ray session, so I'm sure I would have noticed it -- particularly since it requires a power cycle to cure.

--Bob


----------



## WildZero

Hello,


I just got my Anthem D2V.

Sadly i think something is wrong with one of the HDMI outputs. When using HDMI1 i get strange red and sometime greenish "blocks"

in the picture. Those spots are always there, tried all combinations: TV, Projector, Blu-ray, DVD, different

cables... even in the D2Vs on screen menu those red things show up.

When using HDMI2 everything is fine.

Am i doing something wrong with the video settings or is the HDMI1 output not working correctly?


Sample picture:










And yes i saw the warning sticker about being carefull with the HDMI connectors.

I was VERY carefull









All cables i tried are quite new and in top condition.


Any help is greatly appreciated









Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That looks pretty bad, but there might be a simple fix.


Try re-installing the firmware (download from the Anthem web site).


If that doesn't fix it, then give Anthem tech support a call as you likely have a hardware problem. You'll find them very accomodating.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17105343
> 
> 
> The D2v passes different EDID info to the player (up to 7.1 channels, up to 192KHz). Perhaps that has something to do with it.
> 
> 
> But in my experience, audio dropouts that happen at points of bright screen flash, or at points of high dynamics in the audio are most often player problems. I.e., the dropout is happening due to high data rate in the combined audio/video stream coming off the disc.
> 
> 
> Now if we could play that disc on another HD-DVD player to see if the dropout still occurs, that would be very informative.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Is it possible the hdmi cable from my XA2 could be the problem?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17108624
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Is it possible the hdmi cable from my XA2 could be the problem?
> 
> John



It's certainly worth a try. Never underestimate how the HDMI cables can screw things up.


As I recall the XA2 was one of the first HDMI V1.3 devices, and of course your old AVM 50 was HDMI V1.1. It could be possible the XA2 is trying to send 36-bit video to your D2v and the cable isn't up to it. There's also 7.1 vs. 5.1 audio.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/17107967
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I just got my Anthem D2V.
> 
> Sadly i think something is wrong with one of the HDMI outputs. When using HDMI1 i get strange red and sometime greenish "blocks"
> 
> in the picture. Those spots are always there, tried all combinations: TV, Projector, Blu-ray, DVD, different
> 
> cables... even in the D2Vs on screen menu those red things show up.
> 
> When using HDMI2 everything is fine.
> 
> Am i doing something wrong with the video settings or is the HDMI1 output not working correctly?
> 
> 
> Sample picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes i saw the warning sticker about being carefull with the HDMI connectors.
> 
> I was VERY carefull
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All cables i tried are quite new and in top condition.
> 
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Hello WildZero,

I had the same problem when I received my replacement unit from Anthem. HDMI 1 had the same picture as yours and HDMI 2 was good. I talked to Piero about it and he told me how to open the cover and make sure the small board for HDMI 1 that sits on the video card is leveled and properly inserted. I checked that and everything was good but the picture was just like yours. Then it was confirmed that the video board was no good.

So either your HDMI 1 board is not insterted properly or your vido board needs to be replaced. I vote for the video board to be replaced. Seems like the video board is very sensitive piece. I think Anthem should check those very carefully before shipping them.


----------



## WildZero

Hello,


Thanks for your help! I feared it is something with the video board.

I will talk to my dealer before i open the D2V, its brand new and i do not

want to loose warranty.

At least i know now it has nothing to do with the video settings.


Thanks again


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/17109698
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help! I feared it is something with the video board.
> 
> I will talk to my dealer before i open the D2V, its brand new and i do not
> 
> want to loose warranty.
> 
> At least i know now it has nothing to do with the video settings.
> 
> 
> Thanks again



Bummer!! I will receive my D2v friday, I hope its ok! You guys worry me!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Discovered an old bug FIXED in "test" V2.07g.


In the older firmware, HDMI Bitstream of the 7.1 DTS-HD HR track from the "Dragon Encounter" bonus feature on "Sleeping Beauty" Blu-Ray got seen by the D2v as only 5.1 whenever you only had 5.1 speakers configured in the D2v.


With V2.07g, that track is now reported as 7.1 DTS-HD HR 48KHz even if only 5.1 speakers are configured.

--Bob


----------



## abc999

I am using 2.07f and it frustrating that whenever I change from 24 to 60 fps and vice versa, the audio is lossed. Changing the source does not cut it, I sometime go to the menu(subwoofer)section and it comes back once in a while. If it does not then I have to power down. In some instances 2 power cycles are needed. The audio HDMI handshake is really a problem right now, this did not happen with my old D2.


It has been half a year already and where's Dolby Volume?


----------



## dmusoke

All:


As an owner of the AVM50v, let me say first say that I am definately well pleased with the sonic and video scaling qualities and really do not feel left out, like an unwanted step child, for not getting the fancier D2v. I really do not think my ears and high quality 5.1 system, can resolve the differences between these two high-end players(YMMV). IMHO, ARC equalizes the differences between 'the rich and the poor' so both D2v & 50v owners get the sense sense of pleasure from their systems (I'm assuming we all have fairly revealing HT sets).


Now, that said, with all the posts that I have read on this forum vis-a-vis the D2v and 50v, I am extremely disappointed by the Anthems QC abilities. I mean, how can you send a customer a dead unit? Really!!! How can this even be possible for a company like Anthem selling high end and high-priced multi-kilobuck processors?


I design pluggable high-speed 10G and beyond hot pluggable optical transceivers and the dread of sending our many telecomm customers dead or marginal units would only cost me my job, but the company millions of dollars. We perform numerous tests on the production floor to ensure not only the absence of DOA units, but that we are able to fully transmit and receive error-free transmit within 1ms. This is in addition to usual littany of numerous timing, optical and electrical tests. No unit can ship that has failed any of these tests. Should a customer inform us of a malfuctioning unit, we send him/her the production test data and it always winds up that the customer didn't configure their systems properly.


I say all the above to say that either they need to seriously beef up their QC department. EIther hire more people or better people. If QC finds that the failure rates are unacceptably high, then its back to the design board.


I understand problems due to new beta software that try to resolve current issues, but IMHO, HW problems such as mechanical or electrical for these kind of products are simply not acceptable. I loath to think that many owners in this thread or otherwise are simply putting up with the issues of these units or blaming other components in their systems. In my simple system using the Oppo BlueRay player and Comcast cable box, I can't recall how many times I had to power-cycle my 50v to fix my audio/video problem, I am still using the original 2.07 software. Switching inputs rarely solves my problems. I use high quality HDMI certified 1.3a cables and port savers from monoprice with no cables over 10ft. I patiently choke this up hopping that Bob and others will come accross the same problem and have Anthem fix it in a later update.


Sorry for the rant but this has been boiling up in me for the past 2 months as problems seem to be getting worse! _Despite all this_, I do not regret the purchase of my 50v since I believe, IMO, it has no equal. I just hope I can relax and use it without keeping one eye on it anticipating a glitch of somekind










BTW:


Not that there's something wrong with it, but is Anthem using AVS as a beta testing community, much like how Oppo did it with their BlueRay BDP-83?


----------



## snweiler

I love my Anthem gear but every time my wife and kids have a problem I always get the same question: "How much did this cost?". They just want to be able to turn on our D2v and have it work correctly every time.


I think that Anthem makes great gear (when it works right!) but I think they have used up a lot of customer capital with all of their hardware and software problems.


Steve


----------



## aramb

I received my AVM50v today and got it installed in my rack. The ARC files shipped on the CD are labeled for Serial #412047 and my unit's serial number is actually 142047. A little dyslexia at the factory, I guess. Anyway, as you can imagine, the software does not like this and cannot find the files. I tried renaming the files to the correct serial number, but that only resulted in another error that I did not have the correct microphone. Is there a workaround for this, or, do I need to get new files sent to me from Anthem?


Incidentally, my unit was also shipped with no power cord, remote control, or the AM/FM antennas. Not a big deal, just a bit of an inconvenience.


I will say that even without any adjustments, the sound seems noticeably better. Dialog is clearer. I have not had a chance to get into the video scaling functions much at this point, but, it seems very stable switching from one HDMI source to another. Only once did I get a glitch (color was green), and all I had to do was select another input and then go back to it.


Overall, it seems like an impressive machine!!! Now, if I could just get this blasted ARC to work!!!


Oh yeah, one other thing... the label on the back panel of the processor does not say AVM50v, but rather it says Statement D2v. I found that interesting. Too bad the front doesn't say D2v as well!


AramB


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Call Anthem tech support tomorrow and they'll be able to email to you the two ARC licensing/calibration files you need. Have your unit serial number and your ARC mic serial number handy. It might also be good to have the two files that were shipped to you handy.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17111767
> 
> 
> I am using 2.07f and it frustrating that whenever I change from 24 to 60 fps and vice versa, the audio is lossed. Changing the source does not cut it, I sometime go to the menu(subwoofer)section and it comes back once in a while. If it does not then I have to power down. In some instances 2 power cycles are needed. The audio HDMI handshake is really a problem right now, this did not happen with my old D2.
> 
> 
> It has been half a year already and where's Dolby Volume?



How are you switching between 24fps and 60fps? Separate Video Output configurations or "Frame Lock"?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snweiler* /forum/post/17111926
> 
> 
> I love my Anthem gear but every time my wife and kids have a problem I always get the same question: "How much did this cost?". They just want to be able to turn on our D2v and have it work correctly every time.
> 
> 
> I think that Anthem makes great gear (when it works right!) but I think they have used up a lot of customer capital with all of their hardware and software problems.
> 
> 
> Steve



Folks with an archeological bent might find it interesting to look back in this thread to about this time in 2006, when the original D2 was new. The parallels are uncanny....










--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

OK Bob:

So you say all this is all deja-vu for Anthem when they originally released the D2. What then did they learn from that episode? It seems to me they learnt nothing at all regarding their quality procedures and customer angst toward their processors. I mean, they advertise it as a creme-de-la creme amongst pre-pros (which honestly could well be true) but end up giving us products of questionable reliability????


As a HW deisgner myself, I know nowadays that our job has been simplified greatly (except for the ever shrinking time pressures management impose on us). You want to add to an excellent image processor? Fine, call up Sigma Designs and they'll give you working and tested code for their VXP processor along with PCB fabrication files for their VXP evaluation board. Simply copy and paste into your design, change bits here and there as necessary, and you have a working imaging board. You need robust True Dolby/DTS HD audio algorithms? No problem, they come standard(if you want to) in the ROMS of the dual Motorola DSP chips used for audio decoding. You have HDMI issues? Practically all HDMI is implemented using Silicon Image VastLane HDMI transceiver chips (as they were part of the genesis of the lovely HDMI standard). Their implementation of the HDMI standard is stable as it can ever be.


So we have the engineer putting together 3 or 4 stable subsystems into a final product. They could add some customizations code in their system, like the sweet sounding Anthem Music/Cinema algorithms and a few others to add value to the product. They do not have to write DSP complex code from scratch or figure out how to get an optimum PCB layout since this has already been done for them by Sigma Designs, Silicon Image and Motorola (and others as well). As I said, the really hard work has already been done for them, so that's why I'm honestly baffled with the relentless HW/SW bugs these D2v/50v seem to exhibit!










I really hope they did not un-necessarily re-inventing the wheel when they designed these new units.


Anyway, I know there's pretty much nothing forum members can do about it and please forgive the tone of my post if it sounds somewhat unpleasant. Its not my intent to spread venomous rants on forums. Its just that I painfully saved up a big bunch to pay for the 50v and had to trade in my lovely and trusty AVM30 as well to afford this new purchase based on magazine and forum reviews. And I end up a rather buggy new unit










OK...BTW, just in case you are wondering and asking yourself "what does this guy expect me to do his problems?", the answer is absolutely nothing







If you have some weight with Anthem, please relay to them some of the customer frustrations we've all experienced and how unnacceptable they are to the general public.


And most of all, thanks a really, really BIG bunch for all the charitable contributions you have provided in this forum especially (as well as the Oppo forum). Believe me, we do appreciate the blood, tears and sweat you've put in this forum for years. This indeed must be a work of love for you since you ain't paid by Anthem to do what you do(?







?)


David


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17112271
> 
> 
> How are you switching between 24fps and 60fps? Separate Video Output configurations or "Frame Lock"?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I use separate configurations. I use the shortcut button to toggle between 2 configs. Framelock does not work with my PS3, the unit will not handshake with the Anthem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17112718
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I use separate configurations. I use the shortcut button to toggle between 2 configs. Framelock does not work with my PS3, the unit will not handshake with the Anthem.



What are you using for cables? The PS3 sends 36 bit video and 7.1 channel audio to the D2v compared to 24 bit and 5.1 to the D2. The audio can be higher bit rate as well. The set of problems you are describing could all be the result of marginal HDMI cabling for these higher data rates.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dmusoke,

I love a good rant, but I'm not going to try to analyze Anthem's design process because I don't know enough about it. I'm just an owner. I don't work for Anthem.


But I do know that Anthem has been struggling to keep up with demand for these units way beyond their expectations, much as happened with the D2 (and despite the economy). More units are shipping now, so it is normal for us to see more problem reports in this thread. The same thing happened during the waves of D2 shipment. People with problems find this thread.


You don't know the real statistics on problem units any more than I do.


My point is, the number and type of HARDWARE problem reports we're seeing here are not, in my estimation, out of the normal for high end home theater gear given that the sample we see in this thread is inherently biased. I.e., folks with problems are more likely to post.


On the SOFTWARE side, the new units have a ways to go yet. But as I posted recently, I think Anthem is ahead of where they were at the comparable point in the D2 life cycle. Keep in mind that in this thread we frequently discuss "test" software which is of course not finished yet.


The last element is user error and user confusion. The D2v is a complicated product typically used in setups that add even more complexity. As experienced as I am with the D2 and D2v, there are still portions of them that I've just never used. And of course I use them with only my set of sources and display. I don't find it at all surprising that folks keep coming up with new ways to get confused about this stuff -- along with the usual medley of old favorites!


My advice is to take heart. Anthem has a solid track record of working through situations like this.


In the meantime, let's do what we can in this thread to help each other.

--Bob


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> I can't try what you are doing because I only use one HDMI output from my D2v. But what you describe sounds like a problem in the projector where it got itself into a state that it wouldn't respond properly to the copy protection stuff (HDCP) and thus the D2v had to mute both video outputs when it was plugged in. Now how it got into that state could be due to a problem in the D2v



Bob,


I've been busy the last days, but after watching a old Pink Panter Movie last night, making sure that the tv was functioning properly befor going to bed, this morning I turned on the tv and tv box, and there was sound but no picture this time. Then I pulled the power to the projector which was i a stand by mode, and saw a "blip" in the otherwise black screen on the telly. Then turned off the d2v and back on again (the flipping between inputs does not do it for me.) ad voila, back on.


I do think that the parallell output and the copy protection could be an issue, i.e. as part of the hdmi "handshacking issue"as you suspected. The first I will do this evening, is the get around to reinstall the 2.07 first as you suggested.


Do you know if this particular problem is adressed by Anthem? If not, do they read this forum and pick up on things...?


erikno


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17112815
> 
> 
> What are you using for cables? The PS3 sends 36 bit video and 7.1 channel audio to the D2v compared to 24 bit and 5.1 to the D2. The audio can be higher bit rate as well. The set of problems you are describing could all be the result of marginal HDMI cabling for these higher data rates.
> 
> --Bob



I use Monoprice Thick 24AWG (3ft) from source to Anthem and 20ft 22AWG to the PJ


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17112699
> 
> 
> OK Bob:
> 
> So you say all this is all deja-vu for Anthem when they originally released the D2. What then did they learn from that episode? It seems to me they learnt nothing at all regarding their quality procedures and customer angst toward their processors. I mean, they advertise it as a creme-de-la creme amongst pre-pros (which honestly could well be true) but end up giving us products of questionable reliability????
> 
> 
> As a HW deisgner myself, I know nowadays that our job has been simplified greatly (except for the ever shrinking time pressures management impose on us). You want to add to an excellent image processor? Fine, call up Sigma Designs and they'll give you working and tested code for their VXP processor along with PCB fabrication files for their VXP evaluation board. Simply copy and paste into your design, change bits here and there as necessary, and you have a working imaging board. You need robust True Dolby/DTS HD audio algorithms? No problem, they come standard(if you want to) in the ROMS of the dual Motorola DSP chips used for audio decoding. You have HDMI issues? Practically all HDMI is implemented using Silicon Image VastLane HDMI transceiver chips (as they were part of the genesis of the lovely HDMI standard). Their implementation of the HDMI standard is stable as it can ever be.
> 
> 
> So we have the engineer putting together 3 or 4 stable subsystems into a final product. They could add some customizations code in their system, like the sweet sounding Anthem Music/Cinema algorithms and a few others to add value to the product. They do not have to write DSP complex code from scratch or figure out how to get an optimum PCB layout since this has already been done for them by Sigma Designs, Silicon Image and Motorola (and others as well). As I said, the really hard work has already been done for them, so that's why I'm honestly baffled with the relentless HW/SW bugs these D2v/50v seem to exhibit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really hope they did not un-necessarily re-inventing the wheel when they designed these new units.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I know there's pretty much nothing forum members can do about it and please forgive the tone of my post if it sounds somewhat unpleasant. Its not my intent to spread venomous rants on forums. Its just that I painfully saved up a big bunch to pay for the 50v and had to trade in my lovely and trusty AVM30 as well to afford this new purchase based on magazine and forum reviews. And I end up a rather buggy new unit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK...BTW, just in case you are wondering and asking yourself "what does this guy expect me to do his problems?", the answer is absolutely nothing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have some weight with Anthem, please relay to them some of the customer frustrations we've all experienced and how unnacceptable they are to the general public.
> 
> 
> And most of all, thanks a really, really BIG bunch for all the charitable contributions you have provided in this forum especially (as well as the Oppo forum). Believe me, we do appreciate the blood, tears and sweat you've put in this forum for years. This indeed must be a work of love for you since you ain't paid by Anthem to do what you do(?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?)
> 
> 
> David




I do not agree with you at all on this. I have friends who are audio/video reviewer who tried most of the Pre/pro and receiver on the markets and their conclusion is that except for anthem and a few japanese product all other products suffer severe stability problem over HDMI.


Talking about stability of subcomponents are you aware that DTS keep changing their firmware constantly. Any product who came out with a DTS solution suffers implements problems that needed firmware upgrades. It took a while for Pioneer and Denon to stabilise their implementations.


As its seams building a pre/pro is for more complicated then pasting together sample designs from 3-4 suppliers. If you are capable of doing that yourself I suggest you offer your priceless services to company that are struggling getting their first HDMI product out the door.


I read lest week these really interesting posts for James Tanner (Bryston’s VP Product Dev):





Yes we have hired 2 new software engineers - this SP3 is a lot more complicated than previous realized and I am under pressure to get this to market.


My plan is to bring the AUDIO ONLY version of the SP3 to market first and hopefully this fall. This will be a state of the art analog/digital audio player with all the basic features. As we move forward we will introduce the video version of the SP3 and then look at other features we can add as we go.


james





Correct - Audio only version.


james


PS -Iam getting reports back that many of the current processors out there now are having issues with HDMI video handshakes.








Hi Al,


Problems with the HDMI not working because it does not recognize the component attached to it - its the copy-code issue I believe.

I have just heard from a few installers that they are going back to 'component' video hookups as this whole HDMI thing is a real pain.


james


Logged


James Tanner

V/P Bryston


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17112992
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I've been busy the last days, but after watching a old Pink Panter Movie last night, making sure that the tv was functioning properly befor going to bed, this morning I turned on the tv and tv box, and there was sound but no picture this time. Then I pulled the power to the projector which was i a stand by mode, and saw a "blip" in the otherwise black screen on the telly. Then turned off the d2v and back on again (the flipping between inputs does not do it for me.) ad voila, back on.
> 
> 
> I do think that the parallell output and the copy protection could be an issue, i.e. as part of the hdmi "handshacking issue"as you suspected. The first I will do this evening, is the get around to reinstall the 2.07 first as you suggested.
> 
> 
> Do you know if this particular problem is adressed by Anthem? If not, do they read this forum and pick up on things...?
> 
> 
> erikno



You should send an email to Anthem tech support directly, particularly if you have an easily repeatable case of a problem. Although they do read this forum, that's not the same as communicating with them directly where you can give them the serial number of your product (and details of your attached sources and displays) and they can work the issue with you.


The "official" V2.07 firmware has a known problem with loss of video on power up sometimes (fixed in "test" V2.07f), however that problem is easily cured by switching inputs and back. So your problem is something else, apparently related to your second display. They've already fixed a number of issues with other displays that have peculiar response when used as a second display, and may have info about your particular display.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17113218
> 
> 
> I use Monoprice Thick 24AWG (3ft) from source to Anthem and 20ft 22AWG to the PJ



I don't know the specs on your cables. Are they labeled as HDMI V1.3 "high speed", "category 2", or "for 1080p"? Any of those 3 labels means they are supposed to have been tested against the strictest signal standards. Other HDMI cables, not labeled that way, may be just as good, but they are not required to have been tested to that strict standard. NOTE: Stricter cable design and testing standards were added as part of the HDMI V1.3 spec.


Heavy weight cables can put strain on the plug in the socket. Since the plug is only a friction fit, this can cause the plug to shift a bit, and it only takes a tiny shift to make for a marginal connection. Supporting the cable near the socket may be necessary. *LIGHTER WEIGHT HDMI CABLES OFTEN WORK BETTER!*


The HDMI setup handshake is an end to end protocol, so even though your problem is loss of audio, the problem could be on the projector connection. If you are going through wall plates or adapters, those alone could be the cause. One thing to try is to turn off the projector (you should still get audio from your sources) and then try the steps that cause loss of audio. If the audio works then that suggests the problem is on the projector side.


If the audio still fails, then I think it would be worth it to try replacing your source cables. I happen to like Blue Jeans cables (they have 2 different top end cables -- one for shorter interconnect distances and one for longer -- both inexpensive) but MonoPrice is also known to make perfectly good cables. Again, even a slight mechanical misfit or a small amount of corrosion is enough to screw up the HDMI, so a new cable may do the trick EVEN THOUGH the old cable was properly designed and manufactured.


The HDMI cable carries both high bandwidth and low bandwidth signals, and the two types of signals degrade differently in the face of cable or connection problems. If the low bandwidth signals are degrading, then the handshake has problems.


ETA: These steps are all worth trying first. However if they don't fix the problem, I suggest you talk to Anthem about possibly installing the "test" firmware. There is newer HDMI code in the "test" firmware starting with V2.07f. The current "test" version, V2.07g has some significant problems however, so it might be better to get V2.07f or wait for an even newer version. *BEWARE: THESE "TEST" FIRMWARE VERSIONS COME WITH THE "SCARY WARNING"!* If the install fails, you may have no recourse but to return the unit to the Anthem factory for corrective reprogramming!

--Bob


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/11159592
> 
> 
> You'll do this with a Custom Crop setting and Anamorphic Scaling.
> 
> 
> Go to Video Source Adjust / Crop Input, make sure that Edges Off is selected, and then select the Custom crop setting.
> 
> 
> I'm assuming your 2.35 movie fills the 16:9 frame left to right, which means it is 1920 pixels wide (in the Anthem's video buffer, which is 1920x1080p).
> 
> 
> A custom crop which produces a 2.35 aspect ratio for a frame 1920 pixels wide will be 1920/2.35 high, or 817 pixels high (in HDTV pixels, which are square in shape).
> 
> 
> So set your Custom Crop as 1920 wide by 817 high. If necessary you can adjust the vertical position either side of center, but normally you will just leave this crop centered.
> 
> 
> The Custom Crop extracts that 2.35 image from the center of the 16:9 input frame, discarding the rest of the input frame. But now the Anthem has to scale that to the video output resolution (and shape) you specified in Setup / Video Output. So how does it deal with the fact that the shapes are different?
> 
> 
> If you set Video Source Adjust / Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box, the Anthem will pad the cropped image with letter/pillar box bars as necessary to pad out the cropped shape to the specified output shape. But if you set Video Source Adjust/ Scale Out = Anamorphic, the Anthem will STRETCH the cropped shape in the direction necessary to match it to the specified output shape.
> 
> 
> So that's what you want to do. Set Scale Out = Anamorphic and the Anthem will stretch your Custom Cropped input frame -- vertically in your case, since that's what's needed to match your specified video output shape. This will distort the 2.35 movie -- making circles look like tall ovals. But your anamorphic lens reverses that distortion so that you see the movie properly on the projection screen. The Anthem also scales the source to the output resolution of course.
> 
> 
> Now keep in mind that not all "wider than wide screen" movies are precisely 2.35. Studios use a variety of aspect ratios NEAR 2.35 as well. And a perfect 2.35 Custom Crop will show a little bit of border for those, or, alternatively, a little bit of lost image. You can use just one Custom Crop for all of them or you can play around and use different crops.
> 
> 
> You might also want to widen the crop and perhaps shift it's center position vertically to account for subtitles that are in the 16:9 frame below the body of the 2.35 movie image itself.
> 
> 
> When playing around with such adjustments, it is perhaps easier to see what's going on with the crop size and centering if you leave Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box while adjusting the crop, and then switch back to Scale Out = Anamorphic for viewing. Just keep in mid that if the math for your final crop is not H/V = 2.35 (or whatever the precise aspect ratio is for the movie you are watching) then you will be distorting the movie a bit.
> 
> --Bob



Is this procedure the same whether using a native 720p or 1080p projector with the anamorphic lens? My projector is 720P... just want to make sure that 810/817 are the right numbers to use for the vertical stretch. I am assuming that by doing it this way, I do not need to select the vertical stretch aspect ratio in my projector.


AramB


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17114608
> 
> 
> Is this procedure the same whether using a native 720p or 1080p projector with the anamorphic lens? My projector is 720P... just want to make sure that 810/817 are the right numbers to use for the vertical stretch. I am assuming that by doing it this way, I do not need to select the vertical stretch aspect ratio in my projector.
> 
> 
> AramB



The crop values in the Anthem are set with respect to an imaginary full screen size of 1920x1080, regardless of the actual screen size you then scale that to.


For example my display is 768p, but the crop values are the same as if it were 1080p.


And yes if you set the crop and Anamorphic stretch in the Anthem you shouldn't need the stretch mode in your projector.

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17114232
> 
> *BEWARE: THESE "TEST" FIRMWARE VERSIONS COME WITH THE "SCARY WARNING"!* If the install fails, you may have no recourse but to return the unit to the Anthem factory for corrective reprogramming!
> 
> --Bob



I think I asked this the other day, but it got deleted along with some spam posts (hopefully deleted on accident







). Anyway has anyone gotten a 'bricked' unit because of this new firmware update? I'm still leery of installing them!


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob,

I have problem running ARC with my setup. When I run ARC under my setup, ARC does not generate any test tone and generates error. When I load the Factory Default settings, ARC works fine. What is wrong with the d2v or my setup?

I appreciate it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17115684
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> I have problem running ARC with my setup. When I run ARC under my setup, ARC does not generate any test tone and generates error. When I load the Factory Default settings, ARC works fine. What is wrong with the d2v or my setup?
> 
> I appreciate it.



If you have altered the serial connection settings in Setup, perhaps to use a serial theater controller, go set them back to the Factory Default settings while running ARC. See the picture in the Manual for those.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17116427
> 
> 
> If you have altered the serial connection settings in Setup, perhaps to use a serial theater controller, go set them back to the Factory Default settings while running ARC. See the picture in the Manual for those.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.

I have not altered the serial connection settings. They are factory default. I also talked to Piero a few minutes ago. He said it migh be because I have setup the speakers to Advance and asked me to change it back to small. I will try that later. Do you think of anything else?

Thanks,


----------



## WildZero

Hello,


A rather oldschool problem









I tried to hook up my LD Player to the Anthem D2v, picture is working fine but i can not get Dolby Digital to work.

I do have a Lexicon RF Demodulator but the D2v does not recognise the DD signal. Is the signal too "weak"?

Works fine with my old processor.


LD Player optical/ coax out (PCM or DTS) routed through the Demodulator -> OK


LD Player AC3 RF signal -> Demodulator -> Anthem does seem to recognise the incoming signal.


Its nothing that bothers me too much , but i am curious why the D2v will not accept this signal.


Thanks!


----------



## aramb

I am trying to run ARC, but my subwoofer keeps kicking off when it doesn't sense a signal. By the time I get to the second microphone position, the sub has shut down and the signal that the ARC is sending to the sub is not enough to get it to kick back on. I am not able to complete the Measure process due to this. Any suggestions on how to get around this?


AramB


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17117294
> 
> 
> I am trying to run ARC, but my subwoofer keeps kicking off when it doesn't sense a signal. By the time I get to the second microphone position, the sub has shut down and the signal that the ARC is sending to the sub is not enough to get it to kick back on. I am not able to complete the Measure process due to this. Any suggestions on how to get around this?
> 
> 
> AramB



No Kidding or Joking here - that is NOT a Sub I would want to OWN.

I honestly never heard of a Sub with that FEATURE and I'm Mr. SUB










I have 3 channels of Subs (8) all together and 20,000 watts total.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17117294
> 
> 
> I am trying to run ARC, but my subwoofer keeps kicking off when it doesn't sense a signal. By the time I get to the second microphone position, the sub has shut down and the signal that the ARC is sending to the sub is not enough to get it to kick back on. I am not able to complete the Measure process due to this. Any suggestions on how to get around this?
> 
> 
> AramB



Greetings,


Aram, turn off the Auto On signal sensing feature on the sub and set the sub simply to On. Be sure that you followed the directions regarding proper adjustment of the Sub level setting in your Anthem prior to running ARC. This may explain why the output is so low that the signal sensing circuitry in your sub is not detecting it.



Regards,


----------



## aramb

There is not a way to defeat the Auto function (that I know of). It is a Legacy Audio LFExtreme. It has Off and Auto/ON positions. I have a call in to Legacy, but they are already closed today. Frustrating.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17117515
> 
> 
> It is a Legacy Audio LFExtreme.



It looks like a very nice sub - good down to 10 Hz - they claim.


But there has to be a way to bypass that auto-on feature.


----------



## Johnsteph10

I tried to search but nothing specifically came up....


I want to put the D2v in my rack using a custom Middle Atlantic faceplace (so it looks the same compared to my other components).


Is the D2v the same dimensions as the D2? I ask because it doesn't look like there is a D2v faceplate yet while there is one for the D2.


Thanks.


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/17117914
> 
> 
> I tried to search but nothing specifically came up....
> 
> 
> I want to put the D2v in my rack using a custom Middle Atlantic faceplace (so it looks the same compared to my other components).
> 
> 
> Is the D2v the same dimensions as the D2? I ask because it doesn't look like there is a D2v faceplate yet while there is one for the D2.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



check your pm


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/17117914
> 
> 
> I tried to search but nothing specifically came up....
> 
> 
> I want to put the D2v in my rack using a custom Middle Atlantic faceplace (so it looks the same compared to my other components).
> 
> 
> Is the D2v the same dimensions as the D2? I ask because it doesn't look like there is a D2v faceplate yet while there is one for the D2.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



John I sent you an updated pm


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17114232
> 
> 
> I don't know the specs on your cables. Are they labeled as HDMI V1.3 "high speed", "category 2", or "for 1080p"? Any of those 3 labels means they are supposed to have been tested against the strictest signal standards. Other HDMI cables, not labeled that way, may be just as good, but they are not required to have been tested to that strict standard. NOTE: Stricter cable design and testing standards were added as part of the HDMI V1.3 spec.
> 
> 
> Heavy weight cables can put strain on the plug in the socket. Since the plug is only a friction fit, this can cause the plug to shift a bit, and it only takes a tiny shift to make for a marginal connection. Supporting the cable near the socket may be necessary. *LIGHTER WEIGHT HDMI CABLES OFTEN WORK BETTER!*
> 
> 
> The HDMI setup handshake is an end to end protocol, so even though your problem is loss of audio, the problem could be on the projector connection. If you are going through wall plates or adapters, those alone could be the cause. One thing to try is to turn off the projector (you should still get audio from your sources) and then try the steps that cause loss of audio. If the audio works then that suggests the problem is on the projector side.
> 
> 
> If the audio still fails, then I think it would be worth it to try replacing your source cables. I happen to like Blue Jeans cables (they have 2 different top end cables -- one for shorter interconnect distances and one for longer -- both inexpensive) but MonoPrice is also known to make perfectly good cables. Again, even a slight mechanical misfit or a small amount of corrosion is enough to screw up the HDMI, so a new cable may do the trick EVEN THOUGH the old cable was properly designed and manufactured.
> 
> 
> The HDMI cable carries both high bandwidth and low bandwidth signals, and the two types of signals degrade differently in the face of cable or connection problems. If the low bandwidth signals are degrading, then the handshake has problems.
> 
> 
> ETA: These steps are all worth trying first. However if they don't fix the problem, I suggest you talk to Anthem about possibly installing the "test" firmware. There is newer HDMI code in the "test" firmware starting with V2.07f. The current "test" version, V2.07g has some significant problems however, so it might be better to get V2.07f or wait for an even newer version. *BEWARE: THESE "TEST" FIRMWARE VERSIONS COME WITH THE "SCARY WARNING"!* If the install fails, you may have no recourse but to return the unit to the Anthem factory for corrective reprogramming!
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, The cables are the top cables that monoprice sell and yes they are rated 1.3b Category 2 and 1080p compliant. The thick PJ cable is supported to minimize strain to the HDMI inputs, but then again I will check when I get home and try the procedure you suggested with the PJ's connection.


I have 2.07f installed, did not upgrade to 2.07g as per your experiences with it.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/17117914
> 
> 
> I tried to search but nothing specifically came up....
> 
> 
> I want to put the D2v in my rack using a custom Middle Atlantic faceplace (so it looks the same compared to my other components).
> 
> 
> Is the D2v the same dimensions as the D2? I ask because it doesn't look like there is a D2v faceplate yet while there is one for the D2.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



As far as I would GUESS - you can buy an Anthem D2v that comes

with Rack Mount. The D2's has that Option. I got a special deal on

my D2, so it was NOT a Rack Mount. I did my OWN Conversion of

the D2 to Rack mount and I published my pictures somewhere in

this forum at least two years ago when I got my Version 1 - D2.

*Here is my Post - I found it
*


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/17117914
> 
> 
> I tried to search but nothing specifically came up....
> 
> 
> I want to put the D2v in my rack using a custom Middle Atlantic faceplace (so it looks the same compared to my other components).
> 
> 
> Is the D2v the same dimensions as the D2? I ask because it doesn't look like there is a D2v faceplate yet while there is one for the D2.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



It is the exact same casing.


This PDF show the 3 available D2V models.

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...l_Versions.pdf


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/17117914
> 
> 
> I tried to search but nothing specifically came up....
> 
> 
> I want to put the D2v in my rack using a custom Middle Atlantic faceplace (so it looks the same compared to my other components).
> 
> 
> Is the D2v the same dimensions as the D2? I ask because it doesn't look like there is a D2v faceplate yet while there is one for the D2.
> 
> 
> Thanks.


*Tolstoi has confirmed* what I thought was correct.


There is NO NEED for any *Custom Middle Atlantic faceplace*


----------



## dmusoke

Tolstoi:

Thanks for the enlighting email from Bryston about the complexities they are having with this complex and sad HDMI protocol. For a standard that's been around a while and having gone thru several revisions, its really sad none of these revisions addressed the the fundamental issues that make this protocol so unreliable. Oh well, I'll have to set my expectations for complex HT much lower next time










Bob:

Thanks for the comforting words and again, I apologize if my rant seemed toxic. I just had different expectations from my 50v since my former AVM30 was trouble-free for years. You are right, Anthem will eventually fix their issues and hopefully, within a year or so, all will be fine










David


----------



## aramb

Here is an update on the progress with my new AVM50v:


I figured out a workaround with my sub which kept turning off when not sensing a signal during the ARC sinewave sweeps. I basically had to recycle the power switch right before each sweep and that worked. There should be a better way to accomplish this and I have a call into Legacy Audio this morning to resolve that issue.


I do not know how accurate my results are since the USB cable supplied with the ARC microphone was defective. I kid you not... a defective USB cable! The only USB cables I had in the house with a mini-USB plug on them were from my Blackberry (short cable) and my camera (even shorter). So, my computer sat right at the base of the microphone stand with me crouched below it to activate the sinewave cycles. I am sure that has affected the frequency responses!!!


All that being said, when I finally got everything uploaded to the AVM, I was literally BLOWN AWAY! The problem I have had with unclear dialog was completely eliminated. The soundstage improved dramatically. The LFE channel was balanced much smoother throughout the frequency range. Surround effects blended much better with the front soundstage. Absolutely incredible. When my wife got home, she came down to the mancave and within 30 seconds she remarked how much better it sounded (thank goodness!).


One little issue that has me perplexed... When I switch to the HDMI input that I have my Rotel RDV-1092 DVD player connected to, I hear soft popping continuously coming randomly from different channels. It does not matter what the volume is set to. I do not notice it when playing material (maybe because the popping is so soft, or perhaps it is not there when source material is played). Only when the input is selected, the DVD player is on, and it is paused or stopped do I notice it. I probably can work around this by using the digital outputs and the 6-channel analog output for the DVD-A, but I was hoping to eliminate all that spaghetti with the one HDMI cable. Any suggestions as to what may be causing this?


Overall, I am really pleased with this unit. It has been a dream of my for many years to own an Anthem processor and it has certainly been worth the wait!


Now I just need to wait a little longer for Anthem to send me a remote control, replacement USB cable, power cord, and some other little things that were missing out of the box!










P.S. Thanks to Nick at Anthem for getting me the replacement ARC files so quickly! Much appreciated! Also, thanks for expediting the shipment of the missing accessories kit.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters*  /forum/post/17115651
> 
> 
> I think I asked this the other day, but it got deleted along with some spam posts (hopefully deleted on accident
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Anyway has anyone gotten a 'bricked' unit because of this new firmware update? I'm still leery of installing them!



We've had no reports here of folks suffering this fate trying the "test" firmware that comes with the SCARY WARNING.


Nevertheless, you should still be leery about installing them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17116567
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> I have not altered the serial connection settings. They are factory default. I also talked to Piero a few minutes ago. He said it migh be because I have setup the speakers to Advance and asked me to change it back to small. I will try that later. Do you think of anything else?
> 
> Thanks,



I run ARC all the time with speakers set to Advanced, so that's not it.


You CAN run into problems if you tell ARC at the start of a Measurement that you have speakers which are not actually connected.


Here's another possibility: If you are using a fancy set of Trigger definitions to decide when your amps turn on, make sure that the amps turn on when the AM/FM Source is selected on the Main path. ARC switches to the AM/FM source as part of its preliminary configuration of the Anthem prior to running the test sweep tones. If your amps aren't set to turn on when that Source is selected then ARC can't produce the test tones.


Also, try running the Manual test tones in Setup > Level Calibration under your normal settings just to confirm the Anthem can get test tones to your speakers.


Another thought: I've never tried running ARC while the Setup settings in the Anthem were password protected. If you are using password protection, that's another thing that going to Factory Defaults may change.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/17117145
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> A rather oldschool problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to hook up my LD Player to the Anthem D2v, picture is working fine but i can not get Dolby Digital to work.
> 
> I do have a Lexicon RF Demodulator but the D2v does not recognise the DD signal. Is the signal too "weak"?
> 
> Works fine with my old processor.
> 
> 
> LD Player optical/ coax out (PCM or DTS) routed through the Demodulator -> OK
> 
> 
> LD Player AC3 RF signal -> Demodulator -> Anthem does seem to recognise the incoming signal.
> 
> 
> Its nothing that bothers me too much , but i am curious why the D2v will not accept this signal.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Interesting problem! I'm stumped.


Which firmware version do you have installed in your D2v?

--Bob


----------



## WildZero

Yes a really weird problem









I am using 2.07. It came with this version, haven't changed anything yet.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17117294
> 
> 
> I am trying to run ARC, but my subwoofer keeps kicking off when it doesn't sense a signal. By the time I get to the second microphone position, the sub has shut down and the signal that the ARC is sending to the sub is not enough to get it to kick back on. I am not able to complete the Measure process due to this. Any suggestions on how to get around this?
> 
> 
> AramB



As others have suggested, do the preliminary steps to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and the volume knob on your subwoofer.


Some subwoofers have both Left and Right channel line-level inputs. For those subs, you can increase the signal the subwoofer sees -- and thus increase the chance it turns on -- by using a Y-splitter at the end of the subwoofer feed line from the Anthem and plugging in to both L and R. Re-adjust the volume knob on your sub after doing this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/17121494
> 
> 
> Yes a really weird problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am using 2.07. It came with this version, haven't changed anything yet.



The one bug I knew of in detecting DD input over optical cable was fixed in "official" V2.07.


It is possible that the "test" V2.07f or later firmware may handle this better, so you might want to try this test again when that firmware gets finalized.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/17121494
> 
> 
> Yes a really weird problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am using 2.07. It came with this version, haven't changed anything yet.



Are you sure the demodulator is working? Been a while since I messed with LD but doesn't PCM and DTS come off the disc digitally and is then just passed through the demodulator? Where as AC-3 (DD) is RF on the disc and is then demodulated to a bitstream.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17121445
> 
> 
> I run ARC all the time with speakers set to Advanced, so that's not it.
> 
> 
> You CAN run into problems if you tell ARC at the start of a Measurement that you have speakers which are not actually connected.
> 
> 
> Here's another possibility: If you are using a fancy set of Trigger definitions to decide when your amps turn on, make sure that the amps turn on when the AM/FM Source is selected on the Main path. ARC switches to the AM/FM source as part of its preliminary configuration of the Anthem prior to running the test sweep tones. If your amps aren't set to turn on when that Source is selected then ARC can't produce the test tones.
> 
> 
> Also, try running the Manual test tones in Setup > Level Calibration under your normal settings just to confirm the Anthem can get test tones to your speakers.
> 
> 
> Another thought: I've never tried running ARC while the Setup settings in the Anthem were password protected. If you are using password protection, that's another thing that going to Factory Defaults may change.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,

I have the trigger on only for the Main. the AM & FM triggers are off.

I am sure that is the problem. Thanks so much.


----------



## aramb

I received the missing Remote Control and power cord from Anthem today via overnight UPS. Impressive customer service!!!


AramB


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/17117145
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> A rather oldschool problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to hook up my LD Player to the Anthem D2v, picture is working fine but i can not get Dolby Digital to work.
> 
> I do have a Lexicon RF Demodulator but the D2v does not recognise the DD signal. Is the signal too "weak"?
> 
> Works fine with my old processor.
> 
> 
> LD Player optical/ coax out (PCM or DTS) routed through the Demodulator -> OK
> 
> 
> LD Player AC3 RF signal -> Demodulator -> Anthem does seem to recognise the incoming signal.
> 
> 
> Its nothing that bothers me too much , but i am curious why the D2v will not accept this signal.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Your statements are confusing.


I have a *Lexicon LDD-1*. It has only one output and that is a S/PDIF.


I don't believe Anthem has an input compatible with that.


I think you need a converter from S/PDIF to Optical - *Like this one*


----------



## WildZero

Hello,


Yes, Lexicon LDD-1, worked with the coax digital inputs of the previous

processor/ receives i owned. When i route PCM/DTS through the demodulator

i also use this S/PDIF output (the LDD-1 only has one output) since this works

without problems i thought it would also work with Dolby Digital.

Guess i was wrong









Coincidentally i have ordered the converter you recommended today, because

i wanted to try if input via optical would work.










Thanks for you help!


Ps. The demodulator is working, tried it with my old processor.


----------



## aramb

I am getting audio dropouts about every 2 minutes with my HD-XA2 and the AVM50v. Currently I am only using HDMI for audio. I decided to hook up a coax cable between the XA2 and the AVM for digital audio and changed the audio input in the Setup menu of the AVM. Now I get popping coming from all the channels that sounds like an old LP record. What am I doing wrong?


Also, which video format should I select on the XA2 (up to 1080p or up to 1080p/24)? Is there some audio change I need to make into the XA2 to alleviate the dropout issue?


I do not seem to have these issues with the BluRay player.


AramB


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17123084
> 
> 
> Your statements are confusing.
> 
> 
> I have a *Lexicon LDD-1*. It has only one output and that is a S/PDIF.
> 
> 
> I don't believe Anthem has an input compatible with that.
> 
> 
> I think you need a converter from S/PDIF to Optical - *Like this one*



Huh?? The D2 has eleven S/PDIF inputs, seven coaxial, three optical and a single AES/EBU. Not sure why you would have to convert from coaxial to optical to get it to work with the Anthem. I don't remember needing an adapter between the LDD-1 and the receiver, but it has been a while. Apparently the LDD-1 is passing PCM and DTS just fine so there must be something about the demodulated AC-3 analog signal to DD the Anthem doesn't like.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17123496
> 
> 
> I am getting audio dropouts about every 2 minutes with my HD-XA2 and the AVM50v. Currently I am only using HDMI for audio. I decided to hook up a coax cable between the XA2 and the AVM for digital audio and changed the audio input in the Setup menu of the AVM. Now I get popping coming from all the channels that sounds like an old LP record. What am I doing wrong?
> 
> 
> Also, which video format should I select on the XA2 (up to 1080p or up to 1080p/24)? Is there some audio change I need to make into the XA2 to alleviate the dropout issue?
> 
> 
> I do not seem to have these issues with the BluRay player.
> 
> 
> AramB



Aram, the setting in the Toshiba will be determined by the capabilities of your display. If it can accept 1080p at 24fps than set it to up to 1080p/24. Did you get the audio dropouts while bitstreaming the audio from the Toshiba or did you have it set to internally decode and send the decoded audio as PCM?



Regards,


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17124060
> 
> 
> Aram, the setting in the Toshiba will be determined by the capabilities of your display. If it can accept 1080p at 24fps than set it to up to 1080p/24. Did you get the audio dropouts while bitstreaming the audio from the Toshiba or did you have it set to internally decode and send the decoded audio as PCM?



I was getting the dropouts about every two minutes using HDMI with the following settings on the XA2:

Digital Out SPDIF - Bitstream

Digital Out HDMI - Auto


I have changed the Digital Out HDMI setting to PCM and I am no longer getting the dropouts. However, I no longer get the Dolby Digital LED indication on the AVM. Also, is it my imagination, or, is the soundfield not quite as good with the PCM setting?


AramB


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17124124
> 
> 
> I was getting the dropouts about every two minutes using HDMI with the following settings on the XA2:
> 
> Digital Out SPDIF - Bitstream
> 
> Digital Out HDMI - Auto
> 
> 
> I have changed the Digital Out HDMI setting to PCM and I am no longer getting the dropouts. However, I no longer get the Dolby Digital LED indication on the AVM. Also, is it my imagination, or, is the soundfield not quite as good with the PCM setting?
> 
> 
> AramB



Greetings,


Aram, to bistream the high resolution audio from the Toshiba to the Anthem via HDMI you should use the Digital Direct Audio setting in the Toshiba's audio setup menu. This will bitstream Dolby Digital Plus/Dolby TrueHD etc. to the Anthem for decoding.


Post back with the results...


Regards,


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17124281
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Aram, to bistream the high resolution audio from the Toshiba to the Anthem via HDMI you should use the Digital Direct Audio setting in the Toshiba's audio setup menu. This will bitstream Dolby Digital Plus/Dolby TrueHD etc. to the Anthem for decoding.
> 
> 
> Post back with the results...
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph, I have Digital Direct Audio Mode = ON with SPDIF = Bitstream and HDMI = AUTO. New development however... this occurs with Transformers, but when I put in Harry Potter it worked fine. Is there a known issue with Transformers?


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17124314
> 
> 
> Ralph, I have Digital Direct Audio Mode = ON with SPDIF = Bitstream and HDMI = AUTO. New development however... this occurs with Transformers, but when I put in Harry Potter it worked fine. Is there a known issue with Transformers?



Greetings,


Aram, the Direct Digital Audio mode should be set to "On" rather than auto. I am not sure which firmware you are running in the Toshiba but that is the preferred setting.


I am not aware of any issues with Transformers.



Regards,


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17125694
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Aram, the Direct Digital Audio mode should be set to "On" rather than auto. I am not sure which firmware you are running in the Toshiba but that is the preferred setting.
> 
> 
> I am not aware of any issues with Transformers.



The Direct Digital Audio is definitely ON. I am not sure why this particular movie is causing issues. Also, why do I get the soft popping coming from random channels when I try to use the Digital Coax inputs?


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by WildZero
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> A rather oldschool problem
> 
> I tried to hook up my LD Player to the Anthem D2v, picture is working fine but i can not get Dolby Digital to work.
> 
> I do have a Lexicon RF Demodulator but the D2v does not recognise the DD signal. Is the signal too "weak"?
> 
> Works fine with my old processor.
> 
> 
> LD Player optical/ coax out (PCM or DTS) routed through the Demodulator -> OK
> 
> 
> LD Player AC3 RF signal -> Demodulator -> Anthem does seem to recognise the incoming signal.
> 
> 
> Its nothing that bothers me too much , but i am curious why the D2v will not accept this signal.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Interesting problem! I'm stumped.
> 
> 
> Which firmware version do you have installed in your D2v?
> 
> --Bob




I had this exact same problem. Couldn't get my D2 to recognize a DD signal coming from a DVD player. Spent hours messing with it....hooked it up to an old reciever it DD lit up like it should. I was stumped. Spent quite a bit of time searching on here and found the answer in an old AMV20 thread. Hooking it up to the AES/EBU connection (XLR type connection to my D2) did the trick. It's worked like a charm since then. I posted my findings here in the thread, but can't seem to search and find them. I bet this will fix your problem.


----------



## jayray

Under the weird column. My D2v display lost some letters on the right side of the display. Vol. showed as 18. instead of 18.5 and above it, Main and 1080p which are normally there showed as Ma and 108. Firmware 2.07f. Recycling power fixed it.


I also got a chance to try the PBK kit with a Paradigm sub and the before and after was amazing. PBK, as many of you know, is a version of ARC for subs and did it ever tighten up this sub., very impressive. Without it, it was loose sounding and bass had a wobbley characteristic. I turned eq. off and it was amazing how much sound stage was lost. Put eq. back on with my sub and all was well









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17126007
> 
> 
> I also got a chance to try the PBK kit with a Paradigm sub and the before and after was amazing. PBK, as many of you know, is a version of ARC for subs and did it ever tighten up this sub., very impressive. Without it, it was loose sounding and bass had a wobbley characteristic. I turned eq. off and it was amazing how much sound stage was lost. Put eq. back on with my sub and all was well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I take it that was with a sub used on a setup that didn't already have ARC, correct?

--Bob


----------



## WildZero




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/17125954
> 
> 
> I had this exact same problem. Couldn't get my D2 to recognize a DD signal coming from a DVD player. Spent hours messing with it....hooked it up to an old reciever it DD lit up like it should. I was stumped. Spent quite a bit of time searching on here and found the answer in an old AMV20 thread. Hooking it up to the AES/EBU connection (XLR type connection to my D2) did the trick. It's worked like a charm since then. I posted my findings here in the thread, but can't seem to search and find them. I bet this will fix your problem.



Thanks barhoram! Oh sounds great! Do i need some kind of adapter to

change from coax to AES/EBU?


----------



## butterbars

New D2v owner here. I can't get the setup menu to appear onscreen. Seems strange as video is coming through fine, as well as the 2-line status display onscreen. I've tried multiple resolutions, and video works with all of them, just not the onscreen setup menu.


Any ideas?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/17126459
> 
> 
> Thanks barhoram! Oh sounds great! Do i need some kind of adapter to
> 
> change from coax to AES/EBU?



Monoprice makes an XLR to RCA cable. Not sure if it is wired correctly for S/PDIF though.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *butterbars* /forum/post/17126520
> 
> 
> New D2v owner here. I can't get the setup menu to appear onscreen. Seems strange as video is coming through fine, as well as the 2-line status display onscreen. I've tried multiple resolutions, and video works with all of them, just not the onscreen setup menu.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source. The other graphic displays generated by the D2v are done differently.


If you have any other S-video source devices, try S-video from one of them to see if it comes up.


NOTE: You can do Setup menu operations using your Front Panel display until this gets fixed.


The usual advice with a problem like this is to first try a re-install of the firmware -- in your case the "official" V2.07 firmware available for download from the Anthem public download page for the D2v:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


Do the re-install just like you were doing a new install. Make sure you have your current settings saved in Saved User and/or Installer Settings. Then do a Reload Factory Defaults. Then power down and make sure you have no powered HDMI connections during the install. Since many HDMI devices keep their HDMI sockets powered even when the device is "OFF", and since HDMI plugs/sockets are delicate, my recommendation is that you simply remove wall power from everything in your system except for the D2v and the Windows computer you are using for the firmware install.


When you start the installer application on your Windows PC, it will bring up a text screen reminding you about all this.


After the install, you can Reload Saved User or Installer Settings to get your settings back.


If that doesn't fix the problem, or if the problem recurs, give Anthem tech support a call as you likely have a hardware problem on your video board affecting S-video inputs.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Quick question Bob, is the setup menu available via either HDMI output but the OSD is only available via HDMI 1 (Default) or S-Video (unless changed in setup)?



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I haven't tried it but I suspect the Setup menu IS available on HDMI 2 since it is just another S-Video source going through the scaler.


The OSD is a special graphic overlay and it doesn't happen on HDMI 2.

--Bob


----------



## NOCAL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17123750
> 
> 
> Huh?? The D2 has eleven S/PDIF inputs, seven coaxial, three optical and a single AES/EBU. Not sure why you would have to convert from coaxial to optical to get it to work with the Anthem. I don't remember needing an adapter between the LDD-1 and the receiver, but it has been a while. Apparently the LDD-1 is passing PCM and DTS just fine so there must be something about the demodulated AC-3 analog signal to DD the Anthem doesn't like.



This maybe totally off base, what do I know? I have the Wadia i170 transport (ipod dock). It doesn't work at all or very well with the Coax into Anthem. Even the Wadia site says it is incompatible. I called Wadia and they said that Anthem's design spec. for Coax is "tight" or "narrow". Whatever, but the workaround was a Coax to digital AES/EBU adapter. Everything works fine. So maybe there are other input components out there like the aforementioned that are also effected by this incompatibility? Just my experience.


Just remember it is not just an analoge XLR adapter, you need to specifically get a digital one to AES/EBU. I found a few offered, but search out Pro Audio internet sites like those serving the studio mixer crowd. And you don't need one with a transformer just a straight pass through. I have seen either an adapter box with coax in and AES out. Also a cable with Coax on one side and AES on the other.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17127175
> 
> 
> I haven't tried it but I suspect the Setup menu IS available on HDMI 2 since it is just another S-Video source going through the scaler.
> 
> 
> The OSD is a special graphic overlay and it doesn't happen on HDMI 2.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Makes sense. Thanks Bob...











Cheers,


----------



## butterbars




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17126735
> 
> 
> The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source. The other graphic displays generated by the D2v are done differently.
> 
> 
> If you have any other S-video source devices, try S-video from one of them to see if it comes up.
> 
> 
> NOTE: You can do Setup menu operations using your Front Panel display until this gets fixed.
> 
> 
> The usual advice with a problem like this is to first try a re-install of the firmware -- in your case the "official" V2.07 firmware available for download from the Anthem public download page for the D2v:
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html
> 
> 
> Do the re-install just like you were doing a new install. Make sure you have your current settings saved in Saved User and/or Installer Settings. Then do a Reload Factory Defaults. Then power down and make sure you have no powered HDMI connections during the install. Since many HDMI devices keep their HDMI sockets powered even when the device is "OFF", and since HDMI plugs/sockets are delicate, my recommendation is that you simply remove wall power from everything in your system except for the D2v and the Windows computer you are using for the firmware install.
> 
> 
> When you start the installer application on your Windows PC, it will bring up a text screen reminding you about all this.
> 
> 
> After the install, you can Reload Saved User or Installer Settings to get your settings back.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't fix the problem, or if the problem recurs, give Anthem tech support a call as you likely have a hardware problem on your video board affecting S-video inputs.
> 
> --Bob




Before I could even read your response and reload the firmware, I had turned it off and left it for a while. When I came back to it and tried the setup menu, it worked!


Bob, thanks for the troubleshooting help.


Now I'm off to do my first ARC setup...


----------



## obie_fl

Interesting stuff NOCAL that sounds exactly what WildZero and barhoram experienced. There's only so many ways to wire an XLR to RCA... Blue Jeans will build one too if you know the pin outs. I kinda sorta remember building one of these many moons ago but the ole memory is foggy. Maybe I can at least dig up the pinouts.


Here's a link to a RCA to XLR S/PDIF cable .


----------



## gonzalc3

Hi,


I have read of the technical differences between the AVm 50 and the D2. However in terms of sound quality what aré the main differences?

I am interested on purchasing one of them but want to make a good decision..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Even though they've been out for a few years now, there are very few folks posting here who have actually listened to a properly set up original Anthem Statement D2 vs. an original Anthem AVM 50. However, my recollection is that those folks who have done this have been unanimous that the D2 sounded better -- they could hear the difference -- even those who ended up getting an AVM 50 for the cost savings.


There are hardly *ANY* folks posting here who've actually listened to a new Anthem Statement D2v, properly set up, vs. a new Anthem AVM 50v.


And the importance of equivalently good setup is a big deal, as for example if you hear one with an Anthem Room Correction (ARC) setup and the other without, the results won't be very useful.


In the case of the original units, we could send folks in search of audio reviews of the AVM 30 vs. the Statement D1 since they shared the audio section design with the AVM 50 and the Statement D2. But with the new units we don't even have that to suggest.


If you can afford the D2v, then you should try to arrange an audition at home with the rest of your equipment. This won't be easy (these puppies sell as fast as they are made).


I'd love to get more posts here from folks who've actually listened to both and feel they have some useful results.

--Bob


----------



## gonzalc3

Thanks Bob! Actually here in DC I haven't been able to audition any of the anthem's processors.. I have the 8003 and have listened to the integra which I didn't like for music.. PM if you know somewhere where I could get a good deal with these procesors..


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17126176
> 
> 
> I take it that was with a sub used on a setup that didn't already have ARC, correct?
> 
> --Bob



I used my setup with EQ off and the sub had the last pbk erased before we listened. It didn't sound particularly good at first but after the pbk upload it sounded terrific. Not sure if this answers your question. Piero told me to turn of EQ and that would allow a fair test.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17128764
> 
> 
> I used my setup with EQ off and the sub had the last pbk erased before we listened. It didn't sound particularly good at first but after the pbk upload it sounded terrific. Not sure if this answers your question. Piero told me to turn of EQ and that would allow a fair test.
> 
> John



Sure, that's good -- of course it also turns off the ARC EQ of the other speakers as well, but they will still be off when you try the PBK ON test so it's a fair comparison. I presume you realize that PBK is not needed if you have ARC on a system.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


How long has the D2v been on the market already?

How long is that delivery backlog at Anthem's?

How much longer do I have to wait to get my D2 upgraded?

So many questions...

Any news around here?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17128804
> 
> 
> Sure, that's good -- of course it also turns off the ARC EQ of the other speakers as well, but they will still be off when you try the PBK ON test so it's a fair comparison. I presume you realize that PBK is not needed if you have ARC on a system.
> 
> --Bob



I realize this, it was for a friend who can't afford an Anthem. Without ARC this is a very effective way to fix sub issues. Of course it also reminded me of how much ARC is doing. With PBK I would say the test sub was very close to mine with ARC. The test sub didn't have the capabilities of mine but performed beautifully.

John


----------



## butterbars

I completed my first ARC run on my new D2v. I am simply astounded at the effect ARC has on my setup.


L/C/R: Aerial LR5

Surround: Aerial SR3 (dipole)

Sub: JL f113


I know there is room for improvement, so any ideas or analysis?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/17129614
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> How long has the D2v been on the market already?
> 
> How long is that delivery backlog at Anthem's?
> 
> How much longer do I have to wait to get my D2 upgraded?
> 
> So many questions...
> 
> Any news around here?



The D2v has been shipping since January 20 of this year (that was the date we got the first confirmed report of an owner taking delivery of a new D2v). Early shipment volumes were apparently limited. Volume shipments took another couple months to begin, which is when Anthem put out their press release saying it was shipping.


The backlog reported by posters here has been as high as 10 weeks when Anthem ran into a parts shortage in late Spring. More typical has been 6 weeks. Recently it looks like Anthem has made good progress ramping up production to lower that backlog significantly. I believe the backlog now is something under 1 month. However it is still unusual to find inventory at a dealer -- i.e., you still have to order one and wait.


Unlike the case with the original D2 and AVM 50, Anthem has chosen to offer a "trade-in" program for customers wanting to upgrade to a new D2v or AVM 50v rather than sending in your old unit to be re-worked as an "upgrade". On the plus side, you get an entirely new unit with a complete new unit warranty. On the down side it costs more. Trade-in pricing is already in dealer's hands, and you should be able to do a trade-in right now. However, we have not yet had the first post here from anyone who has actually received a new D2v via trade-in. (There's a nice, hot cookie for the first poster to confirm deliver of a new D2v or AVM 50v purchased via the trade-in program!)


One promised feature of the D2v and AVM 50v -- the free firmware update adding "Dolby Volume" -- has not yet happened.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17129723
> 
> 
> I realize this, it was for a friend who can't afford an Anthem. Without ARC this is a very effective way to fix sub issues. Of course it also reminded me of how much ARC is doing. With PBK I would say the test sub was very close to mine with ARC. The test sub didn't have the capabilities of mine but performed beautifully.
> 
> John



Was the setup procedure for PBK on that sub basically the same as the setup for ARC?


Does it send test tones through just the sub, or does it adjust the sub to best match with the uncorrected output of the other speakers?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *butterbars* /forum/post/17130114
> 
> 
> I completed my first ARC run on my new D2v. I am simply astounded at the effect ARC has on my setup.
> 
> 
> L/C/R: Aerial LR5
> 
> Surround: Aerial SR3 (dipole)
> 
> Sub: JL f113
> 
> 
> I know there is room for improvement, so any ideas or analysis?



This is looking quite good for a first try!


Here are my suggestions:


First your sub looks a little hot at 20Hz -- more than ARC is correcting. This may be due to Boundary Gain, which would mean the fix is to move it a bit further away from the wall/corner behind it. Even inches matter at these frequencies.


But before you do that, double check that you have disabled any crossover feature built into the sub. If you can't disable it completely (often a switch, sometimes a separate input), then crank it up to the highest possible frequency setting to get it out of the way as much as possible. ARC is having to boost much of the frequency range for your sub and that's probably why it can't cut the overshoot at 20Hz. If the internal crossover has been left active in your sub, that would explain at least some of this.


Fortunately your front speakers are good enough in bass that they can carry the load, but ARC still has to boost the sub to get all the LFE channel to go through it properly.


----------------------------------------


Next, all of your main speakers, but particularly your Surrounds, are weak at the highest frequencies, and again, more than ARC will try to correct (so as not to stress the amps or speakers).


What you are showing here is typical of speaker pointing issues. High frequencies are more directional, and speaker design for dispersion of highs is often worse in the vertical direction. So if your speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing.


Also don't point LF/RF directly at the center seating position. The rule of thumb is to swing them around only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular to the screen towards the center seating position.


Your LS/RS are weak enough in treble that you should also double check that their tweeters are actually working. They probably are (your loss of treble is not typical of a failed driver), but it is good to check. Play some stereo content having treble using Stereo ALL audio mode and go put your ear up close to the tweeter(s) in each speaker in turn to make sure all the tweeter drivers are producing output.


You only need a few dB improvement in Measured response in the treble from each speaker and ARC will be able to completely correct from there.


Anyway, what you have now SHOULD sound quite good, but check these things and re-Measure and you may get it even better!

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve









Just testing by reloading 2.07 before I do any beta. I have the Keyspan 19HUSA. Im using com6, with:

Bits per second 9600

Data bits 8

Parity: None

Stop bits: 1

Flow control Xon/Xoff

KSPN driver is 3.7.0.2

It says working properly and the thest in the Keyspan port test passes, and the green light is flashing slowly.

Im using the 232 white cable that came with the Anthem


I have my serial# fiels in the same forlder as the software.

IM stuck, why does it NUnalbe to locate Anther hadware on any serial port?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *butterbars* /forum/post/17130114
> 
> 
> I completed my first ARC run on my new D2v. I am simply astounded at the effect ARC has on my setup.



Interesting to see ARC made no correction in L/C/R above 1-2 kHz. That's good in my book. Not broken, don't fix it.










I'd like to know more about the improvement you're hearing. Could you give some additional details?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17130837
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just testing by reloading 2.07 before I do any beta. I have the Keyspan 19HUSA. Im using com6, with:
> 
> Bits per second 9600
> 
> Data bits 8
> 
> Parity: None
> 
> Stop bits: 1
> 
> Flow control Xon/Xoff
> 
> KSPN driver is 3.7.0.2
> 
> It says working properly and the thest in the Keyspan port test passes, and the green light is flashing slowly.
> 
> Im using the 232 white cable that came with the Anthem
> 
> 
> I have my serial# fiels in the same forlder as the software.
> 
> IM stuck, why does it NUnalbe to locate Anther hadware on any serial port?



Read the install notes for the D2v firmware. You'll find that the serial port needs to use 2 stop bits, for example. The default settings after you install the Keyspan driver should be fine. There is no need to make any changes to the settings the Keyspan driver installs. For example, I don't think turning on Flow Control is correct.


What version of Windows are you using, and is it 32-bit or 64-bit? Are you running Windows on a Windows PC or on a Mac? Double check on the Keyspan support site that you have the latest driver specific to your version of Windows. If necessary, uninstall the current Keyspan driver, reboot, and install the correct driver. Then reboot again.


If you have made any changes in the serial connection portion of Setup > Triggers/IR/RS232, return those back to factory defaults and try again. See the picture in the Manual for the factory defaults.


After installing the Keyspan driver, be sure to reboot Windows. Remember that you have to Reload Factory Defaults on the D2v prior to the install (which will set the proper serial port settings among other things). Make sure you have no other Windows programs running (e.g., Microsoft Messenger). If you have Windows software firewall turned on, turn it off and try again.


If you have other hardware attached to your Windows computer, there may be a "resource conflict" with the Keyspan driver. Check in Windows Hardware Manager to see if it is alerting any problems in its list of installed devices. Attach the USB plug of the Keyspan adapter directly to the computer if possible, rather than through a USB hub.


Finally, make sure you downloaded the V2.07 installer for the D2v and not for the AVM 50v.


If the above doesn't lead to a solution, give Anthem tech support a call during the week and they'll walk you through diagnosing what's wrong.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17130952
> 
> 
> Interesting to see ARC made no correction in L/C/R above 1-2 kHz.



Actually it IS correcting higher up. He's told ARC it is OK to correct all the way up to 20KHz (see Max EQ Frequency in the Targets window). See the boost it is applying between 15KHz and 20Khz for example (green Calculated curve vs. red Measured curve).


[NOTE: ARC won't try to boost more than 6dB up there to keep from straining the speakers or amps. The default setting for Max EQ Frequency tells ARC to stop correcting at 5KHz.]


The reason the small residual errors near, say 2500Hz are not being corrected is presumably because they ARE small, and ARC is using its resources elsewhere where they are more needed.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks Bob,

Im using 32bit, PC, I downloaded the latest driver (it says 2007 once loaded) I turned off flow control. I havent configured anyting with the processor, its fresh out of the box. I was going to do a test of the current version then go to Beta F.


Of course the problem now is I cant even do ARC if I cant communicate! by the way dose the processor need to be turned on to access "set up editor"? By turned on I mean not just the back switch but the "main" power on the front as well?


I assume by your statement of "Reload factory defaults prior to install" that is assuming I changed someing? Remember this is straight out of the box I have changed nothing. As a note , When I do make changes how do I "reload factory default"? Of course I have to get connected to do anyting! Reloaded drivers, reboot etc, just keeps saying "serching" for Statement D2v" and cant find it! BUMMER I want to set up ARC!!!!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17131049
> 
> 
> Read the install notes for the D2v firmware. You'll find that the serial port needs to use 2 stop bits, for example. The default settings after you install the Keyspan driver should be fine. There is no need to make any changes to the settings the Keyspan driver installs. For example, I don't think turning on Flow Control is correct.
> 
> 
> What version of Windows are you using, and is it 32-bit or 64-bit? Are you running Windows on a Windows PC or on a Mac? Double check on the Keyspan support site that you have the latest driver specific to your version of Windows. If necessary, uninstall the current Keyspan driver, reboot, and install the correct driver. Then reboot again.
> 
> 
> If you have made any changes in the serial connection portion of Setup > Triggers/IR/RS232, return those back to factory defaults and try again. See the picture in the Manual for the factory defaults.
> 
> 
> After installing the Keyspan driver, be sure to reboot Windows. Remember that you have to Reload Factory Defaults on the D2v prior to the install (which will set the proper serial port settings among other things). Make sure you have no other Windows programs running (e.g., Microsoft Messenger). If you have Windows software firewall turned on, turn it off and try again.
> 
> 
> If you have other hardware attached to your Windows computer, there may be a "resource conflict" with the Keyspan driver. Check in Windows Hardware Manager to see if it is alerting any problems in its list of installed devices.
> 
> 
> Finally, make sure you downloaded the V2.07 installer for the D2v and not for the AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> If the above doesn't lead to a solution, give Anthem tech support a call during the week and they'll walk you through diagnosing what's wrong.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17131163
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> Im using 32bit, PC, I downloaded the latest driver (it says 2007 once loaded) I turned off flow control. I havent configured anyting with the processor, its fresh out of the box. I was going to do a test of the current version then go to Beta F.
> 
> 
> Of course the problem now is I cant even do ARC if I cant communicate! by the way dose the processor need to be turned on to access "set up editor"? By turned on I mean not just the back switch but the "main" power on the front as well?
> 
> 
> I assume by your statement of "Reload factory defaults prior to install" that is assuming I changed someing? Remember this is straight out of the box I have changed nothing. As a note , When I do make changes how do I "reload factory default"? Of course I have to get connected to do anyting! Reloaded drivers, reboot etc, just keeps saying "serching" for Statement D2v" and cant find it! BUMMER I want to set up ARC!!!!



Which version of Windows OS? The driver is different for different versions.


You don't need to use "set up editor" to make settings in your new D2v. Just power it up and press and hold the Setup button on the remote until the Setup menu appears on your TV. If you don't have video you can see your current location in the Setup menu in the Front Panel and make Setup menu changes that way.


Start by going to Setup > Video Output and entering your display settings so that you can continue on the TV screen.


And yes, you should Reload Factory Defaults before installing firmware even if the unit is new out of the box. However, I strongly recommend you do *NOT* install firmware -- even a re-install of V2.07 -- until you've got your first set of settings in place and have become more familiar with your new D2v.


You Reload Factory Defaults by going into Setup > Save and Load Settings using the Front Panel display to navigate if necessary.


NOTE: The pictures of the menu pages in the Manual will be very helpful if you find yourself navigating the Setup menu using the Front Panel display. Also note that some changes -- such as Video Output changes -- don't take effect until you back out of that portion of the Setup menu.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Bob,

Using XP

I guess this is a "omen" and I should just put the unit in my system and go. But If I cant "communicate" how am I going to do ARC?!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17131233
> 
> 
> Which version of Windows OS? The driver is different for different versions.
> 
> 
> You don't need to use "set up editor" to make settings in your new D2v. Just power it up and press and hold the Setup button on the remote until the Setup menu appears on your TV. If you don't have video you can see your current location in the Setup menu in the Front Panel and make Setup menu changes that way.
> 
> 
> Start by going to Setup > Video Output and entering your display settings so that you can continue on the TV screen.
> 
> 
> And yes, you should Reload Factory Defaults before installing firmware even if the unit is new out of the box. However, I strongly recommend you do *NOT* install firmware -- even a re-install of V2.07 -- until you've got your first set of settings in place and have become more familiar with your new D2v.
> 
> 
> You Reload Factory Defaults by going into Setup > Save and Load Settings using the Front Panel display to navigate if necessary.
> 
> 
> NOTE: The pictures of the menu pages in the Manual will be very helpful if you find yourself navigating the Setup menu using the Front Panel display. Also note that some changes -- such as Video Output changes -- don't take effect until you back out of that portion of the Setup menu.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17131256
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Using XP
> 
> I guess this is a "omen" and I should just put the unit in my system and go. But If I cant "communicate" how am I going to do ARC?!!



I suggest you set up your system and then revisit the serial connection issue. And yes you will need a serial connection to do the ARC setup.


When you get to that point, start by uninstalling and re-installing the keyspan driver (reboot after each step). Don't make any settings changes in the driver after the new install. If you don't have any conflicting hardware already installed in your XP, the default settings of the keyspan driver should work just fine.


If you have a driver for a DIFFERENT USB/Serial adapter installed, uninstall it first and then retry the Keyspan install.


This sort of stuff is much easier to sort out in person or on the phone than via posts, so if you don't have an answer by the time Anthem tech support gets back in the office, give them a call and they'll walk you through what to check. This is a very common problem. Frankly I'm always amazed when ANYTHING works on Windows.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, Steve, the easiest solution is often just to switch to a different Windows PC.

--Bob


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17130266
> 
> 
> Unlike the case with the original D2 and AVM 50, Anthem has chosen to offer a "trade-in" program for customers wanting to upgrade to a new D2v or AVM 50v rather than sending in your old unit to be re-worked as an "upgrade". On the plus side, you get an entirely new unit with a complete new unit warranty. On the down side it costs more. Trade-in pricing is already in dealer's hands, and you should be able to do a trade-in right now. However, we have not yet had the first post here from anyone who has actually received a new D2v via trade-in. (There's a nice, hot cookie for the first poster to confirm deliver of a new D2v or AVM 50v purchased via the trade-in program!)
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Has Anthem officially announced this trade-in vs upgrade program, along with official prices? I know folks here have quoted Nick or Piero, but I would think that would be unofficial, and they'd want to post the correct numbers and procedure on their website.


Not that I don't trust the dealer's word always ..........


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17130278
> 
> 
> Was the setup procedure for PBK on that sub basically the same as the setup for ARC?
> 
> 
> Does it send test tones through just the sub, or does it adjust the sub to best match with the uncorrected output of the other speakers?
> 
> --Bob



Yes it was similar to ARC but test tones are outputted from only the sub. The resultant chart shows measured, calculated and theoretical. Uploads just like ARC but using a USB cable. Microphone and stand same as ARC. Had to use test page version, cd version would not measure properly. This might be the version that wouldn't work with ARC on the same computer.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17131355
> 
> 
> Yes it was similar to ARC but test tones are outputted from only the sub. The resultant chart shows measured, calculated and theoretical. Uploads just like ARC but using a USB cable. Microphone and stand same as ARC. Had to use test page version, cd version would not measure properly. This might be the version that wouldn't work with ARC on the same computer.
> 
> John



Yes, the newer software fixes a bug that prevents ARC or PBK from finding the mic if both are installed on the same Windows PC.


I think it's great that PBK can do such a good job with bass without fiddling with the other speakers. Does it make suggestions for appropriate crossover settings for the other speakers or anything like that?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/17131317
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Has Anthem officially announced this trade-in vs upgrade program, along with official prices? I know folks here have quoted Nick or Piero, but I would think that would be unofficial, and they'd want to post the correct numbers and procedure on their website.
> 
> 
> Not that I don't trust the dealer's word always ..........



The trade-in prices are not up on the web site yet. But I'm sure the prices emailed out by Nick and Piero are "official".


Since the dealer doesn't have to do anything except process the order, I can't imagine they'd have a problem honoring those prices.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

I dont see where Im supposed to register for warrenty?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17131461
> 
> 
> I dont see where Im supposed to register for warrenty?



I don't believe Anthem does warranty registration.


Your unit serial number and your proof of purchase from an authorized Anthem dealer are all you need as far as I know.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks,

Found an old "FTI" USB/232 files that I use to use to connect with my Meridan unit. Ive deleted all those files, Uninsalled Keyspan, reinstalled Kspan and rebooted every time.


Found the problem, the white cable that comes with the Anthem does not work! It says NULL Modem cable on it, is that right!?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17131473
> 
> 
> I don't believe Anthem does warranty registration.
> 
> 
> Your unit serial number and your proof of purchase from an authorized Anthem dealer are all you need as far as I know.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17131544
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Found an old "FTI" USB/232 files that I use to use to connect with my Meridan unit. Ive deleted all those files, Uninsalled Keyspan, reinstalled Kspan and rebooted every time.
> 
> 
> Found the problem, the white cable that comes with the Anthem does not work! It says NULL Modem cable on it, is that right!?



You're kidding, right?


No a Null Modem cable is NOT what you want. What you want is a "straight through" cable where pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9. A Null Modem cable swaps one pair of those. The whole idea of including the cable in the box was to prevent people making this mistake!


Sheesh! This is getting a little nutty. Somebody needs to have their head whomped at Anthem to get their pack out quality control back where it needs to be.


You can get a "straight through" RS232 cable at Radio Shack.


Presuming the proper cable works, please be sure to email Anthem tech support with your unit serial number and the description of the incorrect cable -- including a part number if that's printed on it.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Yea, Ive been at this since 9AM this morning and it clearly says "Null Modoem" on the Anthem supplied cable!! What a bunch of &^%$!!!! The one I just happend to try is only about 4' long, Ill get a long one at RS and notify Anthem, they can reimburse me. Glad I figured this out, it was driving me nuts!!


Now, is it easier to do the settings (source etc) via the "set up editor" or do you suggest I hook it up and go from there?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17131559
> 
> 
> You're kidding, right?
> 
> 
> No a Null Modem cable is NOT what you want. What you want is a "straight through" cable where pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9. A Null Modem cable swaps one pair of those. The whole idea of including the cable in the box was to prevent people making this mistake!
> 
> 
> Sheesh! This is getting a little nutty. Somebody needs to have their head whomped at Anthem to get their pack out quality control back where it needs to be.
> 
> 
> You can get a "straight through" RS232 cable at Radio Shack.
> 
> 
> Presuming the proper cable works, please be sure to email Anthem tech support with your unit serial number and the description of the incorrect cable -- including a part number if that's printed on it.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17131589
> 
> 
> Yea, Ive been at this since 9AM this morning and it clearly says "Null Modoem" on the Anthem supplied cable!! What a bunch of &^%$!!!! The one I just happend to try is only about 4' long, Ill get a long one at RS and notify Anthem, they can reimburse me. Glad I figured this out, it was driving me nuts!!
> 
> 
> Now, is it easier to do the settings (source etc) via the "set up editor" or do you suggest I hook it up and go from there?



I suggest you hook it up and go from there.


You will want to get used to using the normal, on-screen Setup menu anyway for cases when you need to change something and the computer isn't hooked up.


By the way, the normal, "correct" RS-232 cable that Anthem includes is also white. I wonder if they got an incorrect batch from their supplier? We'll know soon if we start getting more reports like yours.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

I was ready to spit nails!!! Radio Shack has a 6' bad weekend to find one! Also checking Office Deopt, Office Max, Comp stores that are open!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17131609
> 
> 
> I suggest you hook it up and go from there.
> 
> 
> You will want to get used to using the normal, on-screen Setup menu anyway for cases when you need to change something and the computer isn't hooked up.
> 
> 
> By the way, the normal, "correct" RS-232 cable that Anthem includes is also white. I wonder if they got an incorrect batch from their supplier? We'll know soon if we start getting more reports like yours.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem's been shipping the "right" serial cable with these units for so long I don't even think in terms of "wrong cable" any more. Back when this thread was new, we'd have regular reports of folks going out and buying a Null Modem cable by mistake....


ETA: I recently got an HP printer that came with a power cord that was only one foot long. Apparently it is the power cord for their printers that come with a power brick. The short cord attaches the brick to the wall socket and then there's a longer cord from the brick that goes to the printer. But they didn't include a brick by mistake (this printer doesn't use one). Just the shorty cord. You'd think the person picking cords for the pack out would have noticed the difference in weight and bulk, but nope.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17131412
> 
> 
> Yes, the newer software fixes a bug that prevents ARC or PBK from finding the mic if both are installed on the same Windows PC.
> 
> 
> I think it's great that PBK can do such a good job with bass without fiddling with the other speakers. Does it make suggestions for appropriate crossover settings for the other speakers or anything like that?
> 
> --Bob



Good question. I believe there are but we were quite rushed doing this on Friday night so I didn't have a chance to play around. He is likely to get this sub, the Sub 12, in around a month or so and then the playing will start.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17131303
> 
> 
> By the way, Steve, the easiest solution is often just to switch to a different Windows PC.
> 
> --Bob



I don't recall the procedure Bob - But Nick and I worked

through a dumb serial problem last week - I was trying

to get my Crestron to Control the D2.


The problem was to get the Anthem set to the right baud rate.

It sounds stupid - but the Anthem does not adjust as most

Async Ports are suppose. I would recommend Mr. Texas

go though the front panel setup.


ALSO - wasn't there some tech note about Problems with

Port numbers being too HIGH. Mr. Texas is using #6


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You are a few posts behind. The problem turned out to be that Anthem included the WRONG STYLE of serial cable in the box with his D2v!

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17131973
> 
> 
> You are a few posts behind. The problem turned out to be that Anthem included the WRONG STYLE of serial cable in the box with his D2v!
> 
> --Bob



PLEASE EXPLAIN how that is possible?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The correct serial cable is a "straight through" cable -- pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9.


Anthem mistakenly shipped a "Null Modem" cable with his D2v. A Null Modem serial cable has one pair of pins (Transmit & Receive) swapped inside the cable.


The cable he got in his D2v box is actually marked as a Null Modem cable so something slipped up in Anthem's quality control for receiving incoming parts or for the pack out of his D2v box.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17132026
> 
> 
> The correct serial cable is a "straight through" cable -- pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9.
> 
> 
> Anthem mistakenly shipped a "Null Modem" cable with his D2v. A Null Modem serial cable has one pair of pins (Transmit & Receive) swapped inside the cable.
> 
> 
> The cable he got in his D2v box is actually marked as a Null Modem cable so something slipped up in Anthem's quality control for receiving incoming parts or for the pack out of his D2v box.
> 
> --Bob



No COOKIES for Anthem all of this MONTH


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Darn right! We may have to introduce regular calisthenics breaks to get the blood flowing to their brains again!


Of course this is just the sort of silly goof up that drives manufacturing managers crazy.


My guess is that their supplier shipped a batch of the wrong cables and it wasn't caught in receiving. The wrong cable is the same color and length as the right cable, and with the same plugs. So you'd have to check the part number carefully or check the markings on the cable to realize the wrong cable had been sent.


If I'm correct, this means they may have shipped a whole batch of Anthems with the wrong cable.

--Bob


----------



## highanddry

I received my D2v at about the same time as Texas steve did.


I have the correct serial cable but my gear came with only a single remote. No big deal; I followed up with the dealer and a second remote was in shipping the next day. Anthem wanted to know the serial number of my D2v, so I am sure they monitor their QA/QC.


I agree that having the wrong serial cable is a let down, as is having a single remote, but it's not as if this inconvenience is going to change my mind on the gear. I've waited a long time to have such capable equipment; so waiting three more days for the second remote is bug dirt.


Perhaps there were having to work double time in shipping after the week long plant shutdown for inventory/vacation.


We'll all survive.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *highanddry* /forum/post/17132087
> 
> 
> I received my D2v at about the same time as Texas steve did.
> 
> 
> I have the correct serial cable but my gear came with only a single remote. No big deal; I followed up with the dealer and a second remote was in shipping the next day. Anthem wanted to know the serial number of my D2v, so I am sure they monitor their QA/QC.



My Anthem came with TWO Remotes - and I figured that was a MISTAKE.


Why would any Manufacturer ship TWO remotes - that still baffles me to this day


----------



## highanddry

The second remote facilitates Zone 2, via IR.


I use Zone 2 for both of my systems and the second remote is great. One could use a universal, but the Anthem remote, as Bob noted earlier, is quite a little technological wonder.


It reinforces my belief that Anthem thinks long and hard about the end user. Why don't other manufacturers include a second remote? Denon did with my second system, but the second remote is not fully capable, like the main remote.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sure, but at least you had the OTHER remote.










What makes this serial cable goof up so annoying is that the REASON Anthem started shipping a serial cable in the box was because so many people mistakenly bought the wrong cable -- causing customer frustration and tech support headaches. It's very easy to do. For instance Radio shack packages the right and the wrong style cable identically. You have to know to look for the pin-out info.


I hope it turns out that the supplier just included one wrong cable in a batch of otherwise correct cables. It's much easier to understand how Anthem manufacturing could have missed that.


Anyway, we have to get riled up now and again just to keep them on their toes. Perfection never comes easily!


--------------------


And yes I suspect Anthem was pushing hard to get more of the backlog shipped before the end of August, so that they were ready to deal with "trade in" customers in September.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17132094
> 
> 
> My Anthem came with TWO Remotes - and I figured that was a MISTAKE.
> 
> 
> Why would any Manufacturer ship TWO remotes - that still baffles me to this day



It's also another difference between the Statement units and the AVM units. The AVM units only get one remote control in the box. You have to purchase a second remote separately if you want one.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17132121
> 
> 
> It's also another difference between the Statement units and the AVM units. The AVM units only get one remote control in the box. You have to purchase a second remote separately if you want one.
> 
> --Bob



I used one of the two remotes for about 3 minutes while my

Crestron IR learner learned the codes and it hasn't been out

off the SHELF since then.


----------



## EL

not everyone is blessed with a Cre$tron system, so I guess having basic multizone and 2 Anthem remotes could be cool.


----------



## Texas steve

WOW, I only had ONE remote in the box. So now they owe me a cable AND a remote!!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *highanddry* /forum/post/17132087
> 
> 
> I received my D2v at about the same time as Texas steve did.
> 
> 
> I have the correct serial cable but my gear came with only a single remote. No big deal; I followed up with the dealer and a second remote was in shipping the next day. Anthem wanted to know the serial number of my D2v, so I am sure they monitor their QA/QC.
> 
> 
> I agree that having the wrong serial cable is a let down, as is having a single remote, but it's not as if this inconvenience is going to change my mind on the gear. I've waited a long time to have such capable equipment; so waiting three more days for the second remote is bug dirt.
> 
> 
> Perhaps there were having to work double time in shipping after the week long plant shutdown for inventory/vacation.
> 
> 
> We'll all survive.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Page 1 of the Manual shows the correct packing list. Use that to double check that you've got everything.*


Note that the D2v and AVM 50v have one difference -- the AVM 50v gets only one remote (w/ batteries). Well two differences if you count the unit itself.


The "IR Terminal Block" is shipped already installed on the rear of the unit.


While you are at it, double check the ARC software install CD. It should have a label matching the serial number of your Anthem processor AND the serial number of your ARC mic.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Yep it says 2 removes for the D2v I got everyting else, along with the PAIN of the wrong "Serial extension cable"



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17132197
> 
> *Page 1 of the Manual shows the correct packing list. Use that to double check that you've got everything.*
> 
> 
> Note that the D2v and AVM 50v have one difference -- the AVM 50v gets only one remote (w/ batteries). Well two differences if you count the unit itself.
> 
> 
> The "IR Terminal Block" is shipped already installed on the rear of the unit.
> 
> 
> While you are at it, double check the ARC software install ID. It should have a label matching the serial number of your Anthem processor AND the serial number of your ARC mic.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## highanddry

Meh.


If any of y'all get to your wits end with Anthem and wanna give your gear away, just PM me and I'll gladly take your D2v or AVM50v off your hands. I still have several zones in my house with screen/speakers that could use a sweet processor.


Fret not, I'll cover the shipping.







. I might even throw in the Denon.


One thing is certain...Anthem listens. They improve their product based on customer feedback. Their product includes packaging and shipping. The communication lines are open to Anthem. Let 'em know your beefs.


On a closing note; I hope this doesn't violate forum rules, but I'd like to put a plug in for The Power Station in London, Ontario with respect to my dealings for my Anthem gear. Ontarians should check out this Anthem retailer if they are considering a purchase.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nice try, highanddry! But you're not getting your hands on MY D2v!









--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EL* /forum/post/17132137
> 
> 
> not everyone is blessed with a Cre$tron system, so I guess having basic multizone and 2 Anthem remotes could be cool.



Anthem is a HIGH-END Pre-Pro - therefore you need a High-End

Control System to TAME it










Nick even told me some things I could do with the Crestron

controlling the D2 that I could not have guessed


----------



## Charlie_Phogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17132114
> 
> 
> I hope it turns out that the supplier just included one wrong cable in a batch of otherwise correct cables. It's much easier to understand how Anthem manufacturing could have missed that.



My replacement D2v shipped out from Anthem the week of Aug 17th. It came with the correct cable and both remotes (as did my original D2v). At least I don't see any Null Modem markings on it but it is still sealed in the original bag. Hopefully, this is just a one-off mistake by the supplier.


----------



## Texas steve

If it IS a null modem, it will say so on each white end piece











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Charlie_Phogg* /forum/post/17132347
> 
> 
> My replacement D2v shipped out from Anthem the week of Aug 17th. It came with the correct cable and both remotes (as did my original D2v). At least I don't see any Null Modem markings on it but it is still sealed in the original bag. Hopefully, this is just a one-off mistake by the supplier.


----------



## Lurk

Hi, all.


I'm a longtime reader, first time poster here, and I'm not even sure this is the right thread to ask this question in. I've found a lot of great information here so I thought I would try.


I'm an overall very happy new owner of an AVM 50v, but I'm tearing my hair out trying to make the sound work properly on a monaural blu ray disc (the Criterion edition of _Wages of Fear_. Sound plays at the disc's main menu, but in the film itself I can't hear anything from the monaural French audio track (the only one on the disc).


At the menu screen, the AVM plays a 2.0 signal with its correct preset mode.


During the film, the AVM status display shows the signal coming from my Pioneer Elite BDP-23FD as PCM 4.0. The Input Format screen gives R, L, RS, LS. The Pioneer (correctly) says the audio channel is Linear PCM 1 Ch. I can only think that my front and surround speakers are getting fed blank signals while my center speaker isn't sent anything.


I've spent a lot of time playing around with all the audio options I could think to try. So far nothing has worked. Does anyone have any suggestions? I haven't found anything by searching the forum.


The receiver and BR player software is up to date.


Thanks very much.


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17131438
> 
> 
> The trade-in prices are not up on the web site yet. But I'm sure the prices emailed out by Nick and Piero are "official".
> 
> 
> Since the dealer doesn't have to do anything except process the order, I can't imagine they'd have a problem honoring those prices.
> 
> --Bob



Have all the prices been posted in one place yet, even on the forum? I have a D1HD (converted D1 to D2, red video bd but toroid ps), and didn't find that upgrade price.


Also, do you know why they opted for replacement rather than upgrade?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/17132681
> 
> 
> Have all the prices been posted in one place yet, even on the forum? I have a D1HD (converted D1 to D2, red video bd but toroid ps), and didn't find that upgrade price.
> 
> 
> Also, do you know why they opted for replacement rather than upgrade?



The prices have come in kind of scattered. It also depends on whether or not you already have an ARC license. Best to email Anthem with your particular situation.


I presume the demands they were getting to include more and more in the cost of an "upgrade" -- e.g. a new front panel -- meant there was really no point to doing it that way. Not to mention that upgrades involve extra logistics to make sure the factory can turn them around fast enough for each owner.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lurk* /forum/post/17132443
> 
> 
> Hi, all.
> 
> 
> I'm a longtime reader, first time poster here, and I'm not even sure this is the right thread to ask this question in. I've found a lot of great information here so I thought I would try.
> 
> 
> I'm an overall very happy new owner of an AVM 50v, but I'm tearing my hair out trying to make the sound work properly on a monaural blu ray disc (the Criterion edition of _Wages of Fear_. Sound plays at the disc's main menu, but in the film itself I can't hear anything from the monaural French audio track (the only one on the disc).
> 
> 
> At the menu screen, the AVM plays a 2.0 signal with its correct preset mode.
> 
> 
> During the film, the AVM status display shows the signal coming from my Pioneer Elite BDP-23FD as PCM 4.0. The Input Format screen gives R, L, RS, LS. The Pioneer (correctly) says the audio channel is Linear PCM 1 Ch. I can only think that my front and surround speakers are getting fed blank signals while my center speaker isn't sent anything.
> 
> 
> I've spent a lot of time playing around with all the audio options I could think to try. So far nothing has worked. Does anyone have any suggestions? I haven't found anything by searching the forum.
> 
> 
> The receiver and BR player software is up to date.
> 
> 
> Thanks very much.



This is pretty strange. I think it would be best if you talk to Anthem tech support directly on this one. They may have some history with that player. Normally a monaural track will be sent as 2.0 (LF/RF with the same content in both) for HDMI LPCM or as 1.0 (Center only) for HDMI Bitstream.


ETA: Make sure you don't have a "surround sound" processing mode turned on in the player -- such as Dolby PLIIx -- which might be trying to create surround sound channels from the monaural content.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lurk* /forum/post/17132443
> 
> 
> I've spent a lot of time playing around with all the audio options I could think to try. So far nothing has worked. Does anyone have any suggestions? I haven't found anything by searching the forum.



Just in case you want to watch the movie while Anthem percolates on your situation, you can use the S/PDIF output of the player, and turn on PLII in the Anthem to get a mono signal to the C speaker.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17130266
> 
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> Unlike the case with the original D2 and AVM 50, Anthem has chosen to offer a "trade-in" program for customers wanting to upgrade to a new D2v or AVM 50v rather than sending in your old unit to be re-worked as an "upgrade". On the plus side, you get an entirely new unit with a complete new unit warranty. On the down side it costs more. Trade-in pricing is already in dealer's hands, and you should be able to do a trade-in right now. However, we have not yet had the first post here from anyone who has actually received a new D2v via trade-in. (*There's a nice, hot cookie for the first poster to confirm deliver of a new D2v or AVM 50v purchased via the trade-in program!)* ...
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I traded in my AVM30 to get an AVM50v. Does this count for a cookie







?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17133885
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I traded in my AVM30 to get an AVM50v. Does this count for a cookie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?



Was this part of Anthem's trade-in program, or something that your dealer did just for you? That is, did the AVM 30 get sent back to Anthem to complete the transaction or is the dealer himself going to resell it?


If it was under Anthem's corporate program that sure is worth a cookie!

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

Ok, after yet more tweaking and having done the volume trim setting that Bob recommended (thanks again Bob!), here are my latest charts.


----------



## butterbars

Ran ARC a second time after repositioning my front L/R and sub and adjusting the treble switches on my surrounds.


I'll have to keep tweaking the sub's position to give ARC something better to work with, because it looks like ARC can't (and probably shouldn't try to) boost it enough above 50HZ. Is that why the targets page shows a sub response cutoff of 120 hz, but the sub crossover it loaded into the D2v is 60 hz? Also, I'm wondering why it can't cut the rising response below 30 hz.


I just love how it sounds. It has done an amazing job of integrating the sub and main speakers, and it's the first time I don't realize I'm listening to a sub. The definition in the bass is now in another league, and the improvement in the rest of the range is just as dramatic.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/17135319
> 
> 
> Ok, after yet more tweaking and having done the volume trim setting that Bob recommended (thanks again Bob!), here are my latest charts.



Your speakers Measure remarkably clean even before ARC did anything. Frankly, they Measure so good I'm a little suspicious that something might be wrong.


We had one previous case where a random bug in ARC caused it to leave the prior ARC solution in place when it did its new set of Measurements -- so of course it was measuring "already corrected" speakers, which is not right. I.e., the new solution it came up with applied very little correction and thus undid the correction that was previously in there.


If that's what happened, you would notice the red Measured curves looking much worse the next time you do a Measurement pass after Uploading these results.


But I think that bug is fixed, and there are SOME areas where your Measured curves show the need for correction, so perhaps this really is OK as is.


------------------------------------------


I have two suggestions for you. First, you might as well raise Max EQ Frequency Target up to 20KHz. ARC has very little work to do over the bulk of the frequency range so it should be able to correct all the way up there without diminishing its results at lower frequencies.


Second, your room Measures as having very little Room Gain. Particularly for Movies, you might like the results better if your "force" some more Room Gain into the solution. You are at about 0.6dB now. I suggest you try 2dB or 2.5dB. Leave the "force" box checked next to that value in the Targets window. You can make this adjustment and re-Calculate (and re-Upload) without having to Measure again.


Your Music configuration is identical to your Movie configuration so at the moment you don't really need both of them. But you might want to leave Music with the Room Gain as is and just raise it for Movie. Then you can easily switch between the two while listening to movies or to music and see which you prefer (set up two Sources that are identical except that one uses Movie and the other Music). Movie mixes are typically made under the assumption there's around 2 to 4 dB of Room Gain in the home theater. Music mixes probably are OK with a flatter room such as yours.


The increased Room Gain will show in the new charts as a shallow hump near the crossover frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Bob, Im starting to get this all togheter now. I have a question.


DVD & CD from HDMI. I set up the DVD source, no problem. In setting up the CD source, under "audio in" I want to chose DVD or HDMI1, but that choice is not there. there is something called "dig Opt 1",2,3 then there are Coax options. I dont know what "Dig Opt 1" is or how to configure. How do I get the audio in to HDMI1?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17135472
> 
> 
> DVD & CD from HDMI. I set up the DVD source, no problem. In setting up the CD source, under "audio in" I want to chose DVD or HDMI1, but that choice is not there. there is something called "dig Opt 1",2,3 then there are Coax options. I dont know what "Dig Opt 1" is or how to configure. How do I get the audio in to HDMI1?



Make sure you have Scaler = HDMI1 set as well, or else the CD source will not show HDMI1 as a choice.


(I assume you are using your DVD player as a CD transport as well.)


----------



## butterbars




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/17135319
> 
> 
> Ok, after yet more tweaking and having done the volume trim setting that Bob recommended (thanks again Bob!), here are my latest charts.



Nicoff,


How does it sound?


That looks really good to me, in fact your actual measured response isn't far off the targets. Is your room treated?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *butterbars* /forum/post/17135461
> 
> 
> Ran ARC a second time after repositioning my front L/R and sub and adjusting the treble switches on my surrounds.
> 
> 
> I'll have to keep tweaking the sub's position to give ARC something better to work with, because it looks like ARC can't (and probably shouldn't try to) boost it enough above 50HZ. Is that why the targets page shows a sub response cutoff of 120 hz, but the sub crossover it loaded into the D2v is 60 hz? Also, I'm wondering why it can't cut the rising response below 30 hz.
> 
> 
> I just love how it sounds. It has done an amazing job of integrating the sub and main speakers, and it's the first time I don't realize I'm listening to a sub. The definition in the bass is now in another league, and the improvement in the rest of the range is just as dramatic.



Your surrounds look fine now. The residual error at 20KHz is small enough to be ignored.


Your LF/RF and C speakers still look like they could be tweaked up a bit better at the highest frequencies by adjusting their pointing.


The residual error in the sub at 50Hz (after ARC's applied correction) is small enough to ignore. The peak near 20Hz is probably uncorrected because ARC is still having to do primarily boost corrections above that frequency for the sub. Corrections tend to spread out a bit so a lot of boost to one side of a frequency makes it harder to apply enough cut at that frequency.


The "cutoff" and "crossover" values are two different things. Crossover controls bass steering, and is set low in your sub because your main speakers are good in bass already and thus their crossover values are low. Cutoff controls room correction and is set higher in your sub so that higher bass frequencies going to the sub from the LFE channel have the benefit of correction the sub needs up there. LFE is handled specially and is not reduced by the crossover for the sub.


I think your sub could still benefit from some repositioning experiments, or perhaps the application of some bass traps on the walls/corner behind it. But the calculated results you have for it right now are really not that bad at all, so you might want to just go with what you've got for the sub.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Texas Steve,


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17135504
> 
> 
> Make sure you have Scaler = HDMI1 set as well, or else the CD source will not show HDMI1 as a choice.
> 
> 
> (I assume you are using your DVD player as a CD transport as well.)



^^^ What he said.


The only way to get HDMI audio is to have the HDMI input stream "processed" -- and you do that by telling Setup > Source Setup to send that HDMI input to the Scaler. HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of HDMI video. So there is always an HDMI video stream even if it happens to be merely a static, black screen.


If you don't want video while playing CDs simply turn off your display.


Dig Opt 1,2,3 and the Coax inputs are the Optical and Coax digital audio input jacks on the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17135504
> 
> 
> Make sure you have Scaler = HDMI1 set as well, or else the CD source will not show HDMI1 as a choice.
> 
> 
> (I assume you are using your DVD player as a CD transport as well.)



Yep that was it, THANKS! I had "scaler off" because with CD I wasent scaling anything!!


----------



## Texas steve

Dont see it in the manual but is there a way of having the unit come on in a specific source. Default seems to be FM


thanks again guys this forum is great!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17135896
> 
> 
> Dont see it in the manual but is there a way of having the unit come on in a specific source. Default seems to be FM
> 
> 
> thanks again guys this forum is great!



If you power on by using a source select button, then the unit powers up on that source (in the Main path). If you power up using the power button it powers up on whatever source was last active in the Main path when it was powered down.


If you reset the unit completely by turning off the back panel power switch, then it will treat FM/AM as the last used source when it next powers up. Note that firmware installs and ARC Measurement also switch to the FM/AM source as part of their preliminaries, which means that will become the default source the first time you power up after doing those.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Good info, so Ill set it to power on using the direct source buttons. Otherwise if I just use the power button is could go to the last source vs the one I want. That could be a problem, I might want FM and the last thing I did was watch a DVD (screen down etc).


Thanks again for all your help.

Im getting all my sources lined up, my Nevo remote to work, Ive set speaker distances and did a Radio Shack meter quick level set up. Once Ive get my remote to where all works well, Im then going to run ARC. Because once I run it Im sure Ill want to listen and enjoy and I dont want to have to *&^$ with 5 remotes.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17136098
> 
> 
> If you power on by using a source select button, then the unit powers up on that source (in the Main path). If you power up using the power button it powers up on whatever source was last active in the Main path when it was powered down.
> 
> 
> If you reset the unit completely by turning off the back panel power switch, then it will treat FM/AM as the last used source when it next powers up. Note that firmware installs and ARC Measurement also switch to the FM/AM source as part of their preliminaries, which means that will become the default source the first time you power up after doing those.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Texas steve

OK I give, I cant find in the manual where I set up the D2v to turn on when pressing a source button vs the main power button!! Anyone direct me please.

thanks











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17136098
> 
> 
> If you power on by using a source select button, then the unit powers up on that source (in the Main path). If you power up using the power button it powers up on whatever source was last active in the Main path when it was powered down.
> 
> 
> If you reset the unit completely by turning off the back panel power switch, then it will treat FM/AM as the last used source when it next powers up. Note that firmware installs and ARC Measurement also switch to the FM/AM source as part of their preliminaries, which means that will become the default source the first time you power up after doing those.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ooops! You can't do that from the Remote. You can power up with a source selector using the Front Panel buttons. Or I suppose via the RS-232 control interface.


If you are worried about the screen coming down and then being sent back up again, change to a source with the screen up (perhaps an unused source) before you power down. Then when you power up the screen will stay up until you select a source that needs it down.

--Bob


----------



## WildZero

Hello,


Update to my AC3 -> Demodulator -> D2v problem. Converted the coax signal

to an optical signal. Now it works perfectly! weird!









As soon as the cable arrives i will try the AES/EBU input and see if this works as well.


----------



## Texas steve

Yep thats what Ill do, ill just add a unused source in the macro prior to every turn off ! Bummer that would be good if you could do it via the remote!


Thanks Bob - by the way, do you LIVE on this forum??????












> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17136537
> 
> 
> Ooops! You can't do that from the Remote. You can power up with a source selector using the Front Panel buttons. Or I suppose via the RS-232 control interface.
> 
> 
> If you are worried about the screen coming down and then being sent back up again, change to a source with the screen up (perhaps an unused source) before you power down. Then when you power up the screen will stay up until you select a source that needs it down.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17136629
> 
> 
> Yep thats what Ill do, ill just add a unused source in the macro prior to every turn off ! Bummer that would be good if you could do it via the remote!
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob - by the way, do you LIVE on this forum??????



We here at "Bob Pariseau" have discovered that being shackled to one's computer can become quite comfortable after you get used to it....

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve









My wife comes up and gives me that "look" when Im here to long! And this weekend with the new D2v well.....................


By the way I guess when I program my remote (Nevo) when I program "power on" I guess Ihave to add a long "delay" before sending the choosen source IR? It seems like the D2v "computes" for about 15 seconds or so am I right? If so, thats a long time for the wife to keep pointing the remote!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17136667
> 
> 
> We here at "Bob Pariseau" have discovered that being shackled to one's computer can become quite comfortable after you get used to it....
> 
> --Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/17136596
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Update to my AC3 -> Demodulator -> D2v problem. Converted the coax signal
> 
> to an optical signal. Now it works perfectly! weird!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As soon as the cable arrives i will try the AES/EBU input and see if this works as well.



3 Cheers


----------



## Texas steve

NOPE! just tried it you DONT have to wait! when you power up the D2v after about 2 seconds hit your source and walaha!! I thought you would have to wait till in fully cycled on! Great news for those who have wifes who cant hold the remote in one direction for long!!!













> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17136691
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife comes up and gives me that "look" when Im here to long! And this weekend with the new D2v well.....................
> 
> 
> By the way I guess when I program my remote (Nevo) when I program "power on" I guess Ihave to add a long "delay" before sending the choosen source IR? It seems like the D2v "computes" for about 15 seconds or so am I right? If so, thats a long time for the wife to keep pointing the remote!


----------



## peechus

just finished remeasuring (11 times) hoping to optimize the room,speakers, seating for the best music room jazz. a bass resonance,no, a bass aura from about 150hz on down reminds me of when the loudness control was on playing loud music. plucked bass or B3 organ pedals ruins everything. it appears with the bigger babys butt the bigger the boom. different measurements reveal increased room gain with the max eq frequency set at 10k. how can i lower room gain and lower this cloudy mush? audiophiles...it hurts.


----------



## Texas steve

My wife would have whiped me about the 5th time!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/17136890
> 
> 
> just finished remeasuring (11 times) hoping to optimize the room,speakers, seating for the best music room jazz. a bass resonance,no, a bass aura from about 150hz on down reminds me of when the loudness control was on playing loud music. plucked bass or B3 organ pedals ruins everything. it appears with the bigger babys butt the bigger the boom. different measurements reveal increased room gain with the max eq frequency set at 10k. how can i lower room gain and lower this cloudy mush? audiophiles...it hurts.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/17136890
> 
> 
> just finished remeasuring (11 times) hoping to optimize the room,speakers, seating for the best music room jazz. a bass resonance,no, a bass aura from about 150hz on down reminds me of when the loudness control was on playing loud music. plucked bass or B3 organ pedals ruins everything. it appears with the bigger babys butt the bigger the boom. different measurements reveal increased room gain with the max eq frequency set at 10k. how can i lower room gain and lower this cloudy mush? audiophiles...it hurts.



Please post your ARC charts here as well as your ARC Targets window. Also please post what ARC has Uploaded to your Setup > Level Calibration menu and also the Subwoofer crossover value it has Uploaded to your Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie / Music menus.


The most common reason for poor ARC results is simply forgetting to go into Setup > Source Setup and manually turn on Room EQ for each Source after your first ARC Upload.


The next most common reason is not paying sufficient attention to the ARC mic positioning instructions in Section 3.15 of the Manual.


If those don't lead to an easy fix, post the charts and values and folks here we'll see what you've got.


The Max EQ Frequency target value is only used during Calculations. It has nothing to do with how ARC Measures and reports Room Gain. So if you are seeing dramatically different Room Gain values reported in different Measurement passes, something is wrong.

--Bob


----------



## brusteraider

Well I wasn't going to post until I actually received my D2v2, but thought I better post and tell you that the trade-in program has officially begun. Last week I got an Return Authorization number from Piero as well as a Credit card authorization form to Trade in my D1-HD/D2 (upgraded D1). The prices are the same as the ones posted earlier, and the procedure is same as the last upgrade were you send your unit to their warehouse in New York and they Truck it over the border to the factory. Piero said he will tell me when it reaches the factory and I presume they will send the new unit out. I will post when I receive it.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17134838
> 
> 
> Was this part of Anthem's trade-in program, or something that your dealer did just for you? That is, did the AVM 30 get sent back to Anthem to complete the transaction or is the dealer himself going to resell it?
> 
> 
> If it was under Anthem's corporate program that sure is worth a cookie!
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That's great! Keep track of the total turnaround time. It's quite possible they may send the new unit out before they actually receive the trade-in unit.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17135469
> 
> 
> Your speakers Measure remarkably clean even before ARC did anything. Frankly, they Measure so good I'm a little suspicious that something might be wrong.
> 
> 
> We had one previous case where a random bug in ARC caused it to leave the prior ARC solution in place when it did its new set of Measurements -- so of course it was measuring "already corrected" speakers, which is not right. I.e., the new solution it came up with applied very little correction and thus undid the correction that was previously in there.
> 
> 
> If that's what happened, you would notice the red Measured curves looking much worse the next time you do a Measurement pass after Uploading these results.
> 
> 
> But I think that bug is fixed, and there are SOME areas where your Measured curves show the need for correction, so perhaps this really is OK as is.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I have two suggestions for you. First, you might as well raise Max EQ Frequency Target up to 20KHz. ARC has very little work to do over the bulk of the frequency range so it should be able to correct all the way up there without diminishing its results at lower frequencies.
> 
> 
> Second, your room Measures as having very little Room Gain. Particularly for Movies, you might like the results better if your "force" some more Room Gain into the solution. You are at about 0.6dB now. I suggest you try 2dB or 2.5dB. Leave the "force" box checked next to that value in the Targets window. You can make this adjustment and re-Calculate (and re-Upload) without having to Measure again.
> 
> 
> Your Music configuration is identical to your Movie configuration so at the moment you don't really need both of them. But you might want to leave Music with the Room Gain as is and just raise it for Movie. Then you can easily switch between the two while listening to movies or to music and see which you prefer (set up two Sources that are identical except that one uses Movie and the other Music). Movie mixes are typically made under the assumption there's around 2 to 4 dB of Room Gain in the home theater. Music mixes probably are OK with a flatter room such as yours.
> 
> 
> The increased Room Gain will show in the new charts as a shallow hump near the crossover frequencies.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I have incorporated the two suggestions that you made, namely: increased the gain for the movie configuration to 2.5db while keeping the gain for the music configuration the same; and also raised the eq to 20,000 for both. I have included the new charts below.


I should mention that I recently upgraded the front and surround speakers. The new speaker charts show an improvement over previous charts using the old speakers.


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *butterbars* /forum/post/17135508
> 
> 
> Nicoff,
> 
> 
> How does it sound?
> 
> 
> That looks really good to me, in fact your actual measured response isn't far off the targets. Is your room treated?



Butterbars,

The sound is really fantastic. The best that I have ever heard in my dedicated home theater/music listening room.


I have no room treatments at all. The room is very large: 18'-6" wide, 27' long. Ceiling is 10"-6" high. I recently upgraded my front speakers and moved my old fronts to the rear. My front and rear speakers are Magnepans (two 20.1 in the front, two MG-3.6R in the rear), my center channel is a B&W nautilus HTM2. I also have a 18" Velodyne sub. My front speakers are placed 6 feet away from the wall and about 3 feet from the side walls; they are about 10 feet apart from each other (when watching movies the screen fills the space between the two front speakers). I sit 13 feet away from the front speakers and have about 7 feet of clear space behind me. The rear speakers are about 5 feet behind me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/17137516
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I have incorporated the two suggestions that you made, namely: increased the gain for the movie configuration to 2.5db while keeping the gain for the music configuration the same; and also raised the eq to 20,000 for both. I have included the new charts below.
> 
> 
> I should mention that I recently upgraded the front and surround speakers. The new speaker charts show an improvement over previous charts using the old speakers.



Time to declare victory! Your results look excellent and should sound excellent.

--Bob


----------



## huetamo

Okay, after reading this tread for some time, I ordered the ARC1 kit for my AVM 50. I have a couple of questions, but first let me tell you about my sound system. Front paradigm signature S4, C3 center, ADP3 surrounds and small OM-570 for rear. NHT classic U2 sub woofer system has two subwoofers enclosures each with 12'' woofer and X1 electronic crossover. Note I use the X1 to control the gain, phase and "boundary" leaving the AVM 50 to control the crossover.


This is my first posting in the forum. I hope I did everything correctly. Please I need some review of the chart attachments and any suggestions.


I made some calibration(3 total) moving the fronts closer and away from the walls and the subwoofers to the front wall. Finally I put the subs midpoint of the side walls. In all the positions that I put the fronts and subs Arc1 sets the front center and subs to 60 HZ, surrounds to 105 Hz and rears to 85Hz. My question, is this normal for the ARC to sets the same frequency even if I move the speakers to another location in the room? Also I would think the surrounds can go lower then the ARC settings of 105 Hz. I'm very happy with the sound in movie and music, the sound is very clean.


Please any suggestions are welcome .

Thanks for your time


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17134838
> 
> 
> Was this part of Anthem's trade-in program, or something that your dealer did just for you? That is, did the AVM 30 get sent back to Anthem to complete the transaction or is the dealer himself going to resell it?
> 
> 
> If it was under Anthem's corporate program that sure is worth a cookie!
> 
> --Bob



I remember the dealer indecisive about re-selling it or sending it back to Anthem. Probably sold it on audiogon...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *huetamo* /forum/post/17137948
> 
> 
> Okay, after reading this tread for some time, I ordered the ARC1 kit for my AVM 50. I have a couple of questions, but first let me tell you about my sound system. Front paradigm signature S4, C3 center, ADP3 surrounds and small OM-570 for rear. NHT classic U2 sub woofer system has two subwoofers enclosures each with 12'' woofer and X1 electronic crossover. Note I use the X1 to control the gain, phase and "boundary" leaving the AVM 50 to control the crossover.
> 
> 
> This is my first posting in the forum. I hope I did everything correctly. Please I need some review of the chart attachments and any suggestions.
> 
> 
> I made some calibration(3 total) moving the fronts closer and away from the walls and the subwoofers to the front wall. Finally I put the subs midpoint of the side walls. In all the positions that I put the fronts and subs Arc1 sets the front center and subs to 60 HZ, surrounds to 105 Hz and rears to 85Hz. My question, is this normal for the ARC to sets the same frequency even if I move the speakers to another location in the room? Also I would think the surrounds can go lower then the ARC settings of 105 Hz. I'm very happy with the sound in movie and music, the sound is very clean.
> 
> 
> Please any suggestions are welcome .
> 
> Thanks for your time



First of all, welcome to AVS and to the Cool Kids Thread!


What you've got now is looking pretty good. It is, indeed, normal for ARC to choose the same crossovers for speakers regardless of location. The crossovers are determined by the actual frequency performance of the speakers as adjusted to work best with each other. Typically this isn't altered enough by room response characteristics to make much difference at different speaker locations.


For example, your Side surrounds Measure (red curve) as dropping off pretty fast below 100Hz. There is no evidence of a room null near 100Hz that might be confusing ARC here so I would expect ARC to decide on a crossover for them above 100Hz regardless of location.


This may very well be the natural (designed in) response for these surrounds, but you should check to make sure there isn't a way to reconfigure them for more bass. For example they may have a bass port that can be opened. And some speakers have separate input jacks for bass, so make sure they are wired up (usually by buss bars to the other jacks at the speaker).


But where they are right now is probably fine because your sub will cover for them below 100Hz.


-----------------------------------


ARC is having a little trouble providing complete correction for Center at 80Hz, but the residual error is so small my recommendation would be to ignore it. (If you feel like fiddling further, this is likely a room null, so some small repositioning of Center might reduce the dip a couple dB so ARC can apply full correction.)


------------------------------------


Which leaves your subwoofer.


Now my usual recommendation for folks that have processing electronics for a sub, is to disable or remove the extra electronics and let ARC do all the work. It looks like you have disabled crossover processing in your sub setup -- which is good. I.e., let ARC do that. And it really doesn't matter whether you do Polarity/Phase in the sub electronics or in the Anthem. But I think you should consider disabling any Boundary Gain adjustment or Subsonic Filter in your sub electronics as ARC will take care of that for you.


Right now your sub Measures weak in subsonics. It is good down to about 35Hz -- which may be a proper limit for the 12 inch drivers. But you can get subs that will go an octave deeper into the subsonics.


So first check that you haven't artificially limited your sub's capabilities in the subsonics by applying a subsonic filter or Boundary Gain reduction in your sub electronics.


You may also get a bit more low frequency output by putting the sub closer to a solid wall/corner and taking advantage of Boundary Gain.


Next time you post, capture your Targets window as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17138254
> 
> 
> I remember the dealer indecisive about re-selling it or sending it back to Anthem. Probably sold it on audiogon...



I think that may have been a dealer "deal" for you then, as opposed to the Anthem corporate trade-in program that's starting this month. Dealers have always been able to do trade-ins, with the incentive that a used equipment sale through an authorized dealer transfers the remaining warranty, so buyers would usually pay more.

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brusteraider* /forum/post/17137051
> 
> 
> Well I wasn't going to post until I actually received my D2v2, but thought I better post and tell you that the trade-in program has officially begun. Last week I got an Return Authorization number from Piero as well as a Credit card authorization form to Trade in my D1-HD/D2 (upgraded D1). The prices are the same as the ones posted earlier, and the procedure is same as the last upgrade were you send your unit to their warehouse in New York and they Truck it over the border to the factory. Piero said he will tell me when it reaches the factory and I presume they will send the new unit out. I will post when I receive it.



I am a little surprised that they want to receive the old one before they send out the new one. I wonder what the priorities are in terms of shipping:


1.) replacement of returns due to problems

2.) exchange

3.) new purchase


or vice-versa on the last two?


----------



## peechus

Included are charts and targets for last 2 ARC measurements. Unfortunately the level calibrate and sub crossover value were diddled with after the ARC run. Can this original information be accessed further?


This thread contains the previous files--next thread will have new files

Thanks. Peechus





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17137019
> 
> 
> Please post your ARC charts here as well as your ARC Targets window. Also please post what ARC has Uploaded to your Setup > Level Calibration menu and also the Subwoofer crossover value it has Uploaded to your Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie / Music menus.
> 
> 
> The most common reason for poor ARC results is simply forgetting to go into Setup > Source Setup and manually turn on Room EQ for each Source after your first ARC Upload.
> 
> 
> The next most common reason is not paying sufficient attention to the ARC mic positioning instructions in Section 3.15 of the Manual.
> 
> 
> If those don't lead to an easy fix, post the charts and values and folks here we'll see what you've got.
> 
> 
> The Max EQ Frequency target value is only used during Calculations. It has nothing to do with how ARC Measures and reports Room Gain. So if you are seeing dramatically different Room Gain values reported in different Measurement passes, something is wrong.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## peechus

Current measurements from peechus


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/17140227
> 
> 
> Included are charts and targets for last 2 ARC measurements. Unfortunately the level calibrate and sub crossover value were diddled with after the ARC run. Can this original information be accessed further?
> 
> 
> This thread contains the previous files--next thread will have new files
> 
> Thanks. Peechus



If you have modified the Targets values ARC selected based on your Measurements you can restore them by clicking on Auto Detect in the Targets window. Accept the restored values, re-Calculate, and re-Upload.


If you have modified the Setup menu settings that ARC has Uploaded you can restore them by opening your ARC results file in Advanced mode and just redoing the Upload. Or if you have saved your Setup menu settings into User or Installer Settings after the ARC Upload, then you can just restore the Setup menu settings from there.


NOTE: The Room Correction parameters ARC Uploads are stored in a special memory and are not saved or restored via the User/Installer memories.


--------------------------------------------


You can't modify the settings ARC has Uploaded into Setup > Level Calibration or Setup > Speaker Configuration without breaking the ARC solution. To make sure you don't accidentally undo what ARC has Uploaded, after doing an Upload and verifying the values in Setup look correct, you should Save User and Installer settings to capture those changes in those memories.


I strongly recommend you do not attempt to adjust the "cutoff" values in ARC's Targets window. The Max EQ Frequency value and possibly the Room Gain value are OK to adjust.


NOTE: It is normal for the Cutoff value for the subwoofer shown in ARC's Targets window to be different from the Crossover value ARC Uploads for the subwoofer. They control 2 different things.


-----------------------------------------------


ARC is doing quite a lot of correction for your setup, but there's really nothing out of line in these charts except that your Side Surround speakers are very weak in bass, and the basic volume level of the solution is rather high (it should be closer to 75dB).


I would expect ARC's results to sound quite a bit different from your uncorrected speakers. For example, you have a pretty significant Room Resonance near 40Hz that ARC is correcting.


But I see nothing in these charts (I'm looking at the second set you posted), that would suggest ARC was having problems or that might explain the results sounding bad to you. So let's revisit the basics:


-----------------------------------------------


What version of ARC are you using? Run ARC in Advanced mode and choose About from the Help menu.


What firmware version do you have installed on your Anthem? Press Select once on the remote and the version number will be in the first line of info displayed.


Did you recheck that you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ turned ON for each source?


------------------------------------------------------


Before doing your next Measurement pass, go through the exercise to adjust the basic volume level:


1) Go to Setup > Level Calibration and zero all the lines.


2) Select Manual mode in the first line.


3) Scroll down to "Test Level" ("Noise Level" in the older units) and adjust that line to yield 75dB SPL as measured by your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter. The test tone will be coming from the Left Front speaker. Set the meter to "Slow" response and "C" weighting. Point it straight up, held at arms length, at seated ear heigh, at your central seating position (ARC mic position #1). Keep it away from reflective surfaces like seat backs.


4) Leaving Test Level set that way, now scroll down to a subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB. Instead, adjust the volume knob built into your sub to yield 75dB SPL measured just as above.


ARC will use the Test Level value to set the volume of its test tone sweeps, and by adjusting the volume knob in the sub you have insured that it is already fairly close in volume to the main speakers. Ballpark settings are fine above as ARC will calculate and Upload precise volume trims for all the speakers.


---------------------------------------------


ARC mic positioning is critical to getting good results. Point the mic straight up and position it at seated ear height but not with the tip adjacent to a reflective surface such as a seat back or wall. Raise the mic tip a few inches or position it a foot or so closer to the screen to get it away from a seat back. Mic position #1 should be in the center at your preferred seating distance. Subsequent mic positions must alternate either side of #1. No two mic positions, whether or not sequential, should be closer than 24 inches apart -- I use 30 inches.


---------------------------------------------


ARC will generate crossovers, cutoffs, speaker volume trims, and room correction parameters. However you must manually enter your speaker distances (Setup > Listener Position), and you must manually adjust the Polarity/Phase for your subwoofer. Since ARC listens to only 1 speaker at a time, these distance and phase adjustments can safely be made AFTER setting up ARC.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I was running Lost in Space BD which is encoded at 1080i/60. When the Oppo was set to output 1080p/24 and the D2v was using video config 1080p/24 I got a lot of stuttering. Changed the Anthem back to 1080p/60 and it worked fine. I was under the impression the oppo could do the upconverting from 1080i/60 to 1080p/24, something the D2v can't yet do. I also noticed in the info display in the oppo, even when outputting native 1080i/60, it showed 29.545 not 23.947 or the like. Does this seem odd?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17141250
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I was running Lost in Space BD which is encoded at 1080i/60. When the Oppo was set to output 1080p/24 and the D2v was using video config 1080p/24 I got a lot of stuttering. Changed the Anthem back to 1080p/60 and it worked fine. I was under the impression the oppo could do the upconverting from 1080i/60 to 1080p/24, something the D2v can't yet do. I also noticed in the info display in the oppo, even when outputting native 1080i/60, it showed 29.545 not 23.947 or the like. Does this seem odd?
> 
> John



1080i/60 content on Blu-Ray is always video rate not film rate. It can not be converted to /24. Contrast with HD-DVD where film rate content is on disc as 1080i/60 (with progressive flags).


The Oppo will output that at video rate even if you have set 1080p/24 Auto or On.


Meanwhile if you attempt to force conversion to /24 in the D2v you will get stuttering because the content was never /24 to begin with. That is, there is no /24 stream to extract and there's no good way to decide which frames to discard to reduce the video rate stuff down to /24.


This sort of thing can happen when movies are shot with video cameras or when film stock is digitized and edited on video rate editing equipment (often to make it easier to incorporate special effects). Rather than switch back and forth between /24 and /60 content on the disc they do the whole thing at /60.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Does anyone have a refrence chart/article etc as to mic placement for ARC? I will be doing just 5 (as I have only a single couch) but I need to know the placement for each placement


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17141459
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a refrence chart/article etc as to mic placement for ARC? I will be doing just 5 (as I have only a single couch) but I need to know the placement for each placement



Try this sort of thing with 30" spacing:


4............................5

..\\........................./

...\\....................../

....2-------1-------3


It's OK if #4 and #5 are outside the arms of the sofa. When I do it this way, I've got #1, #2, and #3 just above the screen side of the sofa back (with #2 and #3 inboard of the outer seating positions) and #4 and #5 about equal with the front edge of the sofa outside the arms. All 5 positions are at the same height (seated ear height raised a little bit to be above the top back of the sofa).


Folks with two rows have also had good luck with a box configuration:


4........................5


.............1


2........................3


The idea is to sample the area around your seating (so you want some forward/back as well as side to side) while maintaining the minimum mic spacing and the alternating either side of #1 rule.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17141309
> 
> 
> 1080i/60 content on Blu-Ray is always video rate not film rate.
> 
> 
> That is, there is no /24 stream to extract and there's no good way to decide which frames to discard to reduce the video rate stuff down to /24.
> 
> 
> This sort of thing can happen when movies are shot with video cameras or when film stock is digitized and edited on video rate editing equipment (often to make it easier to incorporate special effects). Rather than switch back and forth between /24 and /60 content on the disc they do the whole thing at /60.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


I'm curous about this. Not that it's necessarily correct, but Blu-ray.com reports Lost in Space as 1080P.


Anyway, I understand about creating special effects in video domain for films, happens all the time. But eventually they print to film for theatrical release. Regardless of what went on in digital domain, the film print is 24p. If they telecine that film to make consumer release media, the source was 24p. Are you saying that some such films are not telecined from a final release print (or IP), but they went back a step to the digital printmaster? That's pretty cool. I thought only CG films did that.


But if these /24 /60 issues exist in the digital master, how could they make a proper 24p optical printmaster?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well apparently the disc JAYRAY has is 1080i/60 so they must have done it at least for the disc transfer. I wonder if there are any "How We Did It" extras on there that might discuss this.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks again!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17141624
> 
> 
> Try this sort of thing with 30" spacing:
> 
> 
> 4............................5
> 
> ..\\........................./
> 
> ...\\....................../
> 
> ....2-------1-------3
> 
> 
> It's OK if #4 and #5 are outside the arms of the sofa. When I do it this way, I've got #1, #2, and #3 just above the screen side of the sofa back (with #2 and #3 inboard of the outer seating positions) and #4 and #5 about equal with the front edge of the sofa outside the arms. All 5 positions are at the same height (seated ear height raised a little bit to be above the top back of the sofa).
> 
> 
> Folks with two rows have also had good luck with a box configuration:
> 
> 
> 4........................5
> 
> 
> .............1
> 
> 
> 2........................3
> 
> 
> The idea is to sample the area around your seating (so you want some forward/back as well as side to side) while maintaining the minimum mic spacing and the alternating either side of #1 rule.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17141309
> 
> 
> 1080i/60 content on Blu-Ray is always video rate not film rate. It can not be converted to /24. Contrast with HD-DVD where film rate content is on disc as 1080i/60 (with progressive flags).
> 
> 
> The Oppo will output that at video rate even if you have set 1080p/24 Auto or On.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile if you attempt to force conversion to /24 in the D2v you will get stuttering because the content was never /24 to begin with. That is, there is no /24 stream to extract and there's no good way to decide which frames to discard to reduce the video rate stuff down to /24.
> 
> 
> This sort of thing can happen when movies are shot with video cameras or when film stock is digitized and edited on video rate editing equipment (often to make it easier to incorporate special effects). Rather than switch back and forth between /24 and /60 content on the disc they do the whole thing at /60.
> 
> --Bob



thanks Bob. The back of the cover says 1080i but I had assumed it was 1080p thus my frustration as the movie began to stutter.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17141794
> 
> 
> thanks Bob. The back of the cover says 1080i but I had assumed it was 1080p thus my frustration as the movie began to stutter.
> 
> John



As Roger says, they must have gone to some special effort to do this, so there may even be some discussion of it in the "extras" on disc.


I must say, it's hard to imagine them going to special effort for this movie though....

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17141855
> 
> 
> As Roger says, they must have gone to some special effort to do this, so there may even be some discussion of it in the "extras" on disc.
> 
> 
> I must say, it's hard to imagine them going to special effort for this movie though....
> 
> --Bob



The diff b/t this and the SD version(video and audio) was one of the biggest of the many I've watched and the SD was pretty good. Makes watching Gladiator all the more annoying









John


----------



## gonzalc3

Does anyone know what DACs are in the AVM50v (Cirrus logic, wolfon, burr brown, etc)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick at Anthem took my suggestion and updated the password protected download page today to include *BOTH* "test" V2.07f and "test" V2.07g firmware for the D2v and the AMV 50v.


[It also still has "test" V1.47f firmware for the original D2 and AVM 50.]


Nick says he's gotten few other problem reports for V2.07g beyond the ones I've sent him. I don't know whether that means folks aren't using it, or just aren't trying the things I'm trying.


In any event, V2.07f is now available again as an alternative, or as a fallback if you try V2.07g and have problems.


It is still the case that both V2.07f and V2.07g come with the *SCARY WARNING!* If the install fails while programming the video board, you may have no recourse but to return the processor to Anthem for special reprogramming.


At this point, Nick thinks the next "test" version won't be out until sometime after CEDIA.


-------------------------------------------


ETA: One of the bugs I reported is in the V2.07g installer itself. When you fire it up, it mistakenly identifies itself as installing V2.07f. The code installed is actually V2.07g, and the version number that comes up in the Select display after the install shows V2.07g, but with both versions of the installer program now in the same download kit, pay particular attention to which one you start running, since the V2.07g installer will incorrectly display "V2.07f" on the instruction page when you are asked to click to start the install.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/17142198
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what DACs are in the AVM50v (Cirrus logic, wolfon, burr brown, etc)?



Beyond the fact that the audio DACs operate up to 24 bit 192KHz, I don't believe Anthem has published any info on them.


The Op Amps are Burr Brown according to the AVM 50v spec sheets.

--Bob


----------



## peechus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17140707
> 
> 
> If you have modified the Targets values ARC selected based on your Measurements you can restore them by clicking on Auto Detect in the Targets window. Accept the restored values, re-Calculate, and re-Upload.
> 
> 
> If you have modified the Setup menu settings that ARC has Uploaded you can restore them by opening your ARC results file in Advanced mode and just redoing the Upload. Or if you have saved your Setup menu settings into User or Installer Settings after the ARC Upload, then you can just restore the Setup menu settings from there.
> 
> 
> NOTE: The Room Correction parameters ARC Uploads are stored in a special memory and are not saved or restored via the User/Installer memories.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> You can't modify the settings ARC has Uploaded into Setup > Level Calibration or Setup > Speaker Configuration without breaking the ARC solution. To make sure you don't accidentally undo what ARC has Uploaded, after doing an Upload and verifying the values in Setup look correct, you should Save User and Installer settings to capture those changes in those memories.
> 
> 
> I strongly recommend you do not attempt to adjust the "cutoff" values in ARC's Targets window. The Max EQ Frequency value and possibly the Room Gain value are OK to adjust.
> 
> 
> NOTE: It is normal for the Cutoff value for the subwoofer shown in ARC's Targets window to be different from the Crossover value ARC Uploads for the subwoofer. They control 2 different things.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ARC is doing quite a lot of correction for your setup, but there's really nothing out of line in these charts except that your Side Surround speakers are very weak in bass, and the basic volume level of the solution is rather high (it should be closer to 75dB).
> 
> 
> I would expect ARC's results to sound quite a bit different from your uncorrected speakers. For example, you have a pretty significant Room Resonance near 40Hz that ARC is correcting.
> 
> 
> But I see nothing in these charts (I'm looking at the second set you posted), that would suggest ARC was having problems or that might explain the results sounding bad to you. So let's revisit the basics:
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> What version of ARC are you using? Run ARC in Advanced mode and choose About from the Help menu.
> 
> 
> What firmware version do you have installed on your Anthem? Press Select once on the remote and the version number will be in the first line of info displayed.
> 
> 
> Did you recheck that you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ turned ON for each source?
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Before doing your next Measurement pass, go through the exercise to adjust the basic volume level:
> 
> 
> 1) Go to Setup > Level Calibration and zero all the lines.
> 
> 
> 2) Select Manual mode in the first line.
> 
> 
> 3) Scroll down to "Test Level" ("Noise Level" in the older units) and adjust that line to yield 75dB SPL as measured by your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter. The test tone will be coming from the Left Front speaker. Set the meter to "Slow" response and "C" weighting. Point it straight up, held at arms length, at seated ear heigh, at your central seating position (ARC mic position #1). Keep it away from reflective surfaces like seat backs.
> 
> 
> 4) Leaving Test Level set that way, now scroll down to a subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB. Instead, adjust the volume knob built into your sub to yield 75dB SPL measured just as above.
> 
> 
> ARC will use the Test Level value to set the volume of its test tone sweeps, and by adjusting the volume knob in the sub you have insured that it is already fairly close in volume to the main speakers. Ballpark settings are fine above as ARC will calculate and Upload precise volume trims for all the speakers.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ARC mic positioning is critical to getting good results. Point the mic straight up and position it at seated ear height but not with the tip adjacent to a reflective surface such as a seat back or wall. Raise the mic tip a few inches or position it a foot or so closer to the screen to get it away from a seat back. Mic position #1 should be in the center at your preferred seating distance. Subsequent mic positions must alternate either side of #1. No two mic positions, whether or not sequential, should be closer than 24 inches apart -- I use 30 inches.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ARC will generate crossovers, cutoffs, speaker volume trims, and room correction parameters. However you must manually enter your speaker distances (Setup > Listener Position), and you must manually adjust the Polarity/Phase for your subwoofer. Since ARC listens to only 1 speaker at a time, these distance and phase adjustments can safely be made AFTER setting up ARC.
> 
> --Bob



The ARC room correction is showing version 2.2, while the firmware on the Anthem is 2.07--how do I correct?


Also, when running ARC, do I want to use Standard mode or advanced?

Peechus


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/17142529
> 
> 
> The ARC room correction is showing version 2.2, while the firmware on the Anthem is 2.07--how do I correct?
> 
> 
> Also, when running ARC, do I want to use Standard mode or advanced?
> 
> Peechus



The versions you have are correct already. The ARC version is for the Windows PC software. The firmware version is for the firmware inside your Anthem.


I suggest you run ARC in Advanced mode as it gives you more control over when the 3 phases happen: Measure, Calculate, Upload.

--Bob


----------



## flavorguy

My AVM50v developed a problem where no HDMI video was being sent either in or out from the unit. After reloading version 2.07e, and still having no HDMI output to my projector, Anthem tech support will send me a complete new video board.


Here's my question. If replacing the entire video board will I have to reload not only 2.07f, but reload ARC and redo all my measurements?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/17143835
> 
> 
> My AVM50v developed a problem where no HDMI video was being sent either in or out from the unit. After reloading version 2.07e, and still having no HDMI output to my projector, Anthem tech support will send me a complete new video board.
> 
> 
> Here's my question. If replacing the entire video board will I have to reload not only 2.07f, but reload ARC and redo all my measurements?



You have to re-install the unit firmware to initialize the new video board with firmware that recognizes it. If you are using V2.07f then that's what you would re-install.


After the re-install, if you Reload Saved User Settings you won't get your full set of video board settings. That's because Saved User/Installer Settings are actually stored in several different places in the hardware, and one of those is on the video board itself. Since you have a new board, you no longer have a memory of that portion of your old settings which were stashed there.


If you have saved you Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu settings to PC files (using Settings Backup and Live Video Settings Editor Windows PC utilities respectively), then you can reload from those PC files. Otherwise you will need to go through and double-check / re-enter your settings manually. In particular, you will have lost all of your Video Source Adjust menu settings, so they'll need to be re-entered.


-----------------------------


ARC's data is uploaded into special memory on the DSP board and in the Setup menu on the DSP board. So your ARC results should be intact after you Reload Saved User Settings or restore Setup menu from Settings Backup utility.


However, it is probably just as easy to open up your latest ARC results file in Advanced mode and simply do a new Upload. Do this AFTER you have the rest of your Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu back in place.


If you haven't moved any speakers during all this, there's no need to re-Measure for ARC.


----------------------------


So get the new board installed. Then do a Reload Factory Defaults and power down any HDMI connections. Then re-install the unit firmware. Then restore Setup menu and Video Sourced Adjust menu from PC files or doing it manually (Saved User Settings will get you some of that), then fire up your latest ARC results file in Advanced mode and do a new Upload. Then verify that Setup menu looks all correct, then finally Save User and Installer Settings to capture all that into those memories -- including on your new Video Board. Again, no need to re-Measure for ARC.

--Bob


----------



## huetamo

Bob, Thank you for looking at my charts, and for the fast response. I will try your suggestions this weekend, and I will post the result along with target page.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've done all the testing I care to do with "test" V2.07g firmware, so I've reverted my D2v back to "test" V2.07f while awaiting a newer version.


I've retested a few bugs that I thought were introduced by V2.07g, and indeed they don't exist in my re-installed V2.07f.


For example HDMI Bitstream of the 7.1 Dolby TrueHD Channel ID test from the new AIX audio calibration Blu-Ray disc is improperly down-mixed to 5.1 for my speakers in V2.07g. The rear channels play in both Front speakers as well as in the proper Side speaker. This problem doesn't exist in V2.07f.


And Bitstream of the 7.1 DTS-HD MA Channel ID test from that disc is incorrectly decoding the lossy "core" DTS track instead. Again this problem doesn't exist in V2.07f.


I don't want to discourage folks who want to test V2.07g to provide additional info and reports to Anthem. But I don't recommend V2.07g for normal use. So far, I have no such concerns about the prior, V2.07f "test" version.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

My avm-50 with ARC is being replaced with the V series in a week.


I was going to just enter everything in manually and not take the info from one and upload it in new one.


Is there any setting I want to change or keep all same?


dtv hd dvr is going in

the Sony BDP-S5000ES blu player is going in


Out to 60 inch Sony KDS-R60XBR2


Thanks for any information that may help.


----------



## Texas steve

Im going to Run ARC today for the frist time with my D2v. I am going to run one for movies (becasue the perferated screen is down over the center and I need ARC compensante) and the other one for music I have a couple of questions;


1. For music, I will not ever be using the center speaker. Do I tell ARC to do this by simplyly checkin no center, or do I simply run ARC with the center activated than choose "no center" in the music formats?

2. How do I copy/save the charts to uplaod to this site?


By the way I talked to Tech support (Carrol sp?) and they were amazed at the "null Cable" I got! The were going back to their units waiting to ship and check them all! The are sending me next day air a calbe and missing 2nd remote.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/17145767
> 
> 
> My avm-50 with ARC is being replaced with the V series in a week.
> 
> 
> I was going to just enter everything in manually and not take the info from one and upload it in new one.
> 
> 
> Is there any setting I want to change or keep all same?
> 
> 
> dtv hd dvr is going in
> 
> the Sony BDP-S5000ES blu player is going in
> 
> 
> Out to 60 inch Sony KDS-R60XBR2
> 
> 
> Thanks for any information that may help.



You can start with the identical settings.


If you use Settings Backup utility you can simply transfer you Setup menu settings to the new unit via a PC file.


If you use Live Video Settings Editor utility you can also transfer your Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file.


You will need to redo your ARC setup from scratch. Your old results file won't work because the serial number of the new unit will be different. In any event, the audio processing is sufficiently different in the new unit that it would be wise to re-Measure anyway.


After setting up the new unit, you should revisit your video calibration settings. Odds are you won't need any changes there, but particularly for analog (Component and S-video) inputs, subtle differences in the electronics may require modestly different settings.

--Bob


----------



## peechus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17142585
> 
> 
> The versions you have are correct already. The ARC version is for the Windows PC software. The firmware version is for the firmware inside your Anthem.
> 
> 
> I suggest you run ARC in Advanced mode as it gives you more control over when the 3 phases happen: Measure, Calculate, Upload.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I removed the two Eames chairs from the room, reduced to five mike positions you suggested for Texas Steve and recal'd speaker levels w/RS spl meter.Sounds much better. However, the Surround comment puzzles me. These are M&k dipoles mounted high on the wall slightly rearward past room center. Would replacing these with lower frequency output benefit ? Maybe less woofer action? My dealer went out of business just to prove how dumb I am. Enjoy reading you helping others. Now me...much obliged! peechus


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17146214
> 
> 
> Im going to Run ARC today for the frist time with my D2v. I am going to run one for movies (becasue the perferated screen is down over the center and I need ARC compensante) and the other one for music I have a couple of questions;
> 
> 
> 1. For music, I will not ever be using the center speaker. Do I tell ARC to do this by simplyly checkin no center, or do I simply run ARC with the center activated than choose "no center" in the music formats?
> 
> 2. How do I copy/save the charts to uplaod to this site?
> 
> 
> By the way I talked to Tech support (Carrol sp?) and they were amazed at the "null Cable" I got! The were going back to their units waiting to ship and check them all! The are sending me next day air a calbe and missing 2nd remote.



Yeah, I'll bet that cable snafu was a real eye-opener for them. That really shouldn't happen.


----------------------------------


For your Music setup you should tell ARC during Measurement that you won't be using Center for Music. ARC will build a better solution for the remaining speakers.


Now I've chosen to include the Surrounds in my Music setup even though I usually listen to stereo content in Stereo audio mode (just LF/RF/Sub active). My surrounds are good enough that I don't think this compromises the solution ARC is producing for Music, and by leaving them in I leave myself with the option of using, say PLIIx-Music audio mode when I want to.


When playing multi-channel music -- as from an SACD -- I use my Movie music mode, but I don't have a room configuration difference such as screen up/down to worry about.


You will have to decide how important it is to you that the screen be up when listening to multi-channel music. If that's important then you should instead tell ARC that your Music configuration *DOES* include center. Then, when listening to stereo sources, use an audio mode such as Stereo or Anthem Logic-Music which automatically excludes center, or use PLIIx-Music which has a separate parameter you can adjust to exclude Center.


For multi-channel Music sources you would use Music configuration with an audio mode that includes Center.


But you can't just use your ARC solution for Movie since that was Measured in the screen down configuration.


-------------------------------------


Look in Windows Help for the key combination for Screen Capture Active Window. It will be something like Alt-PrintScreen. That captures the active window into the Clipboard.


From there, you've got different ways to go. Some folks paste these into a Word file. I paste it into the Windows Paint app (included with Windows) and then Save As using JPEG file format to keep the size down.


You can't get all the charts visible at the same time so capture the top of the charts then scroll down and capture the bottom. Then switch to the Music charts (ARC View Menu) and capture those. Then bring up the Targets window and capture that. Altogether that makes 5 files.


When you are typing in your post here, look below the text type in box for Attach Files. You will be able to upload 3 files and then 2 more files to AVS, all of which will appear as links in your post. Use Preview Post to see that this is all working before you Submit Reply. Once you've made the post, the chart files are on AVS so you no longer need to keep them on your computer.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/17146872
> 
> 
> Bob, I removed the two Eames chairs from the room, reduced to five mike positions you suggested for Texas Steve and recal'd speaker levels w/RS spl meter.Sounds much better. However, the Surround comment puzzles me. These are M&k dipoles mounted high on the wall slightly rearward past room center. Would replacing these with lower frequency output benefit ? Maybe less woofer action? My dealer went out of business just to prove how dumb I am. Enjoy reading you helping others. Now me...much obliged! peechus



I'm glad things are starting work out!


The bass response in your Side surrounds (red Measured curve) is poor enough that they may simply be installed incorrectly. Some speakers have separate input jacks for bass and for mid-range/treble. Usually folks wire the two sets of jacks by cross connecting them with buss bars at the speaker (rather than running two sets of speaker wire to the speaker). Check your speakers to see if bass is not hooked up. In addition, some speakers have configuration options for bass. For example you may have a bass port you need to open to get the bass out.


NOTE: You need to manually set that your Side Surround speakers are Dipole in Setup > Speaker Configuration. However, this only alters how the speaker distance settings are applied so even if you have this wrong at the moment, that won't change what ARC is Measuring or the solution it calculates. It won't fix the bass problem for example.


Also, play some stereo content which includes bass using Stereo ALL audio mode, then go put your ear close to the bass driver in each speaker in turn and make sure the bass drivers in your Side surrounds are actually functioning. I don't really think you have a failed driver since both Side speakers Measure identically in bass, but it is worth checking.


There was a point some years back where speaker makers deliberately made surround speakers that were weak in both bass and treble since surround channels didn't use those that much (back then). So the poor bass in your Side surrounds may just be the way they are designed to work. In which case your recourse would be to replace them. A 130Hz crossover is pretty high, so I think it would be wise to deal with this, even though ARC is already filling in bass for those using your subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well I completed reverting back to V2.07f late last night (no problems).


WOW, what a difference!


Something is definitely screwed up in how audio is processed in V2.07g for my 5.1 speaker configuration. Details sent to Anthem.


Even though it isn't mentioned in the release notes, evidently they changed out the audio decoder package between V2.07f and V2.07g, and the new stuff is broken -- at least when using 5.1 speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan

I have an older Sony SXRD HDTV and today I am having delivered a New Panasonic V10 plasma.

I own an Anthem D2. I want to play Blu-rays in 1080P 24fps. My Sony couldn't do that my new HDTV will be able to.

I noticed the Video Out put configuration for my Blu-ray in the D2 menu is 1.

There is also 2, 3, and 4. No mention in the manual what it should be set to to play 1080p 24fps through this input.

What do I need to set it to to play 1080p 24fps?

Thanks.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Would anyone be nice of enough to help with my question on 24fps?


----------



## Texas steve

So Bob, to be sure I undersand. i CAN make two seperate ARC measurments one for movie (screen down) and then do a ARC for Music (screen up)? I dont like any of my music (CD) to have center channel and surrounds are fine with me for music.


So, when I start ARC (advanced) (not hooked up to D2v or mic) I have the tabs across the top, but a blank screen below. I assume I selcet "measure" and uncheck the box that says under Music "use movie config for music", and also uncheck "center" under music?


When I then hook up everyting, take the 5 measurments, I then have two uploads, one to save to music and one to movie? Just trying to undersand.


Also, on a seperate issue I notice that my HDMI cable box sound always says PCM AnthemLogic-Cin and I swear I dont hear any surrounds! I tried a couple of movies on the cbl that I know have surround. What am I missing?







> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17146927
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'll bet that cable snafu was a real eye-opener for them. That really shouldn't happen.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> For your Music setup you should tell ARC during Measurement that you won't be using Center for Music. ARC will build a better solution for the remaining speakers.
> 
> 
> Now I've chosen to include the Surrounds in my Music setup even though I usually listen to stereo content in Stereo audio mode (just LF/RF/Sub active). My surrounds are good enough that I don't think this compromises the solution ARC is producing for Music, and by leaving them in I leave myself with the option of using, say PLIIx-Music audio mode when I want to.
> 
> 
> When playing multi-channel music -- as from an SACD -- I use my Movie music mode, but I don't have a room configuration difference such as screen up/down to worry about.
> 
> 
> You will have to decide how important it is to you that the screen be up when listening to multi-channel music. If that's important then you should instead tell ARC that your Music configuration *DOES* include center. Then, when listening to stereo sources, use an audio mode such as Stereo or Anthem Logic-Music which automatically excludes center, or use PLIIx-Music which has a separate parameter you can adjust to exclude Center.
> 
> 
> For multi-channel Music sources you would use Music configuration with an audio mode that includes Center.
> 
> 
> But you can't just use your ARC solution for Movie since that was Measured in the screen down configuration.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Look in Windows Help for the key combination for Screen Capture Active Window. It will be something like Alt-PrintScreen. That captures the active window into the Clipboard.
> 
> 
> From there, you've got different ways to go. Some folks paste these into a Word file. I paste it into the Windows Paint app (included with Windows) and then Save As using JPEG file format to keep the size down.
> 
> 
> You can't get all the charts visible at the same time so capture the top of the charts then scroll down and capture the bottom. Then switch to the Music charts (ARC View Menu) and capture those. Then bring up the Targets window and capture that. Altogether that makes 5 files.
> 
> 
> When you are typing in your post here, look below the text type in box for Attach Files. You will be able to upload 3 files and then 2 more files to AVS, all of which will appear as links in your post. Use Preview Post to see that this is all working before you Submit Reply. Once you've made the post, the chart files are on AVS so you no longer need to keep them on your computer.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17147382
> 
> 
> So Bob, to be sure I undersand. i CAN make two seperate ARC measurments one for movie (screen down) and then do a ARC for Music (screen up)? I dont like any of my music (CD) to have center channel and surrounds are fine with me for music.
> 
> 
> So, when I start ARC (advanced) (not hooked up to D2v or mic) I have the tabs across the top, but a blank screen below. I assume I selcet "measure" and uncheck the box that says under Music "use movie config for music", and also uncheck "center" under music?
> 
> 
> When I then hook up everyting, take the 5 measurments, I then have two uploads, one to save to music and one to movie? Just trying to undersand.
> 
> 
> Also, on a seperate issue I notice that my HDMI cable box sound always says PCM AnthemLogic-Cin and I swear I dont hear any surrounds! I tried a couple of movies on the cbl that I know have surround. What am I missing?



Yes, when you go to Measure tell ARC you want a distinct Music configuration, and set Music to have no Center speaker when asked before the sweep tones begin.


ARC will have you position the mics twice -- first to Measure for Movie, then to Measure for Music. Just raise the screen in between.


There is one Upload that loads everything.


--------------


Check your cable box to be sure it is set to use Bitstream on the HDMI audio output instead of LPCM. LPCM will only give you a stereo down-mix when viewing 5.1 programs. How you set this depends on your cable box. In the Motorola boxes, you power off with the remote and then hit Menu to bring up a special menu.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17147174
> 
> 
> I have an older Sony SXRD HDTV and today I am having delivered a New Panasonic V10 plasma.
> 
> I own an Anthem D2. I want to play Blu-rays in 1080P 24fps. My Sony couldn't do that my new HDTV will be able to.
> 
> I noticed the Video Out put configuration for my Blu-ray in the D2 menu is 1.
> 
> There is also 2, 3, and 4. No mention in the manual what it should be set to to play 1080p 24fps through this input.
> 
> What do I need to set it to to play 1080p 24fps?
> 
> Thanks.



Start by telling your Blu-Ray player to send 1080p/24 to your D2 when playing Blu-Ray movies that are recorded that way. It should have an Automatic 1080p/24 setting that will do this whenever appropriate -- and will still send 1080p/60 to the D2 when not appropriate.


Use your Video Out configuration #1 to begin. Leave that set to 1080p/60 output. Make sure that's working with your new TV and Blu-Ray player when getting 1080p/24 from the player.


Once you know that is working you have two ways to go. First you can set up a separate Video Out configuration (perhaps #2) with 1080p/24 output to your display. You can select that manually with the remote when playing 1080p/24 input or you can set up a Setup > Source Setup definition that also points to your Blu-Ray player but uses Video Out configuration #2 by default instead of #1.


Alternatively, you can use the Frame Lock feature. Again, set up a Video Output configuration with 1080p/24 specified. I recommend you make that a separate configuration (e.g., #2) so that your normal 1080p/60 configuration is still there for use with other sources.


Set the Setup > Source Setup for your Blu-Ray player to use that 1080p/24 Video Out configuration by default. Then play video from the player and press and hold the "7" key until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up on screen. Scroll right to Output and down to Frame Lock and set Frame Lock to Auto. Set this way, this Source will send 1080p/24 to your display when it is receiving appropriate input and will send 1080p/60 to your display when 1080p/24 should not be used. The HDMI handshake will take a little longer when set this way.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17147377
> 
> 
> Would anyone be nice of enough to help with my question on 24fps?



Patience is a virtue!









--Bob


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17147568
> 
> 
> Patience is a virtue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



speaing of patience has Anthem started the trade in program for d2 to d2v2 yet? if so has pricing been finalized?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes, and yes. Unfortunately I didn't write down the prices that were posted here, so you'll have to search unless someone is kind enough to repost them.


The pricing varies according to what you are trading in, and whether you already have an ARC license. It is not cheap, but on the other hand you are getting an entirely new unit with a full new unit warranty.


We've already had our first report of someone getting an RMA number to send back their old unit. I don't think we've had our first post of someone actually receiving a new unit yet via this program. One poster recently did an AVM 30 to AVM 50v trade in, but it sounds like that may have been something the dealer did.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17147545
> 
> 
> Start by telling your Blu-Ray player to send 1080p/24 to your D2 when playing Blu-Ray movies that are recorded that way. It should have an Automatic 1080p/24 setting that will do this whenever appropriate -- and will still send 1080p/60 to the D2 when not appropriate.
> 
> 
> Use your Video Out configuration #1 to begin. Leave that set to 1080p/60 output. Make sure that's working with your new TV and Blu-Ray player when getting 1080p/24 from the player.
> 
> 
> Once you know that is working you have two ways to go. First you can set up a separate Video Out configuration (perhaps #2) with 1080p/24 output to your display. You can select that manually with the remote when playing 1080p/24 input or you can set up a Setup > Source Setup definition that also points to your Blu-Ray player but uses Video Out configuration #2 by default instead of #1.
> 
> 
> Alternatively, you can use the Frame Lock feature. Again, set up a Video Output configuration with 1080p/24 specified. I recommend you make that a separate configuration (e.g., #2) so that your normal 1080p/60 configuration is still there for use with other sources.
> 
> 
> Set the Setup > Source Setup for you Blu-Ray player to use that 1080p/24 Video Out configuration by default. Then play video from the player and press and hold the "7" key until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up on screen. Scroll right to Output and down to Frame Lock and set Frame Lock to Auto. Set this way, this Source will send 1080p/24 to your display when it is receiving appropriate input and will send 1080p/60 to your display when 1080p/24 should not be used. The HDMI handshake will take a little longer when set this way.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I try this out. Tv is set up and delivered. Better Picture than my Sony SXRD already. And it is not even broke in. I'll try this in a just a bit.

Again thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17148124
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I try this out. Tv is set up and delivered. Better Picture than my Sony SXRD already. And it is not even broke in. I'll try this in a just a bit.
> 
> Again thanks.



Keep in mind that you can always use 1080p/60 output to your display even if the input is 1080p/24.


But if you try to convert some video that is NOT 1080p/24 to 1080p/24 output to your display you will get stuttering.


Basically this means you only want to use 1080p/24 output to your display when playing film-based Blu-Ray movies with the Blu-Ray player set to send 1080p/24 to your D2.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17147032
> 
> 
> Well I completed reverting back to V2.07f late last night (no problems).
> 
> 
> WOW, what a difference!
> 
> 
> Something is definitely screwed up in how audio is processed in V2.07g for my 5.1 speaker configuration. Details sent to Anthem.
> 
> 
> Even though it isn't mentioned in the release notes, evidently they changed out the audio decoder package between V2.07f and V2.07g, and the new stuff is broken -- at least when using 5.1 speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Would it be fair to assume that this may not be an issue when using 7.1 speakers?


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's hard for me to tell since I don't have Rear speakers to check with.


However, the most obvious problems don't show if I lie to my D2v and tell it I have 7.1 speakers.


Despite that, I remain suspicious that the TrueHD and DTS-HD MA code may have been broken in other ways when it was updated for V2.07g.


Again, the problems I am talking about here don't exist in V2.07f. Just in V2.07g.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks who are using the Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player, Oppo just released a new "public Beta" firmware today dated 0905. I highly recommend it. Beta firmware can not be installed in the Oppo via the Internet. You will need to go to their Support page to get it, and install it using a USB stick or a disc you burn:

http://www.oppodigital.com/blu-ray-b...3-Support.aspx 


See the Oppo owner's thread in the Blu-Ray Players forum here for discussion.

--Bob


----------



## erikno

Just a thought regarding ARC.


I've used Bobs reccommodations and tried to be very careful on how I locate the speakers. Also I thightend in total 30 screws on each of my 2 loudspeakers (Burmester B50). Having the right position, with the correct ARC, transforms the whole "****" (e.g. the HiFi system) into magic. We talk a lot of all the connectivity problems we have with HDMI on this forum and boy, I have had my share.


But when the valved amp from BAT have been lit for 5 hours, the Watchmen put in the BD player, magic just reveals itself on screen and in to the loudspeakers.


My point, is acoustics. Bob has a veeery important note (at least to me) to make sure that your loudspeakers are properly positioned. We are her talking of not inches, but centimeters.. (haha smaller scale...!) I'm not finished, but it makes the ARC create magic when it has the right conditions to play after.


erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I sense more of these on the way!







































--Bob


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17146826
> 
> 
> You can start with the identical settings.
> 
> 
> If you use Settings Backup utility you can simply transfer you Setup menu settings to the new unit via a PC file.
> 
> 
> If you use Live Video Settings Editor utility you can also transfer your Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file.
> 
> 
> You will need to redo your ARC setup from scratch. Your old results file won't work because the serial number of the new unit will be different. In any event, the audio processing is sufficiently different in the new unit that it would be wise to re-Measure anyway.
> 
> 
> After setting up the new unit, you should revisit your video calibration settings. Odds are you won't need any changes there, but particularly for analog (Component and S-video) inputs, subtle differences in the electronics may require modestly different settings.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob, my problem is I dont have the old unit. Long story.


I kept all your great notes from the last year or so. i think I will be able to get 99% running. I just need to know if I have to adjust anything else with like my dvd player now that this unit does all the new sounds.. pcm?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I suggest you start by using your player just the way you did with the older unit -- LPCM. Once you've got everything working, then you can start experimenting to see if you like Bistream better.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

failed to find microphone calibration files


Is the message I get now.


I uninstalled all the old anthem files. I reinstalled disk that came with unit. when I plug it in it finds avm and mic fine.


When I run program it does not let me hit the three check marks in the start.


measure and so on.


then if I continue without it it shuts off and back on and I get that message.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Reboot after doing the install.


Check in Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction to see what's installed there. You should find the newly installed ARC application and 2 files with numbers for names. Verify that the numbers match the serial number of your new Anthem and the serial number of your new ARC mic.


Make sure you are running the installed version of the app (from that folder), and not any other copy you might have of it. The installer should have put a new Shortcut icon on your desktop to make this easy.


NOTE: This stuff is not yet compatible with Windows 7. You need XP or Vista.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

I cleaned out everything that said anthem on it. Then I even tried running from directory not short cut and same thing.


Numbers do match and when it says found anthem it matches numbers on case of new cd.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Are you trying to use Windows 7?

--Bob


----------



## budeone

No I wish, I am xp pro. It always worked before.


I ran off disk and it seems to be working now. Not sure why it wont install correct but if I can run off disk I guess who cares.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Did you use Windows Add/Remove programs to get rid of the older stuff?


If you just deleted things yourself there may still be some Registry entries in there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Paradigm (parent company of Anthem) has put out a couple press releases detailing speaker announcements at CEDIA in Atlanta this week, but so far nothing specific from Anthem.


It appears Anthem may not be making any new announcements at CEDIA. Of course they've got the D2v and AVM 50v to show as well as their new projectors (made for Anthem by JVC). But in past years, CEDIA has been the place they announced product to be available around the first of the new year.


In particular, I've not spotted anything from Anthem regarding Dolby Volume.


However, Anthem IS mentioned in Dolby's CEDIA press release re Dolby Volume:

http://www.cepro.com/article/dolby_m...nd_visceral/K3 


--Bob


----------



## budeone

Foe some of the people who were asking about going from a avm-50 to a V series.


I hooked mine up and it went as you would think. 1-2-3


I have a problem loading the software for ARC but was able to run it from disk so I will rerun it later doing a better job it was late and I just wanted something better than what I had.


The picture was much brighter, not sure why but it was easy to notice. The HD History channel looked great. Maggie who really does not care about this stuff even said she was surprised it made a difference.


Saturday I will try some movies.


The Anthem was much quicker. The display was much brighter. I actually need to go in and turn it down where I always had turned it all the way up.


The box was fast. It was like going from 486 to Pentium. I don't know what they did in that aspect but it is night and day.


There are new setting I will play with and I think with the tuts on the first page I will be able to figure out most of them.


So far was the money going from regular with arc to V with arc worth it?


50/50


----------



## obie_fl

I keep hoping Anthem will formally announce the trade-in program at CEDIA and decide that we get to keep our old units instead of trading them in.







(What do they do with all those old units anyways?) Since I likely won't be upgrading my D2 with the current trade-in offer what I'd really like to hear is a whisper or two about a successor unit. D3? I realize a successor may be a year or two off but it would be nice to know Anthem is working on it.


----------



## Texas steve

Flat, loss of bass on FM? Hopefully some one can help me. I have not yet run ARC. The other day I was pushing buttons on the front panel while listening to the tuner, and when I pushed one button immediately the sound went flat. I have not yet figured out which button or how to get the sound back to normal. Any ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17152815
> 
> 
> Flat, loss of bass on FM? Hopefully some one can help me. I have not yet run ARC. The other day I was pushing buttons on the front panel while listening to the tuner, and when I pushed one button immediately the sound went flat. I have not yet figured out which button or how to get the sound back to normal. Any ideas?



You probably changed the audio surround mode to Mono or or some such.


Change to the Tuner source and press Mode on the remote to see the current setting and use Up/Down arrow to change.


Then press Select repeatedly to cycle through the info displays and double check that everything looks correct -- in particular that Dynamics is "normal".


Another possibility is that you accidentally engaged one of the Temporary level adjustment settings, although that usually happens using the remote and not the front panel. For example you might have accidentally lowered Bass (of Bass/Treble) or the Subwoofer output or turned on Dynamics. These settings are applied on top of whatever you have set in Setup.


To clear ALL the Temporary adjustments for all sources simultaneously, in Setup > Save & Restore Settings:


1) Save User Settings.

2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video continue using the Front Panel.

3) Reload Saved User Settings


Since the Temporary settings are not saved, this clears all of them.

--Bob


----------



## peechus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17146972
> 
> 
> I'm glad things are starting work out!
> 
> 
> The bass response in your Side surrounds (red Measured curve) is poor enough that they may simply be installed incorrectly. Some speakers have separate input jacks for bass and for mid-range/treble. Usually folks wire the two sets of jacks by cross connecting them with buss bars at the speaker (rather than running two sets of speaker wire to the speaker). Check your speakers to see if bass is not hooked up. In addition, some speakers have configuration options for bass. For example you may have a bass port you need to open to get the bass out.
> 
> 
> NOTE: You need to manually set that your Side Surround speakers are Dipole in Setup > Speaker Configuration. However, this only alters how the speaker distance settings are applied so even if you have this wrong at the moment, that won't change what ARC is Measuring or the solution it calculates. It won't fix the bass problem for example.
> 
> 
> Also, play some stereo content which includes bass using Stereo ALL audio mode, then go put your ear close to the bass driver in each speaker in turn and make sure the bass drivers in your Side surrounds are actually functioning. I don't really think you have a failed driver since both Side speakers Measure identically in bass, but it is worth checking.
> 
> 
> There was a point some years back where speaker makers deliberately made surround speakers that were weak in both bass and treble since surround channels didn't use those that much (back then). So the poor bass in your Side surrounds may just be the way they are designed to work. In which case your recourse would be to replace them. A 130Hz crossover is pretty high, so I think it would be wise to deal with this, even though ARC is already filling in bass for those using your subwoofer.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, the surround speakers are set up as dipoles. I spoke with Piero about cloudy bass and he opined that surround speakers aren't called on for much bass. As these are locked and loaded with a single input,I was inquiring about a replacement with deeper bass. If the woofers are contributing to the thickness of the low end by helping out the surrounds, maybe I should run them out of phase to lower the output.Perhaps I misunderstood but I think he said I could lower the woofer cutoff in the setup menu but I thought that was a no no. Comments please, Peechus.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/17154016
> 
> 
> Bob, the surround speakers are set up as dipoles. I spoke with Piero about cloudy bass and he opined that surround speakers aren't called on for much bass. As these are locked and loaded with a single input,I was inquiring about a replacement with deeper bass. If the woofers are contributing to the thickness of the low end by helping out the surrounds, maybe I should run them out of phase to lower the output.Perhaps I misunderstood but I think he said I could lower the woofer cutoff in the setup menu but I thought that was a no no. Comments please, Peechus.



No your sub should be set up in proper phase with LF.


I would not suggest you fiddle with the cutoff/crossover settings yet.


Because the crossover is so high in the surrounds, you may get some low frequency content steered to the sub from them that is high enough in frequency to be localizable, so yes a pair of surrounds capable of going at least below 100Hz would be good.


If you have THX post-processing turned on, I recommend you turn it off when using ARC. While playing a source, press the THX button to check.


Double check that your Subwoofer setting in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie/Music is "1 Sub" and not "2 Subs" or 1 or 2 "Super" subs. You must use "1 Sub" with ARC. If you have to correct this, re-Measure for ARC.


I should also confirm that you have a traditional speaker arrangement with a subwoofer directly connected to the Anthem and NOT connected to a main speaker. Similarly, your main speakers are connected directly to the Anthem and not through the sub. Correct?


If you have "combo speakers" where the subs and mains are wired directly too each other (or even in the same chassis) then you need to do things differently with ARC.


How many subwoofers do you have?


By the way, you should repost your latest charts and Targets window so we can see what you've got now.

--Bob


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Ummmm I couldn't wait any longer! I've been in contact with Anthem and I'm in the process of upgrading to the D2v!










I'll post all the details once I get everything. (how much, how long ect ect)


I'm curious though... what Version are you guys going with? What's more popular? The Rack-Mount or the 17-1/4 inch Version.


Me, I'm a 17-1/4 inch kind of guy!










So excited...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I actually prefer the standard unit with the wings (curved side handle extensions) on the front plate. For example, I leave my RS-232 cable permanently connected in back and folded up on the left side of the unit (the side away from the power supply), and the front panel wing on that side hides it quite neatly. Of course mine is sitting on a shelf so I don't have rack mounting to worry about. Just be sure your shelf opening is wide enough to accommodate the extra width of the wings.


By the way, what on earth took you so long?









--Bob


----------



## peechus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /forum/post/17154169
> 
> 
> No your sub should be set up in proper phase with LF.
> 
> 
> I would not suggest you fiddle with the cutoff/crossover settings yet.
> 
> 
> Because the crossover is so high in the surrounds, you may get some low frequency content steered to the sub from them that is high enough in frequency to be localizable, so yes a pair of surrounds capable of going at least below 100Hz would be good.
> 
> 
> If you have THX post-processing turned on, I recommend you turn it off when using ARC. While playing a source, press the THX button to check.
> 
> 
> Double check that your Subwoofer setting in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie/Music is "1 Sub" and not "2 Subs" or 1 or 2 "Super" subs. You must use "1 Sub" with ARC. If you have to correct this, re-Measure for ARC.
> 
> 
> I should also confirm that you have a traditional speaker arrangement with a subwoofer directly connected to the Anthem and NOT connected to a main speaker. Similarly, your main speakers are connected directly to the Anthem and not through the sub. Correct?
> 
> 
> If you have "combo speakers" where the subs and mains are wired directly too each other (or even in the same chassis) then you need to do things differently with ARC.
> 
> 
> How many subwoofers do you have?
> 
> 
> By the way, you should repost your latest charts and Targets window so we can see what you've got now.
> 
> --Bob



Bob. included are the latest charts.Two subs are used with setup listed as one and no THX processing.Traditional hookup with dedicated lines to each speaker.LF,C and RF are biamped with 300hz crossovers. thanks, Peechus


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/17154683
> 
> 
> Bob. included are the latest charts.Two subs are used with setup listed as one and no THX processing.Traditional hookup with dedicated lines to each speaker.LF,C and RF are biamped with 300hz crossovers. thanks, Peechus



I'm still not seeing anything new in your charts.


Since you have 2 subs, one thing you need to know is that you must set Polarity and Phase for the two of them BEFORE you Measure for ARC since ARC hears them at the same time. And then you can't change the Polarity/Phase settings for either sub afterwards without re-Measuring.


Note that you will need to use controls in each sub to set Polarity/Phase since the two sub outputs from the Anthem send out the identical signal -- no separate Phase control in the Anthem.


The trick is to adjust each sub separately for Polarity/Phase -- power off the other one. Once each sub is in proper Phase with LF then, when both are powered on, they will automatically be in Phase with each other as well.


When setting the volume knobs on the two subs, use the procedure described before in Setup > Level Calibration -- setting Test Level first and then setting the volume knob in each sub while leaving the sub trim value at 0dB in the Anthem.


The trick again is to do one sub at a time -- power off the other. If you are targeting 75dB for Test Level, then adjust each sub alone to produce 72dB. When used together that will give you 75dB from the pair of them (or close enough -- there are room related details that can be ignored). This makes sure the 2 subs are balanced in volume against each other.


It is possible that the dip in your Measured sub response between 40Hz and 100Hz is due to the 2 subs not being in proper Phase with each other.


-------------------------------------------


ARC is doing a significant amount of correction in your room, but I don't think anything in the charts shows beyond what it should handle.


One thing you might try as an experiment is to do a pass where you tell ARC you ONLY have LF/RC/C/Sub. That will eliminate the side and rear surrounds from the solution. If you still hear bass problems then you know they can't be the result of your surrounds.


I suggest you try listening in Stereo mode -- which will produce output to LF/RF/Sub only -- after such a setup to simplify things as much as possible.


-------------------------------------------


We should concentrate on getting your bass issue fixed first, but I'll also point out that your speakers need help above 10KHz. You should try raising Max EQ Frequency Target value up to 20KHz and check that telling ARC to help up there doesn't reduce the quality of the Calculated results curve at lower frequencies.


The Measured drop at high frequencies looks typical of speaker pointing problems -- except for your Side surrounds which just look like they are not capable of going that high. If your speakers aren't mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing. For LF/RF don't point them at the center seating position. The rule of thumb that seems to work best is to swing them around only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular to the screen towards the center seating position.


-----------------------------------------------


And in the category of stating the obvious, I want to make sure you are aware that ARC processing does not happen if you use analog audio input in ANALOG-DIRECT mode. You must use ANALOG-DSP for stereo or multi-channel analog inputs since ARC processing happens in the digital domain.


ETA: One last thing. If either sub is positioned within 5 feet of your seating you may have special issues that need to be addressed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Another thought: If you take my advice to do a 3.1 setup in ARC as an experiment (no Side or Rear surrounds), you can do that in just Music configuration leaving Movie just the way you have it now.


Then you can set up two Sources to the same input device -- one using Movie and one using Music. Listen to stereo content in Stereo audio mode from both and you can A/B between them. That will tell you what if any detrimental effect the surround speakers are having on the solution for fronts and sub.


You can do the same with 5.1 content to check the impact on LFE, but you'll have to be careful to concentrate on the bass since of course the steered surround content will sound different in the 3.1 configuration vs. your 7.1 configuration.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Bob I completed my 5 test point ARC for Music and Movie. Your input is greatly appreciated. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17155345
> 
> 
> Bob I completed my 5 test point ARC for Music and Movie. Your input is greatly appreciated. Thanks



Not bad for a first try.


It looks look you mistakenly left the internal crossover turned on inside your sub. Disable that (usually a switch but sometimes a separate input jack) or if you can't disable it then crank it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. ARC and the Anthem take care of crossover processing so you don't want the sub trying to do it as well.


Otherwise your sub looks good for subsonics.


All of your main speakers need help in the highest frequencies. What the Measured curves are showing could be the result of speaker pointing issues. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing.


ARC can help quite a bit up there. Just raise the Max EQ Frequency value in the Targets window (for Movie and Music). ARC will provide about 6dB of boost up there, which is not quite enough for complete correction. But if you can get a modest improvement by speaker pointing, ARC will take care of the rest.


Try pushing Max EQ Frequency all the way up to 20KHz to start. Accept that and re-Calculate and if the Calculated curves don't show more wobbles at lower frequencies then you can just leave it all the way up there.


Your LF/RF look perfectly capable in your no-Sub Music configuration. Your pair of Side surrounds is good down to about 40Hz, which should be fine in that configuration as well.


In Music, your Side surrounds should NOT be set to Full range. Let ARC steer the lower bass to your highly capable LF/RF pair.


It looks like ARC found around 4dB of Room Gain in your Music setup and virtually none in your Movie setup which is a bit unusual.


Next time you post, capture your Targets window as well and post that too.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob,

I have couple of questions.


1. How can I trun off THX? I know how to turn off THX-equalization.

2. What shall I select for play DD 5.1 and DTS 5.1? Shall I select "None" or PLII Movie?


----------



## WildZero

Update number two to my AC3 -> Demodulator -> D2v problem.

Tried what barhoram suggested and it works!!!










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/17125954
> 
> 
> I had this exact same problem... Hooking it up to the AES/EBU connection (XLR type connection to my D2) did the trick.



Thank you!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17155667
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> I have couple of questions.
> 
> 
> 1. How can I trun off THX? I know how to turn off THX-equalization.
> 
> 2. What shall I select for play DD 5.1 and DTS 5.1? Shall I select "None" or PLII Movie?



You can manually turn off THX while viewing any Source by pressing the THX button and toggling the setting with the Up/Down arrows. Press THX twice to view/change whether THX Equalization is on. My recommendation is that you leave both off when using ARC. NOTE: Some rare movies will need THX Equalization even if the rest of THX is off.


To avoid having to keep checking this, go into Setup > Mode Presets for each Source and make sure your default surround processing mode for each type of audio input for each Source is set to not include THX post-processing.


----------------------------------------


If you have 7.1 speakers, PLIIx-Movie will create sound for your Rear speakers when fed 5.1 content. Usually that works well, but if you don't like the result just switch back to None and your Rear speakers will be silent except when you are playing 7.1 input content.


If you have only 5.1 speakers, PLIIx-Movie will just revert to None since there's no work for it to do when playing 5.1 content. When playing 2.0 content it will kick in and produce output to Center and LS/RS.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17155717
> 
> 
> You can manually turn off THX while viewing any Source by pressing the THX button and toggling the setting with the Up/Down arrows. Press THX twice to view/change whether THX Equalization is on. My recommendation is that you leave both off when using ARC. NOTE: Some rare movies will need THX Equalization even if the rest of THX is off.
> 
> 
> To avoid having to keep checking this, go into Setup > Mode Presets for each Source and make sure your default surround processing mode for each type of audio input for each Source is set to not include THX post-processing.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you have 7.1 speakers, PLIIx-Movie will create sound for your Rear speakers when fed 5.1 content. Usually that works well, but if you don't like the result just switch back to None and your Rear speakers will be silent except when you are playing 7.1 input content.
> 
> 
> If you have only 5.1 speakers, PLIIx-Movie will just revert to None since there's no work for it to do when playing 5.1 content. When playing 2.0 content it will kick in and produce output to Center and LS/RS.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I appreciate it.


----------



## Texas steve

Ill check the crossover in the sub. To make the adjustments you spoke of do I need to remeasure or do it in ARC program? I see where int he "Target Customization" tab at the bottom I can raise max eq to 20K should I do this on both? then "calculate" then upload?


Regarding the surrounds you are correct I have them set for large in music I guess I change that in the processor. Do I then need to rerun ARC? or just upload?


thanks again Bob your wisdom is greatly appreciated



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17155532
> 
> 
> Not bad for a first try.
> 
> 
> It looks look you mistakenly left the internal crossover turned on inside your sub. Disable that (usually a switch but sometimes a separate input jack) or if you can't disable it then crank it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. ARC and the Anthem take care of crossover processing so you don't want the sub trying to do it as well.
> 
> 
> Otherwise your sub looks good for subsonics.
> 
> 
> All of your main speakers need help in the highest frequencies. What the Measured curves are showing could be the result of speaker pointing issues. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing.
> 
> 
> ARC can help quite a bit up there. Just raise the Max EQ Frequency value in the Targets window (for Movie and Music). ARC will provide about 6dB of boost up there, which is not quite enough for complete correction. But if you can get a modest improvement by speaker pointing, ARC will take care of the rest.
> 
> 
> Try pushing Max EQ Frequency all the way up to 20KHz to start. Accept that and re-Calculate and if the Calculated curves don't show more wobbles at lower frequencies then you can just leave it all the way up there.
> 
> 
> Your LF/RF look perfectly capable in your no-Sub Music configuration. Your pair of Side surrounds is good down to about 40Hz, which should be fine in that configuration as well.
> 
> 
> In Music, your Side surrounds should NOT be set to Full range. Let ARC steer the lower bass to your highly capable LF/RF pair.
> 
> 
> It looks like ARC found around 4dB of Room Gain in your Music setup and virtually none in your Movie setup which is a bit unusual.
> 
> 
> Next time you post, capture your Targets window as well and post that too.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17155842
> 
> 
> Ill check the crossover in the sub. To make the adjustments you spoke of do I need to remeasure or do it in ARC program? I see where int he "Target Customization" tab at the bottom I can raise max eq to 20K should I do this on both? then "calculate" then upload?
> 
> 
> Regarding the surrounds you are correct I have them set for large in music I guess I change that in the processor. Do I then need to rerun ARC? or just upload?
> 
> 
> thanks again Bob your wisdom is greatly appreciated



You can experiment with different Max EQ Frequency values in ARC without having to re-Measure. Just re-Calculate and if you like the resulting curves re-do the Upload.


You set the Music surround speakers to small when you tell ARC your Music configuration prior to Measurement. Just leave the Full Range box unchecked for them.


[Since you have no Sub for Music, the Full Range box will automatically be checked for LF/RF and you can't (and shouldn't) change that.]


Having done a Measurement, you can also do it in the Targets window. Uncheck the Full Range box for the Sides and do an Auto Detect so that ARC will reset the cutoff/crossover value for them. You will need to re-enter your Max EQ Frequency value. Then re-Calculate and re-Upload.


In general, when using ARC you do NOT want to fiddle with any of the settings that ARC Uploads into the Setup menu: Speaker configuration, crossovers, and speaker volume trim values. Make changes in the ARC application, re-Calculate and re-Upload.


When you fix the crossover setting in your Sub, or when you do any speaker re-pointing, you will need to re-Measure.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/17155691
> 
> 
> Update number two to my AC3 -> Demodulator -> D2v problem.
> 
> Tried what barhoram suggested and it works!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!



Do I get warm Moist Chocolate Chip Cookies for having the 1st Fix


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17147858
> 
> 
> speaing of patience has Anthem started the trade in program for d2 to d2v2 yet? if so has pricing been finalized?



Last week when I spoke with Peiro, the price for the trade in program is,









4100.00 and your D2 with ARC for a D2 1/2 or D2.V 4400.00 without ARC.

I will wait for the D3


----------



## Texas steve

will do. by the way perhaps the clock chimed (1PM) near the end of one of the music measurements, perhaps thats the thing you saw. I thought I did good, unplugged the phone, turned off the cell phone, moved the dogs, kicked the wife out, but I FORGOT about the clock!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17155909
> 
> 
> You can experiment with different Max EQ Frequency values in ARC without having to re-Measure. Just re-Calculate and if you like the resulting curves re-do the Upload.
> 
> 
> You set the Music surround speakers to small when you tell ARC your Music configuration prior to Measurement. Just leave the Full Range box unchecked for them.
> 
> 
> [Since you have no Sub for Music, the Full Range box will automatically be checked for LF/RF and you can't (and shouldn't) change that.]
> 
> 
> Having done a Measurement, you can also do it in the Targets window. Uncheck the Full Range box for the Sides and do an Auto Detect so that ARC will reset the cutoff/crossover value for them. You will need to re-enter your Max EQ Frequency value. Then re-Calculate and re-Upload.
> 
> 
> In general, when using ARC you do NOT want to fiddle with any of the settings that ARC Uploads into the Setup menu: Speaker configuration, crossovers, and speaker volume trim values. Make changes in the ARC application, re-Calculate and re-Upload.
> 
> 
> When you fix the crossover setting in your Sub, or when you do any speaker re-pointing, you will need to re-Measure.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Texas steve

I checked my sub (Muse 18) and there are three controls Damping, delay and level. according to the manual


Damping: "the low freq cutoff is adjustd by the damping contorl varying the -3dBpoint between 18 and 25HZ" .

Delay: "is essential in obtaining proper transition form the subwolfer to your loudspeakers. ths iwll effenct the reagion near the corosover point and misadjusments will result in a decreased output in this reagion"


The Muse uses "Personality cards" that plug in for different speakers the one I have pluged in is and I have no idea what the default is for this card. I can take it out and the default is 50HZ. What would you sugest?


Here is the info on my fronts, they are made by Salk
*Veracity HT3*
*Design* Full-range, floor-standingWMT 3-way *Drivers* (1) G2 pure ribbon tweeter, (1) Seas Excel W18 EX midrange and (1) Custom aluminum-coned, low-distortion 10" subwoofer with 21mm XMAX
*Response* 34Hz - 25KHz (+/- 1.5 db)

29Hz - 40KHz (+/-3db)

(F10 23Hz)



By the way what does "auto scale" do in ARC program?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17155909
> 
> 
> You can experiment with different Max EQ Frequency values in ARC without having to re-Measure. Just re-Calculate and if you like the resulting curves re-do the Upload.
> 
> 
> You set the Music surround speakers to small when you tell ARC your Music configuration prior to Measurement. Just leave the Full Range box unchecked for them.
> 
> 
> [Since you have no Sub for Music, the Full Range box will automatically be checked for LF/RF and you can't (and shouldn't) change that.]
> 
> 
> Having done a Measurement, you can also do it in the Targets window. Uncheck the Full Range box for the Sides and do an Auto Detect so that ARC will reset the cutoff/crossover value for them. You will need to re-enter your Max EQ Frequency value. Then re-Calculate and re-Upload.
> 
> 
> In general, when using ARC you do NOT want to fiddle with any of the settings that ARC Uploads into the Setup menu: Speaker configuration, crossovers, and speaker volume trim values. Make changes in the ARC application, re-Calculate and re-Upload.
> 
> 
> When you fix the crossover setting in your Sub, or when you do any speaker re-pointing, you will need to re-Measure.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17156237
> 
> 
> I checked my sub (Muse 18) and there are three controls Damping, delay and level. according to the manual
> 
> 
> Damping: "the low freq cutoff is adjustd by the damping contorl varying the -3dBpoint between 18 and 25HZ" .
> 
> Delay: "is essential in obtaining proper transition form the subwolfer to your loudspeakers. ths iwll effenct the reagion near the corosover point and misadjusments will result in a decreased output in this reagion"
> 
> 
> The Muse uses "Personality cards" that plug in for different speakers the one I have pluged in is and I have no idea what the default is for this card. I can take it out and the default is 50HZ. What would you sugest?
> 
> 
> Here is the info on my fronts, they are made by Salk
> *Veracity HT3*
> *Design* Full-range, floor-standingWMT 3-way *Drivers* (1) G2 pure ribbon tweeter, (1) Seas Excel W18 EX midrange and (1) Custom aluminum-coned, low-distortion 10" subwoofer with 21mm XMAX
> *Response* 34Hz - 25KHz (+/- 1.5 db)
> 
> 29Hz - 40KHz (+/-3db)
> 
> (F10 23Hz)
> 
> 
> 
> By the way what does "auto scale" do in ARC program?



Well that Sub is going to give you problems if you can't get around its settings like that 50Hz crossover built into the personality card.


You don't want any "delay" in the sub. The distance settings and the Phase/Polarity adjustments you make in the Anthem take care of that. It sounds to me like they've included it in lieu of a Phase setting in the sub.


The damping appears to be a subsonic filter. You seem to be in pretty good shape with that right now (no roll-off at the lowest frequencies) so that's probably all right. But you really do need to find a way to bypass that 50Hz crossover. Just compare what's happening with the red Measured curve for the sub above 50Hz vs. the dashed Target curve ARC is trying to hit. The crossover in that personality card is what's causing the problem.


---------------------------------


You probably haven't played with the ARC charts enough to realize you can adjust them for scale and such by clicking and dragging. The Auto-Scale button simply undoes any such changes you have made in how they are displayed. It doesn't have any effect on the actual data or what gets Uploaded.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/17155919
> 
> 
> Last week when I spoke with Peiro, the price for the trade in program is,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4100.00 and your D2 with ARC for a D2 1/2 or D2.V 4400.00 without ARC.
> 
> I will wait for the D3



This just keeps getting better didn't it used to be $3900 and $4300? At those prices the only way it would make sense to me is if you got to keep your old one. The D2v definitely has some features I'd like but it is not a $4100 step up from a D2. I'll be waiting on the D3 too.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Those are probably prices in Canadian dollars.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17156623
> 
> 
> Those are probably prices in Canadian dollars.
> 
> --Bob



The way things are going our Cdn dollar will soon be worth more than a US dollar.


----------



## peechus

Bob, following Texas steve's set up issues I am aware I failed to check or uncheck the full range box' s in the targets window. I gather I need to remeasure with the correction. How might this alter the adjustments, particularly the surrounds? Peechus


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/17158133
> 
> 
> Bob, following Texas steve's set up issues I am aware I failed to check or uncheck the full range box' s in the targets window. I gather I need to remeasure with the correction. How might this alter the adjustments, particularly the surrounds? Peechus



If you have specified a subwoofer, all the main speakers will have the Full Range box cleared by default. ARC defaults to using the subwoofer as you main source of bass. So there's nothing special you have to do.


And indeed the Full Range box is unchecked for all speakers in the latest Targets window you posted, so there's no error there.

--Bob


----------



## fuzzybk

Heard back from Anthem regarding Canadian pricing on upgrading/trading in an AVM 30 to AVM 50v. I hope your all sitting down......cost is $4999.


Ouch.


----------



## brusteraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17147858
> 
> 
> speaing of patience has Anthem started the trade in program for d2 to d2v2 yet? if so has pricing been finalized?



3899.00 if you already have Arc, 4299.00 if you don't.That's in US Dollars


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17158258
> 
> 
> Heard back from Anthem regarding Canadian pricing on upgrading/trading in an AVM 30 to AVM 50v. I hope your all sitting down......cost is $4999.
> 
> 
> Ouch.



Yikes. When I bought the video board upgrade for my D1 I asked them if I could pay in US dollars (because of the exchange it was 3-4 hundred dollars cheaper that way) and they didn't have a problem with that...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17156359
> 
> 
> it is not a $4100 step up from a D2. I'll be waiting on the D3 too.



I'm with you Obie - I love my D2!


Everyone who has upgraded say it is Better - but the Cost of Improvement is the deal breaker.


----------



## highanddry

But what is the cost of not knowing?










Someone has to throw this economy on his shoulders and carry it along.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *highanddry* /forum/post/17159748
> 
> 
> But what is the cost of not knowing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone has to throw this economy on his shoulders and carry it along.



The Economy has CRUSHED ME.


I need a JOB - want to Hire me


----------



## Texas steve

OK Bob, Im confused. Im going to redo the ARC measurments today, with Music - no sub, no center and changing the surrounds to small. Where Im confused is do I or do I not place a check in the Full Range box for music?










by the way i changed my toein on my mains and tried some adjustment on the Sub. The manafacture of the mains (Salk) said the crossover is 29HZ and he suggesed I set the sub at a crossover of 35hz (of course I cant seem to do that with this sub). So I had a quesion.


I have a cd with tones, What frequency should I generate to the sub? and given that frequency could I adjust the "damping" and set it to the loudest point at that "tone"? Would that be correct?


thanks again Bob

steve



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17158195
> 
> 
> If you have specified a subwoofer, all the main speakers will have the Full Range box cleared by default. ARC defaults to using the subwoofer as you main source of bass. So there's nothing special you have to do.
> 
> 
> And indeed the Full Range box is unchecked for all speakers in the latest Targets window you posted, so there's no error there.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17159946
> 
> 
> OK Bob, Im confused. Im going to redo the ARC measurments today, with Music - no sub, no center and changing the surrounds to small. Where Im confused is do I or do I not place a check in the Full Range box for music?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by the way i changed my toein on my mains and tried some adjustment on the Sub. The manafacture of the mains (Salk) said the crossover is 29HZ and he suggesed I set the sub at a crossover of 35hz (of course I cant seem to do that with this sub). So I had a quesion.
> 
> 
> I have a cd with tones, What frequency should I generate to the sub? and given that frequency could I adjust the "damping" and set it to the loudest point at that "tone"? Would that be correct?
> 
> 
> thanks again Bob
> 
> steve



There's a separate Full Range check box for each pair of speakers for each of Movie and Music.


When you run ARC set the Music configuration to no Subwoofer and the Full Range box will automatically be checked for LF/RF for Music (you can't and shouldn't change that -- it's required if you have no Sub). Specify you have no Center or Rears for Music. Leave the other Full Range boxes cleared.


Set this way ARC will treat LF/RF as "large" and other speakers as "small". Actually it will Upload "advanced" to the Setup > Speaker Configuration menu since it uses different crossover values for different speaker pairs.


-----------------------------------------------


Whoever you talked to at the Sub company is confusing crossover (the 50Hz setting in the personality card which keeps higher frequencies from being played in the sub) with a subsonic filter which is apparently adjusted by their "damping" control. A subsonic filter prevents LOWER frequencies from playing through the sub to keep the sub from bottoming out or producing distortion. Typically you would use it if you have Boundary Gain reflections off a nearby wall or corner. Based on your last set of charts I don't believe there's anything you need to change for "damping" -- i.e., for adjustment of its subsonic filter. The lowest frequencies from your sub are fine.


The typical range for subsonic filters is 5Hz to 30Hz (which matches how they describe their "damping" control). The typical range for crossovers is 40Hz to 120Hz. Or disabled.


It's that 50Hz crossover in the personality card that's your problem. You need to get rid of that so that the Sub can produce frequencies closer to 100Hz.


Just look at how your red Measured curve for the Sub is rolling off dramatically above 50Hz. That's what you need to fix. You may need to change out that personality card with one that applies no crossover.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17159762
> 
> 
> The Economy has CRUSHED ME.
> 
> 
> I need a JOB - want to Hire me



Me too....

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Cant I adjust this with the ARC program?









The manafacture does not exisist anymore so Im stuck with what I got on the sub.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17160076
> 
> 
> There's a separate Full Range check box It's that 50Hz crossover in the personality card that's your problem. You need to get rid of that so that the Sub can produce frequencies closer to 100Hz.
> 
> 
> Just look at how your red Measured curve for the Sub is rolling off dramatically above 50Hz. That's what you need to fix. You may need to change out that personality card with one that applies no crossover.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17160132
> 
> 
> Cant I adjust this with the ARC program?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The manafacture does not exisist anymore so Im stuck with what I got on the sub.



No. If you look at the green Calculated curve and compare it to the black dashed Target curve for the Sub you will see that ARC is already trying to correct it, but applying bass boost to try to get past a filter is a losing proposition. ARC can't undo that filter anymore than it could produce bass from the Sub if the Sub was powered off.


You may have to replace the Sub.


Since your LF/RF are so good for bass, an alternative would be to leave the Sub out of your Movie configuration as well until you can replace it. ARC will steer bass (including LFE content) to LF/RF.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Oh my Wife would LOVE that!!!! You must not be married! She already s%$# at my new processor!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17160262
> 
> 
> No.
> 
> You may have to replace the Sub.
> 
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Significant-other Acceptance Factor should not be ignored.


Better SAF than sorry, I always say....

--Bob


----------



## aramb

Bob, would you please take a look at my ARC values and let me know your opinions...


Thanks,


AramB

ARC Page1.jpg 
ARC Page2.jpg 
ARC Targets.jpg


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17160312
> 
> 
> Bob, would you please take a look at my ARC values and let me know your opinions...
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> AramB
> 
> ARC Page1.jpg
> ARC Page2.jpg
> ARC Targets.jpg



First of all, you can upload these JPEG image files to AVS using the Attach Files box below the text type in box when you make up a post. They'll show in your post as links, just as you have done here, but the files are hosted on AVS and you don't have to host them on your server as you have done.


You can upload 3 files, and then it will give you the chance to upload 2 more, which is convenient since Movie plus Music plus Targets makes for 5 image files.


----------------------------------


You should raise Max EQ Frequency target value in the Targets window. That will tell ARC it is OK to apply correction above the default 5KHz. I think you'll be able to push that all the way up to 20KHz without problems showing up in lower frequencies, but check the curves and see.


The Measured response from your Sub looks odd, but ARC seems to have tamed that. Right now your Sub is good down to about 25Hz. Double check your Sub's internal settings to make sure you don't have a subsonic filter turned on or a crossover. If you are using more than one Sub, make sure they are in proper phase with each other. If you have combo front speakers with satellite subs, that may be part of the problem.


Your big problem is your Side surrounds. They are weak both in bass and treble. For bass, check their configuration. See if there's a bass port you can open or some such. For treble, check how they are pointed, paying particular attention to their vertical pointing.

--Bob


----------



## highanddry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17160094
> 
> 
> Me too....
> 
> --Bob



Bob, you already have a full-time job (and then some, based on the time stamps on your posts). The problem is not your job, but the wage with which we users reward you.


Just keeping up with this thread is a part-time job for me.


I'm not in HR, but it seems to me that neither you nor drhankz would have to knock on too many doors before you found meaningful employment, if you so chose. Obviously neither of you has resorted to puffing an harmonica and busking for spare change yet. The place where I work is hiring, but you might not like our winters; it seems the last one never really ended and another is already on its way.


Back to D2v stuff, I'm formally requesting a couple more owner-glee bed-jumping icons. I am not yet fully tuned, but I like what I see and hear so far. Between the D2v, the P2 and the P5, my rack (almost) runneth over.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ah! That must be why these guys were banging on the door trying to get out!







































--Bob


----------



## Carlton Bale

Just got a quote from Anthem on my D2 repair. $1300 to replace the power supply and video board. So now I'm weighing my options: repair it and get my D2 back in about a week or pay for a full D2V upgrade and wait 4 weeks.


I'm thinking about the full upgrade option, since I've had continual problems with my D2. Having a full warranty and a new unit is attractive, but $3900 is still a lot to spend. Thoughts?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17160094
> 
> 
> Me too....
> 
> --Bob




We all know whose payroll you should be on even if they pay in Canadian dollars


----------



## dmusoke

OT here a bit....










Carlton, I find your HT calculator extremely informative and very invaluable. Thanks!










Now back to the news in hidef









David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem has just announced a Blu-Ray player, the BLX200. MSRP $800.


I presume it is rebadged, like their projectors, but I'm not sure who from yet.

http://blog.hometheatermag.com/cedia...nthem_blu-ray/ 

http://www.cedia.net/pdf/expo_media_kit.pdf 


I haven't spotted an actual press release yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/17161459
> 
> 
> Just got a quote from Anthem on my D2 repair. $1300 to replace the power supply and video board. So now I'm weighing my options: repair it and get my D2 back in about a week or pay for a full D2V upgrade and wait 4 weeks.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about the full upgrade option, since I've had continual problems with my D2. Having a full warranty and a new unit is attractive, but $3900 is still a lot to spend. Thoughts?



I'd be leaning towards yes. If Anthem will take a broken D2 back in as trade-in for a new D2v? Ya sure, you betcha. Actually I'm surprised the repair cost is so low if it includes a replacement video board. That's the most expensive replaceable item in the D2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *highanddry* /forum/post/17161142
> 
> 
> The problem is not your job, but the wage with which we users reward you.



I'm reminded of the old saying:


"We are a non-profit operation. Of course we didn't plan it that way...."










--Bob


----------



## highanddry

In case this is of interest to anyone here who finds themselves wondering what I did...


I bought my D2v after having previously purchased the JCV DLA-HD750 projector (= RS20, other than trim). At the time of purchasing the D2v, I noted that Anthem had rebadged the HD750 as their "LTX 500". I was a bit surprised by this.


The two use different, but high quality video processors (the D2V uses a Sigma Design chip), whereas the HD750 uses a Silicon Optix chip). I wondered why Anthem would rebadge a product knowing that its processing chip is provided from a different manufacturer, so I asked Nick at Anthem.


As you might have guessed, Nick's response was the the video processing chip within the D2v is superior for de-interlacing/scaling so that work should remain with the D2v. The projector, upon seeing 1080p, will have its processing in this regard overridden. No worries about additional, unecessary processing. Colour management, as you also would have guessed, belongs at the projector.


Nick's closing quote: "So... calibrate the projector with its own controls (the way it should always be done), let the D2v do the deinterlacing and scaling, and since the D2v memorizes settings for each input, there's no better place to do aspect ratio control and per-source tweaking for sources that need it."


Hope that helps anyone with this combo.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^^ Wise words. Often people try to put too many eggs in one basket rather than thinking through the logical place to do each piece of the processing.


Even if you pay for "world's best" technology in two different devices, it doesn't necessarily mean that you can blithely push all the processing into one of them or into the other.


On the other hand, getting top notch processing for a piece of the puzzle in any given device often means you have to pay for other stuff in that device you don't actually intend to use. This is just the nature of electronics product marketing. You can't make them without a complete solution built-in because not everyone will have high-end products on either side of them.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *highanddry* /forum/post/17161912
> 
> 
> 
> Nick's closing quote: "So... calibrate the projector with its own controls (the way it should always be done), let the D2v do the deinterlacing and scaling, and since the D2v memorizes settings for each input, there's no better place to do aspect ratio control and per-source tweaking for sources that need it."


*Nick's Answer is 100% Accurate,* as you might expect










Some things are better done in the D2 and Some in the PJ.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *highanddry* /forum/post/17161912
> 
> 
> In case this is of interest to anyone here who finds themselves wondering what I did...
> 
> 
> I bought my D2v after having previously purchased the JCV DLA-HD750 projector (= RS20, other than trim). At the time of purchasing the D2v, I noted that Anthem had rebadged the HD750 as their "LTX 500". I was a bit surprised by this.
> 
> 
> The two use different, but high quality video processors (the D2V uses a Sigma Design chip), whereas the HD750 uses a Silicon Optix chip). I wondered why Anthem would rebadge a product knowing that its processing chip is provided from a different manufacturer, so I asked Nick at Anthem.
> 
> 
> As you might have guessed, Nick's response was the the video processing chip within the D2v is superior for de-interlacing/scaling so that work should remain with the D2v. The projector, upon seeing 1080p, will have its processing in this regard overridden. No worries about additional, unecessary processing. Colour management, as you also would have guessed, belongs at the projector.
> 
> 
> Nick's closing quote: "So... calibrate the projector with its own controls (the way it should always be done), let the D2v do the deinterlacing and scaling, and since the D2v memorizes settings for each input, there's no better place to do aspect ratio control and per-source tweaking for sources that need it."
> 
> 
> Hope that helps anyone with this combo.



Greetings,


Thanks for sharing. I don't think there is any real substitute for using a good quality front projector (if you are set up for front projection). Generally good quality encompasses good onboard video processing. I have the JVC RS20 and never hesitated considering the addition of a processor with a good scaler. The flexibility of the Gennum can't be emphasized enough and is one of the main reasons I moved back to the Anthem from the Denon (HQV's Realta video processor).



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Another interesting CEDIA snippet -- this time from an article focusing on parent company, Paradigm:

http://blog.hometheatermag.com/cedia...91109paradigm/ 



> Quote:
> *Anthem's first receivers are promised for the first quarter of 2010.*



So far no press release, no model numbers, no feature info, and no pricing.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:


How often does Anthem release firmware? I'm hoping for an update for the AVM50v to cure its ills within my system, namely slow handshakes and loss of video while watching TV programs from my Comcast box. I'm still using the official 2.07


Also when is Dolby Volume coming out? It's been promised for a long, long time. I'm tired of being assaulted by loud TV commercials.


-David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No idea on Dolby Volume. I was expecting it to be out already. Dolby included Anthem in their CEDIA press release on Dolby Volume this week, but that's it so far on that front from CEDIA.


Anthem releases firmware when they think it's ready. There is no set schedule.


I'm currently using "test" firmware V2.07f from Anthem's password protected download page. "Test", also called "Beta" firmware is not considered to be finished yet. V2.07 and V2.07f both have some problems in them I'd like to see fixed -- I've reported on pretty much all of that here -- but I don't know how many fixes will be included before some new version goes "official".


There is also an even newer "test" version, V2.07g, which I tried and then removed due to a number of newly introduced problems, particularly with regard to audio.


The last word I got from Nick is that he doesn't expect another "test" version until some days after CEDIA ends this weekend. He didn't volunteer how close they think they are to making the next "official" version.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17162895
> 
> 
> No idea on Dolby Volume. I was expecting it to be out already. Dolby included Anthem in their CEDIA press release on Dolby Volume this week, but that's it so far on that front from CEDIA.
> 
> 
> Anthem releases firmware when they think it's ready. There is no set schedule.
> 
> 
> I'm currently using "test" firmware V2.07f from Anthem's password protected download page. "Test", also called "Beta" firmware is not considered to be finished yet. V2.07 and V2.07f both have some problems in them I'd like to see fixed -- I've reported on pretty much all of that here -- but I don't know how many fixes will be included before some new version goes "official".
> 
> 
> There is also an even newer "test" version, V2.07g, which I tried and then removed due to a number of newly introduced problems, particularly with regard to audio.
> 
> 
> The last word I got from Nick is that he doesn't expect another "test" version until some days after CEDIA ends this weekend. He didn't volunteer how close they think they are to making the next "official" version.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob...and yes I know you have been extremely diligent in testing out their software and posting the results on this forum. Very much appreciated BTW! Its through the posted results of your testing that has scared me off upgrading to these test versions. I cannot afford to brick my 50v and have it sent back to Anthem for repair. With all the bugs you and others have posted on this forum, one has to ask whether Anthem actually does their own code testing to any amount of rigor before they post on their website? Some of the bugs you've found should have been easily caught earlier in their testing...


----------



## Texas steve

I upgraded my D2v to the "f" version and had no issues. Bob gave us warnings about "G". I too asked Carol (sp?) at Anthem about when the next beta or final would be out and I got a non answer.


Thanks again Bob for all your help on this site - we all greatly appreciate it!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17163118
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob...and yes I know you have been extremely diligent in testing out their software and posting the results on this forum. Very much appreciated BTW! Its through the posted results of your testing that has scared me off upgrading to these test versions. I cannot afford to brick my 50v and have it sent back to Anthem for repair. With all the bugs you and others have posted on this forum, one has to ask whether Anthem actually does their own code testing to any amount of rigor before they post on their website? Some of the bugs you've found should have been easily caught earlier in their testing...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17163154
> 
> 
> I upgraded my D2v to the "f" version and had no issues. Bob gave us warnings about "G". I too asked Carol (sp?) at Anthem about when the next beta or final would be out and I got a non answer.
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob for all your help on this site - we all greatly appreciate it!



Texas Steve:


What specific improvements have you found in using the "f" version as compared to the public v2.07 version?

BTW...enjoyed watching and following your ARC journey on this forum


----------



## Texas steve

Cant say I see/hear any difference. I do know that there were a lot of "code" changes and processing changes according to the rev sheet. So maybe it works better and I just dont see under the hood!







Ive taken some additionall ARCmeasurementss today after re-toeing in the fronts, and being much moreprecisee with the mic. It made some goodimprovementss. Ill probably do it again in the next few days with moretweakingg - if my dogs and wife can stand it!!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17163175
> 
> 
> Texas Steve:
> 
> 
> What specific improvements have you found in using the "f" version as compared to the public v2.07 version?
> 
> BTW...enjoyed watching and following your ARC journey on this forum


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17163118
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob...and yes I know you have been extremely diligent in testing out their software and posting the results on this forum. Very much appreciated BTW! Its through the posted results of your testing that has scared me off upgrading to these test versions. I cannot afford to brick my 50v and have it sent back to Anthem for repair. With all the bugs you and others have posted on this forum, one has to ask whether Anthem actually does their own code testing to any amount of rigor before they post on their website? Some of the bugs you've found should have been easily caught earlier in their testing...



Understand that I'm pushing pretty hard on this software. The fewer bugs in it, the fewer questions I have to answer here!










I'm also a Beta tester for the Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player. So every time I find a problem I have to figure out whether it is in the player or in the D2v. This has resulted in a number of my bug reports against the D2v code.


I think the average user would find V2.07f quite pleasant to use. The HDMI code in it definitely seems improved for example. I've no reason to want to go back to "official" V2.07. But nevertheless, it still comes with the *SCARY WARNING!* So at a minimum, you have to feel confident that your firmware install setup (PC and serial connection) are working well.


V2.07g apparently had an audio decoder package change out that was not quite ready for prime time. It happens. That's why "test" software is put out. So folks can find things like this before the software goes into production. From time to time a "test" software release gets out with a serious problem -- even to the point where it gets pulled on the same afternoon. I've been involved in enough software projects that I'm not going to second guess how Anthem vets this stuff, so long as the "official" releases are good enough. Again, keep in mind that we are still in early days with the D2v. And the initial release definitely went out the door too soon. The V2.04 firmware was the first firmware I thought was really production quality.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve









I ran another ARC much more improved and uploaded it. All went well. Now for the problem;


On DVD (bluray) or Cable, the input info says Dolby D 5.1 "none" and I cant change to another mode! it also shows LRC and LS RS. I believe that "none" means No Processing, as "NP" shows up in the status screen. I know its not a source issue as I tried both on the DVD player and the Cable. THX is turned off


My speakers are all correct (5.1) in speaker set up etc. On CD I can change the two channel modes to all the various selections.


I have tried going to "factory reset", turn off, then back on and to User settings (I saved after the most recent ARC), and still the same thing!

HELP PLEASE


----------



## bluemark81

Guys: I've decided to move my AVM50 to greener pastures. I was predetermined that I was going to move up to the D2v, but recently, I have been reading very good things on the Integra DHC-9.9 and the Marantz AV8003. 2 channel music is as important to me as is home theater so I want something that will provide top notch abilities for both. Has anyone had the opportunity to audition these two pieces? How do they compare to the D2v? As much as I have loved my AVM50, I have had a fair number of issues/bugs with it as well and not all of them resolved. Your comments are appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17164089
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran another ARC much more improved and uploaded it. All went well. Now for the problem;
> 
> 
> On DVD (bluray) or Cable, the input info says Dolby D 5.1 "none" and I cant change to another mode! it also shows LRC and LS RS. I believe that "none" means No Processing, as "NP" shows up in the status screen. I know its not a source issue as I tried both on the DVD player and the Cable. THX is turned off
> 
> 
> My speakers are all correct (5.1) in speaker set up etc. On CD I can change the two channel modes to all the various selections.
> 
> 
> I have tried going to "factory reset", turn off, then back on and to User settings (I saved after the most recent ARC), and still the same thing!
> 
> HELP PLEASE



NP means "Not Protected". Contrast with CP = Copy Protected.


--------------------------------------


The Audio Surround Processing modes take audio input and generate additiional speakers worth of output.


Since you only have 5.1 speakers, when handed 5.1 channel input the D2v has no work to do, so the audio modes aren't presented to you. Now at this point you are supposed to say, "But what if I want PLIIx-Music vs. PLIIx-Movie?" The answer is, with 5.1 channel input, those modes only differ in what they generate to send to the REAR speakers. Since you don't have any rear speakers neither of those modes has anything to do.


However, if you play 2.0 channel input content, then you will be presented with those modes to choose between as they differ in how the create 5.1 speaker output from 2.0 channel input.


--------------------------------------


This would be a good time to remind newbies that many tutorial and informative post links are collected in the first post of this thread.


For example, under the topic, "Things You Can Do While Watching / Listening" you will find a link for:

Why Can't I get the audio processing mode I want? 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17164227
> 
> 
> Guys: I've decided to move my AVM50 to greener pastures. I was predetermined that I was going to move up to the D2v, but recently, I have been reading very good things on the Integra DHC-9.9 and the Marantz AV8003. 2 channel music is as important to me as is home theater so I want something that will provide top notch abilities for both. Has anyone had the opportunity to audition these two pieces? How do they compare to the D2v? As much as I have loved my AVM50, I have had a fair number of issues/bugs with it as well and not all of them resolved. Your comments are appreciated. Thanks.



A key factor in your thinking here should be ARC as applied to 2.0 channel input.


Keep in mind that the D2v has better digitizing of analog input and better conversion back to analog for output after processing compared to even the AVM 50v. Which means you can allow the D2v to digitize your 2.0 channel analog sources and apply ARC without paying any penalty. Kal has posted on this here several times for example.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Chris Eberle has a CEDIA report that says the target price for the upcoming Anthem receiver is $2500.

http://cave.hometheaterhifi.com/prof...how-coverage-8 


He also states that the Anthem Blu-Ray player is a "transport" intended to be paired with a processor like the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17164871
> 
> 
> A key factor in your thinking here should be ARC as applied to 2.0 channel input.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the D2v has better digitizing of analog input and better conversion back to analog for output after processing compared to even the AVM 50v. Which means you can allow the D2v to digitize your 2.0 channel analog sources and apply ARC without paying any penalty. Kal has posted on this here several times for example.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for your input Bob. I'm not sure I understand what all that means, but I'm sure in the overall scheme of things, it means better sound quality which certainly is important to me. How about the bugs? Are they all worked out for the most part?


----------



## Texas steve

Bob, no disrespect but I just cant buy that!

Before on a Cable channel that was 5.1 Im vertually certian I was able to press mode and go through various modes (thx off). Now I cant! when I put in a DVD "WallE" as an example it is 5.1 DTS-HD Master Audio and this is shown, but I again cangt change any modes.


So what you are saying is if a source is 5.1 I the user







can make no other mode changes? Can this be right?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17164850
> 
> 
> NP means "Not Protected". Contrast with CP = Copy Protected.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The Audio Surround Processing modes take audio input and generate additiional speakers worth of output.
> 
> 
> Since you only have 5.1 speakers, when handed 5.1 channel input the D2v has no work to do, so the audio modes aren't presented to you. Now at this point you are supposed to say, "But what if I want PLIIx-Music vs. PLIIx-Movie?" The answer is, with 5.1 channel input, those modes only differ in what they generate to send to the REAR speakers. Since you don't have any rear speakers neither of those modes has anything to do.
> 
> 
> However, if you play 2.0 channel input content, then you will be presented with those modes to choose between as they differ in how the create 5.1 speaker output from 2.0 channel input.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> This would be a good time to remind newbies that many tutorial and informative post links are collected in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> For example, under the topic, "Things You Can Do While Watching / Listening" you will find a link for:
> 
> Why Can't I get the audio processing mode I want?
> 
> 
> --Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17165582
> 
> 
> Bob, no disrespect but I just cant buy that!
> 
> Before on a Cable channel that was 5.1 Im vertually certian I was able to press mode and go through various modes (thx off). Now I cant! when I put in a DVD "WallE" as an example it is 5.1 DTS-HD Master Audio and this is shown, but I again cangt change any modes.
> 
> 
> So what you are saying is if a source is 5.1 I the user
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can make no other mode changes? Can this be right?



But he is exactly right. For 2.0->5.1, you get the mode choices. For 5.1->7.1, you get the mode choices. For 5.1->5.1, or 7.1->7.1, you get no mode choices since there's nothing to matrix.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17165411
> 
> 
> Thanks for your input Bob. I'm not sure I understand what all that means, but I'm sure in the overall scheme of things, it means better sound quality which certainly is important to me. How about the bugs? Are they all worked out for the most part?



My recommendation is NOT to move your AV50 out before you do

a side by side test. I'm sure wherever you buy the Integra DHC-9.9

or the Marantz AV8003 will allow you to RETURN IT within some

short period of time.


COMPARE them to the AV50 and I'll BET you stay with Anthem.


I kept my Lexicon and Compared it with a high-end Denon and

Anthem.


The Denon went back and the Lexicon I sent to greener pastures

after the Anthem Arrived.


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17164227
> 
> 
> Guys: I've decided to move my AVM50 to greener pastures. I was predetermined that I was going to move up to the D2v, but recently, I have been reading very good things on the Integra DHC-9.9 and the Marantz AV8003. 2 channel music is as important to me as is home theater so I want something that will provide top notch abilities for both. Has anyone had the opportunity to audition these two pieces? How do they compare to the D2v? As much as I have loved my AVM50, I have had a fair number of issues/bugs with it as well and not all of them resolved. Your comments are appreciated. Thanks.



Interesting... Your are going the opposite way that I am going... I have the Marantz AV8003 and I am going to get the Anthem AVM50v... I have also tested the Integra DHC 9.9.... Let me start with the Marantz, it is a great piece with nice warm sound, with a very nice and smooth top end... Now, here are the problems: customer service is terrible, not very reliable, and for firmware upgrades you need to send your machine to the service center.. Also, for the advance hd codecs you need to decode them in the player otherwise the marantz will turn off the audyssey.. With respect to the customer service and reliability, I can tell you about two experiences, the one with the AV8003 is that with less than a year of use one of the surround back balance outputs no longer works and is looking like a month to get it back from the service center... In the past, I had a SR8002 that was sent to the service center for the firmware upgrade to get rid of the DTS HD bomb bug, and it was smash by UPS, and going back and forth with customer service, I had a new refurbished unit like 3-4 months after the incident...

With respect to the integra, I auditioned it and it sounds dull, insipid to my ears for two channel.. For movies it is great unit...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17165411
> 
> 
> Thanks for your input Bob. I'm not sure I understand what all that means, but I'm sure in the overall scheme of things, it means better sound quality which certainly is important to me. How about the bugs? Are they all worked out for the most part?



Compared to an original AVM 50, some bugs are fixed, but there are also some new bugs that we've been discussing here. Depending on how soon you would be making the new purchase, there may be newer firmware out, but I don't know which issues you would find most annoying.


By the way, there is also new "test" firmware out for the AVM 50, so a firmware update for that one is also in the works.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/17165993
> 
> 
> Interesting... Your are going the opposite way that I am going... I have the Marantz AV8003 and I am going to get the Anthem AVM50v... I have also tested the Integra DHC 9.9.... Let me start with the Marantz, it is a great piece with nice warm sound, with a very nice and smooth top end... Now, here are the problems: customer service is terrible, not very reliable, and for firmware upgrades you need to send your machine to the service center.. Also, for the advance hd codecs you need to decode them in the player otherwise the marantz will turn off the audyssey.. With respect to the customer service and reliability, I can tell you about two experiences, the one with the AV8003 is that with less than a year of use one of the surround back balance outputs no longer works and is looking like a month to get it back from the service center... In the past, I had a SR8002 that was sent to the service center for the firmware upgrade to get rid of the DTS HD bomb bug, and it was smash by UPS, and going back and forth with customer service, I had a new refurbished unit like 3-4 months after the incident...
> 
> With respect to the integra, I auditioned it and it sounds dull, insipid to my ears for two channel.. For movies it is great unit...



3 Cheers for *gonzalc3* - That is why I suggested to *Bluemark81*

that he NOT let go of his AV50.


You Did the Testing and know what he will find - THE *HARD WAY*.


3 Cheers for *gonzalc3*


----------



## Texas steve

I was deciding between the exact same units and chose the D2v. As a note the DHC 9.9 is going to be replaced by the 40.1 and 70.1 (I think those are the numbers) in the next two months. the receiver versions from Onkyo of these new mdl numbers have been released in Europe.


The Marantz 8300 has also been replaced their receiver versions of this as well and a new version / # of 8300 will be out soon.


I did not listen to any of these but choose the D2v because of service and quality. Features I think the new DHC mdl# has them all beat! But in the end I'm in it for the quality of both the video and most importantly support. And I got a new D2v for $5K










Yes there are some "issues" with Anthem, I'm going through a couple now. But I'm sure with the Anthem support team, and people on this web like Bob and others all issue will and are being addressed.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17165901
> 
> 
> My recommendation is NOT to move your AV50 out before you do
> 
> a side by side test. I'm sure wherever you buy the Integra DHC-9.9
> 
> or the Marantz AV8003 will allow you to RETURN IT within some
> 
> short period of time.
> 
> 
> COMPARE them to the AV50 and I'll BET you stay with Anthem.
> 
> 
> I kept my Lexicon and Compared it with a high-end Denon and
> 
> Anthem.
> 
> 
> The Denon went back and the Lexicon I sent to greener pastures
> 
> after the Anthem Arrived.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17165582
> 
> 
> Bob, no disrespect but I just cant buy that!
> 
> Before on a Cable channel that was 5.1 Im vertually certian I was able to press mode and go through various modes (thx off). Now I cant! when I put in a DVD "WallE" as an example it is 5.1 DTS-HD Master Audio and this is shown, but I again cangt change any modes.
> 
> 
> So what you are saying is if a source is 5.1 I the user
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can make no other mode changes? Can this be right?



That's precisely what I am saying -- presuming you only have 5.1 speakers specified.


You can turn THX on or off. You can adjust Tone controls. You can adjust Dynamics. You can do temporary speaker level adjustments.


But you can't apply an audio surround mode because with 5.1 channel input there is no work for any of them to do. The surround modes don't alter the input channels. They just add output speakers. And since you have 5.1 speakers, whenever you listen to 5.1 input channels there are no additional speakers that can be added for output.


In the case of your cable box when watching 5.1 programs, are you sure you weren't sending LPCM (i.e., 2.0 channel down-mix) before to the D2v instead of 5.1 Bitstream? If the input is 2.0, then of course there are various audio surround modes you can apply to raise that to a larger number of speakers for output.


---------------------------------------


If you have FEWER than 5.1 speakers, then the down-mix from 5.1 channel input to the smaller number of speakers happens automatically as described in Manual Section 3.3.


So for example, if you feed 2.0 channel input into PLIIx-Movie and only have 4.0 speakers (no Center speaker and no Subwoofer), then PLIIx-Movie will raise the 2.0 input to 5.1 speakers, after which the D2v will steer the Center speaker content and the Sub content both to LF/RF so you don't lose anything. The net result is 2.0 input raise to 4.0 output.


If you feed 5.1 channel input into the same 4.0 speakers, PLIIx-Movie will revert to None, but the D2v will still steer Center speaker and Subwoofer content (including the LFE input channel) to LF/RF so you lose nothing.


[The actual implementation has the two steps combined, but it is easier to understand if you think of them as two steps.]


----------------------------------------


One confusing aspect of this is that the Setup > Mode Presets menu allows you to specify default audio surround modes without regard to your current Speaker Configuration. So for example you can set PLIIx-Movie as the default mode for 5.1 channel input even though you only happen to have 5.1 speakers configured.


However when you actually play 5.1 content, the default PLIIx-Movie mode that you selected reverts to None if you only have 5.1 speakers -- again because there is no work for it to do.


If you have 7.1 speakers configured, then the PLIIx-Movie mode for 5.1 channel input would stay in effect -- and would generate audio for your 2 Rear speakers. The audio going to your remaining 5.1 speakers would not be altered. So in essence it is None for 5.1 of your speakers and PLIIx for the 2 Rear speakers.


--------------------------------------------------


ETA: Contrast with THX post processing which actually alters the audio -- even for speakers that match up with current input channels.


But even in the case of THX, some of the THX processing alternatives are only available if you have 7.1 speakers configured because these THX alternatives only differ in the way the audio going to the REAR speakers is altered. If you only have 5.1 speakers, these THX alternatives are not presented to you when you cycle through things with the THX button and the Up/Down arrows.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Okeydokey,

With my Meridian it would take your 5.1 and you could choose a host of other modes and it would "modify" them for 5.1 and worked great.


Perhaps when I could change modes before I was in 2.0 mode on the cable! Hmmmmmmmmm! Not sure I'm happy with the idea of not changing but if that is what it is - then so be it. Even my wife who has tin ears said - that doesn't sound right!


thanks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17165693
> 
> 
> But he is exactly right. For 2.0->5.1, you get the mode choices. For 5.1->7.1, you get the mode choices. For 5.1->5.1, or 7.1->7.1, you get no mode choices since there's nothing to matrix.


----------



## Texas steve

Well explained! Yes perhaps I did have the 2.0 from the cable before as I had posted and thats probably where I remember changing the modes. Yes it is confusing because of the other choices in the setup mode that it gives you the choices that you can not use.


"So it is written, so it is done"! I still tossed and turned all night wonder what the %$#@ was wrong!


Thanks again bob, your prompt input and wisdom is greatly appreciated.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17166082
> 
> 
> That's precisely what I am saying -- presuming you only have 5.1 speakers specified.
> 
> 
> You can turn THX on or off. You can adjust Tone controls. You can adjust Dynamics. You can do temporary speaker level adjustments.
> 
> 
> But you can't apply an audio surround mode because with 5.1 channel input there is no work for any of them to do. The surround modes don't alter the input channels. They just add output speakers. And since you have 5.1 speakers, whenever you listen to 5.1 input channels there are no additional speakers that can be added for output.
> 
> 
> In the case of your cable box when watching 5.1 programs, are you sure you weren't sending LPCM (i.e., 2.0 channel down-mix) before to the D2v instead of 5.1 Bitstream? If the input is 2.0, then of course there are various audio surround modes you can apply to raise that to a larger number of speakers for output.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you have FEWER than 5.1 speakers, then the down-mix from 5.1 channel input to the smaller number of speakers happens automatically as described in Manual Section 3.3.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> One confusing aspect of this is that the Setup > Mode Presets menu allows you to specify default audio surround modes without regard to your current Speaker Configuration. So for example you can set PLIIx-Movie as the default mode for 5.1 channel input even though you only happen to have 5.1 speakers configured.
> 
> 
> However when you actually play 5.1 content, the default PLIIx-Movie mode that you selected reverts to None if you only have 5.1 speakers -- again because there is no work for it to do.
> 
> 
> If you have 7.1 speakers configured, then the PLIIx-Movie mode for 5.1 channel input would stay in effect -- and would generate audio for your 2 Rear speakers. The audio going to your remaining 5.1 speakers would not be altered. So in essence it is None for 5.1 of your speakers and PLIIx for the 2 Rear speakers.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17166122
> 
> 
> Well explained! Yes perhaps I did have the 2.0 from the cable before as I had posted and thats probably where I remember changing the modes. Yes it is confusing because of the other choices in the setup mode that it gives you the choices that you can not use.
> 
> 
> "So it is written, so it is done"! I still tossed and turned all night wonder what the %$#@ was wrong!
> 
> 
> Thanks again bob, your prompt input and wisdom is greatly appreciated.



You are welcome. And if it is any consolation to you, it took me about 3 months to figure this out myself when I first got my original D2.


The charts in the Manual are pretty good, but they don't really spell out that some of the modes are only applicable if you have enough speakers.


I suspect your older Meridian was doing much the same thing -- i.e., letting you specify processing modes but then not actually DOING anything with them when you had multi-channel input. That's actually quite common in other receivers.


It helps to think in terms of two different features. Surround modes raise input to more speakers, post-processing (e.g., THX) alters the audio destined for a given speaker. By the way, I just added some additional explanation to that post above.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The other confusing aspect of this is that some surround modes aren't available if you turn on THX.


So for example, Mono-Academy mode is not available if THX is on. That's because THX also provides a form of treble reduction -- more subtle than what's needed for full "Academy" re-equalization of old-time movie audio tracks.


---------------------------------------


One of the more annoying aspects of the PS3 is that it takes CDs and outputs them as 5.1 LPCM (with only LF/RF actually containing any audio). Which means you can't apply surround modes in the Anthem! This is a long-standing PS3 bug.

--Bob


----------



## highanddry

Watched Disney's "Earth" last night on Blu-ray. All I can say is the inevitable...

























.



That was the single best visual/auditory experience of my life (when sober). I'm sure the content itself was the major player, but I have now convinced myself that the D2v has paid for itself.


----------



## Texas steve

I would think that if you have a 5.1 DD inut as it explaines on page 36 of the manual you could cho0se (mode) any of the ones listed under "dd-5.1" am I wrong? I guess this is what I was looking at and thought I could choose any of those when in 5.1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17166182
> 
> 
> You are welcome. And if it is any consolation to you, it took me about 3 months to figure this out myself when I first got my original D2.
> 
> 
> The charts in the Manual are pretty good, but they don't really spell out that some of the modes are only applicable if you have enough speakers.
> 
> 
> I suspect your older Meridian was doing much the same thing -- i.e., letting you specify processing modes but then not actually DOING anything with them when you had multi-channel input. That's actually quite common in other receivers.
> 
> 
> It helps to think in terms of two different features. Surround modes raise input to more speakers, post-processing (e.g., THX) alters the audio destined for a given speaker. By the way, I just added some additional explanation to that post above.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17166227
> 
> 
> I would think that if you have a 5.1 DD inut as it explaines on page 36 of the manual you could cho0se (mode) any of the ones listed under "dd-5.1" am I wrong? I guess this is what I was looking at and thought I could choose any of those when in 5.1



That's the Setup > Mode Presets menu which specifies your default choice for audio mode when each type of input comes in from each source.


As I said above, that menu allows you to specify modes AS IF you had a 7.1 speaker configuration even if you don't.


But when you actually listen to content, the specified default mode reverts to what can really happen given the actual number of speakers you have configured.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *highanddry* /forum/post/17166216
> 
> 
> Watched Disney's "Earth" last night on Blu-ray. All I can say is the inevitable...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> That was the single best visual/auditory experience of my life (when sober). I'm sure the content itself was the major player, but I have now convinced myself that the D2v has paid for itself.



Gee! Watch it again and you'll make a profit!









--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Got it. Given that with your expierence what have you choosen at the "default" for your cable 5.1 mode?


Thank you Oh Great One!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17166267
> 
> 
> That's the Setup > Mode Presets menu which specifies your default choice for audio mode when each type of input comes in from each source.
> 
> 
> As I said above, that menu allows you to specify modes AS IF you had a 7.1 speaker configuration even if you don't.
> 
> 
> But when you actually listen to content, the specified default mode reverts to what can really happen given the actual number of speakers you have configured.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I use Optical digital cabling for audio (and Component for video) from my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR. I have the HD-DVR set to output "Bitstream" for audio (which gets me DD 5.1 from programs broadcast that way), and to send 1080i or 480i for video. The box doesn't allow me to get 720p automatically from HDTV channels broadcast that way.


In the D2v, I have Anthem Logic-Cinema specified as the Mode Preset for 2.0 channel input and PLIIx-Movie for 5.1 channel input. Of course the PLIIx-Movie doesn't do anything in my 5.1 speaker setup, but if I ever add Rear speakers I won't have to go in and change it. I have THX off by default for both.


When watching TV, DD5.1 input of course nothing happens. Mode is None.


2.0 input comes up as AL-Cinema by default and that's what I use for normal programs. But if the program happens to be a movie, I switch to PLIIx-Movie manually using the remote.


Now if I'm watching a movie made in the 50s or earlier, the 2.0 input is actually monaural, and I need to listen to decide whether the movie has ALREADY been re-equalized to get rid of the deliberate treble boost that was added back then to deal with the fact that the speakers were placed behind the rather thick movie screens used back then. This treble boost was standardized as Academy Equalization (by the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences), and if it is not removed for home theater it leaves the movie sounding harsh, brittle, tinny, scratchy or whatever words you like for that olde-timey movie sound.


And if that's what I'm hearing I manually switch the mode to Mono-Academy which applies the necessary treble reduction (Academy re-equalization) making the sound track from these old movies sound much MUCH better -- the way they were intended to be heard.


But many older movies on TV have ALREADY had that done, and you don't want to do it twice. So you have to listen and decide. Now you can't get BOTH Academy re-equalization and surround mode processing, but if your Center speaker is good enough the benefits of proper Academy re-equalization out-weight the fun of surround channels so I use Mono-Academy.


Similarly, for newer movies, a much more subtle form of treble boost is added for theatrical release, and that needs to be removed for home theater. THX re-equalization does that. You can apply THX re-equalization independent of whether the rest of the THX post processing is turned on. Press the THX button twice to view whether re-equalization is on and use the Up/Down arrows to toggle.


However, newer movies broadcast on TV (and on SD-DVD or Blu-Ray discs) have almost without exception ALREADY been re-equalized for home theater, so for the most part you should leave THX re-equalization OFF in the D2v.


The rest of the THX post-processing makes subtle alterations to the surround audio to improve the surround experience. But my strong recommendation is that you leave THX post-processing turned OFF when using ARC (with the exception of the separate re-equalization for a handful of movies). ARC produces such clean surround sound that any such post processing will be audible as slightly less clean audio which I find more annoying then any enhancement it produces.


So I leave THX turned off all the time and I leave THX re-equalization turned off by default as well. I can't remember the last time I decided I needed to turn THX re-equalization on for some movie.


Keep in mind that a lot of these choices are personal preference. There's no patently right answer.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Interesting, so rather than HDMI out of you box you use Digital? This way you can switch to all the different fromats. So I understand, if you do it the way you describe, and then a 5.1 show comes on your processor does switch to 5.1! If this is the case perhaps thats what Ill do,of course the digital coax is more compressed than HDMI correct?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17166391
> 
> 
> I use Optical digital cabling for audio (and Component for video) from my Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR. I have the HD-DVR set to output "Bitstream" for audio (which gets me DD 5.1 from programs broadcast that way), --Bob


----------



## Ludovico_ BR

Hi,


Well, as long as the source does not use HD codecs this won't be a problem. The fact that HDMI can do it lossless and Optical can't will not matter.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17166793
> 
> 
> Interesting, so rather than HDMI out of you box you use Digital? This way you can switch to all the different fromats. So I understand, if you do it the way you describe, and then a 5.1 show comes on your processor does switch to 5.1! If this is the case perhaps thats what Ill do,of course the digital coax is more compressed than HDMI correct?



No. There is no difference in signal types or signal quality or what you can do with the signal in the D2v for the cable TV box using HDMI audio vs. Optical Digital audio. The new "lossless" high-bandwidth audio formats don't exist for cable/satellite or off-air TV.


I use Optical audio from the cable box because my cable box does two handshakes for HDMI with audio -- first video, then video with audio -- so there's an extra delay before HDMI audio starts up. I use Component for video because my cable box comes with factory installed bugs if you use HDMI -- the infamous Big Green Line On The Right being the most notable.


It is still the case with Optical Digital audio that if the program is DD5.1 my audio surround mode in the D2v will be None since I only have 5.1 speakers configured. If the program input is 2.0 then I use the audio surround modes as described.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ludovico_ BR* /forum/post/17166894
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Well, as long as the source does not use HD codecs this won't be a problem. The fact that HDMI can do it lossless and Optical can't will not matter.



First post! Welcome to AVS and welcome to the Cool Kids Thread. Do you own an Anthem processor?

--Bob


----------



## Ludovico_ BR

Hi!


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17166922
> 
> 
> First post! Welcome to AVS and welcome to the Cool Kids Thread. Do you own an Anthem processor?
> 
> --Bob



Thanks a lot! Unfortunatelly, not yet!







But working on it and by now trying to do my homework. My A2 is to be arriving coming week thought...


----------



## Texas steve

Got it. I think we can put this one to rest now. I have Comcast but not the recorder, I have the Moto HD box and there is no handshake problem.


On another note. With your DVD and CD via HDMI. On CD - have you ever tried optical and compared it with HDMI sound quality?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17166917
> 
> 
> No. There is no difference in signal types or signal quality or what you can do with the signal in the D2v for the cable TV box using HDMI audio vs. Optical Digital audio. The new "lossless" high-bandwidth audio formats don't exist for cable/satellite or off-air TV.
> 
> 
> I use Optical audio from the cable box because my cable box does two handshakes for HDMI with audio -- first video, then video with audio -- so there's an extra delay before HDMI audio starts up. I use Component for video because my cable box comes with factory installed bugs if you use HDMI -- the infamous Big Green Line On The Right being the most notable.
> 
> 
> It is still the case with Optical Digital audio that if the program is DD5.1 my audio surround mode in the D2v will be None since I only have 5.1 speakers configured. If the program input is 2.0 then I use the audio surround modes as described.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17166963
> 
> 
> Got it. I think we can put this one to rest now. I have Comcast but not the recorder, I have the Moto HD box and there is no handshake problem.
> 
> 
> On another note. With your DVD and CD via HDMI. On CD - have you ever tried optical and compared it with HDMI sound quality?



For normal CDs there is no difference. The signals are bit for bit identical. It is 16-bit 44.1 KHz LPCM 2.0 either way.


However for HDCD the Oppo BDP-83, when set to HDMI LPCM output, will decode the special, compatible, HDCD data to produce 20-bit LPCM. That gets packed into 24-bit 44.1Khz HDMI LPCM 2.0 for output. Since the D2v doesn't decode HDCD (it plays HDCD tracks just as if they were CD tracks -- they are designed to be compatible that way), using HDMI LPCM from the Oppo is the way to go for these, rather than HDMI Bitstream or Optical Digital.


[ETA: HDCD discs use a special compatible encoding format to pack the dynamic range of 20-bit data into 16-bit data at the expense of raising the noise floor. The 20-bit stream can be recovered from this, or the encoding can just be ignored and played as a normal 16-bit CD stream. The 20-bit stream plays 6dB quieter -- which helps conceal the raised noise floor -- so you need to turn up the volume a bit when playing that. It's kind of a hack, really, but if you have HDCD discs it is better to play them the way they were intended to be played. Don't confuse HDCD with true, high-bandwidth formats such as SACD or DVD-Audio, or the lossless tracks on Blu-Ray discs.]

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Mostly I was curios if there was a "sound" difference, better etc?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17167006
> 
> 
> For normal CDs there is no difference. The signals are bit for bit identical. It is 16-bit 44.1 KHz LPCM 2.0 either way.
> 
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17167223
> 
> 
> Mostly I was curios if there was a "sound" difference, better etc?



No difference. The identical digital signal goes into the identical digital processing. So if we heard any difference it would be a bug. I've not heard any difference.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17166017
> 
> 
> Compared to an original AVM 50, some bugs are fixed, but there are also some new bugs that we've been discussing here. Depending on how soon you would be making the new purchase, there may be newer firmware out, but I don't know which issues you would find most annoying.
> 
> 
> By the way, there is also new "test" firmware out for the AVM 50, so a firmware update for that one is also in the works.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I did try the new test software and it did not fix my hiss/hum issue. Also, I lost video with my Satellite input. It comes on for a split second before the screen goes black. So I am back to using 1.31.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/17165993
> 
> 
> Interesting... Your are going the opposite way that I am going... I have the Marantz AV8003 and I am going to get the Anthem AVM50v... I have also tested the Integra DHC 9.9.... Let me start with the Marantz, it is a great piece with nice warm sound, with a very nice and smooth top end... Now, here are the problems: customer service is terrible, not very reliable, and for firmware upgrades you need to send your machine to the service center.. Also, for the advance hd codecs you need to decode them in the player otherwise the marantz will turn off the audyssey.. With respect to the customer service and reliability, I can tell you about two experiences, the one with the AV8003 is that with less than a year of use one of the surround back balance outputs no longer works and is looking like a month to get it back from the service center... In the past, I had a SR8002 that was sent to the service center for the firmware upgrade to get rid of the DTS HD bomb bug, and it was smash by UPS, and going back and forth with customer service, I had a new refurbished unit like 3-4 months after the incident...
> 
> With respect to the integra, I auditioned it and it sounds dull, insipid to my ears for two channel.. For movies it is great unit...



Christian:


Thanks....exactly the type of information that will help me make the right decision.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17167269
> 
> 
> No difference. The identical digital signal goes into the identical digital processing. So if we heard any difference it would be a bug. I've not heard any difference.
> 
> --Bob



jitter


For the record I agree with Bob on this but I like stirring the pot.










I always thought it was an oversight by Anthem to not support HDCD decoding. It is a hack but a very clever and effective one. Of course with the Oppo it is now a moot point.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Cue the jitterbugs!









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A poster in an NAD receiver thread here, discussing CEDIA, says that the new Anthem receivers are made in Taiwan and will start at $1K. I believe that is a second-hand report -- heard from his dealer who was just back from CEDIA.


Another poster then responded that he heard at CEDIA that Anthem is working on a D3 with a target price of $15K.


I've not been able to find any confirmation, or even speculation, on either of these rumors. There's still no Anthem press release out on the BLX-200 Blu-Ray player or the upcoming receivers.

--Bob


----------



## highanddry

FOR SALE:


1 half-used, but working condition wife.

5'6", 120 pounds, brown hair, 33 years old.

Responds to "Janice", "wife".

Mild temperament, all shots.

Asking price: $15,000, non-negotiable.


----------



## Texas steve

"half-use"?!! no slopy seconds for me!! However my wife is about to kill me listening to ARC tones all day, and the rest of the day with my face in the manual and programing my Nevo remote!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *highanddry* /forum/post/17172980
> 
> 
> FOR SALE:
> 
> 
> 1 half-used, but working condition wife.
> 
> 5'6", 120 pounds, brown hair, 33 years old.
> 
> Responds to "Janice", "wife".
> 
> Mild temperament, all shots.
> 
> Asking price: $15,000, non-negotiable.


----------



## Texas steve

Bob, I know you are a tester for the Opo. I currently have a Sony BDPS- 550. I'm looking to "move up". I must admit I do like the idea of some of the new players ability to connect to NetFlix etc. Any thoughts/recommendations?


Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17173042
> 
> 
> Bob, I know you are a tester for the Opo. I currently have a Sony BDPS- 550. I'm looking to "move up". I must admit I do like the idea of some of the new players ability to connect to NetFlix etc. Any thoughts/recommendations?
> 
> 
> Steve



The only Blu-Ray player I recommend at the moment is the Oppo BDP-83, and I recommend that one most heartily. This replaces my previous recommendation of the PS3. I don't know enough about other players to say anything useful about them.


[Unlike the "test" firmware stuff I report on here for the D2v, what I learn as a beta tester for the Oppo player is covered by non-disclosure. I can only talk about the product as it is shipping now.]


The BDP-83 does not include playback of streaming media.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17161481
> 
> 
> We all know whose payroll you should be on even if they pay in Canadian dollars



Canadian dollars the new leading currency


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17175630
> 
> 
> Canadian dollars the new leading currency



Then maybe I can find a PAYING Job in Canada


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I wouldn't mind working in Canada. There's lots of nice stuff up there.










Anybody interested?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Rumors! We Got Rumors!*


I think this is more than speculation, but it is very much in the category of unconfirmed rumors at this point.


Anthem is said to be actively working on a Statement D3. The target price is said to be around $15K. The one other piece of info is that the D3 is supposed to scale to HIGHER than 1080p. It may also accept input higher than 1080p resolution. [HDMI V1.3 includes higher resolutions in the spec, although nobody is using them. These would put even more burden on the poor HDMI cables of course. Video processor chips to handle higher resolutions are definitely in the works.]


Anthem is said to be actively working on a projector to pair up with the D3. The target price is said to be around $20K.


I've got no further information yet, including what the target release dates might be for these. Personally, I'd be surprised if they were announced before CEDIA next year (September 2010) for first shipment early in 2011.


If any of you have other details, feel free to post here or PM me.

--Bob


----------



## WestCoastD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17177180
> 
> 
> *the D3 is supposed to scale to HIGHER than 1080p. It may also accept input higher than 1080p resolution. Anthem is said to be actively working on a projector to pair up with the D3
> *


*


wow! this is exciting. I guess we knew this was coming. But this soon? Also I'm assuming this updated resolution increase would primarily be targeted towards projector market?*


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *highanddry* /forum/post/17172980
> 
> 
> FOR SALE:
> 
> 
> 1 half-used, but working condition wife.
> 
> 5'6", 120 pounds, brown hair, 33 years old.
> 
> Responds to "Janice", "wife".
> 
> Mild temperament, all shots.
> 
> Asking price: $15,000, non-negotiable.



What's the monthly maintenance like?


----------



## highanddry

False advertising if I said maintenance free?


I'll throw in the boy for the other $20k I'm gonna need. Better be careful here; I think people have actually gone to jail for selling kids on the internet.


Bob, you're single-handedly destroying my family. The way I do the math, I'm only left with a daughter and a dog (and a D3).


----------



## LEVESQUE

The next big thing in projectors is 4K resolution...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/17178408
> 
> 
> The next big thing in projectors is 4K resolution...



Really - Who would have GUESSED That.


How is your 4K Beta Testing Going


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17173178
> 
> 
> The only Blu-Ray player I recommend at the moment is the Oppo BDP-83, and I recommend that one most heartily. This replaces my previous recommendation of the PS3. I don't know enough about other players to say anything useful about them.
> 
> 
> [Unlike the "test" firmware stuff I report on here for the D2v, what I learn as a beta tester for the Oppo player is covered by non-disclosure. I can only talk about the product as it is shipping now.]
> 
> 
> The BDP-83 does not include playback of streaming media.
> 
> --Bob




Bob, at this point, whey would it be beneficial to to purchase a the new oppo player over the ps3?


I already own the ps3.?


Also, I was wondering if you have upgraded your comcast box yet to the new motorola DCX-3425? And if so if you have anything to report on it?


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17176524
> 
> 
> I wouldn't mind working in Canada. There's lots of nice stuff up there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody interested?
> 
> --Bob



Bob, if you can install LAN, WAN, Fiber, security, cctv, paging, nursecall, and put up with the B.S. of construction,,,, your hired!!!

Our ISDN thou is A


----------



## Donloz

I fore got the most important thing,, WE have medical


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17177180
> 
> *Rumors! We Got Rumors!*
> 
> 
> I think this is more than speculation, but it is very much in the category of unconfirmed rumors at this point.
> 
> 
> Anthem is said to be actively working on a Statement D3. The target price is said to be around $15K. The one other piece of info is that the D3 is supposed to scale to HIGHER than 1080p. It may also accept input higher than 1080p resolution. [HDMI V1.3 includes higher resolutions in the spec, although nobody is using them. These would put even more burden on the poor HDMI cables of course. Video processor chips to handle higher resolutions are definitely in the works.]
> 
> 
> Anthem is said to be actively working on a projector to pair up with the D3. The target price is said to be around $20K.
> 
> 
> I've got no further information yet, including what the target release dates might be for these. Personally, I'd be surprised if they were announced before CEDIA next year (September 2010) for first shipment early in 2011.
> 
> 
> If any of you have other details, feel free to post here or PM me.
> 
> --Bob



To be honest at the moment I would rather they spend their obvious talent on solving some of the issues with the D2V rather than working on a $15K processor that I for one cannot afford.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/17178648
> 
> 
> Bob, at this point, whey would it be beneficial to to purchase a the new oppo player over the ps3?
> 
> 
> I already own the ps3.?
> 
> 
> Also, I was wondering if you have upgraded your comcast box yet to the new motorola DCX-3425? And if so if you have anything to report on it?



The SD-DVD performance on the Oppo is a knockout. This also carries over to "extras" content on Blu-Ray discs. It is now my reference SD-DVD player.


SACD and DVD-Audio support as well.


More control over the video output settings. More control in general. Able to change player settings on the fly (while a movie is playing).


And the only downside is no streaming support in the Oppo. Just as snappy in performance for example.


I have not switched Comcast boxes. I suppose I should see if it is even available here. I'm really REALLY hoping FIOS TV becomes available here next month as it is supposed to. I'd love to say goodbye to Comcast.

--Bob


----------



## huetamo

Hi Everyone:


I think I have a problem with my AVM 50.


A couple of weeks ago I called Nick at Athem & told him about the popping sound I have when I change inputs on my AVM 50. He sent me a test it came back yes/no. He gave me the OK to install the firmware version V.47F (I had V1.33) to solve the problem. I thought the problem was solved but when I play the blu-ray movie Amadeus the screen goes black, flickers & makes a popping sound for a few seconds & then goes back to normal. Then 2 or 3 minutes later it starts all over again. (the disc is not dirty). I have the same problem with the blu-ray Dark Knight but not as often. On the other hand I don't have any problems with the blu-ray disc Pirates of the Caribbean. My player is Panasonic DMP-BD35 with current firmware. I tested these movies on my other system with the same blu-ray player & Pioneer Elite receiver SC-25 and had no problems.


So, do you think I'm doing something wrong? I tried it with 24P output on the blu-ray ON & OFF, HDMI resolution auto & 1080p, HDMI digital output PCM and bitstream and the same thing happened. Now I tried the following on the AVM50 resolution 1920x1080p, auto, the data set to auto, Ycbcr, 4:4:4 and 4:2:2, film mode auto & off, color space auto & HDTV, frame lock auto & off the same thing happened. I even sent the video from HDMI and audio from optical. The screen flickers but I don't have any audio popping which makes me think it's a video related problem? I know some of the things I tried are irrelevant but I tried them anyway. Maybe I didn't install the firmware correctly, but when I finished installing it I didn't get any errors.


I pay attention the the AVM50 display when it's working normal and it displays PCM 1080p. When the problem occurs the display changes to Digital Main. So now I'm even more confused?


On the Panasonic blu-ray when the picture is normal the display reads chapter & elapse time when the problem occurs it reads HDMI. This happens after the Anthem stops flickering & popping or when the movie is stable. Also when I turn the blu-ray off there is a hissing sound coming from the center speaker, it continues until I change the input on the AVM50. Even when I change the input I get an intermittent hissing.


When I play a regular DVD in my Sony player the movie looks like its in slight slow motion, it does not appear to be a lip sync problem. Do you think this a related problem, my settings or my imagination?


As you can tell I am a "Desperado" man looking for input & wisdom from you guys before I call Nick again. I hope I explained this well & sorry for the long post.


----------



## dmusoke

Hi Bob:


This is my first ARC calibration on my new 5.1 speaker system with the 50v. Your help and comments would be greatly appreciated










Thanks,

David


BTW...if this helps:

My fronts and center speakers are about 2 feet from the back wall on stands with the fronts toed in to my listening position. The center now is on top of my RPTV so its higher than the L/R fronts speakers by about 1 ft. Once I get my new plasma and entertainment furniture setup, the center will be within the cabinet and ofcourse lower than the other fronts. The surrounds are flush to the back wall of my couch. Only movement will be the toe-in angle.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17177180
> 
> *Rumors! We Got Rumors!*
> 
> 
> I think this is more than speculation, but it is very much in the category of unconfirmed rumors at this point.
> 
> 
> Anthem is said to be actively working on a Statement D3. The target price is said to be around $15K. The one other piece of info is that the D3 is supposed to scale to HIGHER than 1080p. It may also accept input higher than 1080p resolution. [HDMI V1.3 includes higher resolutions in the spec, although nobody is using them. These would put even more burden on the poor HDMI cables of course. Video processor chips to handle higher resolutions are definitely in the works.]
> 
> 
> Anthem is said to be actively working on a projector to pair up with the D3. The target price is said to be around $20K.
> 
> 
> I've got no further information yet, including what the target release dates might be for these. Personally, I'd be surprised if they were announced before CEDIA next year (September 2010) for first shipment early in 2011.
> 
> 
> If any of you have other details, feel free to post here or PM me.
> 
> --Bob



I met an Anthem rep in Toronto almost 2 years ago when I was looking at getting my D1 upgraded. He told me then that a D3 was in the works and it was featuring a 4K video processor but that's all he would say. I guess the D2/v software issues with HDMI have distracted the engineering team for some while delaying any D2 replacement.


----------



## Justin73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17177180
> 
> *Rumors! We Got Rumors!*
> 
> 
> I think this is more than speculation, but it is very much in the category of unconfirmed rumors at this point.
> 
> 
> Anthem is said to be actively working on a Statement D3. The target price is said to be around $15K.



Does anyone know if Anthem has a rumored release date for the D3?


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I hope that they keep something in the middle between the 50v and D3. If the D3 is really 15 to 20k US that is a big spread up from where the D2v is now. I would have to guess that this thread would get smaller if the 50v did not get the audio processing of the D2v and the D3 was the next piece in the lineup.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17180379
> 
> 
> Hi Bob:
> 
> 
> This is my first ARC calibration on my new 5.1 speaker system with the 50v. Your help and comments would be greatly appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David
> 
> 
> BTW...if this helps:
> 
> My fronts and center speakers are about 2 feet from the back wall on stands with the fronts toed in to my listening position. The center now is on top of my RPTV so its higher than the L/R fronts speakers by about 1 ft. Once I get my new plasma and entertainment furniture setup, the center will be within the cabinet and ofcourse lower than the other fronts. The surrounds are flush to the back wall of my couch. Only movement will be the toe-in angle.



Hi,


May I ask what are your speakers? I am a bit puzzled why your speakers are sharply rolling off starting at 140 hertz, this is quite high. Even my rear speakers with 5 1/2 woofers are capable down to 60 hertz.


Alvin


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin73* /forum/post/17180925
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Anthem has a rumored release date for the D3?



I understand the product life of the D2V is expected to be 18-24 months.


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/17182201
> 
> 
> I understand the product life of the D2V is expected to be 18-24 months.



12 of which is spent getting it to work right, evidently.


As a D2 owner, I'm still waiting for the "official" firmware update to fix the HDMI issues, and many D2V owners are waiting for needed updates to fix HDMI issues, noises, etc. On pieces of this level, it's my opinion that HDMI ought to work right, and obvious switching noises, etc., are unacceptable. My $2k Denon receiver never has an HDMI issue plugged into exactly the same model DirecTV receiver as my Anthem.


Don't get me wrong..... I really like my D2 (D1HD), but I'm concerned that one of the reasons I left Aragon and went with Anthem were the promises of timely and affordable upgrades, and those are now are seeming being left by the wayside. Now the D2V upgrade has been dropped in lieu of a $4K exchange, and the next version will cost $15K, which is also out of my range, and, I'm guessing, will not be offered as a D2V upgrade.


I'm not condemning Anthem, far from it........ but I am concerned they are going in a direction I can't follow, IMHO.


----------



## malcolmp6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/17182436
> 
> 
> 12 of which is spent getting it to work right, evidently.
> 
> 
> As a D2 owner, I'm still waiting for the "official" firmware update to fix the HDMI issues, and many D2V owners are waiting for needed updates to fix HDMI issues, noises, etc. On pieces of this level, it's my opinion that HDMI ought to work right, and obvious switching noises, etc., are unacceptable. My $2k Denon receiver never has an HDMI issue plugged into exactly the same model DirecTV receiver as my Anthem.
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong..... I really like my D2 (D1HD), but I'm concerned that one of the reasons I left Aragon and went with Anthem were the promises of timely and affordable upgrades, and those are now are seeming being left by the wayside. Now the D2V upgrade has been dropped in lieu of a $4K exchange, and the next version will cost $15K, which is also out of my range, and, I'm guessing, will not be offered as a D2V upgrade.
> 
> 
> I'm not condemning Anthem, far from it........ but I am concerned they are going in a direction I can't follow, IMHO.



+1.


I had a lowly Yamaha 663, Integra DTR 8.8 and Denon 3808 ci and had no HDMI issues with any of these receivers. All are HDMI 1.3a with Deep Color, xv Colorspace, 1080p compatible, and have support for HD Audio formats.

Given the HDMI issues with the D2v I am still very happy with this purchase. Primary reason being the big improvement in the sound. The video processor for me makes no difference as my display is a 46" sony XBR4 and I can make out no difference on it.

Also I have been using a Harmony One remote for the past couple of weeks and so far have not encountered any HDMI issues. The activities on my Harmony One turn on the sources in a sequence with the D2v coming on the last. This I believe has helped me overcome the HDMI issues in the D2v.

However at this price point anthem still owes its customers a stable unit with no issues whatsoever.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/17182436
> 
> 
> 12 of which is spent getting it to work right, evidently.
> 
> 
> As a D2 owner, I'm still waiting for the "official" firmware update to fix the HDMI issues, and many D2V owners are waiting for needed updates to fix HDMI issues, noises, etc. On pieces of this level, it's my opinion that HDMI ought to work right, and obvious switching noises, etc., are unacceptable. My $2k Denon receiver never has an HDMI issue plugged into exactly the same model DirecTV receiver as my Anthem.
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong..... I really like my D2 (D1HD), but I'm concerned that one of the reasons I left Aragon and went with Anthem were the promises of timely and affordable upgrades, and those are now are seeming being left by the wayside. Now the D2V upgrade has been dropped in lieu of a $4K exchange, and the next version will cost $15K, which is also out of my range, and, I'm guessing, will not be offered as a D2V upgrade.
> 
> 
> I'm not condemning Anthem, far from it........ but I am concerned they are going in a direction I can't follow, IMHO.



My sentiments exactly. I would have liked to upgrade my D1 (with ARC)+DVDO VP50 to a D2V, but two things have prevented me from doing this; the $4+K price tag plus and the outstanding issues reported in this forum. I have no technical problems with my current set up.


Now to hear about a $15K D3 and 18-24 months for the D2V product life concern me a lot.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17182183
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> May I ask what are your speakers? I am a bit puzzled why your speakers are sharply rolling off starting at 140 hertz, this is quite high. Even my rear speakers with 5 1/2 woofers are capable down to 60 hertz.
> 
> 
> Alvin



Alvin:


I'm using Sunfires HRS speaker system with the HRS12 subwoofer(reviewed here http://www.ultimateavmag.com/speaker...sun/index.html and here http://www.hometheatermag.com/compac...tem/index.html ). The satellites are rated and tested down to 100Hz, so I'm also puzzled by ARC dec

ided to roll off at a higher frequency of 140Hz. Also another BIGGER puzzler is that currently, I seem to prefer the non-ARC solution to the current ARC solution







Obviously, I'm doing something wrong and have not a clue as to how to fix it










Is it safe to say that all D2v/AVM50v folks that calibrated their systems with ARC preferred its solution to the non-ARC one?


David


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17180379
> 
> 
> Hi Bob:
> 
> 
> This is my first ARC calibration on my new 5.1 speaker system with the 50v. Your help and comments would be greatly appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David
> 
> 
> BTW...if this helps:
> 
> My fronts and center speakers are about 2 feet from the back wall on stands with the fronts toed in to my listening position. The center now is on top of my RPTV so its higher than the L/R fronts speakers by about 1 ft. Once I get my new plasma and entertainment furniture setup, the center will be within the cabinet and ofcourse lower than the other fronts. The surrounds are flush to the back wall of my couch. Only movement will be the toe-in angle.



Bob...are you available? Kind of need your help when you can







Thanks...


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17183823
> 
> 
> Alvin:
> 
> 
> I'm using Sunfires HRS speaker system with the HRS12 subwoofer(reviewed here http://www.ultimateavmag.com/speaker...sun/index.html and here http://www.hometheatermag.com/compac...tem/index.html ). The satellites are rated and tested down to 100Hz, so I'm also puzzled by ARC dec
> 
> ided to roll off at a higher frequency of 140Hz. Also another BIGGER puzzler is that currently, I seem to prefer the non-ARC solution to the current ARC solution
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Obviously, I'm doing something wrong and have not a clue as to how to fix it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it safe to say that all D2v/AVM50v folks that calibrated their systems with ARC preferred its solution to the non-ARC one?
> 
> 
> David



I think most people have a mains/sub system rather than a satellite sub system. I would imagine satellites more than any other speaker would tend to be very directional. Are they on stands at normal listenning height or on bookshelves? Have you tried speaker placement or toeing them in a little? Are you putting the mic at the same height as your ears would be?


ARC will only work with what it is "hearing" across the various mic positions and is less tolerant (more analytical) I believe than our own hearing. There are a number of things that might effect that in terms of mic position and speaker placement and maybe you need to play with those parameters.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/17184189
> 
> 
> I think most people have a mains/sub system rather than a satellite sub system. I would imagine satellites more than any other speaker would tend to be very directional. Are they on stands at normal listenning height or on bookshelves? Have you tried speaker placement or toeing them in a little? Are you putting the mic at the same height as your ears would be?
> 
> 
> ARC will only work with what it is "hearing" across the various mic positions and is less tolerant (more analytical) I believe than our own hearing. There are a number of things that might effect that in terms of mic position and speaker placement and maybe you need to play with those parameters.



Mike:


The sats are on stands which are ear height level when seated and so is the ARC microphone eduring my testing. The sats are toed-in into my listening position as well. The front sats(L/C/R) are 2 feet from the wall. I haven't yet played around much with the placement as I was hoping for guidance first to point me in the right direction







. I'll begin to play around a bit with the toe-in angle first and then placement...


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/17182436
> 
> 
> 12 of which is spent getting it to work right, evidently.
> 
> 
> As a D2 owner, I'm still waiting for the "official" firmware update to fix the HDMI issues, and many D2V owners are waiting for needed updates to fix HDMI issues, noises, etc. On pieces of this level, it's my opinion that HDMI ought to work right, and obvious switching noises, etc., are unacceptable. My $2k Denon receiver never has an HDMI issue plugged into exactly the same model DirecTV receiver as my Anthem.
> 
> 
> I'm not condemning Anthem, far from it........ but I am concerned they are going in a direction I can't follow, IMHO.



I don't really have significant operational issues with my D2V, but I was anticipating being able to have Dolby Volume based on the advertisements. I'm very surprised not to hear more about that.


As far as a $15K Super HD D3, well I wish Anthem luck with that. It isn't in a price range that I would be interested in.


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malcolmp6* /forum/post/17183450
> 
> 
> +1.
> 
> 
> I had a lowly Yamaha 663, Integra DTR 8.8 and Denon 3808 ci and had no HDMI issues with any of these receivers. All are HDMI 1.3a with Deep Color, xv Colorspace, 1080p compatible, and have support for HD Audio formats.
> 
> Given the HDMI issues with the D2v I am still very happy with this purchase. Primary reason being the big improvement in the sound. The video processor for me makes no difference as my display is a 46" sony XBR4 and I can make out no difference on it.
> 
> Also I have been using a Harmony One remote for the past couple of weeks and so far have not encountered any HDMI issues. The activities on my Harmony One turn on the sources in a sequence with the D2v coming on the last. This I believe has helped me overcome the HDMI issues in the D2v.
> 
> However at this price point anthem still owes its customers a stable unit with no issues whatsoever.



My handshake issues come changing channels on the DVR receiver, so turn on order doesn't come into play. I know the receiver is not to fault, because I swapped it out with the one plugged into the Denon, and the problem remained. Also, the Denon handled both receivers fine.


I read here about folks with both D2's and D2V's with issues with upgrade, pops, hissing, HDMI handshake, etc., and I can't help thinking these should have higher priority than the next model. I don't know what is happening internally with Anthem, but it's making it tough for folks to be repeat customers, if you think your next unit will take over a year to shake out issues, or the next upgrade will be so expensive.


I'd love to stay with Anthem, but the D1HD might be it for me. I can't keep up financially, and needing to load new firmware on a regular basis, not to upgrade the unit, but to make the features you purchased work correctly wears thin.


I love the audio quality, and ARC is great. The rest of the stuff leaves a bad taste in one's mouth, though.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/17185580
> 
> 
> i don't really have significant operational issues with my d2v, but i was anticipating being able to have dolby volume based on the advertisements. I'm very surprised not to hear more about that.
> 
> 
> As far as a $15k super hd d3, well i wish anthem luck with that. It isn't in a price range that i would be interested in.



+1


My sentiments indeed. The absence of Dolby Volume is a big one for me as well. Promised long ago but never delivered. The day-to-day assault of TV commercials is irritating me plenty...And now we are to get excited over a $15K (!) D3







? My 50v will stay in my rack for many a year indeed. Having 8 HDMI inputs and 2 outputs plus the ARC for audio and Gennum for video is plenty enough for now and the foreseable future


----------



## WestCoastD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/17178925
> 
> 
> WE have medical



WE have medical too, just not free


----------



## WestCoastD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *huetamo* /forum/post/17179877
> 
> 
> I think I have a problem with my AVM 50.
> 
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I called Nick at Athem & told him about the popping sound I have when I change inputs on my AVM 50. He sent me a test it came back yes/no. He gave me the OK to install the firmware version V.47F (I had V1.33) to solve the problem. I thought the problem was solved but when I play the blu-ray movie Amadeus the screen goes black, flickers & makes a popping sound for a few seconds & then goes back to normal. Then 2 or 3 minutes later it starts all over again. (the disc is not dirty). I have the same problem with the blu-ray Dark Knight but not as often. On the other hand I don't have any problems with the blu-ray disc Pirates of the Caribbean. My player is Panasonic DMP-BD35 with current firmware. I tested these movies on my other system with the same blu-ray player & Pioneer Elite receiver SC-25 and had no problems



sorry to hear about this behavior. Did you ever experience "popping" behavior when enabling STOP then PLAY commands while watching a BD movie? Or only when you change inputs? When you change inputs, you are referring to switching your AVM-50V from one source to another (your BD player)?


----------



## dmusoke

Has anyone seen Bob for the past 24 hours







?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17186211
> 
> 
> Has anyone seen Bob for the past 24 hours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?



David,


You have a hole between 80 and 140 hertz. The chest thumping sound of the kick drum, I believe is in the 100 to 120 hertz region. I would suggest increasing your sub and sats target to 100 hertz to fill up the hole. ARC will be boosting these frequencies with this intervention. Look at the resulting calculated curves, if the target curve is not far off the calculated curve then you are OK.


Look also at your subs crossover, it should be set to maximum or defeated so that it can cover more ground, maybe up to 120 hertz to fill the hole, accordingly I will then lower the sats crossover to 120 also.


Alvin


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17186211
> 
> 
> Has anyone seen Bob for the past 24 hours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?



You know, Bob has a line at the bottom of his signature:

-- Need personal consultation/training? PM me!


Have you tried that?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17186664
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> 
> You have a hole between 80 and 140 hertz. The chest thumping sound of the kick drum, I believe is in the 100 to 120 hertz region. I would suggest increasing your sub and sats target to 100 hertz to fill up the hole. ARC will be boosting these frequencies with this intervention. Look at the resulting calculated curves, if the target curve is not far off the calculated curve then you are OK.
> 
> 
> Look also at your subs crossover, it should be set to maximum or defeated so that it can cover more ground, maybe up to 120 hertz to fill the hole, accordingly I will then lower the sats crossover to 120 also.
> 
> 
> Alvin



Alvin ...didn't know I could adjust ARC's crossover settings. Will do so. The subwoofer is defeated, though its setting ranges from 30hz to 100Hz once engaged.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17186695
> 
> 
> You know, Bob has a line at the bottom of his signature:
> 
> -- Need personal consultation/training? PM me!
> 
> 
> Have you tried that?



Nooooo...







That costs $$$$


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *huetamo* /forum/post/17179877
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone:
> 
> 
> I think I have a problem with my AVM 50.
> 
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I called Nick at Athem & told him about the popping sound I have when I change inputs on my AVM 50. He sent me a test it came back yes/no. He gave me the OK to install the firmware version V.47F (I had V1.33) to solve the problem. I thought the problem was solved but when I play the blu-ray movie Amadeus the screen goes black, flickers & makes a popping sound for a few seconds & then goes back to normal. Then 2 or 3 minutes later it starts all over again. (the disc is not dirty). I have the same problem with the blu-ray Dark Knight but not as often. On the other hand I don't have any problems with the blu-ray disc Pirates of the Caribbean. My player is Panasonic DMP-BD35 with current firmware. I tested these movies on my other system with the same blu-ray player & Pioneer Elite receiver SC-25 and had no problems.
> 
> 
> So, do you think I'm doing something wrong? I tried it with 24P output on the blu-ray ON & OFF, HDMI resolution auto & 1080p, HDMI digital output PCM and bitstream and the same thing happened. Now I tried the following on the AVM50 resolution 1920x1080p, auto, the data set to auto, Ycbcr, 4:4:4 and 4:2:2, film mode auto & off, color space auto & HDTV, frame lock auto & off the same thing happened. I even sent the video from HDMI and audio from optical. The screen flickers but I don't have any audio popping which makes me think it's a video related problem? I know some of the things I tried are irrelevant but I tried them anyway. Maybe I didn't install the firmware correctly, but when I finished installing it I didn't get any errors.
> 
> 
> I pay attention the the AVM50 display when it's working normal and it displays PCM 1080p. When the problem occurs the display changes to Digital Main. So now I'm even more confused?
> 
> 
> On the Panasonic blu-ray when the picture is normal the display reads chapter & elapse time when the problem occurs it reads HDMI. This happens after the Anthem stops flickering & popping or when the movie is stable. Also when I turn the blu-ray off there is a hissing sound coming from the center speaker, it continues until I change the input on the AVM50. Even when I change the input I get an intermittent hissing.
> 
> 
> When I play a regular DVD in my Sony player the movie looks like its in slight slow motion, it does not appear to be a lip sync problem. Do you think this a related problem, my settings or my imagination?
> 
> 
> As you can tell I am a "Desperado" man looking for input & wisdom from you guys before I call Nick again. I hope I explained this well & sorry for the long post.



For over a year now, I have been experiencing severe screeching out of my left main, surrounds when I switch HDMI sources. Anthem recently asked me to try 1.47f but it did not fix the screeching issue. Additionally, when I switched to my Satellite input, the picture would appear for a split second before going totally black. I have gone back to 1.33.


----------



## huetamo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WestCoastD* /forum/post/17186098
> 
> 
> sorry to hear about this behavior. Did you ever experience "popping" behavior when enabling STOP then PLAY commands while watching a BD movie? Or only when you change inputs? When you change inputs, you are referring to switching your AVM-50V from one source to another (your BD player)?



Hi WestCoastD

Thanks for taking interest in my problem. The popping is there when I press stop and then play in the BD player with BD movie. The Anthem has a hissing noise when I change inputs, but it doesn't happen all the time. Today I switched to BD input & I get picture but no sound. When I switch to another input & back it is fine. I was Amadeus (Blu-ray) today and was able to watch it for 30 minutes with not problems, then it started giving me the same problem I mentioned on my post. What gives?


Thanks again


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17185762
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> 
> My sentiments indeed. The absence of Dolby Volume is a big one for me as well. Promised long ago but never delivered. The day-to-day assault of TV commercials is irritating me plenty...And now we are to get excited over a $15K (!) D3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? My 50v will stay in my rack for many a year indeed. Having 8 HDMI inputs and 2 outputs plus the ARC for audio and Gennum for video is plenty enough for now and the foreseable future



I think so too. Unless I hit a lottery I'm not going to have a screen size or projector to justify Super HD resolutions or more than 7.X audio. It already takes some pretty nice gear to bring out the difference between well upscaled DVD+DD 5.1 and BD+HD audio.


It would take a technical improvement at least as bi and g to DVD->BluRay to get me interested in a processor upgrade. The D2V is very nice and will do until then, thank you.


----------



## huetamo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17186890
> 
> 
> For over a year now, I have been experiencing severe screeching out of my left main, surrounds when I switch HDMI sources. Anthem recently asked me to try 1.47f but it did not fix the screeching issue. Additionally, when I switched to my Satellite input, the picture would appear for a split second before going totally black. I have gone back to 1.33.



Hi blumark ,


Have you had any popping and flickering when playing a blu-ray disc with V1.47f version?


----------



## Justin73




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/17182201
> 
> 
> I understand the product life of the D2V is expected to be 18-24 months.



Hopefully the product life will be longer that 18-24 months! I wonder if Anthem will offer an upgrade as well. What ever happens, I can't wait to see what unfolds. You gotta love technology.


----------



## vengazor

Ok, I finally got a chance to play with all the setup options on my D2v. A few questions.


1.) I haven't run ARC yet because my room doesn't have furniture yet and some other random stuff that may affect room acoustics. Is there a way to adjust the crossover frequency for the fronts (paradigm S6) because they can't handle the bass too well probably below 60 hz. I cannot find out how to do this.


2.) in playing CD's the D2v states that it is outputting sound to all 7.1 channels, but nothing comes out of my center channel on Dolby PL II or DTS Neo 6


3.) I tried watching the Blu Ray of "Taken" and the picture was sooo grainy that i had to change movies, same problem on "Immortal Beloved", are there certain settings i should be changing on my D2v or on my Pioneer 151fd?


4.) Whenever I switch inputs from one hdmi source to another, the audio is not recognized. Video works fine, but i have to recycle the power to get everything to work correctly, is this a common problem? and is there a way to avoid it?


Thanks,

Rich


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> Ok, I finally got a chance to play with all the setup options on my D2v. A few questions.
> 
> 
> 1.) I haven't run ARC yet because my room doesn't have furniture yet and some other random stuff that may affect room acoustics. Is there a way to adjust the crossover frequency for the fronts (paradigm S6) because they can't handle the bass too well probably below 60 hz. I cannot find out how to do this.
> 
> 
> 4.) Whenever I switch inputs from one hdmi source to another, the audio is not recognized. Video works fine, but i have to recycle the power to get everything to work correctly, is this a common problem? and is there a way to avoid it?



Well, I cannot answer all your questions, but you should try to go into the advanced menu and adjust the targets there in the ARC program. I did the reverse thing, since I only have two loudspeakers, full range, so I adjusted the targets down to 25hz, and up from 5000 hz to 20khz.


Regarding the loss of audio, well that is a common problem. If you have 2 hdmi devices on the output, try to remove one of them to see if it solves it. It did the trick for me in some cases. What I did was to remove the power from the projector (it is easily located next to the sofa). The thing is that even if it is shut of/stand by, hdmi still negates the connection between the d2v and the other hdmi device.


Hope this could be of some assistance.


erikno


----------



## erikno

Another experience yesterday regarding the ARC.


I did some slight adjustment on the loudspeakers position, and ran the ARC again. The result was a greatly focused sound with an incredible depth. I did also try it out on a CD with Neil Young, Live at Massey (1971), and the perception of being there was just wonderful.


Acoustics wise, based upon some articles I've read in Norway, I believe that the slightest change of the speakers position, should require another run of the ARC. At least this is the case for me. I sometimes need to pull back the speaker to the wall, in order for make the children play (I know, High Risk Sport..), but that clearly interrupts the ARC measurements.


Another tip I got, which at least was important for my Loudspeakers (Burmester B50) was to tightened all screws (I have a total of 38!). The precision greatly improves.


erikno


----------



## jayray

I received an email from Nick at anthem after mentioning a few things re the rumours.


1. D3 is a long way down the road and *NO* it won't be $15k. He wasn't sure where this came from but it wasn't any of the anthem reps at CEDIA. It won't be $14,999 either










2. As for the Dolby Volume and other issues with the D2v, he said " Of course now we're cleaning up the bugs (at least what we can - DTS-HD is a story in itself) and finalizing Dolby Volume before moving to other things."


Hope this helps with some of the fears raised in the last couple of days.

John


He also said the Anthem booth was packed for the three days.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17189200
> 
> 
> 
> 1. D3 is a long way down the road and *NO* it won't be $15k. He wasn't sure where this came from but it wasn't any of the anthem reps at CEDIA. It won't be $14,999 either



Yeah, someone told me it would be more like $19K so thats probably true.


He also sold me the numbers for fridays Lottery draw, so I don't really care what the price will be.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This is the problem with rumors. They are often wrong.


As of today, there are NO other reports surfacing about an upcoming D3.


-------------------------------------------


Here are a couple reports with better photos of the Anthem BLX 200 Blu-Ray player announced at CEDIA:

http://www.soundstage2.com/avtour2009/ced_dly01.html 

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums...d.php?p=623564 


Click on the thumbnail photo in the second link for the full sized picture. The Audioholics report claims that this player is a new, in-house design rather than a re-badge or clone. I'd be very surprised if that turns out to be true.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17190069
> 
> 
> This is the problem with rumors. They are often wrong.
> 
> 
> As of today, there are NO other reports surfacing about an upcoming D3.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Here are a couple reports with better photos of the Anthem BLX 200 Blu-Ray player announced at CEDIA:
> 
> http://www.soundstage2.com/avtour2009/ced_dly01.html
> 
> http://forums.audioholics.com/forums...d.php?p=623564
> 
> 
> Click on the thumbnail photo in the second link for the full sized picture. The Audioholics report claims that this player is a new, in-house design rather than a re-badge or clone. I'd be very surprised if that turns out to be true.
> 
> --Bob



The player is not in-house.This is direct from Nick.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Perhaps even more surprising is I've found no follow up articles at all on the reports that Anthem will introduce receivers (processors with built-in amps) in the under $3000 range by year end.


However I did get a chuckle that CE Pro is trying to stir up controversy on whether their CEDIA judges screwed up in not picking the D2v for one of the 30 "best new product" awards:

http://www.cepro.com/article/did_ced...t_winners/K297 


--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17189200
> 
> 
> I received an email from Nick at anthem after mentioning a few things re the rumours.
> 
> 
> 1. D3 is a long way down the road and *NO* it won't be $15k. He wasn't sure where this came from but it wasn't any of the anthem reps at CEDIA. It won't be $14,999 either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. As for the Dolby Volume and other issues with the D2v, he said " Of course now we're cleaning up the bugs (at least what we can - DTS-HD is a story in itself) and finalizing Dolby Volume before moving to other things."
> 
> 
> Hope this helps with some of the fears raised in the last couple of days.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> He also said the Anthem booth was packed for the three days.



Thanks jayray for this info, though I have no interest in the D3, the Dolby Volume is the most important feature to me, very very happy with the performance of my D2v short of that feature and I'm still on the 2.04 firmware with no issues, so I'm waiting to upgrade that when the Dolby Volume comes out...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17188371
> 
> 
> Another experience yesterday regarding the ARC.
> 
> 
> I did some slight adjustment on the loudspeakers position, and ran the ARC again. The result was a greatly focused sound with an incredible depth. I did also try it out on a CD with Neil Young, Live at Massey (1971), and the perception of being there was just wonderful.
> 
> 
> Acoustics wise, based upon some articles I've read in Norway, I believe that the slightest change of the speakers position, should require another run of the ARC. At least this is the case for me. I sometimes need to pull back the speaker to the wall, in order for make the children play (I know, High Risk Sport..), but that clearly interrupts the ARC measurements.
> 
> 
> Another tip I got, which at least was important for my Loudspeakers (Burmester B50) was to tightened all screws (I have a total of 38!). The precision greatly improves.
> 
> 
> erikno



Yes, the coupling of speakers to the room is quite sensitive to speaker positioning and pointing, and treble directionality is quite sensitive to speaker pointing. Positioning is sensitive to the inch.


But there's no need to get fanatic about this. If you need to move the speakers, put markers down so that you can restore the speakers to the same location and pointing angle. Painter's masking tape (the kind that doesn't leave a sticky residue on the floor/carpet) works well.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17190181
> 
> 
> Perhaps even more surprising is I've found no follow up articles at all on the reports that Anthem will introduce receivers (processors with built-in amps) in the under $3000 range by year end.
> 
> 
> However I did get a chuckle that CE Pro is trying to stir up controversy on whether their CEDIA judges screwed up in not picking the D2v for one of the 30 "best new product" awards:
> 
> http://www.cepro.com/article/did_ced...t_winners/K297
> 
> 
> --Bob



Nick said perhaps in a year a receiver may be possible. I'm sure the dealers would love this.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17187879
> 
> 
> Ok, I finally got a chance to play with all the setup options on my D2v. A few questions.
> 
> 
> 1.) I haven't run ARC yet because my room doesn't have furniture yet and some other random stuff that may affect room acoustics. Is there a way to adjust the crossover frequency for the fronts (paradigm S6) because they can't handle the bass too well probably below 60 hz. I cannot find out how to do this.
> 
> 
> 2.) in playing CD's the D2v states that it is outputting sound to all 7.1 channels, but nothing comes out of my center channel on Dolby PL II or DTS Neo 6
> 
> 
> 3.) I tried watching the Blu Ray of "Taken" and the picture was sooo grainy that i had to change movies, same problem on "Immortal Beloved", are there certain settings i should be changing on my D2v or on my Pioneer 151fd?
> 
> 
> 4.) Whenever I switch inputs from one hdmi source to another, the audio is not recognized. Video works fine, but i have to recycle the power to get everything to work correctly, is this a common problem? and is there a way to avoid it?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Rich



1) Sure. For a manual speaker setup, in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie/Music turn the Advanced Settings ON at the top of the list and you'll then have the chance to set different crossover values for each speaker pair. Once you start using ARC be aware that it Uploads settings into Speaker Configuration and you should NOT fiddle with those afterwards. Any adjustments need to be made in the ARC application or you will break the solution ARC has Uploaded for you.


2) Start by using the Setup > Level Calibration test tones to make sure your Center speaker is producing output at all. If the amp for the Center speaker is turned on by a D2v Trigger, make sure the Trigger table has that Trigger active when using the CD source. Keep in mind that both PLII-Music and DTS Neo:6 have an adjustable parameter for how much Center channel output is generated from stereo input. You view the parameters by pressing Mode more than once and adjust with the arrow keys. See Section 4.8.7 in the Manual for more info.


3) Check out the collection of tutorial and reference post links you'll find in the first post of this thread. Start with "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs". That post will walk you through the basics of setting up your video sources, display, and the D2v itself. "Grainy" video often simply means you have the video settings incorrect. Keep in mind that the factory default settings in most displays, even expensive displays, are flat out wrong for correct viewing. They are deliberately set to be eye-catching in garish store lighting. Also be aware that some films have natural "film grain" and a well setup system will accurately reproduce the film grain the director intended you to see.


4) Depending on the details of the devices you are using and the audio formats you are switching between, this may be a bug in the "official" V2.07 firmware that is fixed in the "test" V2.07f firmware. Typically an easier workaround is to switch the D2v to a different input and back rather than power-cycling. In fact, one of the more annoying bugs in "official" V2.07 is lack of audio on power up until you switch to a different source and back, so power-cycling should not be your first choice of workaround. If you have an easily repeatable case of failure here, please do write up the details and email to Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## NOCAL

Is it wise to run ARC again if I change amps...especially if I am going from a SS to a Tube?

Eric


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17180379
> 
> 
> Hi Bob:
> 
> 
> This is my first ARC calibration on my new 5.1 speaker system with the 50v. Your help and comments would be greatly appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David
> 
> 
> BTW...if this helps:
> 
> My fronts and center speakers are about 2 feet from the back wall on stands with the fronts toed in to my listening position. The center now is on top of my RPTV so its higher than the L/R fronts speakers by about 1 ft. Once I get my new plasma and entertainment furniture setup, the center will be within the cabinet and ofcourse lower than the other fronts. The surrounds are flush to the back wall of my couch. Only movement will be the toe-in angle.



David,

I think there is a high probability that something is screwed up in all of your main speakers. They are either wired incorrectly or configured incorrectly. The bass output from all of them is anemic.


We know it is not a problem with the ARC mic or measurement environment since the Measured curve for your subwoofer shows good values.


Check the wiring first. I'm assuming each speaker is individually wired to an amp output channel -- that is you are not using "combo speaker" wiring where the subs are wired to the speakers or the speakers are wired to the subs. If I'm wrong in that, let me know as it changes how you need to use ARC.


Some speakers have multiple wiring binding posts -- one pair for bass and another pair for higher frequencies. BOTH sets of posts need to be wired. This is usually done by cross connecting the two sets of posts at the back of the speaker so that you only have to run one wire to each speaker.


Check for bass configuration options on your speakers -- a bass port that needs to be opened for example.


-------------------------------------------


Now check that the woofers are operating properly in all of your speakers:


Select your CD Source, go into Setup > Source Setup and temporarily turn Room EQ OFF (i.e., turn off the ARC processing). Go into Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie or Music (whichever you are using for your CD Source), temporarily turn OFF Advanced Settings at the top of the list and temporarily change all your speakers to Large.


Now play a CD with bass content. Select Stereo ALL audio mode using the Mode key and the Up/Down arrows. Now go put your ear up to the bass driver element (woofer) in each speaker in turn and make sure it is actually producing output. NOTE: The subwoofer will be silent since there is no LFE content in CD music, and you just changed all your main speakers to Large.


When you are done, return the Speaker Configuration back to Advanced Settings ON and return the Source Setup for CD back to Room EQ ON.


---------------------------------------------


Before running ARC setup again, also check that you have disabled the internal crossover in your subwoofer. It looks like it might be active and set around 80Hz. Sometimes you bypass this with a switch, sometimes by using a different input jack. If you can't bypass it altogether, crank it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. The Anthem will do all the crossover processing, so you don't want the sub trying to do it as well.


----------------------------------------------


Keep in mind that whatever is going on in your main speakers, it is affecting ALL of them. So look for some common mistake that's been made in the setup for all of them.


Until we can figure out what's wrong with the bass output from all of your main speakers, we won't have much luck with ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NOCAL* /forum/post/17190382
> 
> 
> Is it wise to run ARC again if I change amps...especially if I am going from a SS to a Tube?
> 
> Eric



I certainly would. The difference between amps typically won't be as great as the difference between speakers, but particularly at the very high and very low frequencies, if your speakers are good, an amp change may make a significant difference that ARC will pick up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *huetamo* /forum/post/17179877
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone:
> 
> 
> I think I have a problem with my AVM 50.
> 
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I called Nick at Athem & told him about the popping sound I have when I change inputs on my AVM 50. He sent me a test it came back yes/no. He gave me the OK to install the firmware version V.47F (I had V1.33) to solve the problem. I thought the problem was solved but when I play the blu-ray movie Amadeus the screen goes black, flickers & makes a popping sound for a few seconds & then goes back to normal. Then 2 or 3 minutes later it starts all over again. (the disc is not dirty). I have the same problem with the blu-ray Dark Knight but not as often. On the other hand I don't have any problems with the blu-ray disc Pirates of the Caribbean. My player is Panasonic DMP-BD35 with current firmware. I tested these movies on my other system with the same blu-ray player & Pioneer Elite receiver SC-25 and had no problems.
> 
> 
> So, do you think I'm doing something wrong? I tried it with 24P output on the blu-ray ON & OFF, HDMI resolution auto & 1080p, HDMI digital output PCM and bitstream and the same thing happened. Now I tried the following on the AVM50 resolution 1920x1080p, auto, the data set to auto, Ycbcr, 4:4:4 and 4:2:2, film mode auto & off, color space auto & HDTV, frame lock auto & off the same thing happened. I even sent the video from HDMI and audio from optical. The screen flickers but I don't have any audio popping which makes me think it's a video related problem? I know some of the things I tried are irrelevant but I tried them anyway. Maybe I didn't install the firmware correctly, but when I finished installing it I didn't get any errors.
> 
> 
> I pay attention the the AVM50 display when it's working normal and it displays PCM 1080p. When the problem occurs the display changes to Digital Main. So now I'm even more confused?
> 
> 
> On the Panasonic blu-ray when the picture is normal the display reads chapter & elapse time when the problem occurs it reads HDMI. This happens after the Anthem stops flickering & popping or when the movie is stable. Also when I turn the blu-ray off there is a hissing sound coming from the center speaker, it continues until I change the input on the AVM50. Even when I change the input I get an intermittent hissing.
> 
> 
> When I play a regular DVD in my Sony player the movie looks like its in slight slow motion, it does not appear to be a lip sync problem. Do you think this a related problem, my settings or my imagination?
> 
> 
> As you can tell I am a "Desperado" man looking for input & wisdom from you guys before I call Nick again. I hope I explained this well & sorry for the long post.



You appear to be having an HDMI handshaking problem. The AVM 50 display is changing to "Digital" and the player display is changing to "HDMI" because the HDMI connection has broken down and the player is trying to re-establish it.


Since HDMI is an end to end protocol, the problem could be either the connection from player to AVM 50 or from AVM 50 to display.


Of course there could be a problem in the HDMI hardware in one of the three devices, but by far the most likely scenario here is that you have a cabling problem.


First, I want to make sure you are using no HDMI adapters, splitters, switches or the like on either side of the Anthem? There should just be an HDMI cable between the player and the Anthem and another between the Anthem and the display. No wall adapters? No daisy-chained cables? If you are using any of that, try again without them in the signal path.


Next try temporarily setting the output of the player to HDMI 408p, and the output of the AVM 50 to HDMI 480p. 480p (not 480i) is the "simplest" resolution for HDMI to handle.


If that seems to work, then next try HDMI 1080i. Again you need to do this both for input and output video. If 1080i works and 1080p doesn't work then that is a pretty strong indication of a cabling problem.


HDMI plugs are just a friction fit. It only takes a slight shift in plug/socket to make the connection marginal. The weight of the cable could do that. Or it is possible that the pins were not properly aligned to begin with and the cables have now shifted or the pins corroded to the point where it is making a difference.


So try some new cables. Get cables labeled for HDMI V1.3 "high speed", or "for 1080p", or "category 2". All these mean the same thing -- that the cable has been subjected to the strictest of the HDMI design/testing specs.


----------------------------------------------


If the problem persists at HDMI 1080i or even worse at 480p then that suggests a fault in HDMI in one of the 3 devices. Usually this is firmware but sometimes hardware.


The HDMI input in the AVM 50 uses 2 chips. One of them handles input sockets 1/2, the other 3/4. Try switching to a socket that uses the "other" chip.


-----------------------------------------------


Rarely, HDMI cabling gets affected by "ground loops". A ground loop is electrical garbage that gets into your system from some source, travels around from device to device via the shields of the cables connecting them, and eventually exits back to ground to complete the circuit. Most commonly it gets back to ground through the 3rd pin of a 3-pin power plug. The single most common source of ground loop garbage is a cable/satellite feed wire that has not been properly grounded where it enters your house.


The most common symptoms of "ground loop" problems are a hum from any speakers (particularly the subwoofer) or horizontal interference lines that scroll slowly up the screen on your display. If you have either of these then you definitely want to fix your ground loop. If you have recently added a device to your setup with a 3 prong plug -- even if it is not turned on when you are having this problem -- then that may explain why it is happening now. NOTE: That device is not the source of the problem -- it is merely providing the final step in the signal path to complete the ground loop circuit.


Also, whenever you suspect a ground loop, one of the first things to try is to disconnect the cable/satellite feed wire coming out of the wall. If the problem goes away, then that's your source. Note that garbage coming in this way can interfere even when you are NOT watching cable/satellite TV.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17190497
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> I think there is a high probability that something is screwed up in all of your main speakers. They are either wired incorrectly or configured incorrectly. The bass output from all of them is anemic.
> 
> 
> Until we can figure out what's wrong with the bass output from all of your main speakers, we won't have much luck with ARC.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Thanks for your input. Will check my connections again and re-run suggested tests.


Thanks again,

David


----------



## vengazor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17190350
> 
> 
> 1) Sure. For a manual speaker setup, in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie/Music turn the Advanced Settings ON at the top of the list and you'll then have the chance to set different crossover values for each speaker pair. Once you start using ARC be aware that it Uploads settings into Speaker Configuration and you should NOT fiddle with those afterwards. Any adjustments need to be made in the ARC application or you will break the solution ARC has Uploaded for you.
> 
> *Perfect, Thanks*
> 
> 
> 2) Start by using the Setup > Level Calibration test tones to make sure your Center speaker is producing output at all. If the amp for the Center speaker is turned on by a D2v Trigger, make sure the Trigger table has that Trigger active when using the CD source. Keep in mind that both PLII-Music and DTS Neo:6 have an adjustable parameter for how much Center channel output is generated from stereo input. You view the parameters by pressing Mode more than once and adjust with the arrow keys. See Section 4.8.7 in the Manual for more info.
> 
> Center works fine on movies/D*tv, amp is not on a trigger, i will try your recommendations. This problem also exists on 5.1 sacd analog inputs from my denon 5910ci. The output display on the d2v shows that it is outputting sound to all 7.1 channels
> 
> 
> 3) Check out the collection of tutorial and reference post links you'll find in the first post of this thread. Start with "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs". That post will walk you through the basics of setting up your video sources, display, and the D2v itself. "Grainy" video often simply means you have the video settings incorrect. Keep in mind that the factory default settings in most displays, even expensive displays, are flat out wrong for correct viewing. They are deliberately set to be eye-catching in garish store lighting. Also be aware that some films have natural "film grain" and a well setup system will accurately reproduce the film grain the director intended you to see.
> 
> Perfect, thanks
> 
> 
> 4) Depending on the details of the devices you are using and the audio formats you are switching between, this may be a bug in the "official" V2.07 firmware that is fixed in the "test" V2.07f firmware. Typically an easier workaround is to switch the D2v to a different input and back rather than power-cycling. In fact, one of the more annoying bugs in "official" V2.07 is lack of audio on power up until you switch to a different source and back, so power-cycling should not be your first choice of workaround. If you have an easily repeatable case of failure here, please do write up the details and email to Anthem tech support.
> 
> I have tried simply switching inputs and it did not work, the only remedy is cycling the d2v power
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, see my comments above


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17190793
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks for your input. Will check my connections again and re-run suggested tests.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> David



Looking at the charts in the two review articles you cited, it appears your speakers may simply be weak in bass by design.


That makes it even more important that you get the sub's internal crossover out of the way so ARC can use it higher up to fill in the gap.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17190910
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, see my comments above



There is probably something simple we are overlooking on your Center channel issue, but it's not obvious to me.


When using the multi-channel analog inputs from your SACD player, have you re-checked that the player has a Center channel configured for output?


Have you double checked your wiring to make sure you are using the Center 1 output from then Anthem and not Center 2?

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

Slightly OT....


I recently upgraded my PS3 (used as my blu ray player) to V3.0 and ever since I have been getting issues with playback that appear to be handshake related. The PJ drops out and doesn't re-establish itself until I power cycle the D2V. Last night it dropped out then I got garbled audio as well. No other cable changes involved.


Anybody else having or heard of PS3 issues with the new version?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/17191189
> 
> 
> Slightly OT....
> 
> 
> I recently upgraded my PS3 (used as my blu ray player) to V3.0 and ever since I have been getting issues with playback that appear to be handshake related. The PJ drops out and doesn't re-establish itself until I power cycle the D2V. Last night it dropped out then I got garbled audio as well. No other cable changes involved.
> 
> 
> Anybody else having or heard of PS3 issues with the new version?



Not related to the new version of the PS3 software, but I DID have some fairly rare issues like that when using "official" V2.07 with the older PS3 software.


I'm using D2v "test" V2.07f with PS3 V3.0 now -- mainly for comparison testing as part of my Oppo beta test work -- and have noticed only that the PS3 is perhaps the slowest of my HDMI devices to complete the HDMI handshake. But it seems to get there, and I've noticed no problems during playback afterwards. Part of the slowness in the PS3 handshaking is that it switches between RGB and YCbCr when moving between the XMB user interface and disc playback.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/17191189
> 
> 
> Slightly OT....
> 
> 
> I recently upgraded my PS3 (used as my blu ray player) to V3.0 and ever since I have been getting issues with playback that appear to be handshake related. The PJ drops out and doesn't re-establish itself until I power cycle the D2V. Last night it dropped out then I got garbled audio as well. No other cable changes involved.
> 
> 
> Anybody else having or heard of PS3 issues with the new version?



Their is a new up date 3.01 try that.


----------



## lk100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/17191189
> 
> 
> Slightly OT....
> 
> 
> I recently upgraded my PS3 (used as my blu ray player) to V3.0 and ever since I have been getting issues with playback that appear to be handshake related. The PJ drops out and doesn't re-establish itself until I power cycle the D2V. Last night it dropped out then I got garbled audio as well. No other cable changes involved.
> 
> 
> Anybody else having or heard of PS3 issues with the new version?



I have been running with 3.0, and now 3.01 with no issues with blu-rays played on my 60 gb launch PS3. I have the PS3 refresh rate set on auto, which for most material, sends the output at 1080p 24hz refresh rate to my projector which displays at 24hz. My only real issue with the D2V/PS3 combo is with Frame Lock. I can not get the D2V output to synchronize with the source. So the only way to properly display 60 hz blu-rays is to use a alternate video out config set to 60 hz. Frame Lock also doesn't work with 480i standard definition disks from another DVD player nor with anything from Comcast cable. Also, when the lock fails to sync, the auto setting in the D2V resets to Off. I mainly would be happy if the lock would work for blu-rays. Then the made for TV and extra content would automatically display without the jitters.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The only change in PS3 V3.01 is supposed to be for game play, but who knows?


------------------------------------------


Reverse telecine for 480i and 1080i content is still a work in progress, but Frame Lock to select between 1080p/60 and 1080p/24 WITHOUT also doing reverse telecine should be working for Blu-Ray content.


Set your Video Output to 1080p/24 and set Frame Lock to auto. Set your player to output 1080p/24 to the D2v when playing film based Blu-Ray content and 1080p/60 otherwise. Most players should have an Auto setting that does this.


Frame Lock will switch the D2v output to 1080p/60 when it sees the 1080p/60 input.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

Thanks all, I've moved to V3.01 on the PS3 so will see tonight how stable it is.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17190995
> 
> 
> Looking at the charts in the two review articles you cited, it appears your speakers may simply be weak in bass by design.
> 
> 
> That makes it even more important that you get the sub's internal crossover out of the way so ARC can use it higher up to fill in the gap.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, the two review charts and David's results are almost identical, they start to roll off at 140 and the sub high end roll off at 80 hertz, the resulting combined response between 80 and 140 might be around -3dB but what about the room gain of 3.9, there is no way the system can reproduce that level at those frequencies. This might explain why there is a possible lack of bass with the system.


With no intention of being critical, another major problem of the sats are their response between 1 and 3khz. The dip is out of range for ARC to correct fully.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *huetamo* /forum/post/17187311
> 
> 
> Hi blumark ,
> 
> 
> Have you had any popping and flickering when playing a blu-ray disc with V1.47f version?



I did not leave 1.47f installed long enough to find out due to the other issues encountered.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17193017
> 
> 
> Yes, the two review charts and David's results are almost identical, they start to roll off at 140 and the sub high end roll off at 80 hertz, the resulting combined response between 80 and 140 might be around -3dB but what about the room gain of 3.9, there is no way the system can reproduce that level at those frequencies. This might explain why there is a possible lack of bass with the system.
> 
> 
> With no intention of being critical, another major problem of the sats is their response between 1 and 3khz. The dip is out of range for ARC to correct fully.



abc999:


Thanks for your comments and interest in my case. It seems that the dip between 1-3KHz is intentional by design from the manufacturer. When ARC attempts to compensate for this dip, the whole tonality of the sound changes, imaging collapses and becomes recessed. Female voices aren't as clear anymore. I guess this dip was to emphasize the higher frequencies important for human speech? So I'll just attempt to correct for frequencies under 1.5 Khz and see how that goes











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17190995
> 
> 
> Looking at the charts in the two review articles you cited, it appears your speakers may simply be weak in bass by design.
> 
> 
> That makes it even more important that you get the sub's internal crossover out of the way so ARC can use it higher up to fill in the gap.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I checked the speaker connections and the polarities are correct to the amplifier. I use the balanced outputs of the AVM50v to my amplifier XLR inputs (Sunfire TGA 7401). The Subwoofer has a short XLR to RCA cable attached to its inputs. I realize the sats are weak in bass and was hoping the subwoofer would compensate for this weakness. I also checked the sub crossover and it is completely bypassed on the sub itself (as far as i can tell). I'll continue on with the resy of the tests you earlier suggested.


If I tell ARC to compensate my speakers to 20KHz, the sound becomes jarring and unnatural to my ears, as though I have a phasing problem in my system. As my fronts are 2ft from the wall, I tried having the L/R fronts smack to the wall versus the current 2ft spacing they are placed at. The only difference from ARC was to change the suggested crossover from 140Hz (2 ft) to 130Hz (smack back to the wall). Any further tips you may have to try would be helpful. If i reduce the room gain to about 1 dB, I get a flatter frequency response below 1 KHz, but my sub peak response is also reduced from 75+ dB to about 70dB. I could compensate this by increasing the sub input gain on the sub itself if necessary. Would this be helpful?


Thanks,

David


BTW... what range of frequecies are critical for voice and instrumental placement and imaging?


----------



## vengazor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17191078
> 
> 
> There is probably something simple we are overlooking on your Center channel issue, but it's not obvious to me.
> 
> 
> When using the multi-channel analog inputs from your SACD player, have you re-checked that the player has a Center channel configured for output?
> 
> 
> Have you double checked your wiring to make sure you are using the Center 1 output from then Anthem and not Center 2?
> 
> --Bob



I went through everything again last night. First, for multi channel analog inputs on the D2v there is only 1 center possible, so that was not the issue. I went through all test tones and the center worked fine, (wasn't worried about this because the center works fine for D*tv, DVD, and Blu Ray)


On my Denon 5910ci, the player was set to output audio over hdmi, even though the website claims that it can only pass video through hdmi, so I incorrectly assumed that it would default to analog outputs or spdif/coax digital outputs. After changing this configuration, SACD was better. SACD playback was in all channels, (no vocals on the center though) although regular cd playback was still missing the center.


I could not find out where to set the levels for center channel in the anthem's dsp programs.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17166074
> 
> 
> I was deciding between the exact same units and chose the D2v. As a note the DHC 9.9 is going to be replaced by the 40.1 and 70.1 (I think those are the numbers) in the next two months. the receiver versions from Onkyo of these new mdl numbers have been released in Europe.



Which will kill the resale value of the DHC9.9.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17195291
> 
> 
> I went through everything again last night. First, for multi channel analog inputs on the D2v there is only 1 center possible, so that was not the issue. I went through all test tones and the center worked fine, (wasn't worried about this because the center works fine for D*tv, DVD, and Blu Ray)
> 
> 
> On my Denon 5910ci, the player was set to output audio over hdmi, even though the website claims that it can only pass video through hdmi, so I incorrectly assumed that it would default to analog outputs or spdif/coax digital outputs. After changing this configuration, SACD was better. SACD playback was in all channels, (no vocals on the center though) although regular cd playback was still missing the center.
> 
> 
> I could not find out where to set the levels for center channel in the anthem's dsp programs.



It's not a level setting as such, but rather a control about how much of the 2 channel audio gets steered into Center.


See the chart in Section 4.8.7 of the Manual. For example, for PLIIx-Music it is called "Center Width" and you view it by pressing the Mode button twice while PLIIx-Music is active. You change it with the arrow buttons.


Another thing that's useful to do is to make sure you haven't accidentally changed any of the "temporary" level settings with the remote -- see Section 4.6 of the Manual. These are remembered separately so it can be a bit confusing if you set one and then forget what you were doing when you set it.


To clear ALL of the "temporary" settings at once, go into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video at this point continue using the Front Panel display

3) Reload Saved User Settings


The "temporary" settings are not saved, so this resets all of them.


Are you using analog audio input for your CD player? Keep in mind that the surround modes (such as PLIIx-Movie or -Music) are part of the digital processing in the Anthem. That means they can only function for analog audio inputs which are set to ANALOG-DSP in Setup > Source Setup for that input. ANALOG-DIRECT bypasses all digital processing, including, surround modes and ARC.


By the way, you will also want ANALOG-DSP for your SACD multi-channel analog input so that ARC will be applied to it.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NOCAL* /forum/post/17190382
> 
> 
> Is it wise to run ARC again if I change amps...especially if I am going from a SS to a Tube?
> 
> Eric



It is a must.


In fact anything you change in the setup and in the room (like moving a table or a sofa) should lead to rerun ARC.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17193583
> 
> 
> abc999:
> 
> 
> Thanks for your comments and interest in my case. It seems that the dip between 1-3KHz is intentional by design from the manufacturer. When ARC attempts to compensate for this dip, the whole tonality of the sound changes, imaging collapses and becomes recessed. Female voices aren't as clear anymore. I guess this dip was to emphasize the higher frequencies important for human speech? So I'll just attempt to correct for frequencies under 1.5 Khz and see how that goes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I checked the speaker connections and the polarities are correct to the amplifier. I use the balanced outputs of the AVM50v to my amplifier XLR inputs (Sunfire TGA 7401). The Subwoofer has a short XLR to RCA cable attached to its inputs. I realize the sats are weak in bass and was hoping the subwoofer would compensate for this weakness. I also checked the sub crossover and it is completely bypassed on the sub itself (as far as i can tell). I'll continue on with the resy of the tests you earlier suggested.
> 
> 
> If I tell ARC to compensate my speakers to 20KHz, the sound becomes jarring and unnatural to my ears, as though I have a phasing problem in my system. As my fronts are 2ft from the wall, I tried having the L/R fronts smack to the wall versus the current 2ft spacing they are placed at. The only difference from ARC was to change the suggested crossover from 140Hz (2 ft) to 130Hz (smack back to the wall). Any further tips you may have to try would be helpful. If i reduce the room gain to about 1 dB, I get a flatter frequency response below 1 KHz, but my sub peak response is also reduced from 75+ dB to about 70dB. I could compensate this by increasing the sub input gain on the sub itself if necessary. Would this be helpful?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David
> 
> 
> BTW... what range of frequecies are critical for voice and instrumental placement and imaging?



I suggest you return ARC to the default 5KHz setting for Max EQ Frequency until you get the bass side of things sorted out.


Make sure you are following the instructions for mic placement during ARC Measurement. In particular that the mic is pointed straight up and placed at seated ear height. Getting the height wrong will mostly screw up the higher frequencies. You can also get high frequency problems if your speakers are very directional at higher frequencies. ARC can mistake directionality problems for room response characteristics. This is why the default is set at 5KHz. So set that up first, and when that seems to be working well, re-calculate higher and see if you like the sound better. If not, bring it back towards 5KHz.


Also make sure no two mic positions, whether or not sequential, are closer than 24 inches apart.


Do not fiddle with the speaker volumes or subwoofer volume AFTER ARC has been set up as that will break the ARC solution.


Go ahead and post your latest charts and Targets and lets see where you are now.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Yes, Jayray

Being a dealer I am thrilled at the prospect of Anthem recievers. It will open high quality performance to a whole new level of clients.

Word is a $1K model due in first Q, followed by a $2K and $3K units later.

I am a happy camper!

TJG


----------



## vengazor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17197029
> 
> 
> Another thing that's useful to do is to make sure you haven't accidentally changed any of the "temporary" level settings with the remote -- see Section 4.6 of the Manual. These are remembered separately so it can be a bit confusing if you set one and then forget what you were doing when you set it.
> 
> 
> To clear ALL of the "temporary" settings at once, go into Setup and:
> 
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 
> 2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video at this point continue using the Front Panel display
> 
> 3) Reload Saved User Settings
> 
> 
> The "temporary" settings are not saved, so this resets all of them.
> 
> *This may be the cause, i will check it out tonight*
> 
> 
> Are you using analog audio input for your CD player? Keep in mind that the surround modes (such as PLIIx-Movie or -Music) are part of the digital processing in the Anthem. That means they can only function for analog audio inputs which are set to ANALOG-DSP in Setup > Source Setup for that input. ANALOG-DIRECT bypasses all digital processing, including, surround modes and ARC.
> 
> 
> By the way, you will also want ANALOG-DSP for your SACD multi-channel analog input so that ARC will be applied to it.
> 
> 
> --Bob


*I do have analog dsp set, I want Arc in full control once its setup. Do you think its better to use a digital connection instead? I've used analog outs for a while and haven't experimented with spdif/coax yet because if it ain't broke . . .*


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes I recommend using the S/PDIF connections instead of analog -- or HDMI if you are playing CDs using a video player.


If you use analog output from the player you are converting the digital data off the disc to analog twice -- once in the player and again after processing in the Anthem. That's another place for quality issues to show up.


---------------------------------------


If the suggestions above don't get your Center channel back for CD analog input processed via PLIIx-Music, I think you ought to give Anthem tech support a call. I still think it is something simple we are overlooking, but I've run out of ideas.

--Bob


----------



## lk100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17192468
> 
> 
> The only change in PS3 V3.01 is supposed to be for game play, but who knows?
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Reverse telecine for 480i and 1080i content is still a work in progress, but Frame Lock to select between 1080p/60 and 1080p/24 WITHOUT also doing reverse telecine should be working for Blu-Ray content.
> 
> 
> Set your Video Output to 1080p/24 and set Frame Lock to auto. Set your player to output 1080p/24 to the D2v when playing film based Blu-Ray content and 1080p/60 otherwise. Most players should have an Auto setting that does this.
> 
> 
> Frame Lock will switch the D2v output to 1080p/60 when it sees the 1080p/60 input.
> 
> 
> --Bob



As I recall, it all began when viewing the Blu-Ray of the BBC production of the original mini series Pride and Prejudice, and later the Bleak House. My PS3 was set to auto and sending 1080p/60 to the D2V. My D2V video config was 1080p/24. There was lots of jitter on motion scenes. So since I had just updated to firmware 2.07, which I believe impemented the Frame Lock feature, I set Frame Lock to auto. The result was a long complicated handshake and the D2V still sending 1080p/24 to my projector and the same jitter. Also, the D2V reset the Frame Lock back to off. I eventually gave up and used a different video output config set to 1080p/60 (Frame Lock set to off). That worked. I also played around with the lock with standard definition DVDs over component at 480i from a Sony DVD player, and 480i/1080i component from Comcast Cable. The 1080p/24 D2V output was always full of jitter. So I gave up on it and now use the video output config to change between 24hz and 60hz.

Also, another issue I noticed is when playing SACDs from the PS3 at 176 sample rate with projector in stand-by. There seems to be momentary audio drop outs at least a couple of times during playback. This does not occur with the projector on. Almost like the D2V is periodically attempting a handshake to the stand-by projector. It looks like HDMI works best when both the audio and video are active?


----------



## dmusoke

Bob, thanks for the advice. I'm sorry for the slow response as I am boucing in and out of interesting conference meetings in my area which are scheduled day and night. In bewteen, like now, I'm waiting for the delivery of my brand new Pioneer KURO PRO-151FD plasma any time now







. This will replace my current RPTV which has the center speaker on top of it, about 2 feet above my head. The center speaker will now be within my new entertainment cabinet (lower than the fronts by about 2 feet but placed at upper chest level). Once all is done, then I'll go back to basics and re-start the whole ARC calibration with the default 5 KHz comp limit per your suggestions and post results promptly.


Thanks again for your advice. It's really been helpful










David


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/17197118
> 
> 
> Yes, Jayray
> 
> Being a dealer I am thrilled at the prospect of Anthem recievers. It will open high quality performance to a whole new level of clients.
> 
> Word is a $1K model due in first Q, followed by a $2K and $3K units later.
> 
> I am a happy camper!
> 
> TJG



I already have several friends lined up for one. Nick mentioned a year. Hopefully sooner.

John


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17193583
> 
> 
> BTW... what range of frequecies are critical for voice and instrumental placement and imaging?



Very roughly - 1KHz to 10 KHz. Below that is fundamentals, above that is high harmonics that add character and 'air.'


Of course, all the harmonics can help in imaging - but the range from 1 - 10K is critical.


BTW, I question why your speakers would have a built-in frequency dip. That ends up taking the perfect mix created by the sound mixer and effectively re-equalizes it. On a quality recording you should be able to hear everything - assuming you have a full-range and (relatively) flat system AND room.


ARC is intended to reduce or eliminate dips or peaks in your room and (as much as possible) restore the system to a nominally flat response.


If you are having difficulty hearing frequencies, then it sounds like ARC may not be set up right. Especially when you report a 'phasey' sound - I had the same thing happen to me early on, and it was due to laziness in how I took the measurements. (I don't recall the details, unfortunately.)


----------



## butterbars

So is anyone successfully using the #2 HDMI output on the D2v?


I have #1 HDMI out going to my projector and #2 going to a plasma in another room. It seems the #2 output is only active when my projector (connected to #1) is powered on. That would be a huge limitation if that is how it is designed to work.


So is anyone using both HDMI outputs?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *butterbars* /forum/post/17199498
> 
> 
> So is anyone successfully using the #2 HDMI output on the D2v?
> 
> 
> I have #1 HDMI out going to my projector and #2 going to a plasma in another room. It seems the #2 output is only active when my projector (connected to #1) is powered on. That would be a huge limitation if that is how it is designed to work.
> 
> 
> So is anyone using both HDMI outputs?



Give Anthem tech support a call. They have had problems with certain brands of displays. Your issue may already be fixed in the V2.07f "test" firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *butterbars* /forum/post/17199498
> 
> 
> So is anyone successfully using the #2 HDMI output on the D2v?
> 
> 
> I have #1 HDMI out going to my projector and #2 going to a plasma in another room. It seems the #2 output is only active when my projector (connected to #1) is powered on. That would be a huge limitation if that is how it is designed to work.
> 
> 
> So is anyone using both HDMI outputs?



Greetings,


I received my AVM50v yesterday and have integrated it into my system which includes a JVC RS20 front projector and a 1080p flat panel LCD. I have had no problems using both outputs independently. The HD players in my system have had no issues seeing either display through the Anthem.


I tried 2.07 which came installed and have upgraded to the "test" 2.07g software which so far seems to be a large improvement.


In either case my Scientific Atlanta cable box/DVR just doesn't get along with the Anthem via HDMI. It kept rebooting each time I turned the Anthem off. I switched to component/SPDIF and all is well.



Regards,


----------



## gonzalc3

Congrstulations Ralph!

How do you like it so far?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17199549
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I received my AVM50v yesterday and have integrated it into my system which includes a JVC RS20 front projector and a 1080p flat panel LCD. I have had no problems using both outputs independently. The HD players in my system have had no issues seeing either display through the Anthem.
> 
> 
> I tried 2.07 which came installed and have upgraded to the "test" 2.07g software which so far seems to be a large improvement.
> 
> 
> In either case my Scientific Atlanta cable box/DVR just doesn't get along with the Anthem via HDMI. It kept rebooting each time I turned the Anthem off. I switched to component/SPDIF and all is well.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17199489
> 
> 
> Very roughly - 1KHz to 10 KHz. Below that is fundamentals, above that is high harmonics that add character and 'air.'
> 
> 
> Of course, all the harmonics can help in imaging - but the range from 1 - 10K is critical.
> 
> 
> BTW, I question why your speakers would have a built-in frequency dip. That ends up taking the perfect mix created by the sound mixer and effectively re-equalizes it. On a quality recording you should be able to hear everything - assuming you have a full-range and (relatively) flat system AND room.
> 
> 
> ARC is intended to reduce or eliminate dips or peaks in your room and (as much as possible) restore the system to a nominally flat response.
> 
> 
> If you are having difficulty hearing frequencies, then it sounds like ARC may not be set up right. Especially when you report a 'phasey' sound - I had the same thing happen to me early on, and it was due to laziness in how I took the measurements. (I don't recall the details, unfortunately.)



My thoughts exactly, 100hz. to around 2.2khz is where the vocals are and having a big dip at around 2k is a big problem for me. Perhaps using ARC to 5k is just about right. I would bet, solving those dips at 80 to 140hz. and 1 to 3khz would transform David's system several notches up.


----------



## butterbars

Thanks guys. I just emailed Nick.


Ralph...glad to hear you got your AVM50v and have it working well.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17199513
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call. They have had problems with certain brands of displays. Your issue may already be fixed in the V2.07f "test" firmware.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17199549
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I received my AVM50v yesterday and have integrated it into my system which includes a JVC RS20 front projector and a 1080p flat panel LCD. I have had no problems using both outputs independently. The HD players in my system have had no issues seeing either display through the Anthem.
> 
> 
> I tried 2.07 which came installed and have upgraded to the "test" 2.07g software which so far seems to be a large improvement.
> 
> 
> In either case my Scientific Atlanta cable box/DVR just doesn't get along with the Anthem via HDMI. It kept rebooting each time I turned the Anthem off. I switched to component/SPDIF and all is well.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/17199636
> 
> 
> Congrstulations Ralph!
> 
> How do you like it so far?



Greetings,


Chris I sent you a PM..


This is my second time owning Anthem gear, I owned the AVM50 from 2006 through Feb. 2008. The decision to go back wasn't difficult because their gear sounds so good, performs well, and offers so much flexibility. Like most "boutique" style eletronics it does come with concessions. In this case it pertains to dealing with compatibility issues related to HDMI and (predominantly) cable boxes.


My Denon 5308CI never had one handshaking related glitch with any of my equipment. I don't mean to sound as if I am complaining because I am not not. I knew going in that there would probably be a problem in that regard. It is a minor annoyance compared to the Anthem's positives.


Like the AVM50 the 50v sounds sooo sweet with music and rocks with digital movie soundtracks. It's video processing is every bit as good as it is flexible.



I will run ARC next week after I have done some critical listening. Besides Anthem needs to send me a straight serial cable as I also received the NULL MODEM cable in my ARC kit.



Regards,


----------



## fuzzybk

Sold my AVM 30 tonight and hope to pick up my brand new AVM 50v tomorrow afternoon. Can't wait.


----------



## Texas steve

Yes, when I told Anthem about my Null Cable they went to their shipping area and found "many" with the Null. I guess there will be others that will find this painful issue.


Its been 10 days since I reported it and still no replacement cable in the mail, in addition I also only got one remote with my D2v.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17200019
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Chris I sent you a PM..
> 
> 
> T Besides Anthem needs to send me a straight serial cable as I also received the NULL MODEM cable in my ARC kit.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,


----------



## huetamo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17190653
> 
> 
> You appear to be having an HDMI handshaking problem. The AVM 50 display is changing to "Digital" and the player display is changing to "HDMI" because the HDMI connection has broken down and the player is trying to re-establish it.
> 
> 
> Since HDMI is an end to end protocol, the problem could be either the connection from player to AVM 50 or from AVM 50 to display.
> 
> 
> Of course there could be a problem in the HDMI hardware in one of the three devices, but by far the most likely scenario here is that you have a cabling problem.
> 
> 
> First, I want to make sure you are using no HDMI adapters, splitters, switches or the like on either side of the Anthem? There should just be an HDMI cable between the player and the Anthem and another between the Anthem and the display. No wall adapters? No daisy-chained cables? If you are using any of that, try again without them in the signal path.
> 
> 
> Next try temporarily setting the output of the player to HDMI 408p, and the output of the AVM 50 to HDMI 480p. 480p (not 480i) is the "simplest" resolution for HDMI to handle.
> 
> 
> If that seems to work, then next try HDMI 1080i. Again you need to do this both for input and output video. If 1080i works and 1080p doesn't work then that is a pretty strong indication of a cabling problem.
> 
> 
> HDMI plugs are just a friction fit. It only takes a slight shift in plug/socket to make the connection marginal. The weight of the cable could do that. Or it is possible that the pins were not properly aligned to begin with and the cables have now shifted or the pins corroded to the point where it is making a difference.
> 
> 
> So try some new cables. Get cables labeled for HDMI V1.3 "high speed", or "for 1080p", or "category 2". All these mean the same thing -- that the cable has been subjected to the strictest of the HDMI design/testing specs.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If the problem persists at HDMI 1080i or even worse at 480p then that suggests a fault in HDMI in one of the 3 devices. Usually this is firmware but sometimes hardware.
> 
> 
> The HDMI input in the AVM 50 uses 2 chips. One of them handles input sockets 1/2, the other 3/4. Try switching to a socket that uses the "other" chip.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Rarely, HDMI cabling gets affected by "ground loops". A ground loop is electrical garbage that gets into your system from some source, travels around from device to device via the shields of the cables connecting them, and eventually exits back to ground to complete the circuit. Most commonly it gets back to ground through the 3rd pin of a 3-pin power plug. The single most common source of ground loop garbage is a cable/satellite feed wire that has not been properly grounded where it enters your house.
> 
> 
> The most common symptoms of "ground loop" problems are a hum from any speakers (particularly the subwoofer) or horizontal interference lines that scroll slowly up the screen on your display. If you have either of these then you definitely want to fix your ground loop. If you have recently added a device to your setup with a 3 prong plug -- even if it is not turned on when you are having this problem -- then that may explain why it is happening now. NOTE: That device is not the source of the problem -- it is merely providing the final step in the signal path to complete the ground loop circuit.
> 
> 
> Also, whenever you suspect a ground loop, one of the first things to try is to disconnect the cable/satellite feed wire coming out of the wall. If the problem goes away, then that's your source. Note that garbage coming in this way can interfere even when you are NOT watching cable/satellite TV.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


Thanks for your fast response. I tried your suggestion changing the input in the Anthem from #1 HDMI to #4 and was able to watch Amedeus without any problems. This weekend I will try to connect my blu-ray player to HDMI #2 to see if the problem is in the socket #1 only or if something is wrong with the chip that controls those sockets. Anyway in the meantime I can enjoy BD movies.


My unit still makes a popping noise when I press stop & play while watching a BD movie. Do you have any idea why it does that? Thanks for your help!


----------



## aramb

I had some friends over last night to check out the new home theater. As luck would have it, I had difficulty getting the Panasonic DMP-BD80 to handshake properly with the Anthem. I kept getting green screens. I have had this problem with the XA2, but this was a first. My handshaking between the BD80 and Anthem has been flawless until last night. Anyway, I finally did get it working, but I am curious as to why it can handshake perfectly so many times, and then when it wigs out, it does it over and over. Odd.


Anyway, I am hoping the upgrade to the new version software will help with this, but unfortunately no one at Anthem has replied to my emails requesting access to the password protected site. Any suggestions?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17201812
> 
> 
> I had some friends over last night to check out the new home theater. As luck would have it, I had difficulty getting the Panasonic DMP-BD80 to handshake properly with the Anthem. I kept getting green screens. I have had this problem with the XA2, but this was a first. My handshaking between the BD80 and Anthem has been flawless until last night. Anyway, I finally did get it working, but I am curious as to why it can handshake perfectly so many times, and then when it wigs out, it does it over and over. Odd.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I am hoping the upgrade to the new version software will help with this, but unfortunately no one at Anthem has replied to my emails requesting access to the password protected site. Any suggestions?



Just as a side note, the I sequence I use for turning on my system has prevented 99% of the handshake problems. I am using 2.07g and previously 2.07f. I first turn on my pj then the anthem (make sure the proper source is selected) and then my source (ps3, oppo BD-83, SA 8300 pvr, Toshiba XA2, *all using HDMI*, Arcam CD player and a Kenwood laserdisc(optical). Since Dr. Hankz told me this I have been fairly free of green screen, white sparklies etc. Hope this helps.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17202188
> 
> 
> Since Dr. Hankz told me this I have been fairly free of green screen, white sparklies etc. Hope this helps.
> 
> John



Thanks John for the Complement.


Yes - powering up the chain in what might seem like

a reverse order is how to best avoid HDMI handshake

issues. The Handshake starts at the Source device and

then propagates to the final destination. Therefore giving

each device in the chain time to stabilize is why the reverse

order works.


I use a Crestron Control System and I can program each

device to turn on in the order I want with programmable

delays in between sequences. I make sure each device in

the Chain has adequate Software boot up times before the

next device is turned on. My COMPLETE Theater Power-Up

takes about 2 minutes. But I have experienced NO HDMI

Handshake problems since Version 1.1 FW on my now very

OLD D2.


----------



## jayray

Dr. Hankz,

perhaps this should be posted on the first page









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17202473
> 
> 
> Dr. Hankz,
> 
> perhaps this should be posted on the first page
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



It Might be helpful - but Only Levesque can do that.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17202188
> 
> 
> Just as a side note, the I sequence I use for turning on my system has prevented 99% of the handshake problems. I am using 2.07g and previously 2.07f. I first turn on my pj then the anthem (make sure the proper source is selected) and then my source (ps3, oppo BD-83, SA 8300 pvr, Toshiba XA2, *all using HDMI*, Arcam CD player and a Kenwood laserdisc(optical). Since Dr. Hankz told me this I have been fairly free of green screen, white sparklies etc. Hope this helps.
> 
> John



Greetings,


jayray, which cable company do you have? I have TWC and also use the SA8300HD DVR. My only issue is that when I power off the Anthem the 8300HD goes into a reboot stage (onscreen) and doesn't restart the booting process until I power up the Anthem. Are you using HDMI with your 8300?


A little strange..


Regards,


----------



## vengazor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17203273
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> jayray, which cable company do you have? I have TWC and also use the SA8300HD DVR. My only issue is that when I power off the Anthem the 8300HD goes into a reboot stage (onscreen) and doesn't restart the booting process until I power up the Anthem. Are you using HDMI with your 8300?
> 
> 
> A little strange..
> 
> 
> Regards,



My directv dvr will not power on unless the anthem d2v is powered before it, but no reboots occur


----------



## K.G.

I have been following this thread for a while.I think this would be a perfect upgrade for me. Can any one suggest a place where I can get a reasonable discount on D2v?


K.G..


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17203273
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> jayray, which cable company do you have? I have TWC and also use the SA8300HD DVR. My only issue is that when I power off the Anthem the 8300HD goes into a reboot stage (onscreen) and doesn't restart the booting process until I power up the Anthem. Are you using HDMI with your 8300?
> 
> 
> A little strange..
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,

Living in Canada, we only have two choices. I use Rogers. I use HDMI and have had two or three models in the last two years. None of them have had a problem with syncing. I have never had a reboot and the unit comes on regardless of whether the D2v is powered up. Go figure









John


----------



## aramb

Okay... I am going to re-program my control system to power-on using the sequence suggested by DrHankz with delays. I already am powering on PJ first, then AVM50v, followed by the source, however the AVM50v takes about 30 seconds to boot up and I have already powered up the DVD player. We'll see if adding the delay into the cycle helps.



AramB


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17204835
> 
> 
> Ralph,
> 
> Living in Canada, we only have two choices. I use Rogers. I use HDMI and have had two or three models in the last two years. None of them have had a problem with syncing. I have never had a reboot and the unit comes on regardless of whether the D2v is powered up. Go figure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



My 8300 goes into a permanent reboot cycle when connected by HDMI and the D2v is off. I switched to Component since the only way to get the PVR to work reliably was to leave the D2v powered on.


Apparently this varies from unit to unit and I guess I could swap it for a different box since it is a rental... maybe someday when I get off my lazy butt.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/17205108
> 
> 
> My 8300 goes into a permanent reboot cycle when connected by HDMI and the D2v is off. I switched to Component since the only way to get the PVR to work reliably was to leave the D2v powered on.
> 
> 
> Apparently this varies from unit to unit and I guess I could swap it for a different box since it is a rental... maybe someday when I get off my lazy butt.



Craig,

One of the only benefits of renting is to take back units until one works. A friend had trouble syncing with his Denon 3808, took back the pvr for another one and now he watches using HDMI. No wonder Bob says HDMI is finnicky









John


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris* /forum/post/17205108
> 
> 
> My 8300 goes into a permanent reboot cycle when connected by HDMI and the D2v is off. I switched to Component since the only way to get the PVR to work reliably was to leave the D2v powered on.
> 
> 
> Apparently this varies from unit to unit and I guess I could swap it for a different box since it is a rental... maybe someday when I get off my lazy butt.



Greetings,


Thanks John and Craig. I will try swapping my 8300HD for the 8300HDC and see if there is any difference. Honestly I think the problem lies in the software implementation but it can't hurt to give it a shot.



Regards,


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17205201
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Thanks John and Craig. I will try swapping my 8300HD for the 8300HDC and see if there is any difference. Honestly I think the problem lies in the software implementation but it can't hurt to give it a shot.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



A combination of the "Hankz" manuever and exchanging the 8300 is the easy solution. I always try that first. Good luck.

PS. What is the 8300HDC?

John


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17205544
> 
> 
> A combination of the "Hankz" manuever and exchanging the 8300 is the easy solution. I always try that first. Good luck.
> 
> PS. What is the 8300HDC?
> 
> John



Greetings,


John the SA 8300HDC is a newer version of the 8300HD that includes a cable card slot..



Regards,


----------



## obie_fl

Keep in mind that hardware is only half the story. Cable set top boxes can run several different OSes and numerous different versions of software on those OSes. The software running on these boxes can and will vary from provider to provider.


Ralph - Not sure who your provider is but before you trade the 8300HD for the 8300HDC check around. In my area (BHN Central Florida) the 8300HD is highly sought after and much more stable then the 8300HDC. Of course it may be different on your cable system. For the record I'm running two 8300HDs both using HDMI output, works fine with my D2 and my old rear projector set with DVI input.


----------



## vengazor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17197327
> 
> 
> Yes I recommend using the S/PDIF connections instead of analog -- or HDMI if you are playing CDs using a video player.
> 
> 
> If you use analog output from the player you are converting the digital data off the disc to analog twice -- once in the player and again after processing in the Anthem. That's another place for quality issues to show up.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If the suggestions above don't get your Center channel back for CD analog input processed via PLIIx-Music, I think you ought to give Anthem tech support a call. I still think it is something simple we are overlooking, but I've run out of ideas.
> 
> --Bob



I unplugged the Multichannel Analog outs from my Cd/Dvd player and used a Digital Coax cable instead, and the center channel works fine as I would have expected it to work originally. While the sound is the same to my ears and the one cable vs. six is easier to install, it still bothers me that the mutichannel analog outs did not produce sound out of the center channel.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17205780
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that hardware is only half the story. Cable set top boxes can run several different OSes and numerous different versions of software on those OSes. The software running on these boxes can and will vary from provider to provider.
> 
> 
> Ralph - Not sure who your provider is but before you trade the 8300HD for the 8300HDC check around. In my area (BHN Central Florida) the 8300HD is highly sought after and much more stable then the 8300HDC. Of course it may be different on your cable system. For the record I'm running two 8300HDs both using HDMI output, works fine with my D2 and my old rear projector set with DVI input.



Greetings,


obie, when I had the AVM50 I had very little trouble with this same box (Time Warner Cable). Once things are up and running operation is smooth. I have been considering this and will probably live with the reboot as the unit handshakes just fine once it finishes booting and is powered on.


Thanks for your feedback..










Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17206411
> 
> 
> I unplugged the Multichannel Analog outs from my Cd/Dvd player and used a Digital Coax cable instead, and the center channel works fine as I would have expected it to work originally. While the sound is the same to my ears and the one cable vs. six is easier to install, it still bothers me that the mutichannel analog outs did not produce sound out of the center channel.



Ah! I knew it would be something simple!


When you play stereo content on the 5.1 analog inputs, there is no way for the D2v to know that it is only stereo. The Anthem sees it as 5.1, albeit with most of the channels silent at the moment.


So when you apply PLIIx to that, all that happens is that audio is generated for the rear speakers. The original 5.1 input channels are not altered. Since there is no content in the input Side channels, nothing gets generated for the rears either.


When you switch to Optical/Coax, the input signal is 2.0 instead of 5.1, and PLIIx knows it is OK to generate additional speakers of output from that.


What you need to do for Analog if you want PLIIx to generate center speaker output is to use a STEREO Analog input instead of 5.1. This can be the 2-channel input or any stereo RCA Jack pair.

--Bob


----------



## vengazor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17206618
> 
> 
> Ah! I knew it would be something simple!
> 
> 
> When you play stereo content on the 5.1 analog inputs, there is no way for the D2v to know that it is only stereo. The Anthem sees it as 5.1, albeit with most of the channels silent at the moment.
> 
> 
> So when you apply PLIIx to that, all that happens is that audio is generated for the rear speakers. The original 5.1 input channels are not altered. Since there is no content in the input Side channels, nothing gets generated for the rears either.
> 
> 
> When you switch to Optical/Coax, the input signal is 2.0 instead of 5.1, and PLIIx knows it is OK to generate additional speakers of output from that.
> 
> 
> What you need to do for Analog if you want PLIIx to generate center speaker output is to use a STEREO Analog input instead of 5.1. This can be the 2-channel input or any stereo RCA Jack pair.
> 
> --Bob



thanks bob!


if anyone cares, here is a pic of my equipment:


----------



## fuzzybk

Got my brand new AVM 50v tonight. Hooked it all up and everything is working ok. Has firmware version 2.07 from the factory. I was surprised that the remote that comes with the AVM 50v is not the one displayed in the manual. It is a sleeker model.


So far so good. Haven't had a chance to set speaker levels or run ARC yet. My son was sound asleep and I didn't feel like waking him up to a 75db test tone. With regards to the video processing of the AVM 50v all I can say is WOW!!!!!! Popped in Fifth Element and Dark Knight both on Blu Ray and was very impressed. Especially with Fifth Element, everything looked razor sharp and clean.


I did notice one issue so far and that was when I switched from Blu Ray to dvd, there was a quick poping sound from my left front speaker. I use HDMI for Blu Ray and component for dvd so I'll keep an eye on this and see if it happens again.


Overall very impressed with my new toy.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17207068
> 
> 
> thanks bob!
> 
> 
> if anyone cares, here is a pic of my equipment:



Nice bit of kit, there!


May I make two suggestions?


1) Have you thought about raising the C speaker? You have a lot of room to do so, and aligning the tweeters across LCR will give you smoother lateral panning. It will also reduce the floor bounce a little, making ARC's job easier.


2) The pix you posted overloaded my PC screen.







I see they are 1738x980 pixels, which is about twice the width recommended. In future, you could downrez them to 800x600 or thereabouts, or even less if you like, they will fit the screen better.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17207294
> 
> 
> Got my brand new AVM 50v tonight. Hooked it all up and everything is working ok. Has firmware version 2.07 from the factory. I was surprised that the remote that comes with the AVM 50v is not the one displayed in the manual. It is a sleeker model.....



That's interesting! Same button layout? The remote shown in the manual is the same one they've used since the original D2 and AVM 50 came out.

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17205780
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that hardware is only half the story. Cable set top boxes can run several different OSes and numerous different versions of software on those OSes. The software running on these boxes can and will vary from provider to provider.
> 
> 
> Ralph - Not sure who your provider is but before you trade the 8300HD for the 8300HDC check around. In my area (BHN Central Florida) the 8300HD is highly sought after and much more stable then the 8300HDC. Of course it may be different on your cable system. For the record I'm running two 8300HDs both using HDMI output, works fine with my D2 and my old rear projector set with DVI input.



Most definitely, stay away from the 8300HDC. I have the 8300HD connected to my D2v using component. HDMI is just too much trouble, but I'm not trading my box...


----------



## perioms

I have got some questions regarding video capabilities of the D2v. Why are the number of internal test patterns so limited. There are no charts (windowed gray scale in 10% steps) to calibrate the gamma curve with colorfacts. Is it possible like the Lumagen Radiance, which has the same Sigma chip to allow a Color Management System (CMS) for complete display and source calibration (independent gamut correction of primaries and secondaries).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17205006
> 
> 
> Okay... I am going to re-program my control system to power-on using the sequence suggested by DrHankz with delays. I already am powering on PJ first, then AVM50v, followed by the source, however the AVM50v takes about 30 seconds to boot up and I have already powered up the DVD player. We'll see if adding the delay into the cycle helps.
> 
> 
> 
> AramB



There other Scenarios that might also work if the other one does not.


I have DVRs connected to my D2 via Component [not HDMI].

When my theater powers up - I also make sure the D2 is set

to a Non-HDMI input. That way the D2 does the handshake with

the PJ - basically saying this is NOT HDCP protected Content.


Then later if I need to play a Blu-Ray - the PJ and D2 have been

HAPPY Playing together for some time


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17207921
> 
> 
> I have got some questions regarding video capabilities of the D2v. Why are the number of internal test patterns so limited. There are no charts (windowed gray scale in 10% steps) to calibrate the gamma curve with colorfacts. Is it possible like the Lumagen Radiance, which has the same Sigma chip to allow a Color Management System (CMS) for complete display and source calibration (independent gamut correction of primaries and secondaries).



The main reason is that the built in test charts are not saved as images. They are, instead, constructed algorithmically on the fly in the video processor each time they are displayed. Programming more charts is on Anthem's wish list, but I don't know when they might get around to it.


If you move the optical sensor, you can use the gray and individual color bar step charts to get 10% increments.


[NOTE: Using Live Video Settings Editor (a Windows PC utility included with the ARC stuff) you can create and upload Custom Gamma Correction curves -- either gray scale alone or separate for R, G, and B.]


Anthem has chosen not to put CMS in the processor since it is impossible to provide a proper and complete CMS solution except inside the display itself (i.e., you can trim the gamut -- however only at the expense of data compression -- but of course you can never expand it).

--Bob


----------



## brusteraider

I got my shiney new D2v2 on Thursday as part of the Trade-in program and finally got it up and running. It arrived in good shape considering it had two holes in the box. Total turn around time was 2 weeks, more than half of that was was UPS Gound. I live on the West coast so your mileage may very depending where you live. All I have to say is this is a big step up from my D1-HD/D2 , I don't even have Arc set up yet and sound is much improved, and after tweaking video that also seems improved. I have no handshake issues running version 2.07 and didn't before so I am very pleased. I will check back with any Questions or problems but so far so good. Thanks Bob for all the info you put on here,now may I have a cookie.


Bruce


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here ya go! Fresh cookie! Hot out of the oven!


Thanks for reporting on the turnaround time, too.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17207511
> 
> 
> That's interesting! Same button layout? The remote shown in the manual is the same one they've used since the original D2 and AVM 50 came out.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I saw it at Anthem a couple of months ago but was sworn to secrecy







Some of the buttons are in diff places but overall very similar layout. Sleeker design as mentioned. Have to admit I prefer the original. Just a matter of personal preference.

John


----------



## facke02

Anyone using a NMT (Network Media Tank) or Media Streamer with the D2v? I have a Xtreamer that I was using in a smaller system, so today I tried it with my D2v. What a disaster that was. Serious image problems with blue and green smeared all over the screen and it doesn't think the D2v allows anything above 1080i. HDMI cable is brand new from Blue Jeans Cable, but I will try ot on another device to be certain it's good. Funny thing is it works just fine with a $500 Pio AVR.


Any recommendation on a media streamer that works would be great...


----------



## aramb

This afternoon I installed version 2.07(g) of the firmware into my AVM50v. So far, it is a major improvement with regards to HDMI handshaking. Also, it solved my problem with the audio dropouts on the Transformers HD-DVD. The only issue I am noticing is soft popping when switching sources. I also re-ran the ARC and increased my target frequency to 12000hz. Below are the graphs.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/17210972
> 
> 
> Anyone using a NMT (Network Media Tank) or Media Streamer with the D2v? I have a Xtreamer that I was using in a smaller system, so today I tried it with my D2v. What a disaster that was. Serious image problems with blue and green smeared all over the screen and it doesn't think the D2v allows anything above 1080i. HDMI cable is brand new from Blue Jeans Cable, but I will try ot on another device to be certain it's good. Funny thing is it works just fine with a $500 Pio AVR.
> 
> 
> Any recommendation on a media streamer that works would be great...



I have both an A-100 and the new C-200 PopCorn Hour on my D2.

Both work perfectly over HDMI to the D2. I can stream HD Video from my HP Media Smart server, a laptop, or a desktop.All are on wired ethernet. I can also use the internal HHD in the Popcorn Hour.


----------



## fuzzybk

Well I've had my AVM 50v for 2 days now and have noticed some quirks. The first one is that whenever I shut down my AVM 50v, a soft 'pop' comes from all my speakers. No matter what source I've been listening to, the 'pop' happens when I power off my AVM 50v.


Second quirk was when I was setting up the mode presets for my 'CD' input, I was able to hear the radio through my front speakers at a moderate level. Very strange. I haven't been able to do this again so I hope it was a one time thing.


So far I'm loving my AVM 50v. The video processing is great and it might be my imagination but I think it sounds better than my AVM 30 did.


On Monday I will run ARC and see what happens.


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17209941
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I saw it at Anthem a couple of months ago but was sworn to secrecy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the buttons are in diff places but overall very similar layout. Sleeker design as mentioned. Have to admit I prefer the original. Just a matter of personal preference.
> 
> John



At first I thought Anthem had shipped me the wrong remote. I'm glad to hear I have the right one. Doesn't matter that much to me since I use a Harmony One.


----------



## bluemark81

I know this is not the right forum for this, but I know many of you are Paradigm owners as well. I am wondering if anyone has compared the S6 to the S8's? Are the S8's significantly better? Please pm me as to not hijack this thread. Thanks.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I just found a significant issue for those running 7.1 channel setups. The Anthem doesn't apply PLIIx decoding to lossless soundtracks using test software 2.07f or 2.07g. The display indicates processing is being applied but the surrounds are turned off.


This is a problem.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17211559
> 
> 
> I have both an A-100 and the new C-200 PopCorn Hour on my D2.
> 
> Both work perfectly over HDMI to the D2. I can stream HD Video from my HP Media Smart server, a laptop, or a desktop.All are on wired ethernet. I can also use the internal HHD in the Popcorn Hour.



Stewman, this is a little off topic for this forum although at least three of us are interested in the same config....take it to PM's if you prefer


I am about to order a C-200 and also have a HP server that has all of my DVD collection ripped onto it.


Are you running YAMJ? Is the C-200 playing nicely with your D2 and passing all of the correct formats? Are you running blu-ray from your server and how is that working with bandwidths etc?


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17211613
> 
> 
> Well I've had my AVM 50v for 2 days now and have noticed some quirks. The first one is that whenever I shut down my AVM 50v, a soft 'pop' comes from all my speakers. No matter what source I've been listening to, the 'pop' happens when I power off my AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> Second quirk was when I was setting up the mode presets for my 'CD' input, I was able to hear the radio through my front speakers at a moderate level. Very strange. I haven't been able to do this again so I hope it was a one time thing.
> 
> 
> So far I'm loving my AVM 50v. The video processing is great and it might be my imagination but I think it sounds better than my AVM 30 did.
> 
> 
> On Monday I will run ARC and see what happens.



When you turn off the AVM50v your amps are still on and this creates the popping. It would happen if the amps were on first and you turned on the AVM50v. Muting the volume when you turn it off will eliminate this or just lowering the volume will minimize the sound. I have this on both my AVM50 and D2v.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17212468
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I just found a significant issue for those running 7.1 channel setups. The Anthem doesn't apply PLIIx decoding to lossless soundtracks using test software 2.07f or 2.07g. The display indicates processing is being applied but the surrounds are turned off.
> 
> 
> This is a problem.



Ralph,

I haven't noticed this with either firmware version. I know PLIIx cannot be applied to DTS-MA tracks recorded at 192/24, just a limitation of PLIIx. I will give it a shot sometime today to try and verify.

John


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17212858
> 
> 
> Ralph,
> 
> I haven't noticed this with either firmware version. I know PLIIx cannot be applied to DTS-MA tracks recorded at 192/24, just a limitation of PLIIx. I will give it a shot sometime today to try and verify.
> 
> John



Greetings,


John,


Stand near either of your rear channel surrounds and switch from Dolby Digital to TrueHD on a Blu-ray disc during a scene containing rear channel activity. You will see what I am referring to. This isn't an issue with 7.1 channel encoded DTS-HD MA discs only 5.1 Dolby TrueHD, uncompressed PCM, or DTS-HD MA discs.


I suspect that the code has been compromised to see all lossless audio as 7.1and therefore doesn't apply the PLIIx decoding regardless of what the front panel display indicates. With the amount of discs that come through my system this simply won't work for me.


I have reverted back to 2.07 which doesn't exhibit the problem. So far I haven't had any significant issues with 2.07 and will stay with it until I see something better.



Regards,


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17211219
> 
> 
> This afternoon I installed version 2.07(g) of the firmware into my AVM50v. So far, it is a major improvement with regards to HDMI handshaking. Also, it solved my problem with the audio dropouts on the Transformers HD-DVD. The only issue I am noticing is soft popping when switching sources. I also re-ran the ARC and increased my target frequency to 12000hz. Below are the graphs.




You have a nasty room null at 65 hz affecting your sub. I'd try moving the sub to a different location to correct that. (arc won't apply processing to fill in that gap as it would kill your sub amp).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17212468
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I just found a significant issue for those running 7.1 channel setups. The Anthem doesn't apply PLIIx decoding to lossless soundtracks using test software 2.07f or 2.07g. The display indicates processing is being applied but the surrounds are turned off.
> 
> 
> This is a problem.



If you are feeding 5.1 into PLIIx the only thing that is supposed to happen is new audio generated for the rear speakers. The original 5.1 input channels are not altered. That means if there is no SIDE speaker content in the 5.1 input (for example if the 5.1 input is really carrying only stereo content at the moment) BOTH the Side and Rear speakers will be silent.


That said, I've previously reported that there are surround processing bugs in V2.07g (not present in V2.07f) when using a 5.1 speaker setup. I've no way to confirm what happens in a 7.1 speaker setup with either version.


What disc/track did you use to confirm your 7.1 problem? When you press Select multiple times, what is the D2v reporting for input audio format, channels active for input, and speakers active for output?


ETA: Please do email details to Anthem tech support as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17211219
> 
> 
> This afternoon I installed version 2.07(g) of the firmware into my AVM50v. So far, it is a major improvement with regards to HDMI handshaking. Also, it solved my problem with the audio dropouts on the Transformers HD-DVD. The only issue I am noticing is soft popping when switching sources. I also re-ran the ARC and increased my target frequency to 12000hz.



As pointed out above, you've got a nasty >20dB swing between 30Hz and 60Hz in the Measured response for your Sub. That's more than ARC can correct and the hole it leaves either side of 60Hz is deep enough and wide enough in frequency that it really should be addressed.


Start by relocating your Sub -- even inches matter at these frequencies. I suggest moving it further away from the nearest wall/corner. If you can't find a new location that improves how the Sub is coupling to the room, you should look into adding bass traps to the walls/corner behind it to kill off some off the bass reflections. If you can clean up about half the problem this way, ARC will take care of the rest.


-------------------------------


Your Side surround speakers remain your weakest speakers. The limitation in their bass probably can only be addressed by replacing them. The high frequency limitation may respond well to repointing them.


-------------------------------


Why did you raise the limit to only 12KHz? Did you see or hear problems when you raised it higher?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/17210972
> 
> 
> Anyone using a NMT (Network Media Tank) or Media Streamer with the D2v? I have a Xtreamer that I was using in a smaller system, so today I tried it with my D2v. What a disaster that was. Serious image problems with blue and green smeared all over the screen and it doesn't think the D2v allows anything above 1080i. HDMI cable is brand new from Blue Jeans Cable, but I will try ot on another device to be certain it's good. Funny thing is it works just fine with a $500 Pio AVR.
> 
> 
> Any recommendation on a media streamer that works would be great...



You may have a hardware problem on that particular D2v HDMI input. In addition to your cable check, try using an HDMI input that you know works with some other HDMI source.


Describe the blue/green defect further: Is it that the whole screen appears tinted Ghastly Green or that you have blue/green splotches visible in the image? The first case indicates a handshake problem in the automatic choice to use YCbCr or RGB data format. Try setting explicit YCbCr output from your server to the Anthem. The second case would probably indicate a hardware problem. Give Anthem tech support a call.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17213242
> 
> 
> If you are feeding 5.1 into PLIIx the only thing that is supposed to happen is new audio generated for the rear speakers. The original 5.1 input channels are not altered. That means if there is no SIDE speaker content in the 5.1 input (for example if the 5.1 input is really carrying only stereo content at the moment) BOTH the Side and Rear speakers will be silent.
> 
> 
> That said, I've previously reported that there are surround processing bugs in V2.07g (not present in V2.07f) when using a 5.1 speaker setup. I've no way to confirm what happens in a 7.1 speaker setup with either version.
> 
> 
> What disc/track did you use to confirm your 7.1 problem? When you press Select multiple times, what is the D2v reporting for input audio format, channels active for input, and speakers active for output?
> 
> 
> ETA: Please do email details to Anthem tech support as well.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Thanks Bob but I am well aware of how PLIIx post processing works with 5.1 channel signals. This has nothing to do with cases where there is no information being sent to the side surrounds (which would result in none being sent to the rear channels).


I ran a variety of 5.1 channel Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD MA and uncompressed PCM sourced Blu-ray discs to test this. I chose discs and scenes that I know contains surround activity (Kill Bill Vol. 1, X-Men Origins: Wolverine, Flight of the Phoenix, Transformers, Iron man, Streets of blood to name a few) and the results were universally the same.


Pressing select the unit reports the correct numbers for input/output as well as the display indicating 5.1+PLIIx. Switching back and forth between the Dolby Digital and Dolby TrueHD/PCM/DTS-HD soundtrack, during the same scenes yielded sound on one and no sound on the other.


This was the case with both 2.07f and 2.07g. 2.07 behaved normally..


I will personally reach out for Nick tomorrow as this is a significant oversight.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Good catch!


I found sort of the inverse with V2.07g where 7.1 TrueHD was not properly down-mixed to 5.1 speakers for my setup. Rear channel content, in addition to being steered to the correct Side speaker, was also incorrectly getting steered to the LF/RF speakers as well! That problem doesn't exist in V2.07f. Confirmed with both the AIX audio calibration Blu-Ray and "Nightmare Before Christmas" Blu-Ray.


Also in V2.07g, 7.1 DTS-HD MA Bitstreams appear to only have the 5.1 lossy core decoded if you use 5.1 speakers. This problem also doesn't happen with V2.07f. [Which means I couldn't test DTS-HD MA for the V2.07g down-mix to 5.1 bug.]

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17213470
> 
> 
> Good catch!
> 
> 
> I found sort of the inverse with V2.07g where 7.1 TrueHD was not properly down-mixed to 5.1 speakers for my setup. Rear channel content, in addition to being steered to the correct Side speaker, was also incorrectly getting steered to the LF/RF speakers as well! That problem doesn't exist in V2.07f. Confirmed with both the AIX audio calibration Blu-Ray and "Nightmare Before Christmas" Blu-Ray.
> 
> 
> Also in V2.07g, 7.1 DTS-HD MA Bitstreams appear to only have the 5.1 lossy core decoded if you use 5.1 speakers. This problem also doesn't happen with V2.07f. [Which means I couldn't test DTS-HD MA for the V2.07g down-mix to 5.1 bug.]
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Okay. I agree with you when you say that something definitely got screwed up during one of the software iterations between 2.07 and 2.07f/g. I also had a video related issue with 2.07g where on two occasions I powered everything up and noticed that the video processor was clipping whites and crushing blacks. I confirmed using both Digital VE and the Spears & Munsil calibration test signals. Powering the unit off and back on restored things to normal. While not a significant problem it is a annoyance nonetheless. For me when evaluating the quality of video on Blu-ray discs I have to rely on what I am seeing. Having to double check this first to make sure that the processor isn't out of whack is a pain. The problem is that it is not something that can be reliably reproduced. I will monitor it with 2.07 and see..



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17213563
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Okay. I agree with you when you say that something definitely got screwed up during one of the software iterations between 2.07 and 2.07f/g. I also had a video related issue with 2.07g where on two occasions I powered everything up and noticed that the video processor was clipping whites and crushing blacks. I confirmed using both Digital VE and the Spears & Munsil calibration test signals. Powering the unit off and back on restored things to normal. While not a significant problem it is a annoyance nonetheless. For me when evaluating the quality of video on Blu-ray discs I have to rely on what I am seeing. Having to double check this first to make sure that the processor isn't out of whack is a pain. The problem is that it is not something that can be reliably reproduced. I will monitor it with 2.07 and see..
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



If you see it again, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" button) and scroll right to the Info panel to see if your video input has unexpectedly switched from YCbCr to RGB.


If so, go back to the Picture panel and check Input Color Space and see whether Studio RGB or Extended RGB is checked.


One explanation might be that the player is sending out Extended RGB when the D2v is expecting Studio RGB.


The fact that you are getting RGB at all could be an HDMI handshake problem. In my testing V2.07f is better for HDMI than V2.07g. But if you ARE getting RGB input, then both the source and the Anthem need to agree on which flavor (Studio vs. Extended) and this requires the correct manual setting at both ends of the cable.


[YCbCr is the normal data format for HDMI. RGB typically comes from computer devices and from game platforms like the PS3 when playing games -- and also from DVI devices. If RGB is used, Studio RGB is the normal format for home theater use.]

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17213612
> 
> 
> If you see it again, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" button) and scroll right to the Info panel to see if your video input has unexpectedly switched from YCbCr to RGB.
> 
> 
> If so, go back to the Picture panel and check Input Color Space and see whether Studio RGB or Extended RGB is checked.
> 
> 
> One explanation might be that the player is sending out Extended RGB when the D2v is expecting Studio RGB.
> 
> 
> The fact that you are getting RGB at all could be an HDMI handshake problem. In my testing V2.07f is better for HDMI than V2.07g. But if you ARE getting RGB input, then both the source and the Anthem need to agree on which flavor (Studio vs. Extended) and this requires the correct manual setting at both ends of the cable.
> 
> 
> [YCbCr is the normal data format for HDMI. RGB typically comes from computer devices and from game platforms like the PS3 when playing games -- and also from DVI devices. If RGB is used, Studio RGB is the normal format for home theater use.]
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


I am using the Oppo BDP-83. I will double check if this occurs again..thanks.











Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17213659
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I am using the Oppo BDP-83. I will double check if this occurs again..thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



I suggest you set the HDMI Color Space setting in the Oppo to YCbCr (either 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 at your preference) rather than Automatic.


Also if you haven't already done so, I suggest you install the 0905 "public beta" Oppo firmware -- available from their support page for the BDP-83. That firmware includes significant HDMI code improvements that are particularly helpful for how it connects to the D2v.


After installing the Oppo firmware, I recommend you go into its setup menu and erase Persistent Storage, then also Reset Factory Defaults and re-enter your Oppo settings. These two steps aren't supposed to be necessary, but there have been a handful of problem reports where folks had problems after a firmware install in the Oppo that were fixed by this.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17213242
> 
> 
> If you are feeding 5.1 into PLIIx the only thing that is supposed to happen is new audio generated for the rear speakers. The original 5.1 input channels are not altered.



Just a small clarification. When PLIIx (or Logic7) process 5.1 sources, it outputs 4 new surround signals derived from the original pair in the 5.1 mix. None of these is the original discrete channel. The result is that L/C/R/LFE are untouched, and Ls/Lb/Rb/Rs are derived. Yes, the new back channels appear where before there were none, so that appears to be where the big "alteration" is happening. But the Ls/Rs are just as altered as the backs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks for clarifying that Roger!

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17213703
> 
> 
> I suggest you set the HDMI Color Space setting in the Oppo to YCbCr (either 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 at your preference) rather than Automatic.
> 
> 
> Also if you haven't already done so, I suggest you install the 0905 "public beta" Oppo firmware -- available from their support page for the BDP-83. That firmware includes significant HDMI code improvements that are particularly helpful for how it connects to the D2v.
> 
> 
> After installing the Oppo firmware, I recommend you go into its setup menu and erase Persistent Storage, then also Reset Factory Defaults and re-enter your Oppo settings. These two steps aren't supposed to be necessary, but there have been a handful of problem reports where folks had problems after a firmware install in the Oppo that were fixed by this.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Bob, all of those had been previously done but thanks.



Regards,


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17211559
> 
> 
> I have both an A-100 and the new C-200 PopCorn Hour on my D2.
> 
> Both work perfectly over HDMI to the D2. I can stream HD Video from my HP Media Smart server, a laptop, or a desktop.All are on wired ethernet. I can also use the internal HHD in the Popcorn Hour.



Thanks... I'll take a look at these if I can't get mine to work. I also use WHS in my Tranquil PC Server.


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17213346
> 
> 
> You may have a hardware problem on that particular D2v HDMI input. In addition to your cable check, try using an HDMI input that you know works with some other HDMI source.
> 
> 
> Describe the blue/green defect further: Is it that the whole screen appears tinted Ghastly Green or that you have blue/green splotches visible in the image? The first case indicates a handshake problem in the automatic choice to use YCbCr or RGB data format. Try setting explicit YCbCr output from your server to the Anthem. The second case would probably indicate a hardware problem. Give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I'll try your suggestions later when I pull the cabinet out again.


Here are 2 pictures of what I'm talking about. The one with the red interface is the good one. I can get the image to clean up if I go into Setup -> Source Setup and select the source. I just exit without changing anything will clean up the image.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/17214306
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I'll try your suggestions later when I pull the cabinet out again.
> 
> 
> Here are 2 pictures of what I'm talking about. The one with the red interface is the good one. I can get the image to clean up if I go into Setup -> Source Setup and select the source. I just ext without changing anything will clean up the image.



OK, that's not the specific hardware problem I was talking about.


I think there's a pretty good chance this is an HDMI implementation problem in your streamer box. Was the Pioneer receiver an HDMI V1.3 device with "Deep Color" support? Your streamer box may not be prepared to get the answers it is getting when it inquires what the D2v is capable of doing.


Anyway, talk to Anthem tech support. They may have some previous reports regarding this particular box. They may suggest you try the "test" V2.07f firmware since it has more robust HDMI code that may get around this. Check to see if there is new firmware for your streamer box.

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17214350
> 
> 
> OK, that's not the specific hardware problem I was talking about.
> 
> 
> I think there's a pretty good chance this is an HDMI implementation problem in your streamer box. Was the Pioneer receiver an HDMI V1.3 device with "Deep Color" support? Your streamer box may not be prepared to get the answers it is getting when it inquires what the D2v is capable of doing.
> 
> 
> Anyway, talk to Anthem tech support. They may have some previous reports regarding this particular box. They may suggest you try the "test" V2.07f firmware since it has more robust HDMI code that may get around this. Check to see if there is new firmware for your streamer box.
> 
> --Bob



Glad to hear it's not a hardware problem. I agree, I think it's a firmware issue with the streamer too. The streamer has the latest fw installed on it as of last week.


My Pioneer AVR (VSX-01TXH) does have HDMI V1.3 and supports Deep Color.


I will contact Anthem support tomorrow and see if they have any thoughts.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I had a fine example of the sort of good stuff you can do with Custom Cropping this weekend.


I was playing a NetFlix copy of "Singin' in the Rain" SD-DVD. It was not the 2002 Special Edition DVD I had hoped they had in inventory. It was instead, apparently, the original 1997 DVD release. This is one of the first DVDs released by MGM (Warner), and not surprisingly it has a technical problem in the transfer.


The feature is on disc in a 4:3 frame, but the transfer is vignetted a bit and shifted to the left. The vignetting is not really a problem -- it's only obvious during the opening titles (the corners are rounded), but the fact that the film was off center when digitized means that there is an annoying vertical noise line down the right of the frame!


If you have a good player that doesn't clip pixels off the edges this will be obvious. Even if you have a TV with overscan you will still see this since the right hand side of the 4:3 image is well inboard of the right edge of the screen (with the black pillar box bar to the right of it).


You could stretch the image left to right to fill your HDTV screen and perhaps lose that noise off the right via overscan on your TV, but that seriously distorts the imagery. Circles now look like wide ovals. Not an acceptable solution.


So what's a movie fan to do?


Well with the Anthems you can fix this!


In Video Source Adjust > Crop Input, select Custom Crop and set appropriate values. The trick is to remember that the values you set are with respect to an imaginary 1920x1080 frame (regardless of the actual input or output resolutions) and that these are square, "HD", pixels we are talking about.


Since there is no problem on the top or bottom of the image (ignoring the corner vignetting), you want the crop to be opened up all the way vertically -- 1080.


Now a 4:3 shape that's 1080 lines tall is precisely 1440 square pixels wide (1080x4/3 = 1440). So a horizontal crop setting of 1440 would get you the full 4:3 frame -- which is then scaled to the shape and resolution of your screen as defined by your Setup > Video Output settings.


If you use Video Source Adjust > Scale Out > Pillar Box, the shape of the cropped input is padded with black bars to match the shape of your screen output. So with a 1440x1080 Custom Crop you will get a 4:3 movie with pillar box bars on either side on your HDTV screen.


Now that will show the noise line I just talked about. But if we close down the horizontal crop further, that noise will be clipped off the sides. Note the the image does not get distorted when you do this. The pillar box bars (Pillar Box scaling) simply get wider.


OK it turns out you need to crop down rather a lot to get rid of all that noise -- from 1440 all the way down to 1405. But this also loses part of the REAL movie off the left side of the image.


Well you can fix that too!


In addition to the horizontal and vertical crop size settings there are two other values which adjust the position of the center of the crop in that imaginary 1920x1080 frame. By default the crop is centered in the frame so those values are 960 and 540. But we can shift the crop to the left to keep the left side of the movie always visible and that means we don't have to narrow the horizontal crop quite so much to get rid of the noise on the right.


As it turns out narrowing the horizontal crop from 1440 to 1420 and shifting it left from 960 to 947 did the trick -- what was left was the actual movie, undistorted and centered in the scaled output frame with pillar box bars on either side, and with no noise on the right! Just that little bit of vignetting in the corners.


[NOTE: The Oppo BDP-83 outputs the full frame of 4:3 SD-DVDs. The PS3 does as well but ONLY if you turn off its scaler so that it outputs them as 480p. If you turn on the PS3 scaler so that it outputs SD-DVDS at 1080p, then the PS3 crops rather a lot off the left and right side of 4:3 SD-DVDs.]


------------------------------------------------


For more info on cropping, and how it interacts with scaling, and for a discussion of square HD pixels vs. non-square SD pixels, see the "Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling" post links collected in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17213703
> 
> 
> I suggest you set the HDMI Color Space setting in the Oppo to YCbCr (either 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 at your preference) rather than Automatic.
> 
> 
> Also if you haven't already done so, I suggest you install the 0905 "public beta" Oppo firmware -- available from their support page for the BDP-83. That firmware includes significant HDMI code improvements that are particularly helpful for how it connects to the D2v.
> 
> 
> After installing the Oppo firmware, I recommend you go into its setup menu and erase Persistent Storage, then also Reset Factory Defaults and re-enter your Oppo settings. These two steps aren't supposed to be necessary, but there have been a handful of problem reports where folks had problems after a firmware install in the Oppo that were fixed by this.
> 
> --Bob



+1 on that. I lost the ability to play BDs until I went through these steps after upgrading to 905.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17213659
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I am using the Oppo BDP-83. I will double check if this occurs again..thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,

Just tried the PLIIx with a 5.1 disc and NO back channel sound. D2v displays all the right info but no sound. If I change to DD 5.1 from TrueHD there is back channel sound. So I too will email Nick to let him know. I too am using the oppo and have set it up after the latest firmware as Bob described. I haven't noticed the video changes you described.

Thanks,

John


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17214852
> 
> 
> Ralph,
> 
> Just tried the PLIIx with a 5.1 disc and NO back channel sound. D2v displays all the right info but no sound. If I change to DD 5.1 from TrueHD there is back channel sound. So I too will email Nick to let him know. I too am using the oppo and have set it up after the latest firmware as Bob described. I haven't noticed the video changes you described.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John



Greetings,


Thanks for confirming that on your set up as well John.


Regards,


----------



## jayray

Well this is weird. Using the Spears and Munsil DTS-MA 5.1 demo I get sound in the back as with the 7.1 demo. Go figure.

John


Just Tried the TrueHD demo on this disc and NO back surround. Well this time it isn't DTS's fault


----------



## jayray

Ralph,

Just tried some more discs and I can confirm that TrueHD seems to be the culprit. DTS-MA discs do not have this problem.

John


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17215000
> 
> 
> Ralph,
> 
> Just tried some more discs and I can confirm that TrueHD seems to be the culprit. DTS-MA discs do not have this problem.
> 
> John



Greetings,


John, I experienced it with uncompressed PCM tracks on Kill Bill Vol. 1, Streets of blood, and Harry Potter and the order of the Phoenix. I also had the problem with Flight of the Phoenix (5.1 DTS-HD MA). I believe that the problem isn't just related to Dolby TrueHD soundtracks.


I have reverted back to 2.07 and will not be going back until I see a fix for this issue which I see as a serious one.



Thanks again.



Regards,


----------



## jayray

Ralph,

Will try some more tomorrow as you have tweaked my curiosity. Will try the discs you mentioned above.

John


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17212839
> 
> 
> When you turn off the AVM50v your amps are still on and this creates the popping. It would happen if the amps were on first and you turned on the AVM50v. Muting the volume when you turn it off will eliminate this or just lowering the volume will minimize the sound. I have this on both my AVM50 and D2v.
> 
> John



I never had this problem with my AVM 30 Jayray. I do turn the volume down before I shut down the AVM 50v and the speaker 'pop' is still there. I hope this doesn't hurt my speakers.


In case anyone is curious, here is the new remote for the AVM 50v.


----------



## fuzzybk

I will be running ARC tomorrow for the first time. Any settings I should be aware about before I start? I thought I read somewhere I have to adjust some frequency settings? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17215669
> 
> 
> In case anyone is curious, here is the new remote for the AVM 50v.



Looks like they made the change so that it could control Blu-Ray players (such as their upcoming BLX 200) -- i.e., they added the 4 Blu-Ray colored buttons among other changes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17215685
> 
> 
> I will be running ARC tomorrow for the first time. Any settings I should be aware about before I start? I thought I read somewhere I have to adjust some frequency settings? Any help would be appreciated.



Scan through the ARC related post-links found in the first post of this thread for info like that.

--Bob


----------



## ironcorn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17215669
> 
> 
> I never had this problem with my AVM 30



Same here, the AVM 30 was silent when I hit the power off, the D2v makes a thumpish pop when the power button is hit. Mine isn't very loud, but I wish it didn't do it. I'll try turing the volume down first.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17215669
> 
> 
> I never had this problem with my AVM 30 Jayray. I do turn the volume down before I shut down the AVM 50v and the speaker 'pop' is still there. I hope this doesn't hurt my speakers.
> 
> 
> In case anyone is curious, here is the new remote for the AVM 50v.




Greetings,


My AVM50 made a similar sound to the AVM50v when powering off. It isn't high in volume and has never been anything that could be construed as being damaging to speakers.



The new remote is interesting. I just received my AVM50v this week and it came with the original remote. When you received your AVM50v did it come with the correct serial cable ?


Regards,


----------



## buddy4711




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/17214306
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I'll try your suggestions later when I pull the cabinet out again.
> 
> 
> Here are 2 pictures of what I'm talking about. The one with the red interface is the good one. I can get the image to clean up if I go into Setup -> Source Setup and select the source. I just exit without changing anything will clean up the image.



I experineced exactly the same issues with the D2! I was getting the good picture only when connecting the Xtreamer directly to the TV. But then I have changed something into the D2 panel (using the button 7 on the remote)...I think it was the color setting from Automatic towards RGB...and the problem was solved I will check tonight ...


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/17216819
> 
> 
> I experineced exactly the same issues with the D2! I was getting the good picture only when connecting the Xtreamer directly to the TV. But then I have changed something into the D2 panel (using the button 7 on the remote)...I think it was the color setting from Automatic towards RGB...and the problem was solved I will check tonight ...



Yeah, I'd like to know how you resolved the issue... Thanks for checking...


Edit: Are you able to set the Xtreamer to 1080p60? This and others some up protected when setting the resolution.


----------



## fuzzybk

I need some help guys. I'm having a problem running ARC.


I have everything hooked up properly. I ran the ARC cd on my laptop (running Vista 64 bit) and it went well. When I start the ARC procedure, I get a message saying "found unit with serial number 123456". The AVM 50v powers up, then the dispaly flashes for a few seconds then the unit shuts off and I get a message saying "measurement procedure failed, failed to find microphone calibration files for unit with serial number 123456".


I thought the calibration files are on the ARC cd I installed? Whats going on here? I get this result using Custom mode or standard mode.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17218104
> 
> 
> I need some help guys. I'm having a problem running ARC.
> 
> 
> I have everything hooked up properly. I ran the ARC cd on my laptop (running Vista 64 bit) and it went well. When I start the ARC procedure, I get a message saying "found unit with serial number 123456". The AVM 50v powers up, then the dispaly flashes for a few seconds then the unit shuts off and I get a message saying "measurement procedure failed, failed to find microphone calibration files for unit with serial number 123456".
> 
> 
> I thought the calibration files are on the ARC cd I installed? Whats going on here? I get this result using Custom mode or standard mode.



Check in Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction. In there you should find the ARC application which you installed along with 2 files with names made up of numbers.


Confirm that the numbers are made up of the serial number of your AVM 50v and the serial number of your ARC mic.


If the numbers don't match then give Anthem tech support a call and they can email you the correct pair of files.


If the numbers do match, then double check that you are running the installed copy of the ARC application and not some other copy you might have on your drive. The installer puts a shortcut on your desktop to make this easy.


If still no luck, give Anthem tech support a call so they can walk you through uninstalling and re-installing the ARC stuff.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Ralph,


I have tried the following discs and the results I got.


Flight of the Phoenix DTS-MA got back channel sound

Harry Potter HDDVD TrueHD no sound

Stalingrad HDDVD DTS-MA got sound

Pianist HDDVD DTS-MA no SURROUND sound AT ALL

Fifth Element TrueHD or PCM no sound

Chronicles of Riddick DTS-MA got sound

Quite the potpourri. I am clearly getting a diff result with my setup.

John


----------



## studlygoorite

I'm going to pick up my new Anthem Statement D2v tomorrow and it is replacing my Denon 3808. I have the Paradigm S8s, the C5 and the 15" Servo sub with 2 MCA 50s bi-amped. Question is what should I look forward to noticing once I hook this bad boy up?


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17218104
> 
> 
> I need some help guys. I'm having a problem running ARC.
> 
> 
> I have everything hooked up properly. I ran the ARC cd on my laptop (running Vista 64 bit) and it went well. When I start the ARC procedure, I get a message saying "found unit with serial number 123456". The AVM 50v powers up, then the dispaly flashes for a few seconds then the unit shuts off and I get a message saying "measurement procedure failed, failed to find microphone calibration files for unit with serial number 123456".
> 
> 
> I thought the calibration files are on the ARC cd I installed? Whats going on here? I get this result using Custom mode or standard mode.



My not relate to your situation but I recently received the ARC upgrade kit for our AVM50... installed the hardware and after installing the ARC software using the provided CD I noticed that the installer did NOT install the two files specific to the serial number of the AVM50... I had to manually copy those two files from the CD to the computer.


----------



## dryeye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm* /forum/post/17219535
> 
> 
> My not relate to your situation but I recently received the ARC upgrade kit for our AVM50... installed the hardware and after installing the ARC software using the provided CD I noticed that the installer did NOT install the two files specific to the serial number of the AVM50... I had to manually copy those two files from the CD to the computer.



I also had this same install experience with a new D2v last week. That unit had other issues, prolly damaged during shipping, so I never got to run the ARC. Yesterday I recieved a replacement unit and guess what? Same 2 files were not installed. Manually copying them off the install cd to the Anthem folder did the trick.


----------



## jayray

I have a similar speaker setup so you are going to experience what it is like to be immersed in the sound as opposed to listening to it. Detail and sound stage will increase. Nothing short of phenomenal. Of course this assumes ARC will be employed. I went from a Denon 3803 to an AVM50 with ARC and the diff was huge. I now have a D2v and the diff is also quite apparent. You won't regret it.

John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17219648
> 
> 
> I have a similar speaker setup so you are going to experience what it is like to be immersed in the sound as opposed to listening to it. Detail and sound stage will increase. Nothing short of phenomenal. Of course this assumes ARC will be employed. I went from a Denon 3803 to an AVM50 with ARC and the diff was huge. I now have a D2v and the diff is also quite apparent. You won't regret it.
> 
> John



Thanks for the input, now looking forward to it even more.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17219945
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input, now looking forward to it even more.



Who are you getting it from?

John


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17218154
> 
> 
> Check in Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction. In there you should find the ARC application which you installed along with 2 files with names made up of numbers.
> 
> 
> Confirm that the numbers are made up of the serial number of your AVM 50v and the serial number of your ARC mic.
> 
> 
> If the numbers don't match then give Anthem tech support a call and they can email you the correct pair of files.
> 
> 
> If the numbers do match, then double check that you are running the installed copy of the ARC application and not some other copy you might have on your drive. The installer puts a shortcut on your desktop to make this easy.
> 
> 
> If still no luck, give Anthem tech support a call so they can walk you through uninstalling and re-installing the ARC stuff.
> 
> --Bob



I have the ARC application but am missing the 2 files. How do I manually get the files off the CD and onto the ARC folder? I'm not that computer savy.


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17216759
> 
> 
> When you received your AVM50v did it come with the correct serial cable ?
> 
> 
> Regards,



Hi Ralph. Yes I got the right serial cable.


Another question, I checked the firmware on my AVM 50v and it stated 2.07. How do I know if I have version 2.07a, b, c, d or e? Would 2.07a show up on the front display?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17220475
> 
> 
> I have the ARC application but am missing the 2 files. How do I manually get the files off the CD and onto the ARC folder? I'm not that computer savy.



You should be able to view the contents of the CD as just another disc drive by double clicking on it in My Computer for example.


Find those two files on the ARC CD and drag and drop them into the folder I mentioned: Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction. They should end up in the same folder as the installed ARC application program itself.


---------------------------------------------


The question now is why they didn't get installed to begin with. Did you install ARC using the installer program on the CD or did you download ARC from the Anthem web site and use that as the installer? The downloaded version won't have your personal calibration/licensing file pair of course. It assumes you've previously installed them using the CD version. (You need to install from the CD first and then update that with a new downloaded version when a newer one shows up.)


If you ran the installer from the CD and those two files still didn't get installed then something is wrong with your ARC install CD. You should probably call Anthem tech support so they can double check it. Perhaps manufacturing has sent out a few that don't have the files in the right place.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17218922
> 
> 
> Ralph,
> 
> 
> I have tried the following discs and the results I got.
> 
> 
> Flight of the Phoenix DTS-MA got back channel sound
> 
> Harry Potter HDDVD TrueHD no sound
> 
> Stalingrad HDDVD DTS-MA got sound
> 
> Pianist HDDVD DTS-MA no SURROUND sound AT ALL
> 
> Fifth Element TrueHD or PCM no sound
> 
> Chronicles of Riddick DTS-MA got sound
> 
> Quite the potpourri. I am clearly getting a diff result with my setup.
> 
> John



Greetings,


Thanks for checking John. I spent some time talking with Nick this morning about this issue and one or two others. There is clearly something amiss and I expect they will look at it.


Regards,


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17219393
> 
> 
> I'm going to pick up my new Anthem Statement D2v tomorrow and it is replacing my Denon 3808. I have the Paradigm S8s, the C5 and the 15" Servo sub with 2 MCA 50s bi-amped. Question is what should I look forward to noticing once I hook this bad boy up?



I upgraded from a Denon 4802 to the AVM30 to the D2 over the last few years. With all of them I used S4's (front and surrounds), C3, and Signature ADP's with SVS subs. Atlthough its not exactly the same as your system, its fairly similar. I think I can say you will be very happy.

What you will notice first is the jump in audio performance. My guess is you will say things like "Oh, Wow", "I never heard that before!", "OK honey, I'll turn it down in a minute, just let me finish this song, please". Don't forget that the Anthem's have a built-in head phone amp so , so you can listen to music without bothering others. Movies are best watched and listened to in surround over speakers at an appropriatly loud volume, so you will need to work this out with your significant other(s).

Whatever worries you may have about your purchase will quickly fade away after your first experience, and will be re-inforced every time you use it there after.

As I said, I have the D2. Many who have upgraded from the D2 to the D2v have commented on an improvement in audio, so your experience going from the denon to the D2v may be better than mine.

Hook it up, get ARC working, fasten your seatbelt and enjoy!!


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/17216819
> 
> 
> I experineced exactly the same issues with the D2! I was getting the good picture only when connecting the Xtreamer directly to the TV. But then I have changed something into the D2 panel (using the button 7 on the remote)...I think it was the color setting from Automatic towards RGB...and the problem was solved I will check tonight ...



Forcing the Input Color Space did the trick. Now to figure out why it doesn't see the D2v as 1080p compatible.


----------



## dmusoke

Hi all:


I need to be able to manually generate a single frequency tone for tests I'm doing on my system with the 50v. I would, say, generate a 20hz tone, perform some measurements and then move on to the next frequency and so on until I'm finished. I'm not sure how to do this in the 50v. I need to find the best place to place my subwoofer in my living room. I tried the crawling-on-all-fours test and thought I found the optimum place but then running ARC showed my sub's peak changed from 30Hz to 40Hz(!) which is not what I want. My plan was to set the first frequency at 20Hz then look for places around my living room to give me the maximum SPL at that frequency. I'd then move on to 25Hz and repeat the test until say 50Hz. I know my sub is rated and was tested at 20Hz (+/-3dB) so I know I can get that low but my tests so far show poor performance at these low frequencies.


I'm trying to use the "Room Resonance Filter" section, but getting a single frequency has alluded me. Any help anyone can provide is welcome.


Thanks,

David


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17220847
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking John. I spent some time talking with Nick this morning about this issue and one or two others. There is clearly something amiss and I expect they will look at it.
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,

Just came up from the HT and tested the following:


Serenity DTS-MA Rears work

Harry Potter PCM Rears don't work

Cloverfield TrueHD Rears don't work

Transformers TrueHD Rears don't work

Ratatouille PCM Rears don't work

Alien vs. Pred DTS-MA Rears Work


John


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17220602
> 
> 
> You should be able to view the contents of the CD as just another disc drive by double clicking on it in My Computer for example.
> 
> 
> Find those two files on the ARC CD and drag and drop them into the folder I mentioned: Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction. They should end up in the same folder as the installed ARC application program itself.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The question now is why they didn't get installed to begin with. Did you install ARC using the installer program on the CD or did you download ARC from the Anthem web site and use that as the installer? The downloaded version won't have your personal calibration/licensing file pair of course. It assumes you've previously installed them using the CD version. (You need to install from the CD first and then update that with a new downloaded version when a newer one shows up.)
> 
> 
> If you ran the installer from the CD and those two files still didn't get installed then something is wrong with your ARC install CD. You should probably call Anthem tech support so they can double check it. Perhaps manufacturing has sent out a few that don't have the files in the right place.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I'll give that a try when I get home tonight. I used the ARC cd from the beginning and didn't have the 2 files. I will contact Anthem if I have any more difficulties.


----------



## butterbars




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17221519
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I'll give that a try when I get home tonight. I used the ARC cd from the beginning and didn't have the 2 files. I will contact Anthem if I have any more difficulties.



Add me to the list: I got my D2v a couple weeks ago and when I installed ARC from the CD it didn't copy over the 2 calibration files. I found them on the CD, moved them to the ARC folder, and then ARC worked perfectly.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17221184
> 
> 
> Hi all:
> 
> 
> I need to be able to manually generate a single frequency tone for tests I'm doing on my system with the 50v. I would, say, generate a 20hz tone, perform some measurements and then move on to the next frequency and so on until I'm finished. I'm not sure how to do this in the 50v. I need to find the best place to place my subwoofer in my living room. I tried the crawling-on-all-fours test and thought I found the optimum place but then running ARC showed my sub's peak changed from 30Hz to 40Hz(!) which is not what I want. My plan was to set the first frequency at 20Hz then look for places around my living room to give me the maximum SPL at that frequency. I'd then move on to 25Hz and repeat the test until say 50Hz. I know my sub is rated and was tested at 20Hz (+/-3dB) so I know I can get that low but my tests so far show poor performance at these low frequencies.
> 
> 
> I'm trying to use the "Room Resonance Filter" section, but getting a single frequency has alluded me. Any help anyone can provide is welcome.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



The Stereophile test cd has subwoofer test tones


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17221698
> 
> 
> The Stereophile test cd has subwoofer test tones



Thanks thestewman...unfortunately, I do not have one handy. I only have the AIX and DVE disks with me










I'll check out the stereophile disk in a couple of days.


Thanks,

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *butterbars* /forum/post/17221601
> 
> 
> Add me to the list: I got my D2v a couple weeks ago and when I installed ARC from the CD it didn't copy over the 2 calibration files. I found them on the CD, moved them to the ARC folder, and then ARC worked perfectly.



Are you also using 64-bit Vista on your Windows PC?

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/17220872
> 
> 
> I upgraded from a Denon 4802 to the AVM30 to the D2 over the last few years. With all of them I used S4's (front and surrounds), C3, and Signature ADP's with SVS subs. Atlthough its not exactly the same as your system, its fairly similar. I think I can say you will be very happy.
> 
> What you will notice first is the jump in audio performance. My guess is you will say things like "Oh, Wow", "I never heard that before!", "OK honey, I'll turn it down in a minute, just let me finish this song, please". Don't forget that the Anthem's have a built-in head phone amp so , so you can listen to music without bothering others. Movies are best watched and listened to in surround over speakers at an appropriatly loud volume, so you will need to work this out with your significant other(s).
> 
> Whatever worries you may have about your purchase will quickly fade away after your first experience, and will be re-inforced every time you use it there after.
> 
> As I said, I have the D2. Many who have upgraded from the D2 to the D2v have commented on an improvement in audio, so your experience going from the denon to the D2v may be better than mine.
> 
> Hook it up, get ARC working, fasten your seatbelt and enjoy!!



Oh I'm ready, bring it on Anthem. When I purchased my 1st amp I remember the difference in sound in that at low volumes it still sounded powerfull. Looking forward to any such difference like a kid at Xmas.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17220187
> 
> 
> Who are you getting it from?
> 
> John




East Hamilton Radio, just lucked out as when my guy called Paradigm they were out and needed to make more but the last skid had just been put on a truck bound for Buffalo and we were able to get them to pull 2 off of the truck, one for me and one for my brother.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17221184
> 
> 
> Hi all:
> 
> 
> I need to be able to manually generate a single frequency tone for tests I'm doing on my system with the 50v. I would, say, generate a 20hz tone, perform some measurements and then move on to the next frequency and so on until I'm finished. I'm not sure how to do this in the 50v. I need to find the best place to place my subwoofer in my living room. I tried the crawling-on-all-fours test and thought I found the optimum place but then running ARC showed my sub's peak changed from 30Hz to 40Hz(!) which is not what I want. My plan was to set the first frequency at 20Hz then look for places around my living room to give me the maximum SPL at that frequency. I'd then move on to 25Hz and repeat the test until say 50Hz. I know my sub is rated and was tested at 20Hz (+/-3dB) so I know I can get that low but my tests so far show poor performance at these low frequencies.
> 
> 
> I'm trying to use the "Room Resonance Filter" section, but getting a single frequency has alluded me. Any help anyone can provide is welcome.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



The Room Resonance Filter test tones should be your way for doing this in the AVM 50v, but I just tried them and they are indeed broken in "test" V2.07f. It's been a long time since I tried using these so I don't know if they work in "official" V2.07.


I've sent an email to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17223167
> 
> 
> East Hamilton Radio, just lucked out as when my guy called Paradigm they were out and needed to make more but the last skid had just been put on a truck bound for Buffalo and we were able to get them to pull 2 off of the truck, one for me and one for my brother.



Buy a lottery ticket









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*NEED TO MANUALLY COPY 2 FILES FOR ARC INSTALL!*


I just got word from Nick at Anthem that they are aware of the installer problem with installs from the CD of ARC V2.2.


Apparently Microsoft pushed out a "Windows Update" which broke the installer.


The problem affects XP and the 32 and 64 bit versions of Vista.


The workaround is to manually copy the two licensing/calibration files from the ARC install CD after doing the install.


A new version of the ARC installer is about to be issued, but of course that won't help folks who already have a CD with the older installer.


Note that this only affects your first install from the CD. The 2 licensing/calibration files are maintained on disc whenever you download and install a new ARC version from the Anthem web site. Indeed those files are maintained on disc even if you uninstall ARC using Windows Add/Remove Programs.


So once you've got those 2 files in the right place to begin with, you won't need to do it again when new ARC versions come out.


------------------------------------------------------------


The two files in question are your ARC license and your individual ARC microphone calibration data file. The files are easy to spot on the CD because they have names made up of numbers. The number is the combo of your Anthem processor serial number and the serial number of your ARC microphone.


After you do the install, you will find that the installer has placed the ARC application in Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction. Find the ARC program in there and manually copy the 2 licensing/calibration files from the ARC CD into that same location -- i.e., with the installed ARC application.


You will be able to double click on the ARC CD in My Computer and view its contents just like any other disc/folder. Just find the 2 numerically named files and drag and drop them into the same place as the just-installed ARC application.


--------------------------------------------


Note that even if you update to a newer version of ARC from the Anthem web site, the old installer will still be on your original ARC install CD. So if you ever erase your hard drive or move to a new computer, you will need to manually copy these 2 files again when you re-install ARC.


If you have a new version of the ARC install kit downloaded from the Anthem web site, you may find it a bit less confusing to copy the 2 files from the CD into the location in that downloaded folder where the ARC application is found. Then when you run the installer in the newly downloaded version it will copy the 2 licensing/calibration files into Anthem Room Correction as well as the new version of ARC itself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Room Resonance Filter Test Tones*


Just got another reply back from Nick that they are aware of the problem with the Room Resonance Filter test tones and that they believe it is fixed in "test" firmware V2.07g -- which presumably means it will stay fixed in any newer version that comes out soon fixing the various audio problems in V2.07f and V2.07g.


If anyone happens to have V2.07g installed, perhaps you could try the Room Resonance Filter test tones. Set Test mode to Manual and if things are fixed then you should hear different frequencies of test tone when you adjust Test Frequency. If things are not fixed the test tone frequency will NOT change.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New Remote Control*


Nick tells me the new-style remote controls are just starting to come in in volume so they should be showing up in new units.


In addition to the obvious physical changes, the new remote includes pre-programmed control codes for some new devices, most notably some Blu-Ray players. And so it includes the 4 color buttons needed for Blu-Ray.


Folks getting the new remote should also be getting an extra piece of paper in the box with the control codes for selecting these new devices. The method of programming/configuring the new remote is the same as the old remote. See the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick also tells me that they believe they have now tracked down and killed all of the improper, "Null Modem", serial cables that mistakenly got into inventory.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17223498
> 
> 
> Buy a lottery ticket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John




Can't afford one now.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17223569
> 
> *Room Resonance Filter Test Tones*
> 
> 
> Just got another reply back from Nick that they are aware of the problem with the Room Resonance Filter test tones and that they believe it is fixed in "test" firmware V2.07g -- which presumably means it will stay fixed in any newer version that comes out soon fixing the various audio problems in V2.07f and V2.07g.
> 
> 
> If anyone happens to have V2.07g installed, perhaps you could try the Room Resonance Filter test tones. Set Test mode to Manual and if things are fixed then you should hear different frequencies of test tone when you adjust Test Frequency. If things are not fixed the test tone frequency will NOT change.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I still have 2.07g and the test tones put out only one freq. So it is still not fixed.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Please let Nick know that it is still not fixed in V2.07g. Thanks!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just had an exchange with Nick about Dolby Volume.


He says it is working but they are still refining the user interface. He expects it go out as Beta over the next month.


He says the full implementation, as done in the D2v and AVM 50v is VERY processor intensive. This means to me there is essentially no chance it will port to the original D2 or AVM 50.


Apparently it is possible to do a partial implementation. Some processors about to offer it may, I suppose, only have the partial implementation. I don't know whether there is any chance the partial implementation might be possible on the original D2 or AVM 50.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis

I know that no one will definitively know the answer to this question - I am really only asking people to speculate based on their prior experiences with Anthem.


If the upgrade from the D2 to the D2v costs $X, and the eventual upgrade from the D2v to the D3 ends up costing $Y, would you expect that the cost of upgrading from the D2 to the D3 to be $X+Y or something less?


While I appreciate the benefits that the D2v would give me over the D2, I don't think that they are worth the $3500 (not sure this is the exact number) that the upgrades are going for. On the other hand, I'm sure that my current D2 won't be my last processor. If the eventual cost of going from the D2 to the D3 is no less than $X+Y then the only thing I am giving up by upgrading now to the D2v is the time value of the $X, which is not a lot of money (especially in these interest rate environments).


If the answer is that the upgrade cost from the D2 to the D3 will be less than $X+Y - how much less?


Thanks,


David


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17221293
> 
> 
> Ralph,
> 
> Just came up from the HT and tested the following:
> 
> 
> Serenity DTS-MA Rears work
> 
> Harry Potter PCM Rears don't work
> 
> Cloverfield TrueHD Rears don't work
> 
> Transformers TrueHD Rears don't work
> 
> Ratatouille PCM Rears don't work
> 
> Alien vs. Pred DTS-MA Rears Work
> 
> 
> John



John,


I reinstalled 2.07g and my findings now match yours exactly. I will touch base with Nick again.


Regards,


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17224338
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> I reinstalled 2.07g and my findings now match yours exactly. I will touch base with Nick again.
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,

I like it better when we all get the same bad results









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/17224275
> 
> 
> I know that no one will definitively know the answer to this question - I am really only asking people to speculate based on their prior experiences with Anthem.
> 
> 
> If the upgrade from the D2 to the D2v costs $X, and the eventual upgrade from the D2v to the D3 ends up costing $Y, would you expect that the cost of upgrading from the D2 to the D3 to be $X+Y or something less?
> 
> 
> While I appreciate the benefits that the D2v would give me over the D2, I don't think that they are worth the $3500 (not sure this is the exact number) that the upgrades are going for. On the other hand, I'm sure that my current D2 won't be my last processor. If the eventual cost of going from the D2 to the D3 is no less than $X+Y then the only thing I am giving up by upgrading now to the D2v is the time value of the $X, which is not a lot of money (especially in these interest rate environments).
> 
> 
> If the answer is that the upgrade cost from the D2 to the D3 will be less than $X+Y - how much less?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David



Whatever a D3 really turns out to be -- and the recent rumors don't appear to hold water -- odds are it won't actually use any parts from a D2. So we are almost certainly talking a trade-in program as opposed to reworking an old unit into a new unit as an upgrade.


I've got no idea whether Anthem actually recoups any value from units traded in. Assuming not, or that it is minimal, I would STILL expect the trade-in from a D2v to be cheaper than from a D2 simply to reward customers who stepped up to a D2v. But there's no way to guess what the delta might be.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/17224275
> 
> 
> I know that no one will definitively know the answer to this question - I am really only asking people to speculate based on their prior experiences with Anthem.
> 
> 
> If the upgrade from the D2 to the D2v costs $X, and the eventual upgrade from the D2v to the D3 ends up costing $Y, would you expect that the cost of upgrading from the D2 to the D3 to be $X+Y or something less?
> 
> 
> While I appreciate the benefits that the D2v would give me over the D2, I don't think that they are worth the $3500 (not sure this is the exact number) that the upgrades are going for. On the other hand, I'm sure that my current D2 won't be my last processor. If the eventual cost of going from the D2 to the D3 is no less than $X+Y then the only thing I am giving up by upgrading now to the D2v is the time value of the $X, which is not a lot of money (especially in these interest rate environments).
> 
> 
> If the answer is that the upgrade cost from the D2 to the D3 will be less than $X+Y - how much less?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David



Maybe the D3, if it ever appears, will be such a radical change there cannot be an upgrade.

In such a case it might require the big investment of trading in the D2 or D2v.


Bob

Didn't read down far enough to realize you and I had similiar answers

Stew


----------



## Janski

Hi Bob,


I plan to purchase an Anthem Statement D2v this week to compliment my P5. (Replacing a Denon) News that a D3 might be so different would be a concern, as a significant selling feature is the potential lifecycle of the unit extended via S/W and H/W updates.


However, rumours and odds are in my mind outweighed by the fact I believe this unit and its younger brother the AVM50v to be the best value on the market for my ears.


I'll just place my trust in the great company Anthem will take care of us as they have you. Until then, keep the factoids, opinions and discussion flowing!


Take Care,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More on Dolby Volume:


I got a chance to see a preview, draft copy of the new Manual text for the upcoming Dolby Volume feature. It looks pretty straightforward at this point.


In Setup > Level Calibration there is a new "Dolby Offset" line -- usually left at 0dB, which can be used to manually set a reference 75dB level for the Dolby stuff -- apparently for when you aren't using that as your normal reference level. You don't have to bother with this if you use ARC -- ARC takes care of it.


In Setup > Source Setup for each Source there are three new items. First there is an item to turn Dolby Volume on. Choices are Movie, Music and OFF, with somewhat different parameters set under the covers for Movie and Music.


Dolby Volume includes special volume compensation for low and high frequencies as well as over-all volume leveling. You can separately control how aggressively the volume leveling function operates with the Dolby Leveling setting. You have the choice of OFF and 10 steps. If Leveling is set to OFF the Dolby Volume frequency based volume adjustments still happen (assuming Dolby Volume itself is set to MOVIE or MUSIC).


So for example you might use more aggressive volume leveling when watching TV (kill off those commercials) than when watching movies from a disc but you would still get the frequency based adjustment either way. The default Leveling setting is "9" (mandated by Dolby) -- pretty aggressive -- so this is the one control you will likely want to play with until you find your preferred setting for each type of source and content.


There is a third item called "Half Mode" -- apparently the terminology comes from Dolby. Half Mode ON is described as making the Dolby Volume frequency based volume adjustments only apply when audio is playing below "reference levels". The (strongly) recommended setting for Half Mode is ON. Half Mode ON is also the factory default. "Reference levels" here refers to the combo of audio content input level and current volume setting and basically means things are playing loud enough that the frequency extremes are audible anyway. Different under the covers parameters apply to this for Movie and Music.


Dolby Volume processing only applies to the Main path.


The Dynamics button has been changed. Press it once and use Up/Down arrow to view/change Dolby Volume ON/OFF. If Dolby Volume is ON, the settings in Setup > Source Setup apply. If Dolby Volume is OFF, press Dynamics a 2nd time to view change the older style Dynamics adjustment that applies to certain DD and DTS tracks that contain Dynamic Range Control meta-data.


NOTE: For best results, disable any Dynamic Range Control or audio gain processing in each of your Source devices. Let Dolby Volume in the Anthem do all the work.


All the other parameters are apparently set under the covers by Anthem. I'm sensing quite a lot of excitement from these guys as to how well this stuff is working. It will be interesting to see what we get in the first Beta.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17223256
> 
> 
> The Room Resonance Filter test tones should be your way for doing this in the AVM 50v, but I just tried them and they are indeed broken in "test" V2.07f. It's been a long time since I tried using these so I don't know if they work in "official" V2.07.
> 
> 
> I've sent an email to Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob...I'm using the official 2.07 and as i indicated before, its broken for it seems I'm getting random noise instead of a test signal. In the meantime, I ended up downloading a free software based audio signal generator and using it via the HDMI output of my laptop into the 50v's HMDI inputs and it works







!


Thanks,

David


BTW, which unofficial "test" 2.07x version is safe and reliable to install. I have a 5.1 audio system.


Another thing, with my official 2.07 version, I've found the HDMI handshakes a lot faster after I changed my TV from the old 2001 DVI based Sony RPTV to my new Pioneer plasma, making ARC/no-ARC audio comparisons more meaningful.


----------



## bluemark81

I just ordered a D2v and I'm wondering if I can save my settings from my AVM50 and then upload them into the D2v?


----------



## jayray

Bob,

If you don't watch TV or have young children and don't live in an apartment, what else would you use it for?

John


----------



## Texas steve

He answers all our questions!! Over and over again!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17226178
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> If you don't watch TV or have young children and don't live in an apartment, what else would you use it for?
> 
> John


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17225312
> 
> 
> More on Dolby Volume:
> 
> 
> I got a chance to see a preview, draft copy of the new Manual text for the upcoming Dolby Volume feature. It looks pretty straightforward at this point.



Thanks for the comprehensive overview Bob. I am glad that this is implemented on a per-source basis as TV seems to be my prime application for this.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17226363
> 
> 
> He answers all our questions!! Over and over again!



Perhaps then, you can answer my question.









John


----------



## fuzzybk

Thanks for the help guys. I manualy copied my 2 files over to the ARC folder and everything ran as it should.










This is my first experience with any kind of room correction and I have to say, ARC does a fantastic job.


The sound is just so crisp and detailed. Dialogue from my centre channel appears to come out of nowhere. Very impressed. Whether 2 channel or 5.1the sound is definately improved.


Regarding ARC, I noticed that I left the Max EQ frequency at 5000. Can I just change the value to 20000 and then tell ARC to calculate again and then apply it to the AVM 50v? Or do I have to go through the whole process again with the 5 positions and run ARC again?


How can I post my ARC results for you guys to look over?


Once again AVS Forum members are a wealth of knowledge. You guys ROCK!!!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17226178
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> If you don't watch TV or have young children and don't live in an apartment, what else would you use it for?
> 
> John



I presume you are asking about Dolby Volume!










Well some films have way more dynamics in their audio track than I enjoy. You could use Dolby Volume to tame that. The whole idea is that it is supposed to be particularly clever at doing this so that you don't distort the quality of the track when re-leveling it.


But really, we're just going to have to wait and see what folks come up with when we finally get our hands on it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17226803
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help guys. I manualy copied my 2 files over to the ARC folder and everything ran as it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first experience with any kind of room correction and I have to say, ARC does a fantastic job.
> 
> 
> The sound is just so crisp and detailed. Dialogue from my centre channel appears to come out of nowhere. Very impressed. Whether 2 channel or 5.1the sound is definately improved.
> 
> 
> Regarding ARC, I noticed that I left the Max EQ frequency at 5000. Can I just change the value to 20000 and then tell ARC to calculate again and then apply it to the AVM 50v? Or do I have to go through the whole process again with the 5 positions and run ARC again?
> 
> 
> How can I post my ARC results for you guys to look over?
> 
> 
> Once again AVS Forum members are a wealth of knowledge. You guys ROCK!!!!!!



You don't have to re-Measure to try different Max EQ Frequency target values.


Just re-Calculate, and if the resulting charts look good to you, do a new Upload and give it a listen.


Basically you want to check to be sure that telling ARC to correct up there isn't diminishing the quality of its result at lower frequencies -- more wobbles in the green Calculated curve.


As for whether the higher setting is "better", trust your ears. You'll easily pick up problems at high frequencies if they exist (due to speaker directionality issues or whatever).


-------------------------------------------------


Look in Windows Help for the key combo for Screen Capture Active Window. That will capture an image into the clipboard. What I do is Paste that into Windows Paint (bundled with Windows) and then Save As using the JPEG file format to keep the file size small. You can then upload the image file to AVS as part of your post so that you don't have to keep the image file on your computer.


You can't capture all the charts in one window full so get the top, and then scroll down the window and get the bottom. The ARC View menu lets you switch to viewing your Music configuration charts -- 2 more image captures. And finally nab the Targets window. So 5 JPEG files in all.


The Attach Files option just below the text type in box here will let you upload 3 of those and then let you upload the other 2. Use the Preview Post button to make sure it is working the way you expect before you Submit Reply.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17225788
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob...I'm using the official 2.07 and as i indicated before, its broken for it seems I'm getting random noise instead of a test signal. In the meantime, I ended up downloading a free software based audio signal generator and using it via the HDMI output of my laptop into the 50v's HMDI inputs and it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David
> 
> 
> BTW, which unofficial "test" 2.07x version is safe and reliable to install. I have a 5.1 audio system.
> 
> 
> Another thing, with my official 2.07 version, I've found the HDMI handshakes a lot faster after I changed my TV from the old 2001 DVI based Sony RPTV to my new Pioneer plasma, making ARC/no-ARC audio comparisons more meaningful.



I'm using V2.07f with my 5.1 speaker system, and find it better than "official" V2.07. V2.07g has problems handling 7.1 input tracks properly for a 5.1 speaker system. As it turns out V2.07f also has problems handling 5.1 input tracks for a 7.1 speaker system. Go figur....


NEITHER of these is "safe" to install. Both come with the *SCARY WARNING!* If the install fails while the video board is being programmed you may have no recourse but to return the unit to the Anthem factory for corrective reprogramming. That means you have to feel confident that your install computer and serial connection are reliable before attempting either of these "test" firmware installs.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17226097
> 
> 
> I just ordered a D2v and I'm wondering if I can save my settings from my AVM50 and then upload them into the D2v?



Yes, everything but your ARC setup. This is true even coming from an AVM 50 as opposed to an AVM 50v.


Use SettingsBackup utility to save and restore your Setup menu settings via a PC file.


Use LiveVideoSettingsEditor utility to save and restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file.


Both will be found in the Utilities folder in your ARC install kit (or download ARC V2.2 from the Anthem site).


The ARC settings are keyed to the serial number of the processor so you can't apply them to your new D2v. You will have to redo ARC from scratch including new Measurements.


I don't know if Anthem is shipping new ARC kits to trade-in customers who already have ARC. If not, they will need to send you a new pair of licensing/calibration files to match the serial number of your new D2v. (You will STILL need to re-Measure.)


If they DO send you a new kit (for example if you are keeping your AVM 50 as well), be careful not to get the 2 ARC mics confused. You must use the ARC mic that comes with the new D2v so that it is matched to the proper calibration file for the D2v. ARC is not able to warn you if you screw up and use the wrong mic by mistake.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" ARC V2.3 Now Up on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem has updated their password protected download page with a new version of ARC this afternoon, addressing the installer problem we were just discussing. Change notes for "test" ARC V2.3 for changes since "official" ARC V2.2 read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.3 beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for Windows installer which as of Sep. 2009 stopped installing serialized mic calibration and license files.
> 
> 
> 2. One mic per preamp restriction lifted. If you have serialized files for multiple units, ARC will ask which mic you're using before running a measurement. The files pertaining to the mic are still required to ensure that its frequency response is known.



Note that you still have to have the licensing/calibration files installed to get proper calibration. ARC V2.3 simply lets you install more than one pair if you have more than one mic.

*Also note that it is up to you to insure that you are using the ARC mic you have told ARC you are using!* The ARC application can tell whether you have an ARC mic plugged in, as opposed to any other USB mic, but ARC can *NOT* tell if you have the *CORRECT* ARC mic plugged in.


There are no audio changes in ARC V2.3, so no need to re-Measure. You can use ARC V2.3 to Upload results from prior ARC versions at least as far back as ARC V2.1.


Presumably ARC V2.3 will become "official" quite soon -- as soon as they change over to it in manufacturing.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17226812
> 
> 
> I presume you are asking about Dolby Volume!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well some films have way more dynamics in their audio track than I enjoy. You could use Dolby Volume to tame that. The whole idea is that it is supposed to be particularly clever at doing this so that you don't distort the quality of the track when re-leveling it.
> 
> 
> But really, we're just going to have to wait and see what folks come up with when we finally get our hands on it.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob and yes I was asking about Dolby Volume.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is a minor error in "test" ARC V2.3. If you select About from its Help menu it incorrectly identifies itself as ARC V2.2.


If you right-click on the application itself and select Properties and then Version, the V2.3 is shown, so I'm sure it is just that the ID text didn't get updated -- a minor error.


I've let Anthem know.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17226943
> 
> 
> Yes, everything but your ARC setup. This is true even coming from an AVM 50 as opposed to an AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> Use SettingsBackup utility to save and restore your Setup menu settings via a PC file.
> 
> 
> Use LiveVideoSettingsEditor utility to save and restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings via a PC file.
> 
> 
> Both will be found in the Utilities folder in your ARC install kit (or download ARC V2.2 from the Anthem site).
> 
> 
> The ARC settings are keyed to the serial number of the processor so you can't apply them to your new D2v. You will have to redo ARC from scratch including new Measurements.
> 
> 
> I don't know if Anthem is shipping new ARC kits to trade-in customers who already have ARC. If not, they will need to send you a new pair of licensing/calibration files to match the serial number of your new D2v. (You will STILL need to re-Measure.)
> 
> 
> If they DO send you a new kit (for example if you are keeping your AVM 50 as well), be careful not to get the 2 ARC mics confused. You must use the ARC mic that comes with the new D2v so that it is matched to the proper calibration file for the D2v. ARC is not able to warn you if you screw up and use the wrong mic by mistake.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Thanks as usual, and as usual, I do have additional questions.


First, my AVM50 currently has v1.33 with v2.01 ARC.


When I use the Anthem Settings Backup Utility, do I simply connect the AVM50 and then press the Create Backup File button when I run the backup application? Does it ask me to name the file? To load the stored settings back onto the D2v, I assume I press the "UPLOAD BACKUP FILE TO PROCESSOR" button.


When I use the Live Video Settings Editor Utility, do I press the"CONNECT" followed by "GET" buttons to retrieve all my video settings from my AVM50? Then I suspect I press "SAVE". Does it ask me to name the file? To load them back to the D2v, I suspect I press the "CONNECT" followed by the "LOAD" button?


I am selling the AVM50 privately as opposed to keeping it or trading it in. I am sending it back to Anthem first to correct the screeching issue I get when I switch between HDMI sources.


Thanks


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17213310
> 
> 
> As pointed out above, you've got a nasty >20dB swing between 30Hz and 60Hz in the Measured response for your Sub. That's more than ARC can correct and the hole it leaves either side of 60Hz is deep enough and wide enough in frequency that it really should be addressed.
> 
> 
> Start by relocating your Sub -- even inches matter at these frequencies. I suggest moving it further away from the nearest wall/corner. If you can't find a new location that improves how the Sub is coupling to the room, you should look into adding bass traps to the walls/corner behind it to kill off some off the bass reflections. If you can clean up about half the problem this way, ARC will take care of the rest.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------
> 
> 
> Your Side surround speakers remain your weakest speakers. The limitation in their bass probably can only be addressed by replacing them. The high frequency limitation may respond well to repointing them.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------
> 
> 
> Why did you raise the limit to only 12KHz? Did you see or hear problems when you raised it higher?
> 
> --Bob



I will try moving the sub and re-measuring.


As for the side surrounds, I am not sure what the issue is. They are new Triad Silver/4 Surrounds, so I am leary to just arbitrarily replace them. They are dipoles with a woofer and it may be worthwhile just to re-orient them 180 degrees and see what happens.


I raised the limit to 12kHz because I read in a post early on in this thread that you (Bob) used that as your limit. I will experiment with various limits up to 20kHz and see what it does.


Thanks...


Aram


----------



## jayray

The beta ARC released today 2.3, shows as 2.2 when installed, in the About menu. Will email Nick.

John


----------



## vengazor

Bob and crew, I'm trying to do some video calibration. My Blu Ray player is a Denon 3800 bdci.


When I try to set the player to output video my choices are YCbCr or RGB (studio or enhanced)


I wanted to have YCbCr set, but the color space comes in looking reversed. RGB is the only option that looks correct and I have it set at studio so that the D2v does minimal processing and my Pioneer 151fd will do most of the video work.


Is there a reason why I cannot get the YCbCr ouput to work correctly on the Anthem that I am overlooking? The video connection is HDMI.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17227624
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks as usual, and as usual, I do have additional questions.
> 
> 
> First, my AVM50 currently has v1.33 with v2.01 ARC.
> 
> 
> When I use the Anthem Settings Backup Utility, do I simply connect the AVM50 and then press the Create Backup File button when I run the backup application? Does it ask me to name the file? To load the stored settings back onto the D2v, I assume I press the "UPLOAD BACKUP FILE TO PROCESSOR" button.
> 
> 
> When I use the Live Video Settings Editor Utility, do I press the"CONNECT" followed by "GET" buttons to retrieve all my video settings from my AVM50? Then I suspect I press "SAVE". Does it ask me to name the file? To load them back to the D2v, I suspect I press the "CONNECT" followed by the "LOAD" button?
> 
> 
> I am selling the AVM50 privately as opposed to keeping it or trading it in. I am sending it back to Anthem first to correct the screeching issue I get when I switch between HDMI sources.
> 
> 
> Thanks



The answers are yes to all those questions with one correction. To restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings using Live Video Settings Editor, you *OPEN* your PC file of saved settings and then do the Load.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17227891
> 
> 
> The beta ARC released today 2.3, shows as 2.2 when installed, in the About menu. Will email Nick.
> 
> John



Beat you by 1 hour!









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17227735
> 
> 
> I will try moving the sub and re-measuring.
> 
> 
> As for the side surrounds, I am not sure what the issue is. They are new Triad Silver/4 Surrounds, so I am leary to just arbitrarily replace them. They are dipoles with a woofer and it may be worthwhile just to re-orient them 180 degrees and see what happens.
> 
> 
> I raised the limit to 12kHz because I read in a post early on in this thread that you (Bob) used that as your limit. I will experiment with various limits up to 20kHz and see what it does.
> 
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> 
> Aram



Ah! The 12KHz value discussed quite some time back was a number picked out of thin air back when we were trying to decide if it was safe at all to raise that Target. I think even Anthem was surprised at how many people got great results by raising that.


Try 20KHz and back off from there if it seems to be giving you problems in the lower frequencies of the Calculated curves.


I don't really have any good suggestions to offer you on the Surrounds beyond making sure the Woofers are wired and firing and that the vertical pointing seems good.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17227947
> 
> 
> Bob and crew, I'm trying to do some video calibration. My Blu Ray player is a Denon 3800 bdci.
> 
> 
> When I try to set the player to output video my choices are YCbCr or RGB (studio or enhanced)
> 
> 
> I wanted to have YCbCr set, but the color space comes in looking reversed. RGB is the only option that looks correct and I have it set at studio so that the D2v does minimal processing and my Pioneer 151fd will do most of the video work.
> 
> 
> Is there a reason why I cannot get the YCbCr ouput to work correctly on the Anthem that I am overlooking? The video connection is HDMI.



I don't know enough about that Denon to help you, but I DO know that Denon is notorious for having confusing user setting menus. Some settings like the data format choice are in two places in their menus, one intended for Component and one intended for HDMI, and you have to find the place that actually applies to HDMI output to get the settings to take proper effect.


Try hooking the player directly to the display and see if you can get YCbCr to work.

--Bob


----------



## vengazor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17228023
> 
> 
> I don't know enough about that Denon to help you, but I DO know that Denon is notorious for having confusing user setting menus. Some settings like the data format choice are in two places in their menus, one intended for Component and one intended for HDMI, and you have to find the place that actually applies to HDMI output to get the settings to take proper effect.
> 
> 
> Try hooking the player directly to the display and see if you can get YCbCr to work.
> 
> --Bob



Is there a picture quality difference or mode that is better for the D2v processor when i compare YCbCr to RGB. I believe everything gets converted to RGB in the end of what is sent to the plasma, so is it better for the Blu Ray player to send that RGB info anyway so that information isn't converted more times than necessary? or is YCbCr a better source to come from the blu ray player?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I recommend you use YCbCr for HDMI to HDMI connections unless some bug prevents you from doing so. Failing that, use Studio RGB. The D2v and AVM 50v use high precision math for color space conversion, so don't be scared off by that prospect.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17227974
> 
> 
> Beat you by 1 hour!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



You know I wondered why I didn't see anything from you Bob, but I should have known









John


----------



## buddy4711




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/17216821
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'd like to know how you resolved the issue... Thanks for checking...
> 
> 
> Edit: Are you able to set the Xtreamer to 1080p60? This and others some up protected when setting the resolution.



I reviewed my settings: press button 7 on the remote for the on-screen menu. In picture/input color space it is probably set to auto, now switch to HDTV YCbCr, also Studio RGB is checked on. If you toggle back into Auto you will see immediately the "false" color hues like green-purple unnatural screen...


On the Xtreamer: A/V setting TV Out: HDMI Auto


1080p60: no, it allows only up to 1080i60 currently AFAIK, but the D2 converts i60 into p60 perfectly. I also have swithed 24p mode off on the Xtreamer.


hope this helps


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/17229254
> 
> 
> I reviewed my settings: press button 7 on the remote for the on-screen menu. In picture/input color space it is probably set to auto, now switch to HDTV YCbCr, also Studio RGB is checked on. If you toggle back into Auto you will see immediately the "false" color hues like green-purple unnatural screen...
> 
> 
> On the Xtreamer: A/V setting TV Out: HDMI Auto
> 
> 
> 1080p60: no, it allows only up to 1080i60 currently AFAIK, but the D2 converts i60 into p60 perfectly. I also have swithed 24p mode off on the Xtreamer.
> 
> 
> hope this helps



These are the exact same settings that I ended up with. Thanks for checking... I'll wait for the Xtreamer 2.0 FW coming out next month to see if the issues have addressed on their side. I've heard that are similar problems with connecting it to Denon equipment.


----------



## abc999

Just reverted back to the LPCM output mode of my Oppo BDp83 as the bitstream decoding via AVM50v2 is broken. It is very unstable and the results varies from disc to disc. Firmware is 2.07f


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17229868
> 
> 
> Just reverted back to the LPCM output mode of my Oppo BDp83 as the bitstream decoding via AVM50v2 is broken. It is very unstable and the results varies from disc to disc. Firmware is 2.07f



Greetings,


What sort of problems are you experiencing?



Regards,


----------



## fuzzybk

Here are my ARC results. Tell me what you think guys.


----------



## Texas steve

Have a couple of questions and help would be greatly appreciated.

*Video - set up =* HDMI in from DTV 1080P, HDMI out is going to Projector via HDMI out 1

1. Given the above can I output from the D2v via Component and set it to 720P to a TV?


2. Given the above, can I configure the second HDMI out (TV) to 720P and as long as that TV is NOT on will HDMI one output 1080P?

*Audio Set up=*I have a 5.1 system and did ARC with movies, set as all small speakers with a sub.


Question: I notice that on 5.1 source material it shows incoming LFE, but when I look at my output on the D2v it states "sub", how do I get LFE?


thanks guys!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17230193
> 
> 
> Have a couple of questions and help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> *Video - set up =* HDMI in from DTV 1080P, HDMI out is going to Projector via HDMI out 1
> 
> 1. Given the above can I output from the D2v via Component and set it to 720P to a TV?
> 
> 
> 2. Given the above, can I configure the second HDMI out (TV) to 720P and as long as that TV is NOT on will HDMI one output 1080P?
> 
> *Audio Set up=*I have a 5.1 system and did ARC with movies, set as all small speakers with a sub.
> 
> 
> Question: I notice that on 5.1 source material it shows incoming LFE, but when I look at my output on the D2v it states "sub", how do I get LFE?
> 
> 
> thanks guys!



Video: No. You can only get one format of "processed" video at a time so you can't specify different output resolutions on HDMI 1 and HDMI 2. Second, due to copy protection, HDMI input from just about any source can't be output as Component.


If your second TV can not accept 1080p, about your only totally automatic solution is to use Component input from the DTV at 720p. (Also use Component from any other Source you want to do this with.) Scale that up to 1080p for output on HDMI 1 to your projector. Use the Zone 2 Component output with Zone 2 set to output the Unprocessed pass-through of the Component input from whatever is currently selected as the Main path source. You'll get the upscaled 1080p on HDMI 1 and unprocessed 720p on the Zone 2 Component output.


If you don't mind making a setting change when switching between TVs, use HDMI or Component input (any resolution) and set up two Setup > Video Output configurations -- one at 1080p and one at 720p. Hook up the projector on HDMI 1 output and the other TV on HDMI 2 output. Use the shortcut on the remote control to switch between Video Output configurations 1 and 2. When you select the 1080p output configuration the second TV will need to be off. When you select the 720p output configuration, either or both TVs can be on. To make it easier, specify the 720p Video Output configuration as the default for each Source in Setup > Source Setup since that will work for both TVs. Then manually switch to the 1080p Video Output configuration when you are using just the projector.


--------------------------------------------------


Audio: Your audio is already working correctly. The Subwoofer output from the Anthem is a mix of incoming LFE and any bass you have told it to steer from other speakers to the subwoofer. So you are already getting LFE included in the output to your subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17230030
> 
> 
> Here are my ARC results. Tell me what you think guys.



The red Measured curve for your subwoofer looks like you left the internal crossover active in your subwoofer. You want to disable that. If you can't disable it completely, crank it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.


All of your main speakers have a problem at 10KHz. They are Measuring about 13dB down which is quite a lot (more than ARC can correct without stressing the amps and speakers). Indeed ARC is having to do so much correction up there that it looks like it ran out of resources to complete the job for LF/RF.


First double check that all of your speakers are wired correctly and that in fact the tweeter driver in each of them is functioning. Some speakers have separate binding posts for bass and treble, both of which need to be hooked up. Or your speakers may have a frequency response setting that is set wrong. Play some CD content using Stero ALL audio mode and go put your ear up close to the tweeter in each speaker in turn and make sure they are all functioning.


Next double check the pointing of your speakers. If they are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing.


If you have any sort of custom grill covering these speakers, that may also be the source of the problem. For example, make sure none of the grill mounting hardware is in front of the tweeters.


You specified Music as a distinct configuration, although it doesn't look like you specified any difference from Movie. If you don't have a difference you might as well check the box to make it the same. If you are going to use Music, remember that you must also adjust the Max EQ Frequency target value for Music.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17229868
> 
> 
> Just reverted back to the LPCM output mode of my Oppo BDp83 as the bitstream decoding via AVM50v2 is broken. It is very unstable and the results varies from disc to disc. Firmware is 2.07f



How many speakers do you have? If you have more than 5.1 speakers, revert back to "official" firmware V2.07 as there is a known bug for 7.1 speaker output.


What sort of problems are you finding.


Make sure you have Secondary Audio set to OFF in the BDP-83. Make sure you are using at least 720p video output resolution from the BDP-83 whenever you want to play a high bandwidth track.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/17229254
> 
> 
> I reviewed my settings: press button 7 on the remote for the on-screen menu. In picture/input color space it is probably set to auto, now switch to HDTV YCbCr, also Studio RGB is checked on. If you toggle back into Auto you will see immediately the "false" color hues like green-purple unnatural screen...
> 
> 
> On the Xtreamer: A/V setting TV Out: HDMI Auto
> 
> 
> 1080p60: no, it allows only up to 1080i60 currently AFAIK, but the D2 converts i60 into p60 perfectly. I also have swithed 24p mode off on the Xtreamer.
> 
> 
> hope this helps



This is a VERY strange result! The Auto setting in Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space simply switches between HDTV and SDTV math for converting YCbCr to RGB for internal processing based on whether the input resolution is 720p or higher (HDTV) or below that (SDTV). Selecting the HDTV or SDTV setting forces HDTV or SDTV math regardless of the input resolution.


The difference between the two types of color space math is small enough that you won't see it unless you are looking for it (it shows up primarily in greens which will be 15% hot or dull if you are using the wrong math, depending on which way you get it wrong). Using the wrong math will NOT cause color swapping of the type shown in the pictures posted earlier.


And the Source device should have no idea whether or not Auto is set in the Anthem, so it shouldn't be able to get it wrong just because Auto is set.


--------------------------------------


I suspect what is going on here is that the Source is screwing up the handshake by not doing it with the proper timing, and that selecting Auto or not in the Anthem simply changes the response timing of the Anthem just enough to make it work. This might happen if the source is rapidly switching its output resolution for example. Some computer graphics cards are known to screw up this way since the change resolutions rapidly as they go through their boot up process.


In any event, this looks like a problem in HDMI implementation in the Source, and it is just sheer luck that it works as well as it does when you de-select this Auto setting in the Anthem.


-------------------------------------


Look to see if there is a setting in the Source to set explicit YCbCr vs. RGB output as opposed to figuring that out "automatically" during the handshake. That could be the cause of the timing problem in the Source. Set that to explicit YCbCr output and change the setting in the Anthem back to Auto.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17230030
> 
> 
> Here are my ARC results. Tell me what you think guys.



Your main speaker seems to have a big dip a 10KHz. You should check if your midrange speaker is working ok, and that it is not wired out of phase (if you are biwiring or biamping it) or you have not put them too close to one the room boundary that could cause that cancellation.


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob,

When I change the sub, I only get "1 Sub & 2 Sub". How can I get "1 Super"?

Thanks,


----------



## Janski

Hello All,


I'm a proud new d2v owner! Spent my first two hours with her last night (and P5 with XLRs) and did not manage a subwoofer working until I changed the speaker setup to 'Advanced Off' and all speakers to 'small'. Intent is to make it work the best I feel I can and then use ARC and appreciate any difference.


My main enjoyment is derived from Music and I would prefer the Bass Management for music to have a working subwoofer while in Analog Direct. I can also use my Elite CD player's digital output and while I will do a direct comparison - I am fond of the Legato-Link converter in my CD player. (Hence using the analog output.)


I do like having some amount of subwoofer supporting my main channels. Is it possible in Analog Direct? (I feel the sound stage is somewhat muddied in Analog DSP though I will continue reading and adjusting)


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17232032
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> When I change the sub, I only get "1 Sub & 2 Sub". How can I get "1 Super"?
> 
> Thanks,



I believe you must have some speaker set to Large since otherwise 1 Super is the same thing as 1 Sub.


Keep in mind that if you are using ARC you MUST use "1 Sub" regardless of how many subs you have or whether you are running any of the main speakers full range. Picking anything else will break the ARC solution.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/17232308
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> 
> I'm a proud new d2v owner! Spent my first two hours with her last night (and P5 with XLRs) and did not manage a subwoofer working until I changed the speaker setup to 'Advanced Off' and all speakers to 'small'. Intent is to make it work the best I feel I can and then use ARC and appreciate any difference.
> 
> 
> My main enjoyment is derived from Music and I would prefer the Bass Management for music to have a working subwoofer while in Analog Direct. I can also use my Elite CD player's digital output and while I will do a direct comparison - I am fond of the Legato-Link converter in my CD player. (Hence using the analog output.)
> 
> 
> I do like having some amount of subwoofer supporting my main channels. Is it possible in Analog Direct? (I feel the sound stage is somewhat muddied in Analog DSP though I will continue reading and adjusting)
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



First of all, welcome to AVS and welcome to the Cool Kids Thread! I think you are going to have a lot of fun trying the different possible ways of setting things up.


No bass steering can happen in Analog-Direct since that is part of the processing done in the digital domain. Thus the only content that will go to the subwoofer is what comes in on the LFE channel of the 6-channel analog input.


If you want bass steering while using Analog-Direct in the Anthem then it must be done in your Source device for output on its multi-channel analog connectors.


------------------------------------


We've had many people report here that Analog-DSP with ARC processing sounds quite a bit better to them than Analog-Direct (which of course can't include ARC). That is the improvement from ARC greatly outweighs any loss they thought they had by letting the analog input get re-digitized for processing.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17232415
> 
> 
> I believe you must have some speaker set to Large since otherwise 1 Super is the same thing as 1 Sub.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that if you are using ARC you MUST use "1 Sub" regardless of how many subs you have or whether you are running any of the main speakers full range. Picking anything else will break the ARC solution.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.

I have not set any speakers to large. My speaker configuration is an advance mode so I don't know which one is large but the X-Over for FL, FR, & C is 60, for SL & SR is 65 and for sub is 60. When I turn the advance mode off, I see all speakers as Small and also notice a sound difference. Talking to Nick a while back, he mentioned to me that ARC will change the Speaker configuration to Advance. Maybe ARC has decided to make some speakers work as Large. I don't know. Would you let me know if I need to turn the advance mode off with the x-over frquencies I have? Thanks.


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17230887
> 
> 
> The red Measured curve for your subwoofer looks like you left the internal crossover active in your subwoofer. You want to disable that. If you can't disable it completely, crank it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.
> 
> 
> All of your main speakers have a problem at 10KHz. They are Measuring about 13dB down which is quite a lot (more than ARC can correct without stressing the amps and speakers). Indeed ARC is having to do so much correction up there that it looks like it ran out of resources to complete the job for LF/RF.
> 
> 
> First double check that all of your speakers are wired correctly and that in fact the tweeter driver in each of them is functioning. Some speakers have separate binding posts for bass and treble, both of which need to be hooked up. Or your speakers may have a frequency response setting that is set wrong. Play some CD content using Stero ALL audio mode and go put your ear up close to the tweeter in each speaker in turn and make sure they are all functioning.
> 
> 
> Next double check the pointing of your speakers. If they are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing.
> 
> 
> If you have any sort of custom grill covering these speakers, that may also be the source of the problem. For example, make sure none of the grill mounting hardware is in front of the tweeters.
> 
> 
> You specified Music as a distinct configuration, although it doesn't look like you specified any difference from Movie. If you don't have a difference you might as well check the box to make it the same. If you are going to use Music, remember that you must also adjust the Max EQ Frequency target value for Music.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I'll check the sub tonight. With regards to all my speakers, I use Tannoy Eyris dual concentric speakers. I've been told by other Tannoy owners that I should listen to them with the grills off. I leave mine on because I don't want my 2 year old putting his finger through the tweeter.


I am bi wiring my front L/R speakers and I'm pretty sure I have them wired correctly. I'll redo ARC with the speaker grills off and see what happens. If I can't get rid of that nasty drop at 10kHz, should I set the Max EQ freq cuttoff at 10Khz or maybe 8KHz to avoid this problem?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17232501
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> I have not set any speakers to large. My speaker configuration is an advance mode so I don't know which one is large but the X-Over for FL, FR, & C is 60, for SL & SR is 65 and for sub is 60. When I turn the advance mode off, I see all speakers as Small and also notice a sound difference. Talking to Nick a while back, he mentioned to me that ARC will change the Speaker configuration to Advance. Maybe ARC has decided to make some speakers work as Large. I don't know. Would you let me know if I need to turn the advance mode off with the x-over frquencies I have? Thanks.



If you are using ARC you should leave things set the way ARC has Uploaded them.


ARC uses "Advanced" Speaker Configuration settings so that it has the flexibility to apply different crossover values to different speakers. The roll-off provided by the crossovers plays a fundamental part in ARC's solution, and if you fiddle with them the processing provided by the Uploaded Room Correction parameters will no longer be correct since the roll-off is no longer where ARC expects it to be.


When you turn off the "Advanced" settings, ALL Small speakers, and the subwoofer will switch to using a single, common crossover frequency -- thus screwing up ARC's solution.


---------------------------------------------


If you want ARC to treat some speakers as "Large" regardless of what it Measures for their actual performance, check the Full Range box for that speaker in ARC's Targets window, re-Calculate and re-Upload.


Setting Full Range means that ARC will no longer do bass steering from that speaker pair to the subwoofer. ARC will still roll off its Room Correction processing for that speaker pair according to what it Measured (these are the "cutoff" values in the Targets window).


If you want to force ARC to do Room Correction all the way down for a Full Range speaker pair, change the cutoff frequency in the Targets window for that speaker pair to the lowest setting (25Hz).


But understand that there is usually a good reason ARC has chosen a higher value, so if you change it, the results may not be as good.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17232642
> 
> 
> If you are using ARC you should leave things set the way ARC has Uploaded them.
> 
> 
> ARC uses "Advanced" Speaker Configuration settings so that it has the flexibility to apply different crossover values to different speakers. The roll-off provided by the crossovers plays a fundamental part in ARC's solution, and if you fiddle with them the processing provided by the Uploaded Room Correction parameters will no longer be correct since the roll-off is no longer where ARC expects it to be.
> 
> 
> When you turn off the "Advanced" settings, ALL Small speakers, and the subwoofer will switch to using a single, common crossover frequency -- thus screwing up ARC's solution.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you want ARC to treat some speakers as "Large" regardless of what it Measures for their actual performance, check the Full Range box for that speaker in ARC's Targets window, re-Calculate and re-Upload.
> 
> 
> Setting Full Range means that ARC will no longer do bass steering from that speaker pair to the subwoofer. ARC will still roll off its Room Correction processing for that speaker pair according to what it Measured (these are the "cutoff" values in the Targets window).
> 
> 
> If you want to force ARC to do Room Correction all the way down for a Full Range speaker pair, change the cutoff frequency in the Targets window for that speaker pair to the lowest setting (25Hz).
> 
> 
> But understand that there is usually a good reason ARC has chosen a higher value, so if you change it, the results may not be as good.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17232629
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I'll check the sub tonight. With regards to all my speakers, I use Tannoy Eyris dual concentric speakers. I've been told by other Tannoy owners that I should listen to them with the grills off. I leave mine on because I don't want my 2 year old putting his finger through the tweeter.
> 
> 
> I am bi wiring my front L/R speakers and I'm pretty sure I have them wired correctly. I'll redo ARC with the speaker grills off and see what happens. If I can't get rid of that nasty drop at 10kHz, should I set the Max EQ freq cuttoff at 10Khz or maybe 8KHz to avoid this problem?



You are not really getting any problems at lower frequencies by raising it up to 20KHz so there's no point in lowering it. But if you can improve the Measured responses up there, ARC will have more success correcting them the rest of the way.


Your LF/RF, as I recall, were dropping off more than the others BELOW 10KHz, so you may indeed have a wiring or phasing problem with those bi-amped speakers. If you can't fix that otherwise, dropping Max EQ Frequency may free up resources to do a better job of correcting them just below 10KHz, but of course that leaves all the speakers totally uncorrected above there.


Check how the grill mounting hardware is positioned with respect to the midrange and tweeter. If you've got a cross bar over the tweeter for example, that might explain why folks have been reporting these speakers work better with the grills off.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite

I'll be hooking my D2v up on Saturday........after paying much attention to this thread in the past week I was wondering if Bob would like to come over for dinner?










Haven't needed your expertise yet but it is nice to know that there are people like you here to help. Thanks, John


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:


I believe I may have found a bug in the official 2.07 firmware, but I need your help to verify. I was happily listening to a standard 2-channel stereo redbook CD and all was fine. Music played fine from the front L/R speakers plus the subwoofer. I then entered Anthem's Setup Menu to perform some ARC comparisons. I then exited out of the setup menu and now music was running from all my speakers(L/C/R/LS/RS)







! I first found this when I noticed a radical change in sound when i quit the menu. Closer inspection showed my center speaker active, which led me to check other speakers which as indicated became active. I didn't know how to get back my stereo mode without rebooting. I am using HDMI output and running Anthem Logic Cinema mode.


This also happened when I was listening to cable music only channels as well(not the video music channels).


Thanks,

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17233412
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I believe I may have found a bug in the official 2.07 firmware, but I need your help to verify. I was happily listening to a standard 2-channel stereo redbook CD and all was fine. Music played fine from the front L/R speakers plus the subwoofer. I then entered Anthem's Setup Menu to perform some ARC comparisons. I then exited out of the setup menu and now music was running from all my speakers(L/C/R/LS/RS)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! I first found this when I noticed a radical change in sound when i quit the menu. Closer inspection showed my center speaker active, which led me to check other speakers which as indicated became active. I didn't know how to get back my stereo mode without rebooting. I am using HDMI output and running Anthem Logic Cinema mode.
> 
> 
> This also happened when I was listening to cable music only channels as well(not the video music channels).
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



The Setup menu is an internally generated Source that happens to also play whatever audio is active on your currently chosen Source.


But that means when you leave the Setup menu to return to your current Source, it is treated as if you were selecting that Source anew.


And that means the audio surround mode changes to whatever you happen to have specified in Setup > Mode Presets for that Source.


Setup > Mode Presets for each Source lets you specify the default audio surround mode for each type of audio input. The Mode Preset is applied when you change to that Source. If you'd rather a default setting NOT be applied, specify "Last Used". See Section 3.7 in the Manual.


Apparently you have Anthem Logic - Cinema specified as the Mode Preset for that Source for 2 channel audio input, so when you left the Setup menu the audio mode switched to that. Change that Mode Preset to Stereo if that's what you prefer.


You can also change audio surround modes on the fly by pressing the Mode button on the remote and cycling through the available choices using the Up/Down arrow buttons.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" ARC V2.3 Re-Issued on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page!*


A new version of "test" ARC V2.3 (labeled RC2 for Release Candidate 2) has just appeared on Anthem's password protected download page. Presumably this will fix the minor version ID problem reported here last night. In addition, one more fix has made it into this version. The release notes for changes since "official" ARC V2.2 read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.3 beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for Windows installer which as of Sep. 2009 stopped installing serialized mic calibration and license files.
> 
> 
> 2. One mic per preamp restriction lifted. If you have serialized files for multiple units, ARC will ask which mic you're using before running a measurement. The files pertaining to the mic are still required to ensure that its frequency response is known.
> 
> 
> 3. (rc2) Fixed erase function.



The "Erase" function in ARC deletes the current set of Uploaded Room Correction parameters in your Anthem processor. Those are stored in a special memory that survives even a Reload Factory Defaults so the Erase function is the only way to return that memory back to its state before the first ARC Upload.


There is no need to use the Erase function except for bug testing. You don't need to Erase before Uploading newer ARC results for example.


In normal use, you will never need or use the Erase function.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17233621
> 
> 
> The Setup menu is an internally generated Source that happens to also play whatever audio is active on your currently chosen Source.
> 
> 
> But that means when you leave the Setup menu to return to your current Source, it is treated as if you were selecting that Source anew.
> 
> 
> And that means the audio surround mode changes to whatever you happen to have specified in Setup > Mode Presets for that Source.
> 
> 
> Setup > Mode Presets for each Source lets you specify the default audio surround mode for each type of audio input. The Mode Preset is applied when you change to that Source. If you'd rather a default setting NOT be applied, specify "Last Used". See Section 3.7 in the Manual.
> 
> 
> Apparently you have Anthem Logic - Cinema specified as the Mode Preset for that Source for 2 channel audio input, so when you left the Setup menu the audio mode switched to that. Change that Mode Preset to Stereo if that's what you prefer.
> 
> 
> You can also change audio surround modes on the fly by pressing the Mode button on the remote and cycling through the available choices using the Up/Down arrow buttons.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob:


Obviously I was mistaken and a further reading of the manual indeed confirmed what you've said







. Please then explain this to me. When I boot up my system with my music mode having prior been set to AnthemLogic Cinema and play a standard 2-channel music CD, i get music from only 2 channels. None from the rest. Is this normal?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17233946
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob:
> 
> 
> Obviously I was mistaken and a further reading of the manual indeed confirmed what you've said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Please then explain this to me. When I boot up my system with my music mode having prior been set to AnthemLogic Cinema and play a standard 2-channel music CD, i get music from only 2 channels. None from the rest. Is this normal?



No, unless you have setup a 2.0 or 2.1 speaker Music configuration and are using that, or unless you Mode Preset for 2 channel input from that Source is Stereo.


Press Select multiple times to confirm what channels are coming in and what speakers are active for output. Press Mode once to confirm the currently active audio surround mode. Double check your Setup > Mode Presets settings for that Source.


There is a known bug where 2.0 channel input into PLIIx-Movie or PLIIx-Music can result in only 2.1 speaker output, but I've never seen that bug happen with Anthem Logic - Cinema. The workaround for the PLIIx bug is to use Mode and the Up/Down arrows to switch to any other surround mode and back. That restores the proper speaker output.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17234069
> 
> 
> No, unless you have setup a 2.0 or 2.1 speaker Music configuration and are using that, or unless you Mode Preset for 2 channel input from that Source is Stereo.
> 
> 
> Press Select multiple times to confirm what channels are coming in and what speakers are active for output. Press Mode once to confirm the currently active audio surround mode. Double check your Setup > Mode Presets settings for that Source.
> 
> 
> There is a known bug where 2.0 channel input into PLIIx-Movie or PLIIx-Music can result in only 2.1 speaker output, but I've never seen that bug happen with Anthem Logic - Cinema. The workaround for the PLIIx bug is to use Mode and the Up/Down arrows to switch to any other surround mode and back. That restores the proper speaker output.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks...will double check my setup.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17234103
> 
> 
> Thanks...will double check my setup.



Ok Bob, I seem to have hit a wall on this seemingly obvious problem. I have attached my TV and Mode setup screens to show my systems setup, yet I'm only getting sound from the L/R speakers only. What am I doing wrong?


Thanks,

David


----------



## obie_fl

dmusoke - It may be that your SAT receiver is putting out a DD5.1 signal but with no audio in the center or surrounds. I've seen this with my cable provider occasionally. If that is the case then AnthemLogic won't kick in as it already thinks you have a 5.1 signal.


I blame Dr Phil


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17234591
> 
> 
> dmusoke - It may be that your SAT receiver is putting out a DD5.1 signal but with no audio in the center or surrounds. I've seen this with my cable provider occasionally. If that is the case then AnthemLogic won't kick in as it already thinks you have a 5.1 signal.
> 
> 
> I blame Dr Phil
























....never thought of the fact that a station can encode a signal as MCH yet only send a stereo signal







I presume that you also have a similar problem where you get a stereo only signal from a signal encoded as MCH?


Thanks,

David


BTW...you have a really, really cool HT system.


----------



## dmusoke

For those who care .... http://hometheaterreview.com/anthem-...tion-reviewed/


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17234638
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....never thought of the fact that a station can encode a signal as MCH yet only send a stereo signal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I presume that you also have a similar problem where you get a stereo only signal from a signal encoded as MCH?



Yes it can happen either way. Obviously the thing to do is to change channels to a movie or whatever that you know has surround sound content to see if it is working properly that way.


It's also possible that your cable box is re-encoding stereo program content into DD5.1 (with only LF/RF active).


The PS3 is notorious for doing this when playing CDs over HDMI. It sends out multi-channel LPCM but only LF/RF are active.


--------------------------------------------


Another way you can have this problem is if you are using Triggers to turn on your amps and you have a stereo amp for LF/RF and a separate 5-channel amp for center and the surrounds. If the Trigger is not properly turning on your 5-channel amp then you only get audio on LF/RF (and Sub since it has its own internal amp). Check that your amps are actually on, and if not, revisit your Trigger table settings and how the Trigger is wired.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" ARC V2.3 (rc2) Installation: Un-install Older ARC V2.3 First!*


If you have already installed the "test" ARC V2.3 release from yesterday, be aware that the new "test" ARC V2.3 (rc2) release out today shares the same version number as far as the installer is concerned. That means you can't just install this new V2.3 on top of the prior V2.3. The Installer will stop with an error message if you try.


Instead you must first uninstall the older V2.3 using Windows Control Panel > Add / Remove Programs.


As always, I suggest you reboot your Windows computer before and after uninstalling or installing anything. So Remove the old version, reboot, install the new version, and reboot again.


NOTE: Any ARC calibration/licensing files you have previously installed in Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction will not be removed when you uninstall ARC. So there's nothing special you have to do to get them back in there when you then install the newer version of ARC.


--------------------------------------


I can confirm that this new (rc2) release does indeed correct the ARC version number displayed if you select About from the ARC Help menu.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17229907
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> What sort of problems are you experiencing?
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



I tried Dolby trueHD of Legends of Jazz with 6 channel input and the avm outputs only LR plus sub. Using the AIX setup disc, all sorts of problems occur, sometimes a full 7.1 input is selected and only the LR are heard. It was so frustrating that I just went to the oppo's setup and selected LPCM and all my problems went away.


Alvin


----------



## bluemark81

With Paradigm Signature S6's, C3 and S2's, what should the Xover's be set to?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17230908
> 
> 
> How many speakers do you have? If you have more than 5.1 speakers, revert back to "official" firmware V2.07 as there is a known bug for 7.1 speaker output.
> 
> 
> What sort of problems are you finding.
> 
> 
> Make sure you have Secondary Audio set to OFF in the BDP-83. Make sure you are using at least 720p video output resolution from the BDP-83 whenever you want to play a high bandwidth track.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Yes I have a 7.1 configuration. Secondary audio is off and output is 1080p.


My finding are weird, I did not document them. I will try to test some disc when I get home.


Alvin


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17234906
> 
> 
> Yes it can happen either way. Obviously the thing to do is to change channels to a movie or whatever that you know has surround sound content to see if it is working properly that way.
> 
> 
> It's also possible that your cable box is re-encoding stereo program content into DD5.1 (with only LF/RF active).
> 
> 
> The PS3 is notorious for doing this when playing CDs over HDMI. It sends out multi-channel LPCM but only LF/RF are active.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Another way you can have this problem is if you are using Triggers to turn on your amps and you have a stereo amp for LF/RF and a separate 5-channel amp for center and the surrounds. If the Trigger is not properly turning on your 5-channel amp then you only get audio on LF/RF (and Sub since it has its own internal amp). Check that your amps are actually on, and if not, revisit your Trigger table settings and how the Trigger is wired.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob:


Just proved that all is OK. I'm watching an Andrea Bocelli concert on PBS and its recorded in stereo but output in 5.1 using AL Cinema







. No triggers in my setup.


----------



## dmusoke

Hi Bob:


Attached are my latest ARC plots for my 5.1 system, As you'll see, my satellites have limited bass extension but that was by design from the mfgr and magazine reviews. Also the same for the dip in the 1-3KHz region in intentional as well to enhance dialog. This was also observed 2 weeks ago in this forum when I first posted my plots. No amount of speaker positioning changes these results. My questions are:


1. The ARC recommended sub cut-off is 80Hz with the high satellite cutoffs within 110 - 130Hz. Will this create a hole between 80 and 110Hz OR will the combined low frequency response of all satellites bring this region up to the reference 75(?) dB level?


2. Should I override the sub and/or low frequency satellite cut-offs to 100Hz?


3. From the subwoofer frequency plot, how do I determine its true low frequency limit?


4. Lastly, somewhat OT(







)what is the recommended L/R speaker separation if I'm 8.5ft from the center speaker?


Thanks,

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17235580
> 
> 
> Hi Bob:
> 
> 
> Attached are my latest ARC plots for my 5.1 system, As you'll see, my satellites have limited bass extension but that was by design from the mfgr and magazine reviews. Also the same for the dip in the 1-3KHz region in intentional as well to enhance dialog. This was also observed 2 weeks ago in this forum when I first posted my plots. No amount of speaker positioning changes these results. My questions are:
> 
> 
> 1. The ARC recommended sub cut-off is 80Hz with the high satellite cutoffs within 110 - 130Hz. Will this create a hole between 80 and 110Hz OR will the combined low frequency response of all satellites bring this region up to the reference 75(?) dB level?
> 
> 
> 2. Should I override the sub and/or low frequency satellite cut-offs to 100Hz?
> 
> 
> 3. From the subwoofer frequency plot, how do I determine its true low frequency limit?
> 
> 
> 4. Lastly, somewhat OT(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )what is the recommended L/R speaker separation if I'm 8.5ft from the center speaker?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



Well you've given ARC quite a challenge here with this combo of speakers, but amazingly enough, I think it has come up with a solution that should work.


This solution is very delicately balanced at the limits of what your speakers can do, I would strongly recommend you do NOT change any of the levels, crossovers, or cutoffs that ARC has selected!


I'd be happier if your speakers had more bass extension and your sub had more high end extension as it would give ARC a bit more flexibility in setting the solution, but what you've got now should sound very good indeed particularly in comparison to your uncorrected speakers. It will sound different enough that it may take some getting used to, but the corrected audio really is, well, "correct".


--------------------------------------------------


Start by determining the basic volume level of the solution ARC has come up with. This is the flat part of the dashed Targets curves to the right of the Room Gain hump near the crossover frequencies. In your case that's about 74dB.


Now you asked about the low end of your sub. Look at the part of the green Calculated curve for the sub as it descends from the Room Gain peak towards the low frequencies and see where it crosses the basic volume level. In your case that's around 20Hz. So your sub is fine at the low end. The roughly 4dB peak to the right of that (30Hz) is your sub's contribution to the Room Gain.


Now the next thing you need to know is that crossovers (and room EQ cutoffs) are not hard limits. These actually come into play over a range of about an octave. During that range, both the main speaker and the sub are playing the same content.


When two speakers are playing the same content if you want to achieve 74dB combined output you need about 71dB from each of them.


So look where your sub's high frequency, green Calculated response drops down to around 71dB. It's at about 80Hz.


Now check each of your other speakers and see where their green Calculated curves drop down to 71dB. Again its right about 80Hz for each of them.


So you don't have a "hole" that needs fixing. ARC has fixed it for you by shallowing the crossover attenuation curves through use of its Room Correction parameters.


Despite doing all that work in the bass, ARC still had enough resources left to correct the higher frequencies as well. ARC has removed the weird, designed-in dip at 3KHz in your speakers. If you've listened to the uncorrected speakers for some time this will take a little getting used to, but you should give yourself time to get familiar with what "correct" audio sounds like rather than just reacting to the change.


Your speakers were also quite hot around 200Hz and ARC has corrected that as well. This too will take a little getting used to.


--------------------------------------


Now there is one VERY important step you have to do. You have to take the time to carefully adjust the Polarity/Phase of your subwoofer. ARC's solution depends upon blending a rather significant frequency range of sub output and main speaker output and that can only happen if your sub is in phase with the mains.


See the post link in the Setup section of the first post of this thread for guidance on how to set Polarity/Phase properly.


If you only have one physical subwoofer, you can refine Polarity/Phase settings for it AFTER setting up ARC without having to re-Measure. This is because ARC only listens to one speaker at a time so it doesn't hear the phase relationship between sub and mains.


[If you have more than one sub, then they must be set in proper phase BEFORE you Measure for ARC as ARC will hear the set of subs all playing at the same time. You set each sub in turn to be in proper phase with LF, and then they are also, automatically, in proper phase with each other.]


Do not skip this step. Your bass results will sound a lot better when you have your sub Polarity/Phase set properly.


-------------------------------------------


The only real downside to this ARC solution is that some fairly high frequency content is being steered from the mains to the sub. That can result in the sub being more "localizable". Ideally the sub pressurizes the whole room and bass comes "from everywhere" instead of from the physical location of the sub.


If your sub is a reasonable distance away from your seating position, this won't be that much of a problem -- and anyway you have no other choice except to replace your speakers.


--------------------------------------------


Separation of LF/RF is always tricky. That's because the ideal separation for music listening tends to be wider than the ideal separation for movies. (A similar problem exists when placing surround speakers.) So ANY choice is going to be a compromise.


I've finally come to the conclusion that what's probably best is just to pick the locations for LF/RF that "look best" in your room and not to worry too much about whether that's actually ideal for either movies or music.


But if you really want to research this, you ought to do a search over in the Audio Theory forum here.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17235849
> 
> 
> Well you've given ARC quite a challenge here with this combo of speakers, but amazingly enough, I think it has come up with a solution that should work.
> 
> 
> This solution is very delicately balanced at the limits of what your speakers can do, I would strongly recommend you do NOT change any of the levels, crossovers, or cutoffs that ARC has selected!
> 
> 
> Despite doing all that work in the bass, ARC still had enough resources left to correct the higher frequencies as well. ARC has removed the weird, designed-in dip at 3KHz in your speakers. If you've listened to the uncorrected speakers for some time this will take a little getting used to, but you should give yourself time to get familiar with what "correct" audio sounds like rather than just reacting to the change.
> 
> 
> Your speakers were also quite hot around 200Hz and ARC has corrected that as well. This too will take a little getting used to.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The only real downside to this ARC solution is that some fairly high frequency content is being steered from the mains to the sub. That can result in the sub being more "localizable". Ideally the sub pressurizes the whole room and bass comes "from everywhere" instead of from the physical location of the sub.
> 
> 
> If your sub is a reasonable distance away from your seating position, this won't be that much of a problem -- and anyway you have no other choice except to replace your speakers.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> Bob



Bob:


Thanks for the detailed analysis of my system. The new ARC sound actually is well balanced with no prominent frequencies anymore. On poor source material like some TV, its mediocre. On an HDCD encoded, the sound is superb!


The prominent peak around 200Hz was awful indeed. It created a boomy, boxy sound. When ARC removed it, the bass became more natural to me and yes, I had to get used to it. It was after, I A/B'b several high resolution music sources that I truly appreciated the wonders of ARC indeed. The room 'disappeared' and I heard the music in a new way indeed.


I will indeed optimize the subwoofer polarity/phase. I wasn't aware this was an issue. I didn't under the comment *"The only real downside to this ARC solution is that some fairly high frequency content is being steered from the mains to the sub. That can result in the sub being more "localizable". Ideally the sub pressurizes the whole room and bass comes "from everywhere" instead of from the physical location of the sub*." Can you please explain what you mean by high freq content being sent into the sub issue?


The single sub is indeed non-localizable. Its 10 feet from me and to the left of the left speaker. LFE sounds come from everywhere and my ears feel plenty pressurized indeed







. Higher bass sounds seem to come from the L/C/R speaker area or the front room area. I hope this is normal.


Again, thanks for detailed analysis of my set. Greatly appreciated indeed!!!


God Bless,

David


----------



## buddy4711




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17230965
> 
> 
> This is a VERY strange result! The Auto setting in Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space simply switches between HDTV and SDTV math for converting YCbCr to RGB for internal processing based on whether the input resolution is 720p or higher (HDTV) or below that (SDTV). Selecting the HDTV or SDTV setting forces HDTV or SDTV math regardless of the input resolution.
> 
> 
> The difference between the two types of color space math is small enough that you won't see it unless you are looking for it (it shows up primarily in greens which will be 15% hot or dull if you are using the wrong math, depending on which way you get it wrong). Using the wrong math will NOT cause color swapping of the type shown in the pictures posted earlier.
> 
> 
> And the Source device should have no idea whether or not Auto is set in the Anthem, so it shouldn't be able to get it wrong just because Auto is set.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I suspect what is going on here is that the Source is screwing up the handshake by not doing it with the proper timing, and that selecting Auto or not in the Anthem simply changes the response timing of the Anthem just enough to make it work. This might happen if the source is rapidly switching its output resolution for example. Some computer graphics cards are known to screw up this way since the change resolutions rapidly as they go through their boot up process.
> 
> 
> In any event, this looks like a problem in HDMI implementation in the Source, and it is just sheer luck that it works as well as it does when you de-select this Auto setting in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Look to see if there is a setting in the Source to set explicit YCbCr vs. RGB output as opposed to figuring that out "automatically" during the handshake. That could be the cause of the timing problem in the Source. Set that to explicit YCbCr output and change the setting in the Anthem back to Auto.
> 
> --Bob



Interesting! I will check that tonight and report back here. However, when I connect this source device (Xtreamer) directly to the TV (Pioneer Kuro) then it shows a perfect picture. Only when the D2 is in between it causes this problem (not really a problem for me as I am able to solve the problem by changing the auto setting to the specific HDTV setting as described....)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/17236313
> 
> 
> Interesting! I will check that tonight and report back here. However, when I connect this source device (Xtreamer) directly to the TV (Pioneer Kuro) then it shows a perfect picture. Only when the D2 is in between it causes this problem (not really a problem for me as I am able to solve the problem by changing the auto setting to the specific HDTV setting as described....)



The HDMI processing the Source has to do with a processor in between it and the TV is quite a bit different than when connected directly to the TV. It has to do "repeater processing" during the handshake to set up copy protection and such with the TV through the AVR.


If you find the explicit YCbCr HDTV input color space setting is working, just try the YCbCr SDTV setting as well and see what happens. What SHOULD happen is that you get an image which is virtually indistinguishable from the correct image using the HDTV setting -- greens will just be slightly off.


If you get a good image with both HDTV and SDTV settings then there is no reason it shouldn't ALSO work with the Auto setting since those are the only two results Auto can produce.


--------------------------------------------------------------


It would make much more sense if you said you turned off an Auto setting in the Source's video output settings, or changed the Anthem's Setup > Video Output > Data Format setting to an explicit setting (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) rather than Auto, as video output setting affect how the handshake decides whether RGB or YCbCR will be used.


But the INPUT setting you are adjusting in the Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space does not affect the handshake that way at all.


--------------------------------------------------------------


ETA: Another test here is to change then Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space setting on the fly while watching video from the streamer. What you'll notice is that switching between Auto, HDTV, and SDTV settings *DOESN'T PRODUCE A NEW HDMI HANDSHAKE*! It is a processing setting in the Anthem that is applied AFTER the handshake, much as if you changed Contrast or Brightness.


You may discover that the Auto setting works fine if you apply it AFTER the handshake has been set up using the HDTV setting. That would pretty much nail it down that the problem is in the HDMI implementation in the Source device.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17236045
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the detailed analysis of my system. The new ARC sound actually is well balanced with no prominent frequencies anymore. On poor source material like some TV, its mediocre. On an HDCD encoded, the sound is superb!
> 
> 
> The prominent peak around 200Hz was awful indeed. It created a boomy, boxy sound. When ARC removed it, the bass became more natural to me and yes, I had to get used to it. It was after, I A/B'b several high resolution music sources that I truly appreciated the wonders of ARC indeed. The room 'disappeared' and I heard the music in a new way indeed.
> 
> 
> I will indeed optimize the subwoofer polarity/phase. I wasn't aware this was an issue. I didn't under the comment *"The only real downside to this ARC solution is that some fairly high frequency content is being steered from the mains to the sub. That can result in the sub being more "localizable". Ideally the sub pressurizes the whole room and bass comes "from everywhere" instead of from the physical location of the sub*." Can you please explain what you mean by high freq content being sent into the sub issue?
> 
> 
> The single sub is indeed non-localizable. Its 10 feet from me and to the left of the left speaker. LFE sounds come from everywhere and my ears feel plenty pressurized indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Higher bass sounds seem to come from the L/C/R speaker area or the front room area. I hope this is normal.
> 
> 
> Again, thanks for detailed analysis of my set. Greatly appreciated indeed!!!
> 
> 
> God Bless,
> 
> David



A better Audio setup, just like a better Video setup, will be much less forgiving of poor quality input content. You will hear the defects in the poor quality content, and the contrast vs. better quality content will be stark.


I find some of my poorer quality CDs unlistenable now. They've always been bad of course, but it was easier to ignore before the bulk of the audio I listen to became so great.


------------------------------------------


Frequencies above around 100 Hz begin to be localizable. You can tell which speaker is producing them. Since ARC has had to set your crossovers so high -- 130 Hz for LF/RF for example -- you are getting some of these higher frequencies steered to the Sub.


LFE input content, which always goes to the sub, naturally rolls off up there and is pretty much gone by 120Hz all by itself.


To test whether this is a problem, use your current ARC results, but turn off your power amps so that only the sub's built in power amp is alive and play multi-channel movie tracks at the volume setting you normally use. See if you can hear low rumblings of speech, for example as coming "from" the sub when at your normal listening position. Now your tendency will be to say yes because you "know" only the sub is powered on, but close your eyes, relax and see if that is really the case or whether the sound seems to be coming more from "all around you".


Keep in mind that in real use these higher frequencies of bass will ALSO be coming from their correct speakers. So the perception of a localizable sub will be reduced quite a bit.


Subs also become localizable if they generate buzzing from things in the room. Find whatever is buzzing at different bass frequencies and fix it.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17106139
> 
> 
> Glutton for punishment that I am, I'm still using the "test" V2.07g firmware, and I've got another odd problem that didn't exist with "test" V2.07f:
> 
> 
> If I view HDMI 1080p/23.976 YCbCr 4:4:4 input video long enough (e.g., the length of a typical movie), then I can no longer get Component or S-video input to display. I just get a black screen. The Select and Video Source Adjust displays show without problem and the status values are correct for the analog video input that should be showing.
> 
> 
> The Setup menu also doesn't display. (It is an internally generated S-video source, so that's consistent.)
> 
> 
> Audio plays properly throughout this.
> 
> 
> Changing inputs doesn't cure this. Switching input resolutions using the Component video from my Comcast box also doesn't cure this. In fact I've found no way to cure it once it gets into this state except to power cycle the D2v.
> 
> 
> Viewing for just a few minutes before switching to an analog video input doesn't show this problem. And I'm not certain, but I think that viewing HDMI 1080p/59.94 video input for an extended period also doesn't produce this problem.
> 
> 
> Anthem has been informed.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Bob, I have noticed this with both 2.07 and 2.07g. I mentioned it to Nick and he seemed surprised to hear this was an issue. I have to admit that it really is annoying. In lieu of that I have gone back to HDMI with my SA 8300HD DVR. My only problem with using HDMI is the frozen reboot once the Anthem is powered off after using the DVR.


What I have resorted to is unplugging the HDMI cable from the back of the DVR immediately after powering off the Anthem and plugging it back in. This breaks the HDMI handshake and the box doesn't go into that reboot. The HDMI connection on the back of the DVR easily allows my cable to move in and out and I am careful. This only occurs once a day.


I much prefer this to having to constantly power cycle the Anthem after watching a blu-ray disc.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I never noticed it when using V2.07 -- I use Component from my Comcast box and S-video from my XM receiver and I'm sure I would have noticed something that required me to power cycle the D2v.


I also haven't noticed it with V2.07f.


I suspect there is something that is not quite getting initialized properly during the firmware install and so whether this happens or not may be just the luck of the draw after an install.


I.e., if you re-install V2.07 back on top of itself in your setup the problem MIGHT go away just due to the random behavior of whatever isn't getting initialized properly.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17237235
> 
> 
> I never noticed it when using V2.07 -- I use Component from my Comcast box and S-video from my XM receiver and I'm sure I would have noticed something that required me to power cycle the D2v.
> 
> 
> I also haven't noticed it with V2.07f.
> 
> 
> I suspect there is something that is not quite getting initialized properly during the firmware install and so whether this happens or not may be just the luck of the draw after an install.
> 
> 
> I.e., if you re-install V2.07 back on top of itself in your setup the problem MIGHT go away just due to the random behavior of whatever isn't getting initialized properly.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Using that theory Bob you could surmise that the other random problems that seem to surface could be corrected by reinstalling the software on top of itself. Actually I have gone back and forth between 2.07 and 2.07g twice and it has existed throughout.


Regardless it appears to be an issue nonetheless but thanks.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well we know that there are some fairly rare problems which are most easily cured by reinstalling. The most commonly reported cases of failure to get the Setup menu to appear on screen no matter what you do are typically cured by reinstalling for example. Presumably this means something has gotten corrupted in the internal settings and the reinstall fixes that.


Now the earliest firmware for the D2v had a problem detecting and locking on to analog video input. Most commonly it happened when you switched from 480i to anything else. That was fixed around V2.04. I suspect the V2.07 firmware versions exhibit the return of a variant of that problem.


If that's due to un-initialized stuff then a re-install might have some percentage chance of fixing it. If it is just a bug in the way they are now doing the input signal detection then it won't. It may just be luck that I've not had the problem with V2.07 and V2.07f. I had it quite regularly with V2.07g.

--Bob


----------



## vengazor

Before running ARC, whats the best way to get your subwooofer in phase? does using a balanced audio cable make a difference? i have seen suggestions of reversing positive/negative wires and using the phase at lowest bass response. And playing a test tone and moving phase to where most bass is heard.


Also do i need a sound pressure meter and is there a good one that is more recommended?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17239398
> 
> 
> Before running ARC, whats the best way to get your subwooofer in phase? does using a balanced audio cable make a difference? i have seen suggestions of reversing positive/negative wires and using the phase at lowest bass response. And playing a test tone and moving phase to where most bass is heard.
> 
> 
> Also do i need a sound pressure meter and is there a good one that is more recommended?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Balanced audio cable is not necessary. It is used in professional environments to help eliminate interference that enters the cable over long cable runs. The signal is sent two ways -- either side of ground -- and combined electrically at the other end so that interference is automatically subtracted since it would impact both parts of the signal equally but in opposite directions.


It is unlikely a home setup would have that kind of electrical interference or runs that long. So a decent quality, shielded RCA cable is all that's needed.


Undoubtedly XLR (balanced) cables look cooler, however, so factor that in.


Professional XLR cables also use latching plugs, but XLR for home theater stuff (as in the Anthem) does not, so it doesn't even have that to recommend it.


If you use a mix of XLR and RCA cabling, be aware that there is a standard 6dB volume difference between them. Some amps will have a selector switch for dealing with that. Otherwise the volume trims in the Anthem will be used. But in either case, you will need to re-run ARC if you swap out RCA cables for XLR or vice versa to make sure your volume trims are correct again.


-----------------------------------------------


Read the post link in the Setup section of the post links collected in the first post of this thread for guidance on how to set subwoofer Polarity/Phase.


If you only have one actual subwoofer, you can adjust/change its Polarity/Phase either before OR after doing your ARC setup. It makes no difference since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time and won't hear phase relationships between pairs of speakers. Your ARC results will just sound better once you get subwoofer Polarity/Phase correct.


[Remember you also have to manually enter your speaker distances! Phase relationships are altered by the distance settings, so set distance first, then get the speakers and sub roughly in volume balance (or do a full ARC setup which will take care of that for you), and THEN do your subwoofer Polarity/Phase adjustments!]


If you have MORE than one subwoofer, then you must adjust Polarity/Phase for each of them (independently) BEFORE doing ARC Measurements since ARC hears the combo of all your subs playing at the same time.


-----------------------------------------------


Yes, you should get an SPL meter, although not for setting Phase. I recommend you set phase by careful listening (see that post). But an SPL meter is essential for verifying other aspects of your setup.


Everybody, and I do mean EVERYBODY, uses one of the two SPL meters sold by Radio Shack. One uses an analog display (moving needle). The other, slightly more expensive, has a digital display. Pick either one. Use the SPL meter by setting it to "slow" response and "C" weighting. Hold it at arm's length at seated ear height, pointing straight up and away from any reflective surfaces such as seat backs or walls. For most SPL readings you will use it at ARC mic position #1 -- your center seating location. Set the display range on the meter so that your desired target SPL value (usually 75dB SPL) is in the middle of the displayed range. For example, in the digital Radio Shack meter, set it to the 70dB range setting. Be sure you use fresh batteries.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17235244
> 
> 
> With Paradigm Signature S6's, C3 and S2's, what should the Xover's be set to?



I don't have those speakers but I do have:

Studio 100s

CC-690

PSB S-50 surround


My cutoffs for each of these is,


Studio 100s 60 Hz

CC-690 60 Hz

PSB S-50(side) 105 Hz

PSB S-50(rear) 115 Hz


Hope this helps.

John


----------



## vengazor

Thanks Bob!


I already have xlr to the sub (40 ft run)


The SPL question was not intended for phase correction, more intended for general ARC setup.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

On the Phase issue, I should also point out that fundamental to setting up your speaker system is to make sure that all of your main speakers are wired with proper polarity. There is no fine adjustment as there is with subwoofer Phase, but if you have one or more of your main speakers wired with the speaker leads reversed you will have a dramatic loss of "imaging" between those speakers and your properly wired speakers.


Calibration discs include speaker phase tests that send signals to pairs of main speakers which are in phase and then out of phase. When a given pair of speakers are properly wired the in phase test tone will be focussed between them and the out of phase test tone will be diffuse and hard to localize. You work your way logically through the various pairs of speakers until you have confirmed that all speakers are wired with the same polarity as your LF speaker (i.e., Red/White or Plus/Minus or Hot/Ground leads connected properly so all speakers match).


This needs to be done BEFORE you try to adjust subwoofer Polarity/Phase.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17239596
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob!
> 
> 
> I already have xlr to the sub (40 ft run)
> 
> 
> The SPL question was not intended for phase correction, more intended for general ARC setup.



Well for example, prior to your first ARC Measurement, I recommend you go into Setup > Level Calibration, zero out all the lines, set Manual Test Mode and then use the SPL meter to first set Test Level to yield 75dB SPL and then go down to a subwoofer line and, leaving that line at 0dB, adjust the internal volume knob in your subwoofer to yield 75dB SPL.


ARC will use the Test Level setting to adjust the volume of its Measurement sweep tones, and by adjusting the sub's internal volume this way you insure it is already pretty much in balance with the main speakers so ARC has no difficulty level balancing everything.


Ballpark settings are fine for this as ARC will do the fine adjustment and Upload the results into Setup > Level Calibration (leaving your Test Level setting unaltered).

--Bob


----------



## Donloz

[Professional XLR cables also use latching plugs, but XLR for home theater stuff (as in the Anthem) does not, so it doesn't even have that to recommend it.




Bob, I use Ultralink Platium XLR cables for my D2 and A5. The latching plugs work FINE on the D2, so if anyone needs latching cables, they DO work.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That's interesting! When did Anthem switch to using latching XLR sockets?


Good catch!

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17239919
> 
> 
> That's interesting! When did Anthem switch to using latching XLR sockets?
> 
> 
> Good catch!
> 
> --Bob



Switch??? I've had my D2 since June 06, and using these cables ( XLR ) from day 1..go figure.. Anthem must have changed after that date. Has anyone got latching HDMI cables yet, now that is one cable we really need.

NO latching on the AMP thou


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I could have sworn that my old D2 didn't have latching XLR sockets. Oh well...

--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17230965
> 
> 
> This is a VERY strange result! The Auto setting in Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space simply switches between HDTV and SDTV math for converting YCbCr to RGB for internal processing based on whether the input resolution is 720p or higher (HDTV) or below that (SDTV). Selecting the HDTV or SDTV setting forces HDTV or SDTV math regardless of the input resolution.
> 
> 
> The difference between the two types of color space math is small enough that you won't see it unless you are looking for it (it shows up primarily in greens which will be 15% hot or dull if you are using the wrong math, depending on which way you get it wrong). Using the wrong math will NOT cause color swapping of the type shown in the pictures posted earlier.
> 
> 
> And the Source device should have no idea whether or not Auto is set in the Anthem, so it shouldn't be able to get it wrong just because Auto is set.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I suspect what is going on here is that the Source is screwing up the handshake by not doing it with the proper timing, and that selecting Auto or not in the Anthem simply changes the response timing of the Anthem just enough to make it work. This might happen if the source is rapidly switching its output resolution for example. Some computer graphics cards are known to screw up this way since the change resolutions rapidly as they go through their boot up process.
> 
> 
> In any event, this looks like a problem in HDMI implementation in the Source, and it is just sheer luck that it works as well as it does when you de-select this Auto setting in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Look to see if there is a setting in the Source to set explicit YCbCr vs. RGB output as opposed to figuring that out "automatically" during the handshake. That could be the cause of the timing problem in the Source. Set that to explicit YCbCr output and change the setting in the Anthem back to Auto.
> 
> --Bob



Okay, I am testing this now using the Xtreamer and the D2v. My Setup->Video Output->Config 3 is set to Color Space of HDTV with Data at YCbCr 4:4:4. If I switch resolutions on the streamer the color goes to blue.


I just checked the Input Color Space and it says Auto YCbCr and Studio RGB.


There is no setting on the streamer to specify color space.


The only way to get a good solid and consistent image is to set the Input Color Space HDTV YCbCr and Studio RGB.


Setup->Video Output->Config 3 still shows a Color Space of HDTV.


I agree the issue is in the source's implementation of HDMI.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17239919
> 
> 
> That's interesting! When did Anthem switch to using latching XLR sockets?
> 
> 
> Good catch!
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I can also confirm that my 50v i received about 2 months has latching XLR plugs since I use them as interconnects to my Sunfire power amplifier. My subwoofer runs XLR most of the way and convert to RCA at the subwoofer. I did this since i run power line parallel to this cable and wanted to eliminate this common mode noise from injecting itself into my subwoofers amplifier.


I performed the subwoofer localization test you suggested. Turned off the power amplifier and listened to the sub output only from its own internal amplifier. I played the 30 second intro from Joe Kanes DVE disk for standard DVDs as it has lots of LFE and low bass stuff. I could still localize the sub with my eyes closed as coming from the left-ish side of the room. I don't know if this was a physicological effect since I "knew" the sub was placed at that room corner or not. But playing it several times produced similar results. I then tried to engage the subs cross-over and turned it from the bypass position to about 50 Hz. The localization was much fuzzier this time around but my brain was still 'pointing' to the left-ish side of the room but w/o much precision at all.


Would a 2nd sub placed at the right side of the room help eliminate this localization or not? I wonder if other folks, having performed this simple test, can localize their subs...


And this brings me back to my earlier post where I suggested manually lowering the satellites low frequency point from 110-120hz to 100Hz or even 95Hz. The satellites are rated down to 95Hz and sub rated up to 100Hz. What do you think?


Thanks,

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I repeat. Do not alter the settings ARC has chosen for you, you will do more harm than good. The localizable sub is a minor inconvenience at best. Putting in another sub of the same type isn't going to correct this as what you REALLY need is main speakers that go deeper.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17240372
> 
> 
> I repeat. Do not alter the settings ARC has chosen for you, you will do more harm than good. The localizable sub is a minor inconvenience at best. Putting in another sub of the same type isn't going to correct this as what you REALLY need is main speakers that go deeper.
> 
> --Bob



OK, no problem and thanks


----------



## Texas steve

I got latching as well - kind of a push and it latches arrangement



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17239919
> 
> 
> That's interesting! When did Anthem switch to using latching XLR sockets?
> 
> 
> Good catch!
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I ran ARC yesterday and here is my first go around. I am aware of that bump in the 50hz region it is the room/setup. Bob I would appreciate your input.











Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17240521
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I ran ARC yesterday and here is my first go around. Bob I would appreciate your input.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Raise your Max EQ Frequency Target value to 20KHz. If you plan on using the separate Music configuration, don't forget to change that value in the Targets window as well. (NOTE: You can view the Music charts by selecting Music in ARC's View menu.)


All of your speakers except for LS/RS have quite a drop at 16KHz. This could be due to pointing (or possibly grills since the error is so similar for all of them). If they are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to vertical pointing. If you extend Max EQ Frequency up there ARC will provide about 6dB of correction, so you only need a modest improvement for each of them and ARC will take care of the rest.


Don't point LF/RF directly at the central seating position. My rule of thumb is to swing them only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular to the screen around towards center seating.


ARC is having trouble getting your sub output correct at 20Hz. Presumably this is spillover from the amount of cut it needs to do to get rid of the peak at 50Hz. Some repositioning of the sub ought to help here. Try moving it closer to the nearest wall/corner to get the advantage of some more Boundary Gain at the lowest frequencies while also changing how it couples to the room. Even inches matter at these frequencies.


All four of your surrounds are weak in bass. Your sub has that well covered, but do check to make sure there isn't something you can do to configure the surrounds for more bass such as opening a bass port. If they have separate binding posts for bass, make sure those are wired. There's not THAT much bass content in surround channels but getting the surrounds to go deeper will tidy up the timbre matching of sound that pans around the room.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:


1. I have a new Harmony 880 pro remote and noticed it Logitech doesn't have the AVM50v in its database. They have the AVM50 and what they call a D2v2 which i assume is the D2v. Can I use the D2v in its database to control the 50v? Any better alternative?


2. Why does ARC automatically compute speaker distances since it has all the data to do so. This will simply things alot as whenever a speaker move or is accidentally bumped, one has to perform a new ARC measurement.


Thanks,

David


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17240839
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> 1. I have a new Harmony 880 pro remote and noticed it Logitech doesn't have the AVM50v in its database. They have the AVM50 and what they call a D2v2 which i assume is the D2v. Can I use the D2v in its database to control the 50v? Any better alternative?
> 
> 
> 2. Why does ARC automatically compute speaker distances since it has all the data to do so. This will simply things alot as whenever a speaker move or is accidentally bumped, one has to perform a new ARC measurement.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



I have a Harmony One remote and use the codes for the AVM 50 for my AVM 50v and all is well.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17241019
> 
> 
> I have a Harmony One remote and use the codes for the AVM 50 for my AVM 50v and all is well.



Fuzzy, how do you access HDMI ports 5 thru 8?


----------



## fuzzybk

Well Bob, I redid ARC with all my speaker grills off and got almost the same results as when I had the grills on. I also still have that nasty drop of all my speakers around 10kHz. I have my speakers wired properly so I'm at a loss.


I have to say that the solution ARC has come up with just sounds incredible to my ears so I'm going to leave it alone.


Thanks for all your help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ralph Potts,


I had another thought regarding your sub.


Some subs have a movie dynamics boost setting that deliberately boosts output around 50Hz to give LFE more punch. Check to see if you have something like that turned on in your sub. You want to leave all such stuff turned off when using ARC.


For example, in the Velodyne DD series subs you want to use Preset 6 to bypass all such stuff.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17240839
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> 1. I have a new Harmony 880 pro remote and noticed it Logitech doesn't have the AVM50v in its database. They have the AVM50 and what they call a D2v2 which i assume is the D2v. Can I use the D2v in its database to control the 50v? Any better alternative?
> 
> 
> 2. Why does ARC automatically compute speaker distances since it has all the data to do so. This will simply things alot as whenever a speaker move or is accidentally bumped, one has to perform a new ARC measurement.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



The D2v codes will work just fine for the AVM 50v.


Speaker distance is easy to set manually. The reason you need to redo ARC if the speakers get moved/adjusted is not because of any change in the distance. Speaker output is directional and the way each speaker couples with the room's response characteristics is much more sensitive than the minor timing differences represented by the distance settings.


But you don't need to go overboard with this. Make notes of how you have pointed the speakers and put position marks on the floor under each speaker so you can easily reposition it if it gets shifted.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17241040
> 
> 
> Fuzzy, how do you access HDMI ports 5 thru 8?



You specify which input jacks to use in Setup > Source Setup for each Source definition. You don't select them directly via the remote. Instead you select the Source.


See Appendix A in the Manual for 3-key codes you can use in a programmable remote to directly select each Source.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17241273
> 
> 
> You specify which input jacks to use in Setup > Source Setup for each Source definition. You don't select them directly via the remote. Instead you select the Source.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See Appendix A in the Manual for 3-key codes you can use in a programmable remote to directly select each Source.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, but if I use the D2v code set in Harmony's database, I'd not have to worry about all this, right?


As for using the AVM50 codeset for the 50v, HDMI 5-8 of the 50v are not available as they are not part of the older AVM50 processor. So, how can I select a source that doesn't exist in the older AVM50? Am I missing something here?


Thanks again,

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes. You are missing that I said use the D2v Logitech setup, not the one for the AVM 50.


But in any event, the 3-key codes for direct Source selection are made using keys that exist even for the AVM 50.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17241408
> 
> 
> Yes. You are missing that I said use the D2v Logitech setup, not the one for the AVM 50.
> 
> 
> But in any event, the 3-key codes for direct Source selection are made using keys that exist even for the AVM 50.
> 
> --Bob



Got it, thanks


----------



## Bigmoviefan

I'm having my new Panasonic HDTV ISF calibrated on Friday. I have an Anthem D2 I bought from the same store last year. It's been update a few times. But I wanted to know what the latest firmware update in on the D2 and on the ARC.

We are going to do new Arc sweeps because the TV is a different size. Just wanted to make sure I have the latest Firmware and Software.

Thank you!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17242400
> 
> 
> I'm having my new Panasonic HDTV ISF calibrated on Friday. I have an Anthem D2 I bought from the same store last year. It's been update a few times. But I wanted to know what the latest firmware update in on the D2 and on the ARC.
> 
> We are going to do new Arc sweeps because the TV is a different size. Just wanted to make sure I have the latest Firmware and Software.
> 
> Thank you!



The latest "official" D2 firmware remains V1.33. There is a "test" version V1.47f out that includes HDMI improvements (they ported the HDMI code from the D2v). At this point in its testing it is only usable by folks with later production runs of the D2 hardware. Look through the top vents of your D2. If you can see that the topmost board, the video board, is red in color, OR if you can see that your power supply does NOT have the big, donut-shaped transformer then you definitely have the right hardware. If neither of those is true you may still have the right hardware, but there is no easy way for you to tell so you should NOT install "test" V1.47f.


The latest "official" ARC Windows PC software version is V2.2. There is a "test" version V2.3 out that includes minor changes having nothing to do with audio quality.


As always "test" software is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises. So don't use it unless you are OK with that. The "test" versions are on Anthem's password protected download page. The "official" versions are on Anthem's public download page for the D2.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17242456
> 
> 
> The latest "official" D2 firmware remains V1.33. There is a "test" version V1.47f out that includes HDMI improvements (they ported the HDMI code from the D2v). At this point in its testing it is only usable by folks with later production runs of the D2 hardware. Look through the top vents of your D2. If you can see that the topmost board, the video board, is red in color, OR if you can see that your power supply does NOT have the big, donut-shaped transformer then you definitely have the right hardware. If neither of those is true you may still have the right hardware, but there is no easy way for you to tell so you should NOT install "test" V1.47f.
> 
> 
> The latest "official" ARC Windows PC software version is V2.2. There is a "test" version V2.3 out that includes minor changes having nothing to do with audio quality.
> 
> 
> As always "test" software is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises. So don't use it unless you are OK with that. The "test" versions are on Anthem's password protected download page. The "official" versions are on Anthem's public download page for the D2.
> 
> --Bob



I have V1.33. I bought it in February of '08. I'll see if I can look through the top and see what is there. V2.2 is different from what I have so the ARC needs to be upgraded.

Thanks for the info Bob.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17241198
> 
> 
> Ralph Potts,
> 
> 
> I had another thought regarding your sub.
> 
> 
> Some subs have a movie dynamics boost setting that deliberately boosts output around 50Hz to give LFE more punch. Check to see if you have something like that turned on in your sub. You want to leave all such stuff turned off when using ARC.
> 
> 
> For example, in the Velodyne DD series subs you want to use Preset 6 to bypass all such stuff.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Bob, no such setting on either of my subs. I have an SVS PB13 Ultra and Canton AS 650SC. The SVS is up front (left corner) and the Canton is in the rear just behind the second seating row (right no corner). I will try shifting the Canton a little one way or the other to tighten that up but I believe that the interaction is room related as the same peak shows up with the L/R fronts. I first noticed it when I had the B&K REference 50 and was running test tones using its notch filter. It was also detected when I had the AVM50 and was its internal Room EQ test tones.


As far as the 16khz drop goes it is speaker grill related. I also don't toe my mains in more than 1/3 toward the listening position as they are sensitive to this. The LS/RS (Axiom QS8's) I use are not Canton which is why they don't exhibit it. Regarding the four surround's bass output what you see is what you get.


I will raise the EQ frequency to max and give it a whirl. Thanks.











Regards,


----------



## perioms

I will get my new D2v, I hope next week. Until then I have got two questions:

Are the gamma corrections input related?

Early firmware releases have a bug with the "Auto" function in the video output config. It was necessary to make different input configurations for each resolution for one source. Is this problem solved?


----------



## Kensmith48

I just finished building my home theater and I haven't used my D2 for approx. 1 year. It has version 1.33 on it. My wife got me the ARC for my birthday last May and I haven't done a thing with it. My question is: what downloads or upgrades do I need to get everything up and running. I also have the new Oppo 983 Blueray player. Should I use the settings for video from the D2 or the Oppo?

Thanks for any help,

Ken


----------



## buddy4711




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17236809
> 
> 
> The HDMI processing the Source has to do with a processor in between it and the TV is quite a bit different than when connected directly to the TV. It has to do "repeater processing" during the handshake to set up copy protection and such with the TV through the AVR.
> 
> 
> If you find the explicit YCbCr HDTV input color space setting is working, just try the YCbCr SDTV setting as well and see what happens. What SHOULD happen is that you get an image which is virtually indistinguishable from the correct image using the HDTV setting -- greens will just be slightly off.
> 
> 
> If you get a good image with both HDTV and SDTV settings then there is no reason it shouldn't ALSO work with the Auto setting since those are the only two results Auto can produce.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> It would make much more sense if you said you turned off an Auto setting in the Source's video output settings, or changed the Anthem's Setup > Video Output > Data Format setting to an explicit setting (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) rather than Auto, as video output setting affect how the handshake decides whether RGB or YCbCR will be used.
> 
> 
> But the INPUT setting you are adjusting in the Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space does not affect the handshake that way at all.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: Another test here is to change then Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space setting on the fly while watching video from the streamer. What you'll notice is that switching between Auto, HDTV, and SDTV settings *DOESN'T PRODUCE A NEW HDMI HANDSHAKE*! It is a processing setting in the Anthem that is applied AFTER the handshake, much as if you changed Contrast or Brightness.
> 
> 
> You may discover that the Auto setting works fine if you apply it AFTER the handshake has been set up using the HDTV setting. That would pretty much nail it down that the problem is in the HDMI implementation in the Source device.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I think you are perfectly right in your preliminary conclusions!


When I change the settings in the Video Setup section of the D2 towards HDTV and Studio RGB (while on the on-the-fly display it is on Auto) the picture is totally off after powering up the Anthem. Next, I change it to HDTV and Studio RGB on the on-the-fly panel (pressing button 7 on the remote) then the picture is fine and stays ok even after shut down and power up the anthem again. An you are right, after the picture is fine (by changing to HDTV on the on-the-fly display or when powering up with this setting already set) I can change it here to auto and back to HDTV or SDTV with no more influences.


So for me the preliminary conclusion is: it is ok like it is, since I changed the setting to HDTV on the on-the-fly display and leave it constantly in this way.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17243074
> 
> 
> I just finished building my home theater and I haven't used my D2 for approx. 1 year. It has version 1.33 on it. My wife got me the ARC for my birthday last May and I haven't done a thing with it. My question is: what downloads or upgrades do I need to get everything up and running. I also have the new Oppo 983 Blueray player. Should I use the settings for video from the D2 or the Oppo?
> 
> Thanks for any help,
> 
> Ken



See my reply to BIGMOVIEFAN about 3 posts above your post for versions info.


I presume you mean the Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player. The 983 from Oppo is an SD-DVD player.


I suggest you leave the Picture settings in the Oppo at factory default values (all 0). Make most of your video adjustments using the controls in your display. Use the controls in the D2 to refine things that can't be fully adjusted using the display's controls.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17242781
> 
> 
> I will get my new D2v, I hope next week. Until then I have got two questions:
> 
> Are the gamma corrections input related?
> 
> Early firmware releases have a bug with the "Auto" function in the video output config. It was necessary to make different input configurations for each resolution for one source. Is this problem solved?



The Gamma Corrections primarily provide a way to correct for problems in your display's Gamma response. As such they are independent of the Source. However they are implemented in Video Source Adjust > Output so that you can have a different Gamma Correction for each Source "just in case".


I don't know what bug you might be referring to in the Auto setting. I don't know of any problem with it now. The YCbCr Auto (and Studio RGB) settings in Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space are the factory defaults and the ones you would normally use.


However, setting an explicit setting for Setup > Video Output > Data Format rather than Auto simplifies the HDMI handshake and may be helpful with some displays that have balky HDMI when they power up. YCbCr 4:4:4 is the one you would typically use for HDMI to HDMI connections.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks Bob. Yeah, my mistake I have the BDP-83 Blue Ray Player. I also have the 983 though which I use in the family room. The Blue Ray is the home theater.


----------



## peechus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17235580
> 
> 
> Hi Bob:
> 
> 
> Attached are my latest ARC plots for my 5.1 system, As you'll see, my satellites have limited bass extension but that was by design from the mfgr and magazine reviews. Also the same for the dip in the 1-3KHz region in intentional as well to enhance dialog. This was also observed 2 weeks ago in this forum when I first posted my plots. No amount of speaker positioning changes these results. My questions are:
> 
> 
> 1. The ARC recommended sub cut-off is 80Hz with the high satellite cutoffs within 110 - 130Hz. Will this create a hole between 80 and 110Hz OR will the combined low frequency response of all satellites bring this region up to the reference 75(?) dB level?
> 
> 
> 2. Should I override the sub and/or low frequency satellite cut-offs to 100Hz?
> 
> 
> 3. From the subwoofer frequency plot, how do I determine its true low frequency limit?
> 
> 
> 4. Lastly, somewhat OT(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )what is the recommended L/R speaker separation if I'm 8.5ft from the center speaker?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



Me too Bob. Checking with my speaker mfg re: bass roll off in dipole surrounds, it's supposed to be that way. Is there any way to prevent the ARC from "helping out" with the bass boost and the attendant thick and cloudy low end. eight months and thinning hair is now testing the pucker string tensile strength. thanks, Peechus


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/17243736
> 
> 
> Me too Bob. Checking with my speaker mfg re: bass roll off in dipole surrounds, it's supposed to be that way. Is there any way to prevent the ARC from "helping out" with the bass boost and the attendant thick and cloudy low end. eight months and thinning hair is now testing the pucker string tensile strength. thanks, Peechus



No. It's NOT supposed to be that way. There is no logical reason for preferring a speaker response that produces weak bass in the region from 80Hz to 200Hz. It is not even a matter of taste. And it is certainly not something that is desirable in a dipole surround speaker.


This is an outdated design philosophy based on the idea that surround speakers will ONLY be used for movies, and that movie mixes won't include high bass / low midrange in the surround channels. Both these assumptions are wrong.


ALL of your main speakers should be competent at reproducing bass down to at least the point where it stops being localizable.


Now a given speaker may have been designed to be weak in bass to keep the cost down, or the size down, or to allow for the convenience of in-wall installation for example. But that doesn't make it "right".


-----------------------------------------


That aside, if you post your latest ARC charts and Targets window, I'll see if there's anything more I can suggest.


If you don't want ARC to include bass steering to the subwoofer in its solution simply check the "Full Range" box in ARC's Targets window for each such speaker pair and re-Calculate. If you set ALL of your speakers to "Full Range" the only bass that will go to the subwoofer is what comes in on the LFE channel. If you'd prefer even LFE not go to the subwoofer, simply specify no subwoofer in your configuration and LFE will be directed to LF/RF (as will steered bass from any other speakers you still have specified as not being Full Range).


If you set speakers to Full Range that are not really capable of doing that, ARC will limit the amount of boost it applies to keep from stressing the speaker or amp. Since no bass steering will happen, the bass such speakers can't reproduce will be lost.


Also, revisit the post link on Subwoofer Polarity/Phase adjustment found in the collection of post links in the first post of this thread. Proper subwoofer Polarity/Phase is crucial for clean bass transition through the crossover frequencies.


If you have more than one subwoofer, keep in mind that proper Polarity/Phase has to be established for each of them BEFORE you take the ARC Measurements.


And double check that all of your speakers are properly wired to produce correct phase between speaker pairs -- i.e., that they are all wired with the correct polarity relative to each other.


If ARC has found a normal amount of Room Gain for your room (say 2-4dB) try "forcing" a smaller value. This will flatten the Target response curve near the crossovers and thus put less emphasis on steered bass.


----------------------------------------------


Remember that you must manually enter correct speaker distances in the Setup > Listener Position menu. And remember that when using ARC you must manually specify "1 Sub" in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie / Music even if you have more than one actual subwoofer. That's "1 Sub", not "1 Super".


And to state the obvious, re-confirm that you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON for *EVERY* Source definition so that ARC processing is actually enabled for each Source.


Lastly, there are special problems that arise if you position your subwoofer immediately adjacent to your seating as if it is some sort of end table. The near field response from any speaker will be different -- you wouldn't do it with a main speaker for obvious reasons -- but for a sub it is easy to fool yourself into thinking this is nothing to worry about. Nearby sub issues can be addressed, but the best solution is to find a different location for the sub that's more like your main speaker distances.


---------------------------------------------


ETA: Another common cause of poor results from ARC is mistakenly changing the values that ARC has Uploaded into the Setup menu. Do not alter the speaker volume trims, configuration, or crossover values that ARC Uploads as doing so will make them inconsistent with the Room Correction parameters ARC has also Uploaded. Remember to Save User and Installer Settings after verifying an ARC Upload to capture ARC's settings so that you don't accidentally undo ARC's settings later by Reloading values from either of those memories.


Keep in mind that the "crossover" value ARC Uploads for the Subwoofer will usually be different from the "cutoff" value it displays in its Targets window. This is not an error and you should not try to "correct" it.


You CAN safely adjust/refine the speaker distances, and, if you have ONLY ONE subwoofer, the subwoofer Polarity/Phase settings after an ARC Upload if necessary. Such changes do not alter what ARC would have Measured, and so they don't break the solution ARC has Uploaded.


If you are not CERTAIN you haven't mistakenly altered ARC's Uploaded Setup menu values, simply re-Open your latest ARC results file in ARC's "advanced" mode and just redo the Upload. No need to re-Measure or re-Calculate.


If you need to adjust speaker volumes due to problems with some content, use the "temporary" level setting available from the Remote (see Section 4.6 in the Manual). If you are not CERTAIN that all the "temporary" settings are back at factory default, you can reset all of them to factory default for all sources and all audio formats all at once by going into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults (if you lose video, continue via the Front Panel display)

3) Reload Saved User Settings


Since the "temporary" settings are not saved, this resets all of them.


-------------------------------------------------


RELATED NOTE: ARC's Room Correction parameters are Uploaded into a special memory and are NOT saved as part of Saved User or Installer Settings. This means you CAN NOT put two distinct ARC solutions into the Anthem, trying to stash one in each memory in an effort to A/B between them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've had a chance to listen to a demo Blu-Ray disc Dolby put together to show off Dolby Volume processing. It consists of multiple cuts deliberately recorded at different volume levels.


Think nice, mellow, acoustic instrumental music followed by a jump cut to FOX's "Crank it Up" view of NASCAR racing filmed at track level....


Of course I don't HAVE Dolby Volume firmware yet to see how good a job it does, but I can tell you right now their demo disc is really, REALLY annoying to listen to without it!










--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Well because I did NOT receive my 2nd remote (and correct 232 cable) with my new D2v, today I received both with the new remote style. Like it a lot better. slimmer, better laid out (different got to get use to it)










Amazing how well things work is a NON "null modem" cable now!!!


----------



## bluemark81

Currently I have an AVM50 and I'm expecting my D2v to arrive next week. I have a Harmony One programmed for the AVM50. Will I need to delete my AVM50 settings and add a new device for the D2v or will the existing AVM50 settings be ok to use with the D2v? Or, what is the simplest method of making the changeover?


Thanks


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17246916
> 
> 
> Well because I did NOT receive my 2nd remote (and correct 232 cable) with my new D2v, today I received both with the new remote style. Like it a lot better. slimmer, better laid out (different got to get use to it)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazing how well things work is a NON "null modem" cable now!!!



Texas, any possibility for you to post a picture or two of the NEW remote. Glad you have all your parts now, especially the remote.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/17247164
> 
> 
> Texas, any possibility for you to post a picture or two of the NEW remote. Glad you have all your parts now, especially the remote.



Here's a previous post that includes a photo of the new-style remote control:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post17215669 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17247146
> 
> 
> Currently I have an AVM50 and I'm expecting my D2v to arrive next week. I have a Harmony One programmed for the AVM50. Will I need to delete my AVM50 settings and add a new device for the D2v or will the existing AVM50 settings be ok to use with the D2v? Or, what is the simplest method of making the changeover?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Your AVM 50 settings should work fine with your new D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17247283
> 
> 
> Here's a previous post that includes a photo of the new-style remote control:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post17215669
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob, Thanks very much.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17243917
> 
> 
> .
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> RELATED NOTE: *ARC's Room Correction parameters are Uploaded into a special memory and are NOT saved as part of Saved User or Installer Settings.* This means you CAN NOT put two distinct ARC solutions into the Anthem, trying to stash one in each memory in an effort to A/B between them.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


1. If the ARC settings aren't stored in the Saved User/Installer Settings menu, then where are they stored? Is it possible that I could accidentally completely or partially lose or delete this data? How do i determine I've lost ARC data?


2. Whenever I change something in the Anthem setup screen and want to save it, do I have to save it twice, once in the Saved User menu and once in the Installer settings menu? i've only been saving in the user menu only and so far(I think), things have been fine.


Thanks,

David


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17246170
> 
> 
> I've had a chance to listen to a demo Blu-Ray disc Dolby put together to show off Dolby Volume processing. It consists of multiple cuts deliberately recorded at different volume levels.
> 
> 
> Think nice, mellow, acoustic instrumental music followed by a jump cut to FOX's "Crank it Up" view of NASCAR racing filmed at track level....
> 
> 
> Of course I don't HAVE Dolby Volume firmware yet to see how good a job it does, but I can tell you right now their demo disc is really, REALLY annoying to listen to without it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


If you want to run your own test watch ABC HD during prime time. TV programming is at one level and the commercials nearly blast you out of your seat.










Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17247870
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> If you want to run your own test watch ABC HD during prime time. TV programming is at one level and the commercials nearly blast you out of your seat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Locally it is FOX on Comcast. I swear they at least double the volume for commercials -- if not triple. Ouch!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17247815
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> 1. If the ARC settings aren't stored in the Saved User/Installer Settings menu, then where are they stored? Is it possible that I could accidentally completely or partially lose or delete this data? How do i determine I've lost ARC data?
> 
> 
> 2. Whenever I change something in the Anthem setup screen and want to save it, do I have to save it twice, once in the Saved User menu and once in the Installer settings menu? i've only been saving in the user menu only and so far(I think), things have been fine.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



User Settings and Installer Settings are two identical memories. I use one as just a backup in case I accidentally screw up the other.


Some installers save their client's setup in Installer Settings and then lock it. The owner/client can futz around changing User Settings knowing he can't mess up Installer Settings and can always load that one again if he gets confused.


ARC's room correction parameters are stored in a separate memory that you can't damage. Nick tells me it even survives firmware installs and Reload Factory Defaults.

--Bob


----------



## husker du

Please excuse me changing the topic.


I'm new to this forum but, I've been following it for some time. I just set-up my D2v and I am having some issues. If I set the resolution to 1920X1080p60 (which is where I had my D2 set), I keep losing the signal. I'm running component from my cable box and HDMI from my PS3. In both cases the signal keeps dropping out. If I switch to 1920X1080p24, I stop losing the signal but the picture doesn't look right. I've tried re-loading the 2.07 version software to no avail. I've also tried switching the HDMI cable to the projector. Still nothing. Is this a handshake issue?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17248532
> 
> 
> Please excuse me changing the topic.
> 
> 
> I'm new to this forum but, I've been following it for some time. I just set-up my D2v and I am having some issues. If I set the resolution to 1920X1080p60 (which is where I had my D2 set), I keep losing the signal. I'm running component from my cable box and HDMI from my PS3. In both cases the signal keeps dropping out. If I switch to 1920X1080p24, I stop losing the signal but the picture doesn't look right. I've tried re-loading the 2.07 version software to no avail. I've also tried switching the HDMI cable to the projector. Still nothing. Is this a handshake issue?



It sounds like it.


Keep in mind that the D2v uses 36 bit (Deep Color) HDMI connections for input and output whereas the D2 used 24 bit. This puts more demand on cable quality and on the connection points.


1080p/24 is considerably less bandwidth than 1080p/60 so it puts less demands on the cable.


Note that if you are using adapters or wall plates as part of connecting to the sources or the projector that those alone may be the cause of your problem. The same is true if you are using any external HDMI switches or splitters.


Try switching input and output to 1080i/60. If that works then it really suggests a cabling problem.


The type of cable you want should be labeled as for HDMI V1.3 for "1080p", or "High Speed", or "Category 2". These all mean the same thing -- that the cable has been subjected to the strictest HDMI design and testing standard.


It is also possible that the input on your projector is having problems with the higher bandwidth. Is your projector supposed to accept Deep Color HDMI signals?


-------------------------------------------


Try this: Set the D2v output to 1080p/60, select an input with nothing connected, and bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" on the remote). No scroll right to Patterns and select any of the test patterns.


Do you get good video? The test patterns are internally generated and independent of any source. If they don't display reliably then your problem is definitely on the output side of the D2v -- its connection to the projector.


If the test patterns display without problem the projector cabling could still be at fault as the Source device has the extra job of insuring copy protection which puts different demands on the cable.


Another thing to try involves moving the D2v or the projector. Basically you want to hook up to the projector using a shorter cable of the type specified above -- say 6 foot long. If that works then you know the projector's input is working and that the fault really is likely to be in your longer cable.

--Bob


----------



## husker du

Thanks Bob, I will try these and let you know how I make out. One more thing I noticed after the post, I see snow in the background, really noticeable on a black screen like when credits are rolling. I only see it on the 1920X1080p60 setting. Does this lead me in one direction or the other?


----------



## peechus

Bob,re:surrounds with no bass. Here's a restart I'm looking forward to. First, thank you for your detailed responses, you've kept me encouraged during the D2v incorporation into a system where a Lexicon pre/pro had been the head unit. Along with HDMI,the latest video chops and ARC , I expected great sound. With your help we're almost there.I feel my bass phasing should merit a closer look-see. I'm using two sub woofers each positioned beside and inches forward of left front and right front speakers. How do I achieve constant [same?] phase among all four drivers?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/17249669
> 
> 
> Bob,re:surrounds with no bass. Here's a restart I'm looking forward to. First, thank you for your detailed responses, you've kept me encouraged during the D2v incorporation into a system where a Lexicon pre/pro had been the head unit. Along with HDMI,the latest video chops and ARC , I expected great sound. With your help we're almost there.I feel my bass phasing should merit a closer look-see. I'm using two sub woofers each positioned beside and inches forward of left front and right front speakers. How do I achieve constant [same?] phase among all four drivers?



See the post links in the Setup section of the first post of this thread for guidance on setting Polarity/Phase.


The trick for adjusting Polarity/Phase when you have more than one subwoofer is to adjust them one at a time -- power the other one off. Typically you will use LF as a surrogate for all your other speakers. So adjust each sub in turn to be in Phase with LF and then they will automatically both be in phase with each other as well.


Ideally the 2 subs should be the same distance from your central seating position.


They should also be level balanced so that both subs are contributing equally to the overall sub output. For example, to get a combo of 75dB from them, you want each to produce about 72dB of output. This has to be adjusted with their built-in volume knob.


Note that you will also have to use Polarity/Phase adjustments built into each of the 2 subs as the controls in the Anthem don't allow different settings for different subs.


For subs in the front of the room as in your case, the rule of thumb is to use "normal" Polarity, then refine their Phase with the Phase control in each of them as described in the post links cited above.


Since you have more than one subwoofer, you must re-Measure for ARC after refining their Polarity/Phase since ARC hears them playing in combo.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17249303
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I will try these and let you know how I make out. One more thing I noticed after the post, I see snow in the background, really noticeable on a black screen like when credits are rolling. I only see it on the 1920X1080p60 setting. Does this lead me in one direction or the other?



"Sparklies" are also a classic symptom of an HDMI cable bandwidth problem. They are bit drop outs. If they go away at 1080i then you can be pretty certain one or more of your cables is not up to the task of 1080p/60 plus high bandwidth audio plus 36-bit Deep Color data.


Try 1080i input and 1080p output, and then try 1080p input and 1080i output. This may help isolate whether the problem is on the input or output side of the Anthem.


How long is your cable run to the projector?

--Bob


----------



## husker du

Thanks Bob. As usual your advice is spot on, I ran a 1080i signal in and 1080p out, sparklies and drop-outs; 1080p signal in and 1080i signal out, no sparklies or drop outs. The cable is roughly 25ft long, of course it is in a dry-walled ceiling with no conduit. Now the fun begins.


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17243917
> 
> 
> No. It's NOT supposed to be that way. There is no logical reason for preferring a speaker response that produces weak bass in the region from 80Hz to 200Hz. It is not even a matter of taste. And it is certainly not something that is desirable in a dipole surround speaker.
> 
> 
> This is an outdated design philosophy based on the idea that surround speakers will ONLY be used for movies, and that movie mixes won't include high bass / low midrange in the surround channels. Both these assumptions are wrong.
> 
> 
> ALL of your main speakers should be competent at reproducing bass down to at least the point where it stops being localizable.
> 
> 
> Now a given speaker may have been designed to be weak in bass to keep the cost down, or the size down, or to allow for the convenience of in-wall installation for example. But that doesn't make it "right".
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> That aside, if you post your latest ARC charts and Targets window, I'll see if there's anything more I can suggest.
> 
> 
> If you don't want ARC to include bass steering to the subwoofer in its solution simply check the "Full Range" box in ARC's Targets window for each such speaker pair and re-Calculate. If you set ALL of your speakers to "Full Range" the only bass that will go to the subwoofer is what comes in on the LFE channel. If you'd prefer even LFE not go to the subwoofer, simply specify no subwoofer in your configuration and LFE will be directed to LF/RF (as will steered bass from any other speakers you still have specified as not being Full Range).
> 
> 
> If you set speakers to Full Range that are not really capable of doing that, ARC will limit the amount of boost it applies to keep from stressing the speaker or amp. Since no bass steering will happen, the bass such speakers can't reproduce will be lost.
> 
> 
> Also, revisit the post link on Subwoofer Polarity/Phase adjustment found in the collection of post links in the first post of this thread. Proper subwoofer Polarity/Phase is crucial for clean bass transition through the crossover frequencies.
> 
> 
> If you have more than one subwoofer, keep in mind that proper Polarity/Phase has to be established for each of them BEFORE you take the ARC Measurements.
> 
> 
> And double check that all of your speakers are properly wired to produce correct phase between speaker pairs -- i.e., that they are all wired with the correct polarity relative to each other.
> 
> 
> If ARC has found a normal amount of Room Gain for your room (say 2-4dB) try "forcing" a smaller value. This will flatten the Target response curve near the crossovers and thus put less emphasis on steered bass.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Remember that you must manually enter correct speaker distances in the Setup > Listener Position menu. And remember that when using ARC you must manually specify "1 Sub" in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie / Music even if you have more than one actual subwoofer. That's "1 Sub", not "1 Super".
> 
> 
> And to state the obvious, re-confirm that you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON for *EVERY* Source definition so that ARC processing is actually enabled for each Source.
> 
> 
> Lastly, there are special problems that arise if you position your subwoofer immediately adjacent to your seating as if it is some sort of end table. The near field response from any speaker will be different -- you wouldn't do it with a main speaker for obvious reasons -- but for a sub it is easy to fool yourself into thinking this is nothing to worry about. Nearby sub issues can be addressed, but the best solution is to find a different location for the sub that's more like your main speaker distances.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: Another common cause of poor results from ARC is mistakenly changing the values that ARC has Uploaded into the Setup menu. Do not alter the speaker volume trims, configuration, or crossover values that ARC Uploads as doing so will make them inconsistent with the Room Correction parameters ARC has also Uploaded. Remember to Save User and Installer Settings after verifying an ARC Upload to capture ARC's settings so that you don't accidentally undo ARC's settings later by Reloading values from either of those memories.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the "crossover" value ARC Uploads for the Subwoofer will usually be different from the "cutoff" value it displays in its Targets window. This is not an error and you should not try to "correct" it.
> 
> 
> You CAN safely adjust/refine the speaker distances, and, if you have ONLY ONE subwoofer, the subwoofer Polarity/Phase settings after an ARC Upload if necessary. Such changes do not alter what ARC would have Measured, and so they don't break the solution ARC has Uploaded.
> 
> 
> If you are not CERTAIN you haven't mistakenly altered ARC's Uploaded Setup menu values, simply re-Open your latest ARC results file in ARC's "advanced" mode and just redo the Upload. No need to re-Measure or re-Calculate.
> 
> 
> If you need to adjust speaker volumes due to problems with some content, use the "temporary" level setting available from the Remote (see Section 4.6 in the Manual). If you are not CERTAIN that all the "temporary" settings are back at factory default, you can reset all of them to factory default for all sources and all audio formats all at once by going into Setup and:
> 
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 
> 2) Reload Factory Defaults (if you lose video, continue via the Front Panel display)
> 
> 3) Reload Saved User Settings
> 
> 
> Since the "temporary" settings are not saved, this resets all of them.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> RELATED NOTE: ARC's Room Correction parameters are Uploaded into a special memory and are NOT saved as part of Saved User or Installer Settings. This means you CAN NOT put two distinct ARC solutions into the Anthem, trying to stash one in each memory in an effort to A/B between them.
> 
> --Bob



after all the settings are entered into memory, where do i look to see that what arc says it has configured is actually what is being used?









thx

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17250793
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. As usual your advice is spot on, I ran a 1080i signal in and 1080p out, sparklies and drop-outs; 1080p signal in and 1080i signal out, no sparklies or drop outs. The cable is roughly 25ft long, of course it is in a dry-walled ceiling with no conduit. Now the fun begins.



Typically you can fish a new cable making only a few holes that have to be patched.


Before doing that, pick any one source and move it and Anthem close enough to the projector to try a short cable -- 6 foot is typical. This will prove the problem is the cable and not the socket at either end.


If you are using any wall plate adapters instead of a single end to end cable, the adapters may be your problem. You can now get adapters that will work, although many still don't.


Before fishing a new cable through the wall, be sure to hook it up outside the wall to make sure it works.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/17250900
> 
> 
> after all the settings are entered into memory, where do i look to see that what arc says it has configured is actually what is being used?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



You can't. There's no way to view the Uploaded Room Correction parameters. You can view the Uploaded speaker volume trims, but there's no way to confirm they are what ARC intended. You CAN confirm that the Uploaded speaker configuration is what you asked for, and that the Uploaded crossover values match the Cutoffs shown in ARC's Targets window -- except for the Subwoofer which commonly is set up with a crossover different from its cutoff.


But be of good cheer. The ARC Upload process confirms that the Uploaded values really have gotten over there correctly, and that seems to be working.


So you just need to make sure that you have turned on Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ for each of your Sources to enable ARC processing while listening.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

I have had two problems with my D2. One has a caveat I want to share with you all, the second is something I'll need Bob's help with.


First- I was doing some tweaking with my video output settings in the D2 set-up screen the other day. When I was done,as is my habit, I went to the 'save/load settings' page-13. When I selected 'save user settings' it went to the 'warning' page'-13a- where I chose 'yes' and entered. it showed 'saving successful', but stayed on the 13a page, asking if I wanted to save...yes/no . Since I assumed that they were saved, I exited to pg 13 and loaded what I thought were my new settings on 13b.

Yesterday I got my Ayre cdp back from getting its MP upgrade and was testing/listening and noticed that the bass/sub was louder than normal. I thought it might have had something to do with the ayre, but decided to check my 'speaker calibration' in the D2 setup. They were '+0.0' down the line and only 'movie sub' listed. Since I run separate ARC movie and music configurations I knew something was wrong.When I checked 'speaker configuration' it showed 'movie same as music' and it didn't show the advanced settings that ARC had loaded. It showed 80hz THX down the line, which are the 'default factory settings' which is what I must have saved and loaded by mistake.

Fortunatly I usually save my settings in the 'save installer settings' also, so I was able to reload the 'installer settings' and all was good. Settings were back to where they should be. When I went to save those setting for 'user settings' it did the same thing- it stayed on 13a. I continued to enter 'yes'. It took 3 or 4 'yes' enterings before it went to page 13.

So, be warned, if it doesn't go back to page 13 it may not have saved your settings, but the factory defaults, and that is what you will load.



Now for my problem I haven't solved.

Before I figured out how to solve the above problem I was going to re-upload ARC to get my correct cross-overs and levels back into the D2 settings.

I got a new laptop a few weeks ago and had copied my ARC settings to the new computer and downloaded ARC 2.2 from the official Anthem site. Today when I hooked up my D2 to my laptop and tried to upload the ARC settings it would show 'found unit #xxxx' for a second then would show an error page-'could not verify...'.

So I thought I may not have copied my numbers correctly from my old computer when I copied the ARC files. I then inserted my original ARC cd and tried to reinstall, but it wouldn't let me since I had a newer version. So I uninstallled ARC, restarted the computer, installed ARC1.1 fresh from the ARC cd, then downloaded ARC 2.2 from the Anthem site. Restarted and hooked the Anthem back to the laptop and tried to download ARC again. Same thing-'found unit#xxxx' then the 'could not verify' error page. And yes, I did download the driver for my Keyspan adapter to my new laptop. BTW Keyspan has been bought out by some other company (I don't remember the new company) but their driver downloads are still available.

This doesn't make any sense to me. HELP!!

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tom,

The place the ARC stuff gets installed changed after your ARC CD was made. The ARC V2.2 you downloaded will automatically install in the correct place but your pair of licensing/calibration files won't already be there from your prior install.


You just have to manually copy over those two files.


The correct, new install location is Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction. Find your just installed ARC V2.2 application in there. Then find the two licensing/calibration files on your original CD or where they are installed in the old location ( > Anthem Statement) and drag them into the new location with the app itself.


The 2 files you want are easy to spot. They have names made of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC mic.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Bob, I ran ARC again. Slight adjustment of the subs made little difference. Sound quality with ARC enabled is really quite good.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17251515
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Bob, I ran ARC again. Slight adjustment of the subs made little difference. Sound quality with ARC enabled is really quite good.



I'd say it's time to declare victory. You are a couple dB weak at 20 Hz in the sub, but getting rid of that 50Hz peak is much more important.


And your residual errors at 20KHz are now quite modest.


Trust your ears on whether the treble is improved, but the charts look fine.


You may have a little localizable bass steered to the subs from the surrounds, but that's just the nature of having surrounds that roll off up there. Your sub is certainly capable of filling in for them, so you aren't losing any content. And your fronts and center are fine for bass so no problem with the bulk of your steered bass.


I think what you have now should sound very good indeed!

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17251449
> 
> 
> Tom,
> 
> The place the ARC stuff gets installed changed after your ARC CD was made. The ARC V2.2 you downloaded will automatically install in the correct place but your pair of licensing/calibration files won't already be there from your prior install.
> 
> 
> You just have to manually copy over those two files.
> 
> 
> The correct, new install location is Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction. Find your just installed ARC V2.2 application in there. Then find the two licensing/calibration files on your original CD or where they are installed in the old location ( > Anthem Statement) and drag them into the new location with the app itself.
> 
> 
> The 2 files you want are easy to spot. They have names made of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC mic.
> 
> --Bob



Sorry. I don't get it.

I can copy the 2 files from my cd to the desk top.

From there I don't understand where to move them. Or how to get to or open up the correct folder where I need to move them.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

From the Start button, go to My Computer > your main hard drive (usually C) > Program files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction.


Find your just installed version of the ARC V2.2 application in there and drag the 2 files in there with it.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17251593
> 
> 
> I'd say it's time to declare victory. You are a couple dB weak at 20 Hz in the sub, but getting rid of that 50Hz peak is much more important.
> 
> 
> And your residual errors at 20KHz are now quite modest.
> 
> 
> Trust your ears on whether the treble is improved, but the charts look fine.
> 
> 
> You may have a little localizable bass steered to the subs from the surrounds, but that's just the nature of having surrounds that roll off up there. Your sub is certainly capable of filling in for them, so you aren't losing any content. And your fronts and center are fine for bass so no problem with the bulk of your steered bass.
> 
> 
> I think what you have now should sound very good indeed!
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


My sentiments exactly.










Thanks for the confirmation....



Cheers,


----------



## aramb

Bob, I raised my targets to 20kHz and re-calculated my ARC. Would you take a look at the measurements for my center speaker and tell me if there is anything odd about it (for example, does it look like there is something wrong with the speaker itself). I have problems with understanding the dialog in some movies (Fast & Furious, Quantum of Solace, for example). I do not have my carpeting installed yet, nor have I installed the acoustic panels. Could this be the source of my problem? The cabinet is ported in the back; could it be to close to the wall or floor?











Thanks,


Aram


----------



## yacht422

Walt here.

i replaced my revel ultima "ones" with "twos". L;c;r; The towers are four ways, and the center is three way, good from 60 hz to 45 kHz at -3DB. I assume i could offer it as full range. The surrounds are likewise, three way, same company.

The charts follow. But, a question to bob.

In an earlier post today, bob indicated checking full range in the measurement process if one wanted to steer the low freq's to the respective speaker(s).

when you review my charts, there are two problems(which arc pretty much corrects, but - - -)

there is a hump in the mains in the low freq's that i cannot eliminate (30 measurements, moving speakers, or changing spkr. freq. levels, or moving sound panels, etc, ad nauseum)

would checking full range help this?

there is also a surround spkr issue in the 500 to 2000 hz area, likewise unable to improve. same question.

i assume the amp would need to work harder if the full range were to be selected, but it is up to it!

is there a down side to full range selection?

Also, final question. Is there a way to circumvent the five placements minimum? I would like to move things a few inches, measure, and repeat. Five times per experiment gets tiresome.

My appreciation,

walt


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/17252161
> 
> 
> Is there a way to circumvent the five placements minimum? I would like to move things a few inches, measure, and repeat. Five times per experiment gets tiresome.



I'd like to know the answer to this, too. I need to try some experiments with moving my subwoofer around and would like to be able to just do a sub measurement.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17251686
> 
> 
> From the Start button, go to My Computer > your main hard drive (usually C) > Program files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction.
> 
> 
> Find your just installed version of the ARC V2.2 application in there and drag the 2 files in there with it.
> 
> --Bob



Well thats another 4 hrs and counting I'll never get back, thanks to micros#@#!!

Just to make sure the ARC file wasn't corrupted, I deleted. I restarted, which was taking forever, so I went to dinner. When I returned the computer had restarted, so I went to the Anthem site, downloaded ARC2.2, extracted files to my desktop. I opened my original cd, dragged the 2 files to the ARC2.2 folder. Double clickked on 'set-up' and installed.

I still get the 'can't verify..' error message.

What am I doing wrong! when I open the ARC folder the 2 'number' files are there. I give up.

Thanks for trying Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17252021
> 
> 
> Bob, I raised my targets to 20kHz and re-calculated my ARC. Would you take a look at the measurements for my center speaker and tell me if there is anything odd about it (for example, does it look like there is something wrong with the speaker itself). I have problems with understanding the dialog in some movies (Fast & Furious, Quantum of Solace, for example). I do not have my carpeting installed yet, nor have I installed the acoustic panels. Could this be the source of my problem? The cabinet is ported in the back; could it be to close to the wall or floor?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Aram



Aram,


Not Bob, Yes, it's the lack of acoustic intervention likely the cause of bad dialog. Even if ARC flatten your speaker's response perfectly, room acoustics plays a vital part in total system's performance. The better your acoustics to start with, the better ARC performs.


Alvin


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17252184
> 
> 
> I'd like to know the answer to this, too. I need to try some experiments with moving my subwoofer around and would like to be able to just do a sub measurement.



I believe you cannot defeat the minimum of 5 test points.


You can just have the Front LR plus sub checked so as to minimize the number of speakers tested. ARC takes into account the average of your whole listening area. It's a good practice to get at least 5 measurement points rather than 1 sweet spot.


In my case I use REW to measure my individual speaker's response using a calibrated MIC and an outboard soundcard. Subs are very hard to optimize as 5 different test points creates 5 very different curves.



Alvin


----------



## aramb

Thanks, Alvin. I guess I need to start figuring out how to reduce the reflections in the room.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/17252161
> 
> 
> Walt here.
> 
> i replaced my revel ultima "ones" with "twos". L;c;r; The towers are four ways, and the center is three way, good from 60 hz to 45 kHz at -3DB. I assume i could offer it as full range. The surrounds are likewise, three way, same company.
> 
> The charts follow. But, a question to bob.
> 
> In an earlier post today, bob indicated checking full range in the measurement process if one wanted to steer the low freq's to the respective speaker(s).
> 
> when you review my charts, there are two problems(which arc pretty much corrects, but - - -)
> 
> there is a hump in the mains in the low freq's that i cannot eliminate (30 measurements, moving speakers, or changing spkr. freq. levels, or moving sound panels, etc, ad nauseum)
> 
> would checking full range help this?
> 
> there is also a surround spkr issue in the 500 to 2000 hz area, likewise unable to improve. same question.
> 
> i assume the amp would need to work harder if the full range were to be selected, but it is up to it!
> 
> is there a down side to full range selection?
> 
> Also, final question. Is there a way to circumvent the five placements minimum? I would like to move things a few inches, measure, and repeat. Five times per experiment gets tiresome.
> 
> My appreciation,
> 
> walt



Just a guess but maybe you're mains are very near walls and are coupling to your primary room mode of 24 hz. Moving them a foot or two might decrease such coupling significantlly. You can easily make your Main FR full range as they can handle it indeed. With ARC taming the Room gain, your amp will benefit from that as it will work less.


Personally my Elac 600 series speakers can handle a full range setting, but I still prefer frequencies below 60 hertz handled by my 2 servo 15's.


Alvin


----------



## jayray

Hey Ralph,


I'm now looking forward to your BD reviews, in particular, the sound. Now that you have ARC and it appears to have tamed your room, the reviews might now match what we hear









John


----------



## yacht422

thx for thr response!

The mains are located 54" from the front wall and 45" from their respective side wall(s). [this is measured to the center of the mid range cone]

I tried moving the speakers _all over the place_, no help. Tried moving various pieces of acoustic treatment(s) -sameo-sameo.









The L;C;R each have 4 positions for bass adjustment, as well as three each for treble. Tried almost each one ( there is not enough time left in my life to measure each permutation!)









I found that moving the speakers did alter the results - some locations were truly horrific.







But, in the end, i still have the hump.









One of the interesting results i found was related to room gain. We have eight adjustable leather chairs. With all fully 'up', the room gain averaged 3.5. With the backs fully reclined, the gain averaged 2.5. No other changes between measurements.









Back to the drawing board and the attendant measurements.









walt


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17254306
> 
> 
> Hey Ralph,
> 
> 
> I'm now looking forward to your BD reviews, in particular, the sound. Now that you have ARC and it appears to have tamed your room, the reviews might now match what we hear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John













Sounds good John..



Cheers,


----------



## perioms




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17243291
> 
> 
> The Gamma Corrections primarily provide a way to correct for problems in your display's Gamma response. As such they are independent of the Source. However they are implemented in Video Source Adjust > Output so that you can have a different Gamma Correction for each Source "just in case".
> 
> 
> I don't know what bug you might be referring to in the Auto setting. I don't know of any problem with it now. The YCbCr Auto (and Studio RGB) settings in Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space are the factory defaults and the ones you would normally use.
> 
> 
> However, setting an explicit setting for Setup > Video Output > Data Format rather than Auto simplifies the HDMI handshake and may be helpful with some displays that have balky HDMI when they power up. YCbCr 4:4:4 is the one you would typically use for HDMI to HDMI connections.
> 
> --Bob



The bug was described in a german review. But there is no information about the firmware of the tested D2v.

In the VIDEO OUT CONFIG You have the possibility under c. to determine the output resolution. The authors describe, that if You setup the resolution to "Auto", the D2v doesn`t detect the signal type of the video source correctly. For example 1080p24 was detected as 1080p50. They propose to configure a fixed resolution in the source setup. This means, that You have to configure for one video device two different video setups for each output resolution.

Did You have observe this too and is this problem solved?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17255580
> 
> 
> The bug was described in a german review. But there is no information about the firmware of the tested D2v.
> 
> In the VIDEO OUT CONFIG You have the possibility under c. to determine the output resolution. The authors describe, that if You setup the resolution to "Auto", the D2v doesn`t detect the signal type of the video source correctly. For example 1080p24 was detected as 1080p50. They propose to configure a fixed resolution in the source setup. This means, that You have to configure for one video device two different video setups for each output resolution.
> 
> Did You have observe this too and is this problem solved?



We've had no reports of any such problem in this thread, and I'm not familiar with that German write up, so I don't have any info on this for you.


It sounds like they were testing the Frame Lock feature, and if so, the version of firmware they were using is crucial to know.


The "Auto" resolution setting in Setup > Video Output simply causes the D2v to inquire of the display what resolution it prefers. There are many MANY displays that return a "safe" answer of 1080i even though they are capable of 1080p, so setting an explicit output resolution is better.


The "Auto" data format setting in Setup > Video Output causes the D2v to do a handshake with the display to select between YCbCr and RGB. Quite a few displays get confused during this handshake, particularly when it happens while the display is still powering up. A common workaround is to build in a delay so that the display has had time to fully power up before you turn on the D2v. But I also recommend that you set an explicit data format just to simplify things. YCbCr 4:4:4 is the default choice for HDMI to HDMI connections.


------------------------------------------


We have lots of folks here using 1080p/24. Some are using two video output configurations and some are using Frame Lock (with Blu-Ray players). Frame Lock leads to a longer handshake and depending on the Source and on the display any such handshake can be an issue, but nevertheless there are quite a few reports here of folks using Frame Lock with success (for Blu-Ray).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/17252296
> 
> 
> Well thats another 4 hrs and counting I'll never get back, thanks to micros#@#!!
> 
> Just to make sure the ARC file wasn't corrupted, I deleted. I restarted, which was taking forever, so I went to dinner. When I returned the computer had restarted, so I went to the Anthem site, downloaded ARC2.2, extracted files to my desktop. I opened my original cd, dragged the 2 files to the ARC2.2 folder. Double clickked on 'set-up' and installed.
> 
> I still get the 'can't verify..' error message.
> 
> What am I doing wrong! when I open the ARC folder the 2 'number' files are there. I give up.
> 
> Thanks for trying Bob



I want to confirm that you did what I told you to do and not what's in the text file of instructions that comes with ARC V2.2:

*After the install, manually copy the 2 files into Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction -- i.e., where the installer installs the ARC V2.2 application.*


Do NOT just copy the files into the installer folder that you downloaded and expect the installer to copy them over to the destination while it is installing the ARC app.


---------------------------------


Microsoft pushed out a Windows Update this month that breaks the portion of the ARC installer which copies those 2 files. The upcoming ARC V2.3 release fixes that, but for now you have to copy them yourself to the proper destination folder whenever you are installing ARC on a computer that does not already have a working ARC version installed.


This is true whether this first install is coming from the CD or from an install folder you downloaded from the Anthem site.


[If you already have ARC V2.0 or later installed and are just updating it with a newer, downloaded version, then you don't need to manually copy those 2 files since they will already be in the right place from the prior install.]


---------------------------------


Also, you can't un-install ARC just by manually deleting things. You need to use Windows Control Panel > Add/Remove Programs so that Registry entries are also removed.


Finally, make sure you are running the installed copy of ARC (the one in Crogram Files/Anthem/Anthem Room Correction) and not some other version you may have in your computer -- such as the one that's in the folder you downloaded. The ARC installer puts a new Shortcut on your desktop pointing to the newly installed version to make this easy.


-----------------------------------------------


If these suggestions don't fix it for you, there's nothing for it but to call Anthem tech support tomorrow.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/17252161
> 
> 
> Walt here.
> 
> i replaced my revel ultima "ones" with "twos". L;c;r; The towers are four ways, and the center is three way, good from 60 hz to 45 kHz at -3DB. I assume i could offer it as full range. The surrounds are likewise, three way, same company.
> 
> The charts follow. But, a question to bob.
> 
> In an earlier post today, bob indicated checking full range in the measurement process if one wanted to steer the low freq's to the respective speaker(s).
> 
> when you review my charts, there are two problems(which arc pretty much corrects, but - - -)
> 
> there is a hump in the mains in the low freq's that i cannot eliminate (30 measurements, moving speakers, or changing spkr. freq. levels, or moving sound panels, etc, ad nauseum)
> 
> would checking full range help this?
> 
> there is also a surround spkr issue in the 500 to 2000 hz area, likewise unable to improve. same question.
> 
> i assume the amp would need to work harder if the full range were to be selected, but it is up to it!
> 
> is there a down side to full range selection?
> 
> Also, final question. Is there a way to circumvent the five placements minimum? I would like to move things a few inches, measure, and repeat. Five times per experiment gets tiresome.
> 
> My appreciation,
> 
> walt



The minimum number of mic positions is 5. Anthem has on their list adding the ability to do trial Measurements at just one mic position and for just one speaker, but I've no idea when that might be added. They've also been asked to add the ability to do "after" Measurements which are done with the ARC processing active.


--------------------------------------------


For sub placement tests, there are two things you can do to speed stuff up. First, specify a 2.1 configuration so that only Sub and LF/RF are Measured. Second, leave the mic at position #1 for all five runs. The results are useless for building an ARC solution, but they will give you an answer as to Measured curves for that one mic position. Now, one mic position tells you precious little about room response -- which can vary significantly over the region of the normal mic positions. But if you know you are trying to find a position to eliminate one peak or dip, that will give you a start.


Also, check the box to set the Music configuration "same as" the Movie configuration. That will keep ARC from running through all 5 mic positions a second time for the Music configuration Measurements.


When you have a candidate position, re-Measure using all 5 different mic positions to see if you have really tamed that peak or dip by sub re-positioning or simply shifted it so that it is now more prominent at another listening position. The Measured curve is the unweighted average of the Measured values for each of the mic positions.


-------------------------------------------


Now as to your charts: You don't have any significant problems showing in these results, so I don't see any reason for you to change anything.


[NOTE: If you are actually going to use the Music configuration (no real need now since it isn't configured any differently), don't forget to raise the Max EQ Frequency Target value for it as well.]


Remember that what you are interested in is the green Calculated results curves. Problems showing in the red Measured curves are not really problems unless ARC can't correct them.


------------------------------------------


Setting Full Range for a speaker pair means ARC will no longer configure things to steer low bass from those speakers to the subwoofer.


Your LF/RF, but not your C, are capable of Full Range, but since your sub is so good my tendency would be to rely on the sub and not change anything.


If you want to experiment, try this:


Set up a separate Music Configuration which is 2.0 -- just LF/RF and no Sub. Since the Sub is excluded, ARC will require LF/RF to be used as Full Range. Be sure to adjust Max EQ Frequency for that Music configuration as well.


You can select to view the resulting Music charts in ARC's View menu.


Now you may find ARC still applies some roll off at the lowest frequencies to help reduce the Boundary Gain peaking your LF/RF are showing at 24Hz (due to nearby wall/corner reinforcement at those lowest frequencies). I suspect ARC will set a cutoff around 40Hz. You can, if you wish, change that LF/RF cutoff to the lowest allowed value -- 25Hz for an experiment as well.


IMPORTANT NOTE: This is ONLY safe to do BECAUSE you have no Subwoofer in this Music configuration. Normally you do NOT want to fiddle with ARC's choice of cutoff values.


This will result in the Movie configuration you have now and a separate, 2.0 Music configuration with Full Range LF/RF. Upload that.


Now set two Sources in Setup > Source Setup, one using Movie and one using Music based on the same source device such as your CD player. Be sure you have ARC enabled (Room EQ = ON) for both Sources. In Setup > Mode Presets, make sure the default audio mode for 2.0 input for both Sources is set to Stereo.


Then play a CD and switch back and forth between the two Sources. The one using Movie will be producing 2.1 output (Sub included and LF/RF partial range), and the one using Music will be producing 2.0 output (no Sub, LF/RF Full Range). Play a variety of different content. Play 2.0 SACD tracks for example if you have any -- making sure your SACD player really is sending 2.0 to the Anthem and not 5.1 with only LF/RF active. And see which you like better.


If the Phase/Polarity of your sub is correct, I think you'll end up liking the 2.1 Movie configuration better. I.e., that things work better if you let ARC set up to do bass steering and to take advantage of the extra degree of freedom it has to handle room nodes by adjusting output from the Sub as well as from LF/RF.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Wondering if anyone knows where to get an SPL meter like the RS one most of us appear to have. Mine just stopped working the other day and new batteries could not revive it I didn't drop it or leave it in the rain. Can't figure this out. Tried going to the Circuit City, formerly RS outlet in Toronto. They only had a cheap digital model. Any ideas would be appreciated.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17252021
> 
> 
> Bob, I raised my targets to 20kHz and re-calculated my ARC. Would you take a look at the measurements for my center speaker and tell me if there is anything odd about it (for example, does it look like there is something wrong with the speaker itself). I have problems with understanding the dialog in some movies (Fast & Furious, Quantum of Solace, for example). I do not have my carpeting installed yet, nor have I installed the acoustic panels. Could this be the source of my problem? The cabinet is ported in the back; could it be to close to the wall or floor?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Aram



There's nothing out of the ordinary in that Center speaker chart.


Next time, do post all of your charts and also your Targets window as the problem may be in something else.


-----------------------------------------------------


First, go into Setup > Source Setup for each of your Sources and confirm that you have Room EQ = ON for every source.


Next, think carefully about whether there is any chance you accidentally modified the Setup menu values ARC Uploaded -- perhaps by doing a Reload Saved User or Installer Settings afterwards.


If you are not CERTAIN the ARC Upload values are intact, then simply hook up your computer again, open your file of ARC results in ARC's "advanced" mode, and just redo the Upload. No need to re-Measure or re-Calculate.


After confirming the new Upload appears to have worked, be sure to go into Setup and Save User and Installer Settings so you don't have this problem again later.


----------------------------------------------------


If that doesn't fix it for you, rethink how well you followed the instructions for ARC mic placement. You want the mic pointing straight up at each location. It should be placed with the tip at seated ear height but not adjacent to a reflective surface like a seat back or wall. Raise the tip a few inches or move the mic about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from a seat back. Mic position #1 must be at your center seating location. Subsequent mic positions must alternate either side of #1. No two mic positions whether or not sequential should be closer than 24 inches apart -- I use 30 inches myself. It also helps to have some forward/backward as well as side to side spread. For example, rather than 5 positions in a line, swing the outer 2 positions in towards the screen a bit.


While ARC is doing its test sweeps, LISTEN to the sweep tones for any indication of buzzes or rattles that might screw up what ARC is hearing. If you have buzzes or rattles, fix them and Measure again.


Be sure the room is configured for Measurement the same way you will use it normally. If you play stuff with doors or curtains closed, Measure with those doors or curtains closed. Furniture should be positioned as it will be for normal use.


------------------------------------------


You could be having problems because your room is too live -- too much reverb and brightness due to no carpet yet, etc. But check the points above first and try again.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17255931
> 
> 
> Wondering if anyone knows where to get an SPL meter like the RS one most of us appear to have. Mine just stopped working the other day and new batteries could not revive it I didn't drop it or leave it in the rain. Can't figure this out. Tried going to the Circuit City, formerly RS outlet in Toronto. They only had a cheap digital model. Any ideas would be appreciated.
> 
> John



If Radio Shack's web site will ship to foreign lands you can get it there. They no longer seem to be selling the analog (moving needle) version:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103667 


Amazon has several SPL meters showing on their site, but I don't know anything about them. This one looks like a clone of the analog version of the Radio Shack meter:

http://www.amazon.com/Velleman-Analo...4082685&sr=1-1 


As for your current one, the range selector switch might be a bit dirty. Try rolling the wheel back and forth several times and see if you can get it to respond at any range setting. Remove and replace the battery again "just in case".

--Bob


----------



## netroamer









This beta firmware has left me with more doubts about Anthem's commitment to fix the HDMI issues. The "Green" flashes when any type of handshake occurs. The annoying Audio Pops when even changing channels on the Tivo 3 (Set to 1080i fixed output). I erased it all and reloaded v1.33. Certainly no bargain, but at least manageable.


I too have heard about the $15k D3 that is supposed to scale 4k with a new projector product capable of 4k output. A $50k combination. However, after living with the D2 and reading about the challenges of the D2v, let alone the outrageous upgrade price,I have no interest in being the first on the block to get any new Anthem products.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17255960
> 
> 
> If Radio Shack's web site will ship to foreign lands you can get it there. They no longer seem to be selling the analog (moving needle) version:
> 
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103667
> 
> 
> Amazon has several SPL meters showing on their site, but I don't know anything about them. This one looks like a clone of the analog version of the Radio Shack meter:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Velleman-Analo...4082685&sr=1-1
> 
> 
> As for your current one, the range selector switch might be a bit dirty. Try rolling the wheel back and forth several times and see if you can get it to respond at any range setting. Remove and replace the battery again "just in case".
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,

Radio Shack doesn't ship to Foreign lands just north of Buffalo and Amazon is not sure whether they will get them in again. My brother lives in Binghamton NY. so perhaps I can get it sent to him. I have tried moving the wheel at high speed but no luck.


John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17256239
> 
> 
> The annoying Audio Pops when even changing channels on the Tivo 3 (Set to 1080i fixed output). I erased it all and reloaded v1.33. Certainly no bargain, but at least manageable.



I have a D2 with TiVo and FW 1.33.


I never have anything Happen, like you Report.

*WHY is that?*










I don't use a hi-def HDMI input for a low-def source like TiVo.


I use Component @ 1080i and Optical for Low-Def DD 5.1.


Why use a HDMI input when you don't need it.


You'll also find channel surfing is much faster. I have (3) DVRs

hooked to my D2 via Component. If you use HDMI with a DVR

every time you change channels you force another HDMI handshake.


No Handshakes with Component. I have done FRAME-BY-FRAME

comparison of PQ at 1080i on HDMI versus 1080i on Component.

I have a PJ on a 13ft screen and I can't see any PQ difference.


----------



## jayray

Dr Hankz,

I have my SA 8300 PVR hooked up with hdmi and I never get any handshaking problems changing channels or doing anything else. I must be lucky









John


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I found a place near Toronto that sells a newer version of the RS meter but still analog. Ordered it. Thanks again for your help.

John


Here's the link.
http://www.sonicboomaudio.com/rs-ana...eter-p-18.html


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17256414
> 
> 
> Dr Hankz,
> 
> I have my SA 8300 PVR hooked up with hdmi and I never get any handshaking problems changing channels or doing anything else. I must be lucky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I would not call it LUCK - I will say SA did their HDMI interface

design correctly. Buy a TiVo and try it










Also don't forget the OTHER piece of LUCK Variable.


You have a D2v NOT a D2.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17256453
> 
> 
> I would not call it LUCK - I will say SA did their HDMI interface
> 
> design correctly. Buy a TiVo and try it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also don't forget the OTHER piece of LUCK Variable.
> 
> 
> You have a D2v NOT a D2.



Once again you are right









John


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17252021
> 
> 
> Bob, I raised my targets to 20kHz and re-calculated my ARC. Would you take a look at the measurements for my center speaker and tell me if there is anything odd about it (for example, does it look like there is something wrong with the speaker itself). I have problems with understanding the dialog in some movies (Fast & Furious, Quantum of Solace, for example). I do not have my carpeting installed yet, nor have I installed the acoustic panels. Could this be the source of my problem? The cabinet is ported in the back; could it be to close to the wall or floor?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Aram



yes...you need at least a carpet between the lcrs and the listening position... I had the same problem when I replaced the carpet with laminetated floor.. I simply added a carpet between the lcrs and the listening position and that solved the problem...


----------



## yacht422

bob: again, my thanks (printed the missive, added same to my growing

'bob" reference file.)

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17256239
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This beta firmware has left me with more doubts about Anthem's commitment to fix the HDMI issues. The "Green" flashes when any type of handshake occurs. The annoying Audio Pops when even changing channels on the Tivo 3 (Set to 1080i fixed output). I erased it all and reloaded v1.33. Certainly no bargain, but at least manageable.



Don't give up.


Give Anthem tech support a call and discuss what you've done and what happened so that they can compare against the results they are getting in their own testing, and from other users, and see what can be done.


Green flashes mean the Source device has decided it needs to mute the video. Typically this happens because it has not managed to get the copy protection stuff to set up all the way to the display.


There are things you can do to simplify the handshake so that the HDMI code in the Source has a better chance of making it work without so many retries. For example, don't use Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock with that Source. Don't use Setup > Source Setup > Auto Dig with that Source. And do go into Setup > Video Output and set an explicit video output resolution and an explicit video output data format instead of using the Auto settings. For data format, YCbCr 4:4:4 is the default choice for HDMI to HDMI connections. (If your display wants RGB, use Studio RGB as D2 output.)


Depending on your display there may be some settings you can make in the display that will simplify things as well.


-----------------------------------------------------


The HDMI protocol has some built-in delays to give devices time to respond. That means the minimum handshake time is about 2 seconds. If retries are needed you multiply that by the number of retries. Whether the video flashes or goes green or just goes to black during this depends on how the HDMI is programmed in the Source device.


-----------------------------------------------------


There are two types of signals on the HDMI cable: Low and high bandwidth. The high bandwidth signal carries the video and the embedded audio. The low bandwidth signal is used for all the control stuff such as HDCP and setup handshakes. It is possible for an HDMI cable to work just fine for audio and video and still screw up the low bandwidth signals.


That means, if you are having persistent handshake problems, even though audio and video eventually comes out right, it is wise to consider upgrading your HDMI cables. Since the HDMI stuff is end to end -- particularly for the low bandwidth part -- the problem cable can be on the DISPLAY side of the Anthem even if your only problem is with HDMI from one Source device. That particular Source may be less forgiving of signal degradation.


----------------------------------------


Since "test" V1.47f has not been made "official" yet, I presume they are still working on it. To register YOUR particular issues, you need to get in touch with them and take the time to try things for them so they can eliminate the usual suspects here and see if your situation really is different from what they are finding in other testing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/17256774
> 
> 
> bob: again, my thanks (printed the missive, added same to my growing
> 
> 'bob" reference file.)
> 
> walt



No problem. If you do the experiment I'll be interested in your results. I deliberately structured it to bias the test in favor of making LF/RF Full Range. (In the Movie version, ARC also has to adjust the Sub's solution to take into account bass steered from the Center and Surrounds.)


But I still suspect you are going to end up deciding you like things better with the Sub included and LF/RF not Full Range.

--Bob


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17256414
> 
> 
> Dr Hankz,
> 
> I have my SA 8300 PVR hooked up with hdmi and I never get any handshaking problems changing channels or doing anything else. I must be lucky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I had pretty good luck with the SA cable box I have in terms of functioning when the D2V is on. The problem comes when I turn the D2V off - then the cable box goes nuts, tries to reboot and all sorts of funky stuff.


Did you notice anything like this?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/17257038
> 
> 
> I had pretty good luck with the SA cable box I have in terms of functioning when the D2V is on. The problem comes when I turn the D2V off - then the cable box goes nuts, tries to reboot and all sorts of funky stuff.
> 
> 
> Did you notice anything like this?



I have never noticed anything like this with my D2v and SA 8300. Now as I recall, I generally turn off the cable box before the D2v. I'll have to try it the other way. I also think it might be the software version that my provider has allowed to be downloaded into the units here in Mississauga.

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17255787
> 
> 
> I want to confirm that you did what I told you to do and not what's in the text file of instructions that comes with ARC V2.2:
> 
> *After the install, manually copy the 2 files into Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction -- i.e., where the installer installs the ARC V2.2 application.*
> 
> 
> Do NOT just copy the files into the installer folder that you downloaded and expect the installer to copy them over to the destination while it is installing the ARC app.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> Microsoft pushed out a Windows Update this month that breaks the portion of the ARC installer which copies those 2 files. The upcoming ARC V2.3 release fixes that, but for now you have to copy them yourself to the proper destination folder whenever you are installing ARC on a computer that does not already have a working ARC version installed.
> 
> 
> This is true whether this first install is coming from the CD or from an install folder you downloaded from the Anthem site.
> 
> 
> [If you already have ARC V2.0 or later installed and are just updating it with a newer, downloaded version, then you don't need to manually copy those 2 files since they will already be in the right place from the prior install.]
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> Also, you can't un-install ARC just by manually deleting things. You need to use Windows Control Panel > Add/Remove Programs so that Registry entries are also removed.
> 
> 
> Finally, make sure you are running the installed copy of ARC (the one in Crogram Files/Anthem/Anthem Room Correction) and not some other version you may have in your computer -- such as the one that's in the folder you downloaded. The ARC installer puts a new Shortcut on your desktop pointing to the newly installed version to make this easy.--Bob



-----------------------------------------------


If these suggestions don't fix it for you, there's nothing for it but to call Anthem tech support tomorrow.


I guess I'll call anthem tech tomorrow. I did exactly as you said and still get the 'fail to verify' message.

The interesting(frustrating) thing is that while installing ARC thru the arc set-up it states the destination as c/...., but whenI open up the c drive there is no anthem or arc file. I end up dragging the unzipped folder to c drive. There I added the 2 files from the cd. Its quite possible its not installing correctly thanks to the latest ms update.

Just out of curiousity, did microsoft design all the hdmi copy protection codes? It seems to have their fingerprints all over it.

Since I fortunatly have a functioning ARC program running on my D2(praise God) I'll wait for ARC 2.3 and try again. But I will report my problem to Anthem tomorrow.

Thanks for your help, again, Bob. You did all you could.

Tom


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/17257038
> 
> 
> I had pretty good luck with the SA cable box I have in terms of functioning when the D2V is on. The problem comes when I turn the D2V off - then the cable box goes nuts, tries to reboot and all sorts of funky stuff.
> 
> 
> Did you notice anything like this?



Greetings,


Absolutely. I have TWC and the SA8300HD runs very smoothly when both it and the Anthem are powered. Within 2 minutes of pwering both off the 8300HD goes into a locked reboot state that can only be corrected by powering on the Anthem, removing the HDMI cable from the 8300HD. It is definitely not related to the HDMI implementation on the 8300HD but is connected to the software it is using. Mine is using the MYSTIC (spelling?) software which was uploaded within the last 3 months.


Dr. Hankz is correct about component not causing issues like this however I prefer use of HDMI. The new Anthem's have ultra smooth operation even when switching from channels with differing resolutions and I have run into a glitch with component after watching 1080p/24 content (Blu-ray for example) and swiitching over to component. I get no picture just a black screen. The only way to correct it is to power cycle the Anthem. This isn't a problem when the 8300HD is connected via HDMI.


What I do is disconnect the HDMI cable from the cable box once everything is powered off and I am done watching cable/DVR. The fit between my cable and the box is a good one and doesn't require a lot of tugging or pushing. Right before I power everything back on with the intent to watch cable I reconnect the cable. I realize that this solution isn't possible or optimum for everyone but for now I will live with it until there is a change that hopefully fixes this incompatibility.


Regards,


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17258579
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Absolutely. I have TWC and the SA8300HD runs very smoothly when both it and the Anthem are powered. Within 2 minutes of pwering both off the 8300HD goes into a locked reboot state that can only be corrected by powering on the Anthem, removing the HDMI cable from the 8300HD. It is definitely not related to the HDMI implementation on the 8300HD but is connected to the software it is using. Mine is using the MYSTIC (spelling?) software which was uploaded within the last 3 months.
> 
> 
> Dr. Hankz is correct about component not causing issues like this however I prefer use of HDMI. The new Anthem's have ultra smooth operation even when switching from channels with differing resolutions and I have run into a glitch with component after watching 1080p/24 content (Blu-ray for example) and swiitching over to component. I get no picture just a black screen. The only way to correct it is to power cycle the Anthem. This isn't a problem when the 8300HD is connected via HDMI.
> 
> 
> What I do is disconnect the HDMI cable from the cable box once everything is powered off and I am done watching cable/DVR. The fit between my cable and the box is a good one and doesn't require a lot of tugging or pushing. Right before I power everything back on with the intent to watch cable I reconnect the cable. I realize that this solution isn't possible or optimum for everyone but for now I will live with it until there is a change that hopefully fixes this incompatibility.
> 
> 
> Regards,



I manage to replicate the same issue with my setup. I am using a videotron SCI8300HD and when going through the D2V my cable box constantly end-up with a boot msg after power-off. The D2 was not causing such an issue, this is something new with the D2V.



I will investigate more and let you know about it.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/17257038
> 
> 
> I had pretty good luck with the SA cable box I have in terms of functioning when the D2V is on. The problem comes when I turn the D2V off - then the cable box goes nuts, tries to reboot and all sorts of funky stuff.
> 
> 
> Did you notice anything like this?



I have the same issue and are investigating more about this.


The D2 was not causing such issues.


----------



## Texas steve

Attached are my second set. I did some toeing in on the speakers so the HF was much better, but still a dip. Comments appreciated.


Oh and I got my new sylye remote (one was missing in box) and NON 'Null cable".


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17259703
> 
> 
> Attached are my second set. I did some toeing in on the speakers so the HF was much better, but still a dip. Comments appreciated.
> 
> 
> Oh and I got my new sylye remote (one was missing in box) and NON 'Null cable".



It still looks like you've got a crossover active inside your Sub -- at around 50Hz. No luck disabling that?


As things stand now, for Movie I think you'd be better off eliminating the Subwoofer -- which means LF/RF will be used Full Range. Bass steering from the other speakers will go to LF/RF. You won't lose LFE either. The Anthems will correctly steer LFE content to LF/RF.


Did you lower the "cutoffs" for your Music configuration manually? It's OK to do that for LF/RF since they are set to Full Range (since you are not using a sub), but you should leave the cutoff for LS/RS where ARC puts it. Bass from LS/RS will be steered to LF/RF. The residual error in LS (e.g., 400Hz) is due to ARC having to put too much resource into boosting both bass and treble. If you let bass steering happen the bass portion of that won't be necessary.


Did you manually "force" 0dB Room Gain for Movie? It's probably better to let ARC maintain the Room Gain it has found. Now you've got a big dip in Center at 150Hz that will be difficult for ARC to correct if you allow the Room Gain to be maintained, but it is better to find a fix for Center than to run with 0dB Room Gain. Note that ARC found 2.9dB Room Gain for your Music configuration.


The dip in Center can probably be corrected by repositioning. If it is on a shelf or in a cabinet try raising it a few inches. If it is free-standing you may need a bass trap on the wall behind it.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17255787
> 
> 
> 
> Microsoft pushed out a Windows Update this month that breaks the portion of the ARC installer which copies those 2 files. *The upcoming ARC V2.3 release fixes that,* but for now you have to copy them yourself to the proper destination folder whenever you are installing ARC on a computer that does not already have a working ARC version installed.
> 
> 
> 
> If these suggestions don't fix it for you, there's nothing for it but to call Anthem tech support tomorrow.
> 
> --Bob



I emailed Nick and he asked me to try ARC2.3 on the 'tech site'. That fixed it. Apparently there is a problem with Vista or Microsoft and ARC2.2 that is fixed in ARC2.3.

Anyone else having similar problems PLEASE GO TO THE PASSWORD PROTECTED PAGE AND DOWNLOAD ARC2.3. You can get a link to the site and the user name/password from Anthem Tech Support. Save yourself the frustration I experienced this weekend.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm glad that worked for you, although frankly I'm mystified why it didn't work when you copied the 2 files to the right place yourself after the ARC V2.2 install. That manual workaround has worked fine for others here.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks Bob, replies below:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17259907
> 
> 
> It still looks like you've got a crossover active inside your Sub -- at around 50Hz. No luck disabling that?
> 
> TEXAS STEVE: no luck and the thing is over 150#s and HUGE, so its staying
> 
> 
> As things stand now, for Movie I think you'd be better off eliminating the Subwoofer -- which means LF/RF will be used Full Range. Bass steering from the other speakers will go to LF/RF. You won't lose LFE either. The Anthems will correctly steer LFE content to LF/RF.
> 
> TEXAS STEVE - So the "sub" would be a endtable?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you lower the "cutoffs" for your Music configuration manually? It's OK to do that for LF/RF since they are set to Full Range (since you are not using a sub), but you should leave the cutoff for LS/RS where ARC puts it. Bass from LS/RS will be steered to LF/RF. The residual error in LS (e.g., 400Hz) is due to ARC having to put too much resource into boosting both bass and treble. If you let bass steering happen the bass portion of that won't be necessary.
> 
> TEXAS STEVE - yes sir
> 
> 
> Did you manually "force" 0dB Room Gain for Movie? It's probably better to let ARC maintain the Room Gain it has found. Now you've got a big dip in Center at 150Hz that will be difficult for ARC to correct if you allow the Room Gain to be maintained, but it is better to find a fix for Center than to run with 0dB Room Gain. Note that ARC found 2.9dB Room Gain for your Music configuration.
> 
> TEXAS STEVE - the Gain is what ARC did, should I change it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dip in Center can probably be corrected by repositioning. If it is on a shelf or in a cabinet try raising it a few inches. If it is free-standing you may need a bass trap on the wall behind it.
> 
> TEXAS STEVE - its on a shelf above the screene, angled down at the seating position. It has a rear base port - but its only about 6" from the back wall.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes, you should raise Room Gain for Movie. I'd suggest the 2.9dB ARC found for Music.


But first, try a run where you don't use the Subwoofer at all and see what ARC comes up with on its own. Right now ARC is limited because it can't get enough output in high bass from the Sub. If you eliminate the Sub, ARC will use LF/RF instead and should be able to come up with a cleaner solution. ARC may have had no choice but to use 0dB Room Gain to keep from having more errors in the other speakers where your Sub couldn't help out.


It's probably worth trying both settings of the bass port for Center first -- easier than moving it I suspect. It is often the case that the setting that produces more bass also produces problems in the mid-range.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Bob, raising the room gain to match the music, what exactly does that do from a "ear" standpoint.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17261148
> 
> 
> Yes, you should raise Room Gain for Movie. I'd suggest the 2.9dB ARC found for Music.
> 
> 
> But first, try a run where you don't use the Subwoofer at all and see what ARC comes up with on its own. Right now ARC is limited because it can't get enough output in high bass from the Sub. If you eliminate the Sub, ARC will use LF/RF instead and should be able to come up with a cleaner solution. ARC may have had no choice but to use 0dB Room Gain to keep from having more errors in the other speakers where your Sub couldn't help out.
> 
> 
> It's probably worth trying both settings of the bass port for Center first -- easier than moving it I suspect. It is often the case that the setting that produces more bass also produces problems in the mid-range.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Room Gain is a "desirable" room response characteristic. ARC Measures it and attempts to preserve it even as it is eliminating the other room characteristics. On the charts you will see Room Gain as the shallow hump near the crossover frequencies, and you can guess what it will do to the sound just from the shape and location of the hump.


Practically speaking, each room has a natural sound, and Room Gain is one of the factors in that. By preserving Room Gain, sounds in the audio track that might also occur naturally in the room (e.g., people speaking indoors, doors closing, etc.) sound the same as the real events happening in the room. So the sound track fits in better with what people expect from the room.


Movie mixers generally assume a modest amount of Room Gain in home theaters. Music mixers generally assume a flatter response in the room, but a modest amount of Room Gain isn't normally considered a problem.


In your case ARC found a normal amount of Room Gain for your Music setup but was apparently forced to cut Room Gain to 0dB to get a solution that worked for Movie. I think that's due to your Sub response, but you'll find out when you Measure again without the Sub.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Untill I remeasure, should I just force the room gain to match music and upload?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17261272
> 
> 
> Room Gain is a "desirable" room response
> 
> 
> In your case ARC found a normal amount of Room Gain for your Music setup but was apparently forced to cut Room Gain to 0dB to get a solution that worked for Movie. I think that's due to your Sub response, but you'll find out when you Measure again without the Sub.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## peechus

Bob, you often mention "forcing" room gain. I'd like to force mine a bit both up and down to see [charts] and hear what it is. Still working on that jukebox bass. Commenting on crossover values and cutoff values being inconsistent, could you open that up a little? Thanks, Peechus


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17261466
> 
> 
> Untill I remeasure, should I just force the room gain to match music and upload?



You can. Enter the new value and leave the "force" box checked. Accept the Targets, re-Calculate and re-Upload.


However, take a look in the resulting Calculated curves for additional errors near the crossovers to see if ARC is having trouble maintaining the new, higher levels there.


The Center speaker is pretty important to get right in that region.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/17261470
> 
> 
> Bob, you often mention "forcing" room gain. I'd like to force mine a bit both up and down to see [charts] and hear what it is. Still working on that jukebox bass. Commenting on crossover values and cutoff values being inconsistent, could you open that up a little? Thanks, Peechus



Generally speaking you want to use the Room Gain that ARC found as the whole idea is to preserve what your room is actually doing.


So typically you will only alter the Room Gain if you think ARC is having a problem either detecting it or preserving it due to some strangeness in your Measured speaker responses.


Some folks also prefer a bit less Room Gain for Music, but again, don't deviate a lot from what ARC found.


Typical Room Gain results are in the range 2-4dB.


----------------------------------------------


Crossovers control how bass steering happens.


Cutoffs control how ARC rolls off its room correction activities so as to free up resources for use elsewhere.


In the current versions of ARC, the crossovers are set to match the cutoffs for every speaker other than the Subwoofer. With the ARC 2.x versions, additional intelligence was added to allow ARC to pick a crossover different from the cutoff for the Subwoofer. This extra degree of freedom allows ARC to come up with cleaner solutions in many cases.


I strongly advise you don't fiddle with the cutoffs in the Targets window or the crossovers ARC Uploads to the Setup menu with one exception:


If you are doing a configuration without a Subwoofer, then for each pair of speakers which is set to Full Range you can, if you wish, lower the cutoff value ARC applies to force it to do room correction "all the way down". Set the cutoff to 25Hz. The Full Range setting will disable bass steering from that speaker pair so the crossover is irrelevant.


[Even though the speaker pair is set to Full Range, ARC will typically apply a cutoff around 40Hz so that it is rolling off room correction in the octave below that. If you are confident your speakers and amps can carry the load down into the subsonics, then you can lower that to 25Hz. Again, do this ONLY for speaker pairs set to Full Range, and only when you have no Subwoofer or you risk breaking the solution ARC is calculating for you.]

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/16109891
> 
> 
> I have run into an interesting problem with my cable boxes and the D2v. If either my SA8300HDC or my SA4250HDC are connected to the D2v with a HDMI cable and the power is off on the D2v the cable box will not "boot". The SA8300HDC will just stall out and get stuck in the boot process and the SA4250HDC will just keep cycling and trying to boot.
> 
> 
> First I thought it was a cable signal problem and I tried different cables, but when I disconnected the HDMI cable from the D2v the units would boot. In addition, if I would turn the D2v on with the HDMI cable connected the units would boot. (I also tried a different HDMI cable and HDMI inputs on the D2v and this did not help.)
> 
> 
> I did check by connecting each unit to another TV in the house via HDMI and there were no problems.
> 
> 
> I switched to a component connection and there were no problems. That is how I have the unit connected to the D2v now.
> 
> 
> I don't know if this is a SA cable box issue, or a TWC software issue, or an issue with the D2v; however, the problem was not present with my previous D2.
> 
> 
> This is primarily a problem because TWC will send software updates in the middle of the night that require the unit to reboot. When this has happended, the unit freezes because of the HDMI connection and my D2v is off in the middle of the night.
> 
> 
> I will report this problem to Anthem tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Mike





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17259017
> 
> 
> I have the same issue and are investigating more about this.
> 
> 
> The D2 was not causing such issues.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/17257038
> 
> 
> I had pretty good luck with the SA cable box I have in terms of functioning when the D2V is on. The problem comes when I turn the D2V off - then the cable box goes nuts, tries to reboot and all sorts of funky stuff.
> 
> 
> Did you notice anything like this?



As seen above, I reported this issue back in March when I received the D2v and several people have indicated they have had the same or similar issues.


I reported the problem to Anthem technical support back on 3/24/09 and Nick replied back the next day with this response:


"Hi Mike,


Don't know the cause since this is the first report. I suspect the Navigator software unless your other sources cannot be booted when plugged into the same HDMI input. If the TWC box needs to read the D2v's HDMI jack when the D2v is powered off, it should be sending power to the jack (HDMI can do that so this might have to do with the problem).


I use a 4250 with SARA which also gets 4AM updates - no problem via HDMI whether it's updates or audio/video in native mode (can't say the same about other earlier boxes).


The problem isn't easy for us to trace because we'd have to visit an area with TWC and more importantly the handshake would probably have to be logged during a cable box update. Without a schedule, this would be impractical.


Best Regards,

Nick P., Technical Support"


I am glad to know I am not the only one out there with this issue. I wonder what is different between the video HDMI section of the D2 and the D2v that this problem exists with the D2v and not the D2 with the SA equipment.


Mike


----------



## Bittornado

Hello All!


Just wanted to announce myself soon to be another hopefully very happy and satisfied Anthem owner! Today after very much consideration and also comparing Anthem to Arcam Krell Denon Marantz Classé and a couple of other brands, I just decided to go with Anthem D2V2 + P5 gear.


And let me just add that there is absolutely NOTHING wrong with those other brands mentioned above... as a matter of fact, both Classé, Arcam, Krell and Denon have flagships of truely amazing caliber.


I choose Anthem because I think it's videoprocessor is THE best out there, and because I believe the ARC system is really good. As for now and for the system I'm building at the moment, I need more video processing power than audio reproduction. In the future if I decide to put more emphasis on the audio side, I might go for something entirely different... even though Anthem certainly possesses a very competitive sound quality, I still think there are better systems out there for that sole purpose.


Anyway, since reading over 800 pages is a little bit overkill(!), I would like to throw out a question. IF this has been discussed and answered before, I do apologize and please pint me to the right direction.


Does Anthem D2V2 come with dynamic volume feature or is there a software download to add the feature to the purchased version or is that not an option for Anthem D2V2 at this moment?


Regards,

/B.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

First of all, welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!


"Dolby Volume" has already been promised for the D2v (and AVM 50v) as a free firmware upgrade. It is not out yet. It is expected to be in Beta release in October.


---------------------------


Rather than reading all 800 pages, I suggest you start by reading the tutorial and reference post links collected in the first post of this thread -- what I like to call, "The Good Parts Version".


Then I suggest you scan this thread BACKWARDS from the last page to get a feel for recent news. I certainly wouldn't suggest you scan back more than a few months. Most of the older material is outdated now and not worth reading.


If you don't already know it, you can download the latest D2v owner's manual as a PDF file from Anthem's web site:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...al/D2v_OM.html 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/17261684
> 
> 
> I wonder what is different between the video HDMI section of the D2 and the D2v that this problem exists with the D2v and not the D2 with the SA equipment.
> 
> 
> Mike



Purely at a guess, the difference is that the D2v's HDMI is HDMI V1.3. The V1.3 spec includes, for example, the optional "CEC" feature which allows one device to control another over HDMI.


My guess is that your set top box thinks it can turn on the D2v or some such over HDMI, which it can't. If that's what's going on, it would be a bug in the HDMI implementation in the set top box.


It could be even simpler -- that the box is not prepared to be connected to an HDMI V1.3 AVR at all. Even if it works OK when connected to an HDMI V1.3 TV, connection through an AVR is different.

--Bob


----------



## Bittornado




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17261860
> 
> 
> First of all, welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!
> 
> 
> "Dolby Volume" has already been promised for the D2v (and AVM 50v) as a free firmware upgrade. It is not out yet. It is expected to be in Beta release in October.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------
> 
> 
> Rather than reading all 800 pages, I suggest you start by reading the tutorial and reference post links collected in the first post of this thread -- what I like to call, "The Good Parts Version".
> 
> 
> Then I suggest you scan this thread BACKWARDS from the last page to get a feel for recent news. I certainly wouldn't suggest you scan back more than a few months. Most of the older material is outdated now and not worth reading.
> 
> 
> If you don't already know it, you can download the latest D2v owner's manual as a PDF file from Anthem's web site:
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...al/D2v_OM.html
> 
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob!


First and foremost, very much thanks for the quick reply.

You've probably heard this a thousand times before... but it's still a thrill to be able to tell you that YOU are one of the reasons why so many poeple, myself included, are so appreciative to Anthem and to Anthem products









Your great reputation simply proceeds you way out there in the cyber...










I'll just follow your advice and start by making this page as my home page for my browser










Again, thank you for the rapid reply!


Regards,

/B.


----------



## Bittornado

BTW, just one more question for now... I just read in another thread that since ARC does not support multiple sub use, connecting them through ARC would make you go mono at approximately 70 Hz which sounds very odd since that would make no sense... so if I was to use say 2 actively powered subs that are dipoles and like to go deep with them, does that present a problem for me in terms of ARC becoming useless in my case?


Regards,

/B.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bittornado* /forum/post/17261999
> 
> 
> BTW, just one more question for now... I just read in another thread that since ARC does not support multiple sub use, connecting them through ARC would make you go mono at approximately 70 Hz which sounds very odd since that would make no sense... so if I was to use say 2 actively powered subs that are dipoles and like to go deep with them, does that present a problem for me in terms of ARC becoming useless in my case?
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> /B.



Lower frequency bass has no stereo content to begin with. Bass in the lower frequencies pressurizes the entire room so that the bass appears to be coming from everywhere. It is not localizable.


This is precisely why it works to steer bass from main speakers to a subwoofer to begin with. You aren't losing any directional information.


Some folks like multiple subwoofers to get more sound pressure level (particularly in the subsonics) and to help smear out room response stuff. Both of those work just fine even with only a single bass output signal.


You'll need to better describe what you are trying to do with your subs.


If they are intended to operate in the traditional subwoofer range then you just use them as normal subs with ARC. The only thing different is that you must volume balance them against each other and also adjust their Polarity/Phase *BEFORE* you do your ARC Measurements as ARC will hear them operating together.


NOTE: When using multiple subs with ARC, specify "1 Sub" in your Speaker Configuration regardless of your actual number of subs.


If instead they are some sort of satellite sub -- wired to a main speaker and handling the low frequency end of that main speaker -- then you tell ARC that there are no subs in your setup and that the combo main speakers are Full Range.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17261618
> 
> 
> Generally speaking you want to use the Room Gain that ARC found as the whole idea is to preserve what your room is actually doing.
> 
> 
> So typically you will only alter the Room Gain if you think ARC is having a problem either detecting it or preserving it due to some strangeness in your Measured speaker responses.
> 
> 
> Some folks also prefer a bit less Room Gain for Music, but again, don't deviate a lot from what ARC found.
> 
> 
> Typical Room Gain results are in the range 2-4dB.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Crossovers control how bass steering happens.
> 
> 
> Cutoffs control how ARC rolls off its room correction activities so as to free up resources for use elsewhere.
> 
> 
> In the current versions of ARC, the crossovers are set to match the cutoffs for every speaker other than the Subwoofer. With the ARC 2.x versions, additional intelligence was added to allow ARC to pick a crossover different from the cutoff for the Subwoofer. This extra degree of freedom allows ARC to come up with cleaner solutions in many cases.
> 
> 
> I strongly advise you don't fiddle with the cutoffs in the Targets window or the crossovers ARC Uploads to the Setup menu with one exception:
> 
> 
> If you are doing a configuration without a Subwoofer, then for each pair of speakers which is set to Full Range you can, if you wish, lower the cutoff value ARC applies to force it to do room correction "all the way down". Set the cutoff to 25Hz. The Full Range setting will disable bass steering from that speaker pair so the crossover is irrelevant.
> 
> 
> [Even though the speaker pair is set to Full Range, ARC will typically apply a cutoff around 40Hz so that it is rolling off room correction in the octave below that. If you are confident your speakers and amps can carry the load down into the subsonics, then you can lower that to 25Hz. Again, do this ONLY for speaker pairs set to Full Range, and only when you have no Subwoofer or you risk breaking the solution ARC is calculating for you.]
> 
> --Bob


bob: in order to set up as a full range speaker(s), we need to check the no-sub button. correct? if so done, and measurements are made with the fronts as full range at say 40 hz, but the sub is never actually _eliminated_ from the mix, what happens?

thx

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/17262114
> 
> bob: in order to set up as a full range speaker(s), we need to check the no-sub button. correct? if so done, and measurements are made with the fronts as full range at say 40 hz, but the sub is never actually _eliminated_ from the mix, what happens?
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



You don't have to exclude the sub to make any of your speaker pairs Full Range. However, if you still have a sub, I don't recommend you do the extra step of lowering ARC's choice of "cutoff" for those speaker pairs. Stick with what ARC picks for them.


If you have both a sub and some Full Range speakers, then no bass steering will happen from the Full Range speakers. Any bass content in their channels that they can't actually handle will be lost.


The sub will play any LFE content, plus any steered bass from other speaker pairs which are not set as Full Range.


If you tell ARC you have no sub at all, it will require that LF/RF be used as Full Range whether or not they are actually able to handle that. In addition to handling their own bass, LFE content will be steered to LF/RF and bass from other speaker pairs not set to Full Range will also be steered to LF/RF. ARC will set a "cutoff" for LF/RF based on their actual response and its need to use resources elsewhere -- typically around 40Hz for true "full range" speakers. Since you have no sub, you can lower that to 25Hz if you really want to force ARC to use LF/RF all the way down into the subsonics.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

D2v just arrived. In making the switch, I notice my AVM50 weighs more than the D2v. Why is that?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You probably have the older power supply with the heavy transformer.

--Bob


----------



## jpoet

 http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/proce...processor.html 


John


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17262153
> 
> 
> You don't have to exclude the sub to make any of your speaker pairs Full Range. However, if you still have a sub, I don't recommend you do the extra step of lowering ARC's choice of "cutoff" for those speaker pairs. Stick with what ARC picks for them.
> 
> 
> If you have both a sub and some Full Range speakers, then no bass steering will happen from the Full Range speakers. Any bass content in their channels that they can't actually handle will be lost.
> 
> 
> The sub will play any LFE content, plus any steered bass from other speaker pairs which are not set as Full Range.
> 
> 
> If you tell ARC you have no sub at all, it will require that LF/RF be used as Full Range whether or not they are actually able to handle that. In addition to handling their own bass, LFE content will be steered to LF/RF and bass from other speaker pairs not set to Full Range will also be steered to LF/RF. ARC will set a "cutoff" for LF/RF based on their actual response and its need to use resources elsewhere -- typically around 40Hz for true "full range" speakers. Since you have no sub, you can lower that to 25Hz if you really want to force ARC to use LF/RF all the way down into the subsonics.
> 
> --Bob



bob; thx

walt


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17262677
> 
> 
> You probably have the older power supply with the heavy transformer.
> 
> --Bob



Isn't heavier better? And why 2 remotes with the D2v?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

1) No.


2) Zone 2? Dueling remotes?

--Bob


----------



## Donloz

Hey guys you have to see this video : http://www.soundstagev.com/showvideo...ub25_3&vtype=i 

Not only does Anthem make some GREAT H/T equipment, they also make toast. Burnt!!!!

I hope I copied it down correctly


Sorry, Paradigm little sister company, or big brother....


----------



## binkman

Lost HDMI 1 output


Have had my AVM50v for 5 weeks. Initially was using Component to a Pioneer PRO-510D that is 9 years old. This weekend we bit the bullet and switched to Panasonic P54V10 and ran output from HDMI 1 using Monster 1000HD cable: Preferred=HDMI and resolution=1080p60. It worked fine on Saturday but yesterday there was no video at all.


Switched output to HDMI 2 and get output, but as the manual states, no OSD or scaler when HDMI is set as preferred. If switch to Preferred=Component and Comp 2 Out=processed, then get OSD and scaler but resolution defaults to 1080i60 based on preferred choice.


I have emailed Anthem but no response yet. I have not updated firmware ever. I re-ran ARC after adding the new TV/stand, etc., but all worked fine after that. No storms or lightning in the time frame either.


Am I missing something or is my HDMI 1 truly gone? Having waited 6-7 weeks for the order to come in last month, I hate the idea of giving this up for a repair already.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17262779
> 
> 
> 1) No.
> 
> 
> 2) Zone 2? Dueling remotes?
> 
> --Bob



The AVM50v is 30.7 lbs. The D2v is 27 lbs. Both current models.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Make sure the plug is fully inserted straight into the socket without being tugged in any direction by the weight of the cable or whatever.


See if 480p (not 480i) output will work from that socket. If so, the cable or plug fit may be marginal.


If cabling is not the problem, Anthem will likely ask you to re-install your firmware "just in case".

--Bob


----------



## ironcorn

Hi,

On my D2v, when using the room resonance filter test tones, it only emits something that sounds like pink noise at all frequencies, 18hz - 60hz. The frequency of the noise stays the same when you scroll from 18 up to 60hz, no change. It worked fine on my old AVM 30.

Also, last night I was adjusting the speaker levels using my SPL meter. I adjusted the setting to "manual" and toggled the up button to start with the sub first. At that point the most explosive sound I've ever heard from a speaker erupted from my JL Audio F113 for about .5 seconds, sounded like a bomb went off. Then the normal test tone kicked in. Now I'm afraid to use the level setting menu as I don't want to damage my speakers if that happens again. For all I know, my sub might have been damaged. I'm not happy, but the D2v still delivers the goods, so I'll stick with it awhile longer.


----------



## binkman

Bob,


Switched back to HDMI 1, set preferred to HDMI and changed resolution to 480p. Still nothing.


Definitely seems to be the port, whether a software or physical issue to be determined.


I'll call Anthem tomorrow.










cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ironcorn* /forum/post/17263142
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> On my D2v, when using the room resonance filter test tones, it only emits something that sounds like pink noise at all frequencies, 18hz - 60hz. The frequency of the noise stays the same when you scroll from 18 up to 60hz, no change. It worked fine on my old AVM 30.
> 
> Also, last night I was adjusting the speaker levels using my SPL meter. I adjusted the setting to "manual" and toggled the up button to start with the sub first. At that point the most explosive sound I've ever heard from a speaker erupted from my JL Audio F113 for about .5 seconds, sounded like a bomb went off. Then the normal test tone kicked in. Now I'm afraid to use the level setting menu as I don't want to damage my speakers if that happens again. For all I know, my sub might have been damaged. I'm not happy, but the D2v still delivers the goods, so I'll stick with it awhile longer.



The problem with the Room Resonance Filter test tones is a known problem in the current firmware. Anthem has been informed.


The problem you experienced with the Level Calibration test tones should not exist in the V2.07 firmware. There was a bug like that in the original firmware for the D2v, but it was fixed long ago.


Please send an email to Anthem tech support with details of what you did and what happened.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Ralph

I tried turning my D2v off while watching my SA 8300 pvr to see if it would reboot but it did not. Again, this may be due to diff. software implementation by Canadian cable companies.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ironcorn* /forum/post/17263142
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> On my D2v, when using the room resonance filter test tones, it only emits something that sounds like pink noise at all frequencies, 18hz - 60hz. The frequency of the noise stays the same when you scroll from 18 up to 60hz, no change. It worked fine on my old AVM 30.
> 
> Also, last night I was adjusting the speaker levels using my SPL meter. I adjusted the setting to "manual" and toggled the up button to start with the sub first. At that point the most explosive sound I've ever heard from a speaker erupted from my JL Audio F113 for about .5 seconds, sounded like a bomb went off. Then the normal test tone kicked in. Now I'm afraid to use the level setting menu as I don't want to damage my speakers if that happens again. For all I know, my sub might have been damaged. I'm not happy, but the D2v still delivers the goods, so I'll stick with it awhile longer.



ironcorn...this 'BOMB







' also happened to me in the same setup using my AVM50v. Filter test tones do NOT work. Anthem is aware of it as Bob told them after i had trouble getting them to work properly.


EDIT: Noticed Bob already responded to your post.


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:


1. It'd be nice if Anthem added in ARC(or a separate utility) the ability to see in real-time, the speaker/room frequency response. This would greatly help someone who is trying to optimize speaker placement in their theater for better frequency response by re-positioning their speakers.


2. While at that, is it possible that they also add the ability for ARC to adjust the sub-woofer phase/polarity automatically? I believe the Anthem units already have the option of doing this. I have tried to understand sub-woofer phase adjustments from the first post of this thread and can't seem to make heads or tails about it. Right now, I've left mine at 0 degrees.


Why would one want to have the sub-woofer not in phase-sync with the rest of the speakers anyway?


3. How do we know that the results we hear measure-up with what ARC has computed? It would be helpful to compare ARC's original calculated results with the 'new' measured results. It would also be great see a combined or 'effective' frquency response at the listener position(ARC position 1) as this is what the listener uses to judge the quality of their theater system.


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17264481
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> It'd be nice if Anthem added in ARC(or a separate utility) the ability to see, in real-time, the speaker/room frequency response. This would greatly help someone who is trying to optimize speaker placement in their theater for better frequency response by re-positioning their speakers.
> 
> 
> While at that, is it possible that they also add the ability for ARC to adjust the sub-woofer phase/polarity automatically? I believe the Anthem units already have the option of doing this. I have tried to understand sub-woofer phase adjustments from the first post of this thread and can't seem to make heads or tails about it. Right now, I've left mine at 0 degrees.
> 
> 
> Why would one want to have the sub-woofer not in phase-sync with the rest of the speakers anyway?



That's not as simple as it sounds. You can download and use ARTA for free. http://www.fesb.hr/~mateljan/arta/ You just need a mic and sound card and then you can look at frequency response real time and monitor it as you make changes. Keep in mind however this will be a single point read whereas ARC is a spatial average. You might watch the response real time with ARTA while you move your woofer around and improve that one location but at the same time degrade other locations. To do this right you would need something like Easera Systune and multiple microphones. For Anthem to make ARC capable of doing this would increase the price by 10x. It wouldn't be that difficult for them to make it do basically what ARTA does but I think they realize you would end up just chasing your tail with single point measurements. That's probably why they opted not to do it. If you really want to look at it again, ARTA is free. It can be useful.


Subwoofer phase adjustment is not to put the sub out of phase with the other speakers but rather to correct it. Phase shift due to position, or shifts due to crossovers etc can be corrected by adjusting the woofers phase.


mk


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17263410
> 
> 
> Ralph
> 
> I tried turning my D2v off while watching my SA 8300 pvr to see if it would reboot but it did not. Again, this may be due to diff. software implementation by Canadian cable companies.
> 
> John



Greetings,


Thanks John. I am pretty positive that the incompatibility between my 8300HD and the Anthem is software related.



Regards,


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17263410
> 
> 
> Ralph
> 
> I tried turning my D2v off while watching my SA 8300 pvr to see if it would reboot but it did not. Again, this may be due to diff. software implementation by Canadian cable companies.
> 
> John




Jay I am connected with a canadian cable companies (Videotron) and experience the issue. My impression is more on the hw side. Its been 4 years at least that they are selling the same 8300HD box. In these years they must have changed hardware components at least a few times. Therefore you may have a different hardware/software revision than we do and not having any issues.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17264681
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Thanks John. I am pretty positive that the incompatibility between my 8300HD and the Anthem is software related.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Not necessarily.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17265157
> 
> 
> Jay I am connected with a canadian cable companies (Videotron) and experience the issue. My impression is more on the hw side. Its been 4 years at least that they are selling the same 8300HD box. In these years they must have changed hardware components at least a few times. Therefore you may have a different hardware/software revision than we do and not having any issues.



Tolstoi,

I have exchanged it several times over the last two years so maybe it is hardware within the cable box.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Typically these boxes have both firmware provided by the hardware manufacturer and software provided by the software company the cable people deal with.


In addition to problems with older hardware still in inventory, sometimes newer firmware can't be used because it doesn't work with the software version the local cable operator has chosen to use.


The bottom line is that most cable companies don't give a hoot about HDMI. It's only in there as a checkoff item. So long as the box works with Component video and Optical audio that's all they really care about.


Comcast in my area pushed out software a year ago that was KNOWN to break HDMI based on earlier pushes in other parts of the country (the now infamous Big Green Line on the Right problem). They pushed it out anyway because it implemented advertising messages in their program guide which was IMPORTANT to them. They still haven't fixed it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17264481
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> 1. It'd be nice if Anthem added in ARC(or a separate utility) the ability to see in real-time, the speaker/room frequency response. This would greatly help someone who is trying to optimize speaker placement in their theater for better frequency response by re-positioning their speakers.
> 
> 
> 2. While at that, is it possible that they also add the ability for ARC to adjust the sub-woofer phase/polarity automatically? I believe the Anthem units already have the option of doing this. I have tried to understand sub-woofer phase adjustments from the first post of this thread and can't seem to make heads or tails about it. Right now, I've left mine at 0 degrees.
> 
> 
> Why would one want to have the sub-woofer not in phase-sync with the rest of the speakers anyway?
> 
> 
> 3. How do we know that the results we hear measure-up with what ARC has computed? It would be helpful to compare ARC's original calculated results with the 'new' measured results. It would also be great see a combined or 'effective' frquency response at the listener position(ARC position 1) as this is what the listener uses to judge the quality of their theater system.



As I posted a day or so ago, Anthem already has on their list the request for a simplified Sampling test that would make a faster measurement (although that could not be used to Calculate an ARC solution) and also for an "after" Measurement that folks could use to verify results. I've no idea when they might actually do either of those.


In my case my Velodyne DD series subwoofer generates its own test sweep tones, captured by its own calibrated mic, and charts the results, so I've been able to verify that the bass and low mid-range solution ARC has come up with for my room is actually superior to the best I was able to do manually. It's not just that it is effectively flat at any one mic location -- that's relatively easy. It's that it stays effectively flat across DIFFERENT mic locations. And that's tough! The rest gets confirmed by ear of course.


-------------------------------------


You *DON'T* want the subwoofer out of phase. The whole idea of the Polarity/Phase adjustment is to insure that it is IN phase.


ARC as currently structured can not set subwoofer Phase/Polarity nor verify Polarity for any main speaker pairs because it only listens to one speaker at a time.


Setting subwoofer Phase/Polarity manually takes some practice but there's no real trick to it except to take your time and listen carefully. What are you using as a test track? What happens when you try to adjust it?

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17266149
> 
> 
> As I posted a day or so ago, Anthem already has on their list the request for a simplified Sampling test that would make a faster measurement (although that could not be used to Calculate an ARC solution) and also for an "after" Measurement that folks could use to verify results. I've no idea when they might actually do either of those.
> 
> 
> In my case my Velodyne DD series subwoofer generates its own test sweep tones, captured by its own calibrated mic, and charts the results, so I've been able to verify that the bass and low mid-range solution ARC has come up with for my room is actually superior to the best I was able to do manually. It's not just that it is effectively flat at any one mic location -- that's relatively easy. It's that it stays effectively flat across DIFFERENT mic locations. And that's tough! The rest gets confirmed by ear of course.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> You *DON'T* want the subwoofer out of phase. The whole idea of the Polarity/Phase adjustment is to insure that it is IN phase.
> 
> 
> ARC as currently structured can not set subwoofer Phase/Polarity nor verify Polarity for any main speaker pairs because it only listens to one speaker at a time.
> 
> 
> Setting subwoofer Phase/Polarity manually takes some practice but there's no real trick to it except to take your time and listen carefully. What are you using as a test track? What happens when you try to adjust it?
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


The confusion I'm having regarding sub phase adjustment stems from the notion that music, as recorded by the mastering engineer/artist, will have the speaker channels in perfect phase relationship with each other on the CD/SACD. Assuming no phase changes during the playback and amplification process in my system, then why would I want to change these phase relationships at the speaker level? I'm asking because I'm a newbee to MCH music and I want to understand better the whole idea behind phase adjustments. By changing the phasing between speaker channels, aren't I 'distorting' the music somewhat? Or does the room itself mess with the phase and what you are doing with the sub-woofer phase knob is an 180degree inverse phase function that perfectly cancels out the phase change caused by the room?


My sub only has a phase knob. No polarity adjustment. Is this normal or atypical?


The music I listen to while attempting phase adjustment from cable radio station(







), raggae mostly for its heavy bass rhythms. Changing the phase knob doesn't (to me) seem to change the music. What changes to the music should I be expecting when I'm adjusting the phase knob?


Thanks for the update on Anthem's future changes to the ARC program. I e-mailed Piero at Anthem last night on this as well, but maybe i should have sent mail to Nick, though I don't have his email address. Piero seems to take his time answering my e-mails(







)


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/17264639
> 
> 
> That's not as simple as it sounds. You can download and use ARTA for free. http://www.fesb.hr/~mateljan/arta/ You just need a mic and sound card and then you can look at frequency response real time and monitor it as you make changes. Keep in mind however this will be a single point read whereas ARC is a spatial average. You might watch the response real time with ARTA while you move your woofer around and improve that one location but at the same time degrade other locations. To do this right you would need something like Easera Systune and multiple microphones. For Anthem to make ARC capable of doing this would increase the price by 10x. It wouldn't be that difficult for them to make it do basically what ARTA does but I think they realize you would end up just chasing your tail with single point measurements. That's probably why they opted not to do it. If you really want to look at it again, ARTA is free. It can be useful.
> 
> 
> Subwoofer phase adjustment is not to put the sub out of phase with the other speakers but rather to correct it. Phase shift due to position, or shifts due to crossovers etc can be corrected by adjusting the woofers phase.
> 
> 
> mk



Thanks Montakey for the links to the free real-time audio analyzers







.


Regarding the feasibility of Anthem performing this function in ARC, I still think this can be done 'for free' if they do it on a per speaker basis. They simply have to plot to the RAW data already taken in by ARC with a slight change that the audible frequency sweeps are continuous. This can be done in the primary listening position only (ARC position 1). Why would this be a huge technical challenge?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You can't use normal content to adjust subwoofer Polarity/Phase -- or at least I can't.


You need to use a subwoofer Phase adjustment test track from a calibration DVD as described in the post link found in the Setup section of the first post of this thread. Please re-read that post.


Subwoofer Polarity/Phase is critical to adjust either when you have more than one subwoofer or when you have set your speaker configuration to steer bass from main speakers to the sub. This is because in both of those cases the sub and the main speaker (or other sub) are playing PRECISELY the same content at the same time. If they are not in phase they will cancel.


Why would they get out of phase? Because of subtle differences in the timing in the amps or because the response time for moving the massive sub speaker coil is different from moving the smaller main speaker coils, or because the distance settings for the speakers are not precisely right, or, etc., etc. Normally this is no big deal -- the differences are small. But when two speakers are playing PRECISELY the same content it is important.


You can't easily hear this when playing normal content because you've got frequencies all over the place not just near the crossovers. But the effect is real. You can see it if you measure the transition of bass between the sub and the main speaker, and you can hear it as a more natural transition of bass through the crossover frequencies.


---------------------------------------------------


If you only have one subwoofer, you can use the Polarity/Phase controls in the Anthem. Leave the sub's Phase control at 0.


If you have more than one subwoofer, then you must use controls in each sub since the Anthem's controls alter all its sub outputs the same way -- no independent settings.


Not every sub offers a Polarity control. This is unfortunate, but that's life. Polarity is like reversing the wires -- it affects all frequencies the sub produces. Phase controls affect a limited range of frequencies near the typical crossover frequencies. It is done this way because it is too expensive to build an adjustable Phase control that affects the entire range of bass frequencies. As explained in that post link cited above, this means that flipping Polarity is *NOT* the same thing as shifting Phase 180 degrees. Depending on where your crossovers are set and where the sub is placed in the room (front of room vs. back of room for example), one combo of Polarity/Phase may yield better results than the best you can achieve if you flip to the other Polarity and adjust Phase again.


But if you don't have the ability to flip Polarity, you'll still be able to come pretty close by adjusting Phase alone.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17266794
> 
> 
> You can't use normal content to adjust subwoofer Polarity/Phase -- or at least I can't.
> 
> 
> You need to use a subwoofer Phase adjustment test track from a calibration DVD as described in the post link found in the Setup section of the first post of this thread. Please re-read that post.
> 
> 
> 
> But if you don't have the ability to flip Polarity, you'll still be able to come pretty close by adjusting Phase alone.
> 
> --Bob



OK...this is beginning to make some sense now










Would the AIX disk that came with the Oppo BDP-83 have a sub-woofer adjustment track? I only saw a simple test that transitions back and forth between the sub and the left speaker, but no adjustments to the best of my knowledge. Even my old DVE disk doesn't have a phase adjustment track. I have an audio signal generator. Would that help? if not, what disk would you recommend?


My former full range ribbon speakers never had a phase adj. knob but they were of vintage 1990's design. Is it the norm nowdays for modern full range speakers to have a phase adjust function?


Thanks again for the help. Its been extremely helpful to me (and maybe a few other newbees such as myself







)!


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:


I have separate movie/music configurations with no center channel for the music mode. When I am comparing the two modes when playing music, I hear deep bass thumps when switching between the two. Is this what you observe as well? I'm not sure what the Auto-LFE does, but it doesn't produce thumps when switching it in between it and the movie mode.


Thanks,

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That's just your sub reacting to the sudden restart of the audio stream. Different speaker combos and different ARC data require the audio restart. If it bothers you, mute the audio before making the switch.


Read the Manual re Auto-LFE. If your current input includes LFE then Auto results in use of Movie, so no change compared to Movie.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17267059
> 
> 
> OK...this is beginning to make some sense now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would the AIX disk that came with the Oppo BDP-83 have a sub-woofer adjustment track? I only saw a simple test that transitions back and forth between the sub and the left speaker, but no adjustments to the best of my knowledge. Even my old DVE disk doesn't have a phase adjustment track. I have an audio signal generator. Would that help? if not, what disk would you recommend?
> 
> 
> My former full range ribbon speakers never had a phase adj. knob but they were of vintage 1990's design. Is it the norm nowdays for modern full range speakers to have a phase adjust function?
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the help. Its been extremely helpful to me (and maybe a few other newbees such as myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )!



Full Range speakers don't have Phase Adjustment because they aren't expecting to play bass from other speakers. This is an advantage of a separate subwoofer. Internally, the crossover between mid-range and bass inside the speaker is supposed to be designed to be in phase. If it is not then you have a poor quality speaker.


I suggest you check the audio theory and setup forums here for info on calibration discs and how to use them.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17267161
> 
> 
> That's just your sub reacting to the sudden restart of the audio stream. Different speaker combos and different ARC data require the audio restart. If it bothers you, mute the audio before making the switch.
> 
> 
> Read the Manual re Auto-LFE. If your current input includes LFE then Auto results in use of Movie, so no change compared to Movie.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17267246
> 
> 
> Full Range speakers don't have Phase Adjustment because they aren't expecting to play bass from other speakers. This is an advantage of a separate subwoofer. Internally, the crossover between mid-range and bass inside the speaker is supposed to be designed to be in phase. If it is not then you have a poor quality speaker.
> 
> 
> I suggest you check the audio theory and setup forums here for info on calibration discs and how to use them.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks a bunch Bob







!


----------



## jayray

In case people haven't heard, firmware 3.01 for the ps3 seems to be creating a BD playback issue. Details are on the highdefdigest.com site. They are saying to stick with the 3.00 version. Sony apparently is blaming hardware and asking people to pay $150 to repair it.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17268144
> 
> 
> In case people haven't heard, firmware 3.01 for the ps3 seems to be creating a BD playback issue. Details are on the highdefdigest.com site. They are saying to stick with the 3.00 version. Sony apparently is blaming hardware and asking people to pay $150 to repair it.
> 
> John



Do you mean *THIS ARTICLE*


Knock on wood - no problems here and I have (3) PS3s with 3.01


----------



## bluemark81

Just finished hooking up my new D2v and I'm getting no sound regardless of the source I try. I double checked connections. Settings were simply transferred from my AVM50. All appears ok, but not a sound from anything. Any hints?


Update: As soon as I went to menu 9 ADC/Audio Output, I got a slight pop and now I am getting a slight hiss from all channels. As I switch through the various frequencies of a. and b., I get a slight pop.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17268403
> 
> 
> Just finished hooking up my new D2v and I'm getting no sound regardless of the source I try. I double checked connections. Settings were simply transferred from my AVM50. All appears ok, but not a sound from anything. Any hints?



Ship it to me - I'll DEBUG it here.

















I'm sure it is something simple.


----------



## gdc

Save your settings and reload Factory settings. Switch to the FM radio and see if you get anything at all.


You also might try the Headphone jack, which will bypass some electronics to help you isolate the problem.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17268489
> 
> 
> Save your settings and reload Factory settings. Switch to the FM radio and see if you get anything at all.
> 
> 
> You also might try the Headphone jack, which will bypass some electronics to help you isolate the problem.



I get nothing!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17268382
> 
> 
> Do you mean *THIS ARTICLE*
> 
> 
> Knock on wood - no problems here and I have (3) PS3s with 3.01



That's the one. You seem to have good luck with electronic devices









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17268584
> 
> 
> That's the one. You seem to have good luck with electronic devices
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Sometime I have good luck - sometimes I have a nightmare.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17268545
> 
> 
> I get nothing!



Do you get nothing from the headphone jack?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/17268737
> 
> 
> Do you get nothing from the headphone jack?



Only the same hiss I get from the speakers. I also get popping from the speakers as I turn the volume up and down.


I need Bob!


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17268763
> 
> 
> Only the same hiss I get from the speakers. I also get popping from the speakers as I turn the volume up and down.
> 
> 
> I need Bob!



You're right about Bob. He's probably forgotten as much knowledge today as I have accumulated in my lifetime. But-

Make sure your amps are being triggered on and are actually on,and

Make sure the anthem is powered on to 'main', and not one of the other zones.

That's the end of my suggestions. Sorry.

If Bob doesn't chime in call your dealer or Anthem tech support.

Tom


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/17268931
> 
> 
> You're right about Bob. He's probably forgotten as much knowledge today as I have accumulated in my lifetime. But-
> 
> Make sure your amps are being triggered on and are actually on,and
> 
> Make sure the anthem is powered on to 'main', and not one of the other zones.
> 
> That's the end of my suggestions. Sorry.
> 
> If Bob doesn't chime in call your dealer or Anthem tech support.
> 
> Tom



Everything is connected properly and my amps are on at all times. I am getting some hiss, so I assume something is coming through, but unfortunately, no audio. My Anthem is set to main. I have had a AVM50 for a few years, so I like to think I'm somewhat familiar with the settings, but this one has me beat. I have been in touch with Nick at Anthem and he has already got me to load 2.07f software. That didn't help at all though.


Here we go again! I questioned whether I should get another one.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17269131
> 
> 
> Everything is connected properly and my amps are on at all times. I am getting some hiss, so I assume something is coming through, but unfortunately, no audio. My Anthem is set to main. I have had a AVM50 for a few years, so I like to think I'm somewhat familiar with the settings, but this one has me beat. I have been in touch with Nick at Anthem and he has already got me to load 2.07f software. That didn't help at all though.
> 
> 
> Here we go again! I questioned whether I should get another one.



If Nick couldn't help you, there's nothing I can add.

I hope I'm wrong, but it looks like you may need a replacement.

Tom


----------



## binkman

I reinstalled firmware 2.07 and that didn't affect the missing output. So I called Anthem today. They suspected either a loose connection or bad HDMI connector board. I took the case off and found the board was not fully seated. Once snapped in place - all is well. HDMI 1 is back and I can again enjoy 1080p.


I think I have read someone else had a similar issue. It's an easy fix.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/17269302
> 
> 
> If Nick couldn't help you, there's nothing I can add.
> 
> I hope I'm wrong, but it looks like you may need a replacement.
> 
> Tom



I've packed it up and returning it to the dealer tomorrow


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17269578
> 
> 
> I've packed it up and returning it to the dealer tomorrow



Greetings,


So sorry to hear about the trouble bluemark. I hope you decide to give the AVM50v another try...



Regards,


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *binkman* /forum/post/17269558
> 
> 
> I reinstalled firmware 2.07 and that didn't affect the missing output. So I called Anthem today. They suspected either a loose connection or bad HDMI connector board. I took the case off and found the board was not fully seated. Once snapped in place - all is well. HDMI 1 is back and I can again enjoy 1080p.
> 
> 
> I think I have read someone else had a similar issue. It's an easy fix.



Greetings,













Regards,


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17269667
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> So sorry to hear about the trouble bluemark. I hope you decide to give the AVM50v another try...
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



It was a D2v, but thanks. Got it because I had issues with my AVM50.


----------



## dmusoke

Hi anyone







:


Has anyone tried to re-ARC their already ARC'd system in order to compare the new measured results with the original calculated ARC'd data? Of course, this new measured data would not be uploaded to the pre-pro. I thought of this wacky idea as a way to verify that what ARC claims and what it actually measures. Does it make sense?


----------



## obie_fl

No because the previous ARC results are not used during the "re-ARC" run.


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ironcorn* /forum/post/17263142
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Also, last night I was adjusting the speaker levels using my SPL meter. I adjusted the setting to "manual" and toggled the up button to start with the sub first. At that point the most explosive sound I've ever heard from a speaker erupted from my JL Audio F113 for about .5 seconds, sounded like a bomb went off. Then the normal test tone kicked in. Now I'm afraid to use the level setting menu as I don't want to damage my speakers if that happens again. For all I know, my sub might have been damaged. I'm not happy .....



I had a very similar incident last night that also happened using the speaker level menu. Like you I was doing a bit of tweaking and had just saved my settings in the "save user setting" menu. When I returned to the "speaker level settings" menu and I went to engage the test tone I was greeted by a "pop" of extreme volume. The "pop" sounded similar to gun shot and scared the bejesous out of me. It appeared to come from the left front speaker and I was scared it might have damaged something. Last night everything seemed to be normal but this evening I discovered the rear channel of my power amp is dead. It was working before the D2v "pop" but it isn't now.


Since I run a 6.1 system I was able to move the back channel over to the unused amp channel but now my amp has been reduced from a 7.1 unit to a 6.1







I guess something in the amp could have let loose but it seems like an unlikely coincidence that it would happen under no load just as I was engaging the speaker test tone.


Like you, I'm not happy either. In fact I'm pretty upset. NOTHING the end user could possibly do should result this kind of behavior in a processor. Especially to the point of damaging other equipment downstream. As luck would have it I have new speakers coming in very soon and I'm quite happy this happened before they got here.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/17270324
> 
> 
> I had a very similar indecent last night that also happened using the speaker level menu. Like you I was doing a bit of tweaking and had just saved my settings in the "save user setting" menu. When I returned to the "speaker level settings" menu and I went to engage the test tone I was greeted by a "pop" of extreme volume. The "pop" sounded similar to gun shot and scared the bejesous out of me. It appeared to come from the left front speaker and I was scared it might have damaged something. Last night everything seemed to be normal but this evening I discovered the rear channel of my power amp is dead. It was working before the D2v "pop" but it isn't now.
> 
> 
> Since I run a 6.1 system I was able to move the back channel over to the unused amp channel but now my amp has been reduced from a 7.1 unit to a 6.1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess something in the amp could have let loose but it seems like an unlikely coincidence that it would happen under no load just as I was engaging the speaker test tone.
> 
> 
> Like you, I'm not happy either. In fact I'm pretty upset. NOTHING the end user could possibly do should result this kind of behavior in a processor. Especially to the point of damaging other equipment downstream. As luck would have it I have new speakers coming in very soon and I'm quite happy this happened before they got here.



This scares me. I'm kind of glad that I got no sound out of mine.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17270199
> 
> 
> No because the previous ARC results are not used during the "re-ARC" run.



Thanks Obie...just a thought!


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17266764
> 
> 
> Thanks Montakey for the links to the free real-time audio analyzers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Regarding the feasibility of Anthem performing this function in ARC, I still think this can be done 'for free' if they do it on a per speaker basis. They simply have to plot to the RAW data already taken in by ARC with a slight change that the audible frequency sweeps are continuous. This can be done in the primary listening position only (ARC position 1). Why would this be a huge technical challenge?



Yes, like I said, to make it have some of the basic functions of something like ARTA would be pretty easy for them and I think Bob mentioned that is in the works.


To further clarify the woofer phase shift, think of two point sources of a 100 Hz tone that are spaced just over 5.5 ft apart. The wavelength at 100 Hz is a little over 11 ft long. You are standing in line with the two point sources such that you are 5.5 ft closer to one than the other. Both are playing the same 100 Hz tone at the same level. Because the farther one is 1/2 wavelength away from the closer one, the summation of the two at your position is zero. They cancel each other completely. The signal from the first one has rotated 1/2 wavelength in flight by the time it pass by and adds to the other. By reversing the phase of either by 180 deg, they become 360 deg out of phase...or in effect 0 deg. This of course is a simplified example but the principal holds for different frequencies at different spacing distances. The same setup will be initially 90 deg out of phase at 50 Hz for example where the wavelength is something over 22 ft long. If your woofer and your main speaker are the same distance from the listening position then possibly setting the woofer phase shift to 0 will work fine....but there are other factors at play.


There is a crossover between your main speaker and your woofer. Crossovers create phase shift in the transition from their pass band to their stop band. Do a key word search on Wikipedia for "Butterworth filter" or "Linkwitz filter" or "Linkwitz crossover". They actually have some pretty good explanations there. Also linkwitzlab.com has even more details. Study in particular the phase shifts each type creates.


When the main speaker and woofer are not an integrated design there are a lot of unknown variables. Most processors and receivers use a 2nd order high pass slope on the main speakers and a 4th order low pass slope on the subwoofer output. This is because they know your speaker is going to have a natural slope of at least 2nd order due to the electromechanical nature. If it happens your speakers natural acoustic roll off is 50 Hz with a Q of 0.707 then setting your processors high pass filter to 50 Hz will most likely give you a net sum of a very nice 4th order Linkwitz filter. This is because the processors filter is most likely a 2nd order Butterworth (Q = 0.707) and cascaded with your speaker, the result is a LR4 (4th order Linkwitz Riley) This is nice because now it mates well with your woofer. The high pass and low pass filters are in phase at the crossover frequency so assuming no delta in the distance to listening position, everything works fine.


The problem is that you can not assume your speaker will have a natural 2nd order roll off at the exact frequency where you want to cross between the main and the sub. Well, not unless you design and build it that way. Ported speakers for example have higher order natural roll off and for best results should be crossed over with a 4th order filter well above the natural roll off of the speaker. Generally the processor will not have an option for a 4th order high pass. This is one reason I don't like ported speakers. (I don't like any box speaker in fact, ported, sealed, or otherwise)


So, how does all this relate to your woofer phase question? Simple, the phase relationship between your woofer and main speaker could be anywhere based on the natural roll off of your main (which also has a related phase shift) and the types filters used. How can you measure this? Well, you really only need to measure it at the crossover frequency because you can't do much about it elsewhere independently. When the woofer and main speaker are in phase at the crossover frequency, there will be a maximum in the sum of the two. So, put your tone generator at the crossover frequency and look at the response at the main listening position. Adjusting the woofer phase should change the output and bringing the output to a maximum should have the two in phase at that one listening location. (you can use an spl meter) Who knows what it's going to do at frequencies each side of this because there are two many variables. You may not even want a maximum at the crossover frequency because this assumes a particular filter mate between the two. The Linkwitz Riley should be in phase at the crossover frequency and each source is -6 dB at that frequency. A Butterworth however puts each source at - 3 dB and there should be a phase difference between the two. (And people wonder why I don't use subwoofer outputs but rather make the main speaker and woofer an integrated design).


Again, study filter topologies on Wikipedia and on Linkwitzlab. Once you see what goes on with phase at crossover frequencies with different types of filters it will make more sense. I just wish we would have had the internet and resources like this 30 years ago when I was trying to make sense of it all.


I hope it's not muddier than ever now. With a conventional system like 99.999% of people have, things can only be approximated. I would suggest using ARTA using the Periodic noise source or the MLS source to optimize it best you can. The best way would be to monitor frequency response while you rotate the phase knob and adjust for the flattest response. You should see a null where they are not in phase and a maximum where they are in phase. Adjust for best flat response, not for the maximum. Of course your room also impacts this so the only right way to do it is to put the speakers and sub on tall stands outdoors so they are as far from reflective sources as possible but since you are limited to the woofer phase knob and can approximate at best anyway, just do it in the room.


Note: Keep in mind two sine waves add to make just one new sine wave of some new magnitude and phase. Don't think of them separately like you are listening to some unintended two different phases. It's normal for there to be a transition of phase at the crossover frequency and where ever you leave your phase knob set, your net result is just one magnitude and phase that is the sum of the main output and the sub output. You want that sum to add up to the proper magnitude and the phase at that point will just be some point along a transition between the two.


mk


----------



## dherrick

I have an AVM50 that I have recently had a problem with the onscreen display of the setup menu.


I am able to get the setup menu to display on the unit itself but only get a blank blue screen on my video monitor. The unit is 3 years old and I am using firmware version 1.31 and HDMI to my video monitor.


It had been working fine until about a week ago and I get full video display of the picture and onscreen display of the volume et al. The only issue seems to be with the onscreen display of the setup menu.


Anyone have any experience with any similar stiuation and/or advice on how to deal with this issue before I contact Anthem tech support?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/17270720
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50 that I have recently had a problem with the onscreen display of the setup menu.
> 
> 
> I am able to get the setup menu to display on the unit itself but only get a blank blue screen on my video monitor. The unit is 3 years old and I am using firmware version 1.31 and HDMI to my video monitor.
> 
> 
> It had been working fine until about a week ago and I get full video display of the picture and onscreen display of the volume et al. The only issue seems to be with the onscreen display of the setup menu.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any experience with any similar stiuation and/or advice on how to deal with this issue before I contact Anthem tech support?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Tech support has a toll free number and they really are good guys to talk to. Ask for Nick and he is likely to narrow this down pretty fast.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/17270720
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50 that I have recently had a problem with the onscreen display of the setup menu.
> 
> 
> I am able to get the setup menu to display on the unit itself but only get a blank blue screen on my video monitor. The unit is 3 years old and I am using firmware version 1.31 and HDMI to my video monitor.
> 
> 
> It had been working fine until about a week ago and I get full video display of the picture and onscreen display of the volume et al. The only issue seems to be with the onscreen display of the setup menu.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any experience with any similar stiuation and/or advice on how to deal with this issue before I contact Anthem tech support?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



The usual solution for this is to re-install the firmware -- in your case use the "official" V1.33 firmware from the Anthem web site, which has only minor changes from the V1.31 you have been using.


I don't believe it's ever been explained why this sometimes happen for some folks, but it is almost always the case that a firmware re-install fixes it.


Do the firmware re-install just like you are doing it for the first time: Remove wall power from sources and display to make sure you have no powered HDMI connections during the install and Reload Factory Defaults prior to the install. You can use Saved User or Installer Settings to stash and restore your settings across the install.


The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source. If re-installing the firmware doesn't fix the problem, and in particular if you discover you also can't get other S-video inputs to produce HDMI video output, then you probably have a hardware problem in your video board.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17269578
> 
> 
> I've packed it up and returning it to the dealer tomorrow



Catching up on the prior posts, yes this looks like a hardware problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/17270324
> 
> 
> I had a very similar incident last night that also happened using the speaker level menu. Like you I was doing a bit of tweaking and had just saved my settings in the "save user setting" menu. When I returned to the "speaker level settings" menu and I went to engage the test tone I was greeted by a "pop" of extreme volume. The "pop" sounded similar to gun shot and scared the bejesous out of me. It appeared to come from the left front speaker and I was scared it might have damaged something. Last night everything seemed to be normal but this evening I discovered the rear channel of my power amp is dead. It was working before the D2v "pop" but it isn't now.
> 
> 
> Since I run a 6.1 system I was able to move the back channel over to the unused amp channel but now my amp has been reduced from a 7.1 unit to a 6.1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess something in the amp could have let loose but it seems like an unlikely coincidence that it would happen under no load just as I was engaging the speaker test tone.
> 
> 
> Like you, I'm not happy either. In fact I'm pretty upset. NOTHING the end user could possibly do should result this kind of behavior in a processor. Especially to the point of damaging other equipment downstream. As luck would have it I have new speakers coming in very soon and I'm quite happy this happened before they got here.



Please do let Anthem tech support know what happened.


Do you happen to remember what audio source / audio format was selected for input prior to going into Setup > Level Calibration?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *binkman* /forum/post/17269558
> 
> 
> I reinstalled firmware 2.07 and that didn't affect the missing output. So I called Anthem today. They suspected either a loose connection or bad HDMI connector board. I took the case off and found the board was not fully seated. Once snapped in place - all is well. HDMI 1 is back and I can again enjoy 1080p.
> 
> 
> I think I have read someone else had a similar issue. It's an easy fix.



We've had several reports here of this fix working. It looks to me like Anthem needs to find a way to better secure the daughter board to the main video board during shipment.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17269131
> 
> 
> Everything is connected properly and my amps are on at all times. I am getting some hiss, so I assume something is coming through, but unfortunately, no audio. My Anthem is set to main. I have had a AVM50 for a few years, so I like to think I'm somewhat familiar with the settings, but this one has me beat. I have been in touch with Nick at Anthem and he has already got me to load 2.07f software. That didn't help at all though.
> 
> 
> Here we go again! I questioned whether I should get another one.



Apparently you have a hardware problem. Even if you had the audio output wires connected to the wrong jacks you should be getting FM/AM audio on the headphone jack.


[The other thing to check if something like this happens, is whether you can get output from Setup > Level Calibration.]


It could be you have just been unlucky. But I think you've been following this thread long enough to realized that total audio failures like this are exceedingly rare.


So given this, and given your prior problems with the AVM 50, I think it would be wise to consider carefully if there is any possibility you might be feeding strange voltages into the Anthem in your setup.


This could happen if you have a ground loop that you are not aware of, or if you are using a "Y" splitter on inputs or outputs in an improper way, or if trigger connections are connected to a voltage output instead of input, or if your wall power is faulty, or if you are using an external antenna (including AM/FM) that is not properly grounded, or if you are using the power output on the external IR block incorrectly, or if your audio (or video) output connections have an intermittent short. Also think of anything out of the ordinary that you might be doing in your external connections. For example if you have a subwoofer that is hooked directly to the Anthem AND to a main speaker, voltages may be pushed back into the Anthem.


This is not to blame you, of course. But when you have two failures like this you have to start thinking there might be an environmental cause.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17272786
> 
> 
> Apparently you have a hardware problem. Even if you had the audio output wires connected to the wrong jacks you should be getting FM/AM audio on the headphone jack.
> 
> 
> [The other thing to check if something like this happens, is whether you can get output from Setup > Level Calibration.]
> 
> 
> It could be you have just been unlucky. But I think you've been following this thread long enough to realized that total audio failures like this are exceedingly rare.
> 
> 
> So given this, and given your prior problems with the AVM 50, I think it would be wise to consider carefully if there is any possibility you might be feeding strange voltages into the Anthem in your setup.
> 
> 
> This could happen if you have a ground loop that you are not aware of, or if you are using a "Y" splitter on inputs or outputs in an improper way, or if trigger connections are connected to a voltage output instead of input, or if your wall power is faulty, or if you are using an external antenna (including AM/FM) that is not properly grounded, or if you are using the power output on the external IR block incorrectly, or if your audio (or video) output connections have an intermittent short. Also think of anything out of the ordinary that you might be doing in your external connections. For example if you have a subwoofer that is hooked directly to the Anthem AND to a main speaker, voltages may be pushed back into the Anthem.
> 
> 
> This is not to blame you, of course. But when you have two failures like this you have to start thinking there might be an environmental cause.
> 
> --Bob



Bob: Finally....where have you been?


All I get out of the headphones is hiss regardless of input, including the tuner.


I get nothing from level calibration.


I realize that this is likely a very rare occurance. Of course, I can't win the lotto though!


I've wondered the same thing Bob regarding strange voltages or connections and I had everything checked over thoroughly when the AVM50 started acting up. Definitely no Y's or splitters. With the AVM, I'm still convinced it had something to do with the ARC installation since that issue popped up as soon as I had ARC installed.


No external antenna except the one that came with it.


My sub is only using the XLR sub out. The video from my sub (DD15) goes directly to my display.


All power is routed through a PS Audio Quintet.


I did end up trying the D2v on another 2 ch system I have in another room and got the same results.....nothing.


I appreciate the comments, but I'm not sure if there is anything there that might be causing this. The only thing I did initially was to plug it in another wall plug to transfer all settings and video settings from my AVM to the D2v. That seemed to work without a hitch.


I've had many receivers prior to the AVM and now the D2v, and have never, ever had any issues, so I'm not sure if it is at my end or at Anthems. I guess the replacement will tell the story.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well you've already tried everything that I could suggest short of opening up the chassis to see if anything had obviously come loose.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

A second part review of the D2v has been posted at Secrets. Link is below.

John

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^Apparently Chris likes it!











> Quote:
> The Anthem Statement D2v and A5 separates are the finest electronics I have had in my theater to date.



--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17273379
> 
> 
> ^^Apparently Chris likes it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Funny, that's what I've said on many occasions too, however Bluemark81 may not feel this way today









John


----------



## "MIKEY"

Any insight on what ARC 2.3 brings to the table for D2 users?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*ARC V2.3 Now "Official" for All ARC-capable Anthem Processors!*


As expected, Anthem has wasted no time making ARC V2.3 "official" for all ARC capable processors. It is now available from Anthem's public download page for each processor.


The release notes for changes since the prior "official" version, V2.2, read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.3:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for Windows installer which as of Sep. 2009 stopped installing serialized mic calibration and license files.
> 
> 
> 2. One mic per preamp restriction lifted. If you have serialized files for multiple units, ARC will ask which mic you're using before running a measurement. The files pertaining to the mic are still required to ensure that its frequency response is known.
> 
> 
> 3. Fixed erase function.



As you can see, there are no audio quality related fixes in this new version. The only really important fix is to make the installer once again properly install the pair of licensing/calibration files in the face of whatever change Microsoft pushed out this month which broke that.


If you already have an ARC setup Uploaded into your Anthem from a recent ARC version (say V2.1 or V2.2) there is no need to redo it just for ARC V2.3. Nothing has changed in this ARC version that affects the audio. You can use ARC V2.3 to re-Upload older solutions at least as far back as V2.0. So you might as well install it on your Windows PC now and get that out of the way.


Both the ARC application itself, and the installer are newer than the prior ARC V2.3 (rc2) "test" version from the password protected download page. I suspect the only difference is to get the naming right for "official" release, but just to be on the safe side, if you have already installed "test" ARC V2.3 (rc2) on your Windows PC I recommend you replace it with "official" ARC V2.3. *Since the version number is the same, you will first have to un-install the "test" version using Windows Add/Remove Programs.* NOTE: Anthem's password protected download page has also been updated today to match what's on the public download page -- i.e., the "official" version.


There is one other change in the "official" version. A new Excel spreadsheet, "anthem_hex-data.xls" has been added to the Utilities folder. I suspect this is a listing of the IR codes the remote control sends out for the Main, Zone 2, and Zone 3 "devices" that share the Anthem chassis.

*IMPORTANT NOTE:* ARC will now let you use any ARC mic you have with any ARC-capable processor. Just copy the 2 licensing/calibration files for the other mic into Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction along with the 2 serialized files that came with your original ARC install kit. If ARC finds more than one pair of files installed it will ask you which ARC mic you are actually using this time. *BEWARE! ARC CAN NOT TELL IF YOU GIVE IT THE WRONG ANSWER!* ARC can tell whether the USB mic you have connected is actually an ARC mic, but it CAN'T tell if it is the CORRECT ARC mic. It is up to you to give ARC the right answer, or ARC will use the wrong mic's calibration data file and your results will be screwed up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Installing ARC from Scratch -- September, 2009, and Later*


In September, 2009, Microsoft pushed out a change to their Windows XP and Vista software which breaks the ARC installer versions older than V2.3. The change prevents the installer from properly copying the pair of licensing/calibration files into the proper installed application location on your Windows computer.


These files only need to be copied once. After that you can download and install new versions of ARC from Anthem's web site and the new version will simply use the pair of files that are already installed.


Indeed, even if you uninstall ARC using Windows Add/Remove Programs that pair of files are left in place.


So this is ONLY an issue if you are installing ARC for the first time on a new Windows PC, or have erased your Windows PC drive and now need to install ARC again as if it was the first time.


--------------------------------------------------


If you need to do that and the version of ARC on your original ARC install CD is V2.3 or later, then just insert your ARC install CD and let Setup (the installer) run from there. You don't need to do anything special.


You can now download any newer "official" version from Anthem's public software download page for your processor and install it on top of this first install to bring everything up to date.


--------------------------------------------------


If you need to do that, and if the ARC version on your original ARC install CD is older than V2.3, then do the following:


1) Go to the Anthem public software download page for your processor and download the latest "official" version of ARC. As of today that is V2.3 for all ARC-capable processors. Un-zip that download to extract the ARC install kit folder. Open that folder and then open the folder inside it containing the ARC application and the Setup.exe installer application.


2) Insert your original ARC install CD. If the ARC installer starts up automatically, just exit out of it. View the contents of your install CD (double click on it in My Computer if necessary). Open the folder on it which contains the ARC application and the Setup.exe installer application.


3) In that folder on your original ARC install CD you will find your pair of licensing/calibration files. They are easy to spot as they have names made up of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem processor and the serial number of your ARC mic. Drag those 2 files from your CD to the open folder from the downloaded ARC install kit -- i.e., into the same place as the new ARC application and the new Setup.exe installer application.


4) Close the folders from your CD and eject the CD.


5) In the downloaded ARC install kit folder, double click on Setup to begin the installation. The Setup program (installer) will copy your 2 licensing/calibration files into the proper location along with the ARC application itself.


6) You can verify that all this has worked by checking in Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction. You should find the newly installed ARC application as well as your pair of licensing/calibration files.


7) As always, I recommend you reboot your Windows PC after doing any install (or uninstall).


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17273454
> 
> 
> Funny, that's what I've said on many occasions too, however Bluemark81 may not feel this way today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Just a hiccup. They're getting me a new one and it should be here early next week. I'm disappointed, but I still have my AVM50 so I'm not without anything.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17275413
> 
> 
> Just a hiccup. They're getting me a new one and it should be here early next week. I'm disappointed, but I still have my AVM50 so I'm not without anything.



Hopefully just in time for those cold New Brunswick winds







Soon you too will be in audio heaven. Good luck.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17273263
> 
> 
> A second part review of the D2v has been posted at Secrets. Link is below.
> 
> John
> 
> http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17273379
> 
> 
> ^^Apparently Chris likes it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Attention y'all D2v users: His detailed review of the AVM50v in this same issue was just as glowing





















:


"_Enough_ has been said about the audio output quality of the AVM series that I don't need to reinvent the wheel here. As mentioned at the onset of the review, that portion of the product is practically unchanged since the original and *continues to impress and inspire with its insanely neutral and natural quality, ridiculously low noise floor, and flawless presentation. At the end of the day, this is what really counts.*"


See... us 50v folks certainly never got sloppy seconds behind you d2v folks


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/17270626
> 
> 
> Yes, like I said, to make it have some of the basic functions of something like ARTA would be pretty easy for them and I think Bob mentioned that is in the works.
> 
> 
> 
> Note: Keep in mind two sine waves add to make just one new sine wave of some new magnitude and phase. Don't think of them separately like you are listening to some unintended two different phases. It's normal for there to be a transition of phase at the crossover frequency and where ever you leave your phase knob set, your net result is just one magnitude and phase that is the sum of the main output and the sub output. You want that sum to add up to the proper magnitude and the phase at that point will just be some point along a transition between the two.
> 
> 
> mk



Montekay:


Dude...this is meat and deep indeed. Thank you so very much!!! Seriously, now I'm having to re-familiarize myself with filter design theory via the links you provided







. Your tutorial has been truly helpful and will have to print it out for further study. In many many ways, you are Bob-like in patience with your explanations







.


Thanks indeed...


God Bless,

David


----------



## Texas steve

Bob, here are my measurments for movie. If you recall I have a LARGE sub that I can not adjust the crossover. You suggesed I run ARC without the sub to see what it looks like.


Attached are two files, one with and one w/o the sub. Your comments greatly appreciated.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17275893
> 
> 
> Hopefully just in time for those cold New Brunswick winds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Soon you too will be in audio heaven. Good luck.
> 
> John



You had to bring that up! Hopefully, the beautiful weather we've been having continues for a while yet. They are supposed to expedite another D2v to me, but I'm not optimistic it'll arrive by the weekend. I'm glad I still have my AVM50.


----------



## dherrick

Bob,


Thanks for the reply. From the wording of your reply, it sounds like this has happened to folks before.


I'll try installing v1.33 firmware. The only reason I hadn't installed it before was that, as you state, there wasn't much of a change between v1.31 and v1.33 other than removing some output resolutions from the output selection. So I didn't see the need to go through the process again.


I'll give it a try and let you know. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17276368
> 
> 
> Bob, here are my measurments for movie. If you recall I have a LARGE sub that I can not adjust the crossover. You suggesed I run ARC without the sub to see what it looks like.
> 
> 
> Attached are two files, one with and one w/o the sub. Your comments greatly appreciated.



As I expected, your solution without the subwoofer looks better. It is most obvious at the high frequencies, which ARC can now apply more resource to since it isn't fighting to make the bass work with your sub.


I just want to confirm that ARC decided on its own to set a 25Hz cutoff for Center.


Center looks like you might even be able to run it Full Range as well. If you adjusted its cutoff yourself, you should also set it to Full Range. If ARC picked that 25Hz, then you have the option of running it Full Range which you might like better.


----------------------


Now another option would be to use the sub but set all 3 fronts to Full Range. You might like what the sub offers better in the low subsonics below 20Hz. The tradeoff is that the sub is not as good a match for bass steering from the surrounds as the Full Range fronts. And putting the sub back in may make it harder for ARC to free up resources to correct the weak high end in your speakers.


As things stand now, particularly given your need for help at the high end, I think you'll likely find the solution without the sub sounds best.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/17276406
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. From the wording of your reply, it sounds like this has happened to folks before.
> 
> 
> I'll try installing v1.33 firmware. The only reason I hadn't installed it before was that, as you state, there wasn't much of a change between v1.31 and v1.33 other than removing some output resolutions from the output selection. So I didn't see the need to go through the process again.
> 
> 
> I'll give it a try and let you know. Thanks again.



Yes, this has happened to others. It is random, and pretty rare.


It is the re-install which usually provides the fix -- not any difference in V1.33. But if you are going to install anyway, you might as well use V1.33.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks here using the Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player, Oppo has just put out the 0925 firmware as an "official" public release.


Highly recommended!


ETA: NOTE -- if you do a network install you may have to do it twice to get all 3 parts of this update.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks Bob, a couple of questions below;


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17276487
> 
> 
> As I expected, your solution without the subwoofer looks better. It is most obvious at the high frequencies, which ARC can now apply more resource to since it isn't fighting to make the bass work with your sub.
> 
> 
> I just want to confirm that ARC decided on its own to set a 25Hz cutoff for Center. YES SIR IT DID
> 
> 
> Center looks like you might even be able to run it Full Range as well. If you adjusted its cutoff yourself, you should also set it to Full Range. If ARC picked that 25Hz, then you have the option of running it Full Range which you might like better.
> 
> IF I SET IT TO FULL RANGE, I ASSUME I DO THAT IN THE "SPEAKER SET UP" IN THE D2V? WOULD I HAVE TO RERUN ARC?
> 
> OR I GUESS I COULD DO ALL THESE IN THE "TARGET" SETTING IN ARC AND RECALCULATE?
> 
> 
> ----------------------
> 
> 
> Now another option would be to use the sub but set all 3 fronts to Full Range. You might like what the sub offers better in the low subsonics below 20Hz. The tradeoff is that the sub is not as good a match for bass steering from the surrounds as the Full Range fronts. And putting the sub back in may make it harder for ARC to free up resources to correct the weak high end in your speakers.
> 
> IF I SET ALL 3 TO FULL RANGE;
> 
> 1. LIKE ABOVE I ASSUME I DO THAT IN SPEAKER SET UP OR DO I DO IT IN THE "MOVIE" IN THE D2V/
> 
> 2. WOULD I HAVE TO RE-RUN ARC?
> 
> 3. WHAT SHOULD I THEN SET THE CUTOFF TO THE SUB AT IN ARC?
> 
> 4. OR I GUESS I COULD DO ALL THESE IN THE "TARGET" SETTING IN ARC AND RECALCULATE?
> 
> As things stand now, particularly given your need for help at the high end, I think you'll likely find the solution without the sub sounds best.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Steve, I believe you can change to/from Full Range in the Targets window without having to re-Measure. However, also do an Auto Detect in there so that ARC can redetermine the cutoffs. Auto Detect causes ARC to redo it's preliminary evaluation of your Measured data. It's how you can reset ARC's values in the Targets window. But if you change Full Range I think ARC will take that into account at that point. You'll know for sure if the new cutoff values are different. You may also have to re-enter your Max EQ Frequency values. Keep in mind that Auto Detect also resets your Music Targets.


If you have no sub, you can lower the cutoff for Full Range speakers if you want to force ARC to use them even lower.


However, if you HAVE a sub, I don't believe you can safely lower the cutoffs for Full Range speakers. I'm not actually sure about that. I don't think you can ever safely change the cutoff ARC picks for the sub itself.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Auto detect first, then change to full?, then re-calculate?


Thanks again Bob your help is great, Anthem is very well served by your expertise. It is in fact, part of the reason for my choice.


quote=Bob Pariseau;17276985]Steve, I believe you can change to/from Full Range in the Targets window without having to re-Measure. However, also do an Auto Detect in there so that ARC can redetermine the cutoffs. Auto Detect causes ARC to redo it's preliminary evaluation of your Measured data. It's how you can reset ARC's values in the Targets window. But if you change Full Range I think ARC will take that into account at that point. You'll know for sure if the new cutoff values are different. You may also have to re-enter your Max EQ Frequency values. Keep in mind that Auto Detect also resets your Music Targets.


If you have no sub, you can lower the cutoff for Full Range speakers if you want to force ARC to use them even lower.


However, if you HAVE a sub, I don't believe you can safely lower the cutoffs for Full Range speakers. I'm not actually sure about that. I don't think you can ever safely change the cutoff ARC picks for the sub itself.

--Bob[/quote]


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Try this: First do an Auto Detect with what you have now. Note the cutoffs ARC picks.


Now change to/from Full Range for whatever speakers.


Finaly, Auto Detect again. If the new cutoffs are different (as I think they will be) then Auto Detect is in fact taking your Full Range changes into account and so you don't have to re-Measure to do that.


Please do report back whether this works!

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

You have a PM,

Nope checking full range does not change the cutoffs. in fact it "unchecks" the full range



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17277092
> 
> 
> Try this: First do an Auto Detect with what you have now. Note the cutoffs ARC picks.
> 
> 
> Now change to/from Full Range for whatever speakers.
> 
> 
> Finaly, Auto Detect again. If the new cutoffs are different (as I think they will be) then Auto Detect is in fact taking your Full Range changes into account and so you don't have to re-Measure to do that.
> 
> 
> Please do report back whether this works!
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17276039
> 
> 
> Montekay: ...In many many ways, you are Bob-like in patience with your explanations
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> David



"Bob-like", That's probably the highest compliment I've ever received! Seriously, if i ran a company in need of a technical support guy I would go after Bob and offer what ever salary it took to get him.


Thanks!


Monte


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We here at "Bob Pariseau" thank you for your kind words!


We think, yes, we think we'll go give ourselves a cookie!

--Bob ("Remember, thou art mortal! Remember, thou art mortal!") P.


----------



## wabbit636

Just got my ARC and sold my Audyssey Pro Sound EQ.


I ran Arc and by the looks of the graphic results, it seems to have done a better job than my audyssey but when I did the listening test I could not hear a difference.


To do the before and after test, do you just go to the source and switch between room eq on & off and leave the set-up menu?? This is what I did but there was not noticable difference.


Am I missing something or doing something wrong??


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Room EQ OFF turns off the room correction processing, but leaves in effect the crossovers and volume trims that ARC Uploaded. It also turns back on certain older EQ settings such as Center EQ and Room Resonance Filter. The point being that Room EQ OFF may not reult in the best non-ARC answer.


Alternatively, if all that's needed is proper setting of crossovers and volume trims, what ARC Uploaded will still be in effect even with Room EQ OFF.


That said, you should be able to hear a difference between ARC and no ARC unless your speakers/room don't need any significant correction.


Post your charts and it should be obvious from comparison of the red Measured and green Calculated curves.

--Bob


----------



## wabbit636

how do I post the results?


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17277514
> 
> 
> Room EQ OFF turns off the room correction processing, but leaves in effect the crossovers and volume trims that ARC Uploaded. It also turns back on certain older EQ settings such as Center EQ and Room Resonance Filter. The point being that Room EQ OFF may not reult in the best non-ARC answer.
> 
> 
> Alternatively, if all that's needed is proper setting of crossovers and volume trims, what ARC Uploaded will still be in effect even with Room EQ OFF.
> 
> 
> That said, you should be able to hear a difference between ARC and no ARC unless your speakers/room don't need any significant correction.
> 
> 
> Post your charts and it should be obvious from comparison of the red Measured and green Calculated curves.
> 
> --Bob



With the Audyssey SEQ, turning it on & off kept the crossovers, and volume trims as well and there was a huge noticable difference. Hope I don't regret selling the Audyssey.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/17277523
> 
> 
> how do I post the results?



Open your ARC results file in ARC's "advanced" mode to see the charts. Check Windows Help for the key combo to Screen Capture Active Window. This puts the image in the clipboard.


From there you can go various ways. What I do is Paste into Windows Paint (bundled with Windows) and Save As using JPEG file format.


You can't get all the charts in one capture so capture the top then scroll down and capture the bottom. If you also capture your Music charts (ARC View menu), then that's 4 files. Then bring up the Targets window and capture that as well.


When entering your post here, use tha Attach Files area below the text type in box to have AVS upload the image files from your computer. They will appear as links in your post. The files are kept on AVS so you don't need to keep them on your computer after posting.


Use the Preview Post button to confirm everything is working as you expect before doing the Submit for your post.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/17277557
> 
> 
> With the Audyssey SEQ, turning it on & off kept the crossovers, and volume trims as well and there was a huge noticable difference. Hope I don't regret selling the Audyssey.



Odds are it is a simple mistake.

--Bob


----------



## wabbit636

here they are....


Thanks


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17277623
> 
> 
> Odds are it is a simple mistake.
> 
> --Bob



I hope it just a simple mistake or I will really regret selling it.....I imagine there is a quick fix


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You didn't post the chart showing your Subwoofer.


------------------------------------


Your speakers are more or less pretty good uncorrected in the mid-range. The excessive bass from the main speakers is handled largely by the crossover roll-off (which stays in place with ARC turned off) and you are currently using the default upper limit of 5KHz for ARC correction so ARC isn't trying to do anything with the nasty problems you've got in treble.


So I can understand that you wouldn't hear much difference between Room EQ ON and OFF.


------------------------------------


In the Targets window, try raising Max EQ Frequency to 20KHz. Accept that change, re-Calculate and re-Upload. You can do that right away.


Meanwhile, check the bass configuration for LF/RF and C. Perhaps there is a bass port you need to close. You have a 15dB swing between 40Hz and 150Hz which, among other things, is forcing ARC to treat your room as having almost no Room Gain. The situation is so bad with C that ARC is using a higher crossover frequency so that the roll off will help tame the hot bass at lower frequencies.


If there isn't a configuration setting, it would be wise to tackle this either by repositioning (try further from the nearest wall/corner) or addition of bass traps on the wall/corners behind LF/RF and C.


I can't see enough of your Sub under the Targets window to tell what it is doing.


Your problems in treble may be due to grills or to speaker pointing. Those too would be good to look at as it is unlikely ARC will be able to correct that entire swing.

--Bob


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17277955
> 
> 
> You didn't post the chart showing your Subwoofer.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Your speakers are more or less pretty good uncorrected in the mid-range. The excessive bass from the main speakers is handled largely by the crossover roll-off (which stays in place with ARC turned off) and you are currently using the default upper limit of 5KHz for ARC correction so ARC isn't trying to do anything with the nasty problems you've got in treble.
> 
> 
> So I can understand that you wouldn't hear much difference between Room EQ ON and OFF.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
> In the Targets window, try raising Max EQ Frequency to 20KHz. Accept that change, re-Calculate and re-Upload. You can do that right away.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, check the bass configuration for LF/RF and C. Perhaps there is a bass port you need to close. You have a 15dB swing between 40Hz and 150Hz which, among other things, is forcing ARC to treat your room as having almost no Room Gain. The situation is so bad with C that ARC is using a higher crossover frequency so that the roll off will help tame the hot bass at lower frequencies.
> 
> 
> If there isn't a configuration setting, it would be wise to tackle this either by repositioning (try further from the nearest wall/corner) or addition of bass traps on the wall/corners behind LF/RF and C.
> 
> 
> I can't see enough of your Sub under the Targets window to tell what it is doing.
> 
> 
> Your problems in treble may be due to grills or to speaker pointing. Those too would be good to look at as it is unlikely ARC will be able to correct that entire swing.
> 
> --Bob




Bob,


Thanks for your help....there would be a lot less people fully enjoying what own Anthems have to offer if it wasn't for your dedication and work on the board!


I will play around with it this weekend (speaker placement, etc) and will include the sub next time.....lol.


I also have the insulation to make my sound panels and just need the fabric then I can build them. I will be treating the whole front (minus the screen) and the reflection on the rear wall and the 1st reflections so it should tame down the fronts with the high peaks in the lower end. I will post before & after charts.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As Steve discovered, changing the Full Range settings in ARC's Targets window and then doing an Auto Detect causes the Full Range settings to revert to what you specified back when you originally did this set of Measurements.


As such, I don't recommend changing any speaker to/from Full Range in the Targets window, because there is apparently no way to make ARC revisit your original Measured data and pick new cutoffs taking into account which speakers you now want to use as Full Range.


Instead, you have to re-Measure -- making the Full Range choices there.


-------------------------------------------------


I think it's important for folks to understand that there's more magic going on in ARC's solution than is visible simply from its frequency response charts. ARC is also doing things like making sure LFE gets handled properly and using the capabilities of speakers involved in bass steering to do better room correction for the set of them.


Time and again we've had reports from folks here that manually changing the cutoffs resulted in charts that LOOKED better but a solution that SOUNDED worse.


So at this point I'd have stick with the recommendations that you not fiddle with cutoffs -- with the sole exception of possibly lowering them for Full Range speaker pairs when you DON'T also have a subwoofer included -- and that you re-Measure if you decide you want to change whether any speaker pair is to be treated as Full Range or not.


I'll check with Nick on Auto Detect vs. changing the Full Range choices.

--Bob


----------



## Larry Lang

I have a Samsung UN55B8500 on preorder and my Anthem D2V with 2.07 shipped last week and I am looking forward to receiving it. I am looking to get a Bluray player and had been considering the Oppo BDP-83 but was wondering if I really need to pay for the upconversion that it provides. If not what would members suggest? I do play some SACD and DVD-Audio and I know there may be other reasons to go with the Oppo but I'd like your opinions. Thank you for your help.

Larry


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Larry, I'd say yes. The Oppo does a lot of things right.


Having the flexibility of letting the player do the de-interlacing and scaling means you can also use some of the convenience features in the player such as the Zoom modes in the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

All:


You might be interested in the conversation I had with Nick and Piero of the present and future capabilities of ARC a few days ago. I posed to Piero and nick answered.


Piero, I have a few feature requests for the ARC system:



1. It'd be nice if Anthem added in ARC(or a separate utility) the ability to see in real-time, the speaker/room frequency response. This would greatly help someone who is trying to optimize speaker placement in their theater for better frequency response by re-positioning nad/or re-pointing their speakers.

1. In the works.


2. While at that, is it possible you also add the ability for ARC to adjust the sub-woofer phase/polarity automatically? I believe my AVM50v2 already has the option of doing this. I have tried to understand sub-woofer phase adjustments but its so far its eluded me. Right now, I've left mine at 0 degrees.Why would one want to have the sub-woofer not in phase-sync with the rest of the speakers anyway?

2. Adjusting phase is in essence super-tweaking and sometimes it makes a difference, sometimes it doesn't. It affects the bass region where response from the main speakers and the sub overlaps. Although ARC doesn't do it the manual procedure is explanation page 26 of the manual:
Advanced Settings - Subwoofer Phase and Polarity:

Certain subwoofer positions can cause bass frequency cancellation. When the front speakers andsubwoofer are out of phase or misaligned, they work against each other resulting in weak and dislocated sounding bass. This can be corrected by adjusting Phase and Polarity.If your subwoofer has these controls, set them to zero/normal before making menu adjustments. The

advantage of adjusting through the setup menu is hearing changes instantly from the listening position. As a general guide, set Polarity to Normal if the subwoofer is near the front speakers and to Inverted if the

subwoofer is near the back of the room. With bass material or the shhhh noise between FM radio stations playing, compare Normal to Inverted and use the setting that provides louder bass.The Phase control provides further alignment - listen to FM shhhh noise and adjust until bass is loudest.

If using multiple subs, see section 3.5 before adjusting phase and polarity in the setup menu.


3. How do we know that the results we hear measure-up with what ARC has originally computed? It would be helpful to compare ARC's original calculated results with the 'new' measured results. It would also be great see a combined or 'effective' frequency response at the listener position(ARC position 1) as this is what the listener uses to judge the quality of their theater system.

3. Have faith baby! Or trust your ears that there's a difference and that it's a big improvement. While ARC was under development there was such a feature, i.e. measure response with EQ turned on, in which case the measured response really does line up with the calculated one. We took this out due to fear of potential tech calls when responses didn't overlap precisely. If before and after measurements are made from the exact same mic positions and height on days with exact same temperature, pressure, and humidity, the responses overlap exactly. When you think about it, there's really no reason they wouldn't.


The above feature request was born out of using the ARC system observing its strengths and weaknesses. Its performance is remarkable but its takes such a long long time to get there. I believe the above will greatly make the ARC user's job much simpler and pleasurable to use.

As for the time it takes to run ARC, the 30 minute average is right in line with most systems, even ones that don't do very much.


Thanks,


David


----------



## jayray

Bob,

A while back you asked if anyone was using 4:2:2 for colour output from their player and through the Anthem video processor. My calibrator was over today and suggested I use 4:2:2 from my oppo and the same out from my D2v. Everything looks good but I haven't had time to get a better look. So if I see anything unusual, I will report back.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17280120
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> A while back you asked if anyone was using 4:2:2 for colour output from their player and through the Anthem video processor. My calibrator was over today and suggested I use 4:2:2 from my oppo and the same out from my D2v. Everything looks good but I haven't had time to get a better look. So if I see anything unusual, I will report back.
> 
> John



The problems I'm seeing are black level differences at 480i vs any other Oppo output resolution, and also between dithered output from the Oppo and non-dithered output. Also compare 4:2:2 black levels vs. 4:4:4 black levels.


You'll need to use a fine chart -- such as the Spears & Munsil Dynamic Range Low chart -- to see the small differences I'm talking about.


Right now I'm using explicit 1080p, YCbCr 4:2:2, 30-bit dithered from the Oppo with a slightly higher Gamma correction in the D2v and that seems to be working very well indeed.

--Bob


----------



## vengazor

Is it better to set my denon5910ci player to outpt sd dvd to a d2v in 480i to let anthem do the scaling or 1080p where the player does the scaling. Or does it not matter as much b/c both have great processors


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17280526
> 
> 
> Is it better to set my denon5910ci player to outpt sd dvd to a d2v in 480i to let anthem do the scaling or 1080p where the player does the scaling. Or does it not matter as much b/c both have great processors



It probably doesn't matter, but of course the thing to do is try it both ways and see which you like better. I don't know enough bout the 5910ci to know if it has any gotchas one way or the other.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*AVM 40 "Test" Firmware V1.47g (1oct09) Now on Password Protected Download Page*


Anthem has updated their password protected download page this afternoon to add "test" firmware V1.47g, labeled (1oct09), for the older AVM 40 processor. There are no release notes specific to this version. Presumably this is a continuation of the porting of the new HDMI code previously released as "test" firmware V1.47f for later production runs of the original AVM 50 and D2 processors.


Other "test" versions remain unchanged.


NOTE: It remains the case that "test" V1.47f should only be tried on AVM 50 or D2 processors where you can visually confirm you have a later production run unit. This is definitely the case if you can see through the top vents that the upper board (the video board) is red in color OR that your power supply does NOT have the big, donut shaped transformer. If your video board is gray or green and you DO have the donut shaped transformer, your unit MAY also be a later production run unit but there is no easy way for you to tell, so play it safe and don't install V1.47f.


I do not yet know if there is any similar restriction for V1.47g and the AVM 40 units.


As always, "test" firmware is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

My new D2v should arrive early next week. I'll keep my fingers crossed for the next one. I love my S6's though.


----------



## obie_fl

Nice sound treatment on the sub Bluemark.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17283613
> 
> 
> Nice sound treatment on the sub Bluemark.



LOL...thanks. Wife has to have some input.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17283515
> 
> 
> My new D2v should arrive early next week. I'll keep my fingers crossed for the next one. I love my S6's though.



Nice looking system bluemark. How do you like the new S6's? Are these the ones with the Beryllium tweeter?


----------



## husker du

Can someone please help me interpret these ARC results. It is my first attempt but I'm wondering if I need to move speakers. I only have the Movie settings at this time. Thanks.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17285423
> 
> 
> Can someone please help me interpret these ARC results. It is my first attempt but I'm wondering if I need to move speakers. I only have the Movie settings at this time. Thanks.



This is the second set of ARC results I have seen in the last couple of days where there is a sudden increase in high frequency levels (above 17KHz or so). I know that this is above the cut off frequncy for our hearing ability, but the response curves do not look normal.


Have Anthem changed something in the latest calibration curves that they are sending out?


Anyone else think it looks unusual?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17285423
> 
> 
> Can someone please help me interpret these ARC results. It is my first attempt but I'm wondering if I need to move speakers. I only have the Movie settings at this time. Thanks.



First of all your basic volume level for the solution is a lot higher than I'd like to see. This is the volume of the flat part of the Target curves in the mid-range frequencies. In your case that's about 90dB and it should be a lot closer to 75dB.


Before doing your next ARC Measurement pass, do this exercise. You will need your trusty, Radio Shack SPL meter -- set to "slow" response and "C" weighting. Take all SPL readings holding the meter pointing straight up at arm's length, at seated ear height, and at ARC mic position #1. Keep the meter tip away from reflective surfaces such as seat backs.


Now go into Setup > Level Calibration and zero out all the lines. Set the test mode to Manual in the first line. Move down to the Test Level line -- the test noise will now be coming from the Left Front speaker. Adjust the Test Level line to produce roughly 75dB SPL. Leave that line at that setting and move down to a subwoofer line. Leave the subwoofer line itself at 0dB and adjust the sub's built-in volume knob to achieve roughly 75dB SPL.


When you do your ARC Measurements, ARC will use the Test Level value to set the volume of its test sweep tones, and by adjusting your sub's internal volume control this way you have also insured it is already roughly in balance with your main speakers.


Ballpark adjustments are fine for the 2 settings above as ARC will determine the precise speaker volume trims and Upload them into Setup -- leaving Test Level unchanged so that you don't have to do this exercise again the next time you Measure for ARC.


------------------------------------------------------


Next, I think your speakers will be a good candidate to tell ARC it is OK to correct higher frequencies. By default, ARC stops correcting at 5KHz. To change this, open your ARC results file in ARC's Advanced mode. Bring up the Targets window. Change Max EQ Frequency for both Movie and Music. Accept that change (which also dismisses the Targets window). Re-Calculate and if you like how things look, re-Upload. Note that Measurements of higher frequencies are inherently difficult, so trust your ears. If the higher setting results in good sounding treble then great. But if you start to hear problems up there, back it off and try again. If a lower setting sounds better then it IS better even if the charts don't look quite as good up there.


Also, when you tell ARC to apply resources up there, it may not do as good a job at the lower frequencies. This will show up as more wobbles in the green Calculated results compared to the black-dashed Target curves. If you see that in the charts, then back off Max EQ Frequency to something a little less than 20KHz. Look for a nice compromise setting that makes the upper frequency correction look good without introducing more residual errors in the low frequencies.


Since you don't have to re-Measure to do any of this, you can try a number of different Max EQ Frequency candidates in almost no time until you get curves that look worth Uploading for a listen.


---------------------------------------------------------------


For completeness, I'll just mention again the guidance on ARC mic placement. The mic should be set to point straight up. It should be set at seated ear height, but not so that the tip is near a reflective surface such as a seat back or wall. It is better to raise the mic tip a few inches or to shift the mic a foot closer to the screen to get it away from a seat back. Mic position #1 should be in the center at your preferred seating distance. Subsequent mic positions must alternate either side of #1. No two mic positions, whether or not sequential, should be closer than 24 inches apart -- I use 30 inches myself. It is good to have some forward/backward in the mic positions as well as side to side. So for example, rather than 5 positions in a straight line, swing the outer two positions closer to the screen to help better sample the listening area.


---------------------------------------------------------------


Now for your speakers:


Your sub looks fine for the lowest frequencies. Do double check that you have disabled any internal crossover it has. For some subs this will be a switch, for others a different input jack. If you can't completely disable its internal crossover, set it to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. (Right now it looks like you might have an 60Hz crossover active inside your sub.) No need to reposition your sub.


The high frequencies for your main speakers look fine -- I think your speaker pointing is probably good.


Your LS/RS look a little weak in bass. Not a big problem but a bit of a surprise since your LR/RR look fine there. Are you using different speakers for LS/RS? Check LS/RS to see if there is a configuration option for improving their bass output -- such as opening a bass port. This is not that big a problem -- you can live with what you have now and your Sub will fill in.


Your big problem is that you seem to have a nasty room cancellation null near 125Hz. This is showing up in RF and in C. In LF the cancellation is a double dip at 80Hz and also at 125Hz. This is giving ARC some serious problems. It's not so much the residual errors (reaching the limit of what ARC will correct) but that it has caused ARC to (1) pick a higher crossover for LF/RF, and (2) makes ARC use a lower Room Gain for the solution.


LF/RF are clearly capable of going lower so this is definitely worth tackling.


Start by trying some repositioning for LF/RF to see how their coupling to the room varies. Even inches matter at these frequencies. If their height is adjustable, try raising them a few inches. Otherwise try shifting them first farther from and then closer to the nearest wall/corner. In terms of pointing, the rule of thumb I like is to swing LF/RF only 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular to the screen towards the center seating location. You will need to re-Measure which takes time, but this is worth the effort. If that doesn't do the trick you may need to look into bass traps on the walls/corners behind them.


For C, try shifting it out a bit from the wall behind it. If its height is adjustable try changing that as well. Again inches matter.


For both LF/RF and C you only need to produce modest improvements in the red Measured curves and ARC will take it from there.


You'll know you've got it for LF/RF when ARC picks a lower "cutoff" value for them -- more like 40Hz or 60Hz than the 115Hz it is using now. For C, an improvement would show as elimination of the residual error either side of 100Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/17285638
> 
> 
> This is the second set of ARC results I have seen in the last couple of days where there is a sudden increase in high frequency levels (above 17KHz or so). I know that this is above the cut off frequncy for our hearing ability, but the response curves do not look normal.
> 
> 
> Have Anthem changed something in the latest calibration curves that they are sending out?
> 
> 
> Anyone else think it looks unusual?



This is not unusual for Measured responses up there. (Note that with the default 5KHz setting for Max EQ Frequency Target, ARC's green Calculated result simply tracks the red Measured result -- no correction applied.)


Typically this is a combination of increased directionality in the output of the speaker and some designed in excess up there to counter that. Speakers don't put out uniform volume at all angles for higher frequencies so that gets countered by designing in a bit of boost up there to help the average output. The speaker's directionality changes as the frequency changes.


This could also be due to a resonance in the hardware up there or simply a result of how the speaker maker wants the speaker to sound.


It could also be due to the fact that Measuring up there is inherently difficult -- varying with things like humidity and temperature in the room.


I'm more worried by dips just below that -- which tend to indicate speaker pointing problems, than any overshoot that might happen right near 20KHz.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17283893
> 
> 
> Nice looking system bluemark. How do you like the new S6's? Are these the ones with the Beryllium tweeter?



Thanks. Yes they do have the Be. I had been using the S2's v2 for my mains with a sub and didn't expect as much of a difference as I'm getting. They are a phenominal speaker. The S2's are now being used as surrounds.


----------



## husker du

Thanks Bob for the interpretation of my ARC results. I will get to trying some of these things and I'll report back. I'm running Paradigm Studios 100s v.5 for fronts, CC690 center, di-pole ADP-590s for surrounds and Studio 20s for rears. I've included a picture of my set-up in case you might spot some issues there. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17287400
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob for the interpretation of my ARC results. I will get to trying some of these things and I'll report back. I'm running Paradigm Studios 100s v.5 for fronts, CC690 center, di-pole ADP-590s for surrounds and Studio 20s for rears. I've included a picture of my set-up in case you might spot some issues there. Thanks again.



You could easily be getting corner reflections in that setup. Some bass traps might be a simple solution.


Or, since you are limited side to side, I'd try shifting all 3 fronts closer to the seating (away from the screen and those corners) a few inches and see how that affects the room null around 100Hz.


Some other folks here might have other suggestions.

--Bob


----------



## aramb

Tonight I had an odd HDMI syncing issue. I have outlined the procedure I went through in detail. I am using v2.07(g) and have had no HDMI issues until today.


I turned on the projector, followed by the AVM50v. I selected the correct source on the AVM50v and then turned on the source (HD DVD). All I saw was a blinking green screen. I switched to my CATV source on the AVM50v and turned on the cable box. I saw content for maybe two seconds followed by a blue box with a message that disappeared to quickly to read completely (something about HD Copy Protection not enabled). Then that went to green blinking screens. If I pressed the Status key on the AVM50v to bring up the menu, I could see the menu. Next I tried the blu ray player. Nothing but blinking green screens. I powered off the AVM and all sources several times with no luck (I did leave the projector on). I removed the HDMI cable between the projector and the AVM and replaced it with a different cable. Same results. I replaced the original cable at the projector end and plugged the other end (that would normally be in the AVM) directly into the cable box. I had a normal picture. I then turned everything off, reconnected it as before, and powered everything up again. This time, everything operates normally.


What the heck is going on?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17289621
> 
> 
> Tonight I had an odd HDMI syncing issue. I have outlined the procedure I went through in detail. I am using v2.07(g) and have had no HDMI issues until today.
> 
> 
> I turned on the projector, followed by the AVM50v. I selected the correct source on the AVM50v and then turned on the source (HD DVD). All I saw was a blinking green screen. I switched to my CATV source on the AVM50v and turned on the cable box. I saw content for maybe two seconds followed by a blue box with a message that disappeared to quickly to read completely (something about HD Copy Protection not enabled). Then that went to green blinking screens. If I pressed the Status key on the AVM50v to bring up the menu, I could see the menu. Next I tried the blu ray player. Nothing but blinking green screens. I powered off the AVM and all sources several times with no luck (I did leave the projector on). I removed the HDMI cable between the projector and the AVM and replaced it with a different cable. Same results. I replaced the original cable at the projector end and plugged the other end (that would normally be in the AVM) directly into the cable box. I had a normal picture. I then turned everything off, reconnected it as before, and powered everything up again. This time, everything operates normally.
> 
> 
> What the heck is going on?



Off hand your projector powered up in an anomalous state for its HDMI which prevented it from responding properly to HDMI HDCP (copy protection) handshakes.


All the cases that worked didn't enforce copy protection. When you power cycled the projector things worked again.


Solid green screens, flashing or continuous, usually mean that HDCP is not getting set up properly and so the Source device is muting its video output.


HDCP is, by design, not a robust protocol. If anything goes wrong it is designed to fail -- so as to protect the interests of the content rights owners -- the studios. All the Source device can do is initiate a retry.

--Bob


----------



## aramb

Bob-- Thanks. That makes perfect sense now that I think about it. I have never had a handshaking issue with the projector in the three years that I have had it, so it never occured to me it could be at that end of the chain.


Aram


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17289621
> 
> 
> Tonight I had an odd HDMI syncing issue. I have outlined the procedure I went through in detail. I am using v2.07(g) and have had no HDMI issues until today.
> 
> 
> I turned on the projector, followed by the AVM50v. I selected the correct source on the AVM50v and then turned on the source (HD DVD). All I saw was a blinking green screen. I switched to my CATV source on the AVM50v and turned on the cable box. I saw content for maybe two seconds followed by a blue box with a message that disappeared to quickly to read completely (something about HD Copy Protection not enabled). Then that went to green blinking screens. If I pressed the Status key on the AVM50v to bring up the menu, I could see the menu. Next I tried the blu ray player. Nothing but blinking green screens. I powered off the AVM and all sources several times with no luck (I did leave the projector on). I removed the HDMI cable between the projector and the AVM and replaced it with a different cable. Same results. I replaced the original cable at the projector end and plugged the other end (that would normally be in the AVM) directly into the cable box. I had a normal picture. I then turned everything off, reconnected it as before, and powered everything up again. This time, everything operates normally.
> 
> 
> What the heck is going on?



You own an Anthem Pre/Pro!







Actually, I occassionally have a similar issue with mine, but simply turning it off and back on always remedied the issue. I just summed it up to the processor not locking on the signal, but someone else, like Bob, would have to explain the technical aspect of whats happening. Can be frustrating, but I don't believe it is a big issue. It never was with mine anyway.


----------



## aramb

Well, when it works, the AVM50v is awesome. But HDMI is for the birds. I am half tempted to rip it all out and go back to component cables!


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17289766
> 
> 
> Well, when it works, the AVM50v is awesome. But HDMI is for the birds. I am half tempted to rip it all out and go back to component cables!



Agree 100%, I have been getting screeching out of my speakers when I switch sources through the Anthem for over a year. It occurs only on my HDMI sources and appears to be on the audio portion of the HDMI only. If I don't mute before switching sources, it is deafening. I've connected what I can using optical or digital coax. I can leave the HDMI in to carry the video, but I've switched what I can to other digital audio cables to avoid the noise.


----------



## aramb

My problems, by contrast, have all been mostly video-sync related. I have had no popping problems since installing 2.07g.


----------



## vengazor

Bob can you take a look at my ARC results please?


Thanks,

Rich

 

Arc2.doc 164k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17291006
> 
> 
> Bob can you take a look at my ARC results please?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Rich



There's a 3rd page in that file which is blank. Apparently the Targets window didn't get pasted in properly.


You've got a pretty severe room swing in LF/RF -- more than ARC can correct. It's about 17dB between 70Hz and 150Hz. Contrast with what's going on in Center and you can see that if you can tone that done even just a modest amount, ARC will be able to provide full correction. Try repositioning LF/RF as I described in the post yesterday. If that doesn't work you'll need to consider some bass traps.


You should probably try raising Max EQ Frequency up to 20KHz. Now ARC is doing some significant correction in bass (particularly with the problem for LF/RF) so check to make sure you aren't getting more wobbles in the results when you tell ARC to divert resources to higher frequencies like that. Check for example that ARC can still provide full correction near 150Hz for Center. If you see problems, back off Max EQ Frequency a bit and look for a nice compromise setting. Your high frequencies are already pretty good on their own (no signs of speaker pointing problems), so you could easily back off Max EQ Frequency and still likely get good results up there.


Check your Sub to make sure you have disabled any internal crossover it might have. It looks like an 80Hz crossover may still be active in it. Your Sub is good down to about 30Hz, which is not bad for a home theater Sub, but there are Subs that will go an octave deeper. No rush to fix that, but something to keep in mind the next time you look to upgrade speakers.


The basic volume level of this solution is about 81dB -- a little higher than I'd like to see but not really a problem. Anyway, it is still probably a good idea to do that exercise I described yesterday to set Test Level in Setup > Level Calibration and to set the volume knob on your Sub.


What you have now should sound quite good already, but fixing the LF/RF issue is definitely something you should tackle.

--Bob


----------



## wabbit636

Bob,


I ran ARC again and with the results I got I definately hear the results! I was really disappointed in not hearing the results and having sold my Audyssey Pro EQ after running ARC for the list time.


What make a big difference is that I used REW to calibrate my sub's parabolic EQ which tamed the huge 17db peak at 33hz and it smoothed it out a lot. I played with the positioning of my fronts from the wall and ended up leaving them at 19 inches away as it gave me the best smoothest response. Then I ran ARC and fixing my sub response made a big difference as now my L&R crossovers and sub are different. I will be building my accoustic panels soon and that will really help with my fronts as they still have huge peaks at 30hz which ARC can't deal with so it adds a crossover to my full range speakers. It will be very handy to have ARC let you do individual positions and see the results to allow one to tweak and play with sub parabolic eqs, speaker positioning, ect. Right now REW works well for this but all in one solution is better!


I am now glad that I sold the Audyssey and bought ARC as it left me with about $1400 in my pocket that went to a CDP upgrade!


In terms of performance, I really don't see a difference so they both are excellent! I have a personal preference for the ARC as now I can calibrate separately for music as my sweet spot for music is a chair in from of my HT chairs so its not the same sitting position.


For the music calibration I did the 5 all at the same spot since I am the only person that sits and listens to music. Not sure if it would be better to do 5 in the general area of my listening area.


Also, what I like with Arc is it does it all for you and with the Audyssey I had to manually add the crossovers, trims, distances into the D2. The ARC allows you to make slight changes and upload without pulling out the mic and the Audyssey you have to pull out everything and many wires and stuff to redo it. ARC is quicker to set-up and use.


One thing I am disappointed with is the useless straight mic stand! Good thing I haven't shipped the Audyssey as I used the Audyssey stand to better get the mic newar my listening position instead of in fron t of the chair which is about 2.5 feet from my ears!


----------



## wabbit636

Bob,


Is the room resonance filter post ARC meaning it only applies it after the ARC solution? If so, I could use REW to test the response and apply the room resonance filter to help smooth out my sub peak in the 33HZ range.


----------



## bluemark81

I normally listen to music through 2 ch stereo, however, I had someone here interested in purchasing my AVM50 and I was demonstrating how you can scroll through the various surround modes. In doing so, none of my surround speakers came on, not even 6 ch stereo. All that would play are my mains. When I play a blu-ray, the surrounds are on and if I test the speakers through speaker calibration, they all work.


My CD player (Bel Canto CD1) is hooked up though both XLR and coax digital. I've tried both and got the same either way.


I also tried my Oppo blu-ray playing a CD and I can cycle through the various modes no problem.


Am I missing something here?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

wabbit636,

I agree on the stand. For about $30 shipped you can get a nice boom-arm mic stand from, say B&H. Just move the ARC mic clip to the end of the boom arm. Some folks just get the boom arm alone and attach it to the top of the Anthem provided stand, but that's about the same cost. Search this thread for boom or for B&H and you'll find a recommended stand shown.

*You must NOT do ARC Measurements by leaving the mic at the same location for all 5 runs.* ARC needs to distinguish between the real response of the speakers and what is being produced by room characteristics. It can do this because the room characteristics change as you move the mic around but of course the speaker response does not (excluding directionality at the high frequency end). Even if you are only going to use just one seat, spread the mic positions around with proper mic spacing. Try a box configuration for example: #1 at the seat and the other 4 at the corners.


4..................5


..........1


2..................3


--Bob


----------



## wabbit636

OT-


Anyone going to the Rocky Mountain Audio Fest in Denver this weekend?? I will be going tomorrow. In the last 2 months I upgraded all my HT speakers from Monitor Audio Silvers to PBN Montana EPS-2, SPC-2, Mini Monitors, new Shanling cd3000 MOD 2 (should get it next week) from Parts ConneXtion (Chris Johnson Sonic Frontiers ex founder and ex president before paraidgm bought it) and now shopping for some amps (monos for fronts & 3 channel for center & surrounds) to replace my Anthem MCA 50 which is good but a weak link in my system imo. At RMAF I should be able to find what I want & need to replace it. I am really interested in hearing the Wyred4sound class d amps which have received amazing reviews and they will be there at RMAF.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17291435
> 
> 
> I normally listen to music through 2 ch stereo, however, I had someone here interested in purchasing my AVM50 and I was demonstrating how you can scroll through the various surround modes. In doing so, none of my surround speakers came on, not even 6 ch stereo. All that would play are my mains. When I play a blu-ray, the surrounds are on and if I test the speakers through speaker calibration, they all work.
> 
> 
> My CD player (Bel Canto CD1) is hooked up though both XLR and coax digital. I've tried both and got the same either way.
> 
> 
> I also tried my Oppo blu-ray playing a CD and I can cycle through the various modes no problem.
> 
> 
> Am I missing something here?



Were you using a Music speaker configuration that excluded the surrounds?


I'm not sure if you were saying the surround modes weren't available (didn't show on screen when you tried to select them) or that they WERE available but didn't seem to take effect.


The modes that are available depend on the current audio input format, how many speakers you have configured, and whether or not you have THX post processing turned on.


Another way you can have a problem like this is if you are using triggers to turn on your amps and you have a separate stereo amp and 5-channel amp and your trigger table is not set to turn on the 5 channel amp when this particular Source is selected.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/17291429
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Is the room resonance filter post ARC meaning it only applies it after the ARC solution? If so, I could use REW to test the response and apply the room resonance filter to help smooth out my sub peak in the 33HZ range.



The Room Resonance filter is disabled both during ARC Measurement and in normal use for any Source where Room EQ = ON.


Center EQ, THX Ultra 2 Sub, Boundary Gain Compensation, and LFE Bypass are other settings that are also ignored/disabled when ARC is in use.


See Section 3.15 in the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17291472
> 
> 
> wabbit636,
> 
> I agree on the stand. For about $30 shipped you can get a nice boom-arm mic stand from, say B&H. Just move the ARC mic clip to the end of the boom arm. Some folks just get the boom arm alone and attach it to the top of the Anthem provided stand, but that's about the same cost. Search this thread for boom or for B&H and you'll find a recommended stand shown.
> 
> *You must NOT do ARC Measurements by leaving the mic at the same location for all 5 runs.* ARC needs to distinguish between the real response of the speakers and what is being produced by room characteristics. It can do this because the room characteristics change as you move the mic around but of course the speaker response does not (excluding directionality at the high frequency end). Even if you are only going to use just one seat, spread the mic positions around with proper mic spacing. Try a box configuration for example: #1 at the seat and the other 4 at the corners.
> 
> 
> 4..................5
> 
> 
> ..........1
> 
> 
> 2..................3
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks...I will give that a try and will buy the stand. Right now I am listening to music and everytime I sit down to listen to a few CDs I am always amazed at the sound quality & 3-dimesional staging of my system and ARC now gives it the finishing touches! I have spent a lot of time & $$$ on tweaks, equipment and proper set-up and now time to enjoy.......just need new amps!


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17291493
> 
> 
> Were you using a Music speaker configuration that excluded the surrounds?
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if you were saying the surround modes weren't available (didn't show on screen when you tried to select them) or that they WERE available but didn't seem to take effect.
> 
> 
> The modes that are available depend on the current audio input format, how many speakers you have configured, and whether or not you have THX post processing turned on.
> 
> 
> Another way you can have a problem like this is if you are using triggers to turn on your amps and you have a separate stereo amp and 5-channel amp and your trigger table is not set to turn on the 5 channel amp when this particular Source is selected.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Duh! Once again, you nailed it. I have my music configuration set for 2 ch only. That explains why my mains appear to change according to the mode, but no other channels come on. I changed that when I had ARC installed because I just don't listen to multi channnel redbook CD's.


Thanks again.


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17291472
> 
> 
> wabbit636,
> 
> I agree on the stand. For about $30 shipped you can get a nice boom-arm mic stand from, say B&H. Just move the ARC mic clip to the end of the boom arm. Some folks just get the boom arm alone and attach it to the top of the Anthem provided stand, but that's about the same cost. Search this thread for boom or for B&H and you'll find a recommended stand shown.
> 
> *You must NOT do ARC Measurements by leaving the mic at the same location for all 5 runs.* ARC needs to distinguish between the real response of the speakers and what is being produced by room characteristics. It can do this because the room characteristics change as you move the mic around but of course the speaker response does not (excluding directionality at the high frequency end). Even if you are only going to use just one seat, spread the mic positions around with proper mic spacing. Try a box configuration for example: #1 at the seat and the other 4 at the corners.
> 
> 
> 4..................5
> 
> 
> ..........1
> 
> 
> 2..................3
> 
> 
> --Bob




Bob,


Thanks....just placed an order for the mic stand. I got it for 26.08 shipped at Amazon. B&H price was $29.99 plus about $8 for shipping.


Cheers


----------



## vengazor

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
There's a 3rd page in that file which is blank. Apparently the Targets window didn't get pasted in properly.


You've got a pretty severe room swing in LF/RF -- more than ARC can correct. It's about 17dB between 70Hz and 150Hz. Contrast with what's going on in Center and you can see that if you can tone that done even just a modest amount, ARC will be able to provide full correction. Try repositioning LF/RF as I described in the post yesterday. If that doesn't work you'll need to consider some bass traps.


You should probably try raising Max EQ Frequency up to 20KHz. Now ARC is doing some significant correction in bass (particularly with the problem for LF/RF) so check to make sure you aren't getting more wobbles in the results when you tell ARC to divert resources to higher frequencies like that. Check for example that ARC can still provide full correction near 150Hz for Center. If you see problems, back off Max EQ Frequency a bit and look for a nice compromise setting. Your high frequencies are already pretty good on their own (no signs of speaker pointing problems), so you could easily back off Max EQ Frequency and still likely get good results up there.


Check your Sub to make sure you have disabled any internal crossover it might have. It looks like an 80Hz crossover may still be active in it. Your Sub is good down to about 30Hz, which is not bad for a home theater Sub, but there are Subs that will go an octave deeper. No rush to fix that, but something to keep in mind the next time you look to upgrade speakers.


The basic volume level of this solution is about 81dB -- a little higher than I'd like to see but not really a problem. Anyway, it is still probably a good idea to do that exercise I described yesterday to set Test Level in Setup > Level Calibration and to set the volume knob on your Sub.


What you have now should sound quite good already, but fixing the LF/RF issue is definitely something you should tackle.

--Bob
I went into advanced and changed the high freq to 20k Hz. Attached is the correct document with the Targets page you requested.


I performed the level calibration and had every speaker at 75 db prior to running arc. Do you recommend that I move the RF or LF further from the wall? I can't exactly tell what the ARC dip/peak at that 150hz frequency means for the two front speakers? My setup is below and you can see that there is a door opening to the left of the front L speaker and to the Right of the FR speaker is a dvd tower that comes out from the wall also.











I will reposition the speakers and run ARC again tonight after I hear your responses


Thanks, you are the man for all your help here.

 

Arc2.doc 164k . file


----------



## Picasso Moon

Bob,


After running ARC if one goes in to the speaker level settings and double checks the levels with a RS SPL should levels be relatively equal at the main listening position? The reason I ask is my new speakers arrived so now my L-C-R speakers are ~4 dB less efficient than my surrounds. I followed the std. procedure of setting the test level @ 75 dB to my LF speaker then ran ARC. After uploading the results I went into the levels menu to check the results and find the levels of my surrounds about 4 dB higher than my L-C-R. Is this normal? In the past the levels of all my speaker levels were always pretty close when checking them manually after running ARC but my speakers were all about the same efficiency at that time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Vengazor,

If you already did the setting of Test Level and the volume knob in your sub, there's no need to do it again.


I'd probably try shifting LF/RF a few inches further from the back wall. Also toe them in a bit -- swing them about 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular to the screen towards the center seating location.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/17291488
> 
> 
> I am really interested in hearing the Wyred4sound class d amps which have received amazing reviews and they will be there at RMAF.



I have also been interested in these amps. I have Rotel Class D multichannel amp and I think it is a phenomenal match with the Anthem D2 and B&W speakers. I'm a definite Class D fan. Interested to hear if you like them.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/17292333
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> After running ARC if one goes in to the speaker level settings and double checks the levels with a RS SPL should levels be relatively equal at the main listening position? The reason I ask is my new speakers arrived so now my L-C-R speakers are ~4 dB less efficient than my surrounds. I followed the std. procedure of setting the test level @ 75 dB to my LF speaker then ran ARC. After uploading the results I went into the levels menu to check the results and find the levels of my surrounds about 4 dB higher than my L-C-R. Is this normal? In the past the levels of all my speaker levels were always pretty close when checking them manually after running ARC but my speakers were all about the same efficiency at that time.



ARC uses a wider frequency range to pick the level than is represented in the test tones, and the effective level is also a function of how the Room Correction parameters are applied. So it's not unusual to find a small difference like this. Does it sound OK in normal listening?

--Bob


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17292380
> 
> 
> ARC uses a wider frequency range to pick the level than is represented in the test tones, and the effective level is also a function of how the Room Correction parameters are applied. So it's not unusual to find a small difference like this. Does it sound OK in normal listening?
> 
> --Bob



I really haven't had a chance to really sit down and do any serious listening yet. What listening I have done was with material with little or no surround content. I will do some testing this weekend and see how it sounds.


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Odds are the levels set by ARC are correct. It is capable of much more accurate level setting than you can do with the test tones and the SPL meter -- mainly due to the limited frequency range in the test tones and the way the SPL meter works to average things.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

New Left, Center, Right speakers. What do you think, Bob?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17292820
> 
> 
> New Left, Center, Right speakers. What do you think, Bob?



Folks, please remember to post your Targets window as well if you are seeking advice.


------------------------------


Did you set LS/RS and C to Full Range or did ARC just decide to use them that way?


Your Center has a broad area of weakness in low mid-range that ARC has mostly corrected. The residual error is not big, but it is over a wide enough region that I'd go after it. So I need to know how you set things up -- i.e., your Targets -- and whether you made any manual changes in them.


The roughness in RS and in C suggests you might need to back off Max EQ Frequency a bit too, but again, I need to find out what you've told ARC to try to do.

--Bob


----------



## Picasso Moon

Here are the results from the latest run with the new L-C-R speakers. I played around with setting the max EQ to 20 kHz but things started to get choppy down lower so I just put it back at 5 kHz. At my age I'd be doing good to get to 10 kHz so I don't think I'll be missing much with those dips at 15 kHz.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/17293201
> 
> 
> Here are the results from the latest run with the new L-C-R speakers. I played around with setting the max EQ to 20 kHz but things started to get choppy down lower so I just put it back at 5 kHz. At my age I'd be doing good to get to 10 kHz so I don't think I'll be missing much with those dips at 15 kHz.



NOW your cookin'! This should sound quite good.


Keep in mind you can play around with different Max EQ Frequency choices in almost no time at all. I suggest you look for a compromise setting -- perhaps 12KHz or 15KHz.


ARC had to roll off your sub a bit too much at 20Hz to get rid of the peaks near there. You don't really need to change anything -- the residual error is small -- but if you find you are going to measure again anyway, try shifting the sub a few inches closer to the nearest wall/corner to get a little more Boundary Gain at 20Hz and see if that results in a cleaner solution.

--Bob


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17293289
> 
> 
> NOW your cookin'! This should sound quite good.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind you can play around with different Max EQ Frequency choices in almost no time at all. I suggest you look for a compromise setting -- perhaps 12KHz or 15KHz.
> 
> 
> ARC had to roll off your sub a bit too much at 20Hz to get rid of the peaks near there. You don't really need to change anything -- the residual error is small -- but if you find you are going to measure again anyway, try shifting the sub a few inches closer to the nearest wall/corner to get a little more Boundary Gain at 20Hz and see if that results in a cleaner solution.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I'll probably play around a bit with the max EQ freq. I agree there is probably a better compromise somewhere between 5-20 kHz.

As you say it only takes a few minutes.


As for the sub roll-off below 20 Hz. It is just something I will have to live with for the moment as I have dual SubMersives from Mark Seaton and they are shoehorned in to my living room HT so I don't really have any room to move them. I may a some point look into a sub EQ that I could use to flatten things out a bit before ARC and do a better job of balancing the two units.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Another thing you could play with would be to push the Room Gain up or down a little bit (perhaps up to 0.5dB either way) to see if that changes ARC's solution enough so that it isn't missing with the Sub at 20Hz. Small Room Gain changes like that won't be noticeable in the overall audio so long as the resulting solution is clean for all speakers. This is another experiment you can do in no time at all. Leave the "Force" box checked so that ARC actually applies your new value.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/17293201
> 
> 
> Here are the results from the latest run with the new L-C-R speakers. I played around with setting the max EQ to 20 kHz but things started to get choppy down lower so I just put it back at 5 kHz. At my age I'd be doing good to get to 10 kHz so I don't think I'll be missing much with those dips at 15 kHz.



Your center speaker seems to have a weakness in the midrange 1k-4k, although arc has compensated for it you should check if you have placed it too low then it could be tilted upward. Most of dialog in film are on the center speaker.


And you are right most of the adult above 40 do not hear above 16k and it is not a gentle slope. You could hear something at 15k and nothing at all at 16k.


----------



## dweltman

Sorry, Bob, here you go. I did try correcting up to 20, and I do have 5 full range speakers.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17292956
> 
> 
> Folks, please remember to post your Targets window as well if you are seeking advice.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Did you set LS/RS and C to Full Range or did ARC just decide to use them that way?
> 
> 
> Your Center has a broad area of weakness in low mid-range that ARC has mostly corrected. The residual error is not big, but it is over a wide enough region that I'd go after it. So I need to know how you set things up -- i.e., your Targets -- and whether you made any manual changes in them.
> 
> 
> The roughness in RS and in C suggests you might need to back off Max EQ Frequency a bit too, but again, I need to find out what you've told ARC to try to do.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17294116
> 
> 
> Sorry, Bob, here you go. I did try correcting up to 20, and I do have 5 full range speakers.



I don't think your LS/RS are really quite up to being Full Range. If you ran them normally ARC would probably pick about a 60Hz crossover for them (steering bass to LF/RF).


Your real problem is Center and in particular that peak at 60Hz -- a 16dB swing between there and 90Hz. You can see that ARC has biased the volume trim for Center down to tame that -- meaning it has to boost from end to end to correct the other frequencies. That's not good.


This looks like a pretty classic Room Resonance for Center -- you've got some modest 50Hz stuff showing in the other speakers as well which would support that analysis. You can probably tackle this by repositioning Center. Move it away from the wall behind it. If it is on a shelf or close to the floor raise it a bit. Even inches matter at these frequencies. If you can't reduce that 60Hz peak this way you'll need to try some bass traps.


Right now if you set Center to be limited range ARC is likely to give it a high crossover so that the crossover roll-off can help tame that 60Hz peak. And that's not good. But if you can tame that yourself by repositioning, I think you will likely do best by NOT running Center Full Range. Let it steer the lowest bass to LF/RF. I suspect you'll end up with a Center crossover near 40Hz. It's hard to say for sure until we see what the Measured curve for Center looks like after you tame that 60Hz peak.

--Bob


----------



## husker du

Hi Bob:


I took your advice and procured a dB meter and set the test and sub for 75dB. I also moved the center and mains away from the wall and corners. I set the max eq for 20kHZ. The null is still there but less severe I believe. Also, the cut-offs are better. What do you think. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17295672
> 
> 
> Hi Bob:
> 
> 
> I took your advice and procured a dB meter and set the test and sub for 75dB. I also moved the center and mains away from the wall and corners. I set the max eq for 20kHZ. The null is still there but less severe I believe. Also, the cut-offs are better. What do you think. Thanks.



Much better! The residual error at 100Hz in RF is getting small enough that you can probably ignore it if you want. If you'd like to tackle it, some bass traps in the corners behind LF/RF would probably do the trick. You only need a small amount of Measured improvement to put things in a position for ARC to provide complete correction. A change here will require re-Measurement.


You have a little more wobbling in the Center results (e.g., around 300Hz) than is ideal. I suspect you can fix that by backing off Max EQ Frequency a bit. Start by re-Calculating with it set to 5KHz just to be sure that fixes the problem. Then keep splitting the difference until you find the point where those wobbles appear. You may find you can get clean results at, say 18KHz or 17KHz and still get essentially all of the high frequency correction. No need to re-Measure to do this.


Your sub still looks like its built in crossover has not been bypassed. I'd like to see that fixed because LS/RS are weak in bass so I'd like to see the sub going higher to help cover for them. In some subs that will be a switch. In others it will be a separate input jack. If you can't completely bypass/disable the sub's built in crossover, then crank it up to the highest possible frequency setting to get it out of the way as much as possible. A change here will require re-Measurement.


You room is pretty flat. ARC found around 1.7dB of Room Gain. You might like the result of pushing that up just a bit -- say to 2.5dB. (Most movie mixers assume home theaters will have a bit more Room Gain.) But additional Room Gain will also show up as more error in that dip at 100Hz. So keep an eye on that unless you go the extra step to cure that with bass traps for example.


If you set up a separate Music configuration, you'll probably like it better leaving Room Gain where ARC found it. Room Gain adjustments -- just like Max EQ Frequency -- can be done without needing to re-Measure.


You are getting into the fine refinements now. What you have right now should sound very good indeed.


----------------------------------------------------


ETA: Remember to re-check your manual settings for speaker distance (Setup > Listener Position) since you moved some speakers. You can adjust these without having to re-Measure. Also re-check your subwoofer Polarity/Phase setting (Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie and Music -- or use the controls built into the sub itself). Since you only have one subwoofer you can also adjust these without having to re-Measure. If using the controls built into the sub, be careful not to accidentally move its volume knob setting.


And of course once you've got things set up, be sure to Save User and Installer Settings to make sure you don't accidentally undo things by restoring from these memories at some later time.

--Bob


----------



## husker du

Thanks Bob. You're right about the sub, I did discover the by-pass after I ran ARC. On the Paradigm Sub 15s the by-pass is simply at the extreme end of the frequency knob so I missed it.


----------



## studlygoorite

Well I have everything set up, Paradigm S8s, C5, 15" Servo, 4 surrounds, 106" screen, and my new D2v. Sounds great but was told I needed to run ARC in order to get optimum sound. ARC is set up correctly I would assume but as I try to run ARC I get an error message " Error measurement was not able to aquire a proper responce (code 0x03)", this box pops up after the 1st Front Left Speaker test, I can hear the sweep but maybe there is a problem with my mic? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17295741
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. You're right about the sub, I did discover the by-pass after I ran ARC. On the Paradigm Sub 15s the by-pass is simply at the extreme end of the frequency knob so I missed it.



I just edited in a few more comments to my post, so give it another read.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17295770
> 
> 
> Well I have everything set up, Paradigm S8s, C5, 15" Servo, 4 surrounds, 106" screen, and my new D2v. Sounds great but was told I needed to run ARC in order to get optimum sound. ARC is set up correctly I would assume but as I try to run ARC I get an error message " Error measurement was not able to aquire a proper responce (code 0x03)", this box pops up after the 1st Front Left Speaker test, I can hear the sweep but maybe there is a problem with my mic? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. John



It may simply be that the test tone volume is not loud enough for ARC to get a good reading.


Do the exercise of setting Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and also of setting the volume knob of your subwoofer to both yield 75dB SPL. I describe this in detail in a post here just two days ago.


If that doesn't fix it, there may be a problem with your installation of the ARC application. You will need to have Windows XP or Vista running on your computer -- not Windows 7. There have also been a few cases of problems reported when folks are running a software "firewall" on their Windows computer.

--Bob


----------



## vengazor

Bob, i moved the speakers out a few inches and angled towards the center, here are the two runs, don't look dramatically different, but its getting better. Any suggestions on how to fix that dip between 200 and 300 Hz would be greatly appreciated for my fronts. Its odd that my center performance looks so good comparatively, when its about 8 inches closer to the wall than my fronts.


thanks again,

Rich


Arc 2 is the original

Arc 3 is the one after I moved the front L/R

 

Arc2.doc 164k . file

 

ARC3.doc 251.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17295827
> 
> 
> Bob, i moved the speakers out a few inches and angled towards the center, here are the two runs, don't look dramatically different, but its getting better. Any suggestions on how to fix that dip between 200 and 300 Hz would be greatly appreciated for my fronts. Its odd that my center performance looks so good comparatively, when its about 8 inches closer to the wall than my fronts.
> 
> 
> thanks again,
> 
> Rich
> 
> 
> Arc 2 is the original
> 
> Arc 3 is the one after I moved the front L/R



That amount of shifting isn't doing it for you. Given the physical limitations on speaker placement in your setup you may have no choice but to try bass traps. Start with the corners behind LF/RF.


You are dealing with geometry here -- how the wavelengths of the audio line up with the dimensions of the room (including ceiling height) and where the speakers are positioned to excite those room responses. Bass traps kill off some of the reflections. Some rooms need elaborate "room treatment" -- bass traps on side walls at primary reflection points and even on the ceiling. But in your case I think the problem starts with the fact that you've got LF/RF stuck near corners. So traps behind them in those corners may be all you need.


ETA: I'm assuming there is no response configuration setting available in those speakers themselves. A bass port that can be closed or some such.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17256776
> 
> 
> Don't give up.
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call and discuss what you've done and what happened so that they can compare against the results they are getting in their own testing, and from other users, and see what can be done.
> 
> 
> Green flashes mean the Source device has decided it needs to mute the video. Typically this happens because it has not managed to get the copy protection stuff to set up all the way to the display.
> 
> 
> There are things you can do to simplify the handshake so that the HDMI code in the Source has a better chance of making it work without so many retries. For example, don't use Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock with that Source. Don't use Setup > Source Setup > Auto Dig with that Source. And do go into Setup > Video Output and set an explicit video output resolution and an explicit video output data format instead of using the Auto settings. For data format, YCbCr 4:4:4 is the default choice for HDMI to HDMI connections. (If your display wants RGB, use Studio RGB as D2 output.)
> 
> 
> Depending on your display there may be some settings you can make in the display that will simplify things as well.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The HDMI protocol has some built-in delays to give devices time to respond. That means the minimum handshake time is about 2 seconds. If retries are needed you multiply that by the number of retries. Whether the video flashes or goes green or just goes to black during this depends on how the HDMI is programmed in the Source device.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> There are two types of signals on the HDMI cable: Low and high bandwidth. The high bandwidth signal carries the video and the embedded audio. The low bandwidth signal is used for all the control stuff such as HDCP and setup handshakes. It is possible for an HDMI cable to work just fine for audio and video and still screw up the low bandwidth signals.
> 
> 
> That means, if you are having persistent handshake problems, even though audio and video eventually comes out right, it is wise to consider upgrading your HDMI cables. Since the HDMI stuff is end to end -- particularly for the low bandwidth part -- the problem cable can be on the DISPLAY side of the Anthem even if your only problem is with HDMI from one Source device. That particular Source may be less forgiving of signal degradation.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Since "test" V1.47f has not been made "official" yet, I presume they are still working on it. To register YOUR particular issues, you need to get in touch with them and take the time to try things for them so they can eliminate the usual suspects here and see if your situation really is different from what they are finding in other testing.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,


I had all the items you mentioned set that way with the exception of "Auto Digital" for the audio on the Tivo Series 3. When I changed that the problems minimized. So 1.47f is running OK with the exception of a 4-5db increase in the overall audio level over 1.33.


With the announcement of the Moome 1.3 HDMI card V2, with 4:4:4 and 4:4:2 YCbCR and deep color support, for my G90, and after reviewing many of the D2v posts; in a moment of weakness I ordered the Moome card and then a D2v from my dealer.

I'm not wealthy enough to be deemed eccentric, so I just must be nuts.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Impulse buying and a total lack of sales resistance are a prerequiste for this, umm, hobby. Enjoy your new toys!

--Bob


----------



## dherrick

Bob, - Help, I am trying to upgrade the firmware of my AVM50 to ver 1.33 from 1.31 and it consistently fails. If you remember, I had lost my onscreen display of the setup menu and I was upgrading at both yours and Piero's at Anthem's suggestion to attempt to get it restored.


It will program the EPROM fine and then it attempts to program the OKI Boot loader. After apparently programming the boot loader when it attempts to verify, I get the following message


"Cannot connect to new OKI boot loader in external FLASH".


I tried to reinstall v1.31 and after programming the EPROM it comes back that it cannot even locate the OKI boot loader.


Any advice?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/17296863
> 
> 
> Bob, - Help, I am trying to upgrade the firmware of my AVM50 to ver 1.33 from 1.31 and it consistently fails. If you remember, I had lost my onscreen display of the setup menu and I was upgrading at both yours and Piero's at Anthem's suggestion to attempt to get it restored.
> 
> 
> It will program the EPROM fine and then it attempts to program the OKI Boot loader. After apparently programming the boot loader when it attempts to verify, I get the following message
> 
> 
> "Cannot connect to new OKI boot loader in external FLASH".
> 
> 
> I tried to reinstall v1.31 and after programming the EPROM it comes back that it cannot even locate the OKI boot loader.
> 
> 
> Any advice?



Don't Panic!


You will need to get the "Flash Eraser" utility from Anthem's password protected download page. Be sure to get the version that's correct for your model.


Flash Eraser is a Windows PC utility that connects to the unit over the serial cable and resets the programmable parts in the unit so that they will take a new firmware install.


If you don't already have access to Anthem's password protected download page, Anthem tech support will be able to give you the info tomorrow morning.


The problem programming the OKI chip may even be related to your issue with the Setup menu, so Flash Eraser is the next logical step to fix both issues.


After running Flash Eraser you will need to do the firmware install again.

--Bob


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17296976
> 
> 
> Don't Panic!
> 
> 
> You will need to get the "Flash Eraser" utility from Anthem's password protected download page. Be sure to get the version that's correct for your model.
> 
> 
> Flash Eraser is a Windows PC utility that connects to the unit over the serial cable and resets the programmable parts in the unit so that they will take a new firmware install.
> 
> 
> If you don't already have access to Anthem's password protected download page, Anthem tech support will be able to give you the info tomorrow morning.
> 
> 
> The problem programming the OKI chip may even be related to your issue with the Setup menu, so Flash Eraser is the next logical step to fix both issues.
> 
> 
> After running Flash Eraser you will need to do the firmware install again.
> 
> --Bob



Will the flash eraser also erase all of my settings that I have stored under User Settings? I still have the unit connected to the computer. Will the unit function in this state if I reconnect everything, or is it pretty much locked up until I get this resolved?


BTW it does seem to program the OKI internal flash, it fails when it tries to access the boot loader in external FLASH.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm sorry, I don't know the answers to either of those questions.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17295803
> 
> 
> It may simply be that the test tone volume is not loud enough for ARC to get a good reading.
> 
> 
> Do the exercise of setting Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and also of setting the volume knob of your subwoofer to both yield 75dB SPL. I describe this in detail in a post here just two days ago.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't fix it, there may be a problem with your installation of the ARC application. You will need to have Windows XP or Vista running on your computer -- not Windows 7. There have also been a few cases of problems reported when folks are running a software "firewall" on their Windows computer.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


Your first suggestion nailed it! Increased the test volume to -12dB and am now ARC'ing like Noah, thanks! Used 5 positions around my centrally located chair, about 3 feet apart.


I'll attach my first results.


I also have a severe dip in amplitude as another poster did at 10 kHz. Not sure why; phase is correct, nothing is blocking a direct path from any tweeter. From the first post-ARC listen, the sound is noticeably more neutral, directionality increased, tonal colouration reduced! Now to rediscover my collection and read of more experiences throughout this forum...


Any suggestions toward improving upon the calculated results appreciated.


Thanks again,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17297210
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Your first suggestion nailed it! Increased the test volume to -12dB and am now ARC'ing like Noah, thanks! Used 5 positions around my centrally located chair, about 3 feet apart.
> 
> 
> I'll attach my first results.
> 
> 
> I also have a severe dip in amplitude as another poster did at 10 kHz. Not sure why; phase is correct, nothing is blocking a direct path from any tweeter. From the first post-ARC listen, the sound is noticeably more neutral, directionality increased, tonal colouration reduced! Now to rediscover my collection and read of more experiences throughout this forum...
> 
> 
> Any suggestions toward improving upon the calculated results appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> John



Your Test Level is still low. Bring it up about another 7dB. You want the basic volume level of the ARC solution to hit near 75dB (the volume of the flat part of the Target curves at the mid-range frequencies).


Don't forget to re-adjust the volume knob in your Sub as well. Zero all values in Setup > Level Calibration. Set Manual mode, adjust Test Level to get 75dB SPL, scroll down to a subwoofer line, leave that at 0dB, adjust the volume knob in your sub to yield 75dB SPL. Then redo your ARC Measurement. ARC uses Test Level to set the volume of its test tones. And adjusting the sub volume knob this way gets it into rough balance with the other speakers ahead of time. ARC will Upload the precise volume trims.


It looks like there is still a crossover active inside your subwoofer. Disable that or crank it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.


Make sure you have the ARC mic pointed straight up at each position, and that it is set at seated ear height. Your dip at 10KHz is likely due to a combination of directionality in the speakers and things like grill design. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height pay particular attention to their vertical pointing.

--Bob


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17297058
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, I don't know the answers to either of those questions.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, hopefully the flash eraser will solve the problem. I'll contact Anthem tomorrow.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks using the Motorola DCH series HD-DVR cable boxes (as for instance from Comcast), I just discovered that you can enable a remote button for cycling through the output resolutions.


These Motorola boxes only allow one HD output resolution at a time. You can also set it to do something different for SD programs. Typically when used with the Anthems you would set the box to 1080i for HD content and to 480i override for SD content. There is no "native" mode in these boxes to track whatever resolution is coming in on the HD channel at the moment.


[The new DCX series boxes do have a "native" mode, but these boxes are not available everywhere yet.]


Now the DCH series boxes have a format button on the front panel which will cycle through the "normal" -- i.e., HD -- output resolution without affecting the setting for 480i override. So you could use this to switch output to 720p when viewing an HD channel like FOX sports that broadcasts HD in 720p. Without any doubt whatsoever the scaling in the Anthem is superior to what these Motorola boxes do, so manually switching to the channel's "native" resolution like this is definitely better than letting the box upscale and re-interlace to 1080i output. Let the Anthem do all the scaling (and de-interlacing). And if you use Component video output from the box you won't even have extended HDMI handshakes to worry about -- just a short signal detection delay. Use Optical cable for audio.


There are three problems. First, there's no easy way to find out what the native resolution happens to be on any given HD channel at the moment. You just have to try both 720p and 1080i to see which looks better. You can actually get into a service menu and find out what's coming in on that channel but that's too confusing for normal use. 720p will typically be used for channels that broadcast a lot of HD sports -- but not always.


Second, there's no way to directly access a specific resolution or even to exclude 480i and 480p from the cycle. The function only cycles 1080i to 720p to 480p to 480i to 1080i. Fortunately you can press the button to change resolutions several times without having to wait for the signal to establish each time. You'll need to confirm with the Anthem's on-screen display that you ended up on the input resolution you were trying to get to.


And third, there's no button pre-programmed on the remote to do this!


Well that last problem, I've just discovered, can be fixed -- at least if you have the "silver" remote typically included with these boxes. You can re-assign any unused button on that remote to send the "cycle resolutions" code. I've used the "C" button on my "silver" remote. And once you've done that, you can then "learn" the code into any programmable remote you might be using.


To do this, invoke the following incantation:


1) Press the "Cable" button at the top of the Motorola DCH box's "silver" remote to set it to cable box functions.


2) Press and hold "Setup" until the Cable button flashes twice.


3) Type in 994 -- the Cable button will blink twice. This code tells the remote you want to reassign a button.


4) Press and release (do not hold) "Setup" again.


5) Type in the magic number for the function you want to assign. For the cycle resolutions function, the magic number is 00109.


6) Press the unused button you want to reassign to this function -- in my case the "C" button. The Cable button will flash twice if the reassignment has been successful.


[NOTE: This is the same procedure you use to assign "30-second Skip Forward" to a button. Typically folks put that on the "A" button since few people ever need that button and it is immediately adjacent to the 15-second Back Up button. The magic number for the 30-second Skip Forward function is 00173 -- which also works on the older DCT series boxes.]


--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17297304
> 
> 
> Your Test Level is still low. Bring it up about another 7dB. You want the basic volume level of the ARC solution to hit near 75dB (the volume of the flat part of the Target curves at the mid-range frequencies).
> 
> 
> Don't forget to re-adjust the volume knob in your Sub as well. Zero all values in Setup > Level Calibration. Set Manual mode, adjust Test Level to get 75dB SPL, scroll down to a subwoofer line, leave that at 0dB, adjust the volume knob in your sub to yield 75dB SPL. Then redo your ARC Measurement. ARC uses Test Level to set the volume of its test tones. And adjusting the sub volume knob this way gets it into rough balance with the other speakers ahead of time. ARC will Upload the precise volume trims.
> 
> 
> It looks like there is still a crossover active inside your subwoofer. Disable that or crank it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.
> 
> 
> Make sure you have the ARC mic pointed straight up at each position, and that it is set at seated ear height. Your dip at 10KHz is likely due to a combination of directionality in the speakers and things like grill design. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height pay particular attention to their vertical pointing.
> 
> --Bob



I did the changes you suggested there Bob but I may have made changes to my sub that maybe I shouldn't have. I have 4 adjustments I can make on my Servo, Phase Alignment which has a level of 0 degrees to 180 and I have set mine to 0. Sub Cut Off Frequency that ranges from 35Hz to 150 and I have set mine to 150. Base Contour that ranges from 0dB to +6 and I am set now at 0 and the Output Level, but something sounds a bit off. When you asked me to disable my sub's crossover or crank it up, were you referring to just the Cut Off Frequency and maybe I should have left the Phase Alignment and the Base Contour alone?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17297935
> 
> 
> I did the changes you suggested there Bob but I may have made changes to my sub that maybe I shouldn't have. I have 4 adjustments I can make on my Servo, Phase Alignment which has a level of 0 degrees to 180 and I have set mine to 0. Sub Cut Off Frequency that ranges from 35Hz to 150 and I have set mine to 150. Base Contour that ranges from 0dB to +6 and I am set now at 0 and the Output Level, but something sounds a bit off. When you asked me to disable my sub's crossover or crank it up, were you referring to just the Cut Off Frequency and maybe I should have left the Phase Alignment and the Base Contour alone?



The changes you describe all sound correct to me.


Did you redo your ARC setup after making them? You can't change settings that alter the sub's output without re-Measuring for ARC.


For guidance on setting Phase, see the post link in the Setup section of the collection of post links found in the first post of this thread.


Remember that after doing your ARC setup, you need to go in and manually confirm you have Room EQ = ON in Setup > Source Setup for each of your Sources.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Good review:

http://www.hemagazine.com/Anthem_Statement_D2v_Review


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Paradigm (parent of Anthem) has introduced a new subwoofer (the Sub 2) that prefers its own, dedicated, 240V 30AMP power socket. Good grief!

http://www.castercomm.com/prView.cfm?cid=113&id=351 


--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17300670
> 
> 
> Paradigm (parent of Anthem) has introduced a new subwoofer (the Sub 2) that prefers its own, dedicated, 240V 30AMP power socket. Good grief!
> 
> http://www.castercomm.com/prView.cfm?cid=113&id=351
> 
> 
> --Bob



WHY do you think I have a dedicated 220V @ 100 AMP circuit

for my Theater. LFE takes lots of Juice


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I thought that was to power the "low rider" bouncing floor?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17300754
> 
> 
> I thought that was to power the "low rider" bouncing floor?
> 
> --Bob



I do have 21,000 watts of Audio just for moving the floors


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17297987
> 
> 
> The changes you describe all sound correct to me.
> 
> 
> Did you redo your ARC setup after making them? You can't change settings that alter the sub's output without re-Measuring for ARC.
> 
> 
> For guidance on setting Phase, see the post link in the Setup section of the collection of post links found in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> Remember that after doing your ARC setup, you need to go in and manually confirm you have Room EQ = ON in Setup > Source Setup for each of your Sources.
> 
> --Bob



I did redo ARC and here are the results.


----------



## zzzzdoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17300772
> 
> 
> I do have 21,000 watts of Audio just for moving the floors



You didn't cause that tsunami, did you?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zzzzdoc* /forum/post/17304439
> 
> 
> You didn't cause that tsunami, did you?



NO I was Away from the theater then










But I can recreate the Tsunami in the Theater


----------



## dherrick

Bob - Well the Flash Eraser did not work.


Still get the same "Cannot connect to new OKI boot loader in external FLASH" error when attempting to load v1.33


Any other suggestions or does the unit need to go back to the factory?


Thanks.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/17304557
> 
> 
> Bob - Well the Flash Eraser did not work.
> 
> 
> Still get the same "Cannot connect to new OKI boot loader in external FLASH" error when attempting to load v1.33
> 
> 
> Any other suggestions or does the unit need to go back to the factory?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



What USB adapter are you using? Do you have the up to date drivers for it? Have you done an update with it before?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/17304557
> 
> 
> Bob - Well the Flash Eraser did not work.
> 
> 
> Still get the same "Cannot connect to new OKI boot loader in external FLASH" error when attempting to load v1.33
> 
> 
> Any other suggestions or does the unit need to go back to the factory?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Download a fresh copy of the V1.33 firmware installer.


Make sure you have no powered HDMI connections -- I recommend you remove wall power from everything in your setup except for the Anthem and your computer.


Run the Flash Eraser several times -- 4 or 5. Power cycle the Anthem, including using the back panel power switch. Reboot your computer. Make sure no other programs are running on your computer. For example if Windows Messenger starts when you boot up, find it in the task tray and exit out of it.


Then try the firmware install again. Make sure your computer doesn't go into screen saver or go to sleep during the install -- i.e., move the mouse a bit every now and again.


It is VERY unusual that the Flash Eraser doesn't cure this problem. But if that's the case, then you'll likely need hardware service.


However if you have another Windows computer available, try that first (Flash Eraser and Install).

--Bob


----------



## Janski

Hello All,


I have interest in making use of the balanced XLR circuitry. Some believe it can increase focus in mids/highs and possibly result in a lower noise floor. It is superior at rejecting noise, but this is said to be an issue only with long runs, bad setups or both. Whatever the truth, let thy ears be thy judge.


My question is; is anyone aware of how XLRs are used in a 10 channel biamping scenario? Consider if we have 2 amplifier channels to each of the front 3 speakers (6 ch) and the remaining 4 channels for surrounds. It is possible to use both RCAs and XLRs simultaneously, but this results in an unbalanced output due to the higher output of the XLRs. (XLRs used for mid/high frequency drivers) Not all amplifiers have the attenuation switch and we cannot adjust the channel level as it will not solve the lack of balance in differing frequencies in the same channels..


It seems to me in this case, one cannot use XLRs, but rather 10 x RCAs with 5 Y connectors. Unless, has anyone ever seen/heard of such a thing as stackable balanced audio connectors?


My ARC run is postponed due to 4 overdriven midranges in my Mirage OM7 speakers... (Oops!)


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/17304743
> 
> 
> What USB adapter are you using? Do you have the up to date drivers for it? Have you done an update with it before?



I'm using a Cablemax USB to serial adapter with a Prolific USB to Serial Windows certified driver. I have used it before for past updates without a problem. I am now using a computer with Vista and I believe the last time I updated it was from a machine running XP. Does that make a difference?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/17304797
> 
> 
> I'm using a Cablemax USB to serial adapter with a Prolific USB to Serial Windows certified driver. I have used it before for past updates without a problem. I am now using a computer with Vista and I believe the last time I updated it was from a machine running XP. Does that make a difference?



I don't know that adapter. Make sure you have the latest driver for it for Vista (go to the adapter's support site).


Most folks have had the best luck with the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter -- available from Amazon and other places. If you change adapters, I recommend you uninstall the driver for the old adapter first.

--Bob


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17304775
> 
> 
> Download a fresh copy of the V1.33 firmware installer.
> 
> 
> Make sure you have no powered HDMI connections -- I recommend you remove wall power from everything in your setup except for the Anthem and your computer.
> 
> 
> Run the Flash Eraser several times -- 4 or 5. Power cycle the Anthem, including using the back panel power switch. Reboot your computer. Make sure no other programs are running on your computer. For example if Windows Messenger starts when you boot up, find it in the task tray and exit out of it.
> 
> 
> Then try the firmware install again. Make sure your computer doesn't go into screen saver or go to sleep during the install -- i.e., move the mouse a bit every now and again.
> 
> 
> It is VERY unusual that the Flash Eraser doesn't cure this problem. But if that's the case, then you'll likely need hardware service.
> 
> 
> However if you have another Windows computer available, try that first (Flash Eraser and Install).
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I'll try it.


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/17304829
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I'll try it.



Unfortunately no luck. Get the same message. Looks like its a hardware issue. Thanks for your advice.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/17304928
> 
> 
> Unfortunately no luck. Get the same message. Looks like its a hardware issue. Thanks for your advice.



It is still possible the problem is that your USB adapter doesn't really work well with Vista.


Do you have another computer you could try?

--Bob


----------



## dherrick

This is the USB to Serial adapter that I am using.

http://www.usbgear.com/USB-PRODUCT-D...2&catid=&cats= 


When I go to Device Manager and ask to update driver it comes back that I am using the latest driver.


----------



## dherrick

Sorry posted the wrong link.

http://www.usbgear.com/USB-PRODUCT-D...2&catid=&cats= 


I try tomorrow with my work computer running XP


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here is that product on CableMax's own web site:

http://www.cablemax.net/detail/index.cfm?nPID=70720 


(note that the "barcode" and "SKU" is the same as the "product number" on the USBGEAR site).


But on this page it does not show the product as being Vista compatible.


I tried going to their drivers page but their server barfed. Not very encouraging. Their web site is only Copyright up through 2005 as well.

--Bob


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17305062
> 
> 
> Here is that product on CableMax's own web site:
> 
> http://www.cablemax.net/detail/index.cfm?nPID=70720
> 
> 
> (note that the "barcode" and "SKU" is the same as the "product number" on the USBGEAR site).
> 
> 
> But on this page it does not show the product as being Vista compatible.
> 
> 
> I tried going to their drivers page but their server barfed. Not very encouraging. Their web site is only Copyright up through 2005 as well.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - I appreciate your help. If you look on the USBGear site it states that the adapter uses a Prolific chipset. Went to Prolific's site and updated driver to a new driver 3.3.5.122 for Vista dated 7/17/09. Still no luck.

http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/downloads.asp?ID=31


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here's the product page for the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter (Tripp Lite now owns Keyspan) showing up to date drivers supporting Vista 32/64 bit -- even for Mac OS X 10.6 which just recently came out.

http://www.tripplite.com/en/products...xtModelID=3914 


You can get it for a lot less than $46 (e.g., at Amazon):

http://www.tripplite.com/en/products...?sSKU=USA-19HS 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We've also had a few reports that oddball communication problems could be fixed by disabling any software firewall you might have active in Windows.


I don't know how much reality there is to that.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/17304557
> 
> 
> Bob - Well the Flash Eraser did not work.
> 
> 
> Still get the same "Cannot connect to new OKI boot loader in external FLASH" error when attempting to load v1.33
> 
> 
> Any other suggestions or does the unit need to go back to the factory?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Don't forget to run the flash eraser until it says that it completed sucessfully. The last time I had to run, I think that I had to run 3 times.

Each time it was deleting one more section of flash eprom.


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/17305122
> 
> 
> Bob - I appreciate your help. If you look on the USBGear site it states that the adapter uses a Prolific chipset. Went to Prolific's site and updated driver to a new driver 3.3.5.122 for Vista dated 7/17/09. Still no luck.
> 
> http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/downloads.asp?ID=31



I had same/similar problem as yourself a while back - went through same process (updating USB/serial drivers etc) after having got the same error messages as yourself. However, what worked for me was to go back to v1.21 of the Anthem firmware. That installed, then I upgraded to v1.33. This approach may help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/17305584
> 
> 
> I had same/similar problem as yourself a while back - went through same process (updating USB/serial drivers etc) after having got the same error messages as yourself. However, what worked for me was to go back to v1.21 of the Anthem firmware. That installed, then I upgraded to v1.33. This approach may help.



But in your case, didn't you install "test" V1.47f first on inappropriate hardware (i.e., before we knew that was a problem)?


Anthem has taken down the copy of V1.21g (as I recall) that they had on the password protected site for a while to help people who did that. So unless he has a copy of that stashed he'd have to get Anthem to put it back up for him.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17297210
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Your first suggestion nailed it! Increased the test volume to -12dB and am now ARC'ing like Noah, thanks! Used 5 positions around my centrally located chair, about 3 feet apart.
> 
> 
> I'll attach my first results.
> 
> 
> I also have a severe dip in amplitude as another poster did at 10 kHz. Not sure why; phase is correct, nothing is blocking a direct path from any tweeter. From the first post-ARC listen, the sound is noticeably more neutral, directionality increased, tonal colouration reduced! Now to rediscover my collection and read of more experiences throughout this forum...
> 
> 
> Any suggestions toward improving upon the calculated results appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17304218
> 
> 
> I did redo ARC and here are the results.




I now have a meter and will redo again to get at 75dB, but looks like something is strange with the sub would anyone agree?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17306397
> 
> 
> I now have a meter and will redo again to get at 75dB, but looks like something is strange with the sub would anyone agree?



Don't worry about hitting 75dB precisely. Ballpark close is good enough.


The sub doesn't look bad in the results you posted yesterday. You may not have fully disabled its internal crossover, however.


What did you spot that's concerning you?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks who are adjusting Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level, just a reminder that to get an accurate reading while doing that you must FIRST zero out the line for the Left Front speaker. The two settings interact.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17306420
> 
> 
> Don't worry about hitting 75dB precisely. Ballpark close is good enough.
> 
> 
> The sub doesn't look bad in the results you posted yesterday. You may not have fully disabled its internal crossover, however.
> 
> 
> What did you spot that's concerning you?
> 
> --Bob




After redoing ARC I find that my sound is more localized towards the centre, if I manually turn up the fronts and lower the centre it's not so bad, may be that I still have to get my sub in phase? Thought that that hiccup in the sub at 100k may have meant something. John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Post your charts and your Targets window. Don't alter any of the Targets ARC has found for you except for Max EQ Frequency.


Make sure you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON for every Source.


After doing an ARC Upload, be careful not to alter any of the settings ARC has placed in the Setup menu. Save User and Installer Settings to capture the changes ARC has made in Setup into those memories so that you don't accidentally undo them.


Double check the polarity of all your main speakers -- i.e., whether the main speakers are in phase with each other or you have some wires swapped. Having wires swapped on one or more speakers will dramatically screw up your audio imaging/focus.


If you make any changes there recheck the Polarity/Phase of your Sub as well.


The little Measured peak at 100Hz in the Sub curves from yesterday is no problem. ARC has corrected it.

--Bob


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17306063
> 
> 
> But in your case, didn't you install "test" V1.47f first on inappropriate hardware (i.e., before we knew that was a problem)?
> 
> 
> Anthem has taken down the copy of V1.21g (as I recall) that they had on the password protected site for a while to help people who did that. So unless he has a copy of that stashed he'd have to get Anthem to put it back up for him.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, you remember my situation well.


In the process of trying to reinstall the 1.33 firmware after the failed install of the latest 1.47 firmware, I too got the "OKI bootloader" error message (amongst others).


What prompted me to go back to v1.21g was my last hope: something got corrupted with the 1.47 install which precluded the 1.33 reinstall. Hence, when 2.21g installed correctly, the only conclusion I could come to is that the installer used in 1.21g (relevant to an older D2, as mine is) can "rectify" whatever was corrupted by the 1.47.


I hope this makes sense.


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob,

I have a minor issue.

When I turn th Room Eq off for any source, I loose sound. I tried changing sources and blieve even turned the unit on and off but didn't work. Any suggestions? Thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17307695
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> I have a minor issue.
> 
> When I turn th Room Eq off for any source, I loose sound. I tried changing sources and blieve even turned the unit on and off but didn't work. Any suggestions? Thanks,



No suggestions. I turn Room EQ on and off regularly when testing various things and haven't lost audio.


Do you lose the audio at the moment you make the change, or only when you back out of the Setup menu?


Remember that the Setup menu acts like a "Source" so when you leave it to go back to wherever you were the Mode Preset defaults for that Source get applied. But you shouldn't lose audio.


If you have a repeatable case, please give Anthem tech support a call.


Meanwhile, check the various status indicators -- e.g., pressing Select multiple times, pressing Mode once, viewing Video Source Adjust > Info -- to see if you can spot something that might explain what's happening such as ending up on a Source that happens to be powered off or some such.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17307878
> 
> 
> No suggestions. I turn Room EQ on and off regularly when testing various things and haven't lost audio.
> 
> 
> Do you lose the audio at the moment you make the change, or only when you back out of the Setup menu?
> 
> 
> Remember that the Setup menu acts like a "Source" so when you leave it to go back to wherever you were the Mode Preset defaults for that Source get applied. But you shouldn't lose audio.
> 
> 
> If you have a repeatable case, please give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, check the various status indicators -- e.g., pressing Select multiple times, pressing Mode once, viewing Video Source Adjust > Info -- to see if you can spot something that might explain what's happening such as ending up on a Source that happens to be powered off or some such.
> 
> --Bob



I believe I loose audio as soon as I turn RE off. I checked the source but still no sound.

I try to keep in touch with Piero or Nick.

Thanks Bob.


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I have tested 4:2:2 with the oppo and my D2v and have not experienced any of your observations. Everything looks good. I have left my XA2 at 4:4:4 and of course set a diff. Video output specific to it.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks for the report.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

How's this for bad luck? Not only did my new D2v have to go back to Anthem because it did not work, one of my new Signature S6's has a bad midrange driver and has to be replaced.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Deep sigh....


Well here's hoping the pendulum swings the other way now and you have a wonderful experience with your new D2v and fixed speaker!

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17309242
> 
> 
> Deep sigh....
> 
> 
> Well here's hoping the pendulum swings the other way now and you have a wonderful experience with your new D2v and fixed speaker!
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Hope you're right. Do you know anything about the Signature speakers? Apparently Paradigm can't replace the speaker as they have no more v2 S6's in gloss black so they are sending the driver. Should I be concerned with the integrity of the speaker with a replaced driver?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Replacing the driver should be fine.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17310224
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Hope you're right. Do you know anything about the Signature speakers? Apparently Paradigm can't replace the speaker as they have no more v2 S6's in gloss black so they are sending the driver. Should I be concerned with the integrity of the speaker with a replaced driver?



Greetings,


I agree with Bob. There should no structural integrity concerns with replacing the driver. Just follow the instructions precisely and use care.


Best of luck!



Regards,


----------



## Nicoff

I have been listening to music using the AnthemLogic-Music surround mode. This surround mode does NOT use the center channel.


I read on previous posts that for music listening some of you ran the ARC calibration without a center channel.


When I ran ARC, I assumed a center channel for both cinema and music. By choosing the AnthemLogic-Music mode (i.e., no center channel), am I achieving the same sound as if I ran ARC without a center channel for music?


----------



## esander3

Almost, the advantage of using an ARC music set-up with less speakers is so that ARC can dedicate more resources to the speakers that are active.


If ARC does not need to compensate for the center channel, it may be able to better solve for the other speakers that are active.


----------



## esander3

Bob,


Sorry, I know this question has been asked before and answered, but I hope you would not mind recommending how I should set-up my Oppo BDP-83 to interact with my AVM-50. FYI - I have a Epson PowerLight Home Cinema 1080 UB projector. The projector is connected to the AVM-50 via HDMI and I am running the current public release software, 1.33? Thanks.


Ed


----------



## xtrips

Hello, can somebody please give me the D2 > D2v trade-in price practised in the US and if possible in Europe too.

I need this urgently.


Thank you


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/17312260
> 
> 
> Hello, can somebody please give me the D2 > D2v trade-in price practised in the US and if possible in Europe too.
> 
> I need this urgently.
> 
> 
> Thank you



If you hunt through the thread you can get some US numbers that have been sent from Anthem. But to get best information sent an email to them (sales) and I am sure you will get a pretty quick response.


As a side I went to my local dealer a couple of weeks ago and he indicated that Anthem was going to increase prices across the board at the beginning of November. I am aso sure that the upgrade prices will also go up if this happens.


----------



## Sfox7076

How do you get access to the password protected site?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sfox7076* /forum/post/17312962
> 
> 
> How do you get access to the password protected site?



You need to CALL Anthem Tech Support.


----------



## bluemark81

Shipped last week, now MIA. Apparently went to another city? The S6 driver was shipped yesterday. What an ordeal.


----------



## jpoet

I have decided to buy the D2v. Contacted the dealer that sold me my AVM 20v2, and he is willing to get a D2v for me, but would rather not. He says that Anthem is a good company over-all, but he *hates* dealing with their accounting department. He hates dealing with their accounting department so much, that he pretty much does not sell Anthem any more.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17315374
> 
> 
> Shipped last week, now MIA. Apparently went to another city? The S6 driver was shipped yesterday. What an ordeal.



Did they ship it to your home address or to your dealer?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/17315569
> 
> 
> I have decided to buy the D2v. Contacted the dealer that sold me my AVM 20v2, and he is willing to get a D2v for me, but would rather not. He says that Anthem is a good company over-all, but he *hates* dealing with their accounting department. He hates dealing with their accounting department so much, that he pretty much does not sell Anthem any more.
> 
> 
> John



Give Anthem a call directly. They should be able to sort this out for you -- perhaps through a different dealer.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17315603
> 
> 
> Did they ship it to your home address or to your dealer?
> 
> --Bob



Dealer


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17315648
> 
> 
> Dealer



Does the dealer have more than one location? Perhaps they shipped to the other location?

--Bob


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17315617
> 
> 
> Give Anthem a call directly. They should be able to sort this out for you -- perhaps through a different dealer.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


I will give him a few days to work it out. If he can't then I will call Anthem.


In Albuquerque, Anthem currently lists a local budget chain called Baillo's as their "Authorized" dealer. I refused to buy anything from Baillo's, and I seriously doubt they actually sell Anthem. I bet they are listed because they sell the low-end Paradigm stuff.


John


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/17315569
> 
> 
> I have decided to buy the D2v. Contacted the dealer that sold me my AVM 20v2, and he is willing to get a D2v for me, but would rather not. He says that Anthem is a good company over-all, but he *hates* dealing with their accounting department. He hates dealing with their accounting department so much, that he pretty much does not sell Anthem any more.
> 
> 
> John



Sounds more like a problem with that dealer. My dealer stopped selling Anthem as well, right in the middle of the ARC introduction.


I guess I should say ex-dealer.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem has two dealer locators on their web site -- one for normal stores and one for "custom installers" who typically don't have a store front and typically sell in conjunction with services like installation. But sometimes the local "custom installer" turns out to be easier to deal with.


Also, if you are near a state line, be sure to check for zip codes on the other side.


As you can imagine in this economy, the relationship between dealers and manufacturers sometimes gets strained.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17315681
> 
> 
> Does the dealer have more than one location? Perhaps they shipped to the other location?
> 
> --Bob



Thats what they think happened and looking into it.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/17312880
> 
> 
> If you hunt through the thread you can get some
> 
> 
> As a side I went to my local dealer a couple of weeks ago and he indicated that Anthem was going to increase prices across the board at the beginning of November. I am aso sure that the upgrade prices will also go up if this happens.



Do you have any idea how much this increase will be?


----------



## pjpoon

Hi Bob. I have an OPPO BDP83 with the latest firmware and the D2v with firmware 2.07f. Already sent this to Oppo and Anthem but would like your thoughts.


I have noticed something while watching BluRay discs and am not sure where the issue lies. Occasionally I will notice what looks like a skipped frame. The movie will look like it jumped forward just a little, like a bad edit, but in a place where there should be no edit. Replaying the area will not duplicate the problem. There is no loss of sound sync. I have the Oppo set at source direct and I have the D2v set to output 1920-1080p24.


I noticed when I went into the video source adjustment on the D2v and looked at the info window, the Oppo is inputting at a frame rate of 23.97 and the D2v is outputting at a frame rate of 23.98. Is this a true discrepancy or a rounding error?


Would this discrepancy account for what I am seeing or is this a normal occurrence?


Oppo reply was this should cause tearing, not skipping. No thoughts from Anthem yet.


Thanks for your thoughts.


Phil


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The frame rate is actually, precisely 23.976fps. If you press Select multiple times to see the video input rate, and also look in Video Source Adjust > Info, you'll see that one says 23.97 and the other says 23.98. This is your clue that the input rate is 23.976 as expected.


Off hand I think this may be a problem in your display.


You should have Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock = OFF.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Bob you've been raving so much about the Oppo Blu-ray I ordered one. I have a new 65V10 Plasma with a D2.(currently using a Panasonic BD-55 Blu-ray) Hopefully I won't have any troubles with this new player. I did finally get 24fps to work. The current set up is very nice. I hope the Oppo is even better with zero problems. It's due to arrive tomorrow.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjpoon* /forum/post/17316970
> 
> 
> Hi Bob. I have an OPPO BDP83 with the latest firmware and the D2v with firmware 2.07f. Already sent this to Oppo and Anthem but would like your thoughts.
> 
> 
> I have noticed something while watching BluRay discs and am not sure where the issue lies. Occasionally I will notice what looks like a skipped frame. The movie will look like it jumped forward just a little, like a bad edit, but in a place where there should be no edit. Replaying the area will not duplicate the problem. There is no loss of sound sync. I have the Oppo set at source direct and I have the D2v set to output 1920-1080p24.
> 
> 
> I noticed when I went into the video source adjustment on the D2v and looked at the info window, the Oppo is inputting at a frame rate of 23.97 and the D2v is outputting at a frame rate of 23.98. Is this a true discrepancy or a rounding error?
> 
> 
> Would this discrepancy account for what I am seeing or is this a normal occurrence?
> 
> 
> Oppo reply was this should cause tearing, not skipping. No thoughts from Anthem yet.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your thoughts.
> 
> 
> Phil



What HDTV are you using pjpoon?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17319421
> 
> 
> Bob you've been raving so much about the Oppo Blu-ray I ordered one. I have a new 65V10 Plasma with a D2.(currently using a Panasonic BD-55 Blu-ray) Hopefully I won't have any troubles with this new player. I did finally get 24fps to work. The current set up is very nice. I hope the Oppo is even better with zero problems. It's due to arrive tomorrow.



Start by checking that you have the latest firmware as they just did a major update. See their support page for details.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

I would be realy interested in what differences/improvements you find vs the Sony as I have the exact same unit and was considering the same. Please keep us posted.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17319421
> 
> 
> Bob you've been raving so much about the Oppo Blu-ray I ordered one. I have a new 65V10 Plasma with a D2.(currently using a Panasonic BD-55 Blu-ray) Hopefully I won't have any troubles with this new player. I did finally get 24fps to work. The current set up is very nice. I hope the Oppo is even better with zero problems. It's due to arrive tomorrow.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17319773
> 
> 
> Start by checking that you have the latest firmware as they just did a major update. See their support page for details.
> 
> --Bob



Gotcha. Yeah, I was looking at their website and you can upgrade the firmware with a jump drive. I like that. The new firmware update shows it improves quite a few things.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17319816
> 
> 
> I would be realy interested in what differences/improvements you find vs the Sony as I have the exact same unit and was considering the same. Please keep us posted.



Texas steve you have a 65V10 with a D2?? You want to know how much I like the Oppo Blu-ray correct?


----------



## Kensmith48

I have an Anthem D2, a JVC RS20 projector and an OppO 83 Blu Ray player. I have them connected via hdmi. I have it set at 1080p/24. Everything is fine when I play a blu ray dvd but with a standard dvd sometimes I get what looks like it's skipping frames. It lasts for approx. 5 minutes and then returns to normal. It does it about 3 times during a movie.

I'm thinking I should only be using the video settings from one component, but I tried setting the video scaler in the D2 to off and letting the Oppo handle it and I get no video.

Any suggestions on how to set the 3 components up so that the standard dvd's will play correctly?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Older D2v firmware V2.04 has appeared on Anthem's password protected download page this afternoon (Link 7, "Test 2"). This is presumably to help someone who is diagnosing a problem. The "official" firmware remains V2.07 and "test" firmware versions V2.07f and V2.07g remain unchanged.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17319421
> 
> 
> Bob you've been raving so much about the Oppo Blu-ray I ordered one. I have a new 65V10 Plasma with a D2.(currently using a Panasonic BD-55 Blu-ray) Hopefully I won't have any troubles with this new player. I did finally get 24fps to work. The current set up is very nice. I hope the Oppo is even better with zero problems. It's due to arrive tomorrow.



The OPPO is a killer blu-ray player. Lived with it for a few months now and have absolutely no complaints.


----------



## pjpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17319428
> 
> 
> What HDTV are you using pjpoon?



A JVC HD-750.

http://tv.jvc.com/product.jsp?pathId...lId=MODL028428


----------



## pjpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17317391
> 
> 
> The frame rate is actually, precisely 23.976fps. If you press Select multiple times to see the video input rate, and also look in Video Source Adjust > Info, you'll see that one says 23.97 and the other says 23.98. This is your clue that the input rate is 23.976 as expected.
> 
> 
> Off hand I think this may be a problem in your display.
> 
> 
> You should have Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock = OFF.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. That explains the frame rate "difference". I do have frame lock off.


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjpoon* /forum/post/17321611
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. That explains the frame rate "difference". I do have frame lock off.



Why don't you do the upscaling in the Oppo? It has a really good scaler, and just have two different outputs set up in the Anthem one at 1080p 24 fps and the other at 1080p 60 fps.. Use the former for most of the blu ray playback and the other for dvds, cds, etc...


----------



## pjpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/17321651
> 
> 
> Why don't you do the upscaling in the Oppo? It has a really good scaler, and just have two different outputs set up in the Anthem one at 1080p 24 fps and the other at 1080p 60 fps.. Use the former for most of the blu ray playback and the other for dvds, cds, etc...



That's exactly how I have the Anthem set up. With the OPPO set at Source Direct, one output basically acts as a passthrough for Bluray discs and the second one upscales the 480i from a dvd to 1080p60. I figure I paid significantly more for the Anthem than I did for the Oppo so I may as well have it earn its keep.


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjpoon* /forum/post/17322058
> 
> 
> That's exactly how I have the Anthem set up. With the OPPO set at Source Direct, one output basically acts as a passthrough for Bluray discs and the second one upscales the 480i from a dvd to 1080p60. I figure I paid significantly more for the Anthem than I did for the Oppo so I may as well have it earn its keep.



If you read the avm50v's review at hometheaterhifi, it says that is better to keep the upscaling in the oppo mostly due to hdmi issues...For cable tv and other sources it may be better to do it in the anthem... Or why dont you try it both and perhaps you would like one or the other better...


----------



## Texas steve

No I have the Sony Bluray with the D2V. So I am interested how much better the Oppo is vs the Sony.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17321318
> 
> 
> Texas steve you have a 65V10 with a D2?? You want to know how much I like the Oppo Blu-ray correct?


----------



## eXcessive

Quick question:


I just had my Anthem AVM50v with ARC installed yesterday and I've also encountered the problem with the 8300 pvr's I read back some pages and sounds this is a known problem.


So has anyone heared if anthem is doing anything about it? I have to feel the issue is on there end since my AVM50 functioned just fine.


----------



## Milt99

I'm finally upgrading my video to a JVC pj.

Am I correct in assuming that I should leave my D2 set to 1080p 4:4:4

and this will bypass the internal processing in the pj?

I'm using a PS3 and a Tosh A30 something HD player.

TIA.


----------



## bluemark81

With a Pioneer 151FD, what data space should I set the Anthem at?


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17324320
> 
> 
> With a Pioneer 151FD, what data space should I set the Anthem at?



I have the 150FD and I use HDTV YCbCr 4:4:4


----------



## netroamer

I have been trying to contact Anthem Support all week, with no success, to get some direction on what pitfalls, if any, are involved in loading saved D2 Setup and Live Video settings to a new D2v arriving today. Also, is it recommended to run ARC again or upload my older files. Any info would be appreciated.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/17312260
> 
> 
> Hello, can somebody please give me the D2 > D2v trade-in price practised in the US and if possible in Europe too.
> 
> I need this urgently.
> 
> 
> Thank you



I've taken part in the Anthem trade up program. I started the process Sept 9, 2009. As most here already know I have to return my D2 with all accessories that came with it along with my original bill of sale. The cost to do the upgrade is 4199.00 Canadian funds plus 5% GST (good and service tax). It was recommended that I ship my D2 to them via UPS without insurance. I don't know what the shipping cost will be but as a reference I recently shipped my Bryston 9b to Ontario for warranty work and the bill to ship via Fedex was 365.00 cdn. The D2 weighs less than half as much as that Bryston amp but I expect shipping will still cost 150.00. I expect a total cost to upgrade of 4566.00 taxes in. Once Anthem receives my D2 and they're ready to ship they'll contact me and request a credit card number.


I received an email from Piero yesterday saying there are currently nine shipments ahead of me. I'm not sure if he was saying there have nine units in total that have to ship or if they have nine units as part of the trade in program that have to ship before me. In any event it doesn't matter at all to me. I still have my D2 so I'm not going without. Piero will email me when they're getting close to being able to ship me my D2v and at that time I'll pack my D2 up and send it back.


I hope this helps give you guys an idea of the time frame and costs involved. I'm four weeks into the process and I'm still nine shipments back. I have no idea how much longer I have to wait but I'll keep you posted.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17324984
> 
> 
> I have been trying to contact Anthem Support all week, with no success, to get some direction on what pitfalls, if any, are involved in loading saved D2 Setup and Live Video settings to a new D2v arriving today. Also, is it recommended to run ARC again or upload my older files. Any info would be appreciated.



There's no problem at all porting your settings from the D2 to the D2v.


Use SettingsBackup utility to transfer your Setup menu settings via a PC file.


Use LiveVideoSettingsEditor utility to transfer your Video Source Adjust Menu settings via a PC file.


Both utilities will be found in the Utilities folder of the ARC install kit.


--------------------------


However, you will need to redo your ARC setup from scratch for the new D2v. Be sure you don't get mixed up on which ARC mic you are using. Use the one that comes with your D2v. ARC V2.3 may ask you which mic you are using, and if so, be sure to specify the correct one.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17324320
> 
> 
> With a Pioneer 151FD, what data space should I set the Anthem at?



Start with YCbCr 4:4:4 and get familiar with that. After you have everything set up as best you can, experiment with YCbCr 4:2:2 and see if you like that better. Be sure to recheck your setup when you switch formats.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17323497
> 
> 
> I'm finally upgrading my video to a JVC pj.
> 
> Am I correct in assuming that I should leave my D2 set to 1080p 4:4:4
> 
> and this will bypass the internal processing in the pj?
> 
> I'm using a PS3 and a Tosh A30 something HD player.
> 
> TIA.



It's hard to guess what settings actually minimize processing in any display or projector, but sure, that's a good start.


Check out the post link on "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" to learn the basics for video setup for sources and display. You'll find it in the collection of post links in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eXcessive* /forum/post/17322772
> 
> 
> Quick question:
> 
> 
> I just had my Anthem AVM50v with ARC installed yesterday and I've also encountered the problem with the 8300 pvr's I read back some pages and sounds this is a known problem.
> 
> 
> So has anyone heared if anthem is doing anything about it? I have to feel the issue is on there end since my AVM50 functioned just fine.



As best I can tell, this seems to be a problem with some firmware versions on the 8300 when connected to an HDMI V1.3 receiver. If that's correct, there's nothing Anthem can do about it. The fix needs to be implemented in the 8300.


My recommendation would be to consider using Component video and Optical digital audio from the 8300. You'll lose nothing as regards audio/video quality and you'll avoid its HDMI issues.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjpoon* /forum/post/17322058
> 
> 
> That's exactly how I have the Anthem set up. With the OPPO set at Source Direct, one output basically acts as a passthrough for Bluray discs and the second one upscales the 480i from a dvd to 1080p60. I figure I paid significantly more for the Anthem than I did for the Oppo so I may as well have it earn its keep.



Source Direct in the Oppo bypasses much of its video processing. This means you don't have access to some of its convenience features such as Zoom modes and automatic pillarboxing of 4:3 SD-DVD content.


But the de-interlacing and scaling in the Oppo BDP-83 is good enough that there's really no need to do this. I use explicit 1080p output from the Oppo into my D2v for both Blu-ray and SD-DVD.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Bob, so your saying that the Oppo video processing is better or at least equal to the D2v. Is that true



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17325626
> 
> 
> Source Direct in the Oppo bypasses much of its video processing. This means you don't have access to some of its convenience features such as Zoom modes and automatic pillarboxing of 4:3 SD-DVD content.
> 
> 
> But the de-interlacing and scaling in the Oppo BDP-83 is good enough that there's really no need to do this. I use explicit 1080p output from the Oppo into my D2v for both Blu-ray and SD-DVD.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## jpoet

On the D2v, I assume the only difference between the "standard version" and the "no handle" version is the front face-plate?


It looks like the "standard version" basically has wings sticking out from it? It looks like those wings arc out in front of the unit.


My stereo "rack" can accommodate up to 19.5 inches of width, but has a lip around the front such that the front opening is only 18 inches wide.


The "standard version" would probably slide in just fine, and those wings would end up kind-of wrapping around that lip. I am trying to decide if that would look good, or if I should go with the "no handle" version.


Anyone have any useful pictures to help me with my decision?


Thanks,


John


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/17325190
> 
> 
> It was recommended that I ship my D2 to them via UPS without insurance.










Really? So they will cover the cost if UPS lose it???




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/17325190
> 
> 
> I don't know what the shipping cost will be



When I had to return my unit earlier this year I shipped it from the East Coast up to their NY warehouse at an insured cost of around $50 or so....I don't remember exactly but remember it was a lot less than I expected.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17325947
> 
> 
> Bob, so your saying that the Oppo video processing is better or at least equal to the D2v. Is that true



In short, yes. Now understand that the Oppo has only one specific type of video challenge to deal with, where the D2v has to handle the general case.


But they are both excellent. They both do the common stuff perfectly. For the more difficult cases the D2v does some things better and the Oppo does other things better, but neither really screws up on anything so you'd be hard pressed to spot a difference in normal use unless you happened to know just what to look for and also had source material that was difficult in precisely that way.


I've done extensive comparison and I'm perfectly comfortable letting the Oppo do what it does for de-interlacing and scaling.


You can do some of the same sort of thing using the de-interlacing tests on the Spears & Munsil disc. Note that you have to try all the tests using all 3 encodings to get the full picture: HD VC1, SD VC1, and SD MPEG2. You can select that from the disc's setup menu.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/17326029
> 
> 
> On the D2v, I assume the only difference between the "standard version" and the "no handle" version is the front face-plate?
> 
> 
> It looks like the "standard version" basically has wings sticking out from it? It looks like those wings arc out in front of the unit.
> 
> 
> My stereo "rack" can accommodate up to 19.5 inches of width, but has a lip around the front such that the front opening is only 18 inches wide.
> 
> 
> The "standard version" would probably slide in just fine, and those wings would end up kind-of wrapping around that lip. I am trying to decide if that would look good, or if I should go with the "no handle" version.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any useful pictures to help me with my decision?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> John



The only difference between the standard version (wing handles), the rack-mount version (wing handles with bolt holes), and the narrow version (no handles) is the front plate.


Here's a PDF file with pictures of all 3 -- a D2 is shown but the D2v is no different in this regard:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...l_Versions.pdf 


The handles stick out to the sides almost flush with rest of the face plate and curl slightly backwards. I have my RS-232 cable permanently attached in back and left curled up on the left hand side of the unit (as you face it) when not in use. The wing handle on that side does a nice job of concealing it. The wing handles also act as a reminder to give some spacing to the sides of the unit for ventilation as well as above it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Some older AVM 30 firmware versions from 2005 and 2006 have appeared this afternoon on Anthem's password protected download page (Link 6, "Test 1"). Presumably these have been put up to help some customer diagnose a specific problem.

--Bob


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17326439
> 
> 
> Here's a PDF file with pictures of all 3 -- a D2 is shown but the D2v is no different in this regard:
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...l_Versions.pdf



Thanks, Bob, that helps.


John


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Ok I installed the Oppo Blu-ray. And of course something is not right. Sigh!

Did the set up menu. 1stAuto on the video setting now I made it 1080P and set it to 24fps. Well my display says 720P either way. And so I went into the D2 to change it to 1080P 1920 ect 24fps.(it had automatically set it back to 720P cause I did not change it. The D2 won't let me change it back. It says are you sure you want to make the change and it changes it back to 720P. Help. Nothing is ever simple is it!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17327085
> 
> 
> Ok I installed the Oppo Blu-ray. And of course something is not right. Sigh!
> 
> Did the set up menu. 1stAuto on the video setting now I made it 1080P and set it to 24fps. Well my display says 720P either way. And so I went into the D2 to change it to 1080P 1920 ect 24fps.(it had automatically set it back to 720P cause I did not change it. The D2 won't let me change it back. It says are you sure you want to make the change and it changes it back to 720P. Help. Nothing is ever simple is it!



The video input from the Oppo and the video output to your display are two different and independent things. For example, I get 1080p/24 from the Oppo (for Blu-Ray playback) and have my D2v convert that to 768p/60 for output to my display.


First of all, are you sure your display accepts 1080p/24 as a valid input format?


Changes you make to the D2 in Setup > Video Output don't take effect until you confirm them. You do that by using Right Arrow to change the No to Yes when it asks you to confirm, then hit Select to actually make it happen. If you are using a programmable remote, it may have some key bounce or be sending multiple command codes so you are actually sending 2 Right Arrows (thus changing No to Yes to No again).


If you are setting up 1080p/24 as a separate Video Output configuration (one of the 4 allowed), remember that you need to specify in Setup > Source Setup for the Oppo input Source definition in the D2 that you want to use that new configuration by default. Alternatively, you can use the shortcut from the Anthem remote control to switch between your Video Output configurations.

--Bob


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/17315686
> 
> 
> In Albuquerque, Anthem currently lists a local budget chain called Baillo's as their "Authorized" dealer. I refused to buy anything from Baillo's, and I seriously doubt they actually sell Anthem. I bet they are listed because they sell the low-end Paradigm stuff.
> 
> 
> John



I found an Anthem dealer in Santa Fe. Turns out his relationship with Anthem/Paradigm is not that great either. I got the impression he may stop carrying Anthem, too.


This make me vary nervous. What is Anthem doing to alienate their dealers?


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/17327218
> 
> 
> I found an Anthem dealer in Santa Fe. Turns out his relationship with Anthem/Paradigm is not that great either. I got the impression he may stop carrying Anthem, too.
> 
> 
> This make me vary nervous. What is Anthem doing to alienate their dealers?
> 
> 
> John



At a guess? Expecting them to pay.










I suspect in this economic climate, dealers are also trying to get out of having demo units in inventory. Or are hoping for discounts that Anthem won't give them.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17327205
> 
> 
> The video input from the Oppo and the video output to your display are two different and independent things. For example, I get 1080p/24 from the Oppo (for Blu-Ray playback) and have my D2v convert that to 768p/60 for output to my display.
> 
> 
> First of all, are you sure your display accepts 1080p/24 as a valid input format?
> 
> 
> Changes you make to the D2 in Setup > Video Output don't take effect until you confirm them. You do that by using Right Arrow to change the No to Yes when it asks you to confirm, then hit Select to actually make it happen. If you are using a programmable remote, it may have some key bounce or be sending multiple command codes so you are actually sending 2 Right Arrows (thus changing No to Yes to No again).
> 
> 
> If you are setting up 1080p/24 as a separate Video Output configuration (one of the 4 allowed), remember that you need to specify in Setup > Source Setup for the Oppo input Source definition in the D2 that you want to use that new configuration by default. Alternatively, you can use the shortcut from the Anthem remote control to switch between your Video Output configurations.
> 
> --Bob



They know you very well At Oppo Bob. They say it is how I have the Anthem set. Let me go back and try to reset it to 1080P 24fps. I have 65" V10 Panasonic. I had the Panasonic BD55 Blu-ray set up and it was doing 1080p 24fps. So everything worked before. Why would the Anthem go back to 720P? I didn't change it back to that. I did hit the toggle switch off on the back of the D2 when I was setting up the Oppo. So I essentially rebooted it. But I did not set it to 720P the unit itself did that. And the Display device takes 1080P.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17327237
> 
> 
> They know you very well At Oppo Bob. They say it is how I have the Anthem set. Let me go back and try to reset it to 1080P 24fps. I have 65" V10 Panasonic. I had the Panasonic BD55 Blu-ray set up and it was doing 1080p 24fps. So everything worked before. Why would the Anthem go back to 720P? I didn't change it back to that. I did hit the toggle switch off on the back of the D2 when I was setting up the Oppo. So I essentially rebooted it. But I did not set it to 720P the unit itself did that. And the Display device takes 1080P.



There's no reason it would change on its own. My guess is you did something in the D2's Setup menu without realizing it -- for example you might have switched to using a different Video Output Configuration that you haven't actually set up yet.


Just take your time and work through it step by step.


Set up the D2's Video Output stuff first. Start with 1080p/60 to keep things simple.

--Bob


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17327233
> 
> 
> At a guess? Expecting them to pay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suspect in this economic climate, dealers are also trying to get out of having demo units in inventory. Or are hoping for discounts that Anthem won't give them.
> 
> --Bob



The impression I got, was that he was working on his third 50v with serious problems, and that Anthem was refusing to exchange them.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/17327274
> 
> 
> The impression I got, was that he was working on his third 50v with serious problems, and that Anthem was refusing to exchange them.
> 
> 
> John



I suspect there's more going on here than the dealer told you. Any AVM 50v unit would still be under warranty. They haven't been out that long.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17327205
> 
> 
> The video input from the Oppo and the video output to your display are two different and independent things. For example, I get 1080p/24 from the Oppo (for Blu-Ray playback) and have my D2v convert that to 768p/60 for output to my display.
> 
> 
> First of all, are you sure your display accepts 1080p/24 as a valid input format?
> 
> 
> Changes you make to the D2 in Setup > Video Output don't take effect until you confirm them. You do that by using Right Arrow to change the No to Yes when it asks you to confirm, then hit Select to actually make it happen. If you are using a programmable remote, it may have some key bounce or be sending multiple command codes so you are actually sending 2 Right Arrows (thus changing No to Yes to No again).
> 
> 
> If you are setting up 1080p/24 as a separate Video Output configuration (one of the 4 allowed), remember that you need to specify in Setup > Source Setup for the Oppo input Source definition in the D2 that you want to use that new configuration by default. Alternatively, you can use the shortcut from the Anthem remote control to switch between your Video Output configurations.
> 
> --Bob



I got it to work Bob. Should I have LPCM set to 48Khz or 192Khz?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17327307
> 
> 
> I got it to work Bob. Should I have LPCM set to 48Khz or 192Khz?



It doesn't matter what you set it to unless you are using Optical/Coax Digital audio output from the Oppo -- and there's no reason to do that with your D2.


But just in case, use 96Khz with the D2 -- 192KHz with the D2v. If you try Optical or Coax, you'll find you almost always get 44.1KHz or 48KHz from various discs anyway.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17327317
> 
> 
> It doesn't matter what you set it to unless you are using Optical/Coax Digital audio output from the Oppo -- and there's no reason to do that with your D2.
> 
> 
> But just in case, use 96Khz with the D2 -- 192KHz with the D2v. If you try Optical or Coax, you'll find you almost always get 44.1KHz or 48KHz from various discs anyway.
> 
> --Bob



Well I am just going to use HDMI for now. Oppo Blu-ray looks great. Great sound. Better sound than the Panasonic BD55 even though both did Lossless internally. I think the more rigid construction and the ability to use a better after market Power cord allows it to sound better! And it does 5.1 PCM through HDMI on Standard DVDs. Plus 24fps on standard DVDs. I looked at the standard DVDs of The Incredibles and Star Wars the Empire Strikes back. Both looked and sounded better than on the the other blu-ray player I had(Panasonic BD55). Of course Blu-ray looks great on both of them.
















Thanks for your help Bob. I just wasn't forcing the resolution correctly on the Anthem. I am not sure why it went to 720P when I rebooted but it did.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

On the D2v, these are the settings I'm currently using with the Oppo BDP-83:


Explicit selection of 1080p output resolution. NOTE: It doesn't matter whether your display is 1080p or not.

HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 (just recently switched to this -- 4:4:4 may work better using other displays or using the D2 vs. the D2v). NOTE: The output data format to your display can be different.

HDMI Deep Color 30-bit (Dithered) (use OFF (Dithered) for the D2). NOTE: Some D2v users may find 36-bit works better with their display.

1080p/24 Auto. NOTE: It doesn't matter whether your display accepts 1080p/24 or not -- this is INPUT to the Anthem.

DVD/24 OFF (recommend you leave this OFF normally and turn it on to see how well it is working with better made DVDs -- turn it OFF at the first sign of problems, which would mean the DVD is not that well made)

Primary Output HDMI

16:9 Wide/Auto

TV System Multi

Picture settings all 0 -- the Oppo puts out "reference" signals this way

De-Interlacing Auto

Cue Correction Auto

A/V Sync 0


NOTE: The 16:9 Wide/Auto setting with explicit 1080p output will cause the Oppo to add pillar box bars to 4:3 content automatically -- either from SD-DVD or from SD "extras" on Blu-Ray. The Anthem will see all input as 16:9 and won't need to add pillar box bars itself.


Secondary Audio OFF (leave this OFF unless you absolutely have to turn it on to hear Picture in Picture style commentary tracks. Turning this ON means you won't get lossless audio!)

HDMI Audio Bitstream or LPCM -- your choice, as in most cases you will hear no differece. (For the D2 use LPCM) NOTES: Use LPCM for HDCD discs to get the greater dynamic range, and use Bitstream for SD-DVD DTS-ES discs to get the rear channel decoded.

SACD Output PCM Output > Frame Lock OFF to begin.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17325575
> 
> 
> Start with YCbCr 4:4:4 and get familiar with that. After you have everything set up as best you can, experiment with YCbCr 4:2:2 and see if you like that better. Be sure to recheck your setup when you switch formats.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Any reason for not just selecting "Auto"?


BTW, the replacement D2v is here.


Also, in the Oppos setup; Is the D2v compatible with DSD for SACD?


----------



## bluemark81

I've gone into both my Oppo and PS3 to change my audio output to bitstream. With the Oppo, everything seems to work fine. I get audio. However, no sound with the PS3. If I switch back to PCM, I get sound. I am using only an HDMI connection on both. Any ideas what's wrong?


Nevermind....got it working!


----------



## bluemark81

Still losing total audio at times with this new one too. When it happens, I have to power down and back up. Sometimes that works and other times, nothing.


There is something real fishy with the audio. When it works, I will have the Oppo set for Dolby and the Anthem is showing DTS. I'm confused!


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17306539
> 
> 
> Post your charts and your Targets window. Don't alter any of the Targets ARC has found for you except for Max EQ Frequency.
> 
> 
> Make sure you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON for every Source.
> 
> 
> After doing an ARC Upload, be careful not to alter any of the settings ARC has placed in the Setup menu. Save User and Installer Settings to capture the changes ARC has made in Setup into those memories so that you don't accidentally undo them.
> 
> 
> Double check the polarity of all your main speakers -- i.e., whether the main speakers are in phase with each other or you have some wires swapped. Having wires swapped on one or more speakers will dramatically screw up your audio imaging/focus.
> 
> 
> If you make any changes there recheck the Polarity/Phase of your Sub as well.
> 
> 
> The little Measured peak at 100Hz in the Sub curves from yesterday is no problem. ARC has corrected it.
> 
> --Bob




Ok, main speakers are fine and I have tweaked my sub,all sources have eq on, here are my results. Thanks in advance. John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17328023
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Any reason for not just selecting "Auto"?
> 
> 
> BTW, the replacement D2v is here.
> 
> 
> Also, in the Oppos setup; Is the D2v compatible with DSD for SACD?



Selecting Auto for what? I specified a few cases where Auto is better.


Use PCM for SACD. The Anthems don't do DSD and making the player discover that can cause problems with some discs.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17328234
> 
> 
> Still losing total audio at times with this new one too. When it happens, I have to power down and back up. Sometimes that works and other times, nothing.
> 
> 
> There is something real fishy with the audio. When it works, I will have the Oppo set for Dolby and the Anthem is showing DTS. I'm confused!



TURN OFF SECONDARY AUDIO IN THE OPPO!


You have it re-encoding into DTS to enable audio mixing!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17328276
> 
> 
> Ok, main speakers are fine and I have tweaked my sub,all sources have eq on, here are my results. Thanks in advance. John



That Targets window you posted is not right. You have to Open your ARC results file before viewing its Targets.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17328276
> 
> 
> Ok, main speakers are fine and I have tweaked my sub,all sources have eq on, here are my results. Thanks in advance. John



Targets aside, the only problem in these charts is the dip at 10KHz. I'm going to guess that is due to the type of speaker grill covering you have, although some of it might be due to speaker pointing. Try raising Max EQ Frequency in Targets, perhaps all the way up to 20KHz to see how much of that ARC can correct for you.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17328324
> 
> 
> Selecting Auto for what? I specified a few cases where Auto is better.
> 
> 
> Use PCM for SACD. The Anthems don't do DSD and making the player discover that can cause problems with some discs.
> 
> --Bob



Sorry Bob: Auto for data in the video out config of the D2v.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17328336
> 
> 
> TURN OFF SECONDARY AUDIO IN THE OPPO!
> 
> 
> You have it re-encoding into DTS to enable audio mixing!
> 
> --Bob



I turned secondary audio off, now I get no sound anywhere, regardless of source. I know, makes no sense, but when I turn everything off and back on, I get sound. If I switch sources, it is hit and miss whether sound remains or not.


I'm trying a blu-ray and getting digital 5.1. I tried changing to True HD, and sound stops. I turn off and back on and True HD works.


If I physically select Dolby True HD from a disc when playing the PS3, the Anthem shows Dolby Digital, not Dolby HD although it does produce sound. Switching back to my Satellite souce, I'm without sound again.




Bob:


Could this have anything to do with copying my AVM50 settings to this unit?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17328608
> 
> 
> I turned secondary audio off, now I get no sound anywhere, regardless of source. I know, makes no sense, but when I turn everything off and back on, I get sound. If I switch sources, it is hit and miss whether sound remains or not.
> 
> 
> I'm trying a blu-ray and getting digital 5.1. I tried changing to True HD, and sound stops. I turn off and back on and True HD works.
> 
> 
> If I physically select Dolby True HD from a disc when playing the PS3, the Anthem shows Dolby Digital, not Dolby HD although it does produce sound. Switching back to my Satellite souce, I'm without sound again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Could this have anything to do with copying my AVM50 settings to this unit?



No, but it could be your HDMI cable is not up to snuff for Deep Color with 36-bit video.


Check the Oppo settings I gave in the post above.


Check that you have the latest Oppo firmware (version numbers for all 3 parts -- see their Support page -- the main firmware should be 0925). In the Oppo, Setup > Device Setup > Firmware Information.


Check which version of the D2v firmware you have. It should be V2.07.


Try using 1080i output from the Oppo with Deep Color OFF. If that works then your HDMI cable is likely the culprit.


Try both HDMI LPCM and HDMI Bitstream output from the Oppo.


Make sure you have Primary Output HDMI set in the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17328564
> 
> 
> Sorry Bob: Auto for data in the video out config of the D2v.



Auto simply gives you what the display says it wants. Often that is not the best setting for the display but just something they think will work easily with other hardware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You might as well also Reload Factory Defaults in the D2v and then make just the minimum number of settings changes to get audio and video from the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17328608
> 
> 
> If I physically select Dolby True HD from a disc when playing the PS3, the Anthem shows Dolby Digital, not Dolby HD although it does produce sound. Switching back to my Satellite souce, I'm without sound again.



I thought that the PS3 was not an HDMI 1.3 and could never send bitstream HD audio to the Anthem. Is is a new version of PS3 ?

The best it could do was to send decoded LPCM and if you did not ask it to decode it will send the compatible Dolby Digital extracted from the Dolby HD.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17328803
> 
> 
> No, but it could be your HDMI cable is not up to snuff for Deep Color with 36-bit video.
> 
> 
> Check the Oppo settings I gave in the post above.
> 
> 
> Check that you have the latest Oppo firmware (version numbers for all 3 parts -- see their Support page -- the main firmware should be 0925). In the Oppo, Setup > Device Setup > Firmware Information.
> 
> 
> Check which version of the D2v firmware you have. It should be V2.07.
> 
> 
> Try using 1080i output from the Oppo with Deep Color OFF. If that works then your HDMI cable is likely the culprit.
> 
> 
> Try both HDMI LPCM and HDMI Bitstream output from the Oppo.
> 
> 
> Make sure you have Primary Output HDMI set in the Oppo.
> 
> --Bob



Tried all of the above Bob, and still losing audio when I switch sources. Latest versions are installed. The only way I seem to be able to get it back is to shut down and back on.


----------



## bluemark81

Bob:


If I cycle through the Oppos resolution output, at times the audio will disappear which makes me think it is a resolution issue effecting the audio. However, why is my Satellite sound also effected which is simply carrying 720p. I never had issues of this type with my AVM.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17327901
> 
> 
> On the D2v, these are the settings I'm currently using with the Oppo BDP-83:
> 
> 
> Explicit selection of 1080p output resolution. NOTE: It doesn't matter whether your display is 1080p or not.
> 
> HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 (just recently switched to this -- 4:4:4 may work better using other displays or using the D2 vs. the D2v). NOTE: The output data format to your display can be different.
> 
> HDMI Deep Color 30-bit (Dithered) (use OFF (Dithered) for the D2). NOTE: Some D2v users may find 36-bit works better with their display.
> 
> 1080p/24 Auto. NOTE: It doesn't matter whether your display accepts 1080p/24 or not -- this is INPUT to the Anthem.
> 
> DVD/24 OFF (recommend you leave this OFF normally and turn it on to see how well it is working with better made DVDs -- turn it OFF at the first sign of problems, which would mean the DVD is not that well made)
> 
> Primary Output HDMI
> 
> 16:9 Wide/Auto
> 
> TV System Multi
> 
> Picture settings all 0 -- the Oppo puts out "reference" signals this way
> 
> De-Interlacing Auto
> 
> Cue Correction Auto
> 
> A/V Sync 0
> 
> 
> NOTE: The 16:9 Wide/Auto setting with explicit 1080p output will cause the Oppo to add pillar box bars to 4:3 content automatically -- either from SD-DVD or from SD "extras" on Blu-Ray. The Anthem will see all input as 16:9 and won't need to add pillar box bars itself.
> 
> 
> Secondary Audio OFF (leave this OFF unless you absolutely have to turn it on to hear Picture in Picture style commentary tracks. Turning this ON means you won't get lossless audio!)
> 
> HDMI Audio Bitstream or LPCM -- your choice, as in most cases you will hear no differece. (For the D2 use LPCM) NOTES: Use LPCM for HDCD discs to get the greater dynamic range, and use Bitstream for SD-DVD DTS-ES discs to get the rear channel decoded.
> 
> SACD Output PCM Output > Frame Lock OFF to begin.
> 
> --Bob



I tried source direct which gave me a better picture with Blu-ray. But it is outputting 24fps on standard DVD on source direct even when I don't want that. I Can tell as the Panasonic HDTV is allowing me to do 96hz at 24fps and it won't if it doesn't see 24fps. This can lead to some odd movement on DVD. I understood source direct is what I wanted to use. But maybe I should go back to Auto for Standard DVDs?


----------



## bluemark81

Still experiencing all kinds of audio issues with each source: Oppo blu-ray, Bell HD satellite, Wadia iTransport, PS3 and bel canto cd player. I'm not convinced it is HDMI related where it even occurs with sources not connected via HDMI.


On a side note, should the PS3 be set for bitstream or pcm?


Also, in menu 9 of the D2v, ADC/Audio Out, what should a and b be set to?


Thanks


----------



## obie_fl

Unless you have one of the new "slimline" PS3's use PCM for BD.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17330181
> 
> 
> Still experiencing all kinds of audio issues with each source: Oppo blu-ray, Bell HD satellite, Wadia iTransport, PS3 and bel canto cd player. I'm not convinced it is HDMI related where it even occurs with sources not connected via HDMI.
> 
> 
> On a side note, should the PS3 be set for bitstream or pcm?
> 
> 
> Also, in menu 9 of the D2v, ADC/Audio Out, what should a and b be set to?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Sounds to me like what I had happening when I first got my D2v, my HDMI out to my 65" Panny Plasma had a cable that was not up to snuff, I changed out - still had a few issues after that until I made sure the HDMI connector was aligned properly and had no cable weight strain on it.... no problems since...


HDMI still plays a roll on audio, even if your not using the audio at the end of the run....



Just sayin


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17330321
> 
> 
> Unless you have one of the new "slimline" PS3's use PCM for BD.



PCM even though I'm using the D2v?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17330454
> 
> 
> Sounds to me like what I had happening when I first got my D2v, my HDMI out to my 65" Panny Plasma had a cable that was not up to snuff, I changed out - still had a few issues after that until I made sure the HDMI connector was aligned properly and had no cable weight strain on it.... no problems since...
> 
> 
> HDMI still plays a roll on audio, even if your not using the audio at the end of the run....
> 
> 
> 
> Just sayin



Geeze, I used the exact same hdmi cables, sources and connections with my AVM50 and never experienced issues like this. And I thought I had relatively good cables without breaking the bank.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17330575
> 
> 
> Geeze, I used the exact same hdmi cables, sources and connections with my AVM50 and never experienced issues like this. And I thought I had relatively good cables without breaking the bank.



The D2 is an HDMI V1.1 device without Deep Color support or Bitstreaming. It supports 5.1 96KHz audio.


The D2v is an HDMI V1.3 device with Deep Color support and Bitstreaming. It supports 7.1 192KHz audio. That puts much greater demands on cable quality. With the D2v you want to use HDMI cables that are labeled as HDMI V1.3 "for 1080p", or "high speed", or "category 2" which all mean the same thing: That the cable has been designed and manufactured in accordance with the newest, strictest HDMI cable specifications. Other HDMI cables MAY work -- the wires and pinouts haven't changed. But it depends more on the luck of how well built and tested they are.


HDMI is an end-to-end protocol so the problem may be in the cable to your display. Since you are having problems with multiple source devices that's more likely.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17330568
> 
> 
> PCM even though I'm using the D2v?



The original PS3 models don't support Bitstream output of the lossless audio formats. If you select HDMI Bitstream output you will force the PS3 to use only the lossy "associated" or "core" compatibility audio track which is also found on each disc -- traditional DD5.1 or DTS5.1.


The new PS3 Slim adds HDMI Bitstream output for TrueHD and DTS-HD MA, but with some limitations as regards audio-mixing.


Use HDMI LPCM output from the PS3.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17330181
> 
> 
> Also, in menu 9 of the D2v, ADC/Audio Out, what should a and b be set to?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Leave those at the factory default settings (see the picture in the manual) at least until you get your other audio issues resolved.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17330796
> 
> 
> The D2 is an HDMI V1.1 device without Deep Color support or Bitstreaming. It supports 5.1 96KHz audio.
> 
> 
> The D2v is an HDMI V1.3 device with Deep Color support and Bitstreaming. It supports 7.1 192KHz audio. That puts much greater demands on cable quality. With the D2v you want to use HDMI cables that are labeled as HDMI V1.3 "for 1080p", or "high speed", or "category 2" which all mean the same thing: That the cable has been designed and manufactured in accordance with the newest, strictest HDMI cable specifications. Other HDMI cables MAY work -- the wires and pinouts haven't changed. But it depends more on the luck of how well built and tested they are.
> 
> 
> HDMI is an end-to-end protocol so the problem may be in the cable to your display. Since you are having problems with multiple source devices that's more likely.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


This is the cable I'm using to the TV:

http://www.onlybestrated.com/hdmi-go...ble-p-120.html 


It does not appear to be sufficient does it?


Does the one that came with the Oppo support everything?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17329661
> 
> 
> I tried source direct which gave me a better picture with Blu-ray. But it is outputting 24fps on standard DVD on source direct even when I don't want that. I Can tell as the Panasonic HDTV is allowing me to do 96hz at 24fps and it won't if it doesn't see 24fps. This can lead to some odd movement on DVD. I understood source direct is what I wanted to use. But maybe I should go back to Auto for Standard DVDs?



When playing SD-DVDs, Source Direct from the Oppo will send 480i/59.94 to the D2v. It will never send /24. You can confirm this by pressing Select several times on the D2v remote to see the video input format or by pressing "7" until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up and then scrolling right to the Info panel.


Instead, what's actually happening is that you have your D2v set to send 1080p/24 video output to your display. So it is trying to do the conversion, and that won't always work.


You have two choices:


(1) Set up two Video Output configurations in the D2v -- one for 1080p/60 and one for 1080p/24. Select between them manually using the shortcut on the remote or set up separate Source definitions both using the Oppo -- one for 1080p/24 Blu-Ray and one for either SD-DVD or 1080i/24 Blu-ray each set to use the correct Video Output configuration in the D2v. NOTE: Some Blu-Ray discs -- live concert discs for example -- will be 1080i/60 and they too should not be converted to 1080p/24.


(2) Use just your 1080p/24 Video Output configuration in the D2v but turn on Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock for the Oppo Source. When the Oppo sends /60 video to the D2v (either SD-DVD or 1080i/60 Blu-Ray) the Frame Lock feature will switch your D2v video output to 1080p/60. Expect the HDMI handshake to take a little longer. You will still need a separate 1080p/60 Video Output configuration for use with other Sources. NOTE: If you use Frame Lock, the D2v will attempt to convert SD-DVD input to 1080p/24 output if it detects the SD-DVD input is "film based". This will work with better SD-DVDs. But if you see problems you will still need to manually switch to your 1080p/60 Video Output configuration. This is very similar to how you would use DVD/24 in the Oppo when not using Source Direct.


---------------------------------------------------


What sort of differences are you seeing when playing Blu-Ray using Source Direct that make it look better? Setting the Oppo to 1080p output should look identical unless you have made some other setup error.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17330839
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> This is the cable I'm using to the TV:
> 
> http://www.onlybestrated.com/hdmi-go...ble-p-120.html
> 
> 
> It does not appear to be sufficient does it?
> 
> 
> Does the one that came with the Oppo support everything?



The one that comes with the Oppo is fine.


I'm not sure about the cable you cited. It says 1080p but it also says 24 bit video (instead of 36 bit for Deep Color).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17329368
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> If I cycle through the Oppos resolution output, at times the audio will disappear which makes me think it is a resolution issue effecting the audio. However, why is my Satellite sound also effected which is simply carrying 720p. I never had issues of this type with my AVM.



I think you should tackle one problem at at time.


The Oppo has a modern HDMI implementation which has been well tested with the D2v. Get that working first.


Your Satellite box may have any number of HDMI problems when connected to an HDMI V1.3 processor. We've talked about all sorts of cases of that here. I suggest you consider using Component video and Optical Digital audio from your Satellite box to eliminate the possibility that its HDMI may not be up to snuff.


----------------------------------------


The "test" V2.07f firmware for the D2v has improved HDMI, but you should work through cable possibilities FIRST, and then talk to Anthem before considering installing it. I'm using V2.07f myself. Some folks with 7.1 speaker setups have reported problems here with V2.07f and have gone back to V2.07. There's also a V2.07g version that has, by my testing, severe audio problems so I don't recommend that one at all.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17330839
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> This is the cable I'm using to the TV:
> 
> http://www.onlybestrated.com/hdmi-go...ble-p-120.html
> 
> 
> It does not appear to be sufficient does it?
> 
> 
> Does the one that came with the Oppo support everything?



As Bob stated as well, I'll put money on it that is your problem, or at least a good a part of them....


Here is a good one that is quite in-expensive IMO
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17328351
> 
> 
> That Targets window you posted is not right. You have to Open your ARC results file before viewing its Targets.
> 
> --Bob



Oops, here ya go.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17330969
> 
> 
> Oops, here ya go.



I see no additional issues in there. Try raising Max EQ Frequency and let's see how much of your high frequency problem remains. You can do this without having to re-Measure.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17331272
> 
> 
> I see no additional issues in there. Try raising Max EQ Frequency and let's see how much of your high frequency problem remains. You can do this without having to re-Measure.
> 
> --Bob




I changed to 20KHz, calculated and uploaded. If I run ARC again to see the difference will it not change my settings?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17331525
> 
> 
> I changed to 20KHz, calculated and uploaded. If I run ARC again to see the difference will it not change my settings?



I'm not sure what you mean.


When you open an existing ARC results file, change Targets, re-Calculate and re-Upload that loads a new solution into your Anthem. You can listen to it right then and there. No need to re-Measure.


When you re-Measure, ARC first disables the current ARC setup in the Anthem, takes new raw (uncorrected) Measurements, and determines a new solution (first picking Targets based on these newest Measurements, and then doing a Calculation trying to hit those Targets). If you want to modify ARC's choice of Targets -- as for example raising Max EQ Frequency -- you need to do that after those Measurements and re-Calculate.


One of the advantages of running ARC in "Advanced" mode is that you get to decide when Calculation and when Uploading happen. So for example you don't have to wait for an Upload to complete after a set of Measurements and before you can get in and alter the Targets the way you want. And you can do several different Calculations with different Targets before finally settling on one you want to Upload to listen to.

---Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17330899
> 
> 
> I think you should tackle one problem at at time.
> 
> 
> The Oppo has a modern HDMI implementation which has been well tested with the D2v. Get that working first.
> 
> 
> Your Satellite box may have any number of HDMI problems when connected to an HDMI V1.3 processor. We've talked about all sorts of cases of that here. I suggest you consider using Component video and Optical Digital audio from your Satellite box to eliminate the possibility that its HDMI may not be up to snuff.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The "test" V2.07f firmware for the D2v has improved HDMI, but you should work through cable possibilities FIRST, and then talk to Anthem before considering installing it. I'm using V2.07f myself. Some folks with 7.1 speaker setups have reported problems here with V2.07f and have gone back to V2.07. There's also a V2.07g version that has, by my testing, severe audio problems so I don't recommend that one at all.
> 
> --Bob



Thats what I've been attempting but no such luck yet. I've purchased new HDMI cables today and rewired everything. I've tried one component at a time. My Oppo and TV are now the only two HDMI devices connected. The PS3 is disconnected from my setup and my satellite receiver is connected via component and optical. When I switch between the two, I still lose total audio at times. Not everytime, but still very frequently. When I lose audio, I power the Anthem down and back on and generally the sound will come back. At this point, I'm not sure what to try, but open to more suggestions.


I do have a question regarding HDMI cables. The most expensive I could find were Monster Cables which I hate to buy, but their best ones indicate 12 bit color. I couldn't find anything even suggesting anything higher other than the ones I was previously using that says 24 bit color. What are others using to avoid these issues?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17331620
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean.
> 
> 
> When you open an existing ARC results file, change Targets, re-Calculate and re-Upload that loads a new solution into your Anthem. You can listen to it right then and there. No need to re-Measure.
> 
> 
> When you re-Measure, ARC first disables the current ARC setup in the Anthem, takes new raw (uncorrected) Measurements, and determines a new solution (first picking Targets based on these newest Measurements, and then doing a Calculation trying to hit those Targets). If you want to modify ARC's choice of Targets -- as for example raising Max EQ Frequency -- you need to do that after those Measurements and re-Calculate.
> 
> 
> One of the advantages of running ARC in "Advanced" mode is that you get to decide when Calculation and when Uploading happen. So for example you don't have to wait for an Upload to complete after a set of Measurements and before you can get in and alter the Targets the way you want. And you can do several different Calculations with different Targets before finally settling on one you want to Upload to listen to.
> 
> ---Bob



Can you see the results of the change to 20KHz on the graph somewhere to see if it fixed the dip at 10k?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17331708
> 
> 
> I do have a question regarding HDMI cables. The most expensive I could find were Monster Cables which I hate to buy, but their best ones indicate 12 bit color. I couldn't find anything even suggesting anything higher other than the ones I was previously using that says 24 bit color. What are others using to avoid these issues?



The terminology is confusing. 12 bit color (Deep Color) means 12 bits for each of the 3 components -- 36 bits per pixel. "Normal" color is 8 bits per component -- 24 bits per pixel.


I've been using Blue Jeans cables with good success. Others here are using MonoPrice cables. There's definitely no need to pay the ridiculous price premium for the Monster cables.


It is also very important to make sure the plugs are fully inserted straight into the sockets with nothing pushing or tugging the plug in any direction (e.g., weight of the cable). The plugs are only friction fit and even a slight shift in the socket will make the connection marginal.


----------------------------------------------


There is a known bug in V2.07 which will cause loss of audio from time to time on power up. I've only known it to fail on power up -- not when switching between sources. The workaround is to switch to a different input and back. This bug appears fixed in "test" V2.07f.


---------------------------------------------


Are you leaving the display on all the time while trying this or are you also turning the display on and off as you change sources? Keep things simple and leave the display on.


---------------------------------------------


Another test is to turn off the display *AND* disconnect it's HDMI from the D2v. Then try your Source switching without the display. If you don't get loss of audio when doing that, then you can be pretty certain the problem is either the cable to the display or the HDMI in the display.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17331719
> 
> 
> Can you see the results of the change to 20KHz on the graph somewhere to see if it fixed the dip at 10k?



Sure. If you've done the change correctly the green Calculated curves should show correction above 5KHz on the charts. I.e., the difference between the green Calculated curves and the dashed black Targets curves will be smaller than the difference to the red Measured curves.


ARC will only attempt about 6dB of correction to keep from stressing out the speakers and amps, but that should still be easy to see (and hear). If ARC is doing a lot of correction in bass, telling it to do work at the high frequencies may have the side effect of reducing the cleanness of its results in bass -- that will show as wobbles in the green curves. You can back off Max EQ Frequency to try to find a nice compromise.


To reiterate: Open your existing ARC results file in ARC's Advanced mode. Go into Targets. Change Max EQ Frequency (for Music as well if you are actually using that). Accept that change -- which also dismisses the Targets window. Your charts will no longer show the green curves. Do a Calculation. Your charts will now show the new green curves. If you like what you see, do an Upload.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17331806
> 
> 
> Sure. If you've done the change correctly the green Calculated curves should show correction above 5KHz on the charts. I.e., the difference between the green Calculated curves and the dashed black Targets curves will be smaller than the difference to the red Measured curves.
> 
> 
> ARC will only attempt about 6dB of correction to keep from stressing out the speakers and amps, but that should still be easy to see (and hear). If ARC is doing a lot of correction in bass, telling it to do work at the high frequencies may have the side effect of reducing the cleanness of its results in bass -- that will show as wobbles in the green curves. You can back off Max EQ Frequency to try to find a nice compromise.
> 
> 
> To reiterate: Open your existing ARC results file in ARC's Advanced mode. Go into Targets. Change Max EQ Frequency (for Music as well if you are actually using that). Accept that change -- which also dismisses the Targets window. Your charts will no longer show the green curves. Do a Calculation. Your charts will now show the new green curves. If you like what you see, do an Upload.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the help, big change in sound for the better. Maybe a little bright but I now know how to adjust.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17331932
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help, big change in sound for the better. Maybe a little bright but I now know how to adjust.



Getting closer. Now you need to try to get a few dB improvement up there in the red Measured curves so ARC can fully correct the rest of the way.


Start by double checking your speaker pointing as treble is quite directional. If your speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing.


The problem you are showing at 10KHz can also happen with some types of speaker grill and grill mounting hardware. It doesn't look to me like you have any broken drivers, but it's easy to check. Play a CD with treble using Stereo All audio mode and put your ear up close to each tweeter in each speaker in turn to verify they are producing sound. Might as well check the mid-range drivers at the same time.


Some speakers have treble response settings. Check that as well.


You only need to get a few dB improvement in the Measured results up there. You will, of course, need to re-Measure if you make any speaker changes.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17331788
> 
> 
> The terminology is confusing. 12 bit color (Deep Color) means 12 bits for each of the 3 components -- 36 bits per pixel. "Normal" color is 8 bits per component -- 24 bits per pixel.
> 
> 
> I've been using Blue Jeans cables with good success. Others here are using MonoPrice cables. There's definitely no need to pay the ridiculous price premium for the Monster cables.
> 
> 
> It is also very important to make sure the plugs are fully inserted straight into the sockets with nothing pushing or tugging the plug in any direction (e.g., weight of the cable). The plugs are only friction fit and even a slight shift in the socket will make the connection marginal.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> There is a known bug in V2.07 which will cause loss of audio from time to time on power up. I've only known it to fail on power up -- not when switching between sources. The workaround is to switch to a different input and back. This bug appears fixed in "test" V2.07f.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Are you leaving the display on all the time while trying this or are you also turning the display on and off as you change sources? Keep things simple and leave the display on.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Another test is to turn off the display *AND* disconnect it's HDMI from the D2v. Then try your Source switching without the display. If you don't get loss of audio when doing that, then you can be pretty certain the problem is either the cable to the display or the HDMI in the display.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Thanks for the color bit explanation.


I've double checked my HDMI connections and unless there is damage within the socket, they seem to be fitting fine.


I was powering everything down and also tried just powering the Anthem down. When I switch between sources, the display remains on.


I did try disconnecting the TV's HDMI from the Anthem and switch between sources and I still get a loss of audio. So, when the TV is disconnected, the only souce that is connected via HDMI is the Oppo.


And, I've tried different HDMI cables between the Oppo and Anthem.


I don't really know what to try next.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17332169
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the color bit explanation.
> 
> 
> I've double checked my HDMI connections and unless there is damage within the socket, they seem to be fitting fine.
> 
> 
> I was powering everything down and also tried just powering the Anthem down. When I switch between sources, the display remains on.
> 
> 
> I did try disconnecting the TV's HDMI from the Anthem and switch between sources and I still get a loss of audio. So, when the TV is disconnected, the only souce that is connected via HDMI is the Oppo.
> 
> 
> And, I've tried different HDMI cables between the Oppo and Anthem.
> 
> 
> I don't really know what to try next.



Using the Oppo only, what shows in its on-screen info display for audio type when you are losing audio (lower left corner)? What disc are you using to check audio?


In the Anthem, what shows for input audio type and input channels active when you lose audio? What shows for input video resolution when you lose audio? Press Select several times to get this information.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17332169
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the color bit explanation.
> 
> 
> I've double checked my HDMI connections and unless there is damage within the socket, they seem to be fitting fine.
> 
> 
> I was powering everything down and also tried just powering the Anthem down. When I switch between sources, the display remains on.
> 
> 
> I did try disconnecting the TV's HDMI from the Anthem and switch between sources and I still get a loss of audio. So, when the TV is disconnected, the only souce that is connected via HDMI is the Oppo.
> 
> 
> And, I've tried different HDMI cables between the Oppo and Anthem.
> 
> 
> I don't really know what to try next.



I'm sure we are all feeling your frustration!!


I don't want to confuse things as Bob is doing a great job in stepping you through this stuff, and I agree that stripping everything back to one source one cable is the way to troubleshoot.


I wonder though, with all the talk of HDMI issues, if your Sat box with Component/Optical is giving you the same issues (with all HDMI cables out). That test would at least suggest if it was HDMI cable or D2V related.


I would also be playing with a simple analog source to confirm the D2V was able to output something to an amp.


Doing an ARC run may also be an idea just to see if it can pump out those test tones consistently.


But Bob is driving this one......keep it simple.......!!


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17332249
> 
> 
> Using the Oppo only, what shows in its on-screen info display for audio type when you are losing audio (lower left corner)? What disc are you using to check audio?



M.CH shows on the Oppo. Also shows True HD, HDMI, TT/GRP, BD. I've tried I am Legend, The Hulk and Kung Fu Panda. I did try Casino Royale as well, but forget the results.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17332249
> 
> 
> In the Anthem, what shows for input audio type and input channels active when you lose audio?



The Anthems display shows Dolby True HD, 5.1 +PLIIx. If I push the select repeatedly, this additional info appears: 48 kHz CP, 24/192



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17332249
> 
> 
> What shows for input video resolution when you lose audio? Press Select several times to get this information.
> 
> --Bob



1920 x 1080p/23.98 CP


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/17332317
> 
> 
> I'm sure we are all feeling your frustration!!
> 
> 
> I don't want to confuse things as Bob is doing a great job in stepping you through this stuff, and I agree that stripping everything back to one source one cable is the way to troubleshoot.
> 
> 
> I wonder though, with all the talk of HDMI issues, if your Sat box with Component/Optical is giving you the same issues (with all HDMI cables out). That test would at least suggest if it was HDMI cable or D2V related.
> 
> 
> I would also be playing with a simple analog source to confirm the D2V was able to output something to an amp.
> 
> 
> Doing an ARC run may also be an idea just to see if it can pump out those test tones consistently.
> 
> 
> But Bob is driving this one......keep it simple.......!!



Thanks. My CD player is hooked up using XLR analog and I don't even get audio through it when it decides to drop.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17331996
> 
> 
> Getting closer. Now you need to try to get a few dB improvement up there in the red Measured curves so ARC can fully correct the rest of the way.
> 
> 
> Start by double checking your speaker pointing as treble is quite directional. If your speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing.
> 
> 
> The problem you are showing at 10KHz can also happen with some types of speaker grill and grill mounting hardware. It doesn't look to me like you have any broken drivers, but it's easy to check. Play a CD with treble using Stereo All audio mode and put your ear up close to each tweeter in each speaker in turn to verify they are producing sound. Might as well check the mid-range drivers at the same time.
> 
> 
> Some speakers have treble response settings. Check that as well.
> 
> 
> You only need to get a few dB improvement in the Measured results up there. You will, of course, need to re-Measure if you make any speaker changes.




Ok, I adjusted all speakers to point directly at my seat, took all grills off and yes all tweeters and mids are fine. I re ran ARC and changed my max EQ to 15000 because 20000 was a little bright. When you run ARC is the EQ always set at 5000 then you adjust after and calculate? And what do you think, am I done? PS; Not that I won't continue to tinker, it's interesting.


Thanks again for your time and patience.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Set the Oppo to 1080i output resolution. Set HDMI Color Space YCbCr 4:4:4. Set HDMI Deep Color to OFF. Confirm that Primary Output is HDMI. Set HDMI Bitstream for audio.


In the Anthem set Video Output to 1080i/60. Specify an explicit video output data format -- typically YCbCr 4:4:4. Confirm that Setup > Video Output > Preferred = HDMI.


In Setup > Source Setup for the Oppo input, select the Video Output configuration which specifies 1080i. Confirm that Auto Dig = OFF. Confirm that Audio In = Dig HDMI. Confirm that Bass MGR = Movie.


In Setup > Mode Presets for the Oppo input, set each entry to the factory default setting. See the picture in Section 3.7 of the Manual.


Try the Oppo audio again. The settings above simplify the HDMI. Use the Oppo remote and the D2v remote (not any 3rd party programmable remote you might normally use).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17332435
> 
> 
> Ok, I adjusted all speakers to point directly at my seat, took all grills off and yes all tweeters and mids are fine. I re ran ARC and changed my max EQ to 15000 because 20000 was a little bright. When you run ARC is the EQ always set at 5000 then you adjust after and calculate? And what do you think, am I done? PS; Not that I won't continue to tinker, it's interesting.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your time and patience.



ARC always defaults to cutting off correction at 5KHz to make sure resources are available for bass correction and because measuring treble is inherently difficult due to directionality and other reasons. So yes, you need to adjust each time as seems to work best.


You don't want your LF/RF speakers pointing directly at the center seating position. The rule of thumb that seems to work best is to swing them around only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular to the screen towards the center seating position.


I don't see that much difference between these charts and the prior set, but in the high frequencies you should definitely trust your ears. if the 15KHz setting sounds better then it IS better regardless of the charts.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17332471
> 
> 
> Set the Oppo to 1080i output resolution. Set HDMI Color Space YCbCr 4:4:4. Set HDMI Deep Color to OFF. Confirm that Primary Output is HDMI. Set HDMI Bitstream for audio.
> 
> 
> In the Anthem set Video Output to 1080i/60. Specify an explicit video output data format -- typically YCbCr 4:4:4. Confirm that Setup > Video Output > Preferred = HDMI.
> 
> 
> In Setup > Source Setup for the Oppo input, select the Video Output configuration which specifies 1080i. Confirm that Auto Dig = OFF. Confirm that Audio In = Dig HDMI. Confirm that Bass MGR = Movie.
> 
> 
> In Setup > Mode Presets for the Oppo input, set each entry to the factory default setting. See the picture in Section 3.7 of the Manual.
> 
> 
> Try the Oppo audio again. The settings above simplify the HDMI. Use the Oppo remote and the D2v remote (not any 3rd party programmable remote you might normally use).
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I went through those changes and as soon as I backed out of the Anthems menu, I lost audio.


I then switched to my Satellite and still no audio.


I powered off and back on and audio for Satellite was there. I then switched to the Oppo and audio is gone.


Anthem is showing a 1080i input, Dolby True HD, 48 kHz and 1080i output, yet no sound.


Powered the Anthem off and back on and there is sound.


Tried switching back to Satellite and still no sound. Off, then on and sound is back.


whew!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17332554
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I went through those changes and as soon as I backed out of the Anthems menu, I lost audio.
> 
> 
> I then switched to my Satellite and still no audio.
> 
> 
> I powered off and back on and audio for Satellite was there. I then switched to the Oppo and audio is gone.
> 
> 
> Anthem is showing a 1080i input, Dolby True HD, 48 kHz and 1080i output, yet no sound.
> 
> 
> Powered the Anthem off and back on and there is sound.
> 
> 
> Tried switching back to Satellite and still no sound. Off, then on and sound is back.
> 
> 
> whew!



I'd like you to stick to just using the Oppo for now. I don't know enough about your Satellite box to add that to the mix.


Just see if you can get reliable Oppo audio (TrueHD and DTS-HD MA) using the settings I specified in my last post.


Again -- report on what happens when JUST using the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17332578
> 
> 
> I'd like you to stick to just using the Oppo for now. I don't know enough about your Satellite box to add that to the mix.
> 
> 
> Just see if you can get reliable Oppo audio (TrueHD and DTS-HD MA) using the settings I specified in my last post.
> 
> 
> Again -- report on what happens when JUST using the Oppo.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Are you saying, disconnect the Satellite altogether? If so, how do I test it with no other source to switch between?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17332592
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Are you saying, disconnect the Satellite altogether? If so, how do I test it with no other source to switch between?



Perhaps I misunderstood. I thought you were saying earlier that you lost audio just moving between different audio input formats as would happen going through the menus and starting up a new disc on the Oppo?


If you need to switch to a different input to get it to fail, select any input that has nothing connected to it and back.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17332695
> 
> 
> Perhaps I misunderstood. I thought you were saying earlier that you lost audio just moving between different audio input formats as would happen going through the menus and starting up a new disc on the Oppo?



Bob:


That happens as well, so no, you understood correctly.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17332695
> 
> 
> If you need to switch to a different input to get it to fail, select any input that has nothing connected to it and back.
> 
> --Bob



Just so I understand, I don't have to disconnect the Satellite, just don't use it when switching?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If you can make it fail simply by switching between audio types while playing discs on the Oppo then just do that. Keep it simple.


I want to find out if the Oppo and the Anthem both report the correct audio details when this happens even though no audio output is happening. Again, use the settings I specified above to keep the HDMI signal simple.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17332799
> 
> 
> If you can make it fail simply by switching between audio types while playing discs on the Oppo then just do that. Keep it simple.



It does fail in doing this. Not all the time though, but almost always.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17332799
> 
> 
> I want to find out if the Oppo and the Anthem both report the correct audio details when this happens even though no audio output is happening. Again, use the settings I specified above to keep the HDMI signal simple.
> 
> --Bob



It appears as though all the audio details are correct when this occurs. Even though there is no sound, the Anthem appears as though it is sensing the proper signal. I will keep on trying to see if I get anything different.


We are currently watching a show recorded on the HD PVR and I am noticing a lot of audio dropouts. They only last a spit second though.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You'll need to pursue this with Anthem tech support. They will likely ask you to reload the V2.07 firmware. They MAY ask you to load the "test" V2.07f firmware instead.


If the signal details are correct when you have no audio then the HDMI handshake is complete. It appears you have a problem with the audio signal detection in the DSP hardware. They may ask you to open the chassis and check whether a board connection came loose in shipping.


I suspect there is an easy fix here, but really you need to let them work this through with you.


Be sure to let them know that the audio problems exist -- unchanged in behavior -- when the display is turned off and HDMI to the display is disconnected. This eliminates a whole bunch of possible causes.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17332997
> 
> 
> You'll need to pursue this with Anthem tech support. They will likely ask you to reload the V2.07 firmware. They MAY ask you to load the "test" V2.07f firmware instead.
> 
> 
> If the signal details are correct when you have no audio then the HDMI handshake is complete. It appears you have a problem with the audio signal detection in the DSP hardware. They may ask you to open the chassis and check whether a board connection came loose in shipping.
> 
> 
> I suspect there is an easy fix here, but really you need to let them work this through with you.
> 
> 
> Be sure to let them know that the audio problems exist -- unchanged in behavior -- when the display is turned off and HDMI to the display is disconnected. This eliminates a whole bunch of possible causes.
> 
> --Bob



ok, thanks for your help anyway Bob.


----------



## flash2003

Just got my new ARC kit and attempted to first update the firmware on my D2from v1.21 to v1.33. I keep getting an error message indicating that the preamp cannot be found (also got this message when I tried to run the Live Video Settings Editor). I have tried 2 different serial cables, but this has not solved the problem. Device manager shows that the port is working properly (port's default is set to COM1). I did three previous firmware updates using the same setup, and never had this problem before; the only difference is that I recently reinstalled my operating system (Win XP home, SP3).


Can anyone susggest what I can try next? Thanks in advance.


----------



## bluemark81

Are these settings only for recording purposes and other zones?


Is there anywhere to specify the frequency output or is it always 192 kHz? I want to set things up to provide the best possible 2-ch audio. Are there any settings I should be aware of to do so?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flash2003* /forum/post/17333169
> 
> 
> Just got my new ARC kit and attempted to first update the firmware on my D2from v1.21 to v1.33. I keep getting an error message indicating that the preamp cannot be found (also got this message when I tried to run the Live Video Settings Editor). I have tried 2 different serial cables, but this has not solved the problem. Device manager shows that the port is working properly (port's default is set to COM1). I did three previous firmware updates using the same setup, and never had this problem before; the only difference is that I recently reinstalled my operating system (Win XP home, SP3).
> 
> 
> Can anyone susggest what I can try next? Thanks in advance.



This sounds like you have a system with a real serial port. If it's a USB to serial converter I'd wonder if the reinstall overwrote updated drivers for the converters. If you are using real serial ports I'd check the the port speed. The laptop i use with my D2 has the com port set for 9600, 8 data bits, none parity, 1 stop bit and no flow control.


----------



## flash2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/17333751
> 
> 
> This sounds like you have a system with a real serial port. If it's a USB to serial converter I'd wonder if the reinstall overwrote updated drivers for the converters. If you are using real serial ports I'd check the the port speed. The laptop i use with my D2 has the com port set for 9600, 8 data bits, none parity, 1 stop bit and no flow control.



Thanks for the reply Shrike645.


My desktop PC is older and it has a real serial port. I checked COM1 and the settings are 9600, 8 data bits, none parity, 1 stop bit and no flow control. I also checked for bent pins on the connectors but everything seems to be fine. Device Manager on the PC states that the device (COM1) is working properly. This is quite baffling as it worked perfectly before reinstallation of the OS.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flash2003* /forum/post/17334518
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply Shrike645.
> 
> 
> My desktop PC is older and it has a real serial port. I checked COM1 and the settings are 9600, 8 data bits, none parity, 1 stop bit and no flow control. I also checked for bent pins on the connectors but everything seems to be fine. Device Manager on the PC states that the device (COM1) is working properly. This is quite baffling as it worked perfectly before reinstallation of the OS.



Check the Setup > Trigger / IR / RS232 menu in the Anthem and make sure the RS232 settings are at factory default when using the serial port for firmware installs and ARC setup. See the picture in Section 3.11 of the Manual. Sometimes folks change these to work better with a theater control system that uses RS232.


Check Windows Device Manager to see if it is reporting any problems such as resource conflicts with other hardware and your serial port.


If you have a software firewall active in your Windows PC, try disabling it.


If that doesn't fix it for you, give Anthem tech support a call.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17333210
> 
> 
> Are these settings only for recording purposes and other zones?
> 
> 
> Is there anywhere to specify the frequency output or is it always 192 kHz? I want to set things up to provide the best possible 2-ch audio. Are there any settings I should be aware of to do so?



In the older D2 and AVM 50 units, raising the 2-channel sampling rate to 96KHz improved how the audio worked over the Main path at the expense of losing some audio surround modes. The input stereo audio was digitized at the higher rate. That explanation has been removed from the current D2v and AVM 50v manuals so I no longer know whether raising the rate to 96kHz does anything other than what is described -- controlling the output digital rate for the recorder output.


It probably wouldn't hurt to raise the 2-channel rate to 96KHz, but I don't know if that's actually necessary any longer.

--Bob


----------



## Mr. Foo

Any Anthem owner here pair their pre/pro with the Denon DVD-A1UDCI?


In particular, I was wondering what the experience was like using the analog outs of the player and how well it worked with ARC, and if you lose a lot fidelity-wise going back the digital domain for the ARC in the Anthem.


I have a AMV50 (non D2).


Thanks.


----------



## aramb

Some Dolby TrueHD encoded discs are not being properly recognized by my AVM50v. For example, August Rush is recognized properly (Dolby TrueHD LED is lit during playback). However, Hancock only plays back with the Dolby Digital LED indication. Do I have something set improperly? I am using a Panasonic DMP-BD80 blu ray player with version 2.07g in the AVM50v.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17336013
> 
> 
> Some Dolby TrueHD encoded discs are not being properly recognized by my AVM50v. For example, August Rush is recognized properly (Dolby TrueHD LED is lit during playback). However, Hancock only plays back with the Dolby Digital LED indication. Do I have something set improperly? I am using a Panasonic DMP-BD80 blu ray player with version 2.07g in the AVM50v.



Might seem a silly question, but have you verified the language selection when watching the movie? Not all movies default to the DD True HD format.


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17336248
> 
> 
> Might seem a silly question, but have you verified the language selection when watching the movie? Not all movies default to the DD True HD format.



Yes, I have verified this. I thought this same thing myself and went back and tried it on the problematic discs with the same result.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17336013
> 
> 
> Some Dolby TrueHD encoded discs are not being properly recognized by my AVM50v. For example, August Rush is recognized properly (Dolby TrueHD LED is lit during playback). However, Hancock only plays back with the Dolby Digital LED indication. Do I have something set improperly? I am using a Panasonic DMP-BD80 blu ray player with version 2.07g in the AVM50v.



Odds are you have secondary audio mixing turned on in the player for the discs that aren't working. When you do that you will probably get the "associated" DD5.1 track instead of the lossless TrueHD track. In many players this will happen even if you haven't actually selected a feature from the disc that generates secondary audio.


I presume you know that you have to select which audio track to play from each disc's on-disc menu. Some Blu-Ray discs with lossless tracks still default to playing their lossy track if you make no selection.


NOTE: This has to be a problem in the player. The DD5.1 and TrueHD bitstreams are different. If the AVM 50v got confused about which one was coming in as input it wouldn't decode it. It's not like DTS-HD MA where the "core" compatibility DTS 5.1 track is actually embedded inside the DTS-HD MA bitstream.


Press Select several times on the AVM 50v remote to get the details of what is coming in, just in case there is a bug where the correct track is coming in but the front panel light is not being turned on.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17336013
> 
> 
> Some Dolby TrueHD encoded discs are not being properly recognized by my AVM50v. For example, August Rush is recognized properly (Dolby TrueHD LED is lit during playback). However, Hancock only plays back with the Dolby Digital LED indication. Do I have something set improperly? I am using a Panasonic DMP-BD80 blu ray player with version 2.07g in the AVM50v.



Greetings,


aramb, I checked Hancock and it works properly with my Oppo/AVM50v. I also checked it with the Panasonic BD55 and it works properly. I am using 2.07 in my setup. With 2.07g there is no telling. I assume you tried switching inputs while the disc is playing to see if reads properly once it reacquires the handshake?


Bob, with the Panasonic units if secondary audio is turned on the lossless audio bitstreams will not work (period) regardless of what options there are present on the disc itself.



Regards,


----------



## bluemark81

Guys: I currently have a Velodyne DD15 and have an opportunity to get a JL Audio Fathom F113 but I have not had a chance to use one or hear one. I know some folks in here have the DD15 and possibly the F113 as well. Would there be any improvement in the F113 over the DD15?


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Ok I need your help please. I was changing video Configurations on my Anthem D2. I have Vid Config 1 set to 1080P60hz and had my directv and cable(I have both)to vid Config 1. It worked fine. I had my blu-ray set to vid config 2 which was 1080P 24fps. In talking to a friend he said try Auto on Vid Config 1 see how it looks. I did. Did not like as well. It was sending out 720P for some odd reason even to stations that were 1080i. I set it back to 1080P 60hz and the screen went black.(Panasonic 65V10) Now it has been working fine at that config. I rebooted. Still black screen. went to Blu-ray and got a picture(remember it is et to vid config 2) so I tried to reset video config 1. As soon as I moved the red bar to video config 1 from 2 in the menu it went to a black screen. It would not let me switch to my Blu-ray input (assigned to DVD1)So I rebooted Anthem, pulled AC plug from the back again. Plus I turned the TV off like I did before. Still black screen on Sat 1 and TV1, but I now can again access Blu-ray. Tried to go to video Config 3 so maybe I could assign Sat 1 and TV1 to that. Again black screen. Total reboot again. This time I went to reassign Sat 1 and TV 1 to video Config 2 which is 1080P 24 fps. I now get a picuter on my TV from Sat 1 and TV 1 but it of course has a judder to it because It is in 24fps. I am reluctant to set vid Config 2 to 1080P 60 hz as i may lose the picture to everything.

Have anyone seen this before?? Is there anything else I can do to fix this? Again I can not access any video Config outputs other than 2. Otherwise the screen goes black.

Please help me if you can.

Thanks.


----------



## ironcorn

Hello,

Received my replacement 17 1/4 D2v this weekend, unit is perfect so far. Here are my ACR results. My room setup is pretty poor right now, the rears are only 3.5 feet from the center sitting position (and right next to the wall) which I think caused the poor results. Do I need more room gain? Also, my levels are higher than most of the other results I've seen people post. I thought that the front crossover would be lower. Speakers are B&W: 802 L/R, HTM1 C, 803 LS/RS/LR/RR, sub JL F113


----------



## wabbit636

Looking to change the fuse in the D2 with an audilgrade fuse like Hi-Fi Tuning or the Isoclean fuse. The D2 has a 1.5A slow 5x20mm fuse.


The closest one I could find for one of the 2 audiograde fuses above is 1.6A slow 5x20mm fuse. Whill this work or could I put my D2 in jeopardy.


I think it should be ok against power spikes as I have enough protection......I have a Monster AVS 2000 signature that pegs the volts to 120 and plugged into that I have an Equitech 1.5Q that also protects....then all my gear is plugged into the Equitech.


Am I fine with the 1.6A fuse instead of the 1.5A?


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17336637
> 
> 
> Guys: I currently have a Velodyne DD15 and have an opportunity to get a JL Audio Fathom F113 but I have not had a chance to use one or hear one. I know some folks in here have the DD15 and possibly the F113 as well. Would there be any improvement in the F113 over the DD15?



bluemark81, I believe one of the guys here went through a shootout with a pair of DD18's and the JLF113's and SVS Ultra13's...


His oppinion was that it was a horse apiece between the JL's and the DD's when the limited excursion of the DD's but larger diameter driver was pretty much equal to the pair of F113's... I think you will be very close in the match if not see a bit more excursion and output with the F113 over the DD15...


Another direction would be to go DIY. Sealed Subs are very easy to make, or you could have a cabinet maker build one... TC-Sounds is making a comeback and will be shipping out a new and improved version of the 18" LMS Ultra I have 2 of my 4 of these drivers, with another on the way - they are truly the most linear highest output drivers ever measured that work amazingly in a smaller box... I am pushing them with 4000w each. Driver cost will be $1450 pre-order - $1599 after release for just the raw driver. Heck even the 15" LMS would likely outgun the F113 in a nice small box...


They will blow away the JL's and DD's - I also have an F112 I use in the bedroom, and love it to death, but its no LMS...









PM me know if you would like some more help in this idea... I have plenty of experience and build lots of subs.


----------



## duckwood

So as I sit and watch NASCAR today I have some questions. The running order words and other words at the top (including sprint logo etc) all have what I would believe is "mosquito" noise? Where I see pixels move around the edge of the words etc. They just are not clear.


I have my FIOS STB connected via HDMI to the D2v which is then connected to a Pioneer PRO150FD. My STB is outputting 1080i and the D2v is outputting 1080p. I know ABC is 720p and I tried changing the STB to 720p but it basically looked the same. It just doesn't look as good as I would expect. Am I missing something here that I should be doing? Most of the settings in the PRO150 are defaults as regards to noise correction. In the D2v the mosquito and block noise are both set to 0. I tried changing the mosquito some but didn't really see much difference. What kind of numbers are others using?


Also, as another aside, I seem to see quite a bit of blocking when I watch certain HD channels with fast movement. e.g. Speed Racer on Cinemax HD during fast parts looked pretty horrible. I have watched it on blu-ray and it was no comparison. Should I be contacting Verizon to check something or is it something I have wrong, or is that just the way it is?


----------



## Lew L

I have a similar question to Duckwood's. I have Veriszon FiOS and an Oppo BDP each hooked up via HDMI to my Integra 7.8 receiver and then the receiver is hooked up to my Elite Pro-141. The PQ is very good. I ordered a d2v during some upgrade fever, but am now wondering if it will provide any noticeably better picture and sound quality. The system already sounds great and the picture quality is great. Does it get even better? (Note: upgrading to the d2v and A5 amp is about and $8,500 since I already own my Integra. Is there that much difference when I am typically only using high-def sources?)


Thanks,


Lew


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17336648
> 
> 
> Ok I need your help please. I was changing video Configurations on my Anthem D2. I have Vid Config 1 set to 1080P60hz and had my directv and cable(I have both)to vid Config 1. It worked fine. I had my blu-ray set to vid config 2 which was 1080P 24fps. In talking to a friend he said try Auto on Vid Config 1 see how it looks. I did. Did not like as well. It was sending out 720P for some odd reason even to stations that were 1080i. I set it back to 1080P 60hz and the screen went black.(Panasonic 65V10) Now it has been working fine at that config. I rebooted. Still black screen. went to Blu-ray and got a picture(remember it is et to vid config 2) so I tried to reset video config 1. As soon as I moved the red bar to video config 1 from 2 in the menu it went to a black screen. It would not let me switch to my Blu-ray input (assigned to DVD1)So I rebooted Anthem, pulled AC plug from the back again. Plus I turned the TV off like I did before. Still black screen on Sat 1 and TV1, but I now can again access Blu-ray. Tried to go to video Config 3 so maybe I could assign Sat 1 and TV1 to that. Again black screen. Total reboot again. This time I went to reassign Sat 1 and TV 1 to video Config 2 which is 1080P 24 fps. I now get a picuter on my TV from Sat 1 and TV 1 but it of course has a judder to it because It is in 24fps. I am reluctant to set vid Config 2 to 1080P 60 hz as i may lose the picture to everything.
> 
> Have anyone seen this before?? Is there anything else I can do to fix this? Again I can not access any video Config outputs other than 2. Otherwise the screen goes black.
> 
> Please help me if you can.
> 
> Thanks.



I replied to your PM.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/17336773
> 
> 
> Looking to change the fuse in the D2 with an audilgrade fuse like Hi-Fi Tuning or the Isoclean fuse. The D2 has a 1.5A slow 5x20mm fuse.
> 
> 
> The closest one I could find for one of the 2 audiograde fuses above is 1.6A slow 5x20mm fuse. Whill this work or could I put my D2 in jeopardy.
> 
> 
> I think it should be ok against power spikes as I have enough protection......I have a Monster AVS 2000 signature that pegs the volts to 120 and plugged into that I have an Equitech 1.5Q that also protects....then all my gear is plugged into the Equitech.
> 
> 
> Am I fine with the 1.6A fuse instead of the 1.5A?



You're fine with the 1.5A original fuse. Don't waste your money.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ironcorn* /forum/post/17336695
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Received my replacement 17 1/4 D2v this weekend, unit is perfect so far. Here are my ACR results. My room setup is pretty poor right now, the rears are only 3.5 feet from the center sitting position (and right next to the wall) which I think caused the poor results. Do I need more room gain? Also, my levels are higher than most of the other results I've seen people post. I thought that the front crossover would be lower. Speakers are B&W: 802 L/R, HTM1 C, 803 LS/RS/LR/RR, sub JL F113



Start by doing the exercise to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and the volume control in your subwoofer:


Go into Setup > Level Calibration and zero out all lines. Set test mode to Manual in the first line. Drop down to Test Level -- the test noise will be coming from the LF speaker. Adjust the Test Level line to yield 75dB SPL measured at ARC mic position #1.


Do this with your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter -- set to "Slow" response and "C" weighting. Hold it arm's length, pointing straight up, at seated ear height but not adjacent to a reflective surface like a seat back.


Once you have adjusted Test Level, leave that line at that setting. Scroll down to a subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB, and instead adjust the volume control built into your subwoofer to once again achieve 75dB SPL measured the same way.


Redo your ARC setup. ARC will use the Test Level line to set the volume of its test sweep tones and your adjustment to the sub insures it is already in fairly close agreement with the main speakers. Ballpark settings are fine for both settings above. ARC will determine and Upload the precise volume trims for all speakers -- leaving Test Level unchanged. That means you only have to do this exercise once and things are set for multiple ARC setup runs.


--------------------------------------------


Based on the Measured curves you've got a pretty flat room so I'm not surprised ARC only decided to preserve about 1dB of Room Gain. You might prefer raising that to 2dB or 2.5dB for Movie, but I suggest you leave it alone for Music.


Now raising that will result in more residual error in the Room Gain hump for your RR/LR speakers. There's more error there right now than ARC can correct. But if you are going to adjust the Rears anyway perhaps that will sort itself out.


Your Center speaker has a dip at 15KHz that is beyond what ARC can correct completely. The residual error is small and you might just ignore it. But you might be able to get Center to Measure better by adjusting its vertical pointing. It will only take a minor improvement and ARC will be able to provide complete correction.


Your subwoofer is fine.


The crossovers make sense to me. Even though you have main speakers that can go lower it is almost always better to let a good sub work down there instead because a good sub can not only go lower -- it can go lower at HIGH VOLUME.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/17336773
> 
> 
> Looking to change the fuse in the D2 with an audilgrade fuse like Hi-Fi Tuning or the Isoclean fuse. The D2 has a 1.5A slow 5x20mm fuse.
> 
> 
> The closest one I could find for one of the 2 audiograde fuses above is 1.6A slow 5x20mm fuse. Whill this work or could I put my D2 in jeopardy.
> 
> 
> I think it should be ok against power spikes as I have enough protection......I have a Monster AVS 2000 signature that pegs the volts to 120 and plugged into that I have an Equitech 1.5Q that also protects....then all my gear is plugged into the Equitech.
> 
> 
> Am I fine with the 1.6A fuse instead of the 1.5A?



Save your money. A fuse change like this is snake oil as regards audio quality. Seriously.


I would not recommend putting in a larger fuse even when the difference is small as in this case.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/17336915
> 
> 
> So as I sit and watch NASCAR today I have some questions. The running order words and other words at the top (including sprint logo etc) all have what I would believe is "mosquito" noise? Where I see pixels move around the edge of the words etc. They just are not clear.
> 
> 
> I have my FIOS STB connected via HDMI to the D2v which is then connected to a Pioneer PRO150FD. My STB is outputting 1080i and the D2v is outputting 1080p. I know ABC is 720p and I tried changing the STB to 720p but it basically looked the same. It just doesn't look as good as I would expect. Am I missing something here that I should be doing? Most of the settings in the PRO150 are defaults as regards to noise correction. In the D2v the mosquito and block noise are both set to 0. I tried changing the mosquito some but didn't really see much difference. What kind of numbers are others using?
> 
> 
> Also, as another aside, I seem to see quite a bit of blocking when I watch certain HD channels with fast movement. e.g. Speed Racer on Cinemax HD during fast parts looked pretty horrible. I have watched it on blu-ray and it was no comparison. Should I be contacting Verizon to check something or is it something I have wrong, or is that just the way it is?



These are compression artifacts. Even though FIOS isn't recompressing the signal, the source of the program is sending crap to Verizon FIOS for retransmission.


Motion artifacts mean the HD video stream is bit-starved. The data rate has been reduced to the point that the MPEG2 compression can't keep up without you seeing the artifacts.


The mosquito noise in the NASCAR program is probably being produced by their character generator.


Damage like this can not really be removed once it is in the video. All you can do is blur things to try to conceal it. Try turning up both Noise Reduction settings in the D2v and you'll see what I mean. The two controls blur things in different ways so you can fine tune just how you blur things -- but the damage that's already in the video can not be undone.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17336648
> 
> 
> Ok I need your help please. I was changing video Configurations on my Anthem D2. I have Vid Config 1 set to 1080P60hz and had my directv and cable(I have both)to vid Config 1. It worked fine. I had my blu-ray set to vid config 2 which was 1080P 24fps. In talking to a friend he said try Auto on Vid Config 1 see how it looks. I did. Did not like as well. It was sending out 720P for some odd reason even to stations that were 1080i. I set it back to 1080P 60hz and the screen went black.(Panasonic 65V10) Now it has been working fine at that config. I rebooted. Still black screen. went to Blu-ray and got a picture(remember it is et to vid config 2) so I tried to reset video config 1. As soon as I moved the red bar to video config 1 from 2 in the menu it went to a black screen. It would not let me switch to my Blu-ray input (assigned to DVD1)So I rebooted Anthem, pulled AC plug from the back again. Plus I turned the TV off like I did before. Still black screen on Sat 1 and TV1, but I now can again access Blu-ray. Tried to go to video Config 3 so maybe I could assign Sat 1 and TV1 to that. Again black screen. Total reboot again. This time I went to reassign Sat 1 and TV 1 to video Config 2 which is 1080P 24 fps. I now get a picuter on my TV from Sat 1 and TV 1 but it of course has a judder to it because It is in 24fps. I am reluctant to set vid Config 2 to 1080P 60 hz as i may lose the picture to everything.
> 
> Have anyone seen this before?? Is there anything else I can do to fix this? Again I can not access any video Config outputs other than 2. Otherwise the screen goes black.
> 
> Please help me if you can.
> 
> Thanks.



FYI to others following this. I just got another PM and this problem is now fixed. It was a simple user mistake -- accidentally using /50 instead of /60.


It happens. No big deal.


Just a reminder to others -- when things go pear shaped, back off, take a deep breath and go through the basics again. It is almost always something simple to fix if you go through things in a logical order starting with the basics.


--------------------------------------------


Just to let folks know, I'm not immune to this myself. I was doing some testing with the Oppo and switched to Component video. Then we got new Beta firmware and I installed it and switched back to HDMI and NO MORE AUDIO!


Yikes! So I sent up the red flag that the new Beta firmware was badly broken.


Turns out when you switch the Anthem to Component video input it also switches the audio input away from Dig HDMI. When you change back to HDMI input you have to remember to turn HDMI audio back on. I forgot to do that.


Again, it happens.


Took me the better part of an afternoon to get the egg off my face.









--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17336637
> 
> 
> Guys: I currently have a Velodyne DD15 and have an opportunity to get a JL Audio Fathom F113 but I have not had a chance to use one or hear one. I know some folks in here have the DD15 and possibly the F113 as well. Would there be any improvement in the F113 over the DD15?



I went from Velodyne DD12 to a JL F113 so not quite the same configuration that you have. I think that sound volume wise the F113 is equivalent to the DD15.

On the plus side for the F113 you get the same sound quality as a bit bigger subwoofer.

Things I lost from the DD12: the F113 does not have a 12v trigger so you have to leave on all the time. The calibration of JL ARO is not as good as the Velodyne DD software but worse is that there is no way to turn it off completely if you want to use ARC (you can defeat it but if you unplug the speaker it come back on).


I think you should borrow one to try out to see if it worth your upgrade.


----------



## flash2003




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17335172
> 
> 
> Check the Setup > Trigger / IR / RS232 menu in the Anthem and make sure the RS232 settings are at factory default when using the serial port for firmware installs and ARC setup. See the picture in Section 3.11 of the Manual. Sometimes folks change these to work better with a theater control system that uses RS232.
> 
> 
> Check Windows Device Manager to see if it is reporting any problems such as resource conflicts with other hardware and your serial port.
> 
> 
> If you have a software firewall active in your Windows PC, try disabling it.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't fix it for you, give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the tips Bob!


The Anthem RS232 settings were at factory default. I gave up on trying to update the D2 firmware using the desktop and switched to a borrowed laptop. I was able to successfully load v1.33. I guess the reinstall of the OS on my desktop might have somehow disabled COM1. Device manager did not report any problems with the serial port, so I'm not sure what is going on. I'm not going to pursue the problem any further since I plan to buy a new laptop in the not too distant future and will do any further D2/ARC updates from that machine. Anyway, I will attempt my first ARC execution tomorrow (v2.2), and will take advantage of your great tips in this thread.


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17337205
> 
> 
> Save your money. A fuse change like this is snake oil as regards audio quality. Seriously.
> 
> 
> I would not recommend putting in a larger fuse even when the difference is small as in this case.
> 
> --Bob




A few months I would agreed with you, but after replacing the fuse in my subwoofer and amp... I would say that the difference is there, but of course it is not a night and day difference...


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17337263
> 
> 
> FYI to others following this. I just got another PM and this problem is now fixed. It was a simple user mistake -- accidentally using /50 instead of /60.
> 
> 
> It happens. No big deal.
> 
> 
> Just a reminder to others -- when things go pear shaped, back off, take a deep breath and go through the basics again. It is almost always something simple to fix if you go through things in a logical order starting with the basics.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Just to let folks know, I'm not immune to this myself. I was doing some testing with the Oppo and switched to Component video. Then we got new Beta firmware and I installed it and switched back to HDMI and NO MORE AUDIO!
> 
> 
> Yikes! So I sent up the red flag that the new Beta firmware was badly broken.
> 
> 
> Turns out when you switch the Anthem to Component video input it also switches the audio input away from Dig HDMI. When you change back to HDMI input you have to remember to turn HDMI audio back on. I forgot to do that.
> 
> 
> Again, it happens.
> 
> 
> Took me the better part of an afternoon to get the egg off my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Yes, this stuff has enough options in the set up to make a simple mistake and you can completely LOSE Video and it can be darn scary. I was simply experimenting to what would look better in Video Config. I Set it to Auto...looked at it... then decided to set it back to what it was previously ... 1080P60 but in reality I had mistakenly set it to 1080P50....oops.... and lost video. This didn't go over well in our household. Possibly no Sunday night TV. I finally figured Only way to really get it back was to access set up menu from the front of D2.(which I had never done before) Taking a deep breath is very helpful when you screw up like this.





































Also it is helpful to learn how to use set up menu from the front of your D2 or D2v just in case.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17338841
> 
> 
> Yes, this stuff has enough options in the set up to make a simple mistake and you can completely LOSE Video and it can be darn scary. I was simply experimenting to what would look better in Video Config. I Set it to Auto...looked at it... then decided to set it back to what it was previously ... 1080P60 but in reality I had mistakenly set it to 1080P50....oops.... and lost video. This didn't go over well in our household. Possibly no Sunday night TV. I finally figured Only way to really get it back was to access set up menu from the front of D2.(which I had never done before) Taking a deep breath is very helpful when you screw up like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also it is helpful to learn how to use set up menu from the front of your D2 or D2v just in case.



Of course it took me awhile to figure out that I had mistakenly set it to 1080P50. I was sure I had reset it to 1080P60. And not being able to access Video Config 1 with on screen menu meant I was in the dark about the mistake I made.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/17337852
> 
> 
> A few months I would agreed with you, but after replacing the fuse in my subwoofer and amp... I would say that the difference is there, but of course it is not a night and day difference...



Here are some links that describe the placebo effect and some of its many variations. Every audio enthusiast should be aware of this phenomenon.

http://socyberty.com/psychology/the-...lacebo-effect/ 
http://www.physorg.com/news105029324.html 
http://www.mindhacks.com/blog/2009/0...chology_i.html 
http://barryborsboom.wordpress.com/2...-doors-button/ 
http://news.thomasnet.com/IMT/archiv...thermosta.html 


The last two are definitely amusing.


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/17327218
> 
> 
> I found an Anthem dealer in Santa Fe. Turns out his relationship with Anthem/Paradigm is not that great either. I got the impression he may stop carrying Anthem, too.
> 
> 
> This make me vary nervous. What is Anthem doing to alienate their dealers?
> 
> 
> John



Well, it looks like my impression was wrong. The owner of the Anthem dealership in Santa Fe assures me that his relationship with Anthem is strong.


That is what I get for propagating hearsay. Lesson learned.



John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Good! After all there must be SOME happy dealers out there the rate these things are selling!










--Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/17311824
> 
> 
> I have been listening to music using the AnthemLogic-Music surround mode. This surround mode does NOT use the center channel.
> 
> 
> I read on previous posts that for music listening some of you ran the ARC calibration without a center channel.
> 
> 
> When I ran ARC, I assumed a center channel for both cinema and music. By choosing the AnthemLogic-Music mode (i.e., no center channel), am I achieving the same sound as if I ran ARC without a center channel for music?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/17311999
> 
> 
> Almost, the advantage of using an ARC music set-up with less speakers is so that ARC can dedicate more resources to the speakers that are active.
> 
> 
> If ARC does not need to compensate for the center channel, it may be able to better solve for the other speakers that are active.



Thank you Esander. Anyone else would like to chime in? I am about to try Esander's suggestion but it is very time consuming to run ARC (slow laptop computer).


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17342521
> 
> 
> Good! After all there must be SOME happy dealers out there the rate these things are selling!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



And considering the *huge* margins most dealers are making on them.


Oops...did I say that out loud......


----------



## bluemark81

Just finished watching a DTS-MA 7.1 and experienced all kinds of audio dropouts throughout. Had to pause playback, or rewind or power the D2v off and on for it to come back. Wife is ready to divorce me! I hope Anthem can fix this soon.....very soon!


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17339070
> 
> 
> Of course it took me awhile to figure out that I had mistakenly set it to 1080P50. I was sure I had reset it to 1080P60. And not being able to access Video Config 1 with on screen menu meant I was in the dark about the mistake I made.



How about reloading User or Installer Saved settings to restore the Anthem ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Without video, you still need to rely on the Front Panel display to navigate the Setup menu -- even to Reload Factory Defaults.


Navigating Setup using the Front Panel display is not hard. Until you get familiar with it, it helps to have the Manual handy so you can use the menu pictures in the Manual to remind yourself where you are in Setup and what you need to do next. NOTE: The menus are numbered, and the lines in each menu are lettered -- useful to confirm your location in the menus.


Obviously the first order of business is to do what is necessary in menu 1 (Video Output) to get video going again. Keep in mind that you need to confirm Video Output setting changes before they will actually take effect.


--------------------------------------


It is also useful to get familiar with the Shortcuts available via the remote (or Front Panel buttons) for adjusting a few critical settings in the Video Source Adjust menu or your choice of Video Output Configuration. See the very last part of Section 4.11 in the Manual (page 73 in the current D2v Manual).


For example, you press and hold the Mode button to bring up Scale Output and then use the Up and Down arrows to change the selection. Further pressing Mode while that is on screen brings up in turn: Video Output Configuration choice, Frame Lock, and Gamma Correction. Again, use Up and Down arrows to change the setting. So if video is screwed up because you have, for example turned on Frame Lock by mistake or picked the wrong Video Output Configuration, you can use this shortcut to recover.


You can also bring up the video level controls such as Brightness by pressing and holding the Dynamics button. Use Up Down arrow to cycle between the various level controls and Left Right arrow to change a given control. This is useful if you have mistakenly changed Brightness/Contrast to the point where you can no longer read the menus on screen.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

When I received my new D2v, I uploaded the newest beta firmware (2.07f), my saved user settings, and the Live Video Settings from the D2, before I connected any inputs and confirmed them via the Setup Menu. All worked fine. Last evening I had the unit on for several hours and went to the setup menu only to be greeted by a black raster. Several tries using various inputs as a sync source still left me with no menu screen. A front panel shutoff and power up restored normal use. All the HDMI inputs have been configured for optimal performance according to various posts and direct input from Bob P. I understand the S-Video conversion to HDMI and all that, but I thought this would have been resolved in the D2v. Is this still an issue?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17346519
> 
> 
> When I received my new D2v, I uploaded the newest beta firmware (2.07f), my saved user settings, and the Live Video Settings from the D2, before I connected any inputs and confirmed them via the Setup Menu. All worked fine. Last evening I had the unit on for several hours and went to the setup menu only to be greeted by a black raster. Several tries using various inputs as a sync source still left me with no menu screen. A front panel shutoff and power up restored normal use. All the HDMI inputs have been configured for optimal performance according to various posts and direct input from Bob P. I understand the S-Video conversion to HDMI and all that, but I thought this would have been resolved in the D2v. Is this still an issue?



Did you lose video from HDMI sources as well?


There's a bug I ran into in V2.07g which can cause loss of video from analog video sources (which includes the Setup menu since it is an internally generated, S-video analog source). Apparently the analog video signal detection gets screwed up. Power cycling cures that.


I have not encountered that bug in V2.07f -- one of the reasons I backed off from V2.07g. Nor have I encountered a problem, even in V2.07g, where HDMI video input was lost.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17346561
> 
> 
> Did you lose video from HDMI sources as well?
> 
> 
> There's a bug I ran into in V2.07g which can cause loss of video from analog video sources (which includes the Setup menu since it is an internally generated, S-video analog source). Apparently the analog video signal detection gets screwed up. Power cycling cures that.
> 
> 
> I have not encountered that bug in V2.07f -- one of the reasons I backed off from V2.07g. Nor have I encountered a problem, even in V2.07g, where HDMI video input was lost.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. The HDMI Signal from all the sources is fine, it is just the setup menu over the HDMI output. I double checked and the firmware is 2.07g. I thought I loaded (f). I will report it so Anthem can note another incident.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17346635
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob. The HDMI Signal from all the sources is fine, it is just the setup menu over the HDMI output. I double checked and the firmware is 2.07g. I thought I loaded (f). I will report it so Anthem can note another incident.



Good. That matches my experience.


My recommendation would be that you discard V2.07g. If you have a 5.1 system, V2.07f seems to work quite well.


If you have a 7.1 speaker system there are problems with audio processing even in V2.07f -- 5.1 tracks are not properly raised to 7.1 speaker output. If that's crucial to you, you'll need to back off to "official" V2.07.


I presume the next set of bug fixes is pending release of the Dolby Volume firmware.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17346668
> 
> 
> Good. That matches my experience.
> 
> 
> My recommendation would be that you discard V2.07g. If you have a 5.1 system, V2.07f seems to work quite well.
> 
> 
> If you have a 7.1 speaker system there are problems with audio processing even in V2.07f -- 5.1 tracks are not properly raised to 7.1 speaker output. If that's crucial to you, you'll need to back off to "official" V2.07.
> 
> 
> I presume the next set of bug fixes is pending release of the Dolby Volume firmware.
> 
> --Bob



I have a full 7.1 system. If I page through the Status menu, will it identify properly what channels it is outputting? Or, is the improper 5.1/7.1 conversion not properly noted in the Status screen, but in reality, happening? Are the HDMI improvements noted in f & g worth keeping g?


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17346837
> 
> 
> I have a full 7.1 system. If I page through the Status menu, will it identify properly what channels it is outputting? Or, is the improper 5.1/7.1 conversion not properly noted in the Status screen, but in reality, happening? Are the HDMI improvements noted in f & g worth keeping g?



Greetings,


Netroamer, the problems with 2.07f/g with 7.1 channel systems is that no sound is emitted from the rear surround channels when a 5.1 channel Dolby TrueHD or uncompressed PCM 5.1 channel signal from a Blu-ray disc is present. DTS-HD Master Audio 5.1 channel and all 7.1 channel signals playback normally. I had to revert back to 2.07 when these signals are properly played back. Quite frankly it's an annoyance because 2.07 has issues of its own that have been corrected in 2.07g however this is too big an issue for me to overlook. I hope it is resolved quickly because I was happy with 2.07g otherwise.


By the way standard Dolby/DTS signals are unaffected and playback normally so if you don't have a Blu-ray or HD DVD player you should be in good shape.


One more thing to note. The problem that Bob speaks about with loss of video with analog sources after prolonged input of 1080p/24 signal is something I have noticed with 2.07 and 2.07g.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There are serious problems in V2.07g, although not everyone will notice them. Down-mixing is not done properly for example. Also, if you have a 5.1 speaker system, I believe V2.07g is decoding the "core" lossy track from a DTS-HD MA bitstream. And the loss of analog video. These are enough for me to believe there is something significantly wrong in V2.07g that may cause improper operation in all sorts of subtle ways.


At the moment I think that V2.07f is the best of the bunch, but it does have the problem Ralph details if you are trying to get 7.1 speaker output from 5.1 TrueHD or LPCM tracks. If you can live with this for the present, I think V2.07f has significant improvements over "official" V2.07 that make it well worthwhile. These include HDMI improvements, but also some audio issue fixes.


This would probably be a good point to remind people that BOTH "test" V2.07f and "test" V2.07g come with the *SCARY WARNING!* If the install fails while the Video board is being programmed you may have no recourse but to send the unit back to the Anthem factory for special, corrective reprogramming. At the very least this means you should NOT attempt an install of either V2.07f or V2.07g unless you are confident in your firmware installation setup (Windows PC and serial connection). For example, try re-installing "official" V2.07 on top of itself more than once.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

All of the Anthem and Paradigm web pages are down at the moment. Since both are affected, I presume their ISP is having some sort of problem as opposed to the site being taken down to make some interesting change.

--Bob


----------



## rafsel

At the risk of being accused of not searching (I did!) can someone either point me to a post or give me simplified instructions on how to do an initial set up on my brand new Oppo BDP-83 with an AVM-50 (latest firmware, 1.33 I think) connected to a JVC RS1 via hdmi.


Thanks in advance for any pointers and/or advice on how to do an initial setup.


Martin


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rafsel* /forum/post/17347751
> 
> 
> At the risk of being accused of not searching (I did!) can someone either point me to a post or give me simplified instructions on how to do an initial set up on my brand new Oppo BDP-83 with an AVM-50 (latest firmware, 1.33 I think) connected to a JVC RS1 via hdmi.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any pointers and/or advice on how to do an initial setup.
> 
> 
> Martin



I posted this four days ago:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post17327901 


In a few cases I've pointed out different settings appropriate for use with the original D2. If you have the original AVM 50 (not a new AVM 50v) follow those settings as well.


Make sure you have updated your Oppo to the latest official firmware. The Main firmware version will be 0925 for example.


Also be sure to check out the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post link found in the collection of post links in the first post of this thread for general advice on video setup.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

This is becoming a bit weary. I have updated firmware in many units, but have not experienced anything like the D2 and D2v upgrade issues. One step forward and two steps back may be the way we have come to expect governments to work, but we expect more from companies like Anthem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If you limit yourself to only using "official" firmware releases, I believe you'll avoid such frustrations.


If you want early access to the work in progress, life gets more, umm, interesting.










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Anthem web pages are back on line. No changes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Increasing Setup > ADC / Audio Output > 2-CH ANLG-DSP*


The above setting has a Factory Default of 44.1KHz. The equivalent setting for the 6-CH analog input is 96KHz.


The 2-CH setting has two functions. First it establishes the Digital Recorder output rate when sending a stereo analog source to a digital recorder. Not all recorders can handle higher rates, and in particular if you are copying to writable CD media you must use 44.1KHz for it to work correctly.


But the setting ALSO controls the rate at which the input DIGITIZING happens!


That raises the question whether increasing this setting might produce better sound on the Main path when playing an analog stereo source?


---------------------------------


I wasn't sure I had a handle on how this works in the D2v and AVM 50v since the text in the Manual has changed compared to the D2 and the AVM 50.


I just had an exchange with Nick on this and the only significant change is removal of one limitation. In the D2 and AVM 50, the NEO:6 surround mode could not function at the higher rates. But in the D2v and AVM 50v it can.


Now it is debatable whether raising the analog stereo input sampling rate above 44.1KHz will actually result in improvements you can hear. There are some tests with other hardware that suggest not -- that there's a significant placebo effect going on here.


But with the D2 and even the AVM 50, we have numerous posts in this thread from folks saying raising the 2-CH rate up to 96KHz resulted in better audio in their system. Keep in mind that this can only apply when you are actually digitizing the analog input -- i.e., using ANLG-DSP mode instead of ANLG-DIRECT. But since you need to use ANLG-DSP anyway to allow ARC to function for those inputs it all works well together.


You can raise the rate up to 96KHz. Will this produce better D2v and AVM 50v sound when playing analog stereo sources? I think I can give a definite, "Maybe"! In any event, there's no downside I know of to trying it so long as you don't try to feed stuff from the Digital Recorder outputs that your recorder can't handle.

--Bob


----------



## rafsel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17347832
> 
> 
> I posted this four days ago:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post17327901
> 
> 
> In a few cases I've pointed out different settings appropriate for use with the original D2. If you have the original AVM 50 (not a new AVM 50v) follow those settings as well.
> 
> 
> Make sure you have updated your Oppo to the latest official firmware. The Main firmware version will be 0925 for example.
> 
> 
> Also be sure to check out the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post link found in the collection of post links in the first post of this thread for general advice on video setup.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks very much for your quick response.


(I have the AVM50 - actually an upgraded AVM20)


I've read your post and the older video calibration links and will follow them tonight. One question: in the calibration posts you said that the rule of thumb is to let the Anthem do as much of the processing as possible. (This is also what [email protected]anthem has told me). But in your setup of the BDP-83 I think you recommend having it output 1024 even for SD-DVD. Is this because the oppo's processing is as good as the anthem's for this purpose?


Martin


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rafsel* /forum/post/17348638
> 
> 
> One question: in the calibration posts you said that the rule of thumb is to let the Anthem do as much of the processing as possible. (This is also what [email protected] has told me). But in your setup of the BDP-83 I think you recommend having it output *1080p* even for SD-DVD. Is this because the oppo's processing is as good as the anthem's for this purpose?
> 
> 
> Martin



I corrected your typo above, and the answer is yes. This also allows you to use some of the convenience features in the Oppo such as "16:9 Wide/Auto" mode that don't function if you select Source Direct.

--Bob


----------



## rafsel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17348679
> 
> 
> I corrected your typo above, and the answer is yes. This also allows you to use some of the convenience features in the Oppo such as "16:9 Wide/Auto" mode that don't function if you select Source Direct.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks again.


And thanks for fixing my typo - I was coding and I guess stuck in hexadecimal!


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I looked in the manual for the remote shortcut for changing video config you mentioned but could not find anything. Wondered if you could let me know how to do this. It would save a lot of time not having to go into the setup menu.

thanks,

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17347832
> 
> 
> I posted this four days ago:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post17327901
> 
> 
> In a few cases I've pointed out different settings appropriate for use with the original D2. If you have the original AVM 50 (not a new AVM 50v) follow those settings as well.
> 
> 
> Make sure you have updated your Oppo to the latest official firmware. The Main firmware version will be 0925 for example.
> 
> 
> Also be sure to check out the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post link found in the collection of post links in the first post of this thread for general advice on video setup.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I checked out your post from a few days ago and there is something I don't understand.

You say to set the Oppo to YCbCr4:2:2 rather than 4:4:4. I don't see any way to change this in the Oppo menu.

I do see where its an option in the Anthems in the 'video output' section of the D2 set-up, but I can't find it in the Oppo set-up. Am I missing something?

I'm running the latest official Oppo firmware that just came out a week ago or so.

BTW, when I check the video info status on the D2 (by holding #7) it always shows hdmi YCbCr4:4:4. I assume thats either the default or what the Oppo has determined is the best setting.









Tom


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17349383
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I looked in the manual for the remote shortcut for changing video config you mentioned but could not find anything. Wondered if you could let me know how to do this. It would save a lot of time not having to go into the setup menu.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



Greetings,


John, look on page 73 in the manual. There is a shaded area at the bottom that tells you how to do it. I use this method rather than going into the setup menu and it works great.


Regards,


----------



## pjpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17344357
> 
> 
> Just finished watching a DTS-MA 7.1 and experienced all kinds of audio dropouts throughout. Had to pause playback, or rewind or power the D2v off and on for it to come back. Wife is ready to divorce me! I hope Anthem can fix this soon.....very soon!



I had similar problems when bitstreaming 7.1 from Oppo BDP83 into D2v. Two options.

1) Set your Blu Ray player to LPCM.

2) Email Anthem and ask for the link to download 2.07f


Hope that helps.


----------



## jayray

Thanks Ralph, found it.

John


----------



## bluemark81

Downloaded 2.07g today and so far all issues seem to be ok. I will update you all of any changes.


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17336354
> 
> 
> Odds are you have secondary audio mixing turned on in the player for the discs that aren't working. When you do that you will probably get the "associated" DD5.1 track instead of the lossless TrueHD track. In many players this will happen even if you haven't actually selected a feature from the disc that generates secondary audio.
> 
> --Bob



You were right, Bob! It was the secondary audio mixing. All this time I thought I was listening to Dolby TrueHD. What is odd is that some soundtracks caused the TrueHD LED to illuminate on the AVM50v, but when pressing the status button, it just said "Dolby Digital". After turning the Secondary Audio Mix OFF on the blu-ray player, it now says DolbyHD on the onscreen display. Oh yeah.... it sounds a helluva lot better too. Some of the soundtracks had muffled dialog... I thought that was due to problems with the room. Nope... all better now!


One Happy Camper!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/17349410
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I checked out your post from a few days ago and there is something I don't understand.
> 
> You say to set the Oppo to YCbCr4:2:2 rather than 4:4:4. I don't see any way to change this in the Oppo menu.
> 
> I do see where its an option in the Anthems in the 'video output' section of the D2 set-up, but I can't find it in the Oppo set-up. Am I missing something?
> 
> I'm running the latest official Oppo firmware that just came out a week ago or so.
> 
> BTW, when I check the video info status on the D2 (by holding #7) it always shows hdmi YCbCr4:4:4. I assume thats either the default or what the Oppo has determined is the best setting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



It will be an output setting in any device that offers it.


In the case of the Oppo is it is in Setup > Video Setup > HDMI Options > Color Space.


There is no input setting adjustment need in the Anthem. The Anthem allows YCbCr 4:2:2 input and the data format is agreed to during the handshake.


There is no reason why the input data format from the Source to the Anthem need have anything to do with the output data format from the Anthem to your display. Part of what the Anthem offers is conversions like that. So, for example, I send Studio RGB to the DVI input of my display regardless of what's coming in from the Source devices.


By default, the OPPO uses Auto for its HDMI Options > Color Space setting, and that results in YCbCr 4:4:4 output to the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17349876
> 
> 
> Downloaded 2.07g today and so far all issues seem to be ok. I will update you all of any changes.



Good. Be sure to read the exchange above about known problems in V2.07g vs. V2.07f.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This is probably a good time to remind people once again that the post links collected in the first post of this thread contain useful tutorial stuff.


For example, check out the "Technology and Terminology" post links to find out what the heck YCbCr 4:2:2 *IS*, and how it differs from other data formats.


It is still the case that the data formats that work best for input and output will be impacted BOTH by what your Source likes and what your Display likes. When you get down to the fine "tweaking" of video quality there's no substitute for just trying the different input/output formats -- recalibrating each time -- and see which combo you like better. This is complicated by the fact that not all Sources will offer all formats and not all displays will accept all formats.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17350051
> 
> 
> It will be an output setting in any device that offers it.
> 
> 
> In the case of the Oppo is it is in Setup > Video Setup > HDMI Options > Color Space.
> 
> 
> There is no input setting adjustment need in the Anthem. The Anthem allows YCbCr 4:2:2 input and the data format is agreed to during the handshake.
> 
> 
> There is no reason why the input data format from the Source to the Anthem need have anything to do with the output data format from the Anthem to your display. Part of what the Anthem offers is conversions like that. So, for example, I send Studio RGB to the DVI input of my display regardless of what's coming in from the Source devices.
> 
> 
> By default, the OPPO uses Auto for its HDMI Options > Color Space setting, and that results in YCbCr 4:4:4 output to the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks.

Now that I know where it is in the Oppo set-up I will try 4:2:2 and see if it makes a difference.

What would be the best color space to output to a plasma 1080p? Or is that just trial and error?

Thanks again, Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Trial and error. 4:4:4 is the default for HDMI to HDMI connections.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17350067
> 
> 
> Good. Be sure to read the exchange above about known problems in V2.07g vs. V2.07f.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I did read your comments recommending f over g and I must say, my intention was to download f, but I clicked on the wrong one by mistake and decided to try it rather than aborting or downloading again for f. Like I say, so far, it seems to be fine. I'm not quite sure I understood your comment regarding a downmixing issue with f though. Can you further explain this so I know what to look for?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The problem is with g not f. 7.1 TrueHD tracks played into 5.1 speaker systems have the Rear channels incorrectly steered to both front speakers in addition to the correct steering to the one Side speaker on that side. "f" does this correctly.


I believe that Bitstream decoding of 7.1 DTS-HD MA in "g" is only decoding the 5.1 lossy "core" if you happen to have a 5.1 speaker system. "f" gets this correct as well.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17350198
> 
> 
> The problem is with g not f. 7.1 TrueHD tracks played into 5.1 speaker systems have the Rear channels incorrectly steered to both front speakers in addition to the correct steering to the one Side speaker on that side. "f" does this correctly.
> 
> 
> I believe that Bitstream decoding of 7.1 DTS-HD MA in "g" is only decoding the 5.1 lossy "core" if you happen to have a 5.1 speaker system. "f" gets this correct as well.
> 
> --Bob



Bob: I did download "g". (I intended to download "f"). However, I'm running a 7.1 setup, so I'm not sure if the issues of "g" apply to my setup.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Those two issues won't.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan

nnnnnnnnnn


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17350182
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I did read your comments recommending f over g and I must say, my intention was to download f, *but I clicked on the wrong one by mistake* and decided to try it rather than aborting or downloading again for f. Like I say, so far, it seems to be fine. I'm not quite sure I understood your comment regarding a downmixing issue with f though. Can you further explain this so I know what to look for?



Gee, I'd never click on the wrong setting by mistake!


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17351250
> 
> 
> nnnnnnnnnn
> 
> Gee, I'd never click on the wrong setting by mistake!



First time ever...must be an age thing!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17350313
> 
> 
> Bob: I did download "g". (I intended to download "f"). However, I'm running a 7.1 setup, so I'm not sure if the issues of "g" apply to my setup.



With a 7.1 setup, TrueHD tracks do not play out of back

speakers using 2.07g. Ralph and I confirmed this after it first

came out. Nick was notified.

John


----------



## jayray

An interesting review on the AVS forum re: the Anthem D2v and AVM50v. Click on the internal link to go to the show report from Great Britain.

Cognitive Dissonance lives on







http://www.avforums.com/forums/10582196-post41.html 


John


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17352260
> 
> 
> With a 7.1 setup, TrueHD tracks do not play out of back
> 
> speakers using 2.07g. Ralph and I confirmed this after it first
> 
> came out. Nick was notified.
> 
> John



Greetings,


Uncompressed multi-channel PCM tracks are also affected.



Regards,


----------



## jayray

Yes, I forgot









John


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17351788
> 
> 
> First time ever...must be an age thing!



bluemark, you do realize I am making fun of myself!







If you go back a few pages you will see when I Changed the Video Config my mistake to 1080P 50Hz but thought and meant to have done 1080P 60Hz. I lost video. It was a nerve wracking mistake till I could figure out what I had done.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17353110
> 
> 
> An interesting review on the AVS forum re: the Anthem D2v and AVM50v. Click on the internal link to go to the show report from Great Britain.
> 
> Cognitive Dissonance lives on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.avforums.com/forums/10582196-post41.html
> 
> 
> John



Nice review.

Someone should enlighten the reviewer on how ARC really works:


"The interesting point is that, unlike consumer implementations of Audyssey which has virtually no user tunable options unless you're clever enough to know how to 'bias' the result through mic positioning, Anthem allow you to input the room size to bias the expected room gain to boost the bottom end. So, tell it you have a small room and you can then effectively turn the wick up by maintaining those settings but adjust the room settings to 'large'."


----------



## ~Ohdee~

!


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17352260
> 
> 
> With a 7.1 setup, TrueHD tracks do not play out of back
> 
> speakers using 2.07g. Ralph and I confirmed this after it first
> 
> came out. Nick was notified.
> 
> John



So, should I overwrite g with f? It sounds like there are less issues of this sort with g but will I possibly encounter more serious issues?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17355336
> 
> 
> So, should I overwrite g with f? It sounds like there are less issues of this sort with g but will I possibly encounter more serious issues?



I didn't have any issues with 2.07f but as I noted, did with 2.07g. I went back to 2.07 since I did not have 2.07f to reinstall. Well I just found a copy of 2.07f so I might install it since 2.07h may be a few weeks away according to Nick.

John


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17355432
> 
> 
> I didn't have any issues with 2.07f but as I noted, did with 2.07g. I went back to 2.07 since I did not have 2.07f to reinstall. Well I just found a copy of 2.07f so I might install it since 2.07h may be a few weeks away according to Nick.
> 
> John



Greetings,


I look forward to 2.07h. I tried both f and g and both had the 7.1 Dolby TrueHD/PCM rear channel problem.



Regards,


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17355635
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I look forward to 2.07h. I tried both f and g and both had the 7.1 Dolby TrueHD/PCM rear channel problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



I checked 2.07g and indeed, on True HD there is no rear channel sound. I loaded 2.07f and I get the exact same thing occurring.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17355684
> 
> 
> I checked 2.07g and indeed, on True HD there is no rear channel sound. I loaded 2.07f and I get the exact same thing occurring.



Greetings,


Yup. That is why I had to revert back to 2.07. It has issues but I can live with them short term. I really liked 2.07g and with the exception of this issue it worked well for me.



Regards,


----------



## jayray

Well that saves me one more firmware update









John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17355774
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Yup. That is why I had to revert back to 2.07. It has issues but I can live with them short term. I really liked 2.07g and with the exception of this issue it worked well for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



I can't live with 2.07 at all. I've also noticed that I don't have audio from my rear channels on 2.07g (True HD and DTS MA).


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17356134
> 
> 
> I can't live with 2.07 at all. I've also noticed that I don't have audio from my rear channels on 2.07g (True HD and DTS MA).



Greetings,


blumark81, I thought we covered that already.







2.07g/f both exhibit the problem.



Regards,


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17356449
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> blumark81, I thought we covered that already.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2.07g/f both exhibit the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Sorry, guess I missed the fact that "f" also was missing rear channel audio on DTS MA. I went back to "g" as I only am absent of rear channel audio on True HD material.


----------



## smboyer

Working with new AVM50v Trying to optimize sound . Tried to follow instructions re sound levels and measured from 8 spots. Any input would be appreciated


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smboyer* /forum/post/17356878
> 
> 
> Working with new AVM50v Trying to optimize sound . Tried to follow instructions re sound levels and measured from 8 spots. Any input would be appreciated



The basic volume level is fine and your sub looks to be in good shape. But obviously you've got significant problems in the treble in all your main speakers.


The treble problem in LS/RS is bad enough that I suspect they are not wired correctly or that they have blown tweeter drivers. Some speakers have separate binding posts for different frequencies all of which have to be connected. Typically you would do this by using bus bar connectors between the binding posts at the speaker so that you only have to run one wire to the speaker.


Play a CD with some treble and set the Anthem to Stereo All audio mode. Then go put your ear up close to the tweeter and midrange driver in each speaker in turn and make sure they are firing.


The error at 10KHz in LF/RF and C could be due to pointing. If C is not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to its vertical pointing. For LF/RF, don't point them straight out OR directly at the center seating position. A useful rule of thumb is to swing them only 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular to the screen towards the center seating position.


Some of the problem in LS/RS can also be due to pointing.


Another possibility is that the grill cloth or grill mounting hardware is interfering with treble.


-----------------------------------


LF/RF are also too hot in bass. Now ARC has corrected this but if you can tame that it would be good. It will let ARC concentrate more on other stuff.


For example you have a 17dB swing in RF between 30Hz and 190Hz. That's a lot. Part of that near 150-200Hz looks like it could be a room null. It shows in Center as well.


First see if LF/RF have a configuration option to reduce bass, such as closing a bass port. Next, consider moving them further out from the nearest wall/corner. Moving C out a bit further might also change how it couples to that 150Hz room null. Even inches matter at these frequencies.


If you can't find new positioning that helps, you might want to consider adding some bass traps on the walls/corners behind LF/RF and C. Now again, ARC has pretty much corrected this stuff so you could let it slide, but for example, ARC thinks your room has almost no Room Gain, and that's probably partly due to that room null near 150Hz. And ARC is devoting resources to correcting bass that could be applied to helping with your treble problems.

--Bob


----------



## smboyer

Checked and I do seem to have sound out of front tweeters. Confirmed they are wired correctly. FL/FR have tweeter vol control -1 to +1 currently set to zero Assume that moving this to +1 would be correct move. They also have rear bass ports. There is no built in mech to close. Is there a prefered technique for closing a bass port. Will move center away from wall and decrease FL/FR angle before next trial. thanks


----------



## dlynch34

Does anyone know the button or series of buttons on the remote I need to push to change the aspect ratio (scaling) on the D2?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17360311
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the button or series of buttons on the remote I need to push to change the aspect ratio (scaling) on the D2?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Two ways:


While viewing the Source you want to change, press and hold "7" a few seconds until the Video Source Adjust menu comes on screen. Scroll right to Scale Out. Scroll down to your new choice and press Select.


Or, as a shortcut, press and hold Mode until the current Scale Out setting appears on screen and then use Up/Down arrow to change.


See the end of Section 4.11 in the Manual for other such shortcuts.


For the interaction between Crop Input and Scale Out settings, see the "Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling" post links in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

I'm sure I missed this somewhere in the previous posts, but I've discovered that there is no audio from the rear channels using uncompressed PCM 5.1 as well. (2.07g)


Also, regarding PCM, if I understand things properly, PCM is the raw digital data in which True HD and DTS MA is based being a true uncompressed signal. Again, if I understand things correctly, Dolby and DTS are companies that take this data and mix and steer it to their spec. So, who is responsible for mixing and steering PCM? Can someone explain this to me and how does the D2v process an uncompressed LPCM signal?


Thanks


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17361711
> 
> 
> So, who is responsible for mixing and steering PCM? Can someone explain this to me and how does the D2v process an uncompressed LPCM signal?
> 
> 
> Thanks



All audio is converted to PCM inside the D2v if it is in another format (such as Dolby Digital, TrueHD, DTS etc). Think of it as the native format of the D2v.


A PCM signal is already native, so no conversion is needed.


All the steering/mixing is done according to the audio modes (mono, stereo and surround) and speaker settings. For example when you select a source such as DVD, you are able to specify modes for incoming signals. For stereo audio from your DVD, you might select Pro Logic IIx Movie which will create a multichannel (up to 7.1) 'mix' of your stereo source. Your Speaker settings will also impact this - setting speakers to large or small will impact how much low frequency is steered away from the main/surround speakers and to the subwoofer.


All this stuff interacts, so it can get complex quickly. Bear in mind that it is easy to set some things in your DVD/BD/STB so THAT device does some steering or mixing (in addition to what the D2v does). You don't want this - it's best to do the mode processing and Low frequency steering in one place.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17362463
> 
> 
> All audio is converted to PCM inside the D2v if it is in another format (such as Dolby Digital, TrueHD, DTS etc). Think of it as the native format of the D2v.
> 
> 
> A PCM signal is already native, so no conversion is needed.
> 
> 
> All the steering/mixing is done according to the audio modes (mono, stereo and surround) and speaker settings. For example when you select a source such as DVD, you are able to specify modes for incoming signals. For stereo audio from your DVD, you might select Pro Logic IIx Movie which will create a multichannel (up to 7.1) 'mix' of your stereo source. Your Speaker settings will also impact this - setting speakers to large or small will impact how much low frequency is steered away from the main/surround speakers and to the subwoofer.
> 
> 
> All this stuff interacts, so it can get complex quickly. Bear in mind that it is easy to set some things in your DVD/BD/STB so THAT device does some steering or mixing (in addition to what the D2v does). You don't want this - it's best to do the mode processing and Low frequency steering in one place.



Thanks, but another question: Why not leave LPCM as native instead of converting it to True HD, DTS, etc., because wouldn't native theoretically be better?


----------



## smboyer

Here is updated attemt

1 center 2 inches farther out

2 socks?? in bass port

3 FL/FR 30 degrees

4 tweeter volume +1

5 confirm sound from FL FR tweeter



lisining area right of front left. front left now 30 degres off screen is fl aimed to far left ???


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Question? Have any of you tried the Cardas RCA caps on your Anthem Pre/Pro?

I know with all the input and outputs on the back that don't have anything connected to them, I was wondering if using these would lower the noise floor or not. Has any one tried them on here? Just curious. It is often mentioned as as an inexpensive tweak to improve your stereo. Just wondering if anyone has tried them on an Anthem Pre/Pro


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smboyer* /forum/post/17363720
> 
> 
> Here is updated attemt
> 
> 1 center 2 inches farther out
> 
> 2 socks?? in bass port
> 
> 3 FL/FR 30 degrees
> 
> 4 tweeter volume +1
> 
> 5 confirm sound from FL FR tweeter
> 
> 
> 
> lisining area right of front left. front left now 30 degres off screen is fl aimed to far left ???



The bass change has helped for LF/RF, but not for C. ARC has found more Room Gain this time, partly in response to this. But the modest positioning change for C really didn't do anything. You may need to do more experimentation with C.


You mentioned that you checked LF/RF tweeters, but did you check tweeters for LS/RS? Those are the speakers where the tweeters are most likely to be broken or not wired. Something is very wrong for LS/RS.


Your biggest problem remains the high frequencies. Re-read the instructions in the Manual for picking the ARC mic positions to make sure you are getting accurate readings. But assuming you are, even after ARC correction you've got a hole above 7KHz that's pretty bad.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17363406
> 
> 
> Thanks, but another question: Why not leave LPCM as native instead of converting it to True HD, DTS, etc., because wouldn't native theoretically be better?



TrueHD and DTS-HD MA are packing formats. LPCM packed up as TrueHD or DTS-HD MA takes up less space on the disc and, even more important, doesn't require as high a bit rate to read off the disc. This gives the people authoring the disc more flexibility as to how to structure things -- particularly important if they are trying to include a higher bit rate track, e.g., 24-bit/96KHz or 24-bit/192KHz.


As for native being "better": No. TrueHD and DTS-HD MA tracks are "lossless" in the sense that the LPCM that comes out of the decoding is a bit-perfect match for the LPCM that went into the encoder in the studio. So LPCM is only better because it doesn't require decoding and thus may avoid either encoding bugs or decoding bugs. Conversely, there's no reason to expect TrueHD or DTS-HD MA to be "better" either. Most studios, particularly those making feature films, are simply using 16-bit/48KHz tracks that could just as easily be shipped as raw LPCM. And although both Dolby and DTS have added optional stuff to their specs to try to make the case that packing up the audio is a better way to go (and in particular, picking THEIR format is better than the other format), the reality is that nobody is really trying to take advantage of that stuff yet, and if they did the jury is truly still out as to whether any of it would make a difference real users would hear in their homes.


The bottom line right now is that if the same master is presented on disc both as raw LPCM or either TrueHD or DTS-HD MA, the odds are excellent you will hear no difference whatsoever assuming there are no bugs in the audio processing. Of course outside of test discs you will seldom find both LPCM and a packing format on the same disc.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smboyer* /forum/post/17363720
> 
> 
> Here is updated attemt
> 
> 1 center 2 inches farther out
> 
> 2 socks?? in bass port
> 
> 3 FL/FR 30 degrees
> 
> 4 tweeter volume +1
> 
> 5 confirm sound from FL FR tweeter



Could you tell us the brand/model of the speakers?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17364135
> 
> 
> TrueHD and DTS-HD MA are packing formats. LPCM packed up as TrueHD or DTS-HD MA takes up less space on the disc and, even more important, doesn't require as high a bit rate to read off the disc. This gives the people authoring the disc more flexibility as to how to structure things -- particularly important if they are trying to include a higher bit rate track, e.g., 24-bit/96KHz or 24-bit/192KHz.
> 
> 
> As for native being "better": No. TrueHD and DTS-HD MA tracks are "lossless" in the sense that the LPCM that comes out of the decoding is a bit-perfect match for the LPCM that went into the encoder in the studio. So LPCM is only better because it doesn't require decoding and thus may avoid either encoding bugs or decoding bugs. Conversely, there's no reason to expect TrueHD or DTS-HD MA to be "better" either. Most studios, particularly those making feature films, are simply using 16-bit/48KHz tracks that could just as easily be shipped as raw LPCM. And although both Dolby and DTS have added optional stuff to their specs to try to make the case that packing up the audio is a better way to go (and in particular, picking THEIR format is better than the other format), the reality is that nobody is really trying to take advantage of that stuff yet, and if they did the jury is truly still out as to whether any of it would make a difference real users would hear in their homes.
> 
> 
> The bottom line right now is that if the same master is presented on disc both as raw LPCM or either TrueHD or DTS-HD MA, the odds are excellent you will hear no difference whatsoever assuming there are no bugs in the audio processing. Of course outside of test discs you will seldom find both LPCM and a packing format on the same disc.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the great explanation Bob!


----------



## smboyer

Ceiling mounted Revel S30. ISF calibrator mention prob with these in past and have been sent back to Revel once but apparently still not right. They have grill covers on.would that account for the degree of problem I have? Could interacton with ceiling as opposed to more standard side wall be a problem.


----------



## smboyer

One other thought. Ceiling mount means that when microphone is in straight up for measurements it is pointed directly at LS/RS tweeter. Does this have any effect


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smboyer* /forum/post/17365091
> 
> 
> Ceiling mounted Revel S30. ISF calibrator mention prob with these in past and have been sent back to Revel once but apparently still not right. They have grill covers on.would that account for the degree of problem I have? Could interacton with ceiling as opposed to more standard side wall be a problem.



The grill covers could DEFINITELY be a problem. We had another poster here who discovered his grill mounting hardware actually covered his tweeters so the treble couldn't get out.


The problem could also be directional. Treble is not uniformly dispersed by any speaker, but your speakers could be particularly directional at high frequencies and thus pointing issues may be a big factor.


And the problem could be that these are just not very good speakers at high frequencies. But really, the red Measured curves for LS/RS are so bad you need to make sure the tweeters are actually wired up and firing to start.


The red Measured curves are an unweighted average of what the ARC mic sees at all your mic positions. So to get as poor a response as you are getting from LS/RS up there pretty much means it isn't hearing any treble at any mic position.


In contrast, the LF/RF curves could be explained by directionality (speaker pointing) -- i.e., the speaker isn't producing a decent amount of treble at only some of the ARC mic positions.


Treble measurement can also be affected by lack of care in setting up the ARC mic. Make sure it is pointing straight up and that it is set at seated ear height at each position. But keep the mic tip away from reflective or blocking surfaces like seat backs or walls. Raise the mic tip a few inches or shift it about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from a seat back for example. ARC mic position #1 should be in the center or your group of seats at your preferred seating distance -- even if the center is not your primary listening location among those seats. Subsequent mic positions must alternate either side of #1. All mic positions must be spaced so that no two positions, whether or not sequential, are closer than 24 inches. I use 30 inches. The mic positions should span the area you use for seating, and should have some forward/backward to them as well as side to side. So for example, if you are measuring along a sofa don't just use a straight line. Swing the outer two positions in towards the screen a few feet and place them outside the outer arms of the sofa.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

One other thing: What version of ARC are you using? And what is the firmware version in your Anthem. To see the ARC version, run ARC in "Advanced" mode and select the About item from the Help menu. If your version of ARC is older than V2.1 you should definitely update to the latest version -- V2.3.


To see the firmware version on your Anthem, press Select once and the version number will come up at the end of the first line of info.

--Bob


----------



## smboyer

V2.3 from anthem's site


----------



## smboyer

Found via google I'm in diploe. Maybe this is the answer


The S30 surround can be used as a dipoleor monopole speaker. A three-position tweeter-level control (-1, 0, +ldB)is also provided, as is a single set of speakerterminals. When switched to dipolo mode,the two 4-inch drivers, mounted on oppo-site angled side faces of the cabinet andwired out-of-phase, provide all of the SHO'soutput above 250Hz. in monopole, thesetwo drivers are silent and the S30's 1-inchdome tweeter reproduces the highs.The S30's high-frequency extension iscurtailed in dipole operation. By just howmuch, Revel does not say—frequency-response specifications are provided onlyfor the monopole mode—but a 4-inch driv-er cannot have the treble response of a 1-inch tweeter. It could be persuasivelyargued that dipole operation emphasizesPerforma C30 center speakerenvelopment, and that extended high-fre-quency response is unnecessary.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17365217
> 
> 
> One other thing: What version of ARC are you using? And what is the firmware version in your Anthem. To see the ARC version, run ARC in "Advanced" mode and select the About item from the Help menu. If your version of ARC is older than V2.1 you should definitely update to the latest version -- V2.3.
> 
> 
> To see the firmware version on your Anthem, press Select once and the version number will come up at the end of the first line of info.
> 
> --Bob



Is Version 2.3 the latest official version? What is the difference between v2.2 and v2.3?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC V2.3 is the latest. There is a text file with the release notes included in the download. There are no changes in 2.2 or 2.3 that affect audio quality. So if your current setup was done with 2.1 or later there is no need to re-Measure. However you should still install 2.3 on your Windows PC now while you are thinking about it.

--Bob


----------



## Summit HDTV

Greetings,


If ARC is run with front speakers set to Large and later changed to Small, should ARC be run again? Processor is D1.


Thanks!


----------



## bluemark81

I sent Anthem an e-mail today asking when we could expect a new software version to be released to take care of the loss of rear channel audio issue. I have not heard back from them yet, but I was wondering if anyone else has heard?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17368606
> 
> 
> I sent Anthem an e-mail today asking when we could expect a new software version to be released to take care of the loss of rear channel audio issue. I have not heard back from them yet, but I was wondering if anyone else has heard?



I asked Nick this several days ago and he said several weeks would be a good bet ie. 3-4 weeks.

John


----------



## wabbit636

can anyone tell me what the room gain in the target menu means? Also, what does the force mean?


When & why should we change the room gain value that ARC calculates?


Thanks


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17366138
> 
> 
> ARC V2.3 is the latest. There is a text file with the release notes included in the download. There are no changes in 2.2 or 2.3 that affect audio quality. So if your current setup was done with 2.1 or later there is no need to re-Measure. However you should still install 2.3 on your Windows PC now while you are thinking about it.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah, I have 2.2 installed.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17363984
> 
> 
> Question? Have any of you tried the Cardas RCA caps on your Anthem Pre/Pro?
> 
> I know with all the input and outputs on the back that don't have anything connected to them, I was wondering if using these would lower the noise floor or not. Has any one tried them on here? Just curious. It is often mentioned as as an inexpensive tweak to improve your stereo. Just wondering if anyone has tried them on an Anthem Pre/Pro



Guess no one has tried RCA Caps on the back of their Anthem. Maybe I'll try them out and report back later whether it makes a difference in SQ.


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17369892
> 
> 
> Guess no one has tried RCA Caps on the back of their Anthem. Maybe I'll try them out and report back later whether it makes a difference in SQ.



I looked into trying this but never got to doing it. Please report back and let us know if it made any difference. There are also XLR caps.


I am very big into tweaks and always looking to get the most from my components.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smboyer* /forum/post/17365091
> 
> 
> Ceiling mounted Revel S30. ISF calibrator mention prob with these in past and have been sent back to Revel once but apparently still not right. They have grill covers on.would that account for the degree of problem I have? Could interacton with ceiling as opposed to more standard side wall be a problem.



The fact that every speaker in your system shows the 10 kHz notch suggests it's not a mic placement issue. What sort of grill is used? Looks like it's about a half inch away from the tweeter, and reflecting back. Can you do a pass with the grills off?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/17369830
> 
> 
> can anyone tell me what the room gain in the target menu means? Also, what does the force mean?
> 
> 
> When & why should we change the room gain value that ARC calculates?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Room Gain is a "desirable" room response characteristic. You'll see it in the ARC charts as the shallow hump in the black dashed Targets curves near the crossover frequencies. ARC detects the natural Room Gain of your room and acts to preserve it even as it is building a solution that removes all the other, UNdesirable room response characteristics.


By preserving the natural Room Gain of your room, events in movie tracks that might also occur naturally in the room (e.g., doors closing or people talking), sound more like those real events happening in the room. So there is a better blend of movie audio and natural audio in the room -- the movie audio sounds more natural.


Movie mixers assume listening rooms will have a modest amount of Room Gain. 2-4 dB is typical. Some rooms will have natural Room Gain as high as 6dB. However if your room is heavily treated with acoustic panelling it may actually be too "flat" in its natural response. Or if you have a significant room cancellation null near the crossovers ARC may have trouble detecting the natural Room Gain of the room. In either case ARC will report a Room Gain closer to 0dB. ARC may also need to use a lower Room Gain if some speakers require too much boost near the crossover frequencies, as setting other speakers to yield the full Room Gain will leave too much residual error for the problem speakers.


The Targets window lets you enter a different Room Gain value. Leave the "Force" box checked and ARC will build that new value into its solution. The Auto Detect button will restore all your Targets values back to what was originally found after Measurement if you want to reset things.


So if ARC finds, say a 1dB Room Gain because of bass treatments in your room, you might find it more pleasing to raise that modestly -- say to 2.5dB.


Then look at the resulting Calculated curves to make sure ARC was actually able to achieve that without problems -- i.e., that there isn't residual error for speakers that already needed boost near that hump but now need too much boost for ARC to produce a clean solution.


If you are still not sure you understand what the Room Gain hump looks like on the charts, try temporarily entering a too large value -- 8 or 10dB -- and see what the curves look like. Be sure to back that out again.


You can do this separately for Movie and Music configurations. Some folks prefer the same sound from Movie and Music and some prefer a flatter sound for Music -- so they might LOWER the Room Gain ARC found by a modest amount, say by 1dB.


Generally what I recommend to people is that if ARC found 2-6dB of Room Gain you leave it alone. If ARC found less than 2dB of Room Gain, raise Movie up to 2 or 2.5dB. Leaving Music in the 1 to 2dB range in that case is probably fine.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17368755
> 
> 
> I asked Nick this several days ago and he said several weeks would be a good bet ie. 3-4 weeks.
> 
> John



Nick tells me they are tackling all of the audio related issues -- presumably this is tied in with getting Dolby Volume out the door. That takes a lot of QA.

--Bob


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17371456
> 
> 
> Room Gain is a "desirable" room response characteristic. You'll see it in the ARC charts as the shallow hump in the black dashed Targets curves near the crossover frequencies. ARC detects the natural Room Gain of your room and acts to preserve it even as it is building a solution that removes all the other, UNdesirable room response characteristics.
> 
> 
> By preserving the natural Room Gain of your room, events in movie tracks that might also occur naturally in the room (e.g., doors closing or people talking), sound more like those real events happening in the room. So there is a better blend of movie audio and natural audio in the room -- the movie audio sounds more natural.
> 
> 
> Movie mixers assume listening rooms will have a modest amount of Room Gain. 2-4 dB is typical. Some rooms will have natural Room Gain as high as 6dB. However if your room is heavily treated with acoustic panelling it may actually be too "flat" in its natural response. Or if you have a significant room cancellation null near the crossovers ARC may have trouble detecting the natural Room Gain of the room. In either case ARC will report a Room Gain closer to 0dB. ARC may also need to use a lower Room Gain if some speakers require too much boost near the crossover frequencies, as setting other speakers to yield the full Room Gain will leave too much residual error for the problem speakers.
> 
> 
> The Targets window lets you enter a different Room Gain value. Leave the "Force" box checked and ARC will build that new value into its solution. The Auto Detect button will restore all your Targets values back to what was originally found after Measurement if you want to reset things.
> 
> 
> So if ARC finds, say a 1dB Room Gain because of bass treatments in your room, you might find it more pleasing to raise that modestly -- say to 2.5dB.
> 
> 
> Then look at the resulting Calculated curves to make sure ARC was actually able to achieve that without problems -- i.e., that there isn't residual error for speakers that already needed boost near that hump but now need too much boost for ARC to produce a clean solution.
> 
> 
> If you are still not sure you understand what the Room Gain hump looks like on the charts, try temporarily entering a too large value -- 8 or 10dB -- and see what the curves look like. Be sure to back that out again.
> 
> 
> You can do this separately for Movie and Music configurations. Some folks prefer the same sound from Movie and Music and some prefer a flatter sound for Music -- so they might LOWER the Room Gain ARC found by a modest amount, say by 1dB.
> 
> 
> Generally what I recommend to people is that if ARC found 2-6dB of Room Gain you leave it alone. If ARC found less than 2dB of Room Gain, raise Movie up to 2 or 2.5dB. Leaving Music in the 1 to 2dB range in that case is probably fine.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob!


My room gain is extremely low and lower than what I have seen posted here....close to 0 db. I just installed room treatment in the front and in the back to catch the back reflections. I will play around with it to see the results.


cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Summit HDTV* /forum/post/17367840
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> If ARC is run with front speakers set to Large and later changed to Small, should ARC be run again? Processor is D1.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



My recommendation is that you run ARC again.


The reason is, there is no way in the current software to get ARC to pick new "cutoffs" and crossovers for you in accordance with your new designation for the speakers.


If you do an Auto Detect in the Targets window, ARC will reset your speakers back to Large -- i.e., return the settings back to what you used when you did the Measurement. And so the Cutoffs (and Room Gain) will all be reset back to what it picked when you did the Measurements with Large speakers designated.


Now the raw Measured data itself doesn't change. So you could set the speakers to Small and then MANUALLY enter your own Cutoff values. But that's gambling that you can guess what will work best for ARC's method of calculating the new solution.


It is better to re-Measure with the speakers now set to Small and let ARC pick the "best" Targets for you. "Best", in the sense that it will work well with ARC's method of calculating the solution.


--------------------------------------


I've already put in a request that Auto Detect be replaced by two new functions in the Targets window -- one that restores things to the way they were after your last Measurement (i.e., just what Auto Detect does now), and another which simply picks new Cutoffs and Crossovers based on the Measured data, but taking into account your CURRENT Targets window settings for speakers Large/Small and any change you have made to Room Gain.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17369892
> 
> 
> Guess no one has tried RCA Caps on the back of their Anthem. Maybe I'll try them out and report back later whether it makes a difference in SQ.



I'm using a rubber cap, off a Fiber Optic bulkhead, which fits perfect. The colors are cool. I have not noticed any sound difference using them, but they do keep the dust out.
Attachment 155371


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17371512
> 
> 
> 
> I've already put in a request that Auto Detect be replaced by two new functions in the Targets window -- one that restores things to the way they were after your last Measurement (i.e., just what Auto Detect does now), and another which simply picks new Cutoffs and Crossovers based on the Measured data, but taking into account your CURRENT Targets window settings for speakers Large/Small and any change you have made to Room Gain.
> 
> --Bob




I would also like to see this feature:


- ability to select/unselect what speakers you want to fix (let's say you measured with 7.1 speakers, then later decided that you are only going to do 5.1, then, you could just de-select the back channels without remeasuring..)


Also good, if you again measured all speakers, but, decided that you don't want a sub anymore, etc... Maybe even, if you just wanted to EQ only 1 channel (like sub only, or center speaker, etc..)



I just hate to have to remeasure everytime I decide not to use a speakers..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/17371659
> 
> 
> I would also like to see this feature:
> 
> 
> - ability to select/unselect what speakers you want to fix (let's say you measured with 7.1 speakers, then later decided that you are only going to do 5.1, then, you could just de-select the back channels without remeasuring..)
> 
> 
> Also good, if you again measured all speakers, but, decided that you don't want a sub anymore, etc... Maybe even, if you just wanted to EQ only 1 channel (like sub only, or center speaker, etc..)
> 
> 
> 
> I just hate to have to remeasure everytime I decide not to use a speakers..



Try this: Put an "n" in the "Cutoff" field of the Targets window. Alternatively, try lowering the Cutoff value one step BELOW 25Hz.


Both of those work when you haven't separately Measured for Music but now check the box to make Music a distinct configuration.


But beware! There's no way to get ARC to automatically pick the best Cutoffs and Crossovers for the remaining speakers. So you are on your own for picking those.

--Bob


----------



## smboyer

1. replaced surrounds (new revel s30)

2. no grill covers.

3. continued position / aiming tweeks on center

4. surrounds in monopole (long story)


any assistance appreciated. My amateur interp is that I'm making prgress but still dip everywhere above 10hz and center (at a loss as what to do with it)


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smboyer* /forum/post/17372384
> 
> 
> 1. replaced surrounds (new revel s30)
> 
> 2. no grill covers.
> 
> 3. continued position / aiming tweeks on center
> 
> 4. surrounds in monopole (long story)
> 
> 
> any assistance appreciated. My amateur interp is that I'm making prgress but still dip everywhere above 10hz and center (at a loss as what to do with it)



Hmmm, curiouser and curiouser. Just as a sanity check, might you have any other bookshelf speakers lying about that you can bring in and hook up--just one? The idea is to run a sweep of that speaker in a more conventional location, and see that the 10 kHz dip isn't there (what would be the chances...). If it is still there, I'd be suspicous of the mic.


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smboyer* /forum/post/17372384
> 
> 
> 1. replaced surrounds (new revel s30)
> 
> 2. no grill covers.
> 
> 3. continued position / aiming tweeks on center
> 
> 4. surrounds in monopole (long story)
> 
> 
> any assistance appreciated. My amateur interp is that I'm making prgress but still dip everywhere above 10hz and center (at a loss as what to do with it)



I had a 10-12db spike around the same frequency for every speaker regardless of mic position. Anthem replaced my Mic and all is well.


Jeremy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/17373008
> 
> 
> I had a 10-12db spike around the same frequency for every speaker regardless of mic position. Anthem replaced my Mic and all is well.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



That's very interesting! How long ago was this? I believe that's the first report we've had here of someone finding a quality problem with their ARC mic -- as opposed to a mic simply being totally unresponsive (electrically DOA) or physically damaged in packing/shipment.


Since the mics are individually tested to generate their serial numbered calibration file, it is pretty unlikely that a mic with a quality problem could make it past that. But of course anything is possible.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17371686
> 
> 
> Try this: Put an "n" in the "Cutoff" field of the Targets window. Alternatively, try lowering the Cutoff value one step BELOW 25Hz.
> 
> 
> Both of those work when you haven't separately Measured for Music but now check the box to make Music a distinct configuration.
> 
> 
> But beware! There's no way to get ARC to automatically pick the best Cutoffs and Crossovers for the remaining speakers. So you are on your own for picking those.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob.. Will have to play with this..










So, just so I understand, if you put n in the place for a cutoff, that speaker will be disregarded?


So, if you wanted the cutoffs set for all other speakers, but did not want the sub touched, just put a n in the cutoff for it, and the sub will be as it would normally without EQ?



Thanks again..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/17373182
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.. Will have to play with this..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, just so I understand, if you put n in the place for a cutoff, that speaker will be disregarded?
> 
> 
> So, if you wanted the cutoffs set for all other speakers, but did not want the sub touched, just put a n in the cutoff for it, and the sub will be as it would normally without EQ?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again..



No that's not what I was saying at all.


If you use the hack I described the Oppo will calculate a solution WITHOUT that speaker.


If you put an "n" for the subwoofer, you will get a solution with no subwoofer at all.


The result is similar to redoing the Measurements for a new configuration without the subwoofer included, except that ARC won't automatically pick crossovers for you for the other speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

I just installed a new projector.

I'm coming from 720 to 1080.

Cable is 8 meter BetterCables HDMI .

The pj takes 1080p/24 and ups that to 96hz.

I set Video 1 to output 1080p/24.

After watching a movie for about 15-20 minutes, the image "hitches" and the motion exhibits severe judder\\stutter.

If I hit pause and then play, then everything is fine again.

I can replay the scene and it doesn't reoccur.

I switched video 1 to 1080p/60, everything is fine all the way through the film.

This is happening on both my PS3 and Tosh A-3.

It's like the pj loses refresh sync with the D2 and starts dropping frames.

I looked at the D2 manual and the only thing I could see that might need changing would be the frame lock setting?

I'm going to check the PS3 settings as well and connect the PS3 directly to the pj. AFAIK there's really nothing to adjust on the A-3.

I searched this forum and the display forums and couldn't find someone describing the same issue using terms like sync\\studder\\judder\\frame lock etc.

Thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17376504
> 
> 
> I just installed a new projector.
> 
> I'm coming from 720 to 1080.
> 
> Cable is 8 meter BetterCables HDMI .
> 
> The pj takes 1080p/24 and ups that to 96hz.
> 
> I set Video 1 to output 1080p/24.
> 
> After watching a movie for about 15-20 minutes, the image "hitches" and the motion exhibits severe judder\\stutter.
> 
> If I hit pause and then play, then everything is fine again.
> 
> I can replay the scene and it doesn't reoccur.
> 
> I switched video 1 to 1080p/60, everything is fine all the way through the film.
> 
> This is happening on both my PS3 and Tosh A-3.
> 
> It's like the pj loses refresh sync with the D2 and starts dropping frames.
> 
> I looked at the D2 manual and the only thing I could see that might need changing would be the frame lock setting?
> 
> I'm going to check the PS3 settings as well and connect the PS3 directly to the pj. AFAIK there's really nothing to adjust on the A-3.
> 
> I searched this forum and the display forums and couldn't find someone describing the same issue using terms like sync\\studder\\judder\\frame lock etc.
> 
> Thanks.



Is the MOVIE a Blu-Ray or just DVD?


----------



## bluemark81

A while back I posted a question wondering why the AVM50v was 4 lbs heavier than the D2v. While I was corresponding with Anthem on some issues, I asked them the question. The answer is because the AVM50v has a steel cover where the D2v has an aluminum cover. Just in case anyone was as curious as me.


----------



## Milt99

Hi Doc.

Blu-ray and HD DVD

The "Enable 1080p/24" in the PS3 was set to off.

That must be the default because I've never touched it.

Anyway, turned it to AUTO and turned Frame Lock ON in the D2.

I need to check the HD DVD forum because AFAIR, there's no way to

change the frame rate on the A-3 which seems very odd so my memory must be faulty. Wouldn't be the first time... or the last.

It must something in the settings I'm missing as I can't find anyone having issues like this with a JVC RS pj or there's an issue with the internal processing\

efresh multiplier in the JVC.

I've got a movie going now on the PS3 to see if what I'm guessing is frame dropping\\cadence loss\

efresh sync reoccurs.

Thanks.


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17371512
> 
> 
> My recommendation is that you run ARC again.
> 
> 
> The reason is, there is no way in the current software to get ARC to pick new "cutoffs" and crossovers for you in accordance with your new designation for the speakers.
> 
> 
> If you do an Auto Detect in the Targets window, ARC will reset your speakers back to Large -- i.e., return the settings back to what you used when you did the Measurement. And so the Cutoffs (and Room Gain) will all be reset back to what it picked when you did the Measurements with Large speakers designated.
> 
> 
> Now the raw Measured data itself doesn't change. So you could set the speakers to Small and then MANUALLY enter your own Cutoff values. But that's gambling that you can guess what will work best for ARC's method of calculating the new solution.
> 
> 
> It is better to re-Measure with the speakers now set to Small and let ARC pick the "best" Targets for you. "Best", in the sense that it will work well with ARC's method of calculating the solution.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I've already put in a request that Auto Detect be replaced by two new functions in the Targets window -- one that restores things to the way they were after your last Measurement (i.e., just what Auto Detect does now), and another which simply picks new Cutoffs and Crossovers based on the Measured data, but taking into account your CURRENT Targets window settings for speakers Large/Small and any change you have made to Room Gain.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob! Will do.


Regards


----------



## Milt99

Sooo..... far no issues with Dark Knight after 70+ minutes.

Turned off Frame Lock and plugged in Brave Heart.

So far so good there too.

My take on the frame lock thing is that is it enables\\disables a video buffer to help reduce input\

esponse lag in video games.


So if I have this right:

PS3 - 1080p/24 D2 will process this as it should.

A3 - since the player can only output 1080i, I have to set a separate Video config that outputs 1080p/60 to the pj as the Gennum cannot correctly translate the incoming signal.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smboyer* /forum/post/17372384
> 
> 
> 1. replaced surrounds (new revel s30)
> 
> 2. no grill covers.
> 
> 3. continued position / aiming tweeks on center
> 
> 4. surrounds in monopole (long story)
> 
> 
> any assistance appreciated. My amateur interp is that I'm making prgress but still dip everywhere above 10hz and center (at a loss as what to do with it)



Can you post some pictures on how the surround speakers are mounted? In my case, when I measure ceiling speakers, the measuring mic is placed on the floor to minimize reflections. If you put the mic in between the floor and the ceiling, the reflection will affect the measurement.


I am not saying that you should do this, but this might be the reason why you have a huge and wide dip starting at 2khz.


----------



## dweltman

This whole room gain thing is very interesting to me. Any references on the internet where I can learn about this? (Aside from BP's wisdom of course). I am wondering whether folks who master music records factor in room gain into their work also. If you are listening to an SACD of an orchestra, how does room gain model bringing you into the space where the music was recorded? ARC recomends a room gain of 3.8 for my room, how does it decide that? And how much less might I want to make the Music setting?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17371456
> 
> 
> Room Gain is a "desirable" room response characteristic. You'll see it in the ARC charts as the shallow hump in the black dashed Targets curves near the crossover frequencies. ARC detects the natural Room Gain of your room and acts to preserve it even as it is building a solution that removes all the other, UNdesirable room response characteristics.
> 
> 
> By preserving the natural Room Gain of your room, events in movie tracks that might also occur naturally in the room (e.g., doors closing or people talking), sound more like those real events happening in the room. So there is a better blend of movie audio and natural audio in the room -- the movie audio sounds more natural.
> 
> 
> Movie mixers assume listening rooms will have a modest amount of Room Gain. 2-4 dB is typical. Some rooms will have natural Room Gain as high as 6dB. However if your room is heavily treated with acoustic panelling it may actually be too "flat" in its natural response. Or if you have a significant room cancellation null near the crossovers ARC may have trouble detecting the natural Room Gain of the room. In either case ARC will report a Room Gain closer to 0dB. ARC may also need to use a lower Room Gain if some speakers require too much boost near the crossover frequencies, as setting other speakers to yield the full Room Gain will leave too much residual error for the problem speakers.
> 
> 
> The Targets window lets you enter a different Room Gain value. Leave the "Force" box checked and ARC will build that new value into its solution. The Auto Detect button will restore all your Targets values back to what was originally found after Measurement if you want to reset things.
> 
> 
> So if ARC finds, say a 1dB Room Gain because of bass treatments in your room, you might find it more pleasing to raise that modestly -- say to 2.5dB.
> 
> 
> Then look at the resulting Calculated curves to make sure ARC was actually able to achieve that without problems -- i.e., that there isn't residual error for speakers that already needed boost near that hump but now need too much boost for ARC to produce a clean solution.
> 
> 
> If you are still not sure you understand what the Room Gain hump looks like on the charts, try temporarily entering a too large value -- 8 or 10dB -- and see what the curves look like. Be sure to back that out again.
> 
> 
> You can do this separately for Movie and Music configurations. Some folks prefer the same sound from Movie and Music and some prefer a flatter sound for Music -- so they might LOWER the Room Gain ARC found by a modest amount, say by 1dB.
> 
> 
> Generally what I recommend to people is that if ARC found 2-6dB of Room Gain you leave it alone. If ARC found less than 2dB of Room Gain, raise Movie up to 2 or 2.5dB. Leaving Music in the 1 to 2dB range in that case is probably fine.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## doc4140

I have been lurking and had the AVM 50 for several years and recently added the upgrade board and ARC for the AVM 50. Did many ARC readings and have several questions.

1. Is it normal to have noise in only the left channels when you first get into the setup menu of the AVM 50? I get like hash only coming out of the left side and then after getting into the menu it will go away.

2. I have large speakers- Duntech Sovereigns for the FR and FL and a smaller Duntech Viscount for Center. New JL F113 subwoofer. Should you tell the advanced ARC target to go full range or put in 25hz for a fixed crossover to force the full range on the fronts. I sometimes dont get the full depth of the fronts when I let the ARC pick the crossover. Also the bottom end seems anemic when it is flat after the correction. You almost want to boost the bottom end about 5db higher to help out the bass in movies and music DVDs.


----------



## doc4140

I calibrated the subwoofer using the JL f113 program first before running the ARC. I set the crossover on the front of the sub arbitrarily to 80hz and ran the ARC using detect, 5K max eq. I changed the target to 2.5 gain- force , 20K max eq and full range x over for the fronts. Maybe I should have defeated the EQ on the F113 sub and raise the crossover to a higher hz on the sub, but when I saw the graph I thought it was OK. What do you think?


What should the setting be in the AVM50 for advanced settings- bypass LFE crossover-- Yes or NO?


----------



## doc4140

Forgot to attach the ARC results


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/17371554
> 
> 
> I'm using a rubber cap, off a Fiber Optic bulkhead, which fits perfect. The colors are cool. I have not noticed any sound difference using them, but they do keep the dust out.
> Attachment 155371



Thanks for the photo of the back of your Anthem Donloz. I don't think a rubber cap would shield and prevent both EMI and RFI like Brass and Nickel would. But like you said it does keep the dust out.


----------



## ironcorn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doc4140* /forum/post/17378075
> 
> 
> Also the bottom end seems anemic when it is flat after the correction. You almost want to boost the bottom end about 5db higher to help out the bass in movies and music DVDs.



I was about to post the same thing. To me, ACR stole my bass, or rather blended it very well with the fronts, too well. It did this by pulling 10.5 db from my single F113. My room is large and I can only get the SPL meter safely to about 55 db with the sub's volume control. I'm getting ready to add a second F113, but am wondering if ACR will take the sub level down even further. For movies, LFE is gone, no impact. For music, about the same, the sweet bass from my B&W 802's is gone (ACR crosses them over at 60hz) and the sub is barely there. Now, I understand that maybe this is how it is supposed to sound, but I like bass you can feel, not strain to hear.


This weekend I added 5 db back and things are sounding better, to me anyway.


----------



## doc4140

OK, try this. After running the ARC, get some Y connectors and run the sub off the main outputs from the processor and then go into the setup and tell the processor that there is no sub so all the LFE is sent to the fronts. I got alot more bass but defeated the ARC program intentions by tricking the processor to run the fronts full range and the LFE is also sent to the sub. Another way is to tell the target in the ARC to go down to 25 hz for the fronts which is the lowest you can go and see what you think. Let me know about running 2 F113. I love the one but I guess you would run the second as a slave off the first one?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ironcorn* /forum/post/17379067
> 
> 
> I was about to post the same thing. To me, ACR stole my bass, or rather blended it very well with the fronts, too well. It did this by pulling 10.5 db from my single F113. My room is large and I can only get the SPL meter safely to about 55 db with the sub's volume control. I'm getting ready to add a second F113, but am wondering if ACR will take the sub level down even further. For movies, LFE is gone, no impact. For music, about the same, the sweet bass from my B&W 802's is gone (ACR crosses them over at 60hz) and the sub is barely there. Now, I understand that maybe this is how it is supposed to sound, but I like bass you can feel, not strain to hear.
> 
> 
> This weekend I added 5 db back and things are sounding better, to me anyway.



First of all, it's ARC (Anthem Room Correction), not ACR.


Post your charts. If your sub has an amp problem, or is too small for the room, ARC will only attempt to add about 6dB of boost to keep from stressing the sub amp. Subwoofers work by pressurizing the entire room. They need to move a lot of air to do that. So proper sub sizing is essential for good sub performance.


ARC can't make the sub do what its not capable of doing. It sounds to me like you are used to a configuration where your main speakers run full range and the sub doesn't really contribute much of anything.


The red Measured curves in the ARC charts will show what your sub is capable of doing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doc4140* /forum/post/17378075
> 
> 
> I have been lurking and had the AVM 50 for several years and recently added the upgrade board and ARC for the AVM 50. Did many ARC readings and have several questions.
> 
> 1. Is it normal to have noise in only the left channels when you first get into the setup menu of the AVM 50? I get like hash only coming out of the left side and then after getting into the menu it will go away.
> 
> 2. I have large speakers- Duntech Sovereigns for the FR and FL and a smaller Duntech Viscount for Center. New JL F113 subwoofer. Should you tell the advanced ARC target to go full range or put in 25hz for a fixed crossover to force the full range on the fronts. I sometimes dont get the full depth of the fronts when I let the ARC pick the crossover. Also the bottom end seems anemic when it is flat after the correction. You almost want to boost the bottom end about 5db higher to help out the bass in movies and music DVDs.



1) If I understand what you are saying, no that is not normal. Give Anthem tech support a call. They may ask you to re-install the firmware.


2) I'll look at the charts you posted in a bit. But generally, if you have a decent sub my recommendation is that you do NOT run your fronts Full Range. The front speakers may be able to go down that low at modest volume, but a decent sub will almost certainly do a better job down there at higher volumes.


If you are having problems with your ARC results, check two things first: Make sure you have gone into Setup > Source Setup and turned Room EQ = ON for each Source so that ARC is enabled for each Source. And revisit the instructions in the Manual for proper placement of the ARC mic during Measurements.


In addition, make sure you haven't accidentally changed the settings ARC has Uploaded into your Setup menu -- as for example by doing a Reload Saved User or Installer Settings when you haven't previously saved the ARC Uploaded results into those memories first. If you are not certain about this, re-open your current ARC results file in ARC's "Advanced" mode and redo the Upload. Then, after checking Setup to see that things now look correct, do a Save User and Installer Settings to capture those changes and avoid making this mistake again.


Finally, make sure you don't have any "temporary" level adjustments made for any Sources (the adjustments you can make using the level buttons on the remote). To clear ALL of the temporary adjustments at once:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults -- continue using the front panel display if you lose video

3) Reload Saved User Settings


Since the "temporary" settings are not saved, this clears all of them for all Sources simultaneously.

--Bob


----------



## wse

Has any one compared the sound on these two pre/pro?


Classe SSP-800 compared to Anthem STATEMENT D2v


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doc4140* /forum/post/17378705
> 
> 
> I calibrated the subwoofer using the JL f113 program first before running the ARC. I set the crossover on the front of the sub arbitrarily to 80hz and ran the ARC using detect, 5K max eq. I changed the target to 2.5 gain- force , 20K max eq and full range x over for the fronts. Maybe I should have defeated the EQ on the F113 sub and raise the crossover to a higher hz on the sub, but when I saw the graph I thought it was OK. What do you think?
> 
> 
> What should the setting be in the AVM50 for advanced settings- bypass LFE crossover-- Yes or NO?



OK, several mistakes here.


First of all you don't want ANY crossover processing to happen inside the sub. Either disable the sub's internal crossover completely or set it to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.


Second, you can't just switch the front speakers to Full Range after the fact without screwing up ARC's solution. Setting them to Full Range means no bass steering will happen from them to the Subwoofer, but ARC has previously determined to start rolling them off at 60Hz as part of its room correction solution.


If you want to run your fronts Full Range, tell that to ARC *BEFORE* doing the Measurement as part of the configuration setup it asks you for when you tell it to do a Measurement -- this is not the Targets window.


If you tell ARC for Measurement that you want the fronts to be Full Range, then the only bass that will go to the sub will be LFE and bass steered to it from the surrounds.


From the charts you posted separately, the sub is Measuring strangely, so I'm not sure whatever EQ stuff you did inside the sub is actually helping.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doc4140* /forum/post/17380181
> 
> 
> OK, try this. After running the ARC, get some Y connectors and run the sub off the main outputs from the processor and then go into the setup and tell the processor that there is no sub so all the LFE is sent to the fronts. I got alot more bass but defeated the ARC program intentions by tricking the processor to run the fronts full range and the LFE is also sent to the sub. Another way is to tell the target in the ARC to go down to 25 hz for the fronts which is the lowest you can go and see what you think. Let me know about running 2 F113. I love the one but I guess you would run the second as a slave off the first one?



I'm not sure I understand precisely what you've done here, but it sounds VERY wrong.


There's no point in using ARC if you are then going to change the speaker configuration out from under it. It's Measurements will no longer be valid, and the room correction solution it has produced will no longer apply.

--bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doc4140* /forum/post/17378708
> 
> 
> Forgot to attach the ARC results



I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking at here based on your other posts.


I think you should disable the EQ in your subwoofer and I think you should also disable the crossover in your subwoofer, and you should Measure again. Your subwoofer's red Measured curve has problems right now, and I don't know how much of that is due to whatever its built-in EQ and crossover are doing. Some of it is likely room response -- e.g., the room resonance near 40Hz that's also showing up in the other speaker charts.


-----------------------------


Both LF and RF are too hot in bass, particularly compared to low midrange. If you are used to to their uncorrected sound, that may explain why you think bass is weak now. You've got an 18dB swing in LF between 40Hz and 150Hz. That's huge. Although ARC has corrected a lot of that, the Measured curves really need to be tamed either by re-positioning or addition of some bass traps on the walls/corners behind them. It would be helpful to see ARC's Calculated results BEFORE you went in and changed the Targets setting to Full Range.


See if LF/RF have a bass output configuration adjustment -- e.g. a bass port you can close. You also have a room resonance near 40Hz and at that frequency even a few inches of repositioning will change how the speakers couple to the room. Try moving them further out from the nearest wall/corner.


My recommendation is that you do NOT run LF/RF as "Full Range".


Recheck the pointing for all 4 of your surrounds -- particularly the vertical pointing. Even a small improvement in treble Measured values will suffice to let ARC do complete correction.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17378043
> 
> 
> This whole room gain thing is very interesting to me. Any references on the internet where I can learn about this? (Aside from BP's wisdom of course). I am wondering whether folks who master music records factor in room gain into their work also. If you are listening to an SACD of an orchestra, how does room gain model bringing you into the space where the music was recorded? ARC recomends a room gain of 3.8 for my room, how does it decide that? And how much less might I want to make the Music setting?



My recommendation is that you DON'T lower the Room Gain for Music. You are in a reasonable range right now.


If your room Measures small for Room Gain (around 1dB or less), I recommend raising it a bit for Movie but not for Music.


These are very much in the category of fine tweaks.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17377093
> 
> 
> Sooo..... far no issues with Dark Knight after 70+ minutes.
> 
> Turned off Frame Lock and plugged in Brave Heart.
> 
> So far so good there too.
> 
> My take on the frame lock thing is that is it enables\\disables a video buffer to help reduce input\
> 
> esponse lag in video games.
> 
> 
> So if I have this right:
> 
> PS3 - 1080p/24 D2 will process this as it should.
> 
> A3 - since the player can only output 1080i, I have to set a separate Video config that outputs 1080p/60 to the pj as the Gennum cannot correctly translate the incoming signal.



Reverse telecine (1080i/60 or 480i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion) does not function well enough to be used in the D2 or AVM 50. The D2v and AVM 50v do it better.

--Bob


----------



## doc4140

I will do exactly what you have recommended and see if there is any change. I will defeat the correction in the sub and raise the crossover in the sub to the highest possible. I am using a Krell external Crossover unit made for the Duntechs that can adjust only the high end and the low end of the LF and RF. I can tame the low end some. The surrounds are wall mounted and no adjustment possible.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doc4140* /forum/post/17380963
> 
> 
> I will do exactly what you have recommended and see if there is any change. I will defeat the correction in the sub and raise the crossover in the sub to the highest possible. I am using a Krell external Crossover unit made for the Duntechs that can adjust only the high end and the low end of the LF and RF. I can tame the low end some. The surrounds are wall mounted and no adjustment possible.



The residual error in the surrounds is small, so no big deal on that.


Adjusting the external crossover for LF/RF could be a big help. What you want to do is emphasize low mid range and lower deep bass a bit.


You might want to start by taking a Measurement with that external crossover disabled or disconnected just to see what the native response is for these speakers in this room. It may turn out that ARC can do ALL the work here.


In general, if ARC can do all the necessary correction, it is better to do it that way and eliminate extra processing steps.


If you've got thorny response problems with some speakers, then room treatments or a specialized external EQ may help.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Some older versions of D2 and D2v firmware have been placed on Anthem's password protected download page this afternoon (Link 7 "Test 2").


D2 V1.21d from October, 2007

D2 V1.31 from March, 2008

D2v V2.04 from March, 2009


Presumably these have been put up to help some folks in diagnosing specific problems.

--Bob


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17373118
> 
> 
> That's very interesting! How long ago was this? I believe that's the first report we've had here of someone finding a quality problem with their ARC mic -- as opposed to a mic simply being totally unresponsive (electrically DOA) or physically damaged in packing/shipment.
> 
> 
> Since the mics are individually tested to generate their serial numbered calibration file, it is pretty unlikely that a mic with a quality problem could make it past that. But of course anything is possible.
> 
> --Bob



When the ARC-1 kit was first released.


Jeremy


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ah! OK. Quite some time ago then.

--Bob


----------



## doc4140

Here are the new measurements. I defeated the correction in the JL sub and raise the crossover to max. Zero'd everything and started with new measurements. Adjusted the front crossover slightly and turned them out about 1" and moved from the wall about 1inch. Started at 5K detect and let it rip. Got 0000.0 gain with the first set. Raised correction to 15K and here are the charts.


See next post = the correction after raising the gain to 2.5.


----------



## doc4140

Here are the Charts after raising the gain to 2.5


----------



## doc4140

By the way, is it OK to raise the gain without remeasuring like I did?


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doc4140* /forum/post/17384883
> 
> 
> By the way, is it OK to raise the gain without remeasuring like I did?



Yes, you can make adjustments on the pc to see what the results will look like before uploading, then upload the best looking results to the D2v...


----------



## erikno

Hello, I had a conversation with one of the Burmester people who told me that their new stuff for multichannel will be out next year, using HDMI 1.4. He stated that the 1.3 std was to unreliable, which I think we all have more or less experienced.


Now the question remains, will Anthem provide a upgrade to HDMI 1.4, to solve our issues (and making room for 4K picture ++...?) for our beloved D2v's?


Any thoughts?


Erik


----------



## obie_fl

Lets see HDMI1.4 adds Ethernet, Return Audio Channel, 3D, 4K by 2K resolution, more color spaces. Yep sounds like the road to reliability to me.







I don't see how any of these new features address any short comings people are presently experiencing. It is more of a future proofing then anything else but adding complicated features to an already complicated interface is a sure bet instability is here to stay.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wse* /forum/post/17380537
> 
> 
> Has any one compared the sound on these two pre/pro?
> 
> 
> Classe SSP-800 compared to Anthem STATEMENT D2v



I haven't compared them but a friend of mine that trust did and sound quality could be sligth edge on the Classe for some content but this is more based on personal tastes. For this you should personally try them ideally in your setup to be able decide which one fit better your taste.


That being said, that friend finally bought the D2V because he had difficulty to get a stable HDMI setup with the SSP-800. The SSP-800 is way too much buggy to be usable was is comments.


----------



## wse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17387361
> 
> 
> I haven't compared them but a friend of mine that trust did and sound quality could be sligth edge on the Classe for some content but this is more based on personal tastes. For this you should personally try them ideally in your setup to be able decide which one fit better your taste.
> 
> 
> That being said, that friend finally bought the D2V because he had difficulty to get a stable HDMI setup with the SSP-800. The SSP-800 is way too much buggy to be usable was is comments.



Yes it seems that Classé is very buggy and that is unfortunate, but they are responding to customers and releasing new software regularly










I wish I could hear both but don't have a dealer that carries both or even will loan them!


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doc4140* /forum/post/17384742
> 
> 
> Here are the Charts after raising the gain to 2.5



Observations:


1, You have a peak mode of 36 hertz

2, You need to increase noise level by 3 dB for more accurate measurements

3, Null or lack of energy between between 90 and 300 hertz. Quite wide, around 2.5 octaves.

4, Your listening position relative to your speaker placement might not be the best as shown with your LF and RF measurements.

5, Even by increasing the Room gain by 2.5, ARC is finding it hard to increase output at 90-300 because of the problem in this region.

6, Sub placement is also not optimum as shown by lack of output after 60 hertz.


----------



## doc4140




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17390169
> 
> 
> Observations:
> 
> 
> 1, You have a peak mode of 36 hertz
> 
> 2, You need to increase noise level by 3 dB for more accurate measurements
> 
> 3, Null or lack of energy between between 90 and 300 hertz. Quite wide, around 2.5 octaves.
> 
> 4, Your listening position relative to your speaker placement might not be the best as shown with your LF and RF measurements.
> 
> 5, Even by increasing the Room gain by 2.5, ARC is finding it hard to increase output at 90-300 because of the problem in this region.
> 
> 6, Sub placement is also not optimum as shown by lack of output after 60 hertz.



What usually causes this type of peak mode at about 36 hz? I can increase the noise level and try again but I have a lot of sound abdorbing panels on the walls and the entire rear of the room is covered in Foam egg crate. THere are bass traps behind the fronts in the corners. Could the abdorbing material select out these frequencies?


----------



## Cutler

I am on the fence regarding the d2v upgrade now...I have a D1 with ARC, I am considering selling it and picking up a used d2v for $5k or so, as a few have popped up on audiogon.....


Any thoughts or feedback of folks in similar situations? The upgrade cost from Anthem is pretty steep when I was told originally it was going to be in the $2k to $2.5k range...they may have lost a customer based on this pricing....I do love my d1 and p5 though....


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I have a D1 and ARC as well. I have a scope screen and would like to have a better scaler situation since the one in my PJ is shall we say sloppy with the edges at best. I have considered an outboard scaler but looking at those forums leads one to believe that the Anthem code is at least as stable as found on dedicated video hardware. Plus you have integration issues and so forth. I really feel that the Anthem DXX delivers exceptional audio quality having tried a Sony ES and AVM 30 on the same speakers and room previously with disappointing results. So what to do? Really had not planned on spending the kind of coin that a D2v commands but I do think that it will last for a while functionally where there were a couple of things about the D2 that made me wait. I would also like to upgrade my v3 Studio 100's but that is another story. I really think the best route for me is to sell the D1 and get a new D2v from a dealer. I really am not comfortable with a 7,500 piece with no warranty bought from an unknown source.


Do not think I helped but from someone in the same spot that is what I am thinking.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cutler* /forum/post/17390878
> 
> 
> I am on the fence regarding the d2v upgrade now...I have a D1 with ARC, I am considering selling it and picking up a used d2v for $5k or so, as a few have popped up on audiogon.....
> 
> 
> Any thoughts or feedback of folks in similar situations? The upgrade cost from Anthem is pretty steep when I was told originally it was going to be in the $2k to $2.5k range...they may have lost a customer based on this pricing....I do love my d1 and p5 though....


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17387208
> 
> 
> Lets see HDMI1.4 adds Ethernet, Return Audio Channel, 3D, 4K by 2K resolution, more color spaces. Yep sounds like the road to reliability to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see how any of these new features address any short comings people are presently experiencing. It is more of a future proofing then anything else but adding complicated features to an already complicated interface is a sure bet instability is here to stay.



HDMI and reliability can not be in the same paragraph.














Ha!.... and judging by your rolleyes you agree.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cutler* /forum/post/17390878
> 
> 
> I am on the fence regarding the d2v upgrade now...I have a D1 with ARC, I am considering selling it and picking up a used d2v for $5k or so, as a few have popped up on audiogon.....
> 
> 
> Any thoughts or feedback of folks in similar situations? The upgrade cost from Anthem is pretty steep when I was told originally it was going to be in the $2k to $2.5k range...they may have lost a customer based on this pricing....I do love my d1 and p5 though....



I'm 50-50 on upgrading to the D2V. The price is pretty hefty. I am guessing Anthem looked at it and thought they could not afford to take the hit financially

for modest price upgrade.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cutler* /forum/post/17390878
> 
> 
> I am on the fence regarding the d2v upgrade now...I have a D1 with ARC, I am considering selling it and picking up a used d2v for $5k or so, as a few have popped up on audiogon.....
> 
> 
> Any thoughts or feedback of folks in similar situations? The upgrade cost from Anthem is pretty steep when I was told originally it was going to be in the $2k to $2.5k range...they may have lost a customer based on this pricing....I do love my d1 and p5 though....



$5K is too much for a used D2V. Dealers discount these things and with a new one you get a warranty plus dealer support.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/17391234
> 
> 
> I have a D1 and ARC as well. I have a scope screen and would like to have a better scaler situation since the one in my PJ is shall we say sloppy with the edges at best. I have considered an outboard scaler but looking at those forums leads one to believe that the Anthem code is at least as stable as found on dedicated video hardware. Plus you have integration issues and so forth. I really feel that the Anthem DXX delivers exceptional audio quality having tried a Sony ES and AVM 30 on the same speakers and room previously with disappointing results. So what to do? Really had not planned on spending the kind of coin that a D2v commands but I do think that it will last for a while functionally where there were a couple of things about the D2 that made me wait. I would also like to upgrade my v3 Studio 100's but that is another story. I really think the best route for me is to sell the D1 and get a new D2v from a dealer. I really am not comfortable with a 7,500 piece with no warranty bought from an unknown source.
> 
> 
> Do not think I helped but from someone in the same spot that is what I am thinking.



When I purchased my D2v it put my iscanVP50pro scaler out of business. Will sell cheap, cheap.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doc4140* /forum/post/17390666
> 
> 
> What usually causes this type of peak mode at about 36 hz? I can increase the noise level and try again but I have a lot of sound abdorbing panels on the walls and the entire rear of the room is covered in Foam egg crate. THere are bass traps behind the fronts in the corners. Could the abdorbing material select out these frequencies?



Most rooms have a predominant mode, in my case its 29 hertz. In your case I would even try to increase your active crossover by several dB just to see if it can increase your LF/RF 90-350 hertz. If this does not improve the situation, I suggest you do a lot of heavy lifting and move your speakers a foot in all direction( I would try to widen the space between the L/RF first to increase midbass)) and try ARC again. Uncheck the surrounds and center channel so that ARC will measure only the LF RF and Sub. Try to put the sub at 1/4 of the width of your room. When you have found the optimum configuration, do a final ARC measure for all the speakers.


Actually we have the same dillema, moving my speakers improved my measurements and I was able to increase Room gain by 3.5 dB (LF/RF were able to track the target curve), yes I too have a gain of 0.00. The sound was much better this way.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Any thing(s) that you preferred the external scaler for as opposed to the D2v?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17395160
> 
> 
> When I purchased my D2v it put my iscanVP50pro scaler out of business. Will sell cheap, cheap.


----------



## doc4140




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17397046
> 
> 
> Most rooms have a predominant mode, in my case its 29 hertz. In your case I would even try to increase your active crossover by several dB just to see if it can increase your LF/RF 90-350 hertz. If this does not improve the situation, I suggest you do a lot of heavy lifting and move your speakers a foot in all direction( I would try to widen the space between the L/RF first to increase midbass)) and try ARC again. Uncheck the surrounds and center channel so that ARC will measure only the LF RF and Sub. Try to put the sub at 1/4 of the width of your room. When you have found the optimum configuration, do a final ARC measure for all the speakers.
> 
> 
> Actually we have the same dillema, moving my speakers improved my measurements and I was able to increase Room gain by 3.5 dB (LF/RF were able to track the target curve), yes I too have a gain of 0.00. The sound was much better this way.



Thanks! Will try the changes but the room is 13 feet wide and the speakers are about 1 foot from the sides now toed in pointing to the central listening chair. Great advice to uncheck the other speakers to shorten the time of the checks! The crossover that I have from Krell is a KRX-3 but no instructions and I dont know what the crossover is inside the unit. I need to adjust it trial and error to see if I can get a change in the 90-350 range.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doc4140* /forum/post/17397873
> 
> 
> Thanks! Will try the changes but the room is 13 feet wide and the speakers are about 1 foot from the sides now toed in pointing to the central listening chair. Great advice to uncheck the other speakers to shorten the time of the checks! The crossover that I have from Krell is a KRX-3 but no instructions and I dont know what the crossover is inside the unit. I need to adjust it trial and error to see if I can get a change in the 90-350 range.



LF/RF should not be towed in to point directly at the listening position and they should be about 3 feet from the side and 3 feet from the rear walls.

Someone correct me if I am wrong.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doc4140* /forum/post/17390666
> 
> 
> What usually causes this type of peak mode at about 36 hz? I can increase the noise level and try again but I have a lot of sound abdorbing panels on the walls and the entire rear of the room is covered in Foam egg crate. THere are bass traps behind the fronts in the corners. Could the abdorbing material select out these frequencies?



Both peaks and nulls in the low bass region are typically caused by room modes.


Bass traps tend to smooth these out and NOT act at any specific frequency (except for tuned resonator type bass traps - and those are unheard of in home theaters).


The foam egg crate is doing nothing good at all for your sound. It's not an effective absorber or diffuser.


Do the bass traps in front fill the entire corners? They should, to be very effective.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17398013
> 
> 
> LF/RF should not be towed in to point directly at the listening position and they should be about 3 feet from the side and 3 feet from the rear walls.
> 
> Someone correct me if I am wrong.



I would agree with the toe-in, often speakers work much better with drivers pointed 1/2 way or less towards the listening position.


Agree also with moving the speakers away from the side and *front* walls, although 3 feet might be excessive. Your speakers are probably coupling to the room (which has inconsistent bass response - peaks here, nulls there).


----------



## WildZero




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/17397592
> 
> 
> Any thing(s) that you preferred the external scaler for as opposed to the D2v?



I had a VP50 (not a "pro" though) before i bought the D2v. Sold the VP50, so far i do not miss anything.

IMHO the scaler in the D2v is really excellent. I even had less trouble connecting some of my sources (Hi-Vision LD Player)

to the D2v then i had connecting those to the VP50. Maybe you could miss the BNC connectors?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/17397592
> 
> 
> Any thing(s) that you preferred the external scaler for as opposed to the D2v?




My handshake wasn't as long with the Pro, I think the D2v does a better job with SD and I think the Pro did a better job with HD. That said, I have yet to calibrate. John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/17398272
> 
> 
> I had a VP50 (not a "pro" though) before i bought the D2v. Sold the VP50, so far i do not miss anything.
> 
> IMHO the scaler in the D2v is really excellent. I even had less trouble connecting some of my sources (Hi-Vision LD Player)
> 
> to the D2v then i had connecting those to the VP50. Maybe you could miss the BNC connectors?



I do miss the BNC connectors as I had a VGA to BNC for my lap top on the big screen.


----------



## bluemark81

As many of us are aware, with 2.07g, we cannot get audio from the rear channels in a 7.1 system from Dolby True HD disks. Can someone explain why I am able to get audio out of these channels with Dolby Digital? Isn't it the same core audio codec?


----------



## programmergeek

Question about sound dropping out on my D2v. I just got a D2v several months ago and the sound dropps out from my tivo series 3 when I fast foward/rewind and I can never get it back with out turing the thing off and on. I am using digital coax as a connection and componment.


I talked to Anthum about this and they had me set my muting to min but htat didn't cure the issue they tried a update but then found out I had a bad video board so the unit is now out for repair. I didn't know I dont use the video. In any case any idea how to cure the audio issue the tech I talked to at Anthum knew of the issue but was a bit stumped it seems and just blamed it on brocast. But my tivo worked fine with 3 other processors I have.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17400069
> 
> 
> As many of us are aware, with 2.07g, we cannot get audio from the rear channels in a 7.1 system from Dolby True HD disks. Can someone explain why I am able to get audio out of these channels with Dolby Digital? Isn't it the same core audio codec?



DD is limited to 5.1 max. When DD 5.1 comes in, the D2v is probably activating PLIIx to derive the back channels. When HDMI signals a 7.1 stream, the D2 knows not to apply PLIIx--it cannot make 7.1 out of 7.1. The erroneously silent back channels are being reproduced faithfully.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/17400618
> 
> 
> Question about sound dropping out on my D2v. I just got a D2v several months ago and the sound dropps out from my tivo series 3 when I fast foward/rewind and I can never get it back with out turing the thing off and on. I am using digital coax as a connection and componment.
> 
> 
> I talked to Anthum about this and they had me set my muting to min but htat didn't cure the issue they tried a update but then found out I had a bad video board so the unit is now out for repair. I didn't know I dont use the video. In any case any idea how to cure the audio issue the tech I talked to at Anthum knew of the issue but was a bit stumped it seems and just blamed it on brocast. But my tivo worked fine with 3 other processors I have.




My D2v has done it also, I found that if I rewind or fast forward only one speed at a time, without changing from slower forward to a faster forward and then down again, I will not lose sound.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17400748
> 
> 
> DD is limited to 5.1 max. When DD 5.1 comes in, the D2v is probably activating PLIIx to derive the back channels. When HDMI signals a 7.1 stream, the D2 knows not to apply PLIIx--it cannot make 7.1 out of 7.1. The erroneously silent back channels are being reproduced faithfully.



What if it is Dolby True HD 5.1?


And speaking of 5.1 True HD and 5.1 DTS-MA, How does the Anthem even know to apply a signal to the rear channels anyway where these two audio codecs are not included in the Mode Preset screen for us to tell it what to do if you have a 7.1 setup?


----------



## programmergeek

yes (studlygoorite) that helps but unfortinally how many time do I have to hit the redwing 30 sec button or repeat a play or because I fast forwarded to far then it is Russian rulet. Trouble is rebooting shuts down my tube amps, but kickers, velodyne sms1 and projector. They are all off the 12v trigger and it takes over 3 min to get back on and sound back. You can guess the expression on my friends faces for Sunday football when this happens 5 or 6 times. Not good, I am actually ashamed about it since my cheap receivers I never had a issue with, I avoid telling them what I paid for this thing. Have you found a way to get sound back with out rebooting. If I don't solve this it will be up for sale soon Tivo is the only thing I use it with.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/17401358
> 
> 
> yes studlygoorite that helps unfortinally how many time do I have to hit the redwing 30 sec button or repeat a play or because I fast forwarded to far then it is Russian rulet. Trouble is rebooting shuts down my tube amps, but kickers, velodyne sms1 and projector. They are all off the 12v trigger and it takes over 3 min to get back on and sound back. You can guess the expression on my friends faces for Sunday football when this happens 5 or 6 times. Not good, I am actually ashamed about it since my cheap receivers I never had a issue with, I avoid telling them what I paid for this thing. Have you found a way to get sound back with out rebooting. If I don't solve this it will be up for sale soon Tivo is the only thing I use it with.




I know where you are comming from, it is embarrassing. Sometimes to fix audio troubles I can just switch inputs on the D2v and then back and things will be fixed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I believe this is an audio source detection bug in the V2.07 firmware. The input stream processing is not recognizing what's coming in so it has muted.


Switching to a different input and back should cure this as a workaround.


The bug appears to be fixed (for me) in the "test" v2.07f firmware. I do not recommend the V2.07g firmware due to other problems.


Also, beware that both test versions still come with the *SCARY WARNING!* if the install fails.


It is dissapointing that we still don't have even "test" firmware to address the laundry list of current audio problems.


I can only assume they are holding off these bug fixes because they have been made in the version with Dolby Volume which is about to be released.

--Bob


----------



## programmergeek

Yes a firmware upgrade that is where my video card tosted or was bad. Anyhow is is back to canada with this for repair. Switching sources didn't work for me. The only thing I could tell worked was a total reboot. It is good news if they addressedd the issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I had previously reported gray scale problems near black with HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 input from the Oppo BDP-83.


It has now been conclusively demonstrated that this is an Oppo bug. The nature of the bug is such that it can show on the D2 and AVM 50 as well as on the D2v and AVM 50v. The bug is fully understood, and it will be fixed in a future Oppo firmware release. As is often the case with such problems, the fix is one heck of a lot easier than the discovery!


The bug will only show in certain cases where the Anthem needs to round some pixel values near black. That means whether or not you can see the bug will be highly dependent on precisely how you have your black levels calibrated and the nature of your 3-color Gamma response near black -- as well as what conversion, if any, the Anthem has to do for "best" output to your display. Or simply put, you may not see this bug at all.


If you see it, you will find that black levels for YCbCr 4:2:2 input are either a bit too high or too low compared to YCbCr 4:4:4 input from the Oppo.


For now, the workaround with HDMI YCbCr 4:2:2 from the Oppo is to use the latest Oppo firmware (the 0925 Main firmware) and to set the HDMI Deep Color option to either 30-bit (Dithered) or OFF (Dithered). [Use OFF (Dithered) with the original D2 or AVM 50.] This doesn't completely eliminate the bug, but it reduces it to the point that it becomes VERY tough to spot.


Alternatively, use YCbCr 4:4:4 from the Oppo.


NOTE: In my D2v testing, I find 30-bit (Dithered) from the Oppo to be the best choice even with YCbCr 4:4:4 input. I'm currently using YCbCr 4:2:2 with 30-bit (Dithered) from the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doc4140* /forum/post/17397873
> 
> 
> Thanks! Will try the changes but the room is 13 feet wide and the speakers are about 1 foot from the sides now toed in pointing to the central listening chair. Great advice to uncheck the other speakers to shorten the time of the checks! The crossover that I have from Krell is a KRX-3 but no instructions and I dont know what the crossover is inside the unit. I need to adjust it trial and error to see if I can get a change in the 90-350 range.



I take it this Krell external crossover is something you added to try to tackle room problems in the past, correct? Rather than something that's absolutely essential to use for proper functioning of your LF/RF speakers? That is, the LF/RF speakers already have their own internal crossover circuits to deal with splitting the audio between the various drivers?


If so, it would be very helpful to see ARC charts where you Measure *WITHOUT* the Krell connected so that we can see what the actual room response is for your room without the Krell altering things.


--------------------------------------------------


The other advice you have been given about moving the speakers further out from the walls/corners and using better bass trap material is also valid.


Depending on the dimensions of your room (particularly ceiling height), you may also get some improvement by raising LF/RF a bit further off the floor.


Also, do you have carpets on the floor, and do you have other soft materials on the vertical surfaces -- such as window drapes? If not, perhaps you should. If you have lots of bare, hard surfaces at primary reflection points, that too will make the room response more extreme.


Oh, and don't point LF/RF at the center seating position. My usual Rule of Thumb is to swing them only 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular to the screen towards the center seating position.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

Video 101 question:

What would dictate one selecting 4:2:2 over 4:4:4 or vice versa given that your video chain has no problem with either.

Like in the Oppo bug, if 4:2:2 doesn't work what, if any, is the downside to selecting 4:4:4 all else being equal.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17386929
> 
> 
> Hello, I had a conversation with one of the Burmester people who told me that their new stuff for multichannel will be out next year, using HDMI 1.4. He stated that the 1.3 std was to unreliable, which I think we all have more or less experienced.
> 
> 
> Now the question remains, will Anthem provide a upgrade to HDMI 1.4, to solve our issues (and making room for 4K picture ++...?) for our beloved D2v's?
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Erik



It would have to be a hardware upgrade. I don't expect any great rush to make the switch.


HDMI ORG has promised over and over again that each new spec would solve the disastrous problems in the current spec. They haven't been right yet.


Their cries of, "Wait 'till next year!", are getting increasingly lame.


And the stuff that has been ADDED to the HDMI V1.4 spec is extremely scary in my opinion. For example, HDMI ORG, I kid you not, has invented an ENTIRELY NEW! way to pass ethernet networking over copper wires. Why? Because they didn't have enough free pins to add it the way ethernet is normally done. Oh, yes, in case you didn't realize it, HDMI ORG has decided their current audio/video handshaking problems are not enough. So they've added ethernet into the same cable. Unbelievable.


And if you think signal problems at 1080p are fun, wait until folks try to cable things up for the higher resolutions!


Really they are just throwing everything the can against the wall and hoping SOMETHING sticks -- something that will make people discard what they have now and buy again.


Oh, did I mention gratuitous 3D? Let's put TWO video streams on the same cable so that neither one of them can be full quality!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17401850
> 
> 
> Video 101 question:
> 
> What would dictate one selecting 4:2:2 over 4:4:4 or vice versa given that your video chain has no problem with either.
> 
> Like in the Oppo bug, if 4:2:2 doesn't work what, if any, is the downside to selecting 4:4:4 all else being equal.



Video 101 answer:

See the Technology and Terminology section of post links in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

Thanks Bob. Read all of the links.

Am I correct in my assumption:

My D2 and RS2 both utilize VXP 10-bit processing so 4:2:2 would be of no advantage as neither unit is capable of 4:2:2 12-bit processing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2v / AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.07i is now up on Password Protected Download Page!*


"Test" firmware V2.07i has appeared this afternoon on Anthem's password protected download page. Change notes for changes since the current "official" firmware -- V2.07 -- read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> *WARNING: Do not attempt to load beta software unless the computer and connection is known to successfully update an AVM 50v or D2v. A programming failure may result in the necessity for factory reprogramming.*
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07i beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Added reset for audio DSP crash that somtimes occurred when changing source and resulted in need for AC reboot.
> 
> 
> 2. Improved HDMI switching.
> 
> 
> Known issue: Preset surround mode does not take effect when a stereo source is selected (mode can still be selected manually).
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07g beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for audio loss when some advanced bass management settings were changed manually.
> 
> 
> 2. Small change to DTS Master Audio display since unabbreviated display is required.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Faster HDMI lock when switching sources.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07e beta:
> 
> 
> 1. More changes to address video switching, audio dropouts, and audio glitches.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. More changes to video code base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Video processor code base updates.
> 
> 
> 2. Audio DSP code base update.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for Sony as second monitor.


*BEWARE!* V2.07i continues to bear the *SCARY WARNING!* If the install fails while the video board is being programmed, you may have no recourse but to return the unit to the Anthem factory for special, corrective reprogramming. At the very least, before installing any of these Beta ("test") firmware versions, you should satisfy yourself that your setup for doing installs (Windows PC and serial connection) appear to work OK by re-installing "official" V2.07 on top of itself a few times.


As usual, "test" software is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises.


I do not know yet whether the various audio problems are fixed in this version. These include:


1) Audio corrupted or channels lost when HDMI LPCM input happens to have no audio in either LF or RF channnels.


2) Down-mixing of 7.1 content to 5.1 not working correctly for TrueHD.


3) Decoding of 7.1 DTS-HD MA actually decoding the lossy core DTS 5.1 track for 5.1 speaker systems.


4) PLIIx not properly producing 7.1 speaker output when fed 5.1 channel input.


However the signal detection problem we were just discussing a few posts ago DOES appear to have been addressed.


V2.07g also had a problem where all analog video input capability could be lost after an extended period of viewing HDMI 1080p/24. This would include on-screen display of the Setup menu. A power cycle was required to fix this. I don't know whether that problem is fixed in V2.07i yet.


The "Known Problem" has been previously reported here. If you feed 2.0 audio input into PLIIx-Movie or PLIIx-Music -- selected as the default in Mode Presets -- the result may be only 2.1 speaker output instead of the correct 5.1 or 7.1 speaker output. You can check this by pressing Select repeatedly to see which speakers are active for output. If only LF/RF/Sub are shown, the workaround is simply to use the Mode button and the Arrow keys to switch to a different audio mode and back.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17401974
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Read all of the links.
> 
> Am I correct in my assumption:
> 
> My D2 and RS2 both utilize VXP 10-bit processing so 4:2:2 would be of no advantage as neither unit is capable of 4:2:2 12-bit processing.



It's not quite so obvious as that.


Some devices will have bugs in 4:4:4 that don't happen in 4:2:2 even if only 8 bits of the stream contain real data.


And some sources will output 4:2:2 with 10 data bits and 2 padding bits. The D2 receives 12 bit 4:2:2 (24 bits per pixel) and then truncates the 2 low order bits -- leaving 10 bits that get processed. It outputs 4:2:2 using 10 data bits and 2 padding bits. It is likely your RS2 also accepts that 12 bit input and truncates it down to 10 bits for processing.


Other sources, like the Oppo BDP-83, will output 24-bit YCbCr 4:2:2 (12 bits per component) using 8 data bits per component and 4 padding bits. So no improvement in data "quality" over 4:4:4, but possibly getting around some bugs.


-------------------------------------------------------


My recommendation remains that you start by using HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4 and get that working as best you can. Then, AFTER you know how good that looks, try experimenting with 4:2:2 -- calibrating again as necessary -- and see if you can spot any improvement.


If you run into an intractable problem with 4:4:4, then also try 4:2:2 to see if it offers a workaround.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17402017
> 
> *D2v / AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.07i is now up on Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> "Test" firmware V2.07i has appeared this afternoon on Anthem's password protected download page. Change notes for changes since the current "official" firmware -- V2.07 -- read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> *BEWARE!* V2.07i continues to bear the *SCARY WARNING!* If the install fails while the video board is being programmed, you may have no recourse but to return the unit to the Anthem factory for special, corrective reprogramming. At the very least, before installing any of these Beta ("test") firmware versions, you should satisfy yourself that your setup for doing installs (Windows PC and serial connection) appear to work OK by re-installing "official" V2.07 on top of itself a few times.
> 
> 
> As usual, "test" software is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises.
> 
> 
> I do not know yet whether the various audio problems are fixed in this version. These include:
> 
> 
> 1) Audio corrupted or channels lost when HDMI LPCM input happens to have no audio in either LF or RF channnels.
> 
> 
> 2) Down-mixing of 7.1 content to 5.1 not working correctly for TrueHD.
> 
> 
> 3) Decoding of 7.1 DTS-HD MA actually decoding the lossy core DTS 5.1 track for 5.1 speaker systems.
> 
> 
> 4) PLIIx not properly producing 7.1 speaker output when fed 5.1 channel input.
> 
> 
> However the signal detection problem we were just discussing a few posts ago DOES appear to have been addressed.
> 
> 
> V2.07g also had a problem where all analog video input capability could be lost after an extended period of viewing HDMI 1080p/24. This would include on-screen display of the Setup menu. A power cycle was required to fix this. I don't know whether that problem is fixed in V2.07i yet.
> 
> 
> The "Known Problem" has been previously reported here. If you feed 2.0 audio input into PLIIx-Movie or PLIIx-Music -- selected as the default in Mode Presets -- the result may be only 2.1 speaker output instead of the correct 5.1 or 7.1 speaker output. You can check this by pressing Select repeatedly to see which speakers are active for output. If only LF/RF/Sub are shown, the workaround is simply to use the Mode button and the Arrow keys to switch to a different audio mode and back.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


If I understand you correctly, 2.07i might address the lack of rear channel audio on LPCM and True HD when played back on a 7.1 system?


Also, I posted a question above regarding the Mode Preset screen:


For 5.1 True HD and 5.1 DTS-MA, how does the Anthem know to apply a signal to the rear channels where these two audio codecs are not included in the Mode Preset screen for us to tell it what to do if you have a 7.1 setup?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17402060
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> If I understand you correctly, 2.07i might address the lack of rear channel audio on LPCM and True HD when played back on a 7.1 system?
> 
> 
> Also, I posted a question above regarding the Mode Preset screen:
> 
> 
> For 5.1 True HD and 5.1 DTS-MA, how does the Anthem know to apply a signal to the rear channels where these two audio codecs are not included in the Mode Preset screen for us to tell it what to do if you have a 7.1 setup?



You do not understand me correctly. I listed that as a known problem which isn't mentioned in the release notes. I.e., we don't KNOW whether it is fixed or not.


---------------------------


The Mode Presets question is a good one. I haven't experimented since I only have a 5.1 speaker system, but my guess is that 5.1 TrueHD uses the DD5.1 preset and 5.1 DTS-HD (MA or HR) uses the DTS5.1 preset. But I don't know for sure.


7.1 input for either of them would, of course, use the 7.1 preset.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Now that Microsoft Windows 7 is officially released, I expect we will soon see a new release of ARC that is compatible with Windows 7.


Until that happens, you should not use ARC V2.3 under Windows 7. ARC V2.3 definitely did NOT work with pre-release versions of Windows 7.


-------------------------------


The firmware installers and the various utility programs are ALSO not yet known to be compatible with Windows 7. They may be, we just don't know yet.


My recommendation is that you continue to use Windows XP for ARC, for firmware installs, and for use of the various utility programs such as SettingsBackup and LiveVideoSettingsEditor until we get some definitive word from Anthem. Vista also works for these if you are so unfortunate as to have it.


This is particularly important for folks who want to try a "test" firmware install for the D2v or AVM 50v that comes with the *SCARY WARNING!*

--Bob


----------



## jayray

The new firmware still has the problem of no rear sound with TrueHD. Did not try it with pcm. Installed fine but disappointed with no fix for rear channel sound. Emailed Nick.

John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17402761
> 
> 
> The new firmware still has the problem of no rear sound with TrueHD. Did not try it with pcm. Installed fine but disappointed with no fix for rear channel sound.
> 
> John



Thanks John! Saves me from trying it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

NONE of the pending audio problems I listed are fixed in V2.07i:


1) HDMI LPCM channels are lost if neither LF nor RF happens to have input at the moment. Confirmed via AIX Channel ID test on the Oppo.


2) 7.1 TrueHD Bitstream is improperly down mixed to 5.1. Rear channel audio comes out of both front speakers as well as the correct side speaker on the matching side. Confirmed via AIX Channel ID test on the Oppo.


3) 7.1 DTS-HD MA Bitstream is improperly decoded using the 5.1 DTS lossy core. Confirmed on the Oppo via AIX Channel ID test since the lossy core is deliberately set many dB low in volume in this track to catch just such a problem. This problem may only happen if you have a 5.1 speaker system. I didn't try to lie to the D2v and tell it I had 7.1 just to check.


Since JAYRAY has already confirmed the 4th problem -- that high bandwidth 5.1 input is not being properly raised to 7.1 speakers by PLIIx -- we have the matched set of continuing failure -- just like V2.07g.


If you have a 5.1 speaker system, problems (2) and (3) above are fixed in V2.07f -- and of course the 4th problem doesn't matter. Problem (1) has existed since the first D2v firmware although in earlier versions the channels were corrupted rather than being lost. Generally speaking, problem (1) will only be heard from test discs, since normal content almost always has something in either LF or RF.


I'll continue testing V2.07i since I still need to check video, but the audio problems alone are enough to make me go back to V2.07f for my 5.1 speaker system.


I'll inform Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman

For those with a D2 using a Comcast Motorola DVR since I installed v1.47f the HDMI handshake problems are gone. The D2 has not lost a HDMI handshake since installing v1.47f.


----------



## bluemark81

Bob: I sure hope you are on Anthem's payroll! If not, you should be.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17403416
> 
> 
> For those with a D2 using a Comcast Motorola DVR since I installed v1.47f the HDMI handshake problems are gone. The D2 has not lost a HDMI handshake since installing v1.47f.



Thanks for that report! Which model Motorola box do you have.

--Bob


----------



## ragdog

Please advise is there a new update to firmware to the D2V that is official?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ragdog* /forum/post/17405628
> 
> 
> Please advise is there a new update to firmware to the D2V that is official?



The "official" firmware version for the D2v is V2.07.


The "official" software version for the ARC Windows PC application is V2.3.


Both available from Anthem's public download page for the D2v:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


-------------------------------


The next big change in D2v firmware -- the version that includes Dolby Volume -- is expected to be in Beta test quite soon now.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just got confirmation from Nick that the audio issues we've been discussing are indeed being worked on now. He didn't come right out and say it, but I still suspect these fixes will be in the upcoming version that also includes Dolby Volume.


He said the DSP crash in V2.07 -- the crash that left things in a state that could only be cured by power-cycling the Anthem -- was so nasty they felt they had to get a fix out for it right away for those customers who are experiencing it. If you are not experiencing it, then there's no rush to move to V2.07i.


He said the HDMI change in V2.07i was an improvement which keeps a new HDMI handshake from happening if the Sources you switched between happen to have the same audio/video input and the same video output -- for example if you switch between two sources that only differ in processing settings in the Video Source Adjust menu.

--Bob


[EDIT: Fixed typo.]


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17405764
> 
> 
> I just got confirmation from Nick that the audio issues we've been discussing are indeed being worked on now. He didn't come right out and say it, but I still suspect these fixes will be in the upcoming version that also includes Dolby Volume.
> 
> 
> He said *the DSP crash in V2.07i* -- the crash that left things in a state that could only be cured by power-cycling the Anthem -- was so nasty they felt they had to get a fix out for it right away for those customers who are experiencing it. If you are not experiencing it, then there's no rush to *move to V2.07i*.
> 
> 
> He said the HDMI change in V2.07i was an improvement which keeps a new HDMI handshake from happening if the Sources you switched between happen to have the same audio/video input and the same video output -- for example if you switch between two sources that only differ in processing settings in the Video Source Adjust menu.
> 
> --Bob



Wait - so 2.07i has the crash, or the crash fix?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17405890
> 
> 
> Wait - so 2.07i has the crash, or the crash fix?



Typo. V2.07 has the crash. V2.07i has the crash fix.

--Bob


----------



## programmergeek

Great if this fixes my Tivo sound issue that would be grate now I just need my D2v back it's been 2 weeks wonder how long repair takes.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17405900
> 
> 
> Typo. V2.07 has the crash. V2.07i has the crash fix.
> 
> --Bob



I've got 2.07f on mine (the one after the super duper warning). Will I need to re-ARC, or reload-ARC, or can I just apply the 2.07i firmware?


----------



## programmergeek

When I did mind with Anthum on the phone they had me go to a menu and save user settings in the Anthum, install the update and reload user settings.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/17406870
> 
> 
> When I did mind with Anthum on the phone they had me go to a menu and save user settings in the Anthum, install the update and reload user settings.



Hmmm... so then I wonder what Anth*e*m would recommend?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17404099
> 
> 
> Thanks for that report! Which model Motorola box do you have.
> 
> --Bob



Here is the entire HDMI setup connected to my D2 (not a D2v ) running v1.47f.


Comcast Motorola DCT6412 III DVR

Comcast Motorola DCX 3400 DVR

Oppo BDP-83 BD

Oppo DV983 DVD

Popcorn Hour A-100

Popcorn Hour C-200

The D2 output is connected to a Sony Qualia 006 SXRD

To handle more than the 4 inputs the D2 allows, several HDMI sources are

connected to a Oppo HM-31 HDMI switch


No handshake problems.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17405764
> 
> 
> I just got confirmation from Nick that the audio issues we've been discussing are indeed being worked on now. He didn't come right out and say it, but I still suspect these fixes will be in the upcoming version that also includes Dolby Volume.
> 
> 
> He said the DSP crash in V2.07 -- the crash that left things in a state that could only be cured by power-cycling the Anthem -- was so nasty they felt they had to get a fix out for it right away for those customers who are experiencing it. If you are not experiencing it, then there's no rush to move to V2.07i.
> 
> 
> He said the HDMI change in V2.07i was an improvement which keeps a new HDMI handshake from happening if the Sources you switched between happen to have the same audio/video input and the same video output -- for example if you switch between two sources that only differ in processing settings in the Video Source Adjust menu.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> [EDIT: Fixed typo.]




One of the reasons I went with Anthem is because of their great support, I knew it would only be a matter of time. Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17406814
> 
> 
> I've got 2.07f on mine (the one after the super duper warning). Will I need to re-ARC, or reload-ARC, or can I just apply the 2.07i firmware?



Normally you don't have to reload ARC. ARC values are kept in a place not affected by firmware updates. Bob sometimes suggests to do it just to be safe. I haven't now for awhile and find no diff after many firmware updates.

John


----------



## bluemark81

I have been waiting for my S6's to break in to run ARC, but should I also wait until Anthem resolves the rear channel audio issue? I don't really think it matters, but would appreciate the opinion of others.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/17406870
> 
> 
> When I did mind with Anthum on the phone they had me go to a menu and save user settings in the Anthum, install the update and reload user settings.



That's different. That's for the Setup and Video Source Adjust menu settings --including the settings ARC uploads to the Setup menu.


You have to Reload Factory Defaults before doing a firmware install, and this procedure makes it easy for you to restore your settings afterwards.


But ARC also loads special Room Correction parameters into a separate memory that you can't view. These parameters are NOT saved in User or Installer settings, but they are also not erased by Reloading Factory Defaults or installing new firmware. So you don't have to re-Upload your ARC setup after a firmware install. Just restore your saved settings as usual.


That said, I always re-Upload my ARC setup after a firmware install anyway. It's easy since I've already got the cable connected, it avoids any possibility that a bug might have screwed up the prior Upload, it insures things are in a known state, and it helps test that ARC Uploading works with the newly installed firmware. Call it belt & suspenders.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17407560
> 
> 
> I have been waiting for my S6's to break in to run ARC, but should I also wait until Anthem resolves the rear channel audio issue? I don't really think it matters, but would appreciate the opinion of others.



As best I can tell, none of the audio issues we've been discussing have any impact on the way ARC does its Measurements, so you can safely do an ARC setup and expect good results from it both before and after these bugs are fixed.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Just to be sure... you are talking about the D2 right? Not the D2v.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17407119
> 
> 
> Here is the entire HDMI setup connected to the D2 running v1.7f.
> 
> 
> Comcast Motorola DCT6412 III DVR
> 
> Comcast Motorola DCX 3400 DVR
> 
> Oppo BDP-83 BD
> 
> Oppo DV983 DVD
> 
> Popcorn Hour A-100
> 
> Popcorn Hour C-200
> 
> The D2 output is connected to a Sony Qualia 006 SXRD
> 
> To handle more than the 4 inputs the D2 allows, several HDMI sources are
> 
> connected to a Oppo HM-31 HDMI switch
> 
> 
> No handshake problems.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes, and he is talking about "test" D2 firmware V1.47f, not "v1.7f" (typo).

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17408383
> 
> 
> Yes, and he is talking about "test" D2 firmware V1.47f, not "v1.7f" (typo).
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Also, I was wondering what one does when pairing a paradigm sub that is equipped with their perfect bass kit (ARC for their sub) with the ANTHEM D2 with ARC.


I am considering getting their new Sig Sub2 out later this month and it comes with perfect bass kit/ARC.


Anyone have any input on Paradigm's new SIG. SUB2 or SUB1?


Thanks


-b


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/17408586
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Also, I was wondering what one does when pairing a paradigm sub that is equipped with their perfect bass kit (ARC for their sub) with the ANTHEM D2 with ARC.
> 
> 
> I am considering getting their new Sig Sub2 out later this month and it comes with perfect bass kit/ARC.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any input on Paradigm's new SIG. SUB2 or SUB1?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> -b



I saw them first hand at CEDIA, very nice looking subs...

I have dumped huge amounts of money into my 3 - LMS sealed subs, but if I had expendable money, I would have no trouble buying a pair of those subs, design is spectacular IMO.... no vibration or rocking coming from them for sure.... and huge displacement with the SUB2









Very nice looking as well IMO http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/s...radigm-sub-1-2 

Better have some serious voltage supply though...


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:


I was testing the analog MCH and Stereo outputs of my Oppo BDP-83 player and noticed the bass/LFE content in the MCH outputs is much lower than the Stereo outputs into my 50v. I want the Anthem to do all bass managemtn functions. Would this be the 5dB difference often talked about when doing analog bass management? The Oppo speaker configuration is set to Large.


How can I compensate or add this extra 5dB using the 50v?


Thanks,

David


----------



## Massimo N

I was wondering if anyone has the ASUS O!Play and has it successfully working with their AVM. I have the AVM30HD with ARC and running the 1.47f firmware.


The AVM will only recognise 480p as a valid resolution, and I cannot force a higher resolution. My only work around is to hook up the O!Play directly to the projector, change the resolution, then hot swap the cable back to the AVM.


If anyone has been able to figure this out, please let me know.


I did send an e-mail to Anthem to see if they have any suggestions.


Thanx,

Massimo


----------



## doc4140




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17401794
> 
> 
> I take it this Krell external crossover is something you added to try to tackle room problems in the past, correct? Rather than something that's absolutely essential to use for proper functioning of your LF/RF speakers? That is, the LF/RF speakers already have their own internal crossover circuits to deal with splitting the audio between the various drivers?
> 
> 
> If so, it would be very helpful to see ARC charts where you Measure *WITHOUT* the Krell connected so that we can see what the actual room response is for your room without the Krell altering things.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The other advice you have been given about moving the speakers further out from the walls/corners and using better bass trap material is also valid.
> 
> 
> Depending on the dimensions of your room (particularly ceiling height), you may also get some improvement by raising LF/RF a bit further off the floor.
> 
> 
> Also, do you have carpets on the floor, and do you have other soft materials on the vertical surfaces -- such as window drapes? If not, perhaps you should. If you have lots of bare, hard surfaces at primary reflection points, that too will make the room response more extreme.
> 
> 
> Oh, and don't point LF/RF at the center seating position. My usual Rule of Thumb is to swing them only 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular to the screen towards the center seating position.
> 
> --Bob



I am in the process of trying all the suggestions. The room is 13 X 31 X 8 ft ceiling height and the speakers are 15" X 32" X 6 ft tall and weight 325LB each. I cant get them more than about 1 foot from the side walls. THere is total carpeting and alot of Acoustic Innovation panels on most of the walls. The Tube Traps in the corners go up about 6 feet. Cant raise the speakers and not easy to remove the crossover since I am bi amping and bi wiring the speakers. The internal crossover is not great but I may be ablt to bypass the external crossover just to check it. Krell made this crossover specifically for the speakers but it was made many years ago and there is not support and no easy way to check the crossover to see if it is functioning correctly. Will research all the suggestions. Would having 2 subs make a big change in the curves if there is room interference now? Also why not check the speaker calibration after ARC with a Radio Shack SPL to see if the levels are correct.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17404099
> 
> 
> Thanks for that report! Which model Motorola box do you have.
> 
> --Bob



I also have a D2 with v1.47f and did not fix the hdmi handshake for me.

I have the following configuration:

Comcast Motorola DCH3200 -> D2 -> Sony XBR8

And sometime it goes into those infinite HDMI handshake (Black screen, snow, black screen, snow, ...). And the only to get out of it is either to power off the D2 + really power it off with the back switch and then power it back on. Or unplug the hdmi from the back of my tv, wait for D2 to do its handshake for sound then plug the tv back in, with a few more handshake for picture, but then it stabilize down and I get both picture and sound.


It seems to happen more often when I am switching between hdmi sources that have different frequency (e.g bd player at 24hz and comcast box at 60hz).


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/17410300
> 
> 
> I also have a D2 with v1.47f and did not fix the hdmi handshake for me.
> 
> I have the following configuration:
> 
> Comcast Motorola DCH3200 -> D2 -> Sony XBR8
> 
> And sometime it goes into those infinite HDMI handshake (Black screen, snow, black screen, snow, ...). And the only to get out of it is either to power off the D2 + really power it off with the back switch and then power it back on. Or unplug the hdmi from the back of my tv, wait for D2 to do its handshake for sound then plug the tv back in, with a few more handshake for picture, but then it stabilize down and I get both picture and sound.
> 
> 
> It seems to happen more often when I am switching between hdmi sources that have different frequency (e.g bd player at 24hz and comcast box at 60hz).



I had the same issue with my system. Bob P suggested that I go through the HDMI settings and make sure I did not select any auto settings. The only setting I found was Auto Digital in the source setting for audio was on. When I turned it off, the handshake issue settled down. FWIW


----------



## jclem

I have a D2v with Arc setup in a 7.1 system and will be getting a pair of JL f112's to replace a single sub. The D2v has 2 sub inputs, should I use both of those or just Sub1 and then "master-slave"/ "daisychain" the subs.


I understand that there is "setting phase and polarity" in the intro to this forum which I will read, but are there any particulars/hints which relate specifically to the JLs that I should know? I'm pretty sure that many of you Anthem owners are also JL owners.


Thanks


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/17411456
> 
> 
> I have a D2v with Arc setup in a 7.1 system and will be getting a pair of JL f112's to replace a single sub. The D2v has 2 sub inputs, should I use both of those or just Sub1 and then "master-slave"/ "daisychain" the subs.
> 
> 
> I understand that there is "setting phase and polarity" in the intro to this forum which I will read, but are there any particulars/hints which relate specifically to the JLs that I should know? I'm pretty sure that many of you Anthem owners are also JL owners.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I think you meant to say two sub outputs.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17408383
> 
> 
> Yes, and he is talking about "test" D2 firmware V1.47f, not "v1.7f" (typo).
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob


Fixed


It was recommended by Nick that on a D2 I run the 1.47f software and forget any others.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/17410300
> 
> 
> I also have a D2 with v1.47f and did not fix the hdmi handshake for me.
> 
> I have the following configuration:
> 
> Comcast Motorola DCH3200 -> D2 -> Sony XBR8
> 
> And sometime it goes into those infinite HDMI handshake (Black screen, snow, black screen, snow, ...). And the only to get out of it is either to power off the D2 + really power it off with the back switch and then power it back on. Or unplug the hdmi from the back of my tv, wait for D2 to do its handshake for sound then plug the tv back in, with a few more handshake for picture, but then it stabilize down and I get both picture and sound.
> 
> 
> It seems to happen more often when I am switching between hdmi sources that have different frequency (e.g bd player at 24hz and comcast box at 60hz).



Your setup is quite different than mine.

Different DVR and a different display.


My display only accepts 1080i.


Try connecting the dvr directly to your display and see if it still has problems.


Also, since you are sending 1080p to the display from the D2 try a different hdmi cable from the dvr to the D2 and from the D2 to the display.


You should be able to reset the hdmi handshake by selecting a different SSP source at the bottom of the remote that also is using hdmi . Wait till the handshake resets and then go back to your dvr rather than powering everything down.


You can also use Bob's suggestion to use component video and digital audio from the dvr to the D2. Since cable is only Dolby 5.1 or stereo there is no audio loss and the video is the same quality as hdmi.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17409315
> 
> 
> I was testing the analog MCH and Stereo outputs of my Oppo BDP-83 player and noticed the bass/LFE content in the MCH outputs is much lower than the Stereo outputs into my 50v. I want the Anthem to do all bass management functions. Would this be the 5dB difference often talked about when doing analog bass management? The Oppo speaker configuration is set to Large.



It would be better to compare the analog MCH to a digital MCH connection, either HDMI or S/PDIF. If they match, no compensation is needed. If not, then check the Oppo not only for all speakers set to large, but that all output trims are 0. If this doesn't solve the mismatch, make sure the 50v is digitizing the MCH analog inputs so that the bass management can work (analog direct turned off).


Just curious, but if your 50v has HDMI inputs, why would you want to use the analog input connections?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17409233
> 
> 
> I saw them first hand at CEDIA, very nice looking subs...
> 
> I have dumped huge amounts of money into my 3 - LMS sealed subs, but if I had expendable money, I would have no trouble buying a pair of those subs, design is spectacular IMO.... no vibration or rocking coming from them for sure.... and huge displacement with the SUB2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice looking as well IMO http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/s...radigm-sub-1-2
> 
> Better have some serious voltage supply though...




Have you had any experience with the BG Radia BGX-4850 THX Ultra2-certified

subwoofer system http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1067309


----------



## bluemark81

Can someone explain the Auto-LFE setting a bit better than the manual does? I have an OPPO blu ray player and I want to use it for movies as well as SACD's where I will want it set to my music config. How does the Auto LFE get applied?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17412932
> 
> 
> Can someone explain the Auto-LFE setting a bit better than the manual does? I have an OPPO blu ray player and I want to use it for movies as well as SACD's where I will want it set to my music config. How does the Auto LFE get applied?



Auto-LFE is a trigger that looks at the incoming source. If an LFE signal is declared in the bitstream info, it applies Movie config. If no LFE signal is declared, it uses Music config.


It cannot distinguish between 5.1 SACDs and 5.1 BD/DVDs. It will treat them all as Movies.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17412997
> 
> 
> Auto-LFE is a trigger that looks at the incoming source. If an LFE signal is declared in the bitstream info, it applies Movie config. If no LFE signal is declared, it uses Music config.
> 
> 
> It cannot distinguish between 5.1 SACDs and 5.1 BD/DVDs. It will treat them all as Movies.



when you say declared, do you mean a .1 audio source?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17413126
> 
> 
> when you say declared, do you mean a .1 audio source?



Yes. x.1, if you will. In other words, it's not looking for actual audio in the LFE channel, just the soundtrack's channel format.


----------



## bluemark81

I'm not sure if this is going to work, but here it goes:











How do they look?


ok....how the heck do you attach a pic?


----------



## bluemark81

Hope this works:

Attachment 156057 

Attachment 156058 

Attachment 156059 

Attachment 156060 


How do they look?


----------



## 7ryder




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/15546653
> 
> 
> Right now, I would say the AVM 50v (which comes bundled with ARC) is a real bargain. Nick suggests the same -- saying that if the price gap were to close it would likely be a result more of raising the AVM 50v pricing than of lowering the D2v pricing.
> 
> 
> All of this stuff is incredibly hard to sort out. What's really needed is to find a way to compare the two units in actual use. But unfortunately that is not possible for most people due to the dealers simply not keeping demo units in stock.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I hope this ramble helps people focus their thinking a bit.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: Another note from Nick on this is that one of the most impressive things about the D2 (and now the D2v) is that Anthem's listener tests show that the digital audio signal path in the Statement is "transparent".
> 
> 
> That is, in a carefully controlled A/B test with high quality content and surrounding equipment, and with speakers set to Large, ARC not in use, etc., so that the digital side has no work to do other than transporting the audio, listeners essentially can not detect whether analog audio input is being digitized by the ADC, upsampled, and then converted back to analog for output by the DAC, as opposed to "Analog Direct" pass through. This transparency of the ADC -> DAC chain in the D2 is crucial because it means that people can, in fact, allow the D2 (or D2v) to digitize their analog sources -- thus enabling value-added processing such as ARC -- without automatically paying a penalty simply for going in and out of the digital stuff.
> 
> --Bob



Hey Bob -

Way back in this thread you posted these great comments above. I was wondering if, after people have had some time to spend with their D2Vs and AVM50vs, if the consensus is still that the AVM50v is a bargain?


Also, has anyone had a chance to do a shoot-out between the two?


I apologize in advance if this has been asked, but I couldn't find this in the 800+ pages of this very active thread.










Hoping to join the club,


ChrisG

Seattle, WA


----------



## /dev/null

Found an interesting little bug in the 50v setup menu...

I'm running my Pioneer universal disc play to the 50v via HDMI for CDs, and via 6ch analog for SACD/DVD-A. What I did, was configure the 6-CH input with no DSP- direct analog. I then set the CD input to also look at the 6-ch input, but with DSP on, as I might want to use the PLIIx or NEO decoders.

Here's where the bug comes in. When I go to the Modes menu, to tell the CD input to default to 'none' for processing, it only allows me to set the 2.0 mode. Now, whenever I go to that input, it defaults to PLIIx, not none.

So, is this a 'bug' or a 'feature'?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17412866
> 
> 
> It would be better to compare the analog MCH to a digital MCH connection, either HDMI or S/PDIF. If they match, no compensation is needed. If not, then check the Oppo not only for all speakers set to large, but that all output trims are 0. If this doesn't solve the mismatch, make sure the 50v is digitizing the MCH analog inputs so that the bass management can work (analog direct turned off).
> 
> 
> Just curious, but if your 50v has HDMI inputs, why would you want to use the analog input connections?



Thanks Roger,


I wanted to test out the analog bass management for the following 2 reasons:


1. I plan to have my Oppo analog outputs modded so getting familiar with them now to establish a baseline is important to me.


2. I wanted to test the bass management abilities and the sound quality of the 50v's ADCs.


I plan to use the 2Ch for CD playback. The 6CH for SACD/DVDA playback and HDMI for all others







.


Have you listened to the MCH and stereo outputs of your BD player? Do they produce the amount of bass through your D2v?


Thanks,

David


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17413437
> 
> 
> Hope this works:
> 
> Attachment 156057
> 
> Attachment 156058
> 
> Attachment 156059
> 
> Attachment 156060
> 
> 
> How do they look?



Very nice curves, but if I may be picky, I say the center speaker is the only speaker that need some placement experimentation, a movement of 6 inches from the original location to start with might spell the difference between great and outstanding!


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17413765
> 
> 
> Very nice curves, but if I may be picky, I say the center speaker is the only speaker that need some placement experimentation, a movement of 6 inches from the original location to start with might spell the difference between great and outstanding!



Thanks. I assume you mean 6" forward? I am actually further forward than what's shown in my pic. I could probably only move 3" further forward.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17413737
> 
> 
> Thanks Roger,
> 
> 
> I wanted to test out the analog bass management for the following 2 reasons:
> 
> 
> 1. I plan to have my Oppo analog outputs modded so getting familiar with them now to establish a baseline is important to me.
> 
> 
> 2. I wanted to test the bass management abilities and the sound quality of the 50v's ADCs.
> 
> 
> I plan to use the 2Ch for CD playback. The 6CH for SACD/DVDA playback and HDMI for all others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



I get the idea of playing SACD without converting to PCM, so you'd need to use the MCH analog outputs, but unless you set the 50v to analog direct, you'll be converting to PCM to gain access to bass management/ARC, so IMHO it's pointless to use analog connections (modded or not), as it would probably sound as good, or better, to let the Oppo convert SACD to 88.2kHz and pass it to the 50v digitally. No? Certainly that would be the case for native PCM sources (CD, DVD-A). Or are you trying to avoid HDMI for some reason?



> Quote:
> Have you listened to the MCH and stereo outputs of your BD player?



Never. I use HDMI from the BDP-83. My CD player uses optical S/PDIF.



> Quote:
> Do they produce the amount of bass through your D2v?



I feed them into an SSP-800.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17413806
> 
> 
> Thanks. I assume you mean 6" forward? I am actually further forward than what's shown in my pic. I could probably only move 3" further forward.



Either forward or backward, its really not an exact science on how to optimize the sound relative to your seating zone. Just don't move any other speaker anymore and replicate the same mic positions and you are done. Just be sure to mark the position of your speaker so that you can revert back to it if all other measurements becomes worse.


----------



## mmiles

Anyone have a known bug list for the D2V and AVM50V?


What are the differences in the D2V and AVM50V?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17414071
> 
> 
> I get the idea of playing SACD without converting to PCM, so you'd need to use the MCH analog outputs, but unless you set the 50v to analog direct, you'll be converting to PCM to gain access to bass management/ARC, so IMHO it's pointless to use analog connections (modded or not), as it would probably sound as good, or better, to let the Oppo convert SACD to 88.2kHz and pass it to the 50v digitally. No? Certainly that would be the case for native PCM sources (CD, DVD-A). Or are you trying to avoid HDMI for some reason?
> 
> 
> Never. I use HDMI from the BDP-83. My CD player uses optical S/PDIF.
> 
> 
> I feed them into an SSP-800.



Roger:


The reason for all this is to test the feature(s) I paid for. If I decide one day to listen via the source players analog sections or do a comparison between sources analog and HDMI outputs, I'd like to have a chance to honestly compare the two, for enjoyments sake at the least










Thanks for the great input so far!









David


PS...you suprised me being a Classe owner in the Anthem forum







. Do you plan to get one of these someday soon?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17414216
> 
> 
> Roger:
> 
> 
> The reason for all this is to test the feature(s) I paid for. If I decide one day to listen via the source players analog sections or do a comparison between sources analog and HDMI outputs, I'd like to have a chance to honestly compare the two, for enjoyments sake at the least



Ahh, makes perfect sense. Carry on.



> Quote:
> PS...you suprised me being a Classe owner in the Anthem forum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Do you plan to get one of these someday soon?



I've been tracking this forum for over a year as part of my research into selecting an AV processor for my HT build as in the sig. As you can see I went the road less traveled. Not the first time.










It's also one of the most active threads I subscribe to, and very informative on all sorts of topics aside from Athem products, per se. I'm one of Bob's groupies.


----------



## Murrayb

Just bought a new D2v and am working my way through the manual. Trying to track down a USB to serial adapter so I can use my laptop to run the ARC program. The manual says the adapter must support two stop bits. Not having any luck finding adapters that actually say they support two stop bits. In searching this thread, I've found a recommedation for a Keyspan USA-19HS adapter (which I see is available from Amazon.ca). Before I order it, thought I would ask for confirmation that this adapter works for both the Arc program and software updates or if there is a different adapter I should use. I'm in the Toronto area. Thanks in advance.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murrayb* /forum/post/17416773
> 
> 
> Just bought a new D2v and am working my way through the manual. Trying to track down a USB to serial adapter so I can use my laptop to run the ARC program. The manual says the adapter must support two stop bits. Not having any luck finding adapters that actually say they support two stop bits. In searching this thread, I've found a recommedation for a Keyspan USA-19HS adapter (which I see is available from Amazon.ca). Before I order it, thought I would ask for confirmation that this adapter works for both the Arc program and software updates or if there is a different adapter I should use. I'm in the Toronto area. Thanks in advance.



That one will work for both. I use it for the D2v software and ARC. I also use it for my DD15 sub.


----------



## Murrayb

Thanks Bluemark.


Looks like they have a new remote control as the 2 that came with mine differ from the ones pictured in the manual and on their website. A few buttons are named differently from the ones in the manual so I guess some trial and error is in order; although I did drop Tech Support about the issue, so will wait and see if they get back to me next week.


----------



## Warpdrv

Murrayb, another option - you can also use a PCMCIA to serial card, that works great as well for about $20... Search Ebay " PCMCIA to RS232"


They are generally plug and play, mine works perfectly with Vista 64


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murrayb* /forum/post/17417204
> 
> 
> Thanks Bluemark.
> 
> 
> Looks like they have a new remote control as the 2 that came with mine differ from the ones pictured in the manual and on their website. A few buttons are named differently from the ones in the manual so I guess some trial and error is in order; although I did drop Tech Support about the issue, so will wait and see if they get back to me next week.



Yes, the new ones are different than the one shown in the manual. The one shown in the manual is the older one. I use a Harmony One, so have never used the remotes that came with it.


----------



## doc4140

I have been using the ARC 2.2 and I see that the 2.3 is the latest. Is this the one I should be using for the AVM 50 with the ARC card?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doc4140* /forum/post/17417409
> 
> 
> I have been using the ARC 2.2 and I see that the 2.3 is the latest. Is this the one I should be using for the AVM 50 with the ARC card?



Yes.


----------



## fuzzybk

I can also confirm that the Keyspan from amazon.ca works just fine for the AVM 50v/D2v.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Unless you are running XP in Fusion on a Mac. Then you need a Belkin.













> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17418185
> 
> 
> I can also confirm that the Keyspan from amazon.ca works just fine for the AVM 50v/D2v.


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mmiles* 
Anyone have a known bug list for the D2V and AVM50V?


What are the differences in the D2V and AVM50V?
mmiles....see attached for the differences between the two. As for the bug list, Bob recently posted bugs for the non-official "test" firmwares 2.07x. You can search for his posts within the past week or so.


David

 

ComparisonChart.pdf 37.474609375k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In addition to Anthem's comparison chart cited above, here's a post I made some time back trying to spell out what we think we know about the differences between the D2v and the AVM 50v:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...53post15546653 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17414413
> 
> 
> I'm one of Bob's groupies.



We here at "Bob Pariseau" try not to let the constant adulation go to our head. Fortunately we have Extra Nights and Weekends Minutes of Fame on our 15 Minutes of Fame plan.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mmiles* /forum/post/17414131
> 
> 
> Anyone have a known bug list for the D2V and AVM50V?
> 
> 
> What are the differences in the D2V and AVM50V?



The differences are addressed in the posts just above.


There is no formal bug list available for the D2v or AVM 50v.


The current "official" firmware version for both is V2.07. This is paired with ARC software (V2.3 at the moment) that runs on your Windows PC during ARC setup.


There is a significant firmware update just about ready to go out which adds the Dolby Volume feature. Although that has not yet been made available as a Beta ("test") release, I'm assuming it will also include a number of bug fixes. That will probably be called V2.1.


There ARE "test" releases out now on Anthem's password protected download page which address certain issues in V2.07. These "test" releases have some problems of their own. This complicates explaining a bug list.


Here are some issues I'm aware of:


1) 2.0 audio input not properly raised to 5.1 or 7.1 speaker output when PLIIx-Movie or PLIIx-Music is the default audio Mode Preset. This exists in V2.07 and is partially fixed in "test" V2.07f and later. The workaround is to switch to any other audio mode and back.


2) HDMI LPCM channels missing if neither LF nor RF has any audio content at the moment. Confirmed by Anthem. Not yet fixed.


3) TrueHD 7.1 bitstream not properly down-mixed to 5.1 speakers. This bug is NOT in V2.07 or "test" V2.07f, but IS in "test" V2.07g or later. Not yet fixed.


4) High bitrate 5.1 audio not properly raised to 7.1 speaker output. This bug is NOT in V2.07, but IS in "test" V2.07f or later. Not yet fixed.


5) DTS-HD MA 7.1 bitstream may only be decoded as 5.1 lossy core for a 5.1 speaker system. Not yet confirmed. This bug is NOT in V2.07 or "test" V2.07f, but IS in "test" V2.07g or later.


6) Changing inputs may crash the audio DSP so badly that a power cycle is required to reset things. Fixed in "test" V2.07i. Personally, I've never experienced this in "test" V2.07f.


7) After an extended period of viewing HDMI 1080p/24 video, all sources of ANALOG video input may be lost. This includes the on-screen Setup menu which is an internally generated S-video source. This bug has been observed in V2.07 and "test" V2.07g. It apparently does NOT exist in "test" V2.07f, or "test" V2.07i. The workaround is to power-cycle the Anthem. This bug MAY be fixed in V2.07f and V2.07i, it's not clear yet.


8) The special bass test tones included in the Room Resonance Filter menu are broken in V2.07 and "test" V2.07f. I've not yet tried them with V2.07i.


9) Ticks/pops from some 7.1 DTS-HD MA bitstream tracks, but only if you have a 7.1 speaker configuration. Confirmed in "test" V2.07f. Not yet fixed.


10) Buzz/snap noise when HDMI Bitstream audio starts from the Pioneer Elite DV-59avi SD-DVD player. All versions. Not yet fixed.


11) Un-Dithered HDMI Video output from the Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray player and 36-bit output from the PS3 both do not look as good as Dithered output from the Oppo. Still under investigation. All versions.


12) Changing Sources using 1080i Component video from the same device where the Sources differ in applying Edges cropping or a Custom crop may not have the crop actually take effect. Confirmed in V2.07. Fixed in "test" V2.07f or later.


13) Changing between SD and HD channels using 1080i HDMI video for both from the Comcast/Motorola DCH series HD/DVRs may cause a slight shift in black levels. Cured by toggling Edges in the Video Source Adjust menu so this is definitely an Anthem bug. All versions up through V2.07g. Not yet tested in V2.07i.


------------------------------------------------


In addition to the firmware bugs listed above, there is a problem with the ARC application Windows PC installer for ARC V2.2 or older. Microsoft pushed out an OS update in September that breaks the ARC installer on both XP and Vista. ARC V2.3 fixes this.


However, folks who have ARC install CDs made prior to the end of September still have the older ARC on those CDs. So if folks need to re-install ARC from scratch on a new disc drive or new computer, they need to take some extra steps to get around this problem -- detailed here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...01post17274801 


------------------------------------------------------


Right now, "official" V2.07 firmware is best as regards handling of audio formats. "Test" V2.07f and V2.07i are more stable -- in the sense that you are not likely to encounter a situation where you need to power cycle the Anthem. But both of them have the problems listed above for audio.


Personally, I think V2.07f is the best choice at the moment for a 5.1 speaker configuration and V2.07 is the best choice for a 7.1 speaker configuration.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by */dev/null* /forum/post/17413715
> 
> 
> Found an interesting little bug in the 50v setup menu...
> 
> I'm running my Pioneer universal disc play to the 50v via HDMI for CDs, and via 6ch analog for SACD/DVD-A. What I did, was configure the 6-CH input with no DSP- direct analog. I then set the CD input to also look at the 6-ch input, but with DSP on, as I might want to use the PLIIx or NEO decoders.
> 
> Here's where the bug comes in. When I go to the Modes menu, to tell the CD input to default to 'none' for processing, it only allows me to set the 2.0 mode. Now, whenever I go to that input, it defaults to PLIIx, not none.
> 
> So, is this a 'bug' or a 'feature'?



Sounds like a bug to me.


The ability to attach any analog input jack set to any Source definition is new. It used to be that your only choice for analog audio input for, say, the CD source was the stereo RCA jack pair labeled CD.


And thus you never needed more than the 2.0 and 2.0 Surround options in Mode Presets.


[I.e., if you wanted to use the 6-ch analog input jack set you had to use the 6-ch SOURCE definition.]


Now that they've added the flexibility to assign ANY analog input jack set to any Source definition, the Mode Presets menu needs to react properly if someone does what you did and assigns the 6-ch input.


In fact I suspect that's actually happening (which is why you are getting PLIIx as the default. It's just that the menu isn't reflecting that so you can CHANGE the default.


Please write up the details and email to Anthem tech support. There's no guarantee they will read your report in this thread. This should be an easy bug to fix, and may, indeed already be fixed in one of the "test" software versions.


---------------------------------


By the way, you should be aware that using ANALOG-DIRECT also means you get no ARC processing on your SACD/DVD-A input.


So far, everyone who's reported here says the gains from allowing ARC to operate on the analog inputs dramatically outweighs any potential loss of quality from re-digitizing that analog input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *7ryder* /forum/post/17413571
> 
> 
> Hey Bob -
> 
> Way back in this thread you posted these great comments above. I was wondering if, after people have had some time to spend with their D2Vs and AVM50vs, if the consensus is still that the AVM50v is a bargain?
> 
> 
> Also, has anyone had a chance to do a shoot-out between the two?
> 
> 
> I apologize in advance if this has been asked, but I couldn't find this in the 800+ pages of this very active thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping to join the club,
> 
> 
> ChrisG
> 
> Seattle, WA



I believe we've only had TWO posters here who've had a chance to do a serious audio comparison between the AVM 50v and D2v (the video is identical). This is difficult because to do it right you need to take the time to really set both up correctly -- complete with ARC setup.


In both cases, these were people who got the AVM 50v and decided for their own reasons they were going to switch to a D2v -- so they were already biased in favor of the D2v. And neither of them had the AVM 50v and the D2v set up at the same time.


Nevertheless, both reported they were surprised by how much better the D2v sounded. Now the AVM 50v is no slouch in audio by any means. It's just that the D2v is better and both of these folks said they could hear the difference.


--------------------------------------------------


We've had quite a few posters compare the older AVM 50 vs. the older D2. Some of these folks even had the chance to do side by side comparisons. Some of them ended up getting the AVM 50 for the cost savings, but all agreed the D2 was better sounding -- that they could hear the difference.


-------------------------------------------------


Personally, I've never listened to either an AVM 50 or an AVM 50v. But I believe the reports we've had here about how good they both sound.


I moved from a D2 to a D2v and was frankly surprised that I could both see and hear improvement in the D2v (once we got past some bugs in the first D2v firmware).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17413437
> 
> 
> Hope this works:
> 
> Attachment 156057
> 
> Attachment 156058
> 
> Attachment 156059
> 
> Attachment 156060
> 
> 
> How do they look?



These look fine.


I agree with the previous reply that you MIGHT want to fiddle with the positioning of Center a little, but really the residual error is small enough that you could just as well declare victory now.


If you Measure again, I suggest you go through the exercise to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and also the volume knob in your subwoofer as the basic volume level in your solution is about 9dB higher than the 75dB I usually recommend. This is not that big a deal so long as you don't have any room buzzes that might be reacting to the higher volume test tones you are using now.


What you have right now should sound very good indeed for both Movie and Music.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/17411456
> 
> 
> I have a D2v with Arc setup in a 7.1 system and will be getting a pair of JL f112's to replace a single sub. The D2v has 2 sub inputs, should I use both of those or just Sub1 and then "master-slave"/ "daisychain" the subs.
> 
> 
> I understand that there is "setting phase and polarity" in the intro to this forum which I will read, but are there any particulars/hints which relate specifically to the JLs that I should know? I'm pretty sure that many of you Anthem owners are also JL owners.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I suggest you wire each subwoofer up to a separate sub output on the D2v. Use the same type of output (RCA or XLR) for both.


When used with ARC you must set your speaker configuration to "1 Sub" regardless of the fact that you have more than 1 subwoofer.


The sub outputs of the D2v carry the same signal, so you can't set separate volume trims or Polarity/Phase for your 2 subs. Read the notes in the first post of this thread for discussion of how to handle this, but simply put you set up each sub on its own (the other sub powered off) using the controls built into the sub.


For example, set each sub on its own to yield roughly 72dB SPL and the pair of them will produce roughly 75dB SPL together. ARC will provide the necessary volume trim to refine the output of the pair of them together.


And set each sub on its own to be in proper Polarity/Phase with the Left Front main speaker. When they are each in proper Phase with LF then they are also in Phase with each other.


As always, disable any crossover built into each sub. If you can't disable it entirely, turn it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/17410300
> 
> 
> I also have a D2 with v1.47f and did not fix the hdmi handshake for me.
> 
> I have the following configuration:
> 
> Comcast Motorola DCH3200 -> D2 -> Sony XBR8
> 
> And sometime it goes into those infinite HDMI handshake (Black screen, snow, black screen, snow, ...). And the only to get out of it is either to power off the D2 + really power it off with the back switch and then power it back on. Or unplug the hdmi from the back of my tv, wait for D2 to do its handshake for sound then plug the tv back in, with a few more handshake for picture, but then it stabilize down and I get both picture and sound.
> 
> 
> It seems to happen more often when I am switching between hdmi sources that have different frequency (e.g bd player at 24hz and comcast box at 60hz).



Try this test. Power off and unplug the HDMI cable to the display. Then power up and try switching between HDMI sources -- if you use HDMI audio from each of them you'll know that the handshake has completed because the audio will be playing. You'll also be able to follow the front panel display on the D2 to see that the video resolution has settled down.


I suspect this will work. And if so, that means the problem is on the DISPLAY side of things. If may be a problem in your Sony (check for a firmware update), but it is more likely to be the cable to the Sony.


Another thing to try is the alternate Sync setting in Setup > Video Output. Some displays may work better with Sync inverted.


If you find you need to adjust horizontal position on your display with your current Sync setting, this would be an indication that you are using the wrong Sync setting.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17409315
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I was testing the analog MCH and Stereo outputs of my Oppo BDP-83 player and noticed the bass/LFE content in the MCH outputs is much lower than the Stereo outputs into my 50v. I want the Anthem to do all bass managemtn functions. Would this be the 5dB difference often talked about when doing analog bass management? The Oppo speaker configuration is set to Large.
> 
> 
> How can I compensate or add this extra 5dB using the 50v?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



In the Oppo's Setup > Audio Processing > Speaker Configuration menu be sure that all speakers are set to Large and that the subwoofer output is turned ON.


The volume trims for all speakers in that menu should also be set to 0dB.


And they should all be set to be at the same distance -- any distance will do so long as they are all the same.


This leaves all the speaker management stuff to the Anthem.


When set this way the analog LFE output to the Anthem will be 10dB low and the multi-channel analog input of the Anthem will automatically provide the proper 10dB boost.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/17408586
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Also, I was wondering what one does when pairing a paradigm sub that is equipped with their perfect bass kit (ARC for their sub) with the ANTHEM D2 with ARC.
> 
> 
> I am considering getting their new Sig Sub2 out later this month and it comes with perfect bass kit/ARC.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any input on Paradigm's new SIG. SUB2 or SUB1?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> -b



The PBK is simply the subwoofer only portion or ARC implemented in the processor on the sub.


When you are using a PBK equipped sub with an ARC equipped Anthem processor there is no need to use the PBK in the sub. ARC will handle all that as well as handling the solution for your other speakers.


You only need to use the PBK if the sub is attached to a processor that doesn't include ARC.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Bob - I know you have been a proponent of disabling EQ solutions in subwoofers but wouldn't a properly EQ'ed sub make less work for ARC freeing up resources for other issues?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17421419
> 
> 
> Bob - I know you have been a proponent of disabling EQ solutions in subwoofers but wouldn't a properly EQ'ed sub make less work for ARC freeing up resources for other issues?



It could. But if ARC can do the job by itself that's better because it means one less level of processing.


So START by trying to get a solution with ARC alone.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17420539
> 
> 
> In the Oppo's Setup > Audio Processing > Speaker Configuration menu be sure that all speakers are set to Large and that the subwoofer output is turned ON.
> 
> 
> The volume trims for all speakers in that menu should also be set to 0dB.
> 
> 
> And they should all be set to be at the same distance -- any distance will do so long as they are all the same.
> 
> 
> This leaves all the speaker management stuff to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> When set this way the analog LFE output to the Anthem will be 10dB low and the multi-channel analog input of the Anthem will automatically provide the proper 10dB boost.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob:


Now I'm confused after I told Nick at Anthem what you told me. Where is BM done on the analog channels? Is it done by the source player or the AVR. You say on the AVR. He says the BD player.







His e-mail is listed below:

... When the player decodes and converts to multichannel analog, it's also playing the role of the decoder and processor (i.e. taking the place of the AVM 50v), therefore it's the player that must add 10 dB to the sub channel. This is standard, i.e. 10 dB being added where the D to A conversion occurs.


Thanks,

Nick


Who is correct?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17413765
> 
> 
> Very nice curves, but if I may be picky, I say the center speaker is the only speaker that need some placement experimentation, a movement of 6 inches from the original location to start with might spell the difference between great and outstanding!




May I ask what it is you see that would make you want to move the speaker?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17420296
> 
> 
> These look fine.
> 
> 
> I agree with the previous reply that you MIGHT want to fiddle with the positioning of Center a little, but really the residual error is small enough that you could just as well declare victory now.
> 
> 
> If you Measure again, I suggest you go through the exercise to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and also the volume knob in your subwoofer as the basic volume level in your solution is about 9dB higher than the 75dB I usually recommend. This is not that big a deal so long as you don't have any room buzzes that might be reacting to the higher volume test tones you are using now.
> 
> 
> What you have right now should sound very good indeed for both Movie and Music.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob!


With the BDP-83 fed into the D2v, should the Oppos 1080p24 Output be set to Auto, On or Off?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17422845
> 
> 
> Where is BM done on the analog channels? Is it done by the source player or the AVR. You say on the AVR. He says the BD player.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His e-mail is listed below:
> 
> ... When the player decodes and converts to multichannel analog, it's also playing the role of the decoder and processor (i.e. taking the place of the AVM 50v), therefore it's the player that must add 10 dB to the sub channel. This is standard, i.e. 10 dB being added where the D to A conversion occurs.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Nick
> 
> 
> Who is correct?



Hmm, I'm a little surprised Nick said that. No player should ever add 10dB to the sub out or the LFE channel. That would need 6 Vrms at the line output, and neither they, nor the inputs they drive, are made for that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17423034
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob!
> 
> 
> With the BDP-83 fed into the D2v, should the Oppos 1080p24 Output be set to Auto, On or Off?



I recommend 1080p/24 Auto from the Oppo to the D2v, whether or not your DISPLAY likes 1080p/24 input.


I recommend you leave DVD/24 OFF by default in the Oppo. When playing better quality, newer SD-DVD transfers, and assuming you have a display that likes 1080p/24 input, you can try turning it on to see how things go, but at the first sign of trouble turn it back off again. If your display doesn't like 1080p/24 there's no point in turning on DVD/24 in the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17422845
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob:
> 
> 
> Now I'm confused after I told Nick at Anthem what you told me. Where is BM done on the analog channels? Is it done by the source player or the AVR. You say on the AVR. He says the BD player.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His e-mail is listed below:
> 
> ... When the player decodes and converts to multichannel analog, it's also playing the role of the decoder and processor (i.e. taking the place of the AVM 50v), therefore it's the player that must add 10 dB to the sub channel. This is standard, i.e. 10 dB being added where the D to A conversion occurs.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Nick
> 
> 
> Who is correct?



I am correct. But I suspect Nick was answering a different question from what you think he was answering. So he's correct too.


Try the Oppo speaker configuration settings I described for its multi-channel analog output (all LARGE, subwoofer ON, 0dB volume trims, and all at same distance). Use ANALOG-DSP for the 6-channel input in the Anthem. Set that way, bass management (bass steering, crossovers, etc.) happens in the Anthem just as it does for the digital audio inputs.


See if that doesn't give you what you want.


---------------------------------------


I see you've also gotten things a bit tangled over in the Oppo thread as well. You quoted together two posts that were talking about very different things: My post that talks about levels on the analog LFE output of the Oppo in the normal case where that output is live (i.e., you've told the Oppo you have a subwoofer) and a separate post that talks about what happens if you specify you have NO SUBWOOFER in the Oppo multi-channel analog speaker configuration.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17423028
> 
> 
> May I ask what it is you see that would make you want to move the speaker?



He spotted the small residual error (after ARC correction) found in the Room Gain hump for Center, and thought some modest repositioning of Center would reduce the Measured dip there and allow ARC to provide complete correction.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17423873
> 
> 
> I am correct. But I suspect Nick was answering a different question from what you think he was answering. So he's correct too.
> 
> 
> Try the Oppo speaker configuration settings I described for its multi-channel analog output (all LARGE, subwoofer ON, 0dB volume trims, and all at same distance). Use ANALOG-DSP for the 6-channel input in the Anthem. Set that way, bass management (bass steering, crossovers, etc.) happens in the Anthem just as it does for the digital audio inputs.
> 
> 
> See if that doesn't give you what you want.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I see you've also gotten things a bit tangled over in the Oppo thread as well. You quoted together two posts that were talking about very different things: My post that talks about levels on the analog LFE output of the Oppo in the normal case where that output is live (i.e., you've told the Oppo you have a subwoofer) and a separate post that talks about what happens if you specify you have NO SUBWOOFER in the Oppo multi-channel analog speaker configuration.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I realize the settings you noted above for the Oppo is for multi-channel analog, but do these Oppo settings impact playback of blu-rays thru HDMI?


----------



## chrbright

Here's my initial ARC results. Recommendations/comments are much appreciated.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17423873
> 
> 
> I am correct. But I suspect Nick was answering a different question from what you think he was answering. So he's correct too.
> 
> 
> Try the Oppo speaker configuration settings I described for its multi-channel analog output (all LARGE, subwoofer ON, 0dB volume trims, and all at same distance). Use ANALOG-DSP for the 6-channel input in the Anthem. Set that way, bass management (bass steering, crossovers, etc.) happens in the Anthem just as it does for the digital audio inputs.
> 
> 
> See if that doesn't give you what you want.
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


After communicating with Nick at Anthem, it now seems the primary mix-up was on my end for the most part. I was playing a 2CH CD source which has nothing to do with LFE Bass at all AND using the AnthemLogic-MUSIC mode for this 2CH source. *AL-MUSIC is special.* So yes, the Anthem does the BM correctly at Oppo analogs are fine as well.


Well, just how special is AL-Music? It ADDs a *+4dB* of Bass boost to the signal







!


Apparently, Nick said he was against this bass boost way back in 2002 (initial design stage for the D2/AVM series???) and was obviously overuled (a condition many of us engineers are often subjected to by management







). He said he brought it up recently for re-evaluation (with results unknown to date???).


He suggested to reduce the bass boost by 4dB when using AL-MUSIC to match the 2CH and the 6CH and all other inputs modes for that matter. Only AL-MUSIC has this bass boost. AL-Cinema and all other processing modes do not have this 4 dB boost.


So the 'problem' has been solved, What I thought was a bug is actually a feature







. Glad to know I'm not hearing things after all...


Thanks all for the help you've provided. Now back to our regularly scheduled programming...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17424458
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I realize the settings you noted above for the Oppo is for multi-channel analog, but do these Oppo settings impact playback of blu-rays thru HDMI?



They do not.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Not that it really relates directly to your question, I did an in home AVM 30/MCA 50 audition and ended up with a D1/P5. I bought the D1 based rig largely based on being disappointed in the AVM 30's sound at home after hearing the D1 in the store. Was looking to save money considering the AVM 30. I had the option of returning the D1 if I was not satisfied and never considered it. It was not side by side but the difference was not subtle. The only down side I see with the D1 over time is that now that I feel locked in to the D2v as my next upgrade for fear that I will loose the audio quality I have now take for granted.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *7ryder* /forum/post/17413571
> 
> 
> Hey Bob -
> 
> Way back in this thread you posted these great comments above. I was wondering if, after people have had some time to spend with their D2Vs and AVM50vs, if the consensus is still that the AVM50v is a bargain?
> 
> 
> Also, has anyone had a chance to do a shoot-out between the two?
> 
> 
> I apologize in advance if this has been asked, but I couldn't find this in the 800+ pages of this very active thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping to join the club,
> 
> 
> ChrisG
> 
> Seattle, WA


----------



## programmergeek

For the F-112 or F-113 wire one to the D2v via XLR and the subs have a link to link up to 8 together I beleve. I have 2 f-113 and use a XLR cable to link them together, that is how they are ment to be run.


Any word on the audio crashing and dropping out issue with TIVO3 if it is fixed or being looked at, how long till a fix?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrbright* /forum/post/17424593
> 
> 
> Here's my initial ARC results. Recommendations/comments are much appreciated.



First of all, welcome to AVS and to the Cool Kids Thread!


These look quite good, but you clearly still have some uncorrected stuff at the highest frequencies.


Now that's all within the range ARC can correct (except for LF/RF and just possibly C -- see below) if you push Max EQ Frequency up to 20KHz from the 10KHz you have right now.


However Center is already showing more wobbles in its green Calculated curve in the low and mid range than I like, and if you push up Max EQ Frequency those may get worse. So the question is why is ARC having trouble with Center?


Well it's two things. First Center Measures with a dip in the upper bass and low mid-range and second your subwoofer doesn't extend much above 80Hz so ARC has to pretty much rely on Center for its own correction. Actually I'm a bit surprised ARC picked a crossover as low as 60Hz for Center.


So here's what I suggest:


1) Check the setting for the crossover built into your subwoofer. It looks from the red Measured curve for Sub that it might be set at 80Hz. In fact you want to disable it entirely, or if that's not possible, crank it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. That will give your Sub more extension above 80Hz. Note that if your Sub has a "THX" setting that will enforce an 80Hz crossover, so you don't want to use that.


2) Do a new set of Measurements. These should show more extension above 80Hz in the Sub. Now try raising Max EQ Frequency all the way up to 20KHz. If that still results in 2dB or more wobbles in Center, back that off a bit and look for a compromise setting between 10KHz and 20KHz that eliminates most of the high frequency errors without also producing the wobbles in Center. Due to the way ARC does its internal processing, you may find some unexpected results such as 17KHz looking good while 16KHz and 18KHz BOTH look worse. So experiment around a bit -- it takes almost no time at all to try different values and see what you get.


3) I suspect this will give you complete correction for everything except LF/RF. If you still have some residual high frequency errors in LF/RF revisit how they are pointed. You don't want them pointing directly at the center seating. The Rule of Thumb I use is to swing them only 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular to the screen towards center seating. Also, if they are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing. You only need a tiny improvement in the red Measured curve for LF/RF at high frequencies to get them into the range ARC can correct completely (about 6dB or less of error needing correction). You might also need a modest adjustment in the vertical pointing for Center. If you repoint any of the speakers you will need to re-Measure.


What you have right now should sound quite good, but with a bit of effort I think you can get it better. In particular, smoothing out Calculated for Center in the 100-500Hz range will pay big dividends in how clear and natural speech sounds.


-------------------------------------------------------


I also notice your basic volume level for this solution is a bit higher than I recommend. This is the volume of the flat part of the Target curves in the mid range. I like to get it closer to 75dB.


To do that, prior to your next Measurement, go through the exercise to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level, and the volume knob in your subwoofer. You will need your trusty, Radio Shack SPL meter set to "slow" response and "C" weighting and to the measurement range that puts 75dB in the middle of the range -- the "70dB" setting on the digital version of that meter.


Go into Setup > Level Calibration and zero out all the lines. Do not skip this step.


Then set Manual test mode in the first line and scroll down to Test Level. The test noise will be coming from LF. Adjust the Test Level line to yield roughly 75dB SPL measured at ARC mic position #1. Hold the SPL meter at arm's length, pointed straight up, at seated ear height -- but not adjacent to a reflective surface like a seat back. Raise the meter a few inches or position it about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from a seat back.


Once you've done that, leave Test Level at that setting and scroll down to a subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB. Instead, adjust the volume knob built into your subwoofer to yield roughly 75dB SPL measured the same way.


Now you can do your ARC Measurements. ARC will use the Test Level setting to set the volume of its test sweep tones. And your adjustment for the volume knob in the sub insures the sub is already roughly in balance with the main speakers. Ballpark settings are fine for both of these. ARC will determine the precise speaker volume trims and Upload them into the Level Calibration menu -- leaving Test Level unchanged so you don't have to do this exercise more than once.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/17427080
> 
> 
> Any word on the audio crashing and dropping out issue with TIVO3 if it is fixed or being looked at, how long till a fix?



I believe it may have been fixed in "test" D2v firmware V2.07i, just put up on Anthem's password protected download page. There's a fix mentioned in the release notes for V2.07i that appears to be addressing just that bug.


I suspect an "official" release of this fix may not happen until the Dolby Volume firmware gets released, but I suppose that depends how far off that still is.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/17427080
> 
> 
> For the F-112 or F-113 wire one to the D2v via XLR and the subs have a link to link up to 8 together I beleve. I have 2 f-113 and use a XLR cable to link them together, that is how they are ment to be run.



Just curious, but except for cabling convenience, why should it make a difference?


Generally I recommend wiring multiple subs directly to the Anthem as that makes it easier to do setup steps where you only want to have one sub at a time powered on. I.e., some subs with daisy chain capability will only do that if they are ALL powered on.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

So far, using "test" D2v firmware V2.07i I have seen no instances of the bug where all analog video input is lost (including on-screen display of the Setup menu) after an extended period of viewing HDMI 1080p/24 video. It's hard to prove a negative, particularly since there's no mention of this bug actually having been addressed in the release notes, but it looks like V2.07i may be just as free of this bug as V2.07f. The bug has been observed both in "official" V2.07, and in "test" V2.07g.

--Bob


----------



## Korey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/17425147
> 
> 
> Not that it really relates directly to your question, I did an in home AVM 30/MCA 50 audition and ended up with a D1/P5. I bought the D1 based rig largely based on being disappointed in the AVM 30's sound at home after hearing the D1 in the store. Was looking to save money considering the AVM 30. I had the option of returning the D1 if I was not satisfied and never considered it. It was not side by side but the difference was not subtle. The only down side I see with the D1 over time is that now that I feel locked in to the D2v as my next upgrade for fear that I will loose the audio quality I have now take for granted.



I love my D1/Bryston combo as well. With all the HDMI issues the newer processors have, I'll keep my D1 for a long long time, I have ZERO problems.







My Pioneer 5010HD handles all the video inputs I will ever need. I see no use for additional video processing in my situation. For your Bluray HD Audio, use the multi channel analog inputs and there is your lossless audio. It's all whatever works best for you..


----------



## peechus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17424654
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> After communicating with Nick at Anthem, it now seems the primary mix-up was on my end for the most part. I was playing a 2CH CD source which has nothing to do with LFE Bass at all AND using the AnthemLogic-MUSIC mode for this 2CH source. *AL-MUSIC is special.* So yes, the Anthem does the BM correctly at Oppo analogs are fine as well.
> 
> 
> Well, just how special is AL-Music? It ADDs a *+4dB* of Bass boost to the signal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> Apparently, Nick said he was against this bass boost way back in 2002 (initial design stage for the D2/AVM series???) and was obviously overuled (a condition many of us engineers are often subjected to by management
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). He said he brought it up recently for re-evaluation (with results unknown to date???).
> 
> 
> He suggested to reduce the bass boost by 4dB when using AL-MUSIC to match the 2CH and the 6CH and all other inputs modes for that matter. Only AL-MUSIC has this bass boost. AL-Cinema and all other processing modes do not have this 4 dB boost.
> 
> 
> So the 'problem' has been solved, What I thought was a bug is actually a feature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Glad to know I'm not hearing things after all...
> 
> 
> Thanks all for the help you've provided. Now back to our regularly scheduled programming...



could this 4db bass boost be the contributor to my subs excessive bass helping my 'ol fashioned surrounds' rolloff or should i keep looking for those new surrounds"? peechus.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/17427080
> 
> 
> For the F-112 or F-113 wire one to the D2v via XLR and the subs have a link to link up to 8 together I beleve. I have 2 f-113 and use a XLR cable to link them together, that is how they are ment to be run.
> 
> 
> Any word on the audio crashing and dropping out issue with TIVO3 if it is fixed or being looked at, how long till a fix?



Hello Programmergeek,

I also have F113. I would like to know how you adjust the volume on the sub. Because the sub has 2 modes. One to adjust the vollume on the sub and the other is to disable the vollume on the sub (reference) and is set up based on the processor (d2v). When I run the ARC, I adjust the vollume on the sub to read about 75db the same as the main vollume. When I upload the ARC, the "reference" vollume is not accurate so I have to change it to work with the sub vollume. This is a bit confusing to make it work but can make a guess to get the right vollume from sub. Would you tell me how you perform this adjustment. I appreciate it.


----------



## programmergeek

I actually have my volume up about 1/4 of the way on the first sub. The second will follow since it is synced witht he first. From there I ran the JL built in room sweep then the ARC and that is it. My set up is a bit different since I am also using a velodyne SMS1 in between to taylor my bass.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/17428794
> 
> 
> I actually have my volume up about 1/4 of the way on the first sub. The second will follow since it is synced witht he first. From there I ran the JL built in room sweep then the ARC and that is it. My set up is a bit different since I am also using a velodyne SMS1 in between to taylor my bass.



Thanks.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17427303
> 
> 
> So far, using "test" D2v firmware V2.07i I have seen no instances of the bug where all analog video input is lost (including on-screen display of the Setup menu) after an extended period of viewing HDMI 1080p/24 video. It's hard to prove a negative, particularly since there's no mention of this bug actually having been addressed in the release notes, but it looks like V2.07i may be just as free of this bug as V2.07f. The bug has been observed both in "official" V2.07, and in "test" V2.07g.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Bob, if I get the time maybe I will load 2.07i and see if this bug is gone on my setup as well.



Regards,


----------



## overkil

Hop someone can help me with this. I have used the search tool for this thread and just can not find anything to help me with connecting the imac mini to the processor. It starts out ok with the load up logo showing up on screen and then the image just goes a solid yellow clour and the desktop just does not load up. I have succesfuly done the v1.33 upgrade and am using mini display to HDMI into the AVM50 with optical for sound. I tested the same setup on my friends Denon which is 4-5 years old and it works great. I have spoken with Anthem as well and so far nothing works, they say the problem is with the handshake. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## programmergeek

Bob if you are only power one sub and doing the set up with two it will through off the arc. Yes you can wire both to the anthem but JL recomends wireing both together. Not sure what way is really correct.


----------



## bluemark81

Was there a 2.07h or did they skip a letter?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/17429571
> 
> 
> Bob if you are only power one sub and doing the set up with two it will through off the arc. Yes you can wire both to the anthem but JL recomends wireing both together. Not sure what way is really correct.



You misunderstand. You only power one sub at a time when setting the sub's internal volume (so that you can balance both subs against each other) and when setting the sub's Polarity/Phase (so that you can get each sub in turn in proper phase with the main speakers).


When running the ARC setup of course you have both of them powered on together just as with normal listening.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17429621
> 
> 
> Was there a 2.07h or did they skip a letter?



V2.07h never made it out as a "test" version.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17429277
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Bob, if I get the time maybe I will load 2.07i and see if this bug is gone on my setup as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Keep in mind that JAYRAY says V2.07i still has the 5.1 to 7.1 surround processing problem that forced you back to V2.07.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *overkil* /forum/post/17429519
> 
> 
> Hop someone can help me with this. I have used the search tool for this thread and just can not find anything to help me with connecting the imac mini to the processor. It starts out ok with the load up logo showing up on screen and then the image just goes a solid yellow clour and the desktop just does not load up. I have succesfuly done the v1.33 upgrade and am using mini display to HDMI into the AVM50 with optical for sound. I tested the same setup on my friends Denon which is 4-5 years old and it works great. I have spoken with Anthem as well and so far nothing works, they say the problem is with the handshake. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.



Anthem has a "test" firmware version that fixes the same problem with AppleTV and should, I think, also fix it with the Mini. It is V1.47f. Unfortunately it is not yet available for all production runs of the AVM 50. Give Anthem tech support a call and ask them if they think V1.47f firmware should fix your problem and whether your particular AVM 50 is OK to install it on. If so, they will get you access to it.


Both the Mini and AppleTV use a legal, but unusual, version of the HDMI handshake, and Anthem was unable to support it in the V1.33 firmware without breaking the much more common cable TV boxes. The V1.47f firmware has modified HDMI code which allows them to support both types of handshake. I know it works with AppleTV and I think it should also work with the Mini.

--Bob


----------



## chrbright

Thanks Bob! I will reset the signal calibration levels and make the suggested changes. I was surprised by the wobbles for the center speaker since LF/CC/RF are identical speakers (except for the horizontal orientation of the CC). My system sounded better after the insertion of the D2v. ARC takes it to another level of sonic resolution and coherence.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17430091
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that JAYRAY says V2.07i still has the 5.1 to 7.1 surround processing problem that forced you back to V2.07.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


I know but it would be good to know that this problem (the analog bug) has in fact been corrected.



Regards,


----------



## studlygoorite

Not that I would want to do this, but I am being asked. Can you not put music that is 5.1 input into 7 channel stereo output?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm working an issue with 36-bit video imaging quality that may turn out to be a D2v bug -- it's not clear yet.


This is particularly annoying with the PS3 since there's no way to disable 36-bit video from the PS3.


If you want to play along, check out the sky background viewed through the fog in "Ratatouille" Blu-Ray in Chapter 10 at time code 31:03. NOTE: You won't be able to play along with the SD-DVD version since that sky is constructed differently in the SD-DVD transfer.


If things are working properly, that sky ramp should be completely smooth.


-------------------------------------


For the PS3, the best solution I've found so far is to use RGB Full output. However you ALSO need to adjust the input level settings on the D2v to constrain its video range to 17-235 instead of the 17-254 range that includes Peak White data.


For example, I normally use D2v input settings (Video Source Adjust > Picture) of 50 Brightness and 50 Contrast. I need to change those to 49 Brightness and 54 Contrast to get good results using RGB Full from the PS3. Of course you also have to change the setting in Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space so that "Extended RGB" is checked instead of "Studio RGB".


For the Oppo using YCbCr (either 4:4:4 or 4:2:2), the best solution I've found so far is to use 30-bit Dithered output from the Oppo instead of 36-bit. NOTE: I'm using Beta Oppo firmware that fixes the YCbCr 4:2:2 gray scale level problem I mentioned a few days back. Until that makes it into public release, use YCbCr 4:4:4 from the Oppo, instead of 4:2:2, when connected to the D2v or AVM 50v. [Use YCbCr 4:4:4, Deep Color OFF (Dithered) when connected to a D2 or AVM 50.]


However I get NEARLY as good a result using RGB Video Level at 36-bit from the Oppo -- and without having to alter the input video level settings in the D2v.


----------------------------------


I suspect what is going on here is an error in the low order two bits of the color difference channels for 36-bit YCbCr -- and possibly for non-Dithered video at 30-bit or 24-bit. It's not clear yet whether this is a bug common to the Oppo and the PS3 (which is plausible albeit weird) or a bug in the D2v.


Investigations continue.

--Bob


[EDITED TO ADD: Use YCbCr 4:4:4, Deep Color OFF (Dithered) from the Oppo with a D2 or AVM 50.]


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17433326
> 
> 
> Not that I would want to do this, but I am being asked. Can you not put music that is 5.1 input into 7 channel stereo output?



No, you can't. All Channel Stereo mode is for 2.0 input, not for 5.1.


See Manual Sections 4.8.8 and 4.8.9 and compare against 4.8.7.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New D2v / AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.07j now on Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem has placed new "test" firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v, V2.07j, on their password protected download page. Change notes since "official" V2.07 read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07j beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed 7.1 downmix to 5.1.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed DTS-MA decoding when 5.1 or more speakers are used.
> 
> 
> 3. Fixed audio dropout when SPDIF source changes from DTS/Dolby to PCM.
> 
> 
> Known issue: PCM sources with no L/R content are muted even though there is content in other channels.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07i beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Added reset for audio DSP crash that somtimes occurred when changing source and resulted in need for AC reboot.
> 
> 
> 2. Improved HDMI switching.
> 
> 
> Known issue: Preset surround mode does not take effect when a stereo source is selected (mode can still be selected manually).
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07g beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for audio loss when some advanced bass management settings were changed manually.
> 
> 
> 2. Small change to DTS Master Audio display since unabbreviated display is required.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Faster HDMI lock when switching sources.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07e beta:
> 
> 
> 1. More changes to address video switching, audio dropouts, and audio glitches.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. More changes to video code base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Video processor code base updates.
> 
> 
> 2. Audio DSP code base update.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for Sony as second monitor.



This is the first set of Beta firmware release notes in some time to *NOT* include the *SCARY WARNING!* that an install failure (in particular, during the programming of the video board) might require the unit to be returned to the Anthem factory for corrective reprogramming.


Until we confirm that the *SCARY WARNING!* really no longer applies, play it safe. Do NOT install this firmware unless you are confident that your firmware install setup (Windows PC and serial connection) work well. One way to test this is to install "official" V2.07 on top of itself a couple times.


As usual, "test" firmware is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises.


There are several important audio bug fixes noted in the V2.07j. The new "Known Issue" has been previously reported here (by me). I don't know whether the previous "Known Issue" (see V2.07i notes above) has been fixed or not.


One important audio bug that isn't specifically addressed in the release notes is the bug where 5.1 input does not get properly raised to 7.1 speaker output. Folks with a 7.1 speaker setup will need to test that. And we'll also need to test the V2.07i "Known Issue".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've got an email in to Nick to check on some of these V2.07j questions.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

So far pretty good with V2.07j!


I can confirm that 7.1 to 5.1 down-mix is working again and DTS-HD MA decoding seems to be working properly for both 5.1 and 7.1 streams in my 5.1 speaker system.


In particular HDMI Bitstream of the 7.1 DTS-HD MA Channel ID test from the AIX disc WORKS AGAIN on my 5.1 speaker system! Pretty cool as many decoding AVRs can't make this work due to DTS' weirdness and the special trick AIX has done to guarantee you hear the lossless track or nothing (i.e., never the core).


As Nick noted, the LPCM problem remains if no content in L or R.


One down-side so far: The Buzz-Snap when audio streams change from my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi has gotten worse.


Using the Audio Setup test on "Ratatouille" SD-DVD -- HDMI 480i Studio RGB HDMI Bitstream of the DD5.1 -- it used to Buzz Snap when Center started the test and also if you left it on Center long enough for the test tone to cycle. Now it does a fairly loud Buzz or Buzz-Snap each time you press Enter to move from speaker to speaker in the test.


[That Pioneer is one of the original HDMI V1.0 devices, and evidently there's something about HDMI V1.3 in the D2v that doesn't play nice with it.]

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

On the *SCARY WARNING!* for the V2.07x Beta ("test") releases, Nick tells me they now believe the odds of a problem are sufficiently rare that they felt the warning was overly alarmist. So they've removed it.


If you have not done a firmware install before, you can give yourself some added peace of mind by first trying a re-install of your CURRENT firmware version to show that your Windows PC and serial connection really do work before you try your first install of a NEW firmware version. Do the re-install just like a new install -- i.e., Reload Factory Defaults before-hand, and make sure you have no powered HDMI connections during the install. NOTE: These extra steps are for FIRMWARE installs. They are not needed when doing and ARC setup or Upload.


Remember that you can backup your Setup menu settings to a PC file using the SettingsBackup utility, and you can backup your Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file using the LiveVideoSettingsEditor utility -- both found in the Utilities folder of the ARC install kit. This is in addition to Saving your settings (both Setup and Video Source Adjust get saved) in User and/or Installer Settings prior to Reloading Factory Defaults, and Loading them back in from there after the firmware install.


------------------------------


On Windows 7, Nick confirms that ARC V2.3 does not work with it (the mic is not handled properly). There is no ETA on a new version yet. Due to press of other business, they have not yet checked whether the firmware installers or other utilities have any problems in Windows 7. They MIGHT work if you are feeling adventurous enough to try. Otherwise stick with XP for now (or Vista if you are so unfortunate as to have that).

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17439869
> 
> 
> On the *SCARY WARNING!* for the V2.07x Beta ("test") releases, Nick tells me they now believe the odds of a problem are sufficiently rare that they felt the warning was overly alarmist. So they've removed it.
> 
> 
> If you have not done a firmware install before, you can give yourself some added peace of mind by first trying a re-install of your CURRENT firmware version to show that your Windows PC and serial connection really do work before you try your first install of a NEW firmware version. Do the re-install just like a new install -- i.e., Reload Factory Defaults before-hand, and make sure you have no powered HDMI connections during the install. NOTE: These extra steps are for FIRMWARE installs. They are not needed when doing and ARC setup or Upload.
> 
> 
> Remember that you can backup your Setup menu settings to a PC file using the SettingsBackup utility, and you can backup your Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file using the LiveVideoSettingsEditor utility -- both found in the Utilities folder of the ARC install kit. This is in addition to Saving your settings (both Setup and Video Source Adjust get saved) in User and/or Installer Settings prior to Reloading Factory Defaults, and Loading them back in from there after the firmware install.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> On Windows 7, Nick confirms that ARC V2.3 does not work with it (the mic is not handled properly). There is no ETA on a new version yet. Due to press of other business, they have not yet checked whether the firmware installers or other utilities have any problems in Windows 7. They MIGHT work if you are feeling adventurous enough to try. Otherwise stick with XP for now (or Vista if you are so unfortunate as to have that).
> 
> --Bob


*OH NO*


I just upgraded my ARC PC to Windows 7 Ultimate x64 yesterday.


FYI - Anthem isn't the only one with incompatible software. I have

found much bigger companies than Anthem are in the same BOAT.

Thank You Microsoft.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Has anyone tested 5.1 to 7.1 surround processing in V2.07j yet? Nick has not responded on whether or not he thinks that bug is fixed. Nor on whether the "Known Problem" from V2.07i (Mode Preset not being properly applied for 2.0 input) has been fixed in V2.07j. I'll try testing that latter one myself later today, but I only have a 5.1 speaker system so I can't test the first one.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17439933
> 
> 
> OH NO
> 
> 
> I just upgraded my ARC PC to Windows 7 Ultimate x64 yesterday.
> 
> 
> FYI - Anthem isn't the only one with incompatible software. I have
> 
> found much bigger companies than Anthem are in the same BOAT.
> 
> Thank You Microsoft.



Nick did say if there are problems, they are most likely to be due to the 64 bit stuff in Windows 7. The ARC mic thing is presumably due to Microsoft having made unexpected changes in the mic audio capture framework that ARC uses in XP and Vista.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17439951
> 
> 
> Nick did say if there are problems, they are most likely to be due to the 64 bit stuff in Windows 7. The ARC mic thing is presumably due to Microsoft having made unexpected changes in the mic audio capture framework that ARC uses in XP and Vista.
> 
> --Bob



I did not try ARC on Vista x64 - but I did have Vista x64 problems

with other vendors. Once those Vista x64 problems were fixed

they seem to be OK after Windows 7 x64 upgrade.


Ask Nick if Arc works with Vista x64?


----------



## metallicafreak

Hi All

2Q's:

what is the current firmware version for the D2 (not v)?

Can someone PM me the address and PW for the anthem site? My HD with the address and PM died a couple weeks ago.


FREAK!


----------



## xp800




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17439989
> 
> 
> I did not try ARC on Vista x64 - but I did have Vista x64 problems
> 
> with other vendors. Once those Vista x64 problems were fixed
> 
> they seem to be OK after Windows 7 x64 upgrade.
> 
> 
> Ask Nick if Arc works with Vista x64?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17439951
> 
> 
> Nick did say if there are problems, they are most likely to be due to the 64 bit stuff in Windows 7. The ARC mic thing is presumably due to Microsoft having made unexpected changes in the mic audio capture framework that ARC uses in XP and Vista.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17439933
> 
> *OH NO*
> 
> 
> I just upgraded my ARC PC to Windows 7 Ultimate x64 yesterday.
> 
> 
> FYI - Anthem isn't the only one with incompatible software. I have
> 
> found much bigger companies than Anthem are in the same BOAT.
> 
> Thank You Microsoft.



There is the option in Win7 Professional and Ultimate to run XP as a virtual machine. It called of all things..."Windows XP Mode". This was MS's answer to legacy business apps especially, since they don't evolve/adapt as mainstream software usually does to new OS. I wonder if this helps get around enough of the new incompatibilities to let things work.

http://www.microsoft.com/windows/win...s-xp-mode.aspx


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xp800* /forum/post/17440214
> 
> 
> There is the option in Win7 Business and Ultimate to run XP as a virtual machine. It called of all things..."Windows XP Mode". This was MS's answer to legacy business apps especially, since they don't evolve/adapt as mainstream software. I wonder if this helps get around enough of the new incompatibilities to let things work.
> 
> http://www.microsoft.com/windows/win...s-xp-mode.aspx



Yes - I accidently saw that yesterday and then today - I have

been looking for it. Thanks for the link - maybe I can find it again.


----------



## jayray

Here we go again







Firmware 2.07j not only has not fixed the TrueHD and PCM problem with 5.1 to 7.1 but now DTS-MA 5.1 also doesn't work with PLIIx. Will email Nick.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17440315
> 
> 
> Here we go again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Firmware 2.07j not only has not fixed the TrueHD and PCM problem with 5.1 to 7.1 but now DTS-MA 5.1 also doesn't work with PLIIx. Will email Nick.
> 
> John



I'm beginning to wonder if this might be a variant of the Mode Presets problem with 2.0 input. When that problem arises, the info displays say that PLIIx-Movie is active for the 2.0 input, but only L/R/Sub are getting audio.


JAYRAY, try this workaround: Bring up one of the tracks that fails -- with PLIIx in effect. Now use the Mode button and the arrow keys to switch to any other audio mode and then back to PLIIx. Does that fix it?


Also make sure that THX is OFF (press THX twice to make sure both the main THX stuff and just the re-equalization stuff are BOTH OFF). It is barely possible that THX is getting in the way here.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

ARC works perfectly fine with my Vista 64 and a PCMCIA to serial card...


Im waiting for compatibility first before upgrading to Windows 7


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *metallicafreak* /forum/post/17440092
> 
> 
> Hi All
> 
> 2Q's:
> 
> what is the current firmware version for the D2 (not v)?
> 
> Can someone PM me the address and PW for the anthem site? My HD with the address and PM died a couple weeks ago.
> 
> 
> FREAK!



Get in touch with Anthem Tech Support.


The "official" version is V1.33 available from the public download page.


There is a "test" version, V1.47f, that's on the password protected download page, but it is not yet compatible with all production runs of the D2. That's why you need to check with tech support. And of course they can also give you the access info. If you have a red video board (the top board just under the top vents) or if you can see that your power supply does NOT have the big donut shaped transformer, then you are OK for V1.47f. If you have a gray or green video board AND you have the donut shaped transformer then your D2 MIGHT be OK for V1.47f but there's no easy way for you to figure that out on your own.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17439935
> 
> 
> Has anyone tested 5.1 to 7.1 surround processing in V2.07j yet? Nick has not responded on whether or not he thinks that bug is fixed. Nor on whether the "Known Problem" from V2.07i (Mode Preset not being properly applied for 2.0 input) has been fixed in V2.07j. I'll try testing that latter one myself later today, but I only have a 5.1 speaker system so I can't test the first one.
> 
> --Bob



Greeetings,


Bob, I am installing 2.07j now and will report back..



Regards,


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17440463
> 
> 
> ARC works perfectly fine with my Vista 64 and a PCMCIA to serial card...
> 
> 
> Im waiting for compatibility first before upgrading to Windows 7



Don't HOLD me to this promise - but maybe Sunday

afternoon when I get home - I'll give ARC a try on

Windows 7 Ultimate x64. I have also downloaded

the Virtual PC Windows XP emulation software just

in case I need that.


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I tried your suggestions but nothing produced rear channel sound on PLIIx or DTS Neo 6.

John


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17440815
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I tried your suggestions but nothing produced rear channel sound on PLIIx or DTS Neo 6.
> 
> John



Greetings,


I got the same results and am re-installing 2.07. I am not going to install another beta until I see the correction for this outlined in the documentation.



Regards,


----------



## ibg5

I use D2 three years.

Besides, I have TV Pioneer PDP-LX6090H (European version PRO-151FD) and DVD Pioneer DV-868Avi (European version DV-47AVi).

Basically, I look 576i50 (SAT) and 480i60 (DVD).

DV-868Avi It is adjusted: an exit 480i60, video memory - Direct.

PDP-LX6090H It is adjusted: Purecinema = Advanced, Drive Mode = 2.

D2 It is adjusted: an exit 1080p24; for SAT - Frame Lock = Auto, for DVD - Frame Lock = Off.

Recently has put DVD DVE NTSC, track 17-3 (restaurant). In its most beginning the certain small cut vegetables on the second plate on the near plan (and edges of the plate) at chamber moving look with small jerks. I have connected the DV-868Avi directly to PDP-LX6090H, have made corresponding options in DV-868Avi and HAVE not found out these small jerks! The image absolutely smooth!

Somebody can check up it? And to give explanations why it occurs?

Guy, specify, what options Resolution and Frame Lock need to be used for following modes:

576i50 Film Mode = On;

576i50 Film Mode = Off;

480i60 Film Mode = On;

480i60 Film Mode = Off;

And who has TV Pioneer, still Purecinema and Drive Mode!

Please!

Thanks!


----------



## jayray

Got this reply from Nick re the rear channel problem ,5.1 to7.1.

*That's one of the bugs that we can do nothing about until the decoder supplier fixes it. These are the most pressing ones:


- make sound come from rears when 5.1+PLIIx


- make preset mode apply to stereo input without toggling mode


- make other channels work when L/R have no data


It can happen by next week but no one knows for sure. Everyone's on it.*


John


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17440599
> 
> 
> Don't HOLD me to this promise - but maybe Sunday
> 
> afternoon when I get home - I'll give ARC a try on
> 
> Windows 7 Ultimate x64. I have also downloaded
> 
> the Virtual PC Windows XP emulation software just
> 
> in case I need that.



Anything that can run on Vista will run on Win7.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17441314
> 
> 
> Got this reply from Nick re the rear channel problem ,5.1 to7.1.
> 
> *That's one of the bugs that we can do nothing about until the decoder supplier fixes it. These are the most pressing ones:
> 
> 
> - make sound come from rears when 5.1+PLIIx
> 
> 
> - make preset mode apply to stereo input without toggling mode
> 
> 
> - make other channels work when L/R have no data
> 
> 
> It can happen by next week but no one knows for sure. Everyone's on it.*
> 
> 
> John



Greetings,


I have to admit that I find this to be annoying. During one of the iterations something in the DSP code was broken (I assume by the decoder manufacturer/supplier based on what Nick is saying). To me a glitch like this is a fairly significant one since you can't release another official FW upgrade without it. If they broke it and sent it in broken then they should be held strictly accountable for an immediate fix so that this is one problem that can be crossed off of the glitch list.


Unacceptable..



Regards,


----------



## greyflag

Hi Bob (or anyone),


I recently upgraded my AVM50. This is my first attempt at running ARC (2.3). It appears that it is doing its job. I previously had set the crossover to 80hz in the Bass Management menu. It appears that ARC likes it higher. Sub (Hsu VTF-2) crossover was set to its highest setting. I'm new to this and did not change any targets. Any comments?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17441314
> 
> 
> Got this reply from Nick re the rear channel problem ,5.1 to7.1.
> 
> *That's one of the bugs that we can do nothing about until the decoder supplier fixes it. These are the most pressing ones:
> 
> 
> - make sound come from rears when 5.1+PLIIx
> 
> 
> - make preset mode apply to stereo input without toggling mode
> 
> 
> - make other channels work when L/R have no data
> 
> 
> It can happen by next week but no one knows for sure. Everyone's on it.*
> 
> 
> John



I assume the fix by the supplier is a software fix and not a hardware fix?


Can someone clarify something for me? The processing of the new audio codecs have been around for a couple of years now. What is so unique about the Anthem that is causing this to be problematic? Are other manufacturers having similar related issues? ie Denon, Integra, Marantz, etc?


----------



## Texas steve

any reason why the middle channel wont generate a sound on manual tone on the D2v? The center does work as I get movies etc.







Dosent do it on auto either!


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17442290
> 
> 
> any reason why the middle channel wont generate a sound on manual tone on the D2v? The center does work as I get movies etc.



What version firmware are you running? I am running 2.07f and have cc sound tones being produced. Have you tried a power cycle and then retried?


I did have a loss of my sub tones when I had my AVM50 and a reloading of my firmware solved it with mine so you may need to reload your firmware. As with yours, my subs worked, but it just did not generate the tones.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17441702
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I have to admit that I find this to be annoying. During one of the iterations something in the DSP code was broken (I assume by the decoder manufacturer/supplier based on what Nick is saying). To me a glitch like this is a fairly significant one since you can't release another official FW upgrade without it. If they broke it and sent it in broken then they should be held strictly accountable for an immediate fix so that this is one problem that can be crossed off of the glitch list.
> 
> 
> Unacceptable..
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



I have been leary of upgrading my firmware and am still running 2.04


I really don't have any issues that I can notice. Afraid of complications.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17442426
> 
> 
> I have been leary of upgrading my firmware and am still running 2.04
> 
> 
> I really don't have any issues that I can notice. Afraid of complications.



I'm sticking with 2.07f as it is the lesser of all evils for me. Mine came with 2.07 and I couldn't run it at all as it was just too unstable. Are you running a 5.1 or a 7.1 setup?


----------



## Texas steve

Yes Im using F also. I tried off and switch on the back but same thing. I thought I recall it working at one time. Problem is I had a channel go in my amp and I was using the tones to help diagnose. Oh well no problem as long it works in the real world, I use ARC anaway. Ill wait till a new release of software (that has Dolby Volume) and re-load.

Im running a 5.1 system, using a BAT 6200 amp and SALK speakers

thanks for the help











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17442346
> 
> 
> What version firmware are you running? I am running 2.07f and have cc sound tones being produced. Have you tried a power cycle and then retried?
> 
> 
> I did have a loss of my sub tones when I had my AVM50 and a reloading of my firmware solved it with mine so you may need to reload your firmware. As with yours, my subs worked, but it just did not generate the tones.


----------



## dmusoke

How long does it take to upload the FW to the Anthems? I've been at it for 10 minutes and counting...Not sure if this is normal or not.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17441314
> 
> 
> Got this reply from Nick re the rear channel problem ,5.1 to7.1.
> 
> *That's one of the bugs that we can do nothing about until the decoder supplier fixes it. These are the most pressing ones:
> 
> 
> - make sound come from rears when 5.1+PLIIx
> 
> 
> - make preset mode apply to stereo input without toggling mode
> 
> 
> - make other channels work when L/R have no data
> 
> 
> It can happen by next week but no one knows for sure. Everyone's on it.*
> 
> 
> John



I like JAYRAY! He cracks a mean whip!










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17442677
> 
> 
> How long does it take to upload the FW to the Anthems? I've been at it for 10 minutes and counting...Not sure if this is normal or not.



It takes about 15 minutes -- much of that time is spent verifying the different firmware pieces got uploaded correctly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17442290
> 
> 
> any reason why the middle channel wont generate a sound on manual tone on the D2v? The center does work as I get movies etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dosent do it on auto either!



That's a V2.07 bug that's been fixed in the "test" releases as I recall.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

20+ minutes



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17442677
> 
> 
> How long does it take to upload the FW to the Anthems? I've been at it for 10 minutes and counting...Not sure if this is normal or not.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17442500
> 
> 
> Yes Im using F also. I tried off and switch on the back but same thing. I thought I recall it working at one time. Problem is I had a channel go in my amp and I was using the tones to help diagnose. Oh well no problem as long it works in the real world, I use ARC anaway. Ill wait till a new release of software (that has Dolby Volume) and re-load.
> 
> Im running a 5.1 system, using a BAT 6200 amp and SALK speakers
> 
> thanks for the help



You might want to try V2.07j (the most recent "test" update). It looks to be a pretty good match for folks with 5.1 speaker systems.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

I using F version, but I think it used to work. so i turned it off, killed the switch in the back and tried again but same thing. No problem as I used ARC anaway and it works with movies/sound.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17442738
> 
> 
> That's a V2.07 bug that's been fixed in the "test" releases as I recall.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17442497
> 
> 
> I'm sticking with 2.07g as it is the lesser of all evils for me. Mine came with 2.07 and I couldn't run it at all as it was just too unstable. Are you running a 5.1 or a 7.1 setup?



V2.07j fixes several important audio bugs that are in V2.07g. If you have a 5.1 speaker system so far I've found no real down-side to going to V2.07j.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Will do, I havent checked the upload file . Do you are the glitches in G still there?











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17442748
> 
> 
> You might want to try V2.07j (the most recent "test" update). It looks to be a pretty good match for folks with 5.1 speaker systems.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17442426
> 
> 
> I have been leary of upgrading my firmware and am still running 2.04
> 
> 
> I really don't have any issues that I can notice. Afraid of complications.



If you are happy with V2.04 I'd hold off on an update for now. V2.07 is the "official" release but it has a number of exciting bugs that are being squashed in the "test" releases. The latest "test" release is V2.07j, but I won't recommend anyone go to it unless you are trying to fix some problem you are having (or want to help with the testing). Within another week or so, I think they'll have a new "official" release -- probably V2.08 -- that should be pretty clean and well worth your time to upgrade, and then the Dolby Volume beta "test" versions will likely start coming out.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17442766
> 
> 
> Will do, I havent checked the upload file . Do you have a list of what was addressed in J AND are the glitches in G still there?



See the release notes for J and the discussion of bugs currently being worked on just a couple days ago.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17441702
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I have to admit that I find this to be annoying. During one of the iterations something in the DSP code was broken (I assume by the decoder manufacturer/supplier based on what Nick is saying). To me a glitch like this is a fairly significant one since you can't release another official FW upgrade without it. If they broke it and sent it in broken then they should be held strictly accountable for an immediate fix so that this is one problem that can be crossed off of the glitch list.
> 
> 
> Unacceptable..
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



I agree, and I'd be willing to wager that just such discussions are happening. If I had to guess, DTS foisted something new on the decoder makers that bolloxed up the works across the board. But I blame everything on DTS....

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17441391
> 
> 
> Anything that can run on Vista will run on Win7.



ARC doesn't.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Just downloaded going to do it tomorrow, right now Im ready for a Jack Daniels Manhattan!!! not good to mess with electronics and alcohol at the same time.
























By the way Bob, I did find on some movies the center to be a litter "bright" with the ARC settings we came up with so I just moved it down about .5 db in treble and that fixed it.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17442765
> 
> 
> V2.07j fixes several important audio bugs that are in V2.07g. If you have a 5.1 speaker system so far I've found no real down-side to going to V2.07j.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ibg5* /forum/post/17441133
> 
> 
> I use D2 three years.
> 
> Besides, I have TV Pioneer PDP-LX6090H (European version PRO-151FD) and DVD Pioneer DV-868Avi (European version DV-47AVi).
> 
> Basically, I look 576i50 (SAT) and 480i60 (DVD).
> 
> DV-868Avi It is adjusted: an exit 480i60, video memory - Direct.
> 
> PDP-LX6090H It is adjusted: Purecinema = Advanced, Drive Mode = 2.
> 
> D2 It is adjusted: an exit 1080p24; for SAT - Frame Lock = Auto, for DVD - Frame Lock = Off.
> 
> Recently has put DVD DVE NTSC, track 17-3 (restaurant). In its most beginning the certain small cut vegetables on the second plate on the near plan (and edges of the plate) at chamber moving look with small jerks. I have connected the DV-868Avi directly to PDP-LX6090H, have made corresponding options in DV-868Avi and HAVE not found out these small jerks! The image absolutely smooth!
> 
> Somebody can check up it? And to give explanations why it occurs?
> 
> Guy, specify, what options Resolution and Frame Lock need to be used for following modes:
> 
> 576i50 Film Mode = On;
> 
> 576i50 Film Mode = Off;
> 
> 480i60 Film Mode = On;
> 
> 480i60 Film Mode = Off;
> 
> And who has TV Pioneer, still Purecinema and Drive Mode!
> 
> Please!
> 
> Thanks!



Do not try to convert standard DVDs to 1080p/24 on your D2. It won't work and you will get stuttering. Also, do not try to convert movies from a TV source (cable or satellite for example) to 1080p/24 on your D2 -- again you will get stuttering.


Use 1080p/24 output from the D2 only when playing 1080p/24 input from a Blu-Ray player. Use 1080p/60 or 1080p/50 output from the D2 otherwise.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17442804
> 
> 
> By the way Bob, I did find on some movies the center to be a litter "bright" with the ARC settings we came up with so I just moved it down about .5 db in treble and that fixed it.



That could be due to not having the ARC mic at proper seated-ear-height while measuring, or because the upper frequency end of the solution is a bit off due to speaker directionality.


Fix that latter by backing off Max EQ Frequency a bit. If it sounds better it IS better even if the charts don't look quite as well corrected in the treble. The treble is difficult to Measure and if the ARC mic is getting confused by speaker directionality (for instance) the result calculated for up there will also be off.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

yep I found the same thing


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greyflag* /forum/post/17442170
> 
> 
> Hi Bob (or anyone),
> 
> 
> I recently upgraded my AVM50. This is my first attempt at running ARC (2.3). It appears that it is doing its job. I previously had set the crossover to 80hz in the Bass Management menu. It appears that ARC likes it higher. Sub (Hsu VTF-2) crossover was set to its highest setting. I'm new to this and did not change any targets. Any comments?



You've got a pretty severe room cancellation going on at 50Hz. Look at the swing between 50Hz and 70Hz in Sub, Center, and RF for example. Your Surrounds aren't coupling to the cancellation null although they are still showing the resonance peak at 70Hz.


For Sub and Center, try moving them further away from the nearest wall/corner. Even inches matter at these frequencies. ARC has got this in hand for the other speakers, but it can't fully correct that notch in the Sub response and it is putting a higher crossover on Center to avoid the problem down there. So both Sub and Center could use some help.


If repositioning doesn't do the trick for them, then you may need to put in some bass traps on the walls/corners behind them to cut down the bass reflections.


Other than that, try raising Max EQ Frequency Target above its default value of 5KHz. That will tell ARC it is OK to apply correction up there as well. Your Measured curves look good enough to me that you might be able to push it all the way up to 20KHz.


The bottom end on your sub is around 28Hz. That's pretty good for home theater, but there are subs out there which will go up to an octave lower.


The basic volume level of this ARC solution is around 70dB. Try going through the exercise (discussed many times here) of setting Test Level in the Setup menu and the volume knob in your sub so that ARC shifts that up to around 75dB. A little higher volume will make it easier for ARC to Measure properly.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17442765
> 
> 
> V2.07j fixes several important audio bugs that are in V2.07g. If you have a 5.1 speaker system so far I've found no real down-side to going to V2.07j.
> 
> --Bob



I have a 7.1 setup and I think Jayray mentioned that the rear channel bug is not fixed yet. I haven't noticed anything else yet with 2.07f, which is why I'm sticking with it for now.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17442250
> 
> 
> I assume the fix by the supplier is a software fix and not a hardware fix?
> 
> 
> Can someone clarify something for me? The processing of the new audio codecs have been around for a couple of years now. What is so unique about the Anthem that is causing this to be problematic? Are other manufacturers having similar related issues? ie Denon, Integra, Marantz, etc?



It is indeed a software issue, so I have confidence they will fix this.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17442725
> 
> 
> I like JAYRAY! He cracks a mean whip!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



We here at Jayray's mean to please










John


----------



## greyflag




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17442892
> 
> 
> You've got a pretty severe room cancellation going on at 50Hz. Look at the swing between 50Hz and 70Hz in Sub, Center, and RF for example. Your Surrounds aren't coupling to the cancellation null although they are still showing the resonance peak at 70Hz.
> 
> 
> For Sub and Center, try moving them further away from the nearest wall/corner. Even inches matter at these frequencies. ARC has got this in hand for the other speakers, but it can't fully correct that notch in the Sub response and it is putting a higher crossover on Center to avoid the problem down there. So both Sub and Center could use some help.
> 
> 
> If repositioning doesn't do the trick for them, then you may need to put in some bass traps on the walls/corners behind them to cut down the bass reflections.
> 
> 
> Other than that, try raising Max EQ Frequency Target above its default value of 5KHz. That will tell ARC it is OK to apply correction up there as well. Your Measured curves look good enough to me that you might be able to push it all the way up to 20KHz.
> 
> 
> The bottom end on your sub is around 28Hz. That's pretty good for home theater, but there are subs out there which will go up to an octave lower.
> 
> 
> The basic volume level of this ARC solution is around 70dB. Try going through the exercise (discussed many times here) of setting Test Level in the Setup menu and the volume knob in your sub so that ARC shifts that up to around 75dB. A little higher volume will make it easier for ARC to Measure properly.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


I had set the volume at 75db on the Anthem and sub with my Radio Shack meter as per your previous posts. The center speaker is on a cabinet close to ear height. The TV is on a mount on the rear of the cabinet. I have moved the cabinet forward a few inches and moved the sub a few inches away from the side wall. I'll try again in a day or two.


Also during measurements, I got an excessive background noise error on most sweeps and had to try them several times. I was the only one in the house and turned off both the furnace and refrigerator. A generator motor was running outside inside a house under construction. I'll try the next measurements at night. Most music is listened to with an adjacent two channel system with better (PSB Synchrony) speakers. I hope to upgrade the 5.1 system to these as well.


I'll post the next results for your perusal.


Thanks,


Glenn


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greyflag* /forum/post/17443353
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I had set the volume at 75db on the Anthem and sub with my Radio Shack meter as per your previous posts. The center speaker is on a cabinet close to ear height. The TV is on a mount on the rear of the cabinet. I have moved the cabinet forward a few inches and moved the sub a few inches away from the side wall. I'll try again in a day or two.
> 
> 
> Also during measurements, I got an excessive background noise error on most sweeps and had to try them several times. I was the only one in the house and turned off both the furnace and refrigerator. A generator motor was running outside inside a house under construction. I'll try the next measurements at night. Most music is listened to with an adjacent two channel system with better (PSB Synchrony) speakers. I hope to upgrade the 5.1 system to these as well.
> 
> 
> I'll post the next results for your perusal.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Glenn



Despite your results with the SPL meter I suggest you try raising Test Level another 5dB prior to your next Measurement. First, zero out all the Level Calibration lines, then just raise Test Level 5dB over whatever you last used. Measure the resulting Test Level tone with your SPL meter and then scroll down to a subwoofer line -- leaving it at 0dB -- and adjust the volume knob in the sub to achieve that same SPL value, whatever it turned out to be.


This will raise the volume of ARC's test sweep tones as well, and may smooth out your Measurement process.


------------------------------------


By the way, if you want to play with Max EQ Frequency, you can raise it, re-Calculate and re-Upload without having to do a new Measurement. Just open your current ARC results file in ARC's "Advanced" mode.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm still working on my 36-bit YCbCr image quality problem from the PS3 and the Oppo.


I've discovered that deliberately miss-setting the input Color/Tint controls in the D2v helps quite a bit. What I need to do is lower Color a bit and bias Tint towards Green a bit.


Now these adjusted settings are not "right". They are merely helping mask whatever bug is causing my problem. But with any luck this will help us isolate the bug.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17442730
> 
> 
> It takes about 15 minutes -- much of that time is spent verifying the different firmware pieces got uploaded correctly.
> 
> --Bob



OK Now for the past 3 hours or so, i have attempted to upload the new 2.0j FW with no success. Now i get no video output from my 50v, though audio is heard from the cable TV input.


I'm getting these errors:

*"Video Processor Reset Failed!*" Hitting cancel seemed to continue the upload process(EEPROM verification, CPLD verification etc) until i reached this last stage:


"*Uploading video processor UC FLASH programmer...Please Wait*"


It then froze at this point. What should I do? I've used the Keyspan USB adapter on my Windows Vista 32 for ARC tests with no problems. I even performed a hard boot of my laptop and 50v and used a different USB port. Didn't help at all.


Please help!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Are you sure you have no powered HDMI Source or Display connections? I suggest you remove wall power from everything except the Anthem and the Windows computer.


Call Anthem in the morning and they will walk you through the process of using the Flash Eraser utility to reset the programmable parts in your Anthem. Hopefully that will get you back to the state where you can do the install.


While waiting, double check that you have the latest Vista driver for your Keyspan adapter.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17443804
> 
> 
> Are you sure you have no powered HDMI Source or Display connections? I suggest you remove wall power from everything except the Anthem and the Windows computer.
> 
> 
> Call Anthem in the morning and they will walk you through the process of using the Flash Eraser utility to reset the programmable parts in your Anthem. Hopefully that will get you back to the state where you can do the install.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I had disconnected all HDMI connections into the 50v. The SPDIF cable from the Comcast box was active. Could this be a problem?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17443817
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I had disconnected all HDMI connections into the 50v. The SPDIF cable from the Comcast box was active. Could this be a problem?



No that's not it.


This isn't the first firmware install you've done using this Windows computer and Keyspan adapter is it?

--Bob


----------



## Paladin80N

Does anyone know if there is a ship date for Dolby Volume on the D2v? Will it have adjustments similar to the Arcam 888?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paladin80N* /forum/post/17444710
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if there is a ship date for Dolby Volume on the D2v? Will it have adjustments similar to the Arcam 888?



Dolby Volume is expected to be in Beta release very soon now. I'm not sure how long they'll keep it in Beta before it starts shipping with new product and is available for general download.


Here's a recent post discussing what we know about it at this point:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2&post17225312 


--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Did you get it to work yet?











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17443817
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I had disconnected all HDMI connections into the 50v. The SPDIF cable from the Comcast box was active. Could this be a problem?


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17443744
> 
> 
> OK Now for the past 3 hours or so, i have attempted to upload the new 2.0j FW with no success. Now i get no video output from my 50v, though audio is heard from the cable TV input.
> 
> 
> I'm getting these errors:
> 
> *"Video Processor Reset Failed!*" Hitting cancel seemed to continue the upload process(EEPROM verification, CPLD verification etc) until i reached this last stage:
> 
> 
> "*Uploading video processor UC FLASH programmer...Please Wait*"
> 
> 
> It then froze at this point. What should I do? I've used the Keyspan USB adapter on my Windows Vista 32 for ARC tests with no problems. I even performed a hard boot of my laptop and 50v and used a different USB port. Didn't help at all.
> 
> 
> Please help!!!



May I suggest that you run the Flash Erase program; I suggest that you run it 5 times to clear out all data in the flash memory. Understand, that after the Flash Erase program is run, the unit is totally dumb. It won't even power up until you reload firmware. Then load the latest "General" release of the firmware. After you make sure that the "General" firmware works, try to upload the Beta firmware. You should save all your settings with the "Setting Editor" and the "Live Video Settings" programs BEFORE attempting the Flash Erase and reload them after your are satisified that everything works. Also confirm that your serial adapter is set to TWO stop bits using the device manager in Windows to set the parameter.


----------



## Texas steve

I have the D2v, but isint "J" only for the D2v?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17445770
> 
> 
> May I suggest that you run the Flash Erase program; I suggest that you run it 5 times to clear out all data in the flash memory. Understand, that after the Flash Erase program is run, the unit is totally dumb. It won't even power up until you reload firmware. Then load the latest "General" release of the firmware. After you make sure that the "General" firmware works, try to upload the Beta firmware. You should save all your settings with the "Setting Editor" and the "Live Video Settings" programs BEFORE attempting the Flash Erase and reload them after your are satisified that everything works. Also confirm that your serial adapter is set to TWO stop bits using the device manager in Windows to set the parameter.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17446051
> 
> 
> I have the D2v, but isint "J" only for the D2v?



I'm not sure I understand your question. 2.07j is the latest "test" firmware for the D2v and the AVM50v (separate files). The latest general. available from the Anthem Website, not the password protected site, is 2.07 (no letter after).


----------



## Texas steve

Was not a question, I was just thinking that "J" was only for the D2v and that's why he was having issues. I have J for my D2v just have not loaded it yet (Im still on F)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17446226
> 
> 
> I'm not sure I understand your question. 2.07j is the latest "test" firmware for the D2v and the AVM50v (separate files). The latest general. available from the Anthem Website, not the password protected site, is 2.07 (no letter after).


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17444059
> 
> 
> No that's not it.
> 
> 
> This isn't the first firmware install you've done using this Windows computer and Keyspan adapter is it?
> 
> --Bob



Yes it is...did I miss anything?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17445415
> 
> 
> Did you get it to work yet?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17445770
> 
> 
> May I suggest that you run the Flash Erase program; I suggest that you run it 5 times to clear out all data in the flash memory. Understand, that after the Flash Erase program is run, the unit is totally dumb. It won't even power up until you reload firmware. Then load the latest "General" release of the firmware. After you make sure that the "General" firmware works, try to upload the Beta firmware. You should save all your settings with the "Setting Editor" and the "Live Video Settings" programs BEFORE attempting the Flash Erase and reload them after your are satisified that everything works. Also confirm that your serial adapter is set to TWO stop bits using the device manager in Windows to set the parameter.



Thanks netroamer and TS:


I decided to power off the whole unit last night hoping that tpday's results would be different. Unfortunately that's not the case and I'm waiting for anthem to return my calls. I wanted to use the flash erase program but its notes say that its must NOT be used without an Anthem technician present to guide you through it, so I chickened out of it. Netroamer, are you saying one can do this themselves w/o anthems help?


This is my first ever FW install on my 50v. Wanted to try this version as it seemed stable with no scary warning message. My serial port is configured as

115Kb/sec and 8,N,2 as the data format(8 databits, no parity, 2 stop bits). As said before, i had used this keyspan configuration for months during my ARC tests so i know that part of the HW works.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17447066
> 
> 
> Yes it is...did I miss anything?



Firmware installs are more demanding of the serial connection than ARC.


You may need to try another computer. At this point you should work the problem with Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

D2v "test" firmware V2.07j fixes another audio problem. HDMI Bitstream input of the "Dragon Encounter" bonus feature on "Sleeping Beauty" Blu-Ray is now properly recognized as 7.1 DTS-HD HR 96KHz -- a rare 7.1 HR track. Up through V2.07f it was only seen as 5.1. The bug was actually fixed in V2.07g, but the other DTS-HD MA problems in G made that fix moot. So J brings back that fix, but without the down-side.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17447144
> 
> 
> Thanks netroamer and TS:
> 
> 
> I decided to power off the whole unit last night hoping that tpday's results would be different. Unfortunately that's not the case and I'm waiting for anthem to return my calls. I wanted to use the flash erase program but its notes say that its must NOT be used without an Anthem technician present to guide you through it, so I chickened out of it. Netroamer, are you saying one can do this themselves w/o anthems help?
> 
> 
> This is my first ever FW install on my 50v. Wanted to try this version as it seemed stable with no scary warning message. My serial port is configured as
> 
> 115Kb/sec and 8,N,2 as the data format(8 databits, no parity, 2 stop bits). As said before, i had used this keyspan configuration for months during my ARC tests so i know that part of the HW works.



I have used the Flash Erase program on several occasions without any Anthem guidance as it is very straight forward. Having said that, your individual comfort level must be your guide. You must save your settings to your computer, before running the Flash Erase, using the the two settings save programs I noted in my post.

Good Luck...whatever you decide.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17442800
> 
> 
> ARC doesn't.
> 
> --Bob



actually you can use windows xp emulation in windows 7 to get ARC to work.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17447761
> 
> 
> actually you can use windows xp emulation in windows 7 to get ARC to work.



That was my guess also - I just fired up Windows XP under W7

and I was going to try it on Sunday - You Beat me


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17447690
> 
> 
> I have used the Flash Erase program on several occasions without any Anthem guidance as it is very straight forward. Having said that, your individual comfort level must be your guide. You must save your settings to your computer, before running the Flash Erase, using the the two settings save programs I noted in my post.
> 
> Good Luck...whatever you decide.



Thanks John:


I later on decided to use the Flash Erase per your suggestion (more than 5 times) and was glad it went smoothly. I then uploaded the standard 2.07 version FW and to my disappointment, it froze at the same exact place. I talked to Nick and Piero at Anthem and they were suprosed as well. They have never heard of the "Video Processor Reset Failed" error before and need more time to consult their Soft/Hardware and Test engineers for further details(they leave early on Fridays, by 2PM







). They believe its either the video board or power supply. If its a video board, it can be easily replaced else I'd have to ship the whole processor back to them. In the meantime, I have a processor that passes audio (after much coaxing) but no video. Have to bypassed it manually to watch TV or play BR disks.


Thanks for the suggestions. They were really good and helpful. At the least, I know Flash Erase doesn't brick processors







.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's unusual for the video processor to fail to accept the reset because if it had a hardware fault like that they wouldn't have been able to program it in the factory before it shipped. But I suppose anything is possible.


I'm sorry that Anthem can't fix your problem today. It does sound like a hardware failure to me.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17447761
> 
> 
> actually you can use windows xp emulation in windows 7 to get ARC to work.



Sure. Or actually, good to know. I take it you've actually tried it?


It just doesn't work if you boot up Windows 7.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17448473
> 
> 
> Thanks John:
> 
> 
> I later on decided to use the Flash Erase per your suggestion (more than 5 times) and was glad it went smoothly. I then uploaded the standard 2.07 version FW and to my disappointment, it froze at the same exact place. I talked to Nick and Piero at Anthem and they were suprosed as well. They have never heard of the "Video Processor Reset Failed" error before and need more time to consult their Soft/Hardware and Test engineers for further details(they leave early on Fridays, by 2PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). They believe its either the video board or power supply. If its a video board, it can be easily replaced else I'd have to ship the whole processor back to them. In the meantime, I have a processor that passes audio (after much coaxing) but no video. Have to bypassed it manually to watch TV or play BR disks.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. They were really good and helpful. At the least, I know Flash Erase doesn't brick processors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



I had the same problem with my first unit. The FW update was freezing at the video board setup. I don't exactly remember the message. Anthem sent a video board to the dealer and the dealer installed it. Then I could load the FW. I don't know if that applies to you but seems like similar problem.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17448689
> 
> 
> I had the same problem with my first unit. The FW update was freezing at the video board setup. I don't exactly remember the message. Anthem sent a video board to the dealer and the dealer installed it. Then I could load the FW. I don't know if that applies to you but seems like similar problem.



Yeah, that sure sounds like mine as well. I hope the resolution is simple as yours was.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17448501
> 
> 
> It's unusual for the video processor to fail to accept the reset because if it had a hardware fault like that they wouldn't have been able to program it in the factory before it shipped. But I suppose anything is possible.
> 
> 
> I'm sorry that Anthem can't fix your problem today. It does sound like a hardware failure to me.
> 
> --Bob



I asked Piero if they perform multiple erase and programming cycles on their modules or even at the board level on the production floor and he said no. Just once, which suprised me since my past experience in my line of work with flash based processors makes me think otherwise. I have never worked with the OKI processor used on the video board though.


Anyhow, just hope this issue is resolved soon enough.


----------



## netroamer

Just a question of curiosity. Have you tried to download a new copy of the firmware? Also, although a VERY long shot, have you tried disconnecting all video inputs (analog and digital) from the unit?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17448473
> 
> 
> Thanks John:
> 
> 
> I later on decided to use the Flash Erase per your suggestion (more than 5 times) and was glad it went smoothly. I then uploaded the standard 2.07 version FW and to my disappointment, it froze at the same exact place. I talked to Nick and Piero at Anthem and they were suprosed as well. They have never heard of the "Video Processor Reset Failed" error before and need more time to consult their Soft/Hardware and Test engineers for further details(they leave early on Fridays, by 2PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). They believe its either the video board or power supply. If its a video board, it can be easily replaced else I'd have to ship the whole processor back to them. In the meantime, I have a processor that passes audio (after much coaxing) but no video. Have to bypassed it manually to watch TV or play BR disks.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. They were really good and helpful. At the least, I know Flash Erase doesn't brick processors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17449007
> 
> 
> Just a question of curiosity. Have you tried to download a new copy of the firmware? Also, although a VERY long shot, have you tried disconnecting all video inputs (analog and digital) from the unit?



Yes, the brand new 2.07 firmware was downloaded afresh from the Anthem website. The only connections I had to the processor were HDMI and Optical. They were all disconnected from the processor at the time of programming.


Well, the HDMI to the TV was connected but the Plasma was turned off during the FW upload. This is the same as a physical disconnetion, right? Now my OCD has started to kick in...


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17449080
> 
> 
> Yes, the brand new 2.07 firmware was downloaded afresh from the Anthem website. The only connections I had to the processor were HDMI and Optical. They were all disconnected from the processor at the time of programming.
> 
> 
> Well, the HDMI to the TV was connected but the Plasma was turned off during the FW upload. This is the same as a physical disconnetion, right? Now my OCD has started to kick in...



If the power cord was pulled, definitely yes. If it was in a standby mode, power off and plugged in, there still may be some data interchange going on.


----------



## m396 #00-011

Anyone out there using their unit with iptv? I have ATT U-verse iptv with a vip 1225 box, I believe its made by motorola. I have a AVM50 running 1.47f. 50% of the time I turn on the unit with the iptv, I get picture and no sound. The audio never syncs. To get the audio, is a 30sec-5min dance of shutting the unit down, the iptv down, restarting, rinse, repeat, etc. 1.47f is way worse than the older 1.33 was. I have been fighting this issue for almost 2 years now. It also happened with the Motorola cable boxes from Mediacom/Charter, etc. I have had the unit in for service 9 months ago, and the whole video board was replaced.


Sadly, I have a denon rcvr that will work just fine when implemented into this system. HDMI cables have been exchanged, etc. This is getting increasinly tiresome as I see the v models have issues and support falling off for the older models. I love my unit when it works correctly. This is my 3rd Anthem AVM series unit. I've pondered going to the v series in hope of leaving these issues behind, but I can't fathom selling this unit to an individual and have them deal with these issues too.


OK, I'm off the box now. Just want my "HDMI" to work correctly...


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17447761
> 
> 
> actually you can use windows xp emulation in windows 7 to get ARC to work.



I tried a few months ago and it did not work for me as it could not find the usb microphone. Windows XP emulation is just VirtualPC running on Win7 with a shortcut on your Win7 start menu.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17449245
> 
> 
> If the power cord was pulled, definitely yes. If it was in a standby mode, power off and plugged in, there still may be some data interchange going on.



OK...power cord was plugged in as well as the HDMI cable though as i said before, TV was turned off from the remote. Will try again to see if it works this time around with everything off.


----------



## Milt99

I know this is a day old now, but ARC will run on Vista but not on Win7 huh?

That surprises me a lot. As a developer, I've been involved in serious testing of our apps from Win98 on up.

Vista was a b!tch, Win7 so far is a comparative dream. So I stand corrected.


dlynch34 is exactly right about XPM.

I'm pretty sure you run XPM and the apps directly from the Win7 start menu which means you would start the OS as per normal.

Your CPU has to support virtual mode and your BIOS has to support enabling it.

This is going to be a bigger deal going forward, imo, as Win7 will be far more popular and rightly so than the Vista POS.

In any event good luck guys!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/17449336
> 
> 
> Anyone out there using their unit with iptv? I have ATT U-verse iptv with a vip 1225 box, I believe its made by motorola. I have a AVM50 running 1.47f. 50% of the time I turn on the unit with the iptv, I get picture and no sound. The audio never syncs. To get the audio, is a 30sec-5min dance of shutting the unit down, the iptv down, restarting, rinse, repeat, etc. 1.47f is way worse than the older 1.33 was. I have been fighting this issue for almost 2 years now. It also happened with the Motorola cable boxes from Mediacom/Charter, etc. I have had the unit in for service 9 months ago, and the whole video board was replaced.
> 
> 
> Sadly, I have a denon rcvr that will work just fine when implemented into this system. HDMI cables have been exchanged, etc. This is getting increasinly tiresome as I see the v models have issues and support falling off for the older models. I love my unit when it works correctly. This is my 3rd Anthem AVM series unit. I've pondered going to the v series in hope of leaving these issues behind, but I can't fathom selling this unit to an individual and have them deal with these issues too.
> 
> 
> OK, I'm off the box now. Just want my "HDMI" to work correctly...



First try the following. Turn everything OFF. Manually power up your display. Wait until it is completely powered up. Then manually power up your Anthem. Wait until it is completely powered up. Then, finally, power up your set top video box.


If that works, the problem is likely that your DISPLAY is not playing nice with the Anthem during power up. Let Anthem tech support know what you've found. This is rather common. Devices begin the HDMI handshake before they are really ready to make it happen.


----------------------------------------


If that doesn't work, next power everything down, then physically disconnect the HDMI connection to your display. Then power up the Anthem and the set top box and see if that works. You'll know it is working if you get audio and if the Anthem front panel display settles down as regards the video input resolution.


If THAT works then the problem is on the display side of your Anthem. It is either the HDMI cable to your display or a problem in the HDMI on either side of that cable.


----------------------------------------


If even that doesn't work, then the problem is on the input side of your Anthem.


Next try a different HDMI input jack on the Anthem. Sockets 1/2 and sockets 3/4 of your original AVM 50 use separate input chips. Move the input cable from your set top box to a socket that uses the alternate chip.


(While you are at it, get a flashlight and carefully check each HDMI socket and each HDMI plug for any signs of pin damage.)


If that fixes things then you likely have a hardware problem on your video board regarding the socket that didn't work.


-------------------------------------------


If even that doesn't work, then the problem is either the input HDMI cable or the output from your set top box.


Leave your display disconnected from the Anthem.


Try using 480p (not 480i) output from your set top box. 480p is the "simplest" resolution for HDMI to handle. If that works, then that suggests you have a cable problem even though you have already changed the cable once before.


If that doesn't work, then the last thing you can do is try swapping out your set top box for a new unit.


Please note that the fact the HDMI works with another receiver does NOT mean there isn't an HDMI problem. HDMI is not robust. The copy protection stuff in particular is designed to fail by default. So even something marginal might fail when using different hardware.


------------------------------------------


The workaround of course is to stop using HDMI from that box altogether. For cable and satellite TV there is no particular advantage to HDMI. Use Component video and Optical Digital audio to your Anthem instead.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17449630
> 
> 
> OK...power cord was plugged in as well as the HDMI cable though as i said before, TV was turned off from the remote. Will try again to see if it works this time around with everything off.



Quite a few modern HDMI devices actually leave their HDMI sockets powered even though the device is "Off". This is certainly true for any HDMI device that supports the optional HDMI "CEC" device control functions -- e.g., turn on one device from another device.


HDMI plugs/sockets are delicate, so you don't want to be constantly removing and reinserting the plugs.


This is why I recommend disconnecting WALL POWER from everything in your system except for the Anthem and the Windows PC you are using for the firmware install. That insures you will have no powered HDMI connections during the firmware install.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17449663
> 
> 
> 
> This is why I recommend disconnecting WALL POWER from everything in your system except for the Anthem and the Windows PC you are using for the firmware install. That insures you will have no powered HDMI connections during the firmware install.
> 
> --Bob



Still no Dice ...Disconnected all HDMI inputs and outputs to the processor.

Oh well, time to swap in a new board i guess.


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17449649
> 
> 
> Please note that the fact the HDMI works with another receiver does NOT mean there isn't an HDMI problem. HDMI is not robust. The copy protection stuff in particular is designed to fail by default. So even something marginal might fail when using different hardware.



Exactly my point, it is an HDMI problem, that the Denon doesn't have.


------------------------------------------


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17449649
> 
> 
> The workaround of course is to stop using HDMI from that box altogether. For cable and satellite TV there is no particular advantage to HDMI. Use Component video and Optical Digital audio to your Anthem instead.
> 
> --Bob



True, had thought about it and done it for awhile in the past. However, this wasn't an end all either, the unit had issue with Macrovision protection too. To Anthems credit, I believe they have been resolved.


I would like a piece of equipment of this caliber to work correctly after a few years on the market. I've sold other equipment that has these issues ironed out now, and would like the Anthem to resolve them too.


In the mean time, I've looked at your suggestions and will give them a shot. Since it's an intermittent issue, it may take some time to fully unmask the real issue.


I realized that I left out another fact. While watching the dvr, if I fast fwd or rev, I will sometimes loose audio too. It seems the hdmi tries to resync for anything that happens (bringing up the menu, fwd, rev, etc), thus causing more issues. I'm sure this iptv box has faults, but the Anthem doesn't like it at all.


----------



## Texas steve

Not that it matters but as a point of interest. I also disconnect all my trigger switches as well - AND - don't forget to set everything back to factory default BEFORE tryig to upgrade. Also I use a very short 232 cable to my USB vs the long one that comes with the unit.


Just some thoughts












> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17449994
> 
> 
> Still no Dice ...Disconnected all HDMI inputs and outputs to the processor.
> 
> Oh well, time to swap in a new board i guess.


----------



## Kensmith48

I've got a problem with my D2 and the Oppo BDP-83. Whenever I play a sd-dvd some scenes seem like they are skipping frames, it's subtle but noticeable. If I hit the previous button and then play it again it doesn't happen. Also, if I hit the pause and then the play it clears up. I've tried most of the settings that Bob P. recommends. I've also tried 24 and 60 Hz and there's no difference. It also happens occassionally on BD. Could this be a fault of the HDMI cable or is it the D2? Any suggestions? I also posted this in the Oppo forum. I'm at a loss.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17449994
> 
> 
> Still no Dice ...Disconnected all HDMI inputs and outputs to the processor.
> 
> Oh well, time to swap in a new board i guess.



Just on the possibility that an active HDMI connection corrupted the flash memory during the initial transfer, but again, only if you feel comfortable, I would suggest erasing the flash and try again. If it is the only step between you and replacement of the video board or power supply, what could it hurt?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17451602
> 
> 
> I've got a problem with my D2 and the Oppo BDP-83. Whenever I play a sd-dvd some scenes seem like they are skipping frames, it's subtle but noticeable. If I hit the previous button and then play it again it doesn't happen. Also, if I hit the pause and then the play it clears up. I've tried most of the settings that Bob P. recommends. I've also tried 24 and 60 Hz and there's no difference. It also happens occassionally on BD. Could this be a fault of the HDMI cable or is it the D2? Any suggestions? I also posted this in the Oppo forum. I'm at a loss.



I replied over in the Oppo BDP-83 thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17451359
> 
> 
> Not that it matters but as a point of interest. I also disconnect all my trigger switches as well - AND - don't forget to set everything back to factory default BEFORE tryig to upgrade. Also I use a very short 232 cable to my USB vs the long one that comes with the unit.
> 
> 
> Just some thoughts



RS-232 cable length is not going to make the difference. RS-232 is slow and sufficiently robust that even a 50 foot cable will be reliable.


HOWEVER, it IS important to screw down the plug at each end to make sure you have a good ground and shield connection.


I leave my RS-232 cable permanently screwed in to the back of my D2v and neatly coiled up out of the way when not in use.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/17450549
> 
> 
> Exactly my point, it is an HDMI problem, that the Denon doesn't have.



Sure. I'm not trying to excuse the Anthem. I'm simply pointing out that the way HDMI fails can be confusing.


I.e., just because your source and display work OK through the Denon does NOT prove that you don't have either an HDMI cable problem or an HDMI implementation bug in either the source or display.


For example, HDMI is an end to end protocol that is driven by each source device (not the Anthem or the display). If the implementation in the source is faulty the HDMI may fail through the Anthem and not through the Denon simply because the Anthem presents a different set of legal choices to the source than the Denon does, and your set top box is getting confused.


---------------------------------


Another thing that sometimes helps is to set things to simplify the HDMI handshake.


For example, in the set top box, set it to an explicit HDMI output data format (usually YCbCr 4:4:4) rather than an Auto setting.


In the Anthem, do the same thing for your Video Output configuration to the display.


Also, in Setup > Source Setup for your set top box input, make sure you have Auto Dig OFF.


Finally, while playing video from that set top box, bring up Video Source Adjust > Output and make sure Frame Lock = OFF.


---------------------------------


One last thing: Your set top box should be set to output "Bitstream" for HDMI audio, not PCM.


And make sure your set top box is set to output HDMI audio for ALL channels. Some set top boxes have settings which output some channels on their analog audio outputs instead of HDMI. These are typically older cable boxes in markets that still have analog channels on the cable, but you might have such hardware anyway.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Yep I keep mine permanently connected as well. (length was just a thought). I just went from F to J with no problems. Of course I follow the "Master Bob" directions to a tee!!


















> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17452063
> 
> 
> RS-232 cable length is not going to make the difference. RS-232 is slow and sufficiently robust that even a 50 foot cable will be reliable.
> 
> 
> HOWEVER, it IS important to screw down the plug at each end to make sure you have a good ground and shield connection.
> 
> 
> I leave my RS-232 cable permanently screwed in to the back of my D2v and neatly coiled up out of the way when not in use.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17452196
> 
> 
> Yep I keep mine permanently connected as well. (length was just a thought). I just went from F to J with no problems. Of course I follow the "Master Bob" directions to a tee!!



I used to screw mine into the back of my AVM50, but on my D2v, I can't as the D2v does not have female threads like my AVM50 did so I'm just relying on friction fit. (At least my D2v does not have threads for my RS232. Do others have threads?)


----------



## greyflag

Hi Bob,


I did as you suggested and remeasured with an increase of 5db on the meter which seems to have brought the measuring to between 75 and 80db. I also brought the max eq. freq. to 20khz, which if I'm reading the charts correctly, helped. I still had multiple excessive background noise errors (though not as many as last time) during the measurement in a dead quiet house after midnight. I may call Anthem about that.


The 50hz problem is still there. The sub is about 5 ft from the front wall and 1 ft from the left wall. The closest speaker to the sub is the left front whose measurements don't appear to be showing the 50hz issue, if my novice eyes are reading the charts correctly. Why that is is beyond me. The front of the center speaker is just under 3 ft from the front wall. Drivers and tweeters of all five speakers are identical.


The subs' published frequency response is 25-125hz +/- 2db FWIW.


While this may be this may be the best that I can get out of this configuration until the speaker upgrade, your help is sincerely appreciated. I started reading this forum months before purchasing my AVM50 last year. I'm not sure how you have time for your day job...


Glenn


----------



## Texas steve

Cant check now as it all connected, but the 232 screwed in. I reached back and checked to assure they are "Tight" and yes, it must have screws as it turns and it totally tight!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17452505
> 
> 
> I used to screw mine into the back of my AVM50, but on my D2v, I can't as the D2v does not have female threads like my AVM50 did so I'm just relying on friction fit. (At least my D2v does not have threads for my RS232. Do others have threads?)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greyflag* /forum/post/17452638
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I did as you suggested and remeasured with an increase of 5db on the meter which seems to have brought the measuring to between 75 and 80db. I also brought the max eq. freq. to 20khz, which if I'm reading the charts correctly, helped. I still had multiple excessive background noise errors (though not as many as last time) during the measurement in a dead quiet house after midnight. I may call Anthem about that.
> 
> 
> The 50hz problem is still there. The sub is about 5 ft from the front wall and 1 ft from the left wall. The closest speaker to the sub is the left front whose measurements don't appear to be showing the 50hz issue, if my novice eyes are reading the charts correctly. Why that is is beyond me. The front of the center speaker is just under 3 ft from the front wall. Drivers and tweeters of all five speakers are identical.
> 
> 
> The subs' published frequency response is 25-125hz +/- 2db FWIW.



These look better and should sound quite good. Don't forget to raise Max EQ Frequency for Music configuration as well if you intend to use it. No need to re-Measure to do that.


ARC found more Room Gain using this higher test level setting.


If you have buzzes or rattles in your room, that may be what ARC us picking up as ambient noise.


The sub vs LF comparison is probably just luck. The way a speaker couples to the room at these frequencies is quite sensitive to positioning. Even inches matter down there.


Room treatments can help reduce that room mode which will make the positioning less important.


Also, check that there isn't some silly frquency response setting you might have turned on by mistake in your sub like "movie dynamics boost".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17452505
> 
> 
> I used to screw mine into the back of my AVM50, but on my D2v, I can't as the D2v does not have female threads like my AVM50 did so I'm just relying on friction fit. (At least my D2v does not have threads for my RS232. Do others have threads?)



Yes. Are you using the serial cable that came with your D2v?

--Bob


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17452505
> 
> 
> Do others have threads?)



Yes. Like a lot of others I just leave mine permanently connected with the cable coiled up on a hook on the back of my rack.


----------



## dlynch34




tranle said:


> I tried a few months ago and it did not work for me as it could not find the usb microphone. Windows XP emulation is just VirtualPC running on Win7 with a shortcut on your Win7 start menu.
> 
> 
> 
> Well maybe it was an older build of win 7 I was able to get it to recognize the mic under xp emulator..


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17452751
> 
> 
> Yes. Are you using the serial cable that came with you D2v?
> 
> --Bob



I'm using a 25' Serial cable that is permanently attached to an A-B switch near the D2v so I can send either RS-232 code from my control system or firmware/ARC updates to the D2v from my laptop. Never had any glitches in firmware or ARC upgrades. When not in use I have a hook setup to coil up the cable.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17452687
> 
> 
> Cant check now as it all connected, but the 232 screwed in. I reached back and checked to assure they are "Tight" and yes, it must have screws as it turns and it totally tight!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17452751
> 
> 
> Yes. Are you using the serial cable that came with your D2v?
> 
> --Bob



Yes I am.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/17452904
> 
> 
> Yes. Like a lot of others I just leave mine permanently connected with the cable coiled up on a hook on the back of my rack.




See pic below. This is what my RS232 connection is like on my D2v. There are screws in the spots where my AVM50 had female threads to allow me to tighten my 232 cable to the back.

Attachment 156703


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17453212
> 
> 
> See pic below. This is what my RS232 connection is like on my D2v. There are screws in the spots where my AVM50 had female threads to allow me to tighten my 232 cable to the back.
> 
> Attachment 156703



That's very strange. That socket is not supposed to be attached to the back panel with the 2 TORX screws shown in your picture but rather with two hexagonal sockets that screw in where the TORX screws are now and extend out enough to provide the two female threads for attaching your DB9 RS232 plug.


Did anyone service your back panel and maybe put the wrong screws back in?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17453242
> 
> 
> That's very strange. That socket is not supposed to be attached to the back panel with the 2 TORX screws shown in your picture but rather with two hexagonal sockets that screw in where the TORX screws are now and extend out enough to provide the two female threads for attaching your DB9 RS232 plug.
> 
> 
> Did anyone service your back panel and maybe put the wrong screws back in?
> 
> --Bob



He has the SPECIAL Canadian Version - Backwards


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17453242
> 
> 
> That's very strange. That socket is not supposed to be attached to the back panel with the 2 TORX screws shown in your picture but rather with two hexagonal sockets that screw in where the TORX screws are now and extend out enough to provide the two female threads for attaching your DB9 RS232 plug.
> 
> 
> Did anyone service your back panel and maybe put the wrong screws back in?
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


That's the way it came. I noticed that almost immediately when I unpackaged it a slipped it from the plastic bag.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Email the photo to Nick with your unit serial number so he can pass it on to manufacturing Quality Control. Somebody grabbed the wrong two screws.


He can probably put two of the hex sockets in an envelope for you. I suspect they screw into the same sheet metal thread the TORX screws are screwed into now. Remove one TORX screw at a time so the other is still holding the socket in place and replace it with a hex socket.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17453343
> 
> 
> Email the photo to Nick with your unit serial number so he can pass it on to manufacturing Quality Control. Somebody grabbed the wrong two screws.
> 
> 
> He can probably put two of the hex sockets in an envelope for you. I suspect they screw into the same sheet metal thread the TORX screws are screwed into now. Remove one TORX screw at a time so the other is still holding the socket in place and replace it with a hex socket.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob......already done.


----------



## kenamaste

*This may seem a little long and slightly OT, but please bear with me.


I bought a pair of Sonus Faber Cremona Elipsa speakers, and the dealer came over to my house and spent an hour or so positioning them by the Sumiko method (aka MasterSet aka Iron Chef aka Ballad of the Runaway Horse, etc) so theoretically they were in the perfect position for a lifetime of audio delight.


And the next week my cleaning lady moved them to the side of the room so she could wax the floors (also removing all traces of the previous positioning)(she left the Center where it was, for all that was worth)


I moved them back into the approximate place they were before, but I'm sure that I didn't get it better than a few inches of where they were before.


So here's the question - if I install and run the ARC1 package on my Anthem D2 (which I was kind of going to do anyway) will this optimize the setup with the speakers in their current very reasonable but imperfect locations, or do I have to listen to Runaway Horse a thousand more times (argh!) and try to tweak the speaker placement first before I run ARC (assuming I could master the magic of the method in the first place).


Thanks.


Ken*


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kenamaste* /forum/post/17453497
> 
> 
> This may seem a little long and slightly OT, but please bear with me.
> 
> 
> I bought a pair of Sonus Faber Cremona Elipsa speakers, and the dealer came over to my house and spent an hour or so positioning them by the Sumiko method (aka MasterSet aka Iron Chef aka “Ballad of the Runaway Horse”, etc) so theoretically they were in the “perfect” position for a lifetime of audio delight.
> 
> 
> And the next week my cleaning lady moved them to the side of the room so she could wax the floors (also removing all traces of the previous positioning)(she left the Center where it was, for all that was worth)
> 
> 
> I moved them back into the approximate place they were before, but I’m sure that I didn’t get it better than a few inches of where they were before.
> 
> 
> So here’s the question – if I install and run the ARC1 package on my Anthem D2 (which I was kind of going to do anyway) will this optimize the setup with the speakers in their current very reasonable but “imperfect” locations, or do I have to listen to Runaway Horse a thousand more times (argh!) and try to tweak the speaker placement first before I run ARC (assuming I could master the magic of the method in the first place).
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Ken



Odds are ARC will do the trick for you.


The most important speaker to try to get into the previously determined "best" position is your subwoofer. If you have any traces of where it was before, try to fit it back there to start with.


There are three other manual steps you should do as well.


First check your speaker pointing. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height pay particular attention to their vertical pointing. Vertical pointing should be towards your seated ear height at center seating.


For horizontal pointing, the LF/RF speakers should NOT be pointed directly at center seating. My usual Rule of Thumb is to swing them around only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular to the screen towards center seating.


Then re-check the speaker distance settings in Setup > Listener Position. If you got the speakers close they'll already be OK, but it's worth checking again anyway. Get someone to help and run a tape measure in a taught straight line from the front center of each speaker grill to your head position when seated at center seating.


Also double check the Polarity/Phase setting for your subwoofer. See the post links in the Setup section of posts collected in the first post of this thread for guidance.


You can do all of this with your current D2 setup.


Once you've got that in place, then go ahead and do your ARC setup.


ARC will correct for the vast majority of problems in speaker positioning, and the charts will show if you have any remaining issues that might be worth addressing with some repositioning experiments.


---------------------------------------------


If this is going to be a recurring problem, you might want to consider marking your final speaker positions (after you are done with ARC) in a more permanent fashion -- e.g., a couple dots from a dark brown "scratch fixer" pen on a wood floor or the like. Something that will better resist the best efforts of your cleaning lady.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17453242
> 
> 
> That's very strange. That socket is not supposed to be attached to the back panel with the 2 TORX screws shown in your picture but rather with two hexagonal sockets that screw in where the TORX screws are now and extend out enough to provide the two female threads for attaching your DB9 RS232 plug.
> 
> 
> Did anyone service your back panel and maybe put the wrong screws back in?
> 
> --Bob



Just go to a computer shop or maybe radioshack and get yourself some "Standoffs", they are very common for mounting motherboards to the case...


You can easily unscrew the torx screws and thread the standoffs in there and call it a day... should cost you about errr ahhh 5 penny's hehheheh hell, I probably have about 100 of them laying around somewhere...


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17452094
> 
> 
> Sure. I'm not trying to excuse the Anthem. I'm simply pointing out that the way HDMI fails can be confusing.
> 
> 
> I.e., just because your source and display work OK through the Denon does NOT prove that you don't have either an HDMI cable problem or an HDMI implementation bug in either the source or display.
> 
> 
> For example, HDMI is an end to end protocol that is driven by each source device (not the Anthem or the display). If the implementation in the source is faulty the HDMI may fail through the Anthem and not through the Denon simply because the Anthem presents a different set of legal choices to the source than the Denon does, and your set top box is getting confused.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> Another thing that sometimes helps is to set things to simplify the HDMI handshake.
> 
> 
> For example, in the set top box, set it to an explicit HDMI output data format (usually YCbCr 4:4:4) rather than an Auto setting.
> 
> 
> In the Anthem, do the same thing for your Video Output configuration to the display.
> 
> 
> Also, in Setup > Source Setup for your set top box input, make sure you have Auto Dig OFF.
> 
> 
> Finally, while playing video from that set top box, bring up Video Source Adjust > Output and make sure Frame Lock = OFF.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> One last thing: Your set top box should be set to output "Bitstream" for HDMI audio, not PCM.
> 
> 
> And make sure your set top box is set to output HDMI audio for ALL channels. Some set top boxes have settings which output some channels on their analog audio outputs instead of HDMI. These are typically older cable boxes in markets that still have analog channels on the cable, but you might have such hardware anyway.
> 
> --Bob



And, anyone correct me if I am wrong.


The signal sent to the DVR/Set Top Box is 1080i. Should you not set the DVR to output 1080i so the DVR does no processing and let the Anthem do any conversion for the display.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17453806
> 
> 
> Just go to a computer shop or maybe radioshack and get yourself some "Standoffs", they are very common for mounting motherboards to the case...
> 
> 
> You can easily unscrew the torx screws and thread the standoffs in there and call it a day... should cost you about errr ahhh 5 penny's hehheheh hell, I probably have about 100 of them laying around somewhere...



Only thing is if I take out the torx screws, the rs232 may fall inside the D2v. Bob mentioned removing one at a time, but I don't think I can remove only one screw and then attach this "Standoff" you refer to and then unscrew the second screw. Bob mentioned attaching sockets after removing one screw at a time, which may work depending on how the sockets are attached. Then I would probably need some sort of standoff anyway.


I'll wait to see what Nick says before I frig around with it too much and do something I regret.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I upgraded to 2.07j today everything went fine. The only issue I continue to have is I am unable to download my settings to Live Video Settings Editor. It just freezes on retrieving.


On a better note it seems to have solved my video and audio dropouts on my Tivo S3.


In addition I believe the video is improved thru my TV and projector.


I know, I was told in the past that there was no reason for improvements to audio or video when I upgraded from D2 to D2v in Jan. 2009, but it was there, at the time even Bob said there was no reason to upgrade to the D2v.


Anthem's tech support is awesome. Now where is Dolby Volume, I bought this when it first came out back in Jan. 2009 and still wait.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17453928
> 
> 
> Only thing is if I take out the torx screws, the rs232 may fall inside the D2v. Bob mentioned removing one at a time, but I don't think I can remove only one screw and then attach this "Standoff" you refer to and then unscrew the second screw. Bob mentioned attaching sockets after removing one screw at a time, which may work depending on how the sockets are attached. Then I would probably need some sort of standoff anyway.
> 
> 
> I'll wait to see what Nick says before I frig around with it too much and do something I regret.



The socket itself is soldered to a circuit board so it isn't going anywhere. The screws simply secure it to the back panel for bracing -- so that you don't push it in stressing the solder connections when you attach the plug.


The hex sockets have a screw thread on the back side that goes in where the TORX screws are now.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17453343
> 
> 
> Email the photo to Nick with your unit serial number so he can pass it on to manufacturing Quality Control. Somebody grabbed the wrong two screws.
> 
> 
> He can probably put two of the hex sockets in an envelope for you. I suspect they screw into the same sheet metal thread the TORX screws are screwed into now. Remove one TORX screw at a time so the other is still holding the socket in place and replace it with a hex socket.
> 
> --Bob



Mine(50v) is missing one hex socket. Brought August 2009.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17454405
> 
> 
> Mine(50v) is missing one hex socket. Brought August 2009.



Sometimes, if you use the cable with the retaining screws, and overtighten them, it will unscrew the hex standoff when you remove the cable. Might still be clinging on there.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17451835
> 
> 
> Just on the possibility that an active HDMI connection corrupted the flash memory during the initial transfer, but again, only if you feel comfortable, I would suggest erasing the flash and try again. If it is the only step between you and replacement of the video board or power supply, what could it hurt?



Well here's the latest on my issue after re-seating the video boards best i could and reprogrammed using all 3 USB ports on my laptop within the past hour. Attached are pics for the latest programming session for v2.07. Thanks for the advice given. I'll have to wait for Anthem to debug my error before I get a new board(they said).


Only thing I can think of is wiping my computer clean and reloading Vista 32 plus apps all over again










Thanks for the help given...

David


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17454487
> 
> 
> Sometimes, if you use the cable with the retaining screws, and overtighten them, it will unscrew the hex standoff when you remove the cable. Might still be clinging on there.



Nope... that's what i suspected as well. Could not find standoff on serial cable or in AV cabinet. Besides, I think the back panel would show some scratching where the standoff used to be. I see none of that here.


PS...really cool theater


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17454529
> 
> 
> Nope... that's what i suspected as well. Could not find standoff on serial cable or in AV cabinet. Besides, I think the back panel would show some scratching where the standoff used to be. I see none of that here.



Perhaps it stuck to the serial cable when they programmed the unit in the factory....

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17454514
> 
> 
> Well here's the latest on my issue after re-seating the video boards best i could and reprogrammed using all 3 USB ports on my laptop within the past hour. Attached are pics for the latest programming session for v2.07. Thanks for the advice given. I'll have to wait for Anthem to debug my error before I get a new board(they said).
> 
> 
> Only thing I can think of is wiping my computer clean and reloading Vista 32 plus apps all over again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help given...
> 
> David



Be sure you are using static protection if you are fiddling inside the chassis!

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

A lot of comfortable shoes in that picture!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17454514
> 
> 
> Well here's the latest on my issue after re-seating the video boards best i could and reprogrammed using all 3 USB ports on my laptop within the past hour. Attached are pics for the latest programming session for v2.07. Thanks for the advice given. I'll have to wait for Anthem to debug my error before I get a new board(they said).
> 
> 
> Only thing I can think of is wiping my computer clean and reloading Vista 32 plus apps all over again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help given...
> 
> David


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17453928
> 
> 
> Only thing is if I take out the torx screws, the rs232 may fall inside the D2v. Bob mentioned removing one at a time, but I don't think I can remove only one screw and then attach this "Standoff" you refer to and then unscrew the second screw. Bob mentioned attaching sockets after removing one screw at a time, which may work depending on how the sockets are attached. Then I would probably need some sort of standoff anyway.
> 
> 
> I'll wait to see what Nick says before I frig around with it too much and do something I regret.




As Bob stated, nothing to worry about....


Take out one at a time, and replace them with the Standoff, good to go...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17454650
> 
> 
> A lot of comfortable shoes in that picture!!



Part of the benefits of being in between jobs, i guess


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17454798
> 
> 
> As Bob stated, nothing to worry about....
> 
> 
> Take out one at a time, and replace them with the Standoff, good to go...



Can you send me a link to a website where I can get one of these "standoffs"? I can't seem to find them.


Thanks


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17455626
> 
> 
> Can you send me a link to a website where I can get one of these "standoffs"? I can't seem to find them.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Here is a place I found after doing a quick search. You might be better off trying a local computer store that builds and fixes them. I have some I would send you, but it would probably cost more in postage then you could get them for locally.

http://www.startech.com/category/par...offs/list.aspx


----------



## obie_fl

Here is a link to some "standoffs" actually they are hex screws a lot of the standoffs I have don't have threads in the head.


Regarding all these USB adapter issues.... I know not everyone has a half dozen PCs and laptops laying around with RS232 ports like I do but... for a little more then the price of the Keyscan adapter I'm sure you could pick up an old laptop at the neighborhood garage sale or on the Bay. Think of it as an audio accessory.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17455626
> 
> 
> Can you send me a link to a website where I can get one of these "standoffs"? I can't seem to find them.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I have hundreds of them I can send you for free.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/17455714
> 
> 
> Here is a place I found after doing a quick search. You might be better off trying a local computer store that builds and fixes them. I have some I would send you, but it would probably cost more in postage then you could get them for locally.
> 
> http://www.startech.com/category/par...offs/list.aspx





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17455723
> 
> 
> Here is a link to some "standoffs" actually they are hex screws a lot of the standoffs I have don't have threads in the head.
> 
> 
> Regarding all these USB adapter issues.... I know not everyone has a half dozen PCs and laptops laying around with RS232 ports like I do but... for a little more then the price of the Keyscan adapter I'm sure you could pick up an old laptop at the neighborhood garage sale or on the Bay. Think of it as an audio accessory.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17455727
> 
> 
> I have hundreds of them I can send you for free.



Thanks guys. I was looking for something entirely different which explains why I had no luck.


Drhankz: Thanks. I might take you up on the offer if I can't find any locally.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17455805
> 
> 
> Thanks guys. I was looking for something entirely different which explains why I had no luck.
> 
> 
> Drhankz: Thanks. I might take you up on the offer if I can't find any locally.



I have to think Locally will be days and days faster than

mail from NH to Canada - but I do have a bag full of them.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17455830
> 
> 
> I have to think Locally will be days and days faster than
> 
> mail from NH to Canada - but I do have a bag full of them.



Agree....I might even be able to get some through our IT department at work.


Thanks


Where abouts in NH are you? We go down to Portland and Kittery, Maine and Portsmouth and North Conway, NH almost every year. We love it there.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17455965
> 
> 
> Agree....I might even be able to get some through our IT department at work.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Where abouts in NH are you? We go down to Portland and Kittery, Maine and Portsmouth and North Conway, NH almost every year. We love it there.



We Live in Salem, NH about 25-30 miles from Kittery

and a Lake House on Lake Winnipesaukee - about 20

miles from N. Conway.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17455965
> 
> 
> Agree....I might even be able to get some through our IT department at work.




There ya go... your guys there will have some of them laying around or be able to scrounge some up I Guaruntee - stuff like that just ends up in a box or a bag - almost never to be seen again...










When they get new hardware like motherboards - it comes with bags of them and 99% of the time they go unused - so I have tons of them laying around. Good luck buddy...


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17455805
> 
> 
> Thanks guys. I was looking for something entirely different which explains why I had no luck.



And don't sweat it until you get the stand-offs. While it is nice to have the cable screwed in it certainly not a requirement for a solid connection. The RS-232 connection without the screws is still 1000% more secure than the lovely HDMI connectors we have been blessed with.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/17456417
> 
> 
> And don't sweat it until you get the stand-offs. While it is nice to have the cable screwed in it certainly not a requirement for a solid connection. The RS-232 connection without the screws is still 1000% more secure than the lovely HDMI connectors we have been blessed with.



Amen to that BROTHA !!!!


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17453928
> 
> *Only thing is if I take out the torx screws, the rs232 may fall inside the D2v.*



Simple solution.

1. Unscrew 1 torx screw.

2. Replace with proper threaded hex standoff.

3. Repeat steps 1 & 2.


The RS-232 won't move this way, but like Bob said, it's already mounted on the back of the PCB so you'll probably be ok anyway.

Assuming the PCB is mounted properly.....


The hex screws are required for me as I leave the cable plugged in all of the time.

I know I've bitched about this before, but mounting the RS-232 on the back of these pre-pros is lazy and a PITA.

Not making the switch to USB & moving the socket to the front panel when the D2 came out results in all these posts

about flakey firmware uploads, cables etc.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17456851
> 
> 
> Simple solution.
> 
> 1. Unscrew 1 torx screw.
> 
> 2. Replace with proper threaded hex standoff.
> 
> 3. Repeat steps 1 & 2.
> 
> 
> The RS-232 won't move this way, but like Bob said, it's already mounted on the back of the PCB so you'll probably be ok anyway.
> 
> Assuming the PCB is mounted properly.....
> 
> 
> The hex screws are required for me as I leave the cable plugged in all of the time.
> 
> I know I've bitched about this before, but mounting the RS-232 on the back of these pre-pros is lazy and a PITA.
> 
> Not making the switch to USB & moving the socket to the front panel when the D2 came out results in all these posts
> 
> about flakey firmware uploads, cables etc.



Not too concerned here. I've done a couple of firmware upgrades as is, but I do leave mine attached as well, so I will definitely be adding these standoffs when I get them. the last thing I want is for the cable to pop out in the middle of a download sometime. I'm not sure what issues that would create.


Ditto on the USB, or lack thereof.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In the end, high technology comes down to wires and screws....











(Oh, and Smoke. The electronics just don't work right if you let the Smoke out.)

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Bob,

I also posted this over in the Oppo 83 thread.

Thanks for all the info. I knew I should have done the update. I had v BDP83-22-0430. Sometimes I think updating will give me more problems than I already have. I updated to v BDP83-40-0925 using the usb drive and everything went smoothly until I got a magenta colored screen when it finished. I turned it off and back on and everything cleared up. (whew).

On the Oppo the settings are:1080p24Output-Off, DVD 24p Conversion -Off.

On sd-dvd I'm using 480i/60 to let the D2 do the upconverting.I checked using the Select button on the D2 and it said720/480i/60 input and1920/1080p/24 output. I changed the output to 1080p/60 as you recommended. I'm not sure what to set the Oppo or the D2 as far as Blue-Ray though. I was under the impression that 1080p/24 was for BD. Do I have to keep changing settings in the D2 everytime I switch between sd and bd?

As long as I'm clearing all of these settings up I thought I'd add what I, using for audio and make sure that's ok. Audio In: 48khz PCM Audio out: 24/192 kHz.

Thanks for all your help. The fw update and changing the settings seem to have cleared up the skipping frames problem.

Ken


----------



## ibg5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17442819
> 
> 
> Do not try to convert standard DVDs to 1080p/24 on your D2. It won't work and you will get stuttering. Also, do not try to convert movies from a TV source (cable or satellite for example) to 1080p/24 on your D2 -- again you will get stuttering.
> 
> 
> Use 1080p/24 output from the D2 only when playing 1080p/24 input from a Blu-Ray player. Use 1080p/60 or 1080p/50 output from the D2 otherwise.
> 
> --Bob



Strange...

I considered, that 480i60 Film Mode is original 480p24.
http://www.avforums.com/forums/plasm...ml#post6637090 

Therefore also has thought, that in this case Anthem should define Film Mode and independently make upscaling to 1080p, to trusting this process Pioneer.

And why Anthem cannot make it?


In the instruction v.1.1x (p. 62) for Frame Lock is spoken:


> Quote:
> Synchronizes the output refresh rate to the input (default Off). When Auto is selected, the refresh rate will
> 
> synchronize, overriding the setting in menu 8, unless the nature of the input prevents this lock. Frame Lock
> 
> can be useful when the display accepts video-based refresh rates (50 Hz in PAL regions or 60 Hz in NTSC
> 
> regions) and film-based rates (24, 48, or 72 Hz) thus making motion smoother when watching both types.
> 
> To use Frame Lock, set the output in menu 8 to 720p/24 or 1080p/24, or use the Live Video Settings Editor to
> 
> load 720p/48, 720p/72, or 1080p/48. Set Frame Lock to Auto for all sources that you want to come out at the
> 
> same frame rate as the input (or better yet program source layers, for example DVD1 and DVD2, such that
> 
> Frame Lock is active in one layer and off in another - see section 3.5).
> 
> When playing a 50 or 60 Hz source that originated from 24 frame-per-second film, turn Frame Lock off (or
> 
> change source layer) - the output refresh rate will change back to 24/48/72 Hz.



In the instruction v.1.3x (p. 71) is spoken:


> Quote:
> The default is Off. Frame Lock is useful with video games by cutting processing time. When Auto is selected,
> 
> buffering is disabled and the processor's output synchronizes with the source.
> 
> If your display accepts various refresh rates and your disc player has passthrough mode, you can also use
> 
> Frame Lock to match refresh rate to the source material (24 Hz / 50 Hz / 60 Hz), overriding the refresh rate
> 
> selected in menu 1. Engaging Frame Lock increases source switching time, therefore it should not be used
> 
> if not needed - assigning different video output configurations in menu 1 is more effective in this case.
> 
> Auto means that if the source has a nature that prevents Frame Lock from engaging, it will not engage.



As a matter of fact - Frame Lock it is NOT RECOMMENDED....

With what it is connected?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ibg5* /forum/post/17460337
> 
> 
> Strange...
> 
> I considered, that 480i60 Film Mode is original 480p24.
> http://www.avforums.com/forums/plasm...ml#post6637090
> 
> Therefore also has thought, that in this case Anthem should define Film Mode and independently make upscaling to 1080p, to trusting this process Pioneer.
> 
> And why Anthem cannot make it?
> 
> 
> In the instruction v.1.1x (p. 62) for Frame Lock is spoken:
> 
> 
> 
> In the instruction v.1.3x (p. 71) is spoken:
> 
> 
> 
> As a matter of fact - Frame Lock it is NOT RECOMMENDED....
> 
> With what it is connected?



Trust me on this. With a D2 or AVM 50, do *NOT* try to convert 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24. It won't work correctly.


This is a limitation of the video processor in those units.


You can use frame lock with Blu-ray players by setting the Blu-ray player to output 1080p/24 when playing film-based Blu-ray discs and to output 1080p/60 otherwise. Any decent Blu-ray player will have an Automatic setting that does this. Then set a Video Output Configuration in the D2 to 1080p/24 output. NOTE: You will also need a Video Output Configuration in the D2 for 1080p/60 output to use with other Sources.


Finally set your Source definition for the Blu-ray input to use the 1080p/24 Video Output configuration and, in Video Source Adjust > Output, set Frame Lock = AUTO. When the player sends 1080p/24 to the D2 (for film-based Blu-Ray discs), the D2 will output 1080p/24 and that will work just fine. When the player sends 1080p/60 to the D2 (for everything else), Frame Lock will switch the D2 to output 1080p/60.


Using Frame Lock in this fashion will make the HDMI handshake run a bit more slowly. The alternative is to turn Frame Lock OFF and manually switch between your two Video Output Configurations -- either using the shortcut under the Mode button on the remote or by setting up two separate Source definitions in the D2 -- both taking input from the Blu-ray player -- with one using the 1080p/60 Video Output Configuration and the other using the 1080p/24 Video Output configuration.


-------------------------------------------------


Technical Note: Although movies originally recorded on film are indeed /24, the process of transferring them to DVD changes that to 480i/60. In many cases, detecting and extracting the original /24 image stream from that is very difficult do to the way the transfer was created and edited. In some cases it is simply impossible.


With "problem" DVDs, what will happen is that the processor looses track of the /24 cadence due to the way the DVD was created and edited and you get image tearing or a stutter as a result. What's SUPPOSED to happen is that the processor rapidly recovers -- finds the /24 cadence again -- and the imaging goes back to normal. The video processor in the D2 and AVM 50 does not recover properly -- the stuttering continues. This is a hardware limitation in that model of processor chip which Anthem was not able to work around with firmware.


With some DVDs, even with other video processors, the /24 cadence can not be detected in the first place or can not be recovered after a glitch. With those DVDs /24 is never going to work well. So even if you have a PLAYER that converts DVDs to /24 you will likely find it only works well on newer, better quality DVD transfers made after players started doing that.


Film-based movies on Blu-Ray discs are ON DISC as 1080p/24, so no such conversion is needed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17459950
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I also posted this over in the Oppo 83 thread.
> 
> Thanks for all the info. I knew I should have done the update. I had v BDP83-22-0430. Sometimes I think updating will give me more problems than I already have. I updated to v BDP83-40-0925 using the usb drive and everything went smoothly until I got a magenta colored screen when it finished. I turned it off and back on and everything cleared up. (whew).
> 
> On the Oppo the settings are:1080p24Output-Off, DVD 24p Conversion -Off.
> 
> On sd-dvd I'm using 480i/60 to let the D2 do the upconverting.I checked using the Select button on the D2 and it said720/480i/60 input and1920/1080p/24 output. I changed the output to 1080p/60 as you recommended. I'm not sure what to set the Oppo or the D2 as far as Blue-Ray though. I was under the impression that 1080p/24 was for BD. Do I have to keep changing settings in the D2 everytime I switch between sd and bd?
> 
> As long as I'm clearing all of these settings up I thought I'd add what I, using for audio and make sure that's ok. Audio In: 48khz PCM Audio out: 24/192 kHz.
> 
> Thanks for all your help. The fw update and changing the settings seem to have cleared up the skipping frames problem.
> 
> Ken



The Oppo does such a good job of de-interlacing and scaling SD-DVDs that I prefer using 1080p output from it for everything.


For connection to a D2 that would mean using the following Oppo settings with an HDMI (only) cable connection:


Explicit 1080p video resolution, Preferred Output HDMI, TV System Multi, TV Aspect Ratio "16:9 Wide/Auto", HDMI Color Space YCbCr 4:4:4, HDMI Deep Color OFF (Dithered), 1080p/24 Auto, DVD/24 OFF, Secondary Audio OFF, HDMI Audio LPCM, SACD Output PCM, Dynamic Range Control OFF, HDMI CEC OFF.


You can use 1080p/24 Auto in the Oppo even if your DISPLAY doesn't like /24 input -- the D2 will do the conversion from /24 to /60.


If your display DOES like /24 input, and "does the right thing" with it, you can turn DVD/24 ON in the Oppo when playing newer, better quality SD-DVD transfers. But be prepared to turn it back off again if you start to see stuttering.


The Speaker Configuration settings in the Oppo are ignored for HDMI output.


The PCM sampling rate setting in the Oppo is also ignored for HDMI output.


EXCEPTION: When playing SD-DVDs, consider changing HDMI Audio to Bitstream in the Oppo. The Oppo does not decode the rear channel information from DTS ES tracks on SD-DVDs but the D2 will decode that. Be sure to change HDMI Audio back to LPCM for other stuff. You can change this on the fly -- while a disc is playing -- in the Oppo.


The other Oppo settings are at your discretion, but keep in mind that the Oppo factory defaults are intelligently chosen. For example, the default Picture settings (all 0) will put out reference quality video on the HDMI cable, so you shouldn't really need to fiddle with these.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

anyone got the chance to get Windows 7 and ARC working... Just checking, I'm about to buy a couple of copies...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC is known not to work with Windows 7 at the moment. The mic will not be handled correctly. However it SHOULD work in Windows 7 XP compatibility mode. Nobody here has confirmed that yet.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

Im sorry bob, I should have specified that about working in XP compatible....


I assume they will just release a new version of ARC when that time comes


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17460936
> 
> 
> ARC is known not to work with Windows 7 at the moment. The mic will not be handled correctly. However it SHOULD work in Windows 7 XP compatibility mode. Nobody here has confirmed that yet.
> 
> --Bob



Someone did CONFIRM ARC working under W7 Virtual XP mode.


----------



## Warpdrv

Thanks Doc... I must have missed that... appreciate it...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

On a related topic, if anyone tries XP or Vista or Windows 7 (perhaps in XP emulation mode) running on a Mac via VMWare Fusion 3, please report if the Anthem stuff seems to work that way and also whether it still seems to be the case that you need to use the Belkin USB/Serial adapter instead of the Keyspan when running via this new release of VMWare.


BootCamp on the Macs does not yet support Windows 7 so that combo is not available to try yet. I use BootCamp with XP and a Keyspan adapter now.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

So far using V2.07j I've seen no cases of the problem reported in both V2.07 and V2.07g where ALL analog video input is lost (including on-screen display of the Setup menu) after an extended period viewing HDMI 1080p/24 input. The workaround is to power cycle the Anthem.


V2.07j, as well as V2.07f, seems to be immune to this bug.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17461714
> 
> 
> So far using V2.07j I've seen no cases of the problem reported in both V2.07 and V2.07g where ALL analog video input is lost (including on-screen display of the Setup menu) after an extended period viewing HDMI 1080p/24 input. The workaround is to power cycle the Anthem.
> 
> 
> V2.07j, as well as V2.07f, seems to be immune to this bug.
> 
> --Bob



I loaded 2.07j over the weekend and I still cannot access the Setup Menu. All I get is a few raster flashes then a black screen and I was not viewing any 1080p/24 sources. It has been TIVO at native rate.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The special bass test tones in the Room Resonance Filter remain broken in V2.07j. They will only produce one frequency.


The normal Level Calibration test tones appear to be working correctly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17461784
> 
> 
> I loaded 2.07j over the weekend and I still cannot access the Setup Menu. All I get is a few raster flashes then a black screen and I was not viewing any 1080p/24 sources. It has been TIVO at native rate.



As I understand it you are saying that you can't get on-screen display of the Setup menu even if it is the first thing you try after powering up the Anthem. Correct? Even when you power it up selecting some Source that is not connected so that there is no normal video input to begin with?


If so, the usual cure for this is to utilize the Flash Eraser utility and redo the firmware install. Save and restore your Setup and Video Source Adjust settings via a PC file. If that doesn't fix it you will need to work the issue with Anthem tech support.


This problem occurs from time to time for some people after a firmware install. It is rare, but it does happen. I don't believe there is an explanation for it yet.


But if the re-install doesn't fix it then S-video processing has likely failed on your video board.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks again Bob. Now maybe I can load ARC that I bought last May and finally get the audio to sound good.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17462873
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob. Now maybe I can load ARC that I bought last May and finally get the audio to sound good.



Sheesh! What are you waiting for?


Be aware that Microsoft pushed out a change in September that broke the Windows XP and Vista installer for ARC. ARC V2.3 fixes that, but if you've never installed ARC on your Windows PC, then the installer on your original ARC CD won't work for you.


You will need to download ARC V2.3 from Anthem's web site and then take an extra step to copy your pair of licensing/calibration files from your original ARC install CD.


You only have to do this once. When future ARC versions come out they will use this pair of files already installed on your Windows PC.


For details, read this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1&post17274801 


--Bob


----------



## overkil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17430124
> 
> 
> Anthem has a "test" firmware version that fixes the same problem with AppleTV and should, I think, also fix it with the Mini. It is V1.47f. Unfortunately it is not yet available for all production runs of the AVM 50. Give Anthem tech support a call and ask them if they think V1.47f firmware should fix your problem and whether your particular AVM 50 is OK to install it on. If so, they will get you access to it.
> 
> 
> Both the Mini and AppleTV use a legal, but unusual, version of the HDMI handshake, and Anthem was unable to support it in the V1.33 firmware without breaking the much more common cable TV boxes. The V1.47f firmware has modified HDMI code which allows them to support both types of handshake. I know it works with AppleTV and I think it should also work with the Mini.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I am waiting for a call back form Nick at Anthem hopefully with some good news....thanks again and I will let you know if it worked out.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Does anyone remember any speaker setup that was not ARC friendly? I have been reading about the JTR Triple-8 speakers and several Audyssey owners are reporting that they sound better without Audyssey processing. Anyone have any idea that this reflects one way or another on the speakers or the Audyssey? Would hate to get a speaker that was in some way difficult for ARC to manage.


----------



## thestewman

Bob


The input signal sent to a Comcast DVR/Set Top Box by Comcast is 1080i. Should you not set the Comcast DVR to output 1080i and not 480p or other format so the DVR does no processing and the Anthem does any conversions for the display?


Stew


----------



## ibg5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17460814
> 
> 
> Trust me on this. With a D2 or AVM 50, do *NOT* try to convert 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24. It won't work correctly.
> 
> 
> This is a limitation of the video processor in those units.
> 
> 
> You can use frame lock with Blu-ray players by setting the Blu-ray player to output 1080p/24 when playing film-based Blu-ray discs and to output 1080p/60 otherwise. Any decent Blu-ray player will have an Automatic setting that does this. Then set a Video Output Configuration in the D2 to 1080p/24 output. NOTE: You will also need a Video Output Configuration in the D2 for 1080p/60 output to use with other Sources.
> 
> 
> Finally set your Source definition for the Blu-ray input to use the 1080p/24 Video Output configuration and, in Video Source Adjust > Output, set Frame Lock = AUTO. When the player sends 1080p/24 to the D2 (for film-based Blu-Ray discs), the D2 will output 1080p/24 and that will work just fine. When the player sends 1080p/60 to the D2 (for everything else), Frame Lock will switch the D2 to output 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> Using Frame Lock in this fashion will make the HDMI handshake run a bit more slowly. The alternative is to turn Frame Lock OFF and manually switch between your two Video Output Configurations -- either using the shortcut under the Mode button on the remote or by setting up two separate Source definitions in the D2 -- both taking input from the Blu-ray player -- with one using the 1080p/60 Video Output Configuration and the other using the 1080p/24 Video Output configuration.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Technical Note: Although movies originally recorded on film are indeed /24, the process of transferring them to DVD changes that to 480i/60. In many cases, detecting and extracting the original /24 image stream from that is very difficult do to the way the transfer was created and edited. In some cases it is simply impossible.
> 
> 
> With "problem" DVDs, what will happen is that the processor looses track of the /24 cadence due to the way the DVD was created and edited and you get image tearing or a stutter as a result. What's SUPPOSED to happen is that the processor rapidly recovers -- finds the /24 cadence again -- and the imaging goes back to normal. The video processor in the D2 and AVM 50 does not recover properly -- the stuttering continues. This is a hardware limitation in that model of processor chip which Anthem was not able to work around with firmware.
> 
> 
> With some DVDs, even with other video processors, the /24 cadence can not be detected in the first place or can not be recovered after a glitch. With those DVDs /24 is never going to work well. So even if you have a PLAYER that converts DVDs to /24 you will likely find it only works well on newer, better quality DVD transfers made after players started doing that.
> 
> 
> Film-based movies on Blu-Ray discs are ON DISC as 1080p/24, so no such conversion is needed.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, very very very thanks!

And with D2v the same situation with video processor limitation?

And than speaks limitation on upgrade firmwares 1.47X? I D2 has number 1342хх. How to define will rise on it new 1.47? You mentioned, that it is possible to define on colour of a videocard. But I D2 is in a rack and it is easy to make it it will not turn out.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ibg5* /forum/post/17466095
> 
> 
> Bob, very very very thanks!
> 
> And with D2v the same situation with video processor limitation?
> 
> And than speaks limitation on upgrade firmwares 1.47X? I D2 has number 1342хх. How to define will rise on it new 1.47? You mentioned, that it is possible to define on colour of a videocard. But I D2 is in a rack and it is easy to make it it will not turn out.



The video processor in the D2v and in the AVM 50v does not have the limitation of the older processor in the D2 and AVM 50.


Anthem has released preliminary support for 480i/60 and 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion (for film-based content) in the current "official" firmware. However they are not claiming it is "done" yet. They call it a "work in progress" and they haven't listed it as a new, working feature in the release notes. We've had some mixed reports here. It certainly works better than what happens in the D2 and AVM 50, but Anthem still has some work to do to refine how quickly it restores the cadence after the inevitable glitches in the input video stream


------------------------------------------------------------


As far as I know, you can not tell whether a D2 is OK for installation of the "test" V1.47f firmware by serial number alone. Anthem has a way to tell -- some sort of test program they ask you to run on your Windows PC that goes over the serial cable and detects the hardware status. If you really want to try "test" V1.47f right now, and can't see through the vents to confirm your hardware, call or email Anthem tech support for assistance.


Keep in mind that "test" firmware is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises -- although so far, almost all the reports we've had here on V1.47f have been positive. I no longer have my D2, so I can't try it myself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17465990
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> The input signal sent to a Comcast DVR/Set Top Box by Comcast is 1080i. Should you not set the Comcast DVR to output 1080i and not 480p or other format so the DVR does no processing and the Anthem does any conversions for the display?
> 
> 
> Stew



Ideally the Comcast DVR should be set to send out the same video as is coming in on the cable at the moment for each channel you tune to.


For SD channels that will always and only be 480i.


For HD channels that will be 1080i for most channels, but 720p for others. For example, HD channels owned by ESPN, MLB, Disney, and ABC are always 720p. History Channel HD will be 720p due to its ownership. Some "independent" local HD stations are 720p (all the time) because at some times of the day they send out content from Disney.


The newest Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR boxes (the DCX series), have a "Native" mode that does just this. It will automatically switch output between 480i, 720p, and 1080i according to what's coming in at the moment.


The older DCH and DCT series boxes do not have "Native" mode. They have a resolution setting for HD station output and a resolution "override" setting for SD station output. Typically you would set these boxes to use 1080i for HD channels and 480i for SD channels.


To do this you need to get into the "special" menu. Use the remote for the cable box and turn it off. Then, while it is still off, press Menu. When you are done making changes in the "special" menu, press Menu again to exit from it, then Power to turn the box back on normally.


The DCH boxes are intermediate in that they don't have a "Native" mode but they do have a button on the front panel (and a way to assign a button on the remote) which manually switches between the video output resolutions.


-----------------------------------------


If your box doesn't have the flexibility to switch output, then you should set it to 1080i all the time. HD 1080i channels (the most common) will look best. 720p channels and SD channels will not look quite as good as they could but you may very well never notice the difference due to OTHER damage the cable company has already done to all its channels anyway -- re-compressing them and bit-starving them -- that is worse than scaling artifacts, and perhaps even worse than de-interlacing artifacts.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34

I would like to know anyone that has gone from a D2 to a d2v if you were pleased with the difference? Are there some very positive and or negative things moving to the d2v?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/17465808
> 
> 
> Does anyone remember any speaker setup that was not ARC friendly? I have been reading about the JTR Triple-8 speakers and several Audyssey owners are reporting that they sound better without Audyssey processing. Anyone have any idea that this reflects one way or another on the speakers or the Audyssey? Would hate to get a speaker that was in some way difficult for ARC to manage.



I can't imagine why any speaker would sound worse when using a well set up Room EQ system unless the Measurements were faulty to begin with -- garbage in, garbage out.


Some speakers are so directional in the high frequencies that ARC can't get useful Measurements up there. In which case it is best not to ask ARC to attempt correction too high. This is one reason the default Max EQ Frequency setting in ARC is as low as 5KHz.


If you are using Full Range LF/RF speakers and no subwoofer, ARC will still apply a roll off below 25Hz. This is intentional as MOST such speaker designs -- even if they Measure as adequate down there -- are not really capable of producing those subsonic frequencies at higher volumes. So this is a design choice in ARC to help protect people.


If you have one of the rare LF/RF speakers that can REALLY go deep into the subsonics at volume -- perhaps main speakers with attached satellite subs -- then they just MIGHT sound better way down there without ARC. If you have a good subwoofer directly connected to the Anthem, this is not an issue since the sub handles things down that low. There is no directionality (no "stereo imaging") way down there so there is no need to maintain Left/Right separation.


And of course turning off ARC means you don't get its benefits at all the other, higher frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17474048
> 
> 
> I would like to know anyone that has gone from a D2 to a d2v if you were pleased with the difference? Are there some very positive and or negative things moving to the d2v?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I did and I've been very happy I did.


I found more improvement in both video and audio than I was expecting.


The downside is that the D2v firmware still has some bugs which Anthem hasn't squashed yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" D2v / AVM 50v Firmware V2.08 (pre-release) Now Up on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page!*


This morning, Anthem has placed "test" D2v and AVM 50v firmware V2.08 on their password protected download page. This is a "pre-release", or "release candidate" version -- the final stages of testing before a release becomes "official" and gets moved to the public download page.


Release notes for changes since the prior "official" version, V2.07, read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08 pre-release:
> 
> 
> 1. In a previous 2.07 beta, rear output broke with HD 5.1 input matrixed out to 7.1. This is fixed.
> 
> 
> There are some outstanding issues which will be addressed in v2.08 beta versions.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07j beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed 7.1 downmix to 5.1.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed DTS-MA decoding when 5.1 or more speakers are used.
> 
> 
> 3. Fixed audio dropout when SPDIF source changes from DTS/Dolby to PCM.
> 
> 
> Known issue: PCM sources with no L/R content are muted even though there is content in other channels.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07i beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Added reset for audio DSP crash that somtimes occurred when changing source and resulted in need for AC reboot.
> 
> 
> 2. Improved HDMI switching.
> 
> 
> Known issue: Preset surround mode does not take effect when a stereo source is selected (mode can still be selected manually).
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07g beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for audio loss when some advanced bass management settings were changed manually.
> 
> 
> 2. Small change to DTS Master Audio display since unabbreviated display is required.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Faster HDMI lock when switching sources.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07e beta:
> 
> 
> 1. More changes to address video switching, audio dropouts, and audio glitches.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. More changes to video code base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Video processor code base updates.
> 
> 
> 2. Audio DSP code base update.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for Sony as second monitor.



Please note that "test" V2.08 does *NOT* carry the *SCARY WARNING!* about the potential for having to return your unit to the Anthem factory for corrective reprogramming if the install fails during programming of the video board. Nevertheless, if you haven't done a firmware install before, you might want to play it safe and practice first by re-installing the CURRENT official version, V2.07, on top of itself first to make sure your Windows PC and serial connection are working well for firmware installs.


In addition, as always, keep in mind that "test" firmware -- even a release candidate -- is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises.


"Test" V2.08 includes the very important audio fix restoring proper 7.1 speaker output from 5.1 channel high-bandwidth audio input. Finally folks with 7.1 speaker systems can now move from "official" V2.07 to "test" V2.08 without losing their rear speakers!


Nick tells me that the audio bug where HDMI LPCM input will get incorrectly muted if there happens to be no audio content in either the LF or RF channels at the moment has not yet been fixed. The fix requires a firmware fix from one of their chip suppliers and they feel it is too important to get the other fixes out to wait. The fix will be made available in a future "test" release, based on V2.08 after it becomes "official". This bug is primarily a nuisance factor -- it makes it impossible to use HDMI LPCM for some calibration disc audio test tracks. Almost all real content will always have something in LF or RF, so no problem. Until it is fixed, you must use HDMI Bitstream input of a bitstream track -- e.g., TrueHD -- for such one-speaker-at-a-time calibration testing.


I've got an email in to Nick to clarify whether the bug of 2.0 input sometimes producing only 2.1 speaker output (instead of applying the proper Mode Preset) is fixed or pending. The workaround for this one is to use the Mode button and Up/Down arrow to change to any other audio mode and back.


And there's also the minor known bug where the special bass test tones in the Room Resonance Filter are not functioning correctly. I'll see if that is fixed or pending.


Finally, it appears that in some cases there may be a video color quality problem. It is subtle and may be related to specific combinations of settings -- such as my case where I need Studio RGB output for my display. It is highly likely that most people wouldn't even notice it. But Nick tells me they are on that case as well. So if they find it and squash it, there may yet be an ADDITIONAL, albeit subtle, image quality improvement yet to come!


ETA: For this last, video item, with the Oppo BDP-83 you can set "30-bit (Dithered)" HDMI video output and you will not see this problem. I don't know of an equivalent workaround for video from the PS3 as yet.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17473996
> 
> 
> Ideally the Comcast DVR should be set to send out the same video as is coming in on the cable at the moment for each channel you tune to.
> 
> 
> For SD channels that will always and only be 480i.
> 
> 
> For HD channels that will be 1080i for most channels, but 720p for others. For example, HD channels owned by ESPN, MLB, Disney, and ABC are always 720p. History Channel HD will be 720p due to its ownership. Some "independent" local HD stations are 720p (all the time) because at some times of the day they send out content from Disney.
> 
> 
> The newest Comcast/Motorola HD-DVR boxes (the DCX series), have a "Native" mode that does just this. It will automatically switch output between 480i, 720p, and 1080i according to what's coming in at the moment.
> 
> 
> The older DCH and DCT series boxes do not have "Native" mode. They have a resolution setting for HD station output and a resolution "override" setting for SD station output. Typically you would set these boxes to use 1080i for HD channels and 480i for SD channels.
> 
> 
> To do this you need to get into the "special" menu. Use the remote for the cable box and turn it off. Then, while it is still off, press Menu. When you are done making changes in the "special" menu, press Menu again to exit from it, then Power to turn the box back on normally.
> 
> 
> The DCH boxes are intermediate in that they don't have a "Native" mode but they do have a button on the front panel (and a way to assign a button on the remote) which manually switches between the video output resolutions.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If your box doesn't have the flexibility to switch output, then you should set it to 1080i all the time. HD 1080i channels (the most common) will look best. 720p channels and SD channels will not look quite as good as they could but you may very well never notice the difference due to OTHER damage the cable company has already done to all its channels anyway -- re-compressing them and bit-starving them -- that is worse than scaling artifacts, and perhaps even worse than de-interlacing artifacts.
> 
> --Bob



Bob


Thanks for clearing up my confusion on this issue.



Stew


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick tells me the bug where 2.0 input sometimes doesn't correctly use your specified Mode Preset is still not fixed, and right now they suspect it is part of the same firmware fix they need from the same chip vendor as the HDMI LPCM bug. Apparently this is all underway right now and Nick expects an update shortly. But they won't hold V2.08 waiting for it.


The bug regarding the bass test tones in the Room Resonance Filter is also not fixed, but will be fixed shortly now that these more crucial bugs are out of the way.


I wouldn't be surprised if this means we see a V2.09 official release in fairly short order after V2.08 goes out -- and then the highly anticipated beta releases which include Dolby Volume!

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Bob,

I could not find the software protected download page on the anthem's web site.

I don't remember Nick or Piero gave me the password but I cannot find the web page.


Thanks,


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17474251
> 
> *New "Test" D2v / AVM 50v Firmware V2.08 (pre-release) Now Up on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> This morning, Anthem has placed "test" D2v and AVM 50v firmware V2.08 on their password protected download page. This is a "pre-release", or "release candidate" version -- the final stages of testing before a release becomes "official" and gets moved to the public download page.
> 
> 
> Release notes for changes since the prior "official" version, V2.07, read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please note that "test" V2.08 does *NOT* carry the *SCARY WARNING!* about the potential for having to return your unit to the Anthem factory for corrective reprogramming if the install fails during programming of the video board. Nevertheless, if you haven't done a firmware install before, you might want to play it safe and practice first by re-installing the CURRENT official version, V2.07, on top of itself first to make sure your Windows PC and serial connection are working well for firmware installs.
> 
> 
> In addition, as always, keep in mind that "test" firmware -- even a release candidate -- is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises.
> 
> 
> "Test" V2.08 includes the very important audio fix restoring proper 7.1 speaker output from 5.1 channel high-bandwidth audio input. Finally folks with 7.1 speaker systems can now move from "official" V2.07 to "test" V2.08 without losing their rear speakers!
> 
> 
> Nick tells me that the audio bug where HDMI LPCM input will get incorrectly muted if there happens to be no audio content in either the LF or RF channels at the moment has not yet been fixed. The fix requires a firmware fix from one of their chip suppliers and they feel it is too important to get the other fixes out to wait. The fix will be made available in a future "test" release, based on V2.08 after it becomes "official". This bug is primarily a nuisance factor -- it makes it impossible to use HDMI LPCM for some calibration disc audio test tracks. Almost all real content will always have something in LF or RF, so no problem. Until it is fixed, you must use HDMI Bitstream input of a bitstream track -- e.g., TrueHD -- for such one-speaker-at-a-time calibration testing.
> 
> 
> I've got an email in to Nick to clarify whether the bug of 2.0 input sometimes producing only 2.1 speaker output (instead of applying the proper Mode Preset) is fixed or pending. The workaround for this one is to use the Mode button and Up/Down arrow to change to any other audio mode and back.
> 
> 
> And there's also the minor known bug where the special bass test tones in the Room Resonance Filter are not functioning correctly. I'll see if that is fixed or pending.
> 
> 
> Finally, it appears that in some cases there may be a video color quality problem. It is subtle and may be related to specific combinations of settings -- such as my case where I need Studio RGB output for my display. It is highly likely that most people wouldn't even notice it. But Nick tells me they are on that case as well. So if they find it and squash it, there may yet be an ADDITIONAL, albeit subtle, image quality improvement yet to come!
> 
> 
> ETA: For this last, video item, with the Oppo BDP-83 you can set "30-bit (Dithered)" HDMI video output and you will not see this problem. I don't know of an equivalent workaround for video from the PS3 as yet.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


I will install this afternoon and report back, thanks for the heads up Bob.


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

usxplong,

There is no link to it from their public pages. Just email Anthem Tech Support if you need the address again.


They have asked that we don't give out the access info here.

--Bob


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17474251
> 
> *New "Test" D2v / AVM 50v Firmware V2.08 (pre-release) Now Up on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> --Bob



Any word on the latest release of the D2 (not v) software Bob? Seems like Anthem is focusing most of their time on the D2v software yet the bulk of the installs must be regular D2 and not D2v variety.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17475501
> 
> 
> Any word on the latest release of the D2 (not v) software Bob? Seems like Anthem is focusing most of their time on the D2v software yet the bulk of the installs must be regular D2 and not D2v variety.



The D2 changes are tied up with porting the new HDMI code to all D2 hardware configurations. Apparently they've run into a problem. I don't have an ETA on that yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" D2v V2.08 (release candidate) -- 7.1 to 5.1 Down-Mix Broken!*


There appears to be a show-stopper bug in the "test" V2.08 (release candidate) firmware. 7.1 input to 5.1 speaker output down-mixing is completely broken. No sound is produced for any input on the RR/LR channels.


This worked just fine in "test" V2.07j so I think the odds are good there is a simple fix. Expect a Release Candidate 2 shortly.


I've just emailed Nick.


-------------------------------------------


On the other hand, despite Nick's expectations, the HDMI LPCM input bug appears to be fixed!


I need to do more testing to confirm that, but I can't make it fail with the AIX test disc played on the Oppo.


All tests above done using the Channel-ID tests from the AIX disc.

*ETA: I'd like to get confirmation of this from someone else here, but for most folks, you should probably hold off installing "test V2.08 (release candidate) until this gets sorted out.*

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I've just installed 2.08, which apparently fixed the PLIIx 5.1 to 7.1. Will stick with this until final comes out. Didn't have 7.1 for a while but will test tonight to make sure it works.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17475894
> 
> 
> I've just installed 2.08, which apparently fixed the PLIIx 5.1 to 7.1. Will stick with this until final comes out. Didn't have 7.1 for a while but will test tonight to make sure it works.
> 
> John



John, if you get a chance, lie to your D2v and tell it you only have 5.1 speakers and see if 7.1 to 5.1 speaker down-mix is broken for you as well with "test" D2v V2.08 (release candidate).

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17476227
> 
> 
> John, if you get a chance, lie to your D2v and tell it you only have 5.1 speakers and see if 7.1 to 5.1 speaker down-mix is broken for you as well with "test" D2v V2.08 (release candidate).
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I will give this a try later tonight.

John


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17475662
> 
> 
> The D2 changes are tied up with porting the new HDMI code to all D2 hardware configurations. Apparently they've run into a problem. I don't have an ETA on that yet.
> 
> --Bob



Anyone running 1.47f, the latest beta, for the D2 and can share some feedback on it? I am considering upgrading to it from 1.33 later tonight, and curious especially around whether the new HDMI code has any gotcha's. thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New NEW! "Test" D2v / AVM 50v Firmware V2.08 (4nov09) Now Up on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page!*


This version is supposed to fix the 7.1 to 5.1 down-mix failure introduced in the "test" V2.08 release candidate put out earlier today. Release notes since the current "official" version, V2.07, now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08 pre-release:
> 
> 
> 1. In a previous 2.07 beta, rear output broke with HD 5.1 input matrixed out to 7.1. This is fixed.
> 
> 
> (4 Nov 09 version: Fixes 7.1 to 5.1 downmix problem introduced in v2.09k)
> 
> 
> There are some outstanding issues which will be addressed in v2.08 beta versions.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07j beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed 7.1 downmix to 5.1.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed DTS-MA decoding when 5.1 or more speakers are used.
> 
> 
> 3. Fixed audio dropout when SPDIF source changes from DTS/Dolby to PCM.
> 
> 
> Known issue: PCM sources with no L/R content are muted even though there is content in other channels.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07i beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Added reset for audio DSP crash that somtimes occurred when changing source and resulted in need for AC reboot.
> 
> 
> 2. Improved HDMI switching.
> 
> 
> Known issue: Preset surround mode does not take effect when a stereo source is selected (mode can still be selected manually).
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07g beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for audio loss when some advanced bass management settings were changed manually.
> 
> 
> 2. Small change to DTS Master Audio display since unabbreviated display is required.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Faster HDMI lock when switching sources.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07e beta:
> 
> 
> 1. More changes to address video switching, audio dropouts, and audio glitches.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. More changes to video code base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Video processor code base updates.
> 
> 
> 2. Audio DSP code base update.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for Sony as second monitor.



NOTE: There appears to be a typo in the first note above indicating this version fixes a bug introduced in "V2.09k". Presumably that should actually read "V2.07k".


This "test" V2.08(4nov09) version becomes the new "release candidate" for V2.08.


The cautions and notes from my "test" V2.08 release post from earlier today still apply with one exception:


It appears the HDMI LPCM "muting" bug may indeed be fixed in this version. That also means the 2.0 input bug may also be fixed in this version. That 2.0 input bug is harder to test as it happens kind of randomly.


If all of this is born out in testing, this will be a truly amazing release -- stabilizing and clearing up crashes, HDMI issues, video issues, and audio issues, some of which have existed since the very first D2v firmware!


I hope all this turns out to be true, as I'd like us to have a really fine and stable release before the switch to the Dolby Volume stuff happens.


But be aware that these "test" releases are coming fresh out of the oven, so they still need to be vetted before any of this becomes "official".

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17476607
> 
> *New NEW! "Test" D2v / AVM 50v Firmware V2.08 (4nov09) Now Up on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> This version is supposed to fix the 7.1 to 5.1 down-mix failure introduced in the "test" V2.08 release candidate put out earlier today. Release notes since the current "official" version, V2.07, now read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOTE: There appears to be a typo in the first note above indicating this version fixes a bug introduced in "V2.09k". Presumably that should actually read "V2.07k".
> 
> 
> This "test" V2.08(4nov09) version becomes the new "release candidate" for V2.08.
> 
> 
> The cautions and notes from my "test" V2.08 release post from earlier today still apply with one exception:
> 
> 
> It appears the HDMI LPCM "muting" bug may indeed be fixed in this version. That also means the 2.0 input bug may also be fixed in this version. That 2.0 input bug is harder to test as it happens kind of randomly.
> 
> 
> If all of this is born out in testing, this will be a truly amazing release -- stabilizing and clearing up crashes, HDMI issues, video issues, and audio issues, some of which have existed since the very first D2v firmware!
> 
> 
> I hope all this turns out to be true, as I'd like us to have a really fine and stable release before the switch to the Dolby Volume stuff happens.
> 
> 
> But be aware that these "test" releases are coming fresh out of the oven, so they still need to be vetted before any of this becomes "official".
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Bob, I can confirm that the HD Audio 5.1 to 7.1 PLIIx issue has been resolved. I installed the latest 2.08.


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Woo hoo! Another one bites the dust.










--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Upgrade is asking me for my serial number...it's never asked that before...i don't have ARC and I don't plan on having it anytime soon. Can i just put in any old number in there to get past this and install my software? It will be a royal pain to get to the back of my D2 where it is situated, and I'd really rather not deal with this. I know it sounds lame, but I'm talking another 2 hours of pulling things out and then putting them back, if I don't manage to break something in the process.


Bob, what exactly happens when I enter a number in the installer? Again, no ARC involved at all. Just good old D2 from way back in the day.


Thanks.


----------



## budeone

I ahev a problem with audio not coming back on after going from Blu back to sat.


I was informed this will be fixed with the new update.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/17477194
> 
> 
> Upgrade is asking me for my serial number...it's never asked that before...i don't have ARC and I don't plan on having it anytime soon. Can i just put in any old number in there to get past this and install my software? It will be a royal pain to get to the back of my D2 where it is situated, and I'd really rather not deal with this. I know it sounds lame, but I'm talking another 2 hours of pulling things out and then putting them back, if I don't manage to break something in the process.
> 
> 
> Bob, what exactly happens when I enter a number in the installer? Again, no ARC involved at all. Just good old D2 from way back in the day.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



CANCEL OUT OF THE INSTALL!


Give Anthem tech support a call tomorrow and let them work this through with you.


This is a rare bug, but be aware that you ONLY GET ONE CHANCE to enter the correct serial number and if you screw it up the unit will have to go back to the factory to get it fixed.


You can get the serial number off the back of the unit, as you know, and off the original shipping box, and possibly off your original purchase paperwork.


If your current firmware is still working properly after this you should also be able to get the serial number by pressing Select multiple times on the remote. The serial number gets displayed as the last item before it cycles around to the first display again.


If you get no serial number as the last item, that's another sign of this bug -- the serial number record on the main board has become corrupted and needs to be re-established. That's what the installer is trying to do. But again, you only get one shot so you must be sure you have the correct number before you enter it.


--------------------------------------------------


What firmware version are you upgrading from and to?


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/17477209
> 
> 
> I ahev a problem with audio not coming back on after going from Blu back to sat.
> 
> 
> I was informed this will be fixed with the new update.



Yes, that sounds like one of the bugs that has been fixed in the "test" versions since "official" V2.07 for the D2v and AVM 50v. V2.08 is getting very close to becoming the new "official" release -- possibly as early as this weekend.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The New Improved! "test" V2.08(4nov09) firmware appears to be a winner!


All audio appears to be working correctly in my 5.1 speaker setup. And Ralph's confirmation that the 5.1 to 7.1 conversion is also working was the main thing we were waiting for with 7.1 speaker setups.


I can confirm that the incorrect HDMI LPCM "muting" bug is indeed fixed in this version.


I've also done some modest testing and so far I've NOT been able to make the bug happen where 2.0 input to PLIIx-Movie or PLIIx-Music (as specified in the Mode Presets menu for a Source) only generates 2.1 speaker output instead of 5.1. This will take a lot more testing to prove a fix, but so far so good.


So far, I've spotted no gotchas in this version.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17477227
> 
> 
> CANCEL OUT OF THE INSTALL!
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call tomorrow and let them work this through with you.
> 
> 
> This is a rare bug, but be aware that you ONLY GET ONE CHANCE to enter the correct serial number and if you screw it up the unit will have to go back to the factory to get it fixed.
> 
> 
> You can get the serial number off the back of the unit, as you know, and off the original shipping box, and possibly off your original purchase paperwork.
> 
> 
> If your current firmware is still working properly after this you should also be able to get the serial number by pressing Select multiple times on the remote. The serial number gets displayed as the last item before it cycles around to the first display again.
> 
> 
> If you get no serial number as the last item, that's another sign of this bug -- the serial number record on the main board has become corrupted and needs to be re-established. That's what the installer is trying to do. But again, you only get one shot so you must be sure you have the correct number before you enter it.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> What firmware version are you upgrading from and to?
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I am going from 1.10 (yeah, i know!) to 1.33 right now. I was able to get the serial number off the back of the D2 by borrowing my wife's pocket mirror and a flashlight! Reading numbers backwards sucks, but I got it fine. Now, I have a different problem. I go thru the 1.33 installer and everything is going great until i get to the last step of the Verifying OKI firmware, and then it fails with an error like OKI Boot loader cannot connect...I have re-tried twice now and still the same error, but I do get thru like 10 minutes of other stuff prior to that point. What do you think is my problem?


Thanks!


----------



## ManWithAPlan

OK, now this is weird. The install of 1.33 failed three times with the same error "Cannot connect to OKI boot loader" during the 'verifying oki internal flash" which was immediately AFTER succesfully getting thru the "programming oki internal flash"....here's the weird part, after the last failure, i just closed up the upgrade application, and powered back on the D2, and it is showing as version 1.33, and has the new menu's and such it appears...and has my serial number now in the last of the Status toggles (thanks Bob for pointing that out, makes life WAY easier)...but the question now is...do you think i have a good full image of 1.33 based on this, or should i not reconnect all my HDMI and give things a whirl?


Let me know Bob, I am but a child lost in the woods  Do i dare upgrade to 1.47f is the question?????


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/17477336
> 
> 
> Bob, I am going from 1.10 (yeah, i know!) to 1.33 right now. I was able to get the serial number off the back of the D2 by borrowing my wife's pocket mirror and a flashlight! Reading numbers backwards sucks, but I got it fine. Now, I have a different problem. I go thru the 1.33 installer and everything is going great until i get to the last step of the Verifying OKI firmware, and then it fails with an error like OKI Boot loader cannot connect...I have re-tried twice now and still the same error, but I do get thru like 10 minutes of other stuff prior to that point. What do you think is my problem?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



This one is relatively easy to fix, but again I'm going to have to tell you to work it with Anthem tech support tomorrow.


What's happened is that something has left your D2 in a state where it won't accept a new firmware install for all of its programmable parts -- in this case the OKI piece. This is probably related to whatever wiped out your serial number on the main board. Did you have a power glitch?


Anyway the fix is to get (from Anthem tech support) a Windows utility program called the Flash Eraser. It talks over the serial connection to your D2. You run it several times and it makes sure each programmable piece in the D2 is reset into the state where it will accept the new install. Then you redo your firmware install and manually re-enter your Setup and Video Source Adjust settings (if you don't happen to have them saved to files on your Windows PC).


The Anthem guys will get you the access info, and walk you through the process. It is not tough, although it is a nuisance to have to reenter all your settings.


It is also just possible that the serial connection from your Windows PC isn't working correctly. They'll be able to help you figure that out as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/17477403
> 
> 
> OK, now this is weird. The install of 1.33 failed three times with the same error "Cannot connect to OKI boot loader" during the 'verifying oki internal flash" which was immediately AFTER succesfully getting thru the "programming oki internal flash"....here's the weird part, after the last failure, i just closed up the upgrade application, and powered back on the D2, and it is showing as version 1.33, and has the new menu's and such it appears...and has my serial number now in the last of the Status toggles (thanks Bob for pointing that out, makes life WAY easier)...but the question now is...do you think i have a good full image of 1.33 based on this, or should i not reconnect all my HDMI and give things a whirl?
> 
> 
> Let me know Bob, I am but a child lost in the woods  Do i dare upgrade to 1.47f is the question?????



Don't go to V1.47f until you know your firmware install setup is working well enough to get V1.33 installed -- or Anthem tech support instructs you to try it anyway.


No your V1.33 install is not really "done" if it complained like that. There are pieces of the install that have not completed yet. You've got the main board programmed, but the audio processor and video processor are not yet programmed. So you are in a strange intermediate state.


If you can get into the Setup menu -- even just using the Front panel display -- now would be a good time to write down any Setup menu settings you can't remember off the top of your head.


It's OK to attach your HDMI display, and if you get video, then also bring up Video Source Adjust menu for each Source and if that works then write down your Video Source Adjust menu settings.


But again, your firmware is NOT fully installed yet, and odds are you will need to do the Flash Eraser thing before you can redo the install properly.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17477431
> 
> 
> This one is relatively easy to fix, but again I'm going to have to tell you to work it with Anthem tech support tomorrow.
> 
> 
> What's happened is that something has left your D2 in a state where it won't accept a new firmware install for all of its programmable parts -- in this case the OKI piece. This is probably related to whatever wiped out your serial number on the main board. Did you have a power glitch?
> 
> 
> Anyway the fix is to get (from Anthem tech support) a Windows utility program called the Flash Eraser. It talks over the serial connection to your D2. You run it several times and it makes sure each programmable piece in the D2 is reset into the state where it will accept the new install. Then you redo your firmware install and manually re-enter your Setup and Video Source Adjust settings (if you don't happen to have them saved to files on your Windows PC).
> 
> 
> The Anthem guys will get you the access info, and walk you through the process. It is not tough, although it is a nuisance to have to reenter all your settings.
> 
> 
> It is also just possible that the serial connection from your Windows PC isn't working correctly. They'll be able to help you figure that out as well.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, no worries my man, i'm an old timer, and a software engineer, this stuff doesn't scare me. I have had access to Beta firmware since before you had your D2 my friend, perhaps you forget. I just need a little guidance from ya and i should be good. So, i am on the Beta site and have the Flash eraser there downloaded to my machine. Should I just run that? Again, my serial number is now showing properly in the D2 status menu options on the front panel, and the version is reporting as 1.33 now. I've even thrown a CD in and made sure it plays thru 2-ch Balanced input as before. Now, of course, that's easy stuff, no HDMI involved. My HDMI inputs and outputs are still disconnected as your "bootstrap instructions" dictate, and I'd rather complete my software moves before re-connecting things. Thoughts kind sir?


----------



## ManWithAPlan

By the way, i have my settings saved to the 1.33 settings backup utility. I also have a weird knack for remembering the settings anyway. In any case, if there is no special magic that Anthem would have to give me, and again, i have the flash eraser utility and am ready to rock n roll, why would i not proceed on this? is there any special tricks with the eraser, or dangers in running it, so long as i have all my settings as i do???


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/17477502
> 
> 
> By the way, i have my settings saved to the 1.33 settings backup utility. I also have a weird knack for remembering the settings anyway. In any case, if there is no special magic that Anthem would have to give me, and again, i have the flash eraser utility and am ready to rock n roll, why would i not proceed on this? is there any special tricks with the eraser, or dangers in running it, so long as i have all my settings as i do???



No, if you've already got Flash Eraser you are good to go. There are a couple different versions of it on their password protected download page, so just make sure you've nabbed the version for the D2.


----------------------------------


I suggest you run it about 5 times to give it a chance to confirm every single piece is reset properly.


When you do this, your D2 will be completely dumb. It won't power on. Leave it powered off when you finish, but also power cycle its back panel switch for a few seconds to put everything in a fresh state.


Then reboot your Windows PC to get IT into a fresh state, and retry the V1.33 firmware install.


NOTE: Make sure you don't have any powered HDMI connections (source or display) during the install. I recommend you simply remove wall power from everything in your setup except for the D2 and your Windows computer.


Make sure you don't have anything else running on your Windows PC during the install. For example, if you have Windows Messenger start up with each boot, find its icon in the task tray and exit out of it.


Make sure you don't let the PC go into screen saver or sleep during the install. Move the cursor a bit every few minutes during the install to keep things live.


If the V1.33 install finishes without complaint then you are done -- except for re-entering your settings.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

"Test" firmware V2.08(4nov09) has a minor change to the Select button displays to try to help clarify when Copy Protection is doing things.


For example, if you are watching protected HDMI input video you will now get a message, when pressing Select several times, saying "Video Output Muted", which means the COMPONENT video outputs are turned off due to HDMI Copy protection.


So far I haven't spotted any changes in the Setup menu or Video Source Adjust menu.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/17477477
> 
> 
> I have had access to Beta firmware since before you had your D2 my friend, perhaps you forget.



Me forget? I NEVER forget!


What were we talking about again?











--------------------------------------------------------


Speaking of which, one of the things I've forgotten is whether we've talked about the hardware limitation for "test" V1.47f. It is currently only useful on certain production runs of the D2 hardware. If you have a red video board or have a power supply which DOESN'T have the big toroidal transformer than you are good to go for V1.47f.


If you have a gray or green video board AND have the toroidal transformer in your power supply, then you MIGHT be good to go, but there's no easy way for you to tell. Anthem has a utility that queries the hardware to check in such cases.


They are still working on porting the V1.47f changes to work on other versions of the hardware.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I guess it is too late, but yes the first version of 2.08 did not do 7.1 to 5.1. Both back channels had no sound. Room resonance also had only one freq. repeated as freq. went up.

John


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17477727
> 
> 
> Me forget? I NEVER forget!
> 
> 
> What were we talking about again?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Speaking of which, one of the things I've forgotten is whether we've talked about the hardware limitation for "test" V1.47f. It is currently only useful on certain production runs of the D2 hardware. If you have a red video board or have a power supply which DOESN'T have the big toroidal transformer than you are good to go for V1.47f.
> 
> 
> If you have a gray or green video board AND have the toroidal transformer in your power supply, then you MIGHT be good to go, but there's no easy way for you to tell. Anthem has a utility that queries the hardware to check in such cases.
> 
> 
> They are still working on porting the V1.47f changes to work on other versions of the hardware.
> 
> --Bob



Your mind is a steel trap indeed Bob! I do appreciate the info on 1.47f...if i get thru all this, i'm gonna stay put on 1.33 for a bit i think. I have the oldest video board made for the D2, the old green one. I also have the large toroidal transformer that you can fry an egg on. I literally have the 2nd D2 that was ever shipped into the States, so yeah, it's an ancient relic, and now you're making me feel quite inferior  Nahh, I'm proud of it, and still enjoy it immensely...my first software version was the original 0.99b Beta version. Ahh yes, the good times, when I was telling Nick about 7 bugs a day! One day I may upgrade, but that may be when the D3 is a reality!


Cheers to you, you really do walk on water in the land of the D2.


Best to you always,

Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Wow! That was back when the D2 was still powered by steam and string, right?










I think it is a safe bet that V1.47f in its current state will not work on your D2.


You should switch to a D2v! We've had lots of fun with its bugs. Of course they're almost all gone now....

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17477875
> 
> 
> Wow! That was back when the D2 was still powered by steam and string, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a safe bet that V1.47f in its current state will not work on your D2.
> 
> 
> You should switch to a D2v! We've had lots of fun with its bugs. Of course they're almost all gone now....
> 
> --Bob



HA! Maybe...so ok, I ran the appropriate flash eraser at least 7 times, maybe 8. It erased perfectly each time. Then powered off the back switch. Keep in mind all HDMI in's/out are disconnected this whole time. No power to anything at all other than D2 and computer. I then tried to load 1.33 from scratch, and I've tried twice now and I get the same error at the same point as before, that last part with OKI boot loader verification. The D2 powers off, i close the upgrade app, and I'm left with what I think is a working D2 with 1.33 on it. A 2-channel CD input works fine. Do i just give up with software upgrades at this point, and reconnect my HDMI out/ins and try to watch TV? Do i dare? I really have no choice right now but to *hope* that my install of 1.33 is not corrupted in some way. Can I reload my saved settings from the 1.33 settings saver backup app?


Thanks again Bob.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17477798
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I guess it is too late, but yes the first version of 2.08 did not do 7.1 to 5.1. Both back channels had no sound. Room resonance also had only one freq. repeated as freq. went up.
> 
> John



John:


I'm not sure if I'm understanding what you are saying. With a 7.1 setup are the rear channels still not working with 2.08?


----------



## lk100

I updated my D2v with the 2.08 patch and now have severe audio dropouts with HDMI from the PS3. The audio handshake takes forever. With Blu-Rays it's almost unlistenable as the audio crackles in and out when the volume increases. With SACDs after a long crackling handshake, the audio comes in fine for a while, then suddenly goes silent and stays silent. I tried it with both 7.1 and 5.1 with same results. I didn't reload ARC after the install. The dig coax from the cable works fine. Is it possible that the install was bad ? I hope I didn't mess up the dsp board. I think I will go back to 2.07 and hope it works .


----------



## bluemark81

I've tried 2.08 and rear channel audio is present with 7.1. No handshake issues, so far but I do have loss of audio and audio dropouts with the PS3. No sign of this yet with the Oppo.


Edit: Audio through my Wadia iTransport is messed up and unlistenable. It also suffers from audio dropouts. I get no audio at all through my CD player using analog DSP or dig coax. So far, when switching back to my Bell satellite receiver, I lose audio. I have not tried SACD in the Oppo. So far, results are not good and going to go back to 2.07f.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/17477918
> 
> 
> HA! Maybe...so ok, I ran the appropriate flash eraser at least 7 times, maybe 8. It erased perfectly each time. Then powered off the back switch. Keep in mind all HDMI in's/out are disconnected this whole time. No power to anything at all other than D2 and computer. I then tried to load 1.33 from scratch, and I've tried twice now and I get the same error at the same point as before, that last part with OKI boot loader verification. The D2 powers off, i close the upgrade app, and I'm left with what I think is a working D2 with 1.33 on it. A 2-channel CD input works fine. Do i just give up with software upgrades at this point, and reconnect my HDMI out/ins and try to watch TV? Do i dare? I really have no choice right now but to *hope* that my install of 1.33 is not corrupted in some way. Can I reload my saved settings from the 1.33 settings saver backup app?
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob.



Well you can certainly try using it. It won't do any damage. But your install is not correct yet.


The next thing is to try a different PC for doing the install.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Guys, I've had no luck getting 1.33 to properly take without OKI boot loader problems...I've tried everything i can think of. Now, I have a D2 with no video, just audio. Wow, this kinda sucks to say the least. Serves me right for giving up on good ole 1.10  If someone could please send me a copy of 1.10 or 1.11 I would appreciate it. I can't seem to find my old copies of them. It's worth a shot to downgrade, just to see if I can get my video back. It can't be any worse than it is now.


Thanks guys.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17478321
> 
> 
> I've tried 2.08 and rear channel audio is present with 7.1. No handshake issues, so far but I do have loss of audio and audio dropouts with the PS3. No sign of this yet with the Oppo.



What sort of stuff are you playing on the PS3 when you get the audio dropouts?

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17478397
> 
> 
> What sort of stuff are you playing on the PS3 when you get the audio dropouts?
> 
> --Bob



Bob: I've only tried my streaming music through the PS3. I have not tried any discs, but I've edited my previous posting as I have discovered all kinds of additional issues.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Thanks for the feedback. If I get these speakers will report back what Mr. ARC thinks about them.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17474073
> 
> 
> I can't imagine why any speaker would sound worse when using a well set up Room EQ system unless the Measurements were faulty to begin with -- garbage in, garbage out.
> 
> 
> Some speakers are so directional in the high frequencies that ARC can't get useful Measurements up there. In which case it is best not to ask ARC to attempt correction too high. This is one reason the default Max EQ Frequency setting in ARC is as low as 5KHz.
> 
> 
> If you are using Full Range LF/RF speakers and no subwoofer, ARC will still apply a roll off below 25Hz. This is intentional as MOST such speaker designs -- even if they Measure as adequate down there -- are not really capable of producing those subsonic frequencies at higher volumes. So this is a design choice in ARC to help protect people.
> 
> 
> If you have one of the rare LF/RF speakers that can REALLY go deep into the subsonics at volume -- perhaps main speakers with attached satellite subs -- then they just MIGHT sound better way down there without ARC. If you have a good subwoofer directly connected to the Anthem, this is not an issue since the sub handles things down that low. There is no directionality (no "stereo imaging") way down there so there is no need to maintain Left/Right separation.
> 
> 
> And of course turning off ARC means you don't get its benefits at all the other, higher frequencies.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Showstopper in "Test" D2v V2.08(4nov09) Firmware: Frequent Audio Dropouts*


OK as reported above V2.08(4nov09) has a serious problem with audio dropouts. For some reason it is easier to make it happen with the PS3 than with the Oppo (both using HDMI LPCM). It may be because I'm using 30-bit video from the Oppo and the PS3 is sending 36-bit.


I can make the problem happen with the Oppo, but it is harder, and not as easy to get repeatable cases.


It looks like something in the latest changes may have broken LPCM input. I'm not sure if it affects Bitstream input.


I'll email to Nick.


V2.07j is a good fallback for folks with 5.1 speaker systems. For folks with 7.1 speaker systems the fallback is to go all the way back to "official" V2.07.


An email is on the way to Anthem.


-----------------------------------


I suspect that this, too, will turn out to have an easy fix. Expect a Release Candidate 3 tomorrow.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100* /forum/post/17478199
> 
> 
> I updated my D2v with the 2.08 patch and now have severe audio dropouts with HDMI from the PS3. The audio handshake takes forever. With Blu-Rays it's almost unlistenable as the audio crackles in and out when the volume increases. With SACDs after a long crackling handshake, the audio comes in fine for a while, then suddenly goes silent and stays silent. I tried it with both 7.1 and 5.1 with same results. I didn't reload ARC after the install. The dig coax from the cable works fine. Is it possible that the install was bad ? I hope I didn't mess up the dsp board. I think I will go back to 2.07 and hope it works .



No you didn't mess up your DSP board -- it is just a firmware bug.


If you have a 5.1 speaker system you should try V2.07j. If you have a 7.1 speaker system, then yes you should roll back to V2.07.


This bug will probably be easy to fix. I expect we'll see a V2.08 Release Candidate 3 tomorrow.


So you might also just wait to see if that comes out that fast.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks reporting the audio dropouts using "test" V2.08(4nov09), it appears that all reports are from folks using LPCM audio input.


Is anybody getting these audio dropouts using Bitstream audio input?


Is anybody getting these audio dropouts using something other than HDMI input? If so, what? A CD player connected over Optical cable would be sending 2.0 LPCM 44.1 KHz for example, but a DVD player connected the same way would be sending Dolby Digital.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

TrueHD bitstream from the Oppo appears to be working without audio dropouts.


So the problem may indeed be limited to just LPCM audio.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/17478383
> 
> 
> Guys, I've had no luck getting 1.33 to properly take without OKI boot loader problems...I've tried everything i can think of. Now, I have a D2 with no video, just audio. Wow, this kinda sucks to say the least. Serves me right for giving up on good ole 1.10  If someone could please send me a copy of 1.10 or 1.11 I would appreciate it. I can't seem to find my old copies of them. It's worth a shot to downgrade, just to see if I can get my video back. It can't be any worse than it is now.
> 
> 
> Thanks guys.



I'm sorry, I can't help you with that. But Anthem tech support keeps archives of prior releases.


I suspect the problem may be with the serial connection from your Windows PC. You've probably installed Windows updates since you last did a firmware install. There may be a new serial driver version you need to get to keep it compatible.


There is another procedure Anthem can walk you through that resets things even when Flash Eraser doesn't do the trick. It involves taking the top off the unit and connecting two jumpers on one of the boards. But if Flash Eraser said it completed normally, that's probably not your problem.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17479103
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, I can't help you with that. But Anthem tech support keeps archives of prior releases.
> 
> 
> I suspect the problem may be with the serial connection from your Windows PC. You've probably installed Windows updates since you last did a firmware install. There may be a new serial driver version you need to get to keep it compatible.
> 
> 
> There is another procedure Anthem can walk you through that resets things even when Flash Eraser doesn't do the trick. It involves taking the top off the unit and connecting two jumpers on one of the boards. But if Flash Eraser said it completed normally, that's probably not your problem.
> 
> --Bob



I'm hoping your right on the serial port or driver issue. But would I have been able to use the flash eraser just fine, and get thru 90% of the fw upgrade process if the driver was no good? I think not, right?


I'll call Anthem in the morning. Thanks again Bob, get some rest, you deserve it!


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17478715
> 
> 
> For folks reporting the audio dropouts using "test" V2.08(4nov09), it appears that all reports are from folks using LPCM audio input.
> 
> 
> Is anybody getting these audio dropouts using Bitstream audio input?
> 
> 
> Is anybody getting these audio dropouts using something other than HDMI input? If so, what? A CD player connected over Optical cable would be sending 2.0 LPCM 44.1 KHz for example, but a DVD player connected the same way would be sending Dolby Digital.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


My PS3 is set for LPCM output and is resulting in audio dropouts. My Wadia iTransport and CD through digital coax is also PCM and both result in dropouts. I tried optical with my CD player and get dropouts as well. My CD player seems to play fine through XLR (analog DSP), although I did have one incidence of the audio not kicking in when I switched sources initially. No audio dropouts present during playback. My satellite receiver is using optical and I have had no dropouts with it so far. In using the Oppo with a redbood disk and SACD through HDMI, I have not experienced any dropouts. My Oppo's audio output is set to bitstream. I have tried it with LPCM output and have not experienced and dropouts with it either. All in all, 2.08 seems to work great with the Oppo and my Bell Satellite receiver, but creates issues with PCM through other sources.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17478715
> 
> 
> For folks reporting the audio dropouts using "test" V2.08(4nov09), it appears that all reports are from folks using LPCM audio input.
> 
> 
> Is anybody getting these audio dropouts using Bitstream audio input?
> 
> 
> Is anybody getting these audio dropouts using something other than HDMI input? If so, what? A CD player connected over Optical cable would be sending 2.0 LPCM 44.1 KHz for example, but a DVD player connected the same way would be sending Dolby Digital.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


I ran several discs (one with Dolby TrueHD, one with uncompressed PCM)through my PS3 which outputs 7.1 LPCM. I played them over a 20 minute period and didn't experience any audio dropouts. I bitstream from the Oppo and had no issues there.


Regards,


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17478397
> 
> 
> What sort of stuff are you playing on the PS3 when you get the audio dropouts?
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17477950
> 
> 
> John:
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if I'm understanding what you are saying. With a 7.1 setup are the rear channels still not working with 2.08?



Yes, rear channels now work using PLIIx with 5.1 sources. Of course this was with 2.08, not 2.08(nov.4)May try this today if a new version doesn't beat me home.

John


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17479103
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, I can't help you with that. But Anthem tech support keeps archives of prior releases.
> 
> 
> I suspect the problem may be with the serial connection from your Windows PC. You've probably installed Windows updates since you last did a firmware install. There may be a new serial driver version you need to get to keep it compatible.
> 
> 
> There is another procedure Anthem can walk you through that resets things even when Flash Eraser doesn't do the trick. It involves taking the top off the unit and connecting two jumpers on one of the boards. But if Flash Eraser said it completed normally, that's probably not your problem.
> 
> --Bob



Aright, since I know you're all waiting with bated breath to see how this saga ends...I have now tried 3 different PC's, all with native serial ports, all using COM1 or COM2, and the connections are fine everytime. This is NOT a serial connection issue. The symptoms are exactly the same everytime with all 3 PC's...including one that has a brand new virgin build of XP SP3. I can use the flash eraser just fine everytime, but when I try to lay down the 1.33 firmware to the D2, it fails at the end of the process after succesfully loading tons of other stuff. Everytime the failure is OKI Boot Loader failed to connect.


I have a call into Anthem Tech Support and am waiting to hear back. In the meantime, does anyone have a 1.10 or 1.11 image from the old days that I could please try??? Someone has to have it. I'd like to try that as a last ditch effort to save this thing.


Thanks.


----------



## vengazor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17474251
> 
> *New "Test" D2v / AVM 50v Firmware V2.08 (pre-release) Now Up on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> Finally, it appears that in some cases there may be a video color quality problem. It is subtle and may be related to specific combinations of settings -- such as my case where I need Studio RGB output for my display. It is highly likely that most people wouldn't even notice it. But Nick tells me they are on that case as well. So if they find it and squash it, there may yet be an ADDITIONAL, albeit subtle, image quality improvement yet to come!
> 
> 
> ETA: For this last, video item, with the Oppo BDP-83 you can set "30-bit (Dithered)" HDMI video output and you will not see this problem. I don't know of an equivalent workaround for video from the PS3 as yet.
> 
> --Bob



I had this problem with my denon 3800bdci player, where only rgb would work, the colors were all messed up w/ YCbCr. The fix for me was turning OFF deep color support, which may be similar to the Oppo dithering option. YCbCr output now works fine and it looks better than RGB.


Is there even much material that would require deep color implementation?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick tells me they think the audio dropout problem in "test" V2.08(4nov09) is limited to LPCM input. They believe they know just what caused it and are correcting that now.


So I think the odds are good we'll see a 3rd version of V2.08 today.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17480891
> 
> 
> I had this problem with my denon 3800bdci player, where only rgb would work, the colors were all messed up w/ YCbCr. The fix for me was turning OFF deep color support, which may be similar to the Oppo dithering option. YCbCr output now works fine and it looks better than RGB.
> 
> 
> Is there even much material that would require deep color implementation?



The color issue I'm talking about is much more subtle than that. Most people in most situations would never notice it.


The content coming off disc (whether SD-DVD or Blu-Ray) is all 8 bits per component (24 bits per pixel). In theory, video processing in the player could produce rounding bits beyond 8 which might be good to pass along to the next device. But be aware that many so called Deep Color source devices don't really *USE* Deep Color. Oh they send out 30 or 36 bits per pixel, but the extra bits are just tacked on as padding zeroes. Also many so called Deep Color displays just discard such extra bits on input. There's a lot of marketing hype going on here.


The D2v and AVM 50v will accept up to 12 bits per component (36 bits per pixel) and have a 12 bit video processing path through to the output. So they TRULY implement Deep Color in and out for suitable devices on either side.


This means if a Source tacks on padding bits and puts garbage there instead of zeroes, the D2v and AVM 50v will actually see that garbage as real data. Garbage in, garbage out of course. Other receivers or displays wouldn't see the garbage because they are merely discarding the extra bits instead of treating them as real. So setting the source back to 24 bits may keep it from putting out garbage.

--Bob


----------



## ibg5

Bob, I have correctly understood, what Antnem have changed it only for D2v? And did nothing for D2?

You have a reference to this program?


Bob, after your recommendations I have faced "rather interesting problem".

I will result info in full volume that still somebody from users D2 could check up it, considering, that at you already is not present D2.

You can transfer it in technical support.

Components:

SAT: Samsung DSB-B350V;

PDP: Pioneer PDP-6090H;

DVD: Pioneer DV-868 AVi

HDMI-cabel Class 2.

SAT it is connected on a component. DVD it is connected on HDMI

I have made all according to your recommendation:



> Quote:
> You can use frame lock with Blu-ray players by setting the Blu-ray player to output 1080p/24 when playing film-based Blu-ray discs and to output 1080p/60 otherwise. Any decent Blu-ray player will have an Automatic setting that does this. Then set a Video Output Configuration in the D2 to 1080p/24 output. NOTE: You will also need a Video Output Configuration in the D2 for 1080p/60 output to use with other Sources.
> 
> 
> Finally set your Source definition for the Blu-ray input to use the 1080p/24 Video Output configuration and, in Video Source Adjust > Output, set Frame Lock = AUTO. When the player sends 1080p/24 to the D2 (for film-based Blu-Ray discs), the D2 will output 1080p/24 and that will work just fine. When the player sends 1080p/60 to the D2 (for everything else), Frame Lock will switch the D2 to output 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> Using Frame Lock in this fashion will make the HDMI handshake run a bit more slowly. The alternative is to turn Frame Lock OFF and manually switch between your two Video Output Configurations -- either using the shortcut under the Mode button on the remote or by setting up two separate Source definitions in the D2 -- both taking input from the Blu-ray player -- with one using the 1080p/60 Video Output Configuration and the other using the 1080p/24 Video Output configuration.



Sreen with video options (1.JPG).

I see screen (2.JPG).

Screen the such (3.JPG).

If after that to switch off D2 after inclusion the sreen will be as 2.JPG. I.e. the condition of mode Frame Lock does not remain, in spite of the fact that Frame Lock = Auto.

If after that to include DVD 480i60 (mode Frame Lock also, as well as for SAT) after long flashes the picture can appear (5.jpg), and can - and is not present (4.jpg).


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/17480737
> 
> 
> ........ In the meantime, does anyone have a 1.10 or 1.11 image from the old days that I could please try??? Someone has to have it. I'd like to try that as a last ditch effort to save this thing.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



ManWithAPlan,


I do happen to have a copy in my PC. If you'd PM me, I'll be happy to send you a copy.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ibg5* /forum/post/17481468
> 
> 
> Bob, I have correctly understood, what Antnem have changed it only for D2v? And did nothing for D2?
> 
> You have a reference to this program?
> 
> 
> Bob, after your recommendations I have faced "rather interesting problem".
> 
> I will result info in full volume that still somebody from users D2 could check up it, considering, that at you already is not present D2.
> 
> You can transfer it in technical support.
> 
> Components:
> 
> SAT: Samsung DSB-B350V;
> 
> PDP: Pioneer PDP-6090H;
> 
> DVD: Pioneer DV-868 AVi
> 
> HDMI-cabel Class 2.
> 
> SAT it is connected on a component. DVD it is connected on HDMI
> 
> I have made all according to your recommendation:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sreen with video options (1.JPG).
> 
> I see screen (2.JPG).
> 
> Screen the such (3.JPG).
> 
> If after that to switch off D2 after inclusion the sreen will be as 2.JPG. I.e. the condition of mode Frame Lock does not remain, in spite of the fact that Frame Lock = Auto.
> 
> If after that to include DVD 480i60 (the mode also, as well as for SAT) after long flashes the picture can appear, and can - and is not present. But if after long flashes suddenly to switch with DVD on SAT there we will see:



I do not understand what you are asking.


Frame Lock = AUTO will only turn on Frame Lock if it can be made to work. That's why there is no "ON" option. Sometimes Frame Lock makes no sense.


You have a complicated situation because you are using a PAL display (normally /50) even though you have your video output set to /60. You are apparently playing a mix of /50 and /60 content.


I'm not sure if you are trying to get /24 to happen (which makes no sense for /50 input or /50 display output) or are trying to do /50 to /60 conversion or /60 to /50 conversion.


Perhaps someone else here who is using a PAL setup can help you.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/17481823
> 
> 
> ManWithAPlan,
> 
> 
> I do happen to have a copy in my PC. If you'd PM me, I'll be happy to send you a copy.
> 
> 
> Ben



Ben, just PM'd ya...you are a gentleman and a scholar, thank you! However, I'm hoping that I don't need them in the end...here's why...


After several attempts to upgrade to no avail, each time blowing away the config first with Reload Factory Defaults as Bob's instructions have always laid out, I decided to try 1 last time without actually reverting to factory defaults. In other words, I re-uploaded my old settings from the 1.10 days into the D2. At that point, again, still no video at all in Zone 1, but all my settings were there and I could listen to any source properly, etc. Here's the timeline of events:


1. I'm sitting on a "fake", quasi-install of what the D2 reports is 1.33, but according to the failed prior upgrade attempts at the OKI boot loader part and in agreement with Bob, is really a bastardized incomplete firmware that will not be good for much of anything.


2. I upload my old saved settings just for kicks and they take perfectly, just like they always have. However, still no video in Zone 1, only audio. Incidentally, I have video in Zone 3 just fine, and can't test Zone 2 at all (TV is shot in there right now), though I suspect it would have been fine also.


So, I decide that 8 or 9 failed attempts is not quite enough, that I wanna try again in some way to get through the whole upgrade to 1.33 succesfully, but that realistically, i'm running out of possibilities that will work. So, I wanna try again, but this time do something different to change a variable or two.


So...


3. Instead of proceeding to blow away the config first like I always have followed with "Reload factory defaults" before attempting an upgrade, this time I just proceed with the 1.33 installer. Guess what? This time I get thru the whole upgrade process, I see all kinds of new update steps in the process for things like video processor, for OSD flash as well, etc. The verification processes succeed, everything. At the end, I get the green checkmark and the message that the UPGRADE WAS SUCCESFUL!! Woohoooo! I'm thinking holy cow, this is great, let's take a victory lap.


4. I disconnect my serial cable, and turn off/on the D2, allowing about 2 minutes in between, and I try to power on and watch something. No dice, although I have 2channel CD input sound source just fine.


5. I recall that you're supposed to reload factory defaults after the upgrade too, so I do that, and power off and on again. I try again and still no video, but simple analog connected audio sources work fine.


6. I decide that uploading my old settings may be necessary, so I re-upload my old settings from file, this time on top of the succesfully upgraded 1.33. I retest, and no video in Zone 1 still. Incidentally, now that I have my old settings in there, I notice that HDMI sourced audio plays fine in Zone 1, I just never get the accompanying video for each of these sources (DVD player connected via HDMI, BluRay connected via HDMI, Tivo S3 connected via HDMI, etc.)


7. So, I'm better off than I was, I think, but still stuck with no video in Zone 1. I did all of this upgrade work with no HDMI sources connected at all, just as a reminder. I only plugged the HDMI sources and output back in once all serial cable work was done. Still no video in Zone 1.


Still waiting for Nick to call me back, it appears there is still work to be done here.


That's it for now, thoughts?


-Brian


----------



## ibg5

........On Display D2 we thus see:

If after long blinkings in DVD 480i60 suddenly to switch on SAT, that, about, a miracle! Instead of 2.JPG suddenly we see 6.JPG.

I.e. somehow, being activated on input SAT1, Frame Lock after deenergizing and subsequent inclusion D2 independently does not work, and works after not always successful attempts to join on other input (DVD1).


Bob, it is simple at me the channel weak and I loaded in parts.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ibg5* /forum/post/17482083
> 
> 
> ........On Display D2 we thus see 7.jpg
> 
> If after long blinkings in DVD 480i60 suddenly to switch on SAT, that, about, a miracle! Instead of 2.JPG suddenly we see 6.JPG.
> 
> I.e. somehow, being activated on input SAT1, Frame Lock after deenergizing and subsequent inclusion D2 independently does not work, and works after not always successful attempts to join on other input (DVD1).



Changing inputs forces a new signal detection and handshake. Apparently that is making things work better for you.


You should ask Anthem tech support if your particular D2 might be a good candidate to try the "test" V1.47f firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/17482031
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> 7. So, I'm better off than I was, I think, but still stuck with no video in Zone 1. I did all of this upgrade work with no HDMI sources connected at all, just as a reminder. I only plugged the HDMI sources and output back in once all serial cable work was done. Still no video in Zone 1.
> 
> 
> Still waiting for Nick to call me back, it appears there is still work to be done here.
> 
> 
> That's it for now, thoughts?
> 
> 
> -Brian



Brian,

Take a step back and make sure you haven't done something silly here like use the wrong HDMI sockets or having your Zone 1 display set to use the wrong input socket.


------------------------------------------------


Now that you've got firmware V1.33 installed, another step might be to try to RE-install it the normal way -- i.e., doing a Reload Factory Defaults first.

--Bob


[EDIT: Corrected "HDMI V1.3" typo to "firmware V1.33"]


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New NEW *NEW* "Test" D2v / AVM 50v V2.08(5nov09) Firmware Now on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page!*


This version is supposed to fix the audio dropouts glitch for LPCM input by removing a late change that apparently went a bit too far.


The release notes for changes since the current "official" V2.07 firmware now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08 pre-release:
> 
> 
> 1. In a previous 2.07 beta, rear output broke with HD 5.1 input matrixed out to 7.1. This is fixed.
> 
> 
> 4 Nov 09 version: Fixes 7.1 to 5.1 downmix problem introduced in v2.07k
> 
> 
> 5 Nov 09 version: Undid a change in the previous version that reduced noise when switching audio format because it also made PCM detection unstable.
> 
> 
> There are some outstanding issues which will be addressed in v2.08 beta versions.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07j beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed 7.1 downmix to 5.1.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed DTS-MA decoding when 5.1 or more speakers are used.
> 
> 
> 3. Fixed audio dropout when SPDIF source changes from DTS/Dolby to PCM.
> 
> 
> Known issue: PCM sources with no L/R content are muted even though there is content in other channels.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07i beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Added reset for audio DSP crash that somtimes occurred when changing source and resulted in need for AC reboot.
> 
> 
> 2. Improved HDMI switching.
> 
> 
> Known issue: Preset surround mode does not take effect when a stereo source is selected (mode can still be selected manually).
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07g beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for audio loss when some advanced bass management settings were changed manually.
> 
> 
> 2. Small change to DTS Master Audio display since unabbreviated display is required.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Faster HDMI lock when switching sources.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07e beta:
> 
> 
> 1. More changes to address video switching, audio dropouts, and audio glitches.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. More changes to video code base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> v2.07b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Video processor code base updates.
> 
> 
> 2. Audio DSP code base update.
> 
> 
> 3. Fix for Sony as second monitor.



All the cautions and notes in my posts for yesterday's "test" releases still apply.


"Test" firmware V2.08(5nov09) now becomes the new "release candidate" for V2.08. If things go well, I would expect V2.08 to become official in the next few days.

--Bob


----------



## ibg5

Bob, a problem, really, strange.

I, unfortunately, long enough spread message contents. - at me restriction on speed and quality of connection.

I address to users with the request to check up available facts. And to you, Bob, with the request to transfer the information in technical support.

You are closer to it....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ibg5* /forum/post/17482250
> 
> 
> Bob, a problem, really, strange.
> 
> I, unfortunately, long enough spread message contents. - at me restriction on speed and quality of connection.
> 
> I address to users with the request to check up available facts. And to you, Bob, with the request to transfer the information in technical support.
> 
> You are closer to it....



That's one thing I can't help you with. I can't get between Anthem tech support and a customer.


Just send them an email. Try to keep it simple: You are having a problem making Frame Lock work between /50 and /60 in your PAL setup and changing inputs to something else and back seems to fix it, so you know it CAN work. It just isn't working reliably.


How should you set it up? And would it be worth trying the V1.47f firmware on your particular D2 to see if it helps?


You can send them a link to your post here with the screen shots as well so you don't have to email those again.

--Bob


----------



## ibg5

Thanks, Bob!


----------



## bluemark81

It rocks! Haven't discovered any issues yet. Bring on Dolby Volume!


----------



## lk100

My preliminary take on (05Nov)2.08: All is well!


----------



## jayray

Took 3 tires to install 2.08(nov.5) but 3rd try was a charm. Haven't tested yet but music in pcm played beautifully. Nice to have an allegedly stable version.









John


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17482151
> 
> 
> Brian,
> 
> Take a step back and make sure you haven't done something silly here like use the wrong HDMI sockets or having your Zone 1 display set to use the wrong input socket.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now that you've got HDMI V1.3 installed, another step might be to try to RE-install it the normal way -- i.e., doing a Reload Factory Defaults first.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, after talking to Anthem a bit, and strategizing on removing the unit to perform a manual videoboard "shorting", I decided to try re-seating all hdmi cables, and voila! She came back from the dead, and the picture is as beautiful as ever! The Tivo S3 still has terrible handshaking when in "Native" mode, but with my current config, I have to use HDMI for this component, due to lack of any additional optical audio inputs (I've used them all up!). Otherwise I certainly would have just gone component and optical audio from the Tivo...i was hoping 1.33 would have better handshaking for this, but doesn't seem better, and may actually be worse. Oh well, overall i'm quite happy!


So, 24 hours later, I'm back in business! I am leaving well enough alone now on 1.33 for a bit. They tell me that 1.47f is not a good match for my ancient D2, due to older video board, etc. I'll stay away from it 


Thanks Bob for all your help and to all for putting up with my saga here, my hope is that someone out there might benefit from what I just went thru and documented.


Cheers!


----------



## vengazor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17482944
> 
> 
> It rocks! Haven't discovered any issues yet. Bring on Dolby Volume!



Any Idea on when this 2.08 can be an official release?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17483269
> 
> 
> Any Idea on when this 2.08 can be an official release?



I'm not sure, but I don't expect it will take long if there are no reported issues. So far, it's a winner. I suspect when they do, they will likely add Dolby Volume. Bob would likely be able to give a better estimate to when all this may take place.


----------



## Texas steve

So Bob, IF I did not go to K on my D2v and still have J what is new from J to 2.08?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17482230
> 
> *New NEW *NEW* "Test" D2v / AVM 50v V2.08(5nov09) Firmware Now on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> This version is supposed to fix the audio dropouts glitch for LPCM input by removing a late change that apparently went a bit too far.
> 
> 
> The release notes for changes since the current "official" V2.07 firmware now read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the cautions and notes in my posts for yesterday's "test" releases still apply.
> 
> 
> "Test" firmware V2.08(5nov09) now becomes the new "release candidate" for V2.08. If things go well, I would expect V2.08 to become official in the next few days.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17483366
> 
> 
> So Bob, IF I did not go to K on my D2v and still have J what is new from J to 2.08?



It's in the release notes above.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/17483223
> 
> 
> Bob, after talking to Anthem a bit, and strategizing on removing the unit to perform a manual videoboard "shorting", I decided to try re-seating all hdmi cables, and voila! She came back from the dead, and the picture is as beautiful as ever! The Tivo S3 still has terrible handshaking when in "Native" mode, but with my current config, I have to use HDMI for this component, due to lack of any additional optical audio inputs (I've used them all up!). Otherwise I certainly would have just gone component and optical audio from the Tivo...i was hoping 1.33 would have better handshaking for this, but doesn't seem better, and may actually be worse. Oh well, overall i'm quite happy!
> 
> 
> So, 24 hours later, I'm back in business! I am leaving well enough alone now on 1.33 for a bit. They tell me that 1.47f is not a good match for my ancient D2, due to older video board, etc. I'll stay away from it
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob for all your help and to all for putting up with my saga here, my hope is that someone out there might benefit from what I just went thru and documented.
> 
> 
> Cheers!



I'm glad you finally got it back in business.


With any luck Anthem will finish the HDMI port in V1.47f so you can try that one on your older D2. We've had some good reports here from various folks regarding the new HDMI code in V1.47f.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've done some pretty extensive LPCM audio testing with V2.08(5nov09) and the latest change does appear to fix the LPCM audio dropouts we found yesterday -- and without breaking anything new!


That's the good news.


However, there is still an LPCM dropout anomaly that I just detailed in an email to Anthem.


This one has likely been in there for quite some time -- it was wrapped up in the incorrect muting bug for HDMI LPCM input whenever there was no audio content on either LF or RF (now fixed).


The bug ONLY happens with LPCM input.


The bug appears to happen only with 48KHz LPCM input (as from LPCM input of a traditional DD or DTS track).


Furthermore, the bug appears to happen only when JUST ONE SPEAKER is active with audio at a time. As you can imagine this almost never happens in real content -- but it happens with test tracks.


And finally, it appears to happen much more frequently if that active speaker happens to be the LF speaker.


I've detailed for Anthem how to reproduce the bug. It is possible they still have their noise rejection test for LPCM cranked up just a hair too high -- at least for 48KHz LPCM input.


But again, this bug has been in there for quite some time, so it may turn out that it is not considered a showstopper for crowning V2.08 as "official" -- particularly since it wont affect real audio tracks. Note that if you have a player decode a mono audio track to LPCM it will send out BOTH LF and RF with identical content. So LPCM input of mono tracks won't exhibit this problem.


The other audio bug fixes that appeared in this spate of "test" V2.08 releases are still working. So we didn't lose anything due to this most recent fix.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17483269
> 
> 
> Any Idea on when this 2.08 can be an official release?



My guess would be Monday, unless they decide they need to take one more pass at refining the LPCM stuff.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17483158
> 
> 
> Took 3 tires to install 2.08(nov.5) but 3rd try was a charm. Haven't tested yet but music in pcm played beautifully. Nice to have an allegedly stable version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Please double check that this version has NOT re-broken the up-mix of 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output. I can't test that in my setup.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17483750
> 
> 
> Please double check that this version has NOT re-broken the up-mix of 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output. I can't test that in my setup.
> 
> --Bob



With my 7.1 setup, all appears to be fine mixing to the rear channels from a 5.1 source.


However, if anyone has The Dark Knight on blu-ray, can you try the beginning of the disk? Right after the Warner Brothers credit, there is a Legendary Pictures logo followed by a DC comics credit. I think these latter two are supposed to have audio associated with them, but I only seem to get very faint audio, barely noticeable unless turned way up. Anyone else get this? Other than that, I have not noticed any oddities.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17483750
> 
> 
> Please double check that this version has NOT re-broken the up-mix of 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output. I can't test that in my setup.
> 
> --Bob



Will try it tomorrow night. Who knows, there may be another version before that









John


----------



## muad'dib

Hello..


After a few hours finally got my D2V alive again...










It all started when I tried to do this newest beta firmware within windows 7 ultimate 64bit, via keyspan usb/serial..


I have had no issues in past, so thought it would go smooth (since there was no warning that you will have to send unit back to anthem).


Anyway, all looked good, until the video section was being updated.. it would flash to about 65%, then restart again and again..


When it failed.. I remember seeing this issue in past with vista, but that was fixed since then..


so..


Decided to install from Virtual Xp mode..


Again all looked good until almost same spot, then, the update froze..










Tried 3 more times.. no luck..



Tried my copy of flash erase, and it came back with error..


















I then checked to see if there was a newer flash eraser, and sure enough on the beta site, there was..


All erased fine now...










Tried to reinstall 1.07 official in virtual xp mode, and all good.


then, decided to try newest beta (nov.5 beta) again and it finally worked...










So, DO NOT INSTALL IN WINDOWS 7 64BIT... Use VIRTUAL XP.....



Thought I would share my 2 cents and pain...












On a side note...



I decided to re-upload my ARC settings (since my main settings were erased from flash eraser..).


All values looked like before (which was good), bit I noticed that the master output level was still at 0dB, as when using are before, it was 3dB..


Why this change? I thought arc used that value from start and just reused it for the upload...


Thanks..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If you mean "Test Level", ARC doesn't Upload that at all. The Flash Erase zeroed it and so that's how it remained.


What you Uploaded will work fine, but to keep things simple for future ARC runs, go ahead and put in your old value now.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17484935
> 
> 
> If you mean "Test Level", ARC doesn't Upload that at all. The Flash Erase zeroed it and so that's how it remained.
> 
> 
> What you Uploaded will work fine, but to keep things simple for future ARC runs, go ahead and put in your old value now.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob..










Does the Test Level actually do anything in real world listening? or is it just used for test tones...


Thanks again.. Just glad to have my D2V working again after the scare..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick tells me that it is likely they will make the current V2.08 "official" quite soon to get out its important bug fixes. It will become the version installed in new units.


Several pending, less crucial bug fixes will be rolled into a "test" release in about a week. Then the Dolby Volume stuff.


---------------------------------


Nick also tells me that they now believe V2.08 has a production quality implementation of true /24 reverse telecine for film-based 1080i content!


NOTE: This is only useful if your display accepts 1080p/24 and "does the right thing" with it.


This means you can use it to get /24 from HDTV movies!


To use it, set up a Video Output Configuration with 1080p/24 output.


Then set up a Source definition for your 1080i HDTV source using that configuration. Finally, while viewing that Source, bring up Video Source Adjust > Output and set Frame Lock to Auto.


The D2v will analyze the 1080i/60 HDTV input stream and if it finds the /24 movie cadence then 1080p/24 output will be generated.


Otherwise the /60 input stream will cause 1080p/60 output.


The HDMI handshake will take longer while this is being decided.


That means you will likely want an alternate Source definition with Frame Lock OFF, and using a 1080p/60 Video Output Configuration you can use instead for normal channel surfing.


480i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion is still not quite ready for prime time.


They are not going to publish this feature until the 480i version is also up to snuff.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/17484953
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does the Test Level actually do anything in real world listening? or is it just used for test tones...
> 
> 
> Thanks again.. Just glad to have my D2V working again after the scare..



The combination of Test Level and the Uploaded volume trims sets the output level corresponding to -10dB on the Main Volume.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/17480737
> 
> 
> Aright, since I know you're all waiting with bated breath to see how this saga ends...I have now tried 3 different PC's, all with native serial ports, all using COM1 or COM2, and the connections are fine everytime. This is NOT a serial connection issue. The symptoms are exactly the same everytime with all 3 PC's...including one that has a brand new virgin build of XP SP3. I can use the flash eraser just fine everytime, but when I try to lay down the 1.33 firmware to the D2, it fails at the end of the process after succesfully loading tons of other stuff. Everytime the failure is OKI Boot Loader failed to connect.
> 
> 
> I have a call into Anthem Tech Support and am waiting to hear back. In the meantime, does anyone have a 1.10 or 1.11 image from the old days that I could please try??? Someone has to have it. I'd like to try that as a last ditch effort to save this thing.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



ManWithAPlan,


Last week I posted here a similar problem except that it was with the 50v. I was attempting to upload 2.07j version and it quit towards the end with the "Video processor Reset failed!" message. I flashed erased multiple times, tried different USB ports on my laptop and simply couldn't get passed this error. I had no video or audio via HDMI. The only audio I got was via optical. So, I've had no TV for about 5 days and its really weird.


Anyways, I received new video board today and installed it fine (though I hated the plastic spacers which i ended up destroying due to my lack of experience using needle nose pliers. They seemed redundant anyways).


So now I have a mainboard programmed with v2.07j with a new video board programmed with v2.07. I'm really scared to upgrade to v2.07 or any of the betas to synchronize the firmware versions within the processor.


Not sure what to do as i do not want to brick my processor again. I agree with you that the problem is not with the serial port driver or connection. Since you tried it with 3 different PC's with the same failed results, this leads me to believe the issue might hardware related within the processor.


At least for now, I have video and audio via HDMI from the new video board but I have this sinking feeling that all is not well. Maybe, I'll try again when v2.08 become official and proven stable.


Regards,

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The bug still exists in "test" V2.08(5nov09) where the audio Mode Preset sometimes doesn't get correctly executed for 2.0 input. This is most likely to happen if the Mode Preset is PLIIx-Movie or Music. I've never seen it happen with the Anthem Logic modes.


I had it happen this evening shifting to a DD2.0 bonus feature on "Howard's End" Blu-Ray on the Oppo -- set to HDMI LPCM output. The audio mode correctly shifted to 2.0+PLIIx Movie but the speaker output was only 2.1 instead of 5.1. As before, manually shifting to a different audio mode and back cured it.


This may end up being the most significant audio processing bug left unfixed if V2.08 becomes "official" as is. Anthem is well aware of it, and they are working on the fix. But I doubt they'll hold V2.08 waiting for this fix.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17484176
> 
> 
> 
> However, if anyone has The Dark Knight on blu-ray, can you try the beginning of the disk? Right after the Warner Brothers credit, there is a Legendary Pictures logo followed by a DC comics credit. I think these latter two are supposed to have audio associated with them, but I only seem to get very faint audio, barely noticeable unless turned way up. Anyone else get this? Other than that, I have not noticed any oddities.



Greetings,


That opening montage of the Dark Knight has very little sound so you're hearing it correctly.



Regards,


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17485562
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> That opening montage of the Dark Knight has very little sound so you're hearing it correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Thanks!


----------



## mlbrand

Bob,


I'm going to try installing ARC in my D2 again, as I finally picked up a different laptop I think will work. I had problems with ARC freezing up the D2 after install earlier this year, and since then have just been living without ARC. At one time I thought this might be a hardware problem, however v1.33 software has been working flawlessly on my D2 for many months now. I think it may have been the anti-virus software on my work laptop that I couldn't shut off, though it would let me install the main system software, etc., and ARC did work for a little while. At any rate, I'm ready to try again. I have a different laptop with Windows XP and a serial port, so I'm good to go there.



Here's my question, *what versions of main operating software and ARC software should I try to install?* BTW, I no doubt have one of the earlier D2 builds, as I bought it early in the first year they were released.


Thanks,


Mike


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/17482031
> 
> 
> Ben, ...you are a gentleman and a scholar, thank you! ............



Brian,


Gentleman - you're welcome.


Scholar ?










Glad your D2 is now working fine with v1.33.


Ben


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/17486134
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I'm going to try installing ARC in my D2 again, as I finally picked up a different laptop I think will work. I had problems with ARC freezing up the D2 after install earlier this year, and since then have just been living without ARC. At one time I thought this might be a hardware problem, however v1.33 software has been working flawlessly on my D2 for many months now. I think it may have been the anti-virus software on my work laptop that I couldn't shut off, though it would let me install the main system software, etc., and ARC did work for a little while. At any rate, I'm ready to try again. I have a different laptop with Windows XP and a serial port, so I'm good to go there.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my question, *what versions of main operating software and ARC software should I try to install?* BTW, I no doubt have one of the earlier D2 builds, as I bought it early in the first year they were released.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike, I also have one of the very first D2's produced. I just updated to 1.33 from the much older 1.10 and things look good software-wise after some initial craziness with the upgrade itself. I've been told yesterday to stay at 1.33 because the new Beta's, including the current 1.47f, are not geared for those of us with the older green video boards and old toroidal power supply, etc. So, I'm staying put for now.


Incidentally, I am not totally out of the woods. Prior to upgrading to 1.33, in the last few months we have problems when powering on the TV and the D2 where the HDMI video to the TV doesn't show up, ever, at all. The handshaking, no matter which input is active when I power up the D2, never happens properly to the TV on initial boot now. Now, if I power things down and back up in a certain order, which seems to not be consistent either, I can "trick" the display into appearing. This just started happening about 6 months ago under my 1.10 image that had been working perfectly up until then. I mistakenly thought that 1.33 would fix it. It has not, as of this morning, I am right back to having the HDMI signaling problem that popped up out of nowhere 6 months ago. I am starting to think my video board may have gone flaky. This is getting really frustrating because I travel often and my wife doesn't have the patience to deal with "the TV not working while you're away"  I'm just WAY more stubborn and willing to tinker to get things to work I guess.


Bob, would it make sense for me to change the Frame Lock for each source? I can't recall what the recommendation on that is. I've got to fix this last issue with HDMI signaling between D2 and TV as we approach the holidays.


My setup hasn't changed since March 2006, when I got my D2. The HDMI output connection goes from the D2 about 12 feet over toward the TV, where it plugs into a Meridian HDMI repeater, and then about 3 feet out of the repeater to my Sony Qualia 006 TV. The cabling is Kimber Kable HDMI. None of any of this has been modified since March 2006, it has just worked.


Thanks for any help anyone can provide.


-Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/17486294
> 
> 
> Brian,
> 
> 
> Gentleman - you're welcome.
> 
> 
> Scholar ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad your D2 is now working fine with v1.33.
> 
> 
> Ben



Sorry Ben, it's an old English (as in England) phrase that is basically a compliment in the highest order...I guess my high school teacher from the UK rubbed off on me a bit. I just googled it and apparently it was said amongst English aristocracy when someone...well..."did someone a solid" to use the parlance of our times 


So, umm, yeah, THANK YOU kind sir!


----------



## netroamer

Perhaps I missed a post or two, but I have not noticed any further reference about the DSP manufacturers' fixes being incorporated into v2.08xx of the D2v firmware release. Anyone have an info on this?


----------



## manutdsoc20

*Does anyone use a HTPC with an ASus Xonar slim with an AVM50V or D2v?*


My current HTPC specs:

P5Q Pro

E8500

4GB RAM

ATI 5770( latest drivers)

Asus Xonar Slim .1775 drivers and 1.1 firmware

Arcsot TMT3 Retail .160( Media Center Player version)

Media Browser

Win7 32Bit

Anthem AVM50V v2.08 dated Nov. 5th

Theil Audio 7.1 setup

_*My current issues are:*_


I have played through about 50 Blu Ray ISO's. When the previews and the Blu Ray Menu's are playing the AVM50V locks on to the Dobly digital signal or stereo pcm signal. As soon as I select play the movie it goes through the FBI warnings which Arcsoft shows Audio as none, when the movie starts most times the AVM50V will lock on onto the DTS Master Audio signal and all is good. The times the AVM50v doesn't lock on the DTS Master Audio signal I change the audio settings in Arcsoft's player from HDMI Pass Through to SPDIF Pass Through and the AVM50V will lock on to the DTS signal and then I switch back to HDMI pass through and the AVM50V will lock on to the DTS Master Audio signal and everything is perfect. Anytime the movie has Dobly True HD the AVM50 will not automatically lock on to the audio signal unless I repeat the steps of switching the Audio setting in the Arcsoft player.


_*Has anyone experienced my issue?*_ I can't really pinpoint if the problem is either the Arcsoft player software or problems with AVM50V locking on to the audio signal. I'm leaning towards the problem being the AVM50v's problem locking onto the bitstream signal becasue Arcsoft players information will show it is outputting DTS MAster Audio or Dolby True HD and I have no sound comes out my speakers and the AVM50V still shows stereo PCM until I make the changes in the audio setting of the ARcsoft player.


Thanks in advance for everyone's assistance.



cheeers Jason


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/17486444
> 
> 
> Sorry Ben, ........ apparently it was said amongst English aristocracy when someone...well..."did someone a solid" to use the parlance of our times



Oh, WOWWW...














Thanks. In that case, if you need any more files, just let me know, ok?


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17487033
> 
> 
> Perhaps I missed a post or two, but I have not noticed any further reference about the DSP manufacturers' fixes being incorporated into v2.08xx of the D2v firmware release. Anyone have an info on this?



The inappropriate muting bug for HDMI LPCM input when both LF and RF had no content is fixed in "test" V2.08(5nov09) so evidently Anthem got the firmware fix they needed for that.


The incorrect application of the Mode Preset that sometimes happens for 2.0 input is still there, so that fix is still pending. Reading the tea leaves, I think we'll have a fix for that in a week or so -- as a new "test" released based off of V2.08 after V2.08 becomes "official".


It's not clear that Anthem actually needed any change at all from the DSP vendor, but simply some support in the proper way to use the DSP as is. The DSP is just a specialized and very fast computing chip.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *manutdsoc20* /forum/post/17487050
> 
> *Does anyone use a HTPC with an ASus Xonar slim with an AVM50V or D2v?*
> 
> 
> My current HTPC specs:
> 
> P5Q Pro
> 
> E8500
> 
> 4GB RAM
> 
> ATI 5770( latest drivers)
> 
> Asus Xonar Slim .1775 drivers and 1.1 firmware
> 
> Arcsot TMT3 Retail .160( Media Center Player version)
> 
> Media Browser
> 
> Win7 32Bit
> 
> Anthem AVM50V v2.08 dated Nov. 5th
> 
> Theil Audio 7.1 setup
> 
> _*My current issues are:*_
> 
> 
> I have played through about 50 Blu Ray ISO's. When the previews and the Blu Ray Menu's are playing the AVM50V locks on to the Dobly digital signal or stereo pcm signal. As soon as I select play the movie it goes through the FBI warnings which Arcsoft shows Audio as none, when the movie starts most times the AVM50V will lock on onto the DTS Master Audio signal and all is good. The times the AVM50v doesn't lock on the DTS Master Audio signal I change the audio settings in Arcsoft's player from HDMI Pass Through to SPDIF Pass Through and the AVM50V will lock on to the DTS signal and then I switch back to HDMI pass through and the AVM50V will lock on to the DTS Master Audio signal and everything is perfect. Anytime the movie has Dobly True HD the AVM50 will not automatically lock on to the audio signal unless I repeat the steps of switching the Audio setting in the Arcsoft player.
> 
> 
> _*Has anyone experienced my issue?*_ I can't really pinpoint if the problem is either the Arcsoft player software or problems with AVM50V locking on to the audio signal. I'm leaning towards the problem being the AVM50v's problem locking onto the bitstream signal becasue Arcsoft players information will show it is outputting DTS MAster Audio or Dolby True HD and I have no sound comes out my speakers and the AVM50V still shows stereo PCM until I make the changes in the audio setting of the ARcsoft player.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for everyone's assistance.
> 
> 
> 
> cheeers Jason



If the Anthem doesn't display the expected new input audio format, then the problem is likely that the Arcsoft hasn't completed the HDMI handshake correctly. The handshake is driven by the source device. The info the Anthem needs to display the supposed incoming audio format is straightforward for the Anthem to process.


If instead, the Anthem is showing the expected input audio format, but there is still no audio, then that's likely a problem in the Anthem. The handshake has completed properly but the audio processor in the Anthem has not yet detected a valid input audio stream. There are ways the source can screw up the audio steam -- indeed it may even be muting it deliberately if it is not happy with copy protection -- but the Anthem could also be screwing up in this case.


The "test" V2.08 code has improved HDMI support in the Anthem that may make it easier for the Arcsoft to do what it needs to do.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/17486395
> 
> 
> Incidentally, I am not totally out of the woods. Prior to upgrading to 1.33, in the last few months we have problems when powering on the TV and the D2 where the HDMI video to the TV doesn't show up, ever, at all. The handshaking, no matter which input is active when I power up the D2, never happens properly to the TV on initial boot now. Now, if I power things down and back up in a certain order, which seems to not be consistent either, I can "trick" the display into appearing. This just started happening about 6 months ago under my 1.10 image that had been working perfectly up until then. I mistakenly thought that 1.33 would fix it. It has not, as of this morning, I am right back to having the HDMI signaling problem that popped up out of nowhere 6 months ago. I am starting to think my video board may have gone flaky. This is getting really frustrating because I travel often and my wife doesn't have the patience to deal with "the TV not working while you're away"  I'm just WAY more stubborn and willing to tinker to get things to work I guess.
> 
> 
> Bob, would it make sense for me to change the Frame Lock for each source? I can't recall what the recommendation on that is. I've got to fix this last issue with HDMI signaling between D2 and TV as we approach the holidays.
> 
> 
> My setup hasn't changed since March 2006, when I got my D2. The HDMI output connection goes from the D2 about 12 feet over toward the TV, where it plugs into a Meridian HDMI repeater, and then about 3 feet out of the repeater to my Sony Qualia 006 TV. The cabling is Kimber Kable HDMI. None of any of this has been modified since March 2006, it has just worked.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help anyone can provide.
> 
> 
> -Brian



If you got a firmware update for your TV, that could be the source of the problem, or your HDMI cables might have degraded -- for example the mechanical fit may not be as good due to unplugging and replugging.


Start by switching to 1080i output. If that seems to work reliably but 1080p remains a problem then you likely have a cabling problem. Since you just had an issue that was fixed by reseating the HDMI plugs, this is more likely.


Of course bypassing the HDMI repeater is something well worth trying. You can easily get a quality 15 foot HDMI cable these days -- Blue Jeans Cable or MonoPrice for example. Get HDMI cables labeled as HDMI V1.3, "High speed", or "For 1080p", or "Category 2", which all mean the same thing: That the cable has supposedly been built to the newest, strictest signal spec standards.


On power-up timing, the usual trick is to power up the HDMI devices in the reverse order: Display first, then Anthem, then the source. Far too many displays get started with the HDMI handshake before they are really booted up sufficiently to do it correctly.


Rather than power-cycling to cure this, try simply switching the Anthem to a different input and back. That will force a new handshake which may work better with everything now powered up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/17486134
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I'm going to try installing ARC in my D2 again, as I finally picked up a different laptop I think will work. I had problems with ARC freezing up the D2 after install earlier this year, and since then have just been living without ARC. At one time I thought this might be a hardware problem, however v1.33 software has been working flawlessly on my D2 for many months now. I think it may have been the anti-virus software on my work laptop that I couldn't shut off, though it would let me install the main system software, etc., and ARC did work for a little while. At any rate, I'm ready to try again. I have a different laptop with Windows XP and a serial port, so I'm good to go there.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my question, *what versions of main operating software and ARC software should I try to install?* BTW, I no doubt have one of the earlier D2 builds, as I bought it early in the first year they were released.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Mike



We've had reports here that some Windows software firewalls interfered with proper operation of ARC, so perhaps that was your problem.


Your new computer should be running XP, or Vista if you must. Do not expect Windows 7 to work with ARC yet.


The latest ARC version is V2.3. Please note, that installing ARC from scratch on a new computer is a tad more difficult these days, since Microsoft pushed out a Windows change in September that broke the ARC installer on your original ARC install CD. So you need to do things a little differently to get the ARC application installed on your computer. See this post for details:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1&post17274801 


------------------------------------------------


The current "official" firmware for the D2 is V1.33.


There is a "test" firmware version, V1.47f, on the password protected download page. It has improved HDMI code. However, at this point it only works on newer D2 production runs. If your D2 has a red video board (the top board viewed through the top ventilation slots) OR if your power supply does NOT have the big, donut-shaped transformer, then your D2 is good to go for V1.47f as it currently exists.


If you have a green or gray video board AND you have the toroidal power transformer then your D2 *MIGHT* be OK for V1.47f, but there's no easy way for you to tell. So play it safe and don't try V1.47f. Wait for a later version.

--Bob


----------



## Picasso Moon

I see v2.08 has now become the official release software.

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html


----------



## perioms

What`s wrong?

Everytime when I want to install D2v v2.08 (5nov09) I get the message "Firmware install failed! Please try again. Video processor reset failed:".

I am using Winxp with serial port connection to my new D2v (ver 2.07).

Please help me.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17488565
> 
> 
> What`s wrong?
> 
> Everytime when I want to install D2v v2.08 (5nov09) I get the message "Firmware install failed! Please try again. Video processor reset failed:".
> 
> I am using Winxp with serial port connection to my new D2v (ver 2.07).
> 
> Please help me.



perioms....This is the same EXACT error I was getting on my 50v. You can refer to my posts from last week on this vexing issue. Calls to Anthem didn't resolve the problem. I ended up receiving a new video board yesterday from Anthem which I installed yesterday. Still afraid to program it, though I'm tempted to upload the newest official FW v2.08. Currently, my motherboard is at v2.07j with the video board at v2.07 and I have this nagging feeling that all is not ok. At least, I'm getting video & audio again. I'm running Vista on my laptop via the Keyspan USB adapter.


If you have another computer, you may try to re-install after you flash erase the processor. You may even trying using a direct serial connection from the PC to the D2v. I hope your situation turns out much better than mine did.

I know what you are going through...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Firmware V2.08 is Now "Official" for the D2v and AVM 50v!*


Anthem has placed D2v and AVM 50v firmware version V2.08 (5nov09) on their public download pages today.


For the D2v: http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html 


For the AVM 50v: http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...Downloads.html 


Release Notes for changes since the prior "official" version, V2.07, read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08:
> 
> 
> 1. Many changes to audio and video processing to improve performance.
> 
> 
> 2. Faster HDMI switching.
> 
> 
> 3. Improved dual-HDMI output so certain TV brands can be mixed.



As you can see, many of the changes and issues we've been discussing recently in the beta release testing have been glossed over. For a more detailed indication of what's changed read back over the "test" version release notes posted earlier in this thread.


I can't stress too strongly that *THIS IS AN IMPORTANT UPDATE!* It fixes a number of cases where the processor crashes or loses audio requiring a power cycle -- or simply fails to produce audio at all on power up. It fixes a significant problem with LPCM input. It has significantly improved HDMI code -- including fixing the long-standing incompatibility with HDMI video from the AppleTV product. It has significant improvements in video processor functioning -- although some of these might be tricky to spot if you weren't sensitive to the issues involved.


For folks who've been around since the D2 days, I would rate this as about the same as the V1.10 release for that product -- i.e., the first really clean and complete release since the product shipped. Audio, video, and system stability are finally where I would like them to be, and only modest known bugs remain.

*I recommend V2.08 for all D2v and AVM 50v users.*


As an added bonus, V2.08 includes a new implementation of 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion for folks watching HDTV movies on a display that accepts 1080p/24 and "does the right thing" with it.


-------------------------------------------


Before doing the firmware install, go into Setup and Save User and/or Installer Settings. You will be able to use these afterwards to restore your settings. Both the Setup menu and the Video Source Adjust menu settings will be saved. "Temporary" audio settings you might have made using the remote will not be saved and will end up back at default values.


You can also save a copy of your Setup menu settings to a PC file using the SettingsBackup utility. And you can save a copy of your Video Source Adjust menu settings to a PC file using the LiveVideoSettingsEditor utility -- both of which will be found in the Utilities folder of the ARC V2.3 install kit, which can be downloaded from the same pages above.


-----------------------------------------------------


Prior to doing the install, you must do a Reload Factory Defaults.


Prior to doing the install, you must also make sure you have no powered HDMI Source or Display connections. Please be aware that many modern HDMI devices keep their HDMI sockets powered even when the device is "OFF". Since HDMI plugs and sockets are delicate, rather than unplugging your HDMI connections, my recommendation is that you simply remove wall power from everything in your system except for the Anthem and your Windows PC.


Start with your Anthem turned OFF (but with the back panel power switch ON).


You can do the install using Windows XP or Vista. Do not use Windows 7. Mac users can do the install running Windows under Boot Camp. Users have also reported success using Windows under VMWare Fusion -- but using the Belkin USB/Serial adapter instead of the Keyspan model normally discussed here.


The Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter is the model that seems to work well for everyone except the VMWare Fusion folks. Double check on their support site that you have the latest version of their driver for your particular operating system.


Make sure that nothing else is running on your Windows PC during the install. For example, if you have Windows Messenger set to startup automatically on each boot, find it in the Task Tray and exit out of it.


Do not let your computer go into Sleep or Screen Saver during the install. Just move the cursor a bit every few minutes to keep that from happening.


The install will complete in about 15 minutes. If it fails with an error message, don't panic. Just power off the Anthem if it is not already off, reboot your Windows PC to get things into a fresh state, and try again.


When the install completes, power up your Anthem and Reload Saved User or Installer Settings to restore your personal configuration.


---------------------------------------------------


It is not essential to reload your current ARC setup after a firmware install


The special Room Correction parameters ARC Uploads survive both the Reset Factory Defaults AND the firmware install itself. And the Reload Saved User or Installer Settings you do after the firmware install restores the Setup menu settings ARC Uploaded as well.


However, if you are like me, you like to be SURE about such things, and you already have the cable connected so:


To re-Upload your current ARC results after the firmware install and after reloading your other settings, simply open your current set of ARC results in ARC's "Advanced" mode and just do an Upload. No need to re-Measure or re-Calculate.


Please note, there is no requirement to remove HDMI connections or do a Reload Factory Defaults for this. Those two steps are only for FIRMWARE installs.


After the ARC Upload completes. Power up the Anthem and visit the Setup menu to make sure everything looks correct. If so, Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the Setup menu settings ARC has just Uploaded.


----------------------------------------------------------


My personal practice is to do a brand new ARC setup after each major release of either ARC or the unit firmware. As it turns out, ARC has not had any changes that alter audio quality since the ARC V2.1 version and so my current ARC setup dates back to MARCH!


Although there have been no changes I'm aware of in the V2.07 or V2.08 firmware that affect the creation of an ARC setup, I think it is high time I did a new ARC setup "just in case". I.e., the audio changes in V2.07 and V2.08 alter how audio playback happens, but not how ARC setup itself happens, so the old ARC setup should still be just as good, but I'm going to redo it anyway, probably this evening.


----------------------------------------------------------


For folks who have already installed "test" V2.08(5nov09), the version now on the public download page is IDENTICAL. There is no need to re-install it.


----------------------------------------------------------


There are several known issues in V2.08, but all are really quite minor compared to the bugs that have been fixed.


The most significant problem is that sometimes when you switch to a 2.0 channel audio input source the audio surround mode you have specified in Mode Presets will not be correctly applied. This is somewhat random, and seems to happen primarily when the Mode Preset is PLIIx-Movie or PLIIx-Music. The result is that you only get audio output from LF/RF/Sub ONLY, instead of all your speakers. You can also tell this is happening by pressing Select repeatedly until you see the list of active speakers for output.


The workaround when this happens is simple. Use the Mode button and the Up/Down arrows to switch to any other audio mode and back.


There is also a subtle color problem in the video processing. Most people will not notice this.


And there is a situation where the Anthem is a bit too aggressive trying to reject noise from LPCM audio input. It only seems to happen at 48KHz and it only seems to happen if ONLY JUST ONE channel is active for input at the moment. Essentially this last bit means you'll never run into this in real content -- only from certain types of audio test track.


Anthem is aware of all of these issues and I expect there will be a new "test" version out in a week or so to address them.


In addition, 480i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion is still being refined.


And personally, I'm having a noise problem from my old Pioneer 59avi SD-DVD player -- one of the first HDMI V1.0 devices.


And finally, of course, we expect the first beta releases of the Dolby Volume feature quite soon.


Despite all that, my recommendation is that folks update to V2.08 and NOT WAIT. The bug fixes already in V2.08 are too important.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17488565
> 
> 
> What`s wrong?
> 
> Everytime when I want to install D2v v2.08 (5nov09) I get the message "Firmware install failed! Please try again. Video processor reset failed:".
> 
> I am using Winxp with serial port connection to my new D2v (ver 2.07).
> 
> Please help me.



Call Anthem tech support. This is a new problem and the cause is still being determined. They may need to send you a replacement video board.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17488565
> 
> 
> What`s wrong?
> 
> Everytime when I want to install D2v v2.08 (5nov09) I get the message "Firmware install failed! Please try again. Video processor reset failed:".
> 
> I am using Winxp with serial port connection to my new D2v (ver 2.07).
> 
> Please help me.



I just heard from Nick on this. They definitely want anyone who has this failure to call them so they can get details.


They suspect the problem may be in the way the prior firmware was installed, but they are not sure yet.


For a new unit, of course the prior firmware install would have been done by the Anthem factory.


----------------------------------------------


Of course Anthem tech support can not help folks over the weekend. Generally speaking, it is safer to wait to do firmware installs until at least Sunday so that if you DO have an issue you can reach Anthem the next day.

--Bob


----------



## perioms




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17489074
> 
> 
> I just heard from Nick on this. They definitely want anyone who has this failure to call them so they can get details.
> 
> 
> They suspect the problem may be in the way the prior firmware was installed, but they are not sure yet.
> 
> 
> For a new unit, of course the prior firmware install would have been done by the Anthem factory.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Of course Anthem tech support can not help folks over the weekend. Generally speaking, it is safer to wait to do firmware installs until at least Sunday so that if you DO have an issue you can reach Anthem the next day.
> 
> --Bob



It`s a brand new unit, just one week old. I wrote an email to tech-support. I am from germany. So it`s very difficult for me to call them by phone.

Regarding this issue it`s perhaps interesting, that I was not able to get data from the D2v using the livevideosettingseditor.


----------



## perioms




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17489181
> 
> 
> It`s a brand new unit, just one week old. I wrote an email to tech-support. I am from germany. So it`s very difficult for me to call them by phone.
> 
> Regarding this issue it`s perhaps interesting, that I was not able to get data from the D2v using the livevideosettingseditor.



Sometimes, when trying to upgrade, I also get the message "CPLD configurator programming failed (error code=0x3).

Perhaps this will help to solve the problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17489245
> 
> 
> Sometimes, when trying to upgrade, I also get the message "CPLD configurator programming failed (error code=0x3).
> 
> Perhaps this will help to solve the problem.



The fact that you are having problems with Live Video Settings Editor suggests your serial connection is not working properly. Did you try LVSE before the firmware install failure?


Also try SettingsBackup utility to see if it can communicate properly with the D2v.


What version of Windows OS are you using?


Does it have a built-in Serial connection or are using an adapter such as a USB/Serial adapter -- and if so which one?


The manual gives some guidance in the correct settings for the COM port in Windows. Check that.


Also, if you have made any changes in the RS-232 settings in the D2v -- perhaps because you are using it with a serial cabled control system such as Crestron -- return those back to the default settings when trying to use the Anthem utilities or the firmware installer. The Reload Factory Defaults will have done this, but some folks go and change those settings again afterwards which won't work.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

I tried and failed a couple of times using Vista x64....switched to XP and it worked first time.


So, as previously noted, just don't bother trying this with 64 bit operating systems.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More info from Nick on the new 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 stuff in V2.08


This is going to work best if you are watching on a cable or satellite HDTV movie channel so there are no commercials.


If you watch on a commercial channel, the video will be wrong during any commercials that come on because, of course they are not film-based.


I'm not sure if it re-handshakes when that happens or just sticks in 1080p/24 output waiting for the film cadence to return.


So again, you will certainly want a "normal" 1080p/60 setup as well for typical channel surfing. You could set that up on TV1 vs. TV2 for example.

--Bob


----------



## perioms




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17489321
> 
> 
> The fact that you are having problems with Live Video Settings Editor suggests your serial connection is not working properly. Did you try LVSE before the firmware install failure?
> 
> 
> Also try SettingsBackup utility to see if it can communicate properly with the D2v.
> 
> 
> What version of Windows OS are you using?
> 
> 
> Does it have a built-in Serial connection or are using an adapter such as a USB/Serial adapter -- and if so which one?
> 
> 
> The manual gives some guidance in the correct settings for the COM port in Windows. Check that.
> 
> 
> Also, if you have made any changes in the RS-232 settings in the D2v -- perhaps because you are using it with a serial cabled control system such as Crestron -- return those back to the default settings when trying to use the Anthem utilities or the firmware installer. The Reload Factory Defaults will have done this, but some folks go and change those settings again afterwards which won't work.
> 
> --Bob



I tried LVSE before firmware install. SettingsBackup utility works fine. I don`t use any serial-usb adapter, but the original serial cable from anthem. I checked the COM port settings and I am using XP with SP3.


----------



## jayray

Watched Star Trek 2009 today and got 3 audio dropouts, none of which were repeatable. I was bitstreaming from my Oppo BD-83. I guess I will email oppo and of course Nick. As Bob has mentioned many times, these dropouts are usually player related. But the odd time they are DSP related as was Dark Knight.

John


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/17489491
> 
> 
> I tried and failed a couple of times using Vista x64....switched to XP and it worked first time.
> 
> 
> So, as previously noted, just don't bother trying this with 64 bit operating systems.



I just updated from 2.07 to 2.08 using Vista64 via a PCMCIA -> Serial Card. It worked just fine and was uneventful just as every other firmware upgrade or ARC setup I've done with with it. I know there are others on this board who have had success with 64 bit OS's.


----------



## Michael_V

Well, I am frustrated and a bit irritated with Anthem for making the firmware update procedure so incredibly fussy! They might take a lesson from Sony: my PS3 updates with a single button press.


Anyhoo ...


I would like to install the newest firmware in preparation for running ARC for the first time. As an Apple guy, I had to buy a new Toshiba Mini netbook just for this. It's running Windows XP. It has no serial port so I am using a TrendNet USB to Serial connector. Per the FAQ, I set its STOP BITS to 2, the COMM PORT to 1, and FLOW CONTROL to Xon/Xoff. I disconnected all HDMI devices from my AVM50v, reloaded factory defaults, powered it down in back, made my connections, and powered it back up.


Still no love. I keep getting "Warning : Unable to locate Anthem hardware on any serial port. Check cable connection and try again."


Frackin' toaster!


So what am I doing wrong???


----------



## bluemark81

Bob:


Could you explain to me in simplistic terms, what exactly frame lock does and the advantage of using it in the D2v? I'm not sure I fully understand the manual for this feature and never enabled it when I had my AVM50. My video sources are an Oppo BDP83, a PS3 and a HD Satellite receiver. My display is a Pioneer 151FD.


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17483750
> 
> 
> Please double check that this version has NOT re-broken the up-mix of 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output. I can't test that in my setup.
> 
> --Bob



This works fine now. I tested the 7.1 to 5.1 on my system and it worked fine as well. Nice to see these are fixed.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/17490002
> 
> 
> I just updated from 2.07 to 2.08 using Vista64 via a PCMCIA -> Serial Card. It worked just fine and was uneventful just as every other firmware upgrade or ARC setup I've done with with it. I know there are others on this board who have had success with 64 bit OS's.



The Keyspan USB/Serisl adapter has, I believe, a driver update neede for 64 bit Windows. That might be the cause of the problem some folks have had.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17489956
> 
> 
> I tried LVSE before firmware install. SettingsBackup utility works fine. I don`t use any serial-usb adapter, but the original serial cable from anthem. I checked the COM port settings and I am using XP with SP3.



Check you Anthem supplied serial cable and make sure it is not labeled a "Null Modem" cable. Anthem shipped out a few of the wrong style serial cable by mistake.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17490087
> 
> 
> Well, I am frustrated and a bit irritated with Anthem for making the firmware update procedure so incredibly fussy! They might take a lesson from Sony: my PS3 updates with a single button press.
> 
> 
> Anyhoo ...
> 
> 
> I would like to install the newest firmware in preparation for running ARC for the first time. As an Apple guy, I had to buy a new Toshiba Mini netbook just for this. It's running Windows XP. It has no serial port so I am using a TrendNet USB to Serial connector. Per the FAQ, I set its STOP BITS to 2, the COMM PORT to 1, and FLOW CONTROL to Xon/Xoff. I disconnected all HDMI devices from my AVM50v, reloaded factory defaults, powered it down in back, made my connections, and powered it back up.
> 
> 
> Still no love. I keep getting "Warning : Unable to locate Anthem hardware on any serial port. Check cable connection and try again."
> 
> 
> Frackin' toaster!
> 
> 
> So what am I doing wrong???



See post above about checking your serial cable. You need a "straight through" cable -- Pins 1-9 connected directly to pins 1-9.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

If anyone has successfully uploaded FW to the Anthems using the Keyspan USB/RS232 adapter and Windows Vista 32, can you please tell me the serial port settings you have set in Device manager? Currently, mine are:


Datarate = 115200 bits/sec

Databits = 8

Parity = None (N)

Stopbits = 2

Flow Control = _NOT SURE._ Is it supposed to be set to *Xon/Xoff, Hardware* or *None*?


What settings do you have set in the Advanced TAB?


I'm one of those few who have had problems uploading FW to the Anthems.


Thanks!

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17490631
> 
> 
> If anyone has successfully uploaded FW to the Anthems using the Keyspan USB/RS232 adapter and Windows Vista 32, can you please tell me the serial port settings you have set in Device manager? Currently, mine are:
> 
> 
> Datarate = 115200 bits/sec
> 
> Databits = 8
> 
> Parity = None (N)
> 
> Stopbits = 2
> 
> Flow Control = _NOT SURE._ Is it supposed to be set to *Xon/Xoff, Hardware* or *None*?
> 
> 
> I'm one of those few who have had problems uploading FW to the Anthems.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> David



Flow Control should be NONE.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17490656
> 
> 
> Flow Control should be NONE.
> 
> --Bob



Thx Bob...will try to upgrade on Monday







.


----------



## husker du

I just loaded the new firmware (2.08 Nov5) off the protected site for my D2v and I am not getting any sound out of my rear speakers when playing Tiger Woods Golf 10 on my PS3. The D2v is showing 7.1 on the front display. If I play a 5.1 source signal, no problem, rear speakers work fine. My system is set up for 7.1. Any ideas? Thanks.


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17490467
> 
> 
> Check your Anthem supplied serial cable and make sure it is not labeled a "Null Modem" cable. Anthem shipped out a few of the wrong style serial cable by mistake.
> 
> --Bob



Well, this is brilliant, isn't it? Where would this label be?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17491126
> 
> 
> Well, this is brilliant, isn't it? Where would this label be?



The report was that the label was on the connector at each end. Very embarrassing to be sure.


Just a handful of faulty cables were shipped and Anthem Tech Support believes all of them have been located and replaced. But it doesn't hurt to check your cable if this is the first time you are using it and you are having a problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17490974
> 
> 
> I just loaded the new firmware (2.08 Nov5) off the protected site for my D2v and I am not getting any sound out of my rear speakers when playing Tiger Woods Golf 10 on my PS3. The D2v is showing 7.1 on the front display. If I play a 5.1 source signal, no problem, rear speakers work fine. My system is set up for 7.1. Any ideas? Thanks.



Bring up the on screen display on the PS3 and report what it says about the audio track it is playing.


Then press Select repeatedly on the Anthem and report what the various displays state for the type of audio input, the active input channels, and the active speakers for output.


Finally press Mode on the Anthem and report the current audio mode.

--Bob


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17491178
> 
> 
> The report was that the label was on the connector at each end. Very embarrassing to be sure.
> 
> 
> Just a handful of faulty cables were shipped and Anthem Tech Support believes all of them have been located and replaced. But it doesn't hurt to check your cable if this is the first time you are using it and you are having a problem.
> 
> --Bob



No such label on mine.


You wrote above that FLOW CONTROL should be set to NONE. Is this true for XP, as well? Anything else?


----------



## jlanier




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17490974
> 
> 
> I just loaded the new firmware (2.08 Nov5) off the protected site for my D2v and I am not getting any sound out of my rear speakers when playing Tiger Woods Golf 10 on my PS3. The D2v is showing 7.1 on the front display. If I play a 5.1 source signal, no problem, rear speakers work fine. My system is set up for 7.1. Any ideas? Thanks.



The game may simply not support 7.1. Some PS3 games incorrectly set the # of active channels to a different number of channels than they actually render to. If the game is rendering 5.1 audio, but configured the HDMI output for 7.1, then your rear surrounds will in fact be quiet. This isn't a problem with the Anthem; any HDMI LPCM 7.1-capable receiver would behave the same way. It's just a case of poor programming on the part of the game developer.


Some games will play in 7.1, but cutscenes will still play in 5.1 with "dead" rears. This is because movies are often mixed in 5.1 even though in-game sounds can be dynamically panned across any number of active speakers. Some games will play in 5.1 regardless of whether 5.1 or 7.1 is indicated in the XMB HDMI audio setup, like you are seeing. Some games that don't support 7.1 will drop back to 5.1 and correctly configure the HDMI output for 5.1, and if so, this would be reflected in the Anthem's channel status. And some games will play in 7.1 correctly in all cases. Unfortunately, the only way to know for sure if the observed behavior is intentional is to ask the game developer.


Clear as mud, right?







It is a shame that some games don't deal with this correctly, because it precludes the processor from using any sort of 7.1 expansion mode, since it thinks the PS3 is really outputting true 7.1.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Most are using the Keyspan USB to serial adapter with there native PC's.


I hate to mention it but since it might help, if you have Fusion on say an iMac the Belkin adapter works for XP Pro. That is how I do my ARC runs, I have not tried it since upgrading to Snow Leopard but Fusion has been running fine on the odd occasion I use it for other things so I really do not anticipate any problems.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17491213
> 
> 
> No such label on mine.
> 
> 
> You wrote above that FLOW CONTROL should be set to NONE. Is this true for XP, as well? Anything else?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17491213
> 
> 
> No such label on mine.
> 
> 
> You wrote above that FLOW CONTROL should be set to NONE. Is this true for XP, as well? Anything else?



The Windows PC serial port requirements other than Flow Control are found in Section 3.15 of the Manual.


Remember that you must do a Reload Factory Defaults in the Setup menu prior to the install. Among other things, this also resets the RS232 settings in the Setup menu as some folks have to alter them in normal use to get a system controller (e.g., Crestron) to work with the Anthem.


Check in Windows Device Manager to see if it is reporting any problems for your serial port or for your USB/serial adapter. For example, your device driver may have a resource conflict with some other device driver installed in your PC.


----------------------------------


I suspect the problem is going to turn out to be the particular USB/Serial adapter you are using. I'm not familiar with the TrendNet adapter. Most folks here have found the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter works well for this stuff. If you decide to change adapters, I recommend you uninstall the old adapter driver before installing the new one.

--Bob


----------



## perioms




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17490467
> 
> 
> Check you Anthem supplied serial cable and make sure it is not labeled a "Null Modem" cable. Anthem shipped out a few of the wrong style serial cable by mistake.
> 
> --Bob



Mc cable is not labeled.


----------



## bluemark81

Could someone explain to me in simplistic terms what exactly frame lock does and the advantage of using it in the D2v? I'm not sure I fully understand the manual for this feature and never enabled it when I had my AVM50. My video sources are an Oppo BDP83, a PS3 and a HD Satellite receiver. My display is a Pioneer 151FD. How would it apply to my equipment?


Thanks


----------



## manutdsoc20




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17490631
> 
> 
> If anyone has successfully uploaded FW to the Anthems using the Keyspan USB/RS232 adapter and Windows Vista 32, can you please tell me the serial port settings you have set in Device manager? Currently, mine are:
> 
> 
> Datarate = 115200 bits/sec
> 
> Databits = 8
> 
> Parity = None (N)
> 
> Stopbits = 2
> 
> Flow Control = _NOT SURE._ Is it supposed to be set to *Xon/Xoff, Hardware* or *None*?
> 
> 
> What settings do you have set in the Advanced TAB?
> 
> 
> I'm one of those few who have had problems uploading FW to the Anthems.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> David



David,


I use the Keyspan usb to serial adapter as well.


I install 2.08 just fine on WIN7 with the vista driver for the keyspan adapter from the keyspan website.


Here my port settings:


Bits per second: 9600

Data Bits:8

Parity: None

Stop Bits:1

Flow Control:None

Com1



I hope this well help you get it working.


Cheers Jason


----------



## EL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17491856
> 
> 
> Could someone explain to me in simplistic terms what exactly frame lock does and the advantage of using it in the D2v? I'm not sure I fully understand the manual for this feature and never enabled it when I had my AVM50. My video sources are an Oppo BDP83, a PS3 and a HD Satellite receiver. My display is a Pioneer 151FD. How would it apply to my equipment?
> 
> 
> Thanks



you would not have to bother about 24Hz or 60Hz for example, it would automatically get the right frame rate.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17489074
> 
> 
> it is safer to wait to do firmware installs until at least Sunday so that if you DO have an issue you can reach Anthem the next day.
> 
> --Bob



OH NO - that would risk MISSING Desperate Housewives


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EL* /forum/post/17492119
> 
> 
> you would not have to bother about 24Hz or 60Hz for example, it would automatically get the right frame rate.



I assume what you mean is if the incoming frame rate is 60 Hz and my D2v's video config is set to 24p output, then if Frame lock is set to auto, then the Anthem will convert it to 24p. What happens if it is set to off, and I'm still using 24p output? This is what I don't understand with this feature.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

With Frame Lock OFF the video output is always just what you have specified in your Video Output Configuration.


For example, I use 1080p/24 input for Blu-Ray movies from my Oppo, with Frame Lock OFF and with a 768p/60 Video Output Configuration.


The D2v scales the image and does the frame rate conversion. Raising /24 to /60 is easy -- the D2v just has to apply a repeat cadence.


If you have a display that accepts 1080p/24 and "does the right thing" with it, you could also have a Video Output Configuration for 1080p/24. Then you could set up a Source for playing 1080p/24 input from your Blu-Ray player which uses that 1080p/24 Video Output Configuration.


Of course you would need to manually switch to your 1080p/60 Video Output when playing "live concert" style Blu-Ray discs -- which are 1080i/60 and video-based.


OR, you could set Frame Lock AUTO on your original Source. When the input is 1080p/24 (from Blu-Ray movies), the 1080p/24 Video Output configuration would be used unaltered. But when the input is 1080i/60 (from Blu-ray "live concert" style discs), the Video Output would automatically switch to 1080p/60.


You would still need a separate 1080p/60 Video Output configuration for use with other Sources.


-------------------------------------------


What's new is that Frame Lock AUTO will now also enable the extraction of the original /24 stream from 1080i/60 (and soon from 480i/60) input that happens to be film-based. E.g., HDTV movies.


So once again you would use a 1080p/24 Video Output configuration, and you would use Frame Lock AUTO. The difference now is that when the input is 1080i/60 -- instead of immediately shifting the output to /60, the new software will FIRST check to see if it can extract a /24 video stream from that /60 input. And if so it will DO THAT, and LEAVE the Video Output at /24.


What happens in that case if Frame Lock is OFF? Well this will also disable the extraction of the /24 video from the input stream. So the processor will see a /60 video input stream and will try to force it to the /24 you have specified as your Video Output. But that can not be done in any useful fashion. There's no good way to decide which frames to discard. So you will see stuttering of the video.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17492369
> 
> 
> With Frame Lock OFF the video output is always just what you have specified in your Video Output Configuration.
> 
> 
> For example, I use 1080p/24 input for Blu-Ray movies from my Oppo, with Frame Lock OFF and with a 768p/60 Video Output Configuration.
> 
> 
> The D2v scales the image and does the frame rate conversion. Raising /24 to /60 is easy -- the D2v just has to apply a repeat cadence.
> 
> 
> If you have a display that accepts 1080p/24 and "does the right thing" with it, you could also have a Video Output Configuration for 1080p/24. Then you could set up a Source for playing 1080p/24 input from your Blu-Ray player which uses that 1080p/24 Video Output Configuration.
> 
> 
> Of course you would need to manually switch to your 1080p/60 Video Output when playing "live concert" style Blu-Ray discs -- which are 1080i/60 and video-based.
> 
> 
> OR, you could set Frame Lock AUTO on your original Source. When the input is 1080p/24 (from Blu-Ray movies), the 1080p/24 Video Output configuration would be used unaltered. But when the input is 1080i/60 (from Blu-ray "live concert" style discs), the Video Output would automatically switch to 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> You would still need a separate 1080p/60 Video Output configuration for use with other Sources.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> What's new is that Frame Lock AUTO will now also enable the extraction of the original /24 stream from 1080i/60 (and soon from 480i/60) input that happens to be film-based. E.g., HDTV movies.
> 
> 
> So once again you would use a 1080p/24 Video Output configuration, and you would use Frame Lock AUTO. The difference now is that when the input is 1080i/60 -- instead of immediately shifting the output to /60, the new software will FIRST check to see if it can extract a /24 video stream from that /60 input. And if so it will DO THAT, and LEAVE the Video Output at /24.
> 
> 
> What happens in that case if Frame Lock is OFF? Well this will also disable the extraction of the /24 video from the input stream. So the processor will see a /60 video input stream and will try to force it to the /24 you have specified as your Video Output. But that can not be done in any useful fashion. There's no good way to decide which frames to discard. So you will see stuttering of the video.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob:


So, if my Sat receiver is outputting at /60 and I have my D2v's video out set to /24 with Frame Lock off, then it will output to my display at /24. But if the Frame Lock is set to Auto, it will output at /60 regardless what the video output is set to? This seems to be the case in checking the input and output status from the OSD.


Likewise, if the Oppo's 1080p24 output is set to auto and the D2v's video out set to /24 with Frame Lock off, then it will output to my display at /24. But if the Frame Lock is set to Auto, it will still output at /24 unless I play a disk that is filmed at /60?


Where the Pioneer display is supposedly able to handle both /24 and /60, then am I correct in assuming I only need to have one video out config set to /24 and so long as the Frame lock for each source is set to Auto, then it will output whatever frame rate is coming in, regardless of my video output setting for that source?



I'm just trying to determine the best setting for frame rate for each of my video sources.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17492680
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob:
> 
> 
> So, if my Sat receiver is outputting at /60 and I have my D2v's video out set to /24 with Frame Lock off, then it will output to my display at /24. But if the Frame Lock is set to Auto, it will output at /60 regardless what the video output is set to? This seems to be the case in checking the input and output status from the OSD.



Yes in the first case, *and it will look awful*. You can't convert /60 input to /24 output that way. You will get stuttering.


No in the second case. If the input is 1080i/60 or 480i/60 the Frame Lock AUTO setting will first try to see if it can extract a /24 video stream from the input. If so, it will leave the output at /24. If not it will switch the output to /60. This should work for watching 1080i/60 movies on HDTV now, but the conversion from 480i/60 is still being refined so it may not work as well.



> Quote:
> Likewise, if the Oppo's 1080p24 output is set to auto and the D2v's video out set to /24 with Frame Lock off, then it will output to my display at /24. But if the Frame Lock is set to Auto, it will still output at /24 unless I play a disk that is filmed at /60?



Again, this is using a 1080p/24 Video Output Configuration right? Then with Frame Lock OFF you will always get /24 output. For 1080p/24 input from the Oppo this will look fine. For 1080i/60 input from the Oppo (e.g., "live concert Blu-Ray discs) this will look awful -- more stuttering.


With Frame Lock AUTO you will get /24 output for /24 input and you will get /60 output for /60 input. Since the 1080i/60 input from Blu-ray discs is NEVER film-based, the /24 extraction will decide to leave things at /60.



> Quote:
> Where the Pioneer display is supposedly able to handle both /24 and /60, then am I correct in assuming I only need to have one video out config set to /24 and so long as the Frame lock for each source is set to Auto, then it will output whatever frame rate is coming in, regardless of my video output setting for that source?



No. If a 480i/60 or 1080i/60 input stream is film-based, Frame Lock AUTO will attempt to extract the original /24 stream and will leave things at /24. This should work well for 1080i/60 now and not so well for 480i/60. If it decides the input is video-based then it will switch to /60 output.


Keep in mind that this /24 extraction stuff is new, and I can't test it in my setup since my display doesn't handle that. So I'm only repeating what I think Nick has told me.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17492841
> 
> 
> Yes in the first case, *and it will look awful*. You can't convert /60 input to /24 output that way. You will get stuttering.
> 
> 
> No in the second case. If the input is 1080i/60 or 480i/60 the Frame Lock AUTO setting will first try to see if it can extract a /24 video stream from the input. If so, it will leave the output at /24. If not it will switch the output to /60. This should work for watching 1080i/60 movies on HDTV now, but the conversion from 480i/60 is still being refined so it may not work as well.



So, my best bet right now would be to have my Satellite source in the D2v's video out config set for 60p and Frame Lock off to provide the smoothest picture?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17492841
> 
> 
> Again, this is using a 1080p/24 Video Output Configuration right?



Yes



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17492841
> 
> 
> Then with Frame Lock OFF you will always get /24 output. For 1080p/24 input from the Oppo this will look fine. For 1080i/60 input from the Oppo (e.g., "live concert Blu-Ray discs) this will look awful -- more stuttering.
> 
> 
> With Frame Lock AUTO you will get /24 output for /24 input and you will get /60 output for /60 input. Since the 1080i/60 input from Blu-ray discs is NEVER film-based, the /24 extraction will decide to leave things at /60.



So, in this case, for the smoothest picture, I should have the D2v set for a 24p output and Frame Lock set to Auto.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17492841
> 
> 
> No. If a 480i/60 or 1080i/60 input stream is film-based, Frame Lock AUTO will attempt to extract the original /24 stream and will leave things at /24. This should work well for 1080i/60 now and not so well for 480i/60. If it decides the input is video-based then it will switch to /60 output.



I rarely play regular DVD's anymore, but if I did, would it be better to leave Frame Lock off for now?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17492841
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that this /24 extraction stuff is new, and I can't test it in my setup since my display doesn't handle that. So I'm only repeating what I think Nick has told me.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks


----------



## osofast240sx

Will anthem go beyond 7 channels in the future?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *osofast240sx* /forum/post/17493137
> 
> 
> Will anthem go beyond 7 channels in the future?



Not with the current hardware. No announcements have been made regarding future hardware.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17493036
> 
> 
> So, my best bet right now would be to have my Satellite source in the D2v's video out config set for 60p and Frame Lock off to provide the smoothest picture?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, in this case, for the smoothest picture, I should have the D2v set for a 24p output and Frame Lock set to Auto.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I rarely play regular DVD's anymore, but if I did, would it be better to leave Frame Lock off for now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



I've tried a blu-ray with Frame Lock off and video output in the D2v set to 60p and it appears smoother than when I set it to 24p. Why is that?


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *manutdsoc20* /forum/post/17491984
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> 
> I use the Keyspan usb to serial adapter as well.
> 
> 
> I install 2.08 just fine on WIN7 with the vista driver for the keyspan adapter from the keyspan website.
> 
> 
> Here my port settings:
> 
> 
> Bits per second: 9600
> 
> Data Bits:8
> 
> Parity: None
> 
> Stop Bits:1
> 
> Flow Control:None
> 
> Com1
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this well help you get it working.
> 
> 
> Cheers Jason




Do you have the 32bit windows 7 or 64bit?


I have the same Keyspan and windows 7 64bit, but can't install firmware without getting into a program loop... thus, corrupting the anthem to the point I have to run flash eraser to fix..


Thanks..


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *manutdsoc20* /forum/post/17491984
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> 
> I use the Keyspan usb to serial adapter as well.
> 
> 
> I install 2.08 just fine on WIN7 with the vista driver for the keyspan adapter from the keyspan website.
> 
> 
> Here my port settings:
> 
> 
> Bits per second: 9600
> 
> Data Bits:8
> 
> Parity: None
> 
> Stop Bits:1
> 
> Flow Control:None
> 
> Com1
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this well help you get it working.
> 
> 
> Cheers Jason



Jason:


Thanks and your help. Greatly appreciated







. I had set my bitrate to 115K so maybe i change it to 9600baud? Anyhow my laptop is giving me COM6 ot use for my Kepspan adapter. Hope this will not be a problem.


Also Anthem specifically says to set the number of stop bits to 2 but you've successfully uploaded the latest firmware with a setting of 1 stop bit







???



Please, anyone else want to post their PC settings for the serial port(speed & flow control)? How about the Anthem serial port settings?


Thanks all,

David


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17493923
> 
> 
> Jason:
> 
> 
> Thanks and your help. Greatly appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I had set my bitrate to 115K so maybe i change it to 9600baud? Anyhow my laptop is giving me COM6 ot use for my Kepspan adapter. Hope this will not be a problem.
> 
> David



I had the baud rate problem when I first tried a FW update.


Needed to SLOW it done.


There is Something in the Anthem info that gives you a PORT

range that works. Other here probably remember then number

better than I do. I think 6 is OK and if not you can force it to

a lower number.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17494132
> 
> 
> I had the baud rate problem when I first tried a FW update.
> 
> 
> Needed to SLOW it done.
> 
> 
> There is Something in the Anthem info that gives you a PORT
> 
> range that works. Other here probably remember then number
> 
> better than I do. I think 6 is OK and if not you can force it to
> 
> a lower number.



Yes, any COM port 1-6 is supposed to be fine. Some machines will assign COM7, that will not work and needs to be changed in that case.


-Brian


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/17494300
> 
> 
> Yes, any COM port 1-6 is supposed to be fine. Some machines will assign COM7, that will not work and needs to be changed in that case.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Thanks Brian







...good to know I'm in the acceptable range



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17494132
> 
> 
> I had the baud rate problem when I first tried a FW update.
> 
> 
> Needed to SLOW it done.
> 
> 
> There is Something in the Anthem info that gives you a PORT
> 
> range that works. Other here probably remember then number
> 
> better than I do. I think 6 is OK and if not you can force it to
> 
> a lower number.



Thanks Drhankz







...this gives credence to a previous poster speed recommendation of 9600 baud. What was the stop bit settings you had in your PC setup?


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17491407
> 
> 
> The Windows PC serial port requirements other than Flow Control are found in Section 3.15 of the Manual.--Bob



Section 3.15 of my manual does not include any information except "the virtual port must be assigned to COM1-COM6."


Not one word about Bits per second, Data Bits, Parity, Stop Bits, or Flow Control.


*RANT*


Sorry to keep b*tching, but why in the world did Anthem choose to use an old technology (serial port) that requires a forum like this (with expert advice) to do something as simple as updating firmware?


Why not simply use ethernet, wifi, or even USB? Were serial ports all the rage with the fifty and up crowd over at Anthem R&D? Were they also considering punch cards for the updates?


*END OF RANT*


----------



## manutdsoc20




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/17493626
> 
> 
> Do you have the 32bit windows 7 or 64bit?
> 
> 
> I have the same Keyspan and windows 7 64bit, but can't install firmware without getting into a program loop... thus, corrupting the anthem to the point I have to run flash eraser to fix..
> 
> 
> Thanks..



muaddib


I have WIN7 32 Bit Home Premium


Everyone make sure you have the latest driver from keyspan's website here:


Model USA-19HS Keyspan Driver - Windows


http://www.tripplite.com/en/support/...22&txtSubType= 


Verify You used the same settings as me from my post above except maybe for the stop bits set it to 2.


Cheers Jason


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've completed the redo of my ARC setup using ARC V2.3 and firmware V2.08. This is the first update I've done to my ARC setup since March.


As always, my Center speaker is the big challenge. Its location and mounting leads to some issues. For some reason this time it was more challenging than usual.


ARC wanted to set it up with a cutoff/crossover of 60Hz, but that left me with a big hole for it below 100Hz, and the resources ARC was putting in to trying to fix that were leaving me with issues in the other speakers as well. To get a smooth solution for the others I had to forego raising Max EQ Frequency to 20KHz.


So I decided to take a chance and raise the cutoff/crossover for Center from 60Hz to 90Hz. This gives me the very nice results shown in the charts below. I've been listening to these results for a while now and so far I've spotted no down-side to this. I.e., ARC seems to have come up with a perfectly fine solution even with me changing that setting for Center.


The only other change I made was to raise Max EQ Frequency to 20KHz for both Movie and Music. The Music configuration excludes the Center speaker.


See the charts below.


---------------------------------------------------------


Numerous people have reported over the past few months that the procedure I've been having folks do to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level to 75dB was yielding an ARC solution a chunk higher than that.


Well I've found the same thing in this redo.


In fact the error is precisely 6dB. The 75dB Test Level setting found with the SPL meter needs to be lowered 6dB to get ARC to produce a 75dB solution.


That sounds suspiciously like the standard 6dB difference between the RCA and XLR outputs (I'm using RCA). I suspect this is simply a bug in the way ARC interprets the Test Level setting.


Lowering Test Level 6dB (from a -2.0 to a -8.0 setting in my case) resulted in the 75dB ARC solution shown in the charts here. And the volume level produced by this solution when playing real content is where I expect it to be, so I think ARC really has generated a 75dB solution.


ARC applied a 115Hz cutoff to the subwoofer for both Movie and Music. However the Uploaded subwoofer crossover is 90Hz for Movie and 65Hz for Music. Both solutions sound great so far.


I'll send an email to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Michael_V

Getting closer (with Gigaware adaptor)...


What does this error message mean?


"OKI FLASH will not enter block un-protected state"


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17494575
> 
> 
> Section 3.15 of my manual does not include any information except "the virtual port must be assigned to COM1-COM6."
> 
> 
> Not one word about Bits per second, Data Bits, Parity, Stop Bits, or Flow Control.
> 
> 
> *RANT*
> 
> 
> Sorry to keep b*tching, but why in the world did Anthem choose to use an old technology (serial port) that requires a forum like this (with expert advice) to do something as simple as updating firmware?
> 
> 
> Why not simply use ethernet, wifi, or even USB? Were serial ports all the rage with the fifty and up crowd over at Anthem R&D? Were they also considering punch cards for the updates?
> 
> 
> *END OF RANT*



I love a good rant as much as anyone, but I repeat, when all is said and done here, I think the problem is going to turn out to be your choice of USB/serial adapter instead of these settings.


The Keyspan USA-19HS adapter I use installs on my XP setup and needs no setting adjustments to work with the Factory Default RS-232 settings in my D2v, and before that in my D2.


The firmware install process is something I'd like to see change as well, but it isn't going to happen anytime soon. Whatever else Anthem puts in some new product, they'll likely STILL need to have RS-232 as well to support system controllers that work over serial.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17494741
> 
> 
> Getting closer (with Gigaware adaptor)...
> 
> 
> What does this error message mean?
> 
> 
> "OKI FLASH will not enter block un-protected state"



It likely means your previous attempts to do the install have left the hardware in a state where it isn't able to accept a new install attempt.


Anthem has a Windows PC utility program called Flash Eraser which forces all the programmable parts into the right state to accept a new install.


Give Anthem Tech Support a call on Monday and they can walk you through the process. It's not hard.


The Anthem Tech Support people are good folks. They'll get you up and running again.

--Bob


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17494780
> 
> 
> It likely means your previous attempts to do the install have left the hardware in a state where it isn't able to accept a new install attempt.
> 
> 
> Anthem has a Windows PC utility program called Flash Eraser which forces all the programmable parts into the right state to accept a new install.
> 
> 
> Give Anthem Tech Support a call on Monday and they can walk you through the process. It's not hard.
> 
> 
> The Anthem Tech Support people are good folks. They'll get you up and running again.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, will do! Thanks!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *manutdsoc20* /forum/post/17494589
> 
> 
> muaddib
> 
> 
> I have WIN7 32 Bit Home Premium
> 
> 
> Everyone make sure you have the latest driver from keyspan's website here:
> 
> 
> Model USA-19HS Keyspan Driver - Windows
> 
> 
> http://www.tripplite.com/en/support/...22&txtSubType=
> 
> 
> Verify You used the same settings as me from my post above except maybe for the stop bits set it to 2.
> 
> 
> Cheers Jason



Thanks for the link Jason


----------



## budeone

I downloaded and installed. It was probably the best one I ever did. It was 1-2-3.


It worked just like Bob said it would.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If someone who has installed V2.08 happens to have "Hairspray" Blu-Ray and a player OTHER THAN the Oppo which is capable of sending out HDMI Bitstream, please play the movie and report back whether your D2v or AVM 50v says it is receiving 7.1 or only 5.1 DTS-HD MA as the Bitstream input.


This is one of the oddball tracks that uses the "Alternate Speaker Presentation" (yeah, don't ask). It looks like the Oppo and the D2v may have a problem with it.


Oh, whether you get 7.1 or 5.1 shown on the Anthem, I'll need to know whether you are running a 7.1 or 5.1 speaker configuration as that might be part of the problem.


The issue here is what the Anthem says it is receiving for the DTS-HD MA, not what your player says it is sending out.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Can someone explain this?: I was playing a blu-ray (Flyboys) through my Oppo with it set for auto 1080p/24 and the D2v set for 1080p/24 video output configuration. My TV is a Pioneer 151FD able to handle a 24Hz input (72 Hz).


What I notice is judder when set this way. I tried changing the D2v's output configuration to 60 Hz, and the image got noticeably smoother.


Shouldn't 24 give the smoothest, anti-judder picture? Is there something within the Oppo/Anthem that I should change?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17496353
> 
> 
> Can someone explain this?: I was playing a blu-ray (Flyboys) through my Oppo with it set for auto 1080p/24 and the D2v set for 1080p/24 video output configuration. My TV is a Pioneer 151FD able to handle a 24Hz input (72 Hz).
> 
> 
> What I notice is judder when set this way. I tried changing the D2v's output configuration to 60 Hz, and the image got noticeably smoother.
> 
> 
> Shouldn't 24 give the smoothest, anti-judder picture? Is there something within the Oppo/Anthem that I should change?



First make sure you are actually getting /24 in and out. Check Video Source Adjust > Info. You may have a setting mistake.


Next, be aware that there are settings in the Pioneer display which prevent it from switching into 72Hz refresh. I don't know which settings, but I know they exist. Perhaps someone with your display can help on that or you can check on the owner's thread. If you feed /24 into the display and it is still stuck in /60 screen refresh, it's own frame rate conversion may not be as good as that done by either the Oppo or the Anthem.


Finally, understand that "cadence judder" is not the only reason motion might not be smooth in a movie. The most common additional reason is "motion judder" caused by the fact that the 24 frames per second film speed is not really fast enough to capture all sorts of motion smoothly. Film makers are well aware of this and take steps to avoid trying to film things in a way that will show that -- but sometimes they deliberately leave motion judder in the film for artistic effect. And sometimes they just aren't careful enough.


And in that case, using /24 can actually have the effect of showing motion judder more than /60, because /60 kind of blurs it a bit. Here's an interesting article that talks about the down-side of using /24. Be sure to read the comments that follow it as well, as some of the suggestions he makes --- such as using frame interpolation in newer displays -- are controversial to say the least:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/judder_24p.htm 


At the moment, my bet would be that you have a setting mistake in the display.


--------------------------------------


To check that /24 is really working, go to the end credits scroll in a typical Blu-Ray movie. Have the Oppo set at 1080p/24 Auto and make sure the Anthem is receiving /24 from the Oppo. Set up separate 1080p/60 and 1080p/24 Video Output configurations in the Anthem (don't use Frame Lock for this test). Then compare 1080p/60 output from the Anthem vs. 1080p/24 Output from the Anthem.


With /60 the credit scroll will likely show a slight ratcheting motion. It is so subtle that you will easily miss it unless you are looking for it -- that's true cadence judder. Now switch to /24 and see if that goes away and the credit scroll becomes smooth.


Note, if whatever you are seeing in "Flyboys" is more dramatic than the slight ratcheting you see in the credit scroll at /60, then what you are seeing is NOT cadence judder. It is something else, like the much more dramatic stuttering that comes from trying to force video-based content into /24. Or motion judder.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17496781
> 
> 
> First make sure you are actually getting /24 in and out. Check Video Source Adjust > Info. You may have a setting mistake.
> 
> 
> Next, be aware that there are settings in the Pioneer display which prevent it from switching into 72Hz refresh. I don't know which settings, but I know they exist. Perhaps someone with your display can help on that or you can check on the owner's thread. If you feed /24 into the display and it is still stuck in /60 screen refresh, it's own frame rate conversion may not be as good as that done by either the Oppo or the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Finally, understand that "cadence judder" is not the only reason motion might not be smooth in a movie. The most common additional reason is "motion judder" caused by the fact that the 24 frames per second film speed is not really fast enough to capture all sorts of motion smoothly. Film makers are well aware of this and take steps to avoid trying to film things in a way that will show that -- but sometimes they deliberately leave motion judder in the film for artistic effect. And sometimes they just aren't careful enough.
> 
> 
> And in that case, using /24 can actually have the effect of showing motion judder more than /60, because /60 kind of blurs it a bit. Here's an interesting article that talks about the down-side of using /24. Be sure to read the comments that follow it as well, as some of the suggestions he makes --- such as using frame interpolation in newer displays -- are controversial to say the least:
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/judder_24p.htm
> 
> 
> At the moment, my bet would be that you have a setting mistake in the display.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> To check that /24 is really working, go to the end credits scroll in a typical Blu-Ray movie. Have the Oppo set at 1080p/24 Auto and make sure the Anthem is receiving /24 from the Oppo. Set up separate 1080p/60 and 1080p/24 Video Output configurations in the Anthem (don't use Frame Lock for this test). Then compare 1080p/60 output from the Anthem vs. 1080p/24 Output from the Anthem.
> 
> 
> With /60 the credit scroll will likely show a slight ratcheting motion. It is so subtle that you will easily miss it unless you are looking for it -- that's true cadence judder. Now switch to /24 and see if that goes away and the credit scroll becomes smooth.
> 
> 
> Note, if whatever you are seeing in "Flyboys" is more dramatic than the slight ratcheting you see in the credit scroll at /60, then what you are seeing is NOT cadence judder. It is something else, like the much more dramatic stuttering that comes from trying to force video-based content into /24. Or motion judder.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I've checked my settings and confirmed input and output on the D2v and everything seems to be set properly. My TV is set to "advance" which is used to convert 24p to 72p.


I've tried the rolling credits on "The Hulk" and whether I have the Anthem set to 60 or 24, the credits both appear to roll relatively smoothly.


edit: I should add that Greg Loewen from Lion AV calibrated my TV.


----------



## bluemark81

Bob:


I posted this on the PS3 site, but I was referred to you here. I hate to continue bugging you, but hopefully, once I have everything set up properly, I won't have so many questions. Currently, I stream uncompressed WAV files from my laptop to the PS3. The PS3 is connected to my Anthem D2v. I'm wondering what Music Settings I should be using on the PS3 to produce the best audio.


There are 5 settings within the Music Settings folder. Currently, this is what is set on mine:


1. Audio CD Import = AAC 128 kbps;

2. Crossfade Playback = 3 secs;

3. Audio CD Output Frequency = 44.1/88.2/76.4 kHz;

4. Bitmapping = Type 3;

5. Dynamic Normalizer = On.


Thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17497131
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I posted this on the PS3 site, but I was referred to you here. I hate to continue bugging you, but hopefully, once I have everything set up properly, I won't have so many questions. Currently, I stream uncompressed WAV files from my laptop to the PS3. The PS3 is connected to my Anthem D2v. I'm wondering what Music Settings I should be using on the PS3 to produce the best audio.
> 
> 
> There are 5 settings within the Music Settings folder. Currently, this is what is set on mine:
> 
> 
> 1. Audio CD Import = AAC 128 kbps;
> 
> 2. Crossfade Playback = 3 secs;
> 
> 3. Audio CD Output Frequency = 44.1/88.2/76.4 kHz;
> 
> 4. Bitmapping = Type 3;
> 
> 5. Dynamic Normalizer = On.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



Personally I'd turn Dynamic Normalizer OFF, but it has no effect on playback from music discs -- only for media files you import or stream.


The other settings are fine. The Import setting is the usual tradeoff between quality and how much disc space imports consume. The higher bit rates take more space and have better quality.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17497060
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I've checked my settings and confirmed input and output on the D2v and everything seems to be set properly. My TV is set to "advance" which is used to convert 24p to 72p.
> 
> 
> I've tried the rolling credits on "The Hulk" and whether I have the Anthem set to 60 or 24, the credits both appear to roll relatively smoothly.
> 
> 
> edit: I should add that Greg Loewen from Lion AV calibrated my TV.



Well I can't point you at a good Blu-Ray to try because I don't have a 1080p/24 setup. But if you can't see a smoothness difference in the credit scrolls between 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 then either you have a display settings error, or the display is smoothing out the /60 input, or you just haven't looked hard enough. Cadence judder is not dramatic, it is subtle. In the credit scroll it will look like a slight ratcheting upwards of the text -- smooth and constant motion but ratcheting -- as opposed to completely smooth.


The settings mistake I have in mind in the Pioneer display is something that disables "Advanced" even though you have "Advanced" set. I'm sorry, but I just don't recall what it was. It was something silly like if you have some sort of image enhancement or frame geometry adjustment turned on it stops doing the "Advanced" 72Hz refresh rate. Some other Pioneer owner is going to have to chime in on this.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/17495081
> 
> 
> I downloaded and installed. It was probably the best one I ever did. It was 1-2-3.
> 
> 
> It worked just like Bob said it would.



I also had no problems with the download (XP-SP3, Serial).


I have one problem that has reappeared with this version - when I go to the menu and then return the colors are messed up (looks like a negative) and I have to go back to a different input and return.


Luckily, I rarely go to the menu as I ahve everything pretty much set up like i want.


Mike


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17497321
> 
> 
> Personally I'd turn Dynamic Normalizer OFF, but it has no effect on playback from music discs -- only for media files you import or stream.
> 
> 
> The other settings are fine. The Import setting is the usual tradeoff between quality and how much disc space imports consume. The higher bit rates take more space and have better quality.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


The highest bit rate on the PS3 is 320 kbps. If I set it to this, supposedly my steamed media files would sound better?


How does this take more space on the PS3 if I'm streaming from my pc?


Thanks,


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17497333
> 
> 
> Well I can't point you at a good Blu-Ray to try because I don't have a 1080p/24 setup. But if you can't see a smoothness difference in the credit scrolls between 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 then either you have a display settings error, or the display is smoothing out the /60 input, or you just haven't looked hard enough. Cadence judder is not dramatic, it is subtle. In the credit scroll it will look like a slight ratcheting upwards of the text -- smooth and constant motion but ratcheting -- as opposed to completely smooth.
> 
> 
> The settings mistake I have in mind in the Pioneer display is something that disables "Advanced" even though you have "Advanced" set. I'm sorry, but I just don't recall what it was. It was something silly like if you have some sort of image enhancement or frame geometry adjustment turned on it stops doing the "Advanced" 72Hz refresh rate. Some other Pioneer owner is going to have to chime in on this.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I would say that both 60 and 24 have the same very slight ratcheting you refer to, but it is very slight.


----------



## Texas steve

Are you using two HDMI's outs of the D2v? Or are you splitting to two displays? I have the same "negative" look and I think its because one of my TVs is 720 (up to 1080i) and the Projector is 1080P.


I come out of my Satellite receiver, split the HDMI, with one going to the 720P and the other going into the D2v to be feed to the Projector.


Once in a while my 720P Tv will get the "negative" (usually preceded by "does not support this format). I then have to disconnect from the splitter, and plug it back in and all works.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/17497483
> 
> 
> I have one problem that has reappeared with this version - when I go to the menu and then return the colors are messed up (looks like a negative) and I have to go back to a different input and return.
> 
> 
> Luckily, I rarely go to the menu as I ahve everything pretty much set up like i want.
> 
> 
> Mike


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17497333
> 
> 
> Well I can't point you at a good Blu-Ray to try because I don't have a 1080p/24 setup. But if you can't see a smoothness difference in the credit scrolls between 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 then either you have a display settings error, or the display is smoothing out the /60 input, or you just haven't looked hard enough. Cadence judder is not dramatic, it is subtle. In the credit scroll it will look like a slight ratcheting upwards of the text -- smooth and constant motion but ratcheting -- as opposed to completely smooth.
> 
> 
> The settings mistake I have in mind in the Pioneer display is something that disables "Advanced" even though you have "Advanced" set. I'm sorry, but I just don't recall what it was. It was something silly like if you have some sort of image enhancement or frame geometry adjustment turned on it stops doing the "Advanced" 72Hz refresh rate. Some other Pioneer owner is going to have to chime in on this.
> 
> --Bob



As it turns out, it seems as though turning Pure Cinema (advanced) off in my Pioneer so that it is displaying at 60p and setting my Anthem to output 60p as opposed to 24p is the best setup for me. Picture appears to be smoother for whatever reason.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/17497483
> 
> 
> I also had no problems with the download (XP-SP3, Serial).
> 
> 
> I have one problem that has reappeared with this version - when I go to the menu and then return the colors are messed up (looks like a negative) and I have to go back to a different input and return.
> 
> 
> Luckily, I rarely go to the menu as I ahve everything pretty much set up like i want.
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike, try using an explicit Setup > Video Output > Data format instead of Auto. YCbCr 4:4:4 is the default for HDMI to HDMI connections.


This will simplify the new handshake when you exit the Setup menu and may eliminate this problem.


If this happens (when exiting Setup) while using one particular Source device, also look for a setting in that Source to set an explicit data format for output to the Anthem instead of Auto.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17497690
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I would say that both 60 and 24 have the same very slight ratcheting you refer to, but it is very slight.



That suggests to me that "Advanced" is not actually taking effect in your Pioneer. I'm sorry, but I just can't remember what the magic setting combo was for the Pioneers to avoid this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17497677
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> The highest bit rate on the PS3 is 320 kbps. If I set it to this, supposedly my steamed media files would sound better?
> 
> 
> How does this take more space on the PS3 if I'm streaming from my pc?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



That setting in the PS3 only applies when you are ripping CDs to its internal hard drive. The bit rate for your streamed files will be set by how they were recorded.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17498551
> 
> 
> That setting in the PS3 only applies when you are ripping CDs to its internal hard drive. The bit rate for your streamed files will be set by how they were recorded.
> 
> --Bob



OK, I'm gonna sound like a total moron here, but you can actually rip directly to the PS3's hard drive?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17498739
> 
> 
> OK, I'm gonna sound like a total moron here, but you can actually rip directly to the PS3's hard drive?


 http://manuals.playstation.net/docum.../cdimport.html 


--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Tried to program v2.08 several times, including Flash Erasure several times...

No dice...extremely frustrating indeed







. Now, I have had 2 video boards that can't output audio and video after the programming fails. I used the Keyspan adapter(USB-19HS) and downloaded the latest USB drivers and Windows updates from the manufacturers' sites.


Have serial port settings of my Windows Vista 32 laptop set at:


BR = 9600

Bits = 8

Parity = None

Stopbit = 1 and 2 (tried both with no success)

Flow control = None


It also seems that Anthem is at a loss on how to solve this problem based on my conversations with them last week.


I paid lots of $$$ for this processor but to be bricked by a simple FW upload via a cheap serial cable is just ridiculous and makes me very angry










Sorry guys...end of rant.


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17499774
> 
> 
> Tried to program v2.08 several times, including Flash Erasure several times...
> 
> No dice...extremely frustrating indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now, I have had 2 video boards that can't output audio and video after the programming fails. I used the Keyspan adapter(USB-19HS) and downloaded the latest USB drivers and Windows updates from the manufacturers' sites.
> 
> 
> Have serial port settings of my Windows Vista 32 laptop set at:
> 
> 
> BR = 9600
> 
> Bits = 8
> 
> Parity = None
> 
> Stopbit = 1 and 2 (tried both with no success)
> 
> Flow control = None
> 
> 
> It also seems that Anthem is at a loss on how to solve this problem based on my conversations with them last week.
> 
> 
> I paid lots of $$$ for this processor but to be bricked by a simple FW upload via a cheap serial cable is just ridiculous and makes me very angry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry guys...end of rant.



Can you get your hands on a XP based computer?


I had to many times, do this in past, as Vista/windows 7 did not work nice..


I would try the XP computer with 1.07 first, then, if that failes, use the flash eraser (get newest version from Support site), then try firmware again..



Hope this helps...


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17494575
> 
> 
> *RANT*
> 
> 
> Sorry to keep b*tching, but why in the world did Anthem choose to use an old technology (serial port) that requires a forum like this (with expert advice) to do something as simple as updating firmware?
> 
> 
> Why not simply use ethernet, wifi, or even USB? Were serial ports all the rage with the fifty and up crowd over at Anthem R&D? Were they also considering punch cards for the updates?
> 
> 
> *END OF RANT*



I asked the same question a long time ago - and it was pointed out that Anthem uses the serial interface for a lot more than updating. It is also used for things like control interfaces (Crestron etc.).


Wifi would be a total disaster. I own a Logitech Squeezebox and the top issues on their forums are around wifi.


I do agree that serial is goofy in 2009 for an UPDATE mechanism. PCs are basically not sold anywhere on the planet with serial adapters - and the USB serial adapters which should ALL be dead simple are all over the map.


I think USB would be the best - it's uber-reliable and supported on all modern operating systems. They can keep the serial interface for control, but give us a more ubiquitous interface for updating.


Plus, USB is CHEAP.


----------



## duckwood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17499774
> 
> 
> Tried to program v2.08 several times, including Flash Erasure several times...
> 
> No dice...extremely frustrating indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now, I have had 2 video boards that can't output audio and video after the programming fails. I used the Keyspan adapter(USB-19HS) and downloaded the latest USB drivers and Windows updates from the manufacturers' sites.
> 
> 
> Have serial port settings of my Windows Vista 32 laptop set at:
> 
> 
> BR = 9600
> 
> Bits = 8
> 
> Parity = None
> 
> Stopbit = 1 and 2 (tried both with no success)
> 
> Flow control = None
> 
> 
> It also seems that Anthem is at a loss on how to solve this problem based on my conversations with them last week.
> 
> 
> I paid lots of $$$ for this processor but to be bricked by a simple FW upload via a cheap serial cable is just ridiculous and makes me very angry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry guys...end of rant.



Have you tried running the update in compatibility Mode? You can do this by right clicking and setting it under the properties. How far does the install get?


Also, did you have all of the HDMI ports disconnected or did you disconnect the power from the connected devices? Even if they are turned off, the HDMI port may have power for HDMI control. I know if I just turn off my Pioneer plasma from the remote it will not work. If I hard switch it off (with the pushbutton switch) it works fine. I also kill power from every other HDMI device...cablebox xbox ps3 dvd.....


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/17499802
> 
> 
> Can you get your hands on a XP based computer?
> 
> 
> I had to many times, do this in past, as Vista/windows 7 did not work nice..
> 
> 
> I would try the XP computer with 1.07 first, then, if that failes, use the flash eraser (get newest version from Support site), then try firmware again..
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps...



At this point, I'd have to buy one







...


----------



## duckwood

So I installed 2.08 tonight and still face an issue that I've had all along. Channel changing pop. I have the motorola 7216 1 box from Verizon. When I switch channels I sometimes get the pop...other times I do not. I know this is covered in the manual, and under the source setup I have muting set to max. I've tried min as well to see if the popping happened more, and I didn't notice it any more. I would think some other people would see this pop as well? Its not a major problem, as perhaps it happens 1 time out of 10 changes. This is connected via HDMI. I haven't tried optical.


Any thoughts?


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17500071
> 
> 
> At this point, I'd have to buy one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Maybe you can find a copy of VMWARE (to simulate a virtual environment in which you can install any operating system you want.)


Just a thought to try without buying a new system..


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/17500256
> 
> 
> Maybe you can find a copy of VMWARE (to simulate a virtual environment in which you can install any operating system you want.)
> 
> 
> Just a thought to try without buying a new system..



Thanks M...I'll give it a try


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17494722
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Numerous people have reported over the past few months that the procedure I've been having folks do to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level to 75dB was yielding an ARC solution a chunk higher than that.
> 
> 
> Well I've found the same thing in this redo.
> 
> 
> In fact the error is precisely 6dB. The 75dB Test Level setting found with the SPL meter needs to be lowered 6dB to get ARC to produce a 75dB solution.
> 
> 
> That sounds suspiciously like the standard 6dB difference between the RCA and XLR outputs (I'm using RCA). I suspect this is simply a bug in the way ARC interprets the Test Level setting.
> 
> 
> Lowering Test Level 6dB (from a -2.0 to a -8.0 setting in my case) resulted in the 75dB ARC solution shown in the charts here. And the volume level produced by this solution when playing real content is where I expect it to be, so I think ARC really has generated a 75dB solution.
> 
> 
> ARC applied a 115Hz cutoff to the subwoofer for both Movie and Music. However the Uploaded subwoofer crossover is 90Hz for Movie and 65Hz for Music. Both solutions sound great so far.
> 
> 
> I'll send an email to Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Bob: will we need to redo the ARC measrements to fix this? Or Can it be fixed after you've measured? Does it actually make a difference what the target volume is?


----------



## dvcdude

Has anyone tried to do a firmware update to 2.08 using win 7 with a serial card? I built an HTPC in June and installed a serial card so that I would not have any problems with firmware updates. of course I also upgraded my Vista Ultimate 64 to Win 7 home premium 64







, so now I am concerned about trying to do the firmware update. Since I have very few programs installed on this PC I could reinstall Vista. Any recommendations here?


----------



## dherrick

I have a new D2v with firmware version 2.07, haven't updated to 2.08 yet. I am having problems trying to route multichannel audio from ether my cable box (coax audio input) or SACD/DVD-A (HDMI input) to Zone 2.


Section 4.3 of the operating manual states that to route digital only connections to Zone 2 a manual copy must be used. I copy Main to Zone2 (simultaneouly pressing the Main and Zone 2 buttons) and cannot get any output in my Zone 2 speakers of a multi-channel source. CD, Tuner and any 2 channel source work fine and TV audio from a station that is not multi-channel also work fine. However any 5.1 audio from a HD station does not.


Am I doing something wrong? Do I have something setup incorrectly? Does ver 2.08 address this issue? Any assistance is welcome.



Thanks


----------



## WildZero




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17494722
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> In fact the error is precisely 6dB. The 75dB Test Level setting found with the SPL meter needs to be lowered 6dB to get ARC to produce a 75dB solution.
> 
> 
> That sounds suspiciously like the standard 6dB difference between the RCA and XLR outputs (I'm using RCA). I suspect this is simply a bug in the way ARC interprets the Test Level setting.
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> --Bob



This is very interesting! I am currently working on the basic setup (my first D2v was dead on arrival with a defective video board).

I am using XLR to the fronts and RCA for the remaining speakers, could this cause a problem for ARC measurements?


Thanks!


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17492369
> 
> 
> 
> What's new is that Frame Lock AUTO will now also enable the extraction of the original /24 stream from 1080i/60 (and soon from 480i/60) input that happens to be film-based. E.g., HDTV movies.
> 
> 
> --Bob



I have the Oppo and a D2 going into a Sony Black Pearl. I have had success setting the Oppo to upconvert regular dvd to 1080p24 without significant stuttering. It actually looks smoother in many movies (for example the initial fight scene in LOTR fellowship of the ring) with only occasionally dropping a frame or 2. This is compared to the Oppo putting out 480i into the D2 and then outputting 1080p/60 from the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17500629
> 
> 
> Bob: will we need to redo the ARC measrements to fix this? Or Can it be fixed after you've measured? Does it actually make a difference what the target volume is?



To fix it you would have to re-Measure for ARC.


Fortunately the error is in the safer direction -- ARC's resulting volume is too high.


(If instead, ARC's volume were too low, the odds would be greater that it wouldn't clearly hear everything it needs to hear while Measuring so the resulting solution might not be as good as it could be. In addition, you'd have even more retries during Measurement as ARC would be even more sensitive to ambient noise interfering with the Measurement test ones.)


So it doesn't have to be fixed. There's nothing magical about playing at reference volume levels, and of course if you lower your main volume knob from -10dB to -16dB while playing stuff you'll be back at 75dB anyway. Lots of folks play much or even all of their stuff at lower than 75dB as they find even 75dB too loud for pleasant listening.


One thing to watch out for is that if the red Measured curves show quite high peaks for some of the speakers, then the fact that ARC is testing at higher volume may mean the audio it Measures for those peaks may not be quite so clean -- perhaps due to buzzes/rattles in your room, and perhaps due to the way the speaker's response varies at higher volume.


---------------------------------------------------


Commercial movie theaters are set up so that "reference level" audio from movie tracks yields 85dB SPL. This is set a bit high to help cover audience noise. Peak levels in movie tracks can easily be 15dB higher than that. And individual movie mixes will have more or less audio designed in the mixing to be above "reference" levels, so different movies will sound louder or softer even in the same theater.


85dB is almost always considered to be too high for home theater use. It can be more tiring listening to stuff that loud, and there's really no need to do so, since you don't have the same sort of audience noise. So the usual recommendation is to set up a home theater for 75dB.


What's supposed to happen is that the process of first setting Test Level for 75dB SPL (all other volume trims at 0dB), and then setting the individual volume trims for 75dB SPL using that given Test Level, means that "reference level" audio from various sources will yield 75dB SPL when the volume knob on your Anthem is set to -10dB.


Then, if you really want to experience an 85dB setup, all you have to do is raise main volume on your Anthem from -10dB to 0dB.


NOTE: Your current main volume setting is ignored WHILE you are setting the volume trims in Setup > Level Calibration or while you are doing ARC Measurements. But the results you set that way are designed to correspond to what you'll get with a main volume setting of -10dB during normal listening.


To maintain that same scheme, ARC is supposed to use your current Test Level setting when building its solution so that you get the same basic volume level out of ARC that you set with your manual speaker setup. So if you set Test Level for 75dB SPL, then ARC's solution should also end up at 75dB.


NOTE: If your speakers need large amounts of relative volume trim -- particularly if your subwoofer's internal volume setting has not already been pre-set so that ARC hears it as already roughly in balance with the other speakers, ARC may need to shift the basic volume level of its solution up or down so that it can still get all the speakers into proper volume-trimmed balance with each other while staying within the range limits available for the volume trim settings in Level Calibration.


------------------------------------------------


And all this worked just this way back in March. I'm not sure precisely when it changed.


Today, there appears to be a simple bug where if you set Test Level for 75dB, ARC builds a solution 6dB higher than that.

*The workaround is to use your SPL meter to find the Test Level setting that yields 75dB SPL just as before, AND THEN SET YOUR SUBWOOFER'S VOLUME KNOB USING *THAT* TEST LEVEL, and then, finally, reduce that Test Level setting by 6dB before doing your ARC Measurements. Remember to zero all your other volume trims before setting Test Level and adjusting your subwoofer's internal volume knob.*


NOTE: Given how SPL meters vary in accuracy near the ends of each testing range, and that the Radio Shack meter is normally used at the 70dB range for this stuff, setting Test Level for 75dB and then manually reducing that setting 6dB lower will be more accurate than just setting it for 69dB to begin with.


Of course the test tones in Level Calibration will no longer yield 75dB when you do that, but the resulting solution ARC Uploads will be at 75dB and that's all that really matters.


Again, if you want to leave your ARC results at 81dB -- i.e., to not redo things just to fix this -- that's almost certainly just fine. You can just play stuff at a lower main volume setting.


But if you are going to re-Measure for ARC anyway, you can adjust Test Level this way first.


You'll know that things are working correctly if the basic volume level of your ARC solution ends up at 75dB. That's the volume of the flat part of the black, dashed Target curve lines in the mid frequencies to the right of the Room Gain hump on your ARC charts.


If you do this and then go back to see what you get from the test tones in the Level Calibration menu after your ARC Upload, they will still be off. Don't worry about that. Leave the settings in there just as ARC set them.


-----------------------------------


Eventually this bug will be fixed. Your current ARC solution should continue to work just as now when that happens. I.e., most likely you won't have to re-Measure for ARC right away.


However, when you do decide to re-Measure for ARC you will need to go back and reset Test Level to where it's supposed to be (75dB SPL) while zeroing the other volume trims. Also re-check the volume knob setting in your subwoofer still yields 75dB SPL. Then do your new ARC Measurement. The new ARC solution will again be at 75dB.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/17501794
> 
> 
> This is very interesting! I am currently working on the basic setup (my first D2v was dead on arrival with a defective video board).
> 
> I am using XLR to the fronts and RCA for the remaining speakers, could this cause a problem for ARC measurements?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



By design, XLR and RCA connections have a 6dB volume (voltage) difference. Some amps have a selector switch on their XLR inputs that adjusts this as some people run an RCA feed line to an RCA/XLR adaptor at the amp end.


But in the normal setting at the amp the XLR input should yield the same results as the corresponding RCA input -- i.e., the amp already knows to make this adjustment between the two types of input.


Even if that doesn't happen, all that means is that you'd need a 6dB volume trim difference between the speakers hooked up these two different ways.


So no, there shouldn't be a problem so long as ARC doesn't run up against the limits of available volume trim.


You can use the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration to see what sort of volume trims are necessary to balance your speakers. If a large trim is needed for some speakers, check to see if there's an input selector setting in your amp that might correct that. ARC will, of course, make the final settings for your volume trims.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/17501857
> 
> 
> I have the Oppo and a D2 going into a Sony Black Pearl. I have had success setting the Oppo to upconvert regular dvd to 1080p24 without significant stuttering. It actually looks smoother in many movies (for example the initial fight scene in LOTR fellowship of the ring) with only occasionally dropping a frame or 2. This is compared to the Oppo putting out 480i into the D2 and then outputting 1080p/60 from the D2.



Yes the Oppo has a good solution for converting 480i/60 film-based movies to 1080p/24.


Anthem is still working on their own solution for that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/17501504
> 
> 
> I have a new D2v with firmware version 2.07, haven't updated to 2.08 yet. I am having problems trying to route multichannel audio from ether my cable box (coax audio input) or SACD/DVD-A (HDMI input) to Zone 2.
> 
> 
> Section 4.3 of the operating manual states that to route digital only connections to Zone 2 a manual copy must be used. I copy Main to Zone2 (simultaneouly pressing the Main and Zone 2 buttons) and cannot get any output in my Zone 2 speakers of a multi-channel source. CD, Tuner and any 2 channel source work fine and TV audio from a station that is not multi-channel also work fine. However any 5.1 audio from a HD station does not.
> 
> 
> Am I doing something wrong? Do I have something setup incorrectly? Does ver 2.08 address this issue? Any assistance is welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



Section 4.3 of the manual says that down-mixing to stereo for Main copied to Zone 2 does not work for HDMI audio input.


Try using Optical/Coax digital audio from your cable/satellite HD box. Set the cable/satellite box for "bitstream" output rather than PCM. You'll get the identical type and quality of audio as over HDMI.


For video, you can continue to use HDMI from that box or you can switch to Component video input -- which also eliminates HDMI handshakes.


By the way, you can turn on Main copied to Zone 2 for audio in the Setup menu as well, which eliminates having to do it manually as you are doing now.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude* /forum/post/17500682
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried to do a firmware update to 2.08 using win 7 with a serial card? I built an HTPC in June and installed a serial card so that I would not have any problems with firmware updates. of course I also upgraded my Vista Ultimate 64 to Win 7 home premium 64
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , so now I am concerned about trying to do the firmware update. Since I have very few programs installed on this PC I could reinstall Vista. Any recommendations here?



Try using Windows 7 in XP compatibility mode.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duckwood* /forum/post/17500077
> 
> 
> So I installed 2.08 tonight and still face an issue that I've had all along. Channel changing pop. I have the motorola 7216 1 box from Verizon. When I switch channels I sometimes get the pop...other times I do not. I know this is covered in the manual, and under the source setup I have muting set to max. I've tried min as well to see if the popping happened more, and I didn't notice it any more. I would think some other people would see this pop as well? Its not a major problem, as perhaps it happens 1 time out of 10 changes. This is connected via HDMI. I haven't tried optical.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?



Try switching to Optical digital audio. I suspect this a problem in the HDMI implementation in that box. Optical audio (set to "bitstream" output) will give you identical type and quality of audio as HDMI from your HDTV box.


You can continue to use HDMI for video or also switch to Component -- which will eliminate HDMI handshakes.

--Bob


----------



## dherrick

Bob,


Actually I am using digital coax from the cable box to D2v. I have a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD which while it worked with my AVM50 over HDMI, has never worked with the D2v over HDMI. Evidently there is an issue with it communicating with the HDMI 1.3 capable D2v. So, at your previous suggestion, I have it connected via component video and digital coax audio.


I don't set it automatically copy Main to Zone2 as I do occassionally play separate sources in each zone.


Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/17502354
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Actually I am using digital coax from the cable box to D2v. I have a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD which while it worked with my AVM50 over HDMI, has never worked with the D2v over HDMI. Evidently there is an issue with it communicating with the HDMI 1.3 capable D2v. So, at your previous suggestion, I have it connected via component video and digital coax audio.
> 
> 
> I don't set it automatically copy Main to Zone2 as I do occassionally play separate sources in each zone.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



I can't think of anything obvious you are doing wrong here. The Main path is showing your are receiving DD5.1 input, right? And silence on the Zone 2 output?


You should probably email the details to Anthem tech support. Make sure you tell them you are using Optical audio input and Component video input. This may be a new bug.


Try using the "always" Copy setting in Setup just in case the bug turns out to be limited to manual Copy.

--Bob


----------



## dherrick

Bob,


Yes, when the display shows 5.1 on the Main path, I get silence in Zone 2, when it shows Anthem-Logic or Stereo, I get sound.


Thanks for correcting me on the HDMI limitation, I missed it the first time. I'll reconfigure my audio input from my Oppo BDP-83 to use digital coax for the audio input for SACD/DVD-A.


I will also email Anthem to alert them of this.


----------



## lesterjd

Hello to everyone here and could anybody help with a quick answer to my question. In two weeks time I'm getting the Anthem Rep to demo the AVM50v, I know the D2v is probably better but my only other contender was going to be the Nad M15HD and that's really hard to hear over in the UK because all the unit's seem to go straight to Customer Installs. So the question is ... before you heard the Anthem, did you demo the Nad M15HD or any another processor and what was it about the Anthem which made you choose it? I would just like to hear your views on this.



Regards Lesterjd


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17489964
> 
> 
> Watched Star Trek 2009 today and got 3 audio dropouts, none of which were repeatable. I was bitstreaming from my Oppo BD-83. I guess I will email oppo and of course Nick. As Bob has mentioned many times, these dropouts are usually player related. But the odd time they are DSP related as was Dark Knight.
> 
> John



Greetings,


I had two as well..



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17503739
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I had two as well..
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



It would be interesting to have the two of you compare time codes for your dropouts.

--Bob


----------



## dvcdude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17502187
> 
> 
> Try using Windows 7 in XP compatibility mode.
> 
> --Bob



unfortunately, I purchased Win 7 Home Premium. XP compatibility mode starts at professional level.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lesterjd* /forum/post/17503200
> 
> 
> Hello to everyone here and could anybody help with a quick answer to my question. In two weeks time I'm getting the Anthem Rep to demo the AVM50v, I know the D2v is probably better but my only other contender was going to be the Nad M15HD and that's really hard to hear over in the UK because all the unit's seem to go straight to Customer Installs. So the question is ... before you heard the Anthem, did you demo the Nad M15HD or any another processor and what was it about the Anthem which made you choose it? I would just like to hear your views on this.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards Lesterjd



I had installed and heard several T175 of NAD and I personally own the AVM50v. I have heard several M series NAD products and they are great but not as good as the D2(previous owner also). The T175 has more serious bugs than the Anthem products. To get firmware updates ,one has to go to the dealer to do it. Customer support alone would leave NAD in the dust.


For me, products made in North America as still generally better than products assembled in China. Nothing against China, maybe in 5 more years they will be at par.


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17494575
> 
> 
> Section 3.15 of my manual does not include any information except "the virtual port must be assigned to COM1-COM6."
> 
> 
> Not one word about Bits per second, Data Bits, Parity, Stop Bits, or Flow Control.
> 
> 
> *RANT*
> 
> 
> Sorry to keep b*tching, but why in the world did Anthem choose to use an old technology (serial port) that requires a forum like this (with expert advice) to do something as simple as updating firmware?
> 
> 
> Why not simply use ethernet, wifi, or even USB? Were serial ports all the rage with the fifty and up crowd over at Anthem R&D? Were they also considering punch cards for the updates?
> 
> 
> *END OF RANT*



------------------------------------------------

Hi Michael_V and friends.


Sorry to hear of your issues. In this case though, I support Anthem in their choice of using a Serial Port. Unfortunately, many laptops continue to move away from inclusion of serial ports. If we talk about their strengths, USB is user friendly. Serial in most cases are easy to set up, in some cases there are compatibility issues to work through - but with Serial Ports, once you get it working it never fails. Throughout most of my work with electronics, serial is still the choice where reliability is critical. USB's dynamicism can cause issues when you are performing a critical and volatile operation such as re-writing device firmware to EEPROM. With some units, adding a dock or port replicator gives a solid and reliable serial interface... Expansion cards and adapters can be tricky. I can never recommend wi-fi as a vessel for re-programming firmware. It is far too unreliable and the consequences (bricking) too high. It could only work as some IBM devices do - provide extra memory registers to first take a full copy of the firmware transferred over whatever media have you, then execute upgrade of the unit from the spare registers to the live ones. It will be interesting to see if a change develops in this area.


Fortunately for me, I've just upgraded from 2.07 to 2.08 with no issues.


Good Luck,

Mike


----------



## fuzzybk

Updated to firmware 2.08 with no problems via my Keyspan USB to serial adapter. Can't wait to hear Monsters Inc, UP and Heat.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

After more listening time I'm convinced my latest ARC setup is my best yet. My challenging Center speaker in particular has never sounded better. I might even need to consider putting my Center back into my Music configuration!

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17505660
> 
> 
> After more listening time I'm convinced my latest ARC setup is my best yet. My challenging Center speaker in particular has never sounded better. I might even need to consider putting my Center back into my Music configuration!
> 
> --Bob



Don't tease me!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/17500256
> 
> 
> Maybe you can find a copy of VMWARE (to simulate a virtual environment in which you can install any operating system you want.)
> 
> 
> Just a thought to try without buying a new system..



Well muad'dib, I installed VMWARE and run Windows XP SP3 on it fine. Sadly, the firmware upload failed again in a similar manner







. Anthem believes the problem could be with the pre-pro's motherboard, so I have my 50v packed up and will ship to Canada for repair. A frustratingly real bummer indeed as the Anthem is the center of my audio universe in my setup. I've had to unpack my old 20+ year old NAD pre-amp to temporarily fill in the gap.


As a consolation prize, I decided to upgrade the audio board of my Oppo BDP-83 to the new one they released today. A little shopping therapy should help, right?


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17494780
> 
> 
> It likely means your previous attempts to do the install have left the hardware in a state where it isn't able to accept a new install attempt.
> 
> 
> Anthem has a Windows PC utility program called Flash Eraser which forces all the programmable parts into the right state to accept a new install.
> 
> 
> Give Anthem Tech Support a call on Monday and they can walk you through the process. It's not hard.
> 
> 
> The Anthem Tech Support people are good folks. They'll get you up and running again.
> 
> --Bob



No response from Anthem Tech Support despite phone calls and email. Anyone have this Flash Eraser?


----------



## Kensmith48

I'm trying to find out what version my ARC cd is. It's not stated on the cd or in the download. Is v2.3 the only version or is there something older? As long as I'm asking: How do I tell what version I have?


----------



## perioms




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17507065
> 
> 
> No response from Anthem Tech Support despite phone calls and email. Anyone have this Flash Eraser?



The same here. No response from Tech Support regarding my problem to upgrade the firmware. That`s very disappointing, because one reason for me to buy one Anthem unit was the promised good service, discussed at this forum. I came from PixelmagicSystems (Crystalio2), but the problems (support) seems to be the same.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17507202
> 
> 
> I'm trying to find out what version my ARC cd is. It's not stated on the cd or in the download. Is v2.3 the only version or is there something older? As long as I'm asking: How do I tell what version I have?



Yes, there are older version, but all new units should now be shipping with ARC V2.3.


In any event, you can insert the ARC install CD -- just cancel out of the ARC installer if it starts up -- go to My Computer and navigate into the folder on the CD and find the Anthem Room Correction application in there. Right-click on it and select Properties and you'll be able to view its version number.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17507209
> 
> 
> The same here. No response from Tech Support regarding my problem to upgrade the firmware. That`s very disappointing, because one reason for me to buy one Anthem unit was the promised good service, discussed at this forum. I came from PixelmagicSystems (Crystalio2), but the problems (support) seems to be the same.



In your case I believe the problem may be that they are waiting for an answer back from engineering regarding the video board that they had sent back to them from the other user who ran into this problem.


In Michael's case I suspect it is just a combo of Monday always being busy and Nick himself being on a business trip this week.


Things also always get busy in there right after a firmware release.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17507759
> 
> 
> Yes, there are older version, but all new units should now be shipping with ARC V2.3.
> 
> 
> In any event, you can insert the ARC install CD -- just cancel out of the ARC installer if it starts up -- go to My Computer and navigate into the folder on the CD and find the Anthem Room Correction application in there. Right-click on it and select Properties and you'll be able to view its version number.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I tried that and there is no information. I also looked in all the other folders. I posted a few pages back stating that I've had the ARC since last May and I'm just getting around to using (installing) it. You replied stating that there was a Windows upgrade that affects the ARC, but only for versions earlier than 2.3. I'm not aware of any other versions other than 2.3 so that's why I'm asking. I couldn't find anything on the Anthem website either (other than 2.3).

Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17508498
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I tried that and there is no information. I also looked in all the other folders. I posted a few pages back stating that I've had the ARC since last May and I'm just getting around to using (installing) it. You replied stating that there was a Windows upgrade that affects the ARC, but only for versions earlier than 2.3. I'm not aware of any other versions other than 2.3 so that's why I'm asking. I couldn't find anything on the Anthem website either (other than 2.3).
> 
> Ken



Are you sure you checked the right file? There's another file on the CD with the name Anthem Room Correction that contains setup information for the install. The file you want to check is the application itself, the .exe file. The Version should be one of the items you can view in its Properties.


----------------------------------------


In any event there's no need to puzzle on this. If you want to be sure, download the ARC V2.3 install kit from the Anthem web site, unzip it and open up the resulting folder to find the Setup.exe program (the installer).


Then insert your current ARC install CD -- just cancel out of the installer if it automatically starts -- and open up the CD in My Computer until you get to where the Setup.exe program is found on the CD. In that same location on the CD you will find your pair of licensing/calibration files. They have names made up of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC mic.


Drag BOTH of those files from the CD to the folder you downloaded from the Anthem web site -- the same place as the Setup.exe program in that downloaded folder.


Then close the CD window and eject the CD.


Then double click on the Setup.exe program in the folder you downloaded from the Anthem web site. It will install ARC V2.3 and put your pair of licensing/calibration files where they need to be.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17507209
> 
> 
> The same here. No response from Tech Support regarding my problem to upgrade the firmware. That`s very disappointing, because one reason for me to buy one Anthem unit was the promised good service, discussed at this forum. I came from PixelmagicSystems (Crystalio2), but the problems (support) seems to be the same.



I called up and talked with Piero fine yesterday and last week as well. He also answered my e-mails promptly as I have to ship my 3 month old AVM50v back for repair. Since Nick is gone all week, Piero has to shoulder all tech support calls plus e-mails to the best he can. As of yesterday AM, he told me he had 180+ new and unread emails in his inbox. I can only imagine what he has today







!!!


Please be patient with them. They will get back to you asap







.


----------



## thestewman

Bob


Can you please explain what it means when the audio status shows PCM

and 48 khz on the status screen.


My D2 displays this for DTS-HD Master Audio, Dolby® TrueHD Dolby and when playing HD audio tracks. I am trying to figure out how to tell when the audio being sent to the Anthem D2 is 192k.


Stew


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17506748
> 
> 
> As a consolation prize, I decided to upgrade the audio board of my Oppo BDP-83 to the new one they released today. A little shopping therapy should help, right?



Where can I find information about the audio board ?


----------



## Michael_V

Yep, got an email from Nick today!


----------



## triger716




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17509111
> 
> 
> Where can I find information about the audio board ?



I assume he is talking about THIS .


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *triger716* /forum/post/17509259
> 
> 
> I assume he is talking about THIS .



Thanks


Stew


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17509094
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Can you please explain what it means when the audio status shows PCM
> 
> and 48 khz on the status screen.
> 
> 
> My D2 displays this for DTS-HD Master Audio, Dolby® TrueHD Dolby and when playing HD audio tracks. I am trying to figure out how to tell when the audio being sent to the Anthem D2 is 192k.
> 
> 
> Stew



First, the D2 is not capable of 192KHz digital audio input. It is limited to up to 5.1 channels at up to 96KHz input. It upsamples the input to 192KHz prior to processing, and that's what gets sent to the DACs for conversion to analog for output to the speakers.


(The D2v is capable of up to 7.1 channels of digital audio input at up to 192KHz.)


When the Select button displays in your D2 say you are receiving LPCM of such and so channels at 48KHz, then that's what you are getting.


The player has taken whatever track you have selected for playback and converted it to that.


The player MAY be reverting to the lossy "compatibility" DD5.1 or DTS5.1 track to do that.


EXAMPLE: If you select a 7.1 DTS-HD MA 48KHz track on the player it will decode and simultaneously down-mix that to 5.1 channels of LPCM at 48KHz and that's what gets sent to the D2.


If you select a 7.1 DTS-HD MA 96KHz track on the player it will do the same thing and send 96KHz to the D2.


But the D2 can't receiver 192KHz. So what happens when you select a 192KHz track depends on the player and the particular nature of the source track. For example, for DTS-HD MA the player can decode that at 96KHz.


Or the player MIGHT revert to using the "core", lossy, DTS5.1 compatibility track (found embedded in the DTS-HD MA track for just such purposes) -- which it will ALSO decode and send out as 5.1 LPCM 48KHz -- just with not quite as good audio in that LPCM.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17509111
> 
> 
> Where can I find information about the audio board ?



Right now, the info that we have is a graphic of the assembled PCB and the main onboard DACs from ESS Technology.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Folks who are looking at the new Oppo BDP-83SE, be advised that if you use HDMI connection exclusively from the Oppo to your Anthem, there is no point in getting the 83SE.


It is ONLY for people who are using the analog connections from the Oppo (either stereo or multi-channel) -- perhaps in combo with the HDMI.


The changes in the 83SE -- even including the new power supply -- do not alter the quality of the digital processing in the player (audio or video) or the HDMI output of the player (audio or video). The two players run the same firmware.


For example, I have no intention to buy an 83SE (although that doesn't preclude possible beta testing with it).

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17509789
> 
> 
> First, the D2 is not capable of 192KHz digital audio input. It is limited to up to 5.1 channels at up to 96KHz input. It upsamples the input to 192KHz prior to processing, and that's what gets sent to the DACs for conversion to analog for output to the speakers.
> 
> 
> (The D2v is capable of up to 7.1 channels of digital audio input at up to 192KHz.)
> 
> 
> When the Select button displays in your D2 say you are receiving LPCM of such and so channels at 48KHz, then that's what you are getting.
> 
> 
> The player has taken whatever track you have selected for playback and converted it to that.
> 
> 
> The player MAY be reverting to the lossy "compatibility" DD5.1 or DTS5.1 track to do that.
> 
> 
> EXAMPLE: If you select a 7.1 DTS-HD MA 48KHz track on the player it will decode and simultaneously down-mix that to 5.1 channels of LPCM at 48KHz and that's what gets sent to the D2.
> 
> 
> If you select a 7.1 DTS-HD MA 96KHz track on the player it will do the same thing and send 96KHz to the D2.
> 
> 
> But the D2 can't receiver 192KHz. So what happens when you select a 192KHz track depends on the player and the particular nature of the source track. For example, for DTS-HD MA the player can decode that at 96KHz.
> 
> 
> Or the player MIGHT revert to using the "core", lossy, DTS5.1 compatibility track (found embedded in the DTS-HD MA track for just such purposes) -- which it will ALSO decode and send out as 5.1 LPCM 48KHz -- just with not quite as good audio in that LPCM.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Do BD disks have 192kh audio or the BD player sends the max. 96kh and d2v upsamples that to 192kh? I have Panasonic BD55 that send up to 96kh audio thru HDMI.

Thanks,


----------



## dvcdude

Has anyone used a netbook with the Keyspan to upgrade firmware. I have a Toshiba netbook running XP. I hate to think I have to use the least powerful computer in the house to upgrade with, but if it work I am anxious to get my 50v upgraded.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17510452
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Do BD disks have 192kh audio or the BD player sends the max. 96kh and d2v upsamples that to 192kh? I have Panasonic BD55 that send up to 96kh audio thru HDMI.
> 
> Thanks,



Most movie tracks, even the lossless tracks on BD, are 48KHz. (Some are 24 bits per sample, but some are still only 16 bits per sample).


Blu-Ray supports higher data rates for audio as well, but typically these are found on music discs rather than feature movies.


Check out the "2L" audio Blu-Rays on Amazon for example.


LPCM on Blu-Ray supports up to 7.1 192KHz.


TrueHD on Blu-Ray supports up to 7.1 192KHz.


DTS-HD MA on Blu-Ray supports 7.1 up to 96KHz, 5.1 and below up to 192KHz.


The D2v will accept and properly process all of those.


The Oppo will decode all of those with one exception: DTS-HD MA 5.1 on the Oppo is limited to 96KHz for decoding -- it will still bitstream the full 192KHz.


What any player sends to the D2v is the lesser of what the player supports and what the D2v supports. Since the D2v supports everything that you can get on Blu-Ray there are only player limits.


Anything the D2v receives which is less than 192KHz gets upsampled to 192KHz in the D2v prior to processing. And 192KHz is what gets sent to the D2v DACs for output.


---------------------------------------


The D2 on the other hand doesn't accept lossless bitstreams. You need a decoding player which will send LPCM. And the D2 is limited to no more than 5.1 channel input and no more than 96KHz input for that LPCM.


So the player has to down-mix 7.1 tracks to 5.1 and the player has to handle 192KHz tracks specially to output no more than 96KHz, or it has to switch to the lossy compatibility tracks.


Even though the D2 input is limited to 96KHz, it still upsamples to 192KHz prior to its processing. And the D2 (like the D2v) can raise audio input which is less than 7.1 channels to produce 7.1 speakers of output.


So you can, for example, send up to 5.1 LPCM 96KHz to the D2 and it will upsample that to 192KHz, raise that to 7.1 speakers (e.g., using PLIIx audio surround mode), and send 7.1 processed LPCM 192KHz to its DACs for output to the speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude* /forum/post/17511060
> 
> 
> Has anyone used a netbook with the Keyspan to upgrade firmware. I have a Toshiba netbook running XP. I hate to think I have to use the least powerful computer in the house to upgrade with, but if it work I am anxious to get my 50v upgraded.



It should work fine so long as you follow the usual precautions to make sure nothing else is running on it during the firmware install (e.g., no Windows Messenger or anything else).


Anthem HAS run into cases where computer makers actually modify Windows before putting it on their products and that can screw things up. But I think it's been a while since they ran into a case of that.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude* /forum/post/17511060
> 
> 
> Has anyone used a netbook with the Keyspan to upgrade firmware. I have a Toshiba netbook running XP. I hate to think I have to use the least powerful computer in the house to upgrade with, but if it work I am anxious to get my 50v upgraded.



yes i used my DELL mini with XP to do my upgrade. You don't need to worry about horsepower as there is not much for the netbook to do. It works just fine (and I also used the keyspan usb)


----------



## dvcdude

Thanks Bob and spiderv6 - Sorry to be the bothersome new guy, but I am very excited to get the upgrade installed and want to make sure I do it right. I will order the Keyspan and hopefully get upgraded by this weekend. Dave


----------



## erchn

Hi all,


I've been stalking here for a while, thx for all the great info. I have a question about the OSD. I'm using HDMI out, and after the most recent "reset to factory defaults" and run Arc, I've lost OSD altogether. I've tried looking at the Display settings in the main menu, and everything seems kosher, as well as restarting the unit a couple times, to no avail.


Any ideas?

thanks!

Ethan


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erchn* /forum/post/17512623
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I've been stalking here for a while, thx for all the great info. I have a question about the OSD. I'm using HDMI out, and after the most recent "reset to factory defaults" and run Arc, I've lost OSD altogether. I've tried looking at the Display settings in the main menu, and everything seems kosher, as well as restarting the unit a couple times, to no avail.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> thanks!
> 
> Ethan



There are three different parts to the on-screen display, and they are produced by different hardware. They are:


1) The character generator which puts up the text when you press the Select button or certain other buttons.


2) The Setup menu (an internally generated S-video Source), and


3) The Video Source Adjust menu (produced by the video board itself).


Did you lose all 3 or just 1 of those?


What model of Anthem processor do you have, and what firmware version are you running in it?


What version of ARC are you using?


------------------------------------------------


If you are using a D2v or AVM 50v, make sure your display is plugged into HDMI Output 1. HDMI Output 2 does not produce the on-screen displays.

--Bob


----------



## ravichopra

I'd been using my work laptop to update & run ARC for my AVM50, but a recent laptop upgrade has stripped me of a serial port. I bought an old IBM thinkpad ($64 delivered - no big cost) just for this (as well as programming a couple other things requiring serial).


ARC appears to run OK, but now I'm getting "too much ambient noise" errors almost every time - to the point where I can't get through a set of measurements in a single position, much less 5.


Any thoughts on what might be at the heart of this or what to try to fix it? Can an older computer have problems with this?


Thx.

-Ravi


----------



## erikno

Today 11 nov, the official firmware 2.08 for D2v is out on the web pages to Anthem.


erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/17513346
> 
> 
> I'd been using my work laptop to update & run ARC for my AVM50, but a recent laptop upgrade has stripped me of a serial port. I bought an old IBM thinkpad ($64 delivered - no big cost) just for this (as well as programming a couple other things requiring serial).
> 
> 
> ARC appears to run OK, but now I'm getting "too much ambient noise" errors almost every time - to the point where I can't get through a set of measurements in a single position, much less 5.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on what might be at the heart of this or what to try to fix it? Can an older computer have problems with this?
> 
> 
> Thx.
> 
> -Ravi



Unlikely unless your Thinkpad has a loud fan or you have other programs running in the background that are interfering with the audio capture. Try raising Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level a few dB. ARC uses that setting to adjust the volume of its test sweep tones.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17513377
> 
> 
> Today 11 nov, the official firmware 2.08 for D2v is out on the web pages to Anthem.
> 
> 
> erikno



Old news. As previously posted here, it was deemed "official" and placed on the D2v and AVM 50v public download pages last Friday.

--Bob


----------



## erchn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17513114
> 
> 
> There are three different parts to the on-screen display, and they are produced by different hardware. They are:
> 
> 
> 1) The character generator which puts up the text when you press the Select button or certain other buttons.
> 
> 
> 2) The Setup menu (an internally generated S-video Source), and
> 
> 
> 3) The Video Source Adjust menu (produced by the video board itself).
> 
> 
> Did you lose all 3 or just 1 of those?
> 
> 
> What model of Anthem processor do you have, and what firmware version are you running in it?
> 
> 
> What version of ARC are you using?
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you are using a D2v or AVM 50v, make sure your display is plugged into HDMI Output 1. HDMI Output 2 does not produce the on-screen displays.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you for the response.


I have a D2v with 2.07g, using ARC 2.3. #1 is gone, #2 is fine, haven't checked #3. Yes, using HDMI output 1.


I'll double check some stuff later tonight.


------------------------------


I've been working with Anthem support on some other issues for about a month, so I'm waiting for an answer from them about whether I should upgrade to 2.08, in-case you were to suggest that upgrade.


Ethan


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erchn* /forum/post/17514417
> 
> 
> Thank you for the response.
> 
> 
> I have a D2v with 2.07g, using ARC 2.3. #1 is gone, #2 is fine, haven't checked #3. Yes, using HDMI output 1.
> 
> 
> I'll double check some stuff later tonight.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> I've been working with Anthem support on some other issues for about a month, so I'm waiting for an answer from them about whether I should upgrade to 2.08, in-case you were to suggest that upgrade.
> 
> 
> Ethan



"Test" firmware V2.07g is known to have some serious problems, although loss of the character generator is not one of them. My recommendation would indeed be that you install "official" V2.08.


Although that might not fix your problem with the character generator I think it is not a good use of your time to try to diagnose this further while still running "test" V2.07g. So if Anthem wants you to hold off on V2.08, I suggest you set this problem aside until then.


Another thing to try would be to save your current settings in User or Installer Settings and temporarily Reload Factory Defaults to see if the character generator is restored. That would eliminate any chance of a simple settings mistake on your part.


If it works, check again for a settings mistake, but you may also have a corrupted settings memory -- i.e, you should try re-entering your settings from scratch.


If not, then that suggests a hardware problem in the character generator or the video overlay. But again, I wouldn't reach that conclusion prior to switching to V2.08.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17511433
> 
> 
> Most movie tracks, even the lossless tracks on BD, are 48KHz. (Some are 24 bits per sample, but some are still only 16 bits per sample).
> 
> 
> Blu-Ray supports higher data rates for audio as well, but typically these are found on music discs rather than feature movies.
> 
> 
> Check out the "2L" audio Blu-Rays on Amazon for example.
> 
> 
> LPCM on Blu-Ray supports up to 7.1 192KHz.
> 
> 
> TrueHD on Blu-Ray supports up to 7.1 192KHz.
> 
> 
> DTS-HD MA on Blu-Ray supports 7.1 up to 96KHz, 5.1 and below up to 192KHz.
> 
> 
> The D2v will accept and properly process all of those.
> 
> 
> The Oppo will decode all of those with one exception: DTS-HD MA 5.1 on the Oppo is limited to 96KHz for decoding -- it will still bitstream the full 192KHz.
> 
> 
> What any player sends to the D2v is the lesser of what the player supports and what the D2v supports. Since the D2v supports everything that you can get on Blu-Ray there are only player limits.
> 
> 
> Anything the D2v receives which is less than 192KHz gets upsampled to 192KHz in the D2v prior to processing. And 192KHz is what gets sent to the D2v DACs for output.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The D2 on the other hand doesn't accept lossless bitstreams. You need a decoding player which will send LPCM. And the D2 is limited to no more than 5.1 channel input and no more than 96KHz input for that LPCM.
> 
> 
> So the player has to down-mix 7.1 tracks to 5.1 and the player has to handle 192KHz tracks specially to output no more than 96KHz, or it has to switch to the lossy compatibility tracks.
> 
> 
> Even though the D2 input is limited to 96KHz, it still upsamples to 192KHz prior to its processing. And the D2 (like the D2v) can raise audio input which is less than 7.1 channels to produce 7.1 speakers of output.
> 
> 
> So you can, for example, send up to 5.1 LPCM 96KHz to the D2 and it will upsample that to 192KHz, raise that to 7.1 speakers (e.g., using PLIIx audio surround mode), and send 7.1 processed LPCM 192KHz to its DACs for output to the speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17514350
> 
> 
> Unlikely unless your Thinkpad has a loud fan or you have other programs running in the background that are interfering with the audio capture. Try raising Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level a few dB. ARC uses that setting to adjust the volume of its test sweep tones.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the tip. I tried that, again no luck. I even turned off the heat to ensure the room would be dead silent. Still reporting too much ambient noise. Very frustrating.


Have e-mailed Anthem.


-Ravi


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/17515568
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip. I tried that, again no luck. I even turned off the heat to ensure the room would be dead silent. Still reporting too much ambient noise. Very frustrating.
> 
> 
> Have e-mailed Anthem.
> 
> 
> -Ravi



Aray Ravi sahaab. Bacho ko chup karo ur biwi ko room me lock karo.

Mera khayal tomhare d2v bacho ur biwi ki saat pagal hogaya hai.


Sorry, just to keep everything in English.

translation: Mr Ravi. Please make the kids quiet and lock your wife in a room.

I think your d2v has gon crazy with your wife and kids.


----------



## Texas steve

I had a jet fly over in the middle of one of mine. Then on the second one my "big ben" clock went off, then after stoping all electronics, checking flight patterns and beginning again, the smoke alarm went off telling me to replace the battery!!!







So, try/try again!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17515711
> 
> 
> Aray Ravi sahaab. Bacho ko chup karo ur biwi ko room me lock karo.
> 
> Mera khayal tomhare d2v bacho ur biwi ki saat pagal hogaya hai.
> 
> 
> Sorry, just to keep everything in English.
> 
> translation: Mr Ravi. Please make the kids quiet and lock your wife in a room.
> 
> I think your d2v has gon crazy with your wife and kids.


----------



## dlynch34

Can anyone pm me a good dealer to buy a d2v from?


Thanks


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> Old news. As previously posted here, it was deemed "official" and placed on the D2v and AVM 50v public download pages last Friday.
> 
> --Bob



Well, thought I kept a tight look after when 2.08 was official on this site and on Anthems every day, but seems not tight enough...


Anyway, the experience so far is very good with much quicker change between HDMI sources. However, this evening has not provided me with much testing possibility.


erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17516927
> 
> 
> Well, thought I kept a tight look after when 2.08 was official on this site and on Anthems every day, but seems not tight enough...
> 
> 
> Anyway, the experience so far is very good with much quicker change between HDMI sources. However, this evening has not provided me with much testing possibility.
> 
> 
> erikno



It might simply be that your web browser was showing you a cached version of Anthem's Latest Software page. Try reloading the page or clearing caches in your web browser if you run into something like this again.

--Bob


----------



## Janski

Hello All,


I have completed my first ARC! There are areas to improve. Please have a look and let me know what you think.


About the room:


-> It is 16 x 34 feet

-> Contains a fair amount of furniture, 4 chesterfields, 2 on each side

-> My seat is one of two in the center about 24 feet back from my pj screen

-> Main channels are my backup set as my primary set requires repair

-> Main channels are approx. 12 feet apart, 1.5' from the back wall to the back of each and slightly toed inward

-> Side surrounds are wall mounted, bi-polar even with my ear and approx. 6.5' high

-> Rear surrounds are wall mounted, bi-polar, approx. 10' apart at the same height as the sides and on the back wall

-> Sub is near the right front corner beside the right main channel

-> Using a Statement P5 with balanced XLR input connectors and feeding a Denon 3802 in direct stereo at a constant volume setting to power the rears (00 attenuation)


Observations:


-> Test level seems avg. 14 dB too high

-> Repeated one measurement as occasional traffic interfered with measurements (I may repeat later in the night when all is quiet)

-> I had the famous 10kHz dip. Possibly related to all the absorbent materials in the room (Carpet, couches) All drivers have a very open path to my ear with exception of the sub. ARC was able to compensate significantly

-> After this ARC: Increased neutrality, accuracy in image placement

-> I was somewhat concerned with the relatively high rolloff frequency set on my mains. Accurate music is a priority and I suppose my ARC wants my sub to handle below the main channel rolloff. (I had most often preferred 2 channel stereo for music without a sub, perhaps I have to get used to not having the full range sent to my mains.)


I increased the Uppermost frequency from 5 kHz to 17. More listening to come before trying again with perhaps a 9 dB decrease in the test tone level...


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17517058
> 
> 
> It might simply be that your web browser was showing you a cached version of Anthem's Latest Software page. Try reloading the page or clearing caches in your web browser if you run into something like this again.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Leave the poor guy alone. He knows he made a mistake.


----------



## skipperh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17507209
> 
> 
> The same here. No response from Tech Support regarding my problem to upgrade the firmware. That`s very disappointing, because one reason for me to buy one Anthem unit was the promised good service, discussed at this forum. I came from PixelmagicSystems (Crystalio2), but the problems (support) seems to be the same.



I had difficulty reaching them as well this week. It turns out only one tech on staff this to handle all the calls. Should be better next week.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erchn* /forum/post/17512623
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I've been stalking here for a while, thx for all the great info. I have a question about the OSD. I'm using HDMI out, and after the most recent "reset to factory defaults" and run Arc, I've lost OSD altogether. I've tried looking at the Display settings in the main menu, and everything seems kosher, as well as restarting the unit a couple times, to no avail.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> thanks!
> 
> Ethan



I had this happen a month or so ago, with my D2 (not D2v).


The OSD - both setup menu and video settings overlay - completely disappeared, but I could still access the setup menu on the front panel display.


I figured it was a sign of an impending video board failure. I tried all kinds of things short of a frmware reload without success.


After a week or so, I turned on the D2 and voila! it was back.


I think it's trying to tell me to upgrade. Unfortunately finances speak louder right now. I'm crossing my fingers that it doesn't happen again.


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17516794
> 
> 
> I had a jet fly over in the middle of one of mine. Then on the second one my "big ben" clock went off, then after stoping all electronics, checking flight patterns and beginning again, the smoke alarm went off telling me to replace the battery!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, try/try again!



I've had this stuff happen as well in past runs. How I wish this was it. It was quiet as a tomb in here when I was trying to run it! Still telling me there's ambient noise.


For people reaching out to Anthem Tech, you should be getting timely responses now. I e-mailed them and received two replies today, both within hours of inquiry.


For anyone who's curious, like Bob they recommended turning up the test volume - recommended going up 4-8 dB (way more than I'd tried earlier).


Will be running it again tomorrow at higher volume after the wife/kid/dog are out of the house.


-Ravi


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/17517104
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> 
> I have completed my first ARC! There are areas to improve. Please have a look and let me know what you think.
> 
> 
> About the room:
> 
> 
> -> It is 16 x 34 feet
> 
> -> Contains a fair amount of furniture, 4 chesterfields, 2 on each side
> 
> -> My seat is one of two in the center about 24 feet back from my pj screen
> 
> -> Main channels are my backup set as my primary set requires repair
> 
> -> Main channels are approx. 12 feet apart, 1.5' from the back wall to the back of each and slightly toed inward
> 
> -> Side surrounds are wall mounted, bi-polar even with my ear and approx. 6.5' high
> 
> -> Rear surrounds are wall mounted, bi-polar, approx. 10' apart at the same height as the sides and on the back wall
> 
> -> Sub is near the right front corner beside the right main channel
> 
> -> Using a Statement P5 with balanced XLR input connectors and feeding a Denon 3802 in direct stereo at a constant volume setting to power the rears (00 attenuation)
> 
> 
> Observations:
> 
> 
> -> Test level seems avg. 14 dB too high
> 
> -> Repeated one measurement as occasional traffic interfered with measurements (I may repeat later in the night when all is quiet)
> 
> -> I had the famous 10kHz dip. Possibly related to all the absorbent materials in the room (Carpet, couches) All drivers have a very open path to my ear with exception of the sub. ARC was able to compensate significantly
> 
> -> After this ARC: Increased neutrality, accuracy in image placement
> 
> -> I was somewhat concerned with the relatively high rolloff frequency set on my mains. Accurate music is a priority and I suppose my ARC wants my sub to handle below the main channel rolloff. (I had most often preferred 2 channel stereo for music without a sub, perhaps I have to get used to not having the full range sent to my mains.)
> 
> 
> I increased the Uppermost frequency from 5 kHz to 17. More listening to come before trying again with perhaps a 9 dB decrease in the test tone level...
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



Yes your solution is set up at higher volume than I'd like to see.


Before your next Measurement, go into Setup > Level Calibration and zero out all the lines. Then set Manual test mode and set the Test Level line to yield 75dB on your SPL meter at ARC mic position #1. Then go down to a subwoofer line -- leave it at 0db -- and adjust the volume knob in your sub itself to yield 75dB.


Finally, if you are using a D2v or AVM 50v with recent firmware, you may need to lower Test Level an additional 6dB after the above as there appears to be a bug in the way ARC is currently interpreting Test Level.


-------------------------------------


If you are not also running XLR outputs for your Rear speakers, be aware that there is a standard 6dB volume difference between the XLR and RCA outputs. See Chapter 2 in the Manual.


-----------------------------------


The Targets window you posted doesn't show the raise of Max EQ Frequency you mentioned, but your charts do show it and the result seems good.


ARC found very little Room Gain in your room but that's probably an artifact of the bass response issues for your speakers so it may correct itself as those issues get addressed. In the interim, try raising Room Gain to around 2 or 2.5 dB and re-Calculate to see what that does. If the charts look decent, go ahead and Upload that for a listen.


------------------------------------


All 4 of your Surrounds measure as weak in bass (red Measured curve), so the high crossover for them makes sense. Check to see if there isn't a bass port or some such you need to open on those 4 to get improved bass out of them. If they have separate input jacks for bass, make sure that's wired.


The real problem is LF/RF where there is a mis-match between their low bass output and high bass. ARC is assigning a high crossover to them to avoid that part of their response. Check to see if there is a bass response configuration on those that might lower the low bass and raise the high bass (e.g., closing a bass port). Failing that, try moving them further from the wall. This is worth spending some time to tackle -- more so than the weak bass from the surrounds.


Your Center appears OK.


----------------------------------


Your Sub is OK at the low end, but its high end is weak. I suspect you have left its internal crossover turned on. Disable its internal crossover, or if you can't do that, crank it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/17517104
> 
> 
> -> I had the famous 10kHz dip. Possibly related to all the absorbent materials in the room (Carpet, couches) All drivers have a very open path to my ear with exception of the sub. ARC was able to compensate significantly



Normal soft/fuzzy absorbers do not have such a selective capability to cause the 10 kHz notch. Nor is it your tweeters--as they all match exactly in all 7 speakers. No, I still contend that it's the mic. And if ARC is compensating significantly, then it's adding a 10 kHz boost that ought not be there. Might want to return the HF limit to 5 kHz to avoid the uncertainty.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17517915
> 
> 
> Normal soft/fuzzy absorbers do not have such a selective capability to cause the 10 kHz notch. Nor is it your tweeters--as they all match exactly in all 7 speakers. *No, I still contend that it's the mic*. And if ARC is compensating significantly, then it's adding a 10 kHz boost that ought not be there. Might want to return the HF limit to 5 kHz to avoid the uncertainty.



I'm glad someone finally said what I've thought for awhile now. At first I thought it might be the fact that ARC is summing or averaging the off-axis response.

After I installed the first ARC 2.x version, I boosted the correction to 20KHz where I had initially gone with the 5KHz setting.

At first, I liked the 20KHz but I also noticed that my loudness level had been boosted by at least 5dB. Formerly when I watched movies with great soundtracks, I could sometimes listen at reference or near it.

After the initial ARC 2.x, I was at like 10dB and it was very loud or too loud.

I also ended up blowing a ribbon in my center tweeter and after some more listening I was hearing a high-end sizzle that my speakers never had prior and didn't have when listening to music w/o ARC turned on.

After 2.2 came out I took time to re-measure and calibrate at the default 5KHz setting and the sound was much better but still had the 5ish dB boost.

I should have redone the measurements and turned the test tone down but it didn't occur to me until Bob posted about it recently and I thought back to my initial 1.x ARC install where I had to boost the test tone to get ARC to complete a sweep cycle. I know some others had this issue after or around the time I did with low test tone levels.

I guess my meandering point is to really listen to the sound of your system.

Sure ARC evens everything out and gives you great soundstage and front-to-side-to-back coherence but I now believe that for my system, the 5KHz setting or even lower may yield the best subjective sound quality and perhaps placement and room treatments are required for the high-frequencies.

I know there are limitations in measuring and correcting high freqs as they become increasingly directional and perhaps ARC has some shortcomings in this arena. Trust me not I'm being critical of ARC just relating my own experience over the last couple years.

BTW, I have a dedicated, professionally designed room that I and a friend who's a building pro constructed.

Not bragging and my room and system are by no means sonically perfect but I just wanted to provide some context to my experience and impressions.


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17517588
> 
> 
> Yes your solution is set up at higher volume than I'd like to see.
> 
> 
> Before your next Measurement, go into Setup > Level Calibration and zero out all the lines. Then set Manual test mode and set the Test Level line to yield 75dB on your SPL meter at ARC mic position #1. Then go down to a subwoofer line -- leave it at 0db -- and adjust the volume knob in your sub itself to yield 75dB.
> 
> 
> Finally, if you are using a D2v or AVM 50v with recent firmware, you may need to lower Test Level an additional 6dB after the above as there appears to be a bug in the way ARC is currently interpreting Test Level.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you are not also running XLR outputs for your Rear speakers, be aware that there is a standard 6dB volume difference between the XLR and RCA outputs. See Chapter 2 in the Manual.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> The Targets window you posted doesn't show the raise of Max EQ Frequency you mentioned, but your charts do show it and the result seems good.
> 
> 
> ARC found very little Room Gain in your room but that's probably an artifact of the bass response issues for your speakers so it may correct itself as those issues get addressed. In the interim, try raising Room Gain to around 2 or 2.5 dB and re-Calculate to see what that does. If the charts look decent, go ahead and Upload that for a listen.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> All 4 of your Surrounds measure as weak in bass (red Measured curve), so the high crossover for them makes sense. Check to see if there isn't a bass port or some such you need to open on those 4 to get improved bass out of them. If they have separate input jacks for bass, make sure that's wired.
> 
> 
> The real problem is LF/RF where there is a mis-match between their low bass output and high bass. ARC is assigning a high crossover to them to avoid that part of their response. Check to see if there is a bass response configuration on those that might lower the low bass and raise the high bass (e.g., closing a bass port). Failing that, try moving them further from the wall. This is worth spending some time to tackle -- more so than the weak bass from the surrounds.
> 
> 
> Your Center appears OK.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> Your Sub is OK at the low end, but its high end is weak. I suspect you have left its internal crossover turned on. Disable its internal crossover, or if you can't do that, crank it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.
> 
> --Bob



Hello All,


Thanks alot Bob!


Followed your advice, managed another ARC, though I have to say it took me 3 hours to accomplish. Possibly related to my reducing the test level, (had set it to -12 dB) but many, many times ARC could not capture a good response on my speakers. (Still sounded quite loud - I do not have a separate SPL meter unfortunately,) All speakers took turns exibiting this error with the exception of my main channels. I removed a plush chesterfield from the right side of my room - it was directly in front of my sub-woofer, as too many times a good reading of the sub could not be had.


At times, aborting the whole procedure, changing the test level was necessary. Other times, I moved furniture I though may have contributed to uneven levels or response. Other times, I simply retried the measurement.


The difference in the sub is plain to see. You were right - the crossover had been left as active. I tuned it to its highest possible frequency. I also increased the level of the rears a bit - to compensate for the level differential between XLR and RCA.


There are no wiring tricks to be had nor response adjustments on any of my speakers. For the fronts, I can live with this until my better pair are ready. The sides and rear are Paradigm ADP-390 which lack low extension. All seems warranted there.


Regarding the subsequent posts about the microphone response possibly dipping around 10 kHz - this is possible, though I did not hear a distinct boost at that level after my first ARC. I saw what adjusting the target would do. I've kept it at 17kHz for now, but appreciate your comments. I will look for a brightness. I may even connect my function generator and try a few tests at different frequencies with the two different target settings. (5kHz -> 17 kHz)


I will be good if I or we can determine why I've had such a time getting good readings. A few times a vehicle went by and twice I did receive the "excesive bg noise..." warning, but most measurements I expected would be OK. The message "unable to measure a good response..." or similar is the one which came too many times for my social life. I've noticed the level can be either too high or too low resulting in that error, but I also get it in between. Is it possible room resonance can contribute? I do notice a bit of an echo in the high frequency at times invoked by my surrounds as they are somewhat near a large ceiling. I notice we captured a more likely room gain this time.


Thanks and Take Care,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The fact that you are having to do so many retries means your Test Level is too low. But ARC is still building a high volume level into the solution. So it is trying to compensate for a volume mismatch between your speakers.


Check the volume trim levels ARC Uploaded into Setup > Level Calibration. I expect you'll see some extreme values either side of zero. NOTE: Do not modify the levels ARC Uploads, not even for your Rears. My comment about the connector difference was just background. ARC has already corrected for any such difference.


You need to get youself an SPL meter so you can set Test Level and your sub's volume knob properly. In the US, everyone uses the model sold by Radio Shack for $50.

--Bob


----------



## erchn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17517321
> 
> 
> I had this happen a month or so ago, with my D2 (not D2v).
> 
> 
> The OSD - both setup menu and video settings overlay - completely disappeared, but I could still access the setup menu on the front panel display.
> 
> 
> I figured it was a sign of an impending video board failure. I tried all kinds of things short of a frmware reload without success.
> 
> 
> After a week or so, I turned on the D2 and voila! it was back.
> 
> 
> I think it's trying to tell me to upgrade. Unfortunately finances speak louder right now. I'm crossing my fingers that it doesn't happen again.



Actually, I'm a moron. It turns out that in the dark I accidentally plugged HDMI out into output 2. Everything is golden again. Good call, Bob.


Ethan


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Cool!

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Ahhh, but we all have done something similar, were just not brave enough to take a public flogging!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *urchin* /forum/post/17519417
> 
> 
> Actually, I'm a moron. It turns out that in the dark I accidentally plugged HDMI out into output 2. Everything is golden again. Good call, Bob.
> 
> 
> Ethan


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17519450
> 
> 
> Cool!
> 
> --Bob



Cool that he is a moron or......

















just kidding....every single one of us has played that game and spent hours hunting down a problem...cursing cables or manufacturers only to discover it was our own stupidity......










That's part of the "fun" is what I tell my wife


----------



## MrKell

What are the differences in video upscaling between the AVM50V and the AVM50? Does the former have better video? I'm just wondering if it's worthwhile to upgrade to the AVM50V.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The video board in the AVM 50v is brand new, using the latest generation of the video processor.


For digital video, it supports 12 bits per component (36 bits per pixel) from end to end, including HDMI V1.3 36-bit "Deep Color" input and output.


The video board on the AVM 50 has a 30-bit internal processing path with 24-bit input and output.


Component and S-video processing are also improved on the new board.


The new video processor has two independent signal paths which Anthem is not fully utilizing yet. Both are used (one for each video output) but at present they can not be given separate settings. I suspect this restriction will change over time.


The new video processor has improved video noise reduction (if you ever want to turn that on), handles unusual cadences from film-based content better, and supports conversion of telecine processed input to /24 output better.


The new board has 8 HDMI inputs and 2 HDMI outputs (which at present can not be set to output different stuff). The old board has 4 in and 1 out.


Note that the new HDMI on the new board also provides enhanced AUDIO support over the AVM 50. The new unit can accept up to 7.1 channels at up to 192KHz input on HDMI. The old unit is limited to 5.1 input at 96KHz on HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## Carlton Bale




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/17161459
> 
> 
> Just got a quote from Anthem on my D2 repair. $1300 to replace the power supply and video board. So now I'm weighing my options: repair it and get my D2 back in about a week or pay for a full D2V upgrade and wait 4 weeks.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about the full upgrade option, since I've had continual problems with my D2. Having a full warranty and a new unit is attractive, but $3900 is still a lot to spend. Thoughts?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17161649
> 
> 
> I'd be leaning towards yes. If Anthem will take a broken D2 back in as trade-in for a new D2v? Ya sure, you betcha. Actually I'm surprised the repair cost is so low if it includes a replacement video board. That's the most expensive replaceable item in the D2.
> 
> --Bob



After I got Bob's response, I called Piero and told him I wanted to do the upgrade. Since they already had my D2 for 4 weeks, he said they would adjust my priority in the upgrade queue accordingly. It's now been 12+ weeks, and I'm still waiting. I've called Piero several times and he's told me that it will be a couple more weeks each time. It's just frustrating because this is a long time to go without the central piece to your home theater system.


How long have others waited for their D2v's?


----------



## DreamWarrior

I don't know if anyone can give me this information here, but I'm interested in the AVM50v and would like to peruse the user's manual. However, when I download the PDF from Anthem's site, it is locked and I can't open it. Can someone give me the password for the manual or post an unlocked version? Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DreamWarrior* /forum/post/17522936
> 
> 
> I don't know if anyone can give me this information here, but I'm interested in the AVM50v and would like to peruse the user's manual. However, when I download the PDF from Anthem's site, it is locked and I can't open it. Can someone give me the password for the manual or post an unlocked version? Thanks!



The password protection should only apply if you try to copy something out of the manual or try to edit it.


Reading it should not require a password.


What program (and version) are you using to try to read it?


You should be downloading it from here:

http://www.anthemAV.com/NewSitev2.0/...OwnersMan.html 


---------------------------------------


ETA: On my Mac, that download above opens for reading (without requiring a password) in both Preview (Apple's default PDF reader app) and in Adobe Reader.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

Bob, I have an Oppo 83, HDMI input to the D2v, could you post your mode settings here so I can take best advantage for my 7.1 speaker config.


I was playing Iron Man, which I believe is 7.1 and am seeing DolbyHD incoming, but I am outputting 5.1 + PLXII...


Appreciate your help...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/17522926
> 
> 
> After I got Bob's response, I called Piero and told him I wanted to do the upgrade. Since they already had my D2 for 4 weeks, he said they would adjust my priority in the upgrade queue accordingly. It's now been 12+ weeks, and I'm still waiting. I've called Piero several times and he's told me that it will be a couple more weeks each time. It's just frustrating because this is a long time to go without the central piece to your home theater system.
> 
> 
> How long have others waited for their D2v's?



It varies, of course, but under 8 weeks is fairly typical. So since it has been 8 weeks since you told them you wanted the D2v you should be right about there by now.


----------------------------------------


ETA: I should add that normally if you are doing an Upgrade trade-in they would tell you to wait to send in your old unit until your new unit was just about ready, so you wouldn't be out of service like that.

--Bob


----------



## DreamWarrior




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17523002
> 
> 
> The password protection should only apply if you try to copy something out of the manual or try to edit it.
> 
> 
> Reading it should not require a password.
> 
> 
> What program (and version) are you using to try to read it?
> 
> 
> You should be downloading it from here:
> 
> http://www.anthemAV.com/NewSitev2.0/...OwnersMan.html
> 
> 
> --Bob



I guess it was just my Linux PDF viewer (Evince 0.6.0), it opens fine on my Windows machine. Sorry, I should have tried that first, I just figured maybe it was password protected for a reason. Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17523014
> 
> 
> Bob, I have an Oppo 83, HDMI input to the D2v, could you post your mode settings here so I can take best advantage for my 7.1 speaker config.
> 
> 
> I was playing Iron Man, which I believe is 7.1 and am seeing DolbyHD incoming, but I am outputting 5.1 + PLXII...
> 
> 
> Appreciate your help...



Press Select repeatedly to see how many input channels are actually being received and the type of input. You can also bring up the Oppo's on-screen display to get info on the track it is playing.


"Iron Man" Blu-Ray is 5.1 TrueHD -- I just checked my copy. So what you are seeing is correct. You are using PLIIx in the D2v to raise that 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output, which is what I would do as well if I had a 7.1 speaker setup.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

Thanks Bob....

If I wanted 7.1 input to be untouched and output 7.1 should it be set to none...?


Would that be bitstream out of the oppo or PCM?


thanks


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17523188
> 
> 
> If I wanted 7.1 input to be untouched and output 7.1 should it be set to none...?
> 
> 
> Would that be bitstream out of the oppo or PCM?



Either way, PLIIx cannot be applied on top of a 7.1 signal, so you do not have to take any special steps to prevent it.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17523074
> 
> 
> It varies, of course, but under 8 weeks is fairly typical. So since it has been 8 weeks since you told them you wanted the D2v you should be right about there by now.---Bob



Wow! Do I consider myself lucky. I needed a rack mount D2v and they had an extra in stock. I had it in 4 days.


Sorry Carlton, I hope yours' comes soon! If you think it would work for you, ask them if they have a rack mount available.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17523188
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob....
> 
> If I wanted 7.1 input to be untouched and output 7.1 should it be set to none...?
> 
> 
> Would that be bitstream out of the oppo or PCM?
> 
> 
> thanks



The only choice you have for 7.1 input in the D2v is whether or not THX post processing is turned on in the D2v. Personally I recommend doing without THX post processing in an ARC setup.


With a D2v or AVM 50v, you can use either Bitstream or LPCM from the Oppo interchangeably with a few exceptions:


1) When playing an HDCD use LPCM. The Oppo decodes HDCD when you select LPCM output, but the PCM data it sends if you select Bitstream output is the CD-style compatibility (undecoded) data and the D2v does not decode HDCD audio. So it plays as if were a traditional CD.


2) When playing SD-DVDs with DTS-ES tracks, use Bitstream. The Oppo does not decode the rear channel output from DTS-ES tracks but the D2v does.


3) SACD output from the Oppo should always be set to LPCM for the Anthems. There is a separate setting for this in the Oppo which overrides your normal Oppo Bitstream/LPCM choice.


4) When playing a 5.1 DTS-HD MA 192KHz track (just this one, specific set of specs), use Bitstream. The Oppo has a processor performance limitation and it only decodes that as 96KHz. But the D2v decodes the full 192KHz. All other DTS-HD MA and TrueHD track types decode the same on the Oppo and the D2v.


Note that you can bring up Setup in the Oppo and change between HDMI Bitstream and HDMI LPCM on the fly while listening. You may have to do a Pause/Play for your new setting to take effect in some cases.


---------------------------------------


Note that you want to leave Secondary Audio OFF in the Oppo unless you actually want to turn on a disc feature which requires it (a Picture-in-Picture commentary for example). Turning Secondary Audio ON forces the Oppo to use the lossy, compatibility audio for the primary track instead of the lossless audio.


I also recommend changing Dynamic Range Control to OFF which insures you will get full volume range from your tracks even if the face of some of the discs out there that have incorrect DRC meta-data on them (like the original release of Iron Man Blu-Ray!).


----------------------------------------


My settings in the Oppo with the current (0925) Oppo firmware are:


Explicit 1080p resolution, 16:9 Wide/Auto, HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4, 30-bit (Dithered), all Picture settings at factory defaults (0), 1080p/24 Auto, DVD/24 OFF, TV System Multi, A/V Sync Delay factory default (0).


Secondary Audio OFF, SACD PCM, Dynamic Range Control OFF, HDMI Bitstream or HDMI LPCM (as above).


The Speaker Configuration settings in the Oppo have no effect on HDMI output. The same is true about the PCM rate limit setting, which only alters Optical/Coax output, not HDMI.


Other settings in the Oppo are at your convenience.

--Bob


----------



## mothaselin

Ok folks I have a D2V for sale once it will probably go back and forth to Anthem. Tried a number of times and on a number of computers to upload the new firmware and it failed each time at the video board part. So I cannot get video, cannot get it to do anything. I have never know a high end audio product to have so many quirks and problems and most of the time not work. I am giving up here, after I get this fixed. Of course calling Anthem results in nothing and emails are not responded to. Beware if you all are thinking of this and yes I am very, very upset!!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/17523389
> 
> 
> Ok folks I have a D2V for sale once it will probably go back and forth to Anthem. Tried a number of times and on a number of computers to upload the new firmware and it failed each time at the video board part. So I cannot get video, cannot get it to do anything. I have never know a high end audio product to have so many quirks and problems and most of the time not work. I am giving up here, after I get this fixed. Of course calling Anthem results in nothing and emails are not responded to. Beware if you all are thinking of this and yes I am very, very upset!!!!!



What error message are you getting when the install fails?


Also, is this the first time you've tried to install new firmware in your D2v since you bought it? This is important because if you've never done a successful firmware install before, your failure now might possibly be a hardware problem.


Finally, did you remember to make sure you have no powered HDMI connections (either Sources or Display) while trying to do the install, and did you remember to Reload Factory Defaults prior to beginning the install?


For the HDMI part of this, I recommend you insure this by removing wall power from everything else in your system except the D2v and your Windows computer during the install. Note that many HDMI devices actually keep their HDMI sockets powered even when they are "Off". Pulling wall power from them prevents this without having to keep removing and replacing delicate HDMI plugs.

--Bob


----------



## wse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/17523389
> 
> 
> Ok folks I have a D2V for sale once it will probably go back and forth to Anthem. Tried a number of times and on a number of computers to upload the new firmware and it failed each time at the video board part. So I cannot get video, cannot get it to do anything. I have never know a high end audio product to have so many quirks and problems and most of the time not work. I am giving up here, after I get this fixed. Of course calling Anthem results in nothing and emails are not responded to. Beware if you all are thinking of this and yes I am very, very upset!!!!!



NASTY, talk about great Customer Service I will stick to Classé thank you


----------



## mothaselin

The error message is that the u2 fails to upload to the video board. Yes I disconnected all and set to factory defaults and all. As far as HDMI not only did I disconnect from the wall but also from the HDMI connects on each device so nothing was connected, nothing. Very much upset here.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17523368
> 
> 
> The only choice you have for 7.1 input in the D2v is whether or not THX post processing is turned on in the D2v. Personally I recommend doing without THX post processing in an ARC setup.
> 
> 
> With a D2v or AVM 50v, you can use either Bitstream or LPCM from the Oppo interchangeably with a few exceptions:
> 
> 
> 1) When playing an HDCD use LPCM. The Oppo decodes HDCD when you select LPCM output, but the PCM data it sends if you select Bitstream output is the CD-style compatibility (undecoded) data and the D2v does not decode HDCD audio. So it plays as if were a traditional CD.
> 
> 
> 2) When playing SD-DVDs with DTS-ES tracks, use Bitstream. The Oppo does not decode the rear channel output from DTS-ES tracks but the D2v does.
> 
> 
> 3) SACD output from the Oppo should always be set to LPCM for the Anthems. There is a separate setting for this in the Oppo which overrides your normal Oppo Bitstream/LPCM choice.
> 
> 
> 4) When playing a 5.1 DTS-HD MA 192KHz track (just this one, specific set of specs), use Bitstream. The Oppo has a processor performance limitation and it only decodes that as 96KHz. But the D2v decodes the full 192KHz. All other DTS-HD MA and TrueHD track types decode the same on the Oppo and the D2v.
> 
> 
> Note that you can bring up Setup in the Oppo and change between HDMI Bitstream and HDMI LPCM on the fly while listening. You may have to do a Pause/Play for your new setting to take effect in some cases.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Note that you want to leave Secondary Audio OFF in the Oppo unless you actually want to turn on a disc feature which requires it (a Picture-in-Picture commentary for example). Turning Secondary Audio ON forces the Oppo to use the lossy, compatibility audio for the primary track instead of the lossless audio.
> 
> 
> I also recommend changing Dynamic Range Control to OFF which insures you will get full volume range from your tracks even if the face of some of the discs out there that have incorrect DRC meta-data on them (like the original release of Iron Man Blu-Ray!).
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> My settings in the Oppo with the current (0925) Oppo firmware are:
> 
> 
> Explicit 1080p resolution, 16:9 Wide/Auto, HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4, 30-bit (Dithered), all Picture settings at factory defaults (0), 1080p/24 Auto, DVD/24 OFF, TV System Multi, A/V Sync Delay factory default (0).
> 
> 
> Secondary Audio OFF, SACD PCM, Dynamic Range Control OFF, HDMI Bitstream or HDMI LPCM (as above).
> 
> 
> The Speaker Configuration settings in the Oppo have no effect on HDMI output. The same is true about the PCM rate limit setting, which only alters Optical/Coax output, not HDMI.
> 
> 
> Other settings in the Oppo are at your convenience.
> 
> --Bob



thanks Bob - glad I have it right


Appreciate the clarification with settings on both devices...


Thrilled to death with my D2v...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/17523731
> 
> 
> The error message is that the u2 fails to upload to the video board. Yes I disconnected all and set to factory defaults and all. As far as HDMI not only did I disconnect from the wall but also from the HDMI connects on each device so nothing was connected, nothing. Very much upset here.



I understand.


Can you give me the precise error message?


Did it say that it failed to Reset the video processor, or that the verification of the video processor code upload failed or what? It makes a difference.


When an install fails, sometimes a special Flash Eraser utility needs to be run to reset things in the Anthem before you try again. I'm trying to find out if that might be the case for you.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Has anyone tried a Buttkicker with one of their Anthem's sub outputs? Do you have to run ARC with one of these? Opinions on them?


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/17523389
> 
> 
> Ok folks I have a D2V for sale once it will probably go back and forth to Anthem. Tried a number of times and on a number of computers to upload the new firmware and it failed each time at the video board part. So I cannot get video, cannot get it to do anything. I have never know a high end audio product to have so many quirks and problems and most of the time not work. I am giving up here, after I get this fixed. Of course calling Anthem results in nothing and emails are not responded to. Beware if you all are thinking of this and yes I am very, very upset!!!!!



I completely understand, these things can be very frustrating. When I first got my D2 I installed new firmware and it crashed and burned too. Anthem replaced it, apparently there was a hardware issue.


More recently I went through a very frustrating ordeal with Anthem tech support over issues with ARC and some other issues. ARC turned out to be incompatible with my system. Many of the other issues turned out to be that I didn't realize the preset mode was preventing it from ever being in the mode I thought it was in thus causing confusion.


Don't make the same mistake I made and criticize Anthem tech support here on the forum. I got what appeared to be a blow off response from Nick after sending a very detailed summary of the issues I was having. It appeared as though my efforts to detail the problem had been for nothing and had not even been read. So, in frustration I fired the first shot sending Nick a very insulting e-mail accusing him of not reading the detailed summary and having no interest in resolving the problem. I also expressed my lack of confidence in Anthem tech support here on this forum, Nick in particular. Nick had suggested in that blow off response that what I was seeing could be the result of being in certain surround modes. Well, in regards to those issues, the blow off response turned out to be right. Your case is a little different in that they are not responding at all. I'm not sure why that is. I would not give up just yet however. It will be resolved in the end and I believe you will be glad you kept it if you do. In these days of so much automation and HDMI connections, things tend to be buggy in general, its not an Anthem exclusive. I think you're going to see this in other equipment too.


I'm not sure why you are not getting any response. You may want to talk to the dealer where you bought it or worst case, do what I did and contact Jack Shafton at Paradigm. The problem with ARC being incompatible was determined in a few hours of that contact. Your issue seems a little more straight forward than mine so I don't think you should have to do that but if you continue to get no response then I would do it. I would definitely do that instead of remaining frustrated and selling the D2v. You will only be hurting yourself if you do that, denying yourself what is probably the best processor for home theatre available today. I was about ready to sell my D2 during my frustrations but I'm glad I didn't.


So from a formerly frustrated Anthem owner to a currently frustrated one, patients will be difficult for you as it was for me but it will be worth it in the end.


mk


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17525083
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried a Buttkicker with one of their Anthem's sub outputs? Do you have to run ARC with one of these? Opinions on them?



There is no reason you couldn't use one of the sub outputs for this. In my opinion however these are just novelties that you will become bored with within hours if not seconds as I did. I've experienced the Buttkicker brand in stores and I have an Aura bass shaker I was experimenting with for vibration cancellation. I certainly wouldn't want the things. They just vibrate, they don't shake.


I think to do this right you would need some pretty big actuators to actually move the seats or floor. Of course I have twenty four high excursion 15" bass drivers in my theatre so many have asked if I have such actuators under the floor but no, it's just that all those woofers can shake the room pretty well down to about 13 Hz. Even if I just had a conventional sub with just one 15" driver however I still wouldn't want those things. Like I said, they just vibrate they don't shake. They just don't have the mass or power to do anything at low enough frequency. You need something big enough to take over from the woofers in the 10 ~ 15 Hz range and those things simply can't do that.


mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Talk to DRHANKZ about his bass setup, including how he makes the floor bounce. A lot.


I call it his "Lowrider" home theater.









--Bob


----------



## mothaselin

Bob we will have a laptop tomorrow with a normal serial port to try to do this again. At that time I will write down the message, sorry I was so frustrated that after 7 times and on two computers this was something I did not note. But to tell the truth this is a high end component and I know of a number of competing units that do not have these problesm. All I want is for it to play, not with all of the whistles and bells that you all refer to, but the play the hundreds of Hi def movies that I have well and completely. Not with audio failing and all. Also to play my DSS and other inputs with recognition and if that is not something that I can expect from a D2V it can go bye bye and I will use something else. I do not want to sound snippy but it is Anthem that owes me something and not the reverse.


Sorry



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17524031
> 
> 
> I understand.
> 
> 
> Can you give me the precise error message?
> 
> 
> Did it say that it failed to Reset the video processor, or that the verification of the video processor code upload failed or what? It makes a difference.
> 
> 
> When an install fails, sometimes a special Flash Eraser utility needs to be run to reset things in the Anthem before you try again. I'm trying to find out if that might be the case for you.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/17525498
> 
> 
> Bob we will have a laptop tomorrow with a normal serial port to try to do this again. At that time I will write down the message, sorry I was so frustrated that after 7 times and on two computers this was something I did not note. But to tell the truth this is a high end component and I know of a number of competing units that do not have these problesm. All I want is for it to play, not with all of the whistles and bells that you all refer to, but the play the hundreds of Hi def movies that I have well and completely. Not with audio failing and all. Also to play my DSS and other inputs with recognition and if that is not something that I can expect from a D2V it can go bye bye and I will use something else. I do not want to sound snippy but it is Anthem that owes me something and not the reverse.
> 
> 
> Sorry



Of course. Noboody wants a product that's just giving them grief.


But you've been following this thread for a while, so I think you know that most people are actually enjoying their Anthems quite a lot.


----------------------------------


I don't know what other problems you've been having besides this firmware install failure, but clearly the thing to do is get V2.08 installed first and then tackle that other stuff.


As for your DSS box, it is sad but true that quite a few set top boxes out there have problematic implementations of HDMI. It may very well turn out that the best solution for your DSS is to use Component video and Optical Digital audio, which will cause no loss of audio or video quality, but without the HDMI hassles.


-----------------------------------


Now I asked you earlier if this is the first firmware install you've tried. Is it? Have you EVER installed firmware on your D2v successfully since you got it? If you HAVE, then the problem is much more likely to be your computer, etc. But if you've never done a firmware install before, then it may turn out to be a hardware problem.


Also, if your error message is that the installer can't Reset the video processor, then that's important. This is a new problem -- we've had just 2 people report it here, and never with earlier firmware releases -- and Anthem engineering is digging into it.


By the way. What firmware version were you using BEFORE this install attempt?


------------------------------------


And again, since the install failed, it may turn out that you need to get the Flash Eraser utility from Anthem to reset the unit so it will take a new install.


Problems are frustrating, but it really is worth it to take the time to get this resolved so you can enjoy what the rest of us here are enjoying.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg




mothaselin;17525498 But to tell the truth this is a high end component and I know of a number of competing units that do not have these problesm.
Sorry[/QUOTE said:


> Care to share what those competing units are?


----------



## AbMagFab

Any ETA on Dolby Volume? I'm sure I'll hate it, but I'd like to try it... and that logo on the faceplate has been taunting me for a while...


----------



## manutdsoc20

I have been helping a friend in Texas to update his AVM50V. I have successfully updated my AVM50v with the Keyspan USB to serial adapter on WIN7. My friend has tried using the keyspan USB to serial adapter with no success on Xp and Vista with the same settings I used. With the usb to serial adapter the AVM50v would be found after the 2.08.exe was ran and then his computer would freeze. His AVM50v has never been updated. Tonight he used a straight serial connection from a laptop on XP and got the following error that is attached.


If anyone could shed some light on what steps he should take next to get his AVM50V updated it would be appreciated.


Thanks in advance for everyones help.


Cheers manutdsoc20


----------



## wse

mothaselin


If I were you I would buy a Classé SSP-800


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17525768
> 
> 
> Any ETA on Dolby Volume? I'm sure I'll hate it, but I'd like to try it... and that logo on the faceplate has been taunting me for a while...



I'm expecting some "test" firmware based on "official" V2.08 next week with a few more bug fixes, and then I think we'll see the first beta release of the Dolby Volume stuff.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *manutdsoc20* /forum/post/17525769
> 
> 
> I have been helping a friend in Texas to update his AVM50V. I have successfully updated my AVM50v with the Keyspan USB to serial adapter on WIN7. My friend has tried using the keyspan USB to serial adapter with no success on Xp and Vista with the same settings I used. With the usb to serial adapter the AVM50v would be found after the 2.08.exe was ran and then his computer would freeze. His AVM50v has never been updated. Tonight he used a straight serial connection from a laptop on XP and got the following error that is attached.
> 
> 
> If anyone could shed some light on what steps he should take next to get his AVM50V updated it would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for everyones help.
> 
> 
> Cheers manutdsoc20



That error typically means the Anthem has been left in an intermediate state by the prior, failed install attempts, such that it can't accept a new install.


Get the Flash Eraser utility from Anthem tech support and run it a few times, then reboot and retry the firmware install using your XP with the straight serial connection. Flash Eraser resets the various programmable parts of the Anthem so that they will accept a new install.

--Bob


----------



## manutdsoc20




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17525907
> 
> 
> That error typically means the Anthem has been left in an intermediate state by the prior, failed install attempts, such that it can't accept a new install.
> 
> 
> Get the Flash Eraser utility from Anthem tech support and run it a few times, then reboot and retry the firmware install using your XP with the straight serial connection. Flash Eraser resets the various programmable parts of the Anthem so that they will accept a new install.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob!


----------



## mothaselin

Ok here is the error message. My Anthem dealer came by and did this on his computer with a serial port and he is so frustrated also. In fact he is reluctant to do this to his D2v also. Crazy but here goes.


Video processor reset failed and I sent the screen cap to Nick.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/17527591
> 
> 
> Ok here is the error message. My Anthem dealer came by and did this on his computer with a serial port and he is so frustrated also. In fact he is reluctant to do this to his D2v also. Crazy but here goes.
> 
> 
> Video processor reset failed and I sent the screen cap to Nick.


*OK, this is the new failure I mentioned above.*


We've not seen this failure reported here in this thread for previous firmware releases -- including the "test" releases leading up to V2.08. Yours is now just the 3rd report we've had of this particular failure in this thread.


I take it this IS the first time you've ever tried to do a firmware install on your D2v since you got it, correct?


What firmware version was in your D2v prior to these failed install attempts?


-----------------------------------------


Anthem engineering is looking at this particular failure right now. I don't know the results of that yet. It is possible it is a hardware flaw on your video board but that is not confirmed.


What's clear is that the problem is NOT widespread or we would already have a lot more complaints posted in this thread.


What's also clear is that your D2v is covered by warranty, and Anthem WILL get you up and running again one way or the other.


-----------------------------------------


In one other case, I know the Flash Eraser was tried and it did not cure this problem. That video board has been swapped out and Anthem engineering has it for analysis. But it still may be the case on YOUR unit that the Flash Eraser will cure the problem -- i.e., will reset the programmable components in your D2v to the point where the install can now be done. I just don't know. Anthem Tech Support and your dealer can help you with that, and if Anthem Tech Support asks you to try it, please do so.

--Bob


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wse* /forum/post/17525838
> 
> 
> mothaselin
> 
> 
> If I were you I would buy a Classé SSP-800



Not sure why you recommend this product. It looks more like it compares to and AVM-40. No true video processor, no HD audio, no anything more than an AVM-40. Definitely a lot easier to manage when it does not have the video or audio capabilities...


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17525083
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried a Buttkicker with one of their Anthem's sub outputs? Do you have to run ARC with one of these? Opinions on them?



I have a ButtKicker hooked up to my D2. Not sure what you are asking about with regards to ARC. Do I run ARC with the ButtKicker On? Yes I do but it has no impact what so ever on the readings since it doesn't really change the sound pressure, it is physically moving your seat. I guess if you had a really big room drop out on your subwoofer that ARC compensated you could in theory get an exaggerated ButtKicking at that frequency. Keep in mind the Anthem products only have one subwoofer channel so whatever ARC does to your subwoofer it will do to the BKer.


I find a little ButtKicking goes a long way.







I keep my BK amp level pretty low and use the amp's filter to allow only the lowest frequencies through to the BK.


----------



## mothaselin

1. Yes this was the first time I did any firmware upgrade.


2. Sorry but this is a pretty new D2v and this should not have happened.


3. I do not need to be berated by folks I have a lot of money invested in Anthem D2v and P5 and all.


4. Received only one email from Nick and not one phone call or reply. If there is a flash erasor, why is it not on the website as a utility.


5. Sorry I was one of the few with bad boards but if that the case correct the problem. Football weekend coming up and hey I am leading, undefeated every week in Fantasy and need to watch on Sunday.


6. I guess I will rehook up my Lexicon, it never broke.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17527692
> 
> *OK, this is the new failure I mentioned above.*
> 
> 
> We've not seen this failure reported here in this thread for previous firmware releases -- including the "test" releases leading up to V2.08. Yours is now just the 3rd report we've had of this particular failure in this thread.
> 
> 
> I take it this IS the first time you've ever tried to do a firmware install on your D2v since you got it, correct?
> 
> 
> What firmware version was in your D2v prior to these failed install attempts?
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Anthem engineering is looking at this particular failure right now. I don't know the results of that yet. It is possible it is a hardware flaw on your video board but that is not confirmed.
> 
> 
> What's clear is that the problem is NOT widespread or we would already have a lot more complaints posted in this thread.
> 
> 
> What's also clear is that your D2v is covered by warranty, and Anthem WILL get you up and running again one way or the other.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In one other case, I know the Flash Eraser was tried and it did not cure this problem. That video board has been swapped out and Anthem engineering has it for analysis. But it still may be the case on YOUR unit that the Flash Eraser will cure the problem -- i.e., will reset the programmable components in your D2v to the point where the install can now be done. I just don't know. Anthem Tech Support and your dealer can help you with that, and if Anthem Tech Support asks you to try it, please do so.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/17527843
> 
> 
> 1. Yes this was the first time I did any firmware upgrade.



Thanks for the info. This is consistent with the other 2 reports we had in this thread. Were you running the V2.07 firmware prior to this failed install attempt?


Also, please describe again the setup you used the FIRST time you tried the install. What model of computer, what version of Windows, what type of serial adaptor/connection? I'm trying to see if there is anything unique about the way you tried the install the FIRST time compared to what others have tried that worked without problems.


---------------------------


I presume Anthem is also trying to figure out what is going on here. Again, this is a new problem. They have a few cases for comparison. Ideally they would like to give you a procedure that will get the install to complete on your unit, but if it turns out to be a hardware failure they will, of course, have to swap out the hardware.


The Flash Eraser is on Anthem's password protected download page, along with some other stuff that is not intended for general customer use if for no other reason then that there's no customer documentation for how to use it. If Anthem tech support thinks it will help they will get you the access info and walk you through the process (it is not tough).


There is also a separate procedure for resetting the hardware which involves opening up the chassis and making a change. That's riskier for a customer to do of course.


And Anthem Engineering may be working on a new version of the installer which fixes this problem for the few units affected.


I'm sorry your unit is dead, but I don't know any way to fix this other than to be patient and let Anthem Tech Support work with Anthem Engineering to figure this out.

--Bob


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17525083
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried a Buttkicker with one of their Anthem's sub outputs? Do you have to run ARC with one of these? Opinions on them?



I have a dedicated home theater with six power reclining chairs in two rows, each with its own mini-Buttkicker unit bolted to the frame of each chair (all easily driven by a single Buttkicker amp in a parallel/series combination).


I use ARC on my D2 to equalize/calibrate the rest of my system (which includes two Triad 12-inch in-wall subwoofers, as well as a big Velodyne DD-18 hidden behind my front projection screen), but leave the Buttkickers off during the ARC room measurements. The single D2 subwoofer signal gets sent to all of my subwoofers and the Buttkicker amp, so the Buttkickers do get "unnecessarily equalized" by ARC, but the change to their performance is minimal. Furthermore I have the Buttkicker amp set to filter out everything above 50 Hz, so the Buttkicker units only come on with real low bass.


The bottom line is that, even with more-than-adequate low bass response from my subwoofers, I would NEVER go back to a system without the Buttkickers (I had my Buttkicker amp die and replaced under warranty, so I had to do without Buttkickers for awhile). Movie explosions, sci-fi movies with low-frequncy rumble, etc. are felt directly. The effect is more than a "gimmick," although it is fun to surprise visitors to the theater.


Highly recommended.


----------



## mothaselin

Just spoke with Anthem support - Finally!!!-- and yes this is a problem they cannot resolve today or soon. So unhooking all and hey such is life.


----------



## perioms




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17527959
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. This is consistent with the other 2 reports we had in this thread. Were you running the V2.07 firmware prior to this failed install attempt?
> 
> 
> Also, please describe again the setup you used the FIRST time you tried the install. What model of computer, what version of Windows, what type of serial adaptor/connection? I'm trying to see if there is anything unique about the way you tried the install the FIRST time compared to what others have tried that worked without problems.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------
> 
> 
> I presume Anthem is also trying to figure out what is going on here. Again, this is a new problem. They have a few cases for comparison. Ideally they would like to give you a procedure that will get the install to complete on your unit, but if it turns out to be a hardware failure they will, of course, have to swap out the hardware.
> 
> 
> The Flash Eraser is on Anthem's password protected download page, along with some other stuff that is not intended for general customer use if for no other reason then that there's no customer documentation for how to use it. If Anthem tech support thinks it will help they will get you the access info and walk you through the process (it is not tough).
> 
> 
> There is also a separate procedure for resetting the hardware which involves opening up the chassis and making a change. That's riskier for a customer to do of course.
> 
> 
> And Anthem Engineering may be working on a new version of the installer which fixes this problem for the few units affected.
> 
> 
> I'm sorry your unit is dead, but I don't know any way to fix this other than to be patient and let Anthem Tech Support work with Anthem Engineering to figure this out.
> 
> --Bob



Some days ago I reported about the same failure of upgrading my brand new D2v. After I spent my whole weekend to solve the problem, I gave it up. My dealer was immediately ready to change the unit. We unpack a brand new unit and experienced the same problem again (Videoprocessor reset failed). Fortunately my dealer had another new unit. We tried it again and this time it worked. Anthem tech support is informed.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17503739
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I had two as well..
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,

Emailed oppo and they suggested I send my Star Trek disc to Anthem since they don't have an Anthem processor to test it with. Nick said they would buy it so the engineers in Ottawa can test it. I guess Tuesday will be the day we find out if we're the only ones










John


----------



## programmergeek

I had that just got mind back from repair the new bios updated fine, they replaced the video board. and put a huge nick inthe frount pannel arggggg....


----------



## husker du




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17525083
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried a Buttkicker with one of their Anthem's sub outputs? Do you have to run ARC with one of these? Opinions on them?



There's a product from Crowson Technologies out of California that works very well for "tactile sound" as they refer to it. I've auditioned several technlogies and these seem to work the best. Whereas some of the other brands just vibrate, the Crowson units seem to articulate. The movement in the chair is more related to what's happening on the screen somehow. They are expensive however. Nonetheless, You might want to check them out.


----------



## programmergeek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17528852
> 
> 
> There's a product from Crowson Technologies out of California that works very well for "tactile sound" as they refer to it. I've auditioned several technlogies and these seem to work the best. Whereas some of the other brands just vibrate, the Crowson units seem to articulate. The movement in the chair is more related to what's happening on the screen somehow. They are expensive however. Nonetheless, You might want to check them out.



Pretty cool, I have butkickers and love them funest (is this a word) improvment I made. People keep telling me how good the base is and they have no idear there are buttkickers in the coutch it blends so well, in fact if I turn them off people notice right away. The crowsn look nice sterio, that could be interstring. Wonder how that hooks up if you can have "sterio" subs. but vibration from left to right is adding more to it.


----------



## mothaselin

Well nothing new from Anthem other than I will probably have to return D2V to them. But they have not said that and just told me to wait. I hooked up the Lexicon again, and boy it works great and no popping or anything that I experienced with the D2 so guys and girls I love the P5 but the D2 oh well lots to prove to me for sure. I hate to be negative in this group but for sure there needs to be some improvement.


----------



## mothaselin

I understand but not posting what is happening and all is crazy. This is a free world and when you spend what that processor costs you expect some response. I do not agree here, but I guess I will have to accept what they do and hope that they live up to their promises.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/17525322
> 
> 
> I completely understand, these things can be very frustrating. When I first got my D2 I installed new firmware and it crashed and burned too. Anthem replaced it, apparently there was a hardware issue.
> 
> 
> More recently I went through a very frustrating ordeal with Anthem tech support over issues with ARC and some other issues. ARC turned out to be incompatible with my system. Many of the other issues turned out to be that I didn't realize the preset mode was preventing it from ever being in the mode I thought it was in thus causing confusion.
> 
> 
> Don't make the same mistake I made and criticize Anthem tech support here on the forum. I got what appeared to be a blow off response from Nick after sending a very detailed summary of the issues I was having. It appeared as though my efforts to detail the problem had been for nothing and had not even been read. So, in frustration I fired the first shot sending Nick a very insulting e-mail accusing him of not reading the detailed summary and having no interest in resolving the problem. I also expressed my lack of confidence in Anthem tech support here on this forum, Nick in particular. Nick had suggested in that blow off response that what I was seeing could be the result of being in certain surround modes. Well, in regards to those issues, the blow off response turned out to be right. Your case is a little different in that they are not responding at all. I'm not sure why that is. I would not give up just yet however. It will be resolved in the end and I believe you will be glad you kept it if you do. In these days of so much automation and HDMI connections, things tend to be buggy in general, its not an Anthem exclusive. I think you're going to see this in other equipment too.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why you are not getting any response. You may want to talk to the dealer where you bought it or worst case, do what I did and contact Jack Shafton at Paradigm. The problem with ARC being incompatible was determined in a few hours of that contact. Your issue seems a little more straight forward than mine so I don't think you should have to do that but if you continue to get no response then I would do it. I would definitely do that instead of remaining frustrated and selling the D2v. You will only be hurting yourself if you do that, denying yourself what is probably the best processor for home theatre available today. I was about ready to sell my D2 during my frustrations but I'm glad I didn't.
> 
> 
> So from a formerly frustrated Anthem owner to a currently frustrated one, patients will be difficult for you as it was for me but it will be worth it in the end.
> 
> 
> mk


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17528435
> 
> 
> Some days ago I reported about the same failure of upgrading my brand new D2v. After I spent my whole weekend to solve the problem, I gave it up. My dealer was immediately ready to change the unit. We unpack a brand new unit and experienced the same problem again (Videoprocessor reset failed). Fortunately my dealer had another new unit. We tried it again and this time it worked. Anthem tech support is informed.



This is VERY weird.


Understand, they do the factory firmware install the same way you guys are doing it. So they know the hardware was able to accept a firmware install before it went out the door.


It will be fascinating to find out what they finally find as the cause.


And frustrating until they do.

--Bob


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra* /forum/post/17517368
> 
> 
> I've had this stuff happen as well in past runs. How I wish this was it. It was quiet as a tomb in here when I was trying to run it! Still telling me there's ambient noise.
> 
> 
> For people reaching out to Anthem Tech, you should be getting timely responses now. I e-mailed them and received two replies today, both within hours of inquiry.
> 
> 
> For anyone who's curious, like Bob they recommended turning up the test volume - recommended going up 4-8 dB (way more than I'd tried earlier).
> 
> 
> Will be running it again tomorrow at higher volume after the wife/kid/dog are out of the house.
> 
> 
> -Ravi



In case anyone was curious, it was the f-ing laptop.


Nick & Piero sent me a lot of suggestions to try, even going so far as to send me another mic & CD (best customer support EVER). I tried switching cords, mics, everything.


I finally borrowed another laptop to try it with. I'm listening to it record sweeps with no problem as I type.


Be aware - if you have/get an old laptop with a serial port to run ARC & firmware upgrades it CAN cause problems.


-Ravi


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17527773
> 
> 
> I have a ButtKicker hooked up to my D2. Not sure what you are asking about with regards to ARC. Do I run ARC with the ButtKicker On? Yes I do but it has no impact what so ever on the readings since it doesn't really change the sound pressure, it is physically moving your seat. I guess if you had a really big room drop out on your subwoofer that ARC compensated you could in theory get an exaggerated ButtKicking at that frequency. Keep in mind the Anthem products only have one subwoofer channel so whatever ARC does to your subwoofer it will do to the BKer.
> 
> 
> I find a little ButtKicking goes a long way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I keep my BK amp level pretty low and use the amp's filter to allow only the lowest frequencies through to the BK.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/17528159
> 
> 
> I have a dedicated home theater with six power reclining chairs in two rows, each with its own mini-Buttkicker unit bolted to the frame of each chair (all easily driven by a single Buttkicker amp in a parallel/series combination).
> 
> 
> I use ARC on my D2 to equalize/calibrate the rest of my system (which includes two Triad 12-inch in-wall subwoofers, as well as a big Velodyne DD-18 hidden behind my front projection screen), but leave the Buttkickers off during the ARC room measurements. The single D2 subwoofer signal gets sent to all of my subwoofers and the Buttkicker amp, so the Buttkickers do get "unnecessarily equalized" by ARC, but the change to their performance is minimal. Furthermore I have the Buttkicker amp set to filter out everything above 50 Hz, so the Buttkicker units only come on with real low bass.
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that, even with more-than-adequate low bass response from my subwoofers, I would NEVER go back to a system without the Buttkickers (I had my Buttkicker amp die and replaced under warranty, so I had to do without Buttkickers for awhile). Movie explosions, sci-fi movies with low-frequncy rumble, etc. are felt directly. The effect is more than a "gimmick," although it is fun to surprise visitors to the theater.
> 
> 
> Highly recommended.



Thanks guys! Think I'll look into getting one.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A long time ago Nick told me they had discovered certain computer manufacturers were screwing around with Windows before bundling it on their computers, and this was screwing up both built in serial connections and serial via adaptors.


They were too professional to name names, even in confidence.


But seriously, these guys are good. And if they ask you to try a different computer -- do it.


That said, this is the first time I've heard of a computer which could actually acquire data from the ARC mic, but screw it up forcing retries.


Honestly it is amazing to me when anything works with Windows.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17531043
> 
> 
> Thanks guys! Think I'll look into getting one.



We all need to have our butts kicked now and again!










--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17531055
> 
> 
> We all need to have our butts kicked now and again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Do you get your butt kicked by one of these Bob?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17527692
> 
> *OK, this is the new failure I mentioned above.*
> 
> 
> We've not seen this failure reported here in this thread for previous firmware releases -- including the "test" releases leading up to V2.08. Yours is now just the 3rd report we've had of this particular failure in this thread.
> 
> 
> I take it this IS the first time you've ever tried to do a firmware install on your D2v since you got it, correct?
> 
> 
> What firmware version was in your D2v prior to these failed install attempts?
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Anthem engineering is looking at this particular failure right now. I don't know the results of that yet. It is possible it is a hardware flaw on your video board but that is not confirmed.
> 
> 
> What's clear is that the problem is NOT widespread or we would already have a lot more complaints posted in this thread.
> 
> 
> What's also clear is that your D2v is covered by warranty, and Anthem WILL get you up and running again one way or the other.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In one other case, I know the Flash Eraser was tried and it did not cure this problem. That video board has been swapped out and Anthem engineering has it for analysis. But it still may be the case on YOUR unit that the Flash Eraser will cure the problem -- i.e., will reset the programmable components in your D2v to the point where the install can now be done. I just don't know. Anthem Tech Support and your dealer can help you with that, and if Anthem Tech Support asks you to try it, please do so.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I believe that person is me on my 50v. I had Anthem send me a new video board and got the "Video Processor Reset Failed" for the 2nd time. I flash erased numerous times (at least 10 times) before I had to send the whole processor with the extra 'dead' video board back to Anthem last Tuesday. I also sent them the serial cable and Keyspan adapter I was using to perfomr the FW uploads so that they would duplicate my problem in their end before they tear its guts out. I insisted on this first before any attempt to repair it is done so I really hope they did it. Haven't heard back from them yet.


I even completely re-formatted and wiped out my Dell laptop and re-installed Windows Vista a new, thinking maybe a bug in my system is at fault. Still, it failed. I the installed VMWare, the virtual machine software that enabled me to run Windows XP as a virtual machine within Vista. Still, failed to program successfully and thats when I gave up.


I must say though that throught this ordeal Nick at Anthem was very cordial and understanding and did his best to debug my problem remotely.


Nick believed it was a problem on the main motherboard. Maybe so maybe not.


I am now scared to do further upgrades should my 50v return without a root cause of failure report which is an annoying shame indeed. I need to have absolute confidence in product of this class, but I don't as of now. Let me hope my lack of confidence is premature for I really would like to love this product if its FW uplaod process is proven reliable.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17530132
> 
> 
> This is VERY weird.
> 
> *Understand, they do the factory firmware install the same way you guys are doing it*. So they know the hardware was able to accept a firmware install before it went out the door.
> 
> 
> It will be fascinating to find out what they finally find as the cause.
> 
> 
> And frustrating until they do.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Actually Anthem uses older PC's with the generic serial ports that they use on their production floors. They do NOT use PC's with USB/Keyspan adapters which I found really amazing. They do not have setup most likely used by their customers so they never get a chance to see these errors. I believe their SW/HW engineers need to have these kinds of setups. If they did, I believe they'd have seen these problems much earlier in the design cycle.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I seriously doubt this problem will turn out to have anything to do with the serial connection or the Windows computer, although we won't really know for sure until the root cause is found.


It feels more like something got screwed up in the installer software itself -- perhaps not waiting long enough for the video processor to reset when commanded to do so -- or in the portion of the hardware that boots up that processor when commanded to reset.


It could even be as simple as a false error report: I.e., the video processor DID properly reset, but the installer did not properly detect that.


I'm guessing here, of course, but the simple fact that nobody with this failure has found any combo of computer and serial connection that gets around it eliminates the computer and serial connection as the cause in my opinion.


Anyway, I'm sure Anthem is taking this seriously. The last thing they want is for a pile of these puppies to have to be shipped back to them.


It's no fun to be the first bitten with a problem, but if your returned unit leads to a solution, there are lots of folks here who should be grateful to you!

--Bob


----------



## mothaselin

My problem was not with a serial port change. We tried with a keyspan, then used a computer with a normal serial port and then another just plain laptop that my dealer uses to just do firmware upgrades and all did not work, and then the vanilla one crashed his own D2v so this is not a windows or computer problem it rests with Anthem.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17532449
> 
> 
> I seriously doubt this problem will turn out to have anything to do with the serial connection or the Windows computer, although we won't really know for sure until the root cause is found.
> 
> 
> It feels more like something got screwed up in the installer software itself -- perhaps not waiting long enough for the video processor to reset when commanded to do so -- or in the portion of the hardware that boots up that processor when commanded to reset.
> 
> 
> It could even be as simple as a false error report: I.e., the video processor DID properly reset, but the installer did not properly detect that.
> 
> 
> I'm guessing here, of course, but the simple fact that nobody with this failure has found any combo of computer and serial connection that gets around it eliminates the computer and serial connection as the cause in my opinion.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'm sure Anthem is taking this seriously. The last thing they want is for a pile of these puppies to have to be shipped back to them.
> 
> 
> It's no fun to be the first bitten with a problem, but if your returned unit leads to a solution, there are lots of folks here who should be grateful to you!
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Janski

Hello All,


For informational purposes, both my brother and I who purchased D2vs the same day (a month ago) from the same reseller both successfully upgraded from 2.07 to 2.08. Me with an IBM ThinkPad (yes, they were still IBM then) T40p with an advanced port replicator which gives a built-in serial port and Windows Xp SP3. My brother with a Dell D600 with built-in serial port and Windows Xp SP3.


I think of what the variable could be. Any time I've encountered a situation like this in my profession, a process of elimination dictated by a person with full knowledge of how the whole system works with good information in was successful.


1.) Identify a finite set of possible system configurations to test (Computer O/S, Port Type, Initial Firmware levels, any hardware differences...)


2.) Identify a logical flow of items to vary the configuration of (Possibly start at the laptop and work toward the Anthem Video board)


3.) Concentrate heavily on the process defined


It requires full knowledge of inner workings and the ability to monitor/understand what is actually happening through the port. This could be a reason for Anthem to be somewhat less responsive than usual. They are actually helping you by concentrating on the central effort to fix the issue. If this is the case, it would be beneficial if they have someone who can at least reply to each customer to this end.


Perhaps we should post the configs of systems where the upgrade did work and also that where they did not, including all that was tried. Example table headings template could be;


Computer Model - Serial Port Type - Computer OS - Anthem Model - Purchase Date - Previous Firmware Version - Attempted Version - Result - Result Details/Error - Unit Upgraded Previously? - Flash Eraser Tried? - Windows Firewall Stopped/Disabled?


Each attempt would be a new row of data in the table. I thought of creating a simple example in Excel and attaching it here, but perhaps the text in the thread would be best.


Here's Mine


Computer Model: IBM ThinkPad T40p

Serial Port Type: Built in (adv. Port Replicator or dock)

Computer OS: Windows Xp SP3

Anthem Model: D2v

Unit Purchase Date: Week 2, October, 2009 (Newly shipped to reseller)

Previous Firmware Version: 2.07

Attempted Version: 2.08

Attempt Successful?: Yes

If not, list error: N/A

Unit Upgraded Previously?: No

Flash Eraser Tried?: N/A

Windows Firewall Stopped/Disabled?: N/A


If anyone believes it could be a benefit to provide this information, let us start by getting Bob's feedback and possibly then his contribution as to what information to collect.


If we're going to chat about it, let's try to make a difference. If we save Anthem Engineers/Support some time, it is more time they can dedicate to giving us more cool features and possibly we can influence this a little more in the future.


Take Care,

Mike


----------



## ragdog

Well I read all of this but thought that I was so smart. Very computer literate and have a basic laptop with XpPro sp3 and so I felt I could do the upgrade easily. Well folks I have the same problem as others. I think everyone who has not tried this should not and Anthem Statement needs to post on their site not to attempt the firmware upgrade, take down the file and just wait till they fix this, as I am sure that they will. For now I am also dead in the water with no other processor to fall back on.


----------



## ragdog

This was attempted to a D2v that was about 4 months old. No USB adaptor and I am very computer literate.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ragdog* /forum/post/17533699
> 
> 
> Well I read all of this but thought that I was so smart. Very computer literate and have a basic laptop with XpPro sp3 and so I felt I could do the upgrade easily. Well folks I have the same problem as others. I think everyone who has not tried this should not and Anthem Statement needs to post on their site not to attempt the firmware upgrade, take down the file and just wait till they fix this, as I am sure that they will. For now I am also dead in the water with no other processor to fall back on.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ragdog* /forum/post/17533699
> 
> 
> Well I read all of this but thought that I was so smart. Very computer literate and have a basic laptop with XpPro sp3 and so I felt I could do the upgrade easily. Well folks I have the same problem as others. I think everyone who has not tried this should not and Anthem Statement needs to post on their site not to attempt the firmware upgrade, take down the file and just wait till they fix this, as I am sure that they will. For now I am also dead in the water with no other processor to fall back on.



I was ready to do the 2.08 upgrade this weekend. I got my windows 2k laptop ready with a dedicated 232 port and the correct port settings. My d2v is about 6 weeks old and I have already upgraded the unit from 2.07 to 2.07f using my Vista laptop with a SIIG Cyberserial Expresscard 232 adapter with no uploading errors, but, after the previous posts, I thought that a dedicated port would be better. However, it appears that caution is best at this point and to wait for Anthem to advise us what the problem and/or fix is.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ragdog* /forum/post/17533699
> 
> 
> Well I read all of this but thought that I was so smart. Very computer literate and have a basic laptop with XpPro sp3 and so I felt I could do the upgrade easily. Well folks I have the same problem as others. I think everyone who has not tried this should not and Anthem Statement needs to post on their site not to attempt the firmware upgrade, take down the file and just wait till they fix this, as I am sure that they will. For now I am also dead in the water with no other processor to fall back on.



If you still have a copy of the V2.07 installer, see if you can roll back to that version.


Just re-install it on top of the current failed install.

--Bob


----------



## erchn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/17527591
> 
> 
> Ok here is the error message. My Anthem dealer came by and did this on his computer with a serial port and he is so frustrated also. In fact he is reluctant to do this to his D2v also. Crazy but here goes.
> 
> 
> Video processor reset failed and I sent the screen cap to Nick.



I had this error with my original D2v. I ended up returning the unit to Anthem. I believe there was a bad batch of Video processors, or some component in the video system, mine was brand new as well, running 2.07. Trying to upgrade to 2.07g resulted in that error. My new unit does not have this issue, even after the 2.08 upgrade.


----------



## erchn

In other news, I have a new issue with optical input from my TiVo, when DD output from the TiVo is selected. The Anthem ticks very quickly and repetitively when pausing or changing channels; when audio is returned I get a "SCRATCH" and audio comes back.


This is pseudo-resolved by switching the TiVo to "DD to PCM" output, but that of course removes lots of audio information.


I'm going to report to support, but thought someone might have seen/heard this issue.


In case it's not obvious, I've got a D2v running 2.08.


----------



## greyflag

I have the original DSP board from my AVM50 after doing the ARC upgrade. Is there another use for this board, such as upgrading an older Anthem product?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greyflag* /forum/post/17535009
> 
> 
> I have the original DSP board from my AVM50 after doing the ARC upgrade. Is there another use for this board, such as upgrading an older Anthem product?



No. I don't believe it can be used like that. Of course it could be a replacement part for some other AVM50 without ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erchn* /forum/post/17534506
> 
> 
> In other news, I have a new issue with optical input from my TiVo, when DD output from the TiVo is selected. The Anthem ticks very quickly and repetitively when pausing or changing channels; when audio is returned I get a "SCRATCH" and audio comes back.
> 
> 
> This is pseudo-resolved by switching the TiVo to "DD to PCM" output, but that of course removes lots of audio information.
> 
> 
> I'm going to report to support, but thought someone might have seen/heard this issue.
> 
> 
> In case it's not obvious, I've got a D2v running 2.08.



In Setup > Source Setup for that input, try raising Muting. This will add a little more delay before the new audio signal is acquired.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

So I had an interesting experience this week, I had an audio/video calibrator over my house, someone who is well known on AVSforum. The ISF display calibration was straightforward.


He's done some Anthem/ARC calibrations before and had some interesting opinions. Although he's not a big fan of ARC, I thought I might post some of what happened and what we discussed.


1) He feels the microphones included with the ARC, Audyssey and other room control systems are simply not accurate enough to measure mid and high frequencies accurately. He uses a considerably more expensive mike with his RTA package. I had been ARCing up to 12K. He urged me to back it off to 1K, as he thought it was tipping up the high frequencies and making my system too bright. I did that, although in the future I might try correcting up to 5K.


2) He really didn't like the Room Gain feature. ARC had been recommending 3.7 dB of room gain, we forced 0 gain and it clearly sounded better. Down the line I might experiment with judicious adding back of Room Gain, maybe 1 dB, but I will not go with ARC's recommendation. The bass was bloated and vocal articulation was reduced.


3) These are not ARC issues, but he felt my room was too live and my RT60 was too high, and suggested trying to get some diffusion/absorption in the room for better mid/high frequency articulation. Also, he wanted me to listen to my system with the D2V volume set around -14 or so, and I would never listen louder than -20 to -23! Whenever I go to AV shows, the high-end audio folks always cringe when they walk into home theater demos because of the volume. It is interesting that what is felt to be the optimal volume/dynamic range for a home theater is considered too loud by most audio only folks.


4) It was interesting to measure the speaker response with the ARC on and off and see how successful the ARC was in producing the curves it shows. Actually, with the Room Gain at 0 and correction applied only to 1K, it did a respectable job in flattening out my low end. I have to say I wish ARC and all the other room correction devices allowed you to remeasure with correction applied, so you could get feedback on the actual efficacy of the device.


This post is intended to stimulate discussion on the use of ARC. If anybody thinks I'm trolling, I'll be glad to edit this post.


----------



## erchn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17535426
> 
> 
> In Setup > Source Setup for that input, try raising Muting. This will add a little more delay before the new audio signal is acquired.
> 
> --Bob



This has nothing to do with Muting. The ticking will continue constantly until I unpause the TiVo.


Here's a video capture of the problem. I know the quality isn't awesome, but you should be able to just barely make out the audio info at the bottom of the screen, and if you turn up the volume a bit, you can definitely here the ticking and scratch that I'm talking about.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pf7kClFQoRg 


As mentioned before, I've contacted support with this issue.


Note: with 2.07g, this problem occurred, but the ticking would only last 5 seconds, and then quit.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dweltman,


These are good comments! A lot of audio calibrators don't like to see much, if any, processing higher than about 300-500Hz. As folks here know, by default, ARC stops correcting at 5KHz unless you raise Max EQ Frequency.


Raising Max EQ Frequency also causes ARC to divert resources up there, which may make it harder for it to do its job at lower frequencies. Typically this will show as additional wobbles (residual error) in the green Calculated curves at lower frequencies that go away when you try a new Calculation with a lower Max EQ Frequency setting. Whether or not this happens depends on just how much correction ARC needs to produce for those lower frequencies.


As always your ears should be your guide. We've had plenty of folks here who have compared various settings for Max EQ Frequency, and for their ears, in their room, with their speakers, they find raising it -- even all the way up to 20KHz works best.


Some folks have reported that 20KHz is too far and they are happiest backing off from that a bit -- to 15KHz or 10KHz.


And some folks have reported that they don't like the results at all when ARC is set to do processing up there. They prefer Max EQ Frequency at the default value of 5KHz regardless of what the charts might show. Measuring higher frequencies is tough, given speaker directionality, and environmental factors, and so it is quite possible that ARC may get bad data up there in some rooms with some speakers.


Again, trust your ears. ARC makes it easy for you to experiment.


Personally, I prefer my ARC solution at 20KHz. (I posted my latest charts about a week ago.)


------------------------------------------


There are a couple pieces to the Room Gain puzzle. First, ARC is attempting to Measure the inherent, natural Room Gain of your room and preserve it -- even as it eliminates other room response characteristics. If your speakers have Measurement issues near the crossover frequencies, ARC may decide on the wrong value. So if you want to "force" a modestly higher or lower Room Gain and see how that sounds to you, feel free! Again, it is easy to experiment.


It is more common for ARC to get "confused low" rather than "confused high". If your speakers Measure with a distinct dip near the crossovers, ARC will see that as a 0db, or even negative "natural" Room Gain -- which makes no sense physically -- so it will apply a 0dB or small positive Room Gain instead. When I see that in charts here I suggest folks force that back up to a modest Room Gain -- say 2dB or 2.5dB.


I don't recall a case where it was obvious ARC was getting "confused high" in its Measurement of the room's "natural" Room Gain, but I suppose that can happen too.


------------------------------------------------


The other piece of the puzzle is what is the "right" Room Gain. ARC makes no choice for you here. It is simply trying to Measure and preserve the natural Room Gain of your room, as determined by its Measurements.


If the ARC solution preserves the natural Room Gain of your room then real audio events that happen in the room -- e.g., doors closing, will sound more closely matched to the same sorts of events in audio tracks. This means audio tracks should sound more like the "natural", i.e., real, sound of the room.


People mixing movie tracks typically expect a home theater will have some Room Gain, and they mix accordingly. Room Gains of 2-4dB are common. Nick at Anthem says he's not uncomfortable hearing that some people Measure Room Gains even as high as 6dB, although I can't recall anyone posting charts like that here.


If a higher Room Gain is screwing up dialog in movies, then that suggests to me that something else is wrong. Typically this would be an indication that the crossover is too high (primarily between Center and Sub) so that some dialog is happening in the sub, but it could also be an indication that the subwoofer is not in proper phase with the main speakers so you are getting some cancellation through the crossover frequency.


The higher bass contribution of a raised Room Gain can also be a problem for people who are using a subwoofer as an end-table -- right next to their seat. The "near field" response of the subwoofer is what's causing the difference. Try moving the subwoofer to a new location that is more like your distance to your LF/RF speakers.


---------------------------------------


But that's for movies. Folks who mix music have no such standardized view of things. And generally this means that folks who LISTEN to music end up preferring less Room Gain for their music listening than for their movie listening. Typically the difference is not much -- perhaps 1dB or 1.5dB.


With ARC you can, if you choose, force separate Room Gain values for your Movie and Music configurations. Or you might leave one at what ARC found and just adjust the other.


Again, your ears really are the final judge here.


-------------------------------------------------

*For Newbies*: Room Gain will show on the charts as the shallow hump in the black, dashed Target line for each speaker near the crossover frequencies. If you look at the flat part of the Target curve to the right of that, and take that level as the "basic volume level" of your ARC solution, the peak of the Room Gain hump will rise above that by the dB value in the Room Gain setting.


Max EQ Frequency is simply the upper limit of ARC's correction efforts. By default is it 5KHz. Frequencies above the Max EQ Frequency setting are not processed except that they contribute to ARC's calculation of the volume trim for each speaker.


Room Gain and Max EQ Frequency are both in the Targets window. Open up your current ARC results in ARC's "Advanced" mode. Click on Targets to view that window. Make any changes you want to make, and accept those changes (which will also dismiss the Targets window). Then click on Calculate to tell ARC to build a new solution using those new Targets, and if you like what you see, click on Upload to transfer that new solution to your Anthem.


If you are using both Movie and Music configurations, be sure to adjust the Target values for both configurations. You can use different Target values in the two configurations.


You don't have to re-Measure to do this, so you can experiment Calculating with different Target values in almost no time at all, and then Upload whichever result you want to try for listening.


I recommend you do *NOT* fiddle with the speaker configuration values in the Targets window (speaker "cutoffs" or speaker "full range" settings) without posting your charts here and asking for advice first. But the Room Gain and Max EQ Frequency values are safe for you to play with.


If you post your charts here, please also post the Targets window so we can see what settings you used that resulted in those charts.


The "Auto Detect" button in the Targets window will restore ALL the Targets settings back to the original values ARC chose based on your set of speaker Measurements. So if you get lost when making Targets changes, just do an Auto Detect in there to start over.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erchn* /forum/post/17538684
> 
> 
> This has nothing to do with Muting. The ticking will continue constantly until I unpause the TiVo.
> 
> 
> Here's a video capture of the problem. I know the quality isn't awesome, but you should be able to just barely make out the audio info at the bottom of the screen, and if you turn up the volume a bit, you can definitely here the ticking and scratch that I'm talking about.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pf7kClFQoRg
> 
> 
> As mentioned before, I've contacted support with this issue.
> 
> 
> Note: with 2.07g, this problem occurred, but the ticking would only last 5 seconds, and then quit.



That YouTube isn't working at the moment.


I suspect what is going on here is that the Tivo is sending out some garbage and the D2v is getting confused that a new audio stream is starting. A moment later the D2v realizes it is just garbage and so you only get a tick.


The Muting function in Setup > Source Setup is supposed to provide a little time delay (after the D2v thinks it sees such a new audio stream) to mask such cases. In any event, I take it you've tried raising that to Max for your Tivo Source definition and it didn't help?

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

Bob:


I used to have 5 B&W 803N's, which peter off in the mid to low 30's, and no sub. I recently treated myself to upgrading the front 3 speakers to B&W 802D's, which go well into the mid to lower 20's, and they have made room placement and equalization more problematic!


ARC has consistently measured my Room Gain to be between 3.4 and 3.8, with both speaker combinations and a variety of placement tweaking. So it's clear what "it" perceives my Room Gain should be. I am wondering if its not dealing well with having Full Range speakers and no sub, since the problems have certainly been accentuated since I upgraded.


What do you think of the issue of the ARC mike quality?


I agree it is good that ARC has some adjustments.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17538857
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I used to have 5 B&W 803N's, which peter off in the mid to low 30's, and no sub. I recently treated myself to upgrading the front 3 speakers to B&W 802D's, which go well into the mid to lower 20's, and they have made room placement and equalization more problematic!
> 
> 
> ARC has consistently measured my Room Gain to be between 3.4 and 3.8, with both speaker combinations and a variety of placement tweaking. So it's clear what "it" perceives my Room Gain should be. I am wondering if its not dealing well with having Full Range speakers and no sub, since the problems have certainly been accentuated since I upgraded.
> 
> 
> What do you think of the issue of the ARC mike quality?
> 
> 
> I agree it is good that ARC has some adjustments.



From my personal experience the ARC mic quality is excellent. Which is to say there is a high degree of correlation between what shows on the ARC charts as a clean solution and what sounds good to me -- at both the low and high frequency end.


At the low end, I also have a separate way to measure. My Velodyne DD series subwoofer has its own calibrated mic and its own ability to generate test tones as a stereo pair. I play those into my D2v and let the ARC solution take care of which portions of the bass sweep play through the Velodyne and which play through LF/RF (using Stereo audio mode).


The Velodyne captures the result and presents it as a chart (S-video to the D2v).


What ARC says it is doing is what I am seeing as the result from this Velodyne bass sweep chart -- using the Velodyne mic. Among other things, that's confirmation that the ARC mic is good down there.


-----------------------------------------------


Furthermore, the automated solution ARC provides is better than the best manual solution I was able to achieve using the built-in EQ system in the Velodyne (and my manual Velodyne solution was better than what the Velodyne's AUTOMATED solution produced -- the automated solution being limited to fixed filter frequencies).


When comparing like this, the key here is to sample with the Velodyne mic at different seating locations as it is trivial to flatten the response for any one mic position, but hard to do it for multiple positions. The ARC solution produced a better result over multiple test locations than I was able to do manually using the tools in the Velodyne.


----------------------------------------------


Each ARC mic comes with its own, individual calibration data file. One possible concern here is that the ARC software can not tell if you happen to use the wrong ARC mic. The ARC software will reject any other random USB mic you might happen to plug in, but so long as the mic identifies itself as an ARC mic, the ARC software will use it. So if you have more than one ARC mic for whatever reason it is up to you to make sure you are using the mic the software is expecting -- the one matching the mic calibration data file being used.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, if you post your ARC charts and Targets window, we can take a look.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17538922
> 
> 
> By the way, if you post your ARC charts and Targets window, we can take a look.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:

I have previously posted some of my charts. Here were my results with the 5 B&W 803N's:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post14459539 


and here were the more recent results with the 3 front speakers changed to 802D's:


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post17294116 


At your suggestion, I tried moving the center speaker further out from the wall, which did not make much difference in the measurements.


I have attached my current charts, which include lowering max eq to 1K and room gain to 0. I wish I could post copies of my calibrator's RTA analysis, but he just gave me them as printed copies and not files, so I don't have a way to post them.


Let me know what you think. My new speakers were an expensive treat to myself for my 50th birthday. I don't want to think I have a worse sounding system.










dave


----------



## erchn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17538781
> 
> 
> That YouTube isn't working at the moment.
> 
> 
> I suspect what is going on here is that the Tivo is sending out some garbage and the D2v is getting confused that a new audio stream is starting. A moment later the D2v realizes it is just garbage and so you only get a tick.
> 
> 
> The Muting function in Setup > Source Setup is supposed to provide a little time delay (after the D2v thinks it sees such a new audio stream) to mask such cases. In any event, I take it you've tried raising that to Max for your Tivo Source definition and it didn't help?
> 
> --Bob



Ok, the video is up now. Watching in HD is definitely better. Yes, I've tested all 3 Muting settings, no luck.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17539042
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> I have previously posted some of my charts. Here were my results with the 5 B&W 803N's:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post14459539
> 
> 
> and here were the more recent results with the 3 front speakers changed to 802D's:
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post17294116
> 
> 
> At your suggestion, I tried moving the center speaker further out from the wall, which did not make much difference in the measurements.
> 
> 
> I have attached my current charts, which include lowering max eq to 1K and room gain to 0. I wish I could post copies of my calibrator's RTA analysis, but he just gave me them as printed copies and not files, so I don't have a way to post them.
> 
> 
> Let me know what you think. My new speakers were an expensive treat to myself for my 50th birthday. I don't want to think I have a worse sounding system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dave



You may indeed have a case of ARC getting "confused high" on Room Gain!


You've got a pretty nasty room resonance near 50Hz. Look at the red Measured swing from there down to 100Hz for Center for example. Thats 17dB over an octave. That's huge.


And the fact that it was showing in all the speakers is probably what is confusing ARC into thinking it is part of the natural response of your room. And since your new fronts are good lower down, ARC is now trying to incorporate that into Room Gain. (The 50Hz resonance showed in the older charts with your original speakers as well, but not as prominent as they were already starting to roll off.)


The result is two-fold. First you have the big Room Gain hump, but second ARC has lowered the over-all volume trim for each of those speakers to reflect that it is now trying to preserve that peak. And THAT means ARC needs to do more boosting in mid-range and treble!


In particular, look at the mess that's occurred in Center (in the solution where you left the large Room Gain in place). Look at that wide swatch of residual error AFTER correction between 80Hz and 400Hz.


That's what's screwing up your dialog.


----------------------------------------------------------------


Here's what I suggest you do:


1) Start by lowering Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level by 8dB. The basic volume level of your solution is too high. You want the flat part of the Targets curve to the right of the Room Gain hump to be close to 75dB.


2) Using that new Test Level setting, re-Measure without changing a thing as far as speaker or mic positioning.


3) Go into Targets. Set LF/RF to "Full Range" and lower their cutoff to 25Hz if it is not already there. Set Center to "Full Range" and lower its cutoff to 25Hz if it is not already there. Leave LS/RS as *NOT* "Full Range" and leave whatever cutoff ARC has chosen unchanged for that pair.


4) Presuming ARC has once again found a Room Gain so high (it may reduce when you lower the basic volume level), change it to a more modest value. I suggest 2dB to start.


5) Now try 3 calculations: Max EQ Frequency at 1KHz, 5KHz, and 20KHz. Keep an eye on the residual error in Center in that 80-400Hz range. If the solution is clean at 5KHz but shows problems at 20KHz, back off and try to find how high you can go before problems appear. That may be 18KHz for example. It would be best to do this in 3 separate copies of the file. Then Upload each of those 3, in turn, and see which sounds better to you.


If you can't get a clean solution for Center at 5KHz using that 2dB Room Gain, try 1dB.


----------------------------------------------


ETA: Your new speakers definitely go deeper than your old front 3. The real problem is that you've got some nasty room issues and the trick is to work with ARC to find the best way to deal with those. Based on what you got with your 0dB and 1KHz experiment, I see no reason why you shouldn't be able to get very nifty results from the new speakers. And I see nothing in these charts so far to suggest to me you have a mic problem, presuming you know you are using the correct ARC mic.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

Thanks, Bob! I will try your suggestions. By the way, I did do the RatShack 75dB measurement before my last set of ARC measurements. So that error in ARC on the Test Level setting that you posted on a while back is 8dB off for me! Have you heard back from Nick/Anthem about this issue?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17539240
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob! I will try your suggestions. By the way, I did do the RatShack 75dB measurement before my last set of ARC measurements. So that error in ARC on the Test Level setting that you posted on a while back is 8dB off for me! Have you heard back from Nick/Anthem about this issue?



I suspect 2dB of it is just random testing variation in your SPL meter or whatever and the other 6dB is the bug.


By the way, I just helped someone who was using an XLR connector setup for his D2v and he did *NOT* have this 6dB anomaly. So it may only exist for folks, like me, who are using the normal RCA audio outputs from the D2v. This is consistent with my guess that the 6dB is coming from the standard 6dB volume difference between XLR and RCA. I.e., just a simple bug in how the Test Level setting is being applied.


As for the fix, nothing yet. But I presume Anthem has all hands on deck right now regarding the V2.08 install issue, so I'm not surprised that this relatively minor issue is on the back burner for the moment.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erchn* /forum/post/17539054
> 
> 
> Ok, the video is up now. Watching in HD is definitely better. Yes, I've tested all 3 Muting settings, no luck.



OK, the YouTube plays now, and that Snap! when you un-pause definitely sounds like a bug to me.


You are already in touch with Anthem on this, so that's the way to proceed.


By the way, which model of Tivo box are you using, and how is it connected for audio (HDMI audio, Optical Digital, Coax)?

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

1) I am using XLRs between my D2V and amp.


2) By the way, my 2.08 firmware upgrade went without a hitch. I feel for those other folks.


dave


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17539042
> 
> 
> I have previously posted some of my charts. Here were my results with the 5 B&W 803N's:
> 
> 
> and here were the more recent results with the 3 front speakers changed to 802D's:



As a slightly OT observation, comparing the reponses of the 802s and 803s gives us rare opportunity to remove one variable--the speakers, from the question of where the HF dip is originating in these various ARC plots in this thread. Your plots all show a dip at 14 kHz. I'd not expect it from B&W speakers in general, and certainly not perfectly matched in two different models.


I'm thus more convinced the ARC mics cause it, and that the cal files ignore it. You're doing the right thing by limiting the HF well below.


I also see that your choice of 1 kHz preserves the "BBC dip" or whatever one calls the dip at 2.5 kHz. B&W goes to some effort to make that happen, so having the RC "fix" it might not be the best idea. Just wondering, though, what would be your impressions if you changed the EQ limit to 5 kHz and flattened out the dip. Better? Worse? How do the differ sonically?


Thanks for your indulgence.


----------



## erchn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17539294
> 
> 
> OK, the YouTube plays now, and that Snap! when you un-pause definitely sounds like a bug to me.
> 
> 
> You are already in touch with Anthem on this, so that's the way to proceed.
> 
> 
> By the way, which model of Tivo box are you using, and how is it connected for audio (HDMI audio, Optical Digital, Coax)?
> 
> --Bob



You have to turn the volume up to hear it, but the SNAP is bad, but the ticking that's constant is worse...since it's, well, constant.


The unit is an older HR10-250 and is using optical/component.


I'll keep moving forward with support.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17539300
> 
> 
> 1) I am using XLRs between my D2V and amp.



Oh well. So much for that guess. That means the fix may be a little more complicated.


Anyway, the workaround is easy. Adjust Test Level until the ARC result comes out right. If you start getting a lot of retry requests from ARC raise test level just a few dB to give ARC a little more volume to work with on its test sweep tones.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17539305
> 
> 
> As a slightly OT observation, comparing the reponses of the 802s and 803s gives us rare opportunity to remove one variable--the speakers, from the question of where the HF dip is originating in these various ARC plots in this thread. Your plots all show a dip at 14 kHz. I'd not expect it from B&W speakers in general, and certainly not perfectly matched in two different models.
> 
> 
> I'm thus more convinced the ARC mics cause it, and that the cal files ignore it. You're doing the right thing by limiting the HF well below.
> 
> 
> I also see that your choice of 1 kHz preserves the "BBC dip" or whatever one calls the dip at 2.5 kHz. B&W goes to some effort to make that happen, so having the RC "fix" it might not be the best idea. Just wondering, though, what would be your impressions if you changed the EQ limit to 5 kHz and flattened out the dip. Better? Worse? How do the differ sonically?
> 
> 
> Thanks for your indulgence.



My calibrator had a similar comment, he said no way the treble on my speaker is as bad as measured by ARC







So I think I will go no further than 5K.


I was not aware the 2-4 K issue was a deliberate B&W design choice. Do you have more info on that? It is much more evident on my measurements of the 802Ds than the 803Ns. I am going to compare correcting to 1k and correcting to 5K, but that will have to wait until I get the other issues ironed out.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erchn* /forum/post/17539307
> 
> 
> You have to turn the volume up to hear it, but the SNAP is bad, but the ticking that's constant is worse...since it's, well, constant.
> 
> 
> The unit is an older HR10-250 and is using optical/component.
> 
> 
> I'll keep moving forward with support.



There's always some garbage when a digital audio stream starts up. The firmware in the D2v has an algorithm for signal detection that tries to avoid using the audio until it believes it has a valid signal.


The last bug fixed before V2.08 became official was that it was set to be too aggressive in rejecting things and valid audio was getting lost. For LPCM input it is STILL just a hair too aggressive -- rejecting signals now and again if ONLY ONE input channel happens to be active (as with a calibration test track).


For bitstream, it appears your test is saying it is not quite aggressive enough.


I suspect they need to fine tune it a bit more for both LPCM and for bitstream (in opposite directions).


Make sure Anthem Tech Support knows your problem is on Optical and not on HDMI. That's important.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17539305
> 
> 
> As a slightly OT observation, comparing the reponses of the 802s and 803s gives us rare opportunity to remove one variable--the speakers, from the question of where the HF dip is originating in these various ARC plots in this thread. Your plots all show a dip at 14 kHz. I'd not expect it from B&W speakers in general, and certainly not perfectly matched in two different models.
> 
> 
> I'm thus more convinced the ARC mics cause it, and that the cal files ignore it. You're doing the right thing by limiting the HF well below.



Keep in mind that the ARC charts show the unweighted average of the Measurements from all mic positions.


So some of the dip shown in the charts may be due to off axis response. It would not surprise me to learn two different models of B&W have similar high frequency dispersion patterns.


-----------------------------------------


We've also seen cases posted here where SOME speakers show the dip and others don't -- which would suggest it can't be the mic.


This definitely bears further study, however.


ETA: Anthem has a tool for extracting the raw data from the file so they can see variation between mic positions, but I don't have access to that tool.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17539331
> 
> 
> I was not aware the 2-4 K issue was a deliberate B&W design choice. Do you have more info on that? It is much more evident on my measurements of the 802Ds than the 803Ns. I am going to compare correcting to 1k and correcting to 5K, but that will have to wait until I get the other issues ironed out.



I'm not well versed in the theory, but some have said it has to do with improving the power response, which is desirable for musical quality, and others have said it compensates for crossover component heating. I have not researched the topic, though. I'm quite certain that if B&W wanted a flat on-axis response in that region, they'd be able to achieve it.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17539364
> 
> 
> This definitely bears further study, however.



That is my main point. As I have no ARC mics, I cannot facilitate any such independent testing, as by B&K, for example. Or maybe Anthem would allow some friendly probing of how their mic calibration files are generated. Do they measure to 20 kHz, and if so, how is this done, and is the equipment certified to 20 kHz for on and off-axis mic measurements?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Another thing to try would be to do a "fake" ARC run where you just leave the mic at mic position #1 for all 5 Measurements.


Then compare that result to what you get (red Measured curves) using your normal 5 mic positions. The difference, if any, would be due to speaker directionality I would think.


You'd probably see it most in the Side Surround speakers since they are likely to be closest to the mic positions.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17538753
> 
> 
> dweltman,
> 
> 
> These are good comments! A lot of audio calibrators don't like to see much, if any, processing higher than about 300-500Hz. As folks here know, by default, ARC stops correcting at 5KHz unless you raise Max EQ Frequency.
> 
> 
> Raising Max EQ Frequency also causes ARC to divert resources up there, which may make it harder for it to do its job at lower frequencies. Typically this will show as additional wobbles (residual error) in the green Calculated curves at lower frequencies that go away when you try a new Calculation with a lower Max EQ Frequency setting. Whether or not this happens depends on just how much correction ARC needs to produce for those lower frequencies.
> 
> 
> As always your ears should be your guide. We've had plenty of folks here who have compared various settings for Max EQ Frequency, and for their ears, in their room, with their speakers, they find raising it -- even all the way up to 20KHz works best.
> 
> 
> Some folks have reported that 20KHz is too far and they are happiest backing off from that a bit -- to 15KHz or 10KHz.
> 
> 
> And some folks have reported that they don't like the results at all when ARC is set to do processing up there. They prefer Max EQ Frequency at the default value of 5KHz regardless of what the charts might show. Measuring higher frequencies is tough, given speaker directionality, and environmental factors, and so it is quite possible that ARC may get bad data up there in some rooms with some speakers.
> 
> 
> Again, trust your ears. ARC makes it easy for you to experiment.
> 
> 
> Personally, I prefer my ARC solution at 20KHz. (I posted my latest charts about a week ago.)
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> There are a couple pieces to the Room Gain puzzle. First, ARC is attempting to Measure the inherent, natural Room Gain of your room and preserve it -- even as it eliminates other room response characteristics. If your speakers have Measurement issues near the crossover frequencies, ARC may decide on the wrong value. So if you want to "force" a modestly higher or lower Room Gain and see how that sounds to you, feel free! Again, it is easy to experiment.
> 
> 
> It is more common for ARC to get "confused low" rather than "confused high". If your speakers Measure with a distinct dip near the crossovers, ARC will see that as a 0db, or even negative "natural" Room Gain -- which makes no sense physically -- so it will apply a 0dB or small positive Room Gain instead. When I see that in charts here I suggest folks force that back up to a modest Room Gain -- say 2dB or 2.5dB.
> 
> 
> I don't recall a case where it was obvious ARC was getting "confused high" in its Measurement of the room's "natural" Room Gain, but I suppose that can happen too.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The other piece of the puzzle is what is the "right" Room Gain. ARC makes no choice for you here. It is simply trying to Measure and preserve the natural Room Gain of your room, as determined by its Measurements.
> 
> 
> If the ARC solution preserves the natural Room Gain of your room then real audio events that happen in the room -- e.g., doors closing, will sound more closely matched to the same sorts of events in audio tracks. This means audio tracks should sound more like the "natural", i.e., real, sound of the room.
> 
> 
> People mixing movie tracks typically expect a home theater will have some Room Gain, and they mix accordingly. Room Gains of 2-4dB are common. Nick at Anthem says he's not uncomfortable hearing that some people Measure Room Gains even as high as 6dB, although I can't recall anyone posting charts like that here.
> 
> 
> If a higher Room Gain is screwing up dialog in movies, then that suggests to me that something else is wrong. Typically this would be an indication that the crossover is too high (primarily between Center and Sub) so that some dialog is happening in the sub, but it could also be an indication that the subwoofer is not in proper phase with the main speakers so you are getting some cancellation through the crossover frequency.
> 
> 
> The higher bass contribution of a raised Room Gain can also be a problem for people who are using a subwoofer as an end-table -- right next to their seat. The "near field" response of the subwoofer is what's causing the difference. Try moving the subwoofer to a new location that is more like your distance to your LF/RF speakers.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> But that's for movies. Folks who mix music have no such standardized view of things. And generally this means that folks who LISTEN to music end up preferring less Room Gain for their music listening than for their movie listening. Typically the difference is not much -- perhaps 1dB or 1.5dB.
> 
> 
> With ARC you can, if you choose, force separate Room Gain values for your Movie and Music configurations. Or you might leave one at what ARC found and just adjust the other.
> 
> 
> Again, your ears really are the final judge here.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> *For Newbies*: Room Gain will show on the charts as the shallow hump in the black, dashed Target line for each speaker near the crossover frequencies. If you look at the flat part of the Target curve to the right of that, and take that level as the "basic volume level" of your ARC solution, the peak of the Room Gain hump will rise above that by the dB value in the Room Gain setting.
> 
> 
> Max EQ Frequency is simply the upper limit of ARC's correction efforts. By default is it 5KHz. Frequencies above the Max EQ Frequency setting are not processed except that they contribute to ARC's calculation of the volume trim for each speaker.
> 
> 
> Room Gain and Max EQ Frequency are both in the Targets window. Open up your current ARC results in ARC's "Advanced" mode. Click on Targets to view that window. Make any changes you want to make, and accept those changes (which will also dismiss the Targets window). Then click on Calculate to tell ARC to build a new solution using those new Targets, and if you like what you see, click on Upload to transfer that new solution to your Anthem.
> 
> 
> If you are using both Movie and Music configurations, be sure to adjust the Target values for both configurations. You can use different Target values in the two configurations.
> 
> 
> You don't have to re-Measure to do this, so you can experiment Calculating with different Target values in almost no time at all, and then Upload whichever result you want to try for listening.
> 
> 
> I recommend you do *NOT* fiddle with the speaker configuration values in the Targets window (speaker "cutoffs" or speaker "full range" settings) without posting your charts here and asking for advice first. But the Room Gain and Max EQ Frequency values are safe for you to play with.
> 
> 
> If you post your charts here, please also post the Targets window so we can see what settings you used that resulted in those charts.
> 
> 
> The "Auto Detect" button in the Targets window will restore ALL the Targets settings back to the original values ARC chose based on your set of speaker Measurements. So if you get lost when making Targets changes, just do an Auto Detect in there to start over.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


If I were to superimpose my sub curve overtop of my speaker curves, shouldn't the lower end of the curve remain flat from the high gain at the lower end of the speaker curves to the lowest point of the subs frequency curve? If I am correct, shouldn't I either have to raise the x-over of the sub or lower the x-over or the speakers or do a little of both in order to force this to overlap more to essentially avoid a dip at the x-over point?

Attachment 158348 

Attachment 158349 

Attachment 158350 

Attachment 158351


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17539559
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> If I were to superimpose my sub curve overtop of my speaker curves, shouldn't the lower end of the curve remain flat from the high gain at the lower end of the speaker curves to the lowest point of the subs frequency curve? If I am correct, shouldn't I either have to raise the x-over of the sub or lower the x-over or the speakers or do a little of both in order to force this to overlap more to essentially avoid a dip at the x-over point?
> 
> Attachment 158348
> 
> Attachment 158349
> 
> Attachment 158350
> 
> Attachment 158351



Keep in mind that the crossover is not a hard cutoff. There's a frequency range in there where the content is playing on both speakers. It's additive.


So it's more like 72dB + 72dB = 75dB as regards steered bass.


I think you can feel quite confident that ARC has the crossover math correct.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

Bob;


Here ae my latest measurements. Fixed the 75dB issue. Room gain was still calculated by ARC to 3.9, so I did calc with room gain forced to 2 and max eq of 1000k.


what do you think?


----------



## dweltman

here are curves with 1dB room gain and the center if I put room gain at 0.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17539584
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the crossover is not a hard cutoff. There's a frequency range in there where the content is playing on both speakers. It's additive.
> 
> 
> So it's more like 72dB + 72dB = 75dB as regards steered bass.
> 
> 
> I think you can feel quite confident that ARC has the crossover math correct.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I figured there was something I was missing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17539710
> 
> 
> here are curves with 1dB room gain and the center if I put room gain at 0.



Everything looks nice at 2dB except for Center. That 17dB swing is really killing you there. Something is not right. Time to figure out what.


Speed things up by Measuring just LF/RF/C. Set Music same as Movie. First swap the speaker wires at the speaker end between LF and C. If the problem moves to LF, it is something before the speaker. D2v output, wires to amp, amp channel, or speaker wires.


Presuming the problem stays in C, and you are sure you have it wired correctly, then swap those speaker wires again and move C to an entirely different location in the room. If possible change its height off the floor as well.


If the 17dB swing is still in C that suggests a broken speaker. If it flattens out then you need to rethink your normal placement for C.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib

Not sure if anyone else has/had this issue..


I have an oppo blu-ray player, outputting via hdmi via stream, to Dvdo Duo, then Audio HDMI out to the D2v.


I have sound, and get the D2v to display DTS HD MA..


Watching Blu-ray of Transformers 2 - big screen edition..


All seems to sound good...I hear good bass, surrounds...


but...


Noticed a few minutes into the film, that the info that should be only in center speaker, is also in main left/right speakers... So talking for example, is out of all 3 front speakers.



I'm configured to use a 7.1 system, and am using the latest BETA firmware.



When I noticed this little bug, I switched input to a non used input, then went back to the input I was on.. Then, all sounded better, only center was doing the talking..



Then..


About 1 hour left into film, I started to hear digital pops/scrambling (like a poor bit rate sound for mp3, like a gargle pop digital pop noises).. At this time, also noticed that talking went back to all 3 front speakers...



Again, changed input on anthem, then back, and all good for rest of movie..



Anyone else know what is going on...



I have tried only a few other movies with DTS HD MA with this latest firmware, and all good for those..


Thanks..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It helps if you specify the version numbers. What version of Oppo firmware? What version of D2v firmware?


What is the audio track on that disc? 5.1 or 7.1 DTS-HD MA?


If you can get it to happen again, then while it is happening:


1) Press Select multiple times and post here the input audio details including audio type and active input channels, and also the output audio active speakers as shown in those info displays.


2) Press Mode once and report the audio surround mode in effect.


3) Press THX once and report whether THX post processing is turned on.


I don't know what's happening, but this info might help point us in the right direction.


Are you sure audio was coming from C when you also heard it from LF/RF, or is it possible C went silent and its audio was steered to LF/RF?

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/17540664
> 
> 
> Not sure if anyone else has/had this issue..
> 
> 
> I have an oppo blu-ray player, outputting via hdmi via stream, to Dvdo Duo, then Audio HDMI out to the D2v.
> 
> 
> I have sound, and get the D2v to display DTS HD MA..
> 
> 
> Watching Blu-ray of Transformers 2 - big screen edition..
> 
> 
> All seems to sound good...I hear good bass, surrounds...
> 
> 
> but...
> 
> 
> Noticed a few minutes into the film, that the info that should be only in center speaker, is also in main left/right speakers... So talking for example, is out of all 3 front speakers.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm configured to use a 7.1 system, and am using the latest BETA firmware.
> 
> 
> 
> When I noticed this little bug, I switched input to a non used input, then went back to the input I was on.. Then, all sounded better, only center was doing the talking..
> 
> 
> 
> Then..
> 
> 
> About 1 hour left into film, I started to hear digital pops/scrambling (like a poor bit rate sound for mp3, like a gargle pop digital pop noises).. At this time, also noticed that talking went back to all 3 front speakers...
> 
> 
> 
> Again, changed input on anthem, then back, and all good for rest of movie..
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone else know what is going on...
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried only a few other movies with DTS HD MA with this latest firmware, and all good for those..
> 
> 
> Thanks..



This definitely sounds like an email to Nick. I didn't notice this with my D2v playing transformers form my oppo. I was bitstreaming this movie.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks pondering the Test Level issue -- i.e., whether what you target with Test Level will be reflected in ARC's result -- keep in mind that when setting Test Level YOU MUST FIRST ZERO OUT THE VOLUME TRIM FOR LEFT FRONT!


Those two interact.


EXAMPLE: If you want the same SPL meter result for Test Level and Left Front then leave Left Front at 0dB and just adjust Test Level.


My usual instruction is that you zero out ALL the lines and then set Test Level first and then go and set the volume knob on your Sub. But really the only two lines that are critical to zero out first are Left Front (so you can get an accurate setting of Test Level) and whichever of the two subwoofer lines you use when setting its volume knob.


AFTER Uploading an ARC result you may find ARC has set Left Front to a non zero value. This is no problem. ARC uses a wider frequency range than the SPL meter sees to pick the volume trims. In addition, ARC leaves Test Level unchanged on the Upload, and ignores whatever is previously set in Left Front (et. al.) when you do your next ARC Measurement. So you only have to set Test Level correctly one time and ARC will keep using it for each Measurement after that.


But the Test Level you set using the SPL meter must be measured while Left Front is at 0dB or you won't get the desired result.


ETA: Note that the above is not an explanation of the 6dB problem I've been tracking. That is, even AFTER doing the above, the 6dB problem exists for me -- I have to lower Test Level an additional 6dB to get the right result from ARC in my setup. But I thought it would be worth repeating the instructions above so that folks are all looking at this problem the same way. What we are trying to get is for ARC to produce the same result as Test Level, when Test Level has been correctly set, as above, before the ARC Measurements.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17540891
> 
> 
> It helps if you specify the version numbers. What version of Oppo firmware? What version of D2v firmware?
> 
> 
> What is the audio track on that disc? 5.1 or 7.1 DTS-HD MA?
> 
> 
> If you can get it to happen again, then while it is happening:
> 
> 
> 1) Press Select multiple times and post here the input audio details including audio type and active input channels, and also the output audio active speakers as shown in those info displays.
> 
> 
> 2) Press Mode once and report the audio surround mode in effect.
> 
> 
> 3) Press THX once and report whether THX post processing is turned on.
> 
> 
> I don't know what's happening, but this info might help point us in the right direction.
> 
> 
> Are you sure audio was coming from C when you also heard it from LF/RF, or is it possible C went silent and its audio was steered to LF/RF?
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob..


Will check the anthem status on what you suggested when I get a chance to try movie again..


The oppo firmware is:


Main Version: BDP83-40-0925

Loader Version: BE2600 or BT0300

Sub Version: MCU83-24-0630


Anthem firmware is newest beta (2.08 - nov.5)


Movie is : DTS HD MA 5.1


I sent off a email to Nick aswell, will keep all posted..


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17539364
> 
> 
> We've also seen cases posted here where SOME speakers show the dip and others don't -- which would suggest it can't be the mic.
> 
> 
> This definitely bears further study, however.



I have the identical dip - except it is slightly lower (~13KHz). I have B&Ws as well.


I thought it was severe HF cancellation somehow from the room, but it is too consistent from speaker to speaker.


Hopefully we can find out more about this.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17541913
> 
> 
> I have the identical dip - except it is slightly lower (~13KHz). I have B&Ws as well.
> 
> 
> I thought it was severe HF cancellation somehow from the room, but it is too consistent from speaker to speaker.
> 
> 
> Hopefully we can find out more about this.



Sean Olive posted his measurements of a B&W 802 here , and it shows no sign of this HF dip. Scroll down to slide 8. It is the data from his tests on room correction algorithms, discussed in this thread .


----------



## dweltman

That was a very interesting thread, Roger. Especially since it includes an Anthem ARC and b&W 802 in the test. I will experiment further and report back.


----------



## studlygoorite

Just an observation, since I have downloaded 2.08 and re-run ARC I notice that my Anthem Cinema audio mode for 2 channel is no longer my favorite mode for listening as I can now hear all voices in the back speakers. Switching to PLIIx Movie is fine though. John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17543074
> 
> 
> Just an observation, since I have downloaded 2.08 and re-run ARC I notice that my Anthem Cinema audio mode for 2 channel is no longer my favorite mode for listening as I can now hear all voices in the back speakers. Switching to PLIIx Movie is fine though. John



Personally, in my 5.1 speaker system, I still prefer AL-Cinema when watching normal TV and prefer PLIIx-Movie when watching stereo Movies (even on TV).


Do you think there's a bug in AL-Cinema in V2.08? Or just that you are now better hearing what was always there?


Also, with an ARC setup, my preference is to make sure THX post processing is turned off. Keep in mind that you need to check this for each audio type, so if you have been using THX ON for a while, check with each audio type until you have it off for all -- and also go into Setup > Mode Presets and remove the THX option from each line for each device so it doesn't get turned back on by application of these default settings.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks who believe they are getting odd results from the ARC mic, please do a few simple checks to make sure there's not something silly going on here.


First, fire up ARC just the way you do it when you want to make a new set of Measurements. I.e., if you double-click the shortcut on the desktop to start a new set of Measurements do that, rather than double clicking on some ARC results file you might already have, or vice versa. You won't need either the serial cable or the ARC mic attached.


If asked, select ARC's "Advanced" mode. Now, in the Help menu, select About and confirm you are running ARC V2.3. This is just to make sure you aren't accidentally running some older version of ARC you might still have on your computer.


----------------------------------------


The copy of ARC you should be running is the one the installer places in Windows Program Files.


In My Computer, double click on your main hard drive (usually C: ), then double click on Program Files, then on Anthem, and finally on Anthem Room Correction.


In that folder is the installed copy of your ARC application. If you are not certain that's the one you are running you can make a new Shortcut to it and drag that to the Desktop.


Also in that folder you should find the versions of the Manual you asked for, and your two licensing/calibration files. The pair of licensing/calibration files will have names made up of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem processor and the serial number of your ARC mic. Take a moment to verify that these actually match your Anthem and your ARC mic. For the Anthem, press Select repeatedly and the serial number will be the last value displayed before it rolls around to start over again.


And finally, there should be one other file in there named RecalibrationData.CAL. I want you to double check that this file is actually in there, in this folder, with your installed copy of the ARC application.


If RecalibrationData is *NOT* in there, this may be another system of the installer screw-up caused by Microsoft in September. I've seen no reports of this file not getting properly installed, but please check and report if it is missing. If anyone discovers it is missing, just post here and we'll talk about how to get it.


-------------------------------------------


For folks with the original D2 or AVM 50, your unit firmware should be no older than V1.33.


For folks with a D2v or AVM 50v, your unit firmware should be no older than V2.07.


--------------------------------------------


The ARC mic should probably be attached directly to a USB input on your computer, as opposed to going through any sort of USB hub.


Make sure you have no other programs running during any ARC Measurement pass. Check among the icons in the Task Tray in the lower right of your Windows screen for things like Windows Messenger that you might have starting up automatically when you boot up. Typically you can click or right-click on such icons and Exit out of those background programs prior to doing your ARC Measurements.


-------------------------------------------


The ARC mic must be pointed STRAIGHT UP at each of the mic positions. The mic tip should be positioned at seated ear height but not immediately adjacent to, or blocked by, any surface such as a seat back or wall. Raise the mic tip a few inches or position the mic a foot closer to the screen to clear a seat back. Stay at least a couple feet away from walls if at all possible. The clip end of the stand holding the mic should not be touching a surface.


----------------------------------------------


This is all basic stuff, but I'm posting it so that we can be sure we are chasing a real issue and not simply a case of install problems or operator error.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17543165
> 
> 
> Personally, in my 5.1 speaker system, I still prefer AL-Cinema when watching normal TV and prefer PLIIx-Movie when watching stereo Movies (even on TV).
> 
> 
> Do you think there's a bug in AL-Cinema in V2.08? Or just that you are now better hearing what was always there?
> 
> 
> Also, with an ARC setup, my preference is to make sure THX post processing is turned off. Keep in mind that you need to check this for each audio type, so if you have been using THX ON for a while, check with each audio type until you have it off for all -- and also go into Setup > Mode Presets and remove the THX option from each line for each device so it doesn't get turned back on by application of these default settings.
> 
> --Bob



Not sure if there is a bug or what but THX is off, AL Cinema would not be an option if it was on. The voices are the voices you should only hear in the fronts/center. It now sounds like 7ch stereo. Made sure that THX is off for all modes. It's no biggie as the PLIIx Movie sounds great anyway just wanted to mention my findings as AL Cinema used to be my favorite for 2 ch. I have since purchased a pair of Paradigm ADP 590s for my rear channels in my 7.1 system and switched the option in the Anthem to Dipole from Direct but I doubt that had anything to do with it. Thanks John


----------



## wse

Benchmarking any one heard the new trinov


----------



## emailtim

Sorry, I have not been monitoring this thread closely in the last few months.


Does the Anthem D2V support the Digital Volume Control (or equivalent) yet (e.g. commercial volume suppression)?


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17544927
> 
> 
> Sorry, I have not been monitoring this thread closely in the last few months.
> 
> 
> Does the Anthem D2V support the Digital Volume Control (or equivalent) yet (e.g. commercial volume suppression)?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim



The Dolby Volume feature will be added to the D2v as a free firmware upgrade. It is expected "real soon now". It will do what you are looking for.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17544738
> 
> 
> Not sure if there is a bug or what but THX is off, AL Cinema would not be an option if it was on. The voices are the voices you should only hear in the fronts/center. It now sounds like 7ch stereo. Made sure that THX is off for all modes. It's no biggie as the PLIIx Movie sounds great anyway just wanted to mention my findings as AL Cinema used to be my favorite for 2 ch. I have since purchased a pair of Paradigm ADP 590s for my rear channels in my 7.1 system and switched the option in the Anthem to Dipole from Direct but I doubt that had anything to do with it. Thanks John



That sounds like either a bug or a setup error. I presume you redid your ARC Measurements after changing the speakers. If you are not certain whether you have preserved the Setup menu changes ARC Uploaded after that Upload, you can simply re-open the file in ARC's Advanced mode and Upload it again.


Also double check that you don't have any of the "temporary" audio adjustments in effect -- the ones you can set from the buttons on the remote.


To clear all of those at once for all sources, go into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings


2) Reload Factory Defaults -- continue using the Front Panel display if you lose video.


3) Reload Saved User Settings.


Also, if this is the first time you've wired up Rear speakers, double check that you are using the correct output jacks from the D2v. There's a second sub and second Center output that you can plug into by mistake for example. Use the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration to confirm the correct channel is wired to each speaker.


----------------------------------------------


I can't check this for you since I only have a 5.1 speaker setup. Perhaps someone here with a 7.1 speaker setup can try AL-Cinema and see if something fishy seems to be happening in the Rear speakers.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17545119
> 
> 
> That sounds like either a bug or a setup error. I presume you redid your ARC Measurements after changing the speakers. If you are not certain whether you have preserved the Setup menu changes ARC Uploaded after that Upload, you can simply re-open the file in ARC's Advanced mode and Upload it again.
> 
> 
> Also double check that you don't have any of the "temporary" audio adjustments in effect -- the ones you can set from the buttons on the remote.
> 
> 
> To clear all of those at once for all sources, go into Setup and:
> 
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 
> 
> 2) Reload Factory Defaults -- continue using the Front Panel display if you lose video.
> 
> 
> 3) Reload Saved User Settings.
> 
> 
> Also, if this is the first time you've wired up Rear speakers, double check that you are using the correct output jacks from the D2v. There's a second sub and second Center output that you can plug into by mistake for example. Use the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration to confirm the correct channel is wired to each speaker.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I can't check this for you since I only have a 5.1 speaker setup. Perhaps someone here with a 7.1 speaker setup can try AL-Cinema and see if something fishy seems to be happening in the Rear speakers.
> 
> --Bob



I re-did ARC from scratch when I put the new speakers in and yes I had a 7.1 set up before. If the "temporary" audio adjustments you speak of are the volume level adjustments then they are all at 0. Thanks


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17545066
> 
> 
> The Dolby Volume feature will be added to the D2v as a free firmware upgrade. It is expected "real soon now". It will do what you are looking for.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks for the quick response.


Sincerely,

Tim


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17542870
> 
> 
> That was a very interesting thread, Roger. Especially since it includes an Anthem ARC and b&W 802 in the test. I will experiment further and report back.



I would heed the advice of your calibrator to do some acoustic intervention first before doing any measurements. Having top notch equipment does not guarantee best performance if the environment is not suited for it. Its like driving a Ferrari on a dirt road with potholes


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17541913
> 
> 
> I have the identical dip - except it is slightly lower (~13KHz). I have B&Ws as well.
> 
> 
> I thought it was severe HF cancellation somehow from the room, but it is too consistent from speaker to speaker.
> 
> 
> Hopefully we can find out more about this.



I have B&W CDM9-NT's for my left and right speakers and a HTM3S center channel speaker and have the same dip. When I set the cut off frequency up at 20KHz the sound becomes much too bright. I believe there is a glitch in the Anthem room correction software. I am going back to setting the cut off frequency back to 5KHz.


----------



## bluemark81

A friend of mine is looking at either the D2v or the Integra 9.9. Of course, I can only advise him on the D2v. I have not heard the 9.9, but the reviews do seem very good on them. Has anyone here had the chance to compare the 9.9 to the D2v or 50v? What are your thoughts?


----------



## vengazor

So is it safe to try the upgrade to 2.08? or should I wait? has the problem been solved yet so that it is safe to proceed?

Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17547190
> 
> 
> So is it safe to try the upgrade to 2.08? or should I wait? has the problem been solved yet so that it is safe to proceed?
> 
> Thanks



Although the odds seem to be in favor of doing the upgrade, at this point I'd recommend people wait at least a few more days to see what Anthem Engineering discovers regarding the install failure cases.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks who decide they prefer the default 5KHz Max EQ Frequency setting, please post your 5KHz results as well as the results from the higher setting you found less preferable so everyone can see what's different.


Things we should look at would include how much correction ARC thought it was doing up at the higher frequencies, as well as whether raising Max EQ Frequency actually resulted in a lesser quality solution at lower frequencies due to diversion of resources.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

I am considering active bi-amping my two front speakers. I have a 5.1 set up. I am considering an electonic (active) crossover to be placed between the D2 and the amps. I am running ARC.

Questions:

* has anyone here done that? If so, what was your experience?

* I am aware that the D2 is sending certain low frequencies directly to the sub. How can I determine the crossover frequencies of the D2, specifically, what frecuencies is the D2 sending directly to the sub?

Thanks!!


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/17547364
> 
> 
> I am considering active bi-amping my two front speakers. I have a 5.1 set up. I am considering an electonic (active) crossover to be placed between the D2 and the amps.



What kind of speakers? Do they allow you to bypass the internal crossover, or they merely remove the jumper straps between the low and high freq drivers? If the latter, you don't need, or want, an electronic crossover in the path.


Just feed the D2 output to a Y splitter into dual power amps, of equal gain, and thence to the speakers. This is not an endorsement of bi-amping, just how to do it.


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/17547364
> 
> 
> I am considering active bi-amping my two front speakers. I have a 5.1 set up. I am considering an electonic (active) crossover to be placed between the D2 and the amps. I am running ARC.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> * has anyone here done that? If so, what was your experience?
> 
> * I am aware that the D2 is sending certain low frequencies directly to the sub. How can I determine the crossover frequencies of the D2, specifically, what frecuencies is the D2 sending directly to the sub?
> 
> Thanks!!



Bob can correct me if I'm wrong but I believe ARC still allows you to manually fix the crossover to the sub.


Also, Roger is right you will not need or want an active crossover for bi-amping the mains unless you bypass the internal passive crossovers. In that case then yes, bi-amping can be a very good thing. I finally went with simplicity and used passive crossovers in my surrounds but everything else uses all active, my opinion active is the only way to go.


mk


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17547412
> 
> 
> What kind of speakers? Do they allow you to bypass the internal crossover, or they merely remove the jumper straps between the low and high freq drivers? If the latter, you don't need, or want, an electronic crossover in the path.



The speakers are Magnepan 20.1. They have an external crossover box and are designed to allow bi-amping.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17547233
> 
> 
> For folks who decide they prefer the default 5KHz Max EQ Frequency setting, please post your 5KHz results as well as the results from the higher setting you found less preferable so everyone can see what's different.
> 
> 
> Things we should look at would include how much correction ARC thought it was doing up at the higher frequencies, as well as whether raising Max EQ Frequency actually resulted in a lesser quality solution at lower frequencies due to diversion of resources.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I haven't actually decided which frequency setting I am going to upload yet, but here are my 5000, which I'm currently using:

Attachment 158451 

Attachment 158452 

Attachment 158453 

Attachment 158454 


And here are my 20000 results. I am also trying 10000 and 15000.

Attachment 158455 

Attachment 158456 

Attachment 158457 

Attachment 158458


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17547649
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I haven't actually decided which frequency setting I am going to upload yet, but here are my 5000, which I'm currently using:
> 
> Attachment 158451
> 
> Attachment 158452
> 
> Attachment 158453
> 
> Attachment 158454
> 
> 
> And here are my 20000 results. I am also trying 10000 and 15000.
> 
> Attachment 158455
> 
> Attachment 158456
> 
> Attachment 158457
> 
> Attachment 158458



Don't know why my 5000 Hz results never took, so here we go again:

Attachment 158459 

Attachment 158460 

Attachment 158461 

Attachment 158462


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17547132
> 
> 
> A friend of mine is looking at either the D2v or the Integra 9.9. Of course, I can only advise him on the D2v. I have not heard the 9.9, but the reviews do seem very good on them. Has anyone here had the chance to compare the 9.9 to the D2v or 50v? What are your thoughts?



Yes, I sold my D2 early this year and had the 9.9 as a backup processor. The 9.9 video processor cannot accept 24fps. All of the ISF controls dont work. With a source at 60fps, all ISF controls work. The room correction curve of the lack a little brilliance in my opinion. Other than that, if you are looking for the best bang for the buck, look no further.


I settled for the AVM50v instead of the D2v because I believe that the ARC feature is the dominant factor in choosing my AV processor. I just cannot hear the dirrerence when ARC in on.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17547665
> 
> 
> Yes, I sold my D2 early this year and had the 9.9 as a backup processor. The 9.9 video processor cannot accept 24fps. All of the ISF controls dont work. With a source at 60fps, all ISF controls work. The room correction curve of the lack a little brilliance in my opinion. Other than that, if you are looking for the best bang for the buck, look no further.
> 
> 
> I settled for the AVM50v instead of the D2v because I believe that the ARC feature is the dominant factor in chhosing my AV processor. I just cannot hear the dirrerence when ARC in on.



Thanks:


When you say all the ISF controls don't work, can you be more specific? Is it due to bugs, or other factors? I know he listens to a fair number of both redbook cd's and sacd's, so the musicality of the unit will be critical. There is a huge difference in price and I am trying to convince him to get the D2v, but I really don't have any valid arguement favoring the D2v where I have not heard the 9.9 and on paper it appears to have as much and maybe more than the D2v.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/17546908
> 
> 
> I have B&W CDM9-NT's for my left and right speakers and a HTM3S center channel speaker and have the same dip. When I set the cut off frequency up at 20KHz the sound becomes much too bright. I believe there is a glitch in the Anthem room correction software. I am going back to setting the cut off frequency back to 5KHz.



Actually in the pro world, a flat response from 100hz to 8khz then a 1-3dB drop in the response to 16khz in a small room. In a concert hall the 1dB drop starts at 1khz. This is due to factors that affect the measurement instruments. Having a flat response up to 20k is not desirable for most, as it tends to be overly bright. Having a flat response to 8k and a shallow rolloff is more pleasing to my ears that a flat response.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17547709
> 
> 
> Thanks:
> 
> 
> When you say all the ISF controls don't work, can you be more specific? Is it due to bugs, or other factors? I know he listens to a fair number of both redbook cd's and sacd's, so the musicality of the unit will be critical. There is a huge difference in price and I am trying to convince him to get the D2v, but I really don't have any valid arguement favoring the D2v where I have not heard the 9.9 and on paper it appears to have as much and maybe more than the D2v.



It might be a firmware issue, I have not looked at any firmware for the last 5 months because of the arrival of the AVM50v. One of the main feature of the 9.9 is the ability to control aspect ratio, bias, gain and basic video controls from the AV processor and for a per input basis. This only works if you sent a 60fps signal, if you send a 24fps, the controls are non operational.


Frankly, I still prefer ARC over Audyssey(Onkyo Curve). There's something missing at the top end. I wish Dolby volume was here with our Anthem's as it is the only feature that I miss with the 9.9 (audyssey's dynamic eq and vol.)


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/17547507
> 
> 
> The speakers are Magnepan 20.1. They have an external crossover box and are designed to allow bi-amping.



In that case I would definitely go active. Be aware that it may not be as simple as just applying a crossover curve however. The existing passive crossovers likely have corrections in the transfer functions. To do it right will require extensive measurements. Also, those measurements are more complex than a simple box speaker due to the large planer surfaces and due to the dipole radiation pattern. The measurements will have to be made in an anechoic environment at a great enough distance from the speaker to fully account for the dipole effect. One way to do this is to put the speaker up in the air away from reflective surfaces. Another method is to lay it on the ground on a flat surface with no objects near the speaker. You have to take into account the ground plane effect from this however. It's not going to be a trivial task so unless you have a lot of experience or want to spend a lot of time researching and experimenting it may not be worth it.


mk


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17547215
> 
> 
> Although the odds seem to be in favor of doing the upgrade, at this point I'd recommend people wait at least a few more days to see what Anthem Engineering discovers regarding the install failure cases.
> 
> --Bob



According to Nick at Anthem, the following are the platforms that he has in his office/lab and has obviously tested OK for firmware upgrades:


XP with serial (desktop and laptop)

XP laptop and Keyspan via USB v1.1

XP desktop and Keyspan via USB 2

Mac running Bootcamp (XP) and Keyspan

Vista 64 and Keyspan


Has anyone failed a FW upgrade with any of the above platforms?


Anyhow, Nick believes they have narrowed down the possibilities and the cure (his words) is a modified software installer. This will take a few days work in his opinion. So maybe sometime next week(at the earliest), we might have a new software installer.


I am one of those unfortunate ones whose bricked my 50v plus and extra video board in a failed attempt to do a FW upload and had to unplug and ship the whole stuff back to Anthem. I have been processor less for a week and its no fun at all, since the 50v was the brain center of my AV system










They couldn't duplicate my errors in their setup since I'm running Vista 32 (Home Premium) on a Dell laptop. They re-programmed it and its on the way to me


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17547748
> 
> 
> Actually in the pro world, a flat response from 100hz to 8khz then a 1-3dB drop in the response to 16khz in a small room. In a concert hall the 1dB drop starts at 1khz. This is due to factors that affect the measurement instruments. Having a flat response up to 20k is not desirable for most, as it tends to be overly bright. Having a flat response to 8k and a shallow rolloff is more pleasing to my ears that a flat response.



In the Sean Olive presentation Roger quoted earlier, it does mention that their testing agrees with the concept of a shallow HF rolloff being the preferred setting


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You will notice on some ARC charts that ARC has built a shallow roll off into the highest frequencies of the Target curves. This is based on what ARC Measures from your particular choice of speakers. Of course no processing is done up there to correct to that Target curve unless you raise Max EQ Frequency.

--Bob


----------



## ragdog

I explained to Nick that we used a laptop with serial port and it failed in XPPro. Also I am aware of a Mac in XpPro with a keyspan usb2 that failed. So we are waiting for the cure software as Nick advised me. I hope this works and if not back to Anthem.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17548603
> 
> 
> According to Nick at Anthem, the following are the platforms that he has in his office/lab and has obviously tested OK for firmware upgrades:
> 
> 
> XP with serial (desktop and laptop)
> 
> XP laptop and Keyspan via USB v1.1
> 
> XP desktop and Keyspan via USB 2
> 
> Mac running Bootcamp (XP) and Keyspan
> 
> Vista 64 and Keyspan
> 
> 
> Has anyone failed a FW upgrade with any of the above platforms?
> 
> 
> Anyhow, Nick believes they have narrowed down the possibilities and the cure (his words) is a modified software installer. This will take a few days work in his opinion. So maybe sometime next week(at the earliest), we might have a new software installer.
> 
> 
> I am one of those unfortunate ones whose bricked my 50v plus and extra video board in a failed attempt to do a FW upload and had to unplug and ship the whole stuff back to Anthem. I have been processor less for a week and its no fun at all, since the 50v was the brain center of my AV system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They couldn't duplicate my errors in their setup since I'm running Vista 32 (Home Premium) on a Dell laptop. They re-programmed it and its on the way to me


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We've also had reports here of folks trying several different computers with different styles of serial and having no luck with any of them.


And then there's the European poster whose dealer tried a particular laptop on his D2v (failure), another new D2v (failure) and a 3rd D2v (success!).


In the end I don't think this particular problem is going to turn out to be due to the computer/serial setup. But rather that the installer is trying to do something new with the video board and due to the timing of the command or normal manufacturing variances in the programmable parts of the video board that particular action is just not reliable.


And so the fix will -- I suspect -- come from an adjustment in the installer code to be more robust as regards that particular command across the range of normal variance in the programmable parts on the video board.


We know that the V2.07x betas included a new style of programming for the video board. This was the cause for concern that if the install failed while programming the video board you might not be able to roll back to "official" V2.07 because the board might be left in an intermediate state between the two styles of programming. So I think what's happened here is that this change required some tuning in how the installer interacts with the video board and as more people tried it (now that V2.08 is "official") it was discovered that this installer tuning was not quite right.


This is similar to the rather long delays built into the installer at the points where it commands the D2v to turn on and turn off during the install. Originally these delays were shorter, but it was learned that some production processors took a little longer to do this than others, so the delay was lengthened to avoid problems.


I wouldn't be surprised if that sort of thing is going on here as well -- e.g., a delay is needed after the video processor is commanded to reset. Or the command needs to be sent multiple times to make sure it hasn't been issued, by chance, when the video processor is unable to comply immediately -- and that "robustness" coding in the installer just needs to be tuned up a bit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" ARC Version V2.4 Now on Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem has just placed "Test" ARC V2.4 on their password protected download page. Change notes for changes since "official" ARC V2.3 read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.4:
> 
> 
> 1. Added Windows 7 compatibility.



Evidently there is no need to install ARC V2.4 unless you wish to run it on a Windows 7 system.


As always, "test" software is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises.


If you decide you need to roll back to "official" ARC V2.3 for any reason, and if the ARC V2.3 installer balks because the version is older, simply uninstall ARC V2.4 using Windows Add/Remove Programs and then the ARC V2.3 installer will stop complaining. Your pair of licensing/calibration files is left in place when you uninstall like this, so you don't need to do anything special about them for the reinstall.


If this is your first time installing ARC on a new Windows 7 computer, download the ARC V2.4 install kit, unzip it, and navigate into it to find the folder with the Setup.exe program (the installer itself). Then insert you original ARC install CD (cancel out of the installer if it starts up automatically) and navigate to the same place in it. In there, on the CD, find your 2 licensing/calibration files. These are easy to spot as their names are made up of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC mic. Drag these two files from the CD into the folder you downloaded so that they are copied into the same place as Setup.exe in the folder you downloaded. Then eject your CD and run Setup.exe (the installer) in the folder you downloaded. The ARC V2.4 installer will copy your pair of licensing/calibration files to the correct location as part of the install.


There are no changes in any of the other things included in the ARC V2.4 install kit compared to V2.3. The Manuals, Utilities, and documentation for things like RS-232 commands are all the same.


----------------------------------------


ETA: 2 hours later.


NOTE: Nick at Anthem tells me the Utility programs in the Utilities folder -- things like SettingsBackup and LiveVideoSettingsEditor -- have also been tested under Windows 7 and no changes were needed. Thus the Utilities you have in place in your current ARC V2.3 setup are also good to go as regards Windows 7. The only change that was needed for Windows 7 compatibility was a change in the way the ARC application itself acquires audio from the USB ARC mic. That change is in this "test" ARC V2.4 version.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/17547908
> 
> 
> In that case I would definitely go active. Be aware that it may not be as simple as just applying a crossover curve however. The existing passive crossovers likely have corrections in the transfer functions. To do it right will require extensive measurements. Also, those measurements are more complex than a simple box speaker due to the large planer surfaces and due to the dipole radiation pattern. The measurements will have to be made in an anechoic environment at a great enough distance from the speaker to fully account for the dipole effect. One way to do this is to put the speaker up in the air away from reflective surfaces. Another method is to lay it on the ground on a flat surface with no objects near the speaker. You have to take into account the ground plane effect from this however. It's not going to be a trivial task so unless you have a lot of experience or want to spend a lot of time researching and experimenting it may not be worth it.
> 
> mk



And I thought it was going to be easy! I should have known better! I am going to do some experimenting. Fortunately, whatever I plan to do is reversible.


Btw, I saw the link to your HT project. Impressive!!


Thank you!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick forwarded my Utilities on Windows 7 query to Engineering, so we should know something on that soon. His understanding is that the Windows 7 fix for ARC just required a change in the way the USB ARC mic was used, so since the Utility programs don't need that, they should be OK as is, but again he's checking.


-------------------------------


On the V2.08 install issue, the improved installer should be available quite soon. They are certain it will greatly reduce the possibility of this failure, and have some reason to believe it may eliminate it entirely.


Unfortunately, it appears units that have already suffered this problem can not be fixed simply by using the new installer. They are working on a procedure right now for a fix in the field to avoid having to send units back to Anthem. This would involve opening the chassis (i.e., removing the upper cover) and attaching some sort of cable to the video board, and then running a new Windows utility program that will command the video board to reset itself properly. Kind of like a super "Flash Eraser" just for this problem.


After doing that, you would re-install the firmware using the new, improved installer.


I don't know any more details about that yet. But it sounds like something a dealer could do, or even an owner if you take some care to avoid static discharge when touching the electronics. I don't yet know if the cable is something Anthem has to provide or if it is something that can easily be found locally. At a guess it attaches to a test point on the video board that is used during manufacturing, or it may even be nothing more than applying power to certain test pins so as to force that reset.


We should hear more details shortly. They've got everybody working on this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just that fast I heard back from Nick on the Windows 7 question regarding the Utilities.

*The Utilities are known to work with Windows 7.*


Since there is no change in the Utilities folder for ARC V2.4 compared to ARC V2.3, this also means the Utilities you already have in an ARC V2.3 setup are good to go for use on Windows 7.


The only change they needed to make for ARC V2.4 was with regard to the USB ARC mic audio capture portion of the ARC application itself. A similar change was needed for the PBK software for folks using that on Paradigm subwoofers.


[I'll edit my ARC V2.4 announcement post to reflect this.]

--Bob


----------



## triger716




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17551191
> 
> 
> -------------------------------
> 
> 
> On the V2.08 install issue, the improved installer should be available quite soon. They are certain it will greatly reduce the possibility of this failure, and have some reason to believe it may eliminate it entirely.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> --Bob



With regards to the V2.08 problems I can't help but think of the fact that the past few test firmwares came with the scary warning about the possibility of bricking your unit if the install failed. I also remember Bob saying that they removed the warning because of the fact that they didn't have reason to believe that the failures were actually happening in the field.


I wonder if the V2.08 FW problem is the same problem that they were worried about in the first place?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *triger716* /forum/post/17551358
> 
> 
> With regards to the V2.08 problems I can't help but think of the fact that the past few test firmwares came with the scary warning about the possibility of bricking your unit if the install failed. I also remember Bob saying that they removed the warning because of the fact that they didn't have reason to believe that the failures were actually happening in the field.
> 
> 
> I wonder if the V2.08 FW problem is the same problem that they were worried about in the first place?



Actually I think this one snuck up on them, but the CONSEQUENCE appears to be the same. Since the failure happened during programming of the video board, that board needs special corrective measures before you can do a new install.


What they seem to be working on is a procedure for handling that correction in the field, much like folks use the Flash Eraser utilities now if an install failure leaves the main processor board in an intermediate state.


[There is even a similar fall-back measure for resetting the main processor board in those rare cases when the Flash Eraser doesn't do the job. In that case you need to remove the lid and connect two test point pins on the main board. Then you power up the unit (which forces the reset), power it down, and remove that connection. Then you re-install the firmware.]


Apparently what's going on in the video board is more complicated in that you need to attach this cable (whatever that turns out to be) and then run a utility program on your Windows computer that most likely causes the main board to command the video board to do the hard reset.


I presume they are also still looking into the possibility of an entirely software-only procedure for forcing this reset. With the main board failures (dating back to the original D1 days) the connect-the-pins approach came first and then the Flash Eraser utility.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, the new information that once the install has failed you can't get it to work again without doing a special reset procedure on the video board, shifts the possible root cause back to the computer/serial setup that was used THE FIRST TIME any given owner got the failure.


Trying different computer/serial setups after that wouldn't tell anything new since at that point the video board needs the special reset procedure, so even a perfect computer/serial setup wouldn't work.


---------------------------------------


However this still doesn't explain the report we've had of a particular computer/serial setup failing on one D2v (on the first try at installing V2.08 on that D2v) but working on another D2v.

--Bob


----------



## ragdog

Ok I am wrong, all units with failed video board reset seem to have to go back to Anthem. In any case mine is on the way back. The software will not work and hopefully they will get this thrased out, which I know they will.


----------



## dlynch34

I just ran arc 2.4 measurements with windows 7 on my d2v with success!! IF anyone has questions please let me know.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ragdog* /forum/post/17551987
> 
> 
> Ok I am wrong, all units with failed video board reset seem to have to go back to Anthem. In any case mine is on the way back. The software will not work and hopefully they will get this thrased out, which I know they will.



Still waiting for more info from Nick as to field repair of units bricked this way.


At the moment the only solution is a repair at Anthem, but stay tuned as things are moving quickly.


But for folks being asked to return units to Anthem, please do so rather than waiting. That will probably be your fastest turnaround, and your returned unit will also help Anthem validate their fix.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17552057
> 
> 
> I just ran arc 2.4 measurements with windows 7 on my d2v with success!! IF anyone has questions please let me know.



Cool! What did you use for serial connection, and were you running Windows 7 as 32-bit or 64-bit?

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17552057
> 
> 
> I just ran arc 2.4 measurements with windows 7 on my d2v with success!! IF anyone has questions please let me know.



That deserves a Cookie









John


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17552266
> 
> 
> Cool! What did you use for serial connection, and were you running Windows 7 as 32-bit or 64-bit?
> 
> --Bob



I used 32 bit with a straight serial connection.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17552329
> 
> 
> I used 32 bit with a straight serial connection.



Thanks for that. Here, have a cookie!










--Bob


----------



## muad'dib

Let's hope that the new firmware will also be Windows 7 32/64 bit friendly...


----------



## Warpdrv

Ok first measurements of my new speakers Sigs S8's, C5 and S2's


Thoughts...


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17545119
> 
> 
> That sounds like either a bug or a setup error. I presume you redid your ARC Measurements after changing the speakers. If you are not certain whether you have preserved the Setup menu changes ARC Uploaded after that Upload, you can simply re-open the file in ARC's Advanced mode and Upload it again.
> 
> 
> Also double check that you don't have any of the "temporary" audio adjustments in effect -- the ones you can set from the buttons on the remote.
> 
> 
> To clear all of those at once for all sources, go into Setup and:
> 
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 
> 
> 2) Reload Factory Defaults -- continue using the Front Panel display if you lose video.
> 
> 
> 3) Reload Saved User Settings.
> 
> 
> Also, if this is the first time you've wired up Rear speakers, double check that you are using the correct output jacks from the D2v. There's a second sub and second Center output that you can plug into by mistake for example. Use the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration to confirm the correct channel is wired to each speaker.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I can't check this for you since I only have a 5.1 speaker setup. Perhaps someone here with a 7.1 speaker setup can try AL-Cinema and see if something fishy seems to be happening in the Rear speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Hello,


I can confirm the same behaviour. In "Anthem Logic - Cinema", voices do come out of all seven speakers, but only with certain telecasts. For example, it did occur during a hockey game a few nights ago. It did not occur during a hockey game last night and it most certainly is occuring right now as my family watch CHCH news, channel 218 on Bell ExpressVu.


When it happens, it is not localized to any specific frequency such as around 1 kHz - it occurs full range as if it were a 7 channel stereo effect as Studly described. I too find this to be disappointing as I like Anthem Logic modes for two channel inputs. I cannot say for sure that it started with the 2.08 update and it seems to depend on the broadcaster's transmission mode.


Take Care,

Mike


----------



## jayray

Nick told me that firmware installs and utility functionality would not be affected by win 7. Only ARC was affected by Win 7 due to audio capture incompatability. So we now wait for the first person to try a firmware update using Win 7. Wonder if the keyspan driver works with it. I don't have win 7 on my laptop so I can't try it yet. ARC 2.4 should become official tomorrow.

John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17553218
> 
> 
> Ok first measurements of my new speakers Sigs S8's, C5 and S2's
> 
> 
> Thoughts...



I notice your L/R/C is set to 80 Hz while your Surrounds/Rears are set to 100Hz and Sub is 120. Did you select these settings, or did ARC select them for you?


The reasom I ask is because I am running S6/C3/S6 as L/C/R and S2's for Surrounds/Rears and a Velodyne DD15 as a sub. My settings are 60 Hz for all my speakers and 80 Hz for my sub. I would have thought that your S8's/C5 would be set lower than my S6's or vice vs. In my bass management, all my speakers are set to small and my sub is set to 80 Hz.


Just curious how ARC selects these values.


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17540068
> 
> 
> Everything looks nice at 2dB except for Center. That 17dB swing is really killing you there. Something is not right. Time to figure out what.
> 
> 
> Speed things up by Measuring just LF/RF/C. Set Music same as Movie. First swap the speaker wires at the speaker end between LF and C. If the problem moves to LF, it is something before the speaker. D2v output, wires to amp, amp channel, or speaker wires.
> 
> 
> Presuming the problem stays in C, and you are sure you have it wired correctly, then swap those speaker wires again and move C to an entirely different location in the room. If possible change its height off the floor as well.
> 
> 
> If the 17dB swing is still in C that suggests a broken speaker. If it flattens out then you need to rethink your normal placement for C.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I tried what you suggested, and it looks the issue is my center position









I moved the center speaker next to the right speaker and got the attached curves, in which the 3 speakers look pretty similar. So it's not a broken speaker. I tried moving the center speaker back in the middle but over a foot further out from the front wall, and that did not help










So it's something about being centered along the long wall of my room, under the display, that is causing the issue, not so much the distance from the front wall. Not quite sure how to deal with that. Unless you have a suggestion, I may have to stick with forcing only 1dB of room gain for now.


dave


----------



## tranle

I did a long time ago firmware install on my D2 to 1.47f on Win7 and did not have any problem. I am using Win7 x64 with a Keyspan USB.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/17553450
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I can confirm the same behaviour. In "Anthem Logic - Cinema", voices do come out of all seven speakers, but only with certain telecasts. For example, it did occur during a hockey game a few nights ago. It did not occur during a hockey game last night and it most certainly is occuring right now as my family watch CHCH news, channel 218 on Bell ExpressVu.
> 
> 
> When it happens, it is not localized to any specific frequency such as around 1 kHz - it occurs full range as if it were a 7 channel stereo effect as Studly described. I too find this to be disappointing as I like Anthem Logic modes for two channel inputs. I cannot say for sure that it started with the 2.08 update and it seems to depend on the broadcaster's transmission mode.
> 
> 
> Take Care,
> 
> Mike



I re-loaded default settings twice with no change. It sounds like 7ch stereo on all of my 2ch inputs, my music off the PS3, my Canadian dish and also my Direct TV. It used to be my favorite mode for music also so now I feel I have to try and get to the bottom of this. I will re-measure with ARC again tomorrow and see if that fixes it and if not I will revert back to 2.07 and check that. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is also a known bug in V2.08 (and all earlier versions) where sometimes the Mode Preset for 2.0 input does not get properly applied. I've not heard of this sort of symptom but perhaps this symptom is new to V2.08.


To test if this is the same bug, use the Mode button and the Up/Down arrow keys to shift the audio mode away from AL-Cinema and back. If AL-Cinema works properly immediately after that, then it could be a new symptom of the same bug.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Bob


Just when you think you know how to do everything when setting up your Anthem something new appears.


This is on a D2 running v1.47f

In the Source Setup screen there is now a new line, J that says ANALG AUD


Choices are : 2 ch Bal, 6 ch S/E, DVD, CD, Tape, TV, Sat, VCR, Aux,


I do not see any effect when choosing any of the above.


Know what this is for ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

With V1.33 your only choice for analog audio in a given Source definition was the stereo RCA jack pair of the same name. With the new firmware you now have the option of using any analog input in any Source definition. This setting only has effect if you select ANALOG-DSP or ANALOG-DIRECT as the audio input in this Source (Main Path) or are using analog pass through for Zones 2 or 3 and select this Source.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17554414
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I tried what you suggested, and it looks the issue is my center position
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I moved the center speaker next to the right speaker and got the attached curves, in which the 3 speakers look pretty similar. So it's not a broken speaker. I tried moving the center speaker back in the middle but over a foot further out from the front wall, and that did not help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's something about being centered along the long wall of my room, under the display, that is causing the issue, not so much the distance from the front wall. Not quite sure how to deal with that. Unless you have a suggestion, I may have to stick with forcing only 1dB of room gain for now.
> 
> 
> dave



OK this is progress. You now know you've got a room geometry problem that is affecting all speakers (the 50Hz peak), but is REALLY affecting your Center due to it's location. Since modest repositioning is not fixing this, you need to look into adding bass traps. Start with the front corners and the front wall behind those 3 speakers.


The fact that the centered location couples so strongly may be a good thing, suggesting that front of room traps may be all you need.


Others may chime in here with suggestions, and there is also a Forum here on home theater design where room treatments like this are discussed. Some rooms require additional traps on the other walls at the primary reflection locations.


You'll know it is working when those peaks flatten out, and the result should be well worth the effort.


In the interim, go ahead and reduce Room Gain as ARC is giving you a value that does not work.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/17554417
> 
> 
> I did a long time ago firmware install on my D2 to 1.47f on Win7 and did not have any problem. I am using Win7 x64 with a Keyspan USB.



This is very good to know.

Thanks,

John


----------



## vengazor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ragdog* /forum/post/17551987
> 
> 
> Ok I am wrong, all units with failed video board reset seem to have to go back to Anthem. In any case mine is on the way back. The software will not work and hopefully they will get this thrased out, which I know they will.



Does this mean some video boards are defective or just that the process of upgrading firmware made an error that only Anthem can fix by returning the units?


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17554359
> 
> 
> I notice your L/R/C is set to 80 Hz while your Surrounds/Rears are set to 100Hz and Sub is 120. Did you select these settings, or did ARC select them for you?
> 
> 
> The reasom I ask is because I am running S6/C3/S6 as L/C/R and S2's for Surrounds/Rears and a Velodyne DD15 as a sub. My settings are 60 Hz for all my speakers and 80 Hz for my sub. I would have thought that your S8's/C5 would be set lower than my S6's or vice vs. In my bass management, all my speakers are set to small and my sub is set to 80 Hz.
> 
> 
> Just curious how ARC selects these values.



ARC had set my mains at 60hz and the center at 65 but I adjusted them up higher... ARC set the subs at 120hz, I wasn't sure why it set that, and I didn't have time to check to see what it was set at internally just yet...


My subs are 3 x 18" sealed LMS's + 1 x 15" TC3K, which still need to be EQ'd individually and setup with REW and my DCX 2496, but I figured I'd run ARC now that I finally got my Center channel in play with the rest of my new speakers.


With my Studio 100's I had my XO set at 110hz as my sub just have much more capabilities in that range and I experience no localization with them. I am still going to mess around with the XO's to get it where I feel its best. My room is stupid large at 8200^3 open to everywhere and the mains can't pressurize that room nearly as efforlessly as my subs in that range. So I have to experiment with it a bit more then most would here...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've got an email in to Nick asking whether the problem with Anthem Logic - Cinema acting as if Stereo All was in effect might be a new symptom of the Mode Presets known bug in V2.08.


It would be helpful if someone who can reproduce this Anthem Logic - Cinema problem would try the workaround of using Mode and the arrow keys to switch to a different audio surround mode and back to Anthem Logic - Cinema to see if it cures the problem (at least until you change sources again).


The Mode Presets bug was scheduled to be fixed in a "test" release this week, but I presume that has been delayed while they resolve the V2.08 installer issue.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17555891
> 
> 
> ARC had set my mains at 60hz and the center at 65 but I adjusted them up higher... ARC set the subs at 120hz, I wasn't sure why it set that, and I didn't have time to check to see what it was set at internally just yet...



Why did you raise the fronts?


Remember that the sub value in the Targets window is its "cutoff" -- the upper limit of correction ARC applies to it. To see its "crossover" you need to look in Setup after the Upload. It is typical for the sub cutoff and crossover to be different.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17556532
> 
> 
> Why did you raise the fronts?
> 
> 
> Remember that the sub value in the Targets window is its "cutoff" -- the upper limit of correction ARC applies to it. To see its "crossover" you need to look in Setup after the Upload. It is typical for the sub cutoff and crossover to be different.
> 
> --Bob



Good question - maybe just being stupid... hheheh


I'll reset it back, re-calculate and upload again, either way I have to re-run ARC in my room after I get my subs setup properly, which will all just have to wait until next week after I get back from drinking Mai Tai's on the beach


----------



## Bob Pariseau

warpdrv,

In your case the sub cutoff was likely raised to 120Hz because the sub needs to fill in for the low end of your surrounds -- so you want the sub corrected up there. Its crossover is likely lower.


------------------------------------------------


By the way, on the mic accuracy debate, look at the red Measured curve for RF compared to the other speakers. Unless you assume RF actually has a spike up at the highest frequencies, the small dip Measured up there must be the maximum error you might possibly attribute to the mic -- presuming there actually is a mic error.


But that means the larger and broader dips shown in the other speakers MUST BE REAL.


We've seen numerous charts like this where at least one speaker seems to indicate the mic is good even as other speakers are showing a significant dip.


And of course we've seen numerous cases where people actually corrected most of their dips by repointing their speakers.


I think it is unwise to assume the ARC mic must be the sole or even the main cause of dips shown up there, at least until we get more evidence.


------------------------------------------


I'd like to see your charts with ARC's original choice of cutoffs.


Your sub is a little weak in the low frequencies. It is not bad for home theater but there are subs out there which will go deeper into the subsonics.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17556613
> 
> 
> warpdrv,
> 
> In your case the sub cutoff was likely raised to 120Hz because the sub needs to fill in for the low end of your surrounds -- so you want the sub corrected up there. Its crossover is likely lower.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> By the way, on the mic accuracy debate, look at the red Measured curve for RF compared to the other speakers. Unless you assume RF actually has a spike up at the highest frequencies, the small dip Measured up there must be the maximum error you might possibly attribute to the mic -- presuming there actually is a mic error.
> 
> 
> But that means the larger and broader dips shown in the other speakers MUST BE REAL.
> 
> 
> We've seen numerous charts like this where at least one speaker seems to indicate the mic is good even as other speakers are showing a significant dip.
> 
> 
> And of course we've seen numerous cases where people actually corrected most of their dips by repointing their speakers.
> 
> 
> I think it is unwise to assume the ARC mic must be the sole or even the main cause of dips shown up there, at least until we get more evidence.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I'd like to see your charts with ARC's original choice of cutoffs.
> 
> 
> Your sub is a little weak in the low frequencies. It is not bad for home theater but there are subs out there which will go deeper into the subsonics.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, As far as the MIC goes, I don't think there is a problem with it at all, the surrounds are S2's and should have given a better low freq response, but the rear surrounds are a compromise in my particular setup - the tweeters can't be aimed at the mic in my setup, they are basically just there to fill in the back area for me... nothing more I could do about that, and I'm not concerned about it one bit. I have yet to get my speakers perfectly aimed, but this was just a quick run for my new speakers. I'll continue to work at remeasuring, but even with this first measurement - things sound really amazing










My subs are not the weak link, I'm likely getting some cancellation down low with not having them setup- EQ'd and delayed properly, they all have to be dealt with individually, being placed at different distances, so until I get that right - pretty sure I won't see the proper response... I'll have a full days work with REW and getting all 4 of those subs properly dialed in and then start the remeasuring process...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OK, make sure you don't have a subsonic filter knocking down the low end of the sub setup. Right now it is Measuring good down to about 30Hz -- i.e., that's the point where the low end of the sub crosses down below the basic volume level of the ARC solution.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

Yeah, no highpass filter until 10hz, they are all DIY sealed 18" with 4000w behind them, they don't have any issues with subonics, and have measured very well with REW, I just no the weakest link in my chain is the Sub feed is all the same for each driver right now, and will be adjusting that with the removal of the SMS-1 and replacing it with the DCX2496, to work each sub individually...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17555560
> 
> 
> Does this mean some video boards are defective or just that the process of upgrading firmware made an error that only Anthem can fix by returning the units?



vengazor:


Nick told me that there was nothing wrong with the two video boards I thought I had fried when i attempted the FW upgrades to 2.08. They managed to duplicate the "Video Reset Error Failed" message on my 50v when they received it. They then used a special program to wipe the whole unit and reprogrammed it OK. It was NOT the Flash Erase program that was used to wipe it clean for I had tried that before and still got the failure.


Afterwards, they re-programmed it OK and was tested multiple times in production and also by Nick himself in his lab using my Keystone adapter and RS232 cable I had shipped to them. It was shipped yesterday EXPRESS from Canada to California and will receive it today. In fact I'm waiting on the UPS guy to drop it off










Have to say that throughout this ordeal, I've found their service exemplary and they have my vote for best customer support(right up there with Oppo







)


----------



## dlynch34

Maybe im being picky but I just watched the new star trek on blu ray on my d2v and ps3 and noticed that the dolby true hd didnt come on but rather dolby digital. I had the ps3 set up as bitstream. Either even the sound was incredible just was curious did I set something up wrong in the d2v?


----------



## Warpdrv

I just watched that last night on my oppo bluray and DolbyHD was on... and the default setting for the movie.. showed up in the D2v just fine for me...


----------



## jayray




dlynch34 said:


> Maybe im being picky but I just watched the new star trek on blu ray on my d2v and ps3 and noticed that the dolby true hd didnt come on but rather dolby digital. I had the ps3 set up as bitstream. Either even the sound was incredible just was curious did I set something up wrong in the d2v?[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> If you are using the older PS3, then set it up to output PCM, not bitstream since it can't bitstream lossless formats ie. TrueHD and DTS-MA.
> 
> John


----------



## dlynch34




jayray said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17557672
> 
> 
> Maybe im being picky but I just watched the new star trek on blu ray on my d2v and ps3 and noticed that the dolby true hd didnt come on but rather dolby digital. I had the ps3 set up as bitstream. Either even the sound was incredible just was curious did I set something up wrong in the d2v?[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> If you are using the older PS3, then set it up to output PCM, not bitstream since it can't bitstream lossless formats ie. TrueHD and DTS-MA.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I am not sure how old the ps3 is no more then a year old I dont believe.
Click to expand...


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17556520
> 
> 
> I've got an email in to Nick asking whether the problem with Anthem Logic - Cinema acting as if Stereo All was in effect might be a new symptom of the Mode Presets known bug in V2.08.
> 
> 
> It would be helpful if someone who can reproduce this Anthem Logic - Cinema problem would try the workaround of using Mode and the arrow keys to switch to a different audio surround mode and back to Anthem Logic - Cinema to see if it cures the problem (at least until you change sources again).
> 
> 
> The Mode Presets bug was scheduled to be fixed in a "test" release this week, but I presume that has been delayed while they resolve the V2.08 installer issue.
> 
> --Bob



I re-did ARC and the problem did not go away, I also have changed the mode with the arrow keys many times with no difference. My brother who also is the proud owner of a D2v will be here soon to prove to me that I am not losing my mind. Thanks again.


----------



## studlygoorite




jayray said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17557672
> 
> 
> Maybe im being picky but I just watched the new star trek on blu ray on my d2v and ps3 and noticed that the dolby true hd didnt come on but rather dolby digital. I had the ps3 set up as bitstream. Either even the sound was incredible just was curious did I set something up wrong in the d2v?[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> If you are using the older PS3, then set it up to output PCM, not bitstream since it can't bitstream lossless formats ie. TrueHD and DTS-MA.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if you set it to PCM the TrueHD light will not come on as it sees the audio already unpacked. You can check the info. on the PS3 while running the movie and see how much bandwidth is being used to set your mind at ease 4Mbps approx. for lossless and 384kbps for lossy.
Click to expand...


----------



## jayray




dlynch34 said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17557809
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I am not sure how old the ps3 is no more then a year old I dont believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don,
> 
> If it isn't the new slim version, you have the one that can't do bitstreaming of lossless sound formats. The ps3 will bitstream the core codec ie. DD for TrueHD and DTS lossy for DTS-MA. Switch to PCM out in the ps3 audio setup and you will hear even better sound from the Star Trek disc. The D2v will show PCM on the front display and as you know it will contain the same info as the original TrueHD or DTS-MA. Sounds the same.
> 
> John
Click to expand...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17558138
> 
> 
> I re-did ARC and the problem did not go away, I also have changed the mode with the arrow keys many times with no difference. My brother who also is the proud owner of a D2v will be here soon to prove to me that I am not losing my mind. Thanks again.



Just to be clear here, this is with 2.0 channel input? And on HDMI or also on Optical/coax?

--Bob


----------



## perioms

Does it make sense to combine Arc with the equilizer of a velodyne sub?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17559444
> 
> 
> Does it make sense to combine Arc with the equilizer of a velodyne sub?



Set the EQ to your sub to defeat. ARC will handle it all.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17559126
> 
> 
> Just to be clear here, this is with 2.0 channel input? And on HDMI or also on Optical/coax?
> 
> --Bob




Yes 2.0 input and both HDMI and Optical.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17556520
> 
> 
> I've got an email in to Nick asking whether the problem with Anthem Logic - Cinema acting as if Stereo All was in effect might be a new symptom of the Mode Presets known bug in V2.08.
> 
> 
> It would be helpful if someone who can reproduce this Anthem Logic - Cinema problem would try the workaround of using Mode and the arrow keys to switch to a different audio surround mode and back to Anthem Logic - Cinema to see if it cures the problem (at least until you change sources again).
> 
> 
> The Mode Presets bug was scheduled to be fixed in a "test" release this week, but I presume that has been delayed while they resolve the V2.08 installer issue.
> 
> --Bob




Bob, I find it hard to believe that you have asked twice now for help from others in this forum and had only one response. You would think that a few more of the countless others you have helped would take the time to switch to a 2.0 ch input and go to the AL Cinema mode and then back to say the PLIIx Movie to see if the AL Cinema sounds like 7ch stereo. It takes me a total of 10 seconds, maybe no one uses a Satellite dish with their D2v but someone at least has to listen to 2.0 ch music with V2.08. Jayray, Warpdrv, Bluemark81 anyone?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17559444
> 
> 
> Does it make sense to combine Arc with the equilizer of a velodyne sub?



Bypass the EQ in the sub to start and see if ARC can handle the entire job. (In the DD series subs, that means selecting Preset 6.) Usually the answer will be yes, and one less pass of processing is always good.


If for some reason ARC can't handle the entire job then you can redo things by first setting up the sub EQ and then doing an ARC Measurement that includes that sub EQ.


-------------------------------------


While you are at it, bypass the internal crossover in the sub and disable its subsonic filter.


For example, in the DD series Velodyne subs select the crossover level in the upper left of the setup table and press Reset on the remote. All the crossover entries will change to NA.


--------------------------------------


When setting the volume level in a DD series sub prior to ARC Measurement, be sure to do it on its setup page. If you do it using the volume control on its main screen that will only survive until the next power failure -- after which the sub will come up in whatever default power-on volume you set on its setup page.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17560327
> 
> 
> Bob, I find it hard to believe that you have asked twice now for help from others in this forum and had only one response. You would think that a few more of the countless others you have helped would take the time to switch to a 2.0 ch input and go to the AL Cinema mode and then back to say the PLIIx Movie to see if the AL Cinema sounds like 7ch stereo. It takes me a total of 10 seconds, maybe no one uses a Satellite dish with their D2v but someone at least has to listen to 2.0 ch music with V2.08. Jayray, Warpdrv, Bluemark81 anyone?



I would be delighted to try this when I get home tomorrow.

Please specify what 7 channel stereo would sound like so I know what to listen for. What is the issue with the satellite box? I have a SA 8300 PVR.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17561113
> 
> 
> I would be delighted to try this when I get home tomorrow.
> 
> Please specify what 7 channel stereo would sound like so I know what to listen for. What is the issue with the satellite box? I have a SA 8300 PVR.
> 
> John



The issue is the reports that something is broken in Anthem Logic - Cinema in V2.08 which makes it sound like Stereo All mode (e.g., dialog coming from all 4 surround speakers). It's not clear just what you need to do to generate this failure.


I'm also trying to figure out if this is really something broken in AL-Cinema or just a new symptom of the known bug where sometimes the Mode Preset doesn't get applied properly for 2.0 input. If so, AL-Cinema should sound correct again if you use the Mode button and the arrow keys to select any other audio surround mode and then back to AL-Cinema.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17561113
> 
> 
> I would be delighted to try this when I get home tomorrow.
> 
> Please specify what 7 channel stereo would sound like so I know what to listen for. What is the issue with the satellite box? I have a SA 8300 PVR.
> 
> John



I am planning on it, but have not had a chance to try it yet. Will let you know.


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17489964
> 
> 
> Watched Star Trek 2009 today and got 3 audio dropouts, none of which were repeatable.



I watched it tonight and noticed 2 sub-second dropouts with my BD-83 & D2v. Neither of which were repeatable. I'll let Oppo & Anthem know.


----------



## manutdsoc20




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17561197
> 
> 
> The issue is the reports that something is broken in Anthem Logic - Cinema in V2.08 which makes it sound like Stereo All mode (e.g., dialog coming from all 4 surround speakers). It's not clear just what you need to do to generate this failure.
> 
> 
> I'm also trying to figure out if this is really something broken in AL-Cinema or just a new symptom of the known bug where sometimes the Mode Preset doesn't get applied properly for 2.0 input. If so, AL-Cinema should sound correct again if you use the Mode button and the arrow keys to select any other audio surround mode and then back to AL-Cinema.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I tried my Direct TV Sat receiver through digital coax & my HTPC with HDMI for 2 channel inputs. I switched from AL Cinema and back and it sounds just like all channel stereo just quieter through my rears and surrounds.


Cheers manutdsoc20


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks for checking on the AL-Cinema issue guys. I've not heard back from Nick on this one yet and don't expect to until the V2.08 install issue is under control.


-----------------------


Right now it appears the Star Trek problem is an Oppo issue, but stay tuned on that.


It appears that using HDMI LPCM from the Oppo will give you clean audio for this disc.

--Bob


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17556520
> 
> 
> I've got an email in to Nick asking whether the problem with Anthem Logic - Cinema acting as if Stereo All was in effect might be a new symptom of the Mode Presets known bug in V2.08.
> 
> 
> It would be helpful if someone who can reproduce this Anthem Logic - Cinema problem would try the workaround of using Mode and the arrow keys to switch to a different audio surround mode and back to Anthem Logic - Cinema to see if it cures the problem (at least until you change sources again).
> 
> 
> The Mode Presets bug was scheduled to be fixed in a "test" release this week, but I presume that has been delayed while they resolve the V2.08 installer issue.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


I tried the workwround and still AL Cinema sounds like 7 channel stereo. (Curiously, I have a friend who would be thrilled by this!) By 7 channel stereo, I mean to indicate that it sounds as if the front 2 channels' signal is sent to my sides and rear surrounds as well. (Full range) Earlier, this mode had sounded quite good with only certain sounds eminating from the sides and rears. (People's voices are the best example - now coming out sides and rears.)


Thanks for looking into it.

Mike


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17562200
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking on the AL-Cinema issue guys. I've not heard back from Nick on this one yet and don't expect to until the V2.08 install issue is under control.
> 
> 
> -----------------------
> 
> 
> Right now it appears the Star Trek problem is an Oppo issue, but stay tuned on that.
> 
> 
> It appears that using HDMI LPCM from the Oppo will give you clean audio for this disc.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Guys,


I watched Star Trek last night and did not have any audio dropouts. My PS3 was the BR player connected via component and optical digital.


However, I did notice a few (approx.) 0.75 second dropouts on video. (During which the screen went black) This could be anything, not necessarily the D2v. I could not reproduce but will watch for this.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/17561669
> 
> 
> I watched it tonight and noticed 2 sub-second dropouts with my BD-83 & D2v. Neither of which were repeatable. I'll let Oppo & Anthem know.



I let oppo know and they suggested I send my disc to Anthem to test since they didn't have a D2v to test with. Nick said they would be purchasing the disc for the software guys in Ottawa.

John


----------



## Janski

Hello All,


Some bad news about my D2. I've been running with 3 devices all connected to my D2v via component video and digital optical audio.


Earlier, I had purchased what I believed to be a good 30' HDMI cable to connect my Epson 6500UB PJ, however after only a few minutes, the picture went wild with most of the screen being red and static through much of it. You can still see what is on, but it looked terrible.


Yesterday, I bought a 10m Monster HDMI Cable so I could run HDMI between my D2v and PJ, but the new cable proved the original cable is not the issue. I tried different resolutions (1080p60, 1080i60...), inspected all pins and nothing changed. I tried both HDMI cables from sources to my PJ directly from 2 of my devices and the picture was HDMI perfect. Verified both of my PJ's HDMI inputs. I then reconnected through my D2v.


Same issue. One key is that when I bring up the D2v scaler menu, display the Green Colour Bars, they actually appear from Red to Yellow across the screen. Some colours appear normally. Black and White appear normal. My projector's display and tests run fine, all of which I believe indicate there is an issue with my D2v's HDMI output. Both sources are component into the D2v and are connected properly.


I've attached two photos illustrating the issue with my D2v's HDMI out. One showing a beach scene as it ought not be (1 of the 7 signs?!) and another of what should be a Green test pattern from the D2v scaler menu. (Varies from red to yellow despit ethe photo appearance) Tried various setting on my PJ and D2v to no good result. Works fine via component.


If anyone has insight to offer - I appreciate it. I suspect a hardware issue and hope to speak with Anthem support today. Seems mostly blue shows as red, but that is not the extent of the issue.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/17564487
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> 
> Some bad news about my D2. I've been running with 3 devices all connected to my D2v via component video and digital optical audio.
> 
> 
> Earlier, I had purchased what I believed to be a good 30' HDMI cable to connect my Epson 6500UB PJ, however after only a few minutes, the picture went wild with most of the screen being red and static through much of it. You can still see what is on, but it looked terrible.
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I bought a 10m Monster HDMI Cable so I could run HDMI between my D2v and PJ, but the new cable proved the original cable is not the issue. I tried different resolutions (1080p60, 1080i60...), inspected all pins and nothing changed. I tried both HDMI cables from sources to my PJ directly from 2 of my devices and the picture was HDMI perfect. Verified both of my PJ's HDMI inputs. I then reconnected through my D2v.
> 
> 
> Same issue. One key is that when I bring up the D2v scaler menu, display the Green Colour Bars, they actually appear from Red to Yellow across the screen. Some colours appear normally. Black and White appear normal. My projector's display and tests run fine, all of which I believe indicate there is an issue with my D2v's HDMI output. Both sources are component into the D2v and are connected properly.
> 
> 
> I've attached two photos illustrating the issue with my D2v's HDMI out. One showing a beach scene as it ought not be (1 of the 7 signs?!) and another of what should be a Green test pattern from the D2v scaler menu. Tried various setting on my PJ and D2v to no good result. Works fine via component.
> 
> 
> If anyone has insight to offer - I appreciate it. I suspect a hardware issue and hope to speak with Anthem support today. Seems mostly blue shows a red, but that is not the extent of the issue.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



That is probably a hardware failure on your Video board, but it may still be something you can fix at home.


One thing to try is to switch to using the HDMI 2 output -- note that you won't get on-screen displays that way (including the test patterns) -- but it may give you a workaround while you sort this out with Anthem.


Another thing to try is to see if any of the Video Output > Data settings works. For example, RGB output might work. Again, this could be a workaround while waiting. [I'm assuming you had good HDMI video to your display before this. If you've NEVER had good HDMI video to your display then adjusting your Video Output settings may be what's needed.]


Another thing to try is to Reset Factory Defaults and then manually re-enter you Video Output settings -- just enough to get the video going. If that works then try re-entering the rest of your settings. If THAT works then that suggest that somehow your settings data on the video board got corrupted. The fix for this is to continue with the manual re-entry of all your settings rather than using Saved settings.


Anthem Tech Support may also suggest that you re-install the firmware on top of itself. This can fix certain rare problems.


And Anthem Tech Support may also suggest you open the lid and re-seat the video output daughter board that attaches to the top of the video board. There have been a few cases where video failure was caused by that board having shifted during shipping. Do not open the chassis until they ask you to do so, and with the chassis open, take precautions to make sure you don't do any static electric discharge to any of the electronics.

--Bob


----------



## programmergeek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vengazor* /forum/post/17555560
> 
> 
> Does this mean some video boards are defective or just that the process of upgrading firmware made an error that only Anthem can fix by returning the units?



I had the same issue video board update failed. I never used the video section so I am not sure if it was bad or not any how processor went back to anthum they replaced the video board. last update worked.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Truly the weird thing about this is that Anthem does a firmware install in the factory before shipping new units. Using the serial port, just like a user would. So the video boards were known to be OK for firmware installation before the unit shipped.


If the problem was a bad batch of boards, I would have expected they'd have seen the failure rate spike on the factory floor and caught it that way.


That's what leads me to believe the root cause is something that changed in the V2.08 installer itself, making it less robust in the face of normal production variance in the hardware.


---------------------


I'm expecting we'll see an updated installer "real soon now".


Unfortunately, boards that have already failed once will still need special, corrective reprogramming before they can be made to work again.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/17564126
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> I watched Star Trek last night and did not have any audio dropouts. My PS3 was the BR player connected via component and optical digital.
> 
> 
> However, I did notice a few (approx.) 0.75 second dropouts on video. (During which the screen went black) This could be anything, not necessarily the D2v. I could not reproduce but will watch for this.



You aren't getting lossless sound through optical and

lossless seems to be what causes these dropouts.

John


----------



## perioms




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17560719
> 
> 
> Bypass the EQ in the sub to start and see if ARC can handle the entire job. (In the DD series subs, that means selecting Preset 6.) Usually the answer will be yes, and one less pass of processing is always good.
> 
> 
> If for some reason ARC can't handle the entire job then you can redo things by first setting up the sub EQ and then doing an ARC Measurement that includes that sub EQ.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> While you are at it, bypass the internal crossover in the sub and disable its subsonic filter.
> 
> 
> For example, in the DD series Velodyne subs select the crossover level in the upper left of the setup table and press Reset on the remote. All the crossover entries will change to NA.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> When setting the volume level in a DD series sub prior to ARC Measurement, be sure to do it on its setup page. If you do it using the volume control on its main screen that will only survive until the next power failure -- after which the sub will come up in whatever default power-on volume you set on its setup page.
> 
> --Bob



How can I disable the subsonic frequency and slope? The adjustable range is from 15 to 35Hz. What about the other settings like contour freq, contour level and theater/Music?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17564991
> 
> 
> You aren't getting lossless sound through optical and
> 
> lossless seems to be what causes these dropouts.
> 
> John



I know WHY in the world would *Janski* buy a D2v and Hook his

components up via Component and Optical?


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17565559
> 
> 
> I know WHY in the world would *Janski* buy a D2v and Hook his components up via Component and Optical?



Fortunately, the rationale does not require a Doctorate to convey;


- I rarely watch movies. My use is mostly Music and Video from 1080i satellite

- I had all the Component/Optical Cables already

- I just bought it about a month ago


Additionally, per earlier posts, my D2v's HDMI Output is not functioning. I'm in the support queue for that.


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/17561669
> 
> 
> I watched it tonight and noticed 2 sub-second dropouts with my BD-83 & D2v. Neither of which were repeatable. I'll let Oppo & Anthem know.



I have a BD-83 (current realase firmware) and D2v (2.08) and i had a couple of short audio drop-outs as well, not repeatable either.


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/17564487
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> 
> Some bad news about my D2. I've been running with 3 devices all connected to my D2v via component video and digital optical audio.
> 
> 
> Earlier, I had purchased what I believed to be a good 30' HDMI cable to connect my Epson 6500UB PJ, however after only a few minutes, the picture went wild with most of the screen being red and static through much of it. You can still see what is on, but it looked terrible.
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I bought a 10m Monster HDMI Cable so I could run HDMI between my D2v and PJ, but the new cable proved the original cable is not the issue. I tried different resolutions (1080p60, 1080i60...), inspected all pins and nothing changed. I tried both HDMI cables from sources to my PJ directly from 2 of my devices and the picture was HDMI perfect. Verified both of my PJ's HDMI inputs. I then reconnected through my D2v.
> 
> 
> Same issue. One key is that when I bring up the D2v scaler menu, display the Green Colour Bars, they actually appear from Red to Yellow across the screen. Some colours appear normally. Black and White appear normal. My projector's display and tests run fine, all of which I believe indicate there is an issue with my D2v's HDMI output. Both sources are component into the D2v and are connected properly.
> 
> 
> I've attached two photos illustrating the issue with my D2v's HDMI out. One showing a beach scene as it ought not be (1 of the 7 signs?!) and another of what should be a Green test pattern from the D2v scaler menu. (Varies from red to yellow despit ethe photo appearance) Tried various setting on my PJ and D2v to no good result. Works fine via component.
> 
> 
> If anyone has insight to offer - I appreciate it. I suspect a hardware issue and hope to speak with Anthem support today. Seems mostly blue shows as red, but that is not the extent of the issue.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



I would also suggest taking an HDMI cable from a device to the D2V and seeing if you get a good picture from the D2V via HDMI. Is it possible that you have your RGB wires crossed. You can get some ugly things when this happens. If you start out with HDMI and end with HDMI you can not get your wires crossed....



Ed


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*ARC V2.4 Becomes "Official"!*


Anthem has placed ARC V2.4 on its public download pages this afternoon. This is now the new, "official" version of ARC for all ARC-capable Anthem processors.


The changes from the prior "official" version, ARC V2.3, read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.4:
> 
> 
> 1. Added Windows 7 compatibility.



Evidently there is no need to rush to this version unless you wish to do your ARC stuff on a Windows 7 PC. However, feel free to download and install this version regardless of your PC. You can use it to view, change, or re-Upload older ARC results files, as well as for re-Measuring of course.


------------------------------------

*IMPORTANT NOTE:* If this is the first time you are installing ARC on your computer, be aware that the older version of the ARC installer on your original ARC install CD may not transfer your licensing/calibration files during the install due to some changes Microsoft made in September 2009. Original ARC install CDs containing ARC V2.3 or later will not have this problem.


If you have an older version of ARC on your original install CD, or just aren't sure what version is on your original install CD, the workaround is simple:


1) Download ARC V2.4 from the Anthem site, and unzip that download. Navigate into the resulting folder to find the location of the Setup.exe program (the installer) inside that folder.


2) Insert your original ARC install CD. If the installer starts up automatically just exit out of it. On the install CD, navigate to the same location -- i.e., where Setup.exe is found on the install CD.


3) In that location on the install CD, find your pair of licensing/calibration files. They are easy to spot as their names are made up of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem processor, and the serial number of your ARC mic. Drag BOTH of those files from the install CD into the folder you downloaded -- into the same place as the Setup.exe program in that folder.


4) Close the windows into your original ARC install CD and eject it.


5) In the folder you downloaded, double-click on Setup to start the ARC V2.4 installer. The installer will move your pair of licensing/calibration files to the correct installed location.


You only have to do this the first time you install on a new PC. The pair of files will stick around and be used by any further ARC updates you download and install.


------------------------------------


NOTE 1: The Utility programs in the Utilities folder are also known to be compatible with Windows 7.


NOTE 2: If you've already installed the "test" ARC V2.4 version from Anthem's password protected page, there is no need to do it again with this "official" version. All the files in the "official" download kit are identical to the "test" version files.

--Bob


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/17566018
> 
> 
> I would also suggest taking an HDMI cable from a device to the D2V and seeing if you get a good picture from the D2V via HDMI. Is it possible that you have your RGB wires crossed. You can get some ugly things when this happens. If you start out with HDMI and end with HDMI you can not get your wires crossed....
> 
> 
> 
> Ed



Thanks Ed and Bob for the constructive suggestions. I'll be trying the remainder of Bob's a little later to the T. (I had tried different modes such as Studio RGB and extended RGB matching with the PJ to no avail.) I think you are right about it being hardware but do continue to seek a workaround.


About this one, I've ensured in triplicate I do not have the component cable conductors crossed. (plus with a background in electronics, I do recognize what the result would look like - this ain't quite it.) I would see the same via component to the PJ. I will try HDMI all the way and report back. I do thank you for thinking about my situation and how you could help. All appreciated.


Take Care,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just got a brief update from Nick:


1) His outbound email was broken over the last day. If you were expecting an email from him, he'll probably have to resend it.


2) It appears that if you have ever successfully installed firmware on your D2v or AVM 50v, particularly if you previously installed V2.07 or one of the later "test" versions, the odds are excellent you will have no problem with the current V2.08 installer. If you have never done a firmware upgrade on your D2v or AVM 50v there doesn't seem to be any way to tell ahead of time whether you are likely to have a problem with the current V2.08 installer. The problem doesn't appear to be limited to some specific batch of boards for example. In such case, it would probably be best to wait a little longer for the updated installer.


NOTE: Despite the angst here, Nick tells me the reality is that most people are having success with the current V2.08 installer. I.e., the odds of it working aren't that bad even if you've never done a firmware install before.


3) No ETA yet on the updated installer.


4) They are still working on a video board fix that can be applied in the field. The required cable is special -- i.e., it would have to come from Anthem. For now, units affected can only be fixed at Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

On the Anthem Logic - Cinema problem we've been discussing, Nick tells me the correct behavior for Anthem Logic - Cinema is that the surrounds will get sent content very much like what happens with Stereo All -- only at a reduced volume.


Since this is pretty much what people have been describing, we need to figure out how to get a better handle on precisely how the behavior changed between V2.07 and V2.08 that's caused people to report a problem here.


Anyone got any suggestions as to how to describe the difference more precisely?


[NOTE: Anthem Logic - Music sends less content to the surrounds, but it also turns off the Center speaker, so it may or may not be a good alternative. It is certainly a good alternative for listening to stereo music sources of course.]


Also, is there anyone with a 5.1 speaker system who thinks AL-Cinema got broken between V2.07 and V2.08? I use AL-Cinema all the time for TV viewing (with 2.0 channel programs of course) and have not noticed a problem in my V2.08 setup.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/17564487
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone has insight to offer - I appreciate it. I suspect a hardware issue and hope to speak with Anthem support today. Seems mostly blue shows as red, but that is not the extent of the issue.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



Have you tried using the 10M HDMI cable from the PS3

direct to the PJ? Unless this is a long working PJ, it would

help point the finger by removing the D2v from the equation.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17565444
> 
> 
> How can I disable the subsonic frequency and slope? The adjustable range is from 15 to 35Hz. What about the other settings like contour freq, contour level and theater/Music?



In the Velodyne DD series subs, if you turn Contour Level to 0 (should be the default for Preset 6) then there is no contour adjustment and the frequency doesn't matter.


I prefer to turn the servo adjustment all the way up (to Music). That gives the most accurate response from the sub at the expense of reducing the output a bit. In subwoofer jargon, "music" means accurate, and "not music" means louder booms.


Frankly I forget how to disable the subsonic filter. I'll have to send you to the manual for that. At a start, put it at the lowest frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. In fact a 15Hz filter setting is probably fine anyway.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick tells me they now believe the firmware installers (both old and new) are Windows 7 compatible. They've found no problems and had to make no changes. This is the last piece of Windows 7 compatibility news we were awaiting.


Of course as with all versions of Windows, getting a working serial connection may be more of a challenge. If you don't have a built-in serial connection, my recommendation will continue to be to use the Keyspan model USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter, which has been such a solid performer for both XP and Vista.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I was playing Hell Boy 2 which says it is 7.1 channel. The oppo is showing 5.1 as is the display on the D2v. Has anyone experienced this with this movie and the oppo? I have checked all settings in the oppo and D2v and all is good. Will try another 7.1 film.

John


----------



## jayray

Just tried Pans Labyrinth which is 7.1 and the oppo says outputting 7.1 but my D2v shows 5.1. Using 2.08. Something is fishy.

John


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17566601
> 
> 
> Have you tried using the 10M HDMI cable from the PS3
> 
> direct to the PJ? Unless this is a long working PJ, it would
> 
> help point the finger by removing the D2v from the equation.



Hi DrHankz,


Yes. I tried all my sources direct to my PJ via HDMI (The two cables I have now) and all sources (Sat, Sat and PS3) worked fine over either HDMI cable to both inputs of my PJ. (Ie: with the D2v out of the equation.)


I just returned with another HDMI cable from a friend to try an all-HDMI setup along with Bob's expert suggestions next. (And 4 new midranges for my two main channel speakers...) It'll be an interesting night.


Thanks for the thought,

Mike


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17566574
> 
> 
> On the Anthem Logic - Cinema problem we've been discussing, Nick tells me the correct behavior for Anthem Logic - Cinema is that the surrounds will get sent content very much like what happens with Stereo All -- only at a reduced volume.
> 
> 
> Since this is pretty much what people have been describing, we need to figure out how to get a better handle on precisely how the behavior changed between V2.07 and V2.08 that's caused people to report a problem here.
> 
> 
> Anyone got any suggestions as to how to describe the difference more precisely?
> 
> 
> [NOTE: Anthem Logic - Music sends less content to the surrounds, but it also turns off the Center speaker, so it may or may not be a good alternative. It is certainly a good alternative for listening to stereo music sources of course.]
> 
> 
> Also, is there anyone with a 5.1 speaker system who thinks AL-Cinema got broken between V2.07 and V2.08? I use AL-Cinema all the time for TV viewing (with 2.0 channel programs of course) and have not noticed a problem in my V2.08 setup.
> 
> --Bob




AL Cinema used to have the perfect blend of audio from the fronts to surrounds, now it's almost like the fronts are the rears. Also, I notice that AL Music may have also changed a tad with more front stage audio being sent to the surrounds from the fronts just not as bad as AL Cinema. Is this clear as mud? Shall I go back to 2.07 and report??


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17566993
> 
> 
> AL Cinema used to have the perfect blend of audio from the fronts to surrounds, now it's almost like the fronts are the rears. Also, I notice that AL Music may have also changed a tad with more front stage audio being sent to the surrounds from the fronts just not as bad as AL Cinema. Is this clear as mud? Shall I go back to 2.07 and report??



Is it happening all the time for you or does it come and go?


At this point I think it would be best if you discuss specific examples directly with Anthem Tech Support. I would focus on the fact that something has changed between V2.07 and V2.08.


One other thing you could try is temporarily tell the Anthem that you only have 5.1 speakers and see if the problem vanishes. That would be consistent with the fact that I'm not hearing a problem in my 5.1 speaker setup.


If there is a distinct difference between 5.1 and 7.1 behavior that too will point in the direction of the bug.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I have just tried the 2 channel input with AL cinema, music and I don't get any sound from my side and back channels. Wonder if this has something to do with some of my 7.1 discs not inputting right into the D2v.


As for my testing of 7.1 from the oppo here are my results.


1. Shoot EM Up DTS-MA 7.1 oppo shows 7.1 and D2v shows 5.1


2. Hell Boy 2 DTS-MA 7.1 oppo shows 5.1 and D2v shows 5.1


3. Pan's Labyrith DTS-MA 7.1 oppo shows 7.1 and D2v shows 5.1


4. All DTS-MA 6.1 discs played fine. One pcm 7.1 also played fine.


Will email Nick and oppo about this. Can't remember this with anyother firmware version.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17567112
> 
> 
> I have just tried the 2 channel input with AL cinema, music and I don't get any sound from my side and back channels. Wonder if this has something to do with some of my 7.1 discs not inputting right into the D2v.
> 
> 
> As for my testing of 7.1 from the oppo here are my results.
> 
> 
> 1. Shoot EM Up DTS-MA 7.1 oppo shows 7.1 and D2v shows 5.1
> 
> 
> 2. Hell Boy 2 DTS-MA 7.1 oppo shows 5.1 and D2v shows 5.1
> 
> 
> 3. Pan's Labyrith DTS-MA 7.1 oppo shows 7.1 and D2v shows 5.1
> 
> 
> 4. All DTS-MA 6.1 discs played fine. One pcm 7.1 also played fine.
> 
> 
> Will email Nick and oppo about this. Can't remember this with anyother firmware version.
> 
> John



Remember you can use HDMI LPCM from the Oppo to get other LPMC 7.1 input tests.


Also try "Nightmare Before Christmas". Thats a TrueHD 7.1 track.


I suspect the old bug has returned where 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks using the oddball "alternate speaker presentation" are being seen as only 5.1 again. I previously reported this as a V2.08 bug to Nick on "Hairspray" Blu-Ray.


The 7.1 DTS-HD MA track from the New Line logo prior to the Top Menu *DOES* get seen by the D2v as 7.1 -- but that does not use the "alternate speaker presentation" and the feature track does.


I don't know about those other movies. The original Hellboy was another one that used the "alternate speaker presentation".


---------------------------------------------


None of this explains why you are not getting any output with AL-Cinema.


But try again with AL-Cinema and use Mode and Up/Down arrow to switch away from it and back. Then verify with the Select button displays that all 7.1 speakers are shown as active for output. Do you still have nothing in the 4 surrounds?


---------------------------------------------


Of course I only have a 5.1 speaker system so I can't directly duplicate what you are trying.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

I have tried 2.0 audio input with AL Cinema and I get audio from all 7 channels. Each speaker appears to output similar content, but the surrounds might play a little lower volume.


I tried Hell Boy 2 and D2v shows 5.1. The disk is set up for 7.1, but when I press "audio" from the remote, the Oppo's menu does not even show an audio option for 7.1. If I press "display" from the remote, it also shows 5.1. I can't think of any other 7.1 disks to try this with.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17567299
> 
> 
> Remember you can use HDMI LPCM from the Oppo to get other LPMC 7.1 input tests.
> 
> 
> Also try "Nightmare Before Christmas". Thats a TrueHD 7.1 track.
> 
> 
> I suspect the old bug has returned where 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks using the oddball "alternate speaker presentation" are being seen as only 5.1 again. I previously reported this as a V2.08 bug to Nick on "Hairspray" Blu-Ray.
> 
> 
> The 7.1 DTS-HD MA track from the New Line logo prior to the Top Menu *DOES* get seen by the D2v as 7.1 -- but that does not use the "alternate speaker presentation" and the feature track does.
> 
> 
> I don't know about those other movies. The original Hellboy was another one that used the "alternate speaker presentation".
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> None of this explains why you are not getting any output with AL-Cinema.
> 
> 
> But try again with AL-Cinema and use Mode and Up/Down arrow to switch away from it and back. Then verify with the Select button displays that all 7.1 speakers are shown as active for output. Do you still have nothing in the 4 surrounds?
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Of course I only have a 5.1 speaker system so I can't directly duplicate what you are trying.
> 
> --Bob



I tried the LPCM from the oppo with the same results. I don't have the disc mentioned above. I will retry the 2 channel test shortly.

thanks,

John


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I retried the 2 channel test and no matter what I pick as the output mode, I get nothing out of my side and rear channels. Pressing select shows 2 channel in and 2 channel out again, no matter what is selected in mode. Using the arrow keys to switch back and forth has no affect.

John


----------



## bluemark81

I just tried The Golden Compass from New Line Cinema. It is 7.1 MA and shows up as 7.1 on the D2v and also on the Oppo.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17567444
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I retried the 2 channel test and no matter what I pick as the output mode, I get nothing out of my side and rear channels. Pressing select shows 2 channel in and 2 channel out again, no matter what is selected in mode. Using the arrow keys to switch back and forth has no affect.
> 
> John



Well that's odd. If you were mistakenly using an ANALOG-Direct input it shouldn't let you select a surround mode.


The same would be true if you were mistakenly using a Music speaker configuration with no surrounds.


Are you using a trigger for the amp for those surrounds? Is it activating the amp?

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17567496
> 
> 
> I just tried The Golden Compass from New Line Cinema. It is 7.1 MA and shows up as 7.1 on the D2v and also on the Oppo.



that one worked fine for me as well.

John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17567545
> 
> 
> that one worked fine for me as well.
> 
> John



Why would one and not the other? You say the Oppo displayed 7.1 with Hell Boy 2? Mine would only show 5.1


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17567501
> 
> 
> Well that's odd. If you were mistakenly using an ANALOG-Direct input it shouldn't let you select a surround mode.
> 
> 
> The same would be true if you were mistakenly using a Music speaker configuration with no surrounds.
> 
> 
> Are you using a trigger for the amp for those surrounds? Is it activating the amp?
> 
> --Bob



My setup has not changed as far as speaker config etc. I checked all that before. I do not use triggers for my amps either. I will call Nick tomorrow if not at work.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17567552
> 
> 
> Why would one and not the other? You say the Oppo displayed 7.1 with Hell Boy 2? Mine would only show 5.1



If I said Hell Boy 2 displayed 7.1 I was in error. It displayed 5.1 even though I selected 7.1 in the menu.

John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17567064
> 
> 
> Is it happening all the time for you or does it come and go?
> 
> 
> At this point I think it would be best if you discuss specific examples directly with Anthem Tech Support. I would focus on the fact that something has changed between V2.07 and V2.08.
> 
> 
> One other thing you could try is temporarily tell the Anthem that you only have 5.1 speakers and see if the problem vanishes. That would be consistent with the fact that I'm not hearing a problem in my 5.1 speaker setup.
> 
> 
> If there is a distinct difference between 5.1 and 7.1 behavior that too will point in the direction of the bug.
> 
> --Bob



It does not come and go, it is there all the time. I tried with 5.1 and it worked as it should. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17567808
> 
> 
> It does not come and go, it is there all the time. I tried with 5.1 and it worked as it should. Thanks



Make sure you mention that detail to Anthem. That should make it pretty easy for them to find the bug.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17567599
> 
> 
> If I said Hell Boy 2 displayed 7.1 I was in error. It displayed 5.1 even though I selected 7.1 in the menu.
> 
> John



John:


Did the Oppo display 7.1 or 5.1 when you press "audio" or "display" on the Oppo?


----------



## bluemark81

Anyone know why Anthem chose not to add Satellite radio or Ethernet with the D2v?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17568002
> 
> 
> John:
> 
> 
> Did the Oppo display 7.1 or 5.1 when you press "audio" or "display" on the Oppo?



It displayed 5.1 not 7.1 which I selected in the menu.

John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17568200
> 
> 
> It displayed 5.1 not 7.1 which I selected in the menu.
> 
> John



Wouldn't that suggest it is an issue with the Oppos as opposed to the D2v?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17568236
> 
> 
> Wouldn't that suggest it is an issue with the Oppos as opposed to the D2v?



Yes except that there were discs that the oppo reported as 7.1 and the D2v reported as 5.1.

John


----------



## dweltman

I got copies of the graphs of Jeff's RTA measurements of my room during his calibration visit last week. The first graph is what I had when we started, with the ARC suggested room gain at 3.8 and correction to 12K. Of note is the tipped up top end. The bloated bottom end is probably a result of ARC suggesting an excessive Room Gain, as Bob and I had discussed a couple of pages back.


The second graph is following Jeff's suggestions, which include 0 Room Gain and correcting only to 1K. With these you will note the return of the "BBC dip" that Roger referred to between 2 and 5 K.


Since then, I have modified my approach and am now using 1 dB of room gain and correcting up to 5K. I plan on doing some room treatment. Maybe I will be able to get Jeff back some time in the future to measure the results of these changes!


I don't know if you folks will find this of interest, but you can compare them to my ARC curves which I posted last week. It will give you an opportunity to compare the ARC curves with actual measurements of the room with ARC EQ applied. See what you think.


----------



## bluemark81

Weird thing with my Oppo. It seems it is no longer connected to my network even though the Oppo ethernet light is on and my router light is on. It used to do auto updates and for some reason it is now telling me it is no longer connected when I do a connection test. I've posted on the Oppo forum as well, but has anyone else here encountered this?


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17568464
> 
> 
> Weird thing with my Oppo. It seems it is no longer connected to my network even though the Oppo ethernet light is on and my router light is on. It used to do auto updates and for some reason it is now telling me it is no longer connected when I do a connection test. I've posted on the Oppo forum as well, but has anyone else here encountered this?



Are you sure your wireless network is working correctly? Try rebooting your router.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17568487
> 
> 
> Are you sure your wireless network is working correctly? Try rebooting your router.



I've tried that. Funny thing is, when I turn my router off, all the network settings within the grey field on the Oppo such as IP address, subnet, etc goes to zeros. When I turn the router back on, these values are filled in with values making it appear as though it has detected something, but if I run a connection test, it still says no connection. If I turn the Oppo off and back on, only the IP address is filled in. The rest of the values returned to zeros.


Edit: I've tried upgrading via USB and it tells me that it cannot find a valid firmware upgrade. I've checked the USB and all the necessary files are there and unzipped.


This seems to be deeper than just a network connection issue


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/17566495
> 
> 
> Thanks Ed and Bob for the constructive suggestions. I'll be trying the remainder of Bob's a little later to the T. (I had tried different modes such as Studio RGB and extended RGB matching with the PJ to no avail.) I think you are right about it being hardware but do continue to seek a workaround.
> 
> 
> About this one, I've ensured in triplicate I do not have the component cable conductors crossed. (plus with a background in electronics, I do recognize what the result would look like - this ain't quite it.) I would see the same via component to the PJ. I will try HDMI all the way and report back. I do thank you for thinking about my situation and how you could help. All appreciated.
> 
> 
> Take Care,
> 
> Mike




Not an expert here. Hopefully Bob can chime in, but if you have video processing turned off, you could have the RGB wires crossed going into and coming out of the D2V and to your pj. This would make the picture good until processing is turned on, which could be done via the set-up menu, or can be forced by using a HDMI cable. That is why I recommended connecting a component with a HDMI cable to force processing on a set of connections that can not be hooked up wrong... Lots of luck...


Ed


----------



## jayray

Here is Oppo's response to my 7.1 channel issue with Hell Boy 2.

*"It's something special with the Hellboy II disc, and possibly others.


The player reads and interprets the tracks according to how DTS lays down the procedure. In this case DTS might call for rear channels to be mixed into surrounds to more accurately reproduce a soundtrack. We don't know for certain, but we think this is why the player does this, and shows 5.1.


Now, we have confirmed that when playing it Bitstream to a Yamaha 3900, it shows up as 7.1. So, clearly the player is bitstreaming it correctly. However, we have seen or know that sometimes the D2v will also decode this into 5.1, like the player does. Bob P. on the AVS forum I believe as seen this as well. Anthem should know about this. Sometimes the D2v will show 7.1, sometimes 5.1.


But yes, we've see this. We just aren't sure yet what's going on here.


Best Regards,


Customer Service*


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17569411
> 
> 
> I've tried that. Funny thing is, when I turn my router off, all the network settings within the grey field on the Oppo such as IP address, subnet, etc goes to zeros. When I turn the router back on, these values are filled in with values making it appear as though it has detected something, but if I run a connection test, it still says no connection. If I turn the Oppo off and back on, only the IP address is filled in. The rest of the values returned to zeros.
> 
> 
> Edit: I've tried upgrading via USB and it tells me that it cannot find a valid firmware upgrade. I've checked the USB and all the necessary files are there and unzipped.
> 
> 
> This seems to be deeper than just a network connection issue



If you've got the Oppo network stuff set to Auto(DHCP) the other lines will be grayed out (i.e., you can't change them), but they should show the values set up by the DHCP protocol via your router and your ISP.


There are several reasons why you can have no network connectivity even though the Oppo is seeing your router. Here are some:


1) Your router is not set to support DHCP requests. This means the Oppo can find your router, but the Oppo's request for an IP address and other important info doesn't get passed through the router for handling by your ISP or doesn't get handled by your router. Symptoms would be a "self assigned" IP address in the Oppo info and no DNS addresses.


2) Your router has MAC address security enabled and the Oppo has not been entered into its table as a device allowed to work on your network. The MAC address of the Oppo is the last item listed in its Setup > Network stuff. The MAC address is the hardware networking address of the Oppo.


3) Your router has a limit on how many devices can connect through it and the Oppo is one device too many.


Typically you will set up a home network with NAT (Network Address Translation) turned on in your router. This means the computers inside your network see IP addresses in a range you've picked. Only the router sees your public IP address that it gets from your ISP. The router does the translation between public and private IP addresses for your computers. One thing to check is that you've set aside enough numbers in your internal addressing to accommodate the Oppo as an additional device.


Set this way, when things are working the Oppo will show an IP address in your local (internal) address range. It will show the internal IP address of your router as its "gateway" address, and it will either show the internal IP address of your router as its DNS entry (if the router is handling DNS stuff), or it will show one or two public IP addresses for DNS if the router let it get those from your ISP. Again all that stuff will be grayed out.


The thing to do is to look at the network info on any computer in your network that is working and compare to what the Oppo is showing to see what's up.


You can also check in your router to see if it is seeing the MAC address of your Oppo as one of the devices trying to talk to it.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17567962
> 
> 
> Make sure you mention that detail to Anthem. That should make it pretty easy for them to find the bug.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17569809
> 
> 
> Here is Oppo's response to my 7.1 channel issue with Hell Boy 2.
> 
> *"It's something special with the Hellboy II disc, and possibly others.
> 
> 
> The player reads and interprets the tracks according to how DTS lays down the procedure. In this case DTS might call for rear channels to be mixed into surrounds to more accurately reproduce a soundtrack. We don't know for certain, but we think this is why the player does this, and shows 5.1.
> 
> 
> Now, we have confirmed that when playing it Bitstream to a Yamaha 3900, it shows up as 7.1. So, clearly the player is bitstreaming it correctly. However, we have seen or know that sometimes the D2v will also decode this into 5.1, like the player does. Bob P. on the AVS forum I believe as seen this as well. Anthem should know about this. Sometimes the D2v will show 7.1, sometimes 5.1.
> 
> 
> But yes, we've see this. We just aren't sure yet what's going on here.
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> 
> Customer Service*



DTS continues to be the bane of Blu-Ray. Their specs are ridiculously over-complex and it has caused no end of trouble for everyone doing decoding.


The only thing we can do is tally the 7.1 DTS-HD MA discs that the Oppo shows as only 5.1 and let Oppo know, and for the cases where the Oppo sees them as 7.1 but the D2v only decodes 5.1 we need to let Anthem know.


I'm afraid some of this stuff is going to keep cropping up because, believe it or not, DTS keeps fiddling around and changing their minds on how this stuff is SUPPOSED to work.


The root cause of the problem is two-fold:


1) DTS wants the decoder to do things differently if you specify you only have 5.1 speakers. This has to be worked around in a sophisticated processor like the D2v because DTS' idea of how to do this is stupid.


2) DTS allows mixers to use an "alternate speaker presentation" where the so-called rear speakers are actually swung way around to the sides as if you have two pairs of side speakers and no rear speakers. The idea is that this involves less finagling of the original audio master if all you have to work with is a 5.1 master. I.e., you can market your disc as having a 7.1 track when it is really nothing more than a modestly gussied up 5.1 track.


Technically it is probably more correct for the fake rears in the "alternate speaker presentation" to be mixed into the side speakers, but no customers like that, and all the manufacturers have had to work around this DTS nonsense by making it come out as 7.1.


Apparently DTS has twiddled its thumbs some more and come up with more complexity here, and I gather both Oppo and Anthem are scrambling to figure out what the H they've done now.


-----------------------------------------------


Make a list of the 7.1 tracks the Oppo decodes as 5.1 and send it to Oppo.


Make a list of the 7.1 tracks the Oppo sees as 7.1 but the D2v decodes as 5.1 and send that to Anthem.


Deep sigh....

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/17569645
> 
> 
> Not an expert here. Hopefully Bob can chime in, but if you have video processing turned off, you could have the RGB wires crossed going into and coming out of the D2V and to your pj. This would make the picture good until processing is turned on, which could be done via the set-up menu, or can be forced by using a HDMI cable. That is why I recommended connecting a component with a HDMI cable to force processing on a set of connections that can not be hooked up wrong... Lots of luck...
> 
> 
> Ed



The pictures he showed do not look to me like he has his Component cables swapped. The color errors don't jibe with that sort of mistake.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17568193
> 
> 
> Anyone know why Anthem chose not to add Satellite radio or Ethernet with the D2v?



Adding either of those would have delayed its release.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

This happend to me when I used a video splitter on my DTV HDMI. One going directly to the TV (720P) and one gong to the D2v (1080P 24) to a projector


The problem was the EDID of the 1080 24P causing a misfire with the 720P and hence causing the color problem exactly like yours. When I unpluged the 720P HDMI all was good again.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17570668
> 
> 
> The pictures he showed do not look to me like he has his Component cables swapped. The color errors don't jibe with that sort of mistake.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17570650
> 
> 
> DTS continues to be the bane of Blu-Ray. Their specs are ridiculously over-complex and it has caused no end of trouble for everyone doing decoding.
> 
> 
> The only thing we can do is tally the 7.1 DTS-HD MA discs that the Oppo shows as only 5.1 and let Oppo know, and for the cases where the Oppo sees them as 7.1 but the D2v only decodes 5.1 we need to let Anthem know.
> 
> 
> I'm afraid some of this stuff is going to keep cropping up because, believe it or not, DTS keeps fiddling around and changing their minds on how this stuff is SUPPOSED to work.
> 
> 
> The root cause of the problem is two-fold:
> 
> 
> 1) DTS wants the decoder to do things differently if you specify you only have 5.1 speakers. This has to be worked around in a sophisticated processor like the D2v because DTS' idea of how to do this is stupid.
> 
> 
> 2) DTS allows mixers to use an "alternate speaker presentation" where the so-called rear speakers are actually swung way around to the sides as if you have two pairs of side speakers and no rear speakers. The idea is that this involves less finagling of the original audio master if all you have to work with is a 5.1 master. I.e., you can market your disc as having a 7.1 track when it is really nothing more than a modestly gussied up 5.1 track.
> 
> 
> Technically it is probably more correct for the fake rears in the "alternate speaker presentation" to be mixed into the side speakers, but no customers like that, and all the manufacturers have had to work around this DTS nonsense by making it come out as 7.1.
> 
> 
> Apparently DTS has twiddled its thumbs some more and come up with more complexity here, and I gather both Oppo and Anthem are scrambling to figure out what the H they've done now.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Make a list of the 7.1 tracks the Oppo decodes as 5.1 and send it to Oppo.
> 
> 
> Make a list of the 7.1 tracks the Oppo sees as 7.1 but the D2v decodes as 5.1 and send that to Anthem.
> 
> 
> Deep sigh....
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I sent the list, on the previous thread page, to both oppo and Anthem yesterday. The response from oppo was in response to my email.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/17568418
> 
> 
> .... Since then, I have modified my approach and am now using 1 dB of room gain and correcting up to 5K. I plan on doing some room treatment. Maybe I will be able to get Jeff back some time in the future to measure the results of these changes! ....



I think the room treatments are going to make a HUGE difference in your case. You'll not only knock down that horrid 17dB swing in Center, but you'll probably knock down the 50Hz peaks in the other speakers as well.


When ARC has a chance to Measure things without those wild room swings, I think you'll get a much more usable answer as regards Room Gain.


I would suggest you revisit ARC correction at the high frequencies after that gets sorted out.


You can tune up your room treatment over time of course, but my guess is you'll see a dramatic improvement even with your first try at adding bass traps.


For now, your 1dB Room Gain / 5KHz Max EQ Frequency setup is a perfectly reasonable workaround.


-------------------------------------


Did you do any RTA Measurements with ARC turned off?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17570748
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I sent the list, on the previous thread page, to both oppo and Anthem yesterday. The response from oppo was in response to my email.
> 
> John



Understood. My comment was mostly intended for others who might like to help nail this down.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17570321
> 
> 
> If you've got the Oppo network stuff set to Auto(DHCP) the other lines will be grayed out (i.e., you can't change them), but they should show the values set up by the DHCP protocol via your router and your ISP.
> 
> 
> There are several reasons why you can have no network connectivity even though the Oppo is seeing your router. Here are some:
> 
> 
> 1) Your router is not set to support DHCP requests. This means the Oppo can find your router, but the Oppo's request for an IP address and other important info doesn't get passed through the router for handling by your ISP or doesn't get handled by your router. Symptoms would be a "self assigned" IP address in the Oppo info and no DNS addresses.
> 
> 
> 2) Your router has MAC address security enabled and the Oppo has not been entered into its table as a device allowed to work on your network. The MAC address of the Oppo is the last item listed in its Setup > Network stuff. The MAC address is the hardware networking address of the Oppo.
> 
> 
> 3) Your router has a limit on how many devices can connect through it and the Oppo is one device too many.
> 
> 
> Typically you will set up a home network with NAT (Network Address Translation) turned on in your router. This means the computers inside your network see IP addresses in a range you've picked. Only the router sees your public IP address that it gets from your ISP. The router does the translation between public and private IP addresses for your computers. One thing to check is that you've set aside enough numbers in your internal addressing to accommodate the Oppo as an additional device.
> 
> 
> Set this way, when things are working the Oppo will show an IP address in your local (internal) address range. It will show the internal IP address of your router as its "gateway" address, and it will either show the internal IP address of your router as its DNS entry (if the router is handling DNS stuff), or it will show one or two public IP addresses for DNS if the router let it get those from your ISP. Again all that stuff will be grayed out.
> 
> 
> The thing to do is to look at the network info on any computer in your network that is working and compare to what the Oppo is showing to see what's up.
> 
> 
> You can also check in your router to see if it is seeing the MAC address of your Oppo as one of the devices trying to talk to it.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I will check these settings tonight when I get home. The odd thing is that the Oppo was doing auto updates all along, so I don't know what would have changed. Nothing has been changed with my network since getting the Oppo.


If I reran the Oppos setup wizard from scratch, might that repair the issue?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17570857
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I will check these settings tonight when I get home. The odd thing is that the Oppo was doing auto updates all along, so I don't know what would have changed. Nothing has been changed with my network since getting the Oppo.
> 
> 
> If I reran the Oppos setup wizard from scratch, might that repair the issue?



No. The setup stuff won't alter this. If you've got the Oppo networking set to Auto and it is not connecting, then the problem is elsewhere in your network -- most likely your router.


You might try re-installing the Oppo firmware, but I doubt that will fix it either.


Sometimes with routers all you need to do is reboot them.


Some routers have a limit of supporting only a few devices at a time, so whether things work or not depends on how many devices you have had active since you last rebooted the router.


Here's a suggestion:


Go to a computer that is working and copy down its networking numbers. Turn off that computer. In the Oppo, change to Manual and enter those numbers. Does that work?


Also, go to your router and find its list of the devices it is currently talking to. Is the Oppo in there (i.e., does its MAC address show)? Is there some difference between the way the router shows the Oppo as opposed to computers which are working on your network?


If you have any computers set up with manual networking numbers, make sure they haven't been set to use the IP address the Oppo is getting from your router via its Auto setup.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17567444
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I retried the 2 channel test and no matter what I pick as the output mode, I get nothing out of my side and rear channels. Pressing select shows 2 channel in and 2 channel out again, no matter what is selected in mode. Using the arrow keys to switch back and forth has no affect.
> 
> John



Greetings,


I tried a two channel signal using both stereo music and broadcast cable. I had no trouble switching modes and getting sound from all the speakers although initially using AL cinema I only got sound from the left/right, switching to AL music and back solved that.


The 7 channel stereo issue with AL cinema seems to be true on my system as well.



Regards,


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17564616
> 
> 
> That is probably a hardware failure on your Video board, but it may still be something you can fix at home.
> 
> 
> One thing to try is to switch to using the HDMI 2 output -- note that you won't get on-screen displays that way (including the test patterns) -- but it may give you a workaround while you sort this out with Anthem.
> 
> 
> Another thing to try is to see if any of the Video Output > Data settings works. For example, RGB output might work. Again, this could be a workaround while waiting. [I'm assuming you had good HDMI video to your display before this. If you've NEVER had good HDMI video to your display then adjusting your Video Output settings may be what's needed.]
> 
> 
> Another thing to try is to Reset Factory Defaults and then manually re-enter you Video Output settings -- just enough to get the video going. If that works then try re-entering the rest of your settings. If THAT works then that suggest that somehow your settings data on the video board got corrupted. The fix for this is to continue with the manual re-entry of all your settings rather than using Saved settings.
> 
> 
> Anthem Tech Support may also suggest that you re-install the firmware on top of itself. This can fix certain rare problems.
> 
> 
> And Anthem Tech Support may also suggest you open the lid and re-seat the video output daughter board that attaches to the top of the video board. There have been a few cases where video failure was caused by that board having shifted during shipping. Do not open the chassis until they ask you to do so, and with the chassis open, take precautions to make sure you don't do any static electric discharge to any of the electronics.
> 
> --Bob



Hi All,


Using the HDMI2 output from my D2v to my projector does yield a normal picture. I know I won't get on-screen display from there and am OK with that. I will later connect all components via HDMI and watch Star Trek again.


Furthermore, I received a call from Anthem Tech Support (only a couple of hours after placing it) and Piero confirmed that with these symptoms, it is likely a small output board for HDMI1 they will have to swap out.


As I type, he has just emailed me a form to complete - now done. (As information, I has also connected my sources to the D2v with HDMI and HDMI out was the same reddish intermittantly working picture.)


He will send an RMA and I will take my unit to Anthem myself. Piero indicated it might be possible to have it in and out in a few hours. (I can do my Christmas shopping which always starts with a present for myself and pick up a few different types of beer in the meantime.)


Very much liking using my HTPC with a Logitech DiNovo Mini from "The Chair"...


Thanks and Take Care,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17571295
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I tried a two channel signal using both stereo music and broadcast cable. I had no trouble switching modes and getting sound from all the speakers although initially using AL cinema I only got sound from the left/right, switching to AL music and back solved that.
> 
> 
> The 7 channel stereo issue with AL cinema seems to be true on my system as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



The having to switch out and back in to AL-Cinema to get output from the surrounds is apparently the 2.0 Mode Presets bug already scheduled to be fixed.


-------------------------------------


On the AL-Cinema sounding too much like 7.1 Stereo All, please also try the test we talked about above: Temporarily change your speaker configuration to 5.1 and see if AL-Cinema now sounds "correct" -- on only the 5.1 speakers of course.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/17571306
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> Using the HDMI2 output from my D2v to my projector does yield a normal picture. I know I won't get on-screen display from there and am OK with that. I will later connect all components via HDMI and watch Star Trek again.
> 
> 
> Furthermore, I received a call from Anthem Tech Support (only a couple of hours after placing it) and Piero confirmed that with these symptoms, it is likely a small output board for HDMI1 they will have to swap out.
> 
> 
> As I type, he has just emailed me a form to complete - now done. (As information, I has also connected my sources to the D2v with HDMI and HDMI out was the same reddish intermittantly working picture.)
> 
> 
> He will send an RMA and I will take my unit to Anthem myself. Piero indicated it might be possible to have it in and out in a few hours. (I can do my Christmas shopping which always starts with a present for myself and pick up a few different types of beer in the meantime.)
> 
> 
> Very much liking using my HTPC with a Logitech DiNovo Mini from "The Chair"...
> 
> 
> Thanks and Take Care,
> 
> Mike



That daughter board swap out makes perfect sense. The actual process of swapping it out is trivial, but unless you are familiar with taking static electric precautions it is best to have Anthem do it just as you planned, since even one untimely spark from your fingers can screw up whatever electronics you touched.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17570738
> 
> 
> This happend to me when I used a video splitter on my DTV HDMI. One going directly to the TV (720P) and one gong to the D2v (1080P 24) to a projector
> 
> 
> The problem was the EDID of the 1080 24P causing a misfire with the 720P and hence causing the color problem exactly like yours. When I unpluged the 720P HDMI all was good again.



Right. It's a form of HDMI handshake failure. But in his case the thing that appears to be screwing up is the HDMI video output daughter board that sits on top of the main video board and generates the signals for the two HDMI output jacks. Swapping that out is a simple fix. And that's what hardware warranties are for!

--Bob


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17571446
> 
> 
> That daughter board swap out makes perfect sense. The actual process of swapping it out is trivial, but unless you are familiar with taking static electric precautions it is best to have Anthem do it just as you planned, since even one untimely spark from your fingers can screw up whatever electronics you touched.
> 
> --Bob



Agreed. I tried to humbly mention I am a graduate of Electronic Engineering, would they consider just sending the board, but he indicated there could be some programming involved and they would prefer to have the unit onsite to be sure. I agreed without hesitation.


If someone did cause damage via a static charge, it could be very difficult to isolate and the customer might not become aware of the damage unit later then issuing a warranty claim. Suspect the scaler and daughter boards have versioning to ensure as well.


Now awaiting RMA to invoke road trip. I'll find a nice place to take my wife for lunch whilst it is being processed somewhere close to Annagem Blvd..


----------



## jayray

It turns out that my problems with 2 channel stereo + AL cinema had to do with the fact my CD player was set to music config which is 2 channel. Therefore the mode switching doesn't work with that config. Once the config was changed to movies, I got sound out of all speakers, with the surrounds having a lower volume than mains but hearing voices out of all the side and back speakers. It did sound as though all speakers were carrying the same info just at diff volume levels. Switching back from diff modes made no diff.

John


ps. Nick said the issue with 7.1 DTS-MA tracks has been sent to the engineers already.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17572306
> 
> 
> It turns out that my problems with 2 channel stereo + AL cinema had to do with the fact my CD player was set to music config which is 2 channel. Therefore the mode switching doesn't work with that config. Once the config was changed to movies, I got sound out of all speakers, with the surrounds having a lower volume than mains but hearing voices out of all the side and back speakers. It did sound as though all speakers were carrying the same info just at diff volume levels. Switching back from diff modes made no diff.
> 
> John



John,

First of all, I'm surprised your CD Source on the Music configuration even gave you the option of switching to AL-Cinema! Generally, if an audio mode can't work with your current speaker configuration it is simply not offered when you cycle through the choices with the Mode button and the arrow keys.


That's why I rejected that possible explanation. Hmm, I wonder if it is a bug if it is offered to you when it can't do anything?


-------------------------------------


Anyway, now that you've got AL-Cinema working, please also try the trick of temporarily changing from 7.1 speakers to 5.1 speakers. Is the Side surround content of AL-Cinema more "normal" when you set 5.1 speakers?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

when I listened to the AL cinema using 2 channel, as I mentioned, the surrounds had lower vol but voices. Is this normal or should I be hearing something else?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/17571634
> 
> 
> Agreed. I tried to humbly mention I am a graduate of Electronic Engineering, would they consider just sending the board, but he indicated there could be some programming involved and they would prefer to have the unit onsite to be sure. I agreed without hesitation.
> 
> 
> If someone did cause damage via a static charge, it could be very difficult to isolate and the customer might not become aware of the damage unit later then issuing a warranty claim. Suspect the scaler and daughter boards have versioning to ensure as well.
> 
> 
> Now awaiting RMA to invoke road trip. I'll find a nice place to take my wife for lunch whilst it is being processed somewhere close to Annagem Blvd..



Yes they may have to reload the firmware after making the board swap. They certainly have to do it if the full video board is swapped out. And at this point they are probably so gun-shy of video board firmware install problems that they want to do it in house -- particularly since you are so close -- just to make sure there is no problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17572678
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> when I listened to the AL cinema using 2 channel, as I mentioned, the surrounds had lower vol but voices. Is this normal or should I be hearing something else?
> 
> John



That's what we are trying to figure out. The other posters (all with 7.1 speaker setups) are saying something changed for the worse in AL-Cinema from V2.07 to V2.08.


Nick tells me that the surround content for AL-Cinema should be "like all channel stereo" only at lower volume, which would mean you should hear some dialog.


But one of the other posters did the trick of changing to 5.1 speakers and says that this trick makes his AL-Cinema side surrounds work correctly -- the way it did for him in V2.07 -- whereas it is wrong when he uses 7.1 speakers.


So I'm trying to get some additional confirmation that AL-Cinema works "right" in V2.08 for 5.1 speakers -- which matches my experience with my 5.1 speaker setup -- and is clearly "different" when you set 7.1 speakers. Since there shouldn't be any real difference, that would point to a bug.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17572721
> 
> 
> Nick tells me that the surround content for AL-Cinema should be "like all channel stereo" only at lower volume, which would mean you should hear some dialog.



Hmmm. The D2 manual describes AL Cinema thusly: >>AnthemLogic-Cinema provides a large, enveloping and dynamic movie listening experience that makes 2-channel movies sound more like what is experienced in a state-of-the art movie theater.


----------



## jayray

OK, tried the 5.1 speaker config and it seems that with 7.1 there is similar sound from all speakers but at lower vol from the surrounds. With 5.1, the left and right seem to have the sound you'd expect from a stereo track which is moved to the surrounds. Don't know if this helps but there it is









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17572923
> 
> 
> Either the explanation is broken, or the algorithm is.



I suspect it is both -- the explanation for 5.1 and the algorithm for 7.1 speakers....











The real issue here is whether something changed for the worse between V2.07 and V2.08, and whether that is in AL-Cinema or in something else -- e.g.., ARC configuration not carrying over properly between the two or some such.


As always, I reloaded my ARC configuration after installing V2.08, even though you are not supposed to have to do that. On the other hand, these same people are saying PLIIx-Movie is still working fine in V2.08 which wouldn't be the case if the speaker configuration was screwed up.


It is also possible to screw up your speaker volume trims if you had old values in Saved User Settings and used those after the firmware install, but that should affect PLIIx-Movie as well.


In my 5.1 speaker configuration, using V2.08 and my latest ARC setup, I'm not hearing anything wrong with AL-Cinema when watching stereo TV programs.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17570938
> 
> 
> No. The setup stuff won't alter this. If you've got the Oppo networking set to Auto and it is not connecting, then the problem is elsewhere in your network -- most likely your router.
> 
> 
> You might try re-installing the Oppo firmware, but I doubt that will fix it either.
> 
> 
> Sometimes with routers all you need to do is reboot them.
> 
> 
> Some routers have a limit of supporting only a few devices at a time, so whether things work or not depends on how many devices you have had active since you last rebooted the router.
> 
> 
> Here's a suggestion:
> 
> 
> Go to a computer that is working and copy down its networking numbers. Turn off that computer. In the Oppo, change to Manual and enter those numbers. Does that work?
> 
> 
> Also, go to your router and find its list of the devices it is currently talking to. Is the Oppo in there (i.e., does its MAC address show)? Is there some difference between the way the router shows the Oppo as opposed to computers which are working on your network?
> 
> 
> If you have any computers set up with manual networking numbers, make sure they haven't been set to use the IP address the Oppo is getting from your router via its Auto setup.
> 
> --Bob



Ghost in the machine: Just got home, copied down down some networking numbers from another device to input manually into the Oppo. Opened the Oppo's network setup screen only to find all the values filled in. Tried a connection test and all worked ok. So, I have no idea why these were not coming in earlier today as I've done nothing that should have effected it. Anyway, I'm happy it is back. Thanks for your help.......again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17573038
> 
> 
> Ghost in the machine: Just got home, copied down down some networking numbers from another device to input manually into the Oppo. Opened the Oppo's network setup screen only to find all the values filled in. Tried a connection test and all worked ok. So, I have no idea why these were not coming in earlier today as I've done nothing that should have effected it. Anyway, I'm happy it is back. Thanks for your help.......again.



This is typical of one of two things:


1) Your ISP was having a problem and was not responding with good numbers when asked by DHCP. If any other computer on your network was able to boot up and get good numbers that can't be it, or


2) Your router is operating near the limit of how many devices it is configured to support. As you turn on computers it uses up a slot. When those computers stop being used a slot gets freed up, but that doesn't happen until quite some time passes. If the Oppo asks for connection while all the slots are filled, it won't work. A few hours later a slot opens up and the Oppo can connect again. If this is the case, then some other computer in your home likely won't be able to connect right now because the Oppo has taken a slot. If you have a wifi setup, maybe your neighbors are tapping in to that?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17572975
> 
> 
> OK, tried the 5.1 speaker config and it seems that with 7.1 there is similar sound from all speakers but at lower vol from the surrounds. With 5.1, the left and right seem to have the sound you'd expect from a stereo track which is moved to the surrounds. Don't know if this helps but there it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



It sounds like you are trying to say 5.1 speakers sounds correct and 7.1 speakers sounds wrong or at least significantly different. Do I have that right?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Since I never use surround for 2 channel sources, I don't have a lot of experience with these formats, however the 5.1 sounds more natural so yes 7.1 less so.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17573144
> 
> 
> Since I never use surround for 2 channel sources, I don't have a lot of experience with these formats, however the 5.1 sounds more natural so yes 7.1 less so.
> 
> John



OK, that's consistent with what I'm getting in my 5.1 system, and what the other poster reported.


---------------------------------


So you just use Stereo mode when watching 2.0 content on TV? Or older 2.0 movies?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I don't watch tv in my hometheatre









John


----------



## gonzalc3

Finally, after more two months of waiting tomorrow I will be getting my Anthem D2v.

First, I ordered an AVM50v and waited for more than a month a half and never got news from the dealer on when to expect to get it.. Then I contacted another dealer, and finally receive it...


On the one hand I am excited, but on the other hand I am still in suspense on what to expect... I have never heard an anthem unit before... The D2v will be replacing a Marantz AV8003... Has anyone heard both of these units?.. If so what where the differences?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17573090
> 
> 
> This is typical of one of two things:
> 
> 
> 1) Your ISP was having a problem and was not responding with good numbers when asked by DHCP. If any other computer on your network was able to boot up and get good numbers that can't be it, or
> 
> 
> 2) Your router is operating near the limit of how many devices it is configured to support. As you turn on computers it uses up a slot. When those computers stop being used a slot gets freed up, but that doesn't happen until quite some time passes. If the Oppo asks for connection while all the slots are filled, it won't work. A few hours later a slot opens up and the Oppo can connect again. If this is the case, then some other computer in your home likely won't be able to connect right now because the Oppo has taken a slot. If you have a wifi setup, maybe your neighbors are tapping in to that?
> 
> --Bob



No idea Bob:


I just tested it again and all the values were still there but testing the connection failed. I tried unplugging one device. I turned the Oppo off/on and the gateway and DNS vales went to zero.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17573517
> 
> 
> No idea Bob:
> 
> 
> I just tested it again and all the values were still there but testing the connection failed. I tried unplugging one device. I turned the Oppo off/on and the gateway and DNS vales went to zero.



Time to go back to those tests I suggested earlier.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17573324
> 
> 
> I don't watch tv in my hometheatre
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



What? Not even Cartoon Channel?










--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17573260
> 
> 
> OK, that's consistent with what I'm getting in my 5.1 system, and what the other poster reported.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> So you just use Stereo mode when watching 2.0 content on TV? Or older 2.0 movies?
> 
> --Bob



I sent the problem off to Support and received an e-mail back from Nick stating that he sent it off to his DSP Programmers.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17573547
> 
> 
> What? Not even Cartoon Channel?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob




Some movie trailers are in 2.0 on your Blu Ray Disks.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/17573443
> 
> 
> Finally, after more two months of waiting tomorrow I will be getting my Anthem D2v.
> 
> First, I ordered an AVM50v and waited for more than a month a half and never got news from the dealer on when to expect to get it.. Then I contacted another dealer, and finally receive it...
> 
> 
> On the one hand I am excited, but on the other hand I am still in suspense on what to expect... I have never heard an anthem unit before... The D2v will be replacing a Marantz AV8003... Has anyone heard both of these units?.. If so what where the differences?



My father has the Marantz and I have to say you will be blown away when you hear the Anthem. Now this might be subjective IMO but never the less to me I have never heard anything sound as good as the d2v.


----------



## dmusoke

I was performing an ARC calibration on my 50v that was just returned from Anthem after the video board was fixed. I noticed the following as the sweeps were being performed:


1) For the Center and Surround channels, the _first_ sweep starts at mid-frequency then sweeps up the top frequency. The next set of sweeps (8) start normally from the lowest and run up to their maximum frequency. Is this normal and if not, is it a problem?


2) Also at the end of each set of sweeps (9 total per speaker), before the switch over to the next speaker, a rather loud snap is heard coming from the speakers. Do you experience the same thing?


Thanks,

David


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17573547
> 
> 
> What? Not even Cartoon Channel?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I've thought of Dr. Phil in 7.1









John

Ps. For some positive news, I watched Terminator Salvation today and man do I love my D2v with ARC, it sounds amazing!!


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17574033
> 
> 
> My father has the Marantz and I have to say you will be blown away when you hear the Anthem. Now this might be subjective IMO but never the less to me I have never heard anything sound as good as the d2v.



What are the main differences that you hear?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17573541
> 
> 
> Time to go back to those tests I suggested earlier.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, I've tried them and I have had no consistent luck so far. I've even disconnected all devices except the Oppo with no positive results. It is very random. I have 3 devices hard wired and one wireless and have absolute no issues other than with the Oppo. Currently, the second DNS entry (DNS 2) is the only one with zeros. If I try to input values manually, I can't input anything into DNS 2. Very strange.


Edit:


Coultd the Oppo have a bad card?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17574217
> 
> 
> Ok, I've tried them and I have had no consistent luck so far. I've even disconnected all devices except the Oppo with no positive results. It is very random. I have 3 devices hard wired and one wireless and have absolute no issues other than with the Oppo. Currently, the second DNS entry (DNS 2) is the only one with zeros. If I try to input values manually, I can't input anything into DNS 2. Very strange.
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> 
> Coultd the Oppo have a bad card?



Call Oppo tech support. They will likely ask you to re-install the current firmware (download and unzip it from their support page and put the "UPG" folder on an empty USB thumb drive formatted as FAT).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17574047
> 
> 
> I was performing an ARC calibration on my 50v that was just returned from Anthem after the video board was fixed. I noticed the following as the sweeps were being performed:
> 
> 
> 1) For the Center and Surround channels, the _first_ sweep starts at mid-frequency then sweeps up the top frequency. The next set of sweeps (8) start normally from the lowest and run up to their maximum frequency. Is this normal and if not, is it a problem?
> 
> 
> 2) Also at the end of each set of sweeps (9 total per speaker), before the switch over to the next speaker, a rather loud snap is heard coming from the speakers. Do you experience the same thing?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



The first sweep for each speaker is a throw away. No problem there.


The noise at the transition between speakers is a firmware bug I thought they had fixed by now, but perhaps that's scheduled for the next firmware. I did not have it when I redid my ARC setup under V2.08. It is not a hardware problem.


Email the info on that to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17574428
> 
> 
> Call Oppo tech support. They will likely ask you to re-install the current firmware (download and unzip it from their support page and put the "UPG" folder on an empty USB thumb drive formatted as FAT).
> 
> --Bob



Also, if you can, try switching CAT5x cables with another device. Your issue seems to be on the Hardware layer, which could include the Oppo firmware as mentioned. If you are using an ISP's router, they may limit you to 3 devices and the router determines this by caching or storing the unique identifier of the Oppo's network card. (MAC Address) The cache may be stored for up to 12 hours. You may also unplug power from your router for a minute, disconnect everything bu the Oppo, then retry. Make sure there are no manually entered values remaining in the Oppo network config.


If you have your own router, (Linksys, D-Link, Microsoft, etc.) then try another cable. Also be sure there is nothing such as a hair bridging the pins inside each connector. Blow the sockets out and reconnect. If not that then either the oppo card or firmware remains..


Good Luck,

Mike


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17574047
> 
> 
> I was performing an ARC calibration on my 50v that was just returned from Anthem after the video board was fixed. I noticed the following as the sweeps were being performed:
> 
> 
> 1) For the Center and Surround channels, the _first_ sweep starts at mid-frequency then sweeps up the top frequency. The next set of sweeps (8) start normally from the lowest and run up to their maximum frequency. Is this normal and if not, is it a problem?
> 
> 
> 2) Also at the end of each set of sweeps (9 total per speaker), before the switch over to the next speaker, a rather loud snap is heard coming from the speakers. Do you experience the same thing?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



Yes, same experience. I believe ARC can get an accurate response from speakers with 9 sweeps, probably disregarding incomplete response sweeps.


Not a loud sound, but more of an audible snap if your calibrated level is at 75dB.


----------



## binkman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/17573443
> 
> 
> Finally, after more two months of waiting tomorrow I will be getting my Anthem D2v.
> 
> First, I ordered an AVM50v and waited for more than a month a half and never got news from the dealer on when to expect to get it.. Then I contacted another dealer, and finally receive it...
> 
> 
> On the one hand I am excited, but on the other hand I am still in suspense on what to expect... I have never heard an anthem unit before... The D2v will be replacing a Marantz AV8003... Has anyone heard both of these units?.. If so what where the differences?



I had an AV8003/MM8000 and went to an AVM50v + A5 in August. While the Marantz has a smooth warm sound, it never met my expectations for 5.1 movies. The Anthem does this MUCH better. 2-ch is also very nice.


Of course the AV8003 does not have video processing, so the Anthem is in another league here.


You won't regret the move.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17574488
> 
> 
> Yes, same experience. I believe ARC can get an accurate response from speakers with 9 sweeps, probably disregarding incomplete response sweeps.
> 
> 
> Not a loud sound, but more of an audible snap if your calibrated level is at 75dB.



Good, so its not my hardware at issue. Thanks







!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17574443
> 
> 
> The first sweep for each speaker is a throw away. No problem there.
> 
> 
> The noise at the transition between speakers is a firmware bug I thought they had fixed by now, but perhaps that's scheduled for the next firmware. I did not have it when I redid my ARC setup under V2.08. It is not a hardware problem.
> 
> 
> Email the info on that to Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Did already and yes, hope they fix it as its kind of loud at the 75dB calibration levels. Thanks for the help


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:


Did Anthem fix the test tone generation issues they had in version 2.07? Haven't had a chance to test it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17575245
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Did Anthem fix the test tone generation issues they had in version 2.07? Haven't had a chance to test it.



The problem was with the special bass test tones in the Room Resonance Filter menu. It is not fixed in V2.08 and is scheduled to be fixed in the first "test" release that follows -- although who knows what schedule they are on now with this V2.08 installer hiccup.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17575329
> 
> 
> The problem was with the special bass test tones in the Room Resonance Filter menu. It is not fixed in V2.08 and is scheduled to be fixed in the first "test" release that follows -- although who knows what schedule they are on now with this V2.08 installer hiccup.
> 
> --Bob



Cool...Thanks!


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17574428
> 
> 
> Call Oppo tech support. They will likely ask you to re-install the current firmware (download and unzip it from their support page and put the "UPG" folder on an empty USB thumb drive formatted as FAT).
> 
> --Bob



I did try re-installing the firmware from a USB that is formatted as FAT32. The software installed ok, but no luck with my network issue. I contacted Oppo tech support, but their suggestions have already been tried unsuccessfully. I'm really starting to think it is a hardware issue.


Edit:


I have 5 devices attached in total. Two wireless (PC and printer) and three wired (PS3, TV and Oppo). I've tried a new cable connecting the Oppo unsuccessfully.


I entered my routers webpage (Siemens Gigaset 567) and it is not showing the Oppo show up on my devices page at all. I contacted my provider and they confirmed that 5 devices is ok, but they were not able to help me with anything else as their limit of support is getting pc's hooked up.


I don't know enough about navigating myself around my routers setup page and I fear I would screw something up if I made changes somewhere. If you can suggest something else, I'm willing to try.


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17575998
> 
> 
> I did try re-installing the firmware from a USB that is formatted as FAT32. The software installed ok, but no luck with my network issue. I contacted Oppo tech support, but their suggestions have already been tried unsuccessfully. I'm really starting to think it is a hardware issue.
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> 
> I have 5 devices attached in total. Two wireless (PC and printer) and three wired (PS3, TV and Oppo). I've tried a new cable connecting the Oppo unsuccessfully.
> 
> 
> I entered my routers webpage (Siemens Gigaset 567) and it is not showing the Oppo show up on my devices page at all. I contacted my provider and they confirmed that 5 devices is ok, but they were not able to help me with anything else as their limit of support is getting pc's hooked up.
> 
> 
> I don't know enough about navigating myself around my routers setup page and I fear I would screw something up if I made changes somewhere. If you can suggest something else, I'm willing to try.



Hello,


You've been quite thorough. Found a link to your router's manual here .


I thought to try to see if speed autonegotiation between your router and the Oppo is an issue, but I do not see a way to control port speed and duplex in your router. It would be good to try another port which is working fine with another device. (I'm sure you've already tried that.)


Last workaround attempt I can think of (Not knowing the Oppo's network features) would be manual entry of values again.


If you go to each of your wired computers, (Xp) click "Start -> Run". Type "ipconfig /all" and note the IP Address and gateway of each. Then manually enter settings on the Oppo. Use an IP address similar to the others but a couple of numbers higher. (Ex. if the highest address any of your computers have is 192.168.1.105, then use an address of 192.168.1.108 on your Oppo - it must be unique and remain that way - you could also use 192.168.1.90 in the example above, as it is valid for the subnet your router uses, but also outside the range of addresses which may be assigned automatically, ensuring no conflict could occur).


For DNServer(s), it should be OK to input the IP address of your router as it would forward any DNS lookup requests to the DNS Servers specified in it's WAN or Internet Configuration. One DNS is OK. If nothing works this way, then enter the first internet DNS you see on your other computers or in your router's config page.


You might also try taking the Oppo to a neighbor's house to see if it functions fine from there. (Possible means to see if the physical connection's Autonegotiation is the issue.)


Or request a replacement if it is under warranty. (Tell them all the things you've tried if you encounter hesitation.)


Edit:


Reading back further, you typed the ethernet light on the Oppo and Router Port are both ON. That would seem to indicate the physical connection is established via Auto settings... The most likely thing would be that the device listed as your DNS in the Oppo is not resolving internet names to numerical addresses. Trying both the gateway/router's IP there, and then in subsequent attempts, your internet provider's DNServers may yield a result...


Good Luck,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It has been confirmed that HDMI Bitstream output of "Star Trek" Blu-Ray on the Oppo BDP-83 produces very occasional and brief audio dropouts (perhaps 2 or 3 over the course of the movie, each a fraction of a second, and never repeatable if you replay the scene) with other AVRs as well.


So it is not specifically a problem with the D2v or AVM 50v with V2.08 firmware.


Oppo is aware of the issue and is working on it.


A workaround is to use HDMI LPCM from the Oppo when playing this disc.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17576417
> 
> 
> It has been confirmed that HDMI Bitstream output of "Star Trek" Blu-Ray on the Oppo BDP-83 produces very occasional and brief audio dropouts (perhaps 2 or 3 over the course of the movie, each a fraction of a second, and never repeatable if you replay the scene) with other AVRs as well.
> 
> 
> So it is not specifically a problem with the D2v or AVM 50v with V2.08 firmware.
> 
> 
> Oppo is aware of the issue and is working on it.
> 
> 
> A workaround is to use HDMI LPCM from the Oppo when playing this disc.
> 
> --Bob




IM Really not seeing any advantages to bitstreaming blu ray with all the problems some players are experiencing with it. LPCM works just find and sounds incredible to my novice ears.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17575998
> 
> 
> I did try re-installing the firmware from a USB that is formatted as FAT32. The software installed ok, but no luck with my network issue. I contacted Oppo tech support, but their suggestions have already been tried unsuccessfully. I'm really starting to think it is a hardware issue.
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> 
> I have 5 devices attached in total. Two wireless (PC and printer) and three wired (PS3, TV and Oppo). I've tried a new cable connecting the Oppo unsuccessfully.
> 
> 
> I entered my routers webpage (Siemens Gigaset 567) and it is not showing the Oppo show up on my devices page at all. I contacted my provider and they confirmed that 5 devices is ok, but they were not able to help me with anything else as their limit of support is getting pc's hooked up.
> 
> 
> I don't know enough about navigating myself around my routers setup page and I fear I would screw something up if I made changes somewhere. If you can suggest something else, I'm willing to try.



Try this:


1) If your router includes wifi (radio networking connections), go into the router's setup and turn off its wifi so nothing can connect to it that way.


2) Make sure your ethernet connection between the router and the Oppo is a direct run -- no ethernet hubs or bridges or whatever in between.


3) Leave the Oppo's networking set on Auto (DHCP). If you change anything here, power down the Oppo normally after that so that the Setup menu changes get saved.


4) Power off the Oppo and your router. If you have a separate modem box between the router and your ISP power that off as well. Disconnect all output lines from your router except for the direct ethernet line to the Oppo. At this point your router should have only one input line (from the ISP) and one output line (to the Oppo) and power. The idea is to make sure nothing else can possibly attempt a connection through that router when you power back up.


5) Now pull the power plugs from the Oppo, from the router, and if you have separate modem box from that as well. The idea is to force a complete restart for everything.


6) Wait at least 10 seconds then, if you have a separate modem box, plug that in and turn it on. Wait for it to COMPLETELY boot up -- you can usually tell by its flashing lights. Some of these boxes take a couple minutes to boot up.


7) Now plug in and power up your router. Again wait for it to COMPLETELY boot up.


8) Finally plug in and power up the Oppo.


Do you get a good network connection? If so then this suggests your router is maxed out on connections when other things are also allowed to connect through it. Call your ISP or read your router manual to see if there's anything you can do to adjust this. Try doing a full Reset on your router to force it back to factory defaults (your ISP should be able to help with this). Figure out if NAT is turned on in your router (which should be the case) and make sure your internal address range has enough numbers reserved and that your DHCP table allows enough connections.


If you get a good connection, power-cycle the Oppo a few times to see if it restores a good connection each time.


If you don't get a good connection, call Oppo and request hardware service, explaining what you did, AND explaining that you have had a few random instances where the Oppo did work on this network, so it is not the case that the router is blocking it by MAC address or some such.


It would help if you could try the Oppo on some friend's network. If it fails there as well, then that too would point to an Oppo problem.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17576417
> 
> 
> It has been confirmed that HDMI Bitstream output of "Star Trek" Blu-Ray on the Oppo BDP-83 produces very occasional and brief audio dropouts (perhaps 2 or 3 over the course of the movie, each a fraction of a second, and never repeatable if you replay the scene) with other AVRs as well.
> 
> 
> So it is not specifically a problem with the D2v or AVM 50v with V2.08 firmware.
> 
> 
> Oppo is aware of the issue and is working on it.
> 
> 
> A workaround is to use HDMI LPCM from the Oppo when playing this disc.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


While I did notice to audio dropouts they were so brief in duration that it was barely a distraction. I haven't had any issues with bitstreaming to the Anthem from the Oppo or Panasonic players.


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17576487
> 
> 
> IM Really not seeing any advantages to bitstreaming blu ray with all the problems some players are experiencing with it. LPCM works just find and sounds incredible to my novice ears.



Using the Oppo with the D2v or AVM 50v there are two cases where you should definitely use Bitstream.


1) When playing a DTS-ES track (found on some SD-DVDs). The Oppo does not decode the rear channel information. The D2v and AVM 50v do.


2) When playing a rare DTS-HD MA 5.1 192KHz track. The Oppo decodes that to 5.1 96KHz. The D2v and AVM 50v decode the full 192KHz. Note that it is just this one specific format that has this limitation in the Oppo.


On the other hand, you should always have SACD Output set to PCM in the Oppo (when using HDMI to the Anthems), and you should also use HDMI LPCM when playing any HDCD discs because the Oppo decodes the extra dynamic range matrixed into HDCD discs and the D2v and AVM 50v do not.


And there is still a bug in V2.08 where you can have momentary dropouts using HDMI LPCM input in cases where only one channel is active at the moment. Practically speaking, this is only a problem playing calibration discs since even Mono tracks get sent out as 2.0 (with identical content in LF/RF) when using HDMI LPCM. The workaround is to use HDMI Bitstream.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17576519
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> While I did notice to audio dropouts they were so brief in duration that it was barely a distraction. I haven't had any issues with bitstreaming to the Anthem from the Oppo or Panasonic players.
> 
> 
> Regards,



I switch between Bitstream and LPCM regularly as part of my Beta testing. Bitstreaming works fine. The issue with "Star Trek" is specific to how the Oppo reads that disc.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/17576234
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> You've been quite thorough. Found a link to your router's manual here .
> 
> 
> I thought to try to see if speed autonegotiation between your router and the Oppo is an issue, but I do not see a way to control port speed and duplex in your router. It would be good to try another port which is working fine with another device. (I'm sure you've already tried that.)
> 
> 
> Last workaround attempt I can think of (Not knowing the Oppo's network features) would be manual entry of values again.
> 
> 
> If you go to each of your wired computers, (Xp) click "Start -> Run". Type "ipconfig /all" and note the IP Address and gateway of each. Then manually enter settings on the Oppo. Use an IP address similar to the others but a couple of numbers higher. (Ex. if the highest address any of your computers have is 192.168.1.105, then use an address of 192.168.1.108 on your Oppo - it must be unique and remain that way - you could also use 192.168.1.90 in the example above, as it is valid for the subnet your router uses, but also outside the range of addresses which may be assigned automatically, ensuring no conflict could occur).
> 
> 
> For DNServer(s), it should be OK to input the IP address of your router as it would forward any DNS lookup requests to the DNS Servers specified in it's WAN or Internet Configuration. One DNS is OK. If nothing works this way, then enter the first internet DNS you see on your other computers or in your router's config page.
> 
> 
> You might also try taking the Oppo to a neighbor's house to see if it functions fine from there. (Possible means to see if the physical connection's Autonegotiation is the issue.)
> 
> 
> Or request a replacement if it is under warranty. (Tell them all the things you've tried if you encounter hesitation.)
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> 
> Reading back further, you typed the ethernet light on the Oppo and Router Port are both ON. That would seem to indicate the physical connection is established via Auto settings... The most likely thing would be that the device listed as your DNS in the Oppo is not resolving internet names to numerical addresses. Trying both the gateway/router's IP there, and then in subsequent attempts, your internet provider's DNServers may yield a result...
> 
> 
> Good Luck,
> 
> Mike



Mike:


Thanks......yes, I have tried a couple of different ports as well.


I also tried to manually input the values. For some reason, I cannot input DNS2. I can actually input the values, but as soon as I press ok, it goes back to zeros. Even though, by doing so, I can't connect.


Yes, the light is on at either end. When I go to the Oppos network information, it always shows me the IP and subnet mask, but it is the gateway and DNS values which don't always come in, and so far, these have only appeared once since I've discovered the connection issues.


I will update you if I make any headway, but almost ready to give up. Oppo only suggested I power cycle things, but I've tried that several times with no luck.


Thanks,


Mark


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17576514
> 
> 
> Try this:
> 
> 
> 1) If your router includes wifi (radio networking connections), go into the router's setup and turn off its wifi so nothing can connect to it that way.
> 
> 
> 2) Make sure your ethernet connection between the router and the Oppo is a direct run -- no ethernet hubs or bridges or whatever in between.
> 
> 
> 3) Leave the Oppo's networking set on Auto (DHCP). If you change anything here, power down the Oppo normally after that so that the Setup menu changes get saved.
> 
> 
> 4) Power off the Oppo and your router. If you have a separate modem box between the router and your ISP power that off as well. Disconnect all output lines from your router except for the direct ethernet line to the Oppo. At this point your router should have only one input line (from the ISP) and one output line (to the Oppo) and power. The idea is to make sure nothing else can possibly attempt a connection through that router when you power back up.
> 
> 
> 5) Now pull the power plugs from the Oppo, from the router, and if you have separate modem box from that as well. The idea is to force a complete restart for everything.
> 
> 
> 6) Wait at least 10 seconds then, if you have a separate modem box, plug that in and turn it on. Wait for it to COMPLETELY boot up -- you can usually tell by its flashing lights. Some of these boxes take a couple minutes to boot up.
> 
> 
> 7) Now plug in and power up your router. Again wait for it to COMPLETELY boot up.
> 
> 
> 8) Finally plug in and power up the Oppo.
> 
> 
> Do you get a good network connection? If so then this suggests your router is maxed out on connections when other things are also allowed to connect through it. Call your ISP or read your router manual to see if there's anything you can do to adjust this. Try doing a full Reset on your router to force it back to factory defaults (your ISP should be able to help with this). Figure out if NAT is turned on in your router (which should be the case) and make sure your internal address range has enough numbers reserved and that your DHCP table allows enough connections.
> 
> 
> If you get a good connection, power-cycle the Oppo a few times to see if it restores a good connection each time.
> 
> 
> If you don't get a good connection, call Oppo and request hardware service, explaining what you did, AND explaining that you have had a few random instances where the Oppo did work on this network, so it is not the case that the router is blocking it by MAC address or some such.
> 
> 
> It would help if you could try the Oppo on some friend's network. If it fails there as well, then that too would point to an Oppo problem.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I've tried what you suggested and although the gateway and DNS values appeared, I still get connection failure when I test it. I may try to take it to a friends tomorrow to see what it does there. Thanks again.


Edit: Bob: Something I've noticed while browsing through my routers home page is that the DHCP Range is 192.168.2.10 thru 192.168.2.254. When I bring up the Oppos network page, it shows an IP address of 169.254.109.248. Could this be creating the issue?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17576564
> 
> 
> The issue with "Star Trek" is specific to how the Oppo reads that disc.



Hi Bob,


I experienced 1 short, non-repeatable dropout on Star Trek with a different processor fed from the BDP-83 as bitstream. Is this something Oppo is investigating?


Do you know more about the nature of the problem? Seems odd that the player can pull the signal off the disc and decode it flawlessly, yet it breaks going out the back door. It's the same stream the internal decoder ate without a burp. Anyway, I hope they fix it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's an Oppo problem with this specific disc. They are working on it. I don't know any details. Use HDMI LPCM as a workaround.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17578396
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I've tried what you suggested and although the gateway and DNS values appeared, I still get connection failure when I test it. I may try to take it to a friends tomorrow to see what it does there. Thanks again.
> 
> 
> Edit: Bob: Something I've noticed while browsing through my routers home page is that the DHCP Range is 192.168.2.10 thru 192.168.2.254. When I bring up the Oppos network page, it shows an IP address of 169.254.109.248. Could this be creating the issue?



The addresses that begin 192.168 are the internal, private IP addresses for your home network. Your router receives a public IP address from your ISP and takes care of all the address translation necessary to share that one public IP address amongst all the internal addresses that happen to be active at the moment. This is NAT, "Network Address Translation".


The addresses that begin 169.254 are "self-assigned" IP addresses. The Oppo is using that to establish communication with your router while it waits for the router to assign it a NAT address for normal use. Until it gets a NAT address from the router it will not be able to talk to the outside world.


What has happened is that the Oppo has found the router and has put out a request to be assigned a NAT address (via the DHCP protocol) and the router has not done so.


Among other things this means the ethernet hardware is live in the Oppo and is trying to talk to the router. So the odds this is a hardware failure in the Oppo have gone way down.


A problem like this is almost always a configuration error in the router. The most common reason this happens is that the router has been set up to allow only certain devices (by MAC address) or a certain NUMBER of devices to gain access.


Another possibility is that the port you have the Oppo plugged into on the router is not intended for use inside the network. Some routers have what's called a DMZ port which is meant for attaching something like a personal web site server which will be directly visible to the outside world instead of being hidden inside your private (NAT) network.


Some routers also have ports that are intended to be used to attach things like network enabled printers that will only talk to devices inside your network and will never attempt to talk to the outside world.


It is also possible to set up the router to hand out fixed, internal IP addresses to each device by MAC number so they always get the same internal IP address. If your router is set to use a "Static" NAT table like this, then it won't give an IP address to the Oppo because you have not yet added it to that table.


-----------------------------------------------


The thing is, you say the Oppo sometimes works through that router. So that makes it sound like its a maximum number of devices sort of problem, since of course a static NAT table would never work until you enter the Oppo's MAC address into that table.


If you've got the Oppo plugged into a DMZ port then it would be trying to get a public IP address directly from your ISP (instead of an internal, NAT address -- it is "outside" your internal network). Typically your service with the ISP would only allow one public IP address, and the router itself is using that, so the ISP would refuse to give another address to the Oppo.


I'm sorry but networking stuff is inherently complicated, and about the only thing you can do is find a knowledgeable friend who can polk through your router's manual, setup menus, and status displays to figure out what's really going wrong. But I doubt this is a problem with the player.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17580249
> 
> 
> The addresses that begin 192.168 are the internal, private IP addresses for your home network. Your router receives a public IP address from your ISP and takes care of all the address translation necessary to share that one public IP address amongst all the internal addresses that happen to be active at the moment. This is NAT, "Network Address Translation".
> 
> 
> The addresses that begin 169.254 are "self-assigned" IP addresses. The Oppo is using that to establish communication with your router while it waits for the router to assign it a NAT address for normal use. Until it gets a NAT address from the router it will not be able to talk to the outside world.
> 
> 
> What has happened is that the Oppo has found the router and has put out a request to be assigned a NAT address (via the DHCP protocol) and the router has not done so.
> 
> 
> Among other things this means the ethernet hardware is live in the Oppo and is trying to talk to the router. So the odds this is a hardware failure in the Oppo have gone way down.
> 
> 
> A problem like this is almost always a configuration error in the router. The most common reason this happens is that the router has been set up to allow only certain devices (by MAC address) or a certain NUMBER of devices to gain access.
> 
> 
> Another possibility is that the port you have the Oppo plugged into on the router is not intended for use inside the network. Some routers have what's called a DMZ port which is meant for attaching something like a personal web site server which will be directly visible to the outside world instead of being hidden inside your private (NAT) network.
> 
> 
> Some routers also have ports that are intended to be used to attach things like network enabled printers that will only talk to devices inside your network and will never attempt to talk to the outside world.
> 
> 
> It is also possible to set up the router to hand out fixed, internal IP addresses to each device by MAC number so they always get the same internal IP address. If your router is set to use a "Static" NAT table like this, then it won't give an IP address to the Oppo because you have not yet added it to that table.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The thing is, you say the Oppo sometimes works through that router. So that makes it sound like its a maximum number of devices sort of problem, since of course a static NAT table would never work until you enter the Oppo's MAC address into that table.
> 
> 
> If you've got the Oppo plugged into a DMZ port then it would be trying to get a public IP address directly from your ISP (instead of an internal, NAT address -- it is "outside" your internal network). Typically your service with the ISP would only allow one public IP address, and the router itself is using that, so the ISP would refuse to give another address to the Oppo.
> 
> 
> I'm sorry but networking stuff is inherently complicated, and about the only thing you can do is find a knowledgeable friend who can polk through your router's manual, setup menus, and status displays to figure out what's really going wrong. But I doubt this is a problem with the player.
> 
> --Bob



Bob: Thanks, I will see if I can get one of the IT people from work if they can come by to help me out, but I'm still curious as to why I am not able to connect manually by inputting the values from another device.


Edit:


Eureka! I've copied down all the network values from my PS3 and entered all of them manually into the Oppo. I connected successfully. I then changed the IP by increasing the last set of digits by 2 (This would be the highest IP in my network) and tried connecting again. Again, success. I powered off and on several times and each time, so far, I've connected successfully.


Now, as indicated, I've tried this before, but I think the difference was in the subnet mask value that I wasn't changing. The Oppo was recording 255.255.000.000. My PS3 was giving a subnet value of 255.255.255.000 and I didn't input the last 255 value.


In anycase, it is now working (hopefully consistently). I don't know if there is really any advantage of using Auto in the Oppo over Manual, other than setup made easier and management of IP addresses if I had several devices, if I understand DHCP correctly.


Anyway, seems to be working. I thank you for all your help and I've learned some stuff too.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I received Ghost in a shell 2.0 for review on Blu-ray and it contains a DTS-HD 6.1 Discrete Master Audio track. The Anthem properly handled it on all counts.


FYI.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17580738
> 
> 
> Bob: Thanks, I will see if I can get one of the IT people from work if they can come by to help me out, but I'm still curious as to why I am not able to connect manually by inputting the values from another device.
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> 
> Eureka! I've copied down all the network values from my PS3 and entered all of them manually into the Oppo. I connected successfully. I then changed the IP by increasing the last set of digits by 2 (This would be the highest IP in my network) and tried connecting again. Again, success. I powered off and on several times and each time, so far, I've connected successfully.
> 
> 
> Now, as indicated, I've tried this before, but I think the difference was in the subnet mask value that I wasn't changing. The Oppo was recording 255.255.000.000. My PS3 was giving a subnet value of 255.255.255.000 and I didn't input the last 255 value.
> 
> 
> In anycase, it is now working (hopefully consistently). I don't know if there is really any advantage of using Auto in the Oppo over Manual, other than setup made easier and management of IP addresses if I had several devices, if I understand DHCP correctly.
> 
> 
> Anyway, seems to be working. I thank you for all your help and I've learned some stuff too.



Getting the correct Subnet Mask is also a function of the DHCP protocol when the Oppo is set to Auto. It sounds like your router, for some reason, was returning the wrong information to the Oppo. It could even be a firmware bug in your router.


There is no downside to using a Manual setup so long as you are careful to never assign the same IP address to different devices. I suggest you pick an address that is higher than just 2 steps above what your PS3 used however. For example if the highest address currently assigned by DHCP in your network ends in 15, then using a Manual address ending in, say 35 would be safer in case you add other things to your network in the future and forget what address you set up in the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17581363
> 
> 
> Getting the correct Subnet Mask is also a function of the DHCP protocol when the Oppo is set to Auto. It sounds like your router, for some reason, was returning the wrong information to the Oppo. It could even be a firmware bug in your router.
> 
> 
> There is no downside to using a Manual setup so long as you are careful to never assign the same IP address to different devices. I suggest you pick an address that is higher than just 2 steps above what your PS3 used however. For example if the highest address currently assigned by DHCP in your network ends in 15, then using a Manual address ending in, say 35 would be safer in case you add other things to your network in the future and forget what address you set up in the Oppo.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks....I did as you suggested.


----------



## peechus

i'm about to re-measure for the arc and curious as to whether mic positions for music and movie should be different as i have different hot seat locations. moreover,the music hot seat [a stool] is about 16 inches higher than the movie seat. should the mike height be raised accordingly? i believe i can take 10 separate mike positions for music and 10 separate mike positions for movies. advice please...peechus.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/17581646
> 
> 
> i'm about to re-measure for the arc and curious as to whether mic positions for music and movie should be different as i have different hot seat locations. moreover,the music hot seat [a stool] is about 16 inches higher than the movie seat. should the mike height be raised accordingly? i believe i can take 10 separate mike positions for music and 10 separate mike positions for movies. advice please...peechus.



You can, if you wish, use entirely different mic positions when Measuring for ARC's Movie and Music configurations.


Keep in mind, however that there is only one setup for speaker distances (Listener Position), volume trims, and subwoofer phase. So don't go hog wild here and have your movie setup at 20 feet from the fronts and your music setup at 5 feet or some such.


Changing the music mic positions to account for different seat height (or seat back up vs. reclined) or to close in the area covered by the mics because you listen to music alone whereas you usually have a crowd in for movies are both perfectly reasonable. You can also have a different number of mic positions for Movie vs. Music which can be useful if you want to sample a larger area for Movie for example.


By the way, there is nothing different that ARC does either in setting up the solution or in processing during listening for the Movie and Music configurations. They are handled identically. You could reverse the names and they would work precisely the same way. The names are just for convenience in remembering what YOU intended them to be used for.


So instead of thinking of them as Movie vs. Music, you might use them as Movies for a crowd vs. Movies for just 2 people. Perhaps some people will set up a Stereo Music configuration for example, and then also use it when listening to older movies rather than having them processed up into surround sound via PLIIx or whatever. That is, they'll use the solution ARC built for just LF/RF/Sub because they like that better (for stereo listening) than the solution ARC builds when also taking their surround speakers into account. But they also have the "normal" Movie solution (including the surrounds) that they can use whenever they DO want to turn on surround processing for those movies, and for movies that already have multi-channel tracks. Whether you choose to play around with the various possibilities here or just keep things "simple" is entirely up to you.


And if you REALLY wanted to be fancy, and didn't mind a little startup time before you can use your setup, you could build MULTIPLE ARC results files -- each with two configurations -- and Upload the one you want to use that evening about a half hour before you go into the theater!

--Bob


----------



## Michael_V

Well, I changed out my USB adpator to the Keyspan USA-19HS as recommended by Bob and Nick at Anthem but I am still getting the same error message when I try to update the firmware: "OKI FLASH will not enter block un-protected state."


This is my first firmware update, so there is nothing to undo except whatever Anthem sent with the unit.


Upgraded to the AVM50v to use ARC but wondering whether I will ever get to use it!


Any help from the experts???


----------



## Murrayb

Just got my new D2v set up. Upgrade from 2.07 to 2.08 went without any hiccups. Ran arc and everything seems to sound and look fine. A couple of questions.


TV is a Pioneer Elit Pro110FD and can handle 1080p/24. Cable box is a Scientifc Atlanta 8300; and I've set the output to Auto DVI/HDMI. BR player is a Denon 2010ci and I've set the output to Source Direct.


When I set the resolution for Video Out to 1920 x 1080p 24 and (a) run the cable box, the picture doesn't run smoothly, kind of jerky; (b) run a DVD through the BR player, same problem. Run a BR disc and the picture plays correctly. When I change the resolution to 1920 x 1080p 60, and the afore mentioned problems disappear. Am I correct in assuming that the cable box and DVDs simply don't work properly with 1080p/24 and that /60 is the correct setting? Prior to the D2v, I ran the BR player straight into the tv (via HDMI) and had it set to send a 24 signal and it ran fine.


In any case, I've set up a DVD input for DVDs (resolution at /60) and another DVD for BRs (resolution at /24). Was that the correct thing to do?


When I hooked up the Scientific Atlanta via HDMI, every time I turned on the D2v, the cable box begins cycling down numbers for about a minute or two and then reboots itself. Doesn't happen when I hook up a component cable. Is the problem with the HDMI just an incompatibility issue between the Scientific Atlanta and the D2v or is there some setting in either the cable box or the D2v that will fix this problem. I suppose it doesn't matter since the components works equally as well, but would still like to know if I can get the HDMI cable to work.


One final question. With the component cable hooked up from the cable box, when I change stations, it takes about 2 seconds for the picture to appear (a black and sometimes flickering screen in the interim). Is that normal or is there some setting that's off.


Although it's only been up and running for less than a day, I'm very impressed with it. I have a very good stand alone DAC (Blue Circle) and comparing music through the DAC (via analog direct) to music through the D2v (AntehmLogic Music and Stereo). well it's hard to decide what sounds better. Actually leaning towards the D2v. Fun trying to decide.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17582756
> 
> 
> Well, I changed out my USB adpator to the Keyspan USA-19HS as recommended by Bob and Nick at Anthem but I am still getting the same error message when I try to update the firmware: "OKI FLASH will not enter block un-protected state."
> 
> 
> This is my first firmware update, so there is nothing to undo except whatever Anthem sent with the unit.
> 
> 
> Upgraded to the AVM50v to use ARC but wondering whether I will ever get to use it!
> 
> 
> Any help from the experts???



Sure, give Anthem tech support a call tomorrow. They will get you access to a Windows Utility program called the Flash Eraser. It will reset all the programmable parts in your Anthem to the state where they can accept a new install.


The error message you are getting happens sometimes when a prior install attempt failed. The unit has been left in an intermediate state that needs to be cleared before it can accept a new try at the install.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murrayb* /forum/post/17582868
> 
> 
> Just got my new D2v set up. Upgrade from 2.07 to 2.08 went without any hiccups. Ran arc and everything seems to sound and look fine. A couple of questions.
> 
> 
> TV is a Pioneer Elit Pro110FD and can handle 1080p/24. Cable box is a Scientifc Atlanta 8300; and I've set the output to Auto DVI/HDMI. BR player is a Denon 2010ci and I've set the output to Source Direct.
> 
> 
> When I set the resolution for Video Out to 1920 x 1080p 24 and (a) run the cable box, the picture doesn't run smoothly, kind of jerky; (b) run a DVD through the BR player, same problem. Run a BR disc and the picture plays correctly. When I change the resolution to 1920 x 1080p 60, and the afore mentioned problems disappear. Am I correct in assuming that the cable box and DVDs simply don't work properly with 1080p/24 and that /60 is the correct setting? Prior to the D2v, I ran the BR player straight into the tv (via HDMI) and had it set to send a 24 signal and it ran fine.
> 
> 
> In any case, I've set up a DVD input for DVDs (resolution at /60) and another DVD for BRs (resolution at /24). Was that the correct thing to do?
> 
> 
> When I hooked up the Scientific Atlanta via HDMI, every time I turned on the D2v, the cable box begins cycling down numbers for about a minute or two and then reboots itself. Doesn't happen when I hook up a component cable. Is the problem with the HDMI just an incompatibility issue between the Scientific Atlanta and the D2v or is there some setting in either the cable box or the D2v that will fix this problem. I suppose it doesn't matter since the components works equally as well, but would still like to know if I can get the HDMI cable to work.
> 
> 
> One final question. With the component cable hooked up from the cable box, when I change stations, it takes about 2 seconds for the picture to appear (a black and sometimes flickering screen in the interim). Is that normal or is there some setting that's off.
> 
> 
> Although it's only been up and running for less than a day, I'm very impressed with it. I have a very good stand alone DAC (Blue Circle) and comparing music through the DAC (via analog direct) to music through the D2v (AntehmLogic Music and Stereo). well it's hard to decide what sounds better. Actually leaning towards the D2v. Fun trying to decide.



The V2.08 firmware can convert film-based 1080i/60 input to 1080p/24 output. It can not yet convert film-based 480i/60 input to 1080p/24 output.


It can also detect and pass through input that is already 1080p/24.


The way to do these things automaticallly is with Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock = AUTO.


If you want to try converting 1080i/60 HDTV Movie input to 1080p/24 Output using V2.08, the way to do it is as follows:


Set up a 1080p/24 Video Output configuration. You will also need a 1080p/60 Video Output configuration for other Sources.


Set a Source for your 1080i/60 HDTV input and set it to use your 1080p/24 Video Output configuration.


While viewing that Source, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" key) and set Output > Frame Lock = AUTO.


Set this way the D2v will analyze the 1080i/60 video input and attempt to find a /24 movie stream inside it. If it does, it will leave the output at 1080p/24. If it doesn't it will switch the output to 1080p/60.


The same sort of thing will work for 480i/60 movie input from TV or from SD-DVD in a future firmware release. Right now it is not reliable enough to be useful.


For Blu-Ray, movies are already on disc as 1080p/24. Live concert style content is on disc as 1080i/60. Typically Blu-Ray players have an Auto or Source Direct setting which will output the two formats just like that. If you use the same sort of setup for the Blu-Ray player, then Frame Lock will detect the 1080p/24 input when present and leave the output at 1080p/24. If the input is 1080i/60, Frame Lock will discover there is no /24 stream inside it and will switch the output to 1080p/60.


When using Frame Lock = Auto, expect the HDMI handshake to take a little longer.


----------------------------------------------


Component input will take about a second for input signal detection. It's not really a handshake.


Some set top boxes take a little time as well when you switch between SD and HD channels just to get their own, internal act together.


----------------------------------------------


The rebooting problem with the SA-8300 is a known flaw in their hardware implementation of HDMI. (Technically, it has a problem handling the "hot plugging" requirement of HDMI.) There is nothing Anthem can do to fix that, and its not even clear SA can fix it short of issuing new hardware. With that box, the only workaround is to use Component video and Optical Digital audio instead of HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murrayb* /forum/post/17582868
> 
> 
> 
> TV is a Pioneer Elit Pro110FD and can handle 1080p/24. Cable box is a Scientifc Atlanta 8300; and I've set the output to Auto DVI/HDMI. BR player is a Denon 2010ci and I've set the output to Source Direct.
> 
> 
> When I set the resolution for Video Out to 1920 x 1080p 24 and (a) run the cable box, the picture doesn't run smoothly, kind of jerky; (b) run a DVD through the BR player, same problem. Run a BR disc and the picture plays correctly. When I change the resolution to 1920 x 1080p 60, and the afore mentioned problems disappear. Am I correct in assuming that the cable box and DVDs simply don't work properly with 1080p/24 and that /60 is the correct setting? Prior to the D2v, I ran the BR player straight into the tv (via HDMI) and had it set to send a 24 signal and it ran fine.
> 
> 
> In any case, I've set up a DVD input for DVDs (resolution at /60) and another DVD for BRs (resolution at /24). Was that the correct thing to do?



I am running a 151 as a display and I am experiencing judder regardless of my settings. Or I have not really found one that is satisfactory yet. It is set to STANDARD, so if the incoming signal is 60p, it will display 60p. If the incoming signal is 24p, it will display at 72p.


My blueray player is an Oppo set to source direct. My D2v is set to 1080p/24 with frame lock set to auto.


My satellite receiver is a Bell 9242 (equivalent to Dishnet 622). It is set to output 720p/60. My D2v is set to 1080p/60 with frame lock off.


I've tried various settings on each component and still get judder.


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17576417
> 
> 
> It has been confirmed that HDMI Bitstream output of "Star Trek" Blu-Ray on the Oppo BDP-83 produces very occasional and brief audio dropouts (perhaps 2 or 3 over the course of the movie, each a fraction of a second, and never repeatable if you replay the scene) with other AVRs as well.
> 
> 
> So it is not specifically a problem with the D2v or AVM 50v with V2.08 firmware.
> 
> 
> Oppo is aware of the issue and is working on it.
> 
> 
> A workaround is to use HDMI LPCM from the Oppo when playing this disc.
> 
> --Bob



Do you think this may explain why some other DD true HD tracks (blu-rays) I have played also have this drop outs..?










I have never seen the drop outs with DTS HD MA.. Only DD TRue HD..


Thanks..


----------



## LesPaul

Hello Bob,


I have a D2v with version 2.08 firmware installed and a 7.1 surround speaker configuration. What is the best way to get 7.1 surround from 5.1 sources. The tech at Anthem said to use Dolby PLII movie mode vs. any of the THX modes. I had been using THX Ultra2 but since I am using Anthem's room correction it seemed incorrect to use any of the THX modes as it does change the frequencey response of the surround speakers. Is this assumption correct?


Also after trying a few configurations of the room correction parameters I still feel my center channel speaker is too shrill. I have tried setting the upper correction limit at 5Khz, 10KHz and 20Khz and they all have the same issue. I am also one of the people that have a 3 db to 4 db 15KHz dip with all my speakers. They are all B&W's and in doing my measurements I made sure the mike was 4" to 5" above the back of my sofas.


Any help and ideas would be much appreciated.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/17584029
> 
> 
> What is the best way to get 7.1 surround from 5.1 sources. The tech at Anthem said to use Dolby PLII movie mode vs. any of the THX modes.
> 
> Any help and ideas would be much appreciated.



I'm not Bob, but then again who is?









I concur with what Anthem said about 7.1 from 5.1, DPLIIx.


----------



## Nicoff

I'm about to start a project of bi-amping my main (L-R) speakers. The way I have been running my D2, I have let ARC pick crossover frequencies. Right now, ARC picked 115 hertz.

For music only, it is my intention to run the two main fronts plus the two surrounds and the sub; no center speaker. I also want to pick the crossover frequencies for the bass. ARC gives me the option to select the crossover frequency. So after running ARC I am thinking of forcing a low crossover of say, 40 hertz, and letting the main speakers take care of the rest. I am assuming that frequencies 40 and below will flow through the sub output, correct?


Has anyone here done biamping before? Any sugestions or ideas?


Also, when I force ARC to crosover at lower frequency than it chooses, how does that affect the bass going to the surround/rear speakers (I am not sure how much goes there anyway)?


Thanks for your help!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/17584340
> 
> 
> I'm about to start a project of bi-amping my main (L-R) speakers. The way I have been running my D2, I have let ARC pick crossover frequencies. Right now, ARC picked 115 hertz.
> 
> For music only, it is my intention to run the two main fronts plus the two surrounds and the sub; no center speaker. I also want to pick the crossover frequencies for the bass. ARC gives me the option to select the crossover frequency. So after running ARC I am thinking of forcing a low crossover of say, 40 hertz, and letting the main speakers take care of the rest. I am assuming that frequencies 40 and below will flow through the sub output, correct?
> 
> 
> Has anyone here done biamping before? Any sugestions or ideas?
> 
> 
> Also, when I force ARC to crosover at lower frequency than it chooses, how does that affect the bass going to the surround/rear speakers (I am not sure how much goes there anyway)?
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help!



This is complicated stuff. I suggest you post your ARC charts and Targets window showing ARCs choices in your new configuration BEFORE you make any such Targets changes and let folks comment on what might be worth trying.


You can't directly control the sub crossover value in the Targets window. What's in there is the "cutoff" value which defines how far up in frequency ARC assigns resources to correct the sub response. The sub "crossover" as Uploaded into the Setup menu, is often different. And if you fiddle with that after the Upload you risk screwing up the ARC solution.


Fiddling with the cutoff values in Targets is risky as you can't really see from the charts alone everything that is going on in the background.


Keep in mind that if you set up a separate Music configuration with fewer speakers, ARC may very well pick different cutoff/crossover values without you having to do anything.


But to answer your question, if you lower the cutoff for LF/RF (not sub) to 40Hz, then their crossover will follow and they will now be set to handle down to about 20Hz (the crossover spans about an octave) with the sub picking up content from them starting around 40Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/17584029
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> I have a D2v with version 2.08 firmware installed and a 7.1 surround speaker configuration. What is the best way to get 7.1 surround from 5.1 sources. The tech at Anthem said to use Dolby PLII movie mode vs. any of the THX modes. I had been using THX Ultra2 but since I am using Anthem's room correction it seemed incorrect to use any of the THX modes as it does change the frequencey response of the surround speakers. Is this assumption correct?
> 
> 
> Also after trying a few configurations of the room correction parameters I still feel my center channel speaker is too shrill. I have tried setting the upper correction limit at 5Khz, 10KHz and 20Khz and they all have the same issue. I am also one of the people that have a 3 db to 4 db 15KHz dip with all my speakers. They are all B&W's and in doing my measurements I made sure the mike was 4" to 5" above the back of my sofas.
> 
> 
> Any help and ideas would be much appreciated.



The choice of surround modes, and whether or not you want THX post processing turned on, is truly a matter of personal preference.


I used to use the THX post processing as a matter of course prior to ARC. But now, with ARC, I find that I like to leave the THX post processing turned off. EXCEPTION: With a few movies, THX Equalization needs to be turned on. The Anthems allow you to do that even though the rest of the THX post processing is left OFF.


I only have a 5.1 speaker setup so I'm not faced with the choice of how best to raise 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output, but based on my experience with 5.1 speakers, yes, I think just using PLIIx-Movie (or Music) without THX is a good choice if you have ARC set up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/17583629
> 
> 
> Do you think this may explain why some other DD true HD tracks (blu-rays) I have played also have this drop outs..?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have never seen the drop outs with DTS HD MA.. Only DD TRue HD..
> 
> 
> Thanks..



I only know of a problem with this one disc, Star Trek.


If you are having problems with other discs you should post the disc titles and the time codes where you are having problems (if they are repeatable) in the Oppo BDP-83 technical discussions thread to see if other folks are getting the same thing.


For the Oppo, you should be running the 0925 firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've got a report from another user that the V2.08 AL-Cinema problem (i.e., too much dialog in the surrounds) does NOT appear to be happening in his 6.1 speaker setup.


I'd like someone who has tried the 7.1 vs. 5.1 speakers experiment regarding this problem, and who is familiar with what "wrong" sounds like when using 7.1 speakers, to temporarily set their system to 6.1 speakers and see if it can be confirmed that the problem truly is limited to the specific case of 7.1 speakers.


In a 6.1 speaker setup, rear audio will only appear on your Rear Left speaker.


When you go back to 7.1 speakers, double-check that your Rear speaker separation distance (Setup > Listener Position) is still correct as I'm not sure the Setup menu preserves that when you switch to 6.1 speakers. Of course if you just Reload Saved User Settings that is taken care of automatically.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17586694
> 
> 
> I've got a report from another user that the V2.08 AL-Cinema problem (i.e., too much dialog in the surrounds) does NOT appear to be happening in his 6.1 speaker setup.
> 
> 
> I'd like someone who has tried the 7.1 vs. 5.1 speakers experiment regarding this problem, and who is familiar with what "wrong" sounds like when using 7.1 speakers, to temporarily set their system to 6.1 speakers and see if it can be confirmed that the problem truly is limited to the specific case of 7.1 speakers.
> 
> 
> In a 6.1 speaker setup, rear audio will only appear on your Rear Left speaker.
> 
> 
> When you go back to 7.1 speakers, double-check that your Rear speaker separation distance (Setup > Listener Position) is still correct as I'm not sure the Setup menu preserves that when you switch to 6.1 speakers. Of course if you just Reload Saved User Settings that is taken care of automatically.
> 
> --Bob



I just tried it and I find that the problem still persists with 6.1. Mind you it's not so bad, maybe because there is only the one back speaker working.


----------



## studlygoorite

For anyone else trying this switch back and forth between AL Cinema and PLIIx Movie and listen to the difference. Listening to the proper way and the not so proper way will help in noticing the problem. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17587413
> 
> 
> I just tried it and I find that the problem still persists with 6.1. Mind you it's not so bad, maybe because there is only the one back speaker working.



Thanks for the report.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17588077
> 
> 
> For anyone else trying this switch back and forth between AL Cinema and PLIIx Movie and listen to the difference. Listening to the proper way and the not so proper way will help in noticing the problem. Thanks



The two modes have a different way of handling the surrounds, so of course there will be some difference even if everything is working correctly. The key test demonstrating that this is a bug and not just a design difference is the reports that AL-Cinema works better with 5.1 speakers than with 7.1 speakers.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17589182
> 
> 
> The two modes have a different way of handling the surrounds, so of course there will be some difference even if everything is working correctly. The key test demonstrating that this is a bug and not just a design difference is the reports that AL-Cinema works better with 5.1 speakers than with 7.1 speakers.
> 
> --Bob



To explain what "wrong" sounds like, a good way to hear the problem is to compare AL Cinema mode and the PLIIx Movie mode ( AL Cinema used to sound similar to PLIIx Movie). With the PLIIx Movie mode you will hear the main dialog as it should be, up at the front of the sound stage. When you switch to AL Cinema the main dialog will be behind you with a 7.1 system and what I have found with 6.1, the dialog will be too loud from the sides and rear while still being able to hear the fronts somewhat. Switching between the two will aid in noticing the difference. To me it stands out like a sore thumb. It is not just that the surrounds are too high in level, it is that the voices are coming through unimpeded. Thanks, John


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17589590
> 
> 
> To explain what "wrong" sounds like, a good way to hear the problem is to compare AL Cinema mode and the PLIIx Movie mode ( AL Cinema used to sound similar to PLIIx Movie). With the PLIIx Movie mode you will hear the main dialog as it should be, up at the front of the sound stage. When you switch to AL Cinema the main dialog will be behind you with a 7.1 system and what I have found with 6.1, the dialog will be too loud from the sides and rear while still being able to hear the fronts somewhat. Switching between the two will aid in noticing the difference. To me it stands out like a sore thumb. It is not just that the surrounds are too high in level, it is that the voices are coming through unimpeded. Thanks, John



Hi Studly et al,


I concur. When I first heard AL Cinema, it was much to my liking. It used to be that the side and rear channels "seemed" to contribute only certain sounds or certain frequencies. They "complimented" the sound from the mains.


Now, AL Cinema sounds very ugly with the full range of frequencies coming out of the side and rear surrounds. (What we call 7 ch stereo)


I thought perhaps an ARC I did increased the level of my sides and surrounds resulting in this negative effect, but the difference is too great. Furthermore, my surrounds are more efficient than my front channels, so ARC actually decreased them. The issue is a day and night difference, not just a little. The voices eminating from the side and rear channels at near the level of the mains is the most noticeable and distasteful part of whatever has changed.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17586694
> 
> 
> I've got a report from another user that the V2.08 AL-Cinema problem (i.e., too much dialog in the surrounds) does NOT appear to be happening in his 6.1 speaker setup.
> 
> 
> I'd like someone who has tried the 7.1 vs. 5.1 speakers experiment regarding this problem, and who is familiar with what "wrong" sounds like when using 7.1 speakers, to temporarily set their system to 6.1 speakers and see if it can be confirmed that the problem truly is limited to the specific case of 7.1 speakers.
> 
> 
> In a 6.1 speaker setup, rear audio will only appear on your Rear Left speaker.
> 
> 
> When you go back to 7.1 speakers, double-check that your Rear speaker separation distance (Setup > Listener Position) is still correct as I'm not sure the Setup menu preserves that when you switch to 6.1 speakers. Of course if you just Reload Saved User Settings that is taken care of automatically.
> 
> --Bob



Hi All,


Just tested AL Cinema:


7.1: Too much voice from mostly the rears

5.1: This sounds much better - dialog mostly up front

6.1: In between the two above - voice blares out of one rear surround


My conclusion: The signal sent to the rears IS the issue. The sides are actually behaving "complimentary".


Thanks,

Mike


Edit: Distance to Surrounds Rear is still correct after switching back to 7.1 under "Setup > Listener Position" - Thx.


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17586487
> 
> 
> This is complicated stuff. I suggest you post your ARC charts and Targets window showing ARCs choices in your new configuration BEFORE you make any such Targets changes and let folks comment on what might be worth trying.
> 
> 
> You can't directly control the sub crossover value in the Targets window. What's in there is the "cutoff" value which defines how far up in frequency ARC assigns resources to correct the sub response. The sub "crossover" as Uploaded into the Setup menu, is often different. And if you fiddle with that after the Upload you risk screwing up the ARC solution.
> 
> 
> Fiddling with the cutoff values in Targets is risky as you can't really see from the charts alone everything that is going on in the background.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that if you set up a separate Music configuration with fewer speakers, ARC may very well pick different cutoff/crossover values without you having to do anything.
> 
> 
> But to answer your question, if you lower the cutoff for LF/RF (not sub) to 40Hz, then their crossover will follow and they will now be set to handle down to about 20Hz (the crossover spans about an octave) with the sub picking up content from them starting around 40Hz.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Thank you for a very thoughtful response. You wrote:
_"Keep in mind that if you set up a separate Music configuration with fewer speakers, ARC may very well pick different cutoff/crossover values without you having to do anything."_

That thought gave me another idea. Let's say that for my ARC music configuration I choose the four speakers plus the sub, BUT I also adjust the sub internal crossover so that it has a cut off point of say 45 hz or so. When ARC is going through its test tone cycle, it will find that the sub only "works" below whatever frecuency I choose (45hz in my example) and so ARC would then have no choice but to use the other four speakers for frecuencies above that limit. In effect, what I would be doing is setting the crossover frequency to whatever I set the sub internal crossover to. Do you think that might work?


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17586525
> 
> 
> The choice of surround modes, and whether or not you want THX post processing turned on, is truly a matter of personal preference.
> 
> 
> I used to use the THX post processing as a matter of course prior to ARC. But now, with ARC, I find that I like to leave the THX post processing turned off. EXCEPTION: With a few movies, THX Equalization needs to be turned on. The Anthems allow you to do that even though the rest of the THX post processing is left OFF.
> 
> 
> I only have a 5.1 speaker setup so I'm not faced with the choice of how best to raise 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output, but based on my experience with 5.1 speakers, yes, I think just using PLIIx-Movie (or Music) without THX is a good choice if you have ARC set up.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


Thank you for the quick response. Do you have any idea why I am getting the dip in the measured response at 15KHz for all my speakers? Could this be an issue with the calibrated mike or the calibration file?


----------



## muad'dib

I have been noticing jaggies with 1080p material... Especially when you see diagonal lines..


I have the dvdo duo to test with aswell, and found that it did not suffer from this same issue..


Other than this, I do think the anthem has better picture, but curious if in future firmwares this can be reduced..










Has anyone else seen this issue?


----------



## skipperh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17582956
> 
> 
> The V2.08 firmware can convert film-based 1080i/60 input to 1080p/24 output. It can not yet convert film-based 480i/60 input to 1080p/24 output.
> 
> 
> It can also detect and pass through input that is already 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> The way to do these things automaticallly is with Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock = AUTO.
> 
> 
> If you want to try converting 1080i/60 HDTV Movie input to 1080p/24 Output using V2.08, the way to do it is as follows:
> 
> 
> Set up a 1080p/24 Video Output configuration. You will also need a 1080p/60 Video Output configuration for other Sources.
> 
> 
> Set a Source for your 1080i/60 HDTV input and set it to use your 1080p/24 Video Output configuration.
> 
> 
> While viewing that Source, bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" key) and set Output > Frame Lock = AUTO.
> 
> 
> Set this way the D2v will analyze the 1080i/60 video input and attempt to find a /24 movie stream inside it. If it does, it will leave the output at 1080p/24. If it doesn't it will switch the output to 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> The same sort of thing will work for 480i/60 movie input from TV or from SD-DVD in a future firmware release. Right now it is not reliable enough to be useful.
> 
> 
> For Blu-Ray, movies are already on disc as 1080p/24. Live concert style content is on disc as 1080i/60. Typically Blu-Ray players have an Auto or Source Direct setting which will output the two formats just like that. If you use the same sort of setup for the Blu-Ray player, then Frame Lock will detect the 1080p/24 input when present and leave the output at 1080p/24. If the input is 1080i/60, Frame Lock will discover there is no /24 stream inside it and will switch the output to 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> When using Frame Lock = Auto, expect the HDMI handshake to take a little longer.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Component input will take about a second for input signal detection. It's not really a handshake.
> 
> 
> Some set top boxes take a little time as well when you switch between SD and HD channels just to get their own, internal act together.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The rebooting problem with the SA-8300 is a known flaw in their hardware implementation of HDMI. (Technically, it has a problem handling the "hot plugging" requirement of HDMI.) There is nothing Anthem can do to fix that, and its not even clear SA can fix it short of issuing new hardware. With that box, the only workaround is to use Component video and Optical Digital audio instead of HDMI.
> 
> --Bob



Does this apply to a D2 as well as the D2v? I.E. it will pass through /24?


----------



## seang86s

Did Anthem ever officially start this? I can't find any info on this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seang86s* /forum/post/17594651
> 
> 
> Did Anthem ever officially start this? I can't find any info on this.



Yes, but it is a trade-in program, not an upgrade. Your dealer should have the details. Or give Anthem a call. It is not cheap.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *skipperh* /forum/post/17594391
> 
> 
> Does this apply to a D2 as well as the D2v? I.E. it will pass through /24?



Yes the D2 will pass through 1080p/24 from Blu-Ray players.


However it will not convert 1080i/60 or 480i/60 to 1080p/24.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/17592112
> 
> 
> I have been noticing jaggies with 1080p material... Especially when you see diagonal lines..
> 
> 
> I have the dvdo duo to test with aswell, and found that it did not suffer from this same issue..
> 
> 
> Other than this, I do think the anthem has better picture, but curious if in future firmwares this can be reduced..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else seen this issue?



It sounds like there is something wrong in your setup for the Anthem.


What source are you using for comparison vs. the DVDO? What video are you sending to the Anthem and what are you sending to the DVDO? What video output from each? Are you sure you are using identical video in and out in both cases? What's your setting in the Anthem for Setup > Picture > Film Mode when doing this?


Is the source content 1080p or have you had the source raise it up to 1080p from something else?


There is no de-interlacing going on when viewing 1080p source content, unless you've forced it to happen by screwing up your video settings. So there's no way for jaggies to be added. Of course if they are present in the content to begin with, then they will be preserved.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/17590891
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Thank you for the quick response. Do you have any idea why I am getting the dip in the measured response at 15KHz for all my speakers? Could this be an issue with the calibrated mike or the calibration file?



Post your ARC charts and Targets window so folks can take a look.


One common source of problems in treble is speaker pointing -- particularly in the vertical direction if the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height.


We've also had numerous reports here of folks having treble problems due to speaker grill material or the hardware used to mount the grill.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34

Maybe someone can help me out on the settings and whether or not it can be done. I have a hometheater pc that I use for movies in my basement. I also use the same pc to watch movies on my upstairs tv for zone 2. My question is my speaker system uses analog and I am wondering can I output in analog to zone 2 by using my digital optical input signal from my pc? if so how do I set this up?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/17590266
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thank you for a very thoughtful response. You wrote:
> _"Keep in mind that if you set up a separate Music configuration with fewer speakers, ARC may very well pick different cutoff/crossover values without you having to do anything."_
> 
> That thought gave me another idea. Let's say that for my ARC music configuration I choose the four speakers plus the sub, BUT I also adjust the sub internal crossover so that it has a cut off point of say 45 hz or so. When ARC is going through its test tone cycle, it will find that the sub only "works" below whatever frecuency I choose (45hz in my example) and so ARC would then have no choice but to use the other four speakers for frecuencies above that limit. In effect, what I would be doing is setting the crossover frequency to whatever I set the sub internal crossover to. Do you think that might work?



I think you are making this way too complicated.


Apparently you want your fronts to operate lower down than ARC has chosen, but NOT to operate as "Full Range". You can force this by altering the cutoff for the fronts. You shouldn't have to change anything for the sub. It doesn't matter that ARC is preserving higher frequencies for the sub because if you lower the cutoff for the fronts those frequencies from the fronts won't be sent to the sub in the first place.


Now, whether it is a good idea to do this is another matter.


A good start would be to post your ARC charts and Targets window WITHOUT making any changes to what ARC has chosen, and then folks can see what your speakers are actually doing and discuss what might make sense.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17594960
> 
> 
> Maybe someone can help me out on the settings and whether or not it can be done. I have a hometheater pc that I use for movies in my basement. I also use the same pc to watch movies on my upstairs tv for zone 2. My question is my speaker system uses analog and I am wondering can I output in analog to zone 2 by using my digital optical input signal from my pc? if so how do I set this up?



You can get a stereo down-mix (only) of that digital optical input sent out as stereo analog to Zone 2 by setting Copy Main to Zone 2 and then selecting your PC as the Source for Main.


Only the Main path can process digital audio, so that's the only way to get a digital audio input out to to Zone 2.


You can set Copying to happen all the time in the Setup menu or you can do it on the fly as you need it using the remote.


-----------------------------------------


The alternative is to hook up stereo analog from your PC as well as your digital audio. Then Main will process the digital audio, and Zone 2 will pass through the analog audio. (Both are entered into the Source definition for that Source.) The Zone 2 source can then be selected separately.

--Bob


----------



## dseliger

I did a few searches and couldn't find any information so i thought I'd just post.


I have a D2v, connected to my primary projector.


If i connect the secondary HDMI out to Plasma in another room, will it carry any audio in addition to the video to that screen?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/17595632
> 
> 
> I did a few searches and couldn't find any information so i thought I'd just post.
> 
> 
> I have a D2v, connected to my primary projector.
> 
> 
> If i connect the secondary HDMI out to Plasma in another room, will it carry any audio in addition to the video to that screen?



It's supposed to carry a stereo downmix (2.0 LPCM 48KHz) of whatever is selected on the Main path -- just as HDMI 1 does.


There were a few bugs early on that prevented that from happening with certain displays, but I believe those are fixed by now.


The on-screen displays will only show on the HDMI 1 output.

--Bob


----------



## aramb

Any word on when Anthem plans to make ARC and the firmware upgrade process compatible with the Windows 7 OS?


AramB


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17597199
> 
> 
> Any word on when Anthem plans to make ARC and the firmware upgrade process compatible with the Windows 7 OS?
> 
> 
> AramB



Already done. ARC V2.4 and the current official firmware for each unit.

--Bob


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17594946
> 
> 
> Post your ARC charts and Targets window so folks can take a look.
> 
> 
> One common source of problems in treble is speaker pointing -- particularly in the vertical direction if the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height.
> 
> 
> We've also had numerous reports here of folks having treble problems due to speaker grill material or the hardware used to mount the grill.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


What is the best way to post these? Could I just include the entire file?


Thanks again!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/17597677
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> What is the best way to post these? Could I just include the entire file?
> 
> 
> Thanks again!



No, the ARC data file is not a file format you can post here. You can email it, but that doesn't help to get it posted here.


Look in Windows Help for the key combo for Screen Capture Active Window -- which puts the currently visible portion of your active application window in the clipboard. You can't get all the ARC charts visible at once so scroll up and down to capture the top and bottom portions of the charts window. Use the View menu item in ARC to select whether your Movie or Music charts are showing. Capture the top and bottom scrolling of your ARC charts window for Movie and for Music and also your Targets window -- 5 pictures in all. One way to proceed is to paste each in turn into Windows Paint (bundled with Windows) and then Save As using JPEG file format. The resulting 5 image files can be uploaded to AVS as part of your post using the Attach Files feature found below the box where you type in your post. They will appear as links at the end of your post. Use the Preview button to see that all is working before you Submit your post. The images are kept here on AVS so you don't need them on your computer after making the post.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17594937
> 
> 
> It sounds like there is something wrong in your setup for the Anthem.
> 
> 
> What source are you using for comparison vs. the DVDO? What video are you sending to the Anthem and what are you sending to the DVDO? What video output from each? Are you sure you are using identical video in and out in both cases? What's your setting in the Anthem for Setup > Picture > Film Mode when doing this?
> 
> 
> Is the source content 1080p or have you had the source raise it up to 1080p from something else?
> 
> 
> There is no de-interlacing going on when viewing 1080p source content, unless you've forced it to happen by screwing up your video settings. So there's no way for jaggies to be added. Of course if they are present in the content to begin with, then they will be preserved.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob..



One of the blu-ray's I tried was 28 weeks later.. There is a great scene near the beginning of the movie where the camera pans over buildings, etc..


From these shots, you can see jaggies..


The duo was cleaner on these scenes..


I was sending a 1080p/24 signal for both.. Anthem was set to 1080p/24 out in config menu, and Duo was set to 1:1 frame mode..


Everything seem ok on anthem settings wise, however, must check the film mode you talked about..


I did not change any of the default settings..


I emailed Nick also, that, the Anthem does not seem to be sending Deep Colour to my projector now.. I have the Epson 7500UB projector..


With the Duo, the projecter is getting the deep colour ..


I know for certain that the anthem in past firmwares was also sending the deep colour..










Very strange...


----------



## randman

It's been about 2 years since my last post in this thread, and I'm glad this thread is going strong! Nice to see familiar names in recent postings, although trying to catch up in the postings I've missed is very challenging (so many pages in this thread!).


Anyway, I currently have an Anthem D2 and I'm considering upgrading to a D2v. First of all, there's no rumors for a newer processor coming out in the near future right (like a D3)?


I use a Velodyne SMS-1 with my D2. I don't have ARC with my D2. If I get a D2v, I assume I no longer need to use the SMS-1, right? Seems that SMS-1 with ARC just overcomplicates things. An old posting by Bob P. hinted that the only reason to keep an SMS-1 with the D2v is for phase control. Other than that, can the D2v's ARC pretty much do what the SMS-1 does?


This leads me to my next question... I have an old Paradigm Servo-15 sub. All my other speakers are Paradigm Signature speakers (S8 L/R, C5 center, ADP sides, S2 rears). I was looking into replacing the Servo-15 sub. A while back, I was considering the Velodyne subs with built-in EQ. I assume their advantages are decreased now that we have ARC. I suppose that opens up the possibility of getting the matching Paradigm Signature sub?


Thanks, and good to be back after a long absence.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/17598528
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob..
> 
> 
> 
> One of the blu-ray's I tried was 28 weeks later.. There is a great scene near the beginning of the movie where the camera pans over buildings, etc..
> 
> 
> From these shots, you can see jaggies..
> 
> 
> The duo was cleaner on these scenes..
> 
> 
> I was sending a 1080p/24 signal for both.. Anthem was set to 1080p/24 out in config menu, and Duo was set to 1:1 frame mode..
> 
> 
> Everything seem ok on anthem settings wise, however, must check the film mode you talked about..
> 
> 
> I did not change any of the default settings..
> 
> 
> I emailed Nick also, that, the Anthem does not seem to be sending Deep Colour to my projector now.. I have the Epson 7500UB projector..
> 
> 
> With the Duo, the projecter is getting the deep colour ..
> 
> 
> I know for certain that the anthem in past firmwares was also sending the deep colour..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very strange...



There's something screwy going on with your setup. I don't know what. The D2v sends out the Deep Color bit depth that your display says it will accept on that input. Check that you haven't done something weird in the settings controlling that input in your display.


I asked you to report what the D2v was seeing as input as well as what it was sending out as output. I say again, if the input is 1080p/24 -- identical to what's coming off disc from a blu-ray -- there is no way that 1080p/24 output from the D2v can generate de-interlacing jaggies because no de-interlacing is happening. So that can't be what you've actually set up.


You need to take a step back and rethink everything about your video path through the D2v: The disc you are playing and the choices you have made in its menus, source device settings, D2v settings, and display settings for that input from the D2v. Something is screwed up. It is probably something simple.


As a first step, simplify your situation by not trying to use 1080p/24. Use 1080p/60 and only go back to 1080p/24 when you have your Deep Color and jaggies problems resolved.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/17598726
> 
> 
> It's been about 2 years since my last post in this thread, and I'm glad this thread is going strong! Nice to see familiar names in recent postings, although trying to catch up in the postings I've missed is very challenging (so many pages in this thread!).
> 
> 
> Anyway, I currently have an Anthem D2 and I'm considering upgrading to a D2v. First of all, there's no rumors for a newer processor coming out in the near future right (like a D3)?
> 
> 
> I use a Velodyne SMS-1 with my D2. I don't have ARC with my D2. If I get a D2v, I assume I no longer need to use the SMS-1, right? Seems that SMS-1 with ARC just overcomplicates things. An old posting by Bob P. hinted that the only reason to keep an SMS-1 with the D2v is for phase control. Other than that, can the D2v's ARC pretty much do what the SMS-1 does?
> 
> 
> This leads me to my next question... I have an old Paradigm Servo-15 sub. All my other speakers are Paradigm Signature speakers (S8 L/R, C5 center, ADP sides, S2 rears). I was looking into replacing the Servo-15 sub. A while back, I was considering the Velodyne subs with built-in EQ. I assume their advantages are decreased now that we have ARC. I suppose that opens up the possibility of getting the matching Paradigm Signature sub?
> 
> 
> Thanks, and good to be back after a long absence.



There is no D3 on the radar. The rumors a few months back turned out to be unfounded.


As far as subwoofer audio, in general you want to have as few processing steps as possible. So even if your sub offers some EQ tools, the first step is to see if ARC comes up with a clean solution with all the sub's tools disabled. If so, then you are done. If not, then you can use the sub's tools to refine the sub output, and then re-Measure for ARC with the sub's tools engaged.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17599022
> 
> 
> I asked you to report what the D2v was seeing as input as well as what it was sending out as output. I say again, if the input is 1080p/24 -- identical to what's coming off disc from a blu-ray -- there is no way that 1080p/24 output from the D2v can generate de-interlacing jaggies because no de-interlacing is happening. So that can't be what you've actually set up.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks again..










As for input vs output..


Anthem states that a 1080p/24 input, and is sending 1080p/24 out..


My projector also confirms that a 24hz signal is being inputted..


I just tried Star Trek 2009, and that seemed to look good, maybe 28 weeks later is more noisy, and the anthem picks that up more than the Dvdo Duo..



As for the deep colour.. As I stated, in previous firmwares, the anthem did indeed send deep colour..


Since these firmwares, no settings were changed different.. Alway tell anthem to use same settings for video outs..


Eitherway, picture is awesome..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Are you sure you are playing the Blu-Ray feature and not some SD (480i) content off that disc?


Seriously, even a true de-interlacing failure for 1080i content will be tough to see because the resolution is already so high (i.e., the jaggies are tiny). If you are easily seeing jaggies then something is flat out wrong in your setup or they are already in the content on the disc.


--------------------------------------


As for Deep Color, try this:


Select a D2v input Source that has nothing connected for video input. Bring up the Video Source Adjust menu and go to the Patterns panel. Display any of the test bar patterns.


Does your display still say it is not receiving Deep Color bit depth?


If so, report the settings you are using in the Video Output Configuration assigned to that unconnected Source definition.


Also bring up the Info panel in Video Source Adjust and report what it says it has for video input (should be none) and video output.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17599124
> 
> 
> Are you sure you are playing the Blu-Ray feature and not some SD (480i) content off that disc?
> 
> 
> Seriously, even a true de-interlacing failure for 1080i content will be tough to see because the resolution is already so high (i.e., the jaggies are tiny). If you are easily seeing jaggies then something is flat out wrong in your setup or they are already in the content on the disc.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> As for Deep Color, try this:
> 
> 
> Select a D2v input Source that has nothing connected for video input. Bring up the Video Source Adjust menu and go to the Patterns panel. Display any of the test bar patterns.
> 
> 
> Does your display still say it is not receiving Deep Color bit depth?
> 
> 
> If so, report the settings you are using in the Video Output Configuration assigned to that unconnected Source definition.
> 
> 
> Also bring up the Info panel in Video Source Adjust and report what it says it has for video input (should be none) and video output.
> 
> --Bob



Cool.. will give this a try tomorrow.. Hope it works...


Thanks..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If you have multiple video connections from the D2v to your display (S-video or Component in addition to HDMI), make sure your display is actually set to use its HDMI input from the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17594946
> 
> 
> Post your ARC charts and Targets window so folks can take a look.
> 
> 
> One common source of problems in treble is speaker pointing -- particularly in the vertical direction if the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height.
> 
> 
> We've also had numerous reports here of folks having treble problems due to speaker grill material or the hardware used to mount the grill.
> 
> --Bob



I'm wondering if LesPaul has B&W 800 series speakers. All 5 of mine have the 5db dip at 15KHz. I've ruled out speaker pointing for the problem. I'm hesitant to remove the grills on the delicate tweeters. In any case, having ARC correct the problem makes them sound shrill to me.


----------



## LesPaul

Hi CharlieU,


Yes I do they are CDM9-NT's in the fornt and CDM series for the surrounds and I upgraded to a HTM3 for the center. I will be including picutres of my room correction curves in another post. I have set my cut of for 10Khz and also have made sure that the mike is set to the proper height. I even tried different heights and had similar results.


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17597761
> 
> 
> No, the ARC data file is not a file format you can post here. You can email it, but that doesn't help to get it posted here.
> 
> 
> Look in Windows Help for the key combo for Screen Capture Active Window -- which puts the currently visible portion of your active application window in the clipboard. You can't get all the ARC charts visible at once so scroll up and down to capture the top and bottom portions of the charts window. Use the View menu item in ARC to select whether your Movie or Music charts are showing. Capture the top and bottom scrolling of your ARC charts window for Movie and for Music and also your Targets window -- 5 pictures in all. One way to proceed is to paste each in turn into Windows Paint (bundled with Windows) and then Save As using JPEG file format. The resulting 5 image files can be uploaded to AVS as part of your post using the Attach Files feature found below the box where you type in your post. They will appear as links at the end of your post. Use the Preview button to see that all is working before you Submit your post. The images are kept here on AVS so you don't need them on your computer after making the post.
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob,


I have attached my room correction information below. For now I am using the same settings for music and movies. I have also changed the room gain from 1.1 to 2 as the bass was a little weak. Thanks again for your help.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/17598726
> 
> 
> It's been about 2 years since my last post in this thread, and I'm glad this thread is going strong! Nice to see familiar names in recent postings, although trying to catch up in the postings I've missed is very challenging (so many pages in this thread!).
> 
> 
> Anyway, I currently have an Anthem D2 and I'm considering upgrading to a D2v. First of all, there's no rumors for a newer processor coming out in the near future right (like a D3)?
> 
> 
> I use a Velodyne SMS-1 with my D2. I don't have ARC with my D2. If I get a D2v, I assume I no longer need to use the SMS-1, right? Seems that SMS-1 with ARC just overcomplicates things. An old posting by Bob P. hinted that the only reason to keep an SMS-1 with the D2v is for phase control. Other than that, can the D2v's ARC pretty much do what the SMS-1 does?
> 
> 
> This leads me to my next question... I have an old Paradigm Servo-15 sub. All my other speakers are Paradigm Signature speakers (S8 L/R, C5 center, ADP sides, S2 rears). I was looking into replacing the Servo-15 sub. A while back, I was considering the Velodyne subs with built-in EQ. I assume their advantages are decreased now that we have ARC. I suppose that opens up the possibility of getting the matching Paradigm Signature sub?
> 
> 
> Thanks, and good to be back after a long absence.




randman,


Which ever way you go with the sub can you post please as I have the same as you (S8s,C5,ADPs and Servo 15 plus 2 mini monitors for the sides) and was also wanting to upgrade my sub. Thanks, John


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/17599957
> 
> 
> Hi CharlieU,
> 
> 
> Yes I do they are CDM9-NT's in the fornt and CDM series for the surrounds and I upgraded to a HTM3 for the center. I will be including picutres of my room correction curves in another post. I have set my cut of for 10Khz and also have made sure that the mike is set to the proper height. I even tried different heights and had similar results.



Your measured curves look like mine with the dip at 2.5K and the plunge at 15K. Maybe that's the B&W sound that I read about prior to buying mine. I'm running 804s front, HTM3s center and 805s for surrounds. As I mentioned before, correcting the 15K dip really put an awful "edge" on the sound. Something that I couldn't listen to for long. I may try correcting it and adding THX processing to roll off the highs.


Your levels are a little high. Mine are about 81db which fits with the discovered problem of ARC running about 6db high from the 75db measured with the Radio Shack meter. I'm going to do another ARC run with my levels adjusted down to see what the results are. I'll pull the tweeter grills to see if it makes any difference too.


Charlie


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU* /forum/post/17601431
> 
> 
> Your measured curves look like mine with the dip at 2.5K and the plunge at 15K. Maybe that's the B&W sound that I read about prior to buying mine. I'm running 804s front, HTM3s center and 805s for surrounds. As I mentioned before, correcting the 15K dip really put an awful "edge" on the sound. Something that I couldn't listen to for long. I may try correcting it and adding THX processing to roll off the highs.



If my speculation is right, that 15 kHz dip is in the mic response, so "correcting" it actually adds a boost to the playback that you don't need or want. Best to limit the ARC to


----------



## perioms

Here are my Arc-results. Because I don`t need the hump at 200Hz, I changed the targets. Do You think, that`s correct? Thanks for help.


----------



## perioms

Here are the changed results.


----------



## MK4

Having a D2 HDCP issue (I think







)


Just moved and got a new setup and am having the problem.


Problem:

All audio passes through to speakers (D2 hooked up to a P5) from any input but no video. I've tried all resolutions, component, hdmi, composite out and get nothing. I can have multiple sources connected different ways and switch between DVD SAT AUX, etc. and still get only audio. Status shows No Input for Video and Audio varies depending on the device.



D2 setup screen will show only at 480i. Anything higher will cause the connection to black out in about 30 seconds (via component or hdmi).


Turning on the same source gets me the green screen a few times and pink screens and snow/static screens. All random. I've tried turning on in reverse order (tv, d2, source) but it doesn't help.


Blu-ray, xbox360, etc. all work fine directly with TV.


Used to use a panasonic 720p projector via hdmi just fine (version 1.33 and would have to switch sources to get the HDCP handshake to kick in), moved and got a newer Sony Bravia 1080p set and another 1080p tv both HDCP compliant and started having this issue with both.


Hopefully I'm just braindead and forgot to update some simple setting but after trying to find it for hours I've given up to go eat some turkey.


Thanks in advance for the help.


----------



## gdc

I have the B&W XT series - somewhat similar to the 700/800 series.


I have a substantial measured null at around 13 KHz in all speakers except the sub.


My results:


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" D2v / AVM 50v Firmware V2.08(20nov09) now on Password Protected Download Page*


New "test firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v has appeared on Anthem's password protected download page today. This has the unusual naming of "V2.08(20nov09)", which among other things probably means it will still identify itself as V2.08 when installed.


The change notes for this version, for changes since the current, "official" version, V2.08(5nov09), read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.08 (20nov):
> 
> 
> 1. Improved HDMI switching aimed at certain cable/sat receivers with native output.



I presume they put this up so certain people having this problem can test with it and report back to them. If you are not in that group, there's probably no good reason to install this version.


Please note, I have no reason to believe this version contains any changes to the installer to cure the problem faced by some folks resulting in failure of the video board to program.


Nor do I think it contains fixes for any of the pending audio problems, such as the AL-Cinema problem for 7.1 speaker setups, or the problem with certain 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks getting seen as only 5.1, or the problem where the Mode Preset for 2.0 input sometimes doesn't get properly applied.

--Bob


----------



## programmergeek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman* /forum/post/17598726
> 
> 
> It's been about 2 years since my last post in this thread, and I'm glad this thread is going strong! Nice to see familiar names in recent postings, although trying to catch up in the postings I've missed is very challenging (so many pages in this thread!).
> 
> 
> Anyway, I currently have an Anthem D2 and I'm considering upgrading to a D2v. First of all, there's no rumors for a newer processor coming out in the near future right (like a D3)?
> 
> 
> I use a Velodyne SMS-1 with my D2. I don't have ARC with my D2. If I get a D2v, I assume I no longer need to use the SMS-1, right? Seems that SMS-1 with ARC just overcomplicates things. An old posting by Bob P. hinted that the only reason to keep an SMS-1 with the D2v is for phase control. Other than that, can the D2v's ARC pretty much do what the SMS-1 does?
> 
> 
> This leads me to my next question... I have an old Paradigm Servo-15 sub. All my other speakers are Paradigm Signature speakers (S8 L/R, C5 center, ADP sides, S2 rears). I was looking into replacing the Servo-15 sub. A while back, I was considering the Velodyne subs with built-in EQ. I assume their advantages are decreased now that we have ARC. I suppose that opens up the possibility of getting the matching Paradigm Signature sub?
> 
> 
> Thanks, and good to be back after a long absence.



I use a sms1 with my d2v for a couple of reasons,

1. presets and modes

2. I think it contors the base at more points than the d2v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17602160
> 
> 
> I have the B&W XT series - somewhat similar to the 700/800 series.
> 
> 
> I have a substantial measured null at around 13 KHz in all speakers except the sub.
> 
> 
> My results:



That doesn't look very good. The peak at 11KHz is perhaps more disturbing to me. You've also got rather a lot of residual error left for a 5KHz solution. I'm not quite sure why. The residual error in your sub is particularly puzzling.


Are you using ARC V2.3 or V2.4? And are you up to date on your Anthem firmware?


Your front speakers Measure pretty hot between 40 and 120Hz. Moving them somewhat further out from the wall might help reduce that.


ARC has found nearly 4dB of Room Gain. And from the fronts, rears, and sub that looks correct, although for some reason the sides aren't showing that. But it shouldn't be diverting that much of its resources to preserving that, so I'm not sure why it is having trouble smoothing out the Measured wobbles for the sub.


---------------------------------------------


Start with the basics and revisit the instructions for ARC mic placement.


If you don't spot something there you might have done incorrectly, then play around with reducing Room Gain up to a couple dB and also try shifting Max EQ Frequency around. You may be on a boundary case where ARC is misapplying resources higher in frequency and shifting Max EQ Frequency could get it back where it should be. What you are looking for is a smoother solution for sub to start.


Given that you don't have ARC correcting the higher frequencies, how does it sound to you up there?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MK4* /forum/post/17602012
> 
> 
> Having a D2 HDCP issue (I think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Just moved and got a new setup and am having the problem.
> 
> 
> Problem:
> 
> All audio passes through to speakers (D2 hooked up to a P5) from any input but no video. I've tried all resolutions, component, hdmi, composite out and get nothing. I can have multiple sources connected different ways and switch between DVD SAT AUX, etc. and still get only audio. Status shows No Input for Video and Audio varies depending on the device.
> 
> 
> 
> D2 setup screen will show only at 480i. Anything higher will cause the connection to black out in about 30 seconds (via component or hdmi).
> 
> 
> Turning on the same source gets me the green screen a few times and pink screens and snow/static screens. All random. I've tried turning on in reverse order (tv, d2, source) but it doesn't help.
> 
> 
> Blu-ray, xbox360, etc. all work fine directly with TV.
> 
> 
> Used to use a panasonic 720p projector via hdmi just fine (version 1.33 and would have to switch sources to get the HDCP handshake to kick in), moved and got a newer Sony Bravia 1080p set and another 1080p tv both HDCP compliant and started having this issue with both.
> 
> 
> Hopefully I'm just braindead and forgot to update some simple setting but after trying to find it for hours I've given up to go eat some turkey.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help.



Are you saying you have TWO 1080p TVs hooked up at the same time to your D2 (through some sort of splitter)? If so, try using only one TV.


----------------------------------------------


If not, go back to basics and concentrate on getting the output side of the video working. Power off your input sources.


Start by Reloading Factory Defaults (you can preserve your settings in Saved User and/or Installer Settings). The HDMI output will default to 720p.


Try to bring up the Setup menu. If that doesn't work, double check your HDMI connections. The plugs are only a friction fit and even a slight shift in the socket will screw up the connection. Make sure they are fully inserted straight into the socket without being pushed or tugged in any direction by the weight of the cable or whatever.


Make sure you have the correct input selected in your display.


If still no video, try the alternate setting for HDMI Sync. If no change, put that back and try changing Data from Auto to YCbCr 4:4:4.


If still no video try a different HDMI cable to the display. While you have the cable unplugged, get a flashlight and check the plugs and sockets on each end for signs of pin damage.


If still no video, give Anthem tech support a call. They will likely ask you to reinstall the V1.33 firmware on top of itself "just in case".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17601681
> 
> 
> Here are the changed results.



In your "changed" results did you manually raise the cutoffs for the speakers as well, they are different in the 2 Target windows you posted.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17601661
> 
> 
> Here are my Arc-results. Because I don`t need the hump at 200Hz, I changed the targets. Do You think, that`s correct? Thanks for help.



I'm amazed you ARC solution looks as good as it does.


Your front speakers (in particular) are incredibly hot in bass. There's over a 20dB swing between 30Hz and 250Hz. Do they have powered woofers which might be set incorrectly?


Your sides are also hot in bass, although not quite so dramatically.


Your rears and centers don't show that excessive bass, but they've still got dramatic response swings through the bass region which is giving ARC fits. In your "changed" solution, the higher cutoffs roll off the speakers even sooner thus avoiding that region rather than trying to correct it. Fortunately your sub has excellent extension further up so it can cover for them.


It looks like you have a pretty stubborn room cancellation null that is showing at 40Hz and again at 80Hz and 120Hz. It is not coincidence these are multiples. You may need to add some bass traps.


The bass traps might help mellow out the bass peaks you are getting in fronts and sides as well.


2.8dB of Room Gain (as in the original solution) is perfectly reasonable.


-------------------------------------------------


I think your next step here is to first double check the bass configuration for you fronts. Something wacky is going on there.


And I suspect you will need to put in bass traps in the front corners, on the front wall, and on the side walls at first reflection points. Right now ARC is doing a ton of correction, and it is pulling things in, but this is a room that cries out for room treatment so that ARC doesn't have to fight the room so hard.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/17600014
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> I have attached my room correction information below. For now I am using the same settings for music and movies. I have also changed the room gain from 1.1 to 2 as the bass was a little weak. Thanks again for your help.



These charts look fine except that your basic volume level is too high.


Prior to your next Measurement pass, lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level by 10dB. This will lower the volume of the ARC sweep tones and also the basic volume level of the resulting solution.


You mentioned in a previous post that your Center was shrill regardless of raising or lowering Max EQ Frequency. There is nothing in the charts that would explain that. As is (10KHz) ARC is not correcting the highest frequencies, but even if you raised it your Center is Measuring up there similarly to your other speakers -- i.e., not much to even try to correct and no indication that it might be peaking without ARC picking up on that.


So try a few things first:


1) Remove any temporary audio adjustments you may have made using the remote. To remove all of them at once:


* Save User Settings

* Reload Factory Defaults (continue using the front panel display if you lose video)

* Reload Saved User Settings.


-----------------------------------------


2) Swap LF and Center at the amp outputs. The imaging will be wrong of course, and the bass will also be a bit out since these two speakers needed different correction down there, but try to listen past that and see if the shrillness moves to LF. If it does, then the problem may be in your amp channel.


To confirm, swap the INPUTS to the amp for LF and C as well. If the problem stays in LF then it is definitely the amp channel.


----------------------------------------


3) In Setup > Source Setup for a Source turn Room EQ = OFF. This disables the ARC room correction processing when listening to that Source. The volume trims and crossovers remain in effect. If the shrillness in Center persists you know that ARC is not producing it. It may be that ARC is not finding it and correcting it, but it is not producing it.


While you are in there make sure that the EQ adjustment values in the Source definition are both still at 0dB.


I see no signs in the charts that Center has a faulty tweeter, but that can't be discounted completely.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17602730
> 
> 
> That doesn't look very good. The peak at 11KHz is perhaps more disturbing to me. You've also got rather a lot of residual error left for a 5KHz solution. I'm not quite sure why. The residual error in your sub is particularly puzzling.



I'm surprised at how peaky the measured response is. I'm thinking a lot is room coupling issues, but the 11K peak and 13K null are far too high to be conventional room response.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17602730
> 
> 
> Are you using ARC V2.3 or V2.4? And are you up to date on your Anthem firmware?



Using 2.4, although 2.3 works fine with my laptop. D2 firmware is 1.33. I don't dare update to 1.47 since I have an OLD D2.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17602730
> 
> 
> Your front speakers Measure pretty hot between 40 and 120Hz. Moving them somewhat further out from the wall might help reduce that.



Good idea, will try that, although they are not in the corners much.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17602730
> 
> 
> ARC has found nearly 4dB of Room Gain. And from the fronts, rears, and sub that looks correct, although for some reason the sides aren't showing that. But it shouldn't be diverting that much of its resources to preserving that, so I'm not sure why it is having trouble smoothing out the Measured wobbles for the sub.



I may try moving the sub to see if it is a location issue. But the current spot has worked the best for quite awhile.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17602730
> 
> 
> Given that you don't have ARC correcting the higher frequencies, how does it sound to you up there?
> 
> --Bob



It sounds better than when I raised the target to 20K, but I think I may try 10K as a compromise. At 20K it seemed to be overdoing it and everything had a 'tizzy' quality.


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17603082
> 
> 
> These charts look fine except that your basic volume level is too high.
> 
> 
> Prior to your next Measurement pass, lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level by 10dB. This will lower the volume of the ARC sweep tones and also the basic volume level of the resulting solution.
> 
> 
> You mentioned in a previous post that your Center was shrill regardless of raising or lowering Max EQ Frequency. There is nothing in the charts that would explain that. As is (10KHz) ARC is not correcting the highest frequencies, but even if you raised it your Center is Measuring up there similarly to your other speakers -- i.e., not much to even try to correct and no indication that it might be peaking without ARC picking up on that.
> 
> 
> So try a few things first:
> 
> 
> 1) Remove any temporary audio adjustments you may have made using the remote. To remove all of them at once:
> 
> 
> * Save User Settings
> 
> * Reload Factory Defaults (continue using the front panel display if you lose video)
> 
> * Reload Saved User Settings.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 2) Swap LF and Center at the amp outputs. The imaging will be wrong of course, and the bass will also be a bit out since these two speakers needed different correction down there, but try to listen past that and see if the shrillness moves to LF. If it does, then the problem may be in your amp channel.
> 
> 
> To confirm, swap the INPUTS to the amp for LF and C as well. If the problem stays in LF then it is definitely the amp channel.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 3) In Setup > Source Setup for a Source turn Room EQ = OFF. This disables the ARC room correction processing when listening to that Source. The volume trims and crossovers remain in effect. If the shrillness in Center persists you know that ARC is not producing it. It may be that ARC is not finding it and correcting it, but it is not producing it.
> 
> 
> While you are in there make sure that the EQ adjustment values in the Source definition are both still at 0dB.
> 
> 
> I see no signs in the charts that Center has a faulty tweeter, but that can't be discounted completely.
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob,


Thanks you for your very complete answer. I did measure the level of the test signals with my db meeting and it seemed to measure around 75db from where I was sitting. I will recheck this measurement. I will give these things a try and report back on my success.


LesPaul


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/17603415
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks you for your very complete answer. I did measure the level of the test signals with my db meeting and it seemed to measure around 75db from where I was sitting. I will recheck this measurement. I will give these things a try and report back on my success.
> 
> 
> LesPaul



I believe 6dB of this is just a bug in the way ARC is using the Test Level setting. The other 4dB may simply be in how you are using the SPL meter. In any event, the ARC charts show what ARC is producing for reference level audio input (with output levels corresponding to what you'll get with a -10dB setting for Main Volume during normal listening).

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17602196
> 
> *New "Test" D2v / AVM 50v Firmware V2.08(20nov09) now on Password Protected Download Page*
> 
> 
> New "test firmware for the D2v and AVM 50v has appeared on Anthem's password protected download page today. This has the unusual naming of "V2.08(20nov09)", which among other things probably means it will still identify itself as V2.08 when installed.
> 
> 
> The change notes for this version, for changes since the current, "official" version, V2.08(5nov09), read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I presume they put this up so certain people having this problem can test with it and report back to them. If you are not in that group, there's probably no good reason to install this version.
> 
> 
> Please note, I have no reason to believe this version contains any changes to the installer to cure the problem faced by some folks resulting in failure of the video board to program.
> 
> 
> Nor do I think it contains fixes for any of the pending audio problems, such as the AL-Cinema problem for 7.1 speaker setups, or the problem with certain 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks getting seen as only 5.1, or the problem where the Mode Preset for 2.0 input sometimes doesn't get properly applied.
> 
> --Bob





Can't wait to try this because I am having issues. I'll report back soon.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17603598
> 
> 
> Can't wait to try this because I am having issues. I'll report back soon.



I knew we'd get some nibbles!










While you are at it, double check the AL-Cinema thing. It's not supposed to have been fixed, but it's still worth checking.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17594979
> 
> 
> Apparently you want your fronts to operate lower down than ARC has chosen, but NOT to operate as "Full Range". You can force this by altering the cutoff for the fronts. You shouldn't have to change anything for the sub.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, (newby question here, sorry!) how do I change the cut off for the fronts?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17603619
> 
> 
> I knew we'd get some nibbles!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While you are at it, double check the AL-Cinema thing. It's not supposed to have been fixed, but it's still worth checking.
> 
> --Bob



Install went fine, version still shows 2.08, AL Cinema mode still not fixed, switching between HD channels a little quicker (4 seconds), switching between HD and SD channels a little quicker (4 seconds), and switching between sources maybe a little quicker (6 or 7 seconds) but if it tries to come in all purple it will fix itself and takes a total of 7 to 10 seconds. Still don't like the 10 second delay every time I go into the menu and the 10 second delay to get out. Over all, so far I believe the HDMI switching is more stable. Thanks


PS: Just a note that when I was using my iscan VP50pro scaler the firmware upgrades came out approximately once a year if that, with the Anthem I have seen what 6 or so in a couple of months. Combine that with the support that we get here with Bob, and others, I have to tell you I have never seen anything like it and am glad to have purchased this excellent hardware.


Thanks to all, John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/17604284
> 
> 
> Bob, (newby question here, sorry!) how do I change the cut off for the fronts?



Open up your current set of ARC results in ARC's "Advanced" mode, so you can see the charts.


Click on the Targets button.


In the Targets window you can adjust the "cutoff" for LF/RF. Again this may or may not be a good idea depending on what ARC has Measured for your speakers. The "crossover" for LF/RF will automatically adjust to match the "cutoff".


Accept that change, which also dismisses the Targets window. Now click on Calculate to create a new solution based on your adjusted Targets. If you like what you see, Upload it and give it a listen.


---------------------------------------------


If you post your current charts and Targets window -- i.e., BEFORE you make any such changes -- folks will likely opine on what might be good to try.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17604622
> 
> 
> Install went fine, version still shows 2.08, AL Cinema mode still not fixed, switching between HD channels a little quicker (4 seconds), switching between HD and SD channels a little quicker (4 seconds), and switching between sources maybe a little quicker (6 or 7 seconds) but if it tries to come in all purple it will fix itself and takes a total of 7 to 10 seconds. Still don't like the 10 second delay every time I go into the menu and the 10 second delay to get out. Over all, so far I believe the HDMI switching is more stable. Thanks
> 
> 
> PS: Just a note that when I was using my iscan VP50pro scaler the firmware upgrades came out approximately once a year if that, with the Anthem I have seen what 6 or so in a couple of months. Combine that with the support that we get here with Bob, and others, I have to tell you I have never seen anything like it and am glad to have purchased this excellent hardware.
> 
> 
> Thanks to all, John



We here at "Bob Pariseau" thank you for your kind words!


And it's always good to know we have yet another fearless Beta tester willing to be the first to install a new "test" release!










The minimum time for an HDMI handshake is 2 seconds. Delays are built into the protocol to allow both sides time to respond.


It is not unusual for there to be one retry since you've got the handshake happening on both sides of the Anthem, even if the details are only changing for one side.


In addition, AFTER the handshake there is a shorter "signal detection" time before the processing in the Anthem can fire up for video and for audio.


So 2 seconds is good, and 4 seconds is not outrageous (albeit annoying).


The purple screen happens when there is a mismatch in expectations as to YCbCr vs. RGB. This is a type of handshake failure. The result gets rejected and a new retry gets forced. Thus the additional delay.


You can speed things up by using explicit settings instead of Auto. For example, use YCbCr 4:4:4 in Setup > Video Output > Data instead of Auto in the Anthem. Look for a similar explicit setting in your Source devices.


Use of Auto Dig in the Anthem or Frame Lock in the Anthem will also lengthen the handshake delay a bit.

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib

Well.. Just tried going to a input with no signal (or hdmi assigned to it).


I loaded the video setting gui, and went to test patterns, then checked my projector to see if deep colour was active..


And nope..


I checked status on D2V, and said no signal, with 1080p/24 out..


I went to the video config in anthem that the output was using, and it was set to HDTV, HDMI, 4:4:4, 1080p/24..



So not sure what is going on...



UPDATE WITH NEW BETA FIRMWARE......


Just tried the new 2.08 nov.20 firmware.. with my windows 7 Ultimate 64bit..


IT ACTUALLY WORKED....


With the 2.08 nov.5 firmware, it failed in windows 7 64bit, I had to recover with Virtual XP Mode..


Cooool..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Try it with 1080p/60 output from the D2v. The D2v outputs what the TV says it will accept as regards Deep Color. There may be a setting in your TV that is disabling Deep Color input.

--Bob


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17601572
> 
> 
> If my speculation is right, that 15 kHz dip is in the mic response, so "correcting" it actually adds a boost to the playback that you don't need or want. Best to limit the ARC to


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17602160
> 
> 
> I have the B&W XT series - somewhat similar to the 700/800 series.
> 
> 
> I have a substantial measured null at around 13 KHz in all speakers except the sub.
> 
> 
> My results:



Your measured curves look like mine above 1KHz. Like you all my speakers measure the same in the higher freqs. Try a Max EQ of 500Hz or 1KHz and see how that sounds.


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17604643
> 
> 
> Open up your current set of ARC results in ARC's "Advanced" mode, so you can see the charts.
> 
> 
> Click on the Targets button.
> 
> 
> In the Targets window you can adjust the "cutoff" for LF/RF. Again this may or may not be a good idea depending on what ARC has Measured for your speakers. The "crossover" for LF/RF will automatically adjust to match the "cutoff".
> 
> 
> Accept that change, which also dismisses the Targets window. Now click on Calculate to create a new solution based on your adjusted Targets. If you like what you see, Upload it and give it a listen.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you post your current charts and Targets window -- i.e., BEFORE you make any such changes -- folks will likely opine on what might be good to try.
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob,


I would also like to play with the speaker crossover settings. After up loading the room correction, does changing the crossover ferquencys in the Anthem set up menu make any difference or should I change these settings in the targets?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/17606501
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> I would also like to play with the speaker crossover settings. After up loading the room correction, does changing the crossover ferquencys in the Anthem set up menu make any difference or should I change these settings in the targets?



You must change the "cutoff" settings in Targets, re-Calculate and re-Upload (no need to re-Measure). If you change the crossover settings ARC has Uploaded into the Setup menu you will break the solution ARC has Calculated. I.e., the room correction parameters it has also Uploaded will no longer be correct.


ETA: What settings did you have in mind to change? ARC's choices look reasonable based on your red Measured curves. Keep in mind that the subwoofer "cutoff" and the Uploaded subwoofer "crossover" will typically be different. This is by design.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For any folks who are experiencing brittleness, brightness, harshness or shrillness in high frequencies in their ARC solution, particularly if you are only using the default 5KHz setting for Max EQ Frequency: Carefully review the instructions in the Manual and the discussion often reposted here on ARC mic placement.


The mic must be pointed straight up at each position.


The height of the mic tip should match seated ear height. If you use reclining seats, use the ear height that corresponds to how you will have the seats reclined.


The mic tip should not be adjacent to a reflective or blocking surface such as a seat back or wall. Raise the mic tip just a few inches or move the mic about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from a high seat back.


Mic position #1 should be centered on the screen at your preferred seating distance. This position is the one used for setting speaker volume trims.


Subsequent mic positions must alternate either side of #1.


No two mic positions, whether or not sequential, should be closer than 24 inches apart. I use 30 inches.


It is wise to include some forward/backward in your set of mic positions as well as side to side.


Pick mic positions which sample the range of the seating area -- they need not correspond to individual seat positions. For example, in sofa seating the outer two mic positions should probably be just outside the outer arms, and swung forward towards the screen about in line with the front of the sofa cushion so as to form an arc when combined with the line of positions across the seat back of the sofa.


---------------------------------------


Treble response from speakers is much more directional than bass. The dispersion pattern of speakers in the treble is not uniform, and will typically have holes at certain angles that vary by frequency. The dispersion pattern in the vertical direction is usually worse than in the horizontal. And thus speaker pointing is also important, with particular emphasis on vertical pointing if the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height.


This often shows up most strongly in the surrounds since in many theaters they are closer to the mic positions than the fronts.


The fronts should not be swung around to point directly at center seating. A good rule of thumb is to swing them only 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular to the screen towards center seating.


Treble is also more easily blocked. Thus it is important that you are not standing between any speaker and the current mic position while the test tone is playing for that speaker.


-----------------------------------------------


Nick at Anthem tells me that in their tests they have found high frequency Measurements vary by things you wouldn't expect, such as room temperature and humidity. Its easy to see how such changes could affect tweeter performance for example.


Raising Max EQ Frequency causes ARC to use, and correct, the Measurements in the treble. If the Measurements are in error, then of course what ARC does with them will be wrong.


In addition, raising Max EQ Frequency causes ARC to reassign resources to correction up there. This can result in a lower quality solution in the lower frequencies. Typically this will be visible as additional wobbles (residual error) in the green Calculated curves. The more correction ARC has to do at lower frequencies the more this is likely to happen. So if you add room treatments so ARC has less work to do at the lower frequencies, then raising Max EQ Frequency is more likely to give you good results across the board.


In the final analysis, what matters is the results you are hearing. If you find a lower Max EQ Frequency setting works better for you, then that's the setting to use regardless of what the charts look like.


---------------------------------------------


Our experience in this thread is that many people have had excellent results from raising Max EQ Frequency.


Early on, the advice here was NOT to raise Max EQ Frequency, and reports kept coming in from folks who said they did it anyway and found the results far superior.


My personal experience matches that. I far prefer my 20KHz solution.


But it is also the case that some folks have NOT had good results raising Max EQ Frequency, or not raising it all the way to 20KHz, even though their charts made that look like a good choice. So remember, you don't listen to charts. Use the value that sounds best to you.


But if you are hearing brittle, bright, harsh or shrill results even with Max EQ Frequency at the default 5KHz position -- even after taking due care with your mic positions and speaker pointing -- then something is wrong. Post your ARC charts and Targets window and maybe we can spot something.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:

A perhaps naive question for you....


Since we have to point the mic straight up to the ceiling when performing ARC measurements, doesn't this mean the sounds it hears are the reflections from the ceiling and not directly from the speaker? Hence the solution it comes up with is based off ceiling measurements, right? This might sound silly, but aren't most of the sounds I hear direct from the speakers themselves and not from the ceiling? If so, why do we have to point it upwards. Is the mic directional or omni-directional?


Thanks,

David


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17603204
> 
> 
> It sounds better than when I raised the target to 20K, but I think I may try 10K as a compromise. At 20K it seemed to be overdoing it and everything had a 'tizzy' quality.



FWIW, I've tried 20\\10\\5k.

The 20k gave me 'sizzle' and other bad stuff, like blowing ribbons.

The 10k was a bit better but still made me nervous.

The 5k is by far the best. Regardless of the ARC measurements.


I may try one more measurement routine this long weekend with the mike further out from the seat backs.

I think the last time around I was about a foot out, may try 2x that.

I also recommend an adjustable boom stand for the mike.

It makes the process a lot easier.


Hey Bob Happy Thanksgiving!

I'm running ARC 2.2 on a red board D2.

From the update list 2.3\\2.4 I can see no updates that address ARC core functionality improvements. Is this correct?


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17607482
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> A perhaps naive question for you....
> 
> Is the mic directional or omni-directional?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



Considering the function, omni-directional or some sort of specialized cardioid.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17607561
> 
> 
> I'm running ARC 2.2 on a red board D2.
> 
> From the update list 2.3\\2.4 I can see no updates that address ARC core functionality improvements. Is this correct?



Correct, but if you are going to re-Measure anyway, you might as well install V2.4 first. It only takes a moment.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17607633
> 
> 
> Correct, but if you are going to re-Measure anyway, you might as well install V2.4 first. It only takes a moment.
> 
> --Bob



OK! Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17607482
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> A perhaps naive question for you....
> 
> 
> Since we have to point the mic straight up to the ceiling when performing ARC measurements, doesn't this mean the sounds it hears are the reflections from the ceiling and not directly from the speaker? Hence the solution it comes up with is based off ceiling measurements, right? This might sound silly, but aren't most of the sounds I hear direct from the speakers themselves and not from the ceiling? If so, why do we have to point it upwards. Is the mic directional or omni-directional?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



The mic is omni-directional. but like any mic it has a response pattern. Pointing it straight up is necessary so that it is getting reflections from all angles equally from all speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17607637
> 
> 
> OK! Thanks.



And I presume you have at least firmware V1.33 on your D2.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34

I have a possible bug with my d2v. I notice in zone2 after watching tv if I switch over to my htpc and try to watch a movie I get a cracking sound from my speakers in zone 2. I get video just no sound only this pulsating sound. Its only when I power on the main zone does sound come back in zone 2. Now if I only turn on zone 2 for htpc first it is fine its only if i switch to another source eg..tv for zone 2 does this occur every time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17607712
> 
> 
> I have a possible bug with my d2v. I notice in zone2 after watching tv if I switch over to my htpc and try to watch a movie I get a cracking sound from my speakers in zone 2. I get video just no sound only this pulsating sound. Its only when I power on the main zone does sound come back in zone 2. Now if I only turn on zone 2 for htpc first it is fine its only if i switch to another source eg..tv for zone 2 does this occur every time.



What audio type are you using from the HTPC when it fails this way?


If digital then you must have Main path ON and Copy Main to Zone 2 for audio.


If analog stereo then this may be a firmware bug. Email the details to Anthem tech support and see what they say.


Do you have Auto Dig OFF in the Source setup for your HTPC?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Another thought for folks who believe they are hearing a problem with ARC processing of treble:


While listening to the problem content, go into Setup > Source Setup for that Source and turn Room EQ OFF. This will disable the ARC Room Correction processing for that Source. The effect should be immediate -- i.e., even while you are in the Setup menu.


The volume trims, speaker configuration, and crossovers that ARC Uploaded into Setup will still be in effect. Just the Room Correction processing will be turned off.


NOTE: Some of the older EQ functions become ENABLED when you turn Room EQ OFF for a Source. These include THX Ultra 2 Sub ON/OFF, sub Boundary Gain Compensation ON/OFF, LFE Bypass ON/OFF, the Room Resonance Filter, and the Center EQ adjustment. These will primarily affect the bass and lower mid-range (including dialog), so you want to try to listen past that and focus on the problem you were hearing in treble.


If it is still there with Room EQ OFF then ARC is not doing this to you.


Also note that the effective volume trim is actually a compound of the Uploaded volume trim setting and the boost/attenuation applied by the room correction processing. So you may hear the volume level shift up or down for each speaker a bit when you switch Room EQ OFF. Try to ignore that as well and focus on just your treble problem.


-----------------------------------------------------


It will also be interesting to discover if folks who think ARC is having problems correcting high frequencies are also folks where ARC needs to do a substantial amount of correction in bass. If so, one thing we might be hearing here is ARC running out of resources to do both even though the problem is not showing up as residual error wobbles in the charts when Max EQ Frequency is raised.

--bob


----------



## MK4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17602794
> 
> 
> Are you saying you have TWO 1080p TVs hooked up at the same time to your D2 (through some sort of splitter)? If so, try using only one TV.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If not, go back to basics and concentrate on getting the output side of the video working. Power off your input sources.
> 
> 
> Start by Reloading Factory Defaults (you can preserve your settings in Saved User and/or Installer Settings). The HDMI output will default to 720p.
> 
> 
> Try to bring up the Setup menu. If that doesn't work, double check your HDMI connections. The plugs are only a friction fit and even a slight shift in the socket will screw up the connection. Make sure they are fully inserted straight into the socket without being pushed or tugged in any direction by the weight of the cable or whatever.
> 
> 
> Make sure you have the correct input selected in your display.
> 
> 
> If still no video, try the alternate setting for HDMI Sync. If no change, put that back and try changing Data from Auto to YCbCr 4:4:4.
> 
> 
> If still no video try a different HDMI cable to the display. While you have the cable unplugged, get a flashlight and check the plugs and sockets on each end for signs of pin damage.
> 
> 
> If still no video, give Anthem tech support a call. They will likely ask you to reinstall the V1.33 firmware on top of itself "just in case".
> 
> --Bob




Some progress made after resetting to default and reloading 1.33. I can now see the Anthem setup page 100% of the time at 720p.


Still no video from sources - Status says Video Signal No Input

I can have sources hooked up via component or hdmi and same no input message. Audio plays fine from hdmi or optical.


After reloading software/defaults on D2 if I use Component cable from Bluray to D2 it shows 576i on main screen. If I use HDMI cable it shows 1120p. From D2 to TV both HDMI cable out and Component cable out show the same static bright blue vertical lines on TV. Status still shows no video input. Those numbers just flash on the main D2 screen. Prior to reloading software nothing showed on TV or D2 screen.


I was trying 2 separate TV's to rule out the TV being a factor.

HDMI pins all good. HDMI Sync inverted but didn't help. Force set YCbCr, no good.


Anyway, Happy Thanksgiving. Thanks for the help. I do appreciate it.


I'll give tech support a call tomorrow.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MK4* /forum/post/17607963
> 
> 
> Some progress made after resetting to default and reloading 1.33. I can now see the Anthem setup page 100% of the time at 720p.
> 
> 
> Still no video from sources - Status says Video Signal No Input
> 
> I can have sources hooked up via component or hdmi and same no input message. Audio plays fine from hdmi or optical.
> 
> 
> After reloading software/defaults on D2 if I use Component cable from Bluray to D2 it shows 576i on main screen. If I use HDMI cable it shows 1120p. From D2 to TV both HDMI cable out and Component cable out show the same static bright blue vertical lines on TV. Status still shows no video input. Those numbers just flash on the main D2 screen. Prior to reloading software nothing showed on TV or D2 screen.
> 
> 
> I was trying 2 separate TV's to rule out the TV being a factor.
> 
> HDMI pins all good. HDMI Sync inverted but didn't help. Force set YCbCr, no good.
> 
> 
> Anyway, Happy Thanksgiving. Thanks for the help. I do appreciate it.
> 
> 
> I'll give tech support a call tomorrow.



Yeah, I'm afraid it sounds like the video board inputs are fried. One other possibility is that something shook loose when you moved the unit to the new setup.


In either case, Anthem tech support is the correct next step.

--Bob


----------



## perioms




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17602837
> 
> 
> In your "changed" results did you manually raise the cutoffs for the speakers as well, they are different in the 2 Target windows you posted.
> 
> --Bob



First of all. Thank You very much for your quick response. Your messages are very usefull and I have learned a lot.

You`re right. I raised the cutoffs and minimized the room gain manually. So the curves (Rears) got smoother.

I guess the problem with the front speakers (B&W 802D) is the result of their position near the walls. The space between the screen an the sidewalls is very limited.

Regarding the standing waves I was using 6 corner blocks. 4 of them was bigger ones. I had to remove two of them, because they were responsible for the dip at 250Hz. What kind ot bass traps do You mean and where should they be located?


----------



## MStanic

Just installed 2.08 and ran ARC 2.4 to my D2V. All seems okay.


However, just wondering what the correct sequence is to ensure I'm firing at 75db for all speakers. I saved my factory defaults and then reloaded them after the firmware upgrade and then ran ARC.


To rerun the speaker levels, do I reset to Factory Defaults and then run the SPL test for 75db including entering my speaker distances. If I do that, then I can't reload factory defaults right (does factory defaults store speaker levels, distances and ARC measurements). Just need a sequence for this.


When I run the speaker level test, am I setting the test tone to 75DB or leaving that as is and just going through each speaker? If I set the initial test tone to 75DB, then won't every speaker in theory fire at 75DB. What is the right sequence here.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17607651
> 
> 
> And I presume you have at least firmware V1.33 on your D2.
> 
> --Bob



Correct. I'm not up on the status of 1.47 and like to wait for field reports.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/17608166
> 
> 
> Just installed 2.08 and ran ARC 2.4 to my D2V. All seems okay.
> 
> 
> However, just wondering what the correct sequence is to ensure I'm firing at 75db for all speakers. I saved my factory defaults and then reloaded them after the firmware upgrade and then ran ARC.
> 
> 
> To rerun the speaker levels, do I reset to Factory Defaults and then run the SPL test for 75db including entering my speaker distances. If I do that, then I can't reload factory defaults right (does factory defaults store speaker levels, distances and ARC measurements). Just need a sequence for this.
> 
> 
> When I run the speaker level test, am I setting the test tone to 75DB or leaving that as is and just going through each speaker? If I set the initial test tone to 75DB, then won't every speaker in theory fire at 75DB. What is the right sequence here.



Load your old settings just as normal after a firmware install.


When you are getting ready to do a new ARC Measurement, if you need to adjust the basic level of the ARC solution go into Setup > Level Calibration and do this:


1) Change all lines to 0dB.


2) Set test mode to Manual.


3) Scroll down to Test Level. The tone will be coming from LF. Adjust the Test Level line to yield 75dB SPL measured with your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter at ARC mic position #1.


4) Leaving Test Level at that setting, now scroll down to either subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB.


5) Using the volume knob built into your subwoofer, adjust the subwoofer volume to also yield 75dB SPL measured the same way.


6) Press Back to stop the test tones.


7) Since there appears to be a bug such that ARC is misinterpreting the Test Level value by 6dB, scroll down to the Test Level line again and lower it an ADDITIONAL 6dB down from whatever setting you determined above. All the other lines can stay at 0dB.


Now do your ARC Measurements, Calculations, and Upload.


ARC will use the value in Test Level (adjusted as you did for the 6dB bug) to set the volume of its test sweep tones and to set the basic volume level of the solution. And setting the subwoofer's internal volume this way insures it is close to matched to the main speakers already. The result should be a solution with a basic volume level of 75dB. That is the flat part of the black, dashed Target curve for each speaker in the mid frequency ranges to the right of the Room Gain hump should show on the ARC charts as 75dB.


This corresponds to the output you will get when "reference level" audio input is played while you have the Anthem main volume set at -10dB. [Peak volume levels can easily by 15dB higher.]


ARC will Upload the correct speaker volume trims that it found as part of its solution, leaving Test Level unchanged. Since ARC uses a wider frequency range than the SPL meter sees, the results even for LF and Sub may differ from 0dB, but they should be close.


You only have to do this once as your value of Test Level, and of course the volume knob in your sub, don't change, and ARC ignores the other volume trims when you do a new Measurement (actually it goes in and zeroes them before running the test sweep tones).


If your basic volume level is still a little off and you want to refine it, simply adjust Test Level a little up or down (by the amount the charts show you are off target) before your next ARC Measurement pass. No need to use the SPL meter or do anything with the subwoofer volume knob or the other volume trim lines.


After an ARC Upload, be sure to Save User and/or Installer Settings in Setup to capture the changes ARC has Uploaded.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17608057
> 
> 
> First of all. Thank You very much for your quick response. Your messages are very usefull and I have learned a lot.
> 
> You`re right. I raised the cutoffs and minimized the room gain manually. So the curves (Rears) got smoother.
> 
> I guess the problem with the front speakers (B&W 802D) is the result of their position near the walls. The space between the screen an the sidewalls is very limited.
> 
> Regarding the standing waves I was using 6 corner blocks. 4 of them was bigger ones. I had to remove two of them, because they were responsible for the dip at 250Hz. What kind ot bass traps do You mean and where should they be located?



There's a forum here where folks talk about setting up home theaters. You might want to take a look over there for ideas on how to use bass traps -- particular if your space is constrained.


In the bass frequencies, even inches matter as regards speaker positioning, so it may be worthwhile to try some minor repositioning to see what you get.


To speed things up, tell ARC to set Music same as Movie, and tell ARC your speaker configuration is 2.1 (I.e., just LF/RF/Sub). You'll still have to use 5 mic positions, but one thing you might try, again just to speed up such tests, is to leave the ARC mic at position #1 for all 5 passes. If the bass problem shows that way, then you can do experiments that way to see what reduces it. When you have a candidate setup, then go back to using your normal mic positions to see if it STILL works, and finally add in the rest of the speakers as well.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17607828
> 
> 
> What audio type are you using from the HTPC when it fails this way?
> 
> 
> If digital then you must have Main path ON and Copy Main to Zone 2 for audio.
> 
> 
> If analog stereo then this may be a firmware bug. Email the details to Anthem tech support and see what they say.
> 
> 
> Do you have Auto Dig OFF in the Source setup for your HTPC?
> 
> --Bob



yes Im using digital on htpc with copy main always on. I dont know if my auto dig is on or off I will have to view that setting when I get home.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OK, so having to turn on the Main path makes sense. You can't Copy processed digital audio from Main if Main is powered off.


So the only mystery is why it works when you power up using the HTPC to start. Are you sure Main isn't being powered on in that case as well?

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34




Bob Pariseau said:


> OK, so having to turn on the Main path makes sense. You can't Copy processed digital audio from Main if Main is powered off.
> 
> 
> So the only mystery is why it works when you power up using the HTPC to start. Are you sure Main isn't being powered on in that case as well?
> 
> 
> 
> It works fine initially as I said but if I go over to another source in zone 2 then back to pc is when I get this behavior. I will go ahead and notify Nick.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Do your also have analog audio hooked up from it?


I'm thinking that when you start Zone 2 with the HTPC (with Main path OFF), the analog might be used -- incorrectly. But when you switch to it after using another source it tries to do what you told it to do (Copy from Main) and discovers it can't since Main is powered off.


Alternatively, if you are using a programmable remote, your procedure for powering up Zone 2 for HTPC may also be turning on Main unintentionally, but your procedure for switching sources may then be including the command to turn Main off again. This could be the case for all of your Zone 2 power on cases, but you'd never notice if the other sources were not also set to Copy from Main.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17604643
> 
> 
> Open up your current set of ARC results in ARC's "Advanced" mode, so you can see the charts.
> 
> 
> Click on the Targets button.
> 
> 
> In the Targets window you can adjust the "cutoff" for LF/RF. Again this may or may not be a good idea depending on what ARC has Measured for your speakers. The "crossover" for LF/RF will automatically adjust to match the "cutoff".
> 
> 
> Accept that change, which also dismisses the Targets window. Now click on Calculate to create a new solution based on your adjusted Targets. If you like what you see, Upload it and give it a listen.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you post your current charts and Targets window -- i.e., BEFORE you make any such changes -- folks will likely opine on what might be good to try.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

My current charts are shown in post number 23547 or by clicking on the following link:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=23547 


Looking at the targets window of my current configuration, it appears that ARC picked a XO of 60 hz for the L/R fronts.


Per your suggestion and to avoid messing things up, I saved those original charts/files with a different name. I then opened the targets window and clicked the box to allow for full XO for the L-R speakers. I recalculated the parameters. A quick look at the charts reveals NO visual difference between the charts as compared to the ones shown on my post #23547.

I will try to include the new charts in a subsequent post, but again, I saw no visual difference between the two. I have NOT uploaded the recalculated parameters/values into the D2.

Let me know what you think. Thanks!!


----------



## Nicoff

As promised, here are the charts using L/R as full range. Note: I have NOT uploaded this new configuration into the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/17612146
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> My current charts are shown in post number 23547 or by clicking on the following link:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=23547
> 
> 
> Looking at the targets window of my current configuration, it appears that ARC picked a XO of 60 hz for the L/R fronts.
> 
> 
> Per your suggestion and to avoid messing things up, I saved those original charts/files with a different name. I then opened the targets window and clicked the box to allow for full XO for the L-R speakers. I recalculated the parameters. A quick look at the charts reveals NO visual difference between the charts as compared to the ones shown on my post #23547.
> 
> I will try to include the new charts in a subsequent post, but again, I saw no visual difference between the two. I have NOT uploaded the recalculated parameters/values into the D2.
> 
> Let me know what you think. Thanks!!



There are two different things going on here. When you check mark the "Full Range" box, that turns off bass steering from that speaker pair -- no bass from them will be sent to the sub. It's the equivalent of setting them to "Large".


But ARC still applies a roll off to their response curve as part of its Room Correction solution. That's the 60Hz "cutoff" you are seeing. Since you left the 60Hz cutoff in effect, and also set them to full range, the lowest bass from your LF/RF pair is simply being discarded.


To correct this, in addition to setting them to "full range", lower their cutoff to the lowest allowed value (25Hz).


-------------------------------------------


But please note that your LF/RF speakers are not really capable of Full Range operation. Look at their red Measured curves. That's the inherent output from each of them without ARC doing anything.


By 50Hz they already Measure 4dB below the basic volume level of your ARC solution, and they just continue dropping from there. That's why ARC applied the 60Hz cutoff/crossover to them in the first place.


If you force ARC to treat them as Full Range it will try to do so -- within limits. It won't boost them more than 6dB to keep from stressing the amps and woofers. And of course the resources it expends doing that can't be used for other stuff.


Really the 60Hz cutoff/crossover ARC is using for them right now makes the best sense. They are not Measuring as capable of being Full Range speakers.


My recommendation would be to leave them just as ARC set them: NOT Full Range and the 60Hz cutoff/crossover.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17611036
> 
> 
> Do your also have analog audio hooked up from it?
> 
> 
> I'm thinking that when you start Zone 2 with the HTPC (with Main path OFF), the analog might be used -- incorrectly. But when you switch to it after using another source it tries to do what you told it to do (Copy from Main) and discovers it can't since Main is powered off.
> 
> 
> Alternatively, if you are using a programmable remote, your procedure for powering up Zone 2 for HTPC may also be turning on Main unintentionally, but your procedure for switching sources may then be including the command to turn Main off again. This could be the case for all of your Zone 2 power on cases, but you'd never notice if the other sources were not also set to Copy from Main.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks for the input. I dont have analog coming out of the pc as well. I dont believe without telling the pc im using the analog connections that it would work anyway. I will check on my remote to see if it is doing something with main. When I had my d2 set up I didnt recall having to power on main actually to get zone 2 to work before if that were the case I would remember hearing sound coming from the theater room. I can tell you that if I manually power on main after I get this behavior I do get sound again from zone 2. I then power down main so I dont have the same thing playing in main...but I still have audio and video from zone 2 at that point....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17612778
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. I dont have analog coming out of the pc as well. I dont believe without telling the pc im using the analog connections that it would work anyway. I will check on my remote to see if it is doing something with main. When I had my d2 set up I didnt recall having to power on main actually to get zone 2 to work before if that were the case I would remember hearing sound coming from the theater room. I can tell you that if I manually power on main after I get this behavior I do get sound again from zone 2. I then power down main so I dont have the same thing playing in main...but I still have audio and video from zone 2 at that point....



Very strange. That's not my understanding of how it is supposed to work.


Probably best to proceed with Nick at Anthem as you had intended.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17612669
> 
> 
> There are two different things going on here. When you check mark the "Full Range" box, that turns off bass steering from that speaker pair -- no bass from them will be sent to the sub. It's the equivalent of setting them to "Large".
> 
> 
> But ARC still applies a roll off to their response curve as part of its Room Correction solution. That's the 60Hz "cutoff" you are seeing. Since you left the 60Hz cutoff in effect, and also set them to full range, the lowest bass from your LF/RF pair is simply being discarded.
> 
> 
> To correct this, in addition to setting them to "full range", lower their cutoff to the lowest allowed value (25Hz).
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> But please note that your LF/RF speakers are not really capable of Full Range operation. Look at their red Measured curves. That's the inherent output from each of them without ARC doing anything.
> 
> 
> By 50Hz they already Measure 4dB below the basic volume level of your ARC solution, and they just continue dropping from there. That's why ARC applied the 60Hz cutoff/crossover to them in the first place.
> 
> 
> If you force ARC to treat them as Full Range it will try to do so -- within limits. It won't boost them more than 6dB to keep from stressing the amps and woofers. And of course the resources it expends doing that can't be used for other stuff.
> 
> 
> Really the 60Hz cutoff/crossover ARC is using for them right now makes the best sense. They are not Measuring as capable of being Full Range speakers.
> 
> 
> My recommendation would be to leave them just as ARC set them: NOT Full Range and the 60Hz cutoff/crossover.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you for the explanation and the suggestion Bob. I plan to leave as is (which already sounds very good so no complaints here!).

Once I get my new electronic (active) crossover and new amp for the low frequencies I will run ARC again and see if, given the new set up, the speakers respond any differently in the low frequencies. More to come in a couple of weeks (I hope!).

Thanks again Bob!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17608383
> 
> 
> Load your old settings just as normal after a firmware install.
> 
> 
> When you are getting ready to do a new ARC Measurement, if you need to adjust the basic level of the ARC solution go into Setup > Level Calibration and do this:
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 7) *Since there appears to be a bug such that ARC is misinterpreting the Test Level value by 6dB, scroll down to the Test Level line again and lower it an ADDITIONAL 6dB down from whatever setting you determined above. All the other lines can stay at 0dB*.
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> After an ARC Upload, be sure to Save User and/or Installer Settings in Setup to capture the changes ARC has Uploaded.
> 
> --Bob




Bob:


Can you please explain this what this 6 dB bug that you're referring to is? When i performed ARC measurements today, I never adjusted the Test Level value by 6 dB and my speakers measured within a 1dB of the 75dB target level.


Here are the numbers from the level calibration screen after my ARC measurements:


Test Level: +5 dB

FRONT-L: -0.5dB

CENTER : -3.0dB

FRONT-R: +0.0dB

SUR-R: +2.0

REAR-R: NA

REAR-L: NA

SUR-L: +3.0dB

MOVIE SUB: -1.0dB

MUSIC SUB: NA


I performed the ARC measuremenst as you described above except i didn't reduce the Test Level by 6dB. My signal connections from my 50v to my power amplifier are done via XLR cables. The subwoofer output converts to a single connection via an XLR-RCA connection at the subwoofer.


Not sure if this matters but my volume setting is at -15.0 (units unknown).


What am i missing?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You aren't missing anything. I am. Apparently this 6dB bug doesn't happen in all circumstances and I haven't figured out what makes it happen.


I see you are using XLR outputs. Since there's a 6dB difference between the XLR and RCA outputs I thought that might be related (I use RCA myself). But I don't think we've had enough reports on this to be sure. Heck it could even be that the bug exists in the D2v but not in the AVM 50v.


In any event, if the ARC chart results are coming out at the correct level, that is, if the flat part of the ARC Target curves in the mid-frequencies to the right of the Room Gain hump are at 75dB on the ARC charts, there's nothing more you need to do about this. You're good just the way you've got it set now. Thanks for the report!

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17615176
> 
> 
> You aren't missing anything. I am. Apparently this 6dB bug doesn't happen in all circumstances and I haven't figured out what makes it happen.
> 
> 
> I see you are using XLR outputs. Since there's a 6dB difference between the XLR and RCA outputs I thought that might be related (I use RCA myself). But I don't think we've had enough reports on this to be sure. Heck it could even be that the bug exists in the D2v but not in the AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> In any event, if the ARC chart results are coming out at the correct level, that is, if the flat part of the ARC Target curves in the mid-frequencies to the right of the Room Gain hump are at 75dB on the ARC charts, there's nothing more you need to do about this. You're good just the way you've got it set now. Thanks for the report!
> 
> --Bob




Bob:


Please take a look at my charts. The plotted reference levels are about 78 dB while the ones measured with my RS meter and using the level calibration screen are at about 75dB +/- 1dB at listening position #1. What can I improve(low bass response of my satellites high)? Comments welcome


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17615176
> 
> 
> You aren't missing anything. I am. Apparently this 6dB bug doesn't happen in all circumstances and I haven't figured out what makes it happen.
> 
> 
> I see you are using XLR outputs. Since there's a 6dB difference between the XLR and RCA outputs I thought that might be related (I use RCA myself). But I don't think we've had enough reports on this to be sure. Heck it could even be that the bug exists in the D2v but not in the AVM 50v.
> 
> --Bob



I have an AVM 50v and the 6db bug. I think it's the ARC software itself. Since I'm new to Anthem, the oldest version I ever ran was 2.2 and it had the bug. Can you remember a version where you started seeing the charts show the 81db level? Maybe it's not a bug either. It could be there to help people who are measuring in a less than tomb quiet room. ARC may be determining your noise level before running the measurements.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17615305
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Please take a look at my charts. The plotted reference levels are about 78 dB while the ones measured with my RS meter and using the level calibration screen are at about 75dB +/- 1dB at listening position #1. What can I improve(low bass response of my satellites high)? Comments welcome



You are close enough on level right now, but if you'd like to tidy it up you can simply lower Test Level 3dB from where you have it now before your next ARC Measurement pass. No need to change any of the other values in Level Calibration.


If we jump to the conclusion that you made a 3dB mistake in setting things up with your SPL meter (set things 3dB lower than you thought you did), you could in fact have the 6dB bug. One way this can happen is if you pick the wrong range setting on the SPL meter. The meter is most accurate when the value you are trying to achieve is in the middle of whatever range you used. For example, on the Radio Shack digital readout SPL meter, you should use the 70dB range when trying to hit 75dB.


-----------------------------------------


Your high frequencies don't look that bad right now, but I'm a bit worried that you have more residual error (wobbles in the green Calculated curve) in the high mid-range, say around 3KHz. One thing to try would be to reduce Max EQ Frequency back to the default 5KHz and see if those go away. If they do, then work it back up towards 20KHz (just keep splitting the difference) until you find a nice compromise setting that keeps those looking clean but gets you as much of the high frequency correction as you can get. The end result might be a 17KHz setting for example.


You can do all that experimentation without having to re-Measure. Just re-Calculate with each new candidate Max EQ Frequency value, and when you get a result you like, Upload it and give it a listen.


----------------------------------------------


I also see that ARC has chosen a higher crossover for each of your speakers than would be ideal. You don't want the crossover too high as that moves low mid-range into the subwoofer and the sub becomes localizable.


Now your speakers actually measure as dropping off in bass below 100Hz, and what's showing on the charts doesn't look like this is due to room response issues, so there's no repositioning that makes sense with them. But if they offer a way to configure their bass output for lower bass -- opening a bass port for example, then you should give that a try.


[The swing between 70Hz and 110Hz in Center is pretty severe -- and the reason why ARC moved the Center crossover up as high as it is. But Center is dropping off swiftly below 70Hz as well so it looks mostly like that's the speaker's inherent response rather than a positioning problem.]


What's perhaps more important is seeing if you can get additional high bass output from your subwoofer. Right now it looks like your sub has an internal 80Hz crossover active in it (typical of a sub that has a "THX" setting). That should be disabled/bypassed. In some subs that's a switch, in others it is a separate input jack that doesn't use the internal crossover. If you can't completely bypass it, crank it up to the highest possible frequency setting to get it out of the way as much as possible.


Making such changes would require you to re-Measure.


While you are at it, you might try shifting the sub closer to the wall/corner behind it. That will give you some "Boundary Gain" and may improve your sub output below 30Hz. Right now you sub is showing as good down to around 25Hz.


-------------------------------------------------


By the way, your charts are another example in favor of saying that what's being Measured by ARC at the highest frequencies is real and not a mic problem. Just take a look at LF for example. If the low response from other speakers at 20KHz is a mic problem we'd have to assume LF actually had a spike at 20KHz, which is pretty unlikely.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU* /forum/post/17615432
> 
> 
> I have an AVM 50v and the 6db bug. I think it's the ARC software itself. Since I'm new to Anthem, the oldest version I ever ran was 2.2 and it had the bug. Can you remember a version where you started seeing the charts show the 81db level? Maybe it's not a bug either. It could be there to help people who are measuring in a less than tomb quiet room. ARC may be determining your noise level before running the measurements.



I suspect the bug is in the unit firmware as opposed to the ARC software -- i.e., the way the unit implements the test sweep tones for ARC.


I don't know exactly when the bug appeared, but it was working correctly back in March. That would have been ARC V2.1 and probably D2v firmware V2.04.


One reason I think it is in the unit firmware is I don't believe we have any reports confirming this bug from original D2 or AVM 50 owners even though they are using the newer ARC releases.


By the way, I believe what ARC is showing on the charts accurately reflects the solution ARC is Uploading. That is, if you Upload a solution that shows as having a 75dB basic volume level on the charts, then that is, in fact, what you are getting.

--Bob


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17606873
> 
> 
> You must change the "cutoff" settings in Targets, re-Calculate and re-Upload (no need to re-Measure). If you change the crossover settings ARC has Uploaded into the Setup menu you will break the solution ARC has Calculated. I.e., the room correction parameters it has also Uploaded will no longer be correct.
> 
> 
> ETA: What settings did you have in mind to change? ARC's choices look reasonable based on your red Measured curves. Keep in mind that the subwoofer "cutoff" and the Uploaded subwoofer "crossover" will typically be different. This is by design.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


In the above you mentioned that the sub cutoff is different than the crossover frequency. I understand some of this but how would you recommend that I change the sub crossover frequency? The uploaded value for my sub was 70Hz but I think it should be set for 80Hz and you mentioned that crossover frequencies should be set in the targets. As a different cutoff is in the targets than what is uploaded as a crossover frequency, how should I adjust the crossover? My cut off frequency is 120Hz.


----------



## "MIKEY"

What connection is used to display the D2's OSD?


The reason that I ask is our Pioneer 151 display is connected directly to our Pioneer BDP 51 to allow deep color 36 bit.


We are manually going through the D2 without OSD and would like to use OSD for other options.


Happy Holidays to all!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/17617070
> 
> 
> What connection is used to display the D2's OSD?
> 
> 
> The reason that I ask is our Pioneer 151 display is connected directly to our Pioneer BDP 51 to allow deep color 36 bit.
> 
> 
> We are manually going through the D2 without OSD and would like to use OSD for other options.
> 
> 
> Happy Holidays to all!



The OSD is available on HDMI, Component, and S-video outputs.

--Bob


----------



## "MIKEY"

Bob


Specifically, what are the connections? We're having trouble with what appears to be a simple solution.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17616144
> 
> 
> You are close enough on level right now, but if you'd like to tidy it up you can simply lower Test Level 3dB from where you have it now before your next ARC Measurement pass. No need to change any of the other values in Level Calibration.
> 
> 
> If we jump to the conclusion that you made a 3dB mistake in setting things up with your SPL meter (set things 3dB lower than you thought you did), you could in fact have the 6dB bug. One way this can happen is if you pick the wrong range setting on the SPL meter. The meter is most accurate when the value you are trying to achieve is in the middle of whatever range you used. For example, on the Radio Shack digital readout SPL meter, you should use the 70dB range when trying to hit 75dB.
> 
> *OK...will verify and set meter range to 70dB*
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Your high frequencies don't look that bad right now, but I'm a bit worried that you have more residual error (wobbles in the green Calculated curve) in the high mid-range, say around 3KHz. One thing to try would be to reduce Max EQ Frequency back to the default 5KHz and see if those go away. If they do, then work it back up towards 20KHz (just keep splitting the difference) until you find a nice compromise setting that keeps those looking clean but gets you as much of the high frequency correction as you can get. The end result might be a 17KHz setting for example.
> 
> 
> You can do all that experimentation without having to re-Measure. Just re-Calculate with each new candidate Max EQ Frequency value, and when you get a result you like, Upload it and give it a listen.
> 
> 
> *OK....will do to see if 'wiggles' are reduced. BTW, what are the acceptable tolerance limits of these wiggles w/o excessive taxing the amplifier? Is it +/- 1dB, 2dB or more?*----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I also see that ARC has chosen a higher crossover for each of your speakers than would be ideal. You don't want the crossover too high as that moves low mid-range into the subwoofer and the sub becomes localizable.
> 
> 
> Now your speakers actually measure as dropping off in bass below 100Hz, and what's showing on the charts doesn't look like this is due to room response issues, so there's no repositioning that makes sense with them. But if they offer a way to configure their bass output for lower bass -- opening a bass port for example, then you should give that a try.
> 
> 
> [The swing between 70Hz and 110Hz in Center is pretty severe -- and the reason why ARC moved the Center crossover up as high as it is. But Center is dropping off swiftly below 70Hz as well so it looks mostly like that's the speaker's inherent response rather than a positioning problem.]
> 
> 
> What's perhaps more important is seeing if you can get additional high bass output from your subwoofer. Right now it looks like your sub has an internal 80Hz crossover active in it (typical of a sub that has a "THX" setting). That should be disabled/bypassed. In some subs that's a switch, in others it is a separate input jack that doesn't use the internal crossover. If you can't completely bypass it, crank it up to the highest possible frequency setting to get it out of the way as much as possible.
> 
> *Sub has no internal crossover that I know of but has a frequency knob pegged to its maximum, which is 100Hz.*
> 
> 
> Making such changes would require you to re-Measure.
> 
> 
> While you are at it, you might try shifting the sub closer to the wall/corner behind it. That will give you some "Boundary Gain" and may improve your sub output below 30Hz. Right now you sub is showing as good down to around 25Hz.
> 
> *Sub is smack between 2 corner walls with slight room in the back to accomodate connectors. Will try to reposition it in another place.*
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> By the way, your charts are another example in favor of saying that what's being Measured by ARC at the highest frequencies is real and not a mic problem. Just take a look at LF for example. If the low response from other speakers at 20KHz is a mic problem we'd have to assume LF actually had a spike at 20KHz, which is pretty unlikely.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob....please see my answers in *bold* letters above.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Generally speaking I like to see the residual errors kept under +/- 2dB. But wobbles that span a fair range of frequencies are more important than one rather isolated glitch. Wobbles at or below about +/- 1dB can probably be ignored.


Keep in mind, if you are going to use the SPL meter to re-set Test Level, you need to zero out the LF line first. Those two lines interact. That's one reason why I tell people to start this exercise by zeroing out all the lines.


That frequency knob is almost certainly the internal crossover setting for your sub. 100Hz is a little low as the "highest" setting for a sub crossover, but if that's what you've got to work with, then that's what you should use.


At bass frequencies, particular at the subsonic frequencies (below 30Hz), even inches matter in sub positioning. So yes you might want to try some slight shifting experiments.


You can speed up such tests by setting Music "same as" Movie and only including LF/RF/Sub in your ARC configuration. You can even leave the mic at position #1 for all 5 sweeps as a rough test. If you still see the problem that way, and it goes away when you shift the sub, then that's a good candidate position for a more normal ARC setup. So try your normal mic positions next, and if the problem is still gone, then include all the speakers as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *"MIKEY"* /forum/post/17617479
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Specifically, what are the connections? We're having trouble with what appears to be a simple solution.



I don't understand the question.


Apparently you've got the player connected directly to one HDMI input into the display. Where do you want the Anthem OSD to go? If to the same display, then plug it into a separate HDMI input of the display. Of course you'll have to switch the display between those inputs to see it.


---------------------------------


Forget about the player for the moment. What Main path video output socket are you trying to use from the Anthem and what are you seeing as the result when you try the various on-screen displays from the Anthem: E.g., pressing the Select button or bringing up the Video Source Adjust menu or bringing up the Setup menu?


Go to Setup > Displays / Timeout in the Anthem and compare the settings you are using to the default settings shown in Section 3.12 of the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

I've purchased a tactile sub kit that I will be connecting via the second LFE output on the D2v. I listen to a lot of music where I will not want to use this device but I will want to use my sub. Is there a way to do this other than manually turning it off each time?


Would I have to rerun ARC with this type of tactile device?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17618052
> 
> 
> I've purchased a tactile sub kit that I will be connecting via the second LFE output on the D2v. I listen to a lot of music where I will not want to use this device but I will want to use my sub. Is there a way to do this other than manually turning it off each time?
> 
> 
> Would I have to rerun ARC with this type of tactile device?



I would definitely rerun ARC as I understand that it actually Measures down to 5Hz even though the charts don't go that low. Whether the ARC mic picks up anything will likely depend on how much air the new unit moves via the things it vibrates. It will be quite interesting to see if your charts show any change.


-----------------------------------------


The 4 sub outputs (2 RCA and 2 XLR) can not be separately shut off. So yes, you'd have to manually disable the new unit when you don't want to use it. If you are using a programmable remote, you may be able to hook it up to a remote controlled power strip to do that.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17617903
> 
> 
> Generally speaking I like to see the residual errors kept under +/- 2dB. But wobbles that span a fair range of frequencies are more important than one rather isolated glitch. Wobbles at or below about +/- 1dB can probably be ignored.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, if you are going to use the SPL meter to re-set Test Level, you need to zero out the LF line first. Those two lines interact. That's one reason why I tell people to start this exercise by zeroing out all the lines.
> 
> 
> That frequency knob is almost certainly the internal crossover setting for your sub. 100Hz is a little low as the "highest" setting for a sub crossover, but if that's what you've got to work with, then that's what you should use.
> 
> 
> At bass frequencies, particular at the subsonic frequencies (below 30Hz), even inches matter in sub positioning. So yes you might want to try some slight shifting experiments.
> 
> 
> You can speed up such tests by setting Music "same as" Movie and only including LF/RF/Sub in your ARC configuration. You can even leave the mic at position #1 for all 5 sweeps as a rough test. If you still see the problem that way, and it goes away when you shift the sub, then that's a good candidate position for a more normal ARC setup. So try your normal mic positions next, and if the problem is still gone, then include all the speakers as well.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob:


Regarding the acceptable errors, did you mean the errors should be +/-2dB peak to peak, above and below the reference line or you meant a maximum of 2dB either above or below the reference line? Just wanted to clarify things a bit for me.


Also, would room treatments help or does ARC make them un-necessary?


Lastly, the lights and display screen on my 50v seem to be in full torch mode at night and rather distracting. Any way to dim or reduce their intensity or even shut them off?


Thanks again,,

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17618111
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob:
> 
> 
> Regarding the acceptable errors, did you mean the errors should be +/-2dB peak to peak, above and below the reference line or you meant a maximum of 2dB either above or below the reference line? Just wanted to clarify things a bit for me.
> 
> 
> Also, would room treatments help or does ARC make them un-necessary?
> 
> 
> Lastly, the lights and display screen on my 50v seem to be in full torch mode at night and rather distracting. Any way to dim or reduce their intensity or even shut them off?
> 
> 
> Thanks again,,
> 
> David



I meant 2dB above or below the Target curve (i.e., a worst-case 4dB swing). That's too much.


Check Section 3.12 in the Manual for the FP-Wake Up setting, and also Section 4.10 in the Manual for setting the display brightness.


For example I have the display set to dim with a wake-up brightness of high that kicks in whenever I do anything with the remote and then times out and goes back to dim.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17618081
> 
> 
> I would definitely rerun ARC as I understand that it actually Measures down to 5Hz even though the charts don't go that low. Whether the ARC mic picks up anything will likely depend on how much air the new unit moves via the things it vibrates. It will be quite interesting to see if your charts show any change.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The 4 sub outputs (2 RCA and 2 XLR) can not be separately shut off. So yes, you'd have to manually disable the new unit when you don't want to use it. If you are using a programmable remote, you may be able to hook it up to a remote controlled power strip to do that.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Great suggestion. I will hook the tactile device amp into a remote power outlet and program it into my remote. Thanks!


----------



## peechus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17616196
> 
> 
> I suspect the bug is in the unit firmware as opposed to the ARC software -- i.e., the way the unit implements the test sweep tones for ARC.
> 
> 
> I don't know exactly when the bug appeared, but it was working correctly back in March. That would have been ARC V2.1 and probably D2v firmware V2.04.
> 
> 
> One reason I think it is in the unit firmware is I don't believe we have any reports confirming this bug from original D2 or AVM 50 owners even though they are using the newer ARC releases.
> 
> 
> By the way, I believe what ARC is showing on the charts accurately reflects the solution ARC is Uploading. That is, if you Upload a solution that shows as having a 75dB basic volume level on the charts, then that is, in fact, what you are getting.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, i too seem to have a similar reference level. i recently [last week] installed 2.08 in my d2v. in earlier measurements the calculated line seemed to cleave closely to the baby's butt. could this render other measurements questionable? my surround speakers were replaced because the low end was rolled off. these new deftech top of the line surrounds chart out the same. i would very much appreciate your thoughts, peechus.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/17621295
> 
> 
> Bob, i too seem to have a similar reference level. i recently [last week] installed 2.08 in my d2v. in earlier measurements the calculated line seemed to cleave closely to the baby's butt. could this render other measurements questionable? my surround speakers were replaced because the low end was rolled off. these new deftech top of the line surrounds chart out the same. i would very much appreciate your thoughts, peechus.



The basic volume level error is likely not the cause of this, although you might as well lower Test Level to correct it.


You've got some pretty wild swings in your room, so something is going on there with either the room geometry or the way you have the speakers positioned/installed, but the low frequency roll off in the Side surrounds doesn't look like a room issue.


Double check how you have the new Side surrounds wired. Do they have separate input jacks for bass that need to be wired? Also check for any bass configuration option in the new speakers.


If that doesn't lead to an answer, then try this: At the output from the amp, swap the speaker wires between your Side and your Rear surrounds and Measure again. If the problem moves to your rears then it is something in the electronics.


-----------------------------------------


I also notice that you've got some very large differences in the "cutoff" values between your Movie and Music Targets. That suggests to me you may not have your mic positions chosen properly. In particular the jump in "cutoff" value for the rears from 70Hz to 115Hz is unlikely given the Measured curves for the Rears in these charts.


Oh, and your subwoofer looks like its internal crossover is still turned on. So check that as well. Disable it or if you can't do that, crank it up to the highest possible frequency setting to get it out of the way as much as possible.

--Bob


----------



## peechus

while searching for a DIGITAL INTERNET TUNER it seems most of the users are committed to pairing it with an external DAC to achieve their best [flavor?] sound. my D2v stands ready with it's highly regarded internal DACs but are there other choices that may render a superior [flavor?] sound? peechus


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/17626662
> 
> 
> while searching for a DIGITAL INTERNET TUNER it seems most of the users are committed to pairing it with an external DAC to achieve their best [flavor?] sound. my D2v stands ready with it's highly regarded internal DACs but are there other choices that may render a superior [flavor?] sound? peechus



Here is a suggestion that I am using. It has blown me away with the sound quality.

I have never been one to believe you actually could hear most of the benefits in spending the extra $$$ sometimes asked for high end audiophile equipment. My purchase of a Theta Casablanca several years ago that now has been replaced by my D2 had been the exception till now.


Several months a go I purchased a Logitech Transporter to enable playing Lossless Flac or Wav digital music files from my server and other internet sources like Radioio, Pandora etc. It did sound very very good.

Now I recently acquired and added a Weiss Minerva DAC and the sound is now absolutely amazing. The Transporter streams 176k audio files from a Media Smart server over wired ethernet and is connected via AES/EBU to the Minerva which then feeds the Anthem D2 via analog balanced cables. The Anthem is set to play 2 channel Analog Direct and act only as a analog volume control. It is the first time I can honestly say the Anthem D2 sounds better using Analog Direct rather than using Analog DSP and ARC.

I also now use my OPPO as an audio transport for Redbook CDs and feed the Minerva via S/PDIF Digital. Again using the Anthem in 2 channel Analog Direct. The sound from some Redbook 44.1k CDs sometimes is incredible.

You will probably have even better results as your D2v inputs up to 192K and my D2 only inputs up to 96k and my FLAC and WAV files are 176k.

A D2v is now in my list of future purchases so I can have that 192k capability.

Sorry to go OT with this but I wanted to answer your question and it does relate to the Anthem.


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17627296
> 
> 
> Here is a suggestion that I am using. It has blown me away with the sound quality.
> 
> I have never been one to believe you actually could hear most of the benefits in spending the extra $$$ sometimes asked for high end audiophile equipment. My purchase of a Theta Casablanca several years ago that now has been replaced by my D2 had been the exception till now.
> 
> 
> Several months a go I purchased a Logitech Transporter to enable playing Lossless Flac or Wav digital music files from my server and other internet sources like Radioio, Pandora etc. It did sound very very good.
> 
> Now I recently acquired and added a Weiss Minerva DAC and the sound is now absolutely amazing. The Transporter streams 176k audio files from a Media Smart server over wired ethernet and is connected via AES/EBU to the Minerva which then feeds the Anthem D2 via analog balanced cables. The Anthem is set to play 2 channel Analog Direct and act only as a analog volume control. It is the first time I can honestly say the Anthem D2 sounds better using Analog Direct rather than using Analog DSP and ARC.
> 
> I also now use my OPPO as an audio transport for Redbook CDs and feed the Minerva via S/PDIF Digital. Again using the Anthem in 2 channel Analog Direct. The sound from some Redbook 44.1k CDs sometimes is incredible.
> 
> You will probably have even better results as your D2v inputs up to 192K and my D2 only inputs up to 96k and my FLAC and WAV files are 176k.
> 
> A D2v is now in my list of future purchases so I can have that 192k capability.
> 
> Sorry to go OT with this but I wanted to answer your question and it does relate to the Anthem.



Actually, I am very happy with the D2v's DAC performance. I guess I started the wrong way around with my new system; I started with speakers, then amp, then processor leaving the source until last. I have B&W 803d x2, 805s x4 and HTM4s power by a Wyred4Sound 250x7. As I think is shown by this set up, music is a priority for me. Initially, I purchased the D2v as a concession to the BOSS (known as wife in other cultures) who decided to remodel the family room. There was no way to upgrade my sound system if not behind a home theater setup. I did a lot of research and I decided on the D2v. Here is where the problem began. I was not getting the hifi audio I was hoping for







. I inadvertently started a debate on whether the Ice modules in my amp had hi frequency problems and many other can of worms. However, I was stubborn not to kick my already purchased products without first experimenting with the source.


I put off my source selection until last (being by far the most important) since I believe cd as we conceive them today are based on an outdated technology (no debates here, only a personal opinion). Sure, until this last upgrade I played with my vinyls. However, I was committed this time to go 180 degress. An all digital solution to my listening room is what I was after. The OPPO does its job for movie playback and is a great all around player, but for music, it just was not up to my expectations. Again, it is a BlueRay player first and foremost, so I was not lied to in any way.


I justified the D2v`s price tag with the notion that I would not need external DACS, therefore, a 2k-4k savings. To get to the point, I set up a mac music server, with everything uncompressed and upsampled to 96/24, using iTunes as music manager and Amarra mini as output. I use an Empirical Audio Offramp3 with ultraclock as a USB to AES/EBU converter; I use Acustic Zens mc2 AES/EBU and AXIS USB cable. It was a long, frustrating and very expensive journey, trying many intermediate solutions in the process. I can therefore say, that at least for me, each upgrade in the system made a HUGE difference towards a hifi music play back experience







. First the OffRamp3, wow







; then came the mc2 cable, again wow







; last the Axis USB cable, double WOW














. The same was my experience with music at different sample rates.


Everywhere I have looked, I see the D2v commented as a highly praised home theater solution. I have yet to see the D2v commented (favorably or not) as an audiophile music processor. As it stands, I do not believe an external DAC can better my system in a noticeable way. I still spent well over the savings I was expecting, but not on cd players or DAC`s. I would love to read some reviews/comments on the D2v's DAC performance as compared to other solutions. I am willing to bet they will be right up there with the industry's best. But then again, this is only a personal appraisal and I look forward to read other people's opinions on the matter.


If I am completely lost forum wise, please accept an apology and point me in the right direction.


----------



## dlynch34

Ok there is definately a bug with zone 2 that im seeing with the d2v. As I stated earlier I noticed when I toggled from my htpc to sat then back I would not get any sound or clicking sound. I have now find that if I turn off the d2v then back on I can recover sound to my htpc from zone 2. Nick says the engineers are looking into this so Im sure they will figure out the problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ccomhs,


First of all, welcome to AVS, and welcome to the Cool Kids Thread!


This is fine thread for you to discuss the use of these Anthem processors for music.


Actually we've had several rounds of such discussions, but it's easy to miss them given all the other stuff being discussed in here.


When the D1 changed into the original D2 with the addition of a video board, a lot of the music discussion turned into video and movie track discussion, and that's kind of carried over into the D2v today.


One of the most often debated topics here is using ANALOG-DIRECT vs ANALOG-DSP. In general, it appears there is pretty good consensus here that folks think ANALOG-DSP is better because it lets you use ARC with your Analog sources.


Indeed, Nick at Anthem tells me they did some blind testing with the DSP processing settings set to neutral (no ARC or anything else) and they found that Statement listeners could not tell whether the analog input was being re-digitized or simply passed through. This means that there is nothing lost when you let the D2v re-digitize the input and then convert back to analog for output. ARC of course is just value added on top of that.


Another thing that's useful to know is that there is a Setup setting for the sampling frequency used to re-digitize stereo analog inputs. By factory default it is set to only 44.1KHz (to make sure it will work with the widest range of digital audio recorders). But if you don't have to worry about a recorder, you can raise that up to 96KHz. And then the D2v upsamples to 192KHz prior to any digital processing.


See Setup > ADC / Output > 2-ch ANLG-DSP in Section 3.9 of the Manual.


The multi-channel analog input uses 96KHz re-digitizing by default.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17629747
> 
> 
> Ok there is definately a bug with zone 2 that im seeing with the d2v. As I stated earlier I noticed when I toggled from my htpc to sat then back I would not get any sound or clicking sound. I have now find that if I turn off the d2v then back on I can recover sound to my htpc from zone 2. Nick says the engineers are looking into this so Im sure they will figure out the problem.



Thanks for following up on this! Please do post when you get a resolution.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17612669
> 
> 
> There are two different things going on here. When you check mark the "Full Range" box, that turns off bass steering from that speaker pair -- no bass from them will be sent to the sub. It's the equivalent of setting them to "Large".
> 
> 
> But ARC still applies a roll off to their response curve as part of its Room Correction solution. That's the 60Hz "cutoff" you are seeing. Since you left the 60Hz cutoff in effect, and also set them to full range, the lowest bass from your LF/RF pair is simply being discarded.
> 
> 
> To correct this, in addition to setting them to "full range", lower their cutoff to the lowest allowed value (25Hz).
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Just to see how the graphs would change, I changed the cut-off of the L/R mains to 25 (from 60 hz previously) and also lowered the subwoofer to 50 (from 115 hz) . The results are shown below. I have NOT uploaded these new computations. The 11-27-09 targets are also show for comparison. Thoughts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/17630628
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Just to see how the graphs would change, I changed the cut-off of the L/R mains to 25 (from 60 hz previously) and also lowered the subwoofer to 50 (from 115 hz) . The results are shown below. I have NOT uploaded these new computations. The 11-27-09 targets are also show for comparison. Thoughts?



Well I doubt this will work very well for you. Dropping the sub like that over-constrains the solution. For example look where the sub crosses 71dB (45Hz). Compare to where the Center crosses 71dB (80Hz). So it will be impossible to achieve the 74dB basic volume level of the solution through the crossover between Center and subwoofer.


And I really don't think your LF/RF speakers are capable of full range operation. Even though ARC believes it can push them up at the lowest frequencies, they are not at all likely to be able to handle that for higher volume bass.


Finally, dropping the subwoofer like that is going to make it harder for ARC to keep from losing the higher end of any content that comes in on the LFE channel. Now admittedly this is a Music configuration, so perhaps that's not important. But this combination of changes don't look wise to me.

--Bob


----------



## ccomhs

Thank you Bob for the warm welcome.


Actually, I am trying to do away with analog altogether (well except for the output of course). I have not really toyed with the audio options on the d2 very much. I am using the computer to digitize everything, I am up sampling to 96/24 and feeding as close to bit perfect unprocessed stream as I can to the D2.


The results are incredible. They were not always incredible. The computer and bit perfect on the same sentence took some trial and error.


thestewman posted on using an external DAC and bypassing the D2 DAC stage altogether. I was tempted to do so several times. I am glad, at least with the information/experience I have gathered to date, that I avoided this temptation. It is not that it would not give great results. Apparently thestewman obtained good results. I just believed the problem was not with the D2's DAC stage (or any other component or part of my system) but rather with the digital stream in itself. This part of the learning process has taken me several months: mac vs win, output drivers, controlling sw, upsampling sw and procedures, digitizing my music etc., discussions best left for digital forums.


A few personal conclusions pertaining to the D2:

a) Computer and bit perfect without jitter is truly a mouthful.

b) The D2v is very sensitive to jitter in the input stream.

c) Jitter reduced from the incoming signal, the D2v has state of the art DAC stage.


Again these are my conclusions and I am open to hear other peoples conclusions. Heck, if an external DAC will give me better sound, I am game. I just feel the D2 can handle this process admirably and I have yet to hear otherwise.


Now it is time to play with D2 options to get the best audio sound. For now, I am enjoying 2 channel stereo or Anthem music (more the former than the latter although they are almost indistinguishable sound wise) with ARC engaged. The sound is incredible.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17630893
> 
> 
> . . .
> 
> b) The D2v is very sensitive to jitter in the input stream.
> 
> . . .



Is this over HDMI? How were you measuring this?

--Bob


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17629747
> 
> 
> Ok there is definately a bug with zone 2 that im seeing with the d2v. As I stated earlier I noticed when I toggled from my htpc to sat then back I would not get any sound or clicking sound. I have now find that if I turn off the d2v then back on I can recover sound to my htpc from zone 2. Nick says the engineers are looking into this so Im sure they will figure out the problem.



I ran into a very similar situation during my system tests (read other posts). The problem was not only with zone 2. Basically, when switching back and forth between digital sources I would often run into the same problem you are having. This seems to happen more often when switching between HDMI signals.


I assume a good part of the problem is with digital protection mechanisms in the digital streams that get messed up when switching.


I contacted Anthem several months ago with this problem. Recently, they sent me an e-mail suggesting I try the new firmware to see what happens. Apparently they reprogrammed the whole digital stage. I have been busy tweaking other parts of my system so I have yet to try their new firmware.


In any case, doing an on off toggle between sources has become pretty much standard for me (give me one thing less to trouble shoot).


In any case, I am so pleased with the general performance of my system that I really have paid very little attention to this issue. However, I am now ready to try the new firmware next weekend and see if this problem is solved.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17630972
> 
> 
> I ran into a very similar situation during my system tests (read other posts). The problem was not only with zone 2. Basically, when switching back and forth between digital sources I would often run into the same problem you are having. This seems to happen more often when switching between HDMI signals.
> 
> 
> I assume a good part of the problem is with digital protection mechanisms in the digital streams that get messed up when switching.
> 
> 
> I contacted Anthem several months ago with this problem. Recently, they sent me an e-mail suggesting I try the new firmware to see what happens. Apparently they reprogrammed the whole digital stage. I have been busy tweaking other parts of my system so I have yet to try their new firmware.
> 
> 
> In any case, doing an on off toggle between sources has become pretty much standard for me (give me one thing less to trouble shoot).
> 
> 
> In any case, I am so pleased with the general performance of my system that I really have paid very little attention to this issue. However, I am now ready to try the new firmware next weekend and see if this problem is solved.



Yes, there are several problems related to this that are fixed in the "official" V2.08 firmware. It's not actually the copy protection stuff that went awry this time, but that's just technicalities of course.


Meanwhile, the problem DLYNCH34 just found is a new one.

--Bob


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17630939
> 
> 
> Is this over HDMI? How were you measuring this?
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob:


My measurements are indirect and not very scientific I must admit. I tried every possible connection (HDMI, COAX, OPTICAL, AES/EBU) from my computer (first a PC then a MAC) with every conceivable driver/music program combination. I was able to get very high quality sound, but not the sound that I was looking for. The system lacked openness and definition. It also showed consistent signs of harshness, if ever so subtle towards the end.

I first upgraded to a HAG/USB USB to AES/EBU converter. The improvement was great, but still not up to audiophile grade in my book.

I started reading about jitter and fancy USB cables that helped in reducing jitter. I tried the AXIS USB and the sound improvement was truly incredible. Yes a cable made a dramatic improvement. So I dug deeper and came across the OffRam3 which claims to re-clock the incoming signal altogether. This paired with a quality AES/EBU cable and boom, I was as close as I could tell to the sound system I was looking for.

I trust the people making the cables and the off-ramp are honest when they say they directly address the jitter problem. In any case, as far as I know, all I have done is reduce jitter in the incoming signal to the D2. The D2 is doing the rest and what a difference this has made.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks for the details!


There should not be a jitter problem over HDMI into the D2v. The D2v reclocks the HDMI input. This is, of course, no guarantee there isn't some other problem.

--Bob


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17631126
> 
> 
> Thanks for the details!
> 
> 
> There should not be a jitter problem over HDMI into the D2v. The D2v reclocks the HDMI input. This is, of course, no guarantee there isn't some other problem.
> 
> --Bob



I did not toy with the HDMI much I must admit. The HDMI audio out on my computer is not necessarily a trust worthy parameter. In any case, the HDMI out on the OPPO is not on the same league as the OffRamp AES hookup for cd music playback. No need to do side by sides, the difference is too obvious.


Money constraints and product availability limited my experimenting options. I decided on a computer based solution to my music listening and took it from there. If I had known that the D2 re-clocks the HDMI signal, I might have gone that route with better HDMI computer audio outs.


In any case, your comment confirms my believe that the problem is in the digital signal and not the D2's DAC weather it be jitter and/or any other.


Does the d2 re-clock any other signal aside from HDMI?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17631429
> 
> 
> I did not toy with the HDMI much I must admit. The HDMI audio out on my computer is not necessarily a trust worthy parameter. In any case, the HDMI out on the OPPO is not on the same league as the OffRamp AES hookup for cd music playback. No need to do side by sides, the difference is too obvious.
> 
> 
> Money constraints and product availability limited my experimenting options. I decided on a computer based solution to my music listening and took it from there. If I had known that the D2 re-clocks the HDMI signal, I might have gone that route with better HDMI computer audio outs.
> 
> 
> In any case, your comment confirms my believe that the problem is in the digital signal and not the D2's DAC weather it be jitter and/or any other.
> 
> 
> Does the d2 re-clock any other signal aside from HDMI?



Not really. The S/PDIF inputs are not capable of being re-clocked that way. To do that you need to set up a master/slave clock link back to the Source as is done in some proprietary solutions.


Now on the Main path, the audio sync delay capability means the audio has to be clocked in for buffering, but that is not quite the same thing as the reclocking that happens when the HDMI audio stream is extracted from the blanking intervals of the HDMI video stream.

--Bob


----------



## Janski

It is good to see discussion on the topic of audio from a computer source. Please note the difference in terms: the D2v's D/A converter output is 24 bit, 192 kHz regardless of input, while the digital media throughput is measured in kbps. (Two different k's) So a higher bit rate (Or lossless) input is not lost on the D2v. With source CD's sampled at 44.1 kHz and the Anthem D/A output capable of above 4x that, (192 kHz) I believe the bit rate in kbps to be the potential weak link.


The 'KHz' refers to the sample rate - that is, the number of times per second a slice of sound is captured. The Kbps refers to the bit rate of the codec. Different codecs have differing efficiencies for a given bit rate as well.


The bit rate also determines the storage capacity. So, you'd do:


Seconds * Bitrate * Channels for an estimate. This is an estimate because stereo doesn't necessarily mean twice the storage due to the way many codecs handle multiple channels. We're measuring the codec in kbps, but we actually want bytes. Simply divide by 8 to determine the storage needed in MB.


I have opted against streaming in my setup. Have found it to be too vulnerable to issues of many natures. Instead, I play my FLAC and WAV content directly (Uncompressed, full quality up to 1440 kbps depending on the CD) from a Windows Server 2008 file server via mapped network drive on a laptop and optical digital out to the D2v. (Or in the back yard or garage or ...) Even a $28 USB Sound Card to give SPDIF out gave quite an enjoyable output. I have only my own material - no downloading.


I see benefit to keeping the signal digital all the way to the D2v. There are superior D/A converters no doubt, but the D2v is plenty good enough for music. The single most important thing for me now is the quality of the captured media. Mid and low bit rates will exhibit a harshness in the mid-high frequencies as they require the most resolution to be reproduced. I feel music sampled at 44.1 kHz has already lost enough information that it ought not be compressed further. (At worst - slightly over 2 instantaneous samples out a 360 degree, 20 kHz sign wave with an offset to mask the effect by sampling different parts of the wave with each pass.)


With a high bit rate (Most CDs are released at over 700 kbps and up to 1440 kbps) via either WAV or FLAC encoding, volume normalization and direct play, I do not experience any degradation in sound from the original source. The mids and highs are nice and smooth. Digital can only approximate analog in terms of resolution. (Analog = infinite res.) This setup has now rendered my Elite players' Legato Link converter obsolete.


If you are considering using a computer as a source, I recommend you take some time to listen to material you know well at different bit rates and standardize your approach from Bit Rate to format to codec to Tag Naming and directory conventions. Then go for it.


----------



## Janski

Hi All,


Regarding the issue I has earlier with my HDMI out #1 displaying a red picture - it was indeed a small board containing both outputs known as the HDMI daughter board. I drove it into Anthem and they fixed it same day. In almost a week now my HDMI has functioned well. (Although sometimes when switching between a source that is HDMI to a source that is component, I see the same red screen for an instant before the correct video displays - a little fear for a moment there...)


Take Care,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/17631794
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> Regarding the issue I has earlier with my HDMI out #1 displaying a red picture - it was indeed a small board containing both outputs known as the HDMI daughter board. I drove it into Anthem and they fixed it same day. In almost a week now my HDMI has functioned well. (Although sometimes when switching between a source that is HDMI to a source that is component, I see the same red screen for an instant before the correct video displays - a little fear for a moment there...)
> 
> 
> Take Care,
> 
> Mike



Have no fear. That's just the video in and out renegotiating the data formats.


You'll have less of that if your use an explicit data format instead of an Auto setting. So for example use Setup > Video Output > Data of YCbCr 4:4:4 instead of Auto for output from the D2v. YCbCr 4:4:4 is typically the default for HDMI to HDMI connections, and thus what you'll end up with if you use Auto. But setting it explicitly gets you there faster.


You may have the ability to set explicit data formats for output from your Sources as well.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17258985
> 
> 
> I manage to replicate the same issue with my setup. I am using a videotron SCI8300HD and when going through the D2V my cable box constantly end-up with a boot msg after power-off. The D2 was not causing such an issue, this is something new with the D2V.
> 
> 
> 
> I will investigate more and let you know about it.



Yesterday I got fed-up and decided to find a solution for this and I did!!!


The solution that I found is to install between the 8300HD and the D2V a HDMI device.


In my case I installed between the 8300HD and the D2V a Gefen HDMI Splitter (1in : 2out). This resolved the 8300HD power off issue. I could now power on and off the system at will without having the box to fall in reboot mode.


This is an ugly solution but it does work.


----------



## husker du




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/17605415
> 
> 
> Well.. Just tried going to a input with no signal (or hdmi assigned to it).
> 
> 
> I loaded the video setting gui, and went to test patterns, then checked my projector to see if deep colour was active..
> 
> 
> And nope..
> 
> 
> I checked status on D2V, and said no signal, with 1080p/24 out..
> 
> 
> I went to the video config in anthem that the output was using, and it was set to HDTV, HDMI, 4:4:4, 1080p/24..
> 
> 
> 
> So not sure what is going on...
> 
> 
> 
> UPDATE WITH NEW BETA FIRMWARE......
> 
> 
> Just tried the new 2.08 nov.20 firmware.. with my windows 7 Ultimate 64bit..
> 
> 
> IT ACTUALLY WORKED....
> 
> 
> With the 2.08 nov.5 firmware, it failed in windows 7 64bit, I had to recover with Virtual XP Mode..
> 
> 
> Cooool..



Did you resolve the deep color issue yet? I too am running an Epson 7500 UB projector with my D2v. I tried what Bob suggested in response to one of your previous posts but am not seeing any deep color signal. Just to be clear, I used a source with no connection to it and brought up the chip GUI, accessed a test pattern and checked the info on both the GUI and projector. GUI is reading no signal "in" and 1920/1080p/60 "out". Deep color on projector shows no value. Have you been in touch with Anthem? Are you running version 109 of firmware for your projector? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17632817
> 
> 
> Yesterday I got fed-up and decided to find a solution for this and I did!!!
> 
> 
> The solution that I found is to install between the 8300HD and the D2V a HDMI device.
> 
> 
> In my case I installed between the 8300HD and the D2V a Gefen HDMI Splitter (1in : 2out). This resolved the 8300HD power off issue. I could now power on and off the system at will without having the box to fall in reboot mode.
> 
> 
> This is an ugly solution but it does work.



I presume you leave that splitter powered on all the time, correct?


This makes sense. From what Nick has told me, it appears the problem is that the 8300 does not properly implement the Hot Plug portion of the HDMI spec -- i.e., what to do if an HDMI connection goes live or goes away while you are powered up. By leaving the splitter in between, the 8300 is not faced with having to do that (the splitter does it instead).


Which specific model of Gefen splitter did you use?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17633361
> 
> 
> Did you resolve the deep color issue yet? I too am running an Epson 7500 UB projector with my D2v. I tried what Bob suggested in response to one of your previous posts but am not seeing any deep color signal. Just to be clear, I used a source with no connection to it and brought up the chip GUI, accessed a test pattern and checked the info on both the GUI and projector. GUI is reading no signal "in" and 1920/1080p/60 "out". Deep color on projector shows no value. Have you been in touch with Anthem? Are you running version 109 of firmware for your projector? Thanks in advance.



Do send Anthem an email with the details. It's possible they may have already had reports about this projector.


Also check in the owner's thread here for your projector to see if there are any settings you need to make in it to enable Deep Color input. It is possible it may not do Deep Color input if you use certain data formats for example (e.g., YCbCr 4:2:2).

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17633668
> 
> 
> I presume you leave that splitter powered on all the time, correct?
> 
> 
> This makes sense. From what Nick has told me, it appears the problem is that the 8300 does not properly implement the Hot Plug portion of the HDMI spec -- i.e., what to do if an HDMI connection goes live or goes away while you are powered up. By leaving the splitter in between, the 8300 is not faced with having to do that (the splitter does it instead).
> 
> 
> Which specific model of Gefen splitter did you use?
> 
> --Bob



Yes that is the intent.


Now I use a splitter but I am sure a HDMI switch would achieve the same result.


----------



## dryeye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17633668
> 
> 
> From what Nick has told me, it appears the problem is that the 8300 does not properly implement the Hot Plug portion of the HDMI spec -- i.e., what to do if an HDMI connection goes live or goes away while you are powered up. --Bob



Bob can you tell me if your OPPO BDP-83 also behaives this way if you switch sources at the Anthem while a bluray disc is playing? I ask because I'm considering buying one to replace my Panasonic BD35 which reacts by stopping the disc when I switch sources. This is a real PITA, esp with all the non skippable damn previews and junk the studios are loading these things up with.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17633899
> 
> 
> Yes that is the intent.
> 
> 
> Now I use a splitter but I am sure a HDMI switch would achieve the same result.



It depends. To fix this it likely needs to be an active, powered device that participates in the handshake with the 8300. A simple mechanical switch would likely not fix it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dryeye* /forum/post/17633916
> 
> 
> Bob can you tell me if your OPPO BDP-83 also behaives this way if you switch sources at the Anthem while a bluray disc is playing? I ask because I'm considering buying one to replace my Panasonic BD35 which reacts by stopping the disc when I switch sources. This is a real PITA, esp with all the non skippable damn previews and junk the studios are loading these things up with.



The Oppo BDP-83 has no such problem.

--Bob


----------



## dryeye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17633942
> 
> 
> The Oppo BDP-83 has no such problem.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you.


----------



## Woodley71

Question for everyone with regards to the best hook up of a D2 and a Pioneer Elite BDP-05FD blu-ray player. I'm assuming that one would use the analog outs of the blu-ray player into the 6.1 analog in of the anthem but how would one ensure that the speakers levels are correct outputted from the blu-ray player.


Also anyone have Bell HDTV satellite hooked up to the D2?? Trying to figure what resolution I should select on the satellite receiver; 480p, 720p, 1081i.


Thanks for your help.


Had the D2 for a while know and still trying to figure it all out.


Cheers,

Woodley71


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17633899
> 
> 
> Yes that is the intent.
> 
> 
> Now I use a splitter but I am sure a HDMI switch would achieve the same result.



Greetings,


Tolstoi, it is so strange that you posted this. I had been considering the same idea and ordered an HDMI splitter last week. It will arrive tomorrow.



> Quote:
> It depends. To fix this it likely needs to be an active, powered device that participates in the handshake with the 8300. A simple mechanical switch would likely not fix it.



The one I ordered is a passive device so I will be able to let you know if it works versus an active one.


I did receive your PM btw..










I will post back tomorrow.


Regards,


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17633925
> 
> 
> It depends. To fix this it likely needs to be an active, powered device that participates in the handshake with the 8300. A simple mechanical switch would likely not fix it.
> 
> --Bob



I mean a HDMI Switch such as a Gefen GTV-HDMI1.3-441.


Someone would have to test that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

So what's the model number of the splitter you used that actually fixed this?

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17634852
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Tolstoi, it is so strange that you posted this. I had been considering the same idea and ordered an HDMI splitter last week. It will arrive tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one I ordered is a passive device so I will be able to let you know if it works versus an active one.
> 
> 
> I did receive your PM btw..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will post back tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Regards,



But if it works a passive device is welcomed since it would reduce the cable mess. Keep us posted.


In the mean time, I have a cheaper monoprice splitter and will test it tonight.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17635589
> 
> 
> So what's the model number of the splitter you used that actually fixed this?
> 
> --Bob



It is a discountinued product: EXT-HDMI-142


The equivalent now is: EXT-HDMI1.3-142


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We should get details on devices that work for this to Nick at Anthem. They know there's nothing they can do in the processor itself to fix the problem in the 8300HD, but if there is a simple workaround with an add-on gadget like this it would be good news.


ETA: That Gefen splitter is a bit spendy to just fix this problem, particularly when the alternate Component/Optical cabling solution works just as well. The trick may be to find the cheapest in-line gadget that fixes this. However I still expect it will have to be a powered gadget that actively participates in the handshake.


The Gefen HDMI Detective is cheaper and might also work.


ETA 2: Hmm, maybe not. The HDMI Detective only uses external power while you are recording the EDID settings.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17635675
> 
> 
> We should get details on devices that work for this to Nick at Anthem. They know there's nothing they can do in the processor itself to fix the problem in the 8300HD, but if there is a simple workaround with an add-on gadget like this it would be good news.
> 
> 
> ETA: That Gefen splitter is a bit spendy to just fix this problem, particularly when the alternate Component/Optical cabling solution works just as well. The trick may be to find the cheapest in-line gadget that fixes this. However I still expect it will have to be a powered gadget that actively participates in the handshake.
> 
> 
> The Gefen HDMI Detective is cheaper and might also work.
> 
> 
> ETA 2: Hmm, maybe not. The HDMI Detective only uses external power while you are recording the EDID settings.
> 
> --Bob



Nick was the first to be advised about this fix.


This is why I will test my Monoprice Splitter, 60$ intead of 300$.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17635675
> 
> 
> We should get details on devices that work for this to Nick at Anthem. They know there's nothing they can do in the processor itself to fix the problem in the 8300HD, but if there is a simple workaround with an add-on gadget like this it would be good news.
> 
> 
> ETA: That Gefen splitter is a bit spendy to just fix this problem, particularly when the alternate Component/Optical cabling solution works just as well. The trick may be to find the cheapest in-line gadget that fixes this. However I still expect it will have to be a powered gadget that actively participates in the handshake.
> 
> 
> The Gefen HDMI Detective is cheaper and might also work.
> 
> 
> ETA 2: Hmm, maybe not. The HDMI Detective only uses external power while you are recording the EDID settings.
> 
> --Bob



I have been using the OPPO HM-31 Advanced HDMI 1.3 and 1080p Switch for switching between two OPPO disc players and two Popcorn Hour devices. Never had any problems. Some one should try it with the 8300HD as it sells for less than $100.00 US.


----------



## Halo_Master

I tried to read all the posts, but this thread is HUGE!

I have a few questions.


I gathered that doing a double upgrade from a statement D1 to a D2V would be around $3000.


what is the price of upgrading a avm50 to a avm50v?

what is the price of upgrading a D2 to a D2V?


Can a avm30 or avm40 also be upgraded to a avm50? What would be the price?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's been a while since we got any reports on the pricing for these, so I'm not sure we really have current info any more. Note that moving to a D2v or AVM 50v is actually a trade-in rather than an upgrade. So what you end up with is a completely new unit.


Someone may be able to post the answers if they've recently asked the question. Otherwise the easiest thing to do would be to call Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dryeye* /forum/post/17633916
> 
> 
> Bob can you tell me if your OPPO BDP-83 also behaives this way if you switch sources at the Anthem while a bluray disc is playing? I ask because I'm considering buying one to replace my Panasonic BD35 which reacts by stopping the disc when I switch sources. This is a real PITA, esp with all the non skippable damn previews and junk the studios are loading these things up with.



FWIW: I have the same BD35, hooked to my D2, and i can _fast forward_ through all the coming attractions, et. al.









also - when i switch from sat to bd and back to sat, the bd continues to operate.









the panny is hdmi and the sat is component.

again, my results may not be typical.

walt


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17631809
> 
> 
> Have no fear. That's just the video in and out renegotiating the data formats.
> 
> 
> You'll have less of that if your use an explicit data format instead of an Auto setting. So for example use Setup > Video Output > Data of YCbCr 4:4:4 instead of Auto for output from the D2v. YCbCr 4:4:4 is typically the default for HDMI to HDMI connections, and thus what you'll end up with if you use Auto. But setting it explicitly gets you there faster.
> 
> 
> You may have the ability to set explicit data formats for output from your Sources as well.
> 
> --Bob



I do not know if this is related or not. I have my mac hooked up tp the D2v through HDMI (no audio just video - dvi to hdmi converter). I get a red pinkish hue on the screen image. If I change something/anything on the HDMI output configuration menu, the screen goes normal. This only happens to the mac hook up and I have switched HDMI ports. I have also tried different HDMI output configurations, but it I still get a funny hue on my image until I resent something/anything on the HDMI configuration menu.

Any thoughts?


----------



## husker du




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17633709
> 
> 
> Do send Anthem an email with the details. It's possible they may have already had reports about this projector.
> 
> 
> Also check in the owner's thread here for your projector to see if there are any settings you need to make in it to enable Deep Color input. It is possible it may not do Deep Color input if you use certain data formats for example (e.g., YCbCr 4:2:2).
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I can't find anything on the AVS forums re a setting on the projector that will enable deep color. I've informed Anthem, Piero suggested I contact Epson. I did that but so far they are no help (the first tech was not familiar with the deep color capabilities of the projector nor with the term "deep color"). If I connect my PS3 directly to the projector, will that tell me anything i.e. will it eliminate the D2v as the issue for certain? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17637922
> 
> 
> I do not know if this is related or not. I have my mac hooked up tp the D2v through HDMI (no audio just video - dvi to hdmi converter). I get a red pinkish hue on the screen image. If I change something/anything on the HDMI output configuration menu, the screen goes normal. This only happens to the mac hook up and I have switched HDMI ports. I have also tried different HDMI output configurations, but it I still get a funny hue on my image until I resent something/anything on the HDMI configuration menu.
> 
> Any thoughts?



Sure, that's a handshake failure typical of a disagreement as to whether RGB or YCbCr data format is going to be used. For some reason the D2v is expecting the Mac to send RGB and it is actually sending YCbCr. This is what's called "shocking pink" video. If it gets confused the other way it becomes "ghastly green".


When you make a change in the HDMI output a new handshake is forced and it gets it right the second time.


At a guess the Mac is changing formats as you start things up and that's what's confusing stuff. When you force the new handshake it is already set on what it wants to do so the problem doesn't arrise.


You can also force a new handshake by switching the D2v to any other input device and back.


------------------------------------


Which version of Anthem firmware are you running? There are fixes related to Mac stuff in D2v / AVM 50v firmware V2.08 (affects Mac Mini and AppleTV use).


If the Mac HDMI output can be set to use an explicit data format (such as YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of Auto, that should also eliminate this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17637938
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I can't find anything on the AVS forums re a setting on the projector that will enable deep color. I've informed Anthem, Piero suggested I contact Epson. I did that but so far they are no help (the first tech was not familiar with the deep color capabilities of the projector nor with the term "deep color"). If I connect my PS3 directly to the projector, will that tell me anything i.e. will it eliminate the D2v as the issue for certain? Thanks in advance.



Yes the PS3 will send up to 36-bit Deep Color to a display that says it will accept that.


There are no settings you need to make in the PS3 to enable this, just as there are none in the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Halo_Master* /forum/post/17636330
> 
> 
> I gathered that doing a double upgrade from a statement D1 to a D2V would be around $3000.



I'm curious about this too but as I recall, the trade in of a D2 for a D2v would be about $4000 so I would think the D1 trade in would be a little more. I don't think I'm going to bother, my D2 does everything I need so I'm not sure what it would really buy me to trade it for the D2v. True HD is about all I can see that it would get me and I could use the player's true HD for that but haven't bothered to do it. I don't need it for music because I use analog direct anyway.


I think there would be a lot of connectivity advantages for you to trade your D1 for a D2v or even just a D2 so in your case I can see it being worth it. For me maybe by the time a "D3" comes out I'll be ready for an upgrade.


mk


----------



## Texas steve

I have commented on this previously. I had the exact same thing NOT using the D2v but as follows:
two different TVs (one 720P one 1080P 24)
Sat receiver HDMI out to a splitter - one of split to D2V/1080, other split out directly to 720P TV

Every once in awhile the 720 would turn pinkish as you described. Remember it is NOT connected to the D2v in any way (but the HDMI port 1 on the splitter (1080P) is prime (sets the EDID tag) and port two on the splitter (720P) follows/mirrors the prime.


Therefore I believe it is simply the two resolutions going to battle and occasionally it causes the 720 to go pink.


So I believe your issue is two different displays and their resolutions are causing the problem, I dont believe it has anything to do with the D2v.






> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17637922
> 
> 
> I do not know if this is related or not. I have my mac hooked up tp the D2v through HDMI (no audio just video - dvi to hdmi converter). I get a red pinkish hue on the screen image. If I change something/anything on the HDMI output configuration menu, the screen goes normal. This only happens to the mac hook up and I have switched HDMI ports. I have also tried different HDMI output configurations, but it I still get a funny hue on my image until I resent something/anything on the HDMI configuration menu.
> 
> Any thoughts?


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/17639540
> 
> 
> I'm curious about this too but as I recall, the trade in of a D2 for a D2v would be about $4000 so I would think the D1 trade in would be a little more. I don't think I'm going to bother, my D2 does everything I need so I'm not sure what it would really buy me to trade it for the D2v. True HD is about all I can see that it would get me and I could use the player's true HD for that but haven't bothered to do it. I don't need it for music because I use analog direct anyway.
> 
> 
> I think there would be a lot of connectivity advantages for you to trade your D1 for a D2v or even just a D2 so in your case I can see it being worth it. For me maybe by the time a "D3" comes out I'll be ready for an upgrade.
> 
> 
> mk



D3? confirmed or rumor?


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *osofast240sx* /forum/post/17640570
> 
> 
> D? confirmed or rumor?



Neither, just the hypothetical next step. I just don't see a reason to upgrade from my D2 to the D2v so I'll wait and possibly upgrade when what ever comes out next.


mk


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17638000
> 
> 
> Sure, that's a handshake failure typical of a disagreement as to whether RGB or YCbCr data format is going to be used. For some reason the D2v is expecting the Mac to send RGB and it is actually sending YCbCr. This is what's called "shocking pink" video. If it gets confused the other way it becomes "ghastly green".
> 
> 
> When you make a change in the HDMI output a new handshake is forced and it gets it right the second time.
> 
> 
> At a guess the Mac is changing formats as you start things up and that's what's confusing stuff. When you force the new handshake it is already set on what it wants to do so the problem doesn't arrise.
> 
> 
> You can also force a new handshake by switching the D2v to any other input device and back.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Which version of Anthem firmware are you running? There are fixes related to Mac stuff in D2v / AVM 50v firmware V2.08 (affects Mac Mini and AppleTV use).
> 
> 
> If the Mac HDMI output can be set to use an explicit data format (such as YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of Auto, that should also eliminate this.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob. I will try new firmware and setting recommendation.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17635675
> 
> 
> We should get details on devices that work for this to Nick at Anthem. They know there's nothing they can do in the processor itself to fix the problem in the 8300HD, but if there is a simple workaround with an add-on gadget like this it would be good news.
> 
> 
> ETA: That Gefen splitter is a bit spendy to just fix this problem, particularly when the alternate Component/Optical cabling solution works just as well. The trick may be to find the cheapest in-line gadget that fixes this. However I still expect it will have to be a powered gadget that actively participates in the handshake.
> 
> 
> The Gefen HDMI Detective is cheaper and might also work.
> 
> 
> ETA 2: Hmm, maybe not. The HDMI Detective only uses external power while you are recording the EDID settings.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


I purchased this switcher HDMI switcher from Parts Express.com for $20 (normally $40 but 50% off on a special) and it works perfectly as my 8300HD no longer goes into the reboot state when I power off the Anthem.


This is highly recommended for those who wish to use HDMI with the Anthem/SA8300HD combo.



Regards,


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17639947
> 
> 
> I have commented on this previously. I had the exact same thing NOT using the D2v but as follows:
> two different TVs (one 720P one 1080P 24)
> Sat receiver HDMI out to a splitter - one of split to D2V/1080, other split out directly to 720P TV
> 
> Every once in awhile the 720 would turn pinkish as you described. Remember it is NOT connected to the D2v in any way (but the HDMI port 1 on the splitter (1080P) is prime (sets the EDID tag) and port two on the splitter (720P) follows/mirrors the prime.
> 
> 
> Therefore I believe it is simply the two resolutions going to battle and occasionally it causes the 720 to go pink.
> 
> 
> So I believe your issue is two different displays and their resolutions are causing the problem, I dont believe it has anything to do with the D2v.



Thank you for your comments. I will disengage other inputs on the TV side to see if the resolution mating problem is on the D2 side or on the TV side. I only have one monitor connected (my TV) with multiple inputs (SAT DIRECT and D2). The D2 defaults to 720p when the mac is hooked up no matter what. In any case, once the image coloration is reset to normal, the image quality is on par with any 1080p image, even if the D2 registers a 720p signal.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17641981
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I purchased this switcher HDMI switcher from Parts Express.com for $20 (normally $40 but 50% off on a special) and it works perfectly as my 8300HD no longer goes into the reboot state when I power off the Anthem.
> 
> 
> This is highly recommended for those who wish to use HDMI with the Anthem/SA8300HD combo.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



That's pretty cool! Apparently it is drawing power from whatever HDMI is plugged into it (to turn on its indicator lights or whatever).


There's probably a cookie to be had out of this. I think TOLSTOI should get a cookie for discovering the possibility and Ralph as well for proving that it can be done for about the cost of a cable!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ralph,

The comments on that HDMI switch indicate that the Center input socket is special -- the default selected input. Did you find you had to use that one to get the fix to work, or did it work with any of the inputs.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17642861
> 
> 
> Ralph,
> 
> The comments on that HDMI switch indicate that the Center input socket is special -- the default selected input. Did you find you had to use that one to get the fix to work, or did it work with any of the inputs.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Unknown Bob. I just connected it to the center input and didn't try the others. I know that when multiple devices are connected and powered down it defaults back to the center socket.



Regards,


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17642764
> 
> 
> That's pretty cool! Apparently it is drawing power from whatever HDMI is plugged into it (to turn on its indicator lights or whatever).
> 
> 
> There's probably a cookie to be had out of this. I think TOLSTOI should get a cookie for discovering the possibility and Ralph as well for proving that it can be done for about the cost of a cable!
> 
> --Bob



Yes, cookies all around for this one. No more component cables!


----------



## fuzzybk

Bob, I changed my Video output as you suggested. Setup > Video Output > Data of YCbCr 4:4:4 instead of Auto for output from the AVM 50v. After doing this will I have to recalibrate my picture with Digital Video Essentials (Blu Ray)?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Woodley71* /forum/post/17634294
> 
> 
> 
> Also anyone have Bell HDTV satellite hooked up to the D2?? Trying to figure what resolution I should select on the satellite receiver; 480p, 720p, 1081i.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> 
> Had the D2 for a while know and still trying to figure it all out.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Woodley71



I have Bell's 9242 feeding a D2v. I have my 9242 set to 720p. Bell, for the most part outputs 720p except for a few channels. Unfortunately, Bell does not have an auto setting which would always output the native resolution so 720 is the best compromise.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/17645777
> 
> 
> Bob, I changed my Video output as you suggested. Setup > Video Output > Data of YCbCr 4:4:4 instead of Auto for output from the AVM 50v. After doing this will I have to recalibrate my picture with Digital Video Essentials (Blu Ray)?



Whenever you make a change in video setup it is wise to doublecheck your video calibration. However, for an HDMI to HDMI connection, Auto should yield YCbCr 4:4:4 anyway (just taking a little more effort to get there). So odds are you won't see any change in video levels.

--Bob


----------



## mvppsu

I am currently using a Denon Receiver as a pre-pro for HT use, and a Parasound 2100 2 channel preamp with HT bypass for 2 channel music. The Parasound preamp is fed by a PS Audio Digital Link III DAC decoding the output of an apple tv.


I am considering picking up a slightly used Anthem D2 with ARC to replace the Denon receiver, PS Audio DAC, and Parasound Pre-amp. This would improve my HT sound and eliminate a lot of boxes and wires. My question is, would I be sacrificing sound quality for 2 channel music?


I am using Paradigm Signature S2v2's and 2 Rythmik F15 subwoofers.


----------



## WildZero

I just wanted to write a big THANK YOU to everbody who participates in this fantastic thread.

Especially to Bob! The knowledge of some guys here is just incredible. I learned a lot and i am

sure i would not have gotten the best out of my D2v without it.










Will post my ARC results soon, hopefully i will have time on the weekend to do this. I have

a very weird room...


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/17646553
> 
> 
> I am currently using a Denon Receiver as a pre-pro for HT use, and a Parasound 2100 2 channel preamp with HT bypass for 2 channel music. The Parasound preamp is fed by a PS Audio Digital Link III DAC decoding the output of an apple tv.
> 
> 
> I am considering picking up a slightly used Anthem D2 with ARC to replace the Denon receiver, PS Audio DAC, and Parasound Pre-amp. This would improve my HT sound and eliminate a lot of boxes and wires. My question is, would I be sacrificing sound quality for 2 channel music?
> 
> 
> I am using Paradigm Signature S2v2's and 2 Rythmik F15 subwoofers.



I guess the question is relative to what you have right now, which only you can answer. Your S2V2s are on the small side and likely do not extend down into the range that your sub does. Is your sub connected and driven when in HT Bypass? If not, the D2 will give you the opportunity to connect the sub for 2 channel listening and should be better than the Denon in this regards...


I have an AVM-50 w/ arc and a PS Audio GCC-250 set up as a 2 channel HT Bypass control amp. I feed the GCC via a PS Audio PWD/PWT combination. My main speakers are Paradigm Studio 100v2. The HT Bypass is definitely better sounding than my Anthem for high res music, but only marginally for CD music. Computer based CD or below music sounds better via the AVM-50 w/ arc.


I must say that arc is fantastic. It alone is worth changing from the Denon to the D2, even if you end up keeping the HT Bypass set-up for 2 channel...


Not a good comparison for you as the PWD/PWT combination is in a league of its own that almost nothing can compare to as a 2 channel DAC. Also, I have an AVM-50 instead of a D2, and my speakers are full size, but not Signatures...


Ed


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/17647101
> 
> 
> I guess the question is relative to what you have right now, which only you can answer. Your S2V2s are on the small side and likely do not extend down into the range that your sub does. Is your sub connected and driven when in HT Bypass? If not, the D2 will give you the opportunity to connect the sub for 2 channel listening and should be better than the Denon in this regards...
> 
> 
> I have an AVM-50 w/ arc and a PS Audio GCC-250 set up as a 2 channel HT Bypass control amp. I feed the GCC via a PS Audio PWD/PWT combination. My main speakers are Paradigm Studio 100v2. The HT Bypass is definitely better sounding than my Anthem for high res music, but only marginally for CD music. Computer based CD or below music sounds better via the AVM-50 w/ arc.
> 
> 
> I must say that arc is fantastic. It alone is worth changing from the Denon to the D2, even if you end up keeping the HT Bypass set-up for 2 channel...
> 
> 
> Not a good comparison for you as the PWD/PWT combination is in a league of its own that almost nothing can compare to as a 2 channel DAC. Also, I have an AVM-50 instead of a D2, and my speakers are full size, but not Signatures...
> 
> 
> Ed



Right now for bass management, my 2 channel pre-amp has a fixed 80hz HP crossover and adjustable LP for the sub. I also have a Velodyne SMS-1 that I use to EQ the subs for the 2 channel and surround system. I feel that the fixed 80hz HP is likely giving me a less than ideal blend between sub/sat. I think the crossover should be around 65Hz or so. I also have a bit of a hump around 100hz that I have no way to get rid of with the current setup. These are things I am pretty sure the D2 would help me with. Another benefit of upgrading to the D2 is that I will easily be able to switch between using the subs and not. Sometimes I like to listen to the S2's full range, but this currently requires me to physically change from the HP to Full Range preamp outputs.


I am more concerned with loosing the excellent soundstage and imaging that the PS Audio DAC and preamp give me. As just an analog 2 channel preamp, I would guess that the D2 can easily replace the parasound preamp I'm using. Its the DAC section I'm more worried about. Right now there is a drastic difference between the PS Audio DAC and that of the Denon. With the Denon you can tell there are 2 speakers playing, with the PS Audio DAC the speakers completely disapear. The Denon is a 2809Ci. My previous Marantz SR5003 receiver was much better than the Denon, but still not quite as good as the 2 channel system. I replaced it due to some reliability issues and lip sync problems.


The DAC is level III modified by Cullen if anyone is familiar with this unit. I have not actually compared the standard DLIII to the modified DLIII in my own system so I don't know how much of a difference this actually makes.


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> I am currently using a Denon Receiver as a pre-pro for HT use, and a Parasound 2100 2 channel preamp with HT bypass for 2 channel music. The Parasound preamp is fed by a PS Audio Digital Link III DAC decoding the output of an apple tv.
> 
> 
> I am considering picking up a slightly used Anthem D2 with ARC to replace the Denon receiver, PS Audio DAC, and Parasound Pre-amp. This would improve my HT sound and eliminate a lot of boxes and wires. My question is, would I be sacrificing sound quality for 2 channel music?
> 
> 
> I am using Paradigm Signature S2v2's and 2 Rythmik F15 subwoofers



Soundwise, I'm using the D2v as my preamplifier as well WITH ARC. I have dSC P8i CD player, BAT VK 75 SE valve amp, Burmester B50 loudspeakers and NORDOST cables (Tyr/Valhalla). The very slightly less dynamic performance, introducing the D2v in the chain (the P8i has a volume control), is clearly outperformed by the combo of D2v and ARC. It is THAT good. However, I checked the performance of its internal DAC, and that one is still significantly inferior to the RING DAC in the P8i. All cabling are balanced.


erikno


----------



## mvppsu

One more question regarding ARC. Would ARC completly replace the need for the Velodyne SMS-1? I have 2 subs, but my understanding is that ARC would treat them as one sub the same way the SMS-1 does now.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17641981
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I purchased this switcher HDMI switcher from Parts Express.com for $20 (normally $40 but 50% off on a special) and it works perfectly as my 8300HD no longer goes into the reboot state when I power off the Anthem.
> 
> 
> This is highly recommended for those who wish to use HDMI with the Anthem/SA8300HD combo.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Yesterday I tested my cheap Monoprice HDMI Splitter (60$) and only the video was working. For the audio I needed to revert to a coaxial connection. But the 8300HD was solid with no reboot.


I prefer your solution since it takes a lot less space and reduce the cable mess.


When you say it’s working, is it also working with the Audio over HDMI?


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17647201
> 
> 
> Soundwise, I'm using the D2v as my preamplifier as well WITH ARC. I have dSC P8i CD player, BAT VK 75 SE valve amp, Burmester B50 loudspeakers and NORDOST cables (Tyr/Valhalla). The very slightly less dynamic performance, introducing the D2v in the chain (the P8i has a volume control), is clearly outperformed by the combo of D2v and ARC. It is THAT good. However, I checked the performance of its internal DAC, and that one is still significantly inferior to the RING DAC in the P8i. All cabling are balanced.
> 
> 
> erikno



It looks like the dSC may have a slightly better DAC than my PS Audio DLIII, but its hard to tell without listening. I would say playing a CD on the dSC is probably noticebly better than my method of streaming lossless AAC files via the Apple TV though.


It is interesting that you are feeding the analog output from the dSC into the D2v which is then re-digitizing it to perform ARC and then converting back to analog again. You say that this is only slightly degraded from straight analog from the dSC and significantly better than digital from the dSC to D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/17647209
> 
> 
> One more question regarding ARC. Would ARC completly replace the need for the Velodyne SMS-1? I have 2 subs, but my understanding is that ARC would treat them as one sub the same way the SMS-1 does now.



If your 2 subs each have their own Phase/Polarity and Volume controls then likely yes, you can eliminate the SMS-1.


There are 4 sub outputs on the Anthem (2 RCA and 2 XLR) that always put out the identical signal, except for the standard 6dB volume difference between RCA and XLR. So the controls inside the Anthem can not adjust separately for each sub.


To use with ARC you set up the volume and Phase/Polarity for each sub separately using the controls in each sub, and then ARC hears them playing together and adjusts for them as one "combo" sub.


You would start by disabling any crossover processing, filters, or EQ stuff in the subs -- and in the SMS-1 if still connected. ARC will most likely be able to do the entire EQ job and so no need for the extra processing step in the SMS-1.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/17646880
> 
> 
> I just wanted to write a big THANK YOU to everbody who participates in this fantastic thread.
> 
> Especially to Bob! The knowledge of some guys here is just incredible. I learned a lot and i am
> 
> sure i would not have gotten the best out of my D2v without it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will post my ARC results soon, hopefully i will have time on the weekend to do this. I have
> 
> a very weird room...



We here at "Bob Pariseau" thank you for your kind words!


Weird rooms can be a challenge. Just take things a step at a time.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17647259
> 
> 
> Yesterday I tested my cheap Monoprice HDMI Splitter (60$) and only the video was working. For the audio I needed to revert to a coaxial connection. But the 8300HD was solid with no reboot.
> 
> 
> I prefer your solution since it takes a lot less space and reduce the cable mess.
> 
> 
> When you say it's working, is it also working with the Audio over HDMI?



Greetings,


Yes it works fine with both audio/video. If you have to use a coaxial cable for the audio you might as well stick with the component option. This switcher is fairly sturdy in construction and for the price makes for an excellent solution to this issue.



Regards,


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17649103
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Yes it works fine with both audio/video. If you have to use a coaxial cable for the audio you might as well stick with the component option. This switcher is fairly sturdy in construction and for the price makes for an excellent solution to this issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



got the audio working perfectly with my gefen splitter but is way too expensive a solution for most people on this forum (300$) and its big and ugly (silver with blue cables and power supply, yuk). I was hoping for the monoprice solution to work 100% and it did not. I Need to keep my gefen splitter for their its main purpose, projector evaluation.


Conclusion, I just ordered your solution I will get it in a few days


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17649668
> 
> 
> got the audio working perfectly with my gefen splitter but is way too expensive a solution for most people on this forum (300$) and its big and ugly (silver with blue cables and power supply, yuk). I was hoping for the monoprice solution to work 100% and it did not. I Need to keep my gefen splitter for their its main purpose, projector evaluation.
> 
> 
> Conclusion, I just ordered your solution I will get it in a few days



Greetings,


Cool beans..











Cheers,


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17636494
> 
> 
> It's been a while since we got any reports on the pricing for these, so I'm not sure we really have current info any more. Note that moving to a D2v or AVM 50v is actually a trade-in rather than an upgrade. So what you end up with is a completely new unit.
> 
> 
> Someone may be able to post the answers if they've recently asked the question. Otherwise the easiest thing to do would be to call Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



In August I received the following from Ferrari:


"Cost for a D2 to a D2v is $4299 and if you have an ARC kit with your current D2 you pay $3899."


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Those would be US$ prices, correct?

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17650723
> 
> 
> Those would be US$ prices, correct?
> 
> --Bob



US$ or CDN$ price it doesn't matter anymore.


----------



## mvppsu

I stopped in my local dealer's store today and they have a D2 floor model that they are trying to sell. It is v1.0, no ARC, and has been the display model for at least 2 years. The sticker on it says $7499. I told the salesman I didn't think the D2 ever sold for that much. When he checked the computer he said that the origonal MSRP was $6999. He is trying to sell it for $4400 but told me to make an offer. I may go back in tomorrow and do that but I wanted to do some more research first.


When did Anthem start selling the D2?

When did they start selling the D2V?

What was the MSRP of the D2 when they stopped selling it? Did this include ARC? (I'm pretty sure this was included toward the end of the run)

Do floor models come with the full 3 year warranty? I found the answer to this in the manual. Warranty starts on date of dealer invoice. So this unit is out of warranty even though sold by the dealer.

Can the ARC kits being sold on ebay be easily added onto this unit? I'm an electrical engineer, but noticed the ones being sold say AVM50 on the box.

How reliable is the D2? I figure I'll get a lot of responses to this, but I'm a bit worried that this unit has been used pretty regularly for over 2 years already.


Depending on some of these answers I may go back and make an offer tomorrow, it will be significantly lower than $4400 though.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/17651618
> 
> 
> I stopped in my local dealer's store today and they have a D2 floor model that they are trying to sell. It is v1.0, no ARC, and has been the display model for at least 2 years. The sticker on it says $7499. I told the salesman I didn't think the D2 ever sold for that much. When he checked the computer he said that the origonal MSRP was $6999. He is trying to sell it for $4400 but told me to make an offer. I may go back in tomorrow and do that but I wanted to do some more research first.
> 
> 
> When did Anthem start selling the D2?
> 
> When did they start selling the D2V?
> 
> What was the MSRP of the D2 when they stopped selling it? Did this include ARC? (I'm pretty sure this was included toward the end of the run)
> 
> Do floor models come with the full 3 year warranty? I found the answer to this in the manual. Warranty starts on date of dealer invoice. So this unit is out of warranty even though sold by the dealer.
> 
> Can the ARC kits being sold on ebay be easily added onto this unit? I'm an electrical engineer, but noticed the ones being sold say AVM50 on the box.
> 
> How reliable is the D2? I figure I'll get a lot of responses to this, but I'm a bit worried that this unit has been used pretty regularly for over 2 years already.
> 
> 
> Depending on some of these answers I may go back and make an offer tomorrow, it will be significantly lower than $4400 though.



Anthem started selling the D2 in spring of 2006. Anthem started selling the D2v at the beginning of this year.


The MSRP of the D2 when they stopped selling it was $7500, but that included ARC. The price pre-ARC was $7000.


The D2 is quite reliable. If the audio and video are working in the store odds are it is fine.


The ARC upgrade for the D2 involves no hardware changes. You simply bring the D2 up to the current firmware (free from the Anthem site) and install the ARC application on the Windows PC you are going to use for the ARC setup. The ARC application is sold with licensing files that enable its use. The licensing files ARE KEYED BY SERIAL NUMBER TO THE ANTHEM PROCESSOR. This means you can't use somebody else's ARC kit on your unit.


Each ARC kit comes with an individually calibrated ARC mic and a calibration data file unique to that mic. This means you need an ARC install kit that is serialized both to your Anthem processor and a specific ARC mic.


[The ARC upgrade for the AVM 50 is different. It requires changing out a board in the unit. This is something that can be done in the field. The ARC upgrade for the AVM 50 costs about $400 more than the one for the D2 due to the hardware change.]


The D2v comes bundled with ARC, as does the AVM 50v.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Invoice to Dealer or Dealers invoice to customer? I would be surprised if a floor model in the showroom did not have three years of warranty when it was sold to you. Really if the dealer can not offer you any warranty what advantage does he have over third party other than providing a way to pay taxes?


AudiogoN has several with ARC for less than the 4,400 you were quoted.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/17651618
> 
> 
> I stopped in my local dealer's store today and they have a D2 floor model that they are trying to sell. It is v1.0, no ARC, and has been the display model for at least 2 years. The sticker on it says $7499. I told the salesman I didn't think the D2 ever sold for that much. When he checked the computer he said that the origonal MSRP was $6999. He is trying to sell it for $4400 but told me to make an offer. I may go back in tomorrow and do that but I wanted to do some more research first.
> 
> 
> When did Anthem start selling the D2?
> 
> When did they start selling the D2V?
> 
> What was the MSRP of the D2 when they stopped selling it? Did this include ARC? (I'm pretty sure this was included toward the end of the run)
> 
> Do floor models come with the full 3 year warranty? I found the answer to this in the manual. Warranty starts on date of dealer invoice. So this unit is out of warranty even though sold by the dealer.
> 
> Can the ARC kits being sold on ebay be easily added onto this unit? I'm an electrical engineer, but noticed the ones being sold say AVM50 on the box.
> 
> How reliable is the D2? I figure I'll get a lot of responses to this, but I'm a bit worried that this unit has been used pretty regularly for over 2 years already.
> 
> 
> Depending on some of these answers I may go back and make an offer tomorrow, it will be significantly lower than $4400 though.


----------



## Milt99

mvppsu,

Look at Audiogon for guidance on D2 pricing.

Considering you can get a D2 w\\ARC still under warranty for $3400 to $3800 here's what I would do:

Offer them $3500 which is to include ARC, the latest firmware installed and a 1 year warranty or at least a 90 day warranty.

To me that is a fair deal for both parties and it protects you from any issues for a reasonable amount of time.

Try to ascertain if the D2 has the red board as well as it is newer and will also have the updated power supply.

Edit: I see VBB offered similar advice while I was making a cocktail.


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/17652972
> 
> 
> Invoice to Dealer or Dealers invoice to customer? I would be surprised if a floor model in the showroom did not have three years of warranty when it was sold to you. Really if the dealer can not offer you any warranty what advantage does he have over third party other than providing a way to pay taxes?
> 
> 
> AudiogoN has several with ARC for less than the 4,400 you were quoted.



If you read the last page of the owners manual (available on the Anthem site) it says that if the unit is used as a floor model then the warranty period begins on the day of the dealer invoice. I agree its kind of dum and opposite of every other manufacturer. And yes, without a warranty the dealer has no advantage. I can get one on Audiogon for a little over $3000 with ARC, so my offer to the dealer would be less than that. I'm betting they will not go that low. They don't seem very knowledgable about the product at all. The salesman didn't even know that the D2 was a discontinued model when I asked about it. The other thing about the warranty that bothered me is that Anthem states it is only valid at the dealer that you purchased it from. I will likely be moving in a few months so that makes warranty claims very cumbersome. For supposedly having great customer service, their warranty policy kinda sucks for a unit this expensive.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is no problem getting warranty service direct from Anthem so long as you have the receipt showing you purchased it from an authorized dealer.

--Bob


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> It is interesting that you are feeding the analog output from the dSC into the D2v which is then re-digitizing it to perform ARC and then converting back to analog again. You say that this is only slightly degraded from straight analog from the dSC and significantly better than digital from the dSC to D2.



Yes, funny isn't it! I really believed feeding the digital signal direct (with a god balanced AES cable) from the dSC to the D2v, would be great. Of course it sounds good, but the converting happening in the dSC (being a world class leader in producing DAC's) is significantly better, no questions. So the "double" converting, since I use the DSP in the D2v, still gives me a better sound. I believe that is due to the starting point being very good.


erikno


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17647201
> 
> 
> Soundwise, I'm using the D2v as my preamplifier as well WITH ARC. I have dSC P8i CD player, BAT VK 75 SE valve amp, Burmester B50 loudspeakers and NORDOST cables (Tyr/Valhalla). The very slightly less dynamic performance, introducing the D2v in the chain (the P8i has a volume control), is clearly outperformed by the combo of D2v and ARC. It is THAT good. However, I checked the performance of its internal DAC, and that one is still significantly inferior to the RING DAC in the P8i. All cabling are balanced.
> 
> 
> erikno



Hi erikno. Thanks for the input. Anyone else that can compare the internal DACS on the D2v with extarnal DAC solutions? I put a reclocker (OffRamp3 Ultraclock) between a computer and the D2v and the sound improvement has been incredible. I am trying to see if the added cost of an extarnal DAC is going to make a difference or not. Here in mexico, it is not very easy to set up comparisons so any input is appreciated.


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17653019
> 
> 
> mvppsu,
> 
> Look at Audiogon for guidance on D2 pricing.
> 
> Considering you can get a D2 w\\ARC still under warranty for $3400 to $3800 here's what I would do:
> 
> Offer them $3500 which is to include ARC, the latest firmware installed and a 1 year warranty or at least a 90 day warranty.
> 
> To me that is a fair deal for both parties and it protects you from any issues for a reasonable amount of time.
> 
> Try to ascertain if the D2 has the red board as well as it is newer and will also have the updated power supply.
> 
> Edit: I see VBB offered similar advice while I was making a cocktail.



Where do I look for the red board? Is this the video board providing the HDMI connections on the back? Does the red board have better physical HDMI ports as well as fixing the heat problem? I read about both of those issues earlier in the thread. My guess is that this unit is one of the origonals. The box has a sticker over what used to say "D1". The sticker says "D2" and then "1.0".


Never mind, I found a post that had a picture!


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I tried to update using a new windows 7 laptop, it didn't work. My old adapter, not keyspan, never had a problem on xp machine, so I went looking for the keyspan.


I don't see how this keyspan adapter connects to the D2v. They both have the female nut connectors.


What am I missing?


Has anyone successfully updated using windows 7?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/17656904
> 
> 
> I tried to update using a new windows 7 laptop, it didn't work. My old adapter, not keyspan, never had a problem on xp machine, so I went looking for the keyspan.
> 
> 
> I don't see how this keyspan adapter connects to the D2v. They both have the female nut connectors.
> 
> 
> What am I missing?
> 
> 
> Has anyone successfully updated using windows 7?



Plug the Keyspan directly into the USB port on your computer.


Run a "straight-through" serial cable from the Keyspan to the back of the D2v. A "straight-through" serial cable is one where pins 1-9 connect directly to pins 1-9. Do not try to use a "null modem" serial cable where one pair of pins is swapped. The serial cable Anthem provides is correct.


You can leave the serial cable permanently attached to the D2v, coiled up neatly when not in use.


-----------------------------------------


And yes we have had reports that firmware installs using Windows 7 do work, although there are conflicting reports as to whether or not it works using Windows 7 in 64-bit mode. My guess would be the USB adapter driver would be the big issue for that.


To do an ARC setup using Windows 7 you must use ARC V2.4 or later.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/17656583
> 
> 
> Where do I look for the red board? Is this the video board providing the HDMI connections on the back? Does the red board have better physical HDMI ports as well as fixing the heat problem? I read about both of those issues earlier in the thread. My guess is that this unit is one of the origonals. The box has a sticker over what used to say "D1". The sticker says "D2" and then "1.0".
> 
> 
> Never mind, I found a post that had a picture!



The early reports of a heat "problem" from way back in 2006 turned out to be false alarms. The issues people were dealing with were not due to heat. They had real problems, but they were not heat problems.


The video board is the large board mounted at the top of the unit just underneath the top vent slots. It can be various colors: red, green, gray. All these boards provide identical video function and quality, they just use slightly different parts as parts availability changed over the years.


The power supply also changed at one point. The newer power supply does produce less heat, but again, the early reports of heat related problems were not correct and so there's no particular reason to prefer the new power supply except that it will help show the unit is a later production model (or got its power supply replaced during factory service).


The older units WILL dissipate more heat, but they are designed to do that and if you install them with reasonable ventilation there is no issue. Just don't place a heat sensitive device right above them.


-------------------------------------------------


NOTE: At one point I had my original green D2 video board replaced with the latest model video board -- which happened to be red at that time. This was done while we were tracking down a video problem that we thought might be hardware -- it actually turned out to be firmware. But because of this I was able to do some careful testing of video function and quality between the two boards, and, seriously, there is none.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Bob did you look at the image I attached, I don't see how this can connect to my D2v serial port, the nuts that connect the unit are on both the D2v and the adapter, they will hit and prevent connection.


I had this working fine with my xp computer and another adapter.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/17658297
> 
> 
> Bob did you look at the image I attached, I don't see how this can connect to my D2v serial port, the nuts that connect the unit are on both the D2v and the adapter, they will hit and prevent connection.
> 
> 
> I had this working fine with my xp computer and another adapter.



It is NOT suppose to connect directly to the D2v Port. It is

suppose to connect to the Serial Cable that Connects to the D2v


----------



## mvppsu

I talked to the dealer this morning to ask about the warranty since this is a floor model since early 2006. He was suprised when I pointed out the "floor model" info in the warranty section of the manual. He called me back later in the day to say that his rep still didn't get back to him. At that point I asked if I could take it home for an in-home demo to see if it actually met my expectations for sound quality and to verify it was fully working. He said that they wouldn't do that because it was too much work to unhook it and then hook it back up! Its on an open shelf with 1 DVD player and 1 TV connected to it.


So now I'm thinking I'd just prefer to buy one online. I'm a bit peturbed that they wouldn't let me take it home. I've purchased stuff there in the past, and the unit has already been used for 3 years. I don't feel a 2 day in-home demo is too much to ask on a item this expensive.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/17658297
> 
> 
> Bob did you look at the image I attached, I don't see how this can connect to my D2v serial port, the nuts that connect the unit are on both the D2v and the adapter, they will hit and prevent connection.
> 
> 
> I had this working fine with my xp computer and another adapter.



Reread my reply above. You are supposed to use a serial cable between the back of the D2v and the Keyspan. The Keyspan is not intended for direct connection to the back of the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/17658514
> 
> 
> I talked to the dealer this morning to ask about the warranty since this is a floor model since early 2006. He was suprised when I pointed out the "floor model" info in the warranty section of the manual. He called me back later in the day to say that his rep still didn't get back to him. At that point I asked if I could take it home for an in-home demo to see if it actually met my expectations for sound quality and to verify it was fully working. He said that they wouldn't do that because it was too much work to unhook it and then hook it back up! Its on an open shelf with 1 DVD player and 1 TV connected to it.
> 
> 
> So now I'm thinking I'd just prefer to buy one online. I'm a bit peturbed that they wouldn't let me take it home. I've purchased stuff there in the past, and the unit has already been used for 3 years. I don't feel a 2 day in-home demo is too much to ask on a item this expensive.



Dealers each do business their own way of course.


You are essentially buying a piece of used equipment, and if it isn't priced low enough for you to want to take the risk (based on what you see of it functioning in the store), the dealer is going to have to satisfy you that it works or that he'll back it up himself.


Check Audiogon for other used D2 deals, but it's probably not going to be all that much easier to try before you buy.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17658469
> 
> 
> It is NOT suppose to connect directly to the D2v Port. It is
> 
> suppose to connect to the Serial Cable that Connects to the D2v





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17658635
> 
> 
> Reread my reply above. You are supposed to use a serial cable between the back of the D2v and the Keyspan. The Keyspan is not intended for direct connection to the back of the D2v.
> 
> --Bob



Wow!!!







What a dummy I am.


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/17658514
> 
> 
> I talked to the dealer this morning to ask about the warranty since this is a floor model since early 2006. He was suprised when I pointed out the "floor model" info in the warranty section of the manual. He called me back later in the day to say that his rep still didn't get back to him. At that point I asked if I could take it home for an in-home demo to see if it actually met my expectations for sound quality and to verify it was fully working. He said that they wouldn't do that because it was too much work to unhook it and then hook it back up! Its on an open shelf with 1 DVD player and 1 TV connected to it.
> 
> 
> So now I'm thinking I'd just prefer to buy one online. I'm a bit peturbed that they wouldn't let me take it home. I've purchased stuff there in the past, and the unit has already been used for 3 years. I don't feel a 2 day in-home demo is too much to ask on a item this expensive.



Too bad you are not in Austin, TX. A&B TV is great, they would definitely have done this for you. Also, I was thinking about the price situation. The D2v is I believe $7500. The trade in of a D2 without ARC to a D2v is $4250 or so. Based on that I wouldn't pay much over $3250 for a used D2 without ARC. Otherwise you would be screwing yourself if you decided to upgrade in a short time.


mk


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/17658946
> 
> 
> Wow!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a dummy I am.


*Don't SAY THAT*







Just Say you had WAY TOO MUCH to DRINK at the Office Party


----------



## video_bit_bucket

My apologies, I should have researched before I posted. Got a little curious and the same verbiage is in the D1 (which I have) and D2v manual.


That really sticks it to the dealers. Either they have to sell the floor model frequently and take a hit that way on price or pretty much eat a unit at the end of a product life cycle. Not a good way to get dealers to stock demo equipment.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/17653062
> 
> 
> If you read the last page of the owners manual (available on the Anthem site) it says that if the unit is used as a floor model then the warranty period begins on the day of the dealer invoice. I agree its kind of dum and opposite of every other manufacturer. And yes, without a warranty the dealer has no advantage. I can get one on Audiogon for a little over $3000 with ARC, so my offer to the dealer would be less than that. I'm betting they will not go that low. They don't seem very knowledgable about the product at all. The salesman didn't even know that the D2 was a discontinued model when I asked about it. The other thing about the warranty that bothered me is that Anthem states it is only valid at the dealer that you purchased it from. I will likely be moving in a few months so that makes warranty claims very cumbersome. For supposedly having great customer service, their warranty policy kinda sucks for a unit this expensive.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17656459
> 
> 
> Hi erikno. Thanks for the input. Anyone else that can compare the internal DACS on the D2v with extarnal DAC solutions? I put a reclocker (OffRamp3 Ultraclock) between a computer and the D2v and the sound improvement has been incredible. I am trying to see if the added cost of an extarnal DAC is going to make a difference or not. Here in mexico, it is not very easy to set up comparisons so any input is appreciated.



I probably will get flamed but I stand by these three methods, listed in order of sound quality, with the best quality last, for playing Lossless FLAC/WAV files.


1. Server to a Logitech Transporter via ethernet. Transporter to D2

via Optical to D2 with ARC set for Stereo Analog/DSP


2. Server to Logitech Transporter via ethernet. Transporter to

Weiss Minerva DAC via AES/EBU. Weiss Minerva balanced analog output

to 2 channel on D2 set for Stereo/ Analog Direct.


3. Laptop with FLAC/WAV files using Foobar or Media Monkey via

FIREWIRE to Weiss Minerva DAC. Then to D2 via balanced analog cables

to 2 channel on D2 set for Stereo/ Analog Direct.


One caveat. I have Full Range Front speakers, Genesis 5.3 with powered woofers, so the loss of not using the sub in analog direct has little or no effect. I recommend you try the Minerva with Firewire. They have a white paper that I can forward to you, on research done by Weiss using firewire that eliminates transmission jitter problems.

I just learned of an improved method of ripping Redbook 44.1 CDs to FLAC files that sounds better than the original. Since this is OT I can PM the info to you if you want.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/17658514
> 
> 
> I talked to the dealer this morning to ask about the warranty since this is a floor model since early 2006. He was suprised when I pointed out the "floor model" info in the warranty section of the manual. He called me back later in the day to say that his rep still didn't get back to him. At that point I asked if I could take it home for an in-home demo to see if it actually met my expectations for sound quality and to verify it was fully working. He said that they wouldn't do that because it was too much work to unhook it and then hook it back up! Its on an open shelf with 1 DVD player and 1 TV connected to it.
> 
> 
> So now I'm thinking I'd just prefer to buy one online. I'm a bit peturbed that they wouldn't let me take it home. I've purchased stuff there in the past, and the unit has already been used for 3 years. I don't feel a 2 day in-home demo is too much to ask on a item this expensive.



Forget these losers. "Unhook it and hook it back up?" The horror!

If the damn thing works as it should they won't won't have to hook it back up.

Tell Zeb you'll be back in a few years to do a carbon date test on their precious D2, if they're still in business.
Call the guys selling their D2s on Audiogon and get a 1st hand feeling about them.

When and if you feel comfortable about one of them and a get good price, buy it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17660008
> 
> 
> I probably will get flamed but I stand by these three methods, listed in order of sound quality, with the best quality last, for playing Lossless FLAC/WAV files.
> 
> 
> 1. Server to a Logitech Transporter via ethernet. Transporter to D2
> 
> via Optical to D2 with ARC set for Stereo Analog/DSP
> 
> 
> 2. Server to Logitech Transporter via ethernet. Transporter to
> 
> Weiss Minerva DAC via AES/EBU. Weiss Minerva balanced analog output
> 
> to 2 channel on D2 set for Stereo/ Analog Direct.
> 
> 
> 3. Laptop with FLAC/WAV files using Foobar or Media Monkey via
> 
> FIREWIRE to Weiss Minerva DAC. Then to D2 via balanced analog cables
> 
> to 2 channel on D2 set for Stereo/ Analog Direct.
> 
> 
> One caveat. I have Full Range Front speakers, Genesis 5.3 with powered woofers, so the loss of not using the sub in analog direct has little or no effect. I recommend you try the Minerva with Firewire. They have a white paper that I can forward to you, on research done by Weiss using firewire that eliminates transmission jitter problems.
> 
> I just learned of an improved method of ripping Redbook 44.1 CDs to FLAC files that sounds better than the original. Since this is OT I can PM the info to you if you want.



Just a quick correction on (1) above. Obviously you can't use Analog-DSP for the Optical Digital input since it is not analog, although of course you CAN use Stereo audio surround Mode.


I realize you like what your Transporter or Laptop + Weiss DAC are doing, but did you try any experiments where you did the Analog input from the Weiss into Analog-DSP and then let ARC process that through a decent ARC setup? Even if you have top quality Full Range front speakers, there is often advantage to letting ARC measure and correct room issues.


Keep in mind that if you use Analog-DSP for stereo analog input like this you should also raise the sampling frequency for the re-digitizing in the D2. It defaults to 44.1KHz (for compatibility with digital recorders) and you can raise it to 96KHz if that's not an issue.

--Bob


----------



## ccomhs

Thank you


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17660008
> 
> 
> I probably will get flamed but I stand by these three methods, listed in order of sound quality, with the best quality last, for playing Lossless FLAC/WAV files.
> 
> 
> 1. Server to a Logitech Transporter via ethernet. Transporter to D2
> 
> via Optical to D2 with ARC set for Stereo Analog/DSP
> 
> 
> 2. Server to Logitech Transporter via ethernet. Transporter to
> 
> Weiss Minerva DAC via AES/EBU. Weiss Minerva balanced analog output
> 
> to 2 channel on D2 set for Stereo/ Analog Direct.
> 
> 
> 3. Laptop with FLAC/WAV files using Foobar or Media Monkey via
> 
> FIREWIRE to Weiss Minerva DAC. Then to D2 via balanced analog cables
> 
> to 2 channel on D2 set for Stereo/ Analog Direct.
> 
> 
> One caveat. I have Full Range Front speakers, Genesis 5.3 with powered woofers, so the loss of not using the sub in analog direct has little or no effect. I recommend you try the Minerva with Firewire. They have a white paper that I can forward to you, on research done by Weiss using firewire that eliminates transmission jitter problems.
> 
> I just learned of an improved method of ripping Redbook 44.1 CDs to FLAC files that sounds better than the original. Since this is OT I can PM the info to you if you want.



Thank you thestewman. It is interesting that you find the transporter to D2 via Optical to be on the list yet you do not mention the minerva to d2 via any type of digital conexion. Have you tried this? I would love to see how you are ripping your CD's to FLAC. I have spent a lot of time on the computer side and would also be glad to share what I have learned. Also, if not too much to ask, can you be a little more descriptive with the experienced sound with each set up, warmer, resolved ....


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17657573
> 
> 
> Plug the Keyspan directly into the USB port on your computer.
> 
> 
> Run a "straight-through" serial cable from the Keyspan to the back of the D2v. A "straight-through" serial cable is one where pins 1-9 connect directly to pins 1-9. Do not try to use a "null modem" serial cable where one pair of pins is swapped. The serial cable Anthem provides is correct.
> 
> *You can leave the serial cable permanently attached to the D2v, coiled up neatly when not in use.*
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> And yes we have had reports that firmware installs using Windows 7 do work, although there are conflicting reports as to whether or not it works using Windows 7 in 64-bit mode. My guess would be the USB adapter driver would be the big issue for that.
> 
> 
> To do an ARC setup using Windows 7 you must use ARC V2.4 or later.
> 
> --Bob



I use Windows 7 on a little netbook, works fine (x32).


And you can't leave the serial cable there if you use the serial port for your remote control! It's the only really annoying thing about the D2v, the lack of enough control inputs...


----------



## bluemark81

Has there been any headway made on the broken Anthem-Logic feature?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17661126
> 
> 
> Has there been any headway made on the broken Anthem-Logic feature?



No news yet.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17660956
> 
> 
> I use Windows 7 on a little netbook, works fine (x32).
> 
> 
> And you can't leave the serial cable there if you use the serial port for your remote control! It's the only really annoying thing about the D2v, the lack of enough control inputs...



I installed a 2 port RS-232 switch, with the output connected to the D2v, to the back of my rack and coiled up a 25' cable. When I need to upgrade, I change the switch to the service port and pull out the cable to my laptop and GO! When done I just switch back to the control port, coil up the cable and enjoy!


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17660490
> 
> 
> Thank you thestewman. It is interesting that you find the transporter to D2 via Optical to be on the list yet you do not mention the minerva to d2 via any type of digital conexion. Have you tried this?



Good question. I will try that this weekend and let you know what I hear.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17660490
> 
> 
> I would love to see how you are ripping your CD's to FLAC. I have spent a lot of time on the computer side and would also be glad to share what I have learned.



That might be too far OT for this Anthem thread so unless I hear otherwise from a moderator or the other thread users who would like to learn the method. You can PM me with your email address and I will give you that information as well as the white paper on the reason to use firewire.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17660490
> 
> 
> Also, if not too much to ask, can you be a little more descriptive with the experienced sound with each set up, warmer, resolved ....



1. Server to a Logitech Transporter via ethernet. Transporter to D2

via Optical to D2 with ARC, set for Stereo displaying PCM


This the normal excellent Anthem D2 sound I have always enjoyed. I found this is the best method to stream lossless FLAC/WAV files and my audiophile ripped CDs from a server without having to use a computer and an additional method of playing the codecs.


2. Server to Logitech Transporter via ethernet. Transporter to

Weiss Minerva DAC via AES/EBU. Weiss Minerva balanced analog output

to 2 channel on D2 set for Stereo/ Analog Direct.


Less distortion. Warmer. With cleaner and more highs. Instruments and vocals present a great sense of their localization on the sound stage.


There is one area I have not been able to figure out and I hope someone can jump in and explain.

Using this method the sub woofer is now off as well as ARC being off.

All the low frequency drivers in the RF and LF speaker units suddenly come to life. The entire room suddenly feels like there is a real live music presentation being presented. The music really does sound live. The energy of the music is dramatic. The kind that presents goose bumps when you experience it.

What I do not understand is why the speakers suddenly have all this low frequency and midrange output with ARC turned off that is adding to the musical experience. The speaker woofers are driven so hard on some symphony orchestral arrangements I have had to reduce the volume for fear of bottoming the woofer drivers.


3. Laptop with FLAC/WAV files using Foobar or Media Monkey via

FIREWIRE to Weiss Minerva DAC. Then to D2 via balanced analog cables

to 2 channel on D2 set for Stereo/ Analog Direct.


This one is more difficult to setup.

You now have to include a laptop or desktop playing the lossless FLAC/WAV files using Foobar or Media Monkey to play the codecs. To get the best results that virtually eliminates jitter, the computer has to be connected using firewire to the Minerva.

The results are a huge sound stage with tremendous depth. Performers and instruments appear to be standing right there in an sound image in 3D.

Studio or auditorium ambiance that I never heard before is now there.

The ultimate experience occurred when I fired it up the first time. My wife who does not enjoy my system or the music and complains almost every time I use it because it is too loud, the horns are too piercing, etc.

Suddenly remarked, "What did you do everything sounds clearer and more real".


ccomhs,hope that helps


Stew


----------



## DesertRatNM

Greetings, I just hooked up my new 50v processor. I performed ARC installation to processor and it seemed to enter successfully. On the setup menu, all the cross-over info for speakers is changed, and the speaker levels are all changed. So far so good. I made sure that roomEQ is set to on for both of my inputs. But when i play a dvd, and I hit "center" button on processor, it shows 0db. On the set up menu, speaker level, the ARC changed it to +2.5db. So why doesn't it show +2.5db when i hit center button?


Before I did ARC calibration, i had set center to +5.0db. For some of the satellite programs, when i hit center button, it either shows 0db or +5.0db depending on the programing. But it never shows +2.5db for center. Why? Did I do something wrong?


Thanks

Todd


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DesertRatNM* /forum/post/17663843
> 
> 
> Greetings, I just hooked up my new 50v processor. I performed ARC installation to processor and it seemed to enter successfully. On the setup menu, all the cross-over info for speakers is changed, and the speaker levels are all changed. So far so good. I made sure that roomEQ is set to on for both of my inputs. But when i play a dvd, and I hit "center" button on processor, it shows 0db. On the set up menu, speaker level, the ARC changed it to +2.5db. So why doesn't it show +2.5db when i hit center button?
> 
> 
> Before I did ARC calibration, i had set center to +5.0db. For some of the satellite programs, when i hit center button, it either shows 0db or +5.0db depending on the programing. But it never shows +2.5db for center. Why? Did I do something wrong?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Todd



The change in level via setup menu are there to balance out all your speakers to reference 75dB. It should read 0 if you hit the center or any other speaker level button. With regqrds to the center level when you watch satellite programing, it might just you have increased the level by 5dB at some point in time and the setting remained there. It should read 0 normally.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DesertRatNM* /forum/post/17663843
> 
> 
> Greetings, I just hooked up my new 50v processor. I performed ARC installation to processor and it seemed to enter successfully. On the setup menu, all the cross-over info for speakers is changed, and the speaker levels are all changed. So far so good. I made sure that roomEQ is set to on for both of my inputs. But when i play a dvd, and I hit "center" button on processor, it shows 0db. On the set up menu, speaker level, the ARC changed it to +2.5db. So why doesn't it show +2.5db when i hit center button?
> 
> 
> Before I did ARC calibration, i had set center to +5.0db. For some of the satellite programs, when i hit center button, it either shows 0db or +5.0db depending on the programing. But it never shows +2.5db for center. Why? Did I do something wrong?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Todd



The level adjustments you can make with the remote control or using the front panel buttons on the AVM 50v are "temporary" settings -- settings you can adjust, if you feel the need, without altering your calibrated settings.


The settings ARC Uploads into the Setup > Level Calibration menu are your calibrated settings -- corresponding to 0dB values for all of the temporary adjustment settings. The temporary adjustments settings neither display nor alter the calibrated settings in the Setup menu.


The effective level for any given speaker (pair) is determined by its calibration setting in Setup > Level Calibration plus or minus any temporary setting you may have set with the remote or front panel.


The Anthem remembers such "temporary" settings separately for different combos of source and input audio type. This can lead to the situation where you forget what temporary settings you may have made.


To clear ALL of the "temporary" settings simultaneously, go into Setup and do this:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. Continue using the front panel display if you lose video.

3) Reload Saved User Settings.


Since the "temporary" adjustments are not saved, this clears all of them.

--Bob


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17662369
> 
> 
> Good question. I will try that this weekend and let you know what I hear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That might be too far OT for this Anthem thread so unless I hear otherwise from a moderator or the other thread users who would like to learn the method. You can PM me with your email address and I will give you that information as well as the white paper on the reason to use firewire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Server to a Logitech Transporter via ethernet. Transporter to D2
> 
> via Optical to D2 with ARC, set for Stereo displaying PCM
> 
> 
> This the normal excellent Anthem D2 sound I have always enjoyed. I found this is the best method to stream lossless FLAC/WAV files and my audiophile ripped CDs from a server without having to use a computer and an additional method of playing the codecs.
> 
> 
> 2. Server to Logitech Transporter via ethernet. Transporter to
> 
> Weiss Minerva DAC via AES/EBU. Weiss Minerva balanced analog output
> 
> to 2 channel on D2 set for Stereo/ Analog Direct.
> 
> 
> Less distortion. Warmer. With cleaner and more highs. Instruments and vocals present a great sense of their localization on the sound stage.
> 
> 
> There is one area I have not been able to figure out and I hope someone can jump in and explain.
> 
> Using this method the sub woofer is now off as well as ARC being off.
> 
> All the low frequency drivers in the RF and LF speaker units suddenly come to life. The entire room suddenly feels like there is a real live music presentation being presented. The music really does sound live. The energy of the music is dramatic. The kind that presents goose bumps when you experience it.
> 
> What I do not understand is why the speakers suddenly have all this low frequency and midrange output with ARC turned off that is adding to the musical experience. The speaker woofers are driven so hard on some symphony orchestral arrangements I have had to reduce the volume for fear of bottoming the woofer drivers.
> 
> 
> 3. Laptop with FLAC/WAV files using Foobar or Media Monkey via
> 
> FIREWIRE to Weiss Minerva DAC. Then to D2 via balanced analog cables
> 
> to 2 channel on D2 set for Stereo/ Analog Direct.
> 
> 
> This one is more difficult to setup.
> 
> You now have to include a laptop or desktop playing the lossless FLAC/WAV files using Foobar or Media Monkey to play the codecs. To get the best results that virtually eliminates jitter, the computer has to be connected using firewire to the Minerva.
> 
> The results are a huge sound stage with tremendous depth. Performers and instruments appear to be standing right there in an sound image in 3D.
> 
> Studio or auditorium ambiance that I never heard before is now there.
> 
> The ultimate experience occurred when I fired it up the first time. My wife who does not enjoy my system or the music and complains almost every time I use it because it is too loud, the horns are too piercing, etc.
> 
> Suddenly remarked, "What did you do everything sounds clearer and more real".
> 
> 
> ccomhs,hope that helps
> 
> 
> Stew



Hi Stew,


I have PM you regarding OT discussion.


That is exactly my dilemma, I have reached that openess and sound warmth yet detail you describe by reducing the jitter and by using the D2´s on board DACs.


I have auditioned many HiFi rigs and the D2 is an upgrade/change from a low HiFi rig I previously used. I just do not know how much more sound I can squeeze out of my system, especially on the DAC department. I am not even sure I would prefer the much more expensive set ups that I have had the pleasure of hearing over my current setup. I am sure they sound better, but my hearing memory and ego perhaps will not allow me to recognize the fact that it can get better. How much better is another issue.


I look forward to your comments on the minerva digital out to the D2 and decide there if I will try outboard DACs for myself or not.


Regards,

MAX


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17662369
> 
> 
> Using this method the sub woofer is now off as well as ARC being off.
> 
> All the low frequency drivers in the RF and LF speaker units suddenly come to life. The entire room suddenly feels like there is a real live music presentation being presented. The music really does sound live. The energy of the music is dramatic. The kind that presents goose bumps when you experience it.
> 
> What I do not understand is why the speakers suddenly have all this low frequency and midrange output with ARC turned off that is adding to the musical experience. The speaker woofers are driven so hard on some symphony orchestral arrangements I have had to reduce the volume for fear of bottoming the woofer drivers.
> 
> 
> 
> ccomhs,hope that helps
> 
> 
> Stew



Good question.


I run ARC for video and then ARC for music.


On the musc side, I run all the way to 20khz and bump the fronts low x-over to match speaker specs.


I let ARC do what it wants with the sub. On playback, I push the sub out to +4/+6 dB dependig on music and personal mood. I have a feeling that the ARC is right on and my music tastes are way off. But I found myself in your situation and have found that the above gives me great results.


My listening space is so hampered with decorative preferences that I could not conceive using my stereo without ARC. But I do find my music lacking low end if I do not push the x-over down and the sub out up. Looking at some folks graphs, maybe my listening area is not all that bad.










MAX


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17664632
> 
> 
> Good question.
> 
> 
> I run ARC for video and then ARC for music.
> 
> 
> On the musc side, I run all the way to 20khz and bump the fronts low x-over to match speaker specs.
> 
> 
> I let ARC do what it wants with the sub. On playback, I push the sub out to +4/+6 dB dependig on music and personal mood. I have a feeling that the ARC is right on and my music tastes are way off. But I found myself in your situation and have found that the above gives me great results.
> 
> 
> My listening space is so hampered with decorative preferences that I could not conceive using my stereo without ARC. But I do find my music lacking low end if I do not push the x-over down and the sub out up. Looking at some folks graphs, maybe my listening area is not all that bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAX



ARC chart envy: The new social pressure!










"You need to lose 20 pounds AND your subwoofer is flabby!"


"Twelve new cures for Richard Syndrome!"


---------------------------------------------


Seriously folks, don't struggle with this stuff on your own. Post your charts. The nastier the better! Everybody benefits, even if it is just in getting a chuckle at somebody else's misfortune.

--Bob


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/17659938
> 
> 
> My apologies, I should have researched before I posted. Got a little curious and the same verbiage is in the D1 (which I have) and D2v manual.
> 
> 
> That really sticks it to the dealers. Either they have to sell the floor model frequently and take a hit that way on price or pretty much eat a unit at the end of a product life cycle. Not a good way to get dealers to stock demo equipment.



I was surprised when I found this and the dealer was too when I pointed it out. His response was "why would any dealers ever put one on the floor". And I agree it is a dum move on Anthem's part.


I almost felt bad for the guy, but really, that store has no business even stocking equipment like this. They have zero knowledge of the product, and no speakers of this caliber to test it with. Its not surprising that it has been sitting there for 3 years. I bought some v1 Paradigm signature speakers there a few years back that were also discontinued but still sitting there. I think maybe they had hopes of entering the high end market but were never able to sell anything. Not surprising!


Anyway, back to the origonal reason I was posting here, I drove 1.5 hours today to another dealer where I could demo a D2V. I brought along my PS Audio DLIII with Cullen L3 mods to compare. In short, the D2V DAC's couldn't match the performance of the external DAC. The external DAC gave a clearer sound with a bigger and much more focused soundstage. The imaging is really what set them apart. With the external DAC, it sounds much more like there is a single performer in the center of the stage instead of sound coming from two speakers. The difference was significant.


So I didn't leave with an Anthem, or intentions of buying one. But I did purchase a set of S6 speakers! There were two reasons I was interested in the Anthem, 1-To eliminate the amount of boxes and clutter I have (Denon Receiver, Parasound 2 channel peramp, SMS-1, DAC), 2-to gain better interaction between my speakers and sub when listening to 2 channel music.


What I found after auditioning S2's (what I have at home) and S6's is that the S2's really don't have enough strength in the upper base region (65-100hz) to keep up and blend with a sub. The S6's solved this problem and so I took them home! I only listened for about an hour so far, but I'm pretty happy. So I solved the more important issue of speaker sub integration, and I guess I'll just have to live with the rack full of boxes.


I think the Anthem may be an excellent sounding surround processor and video processor, but I am really more of a 2 channel music guy. I do listen to movies in surround sound, but I'm way more critical of the 2 channel sound. And I really had no interest in the video functions beyond simple HDMI switching. If they made a D2 without the video scaler at a much lower pricepoint like they did with the D1 I would give it much more consideration, but for now I'lll stick with a lower end receiver or pre/pro and a seperate two channel preamp.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17664702
> 
> 
> ARC chart envy: The new social pressure!



BoB


That was good for a chuckle.

Save that one


Stew


----------



## dvcdude

I sucessfully installed firmware 2.08 on my 50v using Windows 7 Professional x64 yesterday. This is my htpc and I installed a serial port card when I built the computer. Everything went smoothly with this install.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude* /forum/post/17666381
> 
> 
> I sucessfully installed firmware 2.08 on my 50v using Windows 7 Professional x64 yesterday. This is my htpc and I installed a serial port card when I built the computer. Everything went smoothly with this install.



Thanks for the report! That's more evidence that any trouble with 64-bit (for firmware installs) is likely an issue with the drivers for the serial connection.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/17658514
> 
> 
> I talked to the dealer this morning to ask about the warranty since this is a floor model since early 2006. He was suprised when I pointed out the "floor model" info in the warranty section of the manual. He called me back later in the day to say that his rep still didn't get back to him. At that point I asked if I could take it home for an in-home demo to see if it actually met my expectations for sound quality and to verify it was fully working. He said that they wouldn't do that because it was too much work to unhook it and then hook it back up! Its on an open shelf with 1 DVD player and 1 TV connected to it.
> 
> 
> So now I'm thinking I'd just prefer to buy one online. I'm a bit peturbed that they wouldn't let me take it home. I've purchased stuff there in the past, and the unit has already been used for 3 years. I don't feel a 2 day in-home demo is too much to ask on a item this expensive.



Ahhh the Anthem dealer network







. I really wish Anthem would wake up to the fact that the truly awful dealers (the vast majority) are just killing their great product and great AFTER sales service.


If they could fix that pre-sales part they could be making soooo much more money.


I personally never had so much trouble trying to give away such a large amount of money before.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

The dealer I have used in the past let me take home a various times a AVM 30, MCA-50, Studio 100's, and a D2. Unfortunately the economy got him but the dealer I am talking with now seems pretty agreeable though I have not asked for any demo gear yet.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/17667338
> 
> 
> Ahhh the Anthem dealer network
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I really wish Anthem would wake up to the fact that the truly awful dealers (the vast majority) are just killing their great product and great AFTER sales service.
> 
> 
> If they could fix that pre-sales part they could be making soooo much more money.
> 
> 
> I personally never had so much trouble trying to give away such a large amount of money before.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm not sure what the delay is in bug fix releases from Anthem, although I suspect it is that they are trying to get more insight into the V2.08 installer issue.


Anyway, I finally got around to installing the 20-Nov-09 incarnation of the V2.08 firmware (available as a "test" release on the password protected download page). No problems. No surprises.


Since the only change in it was improved HDMI for cable/satellite boxes that change output resolution on the fly ("native" mode output), and since I don't use that, I wasn't expecting to find any differences, and so far I have found no differences.


As with the "official" V2.08, this "test" version just identifies itself as V2.08 after installation. So you'll have to remember which version you have installed.

--Bob


----------



## husker du

Piero advised me that there may be a bug causing my deep color issue with my Epson 7500UB. He says they are working on it. Anthem is certeinly more helpful than Epson let me tell you!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17669137
> 
> 
> Piero advised me that there may be a bug causing my deep color issue with my Epson 7500UB. He says they are working on it. Anthem is certeinly more helpful than Epson let me tell you!



Thanks for the report! If you hear anything more on this, let us know.

--Bob


----------



## DesertRatNM

Dear Bob

Thanks so much for the clarification. This makes a lot of sense. One other question: for cd music and 5.1 SACD (which i play from dvd player), I'd like totally flat or 0db to all speakers. With ARC, the front speakers and sub are set to -2.5db, and the center to +2.5db. How do i accomplish this? Thanks

Todd


----------



## bluemark81

I'm currently watching a blue-ray disk that is 1080i/60 on the Oppo. The Oppo is set to source direct, 1080p/24 = auto. My output resolution on the D2v is set to 1080p/24. My display is set to automaically detect and display the incoming frame rate.


My frame lock in the D2v is set to off. I checked my input and output and it is 60 and 24 respectively. If I set frame lock to auto, I get the same output rate.


Is there a way for the D2v to automatically output the frame rate that is being fed to it?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DesertRatNM* /forum/post/17669760
> 
> 
> Dear Bob
> 
> Thanks so much for the clarification. This makes a lot of sense. One other question: for cd music and 5.1 SACD (which i play from dvd player), I'd like totally flat or 0db to all speakers. With ARC, the front speakers and sub are set to -2.5db, and the center to +2.5db. How do i accomplish this? Thanks
> 
> Todd



Open up your ARC results file in ARC's "Advanced" mode so you can see the charts. You will see that ARC has already built a "flat" solution for you except for the Room Gain hump near the crossover frequencies.


So long as your music is being played through ARC (i.e., Room EQ is ON for that Source definition, and you are not using Analog-Direct for analog audio input), you are getting the response curves shown in those charts.


Changing the levels ARC has Uploaded will undo ARC's solution, so you don't want to do that lightly.


What problem are you really trying to solve? If your goal is to build a Music solution that is different from your Movie solution in ARC there are several ways to approach that.


If you screen capture your ARC charts and also ARC's Targets window and post those here, that will be helpful as well in better understanding what you have now and what you are trying to achieve.


But understand that the levels ARC has Uploaded are what it decided it had to do, based on what the ARC mic actually heard, to balance out all the speakers equally against each other. That is the -2.5dB and +2.5dB volume trims ARC Uploaded are what was necessary to get those speakers in balance. It is not building in a 5dB difference on purpose or anything like that.


Also note that ARC uses a wider frequency range to check those volume trims than, say, an SPL meter will hear. So you can expect SPL meter results to be a little different. That is normal.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17669869
> 
> 
> I'm currently watching a blue-ray disk that is 1080i/60 on the Oppo. The Oppo is set to source direct, 1080p/24 = auto. My output resolution on the D2v is set to 1080p/24. My display is set to automaically detect and display the incoming frame rate.
> 
> 
> My frame lock in the D2v is set to off. I checked my input and output and it is 60 and 24 respectively. If I set frame lock to auto, I get the same output rate.
> 
> 
> Is there a way for the D2v to automatically output the frame rate that is being fed to it?



Not quite. The setup you have now, with Frame Lock = Auto should produce either 1080p/60 (not 1080i/60) or 1080p/24 output from the D2v according to whether it believes it has found a /24 stream present in the 1080i/60 input.


It makes that decision based on a couple seconds looking at the input video.


Try switching to a different input and back and see if it gets the same answer.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17670014
> 
> 
> Not quite. The setup you have now, with Frame Lock = Auto should produce either 1080p/60 (not 1080i/60) or 1080p/24 output from the D2v according to whether it believes it has found a /24 stream present in the 1080i/60 input.
> 
> 
> It makes that decision based on a couple seconds looking at the input video.
> 
> 
> Try switching to a different input and back and see if it gets the same answer.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I set frame lock to auto and I tried switching to another input, then back to the oppo and it made no difference. The D2v still shows its output as 24 when the input is 60.


----------



## DesertRatNM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17669979
> 
> 
> Open up your ARC results file in ARC's "Advanced" mode so you can see the charts. You will see that ARC has already built a "flat" solution for you except for the Room Gain hump near the crossover frequencies.
> 
> 
> So long as your music is being played through ARC (i.e., Room EQ is ON for that Source definition, and you are not using Analog-Direct for analog audio input), you are getting the response curves shown in those charts.
> 
> 
> Changing the levels ARC has Uploaded will undo ARC's solution, so you don't want to do that lightly.
> 
> 
> What problem are you really trying to solve? If your goal is to build a Music solution that is different from your Movie solution in ARC there are several ways to approach that.
> 
> 
> If you screen capture your ARC charts and also ARC's Targets window and post those here, that will be helpful as well in better understanding what you have now and what you are trying to achieve.
> 
> 
> But understand that the levels ARC has Uploaded are what it decided it had to do, based on what the ARC mic actually heard, to balance out all the speakers equally against each other. That is the -2.5dB and +2.5dB volume trims ARC Uploaded are what was necessary to get those speakers in balance. It is not building in a 5dB difference on purpose or anything like that.
> 
> 
> Also note that ARC uses a wider frequency range to check those volume trims than, say, an SPL meter will hear. So you can expect SPL meter results to be a little different. That is normal.
> 
> --Bob



Dear Bob

That makes sense. I guess i didn't understand what ARC does, and now i do. I'm one of those nutty audiophiles so I like the music from CD to be completely unaltered, and ARC obviously only makes frequency response correspond to proper curve for each speaker so they are "flat." If i want to bypass the ARC for some reason with the music, then I can just run analogue cables (RCA), correct?

todd


----------



## DesertRatNM

For the mode presets, I have left all of these to default for both satellite and DVD. Any recommendations - for example, for DTS, default is Neo:6. Does that work the best? Thanks

Todd


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17670098
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I set frame lock to auto and I tried switching to another input, then back to the oppo and it made no difference. The D2v still shows its output as 24 when the input is 60.



It appears it found a /24 cadence in the /60 input.


What disc is this?


How did the result look? if it was really video-based, the stuttering after conversion to /24 should be obvious.


You should email Anthem tech support with the title and bar code number for this disc so they can check it out.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DesertRatNM* /forum/post/17670105
> 
> 
> Dear Bob
> 
> That makes sense. I guess i didn't understand what ARC does, and now i do. I'm one of those nutty audiophiles so I like the music from CD to be completely unaltered, and ARC obviously only makes frequency response correspond to proper curve for each speaker so they are "flat." If i want to bypass the ARC for some reason with the music, then I can just run analogue cables (RCA), correct?
> 
> todd



If you want to bypass ARC, run RCA or XLR input cables and set Analog-Direct in that Source definition.


Speaker levels, bass management, and speaker distance adjustments will all have to be made by the source device as the Anthem will only be providing main volume control.


However, you really should look into setting up a Music configuration in ARC if that's what you are concerned about. I think you will be amazed how much it helps your music playback.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17670913
> 
> 
> If you want to bypass ARC, run RCA or XLR input cables and set Analog-Direct in that Source definition.
> 
> 
> Speaker levels, bass management, and speaker distance adjustments will all have to be made by the source device as the Anthem will only be providing main volume control.
> 
> 
> However, you really should look into setting up a Music configuration in ARC if that's what you are concerned about. I think you will be amazed how much it helps your music playback.
> 
> --Bob



Bob


Rather than using Analog Direct why not turn Auto EQ off for that source and still use the bass mgt, speaker distances etc.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17673752
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Rather than using Analog Direct why not turn Auto EQ off for that source and still use the bass mgt, speaker distances etc.



You will still have the crossovers and volume trims that ARC installed but without the matching Room Correction processing that goes with them.


How that sounds depends on how much Room Correction ARC planned on doing in conjunction with those.


[In addition, other settings that you might have in place from the "simpler" EQ stuff in the Anthem (e.g., Room Resonance Filter, Center EQ, THX Ultra 2 Sub, Boundary Gain Compensation, LFE Bypass) will also re-engage when you turn Room EQ OFF, which can be confusing. ARC disables all those when it is in use.]


If you are going to allow the processor to do its digital audio processing at all, by far the best solution is to let ARC do its thing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just got an update from Nick on D2v and AVM 50v firmware.


The Video Processor Reset Failed issue apparently has to do with serial port problems in certain Windows configurations. However, once it has happened, the video board needs to be reset in the factory, so switching to a good Windows setup after that point is too late.


And if someone who had the problem (and gets their unit back after the factory fix) again tries to use the current firmware installer with the same Windows setup, the failure will likely recur.


They believe they have found a fix for the installer to deal with these Windows problems, and they are testing that now. He expects that to be out as a "test" release in about a week.


There are expected to be some HDMI and Deep Color fixes in that "test" release as well. I don't know if the pending audio issues will be addressed in that one, but some of the pending audio fixes are likely to be simple, so I'm cautiously optimistic.


-----------------------------------


This probably means the Dolby Volume firmware will come out around the beginning of the year as well as other, pending bug fixes.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17675711
> 
> 
> 
> This probably means the Dolby Volume firmware will come out around the beginning of the year as well as other, pending bug fixes.
> 
> --Bob



I sure hope so, been waiting so long for this...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I think it is basically done right now, but they don't want to muddy the waters regarding these important bug fixes.

--Bob


----------



## Dewboy3

What is the shipping time with Anthem? I ordered a new D2v 11/19/09.

I'm excited about the new unit. I've had a D-1 from the beginning love it.

I may have some questions about ARC when it gets here.


Dew


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Typically 6 to 8 weeks, but it depends on the luck of precisely where they were in their production schedule when your dealer placed your order.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks who are having the AL-Cinema problem (with 7.1 speaker systems), please see if the problem exists when listening to CDs -- perhaps with singers so that you have voices to distinguish this.


Stereo digital audio from a CD player will be LPCM 2.0, whereas from a cable or satellite box it will likely by DD 2.0. That may help isolate the problem.


ETA: Nick at Anthem asked me to post this request.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17670893
> 
> 
> It appears it found a /24 cadence in the /60 input.
> 
> 
> What disc is this?
> 
> 
> How did the result look? if it was really video-based, the stuttering after conversion to /24 should be obvious.
> 
> 
> You should email Anthem tech support with the title and bar code number for this disc so they can check it out.
> 
> --Bob



It was a movie called Five Minutes of Heaven with Liam Neeson. When Frame Lock was off, it would stutter something crazy. With it on, it didn't seem to. Movie has already been returned, so I don't have the bar code. Not sure exactly what I should be asking Nick in this case?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17676061
> 
> 
> For folks who are having the AL-Cinema problem (with 7.1 speaker systems), please see if the problem exists when listening to CDs -- perhaps with singers so that you have voices to distinguish this.
> 
> 
> Stereo digital audio from a CD player will be LPCM 2.0, whereas from a cable or satellite box it will likely by DD 2.0. That may help isolate the problem.
> 
> 
> ETA: Nick at Anthem asked me to post this request.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I thought I had an AL issue, but I'm no longer sure. When I first thought I had an issue, I didn't have any audio out of my surrounds until cycling out of AL mode and then back to it. That does not seem to be an issue now as I've tried switching back and forth several times this evening and I get AL audio each time. What should I be listening for?


----------



## DesertRatNM

Please tell me how to set up music configuration in ARC. I play music through my Oppo BDP-83, both CD and SACD 5.1.

Thanks

todd


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17676155
> 
> 
> It was a movie called Five Minutes of Heaven with Liam Neeson. When Frame Lock was off, it would stutter something crazy. With it on, it didn't seem to. Movie has already been returned, so I don't have the bar code. Not sure exactly what I should be asking Nick in this case?



What makes you think it was on disc as 1080i/60 again? If it is on disc as 1080p/24 and you specify 1080i/60 output from the Oppo then that's what you'll get -- i.e., 1080i/60. With Frame Lock OFF and a 1080p/24 output setting in the Anthem, the Anthem will output 1080p/24 but the conversion from the 1080i/60 input to that won't be engaged. For that you also need Frame Lock AUTO.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DesertRatNM* /forum/post/17676935
> 
> 
> Please tell me how to set up music configuration in ARC. I play music through my Oppo BDP-83, both CD and SACD 5.1.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> todd



If you want to use the same speakers and seating for Movies and Music you don't need to do anything. Just use the Movie configuration ARC produces.


Keep in mind that you can still limit output to, say, just LF/RF/Sub by selecting Stereo audio mode even if your Movie speaker configuration includes all your speakers. So the question is whether you want ARC to take into account the needs of all the same speakers when it builds the solution for Movie and Music -- not whether you will actually use all those speakers for any given listening.


If instead you want to have ARC build a different Music solution, perhaps with different speakers included (e.g., no Center or no Surrounds) then specify that when you do your ARC Measurements. The Movie and Music solutions can then be selected for use with any Source by specifying Movie or Music "Bass Management" in the Setup > Source Setup definition for each Source.


For 5.1 SACD listening, of course, you will want to have at least a 5.1 speaker setup. You could use your Movie configuration for that if you want to build a Music configuration as well with fewer speakers. The names are just for convenience. "Movie" doesn't do anything different from "Music" except for what you specify in terms of which speakers to use and so on.

--Bob


----------



## sbains

I just purchased a new Anthem D2V, formerly owned an Anthem AVM-30.

Have the unit setup but having a problem running ARC setup.


The factory CD that shipped with the D2V could not be used as it could not find some excel file in a directory, it was looking in wrong directory. So I copied the contents to the hard disk, copied the excel file into right location and installed it fine.


When I start the s/w it immediately powers down the D2V

Then powers back up in a few seconds reads the D2V serial number.

Then switches to FM input at 87.5 and then sits there forever, doesn't do anything.

So I power down the D2V, power it back on and then it is ready to start.

When I do, loud sounds are made through the speakers enough to scare the neighbors even at 40dB setting but the microphone connected via USB never hears it.


I do have a desktop PC with a serial port (none of my laptops have that), running Win7 with serial port setup with 2 stop bits at 57600 baud.

The error I get is ...


Anthem Room Correction


Measurement procedure failed.

Error measurement was not able to acquire a proper response. (code 0x03).

User abort.


Any help would be appreciated, I have tried configuring the executable to use the Anthem executable in WinXP and WinVista mode but same error above.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17676357
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I thought I had an AL issue, but I'm no longer sure. When I first thought I had an issue, I didn't have any audio out of my surrounds until cycling out of AL mode and then back to it. That does not seem to be an issue now as I've tried switching back and forth several times this evening and I get AL audio each time. What should I be listening for?



That's an entirely separate problem: Sometimes for 2.0 input the Mode Preset you have specified doesn't get properly applied. Typically you will get the equivalent of Stereo mode (LF/RF/Sub only) when this fails. The workaround is to select a different audio mode and back using the Mode button and the arrow keys. That problem is not specific to AL-Cinema. Anthem is already on the case on that one.


The AL-Cinema specific problem we are trying to sort out here is reports from people that way too much dialog is being steered to the surround speakers if they use AL-Cinema in a 6.1 or 7.1 speaker system (but not 5.1). The reports are that it worked correctly in V2.07 and is broken in V2.08. The reports are also that if they set a 5.1 speaker configuration it works correctly even in V2.08.


For folks who have spotted that, Nick wants to know if the problem happens with LPCM 2.0 input, or with DD 2.0 input, or with both. I suppose we should try analog 2.0 input (ANLG-DSP of course) as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sbains* /forum/post/17677082
> 
> 
> I just purchased a new Anthem D2V, formerly owned an Anthem AVM-30.
> 
> Have the unit setup but having a problem running ARC setup.
> 
> 
> The factory CD that shipped with the D2V could not be used as it could not find some excel file in a directory, it was looking in wrong directory. So I copied the contents to the hard disk, copied the excel file into right location and installed it fine.
> 
> 
> When I start the s/w it immediately powers down the D2V
> 
> Then powers back up in a few seconds reads the D2V serial number.
> 
> Then switches to FM input at 87.5 and then sits there forever, doesn't do anything.
> 
> So I power down the D2V, power it back on and then it is ready to start.
> 
> When I do, loud sounds are made through the speakers enough to scare the neighbors even at 40dB setting but the microphone connected via USB never hears it.
> 
> 
> I do have a desktop PC with a serial port (none of my laptops have that), running Win7 with serial port setup with 2 stop bits at 57600 baud.
> 
> The error I get is ...
> 
> 
> Anthem Room Correction
> 
> 
> Measurement procedure failed.
> 
> Error measurement was not able to acquire a proper response. (code 0x03).
> 
> User abort.
> 
> 
> Any help would be appreciated, I have tried configuring the executable to use the Anthem executable in WinXP and WinVista mode but same error above.



Are you using a Windows 7 computer? If so you need to be using ARC V2.4. You can download that from the Anthem site and install it on top of what you have now.


If you are not using Windows 7, then call Anthem tech support. You may have a faulty ARC mic.


The volume of the sweep tones can be adjusted by doing a little preliminary work in the Setup > Level Calibration menu.


Go in there and zero out all the lines. Then set Manual test mode in the first line and scroll down to the Test Level line. A calibration tone will start in the Left Front speaker.


Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (set to "slow" response and "C" weighting), set Test Level to yield 75dB SPL at your ARC mic position #1.


Then, leaving that line as you set it, scroll down to a subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB (as set above). Instead, adjust the volume knob in your subwoofer to yield 75dB SPL measured the same way.


Then exit Setup and go do your ARC Measurements. ARC will use the Test Level line to set the volume of the sweep tones, and your adjustment to the sub insures it starts off already pretty much in balance with the main speakers.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17677009
> 
> 
> What makes you think it was on disc as 1080i/60 again? If it is on disc as 1080p/24 and you specify 1080i/60 output from the Oppo then that's what you'll get -- i.e., 1080i/60. With Frame Lock OFF and a 1080p/24 output setting in the Anthem, the Anthem will output 1080p/24 but the conversion from the 1080i/60 input to that won't be engaged. For that you also need Frame Lock AUTO.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


The Oppo's 1080p24 output is set to auto, and is set to source direct, so I'm assuming if it is a 1080i/60 disk, then it will output as such. The Anthem's input signal is telling me so as well. With Frame Lock set to Auto and my output set to 1080p/24, the Anthem is still outputting 24p. With Frame lock engaged, shouldn't this detect the 60p incoming and output it at 60p unless it can find 24p within the disk? Am I missing something here?


----------



## sbains

Are you using a Windows 7 computer? If so you need to be using ARC V2.4. You can download that from the Anthem site and install it on top of what you have now. ----> I am running Win7 and am using ARC Ver 2.4 from About Menu


If you are not using Windows 7, then call Anthem tech support. You may have a faulty ARC mic. ---->MIC seems to work if I use Windows Sound Recorder to test


The volume of the sweep tones can be adjusted by doing a little preliminary work in the Setup > Level Calibration menu.


Go in there and zero out all the lines. Then set Manual test mode in the first line and scroll down to the Test Level line. A calibration tone will start in the Left Front speaker.


Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (set to "slow" response and "C" weighting), set Test Level to yield 75dB SPL at your ARC mic position #1. ---> Do I have to purchase more hardware, why didn't Anthem supply all that was needed with the ARC?


Then, leaving that line as you set it, scroll down to a subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB (as set above). Instead, adjust the volume knob in your subwoofer to yield 75dB SPL measured the same way.


Then exit Setup and go do your ARC Measurements. ARC will use the Test Level line to set the volume of the sweep tones, and your adjustment to the sub insures it starts off already pretty much in balance with the main speakers.

--Bob

This doesn't answer why the MIC cannot hear those test tones the ARC S/W puts out, it is only 15ft away from the speakers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It sounds like you have a faulty ARC mic. My recommendation is that you give Anthem tech support a call and let them help you with this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17677288
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> The Oppo's 1080p24 output is set to auto, and is set to source direct, so I'm assuming if it is a 1080i/60 disk, then it will output as such. The Anthem's input signal is telling me so as well. With Frame Lock set to Auto and my output set to 1080p/24, the Anthem is still outputting 24p. With Frame lock engaged, shouldn't this detect the 60p incoming and output it at 60p unless it can find 24p within the disk? Am I missing something here?



Apparently the Anthem found a /24 stream in that 1080i/60 input. It is very strange to find that on a Blu-Ray disc, but certainly not impossible.


If the /24 output with Frame Lock AUTO is looking good, then odds are it is correct!

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17650055
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Cool beans..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,



I received your switch; it is amazingly compact and easy to hide. And it works 100% to eliminate the 8300HD reboot problem.


----------



## jayray

I tried this morning, the 2 channel with Anthem Logic cinema setting with 7.1 channels. I have official 2.08 firmware on my D2v. What I heard was sound through all channels and main voice coming through the centre and faintly through the surrounds. Accompanying voices were more noticable through surrounds. Don't know if this is correct.

John


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17679139
> 
> 
> I received your switch; it is amazingly compact and easy to hide. And it works 100% to eliminate the 8300HD reboot problem.



Greetings,


Glad to hear it is working for you as well Tolstoi...











Regards,


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17679154
> 
> 
> I tried this morning, the 2 channel with Anthem Logic cinema setting with 7.1 channels. I have official 2.08 firmware on my D2v. What I heard was sound through all channels and main voice coming through the centre and faintly through the surrounds. Accompanying voices were more noticable through surrounds. Don't know if this is correct.
> 
> John



Greetings,


Mine is the same John and I believe this is in fact correct.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Jayray (and Ralph),


From your description, that sounds "correct". Was your input 2.0 LPCM, 2.0 analog, or DD2.0 when you tried this? It would not surprise me to discover the problem is only with DD2.0 input for example. (E.g., if it is incorrectly decoding out of phase, the algorithm will see main dialog as distinct L/R and put more of it in the surrounds. But why that would only happen if folks specify 7.1 speakers is beyond me.)


We need to get some audio input type responses from the folks who originally reported the "incorrect" AL-Cinema as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Jayray & Ralph,

One more item on this:


All the people reporting this "AL-Cinema has excess dialog in the Surrounds" problem agree that it only happens with 6.1 or 7.1 speaker systems.


If you are not sure what you are hearing with AL-Cinema and 7.1 speakers is "correct" in any test, just switch to 5.1 speakers temporarily. If the content sent to the side surrounds seems better with 5.1 speakers than with 7.1 speakers then odds are the 7.1 version is "incorrect".

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

My input was 2 ch. PCM from oppo. It sounded the same

with 5.1 and 7.1 output.

John


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17675711
> 
> 
> I just got an update from Nick on D2v and AVM 50v firmware.
> 
> 
> The Video Processor Reset Failed issue apparently has to do with serial port problems in certain Windows configurations. However, once it has happened, the video board needs to be reset in the factory, so switching to a good Windows setup after that point is too late.
> 
> 
> And if someone who had the problem (and gets their unit back after the factory fix) again tries to use the current firmware installer with the same Windows setup, the failure will likely recur.
> 
> 
> They believe they have found a fix for the installer to deal with these Windows problems, and they are testing that now. He expects that to be out as a "test" release in about a week.
> 
> 
> There are expected to be some HDMI and Deep Color fixes in that "test" release as well. I don't know if the pending audio issues will be addressed in that one, but some of the pending audio fixes are likely to be simple, so I'm cautiously optimistic.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> This probably means the Dolby Volume firmware will come out around the beginning of the year as well as other, pending bug fixes.
> 
> --Bob



It seems to me a lot of this would be resolved and avoided with a cat5 scenario for updating these units. I understand the school of thought for the serial was for installer purposes, however they could have easily added a nic to these units for firmware updates very easily.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17681966
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> My input was 2 ch. PCM from oppo. It sounded the same
> 
> with 5.1 and 7.1 output.
> 
> John



Thanks. Can you try DD2.0 input with AL-Cinema to see if that makes a difference? Stereo programs from a cable/satellite box would do it, or bitstream of a DD2.0 SD-DVD track for example from the Oppo.


If you hear a distinct difference between how AL-Cinema is working with PCM input vs. DD that would be very revealing.


I'm assuming this is going to do the same thing for HDMI and for Optical input, but I suppose we should check that as well.


Again, we need the folks who reported this problem already to chime in here.

--Bob


----------



## agrsiv95

Can someone send me their saved settings file for a D2 with 1.33 please?

I have tried the flash eraser to many times to count and read some pages back by reloading the saved settings it took a full download. Damn OKi boot loader error










Jeremy


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/17683578
> 
> 
> Can someone send me their saved settings file for a D2 with 1.33 please?
> 
> I have tried the flash eraser to many times to count and read some pages back by reloading the saved settings it took a full download. Damn OKi boot loader error
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeremy



FACTORY Restore should do the same.


----------



## agrsiv95

I was trying to reload 1.33 for HDMI handshake issues when it failed on Sat. and have been fighting ever since. I have to look but one user reloaded his saved settings file from his computer and loaded 1.33 again for it to take a full install. I have tried everything on the front panel and numorus flash eraser runs with no luck. I do not have a back up file to try and was hoping someone could send me a copy of theirs.


Jeremy


ETA: Post 24990 is what I'm trying to do.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17680759
> 
> 
> Jayray (and Ralph),
> 
> 
> From your description, that sounds "correct". Was your input 2.0 LPCM, 2.0 analog, or DD2.0 when you tried this? It would not surprise me to discover the problem is only with DD2.0 input for example. (E.g., if it is incorrectly decoding out of phase, the algorithm will see main dialog as distinct L/R and put more of it in the surrounds. But why that would only happen if folks specify 7.1 speakers is beyond me.)
> 
> 
> We need to get some audio input type responses from the folks who originally reported the "incorrect" AL-Cinema as well.
> 
> --Bob



Sorry, I am changing from my 106" 16X9 screen to a 133" 2.40 AR and have been reading up on it for the last few days, lots to take in there. Anywho, I just tried it with DD 2.0 and PCM and the problem still persists. 2 ch audio from Direct TV, from DVDs from a different player and music from the PS3 all have the same result. Want me to go back to 2.07 yet, maybe it's just my D2v?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17683819
> 
> 
> Sorry, I am changing from my 106" 16X9 screen to a 133" 2.40 AR and have been reading up on it for the last few days, lots to take in there. Anywho, I just tried it with DD 2.0 and PCM and the problem still persists. 2 ch audio from Direct TV, from DVDs from a different player and music from the PS3 all have the same result. Want me to go back to 2.07 yet, maybe it's just my D2v?



If you could, please email Anthem again, and tell Nick you are willing to do experiments. Report what you just found. Apparently they are having trouble isolating just what is going on here.


I believe we had several posters report this, so I doubt it is your Anthem. But it could be something specific about your configuration -- more than just 7.1 speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95* /forum/post/17683683
> 
> 
> I was trying to reload 1.33 for HDMI handshake issues when it failed on Sat. and have been fighting ever since. I have to look but one user reloaded his saved settings file from his computer and loaded 1.33 again for it to take a full install. I have tried everything on the front panel and numorus flash eraser runs with no luck. I do not have a back up file to try and was hoping someone could send me a copy of theirs.
> 
> 
> Jeremy
> 
> 
> ETA: Post 24990 is what I'm trying to do.



I think you'll need to work this problem with Anthem tech support. They may ask you to try an install of an older firmware version, and then back to V1.33. Or they may ask you to try the hardware reset procedure. But really, this has gotten past the point where you should be trying stuff on your own. Give them a chance to help.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17683603
> 
> 
> FACTORY Restore should do the same.



After a Flash Erase he needs to do a firmware install to get to the point where he could to a Reload Factory Defaults.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Tried the DD 2 ch. And did not notice any diff from the PCM

AL cinema.

John


----------



## lk100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17676061
> 
> 
> For folks who are having the AL-Cinema problem (with 7.1 speaker systems), please see if the problem exists when listening to CDs -- perhaps with singers so that you have voices to distinguish this.
> 
> 
> Stereo digital audio from a CD player will be LPCM 2.0, whereas from a cable or satellite box it will likely by DD 2.0. That may help isolate the problem.
> 
> 
> ETA: Nick at Anthem asked me to post this request.
> 
> --Bob



I tried a couple of Comcast movies in DD 2.0. The sound was mainly from the front with lessor amounts from the surrounds and the rears. It sounded OK by my ears. I also played a CD from a CD player. It also sounded fine to me with the sound coming mainly from the fronts. In neither case did I feel the surrounds infringing on the fronts.


----------



## perioms




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17675711
> 
> 
> I just got an update from Nick on D2v and AVM 50v firmware.
> 
> 
> The Video Processor Reset Failed issue apparently has to do with serial port problems in certain Windows configurations. However, once it has happened, the video board needs to be reset in the factory, so switching to a good Windows setup after that point is too late.
> 
> 
> And if someone who had the problem (and gets their unit back after the factory fix) again tries to use the current firmware installer with the same Windows setup, the failure will likely recur.
> 
> 
> They believe they have found a fix for the installer to deal with these Windows problems, and they are testing that now. He expects that to be out as a "test" release in about a week.
> 
> 
> There are expected to be some HDMI and Deep Color fixes in that "test" release as well. I don't know if the pending audio issues will be addressed in that one, but some of the pending audio fixes are likely to be simple, so I'm cautiously optimistic.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> This probably means the Dolby Volume firmware will come out around the beginning of the year as well as other, pending bug fixes.
> 
> --Bob



I don`t believe, that the reset failure has only to do with certain serial port configurations. My dealer has tried to upgrade two d2v`s with the same Windows system without any changes of the system configuration. The result: one failure, one success.

Otherwise I suppose, that until this upgrade behaviour is not solved, Anthem will not announce any official firmware release.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/17685607
> 
> 
> I don`t believe, that the reset failure has only to do with certain serial port configurations. My dealer has tried to upgrade two d2v`s with the same Windows system without any changes of the system configuration. The result: one failure, one success.



Apparently even if you have a Windows setup that is susceptible to this, it doesn't fail EVERY time. Your dealer was unlucky once, and lucky once. (But once the firmware install has failed on a given Anthem, the video board needs factory reprogramming.) That's why they need to test the installer fix enough to feel confident it really has been fixed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100* /forum/post/17684919
> 
> 
> I tried a couple of Comcast movies in DD 2.0. The sound was mainly from the front with lessor amounts from the surrounds and the rears. It sounded OK by my ears. I also played a CD from a CD player. It also sounded fine to me with the sound coming mainly from the fronts. In neither case did I feel the surrounds infringing on the fronts.



Thanks for the report.


OK who else besides STUDLYGOORITE still believes they have this problem? I know we had a few more people posting on this a while back.

--Bob


----------



## Janski

Hi Bob,


I certainly had the issue with overpowering dialog from the rear surrounds in AL - Cinema with my D2v. I've just tried DD2.0 and PCM with AL - Cinema via Dig Optical Input and now the problem is gone! (It had occurred with PCM input via Dig Optical Input)


Tried the same Newscast (PCM) which I confirmed as exemplifying the issue on channel 218, Bell ExpressVu and dialog is mostly from the front again. The descripton lk100 and jayray give is consistent with not having the issue.


What has changed since the time of last confirming the issue and now is:

- User settings cleared again - when I took my D2v to Anthem to have the Video daughter board (HDMI outs) replaced.

- Unit unplugged from AC Mains - both during the above visit and also last night as I put a new cabinet in - I had to disconnect/reconnect my whole setup


I don't know if it is also possible Anthem did apply any firmware while my unit was in repair. (I was already at 2.08 when I brought it in.)


I suggest Studly try this again: (Based upon non-Technical observation)


- save user settings, restore factory default user settings, power unit off

- power unit on, re-load saved user settings

- check if the dialog is still overpowering from the rears

- if yes, then unplug the AC Mains for about an hour and try again


Confirmed my speaker levels manually, all sound about even. I am happy to have AL - Cinema usable again.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks for the report. Intermittent problems are a pain. If they replaced hardware in your unit, then odds are they did reload the V2.08 firmware as that's necessary to get the hardware initialized. If they just reseated the board then likely not.


Some bugs happen because some portion of memory is not properly initialized. Powering off the unit (back panel power switch) or reloading the firmware can sometimes help in such cases. There's really no need to power it off for a long time. A few seconds is likely plenty.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17688768
> 
> 
> Thanks for the report. Intermittent problems are a pain. If they replaced hardware in your unit, then odds are they did reload the V2.08 firmware as that's necessary to get the hardware initialized. If they just reseated the board then likely not.
> 
> 
> Some bugs happen because some portion of memory is not properly initialized. Powering off the unit (back panel power switch) or reloading the firmware can sometimes help in such cases. There's really no need to power it off for a long time. A few seconds is likely plenty.
> 
> --Bob



When I get home from work I will try a couple more things, unplug, and re-load defaults and back again, before I email Nick. My lap top is in the shop right now so the firmware change is out until I get her back. John


----------



## studlygoorite

Tried unplugging and re-loaded defaults again to no avail. Will monkey with reloading 2.07 and back to 2.08 when lap top is back.


On a better note, I was pleased to read in the manual, if I read it correctly, that my switch from 106" 16:9 screen to a 133" 2.40 AR screen will not need my old iscan VP50pro scaler, as the D2v has all the capabilities to scale the picture as needed with the Panamorph UH380 Lens. Nice.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17689990
> 
> 
> Tried unplugging and re-loaded defaults again to no avail. Will monkey with reloading 2.07 and back to 2.08 when lap top is back.
> 
> 
> On a better note, I was pleased to read in the manual, if I read it correctly, that my switch from 106" 16:9 screen to a 133" 2.40 AR screen will not need my old iscan VP50pro scaler, as the D2v has all the capabilities to scale the picture as needed with the Panamorph UH380 Lens. Nice.



Yes. There's some relevant discussion in the "Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling" post links in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

The AL Cinema problem is obviously related to being north of the 49th paralell









John


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/17659938
> 
> 
> My apologies, I should have researched before I posted. Got a little curious and the same verbiage is in the D1 (which I have) and D2v manual.
> 
> 
> That really sticks it to the dealers. Either they have to sell the floor model frequently and take a hit that way on price or pretty much eat a unit at the end of a product life cycle. Not a good way to get dealers to stock demo equipment.



In case anyone was curious, my dealer confirmed with Anthem that the warranty on his floor model D2 was expired. Anthem said that they would offer a 90day warranty as a curtesy. That really does kinda suck for the dealer! I didn't ask how much they now wanted to charge for the almost warranty less three year old floor model D2 since I used my money for speakers instead, but I would be guessing they removed the $7499 price tag! I'll have to stop by in a few weeks or months and see. I'm betting it will sit there for a few more months or years.


----------



## ragdog

Can someone tell me how long, after you returned your D2v to Anthem, it took to get it back. I am referring to those where the video board died in the update of firmware. Any replies here?


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob,

When I send Bitstream from BD to d2v then from d2v to tv connecting HDMI, I don't get any sound in tv. When I change the output to PCM from BD to d2v then from d2v to tv by HDMI, I get sound in tv. Is this normal?

Thanks,


----------



## usxplong

I know it is off topic but want to get suggestions. I placed an order for Anthem Statement P5 for $4900 including taxes (out the door). Is this a good deal or I can find a cheaper deal?

Sorry for intereption.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17695112
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> When I send Bitstream from BD to d2v then from d2v to tv connecting HDMI, I don't get any sound in tv. When I change the output to PCM from BD to d2v then from d2v to tv by HDMI, I get sound in tv. Is this normal?
> 
> Thanks,



Regardless of the audio input type, the HDMI output includes a stereo down-mix of whatever audio is currently being processed on the Main path -- 2.0 LPCM 48KHz.


So no, there should not be a difference between Bitstream and LPCM input as to whether the stereo LPCM down-mix will be present on the HDMI output.


Please email Anthem tech support with the details. You may have found a new bug. Let them know the model of your TV and whether it is connected to HDMI 1 output or to HDMI 2 output. Also let them know which firmware you are using in the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17696040
> 
> 
> Regardless of the audio input type, the HDMI output includes a stereo down-mix of whatever audio is currently being processed on the Main path -- 2.0 LPCM 48KHz.
> 
> 
> So no, there should not be a difference between Bitstream and LPCM input as to whether the stereo LPCM down-mix will be present on the HDMI output.
> 
> 
> Please email Anthem tech support with the details. You may have found a new bug. Let them know the model of your TV and whether it is connected to HDMI 1 output or to HDMI 2 output. Also let them know which firmware you are using in the D2v.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.

I emailed the problem to Piero at Anthem.


----------



## Kensmith48

I see on the Anthem download page that the ARC now has 2.4 v. Does this newer version include the necessary drivers that the Windows update deleted?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17696587
> 
> 
> I see on the Anthem download page that the ARC now has 2.4 v. Does this newer version include the necessary drivers that the Windows update deleted?



ARC V2.4 adds Windows 7 compatibility.


ARC V2.3 and V2.4 correct the installation function that Microsoft broke with a Windows Update in September, 2009, causing the pair of ARC licensing/calibration files to not get properly installed. Here's a previous post on that issue:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1&post17274801 


--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Do not know what it lists for these days. Conventional wisdom is 15% is a common discount with a dealer you have history with or are buying a lot of gear with at one time.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17695141
> 
> 
> I know it is off topic but want to get suggestions. I placed an order for Anthem Statement P5 for $4900 including taxes (out the door). Is this a good deal or I can find a cheaper deal?
> 
> Sorry for intereption.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ragdog* /forum/post/17693799
> 
> 
> Can someone tell me how long, after you returned your D2v to Anthem, it took to get it back. I am referring to those where the video board died in the update of firmware. Any replies here?



ragdog:


I was one of those unlucky ones whose video board died when attempting to do a firmware update. Had it shipped to anthem for repair. Normal repair and ship time is about 14 business days (3 weeks) but if you ask _really_ nicely, they'll do it in just over a week and ship it next day which is what happened to me







. I now have FW 2.08 and have no intentions of upgarding until they fix the install program.


----------



## emailtim

Can anyone recommend any reputable dealers with good prices/deals on the D2V?


I have some year-end capital expenditures to make.


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17664702
> 
> 
> ARC chart envy: The new social pressure!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "You need to lose 20 pounds AND your subwoofer is flabby!"
> 
> 
> "Twelve new cures for Richard Syndrome!"
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Seriously folks, don't struggle with this stuff on your own. Post your charts. The nastier the better! Everybody benefits, even if it is just in getting a chuckle at somebody else's misfortune.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob:


First of all, my recognition and gratitude to all the time and effort you put into this. I am finally to the D2v's tweaking stage and the amount of info in this forum, although difficult to find, is incredible.










Just for some laughs, here are my ARC charts. A few notes, I live in an apartment, in a tall concrete building. I live in the bottom part, so structural elements are quite massive. Ceilings aprox. 2.25m (something like 6.7 ft). Listening room is 15x18 ft. Front 30% is open and clear into the formal living room and dining room. Family room doubles as a listening/TV room and is, at least for a listening room, heavily furnished (front and side coffee tables etc.).


Thanks to the many posts I have read regarding ARC correction, I am confident I can get the left surround (150Hz) to match the right surround and therefore obtain a better correction solution. Also, I think I can considerably smooth out the dip (2-5Khz) on my right rear just by adjusting the rear's position. However, all this will have to wait until after the holidays (all the added decorations are part of the problem).


As I said previously, I could not conceive my listening room without ARC correction. However, until now, I really had not spent time analyzing the measurements and used them to further improve the acoustics.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17698839
> 
> 
> ragdog:
> 
> 
> Normal repair and ship time is about 14 business days (3 weeks) but if you ask _really_ nicely, they'll do it in just over a week and ship it next day which is what happened to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



I would hope that they ship it next day for something that is obviously an Anthem issue. Three weeks without my D1 would be an eternity!! Probably one of the reasons (along with the cost delta and some of the issues that are still out there) that I have not upgraded to a D2V.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I got it all to work. Windows 7 immediately picked up the Keyspan adapter and downloaded drivers. I ran setup editor and live video settings editor, backed up everything. I installed 2.08, reinstalled my backups, everything went fine.


Thanks Bob for strightening me out on the keyspan.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17701596
> 
> 
> Hi Bob:
> 
> 
> First of all, my recognition and gratitude to all the time and effort you put into this. I am finally to the D2v's tweaking stage and the amount of info in this forum, although difficult to find, is incredible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for some laughs, here are my ARC charts. A few notes, I live in an apartment, in a tall concrete building. I live in the bottom part, so structural elements are quite massive. Ceilings aprox. 2.25m (something like 6.7 ft). Listening room is 15x18 ft. Front 30% is open and clear into the formal living room and dining room. Family room doubles as a listening/TV room and is, at least for a listening room, heavily furnished (front and side coffee tables etc.).
> 
> 
> Thanks to the many posts I have read regarding ARC correction, I am confident I can get the left surround (150Hz) to match the right surround and therefore obtain a better correction solution. Also, I think I can considerably smooth out the dip (2-5Khz) on my right rear just by adjusting the rear's position. However, all this will have to wait until after the holidays (all the added decorations are part of the problem).
> 
> 
> As I said previously, I could not conceive my listening room without ARC correction. However, until now, I really had not spent time analyzing the measurements and used them to further improve the acoustics.



The basic volume level of your solution is a little high. You could lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level a couple dB before your next ARC Measurement pass to get the solution back down to 75dB.


Your Sub looks good at the low end (the roll-off is just from the Room Gain hump). At the high end it looks like you might have an 80Hz crossover still active inside the Sub. Check for that and disable it if possible. If you can't bypass it, crank it up to the highest frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.


Your room has some strong room response issues in the 50Hz range. The different speakers are coupling to that differently. LF/RF for example see that as a resonance peak, whereas the sub sees it as a cancellation dip. The difference is likely due to their relative positioning.


The 19dB swing in LS between 50 and 125Hz is the worst example of this.


One side effect of this is ARC is seeing more Room Gain in your room than is probably real/desirable.


Some careful speaker repositioning experiments could help a lot with these, but you might also want to consider adding some room treatments (bass traps) to the corners, front wall and side walls to help decouple the room from the bass frequencies a bit. That should make it easier to find practical speaker positions that also give ARC good output to work from.


One thing I think you should focus on is the degree of residual error (wobbles) in the Calculated result for Center. Getting that smoothed out will help a lot with dialog. Some of it may just be resource issues -- ARC having too much to do elsewhere. I suggest you try some Calculation experiments with the Room Gain reduced (say to 3dB from the 3.9dB ARC found) and also backing off Max EQ Frequency. You can start at the default 5KHz to see if that really helps and then keep splitting the difference to find a compromise setting that gives you a good amount of high frequency correction without letting the lower frequency wobbles show up.


The other items are things you've already spotted.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

Ok, I am in the final legs (I hope) of what has been a major upgrade of my system that started when I bought the D2 to replace my broken MC-1.

After adding an active electronic crossover betwen the D2 and the amps, I have redone ARC. The graphs are attached.


I am using whatever ARC determined was the best solution. I noticed that as compared to previous ARC run (that set up included no active crossover and same configuration for movie and music) the gain that ARC determined went up from about 0.60 to over 3. I am now using a different configuration for movies (5.1) and music (4.1 with no center channel).


Movie graphs attached; music graphs to follow shortly.


Any thoughts?


----------



## Nicoff

Here are the music graphs.


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17702408
> 
> 
> The basic volume level of your solution is a little high. You could lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level a couple dB before your next ARC Measurement pass to get the solution back down to 75dB.
> 
> 
> Your Sub looks good at the low end (the roll-off is just from the Room Gain hump). At the high end it looks like you might have an 80Hz crossover still active inside the Sub. Check for that and disable it if possible. If you can't bypass it, crank it up to the highest frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.
> 
> 
> Your room has some strong room response issues in the 50Hz range. The different speakers are coupling to that differently. LF/RF for example see that as a resonance peak, whereas the sub sees it as a cancellation dip. The difference is likely due to their relative positioning.
> 
> 
> The 19dB swing in LS between 50 and 125Hz is the worst example of this.
> 
> 
> One side effect of this is ARC is seeing more Room Gain in your room than is probably real/desirable.
> 
> 
> Some careful speaker repositioning experiments could help a lot with these, but you might also want to consider adding some room treatments (bass traps) to the corners, front wall and side walls to help decouple the room from the bass frequencies a bit. That should make it easier to find practical speaker positions that also give ARC good output to work from.
> 
> 
> One thing I think you should focus on is the degree of residual error (wobbles) in the Calculated result for Center. Getting that smoothed out will help a lot with dialog. Some of it may just be resource issues -- ARC having too much to do elsewhere. I suggest you try some Calculation experiments with the Room Gain reduced (say to 3dB from the 3.9dB ARC found) and also backing off Max EQ Frequency. You can start at the default 5KHz to see if that really helps and then keep splitting the difference to find a compromise setting that gives you a good amount of high frequency correction without letting the lower frequency wobbles show up.
> 
> 
> The other items are things you've already spotted.
> 
> --Bob



Right on Bob:


Reduced gain to 3.25, raised cutoffs on everything but main and surround, reduced correction to 15k. A little speaker movement and VOILA.










Despite horrible room acustics, for the most part I was able to get +/- .5 through to abot 15K . Almost dead on save for a couple of wobbles here and there (in sub and tweeter range), but trully a flat response at just over 74dB.


Sound tests are noticebly better.


Great forum, great product.


I decided to buy external DACs. I am very skeptical though. I belive that with a reclocker in line, the D2v DACs should be on par with top of the line. By mid late january, I will comment on the D2v vs the dedicated outboard DACs I ordered.


----------



## peechus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/17702111
> 
> 
> I got it all to work. Windows 7 immediately picked up the Keyspan adapter and downloaded drivers. I ran setup editor and live video settings editor, backed up everything. I installed 2.08, reinstalled my backups, everything went fine.
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob for strightening me out on the keyspan.



Bob, Am ready to set up 2.08. How do I do access and use set up editor and live video settings editor? Peechus


----------



## shawnwalters

I'm running 2.08 (the beta version) and I have a few of issues. The occurred with the previous versions as well, but seem to have gotten worse with the 2.08. They are:


1) From my Comcast Motorola box if I fast forward or pause (even for a few seconds) a recording I did on my DVR, once I resume play the audio is gone. I'm guessing the anthem thinks it's muted or something. The only fix is to restart the anthem. This bug is reallllly annoying.


2) The next one is when I watch a 16:9 blu ray, I have a dedicated input on the anthem that has the video adjust settings to fit my preference. But I'd say 50% of the time when I change to that input it displays the full picture and not my custom crop setting. It even shows that it's on the custom crop when I go to the video adjust menu. When I change it to 16:9 it does nothing, but when I go back to custom crop then it goes to the correct setting.


3) And finally when watching a DTS HD-MA track on my Oppo Bdp, I set the audio on the oppo to DTS HD-MA, but my anthem it shows DTS, not DTS HD-MA. When I play the exact same blu ray on my popcorn hour, it shows DTS HD-MA on the anthem. So I'm wondering if this one is an Oppo problem or an anthem one?


Any ideas on these?


Thanks


----------



## Nicoff

Follow up to my previous post:

Using the same configuration for music (4.1) I have changed the targets as folows:

-made the L/R full range and allowed them to go as low as possible

-changed to subwoofer crossover from the original ARC-derived of 120 to 80 Hz.


The graphs and targets are attached.


Any comments? Bob?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/17706332
> 
> 
> I'm running 2.08 (the beta version) and I have a few of issues. The occurred with the previous versions as well, but seem to have gotten worse with the 2.08. They are:
> 
> 
> 1) From my Comcast Motorola box if I fast forward or pause (even for a few seconds) a recording I did on my DVR, once I resume play the audio is gone. I'm guessing the anthem thinks it's muted or something. The only fix is to restart the anthem. This bug is reallllly annoying.
> 
> 
> 2) The next one is when I watch a 16:9 blu ray, I have a dedicated input on the anthem that has the video adjust settings to fit my preference. But I'd say 50% of the time when I change to that input it displays the full picture and not my custom crop setting. It even shows that it's on the custom crop when I go to the video adjust menu. When I change it to 16:9 it does nothing, but when I go back to custom crop then it goes to the correct setting.
> 
> 
> 3) And finally when watching a DTS HD-MA track on my Oppo Bdp, I set the audio on the oppo to DTS HD-MA, but my anthem it shows DTS, not DTS HD-MA. When I play the exact same blu ray on my popcorn hour, it shows DTS HD-MA on the anthem. So I'm wondering if this one is an Oppo problem or an anthem one?
> 
> 
> Any ideas on these?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Hate to suggest this one but for the DTS-MA issue, I'm assuming you have the oppo set to bitstream and are using hdmi not coax or optical for outputting the sound.

John


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17708072
> 
> 
> Hate to suggest this one but for the DTS-MA issue, I'm assuming you have the oppo set to bitstream and are using hdmi not coax or optical for outputting the sound.
> 
> John



Of course
 






Thanks for making sure though!


----------



## jayray

Do anyother discs have this same problem?

John


----------



## Texas steve

Bob ordered a 83 today - Merry Xmas to me!


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17708101
> 
> 
> Do anyother discs have this same problem?
> 
> John



Was this to me? If so yes all BD's only show "DTS" on the Anthem when the Oppo is set to DTS HD-MA. TrueHD, DolbyHD etc work, just not DTS HD MA. Luckily I don't use the Oppo much except for rentals and tv series. But I'm watching Lost now and would like to be able to have the HD audio to go along with the awesome picture


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/17708894
> 
> 
> Was this to me? If so yes all BD's only show "DTS" on the Anthem when the Oppo is set to DTS HD-MA. TrueHD, DolbyHD etc work, just not DTS HD MA. Luckily I don't use the Oppo much except for rentals and tv series. But I'm watching Lost now and would like to be able to have the HD audio to go along with the awesome picture



Do you have another BD player to test with your AVM50v?

John


----------



## DesertRatNM

Lot's of people use the Oppo BDP-83 blu-ray player. I can't find the preset memory code so I can use Anthem remote to access. Anyone out there know the 5 digit code? Thanks

Todd


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17708966
> 
> 
> Do you have another BD player to test with your AVM50v?
> 
> John



Yes, but I just figured it out! The "Secondary Audio" in the setup menu was set to on. I changed it to off and now it shows DTS MA










Thanks for the help - still need to find a fix for the other two now!


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/17706332
> 
> 
> I'm running 2.08 (the beta version) and I have a few of issues. The occurred with the previous versions as well, but seem to have gotten worse with the 2.08. They are:
> 
> 
> 1) From my Comcast Motorola box if I fast forward or pause (even for a few seconds) a recording I did on my DVR, once I resume play the audio is gone. I'm guessing the anthem thinks it's muted or something. The only fix is to restart the anthem. This bug is reallllly annoying.
> 
> 
> 2) The next one is when I watch a 16:9 blu ray, I have a dedicated input on the anthem that has the video adjust settings to fit my preference. But I'd say 50% of the time when I change to that input it displays the full picture and not my custom crop setting. It even shows that it's on the custom crop when I go to the video adjust menu. When I change it to 16:9 it does nothing, but when I go back to custom crop then it goes to the correct setting.
> 
> 
> 3) And finally when watching a DTS HD-MA track on my Oppo Bdp, I set the audio on the oppo to DTS HD-MA, but my anthem it shows DTS, not DTS HD-MA. When I play the exact same blu ray on my popcorn hour, it shows DTS HD-MA on the anthem. So I'm wondering if this one is an Oppo problem or an anthem one?
> 
> 
> Any ideas on these?
> 
> 
> Thanks




If this helps, I too have the audio problem when I press fast forward with my Shaw Direct Motorola Box. I agree, I think the D2V thinks the box is muted as all I have to do to fix it is hit volume up or down and it clicks in. My Direct TV Box is fine and has no such issues.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17711264
> 
> 
> If this helps, I too have the audio problem when I press fast forward with my Shaw Direct Motorola Box. I agree, I think the D2V thinks the box is muted as all I have to do to fix it is hit volume up or down and it clicks in. My Direct TV Box is fine and has no such issues.



The Moto DVR probably sends a MUTE Status via HDMI.


I'll predict if you used COMPONENT Cable for Video and

Optical for Audio - you WOULD NOT have the problem.


Remember there is NO different in PQ or AQ by not using HDMI.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17711551
> 
> 
> The Moto DVR probably sends a MUTE Status via HDMI.
> 
> 
> I'll predict if you used COMPONENT Cable for Video and
> 
> Optical for Audio - you WOULD NOT have the problem.
> 
> 
> Remember there is NO different in PQ or AQ by not using HDMI.



That is what I am using.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17712703
> 
> 
> That is what I am using.



Very Strange - there is NO HANDSHAKE protocol - except for HDMI.

The D2v should just see bits on Optical and Pick up the Audio when

your DVR stops fast forwarding










It kind of points the finger at the Shaw Direct Motorola Box


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17712719
> 
> 
> Very Strange - there is NO HANDSHAKE protocol - except for HDMI.
> 
> The D2v should just see bits on Optical and Pick up the Audio when
> 
> your DVR stops fast forwarding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It kind of points the finger at the Shaw Direct Motorola Box




There have been many problems with this particular model, this is just one of many. I just tried to make the problem rear it's ugly head but could not, so it only does it sometimes.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17712784
> 
> 
> There have been many problems with this particular model, this is just one of many. I just tried to make the problem rear it's ugly head but could not, so it only does it sometimes.


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17712719
> 
> 
> Very Strange - there is NO HANDSHAKE protocol - except for HDMI.
> 
> The D2v should just see bits on Optical and Pick up the Audio when
> 
> your DVR stops fast forwarding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It kind of points the finger at the Shaw Direct Motorola Box



I frequently loose digital audio on the Anthem AES/EBU from my digital server. I have not been able to isolate the problem, it usually happens when the music server is powered after the Anthem is turned on. It usually resets itself after switching sources.


Up until your post, it seemedd to me like some sort of handshake issue (bit rate/samplerate) on the incoming signal.


Anyone else having similar problems. I am trying to get more info on this issue before bothering the peolpe at Anthem (I am curreently working with the auto digital setting to see if this takes care of the problem).


----------



## bluemark81

I'm trying a game thru the PS3 and the Anthem is showing PCM 7.1+THX Cinema, but it is only playing thru my main L + R channels. The PS3 is connected via HDMI. It is the first time I've tried the PS3 since getting the D2v but when I had the AVM50, I always had surround sound from this same game. I think my settings are the same, but I'm kind of at a lost as to what is going on. I tried another game and got the same 2 ch sound.


Edit: I tried a movie and also tried streaming music and they both seem to play as they should. Why would this be occurring with games only?


----------



## husker du




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17713226
> 
> 
> I'm trying a game thru the PS3 and the Anthem is showing PCM 7.1+THX Cinema, but it is only playing thru my main L + R channels. The PS3 is connected via HDMI. It is the first time I've tried the PS3 since getting the D2v but when I had the AVM50, I always had surround sound from this same game. I think my settings are the same, but I'm kind of at a lost as to what is going on. I tried another game and got the same 2 ch sound.
> 
> 
> Edit: I tried a movie and also tried streaming music and they both seem to play as they should. Why would this be occurring with games only?



What game are you playing? I had the same issue with Tiger Woods 10 that I have not been able to resolve.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17714338
> 
> 
> What game are you playing? I had the same issue with Tiger Woods 10 that I have not been able to resolve.



The two games I tried were:


Call of Duty 4 - Modern Warfare; and

Tom Clancy's End War.


I haven't bothered trying any others yet.


Thought Tiger had 12?


----------



## runnerlk

Looking for a new player to integrate with my D2v. I seem to remember the Oppo plays nicely. I have a Pioneer Elite BDP-05 which i will be relagating to another TV.


Any info greatly appreciated.


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/17716572
> 
> 
> Looking for a new player to integrate with my D2v. I seem to remember the Oppo plays nicely. I have a Pioneer Elite BDP-05 which i will be relagating to another TV.
> 
> 
> Any info greatly appreciated.



There is one man in this thread that could speak authoritatively to that question... and I'll bet he shows up with the definitive answer...


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17713127
> 
> 
> I frequently loose digital audio on the Anthem AES/EBU from my digital server. I have not been able to isolate the problem, it usually happens when the music server is powered after the Anthem is turned on. It usually resets itself after switching sources.
> 
> 
> Up until your post, it seemedd to me like some sort of handshake issue (bit rate/samplerate) on the incoming signal.
> 
> 
> Anyone else having similar problems. I am trying to get more info on this issue before bothering the peolpe at Anthem (I am curreently working with the auto digital setting to see if this takes care of the problem).



I am haveing the same type of issues with my D2v. I have a DirecTV HR-20 HD-DVR and I have to sequence the power off and on the DVR in order to get sound. I am using all HDMI connections. There are may times when I select a source component with the D2v on and I am getting no sound. I either have to cycle the power on the source component or on the D2v to get the sound going. I have a Marantz DV9600 CD/DVD/DVD-A/SACD player and if I am listening to a CD via HDMI, and it finishes and I do not play another CD within a few minutes, I get no sound when I try to play another CD and I have to cycle the power on the D2v. I have the same issues with my Pioneer BDP-09FD Blu-ray player. This has become very frustrating.


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/17716572
> 
> 
> Looking for a new player to integrate with my D2v. I seem to remember the Oppo plays nicely. I have a Pioneer Elite BDP-05 which i will be relagating to another TV.
> 
> 
> Any info greatly appreciated.



I have the Oppo and it plays very nicely with my D2. I liked the Oppo well enough to replace my stand alone CD player. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/17717130
> 
> 
> I am having the same type of issues with my D2v. I have a DirecTV HR-20 HD-DVR ... I have the same issues with my Pioneer BDP-09FD Blu-ray player. ...



Wonderful.


These are my 2 source components and I just pulled the trigger on a D2V !!!


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17711551
> 
> 
> The Moto DVR probably sends a MUTE Status via HDMI.
> 
> 
> I'll predict if you used COMPONENT Cable for Video and
> 
> Optical for Audio - you WOULD NOT have the problem.
> 
> 
> Remember there is NO different in PQ or AQ by not using HDMI.



I'm using HDMI for my Motorola, I'll try optical and component and see if it still happens. Thanks for the suggestion


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/17716572
> 
> 
> Looking for a new player to integrate with my D2v. I seem to remember the Oppo plays nicely. I have a Pioneer Elite BDP-05 which i will be relagating to another TV.
> 
> 
> Any info greatly appreciated.



I also have the oppo/D2 combo. They play well together.

If you plan to connect with HDMI there is no need for the SE model. The improvements in the 83-SE are all on the analog side. Unless youplan to use '6-ch' in on the Anthem the extra $300 isn't necessary. The Anthems have all the d/a magic you'll need.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New D2v / AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.08a Now on Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem this afternoon has placed "test" firmware V2.08a for the D2v and AVM 50v on their password protected download page.


The "official" version of firmware for those units remains V2.08 (5nov09).


Release notes for changes since that "official" version read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.08a beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Updated OKI bootloader to reduce chance of a video board programming failure and support restoring non-functioning video boards when a serial strap is installed.
> 
> 
> 2. Changes to HDCP code.
> 
> 
> 3. Changes to impedance and drive strength settings for HDMI switches.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08 (20nov):
> 
> 
> 1. Improved HDMI switching aimed at certain cable/sat receivers with native output.



The primary feature of this "test" release is the expected update to the installer itself to reduce, if not completely eliminate, instances of the video board becoming corrupted during a failed install attempt -- thus requiring the unit to be returned to the factory for corrective reprogramming of the video board.


Evidently they have also included a change that will support field reprogramming of corrupted video boards (with the use of a special cable from tech support) if this failure mode ever returns.


NOTE: You have to get your firmware up to at least V2.08a to take advantage of this. Fortunately, installing V2.08a should be much less prone to this type of failure to begin with.


The other changes are all HDMI related -- presumably an attempt to tackle some of the lingering HDMI issues with certain source and display devices. I don't have any details on those so we'll just have to experiment and see what problems get fixed in this version.


The various audio issues we've had pending since "official" V2.08 have apparently NOT been addressed in this "test" release. We'll have to check to confirm which issues remain, but there are no expected fixes in this release. It would not surprise me if we have one more "test" release with such fixes prior to the Dolby Volume "test" release. Nor would it surprise me if those fixes are lumped into the Dolby Volume test release itself. Either way, I expect a Dolby Volume "test" release around the end of this month.


[We here at "Bob Pariseau" apologize to folks who've been trying to reach us with various questions. Family issues have cut into our posting time. Our supervisors are still trying to figure out how we slipped our shackles....]

--Bob


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17711551
> 
> 
> The Moto DVR probably sends a MUTE Status via HDMI.
> 
> 
> I'll predict if you used COMPONENT Cable for Video and
> 
> Optical for Audio - you WOULD NOT have the problem.
> 
> 
> Remember there is NO different in PQ or AQ by not using HDMI.



Changing from hdmi to component and optical for the Motorola worked! No more audio issues, thanks











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17721898
> 
> 
> [We here at "Bob Pariseau" apologize to folks who've been trying to reach us with various questions. Family issues have cut into our posting time.
> 
> --Bob



Hope everything is ok.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

"Test" firmware V2.08a was also expected to include some Deep Color video processing improvements, but I note that this is not spelled out in the release notes.


I've got some things I want to test in that regard, but folks using Deep Color HDMI source or display devices should be on the lookout for any changes. Report here if you find anything.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/17716572
> 
> 
> Looking for a new player to integrate with my D2v. I seem to remember the Oppo plays nicely. I have a Pioneer Elite BDP-05 which i will be relagating to another TV.
> 
> 
> Any info greatly appreciated.



The Oppo BDP-83 is the bee's knees.


I personally have no interest in the 83SE, but some folks really dote on analog audio, and for those folks the 83SE is one HECK of a bargain.


If you intend to use only an HDMI connection from the player (as I do), the 83SE provides you nothing other than the fact that it comes bundled with the RS-232 control port (which is an option on the standard 83).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17713226
> 
> 
> I'm trying a game thru the PS3 and the Anthem is showing PCM 7.1+THX Cinema, but it is only playing thru my main L + R channels. The PS3 is connected via HDMI. It is the first time I've tried the PS3 since getting the D2v but when I had the AVM50, I always had surround sound from this same game. I think my settings are the same, but I'm kind of at a lost as to what is going on. I tried another game and got the same 2 ch sound.
> 
> 
> Edit: I tried a movie and also tried streaming music and they both seem to play as they should. Why would this be occurring with games only?



The PS3 has a long history of sending out LPCM audio with more channels than the content actually uses -- leaving the excess channels silent.


E.g., playing a CD as 5.1 or 7.1 LPCM with audio only present in the LF/RF channels. This is a nuisance as a receiver or pre-pro like the Anthem won't let you apply an audio surround processing mode to that since it has no way of knowing whether the input surround channels (silence) are real or not.


This is probably what's going on with your game. Look for an option in the game to actually turn on surround audio output so those extra output channels might actually have some content in them.


There are ways to trick the PS3 into sending out real Stereo by disabling certain sampling rates for 5.1 and 7.1 output. See the PS3 threads in the Blu-Ray player forum for example.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17711264
> 
> 
> If this helps, I too have the audio problem when I press fast forward with my Shaw Direct Motorola Box. I agree, I think the D2V thinks the box is muted as all I have to do to fix it is hit volume up or down and it clicks in. My Direct TV Box is fine and has no such issues.



I suspect this is a problem in the algorithm the Anthem uses to keep audio input muted until it is certain there is real audio present in the digital input stream. I.e., input signal detection.


If you have a repeatable case, email the details to Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/17709193
> 
> 
> Yes, but I just figured it out! The "Secondary Audio" in the setup menu was set to on. I changed it to off and now it shows DTS MA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help - still need to find a fix for the other two now!



Correct. Turning on Secondary Audio in the Oppo forces it to (1) use the lossy, compatibility alternative audio track instead of the lossless audio track you might have selected, and (2) re-encode to DTS (at 1.5Mbps) for Bitstream output after Secondary Audio mixing, whether or not there actually is any Secondary Audio at the moment.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/17706286
> 
> 
> Bob, Am ready to set up 2.08. How do I do access and use set up editor and live video settings editor? Peechus



The Utility programs will be found in the Utilities folder of the ARC install kit.


You can just download the ARC V2.4 install kit from the Anthem web site.


The utilities themselves need no special installation -- you can run them right out of the folder you download and UnZip.


Settings Backup is trivial to use. It only records Setup menu stuff -- not Video Source Adjust menu stuff. Use Live Video Settings Editor to "Get" and then "Save" your Video Source Adjust menu settings (for all sources at once).


Setup Editor (view and manipulate the Setup menu settings) is pretty obvious. Just try it. If all you want to do is make a backup copy of your Setup menu settings, Settings Backup is easier.


Live Video Settings Editor (view, back up, or manipulate the Video Source Adjust menu settings) is a little more confusing but if you play with it a bit, you'll get the hang of it pretty quickly. Most changes you make will immediately appear in the Video Source Adjust menu in the attached Anthem processor. I.e., you can make changes on the fly while actually viewing content. But things like Custom Video Timings and Custom Gamma Correction need to be Uploaded into the unit after you create them in the Utility. Then you can select them for use in the Setup and Video Source Adjust menus respectively.


There is no written documentation for any of these.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I installed the "test" V2.08a firmware in my D2v late this evening.


First, be aware that the new installer takes longer -- about 25 minutes to complete the job now.


Next, when the installer gets to the point of programming the video board, it now does it in multiple shorter passes -- presumably each pass doing just a small part of the job. Folks who are used to the way the prior installers worked may see this "Programming Video Processor" progress bar restart many many times and worry that the installer is stuck in a loop. *BE PATIENT! IT WILL EVENTUALLY FINISH!*


You'll know it is finally done programming the video processor when the Verification pass for the video processor begins. The Verification runs in one long pass the way we are used to from prior installers.


If this new installer does the job reliably, it is well worth the extra install time.


-------------------------------------


I've done only limited testing so far. I've spotted one unexpected new improvement and one serious problem.


The new improvement is that the D2v now accepts IR (remote control) commands much earlier in its power-up cycle. The commands are buffered and applied when the power-up finishes. This means you can issue a source change while the unit is powering up and it will actually take effect in this new firmware instead of just being missed/discarded. This makes the power-up command sequences sent by programmable remotes (e.g., Harmony 880) work more like what happened with the original D2. The D2v still takes just as long to power up -- the new DSP's have a lot to do as they unit is powering up. But the commands that come in while that is happening don't get lost.


The serious problem is that the new HDMI code will not handshake properly if the input resolution is 1080p/60 and the data size is 30-bit.


1080p/60 input with 36-bit and with 24-bit continue to work fine.


1080p/23.976 input with 30-bit also works fine.


And 1080i and below work fine regardless.


This is a nuisance for me since I need to use 30-bit (Dithered) output from my Oppo to get around a subtle color problem in the D2v when it is processing video for my DVI display.


The workaround to still use 30-bit (Dithered) with the Oppo is to use 1080i until the movie starts and then 1080p/23.976 while the movie is playing. This can be done with 1080p/24 Auto in the Oppo and using the Resolution button on the Oppo remote to change between 1080i and 1080p.


I've sent an email to Anthem on this issue.

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17722022
> 
> 
> The Oppo BDP-83 is the bee's knees.
> 
> 
> I personally have no interest in the 83SE, but some folks really dote on analog audio, and for those folks the 83SE is one HECK of a bargain.
> 
> 
> If you intend to use only an HDMI connection from the player (as I do), the 83SE provides you nothing other than the fact that it comes bundled with the RS-232 control port (which is an option on the standard 83).
> 
> --Bob



Great info guys.


I guess I am one of those doters being a vinyl collector. I am leaning toward the 83SE because I am considering replacing my Pioneer Elite BDP-05(actually moving to another room), a Pioneer DV-58 used for multi-channel SACD and DVD-A and a Consonance 2 channel tube SACD. Currently I front the D2V with a Conrad Johnson CT-5 tube 2ch pre for 2 channel music. What I would like to do is use the analog audio on the 83SE to the CJ and HDMI to the D2v. I very rarely listen to digital music( makes my ears bleed)







So I figured I'd streamline my system without giving up too much AQ.


----------



## Pixiu

Setting up a full blown Anthem / Paradigm system.


Equipment = S8v3, C5, P5, A2(for rears only), D2V, and a Sub 2 (when if finally arrives).


My question is what cables to use for interconnects and speaker wire? The more popular cobinations after extensive reading on the web seem to be as follows in no particular order.


1) Kimber Hero and 8TC

2) PNF Icon and Symphony

3) DH Labs Air Matrix and Q10


Any advice of what cables match/sound the best with my proposed system? Also will be going with XLR connections. Thank you.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pixiu* /forum/post/17723290
> 
> 
> Setting up a full blown Anthem / Paradigm system.
> 
> 
> Equipment = S8v3, C5, P5, A2(for rears only), D2V, and a Sub 2 (when if finally arrives).
> 
> 
> My question is what cables to use for interconnects and speaker wire? The more popular cobinations after extensive reading on the web seem to be as follows in no particular order.
> 
> 
> 1) Kimber Hero and 8TC
> 
> 2) PNF Icon and Symphony
> 
> 3) DH Labs Air Matrix and Q10
> 
> 
> Any advice of what cables match/sound the best with my proposed system? Also will be going with XLR connections. Thank you.



My system is very similar to yours and after several years of using various cables, have gone with monoprice hdmi cables and run-of-the-mill speaker cables. I have yet to hear significant diff from expensive cables but that is a discussion for another day.

John


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/17717130
> 
> 
> I am haveing the same type of issues with my D2v. I have a DirecTV HR-20 HD-DVR and I have to sequence the power off and on the DVR in order to get sound. I am using all HDMI connections. There are may times when I select a source component with the D2v on and I am getting no sound. I either have to cycle the power on the source component or on the D2v to get the sound going. I have a Marantz DV9600 CD/DVD/DVD-A/SACD player and if I am listening to a CD via HDMI, and it finishes and I do not play another CD within a few minutes, I get no sound when I try to play another CD and I have to cycle the power on the D2v. I have the same issues with my Pioneer BDP-09FD Blu-ray player. This has become very frustrating.



Hi,


I experience the same symptom on occasion when switching from a Bell ExpressVu receiver (connected via component/optical) to my DirectTV receiver (connected via HDMI) I estimate it occurs once every 10 switches and is worked around by switching to any source and back again. I have the official 2.08 formware only. Not sure if it is the same issue, but thought I would add the source switch workaround.


Take Care,

Mike


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/17688405
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I certainly had the issue with overpowering dialog from the rear surrounds in AL - Cinema with my D2v. I've just tried DD2.0 and PCM with AL - Cinema via Dig Optical Input and now the problem is gone! (It had occurred with PCM input via Dig Optical Input)
> 
> 
> Tried the same Newscast (PCM) which I confirmed as exemplifying the issue on channel 218, Bell ExpressVu and dialog is mostly from the front again. The descripton lk100 and jayray give is consistent with not having the issue.
> 
> 
> What has changed since the time of last confirming the issue and now is:
> 
> - User settings cleared again - when I took my D2v to Anthem to have the Video daughter board (HDMI outs) replaced.
> 
> - Unit unplugged from AC Mains - both during the above visit and also last night as I put a new cabinet in - I had to disconnect/reconnect my whole setup
> 
> 
> I don't know if it is also possible Anthem did apply any firmware while my unit was in repair. (I was already at 2.08 when I brought it in.)
> 
> 
> I suggest Studly try this again: (Based upon non-Technical observation)
> 
> 
> - save user settings, restore factory default user settings, power unit off
> 
> - power unit on, re-load saved user settings
> 
> - check if the dialog is still overpowering from the rears
> 
> - if yes, then unplug the AC Mains for about an hour and try again
> 
> 
> Confirmed my speaker levels manually, all sound about even. I am happy to have AL - Cinema usable again.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



Hi All,


Nearly forgot to retract the above. I had completely diconnected/rewired my components due to the introduction of a new cabinet - in truth I'd found the Denon receiver which powers my rear speakers through it's mains had been in Pro Logic mode due to my switching it to a different source upon reconnection. This resulted in the rear speaker volume being lower and masking the issue.


When I placed the Denon back in Direct mode, the issue re-appeared. Though I do now see it is possible that the rear volume is just too high in this mode. Other modes remain consistent. It is important to note though - my rear level did not change. It seems as if the rear level within AL - Cinema has changed some time ago, perhaps with firmware 2.08. Subsequent ARC runs have not changed the issue.


Anything new from Anthem support on this?


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mike,

Please contact Anthem tech support directly with details of what you have found, particularly if you are willing to do some experiments for them to isolate what it is about your setup that is producing this. They are having trouble reproducing the problem.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

Complete flash erase and load of 2.08a successful.


----------



## netroamer

After the above noted load of 2.08a, and before I loaded any settings, I hooked up the left channel balanced output and after the unbalanced output to my Audio Control SA3050A Spectrum Analyzer line-in and set it to the SPL mode. The output from the D2v in both were exactly 75db. Where is the 6db overshoot i have read about coming from? Is it an ARC issue? I also checked the sub out and it too was 75db.


ADDITIONAL NOTE: I ran ARC with the Left Front hooked up to the Spectrum Analyzer and the output was 74db both balanced and unbalanced. If I set the test lever to -1db the output changed to 73db.


----------



## TJG55

Anyone seen the new Anthem BD player?

tjg


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17722821
> 
> 
> I installed the "test" V2.08a firmware in my D2v late this evening.
> 
> 
> First, be aware that the new installer takes longer -- about 25 minutes to complete the job now.
> 
> 
> Next, when the installer gets to the point of programming the video board, it now does it in multiple shorter passes -- presumably each pass doing just a small part of the job. Folks who are used to the way the prior installers worked may see this "Programming Video Processor" progress bar restart many many times and worry that the installer is stuck in a loop. *BE PATIENT! IT WILL EVENTUALLY FINISH!*
> 
> 
> You'll know it is finally done programming the video processor when the Verification pass for the video processor begins. The Verification runs in one long pass the way we are used to from prior installers.
> 
> 
> If this new installer does the job reliably, it is well worth the extra install time.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I've done only limited testing so far. I've spotted one unexpected new improvement and one serious problem.
> 
> 
> The new improvement is that the D2v now accepts IR (remote control) commands much earlier in its power-up cycle. The commands are buffered and applied when the power-up finishes. This means you can issue a source change while the unit is powering up and it will actually take effect in this new firmware instead of just being missed/discarded. This makes the power-up command sequences sent by programmable remotes (e.g., Harmony 880) work more like what happened with the original D2. The D2v still takes just as long to power up -- the new DSP's have a lot to do as they unit is powering up. But the commands that come in while that is happening don't get lost.
> 
> 
> The serious problem is that the new HDMI code will not handshake properly if the input resolution is 1080p/60 and the data size is 30-bit.
> 
> 
> 1080p/60 input with 36-bit and with 24-bit continue to work fine.
> 
> 
> 1080p/23.976 input with 30-bit also works fine.
> 
> 
> And 1080i and below work fine regardless.
> 
> 
> This is a nuisance for me since I need to use 30-bit (Dithered) output from my Oppo to get around a subtle color problem in the D2v when it is processing video for my DVI display.
> 
> 
> The workaround to still use 30-bit (Dithered) with the Oppo is to use 1080i until the movie starts and then 1080p/23.976 while the movie is playing. This can be done with 1080p/24 Auto in the Oppo and using the Resolution button on the Oppo remote to change between 1080i and 1080p.
> 
> 
> I've sent an email to Anthem on this issue.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


I just installed 2.08a. The install went as smoothly as any other I have done and took the usual amount of time which is about 12 to 15 minutes.


If I notice any issues I will report back.


Regards,


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17723595
> 
> 
> My system is very similar to yours and after several years of using various cables, have gone with monoprice hdmi cables and run-of-the-mill speaker cables. I have yet to hear significant diff from expensive cables but that is a discussion for another day.
> 
> John



i had an Hitachi projector (720p) and am using the monoprice HDMI cables (1m) and 4:1 switcher - i had no problems

i upgraded to the LTX500 (1080p) and now have random glitches and all sources

i traced it to the cables and switcher

haven't fixed it yet as i want to get the D2v and then i'll see what i need


i believed all HDMI cables were created sort of equal, but not any more


mark


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/17726407
> 
> 
> i had an Hitachi projector (720p) and am using the monoprice HDMI cables (1m) and 4:1 switcher - i had no problems
> 
> i upgraded to the LTX500 (1080p) and now have random glitches and all sources
> 
> i traced it to the cables and switcher
> 
> haven't fixed it yet as i want to get the D2v and then i'll see what i need
> 
> 
> i believed all HDMI cables were created sort of equal, but not any more
> 
> 
> mark



I use a 50' monoprice cable from D2v to BenQ W5000 1080p pj and have no video issues at all. Picture is pristine.

John


----------



## mkaye

i have a 10m to my LTX500 and it is OK

the US$4.99 1m cables are not (i have 2 and they both exhibit problems i.e. they won't show a picture from my BD player at all)


mark


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/17726629
> 
> 
> i have a 10m to my LTX500 and it is OK
> 
> the US$4.99 1m cables are not (i have 2 and they both exhibit problems i.e. they won't show a picture from my BD player at all)
> 
> 
> mark



The cable that came with my oppo has been fine to the D2v.

John


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pixiu* /forum/post/17723290
> 
> 
> Setting up a full blown Anthem / Paradigm system.
> 
> 
> Equipment = S8v3, C5, P5, A2(for rears only), D2V, and a Sub 2 (when if finally arrives).
> 
> 
> My question is what cables to use for interconnects and speaker wire? The more popular cobinations after extensive reading on the web seem to be as follows in no particular order.
> 
> 
> 1) Kimber Hero and 8TC
> 
> 2) PNF Icon and Symphony
> 
> 3) DH Labs Air Matrix and Q10
> 
> 
> Any advice of what cables match/sound the best with my proposed system? Also will be going with XLR connections. Thank you.



I will not use branded speaker cables that cost anywhere from 5 to 10X their worth. For me, cables should be neutral, what they add is resistance when they are thin and are used in long runs. I personally use GENERIC Gauge 10 speaker cables and they sound fine.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/17714338
> 
> 
> What game are you playing? I had the same issue with Tiger Woods 10 that I have not been able to resolve.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17722040
> 
> 
> The PS3 has a long history of sending out LPCM audio with more channels than the content actually uses -- leaving the excess channels silent.
> 
> 
> E.g., playing a CD as 5.1 or 7.1 LPCM with audio only present in the LF/RF channels. This is a nuisance as a receiver or pre-pro like the Anthem won't let you apply an audio surround processing mode to that since it has no way of knowing whether the input surround channels (silence) are real or not.
> 
> 
> This is probably what's going on with your game. Look for an option in the game to actually turn on surround audio output so those extra output channels might actually have some content in them.
> 
> 
> There are ways to trick the PS3 into sending out real Stereo by disabling certain sampling rates for 5.1 and 7.1 output. See the PS3 threads in the Blu-Ray player forum for example.
> 
> --Bob



I went to my "Sound Settings" in the PS3 and changed my "Audio Multi-Output" to off and this seemed to correct the problem, even though I only have HDMI connected, so changing this to off doesn't make much sense to me as to why this fixes it.


----------



## RIppolito

Everybody,


I would really appreciate some help in setting up the color spaces for...


1) PS3 - HDMI out - I use it for displaying digital photos, Blu-rays, once in a while for games

2) SA8300HD - HDMI out from the cable box (Time Warner)

3) Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M - HDMI in from AVM-50


Given that I want to share the HDMI out of the Anthem, what would you recommend for color space settings?


I have some other questions... does anyone have a recommended workflow for how to set up the best video quality using either the built-in video test patterns, or test DVDs? How do you set it up for the best picture with cable input, given that there aren't any test signals for that video path? If these have been answered somewhere else, please accept my apologies.


Thanks in advance,


Ron


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Bob could you list the advantages or reasons to upgrade from a D2 to a D2v?

I currently have a D2 and it is working great with no problems and I am using an Oppo Blu-ray for playing movies and have two DVRs hooked up also along with a CD player. I use a 65" Panasonic V10 for a display. Everything is looking and sounding great. Any reason to upgrade? I know the D2v is suppose to have a better Video Processor and 1.3 HDMI. I'd like to know the advantages or performance differences not only for myself but in case I have to pitch it to my wife. Ha!














Right now I am very happy with the D2.







Anybody else who has made the switch from a D2 to a D2v feel free to chime in.

Thanks!


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17728985
> 
> 
> Bob could you list the advantages or reasons to upgrade from a D2 to a D2v?
> 
> 
> Right now I am very happy with the D2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody else who has made the switch from a D2 to a D2v feel free to chime in.
> 
> Thanks!



I too am very interested in the groups response to this as I am very happy with my D2 as well and am considering the benefits of an upgrade, (is it better to plan to upgrade to a D3 from a D2 or a D2v). Unfortunately I cannot take advantage of 7.1, my Sharp 92 Aquos 52" LCD cannot take advantage of deep color that my Denon 3800 outputs! From an expansion perspective for 2010, I am planning on adding an Ethernet media server system for downloading content and centralizing my audio and video, (DVD and BD) media library.


Looking forward to the groups comments!


Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

With all the bugs associated with the D2v I'd stick with the D2. When the D3 comes out I'd still wait 6 months for all of those bugs to get fixed.


----------



## jayray

I uploaded 2.08a (14, Dec. 09) and would like to reiterate Bob's warning about the loading time. In particular the portion labeled "video processor uC loader" I think it is called, took about 10 minutes to load, going through many cycles of small uploads. Luckily Bob said to be patient or I might have thought it was a looping failure. Ultimately it loaded and I am now going to try it out.

John


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17730916
> 
> 
> I uploaded 2.08a (14, Dec. 09) and would like to reiterate Bob's warning about the loading time. In particular the portion labeled "video processor uC loader" I think it is called, took about 10 minutes to load, going through many cycles of small uploads. Luckily Bob said to be patient or I might have thought it was a looping failure. Ultimately it loaded and I am now going to try it out.
> 
> John



Greetings,


John, as I stated in an eariler post I didn't notice an unusually long load time when I installed it.


I guess it is better than make mention of it though for those who may.


Regards,


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17730598
> 
> 
> With all the bugs associated with the D2v I'd stick with the D2. When the D3 comes out I'd still wait 6 months for all of those bugs to get fixed.


Interesting. Thanks. Anyone else with some input??


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17733358
> 
> Interesting. Thanks. Anyone else with some input??



That's funny, I use my D2v on a daily basis and 99% of the time I enjoy incredible sound and picture. As Bob has mentioned this thread represents a

small sample of Anthem users. The D2 had many issues when first released so I think you may be deluded in thinking a future model ie. D3 would be any different.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17731182
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> John, as I stated in an eariler post I didn't notice an unusually long load time when I installed it.
> 
> 
> I guess it is better than make mention of it though for those who may.
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,

Did you get the looping uC loader issue?

John


----------



## shawnwalters




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shawnwalters* /forum/post/17721953
> 
> 
> Changing from hdmi to component and optical for the Motorola worked! No more audio issues, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope everything is ok.



Dangit! It just happened again even with the component and optical. It certainly is much better than hdmi, as that did it almost everytime, but it sucks that it's still doing it. It has to be an Anthem issue as this never happened with my Denon or any other of the Motorola boxes in my house.


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/17717130
> 
> 
> I am haveing the same type of issues with my D2v. I have a DirecTV HR-20 HD-DVR and I have to sequence the power off and on the DVR in order to get sound. I am using all HDMI connections. There are may times when I select a source component with the D2v on and I am getting no sound. I either have to cycle the power on the source component or on the D2v to get the sound going. I have a Marantz DV9600 CD/DVD/DVD-A/SACD player and if I am listening to a CD via HDMI, and it finishes and I do not play another CD within a few minutes, I get no sound when I try to play another CD and I have to cycle the power on the D2v. I have the same issues with my Pioneer BDP-09FD Blu-ray player. This has become very frustrating.



Hi LesPaul,


I just received a shipment of HDMI cables yesterday and changed all my components from Component/Optical to HDMI. Have thus far duplicated and suppressed the symptom you reported.


A summary of the symptoms I've seen with my DirectTV reciever:


1. DTV via HDMI with other components conencted Component/Optical:


- When switching to my DirectTV from a source that was Component/Optical, on occasion the sound would stop working. Switching to any source and back again worked.


2. DTV via HDMI with all components HDMI:


- Every time I would change input to the DTV receiver, the sound would not work. Even if I switched back to a previously working source, the sound would not work there also now. Powering the DTV receiver off/on worked, but I had to do this every time.


The following has thus far solved the symptom you've indicated:


- "Setup -> Source Setup" and ensuring "Auto Dig" is set to off for all sources.


It is early, but last night, every time I switched sources, the sound was still there.


Hope this helps.


Take Care,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sorry to post and run, but I'm pressed for time today. Just wanted to let folks know that I just spotted the Anthem Statement D2v received the "Best of 2009" award from Secrets of Home Theater in the category "Surround Sound Processors"!

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/best-...ct-awards.html 


--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17734698
> 
> 
> Ralph,
> 
> Did you get the looping uC loader issue?
> 
> John



Greetings,


Sorry John but I am not sure what you mean by "looping" uC loader issue? What I did see at that stage was the increment bars rising and lowering but it didn't do it for what seemed like a lenghty period.



Regards,


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17728985
> 
> 
> Bob could you list the advantages or reasons to upgrade from a D2 to a D2v?
> *I currently have a D2 and it is working great with no problems and I am using an Oppo Blu-ray for playing movies and have two DVRs hooked up also along with a CD player. I use a 65" Panasonic V10 for a display. Everything is looking and sounding great. Any reason to upgrade? I know the D2v is suppose to have a better Video Processor and 1.3 HDMI. I'd like to know the advantages or performance differences not only for myself but in case I have to pitch it to my wife. Ha!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right now I am very happy with the D2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody else who has made the switch from a D2 to a D2v feel free to chime in.*
> 
> Thanks!



I'd like to ask this question one more time since no one has really answered it.

Anyone on this thread who has had both the D2 and D2v, what are the differences in Features, Sound and Video quality between the D2 and D2v?

Thank you!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17738492
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Sorry John but I am not sure what you mean by "looping" uC loader issue? What I did see at that stage was the increment bars rising and lowering but it didn't do it for what seemed like a lenghty period.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,

At the point at which the progress bar starts the "video processor uC loader" part of the firmware upload, the progress bar started and finished over a 10-15 min. period. I'm assuming you didn't experience this.

John


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17730598
> 
> 
> With all the bugs associated with the D2v I'd stick with the D2. When the D3 comes out I'd still wait 6 months for all of those bugs to get fixed.



That's a pretty general statement with little grounding.....My D2V works perfectly with every source that I have. I'm extremely happy.


What you read here is a tiny sample of enthusiasts who have some specific issues. Who knows what that is as a percentage of the total user population, but I imagine it's tiny.


As for the D3. What D3?


----------



## Bob Anderson

Need help analyzing my ARC file!


Hi, I just completed the latest updates to the F/W on my D2/A5 and re-ran ARC. I am now starting to move my speakers around to hopefully improve the sound and would appreciate any advice one could gather from the attached ARC file.


My 5.0 speakers are Anthony Gallo 3.1 Reference with Sub, a MJ Acoustics Reference 200. Surrounds are on the manufacturers stands which are too low and due to room size, are behind the main listening/viewing chairs. I am going to have these raised with custom stand extensions.


Center is mounted on the wall underneath the TV.


Inputs are the Rogers Cable PVR fed via Component, (minimize hand shaking issues), Denon 3800 for BD, (HDMI) and Arcan DV137 for SACD, (just went Analogue to test, was HDMI).


Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


Cheers


Bob

 

AnthemRoomCorrection-BobA.zip 445.9150390625k . file


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17738994
> 
> 
> Ralph,
> 
> At the point at which the progress bar starts the "video processor uC loader" part of the firmware upload, the progress bar started and finished over a 10-15 min. period. I'm assuming you didn't experience this.
> 
> John



Greetings,


Gotcha. No I didn't experience that at all..



Regards,


----------



## gblack

I just upgraded my display to a pioneer 101FD elite which I'm quite happy about.


I've created a second video output config used by the blu-ray input. That output is configured for 1080P24, 4:4:4 data format. Film mode is set to Auto and Frame lock is set to auto.


it's my understanding that when playing a DVD (not 24P) on my blu-ray player (A sony 550) that the D2 will automatically detect that the input is film-based 60i content and output it as 60P content. When a Blu-ray is playing, the anthem should automatically detect the input as 24P and output it as 24P.


When I play blu-rays, this seems to work ok. When I put DVD's in, I get no end to handshaking. Sometimes I get pictures with obvious inverse telecine problems and sometimes the picture is fine. Looking at the OSD doesn't help as the information panel is pretty buggy - it never shows the correct output information or film being detected.


Do I have things setup properly? This is on a D2 with 1.33 SW.


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/17739285
> 
> 
> That's a pretty general statement with little grounding.....My D2V works perfectly with every source that I have. I'm extremely happy.
> 
> 
> What you read here is a tiny sample of enthusiasts who have some specific issues. Who knows what that is as a percentage of the total user population, but I imagine it's tiny.
> 
> 
> As for the D3. What D3?



The D3 I mentioned is the one ultimately coming out in the future.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Another post and run, guys. Again my apologies for not being able to respond to questions just now.


Anthem has a handle on the problem I reported with the "test" V2.08a firmware when attempting HDMI 1080p/60 30-bit input (as from the Oppo when it has 30-bit or 30-bit(Dithered) selected for output). The symptom is an HDMI handshake that never completes -- infinite retries.


The problem is limited to the HDMI 1-4 inputs in the D2v.


If you are experiencing this problem with a source device that sends 30-bit Deep Color, the workaround until Anthem can release a fix is to connect that source to the HDMI 5-8 inputs. Devices that send 36-bit Deep Color (e.g., the PS3 or the Oppo when set to 36-bit), and devices that send "normal" 24-bit will not experience this problem. The problem also won't exist for 1080p/24 input or for 1080i or lower resolution input. It is specific to 1080p/60 30-bit input.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17741815
> 
> 
> I just upgraded my display to a pioneer 101FD elite which I'm quite happy about.
> 
> 
> I've created a second video output config used by the blu-ray input. That output is configured for 1080P24, 4:4:4 data format. Film mode is set to Auto and Frame lock is set to auto.
> 
> 
> it's my understanding that when playing a DVD (not 24P) on my blu-ray player (A sony 550) that the D2 will automatically detect that the input is film-based 60i content and output it as 60P content. When a Blu-ray is playing, the anthem should automatically detect the input as 24P and output it as 24P.
> 
> 
> When I play blu-rays, this seems to work ok. When I put DVD's in, I get no end to handshaking. Sometimes I get pictures with obvious inverse telecine problems and sometimes the picture is fine. Looking at the OSD doesn't help as the information panel is pretty buggy - it never shows the correct output information or film being detected.
> 
> 
> Do I have things setup properly? This is on a D2 with 1.33 SW.



I have a D2 with v1.33. I have a different BR player (oppo bdp83) and a panny plasma for my display. Since the handshaking takes place all along the hdmi chain perhaps others with the sony BR or pioneer kuro can help with their settings. With the oppo/ D2 combo it seems to work best when *not* setting the oppo to send out 1080p/24 for dvd. If you have the choice with your Sony 550, don't convert dvd to 1080p/24. Either send it out as 480i and let the D2 process it to 1080p/60, or let the sony process it 1080p/60. Not 1080p/24. Changing video sources like dvd and cable/sat/OTA signals to 1080p/24 seems to cause more problems than its worth. Conveting to 1080p/60 seems to not cause any problems. The D2 will not change automatically to 1080p/60 output for dvd's. It will output it at the setting in the video configuration you have chosen.

In the D2 settings I set up 2 different video configurations. #1 set to output 1080p/24 for BR movies. #2 set to output 1080p/60 for dvd and satellite.

For my oppo 83 I set up 2 different sources in the D2- DVD1(renamed BluRay) and DVD2(renamed DVD). For BR playback I set the DVD1 source to output video configuration #1 at 1080p/24. For dvd playback I set the DVD2 source to output video configuration #2 at 1080p/60.

By using 2 different source set ups for the one BR/dvd component you can avoid many of the 1080p/24/60 handshaking and pq problems. You can also tweak the video processing menu in the D2 (holding down #7 on the remote) differently for dvd's and BR's, or send out the audio differently for dvd's or BR's.

This is the way I skinned the cat, and it works great. Others may have other suggestions with your Sony or Pioneer settings that may help even more. Hope it helps.

Tom


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/17744389
> 
> 
> I have a D2 with v1.33. I have a different BR player (oppo bdp83) and a panny plasma for my display. Since the handshaking takes place all along the hdmi chain perhaps others with the sony BR or pioneer kuro can help with their settings. With the oppo/ D2 combo it seems to work best when *not* setting the oppo to send out 1080p/24 for dvd. If you have the choice with your Sony 550, don't convert dvd to 1080p/24. Either send it out as 480i and let the D2 process it to 1080p/60, or let the sony process it 1080p/60. Not 1080p/24. Changing video sources like dvd and cable/sat/OTA signals to 1080p/24 seems to cause more problems than its worth. Conveting to 1080p/60 seems to not cause any problems. The D2 will not change automatically to 1080p/60 output for dvd's. It will output it at the setting in the video configuration you have chosen.
> 
> In the D2 settings I set up 2 different video configurations. #1 set to output 1080p/24 for BR movies. #2 set to output 1080p/60 for dvd and satellite.
> 
> For my oppo 83 I set up 2 different sources in the D2- DVD1(renamed BluRay) and DVD2(renamed DVD). For BR playback I set the DVD1 source to output video configuration #1 at 1080p/24. For dvd playback I set the DVD2 source to output video configuration #2 at 1080p/60.
> 
> By using 2 different source set ups for the one BR/dvd component you can avoid many of the 1080p/24/60 handshaking and pq problems. You can also tweak the video processing menu in the D2 (holding down #7 on the remote) differently for dvd's and BR's, or send out the audio differently for dvd's or BR's.
> 
> This is the way I skinned the cat, and it works great. Others may have other suggestions with your Sony or Pioneer settings that may help even more. Hope it helps.
> 
> Tom



That's great advice Tom about the two sources and two outputs. I might try that - but I remember Bob P saying that the Anthem should detect a movie format and output it as 60P and not 24P automatically if the source is not 24P. Maybe Bob can comment.


My Sony BR player forces DVD's to be output at 1080p60. Which is frustrating the older gen Sony BR I had let you specify the output for DVDs separate from BR and you could leave 480i content as-is.


----------



## xtrips

Hi all and especially you Bob,


If I am not mistaken you too have an Oppo and had in the past a D2 (BTW i am getting my D2v next January, the first in Israel







).

I would like to have an audio only config in my D2 for the Oppo, something for DTS-audio, DVD-audio, SACD and alike. That way I wouldn't have to lit up my projector.

I tried to set such a config but it didn't work.

I saw handshaking problems on the D2's OSD.

As I said I have a D2 and am running 1.47f as of today.

Any advise?


Thanks


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17743784
> 
> 
> The D3 I mentioned is the one ultimately coming out in the future.



But they haven't announced a D3. We may as well talk about the D7 in that case.....


Lets avoid confusing folks....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/17745805
> 
> 
> But they haven't announced a D3. We may as well talk about the D7 in that case.....
> 
> 
> Lets avoid confusing folks....



I have heard good stuff about the D7


----------



## tstybr

Can panel display and indicator lights be dimmed/turned off by the remote? The manual claims "front panel only" but is an ir code available for use with third party remote like a Harmony One?


----------



## LesPaul

2. DTV via HDMI with all components HDMI:


- Every time I would change input to the DTV receiver, the sound would not work. Even if I switched back to a previously working source, the sound would not work there also now. Powering the DTV receiver off/on worked, but I had to do this every time.


The following has thus far solved the symptom you've indicated:


- "Setup -> Source Setup" and ensuring "Auto Dig" is set to off for all sources.


It is early, but last night, every time I switched sources, the sound was still there.


Hope this helps.


Take Care,

Mike[/quote]


Hi Mike,


Thanks for the suggestion! I made the changes and I will test and let you know if this has solved the problem.


Kind regards,


LesPaul


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tstybr* /forum/post/17746324
> 
> 
> Can panel display and indicator lights be dimmed/turned off by the remote? The manual claims "front panel only" but is an ir code available for use with third party remote like a Harmony One?



Yes. 4 brightness levels available as well as off. Additionally, you can set it up to jump up one level in brightness or jump to max. whenever a remote command is issued. This is nice because it allows you to run with the display off but it will automatically brighten for a brief period (programmable) when you make an adjustment.


----------



## Kensmith48

I could have said D3a,D3b, D3c, and really confused you.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17746991
> 
> 
> I could have said D3a,D3b, D3c, and really confused you.



No matter what you call it, you better get a very large piggy bank to save for it. If the initial rumors are correct, this unit will scale 4000k video. And it will not be cheap! I have heard numbers for the processor and projector to be around $50k.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17746991
> 
> 
> I could have said D3a,D3b, D3c, and really confused you.



I'm not in the slightest confused (not about this anyway!)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17747189
> 
> 
> No matter what you call it, you better get a very large piggy bank to save for it. If the initial rumors are correct, this unit will scale 4000k video. And it will not be cheap! I have heard numbers for the processor and projector to be around $50k.



See! Now look what you started........


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17744545
> 
> 
> That's great advice Tom about the two sources and two outputs. I might try that - but I remember Bob P saying that the Anthem should detect a movie format and output it as 60P and not 24P automatically if the source is not 24P. Maybe Bob can comment.
> 
> 
> My Sony BR player forces DVD's to be output at 1080p60. Which is frustrating the older gen Sony BR I had let you specify the output for DVDs separate from BR and you could leave 480i content as-is.



The D2 will send out whatever resolution it is set to send. Although there is an 'auto' setting for resolution in the D2 video configuration menu, the manual states that 'you may get a better result by selecting the format manually'. If you wish to send out 1080p/60 then you should to set it to that in the video settings menu in the D2. If you have yours set to 'auto' that may be what is causing the handshake problem.

The D2 will recognize whatever resolution it is being sent from your sony, and that can be accessed by repeatedly pushing the 'select' button on the D2 remote. It will also show what resolution is being sent out from the D2 to your pioneer. That will always be what it is set to send out- what video configuration is chosen for that source. If its set to send out 1080p/24 in the D2 setup menu, then that is what it will send to your monitor.

If I send out a 1080p/24 signal to my monitor from a 1080p/60 source it often looks jerky, since it doesn't do a good job negotiating between those cadences. The oppo has the same problem converting dvd's to 1080p/24. The D2v may be able to handle the conversion better, but in my experience the D2 works better sending out a 1080p/60 signal from a 1080p/60, 1080i or 480i source.

I think its preferrable to send out the resolution that works best with your monitor given the source material. The best way I've found to handle that is to set up the 2 different sources from the oppo for BR and dvd's.

Tom


----------



## tngiloy

Before editing the above post I had thought there was no 'auto' setting for resolution. When all else fails, read the manual.Please forgive me if I caused any confusion. Tom


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/17736667
> 
> 
> Hi LesPaul,
> 
> 
> I just received a shipment of HDMI cables yesterday and changed all my components from Component/Optical to HDMI. Have thus far duplicated and suppressed the symptom you reported.
> 
> 
> A summary of the symptoms I've seen with my DirectTV reciever:
> 
> 
> 1. DTV via HDMI with other components conencted Component/Optical:
> 
> 
> - When switching to my DirectTV from a source that was Component/Optical, on occasion the sound would stop working. Switching to any source and back again worked.
> 
> 
> 2. DTV via HDMI with all components HDMI:
> 
> 
> - Every time I would change input to the DTV receiver, the sound would not work. Even if I switched back to a previously working source, the sound would not work there also now. Powering the DTV receiver off/on worked, but I had to do this every time.
> 
> 
> The following has thus far solved the symptom you've indicated:
> 
> 
> - "Setup -> Source Setup" and ensuring "Auto Dig" is set to off for all sources.
> 
> 
> It is early, but last night, every time I switched sources, the sound was still there.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> Take Care,
> 
> Mike




IM not sure if this is related to the problem I have been working on with Anthem or not. On my HTPC using optical and converting to analog to source 2 I get no sound when I change to another source. I have to power on main to get zone 2 working again for my htpc. The setup is exactly the same as I had with my d2 however I did not have to power up main to get sound to work again in zone 2. Currently I believe Anthem is looking into the problem. In the meantime I just set up my zone 2 remote to power up main then when I get sound in zone 2 I just power down main and I am fine until I toggle to another source.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/17747424
> 
> 
> I think its preferrable to send out the resolution that works best with your monitor given the source material. The best way I've found to handle that is to set up the 2 different sources from the oppo for BR and dvd's.
> 
> Tom



Is there a way to setup two inputs say DVD1 and DVD2 labelled as "DVD" and "BluRay" and each with their own output config. Then be able to select these via remote (a Harmony)? If so I could setup "Watch a DVD" and "Watch a Blu-Ray" actions on the harmony.


gb


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17750141
> 
> 
> Is there a way to setup two inputs say DVD1 and DVD2 labelled as "DVD" and "BluRay" and each with their own output config. Then be able to select these via remote (a Harmony)? If so I could setup "Watch a DVD" and "Watch a Blu-Ray" actions on the harmony.
> 
> 
> gb



Yes, that is doable. I have mine setup that way. You set up the D2v/AVM50 with DVD2 named and configured for Bluray, I have DVD3 configured for SACD.


In the Harmony you can set up an activity "Watch Bluray". When setting up the activity have the Harmony send an additional "Input DVD" command to get the Anthem to the DVD2 setting. When exiting the activity have the Harmony send 3 Input DVD commands to cycle it back to DVD1. That way your normal Watch DVD activity will still function correctly and the Watch Bluray command will also work correctly as it will always be starting from the DVD1 position.


----------



## PaulF

Did they update the remote on the D2v? If so why? Is it functional differences or just ergonomics?


BTW, can the D2v remote be used as a whole system universal, including in-room lighting?


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/17750271
> 
> 
> Yes, that is doable. I have mine setup that way. You set up the D2v/AVM50 with DVD2 named and configured for Bluray, I have DVD3 configured for SACD.
> 
> 
> In the Harmony you can set up an activity "Watch Bluray". When setting up the activity have the Harmony send an additional "Input DVD" command to get the Anthem to the DVD2 setting. When exiting the activity have the Harmony send 3 Input DVD commands to cycle it back to DVD1. That way your normal Watch DVD activity will still function correctly and the Watch Bluray command will also work correctly as it will always be starting from the DVD1 position.



There's no direct IR command for calling DVD1 or DVD2?


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17750467
> 
> 
> There's no direct IR command for calling DVD1 or DVD2?



Not that I know of but someone else out there may know something that I don't.


There is only a DVD source selection on the remote and to get to the multiple DVD choices from the front panel you need to press the DVD button multiple times.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/17750603
> 
> 
> Not that I know of but someone else out there may know something that I don't.
> 
> 
> There is only a DVD source selection on the remote and to get to the multiple DVD choices from the front panel you need to press the DVD button multiple times.



There are macro commands that can be programmed into 3rd party remotes. See pg 74 of the current manual.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17750467
> 
> 
> There's no direct IR command for calling DVD1 or DVD2?



There is a direct serial command for everything.


You might want to consider upgrading your remote from the equivalent of Insignia to something a little closer to Anthem quality?


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17750467
> 
> 
> There's no direct IR command for calling DVD1 or DVD2?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17751019
> 
> 
> There are macro commands that can be programmed into 3rd party remotes. See pg 74 of the current manual.



I stand corrected.


----------



## ninja12

I am trying to use the S-Video from my sub to my D2. When I bring up the screen for my sub, I am seeing the same doubles. The screen horizontally splits and shows the same thing on both sides. I thought it was the cable; but, I ruled that out when I used a working S-Video Cable, and I received the same result. So, if someone has a Velodyne Sub and using the S-Video, did you see this problem? If so, what did you do to resolve it? Also, is there a setting in D2 that I need to change in order to use the S-Video from my sub? Your response is much appreciated.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17750141
> 
> 
> Is there a way to setup two inputs say DVD1 and DVD2 labelled as "DVD" and "BluRay" and each with their own output config. Then be able to select these via remote (a Harmony)? If so I could setup "Watch a DVD" and "Watch a Blu-Ray" actions on the harmony.
> 
> 
> gb



Bob answered a similar question a while back. See posts #17684 & #17685 on pg 590 of this thread. It has the usual detailed Bob P. answer.

I wish I were saavy enough to post a link. Sorry.

Tom


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/17751212
> 
> 
> I am trying to use the S-Video from my sub to my D2. When I bring up the screen for my sub, I am seeing the same doubles. The screen horizontally splits and shows the same thing on both sides. I thought it was the cable; but, I ruled that out when I used a working S-Video Cable, and I received the same result. So, if someone has a Velodyne Sub and using the S-Video, did you see this problem? If so, what did you do to resolve it? Also, is there a setting in D2 that I need to change in order to use the S-Video from my sub? Your response is much appreciated.



I figured out the answer to my question. I ran the S-Video from my sub directly to my display, and that solved my problem. I did find in a post, from Bob posted last year, that this is a bug that was not fixed yet. I don't think anyone determined if this was an Anthem problem or a Velodyne problem. Anyway, I am good now.


----------



## Kensmith48

$50,000 for a D3!!! That should just about kill this thread.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17752311
> 
> 
> $50,000 for a D3!!! That should just about kill this thread.



I said $50,000 for a Projector/D3 combination capable of 4k scaling and projection...not just a D3!


----------



## aramb

I just loaded v2.08a into my AVM50v. Previously I was running 2.07g with no problems other than the 7-channel surround not working right.


I loaded 2.08a using Windows 7 with the Keyspan adapter and had no issues with the process.


However, when using my Panasonic DMP-BD80 BluRay player, it is not syncing right with the HDMI. I am seeing a picture, except it has SNOW in it. Also, it keeps un-syncing and re-syncing. I am getting no sound and the display on the AVM50v keeps switching between Dolby 5.1 and Dolby TrueHD. When paused or stopped, I hear faint popping jumping between the various speakers.


It works fine with the Toshiba HD-XA2 HD-DVD and my Motorola DCH6200, although it doesn't seem to sync quite as quickly.


The first question is... can I re-load 2.07g without any hitches, or, will the new video flash loader cause a problem.


Second question is... has anyone else experience this problem with the Panasonic Bluray player, and if so, how do I fix it?


Thanks...


AramB


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17752737
> 
> 
> I just loaded v2.08a into my AVM50v. Previously I was running 2.07g with no problems other than the 7-channel surround not working right.
> 
> 
> I loaded 2.08a using Windows 7 with the Keyspan adapter and had no issues with the process.
> 
> 
> However, when using my Panasonic DMP-BD80 BluRay player, it is not syncing right with the HDMI. I am seeing a picture, except it has SNOW in it. Also, it keeps un-syncing and re-syncing. I am getting no sound and the display on the AVM50v keeps switching between Dolby 5.1 and Dolby TrueHD. When paused or stopped, I hear faint popping jumping between the various speakers.
> 
> 
> It works fine with the Toshiba HD-XA2 HD-DVD and my Motorola DCH6200, although it doesn't seem to sync quite as quickly.
> 
> 
> The first question is... can I re-load 2.07g without any hitches, or, will the new video flash loader cause a problem.
> 
> 
> Second question is... has anyone else experience this problem with the Panasonic Bluray player, and if so, how do I fix it?
> 
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> 
> AramB



The problem you are describing is similar to the problem I reported with 30-bit 1080p/60 input. Apparently the "test" V2.08a firmware has a flaw in the HDMI setup for the HDMI 1-4 inputs. If your Panasonic player is attached to one of the HDMI 1-4 inputs, try moving it to one of the HDMI 5-8 inputs and see if that cures the handshake problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17752425
> 
> 
> I said $50,000 for a Projector/D3 combination capable of 4k scaling and projection...not just a D3!



I suggest we drop discussion of any purported D3. It is all just speculation. There is no reason to believe such a product is coming any time soon.


The rumor about a D3 in development that was posted back in September proved to be without basis.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/17752280
> 
> 
> I figured out the answer to my question. I ran the S-Video from my sub directly to my display, and that solved my problem. I did find in a post, from Bob posted last year, that this is a bug that was not fixed yet. I don't think anyone determined if this was an Anthem problem or a Velodyne problem. Anyway, I am good now.



The problem is two-fold.


The S-video put out by these Velodyne products is flawed. I believe the problem is that they are only generating every other "field" of the 480i analog video.


And the portion of the D2 (and AVM 50) video board which digitizes analog video input is not able to deal with that. This is apparently a hardware limitation. This problem with the Velodyne S-video has existed from the beginning with the D2 (and AVM 50).


The workaround, as you discovered, is to "pass through" the Velodyne S-video input to the D2's S-video output, unprocessed, and select a separate S-video input on your display when you need to view that.


----------------------------------------------


One of the improvements in the new video board in the D2v and AVM 50v is that it is able to digitize this Velodyne S-video analog video input without problems. So folks with a D2v or AVM 50v can convert that Velodyne S-video input to HDMI output, for example, just as with other video inputs.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17750467
> 
> 
> There's no direct IR command for calling DVD1 or DVD2?



See Appendix A of the Manual. There you will find 3-key combos to directly select any of the source inputs. I have those in my Harmony 880 configuration for example.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/17750377
> 
> 
> Did they update the remote on the D2v? If so why? Is it functional differences or just ergonomics?
> 
> 
> BTW, can the D2v remote be used as a whole system universal, including in-room lighting?



Anthem's old remote -- dating back to the D1 if not earlier -- was contracted from a third party, and that model apparently went out of production. So they contracted for a new remote.


There are some changes in layout -- for example the main On/Off buttons for the processor are now adjacent, and color buttons have been added for use with Blu-Ray players -- but the functionality is essentially unchanged.


The built in code sets for controlling third party products were also updated.


The D2v remote has limited functionality for controlling other products -- basically built-in code sets and some ability to make simple changes. For anything fancy you would most likely be much happier using one of the many programmable remote products out there. For example, I use a Harmony 880.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17750141
> 
> 
> Is there a way to setup two inputs say DVD1 and DVD2 labelled as "DVD" and "BluRay" and each with their own output config. Then be able to select these via remote (a Harmony)? If so I could setup "Watch a DVD" and "Watch a Blu-Ray" actions on the harmony.
> 
> 
> gb



Yes, this is easy to do, as the other responders stated.


Another reason you might want to have several Source definitions all using the same physical input device is if you want to have different Video Source Adjust menu settings for different uses with that device.


For example, I have a separate TV definition for my Comcast HD/DVR which forces a 16:9 aspect ratio on the input cropping. I use this if I tune to an SDTV channel that happens to be showing a wide-screen movie letterboxed in the SD frame.


See the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling post links collected in the first post of this thread for discussion.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/17744954
> 
> 
> Hi all and especially you Bob,
> 
> 
> If I am not mistaken you too have an Oppo and had in the past a D2 (BTW i am getting my D2v next January, the first in Israel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> I would like to have an audio only config in my D2 for the Oppo, something for DTS-audio, DVD-audio, SACD and alike. That way I wouldn't have to lit up my projector.
> 
> I tried to set such a config but it didn't work.
> 
> I saw handshaking problems on the D2's OSD.
> 
> As I said I have a D2 and am running 1.47f as of today.
> 
> Any advise?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I no longer have an original D2, so I don't know how the "test" V1.47f firmware handles this, but with the "official" V1.33 firmware the trick for using HDMI audio input into the D2 with the display powered off is that the display must be turned off BEFORE you select that input.


If you turn off the display while that input is selected, the audio handshake will fail. The workaround is to switch to any other input and back while leaving the display off.


When I still had a D2, before the Oppo was publicly released, this worked with the OPPO as well, using the non-public beta Oppo firmware of that time of course. That was with the D2 V1.33 firmware.


----------------------------------------


The D2v has no such restriction. You can turn off the display either before or after you select the input and, after a brief pause for a new HDMI handshake, the HDMI audio input will work just fine.


Note that there are some displays out there which do peculiar things on their HDMI inputs when they are turned "off". There are undoubtedly some displays out there which present themselves to the Anthem as "on" even though they can't actually handle a real, copy protection handshake. Such displays aren't going to work well doing what you are trying to do. I don't know if your display might be like that. The easiest way to check is to simply disconnect the HDMI to the display and then see if your HDMI Audio input works the way you want it to.


But again, with a D2, try the trick I described above first. Turn off the display BEFORE selecting that HDMI Audio input in the D2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17741815
> 
> 
> I just upgraded my display to a pioneer 101FD elite which I'm quite happy about.
> 
> 
> I've created a second video output config used by the blu-ray input. That output is configured for 1080P24, 4:4:4 data format. Film mode is set to Auto and Frame lock is set to auto.
> 
> 
> it's my understanding that when playing a DVD (not 24P) on my blu-ray player (A sony 550) that the D2 will automatically detect that the input is film-based 60i content and output it as 60P content. When a Blu-ray is playing, the anthem should automatically detect the input as 24P and output it as 24P.
> 
> 
> When I play blu-rays, this seems to work ok. When I put DVD's in, I get no end to handshaking. Sometimes I get pictures with obvious inverse telecine problems and sometimes the picture is fine. Looking at the OSD doesn't help as the information panel is pretty buggy - it never shows the correct output information or film being detected.
> 
> 
> Do I have things setup properly? This is on a D2 with 1.33 SW.



Set up the way you describe, what happens when you play a film-based SD-DVD (480i/60 input) is that the D2 detects it is film-based and attempts to convert it to 1080p/24. I.e., it attempts to extract the original /24 film stream from that 480i/60 input, and then scale that to 1080p/24.


But the video processor in the D2 can not properly convert 480i/60 or 1080i/60 film-based video to 1080p/24 output. So you get the problems you describe.


Use a 1080p/60 Video Output configuration when playing SD-DVDs.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/17739313
> 
> 
> Need help analyzing my ARC file!
> 
> 
> Hi, I just completed the latest updates to the F/W on my D2/A5 and re-ran ARC. I am now starting to move my speakers around to hopefully improve the sound and would appreciate any advice one could gather from the attached ARC file.
> 
> 
> My 5.0 speakers are Anthony Gallo 3.1 Reference with Sub, a MJ Acoustics Reference 200. Surrounds are on the manufacturers stands which are too low and due to room size, are behind the main listening/viewing chairs. I am going to have these raised with custom stand extensions.
> 
> 
> Center is mounted on the wall underneath the TV.
> 
> 
> Inputs are the Rogers Cable PVR fed via Component, (minimize hand shaking issues), Denon 3800 for BD, (HDMI) and Arcan DV137 for SACD, (just went Analogue to test, was HDMI).
> 
> 
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



I'm sorry, I don't have time right now to help with ARC questions like this here in the thread (these things take longer to analyze than I suspect most people realize). But hang in there. You may get some other responses.


Some folks might find it easier to respond if you post screen captures of your ARC charts so they can just view them in their browser here.


The "zip" file you attached unzips into a Windows executable program (a .exe file), so I'm not sure what you were trying to give us there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17738799
> 
> 
> I'd like to ask this question one more time since no one has really answered it.
> 
> Anyone on this thread who has had both the D2 and D2v, what are the differences in Features, Sound and Video quality between the D2 and D2v?
> 
> Thank you!



It sounds better, it looks better, and it has more connectivity. What's not to like? And Dolby Volume is due out "real soon now".


You want a technical basis? The D2v video path is 36-bit end to end. Analog video support is also improved. The D2v supports HDMI audio input up to 7.1 channels at up to 192KHz. HDMI Bitstream input for the new, lossless formats is also supported. Several restrictions in audio processing in the D2 are eliminated in the D2v due to the extra power of its new DSP chips.

--Bob


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17753907
> 
> 
> Set up the way you describe, what happens when you play a film-based SD-DVD (480i/60 input) is that the D2 detects it is film-based and attempts to convert it to 1080p/24. I.e., it attempts to extract the original /24 film stream from that 480i/60 input, and then scale that to 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> But the video processor in the D2 can not properly convert 480i/60 or 1080i/60 film-based video to 1080p/24 output. So you get the problems you describe.
> 
> 
> Use a 1080p/60 Video Output configuration when playing SD-DVDs.
> 
> --Bob



thanks Bob, from your answer, I'm I to assume that the D2v does not have this limitation?


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17753824
> 
> 
> The problem you are describing is similar to the problem I reported with 30-bit 1080p/60 input. Apparently the "test" V2.08a firmware has a flaw in the HDMI setup for the HDMI 1-4 inputs. If your Panasonic player is attached to one of the HDMI 1-4 inputs, try moving it to one of the HDMI 5-8 inputs and see if that cures the handshake problem.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I did switch the BD80 to input #7 with identical results. So, back to my first question... is it safe for me to roll back to version 2.07g, or, am I stuck.


Aram


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17754495
> 
> 
> Bob, I did switch the BD80 to input #7 with identical results. So, back to my first question... is it safe for me to roll back to version 2.07g, or, am I stuck.
> 
> 
> Aram



You can roll back. Since you were on V2.07g already, your Windows PC and serial setup are known to be good for installs using the older firmware installer.


Please do get the details on your problems with the Panasonic to Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17754342
> 
> 
> thanks Bob, from your answer, I'm I to assume that the D2v does not have this limitation?



The hardware limitation doesn't exist in the D2v.


The conversion from 480i/60 or 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 for film based content is still being adjusted in the D2v firmware. Conversion from 1080i/60 is believed to work now, but conversion from 480i/60 still needs further adjustment in the firmware.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

Last night I used my Pioneer Laser Disc Player. This is the only S-Video input I use. I output its' 480i S-Video input to HDMI 1080p/60. When I viewed the status display, I had the normal status on the screen and also a duplicate of it in a lower resolution, I'm guessing 480i, in the background. I checked my source settings and everything looks correct. Can anyone duplicate this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17756900
> 
> 
> Last night I used my Pioneer Laser Disc Player. This is the only S-Video input I use. I output its' 480i S-Video input to HDMI 1080p/60. When I viewed the status display, I had the normal status on the screen and also a duplicate of it in a lower resolution, I'm guessing 480i, in the background. I checked my source settings and everything looks correct. Can anyone duplicate this?



What status display are you talking about? The sort of thing that comes up when you press the Select button?

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17756936
> 
> 
> What status display are you talking about? The sort of thing that comes up when you press the Select button?
> 
> --Bob



Yes, date, time, Input, Serial number.


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17754537
> 
> 
> You can roll back. Since you were on V2.07g already, your Windows PC and serial setup are known to be good for installs using the older firmware installer.
> 
> 
> Please do get the details on your problems with the Panasonic to Anthem tech support.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. I rolled back to 2.07g and everything is working without a hitch (except the 7.1 issue).


Incidentally, do you think if I had loaded 2.08 instead of 2.08a I would have had the same problem? I may give this a try if I feel like tempting fate this weekend.


Aram


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17757027
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob. I rolled back to 2.07g and everything is working without a hitch (except the 7.1 issue).
> 
> 
> Incidentally, do you think if I had loaded 2.08 instead of 2.08a I would have had the same problem? I may give this a try if I feel like tempting fate this weekend.
> 
> 
> Aram



If the problem is due to the most recent HDMI changes they made in V2.08a then V2.08 should be good for you. I don't think you'll have any problem with the install given that you can install V2.07g without problems.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17757000
> 
> 
> Yes, date, time, Input, Serial number.



I have two S-video sources and I just tried both of them. I spotted no such problem.


There are two different character generators for the HD and S-V status displays: An HD text version and an SD version. It sounds like you are saying you are getting both of them, which of course isn't supposed to happen.


Check the different choices in Setup > Display & Timeout > Main OS Out to see if they make a difference. It is possible this value is corrupted in your settings, so changing it may fix it. [My normal setting for this is the HD Only setting. I tried the other settings and didn't get anything strange with them either.]


If not, send an email to Anthem tech support with the details.

--Bob


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17757234
> 
> 
> If the problem is due to the most recent HDMI changes they made in V2.08a then V2.08 should be good for you. I don't think you'll have any problem with the install given that you can install V2.07g without problems.
> 
> --Bob



Okay, I may give 2.08 a try. However, right now my BluRay player just took a dump. Tried upgrading the firmware and it didn't like it. When is the Anthem BluRay player going to be released?


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17752737
> 
> 
> I just loaded v2.08a into my AVM50v. Previously I was running 2.07g with no problems other than the 7-channel surround not working right.
> 
> 
> I loaded 2.08a using Windows 7 with the Keyspan adapter and had no issues with the process.
> 
> 
> However, when using my Panasonic DMP-BD80 BluRay player, it is not syncing right with the HDMI. I am seeing a picture, except it has SNOW in it. Also, it keeps un-syncing and re-syncing. I am getting no sound and the display on the AVM50v keeps switching between Dolby 5.1 and Dolby TrueHD. When paused or stopped, I hear faint popping jumping between the various speakers.
> 
> 
> It works fine with the Toshiba HD-XA2 HD-DVD and my Motorola DCH6200, although it doesn't seem to sync quite as quickly.
> 
> 
> The first question is... can I re-load 2.07g without any hitches, or, will the new video flash loader cause a problem.
> 
> 
> Second question is... has anyone else experience this problem with the Panasonic Bluray player, and if so, how do I fix it?
> 
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> 
> AramB



Greetings,


I just tried the Panasonic DMP-BD55 which is built on the same video platform as the BD80 and it works fine with 2.08a on my AVM50v.



Regards,


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17757425
> 
> 
> Okay, I may give 2.08 a try. However, right now my BluRay player just took a dump. Tried upgrading the firmware and it didn't like it. When is the Anthem BluRay player going to be released?




I haven't seen word on the release date, but there is no question as to how good the Oppo BDP-83 stacks up against the competition, and for the price its pretty much a no brainer....


I have read there was even some discussion that Anthem may even do a rebadge on that unit... speculation of coarse... but maybe some insider info...


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17753840
> 
> 
> The problem is two-fold.
> 
> 
> The S-video put out by these Velodyne products is flawed. I believe the problem is that they are only generating every other "field" of the 480i analog video.
> 
> 
> And the portion of the D2 (and AVM 50) video board which digitizes analog video input is not able to deal with that. This is apparently a hardware limitation. This problem with the Velodyne S-video has existed from the beginning with the D2 (and AVM 50).
> 
> 
> The workaround, as you discovered, is to "pass through" the Velodyne S-video input to the D2's S-video output, unprocessed, and select a separate S-video input on your display when you need to view that.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> One of the improvements in the new video board in the D2v and AVM 50v is that it is able to digitize this Velodyne S-video analog video input without problems. So folks with a D2v or AVM 50v can convert that Velodyne S-video input to HDMI output, for example, just as with other video inputs.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for responding Bob.


----------



## Milt99

Ok, here's a weird one.

Turn on my PJ.

Turn on the PS3.

I typically set the D2 to another source like cd when I power up the PJ as it seems like the D2 syncs better if the video source is on for a bit before selecting it.

Switch the D2 to PS3. Nothing on the screen including the OSD at the bottom.

Turn on the OTA tuner. Switch to that. Again nothing.

Power off the PJ. Connect the HDMI out to the PS3 and power up the PJ.

All is normal.

Power down the PJ and the D2 and put the HDMI cables back.

Power on the D2, power on the PJ, switch to the PS3 all workee again.

I've never had a glitch like this before. Cooling isn't an issue. I smelled nothing bad.

I leave the D2 and my power amps powered on all the time.

I guess I don't expect any definitive answers but it makes me feel uneasy.

My D2 has the red vid board.

It seems if something went bad on the vid board it would be gone for good.

Anyone experience anything like this?


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17757839
> 
> 
> I haven't seen word on the release date, but there is no question as to how good the Oppo BDP-83 stacks up against the competition, and for the price its pretty much a no brainer....
> 
> 
> I have read there was even some discussion that Anthem may even do a rebadge on that unit... speculation of coarse... but maybe some insider info...



My hope with the Anthem BluRay player is that it would be completely plug-n-play with the AVM50v/D2v. No messing around with firmware here and there to get things playing together nicely.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17758706
> 
> 
> Ok, here's a weird one.
> 
> Turn on my PJ.
> 
> Turn on the PS3.
> 
> I typically set the D2 to another source like cd when I power up the PJ as it seems like the D2 syncs better if the video source is on for a bit before selecting it.
> 
> Switch the D2 to PS3. Nothing on the screen including the OSD at the bottom.
> 
> Turn on the OTA tuner. Switch to that. Again nothing.
> 
> Power off the PJ. Connect the HDMI out to the PS3 and power up the PJ.
> 
> All is normal.
> 
> Power down the PJ and the D2 and put the HDMI cables back.
> 
> Power on the D2, power on the PJ, switch to the PS3 all workee again.
> 
> I've never had a glitch like this before. Cooling isn't an issue. I smelled nothing bad.
> 
> I leave the D2 and my power amps powered on all the time.
> 
> I guess I don't expect any definitive answers but it makes me feel uneasy.
> 
> My D2 has the red vid board.
> 
> It seems if something went bad on the vid board it would be gone for good.
> 
> Anyone experience anything like this?



It could be any number of things, but the simplest explanation for what you describe is that the HDMI cable to the projector shifted a little bit loose due to cable weight or vibration or whatever and so you lost the signal to the projector.


When you swapped the cables in and out that fixed that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17758762
> 
> 
> My hope with the Anthem BluRay player is that it would be completely plug-n-play with the AVM50v/D2v. No messing around with firmware here and there to get things playing together nicely.



Keep in mind that ANY Blu-Ray player is going to need regular firmware updates anyway because the tools the studios are using to author the discs are still evolving.

--Bob


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17758777
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that ANY Blu-Ray player is going to need regular firmware updates anyway because the tools the studios are using to author the discs are still evolving.
> 
> --Bob



That's reasonable to expect, but at least I hopefully wouldn't have to worry about the handshaking issues.


----------



## Warpdrv

I have yet to experience any Handshake issues, the Oppo plays very nicely with the D2v and my Panasonic Plasma at the end of the chain... either scaling material up to 1080p or straight through with no processing involved at all...


What issues with handshake are you speaking of.... ?


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17758823
> 
> 
> I have yet to experience any Handshake issues, the Oppo plays very nicely with the D2v and my Panasonic Plasma at the end of the chain... either scaling material up to 1080p or straight through with no processing involved at all...
> 
> 
> What issues with handshake are you speaking of.... ?



That's good to know. If I can't get the handshaking issues resolved with the Panny BD80 with the new Anthem firmware, I might get an Oppo and try it out.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17758857
> 
> 
> That's good to know. If I can't get the handshaking issues resolved with the Panny BD80 with the new Anthem firmware, I might get an Oppo and try it out.



I have used the "drhankz manuever" for a long time which is pj on, D2v next and source last. This resolved my handshake issues. Now with the last few firmware releases I have tried diff sequences and everyone works fine. I have an oppo BD-83 with the latest firmware version and my D2v has 2.08a.

John


----------



## jayray

Bob,

I have noticed lip sync issues with my oppo when I pause for a minute or more and then start. If I pause again for a second or two it corrects. Do you notice this with your setup?

thanks,

John


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17759069
> 
> 
> I have used the "drhankz manuever" for a long time which is pj on, D2v next and source last. This resolved my handshake issues. Now with the last few firmware releases I have tried diff sequences and everyone works fine. I have an oppo BD-83 with the latest firmware version and my D2v has 2.08a.
> 
> John



Jayray - I have used your technique ever since you posted it (it is programmed into the macros on my remote) and it has worked admirably ever since. That is, until I updated to 2.08a.


Aram


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17758765
> 
> 
> It could be any number of things, but the simplest explanation for what you describe is that the HDMI cable to the projector shifted a little bit loose due to cable weight or vibration or whatever and so you lost the signal to the projector.
> 
> 
> When you swapped the cables in and out that fixed that.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob.

Sounds as plausible as anything I can think of, although I did check the connections as well.

Nothing should be much of a surprise when it comes to hdmi.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17759102
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I have noticed lip sync issues with my oppo when I pause for a minute or more and then start. If I pause again for a second or two it corrects. Do you notice this with your setup?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



Nope. Never. I haven't specifically tested long pauses, but I do them from time to time and have never noticed a lip-sync problem for that or for any other reason since the product first shipped to the public. I test lip-sync with every firmware release.

--Bob


----------



## CharlieU

I wanted to dig this one up again since I was one of those people.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17607862
> 
> 
> Another thought for folks who believe they are hearing a problem with ARC processing of treble:
> 
> 
> Lot of helpful stuff deleted for clarity.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> It will also be interesting to discover if folks who think ARC is having problems correcting high frequencies are also folks where ARC needs to do a substantial amount of correction in bass. If so, one thing we might be hearing here is ARC running out of resources to do both even though the problem is not showing up as residual error wobbles in the charts when Max EQ Frequency is raised.
> 
> --bob



The above got me thinking and motivated me to get off my lazy butt to do some things I knew could improve the bass response of my system. I put back the second sub and SVS AS-EQ1 that I pulled out when I put in the AVM-50v. I made some changes in the positioning of my bass traps and acoustic panels, put port plugs into a couple of speakers, and added some vibration isolation to my surrounds and center. Now I'm able to move my Max EQ Freq from 5Khz all the way to 20Khz without bringing on any harshness. Bob, in my case, your theory proved correct.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU* /forum/post/17760938
> 
> 
> I wanted to dig this one up again since I was one of those people.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The above got me thinking and motivated me to get off my lazy butt to do some things I knew could improve the bass response of my system. I put back the second sub and SVS AS-EQ1 that I pulled out when I put in the AVM-50v. I made some changes in the positioning of my bass traps and acoustic panels, put port plugs into a couple of speakers, and added some vibration isolation to my surrounds and center. Now I'm able to move my Max EQ Freq from 5Khz all the way to 20Khz without bringing on any harshness. Bob, in my case, your theory proved correct.



Very interesting! I suspect what some people are hearing as "harshness" when they raise Max EQ Frequency might have nothing to do with high frequencies per se, but rather to do with more residual error in the mid-range because ARC is being asked to divert resources to the high frequencies.


If you have before and after ARC charts you can post, they would be worth a look.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17757252
> 
> 
> I have two S-video sources and I just tried both of them. I spotted no such problem.
> 
> 
> There are two different character generators for the HD and S-V status displays: An HD text version and an SD version. It sounds like you are saying you are getting both of them, which of course isn't supposed to happen.
> 
> 
> Check the different choices in Setup > Display & Timeout > Main OS Out to see if they make a difference. It is possible this value is corrupted in your settings, so changing it may fix it. [My normal setting for this is the HD Only setting. I tried the other settings and didn't get anything strange with them either.]
> 
> 
> If not, send an email to Anthem tech support with the details.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you.


I switched the preference to HD only and the SD went away. I'll try switching back today to see if it comes back.


----------



## Steven9x7

Hi there,i'have a Kuro KRP600M attacched to Anthem D2 but the videoprocessing don't work well i think,the quality pictures is the same with or without the processor.......it's possible? what configuration for the Kuro??

Many thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steven9x7* /forum/post/17762436
> 
> 
> Hi there,i'have a Kuro KRP600M attacched to Anthem D2 but the videoprocessing don't work well i think,the quality pictures is the same with or without the processor.......it's possible? what configuration for the Kuro??
> 
> Many thanks



Getting the video levels (Blacks/Whites/Color/Sharpness) properly calibrated is the most important factor here.


Check out the "Video Calibration for Non-ISF Techs" post link in the collection of post links in the first post of this thread for the basics.


Perhaps someone who has that model of Kuro will chime in with suggestions for specific settings in the Kuro.


What are you seeing about the video that you don't like?

--Bob


----------



## Steven9x7

I have a KRP600M ISF calibrated but i think that is not possible mapping 1:1 and passing the Pioneer's front end with the D2.

I dont see any difference in SD upscaling or in the Hd picture quality,sincerely

But i want try with your setting if is possible,many thanks


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17754537
> 
> 
> You can roll back. Since you were on V2.07g already, your Windows PC and serial setup are known to be good for installs using the older firmware installer.
> 
> 
> Please do get the details on your problems with the Panasonic to Anthem tech support.
> 
> --Bob



I talked with Nick regarding my issues today. He suggested I that I reload 2.08a and try it with 720p and 1080i settings on the BD80. I did that and it worked fine. So for now, I will live with 720p (same as the PJ). He indicated they are using higher bandwidth settings with 2.08a, so perhaps it is even cable related?


Aram


----------



## aramb

So, my issue was cable-related due to the increasing of the bandwidth of signals in ver 2.08a. Here is a copy of Nick's comments to me which may be of interest to others.

_The fix would be a new cable between the player and the AVM 50v, preferably one classified as Category 2 or HDMI v1.3 Certified. This represents 225 MHz capability. If the image has 60 frames per second the bandwidth requirements are:


75 MHz - 1080i and 720p

150 MHz - 1080p 8-bit (aka 24-bit*)

225 MHz - 1080p 12-bit (aka 36-bit* or Deep Color)


*the marketing figures are the triple of the real ones, as if a R, G, or B channel had a purpose on its own


The 1080p60 12-bit capability was added to your system by the new software and it's going to stay. The cable doesn't have to be expensive - offerings from www.monoprice.com and www.bluejeanscable.com are just two examples that work._


Hope this helps others that may have similar issues.


Aram


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17765439
> 
> 
> So, my issue was cable-related due to the increasing of the bandwidth of signals in ver 2.08a. Here is a copy of Nick's comments to me which may be of interest to others.
> 
> _The fix would be a new cable between the player and the AVM 50v, preferably one classified as Category 2 or HDMI v1.3 Certified. This represents 225 MHz capability. If the image has 60 frames per second the bandwidth requirements are:
> 
> 
> 75 MHz - 1080i and 720p
> 
> 150 MHz - 1080p 8-bit (aka 24-bit*)
> 
> 225 MHz - 1080p 12-bit (aka 36-bit* or Deep Color)
> 
> 
> *the marketing figures are the triple of the real ones, as if a R, G, or B channel had a purpose on its own
> 
> 
> The 1080p60 12-bit capability was added to your system by the new software and it's going to stay. The cable doesn't have to be expensive - offerings from www.monoprice.com and www.bluejeanscable.com are just two examples that work._
> 
> 
> Hope this helps others that may have similar issues.
> 
> 
> Aram



Great post Aram! I wasn't aware that v2.08a added deep color support which is good indeed. I'm still at the production release v2.08 after my 50v was bricked when I attempted several times to upgrade its FW. I had to ship it back to Anthem for a fix. Now, I'm scared a bit to uplaod version 2.08a, lest I repeat the same error again. But its good to know a worthewhile improvement has been made.




Bob:


I'm wondering if this new version has improved the PQ of BD players(such as Oppo) and displays with deep color support. Would this eliminate the color banding problems I often see in HD programs from cable broadcasts and some BD movies?


----------



## Larry Lang

I have an Anthem D2V in my home theater. My speakers are Def Tech 2002, 2002 TL and Def Tech 2500 center. I use the balanced outputs to my Krell TAS. What is the best way to wire the REL B1 and run ARC? REL is a bit different in that they suggest wiring one lead to the front left, one to the front right and then the ground to the Anthem. Their design is such they want to match the timber (?) of the REL to the fronts. If that is correct (and let me know if you disagree) should I run ARC before or after I connect the REL. Thanks for your feedback.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Larry Lang* /forum/post/17769247
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem D2V in my home theater. My speakers are Def Tech 2002, 2002 TL and Def Tech 2500 center. I use the balanced outputs to my Krell TAS. What is the best way to wire the REL B1 and run ARC? REL is a bit different in that they suggest wiring one lead to the front left, one to the front right and then the ground to the Anthem. Their design is such they want to match the timber (?) of the REL to the fronts. If that is correct (and let me know if you disagree) should I run ARC before or after I connect the REL. Thanks for your feedback.



I do know that ARC does a very good job of matching timber. I would let ARC hear all of your speakers and see what the charts look like. Then post your results and let the guys on this thread take a peak. I'm sure Bob will have some suggestions.

John


----------



## Texas steve

Here Nick is addressing the 50V regarding increased deep color support. Is this true of the D2v as well or has it always had it?











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17766249
> 
> 
> Great post Aram! I wasn't aware that v2.08a added deep color support which is good indeed. I'm still at the production release v2.08 after my 50v was bricked when I attempted several times to upgrade its FW. I had to ship it back to Anthem for a fix. Now, I'm scared a bit to uplaod version 2.08a, lest I repeat the same error again. But its good to know a worthewhile improvement has been made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if this new version has improved the PQ of BD players(such as Oppo) and displays with deep color support. Would this eliminate the color banding problems I often see in HD programs from cable broadcasts and some BD movies?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17775000
> 
> 
> Here Nick is addressing the 50V regarding increased deep color support. Is this true of the D2v as well or has it always had it?



2.08a is D2v only.


----------



## rosewood1

I am having problems setting up an AVM-40 as I had hoped.


My goal was to use the preamp to receive analog audio from a high end DAC [Berkeley Audio Alpha DAC]. So I feed my sources into the DAC, and then into the Anthem via the balanced AES inputs.


However, I can only get 2 channels via this analog direct input. I have set up 4 mains, center, 2 rear and a sub output coming out of the Anthem XLR outputs to a 7 channel amp [Wyred4Sound Mini MC]. The two extra mains come out from center 2 and sub 2.


Is there a way to get more than 2 channels to play from the Anthem using only the balanced inputs?


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17766249
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if this new version has improved the PQ of BD players(such as Oppo) and displays with deep color support. Would this eliminate the color banding problems I often see in HD programs from cable broadcasts and some BD movies?



There is no source material with >8bit color space. So no, you won't see a difference. And the banding in TV shows is largely due to cable companies compressing the signal.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17761536
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> I switched the preference to HD only and the SD went away. I'll try switching back today to see if it comes back.



I switched the preference back to SD + Hd and I got back both the SD and HD status (time , date, Input, Serial Number) info on the screen when viewing a S-Video source.


I will make Anthem aware.


----------



## tngiloy

I know alot of you use the oppo BDP-83 BR player. There is new public beta firmware released 12/22/09, BDP-83-48-1218B. Its available on the Oppo BDP-83 webpage.


I'm not sure if any of the improvements are Anthem specific, but some of the options with subtitles and OSD positioning sound interesting.


I bet Bob will be (is now) testing it out and will let us know about it soon.

Tom


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Larry Lang* /forum/post/17769247
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem D2V in my home theater. My speakers are Def Tech 2002, 2002 TL and Def Tech 2500 center. I use the balanced outputs to my Krell TAS. What is the best way to wire the REL B1 and run ARC? REL is a bit different in that they suggest wiring one lead to the front left, one to the front right and then the ground to the Anthem. Their design is such they want to match the timber (?) of the REL to the fronts. If that is correct (and let me know if you disagree) should I run ARC before or after I connect the REL. Thanks for your feedback.




I am using its little brother the Rel B2. The direct connection done with the included wires to the Front speakers is a good thing when you use it in a pure stereo setup.


To properly use this sub in a 5.1 and/or 7.1 setup you should not use the direct connection at all.


Instead you want to bypass filters and let the Anthem and its ARC do the cutoff optimization. For this you need to use the Low Level Effect Input to be used ideally using a balanced cable between the D2v and the Low level balance input. You need to ensure this inputs is activated and the sub filter bypassed (mode selector should be either 2 or 4). You need to ensure that the sub is set to its maximum Frequency cutoff by putting the sub cutoff frequency to its D-6 selection.


All this will set the sub in such a way that it will be the task of the ARC to select the frequency cutoff based its measurement in the room and targets you will set in ARC.


I also set the low level volume to 12oclock position. This is normally loud enough and easy to put back at the same position if some play with it.


Let me know the end results I am curious to know the improvement you will get.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17775529
> 
> 
> ... wires to the Front speakers is a good thing when you use it in a pure stereo setup. ...



I have my subs (Martin Logan Descents) integrated into my mains (Magnepan 3.6's) using and active XO to control the points and slopes of both the mains low rolloff and the sub's top end.


Is ARC smart enough to use its room correction software on these coupled "LARGE" speakers when it listens to the front left and right to treat them as a single left and rights? One would think the LFE would go to the LARGE speakers if no subs are configured. I am looking for better music coupling than I am for crash/boom/bang.


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rosewood1* /forum/post/17775186
> 
> 
> I am having problems setting up an AVM-40 as I had hoped.
> 
> 
> My goal was to use the preamp to receive analog audio from a high end DAC [Berkeley Audio Alpha DAC]. So I feed my sources into the DAC, and then into the Anthem via the balanced AES inputs.
> 
> 
> However, I can only get 2 channels via this analog direct input. I have set up 4 mains, center, 2 rear and a sub output coming out of the Anthem XLR outputs to a 7 channel amp [Wyred4Sound Mini MC]. The two extra mains come out from center 2 and sub 2.
> 
> 
> Is there a way to get more than 2 channels to play from the Anthem using only the balanced inputs?



I think that you are confused here. Looking at the picture on their website.

The balanced connector mark AES is the DAC input, this is where you plug in your CD/DVD output.

Then you plug the other 2 balanced connector with marking LEFT and RIGHT to the 2-CH IN balanced of your AVM (I don't have an AVM-40 so I don't know if it is labeled like that).


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Larry Lang* /forum/post/17769247
> 
> 
> ...match the *timber* (?) of the REL...



They do use beautiful wood, yes......









*Timbre* ;

Etymology: French, from Middle French, bell struck by a hammer, from Old French, drum, from Middle Greek tymbanon kettledrum, from Greek tympanon


the quality given to a sound by its overtones: as a : the resonance by which the ear recognizes and identifies a voiced speech sound b : the quality of tone distinctive of a particular singing voice or musical instrument


----------



## rosewood1



Then you plug the other 2 balanced connector with marking LEFT and RIGHT to the 2-CH IN balanced of your AVM (I don't have an AVM-40 so I don't know if it is labeled like that).>


It is set up DAC xlr out two channels to AVM xlr in balanced 2 channel. You cannot input to the digital AES input, as the DAC is outputting analog.


The question is again: is there a setting within the AVM to make the other channels active even though I am inputting only with 2 channel analog?


The attachment is the back panel [avm 30- no different than the 40 except for hdmi].


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob and others.

I recently replaced my Earthquake amp with Anthem P5. Should I redo my ARC or what I have is good to go?

Thanks,


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17776716
> 
> 
> Hello Bob and others.
> 
> I recently replaced my Earthquake amp with Anthem P5. Should I redo my ARC or what I have is good to go?
> 
> Thanks,



You need to re-ARC, no question. you just changed a significant component in your system.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/17776769
> 
> 
> You need to re-ARC, no question. you just changed a significant component in your system.



Thanks Spiderv6.

I appreciate it.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17776178
> 
> 
> I have my subs (Martin Logan Descents) integrated into my mains (Magnepan 3.6's) using and active XO to control the points and slopes of both the mains low rolloff and the sub's top end.
> 
> 
> Is ARC smart enough to use its room correction software on these coupled "LARGE" speakers when it listens to the front left and right to treat them as a single left and rights? One would think the LFE would go to the LARGE speakers if no subs are configured. I am looking for better music coupling than I am for crash/boom/bang.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim



Hey Tim, I personally would suggest that you run your Subs as Subs out of the LFE channel and not have them coupled as parts of your mains, a proper xover setup should have your mains blending with your subs very smoothly. ARC will also aid in the EQing of your Freq response throughout the handover. I have never attempted to integrate as you are suggesting here.


1 thing I will mention is that most people don't take measurements of the room checking integration of your subs xover point in relation to your room. Every room is different, and although your mains play low, that doesn't mean you need to have them running full range to achieve proper integration or your subs in your system.


I have a great deal of power in my 4 subs in my room but that doesn't mean that I want BOOM/BANG.


Yesterday - a good friend of mine and I had taken a good deal of time to measure my room and find the proper set of crossovers for each sub, to be certain that there are not major room modes that produce dips / peaks at the crossover points chosen, which will obviously make for a much cleaner handoff from mains to sub for a seemless integration.


If your familiar with REW, IMO you should do setup and measure before running ARC, adjusting phase and xover until things look really good, and then let ARC make its run so it has less processing to do... You really need to let your room decide by its response with different settings what the best Xover should be. You will see the problem areas with trial and error.


Here is what we came up with in my 8200 cu ft room open to everywhere with 4 subs, all in different locations and distances. It was a painstaking procedure to set phase, xover, delay, and EQ each individually measuring between every change and adjustment until we got it to this, This is a natural response with ARC off and before running and implementing a new sweep with ARC and uploading.










I will leave the rest of those peaks and valleys for ARC to handle, as you can see ARC will have very little work to do in my room and sub integration is perfect







Before this my setup had a huge mid bass rise of 15db, which sounded very boomy. I did not care for that. Music sounds fantastic now.. Now to Run ARC...


----------



## thestewman

Originally Posted by rosewood1

I am having problems setting up an AVM-40 as I had hoped.


My goal was to use the preamp to receive analog audio from a high end DAC [Berkeley Audio Alpha DAC]. So I feed my sources into the DAC, and then into the Anthem via the balanced AES inputs.


However, I can only get 2 channels via this analog direct input. I have set up 4 mains, center, 2 rear and a sub output coming out of the Anthem XLR outputs to a 7 channel amp [Wyred4Sound Mini MC]. The two extra mains come out from center 2 and sub 2.


Is there a way to get more than 2 channels to play from the Anthem using only the balanced inputs?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/17776207
> 
> 
> I think that you are confused here. Looking at the picture on their website.
> 
> The balanced connector mark AES is the DAC input, this is where you plug in your CD/DVD output.
> 
> Then you plug the other 2 balanced connector with marking LEFT and RIGHT to the 2-CH IN balanced of your AVM (I don't have an AVM-40 so I don't know if it is labeled like that).
> 
> 
> Then you plug the other 2 balanced connector with marking LEFT and RIGHT to the 2-CH IN balanced of your AVM (I don't have an AVM-40 so I don't know if it is labeled like that).>
> 
> 
> It is set up DAC xlr out two channels to AVM xlr in balanced 2 channel. You cannot input to the digital AES input, as the DAC is outputting analog.
> 
> 
> The question is again: is there a setting within the AVM to make the other channels active even though I am inputting only with 2 channel analog?
> 
> 
> The attachment is the back panel [avm 30- no different than the 40 except for hdmi].



*********************************************************

If you are using the Left and Right balanced inputs from a DAC to the Anthem you have several choices.


1. Set the source setup for 2 channel Balanced to Analog Direct.

It will be STEREO only as there is no digital modification to the

input signal and the only thing the Anthem is doing is providing

you volume control.


2. Set the source setup for 2 channel Balanced to Analog DSP.

You then can select Stereo with a subwoofer or Anthem Logic

for multi channel by using the Mode button on the remote.

The Anthem will convert the analog signal to digital so it can

modify the processing capabilities.


OR


Set up as in #1 above and set up an additional source using

the SAT, Aux, or other unused source button at the bottom of the remote.

Set that source's audio to use the balanced inputs and and output

as Analog DSP.


Now you can easily switch back and forth from 2 Chan Bal

(pure stereo analog) to surround using the balanced stereo inputs

(digital DSP) by using the source buttons on the bottom of the

remote and use the one suitable for the music source.


Hope this helps


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17753919
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, I don't have time right now to help with ARC questions like this here in the thread (these things take longer to analyze than I suspect most people realize). But hang in there. You may get some other responses.
> 
> 
> Some folks might find it easier to respond if you post screen captures of your ARC charts so they can just view them in their browser here.
> 
> 
> The "zip" file you attached unzips into a Windows executable program (a .exe file), so I'm not sure what you were trying to give us there.
> 
> --Bob



Sorry for the late response back but I took some major steps since posting this last week. First, ordered and today, received the upgrade to get to a d2V.


Second, I will rerun the ARC analysis as I am sure it will be different from the D2 which I posted.


I will how-ever say that due to a very simple test so far, (playing the CD Songbird by Eva Cassidy) on an ARCAM DV 137 sounded cleaner and more detailed than I had ever heard it before, (pushed it through the HDMI versus the normal 5 channel analogue). Not sure why as yet but the digital paths did not seem to insist I run the analogues and push it through the two mains, (Anthony Gallo Reference 3.1's).


Sting's "Field of Gold", sung by Eva was pure crystal and clean but with a tube like body/fullness to it.


I not sure if this evenings posting is pure adrenaline and emotion from spending an additional $4+K from the original procurement which makes this an approximately $11K Pre/Pro, (just bought the D2, 14 months a go) or actual respect for what I am hearing. Irrespective, anyone who says that the D2V with a A5 is not one of the finest mid-range audio systems is clearly stuck in the tube world, (IMHO).


After a good ARC run tomorrow, will throw the Denen 3800 on and test some High Bit Rate encoded data, e.g.: Master and Commander as an example (which is the driving reason for me to upgrade). If anyone has some suggestions on material to test, please let me know.


I will post screen copies of the D2 and D2V ARC runs if there looks like there is some dramatic differences, (have not moved the speakers at all).


Cheers


Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17775193
> 
> 
> There is no source material with >8bit color space. So no, you won't see a difference. And the banding in TV shows is largely due to cable companies compressing the signal.



gblack...yes, its true. No source material greater than 8 bits. But remember these raw images go through an onboard or external image processor with the resultant data greater than 8 bits. My Oppo 83SE had the option of 10 bit output (per color), 10 bit dithered output and 12-bit color and Off (dithered) which i suspect is 8-bit dithered output. These output options It helps optimize your video source output to the rest of the AV system. So if my Oppo puts out 36-bit color and the 50v processes it correctly and sends it to my plasma (151 KURO), I'd get the best possible video output from my system. Some AVR's would truncate the 10 or 12-bit output from the image processor to 8-bits as they couldn't handle these bit depths. Now that Anthem has eliminated this in their AVP, it leaves the display and the BD source as the limiting factors preventing you from getting the best possible color image from your system


----------



## jarac

Hi,


I am considering getting a used D2 - I was wondering if you can remove the sides so the unit goes from 19 1/4 to 17 1/4 so it can fit my tv stand area.


currently bidding on the item... thanks in advance


----------



## rosewood1




Thanks so much for taking the time to help.


Now at least I know it can be done and need to figure out how to navigate throught the setup: yes I know, I should have done that already but I have totally redone my system and I so far have not had an hdmi from and to the Anthem, so could not use on-screen setup procedures: the use of the LCD of the processor itself is very cumbersome and I could not make it advance properly or show the choices the manual describes. Now that I am getting the on-screen set up I can work on your points of advice.


Thanks very much and Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, and Happy New Year to you.


[The system does not allow this to be posted as a private message due to an annoying rule that one must post 5 times before being able to send a private message. So I apologize to the rest of the group for taking up space here].


Don Roos


----------



## Murrayb

Attached (hopefully) are my latest Arc results. On the 3 fronts, I get a drop off at around 15k and the two surrounds at about 12k. For the centre (which sits under the plasma), a few little flutters. Not sure what causes it. Don't have much flexibility on speaker location (at the front of our living room) but any suggestions would be appreciated. Despite the dips and flutters, it sounds very good.


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/17779119
> 
> 
> Sorry for the late response back but I took some major steps since posting this last week. First, ordered and today, received the upgrade to get to a d2V.
> 
> 
> Second, I will rerun the ARC analysis as I am sure it will be different from the D2 which I posted.
> 
> 
> I will how-ever say that due to a very simple test so far, (playing the CD Songbird by Eva Cassidy) on an ARCAM DV 137 sounded cleaner and more detailed than I had ever heard it before, (pushed it through the HDMI versus the normal 5 channel analogue). Not sure why as yet but the digital paths did not seem to insist I run the analogues and push it through the two mains, (Anthony Gallo Reference 3.1's).
> 
> 
> Sting's "Field of Gold", sung by Eva was pure crystal and clean but with a tube like body/fullness to it.
> 
> 
> I not sure if this evenings posting is pure adrenaline and emotion from spending an additional $4+K from the original procurement which makes this an approximately $11K Pre/Pro, (just bought the D2, 14 months a go) or actual respect for what I am hearing. Irrespective, anyone who says that the D2V with a A5 is not one of the finest mid-range audio systems is clearly stuck in the tube world, (IMHO).
> 
> 
> After a good ARC run tomorrow, will throw the Denen 3800 on and test some High Bit Rate encoded data, e.g.: Master and Commander as an example (which is the driving reason for me to upgrade). If anyone has some suggestions on material to test, please let me know.
> 
> 
> I will post screen copies of the D2 and D2V ARC runs if there looks like there is some dramatic differences, (have not moved the speakers at all).
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



Try the latest Terminator movie, Terminator Salvation. It has one of the better DTS HD MA tracks I've heard with some killer bass.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murrayb* /forum/post/17783516
> 
> 
> Attached (hopefully) are my latest Arc results. On the 3 fronts, I get a drop off at around 15k and the two surrounds at about 12k. For the centre (which sits under the plasma), a few little flutters. Not sure what causes it. Don't have much flexibility on speaker location (at the front of our living room) but any suggestions would be appreciated. Despite the dips and flutters, it sounds very good.



That doesn't look too bad. I'd try changing the Max EQ Freq to 15000 and see what happens to your overall solution. If the low end doesn't get much worse, upload it and give it a listen. After that, bump the Room Gain up a db and see if you like that. Both of those can be done easily without having to remeasure and if it sounds worse, it's easy to put back the way it was.


I can empathize with you on the lack of flexibility in speaker locations. There are some small things you can do such as adjust front/back tilt, toe-in, or add/move acoustic panels and bass traps. Just don't get too obsessed with making the graphs look perfect. Find something that sounds good to you, pack up the computer and mic, and start enjoying your system.


----------



## rosewood1




Computer Audiophile has a listing of free downloads in 24/176.4 resolution.
http://www.computeraudiophile.com/ca...hile-Downloads 


I have an HRx sampler of 10 tracks by Reference Recordings [sent with my Berkeley Audio purchase] you could use if you wish [[email protected]].


Merry Christmas to all.


----------



## Murrayb

Thanks for the suggestions, Charlie. Bumping up the Max EQ largely eliminated the dips at the 12 - 15 k without any apparent change at the bottom end. It created a few little flutters for the front right but the graphs now stay pretty true to the target. Bumped up the room gain as well and have loaded it up to the D2v. Sounds good so far.


Have to say (again) that this is just a superb sounding processor, especially for music. It replaced a Krell Showcase and the D2v is just heads and shoulders better. Never liked the digital processing in the Showcase for music and listened to music through its analog input. The digital processing in the D2v is simply stellar. No digital harshness at all. I have a Blue Circle DAC which I'm running through the D2v in both analog direct and analog dsp and after comparing all of the inputs, I have slight preference for the direct digital into the D2v. Hate getting rid of the BC because it's a great sounding piece, but the dacs in the D2v are its equal if not better. If anyone has any doubts about the music performance of the D2v, don't. Most stereo only setups would be hard pressed to sound this good. Thanks for letting me gush.


----------



## Larry Lang

Tolstoi


Thanks so much for you detailed reply regrading the B1 setup. I haven't been home but will let you know how it goes after the holiday. Again many thanks.


Larry


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murrayb* /forum/post/17783516
> 
> 
> Attached (hopefully) are my latest Arc results. On the 3 fronts, I get a drop off at around 15k and the two surrounds at about 12k. For the centre (which sits under the plasma), a few little flutters. Not sure what causes it. Don't have much flexibility on speaker location (at the front of our living room) but any suggestions would be appreciated. Despite the dips and flutters, it sounds very good.



If the sound is good up to 15000 Hz. try up to 20000 always looking for big changes in the lower freq. Listening is always the best test.


John


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17776988
> 
> 
> This is a natural response with ARC off and before running and implementing a new sweep with ARC and uploading.



Patrick, what is represented by each of the 3 curves (# of speakers, # of channels, etc.)?


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## robertrobert

Sorry if this is too basic but wondering if the D2 (not the v version) and the AVM50 processors can decode lossless sound or not. I found a used D2 for a little over $3k and the 50 for a little of $2k. I'm not sure if this is a good deal or not. I guess not as much if TrueHD and DTS MA can't be processed.


Any input is appreciated.


Robert


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robertrobert* /forum/post/17787924
> 
> 
> Sorry if this is too basic but wondering if the D2 (not the v version) and the AVM50 processors can decode lossless sound or not. I found a used D2 for a little over $3k and the 50 for a little of $2k. I'm not sure if this is a good deal or not. I guess not as much if TrueHD and DTS MA can't be processed.
> 
> 
> Any input is appreciated.
> 
> 
> Robert



They do not decode DTS-MA or Dolby True HD. But they do accept PCM input and any Blu-Ray player that can decode DTS or DTHD will output them as PCM over HDMI. That's how I have my setup and it works great. In fact there are advantages to decoding the audio in the player as you will get the secondary audio (where available) effects.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murrayb* /forum/post/17785702
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions, Charlie. Bumping up the Max EQ largely eliminated the dips at the 12 - 15 k without any apparent change at the bottom end. It created a few little flutters for the front right but the graphs now stay pretty true to the target. Bumped up the room gain as well and have loaded it up to the D2v. Sounds good so far.
> 
> 
> Have to say (again) that this is just a superb sounding processor, especially for music. It replaced a Krell Showcase and the D2v is just heads and shoulders better. Never liked the digital processing in the Showcase for music and listened to music through its analog input. The digital processing in the D2v is simply stellar. No digital harshness at all. I have a Blue Circle DAC which I'm running through the D2v in both analog direct and analog dsp and after comparing all of the inputs, I have slight preference for the direct digital into the D2v. Hate getting rid of the BC because it's a great sounding piece, but the dacs in the D2v are its equal if not better. If anyone has any doubts about the music performance of the D2v, don't. Most stereo only setups would be hard pressed to sound this good. Thanks for letting me gush.



As jayray mentioned, try a Max EQ of 20Khz. If things start falling apart, back it down in 1Khz steps. Don't be in a hurry and listen to a variety of material at each setting.


If you are going to gush, then this is the place to do it. I have a 50v and run everything via digital inputs. It wrings every last bit of performance and quality out of the rest of my system.


----------



## emailtim

Is it possible to measure the room with the ARC software's "calculated values" applied (after the upload has been completed) in order to validate the "real in-room" plots compared to the "calculated in-room" plots?


My D2V arrived on Wednesday. I have been trying to ramp up the learning curve. I have also experienced the switching dropouts of the D2V's HDMI inputs (v2.08). If I switch source inputs out and back, it regains handshake with the source component. The D2V will either completely loose handshake or will drop some color channels. Once I had a military green-cartoonish picture. It was a neat effect, but my wife didn't like watching her movie that way.


Here is my initial set of plots after trying to address some setup and room issues. I would appreciate it if anyone is willing to give them a critique and provide any suggestions.


I lowered the sub's XO point on the music configuration because there was too much summing of the bass signals in stereo mode at the overlapping XO points.


Thanks,

Tim

 

2009_12_25_d.zip 314.0498046875k . file


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17787878
> 
> 
> Patrick, what is represented by each of the 3 curves (# of speakers, # of channels, etc.)?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim



Hey Tim, sorry just getting back to this thread...


BTW WELCOME TO THE BIG KIDS THREAD CLUB - as a new owner of the D2v !!!


Below is a typical graph, and as you can see on the bottom...

The Red line is the Measured response and labeled for each speaker

The Blue line is The Target that ARC would like to get your response to.

The Green line is what ARC calculates that each speakers response will look like after correction.












You can make adjustments to the room gain and also how high your FREQ correction will go up to... the higher you set it, the more processing power ARC needs to devote to those upper freqs.


Don't be afraid to post up your graphs to get more help from other members here that have been through this many many times. There may be others here that also have your same EQIP and what they have found works really well as far as configurations as to sub crossovers instead of running mains...


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17789416
> 
> 
> Is it possible to measure the room with the ARC software's "calculated values" applied (after the upload has been completed) in order to validate the "real in-room" plots compared to the "calculated in-room" plots?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim




You can upload your corrected values to the D2v and then do another sweep, which you do not have to upload, and you should be able to see the response of the changes.


Also, you don't have to upload right away after measuring - you can mess around with the target freq, and room gain and calculate to see how that works on your response - then upload if need be...


----------



## emailtim

Hi Patrick,


My question was in reference to your plot in post #25983 on page 867. There was no legend or speaker/channel identification on it. I see what looks like a full range plot and a "pristine target" (sub)woofer plot. Does the full range plot include mains and subs summed?


Also, I have posted a zip file of a RTF file containing my plots and observed issues that I am trying to address. I would appreciate a professional opinion !!!


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17789452
> 
> 
> ... You can upload your corrected values to the D2v and then do another sweep...



When I do this I get a warning message stating that all values will be lost if I proceed, so I assume that it is only measuring the uncorrected speakers (minus the room correction values).


I was using the ARC plots to test the speaker and broadband trap placements and their corresponding effects (good and bad =).


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17789416
> 
> 
> Is it possible to measure the room with the ARC software's "calculated values" applied (after the upload has been completed) in order to validate the "real in-room" plots compared to the "calculated in-room" plots?



No, the ARC sweep is always done with the EQ disabled. Otherwise, it would detect that no room correction (or a minimal amount) was needed, cancelling out your previous measurement.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17789416
> 
> 
> My D2V arrived on Wednesday. I have been trying to ramp up the learning curve. I have also experienced the switching dropouts of the D2V's HDMI inputs (v2.08). If I switch source inputs out and back, it regains handshake with the source component. The D2V will either completely loose handshake or will drop some color channels. Once I had a military green-cartoonish picture. It was a neat effect, but my wife didn't like watching her movie that way.



Welcome to HDMI hell. This is par for the course, and the D2 seems to be somewhat more sensitive to HDMI gremlins.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17789416
> 
> 
> Here is my initial set of plots after trying to address some setup and room issues. I would appreciate it if anyone is willing to give them a critique and provide any suggestions.



If you attached screen shots of your ARC results, it is much easier for people to open. Many people avoid ZIP files for security reasons.


----------



## Warpdrv

Hey buddy.... that post with measurement was made with an external Laptop & Mic running REW 


If you run ARC use a new name for every session, so you don't overwrite the last.


If you run ARC and get a sweep, take some screen shots and post them in jpg format like the others have so we can take a look at what you are seeing as far as response....


Sending PM...


----------



## mlfeatherston

I just added an Oppo to my setup, and I'm having issues getting the proper audio sent over HDMI to my AVM-50. I'm running 1.33 FW on the Anthem, and the recent public beta Oppo FW. I have them hooked up via HDMI. Oppo is set to send LPCM over HDMI. Any ideas or suggestions? Here are some example anomalies:


-- Neil Young archives BluRay: Disc has 96 and 192 kHz LPCM tracks. Player downsamples to 48 kHz instead of playing one of them directly.

-- Neil Young Harvest DVD-A. Player sends 96kHz multichannel LPCM properly (only correct playback in this list)

-- AIX records sampler included with Oppo player, 48kHz LPCM sent instead of higher resolution on music tracks

-- AIX Channel identification tracks all have problems as below:

->Dolby TrueHD track: male voice says that I am improperly hearing the Dolby Digital track instead of the TrueHD track, make sure that I am using HDMI

-> DTS HD-MA track: I can hear the channel IDs moving, but they are at an extremely low volume. At reference level, they are barely audible

->LPCM tracks are downsampled to 48kHz instead of native 96kHz


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17789846
> 
> 
> ...If you attached screen shots of your ARC results, it is much easier for people to open. Many people avoid ZIP files for security reasons.



Sorry about that. I was trying to leverage the compression of zip and only require opening 1 document to review all of the higher resolution results as opposed to opening 4 separate windows of lower resolution plots.


Here is a repost.

*Speakers Placement:*
Center channel ontop of entertainment cabinet, 1 foot from ceiling.
Dipole Surrounds and dipole rears mounted on the wall against the ceiling.
Sub in front right corner.

*Observed Issues:*
Dip in L/R mains between [100Hz-200Hz] (maybe able to address by using active XO versus passive XO).
Peak in L/R surrounds @ 150Hz
Dip in L/R rears @ 100Hz

*Connections:*
2 HDMI 1.3 inputs
1 HDMI 1.3 output
8 XLR outputs


----------



## mlfeatherston

Another little piece of information:


Just tried playing Neil Young's On the Beach DVD-A. This disc has a 176 kHz track, and a 48kHz track, both in 2 channel stereo. The Oppo starts playing the 176 kHz track. The Anthem reports it as 88.2 kHz, and the sounds is very garbled, although I can sense some structure in the noise. The Oppo doesn't allow me to see or pick the 48kHz track - pressing the audio button only brings up the 176 kHz track.


So, I can't tell which component is at fault. Some things seem just fine. Some seem like the Oppo. Others, it seems like the Anthem is misinterpreting what is being sent.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlfeatherston* /forum/post/17789850
> 
> 
> I just added an Oppo to my setup, and I'm having issues getting the proper audio sent over HDMI to my AVM-50. I'm running 1.33 FW on the Anthem, and the recent public beta Oppo FW. I have them hooked up via HDMI. Oppo is set to send LPCM over HDMI. Any ideas or suggestions? Here are some example anomalies:
> 
> 
> -- Neil Young archives BluRay: Disc has 96 and 192 kHz LPCM tracks. Player downsamples to 48 kHz instead of playing one of them directly.
> 
> -- Neil Young Harvest DVD-A. Player sends 96kHz multichannel LPCM properly (only correct playback in this list)
> 
> -- AIX records sampler included with Oppo player, 48kHz LPCM sent instead of higher resolution on music tracks
> 
> -- AIX Channel identification tracks all have problems as below:
> 
> ->Dolby TrueHD track: male voice says that I am improperly hearing the Dolby Digital track instead of the TrueHD track, make sure that I am using HDMI
> 
> -> DTS HD-MA track: I can hear the channel IDs moving, but they are at an extremely low volume. At reference level, they are barely audible
> 
> ->LPCM tracks are downsampled to 48kHz instead of native 96kHz


----------



## Bob Anderson

Hi all


Just starting to learn the power of ARC and am hoping for some advice on my charts, (JPG's attached this time).


When looking at others charts, their "Measured" lines generally go all the way up to the 20K range whilst my speakers cut out or barely exceed 7,500 to 10,000 Hz and these are not in-expensive speakers, (Anthony Gallo Reference 3.1).


Since all the speakers are effected the same, is it possible I have something in the D2v set up incorrectly?


Any suggestions and guidance would be greatly appreciated.


Cheers


Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlfeatherston* /forum/post/17790200
> 
> 
> Another little piece of information:
> 
> 
> Just tried playing Neil Young's On the Beach DVD-A. This disc has a 176 kHz track, and a 48kHz track, both in 2 channel stereo. The Oppo starts playing the 176 kHz track. The Anthem reports it as 88.2 kHz, and the sounds is very garbled, although I can sense some structure in the noise. The Oppo doesn't allow me to see or pick the 48kHz track - pressing the audio button only brings up the 176 kHz track.
> 
> 
> So, I can't tell which component is at fault. Some things seem just fine. Some seem like the Oppo. Others, it seems like the Anthem is misinterpreting what is being sent.



I have most of those titles and will try to test a few of them. I'd guess this is Oppo issues. I know I had trouble with the On the Beach DVD-A during the Oppo EAP period. On the TrueHD and DTS HD-MA issue make sure secondary audio is turned off in the Oppo.


----------



## obie_fl

Do your Gallos have a tweeter switch?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/17790345
> 
> 
> Hi all
> 
> 
> Just starting to learn the power of ARC and am hoping for some advice on my charts, (JPG's attached this time).
> 
> 
> When looking at others charts, their "Measured" lines generally go all the way up to the 20K range whilst my speakers cut out or barely exceed 7,500 to 10,000 Hz and these are not in-expensive speakers, (Anthony Gallo Reference 3.1).
> 
> 
> Since all the speakers are effected the same, is it possible I have something in the D2v set up incorrectly?
> 
> 
> Any suggestions and guidance would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob


----------



## Bob Anderson

Emailtim


In looking at your graphs and your ARC targets, how did you arrive at those specific targets or are they the result fo the ARC analysis. My targets are substantially different and am hitting the archives to see how one goes about modifying to enhance the performance?


Warpdrv made some interesting suggestions to the data you submitted and I am wondering how it turned out?


I am going to run Max EQ at 20K as he suggests and work backwards but for the Room Gain, you've got 3.0 for Movie and 2.0 for Music, just wondering why you set it that way.


Cheers


Bob


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17790526
> 
> 
> Do your Gallos have a tweeter switch?



No they don't Obie, that was taken off for the "B" series run of of the Anthony Gallo Reference 3.1's.


The CDT (cylindrical diaphragm transducer) tweeter is designed to handle 3kHz to 35kHz, (no cross-overs in this speaker's design from mid to tweeter).


Will try changing the settings as Warpdrv suggested and see if that will work tomorrow.


Wondering as I see that some speaker systems show "Measured" easily deliver up to 20K and some, (like mine), do not naturally hit it? Does this suggest that certain speakers need higher power to really shine in the high frequencies?


Cheers


Bob


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/17790617
> 
> 
> Emailtim
> 
> 
> In looking at your graphs and your ARC targets, how did you arrive at those specific targets or are they the result fo the ARC analysis. My targets are substantially different and am hitting the archives to see how one goes about modifying to enhance the performance?
> 
> 
> Warpdrv made some interesting suggestions to the data you submitted and I am wondering how it turned out?
> 
> 
> I am going to run Max EQ at 20K as he suggests and work backwards but for the Room Gain, you've got 3.0 for Movie and 2.0 for Music, just wondering why you set it that way.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



I am new to the ARC software, but have used DEQX software. The ARC software seems to hide a lot of the detail and configurations compared to the DEQX software. The ARC software is also missing a few plots that will actually show you what is going on with your final corrected integrated system. It does not appear that you can measure the corrected Mains + Sub response in a single graph. It also doesn't appear to allow you to measure and plot the final corrected system.

*All of the targets are from ARC except for:*

1) I reduced the Room Gain from 3.9 to 3.0 for movie and 2.0 for Music. I assumed from previous posts that this would release some processing power back to the unit to allow for a wider MAX EQ freq. I was also looking for a flatter, less colored curve for music. My 2 channel room using DEQX is from 11Hz - 20KHz +/- 3dB (including the summed sub/main XO integration).

2) I reduced the XO point of the sub to 35 (plot shows 40, but is now 35) for music. Planars and Electrostats are harder to integrate with cone drivers/subs at higher frequencies.

3) I reduced the XO point of the mains to 40Hz for music where they naturally start to roll off.

4) I raised the 5KHz MAX EQ to 17KHz to address the 15KHz dip. I read this from prior reviews and suggestions of other members prior plots. Does increasing this value introduce phase problems?


The bass overlap between the mains and sub for stereo was summing to high and fatiguing my ears. Bass was bloated at this overlap. Stereo now sounds nice down to the lower registers with the sub without the summing at the XO points.


I am considering making my L/R mains full range and using an electronic 3-way XO to take care of the 100-200Hz dip and integrating 1 sub into the mains so the D2V only sees 2 speakers (and not the sub). I would then try adding another sub hooked up the the D2V to handle the LFE from the rest of the small surrounds, rears and centers. This should give me what I am after for stereo and also give me LFE for Home Theater. I already have these parts for experimentation, so it won't cost me anything if it doesn't work.


FWIW, I am using 3 broadband Realtraps up front and an Owens Corning broadband trap in the back. If you look at the link on my signature (Work In Progress), you can see some pictures of the front sound stage before I replaced my DefTech CLR3000's L/R with my Magnepan 3.6's.


I have a list of things to try from WarpDrv and my own notes from reviewing my graphs. I am not through all of them yet. I am trying the easiest/quickest things first. Next thing to try is swapping my L&R fronts which will put the ribbon tweeters on the outsides and the bass panels on the inside to see if it does anything with [100Hz-200Hz] dips.


Sincerely,

Tim


----------



## mlfeatherston




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17790507
> 
> 
> I have most of those titles and will try to test a few of them. I'd guess this is Oppo issues. I know I had trouble with the On the Beach DVD-A during the Oppo EAP period. On the TrueHD and DTS HD-MA issue make sure secondary audio is turned off in the Oppo.



Thanks, Tom.


I did turn off secondary audio from another suggestion. It certainly did help with some things. Most of the tracks on the AIX disc now send multi-channel 96/24 properly now, decoded from TrueHD and DTS HD-MA. But, the stereo LPCM 96/24 tracks on there won't play. The Anthem does show 96 kHz as the input for them...just no audio.


It also flipped the Archives BluRays to not working. The Anthem properly shows 96 kHz on those tracks now....but no audio, or very low level garbled audio.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/17790700
> 
> 
> No they don't Obie, that was taken off for the "B" series run of of the Anthony Gallo Reference 3.1's.
> 
> 
> The CDT (cylindrical diaphragm transducer) tweeter is designed to handle 3kHz to 35kHz, (no cross-overs in this speaker's design from mid to tweeter).
> 
> 
> Will try changing the settings as Warpdrv suggested and see if that will work tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Wondering as I see that some speaker systems show "Measured" easily deliver up to 20K and some, (like mine), do not naturally hit it? Does this suggest that certain speakers need higher power to really shine in the high frequencies?
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



Power should not be an issue when driving high frequencies. Normally a tweeter is only getting a fraction of a watt. Power is needed for the lower frequencies. I'm not sure why ARC is not seeing energy up above 10K. I'm sure your Gallos have plenty up there unless something is seriously wrong with them. The ARC settings should have no impact on the measured readings. I guess it is possible you got a bad ARC mic or the ARC tone generator isn't functioning correctly. Are you pointing your mic straight up?


Oh and can you actually hear sound if you put your ear up to the tweeter?


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17790741
> 
> 
> I am new to the ARC software, but have used DEQX software. The ARC software seems to hide a lot of the detail and configurations compared to the DEQX software. The ARC software is also missing a few plots that will actually show you what is going on with your final corrected integrated system. It does not appear that you can measure the corrected Mains + Sub response in a single graph. It also doesn't appear to allow you to measure and plot the final corrected system.
> 
> 
> All of the targets are from ARC except for:
> 
> 1) I reduced the Room Gain from 3.9 to 3.0 for movie and 2.0 for Music. I assumed from previous posts that this would release some processing power back to the unit to allow for a wider MAX EQ freq. I was also looking for a flatter, less colored curve for music. My 2 channel room using DEQX is from 11Hz - 20KHz +/- db (including the summed sub/main XO integration).
> 
> 2) I reduced the XO point of the sub to 35 (plot shows 40, but is now 35) for music. Planars and Electrostats are harder to integrate with cone drivers/subs at higher frequencies.
> 
> 3) I reduced the XO point of the mains to 40Hz for music where they naturally start to roll off.
> 
> 4) I raised the 5KHz MAX EQ to 17KHz to address the 15KHz dip. I read this from prior reviews and suggestions of other members prior plots. Does increasing this value introduce phase problems?
> 
> 
> The bass overlap between the mains and sub for stereo was summing to high and fatiguing my ears. Bass was bloated at this overlap. Stereo now sounds nice down to the lower registers with the sub without the summing at the XO points.
> 
> 
> I am considering making my L/R mains full range and using an electronic 3-way XO to take care of the 100-200Hz dip and integrating 1 sub into the mains so the D2V only sees 2 speakers (and not the sub). I would then try adding another sub hooked up the the D2V to handle the LFE from the rest of the small surrounds, rears and centers. This should give me what I am after for stereo and also give me LFE for Home Theater. I already have these parts for experimentation, so it won't cost me anything if it doesn't work.
> 
> 
> FWIW, I am using 3 broadband Realtraps up front and an Owens Corning broadband trap in the back. If you look at the link on my signature (Work In Progress), you can see some pictures of the front sound stage before I replaced my DefTech CLR3000's L/R with my Magnepan 3.6's.
> 
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Tim



Hi Tim and thanks for the details.


1) Was the 3.9 gain the measured gain from ARC? Mine is at 3.094, (first run had music and movie at the same). I like your strategy to move the Music down and am wondering if you heard any difference? If the 3.9 is ARC's measurement, then your at almost 1/2 for your music output and am wondering what your feelings are in regard to the difference.


2) My MJ Acoutics Reference 200 Sub has RCA input for the LFE channel and Speakon connector for connection to the L/R Mains, (2 independent X/overs), to add additional sub but my charts don't seem to suggest the need for help in that area. Irrespective, see where your going.


3) Like your HT, very nice design, mine unfortunately is on the main floor, (was living room, very open house design), so very limited in where speakers can go, where one could place traps, etc.


Cheers


Bob


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/17791041
> 
> 
> Hi Tim and thanks for the details.
> 
> 
> 1) Was the 3.9 gain the measured gain from ARC? Mine is at 3.094, (first run had music and movie at the same). I like your strategy to move the Music down and am wondering if you heard any difference? If the 3.9 is ARC's measurement, then your at almost 1/2 for your music output and am wondering what your feelings are in regard to the difference.
> 
> 
> 2) My MJ Acoutics Reference 200 Sub has RCA input for the LFE channel and Speakon connector for connection to the L/R Mains, (2 independent X/overs), to add additional sub but my charts don't seem to suggest the need for help in that area. Irrespective, see where your going.
> 
> 
> 3) Like your HT, very nice design, mine unfortunately is on the main floor, (was living room, very open house design), so very limited in where speakers can go, where one could place traps, etc.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



Hi Bob,


It was 3.945749. Sorry, I truncated it in my preceding post. The most I heard was from changing the front Main/Sub XOs points to get rid of the summed overlap. It appears that ARC does not allow you to set the slopes.


The Home Theater is sounding the best that it has ever been so far. I just updated to a new 7-channel amp and the D2V.


I also wish my HT room was larger. I have the opportunity to make it longer, but not wider with a potential remodel. The remodel will make my 2-channel room much larger. Planars need plenty of room to breath.


Tim


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17582901
> 
> 
> Sure, give Anthem tech support a call tomorrow. They will get you access to a Windows Utility program called the Flash Eraser. It will reset all the programmable parts in your Anthem to the state where they can accept a new install.
> 
> 
> The error message you are getting happens sometimes when a prior install attempt failed. The unit has been left in an intermediate state that needs to be cleared before it can accept a new try at the install.
> 
> --Bob



Still no love on this firmware update. Must be the most finicky piece of electronics I own! One year, a Windows netbook purchase, and three USB adapters later, can anyone help me get this done? I would love to finally run ARC....


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17791458
> 
> 
> ... One year, a Windows netbook purchase, and three USB adapters later, can anyone help me get this done? I would love to finally run ARC....



They should replace the serial cable with either USB or Ethernet. Serial cables have gone the way of the dinosaurs and floppy discs.


Tim


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17791458
> 
> 
> Still no love on this firmware update. Must be the most finicky piece of electronics I own! One year, a Windows netbook purchase, and three USB adapters later, can anyone help me get this done? I would love to finally run ARC....



Which adapter did you get. As you probably know, the Keyspan is the one which works best with most laptops.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17791508
> 
> 
> They should replace the serial cable with either USB or Ethernet. Serial cables have gone the way of the dinosaurs and floppy discs.
> 
> 
> Tim



You'll have to tell the custom installers since they request it be in there. Most D2vs are installed by the custom boys not us.

John


----------



## Warpdrv

I think they fall back on the fact that the serial port doubles as a full controller port at the same time as being a PC connection devise...


I would also prefer either a USB or ethernet control for communicating with a PC over a serial port... def antiquated IMO as well..


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17791550
> 
> 
> You'll have to tell the custom installers since they request it be in there. Most D2vs are installed by the custom boys not us.
> 
> John



Good luck trying to buy a decent laptop in the last 5 years with a stock 9-pin serial port. I have flashed a lot of devices in the 80's and 90's with serial ports, but much better options are now available.


----------



## obie_fl

OK just checked the Neil Young discs on my D2 (1.33) and Oppo with the latest Beta.

On the Beach: Played fine at 88.2K which is correct since the D2 only goes up to 96K. I can't see the 48K track either.

Harvest: Played fine at 96K.

Archive 1 BD: Played fine at 96K.

I couldn't find my AIX sampler but if I do I'll give it a shot.


So I guess we can't blame the Oppo firmware. I'd check your Oppo settings very closely especially the secondary audio setting.

Oops see that you corrected the secondary audio. What video mode does the Anthem show when you have the issue?

Maybe try a different cable or HDMI port on the Anthem



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlfeatherston* /forum/post/17790200
> 
> 
> Another little piece of information:
> 
> 
> Just tried playing Neil Young's On the Beach DVD-A. This disc has a 176 kHz track, and a 48kHz track, both in 2 channel stereo. The Oppo starts playing the 176 kHz track. The Anthem reports it as 88.2 kHz, and the sounds is very garbled, although I can sense some structure in the noise. The Oppo doesn't allow me to see or pick the 48kHz track - pressing the audio button only brings up the 176 kHz track.
> 
> 
> So, I can't tell which component is at fault. Some things seem just fine. Some seem like the Oppo. Others, it seems like the Anthem is misinterpreting what is being sent.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by mlfeatherston View Post
> 
> I just added an Oppo to my setup, and I'm having issues getting the proper audio sent over HDMI to my AVM-50. I'm running 1.33 FW on the Anthem, and the recent public beta Oppo FW. I have them hooked up via HDMI. Oppo is set to send LPCM over HDMI. Any ideas or suggestions? Here are some example anomalies:
> 
> 
> -- Neil Young archives BluRay: Disc has 96 and 192 kHz LPCM tracks. Player downsamples to 48 kHz instead of playing one of them directly.
> 
> -- Neil Young Harvest DVD-A. Player sends 96kHz multichannel LPCM properly (only correct playback in this list)
> 
> -- AIX records sampler included with Oppo player, 48kHz LPCM sent instead of higher resolution on music tracks
> 
> -- AIX Channel identification tracks all have problems as below:
> 
> ->Dolby TrueHD track: male voice says that I am improperly hearing the Dolby Digital track instead of the TrueHD track, make sure that I am using HDMI
> 
> -> DTS HD-MA track: I can hear the channel IDs moving, but they are at an extremely low volume. At reference level, they are barely audible
> 
> ->LPCM tracks are downsampled to 48kHz instead of native 96kHz


----------



## mlfeatherston

Thanks, Tom. I think I finally figured it out. But, there's still something odd. Short story is:


AVM-50 is garbling the audio horribly on 2-channel, hi-res LPCM inputs IF AND ONLY IF I'm in the Dolby PLIIx-Music mode.


Multi-channel LPCM, hi-res is fine even in PLIIx-Music. 2-channel low res, fine. 2-channel, hi-res is fine in any other mode - stereo, PLIIX-Movie, game, AL-Music, and so on.


So....I guess I feel better because I can listen to those tracks now. In regular stereo, or AL-Music if I want that. But I'm more than a bit perplexed as to why PLIIx-Music is doing that. It clearly can handle the bandwidth, since multi-channel works.


Can you try those same discs in that mode, see if you're getting the same result?


How I found it was a pretty convoluted process. Ruling out everything else, I decided to try different HDMI cables and ports and see if anything worked. Aha - first try, different cable, plugged into HDMI-3 instead of 1, with a different source input....it worked. So, I tried different combinations of cables/ports. The only thing that worked was that particular source, regardless of which cable or HDMI port I used. I just accidentally stumbled on the difference (finally) that that source had a different mode preset (STEREO) for 2-ch input.






> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17792101
> 
> 
> OK just checked the Neil Young discs on my D2 (1.33) and Oppo with the latest Beta.
> 
> On the Beach: Played fine at 88.2K which is correct since the D2 only goes up to 96K. I can't see the 48K track either.
> 
> Harvest: Played fine at 96K.
> 
> Archive 1 BD: Played fine at 96K.
> 
> I couldn't find my AIX sampler but if I do I'll give it a shot.
> 
> 
> So I guess we can't blame the Oppo firmware. I'd check your Oppo settings very closely especially the secondary audio setting.
> 
> Oops see that you corrected the secondary audio. What video mode does the Anthem show when you have the issue?
> 
> Maybe try a different cable or HDMI port on the Anthem


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/17790345
> 
> 
> Hi all
> 
> 
> Just starting to learn the power of ARC and am hoping for some advice on my charts, (JPG's attached this time).
> 
> 
> When looking at others charts, their "Measured" lines generally go all the way up to the 20K range whilst my speakers cut out or barely exceed 7,500 to 10,000 Hz and these are not in-expensive speakers, (Anthony Gallo Reference 3.1).
> 
> 
> Since all the speakers are effected the same, is it possible I have something in the D2v set up incorrectly?
> 
> 
> Any suggestions and guidance would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



I don't think the measurements are being displayed correctly on your computer. There has to be something there since the ARC solution shows that it's just going along with the measurements in the higher freqs. I doubt ARC would make up measurements to fill in the blank. Maybe a reinstall of ARC on your computer would work.


----------



## Brian Stone

Hi All -


Just finished running ARC for the first time after upgrading from an AVM 20 to an AVM 50v. Would appreciate any advice on whether these charts look normal, or if I can do something to improve them.


Thanks.

 

Arc Results 1.zip 428.67578125k . file

 

Arc Results 2.zip 147.5771484375k . file

 

Arc Results 3.zip 72.8994140625k . file


----------



## barrygordon

I am asking for some basic help. I am seriously looking at the Anthem AVM 50v but am somewhat confused and have several questions. Any help will be greatly appreciated. This is a long thread to go through but I am on my way.


I want the unit to handle both music and movies. Music is from a Transporter dealing with FLAC files and played out via Toslink to the AVP. I have many tracks of DTS music in my library and many stereo tracks.


I also will use the AVP for zone 2 music only and that will be analog stereo (XM radio, Slim Receiver).


Video comes from STB's (can be HDMI or cpmponent but am favoring component); DVD changers, PS2 and Wii over Component with Coaxial digital audio; A PC putting out 1080p over HDMI; and VuDu at 1080p over HDMI.


My current system has a DVDO Edge and a Cary Cinema11A. I am very dissatisfied with the current system due to all sorts of extraneous loud pops and clicks, loss of audio (cinema 11A only when pausing music streams), audio lock on delays, HDCP caused switching delays. I feel most of the problems are due to DVDO/Cinema 11A issues. DVDO is working very hard top resolve these but Cary Audio has not got a clue and expresses no interest in fixing issues.


I realize that I will have to live with things like HDCP switching delays until the new High speed chips come out that hold settings for sources so a source does not see a disconnect as things are switched. BUT I no longer want to live with loud pops and clicks, motorboating, and loss of audio for no reason.


Will some one please comment on these concerns?


Also I am having a duece of a time finding dealers. The Anthem site just points me to one (I am in central FL) and I would prefer several to choose from (Ideally one that is out of state and ships).


Lastly I am not sure anymore what the MSRP on the AVM 50v is and what are typical dealer discounts. I would like to spend under $5000.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17791621
> 
> 
> Good luck trying to buy a decent laptop in the last 5 years with a stock 9-pin serial port. I have flashed a lot of devices in the 80's and 90's with serial ports, but much better options are now available.



This is why we have and so has Anthem, recommended people buy the Keyspan adapter. I have had no issues with either my AVM 50 or D2v and I don't think *many* others have either. I agree USB is simpler but so far the serial port has not been a problem with this specific usb-serial adapter.

John


----------



## Warpdrv

I'll add in the PCMCIA to serial has been flawless for anyone needing a connection solution http://www.iwin2win.com/rsse1pcadch.html 


These can be found on ebay as well, look for the same picture - $20 free ship from california...


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/17793800
> 
> 
> Hi All -
> 
> 
> Just finished running ARC for the first time after upgrading from an AVM 20 to an AVM 50v. Would appreciate any advice on whether these charts look normal, or if I can do something to improve them.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Hi Brian


Can you repost your charts in JPG versus Zipped? I went through the same process and problem with zip files is the potential for virus transfer.


Cheers


Bob


----------



## Bob Anderson

Not sure why my graphs were not showing measured audio from approximately 7.5K and up but another round of sweeps have up to 20K.


I modified my parameters dropping all speakers Response Cutoffs by 10-20 but really could not hear much difference in EQ on, EQ off testing.


Also increased Max EQ to 20K and lowered Music Config Room Gain 1 dB verus Movie.


Been testing differnent music cd's to see if I can hear the difference but I think my ears are not sensitive enough or I am not playing the right music!


If folks could take a look at the charts and any suggestions would be appreciated.


Cheers


Bob


----------



## Brian Stone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/17793995
> 
> 
> Hi Brian
> 
> 
> Can you repost your charts in JPG versus Zipped? I went through the same process and problem with zip files is the potential for virus transfer.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



Hi Bob -


Sorry about that. JPG's are attached.


Thanks.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/17794052
> 
> 
> 
> Also increased Max EQ to 20K and lowered Music Config Room Gain 1 dB verus Movie.



Bob,


I think increasing the MAX EQ to 20Hz separated your 2 plots lines such that you can now see the measured plot. I think ARC tries to correct through the MAX EQ range (creates separate lines) and then just follows/writes on top of the measured plot line from MAX EQ upwards.


As WarpDrv suggested, create your first plot named something like XYZ_a, then create the next plot files named XYZ_b, _c, _d, _e and so on. Once you have more than one plot file, you can open them simultaneously and compare the results to see if your modifications are helping or hurting. This should help you optimize your room so ARC has less corrections to make. Less processing is better.


Tim


----------



## emailtim

JayRay,


I have a Serial-2-USB adapter that I have been using to flash (and use as a comm port) embedded devices for a few years now and I have no problems with it. When I plug it into a new laptop, XP automatically finds its drivers on the Microsoft website. I will have to see if I can find the make/model number because it appears to work fine with the D2V.


I also have a Keyspan USB-2-Serial adapter in my office that also works with no problems.


Tim


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/17794126
> 
> 
> Hi Bob -
> 
> 
> Sorry about that. JPG's are attached.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Hi Brian,


Take my comments with a grain of salt because I am a newbie here.


From reading prior reviews, the room solution should be targeted/centered at 75dB. Your solutions look to be @ 3-4dB too high. Try going to the Speaker Level Calibration page and lowering the main gain at the top of the page by 3 or 4dB for your next set of measurements. Copy this file to a new filename and use this new file to run the new measurements. You can use the original file to compare the plots.


Try upping your MAX-EQ to 17KHz to address your left/right main dips @ 15KHz (also seen in your center, and left/right surrounds). Currently, your fronts are +/-5dB in-room response with out correction from 50Hz upwards with the exception of the 15KHz dip. +/-5dB natural/uncorrected in-room response is pretty good.


Your left and right surrounds also have the 15KHz dip that might benefit from 17KHz MAX-EQ change.


What kind of rear speakers do you have and where are they mounted? Your left and right rears have some significant high end roll off starting @ 2KHz. Make sure nothing is in between your rear tweeters and the mics (curtains, high back sofas, bookcases, etc.). High frequencies can be masked very easily by obstructions. Also, make sure the rear speakers are connected properly (if there are multiple connections - e.g. biamp or triamp connectors). From 2KHz down, you are +/-5dB to @ 30Hz.


Your Center has some significant swings (@ 20dB) and also shows the dip at 15KHz. The 17KHz MAX-EQ may help the 15KHz, but something else needs to be done to tame the peak the from [100-250Hz] and raise the dip at [800Hz - 1.8KHz]. Some repositioning may help if your venue and significant other allows










HTH,

Tim


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17794331
> 
> 
> Try upping your MAX-EQ to 17KHz to address your left/right main dips @ 15KHz (also seen in your center, and left/right surrounds). Currently, your fronts are +/-5dB in-room response with out correction from 50Hz upwards with the exception of the 15KHz dip. +/-5dB natural/uncorrected in-room response is pretty good.



Just a note of caution. Those dips at 14 kHz might be in the mic. If so, and you "correct" them, the speakers will actually be outputting a peak at that freq. [/personalconspiracytheory]










Won't hurt, so see how it sounds.


Would be cool if someone with REW (and measured results with dips such as we're discussing) would run some tests to confirm. As I don't own an Anthem I cannot do so. Sorry. I guess if one has ARC why would one buy a mic for REW, so I see why they don't often intersect.


----------



## Brian Stone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17794331
> 
> 
> Hi Brian,
> 
> 
> Take my comments with a grain of salt because I am a newbie here.
> 
> 
> From reading prior reviews, the room solution should be targeted/centered at 75dB. Your solutions look to be @ 3-4dB too high. Try going to the Speaker Level Calibration page and lowering the main gain at the top of the page by 3 or 4dB for your next set of measurements. Copy this file to a new filename and use this new file to run the new measurements. You can use the original file to compare the plots.
> 
> 
> Try upping your MAX-EQ to 17KHz to address your left/right main dips @ 15KHz (also seen in your center, and left/right surrounds). Currently, your fronts are +/-5dB in-room response with out correction from 50Hz upwards with the exception of the 15KHz dip. +/-5dB natural/uncorrected in-room response is pretty good.
> 
> 
> Your left and right surrounds also have the 15KHz dip that might benefit from 17KHz MAX-EQ change.
> 
> 
> What kind of rear speakers do you have and where are they mounted? Your left and right rears have some significant high end roll off starting @ 2KHz. Make sure nothing is in between your rear tweeters and the mics (curtains, high back sofas, bookcases, etc.). High frequencies can be masked very easily by obstructions. Also, make sure the rear speakers are connected properly (if there are multiple connections - e.g. biamp or triamp connectors). From 2KHz down, you are +/-5dB to @ 30Hz.
> 
> 
> Your Center has some significant swings (@ 20dB) and also shows the dip at 15KHz. The 17KHz MAX-EQ may help the 15KHz, but something else needs to be done to tame the peak the from [100-250Hz] and raise the dip at [800Hz - 1.8KHz]. Some repositioning may help if your venue and significant other allows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HTH,
> 
> Tim



Hi Tim -


Thanks for the suggestions. I lowered the main gain 3db and upped the MAX-EQ to 17KHz and re-ran the measurements. I changed the mic positions a bit in the seating area so that they were right behind and slightly above the couch to see if the mic picked up the rears better. Looking at the results, it didn't. It looks like the solution has come down to around 75db and Arc is better correcting for the dips you mentioned. The rears are still falling off a cliff.


I have a pair of Paradigm Studio 20's in the rear sitting on top of a bookshelf. They're sitting about 2-3 feet above the listening area, so maybe that's why they aren't being picked up correctly. I might be able to move them down by squeezing them into the bookshelves. The center is on the bottom shelf of my TV stand under the TV and unfortunately, can't be moved.


I've attached the new Arc charts.


Brian


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17790741
> 
> 
> I am new to the ARC software, but have used DEQX software. The ARC software seems to hide a lot of the detail and configurations compared to the DEQX software.



My recommendation is to start fresh and try to not map your DEQX experience to ARC. The approaches are different so it will be frustrating trying to understand one based on the other.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17790741
> 
> 
> 1) I reduced the Room Gain from 3.9 to 3.0 for movie and 2.0 for Music. I assumed from previous posts that this would release some processing power back to the unit to allow for a wider MAX EQ freq. I was also looking for a flatter, less colored curve for music. My 2 channel room using DEQX is from 11Hz - 20KHz +/- 3dB (including the summed sub/main XO integration).



Reducing Max EQ allows more DSP power for correction, but I don't thing it is exactly the same principle for adjusting Room Gain - which is more of a linear function AFAIK as opposed to a processor-intensive function.


I recommend against arbitrarily reducing Room Gain until you have a solid baseline against which to compare.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17790741
> 
> 
> 4) I raised the 5KHz MAX EQ to 17KHz to address the 15KHz dip. I read this from prior reviews and suggestions of other members prior plots. Does increasing this value introduce phase problems?



Don't know the answer to the phase question, but based on my own and other's experiences with the ~15 kHz dip, I would recommend trying a LOWER Max EQ frequency. It's not clear that the 15 k dip is a true problem - might be a measurement limitation of some sort. Regardless, some of us have gotten MUCH smoother high freq response by forcing ARC to avoid correction in that range. (I set my target to 12 kHz and it sounds far better.)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17790741
> 
> 
> FWIW, I am using 3 broadband Realtraps up front and an Owens Corning broadband trap in the back. If you look at the link on my signature (Work In Progress), you can see some pictures of the front sound stage before I replaced my DefTech CLR3000's L/R with my Magnepan 3.6's.



It looks like your worst issues are with peaks and nulls below 300 Hz, so maybe broadband traps aren't needed as much as bass traps?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/17794618
> 
> 
> Hi Tim -
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. I lowered the main gain 3db and upped the MAX-EQ to 17KHz and re-ran the measurements. I changed the mic positions a bit in the seating area so that they were right behind and slightly above the couch to see if the mic picked up the rears better. Looking at the results, it didn't. It looks like the solution has come down to around 75db and Arc is better correcting for the dips you mentioned. The rears are still falling off a cliff.
> 
> 
> I have a pair of Paradigm Studio 20's in the rear sitting on top of a bookshelf. They're sitting about 2-3 feet above the listening area, so maybe that's why they aren't being picked up correctly. I might be able to move them down by squeezing them into the bookshelves. The center is on the bottom shelf of my TV stand under the TV and unfortunately, can't be moved.
> 
> 
> I've attached the new Arc charts.
> 
> 
> Brian



When you do measurements, make sure the mike is at sitting ear height and is pointing straight upwards.


Something is very odd with your rear speakers. It sure looks like a case of tweeter disconnection. Is there any sort of internal filter or switch that could take the tweeters out of the circuit?


On the 15 K dip, this has been noticed a lot with B&W speakers for some reason. Some of us who have this dip have gotten better results by cranking DOWN the Max EQ to keep ARC from trying to correct the dip. When I had it set to 20 K, the high end was excessively bright and tizzy. It sounded alive and clear at first, but wasn't good to listen to for any length of time. By reducing (to 12 K in my case) it sounds far smoother and well-integrated. You might try lowering Max EQ (you can just open up prior results and recalculate, then resave with a different filename. That way you only need to reupload to try a new Max EQ target setting).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/17794618
> 
> 
> Hi Tim -
> 
> I've attached the new Arc charts.
> 
> 
> Brian





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17794754
> 
> 
> Something is very odd with your rear speakers. It sure looks like a case of tweeter disconnection. Is there any sort of internal filter or switch that could take the tweeters out of the circuit?



I agree with Gordon - when you look at your REAR SPEAKER Curves

it looks like there is NO Tweeter.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/17794618
> 
> 
> Hi Tim -
> 
> 
> The rears are still falling off a cliff.
> 
> 
> I have a pair of Paradigm Studio 20's in the rear sitting on top of a bookshelf.
> 
> 
> Brian



Hi Brian,


I just looked at the specs of your rear speakers. The 2nd-order XO is @ 2KHz on your Studio 20's, exactly at the point of your roll off. Your plot looks like the normal roll off of your bass panels. This seems to be a funny coincidence. You might want to check to see if your tweeters are still working or not (no blow fuses, no blown tweeters, or not hooked up).


You could also try to measure them closer to your mic outside of the bookshelf to see if you are getting anything from your tweeters.


HTH,

Tim

http://www.paradigm.com/en/reference...-2-13.paradigm


----------



## Brian Stone

There's definitely something wrong with my rears. There are 2 sets of terminals. Plugging into the top terminals, I get only the tweeter and only the midrange if I plug into the bottom terminals.


Looks like I'm missing the jumper bar between the terminals.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/17795092
> 
> 
> There's definitely something wrong with my rears. There are 2 sets of terminals. Plugging into the top terminals, I get only the tweeter and only the midrange if I plug into the bottom terminals.
> 
> 
> Looks like I'm missing the jumper bar between the terminals.



That would do it. That is what I was referring to in my original post about biamp/triamp wiring configurations on some speakers. I have some DefTech CLR 3000's that have to sets of jumpers to tie all 3 drivers together using internal passive XOs.


MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOT MISSING AN EXTERNAL XO, ELSE YOU MAY BLOW YOUR TWEETERS hooking them up full range.


Sincerely,

Tim


----------



## rosewood1

_


I do not have ARC on my AVM 40 [yet], but have been having a similar problem with the rears, measured by the ear. There seems to be a lack of adjustability of the rear speakers in the processor with only a variability of 20 dB from min to max settings I can find. That is not enough to make up for my rears being up high and 12' behind the listening area [settings for rear listening placement are expecting them very close to the listener and the max setting away is >4ft]. My amp can put out 220 w per mono channel and is powering each of the 7 channels independently [Main1 RL, Main2 RL, Center, Rear RL], so it cannot be a lack of power of the amp. The cable runs are 50 ft of 10 ga wire- a circuitous, but necessary route.


Is there a way of boosting the channels more than are listed in the settings ADC/Audio Output menu? The volume adjustment buttons for each channel do not seem to do anything.


Thanks._


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17791508
> 
> 
> They should replace the serial cable with either USB or Ethernet. Serial cables have gone the way of the dinosaurs and floppy discs.
> 
> 
> Tim



No ****! Or at the very least include a tested and approved adaptor with the Anthem. This running around buying things to perform BASIC functions is ridiculous!


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/17795092
> 
> 
> There's definitely something wrong with my rears. There are 2 sets of terminals. Plugging into the top terminals, I get only the tweeter and only the midrange if I plug into the bottom terminals.
> 
> 
> Looks like I'm missing the jumper bar between the terminals.




Speaker wire will work just fine for the jumper bar is you can't find one...


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17794695
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like your worst issues are with peaks and nulls below 300 Hz, so maybe broadband traps aren't needed as much as bass traps?



GDC,


Thanks for the feedback. Your feedback had me lookup the data sheet on the MiniTraps (red line). I bought these before they had the beveled MonoTraps (blue line) which absorb much more and are better looking.


I removed the 2 L/R front corner broadband MiniTraps (which are also bass traps) and remeasured. The dip @ 150Hz when down another 7dB on both front channels without the MiniTraps installed, so they are definitely helping the problem area. The MondoTraps absorb @ 30% more at my problem area of 150Hz.


I have a few more things to try to see if I can address this area.


Sincerely,

Tim

*Absorption comparison Chart:*









*Data Sheet Page:*
http://www.realtraps.com/data.htm


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/17795092
> 
> 
> There's definitely something wrong with my rears. There are 2 sets of terminals. Plugging into the top terminals, I get only the tweeter and only the midrange if I plug into the bottom terminals.
> 
> 
> Looks like I'm missing the jumper bar between the terminals.



I think you have found the problem - *MISSING JUMPER*










Don't feel bad - when I first USED ARC - it showed my FRONT

SPEAKERS had a PROBLEM [not missing jumpers] actually broken.

I needed to rebuild them. They were OLD and had a CRACKED

Woofer. ARC pointed it out like a Lightning Bolt.


----------



## Brian Stone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17795792
> 
> 
> I think you have found the problem - *MISSING JUMPER*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't feel bad - when I first USED ARC - it showed my FRONT
> 
> SPEAKERS had a PROBLEM [not missing jumpers] actually broken.
> 
> I needed to rebuild them. They were OLD and had a CRACKED
> 
> Woofer. ARC pointed it out like a Lightning Bolt.



Yeah...missing jumper is definitely better than several other alternatives I can think of. I fixed it with speaker wire and confirmed the speakers are working properly now. Will re-run ARC tomorrow and post the results. Thanks to all who helped.


Brian


----------



## Warpdrv

that sure is a super nice thing about ARC, it really helps in finding problem areas and getting things dialed in properly with speaker response and aiming / placement...


----------



## Michael_V

Okay, I just ran FLASH ERASER, which went swimmingly. Tried to run the AVM50v firmware installer afterward and I'M GETTING THE SAME ERROR I GOT BEFORE: "OKI FLASH will not enter block un-protected state."


Honestly, I love how Anthems sound, but COME ON, GUYS! This is ridiculous! Bob and Nick both told me to get the "approved" Keyspan adaptor, so I did (you need to include this with the purchase, by the way). Both told me to run Flash Eraser, so I did. Still not working!


Why in the world is this process so convoluted? I bought my dad an Onkyo receiver for Christmas and, while it's certainly no Anthem, I had it unpacked, plugged in, had run Audessy, and was watching a movie within the space of an hour. I've been trying to get ARC running on my Anthem since the beginning of November!


Can I get some help here or not?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17796334
> 
> 
> Okay, I just ran FLASH ERASER, which went swimmingly. Tried to run the AVM50v firmware installer afterward and I'M GETTING THE SAME ERROR I GOT BEFORE: "OKI FLASH will not enter block un-protected state."
> 
> 
> Honestly, I love how Anthems sound, but COME ON, GUYS! This is ridiculous! Bob and Nick both told me to get the "approved" Keyspan adaptor, so I did (you need to include this with the purchase, by the way). Both told me to run Flash Eraser, so I did. Still not working!
> 
> 
> Why in the world is this process so convoluted? I bought my dad an Onkyo receiver for Christmas and, while it's certainly no Anthem, I had it unpacked, plugged in, had run Audessy, and was watching a movie within the space of an hour. I've been trying to get ARC running on my Anthem since the beginning of November!
> 
> 
> Can I get some help here or not?



Michael,

I appreciate your frustration. The steps you've taken should have resolved your problem. It sounds to me like you may have a hardware failure on the main board of your AVM 50v which is preventing it from accepting the firmware install. This is not certain yet. There are likely still some steps that can be taken to make sure the problem is not in your Windows computer and serial connection, but the fastest way to figure this out will be to get on the phone with Anthem tech support tomorrow and let them walk you through the process.


A hardware failure of this type is unusual, but it can happen.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rosewood1* /forum/post/17795180
> 
> _
> 
> 
> I do not have ARC on my AVM 40 [yet], but have been having a similar problem with the rears, measured by the ear. There seems to be a lack of adjustability of the rear speakers in the processor with only a variability of 20 dB from min to max settings I can find. That is not enough to make up for my rears being up high and 12' behind the listening area [settings for rear listening placement are expecting them very close to the listener and the max setting away is >4ft]. My amp can put out 220 w per mono channel and is powering each of the 7 channels independently [Main1 RL, Main2 RL, Center, Rear RL], so it cannot be a lack of power of the amp. The cable runs are 50 ft of 10 ga wire- a circuitous, but necessary route.
> 
> 
> Is there a way of boosting the channels more than are listed in the settings ADC/Audio Output menu? The volume adjustment buttons for each channel do not seem to do anything.
> 
> 
> Thanks._


_

Urh, you are in the wrong menu? Speaker levels are set in Setup > Level Calibration.


And the ">4ft" setting you are referring to is the separation BETWEEN the two rear speakers -- not their distance from the listener.


I suspect you may have gotten confused about the Setup menu settings. You might want to revisit the manual, and perhaps even start over (i.e., Reset Factory Defaults, and begin again from scratch).


It is VERY unusual for anyone to have a speaker setup that can not be brought into level balance using the range available in the Setup menu.

--Bob_


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/17794618
> 
> 
> Hi Tim -
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. I lowered the main gain 3db and upped the MAX-EQ to 17KHz and re-ran the measurements. I changed the mic positions a bit in the seating area so that they were right behind and slightly above the couch to see if the mic picked up the rears better. Looking at the results, it didn't. It looks like the solution has come down to around 75db and Arc is better correcting for the dips you mentioned. The rears are still falling off a cliff.
> 
> 
> I have a pair of Paradigm Studio 20's in the rear sitting on top of a bookshelf. They're sitting about 2-3 feet above the listening area, so maybe that's why they aren't being picked up correctly. I might be able to move them down by squeezing them into the bookshelves. The center is on the bottom shelf of my TV stand under the TV and unfortunately, can't be moved.
> 
> 
> I've attached the new Arc charts.
> 
> 
> Brian



As you've already discovered, your Rear speakers are not wired correctly.


I'm also concerned about your Center speaker which is showing a 20dB swing between 200Hz and 700Hz. I suspect you may have blown out the mid-range in Center so that you only have the woofer and tweeter carrying the load. To test that, play some stereo content using Stereo All audio mode and put your ear up close to each driver to see if it is firing.


Your sub looks like it probably has an internal 80Hz crossover still active. Disable that if you can, or crank it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. At the low end your sub is good only down to about 35Hz. It may be your sub's low end response only goes down that far (not unusual for subs used for music), but check to make sure you don't have a subsonic filter engaged in the sub which is forcing it to roll off below 35Hz. This could be identified as a "boundary gain compensation" setting -- i.e., for when you have the sub close to a wall.

--Bob


----------



## Brian Stone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17796636
> 
> 
> As you've already discovered, your Rear speakers are not wired correctly.
> 
> 
> I'm also concerned about your Center speaker which is showing a 20dB swing between 200Hz and 700Hz. I suspect you may have blown out the mid-range in Center so that you only have the woofer and tweeter carrying the load. To test that, play some stereo content using Stereo All audio mode and put your ear up close to each driver to see if it is firing.
> 
> 
> Your sub looks like it probably has an internal 80Hz crossover still active. Disable that if you can, or crank it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. At the low end your sub is good only down to about 35Hz. It may be your sub's low end response only goes down that far (not unusual for subs used for music), but check to make sure you don't have a subsonic filter engaged in the sub which is forcing it to roll off below 35Hz. This could be identified as a "boundary gain compensation" setting -- i.e., for when you have the sub close to a wall.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob -


Thanks for the input. You're right about the Sub crossover. I don't think there's a way to disable it, so I've cranked it all the way up. There's also a knob for Sub/Sat Phase Alignment that ranges between 0 and 180 degrees. What should I set that to?


I did what you suggested to check the center speaker. As far as I can tell, all three drivers are firing. That speaker is under the TV, practically on the floor. Not sure if that has anything to do with the results I'm seeing.


Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/17796765
> 
> 
> Hi Bob -
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. You're right about the Sub crossover. I don't think there's a way to disable it, so I've cranked it all the way up. There's also a knob for Sub/Sat Phase Alignment that ranges between 0 and 180 degrees. What should I set that to?
> 
> 
> I did what you suggested to check the center speaker. As far as I can tell, all three drivers are firing. That speaker is under the TV, practically on the floor. Not sure if that has anything to do with the results I'm seeing.
> 
> 
> Brian



What ARC is Measuring for the Center could easily be due to its positioning. It's just showing an unusually large swing. If all the drivers are firing then so be it. ARC is correcting it anyway. Check to see if it has any placement adjustment settings that you might use to reduce that swing.


Subwoofer Phase/Polarity is adjusted so that the sub and the main speakers don't cancel each other out through the crossover frequencies where they are both playing the same content at the same time. I.e., if the sub cone is moving back while the main cones are moving forward then the two wave fronts will tend to cancel out because they are out of phase with each other.


Check out the Set Up section of post links in the first post of this thread for some guidance on how to set subwoofer Polarity/Phase correctly. If you only have one subwoofer, typically you will leave its internal control at its default setting (e.g., 0 degrees) and do all the adjustment using the Polarity/Phase controls in the Anthem.


Some subwoofers have a THX setting or the like (perhaps a separate set of input jacks) which force an 80Hz crossover regardless of what you have the knob set to. Check for that to see if you can bypass or adjust the sub's internal crossover that way.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Well it finally happened. Everything is screwed up since playing around with ARC on my D2. I went into the OSD and noticed that things I didn't mess with were changed--ex video output was 1920x1080p/24 which I've been using and it was changed to another setting. All of my speaker settings/calibrations were all off also.


I was trying ARC at different speaker settings, microphone placements, etc. I was saving the graphs and settings in different files and after the 3rd one I could no longer see the OSD except on the D2's front panel. I tried running ARC again and I set the factory defaults and neither of these did any good.

How can this be fixed?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/17793900
> 
> 
> I am asking for some basic help. I am seriously looking at the Anthem AVM 50v but am somewhat confused and have several questions. Any help will be greatly appreciated. This is a long thread to go through but I am on my way.
> 
> 
> I want the unit to handle both music and movies. Music is from a Transporter dealing with FLAC files and played out via Toslink to the AVP. I have many tracks of DTS music in my library and many stereo tracks.
> 
> 
> I also will use the AVP for zone 2 music only and that will be analog stereo (XM radio, Slim Receiver).
> 
> 
> Video comes from STB's (can be HDMI or cpmponent but am favoring component); DVD changers, PS2 and Wii over Component with Coaxial digital audio; A PC putting out 1080p over HDMI; and VuDu at 1080p over HDMI.
> 
> 
> My current system has a DVDO Edge and a Cary Cinema11A. I am very dissatisfied with the current system due to all sorts of extraneous loud pops and clicks, loss of audio (cinema 11A only when pausing music streams), audio lock on delays, HDCP caused switching delays. I feel most of the problems are due to DVDO/Cinema 11A issues. DVDO is working very hard top resolve these but Cary Audio has not got a clue and expresses no interest in fixing issues.
> 
> 
> I realize that I will have to live with things like HDCP switching delays until the new High speed chips come out that hold settings for sources so a source does not see a disconnect as things are switched. BUT I no longer want to live with loud pops and clicks, motorboating, and loss of audio for no reason.
> 
> 
> Will some one please comment on these concerns?
> 
> 
> Also I am having a duece of a time finding dealers. The Anthem site just points me to one (I am in central FL) and I would prefer several to choose from (Ideally one that is out of state and ships).
> 
> 
> Lastly I am not sure anymore what the MSRP on the AVM 50v is and what are typical dealer discounts. I would like to spend under $5000.



On your last questions first:


My experience with getting discounts from Anthem dealers has not been good. Of course if you are buying a lot of stuff from the dealer he has more room to maneuver to carve out a discount for you.


Anthem gives their dealers area protection. That means, if there is an authorized dealer in your area, then other authorized dealers are not supposed to ship into your area. There are two ways to deal with this. On the Anthem site you will find separate dealer locators for normal dealers and for "custom installers". Typically the custom installers don't have show rooms and are supposed to sell the Anthem in conjunction with other services (e.g., installation). But in some areas, your local custom installer may be easier to deal with than your local store front Anthem dealer.


Also if you are near a state line, try using the Anthem dealer locator for zip codes across the state line. You may find a dealer close enough that you can drive there. If you go to the dealer and get the product from him, then that doesn't violate his agreement with Anthem.


----------------------------------------------


The AVM 50v and Statement D2v still have more audio bugs in them than I would like to see at this point, but Anthem seems to be making good progress eliminating them. There's a major release about to come out which adds Dolby Volume to these two processors, and I expect a number of audio improvements will be bundled in with that.


It is also the nature of HDMI connections that often problems are due to firmware issues in the source devices.


The bottom line is I think you'll be OK, but anyone who thinks they can guarantee any given modern audio/video processor will have no issues at all is deluded.


One thing you've got going for you with Anthem is that their tech support is as good as it gets.


-------------------------------------------


I see no problems in the list of sources or your intended use of the AVM 50v.

--Bob


----------



## bgrounds

I just purchased the oppo and I'm looking for the proper settings to use with my d2... I'm sure it's on here but I can't find it. I'll be using this as my only player to play both standard and br dvd's. I want the Anthem to do the upscaling (i believe it's better than the oppo and correct me if this is incorrect). Thanks in advance...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17797023
> 
> 
> Well it finally happened. Everything is screwed up since playing around with ARC on my D2. I went into the OSD and noticed that things I didn't mess with were changed--ex video output was 1920x1080p/24 which I've been using and it was changed to another setting. All of my speaker settings/calibrations were all off also.
> 
> 
> I was trying ARC at different speaker settings, microphone placements, etc. I was saving the graphs and settings in different files and after the 3rd one I could no longer see the OSD except on the D2's front panel. I tried running ARC again and I set the factory defaults and neither of these did any good.
> 
> How can this be fixed?



If you have a recent set of settings saved in Saved User or Installer Settings then do this:


1) Power up the Anthem and Reload Factory Defaults.


2) Power off the Anthem and also cycle its rear panel power switch Off for about 10 seconds to insure everything is getting a fresh start.


3) Power up the Anthem and Reload Saved User or Installer Settings. If you don't have video you can do this using the Front Panel display. The pictures of the menus in the manual will help you navigate if you are not already familiar with how the Setup menus are laid out.


4) Now open up your most recent, good ARC results file in ARC's "Advanced" mode (where the charts are displayed) and just redo the Upload. No need to re-Measure or re-Calculate.


5) When the ARC Upload finishes, go back into Setup and look around to check that your Setup menu settings are as you expect them to be.


6) When you are comfortable everything is OK again, Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the values ARC has just Uploaded.


This sort of failure in the D2 -- i.e., where an ARC Upload messes up other values in the Setup menu -- is pretty rare but it does happen in the V1.33 firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/17797086
> 
> 
> I just purchased the oppo and I'm looking for the proper settings to use with my d2... I'm sure it's on here but I can't find it. I'll be using this as my only player to play both standard and br dvd's. I want the Anthem to do the upscaling (i believe it's better than the oppo and correct me if this is incorrect). Thanks in advance...



My recommendation, based on my own tests, is that you let the Oppo do the upscaling. It does an excellent job, and setting it that way allows you to use some convenience features in the Oppo.


So in the Oppo (for the original D2): Explicit 1080p, Aspect Ration "16:9 Wide/Auto", HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4, Deep Color OFF (dithered), 1080p/24 Auto, DVD/24 OFF, TV System Multi, HDMI CEC OFF, Secondary Audio OFF, HDMI Audio LPCM, SACD Output PCM, Dynamic Range Control OFF.


Other processing settings (e.g, picture controls) can be left at factory defaults. Convenience settings (e.g., front panel dimmer) can be set as you wish. If you are using HDMI connection only (recommended) some settings, such as Speaker Configuration will simply be ignored.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/17794052
> 
> 
> Not sure why my graphs were not showing measured audio from approximately 7.5K and up but another round of sweeps have up to 20K.
> 
> 
> I modified my parameters dropping all speakers Response Cutoffs by 10-20 but really could not hear much difference in EQ on, EQ off testing.
> 
> 
> Also increased Max EQ to 20K and lowered Music Config Room Gain 1 dB verus Movie.
> 
> 
> Been testing differnent music cd's to see if I can hear the difference but I think my ears are not sensitive enough or I am not playing the right music!
> 
> 
> If folks could take a look at the charts and any suggestions would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Bob



There's way too much residual error in LF and C I think. I'm not quite sure why, since it doesn't look like ARC is being expected to do all that much correction. But something about your results is giving ARC fits, and the net result is that I don't think you can get away with pushing Max EQ Frequency up to 20KHz as you have done.


I'm not sure from what you posted whether these charts represent ARC's choice of values or are what you got after you modified the values. If these cutoffs are modified, I'd like to see the charts that show the original values.


Your biggest problem is C (with LF a close second). The wobbles left in the green Calculated curve in C suggest you are going to have a problem with dialogue.


I suggest you back off Max EQ Frequency to 5KHz and see if the frequencies below that for LF and C sort themselves out. If so, you can start raising it again to try and find a compromise setting that gives you more high frequency correction without allowing the residual errors to creep back in below that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlfeatherston* /forum/post/17792632
> 
> 
> Thanks, Tom. I think I finally figured it out. But, there's still something odd. Short story is:
> 
> 
> AVM-50 is garbling the audio horribly on 2-channel, hi-res LPCM inputs IF AND ONLY IF I'm in the Dolby PLIIx-Music mode.
> 
> 
> Multi-channel LPCM, hi-res is fine even in PLIIx-Music. 2-channel low res, fine. 2-channel, hi-res is fine in any other mode - stereo, PLIIX-Movie, game, AL-Music, and so on.
> 
> 
> So....I guess I feel better because I can listen to those tracks now. In regular stereo, or AL-Music if I want that. But I'm more than a bit perplexed as to why PLIIx-Music is doing that. It clearly can handle the bandwidth, since multi-channel works.
> 
> 
> Can you try those same discs in that mode, see if you're getting the same result?
> 
> 
> How I found it was a pretty convoluted process. Ruling out everything else, I decided to try different HDMI cables and ports and see if anything worked. Aha - first try, different cable, plugged into HDMI-3 instead of 1, with a different source input....it worked. So, I tried different combinations of cables/ports. The only thing that worked was that particular source, regardless of which cable or HDMI port I used. I just accidentally stumbled on the difference (finally) that that source had a different mode preset (STEREO) for 2-ch input.



Try this first. Go into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings


2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video at this point you can continue using the Front Panel display.


3) Reload Saved User Settings


Now see if your audio problem still exists. If so you may have had something bizarre in the "temporary" audio settings you can set with the remote (e.g., Manual section 4.6). These settings are remembered separately for different combos of source and input type. They are not saved in User/Installer Settings so the procedure above clears ALL the temporary settings all at once.


----------------------------------------------


If that doesn't fix it, then:


1) Reload Factory Defaults


2) Manually enter the bare minimum Setup menu settings needed to access that source and replicate the problem.


If the problem doesn't exist starting from Default settings this way, then your settings might be corrupted. (The fix for that would be to re-enter all your settings manually starting afresh from Factory Defaults.)


----------------------------------------------


If that doesn't fix the problem, give Anthem tech support a call with the details. They may ask you to re-install the unit firmware on top of itself.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks for the fast responce Bob. I think I've done just about all that you reccomenmded and I deleted all the ARC files that I had saved. I did try uploading but not in the advanced section. I tried to do a fresh ARC calibration and it found the D2 w/ serial # but the mic had an error code and wouldn't do a calibration. I'm not sure if it restored the factory defaults. I'll try again tomorrow and let you know how I did.

Are you back for awhile now? I know you said you'd be gone for an emergency. I hope everything worked out ok.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17789986
> 
> 
> Sorry about that. I was trying to leverage the compression of zip and only require opening 1 document to review all of the higher resolution results as opposed to opening 4 separate windows of lower resolution plots.
> 
> 
> Here is a repost.
> 
> *Speakers Placement:*
> Center channel ontop of entertainment cabinet, 1 foot from ceiling.
> Dipole Surrounds and dipole rears mounted on the wall against the ceiling.
> Sub in front right corner.
> 
> *Observed Issues:*
> Dip in L/R mains between [100Hz-200Hz] (maybe able to address by using active XO versus passive XO).
> Peak in L/R surrounds @ 150Hz
> Dip in L/R rears @ 100Hz
> 
> *Connections:*
> 2 HDMI 1.3 inputs
> 1 HDMI 1.3 output
> 8 XLR outputs



The only significant problem you have is in LF/RF (70-275Hz). The residual errors in the other speakers are not really a problem.


Now that hole you've got in LF/RF looks too broad to me to be a room issue (e.g., speaker positioning), so my first inclination would be to think you've got something setup wrong on that pair of speakers.


Are these simple speakers without satellite subs or internal crossover controls? Do they have bass ports that can be opened/closed? Do you have any connecting wires between the speakers and the sub? Do you have any other electronics in the path other than the Anthem and the speakers? My guess is something is not set right in that pair of speakers.


Your red Measured curves don't really seem to support a Room Gain as high as 3.0. I would have expected ARC to use a small Room Gain with these measurements.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17797229
> 
> 
> Thanks for the fast responce Bob. I think I've done just about all that you reccomenmded and I deleted all the ARC files that I had saved. I did try uploading but not in the advanced section. I tried to do a fresh ARC calibration and it found the D2 w/ serial # but the mic had an error code and wouldn't do a calibration. I'm not sure if it restored the factory defaults. I'll try again tomorrow and let you know how I did.
> 
> Are you back for awhile now? I know you said you'd be gone for an emergency. I hope everything worked out ok.



My time is still limited.


Typically what happens if you get a screw up like this is that the ARC Upload causes the entire set of Setup settings to revert to Factory Defaults. Since that also messes up your Speaker Configuration, just trying to do a new ARC run may not work -- and of course if it DOES work it won't restore the other Setup menu settings that are still wrong.


You fix all that using the simple procedure I described above (that is, simple if you have a good set of Saved User or Installer Settings to work from).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17789416
> 
> 
> Is it possible to measure the room with the ARC software's "calculated values" applied (after the upload has been completed) in order to validate the "real in-room" plots compared to the "calculated in-room" plots?



No. Each ARC Measurement pass will start off by initializing the system to have no correction so that it is hearing the raw, natural output of each speaker.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murrayb* /forum/post/17783516
> 
> 
> Attached (hopefully) are my latest Arc results. On the 3 fronts, I get a drop off at around 15k and the two surrounds at about 12k. For the centre (which sits under the plasma), a few little flutters. Not sure what causes it. Don't have much flexibility on speaker location (at the front of our living room) but any suggestions would be appreciated. Despite the dips and flutters, it sounds very good.



My only real concern is that your LS/RS speakers have no bass output. Check that they are wired correctly so their woofers are firing. They may also have bass ports that you can open. Your sub is good high enough up to fill in for them, so this is not too nasty, but if you can get some bass out of them you'll have a better timbre match for sounds that pan around the room.


It also looks like your sub might have a subsonic filter turned on which is causing it do discard bass below 25Hz. Check to see if you can disable that.


Raising the Max EQ Frequency Target above the default 5Khz will help with the modest dips you have around 12KHz. You can do that as a re-Calculation and re-Upload (no need to re-Measure).


And next time you do a Measurement, start off by lowering Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level about 10dB below whatever it is at now. This should get the basic volume level of your ARC solution down closer to 75dB.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jarac* /forum/post/17781340
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I am considering getting a used D2 - I was wondering if you can remove the sides so the unit goes from 19 1/4 to 17 1/4 so it can fit my tv stand area.
> 
> 
> currently bidding on the item... thanks in advance



Yes, I believe the "wing" side handles on the front plate can be removed by opening up the chassis and unscrewing them from the inside. What's left is just the rectangular chassis with the smaller width, and possibly an exposed detent area on the front panel where they attached.


However, if the space in your stand has solid walls be aware that the unit needs side ventilation -- particularly on the right side as you face the unit -- as well as space above to dissipate heat. Failing that you may need to provide an external exhaust fan to get the heat out.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17776178
> 
> 
> I have my subs (Martin Logan Descents) integrated into my mains (Magnepan 3.6's) using and active XO to control the points and slopes of both the mains low rolloff and the sub's top end.
> 
> 
> Is ARC smart enough to use its room correction software on these coupled "LARGE" speakers when it listens to the front left and right to treat them as a single left and rights? One would think the LFE would go to the LARGE speakers if no subs are configured. I am looking for better music coupling than I am for crash/boom/bang.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim



To use "satellite" subs like this you simply tell ARC you have NO SUBWOOFER. That will force it to treat LF/RF as "full range". During playback, LFE content will be sent to LF/RF. Bass from other speakers will also be steered to LF/RF in lieu of using a sub.


You use only the LF/RF speaker outputs from the Anthem. The subwoofer output from the Anthem is left unconnected.


If you have errors in your "active XO" setup, they will show up in your red Measured curves in ARC and ARC will attempt to correct them. If the errors are significant, you should correct your active XO settings and re-Measure for ARC.


Note that ARC will hear LF/RF and their attached satellite subs as single, combo speaker each. That means you need to adjust polarity and phase between the satellite sub and the attached main speaker, as well as relative volume between them, and of course the active crossover frequency itself, all before you do your ARC Measurements. Errors in phase in particular can lead to cancellation through the crossover frequencies (i.e., the range in which the active XO is operating). Any mistakes in the satellite sub setup will appear to ARC to be a poorly engineered LF or RF speaker. It has no way of knowing you are actually using a combo of main and sub to produce a "full range" LF or RF.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/17775380
> 
> 
> I know alot of you use the oppo BDP-83 BR player. There is new public beta firmware released 12/22/09, BDP-83-48-1218B. Its available on the Oppo BDP-83 webpage.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if any of the improvements are Anthem specific, but some of the options with subtitles and OSD positioning sound interesting.
> 
> 
> I bet Bob will be (is now) testing it out and will let us know about it soon.
> 
> Tom



It has a few known issues, but none particularly serious. The added stuff is pretty nifty!


Note that Oppo is now using a signature file to validate firmware installs. If you install this public beta firmware you will not be able to go back to older firmware that doesn't have this authorization file.


Oppo has added a signature file to the "official" firmware on their site so you CAN roll back to that version, but if you've already downloaded the "official" firmware for install from USB for example you will need to download a fresh copy from the Oppo site to get that before you can roll back.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17766249
> 
> 
> Great post Aram! I wasn't aware that v2.08a added deep color support which is good indeed. I'm still at the production release v2.08 after my 50v was bricked when I attempted several times to upgrade its FW. I had to ship it back to Anthem for a fix. Now, I'm scared a bit to uplaod version 2.08a, lest I repeat the same error again. But its good to know a worthewhile improvement has been made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if this new version has improved the PQ of BD players(such as Oppo) and displays with deep color support. Would this eliminate the color banding problems I often see in HD programs from cable broadcasts and some BD movies?



I believe the change here is that Deep Color connections are being made with some devices where they weren't being made before. But for most devices this will not be a change in that either the device is not Deep Color capable to begin with or the older firmware was already doing Deep Color.


Content from cable broadcasts will never be Deep Color. If you are seeing banding then you should recheck your video calibration settings. But understand that some banding in cable broadcasts will be due to damage the cable companies are doing to the signal in an effort to cram more channels into the cable (compression). There's no way to undo such damage, although there are often some steps you can take to conceal some of it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17775077
> 
> 
> 2.08a is D2v only.



Not true. There is a "test" V2.08a version for the AVM 50v as well as for the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17797290
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> Are these simple speakers without satellite subs or internal crossover controls (*Magnepan 3.6's, no controls unless you remove the external passive XO and replace it with an active XO*)?
> 
> Do they have bass ports that can be opened/closed (*No, Bipolar Planar Speakers*)?
> 
> Do you have any connecting wires between the speakers and the sub (*No, L/R hooked up directly to amp and sub to the D2V via XLR cable*)?
> 
> Do you have any other electronics in the path other than the Anthem and the speakers (*No, just XLR to amp, speaker cables to Speakers*)?
> 
> My guess is something is not set right in that pair of speakers.
> 
> 
> Your red Measured curves don't really seem to support a Room Gain as high as 3.0. I would have expected ARC to use a small Room Gain with these measurements.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


Thank you for taking the time to review my results and answer my questions. Please see my interlaced response in bold above.


The L/R front speakers are Magnepan 3.6's using their stock external XO between the (Lows) + (Mid/Tweeters).


Here are the points and slopes for the stock passive external XO. I removed the Sub from the the active XO and hooked the Sub directly up to D2V. The active XO was also removed once I received the D2V.

*Low Pass:* 18dB per octave at 250Hz.
*High Pass:* 6dB per octave at 200Hz.


With broadband traps in the corners, the dip at 150Hz is reduced by 7dB. I also have a Home Theater cabinet up front which maybe impacting the bipolar planar speaker's response with its reflections. If you look at my signature link, you will see my front sound stage before I replaced the L/R with the Planar speakers.


I will try moving one of them into the center of the room to see if the DIP still remains. If that doesn't show improvement, I will try switching the polarity of the bass panels to see that makes any difference. This will require special wiring.


Also, the original room gain values were 3.945749 which manually lowered to 3.0 for Movie and 2.0 for Music.


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17797623
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to review my results and answer my questions. Please see my interlaced response in bold above.
> 
> 
> The L/R front speakers are Magnepan 3.6's using their stock external XO between the (Lows) + (Mid/Tweeters).
> 
> 
> Here are the points and slopes for the stock passive external XO. I removed the Sub from the the active XO and hooked the Sub directly up to D2V. The active XO was also removed once I received the D2V.
> 
> *Low Pass:* 18dB per octave at 250Hz.
> *High Pass:* 6dB per octave at 200Hz.
> 
> 
> With broadband traps in the corners, the dip at 150Hz is reduced by 7dB. I also have a Home Theater cabinet up front which maybe impacting the bipolar planar speaker's response with its reflections. If you look at my signature link, you will see my front sound stage before I replaced the L/R with the Planar speakers.
> 
> 
> I will try moving one of them into the center of the room to see if the DIP still remains. If that doesn't show improvement, I will try switching the polarity of the bass panels to see that makes any difference. This will require special wiring.
> 
> 
> Also, the original room gain values were 3.945749 which manually lowered to 3.0 for Movie and 2.0 for Music.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim



From your room picture I suspect your placement of LF/RF tight into corners is more of an issue than your home theater cabinet.


My recollection is that Magnepan speakers are particularly sensitive to having enough air space behind them -- i.e., distance from the wall.


So doing a quick test with them out from the wall several feet is definitely a good idea. You can speed that up by telling ARC that Music is same as Movie and that you only have a 2.1 speaker setup (LF/RF/Sub). Do this in ARC "Advanced" mode because of course you don't want to Upload such a result. For quick and dirty speaker position checking like this you could even leave the mic in ARC mic position #1 for all 5 passes just to speed things up.


If they don't Measure better out from the wall, then my suspicion would be that the passive crossover is either wired incorrectly or not working properly. What you've got now looks like a classic example of crossover gap: The mid is being rolled off high (below 275Hz) but the woofer is being rolled off low (above 80Hz) leaving a gap in between.

--Bob


----------



## bgrounds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17797139
> 
> 
> My recommendation, based on my own tests, is that you let the Oppo do the upscaling. It does an excellent job, and setting it that way allows you to use some convenience features in the Oppo.
> 
> 
> So in the Oppo (for the original D2): Explicit 1080p, Aspect Ration "16:9 Wide/Auto", HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4, Deep Color OFF (dithered), 1080p/24 Auto, DVD/24 OFF, TV System Multi, HDMI CEC OFF, Secondary Audio OFF, HDMI Audio LPCM, SACD Output PCM, Dynamic Range Control OFF.
> 
> 
> Other processing settings (e.g, picture controls) can be left at factory defaults. Convenience settings (e.g., front panel dimmer) can be set as you wish. If you are using HDMI connection only (recommended) some settings, such as Speaker Configuration will simply be ignored.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the quick reply - do I need to or should I change anything on the d2 when changing to a br player?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bgrounds* /forum/post/17797671
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply - do I need to or should I change anything on the d2 when changing to a br player?



Not really. The Oppo's settings will send out "reference" video and audio signals (HDMI LPCM for audio). So there's nothing special you need to do in the D2 to accommodate it.


The only thing that gets tricky is if you have a display that is capable of accepting 1080p/24 video input and "doing the right thing" with it. In that case you will want to set up a Video Output configuration to use that with Blu-Ray movies. Note that you can send 1080p/24 from the Oppo to the D2 whether or not you have a display for that. The D2 will convert it to 1080p/60 unless you set up for 1080p/24 output.

--Bob


----------



## emailtim

Hi Bob,


My 3.6's are 4 foot from the back wall and 2 foot from the side walls. The MiniTraps are now sitting on the corner shelves where the old DefTec L/Rs were sitting. You are correct, planars like to breath.


I just did a quick test with the RatShack meter and a Stereophile Test CD and will confirm my results with ARC in the morning. I put the D2V in stereo and set the balance all the way to the left. The radio shack meter shows a significant drop at 100 Hz tone compared to the 200Hz tone. If I move the left speaker right to the center of the room keeping the same distance from the back wall, the 100Hz tone stays at the same level as the 200Hz tone. No more dip.


It looks like the gap behind the L/R speakers and between the cabinet and the wall is canceling out @ 125Hz. I will confirm this with ARC in the morning when the wife is gone.


Too bad ARC can't do quick 1 position x 1 speaker measurements.


Sincerely,

Tim


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17797776
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> My 3.6's are 4 foot from the back wall and 2 foot from the side walls. The MiniTraps are now sitting on the corner shelves where the old DefTec L/Rs were sitting. You are correct, planars like to breath.
> 
> 
> I just did a quick test with the RatShack meter and a Stereophile Test CD and will confirm my results with ARC in the morning. I put the D2V in stereo and set the balance all the way to the left. The radio shack meter shows a significant drop at 100 Hz tone compared to the 200Hz tone. If I move the left speaker right to the center of the room keeping the same distance from the back wall, the 100Hz tone stays at the same level as the 200Hz tone. No more dip.
> 
> 
> It looks like the gap behind the L/R speakers and between the cabinet and the wall is canceling out @ 125Hz. I will confirm this with ARC in the morning when the wife is gone.
> 
> 
> Too bad ARC can't do quick 1 position x 1 speaker measurements.
> 
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Tim



If that holds true, then a trap on the front wall in the space between the side wall and the theater cabinet may be just the ticket.

--Bob


----------



## davoe

I've read the last four months of this thread and since I don't yet have my D2v (arriving after the first), I don't have the benefit of having gone through the measurement process.


I think I read a few pages back that the same ARC measurement can be used for both movie and music configurations. You only have to change the targets and recalculate, then upload.


If this is true, does that mean that the ARC measurements only excite and measure one speaker at a time? And if that is correct, does that imply that speakers' outputs don't interact in the room or that ARC just ignores that interaction?


----------



## dmusoke

Got a naive question for y'all...


Why would one use bass traps and other room treatments if ARC can solve the peaking problems seen in the room response curves? Isn't ARC supposed to solve problems with real world imperfect rooms?


David


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17798123
> 
> 
> Got a naive question for y'all...
> 
> 
> Why would one use bass traps and other room treatments if ARC can solve the peaking problems seen in the room response curves? Isn't ARC supposed to solve problems with real world imperfect rooms?
> 
> 
> David



Because a good natural response curve is always much much better than a calculated one.


ARC can only do so much, and only average out based on the measurements of the mic positions. That's only so accurate, and it's far from perfect.


Also, the worse your room's natural response curve, the more likely you'll also have bigger variation from location to location, which is something ARC can only do so much about.


I find one of the best values of ARC is to help me fix the issues with my room's natural response, and try to minimize what ARC needs to do. In general this should be a goal of any audiophile.


----------



## robertrobert

Sorry if this has already been stated in the hundreds of pages on this thread. I have a chance to buy a D2 from a dealer and wondered how good the preamp was. I know this can be different for many folks depending on equipment/system so to give some perspective, I'm currently using an outdated Theta Casablanca I with standard dacs for home theater and the analog direct route of the Casablanca for my Naim CDX CD player. The Theta does a pretty decent job so looking to hopefully do better than this in the D2's preamp performance since the Casablanca I is from 1997/98.


Also any thoughts on whether $3,300 for the D2 is a fair price or not. It comes with the latest software along with the ARC mic and software. The dealer said it was installed in 2007 on a rack with light use.


Thanks,

Robert


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17797094
> 
> 
> If you have a recent set of settings saved in Saved User or Installer Settings then do this:
> 
> 
> 1) Power up the Anthem and Reload Factory Defaults.
> 
> 
> 2) Power off the Anthem and also cycle its rear panel power switch Off for about 10 seconds to insure everything is getting a fresh start.
> 
> 
> 3) Power up the Anthem and Reload Saved User or Installer Settings. If you don't have video you can do this using the Front Panel display. The pictures of the menus in the manual will help you navigate if you are not already familiar with how the Setup menus are laid out.
> 
> 
> 4) Now open up your most recent, good ARC results file in ARC's "Advanced" mode (where the charts are displayed) and just redo the Upload. No need to re-Measure or re-Calculate.
> 
> 
> 5) When the ARC Upload finishes, go back into Setup and look around to check that your Setup menu settings are as you expect them to be.
> 
> 
> 6) When you are comfortable everything is OK again, Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the values ARC has just Uploaded.
> 
> 
> This sort of failure in the D2 -- i.e., where an ARC Upload messes up other values in the Setup menu -- is pretty rare but it does happen in the V1.33 firmware.
> 
> --Bob



I guess I lucked out. I had erased all of my ARC settings but I went to the recycle bin and they were still there so I restored the one I wanted and followed your instructions and now everything works!!!

The only problem that I have now is that the OSD still won't show up except on the D2's front panel. I have a JVC RS20 front projector and I'm assuming that the signal went thru the hdmi out from the D2 to the proj. Any ideas on how to fix this.

Thanks again for your help.

Ken


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17798499
> 
> 
> Because a good natural response curve is always much much better than a calculated one.
> 
> 
> ARC can only do so much, and only average out based on the measurements of the mic positions. That's only so accurate, and it's far from perfect.
> 
> 
> Also, the worse your room's natural response curve, the more likely you'll also have bigger variation from location to location, which is something ARC can only do so much about.
> 
> 
> I find one of the best values of ARC is to help me fix the issues with my room's natural response, and try to minimize what ARC needs to do. In general this should be a goal of any audiophile.



Thanks AbMagFab ....your explanation makes lots of sense now. Fix your rooms response modes first (as much as you can), then let ARC put the finishing touches on the rest.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17799322
> 
> 
> Thanks AbMagFab ....your explanation makes lots of sense now. Fix your rooms response modes first (as much as you can), then let ARC put the finishing touches on the rest.



Don't forget that room treatments also help with ringing as well as reflective bounce... ARC can only do so much as stated, but slap echo can't be fixed.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17797947
> 
> 
> If that holds true, then a trap on the front wall in the space between the side wall and the theater cabinet may be just the ticket.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


ARC confirmed the RatShack readings. I also tried swapping the phase on one of the bass panels. This just created dip at 250Hz, so the phasing was correct with the passive external XOs.


I have some 6'x2' DIY Owens Corning 703 traps that I tried in the corners and these cleaned up most of the low end problems. With these panels in the corners, my entire bass panel frequency range flattened and lowered. ARC now produced a familiar plot similar to my 2-channel room (without cabinets inbetween) before I actively biamped. I may go back to horizontally biamping with an Active XO to raise the bass panels in line with the mid/tweeters so ARC doesn't have to.


Thanks for your help.


Sincerely,

Tim


----------



## Brian Stone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17796920
> 
> 
> What ARC is Measuring for the Center could easily be due to its positioning. It's just showing an unusually large swing. If all the drivers are firing then so be it. ARC is correcting it anyway. Check to see if it has any placement adjustment settings that you might use to reduce that swing.
> 
> 
> Subwoofer Phase/Polarity is adjusted so that the sub and the main speakers don't cancel each other out through the crossover frequencies where they are both playing the same content at the same time. I.e., if the sub cone is moving back while the main cones are moving forward then the two wave fronts will tend to cancel out because they are out of phase with each other.
> 
> 
> Check out the Set Up section of post links in the first post of this thread for some guidance on how to set subwoofer Polarity/Phase correctly. If you only have one subwoofer, typically you will leave its internal control at its default setting (e.g., 0 degrees) and do all the adjustment using the Polarity/Phase controls in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Some subwoofers have a THX setting or the like (perhaps a separate set of input jacks) which force an 80Hz crossover regardless of what you have the knob set to. Check for that to see if you can bypass or adjust the sub's internal crossover that way.
> 
> --Bob



Ran another set of measurements with the rears fixed and the subwoofer crossover changed. I also moved the Center speaker a bit so it wasn't so far under the stand. Would appreciate if people could take a look and offer any other suggestions for tweaks/changes.


Thanks.


Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/17800723
> 
> 
> Ran another set of measurements with the rears fixed and the subwoofer crossover changed. I also moved the Center speaker a bit so it wasn't so far under the stand. Would appreciate if people could take a look and offer any other suggestions for tweaks/changes.
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Brian



Brian, you need to repost your charts. The captures you posted don't show the Calculated results. After you make your change in the Targets window and accept that change (which dismisses the Targets window), just click on the Calculate button to get the new calculated results.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17776988
> 
> 
> Hey Tim, I personally would suggest that you run your Subs as Subs out of the LFE channel and not have them coupled as parts of your mains, a proper xover setup should have your mains blending with your subs very smoothly. ARC will also aid in the EQing of your Freq response throughout the handover. I have never attempted to integrate as you are suggesting here.
> 
> ...



I fully agree. I do not have multi subs like Warpdrv does so I was able to get a decent integration by ear and then let ARC do the rest. I run the sub directly from the D2 (via LFE output). Since Tim is using Mg 3.6, I would like to suggest that he also pay attention to the location of the listening seat. I also own magnepans and I recently optimized the listening seat BEFORE running ARC. The difference was dramatic. The less work that ARC has to do, the better you will be.


----------



## Brian Stone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17800981
> 
> 
> Brian, you need to repost your charts. The captures you posted don't show the Calculated results. After you make your change in the Targets window and accept that change (which dismisses the Targets window), just click on the Calculate button to get the new calculated results.
> 
> --Bob



Crap...sorry about that. These should be correct.


Brian


----------



## robertrobert




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robertrobert* /forum/post/17798655
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has already been stated in the hundreds of pages on this thread. I have a chance to buy a D2 from a dealer and wondered how good the preamp was. I know this can be different for many folks depending on equipment/system so to give some perspective, I'm currently using an outdated Theta Casablanca I with standard dacs for home theater and the analog direct route of the Casablanca for my Naim CDX CD player. The Theta does a pretty decent job so looking to hopefully do better than this in the D2's preamp performance since the Casablanca I is from 1997/98.
> 
> 
> Also any thoughts on whether $3,300 for the D2 is a fair price or not. It comes with the latest software along with the ARC mic and software. The dealer said it was installed in 2007 on a rack with light use.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Robert




No feedback yet from all you Anthem D2 owners. I would really appreciate hearing back from some of you regarding the preamp performance nd whether the demo dealer price on the D2 is a good deal or not. I searched through many pages with some saying the preamp section was very good while others have bought separate preamps. I'm sure it all depends on the equipment. If it helps, I using Aerial Acoustic 7 speakers (not as revealing as 10T's but still quite good and very dynamic) driven by a very large McCormack DNA-2 Deluxe amp (600w RMS into 4 ohms).


Thanks,

Robert


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robertrobert* /forum/post/17801755
> 
> 
> No feedback yet from all you Anthem D2 owners. I would really appreciate hearing back from some of you regarding the preamp performance nd whether the demo dealer price on the D2 is a good deal or not. I searched through many pages with some saying the preamp section was very good while others have bought separate preamps. I'm sure it all depends on the equipment. If it helps, I using Aerial Acoustic 7 speakers (not as revealing as 10T's but still quite good and very dynamic) driven by a very large McCormack DNA-2 Deluxe amp (600w RMS into 4 ohms).
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Robert



I was a Lexicon user since DAY-1 of Lexicon. I bought every

version of Pre-Pro Lexicon sold. I sold my MC-12b to buy my

D2 and have not been happier










As for price - I'm not an expert but since it has ARC and everything

I think it is a fair price. AGAIN, others may chime in with a different

view.


The D2v is improved - if you have the extra coin.


----------



## rosewood1




Liking Anthem depends upon wheher you are an electrical or acoustic engineer or not ;>).


My initial experience with Anthem is very poor due to the ultra steep learning curve to get things up and going. I am not convinced at all of the value of this technology yet, and may need a tutor or custom installer to get things running.


I have a question for all of you testers of ARC in your listening environments: can you actually HEAR a difference after making alterations based upon your tests, or is this all an exercise in acoustical engineering studies?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rosewood1* /forum/post/17802615
> 
> 
> 
> I have a question for all of you testers of ARC in your listening environments: can you actually HEAR a difference after making alterations based upon your tests, or is this all an exercise in acoustical engineering studies?



OH YES OH YES OH YES - and for many of us - it has pointed

out DEFECTS that we didn't know we had.


It may be hard to hear the difference from one ARC run to another.


But you can turn it OFF and ON and HEAR the difference with no Problem.


----------



## aramb

I installed some carpeting in my theater room today and attempted to run ARC on my AVM50v (v2.08a) with some odd results.


First, I went to zero out all the levels in the Level Calibration menu and re-set the Test Level to 75dB. Oddly, I could not get the test tone up above 70dB with the Test Level maxed out and the Left Front at 0.0. I turned the AVM50v off and on and again and this time the test tone was much louder. I set everything to 75dB and ran ARC. However, my ARC results are all around 85dB. Any idea what would cause this?


Aram


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17795220
> 
> 
> No ****! Or at the very least include a tested and approved adaptor with the Anthem. This running around buying things to perform BASIC functions is ridiculous!



I agree completely!!! I understand why they kept the serial around for installers. But for firmware updates and arc a ethernet connection would have been the way to go for such a high end component such as these.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17795220
> 
> 
> No ****! Or at the very least include a tested and approved adaptor with the Anthem. This running around buying things to perform BASIC functions is ridiculous!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robertrobert* /forum/post/17798655
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has already been stated in the hundreds of pages on this thread. I have a chance to buy a D2 from a dealer and wondered how good the preamp was. I know this can be different for many folks depending on equipment/system so to give some perspective, I'm currently using an outdated Theta Casablanca I with standard dacs for home theater and the analog direct route of the Casablanca for my Naim CDX CD player. The Theta does a pretty decent job so looking to hopefully do better than this in the D2's preamp performance since the Casablanca I is from 1997/98.
> 
> 
> Also any thoughts on whether $3,300 for the D2 is a fair price or not. It comes with the latest software along with the ARC mic and software. The dealer said it was installed in 2007 on a rack with light use.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Robert



The D2 is a fine component and the price is not a bad deal. Does that include any type of warranty? Also have you checked on audiogon for a D2?


----------



## bgrounds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17797695
> 
> 
> Not really. The Oppo's settings will send out "reference" video and audio signals (HDMI LPCM for audio). So there's nothing special you need to do in the D2 to accommodate it.
> 
> 
> The only thing that gets tricky is if you have a display that is capable of accepting 1080p/24 video input and "doing the right thing" with it. In that case you will want to set up a Video Output configuration to use that with Blu-Ray movies. Note that you can send 1080p/24 from the Oppo to the D2 whether or not you have a display for that. The D2 will convert it to 1080p/60 unless you set up for 1080p/24 output.
> 
> --Bob



My projector does accept 1080p/24. Do I want to have different settings in the oppo or d2 for standard dvd compared to br?


----------



## kmr_269




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17797139
> 
> 
> My recommendation, based on my own tests, is that you let the Oppo do the upscaling. It does an excellent job, and setting it that way allows you to use some convenience features in the Oppo.
> 
> 
> So in the Oppo (for the original D2): Explicit 1080p, Aspect Ration "16:9 Wide/Auto", HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4, Deep Color OFF (dithered), 1080p/24 Auto, DVD/24 OFF, TV System Multi, HDMI CEC OFF, Secondary Audio OFF, HDMI Audio LPCM, SACD Output PCM, Dynamic Range Control OFF.
> 
> 
> Other processing settings (e.g, picture controls) can be left at factory defaults. Convenience settings (e.g., front panel dimmer) can be set as you wish. If you are using HDMI connection only (recommended) some settings, such as Speaker Configuration will simply be ignored.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks for the summary. Would you recommend these same D2 settings for an AVM 50 with 1.33?


----------



## robertrobert




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17803164
> 
> 
> The D2 is a fine component and the price is not a bad deal. Does that include any type of warranty? Also have you checked on audiogon for a D2?




Hello Don,


Thanks for the feedback. I e-mailed you checking to see when a good time would be to talk. Basically I'm wondering if there is any difference in the preamp section of the D2 vs AVM50. I've heard there are better dacs in the D2 even though I'm not sure on the specifics of each. I'm just wondering if the AVM50 would be more than adequate for my needs. I just have a family room that is about 12' wide and sit about 10' from a 53" HDTV with very high ceiling that are approximtely 22' or slightly higher. Basically I'm a little concerned even being someone use to electronics that the D2 may be more complex than maybe I need along with all the aggrevation to set it up properly. I don't even intend to use the video connectivity of either the D2 or AVM50. I could also save about a $1k on a AVM50 compared to a D2 but hate regretting it later for whatever reason.


Robert


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robertrobert* /forum/post/17801755
> 
> 
> No feedback yet from all you Anthem D2 owners. I would really appreciate hearing back from some of you regarding the preamp performance nd whether the demo dealer price on the D2 is a good deal or not. I searched through many pages with some saying the preamp section was very good while others have bought separate preamps. I'm sure it all depends on the equipment. If it helps, I using Aerial Acoustic 7 speakers (not as revealing as 10T's but still quite good and very dynamic) driven by a very large McCormack DNA-2 Deluxe amp (600w RMS into 4 ohms).
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Robert





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rosewood1* /forum/post/17802615
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Liking Anthem depends upon wheher you are an electrical or acoustic engineer or not ;>).
> 
> 
> My initial experience with Anthem is very poor due to the ultra steep learning curve to get things up and going. I am not convinced at all of the value of this technology yet, and may need a tutor or custom installer to get things running.
> 
> 
> I have a question for all of you testers of ARC in your listening environments: can you actually HEAR a difference after making alterations based upon your tests, or is this all an exercise in acoustical engineering studies?



robertrobert,

Yes imo, the D2 is fine piece of gear that is very flexible and capable.

It will fit nicely with your speakers and amp.

I echo the advice given about checking with the dealer re: warranty\\support.

Make sure that the dealer DOES NOT list the D2 as a demo on the receipt as there is some weirdo policy that Anthem has regarding warranty expiration on demo gear.

Get any promises for support\\service in writing from the dealer if at all possible.

The remarks about complicated setup, etc. are common to any sophisticated pre-pro. The D2 has a few idiosyncrasies but in general the setup is logical but it requires the owner to read the manual and follow this thread at times.

See the first post, Dr. Robert has provided a wealth of information.


----------



## robertrobert




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17804298
> 
> 
> robertrobert,
> 
> Yes imo, the D2 is fine piece of gear that is very flexible and capable.
> 
> It will fit nicely with your speakers and amp.
> 
> I echo the advice given about checking with the dealer re: warranty\\support.
> 
> Make sure that the dealer DOES NOT list the D2 as a demo on the receipt as there is some weirdo policy that Anthem has regarding warranty expiration on demo gear.
> 
> Get any promises for support\\service in writing from the dealer if at all possible.
> 
> The remarks about complicated setup, etc. are common to any sophisticated pre-pro. The D2 has a few idiosyncrasies but in general the setup is logical but it requires the owner to read the manual and follow this thread at times.
> 
> See the first post, Dr. Robert has provided a wealth of information.





Thanks Milt99,


Good input on the demo not being in on the sales receipt since I wasn't aware of the weirdo policy. I'm not sure if there is any warranty included or not. Does the ARC make that much difference? I see a few for sale on Audiogon but the two for sale by dealers don't have the ARC while two for sale w/ ARC are being sold by individuals. I really prefer buying from a dealer if at possible for obvious reasons. To tell you the truth, I'm not sure how paypal works if buying from an individual, is there any type of protection or is it buy at my own risk.


Any thoughts on the AVM50 with the points I asked compared to the D2? Is the preamp in both the same? How much of an improvement are the dacs in the D2 in comparison? I'm thinking for movies in my modest family room, the AVM50 may be more than adequate but appreciate any feedback from those out there experience with the Anthem line.


Robert


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rosewood1* /forum/post/17802615
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Liking Anthem depends upon wheher you are an electrical or acoustic engineer or not ;>).
> 
> 
> My initial experience with Anthem is very poor due to the ultra steep learning curve to get things up and going. I am not convinced at all of the value of this technology yet, and may need a tutor or custom installer to get things running.
> 
> 
> I have a question for all of you testers of ARC in your listening environments: can you actually HEAR a difference after making alterations based upon your tests, or is this all an exercise in acoustical engineering studies?



YES, you can hear the difference and its not subtle. I can't imagine having an HT or pure stereo set up without ARC or some form of High end eq technology.


A great Home listening environment need an acoustically good room to start with, upper end components and a way to calibrate your equipments relative to the room, that's where ARC comes in.


----------



## Kensmith48

Regarding my post #26087 from yestewrday---does anyone know how to restore my OSD that was lost after using ARC?


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17802974
> 
> 
> I installed some carpeting in my theater room today and attempted to run ARC on my AVM50v (v2.08a) with some odd results.
> 
> 
> First, I went to zero out all the levels in the Level Calibration menu and re-set the Test Level to 75dB. Oddly, I could not get the test tone up above 70dB with the Test Level maxed out and the Left Front at 0.0. I turned the AVM50v off and on and again and this time the test tone was much louder. I set everything to 75dB and ran ARC. However, my ARC results are all around 85dB. Any idea what would cause this?
> 
> 
> Aram



I've run into similar problems with my 50v. Not only with sound levels, but also with menu displays and getting it to output any sound at all. I turn it off at the back switch and unplug it for a while and everything returns to normal. This happens more than I would like, but it does seem to happen more after using ARC. One indicator that tells me trouble is brewing is the lack of the Anthem logo on my monitor when I turn it on.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17802974
> 
> 
> I installed some carpeting in my theater room today and attempted to run ARC on my AVM50v (v2.08a) with some odd results.
> 
> 
> First, I went to zero out all the levels in the Level Calibration menu and re-set the Test Level to 75dB. Oddly, I could not get the test tone up above 70dB with the Test Level maxed out and the Left Front at 0.0. I turned the AVM50v off and on and again and this time the test tone was much louder. I set everything to 75dB and ran ARC. However, my ARC results are all around 85dB. Any idea what would cause this?
> 
> 
> Aram



If you have the time, try this.


1.) Save your user settings.


2.) Load factory defaults.


3.) Modify your speaker/distance settings to what they are set to in your user settings. Leave all the calibration levels at "0".


4.) Save this to Installer settings for future use.


5.) Use this "Virgin" set to setup your test tones and run ARC.


6.) When completed, reload your User settings and upload ARC.


Before future ARC runs, save your user settings and upload the installer settings to always start with just the basic settings you saved in step 4.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU* /forum/post/17805828
> 
> 
> I've run into similar problems with my 50v. Not only with sound levels, but also with menu displays and getting it to output any sound at all. I turn it off at the back switch and unplug it for a while and everything returns to normal. This happens more than I would like, but it does seem to happen more after using ARC. One indicator that tells me trouble is brewing is the lack of the Anthem logo on my monitor when I turn it on.



The RS meter seems to have a problem with its readout of spl levels. Bob has suggested this could be as high as 10 db. He suggested to lower the sound level before you measure to prevent this. I have the same issue but don't care because it has no effect on the sound. I simply turn up my sound less than others during movies and music.

John


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17806390
> 
> 
> The RS meter seems to have a problem with its readout of spl levels. Bob has suggested this could be as high as 10 db. He suggested to lower the sound level before you measure to prevent this. I have the same issue but don't care because it has no effect on the sound. I simply turn up my sound less than others during movies and music.
> 
> John



I posted this recently, I did not know the issue was related to the RATSHACK SPL meter. As was clearly demonstrated in my tests, the D2v was outputting the correct levels.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17725394
> 
> 
> After the above noted load of 2.08a, and before I loaded any settings, I hooked up the left channel balanced output and after the unbalanced output to my Audio Control SA3050A Spectrum Analyzer line-in and set it to the SPL mode. The output from the D2v in both were exactly 75db. Where is the 6db overshoot i have read about coming from? Is it an ARC issue? I also checked the sub out and it too was 75db.
> 
> 
> ADDITIONAL NOTE: I ran ARC with the Left Front hooked up to the Spectrum Analyzer and the output was 74db both balanced and unbalanced. If I set the test lever to -1db the output changed to 73db.


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17806390
> 
> 
> The RS meter seems to have a problem with its readout of spl levels. Bob has suggested this could be as high as 10 db. He suggested to lower the sound level before you measure to prevent this. I have the same issue but don't care because it has no effect on the sound. I simply turn up my sound less than others during movies and music.
> 
> John



John: That was the odd part. The measurements on ARC were all about 10dB higher ( ~85dB) than my previous measurements. I figured I would just have to run the volume at a lower level to compensate. However, I found that I now have to turn the volume control up much higher than previously by about 10-12dB. Seems counter-intuitive.


Aram


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17806821
> 
> 
> John: That was the odd part. The measurements on ARC were all about 10dB higher ( ~85dB) than my previous measurements. I figured I would just have to run the volume at a lower level to compensate. However, I found that I now have to turn the volume control up much higher than previously by about 10-12dB. Seems counter-intuitive.
> 
> 
> Aram



That is weird. Not what I have experienced having done many ARC measurements.

John


----------



## Texas steve

Problem, anyone know why? On my D2V I have HDMI in from y Sat box. Out output 1 HDMI switch on amp etc all ok.


Out 2 HDMI Im just sending this directly to the tv (in other words the D2v is just processing it to 1080P) out to my 1080P TV. Problem in the sound level coming out to the TV (in the HDMI cable) is really reduced - anyone know why? I have to push the sound on my TV up to 80 %. Its like the D2v is dropping the level considerably.


Suggestions?


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17806234
> 
> 
> If you have the time, try this.
> 
> 
> 1.) Save your user settings.
> 
> 
> 2.) Load factory defaults.
> 
> 
> 3.) Modify your speaker/distance settings to what they are set to in your user settings. Leave all the calibration levels at "0".
> 
> 
> 4.) Save this to Installer settings for future use.
> 
> 
> 5.) Use this "Virgin" set to setup your test tones and run ARC.
> 
> 
> 6.) When completed, reload your User settings and upload ARC.
> 
> 
> Before future ARC runs, save your user settings and upload the installer settings to always start with just the basic settings you saved in step 4.



I am on my way home shortly and will give this a try and re-run the ARC.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17806390
> 
> 
> The RS meter seems to have a problem with its readout of spl levels. Bob has suggested this could be as high as 10 db. He suggested to lower the sound level before you measure to prevent this. I have the same issue but don't care because it has no effect on the sound. I simply turn up my sound less than others during movies and music.
> 
> John



I know it was not a problem with the RS meter. I could audibly tell that the levels were really low the first time I tried the test tones. After turning the AVM50v off and back on the test tone came on so loud I almost %^& my pants!!!











Aram


----------



## steven2583

Has anyone had their D2v go dead and then come back to life a couple days later? I purchased it back in Feb of 2009. Christmas morning I was playing Christmas music for a couple of hours. My son turned it off to play his video game. Couple hours later I tried to turn it back on. The display said "Anthem Statement D2v" and nothing would happend. I was running firmware 2.07j. I unplugged it and plugged it back in. Still nothing. Tried to upload 2.08 firmware thinking the firmware got hosed. Computer found the D2v waited a while then said OKI loaded failed. Disconnected everything and tried again and same thing. Hooked up my Yamaha so I could at least watch some movies over the long holiday weekend. Boy the sound was disappointing. Well, I didn't expect much for a receiver that costs 10% of the D2v and no external amp. But I degress. I let it sit around until Sunday and figured I give it a try again. I didn't hook up any of the cables(unit and power cord only). It started to work again. So I upload firmware 2.08, hooked up all of the cables, and put everything back into place. What a job. It's still working. I hate to send it to Anthem and them not finding anything wrong with it. But it failing like that doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling. Since it has a three year warrenty I figured keep it until it happens again. Anyone else have had this problem?


----------



## Texas steve

Perhaps it was the "ghost of Christmas past" that possessed your D2v!













> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583* /forum/post/17809182
> 
> 
> Has anyone had their D2v go dead and then come back to life a couple days later? I purchased it back in Feb of 2009. Christmas morning I was playing Christmas music for a couple of hours. My son turned it off to play his video game. Couple hours later I tried to turn it back on. The display said "Anthem Statement D2v" and nothing would happend. I was running firmware 2.07j. I unplugged it and plugged it back in. Still nothing. Tried to upload 2.08 firmware thinking the firmware got hosed. Computer found the D2v waited a while then said OKI loaded failed. Disconnected everything and tried again and same thing. Hooked up my Yamaha so I could at least watch some movies over the long holiday weekend. Boy the sound was disappointing. Well, I didn't expect much for a receiver that costs 10% of the D2v and no external amp. But I degress. I let it sit around until Sunday and figured I give it a try again. I didn't hook up any of the cables(unit and power cord only). It started to work again. So I upload firmware 2.08, hooked up all of the cables, and put everything back into place. What a job. It's still working. I hate to send it to Anthem and them not finding anything wrong with it. But it failing like that doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling. Since it has a three year warrenty I figured keep it until it happens again. Anyone else have had this problem?


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17806234
> 
> 
> If you have the time, try this.
> 
> 
> 1.) Save your user settings.
> 
> 
> 2.) Load factory defaults.
> 
> 
> 3.) Modify your speaker/distance settings to what they are set to in your user settings. Leave all the calibration levels at "0".
> 
> 
> 4.) Save this to Installer settings for future use.
> 
> 
> 5.) Use this "Virgin" set to setup your test tones and run ARC.
> 
> 
> 6.) When completed, reload your User settings and upload ARC.
> 
> 
> Before future ARC runs, save your user settings and upload the installer settings to always start with just the basic settings you saved in step 4.



Okay, I tried this and had identical results. After loading the factory default settings I went to the Test Level (set to 0.0). It was about 60dB. I turned the AVM off and back on. Now the test tone was over 80dB. I backed it off to 75dB and re-ran ARC. Here are my initial results. The carpeting has helped smooth things out a bit.


Aram


----------



## aramb

After listening to various source material (music, dialog, etc.) I decided the sound was a bit harsh, particularly from the center speaker. I tried lowering the target to 17kHz, 15kHz, and finally 12kHz, re-loading each time.


Although the the ARC is not correcting the high frequencies with the target set to 12kHz, it seems to work better in my room. It now sounds better than it ever has sounded and dialog is even more clear than before.










I have posted the curves with the 12kHz target.


Aram


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17809990
> 
> 
> After listening to various source material (music, dialog, etc.) I decided the sound was a bit harsh, particularly from the center speaker. I tried lowering the target to 17kHz, 15kHz, and finally 12kHz, re-loading each time.
> 
> 
> Although the the ARC is not correcting the high frequencies with the target set to 12kHz, it seems to work better in my room. It now sounds better than it ever has sounded and dialog is even more clear than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have posted the curves with the 12kHz target.
> 
> 
> Aram



The sequence I suggested was to eliminate any errant settings in your setup files that may have been altering the test tone and Arc output.


Are the readings you are getting, 60db than 80db, seem correct to your ears?


Looking at your files I would suggest changing the target to 10k to allow Arc to allow more processing of the lower frequencies which your room is amplifying.


In addition to being concerned about the Anthem unit, I'd be looking at the amps and inter-connects.


I may have missed it in your prior posts, but what FW version are you using...and have you tried a reload?


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17810412
> 
> 
> The sequence I suggested was to eliminate any errant settings in your setup files that may have been altering the test tone and Arc output.



I knew that. I guess I should not have addressed both issues in the same post. It was a bit confusing the way I wrote it. The sequence you suggested _should_ have eliminated any user error with regards to the test tones. I am referring only to the white noise test tone that is produced in the Left Channel when you go to Level Calibration->Noise Sequence: Manual->Test Level: 0.0 -> Front L: 0.0.



> Quote:
> Are the readings you are getting, 60db than 80db, seem correct to your ears?



Definitely. After loading the factory default settings and going to the Test Level, it was very soft (could not get to 75dB even maxing out the settings), yet when going back to normal source material, the volume was fine (not an amp issue). Turning the processor off and back on brought the Test Level back to a more normal level (adjustable down to 75dB)



> Quote:
> Looking at your files I would suggest changing the target to 10k to allow Arc to allow more processing of the lower frequencies which your room is amplifying.



Thanks, I will give it a try. It seems to get better the lower I go.



> Quote:
> In addition to being concerned about the Anthem unit, I'd be looking at the amps and inter-connects.
> 
> 
> I may have missed it in your prior posts, but what FW version are you using...and have you tried a reload?



I think this may be a bug in v2.08a which I currently have installed. I never experienced this with 2.07g. I may send an email off to Nick and let him know about it.


Aram


----------



## robertrobert

Still trying to find out if there is much audio differences that can be heard between the AVM50 for direct CD listening (not using the DACs inside either Anthem). Please don't tell me to route my blu-ray player through the Anthem DACs. I've compare my CD player to anything else that has ever entered my system and nothing sounds better. My CD player also has no digital output since Naim believes it would add noise. With the excellent sound, I can't really argue.


Besides this, I know the DACs inside the D2 are better than the AVM50 but my room is small and I don't play movies loud.


For the above two reasons, I'm wondering if the AVM50 with ARC would be a better choice than a D2 with no ARC.


Thanks


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17809990
> 
> 
> After listening to various source material (music, dialog, etc.) I decided the sound was a bit harsh, particularly from the center speaker. I tried lowering the target to 17kHz, 15kHz, and finally 12kHz, re-loading each time.
> 
> 
> Although the the ARC is not correcting the high frequencies with the target set to 12kHz, it seems to work better in my room. It now sounds better than it ever has sounded and dialog is even more clear than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have posted the curves with the 12kHz target.
> 
> 
> Aram



My max eq are 8khz for movies and just the default 5khz for music. I like the sound better as it makes the sound a little shrill above that. The subwoofer's response is a major concern as you have a big dip at 60 hertz that ARC can;t compensate. I suggest moving your sub a foot at a time (where possible) to see if the null at 60 can be improved. A lot of LF energy is at this region and you are losing a lot of punch with your sub's response.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robertrobert* /forum/post/17810771
> 
> 
> Still trying to find out if there is much audio differences that can be heard between the AVM50 for direct CD listening (not using the DACs inside either Anthem). Please don't tell me to route my blu-ray player through the Anthem DACs. I've compare my CD player to anything else that has ever entered my system and nothing sounds better. My CD player also has no digital output since Naim believes it would add noise. With the excellent sound, I can't really argue.
> 
> 
> Besides this, I know the DACs inside the D2 are better than the AVM50 but my room is small and I don't play movies loud.
> 
> 
> For the above two reasons, I'm wondering if the AVM50 with ARC would be a better choice than a D2 with no ARC.
> 
> 
> Thanks



For me ARC was the main reason why I bought the D2 before as it was not available with the AVM50 before. I'll bet you will be hard pressed to hear any difference between the AVM50 and the D2, everything else at constant and no ARC on both units. Now with ARC engaged, properly set and calibrated, I will pick the unit with ARC with no doubt in my mind.


At most the difference that we hear with components can be less than 1/2 dB considering the level of quality equipments have today. ARC can pinpoint and correct up to 6dB bothways accross the full spectrum of music. Of course, it is important to have the room acoustically neutral(maybe just a bit) as possible also.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robertrobert* /forum/post/17810771
> 
> 
> Still trying to find out if there is much audio differences that can be heard between the AVM50 for direct CD listening (not using the DACs inside either Anthem). Please don't tell me to route my blu-ray player through the Anthem DACs. I've compare my CD player to anything else that has ever entered my system and nothing sounds better. My CD player also has no digital output since Naim believes it would add noise. With the excellent sound, I can't really argue.
> 
> 
> Besides this, I know the DACs inside the D2 are better than the AVM50 but my room is small and I don't play movies loud.
> 
> 
> For the above two reasons, I'm wondering if the AVM50 with ARC would be a better choice than a D2 with no ARC.
> 
> 
> Thanks



It would be my guess that the avm50 with ARC will sound better than the D2 without ARC. The D2 I have sounded better than my old AVM20 but there is a bigger difference with ARC. To use ARC you will be converting the output from your CD player to digital for the processing to occur.


----------



## mkaye

i have a customer where i was calibrating his PJ and he wanted me to run ARC (just traded in his D1 for the D2v)

i have been following this thread so i gave it a shot

his room is very bright i.e. hard floors, walls, ceiling & irregular shape at the back

this is the 1st run with all the defaults

is there anything he can do with the current config, or does he have to add some room treatments

the front speakers are Mirage and are out from the wall & angled in slightly

the dip from 200-2K is disturbing


mark


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robertrobert* /forum/post/17810771
> 
> 
> Still trying to find out if there is much audio differences that can be heard between the AVM50 for direct CD listening (not using the DACs inside either Anthem). Please don't tell me to route my blu-ray player through the Anthem DACs. I've compare my CD player to anything else that has ever entered my system and nothing sounds better. My CD player also has no digital output since Naim believes it would add noise. With the excellent sound, I can't really argue.
> 
> 
> Besides this, I know the DACs inside the D2 are better than the AVM50 but my room is small and I don't play movies loud.
> 
> 
> For the above two reasons, I'm wondering if the AVM50 with ARC would be a better choice than a D2 with no ARC.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I have an AVM-50 w/ARC and love it for what it does to multi-channel content, but can assure you that it does not have the 2 channel DACs of a great high end DAC, and the pre-amp section is not as good as a dedicated 2 channel analogue pre-amp. It just can't be with all the other things happening inside the same box.


I have a PS Audio PWT/PWD combo for CD and high res music being fed into a PS Audio GCC-250 (HT Bypass) for dedicated 2 channel critical listening. This is better than what the Anthem can do for pure 2 channel music (especially high res that the anthem cannot handle) even with ARC.


Admittedly, my 2 channel equipment costs considerably more than the Anthem and only does 2 channel music.


The Anthem w/ARC is great for movies and fine for background multi-channel listening of 2 channel content or casual 2 channel, but falls a little short for critical listening for my speakers in my listening room. Your results could vary based on how good or bad you system sounds in your environment and how much work ARC is performing to fix your problems.


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/17812855
> 
> 
> i have a customer where i was calibrating his PJ and he wanted me to run ARC (just traded in his D1 for the D2v)
> 
> i have been following this thread so i gave it a shot
> 
> his room is very bright i.e. hard floors, walls, ceiling & irregular shape at the back
> 
> this is the 1st run with all the defaults
> 
> is there anything he can do with the current config, or does he have to add some room treatments
> 
> the front speakers are Mirage and are out from the wall & angled in slightly
> 
> the dip from 200-2K is disturbing
> 
> 
> mark



Hi Mark,


The 200-5k dip is uncharacteristic and indicative of a blatent issue. You've done one thing already - left the cutoff frequency at the default 5kHz. I've found if this is too high, the result tends to be bright by 2-3 dB in higher frequencies and others have reported they feel bass can be thrown off.


Ensure his Mirage Midranges are working OK. As they are likely Omnipolar speakers, verify drivers on both sides and verify any controls in the loop. (As both channels display the issue) If you do not find an issue with the midranges and there is no furniture such as a couch immediately in front of the Miroages, then treatments may be the next step.


Good Luck,

Mike (Recently replaced my OM-7 midranges...)


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robertrobert* /forum/post/17810771
> 
> 
> Still trying to find out if there is much audio differences that can be heard between the AVM50 for direct CD listening (not using the DACs inside either Anthem). Please don't tell me to route my blu-ray player through the Anthem DACs. I've compare my CD player to anything else that has ever entered my system and nothing sounds better. My CD player also has no digital output since Naim believes it would add noise. With the excellent sound, I can't really argue.
> 
> 
> Besides this, I know the DACs inside the D2 are better than the AVM50 but my room is small and I don't play movies loud.
> 
> 
> For the above two reasons, I'm wondering if the AVM50 with ARC would be a better choice than a D2 with no ARC.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Hi Robert,


A suggestion:


1.) It depends upon how much you like to tinker with your equipment vs plug 'n play:


- If you just want your equipment to 'work out of the box', then likely you don't want to commit the time to ARC


2.) If you don't mind tinkering for a result, then ARC can be a great value:


- My main enjoyment is music and my ear trained. In the past, I've used the "Direct" function of most systems I've had and enjoyed 2ch stereo the most. However, comparing the benefit from ARC vs any loss due to increased signal path - ARC wins hands down. So now I use Analog DSP with a D2v. (I prefer my CD player's DAC as well.)


At first, my ARC result sounded a little bright to my ears in the high frequencies and that was with a Max Frequency limit of 20 kHz in ARC. Successive tries yielded better results to my ear by lowering this in steps, settling on 7 kHz for Max Frequency. ARC had measured what it believed to be a level dip around 7-10 kHz and added a corrective boost, but my ears told me that levels around 7-10 kHz were 2-3 dB too high after this. After lowering the Max Frequency to 7 kHz, I now believe I have a very neutral sound which allows all other charateristics to flow. Some people type they believe the ARC mic has an uneven response around 10 kHz. Given the default Max Freq is 5 kHz, perhaps Anthem believes this too.


At any rate, I recommend ARC as one of the largest incremental improvements ever added to my system with a small investment of time.


Good Luck,

Mike


----------



## Texas steve

BUMP, any thoughts here guys!!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17808739
> 
> 
> Problem, anyone know why? On my D2V I have HDMI in from my Sat box.
> 
> Out output 1 HDMI switch on amp etc all ok.
> 
> 
> Out 2 HDMI Im just sending this directly to the tv (in other words the D2v is just processing it to 1080P) out to my 1080P TV. Accordingly thre is no sound produced by the D2v, I let the Tv speakers do it.
> 
> 
> Problem in the sound level coming out to the TV (in the HDMI cable) is really reduced - anyone know why? I have to push the sound on my TV up to 80 %. Its like the D2v is dropping the level considerably.
> 
> 
> Suggestions?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robertrobert* /forum/post/17810771
> 
> 
> Still trying to find out if there is much audio differences that can be heard between the AVM50 for direct CD listening (not using the DACs inside either Anthem). Please don't tell me to route my blu-ray player through the Anthem DACs. I've compare my CD player to anything else that has ever entered my system and nothing sounds better. My CD player also has no digital output since Naim believes it would add noise. With the excellent sound, I can't really argue.
> 
> 
> Besides this, I know the DACs inside the D2 are better than the AVM50 but my room is small and I don't play movies loud.
> 
> 
> For the above two reasons, I'm wondering if the AVM50 with ARC would be a better choice than a D2 with no ARC.
> 
> 
> Thanks




Just wondering, why not get a D2 _with_ ARC. The ARC upgrade is only $400, if I remember correctly.

What kind of front speakers are you using and what type of room treatments do you have?

My fronts (paradigm S4) are very good, but not truly 'full range'. With ARC I am able to integrate my subs for better bass response when listening to music. My system is set up in our living room, which is not optimum. If you have a dedicated HT that has been treated for optimum bass/sonic response, then maybe you won't notice the difference with ARC that much.

I feed my Ayre cdp into the D2 via '2 ch balanced' XLR inputs. I have tried both 'analog direct' (no ARC), and 'analog DSP' using ARC. I prefer using 'analog DSP' with ARC. A very noticable improvement to my ears.

Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17813631
> 
> 
> BUMP, any thoughts here guys!!



Are you saying you input the sound via HDMI to your TV from the Anthem and then control the volume with the tv volume control ?


----------



## Texas steve

yes. I have have two connections out of the D2v

One is HDMI2 outs when I dont want to turn on my big amp (aka the wifes use) and then HDIM1 is when I automatically turn on the amp etc.


stve



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17822420
> 
> 
> Are you saying you input the sound via HDMI to your TV from the Anthem and then control the volume with the tv volume control ?


----------



## Dewboy3

Hi All,


Just received my D2v yesterdayit took me about 2 hours to hook everything up and get it set up correctly. I ran ARC for the first time and it worked very well.

If someone who really understands the charts could take a look and let me know

that would be great. I did notice the center channel crossover is at 110 compared

to the L/R which is 65 why would that be? I'm running M&K 150P L, C, R the

speakers are rated at 80 Hz from the factory.


Thanks in advance,

Dewboy


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dewboy3* /forum/post/17824746
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> Just received my D2v yesterday……it took me about 2 hours to hook everything up and get it set up correctly. I ran ARC for the first time and it worked very well.
> 
> If someone who really understands the charts could take a look and let me know
> 
> that would be great. I did notice the center channel crossover is at 110 compared
> 
> to the L/R which is 65 why would that be? I’m running M&K 150P L, C, R the
> 
> speakers are rated at 80 Hz from the factory.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Dewboy



Dewboy,

your graphs look very good. I would raise the freq. to 15000 Hz and then upload. Check that the lower freq. don't change very much. Your higher freq could be fixed with this one change. Experiment with the freq up to 20000 and see what gives you the best curves. Of course let your ears determine what is best for you. I would also not worry about the values in the targets menu. Listen to the results and let that be your guide.

John


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17824956
> 
> 
> Dewboy,
> 
> your graphs look very good. I would raise the freq. to 15000 Hz and then upload. Check that the lower freq. don't change very much. Your higher freq could be fixed with this one change. Experiment with the freq up to 20000 and see what gives you the best curves. Of course let your ears determine what is best for you. I would also not worry about the values in the targets menu. Listen to the results and let that be your guide.
> 
> John



I find it interesting that Dewboy's M&K speakers have the same 14 kHz dip as others using B&W speakers. Must be that ampersand causing it!










But seriously, it just perpetuates the question of whether this is in the speaker or in the mic.


Dewboy, if, after extending the HF response cutoff to 20 kHz, the HF sounds tizzy, it may suggest it's not actually a dip in the speaker after all. Cutting off ARC


----------



## Milt99

^^^^^^^

I'm convinced it's the mic.

I'm also convinced that above 10kHz the mic does not accurately reflect the frequency response of my speakers in my room, anyway.

Some time ago, I wrote a long post about my experience and thoughts about some of the idiosyncrasies of ARC but I decided not to post as my experience seems to be at odds with most other posters on this thread.

The measurements from the maker of my speakers are essentially flat from 100Hz to 20kHz plus. They're sealed MTMs that are stand mounted.


After trying 20, 15 & 12 in that order, I've decided that the default 5kHz sounds best in my room on my gear.


I think the surest way to judge the sound is by listening to hi-res music sources, preferably non-amplified and not film soundtracks, regardless if they're lossless or not.

My advice is, don't take it for granted that boosting the correction to 20kHz is necessary or trying to judge simply from the ARC graphs if everything is kosher.

My ARC graphs looked fine but I blew a LCY ribbon tweeter in my center.

I also "apparantly" blew a Seas Excel W17 driver in my _left rear surround_!?!

If you know anything about these drivers you know that frying them is extremely rare to unheard of.

I consider my amplification better than decent. a BAT VK6200 driving the L\\C\\Rs and an Anthem A5 driving the side and rear surrounds.


In my system, pushing ARC beyond what it could do caused some really weird sh!t.

To my knowledge no one else has posted an experience anything like this on this thread so my deal is likely an anomaly but I do like to listen at near reference levels(~75dB) if the soundtrack allows and never had any issues before I jacked up the EQ or after I returned to the default.

YMMV.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17825227
> 
> 
> ^^^^^^^
> 
> I'm convinced it's the mic.
> 
> I'm also convinced that above 10kHz the mic does not accurately reflect the frequency response of my speakers in my room, anyway.
> 
> Some time ago, I wrote a long post about my experience and thoughts about some of the idiosyncrasies of ARC but I decided not to post as my experience seems to be at odds with most other posters on this thread.
> 
> The measurements from the maker of my speakers are essentially flat from 100Hz to 20kHz plus. They're sealed MTMs that are stand mounted.
> 
> 
> After trying 20, 15 & 12 in that order, I've decided that the default 5kHz sounds best in my room on my gear.
> 
> 
> I think the surest way to judge the sound is by listening to hi-res music sources, preferably non-amplified and not film soundtracks, regardless if they're lossless or not.
> 
> My advice is, don't take it for granted that boosting the correction to 20kHz is necessary or trying to judge simply from the ARC graphs if everything is kosher.
> 
> My ARC graphs looked fine but I blew a LCY ribbon tweeter in my center.
> 
> I also "apparantly" blew a Seas Excel W17 driver in my _left rear surround_!?!
> 
> If you know anything about these drivers you know that frying them is extremely rare to unheard of.
> 
> I consider my amplification better than decent. a BAT VK6200 driving the L\\C\\Rs and an Anthem A5 driving the side and rear surrounds.
> 
> 
> In my system, pushing ARC beyond what it could do caused some really weird sh!t.
> 
> To my knowledge no one else has posted an experience anything like this on this thread so my deal is likely an anomaly but I do like to listen at near reference levels(~75dB) if the soundtrack allows and never had any issues before I jacked up the EQ or after I returned to the default.
> 
> YMMV.



Have you emailed Nick about this. Just interested in what he would say, since they could probably test this at Anthem. I have tried everything from 5K to 20K and the higher ones from 15K to 20K sounded the best.

John


----------



## Milt99

AFAIR, Nick has recommended using the 5kHz setting for ARC.

In all of the articles I've read, room correction is really recommended for taming the lower frequencies only.

Like I said, these are my experiences and thoughts alone.

No one else has posted anything like this.

My only recommendation is to listen carefully to your system, like you've done.

If it improves things, all the better.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Happy New Year to all you "Cool Kids" out there!

--Bob


----------



## emailtim

Bob,


Happy New Year to you too and all other forum members !!!


Tim


----------



## budeone

Happy New Year to all and thanks for all these great threads.


----------



## Dewboy3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17825086
> 
> 
> I find it interesting that Dewboy's M&K speakers have the same 14 kHz dip as others using B&W speakers. Must be that ampersand causing it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously, it just perpetuates the question of whether this is in the speaker or in the mic.
> 
> 
> Dewboy, if, after extending the HF response cutoff to 20 kHz, the HF sounds tizzy, it may suggest it's not actually a dip in the speaker after all. Cutting off ARC


----------



## Roomraider

Hello Bob,


I hate to bother you, but I left the forums a while back when "ARC" took over the thread. I've searched every post here and still can't find an answer. In fact I pretty much just gave up over the years on finding a solution. I Hope after this long of a time, someone may finnaly have the answer.


Enter the problem: Direct tv H-21 receiver + Monoprice 3' 24 (awg) HDMI cable + Anthem AVM-50 v.1.33 = random handshake loss when changing channels, more so from SD to HD channels & vice versa.


I had the same issue with my HTPC "DVI to HDMI" handshake, that was resolved when I replaced the vid card with 1 with HDMI interface.

Thanx


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/17827308
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> I hate to bother you, but I left the forums a while back when "ARC" took over the thread. I've searched every post here and still can't find an answer. In fact I pretty much just gave up over the years on finding a solution. I Hope after this long of a time, someone may finnaly have the answer.
> 
> 
> Enter the problem: Direct tv H-21 receiver + Monoprice 3' 24 (awg) HDMI cable + Anthem AVM-50 v.1.33 = random handshake loss when changing channels, more so from SD to HD channels & vice versa.
> 
> 
> I had the same issue with my HTPC "DVI to HDMI" handshake, that was resolved when I replaced the vid card with 1 with HDMI interface.
> 
> Thanx



VERY EASY solution - STOP using HDMI between Direct tv H-21 receiver

and AVM-50. You don't need HDMI - use Component = EXACT SAME

PQ and AQ and no handshaking - this solution has been repeated 100

times on this thread.


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buyrightlow* /forum/post/13265345
> 
> 
> Well, I'm very disappointed in the D2 and Anthem technical support in one regard. I have a new Nvidea 8600GTS video card with 512mb(with DVI-I out), certainly a well regarded and widely used card. Tech support at Anthem has informed me that the D2 (I'm runnning v 1.21) has many problems with video cards and that the D2 is not well suited to hook up to a PC and they can do nothing about the fact that my Marantz VP15(which is really wonderful) works perfectly when hooked up directly to the PC, but when connected through the D2, crashes the PC almost every time I hook it up through the D2, albeit not every time. When I disconnect the cable from the D2 and run to the projector and it works, I have repluged it into the D2, sometimes the D2 will handle it, but eventually it crashes. I also went out and purchased the Gefen DVI Detective, to no avail. They advise there is nothing they can do to help me with this problem and I shouldn't be using the D2 as part of a media center hub that includes PC's I find this very troubling and not the kind of support that should be expected from Anthem on their high end product. If I knew then what I now know, that Anthem will not support the D2 in a media center with PC set-up, I would have purchased another product. I'm now thinking my only alternative is to run the PC directly to the 2nd hdmi input on the Marantz. Sadly, that will require more wall breaking to hide the cable and lose the ability of the D2 on the video side. I hope the D2 will support the digital audio coming out of my high end Creative Blaster audio card. :-(



Solution: Replace your video card with an Nvidia card that has HDMI interface & your problem will go bye bye.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/17827377
> 
> 
> Solution: Replace your video card with an Nvidia card that has HDMI interface & your problem will go bye bye.



Maybe you have had good luck with Nvidia - but not me - I trust

ATI with HDMI more.


In general 99% of all video cards are NOT 100% HDCP Compliant.

Maybe Some Day.


----------



## Johnsteph10

A couple of questions (1 quick answer and 1 probably more complex answer)...this thread is so long that it makes searching for exactly what I want cumbersome at best!


1. I asked maybe 6 months ago about Dolby Volume -- and it is still not here. It is kind of aggravating considering how long the D2v has been out...and it even has dolby volume silkscreened on the front panel! Any ideas about when it will come out? I was told "a few months" 6 months ago.


2. I am getting ready to add an anamorphic lens to my RS20 -- I know I have read that the D2v is anamorphic friendly...any links to specific posts/answers about properly setting it up?


Thanks!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/17827676
> 
> 
> 2. I am getting ready to add an anamorphic lens to my RS20 -- I know I have read that the D2v is anamorphic friendly...any links to specific posts/answers about properly setting it up?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Info on SETTINGS are on *PAGE #1* 


Like all things with Dolby in the name - it takes Dolby Labs MUCH MUCH

too long to certify anything - Therefore Anthem has probably had it for

MONTHS waiting for Dolby's OK to release it. IT IS A LICENSING problem.


----------



## thestewman

Any body using the Popcorn Hour C-200 with a D2 or D2v ?


Several issues I would like to compare


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17827726
> 
> 
> Like all things with Dolby in the name - it takes Dolby Labs MUCH MUCH too long to certify anything - Therefore Anthem has probably had it for MONTHS waiting for Dolby's OK to release it. IT IS A LICENSING problem.



In my experience (I was there for 25 years) the primary reason for protracted certification is improper product design.


Of course the Anthem situation may be different.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17829448
> 
> 
> In my experience (I was there for 25 years) the primary reason for protracted certification is improper product design.
> 
> 
> Of course the Anthem situation may be different.



Everyone, including Bob P was expecting Dolby Volume in November. I think the 2.08 loader issue put it on the back burner. A late January, early February, release is my gut feeling. No post from Nick or Piero has ever mentioned a holdup at Dolby.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17829643
> 
> 
> Everyone, including Bob P was expecting Dolby Volume in November. I think the 2.08 loader issue put it on the back burner. A late January, early February, release is my gut feeling. No post from Nick or Piero has ever mentioned a holdup at Dolby.



I think they are not prevented by Dolby from releasing TEST FW.


I am sure they will NEED Dolby's release to make it an official product

and use the Dolby Name for the feature.


I know I was a beta tester for Pioneer's 1st Gen Blu-Ray player. I had

Dolby True-HD Decode FW before it was released and I know because I

was working with Pioneer that they NEEDED to DELAY the Public release

until Dolby Labs Approved the Beta FW. It took at least two months to

get the Dolby Approval after the Beta FW was available.


----------



## Audiophiliac

This may not be the proper thread to post this in, but worth a shot. I have a client with an AVM50v, Runco RS1100 Ultra, HD cable box (via component and toslink), etc. There has been issues since we first installed his system. Starting with the first AVM50 we had in there. There was HDMI switching issues and audio problems in some of the channels. Anthem kindly replaced it with an AVM50v. We put it in and even though the noise problems were gone, we still had HDMI issues. We discovered that this was caused by the LG combo player we had in the system. We swapped in a Panny BDP and everything started working for the most part.


The issue we have now is that sometimes when changing channels on the HD cable box (Motorola via component and toslink), the Anthem drops the audio. It seems to still have a sync with the signal because the DD light will be lit up. But no sound period. And there is no sound from ANY source (Bluray, VCR, PS3, Xbox 360, Wii, AM/FM, CD). In no way, can I get sound from any source until I power cycle the Anthem. I have tried unplugging the cable box, removing the connections to the Anthem, power cycling any and all components. It simply will not output any audio once it loses the sound until I power the Anthem down and fire it back up.


At first, I thought it was a quirky cable box. But this would not really explain why there would be no audio from even the built-in AM/FM tuner. I suppose it still could be the cable box causing the lockup. But I cannot understand how or why it is happening. And it is not consistently repeatable. But I did repeat the problem multiple times by the same methods. I have had issues with cable boxes and digital audio before, but nothing like this. Not to the point that the entire pre/pro gets so confused that it cannot "snap out of it".


Any ideas? I tried switching the "Auto Digital" setting from on to off. This did not help. The funny thing to me is that the Anthem still shows that it is locked on to the Dolby Digital signal from the cable box. And it will change depending on the source...I can switch to BluRay and it will display TrueHD...or analog for the CD player....and back to DD on the cable input. But alas....silence.


I am placing a call to Anthem tech. support monday. They have been awesome everytime I have called them. I am sure they can shed more light on the situation. I just wanted to chime in here where all the Anthem gurus tend to congregate.







Thanks and happy new year!


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/17827676
> 
> 
> A couple of questions (1 quick answer and 1 probably more complex answer)...this thread is so long that it makes searching for exactly what I want cumbersome at best!
> 
> 
> 1. I asked maybe 6 months ago about Dolby Volume -- and it is still not here. It is kind of aggravating considering how long the D2v has been out...and it even has dolby volume silkscreened on the front panel! Any ideas about when it will come out? I was told "a few months" 6 months ago.
> 
> 
> 2. I am getting ready to add an anamorphic lens to my RS20 -- I know I have read that the D2v is anamorphic friendly...any links to specific posts/answers about properly setting it up?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



You dont need any changes in the aspect ratio via D2v at all. the RS20 has a vertical stretch function that can be turned On and off easily. I use a Panamorph h480 with the RS20 with no problem at all.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17829092
> 
> 
> Any body using the Popcorn Hour C-200 with a D2 or D2v ?
> 
> 
> Several issues I would like to compare



I have the C200 and the AVM50V


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiophiliac* /forum/post/17830013
> 
> 
> This may not be the proper thread to post this in, but worth a shot. I have a client with an AVM50v, Runco RS1100 Ultra, HD cable box (via component and toslink), etc. There has been issues since we first installed his system. Starting with the first AVM50 we had in there. There was HDMI switching issues and audio problems in some of the channels. Anthem kindly replaced it with an AVM50v. We put it in and even though the noise problems were gone, we still had HDMI issues. We discovered that this was caused by the LG combo player we had in the system. We swapped in a Panny BDP and everything started working for the most part.
> 
> 
> The issue we have now is that sometimes when changing channels on the HD cable box (Motorola via component and toslink), the Anthem drops the audio. It seems to still have a sync with the signal because the DD light will be lit up. But no sound period. And there is no sound from ANY source (Bluray, VCR, PS3, Xbox 360, Wii, AM/FM, CD). In no way, can I get sound from any source until I power cycle the Anthem. I have tried unplugging the cable box, removing the connections to the Anthem, power cycling any and all components. It simply will not output any audio once it loses the sound until I power the Anthem down and fire it back up.
> 
> 
> At first, I thought it was a quirky cable box. But this would not really explain why there would be no audio from even the built-in AM/FM tuner. I suppose it still could be the cable box causing the lockup. But I cannot understand how or why it is happening. And it is not consistently repeatable. But I did repeat the problem multiple times by the same methods. I have had issues with cable boxes and digital audio before, but nothing like this. Not to the point that the entire pre/pro gets so confused that it cannot "snap out of it".
> 
> 
> Any ideas? I tried switching the "Auto Digital" setting from on to off. This did not help. The funny thing to me is that the Anthem still shows that it is locked on to the Dolby Digital signal from the cable box. And it will change depending on the source...I can switch to BluRay and it will display TrueHD...or analog for the CD player....and back to DD on the cable input. But alas....silence.
> 
> 
> I am placing a call to Anthem tech. support monday. They have been awesome everytime I have called them. I am sure they can shed more light on the situation. I just wanted to chime in here where all the Anthem gurus tend to congregate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks and happy new year!



What firmware version are you using?


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10* /forum/post/17827676
> 
> 
> I am getting ready to add an anamorphic lens to my RS20 -- I know I have read that the D2v is anamorphic friendly...any links to specific posts/answers about properly setting it up?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Rather than using the anamorphic stretch in your RS20, you are probably better off doing all of the video processing within your D2v. In order to use an anamorphic lens with the D2v, you will want to go into the Video Settings Editor and go to to the Input menu. Select 'Custom' in the Crop Input Selection. Next, change the Vertical Size from '1080' to '817'.


Aram


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17830075
> 
> 
> Rather than using the anamorphic stretch in your RS20, you are probably better off doing all of the video processing within your D2v. In order to use an anamorphic lens with the D2v, you will want to go into the Video Settings Editor and go to to the Input menu. Select 'Custom' in the Crop Input Selection. Next, change the Vertical Size from '1080' to '817'.
> 
> 
> Aram



With this route, you need to do 2 memories, maybe dvd1 and dvd2, one is for anamorphic material and the other for 16:9 for the same input source. If you are using a 2.40 screen, the correct vertical value should be 810


----------



## Audiophiliac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17830067
> 
> 
> What firmware version are you using?



Updated to the latest as of tuesday. 2.08 I believe. Upgraded from 2.04c.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malcolmp6* /forum/post/17830964
> 
> 
> Bob or anyone please take a look at these snaps and let me know what could be wrong. Resolution from the D2v is messed up This is a new problem that has cropped up in my D2v. I have had it for 6 months. All cables are HDMI 1.3 a from Blue Jeans. Display is Sony 46 XBR4. Sources are Apple TV , Panasonic Blu-ray and Dune HD Base 3.0 media player.



It's pretty tough to get a result like this by a faulty setting in the D2v or any failure of the D2v, particularly since it is happening for the Setup menu and for multiple input sources.


So the most likely reason is that you have accidentally engaged a "zoom" mode on that input in your TV. It's easy enough to do. Check the zoom settings on your TV.


---------------------------------------


If you don't find an easy answer there, then Save your current settings in User or Installer Settings, then Reload Factory Defaults, and manually re-enter just the minimum settings to get video live to your display (Setup > Video Output). See if the Setup menu now looks correct.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiophiliac* /forum/post/17830013
> 
> 
> This may not be the proper thread to post this in, but worth a shot. I have a client with an AVM50v, Runco RS1100 Ultra, HD cable box (via component and toslink), etc. There has been issues since we first installed his system. Starting with the first AVM50 we had in there. There was HDMI switching issues and audio problems in some of the channels. Anthem kindly replaced it with an AVM50v. We put it in and even though the noise problems were gone, we still had HDMI issues. We discovered that this was caused by the LG combo player we had in the system. We swapped in a Panny BDP and everything started working for the most part.
> 
> 
> The issue we have now is that sometimes when changing channels on the HD cable box (Motorola via component and toslink), the Anthem drops the audio. It seems to still have a sync with the signal because the DD light will be lit up. But no sound period. And there is no sound from ANY source (Bluray, VCR, PS3, Xbox 360, Wii, AM/FM, CD). In no way, can I get sound from any source until I power cycle the Anthem. I have tried unplugging the cable box, removing the connections to the Anthem, power cycling any and all components. It simply will not output any audio once it loses the sound until I power the Anthem down and fire it back up.
> 
> 
> At first, I thought it was a quirky cable box. But this would not really explain why there would be no audio from even the built-in AM/FM tuner. I suppose it still could be the cable box causing the lockup. But I cannot understand how or why it is happening. And it is not consistently repeatable. But I did repeat the problem multiple times by the same methods. I have had issues with cable boxes and digital audio before, but nothing like this. Not to the point that the entire pre/pro gets so confused that it cannot "snap out of it".
> 
> 
> Any ideas? I tried switching the "Auto Digital" setting from on to off. This did not help. The funny thing to me is that the Anthem still shows that it is locked on to the Dolby Digital signal from the cable box. And it will change depending on the source...I can switch to BluRay and it will display TrueHD...or analog for the CD player....and back to DD on the cable input. But alas....silence.
> 
> 
> I am placing a call to Anthem tech. support monday. They have been awesome everytime I have called them. I am sure they can shed more light on the situation. I just wanted to chime in here where all the Anthem gurus tend to congregate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks and happy new year!



If you have not already installed the V2.08 firmware, then that should be your first step. There are bugs related to what you report that have been fixed in that firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Audiophiliac

Thanks Bob. I mentioned a few posts up that I updated the firmware to the current 2.08 and the audio issue still exists. I am not sure that this particular problem existed before the update. The client did not mention it specifically. Just that sometimes he got video but no audio or vice versa. One issue I think is with the Runco. Some of the Runcos we have installed will not lock on to the HDMI signal properly every time. But the digital audio issue has to be in the Anthem even if it is caused by something externally IMHO.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiophiliac* /forum/post/17832404
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I mentioned a few posts up that I updated the firmware to the current 2.08 and the audio issue still exists. I am not sure that this particular problem existed before the update. The client did not mention it specifically. Just that sometimes he got video but no audio or vice versa. One issue I think is with the Runco. Some of the Runcos we have installed will not lock on to the HDMI signal properly every time. But the digital audio issue has to be in the Anthem even if it is caused by something externally IMHO.


*Bob maybe you can guess better than me* - but I'm Guessing if the

Runco - via HDMI to the AVM-50v is not syncing with the AVM-50v

properly - even though the input sources is Component - and NOT HDMI,

that the LACK of proper Communications between the AVM-50v and the

Runco - may have the AVM-50v muting the Audio from any source.


Might that be POSSIBLE BOB?


----------



## jdswph

I'm having a problem with Anthem D2 accepting multi-channel SACD content over HDMI, after contacting Oppo the tech support said that unless the SACD has a LFE track the Anthem will show Stereo.


I hadn't had this issue before with the Oppo DV-983H - Oppo said on their previous players they created a fantom LFE track but are no longer doing this on the DBP-83.


I went through several of my SACDs and noticed only one had a LFE track, which played fine in 5.1.


Is there a way to work around this on the Anthem D2, besides hooking up the analouge cables?


Thanks,

David


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malcolmp6* /forum/post/17832956
> 
> 
> I tried changing the zoom settings on my display. It did not help.
> 
> I have attached a snap of my display at Normal (no Zoom).



Did you reset the D2v to factory defaults?


There are only two ways I can think of to get what you're showing:


1) Some zoom setting on the TV

2) A Crop/Zoom setting on the D2v menus


Resetting the D2v should fix #2.


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17797094
> 
> 
> If you have a recent set of settings saved in Saved User or Installer Settings then do this:
> 
> 
> 1) Power up the Anthem and Reload Factory Defaults.
> 
> 
> 2) Power off the Anthem and also cycle its rear panel power switch Off for about 10 seconds to insure everything is getting a fresh start.
> 
> 
> 3) Power up the Anthem and Reload Saved User or Installer Settings. If you don't have video you can do this using the Front Panel display. The pictures of the menus in the manual will help you navigate if you are not already familiar with how the Setup menus are laid out.
> 
> 
> 4) Now open up your most recent, good ARC results file in ARC's "Advanced" mode (where the charts are displayed) and just redo the Upload. No need to re-Measure or re-Calculate.
> 
> 
> 5) When the ARC Upload finishes, go back into Setup and look around to check that your Setup menu settings are as you expect them to be.
> 
> 
> 6) When you are comfortable everything is OK again, Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the values ARC has just Uploaded.
> 
> 
> This sort of failure in the D2 -- i.e., where an ARC Upload messes up other values in the Setup menu -- is pretty rare but it does happen in the V1.33 firmware.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I followed all of the above and to make a long story short it worked!! The only problem I have now is that the OSD still doesn't show up on my proj. screen. I'm using a JVC RS20 proj. and all I get is a black screen when I try to pull up the OSD. I've checked the HDMI cable and I unplugged all the hdmi leads before I did the factory restore.

Any thoughts on a fix before I call Nick on Monday or box it up for repair?


Ken


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17830020
> 
> 
> I have the C200 and the AVM50V



I think this may be OT so I sent you a PM


----------



## Audiophiliac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17833172
> 
> *Bob maybe you can guess better than me* - but I'm Guessing if the
> 
> Runco - via HDMI to the AVM-50v is not syncing with the AVM-50v
> 
> properly - even though the input sources is Component - and NOT HDMI,
> 
> that the LACK of proper Communications between the AVM-50v and the
> 
> Runco - may have the AVM-50v muting the Audio from any source.
> 
> 
> Might that be POSSIBLE BOB?



It is possible for that situation. I have seen stranger things being caused by a Runco PJ's HDMI implementation. However with the setup in this home, we are using component in and component out for the cable box. Only the Bluray and PS3 are HDMI in and out of the Anthem. We also have a composite feed up there for the VCR and Wii. So the HDMI should not be an issue with the devices that are not connected via HDMI, right?


I have had these Motorola boxes have audio problems. But they are usually fixed by changing the channel or rebooting the cable box. In this situation, neither of those fixes the audio. ONLY power cycling the Anthem.


----------



## malcolmp6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17833858
> 
> 
> Did you reset the D2v to factory defaults?
> 
> 
> There are only two ways I can think of to get what you're showing:
> 
> 
> 1) Some zoom setting on the TV
> 
> 2) A Crop/Zoom setting on the D2v menus
> 
> 
> Resetting the D2v should fix #2.



I reset the D2v to factory defaults. I also swapped HDMI cables just to be sure it is not a cable issue. Problem still persists. I have sent an e-mail to tech support. I am now 99% sure it is a D2v issue. Same sources when directly connected to my display look good.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiophiliac* /forum/post/17834579
> 
> 
> So the HDMI should not be an issue with the devices that are not connected via HDMI, right?



In Theory that is correct but you did say there were some HDMI

Sync issues with the Runco. Even though the source is Component,

the Runco HDMI hand shake could be do something nasty to the Anthem.


That is why I asked for Bob's HELP


----------



## husker du

Sorry to interrupt the current topic but I just wanted to share some additional info regarding version 2.08a. I loaded the beta version yesterday and indeed was getting deep colour support which, was not previously the case with my Epson projector. However, I had what appeared to be handshake issues with my PS3. Unfortunately, I went back to the "official" 2.08 software before reading one of Bob's previous posts regarding possible issues with HDMI connections 1 through 4 in version 2.08a. These issues may explain what I was seeing. I will try it again using an "unaffected" HDMI connection and report back.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17827425
> 
> 
> Maybe you have had good luck with Nvidia - but not me - I trust
> 
> ATI with HDMI more.
> 
> 
> In general 99% of all video cards are NOT 100% HDCP Compliant.
> 
> Maybe Some Day.



Plus one for ATI. I tried nvidia and found it had many handshake issues and driver problems for my hometheater needs.


----------



## ninja12

As the title shows, I am having some lip sync issues. I have the D2 v1.33 and the Oppo BDP-83 firmware version BDP83-40-0925. I have the following settings in the Oppo: Video Setup: 1080p24 Output=Auto, DVD 24p Conversion = off. I am really noticing them when I select Video Config 2 which is setup for 24fps. I have the following settings for Video Config 2: Same as 1: No, S-video osd: NTSC, Preferred: HDMI, resl'n: 1920x1080p24, Color space: HDTV, Data: YCbcr 4:4:4, Letterbox: Black, Sync: Normal, Compnt2 Out: Passthru. The movies that I have noticed the sync problems with are Hangover and Terminator Salvation. Has anyone else experienced these problems? If so, what did you do to resolve the problem?


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/17836596
> 
> 
> As the title shows, I am having some lip sync issues. I have the D2 v1.33 and the Oppo BDP-83 firmware version BDP83-40-0925. I have the following settings in the Oppo: Video Setup: 1080p24 Output=Auto, DVD 24p Conversion = off. I am really noticing them when I select Video Config 2 which is setup for 24fps. I have the following settings for Video Config 2: Same as 1: No, S-video osd: NTSC, Preferred: HDMI, resl'n: 1920x1080p24, Color space: HDTV, Data: YCbcr 4:4:4, Letterbox: Black, Sync: Normal, Compnt2 Out: Passthru. The movies that I have noticed the sync problems with are Hangover and Terminator Salvation. Has anyone else experienced these problems? If so, what did you do to resolve the problem?



Have you tried the lip sync on the D2? It's on Page 64 sec 4.9. Give this a read.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/17836596
> 
> 
> As the title shows, I am having some lip sync issues. I have the D2 v1.33 and the Oppo BDP-83 firmware version BDP83-40-0925. I have the following settings in the Oppo: Video Setup: 1080p24 Output=Auto, DVD 24p Conversion = off. I am really noticing them when I select Video Config 2 which is setup for 24fps. I have the following settings for Video Config 2: Same as 1: No, S-video osd: NTSC, Preferred: HDMI, resl'n: 1920x1080p24, Color space: HDTV, Data: YCbcr 4:4:4, Letterbox: Black, Sync: Normal, Compnt2 Out: Passthru. The movies that I have noticed the sync problems with are Hangover and Terminator Salvation. Has anyone else experienced these problems? If so, what did you do to resolve the problem?



I just watched Hangover two nights ago and also noticed slight lip sync issues. I have a D2 with similar output config as you. I have not noticed it on other movies. (I have a Sony BDP-S550 player)


Is it possible to have movie-specific lip sync issues?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17839374
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible to have movie-specific lip sync issues?



That would be my guess.


I watched Hangover on DVD with NO LIP SYNC problem on my

D2. I do not have the Blu-Ray version - but I have watched many

Blu-Ray Movies and NEVER seen a need for Lip-Sync.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/17839374
> 
> 
> I just watched Hangover two nights ago and also noticed slight lip sync issues. I have a D2 with similar output config as you. I have not noticed it on other movies. (I have a Sony BDP-S550 player)
> 
> 
> Is it possible to have movie-specific lip sync issues?



I forgot to add that when I switched back to Video Config 1, which is 60fps, the lip sync issue cleared up. So, it's only isolated to 24fps so far. However, I have seen a little lip sync with 60fps with the Oppo.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/17838545
> 
> 
> Have you tried the lip sync on the D2? It's on Page 64 sec 4.9. Give this a read.



I will check it out. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17827362
> 
> 
> VERY EASY solution - STOP using HDMI between Direct tv H-21 receiver
> 
> and AVM-50. You don't need HDMI - use Component = EXACT SAME
> 
> PQ and AQ and no handshaking - this solution has been repeated 100
> 
> times on this thread.



I'm sorry, I should have included: Any solution other than Component.


----------



## bluemark81

Anyone know the status of Dolby Volume?


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17841656
> 
> 
> Anyone know the status of Dolby Volume?



I think it is vaporware after waiting so long.


Happy New Year,

Tim


----------



## Johnsteph10

Thanks for the help, guys. So I'll let the D2v do the anamorphic duties rather than the projector (a JVC RS20) - am I right to assume that the D2v has better picture processing?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roomraider* /forum/post/17841628
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, I should have included: Any solution other than Component.



WHY - what is wrong with a solution that works?


Is It Religion?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17842863
> 
> 
> WHY - what is wrong with a solution that works?
> 
> 
> Is It Religion?



He may be of the mind that a digital connection between digital products is automatically better than an analog connection. This article calls that assumption into question.


I took a third route: the HDMI from the DirecTV DVR goes to the projector, and the S/PDIF audio goes to the AV processor. But since my processor has no video processing, I'm not missing anything.


----------



## hoehne

I have two questions for Anthem D2V savy users.


First...I am looking into obtaining an Anthem D2(V) for my home theater and a subwoofer. I am looking at the Martin Logan Descent i and the Velodyne DD-18 subs. The Velodyne has a built in capability to perform room measurents and then EQ the output to reduce standing wave frequencies, but the Martin Logan does not have this auto EQ.


Does the Anthem D2(V) with ARC equalize the subwoofer channel automatically essentially the same as what the DD-18 can do on its own or is the subwoofer LFE output on the Anthem not part of the ARC calibration?


Second...is there an update to the pricing to upgrade a D2 with ARC to a D2V? Financially, it may make more sense to buy a D2 today and upgrade in the future as money comes available, but if the upgrade is expensive, then it could be best to just outright purchase a D2V today. If there is a choice in upgrades, I would want the one that makes the D2 the D2V including any faceplates or other changes.


Thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/17845309
> 
> 
> I have two questions for Anthem D2V savy users.
> 
> 
> First...I am looking into obtaining an Anthem D2(V) for my home theater and a subwoofer. I am looking at the Martin Logan Descent i and the Velodyne DD-18 subs. The Velodyne has a built in capability to perform room measurents and then EQ the output to reduce standing wave frequencies, but the Martin Logan does not have this auto EQ.
> 
> 
> Does the Anthem D2(V) with ARC equalize the subwoofer channel automatically essentially the same as what the DD-18 can do on its own or is the subwoofer LFE output on the Anthem not part of the ARC calibration?
> 
> 
> Second...is there an update to the pricing to upgrade a D2 with ARC to a D2V? Financially, it may make more sense to buy a D2 today and upgrade in the future as money comes available, but if the upgrade is expensive, then it could be best to just outright purchase a D2V today. If there is a choice in upgrades, I would want the one that makes the D2 the D2V including any faceplates or other changes.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



To use ARC - you want to NOT Use the DD-18 correction.


I believe the upgrade option pricing is not attractive.


----------



## hoehne




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17845400
> 
> 
> To use ARC - you want to NOT Use the DD-18 correction.
> 
> 
> I believe the upgrade option pricing is not attractive.





So if I read between the lines, the D2 with EQ the subwoofer channel using the ARC and as a result, you will obtain a fully EQ'ed subwoofer using the ARC and the DD-18 (without internal EQ). This method would allow me to use a Martin Logan or Velodyne DD sub and obtain the same end result of an EQ'ed output to remove the peakiness.


Any pros or cons from anyone who may have used a DD-18 or Martin Logan Descent i in this setup?


Anyone else know where the pricing on the upgrade comes out? The only other post in this thread mentioned $2200, but that was prior to the actual release of the upgrade option.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/17846016
> 
> 
> So if I read between the lines, the D2 with EQ the subwoofer channel using the ARC and as a result, you will obtain a fully EQ'ed subwoofer using the ARC and the DD-18 (without internal EQ). This method would allow me to use a Martin Logan or Velodyne DD sub and obtain the same end result of an EQ'ed output to remove the peakiness.



Just think about room correction from a Common Sense

point of view.


You can only have one room correction working at any

one time.


If I make a correction one way and you make a correction

your way - what do we end up with.


Garbage is the answer. There can only be one BOSS










DD-18 correction works if that is the ONLY room correction

working.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/17846016
> 
> 
> ... This method would allow me to use a Martin Logan or Velodyne DD sub and obtain the same end result of an EQ'ed output to remove the peakiness *(Reduce, not Remove Peaks and Nulls)*.
> 
> 
> Any pros or cons from anyone who may have used a DD-18 or Martin Logan Descent i in this setup?



The D2V/ARC will correct all of your speakers to a point. The less work you give it (and other similar devices) the better it will work (e.g. proper speaker placement, room reflections, room treatments, etc.). The D2V/ARC does not give you much control over XO slope selections, just XO points.


The DD-18 uses a single large 18-inch cone. The Descent uses 3 smaller 8-inch cones all firing against/towards a common vertical axis. Being such, the DD-18 maybe more fun for HT, but the Descent maybe more appropriate for Music depending on the characteristics of your other speakers.


I have both a Descent (D2V/ARC) and a Descent i (DEQX 3.0). I bypass all of the Sub's user controls and control them externally by devices that integrate the whole room and system, not just the sub.


HTH,

Tim


----------



## hoehne

Everyone, thanks for the info. I completely understand you can't use two forms of EQ correction and placement is key, I was just trying to weigh in on whether the DD-18 was a better value if I used a D2 processor.


The general concensus in my mind is that the ML Descent i is a great sub for movies and music and given proper placement, the D2 room correction system will do as much for the sub setup as a DD-18 connected to a non-D2 processor without room correction.


I think I am leaning towards the ML. Now I just need to figure out if I buy a D2 today and upgrade later or a D2V once the used prices are more comfortable. Just need that elusive upgrade price.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/17846325
> 
> 
> Now I just need to figure out if I buy a D2 today and upgrade later or a D2V once the used prices are more comfortable. Just need that elusive upgrade price.



I have been a D2 Owner almost since DAY-1.


I added ARC to the D2 when it became available.


Everyone who has upgraded from the D2 to a D2v has been

Happy with the Improvements. Call me CHEAP if you want

but I'm still VERY HAPPY







with the D2+ARC and don't

see the need to spend the EXTRA money to upgrade.

*NOW WITH THAT SAID* - If I did not OWN an Anthem,

I would be buying the D2v or AVM-50v.


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17846398
> 
> 
> I have been a D2 Owner almost since DAY-1.
> 
> 
> I added ARC to the D2 when it became available.
> 
> 
> Everyone who has upgraded from the D2 to a D2v has been
> 
> Happy with the Improvements. Call me CHEAP if you want
> 
> but I'm still VERY HAPPY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with the D2+ARC and don't
> 
> see the need to spend the EXTRA money to upgrade.
> 
> *NOW WITH THAT SAID* - If I did not OWN an Anthem,
> 
> I would be buying the D2v or AVM-50v.



im waiting for the D3 with the HDMI 1.4, 3D surround


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *osofast240sx* /forum/post/17846413
> 
> 
> im waiting for the D3 with the HDMI 1.4, 3D surround



Same here but I didn't want to confuse people

in THINKING that was just around the corner.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17846438
> 
> 
> Same here but I didn't want to confuse people
> 
> in THINKING that was just around the corner.



How do you know it isn't ???


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17846526
> 
> 
> How do you know it isn't ???



There are ONLY a FEW things I know and that is one of them


----------



## Kensmith48

I did a search and it looks like the D2 upgrade is approx. $3900 w/arc and $4200 without.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17846899
> 
> 
> I did a search and it looks like the D2 upgrade is approx. $3900 w/arc and $4200 without.



Remember that this is not an UPGRADE per se (as in you get your old D2 back with some new components) but a TRADE-IN.


You receive a new piece of equipment, new serial number, new ARC microphone, new warranty.


$4000 is a lot of cash, but Anthem's not making much profit on this. I don't know if the left over D2s will have any value.


----------



## rosewood1




From Home Theater:


"...In terms of video performance, the D2v is untouchable.


This said, there are some drawbacks to the D2v. For starters, it's way too complicated for most end users. While I appreciate the sheer level of control and customization the D2v offers, the way it goes about it is messy. The menus are lousy, the wording is a bit obtuse at times and the remote and hard controls will make you batty. If you are thinking of purchasing a D2v, be sure your dealer installs it for you ....


Next up, while I think the ARC system is a revelation, coming closer than any auto EQ I've encountered to removing one's room from the sound equation, it too is far too complicated. I'm glad the ARC system comes standard with the D2v, but I can't imagine the majority of customers will tweak much past the Anthem-recommended settings...."


Since I am only interested in the audio aspects [my bd and dvr go directly to the hdtv], I have no interest in laying out that kind of cash for an audio processor. So I got a AVM 40 for 1200 and it will cost me 800 for the firmware or "new motherboard" and ARC. Thus I will have an audio processor for Alpha DAC fed 2 channel, dvr and bd fed 5.1 channel, or both together with optimizations by ARC for each playback mode.


This is being done by a custom installer, since the manual by Anthem is so lacking in detail and thoroughness and because the setup menu is so cumbersome, as noted by the HT author above.


So, buyer beware before you lay down 7.5k for a processor with ARC that requires you to be an audio engineer to set up and test [I suggest that the contributors here are an elite group of audio experts that are not representative of the general population of Anthem buyers]. There are a lot cheaper approaches than getting all of that video power if you do not need it.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rosewood1* /forum/post/17849631
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From Home Theater:
> 
> 
> "...In terms of video performance, the D2v is untouchable.
> 
> 
> This said, there are some drawbacks to the D2v. For starters, it's way too complicated for most end users. While I appreciate the sheer level of control and customization the D2v offers, the way it goes about it is messy. The menus are lousy, the wording is a bit obtuse at times and the remote and hard controls will make you batty. If you are thinking of purchasing a D2v, be sure your dealer installs it for you ....
> 
> 
> Next up, while I think the ARC system is a revelation, coming closer than any auto EQ I've encountered to removing one's room from the sound equation, it too is far too complicated. I'm glad the ARC system comes standard with the D2v, but I can't imagine the majority of customers will tweak much past the Anthem-recommended settings...."
> 
> 
> Since I am only interested in the audio aspects [my bd and dvr go directly to the hdtv], I have no interest in laying out that kind of cash for an audio processor. So I got a AVM 40 for 1200 and it will cost me 800 for the firmware or "new motherboard" and ARC. Thus I will have an audio processor for Alpha DAC fed 2 channel, dvr and bd fed 5.1 channel, or both together with optimizations by ARC for each playback mode.
> 
> 
> This is being done by a custom installer, since the manual by Anthem is so lacking in detail and thoroughness and because the setup menu is so cumbersome, as noted by the HT author above.
> 
> 
> So, buyer beware before you lay down 7.5k for a processor with ARC that requires you to be an audio engineer to set up and test [I suggest that the contributors here are an elite group of audio experts that are not representative of the general population of Anthem buyers]. There are a lot cheaper approaches than getting all of that video power if you do not need it.



They said the similar thing about the D2; but, I didn't have any problems setting mine up.


----------



## Kensmith48

If people are paying upwards of $6000 for a D2 and then trade up for a D2v for another $4000. I would think at $10,000+ someone is making plenty of $$$.


----------



## Michael_V

Okay, yes, people are paying a lot of money for these.


I was finally able to update my AVM50v firmware to 2.08. ARC worked great!


But ...


Seriously?


Still no AppleTV through HDMI?


What in the world? Am I missing something? Why hasn't this been fixed yet?


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17849723
> 
> 
> If people are paying upwards of $6000 for a D2 and then trade up for a D2v for another $4000. I would think at $10,000+ someone is making plenty of $$$.



the most ive seen a D2 for is $3500, $6000 and under is the street price for the D2v


----------



## Kensmith48

The $6000+ I refered to for a D2 was the amount paid when the unit was new or 1st came out.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17849920
> 
> 
> The $6000+ I refered to for a D2 was the amount paid when the unit was new or 1st came out.



That explains things better - thanks


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rosewood1* /forum/post/17849631
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From Home Theater:
> 
> 
> "...In terms of video performance, the D2v is untouchable.
> 
> 
> This said, there are some drawbacks to the D2v. For starters, it's way too complicated for most end users. While I appreciate the sheer level of control and customization the D2v offers, the way it goes about it is messy. The menus are lousy, the wording is a bit obtuse at times and the remote and hard controls will make you batty. If you are thinking of purchasing a D2v, be sure your dealer installs it for you ....
> 
> 
> Next up, while I think the ARC system is a revelation, coming closer than any auto EQ I've encountered to removing one's room from the sound equation, it too is far too complicated. I'm glad the ARC system comes standard with the D2v, but I can't imagine the majority of customers will tweak much past the Anthem-recommended settings...."
> 
> 
> Since I am only interested in the audio aspects [my bd and dvr go directly to the hdtv], I have no interest in laying out that kind of cash for an audio processor. So I got a AVM 40 for 1200 and it will cost me 800 for the firmware or "new motherboard" and ARC. Thus I will have an audio processor for Alpha DAC fed 2 channel, dvr and bd fed 5.1 channel, or both together with optimizations by ARC for each playback mode.
> 
> 
> This is being done by a custom installer, since the manual by Anthem is so lacking in detail and thoroughness and because the setup menu is so cumbersome, as noted by the HT author above.
> 
> 
> So, buyer beware before you lay down 7.5k for a processor with ARC that requires you to be an audio engineer to set up and test [I suggest that the contributors here are an elite group of audio experts that are not representative of the general population of Anthem buyers]. There are a lot cheaper approaches than getting all of that video power if you do not need it.



Sorry but this is bollocks. While the D2/D2v has sophisticated options that enthusiasts appreciate and take advantage of, it is extremely easy to setup and achieve 99% of its capability without being an audio engineer.


----------



## jayray

I went from a Denon 3803 to the D2v, and had no problems. I had more problems setting up a Denon 1610 in my family room. Talk about awful menus. As for the D2v and ARC, is it too much to ask people to read their manual. Given the capabilities of the unit, is it that surprising it might take some time to learn? In spite of some bugs, the majority of the time I just enjoy astounding sound and video.

John


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17849858
> 
> 
> Okay, yes, people are paying a lot of money for these.
> 
> 
> I was finally able to update my AVM50v firmware to 2.08. ARC worked great!
> 
> 
> But ...
> 
> 
> Seriously?
> 
> 
> Still no AppleTV through HDMI?
> 
> 
> What in the world? Am I missing something? Why hasn't this been fixed yet?



The screen is dark red ... not shocking pink ... and there is no text of any kind when using AppleTV into HDMI.


All the other inputs work perfectly.


Can I get some help?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rosewood1* /forum/post/17849631
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From Home Theater:
> 
> 
> "...In terms of video performance, the D2v is untouchable.
> 
> 
> This said, there are some drawbacks to the D2v. For starters, it's way too complicated for most end users. While I appreciate the sheer level of control and customization the D2v offers, the way it goes about it is messy. The menus are lousy, the wording is a bit obtuse at times and the remote and hard controls will make you batty. If you are thinking of purchasing a D2v, be sure your dealer installs it for you ....
> 
> 
> Next up, while I think the ARC system is a revelation, coming closer than any auto EQ I've encountered to removing one's room from the sound equation, it too is far too complicated. I'm glad the ARC system comes standard with the D2v, but I can't imagine the majority of customers will tweak much past the Anthem-recommended settings...."
> 
> 
> Since I am only interested in the audio aspects [my bd and dvr go directly to the hdtv], I have no interest in laying out that kind of cash for an audio processor. So I got a AVM 40 for 1200 and it will cost me 800 for the firmware or "new motherboard" and ARC. Thus I will have an audio processor for Alpha DAC fed 2 channel, dvr and bd fed 5.1 channel, or both together with optimizations by ARC for each playback mode.
> 
> 
> This is being done by a custom installer, since the manual by Anthem is so lacking in detail and thoroughness and because the setup menu is so cumbersome, as noted by the HT author above.
> 
> 
> So, buyer beware before you lay down 7.5k for a processor with ARC that requires you to be an audio engineer to set up and test [I suggest that the contributors here are an elite group of audio experts that are not representative of the general population of Anthem buyers]. There are a lot cheaper approaches than getting all of that video power if you do not need it.



Although I am an engineer, I really do not believe the D2v/AVM50v is much more complicated than some of the other components on the market. For example, look at Denons setups and manuals. D2v "Cumbersome?" Definitely not.


Except for a few initial bugs/growing pains, I found the D2v extremely easy, flexible and straight forward to set up. Is it for everyone? Absolutely not. It is for those who want the best but also for those who don't mind tweaking and doing a bit of research to use the D2v to its full potential. And, ARC is certainly not complicated. It couldn't be easier to run ARC as it basically feeds you through the process.


And I firmly believe most people laying down $7500 for a D2v are not doing so on a whim. They have thoroughly researched the product and are prepared to take on those extra efforts to get the most out of their purchase.


If the AVM40/ARC is all you require, that is a very fine pre/pro as well, but I would not take the words of one reviewer in discounting the D2v and advising everyone else against it because it does not suit you. Have a look at all the very positive accolades, reviews and rewards that the D2/D2v has received. I even believe Home Theater itself has it listed as one of their "recommended high end components."


----------



## mlfeatherston

What is an approximate cost to add ARC to an AVM-50? Trying to decide if I'd rather do that, or sell my 50 to get a 50v. A few posts up implied around $800 to add it to an AVM-40 - that seems like a pretty good deal if that's true. That would make it a lot harder to justify moving up to a 50v.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlfeatherston* /forum/post/17851609
> 
> 
> What is an approximate cost to add ARC to an AVM-50? Trying to decide if I'd rather do that, or sell my 50 to get a 50v. A few posts up implied around $800 to add it to an AVM-40 - that seems like a pretty good deal if that's true. That would make it a lot harder to justify moving up to a 50v.



In my view, trading in the AVM50 to get the AVM50v would be the better choice. I traded in my AVM30 for $1500 toward the price of the 50v. I ended up paying under $3300 for the 50v (tax included). The 8-HDMI ports and superior video processing along with ARC (a $400 value) did it for me. I couldn't justify the D2v as both the 50v and D2v were deemed sonically transparent in numerous A/V reviews when processing high resolution audion and video sources.


Trading in your AVM50 should get you a much better price since its way newer than my original AVM30. IMHO, go for the 50v. Its the best DEAL for the PRICE. You'll never regret it.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17836361
> 
> 
> Plus one for ATI. I tried nvidia and found it had many handshake issues and driver problems for my hometheater needs.



The new ATI 5xxx serie works flawlessly with the Anthem D2V. No need for a fancy audio card anymore to get HD bitstreaming over HDMI.


I managed to get full blu-ray playback with DTS-MA and True-HD bitstreaming with the D2V. The only important thing is to use Catalyst 9.12 hotfix.


This solution works for PDVD9 and probably with WinDVD not with TMT3 that cannot support ATI HD bitstreaming at this point. A free solution using ffdshow is being developed. It currently only works for TrueHD bitstreaming.


Considering that a 5750 is only 150$ this is a cheap way to finally get constant and stable playback with HD bitstreaming from a PC.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17846526
> 
> 
> How do you know it isn't ???



This way too early, comme back in 2011.










In the mean time the D2V is amazing!


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlfeatherston* /forum/post/17851609
> 
> 
> What is an approximate cost to add ARC to an AVM-50? Trying to decide if I'd rather do that, or sell my 50 to get a 50v. A few posts up implied around $800 to add it to an AVM-40 - that seems like a pretty good deal if that's true. That would make it a lot harder to justify moving up to a 50v.




To answer the simple question....


Adding ARC for the D2 is only $400 I believe


Isn't the price the same for the AVM50 ? or do you have to add another board...?


----------



## Kensmith48

In my opinion if the manuals for the processors & arc were so detailed then why all the questions on this forum?

I think the arc manual is lacking in all aspects of what your readings mean and directions on how to change anything. The only thing the arc instructions cover is the setup. For instance the red line is what my room produced but am I supposed to improve on the red line or has arc fixed everything as the green and blue lines indicate? What's the purpose of changing the room gain and the frequency? I thought arc fixed all of this also. I think anthem could have went into more detail regarding the arc results and what to do or look for as far as the results.

When arc screwed up my osd nobody had any ideas for a fix. I figured it out by trial and error but what a pita.

I'm glad a forum exists for all the help I've rec'd but shouldn't the manuals cover more than they do? I'd hate to go it alone and not know about this forum because I think I'd be returning my D2.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17853844
> 
> 
> To answer the simple question....
> 
> 
> Adding ARC for the D2 is only $400 I believe
> 
> 
> Isn't the price the same for the AVM50 ? or do you have to add another board...?



The DSP board has to be changed. The old one doesn't have enough horse power. It is usually done by the dealer and they usually add a small charge. Thus the difference from $400 to $800


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17850356
> 
> 
> The screen is dark red ... not shocking pink ... and there is no text of any kind when using AppleTV into HDMI.
> 
> 
> All the other inputs work perfectly.
> 
> 
> Can I get some help?



Still nothing? Anyone else having trouble getting their Anthem to play nice with AppleTV?


Anyone?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17856717
> 
> 
> Still nothing? Anyone else having trouble getting their Anthem to play nice with AppleTV?
> 
> 
> Anyone?



My D2 has been playing nice with AppleTV for 2 Years.


I don't use HDMI










That is because HDMI is still BROKEN on AppleTV - NOT the Anthem.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17856717
> 
> 
> Still nothing? Anyone else having trouble getting their Anthem to play nice with AppleTV?
> 
> 
> Anyone?



I am not sure if it was 2.07a but the HDMI issue with the Apple TV was fixed already. I have been using HDMI for the last several months with no problem. Why not try to update the firmware of the AppleTV using component first and when everything is with the latest firmware, try the HDMI route again.


Be sure that the HDMI port on the Apple works by directly attaching it to your display device first.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17857309
> 
> 
> I am not sure if it was 2.07a but the HDMI issue with the Apple TV was fixed already. I have been using HDMI for the last several months with no problem. Why not try to update the firmware of the AppleTV using component first and when everything is with the latest firmware, try the HDMI route again.
> 
> 
> Be sure that the HDMI port on the Apple works by directly attaching it to your display device first.



Even if some magic FW somewhere does get it to work - it is another

CASE of NOT NEEDING IT.


AppleTV Content is NEVER EVER more than 720p and Audio is

NEVER EVER MORE than DD 5.1.


Even if AppleTV HDMI works at 1080p - who do you want to do

the scaling from 720p to 1080p - Apple or Anthem. I keep my

vote with Anthem - so I always use AppleTV set to output 720p

with DD over Optical.


----------



## lalarsons

Check post 22988 for D2 Apple TV compatibility




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17856807
> 
> 
> My D2 has been playing nice with AppleTV for 2 Years.
> 
> 
> I don't use HDMI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is because HDMI is still BROKEN on AppleTV - NOT the Anthem.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lalarsons* /forum/post/17859095
> 
> 
> Check post 22988 for D2 Apple TV compatibility



It would have been much nicer to post the *LINK*


But since I'm running ONLY the OFFICIAL FW Release 1.33 - it

still does not work and Version 1.47f is just TEST FW.


And it does not change my analysis that HDMI for AppleTV is

NOT NEEDED. It is nice that Anthem went the Extra mile.


I hooked AppleTV via HDMI direct to an Apply Cinema Display

and I could not get the TWO APPLE DEVICES to work together.

Even AppleCare Admited to me they had an HDMI problem with

AppleTV.


----------



## jayray

I'm not sure why people are so hooked on HDMI for video. It hasn't improved the video for any source I've tried it on compared to component and I don't have to mention the syncing problems we have all faced with hdmi









John


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17860933
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why people are so hooked on HDMI for video. It hasn't improved the video for any source I've tried it on compared to component and I don't have to mention the syncing problems we have all faced with hdmi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



1) HD audio (TrueHD, DTS-HD/MA, 7.1 LPCM) is only possible over HDMI

2) One cable >>> 4 to 8 cables for each component

3) Fewer digital-to-analog-to-digital conversions, allowing the best VP (D2v) and the TV only to do that work


And there are more, but the above are big enough reasons.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17861375
> 
> 
> 1) HD audio (TrueHD, DTS-HD/MA, 7.1 LPCM) is only possible over HDMI
> 
> 2) One cable >>> 4 to 8 cables for each component
> 
> 3) Fewer digital-to-analog-to-digital conversions, allowing the best VP (D2v) and the TV only to do that work
> 
> 
> And there are more, but the above are big enough reasons.



Fewer cables are great if you're not having issues with syncing. I am aware of lossless audio but there are alternatives if # of cables isn't a concern. I use only hdmi but I don't have issues with my sources, even my SA 8300 pvr works with hdmi but for many others it doesn't.

John


----------



## jayray

For all the Oppo owners on this thread, the latest official firmware has been released (Jan.5)

John


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17861471
> 
> 
> Fewer cables are great if you're not having issues with syncing. I am aware of lossless audio but there are alternatives if # of cables isn't a concern. I use only hdmi but I don't have issues with my sources, even my SA 8300 pvr works with hdmi but for many others it doesn't.
> 
> John



Not accurate anymore, I found a workaround for the SA8300 pvr.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17859206
> 
> 
> It would have been much nicer to post the *LINK*
> 
> 
> But since I'm running ONLY the OFFICIAL FW Release 1.33 - it
> 
> still does not work and Version 1.47f is just TEST FW.
> 
> 
> And it does not change my analysis that HDMI for AppleTV is
> 
> NOT NEEDED. It is nice that Anthem went the Extra mile.
> 
> 
> I hooked AppleTV via HDMI direct to an Apply Cinema Display
> 
> and I could not get the TWO APPLE DEVICES to work together.
> 
> Even AppleCare Admited to me they had an HDMI problem with
> 
> AppleTV.



You are still running 1.33!


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17861471
> 
> 
> Fewer cables are great if you're not having issues with syncing. I am aware of lossless audio but there are alternatives if # of cables isn't a concern. I use only hdmi but I don't have issues with my sources, even my SA 8300 pvr works with hdmi but for many others it doesn't.
> 
> John



I have three devices that can produce lossless audio. What are my alternatives? There aren't any. Maybe I could do one over the multi-channel analog input, using 10 cables instead of one, but why would I bother? And what do I do with the other devices?


HDMI works great, has fewer D/A conversions, and is a single cable.

*The better question is: Why would anyone use anything other than HDMI?*


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17861634
> 
> 
> Not accurate anymore, I found a workaround for the SA8300 pvr.



What is the workaround?

John


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17861761
> 
> *The better question is: Why would anyone use anything other than HDMI?*



When using a device (Apple TV, any of the TV boxes that only put out stereo AC3 audio and max 1080i video) where one has better things to do than wait for an HDCP handshake?


For all other devices, sure - HDMI is essential. But if you look at the questions in here about devices and the D2/AVM50, the majority are still DVD and set top television boxes. BluRay, HTPC, NMT and other devices that can truly use the features of HDMI are growing but still in the minority.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17862398
> 
> 
> When using a device (Apple TV, any of the TV boxes that only put out stereo AC3 audio and max 1080i video) where one has better things to do than wait for an HDCP handshake?
> 
> 
> For all other devices, sure - HDMI is essential. But if you look at the questions in here about devices and the D2/AVM50, the majority are still DVD and set top television boxes. BluRay, HTPC, NMT and other devices that can truly use the features of HDMI are growing but still in the minority.



What kind of delay are you seeing? I have about 2 seconds, only when changing input resolutions. In your examples, that would only happen when you change source devices - e.g. AppleTV is always 720p (or whatever you set it to), right? Only the Tivo supports Native, and maybe some other DVRs. And even then, it's all of ~2 seconds at the beginning of a program.


Hey, I have a major issue with wasting my time, but the 2-second HDMI handshake has never been one of them. Back when it was ~8 seconds, it was a bigger issue, but component resolution changes weren't much faster.


And I'd be surprised if most/many of us spending the cash on a D2v, don't also have a BluRay, and some sort of HTPC/PCH/media streaming device.


Anyway, unless I'm missing something, I still don't get why anyone wouldn't use HDMI when they can?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17862524
> 
> 
> What kind of delay are you seeing? I have about 2 seconds, only when changing input resolutions. In your examples, that would only happen when you change source devices - e.g. AppleTV is always 720p (or whatever you set it to), right? Only the Tivo supports Native, and maybe some other DVRs. And even then, it's all of ~2 seconds at the beginning of a program.
> 
> 
> Hey, I have a major issue with wasting my time, but the 2-second HDMI handshake has never been one of them. Back when it was ~8 seconds, it was a bigger issue, but component resolution changes weren't much faster.
> 
> 
> And I'd be surprised if most/many of us spending the cash on a D2v, don't also have a BluRay, and some sort of HTPC/PCH/media streaming device.
> 
> 
> Anyway, unless I'm missing something, I still don't get why anyone wouldn't use HDMI when they can?



I agree with your last statement. I only had a problem with hdmi if people stick with it when it is problematic and don't want to use component if it does work. Of course this is not for devices which have lossless sound where hdmi is more convenient. It seems cable boxes come up more than other sources.

John


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17862670
> 
> 
> I agree with your last statement. I only had a problem with hdmi if people stick with it when it is problematic and don't want to use component if it does work. Of course this is not for devices which have lossless sound where hdmi is more convenient. It seems cable boxes come up more than other sources.
> 
> John



Ah, for cable boxes I don't get why everyone isn't using a Tivo HD or HD XL! And the Tivo has never had a problem with my D2v.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17862105
> 
> 
> What is the workaround?
> 
> John



Greetings,


John I found that installing this HDMI switch between the Anthem and Scientific Atlanta 8300HD seamlessly solves the endless reboot problem.



Regards,


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17863758
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> John I found that installing this HDMI switch between the Anthem and Scientific Atlanta 8300HD seamlessly solves the endless reboot problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,

Looks like something from star trek







Good to know if I do run into someone who has this problem.

John


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17862105
> 
> 
> What is the workaround?
> 
> John


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post17679139


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17862756
> 
> 
> Ah, for cable boxes I don't get why everyone isn't using a Tivo HD or HD XL! And the Tivo has never had a problem with my D2v.



Because Jay and myself we reside in a country where the cable companies are so strong politically that they blocked The HD market for Tivo and cable card.


----------



## gonzalc3

Does anyone know how does the Room gain option in the Advance Setup menu work in ARC?


In other words, if one raises or decreases the figure, how does it affect the curves?


Thanks,


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17871202
> 
> 
> Because Jay and myself we reside in a country where the cable companies are so strong politically that they blocked The HD market for Tivo and cable card.



Now you know why the U.S. Broke away from the British Empire


----------



## WestCoastD

everything cool with the AVM50V these days? Are all the bugs/issues worked out?


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob and others.

I recently upgraded my speakers and amp and run the arc again.

Would you folks please look at it and let me know the results. My center speaker is low at the floor level. I have it tilted up towards the listenning position. That is why my center speaker's freq responce is low between 300 and 5000. But all drivers work normal unless there is another possibilty that I don't know. Please comment.

Also due to Dolby specifications the LFE will be lowered by 10db from players to prevent the damage. Is this 10db raised in d2v to output normal LFE?

I have JL F113 sub which has 2 options for vollume. One is to set it at reference and the vollume knob does not work on the sub and the other option is to adjust the vollume on the sub. On the knob it goes from -infinity to 12 oclock (which is 0 and JL calls it reference level) then to 5:00 oclock which is maximum. When I ran arc I had the vollume knob set to 10:00 oclock to get 75 db aligned with other speakers. After I uploaded the arc, the subwoofer vollume is way too low. Basically there is very little base comes out of sub. I had to raise the vollume on the sub to about 1:00 oclock to get adequate base. I am not sure if this is due to the Dolby -10db reduction or it has something to do with the 12:00 oclock reference level. Reference level means the sub's output is the same as the source. If you guys have the same sub or have any idea please let me know. I appreciate every one's comments.

Thanks,

 

Arc 1.doc 123.5k . file

 

Arc 2.doc 123k . file

 

Arc 3.doc 135k . file


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17871580
> 
> 
> Now you know why the U.S. Broke away from the British Empire



British Empire?!? Don't start me.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WestCoastD* /forum/post/17871906
> 
> 
> everything cool with the AVM50V these days? Are all the bugs/issues worked out?



For me yes. In fact this is getting boring I need new stuff to test.


----------



## Tolstoi

Talking about new stuff now the ATI 5xxx video bitstream DTSS MA to the D2V using ffdshow flawlessly.


I don't want to start a pissing contest but the interesting thing is that the bug was created because of Onkyo's receiver!


Most of the peoples involved in the development of ffdshow are using Onkyo receiver. They tested DTS MA bitstream with their receiver though it was a done deal while on my side I could not bitstream DTS MA to the D2V. After weeks of playing new drivers and EDID override etc, and realizing that this was working with PDVD9, and finally pioneer receiver users started to complain about the same issue they find out the DTS MA bitstream packaging from ffdshow was wrong important information missing but the Onkyo could care less about a non standard DTS MA bitstream and was just playing the thing instead of rejecting.


Now this is fixe and there is free solution for full Blu-Ray placback on HTPC that work with the D2V. MPC with ffdshow.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17872444
> 
> 
> 
> Now this is fixe and there is free solution for full Blu-Ray placback on HTPC that work with the D2V. MPC with ffdshow.



It is really FIXED?


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17872444
> 
> 
> Talking about new stuff now the ATI 5xxx video bitstream DTSS MA to the D2V using ffdshow flawlessly.
> 
> 
> I don't want to start a pissing contest but the interesting thing is that the bug was created because of Onkyo's receiver!
> 
> 
> Most of the peoples involved in the development of ffdshow are using Onkyo receiver. They tested DTS MA bitstream with their receiver though it was a done deal while on my side I could not bitstream DTS MA to the D2V. After weeks of playing new drivers and EDID override etc, and realizing that this was working with PDVD9, and finally pioneer receiver users started to complain about the same issue they find out the DTS MA bitstream packaging from ffdshow was wrong important information missing but the Onkyo could care less about a non standard DTS MA bitstream and was just playing the thing instead of rejecting.
> 
> 
> Now this is fixe and there is free solution for full Blu-Ray placback on HTPC that work with the D2V. MPC with ffdshow.



"Free" except for the PC part of it...


You could spend a lot less, and get a PCH-A110 that has had full HD audio and video bitstreaming for ages, and works flawlessly, and works with a 10-foot UI and regular universal remote.


As much as I want a HTPC to work, we're still a long way away from it being usable by anyone other than the person who set it up.


----------



## Tolstoi

One last thing Blu-Ray playback from HTPC it is a secondary option for Zone A Blu-Ray. For most of the movies I am using a Pioneer 05FD.


Now that this is working really well with Bitstreaming, I will more and more use the HTPC for Disney movies. With this thing I could start playing Monster Inc in seconds instead of minutes with a stand alone Player.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17872501
> 
> 
> "Free" except for the PC part of it...
> 
> 
> You could spend a lot less, and get a PCH-A110 that has had full HD audio and video bitstreaming for ages, and works flawlessly, and works with a 10-foot UI and regular universal remote.
> 
> 
> As much as I want a HTPC to work, we're still a long way away from it being usable by anyone other than the person who set it up.



With the PCH-A110 you still need a PC to scan the Audio/video material. I convert all my CDs in FLAC by will not store my Blu-Ray on a servers. Too long and 600*40gb = 30 TB way too much storage space.


Until Popcorn come up with someting that could read direclty Blu-Ray and de-zone them we stuck having to use a pc somewhere anyway.


At least with the ati 5xxx series we dont need to pay for extra software.


I am planing on improving usability with User accounts. One for HDDVD, one for Music, One for Blu-Ray.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17872462
> 
> 
> It is really FIXED?



Yes


I don't think it is alreay in main branch but will be soon, it is available in the beta development branch.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17872583
> 
> 
> With the PCH-A110 you still need a PC to scan the Audio/video material. I convert all my CDs in FLAC by will not store my Blu-Ray on a servers. Too long and 600*40gb = 30 TB way too much storage space.
> 
> 
> Until Popcorn come up with someting that could read direclty Blu-Ray and de-zone them we stuck having to use a pc somewhere anyway.
> 
> 
> At least with the ati 5xxx series we dont need to pay for extra software.
> 
> 
> I am planing on improving usability with User accounts. One for HDDVD, one for Music, One for Blu-Ray.



Well, there's no way my HTPC could also be my main PC, as I don't work in my HT equipment closet. I'd imagine this is true for most folks.


So to use a HTPC, you're using something mostly dedicated to your HT. You still have your main PC for ripping, etc.


You're also waaaay over estimating the storage needed. If you rip the movie out (which is the only thing that makes sense - BluRays are the worst in terms of additional garbage) - you're looking at 15-30GB max, with an average closer to 18-20GB per movie. For 600 movies that's only about 11TB.


And hard disk storage for movies is fairly cheap - about 0.07/GB, or about $1-$2 per BD movie. You can't beat instant access to every movie you own, especially for that price. When you're spending $10-$20 on the BD already, what's another buck?


----------



## Kensmith48

There's a thread called "Home Theater Computers" under the Video components section.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17872225
> 
> 
> Hello Bob and others.
> 
> I recently upgraded my speakers and amp and run the arc again.
> 
> Would you folks please look at it and let me know the results. My center speaker is low at the floor level. I have it tilted up towards the listenning position. That is why my center speaker's freq responce is low between 300 and 5000. But all drivers work normal unless there is another possibilty that I don't know. Please comment.
> 
> Also due to Dolby specifications the LFE will be lowered by 10db from players to prevent the damage. Is this 10db raised in d2v to output normal LFE?
> 
> I have JL F113 sub which has 2 options for vollume. One is to set it at reference and the vollume knob does not work on the sub and the other option is to adjust the vollume on the sub. On the knob it goes from -infinity to 12 oclock (which is 0 and JL calls it reference level) then to 5:00 oclock which is maximum. When I ran arc I had the vollume knob set to 10:00 oclock to get 75 db aligned with other speakers. After I uploaded the arc, the subwoofer vollume is way too low. Basically there is very little base comes out of sub. I had to raise the vollume on the sub to about 1:00 oclock to get adequate base. I am not sure if this is due to the Dolby -10db reduction or it has something to do with the 12:00 oclock reference level. Reference level means the sub's output is the same as the source. If you guys have the same sub or have any idea please let me know. I appreciate every one's comments.
> 
> Thanks,



Any body to take a look at my charts and answer my questions???


When Bob is not here, nobody cares about nobody.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17874534
> 
> 
> Any body to take a look at my charts and answer my questions???
> 
> 
> When Bob is not here, nobody cares about nobody.



Page # 875 and post #26245 . Found them.


Your front soundstage all shows a peak at 50Hz. You might want to try some bass traps to tame these peaks which could bring your L/R fronts into +/-5dB range. It could also help your center's 50Hz peak but will not bring them into +/-5dB unless it address your center channel dip.


What do have on the floor? You might also be getting some first reflections off of the floor which may be impacting your center channels results. If you have a hard floor surface, try putting a thick comforter on the floor at the 1st reflection point and remeasure just the center channel to see if it cleans up its curve. If it does, you may want to consider an appropriate rug or relocation of your center channel.


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## Larry Lang

I read posts in the AVS Rel Forum regarding possible damage to the B1 but I'm not sure how it might apply my system. I have my Anthem D2V connected to a Krell TAS using XRL cables. There are balanced connections on the Anthem for 2 subs and I have my B1 just connected to Low Level to "Sub 1" on the Anthem. I would like to also connect the Anthem to the B1 High level input. Do I need to be concerned about damaging any of the components and would I use the Sub 2 connection on the Anthem or do it some other way? Do I need anything other than a regular balanced cable male on one end and female on the other? Thanks everone for any help you can give me.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Larry Lang* /forum/post/17874863
> 
> 
> I read posts in the AVS Rel Forum regarding possible damage to the B1 but I'm not sure how it might apply my system. I have my Anthem D2V connected to a Krell TAS using XRL cables. There are balanced connections on the Anthem for 2 subs and I have my B1 just connected to Low Level to "Sub 1" on the Anthem. I would like to also connect the Anthem to the B1 High level input. Do I need to be concerned about damaging any of the components and would I use the Sub 2 connection on the Anthem or do it some other way? Do I need anything other than a regular balanced cable male on one end and female on the other? Thanks everone for any help you can give me.



Do not connect your Sub to both Hi and Low level input of your REL, possible damage may occur. You are on the right track by using the low level pre amplified balanced input. All of your input options availlable are there for you to choose only ONE on how to connect your sub to your preamp, nothing more.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Larry Lang* /forum/post/17874863
> 
> 
> I read posts in the AVS Rel Forum regarding possible damage to the B1 but I'm not sure how it might apply my system. I have my Anthem D2V connected to a Krell TAS using XRL cables. There are balanced connections on the Anthem for 2 subs and I have my B1 just connected to Low Level to "Sub 1" on the Anthem. I would like to also connect the Anthem to the B1 High level input. Do I need to be concerned about damaging any of the components and would I use the Sub 2 connection on the Anthem or do it some other way? Do I need anything other than a regular balanced cable male on one end and female on the other? Thanks everone for any help you can give me.



Larry As mentionned in my previous post, you need to connect the Rel to the Low level input using a balanced cable. Not to the High inputs this could create issues leave the sub2 output alone you should not use it unless you want to connect a second sub.



This is how my Rel B2 is setup since almost 3 years now without any issue.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17874427
> 
> 
> There's a thread called "Home Theater Computers" under the Video components section.



Your are off track there is more to the D2V than just pages of discussions on ARC setup, and test results. IDo get me wong I like ARc and was part of the prilimiary users but D2 is lot more than just.


The topic here that you missed is not about Home Theater computer but about how to use bitstreaming to feed D2V. There is different option availables some are working, some are not working and that need to be discussed.


Now if don't like dicussion about bitstreaming vs Pre/processor and receiver you will ke quite annoyed next year when features of the D2V replacement will be discussed. Now that more and more pre/pro and receiver are supporting audio/video contend streaming, this again put on table as a possible feature for the D2V. I personally thing Anthem should not bother with such a feature, there is specialist in that field. But I am not the one in showroom selling units.


Talking about annoying upcoming discussion another one will be 3D support for the D2V replacement. Honestly I think there are solutions to get 3D a Pre/pro that only support HDMI 1.3. But again look at the buzz word from CES this year.


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17874534
> 
> 
> Any body to take a look at my charts and answer my questions???
> 
> 
> When Bob is not here, nobody cares about nobody.



Some of us do care but we are aware that our knowlege is limitted, specially compared with Bob`s.


FWIW, I would try higher values for your response cutoffs for all front speakers (l/r/f). Also, I would try throttling back on the Max Eq Freq. Last, try with lower room gains, say 3 and take it down or up as you perceive necessary.


Post No. 25813 page 861, Bob analyzed my charts for me and gave a clear explanation for these suggestions.


On room treatment, emailtim cover all areas that could think of based on your charts.


Now for music, do you really want all your speakers engaged? Just a suggestion worth trying, take the center speaker out for music and see if you like the results.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17874631
> 
> 
> Page # 875 and post #26245 . Found them.
> 
> 
> Your front soundstage all shows a peak at 50Hz. You might want to try some bass traps to tame these peaks which could bring your L/R fronts into +/-5dB range. It could also help your center's 50Hz peak but will not bring them into +/-5dB unless it address your center channel dip.
> 
> 
> What do have on the floor? You might also be getting some first reflections off of the floor which may be impacting your center channels results. If you have a hard floor surface, try putting a thick comforter on the floor at the 1st reflection point and remeasure just the center channel to see if it cleans up its curve. If it does, you may want to consider an appropriate rug or relocation of your center channel.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim



Thanks emailtim.

I appreciate it.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17880807
> 
> 
> Some of us do care but we are aware that our knowlege is limitted, specially compared with Bob`s.
> 
> 
> FWIW, I would try higher values for your response cutoffs for all front speakers (l/r/f). Also, I would try throttling back on the Max Eq Freq. Last, try with lower room gains, say 3 and take it down or up as you perceive necessary.
> 
> 
> Post No. 25813 page 861, Bob analyzed my charts for me and gave a clear explanation for these suggestions.
> 
> 
> On room treatment, emailtim cover all areas that could think of based on your charts.
> 
> 
> Now for music, do you really want all your speakers engaged? Just a suggestion worth trying, take the center speaker out for music and see if you like the results.



Thanks ccomhs.

Would you explain what do you mean by higher values for my response cutoffs and why should I throttle back on the Max eq freq?

Thanks again.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17877198
> 
> 
> Your are off track there is more to the D2V than just pages of discussions on ARC setup, and test results. IDo get me wong I like ARc and was part of the prilimiary users but D2 is lot more than just.
> 
> 
> The topic here that you missed is not about Home Theater computer but about how to use bitstreaming to feed D2V. There is different option availables some are working, some are not working and that need to be discussed.
> 
> 
> Now if don't like dicussion about bitstreaming vs Pre/processor and receiver you will ke quite annoyed next year when features of the D2V replacement will be discussed. Now that more and more pre/pro and receiver are supporting audio/video contend streaming, this again put on table as a possible feature for the D2V. I personally thing Anthem should not bother with such a feature, there is specialist in that field. But I am not the one in showroom selling units.
> 
> 
> Talking about annoying upcoming discussion another one will be 3D support for the D2V replacement. Honestly I think there are solutions to get 3D a Pre/pro that only support HDMI 1.3. But again look at the buzz word from CES this year.



Good points. Glad you expressed your opinion. I am sure they are shared by many on this thread.


In regards to the streaming. I agree. Look at the Oppo BDP-83 which now has Network streaming. A great Blu-Ray player with audiophile CD playback that now has an amateurish streaming system that makes any Popcorn Hour unit look super good.


----------



## jayray

I see Anthem introduced their new Blu-ray player at CES. There is some info on their website.

John


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17881438
> 
> 
> Thanks ccomhs.
> 
> Would you explain what do you mean by higher values for my response cutoffs and why should I throttle back on the Max eq freq?
> 
> Thanks again.



As I understand them, they are the low frequency points at which arc will no loger look for a curve adjustment. They are the low frequency values right next to the full range cross over option.

It gives the arc system more calculating power to use elsewhere in the correction. If you follow my post regarding my graphs, Bob explains all this - including why lowering the room gain is a sensible thing to do or at least it is worth a try.

Also, again as I understand it, high frequency correction is much more complex. Try starting at 5k and work up to see the poit where arc starts providing too many woobles in its adjustment solution.

Sorry to keep pointing you back to my post and Bob`s reply. But as I said earlier, if I did not chime in sooner it is because I am basing my advise on what I understood from Bob's comments. Scratching the why's, raising the low freq cut offs, lowering the gain and lowering the max freq settings produced a much smoother graph and sounded better.

Good Luck.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17882816
> 
> 
> As I understand them, they are the low frequency points at which arc will no loger look for a curve adjustment. They are the low frequency values right next to the full range cross over option.
> 
> It gives the arc system more calculating power to use elsewhere in the correction. If you follow my post regarding my graphs, Bob explains all this - including why lowering the room gain is a sensible thing to do or at least it is worth a try.
> 
> Also, again as I understand it, high frequency correction is much more complex. Try starting at 5k and work up to see the poit where arc starts providing too many woobles in its adjustment solution.
> 
> Sorry to keep pointing you back to my post and Bob`s reply. But as I said earlier, if I did not chime in sooner it is because I am basing my advise on what I understood from Bob's comments. Scratching the why's, raising the low freq cut offs, lowering the gain and lowering the max freq settings produced a much smoother graph and sounded better.
> 
> Good Luck.



Thanks. I really appreciate your time.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17874534
> 
> 
> Any body to take a look at my charts and answer my questions???
> 
> 
> When Bob is not here, nobody cares about nobody.



I am more concerned about the nulls in your Sub centered at 63 hertz and also the null above 100 hertz with your LF speaker. If you could move the sub a foot at a time in any direction you might be able to decrease the null naturally. The LF's response can also be adjusted by moving the speaker from its original position, this of course should be done in conjunction with your RF speaker. Acoustic intervention is in order to tame the peaks with Bass traps in the front corners of your room.


I would give priority to your frontstage LCR plus sub over the rest of your speakers. My max eq suggestion would be 8 to 10khz only even 5k would be a good starting point.


Also , try increasing your test tone level by 1.5 dB as your graph showns a reference response level of just 73.5dB. You don't hear much of the Bass because of your subs null from 60 to 80 hertz, a lot of the LF response are in there, increasing the level fron 10 o clock to 1 o clock would increase the level of your sub uniformly and the null would still be there. If you have sound in the 60 to 80 hertz region it will sound right but all other freq handled by the sub will sound too much.


----------



## Larry Lang

Tolstoi I wanted to thank you and report back as you requested. I have connected the B1as you suggested and run ARC. The results are mixed. There is a change but there isn't much punch to bass and in fact the bass as been significantly reduced. I used to have the B1 connected to the Krell as REL suggests which yielded better results but it was in a differant house. As you can see by my latest question I am still experimenting.


----------



## jmcomp124

Folks who own the Anthem ARC or have heard one or have heard or own/ed the Audyssey MultEQ Pro, I would like your opinions in this thread Anthem ARC and Audyssey MultEQ Pro 

Thanks,

-Jai


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/17884034
> 
> 
> I am more concerned about the nulls in your Sub centered at 63 hertz and also the null above 100 hertz with your LF speaker. If you could move the sub a foot at a time in any direction you might be able to decrease the null naturally. The LF's response can also be adjusted by moving the speaker from its original position, this of course should be done in conjunction with your RF speaker. Acoustic intervention is in order to tame the peaks with Bass traps in the front corners of your room.
> 
> 
> I would give priority to your frontstage LCR plus sub over the rest of your speakers. My max eq suggestion would be 8 to 10khz only even 5k would be a good starting point.
> 
> 
> Also , try increasing your test tone level by 1.5 dB as your graph showns a reference response level of just 73.5dB. You don't hear much of the Bass because of your subs null from 60 to 80 hertz, a lot of the LF response are in there, increasing the level fron 10 o clock to 1 o clock would increase the level of your sub uniformly and the null would still be there. If you have sound in the 60 to 80 hertz region it will sound right but all other freq handled by the sub will sound too much.



Thanks abc99.

I lowered my room gain to 3 and high freq to 6000 per ccomhs's recommendations and I liked the results. The sound is much more smoother. I will try to apply your recommendations as well. The bad thing is I do not have much flexibility in relocating my speakers.

Thanks again.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17882751
> 
> 
> I see Anthem introduced their new Blu-ray player at CES. There is some info on their website.
> 
> John



Any word on pricing?


----------



## abc999

Usd799?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmcomp124* /forum/post/17887073
> 
> 
> Folks who own the Anthem ARC or have heard one or have heard or own/ed the Audyssey MultEQ Pro, I would like your opinions in this thread Anthem ARC and Audyssey MultEQ Pro
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Jai



This comparison was done a VERY LONG time ago.

*ARC* WINS EVERY TIME.


----------



## jayray

I've read many reviews of ARC and consistently they rate it the best room EQ program they have heard. Hard to imagine they hadn't tried Audessey Pro prior to their conclusions.

John


----------



## b curry

Does anyone know what Anthems plans are for HDMI 1.4 for the D2v or the 50v?


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *b curry* /forum/post/17899790
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what Anthems plans are for HDMI 1.4 for the D2v or the 50v?



I hope it's to get the glitches out of the bloody firmware for the processors and adding Dolby Volume, before worrying about HDMI 1.4.


----------



## barrygordon

My understanding is that HDMI 1.4 will need new chipsets. So my question would be what would be the Anthem upgrade policy on for example an AVM 50v to an AVM-50X


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/17900418
> 
> 
> I hope it's to get the glitches out of the bloody firmware for the processors and adding Dolby Volume, before worrying about HDMI 1.4.



I hear ya. But, Sony and others have announced delivery of 3D TV's summer this year. I'm getting ready to buy a D2v and would hold off a few months (if it was coming) to avoid an upgrade latter.


Clearly, HDMI is a PITA moving target for manufactures as well as consumers.


I e-mailed Anthem and got a reply from Andrew Cirurgiao. He stated that there isn't anything currently underway to incorporate HDMI 1.4.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/17900532
> 
> 
> My understanding is that HDMI 1.4 will need new chipsets.



Correct - I'm HAPPY with HDMI 1.1


But wait until HDMI 1.7 and then I'll Upgrade







7 is a lucky number.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *b curry* /forum/post/17900697
> 
> 
> 3D TV's summer this year.




This years Buzz word...


I hope you enjoy your glasses....


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17902009
> 
> 
> This years Buzz word...
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoy your glasses....



Actually, I have no intentions of wearing the glasses... I'm not a big fan of 3D, but it looks like it's going to be given to us whether we want it or not with the announcement of at least three 3D TV stations, various sport broadcasts, and Blu-rays.


I'm more interested in the promised support of 4k x 2k resolution in the HDMI 1.4 spec. The higher resolution support for HT projection and the Audio Return Channel looks interesting.


Since 1.4 will require different transmitter and receiver chips I expect this will not be an inexpensive upgrade. Not to mention the additional confusion over cables as 1.4 introduces two new types plus the new Micro HDMI Connector. Monster and BB will have a field day. I also have no idea what 1.4 means for the scaling or memory requirements in a unit like the D2v.


I'm wondering if 1.4 is the end of the line for the D2 series and the introduction of an all new unit. You know, if you build it, they will come. And it seems like you have to support the standard with hardware if you're going to stay in business.


Just thinking out loud...



EDIT: BTW, I'm a happy Anthem customer. They have great customer service and product support.


----------



## aramb

Here's a newbie question.... When I change sources, I see briefly, "Dialog Normalization Offset +4". What does this mean, is it adjustable, and if so, what effect does it have?


Aram


----------



## jlanier




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17903153
> 
> 
> Here's a newbie question.... When I change sources, I see briefly, "Dialog Normalization Offset +4". What does this mean, is it adjustable, and if so, what effect does it have?
> 
> 
> Aram



It is not adjustable, and that is a good thing, though historical abuse and neglect of this parameter somewhat hampers its utility. It is the processor's way of telling you that it detected that the author of the bitstream calculated a dialog normalization offset of +4, and the processor has complied with the request to adjust the volume accordingly.


The idea behind dialog normalization is that different media will have different dynamic ranges, and therefore if each is mastered for its specific dynamic range, the result could be wildly varying dialog levels from source to source. Imagine changing the channel on your TV from one movie to another; one is a big action flick and the other is a low-key documentary. The dialog levels of these two sources are very unlikely to match, and so you end up reaching for the remote as you switch channels to fix the inevitable volume problem (either "I can't hear this" or "turn it down quick before my speakers explode"). What you deserve as an end-user is to not have to constantly adjust the volume as you switch between sources to compensate for different dynamic ranges.


Dialog normalization is a method by which such annoyance can be avoided by having the decoder adjust the volume to "normalize" the dialog level, as long as the author of the media is honest about what that level actually is. Thus the term "dialog normalization". Dialog is the centerpiece of the mix because that's what everything is mixed relative to, from an authoring standpoint.


It's a great idea from Dolby, but it falls apart in several cases: 1) dishonesty of the author, who might try to make everything "louder" by lying about the dynamic range, 2) neglect, where the parameter is just ignored, 3) if the bitstream is decoded by a device that has no way of adjusting the gain in the analog domain after decoding (such as any DVD/BluRay player that decodes to LPCM internally), then the parameter can't usually be applied and is ignored.


In any case, it's nothing to worry about. Here's some more info.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dialnorm


----------



## aramb

Thanks for that explanation. That makes sense.


Aram


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *b curry* /forum/post/17900697
> 
> 
> I hear ya. But, Sony and others have announced delivery of 3D TV's summer this year. I'm getting ready to buy a D2v and would hold off a few months (if it was coming) to avoid an upgrade latter.
> 
> 
> Clearly, HDMI is a PITA moving target for manufactures as well as consumers.
> 
> 
> I e-mailed Anthem and got a reply from Andrew Cirurgiao. He stated that there isn't anything currently underway to incorporate HDMI 1.4.



I don't believe there will be anything on Anthem side supporting HDMI 1.4 before at least a year even more.


Is 1.4 a must for a prepro to get 3D? Not necessarily. I believe the solution is a dual HDMI outputs player that support 1.4. For 3D playback one of the output could be sent directly to the display and the other could carry the audio to the D2V.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *b curry* /forum/post/17902306
> 
> 
> Actually, I have no intentions of wearing the glasses... I'm not a big fan of 3D, but it looks like it's going to be given to us whether we want it or not with the announcement of at least three 3D TV stations, various sport broadcasts, and Blu-rays.
> 
> 
> I'm more interested in the promised support of 4k x 2k resolution in the HDMI 1.4 spec. The higher resolution support for HT projection and the Audio Return Channel looks interesting.
> 
> 
> Since 1.4 will require different transmitter and receiver chips I expect this will not be an inexpensive upgrade. Not to mention the additional confusion over cables as 1.4 introduces two new types plus the new Micro HDMI Connector. Monster and BB will have a field day. I also have no idea what 1.4 means for the scaling or memory requirements in a unit like the D2v.
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if 1.4 is the end of the line for the D2 series and the introduction of an all new unit. You know, if you build it, they will come. And it seems like you have to support the standard with hardware if you're going to stay in business.
> 
> 
> Just thinking out loud...
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: BTW, I'm a happy Anthem customer. They have great customer service and product support.



The HDMI standard is the worst things that have happen to the industry.


Before everything else, a prepro is a key audio device in a audio/video system that feed us analogue sound. Sadly the constant HDMI changes that in fact bring only belts and whistles (gadget) put users in a situation where they are looking at the wrong thing.


The main concerns should be do you like and enjoy the sound from the D2V. If it is yes than is it really relevant if it support only HDMI1.3 and not 1.4?


I have friends who decided not to upgrade from the D2 to the D2V. Their and answer was “Do you get a better sound. Not really! Than I will not pay a penny for that.”


Could not care less about HDMI 1.3.


The situation on HDMI 1.4 is even worst considering that there is workaround to get 3D. Same for 4k by 2k you could go directly to the display. What does 1.4 requires that is a must for a Pre/pro?


----------



## AbMagFab

HDMI 1.4 has nothing to do with it, if we're using shutter glasses, right?


The video is simply sent at (at least) double the frame rate, with the two perspectives alternating, and the shutter glasses synchronized.


So... couldn't:


1) 48p be a bare minimum to support 3D of 24p material?

2) Existing TVs could easily support this?

3) The only thing you really need is a new BD player, and the dumb glasses?


Ultimately you'd want faster refresh rates to reduce eye strain, but am I missing something here?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Apparently there will be no more /24 for 3D. The "standards" that are being discussed appear to force everything to /60.


With HDMI V1.3 (vs. V1.4), 3D may be limited to 1080i or even 540.


All of this is hard to nail down as the manufacturers are still maneuvering for advantage. It's going to be a mess for quite some time.

--Bob (Another "post and run" I'm afraid) P.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In addition to their Blu-Ray player, Anthem has some info on their new "preamp/tuner", the TLP-1:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...TLP1/TLP1.html 


Stereo audio (plus subwoofer) -- no video switching/processing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Some mysterious files have appeared in "Link 7" of Anthem's password protected download page. I've not been able to figure out what they are for, but I suspect they are related to a "test" firmware update for one of the Paradigm products.


The one with the most meaningful name is "BRMTEST.TSP". The installation instructions don't provide any explanation, but do come with a warning not to use them unless instructed so I don't think this is something for any of us.

--Bob


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17906401
> 
> 
> The HDMI standard is the worst things that have happen to the industry.
> 
> 
> Before everything else, a prepro is a key audio device in a audio/video system that feed us analogue sound. Sadly the constant HDMI changes that in fact bring only belts and whistles (gadget) put users in a situation where they are looking at the wrong thing.
> 
> 
> The main concerns should be do you like and enjoy the sound from the D2V. If it is yes than is it really relevant if it support only HDMI1.3 and not 1.4?
> 
> 
> I have friends who decided not to upgrade from the D2 to the D2V. Their and answer was “Do you get a better sound. Not really! Than I will not pay a penny for that.”
> 
> 
> Could not care less about HDMI 1.3.
> 
> 
> The situation on HDMI 1.4 is even worst considering that there is workaround to get 3D. Same for 4k by 2k you could go directly to the display. What does 1.4 requires that is a must for a Pre/pro?



No argument from me about HDMI being a problem.


However, I guess it depends on how you use your pre/pro as to whether or not you see value in the changing specifications. HDMI 1.3 brought automatic audio lip-syncing capabilities and support for Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio. Seems like worthwhile improvements.


And it's not all about sound. Lets not forget some use the D2v video scaling.


Of course there are "workarounds", but it's not clear if the D2v is included in a "workaround". However, that's not my question. HDMI 1.4 offers more than 3D. My question was one of an upgrade path for the D2v and HDMI 1.4.


----------



## HTfanatic4life




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17594910
> 
> 
> Yes the D2 will pass through 1080p/24 from Blu-Ray players.
> 
> 
> However it will not convert 1080i/60 or 480i/60 to 1080p/24.
> 
> --Bob



What is my best configuration for 480i content (component video input) to a 1080p/24 display (Panasonic PT-AE4000)? I currently have my Video 1 output set to 1080p/24.


I’m having some issues with 480i content that appears to be somehow related to frame rate, or at least, that’s my best guess. Looks ‘cartoonish’ almost, or animated (moving quicker then it should), and not natural.


Blu-ray looks great from my PS3 which is passing 1080p/24 through D2.


I wonder if I could up-convert SD DVD in the PS3 but I’d rather use the D2 for any scaling. Currently, I’m using an old Sony S7700 for SD DVD playback.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17907628
> 
> 
> Apparently there will be no more /24 for 3D. The "standards" that are being discussed appear to force everything to /60.
> 
> 
> With HDMI V1.3 (vs. V1.4), 3D may be limited to 1080i or even 540.
> 
> 
> All of this is hard to nail down as the manufacturers are still maneuvering for advantage. It's going to be a mess for quite some time.
> 
> --Bob (Another "post and run" I'm afraid) P.



Not if you bypass the prepro for video.


----------



## Texas steve

I have the D2v and 480I out to 24P on my Panny 4000 somtimes gets "gittery'. I found if I hit pause, then play it clears up for about 10 minutes then starts again.


Im using the Oppo83 and tried different resloutions to the D2v/Panny combo but the same result. So..............I just hit pause every once in a while.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTfanatic4life* /forum/post/17908057
> 
> 
> What is my best configuration for 480i content (component video input) to a 1080p/24 display (Panasonic PT-AE4000)? I currently have my Video 1 output set to 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> I'm having some issues with 480i content that appears to be somehow related to frame rate, or at least, that's my best guess. Looks cartoonish' almost, or animated (moving quicker then it should), and not natural.
> 
> 
> B


----------



## erikno

I'm not far of of planning the purchase of a new blue ray player. With my D2v, well, I guess I only need to bit stream everything over. Do I then really need a High End Blue ray player? Is the new Anthem good enough? Should I try to wait for a possible transport from Anthem?


The dilemma is of course that having a awesome processor, how far should you go when it comes to the source for movies?


Any thoughts?


erikno


----------



## Texas steve

I had a Sony BR, then got the D2v, then got the Oppo83 and on BR disks there is a "reasonable" improvement. But on regular DVD disks the Oppo does a much better job of up-converting. Additionally, the speed and ease of the Oppo is much better.


My vote is yes - but I have the bad infliction called "upgradeitis"!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17908725
> 
> 
> I'm not far of of planning the purchase of a new blue ray player. With my D2v, well, I guess I only need to bit stream everything over. Do I then really need a High End Blue ray player? Is the new Anthem good enough? Should I try to wait for a possible transport from Anthem?
> 
> 
> The dilemma is of course that having a awesome processor, how far should you go when it comes to the source for movies?
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> erikno


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17908793
> 
> 
> I had a Sony BR, then got the D2v, then got the Oppo83 and on BR disks there is a "reasonable" improvement. But on regular DVD disks the Oppo does a much better job of up-converting. Additionally, the speed and ease of the Oppo is much better.
> 
> 
> My vote is yes - but I have the bad infliction called "upgradeitis"!!



He he, I'm already in that club many years ago...










I like the Oppo approach, and is contemplating on this one, however, DESIGN wise, the new BD player from Anthem would make sense. On the other side, what about the new high end players from Marantz etc costing a lot more. Does that make sense, since the decoding is done in the D2v, or will a more sophisticated player doing the decoding of picture of BD disc's inside, be a better approach?


erikno


----------



## Texas steve

Cant comment as I have no experience with the others. With the D2v you have one of the best decoding machines on the market. I would suggest that you will be hitting a point of diminished returns.


Im 100% happy with my cobo







, D2v, Oppo, Panny 4000 projector, 106" screen, BAT6200 AMP and Salk Speakers





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/17908908
> 
> 
> He he, I'm already in that club many years ago...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the Oppo approach, and is contemplating on this one, however, DESIGN wise, the new BD player from Anthem would make sense. On the other side, what about the new high end players from Marantz etc costing a lot more. Does that make sense, since the decoding is done in the D2v, or will a more sophisticated player doing the decoding of picture of BD disc's inside, be a better approach?
> 
> 
> erikno


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlanier* /forum/post/17904041
> 
> 
> The idea behind dialog normalization is that different media will have different dynamic ranges, and therefore if each is mastered for its specific dynamic range, the result could be wildly varying dialog levels from source to source. Imagine changing the channel on your TV from one movie to another; one is a big action flick and the other is a low-key documentary. The dialog levels of these two sources are very unlikely to match, and so you end up reaching for the remote as you switch channels to fix the inevitable volume problem (either "I can't hear this" or "turn it down quick before my speakers explode"). What you deserve as an end-user is to not have to constantly adjust the volume as you switch between sources to compensate for different dynamic ranges.



Just because I'm really anal about people understanding this properly, there are a couple of nit picks I want to clear up about your explanation... but your 95% correct in your description...


The dialog normalization value is based on a measurement of the entire mix, not only the dialog or center channel...


But to be clear, _it's not about matching (or changing) dynamic range, but overall average loudness of a mix._


The LEQ measurement that you are supposed to do is an average value over the course of a program that not only looks at average amplitudes, but gives more weight to certain frequency groups and less to others in calculating the LEQ value. (i.e. low end frequencies affect it less then mid and upper mid frequencies, which tend to be a little more fatiguing to the listener over time..)


So just to be clear, it isn't about dynamic range, although louder, peaky tracks will tend to have wider dynamic than talkies.



> Quote:
> Dialog normalization is a method by which such annoyance can be avoided by having the decoder adjust the volume to "normalize" the dialog level, as long as the author of the media is honest about what that level actually is. Thus the term "dialog normalization". Dialog is the centerpiece of the mix because that's what everything is mixed relative to, from an authoring standpoint.



The decoder doesn't "normalize" only the dialog level, or the center channel... it take the post decoded PCM of the entire mix and lowers it the appropriate amount.



> Quote:
> It's a great idea from Dolby, but it falls apart in several cases: 1) dishonesty of the author, who might try to make everything "louder" by lying about the dynamic range, 2) neglect, where the parameter is just ignored, 3) if the bitstream is decoded by a device that has no way of adjusting the gain in the analog domain after decoding (such as any DVD/BluRay player that decodes to LPCM internally), then the parameter can't usually be applied and is ignored.



1. You can't make anything louder by using Dial Norm... it only attenuates the track, and doesn't raise it.


It has nothing to do with dynamic range. The DRC (dynamic range compression/"Late Night Mode", etc..) is what lowers the dynamic range.


Most authoring companies just leave the encoder at it's default value (-27, +4 offset) and never touch it.


The only subjective effect it can have on audio is if you leave it "off/-31" there is no attenuation, and it will sound louder to other tracks with it.. (for a good example of this, just look at the 2 BR releases of Transformers 2... the Wal Mart "IMAX" cut of the film had a +4 offset, and everyone swore the normal Theatrical cut (0db offset) was so much better, had more low end, etc... )


2. Neglect is a harsh word. Since you are supposed to run an LEQ for the track, that takes tim.e, and money, which is self-explanatory why it doesn't happen a lot.


So the next question might be "why not bypass it for all material since all it does is cause confusion and constant remote jockeying?" The dialog norm value also provides information to the encoder which determines the metadata that is used for DRC... i.e the higher the offset, the steeper the curve/higher the ratio for DRC.


While not important to everyone, some people heavily rely on that due to their listening environments... now that we have Dolby Volume and Audyssey Dynamic Volume, we have other options on how to do this, and companies like Yamaha have DRC built into their products that work outside the DRC in a codec.


And just to point it out, DTS also supports dialog normalization, although most authoring companies tend to leave it at the "off/bypass" value (i.e. -31.)


3. As far as I know, as soon as it is decoded into PCM, regardless of inside the player or processor, the DN attenuation (if there is one) is applied... so it isn't ignored.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17903153
> 
> 
> Here's a newbie question.... When I change sources, I see briefly, "Dialog Normalization Offset +4". What does this mean, is it adjustable, and if so, what effect does it have?
> 
> 
> Aram



What you should do is raise the volume that amount to get the program to play back at it's intended reference volume...


If you set up your Anthem so that -10db volume, for example, is where you measured the test tones to give you the desired calibrated SPL level, you should turn it up to -6db to play back the track at "reference."


It would be great if Anthem would offer an automatic compensation, or bypass, although I don't know if that is allowed in their licensing agreements with Dolby or DTS...


Someone, should inquire with Nick about adding this feature.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17909478
> 
> 
> Just because I'm really anal about people understanding this properly



Thanks Marc for that GREAT Detailed Explanation in post 26301 & 26302.


I also never knew what all that normalization stuff was about.


Cheers for the EXPERT


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17909514
> 
> 
> What you should do is raise the volume that amount to get the program to play back at it's intended reference volume...
> 
> 
> If you set up your Anthem so that -10db volume, for example, is where you measured the test tones to give you the desired calibrated SPL level, you should turn it up to -6db to play back the track at "reference."
> 
> 
> It would be great if Anthem would offer an automatic compensation, or bypass, although I don't know if that is allowed in their licensing agreements with Dolby or DTS...
> 
> 
> Someone, should inquire with Nick about adding this feature.



Request done.


Really intesreting posts thanks for these clarifications.


----------



## HTfanatic4life




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17908670
> 
> 
> I have the D2v and 480I out to 24P on my Panny 4000 somtimes gets "gittery'. I found if I hit pause, then play it clears up for about 10 minutes then starts again.
> 
> 
> Im using the Oppo83 and tried different resloutions to the D2v/Panny combo but the same result. So..............I just hit pause every once in a while.



I will try your work-around but I hate to think that's a solution'! I have a lot of SD DVDs in my collection that I'd like to still get play time from (without needing to pause/un-pause).


(Of course, that said, Blu-ray looks so much better on a big screen (vs SD DVD) that I may have to replace my collection over time anyways)


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17909842
> 
> 
> Thanks Marc for that GREAT Detailed Explanation in post 26301 & 26302.
> 
> 
> I also never knew what all that normalization stuff was about.
> 
> 
> Cheers for the EXPERT



Yes... Thank you, Marc. I learned a great deal from this discussion!


Aram


----------



## gblack

What's the lastest on 1.47 firmware for the D2? I'm not keen on loading the beta software, but it's been out for so long I'm surprised it's not GA'ed yet. I'm feeling like the D2 isn't getting the love


----------



## jlanier




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17909478
> 
> 
> The dialog normalization value is based on a measurement of the entire mix, not only the dialog or center channel...



The final volume adjustment applies to the whole signal, and dialog isn't generally isolated for the purposes of volume matching, but the goal is still to match average volume levels of dialog-centric portions of the media.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17909478
> 
> 
> But to be clear, _it's not about matching (or changing) dynamic range, but overall average loudness of a mix._



Dynamic range refers to the difference between the quietest and loudest parts of the signal, and dialog will fall somewhere between those two, so it's not unrelated to loudness.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17909478
> 
> 
> The LEQ measurement that you are supposed to do is an average value over the course of a program that not only looks at average amplitudes, but gives more weight to certain frequency groups and less to others in calculating the LEQ value. (i.e. low end frequencies affect it less then mid and upper mid frequencies, which tend to be a little more fatiguing to the listener over time..)



Correct, but the Dolby Leq targets are still intended to match dialog levels. Maybe I'm picking nits, but I still say the goal is to match apparent effective dialog levels, not average volume of all sound, even if weighted for dialog EQ bands.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17909478
> 
> 
> The decoder doesn't "normalize" only the dialog level, or the center channel... it take the post decoded PCM of the entire mix and lowers it the appropriate amount.
> 
> 
> 1. You can't make anything louder by using Dial Norm... it only attenuates the track, and doesn't raise it.



Correct, but that still really ought to be done in the analog domain when possible, otherwise you're just reducing the S/N ratio of your DAC output by effectively bit-shifting everything down as you attenuate. I was under the impression that most high-end receivers did their dialnorm in the analog domain, but I could be totally wrong about that. I'd be keen to hear from anyone who could confirm or deny this, especially what the Anthem processors actually do. If it were done in the digital domain, I'd certainly want an option to bypass this behavior to preserve the S/N ratio of the signal.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17909478
> 
> 
> It has nothing to do with dynamic range. The DRC (dynamic range compression/"Late Night Mode", etc..) is what lowers the dynamic range.



Dynamic range has a meaning separate from dynamic range compression. When I refer to dynamic range in relation to average volume of different media sources, it is with the understanding that different media types have inherently different amounts of headroom that affect the maximum dynamic range that can be recorded on the media. Vinyl is different from tape, which is different from CD, which is different from SACD, etc. Dolby Digital is intended for use with both TV and DVD/BluRay, as well as decoders that might need to transmit over an RF modulator, and so this kind of metadata exists to make it easier to have wide dynamic range source material that can be adjusted at the decoder in the way most appropriate for the target device.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17909478
> 
> 
> Most authoring companies just leave the encoder at it's default value (-27, +4 offset) and never touch it.



Yes, and I find that very sad. It's one of the worst aspects of the DTV transition; now my TV channels have even bigger volume discrepancies than they had before.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17909478
> 
> 
> The only subjective effect it can have on audio is if you leave it "off/-31" there is no attenuation, and it will sound louder to other tracks with it.. (for a good example of this, just look at the 2 BR releases of Transformers 2... the Wal Mart "IMAX" cut of the film had a +4 offset, and everyone swore the normal Theatrical cut (0db offset) was so much better, had more low end, etc... )



Yeah, it's funny how people associate all sorts of coloration to a slight change in volume. Someone should do a study on that sort of psychoacoustic phenomenon if they haven't already...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17909478
> 
> 
> 2. Neglect is a harsh word. Since you are supposed to run an LEQ for the track, that takes tim.e, and money, which is self-explanatory why it doesn't happen a lot.



It is a harsh word. But then, why can't I as a consumer, in this day and age with all the advanced technology at our disposal, do something as simple as change a channel on my TV without scaring my pets? I don't think that's too much to ask, and I don't think it really should cost that much money.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17909478
> 
> 
> So the next question might be "why not bypass it for all material since all it does is cause confusion and constant remote jockeying?" The dialog norm value also provides information to the encoder which determines the metadata that is used for DRC... i.e the higher the offset, the steeper the curve/higher the ratio for DRC.



Correct, but this is assuming the metadata is set right to start with. If it is defaulted to +4, it's not really going to offer the proper DRC curve response anyway unless it happens to be accidentally correct in the first place.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17909478
> 
> 
> While not important to everyone, some people heavily rely on that due to their listening environments... now that we have Dolby Volume and Audyssey Dynamic Volume, we have other options on how to do this, and companies like Yamaha have DRC built into their products that work outside the DRC in a codec.



I personally think ALL DRC should work outside the codec, if for no other reason than my processor knows far more about my target environment than the bitstream does, and the fact that bitstream metadata is often wrong anyway.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17909478
> 
> 
> And just to point it out, DTS also supports dialog normalization, although most authoring companies tend to leave it at the "off/bypass" value (i.e. -31.)



This, I didn't know. Interesting.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17909478
> 
> 
> 3. As far as I know, as soon as it is decoded into PCM, regardless of inside the player or processor, the DN attenuation (if there is one) is applied... so it isn't ignored.



It seems to me to be ignored whenever I let my DVD/BD player decode LPCM internally. That is, I have to turn down my volume substantially when switching back to other sources, whereas if I pass the bitstream through it seems quieter. I haven't explicitly tested for this so it could be my ears playing tricks, but that's how it seems. And I don't think I'd ever want the attenuation applied in the digital domain for the reason I mentioned above; you're just throwing away bits of your DAC if you do that.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17909478
> 
> 
> Just because I'm really anal about people understanding this properly, there are a couple of nit picks I want to clear up about your explanation... but your 95% correct in your description...
> 
> 
> The dialog normalization value is based on a measurement of the entire mix, not only the dialog or center channel...



Hi Marc,


From all that I have known about this, it is indeed the intent of the dialnorm parameter to reflect the dialog levels in the track, and hence not be affected by the peaks or other non-dialog average levels of the overall soundtrack. When manually measuring the dialnorm of a soundtrack, one is to find passages in the soundtrack that represent normal spoken dialog--not shouting or whispers, and hopefully in isolation from music or other backgrounds.


Page 29 of the DP570 manual has a nice explanation of the procedure. It does mention about the Infinite mode and various uses, one of which is measuring the entire soundtrack, which is particularly useful to determine a dialnorm value for a non-dialog program, like a purely instrumental music recording. And then it indeed reflects the average loudness.


The newer LM100 automatic measuring tool uses sophisticated scene analysis “Dialog Intelligence” to distinguish these areas of the soundtrack so it makes an accurate reading.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

I am having some new speaker wire and rear channel speakers installed tomorrow.

What are the latest Firmware versions for the D2 and ARC?

I know I have 1.33 for my D2. Not 100% sure on my ARC

Just in case I need an upgrade while the installers are at my home.

Thanks.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17910778
> 
> 
> Hi Marc,
> 
> 
> From all that I have known about this, it is indeed the intent of the dialnorm parameter to reflect the dialog levels in the track, and hence not be affected by the peaks or other non-dialog average levels of the overall soundtrack. When manually measuring the dialnorm of a soundtrack, one is to find passages in the soundtrack that represent normal spoken dialog--not shouting or whispers, and hopefully in isolation from music or other backgrounds.



I wholeheartedly agree it is there to _reflect_ the average dialog level of the mix, just not to change it, either on it's own or in the context of a balance change between it and the other channels.... that is where I think I was unclear in my explanation.


In reading the 570 and LM 100 documents (which are tools I haven't used) it seems the methodology has really changed over the years, and has become much more in tune with getting DN to do what it was designed to do... one new thing I saw in there (and something none of my LEQ tools has) was the ability to target only the C channel, for example.... So I stand corrected about that and the suggested techniques to be used in getting the correct dialog level value (very different than what I was taught all those years ago...)


As I alluded to earlier, do you know if it is within the licensing agreement for a manufacturer to design a "bypass" of the DN attenuation in a Dolby decoder product (even if the bypass is to raise the level automatically the offset amount?)


----------



## Kensmith48

BigMovieFan,

The latest downloads are 1.33 and 2.4 for the ARC which can be downloaded thru anthemav.com. Go do the Statement section>>> Latest Software


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17911389
> 
> 
> As I alluded to earlier, do you know if it is within the licensing agreement for a manufacturer to design a "bypass" of the DN attenuation in a Dolby decoder product (even if the bypass is to raise the level automatically the offset amount?)



The short answer is no. The solution that Dolby and THX arrived at was to apply a fixed 4 dB gain offset to DD soundtracks, so that the gross difference between non-dialnormed and dialnormed sources could be compensated, thus maintaining calibration of their volume controls, yet leave dialnorm active so that program-to-program level changes would still take effect, a dB or two here or there. It was a compromise between the goals of dialnorm and the goals of reference volume. The two are at cross-purposes. It was an allowed option for AVR makers, so some products do it, others do not. Their choice.


As we've all seen, a global solution is needed to accommodate the multitude of codecs and unruly programs (TV), hence the effort for Dolby Volume, which eliminates the need for dialnorm. As to whether the prior dialnorm rules can be changed, we have to let Dolby speak for themselves. I think it's safe to say they are well aware of the issue.


----------



## slots1

Hi

Just got back from CES. Anthem/Paradigm had a great demo ot their latest equipment.

Spoke briefly (he was talking about the exchange for the D2v with a customer) and basically he said it will be a while until the new D3? comes out. And their will be no upgrade to it. In fact, and i hope I was wrong that you would just have to buy it. Since it will be a completely new layout of all the boards. Too bad. I am still very happy with my D2. Would like to know when 1.33 will be replaced with that upgrade that is stilll in beta.

i also do not think 3d is going to make it. I am a person who remembers the 3d pics from the 50's. They were great and the show, but to spend the extra money and then where glasses. Just go see Avitar in 3d imax and wow.


----------



## jlanier




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17911656
> 
> 
> As we've all seen, a global solution is needed to accommodate the multitude of codecs and unruly programs (TV), hence the effort for Dolby Volume, which eliminates the need for dialnorm. As to whether the prior dialnorm rules can be changed, we have to let Dolby speak for themselves. I think it's safe to say they are well aware of the issue.



So to use this opportunity to segue back to a somewhat thread-relevant topic...







Does anyone know any technical details about Dolby Volume they'd be willing to share, as I'm unfamiliar with that? I understand that Anthem will be pushing this out in a future firmware update, but I don't know what it's supposed to do or how it's supposed to work. As an audiophile, I'm pretty skeptical of anything that might change or compress the signal itself. I'm curious about how this would eliminate the need for dialnorm...


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlanier* /forum/post/17911774
> 
> 
> So to use this opportunity to segue back to a somewhat thread-relevant topic...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know any technical details about Dolby Volume they'd be willing to share, as I'm unfamiliar with that? I understand that Anthem will be pushing this out in a future firmware update, but I don't know what it's supposed to do or how it's supposed to work. As an audiophile, I'm pretty skeptical of anything that might change or compress the signal itself. I'm curious about how this would eliminate the need for dialnorm...


 http://www.dolby.com/consumer/unders...by-volume.html 

http://www.dolby.com/consumer/experi...-seefeldt.html 


"A Deeper Dive in Dolby Volume."


Dialog norm helps with:



> Quote:
> A Consistent Problem
> 
> 
> The biggest annoyance for home viewers and listeners has been the significant differences in volume levels as you switch between channels or sources on your televisions and in your home entertainment systems. Variances in volume levels in DVD and Blu-ray Disc™, digital music files, compact discs, and broadcast entertainment programming each compound the problem, forcing you to reach for the remote controls to adjust the volume.



Dolby Volume helps with...


> Quote:
> *Once the volume is turned down, a second problem arises.* Human hearing is sensitive to human voices at all sound levels. At lower volumes, people can decipher midrange sound, but high- and low-frequency sounds are lost. Adding to the complexity is the fact that most content that you listen to or watch is rich with sounds that have different levels—and these levels need to balanced with the main content.



A similar solution as to what Audyssey is doing with their Dynamic EQ and Dynamic Volume products, or the THX feature Loudness Plus.


Another general note:



> Quote:
> Dolby Volume monitors and adjusts perceived loudness in up to 40 frequency bands per channel based on the content in those bands. It's far more intelligent than a simple bass and treble boost.
> 
> 
> By monitoring discrete frequencies, and the content within those frequencies, Dolby Volume makes adjustments only where necessary. The result is a more natural, true-to-the-original listening experience all the time.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/17908952
> 
> 
> Cant comment as I have no experience with the others. With the D2v you have one of the best decoding machines on the market. I would suggest that you will be hitting a point of diminished returns.
> 
> 
> Im 100% happy with my cobo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , D2v, Oppo, Panny 4000 projector, 106" screen, *BAT6200 AMP and Salk Speakers*



Steve. I know this is way OT but I just had to comment.

I have a 6200 driving 3 Salk HT2s.









Also a D2 minus the v


----------



## Mr. Foo

After upgrading my AVM-50 with ARC, I now get an annoying burst of static when switching HDMI inputs. I am running with v1.33 firmware.


Anyone else experience this?


Does a recent firmware fix this problem (I'm lazy and have been living with this for a while so I am likely on an old FW version but don't want to upgrade if I don't have to)


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Foo* /forum/post/17916782
> 
> 
> After upgrading my AVM-50 with ARC, I now get an annoying burst of static when switching HDMI inputs. I am running with v1.33 firmware.
> 
> 
> Anyone else experience this?
> 
> 
> Does a recent firmware fix this problem (I'm lazy and have been living with this for a while so I am likely on an old FW version but don't want to upgrade if I don't have to)



I have a D2 - NOT AVM50 - but I'm running the same FW 1.33.


No Static when switching HDMI ports HERE - it is likely coming

for the source device and not the fault of the AVM50.


----------



## Hank_007

You are not alone in this annoyance. Ever since swapping out the board in my AVM-50 to add ARC, I too have this issue. I talked with Peiro about it at Anthem and they are aware it. He said they hope to have it fixed in a firmware update, but I dont know it it will ever happen as the avm-50/D2 have been pretty much put out to the pasture at this point. Another call to remind them not to forget about us never hurts.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hank_007* /forum/post/17918113
> 
> 
> You are not alone in this annoyance. Ever since swapping out the board in my AVM-50 to add ARC, I too have this issue. I talked with Peiro about it at Anthem and they are aware it. He said they hope to have it fixed in a firmware update, but I dont know it it will ever happen as the avm-50/D2 have been pretty much put out to the pasture at this point. Another call to remind them not to forget about us never hurts.



WELL THEN - I LEANRED SOMETHING NEW.


I didn't know it was associated with an AVM50 Board update.


When I added ARC to the D2 - it was 100% SW - no HW update.


----------



## Mr. Foo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hank_007* /forum/post/17918113
> 
> 
> You are not alone in this annoyance. Ever since swapping out the board in my AVM-50 to add ARC, I too have this issue. I talked with Peiro about it at Anthem and they are aware it. He said they hope to have it fixed in a firmware update, but I dont know it it will ever happen as the avm-50/D2 have been pretty much put out to the pasture at this point. Another call to remind them not to forget about us never hurts.



Thanks for the info.


If this is the case, then this is UNACCEPTABLE because this $700 upgrade was done just last May and I believe should be still under warranty. I mean, why offer the upgrade for non-v2 users if you are not going to support fixes to KNOWN BUGS with future firmware upgrades?


In addition, it's really embarassing when I have people over and am showing off my setup and then this happens.


I'll email Anthem, but I am suspecting disappointment.


----------



## Mr. Foo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hank_007* /forum/post/17918113
> 
> 
> You are not alone in this annoyance. Ever since swapping out the board in my AVM-50 to add ARC, I too have this issue. I talked with Peiro about it at Anthem and they are aware it. He said they hope to have it fixed in a firmware update, but I dont know it it will ever happen as the avm-50/D2 have been pretty much put out to the pasture at this point. Another call to remind them not to forget about us never hurts.



Question for you - are you making use of any of the analog inputs on the Anthem?


I wanna say that this problem didn't arise until I started making use of the multi-channel analog inputs (but doesn't happen when I switch to/from analog input, only between HDMI inputs).


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Foo* /forum/post/17918504
> 
> 
> Question for you - are you making use of any of the analog inputs on the Anthem?
> 
> 
> I wanna say that this problem didn't arise until I started making use of the multi-channel analog inputs (but doesn't happen when I switch to/from analog input, only between HDMI inputs).



I know this sounds ridiculous and I might "get egg on face" for this suggestion.

I remember reading somewhere where Anthem suggested raising the mute level to silent to remedy this problem. I know I did it and my D2 does not exhibit this at all. Worth a try.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17918935
> 
> 
> I know this sounds ridiculous and I might "get egg on face" for this suggestion.
> 
> I remember reading somewhere where Anthem suggested raising the mute level to silent to remedy this problem. I know I did it and my D2 does not exhibit this at all. Worth a try.



That does not SOUND CRAZY - they should try it.


----------



## mothaselin

Been away for a few weeks, what is the latest firmware?


----------



## Roomraider




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17842863
> 
> 
> WHY - what is wrong with a solution that works?
> 
> 
> Is It Religion?



LOL, no, all of my optical ports are poulated.


----------



## Mr. Foo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17918935
> 
> 
> I know this sounds ridiculous and I might "get egg on face" for this suggestion.
> 
> I remember reading somewhere where Anthem suggested raising the mute level to silent to remedy this problem. I know I did it and my D2 does not exhibit this at all. Worth a try.



Thanks for the idea but no dice - had it set to silent already.


----------



## stummala

Guys...I too have an AVM50 that had an ARC board installed by Anthem. I TOO HAVE THIS ANNOYING NOISE!!! It's totally unacceptable. This is now the 4th person who has this issue and it's horrible.


Mr. Foo, have you had any luck with Anthem? Andrew told me that he will be sending me another DSP board and e-mailed me photo instructions on how to swap the boards. I think a firmware update that simply mutes the audio during HDMI switching, etc. is all that really needs to be done.


Anyhow, frustrating....


Satish


----------



## Mr. Foo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stummala* /forum/post/17920602
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Foo, have you had any luck with Anthem? Andrew told me that he will be sending me another DSP board and e-mailed me photo instructions on how to swap the boards. I think a firmware update that simply mutes the audio during HDMI switching, etc. is all that really needs to be done.
> 
> 
> Anyhow, frustrating....
> 
> 
> Satish



I haven't inquired with them yet, as I wanted to find out from the community here first if there already was a solution. Knowing that there are at least 3 other AVM-50 owners living with same problem will definately be mentioned in my correspondence with them.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/17919176
> 
> 
> Been away for a few weeks, what is the latest firmware?



For which unit?


----------



## mothaselin

I need to know what is the latest firmware for the D2V


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/17919176
> 
> 
> Been away for a few weeks, what is the latest firmware?


 http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17922785
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...e/Upgrade.html



It just boggles my MIND why people can't figure out these answers on their OWN


----------



## jayray

To lower some of the AVM 50 owner's blood pressure, I suggest muting the unit while you change inputs. I know this doesn't solve the problem, but it will reduce the angst while they try to solve it. I too had this problem with my AVM 50 after my ARC upgrade but have subsequently sold it. This may not work for everyone( not the selling







) but it may reduce the noise which is very irritating.









John


----------



## mothaselin

I totally recognize that 2.8 is correct but there was some discussion of other firmware upgrades with some new Dolby things and that was what I was asking about. I will just call Anthem and sorry to bother all of you folks.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/17923410
> 
> 
> I totally recognize that 2.8 is correct but there was some discussion of other firmware upgrades with some new Dolby things and that was what I was asking about. I will just call Anthem and sorry to bother all of you folks.



Not any bother but that is not what you asked


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/17923410
> 
> 
> I totally recognize that 2.8 is correct but there was some discussion of other firmware upgrades with some new Dolby things and that was what I was asking about. I will just call Anthem and sorry to bother all of you folks.



Greetings,


No bother at all...



Regards,


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17922793
> 
> 
> It just boggles my MIND why people can't figure out these answers on their OWN




Hehheeh I guess I should have done it this way... this is my favorite...

Google is your friend people...

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=anthem+d2v+latest+software 


*mothaselin,* No bother, and BTW - Dolby Volume hasn't been released yet....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17923750
> 
> 
> Hehheeh I guess I should have done it this way... this is my favorite...
> 
> Google is your friend people...
> 
> http://lmgtfy.com/?q=anthem+d2v+latest+software
> 
> 
> *mothaselin,* No bother, and BTW - Dolby Volume hasn't been released yet....



THAT IS Awesome - Very Cool


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Paradigm/Anthem CES 2010 reports are starting to trickle out:

http://www.soundstagenetwork.com/las...emos&Itemid=37 


Nick tells me that his impression was that the Paradigm/Anthem setup was the only setup *NOT* featuring 3D which had a line of folks waiting to get in -- and that was partly due to the fact that folks seeing the demo didn't want to leave!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick tells me the Dolby Volume beta release is probably one more week away.


One of the audio fixes they are working on broke something DV related so they are resolving that now.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17924070
> 
> 
> 
> Nick tells me that his impression was that the Paradigm/Anthem setup was the only setup *NOT* featuring 3D which had a line of folks waiting to get in -- and that was partly due to the fact that folks seeing the demo didn't want to leave!
> 
> --Bob



Well that is BAD NEWS - now Anthem will put 3D on the back burner.

Don't they know -- We all need 3D for *GOD knows what*


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17924070
> 
> 
> Paradigm/Anthem CES 2010 reports are starting to trickle out:
> 
> http://www.soundstagenetwork.com/las...emos&Itemid=37
> 
> 
> Nick tells me that his impression was that the Paradigm/Anthem setup was the only setup *NOT* featuring 3D which had a line of folks waiting to get in -- and that was partly due to the fact that folks seeing the demo didn't want to leave!
> 
> --Bob



whats up with the receivers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There's some info on the TLP-1 stereo (plus subwoofer) pre-amp/tuner on the Anthem AV portion of their web site, but nothing I could find on "receivers".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17924184
> 
> 
> Well that is BAD NEWS - now Anthem will put 3D on the back burner.
> 
> Don't they know -- We all need 3D for *GOD knows what*



3D is bad enough, but HDMI V1.4 is going to mean tears all around....

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17924269
> 
> 
> 3D is bad enough, but HDMI V1.4 is going to mean tears all around....
> 
> --Bob



I don't NEED more tears


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17924269
> 
> 
> 3D is bad enough, but HDMI V1.4 is going to mean tears all around....
> 
> --Bob



The great mystery to me is how the PS3 is going to do 3D over HDMI 1.3. And an old version of the interface chips too.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/17925488
> 
> 
> The great mystery to me is how the PS3 is going to do 3D over HDMI 1.3. And an old version of the interface chips too.



As 2 1080i fields in a 1080p frame... and it's not going to be able to accommodate all of the new versions of 3D that the HDMI 1.4 spec includes....


As of right now, I can go out and buy the Avatar video game for the PS3, plug in a compatible glasses/transmitter combo and get 3D on my LED DLP from Samsung (it has a compatible 3D link and HDMI input to sync with...)


The spec for BR 3D is very open to backward compatibility, albeit at a lower resolution.. while there is still much confusion, it looks like HDMI 1.4 will be required for dual 1080p frame transmission, but older hardware should be able to play back the same 3D, albeit at a lower resolution, which is what the FW update will allow.. And it looks as if most material will be at 1080P/30, not 24, which is why the spec for true 1080P 3D needs 1.4 (i.e. two frames at 1080p/30 is, in essence, 1080p/60...)


Also note that, from what I have gathered, these updates (like the PS3) will be the same for any 1080P BD-Live capable player out now (if the manufacturer decides to implement it...) They are using a variant of the AVC codec for this, so the firmware also will allow for the decoding of that, along with telling the PS3 how to output it.. the spec seems very flexible in that the same content can be "transcoded" so it will play back at full resolution on one machine, and also be able to play back on another that has different abilities (like a PS3...)



DirecTV is going to offer a similar update for their current boxes that do 1080p (which is almost all of the current line up, including my 4 year old HR20 DVR..) for the 3D broadcasts they start in July.


All this I have gathered from the various information out there, but until we see software and dedicated hardware, no on knows.. it's definitely a moving target and should be cleared up middle of the year... it was heartening to see Panasonic's first player include dual HDMI outputs, so I suspect, while it will require a second run to a display, it won't leave current HDMI 1.3 users outside the game for the latest and greatest...


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17925596
> 
> 
> As 2 1080i fields in a 1080p frame... and it's not going to be able to accommodate all of the new versions of 3D that the HDMI 1.4 spec includes....
> 
> 
> As of right now, I can go out and buy the Avatar video game for the PS3, plug in a compatible glasses/transmitter combo and get 3D on my LED DLP from Samsung (it has a compatible 3D link and HDMI input to sync with...)
> 
> 
> The spec for BR 3D is very open to backward compatibility, albeit at a lower resolution.. while there is still much confusion, it looks like HDMI 1.4 will be required for dual 1080p frame transmission, but older hardware should be able to play back the same 3D, albeit at a lower resolution, which is what the FW update will allow.. And it looks as if most material will be at 1080P/30, not 24, which is why the spec for true 1080P 3D needs 1.4 (i.e. two frames at 1080p/30 is, in essence, 1080p/60...)
> 
> 
> Also note that, from what I have gathered, these updates (like the PS3) will be the same for any 1080P BD-Live capable player out now (if the manufacturer decides to implement it...) They are using a variant of the AVC codec for this, so the firmware also will allow for the decoding of that, along with telling the PS3 how to output it.. the spec seems very flexible in that the same content can be "transcoded" so it will play back at full resolution on one machine, and also be able to play back on another that has different abilities (like a PS3...)
> 
> 
> 
> DirecTV is going to offer a similar update for their current boxes that do 1080p (which is almost all of the current line up, including my 4 year old HR20 DVR..) for the 3D broadcasts they start in July.
> 
> 
> All this I have gathered from the various information out there, but until we see software and dedicated hardware, no on knows.. it's definitely a moving target and should be cleared up middle of the year... it was heartening to see Panasonic's first player include dual HDMI outputs, so I suspect, while it will require a second run to a display, it won't leave current HDMI 1.3 users outside the game for the latest and greatest...



My current HDMI 1.3 D2v supports 1080p60, as does my HDMI 1.3 Sony VW60. Why can't 1080p30x2 3D work just fine with all that current hardware, and something to control the ugly, annoying glasses?


----------



## mothaselin

Bob I totally agree, we still have not thrashed out 1.3 as yet, now 1.4. I guess some good scotch will be necessary.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17924269
> 
> 
> 3D is bad enough, but HDMI V1.4 is going to mean tears all around....
> 
> --Bob


----------



## mothaselin

Ok guys stop picking on a gal. I just wanted the latest info, now I am up to date.


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob and others.

Attached is my very funny room layout. I have a 60 hz dip from sub.

would you guys look at my room layout and help me to eliminate the dip.

I really appreciate your comments.

 

Room Layout.pdf 9.353515625k . file


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17925774
> 
> 
> My current HDMI 1.3 D2v supports 1080p60, as does my HDMI 1.3 Sony VW60. Why can't 1080p30x2 3D work just fine with all that current hardware, and something to control the ugly, annoying glasses?



Because:



> Quote:
> HDMI 1.4 will be required for *dual* 1080p frame transmission




They need to be transmitted at the same time, not sequentially... that is the biggest difference in how HDMI 1.4 can handle 3D video (as simultaneous frames.)


The way I wrote it didn't come out quite right in talking about frame rates.. I should've left that out...


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17925774
> 
> 
> My current HDMI 1.3 D2v supports 1080p60, as does my HDMI 1.3 Sony VW60. Why can't 1080p30x2 3D work just fine with all that current hardware, and something to control the ugly, annoying glasses?



And I guess 1080P24x2 for 3D could be send at 1080p48.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17924184
> 
> 
> Well that is BAD NEWS - now Anthem will put 3D on the back burner.
> 
> Don't they know -- We all need 3D for *GOD knows what*



Sound like the HDMI1.3 saga again.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17923750
> 
> 
> Hehheeh I guess I should have done it this way... this is my favorite...
> 
> Google is your friend people...
> 
> http://lmgtfy.com/?q=anthem+d2v+latest+software
> 
> 
> *mothaselin,* No bother, and BTW - Dolby Volume hasn't been released yet....



It is coming soon.


----------



## greyflag

I have the ARC static issue as well after upgrading my AVM50


----------



## Mr. Foo

Want to ask the aformentioned question again so as it doesn't get buried in this thread, given that there are now at least 4 other AVM-50/ARC owners haven't to deal with this static issue:


Do any of you NOT have any connections to the analog inputs and are still getting this issue?


( just wondering if this is what triggered it )


... and it's not only when I switch HDMI inputs do I get this noise. It happens ANYTIME there is an interuption in the video - something sometimes unexpected that can't simply be mitigated by pre-muting the system.


----------



## mlfeatherston

I tried to get a quote on a trade in from a dealer - but they told me that Anthem is no longer offering upgrades for 50s to 50Vs. Does that sound right?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17851800
> 
> 
> In my view, trading in the AVM50 to get the AVM50v would be the better choice. I traded in my AVM30 for $1500 toward the price of the 50v. I ended up paying under $3300 for the 50v (tax included). The 8-HDMI ports and superior video processing along with ARC (a $400 value) did it for me. I couldn't justify the D2v as both the 50v and D2v were deemed sonically transparent in numerous A/V reviews when processing high resolution audion and video sources.
> 
> 
> Trading in your AVM50 should get you a much better price since its way newer than my original AVM30. IMHO, go for the 50v. Its the best DEAL for the PRICE. You'll never regret it.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *b curry* /forum/post/17902306
> 
> 
> Actually, I have no intentions of wearing the glasses... I'm not a big fan of 3D, but it looks like it's going to be given to us whether we want it or not with the announcement of at least three 3D TV stations, various sport broadcasts, and Blu-rays.
> 
> 
> I'm more interested in the promised support of 4k x 2k resolution in the HDMI 1.4 spec. The higher resolution support for HT projection and the Audio Return Channel looks interesting.
> 
> 
> Since 1.4 will require different transmitter and receiver chips I expect this will not be an inexpensive upgrade. Not to mention the additional confusion over cables as 1.4 introduces two new types plus the new Micro HDMI Connector. Monster and BB will have a field day. I also have no idea what 1.4 means for the scaling or memory requirements in a unit like the D2v.
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if 1.4 is the end of the line for the D2 series and the introduction of an all new unit. You know, if you build it, they will come. And it seems like you have to support the standard with hardware if you're going to stay in business.
> 
> 
> Just thinking out loud...
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: BTW, I'm a happy Anthem customer. They have great customer service and product support.



I concurr. I was never impressed with the commercial version of 3d. I cant imagine the home version is going to be any better nor do I have any interest in it.


----------



## jlanier




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17912150
> 
> http://www.dolby.com/consumer/unders...by-volume.html
> 
> http://www.dolby.com/consumer/experi...-seefeldt.html
> 
> 
> "A Deeper Dive in Dolby Volume.":



Awesome links, thanks; exactly the technical info I was looking for. Sounds like something I would like to use while watching TV, but I still don't think I'd want it when listening to movies or music, unless I was doing low-volume late-night listening.


----------



## Hank_007

Sorry, but I am not using analog connections for any of my inputs. It only seems to make the noise as when it changes to a different audio format. Very annoying while starting up blu-rays as it starts hissing while switching between previews, the copy right disclaimer, and the main menu.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mothaselin* /forum/post/17925956
> 
> 
> Ok guys stop picking on a gal. I just wanted the latest info, now I am up to date.




Hey Hey..... don't take offense.... were all just playin fun here....


Personally I'm just bored and waiting to see new news of Dolby Volume to get released... You haven't missed anything... If your D2v is working fine - no need to make any changes until something worthy of an upgrade come to light...


I'm still running with 2.04 with no problems what so ever... Can't wait for Dolby Volume though.... I freakin hate commercials...


----------



## jayray

Aren't loud commercials being addressed by the NTSC? I read that the US senate has a bill before it to deal with this issue. And yes I do know how fast government works.









John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/17927319
> 
> 
> Hey Hey..... don't take offense.... were all just playin fun here....
> 
> 
> Personally I'm just bored and waiting to see new news of Dolby Volume to get released... You haven't missed anything... If your D2v is working fine - no need to make any changes until something worthy of an upgrade come to light...
> 
> 
> I'm still running with 2.04 with no problems what so ever... Can't wait for Dolby Volume though.... I freakin hate commercials...



Maybe you have heard it or maybe not.


CBS in Chicago has a new trick with their commercials.


It seems like they are changing the DD 5.1 format to all channel mono or stereo. They then increase the audio level several db and the commercial volume becomes the same from every speaker. Blows you right out of the room or grabbing for the remote when the commercials blast from the rear and side surrounds.


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17927672
> 
> 
> Maybe you have heard it or maybe not.
> 
> 
> CBS in Chicago has a new trick with their commercials.
> 
> 
> It seems like they are changing the DD 5.1 format to all channel mono or stereo. They then increase the audio level several db and the commercial volume becomes the same from every speaker. Blows you right out of the room or grabbing for the remote when the commercials blast from the rear and side surrounds.



That is just WRONG!!!


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/17927672
> 
> 
> CBS in Chicago has a new trick with their commercials.



Maybe CBS TV should have a look at the CBS website . Time is not on their side.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17926027
> 
> 
> Because:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They need to be transmitted at the same time, not sequentially... that is the biggest difference in how HDMI 1.4 can handle 3D video (as simultaneous frames.)
> 
> 
> The way I wrote it didn't come out quite right in talking about frame rates.. I should've left that out...



Huh? That makes no sense. The TV can't display them at the same time. They will clearly be displayed sequentially, and sent sequentially, and the glasses shutters just need to be at the same rate (although not sure if L/R synchronization matters - and no idea how they can synchronize 1/60th of a second based on a random sitting distance, cable length, and all the VP going on).


Anyway, "requiring" 1.4 sounds like "requiring" 1.3. As it turned out, 1.3 really isn't required for anything, it just helps ensure that both sides understand each other a little better. I don't even think 1.3 is technically "required" for bitstreaming, is it? Meaning I can use ffmpeg w/ bitstreaming support on a HTPC with an HDMI 1.1 port?


But whatever - 1080p60 is supported with current hardware. No matter what FUD is out there, the TV will be displaying the two 1080p30 set of frames sequentially, just like a 1080p60 stream would anyway.


What am I missing (other than FUD)?


----------



## Milt99

Super. Even the D2\\D2v etal, thread is no refuge from the hype machine that is 3D.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17928602
> 
> 
> the glasses shutters just need to be at the same rate (although not sure if L/R synchronization matters - and no idea how they can synchronize 1/60th of a second based on a random sitting distance, cable length, and all the VP going on).



Just curious, what would sitting distance and cable length have to do with sync?


----------



## hoehne

People have talked about street prices for the Anthem D2V which are significantly less than MSRP. Where or how would I go about obtaining one at tless than MSRP?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17928602
> 
> 
> 
> But whatever - 1080p60 is supported with current hardware. No matter what FUD is out there, the TV will be displaying the two 1080p30 set of frames sequentially, just like a 1080p60 stream would anyway.
> 
> 
> What am I missing (other than FUD)?



Refresh rate.


3D requires twice the refresh rate.


1080p30x2 frames for each image x2 = 120Hz.. HDMi 1.3 does not support that.


From the HDMI 1.4 specifications:



> Quote:
> 3D:
> 
> The 1.4 version of the specification defines common 3D _formats_ and _resolutions_ for HDMI-enabled devices, enabling 3D gaming and other 3D video applications. The specification standardizes the input/output portion of the home 3D system, facilitating 3D resolutions up to *dual-stream* 1080p



Please don't accuse me of spreading FUD...


HDMI 1.0-1.3 works fine when all we have is HD and BR, with a max 1920x1080 resolution and 60Hz refresh rates... I think this is the first time since the spec was introduced where that might actually change the display capability and content market down the road...



> Quote:
> Anyway, "requiring" 1.4 sounds like "requiring" 1.3. As it turned out, 1.3 really isn't required for anything, it just helps ensure that both sides understand each other a little better. I don't even think 1.3 is technically "required" for bitstreaming, is it?



HDMI 1.3 is required for bit streaming HBR lossy and lossless codecs, even with ffdshow and a PC.


HDMI isn't just a connector, and the chipsets also include instructions on how to transmit various parts of a signal.. HDMI 1.1 and 1.2 cannot bitstream HBR codecs. (just like HDMI 1.1 cannot send DSD...)


It is true that HDMI, up until 1.4, has offered the same _quality_ material (i.e. you could decode True HD and send it as PCM) for all of it's versions up to 1.3... what has changed is the way in which form the content is passed from one unit to another, how devices were tested and certified, etc....


I agree about it not being a requirement to get all you can from media available up to this point., and as some will remember, I was one of those who screamed those facts for a long time as 1.3 was coming to market.. probably even in this thread, and long before you bought your Anthem.


However, HDMI 1.4 offers a host of new features that aren't available with the older versions of the spec, and some that do change the fundamental quality (and nature) of the content that can be delivered over the cable


4k resolution

additional color space support (for photos, etc..)

advanced 3d support

audio return channels (for if you are using, for example, the OTA tuner in your tv set and want to send the audio to your receiver, you can now do it over the cable and not have to connect an optical cable...)


Granted, nothing earth shattering, and nothing that gives anyone anything urgent to think about for audio, BR or broadcast HD content, but there are differences none the less...


In the end I don't think this will make a big difference to most consumers, or even enthusiasts (it will be big with sports fans and gamers).. you and I can probably agree on that, I think.










Sorry for the long, OT ramble..


----------



## slots1

Loved the Paridigm Anthem demo. Great sound and picture. Yes, we had to wait in line. Again sorry to hear that when the new D3 does come out it will not be subject to an upgrade or exchange. And the rep made it sound like it will be about 2 years away. I guess I will have to wait longer with my D2. Dolby also had a great 6 minute demo using the new Star Trek. Gave out a demo of blue ray sound.


----------



## stummala

I received a new (NON-ARC) dsp board from Andrew at Anthem. Installed it in 5 minutes. STILL HAVE THE ANNOYING NOISE!! AND, the unit has NO sound output whatsoever, response via remote is slow, etc. The unit STILL says "AVM50/ARC" when booting up. So, reinstalled the ARC DSP board...at least now I have audio...just with the super loud and irritating switching noises!


HELP!


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Foo* /forum/post/17926354
> 
> 
> Want to ask the aformentioned question again so as it doesn't get buried in this thread, given that there are now at least 4 other AVM-50/ARC owners haven't to deal with this static issue:
> 
> 
> Do any of you NOT have any connections to the analog inputs and are still getting this issue?
> 
> 
> ( just wondering if this is what triggered it )
> 
> 
> ... and it's not only when I switch HDMI inputs do I get this noise. It happens ANYTIME there is an interuption in the video - something sometimes unexpected that can't simply be mitigated by pre-muting the system.



I have an AVM-50 with the ARC upagrad, have no analogue inputs connected and have always had the static problem. I thought it was just part of HDMI...


It would be nice to get rid of it if possible...



Ed


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17928602
> 
> 
> Huh? That makes no sense. The TV can't display them at the same time. They will clearly be displayed sequentially, and sent sequentially, and the glasses shutters just need to be at the same rate (although not sure if L/R synchronization matters - and no idea how they can synchronize 1/60th of a second based on a random sitting distance, cable length, and all the VP going on).
> 
> 
> Anyway, "requiring" 1.4 sounds like "requiring" 1.3. As it turned out, 1.3 really isn't required for anything, it just helps ensure that both sides understand each other a little better. I don't even think 1.3 is technically "required" for bitstreaming, is it? Meaning I can use ffmpeg w/ bitstreaming support on a HTPC with an HDMI 1.1 port?
> 
> 
> But whatever - 1080p60 is supported with current hardware. No matter what FUD is out there, the TV will be displaying the two 1080p30 set of frames sequentially, just like a 1080p60 stream would anyway.
> 
> 
> What am I missing (other than FUD)?



I don't think it's FUD.


As I understand it 1.3 will pass 3D, but not at 1080p. HDMI 1.3 will only do 1080i max for 3D. It is an issue with the 1.3 transmitter/receiver set and as FilmMixer has pointed out the refresh rate of the display.


If you have a set-top box that is 1.3 with a max display of 1080i, it will display 3D as 540i.


You will have to have 1.4 to have 1080p for 3D. Here's an HDMI 1.4 FAQ on the spec.

http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdm...i_1_4_faq.aspx 

http://www.hdmi.org/devcon2009/DevCo...nal_091809.pdf 




HDMI 1.3 gave you the ability to transmit the lossless codecs. I think that was a big plus.


I not so interested in 3D. But the additional resolution capability, 4K, that HDMI 1.4 brings is also a big plus I think. Of course non of it is "necessary" if you're not interested in having it.


I'm afraid the D2v is a mature product and will be replaced by a totally new platform. That does not mean it will not continue to be a good or useful product. But Anthem will have to move on to remain in the game, 3D or not.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17928611
> 
> 
> Super. Even the D2\\D2v etal, thread is no refuge from the hype machine that is 3D.



It was ok for almost a week but since yesterday the 3D mania catch-up.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17929036
> 
> 
> 
> Granted, nothing earth shattering, and nothing that gives anyone anything urgent to think about for audio, BR or broadcast HD content, but there are differences none the less...
> 
> 
> In the end I don't think this will make a big difference to most consumers, or even enthusiasts (it will be big with sports fans and gamers).. you and I can probably agree on that, I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the long, OT ramble..



100% agree with you.


Even more knowing that:


4k resolution: Since there is no source material before long time will only be usefull for Photo display and gamers.


advanced 3d support: No need to go through the prepro to achieve it. Dual output BD player with 3D support or HDMI splitter will do the job.


audio return channels (for if you are using, for example, the OTA tuner in your tv set and want to send the audio to your receiver, you can now do it over the cable and not have to connect an optical cable...) : More or less useless.


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17930064
> 
> 
> ...advanced 3d support: No need to go through the prepro to achieve it. Dual output BD player with 3D support or HDMI splitter will do the job.



Maybe, maybe not.


Assuming there is no audio video synchronization issue between a 1.4 video stream and a 1.3 audio stream with the associated equipment.


Only time will tell.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17929036
> 
> 
> Refresh rate.
> 
> 
> 3D requires twice the refresh rate.
> 
> 
> 1080p30x2 frames for each image x2 = 120Hz.. HDMi 1.3 does not support that.
> 
> 
> From the HDMI 1.4 specifications:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please don't accuse me of spreading FUD...
> 
> 
> HDMI 1.0-1.3 works fine when all we have is HD and BR, with a max 1920x1080 resolution and 60Hz refresh rates... I think this is the first time since the spec was introduced where that might actually change the display capability and content market down the road...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HDMI 1.3 is required for bit streaming HBR lossy and lossless codecs, even with ffdshow and a PC.
> 
> 
> HDMI isn't just a connector, and the chipsets also include instructions on how to transmit various parts of a signal.. HDMI 1.1 and 1.2 cannot bitstream HBR codecs. (just like HDMI 1.1 cannot send DSD...)
> 
> 
> It is true that HDMI, up until 1.4, has offered the same _quality_ material (i.e. you could decode True HD and send it as PCM) for all of it's versions up to 1.3... what has changed is the way in which form the content is passed from one unit to another, how devices were tested and certified, etc....
> 
> 
> I agree about it not being a requirement to get all you can from media available up to this point., and as some will remember, I was one of those who screamed those facts for a long time as 1.3 was coming to market.. probably even in this thread, and long before you bought your Anthem.
> 
> 
> However, HDMI 1.4 offers a host of new features that aren't available with the older versions of the spec, and some that do change the fundamental quality (and nature) of the content that can be delivered over the cable
> 
> 
> 4k resolution
> 
> additional color space support (for photos, etc..)
> 
> advanced 3d support
> 
> audio return channels (for if you are using, for example, the OTA tuner in your tv set and want to send the audio to your receiver, you can now do it over the cable and not have to connect an optical cable...)
> 
> 
> Granted, nothing earth shattering, and nothing that gives anyone anything urgent to think about for audio, BR or broadcast HD content, but there are differences none the less...
> 
> 
> In the end I don't think this will make a big difference to most consumers, or even enthusiasts (it will be big with sports fans and gamers).. you and I can probably agree on that, I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the long, OT ramble..



Again, I think you're confusing FUD with reality. The last list of things you mention is all new functionality, and HDMI 1.4 would likely be required.


HOWEVER... 1080p30 x 2 = 1080p60 (not 120). You could easily send a full 1080p30 3D signal using existing HDMI 1.3, resulting in a 1080p60 stream.


You can quote as much marketing material as you want, but technically there are no issues with full 1080p30 3D on existing equipment. (And I hope you realize the error in your original statement that they are magically sent at the same time?)


For more "advanced 3D", like 1080p60 x 2, sure, you'd need HDMI 1.4 for a 1080p120 (or greater) signal. But that's not necessary, it's just a bonus.


And current set top boxes are meaningless in this context. We're talking pre-pros and displays, most/all of which can easily handle 1080p60 in and out. Of course you'd need a new source device, but something like the PS3 (assuming it can do 1080p60) can easily to 1080p30 3D without any hardware changes. And without any resolution loss.


And like HDMI 1.3, HDMI 1.1 allows for full, uncompressed HD audio, just over LPCM. We can argue if there's any audible difference, but I hope that in this thread we all know it's indentical (and in many cases, preferred).


Anyway, I don't think HDMI 1.4 is *required* for 1080p 3D, at least at a 30p refresh rate for each "stream". I'm sure there are more advanced 3D capabilities, but none of them are *required*.


But, if you want to fall prey to the TV industry trying to make you replace all your equipment and wear goofy glasses to watch "Jaws The Revenge in Super-3D", go for it.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17925986
> 
> 
> Hello Bob and others.
> 
> Attached is my very funny room layout. I have a 60 hz dip from sub.
> 
> would you guys look at my room layout and help me to eliminate the dip.
> 
> I really appreciate your comments.



Can you post your plots as well including the targets?


How is your stereo imaging?


This asymmetric room setup appears to have its challenges.


Also, have you tried different sub locations and remeasured?


Tim


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17930591
> 
> 
> Again, I think you're confusing FUD with reality. The last list of things you mention is all new functionality, and HDMI 1.4 would likely be required.
> 
> 
> HOWEVER... 1080p30 x 2 = 1080p60 (not 120). You could easily send a full 1080p30 3D signal using existing HDMI 1.3, resulting in a 1080p60 stream.
> 
> 
> You can quote as much marketing material as you want, but technically there are no issues with full 1080p30 3D on existing equipment. (And I hope you realize the error in your original statement that they are magically sent at the same time?)
> 
> 
> ... but something like the PS3 (assuming it can do 1080p60) can easily to 1080p30 3D without any hardware changes. And without any resolution loss.



First off, I will say I think, in the nicest possible terms, that you are being very rude... but I've been treated worse around here, so I'm used to it...


You don't understand how 3D works.... there was not error on my part. They are transmitted simultaneously.

Panasonic Press Release about new plasma 3D display 



> Quote:
> Full HD (1920 x 1080 pixels) image processing occurs _*on both the left- and right-sided 3D images in every single process*_ - from recording, playback and display. With a special pair of glasses, the viewer is able to experience 3D images formed with _*twice the volume of information as regular full HD images*_, and enjoy them together with high-quality surround sound.













You're right... it's not magic. It's AVS, minus the A..


You cannot do 1080p 3D with HDMI 1.3. Period.


You can do it at 1/2 the resolution, which is how the PS3 will work.

DVice article about HDMI 1.3 and 3D 



> Quote:
> And you won't get full 1080p 3D via an upgraded HDMI 1.3 box, either — just half or quarter resolution, depending on the source. _*HDMI 1.3 isn't powerful enough to stream near-simultaneous 1080p frames. From a full 1080p source such as Blu-ray or a satellite receiver, you'll instead get dual 1080i images to create 3D*_; from a cable box, you'll get dual 540i images.



----------------



> Quote:
> And like HDMI 1.3, HDMI 1.1 allows for full, uncompressed HD audio, just over LPCM. We can argue if there's any audible difference, but I hope that in this thread we all know it's indentical (and in many cases, preferred).



If you knew me, I think you'd safely be able to say that I am one of the least likely people to fall prey to anything new just because some marketers told me to.. (and my quote from from the HDMI.org web site, not some marketer or manufacturer...)


I never disputed what you are saying about 1.3 vs. 1.1 and the ability to pass uncompressed audio.. in fact, if you go back and read my post I said the exact same thing... and I was one of the most vocal people in the "Why you don't need HDMI 1.3 thread" when it was raging a couple of years ago... so please stop putting words in my mouth, or intimating that I suggested things contrary to your responses.



> Quote:
> But, if you want to fall prey to the TV industry trying to make you replace all your equipment and wear goofy glasses to watch "Jaws The Revenge in Super-3D", go for it.



Where did I say I was going to, and where did I say that others should..


----------



## Picasso Moon

I thought this was the "Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide". Isn't there a better forum for you guys to argue about the technicalities of 3D?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/17931278
> 
> 
> I thought this was the "Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide". Isn't there a better forum for you guys to argue about the technicalities of 3D?



Yes... sorry.. I'm done.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/17931278
> 
> 
> I thought this was the "Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide". Isn't there a better forum for you guys to argue about the technicalities of 3D?



They were trying to tweak the EXISTING products to run 3D


----------



## usxplong

Quote:

Originally Posted by *emailtim* 
Can you post your plots as well including the targets?


How is your stereo imaging?


This asymmetric room setup appears to have its challenges.


Also, have you tried different sub locations and remeasured?


Tim
Thanks for your time emailtim.

I have not tried the sub relocation yet. The stereo imaging is great and movies sound excellent but I am missing between 50 hz and 80 hz with the 60 hz the deepest.

Attached are my charts.

I appreciate your help.

 

Arc 1.doc 123.5k . file

 

Arc 2.doc 123k . file

 

Arc 3.doc 135k . file


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/17931278
> 
> 
> I thought this was the "Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide". Isn't there a better forum for you guys to argue about the technicalities of 3D?



THANK YOU, Lets have more worries about Anthem fixing the PRESENT equipment..


----------



## greyflag

My 6 channel analog inputs are connected for SACD, but hardly ever used. All other input/output connections are HDMI and I experience the same symptoms as Mr. Foo. For instance, when last nights' movie ended, the sound presents itself as the disc switches back to the menu screen. Rather than static, this could be noise generated by DSP itself.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17931096
> 
> 
> First off, I will say I think, in the nicest possible terms, that you are being very rude... but I've been treated worse around here, so I'm used to it...
> 
> 
> You don't understand how 3D works.... there was not error on my part. They are transmitted simultaneously.
> 
> Panasonic Press Release about new plasma 3D display
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're right... it's not magic. It's AVS, minus the A..
> 
> 
> You cannot do 1080p 3D with HDMI 1.3. Period.
> 
> 
> You can do it at 1/2 the resolution, which is how the PS3 will work.
> 
> DVice article about HDMI 1.3 and 3D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you knew me, I think you'd safely be able to say that I am one of the least likely people to fall prey to anything new just because some marketers told me to.. (and my quote from from the HDMI.org web site, not some marketer or manufacturer...)
> 
> 
> I never disputed what you are saying about 1.3 vs. 1.1 and the ability to pass uncompressed audio.. in fact, if you go back and read my post I said the exact same thing... and I was one of the most vocal people in the "Why you don't need HDMI 1.3 thread" when it was raging a couple of years ago... so please stop putting words in my mouth, or intimating that I suggested things contrary to your responses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did I say I was going to, and where did I say that others should..



So you keep posting from people with a vested interest in forcing upgrades, but say you're not just echoing marketing content? Okay.


And everything clearly states they are *not* sending simulataneous frames. All TV is based on refresh rates, which define the speed of sequential frame. 3D is no different. The only difference is the silly glasses limiting which frame each eye sees.


Again, this isn't being rude, I'm just pointing out that I think you're confusing higher refresh rates with everything else. The only thing HDMI 1.4 gives you (related to 3D) is support for 1080p > 60. "Near simultaneous" is marketing speak for 120Hz or better.


Current equipment is completely capable of doing full 1080p30 3D, period.

Now, if the source devices refuse to do 1080p30 3D, that's a business limitation, not a technical one. And perhaps 30Hz with shutter glasses has been determined to be too slow and causes headaches or something, that's fine too.


But again, my point is simply that 1080p30 3D can work today, with existing equipment - AVRs, pre-pros, TVs - since it's only 1080p60 when displayed.


Feel free to continue to disagree without any specific substantiation though...


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/17931278
> 
> 
> I thought this was the "Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide". Isn't there a better forum for you guys to argue about the technicalities of 3D?



Get used to it this will happen all the time until we get the a 1.4 compatible D2V replacement.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/17931096
> 
> 
> 
> You cannot do 1080p 3D with HDMI 1.3. Period.
> 
> 
> You can do it at 1/2 the resolution, which is how the PS3 will work.
> 
> here did I say I was going to, and where did I say that others should..



Why half the resolution why not 1080i60


Even if it is not ideal why rush to get to a 1.4 fully compliant setup now when there is no source material and there would be anything valuable before years. I don't consider ESPN as being valuable source material. Yes and want to watch 3D but do not see huge interest in spending on it since I will watch less than 50 movies at best over 1-2 years.


Unless we all watch Avatar twice a week for the next 2-3 years. This is not Blu-Ray where source material was fast to produce.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17932931
> 
> 
> Get used to it this will happen all the time until we get the a 1.4 compatible D2V replacement.



Almost. This is going to happen until people get tired of peeing their pants over 3D.

This does not refer to Roger or Filmmixer in any way.

There's nothing new of substance on the AV horizon right now and the CE firms have seized upon in-home 3D as their new salvation.

Only time will tell re: market penetration, but one thing I'm sure of is that they'll screw it up.


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/17932931
> 
> 
> Get used to it this will happen all the time until we get the a 1.4 compatible D2V replacement.



This sounds like a D3 or D3.V, or even a D4 WOW, we are in the FUTURE.

Our units can't even work on HDMI 1.3c. and you are looking for 3D from Anthem. I luv Anthem, but give them a break. Anthem products rock, Service-Awesome, Sound- what can I say, PRICELESS..

HDMI 1.4, 3D Next generation,,,,,2 years????? http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/images/icons/icon7.gif


----------



## stummala

Well...I removed the ARC-DSP board, installed the NON-ARC DSP board that Anthem sent me, tried to load the 1.33 firmware, bricked the damn AVM50 (expensive paperweight wouldn't even turn on!).


Then decided to use the flash eraser to erase the EEPROM. That worked successfully (according to the EEPROM eraser program). Still wouldn't turn on.


Decided to try to reload the 1.33 firmware. Unit says cannot recognize serial number. Decided to try to reload the 1.33 firmware from my office PC. Drove to the office at 9pm. IT WORKED! In 10 minutes, the 1.33 reinstalled, the unit turned on/off/on, etc. Got the green check mark. Now the unit is back to the NON-ARC AVM50 state and working PERFECTLY without the stupid humming/hissing noises.


So now....WHAT IS THE FIX FOR AN ARC UPGRADE??? If it means to live with the humming/hissing from the ARC-DSP board, as nice as the ARC is, I would rather sell my unit and buy and AVM50v (or D2) vs. living with the humming/hissing.


Anthem HAS to have an answer rather than charging $800 for a faulty upgrade; especially if I'm not the only one with this issue.


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stummala* /forum/post/17936545
> 
> 
> Well...I removed the ARC-DSP board, installed the NON-ARC DSP board that Anthem sent me, tried to load the 1.33 firmware, bricked the damn AVM50 (expensive paperweight wouldn't even turn on!).
> 
> 
> Then decided to use the flash eraser to erase the EEPROM. That worked successfully (according to the EEPROM eraser program). Still wouldn't turn on.
> 
> 
> Decided to try to reload the 1.33 firmware. Unit says cannot recognize serial number. Decided to try to reload the 1.33 firmware from my office PC. Drove to the office at 9pm. IT WORKED! In 10 minutes, the 1.33 reinstalled, the unit turned on/off/on, etc. Got the green check mark. Now the unit is back to the NON-ARC AVM50 state and working PERFECTLY without the stupid humming/hissing noises.
> 
> 
> So now....WHAT IS THE FIX FOR AN ARC UPGRADE??? If it means to live with the humming/hissing from the ARC-DSP board, as nice as the ARC is, I would rather sell my unit and buy and AVM50v (or D2) vs. living with the humming/hissing.
> 
> 
> Anthem HAS to have an answer rather than charging $800 for a faulty upgrade; especially if I'm not the only one with this issue.



I understand your frustration. Why don't you send it in for the repair? If there is something else wrong other than the issue(s) you are trying to fix, when Anthem test the unit post repair, they will find the problem and rectify it prior to returning a fully functional unit.


----------



## hoehne

I believe I found the answer to this question in a round about way, but if I were to purchase a 6 month old Anthem D2V from Audiogon, would I have the balance of the warranty or is the warranty only for the original owner?


If I were able to get the original purchase receipt, would that be sufficient?


Does warranty service have to be through the dealer the item was purchased from or is the warranty handled directly through Anthem?


I purchased a used Proceed AVP years ago and had the luxury of sending the unit to Proceed directly for warranty work and there was never a need even for a receipt since the unit itself was dated on the name plate.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/17938168
> 
> 
> I believe I found the answer to this question in a round about way, but if I were to purchase a 6 month old Anthem D2V from Audiogon, would I have the balance of the warranty or is the warranty only for the original owner?
> 
> 
> If I were able to get the original purchase receipt, would that be sufficient?
> 
> 
> Does warranty service have to be through the dealer the item was purchased from or is the warranty handled directly through Anthem?
> 
> 
> I purchased a used Proceed AVP years ago and had the luxury of sending the unit to Proceed directly for warranty work and there was never a need even for a receipt since the unit itself was dated on the name plate.



My understanding is you need to have bought it from a licensed dealer. I sold my AVM50 and was told that for the guy who bought it from me. The seller can sell it to a dealer and they sell it to you. Hard if you're not in the same areas.

John


----------



## stummala

I DID send it to Anthem for repair. All this stuff happened AS SOON as I received it. Clearly it wasn't properly tested. Not to mention, it was gone for nearly 2.5 weeks for a firmware flash. Anyhow, now it's working perfectly. BUT, I'm told by Andrew that if I upgrade to ARC, the problem may reoccur after the upgrade.


Unacceptable....don't offer a broken upgrade. Either design components that work for retrofitting units, or don't offer them. But, don't charge me $800 for an ARC upgrade that causes hissing and humming as a byproduct.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17935425
> 
> 
> Almost. This is going to happen until people get tired of peeing their pants over 3D.
> 
> This does not refer to Roger or Filmmixer in any way.
> 
> There's nothing new of substance on the AV horizon right now and the CE firms have seized upon in-home 3D as their new salvation.
> 
> Only time will tell re: market penetration, but one thing I'm sure of is that they'll screw it up.



I again have to agree. 3d is not new and has never been adopted fully until recent marketing attempts seem to be reviving it. As far as the d2v not having hdmi 1.4 well who cares really....I have yet to see a source to utilize 1.3 to its full potential!


----------



## dwwhitley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Foo* /forum/post/17916782
> 
> 
> After upgrading my AVM-50 with ARC, I now get an annoying burst of static when switching HDMI inputs. I am running with v1.33 firmware.
> 
> 
> Anyone else experience this?
> 
> 
> Does a recent firmware fix this problem (I'm lazy and have been living with this for a while so I am likely on an old FW version but don't want to upgrade if I don't have to)



I get a burst of loud static when hdmi switching video sources. In addition, I will get horizontal lines running full length and width of the screen. It requires shutting down AVM 50 and restarting to clear the lines. The static noise happens every time; the horizontal lines occur about 50 percent of the time. I am using the Oppo blu-ray player and pioneer elite.


----------



## emailtim

usxplong,


I looked at your charts. When you do your next measurements, bump up the master gain so your target line is @ 75dB. This is a Dolby baseline.


All of your charts have a dip at 15KHz. If you search the forum, there is some question if there is a problem @ 15KHz with the ARC mic. You will see that same dip at 15KHz on a lot of other people's charts (including mine). Some advise not to run the solution all the way up past after 15KHz, otherwise it may be trying to correct a problem with the mic and not the room which will cause an artificial spike at 15KHz.


The only way that I know to see if this is a true problem at 15KHz is to measure with another mic. I am in the process of setting up Room EQ Wizard (REW) with another mic to validate what the ARC mic is telling me. I also want to measure the room with ARC's calibrations in place to see how it actually compares to its proposed solution line since ARC does not let you remeasure the room with its correction applied (compare theory to reality =).


As with your sub, I would try a few new positions and remeasure just the sub (and L/R front) for a quicker measure to see if the 60Hz dip corrects itself by placement alone. You can always move it back if the new locations produce worse responses. Be sure not to move the mic. All 5 measurements can all be done at the same place for these quick measurements. First remeasure just your existing sub location with the mic in the same place and save that plot because it will be different than the averaged plot with the mic in 5 different spots. Use this as your baseline for the next sub relocation measurements.


Let us know if the 60Hz dip changes with different placements.


FWIW, I noticed when I measure just my L/R with ARC, the entire plot is low by @ 6dB (below 75dB) for some reason (inconsistency in the ARC software?). When I go back and remeasure all 8 speakers, it goes back up to the 75dB level with out changing anything but the number of speakers being measured.


HTH,

Tim


----------



## gdc

We had a 2 hour power outage this morning and my D2 seems to have lost it's mind: Video, no audio; slow response to remote.


I saw that people have seen this before either unplugging for a time (i.e. vacation) or extended power outage. The fix seems to be to use the flash eraser and then reload system software.


I tried reloading system software but I get an error "Cannot exit debug mode." So it seems I cannot reload the system without doing a flash erase.


Could someone either pm me and send me the flash eraser OR pm me with the password for the beta area on Anthem's site (I seem to remember that the flash eraser is there).


I really don't want to wait until Monday to get the eraser if I can help it.


I have a D2, so if the flash eraser is different for AVM50/D2v etc, then I need the specific D2 one.


Thanks in advance for saving my weekend movie watching!


----------



## tranle

For gdc: if you can still access the front panel, make sure you do the following:

- power down using the back switch.

- remove all hdmi connection

- power up and using the front panel and do a reload factory config.

- then try to reflash.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/17940630
> 
> 
> For gdc: if you can still access the front panel, make sure you do the following:
> 
> - power down using the back switch.
> 
> - remove all hdmi connection
> 
> - power up and using the front panel and do a reload factory config.
> 
> - then try to reflash.



Did that initially, no joy.


----------



## stummala

Just wondering folks, those of us with Anthem AVMs and Statement processors, it would be neat if there was a way, a database perhaps with pull-downs, where you could select the processer ("AVM50" perhaps) and player ("PS3"), and the output device ("Panasonic PT-AE4000U Projector") for example, and the "correct settings combination" would show up.


For example, I have the above combo: AVM50, PS3, AE4000U projector connected via HDMI. It would be nice to know the BEST settings on the PS3 (1080p/24fps on? off? auto?), etc. On the AVM50 video settings for the PS3/AE4000u combo, etc., etc.


Or, for simplicity, we could put together a simple list? For example, for 24fps setting:


PS3: 1080p/24fps - Auto

AVM50/D2: Frame Lock - Auto

AE4000U: 1080p/24fps - native result


Thoughts?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stummala* /forum/post/17942758
> 
> 
> Just wondering folks, those of us with Anthem AVMs and Statement processors, it would be neat if there was a way, a database perhaps with pull-downs, where you could select the processer ("AVM50" perhaps) and player ("PS3"), and the output device ("Panasonic PT-AE4000U Projector") for example, and the "correct settings combination" would show up.
> 
> 
> For example, I have the above combo: AVM50, PS3, AE4000U projector connected via HDMI. It would be nice to know the BEST settings on the PS3 (1080p/24fps on? off? auto?), etc. On the AVM50 video settings for the PS3/AE4000u combo, etc., etc.
> 
> 
> Or, for simplicity, we could put together a simple list? For example, for 24fps setting:
> 
> 
> PS3: 1080p/24fps - Auto
> 
> AVM50/D2: Frame Lock - Auto
> 
> AE4000U: 1080p/24fps - native result
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



There are at least (2) FAQ threads I know about.

*PS3*

*Anthem*


There probably is one for the AE4000U


----------



## jayray

I was playing a stereo cd and tried Anthem Logic Music but didn't hear anything from the surrounds. I can't remember if this was an issue earlier or if it was and still isn't fixed. Thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17944978
> 
> 
> I was playing a stereo cd and tried Anthem Logic Music but didn't hear anything from the surrounds. I can't remember if this was an issue earlier or if it was and still isn't fixed. Thanks,
> 
> John



There is a known bug where sometimes the Mode Preset you have established does not get correctly applied when you switch to 2.0 content input. In the V2.08 (and "test" V2.08a) firmware it seems to be most likely to happen when playing the 44.1KHz LPCM stereo content from normal CD discs. If you press Select repeatedly, you will see that only LF/RF and Sub are active for output even though the audio mode you are using should be firing the other speakers as well.


Anthem has acknowledge the problem and I expect the fix will be in the next firmware.


The workaround is to manually change the audio mode to anything else and back again to whatever you originally intended to use (Mode button plus Up/Down arrows). If that fixes the problem then what you have is this known bug.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stummala* /forum/post/17942758
> 
> 
> Just wondering folks, those of us with Anthem AVMs and Statement processors, it would be neat if there was a way, a database perhaps with pull-downs, where you could select the processer ("AVM50" perhaps) and player ("PS3"), and the output device ("Panasonic PT-AE4000U Projector") for example, and the "correct settings combination" would show up.
> 
> 
> For example, I have the above combo: AVM50, PS3, AE4000U projector connected via HDMI. It would be nice to know the BEST settings on the PS3 (1080p/24fps on? off? auto?), etc. On the AVM50 video settings for the PS3/AE4000u combo, etc., etc.
> 
> 
> Or, for simplicity, we could put together a simple list? For example, for 24fps setting:
> 
> 
> PS3: 1080p/24fps - Auto
> 
> AVM50/D2: Frame Lock - Auto
> 
> AE4000U: 1080p/24fps - native result
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



On your database request, we need a volunteer to do the work.


Note that the "best" settings may be different for different people due to personal preference or other factors such as 5.1 vs. 7.1 speakers.



For the PS3 connected to an original AVM 50 or Statement D2, I recommend you:


1) Use HDMI LPCM for audio from the PS3


2) Use HDMI YCbCr for video from the PS3


3) Turn SuperWhite ON


4) Setup 1080p/24 output to Auto on the PS3, regardless of whether or not your display is able to "do the right thing" with 1080p/24. [If not, the Anthem will raise the frame rate to /60 for output to your display.]


5) Set max 1080p output on the PS3, turn upscaling on, and leave it that way for both Blu-Ray and SD-DVD discs. NOTE 1: The PS3 is not able to de-interlace "live concert" style Blu-Rays which have content on disc as 1080i/60, so such discs will still send 1080i/60 to the Anthem. NOTE 2: The PS3 is not known for being an exceptionally high quality SD-DVD player, but since it will not output HDMI 480i (to let the Anthem do the work) your next best choice is 1080p. Or use another player for SD-DVD playback. NOTE 3: Games and NetFlix HD streaming will be 720p from the PS3.


Your setup for getting 1080p/24 from the Anthem to your display is fine.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/17940581
> 
> 
> We had a 2 hour power outage this morning and my D2 seems to have lost it's mind: Video, no audio; slow response to remote.
> 
> 
> I saw that people have seen this before either unplugging for a time (i.e. vacation) or extended power outage. The fix seems to be to use the flash eraser and then reload system software.
> 
> 
> I tried reloading system software but I get an error "Cannot exit debug mode." So it seems I cannot reload the system without doing a flash erase.
> 
> 
> Could someone either pm me and send me the flash eraser OR pm me with the password for the beta area on Anthem's site (I seem to remember that the flash eraser is there).
> 
> 
> I really don't want to wait until Monday to get the eraser if I can help it.
> 
> 
> I have a D2, so if the flash eraser is different for AVM50/D2v etc, then I need the specific D2 one.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for saving my weekend movie watching!



The problem is not so much that the D2 is without power as that other devices are dumping power out on their cables when you have a sudden power failure like that, and this incoming surge on various interconnect cables causes the problem in your D2. Power amps (or subwooofers which have built in amps) seem to be the primary culprits.


You are correct that you need the Flash Eraser. After you run it, you will need to reload the unit firmware.


There is one Flash Eraser program that covers all the AVM and Statement models except the original AVM 20 (i.e., AVM 20-HD and above). Version 2.2 dated from May of 2009 is the latest one as I recall.


However if you don't already have it by now, I'm afraid I'm going to have to ask you to wait until Monday, as Anthem has asked us not to distribute those items or give out the access info here on AVS. It's no big secret, but they are trying to keep some sort of track of who is using these things and make sure they have a chance to walk you through the process.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dwwhitley* /forum/post/17938773
> 
> 
> I get a burst of loud static when hdmi switching video sources. In addition, I will get horizontal lines running full length and width of the screen. It requires shutting down AVM 50 and restarting to clear the lines. The static noise happens every time; the horizontal lines occur about 50 percent of the time. I am using the Oppo blu-ray player and pioneer elite.



For everyone experiencing problems like this using an original AVM 50 with ARC, get in touch with Anthem tech support and see if you can get a hardware repair -- e.g., replacing the ARC DSP board.


Keep in mind that if you bought an ARC Upgrade for your original AVM 50 that the upgrade itself comes with its own, new warranty.


I don't know that Anthem has a good answer as to why this is happening in some AVM 50/ARC setups, but it does not appear to be happening to everyone, which means it is likely a problem with the integration between the specific ARC DSP board and the main board of the AVM 50.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/17938168
> 
> 
> I believe I found the answer to this question in a round about way, but if I were to purchase a 6 month old Anthem D2V from Audiogon, would I have the balance of the warranty or is the warranty only for the original owner?
> 
> 
> If I were able to get the original purchase receipt, would that be sufficient?
> 
> 
> Does warranty service have to be through the dealer the item was purchased from or is the warranty handled directly through Anthem?
> 
> 
> I purchased a used Proceed AVP years ago and had the luxury of sending the unit to Proceed directly for warranty work and there was never a need even for a receipt since the unit itself was dated on the name plate.



Anthem's warranty for North America does *NOT* transfer to a new owner unless the used equipment is sold to the new owner by an authorized Anthem dealer (e.g., the dealer got a used unit in trade from another owner, and sold it to the new owner).


Sometimes you can arrange for an authorized dealer to be the intermediary on the transaction for a small commission.


The warranty for North America can be found at the back of the Anthem manuals which can be downloaded from the Anthem web site.


For overseas customers, warranty coverage is based on the local arrangement Anthem has with each international distributor, so you'll need to call Anthem or the distributor for your area to get details.


For units covered by warranty, you can indeed deal with Anthem directly for warranty repairs, although many folks still do it through their dealers because the dealer offers to cover the shipping. Some simple repairs can even be done at the dealership with Anthem shipping replacement parts to the dealer.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17925774
> 
> 
> My current HDMI 1.3 D2v supports 1080p60, as does my HDMI 1.3 Sony VW60. Why can't 1080p30x2 3D work just fine with all that current hardware, and something to control the ugly, annoying glasses?



The simple answer is because the industry wants to force you to buy new hardware. Ka-ching!


That's what *ALL* this stuff is really about.


To keep down the mobs with the pitchforks and torches, the industry will allow wimpy "compatibility" 3D at lower resolution and/or frame rate -- via firmware upgrades that may or may not be available sometime -- eventually -- after the "new, improved" products are on the shelves. This helps in selling off old inventory of course.


But don't expect to find a sympathetic ear if you discover some discs aren't really compatible with older hardware. The error code on the display may not actually say, "UR2CHEAP", but that's what the phone support people will be thinking when you call in.


--------------------------------------------------


Realistically, I don't expect Anthem to rush to support either 3D or HDMI V1.4. Let the companies who knock out 2 or 3 new models a year duke it out until a commercially viable "standard" actually reveals itself. If ever.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17946221
> 
> 
> For everyone experiencing problems like this using an original AVM 50 with ARC, get in touch with Anthem tech support and see if you can get a hardware repair -- e.g., replacing the ARC DSP board.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that if you bought an ARC Upgrade for your original AVM 50 that the upgrade itself comes with its own, new warranty.
> 
> 
> I don't know that Anthem has a good answer as to why this is happening in some AVM 50/ARC setups, but it does not appear to be happening to everyone, which means it is likely a problem with the integration between the specific ARC DSP board and the main board of the AVM 50.
> 
> --Bob



When I had my AVM50, as you might remember, I had long standing screeching issues when I switched between inputs. When I eventually did send it back to Anthem, they said they could not duplicate the issue in their lab, but I thought Piero told me they changed the video board and the power supply in any case as these would likely be the culprits based on my description. I don't recall him telling me they changed the ARC DSP board, but perhaps they did and I may have misunderstood what he told me they replaced. I never did try it when I got it back as I went to the D2v and sold the AVM50.


----------



## bgrounds

I'm thinking of buying a DAC (PS Audio Perfect Wave) - What are your opinions around if there would be a substantial change in sound. Why would it be different than running through the D2? I will be running a Squeezbox to the DAC. Also, what would the best way to set it up? Thanks!


----------



## TboneofLA

Well it's been a long hiatus for me. I had to become a member again to create this message. Glad to be back on AVS Forum though and hope to be more often. I've been reading alot of posts in this thread and they have been very informative.


I just got my AVM50V on Friday and I was hoping for a little feedback on my ARC plots. I will be spending some additional time this week experimenting with different target settings even though the improvement has been significant thus far. It has really tamed the boom in my room.


Something I find disturbing about my plots is the dip at 10k (as much as 13dB) and the peak at 20k (as much as 10dB). I'm only running ARC up to 5k so it's outside the compensation range. Even if I run ARC to 20k the dips and peaks are too big to compensate for.


A few questions that come to mind are:

1. Is this a characteristic of my room?

2. Is this due to the speakers? All are Paradigm Studio Reference V2's (100's, CC, 40's and 60's) which other test data shows relatively flat response curves.

3. Is it due to test methods? Microphone height, placement in room etc.

4. Is it the test equipment?

5. Is it affecting the results below 5k?


Any feedback is appreciated.


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TboneofLA* /forum/post/17946867
> 
> 
> Well it's been a long hiatus for me. I had to become a member again to create this message. Glad to be back on AVS Forum though and hope to be more often. I've been reading alot of posts in this thread and they have been very informative.
> 
> 
> I just got my AVM50V on Friday and I was hoping for a little feedback on my ARC plots. I will be spending some additional time this week experimenting with different target settings even though the improvement has been significant thus far. It has really tamed the boom in my room.
> 
> 
> Something I find disturbing about my plots is the dip at 10k (as much as 13dB) and the peak at 20k (as much as 10dB). I'm only running ARC up to 5k so it's outside the compensation range. Even if I run ARC to 20k the dips and peaks are too big to compensate for.
> 
> 
> A few questions that come to mind are:
> 
> 1. Is this a characteristic of my room?
> 
> 2. Is this due to the speakers? All are Paradigm Studio Reference V2's (100's, CC, 40's and 60's) which other test data shows relatively flat response curves.
> 
> 3. Is it due to test methods? Microphone height, placement in room etc.
> 
> 4. Is it the test equipment?
> 
> 5. Is it affecting the results below 5k?
> 
> 
> Any feedback is appreciated.



That seems like a mic issue to me.... that it is so consistent, and then the huge spike back up to 20k, leads me to that conclusion.


----------



## obie_fl

Any perceived differences in the PS DAC will be more then offset by the use of ARC and the D2s DACs. I have my squeezebox connected directly to the D2 and use ARC. I do have a 2 channel tube system that I use with an external DAC and Squeezebox but I wouldn't even think of using an external DAC with the D2.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TboneofLA* /forum/post/17946867
> 
> 
> Well it's been a long hiatus for me. I had to become a member again to create this message. Glad to be back on AVS Forum though and hope to be more often. I've been reading alot of posts in this thread and they have been very informative.
> 
> 
> I just got my AVM50V on Friday and I was hoping for a little feedback on my ARC plots. I will be spending some additional time this week experimenting with different target settings even though the improvement has been significant thus far. It has really tamed the boom in my room.
> 
> 
> Something I find disturbing about my plots is the dip at 10k (as much as 13dB) and the peak at 20k (as much as 10dB). I'm only running ARC up to 5k so it's outside the compensation range. Even if I run ARC to 20k the dips and peaks are too big to compensate for.
> 
> 
> A few questions that come to mind are:
> 
> 1. Is this a characteristic of my room?
> 
> 2. Is this due to the speakers? All are Paradigm Studio Reference V2's (100's, CC, 40's and 60's) which other test data shows relatively flat response curves.
> 
> 3. Is it due to test methods? Microphone height, placement in room etc.
> 
> 4. Is it the test equipment?
> 
> 5. Is it affecting the results below 5k?
> 
> 
> Any feedback is appreciated.



Try remeasuring but lower your main EQ by 10dB so your targets are around 75dB.


It is interesting that all of your speakers are showing the same issues at 10KHz and 20KHz. Being such, it is probably something they all share in common (either the room, mic or something else). You may have to try isolation tests one at a time to try and rule things out.


You could try moving one of your mains into the center of the room and measure the center of the speaker at 1 meter to see if these 2 problem points go away. If it does, it would rule out the mic and upstream gear and point to room issues.


What are the dimensions of your room?


I looked at the On-Axis frequency response of your mains [±2 dB from 44 Hz - 22 kHz]. Your plots show them extending another octave lower in-room than their specs. I would like to see their specs with a wider (+/-2 dB) tolerance on the low end.


Sincerely,

Tim


----------



## studlygoorite

I posted this in the 2.35.1 thread with nothing yet, any ideas?



So I just installed my 1st Scope screen and have a question. The screen is 142" 2.35.1 AR Black Diamond 1.4 gain. I also have the Panamorph UH380 Lens and when I put a blu ray on from the PS3 and slide the lens in place then I stretch the picture vertically with my Anthem Statement D2v all is good. When I play a game on my Xbox 360 I can also go in and stretch the picture, but lose some at the top so everything is not so short and fat. Now on to the satellite dishes, I have recorded some movies that had the black bars on top and bottom from Direct TV but when I go to stretch the picture to fill it out the picture just gets smaller, making the black bars larger. I am adjusting the same way I do for the PS3 and Xbox but it has an opposite affect. Anyone know what he heck? Maybe a setting in the Direct Receiver? It also does it with my Canadian Dish. Thanks, John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17946084
> 
> 
> There is a known bug where sometimes the Mode Preset you have established does not get correctly applied when you switch to 2.0 content input. In the V2.08 (and "test" V2.08a) firmware it seems to be most likely to happen when playing the 44.1KHz LPCM stereo content from normal CD discs. If you press Select repeatedly, you will see that only LF/RF and Sub are active for output even though the audio mode you are using should be firing the other speakers as well.
> 
> 
> Anthem has acknowledge the problem and I expect the fix will be in the next firmware.
> 
> 
> The workaround is to manually change the audio mode to anything else and back again to whatever you originally intended to use (Mode button plus Up/Down arrows). If that fixes the problem then what you have is this known bug.
> 
> --Bob



thanks Bob,

It's good to have you back









John


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/17946907
> 
> 
> Any perceived differences in the PS DAC will be more then offset by the use of ARC and the D2s DACs. I have my squeezebox connected directly to the D2 and use ARC. I do have a 2 channel tube system that I use with an external DAC and Squeezebox but I wouldn't even think of using an external DAC with the D2.



Those are my feelings as well. Prior to obtaining my D2V I had an elaborate setup using a Squeezebox, external DAC and a high-end preamp in passthrough mode. It was definitely nicer than the older 5.1 receiver I had when doing CD playback. However since I got the D2V I found that the differences between the two were significantly in favor of the Anthem because I could apply room correction to the music. Even without room correction there were no real differences in playback between the external DAC and the Anthem. So now my setup is much simpler. And I recovered half the price of my D2V by selling the left over components.


Right now my feeling is that room issues are by far and away my biggest opportunity for audible improvement.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17948546
> 
> 
> I posted this in the 2.35.1 thread with nothing yet, any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> So I just installed my 1st Scope screen and have a question. The screen is 142" 2.35.1 AR Black Diamond 1.4 gain. I also have the Panamorph UH380 Lens and when I put a blu ray on from the PS3 and slide the lens in place then I stretch the picture vertically with my Anthem Statement D2v all is good. When I play a game on my Xbox 360 I can also go in and stretch the picture, but lose some at the top so everything is not so short and fat. Now on to the satellite dishes, I have recorded some movies that had the black bars on top and bottom from Direct TV but when I go to stretch the picture to fill it out the picture just gets smaller, making the black bars larger. I am adjusting the same way I do for the PS3 and Xbox but it has an opposite affect. Anyone know what he heck? Maybe a setting in the Direct Receiver? It also does it with my Canadian Dish. Thanks, John



The DirecTV receiver should be set to believe it is connected to a 16:9 TV, and it should be set so that any 4:3 content (i.e., SDTV channels) is "stretched" to fill the frame left to right. In reality, a "stretched" setting like that means the DirecTV is doing NOTHING to the image. The 720x480 broadcast input pixels are being passed through to the output without modification, and are simply interpreted as being wider than they are tall. Leave it to the Anthem to create any letter/pillar box bars.


In the Anthem you want to use Anamorphic scaling along with a Custom Crop value as described in the "Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling" post links found in the first post of this thread.


-------------------------------------


Is that what you are doing? If so, please describe in more detail precisely what is going wrong.


Are you trying to do this with HDTV or SDTV movies? If SDTV, is the DirecTV sending 480i or is it sending something scaled up from 480i to the Anthem? If you turn off the custom crop and change the scaling to Letter Box from Anamorphic, does the image have black around all 4 sides or just at top and bottom?


Remember that the Custom Crop and Scaling settings (Video Source Adjust menu) are stashed separately for each Source. So if you have more than one Source definition set up for your DirecTV input you will need to make the Video Source Adjust menu settings separately while viewing each such Source.

--Bob


----------



## WildZero




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TboneofLA* /forum/post/17946867
> 
> 
> A few questions that come to mind are:
> 
> 1. Is this a characteristic of my room?
> 
> 2. Is this due to the speakers? All are Paradigm Studio Reference V2's (100's, CC, 40's and 60's) which other test data shows relatively flat response curves.
> 
> 3. Is it due to test methods? Microphone height, placement in room etc.
> 
> 4. Is it the test equipment?
> 
> 5. Is it affecting the results below 5k?



I have a very similar dip on all my speakers (except for the sub







). In this thread a few people reported

this dip. I would love to know if it really is the mic or not. What kind of speakers are you using?


Chris


----------



## dlynch34

HDMI has become the new PC if you will. You constantly have to upgrade your hardware to keep with the new "features". The thing to do If I were in charge of a company that produces these processors would be to have a capable upgrade card to buy when a new hdmi standard is released. It seems to me the strong selling point of these high end processors was their ability to be easily upgraded. That hasnt happend in the last round or so of products since hdmi came into the picture. It seems to me anthem and other companies could make a swappable video card that its owners could easily swap out to future proof the processor of these price points. That is just my 2 cents anyhoo.


----------



## ccomhs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17705318
> 
> 
> Right on Bob:
> 
> 
> Reduced gain to 3.25, raised cutoffs on everything but main and surround, reduced correction to 15k. A little speaker movement and VOILA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Despite horrible room acustics, for the most part I was able to get +/- .5 through to abot 15K . Almost dead on save for a couple of wobbles here and there (in sub and tweeter range), but trully a flat response at just over 74dB.
> 
> 
> Sound tests are noticebly better.
> 
> 
> Great forum, great product.
> 
> 
> I decided to buy external DACs. I am very skeptical though. I belive that with a reclocker in line, the D2v DACs should be on par with top of the line. By mid late january, I will comment on the D2v vs the dedicated outboard DACs I ordered.



Ok, I did some extensive listening tests with a high end outboard DAC an compared them with the onboard DACs on the D2v. A few setup considerations: the DAC board is not fully broken in, my room acustics are horrible without ARC and I have an inline digital re-clocker before the DAC/AMP reducing jitter.

The outboard DAC is clearly state of the art. The sound is simply incredible at least when sitting right in front of the speakers in an as close to ideal as possible environment (hooked directly to my amp). However, when hooking up the DAC via the D2v (Balanced quality cables), things get a little confusing. First off, in direct modes (no room correction), hands down and without any trouble, it is clear that the sound coming from the D2v´s DAC´s with ARC engaged is superior. Engaging the analog DSP (I think that is what is called), to engage ARC with the analog inputs, things get interesting.

I did end up convincing myself that the outboard DAC solution produced the better results, but this conclusion took over 6 hours of critical listening. Every here and there, in specific pieces of music things just seemed to be more punctuated, tidier I really could not put it in words. These difference where truly subtle on side by side immediate switchover tests.

Conclusion: I will stick with the D2v´s DAC output using a re-clocker to clean the incoming signal. There is just not enough differentiation between the two to justify leaving the outboard DAC´s in. Again, in a larger room, with much better acustics, I would probably keep the DAC´s in direct mode. This is obviously hypothetical since I can only estimate the results based on a week's worth of toying with the available equipment and test options.

On another note, I am further convinced that the D2v´s DACs are very sensitive to jitter (commented on other posts). However, on a good input digital signal, the D2v WITH ARC engaged, produced results on par with state of the art DAC boards as per described herein above.

Anyone holding back on a D2v based on lack of info on its music playback performance go for it. If you can provide a jitter reduced input signal, the D2v will not disappoint you in any way. Add to this home theater capabilities and listening rooms full of decore (horrible acoustics), and the balence tips even more.

I have intentionally avoided brands of specific products. When I purchased the D2v I was very disturbed thinking that I would sacrifice music play back sound quality. There is very little on the D2v performance on music play back. These are my results and reflect my opinion. I did not use sophisticated since or ran tests other than those any hobbyist would run to try out a new piece of equipment.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17949585
> 
> 
> The DirecTV receiver should be set to believe it is connected to a 16:9 TV, and it should be set so that any 4:3 content (i.e., SDTV channels) is "stretched" to fill the frame left to right. In reality, a "stretched" setting like that means the DirecTV is doing NOTHING to the image. The 720x480 broadcast input pixels are being passed through to the output without modification, and are simply interpreted as being wider than they are tall. Leave it to the Anthem to create any letter/pillar box bars.
> 
> 
> In the Anthem you want to use Anamorphic scaling along with a Custom Crop value as described in the "Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling" post links found in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Is that what you are doing? If so, please describe in more detail precisely what is going wrong.
> 
> 
> Are you trying to do this with HDTV or SDTV movies? If SDTV, is the DirecTV sending 480i or is it sending something scaled up from 480i to the Anthem? If you turn off the custom crop and change the scaling to Letter Box from Anamorphic, does the image have black around all 4 sides or just at top and bottom?
> 
> 
> Remember that the Custom Crop and Scaling settings (Video Source Adjust menu) are stashed separately for each Source. So if you have more than one Source definition set up for your DirecTV input you will need to make the Video Source Adjust menu settings separately while viewing each such Source.
> 
> --Bob




Well that could be it, my Direct TV receiver is set so my SD 480i material is not stretched. I'll change it when I get home. Thanks


What I am trying to do is strectch a movie that is on Direct TV that is in the 2.35 AR to fill my 2.35 AR screen, the Anthem will not let me do it and that could be because of your first suggestion. When I change the Vertical size from 1080 to say 810 as I do for Blu Ray movies on the PS3 the picture expands to fill my screen, when I try it on the Direct TV receiver the picture gets smaller.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/17949983
> 
> 
> HDMI has become the new PC if you will. You constantly have to upgrade your hardware to keep with the new "features". The thing to do If I were in charge of a company that produces these processors would be to have a capable upgrade card to buy when a new hdmi standard is released. It seems to me the strong selling point of these high end processors was their ability to be easily upgraded. That hasnt happend in the last round or so of products since hdmi came into the picture. It seems to me anthem and other companies could make a swappable video card that its owners could easily swap out to future proof the processor of these price points. That is just my 2 cents anyhoo.



It's not as simple as all that.


The recent changes to HDMI have increased the bandwidth the device needs to handle if it is going to provide more than just lip-service to the new raft of "optional" features that come with each HDMI revision.


That means the audio and video processing capabilities of the device also need to be upgraded -- not just the HDMI hardware receiver/transmitter chips.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/17950492
> 
> 
> Ok, I did some extensive listening tests with a high end outboard DAC an compared them with the onboard DACs on the D2v. A few setup considerations: the DAC board is not fully broken in, my room acustics are horrible without ARC and I have an inline digital re-clocker before the DAC/AMP reducing jitter.
> 
> The outboard DAC is clearly state of the art. The sound is simply incredible at least when sitting right in front of the speakers in an as close to ideal as possible environment (hooked directly to my amp). However, when hooking up the DAC via the D2v (Balanced quality cables), things get a little confusing. First off, in direct modes (no room correction), hands down and without any trouble, it is clear that the sound coming from the D2v´s DAC´s with ARC engaged is superior. Engaging the analog DSP (I think that is what is called), to engage ARC with the analog inputs, things get interesting.
> 
> I did end up convincing myself that the outboard DAC solution produced the better results, but this conclusion took over 6 hours of critical listening. Every here and there, in specific pieces of music things just seemed to be more punctuated, tidier I really could not put it in words. These difference where truly subtle on side by side immediate switchover tests.
> 
> Conclusion: I will stick with the D2v´s DAC output using a re-clocker to clean the incoming signal. There is just not enough differentiation between the two to justify leaving the outboard DAC´s in. Again, in a larger room, with much better acustics, I would probably keep the DAC´s in direct mode. This is obviously hypothetical since I can only estimate the results based on a week’s worth of toying with the available equipment and test options.
> 
> On another note, I am further convinced that the D2v´s DACs are very sensitive to jitter (commented on other posts). However, on a good input digital signal, the D2v WITH ARC engaged, produced results on par with state of the art DAC boards as per described herein above.
> 
> Anyone holding back on a D2v based on lack of info on its music playback performance go for it. If you can provide a jitter reduced input signal, the D2v will not disappoint you in any way. Add to this home theater capabilities and listening rooms full of decore (horrible acoustics), and the balence tips even more.
> 
> I have intentionally avoided brands of specific products. When I purchased the D2v I was very disturbed thinking that I would sacrifice music play back sound quality. There is very little on the D2v performance on music play back. These are my results and reflect my opinion. I did not use sophisticated since or ran tests other than those any hobbyist would run to try out a new piece of equipment.



If you haven't already done so, check out Setup > ADC/Audio Output > 2-CH ANLG-DSP. This sets the sampling rate when two channel analog audio input is digitized so that you can then digitally process it in the D2v, e.g., with ARC.


By default, that is set to 44.1KHz as it also controls the digital output rate when hooked up to a digital recorder, and 44.1KHz provides maximum compatibility with different digital recorders.


But if you are NOT using a digital recorder, then you can raise that sampling rate up to 96KHz and improve the digitizing performance for your highest quality stereo analog inputs -- e.g., as from your external DAC.


This may let a little move quality from the external DAC make it into the D2v input and thus you'll get better results from it. However your re-clocked digital input may still end up being the better choice.


NOTE: Whatever rate you use for sampling of the analog stereo input, the result will be upsampled to 192KHz prior to any digital processing inside the D2v. But still, a higher sampling rate to begin with should yield a subtle improvement.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/17951024
> 
> 
> Well that could be it, my Direct TV receiver is set so my SD 480i material is not stretched. I'll change it when I get home. Thanks
> 
> 
> What I am trying to do is strectch a movie that is on Direct TV that is in the 2.35 AR to fill my 2.35 AR screen, the Anthem will not let me do it and that could be because of your first suggestion. When I change the Vertical size from 1080 to say 810 as I do for Blu Ray movies on the PS3 the picture expands to fill my screen, when I try it on the Direct TV receiver the picture gets smaller.



When setting up this stuff, temporarily set the scaling in the D2v to Letter Box. That will make it easier for you to see precisely what is happing as you adjust the Custom Crop settings. When the combo of source device output and Custom Crop looks correct, then you can switch back to Anamorphic to make the vertical stretch actually happen.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

I'm curious about setting up a second zone and I'm not totally clear I know how to go about doing it.


I assume I run a couple of "long" RCA interconnects from the "analog audio out - zone 2 or 3" to the left and right inputs on a power amp?


From there I think I know how to select the path for the zone, but I'm not clear what "copy" it from main means.


Thanks


----------



## TboneofLA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/17949782
> 
> 
> I have a very similar dip on all my speakers (except for the sub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). In this thread a few people reported
> 
> this dip. I would love to know if it really is the mic or not. What kind of speakers are you using?
> 
> 
> Chris



Chris, I have Paradigm Reference Studio 100 v2's for the fronts, the Studio CC v2 for the center, Studio 40 v2's for the surrounds and Studio 60 v2's for the rears. All the speakers utilize the same tweeter and according to Paradigm's specs the response is flat (+/- 2dB) from 40hz to 22kHz for the 100's.

Robert Deutsch's review from Stereophile June 2000 shows a relatively flat response although there is a similar but significantly smaller peak at 20kHz in their measurements. This is measured at 50" from the speaker though where I would expect the peaks and valley's to measure greater.


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/17858882
> 
> 
> Even if some magic FW somewhere does get it to work - it is another
> 
> CASE of NOT NEEDING IT.
> 
> 
> AppleTV Content is NEVER EVER more than 720p and Audio is
> 
> NEVER EVER MORE than DD 5.1.
> 
> 
> Even if AppleTV HDMI works at 1080p - who do you want to do
> 
> the scaling from 720p to 1080p - Apple or Anthem. I keep my
> 
> vote with Anthem - so I always use AppleTV set to output 720p
> 
> with DD over Optical.



Wow, what is your problem? Am I unreasonable to expect my $5K processor to work as it's supposed to? I prefer HDMI for its simplicity, not to give me increased bandwidth. I know AppleTV outputs at 720p. I have been using both of my AppleTVs via HDMI into my Pioneer Kuros for two years now without a hitch. But with the Anthem, I get a red screen. Christ, even through component the picture flickers so much it's unwatchable through the Anthem. And you know what's funny? The solution Anthem's tech support gave me was to switch the AppleTV's output resolution from 720p to 1080i! That is asinine!


But it doesn't end there. I also have a Roku player. I like watching video on demand. That also outputs 720p via HDMI. Again, I like to use a single cable. It's neater. It's the standard. It's supposed to work. But the Anthem doesn't play nice with that, either. Half the time, I get either a blank screen or a green one when I try to watch. Very frustrating.


I swear, when the Anthem works, it is a beautiful thing, indeed. But I have never owned such a finicky, unreliable piece of equipment in my 15 years in this hobby!


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17951349
> 
> 
> When setting up this stuff, temporarily set the scaling in the D2v to Letter Box. That will make it easier for you to see precisely what is happing as you adjust the Custom Crop settings. When the combo of source device output and Custom Crop looks correct, then you can switch back to Anamorphic to make the vertical stretch actually happen.
> 
> --Bob



You have done it again Bob, thanks all is well.


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/17930591
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> For more "advanced 3D", like 1080p60 x 2, sure, you'd need HDMI 1.4 for a 1080p120 (or greater) signal. But that's not necessary, it's just a bonus.



As a former AVM-50 owner who left the fold because of lack of compatibility with a JVC projector, significant stability issues, AND it was stated in this thread was INCAPABLE of EVER getting the ARC upgrade short of a D2 upgrade, I don't thinks it too much to want the latest interface spec (capable of upstream comm in addition to 1080p full rate to each of two shuttered glasses for best performance).


I don't know when a D3 or D2-squared will come out, but I would hope it includes:
HDMI 1.4
Full DSX complement of capabilities (9 or 11) speaker
Dolby IIz
etc.


So whether 3D is a driver, it doesn't matter. Look how long after mass market availability it took to get bitstreaming. I would hope it will not be another 2 year delay.


----------



## tngiloy

Welcome back Bob!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17952842
> 
> 
> Wow, what is your problem? Am I unreasonable to expect my $5K processor to work as it's supposed to? I prefer HDMI for its simplicity, not to give me increased bandwidth. I know AppleTV outputs at 720p. I have been using both of my AppleTVs via HDMI into my Pioneer Kuros for two years now without a hitch. But with the Anthem, I get a red screen. Christ, even through component the picture flickers so much it's unwatchable through the Anthem. And you know what's funny? The solution Anthem's tech support gave me was to switch the AppleTV's output resolution from 720p to 1080i! That is asinine!
> 
> 
> But it doesn't end there. I also have a Roku player. I like watching video on demand. That also outputs 720p via HDMI. Again, I like to use a single cable. It's neater. It's the standard. It's supposed to work. But the Anthem doesn't play nice with that, either. Half the time, I get either a blank screen or a green one when I try to watch. Very frustrating.
> 
> 
> I swear, when the Anthem works, it is a beautiful thing, indeed. But I have never owned such a finicky, unreliable piece of equipment in my 15 years in this hobby!



Michael, which Anthem processor do you have and what version of firmware do you have running in it?


Apple uses an unusual, but legal method for their HDMI output. Originally, Anthem discovered that providing support for what Apple was doing broke HDMI from a variety of cable/satellite boxes, so they went in favor of not supporting the Apple stuff.


They have since discovered a way to support both. In the D2v and AVM 50v the V2.08 firmware should support AppleTV.


In the original D2 and AVM 50, porting that HDMI change to the older hardware has apparently proven difficult. There is a "test" firmware version, V1.47f, which includes this change, but it is not currently available for all production versions of the D2 and the AVM 50. If you look through the top slots of your D2 or AVM 50 and discover the video board (the upper board just under those vents) is colored red, *OR* if you discover that your power supply does NOT have the big, toroidal (donut-shaped) transformer, then, again if EITHER of those is true, you know your hardware is OK for the V1.47f firmware.


If your video board is colored green or gray AND you have the toroidal transformer in your power supply then your hardware still MIGHT be OK for V1.47f, but there is no easy way for you to know for sure, and so my recommendation is that you wait until Anthem finishes porting that HDMI change.


I don't know what might be going on with your Roku player, but my recollection is we have other Roku users on this thread who are not having such a problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudolpht* /forum/post/17952948
> 
> 
> I don't know when a D3 or D2-squared will come out, but I would hope it includes:
> HDMI 1.4
> Full DSX complement of capabilities (9 or 11) speaker
> Dolby IIz
> etc.
> 
> 
> So whether 3D is a driver, it doesn't matter. Look how long after mass market availability it took to get bitstreaming. I would hope it will not be another 2 year delay.



Adding "etc." may cost slightly more....









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/17954055
> 
> 
> Welcome back Bob!!



Thanks, but please don't assume I'll be instantly available.


There are some serious family issues I'm dealing with -- probably through February -- and of course they take priority on my time.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17954159
> 
> 
> Thanks, but please don't assume I'll be instantly available.
> 
> 
> There are some serious family issues I'm dealing with -- probably through February -- and of course they take priority on my time.
> 
> --Bob



My thoughts and prayers go with you.


We greatly appreciate your expertise, whenever you are able to afford us the time.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17952298
> 
> 
> I'm curious about setting up a second zone and I'm not totally clear I know how to go about doing it.
> 
> 
> I assume I run a couple of "long" RCA interconnects from the "analog audio out - zone 2 or 3" to the left and right inputs on a power amp?
> 
> 
> From there I think I know how to select the path for the zone, but I'm not clear what "copy" it from main means.
> 
> 
> Thanks



The Zone 2 and Zone 3 audio is not processed. Only the Main path is processed. So that means if you want processed audio output to Zone 2 you need to "copy" the audio currently being processed on the Main path.


The most common reason to do this is because you want to use digital audio from a source and have it processed to (1) down-mix it to stereo and (2) convert it to analog audio for output. The only way to do that is to select that Source on the Main path and then set Zone 2 to have its audio "copied" from the Main path.


So why would you not want to use copying? Well if you don't "copy" then you can separately select the Main path Source device and the Zone 2 path Source device -- i.e., you can be playing different content into the two of them.


But since you are not copying, that means you need to have stereo analog audio input hooked up from that Source for use on the Zone 2 output. I.e., Zone 2 operates simply as a stereo analog audio switch between your stereo analog audio sources.


Now with some Sources you can hook up, say, both Optical Digital audio input and stereo analog audio input (a pair of RCA cables), and both will be live when you play content. In that case you can use Zone 2 without copying to select that Source's analog feed while the Main path is playing something else. Or alternatively you can copy from Main and get the processed digital input available on the Zone 2 analog stereo output.


You can set Copy from Main as a permanent attribute of Zone 2 if you know you are always going to use it that way, or you can turn copying on and off at whim with the remote. See Section 4.3 of the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17944978
> 
> 
> I was playing a stereo cd and tried Anthem Logic Music but didn't hear anything from the surrounds. I can't remember if this was an issue earlier or if it was and still isn't fixed. Thanks,
> 
> John



ALM plays fine in the surrounds on my 50v using v2.08 firmware. Never had a problem with it in v2.07 either. The only issue I had was a misunderstaning on how it works. I kept observing deeper bass for weeks when switching to ALM versus ALC or any other modes. Anthem later on told me that the ALM mode boosts bass sounds below 100Hz by 4dB. Other modes, as i said do not have this boost.


David


----------



## WildZero




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TboneofLA* /forum/post/17952450
> 
> 
> Chris, I have Paradigm Reference Studio 100 v2's for the fronts, the Studio CC v2 for the center, Studio 40 v2's for the surrounds and Studio 60 v2's for the rears. All the speakers utilize the same tweeter and according to Paradigm's specs the response is flat (+/- 2dB) from 40hz to 22kHz for the 100's.



I use JM Lab/Focal Utopia speakers, all have the same tweeter. I think i have a pair of old speakers lying around somewhere.

Maybe it is worth a try to hook those up and see if there is a dip as well.


----------



## Carlton Bale

I've had my D2V installed for about a month and I'm still working through some problems. It came with the 2.08 firmware installed. Unfortunately, I'm having numerous difficulties with HDMI handshake working. When I switch to my TiVo HD input, it works about 20% of the time and I get a black screen otherwise. To fix it, I switch back and forth between inputs until it finally works, or I unplug the HDMI cable and plug it back in and it immediately works. I've tried different cables and they make no difference. I never had problems with the TiVoHD and other devices. This happens for other components as well. Any suggestions?


Thanks

-Carlton


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17954159
> 
> 
> Thanks, but please don't assume I'll be instantly available.
> 
> 
> There are some serious family issues I'm dealing with -- probably through February -- and of course they take priority on my time.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


That goes without saying Bob. Best of luck..



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/17956069
> 
> 
> I've had my D2V installed for about a month and I'm still working through some problems. It came with the 2.08 firmware installed. Unfortunately, I'm having numerous difficulties with HDMI handshake working. When I switch to my TiVo HD input, it works about 20% of the time and I get a black screen otherwise. To fix it, I switch back and forth between inputs until it finally works, or I unplug the HDMI cable and plug it back in and it immediately works. I've tried different cables and they make no difference. I never had problems with the TiVoHD and other devices. This happens for other components as well. Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> -Carlton



There are some additional HDMI improvements in the "test" V2.08a firmware. If you want to try that, get in touch with Anthem tech support and they'll give you the access info.


Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol: The source drives the handshake all the way through to the display. So if you are having problems with several sources, that suggests the issue is actually between the Anthem and your display.


The D2v will send 36 bit "Deep Color" video to a display that accepts that, which is higher bandwidth and puts more demands on the cables. Your cables should be labeled for HDMI V1.3 "high speed" or "1080p" or "category 2", all of which mean the same thing: That the cable has supposedly been designed to meet the current, strictest signal quality standards for HDMI.


Keep in mind that HDMI plugs are just friction fit, and that it only takes a small shift of the plug in the socket to degrade the signal. The weight of the cable can make that happen. You may need to support the cable weight near each socket.


With all that in mind, try changing everything first to 480p (not 480i) in and out. This is the "simplest" resolution for HDMI. If that seems to work cleanly, then try 1080i in and out. If 1080i also works cleanly but 1080p does not then that suggests a cable problem, even though you've already tried a new set of cables.

--Bob


----------



## jlanier




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Carlton Bale* /forum/post/17956069
> 
> 
> I've had my D2V installed for about a month and I'm still working through some problems. It came with the 2.08 firmware installed. Unfortunately, I'm having numerous difficulties with HDMI handshake working. When I switch to my TiVo HD input, it works about 20% of the time and I get a black screen otherwise. To fix it, I switch back and forth between inputs until it finally works, or I unplug the HDMI cable and plug it back in and it immediately works. I've tried different cables and they make no difference. I never had problems with the TiVoHD and other devices. This happens for other components as well. Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> -Carlton



FWIW, I have a TiVo Series 3 HD connected to my D2v via HDMI, and I've had zero problems with it. I'm on the public 2.08 release. I did have occasional TiVo handshake problems with my previous processor, an AVM50, but the D2v seems to be more tolerant of HDMI devices than the older models.


Don't know if the TiVo HD has different handshaking than the TiVo Series 3 HD (I'm assuming you have the newer, smaller TiVo HD).


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob,

I appreciate your time to look at my new charts and give me your comments.

Thanks again and good to have you back.

 

Arc 3.doc 135k . file

 

Arc 2.doc 123k . file

 

Arc 1.doc 123.5k . file


----------



## greyflag




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17946221
> 
> 
> For everyone experiencing problems like this using an original AVM 50 with ARC, get in touch with Anthem tech support and see if you can get a hardware repair -- e.g., replacing the ARC DSP board.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that if you bought an ARC Upgrade for your original AVM 50 that the upgrade itself comes with its own, new warranty.
> 
> 
> I don't know that Anthem has a good answer as to why this is happening in some AVM 50/ARC setups, but it does not appear to be happening to everyone, which means it is likely a problem with the integration between the specific ARC DSP board and the main board of the AVM 50.
> 
> --Bob



Re: AVM 50 ARC "hiss" when changing sources:


Anthem has offered to replace my DSP and converter board. (DAC/ADC). I'll post results when it takes place.


Best of luck Bob!


----------



## bgrounds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/17949289
> 
> 
> Those are my feelings as well. Prior to obtaining my D2V I had an elaborate setup using a Squeezebox, external DAC and a high-end preamp in passthrough mode. It was definitely nicer than the older 5.1 receiver I had when doing CD playback. However since I got the D2V I found that the differences between the two were significantly in favor of the Anthem because I could apply room correction to the music. Even without room correction there were no real differences in playback between the external DAC and the Anthem. So now my setup is much simpler. And I recovered half the price of my D2V by selling the left over components.
> 
> 
> Right now my feeling is that room issues are by far and away my biggest opportunity for audible improvement.



Thanks guys - that's what I wanted to hear; looks like I'm going to hold on to my $3 grand!


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17954095
> 
> 
> Michael, which Anthem processor do you have and what version of firmware do you have running in it?
> 
> 
> Apple uses an unusual, but legal method for their HDMI output. Originally, Anthem discovered that providing support for what Apple was doing broke HDMI from a variety of cable/satellite boxes, so they went in favor of not supporting the Apple stuff.
> 
> 
> They have since discovered a way to support both. In the D2v and AVM 50v the V2.08 firmware should support AppleTV.
> 
> 
> In the original D2 and AVM 50, porting that HDMI change to the older hardware has apparently proven difficult. There is a "test" firmware version, V1.47f, which includes this change, but it is not currently available for all production versions of the D2 and the AVM 50. If you look through the top slots of your D2 or AVM 50 and discover the video board (the upper board just under those vents) is colored red, *OR* if you discover that your power supply does NOT have the big, toroidal (donut-shaped) transformer, then, again if EITHER of those is true, you know your hardware is OK for the V1.47f firmware.
> 
> 
> If your video board is colored green or gray AND you have the toroidal transformer in your power supply then your hardware still MIGHT be OK for V1.47f, but there is no easy way for you to know for sure, and so my recommendation is that you wait until Anthem finishes porting that HDMI change.
> 
> 
> I don't know what might be going on with your Roku player, but my recollection is we have other Roku users on this thread who are not having such a problem.
> 
> --Bob



Hey, Bob!


I have an AVM50v running v2.08 firmware.


Never have been able to get the Anthem to accept HDMI from the AppleTV. About to try again tonight using new cables (Audioquest). Normally, though, I get either no picture or a solid red one.


Annoyingly, since upgrading to v2.08, the picture from AppleTV now flickers intermittently via component unless I change its output resolution from 720p (preferred) to 1080i (not as good).


I have been playing around with the video settings on the Anthem, and the Roku player works most of the time now, although for a while I got a solid green screen and the LED display read "VGA." Now I either get a picture (80% of the time) or I don't get anything (20%). Turning everything off and then back on usually fixes things.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17954756
> 
> 
> ALM plays fine in the surrounds on my 50v using v2.08 firmware. Never had a problem with it in v2.07 either. The only issue I had was a misunderstaning on how it works. I kept observing deeper bass for weeks when switching to ALM versus ALC or any other modes. Anthem later on told me that the ALM mode boosts bass sounds below 100Hz by 4dB. Other modes, as i said do not have this boost.
> 
> 
> David



I don't really use it but when it didn't give me any surround effects, I thought something was wrong. As Bob mentioned, it should be fixed in the next firmware update.

thanks,

John


----------



## TboneofLA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/17947388
> 
> 
> Try remeasuring but lower your main EQ by 10dB so your targets are around 75dB.
> 
> 
> It is interesting that all of your speakers are showing the same issues at 10KHz and 20KHz. Being such, it is probably something they all share in common (either the room, mic or something else). You may have to try isolation tests one at a time to try and rule things out.
> 
> 
> You could try moving one of your mains into the center of the room and measure the center of the speaker at 1 meter to see if these 2 problem points go away. If it does, it would rule out the mic and upstream gear and point to room issues.
> 
> 
> What are the dimensions of your room?
> 
> 
> I looked at the On-Axis frequency response of your mains [±2 dB from 44 Hz - 22 kHz]. Your plots show them extending another octave lower in-room than their specs. I would like to see their specs with a wider (+/-2 dB) tolerance on the low end.
> 
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Tim



Tim, Thank you for your suggestions.


I remeasured at a lower target level but the results haven't changed significantly.


I also measured the nearfield response (with the ARC mic and software) and the results are very similar so I would now rule out room interaction.


I guess I'm left to believe it is the speakers or the ARC mic and noise pattern.


Without any where else to go from here I will probably call technical support for further information.


----------



## bluemark81

Is there a way to set a delay to the triggers. I have a power amp connected to one of my triggers which I would like to set to power on a few seconds after my other gear. Is this possible?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17961452
> 
> 
> Is there a way to set a delay to the triggers. I have a power amp connected to one of my triggers which I would like to set to power on a few seconds after my other gear. Is this possible?



It is not.


There is a fixed delay between each of the 3 trigger outputs from the Anthem, which is not adjustable.


There are other solutions of course. You can get remotely controllable triggers for example -- plug them into wall power and they produce 12 volts output when the remote tells them to do so.


Meanwhile tell your programmable remote to turn on that trigger after a suitable delay. You can do this, for example, with the Harmony remotes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TboneofLA* /forum/post/17961058
> 
> 
> Tim, Thank you for your suggestions.
> 
> 
> I remeasured at a lower target level but the results haven't changed significantly.
> 
> 
> I also measured the nearfield response (with the ARC mic and software) and the results are very similar so I would now rule out room interaction.
> 
> 
> I guess I'm left to believe it is the speakers or the ARC mic and noise pattern.
> 
> 
> Without any where else to go from here I will probably call technical support for further information.



There are not a lot of things that can produce what you are seeing here.


The most likely is a faulty mic.


What you have is so distinct, I suspect Anthem will agree to swap out your mic even if just to eliminate the mic as the possible culprit. IMPORTANT NOTE: You will need to replace your ARC mic calibration data file! Anthem tech support can walk you through that.


------------------------------


Any other explanation has to explain why you are seeing essentially the identical result from different speakers in different parts of the room.


So you need to think of what's common here. One thing is the pointing of the ARC mic. If you aren't following the ARC instructions for mic positioning/pointing you will get strange treble results.


Another possibility is that you have some sort of custom grill covering over all these speakers and the material or mounting hardware is obscuring the tweeters.


Another possibility is that you had a previous ARC mic and you are mistakenly using the wrong mic calibration data file.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17960668
> 
> 
> Hey, Bob!
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50v running v2.08 firmware.
> 
> 
> Never have been able to get the Anthem to accept HDMI from the AppleTV. About to try again tonight using new cables (Audioquest). Normally, though, I get either no picture or a solid red one.
> 
> 
> Annoyingly, since upgrading to v2.08, the picture from AppleTV now flickers intermittently via component unless I change its output resolution from 720p (preferred) to 1080i (not as good).
> 
> 
> I have been playing around with the video settings on the Anthem, and the Roku player works most of the time now, although for a while I got a solid green screen and the LED display read "VGA." Now I either get a picture (80% of the time) or I don't get anything (20%). Turning everything off and then back on usually fixes things.



Talk to Anthem tech support about trying the "test" V2.08a firmware as a next step.


Try setting the output to your display to something lower than 1080p -- e.g., 1080i. If that works without problem then that suggests a cabling problem to your display.


Also, try the alternate setting of Setup > Video Output > HDMI Sync.


For HDMI data format, it is best to use an explicit setting (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) rather than "Auto".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greyflag* /forum/post/17958186
> 
> 
> Re: AVM 50 ARC "hiss" when changing sources:
> 
> 
> Anthem has offered to replace my DSP and converter board. (DAC/ADC). I'll post results when it takes place.
> 
> 
> Best of luck Bob!



I believe there is an incompatibility between some AVM 50 ARC boards and the main AVM 50 board. That's mostly guesswork based on the reports we've had here.


Let us know how the swap out works for you!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17958033
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> I appreciate your time to look at my new charts and give me your comments.
> 
> Thanks again and good to have you back.



Something is wrong with your Center speaker. Put your ear up close to the mid-range driver and listen to check that it is firing. It looks like you may have lost the mid-range, which means the woofer and tweeter are being asked to carry that load.


That 15dB swing between 45Hz and 60Hz in the Measured curve for your sub is also pretty dramatic. Some positioning adjustments may help reduce that. At these frequencies even inches matter.


You've got some high frequency roll-off in the surrounds and center which look like they could be speaker-pointing related.


What Room Gain did ARC find before you changed it to 3.0dB?

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17962311
> 
> 
> Something is wrong with your Center speaker. Put your ear up close to the mid-range driver and listen to check that it is firing. It looks like you may have lost the mid-range, which means the woofer and tweeter are being asked to carry that load.
> 
> 
> That 15dB swing between 45Hz and 60Hz in the Measured curve for your sub is also pretty dramatic. Some positioning adjustments may help reduce that. At these frequencies even inches matter.
> 
> 
> You've got some high frequency roll-off in the surrounds and center which look like they could be speaker-pointing related.
> 
> 
> What Room Gain did ARC find before you changed it to 3.0dB?
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,

My center is at the carpeted floor level. I have the center tilted up towards the listenning position. I did check the drivers on the center and they all have sound. So I think that is due to the positioning also at the high freq. roll off. My sourounds are at the ceiling height which also have rooll off at hight freq. The room gain ARC found was 3.945749.

Am I missing too much from the center and sub or the ARC has taken care of them?

Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17965679
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> My center is at the carpeted floor level. I have the center tilted up towards the listenning position. I did check the drivers on the center and they all have sound. So I think that is due to the positioning also at the high freq. roll off. My sourounds are at the ceiling height which also have rooll off at hight freq. The room gain ARC found was 3.945749.
> 
> Am I missing too much from the center and sub or the ARC has taken care of them?
> 
> Thanks again.



It looks like ARC has pretty much taken care of them. Center is a bit low in the mid-range but it is uniform after ARC correction, so I doubt you'll notice it in dialog.


I noticed that you didn't push Max EQ Frequency very high. I suspect you can't because of the amount of correction ARC needs to do for these other items -- i.e., raising Max EQ Frequency diverts resources so you get a poorer solution at lower frequencies.


But if you can improved some of these issues in Measured values, ARC will have less work to do and you'll be able to push it up to higher frequencies.


Check the install instructions for your Center speaker. It may want an air gap underneath it for proper output. In which case you just need to get a low stand to get it off the carpet.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17965843
> 
> 
> It looks like ARC has pretty much taken care of them. Center is a bit low in the mid-range but it is uniform after ARC correction, so I doubt you'll notice it in dialog.
> 
> 
> I noticed that you didn't push Max EQ Frequency very high. I suspect you can't because of the amount of correction ARC needs to do for these other items -- i.e., raising Max EQ Frequency diverts resources so you get a poorer solution at lower frequencies.
> 
> 
> But if you can improved some of these issues in Measured values, ARC will have less work to do and you'll be able to push it up to higher frequencies.
> 
> 
> Check the install instructions for your Center speaker. It may want an air gap underneath it for proper output. In which case you just need to get a low stand to get it off the carpet.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


I appreciate it.


----------



## Carlton Bale




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17957408
> 
> 
> There are some additional HDMI improvements in the "test" V2.08a firmware. If you want to try that, get in touch with Anthem tech support and they'll give you the access info.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol: The source drives the handshake all the way through to the display. So if you are having problems with several sources, that suggests the issue is actually between the Anthem and your display.



Thanks, I'll give that a try. The link between the D2V and the projector doesn't seem to be the problem: the D2v OSD and the menus always display properly. The TiVo HD is by far the worst offender. But once it syncs, it is rock solid until I switch inputs again.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/17825681
> 
> 
> AFAIR, Nick has recommended using the 5kHz setting for ARC.
> 
> In all of the articles I've read, room correction is really recommended for taming the lower frequencies only.
> 
> Like I said, these are my experiences and thoughts alone.
> 
> No one else has posted anything like this.
> 
> My only recommendation is to listen carefully to your system, like you've done.
> 
> If it improves things, all the better.



I had my sweeps with the Arc EQ'd at 20KHZ as Bob had previously said would give me the best performance. I guess I should of tried 5KHZ then 15KHZ and finally 20 KHZ to see what sounded the best. Next time I have the installer out I guess I'll try that. Darn. It does sound very good right now though.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/17967247
> 
> 
> I had my sweeps with the Arc EQ'd at 20KHZ as Bob had previously said would give me the best performance. I guess I should of tried 5KHZ then 15KHZ and finally 20 KHZ to see what sounded the best. Next time I have the installer out I guess I'll try that. Darn. It does sound very good right now though.



I thought that once the measurements were done, you could change the HF cutoff afterward--no need to remeasure. No?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17967409
> 
> 
> I thought that once the measurements were done, you could change the HF cutoff afterward--no need to remeasure. No?



Roger is correct. If you feel like experimenting you can adjust Max EQ Frequency without having to re-Measure.


I suggest you make a copy of your current ARC results file and play in the copy so that it is easy for you to re-Upload your original results into the Anthem if you get confused and want to go back.


Open up the copy in ARC's Advanced mode. Click on Targets. Make the change you want to make to Max EQ Frequency. Accept that change, which will also dismiss the Targets window. Now click on Calculate to produce the new solution. If you like how your new curves look then click on Upload to get them into your Anthem and go give it a listen.


-----------------------------------------


This issue of how high up ARC should be allowed to correct is not as simple as saying, "No more than 5KHz is always best." We started out that way when ARC was new and PLENTY of folks started reporting that things sounded better in their setup when they let ARC work higher up.


There are two problems to consider:


1) Measuring treble accurately enough to give ARC good data is tricky. Speakers are directional in higher frequencies, and room issues can affect what the mic hears -- even things you might not consider such as humidity.


2) If you tell ARC to perform correction higher up, then the resources it diverts to do that may reduce the quality of the solution in the lower frequencies. This will show as additional wobbles in the green Calculated curve at lower frequencies. Whether or not this happens depends on how much correction ARC needs to do at the lower frequencies in the first place. If you see such wobbles when you go to 20KHz on Max EQ Frequency, then try bringing that back down. Keep splitting the difference until you find a nice compromise that yields additional correction in the high frequencies without introducing new residual errors in the low frequencies. Note that sometimes the tools ARC uses are sensitive to the particular range you use, so you might find 19500 looks good whereas both 19000 and 20000 show some issues. So play around a bit. It takes almost no time at all to experiment this way.


In the final analysis, what matters is what you hear. If a solution with lower Max Eq Frequency (or higher for that matter) sounds better to *YOU* then that result is indeed better even if you are left with some oddness in the charts. Trust your ears.


------------------------------------------------


When you settle on a new ARC result you like, and have Uploaded it and like what you hear, remember to Save User and Installer Settings in Setup to capture the settings ARC has Uploaded so you don't accidentally undo them later by reloading from either of those settings memories.


NOTE: Saving Settings like this only captures the changes ARC makes in the Setup menu. The special "room correction parameters" ARC also Uploads are not saved in those memories. But that's OK because the place they are saved will retain them even if you do a Reload Factory Defaults or install new firmware. Basically they stay put until you replace them by doing a new ARC Upload.


However, this means you can *NOT* put two different ARC solutions into the Anthem -- one in User Settings and one in Installer Settings -- in an attempt to A/B compare them. That just won't work because only the latest set of room correction parameters are retained. So if you want to compare two ARC setups, you need to Upload them each time you switch.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17962234
> 
> 
> It is not.
> 
> 
> There is a fixed delay between each of the 3 trigger outputs from the Anthem, which is not adjustable.
> 
> 
> There are other solutions of course. You can get remotely controllable triggers for example -- plug them into wall power and they produce 12 volts output when the remote tells them to do so.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile tell your programmable remote to turn on that trigger after a suitable delay. You can do this, for example, with the Harmony remotes.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Do you know of any manufacturers offhand of remote controlled triggers? I do have the Harmony One.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17969303
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Do you know of any manufacturers offhand of remote controlled triggers? I do have the Harmony One.



A Google search for "ir remote control 12v trigger" brought up this thread as it's first result:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...ir-remote.html 


A post in that thread mentions the Niles MSU250 as an example of something that will do the trick:

http://www.google.com/products/catal...wAg#ps-sellers 


I only spent 5 minutes pulling up this info, so I think that's a good indication that there are likely other choices out there.


Mind you, I haven't actually tried doing this myself, but this is precisely the sort of thing you might expect to find for sale to the custom installer marketplace.

--Bob


----------



## erchn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17969500
> 
> 
> A Google search for "ir remote control 12v trigger" brought up this thread as it's first result:
> 
> http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...ir-remote.html
> 
> 
> A post in that thread mentions the Niles MSU250 as an example of something that will do the trick:
> 
> http://www.google.com/products/catal...wAg#ps-sellers
> 
> 
> I only spent 5 minutes pulling up this info, so I think that's a good indication that there are likely other choices out there.
> 
> 
> Mind you, I haven't actually tried doing this myself, but this is precisely the sort of thing you might expect to find for sale to the custom installer marketplace.
> 
> --Bob



I believe the MSU250 requires a switched outlet, and input on the status port, before it'll output a 12V trigger. Not ideal, unless your receiver has a switched outlet. Definitely on the right track though.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erchn* /forum/post/17969566
> 
> 
> I believe the MSU250 requires a switched outlet, and input on the status port, before it'll output a 12V trigger. Not ideal, unless your receiver has a switched outlet. Definitely on the right track though.



I have no personal experience with it, but that link I posted says it includes:


"3.5 mm 12 volt output jack triggered by the presence of status or discrete IR commands."


--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17969303
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Do you know of any manufacturers offhand of remote controlled triggers? I do have the Harmony One.



I am using this remote triggered outlet:

Russound - 9500-115592

which use a 12v trigger


I am also using the smart strip power strip.


----------



## husker du

Another way to do it is with a power conditioner. Depending on the brand and model you can trigger the conditioner from the D2V which in turn turns on the power amp after a delay. Perhaps not the best way to do it but it works.


----------



## Milwaukeesk

I am hoping some of the ARC experts could take a quick look at my results. I was thinking of upping the EQ frequency above 10k. I was also a little concerned the way my sub seems to drop off so quick. Please let me know if anything jumps out at you, or if you would suggest any tweaks.


One other question about running ARC. When running, I have a slight rattle in my room that I can hear during some of the test tones, especially the sub. Will this have any effect on the readings?


Thanks Guys!

 

targets.doc 110.5k . file

 

Fronts and Surrounds.doc 98k . file

 

Rears, Center, Sub.doc 97.5k . file


----------



## davoe

"When you settle on a new ARC result you like, and have Uploaded it and like what you hear, remember to Save User and Installer Settings in Setup to capture the settings ARC has Uploaded so you don't accidentally undo them later by reloading from either of those settings memories."


Bob, I don't quite understand your suggestion about saving settings. What is the advantage of saving User and Installer settings if I'm the only one that has set up the processor? And I don't understand why you would undo them if you reloaded the same settings from their memories.


Thanks,

Dave


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/17971785
> 
> 
> I am hoping some of the ARC experts could take a quick look at my results. I was thinking of upping the EQ frequency above 10k. I was also a little concerned the way my sub seems to drop off so quick. Please let me know if anything jumps out at you, or if you would suggest any tweaks.
> 
> 
> One other question about running ARC. When running, I have a slight rattle in my room that I can hear during some of the test tones, especially the sub. Will this have any effect on the readings?
> 
> 
> Thanks Guys!



When upping your Freq. make sure to do it in small increments, always looking for any additional wobbles at the lower freq. I suspect your upper freq will be improved without many disturbances at the lower.

Listening is always the best way to tell if you've improved anything.

John


----------



## obie_fl

Milwaukeesk - In addition to what John said it looks like you have the crossover enabled on your sub. Either disable it if you can or turn it up as high as it will go to get it out of the way.


----------



## Milwaukeesk

Thanks Tom. I actually have the crossover turned all the way up. Not sure what the issue is. Maybe I will try to reposition.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/17971866
> 
> 
> "When you settle on a new ARC result you like, and have Uploaded it and like what you hear, remember to Save User and Installer Settings in Setup to capture the settings ARC has Uploaded so you don't accidentally undo them later by reloading from either of those settings memories."
> 
> 
> Bob, I don't quite understand your suggestion about saving settings. What is the advantage of saving User and Installer settings if I'm the only one that has set up the processor? And I don't understand why you would undo them if you reloaded the same settings from their memories.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave



1. You should always Save Settings after uploading ARC results that you like. Doing it in two places ensures you don't have a senior moment and Restore the wrong one.


Sometimes settings appear to get corrupted and it is necessary to Reload Default Settings and then Reload User or Installer settings. I know I like to not worry about which is which.


It is possible to have different settings in User/Installer, so this just ensures that they are identical.


Belt and suspenders.


----------



## bluemark81

This looks like it might be interesting:

http://www.sherbourn.com/home-theate...rbourn-pt-7020


----------



## BTT917




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17976133
> 
> 
> This looks like it might be interesting:
> 
> http://www.sherbourn.com/home-theate...rbourn-pt-7020



Deja vu, all over again...









http://emotiva.com/umc1.shtm


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTT917* /forum/post/17976201
> 
> 
> Deja vu, all over again...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://emotiva.com/umc1.shtm



Interesting! They have the same guts. What's the association between the two?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/17976564
> 
> 
> Interesting! They have the same guts. What's the association between the two?



Neither will be able to come close to ARC and with their weenie mics like Audessey, they will leave customers wanting









John


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Just out of curiosity, what is the difference between ARC (v.2.4) installed for D2 and D2v?

Because I just made my first ARC measurement with ARC setup for D2.

Then when I realized my mistake I uninstalled and reinstalled choosing D2v.

And finally I used that previous measurement, calculated with the new ARC installation and uploaded.

Is that ok?


Thanks


----------



## Macu

Hi, I live in Europe and bought via net USA model of Anthem D2. When I connected it via step down transformer (350VA isolation transformer) and turned Anthem power on, I could hear rather audible buzz/hum from Anthem when standing next to the unit on the side where Anthem power supply is (it is toroidal type). There were no other cords connected than power cord. Is this buzz normal? It's not huge problem since it's not audible to my listening spot, but I read in this thread that it could mean that power supply is defective? Or is it so that using step down transformer causes this buzz (maybe because of 50hz voltage vs. 60hz) and it cannot be avoided? I asked about these things from Anthem support before buying the unit and they said that only effect from using step down transformer would be that it heats up Anthem's power supply a bit. Can anyone else using Anthem via step down transformer comment on this, do you hear buzz/hum from your Anthem? Any other ideas/comments on subject are welcome also.


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/17976683
> 
> 
> Neither will be able to come close to ARC and with their weenie mics like Audessey, they will leave customers wanting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



No arguments here, but the price point is unbelievable. This has to be good for the pre-amp and external amp industry. The will bring preamps down to the price level of receivers...


All my friends use receivers with or without external amps due to the cost factor. This could allow them to get a pre-amp the next time if they have external amplification. One step closer to wanting an Anthem...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/17978184
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what is the difference between ARC (v.2.4) installed for D2 and D2v?
> 
> Because I just made my first ARC measurement with ARC setup for D2.
> 
> Then when I realized my mistake I uninstalled and reinstalled choosing D2v.
> 
> And finally I used that previous measurement, calculated with the new ARC installation and uploaded.
> 
> Is that ok?
> 
> 
> Thanks



If you mean what's different during the installation of ARC on your computer when asked to select which Anthem processor you are using, the only difference at the moment is in which Anthem processor USER MANUAL gets installed on your computer. There is no difference in the actual ARC application program that gets installed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Macu* /forum/post/17978308
> 
> 
> Hi, I live in Europe and bought via net USA model of Anthem D2. When I connected it via step down transformer (350VA isolation transformer) and turned Anthem power on, I could hear rather audible buzz/hum from Anthem when standing next to the unit on the side where Anthem power supply is (it is toroidal type). There were no other cords connected than power cord. Is this buzz normal? It's not huge problem since it's not audible to my listening spot, but I read in this thread that it could mean that power supply is defective? Or is it so that using step down transformer causes this buzz (maybe because of 50hz voltage vs. 60hz) and it cannot be avoided? I asked about these things from Anthem support before buying the unit and they said that only effect from using step down transformer would be that it heats up Anthem's power supply a bit. Can anyone else using Anthem via step down transformer comment on this, do you hear buzz/hum from your Anthem? Any other ideas/comments on subject are welcome also.



Buzzing from the power supply is not normal.


Your step down transformer may be defective or you may have a problem in the power supply in your D2.


The first step would be to try a different step-down transformer. Make sure it is rated to deliver not only the voltage but also the amperage that the D2 needs for proper operation.

--Bob


----------



## Milwaukeesk

One other question about running ARC. When running, I have a slight rattle in my room that I can hear during some of the test tones, especially the sub. Will this have any effect on the readings?



Can anybody comment on a room rattle when running ARC and what effect if could have on the results?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/17971866
> 
> 
> "When you settle on a new ARC result you like, and have Uploaded it and like what you hear, remember to Save User and Installer Settings in Setup to capture the settings ARC has Uploaded so you don't accidentally undo them later by reloading from either of those settings memories."
> 
> 
> Bob, I don't quite understand your suggestion about saving settings. What is the advantage of saving User and Installer settings if I'm the only one that has set up the processor? And I don't understand why you would undo them if you reloaded the same settings from their memories.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave



User and Installer settings are just two memories for the combined Setup and Video Source Adjust menu settings you can use any way you want. There is no difference between them. [NOTE: Some installers put their setup settings in Installer settings and then password protect that so the owner can't easily change them. The owner can put any variations in User settings, but always has Installer settings safely stashed as a fall-back.]


The idea of saving settings changes in both places is just for safety so that you can always reload settings from either memory. When making changes I will typically save in User settings until I know I like the change and then I will also save in Installer settings.


Keep in mind that if you ever do accidentally alter the Setup menu changes ARC Uploads you can easily recover by opening your latest ARC results file in ARC's Advanced mode and just re-doing the Upload. No need to re-Measure or re-Calculate.


EXAMPLE: It is not supposed to be necessary to re-Upload ARC results after a firmware install, but I always do it anyway, "just in case". When you do the firmware install you need to have Factory Defaults loaded. So what I do is:


1) Save User Settings and Save Installer Settings. I also make a backup copy of my Setup menu settings to my PC using Settings Backup utility, and a backup copy of my Video Source Adjust menu settings to my PC using Live Video Settings Editor utility.


2) Reload Factory Defaults


3) Do the firmware install


4) Reload Saved User Settings. Do the power off, power on, wait 30 seconds and power off to complete the firmware install instructions.


5) Re-Upload my most recent ARC results file.


6) Take a quick look around in Setup to see that everything looks as I expect.


7) Save User Settings.


8) Do some listening and viewing tests to make sure everything seems to be functioning as expected.


9) And finally, Save Installer Settings. I.e., I keep my Installer Settings intact as an emergency fall-back until I'm comfortable everything went well with the firmware install. If not, I can roll back to the prior firmware using saved Installer Settings as my fall-back. Now mind you, I'm frequently installing "test" beta firmware from Anthem, so this extra bit of paranoia is sometimes justified.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/17978779
> 
> 
> One other question about running ARC. When running, I have a slight rattle in my room that I can hear during some of the test tones, especially the sub. Will this have any effect on the readings?
> 
> 
> 
> Can anybody comment on a room rattle when running ARC and what effect if could have on the results?



If you can hear the room rattle during the ARC sweep tones than so can ARC. So yes it affects your ARC results.


There's a good "Buzz & Rattle" test track on "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray that you can play to locate the source of room rattles and deal with them.


Also, check the basic volume level of your ARC results -- the volume level of the flat part of the black, dashed, Target curves in the mid-range frequencies to the right of the crossover frequencies. If that is significantly above 75dB then lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level. ARC uses that setting to set the volume of its test sweep tones and to control the over-all volume level of the ARC solution. If that volume level is too high then you are more likely to excite existing buzzes or rattles in your room during the ARC test sweep tones.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/17973205
> 
> 
> Thanks Tom. I actually have the crossover turned all the way up. Not sure what the issue is. Maybe I will try to reposition.



Double check your sub manual. If you have a "THX" setting on the sub, that may force a fixed 80Hz crossover and ignore any crossover frequency knob setting you might make.


Also, I recently discovered that some subs (by Rel) have an odd implementation of their internal crossover where raising the "frequency" setting does not actually change the roll-off frequency point of the sub's internal crossover. Instead what it does is raise the VOLUME at that frequency so that it kind of tilts the whole response curve. Odd but true.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/17971785
> 
> 
> I am hoping some of the ARC experts could take a quick look at my results. I was thinking of upping the EQ frequency above 10k. I was also a little concerned the way my sub seems to drop off so quick. Please let me know if anything jumps out at you, or if you would suggest any tweaks.
> 
> 
> One other question about running ARC. When running, I have a slight rattle in my room that I can hear during some of the test tones, especially the sub. Will this have any effect on the readings?
> 
> 
> Thanks Guys!



Before your next ARC run, lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level by 5dB to get the basic volume level of your ARC solution down closer to 75dB.


All four of your surround speakers are quite weak in bass. This is a problem because your subwoofer does not go very high in bass so you've got a gap. Check to see if your surrounds have any adjustment to enhance their bass output -- e.g., a bass port you can open. If they have separate wiring inputs for bass and mid-range/treble, make sure the wiring inputs for bass are actually connected. Typically this is done by using buss bar straps between the two pairs of binding posts at the back of the speaker. Make sure the binding posts are screwed down tight onto the bus bar straps.


Check to see if you can raise the internal crossover in your subwoofer (see post above).


You have weak treble output in LF/RF and Center. It appears this is real since you have good treble in LS/RS and pretty good treble in LR/RR.


Start by checking the pointing of LF/RF and C, paying particular attention to their vertical pointing. If you have any special grill cloth over their tweeters try removing it. For LF/RF, don't toe them in to point directly at ARC mic position #1. A good rule of thumb is to swing them around only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular to the screen towards your center seating position.


Play some stereo content with treble, use Stereo All or Mono All audio mode, and go put your ear up close to the tweeter in these speakers to make sure the tweeter is actually firing.


Raising the Max EQ Frequency Target value will give you additional correction above 5KHz, but try to improve the MEASURED treble results first.

--Bob


----------



## Milwaukeesk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17978975
> 
> 
> Before your next ARC run, lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level by 5dB to get the basic volume level of your ARC solution down closer to 75dB.
> 
> 
> All four of your surround speakers are quite weak in bass. This is a problem because your subwoofer does not go very high in bass so you've got a gap. Check to see if your surrounds have any adjustment to enhance their bass output -- e.g., a bass port you can open. If they have separate wiring inputs for bass and mid-range/treble, make sure the wiring inputs for bass are actually connected. Typically this is done by using buss bar straps between the two pairs of binding posts at the back of the speaker. Make sure the binding posts are screwed down tight onto the bus bar straps.
> 
> 
> Check to see if you can raise the internal crossover in your subwoofer (see post above).
> 
> 
> You have weak treble output in LF/RF and Center. It appears this is real since you have good treble in LS/RS and pretty good treble in LR/RR.
> 
> 
> Start by checking the pointing of LF/RF and C, paying particular attention to their vertical pointing. If you have any special grill cloth over their tweeters try removing it. For LF/RF, don't toe them in to point directly at ARC mic position #1. A good rule of thumb is to swing them around only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular to the screen towards your center seating position.
> 
> 
> Play some stereo content with treble, use Stereo All or Mono All audio mode, and go put your ear up close to the tweeter in these speakers to make sure the tweeter is actually firing.
> 
> 
> Raising the Max EQ Frequency Target value will give you additional correction above 5KHz, but try to improve the MEASURED treble results first.
> 
> --Bob




Will do. I thought I had the sub dialed in before the ARC but I will double check. (I followed your suggestion regarding the the front left and Sub both being zero'd out).


I will look back into the issue with my sub. It's a Sunfire Signature Sub (it does not have the EQ option). I will check to make sure that no internal crossovers are set. The crossover know was turned all the way up. The 2 sets of rear speakers are all matching but are a smaller satellite type speaker so the lack of base is not surprise. Bi-amping is obviously not an option with these. This makes the issue with the sub even more important.


I'll check the positioning but am confident I have that correct. One thing that does come to mind is that the front 3 speakers are the Polk LSi series speakers and had a radial tweeter which often results in a more laid back sound than the traditional tweeter, including horns. However, even with this type of tweeter it sounds like I am missing something...



All this said... THANKS BOB!!! I really appreciate the value you bring to this forum and the help you provided me, especially considering your full plate outside of this forum.


This hobby is an addiction. I want to make sure everything is right/perfect, and it kills me to know that I spent good money on quality equipment and technology that I am not using correctly or to its fullest potential....like so many others out there are


----------



## Macu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17978749
> 
> 
> Buzzing from the power supply is not normal.
> 
> 
> Your step down transformer may be defective or you may have a problem in the power supply in your D2.
> 
> 
> The first step would be to try a different step-down transformer. Make sure it is rated to deliver not only the voltage but also the amperage that the D2 needs for proper operation.
> 
> --Bob



Can you give examples of step down transformers that are known to work with D2 without any problems?


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17962311
> 
> 
> Something is wrong with your Center speaker. Put your ear up close to the mid-range driver and listen to check that it is firing. It looks like you may have lost the mid-range, which means the woofer and tweeter are being asked to carry that load.
> 
> 
> That 15dB swing between 45Hz and 60Hz in the Measured curve for your sub is also pretty dramatic. Some positioning adjustments may help reduce that. At these frequencies even inches matter.
> 
> 
> You've got some high frequency roll-off in the surrounds and center which look like they could be speaker-pointing related.
> 
> 
> What Room Gain did ARC find before you changed it to 3.0dB?
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob,

There is one question I came up with.

How come I do not have a 60hz drop from any of my speakers except sub. The sub is sitting between my center and FR.


I appreciate your input.


----------



## davoe

I'm trying to save my video settings. I attached my serial cable which works well with ARC, turn on the D2v and get "connected" to the unit. I select "get" and the light starts blinking on the Keyspan, then after a short time the light on the Keyspan stays on and many minutes go by without completing the retrieval. I have to select abort to stop the process. Any help would be appreciated. I have all the latest firmware.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/17978385
> 
> 
> No arguments here, but the price point is unbelievable. This has to be good for the pre-amp and external amp industry. The will bring preamps down to the price level of receivers...
> 
> 
> All my friends use receivers with or without external amps due to the cost factor. This could allow them to get a pre-amp the next time if they have external amplification. One step closer to wanting an Anthem...



Can't argue with that









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Macu* /forum/post/17980062
> 
> 
> Can you give examples of step down transformers that are known to work with D2 without any problems?



Sorry, no I can not. However Anthem tech support may be able to help you or direct you to an info source at the international distributor that serves your area.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Macu* /forum/post/17978308
> 
> 
> Hi, I live in Europe and bought via net USA model of Anthem D2. When I connected it via step down transformer (350VA isolation transformer) and turned Anthem power on, I could hear rather audible buzz/hum from Anthem when standing next to the unit on the side where Anthem power supply is (it is toroidal type). There were no other cords connected than power cord. Is this buzz normal? It's not huge problem since it's not audible to my listening spot, but I read in this thread that it could mean that power supply is defective? Or is it so that using step down transformer causes this buzz (maybe because of 50hz voltage vs. 60hz) and it cannot be avoided? I asked about these things from Anthem support before buying the unit and they said that only effect from using step down transformer would be that it heats up Anthem's power supply a bit. Can anyone else using Anthem via step down transformer comment on this, do you hear buzz/hum from your Anthem? Any other ideas/comments on subject are welcome also.



Seems your 350VA transformer ought to be sufficient for a 170W product. Easy to tell if you have an AC voltmeter, and some nerve.










Not sure why a step-down would cause the interal supply to heat up any. The 50 Hz, I'd believe. The D2v manual mentions the AC range as 108 to 132 volts. If you want to run it cooler, could try droping the input from 120 to 115, as long as you don't get too close to dipping under 110 during low-line conditions.


The manual also mentions the high voltage option that accepts 50 Hz supplies, so that's a positive sign that it tolerates 50 Hz. I guess there's no retrofit option, though?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/17981107
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> There is one question I came up with.
> 
> How come I do not have a 60hz drop from any of my speakers except sub. The sub is sitting between my center and FR.
> 
> 
> I appreciate your input.



That looks like a room response problem as it is also showing up in LF/RF and C -- i.e., look at the peak at 50Hz in each of those. The fact that it is dropping more sharply towards 60Hz in sub is likely partly due to positioning -- even inches matter at these frequencies -- and partly due to the natural roll off of the sub.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17982370
> 
> 
> That looks like a room response problem as it is also showing up in LF/RF and C -- i.e., look at the peak at 50Hz in each of those. The fact that it is dropping more sharply towards 60Hz in sub is likely partly due to positioning -- even inches matter at these frequencies -- and partly due to the natural roll off of the sub.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/17981642
> 
> 
> I'm trying to save my video settings. I attached my serial cable which works well with ARC, turn on the D2v and get "connected" to the unit. I select "get" and the light starts blinking on the Keyspan, then after a short time the light on the Keyspan stays on and many minutes go by without completing the retrieval. I have to select abort to stop the process. Any help would be appreciated. I have all the latest firmware.



This has been reported before. I don't know why there isn't a fix for it yet.


Apparently the trick to getting this to work correctly is to turn on the D2v *BEFORE* your run LVSE in your Windows computer so that the D2v is already powered up when LVSE starts up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/17980058
> 
> 
> Will do. I thought I had the sub dialed in before the ARC but I will double check. (I followed your suggestion regarding the the front left and Sub both being zero'd out).
> 
> 
> I will look back into the issue with my sub. It's a Sunfire Signature Sub (it does not have the EQ option). I will check to make sure that no internal crossovers are set. The crossover know was turned all the way up. The 2 sets of rear speakers are all matching but are a smaller satellite type speaker so the lack of base is not surprise. Bi-amping is obviously not an option with these. This makes the issue with the sub even more important.
> 
> 
> I'll check the positioning but am confident I have that correct. One thing that does come to mind is that the front 3 speakers are the Polk LSi series speakers and had a radial tweeter which often results in a more laid back sound than the traditional tweeter, including horns. However, even with this type of tweeter it sounds like I am missing something...
> 
> 
> 
> All this said... THANKS BOB!!! I really appreciate the value you bring to this forum and the help you provided me, especially considering your full plate outside of this forum.
> 
> 
> This hobby is an addiction. I want to make sure everything is right/perfect, and it kills me to know that I spent good money on quality equipment and technology that I am not using correctly or to its fullest potential....like so many others out there are



There is apparently a bug in the way that ARC interprets the Test Level setting which can cause the ARC result to come in 6dB too loud for some folks. That's probably what happened to you. Just lower Test Level and you'll be in good shape.


My recollection is that some Sunfire Signature subs had a separate input jack to bypass internal crossover processing. Check for that.

--Bob


----------



## davoe

Thanks Bob, I've already tried that. I'll just have to wait for a fix. I've emailed Anthem and they asked me to set baud rate and stop bits, which I did. Nothing seems to work.

Correction: I tried exactly what you said and it worked!


Thanks again,

Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/17982455
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I've already tried that. I'll just have to wait for a fix. I've emailed Anthem and they asked me to set baud rate and stop bits, which I did. Nothing seems to work.



Reboot your computer. Power cycle the D2v with the remote and also turn off its back panel power switch for a few seconds to put everything into a fresh state.


Try again, with the D2v powered up before you start LVSE. Do not use the unit power off/on buttons in LVSE.


NOTE: If you are using the D2v serial port for remote control (e.g., Crestron), be sure to restore the factory settings in the RS-232 menu in the D2v prior to using utilities like LVSE.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/17978385
> 
> 
> No arguments here, but the price point is unbelievable. This has to be good for the pre-amp and external amp industry. The will bring preamps down to the price level of receivers...
> 
> 
> All my friends use receivers with or without external amps due to the cost factor. This could allow them to get a pre-amp the next time if they have external amplification. One step closer to wanting an Anthem...



One word of advice on pre/pros....wait.

Wait for it to be in the field and read the feedback.

IMO, modern pre/pros are the most difficult component to get "right" by far.

Denon, Anthem and Onkyo\\Integra are legitimate success stories.

A lot of well regarded names have found the ditch trying to navigate this path.

In many ways and for most the receiver route is the smartest choice.

If this thing pans out, I'm guessing you'll see some law breakers selling it.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17982370
> 
> 
> That looks like a room response problem as it is also showing up in LF/RF and C -- i.e., look at the peak at 50Hz in each of those. The fact that it is dropping more sharply towards 60Hz in sub is likely partly due to positioning -- even inches matter at these frequencies -- and partly due to the natural roll off of the sub.
> 
> --Bob



speaking of moving speakers, I just moved my Studio 100s another 1.5' from the back wall and then lowered my EQ freq and now have the best curves yet. Got rid of a troublesome dip b/t 50 and 100 Hz that has plagued my system for more time than I'd like to admit. I have now removed my sub for music as well. The bass is very tight and imaging is better now. My music curves for the front look amazing and the results match. I cannot detect any loss in high freq from lowering my EQ frequency. So far its amazing so when Bob mentions speaker movement, listen









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Word has already started to leak out that Oppo will release their new, less expensive, Blu-Ray player for sale on Monday.


To forestall questions: If you are using one of the Anthem processors with ARC then you should, in my opinion be using HDMI from the Oppo player (whether the current BDP-83 or the new one coming out on Monday) for audio rather than using its analog outputs. And given that, the main difference between the two players will be in the quality of SD-DVD video playback when you have *THE PLAYER* do the de-interlacing and scaling.


With the current BDP-83 player, I'm perfectly happy letting the player scale SD-DVD discs to 1080p for output. This makes it easy to use some of the convenience features in the player such as auto-pillar-boxing of 4:3 content. With the new player, I'd be more likely to recommend you use Source Direct so that you are sending SD-DVD video to the Anthem as HDMI 480i, so that the Anthem will do the de-interlacing and scaling. It's not that the SD-DVD processing in the new player is bad by any means. It's as good as the best Oppo previously offered on their SD-DVD players. It is just that the video processing in the D2v and AVM 50v is better.


Also the player's built-in zoom modes will look better in the BDP-83 than in the new player.


If you intend to use the analog audio outputs of the Oppo, the BDP-83 is a better choice than the player coming out on Monday, and the BDP-83SE is even better than that.


-------------------------------------


Another note for Oppo Blu-Ray player users: There is a new setting in the latest firmware called "HDCD Decoding". You should turn that ON in your Oppo when connected to an Anthem processor, as the Anthems do not decode the extra dynamic range matrixed into HDCD disc audio.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17986521
> 
> 
> Word has already started to leak out that Oppo will release their new, less expensive, Blu-Ray player for sale on Monday.



There's already a thread started in the Blu-Ray Players forum:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1219906 


And a product page on the Oppo site:
http://www.oppodigital.com/blu-ray-b...-Features.aspx 


This looks like a perfect match for my D2!


----------



## Donloz




Bob Pariseau said:


> Here is another up grade to the OPPO 83
> 
> http://www.nuforce.com/hi/
> 
> 
> If you intend to use the analog audio outputs of the Oppo, the BDP-83 is a better choice than the player coming out on Monday, and the BDP-83SE is even better than that.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------


----------



## bluemark81

Any word on Dolby Volume?


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17809967
> 
> 
> Okay, I tried this and had identical results. After loading the factory default settings I went to the Test Level (set to 0.0). It was about 60dB. I turned the AVM off and back on. Now the test tone was over 80dB. I backed it off to 75dB and re-ran ARC. Here are my initial results. The carpeting has helped smooth things out a bit.
> 
> 
> Aram



Okay folks, I have noticed another issue that is along the same lines as this initial observation. Again, I am using 2.08a.


Normally when watching movies or listening to music, I turn the volume on the AVM50v to about -15 dB. I cannot tolerate the volume to be much higher than this.


Sometimes when I turn on the AVM I have to turn the volume up as high as 0.0 or maybe even +5.0 dB. When this happens, I turn the AVM off and back on and now I have to back the volume down to the normal -15dB. Any ideas what is causing this?


Aram


----------



## aramb

I have attached my theater layout below. Would someone make some suggestions as to the best locations for mic placement while running ARC. I currently have been placing the mic in each of the three front seating locations and at the left and right seating locations in the rear row. However, I wonder if this is causing an odd solution since the rear row of seats is slightly behind the side (in-ceiling) surrounds.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17995313
> 
> 
> I have attached my theater layout below. Would someone make some suggestions as to the best locations for mic placement while running ARC. I currently have been placing the mic in each of the three front seating locations and at the left and right seating locations in the rear row. However, I wonder if this is causing an odd solution since the rear row of seats is slightly behind the side (in-ceiling) surrounds.



My usual recommendation for this seating would be a "box" configuration for the mics:


2......................3


............1...........


4......................5


Where 1 is behind the center seat in the first row -- perhaps on the line between the side surrounds in your diagram and the other 4 positions are over the corner seats in the two rows. Use the same mic tip height for all 5 positions (seated ear height -- with seats reclined if that's how you use them) and make sure the diagonal distance from #1 to each of the others is greater than 24" -- I tend to use 30".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17994914
> 
> 
> Okay folks, I have noticed another issue that is along the same lines as this initial observation. Again, I am using 2.08a.
> 
> 
> Normally when watching movies or listening to music, I turn the volume on the AVM50v to about -15 dB. I cannot tolerate the volume to be much higher than this.
> 
> 
> Sometimes when I turn on the AVM I have to turn the volume up as high as 0.0 or maybe even +5.0 dB. When this happens, I turn the AVM off and back on and now I have to back the volume down to the normal -15dB. Any ideas what is causing this?
> 
> 
> Aram



No idea on these two issues. You'd best work this with Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17995345
> 
> 
> My usual recommendation for this seating would be a "box" configuration for the mics:
> 
> 
> 2......................3
> 
> 
> ............1...........
> 
> 
> 4......................5
> 
> 
> Where 1 is behind the center seat in the first row -- perhaps on the line between the side surrounds in your diagram and the other 4 positions are over the corner seats in the two rows. Use the same mic tip height for all 5 positions (seated ear height -- with seats reclined if that's how you use them) and make sure the diagonal distance from #1 to each of the others is greater than 24" -- I tend to use 30".
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. I will give this a try and see if it gives me a better solution.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17995350
> 
> 
> No idea on these two issues. You'd best work this with Anthem tech support.
> 
> --Bob



I emailed Nick on this issue. Hopefully it is not a hardware issue.


Aram


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17994914
> 
> 
> Okay folks, I have noticed another issue that is along the same lines as this initial observation. Again, I am using 2.08a.
> 
> 
> Normally when watching movies or listening to music, I turn the volume on the AVM50v to about -15 dB. I cannot tolerate the volume to be much higher than this.
> 
> 
> Sometimes when I turn on the AVM I have to turn the volume up as high as 0.0 or maybe even +5.0 dB. When this happens, I turn the AVM off and back on and now I have to back the volume down to the normal -15dB. Any ideas what is causing this?
> 
> 
> Aram



Greetings,


This has happend to me a few times as well..



Regards,


----------



## aramb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/17995623
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> This has happend to me a few times as well..
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Thanks, Ralph. I guess I feel a little better knowing that this is not a unique problem to my processor.


Aram


----------



## skman09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17995800
> 
> 
> Thanks, Ralph. I guess I feel a little better knowing that this is not a unique problem to my processor.
> 
> 
> Aram



Thia has happened to me as well.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17967676
> 
> 
> Roger is correct. If you feel like experimenting you can adjust Max EQ Frequency without having to re-Measure.
> 
> 
> I suggest you make a copy of your current ARC results file and play in the copy so that it is easy for you to re-Upload your original results into the Anthem if you get confused and want to go back.
> 
> 
> Open up the copy in ARC's Advanced mode. Click on Targets. Make the change you want to make to Max EQ Frequency. Accept that change, which will also dismiss the Targets window. Now click on Calculate to produce the new solution. If you like how your new curves look then click on Upload to get them into your Anthem and go give it a listen.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> This issue of how high up ARC should be allowed to correct is not as simple as saying, "No more than 5KHz is always best." We started out that way when ARC was new and PLENTY of folks started reporting that things sounded better in their setup when they let ARC work higher up.
> 
> 
> There are two problems to consider:
> 
> 
> 1) Measuring treble accurately enough to give ARC good data is tricky. Speakers are directional in higher frequencies, and room issues can affect what the mic hears -- even things you might not consider such as humidity.
> 
> 
> 2) If you tell ARC to perform correction higher up, then the resources it diverts to do that may reduce the quality of the solution in the lower frequencies. This will show as additional wobbles in the green Calculated curve at lower frequencies. Whether or not this happens depends on how much correction ARC needs to do at the lower frequencies in the first place. If you see such wobbles when you go to 20KHz on Max EQ Frequency, then try bringing that back down. Keep splitting the difference until you find a nice compromise that yields additional correction in the high frequencies without introducing new residual errors in the low frequencies. Note that sometimes the tools ARC uses are sensitive to the particular range you use, so you might find 19500 looks good whereas both 19000 and 20000 show some issues. So play around a bit. It takes almost no time at all to experiment this way.
> 
> 
> In the final analysis, what matters is what you hear. If a solution with lower Max Eq Frequency (or higher for that matter) sounds better to *YOU* then that result is indeed better even if you are left with some oddness in the charts. Trust your ears.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> When you settle on a new ARC result you like, and have Uploaded it and like what you hear, remember to Save User and Installer Settings in Setup to capture the settings ARC has Uploaded so you don't accidentally undo them later by reloading from either of those settings memories.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Saving Settings like this only captures the changes ARC makes in the Setup menu. The special "room correction parameters" ARC also Uploads are not saved in those memories. But that's OK because the place they are saved will retain them even if you do a Reload Factory Defaults or install new firmware. Basically they stay put until you replace them by doing a new ARC Upload.
> 
> 
> However, this means you can *NOT* put two different ARC solutions into the Anthem -- one in User Settings and one in Installer Settings -- in an attempt to A/B compare them. That just won't work because only the latest set of room correction parameters are retained. So if you want to compare two ARC setups, you need to Upload them each time you switch.
> 
> --Bob



This is very informative post. One that everyone using the ARC should read. That's for posting it Bob. Very helpful.


----------



## dmusoke

I now have 2 subwoofers and need to know how to perform ARC with them.


Do I run ARC using one subwoofer while the other is disconnected or do i run both simultaneously after calibrating them each to 72dB using my RS meter?


Thanks,

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/17996995
> 
> 
> I now have 2 subwoofers and need to know how to perform ARC with them.
> 
> 
> Do I run ARC using one subwoofer while the other is disconnected or do i run both simultaneously after calibrating them each to 72dB using my RS meter?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



You need to have both running when you do your ARC Measurements.


PRIOR to doing your ARC Measurements, set the volume knob, Polarity and Phase on each subwoofer separately (i.e, with only one turned on at a time):


1) In Setup > Speaker Configuration > Bass Management Movie & Music set "1 Sub". You must always use "1 Sub" (or NO subs) when you intend to use ARC. Also you must enter your proper speaker distances in Setup > Listener Position. If the two subs are at different distances from ARC mic position #1, split the difference and use that distance. With more than one sub, you must do this prior to making ARC Measurements since you will need to adjust sub Polarity/Phase prior to that and Polarity/Phase is a function of speaker distances.


2) Zero all lines in Setup > Level Calibration.


3) Set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level to yield 75dB SPL using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter pointing straight up at ARC mic position #1.


4) After setting Test Level, separately adjust the volume trim for whichever main speaker(s) you are going to use when adjusting subwoofer Polarity/Phase. Note that the LF and Test Level lines interact so you need to have the LF line at 0dB when setting Test Level. Typically you will use LF when testing sub Polarity/Phase so you don't actually need to do anything other than set Test Level and leave LF at 0dB.


5) Power off one subwoofer. Scroll down to a subwoofer volume trim line, leaving it at 0dB, and adjust the internal volume knob in the subwoofer which is powered up to yield 72dB (not 75dB). In typical sub positioning configurations, two subs playing at 72dB will yield 75dB when played together. Repeat with just the other sub powered on. Note that to do this you must have a volume control built into each sub. You can not do it with the volume trims built into the Anthem as the two sub outputs of the Anthem always produce the same volume of output.


6) Now, and again with only one sub powered at a time, adjust the Polarity and Phase controls built into each sub. Once again you must do this with the controls built into each sub. Typically you will match each sub's Polarity and Phase to the LF main speaker, acting as a surrogate for all your speakers. When both subs are in proper phase with LF, then they are also in proper phase with each other. For tips on how to adjust Polarity and Phase see the post links in the Setup section of the first post of this thread.


7) Power up both subs and go do your ARC Measurements. ARC will hear both subs playing at the same time, which is why you needed to do the Polarity/Phase preliminaries above.


8) If you discover you have the 6dB volume problem in your ARC solution (basic volume level coming in 6dB too high), you can lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level by 6dB prior to your next ARC run. No need to redo anything as regards the other speaker volume trims or the knob settings on each subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aramb* /forum/post/17994914
> 
> 
> Okay folks, I have noticed another issue that is along the same lines as this initial observation. Again, I am using 2.08a.
> 
> 
> Normally when watching movies or listening to music, I turn the volume on the AVM50v to about -15 dB. I cannot tolerate the volume to be much higher than this.
> 
> 
> Sometimes when I turn on the AVM I have to turn the volume up as high as 0.0 or maybe even +5.0 dB. When this happens, I turn the AVM off and back on and now I have to back the volume down to the normal -15dB. Any ideas what is causing this?
> 
> 
> Aram



For the folks who are hearing this volume problem, try this. Go to Setup > Save and Load Settings and:


1) Save User Settings


2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue using the front panel display


3) Reload Saved User Settings.


This procedure resets all of the "temporary" speaker volume adjustments you can set using the Remote (Manual section 4.6). Since these volume adjustments are remembered separately for sources and types of audio input, if you've played with them you can easily confuse yourself as to which ones you've left set.


--------------------------------


If it still happens, check Setup > Source Setup for the Source you have selected for input and make sure Auto Dig is OFF and, if you are using ARC, that Room EQ is ON for that Source.


It is more likely that you have found a new bug, but these are things you can check while waiting to hear from Nick.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Hi all,


For some days now I've been experiencing a relatively soft buzzing sound from 3 channels, namely, front left, left surround and center. I've tried locating the cause of this problem and have found that my D2 is the source. If the mute button is on, the 3 speakers beep clearly in timing with the blinking panel display.


I'm using firmware v1.33 with ARC.


If Bob, or any of you guys, can shed any light on the possible cause of this problem, I shall be very grateful. Many thanks.


Ben


----------



## Kensmith48

I recently did another ARC measurement and upload for my Anthem D2 w/ 1.33. I'm not sure if it caused the following problem, but now I don't receive any audio while using the hdmi cable for SD on the Oppo 983. It works fine with the Oppo BD 83. I swapped the hdmi cable out on the 983 and I got the same result. If I use a coax or optical cable I get audio. I'm using an Oppo BD-83 for BD and an Oppo 983 for SD. I went this route to save time of not using frame lock. My settings are about the same except for the Video # and the Scaler #. The settings are: audio in: hdmi, Auto Dig: no,

Hdmi Map: auto, Room EQ: On. Of course I only get audio after making the change in the setup for either coax or optical. It seems strange that the audio works for bd but not sd with the hdmi cable. I should add that the settings in the 983's setup are: hdmi: lpcm, Digital Output: RAW, LPCM Rate: 96k.


My other question is: If I want either the Oppo-83 BD or the Oppo-983 SD to do the scaling rather than the Anthem how do I set this up? It seems that the Anthem is always doing the scaling. On the Oppo 983 SD if I set the player at 1080p the Anthem shows 1080p in the display but it blinks a Magenta color approx. every 10 sec. If I put it at 480p everything is ok but the Anthem display says 480p also so I doubt if it's upcoverting to 1080p as set up in the Anthem's menu.


Thanks for any solutions,

Ken


----------



## davoe

I have a Runco PlasmaWall 61DHD display. Before I installed the D2v, the Runco DHD did all the scaling and processing with it's Vivix II processor.


I now have all my video sources going to the Anthem instead of the Runco. I now output the Anthem directly to the Runco 61" display instead of it's DHD scalar. The display's native resolution is 1365x768p.


I have three questions:


1. Should I expect the VXP chip in the Anthem to do a better processing job than the 5 year old design of the Vivix II chip?


2. What resolution should I specify for the video output of the D2v? Auto and 1920x1080i60 both work, 1366x768p60 doesn't work.


3. Should I specify my native resolution in the LVSE instead of using the two above?


----------



## Milt99

I'm going to put a RadianceXD into my chain to take advantage of its CMS.

I'm assuming I would keep my current gear plugged into the HDMI inputs on the D2, put a new HDMI cable from the out of the D2 to an input on the Radiance and then connect my projector to the output of the Radiance.

That's the only config that makes sense to me.

I haven't looked at the D2 manual in ages, I'm assuming there's an HDMI pass-through mode on the D2 if I want to avoid "redundant processing" or would it be necessary\\desirable to do this.

Thanks.


----------



## obie_fl

There is no HDMI video pass-thru on the D2. It would actually make more sense that you put the Radiance in front of the D2 and match the output of the D2 to the Radiance so the D2 does little to no processing. I'm assuming the Radiance doesn't muck with the audio.


----------



## barrygordon

I am a new owner of a AVM-50v. This thread is sort of long so please do not flame me for not doing a proper search. I am just setting up my system and going slowly (by choice) All of the cabling is done and all seems to be working but I have not yet started the ARC-1 tuning process. My entire theater is controlled by a dedicated PC so I am controling the 50v completely through RS232. I am just finishing up the final bits of code for whole house audio for which I am using zone 2. No major issues or surprises.


This evening I had a strange occurence (FW 2.08). When I turned on the system the volume was greatly subdued. Whereas I normally have it at -15 for normal listening I had to crank it up to +9 to get the sound I previously had gotten at -15. I cycled the units power using the rear on off switch and turned the unit on again and the volume was now correct with normal volume at a setting of -15. Has any one seen this before and/or does it happen often.


Thanks in advance.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/18004967
> 
> 
> I am a new owner of a AVM-50v. This thread is sort of long so please do not flame me for not doing a proper search. I am just setting up my system and going slowly (by choice) All of the cabling is done and all seems to be working but I have not yet started the ARC-1 tuning process. My entire theater is controlled by a dedicated PC so I am controling the 50v completely through RS232. I am just finishing up the final bits of code for whole house audio for which I am using zone 2. No major issues or surprises.
> 
> 
> This evening I had a strange occurence (FW 2.08). When I turned on the system the volume was greatly subdued. Whereas I normally have it at -15 for normal listening I had to crank it up to +9 to get the sound I previously had gotten at -15. I cycled the units power using the rear on off switch and turned the unit on again and the volume was now correct with normal volume at a setting of -15. Has any one seen this before and/or does it happen often.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



See post #26521 above from Bob P.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17998107
> 
> 
> You need to have both running when you do your ARC Measurements.
> 
> 
> PRIOR to doing your ARC Measurements, set the volume knob, Polarity and Phase on each subwoofer separately (i.e, with only one turned on at a time):
> 
> 
> 1) In Setup > Speaker Configuration > Bass Management Movie & Music set "1 Sub". You must always use "1 Sub" (or NO subs) when you intend to use ARC. Also you must enter your proper speaker distances in Setup > Listener Position. If the two subs are at different distances from ARC mic position #1, split the difference and use that distance. With more than one sub, you must do this prior to making ARC Measurements since you will need to adjust sub Polarity/Phase prior to that and Polarity/Phase is a function of speaker distances.
> 
> 
> 2) Zero all lines in Setup > Level Calibration.
> 
> 
> 3) Set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level to yield 75dB SPL using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter pointing straight up at ARC mic position #1.
> 
> 
> 4) After setting Test Level, separately adjust the volume trim for whichever main speaker(s) you are going to use when adjusting subwoofer Polarity/Phase. Note that the LF and Test Level lines interact so you need to have the LF line at 0dB when setting Test Level. Typically you will use LF when testing sub Polarity/Phase so you don't actually need to do anything other than set Test Level and leave LF at 0dB.
> 
> 
> 5) Power off one subwoofer. Scroll down to a subwoofer volume trim line, leaving it at 0dB, and adjust the internal volume knob in the subwoofer which is powered up to yield 72dB (not 75dB). In typical sub positioning configurations, two subs playing at 72dB will yield 75dB when played together. Repeat with just the other sub powered on. Note that to do this you must have a volume control built into each sub. You can not do it with the volume trims built into the Anthem as the two sub outputs of the Anthem always produce the same volume of output.
> 
> 
> 6) Now, and again with only one sub powered at a time, adjust the Polarity and Phase controls built into each sub. Once again you must do this with the controls built into each sub. Typically you will match each sub's Polarity and Phase to the LF main speaker, acting as a surrogate for all your speakers. When both subs are in proper phase with LF, then they are also in proper phase with each other. For tips on how to adjust Polarity and Phase see the post links in the Setup section of the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> 7) Power up both subs and go do your ARC Measurements. ARC will hear both subs playing at the same time, which is why you needed to do the Polarity/Phase preliminaries above.
> 
> 
> 8) If you discover you have the 6dB volume problem in your ARC solution (basic volume level coming in 6dB too high), you can lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level by 6dB prior to your next ARC run. No need to redo anything as regards the other speaker volume trims or the knob settings on each subwoofer.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob....this is really helpful


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/18004967
> 
> 
> This evening I had a strange occurence (FW 2.08). When I turned on the system the volume was greatly subdued. Whereas I normally have it at -15 for normal listening I had to crank it up to +9 to get the sound I previously had gotten at -15. I cycled the units power using the rear on off switch and turned the unit on again and the volume was now correct with normal volume at a setting of -15. Has any one seen this before and/or does it happen often.



I have had this and other weirdness happen with my 50v. Turning off the power using the switch on the back and unplugging it for a bit brings everything back to normal. It's like the processor needs a reboot once in awhile. I haven't been able to pin down any series of events that might cause the problems. Even the frequency of the problem isn't consistant. Sometimes I will go for weeks without a reboot and sometimes it's only days. I'm thinking that there could be a buffer overrun or memory leak in the software. What I haven't done is download the software again and reload it. A bad software load could cause this too.


----------



## stummala

A quick general question regarding the ARC-1. I recently sold my AVM50 and purchased a D2. Does the ARC setup take into account room acoustics in terms of echo/delay? My system is in a room with some glass, hardwood floors and drywall. Unfortunately, I just don't have enough furniture or room accents (yet) to help deaden the sound. Therefore, the room has an open, echoey feel to it.


Does ARC sense this when taking measurements and can the system attempt to somewhat compensate for room echo?


Thanks,


Satish Tummala


----------



## barrygordon

I believe one of the major purposes of the ARC system is to do just that. In the operations manual for the 50v they discuss how yoiu should keep the room just the way it will be furniture wise when you are listening as that is necessary to properly measure reflections and hence echos.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stummala* /forum/post/18015297
> 
> 
> A quick general question regarding the ARC-1. I recently sold my AVM50 and purchased a D2. Does the ARC setup take into account room acoustics in terms of echo/delay? My system is in a room with some glass, hardwood floors and drywall. Unfortunately, I just don't have enough furniture or room accents (yet) to help deaden the sound. Therefore, the room has an open, echoey feel to it.
> 
> 
> Does ARC sense this when taking measurements and can the system attempt to somewhat compensate for room echo?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Satish Tummala



The room will sound better than before with ARC but it will not affect the echoey feel of your room. RT60 or room reverberation is a function of the travel of sound from its initial response until the sound drops 60dB. A good listening room should have an RT60 from 125 to 4000hz. of around .3 to .6 seconds.


In short, there is no shortcut to an acoustical solution(baffles, basstrap, diffusers).


----------



## Mr. Foo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greyflag* /forum/post/17958186
> 
> 
> Re: AVM 50 ARC "hiss" when changing sources:
> 
> 
> Anthem has offered to replace my DSP and converter board. (DAC/ADC). I'll post results when it takes place.
> 
> 
> Best of luck Bob!



Glad they responded to you.


As for me, I have sent *3 emails to them over the past week with nary a single response*. Is there some magic way to get there attention on this? I sent the email both using the website form and directly using the address listed in the first post in this thread.


Very aggravated by this. Very aggravated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mr. Foo* /forum/post/18018035
> 
> 
> Glad they responded to you.
> 
> 
> As for me, I have sent *3 emails to them over the past week with nary a single response*. Is there some magic way to get there attention on this? I sent the email both using the website form and directly using the address listed in the first post in this thread.
> 
> 
> Very aggravated by this. Very aggravated.



My recommendation: If you have a question or want to report a possible bug to be helpful, send them an email. If you have a broken unit, given them a call. You may have to leave a message, but you'll get a response faster.


As with any tech support operation, sometimes it just gets busy....

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18000799
> 
> 
> I have a Runco PlasmaWall 61DHD display. Before I installed the D2v, the Runco DHD did all the scaling and processing with it's Vivix II processor.
> 
> 
> I now have all my video sources going to the Anthem instead of the Runco. I now output the Anthem directly to the Runco 61" display instead of it's DHD scalar. The display's native resolution is 1365x768p.
> 
> 
> I have three questions:
> 
> 
> 1. Should I expect the VXP chip in the Anthem to do a better processing job than the 5 year old design of the Vivix II chip?
> 
> 
> 2. What resolution should I specify for the video output of the D2v? Auto and 1920x1080i60 both work, 1366x768p60 doesn't work.
> 
> 
> 3. Should I specify my native resolution in the LVSE instead of using the two above?



First try 1360x768p/60 from the D2v. Some 768p displays will accept that and just leave a thin strip of pixels black on each side.


Setting up a full custom video resolution using LVSE can be a chore unless you know the pixel timing your display really wants. Sometimes you can find that in the discussion threads for the stand-alone video processors. That's just how this problem was solved for the odd timings needed for some Panasonic 768p panels a couple years back. There's some discussion about that case to be found in the post links collected in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/17999645
> 
> 
> I recently did another ARC measurement and upload for my Anthem D2 w/ 1.33. I'm not sure if it caused the following problem, but now I don't receive any audio while using the hdmi cable for SD on the Oppo 983. It works fine with the Oppo BD 83. I swapped the hdmi cable out on the 983 and I got the same result. If I use a coax or optical cable I get audio. I'm using an Oppo BD-83 for BD and an Oppo 983 for SD. I went this route to save time of not using frame lock. My settings are about the same except for the Video # and the Scaler #. The settings are: audio in: hdmi, Auto Dig: no,
> 
> Hdmi Map: auto, Room EQ: On. Of course I only get audio after making the change in the setup for either coax or optical. It seems strange that the audio works for bd but not sd with the hdmi cable. I should add that the settings in the 983's setup are: hdmi: lpcm, Digital Output: RAW, LPCM Rate: 96k.
> 
> 
> My other question is: If I want either the Oppo-83 BD or the Oppo-983 SD to do the scaling rather than the Anthem how do I set this up? It seems that the Anthem is always doing the scaling. On the Oppo 983 SD if I set the player at 1080p the Anthem shows 1080p in the display but it blinks a Magenta color approx. every 10 sec. If I put it at 480p everything is ok but the Anthem display says 480p also so I doubt if it's upcoverting to 1080p as set up in the Anthem's menu.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any solutions,
> 
> Ken



I haven't used a 983 so I'm not familiar with it's menus. But is is unusual to set an SD-DVD player to use HDMI LPCM output for SD discs. Typically you would set it to use HDMI Bitstream output -- meaning it would send DD5.1 and DTS tracks over to the D2 for decoding in the D2. CD playback would come over as stereo LPCM regardless of course.


For playing multi-channel audio (SACD or DVD-Audio) discs you would use HDMI LPCM to the D2. You also need to make sure your HDMI video output resolution from the player is 720p or higher while doing this so that the HDMI audio signal is alloted enough space inside the HDMI video signal.


Typically you would only set an SD player to HDMI LPCM output for SD-DVD disc playback if it is directly connected to a TV and you want to use the stereo speakers built into the TV.


I suspect your problem is related to your HDMI audio output settings in the 983.


---------------------------------------------


Your problem with video is suggestive of an HDMI cable problem. If it works OK with 1080i from the player but not with 1080p then you probably need to upgrade your HDMI cable and/or make sure the HDMI plugs are fully inserted straight into the sockets with no shifting caused by cable weight or otherwise. The magenta flashing you are describing is probably HDMI retries due to the signal not making it cleanly across your cable.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/17998614
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> For some days now I've been experiencing a relatively soft buzzing sound from 3 channels, namely, front left, left surround and center. I've tried locating the cause of this problem and have found that my D2 is the source. If the mute button is on, the 3 speakers beep clearly in timing with the blinking panel display.
> 
> 
> I'm using firmware v1.33 with ARC.
> 
> 
> If Bob, or any of you guys, can shed any light on the possible cause of this problem, I shall be very grateful. Many thanks.
> 
> 
> Ben



Give Anthem tech support a call.


If you want to try something while you are waiting, disconnect ALL of your source devices (don't simply power them off) and see if the problem goes away when you mute a now not-connected input. If so, then your problem may be a "ground loop" -- garbage coming in over the cable shields of your other equipment. A poorly grounded cable or satellite TV feed wire is often the culprit.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18018189
> 
> 
> I haven't used a 983 so I'm not familiar with it's menus. But is is unusual to set an SD-DVD player to use HDMI LPCM output for SD discs. Typically you would set it to use HDMI Bitstream output -- meaning it would send DD5.1 and DTS tracks over to the D2 for decoding in the D2. CD playback would come over as stereo LPCM regardless of course.
> 
> 
> For playing multi-channel audio (SACD or DVD-Audio) discs you would use HDMI LPCM to the D2. You also need to make sure your HDMI video output resolution from the player is 720p or higher while doing this so that the HDMI audio signal is alloted enough space inside the HDMI video signal.
> 
> 
> Typically you would only set an SD player to HDMI LPCM output for SD-DVD disc playback if it is directly connected to a TV and you want to use the stereo speakers built into the TV.
> 
> 
> 
> I suspect your problem is related to your HDMI audio output settings in the 983.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Your problem with video is suggestive of an HDMI cable problem. If it works OK with 1080i from the player but not with 1080p then you probably need to upgrade your HDMI cable and/or make sure the HDMI plugs are fully inserted straight into the sockets with no shifting caused by cable weight or otherwise. The magenta flashing you are describing is probably HDMI retries due to the signal not making it cleanly across your cable.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the advice Bob. I was on the Oppo website and saw that there were a couple of upgrades that I missed so I downloaded and installed the latest and the audio suddenly came across the hdmi cable. I'll take your advice on the settings. Thanks.

I've tried 2 different 3' hdmi cables from monoprice and I get the same results. I set both the 983 and the D2 to 1080P and I get the flashing color. If I set the 983 to 1080i then it's ok. The projector is the JVC RS20 so it's capable of the 1080p setting. I'm wondering what determines which signal is sent to the proj. It's not like the signal from either source can be shut off so how do you know which component is doing the video processing?


Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18019000
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice Bob. I was on the Oppo website and saw that there were a couple of upgrades that I missed so I downloaded and installed the latest and the audio suddenly came across the hdmi cable. I'll take your advice on the settings. Thanks.
> 
> I've tried 2 different 3' hdmi cables from monoprice and I get the same results. I set both the 983 and the D2 to 1080P and I get the flashing color. If I set the 983 to 1080i then it's ok. The projector is the JVC RS20 so it's capable of the 1080p setting. I'm wondering what determines which signal is sent to the proj. It's not like the signal from either source can be shut off so how do you know which component is doing the video processing?
> 
> 
> Ken



Since you are not getting problems using the 83 at 1080p, the cable to your projector is probably good.


That means you may just need to take some steps to simplify the handshaking that the 983 is doing. Set the 983 to send YCbCr 4:4:4 to the D2 (instead of an Auto setting). In the D2's Source Setup definition for that input, check that Auto Dig is set to NO. In the D2's Video Output configuration check that Data is set to an explicit setting instead of Auto. Typically you would use YCbCr 4:4:4. Turning off these Auto functions simplifies things.


There's one hardware check you can also make. The D2 uses distinct HDMI input chips for HDMI inputs 1&2 and for 3&4. Try moving the 983 to a D2 input jack that uses the other chip and see if 1080p input suddenly starts working. If so, you may need hardware service on your D2 video board.


There is also newer, "test" firmware for the D2 -- V1.47f. Not all D2 production runs can use that firmware. If you look through the top vents of your D2 and discover that your video board (the top board right under the vents) is red in color, *OR* if you can see that your power supply does NOT have the big toroidal (donut shaped) transformer, then your D2 can definitely handle this "test" firmware. If your video board is colored green or gray *AND* your power supply has the donut shaped transformer, then your D2 MIGHT be OK with this firmware but there's no easy way for you to tell, so best not to try.


That test firmware has HDMI code improvements.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I just got my D2v (replacing my D2) a few days a go (yeah, yeah, I know, I know, thank you, thank you) so after a few runs and ARC modif I decided to upgrade my multi-channel amp too.

So I will part from my 5 X 100w TagMcLaren for a new Anthem Statement A5.

It will only feed my center, surround and surround back channels.

So my question for owners of the same configuration is what XLR (balanced) cables do you use? and why?

I have a month + to make my choice and that is not much.

So please I need your advise.


Thank you


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18020066
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I just got my D2v (replacing my D2) a few days a go (yeah, yeah, I know, I know, thank you, thank you) so after a few runs and ARC modif I decided to upgrade my multi-channel amp too.
> 
> So I will part from my 5 X 100w TagMcLaren for a new Anthem Statement A5.
> 
> It will only feed my center, surround and surround back channels.
> 
> So my question for owners of the same configuration is what XLR (balanced) cables do you use? and why?
> 
> I have a month + to make my choice and that is not much.
> 
> So please I need your advise.
> 
> 
> Thank you



I'm happy with Nordost Valhalla/TYR in my system


erikno


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/18020258
> 
> 
> I'm happy with Nordost Valhalla/TYR in my system
> 
> 
> erikno



Noted! Thanks


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18019000
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice Bob. I was on the Oppo website and saw that there were a couple of upgrades that I missed so I downloaded and installed the latest and the audio suddenly came across the hdmi cable. I'll take your advice on the settings. Thanks.
> 
> I've tried 2 different 3' hdmi cables from monoprice and I get the same results. I set both the 983 and the D2 to 1080P and I get the flashing color. If I set the 983 to 1080i then it's ok. The projector is the JVC RS20 so it's capable of the 1080p setting. I'm wondering what determines which signal is sent to the proj. It's not like the signal from either source can be shut off so how do you know which component is doing the video processing?
> 
> 
> Ken



i have the same PJ and a monoprice switcher & 3' cables (the $4.99 ones)

i found they will not support 1080p (1080i is OK) even tho they are sold as HDMI 1.3a - my BD player wouldn't produce any picture with the monoproice cable

try another HDMI cable just to check


mark


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18020066
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I just got my D2v (replacing my D2) a few days a go (yeah, yeah, I know, I know, thank you, thank you) so after a few runs and ARC modif I decided to upgrade my multi-channel amp too.
> 
> So I will part from my 5 X 100w TagMcLaren for a new Anthem Statement A5.
> 
> It will only feed my center, surround and surround back channels.
> 
> So my question for owners of the same configuration is what XLR (balanced) cables do you use? and why?
> 
> I have a month + to make my choice and that is not much.
> 
> So please I need your advise.
> 
> 
> Thank you



Blue Jeans. I'm not a believer in the fancy cable stuff.

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/...udio/index.htm


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/18020335
> 
> 
> Blue Jeans. I'm not a believer in the fancy cable stuff.
> 
> http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/...udio/index.htm




+1 on that, and Monoprice offers some very good quality XLR's as well... they looked plasticy on the website, but they are very nice metal ends and well built, not sure one could need better.


No question that when I installed the D2v and switched from RCA to the XLR's that any noise that was present in my system was eliminated. Thank goodness


http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...02&cp_id=10244


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18020285
> 
> 
> i have the same PJ and a monoprice switcher & 3' cables (the $4.99 ones)
> 
> i found they will not support 1080p (1080i is OK) even tho they are sold as HDMI 1.3a - my BD player wouldn't produce any picture with the monoproice cable
> 
> try another HDMI cable just to check
> 
> 
> mark



I would suspect the Monoprice switcher before their cables. People I know generally like the Oppo switcher much better.


----------



## barrygordon

Since we are talking cables. I, being an electronics engineer (digital hardware and software) who has been around a long time (70 years), do not put that much credibility in the marketing hype of "High end cables"; espcially digital ones and speaker wire.


My System is wired with cables from monoprice and I genrally use their mid price range, but often use the less expensive ones. With regard to HDMI cables, the run between the 50v and the JVC RS-2 Projector is 35 feet. The run between the VuDu player and the 50v is 6 feet, the run between the DVDO Edgae and the 50v is 12 feet, and the run between the Bluray changer and the 50v is 12 feet.


The 50v, STB's, and VuDu player are on full extension slide out shelves with the cables (all of them) anchored to the shelf in the rear with about 6 inches of free play. If the HDMI cable is a heavier gauge (e.g. the one to the Projector) I add a 6 inch extension cable between the heavy main cable and the connector on the component to eliminate any strain. The main cable is the one anchored to the shelf.


I get a flawless display, no sparklies, no dropouts, no breakups except when the source is an STB and there is a transmission hiccup. I have proven this to myself by using the DVR or storage buffers on the STB and observing that the hiccup is repeatable at the exact same point in the transmission.


One of my inputs is a DVDO edge with nothing connected to it as I had it before I bought the Anthem. I use its excellent test patterns to check things out. It actually is an inexpensive test generator. One of the patterns is alternating vertical (there is also a horizontal and a cross hatch) lines one pixel wide alternating between black and white. These three patterns allow for quick checkout to see if the display and the 50v HDMI output are in a 1:1 pixel match (they are).


----------



## Kensmith48

Bob,

Thanks again, I think I'm using most of your recommended video settings already that I read about in a previous post but I'll double check.

Mark,

Thanks for the tip about the cable. I'll re-install the Oppo cable that came with the 983 and see how that goes. The monoprice cables I'm using are the 28AWG hdmi 1.3 w/ Ferrite cores at $3.56 each.


I'm going to be busy today and tomorrow so I can't do anything until Saturday but I'll post and share my results.


Thanks,

Ken


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/18020556
> 
> 
> I would suspect the Monoprice switcher before their cables. People I know generally like the Oppo switcher much better.



the monoprice switcher has it's own problems - i get a pink flash every few minutes, but this was after changing the 1m HDMI cable

if i bypass the switcher & use a 7m cable directly to the PJ everything is fine


mark


getting a D2v soon so all my problems will be solved...


----------



## programmergeek

Blue jeans cables are great. I have tried everything. Most people with a d2v blue jeans cables will match well and doesn't break the bank I use them on my sub and hdmi to my projector. overall all they are smooth sounding and very rounded. I also have the audioquest high end hdmi cables and the pic is a bit chrisper I don't know why can't explain it, it shouldn't be it is a digital signal. For speakers and innerconnects in my 2 ch I use kimber select, big difference in sound but I also don't use the D2v in that set up. It is all about getting cables that complment the equipnment and plays nicely. I beleve there is a huge difference in cables but you need the set up and ear to hear it. Just because it is $$$ doesn't mean it will match your system and sound the best. For some it may not make a difference for others it will.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18018227
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> 
> If you want to try something while you are waiting, disconnect ALL of your source devices (don't simply power them off) and see if the problem goes away when you mute a now not-connected input. If so, then your problem may be a "ground loop" -- garbage coming in over the cable shields of your other equipment. A poorly grounded cable or satellite TV feed wire is often the culprit.
> 
> --Bob



It's good to see you back, Bob.


I disconnected all the source devices one by one (D2 muted). When the last one was disconnected, the buzz and beep were still there. As a last resort, I started disconnecting the power amps (monos) with only the fronts left on, and hit paydirt with the LS. The buzz disappeared. Am not sure right now, but I believe it's a faulty interconnect. Strange that the buzz and beep only affected 3 speakers.


Thank you very much for your help.

Ben


----------



## jayray

I'm curious what diff. there is using XLR compared to the usual cables.

John


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18022428
> 
> 
> I'm curious what diff. there is using XLR compared to the usual cables.
> 
> John



Reduced chances of interference. For most people, it will have no effect. But given the low-cost of XLR cables, if you can use them (i.e. have an amp and pre-pro that both support balanced XLR), then why not use them?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/18022465
> 
> 
> Reduced chances of interference. For most people, it will have no effect. But given the low-cost of XLR cables, if you can use them (i.e. have an amp and pre-pro that both support balanced XLR), then why not use them?



thanks for the response. Will look into it. I have the D2v and A2, A5 from Anthem.

John


----------



## Milt99

xtrips, etal, re: XLRs


I bought the best Belden cable and Neutrik connectors, which turned out to be the same as what Bluejeans uses in their XLR terminated cables, and made my own interconnects.


FWIW, Neutrik has since introduced solderless XLRs which would make terminating the cable a whole lot simpler.


My D2 is about 25 cable feet from my amp that drives the L\\C\\R speakers.

My A5 that drives my side and rear surrounds is about 5 cable feet from the D2.

Sounds great to me.

I went with XLR because of the distance to the one amp and because I like the positive connection they make.


In reality, I doubt I could hear the difference but it's like why not?


To anyone with a smidgen of DIY inclination, save yourself some serious dough and make your own. It isn't rocket surgery by any stretch.


----------



## jayray

Would you recommend using an XLR to my sub, as well, which is about 16 ft. from my D2v.

John


----------



## jayray

Just checked Monoprice and am assuming the correct XLR is a male to female Premier Series 16 AWG. http://www.monoprice.com/products/se...sp?keyword=xlr to xlr

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18022338
> 
> 
> It's good to see you back, Bob.
> 
> 
> I disconnected all the source devices one by one (D2 muted). When the last one was disconnected, the buzz and beep were still there. As a last resort, I started disconnecting the power amps (monos) with only the fronts left on, and hit paydirt with the LS. The buzz disappeared. Am not sure right now, but I believe it's a faulty interconnect. Strange that the buzz and beep only affected 3 speakers.
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for your help.
> 
> Ben



It could be a faulty cable shield on that interconnect or faulty grounding of the jack at one end. Again my thinking is that you have some garbage coming in on the cable shield -- a type of ground loop. It could even be a real ground loop (voltage potential difference between wall power ground at the Anthem and wall power ground at the amp). I'm not sure why the "mute" graphic being on would make things more sensitive, but ground loops show up in mysterious ways.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18022428
> 
> 
> I'm curious what diff. there is using XLR compared to the usual cables.
> 
> John



XLR cables carry the same signal twice -- biased either side of ground. They are combined at the receiving end and the idea is that any interference which entered the signal along the length of the cable will be automatically canceled because it will affect both signal paths identically and will just subtract itself out when they are combined.


They are used in professional studios because of extra long cable runs and lots and lots of sources of interference.


For home theater setups there is little practical advantage between XLR and a reasonably well made, shielded RCA cable. The shielding on modern cables is perfectly adequate for dealing with the sources of interference typically encountered in a home theater.


All that said it is undeniable that XLR cables look cool and have a satisfying tactile feel when attached. The appearance factor can be a big deal if you like to show off your equipment rack for example. So using them could be just a matter of taste as well as, perhaps, a little placebo effect, urh, I meant peace of mind re signal interference.


Keep in mind that XLR and RCA cables, by design, carry 6dB different volume. So if you MIX the two types you will need to account for that in your speaker volume trims unless your amps have an input level selector switch that does that for you.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/18023139
> 
> 
> xtrips, etal, re: XLRs
> 
> 
> I bought the best Belden cable and Neutrik connectors, which turned out to be the same as what Bluejeans uses in their XLR terminated cables, and made my own interconnects.
> 
> 
> FWIW, Neutrik has since introduced solderless XLRs which would make terminating the cable a whole lot simpler.
> 
> 
> My D2 is about 25 cable feet from my amp that drives the L\\C\\R speakers.
> 
> My A5 that drives my side and rear surrounds is about 5 cable feet from the D2.
> 
> Sounds great to me.
> 
> I went with XLR because of the distance to the one amp and because I like the positive connection they make.
> 
> 
> In reality, I doubt I could hear the difference but it's like why not?
> 
> 
> To anyone with a smidgen of DIY inclination, save yourself some serious dough and make your own. It isn't rocket surgery by any stretch.



Same here, Belden cables and Neutrik or Amphenol XLR terminals are the way to go. I can custom cut the lenght of the cable so that they would look neat. I would not use single ended RCA cables for more than 6ft. One of my subs is 30ft away from the 50v, I would not use an RCA with such distance.


There are even foil type XLR cables from Belden that reduces RF by another 20dB compared with regular rubber insulated varieties. With XLR you are sure that the signal gets into the other end and nothing is introduced in between.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18023282
> 
> 
> Just checked Monoprice and am assuming the correct XLR is a male to female Premier Series 16 AWG. http://www.monoprice.com/products/se...sp?keyword=xlr to xlr
> 
> John




Any of those Microphone cables will work perfectly jayray..


just get the length you need and all should be fine for D2v to Amp...


----------



## jayray

thanks to all who provided info on XLR cables. Always appreciated.

John


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18020066
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I just got my D2v (replacing my D2) a few days a go (yeah, yeah, I know, I know, thank you, thank you) so after a few runs and ARC modif I decided to upgrade my multi-channel amp too.
> 
> So I will part from my 5 X 100w TagMcLaren for a new Anthem Statement A5.
> 
> It will only feed my center, surround and surround back channels.
> 
> So my question for owners of the same configuration is what XLR (balanced) cables do you use? and why?
> 
> I have a month + to make my choice and that is not much.
> 
> So please I need your advise.
> 
> 
> Thank you



I use Audioquest Columbia XLR cables. Got a fantastic deal on them and they sound great to my ears. I'm using an A5 matched to an AVM 50v.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18020285
> 
> 
> i have the same PJ and a monoprice switcher & 3' cables (the $4.99 ones)
> 
> i found they will not support 1080p (1080i is OK) even tho they are sold as HDMI 1.3a - my BD player wouldn't produce any picture with the monoproice cable
> 
> try another HDMI cable just to check
> 
> 
> mark



I have tried the monoprice HDMI cables and they support 1080p fine for my rig. I am using them to connect the Satellite STB and a Pioneer 09FD BluRay player to the D2V. They replaced $200 HDMI monster cables with no perceivable difference. I still have the monster HDMI cable going from the D2V to the plasma panel.


As stated earlier, it might be the switcher.


HTH,

Tim


----------



## Michaelmorio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18024135
> 
> 
> XLR cables carry the same signal twice -- biased either side of ground. They are combined at the receiving end and the idea is that any interference which entered the signal along the length of the cable will be automatically canceled because it will affect both signal paths identically and will just subtract itself out when they are combined.
> 
> 
> They are used in professional studios because of extra long cable runs and lots and lots of sources of interference.
> 
> 
> For home theater setups there is little practical advantage between XLR and a reasonably well made, shielded RCA cable. The shielding on modern cables is perfectly adequate for dealing with the sources of interference typically encountered in a home theater.
> 
> 
> All that said it is undeniable that XLR cables look cool and have a satisfying tactile feel when attached. The appearance factor can be a big deal if you like to show off your equipment rack for example. So using them could be just a matter of taste as well as, perhaps, a little placebo effect, urh, I meant peace of mind re signal interference.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that XLR and RCA cables, by design, carry 6dB different volume. So if you MIX the two types you will need to account for that in your speaker volume trims unless your amps have an input level selector switch that does that for you.
> 
> --Bob



I have heard of the output difference between the XLR and the RCA cables. If the XLR really outputs 6 db more than the RCA, for the same power wattage from a AVR it means you can drive the speakers much louder with the XLR than the RCA and the difference is A LOT. It means the XLR makes 90 db rated speakers into 96 db rated ones!!! Does it make the 6-db difference in a real world? If so, going with the XRL will give you an incredible sound QUANTITY difference more than sound Quality difference. If so that will be a great reason to choose the XLR over the RCA. Am I right?


A little bit off topic.


Michaelmorio


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michaelmorio* /forum/post/18025633
> 
> 
> I have heard of the output difference between the XLR and the RCA cables. If the XLR really outputs 6 db more than the RCA, for the same power wattage from a AVR it means you can drive the speakers much louder with the XLR than the RCA and the difference is A LOT. It means the XLR makes 90 db rated speakers into 96 db rated ones!!! Does it make the 6-db difference in a real world? If so, going with the XRL will give you an incredible sound QUANTITY difference more than sound Quality difference. If so that will be a great reason to choose the XLR over the RCA. Am I right?



No. Once the channels are calibrated, it makes no difference whether the signal is carried single ended or balanced. The speakers' capabilities, and that of the amps driving them, are exactly the same either way.


"This one goes to 11."


----------



## lalarsons




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18020066
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I just got my D2v (replacing my D2) a few days a go (yeah, yeah, I know, I know, thank you, thank you) so after a few runs and ARC modif I decided to upgrade my multi-channel amp too.
> 
> So I will part from my 5 X 100w TagMcLaren for a new Anthem Statement A5.
> 
> It will only feed my center, surround and surround back channels.
> 
> So my question for owners of the same configuration is what XLR (balanced) cables do you use? and why?
> 
> I have a month + to make my choice and that is not much.
> 
> So please I need your advise.
> 
> 
> Thank you



I decided to go Kimber Hero balanced XLR between our D2/A5 to reduce the possibility for any line interference (3M). One side benefit was an improved low end performance with Magneplanars. ARC made BIGGER improvements....could not be happier with the evolution of our HTS the past years since going Anthem.


----------



## Macu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/17982349
> 
> 
> Seems your 350VA transformer ought to be sufficient for a 170W product. Easy to tell if you have an AC voltmeter, and some nerve.



I do have voltmeter, but do I have nerve... hmm, not death wish anyway (for me or D2). So can you elaborate?


----------



## xtrips

Hello all,


I am glad I opened the debate. Thanks to you I made my decision and went for Blue Jeans. You probably saved me a lots of $$$.

It's hard for an "audiophile" believer (indoctrinated???) like me to take such steps (the rest of my cables are truly a rip off).

It reminds me when I had to decide whereas to abandon my fine stereo pre-amp and re-attach my stereo system and my multi-channel system centered around the D2.

I couldn't bear the idea that a "computer" like the D2 would do a better job than my beloved pre-amp.

All false ideas and dreams, the D2 squashed the pre-amp.

And today I found myself with the same dilemmas about the cables.

I did the right thing, I am sure as many of you I regard with high esteem.


Thanks


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18024082
> 
> 
> It could be a faulty cable shield on that interconnect or faulty grounding of the jack at one end. Again my thinking is that you have some garbage coming in on the cable shield -- a type of ground loop. It could even be a real ground loop (voltage potential difference between wall power ground at the Anthem and wall power ground at the amp). I'm not sure why the "mute" graphic being on would make things more sensitive, but ground loops show up in mysterious ways.
> 
> --Bob



I'll let you know whether it's the power amp or the interconnect that's causing the problem when I can bring myself to take a closer look. Right now, I'm just happy to have things back to normal again.


Tell me, Bob, or for that matter, anyone out there, do you remember your speakers beeping when Mute is On with your D2? Or when you turn the volume knob?


Ben


----------



## ninja12

I have my D2 connected to my JVC RS35 via HDMI and the Oppo connected to the D2 via HDMI. I have Video Config #2 setup for 24fps. I have played several blu-rays, Terminator Salvation, Transformers (ROTF), Master and Commander, and I have noticed lip sync issues. The only movie that I have played using 24fps that did not have lip sync issues was Live Free Or Die Hard. So, is this really a problem with the movie and not the equipment since Live Free Or Die Hard played without any problems? Also, is there a way to tell when a movie should be watched using 24fps. BTW, the movies that did have a problem with 24fps played just fine when I switched back to 60fps.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Macu* /forum/post/18026627
> 
> 
> I do have voltmeter, but do I have nerve... hmm, not death wish anyway (for me or D2). So can you elaborate?



If the Output of the stepdown transformer is holding the claimed output voltage into the D2 while powered on (and off--to see how much it changes), then it's not being overloaded--which would drop the voltage too far, presumably below the 108V minimum. The nerve comes in when sticking the voltmeter probes into the AC socket. Must use proper tools and technique.


If the D2 powers up and the step-down has not popped an internal protection fuse, and is not overheating, I suspect the voltage output is fine.


By the way, can you also hear the D2 power supply buzz when it is in standby?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18026770
> 
> 
> I'll let you know whether it's the power amp or the interconnect that's causing the problem when I can bring myself to take a closer look. Right now, I'm just happy to have things back to normal again.
> 
> 
> Tell me, Bob, or for that matter, anyone out there, do you remember your speakers beeping when Mute is On with your D2? Or when you turn the volume knob?
> 
> 
> Ben



No, the D2 and now the D2v makes no such noise. It may be related to the fact that I have Mute set to produce silence instead of merely down 45dB or whatever.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

walt here. i have moved and added _sound stuff_ to the cave. the results follow.

arc pretty much corrects all ills, but, my question relates to the targets.

note the gain - imo, it is low. these last measurements were made in the room as we typically use it, with all eight chairs reclined, and folks eating popcorn. however, when i measure with the seats fully upright and locked, the gain jumps to 3.5+/-.(upright and devoid of popcorn eaters)

the question, at last is, how important IS gain?









THX.

Walt


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18021165
> 
> 
> ...getting a D2v soon so all my problems will be solved...



Guess again. You will be trading one set of HDMI issues for another set.
Pink screen
Green screen
Latent establishment of audio
No screen when switching inputs so try switching inputs again
Text configuration screen stops displaying so physically reboot (unplug and replug AC) to fix
...

So far, I am not thrilled with the D2V.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/18030933
> 
> 
> Guess again. You will be trading one set of HDMI issues for another set.
> Pink screen
> Green screen
> Latent establishment of audio
> No screen when switching inputs so try switching inputs again
> Text configuration screen stops displaying so physically reboot (unplug and replug AC) to fix
> ...
> 
> So far, I am not thrilled with the D2V.



While I do feel your pain, you're not suggesting it is a sure thing for all D2v users to expect this from their units? I do not experience any of your symptoms

and I'm not aware of many others who do. I hope your issues get resolved soon, it must be frustrating.









John


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/18029491
> 
> 
> walt here. i have moved and added _sound stuff_ to the cave. the results follow.
> 
> arc pretty much corrects all ills, but, my question relates to the targets.
> 
> note the gain - imo, it is low. these last measurements were made in the room as we typically use it, with all eight chairs reclined, and folks eating popcorn. however, when i measure with the seats fully upright and locked, the gain jumps to 3.5+/-.(upright and devoid of popcorn eaters)
> 
> the question, at last is, how important IS gain?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THX.
> 
> Walt



From lots of experimentation, I have concluded that RG is quite important even if ARC says it should be less than 1 in some cases, I always see what my LCR speakers can handle and factor as high as 4(3.99++). In your case you I think your frontstage speakers can handle a gain 0f 3.9. I would not go beyond 8 to 10khz in the max freq. box as there is an inherent dip on the response of the ARC mic and would probably make your speakers sound too bright.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/18030933
> 
> 
> Guess again. You will be trading one set of HDMI issues for another set.
> Pink screen
> Green screen
> Latent establishment of audio
> No screen when switching inputs so try switching inputs again
> Text configuration screen stops displaying so physically reboot (unplug and replug AC) to fix
> ...
> 
> So far, I am not thrilled with the D2V.



Maybe just the 3rd issue and none of the rest. I can live with that considering all the advantages of the Anthem's over other pre-pro. a minor hassle in my book.


But I do feel your frustration, hope they are solved as soon as possible.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18032104
> 
> 
> While I do feel your pain, you're not suggesting it is a sure thing for all D2v users to expect this from their units? I do not experience any of your symptoms
> 
> and I'm not aware of many others who do. I hope your issues get resolved soon, it must be frustrating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I am not the only one and I am not stating everyone has these problems. Others have reported and posted various HDMI issues if you search the forum. Some people have even suggested using component cables to avoid these HDMI issues. One reason why I purchased the D2V was to get rid of some of the extra cables by just using HDMI and XLR cables.


I don't mean to be critical, but I have been pushing HDMI cables for work for the past few years and have never had these problems between PC's, Flatscreens and STBs that I use on a daily basis. That is why I am less then pleased about what I am seeing with the D2V, especially when the other properly functioning HDMI products are a fraction of the cost.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/18032306
> 
> 
> I am not the only one and I am not stating everyone has these problems. Others have reported and posted various HDMI issues if you search the forum. Some people have even suggested using component cables to avoid these HDMI issues. One reason why I purchased the D2V was to get rid of some of the extra cables by just using HDMI and XLR cables.
> 
> 
> I don't mean to be critical, but I have been pushing HDMI cables for work for the past 3 years and have never had these problems between PC's, Flatscreens and STBs that I use on a daily basis. That is why I am less then pleased about what I am seeing with the D2V, especially when the other properly functioning HDMI products are a fraction of the cost.



I have 4 hdmi sources coming into my D2v and none have issues with syncing. Since the last two firmware upgrades ( 2.08 and 2.08a ) it doesn't matter what sequence I turn on any of my components, ie. pj then D2v then oppo or in reverse, no syncing issues. This is much better than what I had with my AVM 50 so there is progress. I know this doesn't make you feel any better but it must drive Anthem crazy too.

John


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18032382
> 
> 
> I have 4 hdmi sources coming into my D2v and none have issues with syncing. Since the last two firmware upgrades ( 2.08 and 2.08a ) it doesn't matter what sequence I turn on any of my components, ie. pj then D2v then oppo or in reverse, no syncing issues. This is much better than what I had with my AVM 50 so there is progress. I know this doesn't make you feel any better but it must drive Anthem crazy too.
> 
> John



I am anxiously awaiting the next software release. I hope it will address the HDMI issues and the provide Dolby Volume feature.


I can understand protocol idiosyncrasies between consumer electronics devices. Not every manufacturer implements the spec the same way and sometimes the spec is insufficient in of itself causing conflicts between implementations.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I can't stress too much the importance of cables in this HDMI stuff. Both cable quality and the mechanical fit of plugs into sockets without the plug being stressed in any direction.


I was just working with someone who discovered he had red vertical pin lines appearing in horizontal gray scale ramps. He was using a top quality, 50 foot cable to his projector. We learned that the red pin lines only appeared when he sent 1080p/60 to the projector -- not when he sent 1080p/24 for example. This means the problem had to be a signal bandwidth problem.


As it turns out he only really needed a 35 foot cable run. When he replaced his 50 foot cable with a 35 foot cable (same quality cable from Blue Jeans) those red pin lines went away!


I've never seen anything quite like it. He wasn't getting "sparklies" or other typical symptoms of data loss, but he just couldn't get 1080p/60 to go reliably across that 50 foot cable (or a spare 50 foot cable he also tried).


I'm still waiting to hear if his HDMI handshakes also work more reliably with the 35 foot cable. I suspect they will.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Awhile back I mentioned the new HDCD Decoding option in the latest Oppo player firmware and recommended that folks using an Oppo with an Anthem processor should turn that on.


I've recently learned there is a bit of a gotcha in that. To get the proper effect of HDCD Decoding ON when playing HDCD discs, you must set the Oppo output to HDMI Audio LPCM. HDMI Audio Bitstream, or HDMI Audio Auto, will not give you the desired result when playing HDCD discs (the disc will play as if it was a traditional CD instead).


This will be corrected in future Oppo firmware.

--Bob


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/18030933
> 
> 
> Guess again. You will be trading one set of HDMI issues for another set.
> Pink screen
> Green screen
> Latent establishment of audio
> No screen when switching inputs so try switching inputs again
> Text configuration screen stops displaying so physically reboot (unplug and replug AC) to fix
> ...
> 
> So far, I am not thrilled with the D2V.



my tongue was firmly planted in my cheek

old problems gone, new problems here we come...


mark


----------



## esander3

Anyone out there using serial control of their Anthem? I just ordered a Pronto TSU9400 and would love some advice, or even your remote file if you are willing. Thanks.



Ed


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/18030933
> 
> 
> Guess again. You will be trading one set of HDMI issues for another set.
> Pink screen
> Green screen
> Latent establishment of audio
> No screen when switching inputs so try switching inputs again
> Text configuration screen stops displaying so physically reboot (unplug and replug AC) to fix
> ...
> 
> So far, I am not thrilled with the D2V.



These are the exact same issues I had before swapping out cables as stated by Bob... as well as making sure the proper alignment of the sockets as you and I had discussed over the phone... I know you have been working with these types of connections in your industry and never had issues, I can't for the life of me understand why Anthems HDMI sockets are so touchy, but I have 5 inputs going to my D2v and I experience no problems like this at all after making the appropriate cable changes to high bandwidth deep color HDMI cables....


I understand that you have felt that your cables were up to par, you have Monster Cables correct? Have you made any attempt to try swapping them out.... The Mono Price cables are extremely inexpensive and IMO worth the effort to change them out? What are we talking here - $30 to $40, I would imagine that you could return them if you notice no change - Personally I wouldn't trust the Monster Cables for standing up to what was printed on the package...


----------



## davoe

I've been trading emails with Anthem and they really don't recommend extending the frequency beyond 5kHz unless all your speakers' tweeters are all aligned at ear level, which for me is 36". Other factors also enter into the equation. This is because the omnidirectional microphone gets pretty directional at higher frequencies.


I decided to use Google images and check out some omnidirectional microphone polar plots and was amazed to find how quickly they become directional after 5kHz regardless of brand.


While, ultimately, we should make decisions based on the sound we get from the ARC settings, unless you can really hear a difference, sticking to the 5k limit is probably a good idea.....what you may see in the corrected plots may not be what's really going on because of mike error.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18034514
> 
> 
> I've been trading emails with Anthem and they really don't recommend extending the frequency beyond 5kHz unless all your speakers' tweeters are all aligned at ear level, which for me is 36". Other factors also enter into the equation. This is because the omnidirectional microphone gets pretty directional at higher frequencies.
> 
> 
> I decided to use Google images and check out some omnidirectional microphone polar plots and was amazed to find how quickly they become directional after 5kHz regardless of brand.
> 
> 
> While, ultimately, we should make decisions based on the sound we get from the ARC settings, unless you can really hear a difference, sticking to the 5k limit is probably a good idea.....what you may see in the corrected plots may not be what's really going on because of mike error.



I have done so many speaker movements and ARC measurements this week to the point I am seeing grid patterns when I close my eyes.







But seriously, I have now settled on 12500 Hz after using 20000 for a long time. My curves look the best they have ever looked and part of this is using a lower freq. correction range. I cannot tell any diff in loss of high freq. detail. I am using discs which I know very well and detail is still there. Lower frequencies are much better in particular voices. LFE is very tight and smooth at high dB ranges. Never sounded better. My speakers across the front are Paradigm studio 100s and CC 690 centre. Moving down below the 12500 range actually introduced more bumps in the correction curves at lower freq. This I don't understand.


John


----------



## davoe

If there is microphone error at 12.5kHz what you see as smooth curves in your ACR plots may be misleading and they're really not accurate.


Just a thought.


I'm going to return all my calculations to target and upload those. They sounded pretty good before I started fiddling.


----------



## Kensmith48

What is the point in getting the red line with ARC close to the plot points? Isn't that what ARC is supposed to do?


----------



## barrygordon

esander3,


I control my 50v fully through RS232. I use a PC to do it but am very familiar with the Pronto Pro and there is no reason why you could not do the same thing. The only tricky part would be if you wanted the Anthem to send unsolicited messages to the Pronto when things change. Pronto does not like to keep a port open forerver. But I guess you could open one for 60 seconds and when nothing came in open it again. ALL the communications sequencess are pure ASCII characters and they allow the "End of transmission" sequence to be either a carriage return or a semicolon.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/18034182
> 
> 
> Have you made any attempt to try swapping them out.... package...



I have tried the top of the line 2-meter Monster Cables (M1000HD, 1080p/120Hz, 12-bit deep color, @ $200 each) and the top of the MonoPrice cables (1-meter, 1.3a, Category 2, inwall rated). I haven't seen the Green/Pink screens in a while, but I have been experiencing the other items










The monster cables were working fine between my previous hardware.


Loosing the onscreen text configuration menu display sounds like a software bug. Video passed through fine, but when I would press and hold the [SUB-LFE] button, the screen would go black and the text config menu would only appear on the front of the D2V. If I back out of the menu structure, the screen returns returns to the video source. If I physically unplug and replug the AC to the D2V, the text configuration menu starts displaying onscreen again. Cables were never touched during this operation.


P.S. I am not a fan of MonsterCable either, but it was readily available when I bought some of the other gear.


----------



## Warpdrv

Gotcha... I found the most of any of my issues with HDMI (almost all the issues you listed) came from the output cable to my display, If I was working behind my console for any reason and I disturbed this cable - I saw an issue, and I would walk back there and fix it, no more problem. Sounds like you are experiencing some firmware issues, which is the reason I have not bothered to upgrade my firmware at all (2.04) everything works perfectly for me, so why bother.... I am also waiting patiently for Dolby Volume - at which time I will wait for others to test it and post results before I jump right in...




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/18035164
> 
> 
> The monster cables were working fine between my previous hardware.



Was this before you were pushing 1080p after upscaling and TrueHD audio?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18035055
> 
> 
> What is the point in getting the red line with ARC close to the plot points? Isn't that what ARC is supposed to do?



The less correction ARC needs to do, the better the results.


If you can do simple things to make the red Measured curves look better, then it is worth the effort. This would include playing with subwoofer positioning and speaker pointing for example.


In addition, sometimes errors that show up in the red Measured curves indicate that you have a problem in one of your speakers -- e.g., a blown driver. Clearly you want to fix those.

--Bob


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/18035301
> 
> 
> Was this before you were pushing 1080p after upscaling and TrueHD audio?



Warpdrv,


I was transmitting all video formats between my source and flatscreens [480p, 720p, 1080i, 1080p(24/60)]. I alpha/beta tested some initial content transmission, reception and displays for 1080p satellite content. The only time when the HDMI didn't work is when the particular flat panel did not support the format being tested.


I was decoding TrueHD in the source units and then using 7.1 analog output/inputs to the amps. I questioned this approach on this forum before buying the D2V and it was generally frowned on. The general response was to use HDMI and let the Pre/Pro do the decoding.


So far, all of the issues are easily resolved, either re-switch inputs, wait, or do the Microsoft solution and reboot (but not as often).









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NoGbLI3ePA


----------



## JimmyTango

Hi,


i just picked up a Statement D1 that i am demoing for the next few weeks to see if i like it. So far, I am very impressed.


I have two issues to iron out. First is lipsync issues(I run the HDMI from the Oppo 83 and DTV HDDVR directly to the TV), audio to the Statement D1 digital coax and 5.1. Will just need to keep tweaking.


The second issue is one that is really starting to drive me nuts. The volume control on the remote. using either the factory or harmony 880, the volume is insanely sensitive. i have had just a quick tap on the volume, i had it skip up 15 DB. Is there a way to turn this down in the menu system? Since it is happening with both the harmony and factory remote, and have now seen this mentioned in a few reviews, I am thinking it is an internal setting in the D1.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18035452
> 
> 
> The less correction ARC needs to do, the better the results.
> 
> 
> If you can do simple things to make the red Measured curves look better, then it is worth the effort. This would include playing with subwoofer positioning and speaker pointing for example.
> 
> 
> In addition, sometimes errors that show up in the red Measured curves indicate that you have a problem in one of your speakers -- e.g., a blown driver. Clearly you want to fix those.
> 
> --Bob



This is exactly what I did by moving my speakers + sub. Nothing made as much of a diff as that. I tried bass traps but moving them another 1.5 ft from back wall fixed the major error in my measurements. Now ARC has a lot less work to do as you mentioned Bob. I should have tried this a long time ago.

John


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimmyTango* /forum/post/18035649
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> i just picked up a Statement D1 that i am demoing for the next few weeks to see if i like it. So far, I am very impressed.
> 
> 
> I have two issues to iron out. First is lipsync issues(I run the HDMI from the Oppo 83 and DTV HDDVR directly to the TV), audio to the Statement D1 digital coax and 5.1. Will just need to keep tweaking.
> 
> 
> The second issue is one that is really starting to drive me nuts. The volume control on the remote. using either the factory or harmony 880, the volume is insanely sensitive. i have had just a quick tap on the volume, i had it skip up 15 DB. Is there a way to turn this down in the menu system? Since it is happening with both the harmony and factory remote, and have now seen this mentioned in a few reviews, I am thinking it is an internal setting in the D1.



I have the D2, but I never had an issue with the Anthem remote, just my URC 950 being to sensitive. I had the same sentive issue with my JVC proj. and the Oppo remotes on certain things.


I used the learn function on the 950 and instead of holding down the button on the Anthem remote (or the other remotes,) I just tapped whatever button instead of holding it down and the 950 learned it and functions correctly.


Ken


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18034514
> 
> 
> I've been trading emails with Anthem and they really don't recommend extending the frequency beyond 5kHz unless all your speakers' tweeters are all aligned at ear level, which for me is 36". Other factors also enter into the equation. This is because the omnidirectional microphone gets pretty directional at higher frequencies.
> 
> 
> I decided to use Google images and check out some omnidirectional microphone polar plots and was amazed to find how quickly they become directional after 5kHz regardless of brand.
> 
> 
> While, ultimately, we should make decisions based on the sound we get from the ARC settings, unless you can really hear a difference, sticking to the 5k limit is probably a good idea.....what you may see in the corrected plots may not be what's really going on because of mike error.



My experience mirrors yours to a T, davoe.

Although I didn't contact Anthem, I read other white papers on room correction and did some serious, extended listening.

Boosting the correction to 20kHz resulted in blowing 2 ribbon tweeters in my center channel and nearly blowing a woofer in one of my rear surrounds.

In my system, extending the freq not only over boosted the high end, I firmly believe that it caused errors in the overall calculations and not just "tizzies" in the upper end.

FWIW, if people want to extend above 5kHz, I would suggest returning to the default after extended eval at extended setting and see how the 2 compare.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I have had a D1 for years. Do not remember seeing a setting for this. Do not have this problem either.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimmyTango* /forum/post/18035649
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> i just picked up a Statement D1 that i am demoing for the next few weeks to see if i like it. So far, I am very impressed.
> 
> 
> I have two issues to iron out. First is lipsync issues(I run the HDMI from the Oppo 83 and DTV HDDVR directly to the TV), audio to the Statement D1 digital coax and 5.1. Will just need to keep tweaking.
> 
> 
> The second issue is one that is really starting to drive me nuts. The volume control on the remote. using either the factory or harmony 880, the volume is insanely sensitive. i have had just a quick tap on the volume, i had it skip up 15 DB. Is there a way to turn this down in the menu system? Since it is happening with both the harmony and factory remote, and have now seen this mentioned in a few reviews, I am thinking it is an internal setting in the D1.


----------



## Macu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/18028861
> 
> 
> If the Output of the stepdown transformer is holding the claimed output voltage into the D2 while powered on (and off--to see how much it changes), then it's not being overloaded--which would drop the voltage too far, presumably below the 108V minimum. The nerve comes in when sticking the voltmeter probes into the AC socket. Must use proper tools and technique.
> 
> 
> If the D2 powers up and the step-down has not popped an internal protection fuse, and is not overheating, I suspect the voltage output is fine.
> 
> 
> By the way, can you also hear the D2 power supply buzz when it is in standby?



Power supply does not buzz in standby. I managed to measure voltage from D2/transformer: when power is off: 115V, fluctuates +0.3V max. When power is on: 114V, fluctuates +0.3V max. So it seems that there is enough voltage and this little fluctuation doesn't matter either?


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimmyTango* /forum/post/18035649
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> i just picked up a Statement D1 that i am demoing for the next few weeks to see if i like it. So far, I am very impressed.
> 
> 
> I have two issues to iron out. First is lipsync issues(I run the HDMI from the Oppo 83 and DTV HDDVR directly to the TV), audio to the Statement D1 digital coax and 5.1. Will just need to keep tweaking.
> 
> 
> The second issue is one that is really starting to drive me nuts. The volume control on the remote. using either the factory or harmony 880, the volume is insanely sensitive. i have had just a quick tap on the volume, i had it skip up 15 DB. Is there a way to turn this down in the menu system? Since it is happening with both the harmony and factory remote, and have now seen this mentioned in a few reviews, I am thinking it is an internal setting in the D1.



Welcome to the Anthem Processor Forum and to your D1. Most of the discussion is on the later models, but I think there enough of us who have or have had D1s to give you some help.


I have a similar based around the D1 set-up without lip sync issues.


I have a mac mini (lossless fromat music & SD movies), DTV HD DVR, Denon 3800BDCI & appleTV with the video connected through a DVDO VP50 with a single link to the TV. For the audio I use digital connections (toslink & coax) except for the BD player and I use 5.1 analog to the D1 to take advantage of the onboard decoding in the Denon.


I thought that the Oppo BD83 supported analog ouputs and onboard decoding so you might want to take advantage of this.


As to the volume moving in large increments, I use a harmony one, and occasionally this used to happen. If you play with the way the harmony sends the signals (repeats and delays) you can get it to be less sensitive.


One other thing to consider getting for your D1 is ARC (if you do not already have it). It really does work with your room to give you the best sound from your environment. It's about a $500 addition which you can order from a dealer (or maybe directly from Anthem).


Good luck and have fun with your D1, despite being an older generation pre/pro, it really is still an exceellent machine.


----------



## barrygordon

A simple and quick question to end some of my confusion. Prior to doing the ARC calibration (AVM-50v FW 2.08) what setup steps need to be done?


Speaker setup/configuration (I assume yes)

Listener position (I assume yes)

Level Calibration (????)


Please correct me if any of my assumptions are wrong


----------



## davoe

The power switch on the back of my D2v has no effect. I've tried cycling the power with the plug with the switch in both positions and it has no effect. Is it possible that it wasn't wired internally? Anyone have this issue?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18038653
> 
> 
> The power switch on the back of my D2v has no effect. I've tried cycling the power with the plug with the switch in both positions and it has no effect. Is it possible that it wasn't wired internally? Anyone have this issue?



Call Anthem tech support. As described, your D2v needs hardware service. They may be able to ship out a power supply (including the back panel power switch) that your dealer can install for you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/18037878
> 
> 
> A simple and quick question to end some of my confusion. Prior to doing the ARC calibration (AVM-50v FW 2.08) what setup steps need to be done?
> 
> 
> Speaker setup/configuration (I assume yes)
> 
> Listener position (I assume yes)
> 
> Level Calibration (????)
> 
> 
> Please correct me if any of my assumptions are wrong



There are several steps you need to do manually over and above the automatic stuff that ARC does, but some of them can be done either before or after you do your ARC setup.


1) Set your Speaker Configuration to indicate which speakers you have wired up. Note that a 5.1 speaker configuration always has SIDE surround speakers, not REAR surround speakers regardless of how far back you position those surround speakers. Be sure to specify whether your Side and Rear surround speakers are Direct firing or Dipole. IMPORTANT NOTE: When using ARC you must specify "1 Sub" if you have subwoofer, even if you happen to actually have more than one subwoofer in your setup. Do this in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Bass Management Move & Music.


2) Set your speaker distances. Do this in Setup > Listener Position.


3) Set some basic levels using your Radio Shack SPL meter. This helps get the basic volume level of your ARC solution closer to the recommended target of 75dB. In Setup > Level Calibration, zero all lines. Then set Manual test mode and adjust the Test Level line to yield 75dB SPL. Then go down to a subwoofer line, leave it at 0dB, and adjust the volume knob in your subwoofer to also yield 75dB SPL. ARC uses the Test Level value to set the volume of its test sweep tones, and it also drives the basic volume level of the solution. Adjusting the volume knob in your sub insures that it is already almost in balance with the rest of your speakers which can avoid problems. Ballpark settings are good enough as ARC will determine and Upload the precise values.


4) Set the Polarity and Phase of your subwoofer(s).


Speaker distances can be entered after doing ARC Measurement since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time (so it doesn't hear distance related differences). Of course if you actually MOVE a speaker you should re-Measure for ARC.


Subwoofer Polarity and Phase can also be entered after doing ARC Measurement if you only have one subwoofer. If you have MORE than one subwoofer, you must do this prior to ARC Measurement as ARC will hear the set of subwoofers playing together.

--Bob


----------



## barrygordon

Bob, Thank you very much!!!


That reaffirmed what I thought and cleared some things up


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimmyTango* /forum/post/18035649
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> i just picked up a Statement D1 that i am demoing for the next few weeks to see if i like it. So far, I am very impressed.
> 
> 
> I have two issues to iron out. First is lipsync issues(I run the HDMI from the Oppo 83 and DTV HDDVR directly to the TV), audio to the Statement D1 digital coax and 5.1. Will just need to keep tweaking.
> 
> 
> The second issue is one that is really starting to drive me nuts. The volume control on the remote. using either the factory or harmony 880, the volume is insanely sensitive. i have had just a quick tap on the volume, i had it skip up 15 DB. Is there a way to turn this down in the menu system? Since it is happening with both the harmony and factory remote, and have now seen this mentioned in a few reviews, I am thinking it is an internal setting in the D1.



On your lip-sync, set the delay in the D1 using the Oppo as your standard. There is an audio sync test pattern (sweeping clock hand with a tone each time it sweeps through 12) on the "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray calibration disc. Broadcast TV sources often have varying lip-sync due to re-transmission screw ups, so it is seldom worth the effort to try to chase them as they will vary from channel to channel and sometimes even during a given program.


Use whatever value you find from the Oppo as the value for your other source devices.


On your volume control, evidently the D1 thinks it is receiving multiple volume commands. One way this can happen is if the internal IR receivers that are used for the rear IR input jacks are picking up reflections of the command from the remote -- along with the front panel IR receiver you intended to use.


In the Setup menu section for IR, try turning off the rear IR inputs.


If you STILL have this problem using the original D1 remote, then either the remote or your D1 probably needs service. Give Anthem tech support a call.


Note, programmable remotes typically send IR commands several times for each button push. Many devices will only accept a command if they see it coming in 3 or more times in a row. This is how they reject commands not meant for them. The Anthem's will react immediately to things like Volume so if your programmable remote is sending IR repeats like this then the Anthem sees it as multiple button presses, and you can get more action than you wanted. The Harmony remotes allow you to turn off the key repeat.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/18035903
> 
> 
> My experience mirrors yours to a T, davoe.
> 
> Although I didn't contact Anthem, I read other white papers on room correction and did some serious, extended listening.
> 
> Boosting the correction to 20kHz resulted in blowing 2 ribbon tweeters in my center channel and nearly blowing a woofer in one of my rear surrounds.
> 
> In my system, extending the freq not only over boosted the high end, I firmly believe that it caused errors in the overall calculations and not just "tizzies" in the upper end.
> 
> FWIW, if people want to extend above 5kHz, I would suggest returning to the default after extended eval at extended setting and see how the 2 compare.



ARC has a limit of 6dB boost it will apply to any speaker at any frequency to protect both speakers and amps. This is yet another reason why you might want to take action to improve the red Measured curves -- i.e., if some speaker needs more than 6dB boost at some frequency.


It is definitely the case that if you tell ARC to divert resources to correcting higher frequencies you may get a poorer solution at lower frequencies. This will happen if ARC has a lot of correction to do both at low and high frequencies. Such problems will typically show up as increased wobbles -- increased residual error -- in the green Calculated curves at lower frequencies. If you see that, then back off Max EQ Frequency until you get a nice compromise solution which gives you a decent amount of high frequency correction without introducing those wobbles in the lower frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## LesPaul

4) Set the Polarity and Phase of your subwoofer(s).


Speaker distances can be entered after doing ARC Measurement since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time (so it doesn't hear distance related differences). Of course if you actually MOVE a speaker you should re-Measure for ARC.


Subwoofer Polarity and Phase can also be entered after doing ARC Measurement if you only have one subwoofer. If you have MORE than one subwoofer, you must do this prior to ARC Measurement as ARC will hear the set of subwoofers playing together.

--Bob[/quote]


Bob, I thought that ARC set the the phase and polarity with respect to the front speaker?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/18040838
> 
> 
> Bob, I thought that ARC set the the phase and polarity with respect to the front speaker?



ARC does not set subwoofer Phase/Polarity. It can't because it only listens to one speaker at a time so it can't hear relative timing between the Sub and LF. [NOTE: If you only have one subwoofer, you can adjust subwoofer Phase/Polarity without having to re-Measure for ARC. Your bass transitions through the crossover frequencies will just sound better with your current ARC solution once you have subwoofer Phase/Polarity set correctly.]


Similarly, ARC will not detect if you have wired any of your main speakers backwards (opposite polarity) compared to the other main speakers. You need to check this separately. [NOTE: Since ARC doesn't hear the effect of such incorrect main speaker wiring, you can fix any problem you find without having to re-Measure for ARC. Imaging between speaker pairs will just work better when they are wired with matching polarity.]


For tips on setting subwoofer Phase/Polarity see the post links in the Setup section of the collected post links in the first post of this thread.


Main speaker Polarity -- i.e., confirming that each main speaker has the + and - wires connected the same way around -- can be confirmed with an in-phase / out-of-phase test found on several calibration discs. The AIX audio calibration Blu-Ray disc has a particularly nice implementation of this test:

http://www.aixrecords.com/catalog/oppo_bd.html 


NOTE: Be sure to set your speaker distances correctly before attempting to adjust subwoofer Phase/Polarity. Also it helps if the subwoofer is roughly in volume balance with the main speaker you are using as part of the test -- usually the LF speaker -- since the change you are listening for is pretty subtle to begin with.

--Bob


----------



## LesPaul

Thanks Bob,


I was asking this question because I set up my systems with the SUB in a different location than I have it in now. I ran ARC for both installations and with the first SUB location it set my phase to 5 degrees in the second it set it to 0 degrees. I am not sure how this happened if ARC does not set the SUB phase. I do understand what you are saying and I agree.


Thanks again.


----------



## eastonaltree

We're working on a 1 month old 50v, and after I uploaded the settings to the unit using the settings editor, the unit will not power up. I'm using a mac with vmware fusion and the keyspan USA-19h usb-serial. I've used this setup with many other Anthem systems in the past with no issues. I've tried using the flash erase program, but even that fails to find the unit. Any ideas?


thanks,


easton


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18032115
> 
> 
> From lots of experimentation, I have concluded that RG is quite important even if ARC says it should be less than 1 in some cases, I always see what my LCR speakers can handle and factor as high as 4(3.99++). In your case you I think your frontstage speakers can handle a gain 0f 3.9. I would not go beyond 8 to 10khz in the max freq. box as there is an inherent dip on the response of the ARC mic and would probably make your speakers sound too bright.



ABC: thx for the insights. fwiw, the most recent uploads(which you previewed) resulted in a brighter than normal response.

i'll recalculate to a higher gain, lowering the freq box 8 khz and hear the newer sounds.

walt


----------



## eastonaltree

I just realized that I am using an old version of the Flash erase program that I found on here. Can anyone send me the 2.2 version? Oh, and I'm a dealer, I just don't have this tool.


Thanks!


----------



## eastonaltree

Found my dealer login and got the necessary tools to resurrect the unit!


----------



## jmcomp124




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18041167
> 
> 
> ARC does not set subwoofer Phase/Polarity. It can't because it only listens to one speaker at a time so it can't hear relative timing between the Sub and LF. [NOTE: If you only have one subwoofer, you can adjust subwoofer Phase/Polarity without having to re-Measure for ARC. Your bass transitions through the crossover frequencies will just sound better with your current ARC solution once you have subwoofer Phase/Polarity set correctly.]
> 
> 
> Similarly, ARC will not detect if you have wired any of your main speakers backwards (opposite polarity) compared to the other main speakers. You need to check this separately. [NOTE: Since ARC doesn't hear the effect of such incorrect main speaker wiring, you can fix any problem you find without having to re-Measure for ARC. Imaging between speaker pairs will just work better when they are wired with matching polarity.]
> 
> 
> For tips on setting subwoofer Phase/Polarity see the post links in the Setup section of the collected post links in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> Main speaker Polarity -- i.e., confirming that each main speaker has the + and - wires connected the same way around -- can be confirmed with an in-phase / out-of-phase test found on several calibration discs. The AIX audio calibration Blu-Ray disc has a particularly nice implementation of this test:
> 
> http://www.aixrecords.com/catalog/oppo_bd.html
> 
> 
> NOTE: Be sure to set your speaker distances correctly before attempting to adjust subwoofer Phase/Polarity. Also it helps if the subwoofer is roughly in volume balance with the main speaker you are using as part of the test -- usually the LF speaker -- since the change you are listening for is pretty subtle to begin with.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

A few quick questions..

1. Does ARC correct for both magnitude and phase?

2. Is the resolution of filters the same for the satellites as compared to the subwoofer? If no, by what factor is it different?

3. For blending sattelites to mains, does ARC use the filters at the crossover point also, or does it simply do a search for the best crossover point and set that after correcting each channel individually?


Thanks,

-Jai


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18040263
> 
> 
> IMPORTANT NOTE: When using ARC you must specify "1 Sub" if you have subwoofer, even if you happen to actually have more than one subwoofer in your setup. Do this in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Bass Management Move & Music.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I have been using a single subwoofer which just happened to malfunction a couple of days ago. I started thinking at the possibility of replacing it with two subs and your comment above raised my interest.

Questions:

1. Do you have any experience running two subs instead of one? If so would you mind sharing the pros/cons?


2. The D2 allows to run two subs, however, both subs carry the same signal (mono), am I right?


3. While my sub is in for repairs (probably 10 days), I will be listening without a sub. Other than listening in 2-Channel Balanced Mode, can you suggest what settings I can change in the D2 to temporarily listen without a sub and without having to re-run ARC?


Thanks!!!


----------



## ccomhs

Hi Everyone/ Bob:


Can I use the digital outs on the Anthem Statement D2v to send a ROOM CORRECTED digital signal? Is there any way to use the digital processing capabilities of the D2v without converting the output signal to analog?


Basically, I want to use the D2v room correction filters with an outboard DAC. can this be done in an all digital path?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmcomp124* /forum/post/18042864
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> A few quick questions..
> 
> 1. Does ARC correct for both magnitude and phase?
> 
> 2. Is the resolution of filters the same for the satellites as compared to the subwoofer? If no, by what factor is it different?
> 
> 3. For blending sattelites to mains, does ARC use the filters at the crossover point also, or does it simply do a search for the best crossover point and set that after correcting each channel individually?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Jai



Anthem has been very close-mouthed about the inner workings of ARC so I'm afraid I don't have anything but guesses for those 3 questions.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/18043314
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I have been using a single subwoofer which just happened to malfunction a couple of days ago. I started thinking at the possibility of replacing it with two subs and your comment above raised my interest.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1. Do you have any experience running two subs instead of one? If so would you mind sharing the pros/cons?
> 
> 
> 2. The D2 allows to run two subs, however, both subs carry the same signal (mono), am I right?
> 
> 
> 3. While my sub is in for repairs (probably 10 days), I will be listening without a sub. Other than listening in 2-Channel Balanced Mode, can you suggest what settings I can change in the D2 to temporarily listen without a sub and without having to re-run ARC?
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!



I've not personally tried using 2 subs with ARC, but I know plenty of people who have. Setting up 2 subs is a bit more time consuming since you've got positioning experiments to try with each and you need to get them in proper phase with each other. But the upside is that the 2 subs will almost certainly couple differently to the room modes and so the peaks and dips will average out and be less pronounced -- a good thing -- less for ARC to have to correct. NOTE: The idea is not to get "stereo" bass. Subwoofers work by pressurizing the entire room so their bass "comes from everywhere". It helps to have the 2 subs equidistant from the seating, but other than that you can put them just about anywhere in the room.


Subwoofers need to huff a lot of air to do their job. Sometimes using two subs is more convenient than using a suitably larger single sub big enough for the cubic feet of airspace in your listening room.


The Anthem actually has 4 sub outputs (two RCA and two XLR), but yes, they all carry the identical signal. That means if you are going to use multiple subs you should get subs that have their own internal volume, polarity, and phase adjustment knobs. In addition, your subs should be able to bypass any internal crossover they might have.


You can take your existing ARC results file and temporarily re-jigger it for No Sub without having to re-Measure:


In the Targets window, set the LF/RF speaker pair to "Full Range". Reduce the "cutoff" for the sub one step below 25Hz and it will change to "no speaker". Bass steering from other speakers, and the LFE channel itself, will be sent to LF/RF -- i.e., LF/RF will now also be your "sub". Depending on how well they Measured when you made that file, you might also want to lower the "cutoff" for LF/RF since there's no longer a sub supporting their low end. I.e., if they are truly full range capable, lowering the "cutoff" will take more advantage of that.


Accept those Targets changes, re-Calculate, and re-Upload. Voila!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/18043552
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone/ Bob:
> 
> 
> Can I use the digital outs on the Anthem Statement D2v to send a ROOM CORRECTED digital signal? Is there any way to use the digital processing capabilities of the D2v without converting the output signal to analog?
> 
> 
> Basically, I want to use the D2v room correction filters with an outboard DAC. can this be done in an all digital path?



I don't believe you can, but I've not really checked into this possibility.


As far as I know, the Digital audio outputs pass through the selected digital input. I.e., if the digital input is DD5.1, then that's what goes to the output without any conversion or processing (including ARC).


I suggest you send an email to Anthem tech support to see if they've got a trick for doing what you want to do. If you find out how to do it, please do post the answer here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eastonaltree* /forum/post/18042834
> 
> 
> Found my dealer login and got the necessary tools to resurrect the unit!



So that AVM 50v is back up and running again? Cool!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/18041839
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> I was asking this question because I set up my systems with the SUB in a different location than I have it in now. I ran ARC for both installations and with the first SUB location it set my phase to 5 degrees in the second it set it to 0 degrees. I am not sure how this happened if ARC does not set the SUB phase. I do understand what you are saying and I agree.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



Well ARC doesn't do it, so it must have been gremlins....









--Bob


----------



## jmcomp124




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18043948
> 
> 
> Anthem has been very close-mouthed about the inner workings of ARC so I'm afraid I don't have anything but guesses for those 3 questions.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Please make your best educated guesses.

Thanks,

-Jai


----------



## erchn

Hi all,


Has anyone had much luck with this combination? I'm experimenting with furniture/speaker positioning and would like a way to get a quick reading. REW fits the bill nicely, and I was hoping to be able to use the ARC Mic. The noise floor on either this MIC or on my computer is pretty high (50+ db), so I think I'm getting quite a bit of false spikes in my data.


REW is quite powerful, but also a bit overwhelming, any tips people might have would be great.


Sorry if this has been asked, I couldn't find anything.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccomhs* /forum/post/18043552
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone/ Bob:
> 
> 
> Can I use the digital outs on the Anthem Statement D2v to send a ROOM CORRECTED digital signal? Is there any way to use the digital processing capabilities of the D2v without converting the output signal to analog?
> 
> 
> Basically, I want to use the D2v room correction filters with an outboard DAC. can this be done in an all digital path?



But why? Do you really have a better DAC than the D2v?


----------



## jayray

While doing an ARC measurment today, at one point the sub test tone continued even though the message asked me to move to the 5th position. This stopped as soon as the next test tone sequence started. ARC 2.4 and firmware 2.08a. Using a D2v. Never had this happen before.

John


----------



## Dewboy3

I have a D2v and Sony BDP S300 with current update which states it will play DTS Master HD and Dolby True HD. My question is when I play a DTS Master HD Blue Ray the output from the D2v reads 1536kbps and the DTS light is on, and when I play Dolby True HD Blue Ray output is 640kbps and the Dolby True HD light is not on. I have the Sony audio HDMI set to Auto. So why would that be? Do I have something set wrong or does Dolby True HD only output 640 kbps?


Dewboy


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dewboy3* /forum/post/18051025
> 
> 
> I have a D2v and Sony BDP S300 with current update which states it will play DTS Master HD and Dolby True HD. My question is when I play a DTS Master HD Blue Ray the output from the D2v reads 1536kbps and the DTS light is on, and when I play Dolby True HD Blue Ray output is 640kbps and the Dolby True HD light is not on. I have the Sony audio HDMI set to Auto. So why would that be? Do I have something set wrong or does Dolby True HD only output 640 kbps?



Something is set wrong. Those bitrates are for the lossy "core" soundtracks, not the lossless HD tracks.


Seems like you are connected with S/PDIF instead of HDMI. Must use HDMI to get the HD tracks into the D2v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dewboy3* /forum/post/18051025
> 
> 
> I have a D2v and Sony BDP S300 with current update which states it will play DTS Master HD and Dolby True HD. My question is when I play a DTS Master HD Blue Ray the output from the D2v reads 1536kbps and the DTS light is on, and when I play Dolby True HD Blue Ray output is 640kbps and the Dolby True HD light is not on. I have the Sony audio HDMI set to Auto. So why would that be? Do I have something set wrong or does Dolby True HD only output 640 kbps?
> 
> 
> Dewboy



You have something set wrong in the player. Most likely you have "Secondary Audio Mixing" enabled which is forcing the player to use the lossy compatibility tracks instead of the lossless tracks you are trying to play.


Check the owner's thread for your player to find out the correct settings to get proper bitstream output of the lossless tracks.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18050165
> 
> 
> While doing an ARC measurment today, at one point the sub test tone continued even though the message asked me to move to the 5th position. This stopped as soon as the next test tone sequence started. ARC 2.4 and firmware 2.08a. Using a D2v. Never had this happen before.
> 
> John



Apparently the mute command wasn't received/processed properly at the end of that pass. Surprising, but no harm done.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmcomp124* /forum/post/18042864
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> A few quick questions..
> 
> 1. Does ARC correct for both magnitude and phase?
> 
> 2. Is the resolution of filters the same for the satellites as compared to the subwoofer? If no, by what factor is it different?
> 
> 3. For blending sattelites to mains, does ARC use the filters at the crossover point also, or does it simply do a search for the best crossover point and set that after correcting each channel individually?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Jai



1) Unknown, but there's some evidence to suggest the answer might be yes.


2) Unknown. What's known is that ARC shifts resources around depending on the degree of correction needed and how high up you let ARC do correction. That suggests ARC's resources are fungible -- i.e, they can be applied at both high and low frequencies.


3) ARC picks the crossovers in a preliminary pass based on the raw, uncorrected measurements. This results in Target curves for each speaker. ARC then attempts to correct each speaker to its chosen Target. What's not known is how much intelligence ARC applies in the first pass as to what it is capable of doing in the second pass -- i.e., how ARC optimizes its choice of the crossovers. Note 1: LFE content is handled specially so that the upper end of LFE is not lost if a lower bass steering crossover point is needed.

--Bob


----------



## davoe

Bob, can you tell from all of the ARC files you've looked at if there is a distinct measurement dip from the microphone out at 15kHz? All of my speaker measurements show a big dip there. My speakers are very high quality and I doubt if they roll off that much. I'm thinking it's the directionality of the microphone. I looked at the sample plots on the Anthem website and it has it too.


Thanks,

Dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18054484
> 
> 
> Bob, can you tell from all of the ARC files you've looked at if there is a distinct measurement dip from the microphone out at 15kHz? All of my speaker measurements show a big dip there. My speakers are very high quality and I doubt if they roll off that much. I'm thinking it's the directionality of the microphone. I looked at the sample plots on the Anthem website and it has it too.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave



There is not. I've seen plenty of ARC charts that do not show this dip. I've seen other ARC charts where the dip only seems to happen with some of the speakers in the setup.


It could be a problem in specific ARC mics.


It could be an issue with the directionality of the ARC mic itself -- e.g., related to some people having all speakers at seated ear height while other people have speakers mounted higher up. Even if the speaker is pointed correctly if the mic itself becomes too directional at the higher frequencies that could lead to what's been seen.


It could be an issue of improper mic placement during Measurement.


And it could be a room environment issue -- e.g., speaker pointing, type of grill cloth and cloth mounting, other effects such as humidity.


Of course it could also be "real" -- i.e., that the mic is actually hearing that output from the speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

How do you post ARC graph charts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New, Preliminary "Dolby Volume" Test Firmware V2.08d DV Now On Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem has today placed preliminary, test, Beta -- and whatever other words you can think of to suggest it aint quite done yet -- D2v and AVM 50v firmware on their password protected download page. It is the first "test" version to include the long awaited Dolby Volume feature.


The installer files are named "V2.08d DV", and they are dated January 14, so it looks like they had time to do some serious pre-release testing.


The change notes for changes since the current "official" version, V2.08, read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.08d beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Preliminary version with Dolby Volume. The menu layout and algorithm is not final but it's close - this is just for anyone interested to get a feel for what's in store. For operating instructions open d2v_manual v2.1.pdf and type "Dolby Volume" in your pdf viewer's search box.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08a beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Updated OKI bootloader to reduce chance of a video board programming failure and support restoring non-functioning video boards when a serial strap is installed.
> 
> 
> 2. Changes to HDCP code.
> 
> 
> 3. Changes to impedance and drive strength settings for HDMI switches.



NOTE 1: We were expecting other audio related bug fixes to appear in this release, but they are not mentioned in the release notes, so we'll just have to check and see.


NOTE 2: The beta D2v Manual update mentioned in the release notes is also included in the download folder containing the installers


As with all "test" releases, be aware that "test" software is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises.

--Bob


[EDITED to provide location for the Manual.]


----------



## Texas steve

This will be interesting! Yall let us know the results of your experience with this new version







I note that in the release zip file is the new manual explaining the set up of DV. Attached is a explanation from the new manual









Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
*New, Preliminary "Dolby Volume" Test







Firmware V2.08d DV Now On Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem has today placed preliminary, test, Beta -- and whatever other words you can think of to suggest it aint quite done yet -- D2v and AVM 50v firmware on their password protected download page. It is the first "test" version to include the long awaited Dolby Volume feature.


]

 

dolby v.doc 277k . file


----------



## davoe

"It could be an issue of improper mic placement during Measurement."


Bob, the microphone is supposed to be point strait up (at the ceiling) correct? How accurate does straight up have to be. I just eye ball it relative a door or window casement. Is that good enough?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18055971
> 
> 
> "It could be an issue of improper mic placement during Measurement."
> 
> 
> Bob, the microphone is supposed to be point strait up (at the ceiling) correct? How accurate does straight up have to be. I just eye ball it relative a door or window casement. Is that good enough?



Don't worry too much about the 15khz dip, almost everybody has it, it might be due to the avereging of the mic positions or a mic issue.


As long as the mic is pointing up the ceiling you are doing it correctly.


----------



## erchn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18056639
> 
> 
> Don't worry too much about the 15khz dip, almost everybody has it, it might be due to the avereging of the mic positions or a mic issue.
> 
> 
> As long as the mic is pointing up the ceiling you are doing it correctly.



I personally believe its ARC, not the Mic. Using REW I see no dip, though I'm only measuring one position.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erchn* /forum/post/18057992
> 
> 
> I personally believe its ARC, not the Mic. Using REW I see no dip, though I'm only measuring one position.



I don't see how it could be the ARC software. If it was the software, everyone would be seeing it.


Keep in mind that if the issue is speaker directionality you won't really get a handle on what the ARC mic is actually seeing until you do your REW tests at the full set of ARC mic positions. The red Measured curves in the ARC charts are simply an unweighted average of what the ARC mic recorded at each mic position for each speaker.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The wording has been revised in the instructions put up by the V2.08d installer when you start it. It states the install should take between 25 and 40 minutes.


It advises you turn off all sources and your display prior to the install. The instruction to physically disconnect HDMI devices is no longer present. However since many newer HDMI devices keep their sockets live even when they are "off", it is still wise, in my opinion, to remove wall power from everything except the Anthem and your computer during the install.


The mysterious last step of powering on for 30 seconds is no longer shown. We never got an explanation of why that was in there before.


ETA: My install over V2.08a actually only took 16 minutes, and there were none of the time consuming repeated passes during the video board programming I experienced during the V2.08a install. It's possible some of the work included in their time estimate was actually done by the V2.08a install.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I can't get Level Calibration > Test Level to produce a test tone using V2.08d, regardless of whether Dolby Volume is on or off in the most recently selected source device. And when you set test mode to Manual and select the Test Level line, the blue "stereo" light flashes rapidly at the lower left corner of the Front Panel display.


I've sent an email to Nick asking for clarification.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here's some stuff I wrote last December based on an early look at the draft Manual changes for Dolby Volume and some brief discussion with Nick. It looks like the Dolby Volume user interface in V2.08d matches what was in that draft manual back then. I don't know what user interface changes are still pending:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17225312
> 
> 
> More on Dolby Volume:
> 
> 
> I got a chance to see a preview, draft copy of the new Manual text for the upcoming Dolby Volume feature. It looks pretty straightforward at this point.
> 
> 
> In Setup > Level Calibration there is a new "Dolby Offset" line -- usually left at 0dB, which can be used to manually set a reference 75dB level for the Dolby stuff -- apparently for when you aren't using that as your normal reference level. You don't have to bother with this if you use ARC -- ARC takes care of it.
> 
> 
> In Setup > Source Setup for each Source there are three new items. First there is an item to turn Dolby Volume on. Choices are Movie, Music and OFF, with somewhat different parameters set under the covers for Movie and Music.
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume includes special volume compensation for low and high frequencies as well as over-all volume leveling. You can separately control how aggressively the volume leveling function operates with the Dolby Leveling setting. You have the choice of OFF and 10 steps. If Leveling is set to OFF the Dolby Volume frequency based volume adjustments still happen (assuming Dolby Volume itself is set to MOVIE or MUSIC).
> 
> 
> So for example you might use more aggressive volume leveling when watching TV (kill off those commercials) than when watching movies from a disc but you would still get the frequency based adjustment either way. The default Leveling setting is "9" (mandated by Dolby) -- pretty aggressive -- so this is the one control you will likely want to play with until you find your preferred setting for each type of source and content.
> 
> 
> There is a third item called "Half Mode" -- apparently the terminology comes from Dolby. Half Mode ON is described as making the Dolby Volume frequency based volume adjustments only apply when audio is playing below "reference levels". The (strongly) recommended setting for Half Mode is ON. Half Mode ON is also the factory default. "Reference levels" here refers to the combo of audio content input level and current volume setting and basically means things are playing loud enough that the frequency extremes are audible anyway. Different under the covers parameters apply to this for Movie and Music.
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume processing only applies to the Main path.
> 
> 
> The Dynamics button has been changed. Press it once and use Up/Down arrow to view/change Dolby Volume ON/OFF. If Dolby Volume is ON, the settings in Setup > Source Setup apply. If Dolby Volume is OFF, press Dynamics a 2nd time to view change the older style Dynamics adjustment that applies to certain DD and DTS tracks that contain Dynamic Range Control meta-data.
> 
> 
> NOTE: For best results, disable any Dynamic Range Control or audio gain processing in each of your Source devices. Let Dolby Volume in the Anthem do all the work.
> 
> 
> All the other parameters are apparently set under the covers by Anthem. I'm sensing quite a lot of excitement from these guys as to how well this stuff is working. It will be interesting to see what we get in the first Beta.
> 
> --Bob



--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The special bass test tones in the Room Resonance Filter also appear to still be broken in V2.08d. I sent an email to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well my first impression with Dolby Volume in its current incarnation is not good. I'm getting way more bass than I like.

--Bob


----------



## Hawaii AV

After installing the beta version of Dolby Volume on the D2v, is it necessary to re-run ARC so that the settings in the new Dolby Volume categories can be acknowledged and set by ARC? Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hawaii AV* /forum/post/18058959
> 
> 
> After installing the beta version of Dolby Volume on the D2v, is it necessary to re-run ARC so that the settings in the new Dolby Volume categories can be acknowledged and set by ARC? Thanks.



Good question. We're all still learning this new feature. I don't see anything in the draft Manual suggesting you can't just use your prior ARC setup.


I re-Uploaded my prior ARC solution after doing the firmware install, "just in case". With Dolby Volume set to Off for each Source it sounds just as good as it did before so I don't think redoing ARC would improve that use. But with Dolby Volume set to Movie or Music I'm getting too much bass.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Does anyone have any idea why my D2v shows up in my Windows7\\Control Panel\

Vidia Control Panel as an AVM50v?

Is it of any consequence?


Thanks


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hawaii AV* /forum/post/18058959
> 
> 
> After installing the beta version of Dolby Volume on the D2v, is it necessary to re-run ARC so that the settings in the new Dolby Volume categories can be acknowledged and set by ARC? Thanks.



I will verify but I don't see why this would be required. The ARC measurement by pass all filters.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /forum/post/18059079
> 
> 
> Good question. We're all still learning this new feature. I don't see anything in the draft Manual suggesting you can't just use your prior ARC setup.
> 
> 
> I re-Uploaded my prior ARC solution after doing the firmware install, "just in case". With Dolby Volume set to Off for each Source it sounds just as good as it did before so I don't think redoing ARC would improve that use. But with Dolby Volume set to Movie or Music I'm getting too much bass.
> 
> --Bob



I haven't tested DV yet but this sound more like a DV issue. I don't see why we would need to rerun ARC.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18059079
> 
> 
> Good question. We're all still learning this new feature. I don't see anything in the draft Manual suggesting you can't just use your prior ARC setup.
> 
> 
> I re-Uploaded my prior ARC solution after doing the firmware install, "just in case". With Dolby Volume set to Off for each Source it sounds just as good as it did before so I don't think redoing ARC would improve that use. But with Dolby Volume set to Movie or Music I'm getting too much bass.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Just installed 2.08d and have to echo Bob's sentiments regarding a very perceivable boost in bass.


Regards,


----------



## jayray

I get too much bass as well with DV.

Install took 16 min. No install issues.

John


----------



## jayray

Regarding the Bass with DV, here is Nick's response,

*"re bass - try changing leveling amount, and dolby vol offset - the default is on the aggressive side.*" Still trying to find how to do this.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here's the body of an email I just sent to Nick at Anthem summarizing my testing of pending audio bugs using V2.08d. All these tests were done with Dolby Volume set to OFF. NOTE: Folks with 7.1 speaker systems need to test to see if 5.1 input is being properly raised to 7.1 speaker output in V2.08d. I only have a 5.1 speaker setup, so I can't test that:



> Quote:
> It looks like the noise rejection algorithm is working a bit better. It appears the new algorithm is capturing the start of audio faster -- significantly less delay before audio begins it seems. All of the AIX audio calibration disc tests work fine, as does the "Ratatouille" SD-DVD audio setup test (in the Oppo -- either LPCM or Bitstream).
> 
> 
> On the down side, however, it is still the case that the Avia Pro SD-DVD Audio Tests disc Dolby 5.1 Channel ID test, sent as HDMI LPCM from either the Oppo or the PS3, produces dropouts during the LF speaker tone portion. This is quite repeatable -- each time it loops around.
> 
> 
> I tried a few tests to reproduce the problem where 44.1KHz 2.0 LPCM (e.g. from a CD) fed into PLIIx-Movie only produced output on LF/RF/Sub in my 5.1 speaker setup. I was not able to get it to fail. So the problem with Mode Presets sometimes not being applied correctly may be fixed. This is an attempt to prove a negative so I'll just have to keep an eye on it to see if I ever get a failure.
> 
> 
> Again on the down side, the bug still exists where the 7.1 DTS-HD MA track on "Hairspray" Blu-Ray gets seen as only 5.1 DTS-HD MA Bitstream input. NOTE: It remains the case that the New Line Logo at the start of the disc gets seen correctly as 7.1 DTS-HD MA Bitstream input. It is only the audio track for the feature itself that is broken. This is one of those oddball DTS-HD MA tracks that uses the "alternate speaker presentation".
> 
> 
> The "Buzz/SNAP!" problem still exists using my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi SD-DVD player (HDMI Bitstream). It is most easily generated using the audio test in "Ratatouille" SD-DVD. Just leave the Center speaker playing and it happens each time the test tone loops once a minute. This is using HDMI 1 for input.
> 
> 
> NOTE: I have not yet tried moving the Oppo HDMI plug back to the HDMI 3 input to see if the problem with 1080p/60 30-bit handshakes for HDMI 1-4 has been resolved. Should I try that?
> 
> 
> I'm waiting on AVS reports from folks who experienced the bug where 5.1 input was not correctly raised to 7.1 speaker output to see if that's fixed.
> 
> 
> For completeness: From my earlier emails, Level Calibration > Test Level won't generate a test tone regardless of what I try (this is a new bug). And the special bass test tones in the Room Resonance Filter remain broken (this is an old bug).
> 
> 
> Since Test Level isn't functional, I can't test to see if I still have the problem where a new ARC result comes in 6dB higher than expected (e.g., a Test Level set to 75dB produces an ARC solution where the flat part of the Target curve to the right of the crossovers is at 81dB -- lowering Test Level an addition 6dB fixes that). Not everyone on AVS was seeing this, but quite a few folks were.




--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18062477
> 
> 
> Regarding the Bass with DV, here is Nick's response,
> 
> *"re bass - try changing leveling amount, and dolby vol offset - the default is on the aggressive side.* Still trying to find how to do this."
> 
> John



Reducing Leveling amount from the default 9 setting all the way down to OFF does not eliminate the excess bass (tested with Dolby Volume set to Movie).


I did not try fiddling with the Level Calibration > Dolby Offset value yet. I'll try that next.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

So Nick is saying HE is "still trying to find how to do this" or you are?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18062477
> 
> 
> Regarding the Bass with DV, here is Nick's response,
> 
> *"re bass - try changing leveling amount, and dolby vol offset - the default is on the aggressive side.* Still trying to find how to do this."
> 
> John


----------



## Kensmith48

I finally uploaded my "best" room correction, (nothing to brag about). Took awhile to do this with 7 Def. Tech. bi-polar speakers and 2 DT Reference subs. I followed all of Bob P.'s suggestions on pre-ARC and it does sound better using 5000 freq. (I tried 12,500 and it was way too bright sounding.)I thought I'd get out my Radio Shack spl meter and check on the speaker settings. Some speakers were right at 75db and some were off 2-3 db's including the subs. Should I leave as is or adjust so all speakers are at 75db?


Thanks,

Ken


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18062547
> 
> 
> So Nick is saying HE is "still trying to find how to do this" or you are?



I am.

John


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Just tried a 5.1 DTS-MA track raised to 7.1 using DD PLxII and all is well. Is this what you wanted to know?

John


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18062736
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Just tried a 5.1 DTS-MA track raised to 7.1 using DD PLxII and all is well. Is this what you wanted to know?
> 
> John



Greetings,


Same here, all set.



Regards,


----------



## studlygoorite

Since Test Level isn't functional, I can't test to see if I still have the problem where a new ARC result comes in 6dB higher than expected (e.g., a Test Level set to 75dB produces an ARC solution where the flat part of the Target curve to the right of the crossovers is at 81dB -- lowering Test Level an addition 6dB fixes that). Not everyone on AVS was seeing this, but quite a few folks were



If test level is not functional does this mean we cannot run ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18062591
> 
> 
> I finally uploaded my "best" room correction, (nothing to brag about). Took awhile to do this with 7 Def. Tech. bi-polar speakers and 2 DT Reference subs. I followed all of Bob P.'s suggestions on pre-ARC and it does sound better using 5000 freq. (I tried 12,500 and it was way too bright sounding.)I thought I'd get out my Radio Shack spl meter and check on the speaker settings. Some speakers were right at 75db and some were off 2-3 db's including the subs. Should I leave as is or adjust so all speakers are at 75db?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



Leave the volume trims set the way ARC Uploaded them.


ARC uses a wider frequency range to set the speaker volume trims than your SPL meter will hear when you use the level setting test tones. In addition, the true output of each speaker is a combo of the volume trim and the room correction processing (which the test tones bypass). The volume trims ARC Uploaded are the correct ones, and if you change them your ARC setup will no longer be correct.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18062851
> 
> 
> Since Test Level isn't functional, I can't test to see if I still have the problem where a new ARC result comes in 6dB higher than expected (e.g., a Test Level set to 75dB produces an ARC solution where the flat part of the Target curve to the right of the crossovers is at 81dB -- lowering Test Level an addition 6dB fixes that). Not everyone on AVS was seeing this, but quite a few folks were
> 
> 
> 
> If test level is not functional does this mean we cannot run ARC?



I've not tried running ARC Measurements with this firmware but you don't need the Test Level tone to do an ARC setup. If your ARC result comes out too high or too low you can adjust the Test Level setting to compensate (without actually listening to the tone) just before your next ARC run.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18062736
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Just tried a 5.1 DTS-MA track raised to 7.1 using DD PLxII and all is well. Is this what you wanted to know?
> 
> John



Cool! That was an important bug to get fixed.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Any one have luck yet lowering the bass per Nicks suggestion?











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18062655
> 
> 
> I am.
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18063019
> 
> 
> Any one have luck yet lowering the bass per Nicks suggestion?



I can't find in the manual how to do either. Bob seems to know how the first suggestion can be tried but for the second, beats me.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18063116
> 
> 
> I can't find in the manual how to do either. Bob seems to know how the first suggestion can be tried but for the second, beats me.
> 
> John



The Leveling adjustment (default value 9) is found in Source Setup for each Source. The default value is apparently mandated by Dolby and is very aggressive -- i.e., nearly max volume leveling. But leveling doesn't seem to be the problem. The problem is that the bass boost is turned up too high regardless of leveling.


The Level Calibration menu appears to be badly broken. I can't get to the Dolby Offset line to produce a test tone to try. Every time I try, whether or not Dolby Volume is turned on in the most recently chosen Source, it switches it to NA and skips over it.


I've also had failures where every line produces a test tone from the LF speaker -- the tone itself being at the wrong volume.


So something is screwed up in the Level Calibration menu. Off to send an email to Nick.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks Bob, I was gong to load this version, but I think Ill hold. I like bass but want controll and from what you saying you cant get to that in the new version. I guess you could lower it on the fly for now.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18063160
> 
> 
> The Leveling adjustment (default value 9) is found in Source Setup for each Source. The default value is apparently mandated by Dolby and is very aggressive -- i.e., nearly max volume leveling. But leveling doesn't seem to be the problem. The problem is that the bass boost is turned up too high regardless of leveling.
> 
> 
> The Level Calibration menu appears to be badly broken. I can't get to the Dolby Offset line to produce a test tone to try. Every time I try, whether or not Dolby Volume is turned on in the most recently chosen Source, it switches it to NA and skips over it.
> 
> 
> I've also had failures where every line produces a test tone from the LF speaker -- the tone itself being at the wrong volume.
> 
> 
> So something is screwed up in the Level Calibration menu. Off to send an email to Nick.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18063411
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I was gong to load this version, but I think Ill hold. I like bass but want controll and from what you saying you cant get to that in the new version. I guess you could lower it on the fly for now.



If you turn Dolby Volume OFF for every Source there is no problem. You get the same high quality, ARC refined audio as before. No excess bass.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18062872
> 
> 
> Cool! That was an important bug to get fixed.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Bob that problem was corrected in 2.08 (FYI). As to the bass boost problem with Dolby Volume enabled I guess it will have to be addressed.


Regards,


----------



## Texas steve

True, but Im not sure what else I "gain"!!







. Now Im running the orginal 2.08



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18063457
> 
> 
> If you turn Dolby Volume OFF for every Source there is no problem. You get the same high quality, ARC refined audio as before. No excess bass.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/18063478
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Bob that problem was corrected in 2.08 (FYI). As to the bass boost problem with Dolby Volume enabled I guess it will have to be addressed.
> 
> 
> Regards,



I thought it was broken again in V2.08a.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite

I would like to download the new version right now, so we get too much bass with 2.08d? I would still install it as long as the Dolby Volume makes all outgoing audio the same level. Is this the case?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18063524
> 
> 
> I would like to download the new version right now, so we get too much bass with 2.08d? I would still install it as long as the Dolby Volume makes all outgoing audio the same level. Is this the case?



I don't know. The excess bass is too annoying to test the volume leveling properly.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18063537
> 
> 
> I don't know. The excess bass is too annoying to test the volume leveling properly.
> 
> --Bob



That bad is it? Can the bass not be turned down?


----------



## Warpdrv

Hey at least the sun is coming up on the horizon here... I am not a beta tester but I am thrilled to be finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel for the DV release...


I think that deserves some cookies right there... Hooray to Anthem !!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18063160
> 
> 
> The Leveling adjustment (default value 9) is found in Source Setup for each Source. The default value is apparently mandated by Dolby and is very aggressive -- i.e., nearly max volume leveling. But leveling doesn't seem to be the problem. The problem is that the bass boost is turned up too high regardless of leveling.
> 
> 
> The Level Calibration menu appears to be badly broken. I can't get to the Dolby Offset line to produce a test tone to try. Every time I try, whether or not Dolby Volume is turned on in the most recently chosen Source, it switches it to NA and skips over it.
> 
> 
> I've also had failures where every line produces a test tone from the LF speaker -- the tone itself being at the wrong volume.
> 
> 
> So something is screwed up in the Level Calibration menu. Off to send an email to Nick.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18063504
> 
> 
> I thought it was broken again in V2.08a.
> 
> --Bob



No, it has been working fine with 2.08a.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks using "test" V2.08d who are worried about not being able to get a test tone from Level Calibration > Test Level, I believe you will able to use the following as a workaround:


1) Set Test Level to 0dB.


2) Set Test Mode to Manual.


3) Move to the Left Front speaker line and adjust it to yield 75dB SPL.


4) Press Back to turn off the test tone.


5) Transfer the value you found for LF to the Test Level line.


6) Put 0dB in the LF line.


Test Level should now be set correctly. If you also need to adjust the volume knob built-into your subwoofer you can now set Test Mode back to Manual, go down to a subwoofer line, set that line to 0dB, and adjust the volume knob in your subwoofer to yield 75dB SPL.


At this point you should be able to do and\\ ARC Measurement run using this setting of Test Level and this setting of the volume knob in your subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Good info, anyone find this setting on the D2v?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/18063748
> 
> 
> The parameter that needs adjusting is "ORL" output reference level. It's part of the Dolby Volume code. The question is whether the D2 has enabled access.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/18063748
> 
> 
> The parameter that needs adjusting is "ORL" output reference level. It's part of the Dolby Volume code. The question is whether the D2 has enabled access.



There are two user adjustable parameters in the V2.08d firmware.


On a per-source basis you can set the degree of volume leveling in 10 steps (or OFF). The default, 9, is near max.


NOTE: On a per-source basis you can also set Movie or Music mode which apparently sets parameters in the background. There is also a Half-Mode setting which defaults to ON and comes with a strong recommendation that it be left ON.


Meanwhile, on a global basis, there is a "Dolby Offset" setting. The instructions say to adjust that using its test tone to yield 75dB SPL. However the test tone for it does not appear to be working in this firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I decided to try playing with Level Calibration > Dolby Offset blind, i.e., without the aid of a test tone.


First of all, it appears that Dolby Volume must be turned on (i.e., Movie or Music selected) for the Source selected prior to going into the Setup menu. Otherwise the Dolby Offset setting shows as NA and you can't change it.


As a guess, I decided that whatever is going wrong here is related to the apparent 6dB bug in ARC's use of the Level Calibration > Test Level setting.


As it turns out, setting Dolby Offset to +6dB does appear to significantly reduce the excess bass problem. This is using Movie Mode with Leveling set to the default value of 9 and Half Mode ON. I'm using my Comcast source for testing (Optical Digital cable for audio input).


There is still more bass than I think there should be, so I raised Dolby Offset to +10dB and that's where I'm testing now. There still seems to be more bass than should be "correct", but I'm getting closer.


ETA: It turns out the maximum setting for Dolby Offset is +15dB. Be careful, because if you go more one more step it flips over to -15dB and you are likely to startle yourself. I'm trying +15dB right now.


ETA 2: There's still too much base with Dolby Offset at +15dB. Something is definitely screwed up in this build. I put it back to 0dB and turned Dolby Volume OFF again. That sounds fine.

--Bob


----------



## jamulian

I have a question regarding the arc.

Once it has been set and you add a couple of chairs to the room for a movie, will that affect the arc setting? If so, can you save a couple of different settings and toggle back and forth between the two.

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/18064322
> 
> 
> I have a question regarding the arc.
> 
> Once it has been set and you add a couple of chairs to the room for a movie, will that affect the arc setting? If so, can you save a couple of different settings and toggle back and forth between the two.
> 
> Thanks.



Adding some furniture won't completely screw up your existing ARC setup. It will still be close. But yes, you will get better results if you set aside some time to re-Measure at some point.


You can not load two ARC setups and toggle between them. However, you can build several ARC results files and switch between them by Uploading whichever one you want to try next. Open the file in ARC's "Advanced" mode -- e.g., just double-click on the file -- and then just do an Upload. I recommend you write-protect your ARC results files so you don't accidentally modify them while they are open in ARC. Right-click on the file, select Properties from the pop-up menu, click on the Read Only check box, click on Apply and then click on OK.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18063863
> 
> 
> There are two user adjustable parameters in the V2.08d firmware.
> 
> 
> On a per-source basis you can set the degree of volume leveling in 10 steps (or OFF). The default, 9, is near max.
> 
> 
> NOTE: On a per-source basis you can also set Movie or Music mode which apparently sets parameters in the background. There is also a Half-Mode setting which defaults to ON and comes with a strong recommendation that it be left ON.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, on a global basis, there is a "Dolby Offset" setting. The instructions say to adjust that using its test tone to yield 75dB SPL. However the test tone for it does not appear to be working in this firmware.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. Turns out I used the wrong parameter in my post (now deleted), so rather than make another stab, I'm checking about it with a friend at Dolby. It may be that the Dolby Offset control is what I ought to have mentioned, and I'm glad to see it's available in the D2v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I got an email from Nick. They are working on the DV problems and right now it looks like a simple fix. Apparently some of the internal parameters got improperly set in this build. The problem with the test tones looks like it also has an easy fix. Stay tuned!


(This is why they call it "test" software!)

--Bob


----------



## panner

Hi, Im new here. Great forum BTW! I had the D2 and now I just got my new D2V installed and tweaked by a professional installer. My front speakers have powered subs on them, I also have a rear sub. The installer set the fronts to "large". When I had the D2 the fronts were "small" with the sub outputs split into the "sub-2" connection on the D2. Now with the D2v installed the front sub outputs are separate and plugged into the front L & R connection not "sub-2" anymore.


Is this normal? I find I'm not getting enough bass now. (I have a large room) It says something about if you have ARC do not use the "sub-2" input.


Sorry if this sounds confusing!


Shane


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Manual comment you cite has nothing to do with the Sub 2 output. What it says is that if you are using ARC you must set your speaker configuration to say you only have 1 subwoofer even if you actually have more then 1 wired up.

--Bob


----------



## panner

Thanks Bob...True, LOL I see that now. I guess I was concerned about how it sounded with the D2 VS D2v. Had alot more bass with D2, but it wasn't set up with the ARC. I guess I just have to trust the installer and the ARC LOL. Sorry I'm kind of new with the whole Anthem set up. I still have alot to learn.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Post your ARC charts and let's see if you have a problem.


You do need to trust your ears, but if you are not used to hearing corrected audio your ears may need some training.


That said, there are things that can be wrong which will undercut your bass. So let's see what ARC is reporting.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18063116
> 
> 
> I can't find in the manual how to do either. Bob seems to know how the first suggestion can be tried but for the second, beats me.
> 
> John



It is source dependent and as such the setting is in the source page.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18064186
> 
> 
> I decided to try playing with Level Calibration > Dolby Offset blind, i.e., without the aid of a test tone.
> 
> 
> First of all, it appears that Dolby Volume must be turned on (i.e., Movie or Music selected) for the Source selected prior to going into the Setup menu. Otherwise the Dolby Offset setting shows as NA and you can't change it.
> 
> 
> As a guess, I decided that whatever is going wrong here is related to the apparent 6dB bug in ARC's use of the Level Calibration > Test Level setting.
> 
> 
> As it turns out, setting Dolby Offset to +6dB does appear to significantly reduce the excess bass problem. This is using Movie Mode with Leveling set to the default value of 9 and Half Mode ON. I'm using my Comcast source for testing (Optical Digital cable for audio input).
> 
> 
> There is still more bass than I think there should be, so I raised Dolby Offset to +10dB and that's where I'm testing now. There still seems to be more bass than should be "correct", but I'm getting closer.
> 
> 
> ETA: It turns out the maximum setting for Dolby Offset is +15dB. Be careful, because if you go more one more step it flips over to -15dB and you are likely to startle yourself. I'm trying +15dB right now.
> 
> 
> ETA 2: There's still too much base with Dolby Offset at +15dB. Something is definitely screwed up in this build. I put it back to 0dB and turned Dolby Volume OFF again. That sounds fine.
> 
> --Bob



Bob I got the similar results yesterday night and decided to turn it off.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/18064322
> 
> 
> I have a question regarding the arc.
> 
> Once it has been set and you add a couple of chairs to the room for a movie, will that affect the arc setting? If so, can you save a couple of different settings and toggle back and forth between the two.
> 
> Thanks.



I found running ARC so cool and easy that everytime I move a piece of furniture in the room, I run ARC.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18064186
> 
> 
> I decided to try playing with Level Calibration > Dolby Offset blind, i.e., without the aid of a test tone.
> 
> 
> First of all, it appears that Dolby Volume must be turned on (i.e., Movie or Music selected) for the Source selected prior to going into the Setup menu. Otherwise the Dolby Offset setting shows as NA and you can't change it.
> 
> 
> As a guess, I decided that whatever is going wrong here is related to the apparent 6dB bug in ARC's use of the Level Calibration > Test Level setting.
> 
> 
> As it turns out, setting Dolby Offset to +6dB does appear to significantly reduce the excess bass problem. This is using Movie Mode with Leveling set to the default value of 9 and Half Mode ON. I'm using my Comcast source for testing (Optical Digital cable for audio input).
> 
> 
> There is still more bass than I think there should be, so I raised Dolby Offset to +10dB and that's where I'm testing now. There still seems to be more bass than should be "correct", but I'm getting closer.
> 
> 
> ETA: It turns out the maximum setting for Dolby Offset is +15dB. Be careful, because if you go more one more step it flips over to -15dB and you are likely to startle yourself. I'm trying +15dB right now.
> 
> 
> ETA 2: There's still too much base with Dolby Offset at +15dB. Something is definitely screwed up in this build. I put it back to 0dB and turned Dolby Volume OFF again. That sounds fine.
> 
> --Bob



So I tried Dolby Volume, and it was horrible. Louder, yes, but just bizarre sounding. It's more than just bass, it sounded almost like a tunnel to me.


I tried the dynamic setting briefly as well, and was not impressed.


Where do you set the offset? There was nothing in the manual that I could find, and I couldn't find any way to do it from the remote or front panel?


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18063756
> 
> 
> For folks using "test" V2.08d who are worried about not being able to get a test tone from Level Calibration > Test Level, I believe you will able to use the following as a workaround:
> 
> 
> 1) Set Test Level to 0dB.
> 
> 
> 2) Set Test Mode to Manual.
> 
> 
> 3) Move to the Left Front speaker line and adjust it to yield 75dB SPL.
> 
> 
> 4) Press Back to turn off the test tone.
> 
> 
> 5) Transfer the value you found for LF to the Test Level line.
> 
> 
> 6) Put 0dB in the LF line.
> 
> 
> Test Level should now be set correctly. If you also need to adjust the volume knob built-into your subwoofer you can now set Test Mode back to Manual, go down to a subwoofer line, set that line to 0dB, and adjust the volume knob in your subwoofer to yield 75dB SPL.
> 
> 
> At this point you should be able to do and\\ ARC Measurement run using this setting of Test Level and this setting of the volume knob in your subwoofer.
> 
> --Bob



Is this also the method used to pre-adjust ARC for a D2 v1.33? The only thing I need to clarify is line #5. If I follow the procedure and I end up with say +2.0 for the FL speaker then this is what I enter on the Test Level Line correct?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18067242
> 
> 
> Is this also the method used to pre-adjust ARC for a D2 v1.33? The only thing I need to clarify is line #5. If I follow the procedure and I end up with say +2.0 for the FL speaker then this is what I enter on the Test Level Line correct?



You don't have to do this extra shuffling for the D2 since there's no bug to deal with in the speaker calibration test tones menu in firmware V1.33.


Simply zero out every volume trim line in the Speaker Calibration list, go set Noise Level directly (test mode Manual) using your SPL meter, then scroll down to a subwoofer line, leave it at 0dB and adjust the volume knob built into your subwoofer. That's it. You are ready to do your first ARC Measurement run.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/18067024
> 
> 
> So I tried Dolby Volume, and it was horrible. Louder, yes, but just bizarre sounding. It's more than just bass, it sounded almost like a tunnel to me.
> 
> 
> I tried the dynamic setting briefly as well, and was not impressed.
> 
> 
> Where do you set the offset? There was nothing in the manual that I could find, and I couldn't find any way to do it from the remote or front panel?



Dolby Offset is a new line added to the Setup > Level Calibration menu.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18067770
> 
> 
> Dolby Offset is a new line added to the Setup > Level Calibration menu.
> 
> --Bob



Hmm... that seems like a lousy place for it - is this something you would set-and-forget for your room, or something that you'd want to change based on the content/source you're listening to?


----------



## LesPaul

I have been haveing an email exchange with the techs at Anthem about the ARC Target Frequencies vs. the D2v Crossovers. They have been very responsive but unfortunately I am still confused. I realize that the target frequencies that are shown in the advaced menu of the ARC program are not the same as the D2v crossover frequencies. But...


The target frequency for my sub was determined by ARC to be 120Hz but the D2v sub crossover was set at 70Hz with the ARC was uploaded. I asked Anthem how to change th2 70Hz cutoff to 80Hz. I realize that changeing these cutoff frequencies on the D2v when ARC is activated has no effect.


Anthem suggested that I force the targe sub frequency to 80Hz. I did and then recalculated and the target and calculated sub responses now have a much lower cut off frequency. It did not upload the results as I am not sure if it would move my D2v crossover cutoff to 80Hz and would accomplish what I wanted to do. It seems to me that it will actually reduce the frequency range from my original uploaded ARC values.


Does anyone have some insight on this issue?


Thanks for your help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/18068355
> 
> 
> Hmm... that seems like a lousy place for it - is this something you would set-and-forget for your room, or something that you'd want to change based on the content/source you're listening to?



My understanding is that it is something you set once and forget. It is a global setting based on your room and speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/18068674
> 
> 
> I have been haveing an email exchange with the techs at Anthem about the ARC Target Frequencies vs. the D2v Crossovers. They have been very responsive but unfortunately I am still confused. I realize that the target frequencies that are shown in the advaced menu of the ARC program are not the same as the D2v crossover frequencies. But...
> 
> 
> The target frequency for my sub was determined by ARC to be 120Hz but the D2v sub crossover was set at 70Hz with the ARC was uploaded. I asked Anthem how to change th2 70Hz cutoff to 80Hz. I realize that changeing these cutoff frequencies on the D2v when ARC is activated has no effect.
> 
> 
> Anthem suggested that I force the targe sub frequency to 80Hz. I did and then recalculated and the target and calculated sub responses now have a much lower cut off frequency. It did not upload the results as I am not sure if it would move my D2v crossover cutoff to 80Hz and would accomplish what I wanted to do. It seems to me that it will actually reduce the frequency range from my original uploaded ARC values.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have some insight on this issue?
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help.



The sub "cutoff" (ARC Targets window) indicates how high up in frequency ARC assigns resources for room correction of the sub output. Think of it as Max EQ Frequency for the subwoofer


The sub crossover (ARC Setup > Speaker Calibration > Bass Management Movie/Music, as Uploaded by ARC) sets the roll-off of the sub speaker response and is associated with bass steering to the sub from the other speakers. NOTE: LFE content is handled specially.


ARC has the flexibility to use different values for these. The crossover is set to best match with the main speakers so that the subwoofer can fill in underneath them as necessary. But the cutoff may be a different value according to how ARC wants to allocate its set of room correction resources and how high up it needs to get quality output from the sub as part of the room correction solution.


It is quite common for ARC to set a subwoofer "cutoff" which is higher than the subwoofer "crossover" it Uploads.


Generally speaking, it is unwise to fiddle with the cutoff and crossover values ARC picks for the subwoofer. I've seen a couple cases where it is necessary, but since a lot of what is going on in the bass processing is just a "black box", you may not get the result you were expecting if you fiddle with those two for the sub.

--Bob


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erchn* /forum/post/18057992
> 
> 
> .. Using REW I see no dip, though I'm only measuring one position.



How does your REW plots compare to your ARC plots? Do they match or are the plots different (besides the 15K)?


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## jamulian

Thanks for the comments. I just didn't want to re-calibrate the ARC whenever I had friends over to watch a movie. But, looks like that the only option I have.

Thanks.


----------



## obie_fl

You don't have to "re-calibrate" just re-upload. Truth is unless you have a lot of very massive friends or really big temporary chairs I doubt you would notice the difference.


----------



## panner

Here are my results. I think the installer has his results on his computer. I'm going to try and get them from him.


----------



## erchn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/18072093
> 
> 
> How does your REW plots compare to your ARC plots? Do they match or are the plots different (besides the 15K)?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim



They are different, but I believe it's due to the averaging(?) done by ARC of the various measurements.


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erchn* /forum/post/18077082
> 
> 
> They are different, but I believe it's due to the averaging(?) done by ARC of the various measurements.



Next time you measure, try measuring all 5 locations without moving the mic to eliminate the averaging.


It would be interested to see the deltas between the 2 measuring devices. You could also measure after the calibration has been applied using REW to see how the projected result matches the REW line.


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18068745
> 
> 
> The sub "cutoff" (ARC Targets window)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Generally speaking, it is unwise to fiddle with the cutoff and crossover values ARC picks for the subwoofer. I've seen a couple cases where it is necessary, but since a lot of what is going on in the bass processing is just a "black box", you may not get the result you were expecting if you fiddle with those two for the sub.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panner* /forum/post/18073499
> 
> 
> Here are my results. I think the installer has his results on his computer. I'm going to try and get them from him.



You need to do 1 thing before redoing ARC again, lower your front sub level by at least 13dB. I believe this causes ARC to set innacurate values and therefore wrong results.


You have to stay at the reference value of 75dB, you are at 87dB right now. Lower your front subs level first and this might be corrected also because right now you are working beyond the range where ARC can do its magic.


----------



## bluemark81

My last ARC measurement and upload was using version 2.3. I notice 2.4 is now available. Do I have to remeasure with 2.4 in order to use and upload files using 2.4?


----------



## barrygordon

In a Prior post from Bob he detailed the steps that should be done prior to running ARC. I am a little confused about speaker level adjustment which should be done before running ARC.


When adjusting the Test level, which speaker should be used to put out the test tone or does it not matter? I would assume that I should set the test tone level to get 75 db of SPL at the listenening position with the front center speaker set at a level of 0.


After getting the front center Speaker set properly all other speakers should be set with their level controls to get the same SPL.


The goal is to get all speakers showing an SPL of 7 db at the primary listening position. Won't that depend on how loud the test tone is set? So my question is 75 db of SPL for what loudness (volume) setting of the test tone? e.g. +3db (THX)?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/18083013
> 
> 
> In a Prior post from Bob he detailed the steps that should be done prior to running ARC. I am a little confused about speaker level adjustment which should be done before running ARC.
> 
> 
> When adjusting the Test level, which speaker should be used to put out the test tone or does it not matter? I would assume that I should set the test tone level to get 75 db of SPL at the listenening position with the front center speaker set at a level of 0.
> 
> 
> After getting the front center Speaker set properly all other speakers should be set with their level controls to get the same SPL.
> 
> 
> The goal is to get all speakers showing an SPL of 7 db at the primary listening position. Won't that depend on how loud the test tone is set? So my question is 75 db of SPL for what loudness (volume) setting of the test tone? e.g. +3db (THX)?




Zero out all the speaker level adjustments. Using the Left Front speaker adjust the noise level adjustment until you get 75db on your meter using C rating and it pointing up to the ceiling at the prime listening position. Then use the volume control on your sub to get 75 db. If you have two subs set each to 73db and this should give you 75 db when they are both on. ARC will correct all other speakers after you have downloaded the arc adjustment file.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/18082679
> 
> 
> My last ARC measurement and upload was using version 2.3. I notice 2.4 is now available. Do I have to remeasure with 2.4 in order to use and upload files using 2.4?



You do not. You can use 2.4 with your 2.3 results file.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18083472
> 
> 
> You do not. You can use 2.4 with your 2.3 results file.
> 
> --Bob



And 2.2, 2.1? Seems that nothing has really changed since 2.1?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/18083013
> 
> 
> In a Prior post from Bob he detailed the steps that should be done prior to running ARC. I am a little confused about speaker level adjustment which should be done before running ARC.
> 
> 
> When adjusting the Test level, which speaker should be used to put out the test tone or does it not matter? I would assume that I should set the test tone level to get 75 db of SPL at the listenening position with the front center speaker set at a level of 0.
> 
> 
> After getting the front center Speaker set properly all other speakers should be set with their level controls to get the same SPL.
> 
> 
> The goal is to get all speakers showing an SPL of 7 db at the primary listening position. Won't that depend on how loud the test tone is set? So my question is 75 db of SPL for what loudness (volume) setting of the test tone? e.g. +3db (THX)?



The idea is to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level ("Noise Level" in the D2 firmware). ARC uses the value in that line to set the volume of its test sweep tones and to adjust the basic volume level of the solution it builds. The other lines in Level Calibration are ignored by ARC during Measurement and replaced by ARC during Upload.


When you set Test Level, the test tone will come from your Left Front speaker. Measure using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter, set to Slow Response and "C" weighting, held at arm's length pointing straight up at seated ear height at ARC mic position #1 (center seating position).


The Test Level line and the line for the Left Front speaker interact, so my advice is to set ALL the lines in Level Calibration to 0dB before you start so as to avoid confusion. Then set Test Mode to Manual in the first line, scroll down to Test Level and set it to produce 75dB SPL.


Finally, leaving Test Level set that way scroll down to a subwoofer line, and leaving it at 0dB (as you set above), instead adjust the volume knob on your subwoofer to yield 75dB SPL measured the same way. This insures your subwoofer is already roughly in balance with your main speakers.


You don't have to do anything else with any of the other lines in Level Calibration. ARC will set those for you.


Ballpark settings are fine for both of these as ARC will determine the precise speaker volume trims and Upload them for you. You only have to set this stuff the first time as ARC doesn't change the Test Level line when it does its Upload and ignores all the other lines produced by any prior Upload -- assuming you don't change your room or speakers or subwoofer volume knob setting yourself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/18083511
> 
> 
> And 2.2, 2.1? Seems that nothing has really changed since 2.1?



Probably.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panner* /forum/post/18073499
> 
> 
> Here are my results. I think the installer has his results on his computer. I'm going to try and get them from him.



You've got some work to do here.


First of all, the volume settings on the satellite subwoofers you have attached to LF and RF are WAY too high. This has forced ARC to set a VERY high crossover value for LF/RF so that it can use the crossover roll-off to try to eliminate all that excess bass. And even with that it was not able to do so which means you have residual errors high in bass for LF/RF. Nasty.


You need to bring those satellite subs down perhaps as much as 20dB.


------------------------------------


AFTER you do that, follow the procedure described in the post above to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level to yield 75dB, and then also adjust the volume knob in your stand-alone subwoofer.


-----------------------------------


Your stand-alone subwoofer is Measuring as good only down to about 35Hz. Now this is not awful for a home theater sub, but there are plenty of subs which will go another octave lower. In your sub, make sure you don't have a subsonic filter turned on which is artificially reducing its lowest frequency output. This may be a setting that you are told to turn on if the subwoofer is placed close to a wall or corner. If you find that, turn it off.


While you are at it, check the high frequency output of your stand-alone subwoofer. It is possible its internal crossover is still engaged. If you can't disable its internal crossover altogether (sometimes a switch, sometimes a separate input jack) crank it up to the highest possible frequency setting to get it out of the way as much as possible.


-------------------------------------


All 4 of your surround speakers are weaker in bass than I'd like to see, particularly since your stand-alone subwoofer doesn't go up all that high. Your Rear Surrounds are weaker in bass than your Side Surrounds. Check them to see if there is a configuration option for getting more bass out of them -- perhaps a bass port that you need to open.


If they have separate input jacks for bass and treble, make sure both pairs of jacks are wired. Typically this is done by buss bars connecting the two pairs of jacks together at the back of the speaker.


-------------------------------------


Your Center speaker is showing a pretty dramatic Measured dip at 200Hz. There's no real sign of this in the other speakers so it looks like it is specific to Center. The first thing to check is how Center is positioned. For example, some Center speaker designs need air space underneath them for proper low mid-range output.


Also, play some stereo content (e.g. a CD), set Mono All audio mode in the Anthem so all speakers are playing the same thing, and go put your ear up close to each individual driver element in Center to make sure all of them are firing and you haven't lost a mid-range driver.


-------------------------------------


ARC has found almost no Room Gain to preserve in your room, but it's Measurement of this is being influenced by the poor bass in your surrounds and the excessive bass in your LF/RF pair. So ignore that for now until you can tackle at least the LF/RF problem.


I wouldn't worry about your high frequencies just yet. Note that your dip is less pronounced in LF which suggests there may be an element of speaker pointing at work here. But again, leave that until you get the more serious problems (above) under control.


==================================


ETA: The bass problem in your LF/RF satellite subs is so profound that I'm concerned they may not be wired up correctly. Please describe in detail how the wiring works starting at the Anthem and ending at the satellite subs and their attached main speakers, including which TYPE of input output jacks you are using at each step (e.g., line level or speaker level).


If you are used to hearing un-corrected audio from your current setup, then the ARC solution will sound anemic in bass simply because your un-corrected solution is so over the top out of calibration in bass. In addition, the transition between your front speakers and your stand alone sub will sound odd simply because ARC is being forced to do so much correction. I would expect you to be hearing some dialog from the sub for example, which is not good.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18083472
> 
> 
> You do not. You can use 2.4 with your 2.3 results file.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


How do you do that? As soon as I try running 2.4, it expects me to run the measurement process.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/18083669
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> How do you do that?



There's no trick to it. Once ARC V2.4 is installed, just open your existing results file (produced using ARC V2.3) and do whatever you want, including a re-Upload if that's what you want.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm surprised we don't have new, Dolby Volume "Test" firmware yet. The bug fixes for V2.08d must have turned out to be a bit more complicated than they first thought.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/18083669
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> How do you do that? *As soon as I try running 2.4, it expects me to run the measurement process.*



When you start ARC V2.4, select "Advanced" mode (gets you to the charts view). Then Open your existing results file in the File menu.


If Windows did its job correctly on the ARC install, I believe you can also just double-click on your results file to start the ARC application with that file already Open.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18083680
> 
> 
> There's no trick to it. Once ARC V2.4 is installed, just open your existing results file (produced using ARC V2.3) and do whatever you want, including a re-Upload if that's what you want.
> 
> --Bob



Still not getting it. If I open up a results file produced using 2.3, how do I then use 2.4 to recalculate and upload?


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18083700
> 
> 
> When you start ARC V2.4, select "Advanced" mode (gets you to the charts view). Then Open your existing results file in the File menu.
> 
> 
> If Windows did its job correctly on the ARC install, I believe you can also just double-click on your results file to start the ARC application with that file already Open.
> 
> --Bob



ok, thanks Bob. I knew I had done it before, but had a synapse node failure here. Thanks again.


----------



## panner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18083622
> 
> 
> You've got some work to do here.
> 
> 
> First of all, the volume settings on the satellite subwoofers you have attached to LF and RF are WAY too high. This has forced ARC to set a VERY high crossover value for LF/RF so that it can use the crossover roll-off to try to eliminate all that excess bass. And even with that it was not able to do so which means you have residual errors high in bass for LF/RF. Nasty.
> 
> 
> You need to bring those satellite subs down perhaps as much as 20dB.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> AFTER you do that, follow the procedure described in the post above to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level to yield 75dB, and then also adjust the volume knob in your stand-alone subwoofer.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> Your stand-alone subwoofer is Measuring as good only down to about 35Hz. Now this is not awful for a home theater sub, but there are plenty of subs which will go another octave lower. In your sub, make sure you don't have a subsonic filter turned on which is artificially reducing its lowest frequency output. This may be a setting that you are told to turn on if the subwoofer is placed close to a wall or corner. If you find that, turn it off.
> 
> 
> While you are at it, check the high frequency output of your stand-alone subwoofer. It is possible its internal crossover is still engaged. If you can't disable its internal crossover altogether (sometimes a switch, sometimes a separate input jack) crank it up to the highest possible frequency setting to get it out of the way as much as possible.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> All 4 of your surround speakers are weaker in bass than I'd like to see, particularly since your stand-alone subwoofer doesn't go up all that high. Your Rear Surrounds are weaker in bass than your Side Surrounds. Check them to see if there is a configuration option for getting more bass out of them -- perhaps a bass port that you need to open.
> 
> 
> If they have separate input jacks for bass and treble, make sure both pairs of jacks are wired. Typically this is done by buss bars connecting the two pairs of jacks together at the back of the speaker.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Your Center speaker is showing a pretty dramatic Measured dip at 200Hz. There's no real sign of this in the other speakers so it looks like it is specific to Center. The first thing to check is how Center is positioned. For example, some Center speaker designs need air space underneath them for proper low mid-range output.
> 
> 
> Also, play some stereo content (e.g. a CD), set Mono All audio mode in the Anthem so all speakers are playing the same thing, and go put your ear up close to each individual driver element in Center to make sure all of them are firing and you haven't lost a mid-range driver.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ARC has found almost no Room Gain to preserve in your room, but it's Measurement of this is being influenced by the poor bass in your surrounds and the excessive bass in your LF/RF pair. So ignore that for now until you can tackle at least the LF/RF problem.
> 
> 
> I wouldn't worry about your high frequencies just yet. Note that your dip is less pronounced in LF which suggests there may be an element of speaker pointing at work here. But again, leave that until you get the more serious problems (above) under control.
> 
> 
> ==================================
> 
> 
> ETA: The bass problem in your LF/RF satellite subs is so profound that I'm concerned they may not be wired up correctly. Please describe in detail how the wiring works starting at the Anthem and ending at the satellite subs and their attached main speakers, including which TYPE of input output jacks you are using at each step (e.g., line level or speaker level).
> 
> 
> If you are used to hearing un-corrected audio from your current setup, then the ARC solution will sound anemic in bass simply because your un-corrected solution is so over the top out of calibration in bass. In addition, the transition between your front speakers and your stand alone sub will sound odd simply because ARC is being forced to do so much correction. I would expect you to be hearing some dialog from the sub for example, which is not good.
> 
> --Bob





Thanks Bob


My front subs in my main speakers are wired to the "main out audio" using the "front L and Front R" outputs. When I had the D2 they were split into the "sub 2" output. Which would be best?


----------



## obie_fl

Panner - I would say the way you have them wired now is correct if I'm understanding you correctly. I have powered woofers in my mains also, I find it helps to think of them as powered woofers and not subwoofers. Now before you do anything further go turn those powered woofers down about 20db as Bob recommended.

What brand are you mains?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panner* /forum/post/18083807
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob
> 
> 
> My front subs in my main speakers are wired to the "main out audio" using the "front L and Front R" outputs. When I had the D2 they were split into the "sub 2" output. Which would be best?



Please give more details. For example I presume there is a power amp between the Anthem and these speakers. And how are the subs connected to their main speakers? I'm looking for something simple you may have messed up in the way these combo speakers are wired up. So list it all out -- inputs going to outputs from end to end.

--Bob


----------



## panner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18083931
> 
> 
> Panner - I would say the way you have them wired now is correct if I'm understanding you correctly. I have powered woofers in my mains also, I find it helps to think of them as powered woofers and not subwoofers. Now before you do anything further go turn those powered woofers down about 20db as Bob recommended.
> 
> What brand are you mains?



They are Boston Acoustics VR975's.


----------



## obie_fl

I'll take a stab and guess he is running low level all the way to the mains powered woofer and a separate amplified run to the upper portion of the mains. If he could also tell us the model of the mains it would be helpful.


Personally I never had luck running that way and just run the amplified signal to the woofer plate amp and then jumper it to the top of the mains. Of course that is assuming he has high level inputs available on his built in woofer amp.


ETA lemme take a look at the BA specs.

ETA2 Couldn't find a manual but I did find this quote regarding the woofer amp gain control in a review.


> Quote:
> Setting this control is crucial to the low-end balance
> 
> of this system. We found that the subs required
> 
> far less “juice” than the setting of the knob would
> 
> suggest. This setting took us some time to get right,


----------



## panner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18083960
> 
> 
> Please give more details. For example I presume there is a power amp between the Anthem and these speakers. And how are the subs connected to their main speakers? I'm looking for something simple you may have messed up in the way these combo speakers are wired up. So list it all out -- inputs going to outputs from end to end.
> 
> --Bob



Yes there is an amp between. I'm running the Anthem P2 for the fronts (using balanced) and the P5 for everything else (also balanced). Just speaker wires from the fronts to the P2 and an RCA from fronts to the "Front R&L" on the D2v, for the built in subs. And of course balanced cables from amps to D2v.


Sorry again im really new to this.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panner* /forum/post/18084566
> 
> 
> Yes there is an amp between. I'm running the Anthem P2 for the fronts (using balanced) and the P5 for everything else (also balanced). Just speaker wires from the fronts to the P2 and an RCA from fronts to the "Front R&L" on the D2v, for the built in subs. And of course balanced cables from amps to D2v.
> 
> 
> Sorry again im really new to this.



What is the position of the BASS/Sub level on the VR975? They should be at 9 o clock position as per Boston's recommendations. Although you are using RCA's which are 6dB less sensitive than the Balanced route, you have 2 subs than will sum both output and will be very near ideal level.


----------



## panner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18084653
> 
> 
> What is the position of the BASS/Sub level on the VR975? They should be at 9 o clock position as per Boston's recommendations. Although you are using RCA's which are 6dB less sensitive than the Balanced route, you have 2 subs than will sum both output and will be very near ideal level.



Yeah they are too high, they were at the 12 o clock position. This is frustrating as the installer did all the adjustments and set it up, and now I seem to be having all these issues.


Thanks for all your patience! Much appreciated!


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panner* /forum/post/18084702
> 
> 
> Yeah they are too high, they were at the 12 o clock position. This is frustrating as the installer did all the adjustments and set it up, and now I seem to be having all these issues.
> 
> 
> Thanks for all your patience! Much appreciated!



Since you are using "large" for these speakers, I don't think you have to run a separate RCA to them since the speakers have a crossover to take care of the low frequencies that will automatically directed to your built in subs. All of your connection will also be balanced then and no sensitivity mismatch will arise. Still the 9 o clock position is best for you.


After doing this, you have to run ARC again and post your results.


----------



## panner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18084751
> 
> 
> Since you are using "large" for these speakers, I don't think you have to run a separate RCA to them since the speakers have a crossover to take care of the low frequencies that will automatically directed to your built in subs. All of your connection will also be balanced then and no sensitivity mismatch will arise. Still the 9 o clock position is best for you.
> 
> 
> After doing this, you have to run ARC again and post your results.



Would that be the best way? keep them at large? Thats easy then, just run the speaker wires to the P2 then the balanced to the D2v (no sub RCA to the D2v). Set at 9 o clock, and run ARC. Also I did notice the standalone sub was using its internal cross over, I changed that to "bypass internal x over" and the polarity was set at 180.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panner* /forum/post/18084841
> 
> 
> Would that be the best way? keep them at large? Thats easy then, just run the speaker wires to the P2 then the balanced to the D2v (no sub RCA to the D2v). Set at 9 o clock, and run ARC. Also I did notice the standalone sub was using its internal cross over, I changed that to "bypass internal x over" and the polarity was set at 180.



Yes, if you hear a signal from the internal sub, then you are set to go. You did the right thing in bypassing the stand alone sub's crossover to bypass and if it is at the rear of your room chances are, 180 is the correct value.


----------



## obie_fl

Ah found the manual for the BA's finally. Yep looks like you just need the speaker output from your P2 hooked up since you are running large. I'd keep them that way unless you got a new more capable dedicated subwoofer. Then you might consider crossing the mains small with a very low crossover frequency. But looking at the graphs your mains seen very capable at low frequency just need to get that gain under control.


ETA Just be aware your mains powered woofers won't be getting any LFE. That isn't necessarily a bad thing as long as your dedicated sub is up to the task.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panner* /forum/post/18084566
> 
> 
> Yes there is an amp between. I'm running the Anthem P2 for the fronts (using balanced) and the P5 for everything else (also balanced). Just speaker wires from the fronts to the P2 and an RCA from fronts to the "Front R&L" on the D2v, for the built in subs. And of course balanced cables from amps to D2v.
> 
> 
> Sorry again im really new to this.



Well there's part of the problem right there. You are using satellite subs on LF/RF without the assistance of a crossover. That is you are sending a full range signal both to, say LF and the satellite sub on its side which means you are getting double output at any frequency they can both reproduce.


The Anthem and ARC can't help because as far as they can tell you have a single speaker on the LF output which just happens to be badly designed.


If you truly want to run a satellite sub then you need to have just one output from the Anthem through the power amp and to the speaker and it's sub. Either the speaker or the sub has to implement a crossover so that the sub plays the bass and speaker plays the rest. Most commonly you will send speaker level output from the power amp to a speaker level input on the sub which will extract the bass it wants to play and pass what's left as speaker level output to its attached main speaker.


In addition to setting the volume of the satellite sub, you also need to set the frequency of its crossover and its phase (to match the phase of its attached main speaker).


In your case you may want to get your installer back in there and have a talk with him about doing it right.


I really dislike combo speaker setups like this because they add all sorts if complexity for little gain over "normal" speakers used with a good, traditional, stand alone subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## panner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18085223
> 
> 
> Ah found the manual for the BA's finally. Yep looks like you just need the speaker output from your P2 hooked up since you are running large. I'd keep them that way unless you got a new more capable dedicated subwoofer. Then you might consider crossing the mains small with a very low crossover frequency. But looking at the graphs your mains seen very capable at low frequency just need to get that gain under control.
> 
> 
> ETA Just be aware your mains powered woofers won't be getting any LFE. That isn't necessarily a bad thing as long as your dedicated sub is up to the task.



Yeah I figured my mains woofers wouldnt be getting any LFE. That was my concern at first, as I do have a large room and originally the main subs were hooked up to the "sub 2" output on the Anthem. But I guess as Bob pointed out, I'm pretty use to the large LFE from technically 3 subs. The dedicated sub should be capable.


----------



## panner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18085249
> 
> 
> Well there's part of the problem right there. You are using satellite subs on LF/RF without the assistance of a crossover. That is you are sending a full range signal both to, say LF and the satellite sub on its side which means you are getting double output at any frequency they can both reproduce.
> 
> 
> The Anthem and ARC can't help because as far as they can tell you have a single speaker on the LF output which just happens to be badly designed.
> 
> 
> If you truly want to run a satellite sub then you need to have just one output from the Anthem through the power amp and to the speaker and it's sub. Either the speaker or the sub has to implement a crossover so that the sub plays the bass and speaker plays the rest. Most commonly you will send speaker level output from the power amp to a speaker level input on the sub which will extract the bass it wants to play and pass what's left as speaker level output to its attached main speaker.
> 
> 
> In addition to setting the volume of the satellite sub, you also need to set the frequency of its crossover and its phase (to match the phase of its attached main speaker).
> 
> 
> In your case you may want to get your installer back in there and have a talk with him about doing it right.
> 
> 
> I really dislike combo speaker setups like this because they add all sorts if complexity for little gain over "normal" speakers used with a good, traditional, stand alone subwoofer.
> 
> --Bob




Sorry Bob, I'm kind of confused as how I would achieve on output from the Anthem to the P2and then to the speaker?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panner* /forum/post/18085463
> 
> 
> Sorry Bob, I'm kind of confused as how I would achieve on output from the Anthem to the P2and then to the speaker?



If neither your LF/RF speakers nor your satellite subs have a speaker level input and output which is processed through a crossover then you can't.


In which case you should give up trying to operate your front subs as satellites. I.e., run LF/RF as "normal" speakers and run your 2 front subs as stand-alone subs. You may not even need your rear sub.


Run the LF/RF output of the Anthem to your power amp and thence to your LF/RF speakers. Have no connection between those speakers and your front subs. Run Sub 1 and Sub 2 outputs from the Anthem to the line level inputs on your front subs -- one wire to each.


Do not run LF/RF as full range.


Leave your rear sub unconnected to start. You may not need it.


Prior to your next ARC run, set Setup > Speaker Configuration to 1 SUB (leave it this way since that's what ARC needs).


Disengage the internal crossover in each front sub or crank it up to the highest possible frequency. Leave it set that way. Change the crossover for the sub and for LF/RF in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Bass Management Movie/Music to 80hz (to help in setting sub phase below). Also set the Sub speaker distance to be correct for your 2 front subs.


Then zero out all the lines in Setup > Level Calibration. Then set Test Mode to Manual in the first line and scroll down one to the Test Level line. A test tone will be coming from your Left Front speaker.


Adjust Test Level to yield 75dB SPL.


Now scroll down to a subwoofer line. Leave it at 0dB. Power off one of your 2 Front subs and adjust the volume knob on the live sub to yield 72dB (not 75dB). Now switch which sub is powered on and adjust the volume knob on the other sub to also yield 72dB. When these 2 subs play together you will get 75dB.


Now again with only one sub powered at a time, adjust the Polarity and Phase controls in each front sub to match the Phase of your LF speaker. See the post links in the first post of this thread. NOTE: Since your current ARC solution is so screwy, turn Room EQ OFF for the Source you are using for this and use Movie for Bass Manager for this. NOTE: You can not use the sub Polarity/Phase settings in the Anthem since there are not separate settings for the 2 sub outputs. You must use controls in each front sub.


Now go do a new ARC run using LF/RF normally and using your 2 front subs as a pair of normal, stand-alone subs.


ARC will use your Test Level value to set the basic solution volume, and the volume knob settings in your 2 front subs will have them already close to proper volume. The Polarity and Phase settings in the 2 front subs will have them not only in proper Phase with LF, but also with each other.


ARC will Upload proper speaker volume trims and crossover frequencies. So the only extra step you'll need is to turn Room EQ back on in the Source you used shen setting Phase for the 2 front subs.

--Bob


----------



## panner

Thanks Bob, I get it now. That is how it was originally wired with my D2. It just recently got changed when we hooked up the D2v. Now what about my rear standalone sub. I would set it the same as the other subs, and get them all 3 to fire at 75db total. (if needed) Also there is no way to disengage the cross overs. Just have the one dial. So turn it up? And I guess i would then change the fronts to "small".


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes, the trick is to preset volume and phase separately using the controls built into each sub and realizing that the sub volume outputs add (logarithmically).


ARC hears the set of subs playing together as a single sub.


It would be best to daisy chain the 2 front subs or run an XLR sub output from the Anthem to the rear sub rather than y-Splitting to drive the 2 front subs.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Not to disagree with Bob but as I said earlier I would treat the built-in "subs" as powered woofers not subwoofers from a system viewpoint. At least that is how I have had the best luck with my powered woofer mains. There are advantages to keeping stereo bass and LFE separated. Again this assumes a competent standalone sub for LFE and any redirected bass from the Center or Surrounds.

ETA Bob the built-in sub amps don't have polarity just gain controls.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sure, but to use them as true satellite subs (or powered woofers as you would describe it) he has to figure out how to wire them so that there is a real crossover between the satellite sub and the main speaker. I.e., the sub output rolls off above the crossover AND the main speaker output rolls off below the crossover. Without that, you can't have a clean transition between the sub and the attached main speaker.


If he can't figure a way to wire them so that crossover processing happens, then he really shouldn't use them as satellite subs.


-----------------------------------


It is best to use subs that have BOTH an internal Phase and an internal Polarity adjustment. The Polarity adjustment is most important if you have more than one subwoofer, but is helpful even if you only have one. Phase operates only near the crossover frequencies while Polarity operates across the entire frequency range (but is only selectable between Normal and Inverted). Although Phase alone may be sufficient to match a sub to a main speaker near the crossover, if you have more than one sub, particularly if one is in the front of the room and the other is in the rear of the room, you will likely need to invert Polarity on one of them so that the two subs are in proper phase with each other across all bass frequencies, not just near the crossover.


And since flipping Polarity is not the same thing as swinging Phase around 180 degrees (since Phase operates over a limited frequency range), it is sometimes the case that you'll find the combo of best Phase for one Polarity works better than the combo of best Phase for the other Polarity.

--Bob


----------



## panner

Well I am pretty limited on the fronts as all they have is gain controls. The rear sub i have set at 180 polarity.


----------



## obie_fl

If I understand the BA's properly if he has the high level inputs connected to the built-in amp it is using the built-in crossover. It is crossed over to the passive mids at 150hz. I'm assuming he forces the mains large so I'm not sure why he needs a crossover on the mains. In other words full range L&R with no LFE. I'm likely missing something but I went through similar scenarios a few years back with my powered mains. If I had to do it all over again I'd skip the powered woofers and get three standalone Subs, one for left and right stereo and a dedicated LFE monster. This is also why my biggest feature request from Anthem would be for a 7.3 system.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18088430
> 
> 
> If I understand the BA's properly if he has the high level inputs connected to the built-in amp it is using the built-in crossover. It is crossed over to the passive mids at 150hz. I'm assuming he forces the mains large so I'm not sure why he needs a crossover on the mains. In other words full range L&R with no LFE. I'm likely missing something but I went through similar scenarios a few years back with my powered mains. If I had to do it all over again I'd skip the powered woofers and get three standalone Subs, one for left and right stereo and a dedicated LFE monster. This is also why my biggest feature request from Anthem would be for a 7.3 system.



If you aren't feeding the mains with the high-pass output of a crossover, how do you know they are rolling off below 150Hz? If they AREN'T rolling off at 150Hz, and if the "powered woofer" is playing everything below 150Hz AS WELL, then you've got double output below 150Hz at least until the point where the mains actually do roll off naturally on their own.


That's what he had in his original wiring. He was sending full range L/R to the mains and also sending full range L/R to the satellite subs, but the subs were rolling off at some high point -- perhaps the 150Hz you mentioned.


Instead what you want is, e.g., to send full range L/R to the satellite subs (speaker level voltage from the power amps), have the subs extract the bass they are going to play, and have the subs pass on whatever is above that to the attached main speaker. I.e., the main speaker is wired FROM THE SUB (speaker level output from the sub) and there is NO WIRE from the power amps or the D2v to LF/RF.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

If I'm reading the BA manual correctly when you use the high level input jacks on the powered woofer amp it is crossed at 150hz (fixed) and hi passed to the passive mid driver. The low pass


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18089124
> 
> 
> If I'm reading the BA manual correctly when you use the high level input jacks on the powered woofer amp it is crossed at 150hz (fixed) and hi passed to the passive mid driver. The low pass


----------



## panner

So in you opinion how should I hook it up? Sorry for all the confusion. It would have been a lot easier with just standalone fronts with no powered subs.


----------



## obie_fl

Panner - In my system I have just the speaker level (high coming out the P2 in your case) hooked up and mains set to Large/Full Range. You will be depending on your standalone sub to do all LFE duties this may not be the best way but it is fairly simple setup which sometimes is the best.


Bob P has ideas that are not without merit and if you read much around here you will find that you ignore Bob P at your own peril.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Panner,

The choice is based on how competent your LF/RF are without satellite subs attached. If on their own they are good down to at least 80hz (60hz would be better) then my recommendation would be to run LF/RF by themselves and use your front subs as stand alone, perhaps with your rear 3rd sub added into the mix.


But if LF/RF can't get down that far you probably do need to use your front subs as satellite subs (e.g., as powered woofers for LF/RF).


By the time you get down to 80hz, bass isn't localizable, so you don't need to worry about stereo bass. But if you need the sub to handle higher bass then that's an issue, as is dialog getting steered to the sub.


You can do an ARC run specifying just 2.1 speakers and with the front subs wired up as stand alone as I described yesterday. The resulting charts will show how well LF/RF do on their own. If they are too weak below 150hz, then re-wire the fronts as satellite subs with LF/RF getting input only from the high pass output of the attached satellite sub.


Then do an ARC run specifying only a 2.0 speaker setup and see if your combo style LF/RF speakers now look right.


Whichever way works better, then add in your other speakers and do an ARC run with them as well so you can start addressing the other problems.

--Bob


----------



## panner

Ok thanks. My main concern before was I wasn't getting enough LFE from my standalone. Originally, the idea from the installers point of view when we were building our house and home theater, was that the room was too big for one standalone sub. That is why they did it with the technically "3 subs" on the sub outputs on my older D2. I will try both ways and run ARC from the start again. I did notice today that when they installed the new D2v, none of the settings on the standalone or the fronts were touched. The gains were turned up high and as I posted earlier the internal crossover of the rear sub was engaged.


----------



## panner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18089511
> 
> 
> Panner,
> 
> The choice is based on how competent your LF/RF are without satellite subs attached. If on their own they are good down to at least 80hz (60hz would be better) then my recommendation would be to run LF/RF by themselves and use your front subs as stand alone, perhaps with your rear 3rd sub added into the mix.
> 
> 
> But if LF/RF can't get down that far you probably do need to use your front subs as satellite subs (e.g., as powered woofers for LF/RF).
> 
> 
> By the time you get down to 80hz, bass isn't localizable, so you don't need to worry about stereo bass. But if you need the sub to handle higher bass then that's an issue, as is dialog getting steered to the sub.
> 
> 
> You can do an ARC run specifying just 2.1 speakers and with the front subs wired up as stand alone as I described yesterday. The resulting charts will show how well LF/RF do on their own. If they are too weak below 150hz, then re-wire the fronts as satellite subs with LF/RF getting input only from the high pass output of the attached satellite sub.
> 
> 
> Then do an ARC run specifying only a 2.0 speaker setup and see if your combo style LF/RF speakers now look right.
> 
> 
> Whichever way works better, then add in your other speakers and do an ARC run with them as well so you can start addressing the other problems.
> 
> --Bob



Perfect! sounds good. Thanks!


Oh and of course leave the fronts as "large".


----------



## jayray

Just toying with the idea of using dual subs and wondering what benefits there are other than equalizing freq. at more locations in a room. I have attached my sub measurements for anyone who might want to comment on how much benefit I might get. If less has to be done by ARC for the sub, are there more resources for the other speakers? I have room on my side walls, approx. equal distance from back to front, to install dual subs. My present Servo (1500 W RMS, 4500 W dynamic, DIN 12 Hz.) and wondered if a new studio Sub 15 could be paired with it. The Sub 15 (1700 W RMS, 3500 W, dynamic, 12 Hz. DIN)

thanks,

John


----------



## Warpdrv

jayray.... dual sealed subs should be easy for ARC to integrate into your system....


I have 4 Sealed subs and they were extremely difficult to get up and running. They are all DIY, so no adjustments on them to make, which there is no way for ARC to overcome. I had to use a Behringer DCX2496 to set EQ, Phase, polarity, distance, and gains with alot of measuring to accomplish this task. The results were spectacular and made a huge difference for me.


Personally I believe that measuring and EQ'ing your subs before ARC steps in really takes the burden of ARC working the LFE channel and frees up ARC to concentrate on other areas and be more effective. It made all the difference in the world for my setup... where others will tell you to let ARC handle everything...


If you choose to add a second sub, just make sure you get your subs setup properly before running ARC, by getting phase, polarity and gain set right... It will make a world of difference for you...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/18090314
> 
> 
> jayray.... dual sealed subs should be easy for ARC to integrate into your system....
> 
> 
> I have 4 Sealed subs and they were extremely difficult to get up and running. They are all DIY, so no adjustments on them to make, which there is no way for ARC to overcome. I had to use a Behringer DCX2496 to set EQ, Phase, polarity, distance, and gains with alot of measuring to accomplish this task. The results were spectacular and made a huge difference for me.
> 
> 
> Personally I believe that measuring and EQ'ing your subs before ARC steps in really takes the burden of ARC working the LFE channel and frees up ARC to concentrate on other areas and be more effective. It made all the difference in the world for my setup... where others will tell you to let ARC handle everything...
> 
> 
> If you choose to add a second sub, just make sure you get your subs setup properly before running ARC, by getting phase, polarity and gain set right... It will make a world of difference for you...



WarpDrv,

thanks for your advice. As I mentioned, my sidewalls are available to place the subs. From my reading, these are one of the best places to locate them. Aside from eq. freq. for more seating positions, what effect did they have on your SPL, tightness and low freq. extension?

thanks,

John


----------



## panner

Here is my results on running the 2.1 speakers.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panner* /forum/post/18090551
> 
> 
> Here is my results on running the 2.1 speakers.



Why not set the crossover as full range? It's throwing away their bass capability with a 60 Hz crossover.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panner* /forum/post/18090551
> 
> 
> Here is my results on running the 2.1 speakers.



Clarify please. Is this with your 2 front subs wired as stand alone and the rear sub disconnected? That is, is the Measured bass response from LF /RF their inherent response with no satellite sub assist? And is the .1 response that of your 2 front subs working together?


-------------------------


You've got a significant room resonance at 30hz which ought to respond to some speaker repositioning -- e.g., away from the nearest wall / corner. Even inches can matter at these frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## panner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18091152
> 
> 
> Clarify please. Is this with your 2 front subs wired as stand alone and the rear sub disconnected? That is, is the Measured bass response from LF /RF their inherent response with no satellite sub assist? And is the .1 response that of your 2 front subs working together?
> 
> 
> -------------------------
> 
> 
> You've got a significant room resonance at 30hz which ought to respond to some speaker repositioning -- e.g., away from the nearest wall / corner. Even inches can matter at these frequencies.
> 
> --Bob



Yes Bob, they are wired that way,stand alone with the rear sub disconnected. The front speakers are close to the outer walls in my room. So I should probably move them in a bit?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panner* /forum/post/18091166
> 
> 
> Yes Bob, they are wired that way,stand alone with the rear sub disconnected. The front speakers are close to the outer walls in my room. So I should probably move them in a bit?



Yes, try to find a nice location that also reduces that Measured peak at 30hz.


Now I would not recommend you run LF/RF as Full Range since even though they Measure quite low, they may not be capable of high volume that low. However, particularly as you clean up that 30hz peak, I believe you can lower their "cutoff" Target, perhaps close to 25hz. That means the sub will only fill under them for the subsonics below 30hz.


You may also want to try forcing some Room Gain at the same time. Try 2dB of Room Gain.


Do the speaker positioning experiments first. Play with Targets afterwards. You ought to be able to raise Max EQ Frequency to good effect as well.


I really don't think you need satellite subs given the low end of your mains. So I'd recommend you leave things wired as now -- with the front subs as standalone.


Next, add in the rear sub to make sure it blends well. Then add Center and fix any problems with it. Finally tackle the surrounds.

--Bob


----------



## panner

Perfect, so you would say the fronts are cleaned up alot now, just some minor tweaks? When I add in the rear sub, I should bring the db down in all 3 so that they all equal 75db when played together?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The positioning experiments for the fronts are more than a minor tweak, but yes you are closing in on a good place to be.


Yes on the subs. Try 69 or 70 dB for each of the 3 subs. AFTER setting the 3 sub volume knobs, I suggest you lower Test Level an additional 5 dB as you are still coming in a bit hot for the basic volume level of the solution. Probably the 6dB bug we've discussed here.


The confirmationof sub levels is whether ARC Uploads a sub volume trim close to 0dB when you eventually Upload a solution to the Anthem.


You might also try moving the subs CLOSER to a wall or corner to get a little extra boost at 20hz.

--Bob


----------



## panner

Alright, I will do all that, and repost later. I really appreciate all the help.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18091223
> 
> 
> Now I would not recommend you run LF/RF as Full Range since even though they Measure quite low, they may not be capable of high volume that low. However, particularly as you clean up that 30hz peak, I believe you can lower their "cutoff" Target, perhaps close to 25hz. That means the sub will only fill under them for the subsonics below 30hz.



The integrated L/R subs are not carrying the LFE, as he is using a separate sub for that. So driving the mains as full range ought to be no problem at sane playback levels, especially after ARC reduces the bass signals 5-15 dB. But it would indeed be fruitful to make sure the bass


----------



## panner

I can't seem to get that 30hz peak under control. I've moved the speakers as much as I can without interfearing with other stuff in the room.


----------



## Macu

About buzz-from-D2-power-supply-with-step-down-transformer problem I want to tell here about unacceptable behaviour (or plain incompetence) from Anthem tech support. Before buying my D2 from private person in US, I wanted to find out if there could be any problems in using step down transformer and 50 Hz vs. 60 Hz voltage. These are replies from Anthem support via email: "an external step-down transformer (min. 150W capacity) can be used." "..there is no reason to worry unless the transformer is of unusually low quality" (then I asked if 50 Hz voltage can cause any problems like buzz) "It's no problem - the only difference as far as our products are concerned is that 50 Hz causes the transformer to run slightly warmer with the lower frequency (all transformers do this)." So these replies were the main reason I trusted that it's safe and non-problematic to use D2 via step down transformer.


Now, I contacted the guy who sold me the D2 and explained the buzz problem. He contacted the dealer from which D2 was bought, and they contacted Anthem. The reply dealer got from Anthem was totally opposite from what I got. Quote from mail I got from my seller: "They said it won't work in your country even if you use 120 volts because you need 60 cycles instead of 50 cycles . They said you probably ruined the power supply and the processor and the only way of finding out would be to ship the unit back." I can only say: WTF!














One of those two people at Anthem's are terribly wrong and if it's the latter one that is correct, how nice to me that this error of the first one cost me nearly 5000 USD! Well, so far the unit is working normally in normal use (the few days that I have been using it), so it doesn't seem "ruined" yet, and the buzz bothers only when putting ear close to unit. But if it's really so that 50 Hz can "ruin" or break the D2, then I'm going to be fu**ed with it in some foreseeable future I guess.










Sooo.. now, if there are ANY people here that have ever used D2 via step down transformer or otherwise educated-on-subject, puh-lease give some opinions on this!


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panner* /forum/post/18091669
> 
> 
> I can't seem to get that 30hz peak under control. I've moved the speakers as much as I can without interfearing with other stuff in the room.



You need acoustic treatments.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Macu* /forum/post/18092327
> 
> 
> About buzz-from-D2-power-supply-with-step-down-transformer problem I want to tell here about unacceptable behaviour (or plain incompetence) from Anthem tech support. Before buying my D2 from private person in US, I wanted to find out if there could be any problems in using step down transformer and 50 Hz vs. 60 Hz voltage. These are replies from Anthem support via email: "an external step-down transformer (min. 150W capacity) can be used." "..there is no reason to worry unless the transformer is of unusually low quality" (then I asked if 50 Hz voltage can cause any problems like buzz) "It's no problem - the only difference as far as our products are concerned is that 50 Hz causes the transformer to run slightly warmer with the lower frequency (all transformers do this)." So these replies were the main reason I trusted that it's safe and non-problematic to use D2 via step down transformer.
> 
> 
> Now, I contacted the guy who sold me the D2 and explained the buzz problem. He contacted the dealer from which D2 was bought, and they contacted Anthem. The reply dealer got from Anthem was totally opposite from what I got. Quote from mail I got from my seller: "They said it won't work in your country even if you use 120 volts because you need 60 cycles instead of 50 cycles . They said you probably ruined the power supply and the processor and the only way of finding out would be to ship the unit back." I can only say: WTF!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of those two people at Anthem's are terribly wrong and if it's the latter one that is correct, how nice to me that this error of the first one cost me nearly 5000 USD! Well, so far the unit is working normally in normal use (the few days that I have been using it), so it doesn't seem "ruined" yet, and the buzz bothers only when putting ear close to unit. But if it's really so that 50 Hz can "ruin" or break the D2, then I'm going to be fu**ed with it in some foreseeable future I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sooo.. now, if there are ANY people here that have ever used D2 via step down transformer or otherwise educated-on-subject, puh-lease give some opinions on this!



I am from the Philippines and my first Anthem product was an AVM50 plugged into a 110v receptacle (we are 220v here BTW). My dealer uses an Automatic voltage regulator to test his first batches of Anthems with no problem. I would believe your first communication with Anthem is spot on. There might be something wrong with the power supply in the first place. Anyway you can directly plug the D2 into a dedicated 110-120v outlet just to be sure?


If the D2 has some sort of a motor in it, then there might be a problem as it can make the rotation out of whack but since no moving part is concered, I don't see any problem with 50hz.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/18092342
> 
> 
> You need acoustic treatments.



I would say lots of thick bass traps to help with the 30hz peak.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *panner* /forum/post/18091669
> 
> 
> I can't seem to get that 30hz peak under control. I've moved the speakers as much as I can without interfearing with other stuff in the room.



The standing wave might be vertical. Try raising LF/RF a few inches (e.g., attach their feet or spikes if not already attached).


But typically if you can't find a location which decouples the speakers from the room resonance your next recourse is to try bass traps on the corners and wall behind them.


ARC has things pretty much under control down there already, and it might even work better if you lower the LF/RF cutoff a bit and raise Room Gain so that the energy being produced down there is allowed to be used, but still it is worth some effort to see if you can tame that room resonance and give ARC less work to do down there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Macu* /forum/post/18092327
> 
> 
> About buzz-from-D2-power-supply-with-step-down-transformer problem I want to tell here about unacceptable behaviour (or plain incompetence) from Anthem tech support. Before buying my D2 from private person in US, I wanted to find out if there could be any problems in using step down transformer and 50 Hz vs. 60 Hz voltage. These are replies from Anthem support via email: "an external step-down transformer (min. 150W capacity) can be used." "..there is no reason to worry unless the transformer is of unusually low quality" (then I asked if 50 Hz voltage can cause any problems like buzz) "It's no problem - the only difference as far as our products are concerned is that 50 Hz causes the transformer to run slightly warmer with the lower frequency (all transformers do this)." So these replies were the main reason I trusted that it's safe and non-problematic to use D2 via step down transformer.
> 
> 
> Now, I contacted the guy who sold me the D2 and explained the buzz problem. He contacted the dealer from which D2 was bought, and they contacted Anthem. The reply dealer got from Anthem was totally opposite from what I got. Quote from mail I got from my seller: "They said it won't work in your country even if you use 120 volts because you need 60 cycles instead of 50 cycles . They said you probably ruined the power supply and the processor and the only way of finding out would be to ship the unit back." I can only say: WTF!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of those two people at Anthem's are terribly wrong and if it's the latter one that is correct, how nice to me that this error of the first one cost me nearly 5000 USD! Well, so far the unit is working normally in normal use (the few days that I have been using it), so it doesn't seem "ruined" yet, and the buzz bothers only when putting ear close to unit. But if it's really so that 50 Hz can "ruin" or break the D2, then I'm going to be fu**ed with it in some foreseeable future I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sooo.. now, if there are ANY people here that have ever used D2 via step down transformer or otherwise educated-on-subject, puh-lease give some opinions on this!



The standard, low voltage power supply in units sold in North America is rated for 108-132 volts at 60Hz (only) according to the specifications in the back of the Manual.


The high voltage power supply in units typically sold in Europe is rated for 216-264 volts at EITHER 50Hz or 60Hz again according to the Manual.


At the worst I would think you would need to purchase a replacement, high voltage power supply from Anthem to swap into your unit.

--Bob


----------



## barrygordon

I know that most of the posts here are related to audio, but I am having a video issue. Unit is an Anthem AVM-50v running FW 2.08. If anyone can shed some light on this I will be most appreciative.


Situation:

I am watching a STB/DVR conected over component @ 1080i with no issues, picture and audio are fine. I change sources to a blu ray changer over HDMI @1080p60. No issues, picture and sound are fine. I switch back to the STB audio comes on but no picture. Projector does NOT report signal out of range or no siganl. Anthem display shows input at 1080i. I wait a long time (minutes), no change. I then put the Anthem in standby and then back to Power On and the picture appears. Since the STB is feeding its signal over component it has no idea that the Anthem changed anything. This does not happen every time but many times when switching back to the STB after using the Blu Ray changer.


It is not a cable issue as aside from this switching issue the picture and sound along the entire chain is perfect.


Any help/thoughts appreciated.


----------



## barrykeck

I just upgraded my AVM50 to v1.33. The upgrade went fine. This is my problem. I have my DirectTV box set to ouput in native resolution. When I change channels that are broadcast in HD, the Anthem takes a few seconds but the picture comes up on the TV. When I switch to a SD channel - nothing but blue screen. The Anthem remains in the blue screen mode even if I switch back to an HD channel. If I enter setup menu and exit setup mode the SD channel will display. It appears the Anthem hangs-up every time I switch from HD to SD channels or vica-versa. Here are my SAT1 settings.


sat1 settings


video out config: 1

scaler input: HDMI1


videoout config 1 settings


s-v osd :ntsc

Pref : HDMI

res : 1920 x 1080p60

color Sp : auto

data : auto

lb : black

sync : normal

compnt2 out: processed


I hope someone can help. I can force the DirectTV to upscale all channels, but it does a terrible job on the SD channels. Thanks


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Macu* /forum/post/18092327
> 
> 
> Now, I contacted the guy who sold me the D2 and explained the buzz problem. He contacted the dealer from which D2 was bought, and they contacted Anthem.



Interesting story (we never got the alleged contact) and the end of it as far as I'm concerned if you cannot hear the buzz from further than a few inches away. If there's more please contact Andrew, Piero and I, collectively known as tech at anthemav dot com. Your original step-down transformer question has been answered by us many times for many people through many years.


Buzz from this close is normal for practically anything that uses a switching power supply, and that includes all D2s. Flat panel TVs too - buzz is easily heard through the vents on the back. Some D2s also use toroidal transformers. For reasons the FAQ touches on, buzz is not unusual with them either.


----------



## Macu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/18094608
> 
> 
> Interesting story (we never got the alleged contact) and the end of it as far as I'm concerned if you cannot hear the buzz from further than a few inches away. If there's more please contact Andrew, Piero and I, collectively known as tech at anthemav dot com. Your original step-down transformer question has been answered by us many times for many people through many years.
> 
> 
> Buzz from this close is normal for practically anything that uses a switching power supply, and that includes all D2s. Flat panel TVs too - buzz is easily heard through the vents on the back. Some D2s also use toroidal transformers. For reasons the FAQ touches on, buzz is not unusual with them either.



From your nickname I assume that you are the one who replied my original email questions. So you say there has not been phonecall from any Anthem dealer past few weeks that has concerned using D2 via step down transformer and buzz problem? If that's true, then my seller has lied to me and I owe apology to you (meaning whole Anthem tech support). However about the buzz problem: I measured that buzz can be heard from at least 24 inches distance in room that is not entirely quiet. That is not normal, right? I have read the FAQ in Anthem's website and I tried turning all lights off and unplugged all electrical equipment (except fridge) in my apartment, but that didn't affect the buzz. Also when comparing to other amps I have (and have had in past also with toroidal transformer), they have not made such buzz in this same apartment so why would D2 do so? I mean, if 50 Hz causes it ok, but you said it doesn't cause anything else than warming. Also other people here have said, that they have used Anthem amps via step down transformer and not heard buzz. So could it still be possible that there is problem with my D2's power supply?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

With 120V 60 Hz was the buzz different? All we know is that this unit left the factory anywhere from early 2006 to late 2008, after which anything is possible. The seller said that the dealer said that tech support said... this has no meaning. There isn't enough info to conclude anything and unless the seller has satisfaction guarantee with full refund, your options are to use the D2 as you got it or send it here for inspection. My recommendation is to use it and if anything gets worse then contact tech at anthemav dot com. It's rare that a local distributor would service anything not purchased through them, even non-warranty, but you can always check (it's their option).


----------



## Macu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/18095473
> 
> 
> With 120V 60 Hz was the buzz different? All we know is that this unit left the factory anywhere from early 2006 to late 2008, after which anything is possible. The seller said that the dealer said that tech support said... this has no meaning. There isn't enough info to conclude anything and unless the seller has satisfaction guarantee with full refund, your options are to use the D2 as you got it or send it here for inspection. My recommendation is to use it and if anything gets worse then contact tech at anthemav dot com. It's rare that a local distributor would service anything not purchased through them, even non-warranty, but you can always check (it's their option).



Yes, ok. My biggest concern here is/was that the unit will break down totally just by using it with 50 Hz voltage. As this information wasn't correct, I can live with the rest of the presented choices.


----------



## barrygordon

Is there another Anthem D2v or 50v thread that discusses video issues or do we just post those here also?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/18094286
> 
> 
> I know that most of the posts here are related to audio, but I am having a video issue. Unit is an Anthem AVM-50v running FW 2.08. If anyone can shed some light on this I will be most appreciative.
> 
> 
> Situation:
> 
> I am watching a STB/DVR conected over component @ 1080i with no issues, picture and audio are fine. I change sources to a blu ray changer over HDMI @1080p60. No issues, picture and sound are fine. I switch back to the STB audio comes on but no picture. Projector does NOT report signal out of range or no siganl. Anthem display shows input at 1080i. I wait a long time (minutes), no change. I then put the Anthem in standby and then back to Power On and the picture appears. Since the STB is feeding its signal over component it has no idea that the Anthem changed anything. This does not happen every time but many times when switching back to the STB after using the Blu Ray changer.
> 
> 
> It is not a cable issue as aside from this switching issue the picture and sound along the entire chain is perfect.
> 
> 
> Any help/thoughts appreciated.



Next time it fails, try this: See if you can bring up the Setup menu on screen. The Setup menu is implemented as an internally generated S-Video source (480i). (If you have any other analog video input sources, see if they also fail.)


If Setup fails as well it suggests the video input digitizing has crashed (and thus your need to power-cycle to fix it). If you can go back to the Blu-Ray or other HDMI video input and that works, but all analog video input is still not working then that's what's going on.


Give Anthem tech support the details. This could be a firmware bug, but the fact that we are not seeing more reports like this suggests the problem is in your video board. Anthem may ask you to re-install the firmware on top of itself "just in case". There WAS a firmware bug like this in the V2.07x firmware releases, but it is supposed to have been fixed in V2.08.


Also, is your Blu-Ray sending "Deep Color" video to the Anthem -- e.g., 30 or 36 bits per pixel?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrykeck* /forum/post/18094429
> 
> 
> I just upgraded my AVM50 to v1.33. The upgrade went fine. This is my problem. I have my DirectTV box set to ouput in native resolution. When I change channels that are broadcast in HD, the Anthem takes a few seconds but the picture comes up on the TV. When I switch to a SD channel - nothing but blue screen. The Anthem remains in the blue screen mode even if I switch back to an HD channel. If I enter setup menu and exit setup mode the SD channel will display. It appears the Anthem hangs-up every time I switch from HD to SD channels or vica-versa. Here are my SAT1 settings.
> 
> 
> sat1 settings
> 
> 
> video out config: 1
> 
> scaler input: HDMI1
> 
> 
> videoout config 1 settings
> 
> 
> s-v osd :ntsc
> 
> Pref : HDMI
> 
> res : 1920 x 1080p60
> 
> color Sp : auto
> 
> data : auto
> 
> lb : black
> 
> sync : normal
> 
> compnt2 out: processed
> 
> 
> I hope someone can help. I can force the DirectTV to upscale all channels, but it does a terrible job on the SD channels. Thanks



There are things we could try that will simplify the HDMI handshake -- e.g., using an explicit HDMI Data setting in the Video Output configuration rather than Auto (typically you would use YCbCr 4:4:4).


But really, for a cable or satellite set top box the easiest answer is to switch to using Component video and Optical Digital audio input instead of HDMI input. I believe you can still use Native from the DirecTV box with it hooked up that way.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/18096240
> 
> 
> Is there another Anthem D2v or 50v thread that discusses video issues or do we just post those here also?



Post your video questions here.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18096426
> 
> 
> Post your video questions here.
> 
> --Bob



I think you answered his video question already Bob, just to note that I still have the odd occurrence when switching from SD to HD and visa vera, my picture does not come in. I am patiently waiting for a new firmware to see if it gets fixed. It is better with 2.08 but you can see that it has been made to attempt more than once to get video. With 2.07 sometimes the video would not come in and with 2.08 it usually does but I always see a totally purple screen as it flashes then tries again. Approximately once every week or so it doesn't make it in and I have to power cycle the D2v. Also, I have done all that you have suggested, no auto settings and such. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18096501
> 
> 
> I think you answered his video question already Bob, just to note that I still have the odd occurrence when switching from SD to HD and visa vera, my picture does not come in. I am patiently waiting for a new firmware to see if it gets fixed. It is better with 2.08 but you can see that it has been made to attempt more than once to get video. With 2.07 sometimes the video would not come in and with 2.08 it usually does but I always see a totally purple screen as it flashes then tries again. Approximately once every week or so it doesn't make it in and I have to power cycle the D2v. Also, I have done all that you have suggested, no auto settings and such. Thanks



If you are using HDMI then this purple flash could just be a cabling issue causing a handshake retry.


In his case the problem was with an analog video input (Component 1080i) which is what makes me think it might be a variation of the firmware problem previously reported in V2.07.


For HDMI issues, V2.08a (and presumably V2.08d) "test" firmware contains some adjustments in the HDMI parameters that may also help.

--Bob


----------



## barrygordon

Thanks for the replies Bob and studlygoorite.


I did a bit of work for Anchor Bay Technologies with their scalers so I know a bit more about video than audio.


The BR changer is putting out deep color (36 bits) but I can tell it not to or to follow the source.


The projector will accept either 24fps or 60fps. so I can have the anthem use 2 video configs with different fps rates


Anthem suggested I configure the system to run the BR changer @ 1080p24 (as their manual suggests). The Changer allows me to set the output resolution as fixed (it then scales) to 1080p24 or 1080p60; or to run it Auto so it will put out 1080p24 if the disc is at 1080p24 or else it will upconvert the disc source to 1080p60. It does a good job at this. I did as they suggested as I always try to do what the support staff advises.


Logically I do not see the need. If I tell the changer to output 1080p60 all the time the Anthem should be happy, after all what does it know. It sees 1080p60 and has no way of ascertaining it is from a BR disc. I will be happy as the Sony does a very good job of cadence detection which is trivial in the case of a BR disc as it always 24fps, judder control and 3:2 pulldown conversion.


So the real issue in my mind still remains. I am getting very significant delays on source switching, some cases when switching from BR to STB being infinite. My STB's come in on Component and they should snap in very quickly but do not. I allow the STB's to output whatever is transmitted causing the Anthem to do all scaling. Since they are on component inputs there is NO HDCP handshaking involved so switching to them should be almost instantaneous as it is with the same STB connected to a Plasma TV over component. I need to try and see what happens if I force the STB to do the conversion as most things I watch are 1080i with a little 720p.


When the Anthem switches to an STB Source the audio comes in after about 1 second. The video lags behing by anything from 2-5 seconds, but I need to really measure it carefully. I can not see any reason for a scaler to take that long when HDCP is not involved.


Once agin thanks for the replies.


----------



## audiojack

I have an MV50v running v2.08. I have a direct tv sat box into it using HDMI cable. I have had few overall handshaking issues. However, about 15% of the time when I change a channel or play a program from list (a recorded show) the back 4 speakers drop audio. If I push mode on the remote and cycle to a different mode they come back on.


Its a bit annoying since generally I use a universal remote with the units all behind doors so I have to keep the doors open and the Anthem remote handy when I get set up to watch a show.


----------



## barrygordon

For about 18 months I steadfastedly insisted on running my STB's over HDMI causing me all sorts of annoyances. I was just being stubbron wanting digital all the way as much as possible.


There is actually very little to be gained and many headaches doing it over HDMI. I am now running the STB's over component. I can barely see any picture difference on a 10 foot wide screen at 1080p60. I know there must be some but at 15 feet I can not see it and that is where I sit. The anthem IMHO still has a few issues in this configuration as discussed above, but I am sure they will address them.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiojack* /forum/post/18096826
> 
> 
> I have an MV50v running v2.08. I have a direct tv sat box into it using HDMI cable. I have had few overall handshaking issues. However, about 15% of the time when I change a channel or play a program from list (a recorded show) the back 4 speakers drop audio. If I push mode on the remote and cycle to a different mode they come back on.
> 
> 
> Its a bit annoying since generally I use a universal remote with the units all behind doors so I have to keep the doors open and the Anthem remote handy when I get set up to watch a show.



There is a known issue where sometimes the Mode Preset does not get properly applied with 2.0 channel input.


So far I have not been able to make it fail with "test" V2.08d firmware so it may be fixed in there although the fix is not listed in change notes.


Until it is fixed, the best known workaround is as you found -- switch the audio mode to anything else and back.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/18096755
> 
> 
> Thanks for the replies Bob and studlygoorite.
> 
> 
> I did a bit of work for Anchor Bay Technologies with their scalers so I know a bit more about video than audio.
> 
> 
> The BR changer is putting out deep color (36 bits) but I can tell it not to or to follow the source.
> 
> 
> The projector will accept either 24fps or 60fps. so I can have the anthem use 2 video configs with different fps rates
> 
> 
> Anthem suggested I configure the system to run the BR changer @ 1080p24 (as their manual suggests). The Changer allows me to set the output resolution as fixed (it then scales) to 1080p24 or 1080p60; or to run it Auto so it will put out 1080p24 if the disc is at 1080p24 or else it will upconvert the disc source to 1080p60. It does a good job at this. I did as they suggested as I always try to do what the support staff advises.
> 
> 
> Logically I do not see the need. If I tell the changer to output 1080p60 all the time the Anthem should be happy, after all what does it know. It sees 1080p60 and has no way of ascertaining it is from a BR disc. I will be happy as the Sony does a very good job of cadence detection which is trivial in the case of a BR disc as it always 24fps, judder control and 3:2 pulldown conversion.
> 
> 
> So the real issue in my mind still remains. I am getting very significant delays on source switching, some cases when switching from BR to STB being infinite. My STB's come in on Component and they should snap in very quickly but do not. I allow the STB's to output whatever is transmitted causing the Anthem to do all scaling. Since they are on component inputs there is NO HDCP handshaking involved so switching to them should be almost instantaneous as it is with the same STB connected to a Plasma TV over component. I need to try and see what happens if I force the STB to do the conversion as most things I watch are 1080i with a little 720p.
> 
> 
> When the Anthem switches to an STB Source the audio comes in after about 1 second. The video lags behing by anything from 2-5 seconds, but I need to really measure it carefully. I can not see any reason for a scaler to take that long when HDCP is not involved.
> 
> 
> Once agin thanks for the replies.



This stuff is diagnostic. HDCP is not involved with component input but it IS involved if you are sending HDMI to the display. Thus you can have HDMI handshake delays even when the input is analog.


In any event, the issue with analog video input appears to he related to the type of input that PRECEEDED it. So the suggestion is that you try changing that to see if the problem goes away. That could lead to a firmware fix.

--Bob


----------



## barrygordon

I will do that, but let me ask you this. On the output side if nothing has changed that is there has been no disconnect or alteration of the output HDMI stream (resolution, frame rate, etc.) to the display, why should there ever be a handshake issue. Ideally (as the new chipsets will implement) the handhsake need not even be repeated just cached. I believe the handshake is repeated periodically during the connection but that does not involve any delays, so why if the output is constant ...


By the way when i switch between my two STB's there is no delay other than the audio lockon, and then immediatly the video snaps in. Whole switch takes about 1 second.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/18097417
> 
> 
> I will do that, but let me ask you this. On the output side if nothing has changed that is there has been no disconnect or alteration of the output HDMI stream (resolution, frame rate, etc.) to the display, why should there ever be a handshake issue. Ideally (as the new chipsets will implement) the handhsake need not even be repeated just cached. I believe the handshake is repeated periodically during the connection but that does not involve any delays, so why if the output is constant ...
> 
> 
> By the way when i switch between my two STB's there is no delay other than the audio lockon, and then immediatly the video snaps in. Whole switch takes about 1 second.



Something is triggering a retry. That's why you are seeing the delay.


HDCP on top of HDMI is designed to be finicky. That is the industry would rather subject you to retries than risk you could illegaly copy Porkys II.


I don't have enough info to know just why the operations you are doing generate handshakes, but I don't really find them surprising.


A retry will take about 2 seconds. Multiple retries take longer. Simplfying the handshake by not using Auto settings and improving your cabling can reduce handshakes, but probably not eliminate them completely.

--Bob


----------



## Macu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/18095473
> 
> 
> The seller said that the dealer said that tech support said... this has no meaning.



I still have to return to this issue a little though: it may not matter from technical point of view who said what and if the contact from dealer came to you or not but to me it matters what the truth is. I will be giving feedback to my seller also to Audiogon so I need to know if he has been honest with me or not. That's why I would like you to verify if the contact came from dealer. I assume you keep some kind of record of these contacts so you can easily check by units serial number.


----------



## audiojack

So far I have not been able to make it fail with "test" V2.08d firmware so it may be fixed in there although the fix is not listed in change notes.


Bob - thanks very much for the response; curious is the 'd' at the end of your v2.08 meaningful, in that is thier versions of 2.08 firmware in that maybe in my 2.08 its an issue but in yours it is not?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiojack* /forum/post/18099396
> 
> 
> So far I have not been able to make it fail with "test" V2.08d firmware so it may be fixed in there although the fix is not listed in change notes.
> 
> 
> Bob - thanks very much for the response; curious is the 'd' at the end of your v2.08 meaningful, in that is thier versions of 2.08 firmware in that maybe in my 2.08 its an issue but in yours it is not?




The first version was 2.08(official release) and the letter indicates which new beta version this is. It can only be downloaded from the password protected site at Anthem. They prefer we do not give out the password to ensure only those who should be installing beta software, do. Email Anthem tech if you think the new beta will work for you. The 2.08d is the latest.

John


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Macu* /forum/post/18098690
> 
> 
> I still have to....



Please refer to the Benny Hill definintion of assuming.


For closure here, my recommendation is for you to ease up on the knee-jerk feedback. It's possible that between yourself, your seller and his seller the question was misinterpreted, for example whether 230V can be fed to a 120V unit without toasting it. I'd leave all this alone - local businesses are not there to support private sales of used discontinued models going to the opposite voltage, and technical questions should come to the twice-mentioned e-mail address though for this I've given all the info I have.


----------



## Texas steve

Benny Hill was my idol!!!
































> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/18101110
> 
> 
> Please refer to the Benny Hill definintion of assuming.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New D2v/AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.08e (with Dolby Volume) Now on Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem has placed "test" firmware V2.08e on the password protected download page in versions for the D2v and the AVM 50v. This is the second Beta release for firmware that includes the long-awaited Dolby Volume feature.


Change Notes for releases since the last "official" firmware, V2.08, now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.08e beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Adjusted Dolby Volume reference level such that Music level is closer to Off level (Movie is louder).
> 
> 
> 2. Improved accuracy of day/time clock.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08d beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Preliminary version with Dolby Volume. The menu layout and algorithm is not final but it's close - this is just for anyone interested to get a feel for what's in store. For operating instructions open d2v_manual v2.1.pdf and type "Dolby Volume" in your pdf viewer's search box.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08a beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Updated OKI bootloader to reduce chance of a video board programming failure and support restoring non-functioning video boards when a serial strap is installed.
> 
> 
> 2. Changes to HDCP code.
> 
> 
> 3. Changes to impedance and drive strength settings for HDMI switches.



As always, "test" firmware is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises.


The release notes are quite sparse, so it is unclear which Dolby Volume and calibration test tone problems from V2.08d may have been fixed in this version. We'll just have to try it and see!

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18096384
> 
> 
> Next time it fails, try this: See if you can bring up the Setup menu on screen. The Setup menu is implemented as an internally generated S-Video source (480i). (If you have any other analog video input sources, see if they also fail.)
> 
> 
> If Setup fails as well it suggests the video input digitizing has crashed (and thus your need to power-cycle to fix it). If you can go back to the Blu-Ray or other HDMI video input and that works, but all analog video input is still not working then that's what's going on.
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support the details. This could be a firmware bug, but the fact that we are not seeing more reports like this suggests the problem is in your video board. Anthem may ask you to re-install the firmware on top of itself "just in case". There WAS a firmware bug like this in the V2.07x firmware releases, but it is supposed to have been fixed in V2.08.
> 
> 
> Also, is your Blu-Ray sending "Deep Color" video to the Anthem -- e.g., 30 or 36 bits per pixel?
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


This issue prevails and goes back to 2.07x. I just tried it going from using HDMI to component (DVD Jukebox) and got sound no picture. I reported this back then as well. This is why I refused to use component with my STB.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/18103355
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> This issue prevails and goes back to 2.07x. I just tried it going from using HDMI to component and got sound no picture. I reported this back then as well.
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph, so you are still getting this in the latest "test" firmware? I've not seen it myself for some time.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

[Thanks Bob, looking forward to the "reveiw". Interesting that they did not mention any of the other items that were on the list. I know Nick and them are working hard so Im sure it will all come in due time.


ote=Bob Pariseau;18103263]*New D2v/AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.08e (with Dolby Volume) Now on Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem has placed "test" firmware V2.08e on the password protected download page in versions for the D2v and the AVM 50v. This is the second Beta release for firmware that includes the long-awaited Dolby Volume feature.


Change Notes for releases since the last "official" firmware, V2.08, now read as follows:




As always, "test" firmware is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises.


The release notes are quite sparse, so it is unclear which Dolby Volume and calibration test tone problems from V2.08d may have been fixed in this version. We'll just have to try it and see!

--Bob[/quote]


----------



## NOCAL

I have the latest firmware in the Anthem v. 2.08 and whenever I play a Bluray in the Oppo and it Is set to Bitstream, the DTS light shows on the Anthem....

can't figure it out.


This has happened on more than one Bluray with TrueHD and yes I have set the option on the disc to output TrueHD when playing.


----------



## jayray

Installed firmware 2.08e without incident. Dolby volume for music is much better. Bass seemed just right. Movie produced more bass with music but in fairness I didn't get a chance to test it with a movie.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NOCAL* /forum/post/18103845
> 
> 
> I have the latest firmware in the Anthem v. 2.08 and whenever I play a Bluray in the Oppo and it Is set to Bitstream, the DTS light shows on the Anthem....
> 
> can't figure it out.
> 
> 
> This has happened on more than one Bluray with TrueHD and yes I have set the option on the disc to output TrueHD when playing.



Turn off Secondary Audio in the Oppo.


When Secondary Audio is enabled the Oppo has no choice but to use the lossy compatibility version of the audio track instead of the lossless track you are trying to play. An indicator of this is the waveform logo to the left of the audio track type (lower left corner) of the Oppo on-screen display instead of the normal, 3 overlapping circles logo.


This happens whether or not you have actually turned on a Secondary Audio feature on the disc you are currently playing.


The Oppo then re-encodes the (potentially mixed) audio back to higher bandwidth, but still lossy, traditional DTS for Bitstream output.


So that's why the Anthem is seeing DTS Bitstream input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

"Test" firmware V2.08e doesn't seem to be anything to get excited about.


The test tone menus are still badly broken -- both Level Calibration and the special bass test tones in the Room Resonance Filter section.


Dolby Volume = Movie still produces way too much bass. I've not yet tested with Dolby Volume = Music.


More testing to come to see if other stuff is broken, but the basic problems from the prior release are not fixed in this version.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18103366
> 
> 
> Ralph, so you are still getting this in the latest "test" firmware? I've not seen it myself for some time.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Yes (2.08d). I watched about 30 minutes of Blu-ray/cable. Switched over to my Sony DVD changer which is connected via component. Sound but no picture. Tried bringing up the Setup menu with no luck. Power cycling the Anthem corrects it.


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/18104254
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Yes (2.08d). I watched about 30 minutes of Blu-ray/cable. Switched over to my Sony DVD changer which is connected via component. Sound but no picture. Tried bringing up the Setup menu with no luck. Power cycling the Anthem corrects it.
> 
> 
> Regards,



I wonder what's different between your setup and mine? As you recall, in V2.07x we both had this problem, but I don't seem to be having it with V2.08.


Something is preventing the analog video input from being properly digitized apparently.

--Bob


----------



## barrygordon

I have added Video switch timing tests to my Theater control system. It starts a time test whenver the Anthem switches its input connection. This happens when I tell it to with my Pronto PRO Remote Control. I then press a button on the RC when I see the picture. I am gathering data at this time and will provide results shortly. I have done a lot of time testing on the "Switch" time as defined above between my two STB's both on component. The average is just about 4 secs for about 20 trials. The lowest was about 3, and the highest about 5.5. Bell shaped curve centered around 4 and fairly tight standard deviation.


----------



## Macu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/18101110
> 
> 
> Please refer to the Benny Hill definintion of assuming.
> 
> 
> For closure here, my recommendation is for you to ease up on the knee-jerk feedback. It's possible that between yourself, your seller and his seller the question was misinterpreted, for example whether 230V can be fed to a 120V unit without toasting it. I'd leave all this alone - local businesses are not there to support private sales of used discontinued models going to the opposite voltage, and technical questions should come to the twice-mentioned e-mail address though for this I've given all the info I have.



Ok well. As closure from my part.. I did assume you (the tech support) keep record of contacts because you did know to say such contact that I described by dealer was not made. Of course you can just have good memory (this was not sarcasm).







My seller said that the unit he sold me was new with full warranty, though I understand that in this case warranty doesn't apply. Anyway, I wasn't blaming my seller's dealer for anything, I simply wanted to know if my seller did what he claimed he did. I don't know him personally, nor do I know anybody personally at Anthem's. So when one party says one thing and other party other thing, one wants to know which one tells the truth. I think this is quite human behavior and probably such that any person in my situation would conduct. Maybe both parties were truthful and question really changed during its journey, I don't know. Anyway, I'll let this go now and concentrate on enjoying the D2. It's one heck of an amp after all!


----------



## audiojack

Nick - was wondering if there was a timeline for new production software. I noted an issue with losing the 4 back speakers when switching channels with a 2 channel source (in this case a sat box). I can get them back by cycling the mode. He also noted it might be fixed in one of the beta 2.08's but I would prefer to wait for new production software to update the unit. Thanks.


PS an email to this effect to tech at anthem (well sonic frontiers) went unanswered and you correctly are not taking PMs so thus the open question.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18103263
> 
> *New D2v/AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.08e (with Dolby Volume) Now on Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> Anthem has placed "test" firmware V2.08e on the password protected download page in versions for the D2v and the AVM 50v. This is the second Beta release for firmware that includes the long-awaited Dolby Volume feature.
> 
> 
> Change Notes for releases since the last "official" firmware, V2.08, now read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, "test" firmware is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises.
> 
> 
> The release notes are quite sparse, so it is unclear which Dolby Volume and calibration test tone problems from V2.08d may have been fixed in this version. We'll just have to try it and see!
> 
> --Bob



I will test this one tonight.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I tried Dolby Volume Music vs. OFF last night with "La Traviata" Blu-Ray -- a 5.1 DTS-HD track.

http://www.amazon.com/Traviata-Blu-r...5816055&sr=1-1 


This was with the default 9 setting for Dolby Leveling and 0dB for Dolby Offset.


You need to lower main volume by 5dB or so when Dolby Volume Music is turned on to get a subjectively equivalent volume level.


After doing this I did not notice excess bass during this production. The volume leveling was evident but not really all that distracting. You can follow along by pressing Select enough times to see the current dynamic volume adjustment Dolby Volume is applying scene by scene.


It was more evident that low volume scenes were being raised than that high volume scenes were being lowered. This was particularly obvious if there was ambient noise in the room. The low volume scenes could be followed clearly whereas they would be lost without Dolby Volume.


In the end, for critical listening, I preferred Dolby Volume OFF.


--------------------------------------


On the other hand, when I tried applying Dolby Volume Music to Comcast TV -- both 2 channel and 5.1 audio programs -- there was still too much bass. Enough so, that I couldn't really tolerate leaving it on long enough to check out how well the volume leveling was working.


The excess bass is much more obvious with Dolby Volume Movie. To me, that is still unlistenable.


-------------------------------------


It appears the trick, with Dolby Volume turned on, is to lower main volume significantly and trust to DV to keep quiet scenes at a level you can hear. I'm not at all sure it is supposed to act that way.


This might be adjustable with the Setup > Level Calibration > Dolby Offset setting, but since I can't get a test tone for that there's no way for me to test that except trying various settings blind.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiojack* /forum/post/18106595
> 
> 
> PS an email to this effect to tech at anthem (well sonic frontiers) went unanswered...



All sonicfrontiers e-mail accounts had their plug pulled a while ago, after several months of overlap with anthemav accounts. The inquiry form on www.anthemav.com , under tech support, is practically the same as e-mail.


Production software is released once all known or all showstopping issues are fixed - there is no schedule. The "mode preset doesn't work with stereo source" bug should be fixed for the next general release. Software can't always be fixed right away - we do a lot of it in-house but the bigger half comes from various chip makers, and some of their changes can throw a wrench in the rest of our system.


To all, I don't read everything here nor do my co-workers. I check when regular posters/readers sound a fire bell (I know you're wondering whether it's Bob and it isn't but he's amazing just the same). E-mails in our inbox, on the other hand, are almost always answered by end of next business day, the exception being when the answer itself needs time.


----------



## barrygordon

Nick, et. al.; you might get a chuckle reading my last post (an hour ago) in the Cary Cinema 11a thread


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18107376
> 
> 
> I tried Dolby Volume Music vs. OFF last night with "La Traviata" Blu-Ray -- a 5.1 DTS-HD track.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Traviata-Blu-r...5816055&sr=1-1
> 
> 
> This was with the default 9 setting for Dolby Leveling and 0dB for Dolby Offset.
> 
> 
> You need to lower main volume by 5dB or so when Dolby Volume Music is turned on to get a subjectively equivalent volume level.
> 
> 
> After doing this I did not notice excess bass during this production. The volume leveling was evident but not really all that distracting. You can follow along by pressing Select enough times to see the current dynamic volume adjustment Dolby Volume is applying scene by scene.
> 
> 
> It was more evident that low volume scenes were being raised than that high volume scenes were being lowered. This was particularly obvious if there was ambient noise in the room. The low volume scenes could be followed clearly whereas they would be lost without Dolby Volume.
> 
> 
> In the end, for critical listening, I preferred Dolby Volume OFF.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> On the other hand, when I tried applying Dolby Volume Music to Comcast TV -- both 2 channel and 5.1 audio programs -- there was still too much bass. Enough so, that I couldn't really tolerate leaving it on long enough to check out how well the volume leveling was working.
> 
> 
> The excess bass is much more obvious with Dolby Volume Movie. To me, that is still unlistenable.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> It appears the trick, with Dolby Volume turned on, is to lower main volume significantly and trust to DV to keep quiet scenes at a level you can hear. I'm not at all sure it is supposed to act that way.
> 
> 
> This might be adjustable with the Setup > Level Calibration > Dolby Offset setting, but since I can't get a test tone for that there's no way for me to test that except trying various settings blind.
> 
> --Bob



I downloaded 2.08e last night, it was my first firmware upgrade sice 2.08. I agree that the Dolby Volume Movie is too boomy, you should not hear the stage as the actors from 21/2 men walk across it.









I found that with Dolby Volume Music I could tolerate it if Dolby was set to min., still just a couple of hours last night is not enough time with it I still need to experiment. I also find that I need to adjust my main volume when switching sources as one would be louder than the other and it doesn't help that I re-ran ARC just before I went to 2.08e and changed from 20000 to 10000 so I have different sound there too. Will we know when the final firmware for Dolby Volume is out so we know what we have to work with, thinking this is not the last one but you never know? Just my 2 cents so far.

PS: Unfortunately I still cannot use AL Music as it still sounds like 7ch stereo and switching between inputs still takes too long as it re-tries, looks like 3 to 5 times. John


----------



## audiojack

Nick - thanks very much for the response. Interesting enough if you google anthem audio, you get directed to what looks like a 'test' version of the new site which is now buried as part of the new site. The site looks like the new site, but the url is a bit odd, and the tech support page is sonic frontiers. When you go to the short url that you posted in your response, the tech question is in the new form; rather than the old one just listing the email.

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/News2.html 


That's the url you get dumped on and then click under tech support and you can note why I went to the wrong place.


As this was my first question ever to tech at Anthem, I got to your website via search. Something of an FYI I guess.


I'll patiently wait for the new production version to fix my slightly annoying problem cause overall its one I can live with. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Some months back, Nick at Anthem sent me a copy of a demo disc put together by Dolby to show off Dolby Volume. It consists of a series of clips deliberately mismatched in volume -- e.g., racetrack level mics at a NASCAR race followed by acoustic guitar music, etc.


WITHOUT Dolby Volume this disc is really REALLY annoying to listen to.


Anyway, I just got around to trying it with Dolby Volume Movie (Leveling at default 9, and Offset at default 0dB), and somewhat to my surprise it actually sounded quite good! I played the DD5.1 track (there is also a stereo track for comparison).


There was none of the excess bass boominess that I was hearing when using my Comcast TV source. And the volume leveling was clearly working well in both directions.


Now it doesn't surprise me that the Dolby Volume stuff is well tuned for this demo disc. It must be, after all, something regularly used when QAing this stuff. What surprises me is that the Comcast input works so poorly when this demo disc works so well.


I'm using Optical Digital audio from the Comcast and HDMI from the player, but in both cases the digital audio is being bitstreamed so DD5.1 from Comcast should look the same to the D2v as DD5.1 from the Oppo.


I'm just starting to look at this closely, but it appears that part of the problem is that DV is boosting scenes from the Comcast box when it should either be leaving them alone or reducing them in volume. I don't know how it decides when a scene needs a boost or cut, but I'll bet there are some behind the scenes parameters that can be tweaked to adjust this.


Since from my point of view the major use of DV should be when watching TV content, this is something Anthem and Dolby really need to get right.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*THE CORRECT EMAIL ADDRESS FOR ANTHEM TECH SUPPORT IS...*

[email protected] 


If you forget this, you can always find it near the top of the first post in this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just got an email from Nick suggesting that folks using Dolby Volume in "test" firmware V2.08e will probably be happier if they just stick to using Dolby Volume Music instead of Movie regardless of the content type.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks Bob, I was going to load up "e" but think Ill hold till the next beta. I imagine given the issues it will be reasonably soon.







I know we are all looking forward to what has been printed on the front of our D2vs for quite some time!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18109833
> 
> 
> I just got an email from Nick suggesting that folks using Dolby Volume in "test" firmware V2.08e will probably be happier if they just stick to using Dolby Volume Music instead of Movie regardless of the content type.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Is anybody else shipping Dolby Volume yet? Do we have any basis for comparison yet as to whether Dolby Volume itself has problems, or if some of this stuff is simply the result of bugs in Anthem's Beta implementation?

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18109833
> 
> 
> I just got an email from Nick suggesting that folks using Dolby Volume in "test" firmware V2.08e will probably be happier if they just stick to using Dolby Volume Music instead of Movie regardless of the content type.
> 
> --Bob



I found another weird issue with 2.08d (haven't tested with 2.08e):


It seems to happen when switching in/out of HD audio formats. On my PCH, when I play an HD audio movie bitstreamed, it works fine. If I pause it for a while, or jump to another point in the movie directly (e.g. hitting 5 for 50%), I lose all audio. The D2v is reporting the right audio format, but nothing is coming out of it.


When I switch to another input, I get audio. When I switch back, it again reports the right audio format, and is playing video, but there is no sound.


The only way I found to fix it is to shut down the D2v and turn it back on. It then works fine.


This happened repeatedly, until I realized the Dolby Volume was input specific. So I turned it off on my PCH input, and it now works fine.


Weird?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That's interesting! I haven't noticed any audio initialization problems with Dolby Volume turned on in either V2.08d or V2.08e.


If you have a repeatable case, please email the details to Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## dhoff01

My new d2v arrived today. I'm psyched. Too bad I have to read through 26,825 posts to figure out how to use it...


----------



## Texas steve

Yea, then re-read them again once you got it fired up!! Enjoy!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhoff01* /forum/post/18110701
> 
> 
> My new d2v arrived today. I'm psyched. Too bad I have to read through 26,825 posts to figure out how to use it...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhoff01* /forum/post/18110701
> 
> 
> My new d2v arrived today. I'm psyched. Too bad I have to read through 26,825 posts to figure out how to use it...



I don't see why you need to read more than POST #1


----------



## dhoff01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18110776
> 
> 
> I don't see why you need to read more than POST #1



Sweet. Posting on this forum has already paid off...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Read the tutorial post links collected in the first post of this thread. Then start from the end of the thread and read backwards. Generally speaking, there's not much point reading more than about 3-6 months back in time as older posts are quite likely outdated anyway given firmware updates and the like.


Keep in mind that you can search within this thread if you are looking for specific information.

--Bob


----------



## dhoff01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18110805
> 
> 
> Read the tutorial post links collected in the first post of this thread. Then start from the end of the thread and read backwards. Generally speaking, there's not much point reading more than about 3-6 months back in time as older posts are quite likely outdated anyway given firmware updates and the like.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that you can search within this thread if you are looking for specific information.
> 
> --Bob



I'm thinking I start with the manual, or is that too old school? JK. Thanks for the tip(s). Post 1 and then backwards sounds like a plan...


----------



## Texas steve

"Men" dont read manuals remember!! Dont blow our cover!! the D2v is a great processor. Yep, read the manual then post one, set up, and from there the rest of the posts really help with the little things (and some not so little)! Enjoy!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhoff01* /forum/post/18110850
> 
> 
> I'm thinking I start with the manual, or is that too old school? JK. Thanks for the tip(s). Post 1 and then backwards sounds like a plan...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18110972
> 
> 
> "Men" dont read manuals remember!!



Not only is that TRUE but the Anthem User Interface is so EASY to use no one needs to read the Anthem Manual










That is what you call good Engineering Design


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Using the "test" V2.08e firmware, Dolby Volume Music seems to be working well for my Comcast TV input Source.


The trick is to get Setup > Level Calibration > Dolby Cal Level (used to be called Dolby Offset) adjusted correctly.


Subjectively, when "normal" scenes play at the same volume with Dolby Volume set to both Music and to OFF then the Cal Level is probably correct. One trick in testing this is that apparently the volume change takes effect immediately when you turn Dolby Volume OFF. But when you change it to Music it takes a few seconds before the volume change fully applies.


NOTE: Press the "0" (Dynamics) button on the remote once to view the current Dolby Volume mode setting, and use the Up/Down arrow keys to adjust it. This is your fastest way to switch between Dolby Volume Music and Dolby Volume OFF. Any change you make this way will take permanent effect in the Setup > Source Setup entry for the currently selected input Source device.


If Dolby Volume Music appears to be coming in too loud compared to OFF (again, for "normal" scenes), then RAISE Cal Level to compensate.


(Of course, all of this is only necessary since we can't get a proper calibration tone for Cal Level.)


In my setup it appears that a +6dB setting for Dolby Cal Level is about right. At a guess, this is likely due to the fact that I had to lower Test Level an extra 6dB to get my ARC solution to come in at 75dB -- the 6dB bug we've discussed here before.


With Dolby Cal Level set that way, my "usual" main volume settings for TV viewing appear to work well, but with the level reasonably balanced across different sorts of content and commercials.


I'm still not sure I like it, but that's possibly because I'm trying to find it screwing up, and so I'm sensitive to the lack of expected dynamic range changes.


Even with Cal Level raised like this, Dolby Volume Movie produces too much bass. So there's still something screwy going on with Movie.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18112798
> 
> 
> Using the "test" V2.08e firmware, Dolby Volume Music seems to be working well for my Comcast TV input Source.
> 
> 
> The trick is to get Setup > Level Calibration > Dolby Cal Level (used to be called Dolby Offset) adjusted correctly.
> 
> 
> Subjectively, when "normal" scenes play at the same volume with Dolby Volume set to both Music and to OFF then the Cal Level is probably correct. One trick in testing this is that apparently the volume change takes effect immediately when you turn Dolby Volume OFF. But when you change it to Music it takes a few seconds before the volume change fully applies.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Press the "0" (Dynamics) button on the remote once to view the current Dolby Volume mode setting, and use the Up/Down arrow keys to adjust it. This is your fastest way to switch between Dolby Volume Music and Dolby Volume OFF. Any change you make this way will take permanent effect in the Setup > Source Setup entry for the currently selected input Source device.
> 
> 
> If Dolby Volume Music appears to be coming in too loud compared to OFF (again, for "normal" scenes), then RAISE Cal Level to compensate.
> 
> 
> (Of course, all of this is only necessary since we can't get a proper calibration tone for Cal Level.)
> 
> 
> In my setup it appears that a +6dB setting for Dolby Cal Level is about right. At a guess, this is likely due to the fact that I had to lower Test Level an extra 6dB to get my ARC solution to come in at 75dB -- the 6dB bug we've discussed here before.
> 
> 
> With Dolby Cal Level set that way, my "usual" main volume settings for TV viewing appear to work well, but with the level reasonably balanced across different sorts of content and commercials.
> 
> 
> I'm still not sure I like it, but that's possibly because I'm trying to find it screwing up, and so I'm sensitive to the lack of expected dynamic range changes.
> 
> 
> Even with Cal Level raised like this, Dolby Volume Movie produces too much bass. So there's still something screwy going on with Movie.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the info. Bob, especially the note about pressing "0" (Dynamics) this is great help while tweaking.


Do you think the settings are "Source specific" or will one setting of the DV have the same effect on all sources to get the max volume equal across the board?


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhoff01* /forum/post/18110701
> 
> 
> My new d2v arrived today. I'm psyched. Too bad I have to read through 26,825 posts to figure out how to use it...



There is a summary of all the most important links on the first page of this thread.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhoff01* /forum/post/18110850
> 
> 
> I'm thinking I start with the manual, or is that too old school? JK. Thanks for the tip(s). Post 1 and then backwards sounds like a plan...



I never read manual except in some occassion before buying a components.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Anthem Manual for the D2v and AVM 50v is actually quite good compared to the vast majority of home theater equipment manuals out there.


It is certainly worth a read just to familiarize yourself with what's in there. And you should have a PDF file copy on your computer that you can use for reference when you need it. Keep in mind that the Table of Content entries are links so you can just click on them to get right to where you need to be. You can also search within the Manual although that's not all that efficient.

--Bob


----------



## audiojack

Dolby volume is implemented and works well in the Arcam AV888 and their 600 as well. Having said that, these babies have their own set of firmware issues, but not surrounding dolby volume.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiojack* /forum/post/18115234
> 
> 
> Dolby volume is implemented and works well in the Arcam AV888 and their 600 as well. Having said that, these babies have their own set of firmware issues, but not surrounding dolby volume.



Is it supposedly working well with TV program content? What parameters does it offer and how do folks who like it have it set?

--Bob


----------



## audiojack

There is a 5 or 6 paragraph discussion on page 42 of the AVR600 (888) owners manual available on the Arcam website. Its a pretty good explanation and has some implementation suggestions. I leave it off for the blu-ray player but I have it configured as per the manual for the sat box. Have not really played around with all that much however.


----------



## scanido

Anyone compare the D2V and AV888 on pure audio performance using digital sources??


I know the D2V ARC is much more comprehensive than the AV888, but this aside is audio performance also superior?


I really have no need for the video side.


THanks


----------



## audiojack

I have not done an exact a/b compare of the two in exactly the same set-up but I have 2 HT set-ups, one uses the M50v and the other uses the Arcam. Speakers are roughly comparable (linn) and the amps are also roughly the same (bel cantos) and both have Naim CD players attached to them which are not exactly the same, but of similiar quality. The Arcam in my view is more musical than the Anthem for pure music. The Anthem however, is better for movies than the Arcam in terms of audio playback. That's the short answer in my view.


PS the Naim's blow away playing CDs from either my Oppo or LG blu-ray players . . .


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I just found that no matter what I do I can't get my AVM50v to successfully download its settings to the Setup Editor. This wasn't a problem with Beta 2.08a however with both d/e I just found it won't. Using the auto detect button would usually automatically download my configuration from the unit to the Setup editor. I would simply then save it to a file. Now none of the parameters are transferred from the unit even though it says that the settings from the unit have be loaded. All that is there is the default parameters. There is no problem with loading files from the Setup editor TO the unit.


Can someone else verify this?



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I suspect they have to update Setup Editor to know about the new Setup menu fields related to Dolby Volume. A similar problem happened in the past when they changed the data fields in the Setup menu. Please do report this to Anthem.


Try the Settings Backup utility as an alternative for backing up your Setup menu settings. It moves the Setup settings as an undifferentiated block of data so it doesn't need to know what the settings actually mean. You will also need to use the Live Video Settings Editor utility to separately back up your Video Source Adjust menu settings.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiojack* /forum/post/18116628
> 
> 
> PS the Naim's blow away playing CDs from either my Oppo or LG blu-ray players . . .




I will have to agree with the SQ of Naim products, my dealer has them in stock and I have auditioned My Signature S8's and the whole line of the B&W 800 series a few times. Excellent products and I would highly suggest them, though I don't currently own any....


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18117529
> 
> 
> I suspect they have to update Setup Editor to know about the new Setup menu fields related to Dolby Volume. A similar problem happened in the past when they changed the data fields in the Setup menu. Please do report this to Anthem.
> 
> 
> Try the Settings Backup utility as an alternative for backing up your Setup menu settings. It moves the Setup settings as an undifferentiated block of data so it doesn't need to know what the settings actually mean. You will also need to use the Live Video Settings Editor utility to separately back up your Video Source Adjust menu settings.
> 
> --Bob



Gretings,


Makes sense now that you mention it Bob, thanks. I have reached out to Nick already.


Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiojack* /forum/post/18115673
> 
> 
> There is a 5 or 6 paragraph discussion on page 42 of the AVR600 (888) owners manual available on the Arcam website. Its a pretty good explanation and has some implementation suggestions. I leave it off for the blu-ray player but I have it configured as per the manual for the sat box. Have not really played around with all that much however.



NOTE: Folks can download their English language manual from here:

http://www.arcam.co.uk/products,fmj,...rs,AVR600.htm# 


Click on "PDF Downloads" below the model number on the right, and the download links will then be shown on the left underneath the picture of the unit.


The Dolby Volume settings are on page E-40, and their discussion of Dolby Volume is on page E-48.


-------------------------------


Interesting stuff, thanks! Their comments are probably relevant to the implementation in the Anthem as well.


Things to note:


1) They recommend Dolby Volume Movie mode *ONLY* when playing movie sound tracks. For all other content, including TV, they recommend Dolby Volume Music mode.


2) They recommend reducing the Leveling value below its default setting of 9 for typical cases where much of your content is already reasonably matched in volume. They don't give any specific guidance for typical uses -- e.g., TV programs vs. commercials.


3) They recommend turning Dolby Volume OFF (altogether, not just lowering the Leveling value to OFF) for audiophile listening.


Unfortunately, they don't give any useful guidance on when you might want to change the Dolby Cal Offset (now Dolby Cal Level in the V2.08e firmware). Basically they say if your speaker setup is calibrated for 75dB, then the default 0dB value for Dolby Cal should be right. And allowing for the possibility of the 6dB ARC error in Test Level in V2.08, that appears to be pretty accurate, at least for Dolby Volume Music mode.


I haven't played with Leveling yet to see if a lower setting than 9 might be more pleasing for TV viewing.

--Bob


----------



## rfc_2002

Hi guys,

Newbie here.

I'm very interested in belonging to the D2V club.

I've been reading about it here, for days! Up to 26848 posts.

The D2v has been out a while it seems and I'm sure there have been firm ware updates to solve some of the problems.

Somewhere on the net, I read this unit gets hot and maybe needing a separate external fan. Any truth to that?

I will end up spending weeks just reading all the posts to bring me up to speed.

Would someone, provide the short list of things to know about; what areas are still needing tweaks, if any at all. Hopefully this unit has worked though everything, but it's always a good idea to ask.


Any current problems I should be aware of, before I pull the trigger and buy the D2v?


I'm thinking of using 3 Bel Canto M300's (fronts)and 1 S300 (rear) mono blocks. Anyone here using these?

My speakers are B&W N805 front, HTm2 center and LM1 rears. JLf f113 sub.

Room 13x13,10 ceiling. One wall open to 11x13x10.

You're thoughts on the D2v/Bel Canto/B&W/JLf113 combination?


----------



## davoe

Just for the record.....it doesn't get hot at all, if you read the manual, you don't even have to read these threads. I've had it installed for since New Years and haven't had any issues. It's a fantastic processor.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I experimented with Dolby Volume Music and with Leveling reduced from 9 to 5 this evening for TV watching. I think I like 5 better.


I also had my first DV related failure this evening. Going from HDMI LPCM audio on one Source (with DV OFF) back to my Comcast TV source -- Optical Digital Bitstream audio -- I found I got no audio with Dolby Volume Movie or Music. Pressing Select enough times revealed that DV had decided to adjust the volume all the way down. Switching to DV OFF yielded normal audio.


But audio was lost again when switching back to DV Movie or Music.


Changing Sources and back didn't fix it either.


I ended up power cycling the D2v, and that did fix it.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18120451
> 
> 
> I experimented with Dolby Volume Music and with Leveling reduced from 9 to 5 this evening for TV watching. I think I like 5 better.
> 
> 
> I also had my first DV related failure this evening. Going from HDMI LPCM audio on one Source (with DV OFF) back to my Comcast TV source -- Optical Digital Bitstream audio -- I found I got no audio with Dolby Volume Movie or Music. Pressing Select enough times revealed that DV had decided to adjust the volume all the way down. Switching to DV OFF yielded normal audio.
> 
> 
> But audio was lost again when switching back to DV Movie or Music.
> 
> 
> Changing Sources and back didn't fix it either.
> 
> 
> I ended up power cycling the D2v, and that did fix it.
> 
> --Bob



Right - that's what I described earlier. I didn't report to Nick or whatever, as that seems too hard (don't have contact info, etc.). Hopefully you'll report it!


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/18116357
> 
> 
> Anyone compare the D2V and AV888 on pure audio performance using digital sources??
> 
> 
> I know the D2V ARC is much more comprehensive than the AV888, but this aside is audio performance also superior?
> 
> 
> I really have no need for the video side.
> 
> 
> THanks



This is taste based. I own the D2V but 50% of my CD listing is done on a High end tube amp. Movies and multichannel music wise the combo D2V/ARC is amazing.


Now the biggest difference is stability over HDMI and the feedback I am getting is that the AV888 is unstable. The new Classe is even worst. Bryston is facing unforecasted development delays on the SP3 du to HDMI issues. HDMI is causing lots of trouble on the high-end side


Anthem manage to get it right partially due their open book philosophy where issues are openly discussed and beta software solution to these problem distributed with limited control. This allows them to get feedback from users quickly and turn around solution even faster. This expend their testing power and allow them to test an unlimited number of combination. The drawback is that this openness in sharing information give to outsider of this thread the feeling that the unit is having problem which it doesn't compare to others. Peoples that stick to the official release from Anthem website will rarely face issues.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/18120798
> 
> 
> Right - that's what I described earlier. I didn't report to Nick or whatever, as that seems too hard (don't have contact info, etc.). Hopefully you'll report it!



It is not rocket science just email the issue to [email protected] .


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/18120798
> 
> 
> Right - that's what I described earlier. I didn't report to Nick or whatever, as that seems too hard (don't have contact info, etc.). Hopefully you'll report it!



Yes, I have reported it.


Sending bug reports to Anthem tech support is trivially easy. Just email to

[email protected] 


Tell them which model (e.g., D2v) and which firmware (e.g., V2.08e) you are using, and your ARC software version (e.g., V2.4) if that seems relevant and describe what you did and what happened. If the problem seems source or display specific, send them model info on the source/display and how you have it cabled up. In my case, in this instance, I just emailed them a link to my post above, with a couple extra comments. (To get an AVS link that begins the display with a specific post, just click on the "Link" button found at the upper right of that post, just to the right of the post number.)


If your email is complete enough that they don't need to ask questions you may not get a response from them, but all such reports do get attention.


Folks who are using the "test" software versions in particular really should email in bug reports, as this is the whole point of making such software available. Reporting problems increases the chances they will get fixed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Another Dolby Volume bug in V2.08e. If you have an overlayed Source definition set up based on another definition, e.g., TV2 Same As TV1, then Dolby Volume Music can not be activated for TV2. Your only choices are Dolby Volume Movie and Dolby Volume Off.


I've sent an email to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## mothaselin

My D2v does not get hot at all. By the way where are you all getting these firmware updates they are not on the Anthem Statement site?


----------



## erikno

Well, today I ordered the new Anthem BLX 200 Blue ray player, which was actually in stock at the Norwegian importer. I will get it next week, and really hope the match with my D2v will be great. I have had problems of using the videoprocessor for upscaling from my panasonic dmp 50, so hopefully this will allow me to more fully utilise the potential in the D2v.


erikno


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I just wanted to throw out a huge thank you to Pierro at Anthem.


People often talk about home theater equipment in dollars and cents. Let's face it, the Statement line isn't cheap. Having said that today I ran head on into a you get what you pay for.


Some time ago I entered into the D2 to D2v upgrade program. Today Pierro called and said my unit was ready for exchange. I was ready to do the paperwork with credit card in hand when he asked me to describe my sources to him.


Oppo BDP 80

Xbox 360

Panasonic Plasma Display

Bryston 9B SST

Paradigm Studio Series Speakers (5.1) (Servo 15 subwoofer)

Bell 9242 HD PVR


This is when Pierro shocked the heck out of me. He recommended that I shouldn't do the upgrade. He said I still have one available HDMI input that can be used for something down the road (a projector). Based on my current equipment I don't require HDMI 1.3c. (aren't they already talking about 1.4?) The Oppo leaves the internal decoding in the D2v useless for me.


Pierro said unless I plan on moving to 7.1, or adding a number of sources in the near future (I don't plan on it) he'd recommend I keep my current D2 and wait to upgrade to the newly designed D3. Pierro told me that Audio and Video wise I will not be able to tell the difference between the D2 and the D2v. (_BASED ON MY CURRENT EQUIPMENT_)


What an awesome company to deal with! Can you honestly say many companies would recommend to their customers to NOT UPGRADE at this time. This is exactly why Anthem will get my money when the D3 comes out.


I almost didn't post this as I didn't want to start a war or debate over the D2v sounding or looking better than the D2. But I ultimately felt people considering Anthem had to know what great people they are. They're goal isn't to simply make a buck. They're producing top of the line products and placing the best interests of their customers first.


Thank you Anthem...


----------



## emailtim

Did they give an ETA on the D3 ???


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/18121717
> 
> 
> This is taste based. I own the D2V but 50% of my CD listing is done on a High end tube amp. Movies and multichannel music wise the combo D2V/ARC is amazing.
> 
> 
> Now the biggest difference is stability over HDMI and the feedback I am getting is that the AV888 is unstable. The new Classe is even worst. Bryston is facing unforecasted development delays on the SP3 du to HDMI issues. HDMI is causing lots of trouble on the high-end side
> 
> 
> Anthem manage to get it right partially due their open book philosophy where issues are openly discussed and beta software solution to these problem distributed with limited control. This allows them to get feedback from users quickly and turn around solution even faster. This expend their testing power and allow them to test an unlimited number of combination. The drawback is that this openness in sharing information give to outsider of this thread the feeling that the unit is having problem which it doesn't compare to others. Peoples that stick to the official release from Anthem website will rarely face issues.



Well said! all of your box outlet products tend not to have this open discussion on their products because well they are not high end and you dont have that hand on with the company as you do with Anthem. I find the d2v to be exceptional and I blow everyone away when they come for a demo. Anthem works quickly to resolve a lot of the issues that hdmi in general introduce. The only problem I have with it is a small bug when selecting one source and going back to my pc in zone 2 I have to turn on main power to get sound to come back in zone 2. Anthem has been working on the issue that seems to be specific to the d2v since I did not have this issue with my d2.


----------



## Nicoff

Ever since the D2V came out, I have been thinking of upgrading my D2 to this newest and latest version. Then I read about issues with the D2V and I refrain. When posts about problems/issues with the D2V slow down, then I start thinking that it is safe to "jump in the pool" only to read about some other new issues popping up. I am staying put with my old trusty D2 for a bit longer. But I want to thank all of the front-runners out there who are willing to try the newest and latest and in the process paving the way for those of us less inclined to face the risk of using "state-of-the-art" technology. Thank you guys!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well, I don't think you are going too find many D2v owners who would want to swap for a D2.


Although there are D2v bugs that need to be fixed, the current official firmware is quite good as is. And I find both the video and audio superior to my original D2.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/18121717
> 
> 
> Now the biggest difference is stability over HDMI and the feedback I am getting is that the AV888 is unstable. The new Classe is even worst. Bryston is facing unforecasted development delays on the SP3 du to HDMI issues. HDMI is causing lots of trouble on the high-end side



Yes, HDMI is a PITA. I have not seen evidence that the Classe is unstable (definition needed). Mine is rock solid driven by the ubiquitous Oppo.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18129390
> 
> 
> Well, I don't think you are going too find many D2v owners who would want to swap for a D2.
> 
> 
> Although there are D2v bugs that need to be fixed, the current official firmware is quite good as is. And I find both the video and audio superior to my original D2.
> 
> --Bob



I second that!


----------



## Texas steve

Anyone here with D2v running a Paradigm sub 25? Im considering one and have a couple of questions;

1. is 240VAC necessary?

2. would you run ARC first, then the Sub 25 software or vice versa?


Thanks guys


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18129983
> 
> 
> Anyone here with D2v running a Paradigm sub 25? Im considering one and have a couple of questions;
> 
> 1. is 240VAC necessary?
> 
> 2. would you run ARC first, then the Sub 25 software or vice versa?
> 
> 
> Thanks guys



There are much better subs for the price. Just check around the forums here.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18129983
> 
> 
> Anyone here with D2v running a Paradigm sub 25? Im considering one and have a couple of questions;
> 
> 1. is 240VAC necessary?
> 
> 2. would you run ARC first, then the Sub 25 software or vice versa?
> 
> 
> Thanks guys



Run ARC last or only. If you change how the sub responds after you set up ARC then ARC's solution for the other speakers will no longer be correct.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/18124611
> 
> 
> I just wanted to throw out a huge thank you to Pierro at Anthem. .................
> 
> 
> ............What an awesome company to deal with! Can you honestly say many companies would recommend to their customers to NOT UPGRADE at this time. This is exactly why Anthem will get my money when the D3 comes out.
> 
> 
> I almost didn't post this as I didn't want to start a war or debate over the D2v sounding or looking better than the D2. But I ultimately felt people considering Anthem had to know what great people they are. They're goal isn't to simply make a buck. They're producing top of the line products and placing the best interests of their customers first.
> 
> 
> Thank you Anthem...



Good post Ohdee, Pierro is great to work with, though we can definitely tell he is in technical service and not sales!







I came to the same conclusion that he did, why upgrade to a D2v when I really won't get much that much out of it, especially when Anthem raised the upgrade cost _substantially_ for this round. So I will wait for the D3 as well, and like others have said, it's nice to not have to deal with bugs from a new version. I've been there and done that with the D2, though I do understand that's the price you pay when you are on the cutting edge with higher end gear, and Anthem is great about fixing problems that really aren't their fault (HDMI).


All that said, I am _slightly_ jealous of those of you with D2v's, and if I had money to burn I would have one too.


----------



## slots1

I also wanted to upgrade. But, I was basically told the same thing. So, I am waiting patiently for the D3. When I was at CES in January it seemed that the gentlemen from Anthem made it seem like it would be more then a year for a D3. Hope not..


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks Bob.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18130380
> 
> 
> Run ARC last or only. If you change how the sub responds after you set up ARC then ARC's solution for the other speakers will no longer be correct.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18129983
> 
> 
> Anyone here with D2v running a Paradigm sub 25? Im considering one and have a couple of questions;
> 
> 1. is 240VAC necessary?
> 
> 2. would you run ARC first, then the Sub 25 software or vice versa?
> 
> 
> Thanks guys



Nick told me to run pbk first and then ARC. A review from CES said either voltage could be used with outstanding results.

John


----------



## Bill Mac

I have seen mention of Anthem releasing several receivers possibly equipped with ARC room correction. This news interests me very much as the AVM 50 and D2v are out of my price range. I had a AVM 30 which I would have never sold but for the fact I wanted HDMI 1.3, HBR audio and room correction. I am wondering if there are any other details that are available for these upcoming AVRs?


What I really liked about the AVM 30 was Anthem Logic and the ability to use DSP processing with the M/C analog inputs. Also the SQ for 2 CH analog was far better than my current prepro the Onkyo 886. The manual was among the best I have ever used explaining the many features of the AVM 30 so just about anyone could easily set it up (including me







). If the SQ of these upcoming AVRs equals that of the AVM 30 I will not hesitate to buy one.


Bill


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill Mac* /forum/post/18131140
> 
> 
> I have seen mention of Anthem releasing several receivers possibly equipped with ARC room correction. This news interests me very much as the AVM 50 and D2v are out of my price range. I had a AVM 30 which I would have never sold but for the fact I wanted HDMI 1.3, HBR audio and room correction. I am wondering if there are any other details that are available for these upcoming AVRs?
> 
> 
> What I really liked about the AVM 30 was Anthem Logic and the ability to use DSP processing with the M/C analog inputs. Also the SQ for 2 CH analog was far better than my current prepro the Onkyo 886. The manual was among the best I have ever used explaining the many features of the AVM 30 so just about anyone could easily set it up (including me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). If the SQ of these upcoming AVRs equals that of the AVM 30 I will not hesitate to buy one.
> 
> 
> Bill



no firm date but they will have ARC however with a single dsp they won't have the filtering ability of the statement line. However expectations are it will still outperform receivers with Audessey.

John


----------



## pjpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18129983
> 
> 
> Anyone here with D2v running a Paradigm sub 25? Im considering one and have a couple of questions;
> 
> 1. is 240VAC necessary?
> 
> 2. would you run ARC first, then the Sub 25 software or vice versa?
> 
> 
> Thanks guys



I have the D2v and Sub25 and concur with the previous advice but wanted to add that I noticed an occasional "thump" during some movie passages. For some reason I noticed it especially in Narnia, Prince Caspian. Piero pointed me to a firmware upgrade for the Sub 25.
http://www.paradigm.com/en/reference...4-20.paradigm# 

First time I heard of a firmware upgrade for a subwoofer but it solved the problem. Not sure how to check for the current firmware on the Sub you get. Hope this helps.


----------



## Bill Mac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18131243
> 
> 
> no firm date but they will have ARC however with a single dsp they won't have the filtering ability of the statement line. However expectations are it will still outperform receivers with Audessey.
> 
> John



John,


Thanks for the information







. If I recall the AVM 30 had a single DSP, not sure though. I have been happy with Audyssey but would welcome the improvement ARC could provide. I would not expect the receivers at the projected price range ($1300/1800) to have the capabilities of the Statement line. I would think there would be video processing but not the quality of the Sigma VXP of course. One of my biggest interests would be SQ and I would not think the AVRs would be lacking in that regard







. Thanks again!


Bill


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks for the input will run PBK first then ARC


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks, are you runnng on 110 or 220?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjpoon* /forum/post/18131354
> 
> 
> I have the D2v and Sub25 and concur with the previous advice but wanted to add that I noticed an occasional "thump" during some movie passages. For some reason I noticed it especially in Narnia, Prince Caspian. Piero pointed me to a firmware upgrade for the Sub 25.
> http://www.paradigm.com/en/reference...4-20.paradigm#
> 
> First time I heard of a firmware upgrade for a subwoofer but it solved the problem. Not sure how to check for the current firmware on the Sub you get. Hope this helps.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/18130489
> 
> 
> I also wante upgrade. But, I was basically told the same thing. So, I am waiting patiently for the D3. When I was at CES in January it seemed that the gentlemen from Anthem made it seem like it would be more then a year for a D3. Hope not..



If it was less than a year, you likely would have seen a D3 at CES. Next shot would be CEDIA in September or so. Even then, you're likely looking at 6 months afterwards, so earliest would likely be March 2011.


----------



## EAnderson

It's been a while since I've visited this forum but I've got a question for my old school D2. I'm still using my PS3 as my Bluray source and running it PCM, however I'm not sure what settings I should be using in the Anthem. The stereo indicator is on where I feel the DTS indicator should a least be on since DTS Master Audio seems to be predominate on Blurays. I can't afford the $4,500. price tag of upgrading to the v2 so I'll have to make do with what I have. Aside from that, I've probably missed the boat as far as the upgrade window timing. But, any help would be nice to get the best sound from my D2 and PS3 combo. I don't think I should be using any anthem-logic or any of the gimmics. It seems like all of the center channel info is being sent to all channels like all channel stereo. I'm currently using v1.33.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Use HDMI for audio from the PS3 to your original D2. Use HDMI LPCM for the audio format.


Run the PS3's automatic setup for HDMI Video output. It should offer to send up to 1080p to your D2.


When that finishes, select the option to also set up HDMI audio. Confirm that all the LPCM output formats up through 5.1 96KHz are allowed (and none of the 7.1 formats).


Since you have selected HDMI LPCM output for SD-DVDs and Blu-Ray discs, the PS3 will do the decoding. The D2 will see only LPCM input. There is no way for the D2 to know what the audio track used to be before the PS3 decoded it, so none of the other format lights will light up on the D2.


Play a disc with a 5.1 or 7.1 track and confirm the D2 front panel says it is getting 5.1 PCM as input. Note that on some discs you will need to select the track in the on-disc menus, as it won't be the default track.

--Bob


----------



## EAnderson

Thanks Bob,

You have always been very helpful in the past. So again I thank you. I have already made it through to this point, however, I'd kinda like to not have any kind of additional surround processing added like the Anthem logic or Neo whatever, if possible, just straight DTS MA as the PS3 passes. I'm getting center channel info from all speakers and I don't want that. So, in the Anthem, what is the best set-up to achive this under the source setup? It seemed my audio was better prior to a redesign to my room over a year ago and I did'nt save my settings. I just can't remember how I had it set up (C.R.S.).


----------



## lashler

I updated my D2V to ver 2.08 successfully. However, I can't get the status on the TV (software version, audio input, etc). I went to #12 in setup and I am showing S-V + HD for main OS out. Any ideas?


----------



## Texas steve

Be sure you are on HDMI 1 out as HDMI2 does not display any status. Also check Svideo out to your tv for status info




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lashler* /forum/post/18132159
> 
> 
> I updated my D2V to ver 2.08 successfully. However, I can't get the status on the TV (software version, audio input, etc). I went to #12 in setup and I am showing S-V + HD for main OS out. Any ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EAnderson* /forum/post/18132139
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> You have always been very helpful in the past. So again I thank you. I have already made it through to this point, however, I'd kinda like to not have any kind of additional surround processing added like the Anthem logic or Neo whatever, if possible, just straight DTS MA as the PS3 passes. I'm getting center channel info from all speakers and I don't want that. So, in the Anthem, what is the best set-up to achive this under the source setup? It seemed my audio was better prior to a redesign to my room over a year ago and I did'nt save my settings. I just can't remember how I had it set up (C.R.S.).



Check your settings in Setup > Speaker Configuration, and in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Bass Management Movie & Music to make sure they match your actual speaker configuration.


Then check the test tones in Setup > Speaker Calibration to make sure you are getting audio from the correct speaker for each test tone, and that all of your speakers are balanced in volume. It is best to use your trusty, Radio Shack SPL meter for this (set to "Slow" response and "C" weighting; held pointing straight up at arms length and positioned at seated ear height at your center seating location).


Alternatively, if you are using ARC, either redo your ARC setup or, if your room/speakers are unchanged, simply re-Upload your most recent ARC results file.


Next check which Audio Surround mode you are using. By default it will be selected by what you have set in Setup > Mode Presets for each Source but you can also view/adjust it by pressing the Mode button once and then using Up/Down arrow to cycle through the choices. The available choices at any moment will depend on (1) how many speakers you have configured, (2) the type of audio currently coming in as input, and (3) whether or not THX post processing happens to be turned on. Use the THX button and the Up/Down arrows to turn THX post processing On/Off.


For movie viewing, with 2.0 input you will typically use PLIIx Movie. With 5.1 input you will typically use None in a 5.1 speaker configuration and PLIIx Movie in a 7.1 speaker configuration. If you are using ARC I recommend you leave THX post processing turned Off.


If your Movie and Music configurations are different (e.g., different speakers active), make sure the Setup > Source Setup definition for your Source is using the one you want to use.


Finally, make sure you haven't screwed things up by playing around with the "temporary" speaker level adjustments available via the remote. It is easy to get confused about how you have left those set. To clear ALL of those temporary settings all at once, go into Setup > Save & Load Settings and do this:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue via the Front Panel display

3) Reload Saved User Settings


Since the temporary settings are not saved, this clears all of them.


------------------------------------------------


Now go play a calibration disc which puts out 5.1 channel test tones. For example on the "DVE HD Basics", Blu-Ray, use the "Multi-channels Level & Balance" test. Confirm that audio is coming from the correct speakers (and ONLY the correct speakers) and that all the speakers are in volume balance.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lashler* /forum/post/18132159
> 
> 
> I updated my D2V to ver 2.08 successfully. However, I can't get the status on the TV (software version, audio input, etc). I went to #12 in setup and I am showing S-V + HD for main OS out. Any ideas?



Make sure you are using the HDMI 1 output to your display (on screen display graphics will not show on the HDMI 2 output). Compare the picture in section 3.12 of the Manual to your Setup > Displays and Time Out menu settings, and correct any differences.


If neither of those leads to a solution, reload the V2.08 firmware on top of itself. Be sure you Reload Factory Defaults prior to the install and that you have no powered HDMI connections during the install. Since some HDMI devices/displays keep their HDMI sockets live even when the are "off", I recommend you remove wall power from everything except the Anthem and your computer during the install.


If still no joy, give Anthem tech support a call.

--Bob


----------



## EAnderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18132805
> 
> 
> Check your settings in Setup > Speaker Configuration, and in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Bass Management Movie & Music to make sure they match your actual speaker configuration.
> 
> 
> Then check the test tones in Setup > Speaker Calibration to make sure you are getting audio from the correct speaker for each test tone, and that all of your speakers are balanced in volume. It is best to use your trusty, Radio Shack SPL meter for this (set to "Slow" response and "C" weighting; held pointing straight up at arms length and positioned at seated ear height at your center seating location).
> 
> 
> Alternatively, if you are using ARC, either redo your ARC setup or, if your room/speakers are unchanged, simply re-Upload your most recent ARC results file.
> 
> 
> Next check which Audio Surround mode you are using. By default it will be selected by what you have set in Setup > Mode Presets for each Source but you can also view/adjust it by pressing the Mode button once and then using Up/Down arrow to cycle through the choices. The available choices at any moment will depend on (1) how many speakers you have configured, (2) the type of audio currently coming in as input, and (3) whether or not THX post processing happens to be turned on. Use the THX button and the Up/Down arrows to turn THX post processing On/Off.
> 
> 
> For movie viewing, with 2.0 input you will typically use PLIIx Movie. With 5.1 input you will typically use None in a 5.1 speaker configuration and PLIIx Movie in a 7.1 speaker configuration. If you are using ARC I recommend you leave THX post processing turned Off.
> 
> 
> If your Movie and Music configurations are different (e.g., different speakers active), make sure the Setup > Source Setup definition for your Source is using the one you want to use.
> 
> 
> Finally, make sure you haven't screwed things up by playing around with the "temporary" speaker level adjustments available via the remote. It is easy to get confused about how you have left those set. To clear ALL of those temporary settings all at once, go into Setup > Save & Load Settings and do this:
> 
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 
> 2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue via the Front Panel display
> 
> 3) Reload Saved User Settings
> 
> 
> Since the temporary settings are not saved, this clears all of them.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now go play a calibration disc which puts out 5.1 channel test tones. For example on the "DVE HD Basics", Blu-Ray, use the "Multi-channels Level & Balance" test. Confirm that audio is coming from the correct speakers (and ONLY the correct speakers) and that all the speakers are in volume balance.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I'll give this try and report back to you. I don't remember having DTS and D.D. 5.1 set to "none" before so may have been my problem all along. So, what should the display read at this point? 5.1 PCM?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes, Press Select multiple times to get details.

--Bob


----------



## apog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18129983
> 
> 
> Anyone here with D2v running a Paradigm sub 25? Im considering one and have a couple of questions;
> 
> 1. is 240VAC necessary?
> 
> 2. would you run ARC first, then the Sub 25 software or vice versa?
> 
> 
> Thanks guys





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/16398901
> 
> 
> As Randall mentioned I got to know the model quite well through testing its software, then setting up and using multiple Sub 25s in the factory's theater. I'm also familiar with the lineage beginning with the Servo 15 v1. Some clarifications regarding this thread:
> 
> 
> Residential 120V circuits are almost always 15A or 20A and with that the Sub 25 amp can deliver 3000W to the voice coil's minimum impedance for a few seconds. After that the DSP lowers output so a dedicated 15A breaker doesn't trip. This intentional characteristic was modeled within a 15A breaker's time constant. With 208V or higher the Sub 25 can put out 3000W continuously. In North America 240V circuits and receptacles are used with window air conditioners and pumps. Converting a dedicated 3-conductor 120V (non-Edison) circuit to 240V is a minor operation, with a receptacle change and 2-pole breaker instead of single-pole (15A or 20A according to wire gauge, or typically 10A in 240V countries). If the outlet to be converted is not a dedicated circuit, it has to be turned into one - contact a licensed electrician. 240V is really not needed. With the bassiest music track that we use for testing subs, average consumption through the track is 800W if level is set so its peaks are at 3000W. This doesn't trip a dedicated 120V 15A circuit, and this is synthesized bass that is practically a sine wave.
> 
> 
> With 208V or more the Sub 25 amp can actually put out 4500W but since the cone can't use it the sub is rated at 3000W, not 4500W. This is the opposite of how some other manufacturers rate their subs when amp power exceeds driver rating. Also, the Sub 25 power figures are real measured continuous watts, not "equivalent" power that some manufacturers quote based on amp performance with a lighter load - it's like saying a small car that goes 60 mph (100 km/h) uphill has an engine that puts out 500 HP when a 10 ton trailer is pulled.
> 
> 
> ----------
> 
> 
> Another factor in getting all this power is active power factor correction, which changes PF from around 0.65 to 0.99. All power supplies have poor power factor. Lower cost passive correction can take it up to about 0.85. Power factor represents the phase difference between AC voltage and current. The lower this is, the lower the real power because current can only flow while the voltage cycle peaks, resulting in a spiky current cycle instead of a sinusoidal one.
> 
> 
> ----------
> 
> 
> When on but with no input signal the Sub consumes 26W. If this seems low for a 3 kW amp remember that it's a class D amp with a switching power supply. When it's playing, consumption depends on how loud it's playing. When in standby mode the consumption was too low for the meter I used - probably well under a watt.
> 
> 
> ----------
> 
> 
> Due to high voltage inside a permanent grill was indeed needed to pass safety regulations. The certifications body later recognized that people aren't normally going to push things through the cone but what's done is done.
> 
> 
> -----------
> 
> 
> The SPL figures below are from anechoic measurements. For in-room response add 3 dB per nearby boundary, so if the sub is in a corner add 9 dB to all the numbers (that's where the data sheet's 125 dB of clean in-room bass comes from).
> 
> 
> The Sub 25 puts out 9 Hz cleanly up to around 89 dB - after that it's limited by the DSP. We could make it go louder but it won't be clean. This is still better than not having 9 Hz response at all, and it's not like some manufacturers who say that if you input 8 Hz you'll get 120 dB out when what they're not saying is that it's loaded with distortion and/or containing no fundamental tone to speak of. From 17 Hz and up Sub 25 output is linear up to 108 dB. Beyond that the DSP rolls off the deepest bass off and the remainder goes up to 116 dB cleanly.
> 
> 
> --------------
> 
> 
> A proper setup and good source material says the rest.
> 
> 
> Incidentally if you're using ARC, PBK usually isn't needed regardless of the number of subs (the greater the number, the more even the pressure around the room - it self-corrects). Just remember that when using multiple subs they must be balanced to one another before running ARC. This can be done by setting them individually to a reference SPL - usually below 70 dB each to account for the other subs - or by adjusting levels so peaks and nulls at the listening position set up by one sub are complemented by the other(s).
> 
> 
> For more info the quickest way to reach me is to e-mail tech at anthemav dot com.



Above is a posting copied from the Sub 25 thread in the Subwoofers forum. I bought 2 Sub 25s a couple of weeks back (single Servo 15v2 previously); each has a dedicated 20amp 110v line. Based on Nick's post, I didn't think the higher voltage necessary and also did not purchase PBK and am relying solely on ARC. I use a family great room which open to the rest of the house and have limited options on both speaker and sub placement. Without ARC, it's pretty much unlistenable. I'm still struggling with a few things, but the sound is quite enjoyable at this point.


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks, yes I saw that in the forum. I think my thread is now leaning more towards that forum (except for the ARC discussion which is D2v related). I think i will run the PBK then the ARC as Bob Suggested

Im going to try it with a 115amp circut and go from there.

Thanks for the info.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *apog* /forum/post/18133101
> 
> 
> Above is a posting copied from the Sub 25 thread in the Subwoofers forum. I bought 2 Sub 25s a couple of weeks back (single Servo 15v2 previously); each has a dedicated 20amp 110v line. Based on Nick's post, I didn't think the higher voltage necessary and also did not purchase PBK and am relying solely on ARC. I use a family great room which open to the rest of the house and have limited options on both speaker and sub placement. Without ARC, it's pretty much unlistenable. I'm still struggling with a few things, but the sound is quite enjoyable at this point.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It is always better, in my opinion, to eliminate unnecessary processing steps.


Thus I recommend you try ARC alone first (without PBK at all). The odds are excellent ARC will be able to do the entire job for you. PBK is, after all, just a subset of ARC.


If you find that is not the case -- that you are not happy with what ARC produces on its own -- then turn off ARC, set up PBK, and then set up ARC again with PBK left on so that the new ARC solution takes the results of PBK processing into account. As I said in the post above, it is vital that you set up ARC *LAST* so that the solution it builds takes into account of the modified subwoofer response produced by PBK.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's early days yet on this Dolby Volume stuff, but I must say that at this point I'm not impressed. I've not found any situations where I clearly prefer Dolby Volume to be ON with the sole exception of when playing Dolby's own Dolby Volume demo disc.


The volume leveling stuff is confusing. I've had multiple instances where the Select button displays say DV is raising the volume when I think it should be lowering it. This is with DV Music, Leveling at 6, and Dolby Cal at +6dB.


I'll have to try running it for a while with Leveling turned OFF altogether, but still with Dolby Volume Music selected, and see if the separate, frequency related adjustments are more to my liking, but with Leveling at 6 I think the frequency related adjustments are still too aggressive, even in Music mode.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Will do, thanks Bob. As you know when you did my files my Muse 18 sub had problems so hopefully this will eliminate this.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18133479
> 
> 
> It is always better, in my opinion, to eliminate unnecessary processing steps.
> 
> 
> Thus I recommend you try ARC alone first (without PBK at all). The odds are excellent ARC will be able to do the entire job for you. PBK is, after all, just a subset of ARC.
> 
> 
> If you find that is not the case -- that you are not happy with what ARC produces on its own -- then turn off ARC, set up PBK, and then set up ARC again with PBK left on so that the new ARC solution takes the results of PBK processing into account. As I said in the post above, it is vital that you set up ARC *LAST* so that the solution it builds takes into account of the modified subwoofer response produced by PBK.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18133479
> 
> 
> It is always better, in my opinion, to eliminate unnecessary processing steps.
> 
> 
> Thus I recommend you try ARC alone first (without PBK at all). The odds are excellent ARC will be able to do the entire job for you. PBK is, after all, just a subset of ARC.
> 
> 
> If you find that is not the case -- that you are not happy with what ARC produces on its own -- then turn off ARC, set up PBK, and then set up ARC again with PBK left on so that the new ARC solution takes the results of PBK processing into account. As I said in the post above, it is vital that you set up ARC *LAST* so that the solution it builds takes into account of the modified subwoofer response produced by PBK.
> 
> --Bob



With one sub there would hardly be a difference since PBK and ARC use the same sub channel algorithm. With multiple subs PBK is nice to have. I added these notes to the Sub 25 thread:


-----------------


NOTE1: Subwoofer correction such as PBK only accounts for one sub at a time. The overall response is different when all subs play together, so overall correction in a pre-pro, such as ARC, must be run in a multi-sub setup after each sub has been individually corrected.


NOTE2: Results can still be better if each sub in a multi-sub setup is PBK'd before running ARC. The only way to find by how much is to try both ways.


------------------


To ARC + correctable sub users - sorry if this caused confusion. The silver lining is that PBK has been streamlined since the Sub 25 came out, and it's never too late to add it. Be sure to update the sub software before running latest PBK.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It appears to me that Dolby Volume Leveling OFF produces more volume gain than Dolby Volume Leveling LOW. That would seem to be a bug.


This is more evident in Dolby Volume Movie than in Music.


Can someone else try this and see if you can confirm?

--Bob


----------



## rfc_2002

I'm interested in using a Classe CAV-180 amp.

The manual says:


Infrared (IR) input and output

The CAV-180 Multichannel Power Amplifier is equipped with 1/8“ mini-plug connectors that allow the unit to directly receive and transmit remote IR commands – See Fig 1. These connectors can be used with equipment that receives IR commands and converts them for transmission on copper wire. This is especially useful for situations where the CAV-180 Multichannel Power Amplifier is outside of the line-of-sight of your listening location. Contact your Classé dealer for information on installing and using remote IR repeating equipment.


So....how would I connect this to the 2Dv.

Both units will be in line of sight.


----------



## Murrayb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18129983
> 
> 
> Anyone here with D2v running a Paradigm sub 25? Im considering one and have a couple of questions;
> 
> 1. is 240VAC necessary?
> 
> 2. would you run ARC first, then the Sub 25 software or vice versa?
> 
> 
> Thanks guys



I have that combo. I've had the Paradigm sub 25 for about 4 months. It replaced an SVS 20-39. In response to your questions:


1. No, although I did have a separate line / circuit run for the sub 25. Sub sounds superb.


2. As others have said, you run the sub software first and then Arc.


You can't go wrong buying the sub 25. It's great for both music and movies. No boominess at all. Nice tight, powerful bass.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rfc_2002* /forum/post/18133584
> 
> 
> I'm interested in using a Classe CAV-180 amp.
> 
> The manual says:
> 
> 
> Infrared (IR) input and output
> 
> The CAV-180 Multichannel Power Amplifier is equipped with 1/8 mini-plug connectors that allow the unit to directly receive and transmit remote IR commands - See Fig 1. These connectors can be used with equipment that receives IR commands and converts them for transmission on copper wire. This is especially useful for situations where the CAV-180 Multichannel Power Amplifier is outside of the line-of-sight of your listening location. Contact your Classé dealer for information on installing and using remote IR repeating equipment.
> 
> 
> So....how would I connect this to the 2Dv.
> 
> Both units will be in line of sight.



If both units are able to see IR remote commands from your normal listening position there's not much point in wiring up IR from one to the other. The wired IR will "pass through" commands not intended for the Anthem, which will be picked up by the device at the other end of the wire just as if it had seen its remote in the first place. That is, you still need to use the original amp remote or a programmable remote set to put out the same IR commands to generate the commands for the amp in the first place.


So if the amp can see the remote all by itself, the wired connection doesn't really add anything or make any difference in the way you would use the remotes.


-------------------------------------------------


To wire up the IR outputs of the Anthem, see sections 2.5 and 2.6 of the Manual. The IR emitters of the Anthem are typically used to drive little IR lights that you place in front of the other device(s). Since your amp has an IR input jack, you would wire to that directly instead of using such an emitter light.


IMPORTANT NOTE: The IR emitters of the Anthem only repeat commands that come in through the REAR IR control jacks of the Anthem. That means that to daisy chain IR like this you must also set up an IR receiver plugged into a rear IR input jack on the Anthem and use that instead of the normal, front panel IR receiver on the Anthem. To enable/disable the IR receiver jacks of the Anthem see Setup > Triggers / IR / RS-232 (Section 3.11 of the Manual).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/18133578
> 
> 
> With one sub there would hardly be a difference since PBK and ARC use the same sub channel algorithm. With multiple subs PBK is nice to have. I added these notes to the Sub 25 thread:
> 
> 
> -----------------
> 
> 
> NOTE1: Subwoofer correction such as PBK only accounts for one sub at a time. The overall response is different when all subs play together, so overall correction in a pre-pro, such as ARC, must be run in a multi-sub setup after each sub has been individually corrected.
> 
> 
> NOTE2: Results can still be better if each sub in a multi-sub setup is PBK'd before running ARC. The only way to find by how much is to try both ways.
> 
> 
> ------------------
> 
> 
> To ARC + correctable sub users - sorry if this caused confusion. The silver lining is that PBK has been streamlined since the Sub 25 came out, and it's never too late to add it. Be sure to update the sub software before running latest PBK.



As Nick says, one use of PBK is to pre-correct multiple subwoofers individually before ARC hears them playing as a set.


Another use is if you feel ARC has to do so much correction that you believe it would be better to let PBK take some of the load. However this most often happens with main speakers where the amount of low frequency correction reduces your ability to have ARC apply correction higher up in frequency as well. And of course PBK doesn't do anything for the main speakers so it won't be able to help with that.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

I would like your assistance with Source Setup. I will be adding analog connections to my (on the way) Oppo 83SE player. I already connect my regular Oppo 83 via HDMI, but will be adding analog connections to my D2 when the upgrade arrives. This is what I am using or plan to use:


D2 Button

CD-> Transporter (HDMI)

2-Ch-> Transporter 2-Ch (balanced analog direct)

6-Ch-> Oppo 6 channel (analog direct)

Tape -> tape deck (analog)

FM/AM-> AM/FM tuner

DVD1-> Oppo DVD, for all movies (HDMI)

DVD2-> Oppo CD/SACD/Multichannel music (HDMI)

DVD3-> Oppo CD/SACD two-channel (analog direct)

DVD4-> ?

TV1-> DirecTV (HDMI)

TV2-> DirecTV video + Transporter audio (HDMI) [to watch sports while listening to music]

TV3-> DirecTV video + Oppo audio (HDMI) [to watch sports while listening to music]

TV4, SAT1, SAT2-> ?

VCR-> Playstation 2 (analog)

Aux-> Phono (analog)


Can you offer suggestions to this Source Setup? What are you guys using?


Bob, I know that you also own an Oppo player. Are you using analog connections at all?


Thanks!!


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rfc_2002* /forum/post/18133584
> 
> 
> I'm interested in using a Classe CAV-180 amp.
> 
> The manual says:
> 
> 
> Infrared (IR) input and output
> 
> The CAV-180 Multichannel Power Amplifier is equipped with 1/8 mini-plug connectors that allow the unit to directly receive and transmit remote IR commands - See Fig 1. These connectors can be used with equipment that receives IR commands and converts them for transmission on copper wire. This is especially useful for situations where the CAV-180 Multichannel Power Amplifier is outside of the line-of-sight of your listening location. Contact your Classé dealer for information on installing and using remote IR repeating equipment.
> 
> 
> So....how would I connect this to the 2Dv.
> 
> Both units will be in line of sight.



I suggest that you check with Classe about this particular amp. The IR inputs in most Classe amps can also work as volt-sensing triggers to turn the amp on/off. So basically you connect the wire with the 1/8" mini-plugs from the D2V's 12 volt trigger to the Classe (the D2V comes with 3 triggers so you can connect more than one amp) . Then when you turn on the D2V, it will send a voltage signal to the Classe (the signal is just a 12 volt signal that means "I am on now") and the amp will turn on automatically. You will never have to turn the amp on/off manually again. If the CAV-180 amp has the volt-trigger sensor, it should work nicely for you.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18133748
> 
> 
> As Nick says, one use of PBK is to pre-correct multiple subwoofers individually before ARC hears them playing as a set.
> 
> 
> Another use is if you feel ARC has to do so much correction that you believe it would be better to let PBK take some of the load.



It's more about how a different eq on each sub would affect response when there's little choice on how to fix a problem. I'll explain using these two setups:


Case 1: Jayray's single sub setup. He e-mailed me his .arc results, inquiring whether to add a second sub. I said output at 100 Hz is really low, so if the sub is loud enough for the room why not try repositioning it first (a Servo 15 v2). And so it went from a corner to a side wall. Result - flat response from 20 to 100 Hz. At 100 Hz it went up by something like 14 dB relative to 20 Hz.


Case 2: The factory's 4-sub setup. Intended to be a boardroom, it has zero acoustic design and it's a horrible sounding theater without correction, with big problems all over the frequency range (and no it's not where the blind tests are conducted). An ARC-only pass showed the same kind of drop in the upper sub range. I wasn't about to reposition the four subs - there's nowhere else to put them. Without an immediate helper to either listen or turn dials, it would be quite a task to adjust each sub's phase. Instead, I ran PBK on each sub then re-ran ARC. Quick and simple. Result - same as what Jayray's single-sub repositioning did in his theater.


What was common to both setups at the outset was that ARC saw a steep downward slope in the upper part of the uncorrected sub response, and set crossovers accordingly. By design, ARC doesn't boost by more than 6 dB to make response flat. Something had to change in both of these setups and it made no overall difference whether it was the sub's position or the combined phase response of multiple subs from where they sat.


----------



## Texas steve

So Nick, on a single Sub (sub 25) set up with my D2v would you recommend I do the PB first then ARC?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/18134524
> 
> 
> It's more about how a different eq on each sub would affect response when there's little choice on how to fix a problem. I'll explain using these two setups:
> 
> 
> Case 1: Jayray's single sub setup. He e-mailed me his .arc results, inquiring whether to add a second sub. I said output at 100 Hz is really low, so if the sub is loud enough for the room why not try repositioning it first (a Servo 15 v2). And so it went from a corner to a side wall. Result - flat response from 20 to 100 Hz. At 100 Hz it went up by something like 14 dB relative to 20 Hz.
> 
> 
> Case 2: The factory's 4-sub setup. Intended to be a boardroom, it has zero acoustic design and it's a horrible sounding theater without correction, with big problems all over the frequency range (and no it's not where the blind tests are conducted). An ARC-only pass showed the same kind of drop in the upper sub range. I wasn't about to reposition the four subs - there's nowhere else to put them. Without an immediate helper to either listen or turn dials, it would be quite a task to adjust each sub's phase. Instead, I ran PBK on each sub then re-ran ARC. Quick and simple. Result - same as what Jayray's single-sub repositioning did in his theater.
> 
> 
> What was common to both setups at the outset was that ARC saw a steep downward slope in the upper part of the uncorrected sub response, and set crossovers accordingly. By design, ARC doesn't boost by more than 6 dB to make response flat. Something had to change in both of these setups and it made no overall difference whether it was the sub's position or the combined phase response of multiple subs from where they sat.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

If running both, the sub correction always comes first but with one sub PBK+ARC is unlikely to make a difference vs ARC alone. The exception would be an uncorrected dip that remains after PBK does its thing, leaving ARC to further boost the frequency (unlikely situation with crossover in the mix). If you don't see a nearly flat corrected response to 100 Hz the next step would be to try different sub locations. It can make a huge difference, beyond what electronic correction does.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/18134733
> 
> 
> If running both, the sub correction always comes first but with one sub PBK+ARC is unlikely to make a difference vs ARC alone. The exception would be an uncorrected dip that remains after PBK does its thing, leaving ARC to further boost the frequency (unlikely situation with crossover in the mix). If you don't see a nearly flat corrected response to 100 Hz the next step would be to try different sub locations. It can make a huge difference, beyond what electronic correction does.



Just for clarification. If you have 1 sub, then you can just run ARC. If you have more than 1 sub, then it's best to run the EQ on each sub first and then run ARC with the EQ still engaged on the subs. Am I correct?


----------



## pjpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18131653
> 
> 
> Thanks, are you runnng on 110 or 220?



110. I have an Equi-Tech panel giving balanced power to the home theater and it was not possible to switch one circuit in the panel to 220 according to info I got from Equi-tech. I usually don't play at levels loud enough that I would notice the difference.


----------



## hoehne

This may be a dumb question, but I would appreciate a smart answer (not smart a**)


If I were to connect an Oppo 83SE player to my Anthem D2V using the analog output from the Oppo, can I get a pure untouched bypass through the preamp without any additional A to D conversion or will it digitize the signal regardless?


If there does exist a pure analog path, is it possible to incorporate a subwoofer into the mix so I have two front speakers plus subwoofer? If a pure analog mode does exist, I am not sure if the signal would have to go digital to add the subwoofer in or if it could stay analog with some internal crossover magic to incorporate the subwoofer.


Is ARC available in all of these configuration or only when the signal is digitized and not in pure analog pass through if it exists.


With the above being said, what is the best connection for CD player functionality of the Oppo 83SE, analog 2 channel or HDMI? If the Anthem will digitize the signal regardless, I am thinking I go with the 83 and not the 83SE and just use HDMI. But I want great 2 channel cd playing in addition to all the other features of the Oppo bluray.


----------



## lashler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18132748
> 
> 
> Be sure you are on HDMI 1 out as HDMI2 does not display any status. Also check Svideo out to your tv for status info



Thanks for the info. When I fired up the D2V this morning everything was back to normal.


----------



## lashler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18132827
> 
> 
> Make sure you are using the HDMI 1 output to your display (on screen display graphics will not show on the HDMI 2 output). Compare the picture in section 3.12 of the Manual to your Setup > Displays and Time Out menu settings, and correct any differences.
> 
> 
> If neither of those leads to a solution, reload the V2.08 firmware on top of itself. Be sure you Reload Factory Defaults prior to the install and that you have no powered HDMI connections during the install. Since some HDMI devices/displays keep their HDMI sockets live even when the are "off", I recommend you remove wall power from everything except the Anthem and your computer during the install.
> 
> 
> If still no joy, give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the info. When I fired up the D2V this morning everything was back to normal.


----------



## rfc_2002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/18134163
> 
> 
> I suggest that you check with Classe about this particular amp. The IR inputs in most Classe amps can also work as volt-sensing triggers to turn the amp on/off. So basically you connect the wire with the 1/8" mini-plugs from the D2V's 12 volt trigger to the Classe (the D2V comes with 3 triggers so you can connect more than one amp) . Then when you turn on the D2V, it will send a voltage signal to the Classe (the signal is just a 12 volt signal that means "I am on now") and the amp will turn on automatically. You will never have to turn the amp on/off manually again. If the CAV-180 amp has the volt-trigger sensor, it should work nicely for you.



Thank you Nicoff,

This was the answer I was hoping for. A simple 1/8 mini plug wire between the two. What confused me was the Classe listing a IR input and output jack. Not saying 12v trigger as the D2v says. Always good to ask.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/18137184
> 
> 
> This may be a dumb question, but I would appreciate a smart answer (not smart a**)
> 
> 
> If I were to connect an Oppo 83SE player to my Anthem D2V using the analog output from the Oppo, can I get a pure untouched bypass through the preamp without any additional A to D conversion or will it digitize the signal regardless?
> 
> 
> If there does exist a pure analog path, is it possible to incorporate a subwoofer into the mix so I have two front speakers plus subwoofer? If a pure analog mode does exist, I am not sure if the signal would have to go digital to add the subwoofer in or if it could stay analog with some internal crossover magic to incorporate the subwoofer.
> 
> 
> Is ARC available in all of these configuration or only when the signal is digitized and not in pure analog pass through if it exists.
> 
> 
> With the above being said, what is the best connection for CD player functionality of the Oppo 83SE, analog 2 channel or HDMI? If the Anthem will digitize the signal regardless, I am thinking I go with the 83 and not the 83SE and just use HDMI. But I want great 2 channel cd playing in addition to all the other features of the Oppo bluray.



Yes you can get a pure analog pass-through by setting that analog input to "ANALOG-Direct" instead of "ANALOG-DSP" in Setup > Source Setup.


When using Analog-Direct, *NO* processing happens. No ARC, no bass steering to a subwoofer, no speaker distance adjustment, no filters. Basically you have main volume control and that's it.


If you want to use a subwoofer for stereo analog input you have three choices:


1) Allow the Anthem to re-digitize the analog input and process it.


2) Use an external crossover after the LF/RF speaker outputs of your power amp and feed the bass to your subwoofer and the rest to LF/RF. This could, for example, be something built into your subwoofer. Note that a subwoofer wired this way acts as a "satellite sub" and so as far as the rest of the Anthem configuration is concerned you have no subwoofer. Instead you have "full range" LF/RF that just happen to be supported by the satellite sub wired to them.


3) Use the multi-channel analog outputs of the Oppo BDP83-SE (instead of the stereo analog outputs), and tell the Oppo that you have a 2.1 speaker configuration and that LF/RF are small. Wire these to the 6-ch inputs of the Anthem and again use ANALOG-Direct.


------------------------------------------------------


Personally, I think the advantages of ARC outweigh the improved analog output performance from the BDP83-SE. You can still use its analog outputs if you wish; just use ANALOG-DSP instead so that the analog input is digitized in the Anthem. Note, for the 2-CH input, when re-digitizing like this, be sure to raise the sampling rate to 96KHz from the default 44.1 (Setup > ADC). The 6-CH input already does that by default.


But my personal preference is to use HDMI audio for CDs as well as for movies, in which case there is no reason to spend the extra money on the BDP83-SE. Get the BDP83 instead. Please note, there are other stereo enthusiasts here who would argue that analog is your best input, even if you do intend to re-digitize it in the Anthem. If you agree with them then the BDP83-SE is quite a bargain for what it does.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

As Nick mentioned above, moving my sub made an unbelievable difference. I am now watching all my movies again and the LFE is now what I felt at the theatre. Eight feet up the wall and the HT changed more than any other thing I have done other than ARC. As he told me, Location, Location, Location and it's hard to argue.

John


----------



## barrygordon

With regard to the Classe and the discussion re IR and triggers. First of all I know nothing about the Classe and am speaking only in general terms. An IR input port is normally not the same as a trigger input port. An IR input port (and the symmetrical IR output port), deals with a coded carrier signal consisting genrally of PWM or phase encoded data. It may very well have a 12 volt swing. And there might be enough energy present in the stream to act as a 12 volt pulse to a trigger input.


Must trigger inputs will take a pulse or a level with the level being most common. an IR stream will not act as a 12 volt level since at some time it will be at 12 volts and sometimes at 0 volts. Most trigger inputs will accept signals in the 5-30 volt range, but do need some energy content (power). IR signals are very low power.


I would check with the classe customer support regarding what their IR input will do and whether a level presented to that input will turn on the amp. There are devices/circuits that will take an IR signal of a specific code and latch an output for a trigger input. You then have to decide on what IR code etc.


I don't think you will hurt anything by trying it and if the IR input does act as a voltage sensor then you are home free.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18136483
> 
> 
> Just for clarification. If you have 1 sub, then you can just run ARC. If you have more than 1 sub, then it's best to run the EQ on each sub first and then run ARC with the EQ still engaged on the subs. Am I correct?



The simple answers are yes and yes as long as sub eq is PBK.


----------



## Shrike645

hoehne


If you are going the analogue route and the 83se you might want to wire up the multi channel as Bob suggests but also the dedicated 2 channel audio outs from the 83se since these have a better set of dedicated DAC's. You can set both sources to analogue direct. If you decide to go digital I'd save a couple hundred and get the oppo 80. The D2(v) will do the DVD processing that you'd get with the 83.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18133581
> 
> 
> It appears to me that Dolby Volume Leveling OFF produces more volume gain than Dolby Volume Leveling LOW. That would seem to be a bug.
> 
> 
> This is more evident in Dolby Volume Movie than in Music.
> 
> 
> Can someone else try this and see if you can confirm?
> 
> --Bob



I agree Dolby Volume Movie is louder with the leveling off than with the low setting but think that Dolby Volume Music is a little quieter in the off than in the low setting. Either way I prefer Dolby Volume off right now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18139895
> 
> 
> I agree Dolby Volume Movie is louder with the leveling off than with the low setting but think that Dolby Volume Music is a little quieter in the off than in the low setting. Either way I prefer Dolby Volume off right now.



When I was testing this, I had Dolby Cal Level set at +6dB. That may be related. I don't yet have a handle on how the Cal Level and Leveling settings are SUPPOSED to interact.


----------------------------------------


I'm doing some experiments now with stereo audio input, Stereo audio mode output, Dolby Volume set to Music, Dolby Cal Level at 0dB, and Dolby Leveling OFF. If I play the music about 15dB down in volume from where I would normally play it, the Dolby Volume frequency related adjustments appear to be working without going overboard. But it will take more listening with different content to see if this is consistent.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/18137765
> 
> 
> The simple answers are yes and yes as long as sub eq is PBK.



I understand about running the sub's EQ first; but, I don't understand why it has to be PBK's EQ versus another sub's EQ. I would think any sub's EQ would do because the goal is to get the frequency across the frequency range as smooth as possible. As a result, I would think it would mean less work for ARC to do. Am I missing something?


----------



## Texas steve

Agree, just gotta ballance that with the"WF" (Wife Factor")!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18137302
> 
> 
> As Nick mentioned above, moving my sub made an unbelievable difference. I am now watching all my movies again and the LFE is now what I felt at the theatre. Eight feet up the wall and the HT changed more than any other thing I have done other than ARC. As he told me, Location, Location, Location and it's hard to argue.
> 
> John


----------



## Texas steve

That would be my thought as well. If you PBK it first, with only one sub, then ARC it, ARC would have less processing to do.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18141622
> 
> 
> I understand about running the sub's EQ first; but, I don't understand why it has to be PBK's EQ versus another sub's EQ. I would think any sub's EQ would do because the goal is to get the frequency across the frequency range as smooth as possible. As a result, I would think it would mean less work for ARC to do. Am I missing something?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18141622
> 
> 
> I understand about running the sub's EQ first; but, I don't understand why it has to be PBK's EQ versus another sub's EQ. I would think any sub's EQ would do because the goal is to get the frequency across the frequency range as smooth as possible. As a result, I would think it would mean less work for ARC to do. Am I missing something?



Probably because we were talking about Paradigm subs that could utilize the Perfect Bass Kit. Nick did mention PBK might work better with Arc given they use similar algorithms to smooth out frequencies where as other programs might not.

John


----------



## broker156

Here are my ARC readings. I have a D2 with definitive Tech towers left & right which each has 500 watt subwoofer. The center is Def Tech with a 150 watt subwoofer. Surrounds are Paradigm Studio ADP 590's.


Front towers are biwired & LFE to sub 1 & 2 in D2. Center is biwired only. Any suggestions?

Attachment 167205 

Attachment 167206 

Attachment 167207 

 

arc 2-10-10 targets.doc 96.5k . file

 

arc 2-10-10 surr center.doc 88.5k . file

 

arc 2-10-10 A.doc 80k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *broker156* /forum/post/18142595
> 
> 
> Here are my ARC readings. I have a D2 with definitive Tech towers left & right which each has 500 watt subwoofer. The center is Def Tech with a 150 watt subwoofer. Surrounds are Paradigm Studio ADP 590's.
> 
> 
> Front towers are biwired & LFE to sub 1 & 2 in D2. Center is biwired only. Any suggestions?
> 
> Attachment 167205
> 
> Attachment 167206
> 
> Attachment 167207



The volume on your front satellite subs is set too high.


Your Center satellite sub is not functioning.


Fix both of these problems and re-run ARC to find out what needs to he tackled next.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Also, there's no need to run Sub outputs from the D2 to the LFE inputs on your front satellite subs.


Instead, just wire them as satellite subs and tell ARC you have NO SUBWOOFER in your setup. ARC will set LF/RF to "Full Range" and the D2 will route LFE out to the LF/RF channels automatically (along with any bass that needs to be steered from other speakers). This wiring is preferred if LF/RF on their own can *NOT* handle down to 80Hz.


Alternatively, do NOT wire the front subs as satellite subs. Wire them as a pair of stand-alone subwoofers only (Sub outputs only from the D2). LF/RF will handle what they can handle and ARC will automatically fill in underneath them with your two front subs. LFE and bass steered from other speakers will also go to your two front subs. This wiring is preferred if LF/RF, on their own, *CAN* handle down to 80Hz (60Hz would be better).


If you don't know what LF/RF can handle on their own, simply do an ARC run with a 2.0 speaker configuration (LF/RF only) and turn off the satellite subs so they are not heard. See what you get for red Measured curves for LF/RF.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

can you measure centre channel positions by measuring with Front and centre only, selected with ARC? I have a dip at the room gain freq. so I will be moving my centre channel around and want to minimize the time for each measurement.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18143052
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> can you measure centre channel positions by measuring with Front and centre only, selected with ARC? I have a dip at the room gain freq. so I will be moving my centre channel around and want to minimize the time for each measurement.
> 
> John



Sure. Tell ARC you have a 3.0 speaker configuration (LF/RF/Center -- no sub), and that Music is Same As Movie.


To speed things further, leave the mic at mic position #1 for all 5 sweeps until you find a candidate location, then do a normal run with the normal 5 mic positions to confirm.


Keep in mind that sometimes the positioning adjustment you need is vertical.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




Bob Pariseau said:


> Sure. Tell ARC you have a 3.0 speaker configuration (LF/RF/Center -- no sub), and that Music is Same As Movie.
> 
> 
> To speed things further, leave the mic at mic position #1 for all 5 sweeps until you find a candidate location, then do a normal run with the normal 5 mic positions to confirm.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that sometimes the positioning adjustment you need is vertical.
> 
> --Bob[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> thanks Bob,
> 
> good point re: vertical positioning. This might be part of the problem as it is close to the floor and may be on the wrong angle.
> 
> John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18143194
> 
> 
> thanks Bob,
> 
> good point re: vertical positioning. This might be part of the problem as it is close to the floor and may be on the wrong angle.
> 
> John



Some center speakers actually need some air gap underneath them to produce proper low-midrange/high-bass. Check the manual for advice on that.

--Bob


----------



## gonzalc3

Has the "deep color" been fixed in the D2v?

Today, I setup the anthem output to YPbPr 444 and my oppo to YPbPr 444 ( as well as to 36 bits), and my RS35 only show 8 bits in the deep color.. In the past with a Marantz AV8003, when I set it up the hdmi to passthrough it show 12 bits instead of 8 bits...

Is there any setting that I am missing in the anthem so that the deep color works?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/18143701
> 
> 
> Has the "deep color" been fixed in the D2v?
> 
> Today, I setup the anthem output to YPbPr 444 and my oppo to YPbPr 444 ( as well as to 36 bits), and my RS35 only show 8 bits in the deep color.. In the past with a Marantz AV8003, when I set it up the hdmi to passthrough it show 12 bits instead of 8 bits...
> 
> Is there any setting that I am missing in the anthem so that the deep color works?



There is no setting in the D2v that enables or disables "Deep Color" output. It's supposed to work automatically according to what the display says it will accept at a given video resolution. I.e., the D2v is supposed to send out the largest bits/pixel the display says it will accept.


As I recall there was a report from someone here that "test" firmware V2.08a was supposed to have included a fix that enabled "Deep Color" output to some displays where that had previously not worked. However, such a change is not mentioned in the release notes, and I don't recall anyone actually confirming they found any such difference.


Your best bet is probably to get in touch with Anthem tech support and see if they know what the situation is with your particular projector.


If you haven't already done so, try both 1080p/60 and 1080p/24 from the D2v to your projector to see if it makes a difference with 36-bit video getting to the projector. Apparently there are some 1080p displays out there which will only accept 36-bit video when using one of those frame rates.


Another thing to try is to connect the Oppo directly to your projector and see if 36-bit gets to it that way.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18137290
> 
> 
> Yes you can get a pure analog pass-through by setting that analog input to "ANALOG-Direct" instead of "ANALOG-DSP" in Setup > Source Setup.
> 
> 
> When using Analog-Direct, *NO* processing happens. No ARC, no bass steering to a subwoofer, no speaker distance adjustment, no filters. Basically you have main volume control and that's it.
> 
> 
> If you want to use a subwoofer for stereo analog input you have three choices:
> 
> 
> 1) Allow the Anthem to re-digitize the analog input and process it.
> 
> 
> 2) Use an external crossover after the LF/RF speaker outputs of your power amp and feed the bass to your subwoofer and the rest to LF/RF. This could, for example, be something built into your subwoofer. Note that a subwoofer wired this way acts as a "satellite sub" and so as far as the rest of the Anthem configuration is concerned you have no subwoofer. Instead you have "full range" LF/RF that just happen to be supported by the satellite sub wired to them.
> 
> 
> 3) Use the multi-channel analog outputs of the Oppo BDP83-SE (instead of the stereo analog outputs), and tell the Oppo that you have a 2.1 speaker configuration and that LF/RF are small. Wire these to the 6-ch inputs of the Anthem and again use ANALOG-Direct.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Personally, I think the advantages of ARC outweigh the improved analog output performance from the BDP83-SE. You can still use its analog outputs if you wish; just use ANALOG-DSP instead so that the analog input is digitized in the Anthem. Note, for the 2-CH input, when re-digitizing like this, be sure to raise the sampling rate to 96KHz from the default 44.1 (Setup > ADC). The 6-CH input already does that by default.
> 
> 
> But my personal preference is to use HDMI audio for CDs as well as for movies, in which case there is no reason to spend the extra money on the BDP83-SE. Get the BDP83 instead. Please note, there are other stereo enthusiasts here who would argue that analog is your best input, even if you do intend to re-digitize it in the Anthem. If you agree with them then the BDP83-SE is quite a bargain for what it does.
> 
> --Bob




Bob used the word "outweigh". Well, we all know dear Bob. He is kind and an elegant person with words.

I would use the word "crush".

I've been there already and I own a 6000US$ audio cd-player, I repeat, audio only and cd only, no SACD or hybrid or anything.

It took me a while to overcome my "audiophile" convictions.

But finally I had to admit that nothing,


----------



## Kensmith48

2 questions: 1. If I have acoustical treatments on the walls does arc try to overcompensate with the room gain (boost)? I keep getting 3.9 no matter what I do. 2. Is there a way to print out the graph results to make it easier to compare different settings than trying to switch back and forth between screens?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18141622
> 
> 
> I understand about running the sub's EQ first; but, I don't understand why it has to be PBK's EQ versus another sub's EQ. I would think any sub's EQ would do because the goal is to get the frequency across the frequency range as smooth as possible. As a result, I would think it would mean less work for ARC to do. Am I missing something?



Not all correction algorithms are created equal and I'm echoing the unanimous results shown by those who tried BrandX + ARC vs solo ARC. Anyone is free to search for the opposite result. Processor load has nothing to do with this - ARC uses twice the processing power found just about anywhere else at this time and for the sub channel it's plenty. If there's improvement to be had when in-room response is wild, it's by moving the sub or adding another.


Advanced tip: A sub at the back of the room can function as a bass trap. Its level doesn't have to be as high as the main sub's - the rear one can be a "lesser" model. The goal and method for setting level is the same as adjusting phase when blending sub with main speakers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18144595
> 
> 
> 2 questions: 1. If I have acoustical treatments on the walls does arc try to overcompensate with the room gain (boost)? I keep getting 3.9 no matter what I do. 2. Is there a way to print out the graph results to make it easier to compare different settings than trying to switch back and forth between screens?



ARC does not artificially adjust the Room Gain on its own regardless of whether or not you have room treatments.


It simply reports what it finds in the Measurements and attempts to preserve just that -- the inherent Room Gain of the room as shown by the Measurements -- when it builds its solution (even as it is trying to eliminate other, undesirable room response characteristics).


So the only way you get a different Room Gain is to change the value yourself (Targets window) and leave the "Force" box checked. Then accept that change (which dismisses the Targets window) re-Calculate and re-Upload. No need to re-Measure.


Post your charts and we can see if there's something funny going on in your red Measured curves that may be confusing ARC's algorithm for detecting the inherent Room Gain in your room. Typically, such confusion results in ARC deciding the Room Gain is smaller than reality, however.


Inherent Room Gain in the 2-4dB range is pretty normal.


-------------------------------------------


One person here discovered that if he pasted his ARC charts into separate pages of a Microsoft Word file he could switch between pages rapidly to A/B the charts from two different setups. I imagine there are similar techniques that would work with other viewing apps.


Use the key combo for Screen Capture Active Window to copy the charts into the Clipboard, and then paste them. Since you can't get all the charts visible in the window you will need to scroll down the window and capture a second time to get the rest of the charts. Use ARC's View menu to switch between your Movie and Music charts. If you capture the Targets window as well, that's 5 pictures in all -- top and bottom charts of Movie, top and bottom charts of Music, and Targets.


And of course once you've got the charts pasted into some suitable app, you can print them out as well if you wish.


One way to post the charts here is to paste them into Windows Paint (bundled with Windows) and then Save As using JPEG file format to keep the file size reasonable. Do that for each of the 5 captures (resulting in 5 separate JPEG files), and then use the Attach Files feature here (found just below the box where you type in your post text). You can upload 3 files and then 2 more files to AVS as part of your post. They appear as links in your post. You can use the Preview button to make sure all is working as you want before you Submit your post. Once the picture files are uploaded, they are actually hosted here on AVS so you don't need them on your computer any longer.

--Bob


----------



## TheLion

@ Nick @ Anthem


The single most important factor why I didn't upgrade to an Anthem D2V (and ARC EQ for that matter) is it's - IMHO - lacking multiple subwoofer EQ capabilities.


Sure - there is always the possiblity of "double EQ" multiple subs. Using PBK/Audyssey or simple parametric EQ (Behringer/QSC units) to EQ each sub individually, set different delays/phase and then - in a second step - EQ the combined subwoofer response with ARC.


I don't like that.


IMHO the only sensible way to EQ bass response in a "typical" high end HT setup (I presume this is the target audience for a device like D2V) is to deal with multiple, not co-located subwoofers (very common in todays HTs) by EQ its individual AND combined bass response.


Is there a reason why ARC as implemented in eg. the D2V doesn't do that?


The other thing I'm curious about is your room gain parameter. Very smart idea IMHO. I tried this feature with the D2V of a friend and really enjoyed how it does allow you to "customize the sound signature" to a certain extend.


Why isn't there a simular parameter for the sub channel available? One that let's you define something like a house curve (increasing the (very) low frequency response instead of flat EQ)? This is another feature I have to use some additional external DSP for.


What do you think about these "feature requests"? Can you share information about which features Anthem is working on for future implementations of ARC?


Other than that I liked my ARC demo very much.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

TheLion,

Just so you know, the inability to EQ multiple subs separately is not so much a limitation of the ARC software as of the processor itself. All 4 sub outputs of the D2v (2 RCA and 2 XLR) send out the same signal except for the inherent 6dB volume difference between RCA and XLR.


So the basic setup controls for the sub output inside the processor (volume trim, crossover, polarity/phase, distance/timing adjustment) apply to all 4 sub outputs equally -- no separate settings -- and the same is true for any subwoofer signal processing ARC does.


The point being, any change here would require a new processor, not just an update to ARC.

--Bob


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18146056
> 
> 
> TheLion,
> 
> Just so you know, the inability to EQ multiple subs separately is not so much a limitation of the ARC software as of the processor itself. All 4 sub outputs of the D2v (2 RCA and 2 XLR) send out the same signal except for the inherent 6dB volume difference between RCA and XLR.
> 
> 
> So the basic setup controls for the sub output inside the processor (volume trim, crossover, polarity/phase, distance/timing adjustment) apply to all 4 sub outputs equally -- no separate settings -- and the same is true for any subwoofer signal processing ARC does.
> 
> 
> The point being, any change here would require a new processor, not just an update to ARC.
> 
> --Bob



But if one has a Paradigm PBK-1 ready sub this is not an issue.?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *osofast240sx* /forum/post/18146131
> 
> 
> But if one has a Paradigm PBK-1 ready sub this is not an issue.?



Yes and no. You can EQ each sub separately with its PBK if you wish, and then re-EQ the combo of subs with ARC. But you still need to manually volume balance and phase adjust each sub using its own built-in controls as the D2v controls are not separate per sub.


That said, my recommendation even with multiple subs is that you try things first using ARC alone (after pre-setting the subs built-in volume and phase controls). If that gives you a satisfactory solution then stop. Otherwise, do the individual PBK stuff and then redo ARC on top of that.


Remember that with multiple subs you don't set each individually to 75dB. Their outputs add (logarithmically really). A typical answer for 2 subs is to set each to 72dB. The precise answer depends on where the subs are located in the room, but ARC will do the final trim, so no need to be that precise. If the subs individually are producing the same SPL, and the sub volume trim ARC Uploads after hearing the combo of all your subs is within a few dB of 0dB, then you are fine.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Looks like my question on sub PBK and ARC started a good fire storm didnt it Bob/Nick!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18146339
> 
> 
> Yes and no. You can EQ each sub separately with its PBK if you wish, and then re-EQ the combo of subs with ARC. But you still need to manually volume balance and phase adjust each sub using its own built-in controls as the D2v controls are not separate per sub.
> 
> 
> That said, my recommendation even with multiple subs is that you try things first using ARC alone (after pre-setting the subs built-in volume and phase controls). If that gives you a satisfactory solution then stop. Otherwise, do the individual PBK stuff and then redo ARC on top of that.
> 
> 
> Remember that with multiple subs you don't set each individually to 75dB. Their outputs add (logarithmically really). A typical answer for 2 subs is to set each to 72dB. The precise answer depends on where the subs are located in the room, but ARC will do the final trim, so no need to be that precise. If the subs individually are producing the same SPL, and the sub volume trim ARC Uploads after hearing the combo of all your subs is within a few dB of 0dB, then you are fine.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## BillW

Advanced tip: A sub at the back of the room can function as a bass trap. Its level doesn't have to be as high as the main sub's - the rear one can be a "lesser" model. The goal and method for setting level is the same as adjusting phase when blending sub with main speakers.[/quote]


That is a very interesting idea!!


Nick, it's good seeing you posting more often - maybe things are calming down?


----------



## jayray

I have included the charts for my two measurements of my sub, one in the corner and the other one eight feet up the same side. I did nothing else. A picture is worth a thousand words.


----------



## mlbrand

If you have ANY ability to move multiple subs to their best joint frequency response locations _before_ EQ, then IMHO it's a major waste of resources and time to try and EQ them separately. Why do them separately when the other sub could well cancel out _or_ boost the peak or dip you just tamed with EQ? I have tried EQ'ing multiple subs separately with the "old school" method of REQ software and a parametric equalizer (BFD), and trust me, you learn a lot when you do this. It was a total waste of time to do them separately, I was way better off experimenting in first locating the subs as ideally as possible by measured joint response, and _then_ EQ'ing them together as one sub. That's what I have done with my dual subs, and combined with proper placement and ARC, I have a pretty darn flat response, ie nice tight bass, in my almost perfectly square room.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/18149643
> 
> 
> If you have ANY ability to move multiple subs to their best joint frequency response locations _before_ EQ, then IMHO it's a major waste of resources and time to try and EQ them separately. Why do them separately when the other sub could well cancel out _or_ boost the peak or dip you just tamed with EQ? I have tried EQ'ing multiple subs separately with the "old school" method of REQ software and a parametric equalizer (BFD), and trust me, you learn a lot when you do this. It was a total waste of time to do them separately, I was way better off experimenting in first locating the subs as ideally as possible by measured joint response, and _then_ EQ'ing them together as one sub. That's what I have done with my dual subs, and combined with proper placement and ARC, I have a pretty darn flat response, ie nice tight bass, in my almost perfectly square room.



When you feel this LFE now, does it feel like the HOLY GRAIL?









John


----------



## broker156

Bob, Thank you for your help. I think I lowered the volume on the front subs & added sub to center. I redid the measurements and here the results.

Attachment 167348 

Attachment 167349 

Attachment 167350 

 

arc 2-16-10 A.doc 89.5k . file

 

arc 2-16-10 center sub.doc 89k . file

 

arc 2-16-10 targets.doc 102k . file


----------



## gonzalc3

Thanks Bob! I tested by conecting the oppo directly to the projector and it shows 12 bits..I guess I have to call Anthem tech support..


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18144181
> 
> 
> There is no setting in the D2v that enables or disables "Deep Color" output. It's supposed to work automatically according to what the display says it will accept at a given video resolution. I.e., the D2v is supposed to send out the largest bits/pixel the display says it will accept.
> 
> 
> As I recall there was a report from someone here that "test" firmware V2.08a was supposed to have included a fix that enabled "Deep Color" output to some displays where that had previously not worked. However, such a change is not mentioned in the release notes, and I don't recall anyone actually confirming they found any such difference.
> 
> 
> Your best bet is probably to get in touch with Anthem tech support and see if they know what the situation is with your particular projector.
> 
> 
> If you haven't already done so, try both 1080p/60 and 1080p/24 from the D2v to your projector to see if it makes a difference with 36-bit video getting to the projector. Apparently there are some 1080p displays out there which will only accept 36-bit video when using one of those frame rates.
> 
> 
> Another thing to try is to connect the Oppo directly to your projector and see if 36-bit gets to it that way.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *broker156* /forum/post/18150001
> 
> 
> Bob, Thank you for your help. I think I lowered the volume on the front subs & added sub to center. I redid the measurements and here the results.
> 
> Attachment 167348
> 
> Attachment 167349
> 
> Attachment 167350



OK, you've got satellite sub output on Center now, but it's volume is quite a bit too high -- about 12dB too high. This is causing ARC to pick a high crossover for Center to evade that excess bass. But this is not good because it sends dialog to the Subwoofer channel.


[NOTE: If your previous Center Measured curves reflected what Center alone can do, then it really does need some bass support underneath it. But with its satellite sub now functioning, the bass combo is way too hot.]


You've reduced the volume on the satellite subs for LF/RF, but it is still about 6dB too high. Again, this is causing ARC to pick a high crossover for them.


You did not mention if you altered the wiring at all. If you are separately sending the LF/RF output both to the LF/RF main speakers and to their satellite subs (i.e., without a crossover limiting what frequencies are sent to each), and if LF/RF are actually capable of producing bass on their own, then you've effectively doubled the bass output at the frequencies both the mains and their satellite subs can play -- which means 6dB too high.


I notice that the measurement of the Anthem sub outputs (fed into the LFE input of the two front satellite subs in your previous wiring, is not showing as over volume in its red Measured curve. Presuming the volume setting in the satellite subs equally affects its main input and its LFE input, that would be more evidence that you are doubling bass volume for the LF/RF signals. Alternatively if you are mixing RCA and XLR connectors you may not have noticed the comment in Chapter 2 of the manual that there is a designed-in 6dB difference between RCA and XLR output that you need to take into account if you mix them.


Of course if your front satellite subs have separate volume controls for their main input and their LFE input, it could simply be that the main input control is still set too high -- again about 6dB -- while the LFE input control is about right.


[NOTE: If you are Uploading these results, check the volume trims ARC is Uploading into Setup > Level Calibration. Ideally, they should all be a few dB either side of 0dB, but I suspect with your bass problems that you may be pushing ARC to need more severe volume trims.]


-------------------------------------------------


If you are going to use satellite subs, as opposed to standalone subs with the main speakers going only as far down as they can on their own, the "best" way to wire them is through a crossover -- typically built into the satellite sub itself.


That is, you take the power-amp (speaker) output for LF/RF and send it to the speaker level input of the satellite sub on each side. The crossover inside the sub extracts the bass the sub will play and passes on the higher frequencies to its speaker level output. You wire that speaker level output to the LF/RF speaker input jacks. That is, LF/RF have no direct connection to the power amps.


Meanwhile, again, you need no direct connection from the Anthem to the LFE input of the front satellite subs. Instead you tell ARC that you have NO SUBWOOFER. ARC will then treat LF/RF as "Full Range", and will also send LFE content (and any bass steered from other speakers) to the LF/RF output -- which means it will be picked up by the satellite subs wired this way.


You wire the satellite sub for Center the same way, except you don't need to set it to full range. The low end of the combo (main Center speaker and its satellite sub) will be supported by bass steered to the LF/RF outputs.


--------------------------------------------------


So the first thing to do is adjust your wiring if it is not correct. Keep in mind that with satellite subs, the sub and its main speaker are playing the same content over a significant range of frequencies. That means it is important that the satellite sub be phase matched to its main speaker, as well as finding the best setting of sub volume and crossover frequency.


And once again, if LF/RF are able to go into mid-bass all on their own (80Hz or below), there is no need to set them up with satellite subs. Bass below that is not directional so there's is no point in trying to get "stereo bass" down there. Instead wire LF/RF normally to their power amp and wire the two front subs to the two sub outputs of the Anthem. No other wires for those. ARC will hear how far down LF/RF can go on their own and will underpin them with support from the front subs -- now treated as standalone subs -- by steering bass below that to those front subs.


-----------------------------------------------------


Now your front subs, through their LFE input, only show good down to about 30Hz. This is not atypical for home theater setups but you should be aware that there are nice subs out there which will go a good octave lower.


So yet another approach here, and again this assumes LF/RF even NEED satellite sub support, is to set up LF/RF with satellite subs (via a crossover as described above -- not simply bi-wired -- and NO LFE input to those satellite subs.


Meanwhile, get another sub that can go deep and connect that as your sole stand-alone sub (sub output of the Anthem). It will be sent LFE content. It will also be sent steered bass from the main speakers. It needs to be able to go up fairly high in bass to properly underpin your Surround speakers (which need about a 115Hz crossover), but it should also go deeper than 30Hz to be worth the effort. Then set LF/RF and C (all 3 of which are now combo speakers with their own satellite subs) as NOT "Full Range" -- i.e., just the way you have them now in Targets. With proper setup of their Satellite subs, ARC should be comfortable putting a rather low crossover on those 3 -- perhaps 40Hz. And then you new stand-alone sub would take over from there -- the lowest LF/RF/C bass being steered to it by the ARC solution.


------------------------------------------------


If all of this sounds rather complicated, well I'm afraid that's just the nature of the beast when you go the route of satellite subs (or "powered woofers" as perhaps a better term for them).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/18150337
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob! I tested by conecting the oppo directly to the projector and it shows 12 bits..I guess I have to call Anthem tech support..



Okey doke. Which firmware are you running again? Perhaps you need the latest "test" firmware -- V2.08d at this point -- to see if the rumor about improved "Deep Color" output support has any reality.


And again, if you haven't done so already, check to see if your projector is sensitive to whether the input is 1080p/24 vs. 1080p/60 in accepting 12 bits per component (36 bits per pixel). You can check that via direct connect from the Oppo as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18149584
> 
> 
> I have included the charts for my two measurements of my sub, one in the corner and the other one eight feet up the same side. I did nothing else. A picture is worth a thousand words.



Wow! You are saying this change in mid-bass came about just due to moving the subwoofer? That's surprising. I would never suspect the high bass roll off in your Before sub was a room coupling issue.


Instead, your Before and After pictures look to me like your Before sub had its internal 80Hz (or even lower) crossover engaged and your After sub had it bypassed.

--Bob


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18150456
> 
> 
> Okey doke. Which firmware are you running again? Perhaps you need the latest "test" firmware -- V2.08d at this point -- to see if the rumor about improved "Deep Color" output support has any reality.
> 
> 
> And again, if you haven't done so already, check to see if your projector is sensitive to whether the input is 1080p/24 vs. 1080p/60 in accepting 12 bits per component (36 bits per pixel). You can check that via direct connect from the Oppo as well.
> 
> --Bob



Bob


I am using the official firmware 2.08... I tested at 1080p 24fps..

I will test at 60 fps to see what happens...


----------



## DaveBoswell

I've noticed that there is significant variety in the shape of posted dashed line Subwoofer target curves in the range from 20Hz to around 40Hz. In some cases it's flat from 20Hz to the point where the target drops at the commencement of the crossover range, whereas in many others (including mine), it's more parabolic in overall shape and ramps up from as much as -10dB at 20Hz, to a peak in the mid 30Hz range.


Should not the Target curve for the sub simply be flat (or at the very least mostly flat) in this range? And while I understand that the full frequency target curves are intentionally non-flat to match psychoacoustic perceptions of ideal sound - but then why would this be different for different users and rooms - or even with same sub, same room, different placement (as demonstrated in jayray's post above)?


I hate to think that ARC is adding filters to frequencies


----------



## TheLion




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18146056
> 
> 
> TheLion,
> 
> Just so you know, the inability to EQ multiple subs separately is not so much a limitation of the ARC software as of the processor itself. All 4 sub outputs of the D2v (2 RCA and 2 XLR) send out the same signal except for the inherent 6dB volume difference between RCA and XLR.
> 
> 
> So the basic setup controls for the sub output inside the processor (volume trim, crossover, polarity/phase, distance/timing adjustment) apply to all 4 sub outputs equally -- no separate settings -- and the same is true for any subwoofer signal processing ARC does.
> 
> 
> The point being, any change here would require a new processor, not just an update to ARC.
> 
> --Bob




Thank you Bob, I wasn't aware of that. So the multiple sub-outs of the D2V are nothing more than a glorified splitter/Y-cable...


So just the newest generation of Pre/Pro's (eg. Onkyo 5507) allow you to benefit from separate sub out's (different levels, polarity/phase,...).


The problem with that is that I am going to upgrade to multiple Seaton Submersive (2) 's. I will be able to optimize sub location somewhatr in my dedicated room but I still need to set phase/distance/... separatly. Given that the Seaton's don't have a phase adjustment build in I would need to continue using an external DSP.


One question remains - if I use just one sub does ARC optimize the phase/polarity/delay setting for it automatically or is manual adjustment necessary?



The other question remains - why is there no room gain setting for the sub/LFE channel? Resulting in a "house curve" with pronounced very low frequency response.


Thanks.


----------



## thebland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheLion* /forum/post/18151676
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob, I wasn't aware of that. So the multiple sub-outs of the D2V are nothing more than a glorified splitter/Y-cable...
> 
> 
> So just the newest generation of Pre/Pro's (eg. Onkyo 5507) allow you to benefit from separate sub out's (different levels, polarity/phase,...).
> 
> 
> The problem with that is that I am going to upgrade to multiple Seaton Submersive (2) 's. I will be able to optimize sub location somewhatr in my dedicated room but I still need to set phase/distance/... separatly. Given that the Seaton's don't have a phase adjustment build in I would need to continue using an external DSP.
> 
> 
> One question remains - if I use just one sub does ARC optimize the phase/polarity/delay setting for it automatically or is manual adjustment necessary?
> 
> 
> 
> The other question remains - why is there no room gain setting for the sub/LFE channel? Resulting in a "house curve" with pronounced very low frequency response.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



If you want to do subs right, you have to bypass the EQ / DSP of your Anthem and go with a dedicated DSP. Art S., myself and others with reference sub systems use products like Dolby Lake and QSC. Mark Seaton installs many QSC DSP-30 eqs with his subs. I use a QSC DSP-30. It is excellent.. If you want the best response from your subs, you will want to buy one of the above and bypass your Anthem (or any SSP for that reason).


*Mark is working on a new custom sub array for me and guess how, I'll EQ it.... yep, QSC.


----------



## DaveBoswell

TheLion,


It appears the "house curve" is applied to all channels, including sub/LFE as you adjust the room gain setting - try this to see: set room gain to "0" and note the flat target curve for all channels, and note also that the peak dB of the sub channel matches the dB of the flat portion of the other channels (ideally at around 75dB). Then set it to it to 4 and note that the peak target dB for the Sub/LFE now is around 2-3dB higher than the the bump in the satellites produced by the room gain setting between 100Hz and 300Hz. If you were to imagine the combined sub+satellite target curve as the approximate addition of these curves, you would see the classic house curve with a gradual drop in target dB sloping down from 20Hz to 300Hz.


Dave


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thebland* /forum/post/18151787
> 
> 
> If you want to do subs right, you have to bypass the EQ / DSP of your Anthem and go with a dedicated DSP. Art S., myself and others with reference sub systems use products like Dolby Lake and QSC. Mark Seaton installs many QSC DSP-30 eqs with his subs. I use a QSC DSP-30. It is excellent.. If you want the best response from your subs, you will want to buy one of the above and bypass your Anthem (or any SSP for that reason).
> 
> 
> *Mark is working on a new custom sub array for me and guess how, I'll EQ it.... yep, QSC.



Another product that works quite well is the Behringer DCX 2496, I just got my final TC-Sounds 18" LMS's in place. None of my DIY subs have phase settings either, but the 2496 is the jackknife, polarity, infinite phase control as well as unlimited Eq-ing up to 6 subs. We spent some time yesterday running sweeps to integrate & EQ my 4 subs in room. Set it and forget it... Run ARC on the D2v after that and I'm golden...


My setup is flat.... in my bedroom I have a F112 and there is a natural "house curve".... it sounds boomy - not natural. I haven't eq'd that yet but I will. It certainly is powerful, but just doesn't seem right...


----------



## studlygoorite

 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post18152564 


I started this thread in the subs area and then thought, what about Bob?







Bob usually has some good input.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

*Multiple sub channels with independent eq:*

The question is, which other feature would you like to be crippled to make way? Letting each sub* handle itself and then eqing the group will be the most practical way to do this until more powerful DSPs can do it all. It's evolution. The dual-Motorola (now Freescale) thing is something we developed in the D1 days and it had its challenges. The thought of three DSPs (well, six now that they're dual-core) isn't very appealing. Keep in mind that our DSPs are running custom 56-bit calculations at the source's sample rate, even if that's 192 kHz, with minimal latency. Pretty much the rest of the world forces everything to 48 kHz at a word length nowhere near what we're doing. It's in the name of no audible rounding error, a mandate since the AVM 2 days. Again, you have to try something to see how it'll work - speculation has little value.


*preferably newer Paradigm subs
http://anthemelectronics.blogspot.co...-many-for.html 

*Room gain profile for sub channel:*

Yes, the sub channel does include room gain and it's hard to tell without comparing sub level to hump in other channels.

*Viewing more than one ARC result on computer screen:*

Double click on one file to open it then double click on another. Each gets its own window. Maximize and switch between them.

*Why some sub results show "parabolic" response:*

After-correction low end rolloff is there because it was there before correction. Corrected response is the same as uncorrected response minus the intervening wiggles. If response ought to be better for the sub model, reposition and remeasure. The ability to put a sub anywhere in the room is its unsung advantage. As Anthem pre/pro manuals pretty much always said, temporarily place the sub in the listening area, play music with a good bass range, walk around the room to listen for locations where bass sounds most even and make one of them the sub's permanent position. ARC merely means that the word "most" can be ignored in that sentence, and ARC graphs mean faster better results vs trying to remember what the last position sounded like. Ignoring any other part of the manual is forbidden.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

I'm sorry but that's all I have time for. Advice is always available from

[email protected] 


905-362-0958 option 2


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks Nick, we really appreciate you visiting and being part of this Forum. We all have a passion for sound and have choose Anthem as our vehicle. Its great to have you be here to assure our money was well spent and supported.


It is after-all not the original expense (ok dont mention that to our wives) but the support to maximize the final results that justifies choosing a product.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/18153067
> 
> 
> I'm sorry but that's all I have time for. Advice is always available from
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> 905-362-0958 option 2


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18152935
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post18152564
> 
> 
> I started this thread in the subs area and then thought, what about Bob?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob usually has some good input.



Tell ARC you have a 2.1 speaker configuration (Lf/RF/Sub) and that Music is same as Movie.


Leave the ARC mic at mic position #1 for all 5 sweep tones.


Now you can run ARC fairly quickly to try different sub positions. What you are looking for is improvement in the UNCORRECTED red Measured curve for the sub -- ignore everything else. The CORRECTED green Calculated curve is irrelevant for this.


When you find a candidate position, rerun ARC using your normal mic positions to confirm it still works well when the ARC mic sampling area is spread out normally. Again, it is the red Measured curve for the sub that you care about here. Then add back the rest of your speakers and your separate Music configuration.


It's largely a matter of trial and error. Even inches can matter at bass frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheLion* /forum/post/18151676
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob, I wasn't aware of that. So the multiple sub-outs of the D2V are nothing more than a glorified splitter/Y-cable...
> 
> 
> So just the newest generation of Pre/Pro's (eg. Onkyo 5507) allow you to benefit from separate sub out's (different levels, polarity/phase,...).
> 
> 
> The problem with that is that I am going to upgrade to multiple Seaton Submersive (2) 's. I will be able to optimize sub location somewhatr in my dedicated room but I still need to set phase/distance/... separatly. Given that the Seaton's don't have a phase adjustment build in I would need to continue using an external DSP.
> 
> 
> One question remains - if I use just one sub does ARC optimize the phase/polarity/delay setting for it automatically or is manual adjustment necessary?
> 
> 
> 
> The other question remains - why is there no room gain setting for the sub/LFE channel? Resulting in a "house curve" with pronounced very low frequency response.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



The sub outs of the Anthem are identical, but they are high quality. Distinct sub outs often imply a tradeoff with quality.


ARC does not / can not set sub Polarity and Phase for you since it only listens to one speaker at a time. You must set Polarity and Phase manually. Similarly, ARC can not tell if you have one or more of your main speakers miss-wired with reversed polarity. You must check this yourself.


ARC also does not set speaker distance for you. You must set this manually. And you must correctly identify your surround speakers as direct firing or dipole.


Phase is a challenge with multiple subs. Keep in mind that phase controls only operate in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies. Polarity operates across the full range of bass, but of course it only offers two choices. (This is because a full frequency range adjustable phase control is too costly/hard to implement.) Now when matching one sub to the mains, the crossover region is what really matters. But with two subs they will be playing the same content over the entire range of bass frequencies -- more than just near the crossover. And Phase can't correct the entire range.


The bottom line then, is that you have to treat the sub system as a whole -- including any interaction between the subs. So you can use Phase in the D2v to improve how that system meshes with the main speakers, but the interaction between the subs themselves often needs to be handled more by relative positioning anyway EVEN IF the individual subs had their own phase controls.


------------------------------


For subs with Polarity/Phase controls built in, the typical procedure is to power one at a time and set it to match with LF. When all subs are in phase with LF then they are also in phase with each other NEAR THE CROSSOVER FREQUENCIES. That takes care of the interaction between the set of subs and the mains.


But be of good cheer, because ARC *DOES* hear the entire set of subs playing at the same time, and any remaining problems resulting from their direct interaction with each other will show up in the Measured data and ARC can correct that -- or you will see it in the Measured curves and you can reposition to pre-correct that.

--Bob


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18153644
> 
> 
> Similarly, ARC can not tell if you have one or more of your main speakers miss-wired with reversed polarity. You must check this yourself.



I hear the logic in this, but I was helping a friend with a Denon 1910, and when running the built-in Audyssey, it kept warning us of polarity mis-matches between speakers. Eventually I was able to get everything right, but it was a nice feature to have (since the wiring was in-wall and not labeled/colored at all).


So there must be some way to do this, even doing one speaker at a time. Perhaps comparing everything to the LF scan?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/18153690
> 
> 
> I hear the logic in this, but I was helping a friend with a Denon 1910, and when running the built-in Audyssey, it kept warning us of polarity mis-matches between speakers. Eventually I was able to get everything right, but it was a nice feature to have (since the wiring was in-wall and not labeled/colored at all).
> 
> 
> So there must be some way to do this, even doing one speaker at a time. Perhaps comparing everything to the LF scan?



I don't know what it might be doing.


Checking/correcting main speaker polarity is trivially easy with a good calibration disc. MUCH easier than setting sub Polarity/Phase. The AIX audio calibration Blu-Ray has a particularly nice implementation of this:

http://www.aixrecords.com/catalog/oppo_bd.html 


You start by declaring the wiring for LF "correct" and then you go around the room, adjacent speaker pair by adjacent speaker pair, correcting the wiring for each next speaker to match the set before it that have already been made "correct". Takes almost no time at all and you only have to do it once as it is not affected by speaker re-positioning (so long as the wiring doesn't change).

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18149584
> 
> 
> I have included the charts for my two measurements of my sub, one in the corner and the other one eight feet up the same side. I did nothing else. A picture is worth a thousand words.



Jayray,

What do you mean by 8 feet UP? Did you move the sub 8 feet away from the front wall?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

What? You haven't seen his new sub chandelier?









--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18154606
> 
> 
> What? You haven't seen his new sub chandelier?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



You have got to be kidding me!!!

Does he have the sub located like a sattellite wall speaker?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18150468
> 
> 
> Wow! You are saying this change in mid-bass came about just due to moving the subwoofer? That's surprising. I would never suspect the high bass roll off in your Before sub was a room coupling issue.
> 
> 
> Instead, your Before and After pictures look to me like your Before sub had its internal 80Hz (or even lower) crossover engaged and your After sub had it bypassed.
> 
> --Bob



I can assure you Bob, nothing was touched at the back of the sub. Everything was as it should be re: crossover( set to 150 Hz), phase(0) and contour(0). You now have another trick for people that have my type of curve. I have seen some others in previous posts.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18154464
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> What do you mean by 8 feet UP? Did you move the sub 8 feet away from the front wall?










That's funny, no up the side wall towards the seating area and pointing into the room at a 90 degree angle and the back of the sub several inches from the wall. It was in the right corner pointing toward the back, similar to alot of setups.

John


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18154809
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's funny, no up the side wall towards the seating area and pointing into the room at a 90 degree angle and the back of the sub several inches from the wall. It was in the right corner pointing toward the back, similar to alot of setups.
> 
> John



Wow.

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18154778
> 
> 
> I can assure you Bob, nothing was touched at the back of the sub. Everything was as it should be re: crossover( set to 150 Hz), phase(0) and contour(0). You now have another trick for people that have my type of curve. I have seen some others in previous posts.
> 
> John



That really is quite interesting. Typical room nulls are much more sharply notched.


But you can't argue with success!

--Bob


----------



## JimmyTango

Anyone try the boom mic from radioshack? wondering if it fits or not, or to order the one mentioned previously from B&H. I want it now, and my local radioshack claims to have it in stock, but only want to buy if it works.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=2102922#


----------



## davoe

I bought a boom stand for the mic and made several measurements. I ended up going back to the Anthem stand. I think you can get faulty measurements if you start to position the mic too close to the seat back of the listening positions. I have decided from much experimentation, that Anthem knows what they are talking about, so I have gone back to positioning the mic in front of the seating positions, leave room gain, cut off freq. and bandwidth alone. Great results.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18155612
> 
> 
> I bought a boom stand for the mic and made several measurements. I ended up going back to the Anthem stand. I think you can get faulty measurements if you start to position the mic too close to the seat back of the listening positions. I have decided from much experimentation, that Anthem knows what they are talking about, so I have gone back to positioning the mic in front of the seating positions, leave room gain, cut off freq. and bandwidth alone. Great results.



You don't want the mic tip adjacent to a seat back or other reflective/blocking surface like a wall.


Raise the mic tip a few inches to clear a seat back or position the mic about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from a seat back.


However, since bass response in particular can vary significantly over a few feet, it is still likely better to use a boom arm to get the mic over the seat cushion nearer to the seated head position rather than using the vertical stand on the floor in front of the seat (e.g., perhaps 3 feet forward of the head position).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimmyTango* /forum/post/18155503
> 
> 
> Anyone try the boom mic from radioshack? wondering if it fits or not, or to order the one mentioned previously from B&H. I want it now, and my local radioshack claims to have it in stock, but only want to buy if it works.
> 
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=2102922#



The mic clip included with the Anthem stand has a standard thread size, so the odds are good.


Anyway, if your local Radio Shack has their model in stock, just unscrew the plastic mic clip from the end of the Anthem stand, take it over to Radio Shack, and see if it fits.

--Bob


----------



## davoe

If I were to raise the mic tip, it would no longer be at ear level (my tweeters are exactly at ear level).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18157042
> 
> 
> If I were to raise the mic tip, it would no longer be at ear level (my tweeters are exactly at ear level).



Yes, I understand, I have the same configuration.


But unless your seat backs are unusually high, raising the mic tip a few inches to get it above the seat back won't make much difference in the high frequency direction angle, nor will moving the mic forward (closer to the screen) about a foot.


In my case, at least, I know my "seated ear height" varies at least that much according to how much I happen to slouch into the seat.

--Bob


----------



## broker156

Bob, Thank you for all of your help. The wiring stayed the same. The fronts are definitive tech towers with powered sub. LF/RF are biwired & LFE (RCA) to Anthem sub 1&2. All the rest are XLR. Center is biwired & has a 150 watt sub. Surrounds are Paridigm Studio 590's.


Level Calibration is: Noise Level -7.0 LF -0.5 center -1.5 RF -0.5 surr R +0.5

surr L +1.5 sub movie & music +2.5.


There is not much room to lower the center sub any further without turning it off.


Any suggestions?

Attachment 167445 

Attachment 167446 

Attachment 167447 

 

arc 2-17-10 fronts.doc 77k . file

 

arc 2-17-10 center sub.doc 84.5k . file

 

arc 2-17-10 targets.doc 93k . file


----------



## skman09

I no longer get any video from my AVM50V. HDMI output1 doesn't get any video or sound and HDMI output2 video and sound cuts in and out. I've tried different HDMI cables but I get the same thing. Does this mean both of my HDMI outputs from my AVM50V are bad?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *skman09* /forum/post/18157162
> 
> 
> I no longer get any video from my AVM50V. HDMI output1 doesn't get any video or sound and HDMI output2 video and sound cuts in and out. I've tried different HDMI cables but I get the same thing. Does this mean both of my HDMI outputs from my AVM50V are bad?



It could simply be that the HDMI daughter board (plugged into the video board) needs to be reseated.


Give Anthem tech support a call so they can diagnose this with you.


------------------------------


What firmware are you running now? They may ask you to try re-installing the firmware. Press Select once on the remote to see the firmware version in the Front Panel display.


-----------------------------


Save your settings (Setup > Save and Load Settings) and then reload Factory defaults. Make the minimal changes in Setup > Video Output to enable video to your display and see if you can bring up the Setup menu itself on your display. It is independent of any source device (it is an internally generated S-video source).


You can do all of this via the Front Panel display. The Setup menu pictures in the Manual are a big help when trying to find your way around using the Front Panel display. Also note that Setup menu entries are numbered and lettered which will also help.


If you are currently using 1080p, try switching video output to 1080i or even 480p. 480p is the "simplest" video signal. This is for diagnosis, not a permanent change.


Also check your setting for Setup > Video Output > HDMI Sync. If that has accidentally been changed you could lose video.


------------------------------


Try hooking an HDMI source device directly to the display to make sure the HDMI input in the display itself is functioning correctly.


Again 480p is the simplest signal, also try 1080i before trying 1080p.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *broker156* /forum/post/18157158
> 
> 
> Bob, Thank you for all of your help. The wiring stayed the same. The fronts are definitive tech towers with powered sub. LF/RF are biwired & LFE (RCA) to Anthem sub 1&2. All the rest are XLR. Center is biwired & has a 150 watt sub. Surrounds are Paridigm Studio 590's.
> 
> 
> Level Calibration is: Noise Level -7.0 LF -0.5 center -1.5 RF -0.5 surr R +0.5
> 
> surr L +1.5 sub movie & music +2.5.
> 
> 
> There is not much room to lower the center sub any further without turning it off.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Attachment 167445
> 
> Attachment 167446
> 
> Attachment 167447



This is *MUCH* better! This should actually sound quite good.


I still think you've complicated things for yourself by bi-wiring the powered woofers this way, but you seem to have tamed those complexities.


All of the major problems are fixed in this run. What's left is more tweaking refinements.


First, your sub (made up of the LFE input feed to your LF/RF satellite subs) is still only good down to about 28Hz. It is possible you could get some "boundary gain" boost by moving both of those subs closer to the corner behind them. What you are losing is the "subsonic" bass below 30Hz -- the stuff you more feel than hear. But this may just be the best these front subs can do for you.


One thing to check however, is that you don't have some sort of subsonic filter turned on in those front subs. Sometimes this masquerades as an adjustment for when the sub is "close to a wall". You want to disable any such filter (i.e., lie and say the sub is not close to a wall) so that the sub does not artificially reduce its low end response.


---------------------------------


RF has one wobble either side of 225Hz which is really the only remaining residual error of note. This is likely overshoot from the work ARC is doing to correct the dip in RF at 150Hz.


With the rest of the solution looking so good now, it is annoying to see this remain, so if I were you I would try to tweak the Targets a little bit to see if you can find a sweet spot set of Target settings that works as well as what you have now and eliminates that overshoot.


There are two likely ways to go here. First, try tweaking Room Gain up or down a little bit from the value ARC found -- e.g 2.4, 2.5, or 2.6 dB. Second, try backing off Max EQ Frequency a bit -- e.g., 19.5KHz instead of 20KHz. You're just trying to change the limits ARC is trying to hit a little bit to see if the math snaps into place all the way across.


Center has a similar wobble, not as large, at 475Hz.


You can do experiments like this without having to re-Measure. Just re-Calculate until you find a good answer and then Upload that.


But even if you just Uploaded what you have right now, it should sound very good indeed. Enjoy!

--Bob


----------



## skman09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18157233
> 
> 
> It could simply be that the HDMI daughter board (plugged into the video board) needs to be reseated.
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call so they can diagnose this with you.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> What firmware are you running now? They may ask you to try re-installing the firmware. Press Select once on the remote to see the firmware version in the Front Panel display.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------
> 
> 
> Save your settings (Setup > Save and Load Settings) and then reload Factory defaults. Make the minimal changes in Setup > Video Output to enable video to your display and see if you can bring up the Setup menu itself on your display. It is independent of any source device (it is an internally generated S-video source).
> 
> 
> You can do all of this via the Front Panel display. The Setup menu pictures in the Manual are a big help when trying to find your way around using the Front Panel display. Also note that Setup menu entries are numbered and lettered which will also help.
> 
> 
> If you are currently using 1080p, try switching video output to 1080i or even 480p. 480p is the "simplest" video signal. This is for diagnosis, not a permanent change.
> 
> 
> Also check your setting for Setup > Video Output > HDMI Sync. If that has accidentally been changed you could lose video.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Try hooking an HDMI source device directly to the display to make sure the HDMI input in the display itself is functioning correctly.
> 
> 
> Again 480p is the simplest signal, also try 1080i before trying 1080p.
> 
> --Bob



---------------------------------


I'm running firmware version 2.08 official release. I've hooked up my satellite receiver directly to my tv and I have no issues. I've also reset my AVM50V to factory default settings and still have same issues. I haven't tried setting my pre-amp to 480p yet, but will try tonight along with checked to see if the daughter board needs to be reset.


Thankyou very much Bob for your expertise.


----------



## scanido

Hello again,


I'm very close in deciding to finally get myself a used D2 versus a new AVM50v but one of my main concerns is the current support of the D2.


Is Anthem actively supporting the D2 in terms of firmware updates??


Lastly is warranty transferable if i obtain the original purchasors receipt?


Thanks guys!!


----------



## Dewboy3

Hi All,


I have been listening to my new setup. D2v I have the ARC set fairly close to perfect I think or at lest to my ears, speakers are M&K 150p LCR with a M&K 350 Sub. I have to say am not sure if I have heard a better sounding system to date. Great job Anthem with this product I highly recommend it to anyone looking to upgrade. The movies I have watched, all my BD disc. they are outstanding in Dolby HD or DTS MA. Is anyone making music in those formats yet? One stands out this the David Foster "Hit Man"

dynamic range is great fast the begin of "Feeling Good" - Michael Bublé

enough said I really like the the new D2v.


Dewboy3


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/18157796
> 
> 
> Is Anthem actively supporting the D2 in terms of firmware updates??



The last D2 update (1.33) was in June of 2008, I believe.


With the new processors all focus has been on getting the firmware solid. There have been rumors that some enhancements might be back-ported to the older formware, but I don't expect that until the dust settles on the D2v. And that seems to be taking forever.


If updated firmware is important to you, then get the AVM50v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/18157796
> 
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> 
> I'm very close in deciding to finally get myself a used D2 versus a new AVM50v but one of my main concerns is the current support of the D2.
> 
> 
> Is Anthem actively supporting the D2 in terms of firmware updates??
> 
> 
> Lastly is warranty transferable if i obtain the original purchasors receipt?
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!!



Anthem's warranty for North America is *NOT* transferable unless you buy the used unit from an authorized Anthem dealer. The warranty details can be found at the back of the Manual (downloadable from the Anthem site).


It is not expected that any new features will be added to the D2 firmware.


However the "official" V1.33 firmware seems to be in quite good shape except for a few HDMI issues (e.g., doesn't work with HDMI from AppleTV). Anthem has "test" firmware V1.47f where they back-ported some HDMI code improvements from the D2v to the D2. But this "test" firmware only works with certain production runs of the D2 hardware. It has been in "test" status since July of last year, so there doesn't seem to be any urgency to get it out on Anthem's part.


It would be best to assume that the V1.33 firmware is the final firmware release for this used D2. If newer firmware comes out you can then be pleasantly surprised.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dewboy3* /forum/post/18157920
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I have been listening to my new setup. D2v I have the ARC set fairly close to perfect I think or at lest to my ears, speakers are M&K 150p LCR with a M&K 350 Sub. I have to say am not sure if I have heard a better sounding system to date. Great job Anthem with this product I highly recommend it to anyone looking to upgrade. The movies I have watched, all my BD disc. they are outstanding in Dolby HD or DTS MA. Is anyone making music in those formats yet? One stands out this the David Foster "Hit Man"
> 
> dynamic range is great fast the begin of "Feeling Good" - Michael Bublé
> 
> enough said I really like the the new D2v.
> 
> 
> Dewboy3



I think I see a grinning-ball kick line in your future!







































There are several labels putting out high rate music on Blu-Ray discs. For example, in classical music the 2L label features discs with the same tracks in multiple formats for comparison:

http://www.amazon.com/Divertimenti-H...6473328&sr=1-3 


Acoustic Reality has re-mixed original 5.1 SACD content to 7.1 DTS-HD MA, for example:

http://www.amazon.com/Vivaldi-Concer...6473754&sr=1-6 


AIX Records is also getting into Blu-Ray discs now.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Dewboy3 - If you are into more mainstream rock checkout Tom Petty Live Anthology Exclusive Collectors Edition Blu-ray and Neil Young Archives, Vol. 1: 1963-1972 Blu-ray both packages are pricey but very well done if you are into T.P. or N.Y.


----------



## studlygoorite

Can someone tell me what ARC will do different with music compared to movies?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18163312
> 
> 
> Can someone tell me what ARC will do different with music compared to movies?



Nothing whatsoever.


The Movie and Music names in the two ARC configurations are purely for convenience. They could have named them Frank and George.


The only differences between Movie and Music are those you create on your own when you build the ARC setup -- e.g., by telling ARC to exclude some speakers from the Music configuration, etc.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18163381
> 
> 
> Nothing whatsoever.
> 
> 
> The Movie and Music names in the two ARC configurations are purely for convenience. They could have named them Frank and George.
> 
> 
> The only differences between Movie and Music are those you create on your own when you build the ARC setup -- e.g., by telling ARC to exclude some speakers from the Music configuration, etc.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, the only things I like to change are the cut off frequencies for my main speakers for music as ARC has them set at 60hz and at very loud volumes I don't want to push too much bass through them, so a change to 80hz I think should suffice. What would raising or lowering the room gain do for loud music?


----------



## broker156

Bob, I need help in reading arc charts. Yesterday you said my sub was at 28Hz. Where do you see this magical number?

Thanks for everything.

Attachment 167564 

 

arc 2-17-10 center sub.doc 84.5k . file


----------



## slots1

Bob

I would appreciate you looking at my charts from the D2. Thiel speakers 3.7 front and mcs1 cent. thiel power pts surrounds, and paridigm rear sur. submersive sub... Thanks so much in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18163653
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, the only things I like to change are the cut off frequencies for my main speakers for music as ARC has them set at 60hz and at very loud volumes I don't want to push too much bass through them, so a change to 80hz I think should suffice. What would raising or lowering the room gain do for loud music?



Room Gain is what gives you the perception that sounds are happening in a listening room as opposed to an anechoic chamber or outdoors. By preserving the inherent Room Gain in the room, sounds in a track that might actually occur naturally in your room sound like the sounds naturally occurring in your room. The loudness of the track is not really relevant to this.


Now movie mixers assume home listening rooms will have some modest Room Gain -- 2-4dB. So if your room is deader than that -- perhaps due to acoustic treatments -- you might want to force more Room Gain.


Music mixers, on the other hand, have nothing like a standardized approach to this. So some folks prefer a little less Room Gain for music listening -- perhaps 1-1.5dB less than what you use for Movie -- as kind of a compromise that works well across a range of music sound designs.


Candidly, I doubt most listeners will hear a difference that small.


--------------------------------------------


Fiddling with the cutoff values can be risky. For example, are you sure your Music sub is OK to handle the bass support for the mains when you raise the main crossover like that? You have to look to the charts to see what problems you might be generating.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *broker156* /forum/post/18163707
> 
> 
> Bob, I need help in reading arc charts. Yesterday you said my sub was at 28Hz. Where do you see this magical number?
> 
> Thanks for everything.
> 
> Attachment 167564



My approach is simple. First find the basic volume level of your ARC solution. That's the flat part of the Target curves for the main speakers, i.e., in the mid-range frequencies to the right of the crossover frequencies.


Next look at the low end roll off of the subwoofer and see where it crosses below that basic volume level. In your case that's around 28Hz. (Note the hump rising above that basic volume level to the right of that frequency is the sub's contribution to Room Gain.)


Now you might prefer to say your sub is good down to, say, the point which is 3dB below the basic volume level, or some other criteria, but I find my simple approach works well enough when comparing sub performance at the low end.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/18164887
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> I would appreciate you looking at my charts from the D2. Thiel speakers 3.7 front and mcs1 cent. thiel power pts surrounds, and paridigm rear sur. submersive sub... Thanks so much in advance.



First, the basic volume level of the solution (around 83dB) is above the 75dB typically recommended. Fix that by lowering Setup > Speaker Calibration > Noise Level in your D2 by about 7dB and re-Measure for ARC. ARC uses that setting to set the volume of its sweep tones and to adjust the level of the solution.


Check the sub volume trim that ARC Uploaded into your D2 and if it is not close to 0dB raise or lower the volume knob in your sub as well to compensate.


Your Rear Surrounds are dropping off a bit in treble. Check their pointing, particularly their vertical pointing if they are not mounted at seated ear level.


LF/RF and Sub are all seeing a pretty significant room null near 50Hz, but ARC seems to have that under control. In fact the amount of correction ARC has achieved for your sub is surprising to me.


Your only residual errors are in LF, and they are not that severe. They might respond well to some modest repositioning of LF.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Bob

I live in Chicago, but we have been down in Florida for the last month. It has been pretty cold, so had plenty of time to learn how to send you my charts from my laptop.

When I get home in a week, I will rerun the arc and lower the speaker levels. I have a 11 foot screen 2.35 and I am afraid my Thiel's are just at the edges. I have placed a large sound GIK absorber to left and right of each speaker.Also, on the ceilings. They only are about 6 inches away from the speaker. Thiel always recommends that they would like around 4 feet from all walls.

The rear surrounds are not expensive speakers and are mounted in the ceiling facing down at the second roll of seats. My regular power points are mounted on the walls.

Any suggestions would be helpful. The room has lots of stuff, pinball to the left of the LF speaker and equipment and dvd shelves to the right of RF. Two rolls of four seats each and other things in the room. Room is 18 X 18

Thanks Bob

Gerry

Great if I just had an audio setup. I do not know how to get around this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

slots1,

Be of good cheer. Given the amount of correction ARC is being asked to do, the results are actually quite good. Even if you did nothing else, your current ARC solution should sound fine!


So you are into tweaking now and you need to consider the possible benefits vs. the work needed to make a change. If you have no choice on your front speaker placements for example, then the practical answer is to go with the correction ARC has already provided. But at the bass frequencies in particular, even inches can make a difference.


So take things one step at a time. Get the volume level adjusted first. That's easy. Then consider what can be done for LF/RF. Rotating them in place a bit may change the way they are coupling to the room for example. Or raising them up on foot spikes.


Some ceiling mounted rear speakers can be tilted in their mounts, but if yours can't, the treble error is not that bad.


And you've really lucked out that ARC is able to correct your sub so well given the size of its dip. So that's one problem you don't have to deal with.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/18164887
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> I would appreciate you looking at my charts from the D2. Thiel speakers 3.7 front and mcs1 cent. thiel power pts surrounds, and paridigm rear sur. submersive sub... Thanks so much in advance.



I'd be curious to hear your opinions between your current settings of Max Freq (20k/16k) and something lower, like 8 kHz. I just don't trust that Theil speakers would have such a notch at 12 kHz. Care to give it a try?


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/18167726
> 
> 
> I'd be curious to hear your opinions between your current settings of Max Freq (20k/16k) and something lower, like 8 kHz. I just don't trust that Theil speakers would have such a notch at 12 kHz. Care to give it a try?



I have a very similar notch at 10k with my infinity Prelude mts speakers... F, L, SR and SL and center. All identical.


Is it me or does it seem that a lot of people who post graphs here have a similar notch right around this area? It happens enough with so many different folks that it makes you wonder if there is not something else in play here?


-B


----------



## davoe

My notch is at 15k. I have Focal Electra 1038 Be's. I know they don't have such a dramatic roll off. I'm fairly certain it is the directionality of the mic above 5k. I have since stopped using frequencies above 5k for correction. I inspected many polar plots of omnidirectional microphones online and they start having huge measurement errors after 5kHz. You can not trust the measured or corrected curves after 5k. See for yourself.


----------



## gdc

I have a notch in all my B&W speakers except the sub







at 13 kHz.


So why do some people NOT have notches?


----------



## davoe

Microphone error. What you're see is not reality.


----------



## jayray

I have no notches at specific freq. with any of my Paradigm Studio 100s or centre CC690. Perhaps we need more cases of the alleged mic problem before we declare this universal. My understanding is that each mic is calibrated in a minature anachoic chamber using a studio speaker from 5kHz to 23kHz. Seems odd that with that amount of quality control the mics would all have a major flaw at the 5 kHz range IMHO.

John


----------



## jmcomp124

Do any of the Anthem products offer front wide channels?

Thanks,

-Jai


----------



## davoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18170460
> 
> 
> I have no notches at specific freq. with any of my Paradigm Studio 100s or centre CC690. Perhaps we need more cases of the alleged mic problem before we declare this universal. My understanding is that each mic is calibrated in a minature anachoic chamber using a studio speaker from 5kHz to 23kHz. Seems odd that with that amount of quality control the mics would all have a major flaw at the 5 kHz range IMHO.
> 
> John



The mics may be calibrated and all alike, but they become quite directional at higher frequencies. They stop acting like an omnidirectional mic.


----------



## davoe

Here is a typical polar plot of an omnidirectional microphone. Zero degrees is on axis, when we point our mics straight up we are measuring at 90 degrees. You can see at 20kHz, there is a 15dB falloff from 5kHz. So what you think is a nice curve up to 20kHz, may be something quite different and hidden from view.




Attachment 167674


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18170549
> 
> 
> Here is a typical polar plot of an omnidirectional microphone. Zero degrees is on axis, when we point our mics straight up we are measuring at 90 degrees. You can see at 20kHz, there is a 15dB falloff from 5kHz. So what you think is a nice curve up to 20kHz, may be something quite different and hidden from view.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attachment 167674



I'd be interested in Nick's take on this. Perhaps you should let him know.

John


----------



## davoe

I've exchanged emails with Nick and others at Anthem tech support. None of them recommend extending the correction frequency beyond 5kHz. Of course, in the end it's critical listening that will tell you what you want. But I, for one, think the most accurate measurements and corrections occur at the 5k limit.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18170549
> 
> 
> Here is a typical polar plot of an omnidirectional microphone. Zero degrees is on axis, when we point our mics straight up we are measuring at 90 degrees. You can see at 20kHz, there is a 15dB falloff from 5kHz. So what you think is a nice curve up to 20kHz, may be something quite different and hidden from view.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attachment 167674



And yet most people posting charts here don't see a 15dB dropoff between 5Khz and 20Khz. Nor would this type of polar response explain the quick dip that has some folks worried.


We don't have enough details about how Anthem produces the individual calibration data files for each mic. For example, if they are produced using speakers near polar 90 degrees, then the high frequency calibration might already correct for the polar response of each individually calibrated mic.


But even then, if the polar response were being handled this simply you would expect folks with ceiling mounted surrounds to ALL have those overshooting at high frequency. In reality ceiling mounted surrounds tend to show weak treble results despite their high polar angle.


It remains the case that we have inconsistent results, with many but not all folks getting very pleasing results when ARC is set to correct all the way up.

--Bob


----------



## davoe

Do you mean pleasing to the eye or pleasing to the ear?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Pleasing to the ear of course.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18171372
> 
> 
> Pleasing to the ear of course.
> 
> --Bob



A lot of people like some HF peaking. It was common in phono playback systems. Then CD came along...


----------



## CharlieU

After a lot of experimentation with speaker positioning and pointing, I've determined that the dip at 15KHz is caused by the ARC process. The folks at Anthem have a sense of humor and have programmed this into the software to irritate the people that are extremely anal.







The solution is to put away the microphone and computer, sit back and enjoy.


----------



## jclem

My Panny BD80 is about 9 months old and it's been working just great until yesterday. I popped in a BR and got a loud "static-y" noise. It is hooked up to my Anthem D2v via Hdmi. I put in 2 other disks and same thing. When I hit the Anthem volume button, the on screen info flickers back and forth, showing that it's getting different inputs. I checked the FW and it's upto date, I checked other inputs and they are fine. I unplugged and replugged in the hdmi cable and no change. The video plays fine.

Any ideas? Does this sound like a Panny issue, like a bad lens, or an Anthem issue? I'm guessing Panny, but I'm posting here, too, just in case somebody here has run into a problem like this with their Dvd player. Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18170700
> 
> 
> I've exchanged emails with Nick and others at Anthem tech support. None of them recommend extending the correction frequency beyond 5kHz. Of course, in the end it's critical listening that will tell you what you want. But I, for one, think the most accurate measurements and corrections occur at the 5k limit.



I have done many measurements, and I mean MANY. I have tested from 20kHz

to 5kHz and quite frankly it is only the charts which guide me to the best solution. Having said that, I have great difficulty telling the difference. Moving speakers, I hear the diff, but moving the EQ freq makes it hard for me to tell.So if it is the mic, and we don't worry about the charts, why can't I hear any diff? No comments about my auditory acuity please.









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I also think it is important to distinguish cases where raising Max EQ Frequency causes a reduction in quality of THE REST of the solution due to diversion of ARC resources from the lower frequencies when ARC is also being asked to do a ton of correction in the lower frequencies.


This shows up in the charts as increased wobbles in the green Calculated curves -- additional residual errors -- in the lower frequencies that go away when you back off Max EQ Frequency.


Whatever is going on with treble Measurement, it seems to me that the vast majority of people here who have found a preference for lower Max EQ Frequency have charts that look better in the LOWER frequencies when Max EQ Frequency is backed off. That could mean ARC is not doing as good a job in the high frequency correction when it is resource constrained due to low frequency issues, or it could mean that what folks are actually hearing is problems appearing in the bass and mid-range due to those same resource constraints.


Or to put it another way, if your speakers Measure as not needing a lot of correction in bass and mid-range, the odds appear better that you can raise Max EQ Frequency and get a pleasing result. This is important because speaker re-positioning/re-pointing and room acoustic treatments are most effective in improving how your speakers Measure in bass and mid-range. I.e., you can DO things to reduce how much correction ARC has to do in your bass and mid-range.


--------------------------------------------


We've also seen quite a few cases here where folks have improved their high frequency Measurements by correcting the pointing of their speakers. In THOSE cases that would imply their original treble Measurement problems were not due to the mic. But even if there ARE mic issues, the first line of attack against treble weakness should be looking to the pointing of the speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18171785
> 
> 
> My Panny BD80 is about 9 months old and it's been working just great until yesterday. I popped in a BR and got a loud "static-y" noise. It is hooked up to my Anthem D2v via Hdmi. I put in 2 other disks and same thing. When I hit the Anthem volume button, the on screen info flickers back and forth, showing that it's getting different inputs. I checked the FW and it's upto date, I checked other inputs and they are fine. I unplugged and replugged in the hdmi cable and no change. The video plays fine.
> 
> Any ideas? Does this sound like a Panny issue, like a bad lens, or an Anthem issue? I'm guessing Panny, but I'm posting here, too, just in case somebody here has run into a problem like this with their Dvd player. Thanks



Temporarily hook up a different audio connection from the player -- e.g., Optical Digital using Bitstream output. If the problem is that the player is having trouble reading the disc then the audio will be bad on all of its audio outputs.


If the problem is limited to HDMI audio then the best next steps would be to try a different player into that same D2v input and taking your Panasonic player and trying it with a different receiver (e.g., at a friend's house or at a dealer) to see if you can confirm it is the player that has the problem.


While you have the HDMI cable unplugged, take a flashlight and carefully check the plugs and sockets at each end for any signs of pin damage. Discard a damaged cable.


Try using a different HDMI input on the D2v -- e.g., 5-8 instead of 1-4. If a different input works then either the HDMI 1 socket is damaged or the HDMI chip that handles it is damaged. Call Anthem for service.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

Hey Bob,

Thanks for your quick reply. VERY strange. I printed out your instructions and went to try them out. However, I first decided to run it again to make sure it was still acting up. I put in several (5, some BR some regular)discs (just like I did when I had the problem) and this time everything was fine!!????


Don't know what it was but I will keep your suggestions in case it crops up again.


Thanks Again


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18172670
> 
> 
> Hey Bob,
> 
> Thanks for your quick reply. VERY strange. I printed out your instructions and went to try them out. However, I first decided to run it again to make sure it was still acting up. I put in several (5, some BR some regular)discs (just like I did when I had the problem) and this time everything was fine!!????
> 
> 
> Don't know what it was but I will keep your suggestions in case it crops up again.
> 
> 
> Thanks Again



is your source to view a tv or projector? I found that sometimes IF i dont turn on the projector first I have some strange issues with hdmi on rare occassions with sources. I have found if I turn my projector on first then the d2v this problems have been minimized.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18170549
> 
> 
> Here is a typical polar plot of an omnidirectional microphone. Zero degrees is on axis, when we point our mics straight up we are measuring at 90 degrees. You can see at 20kHz, there is a 15dB falloff from 5kHz. So what you think is a nice curve up to 20kHz, may be something quite different and hidden from view.



This illustrates a high frequency roll-off, *NOT* the steep and narrow notch that some are describing.


For instance, my speakers measure at reference (0) at 12 kHz, -8dB at 13 kHz, and back at 0 by 15 kHz. That is impossible with the gradual off-axis roll-off shown in the polar plot you attached.


I still think it's significant that many people show NO notch, and some people show an obvious notch in all speakers. Omni off-axis response doesn't explain it, so what does?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18172243
> 
> 
> I also think it is important to distinguish cases where raising Max EQ Frequency causes a reduction in quality of THE REST of the solution due to diversion of ARC resources from the lower frequencies when ARC is also being asked to do a ton of correction in the lower frequencies.
> 
> 
> This shows up in the charts as increased wobbles in the green Calculated curves -- additional residual errors -- in the lower frequencies that go away when you back off Max EQ Frequency.
> 
> 
> Whatever is going on with treble Measurement, it seems to me that the vast majority of people here who have found a preference for lower Max EQ Frequency have charts that look better in the LOWER frequencies when Max EQ Frequency is backed off. That could mean ARC is not doing as good a job in the high frequency correction when it is resource constrained due to low frequency issues, or it could mean that what folks are actually hearing is problems appearing in the bass and mid-range due to those same resource constraints.
> 
> 
> Or to put it another way, if your speakers Measure as not needing a lot of correction in bass and mid-range, the odds appear better that you can raise Max EQ Frequency and get a pleasing result. This is important because speaker re-positioning/re-pointing and room acoustic treatments are most effective in improving how your speakers Measure in bass and mid-range. I.e., you can DO things to reduce how much correction ARC has to do in your bass and mid-range.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> We've also seen quite a few cases here where folks have improved their high frequency Measurements by correcting the pointing of their speakers. In THOSE cases that would imply their original treble Measurement problems were not due to the mic. But even if there ARE mic issues, the first line of attack against treble weakness should be looking to the pointing of the speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the explanation Bob.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/18173330
> 
> 
> This illustrates a high frequency roll-off, *NOT* the steep and narrow notch that some are describing.
> 
> 
> For instance, my speakers measure at reference (0) at 12 kHz, -8dB at 13 kHz, and back at 0 by 15 kHz. That is impossible with the gradual off-axis roll-off shown in the polar plot you attached.
> 
> 
> I still think it's significant that many people show NO notch, and some people show an obvious notch in all speakers. Omni off-axis response doesn't explain it, so what does?



You can imagine ways in which Anthem's correction for polar mic response might induce a notch like this. For example if they are boosting the highest frequency data to compensate but the roll-off is actually starting lower on a given mic so that the earlier part of the roll-off is not fully corrected.


But the bottom line is that we don't have enough info on how they are calibrating the high end of the mic's response. If they really are doing it mic by mic as we believe (i.e., the individual calibration data file that ships with each mic), such differences between mics should be accounted for automatically.


And we're still left with the problem that we don't see dramatic upward slopes in the treble when people are measuring ceiling mounted speakers that are more directly above the mic.


Newer readers may not remember that the first ARC software had a significant problem under-measuring treble which was fixed in an ARC software update. So it is clear that Anthem has taken a close look at how best to measure treble. All of the "good" results from folks who raised Max EQ Frequency date from after that fix.

--Bob


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/18172800
> 
> 
> is your source to view a tv or projector? I found that sometimes IF i dont turn on the projector first I have some strange issues with hdmi on rare occassions with sources. I have found if I turn my projector on first then the d2v this problems have been minimized.



It is a projector, but I've had it about 5 months, so it's odd that it would pop up now. However, I may just do that anyway since the pj is the slowest piece of equipment in the chain. Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18173429
> 
> 
> You can imagine ways in which Anthem's correction for polar mic response might induce a notch like this. For example if they are boosting the highest frequency data to compensate but the roll-off is actually starting lower on a given mic so that the earlier part of the roll-off is not fully corrected.
> 
> 
> But the bottom line is that we don't have enough info on how they are calibrating the high end of the mic's response. If they really are doing it mic by mic as we believe (i.e., the individual calibration data file that ships with each mic), such differences between mics should be accounted for automatically.
> 
> 
> And we're still left with the problem that we don't see dramatic upward slopes in the treble when people are measuring ceiling mounted speakers that are more directly above the mic.
> 
> 
> Newer readers may not remember that the first ARC software had a significant problem under-measuring treble which was fixed in an ARC software update. So it is clear that Anthem has taken a close look at how best to measure treble. All of the "good" results from folks who raised Max EQ Frequency date from after that fix.
> 
> --Bob



In talking to Nick, he said all mics are individually calibrated and the mic cal files are specific to each mic shipped with our ARC cd. ARC then sees this calibration file and compensates for small diff in them when doing its correction calculations.

John


----------



## KX250F

I was a original D2 owner and moved over to the Denon AVP to have HDMI 1.3. I have been considering switching back to a Anthem D2v but was wondering if Anthem has a D3 in the pipeline.


Do you guys think Anthem will come out with something completely new or essentially keep the same machine with updated boards?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We've had no hint of a new high end product in development. My guess would be that the earliest we might see such a product would be next year.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

Wait, there has been a hint.... and that would be the conversations with tech support and some customers here - suggesting that the customer just hold out from upgrading to the D2v from the D2 - just wait for the D3...


Now as Bob has stated, its likely that any new product won't reveal itself until next year. Your first hope for news of something of this nature will probably be at Cedia in the fall....


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I think you are reading too much into those reports. The reports were that a few customers were advised that GIVEN THE REST OF THEIR EQUIPMENT they would not see enough gain to justify paying for the upgrade from the D2 to the D2v so they should probably just hold off until whatever comes next eventually shows up.


In at least one such case I think the advice given the customer was too conservative. I have a 768p display and a 5.1 speaker setup for example and I've certainly noticed improvements in both video and audio with the D2v over my prior D2. But that aside, I don't believe there was anything in the reported advice hinting another product was due anytime soon.


NOTE: The rumors of a possible D3 in development that circulated around the time of CEDIA last September were completely mistaken.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18174255
> 
> 
> In talking to Nick, he said all mics are individually calibrated and the mic cal files are specific to each mic shipped with our ARC cd. ARC then sees this calibration file and compensates for small diff in them when doing its correction calculations.
> 
> John



I sent a question to Nick before the holidays asking for details on how they calibrated the high frequency end for the mics but I didn't get a response. Sometimes things are just too busy when I bug him, and sometimes he has to get answers from the engineers that may or may not be easy to get.


As it stands, I can't be positive the individual calibration files for the mics even include calibration data for the highest frequencies. I think they do, but I can't be sure, given some of the chart anomalies we've been discussing.


I.e., it is just possible they've applied a single correction up there that's supposed to work across all their mics.

--Bob


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18175171
> 
> 
> I sent a question to Nick before the holidays asking for details on how they calibrated the high frequency end for the mics but I didn't get a response. Sometimes things are just too busy when I bug him, and sometimes he has to get answers from the engineers that may or may not be easy to get.
> 
> 
> As it stands, I can't be positive the individual calibration files for the mics even include calibration data for the highest frequencies. I think they do, but I can't be sure, given some of the chart anomalies we've been discussing.
> 
> 
> I.e., it is just possible they've applied a single correction up there that's supposed to work across all their mics.
> 
> --Bob



The only way to tell is if someone without the notch swaps their cal file and mic with someone with the notch. Considering that the manual states that measurements above 5KHz may not be accurate and with a Max EQ of 5KHz, you have taken care of the major factors that destroy good sound, it may be best to ignore the right half of the graph. Play with toe-in and tilt to get the upper freqs to your liking, rerun ARC and enjoy.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU* /forum/post/18176673
> 
> 
> The only way to tell is if someone without the notch swaps their cal file and mic with someone with the notch. Considering that the manual states that measurements above 5KHz may not be accurate and with a Max EQ of 5KHz, you have taken care of the major factors that destroy good sound, it may be best to ignore the right half of the graph. Play with toe-in and tilt to get the upper freqs to your liking, rerun ARC and enjoy.



Such a swap is actually doable now as the most recent ARC software no longer restricts you to using the mic and calibration file that match the serial number of your Anthem processor. If more than one calibration file is present you have to tell ARC which mic you are actually using, or at least that's the way it has been written up. I don't believe we've had any reports here yet from anyone who's tried this to see if it works.


NOTE: One way to screw up your ARC results is to use a mic that doesn't match the calibration file you have installed. The ARC software can detect whether the mic on the USB connection is an ARC mic or not, but it can not tell whether it is the CORRECT ARC mic.

--Bob


----------



## KX250F




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18174548
> 
> 
> We've had no hint of a new high end product in development. My guess would be that the earliest we might see such a product would be next year.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/18175034
> 
> 
> Wait, there has been a hint.... and that would be the conversations with tech support and some customers here - suggesting that the customer just hold out from upgrading to the D2v from the D2 - just wait for the D3...
> 
> 
> Now as Bob has stated, its likely that any new product won't reveal itself until next year. Your first hope for news of something of this nature will probably be at Cedia in the fall....



Thanks for the input guys.


If and when Anthem does release something new do you think it will be something completely new or do you think it will be the D2v upgraded.


The reason I'm pressing the question is quite simple and probably obvious. If I was to get a D2v tomorrow and at Cedia 2010 Anthem releases a new product that the D2v cannot be upgraded to then I'm not going to be to happy with the decision I made. It's not Anthem's fault, but mine for not waiting.


I realize we are in a hobby that is always changing and if you keep waiting for the next new thing or upgrade then you will always be waiting. I assume no one really knows what Anthem is planning and if they did they probably can't talk about it. I just want to no if the current D2v will be upgraded or if you think it will be a completely new platform.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KX250F* /forum/post/18177113
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input guys.
> 
> 
> If and when Anthem does release something new do you think it will be something completely new or do you think it will be the D2v upgraded.
> 
> 
> The reason I'm pressing the question is quite simple and probably obvious. If I was to get a D2v tomorrow and at Cedia 2010 Anthem releases a new product that the D2v cannot be upgraded to then I'm not going to be to happy with the decision I made. It's not Anthem's fault, but mine for not waiting.
> 
> 
> I realize we are in a hobby that is always changing and if you keep waiting for the next new thing or upgrade then you will always be waiting. I assume no one really knows what Anthem is planning and if they did they probably can't talk about it. I just want to no if the current D2v will be upgraded or if you think it will be a completely new platform.



There's no basis for making this guess. Most folks expected the next step after the D2 would be a new platform (not upgradeable), when in fact we got the D2v which Anthem could have offered as an upgrade. But then Anthem decided to offer a trade-in instead of an upgrade -- i.e., you swapped your D2 for an entirely new D2v as opposed to changing out just the necessary parts in your D2.


Whatever Anthem offers next, and whenever that happens, odds are they will offer a trade-in program or an upgrade. But don't expect it to be cheap. The parts that are likely to change are the most expensive parts in the processor -- the video board and the DSP (audio processing) board.


A product introduced at CEDIA, if that happens, is highly unlikely to ship at that time. I.e., it will be shown before it is ready to ship. We could possibly see a product that ships a year from now, but my guess is that the END of next year is more likely.


And when it does ship, most buyers will want to wait until the early bugs are found and squashed -- more delay. So how long are you willing to wait?

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

+1 my thoughts exactly, The D2v right now is a great and stable Pre-Amp... It has taken a Year to just get Dolby Volume out since release, and that seemingly still needs some work. Almost anthing that Anthem or Paradigm shows at Cedia doesn't show up until after the beginning of the next year as a general rule of thumb.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We had at least one other poster here who reported a Dolby Volume failure in "test" firmware V2.08e with the characteristic that audio was lost with Dolby Volume set to either Movie or Music but audio still worked if you switched to Dolby Volume OFF, and that changing sources to something else and back did not cure this. A power cycle was necessary to cure this.


As I posted awhile back, I had a case of the same failure. I've not been able to reproduce the failure since then.


If you have a repeatable case of this, please email the details to Anthem tech support as they are having trouble reproducing the failure.

--Bob


----------



## KX250F




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18177139
> 
> 
> There's no basis for making this guess. Most folks expected the next step after the D2 would be a new platform (not upgradeable), when in fact we got the D2v which Anthem could have offered as an upgrade. But then Anthem decided to offer a trade-in instead of an upgrade -- i.e., you swapped your D2 for an entirely new D2v as opposed to changing out just the necessary parts in your D2.
> 
> 
> Whatever Anthem offers next, and whenever that happens, odds are they will offer a trade-in program or an upgrade. But don't expect it to be cheap. The parts that are likely to change are the most expensive parts in the processor -- the video board and the DSP (audio processing) board.
> 
> 
> A product introduced at CEDIA, if that happens, is highly unlikely to ship at that time. I.e., it will be shown before it is ready to ship. We could possibly see a product that ships a year from now, but my guess is that the END of next year is more likely.
> 
> 
> And when it does ship, most buyers will want to wait until the early bugs are found and squashed -- more delay. So how long are you willing to wait?
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/18177360
> 
> 
> +1 my thoughts exactly, The D2v right now is a great and stable Pre-Amp... It has taken a Year to just get Dolby Volume out since release, and that seemingly still needs some work. Almost anthing that Anthem or Paradigm shows at Cedia doesn't show up until after the beginning of the next year as a general rule of thumb.




Thanks again guys.


I'm thinking that I may have to give the D2v a try. I had it narrowed down to the D2v and the Classe SSP-800. I like the thought of the ARC on the Anthem and want to really learn this side of the processor.


Now I just need to get rid of the Denon AVP-A1HDCI.


----------



## ninja12

I had some time on my hands this week, so, I decided to do some playing around. As you can see from the title, I have the D2 v1.33, ARC 2.4, and 2 DD18s. I was fortunate enough to come across a MIC Kit 5 for the Velodyne subs for dirt cheap. So, I decided to jump on it. With the MIC Kit 5, I can take measurements, for my subs, from 5 different locations at the same time and see the results of all 5 locations at the same time. I took measurements of 5 listening positions using the Mic Kit 5. I was able to dial my subs in to be within 2db from 20hz to 120hz. Of course, I had a big smile







on my face when I did that. So, my next step was to leave the EQ engaged on the sub and run ARC. Man, was I highly disappointed







. The result ARC gave me look AWFUL. Now, I'm confused. Why would I get such a good reading from the Velodyne Mic Kit, and get such an awful reading from ARC? According to the Mic Kit 5, my work, for the subs, are done; but, according to ARC, I have a lot of work ahead of me to do. I wish I could tell ARC that I have a sub; but, don't EQ the sub. I also thought about running the sub EQs after ARC; but, that will screw up what ARC came up with. Anyway, I'm kind of confused about what to really do here. So, I'm throwing this out to see what some of you may do if you were in my situation. I did run ARC without the EQ turned on for my subs, and it looked ok. My manual EQ looks better than what ARC is giving. So, what would you do if you were me?


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18149789
> 
> 
> When you feel this LFE now, does it feel like the HOLY GRAIL?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Compared to the work I used to do in the past with test tone CD's, setting parametric EQ curves with a Behringer Feedback Destroyer, and doing it ALL over again and again multiple times until I was satisfied.... YES!!! ARC is close to a "godsend" for me.










(sorry for the slow reply, I've been traveling)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18178647
> 
> 
> I had some time on my hands this week, so, I decided to do some playing around. As you can see from the title, I have the D2 v1.33, ARC 2.4, and 2 DD18s. I was fortunate enough to come across a MIC Kit 5 for the Velodyne subs for dirt cheap. So, I decided to jump on it. With the MIC Kit 5, I can take measurements, for my subs, from 5 different locations at the same time and see the results of all 5 locations at the same time. I took measurements of 5 listening positions using the Mic Kit 5. I was able to dial my subs in to be within 2db from 20hz to 120hz. Of course, I had a big smile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on my face when I did that. So, my next step was to leave the EQ engaged on the sub and run ARC. Man, was I highly disappointed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The result ARC gave me look AWFUL. Now, I'm confused. Why would I get such a good reading from the Velodyne Mic Kit, and get such an awful reading from ARC? According to the Mic Kit 5, my work, for the subs, are done; but, according to ARC, I have a lot of work ahead of me to do. I wish I could tell ARC that I have a sub; but, don't EQ the sub. I also thought about running the sub EQs after ARC; but, that will screw up what ARC came up with. Anyway, I'm kind of confused about what to really do here. So, I'm throwing this out to see what some of you may do if you were in my situation. I did run ARC without the EQ turned on for my subs, and it looked ok. My manual EQ looks better than what ARC is giving. So, what would you do if you were me?



The most likely explanation is that you didn't do the Velodyne EQ setup correctly. For example, did you remember to turn off your prior ARC setup before running the Velodyne stuff? And were you using Stereo audio mode? And with what crossovers, settings for things like THX Ultra 2 sub, Room Resonance Filter, etc? How about adjusting Polarity and Phase between the 2 subs? ARC hears them playing together so it hears phase problems.


There are a lot of ways to screw this up.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18178647
> 
> 
> I had some time on my hands this week, so, I decided to do some playing around. As you can see from the title, I have the D2 v1.33, ARC 2.4, and 2 DD18s. I was fortunate enough to come across a MIC Kit 5 for the Velodyne subs for dirt cheap. So, I decided to jump on it. With the MIC Kit 5, I can take measurements, for my subs, from 5 different locations at the same time and see the results of all 5 locations at the same time. I took measurements of 5 listening positions using the Mic Kit 5. I was able to dial my subs in to be within 2db from 20hz to 120hz. Of course, I had a big smile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on my face when I did that. So, my next step was to leave the EQ engaged on the sub and run ARC. Man, was I highly disappointed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The result ARC gave me look AWFUL. Now, I'm confused. Why would I get such a good reading from the Velodyne Mic Kit, and get such an awful reading from ARC? According to the Mic Kit 5, my work, for the subs, are done; but, according to ARC, I have a lot of work ahead of me to do. I wish I could tell ARC that I have a sub; but, don't EQ the sub. I also thought about running the sub EQs after ARC; but, that will screw up what ARC came up with. Anyway, I'm kind of confused about what to really do here. So, I'm throwing this out to see what some of you may do if you were in my situation. I did run ARC without the EQ turned on for my subs, and it looked ok. My manual EQ looks better than what ARC is giving. So, what would you do if you were me?



Are you used the same 5 mic positions for ARC as the DD18? That's one issue. But even if you are, the averaging method or weightings may not be the same, so the results will be different.


After allowing each EQ to "do its thing," does one sound better than the other?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/18178734
> 
> 
> Compared to the work I used to do in the past with test tone CD's, setting parametric EQ curves with a Behringer Feedback Destroyer, and doing it ALL over again and again multiple times until I was satisfied.... YES!!! ARC is close to a "godsend" for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (sorry for the slow reply, I've been traveling)



Glad it's working well for you. BTW, we all have other things to do other than be on this thread 24 hrs.









John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18178837
> 
> 
> The most likely explanation is that you didn't do the Velodyne EQ setup correctly. For example, did you remember to turn off your prior ARC setup before running the Velodyne stuff? And were you using Stereo audio mode? And with what crossovers, settings for things like THX Ultra 2 sub, Room Resonance Filter, etc? How about adjusting Polarity and Phase between the 2 subs? ARC hears them playing together so it hears phase problems.
> 
> 
> There are a lot of ways to screw this up.
> 
> --Bob



No, I did turn prior ARC setup; but, I did adjust the Phase and Polarity. Since I didn't turn off ARC, I didn't bother to check the other settings like crossover. I will redo this over again and make sure I take note of all of the settings. Yes, there are a lot of ways to screw this up and leave it up to me and I will do just that. Anyway, I will try this again and see how it turns out this time.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/18178868
> 
> 
> Are you used the same 5 mic positions for ARC as the DD18? That's one issue. But even if you are, the averaging method or weightings may not be the same, so the results will be different.
> 
> 
> After allowing each EQ to "do its thing," does one sound better than the other?



Yes, I used the same 5 mic positions. Actually, I tossed the settings with the manual EQ that I did because the results just were not worth loading.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18178647
> 
> 
> I had some time on my hands this week, so, I decided to do some playing around. As you can see from the title, I have the D2 v1.33, ARC 2.4, and 2 DD18s. I was fortunate enough to come across a MIC Kit 5 for the Velodyne subs for dirt cheap. So, I decided to jump on it. With the MIC Kit 5, I can take measurements, for my subs, from 5 different locations at the same time and see the results of all 5 locations at the same time. I took measurements of 5 listening positions using the Mic Kit 5. I was able to dial my subs in to be within 2db from 20hz to 120hz. Of course, I had a big smile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on my face when I did that. So, my next step was to leave the EQ engaged on the sub and run ARC. Man, was I highly disappointed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The result ARC gave me look AWFUL. Now, I'm confused. Why would I get such a good reading from the Velodyne Mic Kit, and get such an awful reading from ARC? According to the Mic Kit 5, my work, for the subs, are done; but, according to ARC, I have a lot of work ahead of me to do. I wish I could tell ARC that I have a sub; but, don't EQ the sub. I also thought about running the sub EQs after ARC; but, that will screw up what ARC came up with. Anyway, I'm kind of confused about what to really do here. So, I'm throwing this out to see what some of you may do if you were in my situation. I did run ARC without the EQ turned on for my subs, and it looked ok. My manual EQ looks better than what ARC is giving. So, what would you do if you were me?



I have a pro grade microphone multiplexer with gain/cut control for each mic. I match the SPL of each mic relative to the first mic to .1 dB before making any calibration with my 34 band parametric EQ(for my pro setups). I just use the graph derived from my ARC run and just zoom in on the sub graph to get a better look at what frequency should be adjusted. I then make another ARC run and ARC red curve is much better than before.


I am not sure if the MIC 5 kit take into account the SPL of its mic, this might skew the average frequency response of your sub. Just look at your ARC graph and use your EQ to dial in your sub.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18179538
> 
> 
> I have a pro grade microphone multiplexer with gain/cut control for each mic. I match the SPL of each mic relative to the first mic to .1 dB before making any calibration with my 34 band parametric EQ(for my pro setups). I just use the graph derived from my ARC run and just zoom in on the sub graph to get a better look at what frequency should be adjusted. I then make another ARC run and ARC red curve is much better than before.
> 
> 
> I am not sure if the MIC 5 kit take into account the SPL of its mic, this might skew the average frequency response of your sub. Just look at your ARC graph and use your EQ to dial in your sub.



Thanks for the suggestion abc999. I will try that out too. I think that's a very good idea. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18179506
> 
> 
> No, I did[n't] turn prior ARC setup; but, I did adjust the Phase and Polarity. Since I didn't turn off ARC, I didn't bother to check the other settings like crossover.



OK, that's probably what is going on


You did the EQ of each sub individually, but with the prior ARC solution still in effect. The prior ARC solution is built around the output of both subs. So that gave you bogus results for the EQ of each individual sub.


Then you did the ARC run, using those two, bogus sub EQs. But ARC discards the prior ARC solution before doing the Measurements. So not only was ARC hearing bogus results for the individual sub EQs but it was also hearing how those EQs were built upon ARC corrections that were no longer in effect.


------------------------------------


Instead what you need to do is turn off ARC and then do an EQ for each sub with the other Anthem processing also turned off (e.g., Room Resonance Filter, which turns on when ARC is turned off). Use Stereo audio mode for the Velodyne audio input so that you are not hearing any audio steered to surround speakers or the Center speaker.


You need to make sure the crossover built into each sub is disabled (select the crossover value in the upper left of the table and then press Reset on the DD remote so that all those values become N/A). You need to make sure the subsonic filter is also disabled in the subs. Meanwhile in the Anthem, set THX Ultra 2 Sub (which lets the lowest subsonic frequencies go out to the sub), but turn Boundary Gain Compensation OFF.


It's a bit tricky deciding what crossover value to use in the Anthem when setting up the separate sub EQs (the crossover in each sub should remain disabled). If you already know what ARC is going to Target for LF/RF crossover then that's probably a good one to use. Set it for both LF/RF and for Sub (in the Anthem) when doing each of the Velodyne EQs. Part of the problem here is that if ARC picks different values then your meticulously setup individual Velodyne Sub EQ may no longer be ideal for that adjusted crossover, but such is life.


AFTER you have the separate EQ set up for each sub, then do the Polarity/Phase adjustment between the two subs and between each sub and the LF speaker. Prior to this you also need to have the speaker distance settings in place (if the subs are not equidistant from ARC mic position #1 split the difference and use that), and of course when doing Phase tests it helps if the subs/speakers are already pretty close in volume balance.


Finally, do your ARC run. ARC will disable Room Resonance Filter and THX Ultra 2 Sub (and Boundary Gain Compensation and Center EQ), and will build a full solution based on what it hears from your Velodyne Sub EQs playing in combo.


======================


ETA: Another problem with the Velodyne EQs is that, unless they've changed something recently, they don't attempt to detect/preserve Room Gain. That is, the Velodyne stuff is geared towards making a "flat" response -- e.g., a dead room -- whereas ARC is attempting to preserve the inherent Room Gain hump of the room.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18180179
> 
> 
> OK, that's probably what is going on
> 
> 
> You did the EQ of each sub individually, but with the prior ARC solution still in effect. The prior ARC solution is built around the output of both subs. So that gave you bogus results for the EQ of each individual sub.
> 
> 
> Then you did the ARC run, using those two, bogus sub EQs. But ARC discards the prior ARC solution before doing the Measurements. So not only was ARC hearing bogus results for the individual sub EQs but it was also hearing how those EQs were built upon ARC corrections that were no longer in effect.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Instead what you need to do is turn off ARC and then do an EQ for each sub with the other Anthem processing also turned off (e.g., Room Resonance Filter, which turns on when ARC is turned off). Use Stereo audio mode for the Velodyne audio input so that you are not hearing any audio steered to surround speakers or the Center speaker.
> 
> 
> You need to make sure the crossover built into each sub is disabled (select the crossover value in the upper left of the table and then press Reset on the DD remote so that all those values become N/A). You need to make sure the subsonic filter is also disabled in the subs. Meanwhile in the Anthem, set THX Ultra 2 Sub (which lets the lowest subsonic frequencies go out to the sub), but turn Boundary Gain Compensation OFF.
> 
> 
> It's a bit tricky deciding what crossover value to use in the Anthem when setting up the separate sub EQs (the crossover in each sub should remain disabled). If you already know what ARC is going to Target for LF/RF crossover then that's probably a good one to use. Set it for both LF/RF and for Sub (in the Anthem) when doing each of the Velodyne EQs. Part of the problem here is that if ARC picks different values then your meticulously setup individual Velodyne Sub EQ may no longer be ideal for that adjusted crossover, but such is life.
> 
> 
> AFTER you have the separate EQ set up for each sub, then do the Polarity/Phase adjustment between the two subs and between each sub and the LF speaker. Prior to this you also need to have the speaker distance settings in place (if the subs are not equidistant from ARC mic position #1 split the difference and use that), and of course when doing Phase tests it helps if the subs/speakers are already pretty close in volume balance.
> 
> 
> Finally, do your ARC run. ARC will disable Room Resonance Filter and THX Ultra 2 Sub (and Boundary Gain Compensation and Center EQ), and will build a full solution based on what it hears from your Velodyne Sub EQs playing in combo.
> 
> 
> ======================
> 
> 
> ETA: Another problem with the Velodyne EQs is that, unless they've changed something recently, they don't attempt to detect/preserve Room Gain. That is, the Velodyne stuff is geared towards making a "flat" response -- e.g., a dead room -- whereas ARC is attempting to preserve the inherent Room Gain hump of the room.
> 
> --Bob



As usual Bob, thanks for such a detailed response. I will definitely give this a try and report back. I did miss doing quite a few steps.


----------



## jclem

I have a D2v and 2 JL subs. I found one of your earlier posts about setting the sub volumes separately and then the phase for each separately, which I understand. In this description, you stated: "You'll need the phase adjustment tones on a calibration DVD--*details are in those post links in the first post of this thread*. Could you please help me find those details? I looked and must 've missed them. Does it list discs to use, how to use the tones, or both?


I have the Aix Audio calibration disc on it's way to use in my Oppo. Will this disc work ? Thanks


----------



## erikno

Hello,


Yesterday I tested out the ARC on my D2v again, since I changed my power amp from the BAT VK 75SE to a Burmester 911 MK3 (going from 2x75W to 2x350W do make a difference







).


Anyway, I use only 2 full range speakers, - no surround, but the ARC is an important part for me both in film and music.


What I was wondering was the curve from 50 hz to 300 hz, which is regarded as the "norm" by ARC. Shouldn't this be a flat line instead of the bump? I also know I have a "terrible room, but the position of the loudspeakers is the optimal concerning the rest of the family!


I post my chart so you can see it. The targets are set currently from 45hz to 16khz, but still testing...


erikno


----------



## obie_fl

That bump is your room gain that ARC tried to preserve. Also known as a house curve. Flat on a graph doesn't necessarily sound good, a dead room is going to sound unnatural. This is something ARC actually does very well. Try playing with the room gain and you should see the bump change.


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18190621
> 
> 
> That bump is your room gain that ARC tried to preserve. Also known as a house curve. Flat on a graph doesn't necessarily sound good, a dead room is going to sound unnatural. This is something ARC actually does very well. Try playing with the room gain and you should see the bump change.



Good point! I'll try around. What does "force" mean?


erikno


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/18190991
> 
> 
> Good point! I'll try around. What does "force" mean?
> 
> 
> erikno



Hmm, reading the manual always help....










May the Force be with me flicking around with room gains and other stuff..


erikno


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/18190991
> 
> 
> Good point! I'll try around. What does "force" mean?
> 
> 
> erikno



It means it will apply it despite disregarding ARC's suggested gain.

John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/18191274
> 
> 
> Hmm, reading the manual always help....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May the Force be with me flicking around with room gains and other stuff..
> 
> 
> erikno



lol


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18186293
> 
> 
> I have a D2v and 2 JL subs. I found one of your earlier posts about setting the sub volumes separately and then the phase for each separately, which I understand. In this description, you stated: "You'll need the phase adjustment tones on a calibration DVD--*details are in those post links in the first post of this thread*. Could you please help me find those details? I looked and must 've missed them. Does it list discs to use, how to use the tones, or both?
> 
> 
> I have the Aix Audio calibration disc on it's way to use in my Oppo. Will this disc work ? Thanks



The AIX disc has a crossover test tone that can be used for adjusting subwoofer Polarity and Phase. It sends a tone to LF that moves slowly back and forth across a range of frequencies either side of a typical crossover, which means the lowest frequencies play through the sub, the highest frequencies play through LF, and the in-between frequencies play through both -- which is where mis-matched Phase will cause cancellation loss. Adjust Polarity/Phase to get the maximum volume through that region. The combination of your ARC solution and properly adjusted Polarity and Phase for your two subs should, in the end result in quite uniform volume during this test.


Other discs have pink noise signals that, again, are typically sent to LF so that bass steering sends the lowest frequencies to the subwoofer.


If your crossover is unusually low or high, it might help to temporarily set it to 80Hz in the Anthem while doing this adjustment. It also helps if the sub and LF are already in rough volume balance. And the speaker distance settings also need to be correct.


The posts on adjusting Phase are found in the Setup section of post links in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/18188809
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Yesterday I tested out the ARC on my D2v again, since I changed my power amp from the BAT VK 75SE to a Burmester 911 MK3 (going from 2x75W to 2x350W do make a difference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> Anyway, I use only 2 full range speakers, - no surround, but the ARC is an important part for me both in film and music.
> 
> 
> What I was wondering was the curve from 50 hz to 300 hz, which is regarded as the "norm" by ARC. Shouldn't this be a flat line instead of the bump? I also know I have a "terrible room, but the position of the loudspeakers is the optimal concerning the rest of the family!
> 
> 
> I post my chart so you can see it. The targets are set currently from 45hz to 16khz, but still testing...
> 
> 
> erikno



You already got an answer on the Room Gain hump from the others.


It looks like ARC believes it has found about 4dB of Room Gain in your room, which is surprising as the broad dip you have around 100Hz would typically confuse ARC into deciding there was little or no Room Gain in your room.


Your problem, is not so much the Room Gain, though as the 15dB swing between 38Hz and 90Hz. I understand you don't have the option of moving these two speakers, but there are couple things you should still consider. First, sometimes the room coupling is vertical, which means that raising the speakers a few inches (e.g., on floor spikes) could make a difference. Failing that, some bass traps in the corners behind these speakers would probably be worth a try.


Keep in mind that at these frequencies, even inches matter, so it might not take MUCH repositioning to help tame that 15dB swing.


You should also check if your LF/RF speakers have an option for adjusting their bass performance -- perhaps a bass port that you need to close.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/18188809
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Yesterday I tested out the ARC on my D2v again, since I changed my power amp from the BAT VK 75SE to a Burmester 911 MK3 (going from 2x75W to 2x350W do make a difference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> Anyway, I use only 2 full range speakers, - no surround, but the ARC is an important part for me both in film and music.
> 
> 
> What I was wondering was the curve from 50 hz to 300 hz, which is regarded as the "norm" by ARC. Shouldn't this be a flat line instead of the bump? I also know I have a "terrible room, but the position of the loudspeakers is the optimal concerning the rest of the family!
> 
> 
> I post my chart so you can see it. The targets are set currently from 45hz to 16khz, but still testing...
> 
> 
> erikno



I had a similar dip with my front left speaker and pulling it out from the wall 2ft. cured it. Might be worth a try if you can. Great thing about ARC, you can measure with your 2 channel setup quite quickly to test various positions.

John


----------



## leeshanok

I've recently ventured into separates and purchased a D2. Ran the ARC and need advice from the experts. Please take a look at my charts and let me know what you think. How can I improve it? I calculated both at the 5K and 15K. Thanks a bunch...


----------



## Texas steve

bob, could you post a "perfect" single sub ARC for reference


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18196447
> 
> 
> bob, could you post a "perfect" single sub ARC for reference



Nick thought this one looked very good









John


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks!! Just purchased a Sub 25 and want to know what I should be targeting!


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18196602
> 
> 
> Nick thought this one looked very good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## Joelc

Apologies for jumping in here...I am a former Meridian 861/621 owner who just hold their equipment as the upgrade price from V4 to V6 was insane...I am seriously considering an Anthem Statement D2v as my next pre/pro but am curious as to whether the D2v faithful here know of any newer / replacements pieces that are due in the next year or so...


Thanks so much and look forward to joining into the discussion...


----------



## obie_fl

There have been whispers of a "D3" but the consensus is it is at least a year off.


----------



## Texas steve

I switched from Meridian, and found the Anthem D2v to be much more flexable. The "sound" was as good as the Meridian, but of course the connections/video etc is way beyond Meridan











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joelc* /forum/post/18197109
> 
> 
> Apologies for jumping in here...I am a former Meridian 861/621 owner who just hold their equipment as the upgrade price from V4 to V6 was insane...I am seriously considering an Anthem Statement D2v as my next pre/pro but am curious as to whether the D2v faithful here know of any newer / replacements pieces that are due in the next year or so...
> 
> 
> Thanks so much and look forward to joining into the discussion...


----------



## Joelc

@obi_fl, thanks, that is what I was looking and hoping for...


----------



## Joelc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18197457
> 
> 
> I switched from Meridian, and found the Anthem D2v to be much more flexable. The "sound" was as good as the Meridian, but of course the connections/video etc is way beyond Meridan



I hope that I find the same in terms of the audio...the video truly is NOT a concern of mine as I have all my video routed through a Lumagen RadianceXE...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18196680
> 
> 
> Thanks!! Just purchased a Sub 25 and want to know what I should be targeting!



Great sub! I was told by Nick to look for a fairly flat response from 100 Hz to 20 Hz on the chart, with high dB output. As you can see, this is essentially what I got after moving my sub. The sub 25 will be able to surpass mine, ie. dig deeper in the sub 20 freq. and do it louder. Depends on the size of your room. For me the servo 15 is more than adequate for my 14x25x7.5 ft. room.

John


----------



## erikno

Thanks for all inputs!


I've been testing today here in Norway with different positions ++, but my room is still sonically terrible. However, tweaking the ARC based upon the tips I got, I now sonicwise, have a significant better sound.


I tested different room gains, and ended for the time being up on 2,2, (down from 3,9)which gave a good balance between different forms of music (Grieg - Black Eyed Peas etc..) and film, where I tested out Transformers 2 and Quantum of Solace.


I also ended up by setting the frequence band between 45 hz and 18 khz. I do know that this will be subject to further testing, but having the Olympics, gives little access to these things...!


Anyway, the whole thing just came toghether and I also notice that my new Anthem BLX 200 Blue Ray player gives a much better picture (depth) than the old Panny dmp 50, and of course better sound (more details), but you nevner know what effected the most, the new amplifier from Burmester (911) or the Anthem Blue ray player.


What I do can say, is that the D2v in the company with only High end equipment all the way, including a $15 K CD player with volume, I still clearly prefer to send the signal through the D2v and the room correction, instead of going straight to the amp. The D2v is THAT good.


erikno


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/18198800
> 
> 
> Thanks for all inputs!
> 
> 
> I've been testing today here in Norway with different positions ++, but my room is still sonically terrible. However, tweaking the ARC based upon the tips I got, I now sonicwise, have a significant better sound.
> 
> 
> I tested different room gains, and ended for the time being up on 2,2, (down from 3,9)which gave a good balance between different forms of music (Grieg - Black Eyed Peas etc..) and film, where I tested out Transformers 2 and Quantum of Solace.
> 
> 
> I also ended up by setting the frequence band between 45 hz and 18 khz. I do know that this will be subject to further testing, but having the Olympics, gives little access to these things...!
> 
> 
> Anyway, the whole thing just came toghether and I also notice that my new Anthem BLX 200 Blue Ray player gives a much better picture (depth) than the old Panny dmp 50, and of course better sound (more details), but you nevner know what effected the most, the new amplifier from Burmester (911) or the Anthem Blue ray player.
> 
> 
> What I do can say, is that the D2v in the company with only High end equipment all the way, including a $15 K CD player with volume, I still clearly prefer to send the signal through the D2v and the room correction, instead of going straight to the amp. The D2v is THAT good.
> 
> 
> erikno



Keep plugging at it. When I look at my graphs from last year, the difference is very obvious due to tweaking with ARC and moving speakers around to get the best measurements. Glad it's working better for you.

John


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/18198800
> 
> 
> Thanks for all inputs!
> 
> 
> I've been testing today here in Norway with different positions ++, but my room is still sonically terrible. However, tweaking the ARC based upon the tips I got, I now sonicwise, have a significant better sound.
> 
> 
> I tested different room gains, and ended for the time being up on 2,2, (down from 3,9)which gave a good balance between different forms of music (Grieg - Black Eyed Peas etc..) and film, where I tested out Transformers 2 and Quantum of Solace.
> 
> 
> I also ended up by setting the frequence band between 45 hz and 18 khz. I do know that this will be subject to further testing, but having the Olympics, gives little access to these things...!
> 
> 
> Anyway, the whole thing just came toghether and I also notice that my new Anthem BLX 200 Blue Ray player gives a much better picture (depth) than the old Panny dmp 50, and of course better sound (more details), but you nevner know what effected the most, the new amplifier from Burmester (911) or the Anthem Blue ray player.
> 
> 
> What I do can say, is that the D2v in the company with only High end equipment all the way, including a $15 K CD player with volume, I still clearly prefer to send the signal through the D2v and the room correction, instead of going straight to the amp. The D2v is THAT good.
> 
> 
> erikno



Glad to hear your success. I think the amp from Burmester at 350wpc made a big diffrenece in sound coming from 75wpc. I use Elac 600 series for my speaker set and they are powered by Classe amps with 350wpc at the front LCR, 150wpc sides and 100w at the rear.


----------



## dhoff01

Newbie question here. Assuming I have cd player with superior dacs than my d2v, if I still want to take advantage of ARC, am I better off using the analog connection with Anlg DSP processing or skipping the player's internal DACs and using a digital connection? In other words, will the analog to digital to analog processing do nothing more than add another conversion step and effectively eliminate any advantage I might gain by using the cd players dacs?


I'm fairly ignorant when it comes to these things (at least when compared to many on this forum), so bear with me if I'm missing something. If not, any input would be appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## davoe

I'm quite satisfied with my ARC solution and love my system's sound. I read your recent post about using the crossover track from the AIX disc for setting sub phase. I used that track and found the peak volume of the crossover band. I previously left the phase at 0 degrees, even though it is behind my LF and angled into the room at 45 degrees. That was a great suggestion, better than using SPL with pink noise.


Now I find that there is too much bass when I listen to music. Which control should I use to lower the overall bass (not just LFE) so I still get a smooth transition but a lower level? I don't have a music configuration in ARC.


Thanks.


----------



## obie_fl

Anthem advertises their A/D conversion as being transparent. Having said that if you are using ARC or Analog DSP you are going through the D2s DACs anyway. Personally I'd probably just go straight digital in but it would be worth while comparing the two and judging for your self.


----------



## dhoff01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18204618
> 
> 
> Anthem advertises their A/D conversion as being transparent. Having said that if you are using ARC or Analog DSP you are going through the D2s DACs anyway. Personally I'd probably just go straight digital in but it would be worth while comparing the two and judging for your self.



Thanks for the reply. I'd love to compare, but presently all my music is on my macbook pro's hd. I'm sending it from the MBP's digital out in lossless straight to the Anthem. I've been looking at buying a dedicated high end cd player (and breaking out my cd storage boxes), but started to wonder whether it would do me any justice if I wanted to use ARC. So I guess I was hoping someone else had done an a/b comparison already.


----------



## obie_fl

Well I could never go back to physical media to be honest. The only time I use physical media is for SACD or DVD-A. For my music listening I use streaming via digital coax like yourself. I have tested the analog out of both my Oppo BDP-83 and Pioneer Elite 79ai and always ended up back at a digital interface (HDMI or Coax). To my ears switching between all the different sources and interfaces had minimal impact compared to ARC. I'm also of the opinion a good lossless rip is better streamed then reading ones and zeroes off a relatively slow shiny disc.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18204568
> 
> 
> I'm quite satisfied with my ARC solution and love my system's sound. I read your recent post about using the crossover track from the AIX disc for setting sub phase. I used that track and found the peak volume of the crossover band. I previously left the phase at 0 degrees, even though it is behind my LF and angled into the room at 45 degrees. That was a great suggestion, better than using SPL with pink noise.
> 
> 
> Now I find that there is too much bass when I listen to music. Which control should I use to lower the overall bass (not just LFE) so I still get a smooth transition but a lower level? I don't have a music configuration in ARC.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Did you change anything in your ARC setup when adjusting subwoofer Phase --e.g., changing the crossovers or volume trims? If so, you need to restore those. The easiest way may be to just re-Upload your ARC results, which won't undo your Phase stuff.


If you have more than one sub, you must re-Measure for ARC after adjusting Phase for each sub.


If those don't lead to an easy answer, post your ARC charts and let's see where the problem might be.


But to answer your question, if you want to temporarily lower all sub output for a given source, press Menu on the remote and use up/down arrow to adjust the temporary sub trim independent of its main volume trim in Setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhoff01* /forum/post/18204358
> 
> 
> Newbie question here. Assuming I have cd player with superior dacs than my d2v, if I still want to take advantage of ARC, am I better off using the analog connection with Anlg DSP processing or skipping the player's internal DACs and using a digital connection? In other words, will the analog to digital to analog processing do nothing more than add another conversion step and effectively eliminate any advantage I might gain by using the cd players dacs?
> 
> 
> I'm fairly ignorant when it comes to these things (at least when compared to many on this forum), so bear with me if I'm missing something. If not, any input would be appreciated. Thanks!



Audio processing is done with Digital audio in the Anthem. So if you want to use ARC for example you will need to let the Anthem redigitize the analog audio input from your player's good DACs.


So you've got 3 ways to go. Analog-Direct in the Anthem will pass throughthe analog audio from your player with no processing at all. Just volume control. Analog-DSP wil redigitize the analog input, process it, and convert it back to analog for output to you power amp. Or you could switch to using digital audio from your player which means its fancy DACs are bypassed entirely.


My preference is door 3, but quite a few folks here use door 2. Few end up using door 1 as that means you can't get ARC processing.


But really the only way to know for sure is to try it yourself and see which you like better.

--Bob


----------



## dhoff01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18205218
> 
> 
> Well I could never go back to physical media to be honest. The only time I use physical media is for SACD or DVD-A. For my music listening I use streaming via digital coax like yourself. I have tested the analog out of both my Oppo BDP-83 and Pioneer Elite 79ai and always ended up back at a digital interface (HDMI or Coax). To my ears switching between all the different sources and interfaces had minimal impact compared to ARC. I'm also of the opinion a good lossless rip is better streamed then reading ones and zeroes off a relatively slow shiny disc.



Interesting. I too have the BDP-83, but since the DACs in the d2v are at least as good, I didn't bother comparing it to my lossless collection. I do have a number of SACDs, and the desire to improve upon my Oppo for these cds is really what got me wondering. I probably should've just done the upgrade to the SE, but too late for that now...


----------



## dhoff01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18205396
> 
> 
> Audio processing is done with Digital audio in the Anthem. So if you want to use ARC for example you will need to let the Anthem redigitize the analog audio input from your player's good DACs.
> 
> 
> So you've got 3 ways to go. Analog-Direct in the Anthem will pass throughthe analog audio from your player with no processing at all. Just volume control. Analog-DSP wil redigitize the analog input, process it, and convert it back to analog for output to you power amp. Or you could switch to using digital audio from your player which means its fancy DACs are bypassed entirely.
> 
> 
> My preference is door 3, but quite a few folks here use door 2. Few end up using door 1 as that means you can't get ARC processing.
> 
> 
> But really the only way to know for sure is to try it yourself and see which you like better.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. You summed up my dilemma nicely. I'm clearly stuck between what's behind door #2 and door #3, but without the means (currently) to adequatey compare. Just curious though - why did you decide on bypassing your cd's DACs for the d2v's?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leeshanok* /forum/post/18193548
> 
> 
> I've recently ventured into separates and purchased a D2. Ran the ARC and need advice from the experts. Please take a look at my charts and let me know what you think. How can I improve it? I calculated both at the 5K and 15K. Thanks a bunch...



I don't see any serious problems in these Music configuration charts. Your surround speakers are weak in bass but it looks like your sub can handle that.


Your sub rolls off below 25Hz, which is not bad although there are subs that can go deeper. Make sure you don't have a subsonic filter turned on in the sub and try moving it closer to the wall/corner to see if you can get some Boundary Gain to help down there.


But really what you have right now should sound quite good for Stereo music content. For critical listening you will probably want to use Stereo audio mode to eliminate the Surrounds. I.e., LF/RF/Sub only.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhoff01* /forum/post/18205480
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. You summed up my dilemma nicely. I'm clearly stuck between what's behind door #2 and door #3, but without the means (currently) to adequatey compare. Just curious though - why did you decide on bypassing your cd's DACs for the d2v's?



I like the D2v DACs, and see no value in doing the extra conversion to analog in the player since I need digital in the Anthem for ARC.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18205326
> 
> 
> Did you change anything in your ARC setup when adjusting subwoofer Phase --e.g., changing the crossovers or volume trims? If so, you need to restore those. The easiest way may be to just re-Upload your ARC results, which won't undo your Phase stuff.
> 
> 
> If you have more than one sub, you must re-Measure for ARC after adjusting Phase for each sub.
> 
> 
> If those don't lead to an easy answer, post your ARC charts and let's see where the problem might be.
> 
> 
> But to answer your question, if you want to temporarily lower all sub output for a given source, press Menu on the remote and use up/down arrow to adjust the temporary sub trim independent of its main volume trim in Setup.
> 
> --Bob





Maybe he has Dolby Volume on?


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18205218
> 
> 
> Well I could never go back to physical media to be honest. The only time I use physical media is for SACD or DVD-A. For my music listening I use streaming via digital coax like yourself. I have tested the analog out of both my Oppo BDP-83 and Pioneer Elite 79ai and always ended up back at a digital interface (HDMI or Coax). To my ears switching between all the different sources and interfaces had minimal impact compared to ARC. I'm also of the opinion a good lossless rip is better streamed then reading ones and zeroes off a relatively slow shiny disc.



agreed! I love having all my music at the touch of my ipod touch and stream it thru my d2v home theater set up!


----------



## leeshanok

Bob,

Thanks for the input! I hear a noticeable difference between before and after ARC, and somewhat satisfied but a bit dissapointed in the low end as my Def Tech Reference sub had a tighter, more impact bass before ARC. I'm going to play around with increasing the room gain to try to get a better sub response that is closer to the measurement. My sub is already a few inches closer to the wall. Lee


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leeshanok* /forum/post/18206904
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for the input! I hear a noticeable difference between before and after ARC, and somewhat satisfied but a bit dissapointed in the low end as my Def Tech Reference sub had a tighter, more impact bass before ARC. I'm going to play around with increasing the room gain to try to get a better sub response that is closer to the measurement. My sub is already a few inches closer to the wall. Lee



Your charts don't show that much correction but your fronts are reduced in bass a bit. I suggest you check the Phase of your sub. With only one sub you can fix that without having to redo ARC.

--Bob


----------



## leeshanok




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18207029
> 
> 
> Your charts don't show that much correction but your fronts are reduced in bass a bit. I suggest you check the Phase of your sub. With only one sub you can fix that without having to redo ARC.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

The phase on my sub is set to zero, crossover freq at 150. I did A/B listening test between Adv Setting being on and off (LF/RF Large, Sub at 1 super) and the bass sounds better with it off. When Adv Setting was on, I could not change sub to 1 super, only between 1 sub and 2 subs. With Adv setting off, is ARC still active? Lee


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leeshanok* /forum/post/18207299
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> The phase on my sub is set to zero, crossover freq at 150. I did A/B listening test between Adv Setting being on and off (LF/RF Large, Sub at 1 super) and the bass sounds better with it off. When Adv Setting was on, I could not change sub to 1 super, only between 1 sub and 2 subs. With Adv setting off, is ARC still active? Lee



ARC is still active but you've broken the ARC solution


You can't fiddle with the crossovers or volume trims or the speaker configuration after Uploading an ARC solution because ARC sets all those and depends upon those settings.


When using ARC with a subwoofer you MUST set 1 Sub, even if you have more than one, and not use 1 Super either.


It appears your problem with bass starts with your mistaken use of 1 Super.


Change to 1Sub, redo ARC, and don't fiddle with Advanced settings afterwards.

--Bob


----------



## leeshanok




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18207369
> 
> 
> ARC is still active but you've broken the ARC solution
> 
> 
> You can't fiddle with the crossovers or volume trims or the speaker configuration after Uploading an ARC solution because ARC sets all those and depends upon those settings.
> 
> 
> When using ARC with a subwoofer you MUST set 1 Sub, even if you have more than one, and not use 1 Super either.
> 
> 
> It appears your problem with bass starts with your mistaken use of 1 Super.
> 
> 
> Change to 1Sub, redo ARC, and don't fiddle with Advanced settings afterwards.
> 
> --Bob



You mean I have to measure again with the microphone just because I changed the adv. settings to off, then moved to back to on just to compare the sound. And that because I may have set the sub to 1 super before ARC and the fact that after ARC, the processor changes to 1 sub, I have to remeasure. I'm also going to experiment with uploading ARC with target set where LF & LR is set to full range for music only.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leeshanok* /forum/post/18207441
> 
> 
> You mean I have to measure again with the microphone just because I changed the adv. settings to off, then moved to back to on just to compare the sound. And that because I may have set the sub to 1 super before ARC and the fact that after ARC, the processor changes to 1 sub, I have to remeasure. I'm also going to experiment with uploading ARC with target set where LF & LR is set to full range for music only.



You should re-Measure because your current Measurements were done with 1 Super set for the sub. Leave it at 1 Sub both for Measurement and for use.


The other Setup setting changes can just be reversed.


To experiment with Full Range for LF/RF, make the change in the ARC Targets window, re-Calculate, and re-Upload the resulting ARC solution.

--Bob


----------



## leeshanok




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18207658
> 
> 
> You should re-Measure because your current Measurements were done with 1 Super set for the sub. Leave it at 1 Sub both for Measurement and for use.
> 
> 
> The other Setup setting changes can just be reversed.
> 
> 
> To experiment with Full Range for LF/RF, make the change in the ARC Targets window, re-Calculate, and re-Upload the resulting ARC solution.
> 
> --Bob



By golly.... I played with room gain and settled at 3.25 and it sounds much better with bass more articulate than before. I'll stick with this for now, but will re-measure with 1 sub and compare the two. Much happier for now.... Thank you Bob for your insight!


----------



## davoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18205326
> 
> 
> Did you change anything in your ARC setup when adjusting subwoofer Phase --e.g., changing the crossovers or volume trims? If so, you need to restore those. The easiest way may be to just re-Upload your ARC results, which won't undo your Phase stuff.
> 
> 
> If you have more than one sub, you must re-Measure for ARC after adjusting Phase for each sub.
> 
> 
> If those don't lead to an easy answer, post your ARC charts and let's see where the problem might be.
> 
> 
> But to answer your question, if you want to temporarily lower all sub output for a given source, press Menu on the remote and use up/down arrow to adjust the temporary sub trim independent of its main volume trim in Setup.
> 
> --Bob



I didn't change anything in my settings. Just adjusted the phase on my F113. My room gain is 3.9, if I reduce the room gain won't that bring down the amplitude of the solution around the crossover frequency? That's all I want to do.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18208211
> 
> 
> I didn't change anything in my settings. Just adjusted the phase on my F113. My room gain is 3.9, if I reduce the room gain won't that bring down the amplitude of the solution around the crossover frequency? That's all I want to do.



Sure, but if you are hearing a poor bass transition through the crossover after adjusting sub phase, that indicates there is something wrong in your ARC solution. Proper Phase should make your ARC solution sound better, not worse. Before fiddling with Room Gain, I suggest you re-Upload your current ARC solution "just in case" and see if you still hear the bass problem. Also make sure Room EQ is still ON for your source(s), and if you are using the Dolby Volume "test" firmware, make sure Dolby Volume is OFF.


The question is whether the 3.9dB Room Gain is reasonable for your room and that's best answered by looking at the Measured curves in the charts.

--Bob


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhoff01* /forum/post/18204358
> 
> 
> Newbie question here. Assuming I have cd player with superior dacs than my d2v, if I still want to take advantage of ARC, am I better off using the analog connection with Anlg DSP processing or skipping the player's internal DACs and using a digital connection? In other words, will the analog to digital to analog processing do nothing more than add another conversion step and effectively eliminate any advantage I might gain by using the cd players dacs?
> 
> 
> I'm fairly ignorant when it comes to these things (at least when compared to many on this forum), so bear with me if I'm missing something. If not, any input would be appreciated. Thanks!



Well, as Bob says, you should listen to find out. I did that, and concluded that my dCS P8i internal DAC was far superior to the DAC inside the D2v. Which actually makes sense, since the P8i 's DAC is a truly great one! The difference I heard, was basically even more details, and more space. Therefore, I ended up to use analog XLR cables to the D2v, use the DSP and spit it out again in analog fashion to the amp. However, I do turn off the bass/treble controls on the D2v (bypass). This is a solely ARC operation.










Remember, that these things also depends on the rest of the gear, everything from amps to loudspeakers and the odd cable. There can be variations, so you will need to listen.


erikno


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/18208479
> 
> 
> Well, as Bob says, you should listen to find out. I did that, and concluded that my dCS P8i internal DAC was far superior to the DAC inside the D2v. Which actually makes sense, since the P8i 's DAC is a truly great one! The difference I heard, was basically even more details, and more space. Therefore, I ended up to use analog XLR cables to the D2v, use the DSP and spit it out again in analog fashion to the amp. However, I do turn off the bass/treble controls on the D2v (bypass). This is a solely ARC operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember, that these things also depends on the rest of the gear, everything from amps to loudspeakers and the odd cable. There can be variations, so you will need to listen.
> 
> 
> erikno




I also agree that the Anthem's DACs are not the best, although I have an AVM-50... I love my Anthem for multi-channel music, but it does not compare to a true 2 channel system.


I have my PS Audio GCA-250 control amp connected to my Anthem in HT Bypass for normal multi-channel listening, but when I want to do some serious 2 channel listening, I turn off the Anthem, and switch the GCA input to my PS Audio PWD/PWT combination, although the bass thru my analogue control amp fed by the high end DAC is not as good as ARC, the over-all music is much better coming from this DAC than from the Anthem.



Ed


----------



## JimmyTango




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/18208479
> 
> 
> Well, as Bob says, you should listen to find out. I did that, and concluded that my dCS P8i internal DAC was far superior to the DAC inside the D2v. Which actually makes sense, since the P8i 's DAC is a truly great one! The difference I heard, was basically even more details, and more space. Therefore, I ended up to use analog XLR cables to the D2v, use the DSP and spit it out again in analog fashion to the amp. However, I do turn off the bass/treble controls on the D2v (bypass). This is a solely ARC operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember, that these things also depends on the rest of the gear, everything from amps to loudspeakers and the odd cable. There can be variations, so you will need to listen.
> 
> 
> erikno



Maybe I am confused. You send the Anthem the signal via XLR analog from your outboard DAC, use ARC in the Anthem, then the analog signal to your amp?


You are still using the Anthem's DACs doing this(unless I have been misinformed). The analog signal is turned to digital, ARC is applied, then the digital is turned back to analog using the Anthem's DACs. So it isn't a 'solely ARC operation.' You may prefer the sound this way, but the Anthem is still doing the final digital to analog.


This leads me to something I have been wondering about. There are digital RCA outs on the back of the unit. Can the Statement pass the ARC digital signal to an external DAC??? What about via HDMI out? Should there ever be a DAC that accepts HDMI(I don't know, maybe there is one now already), could the Anthem send the pure digital signal with ARC to an external DAC that way?


----------



## Texas steve

Bob, are you saying that for example. After a ARC I want to perminatley raise the surround level and I adjust them by raising the volume trim ARC is no longer being used? Or that I simply have changed that portion of it.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18207369
> 
> 
> ARC is still active but you've broken the ARC solution
> 
> 
> You can't fiddle with the crossovers or volume trims or the speaker configuration after Uploading an ARC solution because ARC sets all those and depends upon those settings.
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimmyTango* /forum/post/18209162
> 
> 
> Maybe I am confused. You send the Anthem the signal via XLR analog from your outboard DAC, use ARC in the Anthem, then the analog signal to your amp?
> 
> 
> You are still using the Anthem's DACs doing this(unless I have been misinformed). The analog signal is turned to digital, ARC is applied, then the digital is turned back to analog using the Anthem's DACs. So it isn't a 'solely ARC operation.' You may prefer the sound this way, but the Anthem is still doing the final digital to analog.



I think what he is implying is that if you feed the Anthem with a very high quality analog signal, that through Anthems ADC --> DSP (Arc) -->DAC that the high quality is preserved in the Anthem, but if you feed the Anthem with a digital signal then something is lost in just carrying out the DSP (Arc) & DAC. It maybe that in doing the conversions inside the Anthem that timing (phase, clock, ...) is preserved since everything is internal, but if it just receives a digital signal then some of this information is lost.


I honestly don't know if this is correct, but the newer higher end Denon Pre/Pros & Bluray players provide an extra link (aside from the HDMI) which is supposed to preserve information. Is this all BS? I have no idea.


I have a similar experience where I supply music from my mac mini server to my D1 in two ways (due to the fact that the D1 will not supply zones from digital inputs without using the copy function). One is using a straight optical route, the other is to take the optical information through the basic Music Fidelity DAC and output an analog signal to the D1 (set to analog DSP). I have to say that the DAC route seems more "open" than the all digital route despite going through an extra conversion.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18209178
> 
> 
> Bob, are you saying that for example. After a ARC I want to perminatley raise the surround level and I adjust them by raising the volume trim ARC is no longer being used? Or that I simply have changed that portion of it.



No, I don't believe that is what he is saying. ARC is still in effect, just that in raising any element (LF, LR, C, S, R, Sub) after ARC has calculated what those relative volumes should be is defeating the point of running ARC.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18209178
> 
> 
> Bob, are you saying that for example. After a ARC I want to perminatley raise the surround level and I adjust them by raising the volume trim ARC is no longer being used? Or that I simply have changed that portion of it.



ARC is still being used, but something is wrong. The volume trims that ARC Uploads are "correct".


If you feel ARC has made a mistake -- that you want to change the speaker balance for all content -- then you should look first to see if you have made a mistake instead. This could have happened in the way you positioned the mics or took the ARC Measurements for example (e.g., standing between a speaker and the mic, or mic tip blocked by a seat back, or having the room configured differently during Measurements than what you use for normal listening). Or you could simply have turned off Room EQ for that Source by mistake. Or you could have accidentally modified the values ARC Uploaded while poking around in the Setup menu or due to mistakenly reloading Saved User or Installer Settings that did not actually contain the results of the most recent ARC Upload.


Keep in mind you can always just do a re-Upload of your most recent ARC results if you think it possible you might have screwed up the Setup menu settings since your prior Upload. Remember to Save User and Installer Settings after an ARC Upload to capture the Setup menu changes Uploaded by ARC.


In any event it is wise to consider operator error in such a case. Balancing the speakers is one of the easiest things for ARC to do. Trust its result.


If, on the other hand, you just want to reduce or boost the surround field for some particular content -- some content where you disagree with the sound engineer as to the proper mix -- your best tool is to use the "temporary" volume adjustments available through the remote. See Section 4.6 of the Manual. These temporary trim adjustments do not alter the volume trims in the Setup menu. They are in addition to those trims. Just remember to reset any temporary trims when you are done listening to the problem content.


NOTE 1: It is easy to get confused about which temporary volume trims you might have set, and forget to undo all of them. If you are having speaker volume issues, check the temporary trims FIRST. To reset ALL of the temporary trims, all at once, go into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults; if you lose video continue via the front panel display

3) Reload Saved User Settings


Since the temporary volume trims are not saved, this restores all of them to 0dB for all Sources and types of audio input.


NOTE 2: ARC uses a wider range of frequencies to pick its volume trims than will be heard by an SPL meter. And the effective volume trim is actually a combination of the volume trim value and the application of room correction boosts or cuts ARC applies. But the room correction stuff is not applied when playing the test tones. So for these two reasons it is normal for the test tones in Setup > Speaker Calibration to differ a few dB when measured with your SPL meter after an ARC Upload. Trust the values ARC Uploaded.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/18208757
> 
> 
> I also agree that the Anthem's DACs are not the best, although I have an AVM-50... I love my Anthem for multi-channel music, but it does not compare to a true 2 channel system.



The analog output stage of the D2v is superior to that of the original AVM-50. NOTE: Analog output quality is not simply determined by DACs. The circuit around the DACs is also crucial. That said, it is always fine to try the different signal path options and pick whichever one YOU like best.


For folks using ANALOG-DSP input for 2-channel critical listening, be sure to raise the digitizer sampling rate in Setup > ADC. By default it is set to 44.1 KHz for compatibility with digital recorders. Raise it to 96KHz if you don't need such compatibility. The digitizer sampling rate for the 6-channel input is already at 96KHz by default. See Section 3.9 of the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Im sure ARC did it right, I just "prefer" the sourrounds a little higher in volume on a perminate basis.


So if I adjust the surrounds up a couple of DB (not in the temp setting) perminatley will that screw up anyting else in ARC?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18210182
> 
> 
> ARC is still being used, but something is wrong. The volume trims that ARC Uploads are "correct".
> 
> 
> If you feel ARC has made a mistake -- that you want to change the speaker balance for all content -- then you should look first to see if you have made a mistake instead. This could have happened in the way you positioned the mics or took the ARC Measurements for example (e.g., standing between a speaker and the mic, or mic tip blocked by a seat back, or having the room configured differently during Measurements than what you use for normal listening). Or you could simply have turned off Room EQ for that Source by mistake. Or you could have accidentally modified the values ARC Uploaded while poking around in the Setup menu or due to mistakenly reloading Saved User or Installer Settings that did not actually contain the results of the most recent ARC Upload.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind you can always just do a re-Upload of your most recent ARC results if you think it possible you might have screwed up the Setup menu settings since your prior Upload. Remember to Save User and Installer Settings after an ARC Upload to capture the Setup menu changes Uploaded by ARC.
> 
> 
> In any event it is wise to consider operator error in such a case. Balancing the speakers is one of the easiest things for ARC to do. Trust its result.
> 
> 
> If, on the other hand, you just want to reduce or boost the surround field for some particular content -- some content where you disagree with the sound engineer as to the proper mix -- your best tool is to use the "temporary" volume adjustments available through the remote. See Section 4.6 of the Manual. These temporary trim adjustments do not alter the volume trims in the Setup menu. They are in addition to those trims. Just remember to reset any temporary trims when you are done listening to the problem content.
> 
> 
> NOTE 1: It is easy to get confused about which temporary volume trims you might have set, and forget to undo all of them. If you are having speaker volume issues, check the temporary trims FIRST. To reset ALL of the temporary trims, all at once, go into Setup and:
> 
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 
> 2) Reload Factory Defaults; if you lose video continue via the front panel display
> 
> 3) Reload Saved User Settings
> 
> 
> Since the temporary volume trims are not saved, this restores all of them to 0dB for all Sources and types of audio input.
> 
> 
> NOTE 2: ARC uses a wider range of frequencies to pick its volume trims than will be heard by an SPL meter. And the effective volume trim is actually a combination of the volume trim value and the application of room correction boosts or cuts ARC applies. But the room correction stuff is not applied when playing the test tones. So for these two reasons it is normal for the test tones in Setup > Speaker Calibration to differ a few dB when measured with your SPL meter after an ARC Upload. Trust the values ARC Uploaded.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## drhankz

*Home Entertainment Magazine Jan/Feb 2010 - 10 BEST pieces of gear*


N*ot best in class - one of the top 10 BEST pieces of gear covering all CLASSES.*


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18210828
> 
> *Home Entertainment Magazine Jan/Feb 2010 - 10 BEST pieces of gear*
> 
> 
> N*ot best in class - one of the top 10 BEST pieces of gear covering all CLASSES.*



You should get a cookie for that find!


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18210223
> 
> 
> For folks using ANALOG-DSP input for 2-channel critical listening, be sure to raise the digitizer sampling rate in Setup > ADC. By default it is set to 44.1 KHz for compatibility with digital recorders. Raise it to 96KHz if you don't need such compatibility. The digitizer sampling rate for the 6-channel input is already at 96KHz by default. See Section 3.9 of the Manual.
> 
> --Bob



Of course, I've set my D2v to 96 khz on all options.


Anyway, I do not know exactly the technical stuff. What I do know, is what my ears hear. I do think that the conversion done in the dCS transformes the signal to a higher analog level. The extra round in the D2v, probably just "keep" the quality, not acting as so much as a filter. However, the dynamics may be suffering a bit, but the pleasure of the ARC more than outweights this. Basically a balance act. You loose some, and gain some, and in this instance, more gain (not room gain....)










erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18210655
> 
> 
> Im sure ARC did it right, I just "prefer" the sourrounds a little higher in volume on a perminate basis.
> 
> 
> So if I adjust the surrounds up a couple of DB (not in the temp setting) perminatley will that screw up anyting else in ARC?



No.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/18211185
> 
> 
> You should get a cookie for that find!



I was reading the Magazine in the HOT TUB last night


----------



## rfc_2002











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/17305139
> 
> 
> Here's the product page for the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter (Tripp Lite now owns Keyspan) showing up to date drivers supporting Vista 32/64 bit -- even for Mac OS X 10.6 which just recently came out.
> 
> http://www.tripplite.com/en/products...xtModelID=3914
> 
> 
> You can get it for a lot less than $46 (e.g., at Amazon):
> 
> http://www.tripplite.com/en/products...?sSKU=USA-19HS
> 
> 
> --Bob



I just purchased the D2v. I look forward to setting it up. (I now need to add sheetrock where the previous processor extended into the wall)

I have an imac, snow leopard. I need to get a usb to serial adaptor. I've searched here for a recommendation and believe the cord I should get is the keyspan 19HS. Here's a link to Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Keyspan-Speed-...7216164&sr=8-1 


1. Is this the best cord to get?

2. Being I'll bring the 24" imac to the HT room and plug it into the D2v.


If another brand usb to serial adaptor is recommended, would you provide a link or name.


Thank you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rfc_2002* /forum/post/18211829
> 
> 
> I just purchased the D2v. I look forward to setting it up.
> 
> I have a imac, snow leopard. I need to get a usb to serial adaptor. I've searched here for a recommendation and believe the cord I should get is the keyspan 19HS. Here's a link to Amazon:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Keyspan-Speed-...7216164&sr=8-1
> 
> 
> 1. Is this the best cord to get?
> 
> 2. Being I'll bring the 24" imac to the HT room and plug it into the D2v, I could use a longer cord than 3 feet. (The D2v is on a five foot high bookshelf and the imac will be placed on a temporary table for connectivity). Does keyspan make this adaptor with a 6 foot cord, or can I add an extension usb cord to this 3 foot cord?
> 
> 
> If another brand usb to serial adaptor with a 2 meter is recommended, would you provide a link or name.
> 
> 
> Thank you.



Yes, get the Keyspan USA-19HS. Plug that into the USB socket in your Mac.


Meanwhile take the serial cable that comes with your D2v and screw it down onto the socket at the back of your D2v. You can leave it attached permanently that way, coiled up when not in use.


When you want to use it, extend that serial cable and screw it onto the Keyspan at your Mac.


NOTE: You need Windows to run the Anthem stuff including firmware installers and the ARC application. One way to do that on your Mac is with Boot Camp and a retail copy of Windows XP, Vista, or 7.

--Bob


----------



## rfc_2002

Hi Bob,

Thank you for your quick and informative response.

I just purchased a copy of Windows XP SP3. I will install that via Bootcamp.

Now, I know which cable to order.

Hopefully these will talk to each other problem free.

I'll be posting more questions, I'm sure.

Someday, I'll be able to help answer my fellow D2v brothers and sisters questions down the road.


----------



## davoe

Here is a clever and accurate way to set the phase and polarity of your sub. Get a test disc that can play a signal at or near your crossover frequency (mine's 80Hz). Disable all speakers except the front speaker nearest the sub. Reverse the polarity of that front speaker and play the test sound. Now position yourself in between the the front speaker and the sub and find the polarity and phase that produces a sharp null. It's a lot easier to find the null than peaking the sound (with the front at it's correct polarity).


When I did this, it made a huge difference in my system, especially playing music.


----------



## jamulian

I finally made a choice and purchased an AVM 50 and A5 to go with the S6, C5, and Sub 12. All on order.

I have a question. My dealer highly recommends that I purchase a surge protector and filter that runs from $500 to $1500. Are you folks running one with your Anthem systems?

Thanks.


----------



## Huttizo

I see an Anthem D2v on Audiogon at a great deal. A factory sealed one and a fairly new one. Is it safe to buy on audiogon?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Huttizo* /forum/post/18214870
> 
> 
> I see an Anthem D2v on Audiogon at a great deal. A factory sealed one and a fairly new one. Is it safe to buy on audiogon?



Look at his feedback rating and if you want to, you can have an Escrow service so that you will have peace of mind.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/18214866
> 
> 
> I finally made a choice and purchased an AVM 50 and A5 to go with the S6, C5, and Sub 12. All on order.
> 
> I have a question. My dealer highly recommends that I purchase a surge protector and filter that runs from $500 to $1500. Are you folks running one with your Anthem systems?
> 
> Thanks.



I think Anthem even discourages the use of such surge protectors as they have ample of protection already.


----------



## rsinclair

I'm using a d2v with a PS3 as a source for both Blu-ray and gaming.


When I'm watching a Blu-ray, I want the d2v to use 24 fps, but when I'm gaming, I want it set at 60 fps.


Is there a setting in the d2v that will automatically detect whether the PS3 is outputting 24 fps during a Blu-ray and 60 fps while playing a game, and automatically switch to the correct mode?


Does the "Frame Lock" feature (perhaps set to "Auto"?) have anything to do with this?


Thanks,

R


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsinclair* /forum/post/18215169
> 
> 
> I'm using a d2v with a PS3 as a source for both Blu-ray and gaming.
> 
> 
> When I'm watching a Blu-ray, I want the d2v to use 24 fps, but when I'm gaming, I want it set at 60 fps.
> 
> 
> Is there a setting in the d2v that will automatically detect whether the PS3 is outputting 24 fps during a Blu-ray and 60 fps while playing a game, and automatically switch to the correct mode?
> 
> 
> Does the "Frame Lock" feature (perhaps set to "Auto"?) have anything to do with this?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> R



Yes. Use a Video Output configuration of 1080p/24 and set Frame Lock = Auto. When the input is 1080p/24 (or 1080i/60 that is derived from an original /24 film-based content stream) the D2v output will remain 1080p/24. Otherwise it will switch to 1080p/60. Expect the HDMI handshake to take a little longer.


The PS3 does not have the ability to de-interlace "live concert" style Blu-Ray discs (1080i/60 on disc instead of the more common 1080p/24 for movie discs). In such cases the PS3 will output 1080i/60 (not 1080p/60) and the Frame Lock feature in the D2v will take some additional time deciding the input is not "film based" content. I.e., the handshake will take even more time.


NOTE: You will also want to set up a Video Output configuration of 1080p/60 for use in other cases. The 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion (for film based source content) is preliminary. If you run into stuttering with some particular content, switch to 1080p/60 output. You can select between your Video Output configurations on the fly using the shortcut on the remote. 480i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion is not working properly yet.


NOTE 2: Due to the somewhat increased HDMI handshake time, some folks prefer to leave Frame Lock OFF and simply switch manually between their two Video Output configurations (1080p/60 and 1080p/24) as needed -- either via the remote control shortcut or by setting up two separate Source definitions which use the two different Video Output setups. This works fine for 1080p/24 input, but if you also want 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion of film-based source content you must use the Frame Lock Auto feature to enable that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Huttizo* /forum/post/18214870
> 
> 
> I see an Anthem D2v on Audiogon at a great deal. A factory sealed one and a fairly new one. Is it safe to buy on audiogon?



Purchasing on Audiogon is as safe as any other situation where you are buying an expensive product from a stranger. Audiogon basically connects you with the seller, they are not the seller themselves. Audiogon has been around a long time and is widely used, so no worries about Audiogon itself, but of course each seller is different. And keep in mind the seller will have his own worries about receiving payment from you. So work it out between yourself and the seller.


Be aware that Anthem's warranty for North America DOES NOT TRANSFER if you purchase a used unit from anyone other than an authorized Anthem dealer. The D2v warranty for North America can be found in the back of the D2v Manual, which you can download from the Anthem web site.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/18214866
> 
> 
> I finally made a choice and purchased an AVM 50 and A5 to go with the S6, C5, and Sub 12. All on order.
> 
> I have a question. My dealer highly recommends that I purchase a surge protector and filter that runs from $500 to $1500. Are you folks running one with your Anthem systems?
> 
> Thanks.



I run my D2v plugged into an APC Battery Backup which also happens to be a surge protector. The APC products are sold for use with computers. The idea is to enable the D2v to stay powered through brief power glitches so that I don't have to wait for it to reboot. I.e., I'm using the battery backup more than the surge protection.


But surge protection is useful if you live in an area prone to lightning. Just don't expect it to work if you get a direct strike.


I do not believe in paying money for power conditioning filters. The power supply in the D2v does what's needed for power conditioning.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18214813
> 
> 
> Here is a clever and accurate way to set the phase and polarity of your sub. Get a test disc that can play a signal at or near your crossover frequency (mine's 80Hz). Disable all speakers except the front speaker nearest the sub. Reverse the polarity of that front speaker and play the test sound. Now position yourself in between the the front speaker and the sub and find the polarity and phase that produces a sharp null. It's a lot easier to find the null than peaking the sound (with the front at it's correct polarity).
> 
> 
> When I did this, it made a huge difference in my system, especially playing music.



Good tip! I haven't tried this, but it may also work to simply switch the sub Polarity setting in the Anthem and then adjusting Phase for the null. If Phase and Polarity are independent in the Anthem, and I believe they are, then this will be the correct Phase once you return Polarity back to its normal position.


Since Polarity operates across the complete range of bass frequencies whereas Phase operates near the crossovers only, you should try this with BOTH Polarities. You will then have a Phase candidate for each Polarity. Compare those two and pick the combo that works best.


Proper Phase is also a function of the distance settings. If your sub and the nearby speaker are equidistant from your center seating then their distance settings will be the same and you will get good results doing the test while listening in between them. If they are NOT equidistant, then positioning yourself in between them will be wrong because of the different distance delays. You can either do the test from your normal listening position, or you can temporarily set the sub and that speaker to the same distance setting (and distance will do so long as they are the same) and do the test positioned in between them. Then restore the correct distance settings.


Now, don't get too concerned about getting this Phase precisely right. A wide range of nearby phase settings will work just as well. And this is good because that main speaker you are using for the test is only standing in as a surrogate for ALL your main speakers. I.e., you can't get phase correct for ALL your speakers simultaneously because their relative distance from the sub is different. Typically folks use the LF speaker as the surrogate for all their main speakers.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Hi guys,


Does anyone have any idea why I am unable to achieve a noise level of 75dB on my RS meter even when the Setup is set at +0dB (max)? At that setting, I can only measure 73dB, resulting in a 71dB level on my graphs. Thanks.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18216001
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any idea why I am unable to achieve a noise level of 75dB on my RS meter even when the Setup is set at +0dB (max)? At that setting, I can only measure 73dB, resulting in a 71dB level on my graphs. Thanks.
> 
> 
> Ben



0dB is not the maximum for the Setup menu volume trims. If you are being limited to 0dB then you have some other setting which is limiting the range -- i.e., some other speaker volume setting is pushing things to the limit.


Reset all the temporary volume settings (procedure in one of my posts just a few posts back). Then zero all the lines in Setup > Speaker Calibration, then try again to set the test level with your SPL meter. After you set the test level, adjust the volume knob in your sub (leaving its volume trim at 0dB), then try again with a new ARC Measurement pass.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

I use on on all my gear. I would rather the surge protector go than the Anthem. I tried sound/picture with/wo the surge protector and could not tell a difference. Just extra protection in my mind











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18215036
> 
> 
> I think Anthem even discourages the use of such surge protectors as they have ample of protection already.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Haroon Malik* /forum/post/16862224
> 
> 
> This is perhaps one of the first and definitely the most detailed review of the *D2v* and *P5* to date with a host of screenshots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://translate.google.com/translat...istory_state0=
> 
> 
> The translation is not so bad. One can understand what is being said clearly. Enjoy the read. I don't know if it was posted here before.



Interesting ARC plots and results for what is supposedly a test setup. Hardly any room gain (1.03) and it almost seems to be ignoring any of the LF, RF & surround response below 100Hz. I would hardly think they are getting the best out fo the system with this ARC correction.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18216079
> 
> 
> 0dB is not the maximum for the Setup menu volume trims. If you are being limited to 0dB then you have some other setting which is limiting the range -- i.e., some other speaker volume setting is pushing things to the limit.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob, for enlightening me! I had forgotten that years ago, I had set the Setup/Volumes/MainMaxVolume to +0dB. Sorry for wasting your time.










Ben


----------



## barrygordon

I use whole House surge protectors at the breaker panels of my house. They have been in place for 10 years and are still functioning properly (Leviton makes them). The panels them selves handle 150 amps (max capacity) and there are two of them


In the theater there is a 1.5 VA UPS from APS. All of the AV gear except the audio power amp and Subwoofer (amp) runs through this device. This includes the Anthem 50v and the projector. During use I run at about 40% of maximum load, when Idle it runs about 155 watts total. The DVR's are always on and all of the other connected gear draws vampire power.


I live in central FL and it is very common for short duration glitches (1-2 seconds) especially during thunderstorms which are prevelant.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/18214866
> 
> 
> I finally made a choice and purchased an AVM 50 and A5 to go with the S6, C5, and Sub 12. All on order.
> 
> I have a question. My dealer highly recommends that I purchase a surge protector and filter that runs from $500 to $1500. Are you folks running one with your Anthem systems?
> 
> Thanks.



Greetings,


I have my Anthem connected to an APC S15 which is a line conditioner/surge protector/voltage regulator with battery backup.



Regards,


----------



## jamulian

Thanks.

I'll look into the apc s15 and whole house systems.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Aright guys, I finally bit the bullet today after struggling with some weird issues with my original D2 and got a store demo D2V as a trade-up. The dealer will take my old D2 and send it off to Anthem for a reconditioning and then resell it. I couldn't pass up the deal I got. It will make someone happy, but I've moved onward and upward! I took delivery of my original D2 in February 2006, making it one of the very first D2's ever delivered to the US. I ran sub-1.0 code for a long time, that's how old it is! Ahh yes, the good old days....


So, Bob and Co., knowing that I'm not afraid of beta software, but I enjoy a mostly stable system as much as the next guy, and seeing 2.08 on the Anthem website, what version do you recommend these days and why? I have access to all the beta software of course from days of old.


I also decided on a whim to pick up the Anthem BluRay player, given the reasonable cost and no need for onboard DAC's at all. Seemed to load quickly which is what is killing me with my early Pioneer 94HD. All in all, I look forward to a kinder, gentler Home Theater now.


So Bob, can I get those cool smily face thingies that I never got originally? It's like Christmas over here  Now I've got to take apart my entire system to replace the D2...the work begins. Any advice from you guys is appreciated. Cheers!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18218501
> 
> 
> Aright guys, I finally bit the bullet today after struggling with some weird issues with my original D2 and got a store demo D2V as a trade-up. The dealer will take my old D2 and send it off to Anthem for a reconditioning and then resell it. I couldn't pass up the deal I got. It will make someone happy, but I've moved onward and upward! I took delivery of my original D2 in February 2006, making it one of the very first D2's ever delivered to the US. I ran sub-1.0 code for a long time, that's how old it is! Ahh yes, the good old days....
> 
> 
> So, Bob and Co., knowing that I'm not afraid of beta software, but I enjoy a mostly stable system as much as the next guy, and seeing 2.08 on the Anthem website, what version do you recommend these days and why? I have access to all the beta software of course from days of old.
> 
> 
> I also decided on a whim to pick up the Anthem BluRay player, given the reasonable cost and no need for onboard DAC's at all. Seemed to load quickly which is what is killing me with my early Pioneer 94HD. All in all, I look forward to a kinder, gentler Home Theater now.
> 
> 
> So Bob, can I get those cool smily face thingies that I never got originally? It's like Christmas over here  Now I've got to take apart my entire system to replace the D2...the work begins. Any advice from you guys is appreciated. Cheers!



The current "official" firmware is V2.08. The current "test" firmware is V2.08e -- which basically includes the first cut at the Dolby Volume stuff. At the moment, I recommend you stick with "official" V2.08. You can turn off the Dolby Volume stuff in V2.08e of course, but it also comes with some factory installed bugs that screw up the speaker calibration test tones, which you will probably want to have working for a new setup.


As for bouncing happy head guys, I dunno. You haven't actually powered on your new D2v yet, right? Giddy anticipation is all well and good, but jumping up and down in glee requires the real thing.









--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18218585
> 
> 
> The current "official" firmware is V2.08. The current "test" firmware is V2.08e -- which basically includes the first cut at the Dolby Volume stuff. At the moment, I recommend you stick with "official" V2.08. You can turn off the Dolby Volume stuff in V2.08e of course, but it also comes with some factory installed bugs that screw up the speaker calibration test tones, which you will probably want to have working for a new setup.
> 
> 
> As for bouncing happy head guys, I dunno. You haven't actually powered on your new D2v yet, right? Giddy anticipation is all well and good, but jumping up and down in glee requires the real thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, 2.08 it is for now then. As for HDMI handshaking, I have a Tivo Series3 that I like to keep in "Native" mode, so it can output native resolution to the anthem. Would you still recommend only Component and Optical for the Tivo S3, or can the D2V switch much faster than the old D2 running 1.33 used to? I can try it both ways but I'm curious what you've found/heard with that component lately. Thanks again, I'll let you know when I get her powered on and doing her thing! I'll be anticipating some bouncing faces soon. Thank you sir, the fun begins!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18218671
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, 2.08 it is for now then. As for HDMI handshaking, I have a Tivo Series3 that I like to keep in "Native" mode, so it can output native resolution to the anthem. Would you still recommend only Component and Optical for the Tivo S3, or can the D2V switch much faster than the old D2 running 1.33 used to? I can try it both ways but I'm curious what you've found/heard with that component lately. Thanks again, I'll let you know when I get her powered on and doing her thing! I'll be anticipating some bouncing faces soon. Thank you sir, the fun begins!



Component video input into the D2v is noticeably superior to that in the D2. It turns out, even S-video input is improved.


But with the HDMI changes in the D2v (some specifically targeting "native" resolution set top boxes), you might as well try Tivo native HDMI input into it and see for yourself. Keep in mind that the handshakes triggered by HDMI input are end to end even though the display output isn't changing, so the handshake speed will also depend on how fast your display responds.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

I just got the AIX Calibration disc to use with my D2v and new Oppo 80 which are connected by HDMI. I ran thru the intro and tutorial and then started the Channel Id test for 7.1. They ran fine for 7.1 Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA, but when it can time for anything LPCM it didn't work right. I just got 'sound bursts' out of LF and RF. The same held true for the rest of the tests which all happen to be in LPCM.


So what am I doing wrong? Do I have something setup wrong in the Oppo or D2v or both? Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18219703
> 
> 
> I just got the AIX Calibration disc to use with my D2v and new Oppo 80 which are connected by HDMI. I ran thru the intro and tutorial and then started the Channel Id test for 7.1. They ran fine for 7.1 Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA, but when it can time for anything LPCM it didn't work right. I just got 'sound bursts' out of LF and RF. The same held true for the rest of the tests which all happen to be in LPCM.
> 
> 
> So what am I doing wrong? Do I have something setup wrong in the Oppo or D2v or both? Thanks.



What firmware are you using in the D2v? It should be V2.08. Earlier firmware has some issues when only one channel at a time is active for LPCM input.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Bob,


My Fronts are full range speakers, but ARC has set the cutoff at 60Hz. For calculation purposes, if I simply tick the "Full range X-Over" box, does it mean the speakers will operate full range? Or do I have to reduce the cutoff to 25Hz also?


Ben


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18221157
> 
> 
> What firmware are you using in the D2v? It should be V2.08. Earlier firmware has some issues when only one channel at a time is active for LPCM input.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I'm on v2.04. You think that's the problem? I've been thinking about doing an update, but I keep putting it off 'cuz it scares me each time I do it. I just worry that I'll screw something up, mainly because I don't do it often enough to remember how. However, if that will solve the AIX issue, I'll pull out your directions which I have on file, and 'get back on the horse'. I also needed to rerun ARC, so I guess now is the time.

Thanks


----------



## obie_fl

Many if not most "Full Range" speakers can still benefit by crossing over to a decent sub. I have powered 8" woofers in my mains and ARC also crosses them at 60hz. 60hz isn't a brickwall either you will still get energy below 60hz in the mains. The point is a decent sub can usually do things better in that frequency range and takes some of the demand off the mains so it can have more control over the mid bass where so much of the sound resides. The key is properly integrating the sub with your mains.


Benleeys - I'm assuming ARC is also crossing the mains over at 60 or higher, so I'm not sure why you would want to calculate corrections below that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18221737
> 
> 
> Bob, I'm on v2.04. You think that's the problem? I've been thinking about doing an update, but I keep putting it off 'cuz it scares me each time I do it. I just worry that I'll screw something up, mainly because I don't do it often enough to remember how. However, if that will solve the AIX issue, I'll pull out your directions which I have on file, and 'get back on the horse'. I also needed to rerun ARC, so I guess now is the time.
> 
> Thanks



Yes, that's the problem. Move to "official" V2.08.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18221327
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> My Fronts are full range speakers, but ARC has set the cutoff at 60Hz. For calculation purposes, if I simply tick the "Full range X-Over" box, does it mean the speakers will operate full range? Or do I have to reduce the cutoff to 25Hz also?
> 
> 
> Ben



If you've got a sub, ARC will use it to support the bottom end of even full range speakers, since very few "full range" speakers can go low AT HIGH VOLUME.


If you want to force ARC to treat the speakers as truly full range then set the "Full Range" check box in Targets and re-Calculate. This will turn off bass steering to the sub from them (all LF/RF bass will go to LF/RF), however ARC will still apply a roll-off to LF/RF. To fix that, you also need to lower the cutoff for LF/RF to 25Hz. Note that LF/RF will still roll off in the subsonics below that (and any such LF/RF subsonic content will be lost since you have turned off bass steering).


An alternative to avoid that loss is to leave the Full Range box *NOT* checked for LF/RF and just lower the cutoff for LF/RF. This will use LF/RF down to 25Hz, but the subsonics will still be steered to your sub because bass steering is still in effect below that.


If you like how that seems to be working, I suggest you try raising the cutoff above 25Hz -- perhaps 30 or 35Hz, as again, a decent subwoofer will likely do a better job with the subsonics than most "full range" main speakers. This is true if your sub does not itself roll off sharply below 30 Hz.


NOTE: Don't fiddle with the sub settings as you may need higher frequency support from the sub for your surrounds. I.e., there's no problem having a low crossover for LF/RF and a higher one for the sub. LFE content to the sub is handled specially as well.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18222454
> 
> 
> ............An alternative to avoid that loss is to leave the Full Range box *NOT* checked for LF/RF and just lower the cutoff for LF/RF. This will use LF/RF down to 25Hz, but the subsonics will still be steered to your sub because bass steering is still in effect below that..........
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I wish Anthem had explained all these finer points of implementing ARC in their manual. We are indeed fortunate to have you around to do so.


My Fronts are rated 24Hz-23kHz (-3dB) with their self-powered twin-cone woofers, so they are good full-range units. My sub is rated 18Hz-120Hz (-3dB). So as not to lose the last 6Hz, I shall do as you suggest above. My idea is to ease up on the the sub's load since it is already carrying the bass from the Center, Surrounds and the LFE signals.


My sincere thanks for your reply.


Ben


----------



## tngiloy

I think this problem has come up before, but I must not be using the right 'search' words. Please forgive me if you have answered this before.


I tried to get into the set-up menu on my D2 (v1.33) today and had a blank screen on my display. Just black- not blue or magenta.

The menu was visible on the D2 front panel display.


I tried a couple 'power cycles' on/off, even unplugged the power cord from the rear.

I reset to 'factory default' settings. Still no menu on the monitor.

Reloaded 'user settings'. Still nada.


The video plays fine from my Oppo and Dish dvr. Its just the set-up menu that won't show on my monitor.


I seem to remember it has something to do with the s-vid in the D2, but I couldn't remember what the fix is.


Thanks for your help.


Tom


----------



## Texas steve

Dont know about the D2 (I have D2v) but there will be no screen info on HDMI2 (only HDMI1). You can also check the Svideo out



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/18227227
> 
> 
> I think this problem has come up before, but I must not be using the right 'search' words. Please forgive me if you have answered this before.
> 
> 
> I tried to get into the set-up menu on my D2 (v1.33) today and had a blank screen on my display. Just black- not blue or magenta.
> 
> The menu was visible on the D2 front panel display.
> 
> 
> I tried a couple 'power cycles' on/off, even unplugged the power cord from the rear.
> 
> I reset to 'factory default' settings. Still no menu on the monitor.
> 
> Reloaded 'user settings'. Still nada.
> 
> 
> The video plays fine from my Oppo and Dish dvr. Its just the set-up menu that won't show on my monitor.
> 
> 
> I seem to remember it has something to do with the s-vid in the D2, but I couldn't remember what the fix is.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> 
> Tom


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18227253
> 
> 
> Dont know about the D2 (I have D2v) but there will be no screen info on HDMI2 (only HDMI1). You can also check the Svideo out



Steve,

The D2 only has one HDMI out.

I think it has something to do with the internal s-vid processing in the D2, but I can't remember if there is an easy fix to try that I haven't tried yet.

BTW the OSD (like if I change vol) shows up fine.

Its just the set-up menu.


Tom


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18227253
> 
> 
> Dont know about the D2 (I have D2v) but there will be no screen info on HDMI2 (only HDMI1). You can also check the Svideo out



Your best bet is to reload 1.33. The Setup Menu screen has been a constant annoyance on both the D2 and D2v. Anthem either cannot get it right or has not made it a priority to address.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18227434
> 
> 
> Your best bet is to reload 1.33. The Setup Menu screen has been a constant annoyance on both the D2 and D2v. Anthem either cannot get it right or has not made it a priority to address.



John,

Unfortunately, I think your right. Reloading the firmware is a minor PITA. I was hoping for an easier fix, if possible.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/18227515
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> Unfortunately, I think your right. Reloading the firmware is a minor PITA. I was hoping for an easier fix, if possible.
> 
> Tom



Try a power cycle that also includes cycling the back panel power switch.


If that doesn't fix it, then the only known fix is to reload the firmware. Evidently something is getting corrupted related to the internally generated S-video source which produces the Setup menu display, and the firmware re-install fixes that.


If your D2 is of the right flavor, an alternative might be to go to the "test" V1.47f firmware. There's no related fix listed in the change notes, but for a problem like this, just the moving around of things in the new firmware build might make a difference. I don't recall whether we've had any problem reports on this from the folks here using "test" V1.47f.


Your D2 is OK for V1.47f if EITHER you can see that your video board (top board just under the top vents) is colored red OR you can see that your power supply does NOT have the big toroidal (donut shaped) transformer. If your video board is gray or green AND you have the toroidal transformer, then your D2 might still be OK for V1.47f, but there's no easy way for you to tell. So best play it safe and stick with V1.33.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18227612
> 
> 
> Try a power cycle that also includes cycling the back panel power switch.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't fix it, then the only known fix is to reload the firmware. Evidently something is getting corrupted related to the internally generated S-video source which produces the Setup menu display, and the firmware re-install fixes that.
> 
> 
> If your D2 is of the right flavor, an alternative might be to go to the "test" V1.47f firmware. There's no related fix listed in the change notes, but for a problem like this, just the moving around of things in the new firmware build might make a difference. I don't recall whether we've had any problem reports on this from the folks here using "test" V1.47f.
> 
> 
> Your D2 is OK for V1.47f if EITHER you can see that your video board (top board just under the top vents) is colored red OR you can see that your power supply does NOT have the big toroidal (donut shaped) transformer. If your video board is gray or green AND you have the toroidal transformer, then your D2 might still be OK for V1.47f, but there's no easy way for you to tell. So best play it safe and stick with V1.33.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I had already tried the power cycle/power-switch and that didn't work.

I have access to the 'test' page and have the newer red video board, but since I have had no problems with v1.33, that's what I reloaded.

The v1.33 reload fixed the problem.

Just for fun I reloaded ARC.

It seems to be working fine.


Thanks for the help John and Bob.


Tom


BTW- My forum name is showing up in orange in the left margin on my posts. Is this something new or have I just not noticed it before?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/18227969
> 
> 
> BTW- My forum name is showing up in orange in the left margin on my posts. Is this something new or have I just not noticed it before?



Your forum name there is a browser link. You probably clicked on it (or recently visited your profile, which it links to, some other way) and your browser changes link color to orange to show recently visited links.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

I am considering buying a small portable computer (laptop/netbook) to use with my D2 and stereo system. Uses include: running ARC, download/play high resolution files, digitizing LPs.

If possible, I do not want to spend thousands of dollars on a full-fledge top-of-the-line laptop. Any suggestions? Would a netbook-type computer run ARC software? Thanks for your help!


----------



## barrygordon

There is no reason why a netbook running any version of windows (I favor the ASUS line which started it all) would not run ARC. The issue will be RS232 ports. Check eBay for a USB to RS232 converter. I favor those by Edgeport as they work perfectly and handle up to 8 ports. can be had used for about $30-$50. Map directly to Com ports. I also have used on my desktop the cables by FTDI which are USB at one end and RS232 at the other. Also work perfectly with a driver that maps the cable to any com port. The cable is active with the electronics built into the USB connector. just google FTDI about $25 for a single cable terminated any way you want.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/18228083
> 
> 
> I am considering buying a small portable computer (laptop/netbook) to use with my D2 and stereo system. Uses include: running ARC, download/play high resolution files, digitizing LPs.
> 
> If possible, I do not want to spend thousands of dollars on a full-fledge top-of-the-line laptop. Any suggestions? Would a netbook-type computer run ARC software? Thanks for your help!



For the Anthem stuff, you need a USB socket for the ARC mic, and you also need a serial port -- often done using a USB/Serial adapter plugged into a *SECOND* USB socket (the Keyspan USA-19HS is recommended and inexpensive). PC-cards that provide a serial port also work. The computer must run Windows XP, Vista, or 7. Make sure it is possible to keep the computer from going to sleep or into screen saver during firmware installs or the ARC stuff. Often you can do this by just moving the mouse cursor periodically. A faster computer will do the ARC calculation faster, but it doesn't take that long even on a slow computer, so no worries. You do not need anything fancy in the way of graphics or audio for the ARC stuff or for firmware installs.


You can use an Intel-based Mac computer for this as well. However, you will need to run Windows on it. One way to do this is to use Boot Camp and a retail copy of Windows.


A wireless mouse is helpful as it makes it easier to stand away from the computer when starting the ARC test sweep tones. (It may also free up a USB socket.)

--Bob


----------



## pjpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/18228083
> 
> 
> I am considering buying a small portable computer (laptop/netbook) to use with my D2 and stereo system. Uses include: running ARC, download/play high resolution files, digitizing LPs.
> 
> If possible, I do not want to spend thousands of dollars on a full-fledge top-of-the-line laptop. Any suggestions? Would a netbook-type computer run ARC software? Thanks for your help!



This Toshiba seems to have a built in serial port and may meet your other needs

http://www.toshibadirect.com/td/b2c/pdet.to?poid=464433 


I bought a Toshiba Satellite Pro S300-EZ1513 about a year ago which also has a built in serial port. I believe it's discontinued but may still be around. It came with Vista installed but included an XP disc


----------



## benleeys

Bob,


Before calculating my measurements, I happened to notice that the Room Gain figure had its Force box checked. Out of curiosity, I unchecked it and exited the target window. Upon returning to it after calculations were completed, I noticed that the Gain figure had changed to a slightly lower value. The original value is now lost. Looks to me like ARC changed its mind about the original measured gain!


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18228631
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Before calculating my measurements, I happened to notice that the Room Gain figure had its Force box checked. Out of curiosity, I unchecked it and exited the target window. Upon returning to it after calculations were completed, I noticed that the Gain figure had changed to a slightly lower value. The original value is now lost. Looks to me like ARC changed its mind about the original measured gain!
> 
> 
> Ben



You can do an Auto Detect in the Targets window to restore all the original values ARC derived from your Measurements.


I don't know what ARC does differently with Force turned off. Quite possibly it adjusts Room Gain to try to achieve a cleaner solution (i.e., without trying to maintain the value it Measured for the room, or any value you might have entered on your own) and reports the adjusted value. In the past Nick has told me it doesn't do that, but perhaps it does now.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

I *finally got around to rewiring my HT. All of my equipment was served by a single 15a circuit with 14-2 wire. (lights and other outlets are on their own circuits). I ran 2 12-2 runs which are on 20a circuits. These will serve my D2v, A2 and A5 amps, HD-Tivo, Vudu, 2 Dvds, 1 CD and 1LD.


After I finished all the wiring, I started to plug things back in. I have 2 Price Wheeler "Brick Walls" (surge protectors) into which I plug the equipment and then plug those into the new outlets. Well, I noticed that the Brick Walls are only 15 amps!! So, after all my rewiring, are the 15amp Brick Walls negating my work? What do you folks recommend? Thanks


I bought the BW's about 9 years ago and Price Wheeler still makes them.*


----------



## Texas steve

They will work, it just means they can only supply up to 15Amp and your wire is capable of 20. So yes you are "clamping" your AC to 15



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18230345
> 
> 
> I *finally got around to rewiring my HT. All of my equipment was served by a single 15a circuit with 14-2 wire. (lights and other outlets are on their own circuits). I ran 2 12-2 runs which are on 20a circuits. These will serve my D2v, A2 and A5 amps, HD-Tivo, Vudu, 2 Dvds, 1 CD and 1LD.
> 
> 
> After I finished all the wiring, I started to plug things back in. I have 2 Price Wheeler "Brick Walls" (surge protectors) into which I plug the equipment and then plug those into the new outlets. Well, I noticed that the Brick Walls are only 15 amps!! So, after all my rewiring, are the 15amp Brick Walls negating my work? What do you folks recommend? Thanks
> 
> 
> I bought the BW's about 9 years ago and Price Wheeler still makes them.
> *


*

*


----------



## barrygordon

There are two things to consider


1) The only thing that really clamps an AC power circuit is what the breaker trips at. I assume your breakers are 20 amp ratings.


2) The second thing to consider is how much power can the circuit deliver to the load. As you draw more current down the wire, the loss in the wire increases as the square of the current times the resistance of the total length of the wire. Based on the gauge of the wire (assumimg 12) you can look up the resistance per foot and roughly estimate the loss. It will probably be very small, much less than what happens in a typical utility brownout.


The next point to consider is how much power do you need?. Last night I happen to do some measurements in my theater since I installed a backup UPS and wanted to know my margins and run times on battery. The UPS I have can supply 865 watts. And does let me see the exact load at all times in watts. At idle with only vampire power being utilized (all unit are plugged in but in standby mode except for the DVR's which are fully powered on) I draw 155 watts thats it, 155 watts total. Roughly the same as a 150 watt light bulb!


With everything tuned on, the system draws 501 watts. The only thing not connected through the UPS is the Audio Power amplifier, the Subwoofer the subwoofer equalizer, the whole house (zone 2) amplifier, and some equipment that is only used with the zone 2 amplifier.


For reference 20 amps at 120 vols is 2400 volt-amps, 15 amps at 120 volts is 1800 volt-amps. Assuming an 80% average power factor which is low, the capacity of the 20 amp circuit is 1920 watts, and the 15 amp circuit is 1440 watts. So my total draw of 501 watts is not even taxing the supply which is a 20 amp 12 gauge wire circuit. All other equipment is on a second 20 Amp circuit.


If you want to account for the line drop you just need to measure the voltage in the theater at full load (maximum current draw) and revise the figures. IMHO you can just neglect it


Okay now the Key point. What is in the Theater that is running off the UPS.

JVC RS1 Projector

Samsung DVR's (2)

Anthem 50v

Small PC with RS232 and IR adapters

DVDO Edge Scaler (no inputs, used as a test pattern generator)

Sony CX7000ES BR Mega Changer

Sony CX777ES DVD Mega Changer

Sony PS2

Nintendo Wii

Logitech Transporter

Polk XM Radio Tuner

KDS 4x1 Component switch


In the theater but not on the UPS:

Logitech Slim Receiver

Outlaw 7 Channel 200 watts/channel power amp

Velodyne 12 Powered Sub Woofer

Velodyne SMS-1 Sub Control system

25watt x 6 stereo channels audio amp for household audio distribution


Bottom line - Measure your loads, then do the math. You may be pleasantly surprised. I was.


Hope this helps


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18229311
> 
> 
> You can do an Auto Detect in the Targets window to restore all the original values ARC derived from your Measurements.
> 
> 
> I don't know what ARC does differently with Force turned off. Quite possibly it adjusts Room Gain to try to achieve a cleaner solution (i.e., without trying to maintain the value it Measured for the room, or any value you might have entered on your own) and reports the adjusted value. In the past Nick has told me it doesn't do that, but perhaps it does now.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. So the program is designed, by default, to Force its measured gain through (against its better judgement?). Interesting.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18232895
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob. So the program is designed, by default, to Force its measured gain through (against its better judgement?). Interesting.
> 
> 
> Ben



No. ARC is designed by default to maintain the Room Gain it found inherent in the room when it did the Measurements. That's the whole idea. Room Gain is a "desirable" room response characteristic which is good to preserve even as you are attempting to eliminate the other room characteristics.


Each constraint you put on the solution makes it tougher to get a clean solution with no residual errors. If you REMOVE a constraint then you can get a cleaner solution, but of course you no longer meet the goal behind that constraint in the first place.


You'll need to decide on your own how much you value ARCs efforts to preserve the Room Gain it measured. Of course if you have no significant residual errors when using the Measured Room Gain, and if you are comfortable that ARC didn't get confused by unusual Measured curves from your speakers (i.e., the Room Gain it found looks reasonable) then there's no decision to make.


Note that if you CHANGE the Room Gain value, you'll need to leave the Force box checked for that change to take effect next time you Calculate.


Changing the Room Gain by small amounts up or down from what ARC found (e.g., say +/- 0.5dB) is likely something that you will not be able to hear. So playing around a bit like that to see if you can get a cleaner solution is safe.


If you think ARC has gotten confused in its determination of Room Gain, then go ahead and make larger changes to help it. This can happen, for example, if there is a big dip in your speakers' Measured response at and just above the crossovers for example. ARC may see a negative Room Gain in that case (which makes no sense physically), so it will use a 0dB or very small Room Gain instead. Typical "good" Room Gain values will be around 2-4dB. Rooms with extensive acoustic treatments will tend to have a smaller inherent Room Gain.

--Bob


----------



## neekos

does the AVM 40 or 50 have the option to upgrade the boards to decode DTS Master and Dolby True HD ? If so, what is the charge ?


I called Antherm a few times and can't get a live person on the line.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neekos* /forum/post/18235058
> 
> 
> does the AVM 40 or 50 have the option to upgrade the boards to decode DTS Master and Dolby True HD ? If so, what is the charge ?
> 
> 
> I called Antherm a few times and can't get a live person on the line.



They do not. However, you may be able to work a trade-in with your dealer to move to an AVM 50v or D2v which can do that.


Understand that if your player does the decoding of those audio formats to high bandwidth, multi-channel LPCM then you are good to go. You don't need decoding in the Anthem. For example, the PS3 and the Oppo Blu-Ray players can do that.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18234181
> 
> 
> No. ARC is designed by default to maintain the Room Gain it found inherent in the room when it did the Measurements. ....... Note that if you CHANGE the Room Gain value, you'll need to leave the Force box checked for that change to take effect next time you Calculate.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


No, I did not enter a new Gain value. Seems my ARC measurements came up with 2 different values on its own. If the Force box remains checked, it uses the higher value (3.945749), otherwise it uses the other (3.736867) to calculate, all by itself. This is only for Movie; for Music, the values remained the same, Force box checked or not. That's what got me curious.


Anyway, these are my measurements. Appears I have a room problem at around 150Hz which is common to all the speakers. So far, I can't imagine the cause of it.


Ben


----------



## neekos




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18235124
> 
> 
> They do not. However, you may be able to work a trade-in with your dealer to move to an AVM 50v or D2v which can do that.
> 
> 
> Understand that if your player does the decoding of those audio formats to high bandwidth, multi-channel LPCM then you are good to go. You don't need decoding in the Anthem. For example, the PS3 and the Oppo Blu-Ray players can do that.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the feedback Bob. I know that sources can decode the new formats, but I prefer the simplicity of the fewer cables and having the pre/pro handle all the major functions.


Thanks again.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neekos* /forum/post/18236748
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback Bob. I know that sources can decode the new formats, but I prefer the simplicity of the fewer cables and having the pre/pro handle all the major functions.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



You wouldn't have to use more cables. You can still have LPCM sent to the D2/AVM50 via HDMI. This is the method I am using from my PS3 and the same would be true of Oppo for instance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As Shrike645 says, multi-channel LPCM is still a digital audio format. It goes from the player to the Anthem over the single HDMI cable you are already using for video.


You only need more cables if you have the player do the ADDITIONAL step of converting the digital, high bandwidth, multi-channel LPCM audio to multi-channel ANALOG audio. Then you would have to wire up the RCA cables for the analog audio No need for that with your Anthem.


I understand that you may want the Anthem to do the first step as well -- decoding the TrueHD or DTS-HD packed audio formats to LPCM -- but that will cost some money, so you've got a decision to make.

--Bob


----------



## Orup70

I've finally had the courage to order an Anthem D2V/P5. But maybe my wife will consider it to be some other characteristic than courage when I tell her about the good news?










Anyway, looking forward to the delivery in a few weeks time, I'm now trying to buy an SPL meter for the ARC process. But I have a question regarding the test tone level: is it measured in dBA or dBC? The reason I ask is because the best candidates I have for reasonable cheap SPL meters in Sweden is one that only measures in dBA and the other one only measures in dBC.


So which one do I choose?


/ Påhl


----------



## neekos




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18237006
> 
> 
> As Shrike645 says, multi-channel LPCM is still a digital audio format. It goes from the player to the Anthem over the single HDMI cable you are already using for video.
> 
> 
> You only need more cables if you have the player do the ADDITIONAL step of converting the digital, high bandwidth, multi-channel LPCM audio to multi-channel ANALOG audio. Then you would have to wire up the RCA cables for the analog audio No need for that with your Anthem.
> 
> 
> I understand that you may want the Anthem to do the first step as well -- decoding the TrueHD or DTS-HD packed audio formats to LPCM -- but that will cost some money, so you've got a decision to make.
> 
> --Bob



I'm a firm believer in having the conversion done in one spot rather than several. The source sending the bitstream signal to the pre/pro to get decoded and output to the the analog section is ideal..for me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Orup70* /forum/post/18237329
> 
> 
> I've finally had the courage to order an Anthem D2V/P5. But maybe my wife will consider it to be some other characteristic than courage when I tell her about the good news?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, looking forward to the delivery in a few weeks time, I'm now trying to buy an SPL meter for the ARC process. But I have a question regarding the test tone level: is it measured in dBA or dBC? The reason I ask is because the best candidates I have for reasonable cheap SPL meters in Sweden is one that only measures in dBA and the other one only measures in dBC.
> 
> 
> So which one do I choose?
> 
> 
> / Påhl



"C" weighting. You'll also want "slow" response.


Most people use this particular meter from Radio Shack. You certainly don't need anything fancier than this one for home theater setup:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103667 


See if you can find this, or its like, in Sweden.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neekos* /forum/post/18237392
> 
> 
> I'm a firm believer in having the conversion done in one spot rather than several. The source sending the bitstream signal to the pre/pro to get decoded and output to the the analog section is ideal..for me.



I understand. Well there are other good reasons to step up to an AVM 50v or D2v as well, so you don't have to account for the price difference solely on the basis of bitstream decoding.

--Bob


----------



## leeshanok

I'm curious to know what brand & model subs the Anthem community have in their HT/Music setup. I ran ARC measurement on system, which consists of D2, Paradigm Reference Studio 100, Def Tech surround, and Def Tech Reference sub (14"), but sub measurement shows steep drop below 25/30hz. I noticed some of the charts on this forum has flat/stable response down to 20hz and wondering whether I should get a bigger sub or perhaps play around with sub positioning to get better response. My sub is already 6 inches away from front wall (same wall as LF/RF speakers) and 4 feet from side wall. Not sure if moving it around will do any good.


----------



## Texas steve

Tomorrow I get delevered a Paradigm Sub 25. I put in a dedicated 240VAC line and Im ready to PBK it and ARC it. Ive had a Muse 18 which was on Stereophiles top list about 8 years ago.












> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leeshanok* /forum/post/18238557
> 
> 
> I'm curious to know what brand & model subs the Anthem community have in their HT/Music setup. I ran ARC measurement on system, which consists of D2, Paradigm Reference Studio 100, Def Tech surround, and Def Tech Reference sub (14"), but sub measurement shows steep drop below 25/30hz. I noticed some of the charts on this forum has flat/stable response down to 20hz and wondering whether I should get a bigger sub or perhaps play around with sub positioning to get better response. My sub is already 6 inches away from front wall (same wall as LF/RF speakers) and 4 feet from side wall. Not sure if moving it around will do any good.


----------



## leeshanok




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18238682
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I get delevered a Paradigm Sub 25. I put in a dedicated 240VAC line and Im ready to PBK it and ARC it. Ive had a Muse 18 which was on Stereophiles top list about 8 years ago.



Nice... after you ARC it, post the sub chart. I'd like to see it.


----------



## Texas steve

Yea, I want to see it too!!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leeshanok* /forum/post/18238785
> 
> 
> Nice... after you ARC it, post the sub chart. I'd like to see it.


----------



## osofast240sx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18238933
> 
> 
> Yea, I want to see it too!!!



did you get it today?


----------



## Warpdrv

Post both charts of the PBK and the ARC... If possible steve...


Congrats on the Sub 25, should be a nice one for ya...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leeshanok* /forum/post/18238557
> 
> 
> I'm curious to know what brand & model subs the Anthem community have in their HT/Music setup. I ran ARC measurement on system, which consists of D2, Paradigm Reference Studio 100, Def Tech surround, and Def Tech Reference sub (14"), but sub measurement shows steep drop below 25/30hz. I noticed some of the charts on this forum has flat/stable response down to 20hz and wondering whether I should get a bigger sub or perhaps play around with sub positioning to get better response. My sub is already 6 inches away from front wall (same wall as LF/RF speakers) and 4 feet from side wall. Not sure if moving it around will do any good.



I have a Paradigm Servo 15 v2. As far as positioning I wouldn't assume anything until you try it. I moved mine from the front right corner up towards the seating by 8 ft. and the result was dramatic. With arc you can use a 2.1 config to do measurments and then see the affect without going through all your speakers. Well worth the time. My sub was much more capable of doing the job than I was seeing so I was motivated. Not sure what your sub is capable of. Check post #27058. My chart is there for my new position.

John


----------



## Texas steve

Ok, guys here are the new charts with the Sub 25. I have Salk speakers, the D2v, a BAT6200Amp, and the Oppo83. Im still tweaking as this is my first run. So any input is welcome.


The bass on this is realy tight and will rattle the rafters!! Bob I would value your input as you recall you worked with me on the Muse 18. I forced the room gain to 2.o it was naturally at slightly less than 1.

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* 
Post both charts of the PBK and the ARC... If possible steve...


Congrats on the Sub 25, should be a nice one for ya...









 

room.doc 91.5k . file

 

feb 10 sub25 ARC run.doc 272.5k . file


----------



## slots1

Bob

I remeasured over the last couple of days. Reduced the noise level as you suggested by 7db. Also toed in the thiel 3.7's. The sound does seem better, give me your opinion on the new charts. The sub on the anthem are at set at -8db by arc. Thanks so much.
Attachment 168846 

Attachment 168847 

Attachment 168848


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18244054
> 
> 
> I have a Paradigm Servo 15 v2. As far as positioning I wouldn't assume anything until you try it. I moved mine from the front right corner up towards the seating by 8 ft. and the result was dramatic. With arc you can use a 2.1 config to do measurments and then see the affect without going through all your speakers. Well worth the time. My sub was much more capable of doing the job than I was seeing so I was motivated. Not sure what your sub is capable of. Check post #27058. My chart is there for my new position.
> 
> John



I just can't imagine where your sub is located, can you provide a picture or a diagram?


Alvin


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18244350
> 
> 
> Ok, guys here are the new charts with the Sub 25. I have Salk speakers, the D2v, a BAT6200Amp, and the Oppo83. Im still tweaking as this is my first run. So any input is welcome.
> 
> 
> The bass on this is realy tight and will rattle the rafters!! Bob I would value your input as you recall you worked with me on the Muse 18. I forced the room gain to 2.o it was naturally at slightly less than 1.



Steve,

It looks like you've got the internal crossover still active in the new sub. You are Measuring down 10dB by only 90Hz. Disable that. The Anthem will take care of any necessary crossover.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/18244812
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> I remeasured over the last couple of days. Reduced the noise level as you suggested by 7db. Also toed in the thiel 3.7's. The sound does seem better, give me your opinion on the new charts. The sub on the anthem are at set at -8db by arc. Thanks so much.
> Attachment 168846
> 
> Attachment 168847
> 
> Attachment 168848



Before your next run, lower the volume knob on the sub a bit. That should get the sub volume trim closer to 0dB after the next ARC Upload.


You've got a pretty dramatic room resonance right around 30Hz which is coupling with your speakers in the front of the room. That's handled well by ARC except that the sub has a residual error spike there. Frankly, I'm surprised at how much boost ARC is delivering to your sub across most of the bass frequencies, so this little bit of overshoot is not surprising. Moving the sub a bit further from the closest wall/corner might reduce the Boundary Gain at the lowest frequencies and help with that.


I'm not sure why you are getting weak Measured curves for the sub in the middle bass. If you had more than one sub active I'd suspect that they are not properly set for Phase between them so that they are canceling each other. I'd be happier if ARC didn't have to do so much correction there, so some positioning experiments for the sub might be worth a try, but ARC does think it has corrected all of that, so no rush.


Basically, what you have right now SHOULD sound good.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

bob - Yep your right I checked. Do I need to re-ARC or just cut the crossover? Any comments on the room gain? Thanks



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18245176
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> It looks like you've got the internal crossover still active in the new sub. You are Measuring down 10dB by only 90Hz. Disable that. The Anthem will take care of any necessary crossover.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18245287
> 
> 
> bob - Yep your right I checked. Do I need to re-ARC or just cut the crossover? Any comments on the room gain? Thanks



You need to re-ARC as you have changed the sub's output.


I'm not quite sure why ARC is finding a small Room Gain. It's probably a combination of factors. But boosting it a bit as you've done should be fine.

--Bob


----------



## blitz1856

Hi. I've read a lot of this thread but not all of it, and I didn't see this particular issue discussed.....


I recently installed a D2v and thought it should be fairly straightforward after replacing a D1... not so due to multiple HDMI handshake problems and a more troubling problem that I initially thought was part of my HDMI problems but now I don't think so.


1st I couldn't get an HDMI picture through the D2v from my Motorola cable box. Going with component/optical is an acceptable workaroud and I know this is common.


I have two displays -- an Infocus IN83 front PJ and a 23" HDMI/HDCP monitor for times when I don't want to turn on the PJ for something small. Both the cable box, a PS3, and Toshiba BR player all gave me the compromised HDMI repeater error and would not send a picture. From reading this forum, I knew the first suggestion would be cables (I have a 3yo 30' cable run to my PJ and it has a 6' splice which I know is a no-no with the sensitive D2v) so I changed them out for all Blue Jeans.


I haven't seen the repeater error recently, but I only get a black screen (audio is there) unless BOTH displays are turned on. I have to have them both on, which kills the PJs contrast from the LCD's light, or I have to physically unplug one HDMI from the Anthem. It is a workaround but not good for the cable/jack longevity. Is this normal behaviour?


But the worst part and most difficult to describe -- without making ANY changes to the setup (I have it auto detect input and anamorphic stretch the output) one day it is fine and then the next time I power it up, I'll get an obviously distorted image -- picture is shifted down enough pixels to get a black line at the top and it is badly stretched vertically so that the bottom 1/3 of the picutre is off the bottom of the screen and not visible. The first few times that happened, powering it off overnight would reset back to normal. A quick power down and up would not fix it, but several hours being off would. This was very odd to me and made me think of a thermal problem or other malfunction with the video board.


Well....a few days ago the picture distorted in the process of turning off my PJ and turning my monitor on, and I haven't been able to get it back. Even unplugging it overnight and the image is still stretched and missing the bottom 1/3. When I check the video output setting, input settings, and Video Processing Setting, nothing seems to have mysteriously changed from previous.


Any ideas and is this a problem that has been reported before? It does have the latest firmware (2.08) but I don't know how to check what version of 2.08. It also doesn't seem to matter if the D2v is receiving the image at 1080i or 720p via component, or 1080p via HDMI. Without taking my PJ off the ceiling I don't have a way to test whether the distorted image is only on the HDMI outs or other outs as well.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/18244812
> 
> 
> I remeasured over the last couple of days. Reduced the noise level as you suggested by 7db. Also toed in the thiel 3.7's. The sound does seem better, give me your opinion on the new charts. The sub on the anthem are at set at -8db by arc. Attachment 168848



Hi Slots,


Would you mind a little experiment? Listen to some programs, music and movies, with natural sounding and extended treble. Then change the MaxEQ frequency from 15 kHz to 5 kHz. Play those same tracks again. I know which will have the most "sparkle" but I'm wondering which will sound the most natural and smooth.


Thanks!


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Guys, i've got things operational here with the new D2v...all wiring done, now it's just tweaking time and then pure enjoyment! I've got the basics working fine, but I want to transfer certain settings over, but not all, from my old D2...I still have the old D2 here, and I have the old 1.33-based Live Video Settings and Settings Backup exe's....but the backing up of settings is all you can do with that second one. How do i actually see that settings were backed up...i just need to eyeball the old settings and then will manually set the new D2v where appropriate for certain new settings. I do NOT want to restore the old file in its entirety to the new D2v as i have made several hardware changes, etc. But there were some good sound settings that I liked and now don't have. How do I just view the existing settings? BTW, you might be asking why don't i just plug the s-video into the old D2 and look at the settings in the Setup menu and surf around taking note of the old settings? The answer is that OSD is not working anymore on my old D2..this is part of the whole video board issues that i've been suffering with for about 3 months.


Bob, I could swear there used to be an application from anthem that would allow you to configure the whole darn thing from software if you wanted, and would show you in the application what all of your settings were. Does that exist anymore?


Thanks again guys, sorry to jump into the mix here of the sub-tweaking...


----------



## jayray




abc999 said:


> I just can't imagine where your sub is located, can you provide a picture or a diagram?
> 
> 
> Alvin[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> I went from the front right corner of my room along the right wall about 8' toward the seats and now pointing the driver perpendicular to the wall(ie. Firing across the room, side wall to side wall)
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ManWithAPlan,

The utility you are thinking of is Setup Editor, but it will not work with your V1.33 D2.


Instead, I recommend you browse the Setup menu settings in your D2 by using its Front Panel display.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

blitz1856,

I suggest you call Anthem tech support to diagnose your corrupted video output. One possibility is that you need to open the chassis and reseat the HDMI output daughter board that plugs into the video board.


One test to try while waiting: With only your main display attached to the HDMI 1 output, go into Setup, Save User Settings (if necessary) and Reload Factory Defaults. Then manually reenter your Video Output settings and see if you get clean video. If so your settings might have become corrupted. For example there are Crop settings and Zoom settings in the Video Source Adjust menu that can screw up your video.


If you can't get good video starting from Factory Defaults, then reloading the firmware might be in order.


While on with Anthem, discuss your dual display problem as well. But concentrate on fixing the corrupted video first.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




jayray said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18245047
> 
> 
> I just can't imagine where your sub is located, can you provide a picture or a diagram?
> 
> 
> Alvin[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> I went from the front right corner of my room along the right wall about 8' toward the seats and now pointing the driver perpendicular to the wall(ie. Firing across the room, side wall to side wall)
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok Thanks, I get it now.
Click to expand...


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18246097
> 
> 
> ManWithAPlan,
> 
> The utility you are thinking of is Setup Editor, but it will not work with your V1.33 D2.
> 
> 
> Instead, I recommend you browse the Setup menu settings in your D2 by using its Front Panel display.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, that's what I ended up doing. I managed to get the important things over to the new D2v. So, I now have all 11 of my sources playing nice with the D2v. I think I can officially push back the rack of equipment, having made all the physical connections properly and tested all of them as well.


I really really like the D2v thus far. I could be wrong, but my video quality is noticeably better. And that's with absolutely no video settings other than defaults. The main work I still need to do is to improve the Audio Quality. The sound is not right at all, not nearly as dialed in as my calibrator had gotten my prior D2...its weird too, because I've now brought over manually things like the crossover settings, adc settings, speaker config, etc. The sound thru the old D2 was just better. I hope I'm just missing some calibration steps. I will be picking up the ARC that came with the D2v from the dealer this week, and then I can embark on tuning in the audio. I've never used ARC but i'll read up on the tips you've outlined before. My room is really awful too, with enormous windows that generate tons of slap echo. It is a very boomy, loud, echo-y room, not too much i can do about it - the windows are floor to ceiling all the way around. But hopefully ARC can bring it back to at least as good as it sounded thru my old calibrated sound from the old D2.


Thanks again Bob, I am officially loving my new D2v! The fine-tuning is all that's left I think. Cheers!


----------



## slots1

Bob,

The sub is large, it is the submersive, and it is right next to the center speaker only a few inches from the screen wall. But, it does have GIK sound traps behind it. Not sure where to move it. I am very pleased with the sound. And actually a couple of times when i ran the measurement, I had to do the sub over because it said it was to low in volume. And only one sub.

Thanks again

Gerry


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *davoe* 
Here is a clever and accurate way to set the phase and polarity of your sub. Get a test disc that can play a signal at or near your crossover frequency (mine's 80Hz). Disable all speakers except the front speaker nearest the sub. Reverse the polarity of that front speaker and play the test sound. Now position yourself in between the the front speaker and the sub and find the polarity and phase that produces a sharp null. It's a lot easier to find the null than peaking the sound (with the front at it's correct polarity).


When I did this, it made a huge difference in my system, especially playing music.
Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
Good tip! I haven't tried this, but it may also work to simply switch the sub Polarity setting in the Anthem and then adjusting Phase for the null. If Phase and Polarity are independent in the Anthem, and I believe they are, then this will be the correct Phase once you return Polarity back to its normal position.


Since Polarity operates across the complete range of bass frequencies whereas Phase operates near the crossovers only, you should try this with BOTH Polarities. You will then have a Phase candidate for each Polarity. Compare those two and pick the combo that works best.


Proper Phase is also a function of the distance settings. If your sub and the nearby speaker are equidistant from your center seating then their distance settings will be the same and you will get good results doing the test while listening in between them. If they are NOT equidistant, then positioning yourself in between them will be wrong because of the different distance delays. You can either do the test from your normal listening position, or you can temporarily set the sub and that speaker to the same distance setting (and distance will do so long as they are the same) and do the test positioned in between them. Then restore the correct distance settings.


Now, don't get too concerned about getting this Phase precisely right. A wide range of nearby phase settings will work just as well. And this is good because that main speaker you are using for the test is only standing in as a surrogate for ALL your main speakers. I.e., you can't get phase correct for ALL your speakers simultaneously because their relative distance from the sub is different. Typically folks use the LF speaker as the surrogate for all their main speakers.

--Bob


Davoe and Bob:


Just wanted to thank you for this great and awesome tip on subwoofer phase optimization. This is the easiest one I've seen on this topic for those if us with multiple subwoofers, two in my case. I downloaded a free sine wave generator from the net and set uts test frequency to 105Hz, the value ARC had prior decided for the LF crossover.


I first reversed the LF speaker terminals at the power amp and connected only Sub1 to the 50v. Sub2 was completely disconnected from the Anthem.

I then adjusted the phase in the Anthem from 0 to 180 degrees till I got the maximum NULL. For Sub1, it was at 0 degrees, though not much changed from 0 to 90 degrees or so.


I then disconnected Sub1 and connected Sub2 and repeated the process to find the maximum NULL. In ths case for sub2, the best null occured at a phase setting of 180 degrees in the Anthem(though it didn't change much from 130 to 180 degrees). Since, I knew the anthem a global one for all settings, I decided to manually adjust the phase knob at the Sub2 terminals to 180 degrees and set the Anthem back to 0 degrees.


I then connected both subs to the Anthem and repeated the whole phase optimization process, this time with 2 subs in my system with the LF terminal still reversed at the amplifier terminals. The final phase setting in the Anthem with both subs installed was 180 degrees for the best NULL using both subs.


Reconnected the LF speaker terminals back to normal and re-ARC'd everything. The sub pics say it all. Before the phase opt, the maximum bass peak was at 35Hz. After optimization, it moved down to 25Hz







!!! I now hear and feel gutteral and visceral sounds I've never heard before







!!! Its quite disconcerting to have your innards tossed about by these sounds which seem to come from nowhere and leave just as fast as they came







! Bass now has a distinctive ad unique sound to it. I thought the paying classical music would make it boomy. Nope, nope and nope!!! If deep bass ain't there, it isn't but if its there, the Organ pedals make one breathe deeply to quite down the rattling guts







.


I highly recommend this method for subwoofer phase optimization. Bravo Davoe!!! I believe to can be easily extended to 4 subs without much effort.


Those with multiple subs owe ourselves the extra time to phase match our speakers in our HT rooms (apartment in my case







) With this scheme by Davoes, this should make it a reality.


God Bless Y'all









David

 

Before Phase Opt..doc 325k . file

 

After Phase Opt..doc 251k . file


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18247070
> 
> 
> Davoe and Bob:
> 
> 
> Just wanted to thank you for this great and awesome tip on subwoofer phase optimization. This is the easiest one I've seen on this topic for those if us with multiple subwoofers, two in my case. I downloaded a free sine wave generator from the net and set uts test frequency to 105Hz, the value ARC had prior decided for the LF crossover.
> 
> 
> I first reversed the LF speaker terminals at the power amp and connected only Sub1 to the 50v. Sub2 was completely disconnected from the Anthem.
> 
> I then adjusted the phase in the Anthem from 0 to 180 degrees till I got the maximum NULL. For Sub1, it was at 0 degrees, though not much changed from 0 to 90 degrees or so.
> 
> 
> I then disconnected Sub1 and connected Sub2 and repeated the process to find the maximum NULL. In ths case for sub2, the best null occured at a phase setting of 180 degrees in the Anthem(though it didn't change much from 130 to 180 degrees). Since, I knew the anthem a global one for all settings, I decided to manually adjust the phase knob at the Sub2 terminals to 180 degrees and set the Anthem back to 0 degrees.
> 
> 
> I then connected both subs to the Anthem and repeated the whole phase optimization process, this time with 2 subs in my system with the LF terminal still reversed at the amplifier terminals. The final phase setting in the Anthem with both subs installed was 180 degrees for the best NULL using both subs.
> 
> 
> Reconnected the LF speaker terminals back to normal and re-ARC'd everything. The sub pics say it all. Before the phase opt, the maximum bass peak was at 35Hz. After optimization, it moved down to 25Hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!! I now hear and feel gutteral and visceral sounds I've never heard before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!! Its quite disconcerting to have your innards tossed about by these sounds which seem to come from nowhere and leave just as fast as they came
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! Bass now has a distinctive ad unique sound to it. I thought the paying classical music would make it boomy. Nope, nope and nope!!! If deep bass ain't there, it isn't but if its there, the Organ pedals make one breathe deeply to quite down the rattling guts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> I highly recommend this method for subwoofer phase optimization. Bravo Davoe!!! I believe to can be easily extended to 4 subs without much effort.
> 
> 
> Those with multiple subs owe ourselves the extra time to phase match our speakers in our HT rooms (apartment in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) With this scheme by Davoes, this should make it a reality.
> 
> 
> God Bless Y'all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> David



David,

I'm not sure you're finished yet. You have a steep drop in db from 50 to 100 Hz. Looks a lot like mine before I moved it around. With the subs you have, this doesn't look like they're earning their keep yet







You should look for something with a flatter range in the freq. I mentioned above. You will notice alot more punch ie. kick drum type sound if you do. I have attached my sub charts for you to see the before and after result of moving my Servo 15. I also would have sworn my LFE was excellent until I hear it now and it is such a big diff, I wouldn't have believed it.

John


----------



## jclem

OK, it was do-over time. I finally got around to downloading v2.08 and arc 2.4 . I changed my subs, too. I ran ARC and have some charts that I'd appreciate being looked over by you folks in the know. Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18249092
> 
> 
> OK, it was do-over time. I finally got around to downloading v2.08 and arc 2.4 . I changed my subs, too. I ran ARC and have some charts that I'd appreciate being looked over by you folks in the know. Thanks



Which sub did you get and can it go to 20 Hz at high dB levels?

John


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18249925
> 
> 
> Which sub did you get and can it go to 20 Hz at high dB levels?
> 
> John



I did have a single sub, but I went with a pair of JL Audio F112's. I don't think they quite get to 20hz, but they handle volume quite nicely. I have a somewhat bass/sound treated room that is 14'x17' and their volume knobs are only at 1/4. Some of that has to do with the fact that they are in the back corners (unavoidable), but bass volume is NOT an issue.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18251682
> 
> 
> I did have a single sub, but I went with a pair of JL Audio F112's. I don't think they quite get to 20hz, but they handle volume quite nicely. I have a somewhat bass/sound treated room that is 14'x17' and their volume knobs are only at 1/4. Some of that has to do with the fact that they are in the back corners (unavoidable), but bass volume is NOT an issue.



It isn't volume but volume at particular freq. that are now well below the other freq. My volume was not an issue but to hear it now the freq. that were understated are now there and the diff is stunning. As I mentioned, the freqs around 100 are the impact in movies that we love. If positioning is an issue then leave them, but if you can move them it should be worth the effort.

John


----------



## Warpdrv

The F112's roll off around the 18-19hz range and I can confirm with measurments that a single F112 in a room that size with room gain will hit that mark...


You have Duals in a room that size - that should be amazing and completely easy to hit 20hz or better with astonishing results.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18247588
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> I'm not sure you're finished yet. You have a steep drop in db from 50 to 100 Hz. Looks a lot like mine before I moved it around. With the subs you have, this doesn't look like they're earning their keep yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should look for something with a flatter range in the freq. I mentioned above. You will notice alot more punch ie. kick drum type sound if you do. I have attached my sub charts for you to see the before and after result of moving my Servo 15. I also would have sworn my LFE was excellent until I hear it now and it is such a big diff, I wouldn't have believed it.
> 
> John



Jayray:


Thanks for the comments on my plots. Sorry for the late response but I just returned home from work at this late hour







!


Unfortunately, in my small apartment, there's not much room to move the subs. The response you see is all along the front wall, I tried the front corners and the center. Response is pretty much the same. The only place to move is to move forward, away from the front wall but that would look awkward in my small room space. My next investment will be in room treatments (right after my awful tax payment







)!


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18249092
> 
> 
> OK, it was do-over time. I finally got around to downloading v2.08 and arc 2.4 . I changed my subs, too. I ran ARC and have some charts that I'd appreciate being looked over by you folks in the know. Thanks



I have to say I am a little confused by these plots since looking at your settings you have all the speakers set to 60Hz (did ARC set these or did you?), but it appears from the plots that ARC is applying a slope from about 100Hz which does not seem to use the capability of your speakers. Also there appears to be a hole between between your subs and your other speakers.


Maybe I am misinterpreting these but the plots and settings do not seem to match


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/18253953
> 
> 
> I have to say I am a little confused by these plots since looking at your settings you have all the speakers set to 60Hz (did ARC set these or did you?), but it appears from the plots that ARC is applying a slope from about 100Hz which does not seem to use the capability of your speakers. Also there appears to be a hole between between your subs and your other speakers.
> 
> 
> Maybe I am misinterpreting these but the plots and settings do not seem to match



Yes, Arc set them all at 60 and the subs at 100. I don't know enough to try to mess with settings. ??????????


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18254570
> 
> 
> Yes, Arc set them all at 60 and the subs at 100. I don't know enough to try to mess with settings. ??????????



Cutoffs are diff from the acutual Xovers shown in your speaker settings in the unit. My fronts are set to 60, surrounds to 110. Sub is at 120 but my Xover is 60. What are your surround speakers? They may be more capable than the standard surrounds most use here.

John


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18254868
> 
> 
> Cutoffs are diff from the acutual Xovers shown in your speaker settings in the unit. My fronts are set to 60, surrounds to 110. Sub is at 120 but my Xover is 60. What are your surround speakers? They may be more capable than the standard surrounds most use here.
> 
> John



The terminology of xovers vs 'response cutoffs' confuses me, but that being said ARC set all the "response cutoffs". The 3 front speakers are Triads and the 4 surround spkrs are in-wall Paradigm SA35. None of them give the choice of setting or adjusting "crossovers". The 2 subs are JL F112's and their xovers(or I guess as they call it 'LP frequency') have been shutoff as per Bob P's instructions to "get them out of the way".


It's confusing that a year ago or so, before the JL's, and before the changes to 2.08 and arc 2.4, I ran Arc and the results seemed to be OK. ( I posted them here and people, like Bob P, said that, not me since I don't know what the hell I'm looking at). I even called Anthem yesterday when I was getting ready to run arc, and spoke to a tech about the sub setup and "I think" I followed his instructions correctly.

Any ideas?? Should I try to send the charts to Anthem tech?


----------



## hoehne

Quick question about video setup on the D2V. I setup my D2V a couple of weeks back and just installed an Oppo 83 bluray this week. I was curious how a DVD would look, so I threw in Die Hard (original release). Of course the movie looked like crap, but what I really found interesting is that when I had the Oppo output the native stream (480i) via HDMI to the D2V, the D2V processed the signal to 1080P-24 and sent to my Pro141. The movie really looked like crap because the pictures was jumping and not smooth at all. Not subtle either, really jumping and unwatchable. I then set the Oppo to output 1080P-24 via HDMI to the D2V and therefore the D2V didn't have to do anything and the movie looked fine, nice smooth motion.


I thought the D2V would be a better processor than the Oppo, but this doesn't appear to be the case. I think the actual problem is an incorrect setting. If I want to send a native 480i signal to the D2V from the Oppo, what should the video configuration be on the D2V and should anything be defeated like DVD to 24 fps on the Oppo (assuming this function affects the 480i native output)?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18253101
> 
> 
> Jayray:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the comments on my plots. Sorry for the late response but I just returned home from work at this late hour
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, in my small apartment, there's not much room to move the subs. The response you see is all along the front wall, I tried the front corners and the center. Response is pretty much the same. The only place to move is to move forward, away from the front wall but that would look awkward in my small room space. My next investment will be in room treatments (right after my awful tax payment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )!



I understand constraints are an issue. If ever you can move them do try it. In the meantime, enjoy.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18255052
> 
> 
> The terminology of xovers vs 'response cutoffs' confuses me, but that being said ARC set all the "response cutoffs". The 3 front speakers are Triads and the 4 surround spkrs are in-wall Paradigm SA35. None of them give the choice of setting or adjusting "crossovers". The 2 subs are JL F112's and their xovers(or I guess as they call it 'LP frequency') have been shutoff as per Bob P's instructions to "get them out of the way".
> 
> 
> It's confusing that a year ago or so, before the JL's, and before the changes to 2.08 and arc 2.4, I ran Arc and the results seemed to be OK. ( I posted them here and people, like Bob P, said that, not me since I don't know what the hell I'm looking at). I even called Anthem yesterday when I was getting ready to run arc, and spoke to a tech about the sub setup and "I think" I followed his instructions correctly.
> 
> Any ideas?? Should I try to send the charts to Anthem tech?



Relax. You are fine.


Folks are getting a bit confused here. First of all, there is no hole between any of your other speakers and the sub. Bass steering from the other speakers to the sub happens below the crossover frequency for the other speakers -- 60Hz in your case. Your sub is all set to handle that.


The roll off in the other speakers below 100Hz folks are talking about is merely the low frequency end of the Room Gain hump that ARC has retained in your solution -- about 4dB. How do we know? Look at the flat part of the target curves in the mid-range frequencies (to the right of the crossovers) and note the targeted volume. In your case that is 85dB (more about that below). That's the "basic volume level" of your ARC solution. Now go back to the Room Gain hump and trace the downslope as you go to lower frequencies. Note were it crosses below the basic volume level.


That's 60Hz. I.e., the crossover point for your other speakers. The vicinity of the crossover is where bass steering happens -- where bass in your other speaker channels starts getting sent to the sub instead.


Now look what the sub is doing at 60Hz. Note that it is about 4dB above the basic volume level. Why? That's just its contribution to the Room Gain hump.


-------------------------------------


Crossover frequencies have to do with bass steering. Cutoffs have to do with how ARC allocates its Room Correction resources. For all speakers except the subwoofer, ARC V2.x makes their crossovers match the specified cutoffs. I.e., the roll off enforced by the crossover is used to limit the amount of work ARC has to do below that frequency because the contribution from that speaker starts to go away at that frequency.


For the subwoofer, special things happen. First of all, ARC V2.x has the intelligence to pick a different crossover and cutoff for the sub. The crossover shapes the sub's high frequency response curve, but the cutoff limits how high up ARC applies correction resources. Think of it as kind of like Max EQ Frequency for the subwoofer. It is quite common for the subwoofer crossover and cutoff to be assigned different values and for the sub crossover to be distinct from any of the other speaker crossovers.


NOTE: You can view the "cutoff" values in ARC's Targets window -- and those also give you the "crossover" values for the other speakers -- but the only way to find out what crossover value ARC is using for the subwoofer itself is to Upload the solution and then look at what got put into Setup > Speaker Configuration > Bass Manager Movie/Music for the subwoofer crossover.


Anyway, trust me on this, the math works. ARC uses the SET of cutoffs (and thus crossovers) to establish its target curves so that bass steering works correctly.


------------------------------------------


Now let's talk about the frequency range from 50-100Hz. This is crucial for the perception of clean bass.


For steered bass (from the other speakers) we already know the volume levels are OK. Yes your sub rolls off above 100Hz, but it is NOT PLAYING any steered bass up that high. Steered bass is happening down around 60Hz and below.


And for you, the critical region to get Polarity/Phase correct between your sub and your other speakers is around 60Hz, because that's where (the crossover frequencies) the sub and main speakers are playing the same content (steered bass) at the same time. That is, bass steering isn't a hard transition. It happens gradually with more bass being steered to the sub as you drop further below the crossover.


That just leaves the LFE content.


LFE is handled specially by ARC. Even if the ARC is using a low sub crossover for other reasons, it lets all the LFE content through to the sub, and shapes the sub response.


Now in your case your sub's Measured response is dropping off rather sharply above 100Hz. This could be a design limit in your sub, or it could be that you haven't correctly disabled the sub's built-in crossover, or it could be a room cancellation that the sub is coupling too. Moving the sub might fix that.


But LFE content is already rolling off above 80Hz and is essentially gone by 125Hz. At 125Hz your green, Calculated response from the sub is only 3dB down from your basic volume level. So the bottom line is, you are fine.


------------------------------------------


Now I said I'd get back to your basic volume level being 85dB. That's higher than I would recommend and might possibly result in poorer Measurements of those bass peaks in LF/RF for example.


Typically, for home theater use, you set up ARC to try to get a basic volume level close to 75dB. This corresponds to the SPL level that "reference level content" will generate when your main volume control is set at -10dB during normal listening.


How do you adjust this? Go into Setup > Level Calibration and reduce the value in the Test Level line. ARC uses that value to set the volume of its sweep tones and to adjust the basic volume level of the solution. You need to lower that by 8-10dB from wherever it is now.


While you are in there, check to see what volume trim ARC Uploaded for your subwoofer. If it is not already a few dB either side of 0dB, then adjust the volume knob built into your sub to compensate a bit. I.e., if the volume trim is -8dB ARC has found your sub volume too loud. So lower the sub's volume knob a bit before your next ARC Measurement pass.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/18255053
> 
> 
> Quick question about video setup on the D2V. I setup my D2V a couple of weeks back and just installed an Oppo 83 bluray this week. I was curious how a DVD would look, so I threw in Die Hard (original release). Of course the movie looked like crap, but what I really found interesting is that when I had the Oppo output the native stream (480i) via HDMI to the D2V, the D2V processed the signal to 1080P-24 and sent to my Pro141. The movie really looked like crap because the pictures was jumping and not smooth at all. Not subtle either, really jumping and unwatchable. I then set the Oppo to output 1080P-24 via HDMI to the D2V and therefore the D2V didn't have to do anything and the movie looked fine, nice smooth motion.
> 
> 
> I thought the D2V would be a better processor than the Oppo, but this doesn't appear to be the case. I think the actual problem is an incorrect setting. If I want to send a native 480i signal to the D2V from the Oppo, what should the video configuration be on the D2V and should anything be defeated like DVD to 24 fps on the Oppo (assuming this function affects the 480i native output)?



480i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion for film-based content is not yet working in the V2.08 firmware. I don't know what the ETA is on fixing this. Use 1080p/60 output from the D2v instead.


1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion for film-based content is working but is still considered "preliminary".


To get either of these conversions to function you need to use 1080p/24 as your Video Output setting in the D2v, and you need to set Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock = Auto for that source. It is the Auto setting that enables the conversion routine. Expect the HDMI handshake to take a little longer as the D2v needs to analyze the input to see if a /24 stream is present in it.


NOTE: With Frame Lock = Auto, if ARC determines the input stream does not have embedded /24 content, the D2v video output will switch to 1080p/60 automatically.


If you don't use Frame Lock = Auto, then you will get stuttering as the D2v converts the /60 input stream to /24 by dropping frames.


You will also get stuttering even if you are using Frame Lock = Auto if the D2v loses track of the /24 cadence in the input. This is what is going wrong with 480i/60 input right now. But understand that some /60 content is so poorly produced that it is essentially impossible to extract the original /24 stream from it. So even when Anthem gets the conversion correct, there will likely still be some sources where it starts to stutter (the same is true in what the Oppo does). And the solution for that is to just use 1080p/60 instead.


Note that if you are playing VIDEO-based content (no original /24 stream in the first place), attempting to convert it to /24 is bound to produce stuttering. That's simply because there is no good way to decide which frames to discard. So if you take video-based 480i/60 or 1080i/60 content and set 1080p/24 output with Frame Lock = OFF you are bound to get stuttering. This is very similar to what's going on with 480i/60 film-based content now even with Frame Lock = Auto.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18247070
> 
> 
> Davoe and Bob:
> 
> 
> Just wanted to thank you for this great and awesome tip on subwoofer phase optimization. This is the easiest one I've seen on this topic for those if us with multiple subwoofers, two in my case. I downloaded a free sine wave generator from the net and set uts test frequency to 105Hz, the value ARC had prior decided for the LF crossover.
> 
> 
> I first reversed the LF speaker terminals at the power amp and connected only Sub1 to the 50v. Sub2 was completely disconnected from the Anthem.
> 
> I then adjusted the phase in the Anthem from 0 to 180 degrees till I got the maximum NULL. For Sub1, it was at 0 degrees, though not much changed from 0 to 90 degrees or so.
> 
> 
> I then disconnected Sub1 and connected Sub2 and repeated the process to find the maximum NULL. In ths case for sub2, the best null occured at a phase setting of 180 degrees in the Anthem(though it didn't change much from 130 to 180 degrees). Since, I knew the anthem a global one for all settings, I decided to manually adjust the phase knob at the Sub2 terminals to 180 degrees and set the Anthem back to 0 degrees.
> 
> 
> I then connected both subs to the Anthem and repeated the whole phase optimization process, this time with 2 subs in my system with the LF terminal still reversed at the amplifier terminals. The final phase setting in the Anthem with both subs installed was 180 degrees for the best NULL using both subs.
> 
> 
> Reconnected the LF speaker terminals back to normal and re-ARC'd everything. The sub pics say it all. Before the phase opt, the maximum bass peak was at 35Hz. After optimization, it moved down to 25Hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!! I now hear and feel gutteral and visceral sounds I've never heard before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!! Its quite disconcerting to have your innards tossed about by these sounds which seem to come from nowhere and leave just as fast as they came
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! Bass now has a distinctive ad unique sound to it. I thought the paying classical music would make it boomy. Nope, nope and nope!!! If deep bass ain't there, it isn't but if its there, the Organ pedals make one breathe deeply to quite down the rattling guts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> I highly recommend this method for subwoofer phase optimization. Bravo Davoe!!! I believe to can be easily extended to 4 subs without much effort.
> 
> 
> Those with multiple subs owe ourselves the extra time to phase match our speakers in our HT rooms (apartment in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) With this scheme by Davoes, this should make it a reality.
> 
> 
> God Bless Y'all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> David



The red Measured response for your pair of subs looks like the subs still have their internal crossovers turned on. Your basic volume level is around 77dB and the sub is hitting that at around 60Hz, and is 7dB down by 100Hz.


This is something you need to fix as your surround speakers in particular need support below 100Hz.


Since your sub output is already weak through this crossover region, it is no surprise that getting the phase just right helped a lot. But things will be better still if you can figure out what you need to do to get higher frequency output from your pair of subs.


You want the crossover in both subs to be disabled, or if you can't disable it, at least crank it up to the highest frequency setting to get it out of the way as much as possible.


In some subs, you disable their internal crossover with a switch. For others, it is a separate input jack. For others the trick is to turn of THX mode as that imposes a fixed 80Hz crossover.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

I have spent some time on working on my sub. I think I have done a pretty good job with dialing in the sub at least I hope I did. The one strange thing that I notice now is that ARC is crossing over my mains at 115 hz. Before I messed around with my sub, ARC always, 100% of the time, crossed my mains over at 60 hz. So, the only thing I can think of why ARC is crossing my mains over so high is because the sub is handling that better than what the mains can do. Anyway, that's my theory for now. I did force a 3.0 Room Gain for movies and left the Room Gain for music to what ARC came up with. Anyway, could you please take a look at my charts and let me know what you think?


Thanks in advance for looking and for any advice.


----------



## jclem

Bob, Thanks for the lenghty, detailed answer/explanations. I will print these out and go over them more carefully. In the mean time, a couple of answers to your questions/comments.


The pair of JL's do have an LP filter which can be (and ARE) shut off which I believe means that it doesn't matter where the LP Frequency dial is set(30-130 range). The subs are in the rear corners (and can't be moved more than a few inches due to WAF). I do have 5 bass traps around the room, one in each rear corner above the subs. All of the speakers are "locked" into position--3 fronts in cabinetry and 4 surrounds are in-wall. So there's no changing locations.


I was "Pretty" sure that I had set the spl meter up for 75 but maybe the dial was at 80 rather than 70. I'll check on that. I last did an arc test over a year ago, so I can't be sure, but it did seem to me that the test tones were louder this time.

I believe that the sub trim level was +.5.


One question about the charts, the left and right rears( and to a lesser degree, the l&r surrounds) look a little 'wild' and it looks like Arc had a hard time taming them. Could that be because the test volume was too loud? Is that a problem? Their trims were -5 to -6.


I'll check things out and be running arc again. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18256456
> 
> 
> Bob, Thanks for the lenghty, detailed answer/explanations. I will print these out and go over them more carefully. In the mean time, a couple of answers to your questions/comments.
> 
> 
> The pair of JL's do have an LP filter which can be (and ARE) shut off which I believe means that it doesn't matter where the LP Frequency dial is set(30-130 range). The subs are in the rear corners (and can't be moved more than a few inches due to WAF). I do have 5 bass traps around the room, one in each rear corner above the subs. All of the speakers are "locked" into position--3 fronts in cabinetry and 4 surrounds are in-wall. So there's no changing locations.
> 
> 
> I was "Pretty" sure that I had set the spl meter up for 75 but maybe the dial was at 80 rather than 70. I'll check on that. I last did an arc test over a year ago, so I can't be sure, but it did seem to me that the test tones were louder this time.
> 
> I believe that the sub trim level was +.5.
> 
> 
> One question about the charts, the left and right rears( and to a lesser degree, the l&r surrounds) look a little 'wild' and it looks like Arc had a hard time taming them. Could that be because the test volume was too loud? Is that a problem? Their trims were -5 to -6.
> 
> 
> I'll check things out and be running arc again. Thanks



There's really no problem you need to address with your sub. So don't worry about it. The rest of your speakers go low enough that you don't need higher frequencies from your sub. The sharp drop at 100Hz is probably a room null that the sub is coupling to, but no problem


There appears to be a 6dB bug in the way ARC uses the Test Level setting which is affecting some people. I don't know why it doesn't affect everybody.


In any event, assume that, and also assume a 2dB or so error in the way you set things up with your SPL meter and you've got your current charts. Like I said, just lower Test Level by 8dB or so before you next ARC Measurement pass and you should be back in the 75dB ballpark again. And if your sub volume trim is off, also tweak its volume knob a bit before that next run.


The residual errors in your side surrounds are small enough to ignore.


The residual errors in your rear surrounds look like ARC just ran out of resources for all the correction it had to do. There are three things you can play with to see if you can clean up the solution:


1) Adjust Max EQ Frequency. Lowering it below the 17KHz you have now will free up resources. Take a quick look at the default 5KHz to see what I mean. But sometimes it can surprise you. That is 17 and 18 might look equally bad but 17.5 looks good. So play around a bit.


2) Lower Room Gain. I think the bass peaks in LF/RF may have confused ARC into building in a bit more room gain than works well for the surrounds. Experiment with reducing it from the 3.9 ARC found -- perhaps in the range 3-3.9.


3) Tweak the cutoff/crossover frequency for the Rear Surrounds. Shifting it a bit up or down from the 60Hz ARC is using might help the solution to snap into place. Try between 50-70Hz.


Focus on what settings work best for LR/RR and then when you have candidate settings take a close look at the other speaker curves to be sure you haven't done any damage there.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

I started to set up to retest. I first checked out the spl reading and it WAS quite high--I had to put the test level at -5.5 to bring it to 75. I then zeroed out all the other speaker trims like I'm supposed to, right?. Then I got ready to match the levels of LFront and the subs to 75. When I started the test signal, it was very quiet and well below 75,so I had to move the test level up to about -1. So I put the trims back in, and I had to go back to -5.5 to get it to 75.


Am I missing something very obvious?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18256440
> 
> 
> I have spent some time on working on my sub. I think I have done a pretty good job with dialing in the sub at least I hope I did. The one strange thing that I notice now is that ARC is crossing over my mains at 115 hz. Before I messed around with my sub, ARC always, 100% of the time, crossed my mains over at 60 hz. So, the only thing I can think of why ARC is crossing my mains over so high is because the sub is handling that better than what the mains can do. Anyway, that's my theory for now. I did force a 3.0 Room Gain for movies and left the Room Gain for music to what ARC came up with. Anyway, could you please take a look at my charts and let me know what you think?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for looking and for any advice.



Your Measured sub curve definitely looks weird, but it appears ARC has handled that. [If you could lop off that Measured sub peak at 70Hz, and lift the volume for the sub by 5dB things might look more reasonable. That peak may be a room resonance. I don't know what your "bad" sub results used to look like, so what you have now may indeed be your best bet. In any event, ARC is doing good things with it.]


ARC is using the high crossover for LF/RF to force a roll off of their unwanted bass peaks. The crossover is an easy tool for ARC to use to sweep a problem like that under the rug. I can only assume that in the past ARC didn't feel confident enough in your sub's higher frequencies so it couldn't do that.


But there's no reason I can see why you can't return the LF/RF cutoff/crossover back to 60Hz and see what happens. ARC will be using more sophisticated resources to tame those Measured bass peaks in LF/RF, so check all the speaker curves to make sure you don't get additional residual errors due to ARC running out of resources. But since you've left Max EQ Frequency at the default 5KHz, that shouldn't be a problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18256688
> 
> 
> I started to set up to retest. I first checked out the spl reading and it WAS quite high--I had to put the test level at -5.5 to bring it to 75. I then zeroed out all the other speaker trims like I'm supposed to, right?. Then I got ready to match the levels of LFront and the subs to 75. When I started the test signal, it was very quiet and well below 75,so I had to move the test level up to about -1. So I put the trims back in, and I had to go back to -5.5 to get it to 75.
> 
> 
> Am I missing something very obvious?



Yes, you are.


Test Level interacts with the current LF speaker volume trim setting. Both ways.


So zero out all the lines in Setup > Level Calibration as your FIRST step. Then set Test Level. Then go down to a subwoofer line, leave it at 0dB and adjust the volume knob in your sub.


AFTER adjusting the sub, if you are being bitten by the 6dB Test Level bug you will, as a last step, need to lower Test Level an additional 6dB. (You can only see if you have this problem, by doing an ARC run.)


Since your plan is to do another ARC run, just leave all the other lines in Level Calibration at 0dB. ARC only uses the Test Level line and it Uploads new values for all the other lines. [ARC actually zeroes out all those other lines as a preliminary step before starting its sweep tones. So it really doesn't matter what values you have in those other lines. The Test Level line and the sub volume knob setting are the only things that matter.]

--Bob


----------



## jclem

OK. Well, then it seems obvious that I have been "bitten by the 6db bug", because I apparently did have the spl meter set right but the Arc testing read me at 85. (BTW, I just looked at some older charts (1yr plus so I was on 2.04 and arc 2.1), and arc read me at 75 on some and 80 on some??)


So, after matching LF speaker and sub, I set the level setting to -6db and run arc. Right?


BTW, I just remembered that 2.08 DID fix the issue I had with the AIX disc and LPCM. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18256861
> 
> 
> OK. Well, then it seems obvious that I have been "bitten by the 6db bug", because I apparently did have the spl meter set right but the Arc testing read me at 85. (BTW, I just looked at some older charts (1yr plus so I was on 2.04 and arc 2.1), and arc read me at 75 on some and 80 on some??)
> 
> 
> So, after matching LF speaker and sub, I set the level setting to -6db and run arc. Right?
> 
> 
> BTW, I just remembered that 2.08 DID fix the issue I had with the AIX disc and LPCM. Thanks



Urh, no.


Zero all lines in Level Calibration. Adjust Test Level (leaving LF at 0dB). Move down to a subwoofer line and adjust the sub volume knob (leaving the sub line itself still at 0dB and using the Test Level value you set above -- i.e., all lines 0dB except for Test Level you just set). After that, take the Test Level value you found above and reduce it an additional 6dB to compensate for the ARC bug. (If it was at +2dB, change it to -4dB.) Now go Measure for ARC.


ARC will Upload the correct volume trim settings for your speakers leaving Test Level unchanged. Since ARC ignores the speaker volume trims during Measurement, you only have to do this once, as Test Level will stay in place for any additional ARC runs.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

OK, Thanks (& sorry) What's it like helping dummies all day??


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18257004
> 
> 
> OK, Thanks (& sorry) What's it like helping dummies all day??



Keep in mind I only know this stuff, because I've already made all these mistakes myself.










Anyway, we need more glee here. I've got a whole bunch of these happy bouncing head guys eager to go traveling now that spring is nearly here!

--Bob


----------



## hoehne




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18256214
> 
> 
> 480i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion for film-based content is not yet working in the V2.08 firmware. I don't know what the ETA is on fixing this. Use 1080p/60 output from the D2v instead.
> 
> 
> 1080i/60 to 1080p/24 conversion for film-based content is working but is still considered "preliminary".
> 
> 
> To get either of these conversions to function you need to use 1080p/24 as your Video Output setting in the D2v, and you need to set Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock = Auto for that source. It is the Auto setting that enables the conversion routine. Expect the HDMI handshake to take a little longer as the D2v needs to analyze the input to see if a /24 stream is present in it.
> 
> 
> NOTE: With Frame Lock = Auto, if ARC determines the input stream does not have embedded /24 content, the D2v video output will switch to 1080p/60 automatically.
> 
> 
> If you don't use Frame Lock = Auto, then you will get stuttering as the D2v converts the /60 input stream to /24 by dropping frames.
> 
> 
> You will also get stuttering even if you are using Frame Lock = Auto if the D2v loses track of the /24 cadence in the input. This is what is going wrong with 480i/60 input right now. But understand that some /60 content is so poorly produced that it is essentially impossible to extract the original /24 stream from it. So even when Anthem gets the conversion correct, there will likely still be some sources where it starts to stutter (the same is true in what the Oppo does). And the solution for that is to just use 1080p/60 instead.
> 
> 
> Note that if you are playing VIDEO-based content (no original /24 stream in the first place), attempting to convert it to /24 is bound to produce stuttering. That's simply because there is no good way to decide which frames to discard. So if you take video-based 480i/60 or 1080i/60 content and set 1080p/24 output with Frame Lock = OFF you are bound to get stuttering. This is very similar to what's going on with 480i/60 film-based content now even with Frame Lock = Auto.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks for the great response. I will play around with some settings tonight and try and determine which configuration is best regarding Oppo 480i/60 to D2V converting to 1080P/60 or if I should have the Oppo convert to 1080P/60 and send to the D2V. Has anyone else tried these configurations and found one that works better? i.e. Does the Oppo do a better job of DVD conversion than the D2V.


I can't remember right now as I am not in front of my D2V, but does it have a video pass through where it doesn't rescale or retouch the signal? I figure if the Oppo is outputting 1080P/24 bluray, there is no need for the D2V to do anything. I am not sure if the D2V processes a signal if the requested output signal matches the input signal or if it still processes for the fun of it. So how does and when does the video processing alter the signal?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/18257139
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the great response. I will play around with some settings tonight and try and determine which configuration is best regarding Oppo 480i/60 to D2V converting to 1080P/60 or if I should have the Oppo convert to 1080P/60 and send to the D2V. Has anyone else tried these configurations and found one that works better? i.e. Does the Oppo do a better job of DVD conversion than the D2V.
> 
> 
> I can't remember right now as I am not in front of my D2V, but does it have a video pass through where it doesn't rescale or retouch the signal? I figure if the Oppo is outputting 1080P/24 bluray, there is no need for the D2V to do anything. I am not sure if the D2V processes a signal if the requested output signal matches the input signal or if it still processes for the fun of it. So how does and when does the video processing alter the signal?



If you have an Oppo BDP-83, my recommendation is that you set it to explicit 1080p output (not Auto) with "16:9 Wide/Auto" aspect ratio and TV "Multi-system". I recommend you set 1080p/24 Auto and DVD/24 OFF.


Set that way, the Oppo will send 1080p/24 to the D2v for film-based Blu-ray movies and 1080p/60 to the D2v for everything else. 4:3 DVDs will be in the proper aspect ratio (with pillar bars generated by the Oppo), and PAL discs will play as 1080p/50 into the D2v.


Now, if you happen to be playing a newer, film-based, SD-DVD movie with what you think is a high quality transfer feel free to change the Oppo setting to DVD/24 ON. The Oppo will convert the 480i/60 on the disc to 1080p/24 for output to the D2v. But at the first sign of stuttering, resign yourself to the fact that the SD-DVD transfer was not as good as you thought and return the Oppo to DVD/24 OFF. The Oppo will then output that disc as 1080p/60 to the D2v. NOTE: It takes a few seconds for the Oppo to start the conversion, so expect a second handshake a couple seconds after the movie starts playing (i.e., at the moment it switches its output from 1080p/60 to 1080p/24).


The quality of the de-interlacing and scaling in the BDP-83 is so good you might as well let it do the job, which also lets you use some of its convenience features such as the aspect ratio stuff and the zoom modes.


Meanwhile, in the D2v you can uses 1080p/24 output with Frame Lock Auto for the Oppo input to switch automatically between 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 output. The D2v will be doing no frame rate conversion (as the input is already 1080p/24 when appropriate).


You will also need a 1080p/60 Video Output configuration for other sources.


Alternatively you can switch manually between your 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 Video Output configurations, either using the shortcut under the Mode key on the remote or by setting up 2 Source definitions for the same input device, specifying the 2 Video Output selections.


------------------------------------------------------


For folks using displays that don't "do the right thing" with 1080p/24 input, it is still a good idea to send 1080p/24 from the Oppo to the D2v for Blu-Ray movies -- i.e., just as it comes off the disc. The D2v will easily convert that to /60 for output to your display as requested in your Video Output configuration. (Conversion from /24 to /60 is trivially easy -- no chance of stuttering.) But there is no point at all in telling the Oppo to convert SD-DVDs to /24, as they'll just need to be converted back to /60 anyway for output to your display and the initial conversion from /60 to /24 can result in stuttering unless the input content stream is pristine.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

walt here.

has anyone seen (or used) paradigm's sub EQ setup? they represent it as being from the same folks as arc (canadian's) and their system uses the same mike;stand etc as arc. and, they claim, is compatible with same.

Eh?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/18257569
> 
> 
> walt here.
> 
> has anyone seen (or used) paradigm's sub EQ setup? they represent it as being from the same folks as arc (canadian's) and their system uses the same mike;stand etc as arc. and, they claim, is compatible with same.
> 
> Eh?



Paradigm is the parent company of Sonic Frontiers, aka Anthem.


The Paradigm "Perfect Bass Kit" (PBK) software for some of their subwoofers is the subwoofer portion of ARC re-jiggered to run on the processing hardware inside the subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

how do I get the beta firmware (above 1.33) for the d2? I have hit my limit on hdmi sync problemS (mostly with my comcast dcx 3400). I just cant take it anymore.. happens everytime i sit down to watch tv. My freinds say... what the bleep is wrong with your expensive system? why does it take so long to chang channels... where did the picture go? Honestly, unless i am home... I will get a call from a friend... hey, I am trying to watch a game and suddenly there is not picture... OH. well, turn off the anthem and then turn it it back on and that SHOULD bring the picture back. Drives me crazy. Component, btw, is out of the question. And yes, the HDMI cables are just fine.


-b


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Why is Component out of the question?


In any event, to answer your question, give Anthem tech support a call and ask them if your D2 will work with the Beta V1.47f firmware.


They can give you the access info.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18251682
> 
> 
> I did have a single sub, but I went with a pair of JL Audio F112's. I don't think they quite get to 20hz, but they handle volume quite nicely. I have a somewhat bass/sound treated room that is 14'x17' and their volume knobs are only at 1/4. Some of that has to do with the fact that they are in the back corners (unavoidable), but bass volume is NOT an issue.



Hi,


IS ARO engaged on the Sub? What is the ELF dial setting?


Alvin


----------



## abc999

Hi bob,


How do you set the sub distance when you have 2 subs that have different measurements? Front is 11ft away and the back is 8ft.


Alvin


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18258182
> 
> 
> Hi bob,
> 
> 
> How do you set the sub distance when you have 2 subs that have different measurements? Front is 11ft away and the back is 8ft.
> 
> 
> Alvin



Split the difference, 9.5 feet, and separately adjust Phase for each.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18258071
> 
> 
> Why is Component out of the question?
> 
> 
> In any event, to answer your question, give Anthem tech support a call and ask them if your D2 will work with the Beta V1.47f firmware.
> 
> 
> They can give you the access info.
> 
> --Bob



COMPONENT is out of the question because there is a video hum (scrolling bar) that is evidend when component is hooked up.... a hum that has proved impossible to identify and eliminate in my house after much trial and error. Not evident with HDMI. This became one of the main reason I purchased the D2 in the first place because of the HDMI in and out capabilities. I am finally at my wits end with this sync issue and i need a solution... especially when I see a friend's Onkyo receiver set up with the same equipment without the same issues... equipment that costs a fraction of the what i paid for the D2. I have had the video board replaced as the original one went out... so it is red and I believe that makes me compatible for the beta firmware no?


----------



## Joelc

A favour please...


As a soon to be owner of a Anthem D2v [although, I must admit that I am a little nervous about this purchase because i) I fear a D3 is just around the corner but since I have sold my Meridian 861 I need a new pre/pro NOW and ii) it is near impossible to audition one in a good listening environment] I am looking for a good high resolution picture of the 17" inch version but have been unsuccessful in finding one...


Can someone please PM me or provide me with the URL for a high quality picture of the my soon to be toy...


TIA!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/18258435
> 
> 
> COMPONENT is out of the question because there is a video hum (scrolling bar) that is evidend when component is hooked up.... a hum that has proved impossible to identify and eliminate in my house after much trial and error. Not evident with HDMI. This became one of the main reason I purchased the D2 in the first place because of the HDMI in and out capabilities. I am finally at my wits end with this sync issue and i need a solution... especially when I see a friend's Onkyo receiver set up with the same equipment without the same issues... equipment that costs a fraction of the what i paid for the D2. I have had the video board replaced as the original one went out... so it is red and I believe that makes me compatible for the beta firmware no?



Yes, with a red video board, even as a replacement, you are good to go for "test" V1.47f.


By now you must know that you have a ground loop (the slowly rising horizontal video interference -- it rises because the true refresh rate of video is 59.94 Hz and the power line interference -- the ground loop -- is slightly faster at 60Hz). These can be a real nuisance to deal with. It wouldn't surprise me to learn that some of your HDMI handshake issues are related to signal noise from that ground loop, even though the interference doesn't appear on screen after the HDMI handshake settles down.


If you would like to take another stab at eliminating that video interference there are some things you can try. The first, of course is to disconnect the cable feed between the wall and your DCX box -- with the DCX now connected via component to the D2. If the video interference goes away, then you know it is coming into your system on the shield of that cable TV feed -- the single most common source of such problems. There are ways to fix that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joelc* /forum/post/18258466
> 
> 
> A favour please...
> 
> 
> As a soon to be owner of a Anthem D2v [although, I must admit that I am a little nervous about this purchase because i) I fear a D3 is just around the corner but since I have sold my Meridian 861 I need a new pre/pro NOW and ii) it is near impossible to audition one in a good listening environment] I am looking for a good high resolution picture of the 17" inch version but have been unsuccessful in finding one...
> 
> 
> Can someone please PM me or provide me with the URL for a high quality picture of the my soon to be toy...
> 
> 
> TIA!!



Here you go:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...l_Versions.pdf 


The picture is of a D1, but the 17" chassis for the special order D2v is the same.


Basically the chassis itself is 17 1/4", so the 17" version simply lacks the "wings" that extend from either side of the front plate. The normal version has curved wing handles extending either side of the front plate, and the rack mount version has side handles drilled for mounting bolts on either side. The 17" version has no side handles at all.

--Bob


----------



## Joelc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18258540
> 
> 
> Here you go:
> 
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...l_Versions.pdf
> 
> 
> The picture is of a D1, but the 17" chassis for the special order D2v is the same.
> 
> 
> Basically the chassis itself is 17 1/4", so the 17" version simply lacks the "wings" that extend from either side of the front plate. The normal version has curved wing handles extending either side of the front plate, and the rack mount version has side handles drilled for mounting bolts on either side. The 17" version has no side handles at all.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Appreciate the url as well as the information...that said, I am looking for a larger stand alone high resolution photo that I can use for my desktop background...the picture/url you referred me to lacks the necessary resolution...would you have any other directions to point me in...


One more thing, do you (or anyone else here) have experience with a Meridian 861v4 so you could tell me your thoughts between the Anthem D2v and Meridian 861V4 for audio (i.e. video is not an issue as a I have a Lumagen RadianceXE for that)...


TIA, again!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The only high-res digital shots I know of for the Anthem stuff are the beauty shots in the photo gallery of their PR company, Caster Communications.


And the only beauty shot of the D2v shows the standard wing handle configuration:

http://www.castercomm.com/gallery/hi...0-%20front.jpg 


And that one's actually got the D2 silk screening on the front (no Dolby Volume logo).


You'd probably have to massage that in Photoshop to remove the wing handles.


There IS a rear shot of the D2v, with no wing handles, but I don't know how useful that would be to you:

http://www.castercomm.com/gallery/hiRes/D2_v2_Rear.jpg 


Or you could start from this one, which is the D2v with the lid off:

http://www.castercomm.com/gallery/hi...20(Inside).jpg 


Your best bet might be to email Anthem and see if someone in marketing can forward you a hi-res digital image of the 17-1/4" D2v as a beauty shot.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan

I have just realized that my D2v I just acquired from a dealer's demo room was shipped near the time of the 2 differing version of 2.08. I can't tell which one it has, is there some way to know this? What was the problem that caused there to be a second 2.08 anyway? I just want to get the version right before I go further. Is there any harm in just re-loading the currently posted 2.08 version?


Also, I just received the ARC kit today for the D2v, and having never had ARC before on my old D2, I am starting from scratch with tuning of audio. One initial question is whether the D2V should be set with Front speakers of Large, Small or what? Or do these settings just get overwritten by ARC when the results are uploaded anyway? The manual seems to say to use "Small" as the speaker settings in most all cases, but that flies in the face of what I recall as best practice from long ago. Slightly confused there.


I appreciate the help. I have much learning about ARC to do.


----------



## jclem

Press the 'status' button on the front of the unit to see what version it has.


My understanding is that 2.08 is the real "safe" version. I believe there have been 'beta' versions 2.08 a thru f, all with their own issues. Go with the 2.08 unless you enjoy playing around and experimenting.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18258962
> 
> 
> Press the 'status' button on the front of the unit to see what version it has.
> 
> 
> My understanding is that 2.08 is the real "safe" version. I believe there have been 'beta' versions 2.08 a thru f, all with their own issues. Go with the 2.08 unless you enjoy playing around and experimenting.



Yeah, I know I'm running 2.08 (not a beta version), but if you recall there was some confusion because of some flaw the day that 2.08 came out, where a quick change was made and the corrected version was still called 2.08, the exact same. I just don't know what the flaw was and how to tell which one you have if you acquired your box like I just did as a used unit.


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18258125
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> IS ARO engaged on the Sub? What is the ELF dial setting?
> 
> 
> Alvin



I did run ARO and my e.l.f's ended up around -3 on both. Most other settings are off so that ARC can do it's thing--feeling that ARC is the more powerful and all-encompassing program. I monkeyed with setting polarity and phase and still am not really sure what I'm doing. I couldn't really hear or see on the RS meter much difference in all of the various settings that I tried. So, for now they are both set at '0'


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ManWithAPlan,

The production version of V2.08 is the later (better) version. They found and fixed a late bug before releasing it to the factory. So you are fine.


It is OK to install V2.08 on top of itself from the public download page, but you don't need to. You already have the correct version.


"Test" firmware V2.08e from the password protected download page includes the first cut at Dolby Volume. It is not yet ready for prime time.


ARC uses the Advanced speaker settings. It ignores and overwrites any Large/small settings you might be using now. You can get the equivalent of Large (no bass steering) in ARC by checking the Full Range box in the ARC Targets window after you Measure and before you Calculate. Most people should NOT do this, even if they have main speakers that can go quite low in frequency. If you tell ARC that you have no subwoofer, it will force LF/RF to be Full Range and steered bass and LFE will go to them instead.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18259021
> 
> 
> ManWithAPlan,
> 
> The production version of V2.08 is the later (better) version. They found and fixed a late bug before releasing it to the factory. So you are fine.
> 
> 
> It is OK to install V2.08 on top of itself from the public download page, but you don't need to. You already have the correct version.
> 
> 
> "Test" firmware V2.08e from the password protected download page includes the first cut at Dolby Volume. It is not yet ready for prime time.
> 
> 
> ARC uses the Advanced speaker settings. It ignores and overwrites any Large/small settings you might be using now. You can get the equivalent of Large (no bass steering) in ARC by checking the Full Range box in the ARC Targets window after you Measure and before you Calculate. Most people should NOT do this, even if they have main speakers that can go quite low in frequency. If you tell ARC that you have no subwoofer, it will force LF/RF to be Full Range and steered bass and LFE will go to them instead.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, much appreciated. I'll embark on the ARC now then  I have a 5.1 system with B&W 703's in the front, HTM4 center, a B&W sub and in-ceiling B&W 8 inch rounds for surround speakers. I will leave the large/small setting alone and just let ARC do its thing then as you suggest. Even though the 703's are full range front speakers, I will take the suggestion on that too and let ARC distribute the lower frequencies to the very capable sub at whatever crossover it determines is right. I should probably try to set the phase/polarity of the sub first before ARC is run, right? I've read some of the recent threads on it, but don't really understand how to set phase or listen for it, etc. Tips on that?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There are tips on setting sub Phase in the Setup section in the first post of this thread. If you have only one sub, you can set Phase after setting up ARC if you prefer.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18256703
> 
> 
> Your Measured sub curve definitely looks weird, but it appears ARC has handled that. [If you could lop off that Measured sub peak at 70Hz, and lift the volume for the sub by 5dB things might look more reasonable. That peak may be a room resonance. I don't know what your "bad" sub results used to look like, so what you have now may indeed be your best bet. In any event, ARC is doing good things with it.]
> 
> 
> ARC is using the high crossover for LF/RF to force a roll off of their unwanted bass peaks. The crossover is an easy tool for ARC to use to sweep a problem like that under the rug. I can only assume that in the past ARC didn't feel confident enough in your sub's higher frequencies so it couldn't do that.
> 
> 
> But there's no reason I can see why you can't return the LF/RF cutoff/crossover back to 60Hz and see what happens. ARC will be using more sophisticated resources to tame those Measured bass peaks in LF/RF, so check all the speaker curves to make sure you don't get additional residual errors due to ARC running out of resources. But since you've left Max EQ Frequency at the default 5KHz, that shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> --Bob



I am continuing to play around with my subs. I think this one looks better than the first one. However, ARC is still crossing over my mains at 115 hz. I need to figure out why it's doing that. It may be because of the null at 100 hz. Anyway, if you would please take a look once again and let me know what you think, I would truly appreciate it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18259157
> 
> 
> I am continuing to play around with my subs. I think this one looks better than the first one. However, ARC is still crossing over my mains at 115 hz. I need to figure out why it's doing that. It may be because of the null at 100 hz. Anyway, if you would please take a look once again and let me know what you think, I would truly appreciate it.



This sub result looks very good indeed. Time to declare victory as regards the sub.


I think the problem with the fronts is the resonance peak at 35Hz. ARC is using the high crossover to clamp down on that. If you reposition the fronts to reduce that hot bass ARC will likely find the lower crossover on its own. But you can just change that cutoff Target to 60Hz yourself, and the result should be fine.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18259254
> 
> 
> This sub result looks very good indeed. Time to declare victory as regards the sub.
> 
> 
> I think the problem with the fronts is the resonance peak at 35Hz. ARC is using the high crossover to clamp down on that. If you reposition the fronts to reduce that hot bass ARC will likely find the lower crossover on its own. But you can just change that cutoff Target to 60Hz yourself, and the result should be fine.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks again Bob for taking a look at my measurements. Unfortunately, I have moved the fronts as much as I possibly can. I can't adjust them anymore. So, I will have to live with the peak at 35 hz. I'm going to trust what ARC has done and listen to this for a while to see how I like it. If I don't like it, I will adjust the cross overs for the fronts to be 60 hz. Once again, I appreciate you taking a look and providing your advice.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18259008
> 
> 
> I did run ARO and my e.l.f's ended up around -3 on both. Most other settings are off so that ARC can do it's thing--feeling that ARC is the more powerful and all-encompassing program. I monkeyed with setting polarity and phase and still am not really sure what I'm doing. I couldn't really hear or see on the RS meter much difference in all of the various settings that I tried. So, for now they are both set at '0'



I think you might try an ARC run with the ARO and ELF off(OdB) and see what it does to your bottom end. Your subs are capable of better LF response than ARC is reporting. It might be that ARO is taken at single location and ARC averages multiple listening positions.


----------



## Joelc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18258707
> 
> 
> The only high-res digital shots I know of for the Anthem stuff are the beauty shots in the photo gallery of their PR company, Caster Communications.
> 
> 
> And the only beauty shot of the D2v shows the standard wing handle configuration:
> 
> http://www.castercomm.com/gallery/hi...0-%20front.jpg
> 
> 
> And that one's actually got the D2 silk screening on the front (no Dolby Volume logo).
> 
> 
> You'd probably have to massage that in Photoshop to remove the wing handles.
> 
> 
> There IS a rear shot of the D2v, with no wing handles, but I don't know how useful that would be to you:
> 
> http://www.castercomm.com/gallery/hiRes/D2_v2_Rear.jpg
> 
> 
> Or you could start from this one, which is the D2v with the lid off:
> 
> http://www.castercomm.com/gallery/hi...20(Inside).jpg
> 
> 
> Your best bet might be to email Anthem and see if someone in marketing can forward you a hi-res digital image of the 17-1/4" D2v as a beauty shot.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, appreciate the fast response as well as the information...the bad news, what I am looking for is NOT readily available...the good news, my inability to find it was not a failure on my part


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18215802
> 
> 
> Good tip! I haven't tried this, but it may also work to simply switch the sub Polarity setting in the Anthem and then adjusting Phase for the null. If Phase and Polarity are independent in the Anthem, and I believe they are, then this will be the correct Phase once you return Polarity back to its normal position.........
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I happened to have an outboard SMS-1 unit which I used to couple to my ML Decent i Sub. I was wondering if correct Phase and Polarity settings between the Sub and both the Fronts may be achieved by simply connecting the SMS-1 LFE Ouputs (4 available) to these speakers and watching the plot on the screen for maximum output while playing the test tone.


Ben


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18257593
> 
> 
> Paradigm is the parent company of Sonic Frontiers, aka Anthem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> The Paradigm "Perfect Bass Kit" (PBK) software for some of their subwoofers is the subwoofer portion of ARC re-jiggered to run on the processing hardware inside the subwoofer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...


do any of us have experience with it?

Bob, do you have any 'regards' for how effective it might be, in view of its relationship to ARC??

Many thanks

walt


----------



## Texas steve

Gentelmen, Im still tweaking after my sub25 install. BOB, I know you were very familiar with my old Muse 18 and its problem. So in "test 3" I implemented the same settings as were with my Muse sub (just lowered the gain from 3 to 2)


In ARC 341024 file attached i left it with what ARC suggested (except I ran max eq to 20K and gain to 3.0)


Comments/suggestions please. By the way the Sub 25 sound fabulous. I hear a octave lower than before. Ran the sub with 240VAC dedicated line

 

ARC 34102B ARC file.doc 265.5k . file

 

Test 3 results.doc 262.5k . file


----------



## TJG55




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/18259888
> 
> 
> do any of us have experience with it?
> 
> Bob, do you have any 'regards' for how effective it might be, in view of its relationship to ARC??
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> walt



Have done multiple ARC setups and several PBK setups. The PBK works the same as ARC without dealing with the other speakers, as one might expect. Simply, the PBK is a subset (no pun intended) of ARC. Quite effective, again as one might expect.

TJG


----------



## Texas steve

I only have one sub (Sub 25) and did PBK first then ARC. Dont know for sure, but I think running PBK first will hone in on the sub best, then ARC the whole set up. Just a un-qualfied opinion. The program looks and feels like ARC, Just focused on the lows












> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/18260416
> 
> 
> Have done multiple ARC setups and several PBK setups. The PBK works the same as ARC without dealing with the other speakers, as one might expect. Simply, the PBK is a subset (no pun intended) of ARC. Quite effective, again as one might expect.
> 
> TJG


----------



## TJG55

S

makes sense, use PBK resources in sub to correct sub response curve first, then ARC will use less of its resources in the sub region and can apply more to higher ranges


----------



## DaveBoswell

Ninja12 - you might be experiencing the same measured rumble in LF and RF which I noticed a few weeks back which was resolved by turning off the furnace. See attachment below for before and after measurements - all that was changed from one measurement to the next was turning off the furnace!


In case you're wondering, furnace is a relatively new Carrier set on low fan - and sits just behind a pretty decently soundproofed wall in back left corner of basement HT. Interestingly, the peak at 39Hz evident in the LF and RF does not show up in the Sub measurements - perhaps there is some compensation for white noise (the manual says something like that) which is not being applied in the same way for all speakers.

 

Furnace on off rumble at 39Hz.pdf 46.771484375k . file


----------



## Texas steve

Amazing what ARC will pick up isint it! I have learned to:

1. turn off home phone

2. turn off cell phone

3. stop all clocks (gongs are a killer)

4. put my dogs in the garage

5. learn the flying pattern of our local airport (amazing how a airplane will make a "mark" on ARC

6. Turn off the AC

7. Turn off any ceiling fans

And finally - Give the wife a Jack Daniels Manhattan and then your good to go!

































> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaveBoswell* /forum/post/18261704
> 
> 
> Ninja12 - you might be experiencing the same measured rumble in LF and RF which I noticed a few weeks back which was resolved by turning off the furnace. See attachment below for before and after measurements - all that was changed from one measurement to the next was turning off the furnace!
> 
> 
> In case you're wondering, furnace is a relatively new Carrier set on low fan - and sits just behind a pretty decently soundproofed wall in back left corner of basement HT. Interestingly, the peak at 39Hz evident in the LF and RF does not show up in the Sub measurements - perhaps there is some compensation for white noise (the manual says something like that) which is not being applied in the same way for all speakers.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18259994
> 
> 
> Gentelmen, Im still tweaking after my sub25 install. BOB, I know you were very familiar with my old Muse 18 and its problem. So in "test 3" I implemented the same settings as were with my Muse sub (just lowered the gain from 3 to 2)
> 
> 
> In ARC 341024 file attached i left it with what ARC suggested (except I ran max eq to 20K and gain to 3.0)
> 
> 
> Comments/suggestions please. By the way the Sub 25 sound fabulous. I hear a octave lower than before. Ran the sub with 240VAC dedicated line



Your sub result looks a lot like mine before I moved the sub around. I hate to sound like a broken record about this, but your 100 Hz region is at 65 dB and

your 50Hz is at 82 dB. This is a big drop for a sub like that. Your measurement looks very weird. I'm not sure about the capablility of your fronts but it seems your sub is being called on to do less than it should. Perhaps Bob can clarify or you can as to why this looks good to you. I'm very curious.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18259994
> 
> 
> Gentelmen, Im still tweaking after my sub25 install. BOB, I know you were very familiar with my old Muse 18 and its problem. So in "test 3" I implemented the same settings as were with my Muse sub (just lowered the gain from 3 to 2)
> 
> 
> In ARC 341024 file attached i left it with what ARC suggested (except I ran max eq to 20K and gain to 3.0)
> 
> 
> Comments/suggestions please. By the way the Sub 25 sound fabulous. I hear a octave lower than before. Ran the sub with 240VAC dedicated line



Both of these charts show a very rapid roll off at higher frequencies for your new sub. It looks like you have the internal crossover still active inside the sub, and that it is set to quite a low frequency. This needs to be fixed before you can get a real feel for how the new sub works in your system.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

JR

too right. Sub definitely needs some help, if this is indeed a Sub 25, something is really wrong. Obvious problem could be caused by sub xover in line.

TJG


----------



## Texas steve

The crossover in the Sub 25 is set to minimum. Im sure you not saying I should set it to 80 or 100 I can set it to 30+/- or as high as 150Hz ? Only thing I can think of is PBK kit ARC did someting. Ill reset with PBK to factory default, then Ill rea-ARC do its thing, then we shall see.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18262012
> 
> 
> Both of these charts show a very rapid roll off at higher frequencies for your new sub. It looks like you have the internal crossover still active inside the sub, and that it is set to quite a low frequency. This needs to be fixed before you can get a real feel for how the new sub works in your system.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18262029
> 
> 
> The crossover in the Sub 25 is set to minimum. Im sure you not saying I should set it to 80 or 100?



Well that's your problem right there!


If you can't completely disable the sub's internal crossover, what you need to do is crank it up the HIGHEST frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. The crossover in the sub keeps the sub from reproducing input frequencies above the crossover frequency.


If you can disable or bypass the crossover entirely, that's even better.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Well I am now offically a member of the "dumb ass club"!







Not in the manual, but written on the back (hard to see in current position) of they freq knob it says "bypass"!! What a bunch of ^%$#!


Will bypass, and re-Arc!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18262044
> 
> 
> Well that's your problem right there!
> 
> 
> If you can't completely disable the sub's internal crossover, what you need to do is crank it up the HIGHEST frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. The crossover in the sub keeps the sub from reproducing input frequencies above the crossover frequency.
> 
> 
> If you can disable or bypass the crossover entirely, that's even better.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Ok guys what a difference. Please help me, and review, I think the sub is perfect now.


Should I lower it from 120-80?


Only thing I changed from the ARC settings is gain to 2.0 and Max eq to 20K

 

ARC Run 3610.doc 262k . file


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18262274
> 
> 
> Ok guys what a difference. Please help me, and review, I think the sub is perfect now.
> 
> 
> Should I lower it from 120-80?
> 
> 
> Only thing I changed from the ARC settings is gain to 2.0 and Max eq to 20K



Well I'd say it is exactly that, Perfect. Looks identical to mine, but I don't have the sub 25. Now listen and tell us what you think. Take some material with slamming punch and let it rip. You'll be watching all your movies again









John


----------



## Texas steve

Yep listining now! Sounds great!. Any comment on changing the subwoofer crossover from the ARC calc to th 80? What would be the sound difference?


Jayray, I I recall you work on Organs correct?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18262414
> 
> 
> Well I'd say it is exactly that, Perfect. Looks identical to mine, but I don't have the sub 25. Now listen and tell us what you think. Take some material with slamming punch and let it rip. You'll be watching all your movies again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18262274
> 
> 
> Ok guys what a difference. Please help me, and review, I think the sub is perfect now.
> 
> 
> Should I lower it from 120-80?
> 
> 
> Only thing I changed from the ARC settings is gain to 2.0 and Max eq to 20K



The sub is now fine as is. No changes needed. Keep in mind that the 120Hz is the Room Correction "cutoff". To see the crossover ARC is using for the sub you need to look at what it has Uploaded into Setup. In any event, there's no point in fiddling with it, as the sub is correct now.


Your Center speaker is the one that needs attention.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Yea, I know, I notice if I change the crossover in ARC to 40 (vs 60) it fixes that dip at 100, but I think your more concerned with the hf correct? By the way the center is the same mfg as all the others. I even used a lazer pointer to be sure its amied at the right place!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18262432
> 
> 
> The sub is now fine as is. No changes needed. Keep in mind that the 120Hz is the Room Correction "cutoff". To see the crossover ARC is using for the sub you need to look at what it has Uploaded into Setup. In any event, there's no point in fiddling with it, as the sub is correct now.
> 
> 
> Your Center speaker is the one that needs attention.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Moving the Center crossover also moves its Room Gain hump which may be one reason you are seeing the improvement. However, try not to lower the crossover too far for Center as you probably want your new subwoofer to handle a good deal of the bass that is normally found in the Center channel. I would think 40Hz is the lower limit, and I'd be happier with 45 or 50.


Check that you haven't blown the tweeter in your Center speaker.


ETA: You might also try RAISING the crossover for Center to eliminate that dip. But don't go much above 90Hz or you'll start steering dialog to the sub, which is not good.

--Bob


----------



## Summit HDTV

Hi All,


I've been lurking on this thread for over one year learning about ARC about our own personal D1 Anthem processor. Needless to say this thread and its participants including the incomparable Bob are an excellent resource for Anthem products.


I am pleased to announce Summit HDTV is now an authorized custom dealer for Anthem and Paradigm products in the southeast Michigan area. If I can be of service to any of you in the local area please let me know.


Thank you.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaveBoswell* /forum/post/18261704
> 
> 
> Ninja12 - you might be experiencing the same measured rumble in LF and RF which I noticed a few weeks back which was resolved by turning off the furnace. See attachment below for before and after measurements - all that was changed from one measurement to the next was turning off the furnace!
> 
> 
> In case you're wondering, furnace is a relatively new Carrier set on low fan - and sits just behind a pretty decently soundproofed wall in back left corner of basement HT. Interestingly, the peak at 39Hz evident in the LF and RF does not show up in the Sub measurements - perhaps there is some compensation for white noise (the manual says something like that) which is not being applied in the same way for all speakers.



Thanks for the response Dave. No, I am not experiencing any external noise. When I do my measurements, the house is completely quiet because I normally do them late at night or when I am home alone, and I make sure everything is off such as furnance, TV, fans, etc. I really think it's a location problem which is bad for me because I really can't adjust my furniture. I have tried moving the speakers further apart and closer together; but, that didn't help either. So, it looks like I am going to have to live with it unless I can think of something else to try.


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks Bob will try alternatives and check ribbon tweeter as well.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18262463
> 
> 
> Moving the Center crossover also moves its Room Gain hump which may be one reason you are seeing the improvement. However, try not to lower the crossover too far for Center as you probably want your new subwoofer to handle a good deal of the bass that is normally found in the Center channel. I would think 40Hz is the lower limit, and I'd be happier with 45 or 50.
> 
> 
> Check that you haven't blown the tweeter in your Center speaker.
> 
> 
> ETA: You might also try RAISING the crossover for Center to eliminate that dip. But don't go much above 90Hz or you'll start steering dialog to the sub, which is not good.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18262569
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response Dave. No, I am not experiencing any external noise. When I do my measurements, the house is completely quiet because I normally do them late at night or when I am home alone, and I make sure everything is off such as furnance, TV, fans, etc. I really think it's a location problem which is bad for me because I really can't adjust my furniture. I have tried moving the speakers further apart and closer together; but, that didn't help either. So, it looks like I am going to have to live with it unless I can think of something else to try.



At these frequencies, the resonance coupling can even be vertical. If the speakers have optional feet try raising/lowering the speakers.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18262618
> 
> 
> At these frequencies, the resonance coupling can even be vertical. If the speakers have optional feet try raising/lowering the speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I tried that too. I just had the speakers sitting on the floor initially, then, I installed the spikes. I still get the 35 hz peak. They are 4' from the front wall and 3' from the side wall. Since the frequency is so low, it's going to be pretty difficult to deal with. I'm pretty much at a lost of what to do next to try to tame the peak at 35 hz.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18262707
> 
> 
> Yes, I tried that too. I just had the speakers sitting on the floor initially, then, I installed the spikes. I still get the 35 hz peak. They are 4' from the front wall and 3' from the side wall. Since the frequency is so low, it's going to be pretty difficult to deal with. I'm pretty much at a lost of what to do next to try to tame the peak at 35 hz.



Well it is worth trying as you've done, but at this point I think you should consider the problem intractable and just be happy that ARC has it well under control!


So really all you need to do is give ARC a helping hand in selecting the correct crossover frequency despite that bass swing in LF/RF. Just change the LF/RF cutoff Target to 60Hz (which has worked well for you in the past), re-Calculate, and see how the curves look. There's really no down-side to this if the Calculated results look clean on all the speakers.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18262738
> 
> 
> Well it is worth trying as you've done, but at this point I think you should consider the problem intractable and just be happy that ARC has it well under control!
> 
> 
> So really all you need to do is give ARC a helping hand in selecting the correct crossover frequency despite that bass swing in LF/RF. Just change the LF/RF cutoff Target to 60Hz (which has worked well for you in the past), re-Calculate, and see how the curves look. There's really no down-side to this if the Calculated results look clean on all the speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I agree. I want to thank you again for all of the advice and help that you have given me. One more thing, I did a measurement early this morning since my wife had to leave early this morning for a hair appointment. This time, ARC set my cross overs to 85 for my mains instead of 115. Anyway, I don't think I have any major problems from the my measurements. So, I will just enjoy what ARC has come up for me to use. I might change the cross overs after I listen for a while.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18258522
> 
> 
> Yes, with a red video board, even as a replacement, you are good to go for "test" V1.47f.
> 
> 
> By now you must know that you have a ground loop (the slowly rising horizontal video interference -- it rises because the true refresh rate of video is 59.94 Hz and the power line interference -- the ground loop -- is slightly faster at 60Hz). These can be a real nuisance to deal with. It wouldn't surprise me to learn that some of your HDMI handshake issues are related to signal noise from that ground loop, even though the interference doesn't appear on screen after the HDMI handshake settles down.
> 
> 
> If you would like to take another stab at eliminating that video interference there are some things you can try. The first, of course is to disconnect the cable feed between the wall and your DCX box -- with the DCX now connected via component to the D2. If the video interference goes away, then you know it is coming into your system on the shield of that cable TV feed -- the single most common source of such problems. There are ways to fix that.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob I have tried that already and that was not it (the cable line disconnect). The other HDMI issue I have that I didnt mention before is that very often (at least once or twice per viewing) when I switch between 480i channels to 1080i channels etc. the aspect ration get screwed up. i.e. the hd 16 x 9 channel gets squeezed into a 4:30 aspect ratio. OR the when i switch to a 4:3 480i channel the 4:30 image is narrower (form left to right) than it should be... the black bars are wider on each side and the image gets cut off. The only way to fix this is to then switch source and back again or sometimes have to power on and off. So in sum, either I do not get a picture... anthem says "no video feed" or the aspect issue props up. Between the two I am going crazy... I basically cross my fingers and pray every time I change the channel.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/18262801
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob I have tried that already and that was not it (the cable line disconnect). The other HDMI issue I have that I didnt mention before is that very often (at least once or twice per viewing) when I switch between 480i channels to 1080i channels etc. the aspect ration get screwed up. i.e. the hd 16 x 9 channel gets squeezed into a 4:30 aspect ratio. OR the when i switch to a 4:3 480i channel the 4:30 image is narrower (form left to right) than it should be... the black bars are wider on each side and the image gets cut off. The only way to fix this is to then switch source and back again or sometimes have to power on and off. So in sum, either I do not get a picture... anthem says "no video feed" or the aspect issue props up. Between the two I am going crazy... I basically cross my fingers and pray every time I change the channel.



I think you'll find the aspect ratio nuisance fixed in V1.47f. I've lost track of what fixes are in there, but I think that's one of them.


Be sure your set top box is set to NOT add Pillar Box bars when playing 480 SD content (it will likely call this something like stretched output when really it is doing nothing), and that the D2 is set for Video Source Adjust > Scale Out = Pillar Box.


-----------------------------------------------


There's a Hum FAQ in the Audio Theory forum here which may have useful tips on finding your ground loop.


Keep in mind what you are seeing as video interference is actually power line garbage moving between your boxes on the cable shields of the cables connecting them. Among other things, that means the source of the interference can be something that has nothing to do with video such as your audio power amp.


Basically you have to disconnect everything and then start reconnecting things one at a time to try to find the minimum set of interconnects that makes the interference appear. Now keep in mind the last item you add -- the one that makes the interference appear -- may very well NOT be the source. It may simply be the item that was needed so that the garbage could find a path to ground, i.e., so that the interference current can flow. But once you've got a minimal set of connections that makes the interfence happen, you know the source is FROM ONE OF THOSE, just not necessarily the last one you added. So now you start REMOVING connections from that set, one at a time, replacing them with connections from some other device if necessary to see video. The idea is to do this in a logical pattern which lets you isolate which connections from which device are the source of the garbage. You can use the internally generated video in the D2 (e.g, Video Source Adjust Patterns) to get video without having to have ANY of your sources connected. And keep in mind that you may have MORE THAN ONE source of the garbage, so keep an open mind as you are moving logically through the combination of connections. Another useful trick is to remember that Optical Digital audio cable does not pass electricity, so an Optical audio connection can not pass the garbage.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18262422
> 
> 
> Yep listining now! Sounds great!. Any comment on changing the subwoofer crossover from the ARC calc to th 80? What would be the sound difference?
> 
> 
> Jayray, I I recall you work on Organs correct?



Must be someone else. Only instrument I have experience with is a guitar









Glad to see the sub is earining it's pay.

John


----------



## GoND

So I've been searching forever, but can't find the answer. Can you guys tell me what, on my AVM 50, the display should be saying when I play a blu-ray on my PS3 with PCM hi-res audio??? I'm getting "5.1 + PLL2" or something like that. The PS3 says it's outputting DTS HD MA 5.1, but my old Onkyo 885 said "multi PCM" on the display, did I do something wrong hooking up the Anthem?!? Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GoND* /forum/post/18263472
> 
> 
> So I've been searching forever, but can't find the answer. Can you guys tell me what, on my AVM 50, the display should be saying when I play a blu-ray on my PS3 with PCM hi-res audio??? I'm getting "5.1 + PLL2" or something like that. The PS3 says it's outputting DTS HD MA 5.1, but my old Onkyo 885 said "multi PCM" on the display, did I do something wrong hooking up the Anthem?!? Thanks for the help guys.



Press Select several times on your AVM 50 remote and the info displayed will tell you what is coming in from the PS3. If you have the PS3 set up correctly the D2 status displays will tell you that it is receiving PCM, usually at 48Khz, and that 5.1 input channels are active.


The message you reported is the audio surround mode in effect. If you have 7.1 speakers and have selected PLIIx as your surround processing mode for that it will tell you that you have 5.1 input channels and PLIIx is working to raise that to 7.1 speakers.

--Bob


----------



## mkaye

i had a ground loop problem (cable box), even though i had grounded the incoming cable to the same ground point in the electrical box (i never understood why until...)

i bought a monster noise suppression box and the AC OK light did not light up

i checked the plug polarity and found hot & neutral reversed (took a day to empty my rack to get at the plug & fix it - of course i gave the guy who did it a slap - OW!, that hurt)

so, do some basic checking first


mark



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18262983
> 
> 
> I think you'll find the aspect ratio nuisance fixed in V1.47f. I've lost track of what fixes are in there, but I think that's one of them.
> 
> 
> Be sure your set top box is set to NOT add Pillar Box bars when playing 480 SD content (it will likely call this something like stretched output when really it is doing nothing), and that the D2 is set for Video Source Adjust > Scale Out = Pillar Box.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> There's a Hum FAQ in the Audio Theory forum here which may have useful tips on finding your ground loop.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind what you are seeing as video interference is actually power line garbage moving between your boxes on the cable shields of the cables connecting them. Among other things, that means the source of the interference can be something that has nothing to do with video such as your audio power amp.
> 
> 
> Basically you have to disconnect everything and then start reconnecting things one at a time to try to find the minimum set of interconnects that makes the interference appear. Now keep in mind the last item you add -- the one that makes the interference appear -- may very well NOT be the source. It may simply be the item that was needed so that the garbage could find a path to ground, i.e., so that the interference current can flow. But once you've got a minimal set of connections that makes the interfence happen, you know the source is FROM ONE OF THOSE, just not necessarily the last one you added. So now you start REMOVING connections from that set, one at a time, replacing them with connections from some other device if necessary to see video. The idea is to do this in a logical pattern which lets you isolate which connections from which device are the source of the garbage. You can use the internally generated video in the D2 (e.g, Video Source Adjust Patterns) to get video without having to have ANY of your sources connected. And keep in mind that you may have MORE THAN ONE source of the garbage, so keep an open mind as you are moving logically through the combination of connections. Another useful trick is to remember that Optical Digital audio cable does not pass electricity, so an Optical audio connection can not pass the garbage.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaveBoswell* /forum/post/18261704
> 
> 
> Ninja12 - you might be experiencing the same measured rumble in LF and RF which I noticed a few weeks back which was resolved by turning off the furnace. See attachment below for before and after measurements - all that was changed from one measurement to the next was turning off the furnace!
> 
> 
> In case you're wondering, furnace is a relatively new Carrier set on low fan - and sits just behind a pretty decently soundproofed wall in back left corner of basement HT. Interestingly, the peak at 39Hz evident in the LF and RF does not show up in the Sub measurements - perhaps there is some compensation for white noise (the manual says something like that) which is not being applied in the same way for all speakers.



Dave,

Never thought we could use ARC to correct our appliances







Great illustration of the benefit of having charts to compare each time we measure.

John


----------



## diamar

So my D2v is relatively new (just got it in January), and I re-ran ARC today because I made some changes to my room and system. I noticed for the first time that the standard level calibration menu won't generate test tones for my center or surround speakers.


The speakers work fine, and ARC generates sweep tones for them. I seem to recall seeing something about this in the prior 962 pages, but can't find it to save my life. Any ideas? Should I just contact Anthem?


It also seems that ARC ends up settling on a volume level that's too high (like 85dB), despite the fact that I've level-set my front left speaker per Bob's instructions. I wonder if these problems are related. Thoughts?


----------



## tngiloy

Bob and others,


A couple pages back you were discussing multiple subs and possible phase/polarity problems.


I have 2 subs and the ARC graph, I think, Shows a drop @30-50hz.


I also have a drop at @50-150 on my RF. This is room related and I have added bass traps and repositioned- this is the best it can be until I can afford a 'theater'. I have fixed the room as much as the wife will allow. The targets graph shows the music room gain at 0, and I would like to raise it close to the movie gain, but it leaves a gap between the target and calculated lines, as seen on the movie graph.


My questions are;

1-is there a problem with the subs that I should try davoes solution for?

2- If so, will correcting the subs help the ARC RF speaker correction?


I would just as soon not do the davoe maneuver, but if it would help I will.


Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/18265887
> 
> 
> Bob and others,
> 
> 
> A couple pages back you were discussing multiple subs and possible phase/polarity problems.
> 
> 
> I have 2 subs and the ARC graph, I think, Shows a drop @30-50hz.
> 
> 
> I also have a drop at @50-150 on my RF. This is room related and I have added bass traps and repositioned- this is the best it can be until I can afford a 'theater'. I have fixed the room as much as the wife will allow. The targets graph shows the music room gain at 0, and I would like to raise it close to the movie gain, but it leaves a gap between the target and calculated lines, as seen on the movie graph.
> 
> 
> My questions are;
> 
> 1-is there a problem with the subs that I should try davoes solution for?
> 
> 2- If so, will correcting the subs help the ARC RF speaker correction?
> 
> 
> I would just as soon not do the davoe maneuver, but if it would help I will.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



Adjusting sub Phase gets each sub in phase with the main speakers through the crossover region. Problems in that relationship won't show up in the charts since ARC doesn't hear the sub ever playing while a main speaker is playing. So yes it is good to adjust sub phase. Get each sub in proper Polarity/Phase with, say, LF, and then they will also be in proper phase with each other. Any adjustments you make will effect the sub curve since you have two subs, so you will need to re-Measure. But your dip at 30-50Hz is likely a room null and so adjusting sub phase probably won't alter it. That said, ARC has it completely under control so no worries.


While you are at it, double check that you have disabled the internal crossover in both subs (or cranked it up to the highest frequency). Your red Measured curves for the subs looks like you have an 80Hz crossover active in them. This is important because your Rear surround speakers need support a little higher up than your sub is currently going.


----------------------------------


The dip in RF is probably a speaker positioning issue, but you can improve ARC's correction of it either by lowering Room Gain (compare to your Music results for example), or by raising the LF/RF cutoff/crossover a bit -- perhaps to 70Hz. I'd probably start with the crossover.


---------------------------------


Your Measured dips around 12KHz are suspiciously similar from speaker to speaker so you might have a mic issue up there (either the mic itself or the way you are using it). In either case, try lowering Max EQ Frequency below that -- say to 10KHz -- and give that a listen to see if you actually prefer the correction you now have ARC doing up there or not.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diamar* /forum/post/18265618
> 
> 
> So my D2v is relatively new (just got it in January), and I re-ran ARC today because I made some changes to my room and system. I noticed for the first time that the standard level calibration menu won't generate test tones for my center or surround speakers.
> 
> 
> The speakers work fine, and ARC generates sweep tones for them. I seem to recall seeing something about this in the prior 962 pages, but can't find it to save my life. Any ideas? Should I just contact Anthem?
> 
> 
> It also seems that ARC ends up settling on a volume level that's too high (like 85dB), despite the fact that I've level-set my front left speaker per Bob's instructions. I wonder if these problems are related. Thoughts?



On the test tones, make sure you have the current firmware installed (V2.08). Press Select once on the remote to see the firmware version in the display. [NOTE: There is a bug that screws up the test tones in the "test" V2.08e firmware. Use the "official" V2.08 firmware instead.]


Make sure you have the Center and Surround speakers enabled in your Speaker Configuration.


If your Center and Surrounds are playing through one power amp, and your LF/RF through a different one, make sure the amp for the Center and Surrounds is actually turning on. If you are using a 12-volt trigger to bring it out of standby that might not be set up correctly. (An easy test is to temporarily move the Center output wire at the back of the D2v to the LF output of the D2v and see if the LF test tone produces audio on the Center speaker.)


If you have a 5.1 speaker configuration, keep in mind that your Surround speakers are always SIDE surrounds no matter how far back you have placed them. Check the output jacks you are using to make sure you don't have them wired to the REAR outputs. Similarly, make sure you have the Center output connected to the correct jack (Center 1).


If these tips don't lead to an easy fix, then give Anthem tech support a call.


----------------------------------------


Just lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level to correct the level of your ARC solution. You've likely been bitten by the 6dB bug we've discussed here several times. Also make sure the volume trim ARC is Uploading for your sub is reasonably close to 0dB -- adjust it's built-in volume knob if necessary.

--Bob


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/17960668
> 
> 
> Hey, Bob!
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50v running v2.08 firmware.
> 
> 
> Never have been able to get the Anthem to accept HDMI from the AppleTV. About to try again tonight using new cables (Audioquest). Normally, though, I get either no picture or a solid red one.
> 
> 
> Annoyingly, since upgrading to v2.08, the picture from AppleTV now flickers intermittently via component unless I change its output resolution from 720p (preferred) to 1080i (not as good).
> 
> 
> I have been playing around with the video settings on the Anthem, and the Roku player works most of the time now, although for a while I got a solid green screen and the LED display read "VGA." Now I either get a picture (80% of the time) or I don't get anything (20%). Turning everything off and then back on usually fixes things.



Things have worsened for the Roku player via HDMI. Although it does work occassionally, most of the time (80%) the screen is either all blue or all black and the LED display reads VGA. I would love to hear whether anyone has gotten their Anthem to play nice with Roku or Apple TV via HDMI and if so what settings they used.


I have to say my feelings about Anthem are mixed these days. It could use a little more stability and an improved ability to play with others. Tech support has been so so, as well. Feel like I'm on my own with this thing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/18266253
> 
> 
> Things have worsened for the Roku player via HDMI. Although it does work occassionally, most of the time (80%) the screen is either all blue or all black and the LED display reads VGA. I would love to hear whether anyone has gotten their Anthem to play nice with Roku or Apple TV via HDMI and if so what settings they used.
> 
> 
> I have to say my feelings about Anthem are mixed these days. It could use a little more stability and an improved ability to play with others. Tech support has been so so, as well. Feel like I'm on my own with this thing.



Talk to tech support about trying the current "test" V2.08e firmware. (You will likely want to turn Dolby Volume OFF for each source at least to begin.) The "e" release doesn't include any video fixes, but some WERE incorporated in the earlier "test" V2.08a release that may help with your issues.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:


Why does ARC give you the option of 1 or 2 subs if it can't see or use the second sub in its calculations? What is it for? Reason I ask is I have 2 subs and was the one a few pages back that used davoes method for sub phase alignment.


David


----------



## davoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/18265887
> 
> 
> Bob and others,
> 
> 
> A couple pages back you were discussing multiple subs and possible phase/polarity problems.
> 
> 
> I have 2 subs and the ARC graph, I think, Shows a drop @30-50hz.
> 
> 
> I also have a drop at @50-150 on my RF. This is room related and I have added bass traps and repositioned- this is the best it can be until I can afford a 'theater'. I have fixed the room as much as the wife will allow. The targets graph shows the music room gain at 0, and I would like to raise it close to the movie gain, but it leaves a gap between the target and calculated lines, as seen on the movie graph.
> 
> 
> My questions are;
> 
> 1-is there a problem with the subs that I should try davoes solution for?
> 
> 2- If so, will correcting the subs help the ARC RF speaker correction?
> 
> 
> I would just as soon not do the davoe maneuver, but if it would help I will.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



I agree with Bob, that sub curve is more likely a result of poor sub position (room null). The sub phase shouldn't affect the curve. I tried three sub positions until I found one that gave a flat curve through the 25-85Hz region. One of my sub positions yielded an unattractive curve just like the one you posted. I found, for my room, the sub liked the corner. It wasn't easy moving that 125lb. sub around by myself, but it was worth the effort.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18266845
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Why does ARC give you the option of 1 or 2 subs if it can't see or use the second sub in its calculations? What is it for? Reason I ask is I have 2 subs and was the one a few pages back that used davoes method for sub phase alignment.
> 
> 
> David



It's kind of silly, actually. The 2 Sub option simply alters the volume on both sub outputs so that you can use the same volume trim settings in the Level Calibration menu. Since there are actually up to 4 sub outputs (2 RCA and 2 XLR) even that was not really complete.


Anyway, ARC already accounts for this, so you must use the 1 Sub option if you have a subwoofer and want to use ARC, regardless of how many subs you have. That way, the volume trims ARC uploads for your sub combo won't be incorrectly altered by the 2 Sub setting. Similarly, you won't get good results with the "super" sub option that sends bass to BOTH the main speakers and the sub. Stick with 1 Sub (for both Measurement and normal listening) and let ARC do its thing.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

OK...so when I'm setting the subwoofer reference levels to 0dB in the settings menu before I ARC and adjust the gain knob on the back of my sub to 75dB, I must do this with one sub only, turning off the 2nd one?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18264878
> 
> 
> Dave,
> 
> Never thought we could use ARC to correct our appliances
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great illustration of the benefit of having charts to compare each time we measure.
> 
> John



There are lots of rumble sources down in the subsonics!










Pity you can't just Measure with it on and let ARC remove the unwanted output. (That won't work because the output is not driven by the source content, i.e., it is a constant regardless of the volume of 39Hz present in the actual content.)


And you can't use ARC to find just the rumble sources (e.g., power the sub off and look at the Measured curves) because it will reject the sub input if it doesn't hear reasonable results across the frequency range.


On a related note, I discovered that I have a closet that eats 50Hz. Open the closet door and all the 50Hz goes in there to die. I had some real head scratching over differences in Measured curves before I figured that one out.


I suspect we are eventually going to learn some things like this about treble frequencies that will explain some of the puzzles we've seen up there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18266968
> 
> 
> OK...so when I'm setting the subwoofer reference levels to 0dB in the settings menu before I ARC and adjust the gain knob on the back of my sub to 75dB, I must do this with one sub only, turning off the 2nd one?



Kind of. What you do is emulate what the 2 Sub setting does:


1) Set 1 Sub. Zero out the Level Calibration volume trims (all of them) and then set Test Level to produce 75dB (test tone comes from LF speaker).


2) Power down one of your subwoofers. Scroll down to a subwoofer line and leave it at 0dB.


3) Adjust volume knob on the powered subwoofer so the test tone produces 72dB SPL (not 75dB).


4) Switch which sub is powered on and repeat, setting its volume knob. Again, target 72dB SPL.


5) If you have the 6dB bug, now, as the last step, lower Test Level an additional 6dB. Then go Measure for ARC.


When you play your two subs together, they will yield approximately 75dB. There are details regarding where the subs are positioned in the room relative to each other, but this is close enough. ARC hears the 2 subs playing together and generates the precise volume trim for the combo, calculated under the assumption that you have 1 Sub set.


You can see the effect yourself by leaving 1 Sub set, powering on both subwoofers and playing the test tone -- i.e., with the sub volume trim still at 0dB and with both sub volume knobs set as above, and with the menu believing you only have one subwoofer. You should get roughly 75dB (or 69dB if you had to compensate for the 6dB bug above) -- with an equal contribution coming from each sub because that's how you set them.


If you have MORE than 2 subs, you need to reduce the volume contribution from each even more so that, again, when played together they produce roughly 75dB.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18267034
> 
> 
> Kind of. What you do is emulate what the 2 Sub setting does:
> 
> 
> 1) Set 1 Sub. Zero out the Level Calibration volume trims (all of them) and then set Test Level to produce 75dB (test tone comes from LF speaker).
> 
> 
> 2) Power down one of your subwoofers. Scroll down to a subwoofer line and leave it at 0dB.
> 
> 
> 3) Adjust volume knob on the powered subwoofer so the test tone produces 72dB SPL (not 75dB).
> 
> 
> 4) Switch which sub is powered on and repeat, setting its volume knob. Again, target 72dB SPL.
> 
> 
> 5) If you have the 6dB bug, now, as the last step, lower Test Level an additional 6dB. Then go Measure for ARC.
> 
> 
> When you play your two subs together, they will yield approximately 75dB. There are details regarding where the subs are positioned in the room relative to each other, but this is close enough. ARC hears the 2 subs playing together and generates the precise volume trim for the combo, calculated under the assumption that you have 1 Sub set.
> 
> 
> You can see the effect yourself by leaving 1 Sub set, powering on both subwoofers and playing the test tone -- i.e., with the sub volume trim still at 0dB and with both sub volume knobs set as above, and with the menu believing you only have one subwoofer. You should get roughly 75dB (or 69dB if you had to compensate for the 6dB bug above) -- with an equal contribution coming from each sub because that's how you set them.
> 
> 
> If you have MORE than 2 subs, you need to reduce the volume contribution from each even more so that, again, when played together they produce roughly 75dB.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the detailed explanation, Bob. Its beginning to make sense now, though I wish Anthem would have found a better way to menu to specify the usage of monre than 1 sub


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18267138
> 
> 
> Thanks for the detailed explanation, Bob. Its beginning to make sense now, though I wish Anthem would have found a better way to menu to specify the usage of monre than 1 sub



Well, they just wanted to encourage you to read the Manual (Section 3.3).










--Bob


----------



## jayray

[/quote]On a related note, I discovered that I have a closet that eats 50Hz. Open the closet door and all the 50Hz goes in there to die. I had some real head scratching over differences in Measured curves before I figured that one out.


I suspect we are eventually going to learn some things like this about treble frequencies that will explain some of the puzzles we've seen up there.

--Bob[/quote]


Bob,

I haven't laughed so hard as thinking of this dreaded closet. Glad I removed any semblance of such sonic disturbances as that, when doing my room









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Speaking of Manuals, the latest D2v V2.0x Manual -- the one that corresponds to the "official" V2.08 firmware -- will be found in the Operating Manual download portion of Anthem's public web page for the D2v. It is a PDF file dated December 3, 2009.


(Same dates for AVM 50v Manual).


The latest Manuals for the official firmware can also be found in the Manuals folder of the ARC V2.4 install kit, also available for download from Anthem's public pages.


Note that the ARC V2.4 install kit has had some updates made to its contents since it first appeared. These changes also happened in December. In addition to the Manual updates, the versions of the Settings Backup and Setup Editor utilities changed in December as well. If you have had ARC V2.4 for a while you may not have the latest versions of these utilities in your ARC V2.4 Utilities folder.


Settings Backup is V1.03 dated Nov 23, 2009

Setup Editor (only for D2v and AVM 50v) is V2.02 dated Nov 20, 2009.


(Live Video Settings Editor has not changed since the ARC V2.4 install kit first appeared. It is dated Jun 2, 2008.)


So if you were an early adopter of ARC V2.4, you might want to get a fresh download of that install kit to get the newer files. No need to re-install of course. The ARC V2.4 application itself did not change.


----------------------------------------


NOTE: For "test" firmware V2.08e (with Dolby Volume) a draft version of the V2.1x Manual will be found in the V2.08e install kit on the password protected download page. We've been told that some user interface elements for Dolby Volume are expected to change, but this reflects what's in the V2.08e firmware at the moment.

--Bob


----------



## GoND




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18263529
> 
> 
> Press Select several times on your AVM 50 remote and the info displayed will tell you what is coming in from the PS3. If you have the PS3 set up correctly the D2 status displays will tell you that it is receiving PCM, usually at 48Khz, and that 5.1 input channels are active.
> 
> 
> The message you reported is the audio surround mode in effect. If you have 7.1 speakers and have selected PLIIx as your surround processing mode for that it will tell you that you have 5.1 input channels and PLIIx is working to raise that to 7.1 speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the fast response Bob!







Looks like I'm getting 5.1 channels via PCM, and then the PLIIx is just raising it to 7.1. My concern was that I wasn't getting the full PCM signal in, or that I was getting the signal and it was dumbing it down to pro logic IIx or something. I'll reconfirm via the select button tonight. Thanks again.


----------



## dmusoke

Hi all...here's a somewhat silly question(maybe







) BUT in my attempt to move around my sub for better room frequency response, does it make sense if the sub directly fires into an object such as the side of a couch/wooden cabinet or does it have to fire in free-air?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18267386
> 
> 
> Hi all...here's a somewhat silly question(maybe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) BUT in my attempt to move around my sub for better room frequency response, does it make sense if the sub directly fires into an object such as the side of a couch/wooden cabinet or does it have to fire in free-air?



Read the manual for your sub. Some are designed to fire into a corner.


But generally you want the sub to be able to fire into the open air.


The sub works by pressurizing the volume of air in the listening space. So it is far more forgiving of odd placements than a normal speaker. But blocking off its output surely isn't a good idea.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18267437
> 
> 
> Read the manual for your sub. Some are designed to fire into a corner.
> 
> 
> But generally you want the sub to be able to fire into the open air.
> 
> 
> The sub works by pressurizing the volume of air in the listening space. So it is far more forgiving of odd placements than a normal speaker. But blocking off its output surely isn't a good idea.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I somewhat knew it was a bad idea, an act of desparation to find the best position for my sub. I was thinking of downfiring subs for this idea. Unfortunately, my sub manual is very sparse on optimal placement instructions. Thanks for the input


----------



## davoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18267481
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I somewhat knew it was a bad idea, an act of desparation to find the best position for my sub. I was thinking of downfiring subs for this idea. Unfortunately, my sub manual is very sparse on optimal placement instructions. Thanks for the input



A popular way of initially determining a sub position is to actually place it in the primary listening position and playing bass material. You then crawl around the room listening for locations that deliver a smooth, strong bass response. You then place the sub in that position and give it a try. I did this by removing my lounge chair and lifting all 125 pounds of that SOB and placed it on a coffee table pointed at my screen. This method determined where I ultimately left the sub positioned.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18267673
> 
> 
> A popular way of initially determining a sub position is to actually place it in the primary listening position and playing bass material. You then crawl around the room listening for locations that deliver a smooth, strong bass response. You then place the sub in that position and give it a try. I did this by removing my lounge chair and lifting all 125 pounds of that SOB and placed it on a coffee table pointed at my screen. This method determined where I ultimately left the sub positioned.



Thanks davoe,


I thought if this bass crawling method as well but since I don't have much music heavy on the bass area, i thought a synthetic test tone would do it(at what frequency?) or pink noise?


Currently, I'm doing it the hard way(?) by taking arc measurements for various sub positions so far with good results, though not the best sub placement so far in my living room is not as esthetically pleasing as I'd like it to be. I'll repeat the whole process for the second sub as well







...anything to keep me busy, away from the women football games tonight(Oscars!)


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18266197
> 
> 
> Adjusting sub Phase gets each sub in phase with the main speakers through the crossover region. Problems in that relationship won't show up in the charts since ARC doesn't hear the sub ever playing while a main speaker is playing. So yes it is good to adjust sub phase. Get each sub in proper Polarity/Phase with, say, LF, and then they will also be in proper phase with each other. Any adjustments you make will effect the sub curve since you have two subs, so you will need to re-Measure. But your dip at 30-50Hz is likely a room null and so adjusting sub phase probably won't alter it. That said, ARC has it completely under control so no worries.
> 
> 
> While you are at it, double check that you have disabled the internal crossover in both subs (or cranked it up to the highest frequency). Your red Measured curves for the subs looks like you have an 80Hz crossover active in them. This is important because your Rear surround speakers need support a little higher up than your sub is currently going.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> The dip in RF is probably a speaker positioning issue, but you can improve ARC's correction of it either by lowering Room Gain (compare to your Music results for example), or by raising the LF/RF cutoff/crossover a bit -- perhaps to 70Hz. I'd probably start with the crossover.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> Your Measured dips around 12KHz are suspiciously similar from speaker to speaker so you might have a mic issue up there (either the mic itself or the way you are using it). In either case, try lowering Max EQ Frequency below that -- say to 10KHz -- and give that a listen to see if you actually prefer the correction you now have ARC doing up there or not.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Thanks for looking at my charts.

I found a set-up disc that has a phase check and the subs are fine.


That severe dip at 12k has been there since I got ARC. It seems that I see a similar dip in many other people's charts between 10-15k. I wonder if there isn't a problem with the mic(s), or the software.

It would seem unlikely that there would be a speaker/cross-over problem in all the speakers at the same frequency. My speakers are all Paradigm- fronts and surrounds are S4's, center C3, rears ADP's- so I suppose it could be the speakers. But I think I've seen other posters with similar dips that were using B&W's or other speakers.


I left the freqency at 5k and the room gain at 2.4xx(movie) and 0(music) on the ARC I uploaded. The line looks better on the 20k charts I forced, but I might be correcting a problem that isn't really there. I can't really notice a difference between the 5k and 20k. Sometimes I think one is better, sometimes the other. There probably isn't much if any difference, so I think I'll leave it at the default settings for a while.

Thanks again for answering.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18267839
> 
> 
> Thanks davoe,
> 
> 
> I thought if this bass crawling method as well but since I don't have much music heavy on the bass area, i thought a synthetic test tone would do it(at what frequency?) or pink noise?
> 
> 
> Currently, I'm doing it the hard way(?) by taking arc measurements for various sub positions so far with good results, though not the best sub placement so far in my living room is not as esthetically pleasing as I'd like it to be. I'll repeat the whole process for the second sub as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...anything to keep me busy, away from the women football games tonight(Oscars!)



Use the Anthem Level Calibration subwoofer test tone (pink noise bass) and find the location that gives the fullest sound -- both high bass and low bass. You can use your SPL meter for this as well since it listens to a broad range of frequencies.


Give the SPL meter ("C" weighting; "slow" response) a few seconds to settle down at each new candidate location. Point it straight up, not at the subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## GoND

Has anyone found that, when used with a projector, that the Anthem AVM 50 has to be on before you turn on your projector in order for the component video up-converter to work? I have my cable box with component cables running into my AVM 50, and being sent to the projector (Panasonic AE2000u) via HDMI and upscaled to 1080P. When I turn on the projector first, and then the AVM 50, the projector can't find the AVM 50's signal for video, and the setup menu is off a little bit, with lines running through the menu screen. But, if you turn on the AVM 50 first, and then the projector, all is well, both on the cable box front, as well as the setup menu screen has it's normal blue background. It's as if the projector isn't talking right to the AVM 50 unless the AVM 50 is already there when the projector turns on. AVM 50 has firmware v1.33. Am I the only one?


----------



## stummala

I suspect this is an HDMI handshake issue with your cable box. I had an AVM50 that I used with a Panasonic PT-AE2000U projector with no issues. Afterwards, I replaced the projector with a Panasonic PT-AE4000u and still no issues. Finally, I replaced the AVM50 with a Statement D2 and still no issues.


However, I 'm using a DirecTv receiver HR23. I would think that it is your cable box as the source of the initial handshake. Have you tried upgrading your cable box to one with HDMI? You wouldn't need to use component cables then.


----------



## barrygordon

With regard to power sequencing and handshaking it gets a little tricky and very Projector/cable box (Source) dependent. I use a JVC RS2 with the Anthem 50v. I have only one instance (which I have a solution for coming) of a problem but it is not the same as yours. I too run my cable boxes over component. There is a significant delay until video locks on on initial startup (after the anthem and PJ are fully operational), 10 - 15 seconds, but after that it runs under 5 seconds.


One issue is what is Power on. All my componets (except the cable boxes) are in standby and are powered up (taken out of standby) at system turn on. I think according to the HDMI spec; a system in standby should still properly respond to an EDID request. I need to check that further for my specific equipments (Anthem 50v and JVC RS2 projector).


My problem had to so with a PC that connects to the anthem to run slide shows and display the movie library. On a reboot it needs to see the Display to properly determine what it is for a dual monitor setup. I have dual monitors set up ([email protected] and the [email protected]). This also has has to do with the PC's video chipset (Intel 945GM). I have determined that the display has to be on and the Anthem has to be on and the SOURCE SELECTED as the PC otherwise the correct monitor is not selected from the registry. I am planning on resolving the problem by installing a Gefen Driver Detective+ between the PC and the Anthem. This device learns the EDID once and then supplies it on all handshake requests even if there is no display!


The theater will auto reboot after a power failure so I am not there to monitor and correct the issue, hence I need it fully automated and reliable.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GoND* /forum/post/18270257
> 
> 
> Has anyone found that, when used with a projector, that the Anthem AVM 50 has to be on before you turn on your projector in order for the component video up-converter to work? I have my cable box with component cables running into my AVM 50, and being sent to the projector (Panasonic AE2000u) via HDMI and upscaled to 1080P. When I turn on the projector first, and then the AVM 50, the projector can't find the AVM 50's signal for video, and the setup menu is off a little bit, with lines running through the menu screen. But, if you turn on the AVM 50 first, and then the projector, all is well, both on the cable box front, as well as the setup menu screen has it's normal blue background. It's as if the projector isn't talking right to the AVM 50 unless the AVM 50 is already there when the projector turns on. AVM 50 has firmware v1.33. Am I the only one?



In Setup > Video Output use a specific HDMI Data setting rather than Auto. Typically you will use YCbCr 4:4:4 for an HDMI to HDMI connection.


In Setup > Source Select for the problem source device, set Auto Dig OFF


In Video Source Adjust > Output for the problem source device, set Frame Lock OFF.


All of these simplify the handshake.


Next try 1080i to your projector instead of 1080p. If things work correctly at 1080i that suggests you need to upgrade the cable to your projector.


Next try the alternate setting of Setup > Video Output > HDMI Sync. Typically the "wrong" setting will result in no video or the video shifted horizontally by a rather larger amount. But some displays can take both sync settings, although working more reliably with the "correct" setting.


Next try powering up your projector first but allow a significant pause before you power on the Anthem. Some displays do not handle HDMI well WHILE they are powering up. When the Anthem is already powered up, it may be able to detect this and do the necessary retry rather than just accepting the garbage data from the projector. If you discover that this is the problem, you can build in a few seconds delay after you power up your projector before you allow the Anthem to turn on. Experiment to find how much delay you need.

--Bob


----------



## diamar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18266251
> 
> 
> On the test tones, make sure you have the current firmware installed (V2.08). Press Select once on the remote to see the firmware version in the display. [NOTE: There is a bug that screws up the test tones in the "test" V2.08e firmware. Use the "official" V2.08 firmware instead.]
> 
> 
> Make sure you have the Center and Surround speakers enabled in your Speaker Configuration.
> 
> 
> If your Center and Surrounds are playing through one power amp, and your LF/RF through a different one, make sure the amp for the Center and Surrounds is actually turning on. If you are using a 12-volt trigger to bring it out of standby that might not be set up correctly. (An easy test is to temporarily move the Center output wire at the back of the D2v to the LF output of the D2v and see if the LF test tone produces audio on the Center speaker.)
> 
> 
> If you have a 5.1 speaker configuration, keep in mind that your Surround speakers are always SIDE surrounds no matter how far back you have placed them. Check the output jacks you are using to make sure you don't have them wired to the REAR outputs. Similarly, make sure you have the Center output connected to the correct jack (Center 1).
> 
> 
> If these tips don't lead to an easy fix, then give Anthem tech support a call.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Just lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level to correct the level of your ARC solution. You've likely been bitten by the 6dB bug we've discussed here several times. Also make sure the volume trim ARC is Uploading for your sub is reasonably close to 0dB -- adjust it's built-in volume knob if necessary.
> 
> --Bob



As always, you are wise Bob. I had upgraded to 2.08A in December, and it must have broken the test tones. Going back to the standard 2.08 fixed everything.


ARC still seems to run everything 6dB higher (a bug I see you've discussed with others). I just compensated by lowering the volumes before re-running ARC.


Thanks,


--dave


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diamar* /forum/post/18273064
> 
> 
> As always, you are wise Bob. I had upgraded to 2.08A in December, and it must have broken the test tones. Going back to the standard 2.08 fixed everything.
> 
> 
> ARC still seems to run everything 6dB higher (a bug I see you've discussed with others). I just compensated by lowering the volumes before re-running ARC.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> --dave



AFTER you get your ARC setup working the way you want, if there's something you wanted in "test" V2.08a or later, you can install it. That is, it doesn't screw up using your current ARC result, or even re-Measuring for ARC as best I can tell (using a Test Level that you have previously figured out works best). It just screws up the calibration tones in Setup which makes it a bit tougher to set up for a first pass with ARC from scratch.


Nick tells me they are still working on bug fixes related to the audio stuff (including Dolby Volume) which is what's holding up the next "test" release. The calibration tones are supposed to be one of the fixes in that next "test" release.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Comparing ARC Settings*

*Problem:*


You want to make some changes to ARC's choices, but you are worried you won't be able to remember what the original solution USED to sound like, i.e., to hear if the new settings really are better.


*Solution:*


1) As a preliminary step, create two Setup > Source Setup definitions which are identical (same source device, same input cabling) except that one uses Movie configuration and the other uses Music. NOTE: To avoid confusion, also make sure the Setup > Mode Presets settings are identical for these two sources. For example, if you have an Oppo BDP-83 on DVD1 as your source for critical listening, you could pick another Source, such as AUX and temporarily change it to be identical to your DVD1 setup except for Movie vs. Music. Note for newbies: There's no problem having more than one Source definition referring to the same input device.


2) In ARC's Advanced mode, go do an ARC Measurement pass, specifying Music is "same as" Movie.


3) In the Targets window, leave the Movie configuration as ARC has chosen (or change to whatever else you want to use as its settings). These are the settings for your "A" configuration.


4) Clear the "same as" check box for Music and make whatever changes you want to make to compare against what you have in Movie. These are the settings for your "B" configuration. By doing the Measurements with Music "same as" Movie you insure that precisely the same Measurements are being used for both "A" and "B". So the only difference will be the result of the settings differences you make yourself in the Targets window for the two of them.


5) Accept these changes (which dismisses the Targets window), Calculate, and Upload.


6) Now go do some critical listening. You can switch rapidly between your two Sources to A/B compare the sound -- e.g., between DVD1 and Aux as above.


You can use this technique, for example, to compare changes in Max EQ Frequency or Room Gain or cutoff/crossovers for the speakers.


Again, be sure both of your Sources are using the same Audio Surround mode (i.e., from Mode Presets). Make sure you have Room EQ ON for both Sources. (And Dolby Volume OFF for both since it is not quite ready if you are using the "test" firmware.) Make sure you have the same settings for THX for both as well. And make sure that any "temporary" speaker level adjustments have been eliminated (Manual Sections 4.6, 4.7, and 3.13). That is do everything you can to make sure your two Sources are operating IDENTICALLY except for the differences you have installed between the Movie and Music configurations.


IMPORTANT NOTE: Since you are switching between Sources to do your A/B comparison, you must realize that each time you move between sources the Mode Preset will be applied according to the type of audio input currently being received (e.g., 2.0 vs. 5.1). So any manual changes you might have made to the Audio surround mode or THX while doing this listening will be replaced by whatever you have set in the Mode Preset for the Source you switch to. That means, if you also want to do your comparison using some other Audio surround mode than your normal Preset, you will need to enter that change into Mode Presets for *BOTH* Sources rather than making the change manually while listening.


You'll have to decide on your own what to listen to for this test. Keep in mind that not all content will exercise your setup the same way. For example it is rare for music content to produce the subsonic bass typically found in LFE tracks of adventure movies. And dialog operates in a limited frequency range, so although it is excellent for testing the mid-range and high bass of your Center speaker setup, it is not very good for testing bass/treble even in Center.


------------------------------------------------


If you Measure with Movie distinct from Music you can also make changes between the two Measurement passes -- e.g., screen up or down, or Center speaker eliminated. But keep in mind that your Measurements may not be precisely identical between the two passes so the method above is cleaner for testing differences that don't involve such stuff.


You can also eliminate speakers from the Music configuration WITHOUT doing the second Measurement pass. In the Targets window for Music, simply drop the "cutoff" for that speaker (pair) one step below 25Hz. It will change to "No speaker".


Removing speakers is a pretty significant change of course, so if you are trying to learn whether you can hear a difference in Room Gain or Max EQ Frequency it is best not to complicate things by doing that as well.


----------------------------------------------


Once you decide what settings changes seem to be working best, you can eliminate the second Source you set up (e.g., AUX above). If the Measurements you made are already good for your use, then re-open the ARC results file in ARC's Advanced mode, go into Targets, and put the settings you ended up preferring into the Movie and Music configurations. Accept those, re-Calculate and re-Upload.


If the Measurements are not right -- for example if you want to have different speakers active in your Music configuration, go and re-Measure the way you want to. But now you know which Targets changes you can make to your advantage. And whether you can actually hear any difference.

--Bob


----------



## Joelc

Bob:


To follow up on our conversation of yesterday I did call Anthem today and spoke to a very helpful member of their technical support team...despite the fact that he did not readily have a high resolution photo of the 17" version of the D2v he did follow up with me a few hours later to advise me that he had sent me a high resolution photo of the 17" version of the D1...as far as we could tell the differences were minor and were limited to a few silk screen differences on the front fascia (i.e. D1 label of DD --> D2 label of DD-THD, etc.).


Would like to thanks Anthem for the responsiveness and dedication to getting me what I asked for, truly first class...would also like to post the photo here to share with anyone who might be interested...


----------



## MikeCornika

Hi Bob,


I follow this thread for a year already, and i'm very impressed with your participation. I'm looking for replacing my receiver (who i use like a pre/pro) with the Statement D2V, recently i have a good deal but it still a couple of thousands. My system is a 7.1 with 2 Rotels for amplification, one RMB-1080 to drive the fronts and a 5 channels for center and surrounds, my front speakers are Focals BE-1037, everything else is Klipsch, sub included. For video i use a DVD and Blue Ray players (HDMI) and for audio a Rotel hooked via analogue cables. Like i said, i have a Marantz 8001 like preamps.

My question is, is worth to replace the Marantz with D2V, what will be the gain in sound especially.

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18276808
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I follow this thread for a year already, and i'm very impressed with your participation. I'm looking for replacing my receiver (who i use like a pre/pro) with the Statement D2V, recently i have a good deal but it still a couple of thousands. My system is a 7.1 with 2 Rotels for amplification, one RMB-1080 to drive the fronts and a 5 channels for center and surrounds, my front speakers are Focals BE-1037, everything else is Klipsch, sub included. For video i use a DVD and Blue Ray players (HDMI) and for audio a Rotel hooked via analogue cables. Like i said, i have a Marantz 8001 like preamps.
> 
> My question is, is worth to replace the Marantz with D2V, what will be the gain in sound especially.
> 
> Thanks.



There's no easy answer to this since it depends not only on your other equipment (speakers in particular), but also your listening room and your ears -- e.g., how good you are at critical listening.


I've not listened to your current combo of stuff, so others here might be better able to tell you their experience, but YOUR experience might be different, perhaps even better than theirs, due to YOUR room and ears.


The D2v is an exceptional piece of equipment. I personally consider it to be in the "near exotic" class. And I've said in the past that ARC alone is like spending twice as much on your speakers. So I think you'll hear an improvement without too much difficulty. But for both audio and video there are diminishing returns. You can spend a lot chasing another degree of perfection. So only you can decide if the improvement is worth the cost.


If you can arrange to audition the D2v in your room with your speakers that would be great, but since you've been following the thread you probably know that there's a lot of tweaking you can do to squeeze even more out of ARC (and the video) so keep that in mind since you probably won't have time to do that in such an audition. In fact the very flexibility of the D2v is one of its strengths. But it does make it tougher to audition, since you probably won't know what tweaking went into the setup already.


If you do other things at the same time, e.g., replacing speakers, also keep in mind that speakers in particular need some break-in time, after which you should re-Measure for ARC for example.

--Bob


----------



## Milwaukeesk

The motion blur / Judder / ??? is driving me crazy.... I'm not sure if I am using the correct technical term or not to describe what is going on. Whenever I watch a bluray, or anything with fast moving sections, the shakiness and blur is horrible. I am starting to wonder if I have a defective projector (JVC RS2) or if I have some settings that are off with the D2 or Bluray player.


A little background, I have a 110" inch screen. Samsung bluray (outputting 1080p24) running through my Anthem D2 via HDMI outputting 1080p24 to the projector.


Any recommendations on what might be going on here? The picture is stunning when the scene slows down, but when any sudden movement occurs, it's really bad. I'm not an expert when it comes to different film speeds, or the settings on my Anthem from the video side of things, but I know enough to know that something doesn't seem right, and no glaring settings or out of line that I know of.


To make matters more complicated, I bought the projector at the same time I bought the Anthem, so I can't say for certain that I know the issue is with one device or the other.


Please help...


----------



## barrygordon

I have a JVC-RS2 running with an Anthem 50v. No judder period. I have run the judder test using the DVDO Edge (my prior scaler) through the Anthem to the PJ and absolutely no Judder.


I have never seen judder on any BR disk I have played. Maybe my eyes are getting bad (;-)


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/18277815
> 
> 
> 
> A little background, I have a 110" inch screen. Samsung bluray (outputting 1080p24) running through my Anthem D2 via HDMI outputting 1080p24 to the projector.
> 
> 
> Please help...



Don't Rule out the Samsung










For Sure it is ONE of the three devices in the chain.


I'm sure you will get better trouble shooting help from others.


----------



## Milwaukeesk

barrygordon,

What settings are you using to pass to your RS2?...1080p24?


Again, I maybe should be describing this as judder as to me it's just a general shakiness which is almost unbearable. The test for me to know something is going on was going to a few movie that the theater recently and not seeing anything like what I am experiencing at home.


----------



## Milwaukeesk

Good call on the samsung. The model I'm using is bdp-1600.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/18278017
> 
> 
> Good call on the samsung. The model I'm using is bdp-1600.



One of the three devices in the chain is either set wrong or defective.


If you don't do 1080p/24 - does the problem go away.


----------



## Milwaukeesk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18278104
> 
> 
> One of the three devices in the chain is either set wrong or defective.
> 
> 
> If you don't do 1080p/24 - does the problem go away.



no, it seems to be doing to regardless of the setting.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/18278332
> 
> 
> no, it seems to be doing to regardless of the setting.



I'm not the EXPERT that Bob P. is - but that sounds like one of the

devices in the chain is not working correctly and not just a bad

setting or cable to the PJ.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/18278332
> 
> 
> no, it seems to be doing to regardless of the setting.



I would suggest calling Nick @ Anthem - a phone might be a lots faster

than this forum.


----------



## Texas steve

You have another DVD player you can try? What about another source, cable etc hows it look?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18278549
> 
> 
> I would suggest calling Nick @ Anthem - a phone might be a lots faster
> 
> than this forum.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/18277815
> 
> 
> The motion blur / Judder / ??? is driving me crazy.... I'm not sure if I am using the correct technical term or not to describe what is going on. Whenever I watch a bluray, or anything with fast moving sections, the shakiness and blur is horrible. I am starting to wonder if I have a defective projector (JVC RS2) or if I have some settings that are off with the D2 or Bluray player.
> 
> 
> A little background, I have a 110" inch screen. Samsung bluray (outputting 1080p24) running through my Anthem D2 via HDMI outputting 1080p24 to the projector.
> 
> 
> Any recommendations on what might be going on here? The picture is stunning when the scene slows down, but when any sudden movement occurs, it's really bad. I'm not an expert when it comes to different film speeds, or the settings on my Anthem from the video side of things, but I know enough to know that something doesn't seem right, and no glaring settings or out of line that I know of.
> 
> 
> To make matters more complicated, I bought the projector at the same time I bought the Anthem, so I can't say for certain that I know the issue is with one device or the other.
> 
> 
> Please help...



Let's collect some information:


While seeing the judder, press and hold 7 on the Anthem remote until the Video Source Adjust menu appears. Then scroll right to the Info panel. Report what is shown there for video input and for video output.


Plug the player directly into the projector. Do you still get the judder?


With the player connected again through the Anthem, change Setup > Video Output from the Anthem to 1080p/60. Bring up Video Source Adjust again, and in the Output panel set Frame Lock to OFF. Do you still get the judder? Now also change video output from the player to 1080p/60. Do you still get the judder?


Note that SD-DVDs are different from Blu-Ray. If the judder you are seeing is while playing SD-DVDs as opposed to Blu-Ray, then tell us.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, there are two likely scenarios here. First you may be trying to force NON film-based content to play at 1080p/24. That can't possible work without stuttering. Second, your Samsung player may be broken (I'm not a big fan of Samsung's players -- any of them).


It would be helpful if you can try to describe what you are seeing more precisely. Are edges in the image breaking up into streaky horizontal lines like the edge of a comb? Are the edges sharp but the motion is jerky and stuttering? Is the image tearing as if the top part of the image is ahead of the bottom part of the image? Is the image breaking up into blotchy squares during fast motion -- particularly in solid colors in the background? Something else?

--Bob


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18277505
> 
> 
> There's no easy answer to this since it depends not only on your other equipment (speakers in particular), but also your listening room and your ears -- e.g., how good you are at critical listening.
> 
> 
> I've not listened to your current combo of stuff, so others here might be better able to tell you their experience, but YOUR experience might be different, perhaps even better than theirs, due to YOUR room and ears.
> 
> 
> The D2v is an exceptional piece of equipment. I personally consider it to be in the "near exotic" class. And I've said in the past that ARC alone is like spending twice as much on your speakers. So I think you'll hear an improvement without too much difficulty. But for both audio and video there are diminishing returns. You can spend a lot chasing another degree of perfection. So only you can decide if the improvement is worth the cost.
> 
> 
> If you can arrange to audition the D2v in your room with your speakers that would be great, but since you've been following the thread you probably know that there's a lot of tweaking you can do to squeeze even more out of ARC (and the video) so keep that in mind since you probably won't have time to do that in such an audition. In fact the very flexibility of the D2v is one of its strengths. But it does make it tougher to audition, since you probably won't know what tweaking went into the setup already.
> 
> 
> If you do other things at the same time, e.g., replacing speakers, also keep in mind that speakers in particular need some break-in time, after which you should re-Measure for ARC for example.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for your kind reply, my speakers are news one, October, last year. My audition room is difficult, his shape is not rectangular, nothing to do, for this I suppose I need something with more possibilities in settings vs. Audissey (trims, gain room, etc.). I'm audiophile guy, but I like to look at movies or concerts.

On video side I'm not sure I need the entire Anthem potential, but maybe later I'll change my TV screen with a projector.

Unfortunately here in Quebec the authorized Anthem dealers they do not have demo units, so I must be confident on the reviews or posts in AVS forum or equivalent. I think I'll do the jump.

Thanks again.


----------



## Milwaukeesk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18278665
> 
> 
> By the way, there are two likely scenarios here. First you may be trying to force NON film-based content to play at 1080p/24. That can't possible work without stuttering. Second, your Samsung player may be broken (I'm not a big fan of Samsung's players -- any of them).
> 
> 
> It would be helpful if you can try to describe what you are seeing more precisely. Are edges in the image breaking up into streaky horizontal lines like the edge of a comb? Are the edges sharp but the motion is jerky and stuttering? Is the image tearing as if the top part of the image is ahead of the bottom part of the image? Is the image breaking up into blotchy squares during fast motion -- particularly in solid colors in the background? Something else?
> 
> --Bob



Okay, This is a bunch of excellent advice. Tonight, when I go home I will try to do more trouble shooting with the advice that many of you have just given. I'll then report back what I find out. I'm starting to think it could be the Samsung, but i'll let you know what I find tomorrow.


This one has really got me flustered so I hope we can get to the bottom of it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*MonoPrice.com rumor*


The Web is buzzing today with allegations that the on-line purchasing system at MonoPrice has been hacked and that people are seeing fraudulent charges appear on accounts they used to pay for purchases from MonoPrice.


The early reports are that people at risk are those who placed orders since mid February. This is not confirmed.


The MonoPrice web site is currently shut down.


Since MonoPrice is the most commonly recommended source for cables in this thread, I'm putting this out to alert folks to keep an eye on accounts you may have used with them until this is sorted out. MonoPrice, itself, is a good company, and I'm sure they'll handle this professionally. Keep in mind that credit cards are universally protected against fraudulent purchases. If you paid via PayPal, your credit card info is one step further removed and thus likely not compromised.


If you spot fraudulent charges, contact your bank/card company.


----------------------------


My personal recommendation for high quality cables at a rational price is and remains Blue Jeans Cable, but MonoPrice is a close second.


ETA: As of 6PM Eastern, the MonoPrice site is back live again, at least for browsing (I didn't try placing an order). There is a message at the top of the site that doesn't really clarify much.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I noticed that when playing a BD, King Kong, my display showed the video input as *1920x1079p/24*







. Checked the setting in the setup menu and nothing had changed.

Several minutes later all was well.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18280127
> 
> 
> I noticed that when playing a BD, King Kong, my display showed the video input as *1920x1079p/24*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Checked the setting in the setup menu and nothing had changed.
> 
> Several minutes later all was well.
> 
> John



The Oppo BDP-83 used to do that occasionally with older player firmware (i.e., the D2v showed 1920x1079p/23.97 as the INPUT). I was never able to sort out whether it really was losing one line or whether the Anthem was reporting the input format incorrectly. When it happened, I was not able to detect any loss of image quality, but of course unless you just happen to be playing a test chart you are not likely to spot, say, a line missing off the bottom.


If you get a repeatable case of this, send details to Anthem and your display company.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18280169
> 
> 
> The Oppo BDP-83 used to do that occasionally with older player firmware (i.e., the D2v showed 1920x1079p/23.97 as the INPUT). I was never able to sort out whether it really was losing one line or whether the Anthem was reporting the input format incorrectly. When it happened, I was not able to detect any loss of image quality, but of course unless you just happen to be playing a test chart you are not likely to spot, say, a line missing off the bottom.
> 
> 
> If you get a repeatable case of this, send details to Anthem and your display company.
> 
> --Bob



I've had the since the summer and have never seen this. I have the latest oppo firmware and 2.08e on my D2v. I'll watch for this but it will be hard to spot as I couldn't notice any diff when it happened.

thanks Bob,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18280326
> 
> 
> I've had the since the summer and have never seen this. I have the latest oppo firmware and 2.08e on my D2v. I'll watch for this but it will be hard to spot as I couldn't notice any diff when it happened.
> 
> thanks Bob,
> 
> John



But in your case it was the DISPLAY reporting odd output from the D2v, right? So it should not be possible for your case to be an Oppo problem. I was just pointing out that I saw a similar thing at the D2v input back then from the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18280360
> 
> 
> But in your case it was the DISPLAY reporting odd output from the D2v, right? So it should not be possible for your case to be an Oppo problem. I was just pointing out that I saw a similar thing at the D2v input back then from the Oppo.
> 
> --Bob



No it was the display setting in the D2v, not the PJ.

John


----------



## ninja12




Bob Pariseau;18278665First you may be trying to force NON film-based content to play at 1080p/24.

--Bob[/QUOTE said:


> Could you please elaborate on how you can tell what's NON film-based content when playing a blu ray movie? I notice a sync problem when I play 1080p/24 from my Oppo BDP-83 through my D2 (v1.33) to my JVC RS 35 Projector. However, when I change it to 1080p/60, the sync problem goes away. Is there a way to tell when 1080p/24 should be used versus 1080p/60?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18281452
> 
> 
> Could you please elaborate on how you can tell what's NON film-based content when playing a blu ray movie? I notice a sync problem when I play 1080p/24 from my Oppo BDP-83 through my D2 (v1.33) to my JVC RS 35 Projector. However, when I change it to 1080p/60, the sync problem goes away. Is there a way to tell when 1080p/24 should be used versus 1080p/60?



In the Oppo, set 1080p/24 = Auto and DVD/24 = OFF, and set 1080p as the output resolution to the D2 (not Auto and not Source Direct). The Oppo will only send out 1080p/24 when it is supposed to. 1080p/60 will be sent to the D2 otherwise.


In your D2, set 1080p/24 as the Setup > Video Output resolution for use with the Oppo source and set Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock = Auto for the Oppo source. In combo with the above Oppo settings, 1080p/24 will only be sent to your display when it is coming in from the Oppo -- i.e., when it is supposed to be used. 1080p/60 will be sent to the display otherwise. The Frame Lock Auto setting will cause the handshake to take a few seconds longer while Frame Lock detects the input frame rate and establishes the output frame rate.


Note, you will need a separate Video Output configuration as well, specifying 1080p/60 output to the display, to use with your other sources.


Do not attempt to convert 1080i/60 or 480i/60 input to 1080p/24 output in the D2, even if you know the content is film-based (e.g., an SD-DVD movie or a movie on TV). It won't work right.


-----------------------------------


What do you mean by a "sync problem"?

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

walt here.

i have done a great number of arc's, and nearly every one of the measurements has a "sub 10db (of the other measurements) low on one of the measurements. it does not matter where the mic is - i have had the db low report at every mic position within the 5 positions.

i used to remeasure, and sometimes it corrected itself, sometimes not.(today it did)

there is no rhyme or reason or pattern i can discern.

is this unique to me? if one of the sub measurements measures say 11db lower than the other 4, is this important?

thx

walt


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/18278332
> 
> 
> no, it seems to be doing to regardless of the setting.



Does your projector have FI, Frame Interpolation? What you are describing happened to me with my Epson 6500 with FI set to high until I upgraded the firmware.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18281517
> 
> 
> In the Oppo, set 1080p/24 = Auto and DVD/24 = OFF, and set 1080p as the output resolution to the D2 (not Auto and not Source Direct). The Oppo will only send out 1080p/24 when it is supposed to. 1080p/60 will be sent to the D2 otherwise.
> 
> 
> In your D2, set 1080p/24 as the Setup > Video Output resolution for use with the Oppo source and set Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock = Auto for the Oppo source. In combo with the above Oppo settings, 1080p/24 will only be sent to your display when it is coming in from the Oppo -- i.e., when it is supposed to be used. 1080p/60 will be sent to the display otherwise. The Frame Lock Auto setting will cause the handshake to take a few seconds longer while Frame Lock detects the input frame rate and establishes the output frame rate.
> 
> 
> Note, you will need a separate Video Output configuration as well, specifying 1080p/60 output to the display, to use with your other sources.
> 
> 
> Do not attempt to convert 1080i/60 or 480i/60 input to 1080p/24 output in the D2, even if you know the content is film-based (e.g., an SD-DVD movie or a movie on TV). It won't work right.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> What do you mean by a "sync problem"?
> 
> --Bob



lip-sync problem. I also think I may need to upgrade to 1.47 from 1.33 because I was seeing a lot of stuttering when I made the change.s


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18282066
> 
> 
> lip-sync problem. I also think I may need to upgrade to 1.47 from 1.33 because I was seeing a lot of stuttering when I made the change.s



Lip Synch problems will be happening in your display, not in the Oppo or the D2. In that case you are probably better off to create two Setup > Source Setup definitions, one which uses the Video Output configuration for 1080p/24 and the other which uses the Video Output configuration for 1080p/60.


Then you can set the D2 audio sync delay as necessary in the one that uses 1080p/24 output.


Now that will mean you need to switch between them on your own.


The 1080p/60 output will work for ALL content. The 1080p/24 output will work for film-based content which is coming into the D2 as 1080p/24. If you use the 1080p/24 output by mistake you will see stuttering in the video; just switch to the 1080p/60 Source when that happens.


Again, note: With the D2, you must have 1080p/24 input to use 1080p/24 output.


You won't be able to use Frame Lock to make the frame rate change automatically because you can't set up a different audio delay between 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 output when using Frame Lock. (The audio delay is part of the Source definition so you need two distinct Source definitions.)


The point here is that the audio sync problems you are seeing are NOT due to using 1080p/24 at the wrong times. They are due to your display producing more video delay when you feed it 1080p/24 input. You can compensate for that in the D2 by using a separate Source definition with the needed audio delay.


You don't need "test" V1.47f to get 1080/24 to work properly. Lot's of folks have it working properly with V1.33.

--Bob


----------



## bcljones

Walt,


I have a D2 and do get the sub level more than 10dB low more frequently than I would like. It is a pain to have to redo it. I can typically rerun the ARC process one or two times and it finally works to completion.


Buddy


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks getting the 10dB low complaint on the subwoofer, check what ARC is Uploading as the volume trim for the sub. If it is above, say, +3dB raise the volume knob on the sub prior to your next ARC Measurement pass to get it more in balance with the rest of the speakers. (Likewise, if it is below, say, -3dB, lower the volume knob on the sub.) Keep in mind that ARC wipes out all of the volume trims prior to doing its sweep tones, so if the uncorrected speakers are way out of trim this can cause problems. This is most likely to happen because you have not gone through the exercise to pre set Test Level and then the volume knob on the subwoofer, or because you are mixing RCA and XLR outputs from the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18282555
> 
> 
> For folks getting the 10dB low complaint on the subwoofer, check what ARC is Uploading as the volume trim for the sub. If it is above, say, +3dB raise the volume knob on the sub prior to your next ARC Measurement pass to get it more in balance with the rest of the speakers. (Likewise, if it is below, say, -3dB, lower the volume knob on the sub.) Keep in mind that ARC wipes out all of the volume trims prior to doing its sweep tones, so if the uncorrected speakers are way out of trim this can cause problems. This is most likely to happen because you have not gone through the exercise to pre set Test Level and then the volume knob on the subwoofer, or because you are mixing RCA and XLR outputs from the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


In my case, I use the XLR of my 50v into my amplifier for all channels except the powered 2 subwoofers, which runs directly from the Anthem. They use XLR to RCA cable converters for I had incorrectly thought my subs had XLR inputs and had already wired the room so I couldn't easily remove them and replace with straight RCA runs.


So, am I loosing out due to the XLR to RCA conversion? Once ARC is finished, should all speakers (subs included) have the same SPL levels when using the Level calibration menu?


David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18282832
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> In my case, I use the XLR of my 50v into my amplifier for all channels except the powered 2 subwoofers, which runs directly from the Anthem. They use XLR to RCA cable converters for I had incorrectly thought my subs had XLR inputs and had already wired the room so I couldn't easily remove them and replace with straight RCA runs.
> 
> 
> So, am I loosing out due to the XLR to RCA conversion? Once ARC is finished, should all speakers (subs included) have the same SPL levels when using the Level calibration menu?
> 
> 
> David



You are not losing anything, but there is a standard 6dB volume difference between RCA and XLR outputs that you need to adjust for (see Section 2.2 of the Manual). So you need to compensate by adjusting the volume knob on your subs so that the subs are roughly in balance with the main speakers BEFORE you do your ARC Measurements.


So long as you go through the exercise to set Test Level and then your sub volume knobs before you do your ARC Measurement you are good to go.


If in the end ARC has uploaded volume trims for all speakers (including your pair of subs) that are within just a few dB either side of 0dB, and if the basic volume level of the ARC solution is near 75dB, then everything is fine.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18282240
> 
> 
> Lip Synch problems will be happening in your display, not in the Oppo or the D2. In that case you are probably better off to create two Setup > Source Setup definitions, one which uses the Video Output configuration for 1080p/24 and the other which uses the Video Output configuration for 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> Then you can set the D2 audio sync delay as necessary in the one that uses 1080p/24 output.
> 
> 
> Now that will mean you need to switch between them on your own.
> 
> 
> The 1080p/60 output will work for ALL content. The 1080p/24 output will work for film-based content which is coming into the D2 as 1080p/24. If you use the 1080p/24 output by mistake you will see stuttering in the video; just switch to the 1080p/60 Source when that happens.
> 
> 
> Again, note: With the D2, you must have 1080p/24 input to use 1080p/24 output.
> 
> 
> You won't be able to use Frame Lock to make the frame rate change automatically because you can't set up a different audio delay between 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 output when using Frame Lock. (The audio delay is part of the Source definition so you need two distinct Source definitions.)
> 
> 
> The point here is that the audio sync problems you are seeing are NOT due to using 1080p/24 at the wrong times. They are due to your display producing more video delay when you feed it 1080p/24 input. You can compensate for that in the D2 by using a separate Source definition with the needed audio delay.
> 
> 
> You don't need "test" V1.47f to get 1080/24 to work properly. Lot's of folks have it working properly with V1.33.
> 
> --Bob



I did set up 2 Video Configs and 2 DVD configs. One is using 1080p/60, and the other is using 1080p/24. I am using Video Config 2 and DVD Config 2, which is 1080p/24, with the Oppo. Once I adjusted the Lip Sync in DVD Config 2, that corrected my lip sync problem that I was seeing. Thanks once again for the help. I truly appreciate it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18282998
> 
> 
> I did set up 2 Video Configs and 2 DVD configs. One is using 1080p/60, and the other is using 1080p/24. I am using Video Config 2 and DVD Config 2, which is 1080p/24, with the Oppo. Once I adjusted the Lip Sync in DVD Config 2, that corrected my lip sync problem that I was seeing. Thanks once again for the help. I truly appreciate it.



Great! There is an excellent audio sync test on "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray, which, as I recall, is on the disc as 1080p/24 so you can use it for confirming your setting. It's the circle with the sweeping clock hand that generates a tone and a flash as the clock hand crosses through 12 o'clock. It is best to ignore the flash and concentrate on the gap closing in that sweeping hand as it approaches 12 o'clock.


Use that to set the audio sync delay in the D2 for your Source definition that uses 1080p/24 output.


Now be aware that some movies will have inherent audio sync delays, often varying from scene to scene. I.e., the sync problem is in the content on the disc.


This is sometimes due to sloppiness but often due to loss of the original audio element that matches the video so that they have to use an audio track from a different take or from a dub. This is particularly a problem when they are trying to restore audio tracks of older films for new Blu-Ray discs. So set your audio sync *ONCE* using a test chart (such as that one from DVE above) and trust that things are now right. That is, it is pointless to try to adjust sync on the fly for problem content like this as it will most likely vary from scene to scene anyway.


And with TV sources, whether off air, cable or satellite, it is far too often the case that the broadcast itself is out of sync due to a retransmission screw up. Sometimes video is even AHEAD of audio! Again, it is pointless to try to chase a sync adjustment in such cases. Either ignore the problem or change the channel.


NOTE: The inherent sync in the output from the Oppo, and in audio/video processed through the Anthem, is essentially perfect regardless of whether you are using 1080p/24 or 1080p/60. So your problem here really is a different video processing path delay in the display triggered by 1080p/24 input. That's why you had to make the audio sync delay adjustment in the Anthem, in the Source definition you reserved for 1080p/24 use, rather than in the Oppo where it would ALSO (and incorrectly) alter the sync for 1080p/60 output.


So set it right once, and forget it!

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18282850
> 
> 
> You are not losing anything, but there is a standard 6dB volume difference between RCA and XLR outputs that you need to adjust for (see Section 2.2 of the Manual). So you need to compensate by adjusting the volume knob on your subs so that the subs are roughly in balance with the main speakers BEFORE you do your ARC Measurements.
> 
> 
> So long as you go through the exercise to set Test Level and then your sub volume knobs before you do your ARC Measurement you are good to go.
> 
> 
> If in the end ARC has uploaded volume trims for all speakers (including your pair of subs) that are within just a few dB either side of 0dB, and if the basic volume level of the ARC solution is near 75dB, then everything is fine.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob:


Here are my calibration levels...


Test Level: -3.0 dB ....to provide a 75dB reference level by RS meter

Front - L: -1.5 dB

Center : -2.0 dB

Fonrt - R: -1.5 dB

SUR-R : +2.0 dB

REAR - R : NA

REAR - L : NA

MOVIE SUB: -5.5 dB

MUSIC SUB: -5.5 dB


Is this normal?


The strange thing is that my ARC graphs say my reference line is at 73 dB or so yet when I check the new levels and measure them in the level calibration menu, my RS meter says 68dB for all speakers. Does this look right?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18283143
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob:
> 
> 
> Here are my calibration levels...
> 
> 
> Test Level: -3.0 dB ....to provide a 75dB reference level by RS meter
> 
> Front - L: -1.5 dB
> 
> Center : -2.0 dB
> 
> Fonrt - R: -1.5 dB
> 
> SUR-R : +2.0 dB
> 
> REAR - R : NA
> 
> REAR - L : NA
> 
> MOVIE SUB: -5.5 dB
> 
> MUSIC SUB: -5.5 dB
> 
> 
> Is this normal?
> 
> 
> The strange thing is that my ARC graphs say my reference line is at 73 dB or so yet when I check the new levels and measure them in the level calibration menu, my RS meter says 68dB for all speakers. Does this look right?



It's not bad at all. Remember that to set Test Level you must first zero out the LF volume trim. The two settings interact. That could easily explain the difference between the 75dB you expected to get and the 73dB shown in the ARC charts.


The results shown in the ARC charts are more accurate than what you can measure with your SPL meter. So if the ARC charts are OK for volume level then you are fine. In addition, the actual volume level produced with ARC is a combination of the volume trims and what the room correction processing does in terms of boosts or cuts -- which varies by frequency. But the test tones you use with the SPL meter don't see those room correction changes, and are simple averages of the somewhat limited range of frequencies present in the test tones. So a few dB difference is normal.


You could lower the volume knob on your sub setup a tad before your next ARC Measurement pass so that ARC doesn't have to trim it back as much as 5.5dB.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18283244
> 
> 
> It's not bad at all. Remember that to set Test Level you must first zero out the LF volume trim. The two settings interact. That could easily explain the difference between the 75dB you expected to get and the 73dB shown in the ARC charts.
> 
> 
> The results shown in the ARC charts are more accurate than what you can measure with your SPL meter. So if the ARC charts are OK for volume level then you are fine. In addition, the actual volume level produced with ARC is a combination of the volume trims and what the room correction processing does in terms of boosts or cuts -- which varies by frequency. But the test tones you use with the SPL meter don't see those room correction changes, and are simple averages of the somewhat limited range of frequencies present in the test tones. So a few dB difference is normal.
> 
> 
> You could lower the volume knob on your sub setup a tad before your next ARC Measurement pass so that ARC doesn't have to trim it back as much as 5.5dB.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob....the frustrating thing is that the slightest change in the test levels set in the calibration levels produces large changes in ARC's reference levels. Not sure why this is so and it seems to be a rather new problem. Will trim the sub levels a bit to compensate for the cut the ARC does.


Thanks again, Bob!


----------



## Milwaukeesk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18281666
> 
> 
> Does your projector have FI, Frame Interpolation? What you are describing happened to me with my Epson 6500 with FI set to high until I upgraded the firmware.



No it doesnt. I think it may be a little older. I have heard that option often fixes what I have going on here...


----------



## Milwaukeesk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/18279062
> 
> 
> Okay, This is a bunch of excellent advice. Tonight, when I go home I will try to do more trouble shooting with the advice that many of you have just given. I'll then report back what I find out. I'm starting to think it could be the Samsung, but i'll let you know what I find tomorrow.
> 
> 
> This one has really got me flustered so I hope we can get to the bottom of it.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18278665
> 
> 
> By the way, there are two likely scenarios here. First you may be trying to force NON film-based content to play at 1080p/24. That can't possible work without stuttering. Second, your Samsung player may be broken (I'm not a big fan of Samsung's players -- any of them).
> 
> 
> It would be helpful if you can try to describe what you are seeing more precisely. Are edges in the image breaking up into streaky horizontal lines like the edge of a comb? Are the edges sharp but the motion is jerky and stuttering? Is the image tearing as if the top part of the image is ahead of the bottom part of the image? Is the image breaking up into blotchy squares during fast motion -- particularly in solid colors in the background? Something else?
> 
> --Bob



Okay, I tried a number of troubleshooting techniques last night...


I have confirmed that the edges are sharp, but the motion is jerky and stuttering.This is a perfect way to describe it. No breakup in blotchy squares.


I used one of the progressive motion tests on the Spears & musil Blur-ray for 24p and it does the same thing with my samsung outputting 24p and the D2 outputting 24p. I have confirmed that the d2 and the projector are both receiving and outputting correctly.


Last night I troubleshooted to the point that I have confirmed it is either the projector or the HDMI cable (30' Audioquest) going to the projector. The Anthem and the Samsung appear to be fine as I tried other sources and bypassed the Anthem all showing similar results although slightly varied.


Is it possible it could be the result of the HDMI cable or the 90 degree swivel HDMI coupler going into the projector?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/18285015
> 
> 
> Okay, I tried a number of troubleshooting techniques last night...
> 
> 
> I have confirmed that the edges are sharp, but the motion is jerky and stuttering.This is a perfect way to describe it. No breakup in blotchy squares.
> 
> 
> I used one of the progressive motion tests on the Spears & musil Blur-ray for 24p and it does the same thing with my samsung outputting 24p and the D2 outputting 24p. I have confirmed that the d2 and the projector are both receiving and outputting correctly.
> 
> 
> Last night I troubleshooted to the point that I have confirmed it is either the projector or the HDMI cable (30' Audioquest) going to the projector. The Anthem and the Samsung appear to be fine as I tried other sources and bypassed the Anthem all showing similar results although slightly varied.
> 
> 
> Is it possible it could be the result of the HDMI cable or the 90 degree swivel HDMI coupler going into the projector?



What other sources did you use to test this? The only way to get good 1080p/24 to send to the projector is to play a Blu-Ray movie (or an HD-DVD movie if you have an HD-DVD player that outputs 1080p/24) with the player set to output 1080p/24. You can not test this by trying to convert any other source content to 1080p/24.


A bad HDMI cable will not cause stuttering.


You say you have confirmed the projector is actually receiving 1080p/24 as input?


It is possible there is a problem in the projector. Check in the owner's thread for your projector to see if there is a firmware update you need or if there are other reports of the projector not handling 1080p/24 input properly.

--Bob


----------



## Milwaukeesk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18285130
> 
> 
> What other sources did you use to test this? The only way to get good 1080p/24 to send to the projector is to play a Blu-Ray movie (or an HD-DVD movie if you have an HD-DVD player that outputs 1080p/24) with the player set to output 1080p/24. You can not test this by trying to convert any other source content to 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> A bad HDMI cable will not cause stuttering.
> 
> 
> You say you have confirmed the projector is actually receiving 1080p/24 as input?
> 
> 
> It is possible there is a problem in the projector. Check in the owner's thread for your projector to see if there is a firmware update you need or if there are other reports of the projector not handling 1080p/24 input properly.
> 
> --Bob




Bob, I tested a SD dvd through and Xbox 360 and it had similar stuttering although this test was not performed at 1080p24. I also bypassed the d2 with this test, again similar results.


I can confirm the projector is receiving 1080p24 by going to one of the menus that shows the signal being input to it to confirm it is receiving the proper signal.


The more I play with this, the more I am thinking it could be the projector... I'll look into a firmware update, but I haven't heard of any.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In the owner's thread for your model of projector, you should be able to confirm that it is known to work (or not) with 1080p/24 input, and you can check on other settings in the projector that might be causing the problem you are seeing.


I'm not sure the SD-DVD test with the XBOX is a good test. After all, you have no problem from the D2 at 1080p/60, right? You should be able to set your Samsung player to output 1080p/60 as well so you can confirm things with it directly connected to the projector. It would be best if you can borrow another Blu-Ray player -- perhaps a PS3 from a friend -- as an alternate source of 1080p/24.


If the projector has more than one HDMI input, try the alternate input. Of course you can always carry the player over to the projector along with a short HDMI cable if you want to satisfy yourself it is not the cable.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18285372
> 
> 
> After all, you have no problem from the D2 at 1080p/60, right?



That was the first question I asked him and he said it did it at 1080p/60 as well


----------



## Milwaukeesk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18286793
> 
> 
> That was the first question I asked him and he said it did it at 1080p/60 as well



yes, at 1080p/60 as well.


At this point, I'm blaming it on the projector with a few more things to try. I will plan on borrowing a friends bluray to see if I get similar results.


Thanks to all who have added input on the matter.


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18282555
> 
> 
> For folks getting the 10dB low complaint on the subwoofer, check what ARC is Uploading as the volume trim for the sub. If it is above, say, +3dB raise the volume knob on the sub prior to your next ARC Measurement pass to get it more in balance with the rest of the speakers. (Likewise, if it is below, say, -3dB, lower the volume knob on the sub.) Keep in mind that ARC wipes out all of the volume trims prior to doing its sweep tones,
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> so if the uncorrected speakers are way out of trim this can cause problems.
> 
> 
> 
> i pre set as per standing instructions. refer to levels here: noise; +7.0; l; +3.0; ctr; -1.5; r; +3.0; s/r -3.-; s/l -2.0; sub -11! This is most likely to happen because you have not gone through the exercise to pre set Test Level and then the volume knob on the subwoofer,
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> or because you are mixing RCA and XLR outputs from the Anthem.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> RCA all around.
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...


here are the latest measurements, with the above levels.

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/18287832
> 
> 
> here are the latest measurements, with the above levels.
> 
> walt



OK, so these volume trims say the volume knob on your sub is over 10dB too high. ARC gets upset if it sees 10dB differential between speakers or between different mic positions for the same speaker.


Lower the volume knob in your sub and you should have fewer problems.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I am considering moving to the Tivo Premiere from my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD cable DVR and wanted to hear from those who currently own a Series 3 HD Tivo and an AVM 50v or D2v. Any issues between the Anthem and Tivo?



Thanks in advance.



Regards,


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18290119
> 
> 
> OK, so these volume trims say the volume knob on your sub is over 10dB too high. ARC gets upset if it sees 10dB differential between speakers or between different mic positions for the same speaker.
> 
> 
> Lower the volume knob in your sub and you should have fewer problems.
> 
> --Bob



bob, i'll follow your lead when i remeasure tomorrow, but, honestly i am confused.

i have been having problems with one mic position reading 12db low[for the sub] of the others.

When i set up for the measurement, using the rat shack gizmo set to plan, i read 73 db.( the recommended for two subs[yes, i measure as one only] )

If I reduce the sub's setting so that the R/S shows 63 db, how is this going to resolve my issues??

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Given the trim it is using, it is more likely it is actually complaining the sub combo is too loud compared to the other speakers. Perhaps the error message is confusing.


You don't happen to have one of the subs positioned right at the ARC mic #1 position do you? The volume trims are determined by the Measurements at the #1 position.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

I was having a few handshake issues, so I decided to download and install v1.47f. I figured it would be safe since my video board was red. The download and install went without any problems, and it resolved my handshake issues. Last night, I watched The Incredible Hulk on regular TV (FIOS). I had to look over to double check that I was not playing the blu-ray. WOW!!!! I know the release notes, for v1.47f, said it contains code for HDMI; but, did they slip in some changes for audio? Now, just watching regular TV sounds like I am listening to blu-ray, and blu-ray just sounds ABSOLUTELY AMAZING. So, I decided to really test it out today by watching Terminator Salvation. Normally, I watch with the volume on -10. Today, I had to actually turn it down to -15. So, after the movie, I double checked my settings and trims, because I thought that maybe the firmware update may have screwed something up; but, everything looked the way it was suppose to. So, I decided to just upload my last ARC Measurements anyway. After doing that, I watched Fast & Furious on blu-ray, and I was just amazed at the sound that I was hearing. All I can say is that v1.47f has taken my system to another level, and I LIKE IT!!!!!!!


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/18295578
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I am considering moving to the Tivo Premiere from my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD cable DVR and wanted to hear from those who currently own a Series 3 HD Tivo and an AVM 50v or D2v. Any issues between the Anthem and Tivo?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



I have a Series 3/D2v and so long as I have a specific resolution set 720p or 1080i, the two play well together. I have noticed in the last couple of weeks, when changing from a Blu-Ray input to the TIVO, I lose audio and must toggle to a unused input to regain it. The Video, however, locks up fine.


----------



## MikeCornika

Hi Bob

Like I said, I have done the jump, so I’m a new owner of an D2V. Without your knowledge and the others of this forum, I’m not sure if I’ve done this. That been said, I have a first question: concerning the video calibration for a DVD player, you suggest using the lowest setting for video in the player. I’m using a Denon 3930 with a Realta, what is your recommendation in this case, to go 480i in the player and the D2V to do the conversion or to go with 1080p in Denon? I’m connected HDMI.

For the blue ray, what is your opinion?

I’m like sure you have already answer this but the tread is like 1000 pages, no so easy to search into.

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The starting point should be as discussed in "Video calibration for non-ISF techs" -- see the post link in the first post of this thread: Set each source to do as little as possible to the content and let the Anthem due the work as much as possible.


For SD-DVD that means sending 480i to the D2v. For Blu-Ray, movies will be on disc as 1080p/24 and that's what you should send to the D2v. Video-based content such as live concert Blu-Rays will be on disc as 1080i/60, so send that to the D2v. Extras on Blu-Ray discs may be SD and so send 480i to the D2v. Typical players will have automatic settings that do this for you, at least to some degree. Some players may not offer all of this. For example the PS3 won't output 480i -- only de-interlaced to 480p.


Now, after you've done the best you can setting things up THIS WAY, then you can experiment with having your player do some or all of the video processing. Sometimes there are convenience features in the player that will only be available if you let it do the processing -- for example easy access to Zoom modes.


So you'll need to decide which video is better, and thus if you can take advantage of the convenience features in the player.


I don't know enough about your Denon player to give you a leg up on this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18296870
> 
> 
> I have a Series 3/D2v and so long as I have a specific resolution set 720p or 1080i, the two play well together. I have noticed in the last couple of weeks, when changing from a Blu-Ray input to the TIVO, I lose audio and must toggle to a unused input to regain it. The Video, however, locks up fine.



This is a failure of the D2v to recognize the digital audio input as valid data -- not an HDMI problem. The firmware is trying to mute invalid data so you don't hear noise. Anthem has been tweaking this algorithm in recent firmware. The "test" firmware versions beyond "official" V2.08 do this somewhat better than V2.08.


If you lose audio this way from a source where you can interrupt the audio stream (as for example with Pause on the Tivo), you will likely find that just a Pause/Play combo will get you your audio back.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18296580
> 
> 
> I was having a few handshake issues, so I decided to download and install v1.47f. I figured it would be safe since my video board was red. The download and install went without any problems, and it resolved my handshake issues. Last night, I watched The Incredible Hulk on regular TV (FIOS). I had to look over to double check that I was not playing the blu-ray. WOW!!!! I know the release notes, for v1.47f, said it contains code for HDMI; but, did they slip in some changes for audio? Now, just watching regular TV sounds like I am listening to blu-ray, and blu-ray just sounds ABSOLUTELY AMAZING. So, I decided to really test it out today by watching Terminator Salvation. Normally, I watch with the volume on -10. Today, I had to actually turn it down to -15. So, after the movie, I double checked my settings and trims, because I thought that maybe the firmware update may have screwed something up; but, everything looked the way it was suppose to. So, I decided to just upload my last ARC Measurements anyway. After doing that, I watched Fast & Furious on blu-ray, and I was just amazed at the sound that I was hearing. All I can say is that v1.47f has taken my system to another level, and I LIKE IT!!!!!!!



I'm glad it's working so well for you, but there are supposedly no audio improvements in the "test" V1.47x firmware versions.


Evidently, instead, something was not working correctly in your prior V1.33 setup. It would be an interesting experiment to re-install V1.33, reload your ARC setup, and see if the audio stays as improved as you have it now in V1.47f. I.e., that a V1.33 re-install to begin with might have given you this same improvement.


But I don't actually suggest you do this. Just enjoy what you have now. If it ain't broke don't fix it!










--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18297541
> 
> 
> I'm glad it's working so well for you, but there are supposedly no audio improvements in the "test" V1.47x firmware versions.
> 
> 
> Evidently, instead, something was not working correctly in your prior V1.33 setup. It would be an interesting experiment to re-install V1.33, reload your ARC setup, and see if the audio stays as improved as you have it now in V1.47f. I.e., that a V1.33 re-install to begin with might have given you this same improvement.
> 
> 
> But I don't actually suggest you do this. Just enjoy what you have now. If it ain't broke don't fix it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I gave some serious thought to reinstalling v1.33 to see if I still noticed the improvement. But, I decided not to and leave well enough alone. I agree that something in v1.33 was not working correctly based on what I'm hearing now with v1.47f. Whatever it was, it's fixed now, and I am going to enjoy this. So, I am going to follow the advice from your last sentence. "If it ain't broke don't fix it!".


----------



## yacht422

Bob:

no. sometimes the first measurement is fine - but, the second gives me grief. one (or 2 or 3) of the sub measurements are too low, relative to #1 position. when i set things up, the sub(only measure one) db is 73 on the r/s tool. yet, when the actual measurements are presented, often there will be four reading of, say, 83 db, and one at 73[which is where they all should be].

at any rate, i am going at it again this am.

will report back

again, as always, my appreciation.

walt

--Bob[/quote]


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/18299015
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> no. sometimes the first measurement is fine - but, the second gives me grief. one (or 2 or 3) of the sub measurements are too low, relative to #1 position. when i set things up, the sub(only measure one) db is 73 on the r/s tool. yet, when the actual measurements are presented, often there will be four reading of, say, 83 db, and one at 73[which is where they all should be].
> 
> at any rate, i am going at it again this am.
> 
> will report back
> 
> again, as always, my appreciation.
> 
> walt
> 
> --Bob



[/quote]

I'm sorry, I don't follow what you posted. What do you mean four readings of say 83dB. Are you talking about the charts? Or trying to use the Level Calibration test tones after Uploading the ARC results? Or something you are doing with the SPL meter during the ARC sweep tones? Or what?


Clearly something is screwed up, but I'm not sure what since I can't picture what you say is happening.


We may need to go back to basics here. What version of firmware? What version of ARC. How have you got your speakers wired? Are the subs standalone (simple, single wire to each from a sub output of the Anthem), or are you running LF/RF to them or running wires from them to LF/RF as well? No other electronics between the Anthem and the subs? Are you using "1 Sub" in your Setup menu as you need to with ARC?


Some subs will go into protect mode (lower volume) if you drive them too hard. Do you think that might be happening?

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

sorry for the delay in responding - just as i finished measuring, the site went down.

also sorry for the confusion i caused. to be brief: all my systems are fine. using v1.33 and latest arc, all work fine, save the sub measurement issue, and i will not go there ever again!!!!!

the completeness of you response to me is greatly appreciated - many possible issues were covered - a typical bob missive, but all is well there.

i am electing to post the latest measurements for review. i keep adding acoustical elements, and moving speakers a little at a time, hoping to remove the hump at 50H with the mains, and "fill the gaps" in the surrounds at the 1500 _range_.

again, my appreciation.

walt


----------



## akopperl

Do any owners of the D2v or AVM50v experience audio dropouts when watching HDTV via a DirecTV DVR? To my knowledge, the dropouts only occur when the audio format is Dolby Digital. I have read threads for several other products that reference audio dropouts and I was trying to ascertain if the dropouts are caused by the broadcaster/DirecTV or the processor/receiver manufacturer.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's pretty common for cable/satellite broadcasts to have audio glitches. I.e., glitches that are in the content sent to your set top box rather than a problem with the box itself or the rest of your system.


If you have a DVR, one way to distinguish such things is to play back a recorded program. If the glitch occurs at the same spot every time you play over it, then it is likely in the transmitted content itself.


Audio glitches with DVRs can also sometimes mean the disk drive in the DVR is starting to have problems. Some years back, DirecTV DVRs were kind of notorious for this. One symptom was that the dropouts happened using one of the two tuners much more than when using the other one (because they buffer to different areas of the failing disc).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/18301989
> 
> 
> sorry for the delay in responding - just as i finished measuring, the site went down.
> 
> also sorry for the confusion i caused. to be brief: all my systems are fine. using v1.33 and latest arc, all work fine, save the sub measurement issue, and i will not go there ever again!!!!!
> 
> the completeness of you response to me is greatly appreciated - many possible issues were covered - a typical bob missive, but all is well there.
> 
> i am electing to post the latest measurements for review. i keep adding acoustical elements, and moving speakers a little at a time, hoping to remove the hump at 50H with the mains, and "fill the gaps" in the surrounds at the 1500 _range_.
> 
> again, my appreciation.
> 
> walt



Raising the cutoff/crossover for Center a bit might help handle that residual error around 60Hz. Try 65, 70, or 75Hz. You can experiment like that without having to re-Measure. You won't be losing anything -- the lower frequencies will go to your sub.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18302743
> 
> 
> Raising the cutoff/crossover for Center a bit might help handle that residual error around 60Hz. Try 65, 70, or 75Hz. You can experiment like that without having to re-Measure. You won't be losing anything -- the lower frequencies will go to your sub.
> 
> --Bob



i moved it to 80 to agree with the surrounds. looks much better.

thank you

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/18304072
> 
> 
> i moved it to 80 to agree with the surrounds. looks much better.
> 
> thank you
> 
> walt



Good! 80Hz is fine, particular to avoid a response problem like you have at 60Hz. There's actually quite a lot of bass put into the Center channel for most movies, so if your Center has a bass problem and your sub is good, it makes sense to let the sub carry the load. Below 80Hz, bass is not localizable, so it doesn't matter that you've moved its origin to the sub's location in the room. (For newbies: You don't want to go higher if at all possible because that would start moving the low end of dialog from Center into the sub, which is not a good thing.)

--Bob


----------



## Joelc

Bob et. al.


I have, as noted in other posts within this thread, ordered an D2v. I have not however taken delivery of it and with all the recent hoopla surrounding HDMI 1.4 I am curious as whether you or anyone else has answers to the following:


1. Is the D2v's architecture such that the HDMI 1.3 circuit board can be simply be replaced by an HDMI 1.4 circuit board?


2. This being my first Anthem component what has their past practice been regarding upgrades as new units become available in terms of i) policy ii) pricing iii) timeline / window and iv) etc.


3. What changes / improvement do you think Anthem could / would make to a new unit noting that my guesses would be i) HDMI 1.4 ii) ethernet /internet connectivity iii) ARC V 3.0 (which would likely mean more MIPs).


I should perhaps explain that my concern stems from i) recently being badly burnt by Meridian's upgrade policy and ii) the cost of an upgrade for me would involve not only the cost of the new Anthem unit but also the cost of having my room equalized as I am planning on going being the equalization capabilities in the Anthem...


Your thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated...


Thanks,


Joel


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The HDMI hardware is part of the video board, which is the single most expensive component of the D2v. In addition, if you are going to actually DO anything with HDMI V1.4 (as opposed to just paying lip service to it by swapping in the chip and using it like V1.3) there are other changes needed to the design. I think it unlikely Anthem will rush to change over to HDMI V1.4.


We do not know what might be included in a follow-on product. We have no reason to believe a follow-on product is going to be available any time soon. In this type of gear, it is more common to focus on the quality of the audio/video rather than chasing after the features du jour.


So we can speculate about features, but don't fall into the trap of expecting a product like this to evolve the way things are done at companies that chug out 2 new product versions each year. The question is, what is it about HDMI V1.4 that would improve audio/video QUALITY in a real way that people can take advantage of right now.


In the past Anthem has offered upgrade programs -- send in your unit and get new hardware pieces swapped in. In the case of the AVM 50v and the D2v, Anthem originally intended to do that, but soon realized that the component changes people wanted were pretty much everything. So they switched to a trade-in program -- return your old unit and get an entirely new unit with a complete new unit warranty. Both the older upgrades and the recent trade-in stuff were NOT cheap. Some folks found it better to buy a new unit outright and sell their old unit themselves.


The bottom line in a product like this is that you should buy it intending to keep it for quite a while. If you think you'll be tempted to replace it in short order, then you should probably just wait to buy. But keep in mind that what you are buying is the audio/video quality -- including the flexibility to set things up "just right" and to get to the full power of the hardware. It is unlikely that the earliest products shipping with any feature du jour will be designed that way. So how long will you have to wait to get BOTH the quality and the feature? And what bugs will you be the first to discover in any brand new design?


At ANY point in time you will know of stuff coming 6 months from now that is being hyped as better than what's being sold now. Companies pay people big bucks to make sure you feel that way. Continuously.


Only you can decide what's important to you. But my advice is to not get too wrapped up in what's coming unless there is some specific capability you want which isn't available now.

--Bob


----------



## Joelc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18305059
> 
> 
> The HDMI hardware is part of the video board, which is the single most expensive component of the D2v. In addition, if you are going to actually DO anything with HDMI 1.4 (as opposed to just paying lip service to it by swapping in the chip and using it like V1.3) there are other changes needed to the design. I think it unlikely Anthem will rush to change over to HDMI 1.4.



Appreciate the insight particularly as it relates to i) actually DOING something with HDMI 1.4 and ii) thinking it unlikely that Anthem will rush to change.


To me the issue is not the change to HDMI 1.4 because as you correctly note it will NOT be something that I will be taking advantage of / using in the near term for the reasons noted in my earlier posting...that said, the issue of OTHER (i.e. audio) improvements made AT THE TIME OF AN HDMI 1.4 change / upgrade would be of interest to me....but, per your suggestion that a change to HDMI 1.4 is not imminent then logic dictates that neither would other changes...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18305059
> 
> 
> We do not know what might be included in a follow-on product. We have no reason to believe a follow-on product is going to be available any time soon. In this type of gear, it is more common to focus on the quality of the audio/video rather than chasing after the features du jour.



Appreciate reaffirming that you think it unlikely that Anthem will rush to change and bring on a follow-on product...that said, would it be fair to interpret "any time soon" to be in the order of 12+ months...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18305059
> 
> 
> So we can speculate about features, but don't fall into the trap of expecting a product like this to evolve the way things are done at companies that chug out 2 new product versions each year. The question is, what is it about HDMI V1.4 that would improve audio/video QUALITY in a real way that people can take advantage of right now.



Could not agree with you more...the sensitivity I have is related to my recent experience with Meridian and, once again, I have no issue in paying for QUALITY improvements I just do not want to have to do so within the next 12 to 18 months and, as a result, am doing whatever I can to better understand the company, the product and related philosophies to be comfortable that this will not be the case...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18305059
> 
> 
> In the past Anthem has offered upgrade programs -- send in your unit and get new hardware pieces swapped in. In the case of the AVM 50v and the D2v, Anthem originally intended to do that, but soon realized that the component changes people wanted were pretty much everything. So they switched to a trade-in program -- return your old unit and get an entirely new unit with a complete new unit warranty. Both the older upgrades and the recent trade-in stuff were NOT cheap. Some folks found it better to buy a new unit outright and sell their old unit themselves.



Helpful information...one more point on this, was there a time line / window by which owners had to exercise their trade-in option?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18305059
> 
> 
> The bottom line in a product like this is that you should buy it intending to keep it for quite a while. If you think you'll be tempted to replace it in short order, then you should probably just wait to buy. But keep in mind that what you are buying is the audio/video quality -- including the flexibility to set things up "just right" and to get to the full power of the hardware. It is unlikely that the earliest products shipping with any feature du jour will be designed that way. So how long will you have to wait to get BOTH the quality and the feature? And what bugs will you be the first to discover in any brand new design?



I do NOT believe or buy into the "wait to buy" mentality as one would ALWAYS be on the sidelines...for example, once the HMDI 1.4 hoopla plays itself out with respect to 3D there will most certainly be HDMI 1.5 hoopla regarding 4K or who knows what down the road...


I DO believe in buying when needed and protecting yourself as much as possible by making as informed of a decision as possible and understand the company / philosophy one is buying into...


To me -- and I believe that you have covered this -- is making sure that i) it is unlikely that anything new will be released within the next 12 (and hopefully more) months ii) it is unlikely that anything will be released without there being a TRUE incremental quality gain and iii) there will be (based on past practice) a trade-in/upgrade program of sorts that does not leave current owners "out in the cold"...what else, if anything, could/should a prospective owner do in terms of due diligence?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18305059
> 
> 
> At ANY point in time you will know of stuff coming 6 months from now that is being hyped as better than what's being sold now. Companies pay people big bucks to make sure you feel that way. Continuously.



True enough...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18305059
> 
> 
> Only you can decide what's important to you. But my advice is to not get too wrapped up in what's coming unless there is some specific capability you want which isn't available now.
> 
> 
> --Bob



True enough...and wise as the goal is to sit back and enjoy the experience / film and not stress of over the next BEST/GREAT thing...


Very much appreciate your insight and response...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't know about deadlines on trade in. Anthem had a direct to factory trade in program for owners moving up to the D2v and AVM 50v, but we've had some posts here suggesting that might have expired.


Folks who purchased the D2 or AVM 50 *AFTER* the new models were announced got a bonus 1/2 off coupon for a trade-in good for a year.


Regardless of what the factory does, there's also always the idea of working a trade-in deal with your dealer. The dealer has a special advantage in re-selling a used Anthem unit in that this is the only way the remaining portion of the warranty will transfer to the new owner.


My guess at this point is that the earliest we could see the announcement of a new unit would be the beginning of next year. Typically, they ship about 4 months after they announce. The trade show event that works best for them is CEDIA which is in September each year, but I don't think they'll have a new product for this year's CEDIA. We really have no hints yet of any new product in development.

--Bob


----------



## Joelc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18305676
> 
> 
> I don't know about deadlines on trade in. Anthem had a direct to factory trade in program for owners moving up to the D2v and AVM 50v, but we've had some posts here suggesting that might have expired.
> 
> 
> Folks who purchased the D2 or AVM 50 *AFTER* the new models were announced got a bonus 1/2 off coupon for a trade-in good for a year.
> 
> 
> Regardless of what the factory does, there's also always the idea of working a trade-in deal with your dealer. The dealer has a special advantage in re-selling a used Anthem unit in that this is the only way the remaining portion of the warranty will transfer to the new owner.
> 
> 
> My guess at this point is that the earliest we could see the announcement of a new unit would be the beginning of next year. Typically, they ship about 4 months after they announce. The trade show event that works best for them is CEDIA which is in September each year, but I don't think they'll have a new product for this year's CEDIA. We really have no hints yet of any new product in development.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks so very much, your assistance is truly appreciated...


Joel


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Guys, I bought a dealer demo D2v and am trying to run ARC on it now. I have all the original ARC kit, microphone, cd-rom, etc. I know that the software is tied to the serial number of the unit, but again, I have the correct cd-rom with correct serial number stamped on it, and it matches my D2v and everything.


I loaded the latest ARC from the anthem website onto my laptop, rather than the CD-rom version which is a bit old I'm sure. When I connect the Mic and D2v and try to run ARC, it says it found the processor with serial number X, but that is cannot find the calibration files with the proper serial number.


How do I generate those serialized files, again, having never loaded ARC in the past, though I'm sure the dealer calibrated it in his room once upon a time.


Help please? Thanks guys.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

On your computer, go to Program Files on your main drive and dive down a bit until you find where the ARC V2.4 application itself was installed from the kit you downloaded.


Now insert the original ARC install CD. If the installer starts automatically, just cancel out of it. Now on the install CD, dive down until you find the older ARC application file. In that same folder you will find TWO files with names made of numbers. The numbers are the combo of your processor serial number and the ARC mic serial number.


Drag those two files, both of them, from the CD to the install location for V2.4 you found above so that they get copied into that folder with the installed ARC V2.4 app itself.


Eject the install CD. You are done.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Got it, thanks Bob, not sure how I missed those files initially. I had explored the disk and all too, but obviously missed them. I had thought that the installer actually generated the files in concert with the processor at time of install, but obviously not. They are instead burned to each disc and tied to the serial number from the factory, not at time of install...makes sense actually.


Aright, I'm off to put my room back together, then do my first calibration tests with ARC. I don't want to do them with the current state of the room, with things not in their normal place  I'm heeding Anthem's warnings on room configuration changes, or new furniture, etc. etc. I'll be posting more questions soon I'm sure, but thank you sir, i'm good for now!


-Brian


----------



## adidadi

Can someone PLEASE help with this problem: The AVM 50V loses picture once in a while when playing discs from the Oppo BDP83 going into a JVC RS1.

Also, I set Oppo to Bitstream, and EVERYTHING shows up as DTS, even Dolby TRUE HD. It shows Dolby True HD on Oppo and selected in menu, yet on AVM 50v it says DTS and the red light is lit. Status confirms DTS. WTF?

Please help with both issues. This AVM has been soooooo glitchy with HDMI it is just horribly depressing. Thanks.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidadi* /forum/post/18311572
> 
> 
> Can someone PLEASE help with this problem: The AVM 50V loses picture once in a while when playing discs from the Oppo BDP83 going into a JVC RS1.
> 
> Also, I set Oppo to Bitstream, and EVERYTHING shows up as DTS, even Dolby TRUE HD. It shows Dolby True HD on Oppo and selected in menu, yet on AVM 50v it says DTS and the red light is lit. Status confirms DTS. WTF?
> 
> Please help with both issues. This AVM has been soooooo glitchy with HDMI it is just horribly depressing. Thanks.



I'm not sure why you would lose the picture but for the audio it sounds like you have "secondary audio" on in the Oppo. Secondary audio always forces the lossy sound track to play


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adidadi* /forum/post/18311572
> 
> 
> Can someone PLEASE help with this problem: The AVM 50V loses picture once in a while when playing discs from the Oppo BDP83 going into a JVC RS1.
> 
> Also, I set Oppo to Bitstream, and EVERYTHING shows up as DTS, even Dolby TRUE HD. It shows Dolby True HD on Oppo and selected in menu, yet on AVM 50v it says DTS and the red light is lit. Status confirms DTS. WTF?
> 
> Please help with both issues. This AVM has been soooooo glitchy with HDMI it is just horribly depressing. Thanks.



On the unexpected DTS audio, turn Secondary Audio OFF in the Oppo. When you enable Secondary Audio mixing, the Oppo has to decode the audio tracks so that it can mix in secondary audio if present, and then it re-encodes that combo back into DTS to send out. You should, of course be using HDMI audio to your AVM 50v from the Oppo.


---------------------------------


On the loss of video, first make sure you have the latest firmware in your Oppo. You can check the Support portion of the BDP-83 pages on the Oppo site for the version numbers to compare against what you can see in the Setup > Device Setup > Firmware Information portion of the Oppo. Be aware that the firmware comes in three pieces, so check you have the latest version of all 3 pieces.


Similarly, check the firmware in your AVM 50v. Press Select once on the remote to see that displayed. It should be V2.08.


If the problem still exists with the latest firmware, first try simplifying the HDMI handshake. In the AVM 50v, in Setup > Video Output, use an explicit HDMI Data type instead of Auto. YCbCr 4:4:4 would be the usual choice. Similarly in the HDMI Options in the Oppo, use an explicit format to the D2v.


In Setup > Source Setup in the AVM 50v for the Oppo input, set Auto Dig to OFF. In Video Source Adjust > Output while viewing the Oppo, set Frame Lock to OFF.


If the problem still exists, check your HDMI cables. Start by temporarily changing the AVM 50v output to your display to be 1080i/60 instead of 1080p/60. If 1080i/60 works without problems that suggests the cable to your projector needs to be upgraded to support the higher bandwidth 1080p/60.


Similarly, change the output of the Oppo temporarily to 1080i/60 instead of 1080p/60. If 1080i/60 works then that suggests a problem in the cable between the Oppo and the AVM 50v.

--Bob


----------



## adidadi

Incredible troubleshooting steps. Thank you kindly. Will try and post results. Thanks.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Bob, finished my first ARC measurements/calibration...let me know what you think. Ideas for improvement? I have several questions:


1. Does my established crossover for the Sub get overriden by the arc settings? I think I set it to 60 Hz, but I think it has moved now, is that normal? Just wanna make sure.


2. I have a very challenging room with tons of slap echo...i have tried to "deaden" it, but it's quite challenging...some work being done this summer might tame it a bit, but any ideas on what I could do to improve things?


Thanks as always for your insights.

-Brian

 

arc1main1.doc 85k . file

 

arc1main2.doc 85.5k . file


----------



## funlvr1965

Im using the D2 for audio only, one hdmi cable goes into hdmi1 (dvd1) but when I turn on the D2 it keeps defaulting to sat1 so I dont get any audio since it needs to be on the dvd input (hdmi1) so I have to manually select that input, also when I switch inputs on my lumagen (does switching), the D2 momentarily loses the handshake from the Lumagen then swtiches back to Sat1 input, Just got the unit back from Anthem on an unrelated issue, unit checked out fine but now I have this issue. I have been in the settings and I dont have sat and dvd set to hdmi1, only dvd input is set to hdmi1, any ideas on how to keep the D2 locked into the dvd input?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/18312436
> 
> 
> Im using the D2 for audio only, one hdmi cable goes into hdmi1 (dvd1) but when I turn on the D2 it keeps defaulting to sat1 so I dont get any audio since it needs to be on the dvd input (hdmi1) so I have to manually select that input, also when I switch inputs on my lumagen (does switching), the D2 momentarily loses the handshake from the Lumagen then swtiches back to Sat1 input, Just got the unit back from Anthem on an unrelated issue, unit checked out fine but now I have this issue. I have been in the settings and I dont have sat and dvd set to hdmi1, only dvd input is set to hdmi1, any ideas on how to keep the D2 locked into the dvd input?



I'm stumped. I can't think of anything you might have done wrong to make this happen.


You'd best give Anthem tech support a call. They may have some idea, how you could cause this, but I suspect they'll ask you to start with a fresh install of the firmware and with a Reload of Factory Defaults (with just the manual changes you need to make to test this) to see if the problem might be some corruption in your D2's internal settings.


In the interim of course, you can simply use the Sat 1 Source definition instead with that HDMI 1 input. I.e., set Sat 1 to look like your definition for DVD 1.


What's supposed to happen is that the unit powers on to the whatever Source it was last using when your powered it off UNLESS you power it on by pressing a Source button on the front panel -- or via a Timer.


Be sure you tell Anthem tech support that the Source is switching when the input stream is interrupted (i.e., when you are switching with your Lumagen). That's what pretty much nails down you don't have some sort of problem with Timers configuration or mis-use of the the Source Scan function or Auto Dig.

--Bob


----------



## funlvr1965

Thanks Bob I figured that the last selected source should come up, and why sat1?







anyway like you said maybe some sort of corruption since I didnt make any changes before I noticed the switching issue, I will give Piero a call tomorrow sometime.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18312285
> 
> 
> Bob, finished my first ARC measurements/calibration...let me know what you think. Ideas for improvement? I have several questions:
> 
> 
> 1. Does my established crossover for the Sub get overriden by the arc settings? I think I set it to 60 Hz, but I think it has moved now, is that normal? Just wanna make sure.
> 
> 
> 2. I have a very challenging room with tons of slap echo...i have tried to "deaden" it, but it's quite challenging...some work being done this summer might tame it a bit, but any ideas on what I could do to improve things?
> 
> 
> Thanks as always for your insights.
> 
> -Brian



Brian,

Not at all bad for a first try!


1) Did you do the exercise to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and also the volume knob on your sub prior to doing this pass? The basic volume level of your solution is up around 87dB. 75dB would be the usual target. So lower Test Level by about 10dB from whatever it is set to at this point. Also check the volume trim ARC Uploaded for your sub, and if it is not within a few dB of 0dB, separately adjust the volume knob in the sub to get it into closer balance with the rest of the speakers. E.g., if ARC Uploaded a sub volume trim of -8dB, that means it found the sub too hot, so lower the sub volume knob a bit before the next ARC pass.


2) You sub is showing good down to about 35Hz (the point at which its low frequency end drops below the basic volume level). This is not unusual for home theater subs, but there are subs that will go a good octave lower and I'm surprised yours doesn't since it seems to be doing quite well at the high end, and its low end roll off is not all that sharp. Double check that you don't have a subsonic filter turned on in it. If there is a subsonic filter (typically with a settings range from 20-35Hz) either disable it or turn it down to the lowest frequency. This may be masquerading as an adjustment for a sub being set up close to a wall. Lie to it and tell it your sub is NOT close to a wall even if it is.


3) I think your setup might be a good candidate to raise Max EQ Frequency Target above its default 5KHz setting. You can try that without having to re-Measure. Open your file in ARC's Advanced mode, go into the Targets window, make the change, accept the change, re-Calculate and re-Upload. Try 20KHz for example. Now you've got a Measurement dip at 15Khz that might be mic (or environment) related, but give it a try and see which you prefer.


4) Next time, capture your Targets window as well and post that along with your charts.


ARC calculates new crossovers for all the speakers (including the sub) and uploads them along with the volume trims and the room correction parameters.


The "cutoff" values in the Targets window will match the uploaded "crossovers" for all the speakers except the sub. The sub crossover (shaping the upper end of its response curve) will be distinct from its cutoff (determining how high up ARC assigns correction resources for the sub response. You can see the sub cutoff in Targets, but to see the crossover ARC has chosen for it you have to look in Setup after the ARC Upload.


I see no significant room problems you need to deal with beyond what you have already done. But I suggest you might play with the vertical tilt of Center and possibly the toe-in of LF/RF to reduce a bit of that high frequency roll-off showing in their Measurements (distinct from the 15KHz dip). Really only the Center curve needs work up there. LF/RF are not that bad as is, and with a higher Max EQ Frequency allowing ARC to correct up their, I think they will sound quite good indeed.

--Bob


----------



## emailtim

All,


The following is a repost from the Monoprice website. I know many of the Anthem owners have purchased cables from Monoprice, so please be aware of the following and check your associated credit cards.


HTH,

Tim

* www.monoprice.com *


Incident Background: Some of our customers recently reported to us that information from credit cards they used on the Monoprice website had been misused.


Our outside investigators have continued to review log files from our Internet-facing servers. They have not found evidence of any successful attempts to penetrate our computer system. Our internal IT staff found some suspicious files on one of our quarantined Web servers while they were reviewing files to build replacement servers.


We have identified the suspicious files to our outside investigators so that they can extract the files from the image of our servers that they made earlier. We asked them to let us know if the suspicious files are significant. We will post more information here about the investigation when we have it.


We are taking steps to re-launch our site early next week. We will not take credit card payments on the site initially but will take payments through PayPal Express and Google Checkout. We will let you know when the site is available. Thank you for your continued support.


For more update, please check our Facebook out.


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob,

Would you look at my latest ARC.

I modofied the Sub from 120hz to 140hz and the sub curve improved a lot. This change did not have much effect on other speakers. Would you review if I did a good job or I am loosing something. I appreciate it.

 

ARC C-Sub (Modified).doc 122.5k . file

 

ARC C-Sub (Original).doc 123k . file

 

Target.doc 135.5k . file

 

ARC FL-FR (Modofied).doc 123k . file

 

ARC FL-FR (Original).doc 127k . file


----------



## PArmola

Bob,


Do you know where I should set this sub as far as dials on the front other than volume. This would be prior to doing ARC. I set the volume using RS meter to +-75db. But need to know where to set the other controls.


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *emailtim* /forum/post/18312976
> 
> 
> All,
> 
> 
> The following is a repost from the Monoprice website. I know many of the Anthem owners have purchased cables from Monoprice, so please be aware of the following and check your associated credit cards.
> 
> 
> HTH,
> 
> Tim
> 
> * www.monoprice.com *
> 
> 
> Incident Background: Some of our customers recently reported to us that information from credit cards they used on the Monoprice website had been misused.
> 
> 
> Our outside investigators have continued to review log files from our Internet-facing servers. They have not found evidence of any successful attempts to penetrate our computer system. Our internal IT staff found some suspicious files on one of our quarantined Web servers while they were reviewing files to build replacement servers.
> 
> 
> We have identified the suspicious files to our outside investigators so that they can extract the files from the image of our servers that they made earlier. We asked them to let us know if the suspicious files are significant. We will post more information here about the investigation when we have it.
> 
> 
> We are taking steps to re-launch our site early next week. We will not take credit card payments on the site initially but will take payments through PayPal Express and Google Checkout. We will let you know when the site is available. Thank you for your continued support.
> 
> 
> For more update, please check our Facebook out.



I purchased some cables from their website late last month and guess what? Our cc# was hacked. The cc company phoned us on Sunday informing us of suspect charges. Upon further research there were a number of bad charges on our card and it was subsequently canceled.


Of course this may be a coincidence.


Regards


----------



## buddy4711

I have issues with my satellite box which is a dreambox 8000. When I set the box setting option for AC3 downmix to OFF I loose continously audio connnection while switching from a HD channel (sending AC3, DD 5.1 or 2.0) back to a channel sending regular SD. Then I have to either go into Anthem source setup menu or swtch off and on the box to get back the audio signal.


I have tried the box connected to D2 (with latest FW 1.33) with HDMI and also with Toslink, both with the Source setting Audio Digital on Auto and also to OFF, but that makes also no difference.


The purpose is to receive a non-downmixed AC3 signal from channels sending HD AC3 and a regular stereo signal from regular SD channels.


Soembody knows if this is an Anthem issue or a Dreambox fault?


thanks for any hints!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/18322256
> 
> 
> I have issues with my satellite box which is a dreambox 8000. When I set the box setting option for AC3 downmix to OFF I loose continously audio connnection while switching from a HD channel (sending AC3, DD 5.1 or 2.0) back to a channel sending regular SD. Then I have to either go into Anthem source setup menu or swtch off and on the box to get back the audio signal.
> 
> 
> I have tried the box connected to D2 (with latest FW 1.33) with HDMI and also with Toslink, both with the Source setting Audio Digital on Auto and also to OFF, but that makes also no difference.
> 
> 
> The purpose is to receive a non-downmixed AC3 signal from channels sending HD AC3 and a regular stereo signal from regular SD channels.
> 
> 
> Soembody knows if this is an Anthem issue or a Dreambox fault?
> 
> 
> thanks for any hints!



The Down Mix setting SHOULD be left to OFF, otherwise you can't get DD5.1 output.


Apparently your cable system still has a mix of analog and digital channels.


What you should be looking for is a setting in the set top box that enables digital audio output when viewing an analog audio channel. It may be called just about anything, but Audio = Digital or Audio = Bitstream are typical choices. When it is set properly, your SD channels will send DD2.0 over the HDMI (or Optical) cables even though they are broadcast with analog audio. Channels with digital audio will send either DD2.0 or DD5.1 depending on whether the audio content is multi-channel or not. This should work over either HDMI or Optical digital cable.


Now be aware that there are some older set top boxes out there which are incapable of converting analog stereo audio programs to digital stereo audio output. In such cases, you can still get what you want by ALSO hooking up a stereo RCA cable pair from the analog audio output of your box to the D2 stereo analog audio input for the Source you want to use. Then in Setup > Source Setup for that Source turn on Auto Dig. What this will do is use your specified DIGITAL audio input whenever digital audio is present on it. When the Digital audio input goes silent the D2 will automatically switch to using the ANALOG audio input. When the Digital audio returns, it will switch back to that. Expect a brief delay each time this changes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PArmola* /forum/post/18319880
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Do you know where I should set this sub as far as dials on the front other than volume. This would be prior to doing ARC. I set the volume using RS meter to +-75db. But need to know where to set the other controls.



I'm sorry, I'm not familiar enough with that subwoofer to advise you off the top of my head, and I don't have the time right now to research that one for you.


If you can describe what the other controls are supposed to do I might be able to help, or perhaps somebody else here uses that sub.


Typically what you want to do is disable or bypass any internal crossover in the sub (high frequency cutoff). If you can't disable it entirely, set it to the highest possible frequency setting to get it out of the way as much as possible. Note that a "THX" setting may force an 80Hz crossover, so don't use it.


You also want to bypass any subsonic filter (low frequency cutoff) in the sub or set it to the lowest frequency. Sometimes this masquerades as a setting for when your sub is close to a wall. Lie and say the sub is NOT close to a wall.


You also want to adjust Polarity and Phase to match your sub to your main speakers. See the post links in the Setup section of the first post of this thread for some guidance.


If this is a stand-alone (i.e., typical) subwoofer, the sub should be connected to the Anthem ONLY by a single wire from an Anthem sub output. And the sub should NOT be connected to any of your main speakers. Any other type of connection method produces a satellite, combo, sub setup which is more complicated.


If you only have one sub, Polarity and Phase can be adjusted AFTER you do your ARC setup if you wish.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18316126
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> Would you look at my latest ARC.
> 
> I modofied the Sub from 120hz to 140hz and the sub curve improved a lot. This change did not have much effect on other speakers. Would you review if I did a good job or I am loosing something. I appreciate it.



I'm loathe to fiddle with ARC's choices for the sub since there's stuff going on in the background that we don't really understand, such as the special way it handles LFE content.


The change you made hasn't hurt any of the other curves, and as far as bass steering goes it will only effect your Surrounds. The LF/RF/C crossover at 60Hz and the sub curves are identical down there.


At 100Hz, your new sub setting increases the sub output by about 1dB but the output from LS/RS remains the same. So the portion of bass they are steering (below 105Hz) will produce slightly louder output from the sub at that point. Now LS/RS are already descending from the Room Gain hump by that point, so this will have the effect of widening the hump a little further into the lower frequencies.


I don't see any real problem in that. Note the residual error in your original sub curve was small enough to ignore to begin with.


I think you can probably stay with your 140Hz choice. What changed in the "crossover" ARC Uploaded for your sub when you did that? I.e, what sub crossover did ARC Upload for your 120 and 140Hz sub cutoff settings?

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18322728
> 
> 
> I'm loathe to fiddle with ARC's choices for the sub since there's stuff going on in the background that we don't really understand, such as the special way it handles LFE content.
> 
> 
> The change you made hasn't hurt any of the other curves, and as far as bass steering goes it will only effect your Surrounds. The LF/RF/C crossover at 60Hz and the sub curves are identical down there.
> 
> 
> At 100Hz, your new sub setting increases the sub output by about 1dB but the output from LS/RS remains the same. So the portion of bass they are steering (below 105Hz) will produce slightly louder output from the sub at that point. Now LS/RS are already descending from the Room Gain hump by that point, so this will have the effect of widening the hump a little further into the lower frequencies.
> 
> 
> I don't see any real problem in that. Note the residual error in your original sub curve was small enough to ignore to begin with.
> 
> 
> I think you can probably stay with your 140Hz choice. What changed in the "crossover" ARC Uploaded for your sub when you did that? I.e, what sub crossover did ARC Upload for your 120 and 140Hz sub cutoff settings?
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for your time and help Bob.

ARC uploaded the same crossover of 60hz for both 120 hz and 140hz sub cutoff settings.


----------



## PArmola

Bob, it has four controls bypass which offers 40hz and 70hz only. One phase from 0 to 280, then two level controls. One is actually the volume level. The other is a lowend level between 0 (zero) and +- 3db. Can anyone advise before I do the ARC.


Paul


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

So i have liked my D2 from the start... I was one of the first owners. But i have been prevented from LOVING IT due to the ever-there HDMI drop outs... power ups and downs, Aspect ration issues etc... all mostly caused between my comcast dvr and the anthem (but not always). I also had my video board go out about 8 months ago and thus it was replaced by the newer red version.


So i have lived with these HDMI issues over the years but recently they had gotten even worse... I had switched out to comcast's latest DCX box which might have been part of the problem?? but I thought... its a newer box so it can't be worse? Anyway, it got so, so bad that I finally got a hold of tech support and also a push from Bob and i eventually installed the latest still "test firmware" for the D2 which is the upgrade from 1.33. 1.04f or whatever it is called.


I now LOVE the D2. All HDMI problems have thus far vanished. I even have the DCX unit set to output native so there is lots of handshaking but it is fast and efficeint and thus far (about 2 weeks) has been working perfectly. Gone are the blank screen and no video input messages causing a power off. Gone are the strange aspect ratios like a squeezed 4:3 image. Gone is the need to switch inputs, power on and off. Gone is the FEAR of "will this work" ever time I changed the channel. Also gone is the green vertical bar bug that was present on the older comcast units for some channels (this is due to the upgrade to the dcx).


I highly rec. that anyone with a D2 (or D2v) and comcast first exchange your comcast unit for a DCX version and then if a D2 owner (if you can upgrade) install the latest test version firmware for the D2. It now works like it should... and that is very nice.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^^Just a reminder to folks that the "test" V1.47f firmware for the original D2 and AVM 50 *DOES NOT WORK* on some older production runs of those two products. I do not know if Anthem is going to be able to complete porting those HDMI changes to those units. The units it DOES work on include better than 2/3 of the units shipped according to Nick.


Use a flashlight to check through the top heat vents in your D2 or AVM 50. If the video board (the large board at the top, right under the vents) is colored red, OR if you can see your power supply does NOT have a big, toroidal (donut shaped) transformer, then your unit is good to go for V1.47f. This is true, even if, say, you had your power supply or video board swapped out at some point for service.


If your video board is colored gray or green AND your power supply has the toroidal transformer, then your unit MIGHT still be OK for V1.47f, but there is no easy way for you to tell. And so you should play it safe and not install "test" V1.47f firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PArmola* /forum/post/18323057
> 
> 
> Bob, it has four controls bypass which offers 40hz and 70hz only. One phase from 0 to 280, then two level controls. One is actually the volume level. The other is a lowend level between 0 (zero) and +- 3db. Can anyone advise before I do the ARC.
> 
> 
> Paul



Phase you can adjust after doing ARC setup.


I suggest you start with the low-end volume at 0dB. If you have any better description of what they mean by "low-end" that would be useful. If it is controlling the subsonic volume level, you'll be able to see the effect at the low frequency end of its red, Measured curve in its ARC chart.


I've no idea what a "bypass" control might do. Are you sure it isn't a "crossover" control that has three setting choices, one of which is bypass? If so, bypass is what you want.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PArmola* /forum/post/18323057
> 
> 
> Bob, it has four controls bypass which offers 40hz and 70hz only. One phase from 0 to 280, then two level controls. One is actually the volume level. The other is a lowend level between 0 (zero) and +- 3db. Can anyone advise before I do the ARC.
> 
> 
> Paul



Not Bob,


Volume= via RS meter 75dB

25hertz knob=0

50 hertz knob 0

Hi pass filter- Bypass

Low pass= 80 hertz

Phase=0 degrees, if the sub is in front


Alvin


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^^If you can bypass the "low pass filter" entirely or set it to a higher frequency, that would likely be better. The "low pass filter" is likely the crossover, and you don't want the sub artificially limiting its response above 80Hz as ARC will take care of the necessary crossover processing.


Phase will need to be tested (can be done after ARC setup). 0 degrees may very well be correct and is certainly a good starting point for a sub in the front of the room, but it is not automatically correct.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I would think he would want the Low Pass either Bypassed or as high as it goes....Not Bob either.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18324753
> 
> 
> I would think he would want the Low Pass either Bypassed or as high as it goes....Not Bob either.



I think there is no crossover bypass switch with the sub, therefore just the maximum LP setting of 80hz is suggested.


----------



## Texas steve

Any update on the upcoming fix for Dolby Volume?


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PArmola* /forum/post/18323057
> 
> 
> Bob, it has four controls bypass which offers 40hz and 70hz only. One phase from 0 to 280, then two level controls. One is actually the volume level. The other is a lowend level between 0 (zero) and +- 3db. Can anyone advise before I do the ARC.
> 
> 
> Paul



Paul,


The High Pass Filter affects only the sub's output. If you are using only the LFE input, this filter is inactive.


The 25Hz Level control may be used to control any peak or dip. Set it to 0, run ARC and, depending on your curve, use the setting to correct the peak or dip in the 25Hz region, then rerun ARC till you get a satisfactory curve.


Ben


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18324257
> 
> 
> Not Bob,
> 
> 
> Volume= via RS meter 75dB
> 
> 25hertz knob=0
> 
> 50 hertz knob 0
> 
> Hi pass filter- Bypass
> 
> Low pass= 80 hertz
> 
> Phase=0 degrees, if the sub is in front
> 
> 
> Alvin



Alvin,

I believe he has the older Descent (not the "i"). This unit has no control for 50Hz, only one for 25Hz.

Ben


----------



## PArmola

You guys are right. I have the older Descent. The phase offers from 0 to 270, Low Pass 40hz or 70hz, level (volume), 25hz level -3db - 0 - +3db.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18327330
> 
> 
> Any update on the upcoming fix for Dolby Volume?



Last word I got was about 2 weeks ago, when Nick said they wanted to bundle in some other audio fixes at the same time. No ETA on that.

--Bob


----------



## Egan

I just received a new Pioneer Kuro 6020 plasma HDTV replacing a Sony SXRD. I have DirecTV with both an HR-21 HD DVR and an SD DirecTivo, inputted to a D2. Picture from the HD DVR is great, but picture from the Tivo is now only in black and white. In setup changed color space to SDTV, HDTV, and auto, still B & W pic. Anybody have a suggestion as to the problem?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/18330335
> 
> 
> I just received a new Pioneer Kuro 6020 plasma HDTV replacing a Sony SXRD. I have DirecTV with both an HR-21 HD DVR and an SD DirecTivo, inputted to a D2. Picture from the HD DVR is great, but picture from the Tivo is now only in black and white. In setup changed color space to SDTV, HDTV, and auto, still B & W pic. Anybody have a suggestion as to the problem?



The most likely cause of this is that you don't have the cable properly connected between the Tivo and the D2. What type of cabling are you using? If Component cable, make sure all 3 plugs at BOTH ends are connected to the correct jacks. Keep in mind that audio jacks are often adjacent to Component jacks so make sure you don't have two of the plugs plugged into audio instead of video at the Tivo end. At the D2 end make sure all 3 plugs are connected to the same Component input (e.g., Comp 1).


Less likely is that you have accidentally turned off the Color for that input in the D2. While viewing the incorrect B&W video, press the "7" button until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up. In the Picture panel, check that Color is near the default (50) for that input.


If you are using S-video cabling from the Tivo, you can also lose color if the Video ADC controls are not set properly (also in Video Source Adjust > Picture while viewing the tivo).

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18329668
> 
> 
> Alvin,
> 
> I believe he has the older Descent (not the "i"). This unit has no control for 50Hz, only one for 25Hz.
> 
> Ben



Ah OK! Thanks.


----------



## Egan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18330415
> 
> 
> The most likely cause of this is that you don't have the cable properly connected between the Tivo and the D2. What type of cabling are you using? If Component cable, make sure all 3 plugs at BOTH ends are connected to the correct jacks. Keep in mind that audio jacks are often adjacent to Component jacks so make sure you don't have two of the plugs plugged into audio instead of video at the Tivo end. At the D2 end make sure all 3 plugs are connected to the same Component input (e.g., Comp 1).
> 
> 
> Less likely is that you have accidentally turned off the Color for that input in the D2. While viewing the incorrect B&W video, press the "7" button until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up. In the Picture panel, check that Color is near the default (50) for that input.
> 
> 
> If you are using S-video cabling from the Tivo, you can also lose color if the Video ADC controls are not set properly (also in Video Source Adjust > Picture while viewing the tivo).
> 
> --Bob



Bob thanks for the reply. I checked out your suggestions, using a S-video out. Everything seemed ok in terms of settings but still only black and white picture. I was going to switch to composite to see if that worked, but thought to check the S-video cable and make sure it was plugged in good, sure enough it had come out a bit somehow, and now have color again. I guess that's something I should have checked first but I assumed I would have no picture at all if the cable was loose or had come out. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/18333305
> 
> 
> Bob thanks for the reply. I checked out your suggestions, using a S-video out. Everything seemed ok in terms of settings but still only black and white picture. I was going to switch to composite to see if that worked, but thought to check the S-video cable and make sure it was plugged in good, sure enough it had come out a bit somehow, and now have color again. I guess that's something I should have checked first but I assumed I would have no picture at all if the cable was loose or had come out. Thanks again.



Great! Yeah the S-video connectors can be temperamental like that. S-video splits out the color component from the luminance, so it is possible to have the gray scale connected and not have a good connection for the color signal.

--Bob


----------



## Joelc

I may have a problem and would like to get advice form the experts here....


The ANTHEM Statement D2v up samples every audio signal to 24 bit / 192 KHz resolution which is a fantastic thing...the ASHLY ne24.24M DSP/EQ unit (see www.ashly.com/ne2424m.html )t hat is being recommended for my home theater has a 24 bit / 48 KHz resolution...this means, at least to me, that the ANTHEM's up sampling is being "thrown away" as the all audio signals will be down sampled by the ASHLY...


With that the questions are:


1. Am I correct that it makes little sense to down sample the ANTHEM's audio signal (i.e. down sampling 192 KHz to 48 KHz is bad and should be avoided at all costs)?


2. And, should the answer to 1. above be yes then:


a. What would be better between simply using the ANTHEM without an additional DSP / EQ unit (please provide the rationale for your response)?


b. Which DSP/EQ units should I be considering in the event that an additional / third party DSP / EQ unit would be needed? I have looked at the Trinnov unit which is very impressive but yikes, it is expensive!


With your response please note that I will be using 4 subwoofers in my setup and ideally need / want to have separate control over each.


TIA...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Joel,

DTS HD and Dolby TrueHD audio tracks are also available up to 192KHz.


The processing in the D2v preserves that. Perhaps more importantly, the D2v upsamples more traditional 48KHz tracks to 192KHz prior to doing any processing on them.


The reason this is important is that digital audio processing can introduce artifacts. Here's a post I made on that some time ago:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...64&post8079464 


Now, your Ashly box is never going to see the digital audio used this way inside the D2v. The Ashly will be connected to the analog speaker outputs of the D2v so it will see the resultant D2v audio AFTER it has been converted back to analog. Analog audio doesn't have "sampling rates" like this. It just has bandwidth traits.


Your Ashly box almost certainly does its audio processing in the digital domain. So it will take the analog audio coming out of the D2v and RE-digitize it prior to processing. And it uses a 24 bit sample size and 48KHz sample rate to do that.


To the extent the original audio content was 48KHz that means you aren't losing anything. The D2v preserves the quality from in to out. To the extent the original audio content was 96KHz or 192KHz you will be losing some of the quality, but it is going to be tough to discern the difference.


Perhaps what's more important is that if the Ashly does its internal processing at 48KHz the digital processing effects I mentioned above (avoided in the D2v) may be audible.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joelc* /forum/post/18335555
> 
> 
> a. What would be better between simply using the ANTHEM without an additional DSP / EQ unit (please provide the rationale for your response)?



I'm Surprised Mr. Expert - Bob - and I mean that as a true complement

- did not answer the primary question. I think using the mentioned ASHLY

is a *TOTAL WASTE of money* and may only *degrade* the performance of

your Anthem D2v.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joelc* /forum/post/18335555
> 
> 
> a. What would be better between simply using the ANTHEM without an additional DSP / EQ unit (please provide the rationale for your response)?
> 
> 
> b. Which DSP/EQ units should I be considering in the event that an additional / third party DSP / EQ unit would be needed? I have looked at the Trinnov unit which is very impressive but yikes, it is expensive!



Trinnov is roomEQ, and you already have that in the Anthem, so it's unnecessary.


Aside from control of 4 subs, what do you seek from the additional EQ? Creating a House Curve--tweaking to taste? I certainly get that, and use the SSP-800's PEQ to do so.



> Quote:
> With your response please note that I will be using 4 subwoofers in my setup and ideally need / want to have separate control over each.



Adjusting the interactions of 4 subwoofers can be rather daunting. Have you considered the JBL BassQ ? It controls 4 separate subs, can be run compatibly with ARC, and can work with manual EQ inserted between the D2v and the BassQ. More importantly, it cancels room modes.


----------



## obie_fl

If you are just trying to control your four subs and not put your full range signal through the Ashly I don't think you will have any issues. I guess my question is what exactly are you trying to do with the Ashly that the Anthem with ARC can't? I have three subs and I find that between ARC and proper placement things are handled well.


Having said all that the number one item on my wish list for the next Anthem is more subchannels, would like to see at least a 7.3 unit.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

With four subs, he'll need separate volume control and Polarity/Phase control for each of them. If the subs don't offer that on their own, he'll need something between the Anthem and the subs to do that to get a good ARC solution.


Roger's suggestions make a lot of sense.


Using the Ashly just for the sub controls (not also for sub EQ, and bypassing it for the other speakers) also would work for an ARC-only solution. Of course it is overkill for just that use.


Once the sub control is taken care of, I tend to agree with DRHANKZ that the outcome may be that Joel ends up preferring an ARC-only solution to either an Ashly-only solution or an Ashly + ARC combo. But you don't really know until you get there.

--Bob


----------



## Joelc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18335811
> 
> 
> Joel,
> 
> 
> DTS HD and Dolby TrueHD audio tracks are also available up to 192KHz.
> 
> 
> The processing in the D2v preserves that. Perhaps more importantly, the D2v upsamples more traditional 48KHz tracks to 192KHz prior to doing any processing on them.
> 
> 
> The reason this is important is that digital audio processing can introduce artifacts. Here's a post I made on that some time ago:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...64&post8079464
> 
> 
> Now, your Ashly box is never going to see the digital audio used this way inside the D2v. The Ashly will be connected to the analog speaker outputs of the D2v so it will see the resultant D2v audio AFTER it has been converted back to analog. Analog audio doesn't have "sampling rates" like this. It just has bandwidth traits.
> 
> 
> Your Ashly box almost certainly does its audio processing in the digital domain. So it will take the analog audio coming out of the D2v and RE-digitize it prior to processing. And it uses a 24 bit sample size and 48KHz sample rate to do that.
> 
> 
> To the extent the original audio content was 48KHz that means you aren't losing anything. The D2v preserves the quality from in to out. To the extent the original audio content was 96KHz or 192KHz you will be losing some of the quality, but it is going to be tough to discern the difference.
> 
> Perhaps what's more important is that if the Ashly does its internal processing at 48KHz the digital processing effects I mentioned above (avoided in the D2v) may be audible.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Appreciate the answer as well as the speed of the answer...that said, I was with you all the way until the last paragraph which I have highlighted in red and would thus:


1. Appreciate you explaining / further expanding on this statement as it is not clear to me; and


2. Confirm my understanding of your response to the initial question as to whether the Ashly adds any benefit / value other than the ability to individually calibrate / control each of my 4 subwoofers. The consensus seems to be to let ARC EQ the L/C/R/SR/RR/RL/SL speakers, let ARC EQ the subs and let the AShly (or other unit) control the subs in terms of phase and volume. Do I have this correct?


Thanks so very much.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joelc* /forum/post/18336307
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Appreciate the answer as well as the speed of the answer...that said, I was with you all the way until the last paragraph which I have highlighted in red and would thus:
> 
> 
> 1. Appreciate you explaining / further expanding on this statement as it is not clear to me; and
> 
> 
> 2. Confirm my understanding of your response to the initial question as to whether the Ashly adds any benefit / value other than the ability to individually calibrate / control each of my 4 subwoofers. The consensus seems to be to let ARC EQ the L/C/R/SR/RR/RL/SL speakers, let ARC EQ the subs and let the AShly (or other unit) control the subs in terms of phase and volume. Do I have this correct?
> 
> 
> Thanks so very much.



On (2): The Ashly is a sophisticated unit that requires adjustment by an experienced audio calibrator using high quality audio test tools. If the right person is doing the tuning you will likely get great results from it.


But not necessarily better than what ARC can do for you -- presuming you have some other means to handle the sub gain/polarity/phase controls for your 4 subs. ARC really is amazingly good all on its own. And you can do it yourself.


Now when you have multiple subs the situation gets more complex. ARC will take care of correcting the 4 sub response as a combo. If the sub volumes and phase adjustments have already been taken care of, that's often ALL that's needed. However some folks have had better luck using a specialized sub EQ system to go beyond just volume and phase and do some adjustment of each sub's individual response -- only one sub playing at a time. The idea is that when you play all 4 subs together (for ARC Measurement for example), ARC will hear a cleaner combo sound without the idiosyncrasies due to placement (for example) of each individual sub. You STILL need to get the sub volumes and phases adjusted but now you've gone beyond that and smoothed each sub's response before ARC hears the combo.


You COULD use the Ashly this way (for sub control and also sub EQ, but just pass through or bypassed for the other speakers) but I suspect it is overkill for that.


The trade-off is that each additional processing step you add is one more place for things to go wrong. The idiosyncrasies of the extra processor -- any limitations it might add in terms of clipping or whatever, and any artifacts it might produce -- may outweigh its benefits given what ARC could do WITHOUT adding the extra processor.


And that brings us to (1).


That post I sent you to talks about sampling rate and its interaction with digital audio processing. Apparently the Ashly samples the input analog audio channels at 24-bit 48KHz. If it also PROCESSES the resulting digital audio at 48KHz then it may introduce audible digital audio processing artifacts. If, on the other hand, it upsamples that input to 96KHz or 192KHz after digitizing it, then there may be no such problem. I don't know what the Ashly does internally so I don't know whether this is a problem.


(For your information: Your D2v can digitize analog audio input up to 96KHz sampling rate. That then gets upsampled to 192KHz before any digital audio processing.)


------------------------------------------


Now you might also ask, if you like the Ashly and are comfortable with the process of getting it set up, why not just build an ARC solution on top of what the Ashly does? I.e., why not do for ALL speakers what I mentioned above as doing for just the subs -- a separate sub EQ that smooths each sub's response before ARC hears it?


The problem is that the Ashly most likely wants to do crossover processing -- bass steering from the main speaker channels to the subs. But so does ARC. Whatever "best" solution you come up with for the Ashly alone will fix in stone how bass moves between the main speakers and the subs. So ARC can't hear the main speakers all by themselves (some bass sent to LF will end up being played by the subs for example) and ARC can't MODIFY the bass steering in any useful way.


So you've just crippled ARC's ability to do the job.


This is not a problem when you set up just an external sub EQ, because you set it to allow ALL bass frequencies to go to the sub, and adjust the sub response as best you can without any roll off at high or low frequencies. ARC then hears that modified sub response and adjusts what frequencies ACTUALLY get sent to the sub combo according to how it Measures. Meanwhile, ARC adjust bass steering from all the other speakers to the sub combo according to what the other speakers need and the Measured sub combo can provide. There's no external crossover processing (e.g., Ashly) getting in the way.


So I don't want to dismiss the Ashly. I've never heard it, and certainly never heard it set up properly. But I suspect one of the solutions Roger pointed you too might be better for you. Velodyne also has a sub control and eq product, the SMS. Paradigm sells something called the Perfect Bass Kit (PBK) which is actually built into some of their subwoofers. It is the subwoofer-only portion of ARC modified to run on hardware inside the sub itself.

--Bob


----------



## Joelc

Bob:


As always, much appreciated...the complexities in getting the best / ultimate system increase exponentially...!


----------



## buddy4711




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18322515
> 
> 
> The Down Mix setting SHOULD be left to OFF, otherwise you can't get DD5.1 output.
> 
> 
> Apparently your cable system still has a mix of analog and digital channels.
> 
> 
> What you should be looking for is a setting in the set top box that enables digital audio output when viewing an analog audio channel. It may be called just about anything, but Audio = Digital or Audio = Bitstream are typical choices. When it is set properly, your SD channels will send DD2.0 over the HDMI (or Optical) cables even though they are broadcast with analog audio. Channels with digital audio will send either DD2.0 or DD5.1 depending on whether the audio content is multi-channel or not. This should work over either HDMI or Optical digital cable.
> 
> 
> Now be aware that there are some older set top boxes out there which are incapable of converting analog stereo audio programs to digital stereo audio output. In such cases, you can still get what you want by ALSO hooking up a stereo RCA cable pair from the analog audio output of your box to the D2 stereo analog audio input for the Source you want to use. Then in Setup > Source Setup for that Source turn on Auto Dig. What this will do is use your specified DIGITAL audio input whenever digital audio is present on it. When the Digital audio input goes silent the D2 will automatically switch to using the ANALOG audio input. When the Digital audio returns, it will switch back to that. Expect a brief delay each time this changes.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


thanks a lot for you kind input and suggestions! As a matter of facts I was able to find the problem and solve the issue following your suggestions.


I tried the analog audio connection which first did not work either. Then I found out that there is a permanent signal coming from the sat box on all the possible connections, which I had active in the meantime (HDMI, Toslink, digital coax and analog Audio), but for some reasons the D2 could not deal with them after switching from DD channel to a MPEG channel without switching the box off or go into Anthems source setup menu.


So I concluded that there was something wrong in the D2! And true -you will not believe it- I found out what caused the problem: for some "historic" reasons my sat box was connected on the VCR position (although HDMI and Toslink is independent from this as long as the corresponding HDMI and/or Toslink number in the source setup for VCR is correct). When switching in the source setup menu from VCR to the Satellite position it worked immediately on each of the cable connections (HDMI, toslink, coax) !


Who would think of something like that? Obviously it is not the same if a specific source (in this case the sat box) is connected with HDMI (lets say HDMI2) and configured in the source setup as such within the VCR position or in the SAT Position. I think it has something to do with the Auto Digital Option set to YES which might not properly work in the source setup VCR position (but does in the SAT position). This might be a small but very disastrous bug (as in my case)?


I am curious what you say to this mistery....


That leads me to another remark/question: why do we not receive any newer firmwares for the original D2 since I believe more than a year and sitting with v1.33


One more item which I do not understand is the following: when the source is sending multichannel DD one can check this by pressing multiple times on the OK button on the remote by cycling through the menu until the audio input information are displayed by "L C R SL SR". But when i go into the On-screen menu (by pressing the nr 7 button) and go to the info section the audio source is shown as "2-CH Fs: NA". This looks like wrong to me. Another bug?


thanks again and regards


Juerg (Switzerland)


----------



## Egan

I plan on getting a new plasma TV ISF calibrated after I get past 150 hours, was wondering if the D2's video processing "complicates" things?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/18339835
> 
> 
> I plan on getting a new plasma TV ISF calibrated after I get past 150 hours, was wondering if the D2's video processing "complicates" things?



It shouldn't. The D2 sends out "reference quality" video signals, so if your ISF guy adjusts the display to do the correct thing when fed correct signals it should all just work.


If for some reason your display needs correction that can not be achieved through its own internal settings, then the ISF guy may try to use the settings in the D2 to make up for that. For example, the D2 can be set to do Gamma Correction -- modifying its video output to correct for Gamma errors in the display. But typically the ISF guy will find a solution that just involves settings in the display.


In addition, if any of your source devices put out video that has problems, and you've asked the ISF guy to do that part of the setup, then he may find it easier to correct via the D2's input adjustments rather than via settings in the problem source device.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/18337604
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> thanks a lot for you kind input and suggestions! As a matter of facts I was able to find the problem and solve the issue following your suggestions.
> 
> 
> I tried the analog audio connection which first did not work either. Then I found out that there is a permanent signal coming from the sat box on all the possible connections, which I had active in the meantime (HDMI, Toslink, digital coax and analog Audio), but for some reasons the D2 could not deal with them after switching from DD channel to a MPEG channel without switching the box off or go into Anthems source setup menu.
> 
> 
> So I concluded that there was something wrong in the D2! And true -you will not believe it- I found out what caused the problem: for some "historic" reasons my sat box was connected on the VCR position (although HDMI and Toslink is independent from this as long as the corresponding HDMI and/or Toslink number in the source setup for VCR is correct). When switching in the source setup menu from VCR to the Satellite position it worked immediately on each of the cable connections (HDMI, toslink, coax) !
> 
> 
> Who would think of something like that? Obviously it is not the same if a specific source (in this case the sat box) is connected with HDMI (lets say HDMI2) and configured in the source setup as such within the VCR position or in the SAT Position. I think it has something to do with the Auto Digital Option set to YES which might not properly work in the source setup VCR position (but does in the SAT position). This might be a small but very disastrous bug (as in my case)?
> 
> 
> I am curious what you say to this mistery....
> 
> 
> That leads me to another remark/question: why do we not receive any newer firmwares for the original D2 since I believe more than a year and sitting with v1.33
> 
> 
> One more item which I do not understand is the following: when the source is sending multichannel DD one can check this by pressing multiple times on the OK button on the remote by cycling through the menu until the audio input information are displayed by "L C R SL SR". But when i go into the On-screen menu (by pressing the nr 7 button) and go to the info section the audio source is shown as "2-CH Fs: NA". This looks like wrong to me. Another bug?
> 
> 
> thanks again and regards
> 
> 
> Juerg (Switzerland)



The incorrect info in the Video Source Adjust > Info panel is a long standing bug as you've found out. Since the Select button displays give the correct info, Anthem never made it a priority to fix that.


The problem you found using the VCR input is a new one to me. I don't recall any other reports quite like this. It might be related to Auto Dig as you suggest, or something may simply have gotten corrupted in your settings for that input. To check that you would need to Save your settings, Reload Factory defaults, and then re-enter just the minimal settings by hand to test and see if the same failure still occurs. In the extreme, you might need to re-install the firmware on top of itself to clean things up. However since you have it working now, my recommendation would be to just leave well enough alone.


There is a "test" firmware version V1.47f for the D2 on Anthem's password protected download page. It ports HDMI changes from the D2v to the D2. There are a few other bug fixes as well. Unfortunately it does not work on all D2 production units. If you can see through the vents on the top of your D2 that you have a red video board (the big board at the top just under the vents) OR that your power supply does NOT have the big toroidal (donut shaped) transformer then if either of those is true your D2 is OK for this firmware. Send Anthem tech support an email asking for the access info.

--Bob


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Egan* /forum/post/18339835
> 
> 
> I plan on getting a new plasma TV ISF calibrated after I get past 150 hours, was wondering if the D2's video processing "complicates" things?



Greetings,


Congrats on getting the display calibrated! Since the D2 is in the video chain it should be included in the calibration. Also since there are some video controls in the D2 the calibrator (and yourself) will have certain options. You should consider that each video source is a little different than each other. If all video sources are run through a central receiver and hosed to the display you (still) need to account for differences in each source. That means one source may need the black level different that another source. Of course you also want this to be automatic so you don't have to change a bunch of settings when you change a source. So you'll have options. I suggest you ask the calibrator to look at the users manual for the D2 and consider those controls in the overall calibration. Treat the calibration as a system and not a display and you'll be fine.


I recently did a calibration with a plasma display, two each Blu-ray DVD players (different brands), cable STB and an AVM50 processor. Before calibration he had video stuttering, or cadence judder. Everything worked out great, including 30 fps and 24 fps sources. The customer was happy










Regards


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/18337604
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> thanks a lot for you kind input and suggestions! As a matter of facts I was able to find the problem and solve the issue following your suggestions.
> 
> 
> I tried the analog audio connection which first did not work either. Then I found out that there is a permanent signal coming from the sat box on all the possible connections, which I had active in the meantime (HDMI, Toslink, digital coax and analog Audio), but for some reasons the D2 could not deal with them after switching from DD channel to a MPEG channel without switching the box off or go into Anthems source setup menu.
> 
> 
> So I concluded that there was something wrong in the D2! And true -you will not believe it- I found out what caused the problem: for some "historic" reasons my sat box was connected on the VCR position (although HDMI and Toslink is independent from this as long as the corresponding HDMI and/or Toslink number in the source setup for VCR is correct). When switching in the source setup menu from VCR to the Satellite position it worked immediately on each of the cable connections (HDMI, toslink, coax) !
> 
> 
> Who would think of something like that? Obviously it is not the same if a specific source (in this case the sat box) is connected with HDMI (lets say HDMI2) and configured in the source setup as such within the VCR position or in the SAT Position. I think it has something to do with the Auto Digital Option set to YES which might not properly work in the source setup VCR position (but does in the SAT position). This might be a small but very disastrous bug (as in my case)?
> 
> 
> I am curious what you say to this mistery....
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> thanks again and regards
> 
> 
> Juerg (Switzerland)



Let me take another stab at this.


As I understand it you are saying that you tried to use analog inputs in conjunction with Auto Dig (as I suggested in my earlier post above). Your analog inputs were correctly connected to the Sat RCA jack pair but your digital input was from the Coax cable attached to the VCR input.


And that did not work, but when you switched the Coax cable to the Sat input it did work. Correct?


That could be a bug in Auto Dig such that when the digital audio went away on that VCR Coax input it tried to get analog audio from the VCR RCA jack pair (nothing connected) instead of the Sat RCA jack pair as it should have. If that's what was going on it would be easy to test by simply having some other stereo analog source play into the VCR RCA jack stereo pair while you try it again. If that other analog source audio is heard when the digital audio stops from your set top box (i.e., when Auto Dig tries to switch to analog input) then that's what's going on. And yes that would be a bug.


I don't recall any prior report of a bug like that, but it is easy to see how folks might not have stumbled into it.

--Bob


----------



## buddy4711




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18342378
> 
> 
> Let me take another stab at this.
> 
> 
> As I understand it you are saying that you tried to use analog inputs in conjunction with Auto Dig (as I suggested in my earlier post above). Your analog inputs were correctly connected to the Sat RCA jack pair but your digital input was from the Coax cable attached to the VCR input.
> 
> 
> And that did not work, but when you switched the Coax cable to the Sat input it did work. Correct?
> 
> 
> That could be a bug in Auto Dig such that when the digital audio went away on that VCR Coax input it tried to get analog audio from the VCR RCA jack pair (nothing connected) instead of the Sat RCA jack pair as it should have. If that's what was going on it would be easy to test by simply having some other stereo analog source play into the VCR RCA jack stereo pair while you try it again. If that other analog source audio is heard when the digital audio stops from your set top box (i.e., when Auto Dig tries to switch to analog input) then that's what's going on. And yes that would be a bug.
> 
> 
> I don't recall any prior report of a bug like that, but it is easy to see how folks might not have stumbled into it.
> 
> --Bob



No. the coax as well as the analog audio were both in the same position, namely into VCR (coax for digital input and anaog audio for analog input). When I replugged both cables into the SAT position AND I made the source setup changes into the Satellite menu position for the signal of my satellite box it worked immediately. And in this source setup position it worked also with purely HDMI or Toslink cables (off course after all I have removed the toslink, coax and analog cables again and run it just with the HDMI).


Must be a bug in the software since before figuring out the problem I actually did a reinstallation of the latest firmware 1.33 (but reloaded my user settings again after the reinstallation).


I leave it now (never change a running system...) but will try the new 1.47 fw.

thanks and regards.


juerg


----------



## veneziana

Hi to all,

this is my 1st post on this forum....I'm Andrea and I live in Florence...


I've buyed D2v last week and I have some problems with it....


this is the 1st.. ARC...


I have windows 7 32 bits with an usb-to-serial converter "manhattan"

when I lanc arc software it don't recognize the anthem processor.

I've set 2 bit stop in converter.


I don't understand how is the procedure for calibrate


PS: excuse for my English!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veneziana* /forum/post/18345714
> 
> 
> Hi to all,
> 
> this is my 1st post on this forum....I'm Andrea and I live in Florence...
> 
> 
> I've buyed D2v last week and I have some problems with it....
> 
> 
> this is the 1st.. ARC...
> 
> 
> I have windows 7 32 bits with an usb-to-serial converter "manhattan"
> 
> when I lanc arc software it don't recognize the anthem processor.
> 
> I've set 2 bit stop in converter.
> 
> 
> I don't understand how is the procedure for calibrate
> 
> 
> PS: excuse for my English!!!



Welcome to the Forum!


The problem is most likely with your usb-to-serial converter. Some converters really don't work very well. You may also need to update the Windows 7 driver for your "manhattan" converter. See the Drivers link here for Windows 7 and note that it says you need a particular version or newer of the driver (or perhaps they mean of Windows 7 itself) if using Windows 7:

http://www.manhattan-products.com/en...rial-converter 


(This is the only "manhattan" converter I found that might work with Windows 7. Check that the model number matches the one you are using.)


If that doesn't work, I suggest you try to find a Keyspan USA-19HS USB/serial converter. That seems to be the converter that works best. Here's one place that sells it in the US:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_i=507846 


If you replace the converter, you should UN-install the driver for the old converter before installing the new converter.


Another possible cause of the problem is the serial cable. You should use the cable that came with your D2v. If you use a different cable, make sure it is a "straight through" cable -- pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9 directly. It is easy to get a "null modem" cable by mistake. A null modem cable looks identical but swaps one pair of pins and will not work with the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Depending on the age of your D2v for a short time Anthem had boxed the wrong 232 cable in with their processor. This caused a lot of issues for us (ask me how I know). the WRONG cable was a white cable and at the end on the white plastic covering that surrounded the connector it said "NULL"! So check this. IF it is the wrong one Anthem will replace it, but its quicker to just go to a store and buy one.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18345967
> 
> 
> Welcome to the Forum!
> 
> 
> The problem is most likely with your usb-to-serial converter. Some converters really don't work very well. You may also need to update the Windows 7 driver for your "manhattan" converter. See the Drivers link here for Windows 7 and note that it says you need a particular version or newer of the driver (or perhaps they mean of Windows 7 itself) if using Windows 7:
> 
> http://www.manhattan-products.com/en...rial-converter
> 
> 
> (This is the only "manhattan" converter I found that might work with Windows 7. Check that the model number matches the one you are using.)
> 
> 
> If that doesn't work, I suggest you try to find a Keyspan USA-19HS USB/serial converter. That seems to be the converter that works best. Here's one place that sells it in the US:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000VYJRY/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_t1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=14AV5Y6V75YWR0D9EE7Q&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846
> 
> 
> If you replace the converter, you should UN-install the driver for the old converter before installing the new converter.
> 
> 
> Another possible cause of the problem is the serial cable. You should use the cable that came with your D2v. If you use a different cable, make sure it is a "straight through" cable -- pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9 directly. It is easy to get a "null modem" cable by mistake. A null modem cable looks identical but swaps one pair of pins and will not work with the D2v.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## MikeCornika

Hi Veneziana,

Me too i'm new on the D2V owner, and i have a similar problem like yours. Fortunately I have kept a older Celeron computer with a COM port and everything works fine.

My unit was shipped with 2.08 firmware and no problems with his RS232 cable.

Bob,

I have a first question: - when I run ARC, before I have set the Test Level at 75 dBs (with a analog SPL). After i have run the ARC, the curves are around 85 dBs. I'll do a copy from the old computer to paste on.

Second question: - the save options are not really for the ARC curves, but for input user settings. When ARC results are ready we do only the upload and that's all. All time I supposed I have to save the ARC settings in "Save User Settings" but it seems I was wrong.

Last question: - what can be the maximum gap between the measured and calculated values.

Thanks.

PS. - the jump from Marantz 8001 receiver to D2V was worth for me. Thousands thanks again.


----------



## mkaye

i got my D2v & hooked it up yesterday

been playing with ARC

here are my results

i am pretty sure the dips on the L channel are due to 1st reflections - i'll have to get some treatments for that side wall

how do they look?


mark


----------



## veneziana

thanks,

I've buyed d2v last week....the cable is white...

Now I've buyed a new usb converter...the cable must be null modem or straight?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veneziana* /forum/post/18345714
> 
> 
> Hi to all,
> 
> this is my 1st post on this forum....I'm Andrea and I live in Florence...
> 
> 
> I've buyed D2v last week and I have some problems with it....
> 
> 
> this is the 1st.. ARC...
> 
> 
> I have windows 7 32 bits with an usb-to-serial converter "manhattan"
> 
> when I lanc arc software it don't recognize the anthem processor.
> 
> I've set 2 bit stop in converter.
> 
> 
> I don't understand how is the procedure for calibrate
> 
> 
> PS: excuse for my English!!!



The keyspan converter is available for you from a European source at
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Keyspan-High...qid=1269105617


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18346431
> 
> 
> Hi Veneziana,
> 
> Me too i'm new on the D2V owner, and i have a similar problem like yours. Fortunately I have kept a older Celeron computer with a COM port and everything works fine.
> 
> My unit was shipped with 2.08 firmware and no problems with his RS232 cable.
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I have a first question: - when I run ARC, before I have set the Test Level at 75 dBs (with a analog SPL). After i have run the ARC, the curves are around 85 dBs. I'll do a copy from the old computer to paste on.
> 
> Second question: - the save options are not really for the ARC curves, but for input user settings. When ARC results are ready we do only the upload and that's all. All time I supposed I have to save the ARC settings in "Save User Settings" but it seems I was wrong.
> 
> Last question: - what can be the maximum gap between the measured and calculated values.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> PS. - the jump from Marantz 8001 receiver to D2V was worth for me. Thousands thanks again.



Some folks have been experiencing a problem where the effect of the Test Level setting is off by 6dB high. Try lowering Test Level an additional 6dB prior to your next ARC Measurement pass.


Also check the volume trims that ARC Uploaded to make sure they are all within a few dB of 0dB. If ARC had to make any extreme adjustments that too can affect what ARC has to use for the basic volume. The usual culprit here would be the subwoofer if you haven't already adjusted the volume knob in the sub to get it roughly in balance with the rest of the speakers. So if, for example, your sub volume trim, as Uploaded by ARC is -8dB, that means ARC found the sub too loud. So lower the volume knob on the sub a bit before your next ARC Measurement pass.


----------------------------------------


The ARC Upload moves everything necessary to the Anthem -- both Setup menu settings and also the Room Correction parameters (which are in a hidden memory you can not view). Now after you do an ARC Upload, if you start modifying the Setup menu settings ARC has Uploaded then you will break the ARC solution -- i.e., you won't get the result ARC has designed for you. The Setup menu settings Upload by ARC are the speaker configuration (which speakers are live), the speaker volume trims, and the speaker crossovers. One common mistake that people make is to Reload Saved User or Installer Settings at some point after doing an ARC Upload -- thus wiping out the Setup menu changes ARC Uploaded. And so it is good practice, after you do an ARC Upload, to Save User and Installer Settings to capture the Setup menu changes into those memories so that you can safely Reload from those memories at some later point. This is in Setup > Save and Reload Settings of course.


NOTE: If you ever think you MIGHT have changed a Setup menu setting ARC Uploaded, but aren't sure what the correct value should be, you can always just redo the Upload. Double-click on your ARC results file and then click on Upload. Then Save User/Installer Settings afterwards so you can use them to quickly restore things in the future.


The Save menu items in the ARC application itself refer to the ARC results file on your Windows PC. But you don't need to use them for that either because the ARC application automatically writes changes to the results file on the PC as you make them. To see that in action, just write protect your ARC results file, open it up in ARC and start making changes. You'll get an error message each time the ARC application tries to write to that file.


--------------------------------------


ARC will not try to boost Measured results more than 6dB in order to protect the speakers and amps. ARC can cut Measured results more than that.


So if the gap between Measured and Target is more than 6dB, and it requires a boost to fix, you will likely have a residual error. That is the green Calculated curve will not be raised as high as the black dashed Target curve.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veneziana* /forum/post/18346463
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> I've buyed d2v last week....the cable is white...
> 
> Now I've buyed a new usb converter...the cable must be null modem or straight?



The cable MUST be straight -- pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9. Null modem cable will not work.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18346455
> 
> 
> i got my D2v & hooked it up yesterday
> 
> been playing with ARC
> 
> here are my results
> 
> i am pretty sure the dips on the L channel are due to 1st reflections - i'll have to get some treatments for that side wall
> 
> how do they look?
> 
> 
> mark



Yes, you need to work on LF. Some repositioning might do the trick -- perhaps further from the wall behind it. Also consider a corner bass trap behind it. I'm assuming it doesn't have any configuration controls for bass and low mid-range like a bass port you might have set incorrectly.


Check the pointing of your speakers to see if you can reduce the dip at 15KHz. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to the vertical pointing. LF/RF should be toed in partway towards center seating. A good rule of thumb is to swing them only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular to the screen towards the center seating location.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18346095
> 
> 
> Depending on the age of your D2v for a short time Anthem had boxed the wrong 232 cable in with their processor. This caused a lot of issues for us (ask me how I know). the WRONG cable was a white cable and at the end on the white plastic covering that surrounded the connector it said "NULL"! So check this. IF it is the wrong one Anthem will replace it, but its quicker to just go to a store and buy one.



Nick tells me they believe they have retrieved and replaced ALL of the small number of faulty cables that got shipped. So nobody should be having that particular problem at this point.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Stereo Analog audio from Oppo BDP-83*


The old hands here will know that I've been recommending from the day dot that you use HDMI for all your audio from the Oppo BDP-83. That's still my recommendation, but I found reason today to hook up the Stereo Analog audio outputs from the Oppo as well.


What I wanted to do was set up a "Watch TV While Listening to CD" activity. This lets me, for example, watch baseball games without having to put up with the idiot announcers.


The problem is that HDMI audio is embedded in the HDMI video signal (it's multiplexed into the video blanking intervals). That means the D2v can't extract audio from an HDMI input without "processing" that HDMI input, and there is only one such processing path in the D2v.


So you can't listen to HDMI audio while also watching processed video from any other source.


But the stereo analog outputs from the Oppo give me another path to get the audio which I can combine with processed video from my Comcast box.


Of course I use that audio input with ANALOG-DSP so that the stereo analog input is fully processed by the D2v, including ARC.


Now to set this up for best quality audio, one thing you want to be sure to do is to go into Setup > ADC and raise the sampling rate for stereo analog input digitizing to 96KHz from the default 44.1KHz (a default that's in there solely for output compatibility to digital audio recorders).


I also discovered something I hadn't realized before, which is that if you want to adjust Setup > Analog Input Levels you must select the line for the Source of interest, regardless of which analog input jack pair you are actually using. I.e., if the 2-Channel source is set to use the CD RCA stereo analog jack pair for analog input, then in Setup > Analog Input Levels you need to adjust the 2-Channel line to alter that. Not the CD line.


As it turns out, you don't need to do any such adjustment from the Oppo. The analog output level it produces on its stereo outputs (when playing stereo content), matches "reference" level as established via HDMI audio -- i.e., with the Analog Input Level left at its default 0dB setting.


NOTE: If you play multi-channel content in the Oppo via its Stereo Analog outputs, two things will happen. First, LFE content is discarded (not mixed into the output). Second, the volume level is reduced below "reference" by a few dB. Both of these are done in the Oppo to prevent the possibility of clipping that may occur due to mixing the other audio channels into that L/R output pair. Also note that if you play an HDCD disc with HDCD Decoding enabled in the Oppo, the volume level will be 6dB lower than you might expect. This is as per the HDCD spec -- to allow for the extra dynamic range present in the special HDCD encoding.


In the course of all this, I had a chance to do another comparison of stereo analog audio from the Oppo vs. stereo HDMI audio. The analog audio sounds excellent, but so far I've not found any reason to prefer it over the HDMI -- or vice versa for that matter. This is a testament not only to the quality of the Oppo analog output, but also the quality of the re-digitizing of that input in the D2v.


NOTE: I'm using a standard Oppo BDP-83, not the special edition BDP-83SE which has a souped up analog audio design.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Good to hear, it was just a possibility that I thought worth a look.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18346599
> 
> 
> Nick tells me they believe they have retrieved and replaced ALL of the small number of faulty cables that got shipped. So nobody should be having that particular problem at this point.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Absolutely. If the mistake was made once, it can be made again.


But the bad batch of cables which included the one you got should not be out there any longer.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18341771
> 
> 
> If you can see through the vents on the top of your D2 that you have a red video board (the big board at the top just under the vents) OR that your power supply does NOT have the big toroidal (donut shaped) transformer then if either of those is true your D2 is OK for this firmware. Send Anthem tech support an email asking for the access info.
> 
> --Bob



Can the power supply be seen thru the vents?

If so, where would it be located.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/18349077
> 
> 
> Can the power supply be seen thru the vents?
> 
> If so, where would it be located.
> 
> Tom



Sure, it runs the full length, front to back, on the right side of the chassis as you face the front panel -- the same side of the chassis where the power cord connects to the back and where the back panel power switch is located.

--Bob


----------



## mkaye

they are Studio 100's v2, so no controls

i did set them to LARGE, but i thought ARC ignored that anyway

i have them ~2' out from the rear wall and ~2.5' from the side walls, slightly toed in ~1/3 of the way (i used EFX software and my radio shack meter years ago to get the L/R into the best positions)

why the bass trap behind it?

the room is 13x24 and has a large bay window at the back (there is a heavy motorized rubbery fabric that i had dropped down, that i thought might explain the 15k dip for the fronts, but not the surrounds)

i don't have an issue with the RF because there is a window at the 1st reflection point and i have a blackout shade


mark



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18346593
> 
> 
> Yes, you need to work on LF. Some repositioning might do the trick -- perhaps further from the wall behind it. Also consider a corner bass trap behind it. I'm assuming it doesn't have any configuration controls for bass and low mid-range like a bass port you might have set incorrectly.
> 
> 
> Check the pointing of your speakers to see if you can reduce the dip at 15KHz. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to the vertical pointing. LF/RF should be toed in partway towards center seating. A good rule of thumb is to swing them only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular to the screen towards the center seating location.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18347732
> 
> *Stereo Analog audio from Oppo BDP-83*
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob




Nice one Bob, looks like material for Page 1 of this thread...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18349878
> 
> 
> they are Studio 100's v2, so no controls
> 
> i did set them to LARGE, but i thought ARC ignored that anyway
> 
> i have them ~2' out from the rear wall and ~2.5' from the side walls, slightly toed in ~1/3 of the way (i used EFX software and my radio shack meter years ago to get the L/R into the best positions)
> 
> why the bass trap behind it?
> 
> the room is 13x24 and has a large bay window at the back (there is a heavy motorized rubbery fabric that i had dropped down, that i thought might explain the 15k dip for the fronts, but not the surrounds)
> 
> i don't have an issue with the RF because there is a window at the 1st reflection point and i have a blackout shade
> 
> 
> mark



My studio 100s were two feet out from the back wall and I moved them another foot and the dip disappeared especially the LF. The studio 100's don't like back walls









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18349878
> 
> 
> they are Studio 100's v2, so no controls
> 
> i did set them to LARGE, but i thought ARC ignored that anyway
> 
> i have them ~2' out from the rear wall and ~2.5' from the side walls, slightly toed in ~1/3 of the way (i used EFX software and my radio shack meter years ago to get the L/R into the best positions)
> 
> why the bass trap behind it?
> 
> the room is 13x24 and has a large bay window at the back (there is a heavy motorized rubbery fabric that i had dropped down, that i thought might explain the 15k dip for the fronts, but not the surrounds)
> 
> i don't have an issue with the RF because there is a window at the 1st reflection point and i have a blackout shade
> 
> 
> mark



The Large/Small settings are indeed ignored by ARC and replaced by Advanced settings when ARC does the UPLOAD.


The interactions between reflections and direct radiation from the speakers is what causes a lot of problems and although the reflection from the side walls is important, there is also an important reflection from the wall/corner BEHIND the speaker. That's why speaker distance from the wall/corner behind them can make a big difference, and that's why, sometimes, a bass trap in the corners behind the fronts can make a big difference.


Your dip at 15KHz is so consistent across the speakers that it looks suspiciously like a mic problem up there or something else we don't understand about the way you are using the mic or your environment in the room. The point is, you can fix almost all of that by raising Max EQ Frequency in the Targets window (and then doing a re-Calculation and re-Upload), but if the data is faulty up there the results might not sound right even though the charts look better.


Anyway the first problem is to fix the lower frequencies for LF (repositioning LF or the bass traps), and then you can experiment with raising Max EQ Frequency and seeing if you prefer that result in your listening.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/18350275
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
> 
> Stereo Analog audio from Oppo BDP-83
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice one Bob, looks like material for Page 1 of this thread...
Click to expand...


How about the SPDIF ? would that also have worked for you, it would have avoided double d->a a->d conversion.


----------



## tngiloy

I had my on screen menu disappear a few days ago with v1.33. I reinstalled v1.33 and that took care of the onscreen problem , but not my handshake problems.

I decided to try v1.47f on my D2 because of some handshake issues. I checked to make sure I had the red video board (I do), and I couldn't see the donut power unit, so I felt safe.

The install seemed to go well.

I reinstalled my user settings and went into the menu. As I went thru the 'source setting' to check the settings, I would lose the on screen video. For example from DVD1 to DVD2 in the source setup menu the video would disappear for 5-10 seconds, the reappear. After this happened a few times, then the on screen menu disappeared completely.


So, again following the v1.47f install instructions I again installed v1.47f. All, again, went well. But the on screen video problems in the setup menu persisted.


I decided to go back to v1.33, but when I tried to install v1.33 it seemed to freeze up.

Following all the instructions, I clicked on 'intall now'. 'D2 unit found' and my D2 turned on and switched to fm/mute, but it would not progress from there. I could hear clicking coming from the D2, as if it was trying to turn off an on, but there were no blue squares moving across the progress bar, and it continued to say 'D2 found', but I couldn't move the windows arrow to abort.

The only way I could get out was to power down the D2 by the toggle switch under the power cord, and to turn off my laptop by its power button.


Fortunatly the D2 didn't brick- v1.47 is loaded and it works OK other than the on screen menu.


I would like to go back to v1.33. I think I may need to 'flash erase', but I would like to have step by step instructions so that I don't brick my unit.


Help would be greatly appreciated.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/18350568
> 
> 
> How about the SPDIF ? would that also have worked for you, it would have avoided double d->a a->d conversion.



The digital audio available on the SPDIF has its own limitations that do not exist with the analog outs. For example you won't get the full dynamic range from HDCD discs nor can you play stereo SACD that way.


But really I just did the stereo analog hookup because if I was going to do another hookup I wanted to give the analog a try.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/18350976
> 
> 
> I had my on screen menu disappear a few days ago with v1.33. I reinstalled v1.33 and that took care of the onscreen problem , but not my handshake problems.
> 
> I decided to try v1.47f on my D2 because of some handshake issues. I checked to make sure I had the red video board (I do), and I couldn't see the donut power unit, so I felt safe.
> 
> The install seemed to go well.
> 
> I reinstalled my user settings and went into the menu. As I went thru the 'source setting' to check the settings, I would lose the on screen video. For example from DVD1 to DVD2 in the source setup menu the video would disappear for 5-10 seconds, the reappear. After this happened a few times, then the on screen menu disappeared completely.
> 
> 
> So, again following the v1.47f install instructions I again installed v1.47f. All, again, went well. But the on screen video problems in the setup menu persisted.
> 
> 
> I decided to go back to v1.33, but when I tried to install v1.33 it seemed to freeze up.
> 
> Following all the instructions, I clicked on 'intall now'. 'D2 unit found' and my D2 turned on and switched to fm/mute, but it would not progress from there. I could hear clicking coming from the D2, as if it was trying to turn off an on, but there were no blue squares moving across the progress bar, and it continued to say 'D2 found', but I couldn't move the windows arrow to abort.
> 
> The only way I could get out was to power down the D2 by the toggle switch under the power cord, and to turn off my laptop by its power button.
> 
> 
> Fortunatly the D2 didn't brick- v1.47 is loaded and it works OK other than the on screen menu.
> 
> 
> I would like to go back to v1.33. I think I may need to 'flash erase', but I would like to have step by step instructions so that I don't brick my unit.
> 
> 
> Help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Tom



Since you have the red video board, your D2 is OK for "test" V1.47f whether or not you have the big toroidal transformer in your power supply.


It is normal in V1.47f for there to be an HDMI handshake when you move between Source lines in the Setup menu. That's because when you move between those lines it is actually changing sources and thus needs to handshake.


I think you are giving up on V1.47f too quickly. Just be patient when you switch between Source lines in the Setup menu.


However, since you started the process of doing the V1.33 re-install, I think, to be safe, you should re-install V1.47f one more time to be sure nothing got messed up by the aborted re-install of V1.33.

--Bob


----------



## RudyR1999

Assistance is needed...


I purchased a D2 several years ago and I'm still running with the original firmware. I have purchased a new TV and have decided to upgrade my D2's firmware, v1.33. Is there a place where I can purchase a USB/Serial cable that will work with my D2 and Lenovo laptop?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RudyR1999* /forum/post/18351401
> 
> 
> Assistance is needed...
> 
> 
> I purchased a D2 several years ago and I'm still running with the original firmware. I have purchased a new TV and have decided to upgrade my D2's firmware, v1.33. Is there a place where I can purchase a USB/Serial cable that will work with my D2 and Lenovo laptop?



I recommend this USB/Serial adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/Keyspan-Speed-...9200840&sr=8-1 


Plug that into a USB port on your laptop. If you don't already have one you will also need a serial cable to go between the adapter and the back of your D2. Be sure you get a "straight through" serial cable where pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9 directly. A "null modem" cable looks identical but swaps one pair of pins and will not work.


Even after all this time, V1.33 remains the "official" firmware for your D2. If your current firmware is older than V1.33, you really SHOULD upgrade to V1.33.


There is also a "test" firmware version, V1.47f, which is on Anthem's password protected download page. It ports some HDMI changes from the D2v code to the D2 and a few other bug fixes, but it DOES NOT WORK on all production runs of the D2.


If you look through the top vents of your D2 and discover that your video board (the big board at the top just under the vents) is colored red, *OR* that you do *NOT* have the big, toroidal (donut shaped) transformer in the power supply, then your D2 is good to go for V1.47f.


If your video board is colored gray or green, *AND* your power supply *DOES* include the big, toroidal transformer, then it is still possible your D2 may work with V1.47f, but there is no easy way for you to tell, and so you should probably play it safe and not attempt the install.


If you don't already have the access info for Anthem's password protected download page, and want to do the V1.47f install, send an email to Anthem tech support asking for the access info.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18351069
> 
> 
> Since you have the red video board, your D2 is OK for "test" V1.47f whether or not you have the big toroidal transformer in your power supply.
> 
> 
> It is normal in V1.47f for there to be an HDMI handshake when you move between Source lines in the Setup menu. That's because when you move between those lines it is actually changing sources and thus needs to handshake.
> 
> 
> I think you are giving up on V1.47f too quickly. Just be patient when you switch between Source lines in the Setup menu.
> 
> 
> However, since you started the process of doing the V1.33 re-install, I think, to be safe, you should re-install V1.47f one more time to be sure nothing got messed up by the aborted re-install of V1.33.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Thanks for your response. My wife will agree that patience isn't one of my virtues. I reloaded v1.47. I also uploaded my latest ARC file.


I'm not sure you understand my concern when going thru the setup menu. The handshake takes place when I'm just scanning thru the source list with the up or down button. Not when i choose a source by hitting the select button. This makes going thru the many sources to get to the 6 different sources I use a painful exercise. I would expect there to be a handshake when I actually select dvd1 and then select dvd2, since they use different video configurations. I do not think there should be a handshake when going thru the sources list using the ^ button from tv1 to tv2 to tv3 to aux, etc. I didn't have that problem with v1.33. If this is the way it is supposed to work, then Anthem needs to change it. That's a glitch.


When uploading my ARC the front panel lights were flashing on and off during the 'speaker level' upload.

That and the fact that i could not change back to v1.33 makes me think that I should 'flash erase' and start with a clean slate.


So again I will ask for 'flash erase' instructions. Please.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/18351675
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for your response. My wife will agree that patience isn't one of my virtues. I reloaded v1.47. I also uploaded my latest ARC file.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure you understand my concern when going thru the setup menu. The handshake takes place when I'm just scanning thru the source list with the up or down button. Not when i choose a source by hitting the select button. This makes going thru the many sources to get to the 6 different sources I use a painful exercise. I would expect there to be a handshake when I actually select dvd1 and then select dvd2, since they use different video configurations. I do not think there should be a handshake when going thru the sources list using the ^ button from tv1 to tv2 to tv3 to aux, etc. I didn't have that problem with v1.33. If this is the way it is supposed to work, then Anthem needs to change it. That's a glitch.
> 
> 
> When uploading my ARC the front panel lights were flashing on and off during the 'speaker level' upload.
> 
> That and the fact that i could not change back to v1.33 makes me think that I should 'flash erase' and start with a clean slate.
> 
> 
> So again I will ask for 'flash erase' instructions. Please.
> 
> 
> Tom



What you are getting when you scroll through a list of sources on any of the several Setup menu pages is, indeed, the way it is designed to work in V1.47f.


There are actually two handshakes that happen each time you move to a new line (even though you haven't pressed Select). First it handshakes to that new source to pick up the audio from that source, then it RE-handshakes to pick up the S-video which is the Setup menu itself. Presumably they had to do this because there was a problem in the way the older V1.33 code was handling things, even though it was more user friendly.


And so yes, it is a nuisance to scroll the list that way. Note that if you know you want to go up, say, 3 lines, you can just Up Arrow 3 times. You don't have to wait for the handshake to complete each time. If the handshake does not appear to have worked, try Down Arrow and then Up Arrow to force it to try again.


The flashing lights during the ARC Upload is also normal. The processor is in an unusual state while that Upload is happening.


There's no trick to Flash Erase. Just get the utility and run it. Some folks recommend running it a few times, but once should be enough so long as it finishes without complaint.


Flash Erase will leave your processor erased. You will need to install firmware as the next step. And then you will need to re-enter settings manually or from a backup file on your PC.


You can use the Settings Backup utility to backup and restore your Setup menu settings. You can use the Live Video Settings Editor utility to backup and restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings. Get the latest copies of both of these from a recent download of the ARC V2.4 install kit.


Settings Backup is trivial to run either for backup or restore.


For LVSE, make sure the processor is powered on BEFORE you starts LVSE. Then to backup all the Video Source Adjust menu settings do a Get to retrieve the settings (wait for that to finish) and a Save to write the file on your PC. To restore those settings, Open the backup file on the PC (File Menu) and then Load to send them to the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## rsinclair




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/18323262
> 
> 
> So i have lived with these HDMI issues over the years but recently they had gotten even worse... *I had switched out to comcast's latest DCX box which might have been part of the problem*?? but I thought... its a newer box so it can't be worse? Anyway, it got so, so bad that I finally got a hold of tech support and also a push from Bob and i eventually installed the latest still "test firmware" for the D2 which is the upgrade from 1.33. 1.04f or whatever it is called.
> 
> 
> I now LOVE the D2. All HDMI problems have thus far vanished. I even have the DCX unit set to output native so there is lots of handshaking but it is fast and efficeint and thus far (about 2 weeks) has been working perfectly. Gone are the blank screen and no video input messages causing a power off. Gone are the strange aspect ratios like a squeezed 4:3 image. *Gone is the need to switch inputs, power on and off*. It now works like it should... and that is very nice.



I'm a recent owner of the d2v, and am now on my second unit (first apparently had some video issues and was a bum unit).


After finally having some time to put in some extended use, I'm experiencing a problem that appears user |M|B.M.F. above (and perhaps others?) are also experiencing: when I switch between Sources, *I will occasionally lose video*. My sources include the latest Comcast/Motorola DCX3400 HD DVR (1080i output), an Xbox 360 (@ 60 fps), a PlayStation 3 Original (which I manually toggle between 60 fps for games and 24 fps for Bluray using two different Video Output Configurations), and a Wii (480p).


I'm guessing the problem occurs because of the Anthem's inability to reliably shift between resolutions (1080p, 1080i, upconverting 720p and 480p) while simultaneously shifting between refresh rates (24Hz and 60Hz).


This problem does not occur every time I switch Sources, but in about 6 hours of use, it happened 3 times, and that's 3 times more often than an expensive piece of gear should experience a problem like this. I understand the d2v has a lot more going on under the hood than a $300 receiver from Best Buy, but that's not really a good excuse. Power cycling the d2v corrects the problem, but that's not really an acceptable long-term solution.


I haven't read all of the hundreds of pages of this thread, but is this a common problem, as inferred by |M|B.M.F.'s post? Has it been addressed/corrected with the latest "test" firmware? Should I upgrade the FW?


I have also discovered to my chagrin that the d2v absolutely will not work with Comcast's Motorola DCX3400 HD DVR via an HDMI connection. I've tried two different d2v units and two different DCX3400's, and I get a green screen every few minutes, and occasionally an error message about the HDCP content protection check failing. After a lot of calls to tech support and speaking with both Comcast and Anthem, the only solution was to either use the Component Out from the d2v, or run HDMI directly to my display, and a separate digital audio cable to the Anthem. Again, very disappointing in a unit in this price bracket -- but hopefully something correctable in a firmware release?


Any insights? Bob?


Thanks,

Robert


----------



## mkaye

i've done some troubleshooting & it is the speaker - i swapped the L/R physically after playing with room treatments and the problem stayed with the speaker

i am going to open it up & make sure everything is connected

they are Studio 100v1's (not v2's as described before)


mark



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18350442
> 
> 
> The Large/Small settings are indeed ignored by ARC and replaced by Advanced settings when ARC does the UPLOAD.
> 
> 
> The interactions between reflections and direct radiation from the speakers is what causes a lot of problems and although the reflection from the side walls is important, there is also an important reflection from the wall/corner BEHIND the speaker. That's why speaker distance from the wall/corner behind them can make a big difference, and that's why, sometimes, a bass trap in the corners behind the fronts can make a big difference.
> 
> 
> Your dip at 15KHz is so consistent across the speakers that it looks suspiciously like a mic problem up there or something else we don't understand about the way you are using the mic or your environment in the room. The point is, you can fix almost all of that by raising Max EQ Frequency in the Targets window (and then doing a re-Calculation and re-Upload), but if the data is faulty up there the results might not sound right even though the charts look better.
> 
> 
> Anyway the first problem is to fix the lower frequencies for LF (repositioning LF or the bass traps), and then you can experiment with raising Max EQ Frequency and seeing if you prefer that result in your listening.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsinclair* /forum/post/18351797
> 
> 
> I'm a recent owner of the d2v, and am now on my second unit (first apparently had some video issues and was a bum unit).
> 
> 
> After finally having some time to put in some extended use, I'm experiencing a problem that appears user |M|B.M.F. above (and perhaps others?) are also experiencing: when I switch between Sources, *I will occasionally lose video*. My sources include the latest Comcast/Motorola DCX3400 HD DVR (1080i output), an Xbox 360 (@ 60 fps), a PlayStation 3 Original (which I manually toggle between 60 fps for games and 24 fps for Bluray using two different Video Output Configurations), and a Wii (480p).
> 
> 
> I'm guessing the problem occurs because of the Anthem's inability to reliably shift between resolutions (1080p, 1080i, upconverting 720p and 480p) while simultaneously shifting between refresh rates (24Hz and 60Hz).
> 
> 
> This problem does not occur every time I switch Sources, but in about 6 hours of use, it happened 3 times, and that's 3 times more often than an expensive piece of gear should experience a problem like this. I understand the d2v has a lot more going on under the hood than a $300 receiver from Best Buy, but that's not really a good excuse. Power cycling the d2v corrects the problem, but that's not really an acceptable long-term solution.
> 
> 
> I haven't read all of the hundreds of pages of this thread, but is this a common problem, as inferred by |M|B.M.F.'s post? Has it been addressed/corrected with the latest "test" firmware? Should I upgrade the FW?
> 
> 
> I have also discovered to my chagrin that the d2v absolutely will not work with Comcast's Motorola DCX3400 HD DVR via an HDMI connection. I've tried two different d2v units and two different DCX3400's, and I get a green screen every few minutes, and occasionally an error message about the HDCP content protection check failing. After a lot of calls to tech support and speaking with both Comcast and Anthem, the only solution was to either use the Component Out from the d2v, or run HDMI directly to my display, and a separate digital audio cable to the Anthem. Again, very disappointing in a unit in this price bracket -- but hopefully something correctable in a firmware release?
> 
> 
> Any insights? Bob?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Robert



The post you cited was referring to the older D2 hardware.


What firmware are you currently running on your D2v? Press Select once on the remote to see the firmware version in the display. It will be something like V2.08. The current "official" version is V2.08, available from Anthem's normal download page. The current "test" version is V2.08e, available from Anthem's password protected download page, and includes a pre-release version of the Dolby Volume firmware which you should set to OFF in each Setup > Source Setup definition to keep from confusing yourself.


The Motorola set top boxes that Comcast uses are notorious for producing HDMI problems. HDMI is an end to end protocol that's driven by the Source device (talking through your D2v to the display in this case) and there's only so much an in-between device can do if the Source HDMI code is faulty. The "test" firmware for the D2v includes some HDMI changes that help with that, but really the only thing you can do is try to minimize the retries so that the Motorola box has less chance to screw up.


Two things you should do to simplify the handshake are to set an explicit HDMI output Data format in Setup > Video Output rather than Auto. Typically you would use YCbCr 4:4:4. And in your Setup > Source definitions, turn off Auto Dig.


If you also turn off Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock for each source that too simplifies things but means you need to manually change between 1080p/60 and 1080p/24 to your display when you want to. You can select between your two Video Output configurations using the remote control shortcut (under the Mode button), or by setting up two distinct Source definitions, identical except for which Video Output configuration they use.


---------------------------------------


If firmware and settings don't lead to an easy fix then the next thing to do is temporarily set your Video Output to 1080i/60 to the display and see if the problem goes away. If so, that suggests you need to upgrade the cable between the D2v and your display. Although this is most commonly the case with long cables to projectors, it can also happen with short cables it the plugs don't happen to have precisely the right mechanical fit in the sockets. Also make sure your HDMI plugs (both ends of all input and output cables) are fully inserted straight into the sockets with nothing tugging them in any direction. You may need to support the weight of the cable for example. HDMI plugs are just friction fit and it only takes a small shift to make the connection unreliable.


Again, even if you have a high quality cable, manufacturing variations can mean your particular cable is unreliable.


The D2v sends 1080p/60 (and 1080p/24) as 36-bit video ("Deep Color") to your display, if the display says it will accept that. This puts pretty heavy demands on the quality of the HDMI cable and the plug/socket connections. If you have any intermediate connections in the HDMI chain, that too can be the source of the problem. For example if you have a projector cable running in the wall and ending in wall plates at each end, it is *VERY* common for the wall plates themselves to be the source of the problem. And if you have any HDMI switcher or splitter in your wiring that too is a common source of problems.


When you set 1080i/60 that drops the output bandwidth. If 1080i/60 works reliably but 1080p/60 does not, that's a strong indication of cable problems.


(It is also possible for an INPUT HDMI cable to be the culprit. But it is usually best to focus on the output cable.)


----------------------------------------------------


Periodically while watching any HDMI source, the Source device will re-check that copy protection is still good. That test is designed to be finicky, and a failure of that (due to marginal cables) is the most common cause of loss of video when you aren't changing sources. Again, in the case of the Comcast box, this can be due to it being unhappy with what gets returned on cable from the display, not just on the cable from the D2v to the Comcast box.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18351977
> 
> 
> i've done some troubleshooting & it is the speaker - i swapped the L/R physically after playing with room treatments and the problem stayed with the speaker
> 
> i am going to open it up & make sure everything is connected
> 
> they are Studio 100v1's (not v2's as described before)
> 
> 
> mark



Interesting! You are probably right. Clever job of diagnosing this! There could be a failure of the crossover electronics in the speaker (i.e., which part of the signal gets played by the woofer and which by the mid-range) or you could have a faulty mid-range which is incapable of producing it's contribution to the high-bass, low mid-range.

--Bob


----------



## Orup70

I have an Anthem D2v/P5 for delivery in a week or two. While waiting for the delivery I've been thinking about upgrading my speakers (currently Mirage OM-5 as fronts).


My main option is a Paradigm Signature S8/C5/ADP1 set. Unfortunately, Paradigm speakers are not a good value in Sweden - I have to pay $12,800 for a pair of Paradigm S8 costing something like $7000 in the US. This have made me considering B&W speakers instead, either the 803D or even the new 802 Diamond as fronts. But I have not enough space for a B&W center.


So my question is: how "bad" would it sound to use a B&W 802 Diamond as fronts and combine with a Paradigm Signature C5 as the center? Would I be better off running Paradigm S8 as fronts together with a C5 even though B&W 802 is (most likely) a better front speaker. How much would ARC save me?


I know it's a wery hard question to answer and also involves a lot of subjective "feelings", but have any one used mixed fronts and centers together with Anthem D2/D2v and ARC?


Any thoughts are very welcome!


/ Påhl


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC will actually do quite a lot to smooth out timbre differences designed into speakers. For example, B&W speakers are kind of known for a designed in, wide and shallow dip near around 4KHz which ARC removes if you let it correct up that high. Whether you will actually hear such a change is another issue.


I don't believe ARC will do anything to alter transient response differences in the designs.


Efficiency differences won't matter if you've got enough amp for both designs (surely the case with the P5).


Really the only way to tell whether a mixed set of speakers will produce a qualitative difference that matters to YOU as sound pans through them is to audition them.


In a previous life I mixed a B&W Center with a pair of smaller Paradigm speakers after doing just such auditioning and deciding the Paradigms were actually a better match for that particular B&W center than B&W's own speakers of the same size! Surprised the heck out of me. But you are dealing with a better class of speakers than those, and if you've got the critical ear I suspect you probably will hear some difference. Again, hearing it is not the same as being bothered by it.


For stereo content Music listening in particular, you can always set up an ARC Music configuration that excludes the Center speaker even if you have the surround speakers and sub enabled.

--Bob


----------



## mkaye

i couldn't find anything wrong with the speaker, all speakers have continuity and there were no open coils or cold solder joints on the xover

i am going to swap the xovers in the morning

there are 2 woofers in the cabinet, from a quick look at the xover it looks like 1 is low bass & the other is mid bass - i think the band i am missing would be considered mid bass


mark



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18352085
> 
> 
> Interesting! You are probably right. Clever job of diagnosing this! There could be a failure of the crossover electronics in the speaker (i.e., which part of the signal gets played by the woofer and which by the mid-range) or you could have a faulty mid-range which is incapable of producing it's contribution to the high-bass, low mid-range.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Hi All:


Has anyone managed to get the ARC microphone(with its calibration file) to work with room analysis/correction software such as room EQ wizard and others? I need to see a real-time room frequency response of my setup to help optimize speaker placement and orientation. The normal ARC method is way too slow to be practical.


Thanks,

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18353174
> 
> 
> i couldn't find anything wrong with the speaker, all speakers have continuity and there were no open coils or cold solder joints on the xover
> 
> i am going to swap the xovers in the morning
> 
> there are 2 woofers in the cabinet, from a quick look at the xover it looks like 1 is low bass & the other is mid bass - i think the band i am missing would be considered mid bass
> 
> 
> mark



Yes, that makes good sense. Before you swap the crossovers, play a mixed frequency bass test tone using Mono All on the Anthem (so the same content is going to both speakers) and put your ear up close to the mid-bass driver in both front speakers. My guess is that the mid-bass driver in the problem speaker is dead.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18353353
> 
> 
> Hi All:
> 
> 
> Has anyone managed to get the ARC microphone(with its calibration file) to work with room analysis/correction software such as room EQ wizard and others? I need to see a real-time room frequency response of my setup to help optimize speaker placement and orientation. The normal ARC method is way too slow to be practical.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



Anthem's calibration file format for the ARC mics is not public, so you won't be able to use the ARC mic for this.


I've already suggested to Nick that they add a speaker positioning feature that would give something more like real-time response, but I don't know what priority they might have on that.

--Bob


----------



## MikeCornika

Why the peoples they do not use Setup Editor? I find more easy and convenient, you do everything on computer and at the end you'll upload into D2V. I suppose for D2 shall be the same, or i'm missing somethings?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18353723
> 
> 
> Why the peoples they do not use Setup Editor? I find more easy and convenient, you do everything on computer and at the end you'll upload into D2V. I suppose for D2 shall be the same, or i'm missing somethings?



The current version of Setup editor does not work with the firmware for the original D2 or AVM 50. It is only for the D2v or AVM 50v.


There is no version of Setup Editor that works with the V1.33 or V1.47f firmware for viewing or editing settings on the D2 or AVM 50.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18353654
> 
> 
> Anthem's calibration file format for the ARC mics is not public, so you won't be able to use the ARC mic for this.
> 
> 
> I've already suggested to Nick that they add a speaker positioning feature that would give something more like real-time response, but I don't know what priority they might have on that.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob ... I had hoped for this feature to be part of ARC along with the ability to measure room response with the EQ on but it seems ARC is a low priority for them as they've had no updates or haven't announced any for a long while now.


Do you know of a professional quality mic that you can recommed?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18353954
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob ... I had hoped for this feature to be part of ARC along with the ability to measure room response with the EQ on but it seems ARC is a low priority for them as they've had no updates or haven't announced any for a long while now.
> 
> 
> Do you know of a professional quality mic that you can recommed?



Not Bob, Earthworks M30, DBX and Behringer makes good low cost ref mics.


Alvin


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18222090
> 
> 
> Benleeys - I'm assuming ARC is also crossing the mains over at 60 or higher, so I'm not sure why you would want to calculate corrections below that.



The original crossover point for my Fronts as decided by ARC was 60Hz. My Fronts are full range units, each with 400 watts powered woofers with a roll-off at 24Hz -3dB. My rationale was that the low end at these speakers would be better served by 3 subs (counting in the woofers) at different locations than channelling all the low front frequencies to the lone sub at one end of the room. As Bob advised, by not checking the "Full Range X-over" box, I am not losing anything at the subsonic end since whatever my Fronts cannot handle will be passed over to the lone sub.


And indeed, after listening for the last few weeks, I can confirm that the bass is now better defined and intense. It's worth a try, if like mine, your Fronts go low enough (with sufficient power) to benefit from this arrangement.


Incidentally, I find that while a room gain of 3.9 is great for music, a lower gain of, say 2 or 2.5, makes movie dialogue sound much clearer and distinct.


For whatever it's worth,

Ben


----------



## mkaye

i actually swapped the 2 bass drivers when i put it back together - no change!

i just pulled the xover from the other & they are different!

more caps on the working one, different coils with resistors in series

not so easy to compare...


mark



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18353631
> 
> 
> Yes, that makes good sense. Before you swap the crossovers, play a mixed frequency bass test tone using Mono All on the Anthem (so the same content is going to both speakers) and put your ear up close to the mid-bass driver in both front speakers. My guess is that the mid-bass driver in the problem speaker is dead.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## veneziana

Hello to all,

wich are (for you) the best cable for power and xlr connection?

thanks

Andrea


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsinclair* /forum/post/18351797
> 
> 
> I'm a recent owner of the d2v, and am now on my second unit (first apparently had some video issues and was a bum unit).
> 
> 
> After finally having some time to put in some extended use, I'm experiencing a problem that appears user |M|B.M.F. above (and perhaps others?) are also experiencing: when I switch between Sources, *I will occasionally lose video*. My sources include the latest Comcast/Motorola DCX3400 HD DVR (1080i output), an Xbox 360 (@ 60 fps), a PlayStation 3 Original (which I manually toggle between 60 fps for games and 24 fps for Bluray using two different Video Output Configurations), and a Wii (480p).
> 
> 
> I'm guessing the problem occurs because of the Anthem's inability to reliably shift between resolutions (1080p, 1080i, upconverting 720p and 480p) while simultaneously shifting between refresh rates (24Hz and 60Hz).
> 
> 
> This problem does not occur every time I switch Sources, but in about 6 hours of use, it happened 3 times, and that's 3 times more often than an expensive piece of gear should experience a problem like this. I understand the d2v has a lot more going on under the hood than a $300 receiver from Best Buy, but that's not really a good excuse. Power cycling the d2v corrects the problem, but that's not really an acceptable long-term solution.
> 
> 
> I haven't read all of the hundreds of pages of this thread, but is this a common problem, as inferred by |M|B.M.F.'s post? Has it been addressed/corrected with the latest "test" firmware? Should I upgrade the FW?
> 
> 
> I have also discovered to my chagrin that the d2v absolutely will not work with Comcast's Motorola DCX3400 HD DVR via an HDMI connection. I've tried two different d2v units and two different DCX3400's, and I get a green screen every few minutes, and occasionally an error message about the HDCP content protection check failing. After a lot of calls to tech support and speaking with both Comcast and Anthem, the only solution was to either use the Component Out from the d2v, or run HDMI directly to my display, and a separate digital audio cable to the Anthem. Again, very disappointing in a unit in this price bracket -- but hopefully something correctable in a firmware release?
> 
> 
> Any insights? Bob?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Robert




I too have the same problem but have notice that when I switch between Satellite dishes with my Harmony One remote I have my devices set to turn off when not in use, for example, if I am watching Direct TV then switch to Shaw Direct my Direct TV shuts down and the Shaw receiver turns on. This causes a hand shake that is twice as long, with an all purple screen flash, and sometimes the video does not come in. If I leave my devices on and switch between them the hand shake is half the time without the all purple screen. The devices are a mix of HDMI and Component, not sure if that stumps the Anthem or not, but it shouldn't. I have tried all of Bob's suggestions and still have the same problem. To reduce the occurrences I think I will have to set my devices not to turn off when switching between them. Anthem Techs take note please, thanks. PS: I am running 2.08e and am patiently waiting for a firmware fix.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18355006
> 
> 
> i actually swapped the 2 bass drivers when i put it back together - no change!
> 
> i just pulled the xover from the other & they are different!
> 
> more caps on the working one, different coils with resistors in series
> 
> not so easy to compare...
> 
> 
> mark



Time to get in touch with the manufacturer I think. It is pretty bizarre to say the least, but I suppose it is possible the problem speaker had the wrong crossover installed when it was built in the factory. Or maybe they made a change in the crossover because the older design was subject to failure like this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18355506
> 
> 
> I too have the same problem but have notice that when I switch between Satellite dishes with my Harmony One remote I have my devices set to turn off when not in use, for example, if I am watching Direct TV then switch to Shaw Direct my Direct TV shuts down and the Shaw receiver turns on. This causes a hand shake that is twice as long, with an all purple screen flash, and sometimes the video does not come in. If I leave my devices on and switch between them the hand shake is half the time without the all purple screen. The devices are a mix of HDMI and Component, not sure if that stumps the Anthem or not, but it shouldn't. I have tried all of Bob's suggestions and still have the same problem. To reduce the occurrences I think I will have to set my devices not to turn off when switching between them. Anthem Techs take note please, thanks. PS: I am running 2.08e and am patiently waiting for a firmware fix.
> 
> 
> John



Some devices simply don't handle HDMI handshaking well while they are powering up. With Source devices, that means they begin the process before they are really ready. So you get more retries. Each retry adds another roughly 2 seconds to the time and yes you will get video flashes as the box starts things over again.


There's no special problem mixing Component and HDMI Source devices. Lot's of people posting here do that.


Purple flashes usually mean a device is trying RGB data format first before realizing it's supposed to use YCbCr instead. If you can set an explicit output data format from the device (instead of Auto) you can eliminate that.


A suggestion for you: In your Harmony One configuration, increase the Delay Time after Power On is sent to each of your devices and also after a change of Input (Source) command is sent to the Anthem. To see if this is worth the effort, get the original remotes for the Anthem and each of your Sources. With one source Off and the other On, start with the powered Source selected in the Anthem. Then try manually powering on the other source and manually changing to it in the Anthem with a delay of a few seconds before you do the change. Also try the other way where you change the Anthem input (to the powered off source) then wait a few seconds and then power on that new source. If the delay (either way) makes things work better, then you should be able to alter the Harmony stuff to handle this for you automatically.


Alternatively, your delays might be TOO Long, which means some of the time it is taking, and thus the extra flashing, is simply due to doing things twice as the Harmony waits out the delays you have built in.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veneziana* /forum/post/18355210
> 
> 
> Hello to all,
> 
> wich are (for you) the best cable for power and xlr connection?
> 
> thanks
> 
> Andrea



You do NOT need anything special in the way of a power cable. Think about it. The idea that the last three feet of power cable can somehow make up for the wiring inside the walls of your house and the 3 miles of outside wire to the power station is just silly. It is the job of the power supply in the box to deal with noise in the incoming power. The only things that matter for power cable are that it is the right gauge (wire thickness) to carry the current and voltage and that it is durable enough to last.


For XLR cable, again I do not recommend you spend a lot to buy exotic cable. Perfectly reasonable quality, durable, shielded XLR cable can be had from reliable sources at quite reasonable prices. In the US I personally like cables from Blue Jeans cable and MonoPrice -- both AVS forum sponsors. (NOTE: MonoPrice is currently upgrading the security of their system to take credit card orders, so you may have to use PayPal to purchase from them right now.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18354419
> 
> 
> The original crossover point for my Fronts as decided by ARC was 60Hz. My Fronts are full range units, each with 400 watts powered woofers with a roll-off at 24Hz -3dB. My rationale was that the low end at these speakers would be better served by 3 subs (counting in the woofers) at different locations than channelling all the low front frequencies to the lone sub at one end of the room. As Bob advised, by not checking the "Full Range X-over" box, I am not losing anything at the subsonic end since whatever my Fronts cannot handle will be passed over to the lone sub.
> 
> 
> And indeed, after listening for the last few weeks, I can confirm that the bass is now better defined and intense. It's worth a try, if like mine, your Fronts go low enough (with sufficient power) to benefit from this arrangement.
> 
> 
> Incidentally, I find that while a room gain of 3.9 is great for music, a lower gain of, say 2 or 2.5, makes movie dialogue sound much clearer and distinct.
> 
> 
> For whatever it's worth,
> 
> Ben



Your Room Gain result is interesting. The usual advice is that folks use a LOWER room gain for Music than for Movies. Unlike the case with movie tracks, there's no commonality in the assumptions made by music mixers as to how much Room Gain they expect will be in the listening rooms of the folks who buy their stuff. But on the whole, most reports are that folks find a smaller Room Gain seems to match better. Try 1-1.5dB below what ARC found for your Room Gain for example. Apparently this is quite dependent on the TYPE of music you like to listen to and the studios you typically buy from.


Room Gain should not have much impact on clarity of dialog UNLESS the higher Room Gain setting was causing additional residual errors to appear in the mid-range of your Center speaker. I don't recall your charts but see if it isn't the case that the green Calculated curve appears to have a smoother shape and closer match to the black dashed Target curve for Center, particularly in the low mid-range, at the lower Room Gain setting. If so, you might achieve the same effect by backing off Max EQ Frequency (if you've previously raised it). I.e., you might be seeing signs of ARC running out of resources for all the correction you are asking it to do.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18353954
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob ... I had hoped for this feature to be part of ARC along with the ability to measure room response with the EQ on but it seems ARC is a low priority for them as they've had no updates or haven't announced any for a long while now.
> 
> 
> Do you know of a professional quality mic that you can recommed?



Sorry, I don't have a recommendation for you. I've been using the calibrated mic that came with my Velodyne DD series subwoofer to verify what ARC is doing in the bass and low mid-range (the sub itself generates sweep tones and charts the result), so I haven't really looked into other possibilities.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18355794
> 
> 
> You do NOT need anything special in the way of a power cable. Think about it. The idea that the last three feet of power cable can somehow make up for the wiring inside the walls of your house and the 3 miles of outside wire to the power station is just silly. It is the job of the power supply in the box to deal with noise in the incoming power. The only things that matter for power cable are that it is the right gauge (wire thickness) to carry the current and voltage and that it is durable enough to last.
> 
> --Bob



So are you sayin I don't need audiophile grade fuses?????


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18354419
> 
> 
> The original crossover point for my Fronts as decided by ARC was 60Hz. My Fronts are full range units, each with 400 watts powered woofers with a roll-off at 24Hz -3dB. My rationale was that the low end at these speakers would be better served by 3 subs (counting in the woofers) at different locations than channelling all the low front frequencies to the lone sub at one end of the room. As Bob advised, by not checking the "Full Range X-over" box, I am not losing anything at the subsonic end since whatever my Fronts cannot handle will be passed over to the lone sub.
> 
> 
> And indeed, after listening for the last few weeks, I can confirm that the bass is now better defined and intense. It's worth a try, if like mine, your Fronts go low enough (with sufficient power) to benefit from this arrangement.
> 
> 
> Incidentally, I find that while a room gain of 3.9 is great for music, a lower gain of, say 2 or 2.5, makes movie dialogue sound much clearer and distinct.
> 
> 
> For whatever it's worth,
> 
> Ben



Ben - I'm not sure I'm following the whole thread here but I'm very interested in your findings as we have similar systems. I agree with your rationale on spreading the bass around. What I'm missing is if you are still running Full Range or have you just lowered ARC to a lower cut-off?


I do have one big difference in that I have three subs...five if you count the powered mains woofers. I'm currently experimenting with turning the powered woofs off and crossed at 60hz to the three subs. I'm actually getting a little flatter response in my room that way. Interesting find on the room gain I always assumed the opposite, I guess I'll have to play with that now too.


And my now weekly shoutout...*Hey Anthem make sure you put more sub channels in the next generation Pre/Pro.* Ideally I'd like a dedicated sub channel on both mains and center channels. Aw shoot just give me a 9.9 system. Lets see a nice sealled 12" sub on LCR and four LFE monster subs in each corner...yea that should do it.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18355847
> 
> 
> Your Room Gain result is interesting. The usual advice is that folks use a LOWER room gain for Music than for Movies. Unlike the case with movie tracks, there's no commonality in the assumptions made by music mixers as to how much Room Gain they expect will be in the listening rooms of the folks who buy their stuff. But on the whole, most reports are that folks find a smaller Room Gain seems to match better. Try 1-1.5dB below what ARC found for your Room Gain for example. Apparently this is quite dependent on the TYPE of music you like to listen to and the studios you typically buy from.
> 
> 
> Room Gain should not have much impact on clarity of dialog UNLESS the higher Room Gain setting was causing additional residual errors to appear in the mid-range of your Center speaker. I don't recall your charts but see if it isn't the case that the green Calculated curve appears to have a smoother shape and closer match to the black dashed Target curve for Center, particularly in the low mid-range, at the lower Room Gain setting. If so, you might achieve the same effect by backing off Max EQ Frequency (if you've previously raised it). I.e., you might be seeing signs of ARC running out of resources for all the correction you are asking it to do.
> 
> --Bob



I listen to mostly classics, Bob, and have always like it with a bit of ambience, like that of concert halls. For music, ARC measurements suit me fine. As for movie, I feel that too much ambience doesn't help with dialogue clarity. But that's just my ears. Others may like it different. I retain the default Max EQ Freq at 5k Hz. Below are the charts I've loaded. I can't do much about the surrounds with their awful low ends since they're inwall mounted, a mistake I made when setting up the system. For the present, anyway.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18356505
> 
> 
> I listen to mostly classics, Bob, and have always like it with a bit of ambience, like that of concert halls. For music, ARC measurements suit me fine. As for movie, I feel that too much ambience doesn't help with dialogue clarity. But that's just my ears. Others may like it different. I retain the default Max EQ Freq at 5k Hz. Below are the charts I've loaded. I can't do much about the surrounds with their awful low ends since they're inwall mounted, a mistake I made when setting up the system. For the present, anyway.



Based on these charts I'm not sure how ARC decided upon a Room Gain of 3.9dB in the first place. The 2.5dB you are putting in now seems to be more in line with the Measured curves, except perhaps for the sub which looks a bit stronger.


You've got some rippling in the green Calculated curve for Center in the mid-range, but nothing to worry about. When you leave Movie at 3.9dB does Center look worse? Perhaps near that dip at 275Hz? That might explain your dialog results.

--Bob


----------



## mkaye

i have my SA 8300HD connected via HDMI and have it set to passthru the video resolution to my D2v (480i/720p/1080i)

i noticed last night that 480i is zoomed (distorted) - is there an easy way to fix this i.e. leave the black bars?


mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18357960
> 
> 
> i have my SA 8300HD connected via HDMI and have it set to passthru the video resolution to my D2v (480i/720p/1080i)
> 
> i noticed last night that 480i is zoomed (distorted) - is there an easy way to fix this i.e. leave the black bars?
> 
> 
> mark



Look for a setting in the 8300HD that says SD programs (480) will be stretched left to right to fill the screen. In reality that setting means the 8300HD is doing NOTHING to the video -- i.e., it is not adding pillar box bars itself.


Meanwhile in the Anthem, while viewing video from the 8300HD, press and hold the "7" key to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu.


In the Crop Input panel select Auto at the top for the input aspect ratio.


In the Scale Out panel select Pillar Box.


This should result in the Anthem producing the necessary pillar box bars when viewing SD programs and leaving things alone when viewing HD programs.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2v / AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.08h Now on Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem tech support has put D2v / AVM 50v "test" firmware V2.08h on their password protected download page. Change notes for the V2.08x series of releases now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.08h beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Added HDMI-out bit depth options in menu 1. Try 8 or 10 bit settings if you're having trouble with a long HDMI output connection that worked reliably with older equipment.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed mode preset for 2-channel input.
> 
> 
> 3. Fixed test noises in room resonance and level calibration menus.
> 
> 
> 4. Dolby Volume - fixed level calibration.
> 
> 
> 5. Certain DD-1.0 soundtracks did not work - fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08e beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Adjusted Dolby Volume reference level such that Music level is closer to Off level (Movie is louder).
> 
> 
> 2. Improved accuracy of day/time clock.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08d beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Preliminary version with Dolby Volume. The menu layout and algorithm is not final but it's close - this is just for anyone interested to get a feel for what's in store. For operating instructions open d2v_manual v2.1.pdf and type "Dolby Volume" in your pdf viewer's search box.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08a beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Updated OKI bootloader to reduce chance of a video board programming failure and support restoring non-functioning video boards when a serial strap is installed.
> 
> 
> 2. Changes to HDCP code.
> 
> 
> 3. Changes to impedance and drive strength settings for HDMI switches.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08 (20nov):
> 
> 
> 1. Improved HDMI switching aimed at certain cable/sat receivers with native output.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08 general release (5nov):
> 
> 
> 1. In a previous 2.07 beta, rear output broke with HD 5.1 input matrixed out to 7.1. This is fixed.
> 
> 
> 4 Nov 09 version: Fixes 7.1 to 5.1 downmix problem introduced in v2.07k
> 
> 
> 5 Nov 09 version: Undid a change in the previous version that reduced noise when switching audio format because it also made PCM detection unstable.
> 
> 
> There are some outstanding issues which will be addressed in v2.08 beta versions.



Note that V2.08 (20nov) is the "official" V2.08 release as found on Anthem's public download pages for the D2v and AVM 50v and as shipped in new units. It will show simply as "V2.08" in the display when you press the Select button.


From the release notes, it is clear that a number of important fixes have made it into this "test" V2.08h release. In addition, the new feature that lets you control whether video output is 24, 30, or 36 bits per pixel (8, 10, or 12 bits per component) could be very helpful for folks who have "Deep Color" displays that appear to be having problems when fed full 36-bit "Deep Color" input.


As always, be aware that "test" firmware is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18358033
> 
> *D2v / AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.08h Now on Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> Anthem tech support has put D2v / AVM 50v "test" firmware V2.08h on their password protected download page. Change notes for the V2.08x series of releases now read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that V2.08 (20nov) is the "official" V2.08 release as found on Anthem's public download pages for the D2v and AVM 50v and as shipped in new units. It will show simply as "V2.08" in the display when you press the Select button.
> 
> 
> From the release notes, it is clear that a number of important fixes have made it into this "test" V2.08h release. In addition, the new feature that lets you control whether video output is 24, 30, or 36 bits per pixel (8, 10, or 12 bits per component) could be very helpful for folks who have "Deep Color" displays that appear to be having problems when fed full 36-bit "Deep Color" input.
> 
> 
> As always, be aware that "test" firmware is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises.
> 
> --Bob




Upgrade only took 9 mins. Time to play.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Since some of the fixes affect the Setup > Level Calibration menu, I suppose it is possible the ARC 6dB Test Level problem may also be fixed. It would depend whether the error is in the firmware or the ARC app.


To test this, someone who has this problem will need to do a new ARC pass to see if their Test Level still needs to be reduced an extra 6 dB.


----------------------


Even though the Room Resonance Filter is disabled when you use ARC, the special bass test tones in there may still be useful for sub positioning and for setting volume and phase in a satellite sub attached to a main speaker. To do the latter, temporarily connect the main speaker output cable to the sub out of the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18355707
> 
> 
> Some devices simply don't handle HDMI handshaking well while they are powering up. With Source devices, that means they begin the process before they are really ready. So you get more retries. Each retry adds another roughly 2 seconds to the time and yes you will get video flashes as the box starts things over again.
> 
> 
> There's no special problem mixing Component and HDMI Source devices. Lot's of people posting here do that.
> 
> 
> Purple flashes usually mean a device is trying RGB data format first before realizing it's supposed to use YCbCr instead. If you can set an explicit output data format from the device (instead of Auto) you can eliminate that.
> 
> 
> A suggestion for you: In your Harmony One configuration, increase the Delay Time after Power On is sent to each of your devices and also after a change of Input (Source) command is sent to the Anthem. To see if this is worth the effort, get the original remotes for the Anthem and each of your Sources. With one source Off and the other On, start with the powered Source selected in the Anthem. Then try manually powering on the other source and manually changing to it in the Anthem with a delay of a few seconds before you do the change. Also try the other way where you change the Anthem input (to the powered off source) then wait a few seconds and then power on that new source. If the delay (either way) makes things work better, then you should be able to alter the Harmony stuff to handle this for you automatically.
> 
> 
> Alternatively, your delays might be TOO Long, which means some of the time it is taking, and thus the extra flashing, is simply due to doing things twice as the Harmony waits out the delays you have built in.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,


My handshakes are definitely shorter when my Anthem is already on the input and then I power up the input. I will make the appropriate changes to my Harmony.


John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18358033
> 
> *D2v / AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.08h Now on Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> Anthem tech support has put D2v / AVM 50v "test" firmware V2.08h on their password protected download page. Change notes for the V2.08x series of releases now read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that V2.08 (20nov) is the "official" V2.08 release as found on Anthem's public download pages for the D2v and AVM 50v and as shipped in new units. It will show simply as "V2.08" in the display when you press the Select button.
> 
> 
> From the release notes, it is clear that a number of important fixes have made it into this "test" V2.08h release. In addition, the new feature that lets you control whether video output is 24, 30, or 36 bits per pixel (8, 10, or 12 bits per component) could be very helpful for folks who have "Deep Color" displays that appear to be having problems when fed full 36-bit "Deep Color" input.
> 
> 
> As always, be aware that "test" firmware is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises.
> 
> --Bob




Do you think there will be any slow downs setting the "new" video output to Auto for the 8,10 and 12 bits? Or should I experiment with what is best.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18358706
> 
> 
> Do you think there will be any slow downs setting the "new" video output to Auto for the 8,10 and 12 bits? Or should I experiment with what is best.
> 
> 
> John



It SHOULDN'T make a difference, presuming the max the display says it will take actually works in the display over your cable. But I'm a big believer in using explicit HDMI settings whenever possible.


My display only takes 8 bit, but I still plan to set 8 bit explicitly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My install of V2.08h took 17 minutes. I also re-Uploaded my ARC configuration. So far the only change I've made is to set explicit 8-bit video output.


At first blush, the video looks like it might actually be improved -- particularly with regard to 480i Component SD input from my Comcast box.


I haven't looked at any charts yet, so this may be bogus.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My first reaction is that Dolby Volume = Music with Dolby Volume calibration Level at 0dB, Leveling at 9, and Half Mode ON seems to be working a lot better for Comcast TV in "test" V2.08h.


Note that as best we know now, Dolby Volume Movie should ONLY be used for movies -- my guess would be for multi-channel movie tracks. Use Dolby Volume Music for all other content where you want to use Dolby Volume.


--------------------------------------


The bug still exists that overlay Source definitions can not access Dolby Volume Music. I.e., if TV2 is set to Same As TV1 then you can only get Dolby Volume OFF or Dolby Volume Movie via the remote control shortcut ("0" button and then Up/Down Arrows) for TV2, even if TV1 was set to Dolby Volume Music before switching to TV2.


The workaround, of course, is to put in explicit values for TV2 instead of making it Same As anything.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18358662
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> My handshakes are definitely shorter when my Anthem is already on the input and then I power up the input. I will make the appropriate changes to my Harmony.
> 
> 
> John



Unfortunately I cannot find a way to put a delay in the Activities when powering up alternate satellites so my handshakes are still lengthy, unless I do it manually, but that is not an option. Off to the Logitech Forum to see if I am missing anything.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18359274
> 
> 
> My first reaction is that Dolby Volume = Music with Dolby Volume calibration Level at 0dB, Leveling at 9, and Half Mode ON seems to be working a lot better for Comcast TV in "test" V2.08h.
> 
> 
> Note that as best we know now, Dolby Volume Movie should ONLY be used for movies -- my guess would be for multi-channel movie tracks. Use Dolby Volume Music for all other content where you want to use Dolby Volume.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The bug still exists that overlay Source definitions can not access Dolby Volume Music. I.e., if TV2 is set to Same As TV1 then you can only get Dolby Volume OFF or Dolby Volume Movie via the remote control shortcut ("0" button and then Up/Down Arrows) for TV2, even if TV1 was set to Dolby Volume Music before switching to TV2.
> 
> 
> The workaround, of course, is to put in explicit values for TV2 instead of making it Same As anything.
> 
> --Bob




So what do you think, are you going to run with Dolby Volume on now or do you need more time to listen?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18359441
> 
> 
> So what do you think, are you going to run with Dolby Volume on now or do you need more time to listen?



I'm leaving my Comcast setup on Dolby Volume Music for now to see how well it works. That's the main use I have for it anyway.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18359428
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I cannot find a way to put a delay in the Activities when powering up alternate satellites so my handshakes are still lengthy, unless I do it manually, but that is not an option. Off to the Logitech Forum to see if I am missing anything.



Put the delay on the Source changes for the Anthem.


Then if the next device is powering on BEFORE the source change (and delay), turn off the option in the Harmony to power on that new source automatically when entering that activity and add the power on command yourself at the end of the actions for going into that activity. It helps if you have discrete on/off commands for the device.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18359573
> 
> 
> Put the delay on the Source changes for the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Then if the next device is powering on BEFORE the source change (and delay), turn off the option in the Harmony to power on that new source automatically when entering that activity and add the power on command yourself at the end of the actions for going into that activity. It helps if you have discrete on/off commands for the device.
> 
> --Bob



I have been informed that the type of delay that I request can only be done by Logitech support, I have sent off an e-mail and I'll see what they can do. By "adding a power on command myself at the end of the actions" Do you mean pressing the power on for the satellite dish after the activity is complete?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18359654
> 
> 
> I have been informed that the type of delay that I request can only be done by Logitech support, I have sent off an e-mail and I'll see what they can do. By "adding a power on command myself at the end of the actions" Do you mean pressing the power on for the satellite dish after the activity is complete?



No. You can add any commands you want at the end of the enter activity list and at the beginning of the leave activity list.


If the power on is happening before the source change, turn off that option and add it to the list at the end of the enter activity commands yourself.


When viewing the activity settings, select the option that says you want to add more control.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18359708
> 
> 
> No. You can add any commands you want at the end of the enter activity list and at the beginning of the leave activity list.
> 
> 
> If the power on is happening before the source change, turn off that option and add it to the list at the end of the enter activity commands yourself.
> 
> 
> When viewing the activity settings, select the option that says you want to add more control.
> 
> --Bob



I'll check it out, thanks and if there is ever anything I can help you with let me know,










One more thing, when I was updating the firmware I noticed that when I was back in Factory Default settings I hit the menu button and the menu came up really quick without the screen flashing several times. With my saved settings back I have always had a good 10 second delay getting the menu to appear, could this be because the Factory settings are 480p and it is reaching my display easier? I did not notice any improvement setting the output to 1080i instead of 1080p but maybe if it's 480p it's telling me my 50' HDMI cable may need to be replaced although it is a good Monster cable at 500.00


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's because you had no source you were coming from. Like I've said, there are two handshakess that have to happen when you go to setup from an active source.


But really, it's hard go get worked up about how long it takes to get into Setup.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18360157
> 
> 
> It's because you had no source you were coming from. Like I've said, there are two handshakess that have to happen when you go to setup from an active source.
> 
> 
> But really, it's hard go get worked up about how long it takes to get into Setup.
> 
> --Bob



Guess I have no patients, any 10 second handshake gets me worked up.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I haven't tried re-doing my ARC setup, but it appears that Dolby Volume works better if I undo the 6dB reduction I had to put into Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level to get the ARC solution's basic volume level to come out at the desired 75dB.


That could mean the 6dB problem is fixed, or that it still exists but you only have to lower Test Level while doing the ARC setup, then you can undo that change after doing the ARC Upload.


Who knows? We need more people reporting on possibilities here.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18360212
> 
> 
> Guess I have no patients, any 10 second handshake gets me worked up.



It's a time to relax. Poor some wine. Enjoy the flashing lights....










--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18354008
> 
> 
> Not Bob, Earthworks M30, DBX and Behringer makes good low cost ref mics.
> 
> 
> Alvin





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18355870
> 
> 
> Sorry, I don't have a recommendation for you. I've been using the calibrated mic that came with my Velodyne DD series subwoofer to verify what ARC is doing in the bass and low mid-range (the sub itself generates sweep tones and charts the result), so I haven't really looked into other possibilities.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Alvin & Bob ....hope they make these professional mics with USB connections.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18357900
> 
> 
> Based on these charts I'm not sure how ARC decided upon a Room Gain of 3.9dB in the first place. The 2.5dB you are putting in now seems to be more in line with the Measured curves, except perhaps for the sub which looks a bit stronger.



Good question, Bob. As measured, the Gain read 3.945749 (Force checked). When Force is unchecked, the Gain dropped to 3.736867 automatically. After listening for a while I forced it down to 2.5 which, to my ears, sounded clearer. Didn't want to try lower as thought the music content might then sound too sterile.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18357900
> 
> 
> You've got some rippling in the green Calculated curve for Center in the mid-range, but nothing to worry about. When you leave Movie at 3.9dB does Center look worse? Perhaps near that dip at 275Hz? That might explain your dialog results.
> 
> --Bob



Slightly more rippling in the lower frequencies, as you can see from the chart.


Ben


----------



## mkaye

new user D2v w/2.08

i am losing audio when switching between STB & Network Media Tank (both HDMI)

time to get latest beta software??


mark


----------



## yacht422

walt here. d2 and arc user.

are there any on line who have insights regarding the paradigm PBK-1 for sub equalization, vs: the audyssey product for the same purpose?

PBK works directly with arc, but the adu - - is an outboard unit, as i understand it, and is claimed to do a "better" job.

Eh?

thx

walt


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/18363186
> 
> 
> walt here. d2 and arc user.
> 
> are there any on line who have insights regarding the paradigm PBK-1 for sub equalization, vs: the audyssey product for the same purpose?
> 
> PBK works directly with arc, but the adu - - is an outboard unit, as i understand it, and is claimed to do a "better" job.
> 
> Eh?
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



Are you talking about audessey for subs? I haven't heard of this. The PBK I have used and it smoothes out bass response as well as ARC since it is ARC for paradigm's subs. I may be biased







but I would go with PBK for the above reason.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18361016
> 
> 
> Slightly more rippling in the lower frequencies, as you can see from the chart.
> 
> 
> Ben



The 2.5 version looks better, but the residual errors in the 3.9 version are not large. The fact that it is a little under corrected through the dip near 200Hz is the one thing that catches my eye. Because the ripples in the 3.9 version span a large range of frequencies, there is some room for doubt, but I would not expect these small residual errors would be audible in dialog. Anyway, the 2.5 version definitely looks better, and if it also sounds better, then that's clearly the one to go with.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18361773
> 
> 
> new user D2v w/2.08
> 
> i am losing audio when switching between STB & Network Media Tank (both HDMI)
> 
> time to get latest beta software??
> 
> 
> mark



It could help. Anthem has been tweaking the algorithm they use to reject noise in digital audio input. They've also been tweaking the HDMI parameters.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18363397
> 
> 
> The 2.5 version looks better, but the residual errors in the 3.9 version are not large. The fact that it is a little under corrected through the dip near 200Hz is the one thing that catches my eye. Because the ripples in the 3.9 version span a large range of frequencies, there is some room for doubt, but I would not expect these small residual errors would be audible in dialog. Anyway, the 2.5 version definitely looks better, and if it also sounds better, then that's clearly the one to go with.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. Actually, after your earlier comments about most people prefering the higher gain for movies, I was beginning to doubt my pair of aging ears!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18363479
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob. Actually, after your earlier comments about most people prefering the higher gain for movies, I was beginning to doubt my pair of aging ears!



I've got no problem with your reducing Room Gain for Movies. To my eyes the 2.5 actually seems to be a better fit for the red Measured curves.


What surprises me is that you still prefer the higher 3.9 for your Music configuration.

--Bob


----------



## daren_p

Hey guys, not sure if this would be the right place or if I should start another thread but I had a question on my D1 & also my MCA 50. What I'm wondering is what everyone's plugging theirs into? The manual (& I contacted Anthem) said to not connect it via a power conditioner? Anthem said connect it direct to the wall or a basic surge only powerbar. I'm currently using just a Monster HTS1000 (believe thats the model) powerbar & was looking into upgrading to a better unit but don't know what I should be looking for now. Most of the surge only power bars I've come accross look to be pretty basic (ie small ~18awg cord & I'm sure built the same internally) & I think would hurt performance. But most of the "better" power centers have some sort of filtering, which they said specifically to not use?


I'm worried about surges &/or spikes if I connect it directly to the wall & this also seems like a "downgrade" vs a conditioner, unless these untis already have all the filtering required built in?


I've skimmed through a bunch of this thread but if the info's already here, its like finding a needle in a hay stack (& I couldn't figure out how to search terms in a specific thread?)


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18363377
> 
> 
> Are you talking about audessey for subs? I haven't heard of this. The PBK I have used and it smoothes out bass response as well as ARC since it is ARC for paradigm's subs. I may be biased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I would go with PBK for the above reason.
> 
> John



john: thz for the response.

yes, the pbk is for sub equalization, and it competes with the audyssey unit.

what i am looking for is(are) people that might have experience with both and can make a comparison.

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daren_p* /forum/post/18364045
> 
> 
> Hey guys, not sure if this would be the right place or if I should start another thread but I had a question on my D1 & also my MCA 50. What I'm wondering is what everyone's plugging theirs into? The manual (& I contacted Anthem) said to not connect it via a power conditioner? Anthem said connect it direct to the wall or a basic surge only powerbar. I'm currently using just a Monster HTS1000 (believe thats the model) powerbar & was looking into upgrading to a better unit but don't know what I should be looking for now. Most of the surge only power bars I've come accross look to be pretty basic (ie small ~18awg cord & I'm sure built the same internally) & I think would hurt performance. But most of the "better" power centers have some sort of filtering, which they said specifically to not use?
> 
> 
> I'm worried about surges &/or spikes if I connect it directly to the wall & this also seems like a "downgrade" vs a conditioner, unless these untis already have all the filtering required built in?
> 
> 
> I've skimmed through a bunch of this thread but if the info's already here, its like finding a needle in a hay stack (& I couldn't figure out how to search terms in a specific thread?)



The problem with filters is that they frequently can't deliver the power draw the Anthem wants. Really the D1 has a sufficiently good power supply that an additional external power filter/conditioner is not needed.


With my D2v, I'm using an APC battery backup typically sold for use with computers. It is also a surge protector, but not a filter or power conditioner. The advantage of this is that the battery backup lets the D2v ride out any brief power dropouts without it having to reboot. And these APC boxes for designed for multiple attached devices and can handle the power draw without problem (since they are not filtering).


Be aware that surge protectors don't last forever. So when the surge protector eventually shows its trouble light meaning the surge protection is no longer good enough, believe it and replace it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I can confirm that the special bass test tones in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Room Resonance Filter, and the normal test tones in Setup > Level Calibration are both working.


I've backed out the additional 6dB drop of Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level that I used when I did my last ARC setup back in November. That is, I've restored Test Level to the -2dB that gave me 75dB SPL from the test tone rather than the -8dB I needed to use back then to get a 75dB solution from ARC.


With Test Level back to "normal", and the Dolby Volume Calibration line left at the default 0dB, I get 75dB SPL from all of the test lines in Level Calibration.


Furthermore, when I play the Speaker Level test from the AIX disc, I find that a Main Volume setting of between -12dB and -10dB does indeed give me 75dB SPL which suggests my old ARC solution is in fact yielding 75dB SPL now even with Test Level restored to -2dB. NOTE FOR NEWBIES: Whatever SPL level you set in the Level Calibration menu is supposed to correspond to what will happen whenever you play "reference" level audio source content while the Main Volume is set to -10dB. The same is true for the basic volume level of your ARC solution as shown on its charts. That is the volume level of the flat part of the Target curves in the mid-range to the right of the crossover frequencies should correspond to what a volume setting of -10dB will get you whenever you ever play "reference" level audio passages from any source. Note that PEAK levels in audio content can be quite a bit louder.


Finally, when I was testing Dolby Volume Music last night with Comcast I found that the results were better if I restored Test Level to its normal -2dB compared the -8dB I had in there from the last ARC run. I could actually hear the improvement WHILE I was making that adjustment as the Comcast audio was playing even while I was in Setup doing this.


Now, I still don't understand the interaction between the Dolby Volume calibration level and Test Level. But evidently if the DV calibration wants to be at 75dB SPL, and Test Level of -2dB gives me that on the normal volume trim lines, then the default 0dB DV calibration was probably being adversely affected by the -8dB Test Level I had in there from before.


The final check would be, of course, to do another ARC Measurement and see if the "normal" -2dB Test Level now yields a 75dB ARC solution, but I don't have time to do that right now.


I've found no downside or problems resulting from restoring Test Level back to -2dB playing any sources.


-------------------------------------------------


Dolby Volume Music definitely seems to be working better with Comcast audio in "test" V2.08h. I've still got it at the default 9 for leveling and with Half Mode at the default ON setting. It's good enough that I can leave DV Music on all the time for my Comcast viewing, whereas in the last firmware it was too annoying to do that.


Apparently the way you need to use this is to LOWER main volume below where you would normally set it -- to a level that works well with loud program content. Then DV boosts other content to match. The leveling is not total -- i.e., you'll still notice the difference between soft programs and loud programs. But there are some channels that are known to really over modulate their audio -- CURRENT for example -- and with DV Music engaged I can switch in and out of such channels without having to dive for the volume control as I normally would have to do.


I've only tried DV Movie briefly so far. As before it appears to be more aggressive at boosting bass. I suppose I'll have to find some time to try it with movies, but for now I'm just using DV Music and I'm ONLY using that with Comcast TV.


----------------------------------------


The bug still exists where HDMI Bitstream of the DTS-HD MA 7.1 channel from the feature on "Hairspray" Blu-Ray gets seen by the D2v as only 5.1 DTS-HD MA in my 5.1 speaker setup. The New Line logo that comes up prior to Top Menu on that disc also has a 7.1 DTS-HD MA track and that gets seen correctly as 7.1 by the D2v. The feature track on this disc is one of those tracks that uses the oddball "alternate speaker presentation" so this is likely where this problem is coming from. What's probably happening is that the decoder is down-mixing the 7.1 track to 5.1 as part of the decoding (since I only have 5.1 speakers) but then misleadingly presenting that as 5.1 input instead of 7.1 input as it should.


So far I've not seen any instances of Mode Presets not being properly applied for 2.0 input, so that bug may indeed be fixed as stated in the Change Notes.


I still get dropouts during the LF speaker portion of the DD5.1 channel ID test from the Avia Pro Audio Tests SD-DVD. NOTE this ONLY happens while using HDMI LPCM input. HDMI Bitstream input has no such problem, which means the problem is not in the content on the test disc. On the other hand, the same test from the AIX Blu-Ray calibration disc shows no such problem with HDMI LPCM input. What's likely going on with the Avia Pro disc is that the digital audio noise rejection algorithm is still set to be a bit too aggressive and the test tone from the Avia disc is getting caught by that. What I don't know is why it only happens with the LF channel.


Still testing other stuff.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/18364272
> 
> 
> john: thz for the response.
> 
> yes, the pbk is for sub equalization, and it competes with the audyssey unit.
> 
> what i am looking for is(are) people that might have experience with both and can make a comparison.
> 
> walt



Walt,

I have listened to several Audessey setups with the same speakers and rooms that are similar to mine. To say the least I have been underwhelmed by the sound. I can't say that about ARC and in fact, after hearing what ARC can do I have become more critical in my listening, ie. spoiled. PBK uses the same algorithms and filters as ARC. Not surprising since Paradigm is the parent company of Anthem.

John


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18365059
> 
> 
> Walt,
> 
> I have listened to several Audessey setups with the same speakers and rooms that are similar to mine. To say the least I have been underwhelmed by the sound. I can't say that about ARC and in fact, after hearing what ARC can do I have become more critical in my listening, ie. spoiled. PBK uses the same algorithms and filters as ARC. Not surprising since Paradigm is the parent company of Anthem.
> 
> John



john, again, my thanks.

looks like a clean sweep for paradigm.

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Did some critical listening today with stereo music and my Music configuration as well as multi-channel music and my Movie configuration. No Dolby Volume of course.


No problems. Everything sounded as it should with my old ARC solution and V2.08h.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*How to Lose the Video Source Adjust Menu! (A Bug)*


There have been recurring reports here from folks who got into a state where they could no longer get the Video Source Adjust menu to appear on screen, and that they then had to power cycle to cure this. But nobody was able to report just what they did to make this happen.


Well I've just stumbled across one VERY easy way to make this happen.


Press and hold the "7" button until the Video Source Adjust menu comes on screen. *WHILE* it is showing on screen, change the input to a different Source. As part of the change the Video Source Adjust menu will vanish from the screen.


And at this point you can't get it back on screen again (for ANY Source). Once in this state, I've found no way to get the Video Source Adjust menu to appear other than to power cycle the D2v.


Now I'm doing this with "test" V2.08h firmware, but my guess is this problem has been in the firmware for quite some time.


The workaround, of course, is to use the Back button to exit the Video Source Adjust menu before you change to a different Source.


Anthem has been notified.


[ETA: This is an excellent example of a bug that only gets found when you are tired. Normally, I would always exit out of Video Source Adjust before thinking of changing Sources -- but it was getting late! The Moral being, if something weird happens while you are tired, don't ignore it. Wake up and take it seriously.







]

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Incorrect audio Info display in Video Source Adjust*


Nick at Anthem tells me that the problem which has been reported regarding incorrect audio input status in the Video Source Adjust > Info panel is due to the fact that the Video Source Adjust displays are created by the video processor itself, and that it can only get info from the portion of the system it deals with.


Which means that particular audio status display will only be correct if you are using HDMI audio!


It is unlikely this will get changed, and since it duplicates the Select button's audio status info, the version in the Video Source Adjust menu will likely be removed at some point down the road. But it is not a priority.


The workaround is to press Select multiple times instead to get your audio input and output information.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18363504
> 
> 
> I've got no problem with your reducing Room Gain for Movies. To my eyes the 2.5 actually seems to be a better fit for the red Measured curves.
> 
> 
> What surprises me is that you still prefer the higher 3.9 for your Music configuration.
> 
> --Bob



I prefer a bit more ambience for music, especially orchestral, for the concert hall effect. There is no central dialogue to strain my ears. So the higher gain suits me fine.

Ben


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/18363186
> 
> 
> walt here. d2 and arc user.
> 
> are there any on line who have insights regarding the paradigm PBK-1 for sub equalization, vs: the audyssey product for the same purpose?
> 
> PBK works directly with arc, but the adu - - is an outboard unit, as i understand it, and is claimed to do a "better" job.
> 
> Eh?
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



I use the SVS AS-EQ1 (Audyssey) to handle my two subs and it does a great job. I run it first then run ARC. Using the same mic positions for both systems, ARC has a whole lot less to do for my subs and can use more resources for my other speakers.


----------



## MikeCornika

Bob,


A stupid question, what is the warranty for D2V?

On the Anthem site is marked:

CANADA & USA

The warranty period on Anthem products is five (5) years for power amplifiers and integrated amplifiers, three (3) years for audio preamplifiers and audio processing, two (2) years for video equipment and video processing,

I'm not sure in which category we are.

Thanks.

P.S. Regarding the operating manual, I think the Anthem must use your service for their manual writing. Your support is far better. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18368398
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> A stupid question, what is the warranty for D2V?
> 
> On the Anthem site is marked:
> 
> CANADA & USA
> 
> The warranty period on Anthem products is five (5) years for power amplifiers and integrated amplifiers, three (3) years for audio preamplifiers and audio processing, two (2) years for video equipment and video processing,
> 
> I'm not sure in which category we are.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> P.S. Regarding the operating manual, I think the Anthem must use your service for their manual writing. Your support is far better. Thanks again.



The D2v warranty for Canada and the US is a little complicated because different parts of the product are covered for different periods. To get the details, download the user Manual from their web site. The warranty is at the back of the Manual:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...al/D2v_OM.html 


In brief, the D2v warranty for Canada and the US covers the remote controls for 1 year, the video board for 2 years, and all other components in the product for 3 years. It is not transferrable if you buy a used unit unless you buy the used unit from an authorized Anthem dealer. If you buy demo equipment from an Anthem dealer, be aware that the clock started on the warranty when the dealer bought it for demo use (so factor that into the price you are willing to pay).


[Outside of Canada and the US the warranty terms are set by Anthem's distributors due to local laws covering warranties. So get the distributor contact info from Anthem and ask the distributor for a copy of the warranty.]


---------------------------------------


Nick at Anthem writes the Manual -- has done for some time -- and does an excellent job in my opinion. It is one of the very few manuals I've found which looks like it has been written by folks who actually answer real questions from real customers. Keep in mind that he has constraints on what he can put in there -- mainly overall size. This thread is nearly a thousand pages long. If Nick tried to cover all that in the Manual it would be the size of the New York telephone directory.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

On the issue of loss of the Video Source Adjust menu, Nick at Anthem replied that they know of another cause of this: If the menu times out on its own (5 minutes) you can't get it back without a power cycle.


Both problems are now on the list.

--Bob


----------



## JimmyTango

looking for some tips. my right front channel is in a horrible corner of a horrible room. i am having issues getting ARC to level out the right channel. attached are two pictures of the latest stereo measurements(this one including the sub) and the ARC targets(what it decided on), and of my horrible room/right corner.


Looking for placement help for that front right, and for any tips on running ARC.


Yes, i know, the room can not be changed, or else I would have carpet and room treatments. I am bound to this room for the next few months and want the best of it.


----------



## davoe

I would toe-in the front speakers about 1/3 the way toward the listener and re-ARC. Might solve the problem and add soundstage.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18368018
> 
> *How to Lose the Video Source Adjust Menu! (A Bug)*
> 
> 
> There have been recurring reports here from folks who got into a state where they could no longer get the Video Source Adjust menu to appear on screen, and that they then had to power cycle to cure this. But nobody was able to report just what they did to make this happen.
> 
> 
> Well I've just stumbled across one VERY easy way to make this happen.
> 
> 
> Press and hold the "7" button until the Video Source Adjust menu comes on screen. *WHILE* it is showing on screen, change the input to a different Source. As part of the change the Video Source Adjust menu will vanish from the screen.
> 
> 
> And at this point you can't get it back on screen again (for ANY Source). Once in this state, I've found no way to get the Video Source Adjust menu to appear other than to power cycle the D2v.
> 
> 
> Now I'm doing this with "test" V2.08h firmware, but my guess is this problem has been in the firmware for quite some time.
> 
> 
> The workaround, of course, is to use the Back button to exit the Video Source Adjust menu before you change to a different Source.
> 
> 
> Anthem has been notified.
> 
> 
> [ETA: This is an excellent example of a bug that only gets found when you are tired. Normally, I would always exit out of Video Source Adjust before thinking of changing Sources -- but it was getting late! The Moral being, if something weird happens while you are tired, don't ignore it. Wake up and take it seriously.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I tried the video source adjust menu as you suggested and I had no problem getting it back after the source was changed, I just held the 7 button and it came back up. I have 2.08h installed.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimmyTango* /forum/post/18370370
> 
> 
> looking for some tips. my right front channel is in a horrible corner of a horrible room. i am having issues getting ARC to level out the right channel. attached are two pictures of the latest stereo measurements(this one including the sub) and the ARC targets(what it decided on), and of my horrible room/right corner.
> 
> 
> Looking for placement help for that front right, and for any tips on running ARC.
> 
> 
> Yes, i know, the room can not be changed, or else I would have carpet and room treatments. I am bound to this room for the next few months and want the best of it.



Can you move RF another foot or so out from the wall behind it? That will help minimize the difference between the wall behind on one side and the open door behind on the other. Also, toe-in RF as suggested above. That too will help minimize the door.


Also play some stereo content with low-mid range and high bass. Select Mono All audio mode so each speaker gets the same stuff. Then put your ear up close to the bass and mid-range drivers in RF and also in LF (for comparison) and make sure all the drivers in RF are firing. If you have any doubt, swap LF and RF and re-Measure. If the problem moves with the speaker then the speaker needs service.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18370787
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I tried the video source adjust menu as you suggested and I had no problem getting it back after the source was changed, I just held the 7 button and it came back up. I have 2.08h installed.
> 
> John



Troublemaker!










Fails for me. It may matter that I was using Component video input sources.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU* /forum/post/18368244
> 
> 
> I use the SVS AS-EQ1 (Audyssey) to handle my two subs and it does a great job. I run it first then run ARC. Using the same mic positions for both systems, ARC has a whole lot less to do for my subs and can use more resources for my other speakers.



whoops!! there goes the clean sweep for paradigm.


----------



## MikeCornika

Quote:

Nick at Anthem writes the Manual -- has done for some time -- and does an excellent job in my opinion. It is one of the very few manuals I've found which looks like it has been written by folks who actually answer real questions from real customers. Keep in mind that he has constraints on what he can put in there -- mainly overall size. This thread is nearly a thousand pages long. If Nick tried to cover all that in the Manual it would be the size of the New York telephone directory.

--Bob


The actual manual for D2V is not at the same level like the equipment, is more mid level. For a king we like to have at least a queen.[/color]

A couple of points:

- trigger section - somewhere is write we can use a source to trigger the amp for stereo or 2.1 solution. In my case I use two amps, one for the fronts and the other for center and surrounds. When I want to listen to CD (stereo with sub) will be nice to power only my CD player and the front amp. It write in the manual we can do this but how? Sure if I go back on the forum maybe I'll find the answer - thanks to Mr. Pariseau;

-mode presets - what we can do for beatstreamed high resolution audio like DTS-HD and DolbyTrueHD (HDMI connection) to pass through - for example a BD concert;

- save/load settings - suppose I have done a initial setup, I save it in user settings, after I done a ARC solution, I upload and again I save it in the same place (I suppose the second save is added to the first one), after this I change something on the video side, or on the source side, and I save it again, what happen? I suppose the third save shall keep my ARC solution unchanged. If I remember you have told me the ARC is saved into a hidden memory, something different, a memory chip on one board I suppose, or I have misunderstood.

- arc-1 chapter (3.15) - this chapter is missing the initial setup description or requirement like test level adjustment, subwoofer setup, how to interpret the diagrams, how to work with speakers trims, crossovers, room gain, EQ, etc.

- dolby volume - forget about, I have to scroll down in the forum thread or do a google to see what that means, but is already available (2.08h);

- AnthemLogic - is only to enhance stereo listening or can be used for multi channel?

- on the video side, you have explain to me very very well how I shall start, it supposed to be done by Anthem.

What happened if you was not available or so gentle.

I hope Nick or somebody else from Anthem read this message, is not to blame Anthem, but for this kind of equipment , one of the best, top of the top, it deserve a better manual.

Thanks.

Cornel.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/18372555
> 
> 
> whoops!! there goes the clean sweep for paradigm.



I am sure the PBK and the SVSeq1 are great products that takes some of the load off ARC. In my case I run ARC first and then look at the subs graph, I then use my Biamp 34band parametric eq(use maybe 5 filters out of 34) to tame the peaks and maybe just add a little boost(no more than 3 dB) to the valleys. I then re-run ARC and ends up with a decent flat subwoofer curve.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/18372555
> 
> 
> whoops!! there goes the clean sweep for paradigm.



You can do the same with pbk, ie. let it run first and then ARC. Check the reviews for ARC compared to those for Audyssey and see which one the raves are directed at. I don't write the reviews but any time I read one and there are plenty, ARC is described as amazing. Can't say the same for Audyssey. Just my two cents.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18373096
> 
> 
> I am sure the PBK and the SVSeq1 are great products that takes some of the load off ARC. In my case I run ARC first and then look at the subs graph, I then use my Biamp 34band parametric eq(use maybe 5 filters out of 34) to tame the peaks and maybe just add a little boost(no more than 3 dB) to the valleys. I then re-run ARC and ends up with a decent flat subwoofer curve.



Nick's advice is to run the subs EQ first and then run ARC or Audyssey if using a PBK sub, thus reducing the number of EQ passes.

John


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18373257
> 
> 
> Nick's advice is to run the subs EQ first and then run ARC or Audyssey if using a PBK sub, thus reducing the number of EQ passes.
> 
> John



I am sorry, I forgot to mention I have 2 paradigm servo 15v2 not the subs that can use the PBK. In my case I can see the actual run with ARC first and fine tune with the parametric eq in manual mode and the re-run ARC to effect changes.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18373337
> 
> 
> I am sorry, I forgot to mention I have 2 paradigm servo 15v2 not the subs that can use the PBK. In my case I can see the actual run with ARC first and fine tune with the parametric eq in manual mode and the re-run ARC to effect changes.



Same sub as mine. Can't imagine what two would do










John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

MikeCormika,

You'll figure it out!










The "test" firmware that includes Dolby Volume also comes with a draft Manual that includes the Dolby Volume settings.


The User and Installer settings are just two memories to save or restore the Setup and Video Source Adjust menu settings. Saving overwrites whatever was in there before. Reloading moves the entire set of saved settings to the menus. Nothing complicated. No adding of partial changes with each save. What could be simpler?


ARC's Room Correction parameters are held in a hidden memory you can't see or save. If you ever need to restore it just re-Upload the ARC file.


As for the rest, this is a tweaking thread. The Manual tells you what can be set. We here discuss what you can DO with what you can set.


By the way, I use the Manual for reference almost every day. I know the reference answers are in there because I'm almost always sending people to specific Manual sections for details.










--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18373096
> 
> 
> I am sure the PBK and the SVSeq1 are great products that takes some of the load off ARC. In my case I run ARC first and then look at the subs graph, I then use my Biamp 34band parametric eq(use maybe 5 filters out of 34) to tame the peaks and maybe just add a little boost(no more than 3 dB) to the valleys. I then re-run ARC and ends up with a decent flat subwoofer curve.



As long as you are doing that based on the red Measured curves from the first ARC pass that's fine. You can use what ARC decided to do based on the green Calculated curves as secondary guidance, but what you want to do with your separate sub EQ is to help tame the Measured response NOT what's left over after ARC correction. Otherwise you are going to get a kind of feedback in your analysis.

--Bob


----------



## gonzalc3

Bob,


Below the dolby volume setting there is something called half mode.. What does it do?

If you set the dolby volume to off, do you have to turn it off as well?

Also, with firmware 2.08e, does the volume levels changed?


Thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Half Mode ON, the name is mandated by Dolby, means the frequency related volume boosts don't get applied if the algorithm believes the combo of content level and main volume setting is loud enough that you should be able to hear all that stuff anyway. It is ON by default, and apparently the strong recommendation is that you leave it on. When DV is OFF, Half Mode does nothing.


I don't understand your question about V2.08e. The current test version is V2.08h.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18373647
> 
> 
> MikeCormika,
> 
> You'll figure it out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The "test" firmware that includes Dolby Volume also comes with a draft Manual that includes the Dolby Volume settings.
> 
> 
> The User and Installer settings are just two memories to save or restore the Setup and Video Source Adjust menu settings. Saving overwrites whatever was in there before. Reloading moves the entire set of saved settings to the menus. Nothing complicated. No adding of partial changes with each save. What could be simpler?
> 
> 
> ARC's Room Correction parameters are held in a hidden memory you can't see or save. If you ever need to restore it just re-Upload the ARC file.
> 
> 
> As for the rest, this is a tweaking thread. The Manual tells you what can be set. We here discuss what you can DO with what you can set.
> 
> 
> By the way, I use the Manual for reference almost every day. I know the reference answers are in there because I'm almost always sending people to specific Manual sections for details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Yes Bob, only the RED curve, tweaking the curve manually and making another ARC run after manual eq adjustment results in a relativelly flat response fron 20 to 100 hz.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Had another case of loss of audio when Dolby Volume is turned on. So this bug still exists in "test" V2.08h.


After watching a Blu-Ray disc (Dolby Volume OFF -- HDMI audio), I went back to my Comcast Source (Dolby Volume Music -- Optical audio) and found no audio. The Select displays show that DV has decided to peg the volume all the way to the negative side.


The characteristic of this bug is that DV Movie and DV Music produce no audio, but DV OFF plays audio just fine if you cycle to that, and the Select display with DV on shows the volume slider all the way to the left.


Once in this state, I've found no way out of it except to power cycle.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18373077
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> What happened if you was not available or so gentle.



...or free, and the choices would be:


- paying a specialist to set up your system or provide consultation, or


- reading the manual from cover to cover (it really does have the answers), or


- sending setup questions to [email protected] - it's easy and effective especially when questions aren't in the form of an essay.


----------



## MikeCornika

Nick,


When we pay 8500 + tx = aprox 10000 we don't want to pay another 1000 or I don't know how for a specialist.

I respect Anthem, for this I have buyed their gear.

If you look at my post I suppose you realise a have pass cover to cover your manual.

Anyway, thanks for your input. If I need your help for sure I'll contact you.

Thanks again.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18375000
> 
> 
> Nick,
> 
> 
> When we pay 8500 + tx = aprox 10000 we don't want to pay another 1000 or I don't know how for a specialist.
> 
> I respect Anthem, for this I have buyed their gear.
> 
> If you look at my post I suppose you realise a have pass cover to cover your manual.
> 
> Anyway, thanks for your input. If I need your help for sure I'll contact you.
> 
> Thanks again.



At least half of D2v owners do pay for setup - they are custom installation jobs.


I don't want to start a precedent doing 1-on-1 support here because there is no time to be doing it in two places, but this is what's in the manual:


- triggers: page 14 shows a D2v and two amps, section 3.11 says how to set things. This information hasn't changed in 10 years and I don't see why it's a problem now.


- mode bypass: select None. For preset see section 3.7 and for on-the-fly see section 4.8.


- sound settings - section 3.14 deals with memorizing everything to that point, ARC is its own setup following that. The levels and crossovers sections basically say Skip This if using ARC. The opening of section 3 stresses the importance of doing everything in order.


- Dolby Volume - actually it is only for internal use right now, and it has its own manual. Stay tuned for v2.1 software and manual. When that comes out all you will have to do to find the added setup and use instructions is to type Dolby Volume in the Acrobat Reader "find" box or start with Ctrl+F.


- AnthemLogic - page 55 says it's for stereo sources and following that all the possibilities are in a chart.


- video - setup in section 3.1 and use in section 4.11. It's all there and beyond that it's professional setup, or taking an ISF or SMPTE course and having thousands of dollars worth of test gear. I'm actually at EHXpo right now taking the 3-day ISF course, and it is for the ISFccc-certified LTX 500v projector among other things not for the D2v which is more about aspect ratio control. I think the two pages of diagrams I made with the circles and squares in section 4.11 explain the possibilities best.


Please don't hesitate to contact the usual place if further help is needed. We are very accustomed to questions already answered in the manual, that is no big deal.


----------



## AbMagFab

*Nick* - Please make sure to add discrete serial/RS232 commands for all the Dolby Volume stuff!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/18375498
> 
> *Nick* - Please make sure to add discrete serial/RS232 commands for all the Dolby Volume stuff!



RS232 commands for Dolby Volume are already established. See the ARC V2.4 install kit for details. The TXT file summarizes what was added and the XLS file (in the Manuals folder) gives all the details. Of course these RS232 commands only function at the moment if you are using a "test" software version that includes Dolby Volume.


-----------------------------------


Nick has stated that the user interface for Dolby Volume is likely to change a bit fairly soon. Presumably this will alter what you can do with the remote. For example, I've asked for a shortcut that would let you change the Dolby Volume Leveling setting on the fly just like you can now do with Off/Movie/Music. My suggestion is to continue using the "0" button as now. One press of "0" lets you view/alter DV OFF/Movie/Music for the current Source. Changes go into Setup -- i.e., they are permanent. If DV is OFF a second press of the "0" button right now lets you view/alter the older "Dynamics" setting in the processor from pre Dolby Volume days. My suggestion is that if DV is Movie or Music a second press of the "0" button would let you view/alter the DV Leveling setting for the current Source -- also a permanent change.


This way you could easily experiment with different Leveling settings while playing specific content.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

I'm having a problem using my SMS-1 with the D2. I followed the manual as far as all the connections go. I'm using the AUX. setting on the D2. The test tone from the SMS-1only goes to the front speakers. Nothing comes out of the subwoofer. I'm only using the SMS-1 to find the best placement for the sub and to do the phase adjustment, otherwise I let the ARC / D2 everything else. Once I have these2 things done I'll disconnect the SMS-1. I checked out the menu on the D2 and I think it's the mode setting, for aux. it says 6.0 na or something to that effect. That's the only thing that comes up. I also disabled the arc eq while I'm trying to do these settings.


TIA,

Ken


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18376225
> 
> 
> I'm having a problem using my SMS-1 with the D2. I followed the manual as far as all the connections go. I'm using the AUX. setting on the D2. The test tone from the SMS-1only goes to the front speakers. Nothing comes out of the subwoofer. I'm only using the SMS-1 to find the best placement for the sub and to do the phase adjustment, otherwise I let the ARC / D2 everything else. Once I have these2 things done I'll disconnect the SMS-1. I checked out the menu on the D2 and I think it's the mode setting, for aux. it says 6.0 na or something to that effect. That's the only thing that comes up. I also disabled the arc eq while I'm trying to do these settings.
> 
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Ken



Ken,


This is my setup for SMS-1 EQ exercise.


D2(SAT Input) -> SMS-1(EQ Output 14)

D2(SUB Output) -> SMS-1(LFE Input 7 or 17)

SMS-1(LFE Output 6 or 13) -> Sub


D2 Settings -


Audio In = Analog -DSP

Bass Manager = Movie

Room EQ = OFF

Mode = Stereo


Set the SMS-1 Vol to, say, Level 20 and use the D2 to vary the test signal volume while you do your adjustments. Of course, you can use any other Input for your D2 connection rather than SAT, but be sure to set Room EQ to OFF for that particular source. Also make sure to deactivate the Trigger Mode in your SMS-1.

For phase adjustment with your Fronts, switch on the Power Amp driving the Fronts, otherwise off it (so the test signal only comes out of your Sub).


It works for me, so it should as well for you. Hope this is what you're looking for. Have fun!


Ben


----------



## funlvr1965

After running ARC I checked the speaker levels with a sound meter and noticed that not all of the speakers were set to the same level, is it ok to just adjust them so they are all the same or will that screw up the calibration?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/18378904
> 
> 
> After running ARC I checked the speaker levels with a sound meter and noticed that not all of the speakers were set to the same level, is it ok to just adjust them so they are all the same or will that screw up the calibration?



The measurement that Arc does is probably much more accurate than the meter. I'd leave them alone.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *funlvr1965* /forum/post/18378904
> 
> 
> After running ARC I checked the speaker levels with a sound meter and noticed that not all of the speakers were set to the same level, is it ok to just adjust them so they are all the same or will that screw up the calibration?



A couple dB difference after the ARC Upload is normal. DO NOT adjust it.


ARC uses a wider frequency range to set the level trim for each speaker than is present in the test tone you would use with the SPL meter. In addition, the actual volume from each speaker is a combo of the volume trim and any boosts/cuts ARC applies as part of the Room Correction processing -- boosts and cuts that aren't included in the test tones.


So the only way you'd get a precise match is if: (1) your speakers don't have any unusual high or low output regions beyond the range present in the normal SPL test tones, and (2) ARC had little boosting or cutting it had to do as part of its Room Correction processing.


NOTE that ARC will tend to use a higher volume trim for a given speaker that needs correction so that more of the correction can be implemented as cuts instead of boosts.


Trust the results ARC has Uploaded as they are more accurate.

--Bob


----------



## funlvr1965




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18378936
> 
> 
> A couple dB difference after the ARC Upload is normal. DO NOT adjust it.
> 
> 
> ARC uses a wider frequency range to set the level trim for each speaker than is present in the test tone you would use with the SPL meter. In addition, the actual volume from each speaker is a combo of the volume trim and any boosts/cuts ARC applies as part of the Room Correction processing -- boosts and cuts that aren't included in the test tones.
> 
> 
> So the only way you'd get a precise match is if: (1) your speakers don't have any unusual high or low output regions beyond the range present in the normal SPL test tones, and (2) ARC had little boosting or cutting it had to do as part of its Room Correction processing.
> 
> 
> NOTE that ARC will tend to use a higher volume trim for a given speaker that needs correction so that more of the correction can be implemented as cuts instead of boosts.
> 
> 
> Trust the results ARC has Uploaded as they are more accurate.
> 
> --Bob




Ok thanks for the tip


----------



## MikeCornika

Nick,

Thanks for your detailed answer, even is not related to the point I have brought in my post.

Regards.


----------



## MikeCornika

Bob,

When I have run the ARC I have the SPL started and I have remarked the test tone for the sub was at least 10 dB lower. I was expected to be in the same range with the others speakers. I remember the Audissey is working the same, the test tone for sub more quiet. The resulting sound after the uploading is ok, for the moment I have to accustom with the new sound, more depth, more bass, very fast versus what I was acquainted. Is like I need a break-in on for my ears.

Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18379404
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> When I have run the ARC I have the SPL started and I have remarked the test tone for the sub was at least 10 dB lower. I was expected to be in the same range with the others speakers. I remember the Audissey is working the same, the test tone for sub more quiet. The resulting sound after the uploading is ok, for the moment I have to accustom with the new sound, more depth, more bass, very fast versus what I was acquainted. Is like I need a break-in on for my ears.
> 
> Thanks



I'm not sure I understand your question. Are you trying to measure the SPL of the ARC sweep tones for the subwoofer while ARC is doing its Measurements? That's not going to work very well. The SPL meter doesn't respond that fast to changing bass tones, and on top of that most SPL meters under-report frequencies below 80Hz by a few dB.

--Bob


----------



## MikeCornika

No, the SPL was powered for the test tone and sub initial setting and I have forgot to close it, but when the sweep tones was working, at one moment I realized the SPL is still working and by curiosity I have follow it. That was all.

It's by curiosity, but I see your point.

I understand very well how ARC is working and how to set up a preamplifier, is not the first time I have done this (sure not with Anthem). For you, I have a engineering background.

Anyway I have enjoyed the second part of Crossroad concert in Chicago, great sound.

Thanks.


----------



## chadnliz

Just curious if anyone in Ohio has the Anthem D2V that I could bounce some questions off of, might be nice to meet a more local guy who has the same gear and passion. Thanks Chad


----------



## groy67

Hi Guys,

New to the site...

I have purchased a new AVM 50v and I'm a little puzzled with the Arc calibration. The first position is obvious but position 2, 3, 4, 5 are not so obvious. That being said where should the mike be placed in the the second position and third and so on; if I'm using a 5.1 setup? Does it it matter where I place the the mic? Should it go to the right of the listening position is I'm looking at at Tv?

Much Regards,

Gerry


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chadnliz* /forum/post/18382578
> 
> 
> Just curious if anyone in Ohio has the Anthem D2V that I could bounce some questions off of, might be nice to meet a more local guy who has the same gear and passion. Thanks Chad



Creepy?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *groy67* /forum/post/18382924
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> New to the site...
> 
> I have purchased a new AVM 50v and I'm a little puzzled with the Arc calibration. The first position is obvious but position 2, 3, 4, 5 are not so obvious. That being said where should the mike be placed in the the second position and third and so on; if I'm using a 5.1 setup? Does it it matter where I place the the mic? Should it go to the right of the listening position is I'm looking at at Tv?
> 
> Much Regards,
> 
> Gerry



First of all, welcome to AVS and to the "Cool Kids Thread"!


The idea is to select mic positions that allow ARC to sample the area you typically use for seating. The mics don't have to be set precisely where each listener's head might be in your multiple seats so long as the seating area gets sampled. The important rules are:


1) Point the mic straight up at each position.

2) Position the mic at seated ear height. If your chairs recline, set the height according to how you position the chairs for viewing.

3) Don't place the mic adjacent to a reflective or blocking surface like a seat back or wall. Try to keep a couple feet away from walls. Raise the mic tip a few inches or move the mic about a foot closer to the screen to get the tip away from a seat back.

4) Mic position #1 should be at your center seating position. Position #1 is the one used for deciding on speaker volume trims.

5) Subsequent mic positions must alternate either side of #1. It doesn't matter which side you start with.

6) No two mic positions, whether or not sequential, should be closer than 24 inches. More is OK -- I use 30" myself. This separation is crucial because it lets ARC distinguish room response characteristics (which vary by location) from inherent speaker response characteristics (which don't).

7) It is good to have some forward/backward in the mic positions as well as side to side.


With a single row of seating -- such as with a typical couch -- an "arc" configuration is what is typically used. With 5 mics that would look like:


4.........................5

..\\....................../

....2.......1.........3


Positions #4 and #5 are swung closer to the screen. With the first three at head position near the back of the sofa, 4 and 5 might be positioned about equal with the front of the sofa cushion and outside the arms of the sofa for example. Typically 2 and 3 would be part way from the center towards where the listener's head would be if sitting tight into the corner of the sofa on each side.


With two rows of seating, 5 mics in a "box" configuration is often used:



2.......................3

..\\..................../

...........1..........

../...................\\

4......................5


Where position #1 might be just behind the center seat in the front row.


If your seats are spread over a larger area, you might use more than 5 mic positions, but in keeping with the general rules above.


So long as you pick a set of locations that sample the seating area and follow the rules above, the precise choice of mic positions other than #1 is not that crucial.

--Bob


----------



## groy67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18383083
> 
> 
> First of all, welcome to AVS and to the "Cool Kids Thread"!
> 
> 
> The idea is to select mic positions that allow ARC to sample the area you typically use for seating. The mics don't have to be set precisely where each listener's head might be in your multiple seats so long as the seating area gets sampled. The important rules are:
> 
> 
> 1) Point the mic straight up at each position.
> 
> 2) Position the mic at seated ear height. If your chairs recline, set the height according to how you position the chairs for viewing.
> 
> 3) Don't place the mic adjacent to a reflective or blocking surface like a seat back or wall. Try to keep a couple feet away from walls. Raise the mic tip a few inches or move the mic about a foot closer to the screen to get the tip away from a seat back.
> 
> 4) Mic position #1 should be at your center seating position. Position #1 is the one used for deciding on speaker volume trims.
> 
> 5) Subsequent mic positions must alternate either side of #1. It doesn't matter which side you start with.
> 
> 6) No two mic positions, whether or not sequential, should be closer than 24 inches. More is OK -- I use 30" myself. This separation is crucial because it lets ARC distinguish room response characteristics (which vary by location) from inherent speaker response characteristics (which don't).
> 
> 7) It is good to have some forward/backward in the mic positions as well as side to side.
> 
> 
> With a single row of seating -- such as with a typical couch -- an "arc" configuration is what is typically used. With 5 mics that would look like:
> 
> 
> 4.........................5
> 
> ..\\....................../
> 
> ....2.......1.........3
> 
> 
> Positions #4 and #5 are swung closer to the screen. With the first three at head position near the back of the sofa, 4 and 5 might be positioned about equal with the front of the sofa cushion and outside the arms of the sofa for example. Typically 2 and 3 would be part way from the center towards where the listener's head would be if sitting tight into the corner of the sofa on each side.
> 
> 
> With two rows of seating, 5 mics in a "box" configuration is often used:
> 
> 
> 
> 2.......................3
> 
> ..\\..................../
> 
> ...........1..........
> 
> ../...................\\
> 
> 4......................5
> 
> 
> Where position #1 might be just behind the center seat in the front row.
> 
> 
> If your seats are spread over a larger area, you might use more than 5 mic positions, but in keeping with the general rules above.
> 
> 
> So long as you pick a set of locations that sample the seating area and follow the rules above, the precise choice of mic positions other than #1 is not that crucial.
> 
> --Bob



Awesome! Great that is a great help!!!

Great Site BTW and thank you very much for your help.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *groy67* /forum/post/18383368
> 
> 
> Awesome! Great that is a great help!!!
> 
> Great Site BTW and thank you very much for your help.




Greetings,


To echo what Bob said, Welcome to AVS and the world of Anthem..











Regards,


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/18382947
> 
> 
> Creepy?



Did I miss something? What is creepy about asking if local Anthem enthusiasts exist? Many people are more comfortable with face to face discussion even today.


----------



## jayray

Have been playing around with 2.08h firmware and after uploading my previous measurement, I noticed an improvement in my LFE. It was even tighter that before after I tested some of my more familiar discs.

As well, the test level bug seems to still be there after doing a new ARC measurement. Set RS SPL to 75 db and it ended up at 83 db. Video seems a little more detailed but this is hard to prove.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/18384147
> 
> 
> did i miss something? What is creepy about asking if local anthem enthusiasts exist? Many people are more comfortable with face to face discussion even today.



+1


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/18384147
> 
> 
> Did I miss something? What is creepy about asking if local Anthem enthusiasts exist? Many people are more comfortable with face to face discussion even today.



Using a tech message board to meet people just seems a little creepy to me. I would never go meet someone who just posted here saying "anyone want to meet up".


Now, if it were someone I sort of "knew" better, like Bob, it would be different.


But I'm from NYC, so we're all inherently paranoid that everyone is creepy by default, and they have to earn their way out of it.


----------



## chadnliz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/18382947
> 
> 
> Creepy?



I am not sure what you are getting at but if wondering if another local guy into hometheater that also has an Anthem that I am learning how to use could maybe help me and maybe befriend strikes you as "creepy" you have far more issues than I do. Your post is off base and insulting.


----------



## veneziana

Hi to all,

I've problem with the "great" SKY HD SATELLITE RECEIVER...italy....

the box tell me that there are HDCP problem and don't work.

I've chanced 3 hdmi cables but I haven't good result


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veneziana* /forum/post/18387230
> 
> 
> Hi to all,
> 
> I've problem with the "great" SKY HD SATELLITE RECEIVER...italy....
> 
> the box tell me that there are HDCP problem and don't work.
> 
> I've chanced 3 hdmi cables but I haven't good result



You might want to try a component cable. These usually work and there will be no loss in video quality as a result. For sound just hook up a coaxial or optical cable. You should be good to go. Which Anthem pre/pro are you using? Some of the newer firmware releases have improved HDMI syncing. It may also be a problem with your satellite receiver's implementation of HDMI signals.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veneziana* /forum/post/18387230
> 
> 
> Hi to all,
> 
> I've problem with the "great" SKY HD SATELLITE RECEIVER...italy....
> 
> the box tell me that there are HDCP problem and don't work.
> 
> I've chanced 3 hdmi cables but I haven't good result



The problem may be in the HDMI cable to your display. Try temporarily setting the Anthem's Video Output to 1080i instead of 1080p. If that works when using your Sky box, but 1080p to the display does not, then that suggests you need to upgrade the cable to your display. If you have anything else in the HDMI path -- a splitter for example, or even wall plates, they are often the cause of such problems.


Get a flashlight and carefully check the plugs and sockets at both ends of the HDMI cables looking for bent pins.


Make sure the plugs are fully inserted straight into the sockets with no tugging of the plug in any direction, as, for example, by the weight of the cable. HDMI plugs are only friction fit, and it doesn't take much of a shift for the connection to become unreliable.


In Setup > Video Output, use an explicit HDMI data setting instead of Auto. YCbCr 4:4:4 is the normal choice. In Setup > Source Setup for the Sky box input, turn Auto Dig OFF. In Video Source Adjust > Output while viewing the Sky box, set Frame Lock OFF. These all simplify the HDMI handshake.


Connect the Sky box directly to the display to make sure its HDMI is functional at all. Check to see if there is a firmware update available for the Sky box.


Understand that HDMI is an end to end protocol controlled by each SOURCE device. This is why improving the output to your display might fix things even though only the Sky box's implementation of HDMI is causing you problems.


Some older satellite and cable TV boxes have poor implementations of HDMI that will not work through an in-between box like the Anthem. That is, their HDMI will ONLY work if the box is directly connected to a TV.


As suggested above, using Component video and Optical audio from the Sky box may be the easiest answer, particularly if your HDMI is working without problems from other HDMI Source devices.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


After I have attended an ISF training and bought the necessary equipment (an i1 Pro sensor and a pattern generator) I, of course, calibrated my projector, an Epson 9500UB. You can see the results here .

Now the question is what do I do with all the settings available on my D2v video processor?

Just leave it all to defaults?

When and why would I need to modify the settings?

I would appreciate you share your thoughts about it.


Thank you


----------



## J. FRICANO

Hello All,

I just recently purchased an OPPO BDP-83 SE player and want to use it with my D2 (V1.33 Firmware and ARC). What are the recommended settings and hook ups based on your experiences? I am useing an HDMI and the 6-Channel audio outputs to the D2. I currenly select the 6- Channel output for concert Blu-Rays and SACD multtichannel audio discs and HDMI for movies. I have the 6-Channel output set up for Analog DSP rather than Direct on the D2 to take advantage of ARC processing. I also have the music configuration for ARC bass settings applied to this input. The OPPO seems to have both outputs available and it seems the Analog outs sound better than when the HDMI is chosen for music. Any thoughts and suggestions to maximize my results would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you for your time and consideration, John Fricano.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18391638
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> After I have attended an ISF training and bought the necessary equipment (an i1 Pro sensor and a pattern generator) I, of course, calibrated my projector, an Epson 9500UB. You can see the results here .
> 
> Now the question is what do I do with all the settings available on my D2v video processor?
> 
> Just leave it all to defaults?
> 
> When and why would I need to modify the settings?
> 
> I would appreciate you share your thoughts about it.
> 
> 
> Thank you



In its default settings, the D2v takes "reference" video input signals and produces "reference" video output signals. If your sources need no help in what they output and your display needs no help in what it does with reference video input then you don't need to fiddle with the default video settings in the D2v.


If any of your sources has a problem in its output that can not be corrected with controls in the source, then you have the D2v settings in Video Source Adjust to help. If your display has a problem that can not be fixed with its own controls then, again, changes in the D2v settings may help. But you should try to get the display correct, as best you can, with its own controls first. Note that one of the more common display problems is for the display to screw up when fed a particular FORMAT of video, even though it works correctly with some other format. So for example some displays need YCbCr input to work their best while others need RGB. A discovery like this would mean there is a bug in the display, but again, the easiest way to fix it may simply be to take advantage of the fact that the D2v can be set either way and does BOTH correctly.


EXAMPLE: Some displays clip Blacker than Black and/or Peak White video data in one format but not the other.


In the "test" V2.08h firmware, Anthem has now added the ability to control the bit size of the video data as well, just in case you have a display which SAYS it accepts "Deep Color" input, but does not, in fact, work very well when fed that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/18392178
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I just recently purchased an OPPO BDP-83 SE player and want to use it with my D2 (V1.33 Firmware and ARC). What are the recommended settings and hook ups based on your experiences? I am useing an HDMI and the 6-Channel audio outputs to the D2. I currenly select the 6- Channel output for concert Blu-Rays and SACD multtichannel audio discs and HDMI for movies. I have the 6-Channel output set up for Analog DSP rather than Direct on the D2 to take advantage of ARC processing. I also have the music configuration for ARC bass settings applied to this input. The OPPO seems to have both outputs available and it seems the Analog outs sound better than when the HDMI is chosen for music. Any thoughts and suggestions to maximize my results would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Thank you for your time and consideration, John Fricano.



In the Oppo, set its speaker configuration so that ALL speakers are "Large", are at the same distance, and have 0dB volume adjustment. The particular distance setting doesn't matter so long as they are all the same. The Down Mix should be to 5.1 since the D2 only has a 5.1 analog input. In addition, make sure the Volume control on the Oppo is set all the way up (100). These settings insure that all adjustments to the analog audio are done in the D2 (with the exception of Down Mix of any 7.1 content you might play over the analog connection).


Note that the stereo analog output of the Oppo is better quality than the LF/RF portion of its 6 channel output, so you may want to use that instead when playing stereo content.


You can use SACD Playback = DSD in the Oppo with the analog outputs. The Oppo will convert the DSD data from the SACD disc directly to analog without converting it to LPCM first. However this setting will NOT work over HDMI to the D2. To avoid noise on the HDMI you should probably turn OFF the HDMI Audio output of the Oppo when using SACD DSD.


In the D2, if you use stereo analog input, be sure to raise the sampling rate for the re-digitizing of the stereo input from the default 44.1 KHz to 96KHz in Setup > ADC. The 6 channel input is already at 96KHz by default.


ARC does nothing different between its Movie and Music configurations. The only differences will be those you build into those two solutions (e.g., setting the Music configuration to not include the Center channel).


Typically folks are setting up their Music configuration for use when playing stereo content and their Movie configuration for use when playing multi-channel content, whether or not that multi-channel content is a movie or some music.


If you have set ARC's Music solution to exclude some speakers and then you play multi-channel music content, such as an SACD, using ARC Music, then you are forcing some of the content channels to be steered to other speakers.


That aside, if you are hearing substantial differences between the 6 channel input and HDMI input, then check that you don't have a setting mistake in your D2. For example, make sure Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ is turned on for both sources so that both are actually using ARC, and make sure your audio surround mode is the same for both. Use Setup > Mode Presets to set the default surround modes. E.g., if you have 7.1 speakers and you have your 6 channel source set to NONE surround mode (rear speakers silent) while the source you are using with the HDMI input is set to PLIIx (content created for the rear speakers) then of course you will hear a difference. The same is true if THX post processing is turned on for one but not the other.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

My D2 appears to have developed a problem upscaling S-Video signals. The picture keeps jumping from color to B&W to no picture and back.


The problem is confined to HDMI output; S-Video output is fine. Setup menu is also working fine. So it looks like the problem is with the scaler.


I would be grateful if anybody here has any suggestion where I should be checking. Thanks.


Ben


----------



## jayray

Bob,

while playing the series Pacific from my cable box I noticed the input was 2.0 when I knew it should be 5.1. I then noticed I had DV on for the cable box and then turned it off. The signal was now coming in as 5.1, as it should. Have you experienced this with DV on?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18392815
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> while playing the series Pacific from my cable box I noticed the input was 2.0 when I knew it should be 5.1. I then noticed I had DV on for the cable box and then turned it off. The signal was now coming in as 5.1, as it should. Have you experienced this with DV on?
> 
> John



I have NOT noticed this. I'll keep an eye out for it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18392686
> 
> 
> My D2 appears to have developed a problem upscaling S-Video signals. The picture keeps jumping from color to B&W to no picture and back.
> 
> 
> The problem is confined to HDMI output; S-Video output is fine. Setup menu is also working fine. So it looks like the problem is with the scaler.
> 
> 
> I would be grateful if anybody here has any suggestion where I should be checking. Thanks.
> 
> 
> Ben



The most common reason for this is that the S-video plug is not fully inserted in the socket. These are friction fit plugs, and it is very easy for them to become a little loose in the socket. The video digitizer is more sensitive to a bad input signal than the pass through.


Also try to bring up the Setup menu. That's an internally generated S-video source. If that works OK then the digitizer and scaler are working fine.


If you also have trouble with the Setup menu, give Anthem tech support a call. The usual first step is to try a re-install of the firmware.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18393154
> 
> 
> The most common reason for this is that the S-video plug is not fully inserted in the socket. These are friction fit plugs, and it is very easy for them to become a little loose in the socket. The video digitizer is more sensitive to a bad input signal than the pass through.
> 
> 
> Also try to bring up the Setup menu. That's an internally generated S-video source. If that works OK then the digitizer and scaler are working fine.
> 
> 
> If you also have trouble with the Setup menu, give Anthem tech support a call. The usual first step is to try a re-install of the firmware.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,

Thanks for responding.

The Setup menu is fine.

The plugs fit appear fine. The picture from the (D2) S-Video output is good. HDMI connections are good, because input from DVD sources have no problem.


So what else can it be? Am scratching my head bald!


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18393229
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> Thanks for responding.
> 
> The Setup menu is fine.
> 
> The plugs fit appear fine. The picture from the (D2) S-Video output is good. HDMI connections are good, because input from DVD sources have no problem.
> 
> 
> So what else can it be? Am scratching my head bald!
> 
> 
> Ben



Try a different S-video cable, a different S-video input socket, and, if you have one, a different S-video source device to see if you can isolate the cause of the problem.


Some S-video sources -- the user interface from the Velodyne subwoofers being the prime example -- will not work with the D2 video digitizer because they only actually output every other interlaced field. (That problem is fixed in the D2v.)

--Bob


----------



## Milt99

I'll probably get directed to the FAQ on this but:

How many D2 owners are using firmware 1.47 and how was the upgrade process?

Anyone get bricked?

I get more and more of what seem to me HDMI handshake issues on BDs.

I'm talking about between trailers and the main setup menu sometimes if I skip some or all of them and sometimes when I don't input any command, I get either the blue screen or snow. It always recovers but I'm a spoiled juvenile










I'm a bit wary of upgrading because it's not official yet.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

i just did it and the D2 now works perfectly. If you can upgrade to it (your D2 has the right video board etc.) I would do it ASAP. So happy I did. I was having constant handshake problems etc and now nothing


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/18393764
> 
> 
> I'll probably get directed to the FAQ on this but:
> 
> How many D2 owners are using firmware 1.47 and how was the upgrade process?
> 
> Anyone get bricked?
> 
> I get more and more of what seem to me HDMI handshake issues on BDs.
> 
> I'm talking about between trailers and the main setup menu sometimes if I skip some or all of them and sometimes when I don't input any command, I get either the blue screen or snow. It always recovers but I'm a spoiled juvenile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a bit wary of upgrading because it's not official yet.



Keeping in mind that the people with access and the desire to update tend to be folks who already have the updating process down pat, I don't believe we've had a single report of an install problem with the "test" V1.47f firmware on units this firmware was supposed to be able to run on.


When it first came out, we had a few failure reports until we got the word from Anthem that this "test" firmware will not work on all production runs of the D2 or AVM 50.

--Bob


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18392453
> 
> 
> In the Oppo, set its speaker configuration so that ALL speakers are "Large", are at the same distance, and have 0dB volume adjustment. The particular distance setting doesn't matter so long as they are all the same. The Down Mix should be to 5.1 since the D2 only has a 5.1 analog input. In addition, make sure the Volume control on the Oppo is set all the way up (100). These settings insure that all adjustments to the analog audio are done in the D2 (with the exception of Down Mix of any 7.1 content you might play over the analog connection).
> 
> 
> Note that the stereo analog output of the Oppo is better quality than the LF/RF portion of its 6 channel output, so you may want to use that instead when playing stereo content.
> 
> 
> You can use SACD Playback = DSD in the Oppo with the analog outputs. The Oppo will convert the DSD data from the SACD disc directly to analog without converting it to LPCM first. However this setting will NOT work over HDMI to the D2. To avoid noise on the HDMI you should probably turn OFF the HDMI Audio output of the Oppo when using SACD DSD.
> 
> 
> In the D2, if you use stereo analog input, be sure to raise the sampling rate for the re-digitizing of the stereo input from the default 44.1 KHz to 96KHz in Setup > ADC. The 6 channel input is already at 96KHz by default.
> 
> 
> ARC does nothing different between its Movie and Music configurations. The only differences will be those you build into those two solutions (e.g., setting the Music configuration to not include the Center channel).
> 
> 
> Typically folks are setting up their Music configuration for use when playing stereo content and their Movie configuration for use when playing multi-channel content, whether or not that multi-channel content is a movie or some music.
> 
> 
> If you have set ARC's Music solution to exclude some speakers and then you play multi-channel music content, such as an SACD, using ARC Music, then you are forcing some of the content channels to be steered to other speakers.
> 
> 
> That aside, if you are hearing substantial differences between the 6 channel input and HDMI input, then check that you don't have a setting mistake in your D2. For example, make sure Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ is turned on for both sources so that both are actually using ARC, and make sure your audio surround mode is the same for both. Use Setup > Mode Presets to set the default surround modes. E.g., if you have 7.1 speakers and you have your 6 channel source set to NONE surround mode (rear speakers silent) while the source you are using with the HDMI input is set to PLIIx (content created for the rear speakers) then of course you will hear a difference. The same is true if THX post processing is turned on for one but not the other.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you very much Bob for your fast and detailed response. Your experience on this forum is invaluable and much appreciated. John.


----------



## RIppolito

I have an AVM-50, a SA8300HD cable box, and a Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M monitor. In the video output config on the Anthem, I was using 'auto' for the data item (row f), assuming it would pass through standard RGB from the 8300HD to the monitor. I set the Kuro to 'auto', and got an excellent picturre.


In the Kuro, I switched it from auto to RGB 16-235, and now, the picture went from very good to green or pink. When I set the Kuro to YUV444, the picture goes back to very good.


Everything I have read suggests that the SA8300HD outputs RGB 16-235, so my questions are...
Does anyone understand how the handshaking among the cable box, the Anthem, and the Kuro works?
Why would it come up with YUV444 if the cable box outputs RGB 16-235?


Thanks in advance,


Ron


----------



## uberanalyst

I've been successfully using test v1.47 with the D2 ever since that software became available some time ago. It cured the HDMI switching issues, especially with HDTivo channel changes. In fact, 1.47 is good enough that I set my HDTivo to use "native" output over HDMI, to output 1080i/720p/480i into the D2 depending on the channel. This provides the best possible picture quality, with the D2 video board doing all the scaling/interlacing instead of the Tivo.


The only downside is the occasional loud pops when a cable channel change results in a change in HDMI resolution (e.g., from 1080i to 720p). But this is a small issue compared to the major HDMI handshaking failures I used to experience with v1.33.


I keep hoping Anthem hasn't abandoned the D2 -- it's been a long time since any new test firmware updates, and would be nice if they could get rid of the occasional popping noises during v1.47 HDMI resolution switching.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/18394309
> 
> 
> I have an AVM-50, a SA8300HD cable box, and a Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M monitor. In the video output config on the Anthem, I was using 'auto' for the data item (row f), assuming it would pass through standard RGB from the 8300HD to the monitor. I set the Kuro to 'auto', and got an excellent picturre.
> 
> 
> In the Kuro, I switched it from auto to RGB 16-235, and now, the picture went from very good to green or pink. When I set the Kuro to YUV444, the picture goes back to very good.
> 
> 
> Everything I have read suggests that the SA8300HD outputs RGB 16-235, so my questions are...
> Does anyone understand how the handshaking among the cable box, the Anthem, and the Kuro works?
> Why would it come up with YUV444 if the cable box outputs RGB 16-235?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Ron



The input and output video formats are independent. There is no "pass through" of video in the Anthems unless you bypass the scaler altogether (e.g., Component input to Zone 2 Component output as "unprocessed" video). On the Main path, the Anthem converts the input format to the output format.


The HDMI Data = Auto setting in Setup > Video Output means that the Anthem uses whatever data format the display reports is its "preferred" video data format -- regardless of what's coming in on the Anthem's video inputs.


Apparently when you played with the Kuro's settings you did something that caused a mismatch in the format handshake. Video which is Shocking Pink means a device is sending RGB when the device at the other end of the cable was expecting YCbCr. Video which is Ghastly Green is the other way around.


You can usually avoid such handshake problems by using an explicit data format setting. If the devices at both ends of the cable can be forced to send/expect a given format, then of course they must be set to match.


For HDMI to HDMI connections, the normal choice is YCbCr 4:4:4. If either end of the cable is DVI, the normal choice is Studio RGB (Black = 16).


You can't get the input side of the Anthem wrong as regards data format. It will automatically use RGB or YCbCr input according to what's coming in on the HDMI cable. However you CAN get the data range of RGB wrong as that is not agreed as part of the handshake. When using RGB, BOTH sides of the cable have to be set MANUALLY to agree whether Black = 16 (normal -- Studio RGB) or Black = 0 (unusual; intended for computer graphics input -- Extended RGB).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18392815
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> while playing the series Pacific from my cable box I noticed the input was 2.0 when I knew it should be 5.1. I then noticed I had DV on for the cable box and then turned it off. The signal was now coming in as 5.1, as it should. Have you experienced this with DV on?
> 
> John



I just tested this with my Comcast/Motorola HD/DVR, and at first I thought I was seeing the problem you report.


However what was ACTUALLY happening was two other things:


1) The stations broadcasting 5.1 programs switch to 2.0 for commercials or other stuff overlaid in the local station.


2) The Comcast/Motorola box puts up an on-screen display each time you change channels that gives the name of the program and, among other things, whether it is DD5.1 or 2.0. Well it turns out the DD status lags everything else by a few seconds. So you change to a new channel and the on-screen display from Comcast shows it is DD5.1. A couple seconds later that display goes away (times out) still showing DD5.1. But in reality the program is 2.0 and that's what the D2v is receiving. If you bring up the Info from the Comcast box again it will now, finally, show it as 2.0. The 5.1 status was simply left over from the previous channel.


So far, I've not been able to make DV Music produce the failure you report. I'll continue to keep an eye on it. NOTE: I'm using Component video and Optical audio from my Comcast box.

--Bob


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18391638
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> After I have attended an ISF training and bought the necessary equipment (an i1 Pro sensor and a pattern generator) I, of course, calibrated my projector, an Epson 9500UB. You can see the results here .
> 
> Now the question is what do I do with all the settings available on my D2v video processor?
> 
> Just leave it all to defaults?
> 
> When and why would I need to modify the settings?
> 
> I would appreciate you share your thoughts about it.
> 
> 
> Thank you



Hello,


In addition to what Bob mentioned earlier, the basic reasons to include D2v calibration settings are to correct the video between sources. For instance the brightness may be off between your satellite and Blu ray player, so the Anthem can correct the brightness to get consistent black level performance between the components. Another reason to include the Anthem processor is to even out the contrast (or peak white) between components. The Anthem has gamma adjust as well, but you'll need to use an auxiliary program to access it. By the looks of your charts the Gamma didn't look bad, but blue goes crazy at low IRE. Give that you're using an i1Pro you need to keep in mind how well it performs below 1.5 ftL or so. Use your eyes as a guide at low IRE. The chart may not tell the accurate story at very low IRE.


Regards


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18394495
> 
> 
> I just tested this with my Comcast/Motorola HD/DVR, and at first I thought I was seeing the problem you report.
> 
> 
> However what was ACTUALLY happening was two other things:
> 
> 
> 1) The stations broadcasting 5.1 programs switch to 2.0 for commercials or other stuff overlaid in the local station.
> 
> 
> 2) The Comcast/Motorola box puts up an on-screen display each time you change channels that gives the name of the program and, among other things, whether it is DD5.1 or 2.0. Well it turns out the DD status lags everything else by a few seconds. So you change to a new channel and the on-screen display from Comcast shows it is DD5.1. A couple seconds later that display goes away (times out) still showing DD5.1. But in reality the program is 2.0 and that's what the D2v is receiving. If you bring up the Info from the Comcast box again it will now, finally, show it as 2.0. The 5.1 status was simply left over from the previous channel.
> 
> 
> So far, I've not been able to make DV Music produce the failure you report. I'll continue to keep an eye on it. NOTE: I'm using Component video and Optical audio from my Comcast box.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

when I saw this problem, I was watching Pacific, with no commercials. I am using a SA8300 PVR using HDMI. I was using DV Movie when it happened. I'll try it again at some point and see if it is repeatable or whether it occurs with only DV Movie. Didn't try it with DV Music.

John


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chadnliz* /forum/post/18384781
> 
> 
> I am not sure what you are getting at but if wondering if another local guy into hometheater that also has an Anthem that I am learning how to use could maybe help me and maybe befriend strikes you as "creepy" you have far more issues than I do. Your post is off base and insulting.



Agreed, THere is absolutely nothing wrong with people whom have the same interest getting together to share said interest. Some people like to past judgement on others because they feel safe behind their computers. I find that most people whom talk bravely on a board would be too cowardly to say to ones face.....


ON that note did anyone see this article ?
http://www.cepro.com/slideshow/image/6256/ 


I thought it was fantastic!!


----------



## Milt99

Thanks for the responses guys re: firmware 1.47.

Thanks Bob, yeah I have the firmware thing down pat(crosses fingers) and have done every one since day one and fortunately I have a PC with a serial port.

It's just that other than the handshake annoyance, everything is working fine.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
Brian,

Not at all bad for a first try!


1) Did you do the exercise to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and also the volume knob on your sub prior to doing this pass? The basic volume level of your solution is up around 87dB. 75dB would be the usual target. So lower Test Level by about 10dB from whatever it is set to at this point. Also check the volume trim ARC Uploaded for your sub, and if it is not within a few dB of 0dB, separately adjust the volume knob in the sub to get it into closer balance with the rest of the speakers. E.g., if ARC Uploaded a sub volume trim of -8dB, that means it found the sub too hot, so lower the sub volume knob a bit before the next ARC pass.


2) You sub is showing good down to about 35Hz (the point at which its low frequency end drops below the basic volume level). This is not unusual for home theater subs, but there are subs that will go a good octave lower and I'm surprised yours doesn't since it seems to be doing quite well at the high end, and its low end roll off is not all that sharp. Double check that you don't have a subsonic filter turned on in it. If there is a subsonic filter (typically with a settings range from 20-35Hz) either disable it or turn it down to the lowest frequency. This may be masquerading as an adjustment for a sub being set up close to a wall. Lie to it and tell it your sub is NOT close to a wall even if it is.


3) I think your setup might be a good candidate to raise Max EQ Frequency Target above its default 5KHz setting. You can try that without having to re-Measure. Open your file in ARC's Advanced mode, go into the Targets window, make the change, accept the change, re-Calculate and re-Upload. Try 20KHz for example. Now you've got a Measurement dip at 15Khz that might be mic (or environment) related, but give it a try and see which you prefer.


4) Next time, capture your Targets window as well and post that along with your charts.


ARC calculates new crossovers for all the speakers (including the sub) and uploads them along with the volume trims and the room correction parameters.


The "cutoff" values in the Targets window will match the uploaded "crossovers" for all the speakers except the sub. The sub crossover (shaping the upper end of its response curve) will be distinct from its cutoff (determining how high up ARC assigns correction resources for the sub response. You can see the sub cutoff in Targets, but to see the crossover ARC has chosen for it you have to look in Setup after the ARC Upload.


I see no significant room problems you need to deal with beyond what you have already done. But I suggest you might play with the vertical tilt of Center and possibly the toe-in of LF/RF to reduce a bit of that high frequency roll-off showing in their Measurements (distinct from the 15KHz dip). Really only the Center curve needs work up there. LF/RF are not that bad as is, and with a higher Max EQ Frequency allowing ARC to correct up their, I think they will sound quite good indeed.

--Bob
Bob, I just finally re-measured using better mic points and after toe-ing in the RF and LF speakers a bit more. I took your advice and expanded the targets to 20KHz instead of 5KHz. I think I like the sound, but need to listen more extensively...wanted you to see the graphs now. I still am curious about my Sub per your earlier comments...I did reduce the volume of the sub to the point that it is +1DB now in the trim settings. I also reduced my Test Level per your note to -10DB from where it was originally.


The sub is a B&W ASW750 and you were right, I had to reduce the volume, to about 1/4 of the total volume knob, to get it now to +1DB on the final results from ARC. But my questions are this on the sub...


1. I have the EQ setting, which offers settings 'A' and 'B', set to use 'A' right now. According the ASW750 manual, "there are 2 settings of the EQ switch. Position B is optimised to allow the subwoofer to provide the highest listening levels, while Position A gives greater bass extension coupled with a tighter sound." Again, I chose A. I hope I chose wisely.


2. The second knob below the volume knob is the "Low Pass Frequency" knob. It starts at 40Hz and you can dial it as high as 180Hz...I have left it at the lowest setting, 40Hz, for the whole time I've owned it....is this right or no?


3. There is also a "Low Pass Filter" setting which allows for "in" or "out"...I have left it at "Out" for the duration of my owning it. Is this right or no?


These are my Sub concerns, but feel free to comment on the new measurements and all overall...thanks Bob, as usual your time/efforts are appreciated.


Best,

Brian

 

arc3targets.doc 93.5k . file

 

arc3main1.doc 82.5k . file

 

arc3main2.doc 83.5k . file


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18395225
> 
> 
> Bob, I just finally re-measured using better mic points and after toe-ing in the RF and LF speakers a bit more. I took your advice and expanded the targets to 20KHz instead of 5KHz. I think I like the sound, but need to listen more extensively...wanted you to see the graphs now. I still am curious about my Sub per your earlier comments...I did reduce the volume of the sub to the point that it is +1DB now in the trim settings. I also reduced my Test Level per your note to -10DB from where it was originally.
> 
> 
> The sub is a B&W ASW750 and you were right, I had to reduce the volume, to about 1/4 of the total volume knob, to get it now to +1DB on the final results from ARC. But my questions are this on the sub...
> 
> 
> 1. I have the EQ setting, which offers settings 'A' and 'B', set to use 'A' right now. According the ASW750 manual, "there are 2 settings of the EQ switch. Position B is optimised to allow the subwoofer to provide the highest listening levels, while Position A gives greater bass extension coupled with a tighter sound." Again, I chose A. I hope I chose wisely.
> 
> 
> 2. The second knob below the volume knob is the "Low Pass Frequency" knob. It starts at 40Hz and you can dial it as high as 180Hz...I have left it at the lowest setting, 40Hz, for the whole time I've owned it....is this right or no?
> 
> 
> 3. There is also a "Low Pass Filter" setting which allows for "in" or "out"...I have left it at "Out" for the duration of my owning it. Is this right or no?
> 
> 
> These are my Sub concerns, but feel free to comment on the new measurements and all overall...thanks Bob, as usual your time/efforts are appreciated.
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> Brian



Not Bob,


Your curve looks very good especially the sub, the low pass filter is at out therefore whatever the setting with the knob will not affect the output, still I would leave it at 180hz.


I would not force the max frequency adjustment all the way to 20khz. If you feel that you need more high frequency 5 to 8khz. is enough. But that is just my suggestion based on my experience with pro audio calibration.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18395225
> 
> 
> Bob, I just finally re-measured using better mic points and after toe-ing in the RF and LF speakers a bit more. I took your advice and expanded the targets to 20KHz instead of 5KHz. I think I like the sound, but need to listen more extensively...wanted you to see the graphs now. I still am curious about my Sub per your earlier comments...I did reduce the volume of the sub to the point that it is +1DB now in the trim settings. I also reduced my Test Level per your note to -10DB from where it was originally.
> 
> 
> The sub is a B&W ASW750 and you were right, I had to reduce the volume, to about 1/4 of the total volume knob, to get it now to +1DB on the final results from ARC. But my questions are this on the sub...
> 
> 
> 1. I have the EQ setting, which offers settings 'A' and 'B', set to use 'A' right now. According the ASW750 manual, "there are 2 settings of the EQ switch. Position B is optimised to allow the subwoofer to provide the highest listening levels, while Position A gives greater bass extension coupled with a tighter sound." Again, I chose A. I hope I chose wisely.
> 
> 
> 2. The second knob below the volume knob is the "Low Pass Frequency" knob. It starts at 40Hz and you can dial it as high as 180Hz...I have left it at the lowest setting, 40Hz, for the whole time I've owned it....is this right or no?
> 
> 
> 3. There is also a "Low Pass Filter" setting which allows for "in" or "out"...I have left it at "Out" for the duration of my owning it. Is this right or no?
> 
> 
> These are my Sub concerns, but feel free to comment on the new measurements and all overall...thanks Bob, as usual your time/efforts are appreciated.
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> Brian



The "A" setting on the subwoofer seems to be working well. I'd leave it there. My guess would be the "B" setting artificially boosts near 50Hz (at the expense of lower frequencies) which is a common trick for enhancing explosions in movie effects. You don't want that.


The "Low Pass Filter" on the subwoofer is also known as the crossover built-into the subwoofer. It controls the high frequency output of the sub. It passes frequencies lower than the setting and attenuates frequencies higher than the setting. So the 40Hz you have it set to would, all by itself, mean your sub doesn't have much output above 40Hz. Obviously the red Measured curve for the sub doesn't show that, which means the "Out" setting for the Low Pass Filter is bypassing that internal crossover -- which is exactly what you want to do -- and so the frequency setting for that filter is just being ignored anyway. Simply put, you don't have to change anything in the sub's settings.


Or as Obi Wan used to say, "Use the Luck, Luke!"










--------------------------------------


If memory serves, the speaker pointing adjustments you've done, and possibly your mic repositioning, have helped the high end of your main speakers. Again the main judge of whether raising Max EQ Frequency is a good idea is how your ears like the sound, but the Calculated curves look fine.


--------------------------------------


Which leaves the problem in LS near 100Hz. Normally you would start by looking into the positioning and installation of that surround speaker. Is something blocking the output from a driver? Is it a ceiling installation that's supposed to have some deadening material installed above it? In addition, you could check that all the drivers in LS are actually functioning. Play some stereo content with low frequencies, set Mono All audio mode so all speakers get the same thing sent to them and go put your ear up close to each driver in turn in LS to make sure they are all firing normally. Use RS for comparison. (By the way, if it is an installation problem you can demonstrate that by swapping LS/RS. If the problem stays on the left side then it is not the speaker itself.)


Also check to see if LS has any bass configuration option that might be set wrong such as a bass port that needs to be opened.


But in reality you are not that far from being able to correct things in ARC. You have two tools, both of which will help. First, since your sub is so good at the high end, you can raise the cutoff (crossover) Target for LS/RS above the 65Hz ARC is using. You could raise it up to around 90Hz safely. By shifting the rolloff point further to the right ARC will be able to avoid more of that dip.


Second you can lower the Room Gain ARC found. ARC found nearly 3dB of Room Gain to preserve, You could lower that to 2.5dB without much chance you'd hear the difference -- perhaps all the way to 2.0. That will reduce the Room Gain hump and thus put LS closer to the range ARC can correct completely.


Keep in mind you can also back off Max EQ Frequency a bit to allow ARC to apply more resource to the lower frequencies.


More likely a mix of these will give you the best fit without making much change in either. Experiment with different Calculations and Upload the result when you've got LS under control without screwing up any of the other speaker results.


-------------------------------------------


If you are going to use the Music configuration with any Source, don't forget you need to make the Max EQ Frequency change, and any of the above changes for LS, over there as well. Use ARC's View menu to select to view the Music solution charts.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/18393764
> 
> 
> I'll probably get directed to the FAQ on this but:
> 
> How many D2 owners are using firmware 1.47 and how was the upgrade process?
> 
> Anyone get bricked?
> 
> I get more and more of what seem to me HDMI handshake issues on BDs.
> 
> I'm talking about between trailers and the main setup menu sometimes if I skip some or all of them and sometimes when I don't input any command, I get either the blue screen or snow. It always recovers but I'm a spoiled juvenile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a bit wary of upgrading because it's not official yet.



Milt


I had no problems upgrading my D2 to 1.47f. I have the red video board and the old round transformer.


The update to 1.47f cured all my HDMI handshake problems especially with my Comcast Motorola box.


I also believe it improved my video picture.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As a reminder to D2 and AVM 50 owners: "Test" V1.47f is OK for your unit *EITHER* if you have a red video board (the big board just under the top vents) *OR* your power supply does *NOT* have the big toroidal (donut-shaped) transformer -- easily visible as well through the top vents if you use a flashlight. If either of those is true, then V1.47f is OK.


This is true even if you got, a new power supply or video board via service.


If, on the other hand, your video board is gray or green *AND* you have the toroidal transformer, then it is still possible "test" V1.47f might be OK for your hardware, but there is no easy way for you to tell, so play it safe and don't install it.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18393325
> 
> 
> Try a different S-video cable, a different S-video input socket, and, if you have one, a different S-video source device to see if you can isolate the cause of the problem.
> 
> 
> Some S-video sources -- the user interface from the Velodyne subwoofers being the prime example -- will not work with the D2 video digitizer because they only actually output every other interlaced field. (That problem is fixed in the D2v.)
> 
> --Bob



Tried all possibilities without any improvement. Blink .. color .. blink .. B&W .. blink blink .. color .. blink .. blank .... The symptoms suggest a weak signal. By contrast, S-Video output remains good.


My source is a Pioneer CLD-D99 LD player. I've never had any problem with it till now.


I suspect the problem is with the D2's video board. Recently I was experiencing some intermittent video dropout with HDMI connection and opened up the unit to check for loose contacts. It cured the HDMI problem, but I have not checked for S-Video performance till now. So it looks like I got rid of one problem only to bring about another.


Ben


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/18393764
> 
> 
> I'll probably get directed to the FAQ on this but:
> 
> How many D2 owners are using firmware 1.47 and how was the upgrade process?
> 
> Anyone get bricked?
> 
> I get more and more of what seem to me HDMI handshake issues on BDs.
> 
> I'm talking about between trailers and the main setup menu sometimes if I skip some or all of them and sometimes when I don't input any command, I get either the blue screen or snow. It always recovers but I'm a spoiled juvenile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a bit wary of upgrading because it's not official yet.



I have a AVM-50 running 1.47 and am happy. It fixed a lot if my HDMI hand shake issues and now mutes audio during hand shakes and change of audio format...


----------



## Kensmith48

benleeys,

Thanks for the info about the SMS-1. Everything worked as you stated. I've only done the placement portion though. The 1st sub is on my stage between the RF and the center channels. The 2nd sub which is in the rear of the theater is about 1 ft. away from the audio rack. I hope it doesn't shake things up in there.

Thanks again for the info.

Ken


----------



## veneziana

hi bob...hi all,

wich xlr cables you use for connection d2v...to final?

xlr is better than rca?

thanks

Andrea


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veneziana* /forum/post/18397341
> 
> 
> hi bob...hi all,
> 
> wich xlr cables you use for connection d2v...to final?
> 
> xlr is better than rca?
> 
> thanks
> 
> Andrea



Generally speaking XLR is better than RCA. But for short runs, there likely won't be any difference until you have some major magnetic/RF interference nearby.


That being said, if you have balanced connections between your pre-pro and amp, you might as well use them. monoprice.com is a sponsor and always has great quality cost-effective cables.


----------



## KX250F

What is the current MSRP for the D2v and the P5 amplifier?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veneziana* /forum/post/18397341
> 
> 
> hi bob...hi all,
> 
> wich xlr cables you use for connection d2v...to final?
> 
> xlr is better than rca?
> 
> thanks
> 
> Andrea



I use RCA cables myself. If you want to use XLR cables I like Blue Jeans Cable and MonoPrice for cable purchases.


XLR cables send the signal two ways, on two separate lines, one inverted. At the other end one signal is subtracted from the other. Since one signal is inverted, that means they are actually added (thus the inherent 6dB volume difference in XLR vs. RCA). But any interference that entered the signal along the length of the cable is NOT inverted, and will thus, theoretically, affect both signal paths equally. And so the subtraction at the receiving end automatically cancels it! XLR cables also have locking connectors, which is mainly important if you move equipment around a lot.


For both of these reasons XLR cables are used in professional studio environments where there are LOTS of sources of interference and where long cable runs are the norm.


The typical home theater environment uses short cable runs and has nowhere even close to that amount of interference floating about, so the benefit of XLR cables is really quite small (compared to decent quality, shielded RCA cables). Nevertheless, they look cool and bring peace of mind to some. Just don't go spending exorbitant amounts of money buying exotic XLR cables. A decently constructed, durable, high signal quality, shielded XLR cable should not be that expensive.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18396135
> 
> 
> Tried all possibilities without any improvement. Blink .. color .. blink .. B&W .. blink blink .. color .. blink .. blank .... The symptoms suggest a weak signal. By contrast, S-Video output remains good.
> 
> 
> My source is a Pioneer CLD-D99 LD player. I've never had any problem with it till now.
> 
> 
> I suspect the problem is with the D2's video board. Recently I was experiencing some intermittent video dropout with HDMI connection and opened up the unit to check for loose contacts. It cured the HDMI problem, but I have not checked for S-Video performance till now. So it looks like I got rid of one problem only to bring about another.
> 
> 
> Ben



So you are saying that the problem also happens with some other S-video source you used for testing?


Best give Anthem tech support a call. They will likely ask you to try a re-install of the firmware to start.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KX250F* /forum/post/18397503
> 
> 
> What is the current MSRP for the D2v and the P5 amplifier?



I haven't seen Anthem's official price list in some time, and it is not on their web site. Perhaps one of the dealers who follow this thread can repost the latest, official, US MSRP for these two. (MSRP only please.)

--Bob


----------



## KX250F




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18397719
> 
> 
> I haven't seen Anthem's official price list in some time, and it is not on their web site. Perhaps one of the dealers who follow this thread can repost the latest, official, US MSRP for these two. (MSRP only please.)
> 
> --Bob



I used to own the original D2 and P5. I know the D2v had went up but wasn't to sure about the P5. The P5 used to be $4999.00 MSRP.


----------



## pgiralt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18397719
> 
> 
> I haven't seen Anthem's official price list in some time, and it is not on their web site. Perhaps one of the dealers who follow this thread can repost the latest, official, US MSRP for these two. (MSRP only please.)
> 
> --Bob



I just ordered a D2V a couple of days ago and the MSRP is $7499. According to my dealer, on April 1 the MSRP will be $8499 because Paradigm/Anthem is raising all their prices on April 1.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks for that! We could still use confirmation from one of the Anthem dealers following this thread.


My recollection was that the D2v was already at $7999.


If the price increase you heard about actually comes to pass, that's quite a statement of confidence in the product from Anthem. Most companies would have to lower prices to keep sales up.


Of course overseas customers are already paying quite a bit more. Customers in Europe have been paying the US dollar equivalent of $10-$12K for the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I found an on-line copy of Anthem's price list (MSRP, or FMV as they call it up north) from January of this year. This is Canadian retail pricing, but Anthem has traditionally used the same numbers for both US and Canadian pricing without regard to the exchange rate difference:

http://ambiancetechnologie.com/resou...te+de+prix.pdf 


If there's a more recent change to this, it is in Anthem's password protected Dealers' area on their site.


I've not found anything definitive on-line regarding a possible price increase.

--Bob


----------



## Need4spdnb

The D2v is $7500


The P5 is $7200


Pricing does go up on April 1st (no joke). D2v will be $8500 and the P5 will be $7500.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18395653
> 
> 
> Not Bob,
> 
> 
> Your curve looks very good especially the sub, the low pass filter is at out therefore whatever the setting with the knob will not affect the output, still I would leave it at 180hz.
> 
> 
> I would not force the max frequency adjustment all the way to 20khz. If you feel that you need more high frequency 5 to 8khz. is enough. But that is just my suggestion based on my experience with pro audio calibration.



Yeah, the curve for the sub is the best I've ever seen it now. I'm about to recalculate with some changes to targets that Bob proposed (not remeasuring with the mic again, just recalculating!). One question though to you - you say I don't really need to do 20KHz max frequency and that 5-8KHz would be enough. What harm would there possibly be in going all the way toward the edge of human hearing, the 20KHz level in other words? Wouldn't I want ARC to do as much as it can throughout the entire spectrum of audible sound?


I'm probably missing something basic, but this is a whole new world to me (and great fun I might add!).


Thanks!

Brian


----------



## KX250F




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Need4spdnb* /forum/post/18399718
> 
> 
> The D2v is $7500
> 
> 
> The P5 is $7200
> 
> 
> Pricing does go up on April 1st (no joke). D2v will be $8500 and the P5 will be $7500.




This is dissappointing to say the least. The price increase on the amp in not bad, but 1k more for the D2v is steep. I had my eye on these, but would not need them for another 4-6 months from now. Looks like I will be keeping the Denon AVP-A1HDCI after all.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Bob, the only change I made was your suggestion to up the LS/RS target to 90Hz instead of 65Hz. That seems to have done the trick! But let me know what you think. The LS/RS are indeed ceiling mounted B&W 10 inch round speakers with fairly good baffling behind them to create a solid cavity. Nothing blocking them, just a funky room overall I think.


In any case, here are my updated graphs.


Thanks again!

Brian

 

arc5targets.doc 100.5k . file

 

arc5main1.doc 86.5k . file

 

arc5main2.doc 85k . file


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18400205
> 
> 
> Yeah, the curve for the sub is the best I've ever seen it now. I'm about to recalculate with some changes to targets that Bob proposed (not remeasuring with the mic again, just recalculating!). One question though to you - you say I don't really need to do 20KHz max frequency and that 5-8KHz would be enough. What harm would there possibly be in going all the way toward the edge of human hearing, the 20KHz level in other words? Wouldn't I want ARC to do as much as it can throughout the entire spectrum of audible sound?
> 
> 
> I'm probably missing something basic, but this is a whole new world to me (and great fun I might add!).
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Brian



A flat frequency response is not what you want as the final result will weak bass and a shrill high end. This has to do with sensitivity of our ears to volume and frequency. In fact, most ARC measurements include a room gain factor. Without it, the overall sound will be weak in bass. As I have said my suggestions are made on how I calibrate Pro audio. for a room bigger that 300 person capacity a tapering off from around 2k at a rate of 1dB per octave is advised. For a small room, the attenuation starts at 8khz. You might be wondering why the leveling off starts at 1khz for a big room, that is because of the way reference microphone reacts with a room with more reverberation than a small room with less. Even with Audyssey, a progressive leveling per octave is factored.


In our case we measure a wide seating area that is almost always around or more than 30 degrees from the 1st mic position and a freq response of 20 to 20k is at best taken on axis therefore a natural rolloff is being measured by our mic when it is off axis. Secondly, it seems that we all have a dip that starts at 10 to 14khz from our test mic that might affect the REAL frequency response, that is actually boosting frequencies that are actually flat already.


For me, with respect to my speakers, I am well and good with the default 5khz which is the recommendation of Anthem anyway.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18398787
> 
> 
> Thanks for that! We could still use confirmation from one of the Anthem dealers following this thread.
> 
> 
> My recollection was that the D2v was already at $7999.
> 
> 
> If the price increase you heard about actually comes to pass, that's quite a statement of confidence in the product from Anthem. Most companies would have to lower prices to keep sales up.
> 
> 
> Of course overseas customers are already paying quite a bit more. Customers in Europe have been paying the US dollar equivalent of $10-$12K for the D2v.
> 
> --Bob



This is Paradigm / Anthem - across the board... speakers, subs as well, everything...


Prices are slated to be going up 10%...


glad I got everything I wanted before all this.... those prices are a little steep...


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18400611
> 
> 
> A flat frequency response is not what you want as the final result will weak bass and a shrill high end. This has to do with sensitivity of our ears to volume and frequency. In fact, most ARC measurements include a room gain factor. Without it, the overall sound will be weak in bass. As I have said my suggestions are made on how I calibrate Pro audio. for a room bigger that 300 person capacity a tapering off from around 2k at a rate of 1dB per octave is advised. For a small room, the attenuation starts at 8khz. You might be wondering why the leveling off starts at 1khz for a big room, that is because of the way reference microphone reacts with a room with more reverberation than a small room with less. Even with Audyssey, a progressive leveling per octave is factored.
> 
> 
> In our case we measure a wide seating area that is almost always around or more than 30 degrees from the 1st mic position and a freq response of 20 to 20k is at best taken on axis therefore a natural rolloff is being measured by our mic when it is off axis. Secondly, it seems that we all have a dip that starts at 10 to 14khz from our test mic that might affect the REAL frequency response, that is actually boosting frequencies that are actually flat already.
> 
> 
> For me, with respect to my speakers, I am well and good with the default 5khz which is the recommendation of Anthem anyway.



I think I get it. If you look at my last set of calculated results, the frequency response has certainly not been "flat". Though the calculated line tries to hug the target line as close as possible, there are still plenty of roll-offs along the way. As for Room Gain, your comments make perfect sense and mimic what my ears are telling me. My room gain that ARC calculated was like 2.93 something, almost 3. I am leaving that right where it is, because dialing it down seems to reduce the bass performance in what is a very large, unwieldy room here.


Thanks a ton for the insights, I'd take any add'l comments on my most recent graphs if you have any.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18400498
> 
> 
> Bob, the only change I made was your suggestion to up the LS/RS target to 90Hz instead of 65Hz. That seems to have done the trick! But let me know what you think. The LS/RS are indeed ceiling mounted B&W 10 inch round speakers with fairly good baffling behind them to create a solid cavity. Nothing blocking them, just a funky room overall I think.
> 
> 
> In any case, here are my updated graphs.
> 
> 
> Thanks again!
> 
> Brian



You are very close now. What's left is fine tweaking and your listening analysis to see if you like what Anthem has done with the high frequency correction.


You've got one little wobble in RS at 200Hz and another in Lf and RF at 700Hz that are both just a bit larger than I'd like to see. If you back off Max EQ Frequency, ARC will probably re-assign resources and eliminate those. Try a Calculation at 5KHz to see. If so, you can look for a nice compromise setting that gives you good high frequency correction but still eliminates those wobbles. Note that due to the way the resources are assigned, this can be a bit counter-intuitive at times. E.g., 18KHz and 19KHz may show those wobbles but 18.5KHz eliminates them. So you can play around a bit to see what you get. When you find a candidate setting that looks good, be sure to check ALL the speakers from end to end to make sure something unexpected hasn't cropped up.


Now, only you can decide whether you like letting ARC do the high frequency correction in your setup. In MY setup I like it a lot.


Remember the trick I posted a while back: Even though you set Music "same as" Movie during the Measurements, you can still undo that now for the Calculations. So with the your current set of Measurements you can clear the "same as" check box for Music, put in the 90Hz cutoff for LS/RS you found worked well and set Music to 5KHz and Movie to whatever higher setting you find works best in the Calculation experiments above. (Use ARC's View menu to select between showing the Movie and Music charts to see the result.)


Then Upload that and set up two Source definitions that are identical except one uses Movie and the other uses Music. Be sure the Mode Presets are identical as well so both use the same audio surround modes by default. Now you can A/B compare the difference and see which result your ears really prefer.


NOTE: ARC does nothing different between Movie and Music except for changes you build in yourself, such as the Max EQ Frequency difference we're talking about checking here. So if you hear a difference, it's not because some magic movie-ish or music-ish stuff is happening under the covers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

New "Public Beta" firmware is out for the Oppo BDP-83 and BDP-83SE Blu-ray players this evening. See Oppo's Support page for each player.


I've been using this stuff for a while. Highly recommended.


Not yet out for the BDP-80.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


For those of you using an HTPC with Nvidia graphic adapter and connected to a D2v....

Is your D2v showing as an AVM50v device in the Nvidia control panel?


Thanks


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18403130
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> For those of you using an HTPC with Nvidia graphic adapter and connected to a D2v....
> 
> Is your D2v showing as an AVM50v device in the Nvidia control panel?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I just built a HTPC using the Intel i5-650 chip with an iGPU and it shows AVM50v as the device instead of a D2v.


----------



## 13ege

Hi,

I'm considering to buy a d2v in few weeks, with anthem a2-a5 to use with my paradigms.(Studio 100s, cc690, 4 x adp590s). Do you guys have any other suggestions for power amp, or a2-a5 combo will do fine?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18403660
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm considering to buy a d2v in few weeks, with anthem a2-a5 to use with my paradigms.(Studio 100s, cc690, 4 x adp590s). Do you guys have any other suggestions for power amp, or a2-a5 combe will do fine?



I have the same speakers with the A2 and A5 and they work very well together.

John


----------



## 13ege

thanks John. Will put some pics once i've get them.


btw, I'll also buy a digital music server, either olive 4hd or Logitech Transporter, is there anyone experienced them?


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18392383
> 
> 
> In its default settings, the D2v takes "reference" video input signals and produces "reference" video output signals. If your sources need no help in what they output and your display needs no help in what it does with reference video input then you don't need to fiddle with the default video settings in the D2v.
> 
> 
> If any of your sources has a problem in its output that can not be corrected with controls in the source, then you have the D2v settings in Video Source Adjust to help. If your display has a problem that can not be fixed with its own controls then, again, changes in the D2v settings may help. But you should try to get the display correct, as best you can, with its own controls first. Note that one of the more common display problems is for the display to screw up when fed a particular FORMAT of video, even though it works correctly with some other format. So for example some displays need YCbCr input to work their best while others need RGB. A discovery like this would mean there is a bug in the display, but again, the easiest way to fix it may simply be to take advantage of the fact that the D2v can be set either way and does BOTH correctly.
> 
> 
> EXAMPLE: Some displays clip Blacker than Black and/or Peak White video data in one format but not the other.
> 
> 
> In the "test" V2.08h firmware, Anthem has now added the ability to control the bit size of the video data as well, just in case you have a display which SAYS it accepts "Deep Color" input, but does not, in fact, work very well when fed that.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, Bob. Thank you so much for such detailed answers.

So you say that the D2v's video settings are better used to correct flawed sources. Well, I do think of one. My HTPC. Could I have video settings specific for one source and default for another?

If so, then I could do some calibration for the input used for my HTPC using some calibration BDs.

Can you confirm that?

And one more thing, my EPSON proj does support 12bit Deep Color signals. I checked that when I used my pattern generator while calibrating.

So should I upgrade from 2.08 to the latest beta?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18404414
> 
> 
> Ok, Bob. Thank you so much for such detailed answers.
> 
> So you say that the D2v's video settings are better used to correct flawed sources. Well, I do think of one. My HTPC. Could I have video settings specific for one source and default for another?
> 
> If so, then I could do some calibration for the input used for my HTPC using some calibration BDs.
> 
> Can you confirm that?
> 
> And one more thing, my EPSON proj does support 12bit Deep Color signals. I checked that when I used my pattern generator while calibrating.
> 
> So should I upgrade from 2.08 to the latest beta?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Your current V2.08 already supports 12 bits per component (36 bits per pixel) video input and output. All that "test" V2.08h adds is the ability to force the D2v to output LESS than that even if the display says it will accept the full 36 bits. This can be helpful in cases where the display (or the cabling to the display) isn't actually handling 36 bit properly.


Video Source Adjust > Picture gives you video input adjustment settings remembered separately for each Source. The idea is to set up the output of the D2v to work best with your display (using the display's controls to do as much of that as possible) and then modify the video input settings in the D2v for each Source that still has a problem which can not be fixed in its own controls.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

Hi Bob, I finally got back to "the toys". The last post was #27212 where you gave me some more suggestions. I obviously have that "bass bug" so I ended up setting the test level at -9 and that gave me an ARC 'reading' at about 76 rather than the 85. I lowered the room correction a bit from the 3.945 that arc reads my room at and lowered the cutoff on the 2 rears to 50 from 60. The graphs look OK to me but what do you think? Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/18403158
> 
> 
> I just built a HTPC using the Intel i5-650 chip with an iGPU and it shows AVM50v as the device instead of a D2v.



Maybe Anthem tricked us into thinking we had a D2v when it was only an AVM50


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18404884
> 
> 
> Hi Bob, I finally got back to "the toys". The last post was #27212 where you gave me some more suggestions. I obviously have that "bass bug" so I ended up setting the test level at -9 and that gave me an ARC 'reading' at about 76 rather than the 85. I lowered the room correction a bit from the 3.945 that arc reads my room at and lowered the cutoff on the 2 rears to 50 from 60. The graphs look OK to me but what do you think? Thanks



Looks fine to me except for the glitch at 15KHhz which I believe you've already decided is not real. Enjoy!

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Bob,

when you mention wobbles in our charts, at what point or level do you consider these problematic?

thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18404941
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> when you mention wobbles in our charts, at what point or level do you consider these problematic?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



+/-2dB. Particularly if they extend over a range of frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18404935
> 
> 
> Looks fine to me except for the glitch at 15KHhz which I believe you've already decided is not real. Enjoy!
> 
> --Bob



Bob, Sorry, I don't know what you mean by "(I've) already decided...." ?? I originally set the target at around 18k and you suggested I back it off "so arc had more to work with". I arbitrarily picked 11k . I don't really know enough to be making "informed" decisions about whether or not something is real. I'm relying completely on you.... If you think the 'glitch' at 15khz is not real and nothing to worry about, then so do I...........If there is something I can/should do about it, then I'm all ears. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18405108
> 
> 
> Bob, Sorry, I don't know what you mean by "(I've) already decided...." ?? I originally set the target at around 18k and you suggested I back it off "so arc had more to work with". I arbitrarily picked 11k . I don't really know enough to be making "informed" decisions about whether or not something is real. I'm relying completely on you.... If you think the 'glitch' at 15khz is not real and nothing to worry about, then so do I...........If there is something I can/should do about it, then I'm all ears. Thanks



Apparently I got you confused with someone else who had already decided to back off Max EQ Frequency because a lower setting sounded better to him in his setup.


The glitch at 15KHz is the only problem showing in your charts right now. If you can correct that or at least reduce it by adjusting speaker pointing that would be a good thing. The high frequency correction you have now is fine except for that glitch. If the glitch turns out to be a mic problem however, it would not be good to try to correct it since the data isn't real -- and of course repointing speakers would have no affect on it then. Probably the easiest way to figure that out (assuming speaker repointing isn't getting you anywhere) is to just try it both ways and see which sounds better to you.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

Bob, The rears are all in-wall so they can't be adjusted. The fronts are in cabinets and can only be rotated a little bit.

My earlier set of charts are in post # 27192. Do you see something in my new charts that wasn't in the earlier ones? (You didn't mention the 'glitch' then). The only things that changed betweeen then and now are upgraded HT wiring, a few new power cables and a Hydra. I suppose it's possible that something happened to the mic ???


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18405344
> 
> 
> Bob, The rears are all in-wall so they can't be adjusted. The fronts are in cabinets and can only be rotated a little bit.
> 
> My earlier set of charts are in post # 27192. Do you see something in my new charts that wasn't in the earlier ones? (You didn't mention the 'glitch' then). The only things that changed betweeen then and now are upgraded HT wiring, a few new power cables and a Hydra. I suppose it's possible that something happened to the mic ???



No those dips at 15KHz were in those charts as well, but you were correcting up to 17KHz and so ARC eliminated them.


The lower Max EQ Frequency you are using now definitely works better for the lower frequencies in the Calculated curves. However it is easy to experiment with different values (no need to re-Measure) to see how far up you can push it and still get nice smooth results at the lower frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

OK, Thanks, I'll do some experimenting. Is there a range above or below the target curve that I should try to stay within for it to still be considered "smooth"?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18405493
> 
> 
> OK, Thanks, I'll do some experimenting. Is there a range above or below the target curve that I should try to stay within for it to still be considered "smooth"?



+/- 1dB = Good

+/- 2dB = Bad


But don't get too picky about this if the residual error is limited in frequency range and the solution looks good otherwise.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

OK Did some testing. I went up to 18500 with the Max EQ and a 3db spike showed up in the LF at about 100Hz. I had to drop down to 11000 in order to bring the difference down to 1db. Any ideas why Arc is having such a hard time taming that particular 'spike' ? It seemed to do OK in the RF. Does it have anything to do with the aiming of the speaker or the polarity or phase? Just kind of throwing rocks at a wall here....

Also, even though ARC does a very good job correcting it, I'd like to know why, with the LF and RF, there is such a large difference from 20 to 110Hz between the measured and target graphs? The center speaker is the same kind (Triad in-room gold) and the differences aren't nearly as big. Thanks


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18401089
> 
> 
> You are very close now. What's left is fine tweaking and your listening analysis to see if you like what Anthem has done with the high frequency correction.
> 
> 
> You've got one little wobble in RS at 200Hz and another in Lf and RF at 700Hz that are both just a bit larger than I'd like to see. If you back off Max EQ Frequency, ARC will probably re-assign resources and eliminate those. Try a Calculation at 5KHz to see. If so, you can look for a nice compromise setting that gives you good high frequency correction but still eliminates those wobbles. Note that due to the way the resources are assigned, this can be a bit counter-intuitive at times. E.g., 18KHz and 19KHz may show those wobbles but 18.5KHz eliminates them. So you can play around a bit to see what you get. When you find a candidate setting that looks good, be sure to check ALL the speakers from end to end to make sure something unexpected hasn't cropped up.
> 
> 
> Now, only you can decide whether you like letting ARC do the high frequency correction in your setup. In MY setup I like it a lot.
> 
> 
> Remember the trick I posted a while back: Even though you set Music "same as" Movie during the Measurements, you can still undo that now for the Calculations. So with the your current set of Measurements you can clear the "same as" check box for Music, put in the 90Hz cutoff for LS/RS you found worked well and set Music to 5KHz and Movie to whatever higher setting you find works best in the Calculation experiments above. (Use ARC's View menu to select between showing the Movie and Music charts to see the result.)
> 
> 
> Then Upload that and set up two Source definitions that are identical except one uses Movie and the other uses Music. Be sure the Mode Presets are identical as well so both use the same audio surround modes by default. Now you can A/B compare the difference and see which result your ears really prefer.
> 
> 
> NOTE: ARC does nothing different between Movie and Music except for changes you build in yourself, such as the Max EQ Frequency difference we're talking about checking here. So if you hear a difference, it's not because some magic movie-ish or music-ish stuff is happening under the covers.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, after trying to get better results from lowering the max eq frequency to various levels, I can't seem to get any better results. Anytime I smooth out a tiny bit of the issues at 700Hz in RF/LF, I lose the top end frequency smoothing almost entirely. Ive tried 5KHz, 11, 13, 14, 16, 18, all too much of a compromise. My ears tell me I am so much better off than before with what I have from my "arc5" charts, so I will stick with it I think.


Time to enjoy the new-found sound quality! I got so psyched about it actually that I found myself buying up a bunch of used DVD-A's and SACD's and other higher quality recordings online last nite! I use my old trusty 20-bit DTS CD of Lyle Lovett's Joshua Judges Ruth to test and man does it sound nice now...looking forward to more examples coming soon in the mail!


Bob, after all my travails, can you do me the distinct honor now of giving me those bouncy smily faces? The new D2v is finally in full effect!


Cheers guys.

Brian


----------



## davoe

Well, I finally got around to posting my ARC results. The resulting sound is spectacular, but I've had to back off the sub level from +5dB to +1.5dB in the setup menu. The bass was overwhelming when I listened to music at +5dB (it's uploaded level). I tried forcing the room gain from 3.94 to 3 or lower, but the calculated solution was not as well behaved as it is at 3.94.


Is it ok to back off the sub as I have done or is there a better remedy. Again the sound is terrific.


Thanks,

Dave

 

Targets.doc 96k . file

 

Fronts.doc 83k . file

 

Center;sub.doc 83.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18405719
> 
> 
> Bob, after trying to get better results from lowering the max eq frequency to various levels, I can't seem to get any better results. Anytime I smooth out a tiny bit of the issues at 700Hz in RF/LF, I lose the top end frequency smoothing almost entirely. Ive tried 5KHz, 11, 13, 14, 16, 18, all too much of a compromise. My ears tell me I am so much better off than before with what I have from my "arc5" charts, so I will stick with it I think.
> 
> 
> Time to enjoy the new-found sound quality! I got so psyched about it actually that I found myself buying up a bunch of used DVD-A's and SACD's and other higher quality recordings online last nite! I use my old trusty 20-bit DTS CD of Lyle Lovett's Joshua Judges Ruth to test and man does it sound nice now...looking forward to more examples coming soon in the mail!
> 
> 
> Bob, after all my travails, can you do me the distinct honor now of giving me those bouncy smily faces? The new D2v is finally in full effect!
> 
> 
> Cheers guys.
> 
> Brian



Absolutely, time to enjoy! These guys want to listen too!







































--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18405861
> 
> 
> Well, I finally got around to posting my ARC results. The resulting sound is spectacular, but I've had to back off the sub level from +5dB to +1.5dB in the setup menu. The bass was overwhelming when I listened to music at +5dB (it's uploaded level). I tried forcing the room gain from 3.94 to 3 or lower, but the calculated solution was not as well behaved as it is at 3.94.
> 
> 
> Is it ok to back off the sub as I have done or is there a better remedy. Again the sound is terrific.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave



Having to back off the sub level like that is an indication that something is wrong. Your sub measures OK so it is something else.


First make sure you have Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ ON for each Source definition so that you are actually using your ARC results. Next make sure you don't have any of the "temporary" level adjustments in effect that might be confusing things (see Section 4.6 of the Manual). You can erase ALL such "temporary" settings, all at once by going into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue using the Front Panel.

3) Reload Saved User Settings.


Since the temporary settings are not saved, this resets all of them.


Next go into Setup > Speaker Configuration > Movie and Music and make sure you have Subs = 1 Sub set for both. This setting is required if you use ARC with a Subwoofer.


If these don't lead to an easy fix, I suggest you re-open your ARC results file in ARC's Advanced mode and re-Upload the results. It is possible you accidentally changed some of the Setup menu settings ARC Uploads after your original Upload. Check to see what you've got in Setup after that, and if it looks good make sure you Save User and Installer Settings so that you can't accidentally undo that by reloading from those memories.


NOTE: If you are using the "test" V2.08h firmware, be sure to turn Setup > Source Setup > Dolby Volume OFF for each Source definition so you are not confusing yourself with Dobly Volume's adjustments.


-------------------------------------------


I would not expect your problem to be in the bass. Your problem is in the treble. All of your main speakers are very weak at high frequency, with LF/RF being the worst. It is bad enough that it looks like you may have them wired up incorrectly (high frequency input not connected) or that you have some blown tweeters.


Some speakers have multiple input jacks which must all by connected, usually by cross-connecting them at the back of the speaker.


Play some stereo content with high treble, select Mono All audio mode so that the same thing is sent to all speakers, and put your ear up close to the individual drivers in each speaker to make sure they are all firing.

--Bob


----------



## davoe

I'll try your suggestions. Funny there is no lack of treble in the system. The high end sounds terrific. The speakers are brand new from Focal (L/R/C) with Beryllium tweeters at ear level. I think there maybe an issue with the microphone in that region. As you can see the fall off is pretty much the same with all three speakers. As for hooking them up, they only have two posts each, a pos, and neg. and their phase is correct.


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18403739
> 
> 
> thanks John. Will put some pics once i've get them.
> 
> 
> btw, I'll also buy a digital music server, either olive 4hd or Logitech Transporter, is there anyone experienced them?



I was looking for a "cheap" music server option. I was reading the Olive 4HD thread thinking that it might be an option for me. The Olive with the D2 would be a killer combo.


Anyway, to cut a long story short, I ended up going the M2Tech Hiface route via a laptop. I rip my CD's to 24/96 FLAC (24/96 being the limit of the D2 input) and then play them through the D2. My HP laptop can be connected via HDMI as well for video, if you want, and has a remote that works with any media player. The media players I use all send 24/96 signal to the D2 for decoding.


What a combo! Given this is about as cheap a route you can go, I am very happy with the outcome. To use the cliche: I am listening to certain CD's for the first time. Now I know why Naim exited the CD player business-my el cheapo combo made my modded Roksan sound like a tin can (not quite, but you get the point).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18407326
> 
> 
> I'll try your suggestions. Funny there is no lack of treble in the system. The high end sounds terrific. The speakers are brand new from Focal (L/R/C) with Beryllium tweeters at ear level. I think there maybe an issue with the microphone in that region. As you can see the fall off is pretty much the same with all three speakers. As for hooking them up, they only have two posts each, a pos, and neg. and their phase is correct.



Something is definitely wrong with the treble. It is too deep and over too wide a frequency range to be the type of mic problem folks have been speculating about here.


The problem is above 7KHz. You are 15dB down in LF/RF and almost that much in LS/RS and C. If this is a mic problem, then the mic is basically broken which is hard to reconcile with the way it is working in the mid-range and bass.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruginator* /forum/post/18407550
> 
> 
> I was looking for a "cheap" music server option. I was reading the Olive 4HD thread thinking that it might be an option for me. The Olive with the D2 would be a killer combo.
> 
> 
> Anyway, to cut a long story short, I ended up going the M2Tech Hiface route via a laptop. I rip my CD's to 24/96 FLAC (24/96 being the limit of the D2 input) and then play them through the D2. My HP laptop can be connected via HDMI as well for video, if you want, and has a remote that works with any media player. The media players I use all send 24/96 signal to the D2 for decoding.
> 
> 
> What a combo! Given this is about as cheap a route you can go, I am very happy with the outcome. To use the cliche: I am listening to certain CD's for the first time. Now I know why Naim exited the CD player business-my el cheapo combo made my modded Roksan sound like a tin can (not quite, but you get the point).



Interesting, good input for sure...but are we saying that the D2v can only accept a maximum of 24/96 on a digital input??? I have been considering getting either a Olive 4HD or a Transporter, but I'd love to use the higher input bit rate/sample rate. Can someone confirm? What would be the highest resolution input? The digital AES/XLR thing?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18404477
> 
> 
> Your current V2.08 already supports 12 bits per component (36 bits per pixel) video input and output. All that "test" V2.08h adds is the ability to force the D2v to output LESS than that even if the display says it will accept the full 36 bits. This can be helpful in cases where the display (or the cabling to the display) isn't actually handling 36 bit properly.
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I checked the release notes of v2.08(Nov9) on Anthem's website and they never mentioned the 12-bit color support feature you alluded to above. Is this support in one of the newer beta releases?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18408128
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I checked the release notes of v2.08(Nov9) on Anthem's website and they never mentioned the 12-bit color support feature you alluded to above. Is this support in one of the newer beta releases?



Deep Color support has been part of the D2v and AVM 50v since the beginning.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18408220
> 
> 
> Deep Color support has been part of the D2v and AVM 50v since the beginning.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, I wasn't aware of this. I thought it could support 8-bits only. Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## davoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18407638
> 
> 
> Something is definitely wrong with the treble. It is too deep and over too wide a frequency range to be the type of mic problem folks have been speculating about here.
> 
> 
> The problem is above 7KHz. You are 15dB down in LF/RF and almost that much in LS/RS and C. If this is a mic problem, then the mic is basically broken which is hard to reconcile with the way it is working in the mid-range and bass.
> 
> --Bob



Assuming there's no problem with the mic or the speakers (all 5 of them), what kind of room problems can cause that fall off?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18408322
> 
> 
> Assuming there's no problem with the mic or the speakers (all 5 of them), what kind of room problems can cause that fall off?



There's no room problem that would do that. However, if you are using a custom grill cloth or the like over them, then the cloth or the hardware supporting the cloth could be blocking the output from the tweeters.


Just to put this in perspective, 6dB down is half volume.

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18408123
> 
> 
> Interesting, good input for sure...but are we saying that the D2v can only accept a maximum of 24/96 on a digital input??? I have been considering getting either a Olive 4HD or a Transporter, but I'd love to use the higher input bit rate/sample rate. Can someone confirm? What would be the highest resolution input? The digital AES/XLR thing?



Kruginator is saying the D2 has a 24/96 limitation on input. It gets upsampled inside. I beleive the D2v takes input up to 192.


----------



## jclem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18405522
> 
> 
> OK, BOB, Did some testing. I went up to 18500 with the Max EQ and a 3db spike showed up in the LF at about 100Hz. I had to drop down to 11000 in order to bring the difference down to 1db. Any ideas why Arc is having such a hard time taming that particular 'spike' ? It seemed to do OK in the RF. Does it have anything to do with the aiming of the speaker or the polarity or phase? Just kind of throwing rocks at a wall here....
> 
> 
> Also, even though ARC does a very good job correcting it, I'd like to know why, with the LF and RF, there is such a large difference from 20 to 110Hz between the measured and target graphs? The center speaker is the same kind (Triad in-room gold) and the differences aren't nearly as big. Thanks



I'm including the charts at 11k and 18k so you can see the difference.


----------



## 13ege




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/18408939
> 
> 
> Kruginator is saying the D2 has a 24/96 limitation on input. It gets upsampled inside. I beleive the D2v takes input up to 192.



I'm in the same situation too. Going to buy a d2v soon, and either transporter or olive 4hd. But I didn't know that d2v has 24-96 limitation. Is there really a situation like that??


Once i get them, I'll try both analog and digital connection and see which one's dac will give me a better performance. Since 4hd supports 24-192 it better be d2v supports 24-192 digital input too. Otherwise, I'll have to revise all my plans.


----------



## veneziana

hello to all again,

I don't understand why my sat receiver connected directly to my pioneer kuro (with hdmi) has the same image to the same receiver connected to my Anthem D2V (with HDMI)


I set in Anthem output :


a s-video osd: PAL

b preferrd: HDMI

c resolution at 1920x1080p60

d colr space auto

data YCbCr 4:4:4

letterbox: black

comp2 out: off


THE SCALER WORK WELL WITH THIS SETTING? or doesn't work?

I might change some setting?


thanks

Andrea


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18409182
> 
> 
> I'm in the same situation too. Going to buy a d2v soon, and either transporter or olive 4hd. But I didn't know that d2v has 24-96 limitation. Is there really a situation like that??
> 
> 
> Once i get them, I'll try both analog and digital connection and see which one's dac will give me a better performance. Since 4hd supports 24-192 it better be d2v supports 24-192 digital input too. Otherwise, I'll have to revise all my plans.



It does support 192/24 input. check their website if still unsure. I just checked it and it says 192KHz/24bit ,7.1 channel, PCM input for the D2v. I have used several discs at that rate and the sound is phenomenal. Of course that includes ARC working on the sound as well.

John


----------



## 13ege

Thanks Jayray, i also saw that it says 192-24bit but can't be sure if it's for analog or digital connection. Which connection did you try? I want to use d2v's dacs, I'm pretty sure its dacs are better than olive's, so i need to make a digital connection through coax or optical outputs.


----------



## Kruginator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18410024
> 
> 
> Thanks Jayray, i also saw that it says 192-24bit but can't be sure if it's for analog or digital connection. Which connection did you try? I want to use d2v's dacs, I'm pretty sure its dacs are better than olive's, so i need to make a digital connection through coax or optical outputs.



The D2's DAC inputs are limited to 24/96 while the D2v accepts 24/192. If you plan to use the D2v's DAC's, then it makes better sense financially to not buy the Olive because you are paying for DACs that you are not using.


my intention was to use the D2's DAC's, hence all I needed was a transport - the HP laptop. But off course, you could use any PC you wanted. What I like about the M2Tech Hiface is it is asynchronous and has its own drivers with the result that the sound is pretty good.


What I am intrigued about is: does the D2 (or D2v) reclock the incoming signal? if so, this makes the differentiation between asynchronous vs synchronous options on the USB port redundant.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/18408939
> 
> 
> Kruginator is saying the D2 has a 24/96 limitation on input. It gets upsampled inside. I beleive the D2v takes input up to 192.



That is correct (for HDMI audio). The D2's HDMI limit is up to 5.1 channels at up to 96KHz (24bit). The D2v's HDMI limit is up to 7.1 channels at up to 192KHz (24bit).


Both will upsample whatever they get as input to 192KHz prior to any other digital audio processing (e.g., ARC), and the 192KHz processed audio is what gets sent to the DACs for conversion to analog for output.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18410024
> 
> 
> Thanks Jayray, i also saw that it says 192-24bit but can't be sure if it's for analog or digital connection. Which connection did you try? I want to use d2v's dacs, I'm pretty sure its dacs are better than olive's, so i need to make a digital connection through coax or optical outputs.



Analog connections don't have "sampling rate" or "bit depth". Those are digital audio characteristics. Analog connections have characteristics like bandwidth and dynamic range.


Analog input to the D2 and to the D2v is limited to 5.1 channels. If you allow the analog input to be processed, both the D2 and the D2v will digitize that input at a sampling rate of up to 96KHz. Both will then also upsample that to 192KHz prior to any other processing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veneziana* /forum/post/18409429
> 
> 
> hello to all again,
> 
> I don't understand why my sat receiver connected directly to my pioneer kuro (with hdmi) has the same image to the same receiver connected to my Anthem D2V (with HDMI)
> 
> 
> I set in Anthem output :
> 
> 
> a s-video osd: PAL
> 
> b preferrd: HDMI
> 
> c resolution at 1920x1080p60
> 
> d colr space auto
> 
> data YCbCr 4:4:4
> 
> letterbox: black
> 
> comp2 out: off
> 
> 
> THE SCALER WORK WELL WITH THIS SETTING? or doesn't work?
> 
> I might change some setting?
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> Andrea



What is the resolution of the input program, and is the satellite box doing any de-interlacing or scaling itself? The video processor (scaler) in the D2v is always working for HDMI output, even if the input resolution and format is identical to the output.


"Best" video setup is complicated. For the basics, see "Video Calibration for non ISF Techs" in the Setup section of the collection of post links in the first post of this thread.


If your display is not properly calibrated (its own settings) then whatever quality difference there might be between what the D2v does and what the satellite box or display does without the D2v may be masked by the damage the display is already doing.


If your satellite box is set to do processing, and damages the image, that damage can not be removed by the D2v (or the display).


If your satellite company is compressing, or otherwise damaging the image before they send it to you, that damage also can not be undone by the D2v (or the display).


As for your Video Output settings, typically a PAL display would expect 1080p/50 as its native input rather than /60, but I haven't looked into best settings for a PAL Pioneer Kuro.


All that said, the Kuro has a very good video processor, so it will be harder for you to see the differences between letting it do the work and letting the D2v do the work.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18410627
> 
> 
> That is correct (for HDMI audio). The D2's HDMI limit is up to 5.1 channels at up to 96KHz (24bit). The D2v's HDMI limit is up to 7.1 channels at up to 192KHz (24bit).
> 
> 
> Both will upsample whatever they get as input to 192KHz prior to any other digital audio processing (e.g., ARC), and the 192KHz processed audio is what gets sent to the DACs for conversion to analog for output.
> 
> --Bob



Okay, but most of these new "hi resolution" players/transports do not use HDMI, at least not for the audio output. So, in the case of the Olive box, it can output digital via coax or optical, coax being sent I think at 192Khz/24 bit..so can the D2v accept that in its coax digital inputs or is it limited to 96Khz/24 bit? Also, the Transporter for instance and others have an AES/EBU option for digital output that is highly recommended as the choice for digital output. In that case, what is the D2V limitations via digital AES/EBU?


Thanks as always Bob!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18410982
> 
> 
> Okay, but most of these new "hi resolution" players/transports do not use HDMI, at least not for the audio output. So, in the case of the Olive box, it can output digital via coax or optical, coax being sent I think at 192Khz/24 bit..so can the D2v accept that in its coax digital inputs or is it limited to 96Khz/24 bit? Also, the Transporter for instance and others have an AES/EBU option for digital output that is highly recommended as the choice for digital output. In that case, what is the D2V limitations via digital AES/EBU?
> 
> 
> Thanks as always Bob!



I don't know whether the S/PDIF or AES inputs on the D2v can accept 192KHz, and it doesn't seem to be specified in any of the D2v literature. So you'd best send an email to Anthem tech support for this answer.

--Bob


----------



## 13ege

I've sent an e-mail to them , waiting for answer.


I've just learned that I can't use surround processing with 24/192 recorded 5.1 sound. It's not problem for now since truehd and dts-ma supports 24-96 upto 8 channels but once 24-192 multichannel audio comes out, it can cause problems.


Well I'm some kind of novice about digital media streaming. Since I'll use d2v's dacs, all i need is just a transport, and its dacs is not important. But this doesn't mean all players' digital output performance are all the same, right? (with low jittering etc...) That's why I look for a quality product. For example, from Transporter's specs:


Digital outputs: 15 picoseconds intrinsic jitter (standard deviation), coax, optical, BNC S/PDIF, and balanced AES/EBU


I am currently using my iMac's optical out. But I also want to stream 24-192 recorded songs, I can't do it with my mac since it only supports 24-96. If digital output performance is not important, I'll just look for a media server supporting 24-192 playback.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18411649
> 
> 
> I've sent an e-mail to them , waiting for answer.
> 
> 
> I've just learned that I can't get 7.1 sound from 24/192 recorded 5.1 sound(which means hd sounds i guess.) Even my onkyo 3007 can give 7.1 sound while watching blurays. not good.
> 
> 
> Well I'm some kind of novice about digital media streaming. Since I'll use d2v's dacs, all i need is just a transport, and its dacs is not important. But this doesn't mean all players' digital output performance are all the same, right? (with low jittering etc...) That's why I look for a quality product. For example, from Transporter's specs:
> 
> 
> Digital outputs: 15 picoseconds intrinsic jitter (standard deviation), coax, optical, BNC S/PDIF, and balanced AES/EBU
> 
> 
> I am currently using my iMac's optical out. But I also want to stream 24-192 recorded songs, I can't do it with my mac since it only supports 24-96. If digital output performance is not important, I'll just look for a media server supporting 24-192 playback.



If you are using Dolby PLIIx to give you 7.1 then it will not work since PLIIx cannot do that at the 192/24 rates using DTS MA. Try using PCM, with the source if you can and that can be moved up to 7.1 channels. I had this problem and the engineers at Anthem mentioned this limitation which they really hadn't seen until some of those 192/24 blu-ray music discs came out. These discs offer PCM, DTS MA and PCM 2.0 if I recall so you can switch to PCM and get the full surround.

John


----------



## 13ege

Ok then, I can do it with my oppo bdp83. It supports 192khz lpcm playback. Also there's still time for 24-192 6-8 channels.


What about the quality of digital outputs for media players which support 24-192 playback? Will there be any difference between them or they'll all give the same performance?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18412612
> 
> 
> Ok then, I can do it with my oppo bdp83.



That will work for all 192KHz TrueHD tracks and also for 192KHz DTS-HD MA tracks with LESS than 5.1 channels, but the Oppo BDP-83 can not decode 192KHz DTS-HD MA 5.1 tracks as 192KHz. You'll get 96KHz instead. DTS-HD MA is designed for this to happen automatically. The extension from 96KHz to 192KHz is simply not decoded and applied.


(Unlike TrueHD, DTS HD MA does not support 192KHz for 7.1 channels on Blu-Ray discs, so this Oppo limit is *ONLY* for 5.1 DTS HD MA tracks recorded at 192KHz.)


The D2v, on the other hand, CAN decode 192KHz DTS-HD MA 5.1 tracks. But as you've noted, it can not then raise those to 7.1 speaker output via, say, PLIIx.


So if you want sound created for rear speakers when playing 192KHz DTS-HD MA 5.1 tracks, set the Oppo to decode to LPCM and use PLIIx in the D2v on the resulting 5.1 96KHz input. If you would prefer to get the full 192KHz, use bitstream output from the Oppo and live with the fact that the D2v will only output that to 5.1 speakers.


Fun with processor limits....

--Bob


----------



## 13ege

Great explication Bob, thanks a lot.

Any ideas about media servers' digital output performance? I'll grab one which supports 2-channel 24-192 playback if their digital output performance is same for all. Otherwise, I'll continue my to look for the best I can get.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18413362
> 
> 
> Great explication Bob, thanks a lot.
> 
> Any ideas about media servers' digital output performance? I'll grab one which supports 2-channel 24-192 playback if their digital output performance is same for all. Otherwise, I'll continue my to look for the best I can get.



Sorry, I don't have any info on media server quality.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18410982
> 
> 
> So, in the case of the Olive box, it can output *digital via coax or optical, coax being sent I think at 192Khz/24 bit*..so can the *D2v accept that in its coax digital inputs or is it limited to 96Khz/24 bit?* Also, the Transporter for instance and others have an AES/EBU option for digital output that is highly recommended as the choice for digital output. In that case, what is the D2V limitations via digital AES/EBU?
> 
> Thanks as always Bob!



I'm not Bob, but SPDIF can handle 20 or optionally 24-bit but it is limited to a *total* of 96Khz so you're limited to 2 channels at this spec.

SPDIF does not have the bandwidth the pass any of the lossless codecs in multi-channel.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/18413479
> 
> 
> I'm not Bob, but SPDIF can handle 20 or optionally 24-bit but it is limited to a *total* of 96Khz so you're limited to 2 channels at this spec.
> 
> SPDIF does not have the bandwidth the pass any of the lossless codecs in multi-channel.



Milt, good info, thank you. Yeah, so a typical "media server" serving to the D2v is going to limit the usable output to the DAC at effectively 96KHz/24 bit, just because AES/EBU and SPDIF are the limiting factors there. The D2V will upsample that to 192/24 before d/a conversion, but that's not the same as preserving the input depth/width to begin with.


I'm being picky now, but it has gotten me started looking at something like the PS Audio Perfect Wave DAC, which will indeed take in signals from high rez files, like the Reference Recordings HRx wav files and others, and preserve up to 192KHz/24 bit quality and perform excellent d/a and output via balanced analog XLR or whatever. I had a long talk with the PS Audio folks today actually, and the upcoming network bridge card for the Perfect Wave DAC makes that product a very interesting possibility in my system.


I really believe that we are just at the beginning of a larger movement toward file-based high resolution audio and video, and away from discs that spin. Sad in some ways, but I see this trend growing considerably in the coming years. These questions of how best to stream from network attached storage for instance and present media at quality levels as high or higher than physical optical media are going to be the focus of many a forum thread me thinks 


Thanks again,

Brian


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18405861
> 
> 
> Well, I finally got around to posting my ARC results. The resulting sound is spectacular, but I've had to back off the sub level from +5dB to +1.5dB in the setup menu. The bass was overwhelming when I listened to music at +5dB (it's uploaded level). I tried forcing the room gain from 3.94 to 3 or lower, but the calculated solution was not as well behaved as it is at 3.94.
> 
> 
> Is it ok to back off the sub as I have done or is there a better remedy. Again the sound is terrific.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave



With regards to the sub, I would increase the level a notch or two at the back of the sub and lower the sub level on the D2 and try measurements a gain. It seems your measurement mic is faulty because the high frequency rolls off very steeply from above 6k or the tweeter region. Beryllium tweeters go up to 50khz and a roll off like yours is unlikely.


I would send the ARC file to Anthem if I were you with all the pertinent info on youe equipments and seating and mic measurement points.


Alvin


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18413634
> 
> 
> Milt, good info, thank you. Yeah, so a typical "media server" serving to the D2v is going to limit the usable output to the DAC at effectively 96KHz/24 bit, just because AES/EBU and SPDIF are the limiting factors there. The D2V will upsample that to 192/24 before d/a conversion, but that's not the same as preserving the input depth/width to begin with.
> 
> 
> I'm being picky now, but it has gotten me started looking at something like the PS Audio Perfect Wave DAC, which will indeed take in signals from high rez files, like the Reference Recordings HRx wav files and others, and preserve up to 192KHz/24 bit quality and perform excellent d/a and output via balanced analog XLR or whatever. I had a long talk with the PS Audio folks today actually, and the upcoming network bridge card for the Perfect Wave DAC makes that product a very interesting possibility in my system.
> 
> 
> I really believe that we are just at the beginning of a larger movement toward file-based high resolution audio and video, and away from discs that spin. Sad in some ways, but I see this trend growing considerably in the coming years. These questions of how best to stream from network attached storage for instance and present media at quality levels as high or higher than physical optical media are going to be the focus of many a forum thread me thinks
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Brian



The PWD is a beautiful piece of equipment. I have had one since the beta launch of the device and can tell you that it is my preferred DAC for all 2 channel music. When I use it, I bypass my AVM-50. This means no ARC, but it is so much better than the AVM-50 with ARC that I don't mind...


Ed


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/18415082
> 
> 
> The PWD is a beautiful piece of equipment. I have had one since the beta launch of the device and can tell you that it is my preferred DAC for all 2 channel music. When I use it, I bypass my AVM-50. This means no ARC, but it is so much better than the AVM-50 with ARC that I don't mind...
> 
> 
> Ed



Interesting indeed. Would be curious, replacing the AVM-50 with a D2v, whether the difference is still that obvious. I am hesitant to introduce another point of D/A conversion in my system, but I'll admit this PWD could possibly up the ante. There is also the possibility, however jaded and crazy this sounds, of taking the PWD's analog XLR outputs, and putting them thru the 2-channel XLR input on the D2V as "analog direct"...or more crazy still, running them that way and changing to Analog-DSP mode, introducing additonal A/D and D/A conversion, but also allowing ARC to do its thing. Many more extra steps there, and perhaps it would degrade the quality provided by the PWD itself, but I'd love to hear the different options and see how they play out.


Thanks for the input Ed!

Brian


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18413264
> 
> 
> That will work for all 192KHz TrueHD tracks and also for 192KHz DTS-HD MA tracks with LESS than 5.1 channels, but the Oppo BDP-83 can not decode 192KHz DTS-HD MA 5.1 tracks as 192KHz. You'll get 96KHz instead. DTS-HD MA is designed for this to happen automatically. The extension from 96KHz to 192KHz is simply not decoded and applied.
> 
> 
> (Unlike TrueHD, DTS HD MA does not support 192KHz for 7.1 channels on Blu-Ray discs, so this Oppo limit is *ONLY* for 5.1 DTS HD MA tracks recorded at 192KHz.)
> 
> 
> The D2v, on the other hand, CAN decode 192KHz DTS-HD MA 5.1 tracks. But as you've noted, it can not then raise those to 7.1 speaker output via, say, PLIIx.
> 
> 
> So if you want sound created for rear speakers when playing 192KHz DTS-HD MA 5.1 tracks, set the Oppo to decode to LPCM and use PLIIx in the D2v on the resulting 5.1 96KHz input. If you would prefer to get the full 192KHz, use bitstream output from the Oppo and live with the fact that the D2v will only output that to 5.1 speakers.
> 
> 
> Fun with processor limits....
> 
> --Bob



What happen if you use THX Cinema 7.1?

Thanks


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18415101
> 
> 
> Interesting indeed. Would be curious, replacing the AVM-50 with a D2v, whether the difference is still that obvious. I am hesitant to introduce another point of D/A conversion in my system, but I'll admit this PWD could possibly up the ante. There is also the possibility, however jaded and crazy this sounds, of taking the PWD's analog XLR outputs, and putting them thru the 2-channel XLR input on the D2V as "analog direct"...or more crazy still, running them that way and changing to Analog-DSP mode, introducing additonal A/D and D/A conversion, but also allowing ARC to do its thing. Many more extra steps there, and perhaps it would degrade the quality provided by the PWD itself, but I'd love to hear the different options and see how they play out.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input Ed!
> 
> Brian



The PWD is phenomenal. It manages to make regular PCM CDs sound more like high res audio. You can up-sample thru the DAC, but with a good DAS, up-sampling does not really make things sound any better. This is part of the reason that I got rid of my AVM-50 for dedicated 2 channel music. As much as I love my AVM-50 (w/ARC) for multi-channel audio, it just can not compete with the PWD in a 2 channel system.


I don't care if you have a D2v or an AVM-50. Their pre-amp section and 2 channel DACs can not compare to the PWD.


I am waiting patiently for the Bridge to turn the PWD into a media system capable of streaming high res music from a media server. When this is released, I will get rid of my HTPC for audio enjoyment.


Anyone that prefers simulated multi-channel music from 2 channel music has not herd music on the PWD with a well set up front set of speakers...



Ed


----------



## davoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18413668
> 
> 
> With regards to the sub, I would increase the level a notch or two at the back of the sub and lower the sub level on the D2 and try measurements a gain. It seems your measurement mic is faulty because the high frequency rolls off very steeply from above 6k or the tweeter region. Beryllium tweeters go up to 50khz and a roll off like yours is unlikely.
> 
> 
> I would send the ARC file to Anthem if I were you with all the pertinent info on youe equipments and seating and mic measurement points.
> 
> 
> Alvin



Good suggestion. I cranked up the Sub and ran ARC again. Sub response has never been better. I did show Anthem my ARC file and they confirmed that the mic was performing fine in the below 5khZ region. I agree with you that at the higher frequencies, the mic must be errant in it's measurements. My brand new Focal 1038 Be surely have better response that what the plots illustrate, especially when you consider that the mic was precisely at the tweeters' level. They offered to send me a new mic, but since I don't trust any corrections done higher than 5k it would be academic.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18417002
> 
> 
> Good suggestion. I cranked up the Sub and ran ARC again. Sub response has never been better. I did show Anthem my ARC file and they confirmed that the mic was performing fine in the below 5khZ region. I agree with you that at the higher frequencies, the mic must be errant in it's measurements. My brand new Focal 1038 Be surely have better response that what the plots illustrate, especially when you consider that the mic was precisely at the tweeters' level. They offered to send me a new mic, but since I don't trust any corrections done higher than 5k it would be academic.



I think you should get the new mic if for no other reason than to confirm it really is a mic problem. If the mic is broken above 5KHz, I wouldn't trust it to continue working properly below 5KHz.


And again, if things are working properly there should be no need to adjust the sub volume trim that ARC has Uploaded. Particularly for music. You don't have the type of dynamics in music that are present in movie tracks.


I realize you like the sound you are getting now, but something is WRONG and it is worth trying to resolve that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18416609
> 
> 
> What happen if you use THX Cinema 7.1?
> 
> Thanks



The THX 7.1 modes are simply additional THX post processing built on top of PLIIx. I.e., it is PLIIx which is doing the expansion from 5.1 input to channels to 7.1 output speakers. So they will be subject to the same processor limit as PLIIx.

--Bob


----------



## davoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18417431
> 
> 
> I think you should get the new mic if for no other reason than to confirm it really is a mic problem. If the mic is broken above 5KHz, I wouldn't trust it to continue working properly below 5KHz.
> 
> 
> And again, if things are working properly there should be no need to adjust the sub volume trim that ARC has Uploaded. Particularly for music. You don't have the type of dynamics in music that are present in movie tracks.
> 
> 
> I realize you like the sound you are getting now, but something is WRONG and it is worth trying to resolve that.
> 
> --Bob



Actually, since turning up the sub for a new ARC run, I have now have a much improved flat bass response. I've now left all the levels as uploaded.


I am having them send me a new mic and I'll report back here what I find. Interesting though, the sample ARC plot on the Anthem website shows the same rolling off after 5kHz and bottom around 15kHz as mine show, just a lower amplitude. I'm sure I'll find it's mic error out there.
http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...s/D2v/D2v.html


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18409126
> 
> 
> I'm including the charts at 11k and 18k so you can see the difference.



The extra residual error in LF at 100Hz in your 18KHz solution is just an artifact of ARC moving resources around to add the correction higher up. ARC's problem with LF is that the Measured curve peaks more sharply there for LF than RF and so it gets some overshoot in the correction.


LF and RF are both hot in the bass. I don't know if they have any adjustment for bass output (e.g., a bass port that can be opened/closed) but if so, that would be worth adjusting. Failing that, what is likely happening is that they are coupling to the walls/corner behind them.


My guess would be the walls/corner behind them are different on the two sides, and thus the difference in Measured response.


Some repositioning experiments with LF/RF may help reduce the Measured bass they are producing. Try moving them further out from the walls/corner behind them. (There's also a good chance that bass traps in the corners behind them will help.)


Another possibility is to adjust the "cutoff" (and thus the crossover) for LF/RF. Lowering the cutoff will tell ARC to use more of that energy LF/RF are producing down there. I suspect a modest adjustment of cutoff for LF/RF will let you use a higher Max EQ Frequency without the resulting residual error. I think you could safely go down as far as 40Hz for LF/RF. Possibly even 30Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18417482
> 
> 
> Actually, since turning up the sub for a new ARC run, I have now have a much improved flat bass response. I've now left all the levels as uploaded.
> 
> 
> I am having them send me a new mic and I'll report back here what I find. Interesting though, the sample ARC plot on the Anthem website shows the same rolling off after 5kHz and bottom around 15kHz as mine show, just a lower amplitude. I'm sure I'll find it's mic error out there.
> http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/P...s/D2v/D2v.html



Don't forget you'll need to put the new mic's calibration file in the folder with the installed ARC V2.4 (in Windows > Program Files). If the calibration file doesn't come with the replacement mic, Anthem tech support can email it to you.


[ETA: If you leave the old calibration file in there as well, ARC will ask you which mic you are using. ARC can tell you have an ARC mic plugged in, but it can't tell WHICH ARC mic. You need to specify the mic you are actually using to get valid results.]


You may still be left with some roll off up there. Speaker pointing issues, grill material and such can all cause some roll off. But the magnitude of the roll off you are showing right now is beyond that. In any event, you've got a solution that's working now, and we'll see what you get when the new mic shows up.

--Bob


----------



## jclem

Excellent, Bob, Thanks, It looks like I will have to resort to playing with the cutoffs a bit, because my front speakers are inside cabinetry and the only 'adjusting' that can be done is a slight rotation one way or the other. (Also, the inside of the cabinets are lined with foam.) I attached a picture to show you the setup. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18417708
> 
> 
> Excellent, Bob, Thanks, It looks like I will have to resort to playing with the cutoffs a bit, because my front speakers are inside cabinetry and the only 'adjusting' that can be done is a slight rotation one way or the other. (Also, the inside of the cabinets are lined with foam.) I attached a picture to show you the setup. Thanks again.



From the photo, it makes sense that LF would not get as much boundary gain in the low, subsonic bass as RF due to the shelves behind it on the left (as compared to RF in a corner). That probably explains the difference between LF and RF bass Measured response.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18413634
> 
> 
> Milt, good info, thank you. Yeah, so a typical "media server" serving to the D2v is going to limit the usable output to the DAC at effectively 96KHz/24 bit, just because AES/EBU and SPDIF are the limiting factors there. The D2V will upsample that to 192/24 before d/a conversion, but that's not the same as preserving the input depth/width to begin with.
> 
> 
> I'm being picky now, but it has gotten me started looking at something like the PS Audio Perfect Wave DAC, which will indeed take in signals from high rez files, like the Reference Recordings HRx wav files and others, and preserve up to 192KHz/24 bit quality and perform excellent d/a and output via balanced analog XLR or whatever. I had a long talk with the PS Audio folks today actually, and the upcoming network bridge card for the Perfect Wave DAC makes that product a very interesting possibility in my system.
> 
> 
> I really believe that we are just at the beginning of a larger movement toward file-based high resolution audio and video, and away from discs that spin. Sad in some ways, but I see this trend growing considerably in the coming years. These questions of how best to stream from network attached storage for instance and present media at quality levels as high or higher than physical optical media are going to be the focus of many a forum thread me thinks
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Brian



Brian


What function will the network bridge card provide ?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18415101
> 
> 
> Interesting indeed. Would be curious, replacing the AVM-50 with a D2v, whether the difference is still that obvious. I am hesitant to introduce another point of D/A conversion in my system, but I'll admit this PWD could possibly up the ante. There is also the possibility, however jaded and crazy this sounds, of taking the PWD's analog XLR outputs, and putting them thru the 2-channel XLR input on the D2V as "analog direct"...or more crazy still, running them that way and changing to Analog-DSP mode, introducing additonal A/D and D/A conversion, but also allowing ARC to do its thing. Many more extra steps there, and perhaps it would degrade the quality provided by the PWD itself, but I'd love to hear the different options and see how they play out.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input Ed!
> 
> Brian



My experience using a Weiss Minerva DAC is to use the Anthem analog direct.

It does sound better than the Anthem using Analog DSP


----------



## jclem

Bob, I used your suggestions as you can see from the included Targets page. Arc really smoothed out the LF and RF issues. The other speakers look relatively smooth to me (and my untrained eye). The sub has new 'blip' that I guess isn't too bad. Did I do OK? I changed several things on the targets page. Did I go too far or do any harm? Thanks again for all your help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18418470
> 
> 
> Bob, I used your suggestions as you can see from the included Targets page. Arc really smoothed out the LF and RF issues. The other speakers look relatively smooth to me (and my untrained eye). The sub has new 'blip' that I guess isn't too bad. Did I do OK? I changed several things on the targets page. Did I go too far or do any harm? Thanks again for all your help.



Very nice! You should probably spend some time enjoying this.


If you are going to use Music as a separate configuration, don't forget to transfer the settings from the Movie side to the Music side as well. You can use the View menu to select the Music charts to see those results.


If you spent some more time tweaking Room Gain (small amounts) you could probably get rid of that little blip in the sub -- checking the other speaker curves as well to make sure something hasn't gone wrong there. But really that blip is small enough and isolated enough in frequency range that I think you could just as well ignore it.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Bob,


I am thinking of setting the output resolution to my CRT display at 1366x768p/60. The DV2 manual, on page19, under the "Other" column states "DVI-in required". Does it mean HDMI connection to the display cannot be used? I don't see any DVI connection on the D2.


Thanks

Ben


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jclem* /forum/post/18404884
> 
> 
> Hi Bob, I finally got back to "the toys". The last post was #27212 where you gave me some more suggestions. I obviously have that "bass bug" so I ended up setting the test level at -9 and that gave me an ARC 'reading' at about 76 rather than the 85. I lowered the room correction a bit from the 3.945 that arc reads my room at and lowered the cutoff on the 2 rears to 50 from 60. The graphs look OK to me but what do you think? Thanks



Hi Jclem,


What type of front speakers you are, your charts are very close with mine. My fronts are Focal Electra Be 1037. The bass port is directed toward the floor, which can be an explanation why I have the boost in lower frequencies.

Thanks


----------



## mkaye

i loaded 2.08h and now i have audio dropouts on the STB every minute or so (not repeatable when i skip back)

is it time to resign & connect it via component?

or is there something i missed in setting it up?


mark



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18361773
> 
> 
> new user D2v w/2.08
> 
> i am losing audio when switching between STB & Network Media Tank (both HDMI)
> 
> time to get latest beta software??
> 
> 
> mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18420929
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I am thinking of setting the output resolution to my CRT display at 1366x768p/60. The DV2 manual, on page19, under the "Other" column states "DVI-in required". Does it mean HDMI connection to the display cannot be used? I don't see any DVI connection on the D2.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ben



They are talking about the input connection on the display. An HDMI to DVI cable from the Anthem to the display is what you would use (along with a separate audio connection if you want to use speakers built into the display).


I believe all that comment means is that displays that have an HDMI input, instead of a DVI input, may not accept 768p as a valid input format even if that happens to be the native resolution of the display. Quite a few 768p displays won't actually accept 768p as valid input. Check the owner's manual for your display.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18421013
> 
> 
> i loaded 2.08h and now i have audio dropouts on the STB every minute or so (not repeatable when i skip back)
> 
> is it time to resign & connect it via component?
> 
> or is there something i missed in setting it up?
> 
> 
> mark



I think you've got an HDMI connection problem. It could be a faulty output on your STB, a faulty input on the Anthem, or HDMI cables that are not up to the bandwidth you are trying to put through them.


All of this is likely exacerbated by bad HDMI code in your STB which is simply not handling the situation very well.


Component video and Optical audio would get you around the problem of course.


As to isolating it, if you rent your STB, see if you can swap it out for a replacement. Check that Setup > Video Output > HDMI Data is a specific data format to the display (usually YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of Auto. Check that Setup > Source Setup > Auto Dig is OFF for the STB input definition. Check that Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock is OFF while viewing the STB.


Then try setting your Video Output resolution to 1080i instead of 1080p and lowering the Output bit size to 8-bit. If the STB works better when using these two temporary settings to the display then that suggests your cabling to the display needs to be upgraded.


If still no luck, give Anthem tech support a call and see if they know anything about your particular model of STB.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/18418242
> 
> 
> Brian
> 
> 
> What function will the network bridge card provide ?



Stew, the Bridge will be a 500 dollar list price add-on card that mounts within the PWD that allows you to turn the PWD into a media system capable of streaming high res music from a media server. So if you're like me and have loads of low and high rez flac files for instance on a network attached storage device (NAS), you could interact with them and play them back via the PWD (and indeed with an iPhone/Touch app that they are releasing also). The problem I have with my old Olive Symphony is that it will only handle 16 bit/44.1KHz flac files, not the high rez stuff. I also hear nothing but amazing results with the DAC and native processing of the PWD itself, which may be better results than the DACs in the D2/AVM's.


The proof is in the listening I suppose, wish I could test one for a while.

Brian


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18421703
> 
> 
> They are talking about the input connection on the display. An HDMI to DVI cable from the Anthem to the display is what you would use (along with a separate audio connection if you want to use speakers built into the display).
> 
> 
> I believe all that comment means is that displays that have an HDMI input, instead of a DVI input, may not accept 768p as a valid input format even if that happens to be the native resolution of the display. Quite a few 768p displays won't actually accept 768p as valid input. Check the owner's manual for your display.
> 
> --Bob



Also keep in mind that CRTs don't really have a "native rate", depending on the display if you raise the resolution it may go beyond the resolving power of your tubes and soften the picture. Now if the display has a built in scaler the scaler will likely have a "native rate" or more correctly a resolution it converts everything to. In the case of older CRT rear projectors this is often fairly low such as 540P in older RPTVs. Ideally if you have a scaler built in you would want to match its output to minimize anything it does to the signal.


----------



## pgiralt

I have a D2V on order and was wondering about how I will go about the calibration when it comes in. I currently have two JL Audio f113 subs which have their own auto calibration mic/system that works pretty well. I'm thinking that I should disable the subs' calibration features and then calibrate the system using ARC. Would there be any advantage to using JL's calibration feature first, then running ARC on top of that? I guess I can try both to see which one works better, but was wondering if anyone had any experience with either way.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18421703
> 
> 
> They are talking about the input connection on the display. An HDMI to DVI cable from the Anthem to the display is what you would use (along with a separate audio connection if you want to use speakers built into the display).
> 
> 
> I believe all that comment means is that displays that have an HDMI input, instead of a DVI input, may not accept 768p as a valid input format even if that happens to be the native resolution of the display. Quite a few 768p displays won't actually accept 768p as valid input. Check the owner's manual for your display.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob, for clarifying.


I may be wrong here, but I seem to remember you use a custom resolution for your display. So you're using a DVI input?


Ben


----------



## 13ege




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18421847
> 
> 
> So if you're like me and have loads of low and high rez flac files for instance on a network attached storage device (NAS), you could interact with them and play them back via the PWD (and indeed with an iPhone/Touch app that they are releasing also).
> 
> 
> Brian



Is it possible to do the same thing with a pc/mac, managing and playing songs, once bridge comes out?


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18422845
> 
> 
> Is it possible to do the same thing with a pc/mac, managing and playing songs, once bridge comes out?



You need a media server that is capable of speaking the uPnP protocol...there should be many choices for that...in fact, Windows 7 with media player might actually support uPnP by default, not sure though. otherwise, the old twonky server on a windows machine would do it, its a freebie server that can be loaded on your existing windows machine. It speaks uPnP. You should have plenty of choices on both mac/pc in fact. It just happens that my NAS speaks uPnP, as many do now, and that's where my greatest drive redundancy is, so the NAS has always been my preferred storage/server point for all high quality flac music files.


Hope that helps,

Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Okay, this one is weird. I just found a nasty little problem in my system and could use some help.


I use a Meridian G08 cd player with analog XLR into the 2-channel XLR inputs on the D2V. I've used it this way for about 5 years, dating way back to the same setup with my old original D2. It worked no problem for years, but I always used "Analog Direct" for the 2-channel input on the D2 and thus far on the D2V. No problem, sound is very respectable, good stuff all the way around.


Well, now that I have improved my sound overall with ARC calibration, I wanted to leverage that for the 2-channel input from the Meridian CD player as well. So I changed for the first time ever to Analog-DSP, and this is where the problem appears. The sound is all screwed up when the Source setup is set for Analog-DSP from the 2-channel input. Basically, what happens is I get very badly muddied high frequencies out of what appears to be only the Right Front channel - almost like the sound of over-modulation, the fuzziness of highs are really bad. When I switch the source setup right back to Analog Direct, making no other changes, the sound goes back to perfect clarity (though without benefits of ARC of course). Now, I originally thought it might be my Right front speaker, so I used other sources with demanding material and placed all the sound through that speaker, and everything is fine, again, perfect clarity. So, its not the speaker (phew!). So, the question is is the problem the Meridian CD player's analog XLR output level or something? If it were that though, why would Analog Direct sound perfect all these years from it and still today? Why does the problem only manifest itself when I choose Analog-DSP for the 2-channel input?


Weird one guys, but there is a 12-pack waiting here in Mass. for the first guy to figure it out with me  Frustrating, because I really do want to use Analog-DSP to take advantage of the ARC stuff, unless you guys tell me I'm crazy to want that.


Thanks as always for the assist,

Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18423326
> 
> 
> Okay, this one is weird. I just found a nasty little problem in my system and could use some help.
> 
> 
> I use a Meridian G08 cd player with analog XLR into the 2-channel XLR inputs on the D2V. I've used it this way for about 5 years, dating way back to the same setup with my old original D2. It worked no problem for years, but I always used "Analog Direct" for the 2-channel input on the D2 and thus far on the D2V. No problem, sound is very respectable, good stuff all the way around.
> 
> 
> Well, now that I have improved my sound overall with ARC calibration, I wanted to leverage that for the 2-channel input from the Meridian CD player as well. So I changed for the first time ever to Analog-DSP, and this is where the problem appears. The sound is all screwed up when the Source setup is set for Analog-DSP from the 2-channel input. Basically, what happens is I get very badly muddied high frequencies out of what appears to be only the Right Front channel - almost like the sound of over-modulation, the fuzziness of highs are really bad. When I switch the source setup right back to Analog Direct, making no other changes, the sound goes back to perfect clarity (though without benefits of ARC of course). Now, I originally thought it might be my Right front speaker, so I used other sources with demanding material and placed all the sound through that speaker, and everything is fine, again, perfect clarity. So, its not the speaker (phew!). So, the question is is the problem the Meridian CD player's analog XLR output level or something? If it were that though, why would Analog Direct sound perfect all these years from it and still today? Why does the problem only manifest itself when I choose Analog-DSP for the 2-channel input?
> 
> 
> Weird one guys, but there is a 12-pack waiting here in Mass. for the first guy to figure it out with me  Frustrating, because I really do want to use Analog-DSP to take advantage of the ARC stuff, unless you guys tell me I'm crazy to want that.
> 
> 
> Thanks as always for the assist,
> 
> Brian



In Setup > ADC set 2-Ch ANALOG-DSP to 96KHz. This is the sampling rate for digitizing the analog input.


In Setup > Analog Inputs Levels go to the line for the Source that you have set to use the 2-CH input and adjust the analog input level so that you are not clipping (i.e., play content and watch the peak level meter that will be displayed on screen).


If that doesn't fix it, try an RCA connection to see if if fails that way as well. I suppose it is possible you have a fault in the analog input digitizer circuit.


Since you are only hearing the problem in the right channel you can also try swapping the L/R input plugs. If the problem STAYS in the right channel then you know there's something screwy going on with the digitizer -- call Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18423326
> 
> 
> The sound is all screwed up when the Source setup is set for Analog-DSP from the 2-channel input. Basically, what happens is I get very badly muddied high frequencies out of what appears to be only the Right Front channel - almost like the sound of over-modulation, the fuzziness of highs are really bad.



Brian, time for some investigation.


Does the poor sound remain constant even as the audio level fades down at the end of a song--or does the sound clear up? If it clears up as it gets quieter, it may be an overload of the A-D. Could try reducing the output of the Meridian--if that's an option, or reducing the input sensitivity of that analog input in the D2 setup.


If the sound remains fuzzy all the time, do you have any other 2-ch analog sources that you can try, especially RCA type? Like from the BD player or even an iPod? If these sound fine, the A-D converters appear to be OK. If not...


Assuming they are OK, then it might be a DC offset on the Meridian output or in the D2's balanced input converter. This would be rare, but I'm running out of ideas, and could really use a beer.


D'oh! Looks like Bob got the beer before me!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18422597
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob, for clarifying.
> 
> 
> I may be wrong here, but I seem to remember you use a custom resolution for your display. So you're using a DVI input?
> 
> 
> Ben



My plasma is a DVI device with a native resolution of 1366x768p. However it does not accept that as an input resolution. What it does accept is 1360x768p and that's what I'm using. With that input, my plasma leaves a 3 pixel column unused on each side (i.e., it doesn't scale that input up to 1366). 1360x768p is a standard resolution available in the Anthem Setup > Video Output menu.


I also need to use "inverted" HDMI Sync to get that to work on my plasma.


[There are additional "standard" resolutions available if you use the Live Video Settings Editor utility. You select one from the list and Upload it into the Anthem as your "Custom" video output choice now available in Setup > Video Output. So not really "custom" since it is predefined, just used that way. LVSE also allows you to define COMPLETELY custom video timings -- ALL the parameters -- and Upload that set of video timing parameters as your "Custom" choice in the Setup > Video Output menu. But it's been quite some time since folks here had to do that. Some older, Panasonic 768p displays needed completely custom timings for 768p input.]


Now 1360:768 is not precisely equal to 16:9. It turns out that 1360:765 = 16:9. So for best video quality I also use Video Source Adjust > Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box. When fed 16:9 input that means the Anthem adds thin letter box bars top and bottom (2 on the top and 1 on the bottom) to make a live video area of 1360:765, or precisely 16:9, which gets pixel mapped into my panel without additional scaling -- just leaving a thin black pixel strip around all 4 sides.

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645

I assume you did remember to turn ARC on for the CD input.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pgiralt* /forum/post/18422398
> 
> 
> I have a D2V on order and was wondering about how I will go about the calibration when it comes in. I currently have two JL Audio f113 subs which have their own auto calibration mic/system that works pretty well. I'm thinking that I should disable the subs' calibration features and then calibrate the system using ARC. Would there be any advantage to using JL's calibration feature first, then running ARC on top of that? I guess I can try both to see which one works better, but was wondering if anyone had any experience with either way.



My recommendation would be to try it first with ARC alone. If ARC's solution is good then you have eliminated one processing step (the sub's own EQ).


If you run into problems doing it with ARC alone, then yes, set up the EQ for the subs and run ARC on top of that.


Note that either way you will need to level balance the two subs and also set their Polarity/Phase. ARC can't do that for you. With one sub powered at a time, and with Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level set for 75dB, scroll down to a subwoofer line, leave that line at 0dB and adjust the volume knob on each sub in turn to yield 72dB (not 75). When played together, they will yield roughly 75dB (and ARC will refine the volume trim from there).


Similarly, with one sub powered at a time, adjust the sub's internal controls for Polarity and Phase to best match with the LF speaker. When both subs are in proper phase with LF then they are also in proper phase with each other.


Both of these steps need to be done BEFORE you Measure for ARC.


Also make sure each sub's internal crossover is either disabled or cranked up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. And if the sub has a subsonic filter (rolls off lowest frequencies -- sometimes labeled as an adjustment for sub too close to wall) disable that as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/18423521
> 
> 
> I assume you did remember to turn ARC on for the CD input.



^^^What he said. Check for


Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON


--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18423538
> 
> 
> ^^^What he said. Check for
> 
> 
> Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = ON
> 
> 
> --Bob



Yes good friends, I did indeed remember to have RoomEQ = on. I'm foolish sometimes, but not that foolish 


I have to edit my previous problem report and say that the muddiness is in both the right and left front channels equally, having now tested with moving the Balance all the way left and then all the way right. Both are equally bad. What I have done is re-upload ARC settings, but that didn't fix it.


I'm now going to try Bob's recommendation of the input levels and such...the analog DSP was already set to 96KHz as appropriate. So i'm hoping its those analog input levels...update soon!


Thanks guys.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Bob and Roger,


Okay, here's the deal...analog input level, definitely the saving grace, you guys rock! But here's the question...when I got to that menu, the Red bar and double XX's were flashing constant almost, with the input at the base level of 0. I had to adjust it all the way to -15 db to get the red XX's to disappear entirely, even during rough guitar attacks. Now, if I only go to -10db, I still have some red XX's appearing, but the muddiness is gone I believe. So, the question is do I go all the way down to the -15db level where I get no red bars and no XX's at all, or just go with like -10db? Seems like the Meridian is sending a very hot XLR signal I guess...why would I not have seen this with Analog Direct chosen?


The beer is chilling guys...thanks a TON for this btw.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Manual Section 3.8. The first peak indicator warning shows the "last 6dB of safe level".

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18423691
> 
> 
> Manual Section 3.8. The first peak indicator warning shows the "last 6dB of safe level".
> 
> --Bob



Got it, thanks Bob...i dialed it back to -15db to fully get rid of the red area. By the way, this was a sneaky problem, in that some source music, the less dynamic piano recordings for instance, were not sounding bad...it wasn't until I placed some good hard guitar licks a la Johnny A's funky blues guitar that I actually heard it. So, 3 cd's in to listening, I heard it. Guess my first 2 discs were just too mellow 


Cheers guys, my system overall now has never sounded so good...ARC is simply amazing!


I'm curious if others are using their subwoofers in the mix as I am now for even 2-channel music? I know the purists would likely say that 2-channel music should only be sent thru L and R fronts, but I think I like having a little more depth in the bass. What is consensus there?


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I use my sub with 2 channel. I bought LF/RF specifically to pair with a good, musical sub.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18423890
> 
> 
> I use my sub with 2 channel. I bought LF/RF specifically to pair with a good, musical sub.
> 
> --Bob



Excellent, makes sense I think. Question - I notice that my DVD player stops transmitting digital HDMI to the D2V if I turn my TV off. Very annoying - it tries to sync, but never gets out of the stopping/starting of music while the handshake never levels out. This happens when I use my DVD player to play DTS CD's, DVD-Audio discs, or even simple plain old CD's...in all cases, the audio is set to Digital HDMI for that source, with Auto Digital set to No...it was doing it when it was set to Yes as well, doesn't seem to make a difference. I've tried stopping the disc, rebooting the player, rebooting the D2V, switching sources and then back, etc.


I really don't want to have my TV on just to listen to good DTS CD's, DVD-Audio's, or CD's from this source. The DVD player in question is a Pioneer 79avi.


Thoughts?


----------



## obie_fl

I don't remember my 79avi needing the display on with my D2. I haven't had mine hooked up for a while though.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18424227
> 
> 
> Excellent, makes sense I think. Question - I notice that my DVD player stops transmitting digital HDMI to the D2V if I turn my TV off. Very annoying - it tries to sync, but never gets out of the stopping/starting of music while the handshake never levels out. This happens when I use my DVD player to play DTS CD's, DVD-Audio discs, or even simple plain old CD's...in all cases, the audio is set to Digital HDMI for that source, with Auto Digital set to No...it was doing it when it was set to Yes as well, doesn't seem to make a difference. I've tried stopping the disc, rebooting the player, rebooting the D2V, switching sources and then back, etc.
> 
> 
> I really don't want to have my TV on just to listen to good DTS CD's, DVD-Audio's, or CD's from this source. The DVD player in question is a Pioneer 79avi.
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



HDMI CEC


I'm not Bob, but I was having problems with my Oppo turning off when I turned my TV off. Both components had CEC turned on. CEC allows one component to control another thru HDMI.

EVEN IF YOU DON'T WANT THEM TO!!


Check your components and make sure that CEC is turned off in all of them.

Different manufacturer's call their CEC by different names. My Panasonic plasma called it 'viera link'.

Check your owners manual for a setting that says it allows 'one component to control another'. That is its CEC. Tun it off!!


Even with the CEC turned off in my Panny, my system will hand shake 3 times if I turn it off while playing an audio disc on my Oppo: but it will play. I just need to skip back to the beginning of the track to enjoy the music.

I bet this is your problem. Hope this helps.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18423214
> 
> 
> You need a media server that is capable of speaking the uPnP protocol...there should be many choices for that...in fact, Windows 7 with media player might actually support uPnP by default, not sure though. otherwise, the old twonky server on a windows machine would do it, its a freebie server that can be loaded on your existing windows machine. It speaks uPnP. You should have plenty of choices on both mac/pc in fact. It just happens that my NAS speaks uPnP, as many do now, and that's where my greatest drive redundancy is, so the NAS has always been my preferred storage/server point for all high quality flac music files.
> 
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Brian



If your files are on a PC or Mac all you need to use is Software from Foobar or Media Monkey and then use a USB cable to the PS DAC.

Much easier and different than streaming files from NAS or server where you most likely using ethernet or wireless.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18423811
> 
> 
> Got it, thanks Bob...i dialed it back to -15db to fully get rid of the red area. By the way, this was a sneaky problem, in that some source music, the less dynamic piano recordings for instance, were not sounding bad...it wasn't until I placed some good hard guitar licks a la Johnny A's funky blues guitar that I actually heard it. So, 3 cd's in to listening, I heard it. Guess my first 2 discs were just too mellow
> 
> 
> Cheers guys, my system overall now has never sounded so good...ARC is simply amazing!
> 
> 
> I'm curious if others are using their subwoofers in the mix as I am now for even 2-channel music? I know the purists would likely say that 2-channel music should only be sent thru L and R fronts, but I think I like having a little more depth in the bass. What is consensus there?
> 
> 
> -Brian



Same thing happened to me with my Esoteric SACD/CD player, the analog output was too hot for the internal DAC's of the D2/AVM50V, lowered the level by 6dB and my problem was gone.


I too would use the subwoofer in 2ch mode as it removes the low freq. resonance from the speaker cabinets and makes my low bass and mids better.


----------



## 13ege




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/18424510
> 
> 
> If your files are on a PC or Mac all you need to use is Software from Foobar or Media Monkey and then use a USB cable to the PS DAC.
> 
> Much easier and different than streaming files from NAS or server where you most likely using ethernet or wireless.



But only supports maximum of 24bit-96khz from usb. That's why streaming is more important, it allows up to 32-192. Possibility of using pc/mac like an ipod/iphone would be great.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18424767
> 
> 
> But only supports maximum of 24bit-96khz from usb. That's why streaming is more important, it allows up to 32-192. Possibility of using pc/mac like an ipod/iphone would be great.



Keep in mind that 20 bit dynamic range and roughly 80KHz sampling rate exceeds what the human ear can hear even in terms of digital processing artifacts.

--Bob


----------



## 13ege

then why they keep making higher bitrates and sampling rates? (just wondering)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18425039
> 
> 
> then why they keep making higher bitrates and sampling rates? (just wondering)



Because people will pay money for them. The higher rate content may very well sound better, but that is due to the quality of the performance and the care taken in mastering the recording -- not the higher rate on the purchased media.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18423486
> 
> 
> My plasma is a DVI device with a native resolution of 1366x768p. However it does not accept that as an input resolution. What it does accept is 1360x768p and that's what I'm using. With that input, my plasma leaves a 3 pixel column unused on each side (i.e., it doesn't scale that input up to 1366). 1360x768p is a standard resolution available in the Anthem Setup > Video Output menu.
> 
> 
> I also need to use "inverted" HDMI Sync to get that to work on my plasma.
> 
> 
> [There are additional "standard" resolutions available if you use the Live Video Settings Editor utility. You select one from the list and Upload it into the Anthem as your "Custom" video output choice now available in Setup > Video Output. So not really "custom" since it is predefined, just used that way. LVSE also allows you to define COMPLETELY custom video timings -- ALL the parameters -- and Upload that set of video timing parameters as your "Custom" choice in the Setup > Video Output menu. But it's been quite some time since folks here had to do that. Some older, Panasonic 768p displays needed completely custom timings for 768p input.]
> 
> 
> Now 1360:768 is not precisely equal to 16:9. It turns out that 1360:765 = 16:9. So for best video quality I also use Video Source Adjust > Scale Out = Letter/Pillar Box. When fed 16:9 input that means the Anthem adds thin letter box bars top and bottom (2 on the top and 1 on the bottom) to make a live video area of 1360:765, or precisely 16:9, which gets pixel mapped into my panel without additional scaling -- just leaving a thin black pixel strip around all 4 sides.
> 
> --Bob



Ahhh .. so, Bob. Interesting. Thanks. You must love your plasma. Would have thought you'd be going for a good 1080p unit like the Anthem's new offer by now, or perhaps the new JVC DLA-RS35U I was just reading about (really tempted to abandon CRTs).


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18425890
> 
> 
> Ahhh .. so, Bob. Interesting. Thanks. You must love your plasma. Would have thought you'd be going for a good 1080p unit like the Anthem's new offer by now, or perhaps the new JVC DLA-RS35U I was just reading about (really tempted to abandon CRTs).
> 
> 
> Ben



My viewing area is not suitable for a projector. And yes, I like my Fujitsu plasma a lot.

--Bob


----------



## bhrvatin

What is the recommended procedure for a FULL reset of D2 configurations? (I have the 1.47f firmware.)


It took me a long time to discover that I had a corruption of the DVD1 input configs, finally did a "load factory defaults", re-uploaded my ARC settings, then did a new config from scratch. Is this the recommended/best practice? BTW - it solved a major HDMI switching issue I was having. My SAT1 input switching was flawless, changing channels through the sat box with only slight pauses performed very well, so I was buggered about why DVD1 had a hard time syncing. The factory reload fixed this.


I have also seen on the forum that it might be prudent to do a F/W re-install as well. Can anyone comment on what might cause the corruption in the first place?


Thanks in advance!


Bart


----------



## mkaye

i had to send both xovers back to Paradigm

this is what i am reduced to...the Studio 100's make great stands!


mark


the ARC solution is amusing



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18355622
> 
> 
> Time to get in touch with the manufacturer I think. It is pretty bizarre to say the least, but I suppose it is possible the problem speaker had the wrong crossover installed when it was built in the factory. Or maybe they made a change in the crossover because the older design was subject to failure like this.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/18426764
> 
> 
> What is the recommended procedure for a FULL reset of D2 configurations? (I have the 1.47f firmware.)
> 
> 
> It took me a long time to discover that I had a corruption of the DVD1 input configs, finally did a "load factory defaults", re-uploaded my ARC settings, then did a new config from scratch. Is this the recommended/best practice? BTW - it solved a major HDMI switching issue I was having. My SAT1 input switching was flawless, changing channels through the sat box with only slight pauses performed very well, so I was buggered about why DVD1 had a hard time syncing. The factory reload fixed this.
> 
> 
> I have also seen on the forum that it might be prudent to do a F/W re-install as well. Can anyone comment on what might cause the corruption in the first place?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> Bart



Both the firmware and the settings can become corrupted. These would be bugs of course. There's no easy way to tell why something like that might happen. Some settings may have been corrupted by bugs in earlier firmware but the problem only shows up when you load new firmware. There are also examples of the firmware itself becoming corrupted if a sudden power cutoff in some other device (e.g., an amp) causes a surge of voltage back into the Anthem.


Anyway, one approach to resetting the Anthem when you are not sure of the source or timing of the corruption -- which means you can't trust any backups of your settings -- is to re-install the firmware (which requires a reload of factory defaults to begin with), then reload factory defaults AGAIN after that install, then manually re-enter your settings (no reloading of settings from a backup), and then re-Measure for ARC and Upload that new ARC solution.


Another approach is to use the Flash Erase utility (available from Anthem tech support) which clears all the programmable parts in the processor, then re-install the firmware, manually enter your settings, and then re-Measure for ARC and Upload that new ARC solution. Generally you only need to use Flash Erase if the processor is so dead it won't take a new firmware install.


Both of these can be simplified if you are confident your backup files of Setup and Video Source Adjust menu settings (on your PC) are good, or that your prior ARC solution is good.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18426792
> 
> 
> i had to send both xovers back to Paradigm
> 
> this is what i am reduced to...the Studio 100's make great stands!
> 
> 
> mark
> 
> 
> the ARC solution is amusing



Richard Syndrome!










--Bob


----------



## bhrvatin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18427061
> 
> 
> Both the firmware and the settings can become corrupted. These would be bugs of course. There's no easy way to tell why something like that might happen. Some settings may have been corrupted by bugs in earlier firmware but the problem only shows up when you load new firmware. There are also examples of the firmware itself becoming corrupted if a sudden power cutoff in some other device (e.g., an amp) causes a surge of voltage back into the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Anyway, one approach to resetting the Anthem when you are not sure of the source or timing of the corruption -- which means you can't trust any backups of your settings -- is to re-install the firmware (which requires a reload of factory defaults to begin with), then reload factory defaults AGAIN after that install, then manually re-enter your settings (no reloading of settings from a backup), and then re-Measure for ARC and Upload that new ARC solution.
> 
> 
> Another approach is to use the Flash Erase utility (available from Anthem tech support) which clears all the programmable parts in the processor, then re-install the firmware, manually enter your settings, and then re-Measure for ARC and Upload that new ARC solution. Generally you only need to use Flash Erase if the processor is so dead it won't take a new firmware install.
> 
> 
> Both of these can be simplified if you are confident your backup files of Setup and Video Source Adjust menu settings (on your PC) are good, or that your prior ARC solution is good.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks so much, you are too good! Your helpful and detailed answers always come so quick. Anthem should consider silk screening "Pariseau" somewhere on the front panel of the D series!










Bart


----------



## bluemark81

It's been a couple of months since I've been in here due to personal reasons. Can someone bring me up to speed on Dolby Volume and the latest beta software version?


Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhrvatin* /forum/post/18427858
> 
> 
> Anthem should consider silk screening "Pariseau" somewhere on the front panel of the D series!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bart



GREAT IDEA -- a support by *Pariseau* Logo


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/18424510
> 
> 
> If your files are on a PC or Mac all you need to use is Software from Foobar or Media Monkey and then use a USB cable to the PS DAC.
> 
> Much easier and different than streaming files from NAS or server where you most likely using ethernet or wireless.



Sure, like I said, Twonky server is nice software, and you point out correctly that so are media monkey and foobar. These are software servers (aka services) just like twonky, no one said anything about *dedicated* machines, only servers.


As far as USB directly into the hifi rack, that assumes that someone's file storage point is anywhere within short reach of the D2V and associated stereo equipment! In fact, in many cases, people's data storage is nowhere near their hifi equipment and living/listening rooms. In my case, the NAS is way across the house, but on the same ethernet-based LAN within the house. So yes, streaming is ideal, and on any well performing 100MB or 1GB switched network, works like a charm! You've also limited yourself with USB to only 24/96 material. There are many sources today (and I predict more on the way) that are distributing higher bitrate/frequency material, for which USB would be limiting. Hence, the use of something network aware...again, loved my Olive Symphony for that purpose for years, still do, but looking at ways to take advantage of something beyond 16 bit/44.1KHz flac files.


It's a fairly new frontier and a good one I think, and it should be interesting to see all the new options that become available to accomodate it.


-Brian


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18432583
> 
> 
> Sure, like I said, Twonky server is nice software, and you point out correctly that so are media monkey and foobar. These are software servers (aka services) just like twonky, no one said anything about *dedicated* machines, only servers.
> 
> 
> As far as USB directly into the hifi rack, that assumes that someone's file storage point is anywhere within short reach of the D2V and associated stereo equipment! In fact, in many cases, people's data storage is nowhere near their hifi equipment and living/listening rooms. In my case, the NAS is way across the house, but on the same ethernet-based LAN within the house. So yes, streaming is ideal, and on any well performing 100MB or 1GB switched network, works like a charm! You've also limited yourself with USB to only 24/96 material. There are many sources today (and I predict more on the way) that are distributing higher bitrate/frequency material, for which USB would be limiting. Hence, the use of something network aware...again, loved my Olive Symphony for that purpose for years, still do, but looking at ways to take advantage of something beyond 16 bit/44.1KHz flac files.
> 
> 
> It's a fairly new frontier and a good one I think, and it should be interesting to see all the new options that become available to accomodate it.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Getting 192/24 or 176/24 hi def sound files from a remote location is a tough problem. 96/24 files is rather easy.

I stream my hi def files from a WHS to a Logitech Transporter which is limited to 96/24 if you use the Transporter DACs.

But I stream the Hi Def sound files from the Transporter over AES/EBU to a Weiss Minerva then AES/EBU to the D2 and play them over Analog Direct.

Or I also stream the files from a laptop over Firewire to the Weiss Minerva. There is NO USB used in my system.

And also you should know with the Transporter there is access to 192k audiophile streams from Radioio.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/18433029
> 
> 
> Getting 192/24 or 176/24 hi def sound files from a remote location is a tough problem. 96/24 files is rather easy.
> 
> I stream my hi def files from a WHS to a Logitech Transporter which is limited to 96/24 if you use the Transporter DACs.
> 
> But I stream the Hi Def sound files from the Transporter over AES/EBU to a Weiss Minerva then AES/EBU to the D2 and play them over Analog Direct.
> 
> Or I also stream the files from a laptop over Firewire to the Weiss Minerva. There is NO USB used in my system.
> 
> And also you should know with the Transporter there is access to 192k audiophile streams from Radioio.



A tough problem??? No sir, not at all...I'm a network engineer by trade, but honestly, I don't use a bit of it to accomplish this, honest! It's actually very easy....think buffering, and basic principles of TCP/IP, and all will be clear...not sure where you get your statements about hi def files being tough to stream, but I assure you, it's not tough at all. After all, virtually every owner of an AppleTV has been doing this for 4 years with 3GB high def movie files, much more demanding than a 500MB wav or 100MB flac file. Perhaps you're reliant on wireless networks and attributing "networking" problems to your own wireless troubles?


Yes, we agree, I love the Logitech Transporter, but again, limited to 96/24. I know all about the Transporter's radio streams, but again, we're talking about the future of home owned high res audio, so thanks but no thanks. Owning and collecting your own high rez (176.4 kHz/ 24 bits or higher) audio files and streaming them to a DAC capable of decoding these high rez sources is the goal. Anything less would be un-civilized (TM)...


----------



## 13ege

Brian do you have any information about the bit-depth and sampling rate of ethernet inputs for pwd? Are they limited to 24-96 too or supports up to 24-32/192khz ?


I still can't find an answer for possibility of browsing and managing music library through pc/mac with a desktop client app or may be a web interface and let the pwd do the playback natively(inc. decoding). I always listen music when I'm at home, especially while working with pc, so ease of accessibility to music is what I am looking for.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18433283
> 
> 
> Brian do you have any information about the bit-depth and sampling rate of ethernet inputs for pwd? Are they limited to 24-96 too or supports up to 24-32/192khz ?
> 
> 
> I still can't find an answer for possibility of browsing and managing music library through pc/mac with a desktop client app or may be a web interface and let the pwd do the playback natively(inc. decoding). I always listen music when I'm at home, especially while working with pc, so ease of accessibility to music is what I am looking for.



From a conversation last week with folks at PS Audio, the Bridge will allow the PWD to support decoding of 24/192KHz streams with the possibility of expanding via software update to include 32/192KHz. They are committed 100% to an iPod Touch/iPhone app and new iPad app that will allow full control of the music browsing and overall music interface. These apps will likely be free of charge from what I could gather, but of course rely on the user having one of these devices. In lieu of them, it is unclear if they will have for instance a simple web based UI for surfing/choosing music. Drop date for all of this is June at this point...we'll see.


-Brian


----------



## 13ege

Thanks Brian. I'm selling my Macbook Air to buy an ipad now, so good to hear about ipad app.







Anyway, it would be great if psaudio also make a web based ui or a desktop client, it would be much easier to use for those who own a huge archive like me. I sometimes use my iphone to browse my music located in an ext.hdd connected to my imac. It takes time to open a folder contains about 700-800 songs(for example 700 greatest hits of 80's) with an iphone and scrolling also is a torture. I hope they find a proper solution because I really liked these pwd and pwt combo.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18433591
> 
> 
> Thanks Brian. I'm selling my Macbook Air to buy an ipad now, so good to hear about ipad app.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, it would be great if psaudio also make a web based ui or a desktop client, it would be much easier to use for those who own a huge archive like me. I sometimes use my iphone to browse my music located in an ext.hdd connected to my imac. It takes time to open a folder contains about 700-800 songs(for example 700 greatest hits of 80's) with an iphone and scrolling also is a torture. I hope they find a proper solution because I really liked these pwd and pwt combo.



Agreed, I'm gunning for a simple web-based UI that can be accessed from anything, device agnostic if you will.


The iPad is intriguing for sure - I actually believe it will enjoy a promising market for specific use as simply a VERY nice remote control in the living/listening rooms of many audio/video freaks like ourselves. Consider that the dock with keyboard props it up at about a 45 degree angle, similar to any Crestron controller. With the ability to natively speak to an increasing number of audio/video components, it could make music/movie selection an exercise in some good honest tactile fun as you get full screen album art, detailed track/album info, band bio's, music/movie in-depth reviews, etc. as you flip thru one's collection.


As for streaming from USB-connected drives to PC/Mac hosts, no surprise that it's slow and painful....keep in mind that most USB drives spin up/down when accessed. Combine that with the actual usable throughput of USB 2.0 and more importantly the ability of the native harddrive to read/write thru its bus from an external USB source, and you've got the recipe for challenges.


But anyone with a large music file archive with a RAID-based system and proper network in place, should be able to enjoy this new trend. Whether using a NAS or a multi-use server with Twonky or Media Monkey, you should be good to go.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/18433029
> 
> 
> And also you should know with the Transporter there is access to 192k audiophile streams from Radioio.



Just to be clear that's a 192K bit rate not 192K sampling rate, big difference. RadioIO calling that "audiophile" streams is kind of pushing it. It is still lossy and really not all that fast of a data rate either.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

So, returning to the D2V focus, I have tried to find any CEC settings in the 79avi Pioneer DVD player, but don't seem to have any. I will try a few different things today, but no matter what I've tried here, I seem to always get an HDMI handshake issue when playing DVD-audio or DTS cd's between that machine and my D2v...i wonder if I've got a cable problem...it's a Kimber Kable HDMI cable, purchased right when the original 79avi came out (so maybe 5 years ago?). I have the unit set to send 480i over HDMI, which is what I want for watching DVD-video's, but is that maybe my problem in this case? Something else to test I guess


----------



## 13ege

Well I just received the reply from PS Audio's CEO:

Message:No problem. Indeed, we will release a desktop app that is UPnP

compatible and will work with the Bridge. It will also work with the iPod

and the PS iPod/iTouch app if you want - but you're not required to use it.

If you prefer you can operate everything from the MAC. Indeed, it'll be

both MAC and Windows compatible.


Good news. I'm planning to make a Dubai trip soon, I'll return with Anthems and Pwd&Pwt combo.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18434869
> 
> 
> Well I just received the reply from PS Audio's CEO:
> 
> Message:No problem. Indeed, we will release a desktop app that is UPnP
> 
> compatible and will work with the Bridge. It will also work with the iPod
> 
> and the PS iPod/iTouch app if you want - but you're not required to use it.
> 
> If you prefer you can operate everything from the MAC. Indeed, it'll be
> 
> both MAC and Windows compatible.
> 
> 
> Good news. I'm planning to make a Dubai trip soon, I'll return with Anthems and Pwd&Pwt combo.



Very good confirmation, thanks for that! Yeah, the desktop app makes sense, it would be very bizarre to require an iPad/iPod/iPhone to manipulate one's music files.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New Anthem Web Site*


Anthem has done a face lift on their web site. The home page:

http://www.anthemAV.com/ 


The Anthem Statement series products page:

http://www.anthemav.com/anthem-state...ement-products 


The Anthem series products page:

http://www.anthemav.com/anthem/anthem-products 


Looks like some parts are sill in process. E.g., the Dealer Locator doesn't seem to be working from the Anthem Statement page although it works from the Anthem Statement portion of the main page.


ETA: If you sit on the Anthem Statement products page, it cycles through a series of marketing blurbs on the products -- one of which reads, "Dolby Volume: Now Available with the Latest Software Upgrade!"


I checked the public firmware and it is still V2.08 (i.e., no Dolby Volume yet).

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18435767
> 
> *New Anthem Web Site*
> 
> 
> 
> If you sit on the Anthem Statement products page, it cycles through a series of marketing blurbs on the products -- one of which reads, "Dolby Volume: Now Available with the Latest Software Upgrade!"
> 
> 
> --Bob



Oh, you have to love marketing departments the world over!!!!


----------



## Kensmith48

Checked out the new site . What happened to the D2? It's nowhere to be found.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18436717
> 
> 
> Checked out the new site . What happened to the D2? It's nowhere to be found.



Same for the D1. There's a "Discontinued Products" section, but those two have not made it in there yet.

--Bob


----------



## erikno

Just checked the new site. The download for d2v says it was last changed 24th March 2010. However the actual file is still v 2.08. funny...


erikno


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/18437160
> 
> 
> Just checked the new site. The download for d2v says it was last changed 24th March 2010. However the actual file is still v 2.08. funny...
> 
> 
> erikno



All the download stuff was "created" today when they copied things over to populate the new site.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

I've run ARC more times than I care to count. My measurements basically stay about the same. I keep getting a x-over of 115 or 110 for the fronts (full range set to small) which are Def. Tech. bi-poles and a x-over of about the same for dual D.T. subs. Isn't that high for any sub to x-over to? I'd prefer 80 for the fronts and 60 for the sub, but it never happens. I'm about ready to manually set everything up and forget about ARC. ARC does sound better but what's the problem with these x-overs?


Ken


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18437518
> 
> 
> I've run ARC more times than I care to count. My measurements basically stay about the same. I keep getting a x-over of 115 or 110 for the fronts (full range set to small) which are Def. Tech. bi-poles and a x-over of about the same for dual D.T. subs. Isn't that high for any sub to x-over to? I'd prefer 80 for the fronts and 60 for the sub, but it never happens. I'm about ready to manually set everything up and forget about ARC. ARC does sound better but what's the problem with these x-overs?
> 
> 
> Ken



ARC doesn't use any large or small settings as it sets the unit to advanced ot use it's own custom settings. Are you sure you are not confusing cutoff's with crossovers? Where are you seeing these settings. If you are seeing them in the targets window these are cutoffs where arc does not try to apply any more corrections. For the crossovers you have to look in the processors settings to see what ARC uploaded.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18437518
> 
> 
> I've run ARC more times than I care to count. My measurements basically stay about the same. I keep getting a x-over of 115 or 110 for the fronts (full range set to small) which are Def. Tech. bi-poles and a x-over of about the same for dual D.T. subs. Isn't that high for any sub to x-over to? I'd prefer 80 for the fronts and 60 for the sub, but it never happens. I'm about ready to manually set everything up and forget about ARC. ARC does sound better but what's the problem with these x-overs?
> 
> 
> Ken



Post your ARC charts. That's the only way anyone here can help figure out what's going on.


The usual reason ARC picks a high cutoff/crossover for front speakers is that they are too hot in bass -- usually accompanied by a significant dip at frequencies just above the bass -- and ARC is trying to eliminate all that. Repositioning the speakers (and/or bass traps) is one approach to fixing this. Another is to give ARC some manual help in the choice of cutoff/crossovers for those.


The "cutoff" for the sub is the high end of the room correction processing for it. Think of it as like "Max EQ Frequency" for the sub. The "crossover" for the sub, on the other hand, can only be found by looking in Setup after the ARC Upload. It is almost always different from the "cutoff". (For the other speakers, ARC V2.4 will always use the same value for cutoff and crossover.)


Why would you want your sub to roll off above 60Hz if it is actually capable of going higher? LFE content goes up to about 120Hz. And it has to go high enough to handle steered bass from the other speakers as well. But you are right to try to find a way to lower the cutoff/crossover for LF/RF.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Yeah, I was thinking they were x-overs. Thanks for pointing that out. I'll trying running ARC a couple of more times and check for the x-over settings. For some reason my side surrounds have a huge peak at 200khz. Trying to figure it out. It never changes.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18434737
> 
> 
> So, returning to the D2V focus, I have tried to find any CEC settings in the 79avi Pioneer DVD player, but don't seem to have any. I will try a few different things today, but no matter what I've tried here, I seem to always get an HDMI handshake issue when playing DVD-audio or DTS cd's between that machine and my D2v...i wonder if I've got a cable problem...it's a Kimber Kable HDMI cable, purchased right when the original 79avi came out (so maybe 5 years ago?). I have the unit set to send 480i over HDMI, which is what I want for watching DVD-video's, but is that maybe my problem in this case? Something else to test I guess



Be sure to check for a setting in your monitor also.

HDMI communication goes both ways from one end of the a/v chain to the other.


Again, it is not usually labeled as CEC in the menu or manual. My panny called it 'viera link'. Even with the CEC turned off in my Oppo the Panny would turn it off until I found and disabled the CEC.


Also with my oppo it has to be set to 720p or higher to play DVD-A or SACD.

Try setting your output from the Pionneer to 720p or 1080i/p and see if that helps.


Tom


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks again Bob.

I did another ARC upload just to see what the X-over's would be set at. They all turned out to be the same as the cutoff freq's. All of the speakers are set with the "Advanced" on. If I turn the Advanced feature to off it doesn't display any crossovers. I don't have any bass traps but I've got a dozen acoustic panels on the walls. The speakers are all bi-polars so I don't want anything to interfere with the speakers on the back of the towers. They are both set at 30 degrees and 18" out from the corner.

The fronts are full range speakers with the built in subs so I thought they could handle the bass down to 70 or 80 and then let the subs take over from there.

I'll try and post some graphs tomorrow.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes, as I said, only the sub crossover will differ from it's cutoff.


If you turn off the Advanced settings after the ARC Upload, then you will screw up the ARC solution. It requires the Advanced settings it has Uploaded.


We'll see what the charts show when you post them. Also capture and post the Targets window.

--Bob


----------



## 13ege

Bob,


I'll probably pull the trigger soon for a2-a5 & d2v but I'm also thinking about avm50 instead of d2v. I can't say I understand much of their technical specifications so I can't make an healthy comparison. What are their differences and how these differences effect performance, are they worth to pay more?


I will use anthems with paradigm studio 100, cc690, 4 x adp590, dsp3400. By the end of the summer fronts can be replaced by sig s8. I'll connect tosh ep-30 hd-dvd player, oppo bdp83, ps3 slim, wdtv live, hd receiver, and ps audio's pwd&pwt combo.


----------



## /dev/null

Bob-

What happens if you adjust the x-over settings after ARC? Also, how does ARC determine Room Gain, and what will I gain/lose by manually forcing it up/down?

Thanks!


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18439484
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I'll probably pull the trigger soon for a2-a5 & d2v but I'm also thinking about avm50 instead of d2v. I can't say I understand much of their technical specifications so I can't make an healthy comparison. What are their differences and how these differences effect performance, are they worth to pay more?
> 
> 
> I will use anthems with paradigm studio 100, cc690, 4 x adp590, dsp3400. By the end of the summer fronts can be replaced by sig s8. I'll connect tosh ep-30 hd-dvd player, oppo bdp83, ps3 slim, wdtv live, hd receiver, and ps audio's pwd&pwt combo.



Excellent setup, the Sigs are worth the upgrade...


Here is a post listing the differences between the D2v and 50v detailed...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=17883


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by */dev/null* /forum/post/18439677
> 
> 
> Bob-
> 
> What happens if you adjust the x-over settings after ARC? Also, how does ARC determine Room Gain, and what will I gain/lose by manually forcing it up/down?
> 
> Thanks!



If you change the Setup menu settings that ARC Uploads then you will have screwed up the ARC solution. There is some precise math going on in ARC's calculations that balance ARC's choice of crossovers and volume trims with the room correction parameters ARC also Uploads (not visible in Setup).


The bottom line is that if you are going to use ARC you must make any such changes in ARC's Targets window -- then re-Calculate and re-Upload (no need to re-Measure).


If you accidentally change a crossover or volume trim after the ARC Upload just change it back. If you are not sure, and have Saved User and/or Installer Settings after the ARC Upload you can just Reload from one of those. And of course you can always just open your latest ARC results file in ARC's Advanced mode and redo the Upload if you're not sure your User or Installer Settings have the right stuff in them.


ETA: There are some additional Setup menu settings that you must make on your own to get the best out of your ARC solution. For example you need to specify the correct speaker distances and whether your surrounds are Direct firing or Dipole. You must specify "1 Subwoofer" if you have any subs, regardless of how many you have. And you must set the proper Polarity and Phase for your subwoofer. And of course you must have Room EQ ON in Setup > Source Setup for each Source so that it actually uses the ARC results. Certain other Setup menu settings are simply bypassed/ignored for Sources using ARC. These include the Room Resonance Filter, the Center EQ filter, and the THX Ultra2 Subwoofer, subwoofer Boundary Gain, and subwoofer Bypass LFE settings. All of these older, EQ related settings are superseded by what ARC does in a much more sophisticated way. But you don't need to change them yourself as ARC simply ignores them both during Measurement and later when you are listening (so long as Room EQ is ON for your Source).


------------------------------------


Room Gain is a room response characteristic -- a desirable room response characteristic. ARC attempts to detect the inherent Room Gain in your listening room and preserve that even as it is removing the undesirable room characteristics.


Room Gain shows up as the shallow hump in the black, dashed Target curves for each speaker near the crossover frequencies. The height of the hump over the basic volume level of the ARC solution (in dB) is the numeric value of the Room Gain. Values in the range 2 to 4dB are typical. Rooms with extensive acoustic treatment are "deader" and will Measure a lower Room Gain. Defects in the Measured curves for the speakers near the crossover frequencies can also confuse ARC's analysis of inherent Room Gain. For example, if your speakers have a dip near the crossovers (usually due to room effects), ARC will see a negative Room Gain, which makes no sense physically, so ARC will use 0dB or a small positive Room Gain instead.


If ARC's solution matches the inherent Room Gain in your room then natural sounds that might happen in the room, e.g., doors closing or chairs moving, will be better matched by the audio tracks. That is, preserving proper Room Gain is part of what it makes us perceive the sound as being played inside, in our room.


People who mix movie tracks assume home listening rooms will have some modest Room Gain. People who mix music have no common approach to this. Some folks find a somewhat lower Room Gain for Music than Movie works better for the type of Music they like to listen to. Others notice no such difference.


You can change Room Gain for either Movie or Music (separately) in ARC's Targets window (leave the "Force" box checked). You'll see the change in the shape of the shallow hump in the Target's curve. You can imagine the effect of that change in bass response of course. You might do this to establish a different Room Gain for Music, or because you think the Measured curves for your speakers are confusing ARC, or because a modest change in Room Gain yields smoother Calculated curves, or because your acoustically treated room is too dead (Room Gain too low). Small changes in Room Gain will not likely be audible unless the quality of the Calculated results (residual errors and wobbles) change as a result.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18439484
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I'll probably pull the trigger soon for a2-a5 & d2v but I'm also thinking about avm50 instead of d2v. I can't say I understand much of their technical specifications so I can't make an healthy comparison. What are their differences and how these differences effect performance, are they worth to pay more?
> 
> 
> I will use anthems with paradigm studio 100, cc690, 4 x adp590, dsp3400. By the end of the summer fronts can be replaced by sig s8. I'll connect tosh ep-30 hd-dvd player, oppo bdp83, ps3 slim, wdtv live, hd receiver, and ps audio's pwd&pwt combo.



Warpdrv already linked you to the post I was going to send you to.


Over the years, numerous posters have compared the original D2 to the original AVM 50 -- and here I'm talking about posters who had the chance to hear both set up correctly and over enough time to draw conclusions. In EVERY case these posters report they could hear the improvement in the audio in the original D2. This includes posters who ended up buying the AVM 50 ANYWAY for cost reasons or whatever. I.e., the original D2 sounded better but of course that comes at a price. (The video solution is identical in the two of them).


I believe we've only had two posters who have had a chance to do the same thing with the new D2v vs. the new AVM 50v. Both are people who originally got an AVM 50v, got familiar with it, and then, for whatever reason, decided to go to a D2v. Both reported they could hear the audio improvement in the D2v.


All of this is subjective of course, and it is natural for folks who switch to the more expensive product to believe their money is well spent. Nevertheless, I believe the reports are probably correct. There is an audible improvement in the D2v. Whether it is worth the cost difference is something only you can decide.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18434737
> 
> 
> So, returning to the D2V focus, I have tried to find any CEC settings in the 79avi Pioneer DVD player, but don't seem to have any. I will try a few different things today, but no matter what I've tried here, I seem to always get an HDMI handshake issue when playing DVD-audio or DTS cd's between that machine and my D2v...i wonder if I've got a cable problem...it's a Kimber Kable HDMI cable, purchased right when the original 79avi came out (so maybe 5 years ago?). I have the unit set to send 480i over HDMI, which is what I want for watching DVD-video's, but is that maybe my problem in this case? Something else to test I guess



HDMI Audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of HDMI Video. That means the available bandwidth for HDMI Audio is a percentage of the bandwidth for the video, as set by the output resolution you are using.


So when playing multi-channel DVD-Audio (or SACD) discs over HDMI for example, you must use a video resolution of 720p or higher so that there is enough space for the audio. Otherwise you will get reduced quality audio.


If you are using 480i for those, that may be part of your problem, although this usually does not show up as a handshake problem.

--Bob


----------



## veneziana

this is my arc file....can you tell me is they are good?

thanks to all

Andrea


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veneziana* /forum/post/18443050
> 
> 
> this is my arc file....can you tell me is they are good?
> 
> thanks to all
> 
> Andrea



Several problems here:


First the basic volume level is *WAY* too high. Read this as the volume of the flat part of the black, dashed Target curves to the right of the crossover frequencies. In your charts it is about 93dB. You want it to be about 75dB.


Adjust this by lowering Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level substantially prior to your next ARC Measurement run. I would suggest you drop it about 15dB from wherever it is now. ARC uses that setting to set the volume of its test sweep tones and to set the basic volume level of the solution.


Presuming you have Uploaded this result, go into Setup > Level Calibration and see what ARC has Uploaded as your speaker volume trims. They should all be fairly close to 0dB. If any are way off, that could be part of your problem. In particular, if the sub volume trim is not within a few dB of 0dB you should adjust its built-in volume knob to compensate. E.g., if ARC Uploaded a trim of -8dB for your sub then ARC says the sub is too loud. So lower the volume knob on the sub somewhat before your next ARC Measurement pass.


Next it looks like LF/RF and C are too hot in bass. It's hard to tell just how bad because the scale is a bit whacked out by the high volume level. ARC has corrected for that, but it would be better if you could tame that some yourself before your next ARC Measurement run.


There could be several reasons for this. It could simply be a positioning issue (the bass from these speakers coupling too strongly to the room). Try moving them further from the wall/corner behind them. If you have powered "satellite" subwoofers attached to these speakers they could be set up incorrectly. You can also get this if you have these speakers wired up incorrectly through some intermediate device such as an external EQ. Finally, these speakers may have a bass response control you need to adjust such as a bass port that can be closed.


By the way, use the Auto Scale button in ARC to correct the scale change you've accidentally made in the LF chart.


Next you've got a pretty significant dip at 12KHz in all your main speakers. (I'm assuming it is in LF as well, although that can't be seen due to the scale change on its chart.). This too could be from several causes, including a mic inaccuracy up there, but it is worth revisiting your speaker pointing as the first thing. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particular attention to their vertical pointing. LF and RF should *NOT* be pointed at your center seat. A good rule of thumb is to swing them about 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular to the screen towards center seating. If you have custom grills on the speakers, the grill cloth and mounting hardware can also cause this.


Your subwoofer looks like it has its internal crossover still engaged, probably set to 80Hz. You want to disable that, or crank it up to the highest frequency if you can't disable it altogether to improve the higher bass frequency output from your sub. Note that a "THX" setting will often force an 80Hz crossover in a sub, so don't use that.


Right now your sub is Measuring as good down to about 25Hz, which is not bad at all, and indeed may be the design limit of your sub. But there are subs out there that can go deeper. If you expected yours to go deeper, see if it has a subsonic (low bass frequency) filter you can disable. Sometimes this masquerades as a setting for "sub too close to wall". Lie to it and say the sub is NOT too close to a wall. If you find no such setting, try moving the sub closer to the wall/corner behind it go get a boundary gain boost below 30Hz.


Next time you post, please also capture and post your ARC Targets window.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

One way to post the charts here is to paste them into Windows Paint (bundled with Windows) and then Save As using JPEG file format to keep the file size reasonable. Do that for each of the 5 captures (resulting in 5 separate JPEG files), and then use the Attach Files feature here (found just below the box where you type in your post text). You can upload 3 files and then 2 more files to AVS as part of your post. They appear as links in your post. You can use the Preview button to make sure all is working as you want before you Submit your post. Once the picture files are uploaded, they are actually hosted here on AVS so you don't need them on your computer any longer.

--Bob[/quote]


I was supposed to post my ARC measurements today but I'm having a hard time posting them here. I tried the above instructions but haven't had any luck. My laptop has Vista and there is something called Paint but not Windows Paint . It says it can't do jpeg.

Any other suggestions on how to post my ARC graphs? Keep it simple.


Ken


----------



## dherrick

Kensmith. Try using the Snipping Tool that comes with Vista. It will allow you to do a screen capture and save as a jpeg or gif file. The link below will show you how to use it.

http://geekycoder.wordpress.com/2007...creen-anymore/


----------



## benleeys

Kensmith,


There's a small and simple shareware called "Irfanview" on the web which allows you to easily create and maniplulate JPEG files.


You can capture your screen shots with PrintScrn button on your keyboard and paste to Irfanview, trim, join several shots and label them to produce a neat picture in no time like this - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...2&d=1267557218 .


Tip: Before you capture your screen, you can open up the ARC screen by dragging the right hand vertical line separating the 2 sections of the page to the edge of the screen (like you do to enlarge windows), thereby enlarging the graph sizes.


Ben


----------



## dherrick

Bob,


After much messing with targets these ARC plots are about the best that I could do. I would appreciate your input. Any suggestions? Especially on addressing the dip at 10kHz and spike from 15-20kHz?


Room is 12x23. Front speakers are Thiel CS2.4s and are against the 12 foot wall located 18 inches in front of wall and 20 inches from side wall. Based on my layout, that is as far as I can move them into the room.


Thanks in advance.


----------



## mkaye

i am having trouble getting output from Zone2

i am just getting around to connecting the D2v to my home audio distribution system (Crestron Pad8)

i want the Tuner

i have tried Copy from Main, and not and i don't get any sound (i plugged another source into the input from the D2v and got sound so i know everything is prgrammed correctly)

i have the volume at 0db (line level input required)

is there something else i am missing?


mark


i guess i need better glasses, can't read Zone2 vs Zone3 (using wrong zone)


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18440698
> 
> 
> HDMI Audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of HDMI Video. That means the available bandwidth for HDMI Audio is a percentage of the bandwidth for the video, as set by the output resolution you are using.
> 
> 
> So when playing multi-channel DVD-Audio (or SACD) discs over HDMI for example, you must use a video resolution of 720p or higher so that there is enough space for the audio. Otherwise you will get reduced quality audio.
> 
> 
> If you are using 480i for those, that may be part of your problem, although this usually does not show up as a handshake problem.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I tried up'ing the resolution from the DVD player to 720p and no luck still. Same exact symptoms. By the way, I never had a problem with this with my old D2 running 1.33 and earlier, and the DVD player settings haven't been changed a bit in 5 years! So something changed here with the D2V. This is a net new problem. By the way, it's not just when I play DTS CD's or DVD-Audio's from this player, I even just tried a simple normal CD, and the same cutout of audio occurs as soon as the TV is turned off. So, it's not a multichannel, high bit-rate thing, even a lowly 16 bit/44.1KHz old fashioned CD has this problem.


Here's what's interesting - if I disconnect the HDMI cable from the D2V to the TV while the problem with syncing is happening, the problem goes away completely! So, the D2V has an issue with HDMI digital audio input it appears when it cannot see the TV. I recall that the old D2 had a setting called "Repeater" or something that I had had to set a certain way, can't remember what the setting was, but perhaps that's why it worked perfectly for 4+ years with the old D2 and everything else the same? I notice that option is not in 2.08 here...any other ideas for how I can fix this? This is a showstopper if I can't listen to simple music from this source without the TV being on. I don't want to have to remove the HDMI output from the D2V every time I want to listen to a DVD-audio or DTS CD.


Thanks for the help as always.

-Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan

By the way, just more interesting data on this...I tried a different source, this time my new Anthem BLX200 bluray player that is ONLY connected via HDMI to the D2V. Same symptoms with this source...it will play blurays fine all day long as long as the TV is on. As soon as I turn the TV off, the sound stops after the fan dies down on the TV (about 1 minute after turning it off). So, as soon as the HDMI port on the TV goes dormant the D2V doesn't handshake anymore with it and so outputs nothing at all...the BluRay player is still playing, but nothing is being heard thru the D2V. So, it's not the source disc players per se, but it could be a setting for these sources in the D2V or the path to the TV itself. I tried turning Frame Lock on, but that didn't help at all. Is there a way to disable deep color on the D2v for a certain input, because my TV is not capable of Deep color anyway, and I read something that made me suspect that as possibly the source of the problem. Of course, the D2 had no support for Deep color, so maybe that's why it worked for me for 4+ years and just now stopped working.


Thoughts guys?


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18437660
> 
> 
> Post your ARC charts. That's the only way anyone here can help figure out what's going on.
> 
> Bob



Well it took awhile but I finally figured out how to post my ARC charts. Thanks for the help guys.

There's a big peak at 200 hz on the surrounds but I think I can get that lowered if I increase the bass in the front towers. Then the cutoffs & x-0vers should also fall to approx. 110-115. I had a HUGE problem with the rear speakers. They have powered subs and after alot of head banging I figured out that the level adj knob wasn't placed on the metal stem the same as the other speaker so the bass was way out of whack. It's ok now though.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18456145
> 
> 
> By the way, just more interesting data on this...I tried a different source, this time my new Anthem BLX200 bluray player that is ONLY connected via HDMI to the D2V. Same symptoms with this source...it will play blurays fine all day long as long as the TV is on. As soon as I turn the TV off, the sound stops after the fan dies down on the TV (about 1 minute after turning it off). So, as soon as the HDMI port on the TV goes dormant the D2V doesn't handshake anymore with it and so outputs nothing at all...the BluRay player is still playing, but nothing is being heard thru the D2V. So, it's not the source disc players per se, but it could be a setting for these sources in the D2V or the path to the TV itself. I tried turning Frame Lock on, but that didn't help at all. Is there a way to disable deep color on the D2v for a certain input, because my TV is not capable of Deep color anyway, and I read something that made me suspect that as possibly the source of the problem. Of course, the D2 had no support for Deep color, so maybe that's why it worked for me for 4+ years and just now stopped working.
> 
> 
> Thoughts guys?



That is the way HDCP is suppose to work.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18456239
> 
> 
> That is the way HDCP is suppose to work.



No sir, I don't think so...being forced to have your TV on when you're just listening to digital PCM over HDMI from a DVD player or other disc transport??? No sir, been working differently for me for 5 years, with the EXACT same equipment, with 1 difference...the old D2 is now a D2V.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18456292
> 
> 
> No sir, I don't think so...being forced to have your TV on when you're just listening to digital PCM over HDMI from a DVD player or other disc transport??? No sir, been working differently for me for 5 years, with the EXACT same equipment, with 1 difference...the old D2 is now a D2V.



Have you turned off HDMI CEC in your TV?


What is the make and model of your TV? I'll look up the manual online and see if there is a setting for CEC.


This is acting just like my system when it had CEC turned on.With the CEC not turned off in both components, the TV would tell my oppo to turn off when I turned the TV off.

Even with CEC turned off in the oppo 83 and the panny plasma, if the TV is turned off while playing an audio disc there will be a handshake issue. Audio will go in and out 3 times, finnaly staying on. After the handshaking, the audio is fine. If I start an audio disc in the oppo with the TV off, everything works fine. Such is the wonderful world of HDMI.


You could also setup a different source with an analog or a spdif connection from your pioneer dvd to the D2v for audio discs. This will bypass HDMI and the handshakes. This will mean you will need at least one more cable (coax or optical) or 6 more rca analog cables for DVD-A or SACD.


But please list your TV model and I'll see if I can find the CEC in its manual.

Help me help you.


Tom


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/18456487
> 
> 
> Have you turned off HDMI CEC in your TV?
> 
> 
> What is the make and model of your TV? I'll look up the manual online and see if there is a setting for CEC.
> 
> 
> This is acting just like my system when it had CEC turned on.With the CEC not turned off in both components, the TV would tell my oppo to turn off when I turned the TV off.
> 
> Even with CEC turned off in the oppo 83 and the panny plasma, if the TV is turned off while playing an audio disc there will be a handshake issue. Audio will go in and out 3 times, finnaly staying on. After the handshaking, the audio is fine. If I start an audio disc in the oppo with the TV off, everything works fine. Such is the wonderful world of HDMI.
> 
> 
> You could also setup a different source with an analog or a spdif connection from your pioneer dvd to the D2v for audio discs. This will bypass HDMI and the handshakes. This will mean you will need at least one more cable (coax or optical) or 6 more rca analog cables for DVD-A or SACD.
> 
> 
> But please list your TV model and I'll see if I can find the CEC in its manual.
> 
> Help me help you.
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom, I appreciate it, and these are good thoughts, but there is no CEC in my case. I have a Sony Qualia 006 that takes a 1080i/60 input maximum. It was HDMI 1.1, took delivery in 2005, and it's been good to me. There is no CEC or CEC-like settings. Also, went thru the 79avi also and no CEC in there either...it is HDMI 1.1, again dating to 2005.


Unlike your cases, my HDMI doesn't just stutter 3 times and then all is well, it NEVER settles out at all, no matter how long you wait...i've literally let it stutter in and out for an hour and it never fixes itself. That's from the 79avi...in the case of the Anthem BluRay player, the sound just never even tries to sync, it just cuts out completely after the TV is turned off.


I really don't want to set up a totally separate Source input just for times I don't want my TV on, seems un-necessary...again, I'd love to get to the bottom of what is inherently different about the D2V from the D2 that is creating this problem where before it worked perfectly. Is it the difference between HDMI 1.1 (D2) and HDMI 1.3b or whatever (D2V)? Is it that the old Menu option in the D2 for Repeater was done away with in the D2V code? That Repeater setting had something to do with my past success, I'm almost sure of it.


I appreciate the out of the box thinking and ideas here, i really do, but we need to keep digging here I think.


Thanks a ton for the sound advice though!

-Brian


----------



## tngiloy

Brian,

Both the pioneer and the sony are equiped with iLink.

Make sure iLink is turned off in the pioneer. Make sure that iLink standby is turned off in the sony. I realize that it should need an iLink cable to connect the components, but it could still be sending a digital signal thru HDMI.

It is possible that there is a signal being sent thru HDMI that wasn't allowed to pass in v1.1 and is allowed with v1.3.

If you have already done this then ignore this. If not, give it a try.

If it doesn't help then I promise I'll stop trying to help.


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18456554
> 
> 
> Tom, I appreciate it, and these are good thoughts, but there is no CEC in my case. I have a Sony Qualia 006 that takes a 1080i/60 input maximum. It was HDMI 1.1, took delivery in 2005, and it's been good to me. There is no CEC or CEC-like settings. Also, went thru the 79avi also and no CEC in there either...it is HDMI 1.1, again dating to 2005.
> 
> 
> Unlike your cases, my HDMI doesn't just stutter 3 times and then all is well, it NEVER settles out at all, no matter how long you wait...i've literally let it stutter in and out for an hour and it never fixes itself. That's from the 79avi...in the case of the Anthem BluRay player, the sound just never even tries to sync, it just cuts out completely after the TV is turned off.
> 
> 
> I really don't want to set up a totally separate Source input just for times I don't want my TV on, seems un-necessary...again, I'd love to get to the bottom of what is inherently different about the D2V from the D2 that is creating this problem where before it worked perfectly. Is it the difference between HDMI 1.1 (D2) and HDMI 1.3b or whatever (D2V)? Is it that the old Menu option in the D2 for Repeater was done away with in the D2V code? That Repeater setting had something to do with my past success, I'm almost sure of it.
> 
> 
> I appreciate the out of the box thinking and ideas here, i really do, but we need to keep digging here I think.
> 
> 
> Thanks a ton for the sound advice though!
> 
> -Brian



Let Anthem know since they have the BD player and D2v on hand. In fact call Nick or Piero and let them try it while you're on the phone. They have instant access to the engineers in Ottawa and can often solve these kinds of problems quickly.

John


----------



## Warpdrv

I think were due for another firmware update... 2.1 coming soon ?


----------



## 13ege

Last question before d2v purchase:,


How good is d2v's stereo music performance? If I go with d2v, am I still going to look for an additional pre-amplifier or d2v has nothing less than a stereo pre-amplifier? I'm a fan of stereo, I don't use multichannel for 2.0 recorded songs so its stereo performance is very important to me.


(I will use it with pwd&pwt combo and I will probably add a turntable later.)


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18459341
> 
> 
> Last question before d2v purchase:,
> 
> 
> How good is d2v's stereo music performance? If I go with d2v, am I still going to look for an additional pre-amplifier or d2v has nothing less than a stereo pre-amplifier? I'm a fan of stereo, I don't use multichannel for 2.0 recorded songs so its stereo performance is very important to me.
> 
> 
> (I will use it with pwd&pwt combo and I will probably add a turntable later.)



Most of what I listen to for music is stereo. Using an Anthem A2 amp, my D2v, and an Arcam DVD player I get fantastic sound. With ARC and this combo I continue to impress guests and myself at how good it sounds IMHO.

John


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18459341
> 
> 
> Last question before d2v purchase:,
> 
> 
> How good is d2v's stereo music performance? If I go with d2v, am I still going to look for an additional pre-amplifier or d2v has nothing less than a stereo pre-amplifier? I'm a fan of stereo, I don't use multichannel for 2.0 recorded songs so its stereo performance is very important to me.
> 
> 
> (I will use it with pwd&pwt combo and I will probably add a turntable later.)



In 2 words, I would say VERY GOOD. Can I assume you are planning on sending 2-channel balanced XLR's out from the PWD and into the 2-channel XLR input on the D2V??? If so, you have 2 choices in general - you can use Analog Direct mode for that input, which would simply not modify the sound at all, just using the D2V as a simple pre-amp with volume and tone controls (which can be bypassed actually), or you can use Analog DSP mode if, for instance, you want the PWD signal to use the ARC room calibration parameters to "enhance" the sound for your particular room setup. The choice is yours. But yeah, I would say that this would be a VERY nice setup, considering the quality of the PWD's dac and the central control, source management, and (if using ARC) sound enhancement of the D2V.


Just my 2 cents,

Brian


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18459341
> 
> 
> Last question before d2v purchase:,
> 
> 
> How good is d2v's stereo music performance? If I go with d2v, am I still going to look for an additional pre-amplifier or d2v has nothing less than a stereo pre-amplifier? I'm a fan of stereo, I don't use multichannel for 2.0 recorded songs so its stereo performance is very important to me.
> 
> 
> (I will use it with pwd&pwt combo and I will probably add a turntable later.)



I too mostly listen to a lot of 2 channel music, both CD and vinyl, and use my D2v as a stereo preamp. Using the Analog-Direct setting bypasses all the processing allowing the unit to function as conventional preamp. I am very satisfied with its performance in that mode.


The Analog-Direct setting however, also bypasses the effects of the ARC in providing for room correction. I therefore use either digital or Analog-DSP for CD listening. This allows for the inclusion of the benefits of ARC as well as enabling the use of the subwoofer. Since the DAC’s in the D2v are superior to most DACs in anything but the most expensive CD players, when combined with the 192/24 upsampling I am quite satisfied with the results in digital PCM Mode for CD playback.


As far as analog/LP playback, I do most often use the Analog-Direct/purist mode and again am very satisfied with its 2 channel stereo performance. I use a Simaudio LP5.3 phono preamp connected via balanced XLR cables to the balanced 2-ch input.


While I don’t use it often, selecting Analog-DSP input and using the Anthemlogic – Music setting to synthesize surround for vinyl, especially on well recorded albums, makes for a pleasing experience. The Anthemlogic tends to fill out the soundstage without ruining the stereo imaging. If you do go for the D2v, you might want to try it on occasion.


----------



## jayray

By not using ARC when playing anything in your room is, from my experience, reducing the sound quality substantially. Great room with mediocre speakers is better than great speakers in a poor room. Unless one's room is excellent on it's own, I would recommend Analog DSP. When compared with Analog direct no one I have demoed for has chosen anything but with ARC. Don't underestimate what it brings to the table









John


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Piero in Anthem Tech Support had me upgrade to 2.08h in the hopes that it would solve it, because with their Panasonic TV, they cannot reproduce the problem under 2.08h on a D2v. However, they were able to reproduce the problem with an AVM50 running 1.33. In any case, I did the upgrade, and still have the exact same problem, no improvement. Here are the steps I followed.


1. Disconnected all HDMI sources and HDMI output to TV.

2. Reloaded factory defaults on D2V.

3. Took upgrade to 2.08h (upgrade successful).

4. Reloaded saved User Settings.

5. Reconnected all HDMI in's and out.

6. Rebooted D2V.

7. Tested Pioneer 79avi and Anthem BLX-200 with TV off and using a simple 2-channel CD on the 79avi and a BluRay concert disc on the BLX200 (both with no luck, just as before).

8. Emailed Piero the results.


Frustrating for sure. I really do believe there was something about the old HDMI Repeater option in Source Setup pre-1.29j with the old D2 that was the reason I never had this problem prior.


Otherwise, the system sounds and looks fantastic.

-Brian


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18460437
> 
> 
> Piero in Anthem Tech Support had me upgrade to 2.08h in the hopes that it would solve it, because with their Panasonic TV, they cannot reproduce the problem under 2.08h on a D2v. However, they were able to reproduce the problem with an AVM50 running 1.33. In any case, I did the upgrade, and still have the exact same problem, no improvement. Here are the steps I followed.
> 
> 
> 1. Disconnected all HDMI sources and HDMI output to TV.
> 
> 2. Reloaded factory defaults on D2V.
> 
> 3. Took upgrade to 2.08h (upgrade successful).
> 
> 4. Reloaded saved User Settings.
> 
> 5. Reconnected all HDMI in's and out.
> 
> 6. Rebooted D2V.
> 
> 7. Tested Pioneer 79avi and Anthem BLX-200 with TV off and using a simple 2-channel CD on the 79avi and a BluRay concert disc on the BLX200 (both with no luck, just as before).
> 
> 8. Emailed Piero the results.
> 
> 
> Frustrating for sure. I really do believe there was something about the old HDMI Repeater option in Source Setup pre-1.29j with the old D2 that was the reason I never had this problem prior.
> 
> 
> Otherwise, the system sounds and looks fantastic.
> 
> -Brian



Hi Brian,


Just an idea, do a new setting for your player (if connected DVD1 go DVD3 for exemple, DVD2 I suppose is your BD Anthem) and assign HDMI2 for output. Like somebody else here, I think is a form of CEC protocol between your player and your TV through the D2V.


Regards.


----------



## jamulian

I have the 50v, but still waiting for the A5. I was jut wondering if I need to run both.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/18461339
> 
> 
> I have the 50v, but still waiting for the A5. I was jut wondering if I need to run both.



If you have both, run PBK first to do the heavy lifting. You have to use the same mic positions as ARC. Since you will have a very good sub response to start with, ARC will just fine tune the response a little bit more. You can use ARC alone and be delighted with it.


----------



## 13ege

Thank you all for answers. I have no doubts about d2v's music performance will make me very pleased after onkyo 3007 now.


I forgot that pwd has xlr outputs, and yes I'll certainly use xlr outputs to d2v balanced inputs.(I assume xlr is better than rca, right?)


----------



## benleeys

Ok, folks. Been resisting the lure of the D2v for months now. Have finally thrown in the towel and ordered a unit. Got only you fellas constantly touting it's superlatives to blame for it.










One D2 for sale!


Ben


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18462396
> 
> 
> Thank you all for answers. I have no doubts about d2v's music performance will make me very pleased after onkyo 3007 now.
> 
> 
> I forgot that pwd has xlr outputs, and yes I'll certainly use xlr outputs to d2v balanced inputs.(I assume xlr is better than rca, right?)



Oh yes. when I switched from RCA to balanced cables the whole soundstage opened up. Also use balanced cables from the D2v output to the amp (if your amp has balanced inputs) even if the two are in close proximity.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18460787
> 
> 
> Hi Brian,
> 
> 
> Just an idea, do a new setting for your player (if connected DVD1 go DVD3 for exemple, DVD2 I suppose is your BD Anthem) and assign HDMI2 for output. Like somebody else here, I think is a form of CEC protocol between your player and your TV through the D2V.
> 
> 
> Regards.



Mike, interesting idea. So, I've created a DVD3 "source" using the same HDMI input from the Pioneer 79avi as the *only* input, basically disabling all other things like Component, s-video, everything I could disable other than Digital HDMI and the proper HDMI input number. I have assigned a Video Output of Video Config 2 (which is unused). But I don't see where I could assign HDMI2 for output as you mention. Maybe I'm just missing it, but I couldn't find that. Instead, I have assigned Vid Config 2 to be Preferred of Component instead of HDMI, but there is no option to choose HDMI2 output port. I basically chose a bunch of Component settings, and I don't use component in Zone 1 at all to the TV, so I figured it would avoid any sort of HDMI crap to the display when choosing this source DVD3.


However...same problems as before, I really thought this might work, but no luck. Unless you can tell me how you mean to "choose HDMI2 for output".


Thanks Mike, it's always worth a try.

-Brian


----------



## jayray




13ege said:


> Thank you all for answers. I have no doubts about d2v's music performance will make me very pleased after onkyo 3007 now.
> 
> 
> I forgot that pwd has xlr outputs, and yes I'll certainly use xlr outputs to d2v balanced inputs.(I assume xlr is better than rca, right?)[/gQUOTE]
> 
> 
> For long runs but otherwise it is up to you, good rca's will do just as good a job. The engineers at Anthem gave me this advice when I was considering the same thing.
> 
> John


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18462397
> 
> 
> Ok, folks. Been resisting the lure of the D2v for months now.
> 
> 
> Ben


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18462961
> 
> 
> Mike, interesting idea. So, I've created a DVD3 "source" using the same HDMI input from the Pioneer 79avi as the *only* input, basically disabling all other things like Component, s-video, everything I could disable other than Digital HDMI and the proper HDMI input number. I have assigned a Video Output of Video Config 2 (which is unused). But I don't see where I could assign HDMI2 for output as you mention. Maybe I'm just missing it, but I couldn't find that. Instead, I have assigned Vid Config 2 to be Preferred of Component instead of HDMI, but there is no option to choose HDMI2 output port. I basically chose a bunch of Component settings, and I don't use component in Zone 1 at all to the TV, so I figured it would avoid any sort of HDMI crap to the display when choosing this source DVD3.
> 
> 
> However...same problems as before, I really thought this might work, but no luck. Unless you can tell me how you mean to "choose HDMI2 for output".
> 
> 
> Thanks Mike, it's always worth a try.
> 
> -Brian



Brian,


In the DVD3 source setup, - change scaler input HDM1 to HDMI2.

The idea was to use HDMI2 without to connect to your TV.

Thanks.


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18463325
> 
> 
> Brian,
> 
> 
> In the DVD3 source setup, - change scaler input HDM1 to HDMI2.
> 
> The idea was to use HDMI2 without to connect to your TV.
> 
> Thanks.



Brian,


I was wrong, both HDMI outputs work in parallel, so no luck. I still remain with some reminiscences from my former Marantz.


----------



## 13ege




jayray said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18462396
> 
> 
> Thank you all for answers. I have no doubts about d2v's music performance will make me very pleased after onkyo 3007 now.
> 
> 
> I forgot that pwd has xlr outputs, and yes I'll certainly use xlr outputs to d2v balanced inputs.(I assume xlr is better than rca, right?)[/gQUOTE]
> 
> 
> For long runs but otherwise it is up to you, good rca's will do just as good a job. The engineers at Anthem gave me this advice when I was considering the same thing.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pwd and a2-a5 combo will be placed very close to d2v. If it only makes difference for long runs, I prefer to go with good rca's because they are cheaper. Good xlr cables are expensive... But lower distortion etc.. is confusing me. My dealer also recommended xlr's.
Click to expand...


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/18463215



Now he tell's me! Could have saved me the months of anguish. Sob.


----------



## Warpdrv

Remove all doubt - these are great xlr's for a reasonable price http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...02&cp_id=10244


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18463532
> 
> 
> Now he tell's me! Could have saved me the months of anguish. Sob.




LOL....










Congrats buddy, welcome to the club...


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/18463536
> 
> 
> Remove all doubt - these are great xlr's for a reasonable price http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...02&cp_id=10244



Agreed. Those are the same cables that I am using and they work great. No need to spend big $ on XLR cables. The Monoprice cables are fine.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18462961
> 
> 
> it's always worth a try.
> 
> -Brian



Have you turnded off iLink in your pioneer dvd?

Have you turned off iLink standby in your sony?


I still believe this smells like a CEC problem. I think it's worth a try.

I'm not trying to be a PITA, but it will take very little time to go into the pioneer and sony menu's and turn the iLink settings off.

If you have done this and it didn't work then let me know and I swear I'll stop bothering you.


Tom


----------



## jayray

[/quote]pwd and a2-a5 combo will be placed very close to d2v. If it only makes difference for long runs, I prefer to go with good rca's because they are cheaper. Good xlr cables are expensive... But lower distortion etc.. is confusing me. My dealer also recommended xlr's.[/quote]


My advice came from people who don't sell cables or don't have them therefore don't need to justify their choice. The anthem gear has the capability but it isn't necessary because most people don't need them but for those who fit into the long run or lots of cables running over them with interference galore. This isn't typical of most home theatres so it is unlikely you could tell any diff. Ultimately it is your decision. Good luck with it.

John


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/18463688
> 
> 
> Have you turnded off iLink in your pioneer dvd?
> 
> Have you turned off iLink standby in your sony?
> 
> 
> I still believe this smells like a CEC problem. I think it's worth a try.
> 
> I'm not trying to be a PITA, but it will take very little time to go into the pioneer and sony menu's and turn the iLink settings off.
> 
> If you have done this and it didn't work then let me know and I swear I'll stop bothering you.
> 
> 
> Tom



Hey Tom,


Yes iLink Standby on the Sony has always been disabled, and iLink on the Pioneer is explicitly set to Off. Still no luck with it.


Thanks for the suggestions though. Worth checking always.

-Brian


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18462397
> 
> 
> Ok, folks. Been resisting the lure of the D2v for months now. Have finally thrown in the towel and ordered a unit. Got only you fellas constantly touting it's superlatives to blame for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One D2 for sale!
> 
> 
> Ben



I assume they are not doing the upgrade anymore then?


----------



## Max Spivak

What's the latest pricing for D2 -> D2v upgrade from Anthem?


Is the upgrade worth the price?


----------



## pgiralt

My D2V should be arriving this week and I was wondering if there is there a consolidated list of tips and tricks for first time Anthem owners. I'd love to read through the 27k posts on this thread but that might take some time


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pgiralt* /forum/post/18468334
> 
> 
> My D2V should be arriving this week and I was wondering if there is there a consolidated list of tips and tricks for first time Anthem owners. I'd love to read through the 27k posts on this thread but that might take some time



Whatever Happened to reading the *VERY FIRST POST* in this Thread


----------



## pgiralt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18468401
> 
> 
> Whatever Happened to reading the *VERY FIRST POST* in this Thread



Sorry - I probably deserve that. I should have mentioned that I have read the first post (and have been trying to keep up with this thread for a couple of months now) and while there are a few things there, it's not exactly what I was looking for. I was wondering if there happened to be a list of "must do" things when you get it out of the box. I'm sure there are lots of settings that are a "best practice" to set a certain way and over time folks on this thread have determined the best settings for specific features. For a lot of others I'm sure it will largely depend on my specific setup and components.


If no one has done this yet, I think I might try to gather up all the ARC posts that are listed in the first post and try to create a single document that consolidates all that data.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pgiralt* /forum/post/18468639
> 
> 
> I was wondering if there happened to be a list of "must do" things when you get it out of the box.



I think you are making this overly complicated.


Download the Manual and read it now - if you haven't already done so.


This stuff is not rocket science.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18469227
> 
> 
> I think you are making this overly complicated.
> 
> 
> Download the Manual and read it now - if you haven't already done so.
> 
> 
> This stuff is not rocket science.



No it is not rocket science, but it can be intimidating when you have just spent a lot of money on a piece of equipment.


Part of the purpose of forums is to help others and the fact that there are a lot of questions from people about setup indicates that manuals, though quite good in this case, are still not 100% clear.


So advice without the barbed tongue might be nice.


----------



## jamulian

I am in the market for a good CD player for my AVM 50v and A5. I am currently using my Blueray player and I know I am not getting quality sound out of the unit. I really want the Meridian Solo, but that isn't in the budget right now.

Thanks.


----------



## SMabille_UK

Hi Jamulian,


You are looking for a CD player with DAC superior to the AVM50v ones and connect it via Analog-Bypass? (you would lost ARC and the impact might be bigger than the gain provided by best of breed CD player).


You can try to OPPO BDP-83 SE or Nuforce SE, not purely CD (do HDCD and SACD, and Blueray) but have very good DAC.


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/18470878
> 
> 
> I am in the market for a good CD player for my AVM 50v and A5. I am currently using my Blueray player and I know I am not getting quality sound out of the unit. I really want the Meridian Solo, but that isn't in the budget right now.
> 
> Thanks.



I use a Rotel RCD-1072 connected AnlgDSP, very nice sound, very good rapport quality/price. Now is replaced with RCD-1520, in the same league but with some aditionnal Wolson DAC in top of Burr-Brown.

Thanks.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18424227
> 
> 
> I notice that my DVD player stops transmitting digital HDMI to the D2V if I turn my TV off. Very annoying - it tries to sync, but never gets out of the stopping/starting of music while the handshake never levels out. This happens when I use my DVD player to play DTS CD's, DVD-Audio discs, or even simple plain old CD's...in all cases, the audio is set to Digital HDMI for that source, with Auto Digital set to No...it was doing it when it was set to Yes as well, doesn't seem to make a difference. I've tried stopping the disc, rebooting the player, rebooting the D2V, switching sources and then back, etc.
> 
> 
> I really don't want to have my TV on just to listen to good DTS CD's, DVD-Audio's, or CD's from this source. The DVD player in question is a Pioneer 79avi.
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



Here are a couple of suggestions from a fellow Qualia owner who never has had any problems like this.


1. Unplug the HDMI output cable from the D2v or the input of the

Qualia and see if your Pioneer 79avi works with the tv disconnected.


2. Try switching the HDMI cable to the other Qualia input.


3. Recheck your D2v setup for the correct video output which should

be Config 1


3. Recheck your Source set up for the Pioneer 79avi for Audio only

which I would imagine is DVD2 since DVD1 would be Video for DVDs


b. Vid Out CNFG: 1 (Not Last Used)

c. Scaler Input: None (Audio Only)

d. Component: None (Audio Only)

e. S-Video In : None

f. Composite In: None

g. Audio In: Dig (HDMI Input for DD, DTS & Multichannel )

You can set the CD source to HDMI

input too.)

h. Auto Dig: NO

i. HDMI Map: Auto


The rest are self explanatory.


Let me know what your results are.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A little pressed for time right now, so this is a "Post and Run"....


Early press coverage is starting to come out saying that Anthem will launch 2 of a planned 4 "receiver" products at a trade show in New York on June 22. Pricing and feature details are not mentioned, however both reports I've seen say that they will include HDMI V1.4 and 3D.


One report says they will include ARC. The other says the HDMI V1.4 implementation includes the "Audio Return Channel" feature (e.g., send bitstream audio BACK on the HDMI link to the Anthem from the tuner in a TV for example) and makes no mention of ARC. So I wonder if there isn't some naming confusion going on here.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/18472030
> 
> 
> Here are a couple of suggestions from a fellow Qualia owner who never has had any problems like this.
> 
> 
> 1. Unplug the HDMI output cable from the D2v or the input of the
> 
> Qualia and see if your Pioneer 79avi works with the tv disconnected.
> 
> 
> 2. Try switching the HDMI cable to the other Qualia input.
> 
> 
> 3. Recheck your D2v setup for the correct video output which should
> 
> be Config 1
> 
> 
> 3. Recheck your Source set up for the Pioneer 79avi for Audio only
> 
> which I would imagine is DVD2 since DVD1 would be Video for DVDs
> 
> 
> b. Vid Out CNFG: 1 (Not Last Used)
> 
> c. Scaler Input: None (Audio Only)
> 
> d. Component: None (Audio Only)
> 
> e. S-Video In : None
> 
> f. Composite In: None
> 
> g. Audio In: Dig (HDMI Input for DD, DTS & Multichannel )
> 
> You can set the CD source to HDMI
> 
> input too.)
> 
> h. Auto Dig: NO
> 
> i. HDMI Map: Auto
> 
> 
> The rest are self explanatory.
> 
> 
> Let me know what your results are.



Stew, thanks for helping. Couple things though.


1. Already tried this, as noted in an earlier post, it works beautifully if I either detach the HDMI output from the D2V to the TV, or remove the HDMI end at the TV side. Problem goes away when there is no HDMI cable connection between TV and D2V.


2. GREAT IDEA! I actually thought you might be on to something by changing the input on the Qualia side to the other HDMI input...because one has rca audio with it and one doesn't...unfortunately, that was not the trick, it still didn't work when I switched to Input 7 from input 6 on the Qualia HDMI port side.


3. Roger that, it's good there.


4. I doublechecked my settings here and all are good...but a note of correction here for you - you cannot choose None for Scaler Input and also choose Digital HDMI for your Audio in...you lose the option for Dig HDMI if you do that. So, I had to leave scaler input on HDMI1 for the DVD3 input. Also, there is no HDMI map anymore.


Stew, do you have a D2 or a D2V? What version of software are you running? I had been on 2.08 now on 2.08h at support's recommendation.


Thanks for the ideas here, but still no workie...


Brian


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18473683
> 
> 
> A little pressed for time right now, so this is a "Post and Run"....
> 
> 
> Early press coverage is starting to come out saying that Anthem will launch 2 of a planned 4 "receiver" products at a trade show in New York on June 22. Pricing and feature details are not mentioned, however both reports I've seen say that they will include HDMI V1.4 and 3D.
> 
> 
> One report says they will include ARC. The other says the HDMI V1.4 implementation includes the "Audio Return Channel" feature (e.g., send bitstream audio BACK on the HDMI link to the Anthem from the tuner in a TV for example) and makes no mention of ARC. So I wonder if there isn't some naming confusion going on here.
> 
> --Bob



Maybe. But HDMI 1.4 spec does include the "Audio Return Channel" to eliminate the S/PDIF audio connection for TV. I would imagine they have both Anthem ARC and HDMI 1.4 specs that include the "Audio Return Channel".


So this maybe a preview of a new AVM D3/60v or some indication of what one might look like as well. Kind of exciting and something to look forward to. Thanks Bob!


----------



## Warren460

prior to purchasing my D2v a few weeks back, I had some email dialogue with Athem representatives. I was advised that there is nothing with HDMI 1.4 under development at this time.


Accordingly, I find the post about new products very strange.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pgiralt* /forum/post/18468639
> 
> 
> Sorry - I probably deserve that. I should have mentioned that I have read the first post (and have been trying to keep up with this thread for a couple of months now) and while there are a few things there, it's not exactly what I was looking for. I was wondering if there happened to be a list of "must do" things when you get it out of the box. I'm sure there are lots of settings that are a "best practice" to set a certain way and over time folks on this thread have determined the best settings for specific features. For a lot of others I'm sure it will largely depend on my specific setup and components.
> 
> 
> If no one has done this yet, I think I might try to gather up all the ARC posts that are listed in the first post and try to create a single document that consolidates all that data.



I don't think you deserved that, but then again that's drhankz.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18473683
> 
> 
> A little pressed for time right now, so this is a "Post and Run"....
> 
> 
> Early press coverage is starting to come out saying that Anthem will launch 2 of a planned 4 "receiver" products at a trade show in New York on June 22. Pricing and feature details are not mentioned, however both reports I've seen say that they will include HDMI V1.4 and 3D.
> 
> 
> One report says they will include ARC. The other says the HDMI V1.4 implementation includes the "Audio Return Channel" feature (e.g., send bitstream audio BACK on the HDMI link to the Anthem from the tuner in a TV for example) and makes no mention of ARC. So I wonder if there isn't some naming confusion going on here.
> 
> --Bob



My sources tell me ARC will be part of these receivers but due to the DSP power being less than the AVM 50v and D2v, ARC in these receivers will have fewer filters but similar algorithms as full blown ARC. I also hear it will be better than the version of Audessey in similarly priced receivers









John


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warren460* /forum/post/18474346
> 
> 
> prior to purchasing my D2v a few weeks back, I had some email dialogue with Athem representatives. I was advised that there is nothing with HDMI 1.4 under development at this time.
> 
> 
> Accordingly, I find the post about new products very strange.



I had a similar experience some weeks back with Anthem as I would like to buy but hate to purchase with and en-evadable update that I would expect to come at CEDIA.


Really, are you going to release new receivers that are HDMI 1.4 compliant and leave your "flagship" without the update for very long?


The D2v and 50v are fantastic products. But let's face it, the design is a little long in the tooth and could use some freshening up; maybe add a dim-able display, new remote, etc.


Anthem is a fantastic company with great customer service. Looks like the website has just been updated too. I'm sure there are new things coming soon.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *b curry* /forum/post/18474567
> 
> 
> I had a similar experience some weeks back with Anthem as I would like to buy but hate to purchase with and en-evadable update that I would expect to come at CEDIA.
> 
> 
> Really, are you going to release new receivers that are HDMI 1.4 compliant and leave your "flagship" without the update for very long?
> 
> 
> The D2v and 50v are fantastic products. But let's face it, the design is a little long in the tooth and could use some freshening up; *maybe add a dim-able display, new remote*, etc.
> 
> 
> Anthem is a fantastic company with great customer service. Looks like the website has just been updated too. I'm sure there are new things coming soon.



I thought the D2v had a remote update from the D2?

I have a D2 and the display is "dim-able" and with a timer function to full off.

I have to disagree that these products are "long in the tooth".

Look around, what do other pre-pros or receivers have that Anthems don't have?

To me only the Denon and the Integras are real contenders.

Classe makes great stuff but they don't have room correction.

I know of one store that quite carrying their gear because of the(at the time) suck software.

If you look at the dismal failure of Sherwood which also caused Outlaw to cancel their pre-pro plus Parasound just cancelled theirs and Emotiva's issues. I haven't kept track of Cary but they certainly had a litany of issues.

Right now I don't give a sh!t about HDMI 1.4 or 3D but that's just me.

I've seen 2 3D movies and it really did nothing for me except make my temples tight like I was watching a 2x DLP in 2003.

All in all I'm pretty damn glad I bought an Anthem, long on the tooth or not.


----------



## ASW

They are still doing upgrades. I just upgraded to a D2v last month (I think it was $4,200 to go from a D2 with ARC to a D2v).


As usual, Anthem was a pleasure to deal with.


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/18474713
> 
> 
> I thought the D2v had a remote update from the D2?
> 
> I have a D2 and the display is "dim-able" and with a timer function to full off.
> 
> I have to disagree that these products are "long in the tooth".
> 
> Look around, what do other pre-pros or receivers have that Anthems don't have?
> 
> To me only the Denon and the Integras are real contenders.
> 
> Classe makes great stuff but they don't have room correction.
> 
> I know of one store that quite carrying their gear because of the(at the time) suck software.
> 
> If you look at the dismal failure of Sherwood which also caused Outlaw to cancel their pre-pro plus Parasound just cancelled theirs and Emotiva's issues. I haven't kept track of Cary but they certainly had a litany of issues.
> 
> Right now I don't give a sh!t about HDMI 1.4 or 3D but that's just me.
> 
> I've seen 2 3D movies and it really did nothing for me except make my temples tight like I was watching a 2x DLP in 2003.
> 
> All in all I'm pretty damn glad I bought an Anthem, long on the tooth or not.



I stand corrected on the display brightness. The remote on the 50v looks like the same one thats been around since the AVM 20. The D2v does look like an up-date to some degree. My point is, it is possible to supply a remote today that does not require buttons to serve multi functions. No big deal, it works. I just think remote technology has improved and not reflected here. On the other hand, allot of people don't use the Anthem remote.


I agree, Anthem is on the short list. There is little competition at its price point.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/18474733
> 
> 
> They are still doing upgrades. I just upgraded to a D2v last month (I think it was $4,200 to go from a D2 with ARC to a D2v).
> 
> 
> As usual, Anthem was a pleasure to deal with.



Thank you. So my options are still open.




Milt99 said:


> To me only the Denon and the Integras are real contenders.
> 
> Classe makes great stuff but they don't have room correction.
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> I agree, Anthem, Denon & Integra (Onkyo) are the only really "significantly bug" free pre/pros out there and for those wishing to stay under $2500 the Integra 80.1 really is a bargain. Even companies like Halcro are stepping back and separating out audio from video. McIntosh have just introduced a $20K+ pre/pro with video and audio, Arcam has significant problems and Parasound has just cancelled their C3 and so the investment from "small" companies is just too high for the return in the market that they are targeting.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/18474713
> 
> 
> I thought the D2v had a remote update from the D2?
> 
> I have a D2 and the display is "dim-able" and with a timer function to full off.
> 
> I have to disagree that these products are "long in the tooth".
> 
> Look around, what do other pre-pros or receivers have that Anthems don't have?
> 
> To me only the Denon and the Integras are real contenders.
> 
> Classe makes great stuff but they don't have room correction.
> 
> I know of one store that quite carrying their gear because of the(at the time) suck software.
> 
> If you look at the dismal failure of Sherwood which also caused Outlaw to cancel their pre-pro plus Parasound just cancelled theirs and Emotiva's issues. I haven't kept track of Cary but they certainly had a litany of issues.
> 
> Right now I don't give a sh!t about HDMI 1.4 or 3D but that's just me.
> 
> I've seen 2 3D movies and it really did nothing for me except make my temples tight like I was watching a 2x DLP in 2003.
> 
> All in all I'm pretty damn glad I bought an Anthem, long on the tooth or not.



Well I would agree the design is a little long in the tooth in at least one respect - the lack of ethernet connectivity. Let's face it, it is a pain to deal with serial port firmware updates and the lack of ethernet means no connectivity with the various IP based sources that are becoming much more common in homes these days. And the fact is that ethernet is a feature of Anthem's most significant competitor, the Denon preamp.


As far as 3D? Who knows how that will turn out. But I'm not about to upgrade until I see a lot more quality source material in that realm. That will take years if ever to occur. Not to mention that I never buy version 1.0 of any technology.


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/18476165
> 
> 
> Well I would agree the design is a little long in the tooth in at least one respect - the lack of ethernet connectivity. Let's face it, it is a pain to deal with serial port firmware updates and the lack of ethernet means no connectivity with the various IP based sources that are becoming much more common in homes these days. And the fact is that ethernet is a feature of Anthem's most significant competitor, the Denon preamp.
> 
> 
> As far as 3D? Who knows how that will turn out. But I'm not about to upgrade until I see a lot more quality source material in that realm. That will take years if ever to occur. Not to mention that I never buy version 1.0 of any technology.



I too could care less about 3D.


But HDMI 1.4 is more than 3D.


HDMI 1.4 does add Ethernet connectivity and the "Audio Return Channel". The Audio Return Channel should have been there from the begining, HDMI 1.0. What's the point of having a single cable philosophy and then requiring a return audio cable from your TV tuner for your AV receiver or pre/pro?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *b curry* /forum/post/18476259
> 
> 
> I too could care less about 3D.
> 
> 
> But HDMI 1.4 is more than 3D.
> 
> 
> HDMI 1.4 does add Ethernet connectivity and the "Audio Return Channel". The Audio Return Channel should have been there from the begining, HDMI 1.0. What's the point of having a single cable philosophy and then requiring a return audio cable from your TV tuner for your AV receiver or pre/pro?



the receivers will have hdmi 1.4 and audio return and 3D.

John


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18476547
> 
> 
> the receivers will have hdmi 1.4 and audio return and 3D.
> 
> John



Are these truly "receivers" or are they new "pre-pro's" aka "preamp/processor's"??? There's a big difference right, in putting all your amplification into a single box with your preamp and video processing functions....I for one have always preferred to keep those 2 separate, even if many other functions are combined in a pre-pro like the D2/AVM series.


-Brian


----------



## SMabille_UK

Hi,


I'm on the verge of ordering my AVM50v, I'd like to confirm the position of the new products

Will they be:

- only lower end receivers (processor+amp) with scaled down ARC?

- an AVM50v refresh (HDMI 1.4?) worth waiting for?

- an higher end model?


The AVM50v seems to fit my requirements perfectly, except possibly HDMI 1.4 3D for the future, increase to 7.1 analog input and FM tuner is a bit outdated in this time and age...

So while I'm happy to go ahead but I'll be gutted if a DLNA client replace the tuner, and other enhancements are provided in a couple of months.


As the Dolby Volume is still beta I suspect the AVM50v still has some good years ahead.


Thanks,

Stephane


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18476547
> 
> 
> the receivers will have hdmi 1.4 and audio return and 3D.
> 
> John



HDMI Ethernet is not included?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18476594
> 
> 
> Are these truly "receivers" or are they new "pre-pro's" aka "preamp/processor's"??? There's a big difference right, in putting all your amplification into a single box with your preamp and video processing functions....I for one have always preferred to keep those 2 separate, even if many other functions are combined in a pre-pro like the D2/AVM series.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Brian,

Yes they are receivers not pre/pros. I suspect their build quality will be better than some comparably priced receivers according to my source.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *b curry* /forum/post/18476798
> 
> 
> HDMI Ethernet is not included?



Haven't heard anything about that. If I hear I'll post something.

John


----------



## GangGreenD

My local dealer thinks that the receivers will be (are being) built in china. At the lower price points, I could see this. Anyone else hear this?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GangGreenD* /forum/post/18478862
> 
> 
> My local dealer thinks that the receivers will be (are being) built in china. At the lower price points, I could see this. Anyone else hear this?



this is true but under the direction of Anthem in terms of build quality. I also know that they will have Internet Radio.

John


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18479638
> 
> 
> this is true but under the direction of Anthem in terms of build quality. *I also know that they will have Internet Radio.*
> 
> John



It would seem that would indicate a WiFi or Ethernet connection or both. I would guess the HDMI 1.4 implementation will also include the HDMI Ethernet connection then.

http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_1_4/hec.aspx


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/18476165
> 
> 
> Well I would agree the design is a little long in the tooth in at least one respect - the lack of ethernet connectivity. *Let's face it, it is a pain to deal with serial port firmware* updates and the lack of ethernet means no connectivity with the various IP based sources that are becoming much more common in homes these days. And the fact is that ethernet is a feature of Anthem's most significant competitor, the Denon preamp.
> 
> 
> As far as 3D? Who knows how that will turn out. But I'm not about to upgrade until I see a lot more quality source material in that realm. That will take years if ever to occur. Not to mention that I never buy version 1.0 of any technology.



You'll get no argument from me on that. I've been bitching about the RS-232 for years. No excuse for at least USB.

They should've done it with the D2 and moved on.

My main point was the vast majority all pre-pros on the market frankly stink or more accurately, their software stinks and stinks bad.

And it doesn't matter what the price tag is.

Lexicon used to be the platinum standard. Wanna talk about long in the tooth.

Although the people that still own them babble on about the superior sound quality.

Please, the latest Lexicon product is a $4k Oppo BDP-83. I mean how can they look themselves in the mirror and who would be stupendously stupid enough to buy one.

Jeez I'm getting carried away here sorry.


----------



## JimmyTango

Remember, with USB you now have to create and maintain drivers.


While USB is the better and easier connection type, that is on the end users side, not on the manufacturer's side.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *b curry* /forum/post/18479713
> 
> 
> It would seem that would indicate a WiFi or Ethernet connection or both. I would guess the HDMI 1.4 implementation will also include the HDMI Ethernet connection then.
> 
> http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_1_4/hec.aspx



I believe that to be true.

John


----------



## rudolpht




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warren460* /forum/post/18474346
> 
> 
> prior to purchasing my D2v a few weeks back, I had some email dialogue with Athem representatives. I was advised that there is nothing with HDMI 1.4 under development at this time.
> 
> 
> Accordingly, I find the post about new products very strange.



Then I would suggest your dealer didn't know or wanted to move product. The way the industry works seems to be less transparent all the time.


From HomeTheaterReview.com



> Quote:
> Anthem is expanding into a new category in consumer electronics with the world wide launch of their new receiver line. At this year's CEA Line Show in New York, Anthem will display the first two of four brand new A/V receivers, launching in June. The first two models being launched are the MRX 500 and the MRX 700 and will feature HDMI 1.4 with 3D support and Audio Return Channel.
> 
> 
> 
> All models will be equipped with Anthem's award winning Room Correction system. The CEA Line Show will take place in New York City on June 22-23, 2010. The official mid-year conference and tech showcase for the CE industry, the CEA Line Show is a trade-only event that has attracted more than 1,000 media and NY-area retailers. Official specs and pricing will be available when the receivers make their debut at the CEA Line Show in June 2010.



Receivers or pre-pros or receivers used as pre-pros I would wait to see all 4 products. Hopefully 9.2 makes it in this refresh.


----------



## veneziana

someone have a hi-fi pc connected with D2V? it must use a external DAC? or D2V go well?

thanks


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veneziana* /forum/post/18487787
> 
> 
> someone have a hi-fi pc connected with D2V? it must use a external DAC? or D2V go well?
> 
> thanks



I am not sure what defines a hifi PC, but...


I have a Mac Mini running Plex connected to my D1 in two ways, directly via optical and also through Musical Fidelity's V-DAC which is a relatively cheap but in my opinion good DAC that I use for the Pool, Office & Dining Zones of the house since and both ways work well and sound good. I am sure that the D2V will only sound better than the D1.


How you store the files you want to play back probably matters just as much as anything. I personally use FLAC nearly all the time but also use ALC on occasion and even 320mps MP3 when there is no other alternative.


----------



## mkaye

Got my xovers back from Paradigm & the graphs look better now

i want to experiment with the fronts (& maybe some corner traps) to see if i can get tame the humps in the bass & not have ARC work so hard

LF concerns me > 7K

i am also concerned about the surrounds > 5K - not sure what i can do with the dipoles


mark


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18488800
> 
> 
> Got my xovers back from Paradigm & the graphs look better now
> 
> i want to experiment with the fronts (& maybe some corner traps) to see if i can get tame the humps in the bass & not have ARC work so hard
> 
> LF concerns me > 7K
> 
> i am also concerned about the surrounds > 5K - not sure what i can do with the dipoles
> 
> 
> mark



If you have a symmetrical room,the speakers are equidistant from the side walls and the basic microphone measurement points are mirror image of the RF speaker then it would be a concern. But if the opposite is true, it might just because of different mic positioning. Still, I would feed both LR Fronts with pink noise and try to hear if the left tweeter is functioning properly.


----------



## MajorJuggler

I had just started a new thread for this question earlier, but this looks like a more appropriate place for this question...


Has anyone been able to read the calibration data included with the ARC/PBK disk? I want to use the mic to make my own measurements, which requires knowing the cal data to get meaningful results. At a minimum I want to use it to properly blend the sub with the mains. I'de also like to verify the post-EQ results, which is impossible with the PBK-1.


I sent an email in to Paradigm yesterday concerning this, and their response was simply:


"We can not support the use of the mic for any other purpose than the PBK kit."


I've never heard of anyone selling a calibrated mic, and then intentionally making it worthless unless you're using their software. To say that I'm disappointed is an understatement.


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MajorJuggler* /forum/post/18491519
> 
> 
> ...Has anyone been able to read the calibration data included with the ARC/PBK disk? I want to use the mic to make my own measurements, which requires knowing the cal data to get meaningful results...



I personally wouldn't mess with that mic. Get yourself a real mic like the Earthworks M30 http://www.earthworksaudio.com/27.html Or alternatively get the Behringer ECM 8000 http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/ECM8000.aspx and modify it as described here http://www.directap.com/Microphones.htm The advantage to getting the M30 is that you can pay an extra $50 or so and get the calibration curve. Either the M30 or the modified ECM8000 will be pretty accurate without the curve. You can calibrate mics yourself using a spark gap but that's just too much work. Buy the Earthworks get its curve and be done with it. Then if you want extras just modify some Behringers and use the M30 to calibrate those.


As for measurement software I would suggest Arta http://www.fesb.hr/~mateljan/arta/ I've used several measurement systems like MLSSA, Praxis, and others but Arta is by far the best of the lot. It works very well with the Emu Tracker Pre sound card. http://www.emu.com/products/product....&product=17511 .


As for Paradigm selling a calibrated mic and making it useless except for their software, you have to consider this is not what they are doing. They are selling the software and simply including the mic. So you really can't look at it that way. The unmodified Behringer and most likely the Paradigm are pretty high distortion so you really don't want to be using that anyway. This doesn't really impact their ability to accurately measure frequency response much but with either the modified Behringer or the M30 you can also measure your speakers distortion. You likely wouldn't be able to do that with the Paradigm mic except maybe at the bottom end of the woofers range where its distortion would likely be significantly higher than the mic distortion.


mk


----------



## mkaye

the room is 13 1/2' x 24', so not symmetrical

a little bit of room treatments to limit 1st reflections from the sidewalls

carpeted, cathedral ceiling going up away from the fronts

i'll check the tweeter


mark



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18490152
> 
> 
> If you have a symmetrical room,the speakers are equidistant from the side walls and the basic microphone measurement points are mirror image of the RF speaker then it would be a concern. But if the opposite is true, it might just because of different mic positioning. Still, I would feed both LR Fronts with pink noise and try to hear if the left tweeter is functioning properly.


----------



## MajorJuggler

Thanks for the leads Montekay, good information.



> Quote:
> As for Paradigm selling a calibrated mic and making it useless except for their software, you have to consider this is not what they are doing.



Not to pick too much on semantics, but that is exactly what they are doing. Their marketing literature has "calibrated microphone" written all over it. The industry standard for selling a calibrated mic is to make the calibration data user accessible. No reasonable individual would look at their literature and then assume that they could only use the mic with the PBK s/w. So their _intention_ to cripple the mic is (at best) deceptive marketing, and is immaterial to uninformed potential customers that are considering Paradigm subs/EQ. Regardless, it's a philosophical discussion that doesn't help me...



> Quote:
> This doesn't really impact their ability to accurately measure frequency response much but with either the modified Behringer or the M30 you can also measure your speakers distortion.



Although measuring speaker distortion would be a nice bonus feature, my primary goal is to properly blend the sub/mains crossover and get spatially dependent post-EQ room curves. The (calibrated) PBK-1 mic is more than capable of doing this. It doesn't make any sense to me, that I now have to spend $600+ just to do the crossover correctly with (a different) calibrated mic.



> Quote:
> As for measurement software I would suggest...



Thanks for the suggestion, but I can make my own measurement scripts in Matlab.











> Quote:
> You can calibrate mics yourself using a spark gap



I'm going to reverse-engineer what the calibration curves are by comparing the calibrated frequency response, to the uncalibrated frequency response. The former can be obtained directly from the PBK-1 s/w, and the latter can be obtained by simultaneously recording the chirps via windows recorder and then post-processing the results (Matlab). It's possible for the PBK-1 and windows recorder to both record from the mic simultaneously, I just tried it. Other than being a little time-intensive, the only real drawback to this approach is that I only get the cal data for lower frequencies, whereas the actual cal data likely includes the entire audio band. But it's good enough for what I'm looking to do. I'll report back with the results when I have them.


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MajorJuggler* /forum/post/18493366
> 
> 
> Not to pick too much on semantics, but that is exactly what they are doing. Their marketing literature has "calibrated microphone" written all over it...
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion, but I can make my own measurement scripts in Matlab.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to reverse-engineer what the calibration curves are by comparing the calibrated frequency response, to the uncalibrated frequency response.



Ok, I had not looked at the marketing for this product but I will tell you this. I owned ARC for my D2 well beyond any return period and once it was discovered it could not work in my system, they happily allowed me to return it so don't be too hard on them. I suspect they will do the same for you.


Making your own measurement software...







I can't even write one of those simple programs to come back, "hello world" and get it to work. I wish I had your software writing abilities.


You are calibrating a sub and thus may not have access to the drive signal going to the woofer. If so you could just measure the transfer function using Matlab and know exactly what corrections it made. I guess you could pull the woofer to access it's terminals but you may not be as into taking things apart as I am so your comparison of the two measurements is probably the most practical way.


mk


----------



## MajorJuggler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/18493673
> 
> 
> You are calibrating a sub and thus may not have access to the drive signal going to the woofer. If so you could just measure the transfer function using Matlab and know exactly what corrections it made. I guess you could pull the woofer to access it's terminals but you may not be as into taking things apart as I am so your comparison of the two measurements is probably the most practical way.
> 
> 
> mk



Ha, no, I wasn't planning on disassembling my Sub12! Nor do I need to, thankfully. I have the same acoustic signal recorded in two places (PBK results and .wav), and one of them has applied the calibration curve. Therefore, the transfer function between the two *is* the acoustic mic's cal curve, provided I use the same transformation that they did to get from the time domain to the frequency domain. The source of the acoustic signal doesn't matter, but for accurate results I'll want good signal to noise ratio, and minimum room mode excitation.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem has always maintained its silence regarding the inner workings of ARC, and that includes how they process the mic input to yield accurate results for this specific application.


One thing to keep in mind if you poke around in your mic calibration data file is that it is quite possible some of the calibration info is not in that file. There may be a basic, generic, calibration curve built into the ARC application that the mic-specific file simply refines.


There's some evidence of that: Towards the end of 2008, Anthem started shipping a generic "RecalibrationData" file as part of the ARC install -- generic in the sense that everyone got the same file rather than it being mic specific. Presumably this new file altered what the application did with the mic-specific calibration file for both old and new ARC owners, but of course that can only be a guess.


When comparing the ARC charts to whatever you might get with some other tool, it is also useful to know that the ARC charts are a simple (unweighted) average of the what the mic hears over all of the mic positions. So keep the ARC mic at the same position for all 5 Measurement passes when trying something like this. This won't yield a useful ARC result -- ARC needs the spacing between the mic positions to do that -- but it will make the charts more comparable to what some other tool might show you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18488800
> 
> 
> Got my xovers back from Paradigm & the graphs look better now
> 
> i want to experiment with the fronts (& maybe some corner traps) to see if i can get tame the humps in the bass & not have ARC work so hard
> 
> LF concerns me > 7K
> 
> i am also concerned about the surrounds > 5K - not sure what i can do with the dipoles
> 
> 
> mark



These definitely look better.


I agree with your concern about the high end of LF. One easy way to check that (presuming your ear-close test says the tweeter is firing at all) is to swap LF and RF. If the problem moves with the speaker then it is a speaker issue. If your crossovers were flakey, I suppose it's possible you lost or damaged the LF tweeter.


As for the low end of LF/RF/C (mostly LF/RF) one thing you might want to try is to tell ARC to LOWER the "cutoff" (and thus also the crossover) for them. Don't set them to "Full Range", just experiment with a lower cutoff value. This will tell ARC to use more of that low frequency energy instead of trying to roll it off. Now you could lower the LF/RF cutoff all the way to 25Hz based on how they Measure, but I don't recommend you do that. Even though they can produce subsonic frequencies, it is a rare main speaker that can produce those at volume. So I'd lower the cutoff to no lower than 30Hz, or even 35Hz and see how that alters the solution. (The sub will take steered bass from them below that.) There's no problem having different cutoffs for Center and the Surrounds. For example, you probably don't want to lower Center much at all, but I could see dropping it another 10Hz.


Next time you post, please remember to capture and post your Targets window as well.


Now with LF/RF/C using more of their bass output, it may be easier to raise Max EQ Frequency to get additional correction for the high end of all the speakers. You could easily raise ARC's upper correction limit from the default 5KHz to 12KHz, and quite possibly all the way to 20KHz. Then see whether you like the resulting sound.


Your sub has a peak at 24Hz that's giving ARC some trouble. If it removes that peak their will be more undershoot at 20Hz. This could easily be "boundary gain" -- i.e, the sub a bit too close to the wall/corner behind it. So some repositioning experiments might be worth the effort. It's even possible you may get improvement by moving the sub CLOSER to the wall/corner to move that peak down further towards 20Hz.


Keep in mind that you can speed things up by telling ARC to use only LF/RF/Sub. When you get candidate positioning, then do the full Measurement.


Your Surrounds are a bit weak in bass and your sub doesn't go quite high enough to completely support them. From the charts it looks like ARC is using around a 140Hz crossover for the Surrounds, and you can't really lower that because they just aren't producing bass below that.


There may be nothing you can do to improve the bass output of the Surrounds, but check to see if they have a bass port that needs to be opened, and also, if they have separate bass input jacks, that those are wired.


Meanwhile, double check that you have the internal crossover in the sub disabled or cranked up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible and get some additional high end out of the sub. Right now it looks like you may have an 80Hz crossover still active inside that sub.

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MajorJuggler* /forum/post/18494033
> 
> 
> Ha, no, I wasn't planning on disassembling my Sub12! Nor do I need to, thankfully. I have the same acoustic signal recorded in two places (PBK results and .wav), and one of them has applied the calibration curve. Therefore, the transfer function between the two *is* the acoustic mic's cal curve, provided I use the same transformation that they did to get from the time domain to the frequency domain. The source of the acoustic signal doesn't matter, but for accurate results I'll want good signal to noise ratio, and minimum room mode excitation.



Oh, I was confused for a moment...well actually I'm always confused but in this case I was momentarily confused about what you were doing. Your correction software applies the mic calibration curve but your .wav file recording of the same information does not. Therefore the difference between the two is the mic calibration curve. Yes, you are correct this should work perfectly. You can then apply this to your Methlab...sorry MatLab repeat the measurement and the two curves should align exactly. This confirms you have the mic properly corrected for both measurement systems. Clever! I like it! It will work! Personally I would take the sub apart...whether I had reason to or not










mk


----------



## MajorJuggler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/18494285
> 
> 
> Personally I would take the sub apart...whether I had reason to or not



Don't tempt me. I have another Matlab program that interfaces with an HP 89410A Vector Analyzer to do automated amplifier testing: THD, linearity, dynamic range, etc. So if I pulled the amplifier out of the sub and tested it on the bench, do you think that would void my warranty?


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MajorJuggler* /forum/post/18494447
> 
> 
> Don't tempt me. I have another Matlab program that interfaces with an HP 89410A Vector Analyzer to do automated amplifier testing: THD, linearity, dynamic range, etc. So if I pulled the amplifier out of the sub and tested it on the bench, do you think that would void my warranty?



I won't tell anyone. You have nice toys!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *b curry* /forum/post/18474926
> 
> 
> I stand corrected on the display brightness. The remote on the 50v looks like the same one thats been around since the AVM 20. The D2v does look like an up-date to some degree. My point is, it is possible to supply a remote today that does not require buttons to serve multi functions. No big deal, it works. I just think remote technology has improved and not reflected here. On the other hand, allot of people don't use the Anthem remote.
> 
> 
> I agree, Anthem is on the short list. There is little competition at its price point.



Anthem replaced their remote around the middle of last year -- presumably due to availability from the folks providing the older remote. There are some minor changes in the new remote but it still overlays multiple functions on buttons: E.g., press once vs. multiple press vs. press & hold where press & hold might produce auto-repeat (as with Volume) or might get you into a different set of options (as with Mode).


The latest user Manual (available for download from the Anthem site) shows the look and button arrangement of the remote they are shipping now.


There's a LOT of functionality accessible via the remote. Nowhere near as much as is accessible via the RS-232 interface, but a lot nonetheless. If Anthem didn't overlay multiple functions on buttons you'd either need a display screen style remote, or the number of buttons on the remote would be huge.


And that doesn't even count that fact that the remote is controlling 4 separate devices within the same chassis (Main, Zone 1, Zone 2, Record) and is also a multi-vendor remote for controlling things like DVD players.


For what it needs to do, the Anthem remote actually works quite well, but my recommendation is that folks switch to a nice programmable remote for controlling their whole system. I use a Harmony 880 myself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pgiralt* /forum/post/18468334
> 
> 
> My D2V should be arriving this week and I was wondering if there is there a consolidated list of tips and tricks for first time Anthem owners. I'd love to read through the 27k posts on this thread but that might take some time



Not so much tips and tricks as just taking it a step at a time.


I like to suggest folks read the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post (post link available in the Setup section in the first post of this thread. That covers a lot of ground which can be confusing to folks starting up.


In particular, do things from back to front. Get your display working right with the Anthem video output before fiddling with the source side of things for example.


I also suggest you get your basic audio setup working manually before you start with ARC.


The user Manual is your friend. It really does have a lot of useful information.


And of course you can always just ask questions here.


ETA: Oh, another "and of course": There's no value reading back more than a few months worth of posts in this thread as the older posts are, for the most part, outdated. Scan the post links in the first post of this thread and then start catching up be reading BACKWARDS from the end of the thread.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/18449842
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> After much messing with targets these ARC plots are about the best that I could do. I would appreciate your input. Any suggestions? Especially on addressing the dip at 10kHz and spike from 15-20kHz?
> 
> 
> Room is 12x23. Front speakers are Thiel CS2.4s and are against the 12 foot wall located 18 inches in front of wall and 20 inches from side wall. Based on my layout, that is as far as I can move them into the room.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



The result looks quite good given the Measured curves you are starting with.


You posted these a week ago. How does it sound?


It looks like you've got a room dip near 80Hz that is showing up in a few speakers. In particular this is causing ARC to use a lower cutoff for your sub. This is not really a problem as your other speakers all go low enough, but some repositioning of the sub might smooth that dip and thus ARC will use the sub further up. That would give you some more flexibility in the cutoffs for the other speakers. For example you could raise LS/RS a bit, which means ARC has less boosting to do in their bass, and thus you have resources to apply higher up.


The high frequency dip could be the result of speaker pointing, or grill coverings, or mic/measurement issues.


You've corrected a lot of that, and the key thing is whether you like how it sounds, which would indicate that the correction is "real". If so, again, getting ARC to use higher end bass from the sub and adjusting the cutoffs for the other speakers may let you push Max EQ Frequency up even higher (i.e., freeing up resources to work up there without screwing up the low end of the curves).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18456208
> 
> 
> Well it took awhile but I finally figured out how to post my ARC charts. Thanks for the help guys.
> 
> There's a big peak at 200 hz on the surrounds but I think I can get that lowered if I increase the bass in the front towers. Then the cutoffs & x-0vers should also fall to approx. 110-115. I had a HUGE problem with the rear speakers. They have powered subs and after alot of head banging I figured out that the level adj knob wasn't placed on the metal stem the same as the other speaker so the bass was way out of whack. It's ok now though.



Catching up on older posts:


Next time you post, be sure to do a Calculate first so that the green, Calculated curves show as well. That's the only way we can see how close ARC thinks it is able to come to the dashed, black Target curves it is trying to hit.


There's something very strange going on in the bass for LF/RF. My first reaction is that you've got a bad woofer or bad crossover electronics and the mid-range is trying to carry the load to too low in frequencies.


You mention that you are using satellite subs -- i.e., powered subs directly connected or even built into the speakers. Wiring and setup for that is tricky, and the sharp oscillations you have in the red, Measured curves for LF/RF bass make me think that something is wrong here.


If your satellite subs have an internal crossover setting, that could also be part of your 200Hz peak for LS/RS. I.e., if the main speaker *AND* the satellite sub are both trying to produce output at 200Hz (due to the satellite sub crossover being too high and the main speaker also getting audio that is BYPASSING that crossover) then you would get the type of peak you are seeing. This would be both a wiring and a setup problem for that satellite sub.


The LR/RR curves look correct, so see if there is a difference in the way you have them set up.

--Bob


----------



## jamulian

Thanks for the come back on cd players.

I looked into both the Nad and Rotel, but I ended up getting the Marantz BD8200. It was a new discontinued model and a good price. Seems to have a great picture as well as very good sound. Still experimenting with the different options for playing cd's.


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18494573
> 
> 
> ...There's a LOT of functionality accessible via the remote. Nowhere near as much as is accessible via the RS-232 interface, but a lot nonetheless. If Anthem didn't overlay multiple functions on buttons you'd either need a display screen style remote, or the number of buttons on the remote would be huge...
> 
> 
> ...For what it needs to do, the Anthem remote actually works quite well, but my recommendation is that folks switch to a nice programmable remote for controlling their whole system. I use a Harmony 880 myself.
> 
> --Bob



Of course you're correct Bob and I agree. I use a Pronto with my system. I was only dreaming; it would be nice to see a fuller featured programable remote delivered with a pre/pro like the D2v or 50v. OTOH, it may well add unnecessary expense and for sure it would not please everyone.


----------



## Picasso Moon

Any word on the status of Dolby Volume? There seemed to be a flurry of beta firmware releases a while back where it was introduced and the bugs were being worked out but it doesn't seem like we've heard much on the DV front lately.


----------



## mrfixit58

Just started reading this forum. In the market for a D2V. Should I wait? Do you think there will be dramatic changes mid year. Will I be bumming that I didn't hold off? Things are changing so rapidly. Thanks

mrfixit58


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18494804
> 
> 
> Catching up on older posts:
> 
> 
> Next time you post, be sure to do a Calculate first so that the green, Calculated curves show as well. That's the only way we can see how close ARC thinks it is able to come to the dashed, black Target curves it is trying to hit.
> 
> 
> There's something very strange going on in the bass for LF/RF. My first reaction is that you've got a bad woofer or bad crossover electronics and the mid-range is trying to carry the load to too low in frequencies.
> 
> 
> You mention that you are using satellite subs -- i.e., powered subs directly connected or even built into the speakers. Wiring and setup for that is tricky, and the sharp oscillations you have in the red, Measured curves for LF/RF bass make me think that something is wrong here. If your satellite subs have an internal crossover setting, that could also be part of your 200Hz peak for LS/RS. I.e., if the main speaker *AND* the satellite sub are both trying to produce output at 200Hz (due to the satellite sub crossover being too high and the main speaker also getting audio that is BYPASSING that crossover) then you would get the type of peak you are seeing. This would be both a wiring and a setup problem for that satellite sub.
> 
> 
> The LR/RR curves look correct, so see if there is a difference in the way you have them set up.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks for the reply Bob.

I should point out that the R/S, L/S don't have the built in subs, but the ones in the rear do. All 4 surrounds are placed inside of columns approx. 48" up from the floor. Since they are in columns I don't have a choice as far as placement.

Since my last post I did change the position of my front towers and the 2 seperate subwoofers. I also increased the bass in the front towers. I can increase the bass if necessary. I should point out that all speakers are set to small and I'm not using the LFE output on the front towers.

I still have the huge 200hz in the sides though. Do you still think I need to do some work on the front towers as far as the x-overs? The subs in them seem to be working. I can feel them moving.

Here's some updated charts:


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18497774
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply Bob.
> 
> I should point out that the R/S, L/S don't have the built in subs, but the ones in the rear do. All 4 surrounds are placed inside of columns approx. 48" up from the floor. Since they are in columns I don't have a choice as far as placement.
> 
> Since my last post I did change the position of my front towers and the 2 seperate subwoofers. I also increased the bass in the front towers. I can increase the bass if necessary. I should point out that all speakers are set to small and I'm not using the LFE output on the front towers.
> 
> I still have the huge 200hz in the sides though. Do you still think I need to do some work on the front towers as far as the x-overs? The subs in them seem to be working. I can feel them moving.
> 
> Here's some updated charts:



Your Measured curves for LF/RF are looking better with the bass adjustment you made. You don't need more bass in LF/RF. In fact you should turn it down some (but not as far down as you had it before). Try backing it off about 5-8dB. The problem is that the dip at 100Hz (which may very well be a room issue) is causing ARC to use a higher "cutoff" (and thus also "crossover") for LF/RF. So all of that bass is being discarded.


(If there is a crossover or phase adjustment in the satellite subs for LF/RF those may need tweaking to flatten out that 100Hz dip. I.e., that dip may be the result of a less than optimal transition between the main LF/RF speakers and their attached satellite subs.)


When you turn down the bass on the LF/RF satellite subs a bit ARC may adjust this on its own -- i.e., it won't feel the need to discard the hot bass and so it will ignore the dip at 100Hz and use a lower cutoff all on its own. But if not, you can adjust the LF/RF cutoff lower yourself in Targets. You could experiment with that now if you'd like, even before adjusting their bass down a bit. You could probably lower the LF/RF cutoff to 40Hz, then check to see if the dip at 100Hz is still being fully corrected.


Given the lack of adjustment for LS/RS I wouldn't worry about that peak at 200Hz. ARC has it well under control and there's not a problem with the cutoff for LS/RS being as high as 115Hz since your sub goes up that high.


You are also getting to the point where you should start experimenting with raising Max EQ Frequency in Targets to see how things work out if you tell ARC it is OK to apply corrections above the default 5KHz.


I'm actually quite encouraged by the improvement in LF/RF Measured curves this time. I think you may be closing in on a good solution.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/18495771
> 
> 
> Any word on the status of Dolby Volume? There seemed to be a flurry of beta firmware releases a while back where it was introduced and the bugs were being worked out but it doesn't seem like we've heard much on the DV front lately.



I presume they are still making adjustments on it. The most recent Beta was put out about a month ago, so I would expect something soon, but if they catch problems in their internal testing, they are not going to put a release up for field Beta testing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrfixit58* /forum/post/18495962
> 
> 
> Just started reading this forum. In the market for a D2V. Should I wait? Do you think there will be dramatic changes mid year. Will I be bumming that I didn't hold off? Things are changing so rapidly. Thanks
> 
> mrfixit58



We know they are about to launch lower priced "receiver" products, but so far there's been no hint of any updates in the works for either the D2v or the AVM 50v. Personally, I'm not expecting any changes in those until some time next year, but no guarantees.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

I have decided to run ARC from a new netbook computer that I just purchased. I downloaded the newest version of ARC and installed in the netbook.

I just tried to run ARC and I get a message that the software cannot "find a valid Anthem processor" (I have a D2 unit).

Any suggestions/ideas?

Thanks!!


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/18498021
> 
> 
> I have decided to run ARC from a new netbook computer that I just purchased. I downloaded the newest version of ARC and installed in the netbook.
> 
> I just tried to run ARC and I get a message that the software cannot "find a valid Anthem processor" (I have a D2 unit).
> 
> Any suggestions/ideas?
> 
> Thanks!!



You also have to move the two numbered files into the anthem software directory from your original CD or the other computer you used.. These have the serial numbers of the mike and processor.


What USB/Serial adapter are you using?


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/18498060
> 
> 
> You also have to move the two numbered files into the anthem software directory from your original CD or the other computer you used.. These have the serial numbers of the mike and processor.
> 
> 
> What USB/Serial adapter are you using?



Thanks Shrike645!

I had already moved the two numbered files and placed them in the new Anthem folder. I am using a Keyspan USB/serial adapter. It used to work perfectly with my older laptop.

Any other thoughts??


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/18498100
> 
> 
> Thanks Shrike645!
> 
> I had already moved the two numbered files and placed them in the new Anthem folder. I am using a Keyspan USB/serial adapter. It used to work perfectly with my older laptop.
> 
> Any other thoughts??



The keyspan should work. The only other thing that comes to mind is to check the com port speed and stop bits that are set. I think it should be 19200 and 2 stop bits but in any case it has to match what the Anthem is set at.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Go into Hardware Device Manager. Check that the new laptop has assigned the Keyspan in the range of Com1 to Com6. Check for any indication of a resource conflict in Device Manager (an error symbol on some device's info).


If you had another USB/Serial adapter on that new laptop, uninstall it and also the keyspan and reinstall the keyspan. Check the keyspan support site to make sure you have the latest driver for the version of Windows on the new laptop. Reboot after the uninstalls and again after the install.


If you are not using the same serial cable as before, check that the serial cable you are using now is a "straight through" cable -- pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9 with no pair swapped.


If you use the serial port on the Anthem for remote control functions, be sure you have restored the Setup menu settings for the serial port to the default settings before trying to use the keyspan for ARC or for firmware installs. See the picture in the manual for the default settings.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18497994
> 
> 
> We know they are about to launch lower priced "receiver" products,
> 
> --Bob



Bob, do you know if these receivers will be STATEMENT Receivers?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/18498396
> 
> 
> Bob, do you know if these receivers will be STATEMENT Receivers?



I do not know, but I doubt it. The model numbers for the two of the four that are supposed to be launched on June 22 (New York CEA show) are MRX 500 and MRX 700. If they intended them to be in the Statement line I'm sure they would have included that in the model number.

--Bob


----------



## NetAxis

New Member here - and I own a pretty late model D2. I am TIRED of my xBox 360 HD-DVD (yea I know dinosaur...) dropping the HDCP link. It happens almost 5-6 times per movie. I think the new firmware version (the f version...) may help with this. I am currently running 1.33. I do not know how to gain access to the pw protected DL site. can someone assist? I have all the flash procedures down and have done it before....I just need to get the binaries!


thanks much guys and I really appreciate all the help and knowledge that you all have!


Scott


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NetAxis* /forum/post/18498890
> 
> 
> New Member here - and I own a pretty late model D2. I am TIRED of my xBox 360 HD-DVD (yea I know dinosaur...) dropping the HDCP link. It happens almost 5-6 times per movie. I think the new firmware version (the f version...) may help with this. I am currently running 1.33. I do not know how to gain access to the pw protected DL site. can someone assist? I have all the flash procedures down and have done it before....I just need to get the binaries!
> 
> 
> thanks much guys and I really appreciate all the help and knowledge that you all have!
> 
> 
> Scott



I have used a Todhiba HD-DVD with my D2 since DAY-ONE. It didn't matter

what version of FW I had on the D2 - NO PROBLEMS, Even as far back as

version 1.0.


----------



## NetAxis

Dr. Yes I get that...this is more of an xBox 360 issue. There is a known handshake problem with it, and I have reached my limits!


Thanks tho for the vote of confidence!


Scott


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NetAxis* /forum/post/18498938
> 
> 
> Dr. Yes I get that...this is more of an xBox 360 issue. There is a known handshake problem with it, and I have reached my limits!
> 
> 
> Thanks tho for the vote of confidence!
> 
> 
> Scott



I also use a PS3 with my D2 - NO PROBLEMS.


I guess we all expect Anthem to FIX *yet another Microsoft* Problem


----------



## NetAxis

/Huge eye-roll


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NetAxis* /forum/post/18498890
> 
> 
> New Member here - and I own a pretty late model D2. I am TIRED of my xBox 360 HD-DVD (yea I know dinosaur...) dropping the HDCP link. It happens almost 5-6 times per movie. I think the new firmware version (the f version...) may help with this. I am currently running 1.33. I do not know how to gain access to the pw protected DL site. can someone assist? I have all the flash procedures down and have done it before....I just need to get the binaries!
> 
> 
> thanks much guys and I really appreciate all the help and knowledge that you all have!
> 
> 
> Scott



Scott,


First of all, welcome to AVS and to the Cool Kids Thread!


Anthem tech support has asked us not to post the access info here for their password protected download page. It's no big secret, and if you just phone or email them they will almost certainly just give it to you right away. They are just trying to keep some sort of loose track of who's using this stuff. And they'll want to make sure you understand that the "test" software is not finished yet and may come with some unpleasant surprises which might require you to roll back to the V1.33 you have now.


The "test" version for the D2 is V1.47f at the moment, and it does indeed have HDMI fixes (code ported to the D2 from the D2v). However it does *NOT* work on all D2 units.


Check through the top vents of your D2. If your video board -- the big board just under the vents -- is colored red, *OR* if you can see your power supply does *NOT* have the big, toroidal (donut-shaped) transformer, then if either of those is true your unit is OK for V1.47f.


If your video board is colored gray or green *AND* you happen to have the big, toroidal transformer in your power supply, then it is still possible that your unit might work with V1.47f, but there's no easy way for you to tell.


Since your D2 is a later production unit, odds are you have the power supply without the donut and so you are good to go. But check first.


Then just get in touch with Anthem tech support and explain what you are hoping to get out of the test firmware. It is also possible they may simply have the answer for you as to whether it is known to solve XBOX problems or not.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18498216
> 
> 
> If you had another USB/Serial adapter on that new laptop, uninstall it and also the keyspan and reinstall the keyspan. Check the keyspan support site to make sure you have the latest driver for the version of Windows on the new laptop. Reboot after the uninstalls and again after the install.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Downloading the newest driver fixed the problem!


Thanks!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/18499262
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Downloading the newest driver fixed the problem!
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!!



Since other folks might run into this problem, please report which version of Windows you have on the new computer, and also the version number of the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial driver that failed (if you know it) and of the new driver that worked. Thanks!

--Bob


----------



## dbfreq

Hi,


Anthem used to include an Excel file describing the RS-232 protocol in the software download. It's not included with the 2.08 software and I don't see it on the redesigned site.


Does anyone have a copy they could post? Or, could someone point me to the latest version?


Thanks.


Brad


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbfreq* /forum/post/18499450
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Anthem used to include an Excel file describing the RS-232 protocol in the software download. It's not included with the 2.08 software and I don't see it on the redesigned site.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a copy they could post? Or, could someone point me to the latest version?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Brad



It is included in the ARC download package.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbfreq* /forum/post/18499450
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Anthem used to include an Excel file describing the RS-232 protocol in the software download. It's not included with the 2.08 software and I don't see it on the redesigned site.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a copy they could post? Or, could someone point me to the latest version?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Brad



As stated above, it's now included in the ARC V2.4 download kit, along with the various utilities like Settings Backup and Live Video Settings Editor:

http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-...pport/software 


Just download the ARC V2.4 folder and un-Zip that.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18499346
> 
> 
> Since other folks might run into this problem, please report which version of Windows you have on the new computer, and also the version number of the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial driver that failed (if you know it) and of the new driver that worked. Thanks!
> 
> --Bob



The new computer runs on Windows 7. The Keyspan driver that worked for me is version 3.7.0.4. I do not have the version number for the old driver.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/18499571
> 
> 
> The new computer runs on Windows 7. The Keyspan driver that worked for me is version 3.7.0.4. I do not have the version number for the old driver.



Thanks, I'm sure that will be helpful for some other folks here.

--Bob


----------



## NetAxis

Thanks Much for the post and update Bob!


I did check the D2 through the top vents and all I see is red-red-red! I think I am good to go here. I dent an email to support (through the new anthem support WWW). and incuded all details and SN of my unit. hope that will do the trick.


thanks again!


Scott


----------



## J. FRICANO

Hello Everyone,

I just ordered a pair of Paradigm ADP-3 surround speakers to complete my 5.1 speaker set up of a pair of S6's and C3 center. Can you please tell me anything I need to do to insure my D2 and ARC are set up and used properly for these surrounds? They are replacing a pair of NHT 1.5's. Thank you for your time and consistent support, John Fricano.


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks again for the latest reply Bob.

I'll try what you recommended sometime today. I think I've been setting the bass too high in the towers but it's the only way I could get rid of the effects in my 1st posted charts. I went from 1o'clock spot to the 2 o'clock spot and finally ended up at 3 o'clock spot. I think I have to move down in 1/4 increments now to obtain the chart results you mention to get that 5db-8db drop.


Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18501777
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the latest reply Bob.
> 
> I'll try what you recommended sometime today. I think I've been setting the bass too high in the towers but it's the only way I could get rid of the effects in my 1st posted charts. I went from 1o'clock spot to the 2 o'clock spot and finally ended up at 3 o'clock spot. I think I have to move down in 1/4 increments now to obtain the chart results you mention to get that 5db-8db drop.
> 
> 
> Ken



It is very common for subwoofer volume controls to be touchy.


If you have your current ARC solution Uploaded, go into Setup > Source Setup for your player and turn Room EQ = OFF. Then, in Setup > Speaker Configuration, turn Advanced Settings OFF and set LF/RF to "Large", which will disable the crossover from them. Now any bass played into LF/RF will be reproduced unaltered. (Also make sure that Room Resonance Filter is OFF.)


Then play a bass test tone (going to LF or even better to LF/RF) from a calibration disc on that player, and see what you read on your SPL meter. Use Stereo audio mode so that no audio is being directed to any other speakers. That corresponds to the current volume setting on those satellite subs. Then adjust the volume knob on the satellite subs to reduce that by 5-8dB.


Don't forget to put all the Setup settings back where they were when you finish this (just Reload Saved User Settings if you have those saved).


Now re-Measure for ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/18501429
> 
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I just ordered a pair of Paradigm ADP-3 surround speakers to complete my 5.1 speaker set up of a pair of S6's and C3 center. Can you please tell me anything I need to do to insure my D2 and ARC are set up and used properly for these surrounds? They are replacing a pair of NHT 1.5's. Thank you for your time and consistent support, John Fricano.



Give them some break-in time before you Measure for ARC.


Nick at Anthem likes to recommend that you play the static hiss between FM channels. Mono All audio mode will direct that to all the speakers.


These are, I believe, dipole surround speakers, so change from Direct to Dipole in Setup > Speaker Configuration. Note that the only thing this does is change the way the speaker distance settings are applied. See the Manual section on Setup > Listener Position for the details.


And of course follow the guidance in their instructions on installation.

--Bob


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18502032
> 
> 
> Give them some break-in time before you Measure for ARC.
> 
> 
> Nick at Anthem likes to recommend that you play the static hiss between FM channels. Mono All audio mode will direct that to all the speakers.
> 
> 
> These are, I believe, dipole surround speakers, so change from Direct to Dipole in Setup > Speaker Configuration. Note that the only thing this does is change the way the speaker distance settings are applied. See the Manual section on Setup > Listener Position for the details.
> 
> 
> And of course follow the guidance in their instructions on installation.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you very much Bob! John.


----------



## ninja12

About a month or so ago, I downloaded and installed v1.47f. The reason for the download was to resolve some HDMI issues which it did. I also noticed that the sound improved. I normally listen at volume level -10 which is 75db. Very surprising to me, -10 for v1.47f sounded very strong than what I was normally use to hearing. So, since I had some time this weekend, I decided to rerun ARC, and this is what I noticed between v1.33 and v1.47f.


1) 75db with 1.33 was 7.0. 75db with v1.47f was -2.5.

2) The measured sub response for v1.47f looks better than v1.33


I have attached the charts from the latest ARC run and my old sub measurement from 1.33. Has anyone who went from v1.33 to v1.47f noticed any differences in the sound?


I'm really enjoying what I am hearing.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18503155
> 
> 
> About a month or so ago, I downloaded and installed v1.47f. The reason for the download was to resolve some HDMI issues which it did. I also noticed that the sound improved. I normally listen at volume level -10 which is 75db. Very surprising to me, -10 for v1.47f sounded very strong than what I was normally use to hearing. So, since I had some time this weekend, I decided to rerun ARC, and this is what I noticed between v1.33 and v1.47f.
> 
> 
> 1) 75db with 1.33 was 7.0. 75db with v1.47f was -2.5.
> 
> 2) The measured sub response for v1.47f looks better than v1.33
> 
> 
> I have attached the charts from the latest ARC run and my old sub measurement from 1.33. Has anyone who went from v1.33 to v1.47f noticed any differences in the sound?
> 
> 
> I'm really enjoying what I am hearing.



Your sub chart looks like you moved it to a better position, not a firmware upgrade. Very weird but very nice. The sub response looks very nice now. Enjoy









John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18503257
> 
> 
> Your sub chart looks like you moved it to a better position, not a firmware upgrade. Very weird but very nice. The sub response looks very nice now. Enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I know; but, I assure you that I did not move anything. Originally, I just downloaded v1.47f and uploaded my ARC Settings from v1.33. I just decided to rerun ARC for the first time with v1.47f this weekend. I am so puzzled about what has happened; but, I am really enjoying it though.







I guess some things have no explanation.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18503328
> 
> 
> I know; but, I assure you that I did not move anything. Originally, I just downloaded v1.47f and uploaded my ARC Settings from v1.33. I just decided to rerun ARC for the first time with v1.47f this weekend. I am so puzzled about what has happened; but, I am really enjoying it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess some things have no explanation.



Perhaps an earthquake or volcano may have shifted it a bit







I haven't forgotten the change I heard once my sub was moved and the change in the chart, somewhat like yours. The sound is now phenomenal.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18503564
> 
> 
> Perhaps an earthquake or volcano may have shifted it a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't forgotten the change I heard once my sub was moved and the change in the chart, somewhat like yours. The sound is now phenomenal.
> 
> John



Ok, it was you. I did recall someone posting how much better their sub was once it was moved; but, I couldn't remember exactly who it was. I am definitely enjoying my free upgrade.


----------



## mrfixit58

I have been wanting the D2V for quite some time. It seems to be at he top of the list of processors. Is there any reason to hold off buying a D2v now? Will I be missing out on any new features? I am also looking for amps to power my Pmc 0B1s. Anthem P5,P2 or Bryston or? I can buy a P5 demo for 4500. A new D2v for 6400. Wondering if these prices are in the ballpark? Feedback would be great, because I want to buy some great electronics. Thanks

mrfixit58


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrfixit58* /forum/post/18503933
> 
> 
> I have been wanting the D2V for quite some time. It seems to be at he top of the list of processors. Is there any reason to hold off buying a D2v now? Will I be missing out on any new features? I am also looking for amps to power my Pmc 0B1s. Anthem P5,P2 or Bryston or? I can buy a P5 demo for 4500. A new D2v for 6400. Wondering if these prices are in the ballpark? Feedback would be great, because I want to buy some great electronics. Thanks
> 
> mrfixit58



Go for it. You cannot go wrong with the D2V/P5 combo, the P5 will drive anything. Prices seem reasonable.


----------



## mkaye

i swapped the speakers & the problem moved, i swapped the tweeters & the problem went away! must have been a loose connection

i spent some more time & removed my room treatments from behind the speakers & it improved the dip @~150Hz, it also increased the room gain

i also changed the max eq to 12KHz


the xover on the sub is definitely turned up all the way - i don't have a lot of choice of where it is (against the side wall near centre)


mark



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18494273
> 
> 
> These definitely look better.
> 
> 
> I agree with your concern about the high end of LF. One easy way to check that (presuming your ear-close test says the tweeter is firing at all) is to swap LF and RF. If the problem moves with the speaker then it is a speaker issue. If your crossovers were flakey, I suppose it's possible you lost or damaged the LF tweeter.
> 
> 
> As for the low end of LF/RF/C (mostly LF/RF) one thing you might want to try is to tell ARC to LOWER the "cutoff" (and thus also the crossover) for them. Don't set them to "Full Range", just experiment with a lower cutoff value. This will tell ARC to use more of that low frequency energy instead of trying to roll it off. Now you could lower the LF/RF cutoff all the way to 25Hz based on how they Measure, but I don't recommend you do that. Even though they can produce subsonic frequencies, it is a rare main speaker that can produce those at volume. So I'd lower the cutoff to no lower than 30Hz, or even 35Hz and see how that alters the solution. (The sub will take steered bass from them below that.) There's no problem having different cutoffs for Center and the Surrounds. For example, you probably don't want to lower Center much at all, but I could see dropping it another 10Hz.
> 
> 
> Next time you post, please remember to capture and post your Targets window as well.
> 
> 
> Now with LF/RF/C using more of their bass output, it may be easier to raise Max EQ Frequency to get additional correction for the high end of all the speakers. You could easily raise ARC's upper correction limit from the default 5KHz to 12KHz, and quite possibly all the way to 20KHz. Then see whether you like the resulting sound.
> 
> 
> Your sub has a peak at 24Hz that's giving ARC some trouble. If it removes that peak their will be more undershoot at 20Hz. This could easily be "boundary gain" -- i.e, the sub a bit too close to the wall/corner behind it. So some repositioning experiments might be worth the effort. It's even possible you may get improvement by moving the sub CLOSER to the wall/corner to move that peak down further towards 20Hz.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that you can speed things up by telling ARC to use only LF/RF/Sub. When you get candidate positioning, then do the full Measurement.
> 
> 
> Your Surrounds are a bit weak in bass and your sub doesn't go quite high enough to completely support them. From the charts it looks like ARC is using around a 140Hz crossover for the Surrounds, and you can't really lower that because they just aren't producing bass below that.
> 
> 
> There may be nothing you can do to improve the bass output of the Surrounds, but check to see if they have a bass port that needs to be opened, and also, if they have separate bass input jacks, that those are wired.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, double check that you have the internal crossover in the sub disabled or cranked up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible and get some additional high end out of the sub. Right now it looks like you may have an 80Hz crossover still active inside that sub.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18505099
> 
> 
> i swapped the speakers & the problem moved, i swapped the tweeters & the problem went away! must have been a loose connection
> 
> i spent some more time & removed my room treatments from behind the speakers & it improved the dip @~150Hz, it also increased the room gain
> 
> i also changed the max eq to 12KHz
> 
> 
> the xover on the sub is definitely turned up all the way - i don't have a lot of choice of where it is (against the side wall near centre)
> 
> 
> mark



Yet another case of Richard syndrome!










(For newbies: "Richard Syndrome" is discovering via ARC that one or more of the speakers you've been happily enjoying up to now is actually broken -- quite possibly broken for some time! Named for the first poster here to have that epiphany.)


This is looking quite good and should sound very good just as is. ARC decided you had a little better bass from the surrounds this time. The 95Hz cutoff/crossover it has chosen for them now works well with the current top end of your sub -- so no problems there.


At the low end, your sub is showing as good down to 20Hz, which is fine.


I suggest you try some Calculation experiments (no need to re-Measure) where you lower the cutoff/crossover for LF/RF a bit. ARC has picked 60Hz, and that is working well, but try some values between 40 and 60Hz and see if it looks even better when ARC uses some more of the bass energy they are producing instead of discarding it. That will extend the Room Gain hump for them over to that peak you have now at 50Hz which, at the moment, ARC is trying to discard. I'd avoid using anything lower than 40Hz.


(Even if you do like the lower value better, do NOT check the "Full Range" box. Leave it unchecked so that bass below that is still steered to the sub.)


After deciding what you like best for LF/RF cutoff/crossover, then I'd also suggest you try raising MAX EQ Frequency all the way up to 20KHz, and if the resulting curves look good then give that a listen and see if you like the sound of having ARC correct all the way up there. If you don't like the treble, back it off. When checking the curves watch out for increased residual errors at lower frequencies. If you see those (which indicate ARC is shifting too much of its resources to the high end) just back off Max EQ Frequency.


Finally, if you are going to use the Music solution as a separate solution, be sure to transfer your Targets choices to the Music column as well. You can select the Music charts for display using ARC's View menu.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18503155
> 
> 
> About a month or so ago, I downloaded and installed v1.47f. The reason for the download was to resolve some HDMI issues which it did. I also noticed that the sound improved. I normally listen at volume level -10 which is 75db. Very surprising to me, -10 for v1.47f sounded very strong than what I was normally use to hearing. So, since I had some time this weekend, I decided to rerun ARC, and this is what I noticed between v1.33 and v1.47f.
> 
> 
> 1) 75db with 1.33 was 7.0. 75db with v1.47f was -2.5.
> 
> 2) The measured sub response for v1.47f looks better than v1.33
> 
> 
> I have attached the charts from the latest ARC run and my old sub measurement from 1.33. Has anyone who went from v1.33 to v1.47f noticed any differences in the sound?
> 
> 
> I'm really enjoying what I am hearing.



The change would more likely have been in the ARC application itself.


Which version of ARC did you use to produce the older solution?


Also, if your speakers were new when you did the older ARC run, you may be hearing some improvement due to break-in of the speakers. I.e., the new ARC run is Measuring the improved, post break-in, sound from the speakers.

--Bob


----------



## mkaye

when watching some channels (1080i) i see the white bars for the closed caption encoding at the top of the screen

i tried changing a few settings, but nothing seemed to get rid of it

what settings should i be playing with?


mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrfixit58* /forum/post/18503933
> 
> 
> I have been wanting the D2V for quite some time. It seems to be at he top of the list of processors. Is there any reason to hold off buying a D2v now? Will I be missing out on any new features? I am also looking for amps to power my Pmc 0B1s. Anthem P5,P2 or Bryston or? I can buy a P5 demo for 4500. A new D2v for 6400. Wondering if these prices are in the ballpark? Feedback would be great, because I want to buy some great electronics. Thanks
> 
> mrfixit58



That D2v pricing looks surprisingly good if it is for a new unit from an authorized dealer. You really do want to have Warranty coverage on the D2v, which means buying from an authorized dealer.


The D2v is HDMI V1.3 with no 3D support. There will be "receivers" coming out this year with HDMI V1.4 and 3D support. So if you have feature-envy for either of those that's something to consider. I do not expect a replacement for the D2v to happen this year so if you wait, you'll be waiting into next year and who knows where the feature envy will be coming from at that point?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18505863
> 
> 
> when watching some channels (1080i) i see the white bars for the closed caption encoding at the top of the screen
> 
> i tried changing a few settings, but nothing seemed to get rid of it
> 
> what settings should i be playing with?
> 
> 
> mark



On my Comcast/Motorola HD/DVR I find that to be more of a problem using HDMI than using Component video. That box is broken in other ways as well for HDMI output (the infamous Big Green Line on the Right problem) so I use Component.


But to answer your question, while viewing that Source, press and hold the "7" button to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. Then scroll right to Crop Input and scroll down to select Edges ON. Set a pixel value for how much you want trimmed from around all 4 sides of the image. 6-10 pixels will usually do the trick. See Manual Section 4.11.


It is pretty common that this will only happen for SOME of your channels. So you might want to leave Edges Off and just live with it for a few channels.

--Bob


----------



## 13ege

Why there is no information about d2v's power components? For example Denon's AVP has 2 toroidal power transformers and independent power supplies etc.. What about d2v's power features?


I'm weak when it comes to power things. Are there any advantages,disadvantages for d2v? Do they effect performance?


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18505921
> 
> 
> On my Comcast/Motorola HD/DVR I find that to be more of a problem using HDMI than using Component video. That box is broken in other ways as well for HDMI output (the infamous Big Green Line on the Right problem) so I use Component.
> 
> 
> But to answer your question, while viewing that Source, press and hold the "7" button to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu. Then scroll right to Crop Input and scroll down to select Edges ON. Set a pixel value for how much you want trimmed from around all 4 sides of the image. 6-10 pixels will usually do the trick. See Manual Section 4.11.
> 
> 
> It is pretty common that this will only happen for SOME of your channels. So you might want to leave Edges Off and just live with it for a few channels.
> 
> --Bob




Bob, if you can, go to your local comcast center and upgrade to comcast's new model... the dcx.. they have fixed several things including the "big green line".


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/18507206
> 
> 
> Bob, if you can, go to your local comcast center and upgrade to comcast's new model... the dcx.. they have fixed several things including the "big green line".



Yeah, I've been meaning to do that. I'd also like the "native" switching to 720p output. Just haven't gotten around to it.


We'll see which comes first: I deal with the nuisance of the local Comcast office, or FIOS-TV wiring comes to my building...

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/18507206
> 
> 
> Bob, if you can, go to your local comcast center and upgrade to comcast's new model... the dcx.. they have fixed several things including the "big green line".



Are you saying that the new Motorola boxes actually work over HDMI?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18505857
> 
> 
> The change would more likely have been in the ARC application itself.
> 
> 
> Which version of ARC did you use to produce the older solution?
> 
> 
> Also, if your speakers were new when you did the older ARC run, you may be hearing some improvement due to break-in of the speakers. I.e., the new ARC run is Measuring the improved, post break-in, sound from the speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

wasn't there a version of ARC that required a firmware update in the D2? This may be what caused the change. If the new ARC version was used with the 1.33 and then with 1.47 ARC now worked properly. Just a thought.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18505857
> 
> 
> The change would more likely have been in the ARC application itself.
> 
> 
> Which version of ARC did you use to produce the older solution?
> 
> 
> Also, if your speakers were new when you did the older ARC run, you may be hearing some improvement due to break-in of the speakers. I.e., the new ARC run is Measuring the improved, post break-in, sound from the speakers.
> 
> --Bob



I used ARC v2.4 to produce the older solution.


No, I have had the speakers for a while, so, I am pretty sure they are good and broken in. I was always told to never look a gift horse in the mouth. So, I am just going to smile and wave and enjoy the ride.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18507842
> 
> 
> I used ARC v2.4 to produce the older solution.
> 
> 
> No, I have had the speakers for a while, so, I am pretty sure they are good and broken in. I was always told to never look a gift horse in the mouth. So, I am just going to smile and wave and enjoy the ride.



I asked Nick about this and his sense is it was the combo of firmware + the new ARC version that did it. Don't want you to think it was magic







and that it could revert back at some time without explanation.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18508165
> 
> 
> I asked Nick about this and his sense is it was the combo of firmware + the new ARC version that did it. Don't want you to think it was magic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and that it could revert back at some time without explanation.
> 
> John



Thanks for the follow-up. I appreciate that.


----------



## jayray

For anyone using a media server, with their Anthems, wondered if any of them do HD sound formats?

thanks,

John


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18508221
> 
> 
> For anyone using a media server, with their Anthems, wondered if any of them do HD sound formats?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



I have my Popcorn hour C200 bitstream DTS-MA and Dolby True HD to my AVM50V.


Alvin


----------



## KX250F

Does anyone know the specific changes that where made to the D2v over the D2. I know the processing board was changed out to add more HDMI and a newer processing chip, but I'm talking about other things.


If you look at inside pictures of a D2 and a D2v you see some differences. The D2 had two transformers on the one side and a black video board. The D2v looks as though it has no transformers and a red video board. This is just one example of changes that I can see clearly with my own eyes. I am trying to find out if there was any others, and how did they effect the performance of the D2v


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18508437
> 
> 
> I have my Popcorn hour C200 bitstream DTS-MA and Dolby True HD to my AVM50V.
> 
> 
> Alvin



I was looking at Western digital and Seagate but they didn't have any models that did TrueHD and DTS-MA. Thanks for the info.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18508437
> 
> 
> I have my Popcorn hour C200 bitstream DTS-MA and Dolby True HD to my AVM50V.
> 
> 
> Alvin



Alvin,

How satisfied are you with your popcorn c200? If you rip a bd to it, are you saying the sound format on the popcorn is identical to what was on the original bd and that the signal gets bitstreamed to the AVM50 without any loss of quality?

John


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18503155
> 
> 
> About a month or so ago, I downloaded and installed v1.47f. The reason for the download was to resolve some HDMI issues which it did. I also noticed that the sound improved. I normally listen at volume level -10 which is 75db. Very surprising to me, -10 for v1.47f sounded very strong than what I was normally use to hearing. So, since I had some time this weekend, I decided to rerun ARC, and this is what I noticed between v1.33 and v1.47f.
> 
> 
> 1) 75db with 1.33 was 7.0. 75db with v1.47f was -2.5.
> 
> 2) The measured sub response for v1.47f looks better than v1.33
> 
> 
> I have attached the charts from the latest ARC run and my old sub measurement from 1.33. Has anyone who went from v1.33 to v1.47f noticed any differences in the sound?
> 
> 
> I'm really enjoying what I am hearing.



I have a D2. Is Version 1.47 now reliable enough to install on my D2?

I do have a newer D2 bought after the ARC came out. ( I understand older D2's don't work well with 1.47 correct?)

I currently am using v1.33.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18508221
> 
> 
> For anyone using a media server, with their Anthems, wondered if any of them do HD sound formats?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



You might want to look at the Popcorn Hour C-200. It plays Blu-ray rips with DTS-HD and Dolby True HD. The formats are currently working but not fully supported though the chip firmware update is supposed to be available soon. It plays excellently thru my D2 with LPCM. If you have a D2v it will be even better playing bitstream. The D2v also plays WAV and FLAC audio files up to 192/24.

The D2 up to 96/24.

If you do a Blu-Ray Folder rip the file contains everything that was on the original disk. Menus,languages,audio formats etc though the files are large. Average 30g to 40g.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/18508875
> 
> 
> You might want to look at the Popcorn Hour C-200. It plays Blu-ray rips with DTS-HD and Dolby True HD. The formats are currently working but not fully supported though the chip firmware update is supposed to be available soon. It plays excellently thru my D2 with LPCM. If you have a D2v it will be even better playing bitstream. The D2v also plays WAV and FLAC audio files up to 192/24.
> 
> The D2 up to 96/24.
> 
> If you do a Blu-Ray Folder rip the file contains everything that was on the original disk. Menus,languages,audio formats etc though the files are large. Average 30g to 40g.



Thanks, I am now looking at features. I have a 1 Tb external drive which I understand can be connected to the popcorn and it to my D2v, instead of installing an internal drive in the popcorn. The BD drive would go into my desktop computer. Does that sound right?

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18508974
> 
> 
> Thanks, I am now looking at features. I have a 1 Tb external drive which I understand can be connected to the popcorn and it to my D2v, instead of installing an internal drive in the popcorn. The BD drive would go into my desktop computer. Does that sound right?
> 
> John



You should install a SATA hard drive into the PCH C-200 to hold the NMT applications. There has been some development on the beta site to use an external USB drive for the applications. The SATA drive can be small, or larger if you want to also store some media files. I have an inexpensive 2.5 " 500g laptop drive internally mounted in mine.

Yes, if you are going to rip BD discs you need a BD burner in your desktop.

If you have a WHS or a NAS you can stream your media files over ethernet to the PCH and then use HDMI to the D2v.

I have not tried an external USB HDD for streaming Blu-Ray. You will fill the 1tb pretty quick. About 20 BD movies if you save the menu and multiple audio tracks and video at 1920 X 1080.


Sorry guys if we are getting to OT.


----------



## 13ege




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18506477
> 
> 
> Why there is no information about d2v's power components? For example Denon's AVP has 2 toroidal power transformers and independent power supplies etc.. What about d2v's power features?
> 
> 
> I'm weak when it comes to power things. Are there any advantages,disadvantages for d2v? Do they effect performance?



any information?


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18509962
> 
> 
> any information?



Don't forget that the Denon you are looking at likely has built in amplification and the Anthem does not. That significantly changes the power requirements of the device...


Don't let marketing junk be justification for you belief in quality...


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13ege* /forum/post/18509962
> 
> 
> any information?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/18510046
> 
> 
> Don't forget that the Denon you are looking at likely has built in amplification and the Anthem does not. That significantly changes the power requirements of the device...
> 
> 
> Don't let marketing junk be justification for you belief in quality...



The Denon does not have amplification.


But I agree with your sentiment, Anthem is very careful about it's power supplies and other other manafacturers drop words like toroidal as if it was be be and end all.


13ege: If no-one is responnding to you here on your specific question drop Anthem an email, I am sure they will get back to you in 24-48 hours with an answer.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /forum/post/18509536
> 
> 
> You should install a SATA hard drive into the PCH C-200 to hold the NMT applications. There has been some development on the beta site to use an external USB drive for the applications. The SATA drive can be small, or larger if you want to also store some media files. I have an inexpensive 2.5 " 500g laptop drive internally mounted in mine.
> 
> Yes, if you are going to rip BD discs you need a BD burner in your desktop.
> 
> If you have a WHS or a NAS you can stream your media files over ethernet to the PCH and then use HDMI to the D2v.
> 
> I have not tried an external USB HDD for streaming Blu-Ray. You will fill the 1tb pretty quick. About 20 BD movies if you save the menu and multiple audio tracks and video at 1920 X 1080.
> 
> 
> Sorry guys if we are getting to OT.



Thanks for your help Alvin,

John


----------



## 13ege

I tried but I guess Anthem guys are busy with their avrs.







I'm really curious about D2v's power section.


And yes, the Denon which I talk about does not have amplification.


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrfixit58* /forum/post/18503933
> 
> 
> I have been wanting the D2V for quite some time. It seems to be at he top of the list of processors. Is there any reason to hold off buying a D2v now? Will I be missing out on any new features? I am also looking for amps to power my Pmc 0B1s. Anthem P5,P2 or Bryston or? I can buy a P5 demo for 4500. A new D2v for 6400. Wondering if these prices are in the ballpark? Feedback would be great, because I want to buy some great electronics. Thanks
> 
> mrfixit58



I'm intrigued, what currency is the "6400"... here in the UK the Retail price is given as £8,500, so even if its £6,400, it is way better than in rip-off Britain. If I could buy a D2V at "6400", I don't care about the currency, I would pay cash now.


Regards


Russell


----------



## jbtco

Anthem great kit but here in UK they are having a laught (at our expense) on pricing. The joke is on me I am afraid as I have had an AVM50v for a few months which I am changing to aD2v (dealer is giving me full retail value for DVM) and a P5 (currently using Cyrus MonoXs).


----------



## mrfixit58

That is US currency.


----------



## mrfixit58

Being a rookie I still realize that things change constantly.It seems to me that 3D is silly and years off from being a viable offering. HDMI 1.3 vs 1.4 not having researched it, what is the difference and is it something worth waiting for or is it another feature that may take years to implement?


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrfixit58* /forum/post/18511296
> 
> 
> Being a rookie I still realize that things change constantly.It seems to me that 3D is silly and years off from being a viable offering. HDMI 1.3 vs 1.4 not having researched it, what is the difference and is it something worth waiting for or is it another feature that may take years to implement?



Here ya go:

http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_1_4/index.aspx 


And here too:

http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdm...i_1_4_faq.aspx


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *b curry* /forum/post/18511399
> 
> 
> Here ya go.
> 
> http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_1_4/index.aspx



It is one thing to write a spec, it's another thing entirely to produce a product that reliabily meets that spec requirement. Look at the number of companies that have really struggled with implementing the current specs for HDMI and HDCP realiably, even our wonderful Anthem to some extent.


I find it really frustrating that with each turn there is a new spec for HDMI which will leave people with older spec expensive machines high & dry. This latest one especially so, I for one do not want to watch 3D on my 60 inch plasma, having to wear glasses. In my opinion it only has gimmick value unless you have a screen that really envelops you.


Why do I need ethernet over HDMI, what is wrong with having a seperate input & cable for that?


This is way off topic so I will stop my ranting and raving now.


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/18511559
> 
> 
> It is one thing to write a spec, it's another thing entirely to produce a product that reliabily meets that spec requirement. Look at the number of companies that have really struggled with implementing the current specs for HDMI and HDCP realiably, even our wonderful Anthem to some extent.
> 
> 
> I find it really frustrating that with each turn there is a new spec for HDMI which will leave people with older spec expensive machines high & dry. This latest one especially so, I for one do not want to watch 3D on my 60 inch plasma, having to wear glasses. In my opinion it only has gimmick value unless you have a screen that really envelops you.
> 
> 
> Why do I need ethernet over HDMI, what is wrong with having a seperate input & cable for that?
> 
> 
> This is way off topic so I will stop my ranting and raving now.



Sorry, I believe your complaint is with HDMI. You seem to have mistaken me for someone who cares. I'm just the messenger here, as mrfixit58 asked for more information and I provided him with a link.


What you need, what you think you need, what others need, and what the HDMI organization thinks you need are no doubt different needs. What is a fact is that when the standard changes and your and my equipment are *rendered obsolete* we will have a choice to make. From my view it's always nice to know the enemies plan.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *b curry* /forum/post/18511656
> 
> 
> Sorry, I believe your complaint is with HDMI. You seem to have mistaken me for someone who cares. I'm just the messenger here, as mrfixit58 asked for more information and I provided him with a link.
> 
> 
> What you need, what you think you need, what others need, and what the HDMI organization thinks you need are no doubt different needs. What is a fact is that when the standard changes and your and my equipment are *rendered obsolete* we will have a choice to make. From my view it's always nice to know the enemies plan.



my apologies, I wasn't trying to shoot the messenger, just venting.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/18507402
> 
> 
> Are you saying that the new Motorola boxes actually work over HDMI?



Yes. It works perfectly... Even set to native. Dcx box and 1.47 firmware on my d2


----------



## mrfixit58

Holy crap, this is a can of worms when considering dropping serious cash on a processor!

Now what?


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrfixit58* /forum/post/18512758
> 
> 
> Holy crap, this is a can of worms when considering dropping serious cash on a processor!
> 
> Now what?



You go to the dance or you stay at home and have wet dreams about it.


To quote Roseanne Roseannadanna, "It's always something!"


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/18508802
> 
> 
> I have a D2. Is Version 1.47 now reliable enough to install on my D2?
> 
> I do have a newer D2 bought after the ARC came out. ( I understand older D2's don't work well with 1.47 correct?)
> 
> I currently am using v1.33.



I have not encountered any problems with v1.47f for my D2. A very slight inconvenience is tabbing amongst the different sources, I have noticed it's doing some handshaking and sometimes the screen goes blank for a second or two until the handshake is done. That's a minor problem to me. The benefits of v1.47f definitely outweighs that minor inconvenience in my book. Just make sure you have the D2 that will allow you to install v1.47f without any problems such as making sure the video board is red.


----------



## Milwaukeesk

This was asked a year or so ago with no answer yet... anybody know anything more?:


Is there a manual for the live video settings editor? I am trying to find out how to use the advanced video settings, specifically the custom gamma correction.


Thanks


----------



## pgiralt

I finally got my D2V and this is my first attempt (well, really 3rd pass) at running ARC on my system. I'm curious on any comments as to how I might be able to improve any of the results. There are a few things that stand out to me.


First of all, the target line seems a lot higher that some of the other graphs I've seen posted here. Usually they seem to hover around 75 dB and in my case they are closer to 88 dB. Is this an issue?


Secondly, there seems to be a huge drop in the upper frequencies and the graph seems to be fairly consistent for all the speakers in all positions in the room (both front, center, and surrounds). What could be causing such a significant drop? The microphone is pretty well aligned with the tweeter position, although the tweeters do not point directly to the center listening position - they are aimed further outward.


It doesn't seem like ARC is doing much in the way of correction on the Center channel above 1 kHz. Any reason for this?


Also, I played around with moving my subs which is why I ended up with 2 other passes before this. Before moving them to their current position, I was getting a huge dip at 50 Hz and ARC was not doing a terribly good job at correcting it. Now there is a peak around 30 Hz, but it's smoother after that and it looks like ARC is able to handle this much better.


Finally, my L/R surrounds and Rears are the same type of speaker (Aerial SR3's). Why does it choose different frequencies for the two (95 vs 105)?


In case it matters, my system consists of:


Front L/R: Aerial 10T

Center: Aerial CC5

Surrounds/Rear: Aerial SR3


Front L/R Amp: Levinson No. 432

Front Center Amp: Levinson No. 436

Surround Amps: Proceed AMP2 (x2)


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18513550
> 
> 
> I have not encountered any problems with v1.47f for my D2. A very slight inconvenience is tabbing amongst the different sources, I have noticed it's doing some handshaking and sometimes the screen goes blank for a second or two until the handshake is done. That's a minor problem to me. The benefits of v1.47f definitely outweighs that minor inconvenience in my book. Just make sure you have the D2 that will allow you to install v1.47f without any problems such as making sure the video board is red.



My video board is red. So is v1.47 considered a finished upgrade and not experimental?


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pgiralt* /forum/post/18514858
> 
> 
> First of all, the target line seems a lot higher that some of the other graphs I've seen posted here. Usually they seem to hover around 75 dB and in my case they are closer to 88 dB. Is this an issue?



Did you follow Bob's procedure for calibrating the speakers and setting them all to 75db first? Look's as if you missed this step in the procedure and they are all running too hot.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pgiralt* /forum/post/18514858
> 
> 
> First of all, the target line seems a lot higher that some of the other graphs I've seen posted here. Usually they seem to hover around 75 dB and in my case they are closer to 88 dB. Is this an issue?



As Mike said you need to set your reference level before you start. Bob P explains how to do this every other ARC post. It is really not that big a deal and you can go in and turn down the reference by about 10db and be fine.



> Quote:
> Secondly, there seems to be a huge drop in the upper frequencies and the graph seems to be fairly consistent for all the speakers in all positions in the room (both front, center, and surrounds). What could be causing such a significant drop? The microphone is pretty well aligned with the tweeter position, although the tweeters do not point directly to the center listening position - they are aimed further outward.



Many if not the majority of us see that. I personally think the mic is not calibrated or too directional up there. Looking at your graphs I'd consider starting at a max frequency of 5Khz and slowly work your way up and see how it sounds. I believe there is a reason Anthem defaults to 5khz. No need to remeasure just recalc and upload.


> Quote:
> It doesn't seem like ARC is doing much in the way of correction on the Center channel above 1 kHz. Any reason for this?



Possibly running out of resources which is another reason to scale back on your max freq.



> Quote:
> Also, I played around with moving my subs which is why I ended up with 2 other passes before this. Before moving them to their current position, I was getting a huge dip at 50 Hz and ARC was not doing a terribly good job at correcting it. Now there is a peak around 30 Hz, but it's smoother after that and it looks like ARC is able to handle this much better.
> 
> 
> Finally, my L/R surrounds and Rears are the same type of speaker (Aerial SR3's). Why does it choose different frequencies for the two (95 vs 105)?



Placement is everything when it comes to subwoofers yours looks very good in the graphs. As far as the surrounds go I'd guess location and pointing. Is it a perfectly symmetrical room?


Your room gain is a little low so you might want to play with that a and see how it sounds. Overall not a bad first try I'd like to see the center issue cleaned up though. I'm sure Bob P will be around soon and give you some much better tips.


----------



## SMabille_UK

Hi,


I have a few questions regarding the Dolby Volume Beta, and wonder if anybody (Bob) could help me:


- In level calibration: What is the Dolby offset and how does it interact with Test level, as the manual says to increase both to 75db on SPL.


- Do you use DV for every sources to take advantage of the loudness like effect or just on cable/sat sources to level commercials and channels disparities?


- For the upgrade, as there is no setup editor with DV, I suspect I restore my ARC, settings as usual then manually edit DV ones?


Thanks,

Stephane


----------



## mkaye

i am using Zone 1 to feed an audio distribution system

i would like to use the 'Copy from Main' facility, but...

when i set this on, when i select the Tuner, it is copying from Main & it appears that the Tuner is selected in Main

i don't want Main to select the Tuner, i just want the digital sources from Main?

i might be misunderstanding the display...


mark


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/18515092
> 
> 
> My video board is red. So is v1.47 considered a finished upgrade and not experimental?



I second this request. I too have been waiting to find out if (a) 1.47f is final or will ever be made final, and (b) we'll ever hear if the D2's are done being supported. One grows concerned now that they seem to be "legacy" product, and won't receive further mods. I have a D1-HD (D1 upgraded to D2) with toroid PS but red video board.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

V1.47f is still "test" firmware for the AVM 50 and D2. It is not on the public download page. I don't know if they even can make it work on the AVM 50 and D2 production runs where it doesn't work now. If not, then they can't make it "official" for the product.


On the other hand, except for the few folks who tried it on hardware where it can't work (before we found out about that limitation), I don't know of anyone having any significant problems with it, so it seems pretty safe, and by all accounts it is an improvement over V1.33.


Once again, if your video board is red *OR* your power supply does not have the big, donut shaped transformer, then V1.47f will work on your AVM 50 or D2 unit.


If your video board is gray or green *AND* your power supply has the donut, then V1.47f MAY work on your unit, but there's no easy way for you to tell so you should probably not try it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18516171
> 
> 
> i am using Zone 1 to feed an audio distribution system
> 
> i would like to use the 'Copy from Main' facility, but...
> 
> when i set this on, when i select the Tuner, it is copying from Main & it appears that the Tuner is selected in Main
> 
> i don't want Main to select the Tuner, i just want the digital sources from Main?
> 
> i might be misunderstanding the display...
> 
> 
> mark



Only the Main path can "process" digital audio sources. Conversion to analog is processing. See Manual sections 2.2 and 4.3.


So to get analog audio output on Zone 2 from a digital audio source, that digital audio source must be processed through the Main path -- which means selected in the Main path. If you don't want the source selected in Main as well then you must also hook up ANALOG audio inputs from it, at which point you no longer need Copy From Main.


That said, the AM/FM Tuner is not a digital audio source, so you don't need Copy From Main to get analog audio Tuner output on Zone 2.

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18516171
> 
> 
> i am using Zone 1 to feed an audio distribution system
> 
> i would like to use the 'Copy from Main' facility, but...
> 
> when i set this on, when i select the Tuner, it is copying from Main & it appears that the Tuner is selected in Main
> 
> i don't want Main to select the Tuner, i just want the digital sources from Main?
> 
> i might be misunderstanding the display...
> 
> 
> mark



Copy from Main is exactly that, whatever is playing on main will play on the zones an this is the only way to have digital sources going to the zones.


To be honest in my opinion the best way to supply zones is by feeding the source as a digital signal for the mains and duplicating the input as analog for the zones. Since most sources have both digital and analog outputs it is just a matter of running the extra RCA cables and setting up the inputs on the Anthem correctly. This way you can have different inputs gong to the main and zones.


My only component with added complexity is my Mac Mini since it uses the same socket for digital and analog outputs. For this I use the digital signal into a optical splitter then feed one leg directly into the Anthem preserving the digital signal (PCM, DTS, DD, etc). The other leg goes throu a DAC and feeds the Anthem via an alaog input.


Also if you use Copy from Main and it happens to be a multi-channel signal that you actually want to play on main it will not do it without first switching off the Copy from Main. It plays a down converted two channel signal.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SMabille_UK* /forum/post/18515953
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I have a few questions regarding the Dolby Volume Beta, and wonder if anybody (Bob) could help me:
> 
> 
> - In level calibration: What is the Dolby offset and how does it interact with Test level, as the manual says to increase both to 75db on SPL.
> 
> 
> - Do you use DV for every sources to take advantage of the loudness like effect or just on cable/sat sources to level commercials and channels disparities?
> 
> 
> - For the upgrade, as there is no setup editor with DV, I suspect I restore my ARC, settings as usual then manually edit DV ones?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Stephane



Nobody is really sure yet what the intended interaction is between Test Level and Dolby Offset (both in Setup > Level Calibration). At a guess, if you set your normal calibration level to something other than 75dB, you can use Dolby Offset to to tell Dolby Volume what adjustment is needed to get BACK to 75dB as that seems to be something Dolby Volume cares about.


If you use 75dB as your normal calibration level, then Dolby Offset of 0dB is probably what you want.


Personally, I'm only using Dolby Volume for cable TV right now -- and only DV Music at that. And I'm not convinced I like it yet even for that.


When you install "test" V2.08h, you will find that factory default settings have been used for Dolby Volume. In Level Calibration, Dolby Offset is at 0dB. In Setup > Source Setup for each Source, Dolby Volume Movie is selected, the Leveling is set to 9, and Half Mode is ON for each Source.


To use V2.08h and *NOT* use Dolby Volume, that means you need to go into Setup > Source Setup for each Source and turn Dolby Volume OFF. All the other DV settings can be left as is since they are ignored with DV OFF for a Source.


You can also change between DV OFF, Movie, and Music on the fly while viewing a Source by pressing and holding the "0" button (and then Up/Down arrows to change). Any such change alters the Setup > Source Setup setting for that Source (i.e., it is permanent, not temporary).


We've been told to expect changes in the user interface for Dolby Volume, but I don't know how soon that might happen.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/18514615
> 
> 
> This was asked a year or so ago with no answer yet... anybody know anything more?:
> 
> 
> Is there a manual for the live video settings editor? I am trying to find out how to use the advanced video settings, specifically the custom gamma correction.
> 
> 
> Thanks



There is no manual for Live Video Settings Editor, but using the custom gamma correction portion of it is not that complicated.


You can ask LVSE to build you an exponential curve at a given level and then you can modify the curve from there. You can do that either for a single gray scale curve or for separate R, G, B curves. Once your custom correction is set the way you like it, you Upload that to the Anthem and it then becomes available for use in Video Source Adjust > Output for each Source.


The COMPLICATED part is figuring out what curves you should use! LVSE is not a video measurement tool, so you'll need some other program along with a 3 color optical sensor to see what your display is actually putting out. The procedure for deciding how to correct that is not straightforward, which is why calibration techs get the big bucks. For example, it is unlikely you would guess on your own that concentrating on Green first is usually wise.


It is often the case that compromises are involved. And you have to be aware that the optical sensors typically don't work very well at the low light end of the scale -- which means you may need to make some final choices by eye.


Fortunately there is a whole forum here on video calibration where you can ask questions about things like that.


This is an iterative process: Measure your display's output, adjust correction curves, Upload them, rinse and repeat until you like the result.


ETA: I should add that Gamma Correction is *BEST* done inside the display itself. So do what you can with the display's controls (such as they might be). Then use the Anthem's controls to refine from there as needed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrfixit58* /forum/post/18512758
> 
> 
> Holy crap, this is a can of worms when considering dropping serious cash on a processor!
> 
> Now what?



At ANY point in time there will be new features coming that are not in current products. Major corporations pay their employees big bucks to insure that. They not only want your money now. They also want it AGAIN 6 months from now.


Personally I think 3D will be a fiasco, and HDMI V1.4 scares the bejabbers out of me. I predict threads here from folks complaining their home network goes down when they change TV channels because the "ethernet" implementation in HDMI V1.4 is a kludge (it is NOT the same as regular ethernet over Cat 5 cable, as there aren't enough free wires in the HDMI cable to even try to do that).


But then I've always been a bit of a Luddite.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KX250F* /forum/post/18508566
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the specific changes that where made to the D2v over the D2. I know the processing board was changed out to add more HDMI and a newer processing chip, but I'm talking about other things.
> 
> 
> If you look at inside pictures of a D2 and a D2v you see some differences. The D2 had two transformers on the one side and a black video board. The D2v looks as though it has no transformers and a red video board. This is just one example of changes that I can see clearly with my own eyes. I am trying to find out if there was any others, and how did they effect the performance of the D2v
> 
> 
> Thanks



The video board (including HDMI) is entirely new. Even analog video (both in and out) is improved. Specs for HDMI input and output are significantly different (both audio and video).


The digital audio processing is entirely new -- new DSPs for example.


The power supply is, I believe the same, and I don't know of any specific changes in the analog output stage but it certainly sounds better.


There is a Data Sheet for the D2v on the Anthem site that touts the changes:

http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-...-2v/literature 


--Bob


----------



## Milwaukeesk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18517148
> 
> 
> There is no manual for Live Video Settings Editor, but using the custom gamma correction portion of it is not that complicated.
> 
> 
> You can ask LVSE to build you an exponential curve at a given level and then you can modify the curve from there. You can do that either for a single gray scale curve or for separate R, G, B curves. Once your custom correction is set the way you like it, you Upload that to the Anthem and it then becomes available for use in Video Source Adjust > Output for each Source.
> 
> 
> The COMPLICATED part is figuring out what curves you should use! LVSE is not a video measurement tool, so you'll need some other program along with a 3 color optical sensor to see what your display is actually putting out. The procedure for deciding how to correct that is not straightforward, which is why calibration techs get the big bucks. For example, it is unlikely you would guess on your own that concentrating on Green first is usually wise.
> 
> 
> It is often the case that compromises are involved. And you have to be aware that the optical sensors typically don't work very well at the low light end of the scale -- which means you may need to make some final choices by eye.
> 
> 
> Fortunately there is a whole forum here on video calibration where you can ask questions about things like that.
> 
> 
> This is an iterative process: Measure your display's output, adjust correction curves, Upload them, rinse and repeat until you like the result.
> 
> 
> ETA: I should add that Gamma Correction is *BEST* done inside the display itself. So do what you can with the display's controls (such as they might be). Then use the Anthem's controls to refine from there as needed.
> 
> --Bob



Great info! Thanks Bob. I actually have been teaching myself the art of video calibration and purchased a colorimeter. I have successfully calibrated my projector, but still have some issues with the gamma which has drawn me to the LVSE. Based on your comments, I will plan on experimenting some with the custom curves to fix what my projector is currently displaying. Long and short of it... I was hoping it would be somewhat easier than it appears it is







I was wishing I could enter in some readings (from the colorimeter and calibration software) based on what my display is currently showing and then have the Anthem calculate what adjustments needed to be made to achieve a desired flat (2.2) gamma curve.


Thanks again for your explanation.


----------



## steve_noodles

I've been feverishly searching the internet for a database or listing of all the RS-232 codes available for the AVM-50. Can anyone help me?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steve_noodles* /forum/post/18518120
> 
> 
> I've been feverishly searching the internet for a database or listing of all the RS-232 codes available for the AVM-50. Can anyone help me?



Sure. Download the ARC V2.4 install kit from Anthem's public download pages. E.g.:

http://anthemav.com/downloads/anthem...m-50v/software 


(Note, this is the download page for the AVM 50v, but no matter.)


UnZip the download, and in the resulting folders you will find an XLS (Excel spreadsheet) file with the complete specs on the RS-232 command set as well as a TXT file documenting version changes in it.


Note that some commands are exclusive to the D2v and AVM 50v, and some commands are exclusive to Dolby Volume, so those won't be available on your AVM 50. See the TXT file.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/18517906
> 
> 
> Great info! Thanks Bob. I actually have been teaching myself the art of video calibration and purchased a colorimeter. I have successfully calibrated my projector, but still have some issues with the gamma which has drawn me to the LVSE. Based on your comments, I will plan on experimenting some with the custom curves to fix what my projector is currently displaying. Long and short of it... I was hoping it would be somewhat easier than it appears it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was wishing I could enter in some readings (from the colorimeter and calibration software) based on what my display is currently showing and then have the Anthem calculate what adjustments needed to be made to achieve a desired flat (2.2) gamma curve.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your explanation.



To get a feel for it, I suggest you start with the "simple" Exponential Gamma Correction which is accessible directly in Video Source Adjust > Output. That's a gray scale curve of course, with just the one parameter. It will give you a start on what degree of exponential correction gets you close without you having to spend time building and uploading curves. Then go into LVSE to refine things.


You will likely find that a bit of work with a hand calculator will give you a leg up on how to adjust the curves to achieve a desired degree of correction.


Lots of devices have gamma curves with control points, so you will likely find advice in the Video Calibration forum here on how to get started.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/18516598
> 
> 
> I second this request. I too have been waiting to find out if (a) 1.47f is final or will ever be made final, and (b) we'll ever hear if the D2's are done being supported. One grows concerned now that they seem to be "legacy" product, and won't receive further mods. I have a D1-HD (D1 upgraded to D2) with toroid PS but red video board.



FWIW I tried v1.47f and have reverted to v1.33.

With v1.47 the handshakes were quicker to lock in. I also noticed improved audio. I am not sure if it was perceived or real and there is no way to quantify the improvement, but to me the improvement seemed in the way the surrounds were integrated in to the mix.

The volume with v1.47f was definitly boosted. I needed to change my 'volume level on' setting from -35db to -45db. When I went to run a new ARC reading after installing v1.47f (originally I just uploaded the last ARC run with v1.33), the volume on the sweeps were way loud. I needed to go into set-up>level calibration>noise level. When I went to reduce it, the level jumped from 0.0 to -10.0. Not 0.0> -0.5> -1.0. There was definitly a volume glitch with v1.47f in my D2.

There was also a handshake delay in the source setup menu when changing from one source to another. It can be made easier to deal with by looking at the front panel display rather than the on screen display to choose the source. The osd will lock into the source and you can use the osd from there on to make changes.

Because of the volume quirks with v1.47f, I chose to revert back to v1.33. But I did like the audio better with v1.47f. If you are having bad handshake problems with v1.33, or if you just want to try v1.47 and you have the red video board, then there is no reason not to try it. You can always change back to v1.33 if you want. I am waiting for a more stable version of the v1.47f firmware to be officially released.


Now for my main concern.

Yesterday I clicked on my 'favorite' bookmark for the Anthem D2 page to see if there had been a new official firmware on the download page. I was sent to the D2v page. After much searching for the D2 I finally found it in the "DISCONTIUED PRODUCTS" page. OUCH!!









I have to wonder what Anthem's commitment to its D2 owners is now that the D2 has been banished to the "DISCONTINUED PRODUCTS" page. Will there be any more firmware upgrades? Are we now considered Discontinued Owners becuse we have chosen to not buy the D2v?


Tom


----------



## drhankz

I have seen many people ask various questions about 3D

Technology. Attached is a GREAT article recently published

in Widescreen Review. Bob P. can read it and translate it

to ENGLISH for the rest of us























*Everything you ever wanted to KNOW about 3D*

 

3D-WSR.pdf 459.052734375k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That 3D write up is depressing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

tngiloy,

But the D2 *IS* a discontinued product. Anthem doesn't sell it any more. To give it equal coverage with the D2v on the web site would confuse customers coming to the web site looking for info on the products Anthem does sell.


I think a better concern here is whether it is an "abandoned" product in the sense of whether there will ever be any additional firmware updates for it.


---------------------------------


The handshake delay when moving between Source lines in the Setup menu also exists in the D2v. The new HDMI code does a handshake when you change lines like that because there is actually a Source change going on in the background -- which is why you can hear the HDMI audio from the new Source for example while you are making audio changes in the Setup menu.


The volume difference you encountered sounds like the apparent 6dB bug in the way ARC interprets the Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level setting.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18522584
> 
> 
> That 3D write up is depressing.
> 
> --Bob



I SEE that as a GOOD THING










WHY?

Because that way we'll all be HAPPY with what we HAVE


----------



## obie_fl

You can almost see Reber rolling his eyes during that "interview".


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18522613
> 
> 
> tngiloy,
> 
> But the D2 *IS* a discontinued product. Anthem doesn't sell it any more. To give it equal coverage with the D2v on the web site would confuse customers coming to the web site looking for info on the products Anthem does sell.
> 
> 
> I think a better concern here is whether it is an "abandoned" product in the sense of whether there will ever be any additional firmware updates for it.
> 
> 
> --Bob



This is also the root of my concern. There are still unresolved software issues with the D2, and the decision was made not to offer hardware upgrades for it as well. As a result, the D2 owners are left with status quo, trade in the D2 for a D2V for upwards of $4K, or by a new D2V and try and sell the D2. I understand the business issues here, but it's not what I expected after reading many early posts here about Anthem support.


I don't think we D2 owners are looking for new features at no cost, or unlimited hardware updates - at this point I believe we'd settle for firmware where all original features that just work properly, such as HDMI handshakes, ARC, etc. Here's hoping that v1.33 isn't the end of the road, and that we at least get a properly working v1.47.


Forgive my rant.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/18522853
> 
> 
> This is also the root of my concern. There are still unresolved software issues with the D2, and the decision was made not to offer hardware upgrades for it as well. As a result, the D2 owners are left with status quo, trade in the D2 for a D2V for upwards of $4K, or by a new D2V and try and sell the D2. I understand the business issues here, but it's not what I expected after reading many early posts here about Anthem support.
> 
> 
> I don't think we D2 owners are looking for new features at no cost, or unlimited hardware updates - at this point I believe we'd settle for firmware where all original features that just work properly, such as HDMI handshakes, ARC, etc. Here's hoping that v1.33 isn't the end of the road, and that we at least get a properly working v1.47.
> 
> 
> Forgive my rant.



I'm sorry to disagree







with you but I'm a D2 Owner - FW 1.33

and I don't have a single problem with ANY FEATURE.


----------



## JimP

So how much is the upgrade to go from a D2 to a D2V?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/18522853
> 
> 
> This is also the root of my concern. There are still unresolved software issues with the D2, and the decision was made not to offer hardware upgrades for it as well. As a result, the D2 owners are left with status quo, trade in the D2 for a D2V for upwards of $4K, or by a new D2V and try and sell the D2. I understand the business issues here, but it's not what I expected after reading many early posts here about Anthem support.
> 
> 
> I don't think we D2 owners are looking for new features at no cost, or unlimited hardware updates - at this point I believe we'd settle for firmware where all original features that just work properly, such as HDMI handshakes, ARC, etc. Here's hoping that v1.33 isn't the end of the road, and that we at least get a properly working v1.47.
> 
> 
> Forgive my rant.



I emailed Anthem tech and asked about further firmware updates. This is the response verbatim:

Thomas,


There will be another final release but I don't believe there will be anymore after that.


After that there will be no support(firmware wise) for the D2.


Regards,

Andrew Cirurgiao

Technical support



When I asked when the new firmware was due I got the expected, "when the engineers say it's ready."


So, Bob, it appears that after the next firmware release that the D2 will become an "abandoned" product as well as a discontinued one.

The setup handshake delay I understand. The 6 db volume problems I encountered do sound like the ones you are referring to. I assume that this is one of the main bugs that need to be fixed before the final D2 firmware is released.


drhankz-

I also find v1.33 to be stable for me, but there are others that may use different sources that don't play well with v1.33 and need to move to v1.47f to cure handshake issues.

Others have also commented on the improved audio that I also noticed with v1.47f. Perhaps this was the same audio improvement that Bob and others reported when they moved up to the D2v from the D2.

If you were able to get better audio with a stable firware upgrade, would you change?

I know I would (will) whenever the official version is available.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

JimP,

It is a trade-in -- you get a completely new D2v (including warranty), not just your D2 back with some parts swapped out -- and runs around $4k I believe. I'm not sure how Anthem's recent price increase might have altered that.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/18523798
> 
> 
> drhankz-
> 
> I also find v1.33 to be stable for me, but there are others that may use different sources that don't play well with v1.33 and need to move to v1.47f to cure handshake issues.
> 
> Others have also commented on the improved audio that I also noticed with v1.47f. Perhaps this was the same audio improvement that Bob and others reported when they moved up to the D2v from the D2.
> 
> If you were able to get better audio with a stable firware upgrade, would you change?
> 
> I know I would (will) whenever the official version is available.
> 
> 
> Tom



TOM


I don't disagree that sources and displays may cause instability with any

HDMI Receiver, AVR and Pre/Pro. Call me Bigoted - but as an engineer,

If it is the source or display - Then I place the BLAME with the Source

or Display and I would THROW out or return that device.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

tngiloy,

I suspect the 6dB issue is actually a problem in the ARC application, not the firmware, although it may only manifest itself when using the newer firmware.


The problem in Setup is that they want the audio from the Source to be active while you are in Setup. So if you change Source lines there's a handshake.


It worked similarly in V1.33 except that it failed under some conditions I suspect because they were not doing a full handshake, thus the new full handshake.


I think they could make it less annoying if they only did it when you pressed Select to enter the new Source line rather than at each step up and down when scrolling through the Source lines.


The problem with releasing V1.47f is that the new HDMI code (ported from the D2v firmware) does not work on some production runs of the AVM 50 and D2. I don't know that they can fix that due to hardware limitations. Nick tells me that less than 1/3 of the units out there would have a problem, but still, making this "official" firmware is a non-starter if that can't be fixed.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Bob,

D2/ARC to D2v....$4899

D2 to D2v....$5299

D1/ARC to D2v...$5699

D1 to D2v...$5899


tjg


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18523865
> 
> 
> tngiloy,
> 
> I suspect the 6dB issue is actually a problem in the ARC application, not the firmware, although it may only manifest itself when using the newer firmware.



Agreed. I was running ARC 2.4 with both. Its not a problem with v1.33, it was with v1.47f.





Bob Pariseau said:


> The problem in Setup is that they want the audio from the Source to be active while you are in Setup. So if you change Source lines there's a handshake.
> 
> 
> It worked similarly in V1.33 except that it failed under some conditions I suspect because they were not doing a full handshake, thus the new full handshake.
> 
> 
> I think they could make it less annoying if they only did it when you pressed Select to enter the new Source line rather than at each step up and down when scrolling through the Source lines.[QUOTE/]
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed. Less anoying is always better. I found that looking at the front panel display I could see which source it was on and stop there and allow the handshake to happen. Also less annoying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18523865
> 
> 
> The problem with releasing V1.47f is that the new HDMI code (ported from the D2v firmware) does not work on some production runs of the AVM 50 and D2. I don't know that they can fix that due to hardware limitations. Nick tells me that less than 1/3 of the units out there would have a problem, but still, making this "official" firmware is a non-starter if that can't be fixed.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would be happy to go to a new 'test' firmware that had the bugs worked out, if there is a problem with an official release.
> 
> 
> Tom
Click to expand...


----------



## JimP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18523800
> 
> 
> JimP,
> 
> It is a trade-in -- you get a completely new D2v (including warranty), not just your D2 back with some parts swapped out -- and runs around $4k I believe. I'm not sure how Anthem's recent price increase might have altered that.
> 
> --Bob



At least they allowed a trade-in. Some companies don't even allow that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/18523902
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> D2/ARC to D2v....$4899
> 
> D2 to D2v....$5299
> 
> D1/ARC to D2v...$5699
> 
> D1 to D2v...$5899
> 
> 
> tjg



Are these the updated prices since the first of the month?

--Bob


----------



## steve_noodles

Thanks Bob! I thought it was the ARC download only.


----------



## pgiralt

Thanks Bob, Mike, and Tom for the tips so far. Attached are my latest calibrations.


I manually set the speaker levels to 75dB (and each sub to 72dB) with a meter before running ARC(although looking at the graphs it looks like I came in around 78dB - I may just blindly lower the overall level by 3dB and try again) and things are looking better.


The Center channel looks much better now. It was definately a problem with having the max freq cranked up so high. Now back at the defualt 5k Level it is able to correct much better. I'll play with it a bit to see if it sounds better moving it up a bit.


Also, the room gain appears to have gone up by itself just with the new levels although it seems a bit lower than a lot of the other postings I've seen. Any suggestions on values to try here? I'm thinking I'll play with this one a bit too to see what difference it makes.


Going to put on Avatar now and see how it sounds


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18523490
> 
> 
> I'm sorry to disagree
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with you but I'm a D2 Owner - FW 1.33
> 
> and I don't have a single problem with ANY FEATURE.



drhankz,


I'm happy you're please with your D2, but mine hangs sometimes handshaking with various sources, so I feel improvement is needed.


Be that as it may, I still would like to see Anthem at least finish what they started with 1.47, assuming tngiloy's feedback from Anthem is true.


By the way, I'm an engineer also (EE), and I like to find solutions for all problems, by defining the source of the problem and fixing it. My sources handshake fine with my $1K Denon receiver, but not with my Anthem, so I look to the Anthem for a solution, hence my dilemma.


Not finding fault here - just expressing my desire for a solution to what I feel is a real problem. Wish me (us) luck.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pgiralt* /forum/post/18525845
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, Mike, and Tom for the tips so far. Attached are my latest calibrations.
> 
> 
> I manually set the speaker levels to 75dB (and each sub to 72dB) with a meter before running ARC(although looking at the graphs it looks like I came in around 78dB - I may just blindly lower the overall level by 3dB and try again) and things are looking better.
> 
> 
> The Center channel looks much better now. It was definately a problem with having the max freq cranked up so high. Now back at the defualt 5k Level it is able to correct much better. I'll play with it a bit to see if it sounds better moving it up a bit.
> 
> 
> Also, the room gain appears to have gone up by itself just with the new levels although it seems a bit lower than a lot of the other postings I've seen. Any suggestions on values to try here? I'm thinking I'll play with this one a bit too to see what difference it makes.
> 
> 
> Going to put on Avatar now and see how it sounds



Yes you can lower test level another 2dB to refine the level. I also think you can manually lower the cutoff for LF/RF a bit -- perhaps to 40Hz -- to use more of the energy they are producing down there.


There is a problem with your sub. It doesn't look to me like a room response problem since it isn't showing in the other speakers.


First check to make sure you have any internal crossover in the sub disabled. If you can't disable it, crank it up the highest possible frequency setting to get it out of the way as much as posible. It looks like it may be enabled and at a very low frequency right now -- perhaps 30Hz. Note that if you do find it was set that far off you will need to RE-adjust the volume level for the sub after you correct that because a lot of bass energy is being discarded.


If you don't find an error like that it is time to do something dramatic. I suggest you move the sub to a very different location such as in the middle of the room and re-Measure for ARC. To speed things up you can tell ARC you only have LF/RF/Sub as speakers and you can leave the mic at the same position for all 5 passes. What you are looking for is whether the huge drop off in Measured sub response still exists between 30 and 100Hz. If so, your sub may need service.


If that drop off goes away or at least changes significantly, then you may just have a particularly bad placement for your sub right now.


This is worth fixing (even though ARC has corrected the sub), as ARC is doing a lot of boosting to correct the sub, and that is part of what is limiting your ability to raise Max EQ Frequency.


After you fix the sub problem, the next step is to tackle whatever is going on at the high frequencies. If you have custom grill cloth over the speakers then the cloth or mounting hardware may be interfering with output from the tweeters. Also check the speaker pointing, particularly the vertical pointing if the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height. LF/RF however should not point at center seating. A good rule of thumb is to swing them only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular to the screen towards the center seating position.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/18525919
> 
> 
> drhankz,
> 
> 
> I'm happy you're please with your D2, but mine hangs sometimes handshaking with various sources, so I feel improvement is needed.
> 
> 
> Be that as it may, I still would like to see Anthem at least finish what they started with 1.47, assuming tngiloy's feedback from Anthem is true.
> 
> 
> By the way, I'm an engineer also (EE), and I like to find solutions for all problems, by defining the source of the problem and fixing it. My sources handshake fine with my $1K Denon receiver, but not with my Anthem, so I look to the Anthem for a solution, hence my dilemma.
> 
> 
> Not finding fault here - just expressing my desire for a solution to what I feel is a real problem. Wish me (us) luck.



As an EE - I hope you FIX other peoples' BUGS.


Sometimes the *MAN-In-The-Middle* just can't fix someone else's Bugs.


When I first got my Anthem - I owned a Runco PJ. It had a HDMI BUG.

I got Runco to fix it - then I threw it into the Cellar, where it still is

today, and bought a SONY - No More Headaches.


----------



## obie_fl

pgiralt - As Bob says something doesn't look right with your sub. However this wasn't there on your first set of readings the other day. Have you changed any sub settings or moved it by chance?


----------



## obie_fl

As an EE with 30yrs in the field, I'll just say sometimes you have to live with the cards that you are dealt and make what you have work.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18526968
> 
> 
> As an EE with 30yrs in the field, I'll just say sometimes you have to live with the cards that you are dealt and make what you have work.



I AGREE and when was the last time you got PAID to fix someone else's Problems.

*BOB P.* Should be inducted into EE Sainthood for being around here and helping

everyone to tweak their Anthem's.


----------



## TJG55

Yes

tjg


----------



## TJG55

Are these the updated prices since the first of the month?

--Bob



yes

tjg


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18497953
> 
> 
> Your Measured curves for LF/RF are looking better with the bass adjustment you made. You don't need more bass in LF/RF. In fact you should turn it down some (but not as far down as you had it before). Try backing it off about 5-8dB. The problem is that the dip at 100Hz (which may very well be a room issue) is causing ARC to use a higher "cutoff" (and thus also "crossover") for LF/RF. So all of that bass is being discarded.
> 
> 
> (If there is a crossover or phase adjustment in the satellite subs for LF/RF those may need tweaking to flatten out that 100Hz dip. I.e., that dip may be the result of a less than optimal transition between the main LF/RF speakers and their attached satellite subs.)
> 
> 
> When you turn down the bass on the LF/RF satellite subs a bit ARC may adjust this on its own -- i.e., it won't feel the need to discard the hot bass and so it will ignore the dip at 100Hz and use a lower cutoff all on its own. But if not, you can adjust the LF/RF cutoff lower yourself in Targets. You could experiment with that now if you'd like, even before adjusting their bass down a bit. You could probably lower the LF/RF cutoff to 40Hz, then check to see if the dip at 100Hz is still being fully corrected.
> 
> 
> Given the lack of adjustment for LS/RS I wouldn't worry about that peak at 200Hz. ARC has it well under control and there's not a problem with the cutoff for LS/RS being as high as 115Hz since your sub goes up that high.
> 
> 
> You are also getting to the point where you should start experimenting with raising Max EQ Frequency in Targets to see how things work out if you tell ARC it is OK to apply corrections above the default 5KHz.
> 
> 
> I'm actually quite encouraged by the improvement in LF/RF Measured curves this time. I think you may be closing in on a good solution.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I can't seem to get rid of that dip at 100hz.

The Def. Tech BP2000' towers with the built in subs don't have a phase or x-over adjustment. They have a gain knob which acts as a bass boost (not used). They also have a Level adjustment knob and an EQ knob which go from -6 to +6. The best setting that I've found is 12 or "0" with the level and +5 with the EQ.

I took your advice and set the towers subs to 40hz. I also set the same 40hz with the stand alone subs. Is this correct or should the stand alone subs setting be different? I also changed the ARC frq. from 5000 to 8000.

Here's the results:


----------



## davoe

My new L/R/C speakers have very high quality tweeters and I became concerned when my ARC measurements showed a steep rolloff after 5kHz. I thought maybe my mic was defective. Especially when you consider the mic positioning was precisely at the tweeters' height. Anthem graciously sent me a new mic and it's corresponding calibration file.


I re-ARC'd my system with the new mic and cal file, taking care not to introduce any new variables. The resultant plots showed that the measured reponses between the new and original microphones were identical up to 5kHz.

After 5k, both mics rolled off in two different wave forms. The new mic rolled off even steeper to a double bottom around 15kHz while the original rolled off more gently to a single bottom.


Conclusion:


Since my system sounds spectacular and both mics behaved quite differently

beyond 5 kHz, I think there is a lot of mic error beyond 5k. I would be very

cautious about extending ARC correction beyond 5 kHz. You may be correcting

a measurement error.


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18529939
> 
> 
> My new L/R/C speakers have very high quality tweeters and I became concerned when my ARC measurements showed a steep rolloff after 5kHz. I thought maybe my mic was defective. Especially when you consider the mic positioning was precisely at the tweeters' height. Anthem graciously sent me a new mic and it's corresponding calibration file.
> 
> 
> I re-ARC'd my system with the new mic and cal file, taking care not to introduce any new variables. The resultant plots showed that the measured reponses between the new and original microphones were identical up to 5kHz.
> 
> After 5k, both mics rolled off in two different wave forms. The new mic rolled off even steeper to a double bottom around 15kHz while the original rolled off more gently to a single bottom.
> 
> 
> Conclusion:
> 
> 
> Since my system sounds spectacular and both mics behaved quite differently
> 
> beyond 5 kHz, I think there is a lot of mic error beyond 5k. I would be very
> 
> cautious about extending ARC correction beyond 5 kHz. You may be correcting
> 
> a measurement error.



Hi Davoe,

If I remember your fronts are Focal Be 1038, me I have Be 1037, identically excepting the tweet 1" vs 1.5" if I remember.

I have looked at your graph, in the LF zone yours are very smooth more close to the target, my speakers show big peaks (around +10 dB versus the target). I don't remember what target settings your are using.

You have put something under the speakers or they are seating direct on the floor?

On the HF zone we are enough close, but I have to take a look at.

What amp you are using to drive them?

If it's possible please show again your measurements, or pm to me.

Thanks.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18529939
> 
> 
> Conclusion:
> 
> 
> Since my system sounds spectacular and both mics behaved quite differently
> 
> beyond 5 kHz, I think there is a lot of mic error beyond 5k. I would be very
> 
> cautious about extending ARC correction beyond 5 kHz. You may be correcting
> 
> a measurement error.



I've come to the same conclusion.







I started hearing sibilance and/or distortion in the high frequencies at the higher calcs. I have since backed down to either 7 or 8 Khz where my rolloff starts and things are sounding really good. There are just too many plots shown here for this to be a speaker or placement issue. I believe it is something intrinsic to the ARC system.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18530100
> 
> 
> I've come to the same conclusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started hearing sibilance and/or distortion in the high frequencies at the higher calcng I have since backed down to either 7 or 8 Khz where my rolloff starts and things are sounding really good. There are just too many plots shown here for this to be a speaker or placement issue. I believe it is something intrinsic to the ARC system.



Nick has told me that above 5K you are taking a chance. I have since gone from 20K to 10K and I can say it sounds better. So your suggestion to decrease the calc. freq is quite right especially if one hears something unusual. I have moved mine down because the curves got better at the low end as I decreased the freq. and the result was better sonicly as well.

John


----------



## davoe

My plots are located at post #27649 on page 922. My targets are as generated by ARC, unaltered. My speakers sit directly on a tile floor. I'm using a new Sunfire TGA-7201 amp.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18529939
> 
> 
> My new L/R/C speakers have very high quality tweeters and I became concerned when my ARC measurements showed a steep rolloff after 5kHz. I thought maybe my mic was defective. Especially when you consider the mic positioning was precisely at the tweeters' height. Anthem graciously sent me a new mic and it's corresponding calibration file.
> 
> 
> I re-ARC'd my system with the new mic and cal file, taking care not to introduce any new variables. The resultant plots showed that the measured reponses between the new and original microphones were identical up to 5kHz.
> 
> After 5k, both mics rolled off in two different wave forms. The new mic rolled off even steeper to a double bottom around 15kHz while the original rolled off more gently to a single bottom.
> 
> 
> Conclusion:
> 
> 
> Since my system sounds spectacular and both mics behaved quite differently
> 
> beyond 5 kHz, I think there is a lot of mic error beyond 5k. I would be very
> 
> cautious about extending ARC correction beyond 5 kHz. You may be correcting
> 
> a measurement error.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18530100
> 
> 
> I've come to the same conclusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started hearing sibilance and/or distortion in the high frequencies at the higher calcs. I have since backed down to either 7 or 8 Khz where my rolloff starts and things are sounding really good. There are just too many plots shown here for this to be a speaker or placement issue. I believe it is something intrinsic to the ARC system.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18530164
> 
> 
> Nick has told me that above 5K you are taking a chance. I have since gone from 20K to 10K and I can say it sounds better. So your suggestion to decrease the calc. freq is quite right especially if one hears something unusual. I have moved mine down because the curves got better at the low end as I decreased the freq. and the result was better sonicly as well.
> 
> John



I came to this conclusion some time ago after blowing up 2 LCY ribbons and apparently a Seas Excel driver. The driver wasn't actually blown but the distortion misaligned the cone(very weird) and I was able to tweak it back into place.

All systems and rooms are different but my experience told me this, the mic is not a reliable device above 5k and the anomalies that are introduced by trying to correct the inaccurate measurement fed into ARC are not just related to boosting the output and can introduce some strange anomalies not limited to the upper frequencies.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18529484
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I can't seem to get rid of that dip at 100hz.
> 
> The Def. Tech BP2000' towers with the built in subs don't have a phase or x-over adjustment. They have a gain knob which acts as a bass boost (not used). They also have a Level adjustment knob and an EQ knob which go from -6 to +6. The best setting that I've found is 12 or "0" with the level and +5 with the EQ.
> 
> I took your advice and set the towers subs to 40hz. I also set the same 40hz with the stand alone subs. Is this correct or should the stand alone subs setting be different? I also changed the ARC frq. from 5000 to 8000.
> 
> Here's the results:



I don't know enough about those speakers to give you any setting advice for them off the top of my head. Perhaps someone else here has experience with them. I'd probably experiment with that "bass boost" to see if it helps fill in that hole you've got now. (E.g., add "bass boost" and lower "level" to compensate. You need to find out what frequency range gets "boosted".)


Lowering the LF/RF cutoff left you with too much residual error in the problem frequency range (given the Measured hole), so you'll need to back that back out.


You do *NOT* want to change the subwoofer cutoff setting the way you did. Put it back where ARC set it. By lowering the subwoofer cutoff you've discarded the high frequency end of the sub output which means it can no longer help out with your other speakers that need help there. The ability of the sub to produce bass at higher frequencies doesn't matter when you lower the cutoff for LF/RF since no bass above that cutoff/crossover will be steered from them to the sub in the first place.


(I.e., there is no problem having different cutoff values for the different speakers.)

--Bob


----------



## MikeCornika

Quote:

Originally Posted by *davoe* 
My plots are located at post #27649 on page 922. My targets are as generated by ARC, unaltered. My speakers sit directly on a tile floor. I'm using a new Sunfire TGA-7201 amp.
What is your opinion about my charts. I drive the fronts with Rotel RMB-1080.

Thanks

 

Fronts-04-23-2010.doc 137k . file

 

Rears-04-23-2010.doc 131.5k . file

 

Targets-04-23-2010.doc 152.5k . file


----------



## davoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18531199
> 
> 
> What is your opinion about my charts. I drive the fronts with Rotel RMB-1080.
> 
> Thanks



I'm not familiar with your room and I think Bob P. Is much better qualified to help you tune your system. Having said that, here are my observations.


1. Your Focals are VERY capable speakers and should provide much smoother plots. I suspect that they need some spatial adjustments.


2. I would start with your sub placement. It is using up valuable ARC resources to try to correct it's output. Until you get it right the rest of the system is going to struggle.


3. From my experience, I would definitely end correction at 5kHz. You need ARC to focus on the lower frequencies and the tweeters in the Focal should shine without any help.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18473721
> 
> 
> Thanks for the ideas here, but still no workie...



Ok, here's an idea. The Geffen HDMI Detective . It sits between the D2 and the display, and remembers the EDID of your display, feeding it back into the D2 even if you disconnect or turn off the display. The D2 thinks it's still there.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18529484
> 
> 
> I can't seem to get rid of that dip at 100hz.



I looked thru many of your posts--but didn't see any mention of how you are connecting to the BP2000s. Is it a) just a single speaker wire feeding all 3 sets of speaker jacks with straps, or b) maybe the woofer is disconnected and driven via the line level input? My gut tells me you have a polarity inversion between the internal sub and the mains--or if not that, some time delay difference.


I cannot see how that can happen with option a), but option b) opens all sorts of possibilities.


And even if you are using option a), it might be worth trying a forced polarity inversion by separating out the sub, then cross strapping to the mid/high inputs so they are opposite polarity from the sub. Then take an ARC reading to see what happens between 50-100 Hz.


----------



## pgiralt

Thanks again Bob and Tom. Your advice has been invaluable.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18526187
> 
> 
> Yes you can lower test level another 2dB to refine the level. I also think you can manually lower the cutoff for LF/RF a bit -- perhaps to 40Hz -- to use more of the energy they are producing down there.



I have made these adjustments in the latest graphs attached and it looks pretty good to me now.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18526187
> 
> 
> There is a problem with your sub. It doesn't look to me like a room response problem since it isn't showing in the other speakers.
> 
> 
> First check to make sure you have any internal crossover in the sub disabled. If you can't disable it, crank it up the highest possible frequency setting to get it out of the way as much as posible. It looks like it may be enabled and at a very low frequency right now -- perhaps 30Hz. Note that if you do find it was set that far off you will need to RE-adjust the volume level for the sub after you correct that because a lot of bass energy is being discarded.
> 
> 
> This is worth fixing (even though ARC has corrected the sub), as ARC is doing a lot of boosting to correct the sub, and that is part of what is limiting your ability to raise Max EQ Frequency.



Great catch by you and Tom. You're right - there was something wrong. When I was playing around with the levels manually to get things to 72 dB, I inadvertently toggled the crossover back on - but only on *one* of the subs. The crossover was still set to somewhere around 60 Hz, so that's why things drop off so dramatically at that point. The other sub had the crossover completely disabled. I turned the crossover back off on that sub and now things look the way they did the first time around. There's still a pretty steep drop off between 30 and 40 Hz, but it is considerably better than last time. Do you still see this as an issue? ARC is doing a fantastic job of correcting this.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18526187
> 
> 
> After you fix the sub problem, the next step is to tackle whatever is going on at the high frequencies. If you have custom grill cloth over the speakers then the cloth or mounting hardware may be interfering with output from the tweeters. Also check the speaker pointing, particularly the vertical pointing if the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height. LF/RF however should not point at center seating. A good rule of thumb is to swing them only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular to the screen towards the center seating position.



I'm at a bit of a loss on the high frequency issue. I don't have any grill covers at all on the LF/RF. The tweeters are at ear level and they are not pointing to the center seating position. I've played around with the front speaker positions quite a bit in the past and think I have a pretty good positioning of the speakers from this perspective. I placed the calibration mic right at ear level and basically horizontal from the tweeters. All I can think of is the same conclusion many others have come up with - that the microphone is inaccurate above 5k. In looking at the graphs, I'm getting a 10 dB drop according to ARC - I would think this would be pretty obviously noticeable if it was really off by that much, but maybe I'm wrong on that one.


I think I'll play with moving the max eq frequency up a bit and just listen to see what it sounds like, but I'm concerned that ARC is using bogus information to begin with at those frequencies.


Any suggestions on the room gain adjustment? I'm don't really understand what it does (I'm sure there's a post around here that explains it







) and the manual doesn't really explain it.


Thanks again for all the help.


-Paul


----------



## pgiralt

Can anyone recommend a small (preferably inexpensive) IR receiver to attach to the back of the D2V? I have the Harmony IR extender in the closet behind the D2V and I'd like to not have to run the IR emitter to the front of the unit. All I really want is to have the equivalent of the front-panel IR receiver but on the rear of the unit so I can tape the Harmony IR transmitter to it. I've seen some mention of Xantech in this thread, but the products there seem like overkill for what I'm trying to do.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

pgiralt,

I did not realize you had two subs.


My guess now is that your two subs are not matched in polarity and phase, thus you have phase cancellation going on between them.


See the post links in the Setup section in the first post of this thread for some discussion about how to get polarity and phase controls set correctly on more than one sub.

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pgiralt* /forum/post/18531423
> 
> 
> Can anyone recommend a small (preferably inexpensive) IR receiver to attach to the back of the D2V? I have the Harmony IR extender in the closet behind the D2V and I'd like to not have to run the IR emitter to the front of the unit. All I really want is to have the equivalent of the front-panel IR receiver but on the rear of the unit so I can tape the Harmony IR transmitter to it. I've seen some mention of Xantech in this thread, but the products there seem like overkill for what I'm trying to do.



I don't know much about this but I believe that you can can wire directly from the IR extender to the back of the D2v and eliminate the the IR receiver. The harmony thread(s) has some information on this.


----------



## Texas steve

Hot link pro from Microsmith they work fablous











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/18532172
> 
> 
> I don't know much about this but I believe that you can can wire directly from the IR extender to the back of the D2v and eliminate the the IR receiver. The harmony thread(s) has some information on this.


----------



## Kensmith48

Bob, Roger,

The towers have a high, mid, and low speaker connections with jumpers in between them. I have the speakers bi-wired using the high & mid (with no jumper) but with a jumper between the mid & low section. According to the manual I'm wired to the low side and as a result when the gain (bass boost) is used the level on the chart at the low end goes up and off the chart. Since I've tried all settings with the Level and EQ and arriving at approx. the same results maybe I should try wiring them to the High side and using the bass boost. I'm afraid I'll end up with the same results though.

Before I uploaded I thought about the seperate sub setting and came to the same conclusion and changed it back to 110. I also went back to the 5000 eq setting since I didn't see any difference on the charts between 5000 and 8000.

Thanks again for all the advice.

Ken


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18532309
> 
> 
> The towers have a high, mid, and low speaker connections with jumpers in between them. I have the speakers bi-wired using the high & mid (with no jumper) but with a jumper between the mid & low section. *According to the manual I'm wired to the low side* and as a result when the gain (bass boost) is used the level on the chart at the low end goes up and off the chart. Since I've tried all settings with the Level and EQ and arriving at approx. the same results *maybe I should try wiring them to the High side* and using the bass boost. I'm afraid I'll end up with the same results though.



Hi Ken,


I'm a little confused when you say low and high side. Are you talking about the different frequency terminals, or about the +/- polarities?


I could not find a manual on the BP2000 with info about the crossover points between the woofer and the rest. My understanding is the 15" woofer is driven by the internal amp, and the mid/high by your external amp. Right? Do they state the crossover freqs?


I wonder if part of the "notch" problem is that the woofer is monopole, while the mids are dipole, so there's this complicated merging of drivers of mixed polarities thru the crossover region. If someone has done some speaker response plots, like Stereophile, it might prove enlightening. Know of any?


----------



## slots1

I have the Harmony logitech model 890. i have the rf extender on the projector and another one in the cabinet for D2, directv, Oppo blue ray, etc. Works perfectly. Doors closed on cabinet, no pointing..


----------



## Kensmith48

Roger,

In the manual it says if I'm wired to the Hi and Mid terminals then I'm on the Low side because there's a jumper between the Mid and Low. I should also say that I'm not using the LFE rca connection. I think the only way to access the Hi side is with a single speaker cable but then there are jumpers between the hi and mid terminals and between the mid and low terminals, so I'm not sure what they are talking about.

These speakers are approx. 8 yrs. old so that's probably why you can't find the manual.


The manual states " There are no controls to vary the crossover points or phase because these have been factory set to provide perfect blending (a major performance benefit of this innovative product).


Ken


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18533141
> 
> 
> Roger,
> 
> In the manual it says if I'm wired to the Hi and Mid terminals then I'm on the Low side because there's a jumper between the Mid and Low. I should also say that I'm not using the LFE rca connection. I think the only way to access the Hi side is with a single speaker cable but then there are jumpers between the hi and mid terminals and between the mid and low terminals, so I'm not sure what they are talking about.
> 
> These speakers are approx. 8 yrs. old so that's probably why you can't find the manual.
> 
> 
> The manual states " There are no controls to vary the crossover points or phase because these have been factory set to provide perfect blending (a major performance benefit of this innovative product).
> 
> 
> Ken



You have bi-amped your speakers, but for the LFE channel you still need to use a sub, if not you are missing this channel. I suppose you have 7 channel amp or 5 channel amp but you connect to him only the fronts and eventually the center.

The crossover for HF and LF I suppose are internals, they are not adjustable like a dedicated sub.


----------



## Kensmith48

Mike,

I know I've only bi-wired and not bi-amped. If I would have bi-amped I would have doubled the watts and I haven't done that.

I'm not using the LFE but the amp inside the tower is still powered and giving me some bass. I have a 2 channel ATI amp for the fronts and a 5 channel ATI amp for the center & surrounds.They both put out 150 watts per channel.


Ken


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18532309
> 
> 
> Bob, Roger,
> 
> The towers have a high, mid, and low speaker connections with jumpers in between them. I have the speakers bi-wired using the high & mid (with no jumper) but with a jumper between the mid & low section. According to the manual I'm wired to the low side and as a result when the gain (bass boost) is used the level on the chart at the low end goes up and off the chart. Since I've tried all settings with the Level and EQ and arriving at approx. the same results maybe I should try wiring them to the High side and using the bass boost. I'm afraid I'll end up with the same results though.
> 
> Before I uploaded I thought about the seperate sub setting and came to the same conclusion and changed it back to 110. I also went back to the 5000 eq setting since I didn't see any difference on the charts between 5000 and 8000.
> 
> Thanks again for all the advice.
> 
> Ken



Why not just Bi wire the high and the mid and remove the jumper of the LOW terminal then use the LFE of the speaker fed by sub2 output from the D2? Set the bass boost to zero and use the level to adjust the summed output from your 2 front speaker subs and your dedicated sub. The 3 should sum up to 75 dB. Probably around 71dB per sub calibrated individually. You still have to adjust phase of your dedicated sub afterwards.


Your front speakers should have a smooth rolloff starting at 60 hertz perhaps with this configuration. I believe its worth a try and see the results with ARC. Furthermore, to shorten measurements with ARC, just use the 2 fronts and the sub as your speakers (uncheck the side and rear surrounds). If positive results are derived from this experiment , then a full ARC measure is in order.


Alvin


----------



## BillW

On the start page of the Anthem website as part of the different partial page views that role over it say Dolby Volume "now available with the latest software".

But it still shows 2.08 as the latest software and ARC 2.4. Both were last updated 4/5/10. Do these include the DV?


----------



## Kensmith48

ABC99,

Yeah I was thinking of doing exactly that. I have 2 seperate subs so I'll have to do it as described below. I think that's the only way of getting rid of that dip.

When I run just the fronts and sub with ARC do I still have to use 5 measurement positions?

According to the manual, Coax or an audio cable is plugged into each of the LFE IN's on each speaker tower, then using a splitter, one end goes into the FL/FR Pre-Outs on the D2, and the other end goes into the AMP-IN for the FL/FR. I was trying to avoid this since I have 2 seperate subs. I thought I could omit the LFE connection thinking the towers themselves would go down lower than 100hz to something in the neighborhood of 60hz as you stated, but I guess I'll have to do it the hard way.

I'll hook all of this up and report back. I hope this works, I'm running out of options.

Thanks for all the help.

Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/18536030
> 
> 
> On the start page of the Anthem website as part of the different partial page views that role over it say Dolby Volume "now available with the latest software".
> 
> But it still shows 2.08 as the latest software and ARC 2.4. Both were last updated 4/5/10. Do these include the DV?



They do not. DV is at this point still only available in the "test", Beta firmware on Anthem's password protected download page. The current "test" version is V2.08h.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18536633
> 
> 
> ABC99,
> 
> Yeah I was thinking of doing exactly that. I have 2 seperate subs so I'll have to do it as described below. I think that's the only way of getting rid of that dip.
> 
> When I run just the fronts and sub with ARC do I still have to use 5 measurement positions?
> 
> According to the manual, Coax or an audio cable is plugged into each of the LFE IN's on each speaker tower, then using a splitter, one end goes into the FL/FR Pre-Outs on the D2, and the other end goes into the AMP-IN for the FL/FR. I was trying to avoid this since I have 2 seperate subs. I thought I could omit the LFE connection thinking the towers themselves would go down lower than 100hz to something in the neighborhood of 60hz as you stated, but I guess I'll have to do it the hard way.
> 
> I'll hook all of this up and report back. I hope this works, I'm running out of options.
> 
> Thanks for all the help.
> 
> Ken



The minimum number of mic positions for an ARC run is 5, but you can speed things up when trying changes like this by just leaving the mic at position #1 for all 5 passes. The resulting ARC solution is not useful for listening, but when you find a candidate change which appears to fix the problem in the Measured values, then you just redo the ARC run using a normal 5 positions to see that the change still works, and then use that ARC result.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18531199
> 
> 
> What is your opinion about my charts. I drive the fronts with Rotel RMB-1080.
> 
> Thanks



ARC is being asked to do a LOT of correction in your setup.


First, your Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level is about 10dB too high. You want to get the basic volume level of the solution down closer to 75dB instead of the 87dB you are at now.


Second, double check your sub to make sure you have disabled its internal crossover or, if you can't do that, turned it up to the highest possible frequency setting to get it out of the way as much as possible. It looks like you might have a 70 or 80Hz crossover active in it right now. Note that a "THX" setting will likely force an 80Hz crossover, so don't use that.


The big dip at 50Hz for the sub looks like a room response and so you should be able to address that with some repositioning experiments. Keep in mind that even inches matter for sub positioning at these frequencies.


You have a problem in high mid-range and treble in LF. Contrast with the good result from RF. Play some stereo content with highs using Mono All audio mode and put your ear up close to each driver in LF and in RF for comparison and make sure all the drivers in LF are firing. Another simple test is to swap LF and RF. If the problem moves to the right side then the problem is in the speaker.


Center is 7dB down at 100Hz. I'm not sure why ARC thought a 70Hz cutoff/crossover would work for Center. This is enough drop off that I think you also have an output problem in Center -- this time for the bass. Make sure the woofer is firing for Center. If there are separate input jacks for bass on the Center speaker make sure they are wired properly. There may also be a bass port you need to open. Movie content often has a LOT of bass in Center -- that's the place the put it just in case the user doesn't have a subwoofer. So it is not uncommon to find folks with Center speakers with a blown woofer.


If you can't improve the bass output of Center you should probably not use the 70Hz cutoff ARC has now. I'd raise it to something more like 90Hz to help fix the residual error at 70Hz. I wouldn't go higher as that would steer the low frequency end of dialog to the subwoofer.


The big holes near 200Hz for LR/RR are also worrying. If these are in-wall or ceiling mounted perhaps the installation instructions weren't followed for padding material behind the speaker.


LS/RS are quite weak in bass, but that may just be their design. Your sub (as set now) just barely comes up high enough to support their needs. Again, check to see that the bass connection is correct for them.


It doesn't look to me like you have mic problems -- see RF for example.


Most of the residual errors (wobbles) in mid and low frequencies are due to resource limitations -- asking ARC to correct highs while it also has so much work to do for lows. If you can fix the Measured problems in the lows it will be easier for you to get smoother solutions with Max EQ Frequency raised.

--Bob


----------



## Max Spivak

I'm trying to connect my MacBookPro to the D2. I've got it physically connected via DVI-HDMI cable and Mini-Toslink optical. The source setup in the D2 is correct. Yet, when everything is on, Mac OS X doesn't see the second display, which in this case is the D2. (It works fine if the Mac is connected directly to the display, bypassing the D2.)


Any ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Apple's method of HDMI handshaking is not supported in D2 firmware V1.33.


That is supposed to be fixed in D2 "test" firmware V1.47f available from Anthem tech support.


But that firmware only works with later production runs of the D2.

--Bob


----------



## Max Spivak

Thanks Bob. I think I have an earlier-production D2.


Hmm... Any workarounds out there? Is that why MacMini users rely on component inputs?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Spivak* /forum/post/18538582
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I think I have an earlier-production D2.
> 
> 
> Hmm... Any workarounds out there? Is that why MacMini users rely on component inputs?



There's no workaround. Apple is using an unusual (but legal) method of doing the HDMI handshake and in the V1.33 firmware Anthem could not find a way to support that without breaking the handshake from typical cable/satellite set top boxes. So Anthem chose to not support the Apple output.


They figured out a solution in the D2v firmware and backported that to the D2 in "test" firmware V1.47f.


If your D2 has a red video board or does *NOT* have the big toroidal (donut-shaped) transformer in its power supply (both viewable through the top vents) then your D2 is OK for V1.47f.


If your D2 has a gray or green video board *AND* has the donut in the power supply then your D2 might still be OK for V1.47f, but there's no easy way for you to tell, so you shouldn't try it.

--Bob


----------



## MikeCornika

Hi Bob,

First of all thanks for your time and advices. I'll try to answer point by point:

- the mic i'm sure is ok, when I post those graph to Davoe one intent was to show him (both we have the same type of fronts) we have some problems with our respective rooms;

- the FR is near a corner of my room, but for the LF the things are a little different - is near the end of foyer (fireplace) and a back niche, on the right is the TV with this stand. I don't have to much room to move it, both fronts are toed inside aprox 15 deg.

- the drivers for LF are ok, no problems with, is for sure the room configuration. If this week i find some time I try to relocate a little the fronts and redo the ARC (anyway, before Ii have to borrow the SPL, but last friday I have received mine).

- the sub is setup correctly - the internal crossover is at max, but maybe the quality of my sub is not to high (Klipsch RW12). First I have calibrated his volume to match 75 dB, but when I have run the ARC it told me to rise a little the sub output, the ARC was not able to detect him. If you remember I told you the sweep tone for the sub was very slow (-10 dB) versus the others speakers. I think, in place to raise the volume maybe was better to leave ARC to raise the sweep tones.

- the next time when i'll run the ARC for sure I'll try to decrease the tone level with a couple of dB.

- the center is on top of my rack, to high, I have to make a support on top of the screen, attached to the wall and maybe toe the center to bottom a little, or maybe will be better to look for a floor stand to put him in front of the TV, I have to do a little research.

- I agree with your suggestion to raise the cutoff.

- the surrounds are Klipsch dipole, sure with weak bass, but not so bad. For movies we found them enough good.

- the rears are my formers fronts Klipsch RF3, they have a lot of bass and they are really in the corners of the room but not symmetrically, on one side is the stairs for the first level, nothing to do, but when we are watching BD movies the surrounds are terrific, very present (Avatar for example, I have to cut a little the volume, my grandchild start to shake a little, not really him, his mother).

Like you say I have to try another ARC.

I have a question, at the beginning the DVD movies was very good, for I don't know what reason, the sound now is weak, I have to increase the volume quite a bit, but this is happen only with DVD movies, for DVD music (another layer for the same player) the sound is ok.

Thanks again for your feedback.

PS. Ideal is to post our room pictures, but I have remarked very rare somebody show his setup on this thread.


----------



## SMabille_UK

Hi,


Just setup my AVM50v this weekend, here are my initial ARC results.

Obviously my target is about 2db too high, the difference between right and left are due to room design (part of an L shaped open space, so there is no wall on right side) but I'm puzzled by the 10k dip and 20k surge. I suspect it's a mic issue and could be ignored?


ARC 2.4, 2.08h, AVM50v European model.


I have a separate issue where setup editor not working correctly (seems like I'm not getting the current settings from the AVM even after using "save settings from unit" and "edit current settings". "Load settings from unit" is of course selected. I tried that BEFORE upgrade to 2.08h, so with 2.08 Nov09 release.


Thanks for any comment/question/help.


Thanks,

Stephane


----------



## SMabille_UK

Hi,


If there is any UK AVM50v/D2v owner with Sky, what are your recommendations for the video settings for SKY SD (not HD), I currently have Detail Enhancer to 0, Noise threshold to 3 (I think), Block 50, mosquito 35 to have a PQ barely acceptable, but things are getting very ugly on difficult compression artefacts (like London Marathon on BBC1 yesterday).


Bob (or others): What exactly does the Noise threshold and Motion threshold do?


Thanks,

Stephane


----------



## politby

This might not qualify as a "tweaking" question but the other threads seem pretty dead so I'll try here.


Tomorrow I will become the happy owner of an AVM50 that I am getting (very lightly) used. I will pair it with a PVA-7 amp, from the same seller.


I am trying to figure out if the ARC upgrade kit is user installable (or if Anthem will allow it). I understand it costs USD 399 which seems reasonable. However there is no dealer in my area (Sweden) - there is a distributor of sorts but they have not responded to my email.


So I would prefer to purchase it and do the upgrade myself, is that an option?


thanks


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18540303
> 
> 
> This might not qualify as a "tweaking" question but the other threads seem pretty dead so I'll try here.
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will become the happy owner of an AVM50 that I am getting (very lightly) used. I will pair it with a PVA-7 amp, from the same seller.
> 
> 
> I am trying to figure out if the ARC upgrade kit is user installable (or if Anthem will allow it). I understand it costs USD 399 which seems reasonable. However there is no dealer in my area (Sweden) - there is a distributor of sorts but they have not responded to my email.
> 
> 
> So I would prefer to purchase it and do the upgrade myself, is that an option?
> 
> 
> thanks




I can't answer the install questions but the price for ARC on and AVM50 is closer to $700 since the dsp board needs to be replaced. It's because of this hardware replacement that they might not want a user to install. The $399 price is for the ARC upgrade on the D2.


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Although I read most of the threads pertaining to the 2.08h firmware I cannot decide if I should upgrade or not. I am running the 2.08 version at the moment.

Any warnings? recommendations? or why I should not upgrade?


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18540423
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Although I read most of the threads pertaining to the 2.08h firmware I cannot decide if I should upgrade or not. I am running the 2.08 version at the moment.
> 
> Any warnings? recommendations? or why I should not upgrade?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I haven't noticed any problems with this test firmware. So far so good. They still have to work out the Dolby Vol. bugs but everything else seems fine for me. Others may not agree.

John


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18540683
> 
> 
> I haven't noticed any problems with this test firmware. So far so good. They still have to work out the Dolby Vol. bugs but everything else seems fine for me. Others may not agree.
> 
> John



Greetings,


I agree John. The only minor "bug" I have noticed is an intermittent issue where I get a very low volume upon start up. The fix is a power cycle which returns things to normal. I should mention that I occasionally experienced this with the previous version as well. It doesn't happen frequently enough to be bothersome but I thought I would mention it anyway.


Regards,


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/18540774
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I agree John. The only minor "bug" I have noticed is an intermittent issue where I get a very low volume upon start up. The fix is a power cycle which returns things to normal. I should mention that I occasionally experienced this with the previous version as well. It doesn't happen frequently enough to be bothersome but I thought I would mention it anyway.
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,

Hope they can duplicate this on their setup. I hate intermittent problems









John


----------



## pgiralt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18531482
> 
> 
> pgiralt,
> 
> I did not realize you had two subs.
> 
> 
> My guess now is that your two subs are not matched in polarity and phase, thus you have phase cancellation going on between them.
> 
> 
> See the post links in the Setup section in the first post of this thread for some discussion about how to get polarity and phase controls set correctly on more than one sub.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I was pretty sure I had matched the polarity/phase, but just to confirm I did a quick test and I think this confirms the issue is not related to the polarity/phase and is more likely just a positioning/room issue. Please let me know if you agree.


For the test I just put the mic in position 1 and ran the test with just FL/FR and Subwoofer. I ran three tests. The first with both subs, second with just the Left sub, and third with just the Right sub. I would expect to see a big difference between running with both as opposed to one of the subs if I had a phase/polarity issue between the two subs, correct? If you look at the attached graphs, you can see that the results are nearly identical. They don't match exactly with the results I got with 5 measurement positions before, but that is to be expected. In fact, it looks like some of the other mic positions suffer more from the room issues which is probably skewing the ARC results.


I'm going to play around with repositioning the subs and am thinking I might need to invest in some bass traps to try to smooth out the room response before ARC so ARC doesn't have to work so hard.


Let me know if you think I'm headed down the right road.


Thanks,

-Paul


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pgiralt* /forum/post/18542195
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I was pretty sure I had matched the polarity/phase, but just to confirm I did a quick test and I think this confirms the issue is not related to the polarity/phase and is more likely just a positioning/room issue. Please let me know if you agree.
> 
> 
> For the test I just put the mic in position 1 and ran the test with just FL/FR and Subwoofer. I ran three tests. The first with both subs, second with just the Left sub, and third with just the Right sub. I would expect to see a big difference between running with both as opposed to one of the subs if I had a phase/polarity issue between the two subs, correct? If you look at the attached graphs, you can see that the results are nearly identical. They don't match exactly with the results I got with 5 measurement positions before, but that is to be expected. In fact, it looks like some of the other mic positions suffer more from the room issues which is probably skewing the ARC results.
> 
> 
> I'm going to play around with repositioning the subs and am thinking I might need to invest in some bass traps to try to smooth out the room response before ARC so ARC doesn't have to work so hard.
> 
> 
> Let me know if you think I'm headed down the right road.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Paul



This was a good test and you have correctly interpreted the results.


It looks like you've got a pretty significant room cancellation null at 40Hz. In this test it shows up pretty clearly in LF and RF as well.


Positioning experiments should probably be your first approach to eliminating this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18540303
> 
> 
> This might not qualify as a "tweaking" question but the other threads seem pretty dead so I'll try here.
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I will become the happy owner of an AVM50 that I am getting (very lightly) used. I will pair it with a PVA-7 amp, from the same seller.
> 
> 
> I am trying to figure out if the ARC upgrade kit is user installable (or if Anthem will allow it). I understand it costs USD 399 which seems reasonable. However there is no dealer in my area (Sweden) - there is a distributor of sorts but they have not responded to my email.
> 
> 
> So I would prefer to purchase it and do the upgrade myself, is that an option?
> 
> 
> thanks



The ARC upgrade for the AVM 50 includes a replacement DSP (audio processing) board. The price in the US is more like $800. The lower price you found is for the ARC upgrade for the D2 which does not need a hardware change like this to run ARC. (Anthem recently raised their prices, so I don't know if this price still holds.)


The process of doing the install is not hard. Typically a dealer would do it for you. The instructions come with the replacement board.


However any time you open the chassis there is the risk that you can zap the electronics with static electricity if you don't know how to take precautions. Typical precautions are to use a properly grounded static protection mat and wrist strap.


One point of confusion is that after you put in the new board you must re-install the firmware so that the new board gets properly initialized.


I don't know what arrangements Anthem might make for someone in your situation. Typically overseas support items are handled by Anthem's distributor for your country. If you have not been able to reach them, contact Anthem tech support directly and see if they can move things along for you. And at the same time you can talk to them directly about doing this change yourself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18540423
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Although I read most of the threads pertaining to the 2.08h firmware I cannot decide if I should upgrade or not. I am running the 2.08 version at the moment.
> 
> Any warnings? recommendations? or why I should not upgrade?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I think the install of V2.08h is a good idea, however after the install you should go into Setup > Source Setup for each of your Sources and turn Dolby Volume OFF as it will be set to Movie by default as part of the install. You can play with Dolby Volume later if you want. But to begin, turn it OFF for all Sources to avoid confusing yourself. With Dolby Volume OFF for any Source, the other Dolby Volume settings in Setup are ignored for that Source so you can leave them as is for now.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SMabille_UK* /forum/post/18540137
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> If there is any UK AVM50v/D2v owner with Sky, what are your recommendations for the video settings for SKY SD (not HD), I currently have Detail Enhancer to 0, Noise threshold to 3 (I think), Block 50, mosquito 35 to have a PQ barely acceptable, but things are getting very ugly on difficult compression artefacts (like London Marathon on BBC1 yesterday).
> 
> 
> Bob (or others): What exactly does the Noise threshold and Motion threshold do?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Stephane



First you need to understand that once damage has been done to the video it can not be reversed. All you can do is make it less visible by blurring things.


If the SD channels from Sky are showing severe macro blocking, posterization, and other artifacts of bit starvation and over compression then that's sad, and you may need to crank up Noise Reduction to make things tolerable, but you will definitely notice the results of that as a blurring of the image even in scenes with little noise.


And the resolution is so low in SD broadcasts that just about any damage will be noticed. That's why SD-DVDs played in a good player, properly set up, look so much better than broadcast TV even though the resolution is the same. Less image damage BEFORE the video gets into your system.


All in all the best approach is to watch a different channel.


Noise can be small scale (mosquito noise) or large scale (macro blocks) and the two noise reduction algorithms target them differently -- i.e., with different types of blurring. You should consider leaving Noise Reduction turned all the way down (off) and just living with the noise on bad channels. Oh, and complain bitterly to Sky.


Detail Enhancement builds contrasty halos around edges which tricks the eye into seeing "false detail". Again, it is best to leave it off. Some folks have had good luck using some Detail Enhancement to counter the blurring of using Noise Reduction.


As you can imagine, if you turn on Detail Enhancement while you have noise, the DE will make the noise more visible. Not a good thing. The Noise Threshold limits what will be considered an edge worthy of "enhancement". The default setting is likely best.


The Motion Threshold has to do with how de-interlacing is done when the Anthem is fed an interlaced SD or HD video stream. There are different algorithms that are used according to how much motion is present in the scene and the Motion Threshold lets you change the transition point between them. Again, most of the time you should just leave this at the default setting.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SMabille_UK* /forum/post/18540128
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Just setup my AVM50v this weekend, here are my initial ARC results.
> 
> Obviously my target is about 2db too high, the difference between right and left are due to room design (part of an L shaped open space, so there is no wall on right side) but I'm puzzled by the 10k dip and 20k surge. I suspect it's a mic issue and could be ignored?
> 
> 
> ARC 2.4, 2.08h, AVM50v European model.
> 
> 
> I have a separate issue where setup editor not working correctly (seems like I'm not getting the current settings from the AVM even after using "save settings from unit" and "edit current settings". "Load settings from unit" is of course selected. I tried that BEFORE upgrade to 2.08h, so with 2.08 Nov09 release.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any comment/question/help.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Stephane



Setup Editor is not used that much, particularly now that there is the Settings Backup utility. I think you should email Anthem tech support with the details of what happened and see if they can reproduce the problem.


By the way, I don't believe the current version of Setup Editor is compatible with "test" V2.08h due to the menu changes made for Dolby Volume.


On your ARC results, it looks like you may have an 80Hz crossover still active in your subwoofer. Disable the crossover entirely or crank it up to the highest possible frequency. At the low end, your sub is showing as good down to 25Hz, which is not bad. But you may be able to get a little lower extension by moving the sub closer to a wall/corner to get more Boundary Gain down there. Also, if the sub has a subsonic filter (suppresses the lowest frequencies) turn that off. Sometimes this will masquerade as a setting which corrects for the sub being too close to a wall. Lie and tell it the sub is NOT too close to a wall.


For Center, I think you may have a problem with either the mid-range or the tweeter. Make sure Center is wired correctly (all inputs connected). Play some stereo content, use Mono All audio mode and put your ear up close to each driver in Center to make sure it is firing.


For LS/RS, I think the residual errors in bass for LS may respond well to tweaking the "cutoff" Target for them a little bit up or down to better match the energy LS is producing without doing damage to what you get in RS. You can experiment with this without having to re-Measure.


You could probably lower the "cutoff" for LF/RF a tad as well, although ARC has produced good results where it is now.


Ignoring the mid-range problem for Center, the dip and spike you noted in the high frequencies looks like a mic problem to me. I could imagine things that might produce this sort of response in all the speakers -- the wrong choice of grill cloth and cloth mounting for example. But I think after you fix the simpler problems above you should send your ARC results file to Anthem and ask them if this means you have an ARC mic which is faulty above 5KHz.


Also consider how you took your Measurements. The ARC mic must be pointed straight up at each mic position. The mic tip should be at seated ear height but not adjacent to a reflective or blocking surface like a seat back or wall. Raise the mic tip a few inches to clear a seat back or move it about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from the seat back.


All speakers are directional at high frequency, and the nature of the directionality changes dramatically within the high frequencies. Thus the first thing to consider is the pointing of your speakers, and in particular their vertical pointing if they are not mounted at seated ear height. LF and RF should not be pointed directly at center seating. A good rule of thumb is to swing them only 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular to the screen towards center seating.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18539505
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> . . . .
> 
> I have a question, at the beginning the DVD movies was very good, for I don't know what reason, the sound now is weak, I have to increase the volume quite a bit, but this is happen only with DVD movies, for DVD music (another layer for the same player) the sound is ok.



If you are using the "test" V2.08h firmware, make sure you have Dolby Volume OFF in Setup > Source Setup for the player. Also that you have Room EQ ON.


Re-Upload your ARC solution just in case you accidentally altered some of the Setup settings it Uploaded.


Now make sure you don't have any of the "temporary" volume adjustments in effect, perhaps by accident. Do this as follows. Go into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue using the front panel display.

3) Reload Saved User Settings


The "temporary" settings (Manual section 4.6) are not saved, so this resets all of them to default for all Sources.


Now try your DVD player again.

--Bob


----------



## gdc

I just received my Oppo BDP-80 and set it up. I know a number of D2/D2v owners have the Oppo players so hopefully someone can shed light on this.


I used the Source Direct setting so I could get 1080p from BluRay and 480i from standard DVD (via HDMI). With BluRay and 1080p the colors are fine. However, with 480i blues turn to red and vice versa. Any ideas on where I might look to correct this?


I thought it was a color space setting in the D2, so I tried all permutations without success. I finally had to force Oppo output to 1080p to watch a DVD.


Any ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/18544376
> 
> 
> I just received my Oppo BDP-80 and set it up. I know a number of D2/D2v owners have the Oppo players so hopefully someone can shed light on this.
> 
> 
> I used the Source Direct setting so I could get 1080p from BluRay and 480i from standard DVD (via HDMI). With BluRay and 1080p the colors are fine. However, with 480i blues turn to red and vice versa. Any ideas on where I might look to correct this?
> 
> 
> I thought it was a color space setting in the D2, so I tried all permutations without success. I finally had to force Oppo output to 1080p to watch a DVD.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



Give Oppo tech support a call. That's a handshake failure in the 80. They may have you re-install the firmware in the 80 or it may need warranty service.


It is possible that adjusting the output settings in the 80 may provide a workaround.


Use an explicit output format (YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of Auto for example.


Another possible workaround is to force a new handshake -- i.e., switch the D2 briefly to a different Source and back.

--Bob


----------



## MikeCornika

Thanks Bob,


Only one point, after a factory default reload, you have to do User settings reload and ARC settings reload, or rerun a new arc. When I have done only User settings reload the trims/cutoff was not there, after ARC file reload everythings go back.

The sound is back for the DVD player, I have put SW 1, is ok. I think I start to get use with the sound of BD, and for this I start to have a lot of trouble with the DVD sound.

When you watch DVD or BD concerts what sourround format are you using or recomanding?

Thanks again for your help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18544751
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> Only one point, after a factory default reload, you have to do User settings reload and ARC settings reload, or rerun a new arc. When I have done only User settings reload the trims/cutoff was not there, after ARC file reload everythings go back.
> 
> The sound is back for the DVD player, I have put SW 1, is ok. I think I start to get use with the sound of BD, and for this I start to have a lot of trouble with the DVD sound.
> 
> When you watch DVD or BD concerts what sourround format are you using or recomanding?
> 
> Thanks again for your help.



An ARC Upload makes two types of changes. First it modifies a variety of Setup menu settings (Speaker Configuration and Level Calibration primarily). Second it installs a set of Room Correction parameters in a hidden memory you can not view.


Now the Room Correction parameters are pretty hard to screw up. They will survive a Reload Factory Defaults. They are even supposed to survive a new firmware install. In fact the only way you can get rid of them is to do an Erase from the ARC application (or Upload a different set of ARC results of course).


But the Setup menu settings ARC installs can easily be modified -- thus screwing up the ARC solution.


So the first thing you should do after finishing an ARC Upload (and taking a quick look around Setup to see that all went well) is to Save User and/or Installer Settings. This makes sure that you can't accidentally mess up ARC's Uploaded settings by Reloading from either of those memories.


Then if you do accidentally (or on purpose) alter a setting that ARC Uploaded into Setup, you can fix things by Reloading from Saved User or Installer Settings. In addition, you can Reload Saved User or Installer Settings after a Reload Factory Defaults to restore the ARC settings. You might do this after a firmware install for example, or when eliminating the "temporary" volume trim settings as I described above.


And of course you also have the fallback of just redoing the ARC Upload. I.e., open your latest ARC results file in ARC's "Advanced" mode and just do the Upload -- no need to re-Measure or re-Calculate.


And when you finish that, then Save User and Installer Settings to capture those Setup menu settings ARC has installed.


--------------------------------------------------


Audio Modes are a matter of personal preference. There is no "right" answer. Here are my preferences:


1) With ARC in use I find I do NOT want to use THX post processing with any of the Audio Modes. Note that there is a special piece of THX post processing which is separately adjustable -- THX Re-equalization. For most movies broadcast on TV or found on disc the audio has already been re-equalized for home theater and so you should leave the THX Re-equalization off (whether or not you are using the rest of the THX stuff). But some times you will run into a movie which sounds a bit brassy or brittle in the treble and that is a sign it has NOT been re-equalized. I.e., the treble boost built into the audio for use in movie theaters hasn't been backed out. And so you can turn on THX Re-equalization to fix that -- press the THX button twice and use Up/Down arrow to toggle it.


2) For movies I use PLIIx-Movie to raise a lesser number of movie audio channels to a greater number of speakers. Note that if you are playing a 5.1 track and have 5.1 speakers or a 7.1 track and have 7.1 speakers there's no work for an audio surround mode to do, so it won't be offered.


3) For normal TV stereo programs I use Anthem Logic - Cinema to raise that to more speakers.


4) For stereo music content I normally use Stereo mode (i.e., just LF/RF/Sub). But sometimes I use PLIIx-Music to get surround sound. Note that I have set up a separate Music configuration in ARC which excludes my Center speaker. (For multi-channel music content as from SACD discs I use my ARC Movie configuration which includes all the speakers.)


Note that the Audio Modes offered at any point in time will vary depending on the type of input, how many speakers you have, and whether THX post processing is currently turned on. For example, Mono-Academy mode is not available when THX is on.


Mono Academy mode is a useful special case. Mono movie tracks made roughly in the 1950s and earlier had a particularly aggressive treble boost built in to account for the fact that the theater speaker was behind the rather thick screens used then -- as well as to handle the normal theater problem of needing to boost treble due to the size of the audience.


Failure to re-equalize, i.e., remove, the Academy equalization is why older movies have that brassy, hissy, olde-timey sound. Many older movies on TV and on disc are re-equalized for home use already, but some aren't. In fact that is rather more likely than with the much less aggressive, modern treble boost that THX re-equalization removes.


So if you are playing an older, mono movie and it sounds brassy and hissy like that, try using Mono Academy as your Audio Mode. I think you'll be amazed at just how good some of these older movie tracks sound when handled correctly like this. However you won't get "surround" audio from the mono movie if you do this.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Although I've had a D2 for a while and now a D2v, I have only learned lately a few important stuff about ARC, and this thanks to you guys.

For example, to limit the correction to 5Khz or a little more, and not to push it up to the limit.

Another example, an obvious one though, would be to move speakers around a bit in order to find their best sounding position and to ease up on ARC in the corrections it does.

Well, in relation to the last example, if we have to try all that is in our power to ease up on ARC and allow it to do a better job on the remaining problems, then what are your thoughts about using another room correction on top of ARC just for the sub?

Let me explain. I have a Velodyne DD-18 and ever since I got my D2 I disabled its room correction. This is still true while I have a D2v.

I thought that ARC would do a better job.

But I have this acute room mod at 20Hz that ARC has to deal with and I thought that might be a good idea to have Velodyne deal with it first and than ARC.

Of course I can try that, but at those frequencies I might not hear the differences.

What do you think?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's worth a try. The DD-18 also has a subsonic filter that may help as it is specifically targeted at those low frequencies. Repositioning or bass traps would be another approach.


While you are in there, check the crossover in the DD 18 as this chart looks like it is still enabled.

--Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck

I'm sure the answer is here somewhere in this 900+ page post. Hopefully one of the regulars can save me the trouble of trying to weed through everything and have an answer handy.


I have an AVM50 that has already been upgraded once for ARC. Is it possible to get another hardware upgrade to bring my unit up to speed with the AVM50v? If so, cost?


Thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/18558052
> 
> 
> I'm sure the answer is here somewhere in this 900+ page post. Hopefully one of the regulars can save me the trouble of trying to weed through everything and have an answer handy.
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50 that has already been upgraded once for ARC. Is it possible to get another hardware upgrade to bring my unit up to speed with the AVM50v? If so, cost?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



That info was posted not very long ago - look for it - it is nearby.


----------



## KCWolfPck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18558107
> 
> 
> That info was posted not very long ago - look for it - it is nearby.



Found this info:


"Bob,

D2/ARC to D2v....$4899

D2 to D2v....$5299

D1/ARC to D2v...$5699

D1 to D2v...$5899


tjg"


However, that does not apply for me. A similar chart for the trade-ins to AVM50v is what I would be looking for.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/18558342
> 
> 
> Found this info:
> 
> 
> "Bob,
> 
> D2/ARC to D2v....$4899
> 
> D2 to D2v....$5299
> 
> D1/ARC to D2v...$5699
> 
> D1 to D2v...$5899
> 
> 
> tjg"
> 
> 
> However, that does not apply for me. A similar chart for the trade-ins to AVM50v is what I would be looking for.



The prices are in this forum but since there was a price increase very recently they wll not by of much value. The list above was after the price increase for the D2 > D2v.


I suggest you send an email off to Anthem tech support to get your answer.


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KCWolfPck* /forum/post/18558052
> 
> 
> I'm sure the answer is here somewhere in this 900+ page post. Hopefully one of the regulars can save me the trouble of trying to weed through everything and have an answer handy.
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50 that has already been upgraded once for ARC. Is it possible to get another hardware upgrade to bring my unit up to speed with the AVM50v? If so, cost?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I got the prices from Anthem yesterday for the upgrade from AVM50 to AVM50v:


$4,299USD

$4,729CDN


I got the impression this was regardless of whether it has ARC or not, but I am not 100% sure. When I asked I said my unit does not have ARC.


That is a significant chunk of cash. As the MSRP of the 50V is $5,499 the value of the traded in unit is $1,200. I believe its original MSRP was $4,700 so Anthem pays only about 25% of its original value.


And in my case, add 40-50% to those prices since I have to get it via the (there's only one) Swedish reseller who deals through Anthem's distributor in Denmark. Fuggedaboudit.










That's not a world class trade in program by any means.










I'm going to do the ARC upgrade and leave it at that ($799). I am quite happy with 4/1 HDMI ports. 2 outputs would be good to have so I could ditch my HDMI splitter but I only have 2 HDMI devices - my HTPC and an STB.


I am also quite happy with 5.1 LPCM for the HD audio tracks as provided by the HTPC.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18559068
> 
> 
> I got the prices from Anthem yesterday for the upgrade from AVM50 to AVM50v:
> 
> 
> $4,299USD
> 
> $4,729CDN
> 
> 
> I got the impression this was regardless of whether it has ARC or not, but I am not 100% sure. When I asked I said my unit does not have ARC.
> 
> 
> That is a significant chunk of cash. As the MSRP of the 50V is $5,499 the value of the traded in unit is $1,200. I believe its original MSRP was $4,700 so Anthem pays only about 25% of its original value.
> 
> 
> And in my case, add 40-50% to those prices since I have to get it via the (there's only one) Swedish reseller who deals through Anthem's distributor in Denmark. Fuggedaboudit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's not a world class trade in program by any means.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to do the ARC upgrade and leave it at that ($799). I am quite happy with 4/1 HDMI ports. 2 outputs would be good to have so I could ditch my HDMI splitter but I only have 2 HDMI devices - my HTPC and an STB.
> 
> 
> I am also quite happy with 5.1 LPCM for the HD audio tracks as provided by the HTPC.



That doesn't sound right as a prior post said that the CDN price was the same as US which makes sense since the CDN dollar is running at par now anyway. There usually is a difference if you already have ARC or not.


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I just upgraded my D2v from 2.08 to 2.08h and decided to run an ARC measurement. I always set my speaker level to 85dB and this time I thought of following your recommendations and move back to 75dB.

But after i ran ARC I noticed that the level measured were still around 85dB.

What did I do wrong?


----------



## hoehne

I upgraded to the Anthem D2V a few months back, but there is one feature I haven't been able to figure out how to configure the D2V to do it. My previous preamp, Proceed AVP, had two 12 VDC trigger ports that I could use to enable a projection screen and in my case turn on back lights behind my plasma. These trigger ports could be controlled indepently from any other feature and therefore I could turn my backlights on just when I wanted to watch a movie at night.


So far it seems that the trigger ports on the the Anthem must be tied to another operation such as switching sources. Is there a way to independently control the trigger ports so I can switch on my backlight when I want when I watch a movie, DVR, etc? I don't want to have the feature tied to a given mode like bluray or another input.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18567568
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I just upgraded my D2v from 2.08 to 2.08h and decided to run an ARC measurement. I always set my speaker level to 85dB and this time I thought of following your recommendations and move back to 75dB.
> 
> But after i ran ARC I noticed that the level measured were still around 85dB.
> 
> What did I do wrong?



the bug in ARC occurs when the level *IS* set to 75 db. So when you set your levels, set them to 75 db.,then lower the test level number by 6 db. Now do your measurment and the final levels should be around 75. Hope this was clear enough.

John


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18569506
> 
> 
> the bug in ARC occurs when the level *IS* set to 75 db. So when you set your levels, set them to 75 db.,then lower the test level number by 6 db. Now do your measurment and the final levels should be around 75. Hope this was clear enough.
> 
> John



Impressive! This forum amazes me every time anew.

Thank you.

Was that bug quoted here earlier? I probably missed that.

Is that a bug in ARC or in the 2.08h firmware?


----------



## Milt99

I'm thinking of adding 2 more sub woofers to my system.

I currently have 2, placed in opposite corners on my stage.

Is ARC sufficient for handling all sub woofer EQ etc., or is there something else that would\\could help.

Thanks


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/18569885
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of adding 2 more sub woofers to my system.
> 
> I currently have 2, placed in opposite corners on my stage.
> 
> Is ARC sufficient for handling all sub woofer EQ etc., or is there something else that would\\could help.
> 
> Thanks



ARC will treat them as one sub woofer. You need to have them all volume balanced and phase set then run ARC. This doesn't sound exactly like you want. ARC measures from at least 5 positions in the room and goes through some formula to come up with the best solution.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18569564
> 
> 
> Impressive! This forum amazes me every time anew.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Was that bug quoted here earlier? I probably missed that.
> 
> Is that a bug in ARC or in the 2.08h firmware?



It's a bug in ARC. It has been mentioned many times but don't worry, sometimes it's hard to wade through all the posts.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/18569885
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of adding 2 more sub woofers to my system.
> 
> I currently have 2, placed in opposite corners on my stage.
> 
> Is ARC sufficient for handling all sub woofer EQ etc., or is there something else that would\\could help.
> 
> Thanks



If the subs have PBK from Paradigm, then run PBK first and then ARC.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/18569885
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of adding 2 more sub woofers to my system.
> 
> I currently have 2, placed in opposite corners on my stage.
> 
> Is ARC sufficient for handling all sub woofer EQ etc., or is there something else that would\\could help.
> 
> Thanks



As mentioned above, ARC will treat your set of subwoofers as a single subwoofer. It hears all of them playing the same signal at the same time.


That means you need to volume balance and polarity/phase match the subwoofers using some separate control -- often on each sub, but sometimes an additional box between the Anthem and the subs.


There are 4 sub outputs on the Anthem (2 RCA and 2 XLR if you are not using the option to use the extra for Zone 2). All 4 play the same signal but there is a standard 6dB volume difference between the XLR and RCA outputs that you'll need to deal with using the volume on the sub itself (if it doesn't already, automatically do that for XLR input). Since all 4 outputs carry the same signal, the sub volume trim, polarity, phase, crossover etc. in the Anthem will affect all 4 the same way. Again, if you have the subs volume balanced and phase matched using their own controls this is fine.


There is also only one distance setting for the sub output. Use the average distance for your subs and ADJUST THEIR INDIVIDUAL, BUILT-IN POLARITY/PHASE *AFTER* setting this distance. Note that a properly set up sub is not localizable -- the bass appears to come from everywhere. So it really does not matter that the distance is not exact for each sub since there is no audio source imaging going on between the sub and any of the main speakers. But phase is a function of distance, so the phase adjustment for each sub needs to be made after you pick the distance.


Volume from the subs adds (logarithmically actually). That means when setting the individual sub volumes you want to set them to produce equal SPL, but below your target. For example, with two subs, you would typically set each to produce 72dB SPL to produce 75dB SPL when played together. With 4 subs the setting level would be around 69 dB for each as I recall. Now the way this works is dependent on the relative placement of the subs in the room, but a simple setting choice like this is "close enough" as ARC will adjust the volume trim for the combo for you. The most important thing is that they are set to produce equal SPL, regardless of which setting level you pick.


The typical process for setting phase is to power one sub at a time and then phase match it to the LF speaker. When each sub is in phase with LF then they are also in phase with each other.


Polarity affects the entire range of bass frequencies -- just like reversing the polarity of the feed wires to the sub. Phase operates only near the crossover frequencies since it is too expensive to make an adjustable Phase control that works correctly over the entire bass range. That means that flipping Polarity and swinging Phase around 180 degrees is *NOT* the same thing. So find the best Phase for EACH Polarity setting and then pick the Polarity/Phase combo that appears to be working best. As a rule of thumb, "normal" Polarity is used for subs in the front of the room and "inverted" Polarity is used for subs in the rear of the room. Phase is not that finicky a setting. You'll find a fairly large range of settings that work pretty much just as well. But getting Polarity wrong will impact bass as the subs that are mismatched will cancel each other over the entire bass frequency range. So play around a bit until you get the smoothest Measured bass in ARC from your combo of subs. Note that if you move the subs while experimenting with the setup, you should recheck their volume and phase settings.


All of the above is for subs directly connected to the Anthem and NOT connected to any main speaker. If you are using "satellite" subs -- i.e., what are really powered woofers for a main speaker rather than a standalone sub -- things get a lot more complicated.

--Bob


----------



## Massimo N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18571845
> 
> 
> It's a bug in ARC. It has been mentioned many times but don't worry, sometimes it's hard to wade through all the posts.
> 
> John



I was having trouble setting my levels to 75dB as well. Can you confirm I have the write steps?


1. Set LF and Sub speaker trim to "0"

2. Reduce Test Level so SPL meter reads 75dB

3. Set Sub master volume to 75dB

4. Reduce Test Level by additional 6dB


Do I have this right now?


I apologize if this was already covered, but I missed the last step (reduce test level by additional 6dB). I was following one of the original instructions from the first page link (I think 2nd link in ARC section). I was trying to re-do ARC last week on my AVM50v and this was driving me bonkers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/18568468
> 
> 
> I upgraded to the Anthem D2V a few months back, but there is one feature I haven't been able to figure out how to configure the D2V to do it. My previous preamp, Proceed AVP, had two 12 VDC trigger ports that I could use to enable a projection screen and in my case turn on back lights behind my plasma. These trigger ports could be controlled indepently from any other feature and therefore I could turn my backlights on just when I wanted to watch a movie at night.
> 
> 
> So far it seems that the trigger ports on the the Anthem must be tied to another operation such as switching sources. Is there a way to independently control the trigger ports so I can switch on my backlight when I want when I watch a movie, DVR, etc? I don't want to have the feature tied to a given mode like bluray or another input.



There is no way to set a D2v trigger to function independently like that, nor is there a way to change a trigger's current on/off state with the infrared remote independent of Source selection or Path power on/off.


However you might want to check the RS-232 control commands as they are WAY more extensive than what the infrared remote can do. This particular thing is not something I've looked into however. You'll find the RS-232 commands defined in an XLS file in the ARC V2.4 install kit (on your ARC CD or downloadable from the Anthem site).


Failing that you will likely discover that there are remotely controllable triggers sold for the custom installation market -- i.e., a 12 volt trigger that is independent of the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Massimo N* /forum/post/18572204
> 
> 
> I was having trouble setting my levels to 75dB as well. Can you confirm I have the write steps?
> 
> 
> 1. Set LF and Sub speaker trim to "0"
> 
> 2. Reduce Test Level so SPL meter reads 75dB
> 
> 3. Set Sub master volume to 75dB
> 
> 4. Reduce Test Level by additional 6dB
> 
> 
> Do I have this right now?
> 
> 
> I apologize if this was already covered, but I missed the last step (reduce test level by additional 6dB). I was following one of the original instructions from the first page link (I think 2nd link in ARC section). I was trying to re-do ARC last week on my AVM50v and this was driving me bonkers.



That's correct. Typically I'll tell people to zero out ALL the volume trims in step 1 just because that's less confusing, but really only the LF and Sub trims (both Movie AND Music sub) are the ones that matter when doing this.


Note that for reasons that are not yet understood, some folks are not seeing this 6dB high problem in their ARC results. It's no big deal to go back in and fiddle with Test Level to refine things and then redo your ARC Measurement if you need to.

--Bob


----------



## nitro110

Sorry if this has been answered before, I read and searched thread but didn't find any information that related to my problem with my xbox 360 and avm50


I have been running my anthem avm-50 to my panasonic 720p dlp. I had my 360 set to 720p and anthem set to 720p output and everything worked fine. It is connected via component.


I recently bought a new Mits DLP the 73737 so I upped the output of the anthem to 1080p. Every device I have is working fine, cable box, ps3, hd-dvd, etc... When I set my xbox to output 1080i or 1080p the screen goes blue. I am assuming the problem is with the anthem not accepting the signal but I can not figure out why or a reason at the very least the 1080i ouput should not work in this setup.


Any ideas? Am I missing some technical reason the anthem will not accept the 1080i/p outuput from the 360 via component?


Thanks


----------



## Massimo N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18572223
> 
> 
> That's correct. Typically I'll tell people to zero out ALL the volume trims in step 1 just because that's less confusing, but really only the LF and Sub trims (both Movie AND Music sub) are the ones that matter when doing this.
> 
> 
> Note that for reasons that are not yet understood, some folks are not seeing this 6dB high problem in their ARC results. It's no big deal to go back in and fiddle with Test Level to refine things and then redo your ARC Measurement if you need to.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob.


----------



## SMabille_UK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18542619
> 
> 
> Setup Editor is not used that much, particularly now that there is the Settings Backup utility. I think you should email Anthem tech support with the details of what happened and see if they can reproduce the problem.
> 
> 
> By the way, I don't believe the current version of Setup Editor is compatible with "test" V2.08h due to the menu changes made for Dolby Volume.
> 
> 
> On your ARC results, it looks like you may have an 80Hz crossover still active in your subwoofer. Disable the crossover entirely or crank it up to the highest possible frequency. At the low end, your sub is showing as good down to 25Hz, which is not bad. But you may be able to get a little lower extension by moving the sub closer to a wall/corner to get more Boundary Gain down there. Also, if the sub has a subsonic filter (suppresses the lowest frequencies) turn that off. Sometimes this will masquerade as a setting which corrects for the sub being too close to a wall. Lie and tell it the sub is NOT too close to a wall.
> 
> 
> For Center, I think you may have a problem with either the mid-range or the tweeter. Make sure Center is wired correctly (all inputs connected). Play some stereo content, use Mono All audio mode and put your ear up close to each driver in Center to make sure it is firing.
> 
> 
> For LS/RS, I think the residual errors in bass for LS may respond well to tweaking the "cutoff" Target for them a little bit up or down to better match the energy LS is producing without doing damage to what you get in RS. You can experiment with this without having to re-Measure.
> 
> 
> You could probably lower the "cutoff" for LF/RF a tad as well, although ARC has produced good results where it is now.
> 
> 
> Ignoring the mid-range problem for Center, the dip and spike you noted in the high frequencies looks like a mic problem to me. I could imagine things that might produce this sort of response in all the speakers -- the wrong choice of grill cloth and cloth mounting for example. But I think after you fix the simpler problems above you should send your ARC results file to Anthem and ask them if this means you have an ARC mic which is faulty above 5KHz.
> 
> 
> Also consider how you took your Measurements. The ARC mic must be pointed straight up at each mic position. The mic tip should be at seated ear height but not adjacent to a reflective or blocking surface like a seat back or wall. Raise the mic tip a few inches to clear a seat back or move it about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from the seat back.
> 
> 
> All speakers are directional at high frequency, and the nature of the directionality changes dramatically within the high frequencies. Thus the first thing to consider is the pointing of your speakers, and in particular their vertical pointing if they are not mounted at seated ear height. LF and RF should not be pointed directly at center seating. A good rule of thumb is to swing them only 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular to the screen towards center seating.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


Thanks for your detailed reply.


1) I (nearly) fixed the centre speaker issue, it's a location/orientation issue, it was temporarily on the floor, it gets better, still not perfect but at least I don't think there is a technical problem there.


2) The grill cloth/mounting is different for LF/RF, Central on one side and LS/RS on the other. I contacted Anthem support but Andrew came back with the following reply, which I don't fully understand/agree with:



> Quote:
> "At that frequency it could be mostly reflections from the walls and not even the speakers themselves.
> 
> Could be that the way the room reflects the sound and the way the MIC picks up the sound.
> 
> Just like when you have a Subwoofer with standing waves.
> 
> Certain parts of the room with have a higher SPL output than others.
> 
> If there were something wrong with the reading and measurements ARC would have given you an error while it was running.
> 
> Anything 10db and over that is measured and calculated would have given you an error."



Andrew also recommended to push correction to 10Khz, but having done that the sound is unnatural (harpsichord "pinch", drum rake (not sure how you say it in English - the metal brush used on drum) both far too present on classical/jazz, "nasal" sound on pop/rock).

At first, I wasn't sure if it was me being used to the lack of 10Khz but I had a friend coming to listen to the Anthem and without asking/let him know he pointed out the same problem.


I have attached the latest measurements (after moving central) and have exactly the same drop at 10Khz.


Thanks,

Stephane


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A couple quick notes on firmware:


Nick tells me they are up to V2.08m internally for the D2v, and still have a few more fixes they want to include before replacing the current, V2.08h Beta firmware. I gather they've made good progress with Dolby Volume.


Some of the changes include additional HDMI improvements, and they want to validate those on the D2v and then port them to the D2 code stream before making the V1.47x firmware "official" for the D2.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18585501
> 
> 
> A couple quick notes on firmware:
> 
> 
> Nick tells me they are up to V2.08m internally for the D2v, and still have a few more fixes they want to include before replacing the current, V2.08h Beta firmware. I gather they've made good progress with Dolby Volume.
> 
> 
> Some of the changes include additional HDMI improvements, and they want to validate those on the D2v and then port them to the D2 code stream before making the V1.47x firmware "official" for the D2.
> 
> --Bob





Here is looking forward to a better handshake.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18585501
> 
> 
> A couple quick notes on firmware:
> 
> 
> Nick tells me they are up to V2.08m internally for the D2v, and still have a few more fixes they want to include before replacing the current, V2.08h Beta firmware. I gather they've made good progress with Dolby Volume.
> 
> 
> Some of the changes include additional HDMI improvements, and they want to validate those on the D2v and then port them to the D2 code stream before making the V1.47x firmware "official" for the D2.
> 
> --Bob



Hello,


It's the first ARC measurement I perform while running 2.08h. Before that i had the release 2.08. I have noticed something weird. The sound in stereo or multi-channel is "flat". No depth, no dynamic. I thought the Dolby Volume was engaged but no, it isn't. For this measurement I also reduced the test level by 6dB before running ARC. I expected the level in ARC to fall from 85dB to 75dB but no. It was more like around 80dB.

Any idea about what's happening?

Should I downgrade? Reset to factory defaults and ARC again?

I don't like the way it sound right now.


Thank you


Note! Referring to the post that follows, my mains are connected via XLR balanced output whereas the other 5 outputs are connected via regular single ended cables.


----------



## netroamer

Is the -6db fix applicable to both balanced output systems and unbalanced systems?


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18585501
> 
> 
> A couple quick notes on firmware:
> 
> 
> Nick tells me they are up to V2.08m internally for the D2v, and still have a few more fixes they want to include before replacing the current, V2.08h Beta firmware. I gather they've made good progress with Dolby Volume.
> 
> 
> Some of the changes include additional HDMI improvements, and they want to validate those on the D2v and then port them to the D2 code stream before making the V1.47x firmware "official" for the D2.
> 
> --Bob



I hope they will also fix the AL-Movie, PLII Movie, PLII Music. They get to 2 channels plus sub. But after moving up or down between modes the problem gets fixed and get sound from 5.1. AL-Movie directs the sound to the wrong channels for example the center sound is comming from left and right even after switching modes. I am using fw 2.08.


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18585501
> 
> 
> A couple quick notes on firmware:
> 
> 
> Some of the changes include additional HDMI improvements, and they want to validate those on the D2v and then port them to the D2 code stream before making the V1.47x firmware "official" for the D2.
> 
> --Bob



Will the V1.47x be applicable to the D2's with the black board or is it only for the red?


Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18588715
> 
> 
> I hope they will also fix the AL-Movie, PLII Movie, PLII Music. They get to 2 channels plus sub. But after moving up or down between modes the problem gets fixed and get sound from 5.1. AL-Movie directs the sound to the wrong channels for example the center sound is comming from left and right even after switching modes. I am using fw 2.08.



This appears to be fixed already in "test" V2.08h

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18588895
> 
> 
> Will the V1.47x be applicable to the D2's with the black board or is it only for the red?
> 
> 
> Ken



That "x" is just a marker by the way. I've got no idea what the released firmware will actually be named when it finally happens. Most likely V1.5, I would think.


I don't see how they can put it out as official firmware until they figure out how to make it work on all production versions of the D2 and AVM 50, but Nick did not volunteer whether they have already cracked that nut.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18587123
> 
> 
> Is the -6db fix applicable to both balanced output systems and unbalanced systems?



We don't know the cause, so any answer is just a guess. But we've had reports from folks here that they think they have this problem on both RCA and XLR. We have reports from other folks who don't have the problem as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18586802
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> It's the first ARC measurement I perform while running 2.08h. Before that i had the release 2.08. I have noticed something weird. The sound in stereo or multi-channel is "flat". No depth, no dynamic. I thought the Dolby Volume was engaged but no, it isn't. For this measurement I also reduced the test level by 6dB before running ARC. I expected the level in ARC to fall from 85dB to 75dB but no. It was more like around 80dB.
> 
> Any idea about what's happening?
> 
> Should I downgrade? Reset to factory defaults and ARC again?
> 
> I don't like the way it sound right now.
> 
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> Note! Referring to the post that follows, my mains are connected via XLR balanced output whereas the other 5 outputs are connected via regular single ended cables.



This is almost certainly a settings mistake.


Make sure you haven't screwed up the settings since the ARC Upload:


Open your results file in ARC's Advanced mode and re-Upload it. Then go into Setup and make sure Room EQ is ON for each Source (and Dolby Volume is OFF). Then Save User and Installer Settings so that you can't accidentally screw up the settings by restoring from them.


If you have any Sources set to use the Music configuration, be sure you have the Music configuration you want in your ARC solution. I.e., if you made Targets changes for Movie, you likely need to make them for Music as well. Then re-Calculate and re-Upload. Double check that each Source is using your desired choice of Movie vs. Music for Bass Management.


Also make sure you don't have any of the "temporary" level adjustments active. To clear all of them at once, go into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue via the front panel.

3) Reload Saved User Settings


The "temporary" volume trims are not saved, so this clears all of them.


If you are using triggers to activate your amps/sub make sure those triggers are configured correctly -- i.e., that the sub is actually turning on.


---------------------------------------


As best we can tell, the amount you need to reduce Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level is 6dB. Note that this is the ONLY line you adjust to fix this. It acts as master volume for all the other volume trims.


But since we don't know the cause of the problem, we don't know if 6dB is correct in all cases.


That said, I suspect the 4dB difference you are still looking for is just due to the way you are using your SPL meter. For example, you need to pick a range on the meter that has the targeted SPL level in the middle of the range as the meter will be less accurate if you use it on range up or down from that.


In any event, it's no big deal. Trust the level ARC is reporting on the charts. If that says you need to reduce Test Level another 3 or 4dB then go ahead and do so before your next Measurement pass.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SMabille_UK* /forum/post/18575327
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for your detailed reply.
> 
> 
> 1) I (nearly) fixed the centre speaker issue, it's a location/orientation issue, it was temporarily on the floor, it gets better, still not perfect but at least I don't think there is a technical problem there.
> 
> 
> 2) The grill cloth/mounting is different for LF/RF, Central on one side and LS/RS on the other. I contacted Anthem support but Andrew came back with the following reply, which I don't fully understand/agree with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andrew also recommended to push correction to 10Khz, but having done that the sound is unnatural (harpsichord "pinch", drum rake (not sure how you say it in English - the metal brush used on drum) both far too present on classical/jazz, "nasal" sound on pop/rock).
> 
> At first, I wasn't sure if it was me being used to the lack of 10Khz but I had a friend coming to listen to the Anthem and without asking/let him know he pointed out the same problem.
> 
> 
> I have attached the latest measurements (after moving central) and have exactly the same drop at 10Khz.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Stephane



I find it hard to imagine a wall reflection situation that could produce the 25dB swing you are seeing in treble on all speakers. Your room would have to ring like a bell. Do you hear echoes if you clap your hands?


Is the room bare? No rugs? No soft stuff on the walls/windows.


I'd recommend asking Anthem to swap out your mic and mic calibration file. If that doesn't fix it, then you need to consider other common points of failure such as you power amp.


Your report that raising Max EQ Frequency didn't produce good results is evidence that the swing is not "real", but this stuff is tricky. So best to take it a step at a time.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Since I know we have a lot of Oppo Blu-Ray player users on this thread, I'll make quick mention that Oppo just went live with new "official" firmware for the BDP-83 and BDP-83SE. The Main firmware portion is dated 0424:

http://www.oppodigital.com/blu-ray-b...e-50-0424.aspx 


Highly recommended. Discussion should be over in the Oppo technical thread in the Blu-Ray Players forum.

--Bob


----------



## SMabille_UK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18589189
> 
> 
> I find it hard to imagine a wall reflection situation that could produce the 25dB swing you are seeing in treble on all speakers. Your room would have to ring like a bell. Do you hear echoes if you clap your hands?
> 
> 
> Is the room bare? No rugs? No soft stuff on the walls/windows.
> 
> 
> I'd recommend asking Anthem to swap out your mic and mic calibration file. If that doesn't fix it, then you need to consider other common points of failure such as you power amp.
> 
> 
> Your report that raising Max EQ Frequency didn't produce good results is evidence that the swing is not "real", but this stuff is tricky. So best to take it a step at a time.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


I'm (finally) waiting for a replacement mic from Anthem 


There is no echo when I clap my hands and have carpet flooring and (closed) heavy curtain on (large) windows on left wall (about 50% of the "wall" surface is curtained window).


Regarding amp I have separate amplifiers for FR/FL and Center/surrounds.


My best bet is to check with the replacement mic.


Thanks for your help!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New D2v / AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.08m now on Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem tech support has just placed D2v and AVM 50v "test" firmware V2.08m on their password protected download page. Change notes for changes since the current "official" V2.08 (20nov09) release now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.08m beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Updated Dolby Volume calibration and user interface according to latest specification.
> 
> 
> 2. Muting modification to prevent or reduce noises associated with certain players when chapter-skipping Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD soundtracks.
> 
> 
> v2.08h beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Added HDMI-out bit depth options in menu 1. Try 8 or 10 bit settings if you're having trouble with a long HDMI output connection that worked reliably with older equipment.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed mode preset for 2-channel input.
> 
> 
> 3. Fixed test noises in room resonance and level calibration menus.
> 
> 
> 4. Dolby Volume - fixed level calibration.
> 
> 
> 5. Certain DD-1.0 soundtracks did not work - fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08e beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Adjusted Dolby Volume reference level such that Music level is closer to Off level (Movie is louder).
> 
> 
> 2. Improved accuracy of day/time clock.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08d beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Preliminary version with Dolby Volume. The menu layout and algorithm is not final but it's close - this is just for anyone interested to get a feel for what's in store. For operating instructions open d2v_manual v2.1.pdf and type "Dolby Volume" in your pdf viewer's search box.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08a beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Updated OKI bootloader to reduce chance of a video board programming failure and support restoring non-functioning video boards when a serial strap is installed.
> 
> 
> 2. Changes to HDCP code.
> 
> 
> 3. Changes to impedance and drive strength settings for HDMI switches.



Given the number of builds between V2.08h and V2.08m there are likely some undocumented changes/fixes as well, which we will need to see if we can detect.


As always, "test" firmware is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises requiring you to revert to a prior version.


The draft Manual included in this download has not been updated yet, so there is no documentation just yet on the changes to the Dolby Volume user interface. There will likely be a new, draft manual fairly soon.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SMabille_UK* /forum/post/18592056
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I'm (finally) waiting for a replacement mic from Anthem
> 
> 
> There is no echo when I clap my hands and have carpet flooring and (closed) heavy curtain on (large) windows on left wall (about 50% of the "wall" surface is curtained window).
> 
> 
> Regarding amp I have separate amplifiers for FR/FL and Center/surrounds.
> 
> 
> My best bet is to check with the replacement mic.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help!



You should be getting a replacement pair of licensing and mic calibration files as well which you should copy into the proper Anthem folder found in Windows > Program Files to replace the files you'll find in the same folder as the installed version of the ARC V2.4 application. The two files have names made up of the serial number of your Anthem processor and the serial number of the mic. Tech support will likely just email those to you.


While you still have the old mic, be careful you don't use it by mistake. The ARC application can tell whether or not you have an ARC mic plugged in, but it can't tell whether you have the CORRECT ARC mic plugged in.


Well let's hope the replacement mic does it for you. This treble stuff is still very mysterious. Measuring treble is sensitive to all sorts of things you might not expect such as room humidity!


Make sure you position the mic pointing straight up at each mic position, and positioned at seated ear height. If you use reclining chairs set the chairs and mic according to how you like to use the chair. Keep the mic tip away from chair backs, walls or other blocking/reflective surfaces. Raise the mic a few inches to clear a chair back or position it about a foot closer to the screen.


When you get to it, you might also want to try an experiment where you remove the grill from at least one of your main speakers to see if there is any effect.


And double check the speaker manuals for installation recommendations. For example, some speakers (with electrostatic tweeters for example) MUST have a significant amount of air space BEHIND them to produce proper treble. The grill and positioning stuff is unlikely to be the problem since you are seeing essentially the same thing on all speakers, but nevertheless this sort of stuff is worth checking.

--Bob


----------



## ASW

I have a never used red video board from my now upgraded D2 (it was a replacement for a bad video board in my D2 that I never got around to installing before I decided tro upgrade). If you are interested, PM me.


Alan


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I installed "test" V2.08m without problems. The install took 18 minutes. Note that if you are coming from older firmware, the install may take longer. I also re-Uploaded my current ARC setup (made back with ARC V2.3), "just in case".


The test tones in Setup > Level Calibration, and the special bass test tones in Setup > Speaker Configuration > Room Resonance Filter are both broken again in this firmware. You don't get any tones at all. Anthem has been notified.


The only change I've spotted so far in the Dolby Volume user interface is that the choices which used to be Off, Movie, and Music are now Off, Cinema, and On respectively. I believe Dolby is aiming for "Cinema Reference" as their marketing term for this, but there are character count limits in the D2v display.


I can't validate with the broken test tones, but based on my old ARC results it appears that if you have set up for a 75dB SPL ARC solution (whether or not you've had to lower Test Level an additional 6dB to achieve that), and leave Setup > Level Calibration > Dolby Volume Cal at the default of 0dB then DV OFF and DV ON (what used to be "Music") produce the same output level.


DV Cinema (what used to be "Movie") appears to produce an output level which is precisely 10dB SPL higher. It appears Dolby wants Cinema to turn a 75dB SPL home theater setup into an 85dB SPL commercial movie house setup. I don't know if it does anything else different than just cranking main volume up 10dB.


Setup > Level Calibration > Dolby Volume Cal appears to work in a more intuitive fashion now. If 0dB is producing equal output for DV Off and DV ON (as in the 75dB setup described above), then lowering DV Cal will reduce the output level for DV ON (or Cinema) and raising DV Cal will raise the output level for DV ON (or Cinema).


(Changing Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level appears to have no effect on the output level, which makes sense of course as it should only apply to the test tones in that menu. I've returned it to the -8dB (i.e., an additional 6dB down) that I had to use to get a 75dB SPL solution from ARC back when I did my current ARC run many months ago.)


So far I've not spotted any HDMI changes affecting my gear.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

*Test version 2.08N is now on test page.*


CHANGE LIST


v2.08n beta:


1. Muting in previous beta also muted test tones in menu 5 and room resonance menu... fixed.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^^What he said. That was fast.


On another item, Nick tells me that he was under the impression from previous test versions that DV Cinema was "supposed to be" 11dB louder than DV On, but it's possible that has been refined to 10dB in the latest code.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18595292
> 
> 
> ^^^What he said. That was fast.
> 
> --Bob



Between my D2v, PS3 and oppo it has been a firmware day
















John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As advertised, the calibration tones are functioning again in "test" V2.08n. The same is true for the special bass test tones in Room Resonance Filter.


Running through Setup > Level Calibration, I find that Dolby Volume Cal at 0dB produces a test tone which is a few dB LOWER than the other test tones. I do not know what this implies, but raising it would make DV ON louder than DV OFF so for now I'm going to leave it at 0dB.


In my setup, a Test Level of -2.0dB produces 75dB SPL, which is as it has been for quite some time. A Test Level of -8.0dB, on the other hand, is what was needed to get a 75dB SPL solution from ARC back in November (I've not tried again since then). As best I can tell, adjusting Test Level has no impact on normal playback, so long as I don't fiddle with any of the other volume trims, which is what I would expect. In any event I'm going to leave it at -8.0dB for now EXCEPT when I'm testing things in Level Calibration itself.


It would be nice if we could get a better handle on what Dolby Volume Cal is *SUPPOSED* to do.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Bob, do we know if there were any HDMI "tweaks" between 2.08h which I'm running now and 2.08n? Just in the last 4 days, I have started getting dropouts of my video signal via HDMI completely, drops for like 3 seconds then shows up again. Coincident with this, I have also lost on-screen display completely now...it worked fine previously, and I've had 2.08h for a month or more now. Have you ever seen OSD disappear like that and mysterious HDMI dropouts that occur when nothing is being switched at all, then resolve themselves by themselves within 4 seconds or so?


Thanks,

Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18595900
> 
> 
> Bob, do we know if there were any HDMI "tweaks" between 2.08h which I'm running now and 2.08n? Just in the last 4 days, I have started getting dropouts of my video signal via HDMI completely, drops for like 3 seconds then shows up again. Coincident with this, I have also lost on-screen display completely now...it worked fine previously, and I've had 2.08h for a month or more now. Have you ever seen OSD disappear like that and mysterious HDMI dropouts that occur when nothing is being switched at all, then resolve themselves by themselves within 4 seconds or so?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brian



No HDMI changes have been advertised, but I know for a fact that they are working on additional HDMI tweaks, and some of them are likely included in V2.08n.


Your problem sounds like a flakey connection to the display. Double check that the display cable is fully inserted at both ends with no stress in any direction that might shift the plug.


Also try temporarily reducing to 1080i/60 to the display. If that cures the problem then a flakey cable connection is even more likely.


--------------------------------------


If you meant that you have lost on-screen display even when the normal video program is WORKING then you should re-install the firmware.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18595304
> 
> 
> Between my D2v, PS3 and oppo it has been a firmware day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Updated my Oppo SE yesterday ...waiting to upgrade my AVM50v when the official FW is released! ....waiting, waiting & waiting


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18596295
> 
> 
> No HDMI changes have been advertised, but I know for a fact that they are working on additional HDMI tweaks, and some of them are likely included in V2.08n.
> 
> 
> Your problem sounds like a flakey connection to the display. Double check that the display cable is fully inserted at both ends with no stress in any direction that might shift the plug.
> 
> 
> Also try temporarily reducing to 1080i/60 to the display. If that cures the problem then a flakey cable connection is even more likely.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you meant that you have lost on-screen display even when the normal video program is WORKING then you should re-install the firmware.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah, I have had no OSD at all, even when the output is working, for the last 5 days or so. I just hope that this isn't a sign that my video board has gone bad! This was a brand new dealer demo unit from November-ish and the D2v is totally solid otherwise. I will try re-installing the firmware, though instead of re-installing 2.08h I may go to the new 2.08n...if that doesn't do it, I would likely revert back to plain old 2.08.


Thanks,

Brian


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18597136
> 
> 
> Updated my Oppo SE yesterday ...waiting to upgrade my AVM50v when the official FW is released! ....waiting, waiting & waiting



Sounds like they are trying to get a solid firmware version for the older models, glad to see that.

John


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


In manual it says "Skip this menu if using Anthem Room Correction on all sources."

Just wanted to make sure. Is it so?

Are they both incompatible?

What about THX Boundary Gain Compensation? and THX Ultra 2 Sub?

Should they too be disregarded?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Room Resonance Filter, Center EQ, Ultra 2 Sub, Boundary Gain Compensation, and Subwoofer LFE Bypass are all disabled during ARC Measurement. They are also disabled during normal use for any Source with Room EQ (i.e., ARC) ON. ARC handles all that stuff in its own more sophisticated way.


If you play any Source with Room EQ OFF then any settings you have for those will take effect.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18597766
> 
> 
> Yeah, I have had no OSD at all, even when the output is working, for the last 5 days or so. I just hope that this isn't a sign that my video board has gone bad! This was a brand new dealer demo unit from November-ish and the D2v is totally solid otherwise. I will try re-installing the firmware, though instead of re-installing 2.08h I may go to the new 2.08n...if that doesn't do it, I would likely revert back to plain old 2.08.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brian



Use V2.08n. If that doesn't fix your OSD problem right away, then Reload Factory Defaults and try again with the minimal Setup menu entries needed to get video. If still no OSD, then you need hardware service.


My bet is that the firmware re-install will fix it.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18597136
> 
> 
> Updated my Oppo SE yesterday ...waiting to upgrade my AVM50v when the official FW is released! ....waiting, waiting & waiting




+1, nice to see that they are working on the updates, but I also have been waiting on official firmware with DV...


How is everyone feeling about the current dolby volume...?

Is it stable enough to run... results..? I would like to update, I will need to rerun ARC soon, so It will be important that the test tones are fairly important for me to upgrade....



I haven't upgraded firmware on my D2v yet...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

EVERBODY should at least be on "official" V2.08 firmware and ARC V2.4. If you are still on older firmware you should update now to get important bug fixes.


"Test" V2.08n looks promising.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

I am on an older version, but I have been waiting for something more stable with Dolby Volume.... I haven't really had any issues with my firmware that has made me feel that it was all that much a problem...


I'll take the plunge and try out 2.08n... As long as the Test tones are working, I guess this should be the one for me to start with...


----------



## jayray

Well one thing that is definitely fixed is the crackling and sub thumping that I have had with my XA2 HD DVD player for a long time. 2.08n has fixed this very annoying problem and now when pausing, FF, chapter skipping no sounds







This only occurred with TrueHD and DTS-MA either with PCM or Bitstreaming. Presumably the hdmi fixes have had something to do with this.

John


----------



## Kensmith48

ASW,

I sent you a PM regarding the red video board.


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Can somebody clarify this mess, Please?


- In my HTPC, I can set PC or Video color range (0-255 vs 16-235)

- In my D2v, I can set Studio or Extended RGB both in the D2v settings and in the video board settings

- My proj also has those settings

- And finally my Oppo Bdp-83 too


I mostly read MKV and BD's.

But both of them are sometimes originated from actual movies (Extended RGB?) or documentaries, broadcasts, etc...(Studio RGB?)

How should I set all these parameters?

What is the best practice?

What is worth calibrating my proj for hours against a pattern generators if I end up feeding it the wrong signal?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

See the post links in the first post of this thread. In particular see "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" in the Setup section and see the posts on data formats (e.g., YCbCr and RGB) in the Terminology and Technology section.


The input and output settings are independent. Use the output settings from the D2v that work best with your display. Set this up first.


Then use the input settings from each Source that work best with each Source. The D2v will do the conversions.


The typical default for an HDMI to HDMI connection is YCbCr 4:4:4


If you use RGB, you must manually set both sides of the cable to use the same data range, as the data range is not negotiated in the handshake. For home theater use, if you use RGB the Studio RGB data range (Black = 16) is the normal choice. You'll also use this if either end of the cable is a DVI device instead of HDMI. Extended RGB (Black=0) is for use with computer graphics cards that can not be set to output Studio RGB.


Some Sources and some displays may have bugs using the typical default settings, in which case you can try the other data formats to see if you can evade the bug that way.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I tried "test" V2.08n with my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi SD-DVD player -- one of the first HDMI V1.0 devices -- to see if the "buzz/snap" audio problem I've had with it since the first D2v firmware might have been cured by the muting changes made in this version. The buzz snap occurs, for example, when HDMI Bitstream input of DD5.1 audio is interrupted as by Chapter Forward.


Unfortunately the failure behavior has not changed.


This is not big deal for me, as I only use this player for testing these days. Anyway, I've reported the result to Anthem. My original D2 never exhibited this problem with this player.

--Bobm


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18599084
> 
> 
> Use V2.08n. If that doesn't fix your OSD problem right away, then Reload Factory Defaults and try again with the minimal Setup menu entries needed to get video. If still no OSD, then you need hardware service.
> 
> 
> My bet is that the firmware re-install will fix it.
> 
> --Bob



Wow, I gotta tell you, i have just about had it with HDMI issues and the D2V. This is so frustrating - I've just spent the entire night, 6 hours or more, trying to get my OSD back. No luck. I have loaded a fresh install of 2.08n, that didn't work, then tried going back to 2.08h, that didn't work, and then back to normal 2.08 and now that doesn't work. Each time during my firmware reinstalls, there are no HDMI devices connected at all, reloaded factory defaults, no display connected, and I'm loading the firmware perfectly with supposed "success" each time. Now I'm back on the publicly available 2.08 and still the same exact symptoms as before. I can now only get a picture from the second, lower HDMI output slot, and even then the picture will disappear periodically, flash to black, and then come back just as quickly. There is no OSD at all, under any circumstances. By the way, when the picture disappears suddenly, it is *not* like it is having trouble with the HDMI syncing per se, its not that kind of little EDID dance...it's just like the picture disappears, then reappears within about 3 to 5 seconds. I had perfect settings saved to User Settings, working just fine before, and now this crap. The only reason I made a change was because I realized my little Meridian HDMI 1x1 repeater device was the cause of my inability to listen to DVD-Audio discs without the TV on. Apparently, even though the old D2 had no problem with it, the new D2V doesn't support the "HDMI Repeater" function and after going back and forth with support on that, they finally admitted that the function was removed because it was technically against HDMI spec to allow it in the first place! Well, they put crap out there and people are gonna use it, and I for one was using it with full success the whole time, never knowing that the HDMI police were gonna change the spec so that certain setups like mine would break....ugghh...so anyway, isolating the previous HDMI problem to that Meridian repeater in the middle between the D2V and the display, I simply removed it from the mix, and connected an HDMI Detective Plus as recommended. Sure enough, my lack of DVD-audio listening when the TV was off went away, that problem solved! By the way, I've also tried it with no device at all between the D2V and the TV and that works fine for the DVD-audio issue also(!), but does NOT change my results with the latest lack of OSD and the flaking out and disappearing of my video signal. So, with or without the Gefen HDMI Detective Plus in the mix, I still have the issue with no OSD and frequent dropping of the video signal, then resumption of it. By the way, I've also tried using the other HDMI port on the TV, same problem exists. I've also made sure it is not the TV by connecting an XBOX directly to the HDMI port on the TV and seeing no such dropouts at all. And I've also analyzed this issue using different video sources through the D2V (Tivo, satellite box, Anthem Bluray player, AppleTV, Pioneer dvd player) and all suffer the same issue, so it is not the source that is the problem. Something in the D2V got fried when I simply powered it off the other day and removed the old HDMI connection through the Meridian repeater. I simply removed it and went straight to the TV from the D2V and then eventually ended up going straight from the D2V to the HDMI detective plus and then to the TV. In both scenarios, same crappy results.


If I have to send this thing back, i'm sending it back for good...if you could see how much work it will be to dismantle all of this, you would understand. I have just about had it. Total crap-fest. The fact that HDMI is this touchy is an absolute travesty. I've always known it was not well designed from the get-go, but this horror story i'm living just proves all the more why the protocol, or should I say 4 different protocols at least, is complete crap.


I'm sorry to rant here guys, but the amount of wasted effort simply to get a usable theater working has now eliminated any patience I had left. I will work further on it with whatever suggestions people have, but honestly, having painstakingly isolated it the way I think I have, it has to be something new with the D2V. Just when I fix one problem, now I've got a much worse one. Time for a stiff drink.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Make sure you test this with Factory Defaults loaded and just the bare minimum of manual Setup entries to get video going.


Unless Factory Defaults changes the behavior, my guess is that you've just had a hardware failure, and the fact that it happened while you were trying the other stuff is just coincidence. It is unfortunate, but it does happen. That's what warranties are for.


Talk to the folks at Anthem and they'll walk you through whether there's anything more you can do to fix this short of sending it in for hardware service.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18602397
> 
> 
> My guess is that you've just had a hardware failure, and the fact that it happened while you were trying the other stuff is just coincidence. It is unfortunate, but it does happen. That's what warranties are for.
> 
> 
> Talk to the folks at Anthem and they'll walk you through whether there's anything more you can do to fix this short of sending it in for hardware service.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah, I hear ya Bob - what about the flash erasers for the video board? Are those still employed ever? I have a feeling there is some bit that got corrupted and perhaps nuking the video board and starting over might make a difference.


Thoughts? Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18602403
> 
> 
> Yeah, I hear ya Bob - what about the flash erasers for the video board? Are those still employed ever? I have a feeling there is some bit that got corrupted and perhaps nuking the video board and starting over might make a difference.
> 
> 
> Thoughts? Thanks.



If the firmware install completes without complaints then the Flash Eraser won't help.


There's a factory reset procedure for the video board, but I doubt that will help either as, really, if the installer says that everything went OK then it has verified the install.


There are cables and the HDMI output daughter board that might need to be reseated, but loss of the OSD is not a typical symptom of that.


In the interim, try the HDMI 2 output from your D2v. Now the OSD isn't available on HDMI 2, but you might be able to get stable video to keep you going until you work out the next step with Anthem tech support. There are two video processor signal paths, so it is possible for one to fail and the other to still be working.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

ManWithAPlan,


Recently I had a problem with the disappearing acts you described too. As a last resort, I suspected a contact issue somewhere in the inerts, so I opened up the cover and poked around the video board sittings and connectors. Replaced the cover, reconnected the video cables and hey presto, no more disppearing video and OSD. Everything is working like a dream now.


Ben


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18602560
> 
> 
> ManWithAPlan,
> 
> 
> Recently I had a problem with the disappearing acts you described too. As a last resort, I suspected a contact issue somewhere in the inerts, so I opened up the cover and poked around the video board sittings and connectors. Replaced the cover, reconnected the video cables and hey presto, no more disppearing video and OSD. Everything is working like a dream now.
> 
> 
> Ben



Hey Ben, wow, you might be on to something there. It'll be a few days before I can dismantle everything to pull the unit out and open it up to reseat the connector cables and such, but it sounds like it's worth a try. Your symptoms were literally exactly the same as mine are now.


Thanks a ton for the help!

-Brian


----------



## mkaye

i installed 2.08n and everything seemed fine, except all my AM/FM presets are gone!


mark


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18602921
> 
> 
> i installed 2.08n and everything seemed fine, except all my AM/FM presets are gone!
> 
> 
> mark



I assume you saved user settings before the firmware install. Reload the user settings and this should give you back your presets. Or perhaps you did a backup of settings onto your computer which can be uploaded.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18602572
> 
> 
> Hey Ben, wow, you might be on to something there. It'll be a few days before I can dismantle everything to pull the unit out and open it up to reseat the connector cables and such, but it sounds like it's worth a try. Your symptoms were literally exactly the same as mine are now.
> 
> 
> Thanks a ton for the help!
> 
> -Brian



I suggest you talk to Anthem tech support before you open up the chassis, and if you do open the chassis, either on your own or at their suggestion, be sure to take static electricity precautions so that you don't zap any of the electronics.


Best practice for static electricity is to use a properly grounded anti-static mat and wrist strap.


The most common thing that needs reseating is the HDMI output daughter board. But again, anything loose there would typically NOT cause the OSD to go away. It could be related to your loss of video however.


I presume you are using the HDMI 1 output, correct? The HDMI 2 output never has OSD displays. That's the one difference between the two as otherwise HDMI 2 out carries the same signal as HDMI 1 out.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18603321
> 
> 
> I suggest you talk to Anthem tech support before you open up the chassis, and if you do open the chassis, either on your own or at their suggestion, be sure to take static electricity precautions so that you don't zap any of the electronics.
> 
> 
> Best practice for static electricity is to use a properly grounded anti-static mat and wrist strap.
> 
> 
> The most common thing that needs reseating is the HDMI output daughter board. But again, anything loose there would typically NOT cause the OSD to go away. It could be related to your loss of video however.
> 
> 
> I presume you are using the HDMI 1 output, correct? The HDMI 2 output never has OSD displays. That's the one difference between the two as otherwise HDMI 2 out carries the same signal as HDMI 1 out.
> 
> --Bob



Yep, got it Bob, I'm very used to the whole anti-static thing, have wrist strap will travel! I will try reseating the HMDI board and everything when I get a free 10 hours to remove the entire rack of equipment and disconnect everything.


For now, I am using HDMI output 2 without OSD, but still get frequent dropouts all the time just like on HDMI output1. But for the record, again, there was no OSD on HDMI output1 in the last several days either. The difference is now I cannot get ANY video output at all from HDMI output1, so I'm limping along with output2 and dealing with frequent dropouts. What a total pain, I have company coming for 'movie nite' tonight...I guess we'll be hitting the theaters!


I do appreciate the help guys, and any other things you think of, please let me know. Cheers guys.


-Brian


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18603232
> 
> 
> I assume you saved user settings before the firmware install. Reload the user settings and this should give you back your presets. Or perhaps you did a backup of settings onto your computer which can be uploaded.
> 
> John



yes, saved & restored the settings using the front panel

i was avoiding using the computer, as Bob stated, it may not be in sync with current firmware


mark


----------



## thestewman

I recently started experiencing the loss of wide frequency response in only the center channel on my D2.

I basically only hear the midrange speaker in a 3 way center channel speaker.

I have changed everything, cables, amplifier, speaker and have isolated it to the D2 center output.

I wonder if anyone else has had this problem ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/18603901
> 
> 
> I recently started experiencing the loss of wide frequency response in only the center channel on my D2.
> 
> I basically only hear the midrange speaker in a 3 way center channel speaker.
> 
> I have changed everything, cables, amplifier, speaker and have isolated it to the D2 center output.
> 
> I wonder if anyone else has had this problem ?



It is *VERY* unusual for an audio output to have a hardware failure which causes it to lose only some of the frequencies.


It is much more likely to be a problem in the speaker itself, or in the settings.


For example if you have mistakenly set the crossover too high on Center then of course all the Center channel bass will be steered to the sub and so you won't hear it from Center.


There are also EQ settings in each Source definition that you can screw up to lose the treble. Normally you leave them at the default 0dB.


Anyway the first order of business is to move the output wire from the Center output of the D2 to another output such as the LF output and see if the problem in the Center speaker goes away. If it does, then something is definitely screwed up in the Center output and you can check into settings problems.


But if the problem persists in the speaker even when it is being fed by the LF output from the D2, then the problem is *NOT* in the Center channel output of the D2 and so you need to do a few more test like this, step by step getting closer to the speaker to see where the problem happens to be.


The most common reason for losing frequencies from a speaker is that the speaker is broken.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18601070
> 
> 
> .../....
> 
> 1 - The input and output settings are independent. Use the output settings from the D2v that work best with your display. Set this up first.
> 
> .../...
> 
> 2 - The typical default for an HDMI to HDMI connection is YCbCr 4:4:4
> 
> .../...
> 
> 3 - For home theater use, if you use RGB the Studio RGB data range (Black = 16) is the normal choice. You'll also use this if either end of the cable is a DVI device instead of HDMI. Extended RGB (Black=0) is for use with computer graphics cards that can not be set to output Studio RGB.
> 
> .../...
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


1 - I guess you mean in the Video Output screen. Ok. But what with the video board settings (pressing '7')? There too I can select Studio or Extended.


2 - So should I set it this way instead of Auto? What will happen if I play a video file that is not from BD origin?


3 - Does it mean I should set my HTPC's nVidia contril panel to output Studio RGB (16-235)?


Thanks


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18603973
> 
> 
> It is *VERY* unusual for an audio output to have a hardware failure which causes it to lose only some of the frequencies.
> 
> 
> It is much more likely to be a problem in the speaker itself, or in the settings.
> 
> 
> For example if you have mistakenly set the crossover too high on Center then of course all the Center channel bass will be steered to the sub and so you won't hear it from Center.
> 
> 
> There are also EQ settings in each Source definition that you can screw up to lose the treble. Normally you leave them at the default 0dB.
> 
> 
> Anyway the first order of business is to move the output wire from the Center output of the D2 to another output such as the LF output and see if the problem in the Center speaker goes away. If it does, then something is definitely screwed up in the Center output and you can check into settings problems.
> 
> 
> But if the problem persists in the speaker even when it is being fed by the LF output from the D2, then the problem is *NOT* in the Center channel output of the D2 and so you need to do a few more test like this, step by step getting closer to the speaker to see where the problem happens to be.
> 
> 
> The most common reason for losing frequencies from a speaker is that the speaker is broken.
> 
> --Bob



I did a complete process of elimination yesterday.

If I move the center output cable (balanced) from the D2 to a different speaker the bad audio goes to the newly connected speaker.

If I move any other speaker output to the center speaker the center speaker sounds OK.

I just now went to copy down my xover settings for you and noticed that Room EQ is NA ??

I wonder what happened to my ARC settings ?

Reinstalling The User or Installer settings did not help.


----------



## spiderv6

It's been a while since I felt the need to play with the beta firmware, but this latest version sounds like its close to ready so thought I'd have a play.


With the redesigned pages I cannot find where they have buried the link.


Can someone post it?


I know it needs a userid and password.


----------



## [email protected]




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18603424
> 
> 
> Yep, got it Bob, I'm very used to the whole anti-static thing, have wrist strap will travel! I will try reseating the HMDI board and everything when I get a free 10 hours to remove the entire rack of equipment and disconnect everything.
> 
> 
> For now, I am using HDMI output 2 without OSD, but still get frequent dropouts all the time just like on HDMI output1. But for the record, again, there was no OSD on HDMI output1 in the last several days either. The difference is now I cannot get ANY video output at all from HDMI output1, so I'm limping along with output2 and dealing with frequent dropouts. What a total pain, I have company coming for 'movie nite' tonight...I guess we'll be hitting the theaters!
> 
> 
> I do appreciate the help guys, and any other things you think of, please let me know. Cheers guys.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Why don't you just run the HDMI out cable directly from your blu-ray player instead of from the Anthem for your video and use a digital coax from your blu-ray to the Anthem for the audio so you can enjoy your "movie night" and then it's just a simple cable swap until it's fixed.


----------



## smkss

Hi Brian,


This sounds like the exact problem I came across with my D2V. I had no video output or OSD from HDMI 1 and when I used HDMI out 2 I had audio and video dropouts every few minutes.


I consulted with Bob Pariseau who was more than helpful and went over various steps with me to troubleshoot the issue but the problem was what I had feared...it was hardware related, a defective video processing board and DSP board. I sent it to Anthem and they replaced these two items for me which cost me a little over 3k since my unit was not under warranty. It took about two weeks and I have had my unit back for a little over a week and its perfect!


Hopefully this is not the case with yours but it sounds almost identical to the problem I had.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/18604431
> 
> 
> Why don't you just run the HDMI out cable directly from your blu-ray player instead of from the Anthem for your video and use a digital coax from your blu-ray to the Anthem for the audio so you can enjoy your "movie night" and then it's just a simple cable swap until it's fixed.



Right, yeah, of course, but if you could see how this is all set up you wouldn't think it's so easy. If I'm going to do that, I might as well remove the entire rack from the embeded wall cave it's in and that's in fact what it would take to un-do what the existing wiring setup provides and rewire the way you suggest. Again, when you buy something and within 2 months it no longer processes video output properly, for the kind of money we are spending on our Anthem gear, is unacceptable, pure and simple. I will leave it there, but don't think everyone's setup can be easily switched around at will after a permanent custom installation.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/18604249
> 
> 
> It's been a while since I felt the need to play with the beta firmware, but this latest version sounds like its close to ready so thought I'd have a play.
> 
> 
> With the redesigned pages I cannot find where they have buried the link.
> 
> 
> Can someone post it?
> 
> 
> I know it needs a userid and password.



It is not, and as far as I know it never has been, a link from their public pages.


It is no big secret, but Anthem tech support has asked us not to post the access information on AVS. They are trying to keep at least some sort of track as to who is using this stuff, as well as making sure that folks realize "test" releases are not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises.


Just call or email Anthem tech support and tell them you would like to help out in testing the V2.08n "test" firmware, and they will likely reply right away with the access info.


If you already have the username and password and have just forgotten the URL, PM me and I'll remind you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/18604224
> 
> 
> I did a complete process of elimination yesterday.
> 
> If I move the center output cable (balanced) from the D2 to a different speaker the bad audio goes to the newly connected speaker.
> 
> If I move any other speaker output to the center speaker the center speaker sounds OK.
> 
> I just now went to copy down my xover settings for you and noticed that Room EQ is NA ??
> 
> I wonder what happened to my ARC settings ?
> 
> Reinstalling The User or Installer settings did not help.



That Room EQ status is almost certainly significant. It means the firmware does not believe there is a valid set of Room Correction parameters Uploaded into the unit.


I suggest you open your latest ARC results file in ARC's Advanced mode and redo the Upload.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18604041
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> 1 - I guess you mean in the Video Output screen. Ok. But what with the video board settings (pressing '7')? There too I can select Studio or Extended.
> 
> 
> 2 - So should I set it this way instead of Auto? What will happen if I play a video file that is not from BD origin?
> 
> 
> 3 - Does it mean I should set my HTPC's nVidia contril panel to output Studio RGB (16-235)?
> 
> 
> Thanks



1) The Video Source Adjust menu settings are the "input" settings -- used to best match your Sources to the D2v. (EXCEPTION: Video Source Adjust > Output menu items alter the D2v output processing for the current Source.) The Setup > Video Output settings are what you use to establish the output of the D2v. The D2v does the necessary conversions between input and output. Quite well.


2) The D2v does the necessary conversions. Auto simply instructs the D2v to use what the display says is its preferred input. Often this is a "common denominator" choice made by the display. I.e., its preferred input may not actually be its BEST input. Auto also complicates the HDMI handshake. For both those reasons, explicit settings are better than Auto.


3) Yes. If you have to use RGB from a Source, your first choice should be Studio RGB (Black=16). Make the corresponding setting in Video Source Adjust for that input Source in the D2v -- i.e., while viewing that Source. You need to manually set both sides of the cable to expect the same flavor or RGB. Only use Extended RGB if you must do so to work around a bug you have found.

--Bob


----------



## gonzalc3

Bob,


Did they change the reference volume to 85 db with the new firmware (2.08n)? How do you set the dolby volume? I know there is cinema, on and off, but when I turn it to cinema it seems that the volume is lower than when is off....


Thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18603710
> 
> 
> yes, saved & restored the settings using the front panel
> 
> i was avoiding using the computer, as Bob stated, it may not be in sync with current firmware
> 
> 
> mark



FM/AM Presets are supposed to be Saved and Reloaded via User or Installer memory. If you Saved them prior to the firmware install and they didn't reappear when you did the Reload after the firmware install, then that is a bug. Please write up the details and email to Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/18605477
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Did they change the reference volume to 85 db with the new firmware (2.08n)? How do you set the dolby volume? I know there is cinema, on and off, but when I turn it to cinema it seems that the volume is lower than when is off....
> 
> 
> Thanks,



As best I can tell Dolby Volume Cinema produces 10dB higher output than either Dolby Volume OFF or Dolby Volume ON. Apparently, this is by design. If you set your levels for 75dB SPL, and leave Setup > Level Calibration > Dolby Volume Cal at the default 0dB setting, then Dolby Volume OFF and Dolby Volume ON appear to produce the same output levels.

--Bob


----------



## [email protected]




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18605099
> 
> 
> Right, yeah, of course, but if you could see how this is all set up you wouldn't think it's so easy. If I'm going to do that, I might as well remove the entire rack from the embeded wall cave it's in and that's in fact what it would take to un-do what the existing wiring setup provides and rewire the way you suggest. Again, when you buy something and within 2 months it no longer processes video output properly, for the kind of money we are spending on our Anthem gear, is unacceptable, pure and simple. I will leave it there, but don't think everyone's setup can be easily switched around at will after a permanent custom installation.
> 
> 
> -Brian



I understand and TOTALLY empathize with you dude and you are TOTALLY correct. I would think however with a permanent and CUSTOM installation some more(or a lot more) forethought would have gone into the design so that the homeowner or whomever could access the wiring and equipment a little(or a LOT)easier especially with the associated cost of this sort of install. Sometimes just a little more common sense is needed upfront to save some MAJOR headaches down the line.


----------



## lk100

I installed firmware 2.08n on my D2v. After adjusting so that Dolby Volume off/on is the same at normal volume, I watched the blu-ray movie Bad Lieutenant (via PS3) with Dolby Volume set to Cinema. I really liked the sound. For that movie I prefer Dolby Cinema to Dolby Volume off/on. It seemed much more enveloping, and the bass sounded great. The the mids didn't seem to be affected by the accentuated bass. The dialog was clear and natural sounding. I wonder if somehow this movie is coded for Dolby Volume?

One problem I noticed was when playing music off the PS3's hard drive: repeated, lengthy audio dropouts with Dolby Volume on.

Limited Cable viewing sounded good with Dolby Volume set to Cinema.

This seems to be a big improvement over 2.08h.


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18605496
> 
> 
> As best I can tell Dolby Volume Cinema produces 10dB higher output than either Dolby Volume OFF or Dolby Volume ON. Apparently, this is by design. If you set your levels for 75dB SPL, and leave Setup > Level Calibration > Dolby Volume Cal at the default 0dB setting, then Dolby Volume OFF and Dolby Volume ON appear to produce the same output levels.
> 
> --Bob




Bob,


Thanks.. Just to clarify a little bit about the 85 dbs... When we set the test level to 75 dbs, we simply had everything (levels, etc) set to zero and with the spl meter we adjusted the test level to get to that target.. At that point we had it set to -3 dbs... Now with the new firmware I am getting in the spl meter something around 85 dbs... Now with respect to the dolby volume, when I set it to cinema and at the 0db default in the level calibration it seems to be lower than off... In the setting that is below the on/off/cinema you can set it to high 9,8, etc... What level should I set it there...


Thanks,


----------



## ASW

I am connecting two Tivos (a Premier XL and an S-3) to my D2v via HDMI, and I also am hoping to distribute the Tivos through their component outputs via an AVAtrix AV distribution system. The way the Tivos work, when they sense an active HDMI connection, they turn off the component output unless there is a good handshake.


When my D2v is on and the main input is set to a Tivo, that Tivo will play through my AV distribution system fine.


When the D2v is set to a different input, the Tivo shuts the component output off, and I get a HDCP message and no picture or sound on my distributed component video.


When my D2v is off, the Tivo will play through my AV distribution system fine.


The problem seems to be that when the D2v is on but not set to the Tivo's input, the Tivo can sense it has a HDMI connection but cannot get a good handshake. I had this kind of problem early on with my D2 using component on Zone 2, and Anthem was able to fix it.


I sent Piero an email asking if this is something that can be dealt with in the D2v's firmware.


Any thoughts?


Alan


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/18608098
> 
> 
> I am connecting two Tivos (a Premier XL and an S-3) to my D2v via HDMI, and I also am hoping to distribute the Tivos through their component outputs via an AVAtrix AV distribution system. The way the Tivos work, when they sense an active HDMI connection, they turn off the component output unless there is a good handshake.
> 
> 
> When my D2v is on and the main input is set to a Tivo, that Tivo will play through my AV distribution system fine.
> 
> 
> When the D2v is set to a different input, the Tivo shuts the component output off, and I get a HDCP message and no picture or sound on my distributed component video.
> 
> 
> When my D2v is off, the Tivo will play through my AV distribution system fine.
> 
> 
> The problem seems to be that when the D2v is on but not set to the Tivo's input, the Tivo can sense it has a HDMI connection but cannot get a good handshake. I had this kind of problem early on with my D2 using component on Zone 2, and Anthem was able to fix it.
> 
> 
> I sent Piero an email asking if this is something that can be dealt with in the D2v's firmware.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Alan



Alan, interesting question, and one that made me think back to the logic I employed 4 years ago and how exactly I arrived at the installation scenario I did for the 3 active zones i'm using from my D2 and now D2V. In other words, you made me think, which I always hate to do on the weekends, but in this case I welcomed it 


So, in a nutshell, I have to ask, why the heck are you using HDMI from those wonderful Tivo's and not just high quality Component video with Optical for audio? In fact, this is exactly what I do, and then redistribute it as needed to Zones 2 and 3, totally independently of what is being viewed in Zone1. In other words, someone can watch a Bluray in Main/Zone1 while someone in Zone2 is watching cableTV thru the Series3 Tivo and zone3 is watching a channel from the DirecTV satelliteTV, etc. etc. You get the point I'm sure.


Now, if you insist on using HDMI from those Tivo's to the D2V, you're undoubtedly going to have problems, especially now that Anthem has abandoned the HDMI repeater function that used to exist prior to 1.33 of the D2 firmware. The D2 pre-1.33 used to be able to tell an HDMI source 'hell yeah you're connected to a display, go ahead and keep pumpin the TV goodness to me, cause you're talking to an end display"....and it would, it would keep talking over HDMI all day long, regardless of whether that source was actually being viewed in the Main/Zone1. Without that feature, the D2 and now D2V are essentially only listening to the HDMI source for Zone1 when it is *actually being sent to the display and viewed* in Zone1. Zones2 and 3 will be ignored because you've changed Zone1 to a different input.


Sad, and ridiculous, but true. To avoid this and not play into the sham that HDMI is, I would use Component Video and Optical digital audio. There are no cable channels broadcasting any higher than 1080i/60, so HDMI is not adding anything other than problematic HDCP "protections" and flaky, ever-changing spec to the mix....if you crave stable, consistent, high performance video, component video for any Television-based source is the most flexible choice you can make today. That may change someday, but I'm not holding my breath.


By the way, i'm curious why you are using an a/v distribution component at all...I know they exist for a reason, and maybe the 3 zones from the D2V are not enough for you, but can you provide some additional color around why the a/v distro system? Are you feeding more than 3 zones from it? If so, that's quite cool. I always like to learn why people are doing what they're doing a/v wise...curious minds wanna know 


Thanks, and hope your predicament works itself out.

-Brian


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18608799
> 
> 
> Alan, interesting question, and one that made me think back to the logic I employed 4 years ago and how exactly I arrived at the installation scenario I did for the 3 active zones i'm using from my D2 and now D2V. In other words, you made me think, which I always hate to do on the weekends, but in this case I welcomed it
> 
> 
> So, in a nutshell, I have to ask, why the heck are you using HDMI from those wonderful Tivo's and not just high quality Component video with Optical for audio? In fact, this is exactly what I do, and then redistribute it as needed to Zones 2 and 3, totally independently of what is being viewed in Zone1. In other words, someone can watch a Bluray in Main/Zone1 while someone in Zone2 is watching cableTV thru the Series3 Tivo and zone3 is watching a channel from the DirecTV satelliteTV, etc. etc. You get the point I'm sure.
> 
> 
> Now, if you insist on using HDMI from those Tivo's to the D2V, you're undoubtedly going to have problems, especially now that Anthem has abandoned the HDMI repeater function that used to exist prior to 1.33 of the D2 firmware. The D2 pre-1.33 used to be able to tell an HDMI source 'hell yeah you're connected to a display, go ahead and keep pumpin the TV goodness to me, cause you're talking to an end display"....and it would, it would keep talking over HDMI all day long, regardless of whether that source was actually being viewed in the Main/Zone1. Without that feature, the D2 and now D2V are essentially only listening to the HDMI source for Zone1 when it is *actually being sent to the display and viewed* in Zone1. Zones2 and 3 will be ignored because you've changed Zone1 to a different input.
> 
> 
> Sad, and ridiculous, but true. To avoid this and not play into the sham that HDMI is, I would use Component Video and Optical digital audio. There are no cable channels broadcasting any higher than 1080i/60, so HDMI is not adding anything other than problematic HDCP "protections" and flaky, ever-changing spec to the mix....if you crave stable, consistent, high performance video, component video for any Television-based source is the most flexible choice you can make today. That may change someday, but I'm not holding my breath.
> 
> 
> By the way, i'm curious why you are using an a/v distribution component at all...I know they exist for a reason, and maybe the 3 zones from the D2V are not enough for you, but can you provide some additional color around why the a/v distro system? Are you feeding more than 3 zones from it? If so, that's quite cool. I always like to learn why people are doing what they're doing a/v wise...curious minds wanna know
> 
> 
> Thanks, and hope your predicament works itself out.
> 
> -Brian



Thanks for the reply. First, since the Tivos do not have 2 component outputs, having HDMI and component broadcast at the same time would keep me from having to split the single component video output on each Tivo. I generally like to use HDMI when I can to keep the cable clutter down behind my rack (and, since I have a HDMI connection to my TV, using HDMI keeps the D2v from having to transcode). Interestingly, this all woud work fine if I used the D2v's zone 2 and 3 outputs (as I have for the past few years).


I am adding video distribution rather than continuing to use the D2v's zone 2 and 3, because I am distributing 6 sources to 6 different zones in my house. The Avatrix AVX-562 Http://www.audioauthority.com/page/avatrix_2_0 lets me distribute audio and video long distances over CAT 5. If this all works as planned, it will be much more flexible than the D2v's 2nd and 3rd zones, and will not require me to have redundant wiring for each zone (one real shortcoming of the D2v is that it does not transcode inputs in zone 2 and 3).


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/18609190
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. First, since the Tivos do not have 2 component outputs, having HDMI and component broadcast at the same time would keep me from having to split the single component video output on each Tivo. I generally like to use HDMI when I can to keep the cable clutter down behind my rack (and, since I have a HDMI connection to my TV, using HDMI keeps the D2v from having to transcode). Interestingly, this all woud work fine if I used the D2v's zone 2 and 3 outputs (as I have for the past few years).
> 
> 
> I am adding video distribution rather than continuing to use the D2v's zone 2 and 3, because I am distributing 6 sources to 6 different zones in my house. The Avatrix AVX-562 Http://www.audioauthority.com/page/avatrix_2_0 lets me distribute audio and video long distances over CAT 5. If this all works as planned, it will be much more flexible than the D2v's 2nd and 3rd zones, and will not require me to have redundant wiring for each zone (one real shortcoming of the D2v is that it does not transcode inputs in zone 2 and 3).



I don't understand why you would need to split the Component output of a Tivo. Having only 1 set of Component outputs is not a hindrance. The D2 and D2V are made to transcode that to HDMI for Main/Zone1.


Again, my point is you will have the same video quality with Component as with HDMI from a Tivo, and MUCH fewer connection issues, especially when dealing with multi-zone deployment. I understand wanting to reduce cable clutter, but you have a solution staring right at you that allows you to continue using HDMI ouput from the D2 to the display and also gives you infinite flexibility for other zone usage thru your video distro solution.


Just a thought.


-Brian


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18609410
> 
> 
> I don't understand why you would need to split the Component output of a Tivo. Having only 1 set of Component outputs is not a hindrance. The D2 and D2V are made to transcode that to HDMI for Main/Zone1.
> 
> 
> Again, my point is you will have the same video quality with Component as with HDMI from a Tivo, and MUCH fewer connection issues, especially when dealing with multi-zone deployment. I understand wanting to reduce cable clutter, but you have a solution staring right at you that allows you to continue using HDMI ouput from the D2 to the display and also gives you infinite flexibility for other zone usage thru your video distro solution.
> 
> 
> Just a thought.
> 
> 
> -Brian



I need 2 component outs from the Tivo because one has to go to the AVAtrix to distribute to the rest of my house and one has to go to the D2v for my main room. Since I am not using the D2v's 2nd and 3rd zone outs, I cannot use a single input. Note, the AVAtrix 562 does not have a loop that allows you to send a component's input out to another source. I guess I could use a zone out from the AVAtrix to the main in on the D2, but that is a waste of a zone out. The combination of HDMI and component really is the best solution if it is workable.


----------



## SMabille_UK

Hi,


Just received my replacement mic from Anthem and my problems are (mostly) fixed. I still have a small (3db) drop around 10Khz but that's probably room related but the huge 20Khz spike is gone.  Thanks Bob!


I also installed 2.08n and I'm now seeing the 6dB "issue" on the test level, adjusting it down seems to solves the problem. After to lower it a bit further (to -8dB) for my next round of ARC!

Not sure if it's new in 2.08n or was already present and never noticed it but if you increase test volume to +3dB you see the level marked as "THX" (and obviously something like 88dB on my SPL meter!).

I also had to adjust Dolby level to have 75dB (which I didn't in 2.08h).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SMabille_UK* /forum/post/18609916
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Just received my replacement mic from Anthem and my problems are (mostly) fixed. I still have a small (3db) drop around 10Khz but that's probably room related but the huge 20Khz spike is gone.  Thanks Bob!
> 
> 
> I also installed 2.08n and I'm now seeing the 6dB "issue" on the test level, adjusting it down seems to solves the problem. After to lower it a bit further (to -8dB) for my next round of ARC!
> 
> Not sure if it's new in 2.08n or was already present and never noticed it but if you increase test volume to +3dB you see the level marked as "THX" (and obviously something like 88dB on my SPL meter!).
> 
> I also had to adjust Dolby level to have 75dB (which I didn't in 2.08h).



That's a very interesting report on your mic! Go ahead and post your new charts when you have things set up.


The "THX" marking is something that THX requires for certification. It simply shows the setting that was used to establish the THX test results. It is irrelevant for your home setup and can just be ignored.


We're still trying to figure out what the Dolby Volume Cal level setting actually does.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/18607746
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks.. Just to clarify a little bit about the 85 dbs... When we set the test level to 75 dbs, we simply had everything (levels, etc) set to zero and with the spl meter we adjusted the test level to get to that target.. At that point we had it set to -3 dbs... Now with the new firmware I am getting in the spl meter something around 85 dbs... Now with respect to the dolby volume, when I set it to cinema and at the 0db default in the level calibration it seems to be lower than off... In the setting that is below the on/off/cinema you can set it to high 9,8, etc... What level should I set it there...
> 
> 
> Thanks,



The Leveling setting (default 9) has to do with how aggressively the volume leveling works. The setting is personal preference.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100* /forum/post/18606067
> 
> 
> I installed firmware 2.08n on my D2v. After adjusting so that Dolby Volume off/on is the same at normal volume, I watched the blu-ray movie Bad Lieutenant (via PS3) with Dolby Volume set to Cinema. I really liked the sound. For that movie I prefer Dolby Cinema to Dolby Volume off/on. It seemed much more enveloping, and the bass sounded great. The the mids didn't seem to be affected by the accentuated bass. The dialog was clear and natural sounding. I wonder if somehow this movie is coded for Dolby Volume?
> 
> One problem I noticed was when playing music off the PS3's hard drive: repeated, lengthy audio dropouts with Dolby Volume on.
> 
> Limited Cable viewing sounded good with Dolby Volume set to Cinema.
> 
> This seems to be a big improvement over 2.08h.



Does the PS3 issue ONLY happen when playing music from its hard drive? Not when playing CDs for example? If you have a repeatable case you should send the details to Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

I replaced my good old M&K 5000 Sub with a pair of Paradigm Sub1's. Here is the first ARC run. I have a couple of issues that may be mic placement related. I will run again next chance I get.


I also posted this in the Subwoofer thread with the ARC run from the M&K 5000 and a photo of the front speaker group.

 

ARC Sub1-5k-05-09-10 Page 1.pdf 80.4462890625k . file

 

ARC Sub1-5k-05-09-10 Page 2.pdf 81.712890625k . file


----------



## politby

My apologies for this noob question.


I have set my AVM50 to output 1080p50, which is clearly confirmed by my display (Samsung 50" plasma).


This appears to work fine - 1080i HDTV signals input via HDMI look fantastic. However, I also feed it a 576i signal from my kids' Wii console which is connected via component video.


This image does not fill the screen on my display. The TV reports it is being sent a 1080p signal but the image looks just as bas as it looked when I used composite video through my old Yamaha AVR.


I also tried setting the Wii to output 480p but that did not make any difference.


Is it just that the Wii simply works this way or have I missed some setting in the AVM50?


Thanks


----------



## my2cents

Please forgive me for the dumb questions







, but I don't recall these and can't find them in searches:


1. Does the Settings Backup Utility back up and restore ARC data?


2. What are the correct Serial port and Keyspan adapter settings for ARC upload?


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/18611247
> 
> 
> Please forgive me for the dumb questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I don't recall these and can't find them in searches:
> 
> 
> 1. Does the Settings Backup Utility back up and restore ARC data?
> 
> 
> 2. What are the correct Serial port and Keyspan adapter settings for ARC upload?
> 
> 
> Thanks



1. Your ARC file created when you finished your measurement is your backup. Use it to upload if need be.


2. Just plug your Keyspan in and try the upload. Generally we don't have to do anything except install the latest driver for the Keyspan.


John


----------



## thestewman

I recently reinstalled v1.47f in to my D2 and then went to adjust the speaker sound levels before reloading Arc v2.3


I was surprised to see the Noise level preset at +2.5 db and it was much to high for 75db on the RS meter.

When I went to adjust it downwards it automatically went to -6db and that is the highest it will adjust to, though it will adjust lower.


At that setting it only required +.05db for the left front to be 75 db.

Anyone know what is going on with the -6db setting being preset after attempting and adjustment ?


I also might want to try Arc v2.4 in my D2 and was wondering what the following additional programs in the folder are for.


Anthem Room Correction Setup.msi

Anthem Room Correction .exe

Setup .exe


----------



## Picasso Moon

I found something interesting tonight with 2.08n although I've confirmed it also exists with 2.08h. After doing the firmware upgrade I reloaded the settings. When I go into Level Calibration I see the test level has been reset to -2.5 dB which is where it was the last time I ran ARC. If I go in and adjust this level either up or down it immediately jumps to -5.0 dB and then refuses to go any higher. It will go lower fine but -5.0 dB is the upper limit. Reloading my settings will get it back to -2.5 dB but as soon as I touch the level adjustment it goes right back down to -5.0 dB.


If I do a factory reset and check it everything is fine. All levels are set to 0.0 as you would expect and it will let me adjust the Level Calibration up or down from there. I not sure what is going on with this.


Also, I noticed there was noticeable increase in volume when I engaged DV. I found that by going in and adjusting the DV down about 6 dB in the Level Settings -> Dolby Volume I was able to match the output level of DV on/off.

I hope Anthem writes some documentation on this soon so we can know exactly how it is suppose to work.


Since I've needed to run ARC again for a while as my current levels are 5-6 dB high I think I'll just start from scratch this weekend and do a factory reset and go from there with a clean slate.


----------



## MikeCornika

Ok, back in business, sure Bob will "deinterlace" for us.

I have tried a couple of movies with DV Cinema on, the voices are more presents vs 2.08 (installed 2.08n), but when a "boomy" scene is coming right after a dialogue, it feel like the sound is gone. I have tested with the SPL, in reality the sound is stronger or at least the same, but the ear is telling i have to increase the volume a couple of notches. I suppose the DV is enhanced to much the bass and LFE vs the midrange.

The vice versa is happing to, after a loud scene, when the dialog is starting is like a delay (more quiet at the beginning, after some time is increasing to the initial volume).

If somebody else has the same feeling?

Thanks.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18614140
> 
> 
> Ok, back in business, sure Bob will "deinterlace" for us.
> 
> I have tried a couple of movies with DV Cinema on, the voices are more presents vs 2.08 (installed 2.08n), but when a "boomy" scene is coming right after a dialogue, it feel like the sound is gone. I have tested with the SPL, in reality the sound is stronger or at least the same, but the ear is telling i have to increase the volume a couple of notches. I suppose the DV is enhanced to much the bass and LFE vs the midrange.
> 
> The vice versa is happing to, after a loud scene, when the dialog is starting is like a delay (more quiet at the beginning, after some time is increasing to the initial volume).
> 
> If somebody else has the same feeling?
> 
> Thanks.



I stopped using the DV because I could hear it working, if you have an Xbox go to your friends list and scroll through your friends every second or so, each time it beeps on another friend, the volume of the beep fades in and out for example one will sound louder than the other.


----------



## studlygoorite

I don't know if this new firmware has made my handshakes worse or not but I have had to reboot about 10 times in the last week. Mostly switching between HTPC and my Pocorn Hour C200. Even some programs on my computer like Stellarium give me a black screen when I try and open it. A reboot of the D2v fixes it every time. None of my D2v video settings are set on auto and I have tried lowering my output res to 1080i to no avail. Am I the only one having these problems?


PS: There is no problem switching between satellite dishes, still the same handshake blips though sometimes 5 to 8 seconds long.


John


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18613447
> 
> 
> 1. Your ARC file created when you finished your measurement is your backup. Use it to upload if need be.
> 
> 
> 2. Just plug your Keyspan in and try the upload. Generally we don't have to do anything except install the latest driver for the Keyspan.
> 
> 
> John



I was hoping to not have to measure again and just have my old ARC file reloaded by the backup utility. Are you saying this can't be done and I have to re-upload ARC using the ARC program?


Anyhow, when I try to run ARC 2.4 now, I have problems.


Background: My D2 firmware got the oft reported corruption (takes 2x normal to boot, menus are sluggish or hang, etc.), so I copied settings using the backup utility, flash erased the firmware, and reloaded 1.33.... all successfully, according to the screen messages. I did all this using XP Pro SP3, running on VMWare Fusion 3.02 on a Macbook Pro running OSX 10.6.3, using the Keyspan 19HS USB to Serial adapter with v.3.7.0.2 driver.


Serial port is COM3, 19200 BAUD, Data 8 bits, Parity none, 1 stop bit, Flow control none. I tried Xon/Xoff flowcontrol as has been suggested here, but no go.


When I run ARC and hit "upload", the following happens:


- ARC says: Looking for unit, then turning on unit

- D2 turns on, goes to FM station and Mutes

- ARC says" Done turning on unit

- D2 turns off

- ARC says "failed to enter debug mode" and exits upload


Anyone know what's wrong? I thought Keyspan driver, but the firmware upload went off without a hitch.


Thanks.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/18615729
> 
> 
> I was hoping to not have to measure again and just have my old ARC file reloaded by the backup utility. Are you saying this can't be done and I have to re-upload ARC using the ARC program?
> 
> 
> Anyhow, when I try to run ARC 2.4 now, I have problems.
> 
> 
> Background: My D2 firmware got the oft reported corruption (takes 2x normal to boot, menus are sluggish or hang, etc.), so I copied settings using the backup utility, flash erased the firmware, and reloaded 1.33.... all successfully, according to the screen messages. I did all this using XP Pro SP3, running on VMWare Fusion 3.02 on a Macbook Pro running OSX 10.6.3, using the Keyspan 19HS USB to Serial adapter with v.3.7.0.2 driver.
> 
> 
> Serial port is COM3, 19200 BAUD, Data 8 bits, Parity none, 1 stop bit, Flow control none. I tried Xon/Xoff flowcontrol as has been suggested here, but no go.
> 
> 
> When I run ARC and hit "upload", the following happens:
> 
> 
> - ARC says: Looking for unit, then turning on unit
> 
> - D2 turns on, goes to FM station and Mutes
> 
> - ARC says" Done turning on unit
> 
> - D2 turns off
> 
> - ARC says "failed to enter debug mode" and exits upload
> 
> 
> Anyone know what's wrong? I thought Keyspan driver, but the firmware upload went off without a hitch.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



For uploading ARC, simply take your file, created after your measurement and open it in advanced mode. Click on upload and that is it. You DON'T have to remeasure. As for the other problem, I am not familiar with using MAC OS, I am using Win Vista and Win7. I think the Keyspan has to be using COM ports

2,3,4,5 or 6 at least in windows. Someone else may be able to answer this with MAC.

John


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/18615729
> 
> 
> When I run ARC and hit "upload", the following happens:
> 
> 
> - ARC says: Looking for unit, then turning on unit
> 
> - D2 turns on, goes to FM station and Mutes
> 
> - ARC says" Done turning on unit
> 
> - D2 turns off
> 
> - ARC says "failed to enter debug mode" and exits upload
> 
> 
> Anyone know what's wrong? I thought Keyspan driver, but the firmware upload went off without a hitch.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I do not think it is the keyspan driver since if it was this the mac would never recognize the D2 at all.


Maybe your firmware upload did not go as well as indicated? Try uploading the firmware again

Maybe your version of ARC is somehow corrupt? Try downloading a new copy


I think Bob runs off a mac, but not using VM Fusionware or Parallels, believe he uses Boot Camp.


I assume it was working at some time but now doesn't which makes it tough.


----------



## thestewman

I recently reinstalled v1.47f in to my D2 and then went to adjust the speaker sound levels before reloading Arc v2.3


I hesitate to post this again but I am trying to find answers to these questions so my next Arc run is correct.


When opening the Loudspeaker level adjustments the Noise level was preset at +2.5 db and it was much to high for the 75db level on the RS meter.

When I went to adjust it downwards and selected it the setting automatically went to -6db and that is the highest it will adjust to, though I can adjust it lower.


At the -6db setting it only required +.05db for the left front to be at 75 db.


What is going on with the maximum -6db setting ?


I also want to move to Arc v2.4 in my D2 and because there is a lack of documentation can anyone tell me what the following programs in the v2.4 folder are for ?


1. Anthem Room Correction Setup.msi

2. Anthem Room Correction .exe

3. Setup .exe


Thanks for any help you can provide.


----------



## lk100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18610210
> 
> 
> Does the PS3 issue ONLY happen when playing music from its hard drive? Not when playing CDs for example? If you have a repeatable case you should send the details to Anthem tech support.
> 
> --Bob



I did some more testing with 2.08n. My observations/opinions:


Dolby Volume on/cinema works fine when playing music in stereo mode off the PS3 hard drive or from a CD (Although the sound quality is much better with Dolby Volume off). However switching the mode to AL-Music, etc. causes the drop outs in both inputs. SACDs play fine in all modes (Again, prefer Dolby Volume off).


Also i played an older DVD with DTS coding from the PS3 via HDMI and a DVD player via component and it did not sound good with Dolby Volume ON or Cinema. Seems over compressed. Also it seems that the surround speakers were inactive: only the fronts were playing. Maybe playing with the Dolby Volume settings, which are confusing (High, Low, Off, 1-9) would produce better results.


Also, for this release (2.08n), with my very limited testing, it appears that Dolby Volume might work best with good high res sound tracks such as what Blu-Ray provides. Cable does not always sound right with Dolby Volume.


Lee


----------



## veneziana

excuse my stupid question....but where can I download new firmware?

I can't find it in anthem site.

thanks

Andrea


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Guys, I have to send my D2V back to Anthem for video board replacement, they think it's a bad board causing my headaches. I of course save my User Settings on the D2V itself all the time, but how do I take an off-box backup of the config? Is there a software app that I may have missed from them that will basically suck in all the settings from the D2V currently, so I can save them for use when my D2V comes back to me from Anthem????


Thanks for the help.

Brian


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18617968
> 
> 
> Guys, I have to send my D2V back to Anthem for video board replacement, they think it's a bad board causing my headaches. I of course save my User Settings on the D2V itself all the time, but how do I take an off-box backup of the config? Is there a software app that I may have missed from them that will basically suck in all the settings from the D2V currently, so I can save them for use when my D2V comes back to me from Anthem????
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> Brian



There is a setting backup utility on the protected Anthem site. Anthem, however, has not updated it to include the newest settings such as Dolby Volume, so I'm not sure it actually works anymore. Call Anthem tech and confirm with them its' use and the password to the protected site.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18618051
> 
> 
> There is a setting backup utility on the protected Anthem site. Anthem, however, has not updated it to include the newest settings such as Dolby Volume, so I'm not sure it actually works anymore. Call Anthem tech and confirm with them its' use and the password to the protected site.



Found it I think, i have access to the beta site. There are 2 utilities in the Utilities folder...one is Settings Backupv1.03 and one is Setup Editor v2.0.2.


I assume its Settings Backup that I want? I am running straight 2.08 right now, the public version, so i don't need Dolby volume settings which aren't there anyway in 2.08.


Thanks,

Brian


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18618155
> 
> 
> Found it I think, i have access to the beta site. There are 2 utilities in the Utilities folder...one is Settings Backupv1.03 and one is Setup Editor v2.0.2.
> 
> 
> I assume its Settings Backup that I want? I am running straight 2.08 right now, the public version, so i don't need Dolby volume settings which aren't there anyway in 2.08.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brian



[/i]


If you have a D2v it's Editor 2.02.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18618171
> 
> 
> [/i]
> 
> 
> If you have a D2v it's Editor 2.02.



Excellent, thanks, got it...i'm off to UPS to ship my baby back from whence it came. Sad but true.


-brian


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veneziana* /forum/post/18617700
> 
> 
> excuse my stupid question....but where can I download new firmware?
> 
> I can't find it in anthem site.
> 
> thanks
> 
> Andrea



the official firmware is on the Anthem site. The beta firmware ie. 2.08n is on the Anthem tech page which requires a password. Email Anthem tech and ask for the password if you want to download the beta firmware.

John


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18616038
> 
> 
> For uploading ARC, simply take your file, created after your measurement and open it in advanced mode. Click on upload and that is it. You DON'T have to remeasure. As for the other problem, I am not familiar with using MAC OS, I am using Win Vista and Win7. I think the Keyspan has to be using COM ports
> 
> 2,3,4,5 or 6 at least in windows. Someone else may be able to answer this with MAC.
> 
> John



All I was doing was uploading an existing ARC parameter set. NEW INFO: I tried it with an old S-L-O-W windows laptop, and it uploaded OK.


The strange thing is the firmware upload ran fine on the Mac running Windows, but not the ARC upload.


Anthem says I need to set the serial port at 2 stop bits - again baffling, since I'd been updating firmware and running ARC on the D2 with a windows machine with 1 stop bit serial port before I got the mac.


When I have time, I'll try the 2 stop bits.


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/18616610
> 
> 
> I do not think it is the keyspan driver since if it was this the mac would never recognize the D2 at all.
> 
> 
> Maybe your firmware upload did not go as well as indicated? Try uploading the firmware again
> 
> Maybe your version of ARC is somehow corrupt? Try downloading a new copy
> 
> 
> I think Bob runs off a mac, but not using VM Fusionware or Parallels, believe he uses Boot Camp.
> 
> 
> I assume it was working at some time but now doesn't which makes it tough.



If I have to, I'll try the firmware again, but I hate to mess with it when it's working OK. I can try a fresh copy of ARC as well.


I too am running windows xp which is installed on Boot Camp. The Fusion simulated machine is using the Boot Camp build as source, not creating it's own virtual machine.


In my previous post I noted that Anthem support thinks I should set stop bits on the serial port to 2 - I've never needed that before, but it's something else to try.


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100* /forum/post/18617237
> 
> 
> I did some more testing with 2.08n. My observations/opinions:
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume on/cinema works fine when playing music in stereo mode off the PS3 hard drive or from a CD (Although the sound quality is much better with Dolby Volume off). However switching the mode to AL-Music, etc. causes the drop outs in both inputs. SACDs play fine in all modes (Again, prefer Dolby Volume off).
> 
> 
> Also i played an older DVD with DTS coding from the PS3 via HDMI and a DVD player via component and it did not sound good with Dolby Volume ON or Cinema. Seems over compressed. Also it seems that the surround speakers were inactive: only the fronts were playing. Maybe playing with the Dolby Volume settings, which are confusing (High, Low, Off, 1-9) would produce better results.
> 
> 
> Also, for this release (2.08n), with my very limited testing, it appears that Dolby Volume might work best with good high res sound tracks such as what Blu-Ray provides. Cable does not always sound right with Dolby Volume.
> 
> 
> Lee



I have tried DV Cinema and DV on with BR (X-Men Origins -Wolverine) vs Dolby Volume Off, and is not working, the bass, like I have already said, is more present like usual, but the surronds and rear backs they're powerless, inactives. When I put DV off the surrounds goes back.

Like you say, I suppose when we'll play DVD or BD concerts shall be worth to keep DV on. I'll try tomorrow.

For CD music with my player connected analogue, I prefer DV off, the sound seem more natural.

Maybe I have to rerun ARC with the new futures, if I remember we have to play with the Dolby level. I'll try this weekend.

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This is yet another "post and run" as I'm too busy to post much right now: I'm working an issue with Anthem where V2.08n results in inexplicable muting of BOTH Component video and Optical audio from my Comcast HD/DVR. It sometimes happens on power up, but most commonly happens when I switch Sources to the Comcast. I had no such problem with V2.08h.


I've had multiple instances of this, although I've found no way to make it fail reliably. And so far it appears that a power cycle is required to cure this when it happens.


Now I also have an (unused) HDMI connection from the Comcast, and Nick has asked me to disconnect that to see if it improves things. After one day of testing with it disconnected I've had no failure cases, but it will take a few more days to figure out if this is real or not. Then I'll need to connect it back up again to see if the problem returns.


I see we've had a few posts here of folks losing Source input with V2.08n. If you are using non-HDMI input, but also have HDMI connected, this may be relevant.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

This disc is spec'ed as a 7.1 output, however, playing this on either my OppO BDP-83 or the Sony 7000 changers, the Anthem D2v will only see the core 5.1. However it jumps around alot and when in pause change to 7.1 then back to DTS Neo 6 when play resumes. The D2v will see 7.1 on other discs. Can anyone else duplicate this or supply any info?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18627173
> 
> 
> This disc is spec'ed as a 7.1 output, however, playing this on either my OppO BDP-83 or the Sony 7000 changers, the Anthem D2v will only see the core 5.1. However it jumps around alot and when in pause change to 7.1 then back to DTS Neo 6 when play resumes. The D2v will see 7.1 on other discs. Can anyone else duplicate this or supply any info?



If this is a DTS-MA 7.1 disc it is an ongoing problem but no one is taking responsibility for the fact sometimes it shows this on the oppo and not on the D2v or oppo doesn't show it etc. Everyone is frustrated with DTS for a very funky codec. Just ask Bob and Nick at anthem and whomever at Oppo, I have.

John


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18627415
> 
> 
> If this is a DTS-MA 7.1 disc it is an ongoing problem but no one is taking responsibility for the fact sometimes it shows this on the oppo and not on the D2v or oppo doesn't show it etc. Everyone is frustrated with DTS for a very funky codec. Just ask Bob and Nick at anthem and whomever at Oppo, I have.
> 
> John



With DTS-MA apparently becoming the output of choice by the studios, that's pretty scary!


----------



## politby

I have a question about how the AVM50 handles LPCM audio. My main source of audio and video is an HTPC with an ATI graphics card.


The ATI device is set to a 5.1 speaker configuration and it will always send a 5.1 signal on its HDMI port. If the source material is stereo, all channels except front L/R are silent but they are still present.


My AVM50 seems unable to understand that it is in fact receiving a 2 channel signal so it will apply whatever processing is set for 5.1 input.


It will also not allow me to set any of the 2 channel processing modes.


My Yamaha AVR that I had before the Anthem did not act this way, it would always let me set it to "stereo".


This is not a big deal but I am not sure if I should think of this as an Anthem problem or an ATI problem.


Any thoughts?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18627605
> 
> 
> With DTS-MA apparently becoming the output of choice by the studios, that's pretty scary!



TrueHD has its own problems just ask oppo about Star Trek 2009 and the problems with bitstreaming. When they stick to 5.1 things seems to settle down, it's when they do 6.1 or 7.1 that it gets interesting









John


----------



## Kensmith48

I think my D2 hit the dust. I had my JVC proj. out for repair so I unplugged everything for approx. 2 weeks. I got the proj. back yesterday plugged the D2 back in and I immediately got a strange static noise from all speakers (sounds like signals from space).I use hdmi for video (3 sources). I'm not getting video input to the proj. on any of them. I decided to bypass the D2 and go directly to the proj. from a dvd player and I get video so it has to be a problem with the D2. Any thoughts or is the D2 in need of repair?

Ken


----------



## mikefl52

Ouch!!


I assume that you can see nothing. Have you tried all analog (stereo audio, component video in and out). This might allow you to at least do a firmware reload? I think Anthem will probably suggest that you try and do a firmware reload anyway before sending it in for repair.


----------



## BillW

If the front display works I too would attempt to reload the factory defaults. If that doesn't help then I would call Anthem Tech Support.


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks for the advice.

For some strange reason all of the static in the audio has cleared up overnight. Maybe yesterdays rain storm had something to do with it. I forgot to add that using hdmi I get audio but no video. The proj. display reads no input though.

I'll try a reload sometime today.

Ken


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18631578
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice.
> 
> For some strange reason all of the static in the audio has cleared up overnight. Maybe yesterdays rain storm had something to do with it.
> 
> Ken



Yes the Anthem is NOT RATED at any water depth


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I just went through a third of the ARC links on the 1st page of this thread and couldn't find the info I am looking for.

I would like to have an extensive explanation of the whole Target page in ARC.

All the values, scopes, check boxes. Why does ARC sets these values and why do I have access to them? What can I modify and what not and why? What does it do? In short, everything.

Is this info in one of those links or is Bob coming to my rescue once again?


Thank you


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18631591
> 
> 
> Yes the Anthem is NOT RATED at any water depth



LOL, That's the only thing I could think of other than having a splitter on each of the FL/FR to handle the speaker + lfe subs on Def Tech. towers. It didn't make any difference with my ARC measurements so I got rid of the splitter.

There was quite alot of thunder+ lightning. My Panamax shut things down twice due to unsafe voltage.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18632869
> 
> 
> LOL, That's the only thing I could think of other than having a splitter on each of the FL/FR to handle the speaker + lfe subs on Def Tech. towers. It didn't make any difference with my ARC measurements so I got rid of the splitter.
> 
> There was quite alot of thunder+ lightning. My Panamax shut things down twice due to unsafe voltage.



I'm glad it is back working again.


My whole theater system is ISOLATED from the Power Grid when NOT in Use.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18633443
> 
> 
> My whole theater system is ISOLATED from the Power Grid when NOT in Use.



But it's always in use........ just joking!


----------



## Kensmith48

So far the only thing working is the audio. I just finished reloading V. 1.33 into the D2 in hopes of getting video back. Everytime I do an upgrade I have to take the D2 out of my rack, carry it upstairs and connect it to my desktop. Time to connect it back into the system and hope for the best.


Ken


----------



## Kensmith48

I got everything back in order and still nothing. Proj. says no input. I can't even get the OSD to appear except in the front panel. I also tried #7 to see if I could display the video settings and that was also a no go.

Anthem tech support said I might want to try V 1.47f but I doubt that would work since I can't even get the OSD to appear.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18634398
> 
> 
> I got everything back in order and still nothing. Proj. says no input. I can't even get the OSD to appear except in the front panel. I also tried #7 to see if I could display the video settings and that was also a no go.
> 
> Anthem tech support said I might want to try V 1.47f but I doubt that would work since I can't even get the OSD to appear.



You never know









John


----------



## barrygordon

Will the anthem 50v handle the HD (True HD, DTS MA, etc) bitstreams converted to LPCM streams? This seems to be the only way to get these streams from an XBMC


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18634740
> 
> 
> You never know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I know now; V.1.47f didn't do a thing except now I lost what audio I had. Still no osd being output to the proj. and the status on the Anthem says no video output. I tried using the flash eraser and I couldn't get that to work either. The Baud rate is 19,200 I wasn't sure where to look for the stop bits, flow, parity, and data 8 bits. I'm using the 232 serial cable with no adapters. Both the 1.33 & 1.47 downloads said successful.

Go figure

Ken


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/18634746
> 
> 
> Will the anthem 50v handle the HD (True HD, DTS MA, etc) bitstreams converted to LPCM streams? This seems to be the only way to get these streams from an XBMC



I don't see why it could not. LPCM can be accepted even by the older AVM50


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18635150
> 
> 
> I know now; V.1.47f didn't do a thing except now I lost what audio I had. Still no osd being output to the proj. and the status on the Anthem says no video output. I tried using the flash eraser and I couldn't get that to work either. The Baud rate is 19,200 I wasn't sure where to look for the stop bits, flow, parity, and data 8 bits. I'm using the 232 serial cable with no adapters. Both the 1.33 & 1.47 downloads said successful.
> 
> Go figure
> 
> Ken



What a pain. Hopefully you can get this resolved without sending it in. You could be farther away like California or Florida but Michigan isn't too bad.

John


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18631297
> 
> 
> I think my D2 hit the dust. I had my JVC proj. out for repair so I unplugged everything for approx. 2 weeks. I got the proj. back yesterday plugged the D2 back in and I immediately got a strange static noise from all speakers (sounds like signals from space).I use hdmi for video (3 sources). I'm not getting video input to the proj. on any of them. I decided to bypass the D2 and go directly to the proj. from a dvd player and I get video so it has to be a problem with the D2. Any thoughts or is the D2 in need of repair?
> 
> Ken



I seem to remember a problem some have experienced when completely unplugging their D2s from wall power for weeks. The D2 can lose all or many settings. Firmware reload usually fixes it (which I see you have tried).


I had something like this happen, it freaked me out. I might have had to resort to the flash eraser and reloading firmware. Everything is fine now.


With no video, maybe your video board took this moment to expire.


I'd keep working it with Anthem tech support. Good luck.


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/18517074
> 
> 
> Copy from Main is exactly that, whatever is playing on main will play on the zones an this is the only way to have digital sources going to the zones.
> 
> 
> To be honest in my opinion the best way to supply zones is by feeding the source as a digital signal for the mains and duplicating the input as analog for the zones. Since most sources have both digital and analog outputs it is just a matter of running the extra RCA cables and setting up the inputs on the Anthem correctly. This way you can have different inputs gong to the main and zones.
> 
> 
> My only component with added complexity is my Mac Mini since it uses the same socket for digital and analog outputs. For this I use the digital signal into a optical splitter then feed one leg directly into the Anthem preserving the digital signal (PCM, DTS, DD, etc). The other leg goes throu a DAC and feeds the Anthem via an alaog input.
> 
> 
> Also if you use Copy from Main and it happens to be a multi-channel signal that you actually want to play on main it will not do it without first switching off the Copy from Main. It plays a down converted two channel signal.



Am I clear that if you Copy from Main you can only get 2 Channel in your main listening area too?


----------



## Kensmith48

I did the flash eraser and re-loaded v 1.47f. Andrew at Anthem, said they tested it and it should work with all D2's. I still can't get the osd or any other input to work. On the front panel Status it reads "video input- no signal" and "digital-no signal", "input format-blank". No audio either. I think the next step is to call Andrew on Monday and get a RA # for sending it in. Andrew said if flash eraser didn't do something with a re-load of 1.47 then that would probably be the next step.

Maybe this is a good time to upgrade!


Ken


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18638127
> 
> 
> I did the flash eraser and re-loaded v 1.47f. Andrew at Anthem, said they tested it and it should work with all D2's. I still can't get the osd or any other input to work. On the front panel Status it reads "video input- no signal" and "digital-no signal", "input format-blank". No audio either. I think the next step is to call Andrew on Monday and get a RA # for sending it in. Andrew said if flash eraser didn't do something with a re-load of 1.47 then that would probably be the next step.
> 
> Maybe this is a good time to upgrade!
> 
> 
> Ken



Did you try the Flash Eraser and 1.33?


I'm still running 1.33 and all is well.


Usually once you loose the OSD - it is back to Anthem for repair.


----------



## Bill Mac

Is there any more information on the upcoming receivers from Anthem? I found this blurb but it does not reveal that much. I wonder if the receivers will have a less complex version of ARC?

_The line will feature four models, but only two of them will be showcased at CEA Line Show. The first two models being launched are the MRX 500 and MRX 700. Both will feature HDMI 1.4 with 3D support, as well as Audio Return Channel. The entire line will be equipped with Anthem's award-winning Room Correction system._


Bill


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill Mac* /forum/post/18639098
> 
> 
> Is there any more information on the upcoming receivers from Anthem? I found this blurb but it does not reveal that much. I wonder if the receivers will have a less complex version of ARC?
> 
> _The line will feature four models, but only two of them will be showcased at CEA Line Show. The first two models being launched are the MRX 500 and MRX 700. Both will feature HDMI 1.4 with 3D support, as well as Audio Return Channel. The entire line will be equipped with Anthem’s award-winning Room Correction system._
> 
> 
> 
> Bill



the ARC version in the receivers will have fewer filters due to the lack of processing in their DSPs power compared to the AVM50v and D2v. There will be internet radio and decoding of all auido codecs ie. TrueHD, DTS-MA.

John


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18639225
> 
> 
> the ARC version in the receivers will have fewer filters due to the lack of processing in their DSPs power compared to the AVM50v and D2v. There will be internet radio and decoding of all auido codecs ie. TrueHD, DTS-MA.



Seems odd to trade off performance in favor of features. Why not skip the HD decoding and use that 100 MIPs for full spec ARC? Then there'd be no compromise--except in not supporting very cheap BD players.


----------



## Bill Mac




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18639225
> 
> 
> the ARC version in the receivers will have fewer filters due to the lack of processing in their DSPs power compared to the AVM50v and D2v. There will be internet radio and decoding of all auido codecs ie. TrueHD, DTS-MA.
> 
> John



John,


Thanks for the information







. I had an AVM30 which I enjoyed very much but just had to have room correction, HDMI 1.3 and HBR audio







. I found the service from Anthem to be excellent. The manual for the AVM30 was about the best I have ever seen for a prepro/AVR. Are there any pictures of the upcoming receivers?


Bill


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/18639442
> 
> 
> Seems odd to trade off performance in favor of features. Why not skip the HD decoding and use that 100 MIPs for full spec ARC? Then there'd be no compromise--except in not supporting very cheap BD players.



Marketing no doubt. Look at all the flavors of Audyssey. Receivers are all about the tick sheet if HD decoding wasn't on there most people wouldn't give it a seconds glance. And lets be real here Anthem isn't going to undercut their Pre/Pro line by coming out with a receiver that is 95% of a AV50v/D2v with added features and at a fraction of the cost. I'm quite surprised they are focused on these receivers with advanced features before moving the tech to the Pre/Pros.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The V2.08n problem I'm working with Anthem where Component video (and Optical Audio) input sometimes gets incorrectly muted when powering up or switching to my Comcast HD/DVR Source appears to be a regression to the problem we experienced in some of the Beta firmware versions following V2.07.


It is *NOT* cured simply by disconnecting the (unused) HDMI feed wire from the Comcast box.


What's actually happening is that *ALL* analog video input to the scaler is being incorrectly muted. This includes, for example, the Setup menu -- which is an internally generated S-Video Source.


What's new this time is that the Optical Digital audio input is also muted. (By Muted here, I mean the status displays show the correct values for the input, but the audio is silent and the screen is black -- the input is muted rather than the output as the OSD displays continue to show just fine.)


The video processor is not crashed as HDMI video inputs continue to work just fine.


The big difference between the audio and the video is that simply interrupting the audio stream (e.g., changing channels) is enough to get the audio back.


But so far I've found no way to get analog video input to the scaler (i.e., Component or S-video) to work again short of power cycling the processor.


Anthem has been notified of these new findings.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/18638073
> 
> 
> I seem to remember a problem some have experienced when completely unplugging their D2s from wall power for weeks. The D2 can lose all or many settings. Firmware reload usually fixes it (which I see you have tried).
> 
> 
> I had something like this happen, it freaked me out. I might have had to resort to the flash eraser and reloading firmware. Everything is fine now.
> 
> 
> With no video, maybe your video board took this moment to expire.
> 
> 
> I'd keep working it with Anthem tech support. Good luck.



That problem was not due to being disconnected from wall power for an extended period.


Rather, the problem was due to sudden loss of wall power which caused OTHER devices (typically power amps) to send a surge of voltage back into the D2.


What happens inside the D2 in such cases is not permanent. Reloading the firmware cures it.

--Bob


----------



## 13ege

I'm decided to focus my upgrade to stereo section and buy an integrated amp, probably a mcintosh ma7000 and paradigm s8s for fronts. First, I planned to buy d2v,p2 and a5 for both movies and stereo but later I thought that waiting for a new Anthem d2v with 1.4 hdmi would be better for me, because in Turkey, selling such expensive products like d2v causes a lot of loss and once the new d2v comes out, I won't be able to change my old one. I will now change my studio100s and add a stereo amp and continue to use my existing onkyo 3007(or may be I can change it with a Denon 5308) until new d2v comes, and also there are a lot of differences between d2v+p2 in stereo and ma7000, mac is far superior than anthems. Do you guys think this decision is reasonable?


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/18638116
> 
> 
> Am I clear that if you Copy from Main you can only get 2 Channel in your main listening area too?



The reason that I'm asking is that I'm about to buy this unit and I need to know if I need analog connections for Zone 2 from all my sources. It would be nice if I could take those out of the clutter.


----------



## husker du

Here's a picture of one of the Anthem Receivers.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18640029
> 
> 
> The V2.08n problem I'm working with Anthem where Component video (and Optical Audio) input sometimes gets incorrectly muted when powering up or switching to my Comcast HD/DVR Source appears to be a regression to the problem we experienced in some of the Beta firmware versions following V2.07.
> 
> 
> It is *NOT* cured simply by disconnecting the (unused) HDMI feed wire from the Comcast box.
> 
> 
> What's actually happening is that *ALL* analog video input to the scaler is being incorrectly muted. This includes, for example, the Setup menu -- which is an internally generated S-Video Source.
> 
> 
> What's new this time is that the Optical Digital audio input is also muted. (By Muted here, I mean the status displays show the correct values for the input, but the audio is silent and the screen is black -- the input is muted rather than the output as the OSD displays continue to show just fine.)
> 
> 
> The video processor is not crashed as HDMI video inputs continue to work just fine.
> 
> 
> The big difference between the audio and the video is that simply interrupting the audio stream (e.g., changing channels) is enough to get the audio back.
> 
> 
> But so far I've found no way to get analog video input to the scaler (i.e., Component or S-video) to work again short of power cycling the processor.
> 
> 
> Anthem has been notified of these new findings.
> 
> --Bob



I have been losing the on-screen setup menu after an hour or two of viewing a HDMI source. I also lose any s-video input and now component video. I note the same thing as the input reads 480i or whatever, but the screen is black. A remote power down and back up restores everything. However, this has been a problem I experienced to some degree or another in the D2 and now the D2v.


Wake up ANTHEM and get your priorities straight...FIX IT!!!!!!!!!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18639631
> 
> 
> Marketing no doubt. Look at all the flavors of Audyssey. Receivers are all about the tick sheet if HD decoding wasn't on there most people wouldn't give it a seconds glance. And lets be real here Anthem isn't going to undercut their Pre/Pro line by coming out with a receiver that is 95% of a AV50v/D2v with added features and at a fraction of the cost. I'm quite surprised they are focused on these receivers with advanced features before moving the tech to the Pre/Pros.



I think you hit the nail on the head







I for one would be annoyed if my D2v could be matched with a $2000 receiver with respect to ARC. Not to mention the cost of one DSP board for my AVM50 at $400. This processing power is a major cost in our units. I have heard the many flavours of Audessey in a number of setups and have not been impressed. I have been assured the ARC versions in the receivers will be better. Time will tell.

John


----------



## J. FRICANO

Hello All,

Recently received a new pair of Paradigm ADP3 surrounds to complete my Sig6, C3, REL Stadium sub system. Ran in with FM Station hiss for 24 hrs per Bob's suggestion and then ran ARC v2.4. The target page showed 0.000 room gain for movies and .337 for music with only the center off on music settings. This is a 5.1 set up using a D2 with v1.33 firmware. I changed the gain to 2.5(movie) and 2.1 (music) and used 10K as max eq.Any thoughts as to why no gain? Do I need to re-measure? What is the best configuration pattern for the 5 positions? Thank you for your time and consideration, John.

 

Doc1.doc 96.5k . file

 

Doc2.doc 92k . file

 

Doc3.doc 97.5k . file


----------



## obie_fl

You are likely not getting any room gain due to the huge room suck out at 55/60hz on your mains and center. Try moving those speakers a bit if you have any flexibility. You have a nasty drop at 200hz on your left surround too.


----------



## J. FRICANO

I recently moved the primary seat closer to the front to increase the distance from the backwall to the seating position. Maybe I should move it back. There is no wiggle room to move the center Or the wall mounted surrounds. The current distance is about 3 feet from the wall. What do you think? Thanks, John


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Sorry I am bumping this one again. Maybe Bob could help on this one.

I just went through most of the ARC links on the 1st page of this thread and couldn't find the info I am looking for.

I would like to have an extensive explanation of the whole Target page in ARC.

All the values, scopes, check boxes. Why does ARC sets these values and why do I have access to them? What can I modify and what not and why? What does it do? In short, everything.


Thank you


----------



## obie_fl

ARC sets the values based on the response of your speakers in your room. The targets are the lowest frequencies in which ARC thinks your speakers are capable of in your room. This is basically the frequency where ARC will usually cross over your speakers to your subwoofer. Technically speaking the values are the lowest frequency which ARC tries to correct. Full range means no signal will be sent to the subwoofer if checked.


Room Gain is ARCs way of retaining your room response. It usually correlates to the hump you will often see that begins around 200-400 hertz on down. Totally flat can sound... well flat, lifeless the higher the number the bigger the hump.


Max EQ is exactly what it sounds, like the highest frequency ARC will correct.


Oh and if you really don't understand what ARC is doing it is probably best to leave it alone. Those adjustments are for advanced use. ARC usually gets it right by itself.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18642196
> 
> 
> ARC sets the values based on the response of your speakers in your room. The targets are the lowest frequencies in which ARC thinks your speakers are capable of in your room. This is basically the frequency where ARC will usually cross over your speakers to your subwoofer. Technically speaking the values are the lowest frequency which ARC tries to correct. Full range means no signal will be sent to the subwoofer if checked.
> 
> 
> Room Gain is ARCs way of retaining your room response. It usually correlates to the hump you will often see that begins around 200-400 hertz on down. Totally flat can sound... well flat, lifeless the higher the number the bigger the hump.
> 
> 
> Max EQ is exactly what it sounds, like the highest frequency ARC will correct.
> 
> 
> Oh and if you really don't understand what ARC is doing it is probably best to leave it alone. Those adjustments are for advanced use. ARC usually gets it right by itself.



Hi,


Well, something doesn't make sense then.

Because for example in my targets all my speakers are set to 60 except for my sub which is set at 85 (85!).

Even though I can clearly see that ARC is still correcting way beyond those limits.

I mean of course it does. What's ARC worth if it limits its correction for my sub to 85hZ?

Are you sure about what you are writing?

Or did I misunderstand you?


Thanks


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/18640472
> 
> 
> The reason that I'm asking is that I'm about to buy this unit and I need to know if I need analog connections for Zone 2 from all my sources. It would be nice if I could take those out of the clutter.



Yes you get only stereo on the mains. So yes you really need the analog connections for your zones.


----------



## hewlett

I recently bought the AVM 50 v (now 2.08n) which I'd heavily researched and the BLX 200 BluRay player purely on Anthem reputation. Like others I keep getting noises when switching chapters or tracks and occassionally get nasty noises when the disc is loading. I've done the AVM 50 updates to get the latest in Dolby Volume but the issue is with the BLX200. I tried a Sony BluRay player yesterday and no noises. Anyone else have the same processor/bluray player and similar experience? Piero at Anthem has been very receptive to comments and believably says that Anthem is diligently trying to get to the bottom of the problem. I think I'm going to give up on the Anthem BluRay player and just get the Oppo bdp-83 that I was originally going to buy. Not sure what my dealer will do about the BluRay player but it's clearly got design problems. I've replaced one already.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18642241
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Well, something doesn't make sense then.
> 
> Because for example in my targets all my speakers are set to 60 except for my sub which is set at 85 (85!).
> 
> Even though I can clearly see that ARC is still correcting way beyond those limits.
> 
> I mean of course it does. What's ARC worth if it limits its correction for my sub to 85hZ?
> 
> Are you sure about what you are writing?
> 
> Or did I misunderstand you?
> 
> 
> Thanks



For the sub it is everything *below* 85hz, which makes sense as long as all your other speaker targets are below 85hz.


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/18642418
> 
> 
> Yes you get only stereo on the mains. So yes you really need the analog connections for your zones.



Thanks. I was hoping I was wrong....


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18640038
> 
> 
> That problem was not due to being disconnected from wall power for an extended period.
> 
> 
> Rather, the problem was due to sudden loss of wall power which caused OTHER devices (typically power amps) to send a surge of voltage back into the D2.
> 
> 
> What happens inside the D2 in such cases is not permanent. Reloading the firmware cures it.
> 
> --Bob



I just went through a similar issue with my D2, only it seems that a connected component that locked up, got shut down, and restarted corrupted the D2. However, this happened without loss of wall power.


Anyway, flash erase and redo v1.33 did the trick. Still not ready to try v1.47x because you can't go back if it doesn't work out.


BTW, I discovered why my Keyspan USB adapter didn't work properly with my MAC. There's a setting change you must make from Interrupt to Bulk (Performance) - this when running VMWare Fusion XP from your Bootcamp partition on your Mac. Don't know why it works, but I ran across the recommendation on the Fusion forum. Incidently, even though Anthem recommends setting your Windows COM to 2 stop bits, 1 stop bit always seems to work fine. Again, don't know why one way or another.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18642798
> 
> 
> For the sub it is everything *below* 85hz, which makes sense as long as all your other speaker targets are below 85hz.



Aaaah, now it's clearer.

Thank you for explaining.


----------



## Kensmith48

My 2 cents,

I've been e-mailing Andrew at Anthem and he told me that it's no longer 1.47x. It's now 1.47f and he says it should would work with the black boards as well as the red ones. I don't think it's posted on their website though. He gave me a password to get to it.

Ken


----------



## ccotenj

is there a post on this thread that describes the differences between the d2 and the d2v? i read the first post, but couldn't seem to find anything....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18644499
> 
> 
> My 2 cents,
> 
> I've been e-mailing Andrew at Anthem and he told me that it's no longer 1.47x. It's now 1.47f and he says it should would work with the black boards as well as the red ones. I don't think it's posted on their website though. He gave me a password to get to it.
> 
> Ken



It never was V1.47x. The x is just a placeholder as in V1.47x = V1.47a, V1.47b, V1.47c, .... typically used when we have no idea when they'll stop putting out Beta releases and make one official.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccotenj* /forum/post/18644538
> 
> 
> is there a post on this thread that describes the differences between the d2 and the d2v? i read the first post, but couldn't seem to find anything....



You can get a pretty good handle on it by looking at Anthem's own comparison chart available here:

http://www.anthemav.com/download/ant...-2v/literature 


Although they no longer include a column for the D2, the comparison between the D2v and the original AVM 50 will cover the most important ground as, for example, the video board and HDMI was identical in the D2 and AVM 50.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I'm sure there is a post by Bob of the differences some where buried in this thread. Off the top my head.


New video processor with 8 HDMI inputs and 2 HDMI outputs vs 4-1.

New DSPs that support 7.1 HDMI LPCM input vs. 5.1 on the D2.

HDMI Bitstream input of TrueHD and DTS-HD MA.


There may be others I'm forgetting but those are the biggies.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/18643144
> 
> 
> I just went through a similar issue with my D2, only it seems that a connected component that locked up, got shut down, and restarted corrupted the D2. However, this happened without loss of wall power.
> 
> 
> Anyway, flash erase and redo v1.33 did the trick. Still not ready to try v1.47x because you can't go back if it doesn't work out.
> 
> 
> BTW, I discovered why my Keyspan USB adapter didn't work properly with my MAC. There's a setting change you must make from Interrupt to Bulk (Performance) - this when running VMWare Fusion XP from your Bootcamp partition on your Mac. Don't know why it works, but I ran across the recommendation on the Fusion forum. Incidently, even though Anthem recommends setting your Windows COM to 2 stop bits, 1 stop bit always seems to work fine. Again, don't know why one way or another.



Not sure what you mean by " Still not ready to try v1.47x because you can't go back if it doesn't work out." You can do a roll back of firmware on the Anthems. Many people have done it.

John


----------



## ccotenj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18644652
> 
> 
> You can get a pretty good handle on it by looking at Anthem's own comparison chart available here:
> 
> http://www.anthemav.com/download/ant...-2v/literature
> 
> 
> Although they no longer include a column for the D2, the comparison between the D2v and the original AVM 50 will cover the most important ground as, for example, the video board and HDMI was identical in the D2 and AVM 50.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18644726
> 
> 
> I'm sure there is a post by Bob of the differences some where buried in this thread. Off the top my head.
> 
> 
> New video processor with 8 HDMI inputs and 2 HDMI outputs vs 4-1.
> 
> New DSPs that support 7.1 HDMI LPCM input vs. 5.1 on the D2.
> 
> HDMI Bitstream input of TrueHD and DTS-HD MA.
> 
> 
> There may be others I'm forgetting but those are the biggies.



thanks guys...


----------



## Kensmith48

Sent my D2 in for repair today. I thought the repair center was in Canada. I had to send it to NY so the shipping to get there is only 2 days. Hopefully I'll have it back by Monday.

I thought about upgrading but Andrew said it would have to be repaired first, so I think that expensive option is out.

The latest v. for the D2 that showed up after the upgrade read: 1.47f.

Ken


----------



## netroamer

Has anyone any first hand knowledge if Anthem is working on an upgrade to ARC to include some form of "Analysis" mode to sweep and review an individual speakers' response instead of a full ARC sweep?


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18645971
> 
> 
> Sent my D2 in for repair today. I thought the repair center was in Canada. I had to send it to NY so the shipping to get there is only 2 days. Hopefully I'll have it back by Monday.
> 
> I thought about upgrading but Andrew said it would have to be repaired first, so I think that expensive option is out.
> 
> The latest v. for the D2 that showed up after the upgrade read: 1.47f.
> 
> Ken



Ken, courage and faith my friend - I'm in the same boat right now. My D2V is the Anthem shop right now as well, getting a new video board, DSP board programming and new "caps" on the motherboard. My D2V was brand new in November 2009, so only 4 months later, the video board was totally flaky on it.


Here's to hoping that you and I end up satisfied with our refurb'd products having a new lease on life! Hoping I get mine back by end of this week, we'll see. It is not easy going without the central brains of a 3 zone audio/video environment. I hold out hope that the equipment will be better than ever, or at least MUCH more stable.


Cheers!

-Brian


----------



## JimmyTango




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18645971
> 
> 
> Sent my D2 in for repair today. I thought the repair center was in Canada. I had to send it to NY so the shipping to get there is only 2 days. Hopefully I'll have it back by Monday.
> 
> I thought about upgrading but Andrew said it would have to be repaired first, so I think that expensive option is out.
> 
> The latest v. for the D2 that showed up after the upgrade read: 1.47f.
> 
> Ken



It is going to Canada. The truck it over the border from NY.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimmyTango* /forum/post/18646663
> 
> 
> It is going to Canada. The truck it over the border from NY.



They repair it just outside of Toronto in the Paradigm/Anthem factory.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18646134
> 
> 
> Has anyone any first hand knowledge if Anthem is working on an upgrade to ARC to include some form of "Analysis" mode to sweep and review an individual speakers' response instead of a full ARC sweep?



Anthem has been asked this many times but it is not a priority at this time at least whenever I ask Nick about it.









John


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18646824
> 
> 
> Anthem has been asked this many times but it is not a priority at this time at least whenever I ask Nick about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Thanks, John. As I stated in an earlier post, I believe Anthem should reorder their priorities regarding unsolved and prolonged processor issues in addition to making ARC a truly useful tool.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18647029
> 
> 
> Thanks, John. As I stated in an earlier post, I believe Anthem should reorder their priorities regarding unsolved and prolonged processor issues in addition to making ARC a truly useful tool.



For sub, FR/FL I have used set ARC to measure in a 2.1 config or 2.0 for Fronts only and this speeds up the testing process when moving speakers to get the best curves. I know this doesn't help with sides and back speakers but for what I described above, it has helped.

John


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18646816
> 
> 
> They repair it just outside of Toronto in the Paradigm/Anthem factory.
> 
> John



How far is Anthem from Toronto


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/18647676
> 
> 
> How far is Anthem from Toronto



Mississauga







My home town









John


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/18647676
> 
> 
> How far is Anthem from Toronto



You can get to downtown Toronto in about 25 minutes with no traffic.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/18648014
> 
> 
> You can get to downtown Toronto in about 25 minutes with no traffic.



I've done it in less time, hope you're not a cop









John


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18648190
> 
> 
> I've done it in less time, hope you're not a cop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I was being conservative. Used to work just up the road from the factory.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18647448
> 
> 
> For sub, FR/FL I have used set ARC to measure in a 2.1 config or 2.0 for Fronts only and this speeds up the testing process when moving speakers to get the best curves. I know this doesn't help with sides and back speakers but for what I described above, it has helped.
> 
> John



Actually I have decided to try my using my Audio Control SA-3050 RTA and fool ARC by starting the program and burying the mic so it faults out. After a few passes I think I will have a clean Chart from the RTA and its' mic to analyze the raw output. I would rather use the ARC sweeps instead of a the RTA pink noise generator to more closely match the ARC chart before I attempt any changes.


----------



## gbhodge

Hello all. First, thanks for the great discussions on this forum. I wanted a Halo C3 preamp, but they stopped r&d. I am looking at the Anthem AVM50v or D2v. Thanks to the first post on this topic, I understand the internal differences.


I am trying to make a sound decision that I will be happy with. I have Martin Logan Vantage front speakers, Martin Logan Cinema i center channel, Martin Logan Frescos for the rear. My amp is the Halo A51. I have Panamax filtering and surge protection equipment.


For $2,300 or so, am I going to hear the difference in the AVM50v and D2v with my system. Or is that too subjective of a question?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18650388
> 
> 
> Hello all. First, thanks for the great discussions on this forum. I wanted a Halo C3 preamp, but they stopped r&d. I am looking at the Anthem AVM50v or D2v. Thanks to the first post on this topic, I understand the internal differences.
> 
> 
> I am trying to make a sound decision that I will be happy with. I have Martin Logan Vantage front speakers, Martin Logan Cinema i center channel, Martin Logan Frescos for the rear. My amp is the Halo A51. I have Panamax filtering and surge protection equipment.
> 
> 
> For $2,300 or so, am I going to hear the difference in the AVM50v and D2v with my system. Or is that too subjective of a question?




I think you would hear a difference. You have a pretty nice setup. Only you could say if it's a $2,300 difference.


----------



## esander3

I think that is too difficult for anyone to realistically answer...


I can tell you that I have an Anthem AVM-50 with ARC and do not think that I would benefit from the D2. I already have ARC, which is quite valuable for multi-surround systems.


That being said, I have an outboard DAC and a Control Amp with a HT Bypass function and do not use my Anthem for 2 channel music. I do not believe that any of the Anthem products can compete with a dedicated 2 channel analogue system if you have an analogue signal to supply it and do not need bass management.


I have seen little difference between the AVM-50 and D2 for multi-channel movie music and do not use my AVM-50 in 2 channel mode, where the D2 may likely be a little better.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Since the AVM 50v and the D2v first shipped, I believe we've only had TWO posters here who had both of them long enough to set each up correctly and make a useful comparison. In both cases they were folks who bought an AVM 50v, set it up, then got their hands on a D2v and decided the D2v sounded better enough that they unloaded the AVM 50v and kept the D2v.


In my case I went from a D2 to a D2v and was pleasantly surprised that I was easily able to hear audio improvement, as I wasn't really expecting much audio difference between them


My advice is that if you can afford the D2v, then that's the way to go. You won't regret spending the extra money. But if you need that extra money for other stuff -- perhaps other upgrades in your system -- then be of good cheer because the AVM 50v is no slouch by any means.


The trick in making comparisons is that you have to have the units long enough to set them up right -- including ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I believe Anthem maintains a warehouse shipping/receiving facility just across the border in New York to expedite shipments in the US. If they give you a New York address for warranty repair it means that their facility in the US will take care of getting the unit through customs to the factory in Canada (where the work actually gets done) and then the reverse on the return. That probably reduces both customs processing time and shipping costs on the round trip.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Bob,

As always -good info.

Anyone know what the average repair turn around time is until I get my D2 back?


Ken


----------



## ccotenj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18651055
> 
> 
> Since the AVM 50v and the D2v first shipped, I believe we've only had TWO posters here who had both of them long enough to set each up correctly and make a useful comparison. In both cases they were folks who bought an AVM 50v, set it up, then got their hands on a D2v and decided the D2v sounded better enough that they unloaded the AVM 50v and kept the D2v.
> 
> 
> In my case I went from a D2 to a D2v and was pleasantly surprised that I was easily able to hear audio improvement, as I wasn't really expecting much audio difference between them
> 
> 
> My advice is that if you can afford the D2v, then that's the way to go. You won't regret spending the extra money. But if you need that extra money for other stuff -- perhaps other upgrades in your system -- then be of good cheer because the AVM 50v is no slouch by any means.
> 
> 
> The trick in making comparisons is that you have to have the units long enough to set them up right -- including ARC.
> 
> --Bob



ok, i'll bite and ask...


what about a d2 vs. an avm50v? strictly from a sq standpoint? assuming both could be acquired for essentially the same price?


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18651055
> 
> 
> 
> My advice is that if you can afford the D2v, then that's the way to go. You won't regret spending the extra money. But if you need that extra money for other stuff -- perhaps other upgrades in your system -- then be of good cheer because the AVM 50v is no slouch by any means.
> 
> 
> The trick in making comparisons is that you have to have the units long enough to set them up right -- including ARC.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, you seem to be "the man" on Anthem advice so I appreciate your comments. All of the software updates and "fixes" have me a little nervous. The D2v seems to be excellent.


I have a Velodyne DD12 sub that I forgot to mention. I am comfortable with my sound and power, just ready to take the next step on a-v processing. I have looked and read reviews for weeks-now more confused than ever! I think Parasound may still have a 7.1 processor at some point. I do like the A51 amp.


----------



## pgiralt

Is anyone out there using RS232 to control their D2V's? I'm having one annoying issue when trying to control my D2V with a URC MSC-400 (and an MX-980 remote). When I send a single RS-232 command P1VD or P1VU to decrease or increase the volume, it works fine, however if I try to repeat the command continuously (as I hold down the volume button on the remote), I start seeing issues. If I set the repeat rate to 500 ms, it works fine, albeit extremely slowly (basically 1dB per second). If I use the default URC rate which I don't remember off the top of my head, but I think it was something like 100 ms, as long as I am holding down the button, nothing happens on the D2V, but when I release the button the D2V will then increase or decrease the volume in response to all the commands it received. For example, if I hold the button for 5 seconds (which would have sent 50 commands), the volume will decrease by something close to 25 dB as if it had buffered all those commands but was not executing them until it stopped receiving commands. If I do the commands fast enough, the D2V completely stops responding to RS-232 commands and I have to power-cycle the D2V to get it working again.


To make sure the issue wasn't some kind of buffering on the MSC-400, I connected the RS-232 to a PC to see what is happening and I clearly see the P1VD/U commands sent in real-time as I am holding down the volume button on the remote, so this tells me that the buffering appears to be occurring on the D2V itself. AFAIK this is a D2V problem and not an issue on the URC remote.


Has anyone run into anything like this? I'm thinking of as a workaround connecting an IR connection from the MSC-400 to the D2V just to be able to run the volume control and I'll keep all the other commands going in via RS-232 just for reliability.


----------



## esander3

I have an AVM-50 and a Phillips Pronto 9800 Serial controller that works fine. I do not have any problems with my volume. If I hold down the volume button, the volume moves in real time. Not sure what your problem could be...


Do you have your stop bit set correctly? I don't remember the settings, but know that there is some capable configurations...


Ed


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pgiralt* /forum/post/18654640
> 
> 
> Is anyone out there using RS232 to control their D2V's? I'm having one annoying issue when trying to control my D2V with a URC MSC-400 (and an MX-980 remote). When I send a single RS-232 command P1VD or P1VU to decrease or increase the volume, it works fine, however if I try to repeat the command continuously (as I hold down the volume button on the remote), I start seeing issues. If I set the repeat rate to 500 ms, it works fine, albeit extremely slowly (basically 1dB per second). If I use the default URC rate which I don't remember off the top of my head, but I think it was something like 100 ms, as long as I am holding down the button, nothing happens on the D2V, but when I release the button the D2V will then increase or decrease the volume in response to all the commands it received. For example, if I hold the button for 5 seconds (which would have sent 50 commands), the volume will decrease by something close to 25 dB as if it had buffered all those commands but was not executing them until it stopped receiving commands. If I do the commands fast enough, the D2V completely stops responding to RS-232 commands and I have to power-cycle the D2V to get it working again.
> 
> 
> To make sure the issue wasn't some kind of buffering on the MSC-400, I connected the RS-232 to a PC to see what is happening and I clearly see the P1VD/U commands sent in real-time as I am holding down the volume button on the remote, so this tells me that the buffering appears to be occurring on the D2V itself. AFAIK this is a D2V problem and not an issue on the URC remote.
> 
> 
> Has anyone run into anything like this? I'm thinking of as a workaround connecting an IR connection from the MSC-400 to the D2V just to be able to run the volume control and I'll keep all the other commands going in via RS-232 just for reliability.



Call Anthem tech and ask them, if you haven't already. You'd be surprised how much they know









John


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18651393
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Anyone know what the average repair turn around time is until I get my D2 back?
> 
> 
> Ken



There has to be someone that's had a repair at Anthem.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18657136
> 
> 
> There has to be someone that's had a repair at Anthem.



I suppose it would be similar to my upgrade of the D1 to D1HD and it took less than a week.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18657136
> 
> 
> There has to be someone that's had a repair at Anthem.



I emailed Nick and when he gets back to me I'll let your know.

John


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18644868
> 
> 
> Not sure what you mean by " Still not ready to try v1.47x because you can't go back if it doesn't work out." You can do a roll back of firmware on the Anthems. Many people have done it.
> 
> John



Sorry. I thought that Bob had reported that you couldn't roll back 1.47f.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/18657782
> 
> 
> Sorry. I thought that Bob had reported that you couldn't roll back 1.47f.



I'm not aware of this limitation on any beta firmware Anthem has released. If this were the case, we who beta test might be more hesitant









John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/18657782
> 
> 
> Sorry. I thought that Bob had reported that you couldn't roll back 1.47f.



I updated to 1.47f from v1.33 a few weeks ago. For me the disadvantages of v1.47f outweighed its advantages and I decided to reinstall v1.33, but I was unable to do it. The D2 would not let me go from v1.47f back to v1.33.


I was able to 'flash erase' an then install v1.33. That was a relatively easy procedure, but I was not allowed to roll back firmwares without first doing a 'flash erase'. It could have been just me, but I think there may be a problem with going from v1.47f back to v1.33.


But again, a quick flash erase (or two) made it possible to reinstall v1.33.


I ,like many other D2 owners, am anxiously awaiting the release of the next firmware once the bugs have been worked out.


Tom


----------



## aus

Has anyone used an AVM50 with a Moxi box? The Anthem can't seem to process the signal from the Moxi at 1080i. It'll take 480i and 720p only. At 1080i the screen flickers between black and blue? Just wondering if anyone else has this issue?


----------



## Donloz

Anyone know what the average repair turn around time is until I get my D2 back?



I got mine back in 5 days, but I did drop and pick it up myself. Add a couple of days for delivery.


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/18658851
> 
> 
> I updated to 1.47f from v1.33 a few weeks ago. For me the disadvantages of v1.47f outweighed its advantages and I decided to reinstall v1.33, but I was unable to do it. The D2 would not let me go from v1.47f back to v1.33.
> 
> 
> I was able to 'flash erase' an then install v1.33. That was a relatively easy procedure, but I was not allowed to roll back firmwares without first doing a 'flash erase'. It could have been just me, but I think there may be a problem with going from v1.47f back to v1.33.
> 
> 
> But again, a quick flash erase (or two) made it possible to reinstall v1.33.
> 
> 
> I ,like many other D2 owners, am anxiously awaiting the release of the next firmware once the bugs have been worked out.
> 
> 
> Tom



Andrew from Anthem says if you flash erase you can roll back firmware, but it is not recommended.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/18659824
> 
> 
> Andrew from Anthem says if you flash erase you can roll back firmware, but it is not recommended.



I seem to remember people rolling back firmware without flash erasing. This is the first time I've heard this as something everyone has to do rather than someone who has a specific problem.


John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/18658881
> 
> 
> Has anyone used an AVM50 with a Moxi box? The Anthem can't seem to process the signal from the Moxi at 1080i. It'll take 480i and 720p only. At 1080i the screen flickers between black and blue? Just wondering if anyone else has this issue?



aus:


I have the AVM50v hooked up to my 3-Tuner Moxi with no problems. Did you select 1080i as an allowable resolutions in Moxi? If so, then check your HDMI cable (if thats what you are using) and make sure its not too long.


Also depending on your settings in the AVM50 for the maximum resolution that your TV will accept(Video Output -> Video Output Config), make sure they are at least equal to the 1080i/60 setting or simply change the setting to AUTO if you aren't sure what your TV's maximum resolution would be.


Would be a good idea to set the color space and data settings to AUTO for now.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18659891
> 
> 
> I seem to remember people rolling back firmware without flash erasing. This is the first time I've heard this as something everyone has to do rather than someone who has a specific problem.
> 
> 
> John



I did have a specific problem. I could not roll back to v1.33.

It was Andrew at Anthem who suggested I flash erase and reload with v1.33.


If I understand correctly, and I am not a computer expert by any stretch of the imagination, flash erasing wipes the slate clean. Then the firmware can be loaded fresh without a chance of possible contamination from previous firmware.

I have loaded a few different firmwares into my D2 over the years, since it came loaded with v1.1. I went from v1.1> v1.6> v1.11 > v1.21> v1.33.

I always loaded the new firmware on top of the previous firmware and never had a problem. I never had to flash erase, but I was always going up to a newer firmware, never reverting to a prior release. And always an official firmware, not a beta test version.


I don't know if others (or all) who have loaded v1.47f will have problems if they try to roll back to v1.33. It would not surprise me if I am the only one it happened to. Such is my luck with computers.


But I was able to roll back by flash erasing, and it went very well. Andrew certainly didn't seem to be concerned at all when he advised me to flash erase. He led me to believe it was perfectly safe. And it was.


I hope anyone else who needs to roll back from v1.47f to v1.33 can do it without flash erasing. If they can't I would advise them to contact Anthem tech for help.

In my case flash erasing worked flawlessly.


I also hope that Anthem releases a new 'official' firmware soon for the D2 that has all the bugs worked out soon so that I can upgrade to an official version.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/18657782
> 
> 
> Sorry. I thought that Bob had reported that you couldn't roll back 1.47f.



Back before we knew of the hardware limitation for "test" V1.47f, folks who had D2 hardware that was not supported by "test" V1.47f reported that they could not re-install "official" V1.33 afterwards once they found V1.47f was not working for them.


The workaround was to get V1.28 (as I recall) from Anthem tech support, install that, and then install V1.33.


So you can roll back to V1.33, but it requires an intermediate step.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is no "risk" I'm aware of in doing a Flash Erase. It's just a nuisance since settings you might have saved in User or Installer Settings don't survive. You have to re-enter you settings manually or reload them from backups you might have on your PC -- e.g., via Settings Backup for the Setup menu settings and via Live Video Settings Editor for the Video Source Adjust menu settings. You also need to re-Upload your ARC results.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/18659147
> 
> 
> Anyone know what the average repair turn around time is until I get my D2 back?
> 
> 
> 
> I got mine back in 5 days, but I did drop and pick it up myself. Add a couple of days for delivery.



A good rule of thumb seems to be that a repair will take a week in the factory. To that you need to add shipping time each way -- keeping in mind that crossing the border may involve Customs processing delays each way.

--Bob


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18660362
> 
> 
> aus:
> 
> 
> I have the AVM50v hooked up to my 3-Tuner Moxi with no problems. Did you select 1080i as an allowable resolutions in Moxi? If so, then check your HDMI cable (if thats what you are using) and make sure its not too long.
> 
> 
> Also depending on your settings in the AVM50 for the maximum resolution that your TV will accept(Video Output -> Video Output Config), make sure they are at least equal to the 1080i/60 setting or simply change the setting to AUTO if you aren't sure what your TV's maximum resolution would be.
> 
> 
> Would be a good idea to set the color space and data settings to AUTO for now.



I'll give it a try later, but it was all working fine with the DirecTV box set at 1080i. Now it'll only take 480i and 720p. I tried 1080i, 1080/24, 1080/30 and nothing worked. The TV can take a 1080p/24 signal (Pioneer 500M) and a 1080p signal. I just HATE changing things.


----------



## jayray

"2 weeks for nearest states, 4-5 for SoCal and thereabout." This is Nick's response re repair times.

John


----------



## gbhodge




Bob Pariseau said:


> Since the AVM 50v and the D2v first shipped, I believe we've only had TWO posters here who had both of them long enough to set each up correctly and make a useful comparison. In both cases they were folks who bought an AVM 50v, set it up, then got their hands on a D2v and decided the D2v sounded better enough that they unloaded the AVM 50v and kept the D2v.
> 
> 
> If either of these posters can chime in, that would be great. Thanks to Bob's post on the first page of this discussion, I see the central differences in the two processors. My dilemma is subjective, for $2,800 US will I hear/see the differences given my equipment (not as esoteric as most of you):
> 
> 
> Martin Logan Vantages-fronts
> 
> Martin Logan Cinema i-center
> 
> Martin Logan Frescos-rears
> 
> Velodyne DD12 sub
> 
> Parasound Halo A51 amp
> 
> Sony 55" Grand Wega monitor
> 
> AudioQuest (chocolate) HDMI cables
> 
> 
> Love the Anthem processors, just need to make a final decision


----------



## jayray




gbhodge said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18651055
> 
> 
> Since the AVM 50v and the D2v first shipped, I believe we've only had TWO posters here who had both of them long enough to set each up correctly and make a useful comparison. In both cases they were folks who bought an AVM 50v, set it up, then got their hands on a D2v and decided the D2v sounded better enough that they unloaded the AVM 50v and kept the D2v.
> 
> 
> If either of these posters can chime in, that would be great. Thanks to Bob's post on the first page of this discussion, I see the central differences in the two processors. My dilemma is subjective, for $2,800 US will I hear/see the differences given my equipment (not as esoteric as most of you):
> 
> 
> Martin Logan Vantages-fronts
> 
> Martin Logan Cinema i-center
> 
> Martin Logan Frescos-rears
> 
> Velodyne DD12 sub
> 
> Parasound Halo A51 amp
> 
> Sony 55" Grand Wega monitor
> 
> AudioQuest (chocolate) HDMI cables
> 
> 
> Love the Anthem processors, just need to make a final decision
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had an AVM50 which was sold to buy a D2v. The diff was very noticeable, as my wife said. This is a very good compliment considering she rarely notices any of my upgrades. I know this is not a very good comparison since there is probably a diff from the AV50 and AVM50v. However, it is ARC which you would be missing if you purchased another brand. Do a google search for ARC and see the raves it gets vs. Audessey. I have both and there is no comparison. So whether you get the AVM50v or D2v, your sound will be fantastic because of ARC. If you get the AVM50 don't second guess yourself,
> 
> it will sound great.
> 
> John
Click to expand...


----------



## Summit HDTV

Hello,


What would be the preferred connection for the above components? Analog for two channel stereo and for movies? Or would it be best to use analog for stereo and HDMI audio for movies? I assume the audio upgrade in this model is somewhat nullified if you do not use analog audio connections.


If there are any menu settings in the BDP-83SE that I will need to set, I'd be grateful for that information. Your input is appreciated.


Thanks!


Joe


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Summit HDTV* /forum/post/18665717
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> What would be the preferred connection for the above components? Analog for two channel stereo and for movies? Or would it be best to use analog for stereo and HDMI audio for movies? I assume the audio upgrade in this model is somewhat nullified if you do not use analog audio connections.
> 
> 
> If there are any menu settings in the BDP-83SE that I will need to set, I'd be grateful for that information. Your input is appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Joe



Joe:


I definately listen to MCH analog of the SE for high quality musical programs, BD concerts or SACD/DVD-A disks. Movies are a toss up, but i tend to prefer MCH analog more and more. I don't understand why the SE sounds better via its analog outputs which are re-digitized by my 50v, processed by ARC and then converted to analog. It just doesn't make sense(to me anyway) but one thing is undeniable in my system, music sounds better via analog SE than its HDMI....go figure!


Now for the rest:

*Playback setup*


SACD Priority -> Mutlichannels

DVD-audio mode -> DVD-Audio

Auto play Mode -> On

*Video Setup*


Picture Adjustments -> leave at default levels

Primary Output -> HDMI

TV Aspect Ratio -> 16:9 Wide/Auto

TV System -> Multi-System

Output Resolution -> 1080p

1080p24 Output -> Auto

DVD 24p Conversion -> Off

HDMI Options -> Auto for all except 36-bits for HDMI color. 30 bits(dithered) also works fine.

Display Options -> left on as default values.

*Audio Format Setup*

Secondary Audio -> off

HDMI Audio -> Auto

SACD output -> DSD

HDCD Decoding -> On

Coaxial/Optical Output -> Bitstream

LPCM Rate Limit -> 192K

*Audio Processing*


Speaker Configuration -> Large (for my setup. AVR does bass management).

Dynamic Range Control -> Off

*Device Setup*


Firmware Notification -> On

HDMI CEC -> Off

Dimmer Control -> On

*Network Setup*


BD Live -> Off


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/18660999
> 
> 
> I'll give it a try later, but it was all working fine with the DirecTV box set at 1080i. Now it'll only take 480i and 720p. I tried 1080i, 1080/24, 1080/30 and nothing worked. The TV can take a 1080p/24 signal (Pioneer 500M) and a 1080p signal. I just take changing things.



aus:


If you passed 1080i fine in the past, then its time to change the HDMI/Component cable. This sounds more and more like a bandwidth limitation issue. Something in your cable system has severely gone wrong, IMO.


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18666065
> 
> 
> aus:
> 
> 
> If you passed 1080i fine in the past, then its time to change the HDMI/Component cable. This sounds more and more like a bandwidth limitation issue. Something in your cable system has severely gone wrong, IMO.



i don't think it can be cable/bandwidth issue, as 720p takes more bandwidth than 1080i


mark


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18666049
> 
> 
> Joe:
> 
> 
> I definately listen to MCH analog of the SE for high quality musical programs, BD concerts or SACD/DVD-A disks. Movies are a toss up, but i tend to prefer MCH analog more and more. I don't understand why the SE sounds better via its analog outputs which are re-digitized by my 50v, processed by ARC and then converted to analog. It just doesn't make sense(to me anyway) but one thing is undeniable in my system, music sounds better via analog SE than its HDMI....go figure!
> 
> 
> Now for the rest:
> 
> *Playback setup*
> 
> 
> SACD Priority -> Mutlichannels
> 
> DVD-audio mode -> DVD-Audio
> 
> Auto play Mode -> On
> 
> *Video Setup*
> 
> 
> Picture Adjustments -> leave at default levels
> 
> Primary Output -> HDMI
> 
> TV Aspect Ratio -> 16:9 Wide/Auto
> 
> TV System -> Multi-System
> 
> Output Resolution -> 1080p
> 
> 1080p24 Output -> Auto
> 
> DVD 24p Conversion -> Off
> 
> HDMI Options -> Auto for all except 36-bits for HDMI color. 30 bits(dithered) also works fine.
> 
> Display Options -> left on as default values.
> 
> *Audio Format Setup*
> 
> Secondary Audio -> off
> 
> HDMI Audio -> Auto
> 
> SACD output -> DSD
> 
> HDCD Decoding -> On
> 
> Coaxial/Optical Output -> Bitstream
> 
> LPCM Rate Limit -> 192K
> 
> *Audio Processing*
> 
> 
> Speaker Configuration -> Large (for my setup. AVR does bass management).
> 
> Dynamic Range Control -> Off
> 
> *Device Setup*
> 
> 
> Firmware Notification -> On
> 
> HDMI CEC -> Off
> 
> Dimmer Control -> On
> 
> *Network Setup*
> 
> 
> BD Live -> Off



Thanks dmosoke!


Joe


----------



## gbhodge




jayray said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18661683
> 
> 
> 
> I had an AVM50 which was sold to buy a D2v. The diff was very noticeable, as my wife said. This is a very good compliment considering she rarely notices any of my upgrades. I know this is not a very good comparison since there is probably a diff from the AV50 and AVM50v. However, it is ARC which you would be missing if you purchased another brand. Do a google search for ARC and see the raves it gets vs. Audessey. I have both and there is no comparison. So whether you get the AVM50v or D2v, your sound will be fantastic because of ARC. If you get the AVM50 don't second guess yourself,
> 
> it will sound great.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you! I appreciate not being "cast out" for asking a question that has been on this forum multiple times (hard to get through 943 pages). Now for two technical questions:
> 
> 
> 1. I will need to take my Panamax line filter out with either processor?
> 
> 2. The AVM 50v and D2v are built on different platforms? This has implications for future upgrades?
Click to expand...


----------



## obie_fl

1. I can't think of any reason to take it out. It's not like your are talking about a high current power amp.

2. I don't think the platforms are all that different however I will say that both platforms are quite mature and I doubt very seriously if you will see anything new based on either.


----------



## BruceOmega




jayray said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18661683
> 
> 
> 
> I had an AVM50 which was sold to buy a D2v. The diff was very noticeable, as my wife said. This is a very good compliment considering she rarely notices any of my upgrades. I know this is not a very good comparison since there is probably a diff from the AV50 and AVM50v. However, it is ARC which you would be missing if you purchased another brand. Do a google search for ARC and see the raves it gets vs. Audessey. I have both and there is no comparison. So whether you get the AVM50v or D2v, your sound will be fantastic because of ARC. If you get the AVM50 don't second guess yourself,
> 
> it will sound great.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> When you noticed the SQ difference, were you using ARC on the D2v? Or was the difference independent of room correction?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bruce
Click to expand...


----------



## jamulian

Also how do I get Anthem Cinema. When I am playing CD's I get Anthem Music, but with movies I usually get 5.1 and I cannot select Anthem Cinema.

I am new to this.

Thanks.


----------



## jayray




BruceOmega said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18664181
> 
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> When you noticed the SQ difference, were you using ARC on the D2v? Or was the difference independent of room correction?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce,
> 
> I had ARC on my AVM 50 as well as my D2v, so the diff would be more
> 
> attributable to the units themselves.
> 
> John
Click to expand...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/18670977
> 
> 
> Also how do I get Anthem Cinema. When I am playing CD's I get Anthem Music, but with movies I usually get 5.1 and I cannot select Anthem Cinema.
> 
> I am new to this.
> 
> Thanks.



If you have ARC, THX is usually left off since ARC takes care of anything THX would bring to the table.

John


----------



## BruceOmega




jayray said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BruceOmega* /forum/post/18669087
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce,
> 
> I had ARC on my AVM 50 as well as my D2v, so the diff would be more
> 
> attributable to the units themselves.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you.
Click to expand...


----------



## video_bit_bucket

So do I have too much of a gap between my LCR and sub?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/18675098
> 
> 
> So do I have too much of a gap between my LCR and sub?



You are on the edge of having a problem (more with C than with LF/RF), but keep in mind that both the main speaker and the sub are playing the content through the crossover, so they add. So if their 3dB down frequencies are the same then you just squeak by.


Anyway, you should figure out why your sub is rolling off so low on its high frequency response. Odds are you have its internal crossover still engaged, and at a fairly low frequency setting.


Disable/bypass the internal crossover in the sub, or if you can't do that, crank it up to the highest frequency so that the sub can produce output at higher frequencies. After fixing the setting in the sub you will need to re-Measure for ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/18670977
> 
> 
> Also how do I get Anthem Cinema. When I am playing CD's I get Anthem Music, but with movies I usually get 5.1 and I cannot select Anthem Cinema.
> 
> I am new to this.
> 
> Thanks.



Anthem Logic Music is a "Surround processing" mode. That is, it takes fewer channels of input and raises them to more speakers of output. AL Music and AL Cinema in particular are designed to work with stereo input. So it is not offered as a choice when you have 5.1 channel input.


Understand that if you have 5.1 speakers and are playing 5.1 content (as from a movie) there is no work for a surround processing mode to do, and so NONE will be your only choice. If you have 7.1 speakers then you can use a surround processing mode (e.g., PLIIx) to raise 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output.


So the choices you have for surround processing at any moment are a function of the type of audio input, the number of speakers you have configured, and whether or not you have THX post processing turned on.


THX is an audio "post processing" mode. The things that THX will do in 5.1 and 7.1 speaker setups are pretty well described in the Manual so I'll refer you to that. But one thing to note is that if you turn on THX, some surround processing choices may not be available. For example you can't get Mono Academy mode while THX is turned on.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18675126
> 
> 
> You are on the edge of having a problem (more with C than with LF/RF), but keep in mind that both the main speaker and the sub are playing the content through the crossover, so they add. So if their 3dB down frequencies are the same then you just squeak by.
> 
> 
> Anyway, you should figure out why your sub is rolling off so low on its high frequency response. Odds are you have its internal crossover still engaged, and at a fairly low frequency setting.
> 
> 
> Disable/bypass the internal crossover in the sub, or if you can't do that, crank it up to the highest frequency so that the sub can produce output at higher frequencies. After fixing the setting in the sub you will need to re-Measure for ARC.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the quick response Bob.


It is a Servo 15 v2, the internal crossover is set as high as it will go, 150 Hz, there is a adjustment I have never played with that indicate it adds gain centered at 60 Hz. I found an online review which indicated it should be flat to over 100 Hz. Guess it is time to play and hope the fix does not involve shipping.


Any chance that it is a room boundary issue? As I understand it the shape of the curve does not lend itself to that but .......


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No it really looks like it has a crossover active in it. If you have any electronics BETWEEN the Anthem and the sub then that might be the source of the problem.


Its real response (red Measured curve) is down 12dB by 80-100Hz, so expecting a typical crossover slope of 12dB per octave that means the crossover is kicking in around 40-50Hz.


Perhaps the control is mislabeled or you have misread it and have the sub set at minimum crossover frequency instead of maximum.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/18675174
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick response Bob.
> 
> 
> It is a Servo 15 v2, the internal crossover is set as high as it will go, 150 Hz, there is a adjustment I have never played with that indicate it adds gain centered at 60 Hz. I found an online review which indicated it should be flat to over 100 Hz. Guess it is time to play and hope the fix does not involve shipping.
> 
> 
> Any chance that it is a room boundary issue? As I understand it the shape of the curve does not lend itself to that but .......



I have the same sub. It is properly labeled as Freq. cutoff. Raise it to 150 Hz. This is what I did and got and I got a close to perfect result. Also turn the 60 Hz boost all the way to 0. My result was flat from 100 to 20 Hz. Positioning made the biggest diff. in the 100 to 50 Hz. region, almost 10 db. difference.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I wonder whether the servo mechanism in that particular sub might be negatively affected by wall proximity through that range of frequencies? That would seem to defeat the whole idea of having a servo.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

More thoughts on this:

This would certainly not be a general characteristic of servo mechanisms in subs. For example, I run my Velodyne DD series sub with the servo cranked up to the maximum setting (==> best frequency accuracy at the expense of max output volume), and I've got it positioned smack into a solid-walled corner with no such problem.


But I'm having trouble figuring out why your sub's output would be affected so much by repositioning over a full octave in these frequencies, so maybe it is a feedback problem with the servo.


One experiment that might be fun, if your sub allows it, is to leave the sub in the front corner, turn off the servo, and see if that 50-100Hz frequency range suddenly reappears.

--bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18675852
> 
> 
> I have the same sub. It is properly labeled as Freq. cutoff. Raise it to 150 Hz. This is what I did and got and I got a close to perfect result. Also turn the 60 Hz boost all the way to 0. My result was flat from 100 to 20 Hz. Positioning made the biggest diff. in the 100 to 50 Hz. region, almost 10 db. difference.
> 
> John



Thanks for the feedback.


I am reading the scales upside down but think i have the crossover defeated as much as I can. There are no active components between the D1 and the sub so looks like the servo feedback is responding to the boundary in a negative way or the room position in general stinks. Time to move the sub around a bit. Just hope that the issue is not with the servo accelerometer sensor or electronics as I do not see a way to defeat it.


Hopefully there is a little daddy play time this afternoon that I can experiment.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just so you know, JAYRAY got astoundingly good results with his sub by moving it from a front corner to a location halfway towards the rear along a side wall. I don't recall whether he had the driver turned to face the center seating or had it pointing towards the front or rear of the room.


If you move the sub, be sure to re-check your Polarity/Phase adjustment for it -- i.e., get it in phase with LF -- as phase is a function of relative speaker placement. But with only one sub, you can do that AFTER you get the sub's own response sorted out. ARC hears the sub playing by itself so what ARC hears and reports is not altered by phase relationships to the other speakers. So find a sub positioning that gives you proper sub output (if you can) and then go adjust Polarity/Phase for that new sub position.


By the way, what I've been calling the "basic volume level" of your ARC solution is about 5dB higher than the 75dB typically recommended. This shows on the charts as the flat part of the black-dashed Target curves to the right of the crossover frequencies. In the D2v you can adjust this by lowering Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level, which setting ARC uses to adjust the volume of its test sweep tones. In your D1 I believe that may be named Noise Level.


You've also got essentially 0 Room Gain in your charts. This may be due to significant acoustic treatments in your room (which may also have something to do with the rapid roll off of your sub). In any event, you might want to adjust the ARC Targets to add about 2dB of Room Gain (leave the "Force" box checked). You'll see this as a shallow hump in the Target and Calculated curves near the crossover frequencies. Most movie mixes assume home theaters have some Room Gain -- 2-4dB being typical.


ETA: Based on your Measured curves, it doesn't look to me like you have ANY room resonances or nulls -- at least as seen by these speakers in the front of the room. In fact your uncorrected room measures so flat for these speakers it may even be over treated -- too close to anechoic to sound "right" -- e.g., the no Room Gain issue above. It will be very interesting to see if you can fix your sub problem by repositioning.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18676107
> 
> 
> More thoughts on this:
> 
> This would certainly not be a general characteristic of servo mechanisms in subs. For example, I run my Velodyne DD series sub with the servo cranked up to the maximum setting (==> best frequency accuracy at the expense of max output volume), and I've got it positioned smack into a solid-walled corner with no such problem.
> 
> 
> But I'm having trouble figuring out why your sub's output would be affected so much by repositioning over a full octave in these frequencies, so maybe it is a feedback problem with the servo.
> 
> 
> One experiment that might be fun, if your sub allows it, is to leave the sub in the front corner, turn off the servo, and see if that 50-100Hz frequency range suddenly reappears.
> 
> --bob



Bob,

I don't know of any way to disable the servo in my sub.

John


----------



## jayray

Bob,

my sub is facing perpendicular to the side wall.

John


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18677233
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> my sub is facing perpendicular to the side wall.
> 
> John



Ok, leaving to take the youngling to a promised fishing trip for a couple of hours. But...... ARC is currently calculating a totally different sub response having moved the sub from the front of the room in the corner to an end table position by the seating with the driver facing the front of the room. Huge difference. The servo feedback must circuit must be coupling with the corner in a way that shuts it down over 50 Hz.


Will post some finals late tonight if I can.


On the room gain, I have no treatments but the construction is such that I can see it being pretty dead.


----------



## mvppsu

I just purchased a used D2 and went through the initial setup last night. I have a few questions and need to do some more reading to really get this thing setup properly. I'm running firmware v1.47f.


1. I'm attaching my initial ARC results. Any comments?


2. I feel that the bass is a bit weak. Is there anything wrong with going into the speaker levels in the D2 menu and increasing the sub level after ARC results are loaded?
edit: I found this in one of Bob's earlier posts:


> Quote:
> "But don't fiddle with your Speaker Configuration, or cross overs, or Speaker Calibration settings as that will mess up what ARC has set up."




3. Would raising the crossover to 80hz help?


4. Would increasing the room gain in ARC give a bit more impact? Any issues adjusting this?


I'll hold off on posting my impressions/review until I do a bit more calibrating.


Thanks,


Mike


---------
Looks like I'll need to adjust the reference level down a bit to lower the ARC curves to 75db.


I also found these directions in an earlier "Bob" post:



> Quote:
> "All the mic locations need to be at seated ear height or close to it and with the mic pointing straight up. The individual mic locations need to be at least 24 inches apart from each other. The #1 position must be at your dead center listening position and then you must alternate either side of center for subsequent mic positions."


5. Does this mean I should not use posistions directly in line with the center posistion, ie in front and back of center? If I have a standard 3 cushion couch, what are the recomended posistions? Should I try to get some depth as well as width?---------


System Summary:

Anthem D2 wARC, Musical Fidelity A5 integrated with HT Passthrough, Parasound 1203a, PS Audio DLIII wCL4, Velodyne SMS-1, PS3, Tivo HD, AppleTV, Paradgm Sig S6, S2, CC590(to be upgraded to C3), JL Audio F113, Aura Bass Shakers


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Bob and jayray thanks for your help.


Posted below are two ARC results from a D1 and a Servo 15 v2, the only difference is the placement of the sub. The low output was in the front corner of the room. The second is with it placed on a side wall with the driver facing down the wall towards the back of the room.


Apparently the room coupled with the servo circuit in a way that shutdown the output when the sub was in the corner.


----------



## politby

Greetings


I have recently bought a used AVM 50 and it's great. I am having one little issue that I am trying to figure out the cause of.


Once in a while, when I switch on my system, I will get video but no audio from one of my HDMI devices (HTPC). Instead of the normal audio, there is a constant hiss that is unaffected by the volume control.


If I cycle the inputs on the AVM 50 (e.g. switch to "Sat/HDMI2" and then back to "TV/HDMI1") everything returns to normal.


I am wondering if this is caused by the Anthem or by the HTPC. So far it has only happened with HDMI1, not with my STB which is on HDMI2.


Any suggestions?


Thanks


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18684867
> 
> 
> Greetings
> 
> 
> I have recently bought a used AVM 50 and it's great. I am having one little issue that I am trying to figure out the cause of.
> 
> 
> Once in a while, when I switch on my system, I will get video but no audio from one of my HDMI devices (HTPC). Instead of the normal audio, there is a constant hiss that is unaffected by the volume control.
> 
> 
> If I cycle the inputs on the AVM 50 (e.g. switch to "Sat/HDMI2" and then back to "TV/HDMI1") everything returns to normal.
> 
> 
> I am wondering if this is caused by the Anthem or by the HTPC. So far it has only happened with HDMI1, not with my STB which is on HDMI2.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I believe that's a hdmi handshake issue, I still get it once in a while with my D2v.


----------



## jamulian

I had found this while going through the threads, but I have gone back to try and find it and I cannot locate it. I have tried every search I can think of, but I still can't locate it. Thanks for your help.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/18685550
> 
> 
> I had found this while going through the threads, but I have gone back to try and find it and I cannot locate it. I have tried every search I can think of, but I still can't locate it. Thanks for your help.



All the INFO is on *Page #1*


----------



## favorini

tjg, do you have any specs on the MRX 700? I saw that MRX 500 is 100W per channel. Any idea for the 700? Is there more than one HDMI out? Is there HDMI in on the front? How tall is that sucker? I see the Ethernet jack on the back, but does it also do wireless? How about playing various audio/video files over the network or via USB?


I want to get my grubby little hands on one of these puppies ASAP. I just upgraded my speakers to a nice Paradigm 5.1 setup, but I still have my 19-year-old Sony Pro Logic receiver, and it's killing me!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/18684496
> 
> 
> Bob and jayray thanks for your help.
> 
> 
> Posted below are two ARC results from a D1 and a Servo 15 v2, the only difference is the placement of the sub. The low output was in the front corner of the room. The second is with it placed on a side wall with the driver facing down the wall towards the back of the room.
> 
> 
> Apparently the room coupled with the servo circuit in a way that shutdown the output when the sub was in the corner.



Now it looks like I thought it would. I suspect you have tried it and been blown away by the impact now in the 100 Hz. range. Let us know









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^^I agree. It looks like you overdid reducing Test Level (Noise Level?) a bit. You want to get things right around 75dB for the flat part of the Target curves to the right of the crossover frequencies (i.e., the basic volume level of the solution).


The new sub curve also looks like there's some Room Gain in your solution now, perhaps because you added it yourself.


As for the sub, I suspect what may be going on is that the servo was reacting to excessive boundary gain from the placement in the corner and that caused it to reduce overall output. But that's just a guess. It really should not have to do that.


Anyway, whatever works! Now with the sub in an end-table position (right next to your seating) you want to make sure that the cutoff/crossovers for your main speakers are not too high as otherwise you might hear dialog steered into the sub as you will be seated in its near field response area. The critical choice is the cutoff/crossover for the Center speaker since that's where the bulk of the dialog will be. If its cutoff/crossover is down around 60Hz or lower that would be good. 90Hz or higher would not be good. Note that it is the main speaker target setting that matters for this. A higher cutoff for the sub itself makes no difference since no bass will be steered to the sub above the crossover for each main speaker anyway (and there's no dialog in the LFE channel).

--Bob


----------



## jamulian

Thanks,

Thats perfect.

The help on the Anthem forum is the main reason I chose my unit.


----------



## ninja12

I know Anthem recommends not going above 5Khz; however, my charts look better at 20Khz than they do at 5Khz. When I say looks better, I am referring to the low frequencies. The low frequencies are smoother with 20Khz than they are with 5Khz. Does anyone know what would cause that?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18689032
> 
> 
> I know Anthem recommends not going above 5Khz; however, my charts look better at 20Khz than they do at 5Khz. When I say looks better, I am referring to the low frequencies. The low frequencies are smoother with 20Khz than they are with 5Khz. Does anyone know what would cause that?



It is probably just the luck of how ARC's resources were mapped against the frequency range. Evidently, when constrained to the smaller frequency range, ARC had trouble applying the tools it had to produce the correction. When trying to fit solutions to a data set, this sometimes happens.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18688130
> 
> 
> Now it looks like I thought it would. I suspect you have tried it and been blown away by the impact now in the 100 Hz. range. Let us know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I have been missing it so long that at first is sounded a little heavy. Getting used to it quickly.


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/18675098
> 
> 
> So do I have too much of a gap between my LCR and sub?



Now that I have my sub issue resolved why does my center which appears to have identical drivers have such a quick falloff at 100 Hz. These are Paradigm W5's. The ARC suggested a 60 Hz crossover for the L/R and 90 Hz for the center. Did not sound right so manually edited the crossover on the center to 60 Hz, sounds better but something is wrong me thinks.


Anyone else with W5's running ARC got a file to compare to this?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post18675098


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Check that you haven't blown the woofer on Center. Play some stereo content using Mono All audio mode, put your ear close to each driver and compare the woofer in C against LF. Your chart doesn't look like a broken Center but check this first anyway.


ETA: It looks to me like you are losing a little bass in C in the 40-70Hz range. Just enough to make ARC think the rolloff has begun higher, and thus the 90 Hz crossover.


This could be due to installation. For example if you have a shelf under C there may not be enough air gap between C and that shelf. Check the speaker manual for installation guidance.


You could probably safely lower ARC's choice of cutoff/crossover for C to around 70Hz.

--Bob


----------



## mvppsu

Ok, after quite a bit more reading and some experimentation, I think I answered most of my questions (see below). I re-did ARC last night and got some pretty good results. I'm still experimenting with crossovers and room gain to find the sweet spot, but I think I'm close. it sounds much better than my first attempt which used some improper calibration techniques.


I think the 60Hz cutoff for my speaker which ARC sets is too low. At 75db, or even 80db, my speakers can reproduce these frequencies, but they don't have much headroom. My subwoofer on the other hand has plenty of headroom at these frequencies and therefore gives a much more dynamic sound. The manufacturer specs for my speakers list -3db at 45Hz, 52Hz, 55Hz for F, C, Surround respectively. I'll have to do some more tinkering, but 70Hz sounds pretty good.


I also tried increasing my room gain, ARC calculated 1.7xx. I moved it up to 2.5 which was too much, but feel 1.7 is a bit flat. I'll have to try something in the middle, probably around 2.


I'll post my new charts tonight.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/18684392
> 
> 
> 1. I'm attaching my initial ARC results. Any comments? I adjusted the level down so that the charts are now at 76db
> 
> 2. I feel that the bass is a bit weak. Is there anything wrong with going into the speaker levels in the D2 menu and increasing the sub level after ARC results are loaded?Looks like making changes in the D2 is bad...
> 
> 3. Would raising the crossover to 80hz help?So far it looks like raising it will help. 80Hz may be too high but I'll experiement
> 
> 4. Would increasing the room gain in ARC give a bit more impact? Any issues adjusting this?It does provide a richer sound, but I'll need to do some experimenting with this as well.
> 
> 5. Does this mean I should not use posistions directly in line with the center posistion, ie in front and back of center? If I have a standard 3 cushion couch, what are the recomended posistions? Should I try to get some depth as well as width?From what I understand all microphone posistions should be left right of center, not front back. I tried this and got much better results.


----------



## mvppsu

Some thoughts on ARC v Audessey…


After years of Audessey calibration, I had to relearn how to do a calibration with ARC. While ARC seems to be doing a much better job than Audessey and is much more customizable (I like this), one area I find it lacking is in subwoofer phase setting. Audessey does this automatically, ARC requires you to do it yourself (and doesn't give you the tools to always get the right answer).


Following the instructions I found in this thread: 1. Set measured distances in D2 2. Run ARC 3. Adjust phase in D2 with test tone, I think there is a situation where this won't give the ideal results. That is when a subwoofer has internal processing or a LPF that cannot be bypassed. In this case entering the real distances in the "listening position" table will not allow you to get phase exactly right. In this case you would need to delay the sound from the front speakers to match the subwoofer. Adjusting the phase in the subwoofer only delays the subwoofer more. What you need is to set the sub farther away to compensate for the processing delay, but there is no way to calculate this without experimentation. Just adjusting phase may get you an ok solution, but not the perfect solution. This is the situation I have in my 2 channel analog system where there is no way to add a delay to the front speakers.


Audessey measures the time delay and automatically sets distances based on the time it takes the signal to travel through each speaker, not necessarily the physically measured distance. I think this is a +1 for Audessey, especially for less technically inclined users.


In my case this was not an issue since I can bypass all processing in my subwoofer, but it is something users should be aware of.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/18689823
> 
> 
> I have been missing it so long that at first is sounded a little heavy. Getting used to it quickly.



Great to hear.

John


----------



## Kensmith48

It's been 7 days now since the repair facility took possession of my D2. I still haven't heard a word of what's going on. Sure seems like a bad way of running things.

I hear JVC has a 3 day turnaround and keeps their customers informed of the whole repair process. Anthem could learn a thing or 2.

Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Part of the problem may be that it was a holiday weekend in Canada.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18691062
> 
> 
> Part of the problem may be that it was a holiday weekend in Canada.
> 
> --Bob



So if I don't count the weekend it's been 5 days. Still to slow to inform me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A 3-day holiday weekend.









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^^Check your PM.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18690761
> 
> 
> It's been 7 days now since the repair facility took possession of my D2. I still haven't heard a word of what's going on. Sure seems like a bad way of running things.
> 
> I hear JVC has a 3 day turnaround and keeps their customers informed of the whole repair process. Anthem could learn a thing or 2.
> 
> Ken



Ken, FWIW, I received my D2V back from Anthem on Tuesday (yesterday). Anthem had possession of the unit in their Canadian factory for a total of 7 calendar days (received in the Anthem plant on Friday 5/14 and shipped away to me on 5/21). Seemed reasonable to me.


They repaired the video board, updated the programming on the DSP board, and modified the mainboard with some "caps". They also reloaded standard 2.08 on that before QA'ing the whole thing. All this for a unit that was mfg'd in Nov 2009, so many updates that hopefully will last me a LONG time.


Hope you get yours soon.

-Brian


----------



## Kensmith48




ManWithAPlan said:


> Ken, FWIW, I received my D2V back from Anthem on Tuesday (yesterday). Anthem had possession of the unit in their Canadian factory for a total of 7 calendar days (received in the Anthem plant on Friday 5/14 and shipped away to me on 5/21). Seemed reasonable to me.
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> Brian, Thanks for the info.
> 
> Did they call or e-mail you with a progress report or inform you of any charges? I sent the unit to their facility in NY so I don't know how long it takes before they work on it in the Canadian plant. It's already been 7 calender days but as Bob pointed out -they had a 3 day holiday.
> 
> Ken


----------



## ASW




Kensmith48 said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18692980
> 
> 
> Ken, FWIW, I received my D2V back from Anthem on Tuesday (yesterday). Anthem had possession of the unit in their Canadian factory for a total of 7 calendar days (received in the Anthem plant on Friday 5/14 and shipped away to me on 5/21). Seemed reasonable to me.
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> Brian, Thanks for the info.
> 
> Did they call or e-mail you with a progress report or inform you of any charges? I sent the unit to their facility in NY so I don't know how long it takes before they work on it in the Canadian plant. It's already been 7 calender days but as Bob pointed out -they had a 3 day holiday.
> 
> Ken
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you try calling Piero or Nick? They are VERY responsive.
Click to expand...


----------



## Shrike645

What happened to the pics of the MX700?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/18690448
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on ARC v Audessey
> 
> 
> After years of Audessey calibration, I had to relearn how to do a calibration with ARC. While ARC seems to be doing a much better job than Audessey and is much more customizable (I like this), one area I find it lacking is in subwoofer phase setting. Audessey does this automatically, ARC requires you to do it yourself (and doesn't give you the tools to always get the right answer).
> 
> 
> Following the instructions I found in this thread: 1. Set measured distances in D2 2. Run ARC 3. Adjust phase in D2 with test tone, I think there is a situation where this won't give the ideal results. That is when a subwoofer has internal processing or a LPF that cannot be bypassed. In this case entering the real distances in the "listening position" table will not allow you to get phase exactly right. In this case you would need to delay the sound from the front speakers to match the subwoofer. Adjusting the phase in the subwoofer only delays the subwoofer more. What you need is to set the sub farther away to compensate for the processing delay, but there is no way to calculate this without experimentation. Just adjusting phase may get you an ok solution, but not the perfect solution. This is the situation I have in my 2 channel analog system where there is no way to add a delay to the front speakers.
> 
> 
> Audessey measures the time delay and automatically sets distances based on the time it takes the signal to travel through each speaker, not necessarily the physically measured distance. I think this is a +1 for Audessey, especially for less technically inclined users.
> 
> 
> In my case this was not an issue since I can bypass all processing in my subwoofer, but it is something users should be aware of.



If this is a limitation of ARC it is a very minor one for most and the room correction benefits of ARC over Audessey would be +10. I have used Audessey and now with ARC, I never look back









John


----------



## ManWithAPlan




Kensmith48 said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18692980
> 
> 
> Ken, FWIW, I received my D2V back from Anthem on Tuesday (yesterday). Anthem had possession of the unit in their Canadian factory for a total of 7 calendar days (received in the Anthem plant on Friday 5/14 and shipped away to me on 5/21). Seemed reasonable to me.
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> Brian, Thanks for the info.
> 
> Did they call or e-mail you with a progress report or inform you of any charges? I sent the unit to their facility in NY so I don't know how long it takes before they work on it in the Canadian plant. It's already been 7 calender days but as Bob pointed out -they had a 3 day holiday.
> 
> Ken
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I stayed on them via email, and yes, I got updates that way on progress. Keep in mind that you can forget measuring from when you sent it. Measure from when it got to the NY facility, then add a day for them to have their truck pick it up in NY and drive over the border thru customs, then start the timer from the moment it hits the Anthem plant in Ontario. You should be able to track the shipment and know the date that it got to NY office...add 1 day on that and then consider that to be the 1st day on site at Anthem HQ. Considering the holiday weekend as a loss of 1 other day, and I suspect you are still well within the 7 calendar days, seeing as you didn't send yours there until well after me.
> 
> 
> BTW, I totally understand your frustration at having to send this thing out at all and the impatience we both had in getting it back...but you're better off letting them do their thing to the unit in the long run, even if it does take a few extra days. Believe me, this was the LAST thing I wanted to do myself. If you could see my theater room right now, it looks like a tornado hit it. What I had to do to extract this unit from the rack, dismantling 3 zones of audio/video to get this out of its habitat to send this in, it was a total train wreck. But I decided it was now or never, get it done, get it over with, so that I don't have to wonder every time something goes wrong whether maybe I was suffering from a hardware issue that was still un-addressed. So, for long term peace of mind and taking care of my investment, I decided to suck it up and bite the bullet. Ask me on Monday whether I'm glad I did or not! It will literally take me the next 5 days to get it back in play and re-create my setup I had with the clean look that offers the full Wife Acceptance Factor that keeps peace in the home
> 
> 
> Courage and faith my friend - I am willing to believe that my unit and yours will be in very good shape now for years to come.
> 
> 
> -Brian
Click to expand...


----------



## TJG55

To all,

Mea culpa, there was a misunderstanding regarding permission to post them. I removed them. I have no disclosable info on new products.

Again, my apologies. I grovel in mortification. Just so excited, I jumped the gun.


Also, I have been informed that someone using my info has been trying to sell Anthem products through this forum.

I HAVE NOT AND WILL NOT SELL ANY ANTHEM PRODUCTS IN THIS OR ANY OTHER FORUM.

If anyone has more info on this misuse of my or my compan's name. please contact me.

TJG

tjg


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18693111
> 
> 
> If this is a limitation of ARC it is a very minor one for most and the room correction benefits of ARC over Audessey would be +10. I have used Audessey and now with ARC, I never look back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I agree that ARC is a much better solution than Audessey, at least the consumer version. And this is a minor limitation, but I just thought people should be aware of it. I think if you know about it, you can get the perfect integration through some experimentation.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/18693394
> 
> 
> I agree that ARC is a much better solution than Audessey, at least the consumer version. And this is a minor limitation, but I just thought people should be aware of it. I think if you know about it, you can get the perfect integration through some experimentation.



We do appreciate new info that will help people get the best solution. One point I will make referring to Audessey Pro, is that I don't need someone to come over everytime I want to experiment and I have done this many times to get my now, very good results, and charge me for it. The upfront cost of Audessey Pro is almost the cost of an AVM50v with ARC. I get good discounts







And now with the new Anthem receivers with ARC, it will be hard to go for other prod in this price range with Audessey. BTW the MSRP for the 3 receivers coming will be b/t $1K and $2K.

John


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/18693394
> 
> 
> I agree that ARC is a much better solution than Audessey, at least the consumer version. And this is a minor limitation, but I just thought people should be aware of it. I think if you know about it, you can get the perfect integration through some experimentation.



I use the SVS AS-EQ1 to get my subs right before running ARC. It makes the process of integration simple and gives you the best of both technologies. I'm not certain that I would need it for one sub, but for two or more, it's a real time saver.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New D2v / AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.08n (26May10) Now on Password Protected Download Page!*


Last evening, Anthem Tech Support placed D2v and AVM 50v "test" firmware V2.08n(26May10) on their password protected download page.


CAUTION: The PRIOR "test" version was ALSO V2.08n, and both that prior version and this new one will identify themselves only as "V2.08n" on the Select button displays after installation. Thus you must check the file name of the installer file itself to be sure you are using this new, (26May10) version which contains an additional important fix. I do not know why they reused the version number for this one.


Change notes for changes since the "official" V2.08 release now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.08n (26 May) beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for muting that sometimes occurs when switching away from HDMI sources.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08n beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Muting in previous beta also muted test tones in menu 5 and room resonance menu... fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08m beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Updated Dolby Volume calibration and user interface according to latest specification.
> 
> 
> 2. Muting modification to prevent or reduce noises associated with certain players when chapter-skipping Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD soundtracks.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08h beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Added HDMI-out bit depth options in menu 1. Try 8 or 10 bit settings if you're having trouble with a long HDMI output connection that worked reliably with older equipment.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed mode preset for 2-channel input.
> 
> 
> 3. Fixed test noises in room resonance and level calibration menus.
> 
> 
> 4. Dolby Volume - fixed level calibration.
> 
> 
> 5. Certain DD-1.0 soundtracks did not work - fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08e beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Adjusted Dolby Volume reference level such that Music level is closer to Off level (Movie is louder).
> 
> 
> 2. Improved accuracy of day/time clock.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08d beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Preliminary version with Dolby Volume. The menu layout and algorithm is not final but it's close - this is just for anyone interested to get a feel for what's in store. For operating instructions open d2v_manual v2.1.pdf and type "Dolby Volume" in your pdf viewer's search box.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08a beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Updated OKI bootloader to reduce chance of a video board programming failure and support restoring non-functioning video boards when a serial strap is installed.
> 
> 
> 2. Changes to HDCP code.
> 
> 
> 3. Changes to impedance and drive strength settings for HDMI switches.



I presume the fix in V2.08n(26May10) is intended to address the incorrect muting of analog video input (Component video and S-video, including the Setup menu display) which sometimes happened when switching FROM an HDMI source to an analog source, and which required a power cycle to cure.


As always, "test" software is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises requiring you to revert back to a prior version.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Installed "test" V2.08n(26May10). No problems. No surprises. Initial testing looks good.

--Bob


----------



## gonzalc3

Bob


i think you mentioned that you tested the oppo se...are the dacs in that unit better than the d2vs? I read someone posted that it was better to use the analogs instead of the hdmi...


----------



## greyflag

I swapped out my DSP and (DAC/ADC) converter boards today with parts sent by Anthem. Unfortunately, the noise is still there when switching sources, including on the setup menu. There were several posts on this 5 or 6 months ago. It's likely that the unit will take a short vacation in Ontario...


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18696257
> 
> *New D2v / AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.08n (26May10) Now on Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> Last evening, Anthem Tech Support placed D2v and AVM 50v "test" firmware V2.08n(26May10) on their password protected download page.
> 
> 
> CAUTION: The PRIOR "test" version was ALSO V2.08n, and both that prior version and this new one will identify themselves only as "V2.08n" on the Select button displays after installation. Thus you must check the file name of the installer file itself to be sure you are using this new, (26May10) version which contains an additional important fix. I do not know why they reused the version number for this one.
> 
> 
> Change notes for changes since the "official" V2.08 release now read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I presume the fix in V2.08n(26May10) is intended to address the incorrect muting of analog video input (Component video and S-video, including the Setup menu display) which sometimes happened when switching FROM an HDMI source to an analog source, and which required a power cycle to cure.
> 
> 
> As always, "test" software is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises requiring you to revert back to a prior version.
> 
> --Bob



Hmmm my problem is similiar where whenever I go from one source eg tv in zone 2 to my hometheater pc I have to turn on zone 1 power to get sound from zone 2 to kick in. Ill have to see if this resolves my issue finally on my d2v.


----------



## veneziana




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/18698400
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> i think you mentioned that you tested the oppo se...are the dacs in that unit better than the d2vs? I read someone posted that it was better to use the analogs instead of the hdmi...



Hi gonzalc, hi to all.... how have you set distance and large/small size and lfe filter in oppo?


thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/18698400
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> i think you mentioned that you tested the oppo se...are the dacs in that unit better than the d2vs? I read someone posted that it was better to use the analogs instead of the hdmi...



I have not tested an SE. I use a regular Oppo BDP-83.


My personal preference is to use HDMI audio, but I have tried the analog ouput from the regular 83 and find it quite good.


Keep in mind that to use ARC with an analog audio source you need to let the D2v re-digitize that analog input for processing. After which, of course, it goes through the D2v DACs *ANYWAY* for conversion back to analog for output.


Personally I think the advantages of using ARC far outweigh the differences in DAC quality that might be present.


If you do use ANALOG DSP you will leave it to the D2v to do all of the volume trimming and time alignment (speaker distances) as well. If you use ANALOG DIRECT to bypass the re-digitizing in the D2v you lose not only ARC, but also volume trimming and time alignment, which means you must make those adjustments in the Oppo.


When using ANALOG DSP, also remember to go into SETUP > ADC in the D2v and raise the re-digitizing rate for stereo analog input sources from the default 44.1KHz to 96KHz.

--Bob


----------



## EK21

Not sure if this is the right thread to post this on, but...

I purchased an Arcam AVR600 receiver, and have had a lot of problems, mostly HDMI-related, with pops, strange noises, different volume levels, et cetera. I've been through the usual routine of switching back and forth between sources, hard reboots, and software upgrades, with some success. The time may have come to move on to different gear, and I'm wondering if the Anthem AVM50v would fare better in this regard than the Arcam AV888.


Thanks in advance


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem has come a long way in improving their HDMI processing but you will still have problems from time to time.


Keep in mind that HDMI is an end-to-end protocol which is driven by the SOURCE device. And there are still quite a few source devices out there with flakey HDMI implementations. So sometimes there's not really anything an intervening device (like an AVR) can do except force a retry.


Also, the latest generation of hardware (1080p "Deep Color") puts a LOT more bandwidth on the HDMI cable. So some cables that worked just fine with 1080i 24bit video may prove incapable of handling 1080p 36bit video reliably. Anything that's in the cable path can be the culprit. Many folks have found that wall plates they use to clean up the cable run to a projector can't handle 1080p for example.


I don't really expect HDMI problems to ever go away completely. The type of cabling, and the protocols used for HDMI just aren't all that great for setting up the connection reliably -- especially when coupled with the finicky copy protection (HDCP) that the studios impose, which is DESIGNED to choke at the first hint of a signal problem. Fortunately, once the connection is eventually established, it is usually reliable for the duration of whatever you are playing -- unless you have a marginal cable setup.

--Bob


----------



## Woodley71

Wondering if Anthem will be coming up with an firmware update for the D2 any time soon... Hoping for better HDMI handshakes and possible Dolby Volume.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Woodley71* /forum/post/18706199
> 
> 
> Wondering if Anthem will be coming up with an firmware update for the D2 any time soon... Hoping for better HDMI handshakes and possible Dolby Volume.



I e-mailed Anthem a few weeks ago with the same question. I was told that there was going to be one more firmware update for the D2.

My guess is it will be concurrent with the next D2v firmware, or shortly there after.

There is a beta firmware on the Anthem password protected firmware site. It is v1.47f. Many have found it helped with handshake issues, but being beta firmware it does not have all the bugs worked out. ALSO it only is recommended for D2's that have the red video board and/or don't have the large donut shaped torrordial (sp?) tranformers.

Dolby volume, if I understand correctly, is not possible in the D2. I'm not sure if its a processor limitation or a hardware problem, but if you really want Dolby volume you will need to get a D2v.


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EK21* /forum/post/18706026
> 
> 
> Not sure if this is the right thread to post this on, but...
> 
> I purchased an Arcam AVR600 receiver, and have had a lot of problems, mostly HDMI-related, with pops, strange noises, different volume levels, et cetera. I've been through the usual routine of switching back and forth between sources, hard reboots, and software upgrades, with some success. The time may have come to move on to different gear, and I'm wondering if the Anthem AVM50v would fare better in this regard than the Arcam AV888.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance



Wait until 1.4 HDMI arrives and we have to go through this again.









John


----------



## EK21

Thanks, Bob. I've lowered my expectations with respect to HDMI compatibility between devices over the past year, but I'm also convinced that some companies are working harder at solving these problems than others. It seems more of an issue with some high-end kit where the company just doesn't have enough technical staff to keep working on the problems.

EK


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well sometimes it is the SOURCE that is having the problem with the high end AVR. For example, when the D2 was new Anthem discovered that some cable TV boxes would crash because they had a programmed-in assumption that anything they could ever be connected to would never exceed a certain maximum number of acceptable input video and audio format combos (in the reply when the source queries the AVR). Oops. Buffer overflow. Stupid programmer tricks.


Then there was the now-infamous problem of set top boxes that would ONLY work when directly connected to a TV. As soon as the set top box discovered there was something between it and the TV it just gave up. This is because it takes extra programming in the source to set up the connection to the TV when it has to talk through an intervening box.


The HDMI spec is *HUGE* (and much of it is recently added/changed) so it is no surprise that things get screwed up.


And now they want to add ethernet into the cable for HDMI V1.4. That should be fun. I'm waiting for the first post that reads, "My home wifi network dies every time I change TV channels!"

--Bob


----------



## EK21

Agreed, Bob. I know that OPPO worked some problems out at their end. And set-top cable boxes don't seem to even need HDMI to cause grief. This stuff reminds me of BACnet in the controls world. Everybody says that they're compliant, just so long as you use their products exclusively

EK


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EK21* /forum/post/18709097
> 
> 
> Agreed, Bob. I know that OPPO worked some problems out at their end. And set-top cable boxes don't seem to even need HDMI to cause grief. This stuff reminds me of BACnet in the controls world. Everybody says that they're compliant, just so long as you use their products exclusively
> 
> EK



I know for a fact Anthem has spent a lot of time trying to solve hdmi issues, and it aint fun









John


----------



## EK21

Thank you for the replies, seems like we all have to suffer for the sake of piracy protection, regardless of how effictive it may be. Still, any opinions on Anthem vs Arcam?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't know enough about the Arcam products to comment on their HDMI.


The D2v and AVM 50v seem to be in pretty good shape at this point for HDMI -- including tools for dealing with the more common problems such as needing to force a specific data format or the ability to limit "Deep Color" output to displays.


The latest "test" software version also appears to have cured the problems where analog video input sometimes got muted to black after viewing HDMI video input for a while.


Understand that things like HDMI handshake delays (e.g., when changing sources, resolution, or audio format) are built into the protocol, so those will never go away. That is, the protocol includes designed-in pauses during the handshake to allow the other devices a chance to figure out what the heck just happened. The spec calls for pauses long enough to allow the most dim-witted device a chance to catch up. So 2 seconds is about the minimum time for a new handshake -- more if retries are needed.


There are some remaining HDMI bugs, but they appear to be lesser priority stuff. For example, I still get noise when the audio format changes from my Pioneer Elite DV-59avi SD-DVD player. But since that is one of the first HDMI devices -- HDMI V1.0 if you can imagine that -- I have to make allowances.


Some other bugs recently fixed, such as inappropriate audio muting, were not in fact HDMI issues, but rather Anthem tweaking with another hard problem: How to detect when a new digital audio stream is real and not just noise, in a way that works across all the different possible combos of digital audio.


And of course new problems in SOURCE HDMI implementations keep cropping up. For example, Oppo's Blu-Ray players have improved their HDMI output with just about every firmware release -- including fixing a number of problems that were at first thought to be on the AVR side. Now the Oppo stuff is a new design, using the latest HDMI technology, which just goes to show that HDMI chips and chip firmware for source devices are still not quite baked yet.


I'll just add that Anthem also has some practical, HDMI problem solutions which THEY CAN NOT SELL due to "certification" restrictions in the HDMI spec. For example, the older D2 firmware had a setting called HDMI Repeater which meant you could make the D2 pretend it was a TV, which GREATLY simplifies the life of the Source devices. It then became the D2's job to handle the rest of the protocol to the actual TV, including making sure the copy protection worked. It was a clever idea, and worked very well with many, flakey source devices. But it violates certification rules for HDMI so Anthem had to pull it or lose their ability to label the product as HDMI V1.whatever in marketing.


On the hardware side of HDMI (chips and cables), I'm constantly amazed that it works at all. To give you just one taste, HDMI V1.3 greatly increased the bandwidth the hardware had to handle (1080p with at least 36 bit "Deep Color"). To make that work over useful cable lengths, the HDMI V1.3 chips were supposed to include dynamic signal equalization -- basically a way to reject degradation in the signal over the length of the cable. But the marketing pressure to get V1.3 out was so great that the first HDMI V1.3 chips DIDN'T INCLUDE THAT! So now you've got devices that need to apply dynamic equalization but only if the other end of the cable supports it. OK, no biggie, right? The chips prior to V1.3 didn't support it either. BUT the V1.3 chips that DON'T support it are, nevertheless, being sold in products that are MARKETED as V1.3 with all those high bandwidth features! Now technically, the makers aren't fibbing. If the cable is perfect, and the weather is nice and you have a downhill run at it, the signal will work even without the aid of dynamic equalization. At least some of the time....


And they can always blame any failures on the device at the other end of the cable.

--Bob


----------



## EK21

Thank you, Bob, for the straight goods. And JayRay is right to to fear the next round when 1.4 hits the streets.


EK


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


After a firmware upgrade we have the documented procedure about restoring to factory defaults and then restoring our user settings. But we do not have to re-upload our ARC calculations, right?

Why is that so? Where are these ARC calculations kept? Within the user settings?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC Uploads settings into the Setup menu which get restored when you reload your Saved User or Installer Settings (presuming you remembered to save them in the first place after your last ARC Upload).


ARC also Uploads Room Correction parameters into a special part of memory that you can not see. That stuff is NOT saved as part of saving User or Installer Settings. Anthem says that part of memory is not altered by a Reload Factory Defaults nor by installing new firmware. The only way to get rid of it is to do an Erase from the ARC application.


Now that said, as long as I have the cable hooked up anyway, it is always my practice to do a re-Upload of my latest ARC results after each firmware install, "just in case". A re-Upload also deals with cases where you are not certain you have your latest ARC Setup menu settings stashed in User or Installer Settings.


So:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults, power off

3) Do the firmware install

4) Load Saved User Settings, power off

5) Upload latest ARC results ("just in case")

6) Save User Settings and Save Installer Settings


As a preliminary step before the Reload Factory Defaults, you also might want to make a backup of your Setup menu on your PC (Settings Backup utility) and a backup of your Video Source Adjust menu on your PC (Live Video Settings Editor utility -- Get from processor and Save to PC file). Your ARC results file serves as your backup of your ARC settings on your PC as you can always re-Upload from it to get both the Room Correction parameters and ARC's choices for Setup menu settings into the processor.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Just got a Paradigm Sub 25 to replace my 2 yr. old Servo 15 v2. Did a new measurement with the Sub 25 in the exact same place as my Servo was (as some of you may remember I moved it from the corner up the side wall and got far more db in the 100 Hz range. Well the diff with this sub is now at a new level. If anyone thinks, as mentioned on another thread, that BD has a restriction of 25 Hz. for LFE, they need this sub. There is so much below 20 Hz which my servo couldn't do. I am now in LFE heaven with what ARC did to it.

John

PS. Bob, I moved it around and did some measurements but each time it created a problem. Nick wondered if I had moved it back to the front corner to test your hypothesis re the servo in corners but I hadn't. Maybe some other time as it is very heavy and hard for one person to move.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

What? You didn't spring for the optional forklift?

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18712675
> 
> 
> What? You didn't spring for the optional forklift?
> 
> --Bob



Got a great deal from my dealer who had a demo. They let me take it home and try it. Sort of like drug dealers giving free samples. Needless to say with ARC, I can't believe how much better it sounds. Nick wasn't sure the extra SPL and deeper Hz levels would make a diff in my room but it certainly does.









The weight on Paradigms website states 114 lbs. for the servo and sub 25. The sub 25 feels heavier so who knows.


John


----------



## Texas steve

Yep, have to agree when I got the Sub25 (powered by dedicated 220v line), what a HUGE difference. Wow!!!!

























> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18712653
> 
> 
> Just got a Paradigm Sub 25 to replace my 2 yr. old Servo 15 v2. Did a new measurement with the Sub 25 in the exact same place as my Servo was (as some of you may remember I moved it from the corner up the side wall and got far more db in the 100 Hz range. Well the diff with this sub is now at a new level. If anyone thinks, as mentioned on another thread, that BD has a restriction of 25 Hz. for LFE, they need this sub. There is so much below 20 Hz which my servo couldn't do. I am now in LFE heaven with what ARC did to it.
> 
> John
> 
> PS. Bob, I moved it around and did some measurements but each time it created a problem. Nick wondered if I had moved it back to the front corner to test your hypothesis re the servo in corners but I hadn't. Maybe some other time as it is very heavy and hard for one person to move.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18712727
> 
> 
> Yep, have to agree when I got the Sub25 (powered by dedicated 220v line), what a HUGE difference. Wow!!!!



Did you try it with the 120v and 240v? If so what did you notice?

John


----------



## Texas steve

I had to put in a dedicated line either way so I just went for a 220 vs 110, so unfortunatley I did not test both ways. But this sub is fablous!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18713005
> 
> 
> Did you try it with the 120v and 240v? If so what did you notice?
> 
> John


----------



## emailtim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18713468
> 
> 
> I had to put in a dedicated line either way so I just went for a 220 vs 110, so unfortunatley I did not test both ways. But this sub is fablous!



Did/could you post your sub's in-room plot ?


Thanks,

Tim


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *emailtim* 
Did/could you post your sub's in-room plot ?


Thanks,

Tim
Here's mine. This doesn't look any better than my plot using the Servo 15. Nick said this would happen. However, listening indicates something completely different. What you don't see is the extension below 20 Hz. It is night and day. Tight as a drum, fast response, subsonic extension and with very little effort.

John

 

Sub 25.doc 23k . file


----------



## emailtim

Too bad the ARC doesn't plot below 20Hz.


Thanks for the post.


----------



## ASW

I recently changed my RTI remote from IR control to serial control for my D2v's volume. When I push volume up or down on my remote, the D2v moves by 10db instead of in .5db increments. Any thoughts?


----------



## netroamer

After loading the 2.08n (5/26) firmware, I tried to switch between HDMI and the Setup Menu, after a couple of hours of viewing in HDMI, and , again, nothing...just a black screen. I also tried to switch to a component source and the same thing. Has anyone had better success?


----------



## Shrike645

This link shows the MX500 at Munich's high end 2010

http://www.goodsound.com/index.php?o...id=51&Itemid=3


----------



## tro7278

All,


I am a newb to the Anthem world will receive my D2v this afternoon and have a few quesitons?


First a little about my system. I have Thiel 7.2Cs up front with an MCS center and SCS4 surrounds and an SS2 sub. All the above are new to me as I am building out my new HT/Listening room. I have a Thiel PXO5 passive crossover that Thiel programed for me to manage bass. Front are driven by two Odyssey Stratos Extremes and center and rears by an Emotiva 3 channel.

I also have a 65" in Panasonic Plasma that has 1920X1080 native resolution.


I currently have a Odyssey Candella two channel preamp that I want to figure out how to keep in the system for pure two channel listening so my first question is how best to go about that.


Second with the Anthem and Arc should I get rid of the PXO5 passive crossover and let Anthem/Arc manage my speakers? Thiel said to leave it in and run ARC.


Lastly I have a Oppo BDP-83SE can someone save me the trial and error as it relates to setup config? I use it for two channel and multichannel.


I am sure I will have more but thought I would start here.


Thanks In Advance Tim


----------



## politby

Greetings,


I am about to receive the ARC upgrade kit for my AVM 50. This upgrade requires replacing the DSP board.


Anyone who has performed this operation on an AVM 50? It looks like the HDMI input board is the uppermost one so I suspect I will need to remove board(s) to get to the DSP board.


I have plenty of experience building computers but I have never performed surgery on AV gear. Will it be evident what to do once I get the cover off?


thanks


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18715210
> 
> 
> After loading the 2.08n (5/26) firmware, I tried to switch between HDMI and the Setup Menu, after a couple of hours of viewing in HDMI, and , again, nothing...just a black screen. I also tried to switch to a component source and the same thing. Has anyone had better success?



I have not had that issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18715210
> 
> 
> After loading the 2.08n (5/26) firmware, I tried to switch between HDMI and the Setup Menu, after a couple of hours of viewing in HDMI, and , again, nothing...just a black screen. I also tried to switch to a component source and the same thing. Has anyone had better success?



After downloading this newest release of V2.08n are you sure you executed that installer and not the older one that might also still be on your computer?


Since installing the the new version, the problem you report appears to have gone away on my D2v -- i.e., the fix stated in the Change Notes appears to be working on my unit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/18715053
> 
> 
> I recently changed my RTI remote from IR control to serial control for my D2v's volume. When I push volume up or down on my remote, the D2v moves by 10db instead of in .5db increments. Any thoughts?



Check the serial command you are sending for Volume Up and Volume Down. As described in the XLS file containing the serial port command definitions (found in the ARC V2.4 install kit), if the numeric parameter is present then the volume increases or decreases by that amount. Otherwise it increases or decreases by 0.5dB.


Another possibility is that your remote is sending multiple commands. IR commands are often sent more than once to make sure the device receives them and doesn't reject them, but there should be no need for that with serial commands, and of course you don't want to do it with Volume Up/Down.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18713813
> 
> 
> Here's mine. This doesn't look any better than my plot using the Servo 15. Nick said this would happen. However, listening indicates something completely different. What you don't see is the extension below 20 Hz. It is night and day. Tight as a drum, fast response, subsonic extension and with very little effort.
> 
> John



It is likely the difference is that your Servo 15 was only capable of the lowest frequencies at low volume -- enough so that the ARC sweep tones worked but not enough to match what the Sub 25 can do when higher volume content is present down there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18715898
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I am about to receive the ARC upgrade kit for my AVM 50. This upgrade requires replacing the DSP board.
> 
> 
> Anyone who has performed this operation on an AVM 50? It looks like the HDMI input board is the uppermost one so I suspect I will need to remove board(s) to get to the DSP board.
> 
> 
> I have plenty of experience building computers but I have never performed surgery on AV gear. Will it be evident what to do once I get the cover off?
> 
> 
> thanks



The new board will come with a simple instruction sheet. You won't find the swap out to be any problem. Just as with computer gear, take static electricity precautions so that you don't zap any of the electronics you might touch.


The one thing you can easily forget to do however is that AFTER you install the new board you must re-install the firmware to initialize that board. You can download the firmware installer from Anthem's web site. V1.33 is the "official" version. If you have been using the Beta "test" software, V1.47f is the current "test" version (only found on Anthem's password protected download page). Do the firmware re-install just as if you were installing it for the first time, i.e., don't skip any steps (Reload Factory Defaults and remove wall power from HDMI Source and Display devices prior to the re-install).

--Bob


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18716080
> 
> 
> Check the serial command you are sending for Volume Up and Volume Down. As described in the XLS file containing the serial port command definitions (found in the ARC V2.4 install kit), if the numeric parameter is present then the volume increases or decreases by that amount. Otherwise it increases or decreases by 0.5dB.
> 
> 
> Another possibility is that your remote is sending multiple commands. IR commands are often sent more than once to make sure the device receives them and doesn't reject them, but there should be no need for that with serial commands, and of course you don't want to do it with Volume Up/Down.
> 
> --Bob



Actually, you will likely want it to send repeated commands so that you can hold down the button and make larger adjustments than the minimum increment. You should be able to set the delay time between repeats so that if you quickly press the button, you only get 0.5 db, but if you hold the button, you can get a large change.


I have a Phillips Pronto Pro 9400 and a serial controller connected to my AVM-50 and my Oppo BD-83. It works wonderfully via serial and I would never go back...



Ed


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tro7278* /forum/post/18715872
> 
> 
> All,
> 
> 
> I am a newb to the Anthem world will receive my D2v this afternoon and have a few quesitons?
> 
> 
> First a little about my system. I have Thiel 7.2Cs up front with an MCS center and SCS4 surrounds and an SS2 sub. All the above are new to me as I am building out my new HT/Listening room. I have a Thiel PXO5 passive crossover that Thiel programed for me to manage bass. Front are driven by two Odyssey Stratos Extremes and center and rears by an Emotiva 3 channel.
> 
> I also have a 65" in Panasonic Plasma that has 1920X1080 native resolution.
> 
> 
> I currently have a Odyssey Candella two channel preamp that I want to figure out how to keep in the system for pure two channel listening so my first question is how best to go about that.
> 
> 
> Second with the Anthem and Arc should I get rid of the PXO5 passive crossover and let Anthem/Arc manage my speakers? Thiel said to leave it in and run ARC.
> 
> 
> Lastly I have a Oppo BDP-83SE can someone save me the trial and error as it relates to setup config? I use it for two channel and multichannel.
> 
> 
> I am sure I will have more but thought I would start here.
> 
> 
> Thanks In Advance Tim



Typically you want to remove any external crossover electronics and let the Anthem do all that work. As I recall, the Thiel passive crossovers try to mix LFE and also bass from the main speakers sending higher frequencies to the main speakers and only the lower frequencies to the sub. If you have them wired up that way and run ARC, ARC will not be able to hear the true capabilities of either your mains or the sub as not all the test tone frequencies will get to them.


There are various ways to set up a separate 2-channel analog audio path depending upon what convenience features you want to apply to that path via the Anthem. At one extreme you can bypass the Anthem altogether -- which means you will need a source selector prior the input of your power amps. Possibly your pre-amp can do that. A number of folks here have done separate 2-channel setups so perhaps some will chime in with suggestions.


I don't have the time right now to repost my Oppo settings suggestions, but if you do a search on my posts for the Oppo in this thread it will likely turn up as I've posted them several times. One thing you will have to decide is if you want to use Analog audio from the SE for either 2-channel or for multi-channel.


Keep in mind that if you want to apply ARC in the Anthem, you will need to let it re-digitize that analog input -- and then of course convert it back to analog for output. So you may want to just use HDMI audio from the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/18716162
> 
> 
> Actually, you will likely want it to send repeated commands so that you can hold down the button and make larger adjustments than the minimum increment. You should be able to set the delay time between repeats so that if you quickly press the button, you only get 0.5 db, but if you hold the button, you can get a large change.
> 
> 
> I have a Phillips Pronto Pro 9400 and a serial controller connected to my AVM-50 and my Oppo BD-83. It works wonderfully via serial and I would never go back...
> 
> 
> 
> Ed



The repeated commands I was talking about was where 1 button press sends a command code 2 or 3 times. Some devices (not the Anthem) won't accept an IR code if it only comes in once. Since he just set up the serial stuff, his remote might be doing that repeat-count stuff by default.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18716058
> 
> 
> After downloading this newest release of V2.08n are you sure you executed that installer and not the older one that might also still be on your computer?
> 
> 
> Since installing the the new version, the problem you report appears to have gone away on my D2v -- i.e., the fix stated in the Change Notes appears to be working on my unit.
> 
> --Bob



I deleted the old 2.08n from my desktop and extracted the 5/26 to my desktop and started the upgrade process. I have no reason to believe that the the old 2.08n was loaded instead of the 5/26.

I'll be evaluating a new projector in a few days. I'll wait to see if there may be a HDMI issue with my current G-90 using a second generation moome HDMI card.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18716476
> 
> 
> I deleted the old 2.08n from my desktop and extracted the 5/26 to my desktop and started the upgrade process. I have no reason to believe that the the old 2.08n was loaded instead of the 5/26.
> 
> I'll be evaluating a new projector in a few days. I'll wait to see if there may be a HDMI issue with my current G-90 using a second generation moome HDMI card.



GOOD LUCK John - with your CRT PJ. I used probably the 1st Gen

Moome with my RUNCO PJ back when PJ's were still CRT BASED.

It worked fine with my Brand New D2 at the Time.


Since I dumped my dual Runco's I have gone through 4 generations

of Solid State PJs. I LOVE the NEW PJs.


----------



## greyflag

To Bob and All:


After further consultation with Anthem Tech Support, there is no need to send my AVM50 in for service. Aside from loading 1.47f (which I have done) and swapping out the DSP and converter boards (ditto) there is no other fix for the noise issue when switching sources. I know this issue was well documented here several months ago, but I figured that I'd try to resolve it on my AVM50 anyway. Therefore, I plan on making good use of the mute button when necessary and enjoying the processor.


I am somewhat disappointed that this cannot be resolved given the cost of the processor and upgrade, but it is not a deal breaker. Whether it is an HDMI implementation issue or something else is way above my pay grade...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greyflag* /forum/post/18716782
> 
> 
> To Bob and All:
> 
> 
> After further consultation with Anthem Tech Support, there is no need to send my AVM50 in for service. Aside from loading 1.47f (which I have done) and swapping out the DSP and converter boards (ditto) there is no other fix for the noise issue when switching sources. I know this issue was well documented here several months ago, but I figured that I'd try to resolve it on my AVM50 anyway. Therefore, I plan on making good use of the mute button when necessary and enjoying the processor.
> 
> 
> I am somewhat disappointed that this cannot be resolved given the cost of the processor and upgrade, but it is not a deal breaker. Whether it is an HDMI implementation issue or something else is way above my pay grade...



I had this issue with my AVM 50 and the mute button became the solution for me. An irritation but considering the sound I was getting, It stopped bugging me. Enjoy.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18716986
> 
> 
> I had this issue with my AVM 50 and the mute button became the solution for me. An irritation but considering the sound I was getting, It stopped bugging me. Enjoy.
> 
> John



With a GOOD Control System - you can program in the MUTE

and UNMUTE whenever you switch sources.


----------



## dbphd

My interest in a D2 or D2V is for surround via HDMI with my Sony XA5400ES CD/SACD player. Video processing is done by a DVDO Edge, with HDMI video sent directly to the projector; the Edge would feed audio via HDMI from a PS3-80 and DirecTV HD-DVR to the Anthem. I could move the Edge to another system and let the Anthem do video processing. How does the D2V differ from the D2, and is that difference important for my application?


db


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18716476
> 
> 
> I deleted the old 2.08n from my desktop and extracted the 5/26 to my desktop and started the upgrade process. I have no reason to believe that the the old 2.08n was loaded instead of the 5/26.
> 
> I'll be evaluating a new projector in a few days. I'll wait to see if there may be a HDMI issue with my current G-90 using a second generation moome HDMI card.



Please send an email to Anthem tech support with the details of your setup and what you did to make the failure happen.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18716080
> 
> 
> Check the serial command you are sending for Volume Up and Volume Down. As described in the XLS file containing the serial port command definitions (found in the ARC V2.4 install kit), if the numeric parameter is present then the volume increases or decreases by that amount. Otherwise it increases or decreases by 0.5dB.
> 
> 
> Another possibility is that your remote is sending multiple commands. IR commands are often sent more than once to make sure the device receives them and doesn't reject them, but there should be no need for that with serial commands, and of course you don't want to do it with Volume Up/Down.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbphd* /forum/post/18717352
> 
> 
> My interest in a D2 or D2V is for surround via HDMI with my Sony XA5400ES CD/SACD player. Video processing is done by a DVDO Edge, with HDMI video sent directly to the projector; the Edge would feed audio via HDMI from a PS3-80 and DirecTV HD-DVR to the Anthem. I could move the Edge to another system and let the Anthem do video processing. How does the D2V differ from the D2, and is that difference important for my application?
> 
> 
> db



If you want to explore letting the Anthem do all the video processing then the D2v is definitely the way to go as it has the newest generation of the Sigma Designs video processor -- including 36 bit video end to end, and a number of other improvements.


On the audio side, the D2v supports digital audio input up to 7.1 channels at up to 192KHz whereas the D2 has limits of 5.1 and 96KHz respectively for digital audio input. The D2v also supports decoding of lossless bitstream formats (TrueHD and DTS-HD MA) whereas the D2 should be used with Source devices that do all the decoding themselves (such as your PS3). The TV stuff doesn't use lossless formats so that doesn't matter either way.


Those are probably the most important differences. Basically if you appreciate what the Edge does and would like to have the option to match that using the Anthem alone, then my recommendation would be to go for the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18716095
> 
> 
> It is likely the difference is that your Servo 15 was only capable of the lowest frequencies at low volume -- enough so that the ARC sweep tones worked but not enough to match what the Sub 25 can do when higher volume content is present down there.
> 
> --Bob



I agree Bob, something a well designed sub should do so it doesn't blow, ie. the servo









John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tro7278* /forum/post/18715872
> 
> 
> All,
> 
> 
> I am a newb to the Anthem world will receive my D2v this afternoon and have a few quesitons?
> 
> 
> First a little about my system. I have Thiel 7.2Cs up front with an MCS center and SCS4 surrounds and an SS2 sub. All the above are new to me as I am building out my new HT/Listening room. I have a Thiel PXO5 passive crossover that Thiel programed for me to manage bass. Front are driven by two Odyssey Stratos Extremes and center and rears by an Emotiva 3 channel.
> 
> I also have a 65" in Panasonic Plasma that has 1920X1080 native resolution.
> 
> 
> I currently have a Odyssey Candella two channel preamp that I want to figure out how to keep in the system for pure two channel listening so my first question is how best to go about that.
> 
> 
> Second with the Anthem and Arc should I get rid of the PXO5 passive crossover and let Anthem/Arc manage my speakers? Thiel said to leave it in and run ARC.
> 
> 
> Lastly I have a Oppo BDP-83SE can someone save me the trial and error as it relates to setup config? I use it for two channel and multichannel.
> 
> 
> I am sure I will have more but thought I would start here.
> 
> 
> Thanks In Advance Tim



Tim:


Here are my settings I posted a few days ago for the Oppo SE with my AVM50v: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post18666049


----------



## dbphd

Thanks, Bob. The information was quite helpful. I'm now using a Proceed PAV/PDSD pre/pro that sounds very good for 2.1 stereo via XLR from the 5400ES and for 5.1 via optical from the Edge with PS3 and HD-DVR sources. If I am to update the pre/pro, I might as well include the lossless codecs, so it looks like a D2V would be my choice.


I have been considering a Cary Cinema 11a for its audio quality, but the bugs are scary, and no one advises using its DRC. An Integra 80.1 and a preamp with HT bypass is another option, but at some point there has to be D to A conversion and I'm not sure about the quality of that.


I've never read anything but praise for Anthem and its DRC, but its audio quality may not match that of the Cinema 11a. Unfortunately, it's not practical to try these various processors in my system.


db


----------



## DenonLover

I currently have a Denon 4308Ci and I am looking to upgrade to the Denon 4311CI when it comes out later this year. You can see by my name that I am blindly loyal once I find a brand I like and more importantly get use to the GUI. I pick up my new Paradigm Studio 100s, CC-690 center and 590 rears tomorrow at 3pm. PB13 Ultra for the sub in the coming weeks.


Question: What would be a good Anthem set up that would properly power my speakers without breaking the bank?


I do not want to blindly keep doing the same thing and everyone keeps telling me to go this direction so I want to take an honest look. Thank you.


----------



## kyse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/18715523
> 
> 
> This link shows the MX500 at Munich's high end 2010
> 
> http://www.goodsound.com/index.php?o...id=51&Itemid=3



not MX500 but MRX500


----------



## DenonLover

We have a winner. Anthem MRX A/V receiver series. Expected to retail for around $2000. This puts them in reach.


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18716133
> 
> 
> The new board will come with a simple instruction sheet. You won't find the swap out to be any problem. Just as with computer gear, take static electricity precautions so that you don't zap any of the electronics you might touch.
> 
> 
> The one thing you can easily forget to do however is that AFTER you install the new board you must re-install the firmware to initialize that board. You can download the firmware installer from Anthem's web site. V1.33 is the "official" version. If you have been using the Beta "test" software, V1.47f is the current "test" version (only found on Anthem's password protected download page). Do the firmware re-install just as if you were installing it for the first time, i.e., don't skip any steps (Reload Factory Defaults and remove wall power from HDMI Source and Display devices prior to the re-install).
> 
> --Bob



Is the 1.47f really available for the AVM50? Any reason why I would want to update from 1.33?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18719589
> 
> 
> Is the 1.47f really available for the AVM50? Any reason why I would want to update from 1.33?



It is "test" firmware -- not "official" yet. It does not work on all production runs of the AVM 50. If your video board (the big board at the top right under the top vents) is colored red, OR if you see that your power supply does NOT contain the big toroidal (donut shaped) transformer -- also visible through the top vents -- then your unit is OK for V1.47f.


If your video board is gray or green AND your power supply contains the donut, then your unit might still be OK for V1.47f, but there is no easy way for you to tell.


V1.47f is only on Anthem's password protected download page. The main advantage is that it includes HDMI improvements ported from the D2v firmware. Some folks have also reported audio quality improvements with it, but I know of no logical reason for that. Possibly it was just time for them to redo their ARC setup anyway.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenonLover* /forum/post/18719574
> 
> 
> We have a winner. Anthem MRX A/V receiver series. Expected to retail for around $2000. This puts them in reach.



If your budget can stand it, keep in mind that the AVM 50v or D2v prepros will produce better audio and video. For example the ARC solution in the new receivers will have less resources to work with than found in the prepros.


On the other hand, the new receivers include some additional features not found in the prepros yet.

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18719718
> 
> 
> It is "test" firmware -- not "official" yet. It does not work on all production runs of the AVM 50. If your video board (the big board at the top right under the top vents) is colored red, OR if you see that your power supply does NOT contain the big toroidal (donut shaped) transformer -- also visible through the top vents -- then your unit is OK for V1.47f.
> 
> 
> If your video board is gray or green AND your power supply contains the donut, then your unit might still be OK for V1.47f, but there is no easy way for you to tell.
> 
> 
> V1.47f is only on Anthem's password protected download page. The main advantage is that it includes HDMI improvements ported from the D2v firmware. Some folks have also reported audio quality improvements with it, but I know of no logical reason for that. Possibly it was just time for them to redo their ARC setup anyway.
> 
> --Bob



Back in Message 28218 KenSmith48 said he had talked to Andrew at Anthem and that 1.47f was now supposed to work for black and red video boards. Do we have a confirmation of this?


----------



## DenonLover




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18719724
> 
> 
> If your budget can stand it, keep in mind that the AVM 50v or D2v prepros will produce better audio and video. For example the ARC solution in the new receivers will have less resources to work with than found in the prepros.
> 
> 
> On the other hand, the new receivers include some additional features not found in the prepros yet.
> 
> --Bob



We could afford the 50V or the D2V but I need to stay married and committing to a system that gets me 80% of the way there would be a huge benefit for us and as long as the value proposition is there I really think this could be a great compromise and allow me to get the right amp to power our speakers. I will really be looking forward to reading more about this unit.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/18719846
> 
> 
> Back in Message 28218 (I need to figure out how to post a link) KenSmith48 said he had talked to Andrew at Anthem and that 1.47f was now supposed to work for black and red video boards. Do we have a confirmation of this?



We do not, and I don't know how that would jibe with the fact that when V1.47 first appeared -- before we knew there might be an issue -- some posters here tried it and found it did not work on their hardware. The caution to only use it with some hardware came after that, and as far as I know there's been no change to the software that would alter that.


Also as far as I know, there is no "black" video board. There are red, green and gray. Red definitely works (regardless of power supply). Green and gray MAY work. If you don't have the donut in your power supply, then whatever video board you have will definitely work. If you have a green or gray video board AND have the donut in your power supply it is still possible your hardware might work, but there is no easy way for you to tell.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenonLover* /forum/post/18719875
> 
> 
> We could afford the 50V or the D2V but I need to stay married and committing to a system that gets me 80% of the way there would be a huge benefit for us and as long as the value proposition is there I really think this could be a great compromise and allow me to get the right amp to power our speakers. I will really be looking forward to reading more about this unit.



I had an AVM 50 with ARC, using Studio 100s, CC-690 fronts and a servo 15. This was powered with Anthem A2 and A5 amps. This was a very good sounding combo better than any of my friends who have the latest denons with similar speakers but no ARC, just Audessey. No comparison by mine and their admissions. I have since upgraded to a D2v and Paradigm Sub 25. If you decide you can afford the D2v, I will tell you what it sounds like now









John


----------



## jayray

Has anyone done an ARC measurment who is using firmware 2.08n May 26? I have noticed, now twice, when doing measurements, that there is a short high freq. burst just before the test tone starts. In past measurements it started with the low freq part of the sweep.

John


----------



## DenonLover




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18720186
> 
> 
> I had an AVM 50 with ARC, using Studio 100s, CC-690 fronts and a servo 15. This was powered with Anthem A2 and A5 amps. This was a very good sounding combo better than any of my friends who have the latest denons with similar speakers but no ARC, just Audessey. No comparison by mine and their admissions. I have since upgraded to a D2v and Paradigm Sub 25. If you decide you can afford the D2v, I will tell you what it sounds like now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I wish I could do an ABC test with the Denon and the D2 or AVM50 for that matter. Remember the old Pepsi blind taste tests where you found out if you were a Coke customer or a Pepsi customer? I think there should be places for regular guys like me to hear these side by side so I could decide once and for all if I really need to step up to a better unit.


There is no doubt it sounds better but I wish I could hear for myself and in the same room.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My favorite test story like that is the focus group where the people were herded into a room with a big table holding notepads, pens, and cups, and were then asked to write down their thoughts comparing two unlabeled sodas that were poured into the cups for them.


As it turns out, the two sodas were actually the same soda. Which led to some interesting, but irrelevant responses as the purpose of the focus group was actually to see which style of notepads and pens they chose out of the pile on the table.


-----------------------------------


The problem with comparing sophisticated audio equipment like this is that there's no point in doing the comparison unless you can take the time to make sure both units are set up properly -- including ARC on the Anthems for example. That can take some time.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There's another thread in this forum where folks are discussing the upcoming Anthem receivers. Some basic stats and prices are being bandied about. I've got no idea how accurate any of that is.


What we know for sure is that Anthem has said it will launch 2 of the 4 receiver models (MRX 500 and MRX 700) at a show in New York on June 22. At the moment there is nothing new on the Caster Communications site; i.e., the company Anthem and Paradigm use for PR stuff like press releases.

--Bob


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is "test" firmware -- not "official" yet. It does not work on all production runs of the AVM 50. If your video board (the big board at the top right under the top vents) is colored red, OR if you see that your power supply does NOT contain the big toroidal (donut shaped) transformer -- also visible through the top vents -- then your unit is OK for V1.47f.
> 
> 
> If your video board is gray or green AND your power supply contains the donut, then your unit might still be OK for V1.47f, but there is no easy way for you to tell.
> 
> 
> V1.47f is only on Anthems password protected download page. The main advantage is that it includes HDMI improvements ported from the D2v firmware. Some folks have also reported audio quality improvements with it, but I know of no logical reason for that. Possibly it was just time for them to redo their ARC setup anyway.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob


My unit has the read main board AND the toriodal transformer - so I guess I could try the beta version after I have swapped DSP boards.


I assume I need to Ask Anthem for access to the beta?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenonLover* /forum/post/18720273
> 
> 
> I wish I could do an ABC test with the Denon and the D2 or AVM50 for that matter. Remember the old Pepsi blind taste tests where you found out if you were a Coke customer or a Pepsi customer? I think there should be places for regular guys like me to hear these side by side so I could decide once and for all if I really need to step up to a better unit.
> 
> 
> There is no doubt it sounds better but I wish I could hear for myself and in the same room.



I also had a denon 3808 with this system, same room, diff speakers. BTW, it isn't just me who says this, my friends with Denons also confirm this, so loyalty wasn't a factor for them









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18720469
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob
> 
> 
> My unit has the read main board AND the toriodal transformer - so I guess I could try the beta version after I have swapped DSP boards.
> 
> 
> I assume I need to Ask Anthem for access to the beta?



Yes.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18720373
> 
> 
> There's another thread in this forum where folks are discussing the upcoming Anthem receivers. Some basic stats and prices are being bandied about. I've got no idea how accurate any of that is.
> 
> 
> What we know for sure is that Anthem has said it will launch 2 of the 4 receiver models (MRX 500 and MRX 700) at a show in New York on June 22. At the moment there is nothing new on the Caster Communications site; i.e., the company Anthem and Paradigm use for PR stuff like press releases.
> 
> --Bob



Two models will be shown at Cedia in the fall nothing in the spring. They will be the MRX 500 and 700 models.

John


----------



## Kensmith48

I was on the Widescreen Review website and it looks like in issue 148 the D2v is being reviewed along with the 5 channel amp. I haven't rec'd my issue yet but it should be a good read.


----------



## favorini




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18720373
> 
> 
> What we know for sure is that Anthem has said it will launch 2 of the 4 receiver models (MRX 500 and MRX 700) at a show in New York on June 22. At the moment there is nothing new on the Caster Communications site; i.e., the company Anthem and Paradigm use for PR stuff like press releases.
> 
> --Bob



Here's the post at Caster Comm. that mentions MRX 500 and 700 debuting at CEA. Nothing more recent on that site. I don't know how official this is. Nothing shows up on Anthem's site .


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18720530
> 
> 
> I also had a denon 3808 with this system, same room, diff speakers. BTW, it isn't just me who says this, my friends with Denons also confirm this, so loyalty wasn't a factor for them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Never ever going back to a receiver. I got my amps out of the integrated box when I had a receiver and never going back now with my current AVM-50. My Aragon amps blow any receiver amps away hands down...


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenonLover* /forum/post/18719875
> 
> 
> We could afford the 50V or the D2V but I need to stay married and committing to a system that gets me 80% of the way there would be a huge benefit for us and as long as the value proposition is there I really think this could be a great compromise and allow me to get the right amp to power our speakers. I will really be looking forward to reading more about this unit.



Avm50v and the A2 A5 combo is an amazing value. I currently use the 50v coming from a D2 and the original AVM50 with no regrets. I had an A2 powering 4 passive DIY subs in my room and it never strained or felt hot to the touch at any given time. I had to part with my A2 because I bought 2 Servo 15s.


Most receivers, when driving all channels at the same time cannot meet half of their specified power rating anyway. This I believe is a big compelling reason why separates sound better than receivers.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *favorini* /forum/post/18721136
> 
> 
> Here's the post at Caster Comm. that mentions MRX 500 and 700 debuting at CEA. Nothing more recent on that site. I don't know how official this is. Nothing shows up on Anthem's site .



My sources tell me now that they will be early versions but with cosmetics close enough to production spec (September).

John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18720530
> 
> 
> I also had a denon 3808 with this system, same room, diff speakers. BTW, it isn't just me who says this, my friends with Denons also confirm this, so loyalty wasn't a factor for them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John




I too had the Denon 3808 before my D2v, what I have noticed is that the Denon had much quicker handshakes but the D2v has much better sound especially from my subs (Parardigm 15" Servo and a 15" Signature Servo).


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18723007
> 
> 
> I too had the Denon 3808 before my D2v, what I have noticed is that the Denon had much quicker handshakes but the D2v has much better sound especially from my subs (Parardigm 15" Servo and a 15" Signature Servo).



I didn't use hdmi with mine but the D2v with ARC is a difficult combo to beat. In fairness to the Denon, the prices are not comparable







Do you get enough SPL with those two subs









John


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18723074
> 
> 
> I didn't use hdmi with mine but the D2v with ARC is a difficult combo to beat. In fairness to the Denon, the prices are not comparable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get enough SPL with those two subs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



You don't compare D2V with Denon receivers, but is in the same league with the AVP.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18723105
> 
> 
> You don't compare D2V with Denon receivers, but is in the same league with the AVP.



Without ARC No, IMHO. I understand it is an unfair comparison which I believe I did acknowledge

John


----------



## DenonLover

What do most Anthem users consider prior to a purchase? Is there a brand that most people cross shop for HT and music?


See Page 4 of this online review of the D2V. LINK


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18723074
> 
> 
> I didn't use hdmi with mine but the D2v with ARC is a difficult combo to beat. In fairness to the Denon, the prices are not comparable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get enough SPL with those two subs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Funny you should ask as I have been after more SPL since the beginning. I do not have enough and will be re-doing my room to try to get more. I am lacking SPL at extremely high levels of music but am sure I will hear a difference when I get my subs into a better position, right now they are in the best position I can get considering how my room is set up now.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenonLover* /forum/post/18723686
> 
> 
> What do most Anthem users consider prior to a purchase? Is there a brand that most people cross shop for HT and music?
> 
> 
> See Page 4 of this online review of the D2V. LINK



The link doesn't seem to work.

John


----------



## DenonLover




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18724106
> 
> 
> The link doesn't seem to work.
> 
> John



It worked last night because I checked it but not this morning? Try this one. LINK


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenonLover* /forum/post/18724128
> 
> 
> It worked last night because I checked it but not this morning? Try this one. LINK



IT DOES NOT WORK because you are a Subscriber - we are NOT subscribers.


----------



## HiFiListener

Hello,


I am currently in the process of deciding/budgeting to purchase an Anthem processor and amp. I would appreciate answers to the following questions.


1. What are the current street prices I can expect to pay for a D2V or AVM50v from an authorized dealer? Please PM any responses to this question.


2. I am deciding between either the Anthem MCA-50 or A-5 amp. Both appear to meet my need. Does anyone have any experience with either of these amps? Has anyone had any serious problems?


Thanks!


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18720186
> 
> 
> I had an AVM 50 with ARC, using Studio 100s, CC-690 fronts and a servo 15. This was powered with Anthem A2 and A5 amps. This was a very good sounding combo better than any of my friends who have the latest denons with similar speakers but no ARC, just Audessey. No comparison by mine and their admissions. I have since upgraded to a D2v and Paradigm Sub 25. If you decide you can afford the D2v, I will tell you what it sounds like now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



If you could share what you see/hear as the critical differences between the AVM 50v and the D2v, that would be great. The key difference is in listening to music?


I went to a dealer in Dallas and did an A/B comparison of the two in the same media room with the same speakers and video. I saw a little improvement in color with the D2v and was able to maybe distinguish a small audio difference. These were not major differences and I had to stretch to find them. However, as Bob pointed out I am not sure if each had ARC set for them individually.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HiFiListener* /forum/post/18724405
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I am currently in the process of deciding/budgeting to purchase an Anthem processor and amp. I would appreciate answers to the following questions.
> 
> 
> 1. What are the current street prices I can expect to pay for a D2V or AVM50v from an authorized dealer? Please PM any responses to this question.
> 
> 
> 2. I am deciding between either the Anthem MCA-50 or A-5 amp. Both appear to meet my need. Does anyone have any experience with either of these amps? Has anyone had any serious problems?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I have a MCA-50 and have had no problems and am very happy with it. It fit the bill and price point I had at the time.


I also have the P2 which is a real beast for 2 channel listening.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18724498
> 
> 
> If you could share what you see/hear as the critical differences between the AVM 50v and the D2v, that would be great. The key difference is in listening to music?
> 
> 
> I went to a dealer in Dallas and did an A/B comparison of the two in the same media room with the same speakers and video. I saw a little improvement in color with the D2v and was able to maybe distinguish a small audio difference. These were not major differences and I had to stretch to find them. However, as Bob pointed out I am not sure if each had ARC set for them individually.



The video should be the same as they are using the same board. Must have been setup if you saw any difference. You should hear a difference in the audio and this is where the differences are. It is subjective and depends on the setup as you say and only you can say if it is worth the cost difference. I went from an AVM20 to a D1 (now D1HD) and the differences were worth it to me. I would think the 50v to D2v would be about the same difference.


----------



## dbphd

In answer to the poster who asked what other people are shopping when considering a D2V, I've been looking at and reading reviews of the Cary Cinema 11a and Classe SSP-800. Audio quality is very important to me, and I get the hint of a whiff that both the 11a and SSP-800 might be just a bit better than the D2V in that area alone, although neither can match the DRC capability of the D2V -- the 11a is so buggy most owners don't recommend even trying its DRC, and I'm not sure the Classe SSP-800 offers it. I know the 11a doesn't do video processing and I think the SSP-800 may also not do video processing, but I have a DVDO Edge for that. I suppose one could buy an Audessey unit for DRC. After comparing an Integra 80.1 in a less than ideal setup with my Proceed PAV/PDSD in its setup, I dismissed the 80.1, but the comparison really wasn't fair, and the 80.1 may sound better than I imagine. I think the only valid comparison is to listen to a unit in your own system, but that may not be practical.


db


----------



## dbphd

I should clarify my previous post to consider cost: The cost of an Anthem D2V or Classe SSP-800 is generally in the same $7-8K ballpark; Cary Cinema 11a can be found used for around $2K, because of the number of dissatisfied owners; my cost for the Integra 80.1 would have been $1.8K; the Proceed PAV/PDSD to which I compared the 80.1 had an MSRP in the 1990s of about $10K. Of course, there have been reports of 11a processors resetting their software attenuators to zero and blowing speakers, so their actual cost could be high.


db


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18696257
> 
> *New D2v / AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V2.08n (26May10) Now on Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> Last evening, Anthem Tech Support placed D2v and AVM 50v "test" firmware V2.08n(26May10) on their password protected download page.
> 
> 
> CAUTION: The PRIOR "test" version was ALSO V2.08n, and both that prior version and this new one will identify themselves only as "V2.08n" on the Select button displays after installation. Thus you must check the file name of the installer file itself to be sure you are using this new, (26May10) version which contains an additional important fix. I do not know why they reused the version number for this one.
> 
> 
> Change notes for changes since the "official" V2.08 release now read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I presume the fix in V2.08n(26May10) is intended to address the incorrect muting of analog video input (Component video and S-video, including the Setup menu display) which sometimes happened when switching FROM an HDMI source to an analog source, and which required a power cycle to cure.
> 
> 
> As always, "test" software is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises requiring you to revert back to a prior version.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


I can confirm that analog video muting issue has been corrected.










Regards,


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbphd* /forum/post/18725261
> 
> 
> In answer to the poster who asked what other people are shopping when considering a D2V, I've been looking at and reading reviews of the Cary Cinema 11a and Classe SSP-800. Audio quality is very important to me, and I get the hint of a whiff that both the 11a and SSP-800 might be just a bit better than the D2V in that area alone, although neither can match the DRC capability of the D2V -- the 11a is so buggy most owners don't recommend even trying its DRC, and I'm not sure the Classe SSP-800 offers it. I know the 11a doesn't do video processing and I think the SSP-800 may also not do video processing, but I have a DVDO Edge for that. I suppose one could buy an Audessey unit for DRC. After comparing an Integra 80.1 in a less than ideal setup with my Proceed PAV/PDSD in its setup, I dismissed the 80.1, but the comparison really wasn't fair, and the 80.1 may sound better than I imagine. I think the only valid comparison is to listen to a unit in your own system, but that may not be practical.
> 
> 
> db



If you are considering an Audessey add-on consider that ARC comes with the AVM 50 and D2v. With ARC the diff b/t a unit with slightly better sound, if this true at all, would be outweighed by what ARC contributes to the sound in your room. If your room is already treated for nulls and peaks then it doesn't matter but most of us don't have that luxury.









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HiFiListener* /forum/post/18724405
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I am currently in the process of deciding/budgeting to purchase an Anthem processor and amp. I would appreciate answers to the following questions.
> 
> 
> 1. What are the current street prices I can expect to pay for a D2V or AVM50v from an authorized dealer? Please PM any responses to this question.
> 
> 
> 2. I am deciding between either the Anthem MCA-50 or A-5 amp. Both appear to meet my need. Does anyone have any experience with either of these amps? Has anyone had any serious problems?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I have used an A5 with both my AVM 50 and D2v. It has never hiccupped, I don't even know it's there except when I listen to clean, undistorted sound


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18724498
> 
> 
> If you could share what you see/hear as the critical differences between the AVM 50v and the D2v, that would be great. The key difference is in listening to music?
> 
> 
> I went to a dealer in Dallas and did an A/B comparison of the two in the same media room with the same speakers and video. I saw a little improvement in color with the D2v and was able to maybe distinguish a small audio difference. These were not major differences and I had to stretch to find them. However, as Bob pointed out I am not sure if each had ARC set for them individually.



I found the soundstage widened and there an increased dimensionality and clarity. Even my wife noticed the difference







I listen to 2 channel music from my Arcam coming out digitally and applying ARC. It sounds spectacular and this comes from someone who plays in a symphony who remarked that they had not heard in room sound that was better than most of the halls they play in. High praise for the D2v and ARC.

John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HiFiListener* /forum/post/18724405
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I am currently in the process of deciding/budgeting to purchase an Anthem processor and amp. I would appreciate answers to the following questions.
> 
> 
> 1. What are the current street prices I can expect to pay for a D2V or AVM50v from an authorized dealer? Please PM any responses to this question.
> 
> 
> 2. I am deciding between either the Anthem MCA-50 or A-5 amp. Both appear to meet my need. Does anyone have any experience with either of these amps? Has anyone had any serious problems?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I have two MCA 50s Bi-amped across the front with the other four channels feeding my surrounds. It's very nice and I have not had any problems, knock on wood.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18727008
> 
> 
> If you are considering an Audessey add-on consider that ARC comes with the AVM 50 and D2v. With ARC the diff b/t a unit with slightly better sound, if this true at all, would be outweighed by what ARC contributes to the sound in your room. If your room is already treated for nulls and peaks then it doesn't matter but most of us don't have that luxury.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



For me the important factors to consider are the room, speakers and room correction in that order. They affect sound much more profoundly than DAC's or any other component in the chain( given the quality of current components). I can't find any improvement between the 50v and the D2v. Having said that, even if the room is well treated for nulls and peaks, ARC plays a huge part in the final sound of the system. Treatments cannot remove all the acoustic anomallies in the room, it just minimizes them.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18727418
> 
> 
> For me the important factors to consider are the room, speakers and room correction in that order. They affect sound much more profoundly than DAC's or any other component in the chain( given the quality of current components). I can't find any improvement between the 50v and the D2v. Having said that, even if the room is well treated for nulls and peaks, ARC plays a huge part in the final sound of the system. Treatments cannot remove all the acoustic anomallies in the room, it just minimizes them.



I don't disagree as to ARCs value as my posts indicate. In fact I probably saved a lot of money when ARC came out for the AVM 50 not having to use treatments and I suspect it sounded better anyway. As for diff b/t the AVM50 and the D2v I can only tell what I heard.

John


----------



## pjpoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18712653
> 
> 
> Just got a Paradigm Sub 25 to replace my 2 yr. old Servo 15 v2. Did a new measurement with the Sub 25 in the exact same place as my Servo was (as some of you may remember I moved it from the corner up the side wall and got far more db in the 100 Hz range. Well the diff with this sub is now at a new level. If anyone thinks, as mentioned on another thread, that BD has a restriction of 25 Hz. for LFE, they need this sub. There is so much below 20 Hz which my servo couldn't do. I am now in LFE heaven with what ARC did to it.
> 
> John
> 
> PS. Bob, I moved it around and did some measurements but each time it created a problem. Nick wondered if I had moved it back to the front corner to test your hypothesis re the servo in corners but I hadn't. Maybe some other time as it is very heavy and hard for one person to move.



Hello Jayray. Not sure if this will be of interest to you but I've had this sub in my system for about a year now. I noticed during the movie Prince Caspian that I would get a slight low level thumping sound from the subwoofer. Almost sounded like part of the soundtrack but not quite right. Correspondence with Piero at Anthem turned up the fact that there was a firmware upgrade available for the sub 25. After installing it the problem was solved. Here's a link to the Paradigm page if you're interested.

http://www.paradigm.com/en/reference...4-20.paradigm# 


The download is under the Latest Software link on the right side of the page. Hope this is helpful


----------



## barrygordon

As a previous owner of a cary 11a and a current owner of an AVM 50v: The Cary, when it was playing correctly was a nice sounding unit. However it was so buggy that I just gave up on it. The bugs are not only in the room correction capabilities which were so bad few owners used it. It had a habit of dropping whole channels randomly until power cycled. On several occasions in my experience and as reported by several other owners it would suddenly decide that max and I do mean max volume was the correct setting. Not good for very costly speaker systems


Their customer support was the worst I have ever encountered. No one in the US knows anything about the technical details of the unit let alone how to properly set it up. The manual is terrible. IMHO they were an analog audio company that decided to go digital, farmed the work out to Hong Kong and have failed miserably.


I got it for a very good price and still took a loss when I sold it.


IMHO anyone who says they can tell the difference in sound quality between two high end systems listened to hours/days/weeks/months apart is really pushing the belief envelope.


Caveat Emptor


----------



## dbphd

Barry,


I think I've read most if not all your posts re your dissatisfaction with the Cinema 11a. But didn't you give up DSD surround with the AVM50, and does the AVM50 process the lossless codecs? Presumably a D2 does DSD surround and lossless codecs.


db


----------



## barrygordon

Not at all. The avm50v (I have the 50v not the 50) processes all the codecs. Blu Ray disks sound amazing. The surround sound on avatar is not to be believed. I gave up nothing except frustration and anger.


This forum alone is almost worth the money. In fact right now I am not sure there is much of a price difference (MRSP) between the Cary 11a and the AVM 50v. However the Cary11a has a lower street price, and guess why?


Now don't get me wrong the AVM-50v is not perfect either, and I claim that nothing is in this crazy HDMI world, but the problems I have had are insicnificant and the support I have received is superb. Imagine, I call Anthem and either I get a knowledgeable person on the line, Nick or Andrew, or I leave a message and get a call back the same day.


----------



## dbphd

Thanks for the observation, Barry. An AVM50V seems promising.


db


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjpoon* /forum/post/18727538
> 
> 
> Hello Jayray. Not sure if this will be of interest to you but I've had this sub in my system for about a year now. I noticed during the movie Prince Caspian that I would get a slight low level thumping sound from the subwoofer. Almost sounded like part of the soundtrack but not quite right. Correspondence with Piero at Anthem turned up the fact that there was a firmware upgrade available for the sub 25. After installing it the problem was solved. Here's a link to the Paradigm page if you're interested.
> 
> http://www.paradigm.com/en/reference...4-20.paradigm#
> 
> 
> The download is under the Latest Software link on the right side of the page. Hope this is helpful



Thanks, I did that the day it arrived. Must be used to doing firmware updates.









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbphd* /forum/post/18728178
> 
> 
> Barry,
> 
> 
> I think I've read most if not all your posts re your dissatisfaction with the Cinema 11a. But didn't you give up DSD surround with the AVM50, and does the AVM50 process the lossless codecs? Presumably a D2 does DSD surround and lossless codecs.
> 
> 
> db



The AVM 50v decodes all the lossless audio formats for Blu-Ray. The original AVM 50 does not (so you need to use a player that does the decoding to HDMI LPCM).


However you are correct that neither the AVM 50v nor the original AVM 50 decode HDMI DSD input from SACD discs. You must use a player that decodes SACD discs to HDMI LPCM -- or to analog if you prefer. An example would be the Oppo Blu-Ray players.


The Anthems also do not decode the extra dynamic range matrixed on HDCD discs. Input from such discs will be played just as if they were normal CDs. As with SACD discs, the solution is to use a player that decodes HDCD discs to HDMI LPCM (or analog) preserving the extra 4 bits of dynamic range. Again, the Oppo Blu-Ray players are an example. NOTE that there is a misfeature in the Oppos in this regard. In their current firmware, you must be sure to select HDMI LPCM output from the Oppo as well as turning on HDCD decoding in the Oppo. If you have HDMI Bitstream (or Auto) output selected, you will not get the HDCD decoding, even though the actual signal being sent to the Anthem is HDMI LPCM as is always true when playing CDs. Fortunately the Oppos let you change the output format selection on the fly while playing the disc so this is not that big an issue so long as you remember you need to do it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For those of you using the Oppo BDP-80 (not 83) Blu-Ray player, there is new "official" firmware out for it now on Oppo's web site (or via Internet install). Highly recommended. This firmware brings the 80 up to the fix and feature level of the recent firmware update for the 83.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18727017
> 
> 
> I have used an A5 with both my AVM 50 and D2v. It has never hiccupped, I don't even know it's there except when I listen to clean, undistorted sound



I agree 100%, these amps are very good. Bryston would be my next choice, but with a bit more cash. Now when the D2 gets a new upgrade from 1.47f, sometimes in the next week or 2, yes coming very soon, we the D2 people will be back in nirvana.


----------



## Donloz

 http://blog.ultimateavmag.com/ultima...nel_power_amp/ 


Here is an AMP if any body has some extra cash


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/18730473
> 
> http://blog.ultimateavmag.com/ultima...nel_power_amp/
> 
> 
> Here is an AMP if any body has some extra cash



Now that's funny









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm pretty sure that's a prop from "Tron"....


Anyway, as the article points out, it is a bargain calculated as dollars/watt

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I did some testing with ARC V2.4 and "test" firmware V2.08n(26may10), and I can confirm what JAYRAY reported regarding a high tone at the start of each main speaker test tone sweep during ARC Measurement.


What's going on is that the first sweep is partial.


It has always been this way, but in the past the partial first sweep started with low tones -- just not all the way down. Now the partial sweep starts with tones near the top of the sweep so you hear a brief chunk of the top of the partial sweep before the first real sweep begins.


I think this is harmless.

--Bob


----------



## dbphd

_However you are correct that neither the AVM 50v nor the original AVM 50 decode HDMI DSD input from SACD discs. You must use a player that decodes SACD discs to HDMI LPCM -- or to analog if you prefer. An example would be the Oppo Blu-Ray players._


Bob,


The sources I would be using with an Anthem processor are a Sony PS3-80 for Blu-ray and DVD, and a Sony XA5400ES for CD and SACD, both via HDMI. (The 5400ES might also be via stereo analog XLR.) I'm pretty sure Sony does not do HDCD. I think both the PS3 and 5400ES can decode SACD to HDMI LPCM. Can I infer from your reply that the D2V does decode HDMI DSD surround?


db


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18732960
> 
> 
> I did some testing with ARC V2.4 and "test" firmware V2.08n(26may10), and I can confirm what JAYRAY reported regarding a high tone at the start of each main speaker test tone sweep during ARC Measurement.
> 
> 
> What's going on is that the first sweep is partial.
> 
> 
> It has always been this way, but in the past the partial first sweep started with low tones -- just not all the way down. Now the partial sweep starts with tones near the top of the sweep so you hear a brief chunk of the top of the partial sweep before the first real sweep begins.
> 
> 
> I think this is harmless.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for trying it Bob. Nick already knows but they didn't have additional confimation. I also noticed no diff. In ARC results.

John


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbphd* /forum/post/18733379
> 
> _However you are correct that neither the AVM 50v nor the original AVM 50 decode HDMI DSD input from SACD discs. You must use a player that decodes SACD discs to HDMI LPCM -- or to analog if you prefer. An example would be the Oppo Blu-Ray players._
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> The sources I would be using with an Anthem processor are a Sony PS3-80 for Blu-ray and DVD, and a Sony XA5400ES for CD and SACD, both via HDMI. (The 5400ES might also be via stereo analog XLR.) I'm pretty sure Sony does not do HDCD. I think both the PS3 and 5400ES can decode SACD to HDMI LPCM. Can I infer from your reply that the D2V does decode HDMI DSD surround?
> 
> 
> db



The D2v does not decode DSD. If the player converts to LPCM then you are good to go.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbphd* /forum/post/18733379
> 
> _However you are correct that neither the AVM 50v nor the original AVM 50 decode HDMI DSD input from SACD discs. You must use a player that decodes SACD discs to HDMI LPCM -- or to analog if you prefer. An example would be the Oppo Blu-Ray players._
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> The sources I would be using with an Anthem processor are a Sony PS3-80 for Blu-ray and DVD, and a Sony XA5400ES for CD and SACD, both via HDMI. (The 5400ES might also be via stereo analog XLR.) I'm pretty sure Sony does not do HDCD. I think both the PS3 and 5400ES can decode SACD to HDMI LPCM. Can I infer from your reply that the D2V does decode HDMI DSD surround?
> 
> 
> db



None of the Anthem processors decodes DSD. You will need an SACD player that decodes DSD to HDMI LPCM (or analog, but if it decodes to analog it should make the result available on HDMI as well).


Only the oldest PS3 models play SACD discs. They dropped SACD support in later PS3 models.


Understand that it is rare for a device to convert DSD directly to analog. It is almost always the case that devices convert DSD to LPCM and then convert that LPCM to analog since value added audio processing is done in LPCM. I.e., if you go DSD direct to analog you lose the chance of doing any such audio processing. The Oppo Blu-Ray players do convert DSD direct to analog for their analog outs, and some folks believe they can hear an improvement using the analog outs as opposed to using HDMI LPCM from the Oppo when playing SACDs. My personal preference is to use HDMI LPCM to the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Kiper

Hello,


Lately I purchased a D2 and as it seems I also suffered from the Richard Syndrome. My room obviously has problems, big problems.

I already started working on it, intensely I'd say. But seeing my last ARC measurement it looks that I did miss the target quite a bit.

Before I start detailing what I did in my room, could someone share his thoughts with me about my ARC measurements (attached)?


Thank you


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kiper* /forum/post/18734475
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Lately I purchased a D2 and as it seems I also suffered from the Richard Syndrome. My room obviously has problems, big problems.
> 
> I already started working on it, intensely I'd say. But seeing my last ARC measurement it looks that I did miss the target quite a bit.
> 
> Before I start detailing what I did in my room, could someone share his thoughts with me about my ARC measurements (attached)?
> 
> 
> Thank you



NOTHING was ATTACHED - Now there is something Attached


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kiper* /forum/post/18734475
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Lately I purchased a D2 and as it seems I also suffered from the Richard Syndrome. My room obviously has problems, big problems.
> 
> I already started working on it, intensely I'd say. But seeing my last ARC measurement it looks that I did miss the target quite a bit.
> 
> Before I start detailing what I did in my room, could someone share his thoughts with me about my ARC measurements (attached)?
> 
> 
> Thank you



The sub chart indicates moving somewhere else could improve the 70 Hz to 100 Hz range. Make sure your cutoff freq at the back of the sub is set to bypass or the highest freq. on the dial.

John


----------



## Kiper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18734660
> 
> 
> The sub chart indicates moving somewhere else could improve the 70 Hz to 100 Hz range. Make sure your cutoff freq at the back of the sub is set to bypass or the highest freq. on the dial.
> 
> John



It is set at the highest freq. on the dial. I agree that I have to move my sub around and find the best suiting place. But the problem we see at those freq. are standing waves right? That's why we find this pattern in every speakers' measurements, more or less.

What's the solution? Why are my targets set so high?

Why does it sound better when I turn off Room Correction? Richard Syndrome?

Why does it sound dull with Room Correction?

So many questions...


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HiFiListener* /forum/post/18724405
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I am currently in the process of deciding/budgeting to purchase an Anthem processor and amp. I would appreciate answers to the following questions.
> 
> 
> 1. What are the current street prices I can expect to pay for a D2V or AVM50v from an authorized dealer? Please PM any responses to this question.
> 
> 
> 2. I am deciding between either the Anthem MCA-50 or A-5 amp. Both appear to meet my need. Does anyone have any experience with either of these amps? Has anyone had any serious problems?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I have an A5 hooked up to my AVM 50v and it sounds great. Fantastic amp.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kiper* /forum/post/18734716
> 
> 
> It is set at the highest freq. on the dial. I agree that I have to move my sub around and find the best suiting place. But the problem we see at those freq. are standing waves right? That's why we find this pattern in every speakers' measurements, more or less.
> 
> What's the solution? Why are my targets set so high?
> 
> Why does it sound better when I turn off Room Correction? Richard Syndrome?
> 
> Why does it sound dull with Room Correction?
> 
> So many questions...



Are you seated at the center of the room? Best location to start with is around 2/3 of your room's lenght from the front wall.


Tell us about what speakers you have. Your null at 67 hertz (center speaker) is making ARC choose a very high cut off for your speakers. Do the front speakers have as BASS boost orlevel? If not, you need to bring out your front speakers into the room. Use Basstraps in room intersections starting with the front corners.


Increase the overall level via setup menu by 2-3dB to reach 75dB on your graph.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kiper* /forum/post/18734475
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Lately I purchased a D2 and as it seems I also suffered from the Richard Syndrome. My room obviously has problems, big problems.
> 
> I already started working on it, intensely I'd say. But seeing my last ARC measurement it looks that I did miss the target quite a bit.
> 
> Before I start detailing what I did in my room, could someone share his thoughts with me about my ARC measurements (attached)?
> 
> 
> Thank you



It looks like you have an 80 Hz crossover active in your Sub. Check to make sure you don't have a THX switch turned on in the Sub as that could force 80Hz despite your frequency knob setting.


The bass from LF/RF is way too hot. Do you have powered woofers for those? If so you need to turn them down. ARC is using a high crossover to help eliminate that excessive bass. If you've been used to listening to them like this then you are going to have to get used to what "correct" audio sounds like as the uncorrected audio will have been way too bass heavy.


It looks like bass may also be too hot for Center but it isn't showing as much because it appears you have a room cancellation null around 70Hz which is affecting Center even more than LF/RF.


I would focus on the bass level issues first and then come back and look again at what needs to be addressed after that.


By the way, I see no evidence of "Richard Syndrome" = discovering via ARC that one or more of your speakers is actually broken even though you've been enjoying it up to now.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

Has anyone noticed that all versions of 2.08n have been removed from the secure site? I had a failure of the system tonight and went to load a new copy of 2.08n (5/26) and the only version is 2.08h.


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18736034
> 
> 
> Has anyone noticed that all versions of 2.08n have been removed from the secure site? I had a failure of the system tonight and went to load a new copy of 2.08n (5/26) and the only version is 2.08h.



Are you sure? I just downloaded it and "D2v v2.08n (26May10)" is included in the .zip file I downloaded (link1.zip).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No problem here. V2.08n(26may10) is still on the password protected site and the Last Modified Date on the downloaded Zip file remains 5/26/10..


Perhaps you caught them while they were doing some sort of server update -- i.e., loaded a backup but hadn't brought it current yet.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18736398
> 
> 
> No problem here. V2.08n(26may10) is still on the password protected site and the Last Modified Date on the downloaded Zip file remains 5/26/10..
> 
> 
> Perhaps you caught them while they were doing some sort of server update -- i.e., loaded a backup but hadn't brought it current yet.
> 
> --Bob



The file I downloaded at 8:17pm CDT had only 2.08h. The file I downloaded at 11:39pm CDT had 2.08n. I appears that I did hit a server glitch.


----------



## Kiper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18735979
> 
> 
> It looks like you have an 80 Hz crossover active in your Sub. Check to make sure you don't have a THX switch turned on in the Sub as that could force 80Hz despite your frequency knob setting.
> 
> 
> The bass from LF/RF is way too hot. Do you have powered woofers for those? If so you need to turn them down. ARC is using a high crossover to help eliminate that excessive bass. If you've been used to listening to them like this then you are going to have to get used to what "correct" audio sounds like as the uncorrected audio will have been way too bass heavy.
> 
> 
> It looks like bass may also be too hot for Center but it isn't showing as much because it appears you have a room cancellation null around 70Hz which is affecting Center even more than LF/RF.
> 
> 
> I would focus on the bass level issues first and then come back and look again at what needs to be addressed after that.
> 
> 
> By the way, I see no evidence of "Richard Syndrome" = discovering via ARC that one or more of your speakers is actually broken even though you've been enjoying it up to now.
> 
> --Bob



Ok. Just to make sure, I ran a measurement without the sub.

Have a look at the graphs but especially at the targets. My main speakers came back to a normal crossover of 50 for the Movie profile but stayed at 115 for the music profile.

Does it corroborate what you wrote earlier?


Thank you


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kiper* /forum/post/18737172
> 
> 
> Ok. Just to make sure, I ran a measurement without the sub.
> 
> Have a look at the graphs but especially at the targets. My main speakers came back to a normal crossover of 50 for the Movie profile but stayed at 115 for the music profile.
> 
> Does it corroborate what you wrote earlier?
> 
> 
> Thank you



Did you do the Calculate? I can't see the green line. Your overall level is still a bit too low and the bass in the RL is way to hot.


----------



## Kiper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/18737377
> 
> 
> Did you do the Calculate? I can't see the green line. Your overall level is still a bit too low and the bass in the RL is way to hot.



Too low? Wait. I am lowering the speakers reference level by 10dB before I run ARC. Is it ok or is it just required for the D2v? Note that I have a D2!


Thanks


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kiper* /forum/post/18737699
> 
> 
> Too low? Wait. I am lowering the speakers reference level by 10dB before I run ARC. Is it ok or is it just required for the D2v? Note that I have a D2!
> 
> 
> Thanks



I think that is only the D2v and 50v right now. Anyway where the line levels our on your charts it appears below 70db and it should be about 75db. It doesn't look like it's quite 10 db. I think the extra bass from your fronts and that huge dip is causing ARC some problems.


If you didn't do the calculate I'm not sure that it would have changed your targets that you mentioned. not sure why they did change though. Remember that these are cutoff's and not crossovers. You have to look at what the crossovers are set at in the setup menu after you have done an upload of the ARC solution.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/18726168
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I can confirm that analog video muting issue has been corrected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Greetings,


Sorry but I spoke too soon. The issue remains that after using an HDMI source and switching over to analog, in this case component, there is no video. The only remedy is to power cycle the Anthem. Ridiculous..



Regards,


----------



## Kiper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/18738095
> 
> 
> I think that is only the D2v and 50v right now. Anyway where the line levels our on your charts it appears below 70db and it should be about 75db. It doesn't look like it's quite 10 db. I think the extra bass from your fronts and that huge dip is causing ARC some problems.
> 
> 
> If you didn't do the calculate I'm not sure that it would have changed your targets that you mentioned. not sure why they did change though. Remember that these are cutoff's and not crossovers. You have to look at what the crossovers are set at in the setup menu after you have done an upload of the ARC solution.



Ok, I will run ARC again without fiddling with the speaker reference level.

About the targets, I suppose they changed because, as i mentioned it earlier, this measurement was run without a subwoofer, and without the rear speakers too.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/18738165
> 
> 
> The issue remains that after using an HDMI source and switching over to analog, in this case component, there is no video. The only remedy is to power cycle the Anthem. Ridiculous..
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



The D2 is fine in this area - Thank the Anthem GODS







- it is ridiculous.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kiper* /forum/post/18738170
> 
> 
> Ok, I will run ARC again without fiddling with the speaker reference level.
> 
> About the targets, I suppose they changed because, as i mentioned it earlier, this measurement was run without a subwoofer, and without the rear speakers too.



I understand you measured without the sub but did you do the calculate phase? I would have thought we'd have seen the green calculated lines in your graphs if you did. Without Calculating I can't see how it would pick any new targets. Perhaps they are at some default numbers or perhaps just random.


Do you have powered woofers in your fronts? If so can they be turned down? Do you have any other adjustments for the front so that the bass can be turned down?


----------



## Kiper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/18738283
> 
> 
> I understand you measured without the sub but did you do the calculate phase? I would have thought we'd have seen the green calculated lines in your graphs if you did. Without Calculating I can't see how it would pick any new targets. Perhaps they are at some default numbers or perhaps just random.
> 
> 
> Do you have powered woofers in your fronts? If so can they be turned down? Do you have any other adjustments for the front so that the bass can be turned down?



Maybe i missed something but what has the calculation have to do with the target? Isn't it the other way around? I mean if you change something in the target then it has some impact on the calculation.

In the screen shots i attached we can see that the previous targets "auto detected" with a sub present are really different than the ones "auto detected" without any sub. That's what puzzles me.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kiper* /forum/post/18738465
> 
> 
> Maybe i missed something but what has the calculation have to do with the target? Isn't it the other way around? I mean if you change something in the target then it has some impact on the calculation.
> 
> In the screen shots i attached we can see that the previous targets "auto detected" with a sub present are really different than the ones "auto detected" without any sub. That's what puzzles me.



Well I was thinking that if you did new measurements then it would have to calculate where the targets and cutoff's should be based on these new curves. If you change the targets manually then you would have to recalculate too. Why not try the Calculate and see if anything changes. Can't take long.


Guess we can wait for the experts to chime in.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/18738165
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Sorry but I spoke too soon. The issue remains that after using an HDMI source and switching over to analog, in this case component, there is no video. The only remedy is to power cycle the Anthem. Ridiculous..
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



I reloaded 2.08n(5/26) just to see if that would correct the problem. No luck. The setup menu and any other analog input will not pop up after viewing a HDMI source for an extended period of time (like watching a movie).


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kiper* /forum/post/18738170
> 
> 
> Ok, I will run ARC again without fiddling with the speaker reference level.
> 
> About the targets, I suppose they changed because, as i mentioned it earlier, this measurement was run without a subwoofer, and without the rear speakers too.



-7dB on the speaker reference level would be a good start


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18739411
> 
> 
> -7dB on the speaker reference level would be a good start



If his charts are down 8db why would he start with -7db? Kiper is running a D2 and I'm not sure what software but if it's the official 1.33 it does not suffer from the bug. I'm not even sure I've heard the test version 1.47f has this bug. The D2v and 50V does seem to have this bug.


I don't think this is the real problem he is having but it\\s one thing to get the volume level close to the reference 75 db.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/18739830
> 
> 
> If his charts are down 8db why would he start with -7db? Kiper is running a D2 and I'm not sure what software but if it's the official 1.33 it does not suffer from the bug. I'm not even sure I've heard the test version 1.47f has this bug. The D2v and 50V does seem to have this bug.
> 
> 
> I don't think this is the real problem he is having but it\\s one thing to get the volume level close to the reference 75 db.



He is lowering his speaker level by 10dB and he gets a reading of around 72dB on his graphs therefore, 10dB is too much, a 7dB attenuation should have him at 75dB Cal level. That is for his first set of graphs. Looking at his second graphs an attenuation of just 4 dB might just be the right figure.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Well, just to put a ribbon on my saga in case anyone is curious.


As of last night, my newly Anthem-refurbished D2V is back from Anthem and installed in full whole-house audio/video action again and better than ever. It took me an extra week because after dismantling my entire setup I got the bright idea to do some electrical work and painting in the equipment area. Gotta love how small-ish projects become big real quick 


The D2V literally sounds better than it ever did. Not sure if the DSP board firmware updates they did to it had anything to do with it, kind of hard for me to assess the individual responsible variables for the improvement in sound because I've made several changes at the same time. And my main issue of the D2V video board flaking out has been totally resolved. HDMI outputs 1 and 2 both work perfectly with OSD back properly on HDMI 1. I'm currently just running standard public release 2.08, no reason right now for me to use the Beta releases.


I got the itch to make a few changes to my setup at the same time while I had everything dismantled. The changes included:


1. Bypassing the D2V's DAC for 2-channel sources now - I am now using the PS Audio PWD DAC and PWT disc transport, and inputing 2-channel Balanced from the PWD DAC to the D2V in Analog DSP mode to allow the ARC correction to do its thing. After only limited listening so far, even simple 16-bit sources like CD's sound much better, not to mention the wonderful HRX high-rez discs from Reference Recordings (24 bit/176.4kHz) 


2. Added some room dampening material to one portion of the main listening room. Though it was a small amount of treatments, it is in a "nook" area that I suspect might have been acting as a bit of an echo chamber.


3. Changed my electrical outlets that serve all the equipment - using PS Audio's Power Soloist Premier now for the main outlet and Power Port Premiers for the other outlets.


4. Using a PS Audio Power Plant Premier conditioner for all equipment now. Noticing on its display that my input voltage is consistently only 116 volts, and the device is "regenerating" at exactly 120 volts to all the equipment. I also notice there was significant noise on the line with THD at around 2.5%-4% now being signifcantly reduced by the device, now down to about 0.3-0.4%.


5. Swapped power cables for the D2V,A5 and A2 amps, DAC, and Transport. Now using mostly 8 and 10 gauge Shunyata cables with a couple PS audio cables also.


In short, it's time to sit back and enjoy the setup. Just gonna let everything soak in - just in time for the World Cup, the NBA finals, and several movie marathons!


Thanks again to the various folks here that helped me isolate my HDMI video board problems, not to mention the HDMI audio not syncing problem, etc. Bob was once again hugely instrumental as well. It was painful for a couple months there, but things seem to be working quite well now. This forum and all of your advice and help were key to resolving this stuff. I was also impressed with Anthem Tech Support and engineering in fixing my hardware issue.


Cheers guys, hope everyone is doing well.

-Brian


----------



## Kensmith48

I'll finally be getting my D2 back today after 3 weeks (repair) as soon as UPS gets here. I've been seriously thinking of trading it in for a D2v. I've looked at the comparison charts and did a search on the differences. What I'd like to know is if it's worth the cost. Is there really that much of a video/audio difference to upgrade at the cost of approx. $5,000. I know it probably comes down to personnal preference but is it really that much better?


Ken


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18739203
> 
> 
> I reloaded 2.08n(5/26) just to see if that would correct the problem. No luck. The setup menu and any other analog input will not pop up after viewing a HDMI source for an extended period of time (like watching a movie).



Greetings,


Thanks John. Honestly I am not clear why something this would be even be an issue in the first place but I wouldn't think it would hard to remedy. I am still a fan but these types of glitches are irksome.



Regards,


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18741394
> 
> 
> I'll finally be getting my D2 back today after 3 weeks (repair) as soon as UPS gets here. I've been seriously thinking of trading it in for a D2v. I've looked at the comparison charts and did a search on the differences. What I'd like to know is if it's worth the cost. Is there really that much of a video/audio difference to upgrade at the cost of approx. $5,000. I know it probably comes down to personnal preference but is it really that much better?
> 
> 
> Ken



For the video i'm not sure, but for audio, in my opinion, you'll see a difference, especially for HD. With D2, all the decoding shall be done in the BD player, with the D2V you'll benefit for the two dual core processors. I have used my Pioneer Elite to do the decoding and sending PCM over HDMI, before, (with a Marantz 1.2 HDMI, not relevant for our discussion, but), now i send beatstream and the D2V is doing all the work, the surrounds and backs are more presents.

On other hand, 5k is a lot of cash, maybe to invest in better speakers or room treatments. My two cents.

Thanks.


----------



## Kensmith48

I finally rec'd my D2 back from repair. It doesn't say what was done. They used the red video board that I sent in with it but no explanation as to what the problem was. There was a sticker with a warning concerning the hdmi connections and on the paperwork it just said QC-ok. I doubt I could have damaged all the hdmi conections and I had inspected them prior to sending the D2 back so I'm not sure what the problem was.


Thanks for the input Mike, I think you meant I'd hear a difference. The other comment is definately something to think about. Anyone else notice anything after upgrading?


Ken


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/18742184
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Thanks John. Honestly I am not clear why something this would be even be an issue in the first place but I wouldn't think it would hard to remedy. I am still a fan but these types of glitches are irksome.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



I agree, Ralph! It has been far too long to have this remain as an issue. However, there appears to be no momentum from groups like this to collectively hold Anthem's feet to the fire to correct this and the other remaining issues. The D2v has been in distribution for over 18 months. Anthem appears to be devoting their resources toward new product introduction over correcting existing product deficiencies! While Anthem is not alone in prostituting a great idea like user upgradeable firmware by releasing product before it's ready and making us do their work for them...it's Anthem that I'm living with.The chances of my purchasing future product from them (my pair of Sub1's was the last) is, to be kind, poor.


----------



## obie_fl

My personal threshold for a D2 to D2v upgrade was $2K, obviously I still have my D2.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18742397
> 
> 
> I finally rec'd my D2 back from repair. It doesn't say what was done. They used the red video board that I sent in with it but no explanation as to what the problem was. There was a sticker with a warning concerning the hdmi connections and on the paperwork it just said QC-ok. I doubt I could have damaged all the hdmi conections and I had inspected them prior to sending the D2 back so I'm not sure what the problem was.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input Mike, I think you meant I'd hear a difference. The other comment is definately something to think about. Anyone else notice anything after upgrading?
> 
> 
> Ken



Ken, mine came back with that sticker too, I took it as a friendly warning, not an indication at all of why my video board had failed. I suspect they do get a lot of people who damage the hdmi sockets, so maybe they just warn people.


Glad to hear you got it back. Send them an email asking exactly what was done to it. I think you have a right to know. They told me they had 1. replaced the video board, 2. updated the DSP firmware (not the software, but actual firmware on the DSP board that can only be updated by Anthem), and lastly, they added some special "caps" on the main board. Seems like they are things that they do for just about anyone who sends in a warranty repair.


Let us know what you find out.


-Brian


----------



## jayray

Bob,

just a follow up on the idea that the Servo 15 had a problem with corner placement. I have moved my Sub 25 into the same corner I had my servo in, which gave me the steep slope curve reducing the 60-100 Hz. freq. The sub 25 gave me the same type of curve, so apparently it doesn't like the corner either. My friend who bought my servo has it in the corner of his room and I believe he is also missing this 60-100 Hz range. Perhaps the corner isn't always the best place even though most pics on this forum show subs in the corner. Go figure









John


----------



## Kensmith48

Brian,

I was going through Andrew as far as return issues. I know they replaced the video board with the red one. I'm not sure if it needed it though. I had set the D2 to v1.47f, now it's back to v1.33. I guess I'll leave it there till they come up with a version that works with all the D2's.

I'm going to drop Andrew an e-mail and see what was done though. I'll report back when I hear something.

Time to get the D2 back in the rack and see if it actually works!


Ken


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18743122
> 
> 
> Brian,
> 
> I was going through Andrew as far as return issues. I know they replaced the video board with the red one. I'm not sure if it needed it though. I had set the D2 to v1.47f, now it's back to v1.33. I guess I'll leave it there till they come up with a version that works with all the D2's.
> 
> I'm going to drop Andrew an e-mail and see what was done though. I'll report back when I hear something.
> 
> Time to get the D2 back in the rack and see if it actually works!
> 
> 
> Ken



Good to get the new board in there, that's for sure. I think 1.33 is probably safest right now, and before too long, they'll likely have a public update that is good to go. There's no doubt in my mind that you *could* take 1.47f with your brand new red replacement board, but the question is more one of *should* you. Totally up to you.


But either way, I hope you get to enjoy a kinder, gentler D2 now!


-Brian


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18742397
> 
> 
> I finally rec'd my D2 back from repair. It doesn't say what was done. They used the red video board that I sent in with it but no explanation as to what the problem was. There was a sticker with a warning concerning the hdmi connections and on the paperwork it just said QC-ok. I doubt I could have damaged all the hdmi conections and I had inspected them prior to sending the D2 back so I'm not sure what the problem was.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input Mike, I think you meant I'd hear a difference. The other comment is definately something to think about. Anyone else notice anything after upgrading?
> 
> 
> Ken



Ken, you are not in that boat alone, I as-well sent my D2 in for repair last month and I received NO PAPER WORK FOR THE 113.00 I SPENT. I Emailed Piero and he sent me a work order, that said;; 2 hours labor.









After a phone call to Piero, he says that they installed 1.47f, on my OLD D2, AND repaired some cold soldiers. Now most of my audio is goofy, hand shakes still BAD. Piero has me doing some tests to figure out what is going on, they are trying to repair the situation, NOT putting Anthem down by any means, they are working on it. I've been patient for 4 years, what's another couple years. Has anyone Seen this come up , 2048-1115i instead of 1920-1080????

I hope they get the D2 and D2.V working 100% before they come out with the D3.


----------



## Kensmith48

I heard back from Andrew and he said they re-installed v1.33 and put in the new red video board and everything worked. There was a problem with the old video board but he says that they didn't fix it.

I set all the menus to what I had loaded before. The BD on dvd1 worked great, Std. on dvd2 was giving me a black screen with no sound, I went into the video menu on the D2 and changed the 4:4:4 setting to 4:2:2 and then the picture kicked in but it was a magenta color. I changed it back to 4:4:4 and everything was ok. Must be a hdmi handshake issue. I'm having the same problem now with the Samsung 260 hdtv tuner. I'm changing things but nothing works. Still no picture or sound --just a blank screen. I'll try again tomorrow.

For the record I'm using 2 dvd players so I don't have to deal with frame lock. I have the Oppo 83 bd and the Oppo 983 std.


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/18742493
> 
> 
> I agree, Ralph! It has been far too long to have this remain as an issue. However, there appears to be no momentum from groups like this to collectively hold Anthem's feet to the fire to correct this and the other remaining issues. The D2v has been in distribution for over 18 months. Anthem appears to be devoting their resources toward new product introduction over correcting existing product deficiencies! While Anthem is not alone in prostituting a great idea like user upgradeable firmware by releasing product before it's ready and making us do their work for them...it's Anthem that I'm living with.The chances of my purchasing future product from them (my pair of Sub1's was the last) is, to be kind, poor.



I can tell you as a prospective customer (in case anyone form Anthem is reading this thread) that I am hesitating to purchase either a AVM 50v or a D2v for this very reason. I purchased a Halo (Parasound) A51 amp a year ago and there has not been one software fix. I understand that processors are a different animal, but Parasound will not release a product until they are sure it is right (of course that meant they stopped R&D on the C3 because of too many bugs). 945 pages of issues, fixes, more issues seems excessive to me as a consumer.


----------



## JimmyTango




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18747383
> 
> 
> I can tell you as a prospective customer (in case anyone form Anthem is reading this thread) that I am hesitating to purchase either a AVM 50v or a D2v for this very reason. I purchased a Halo (Parasound) A51 amp a year ago and there has not been one software fix. I understand that processors are a different animal, but Parasound will not release a product until they are sure it is right (of course that meant they stopped R&D on the C3 because of too many bugs). 945 pages of issues, fixes, more issues seems excessive to me as a consumer.



Stay clear of HDMI then. Most high end brands have issues. Go with a Denon, onkyo, Yamaha, etc receiver if you don't want HDMI issues.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18747383
> 
> 
> 945 pages of issues, fixes, more issues seems excessive to me as a consumer.



I think that is a very unfair assessment of this thread. While at times it may seem that this thread is about nothing but issues keep in mind that many are relatively minor and there is a lot of *beta* testing going on here. I would also venture to say there are as many if not more postings about individual ARC results looking for feedback, these are not Anthem issues. Many of us are running very happily with our original D2's keep in mind this thread covers processors all the way back to the original D2 and AVM50. I guess Anthem could have scrapped their HDMI plans years ago but then I wouldn't have had several happy years of D2 usage.


Edited to add... Why would your expect an amplifier to have software upgrades????


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dgbhodge* /forum/post/18747383
> 
> 
> I can tell you as a prospective customer (in case anyone form Anthem is reading this thread) that I am hesitating to purchase either a AVM 50v or a D2v for this very reason. I purchased a Halo (Parasound) A51 amp a year ago and there has not been one software fix. I understand that processors are a different animal, but Parasound will not release a product until they are sure it is right (of course that meant they stopped R&D on the C3 because of too many bugs). 945 pages of issues, fixes, more issues seems excessive to me as a consumer.



I have an Anthem A5 and A2 amps and never had to do a software update either since amps to my knowledge don't have software updates. Read the reviews of Anthem products and they'll tell you that most work great and sound amazing. I haven't had anything go wrong that would interfere with normal performance for music and movies.

John


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18747383
> 
> 
> I can tell you as a prospective customer (in case anyone form Anthem is reading this thread) that I am hesitating to purchase either a AVM 50v or a D2v for this very reason. I purchased a Halo (Parasound) A51 amp a year ago and there has not been one software fix. I understand that processors are a different animal, but Parasound will not release a product until they are sure it is right (of course that meant they stopped R&D on the C3 because of too many bugs). 945 pages of issues, fixes, more issues seems excessive to me as a consumer.



I'll chime in and say that I am a happy camper with Anthem products also. Have had a D1 that was upgraded to D1HD (D2) and then added ARC. Who else gives upgrades like that. I also own a P2 amp and MCA50 amp. I did have to have the D1 in for a problem so that's when I got it upgraded and the whole deal took a week.


This thread covers 4 different products (not even counting the AVM30,40) and is over 4 years old which is also part of the reason it's over 900 pages long.


I'll buy Anthem again.


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18747720
> 
> 
> I think that is a very unfair assessment of this thread. While at times it may seem that this thread is about nothing but issues keep in mind that many are relatively minor and there is a lot of *beta* testing going on here. I would also venture to say there are as many if not more postings about individual ARC results looking for feedback, these are not Anthem issues. Many of us are running very happily with our original D2's keep in mind this thread covers processors all the way back to the original D2 and AVM50. I guess Anthem could have scrapped their HDMI plans years ago but then I wouldn't have had several happy years of D2 usage.
> 
> 
> Edited to add... Why would your expect an amplifier to have software upgrades????



Exactly what I said? The A51 was released and has no issues or fixes at all needed, as is the case with all Parasound products. That was my point. Read the other posts from D2v owners who are complaining about Anthem.


I am aware that Anthem builds quality products, that is why I am even considering them. I won't buy Denon, Onkyo, Yamaha, etc.


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18747917
> 
> 
> Exactly what I said? The A51 was released and has no issues or fixes at all needed, as is the case with all Parasound products. That was my point. Read the other posts from D2v owners who are complaining about Anthem.
> 
> 
> I am aware that Anthem builds quality products, that is why I am even considering them. I won't buy Denon, Onkyo, Yamaha, etc.



Parasound's last 7.1 processor was the NewClassic 7100. During this model's 5 year product life there were no hardware changes, no firmware changes, no software changes, no updates. It simply had no bugs. This is why I purchased the A51 amp and would have purchased the C3 processor if it was released. Parasound could not get the C3 to the same level of quality so they pulled the plug on it. I want an Anthem processor, I just want to know I am getting a product that is reliable.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18747917
> 
> 
> Exactly what I said? The A51 was released and has no issues or fixes at all needed, as is the case with all Parasound products. That was my point. Read the other posts from D2v owners who are complaining about Anthem.



I guess I was confused as to why you were bringing up amplifiers when discussing processors... as you said totally different animals. I'm well aware of owners having some issues, although I believe it is a minority. Internet forums always throw the spotlight on the bad which isn't necessarily a bad thing but it can provide a somewhat skewed view. I think the only way to know for sure is to get a 50v in your system and see how it works with your equipment. The truth is other then possibly Denon there really aren't any other high end HDMI offerings worth considering.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18747972
> 
> 
> Parasound's last 7.1 processor was the NewClassic 7100. During this model’s 5 year product life there were no hardware changes, no firmware changes, no software changes, no updates. It simply had no bugs. This is why I purchased the A51 amp and would have purchased the C3 processor if it was released. Parasound could not get the C3 to the same level of quality so they pulled the plug on it. I want an Anthem processor, I just want to know I am getting a product that is reliable.



Products based on software become MORE reliable with software/firmware updates, hardware revisions etc. - not LESS.


Other than an amplifier, I would be highly suspicious of a system that could not be field-upgraded. I look for that in all my electronic gear.


All the firmware and ARC updates have increased the value of my 4 year old D2. I am very happy with a company that continuously improves its existing products, instead of obsoleting them with the next model (which may benefit from the discovered design flaws of the previous model).


As far as Parasound scrapping their C3 effort, the SPIN was that it was for quality reasons. The reality no doubt includes other issues such as profitability and cash flow (which is seriously negative during the design phase).


Realistically, a D2v may not be for you, for two reasons. First, you'd like something as debugged as possible - understandable, if not very practical in today's economy. Smaller companies just don't have the financial cushion to 'get it perfect' before shipping, so you're limited to products from electronics giants (who often have an even poorer record). Second, an A/V processor that supports HDMI is aiming at a moving target (the HDMI spec). There's no way to design a non-trivial piece of HDMI gear and anticipate all issues.


Interesting how some people look at a long thread like this and see it as a negative. I'm just the opposite, I see it as a huge positive - filled with more real-life scenarios, workarounds, success stories and community support than ten companies could generate on their own.


----------



## b curry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18747972
> 
> 
> Parasound's last 7.1 processor was the NewClassic 7100. During this model's 5 year product life there were no hardware changes, no firmware changes, no software changes, no updates. It simply had no bugs. This is why I purchased the A51 amp and would have purchased the C3 processor if it was released. Parasound could not get the C3 to the same level of quality so they pulled the plug on it. I want an Anthem processor, I just want to know I am getting a product that is reliable.



You also enjoyed living in a simpler world with the Parasound 7100.


The Parasound did not support HDMI or the complexity of HDMI handshaking. Nor did it have the capability to scale the display or acoustic room correction capabilities. The algorithms for DTS and Dolby were fixed and stable. In short there really wasn't much to change or update on the Parasound 7100. Perhaps that's why there weren't any bugs.


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18748193
> 
> 
> I guess I was confused as to why you were bringing up amplifiers when discussing processors... as you said totally different animals. I'm well aware of owners having some issues, although I believe it is a minority. Internet forums always throw the spotlight on the bad which isn't necessarily a bad thing but it can provide a somewhat skewed view. I think the only way to know for sure is to get a 50v in your system and see how it works with your equipment. The truth is other then possibly Denon there really aren't any other high end HDMI offerings worth considering.



Thanks. I agree and have actually started the process of getting the AVM 50v. I looked at everything from Arcam to McIntosh, and Anthem outperforms what I could find. My initial dilemma was the D2v or the 50v and the more I read this thread it seemed each page focused on issues and fixes. I also appreciate a company that provides upgrades (just not always "on the fly") and I am learning the complexities of HDMI.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18751701
> 
> 
> Thanks. I agree and have actually started the process of getting the AVM 50v. I looked at everything from Arcam to McIntosh, and Anthem outperforms what I could find. My initial dilemma was the D2v or the 50v and the more I read this thread it seemed each page focused on issues and fixes. I also appreciate a company that provides upgrades (just not always "on the fly") and I am learning the complexities of HDMI.



Wait until you use ARC









John


----------



## dschamis

Sorry if this has been aske already, but can the D2 and/or the D2v pass a 3D signal via HDMI?


Thanks,


David


----------



## TJG55

A major difference is the superior rise time and slew rate of the A-5. While the 50 is an excellent amp and have sold many of them. However, the minimal expense per channel is truly worthwhile. Have not sold any 50s since experiencing the A-5. Now, .....the P series is another matter! What a beast! (or beasts) A truly killer amp!

tjg


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/18753242
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been aske already, but can the D2 and/or the D2v pass a 3D signal via HDMI?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David



You need HDMI 1.4 for a 3D signal. They have 1.3c, the upcoming receivers support the 1.4 standard according to recent info.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18747383
> 
> 
> I can tell you as a prospective customer (in case anyone form Anthem is reading this thread) that I am hesitating to purchase either a AVM 50v or a D2v for this very reason. I purchased a Halo (Parasound) A51 amp a year ago and there has not been one software fix. I understand that processors are a different animal, but Parasound will not release a product until they are sure it is right (of course that meant they stopped R&D on the C3 because of too many bugs). 945 pages of issues, fixes, more issues seems excessive to me as a consumer.



Boy, I couldn't disagree more. I had a D2 and now have a D2v with a P7 amp and have never been unhappy with the decision to go to Anthem. First, they are the ONLY Av company I have experienced that will work with customers to get things working. Many times I have spoken to Piero or Nick about relatively unusual issues in my extremely complicated system, and in most cases they have worked to get things straightened out (several times with firmwware updates designed to fix my issues). I also have had issues with my Sony, Panasonic, Denon and LG components as well as my Tivos, but I have to learn to live with them - those companies certainly don't put out firmware updates just to help me out (as an aside, in the case of LG, after a month of fighting with them, I cannot even get them to send me a firmware update they tell me exists for my 5-year-old 26" LCD television - now there is a commpany to avoid).


In light of the performance, setup flexibility and customer service, I believe Anthem products are worth every penny and would easily choose Anthem for a high-end AV system.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Absent an informed ear or a way to measure response you either like or do not like what you hear regardless what it sounds like. I never paid attention to the slope on my sub until I was worried my L/C/R might not be reaching down far enough. Then You and Bob pointed out my response issue. I think despite what most of us would like to believe audio accuracy is really 99% preference not an absolute. So my sub worked in the corner until I tried it out in the room, now I would miss the 60-100 Hz range, I think.












> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18742897
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> just a follow up on the idea that the Servo 15 had a problem with corner placement. I have moved my Sub 25 into the same corner I had my servo in, which gave me the steep slope curve reducing the 60-100 Hz. freq. The sub 25 gave me the same type of curve, so apparently it doesn't like the corner either. My friend who bought my servo has it in the corner of his room and I believe he is also missing this 60-100 Hz range. Perhaps the corner isn't always the best place even though most pics on this forum show subs in the corner. Go figure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## SMabille_UK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18753832
> 
> 
> You need HDMI 1.4 for a 3D signal. They have 1.3c, the upcoming receivers support the 1.4 standard according to recent info.



Hi,


Contrary to popular believe you don't need HDMI 1.4 for 3D. HDMI 1.4 add the negotiation of 3D type (side by side or sequential (frame)). If you setup both equipments to use the same config you can use 3D with earlier HDMI. That's how Sky 3D works here in UK, the box is only HDMI 1.2. But of course side-by-side halves your horizontal resolution (while sequential half the refresh rate).


So the only problem would be the processor, I personally don't expect any problem with side-by-side, sequential (as used by Blu-Ray) on the other end might be problematic. It might work with frame lock as this would avoid any frequency change and frame interpolation but it has to be tested. Unfortunately I don't have the necessary equipment (a 3D tv) to do the test.


----------



## jayray




video_bit_bucket said:


> Absent an informed ear or a way to measure response you either like or do not like what you hear regardless what it sounds like. I never paid attention to the slope on my sub until I was worried my L/C/R might not be reaching down far enough. Then You and Bob pointed out my response issue. I think despite what most of us would like to believe audio accuracy is really 99% preference not an absolute. So my sub worked in the corner until I tried it out in the room, now I would miss the 60-100 Hz range, I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/QUOTE
> 
> 
> If we see accurate curves in ARC, you can be quite sure you're going to hear something closer to the source material potential than if you had nothing to go by. I have tuned my system to a point where it's as good as it will get without spending cash on wall treatments. Law of Diminishing returns would likely apply here. Your previous sub response was not correct as it was losing dB in the 60-100 Hz region as I recall, similar to mine. Once corrected the bass was smoother and the punch much tighter as intended by the soundmixers. It isn't about my preference, it's about achieving something close to what is on the disc. As a purist
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for video and audio I take the same approach, as good as I can get it, within a reasonable range and then enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/18741258
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the itch to make a few changes to my setup at the same time while I had everything dismantled. The changes included:
> 
> 
> 1. Bypassing the D2V's DAC for 2-channel sources now - I am now using the PS Audio PWD DAC and PWT disc transport, and inputing 2-channel Balanced from the PWD DAC to the D2V in Analog DSP mode to allow the ARC correction to do its thing. After only limited listening so far, even simple 16-bit sources like CD's sound much better, not to mention the wonderful HRX high-rez discs from Reference Recordings (24 bit/176.4kHz)
> 
> -Brian



If you're using analog dsp I think you are not only still using the Anthem DAC but also the Anthem ADC. And that's in addition to the DAC in your PS Audio.


----------



## obie_fl

Yep _ain't_ no way to use ARC without using the D2v's DACs and if you are pumpin Analog in it is going to use the ADC too.


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

I have a d2 in a totally open rack is it nessary to use a cooling fan on the unit should i just run a computer fan or a thermal controled fan ? thanks in advance bert


----------



## obie_fl

I have a rack open to the front and back and have never needed extra cooling with my D2. Just leave a little space above it and you should be fine.


Added: Mine is a first gen D2 and I only have 1U space above it but the 1U blanking plate is perforated.


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/18758936
> 
> 
> I have a d2 in a totally open rack is it nessary to use a cooling fan on the unit should i just run a computer fan or a thermal controled fan ? thanks in advance bert



I use 2U space in my rack, and I have not had a heating issue. No fans required.


----------



## abc999

Only the 1st gen D2's, if I recall correctly have heat issues and only on closed racks.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/18757583
> 
> 
> If you're using analog dsp I think you are not only still using the Anthem DAC but also the Anthem ADC. And that's in addition to the DAC in your PS Audio.



Understood, I shouldn't have said "bypassing the DAC"...i'm well aware that it's going thru the DAC in the PS Audio, the ADC in the D2V, and then the DAC of the D2V, to the A5 and the speakers....as crazy as this may be, the sound quality is significantly better than my old Meridian via balanced analog outs to the D2V, as well as from the PS audio transport via digital out to the D2V, or the Meridian digital out (which was at 88.1KHz) to the D2V. I suspect that the DAC on the PS Audio PWD is just that much better, though again, I also made several other changes coincident with this change, including some room treatments, so it's hard to say with 100% certainty. But again, the DAC-->ADC-->DAC process flow does not seem to be hindering the sound quality at all. Quite the opposite.


-Brian


----------



## barhoram

First Time Posting My ARC Results....


I just moved some things around in our dedicated theater, and re-ran ARC (2.4) on the D2. Looks decent to me...anyone care to comment?


Dedicated theater with a few sound treatments around the theater and bass traps behind the screen wall. Fonts and Center are Paradigm Ref. Studio 100s V3 with matching ADP side surrounds. Rear Surrounds are Paradigm Studio 20s V2. Sub is a Velodyne DD-12 with room correction turned off. Amp is a Sherbourn 7100.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/18762449
> 
> 
> First Time Posting My ARC Results....
> 
> 
> I just moved some things around in our dedicated theater, and re-ran ARC (2.4) on the D2. Looks decent to me...anyone care to comment?
> 
> 
> Dedicated theater with a few sound treatments around the theater and bass traps behind the screen wall. Fonts and Center are Paradigm Ref. Studio 100s V3 with matching ADP side surrounds. Rear Surrounds are Paradigm Studio 20s V2. Sub is a Velodyne DD-12 with room correction turned off. Amp is a Sherbourn 7100.



This comes up quite frequently now with people's results for their sub. I would try to move the sub due to the nearly 10 dB drop b/t 80- 100Hz.

This is the region where you get the "kick drum" thump in movies. I had a similar curve for my sub but once I moved it from the front right corner along the wall approx. 8', my curve flatenned out and boosted the 100 Hz region 10 dB. The LFE was so much better after this. As for your other curves, they look quite good. From looking at your room, try moving the sub 1/3 of the way along the wall towards the back. See what kind of a curve you get then and post it. Hope this helps.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I think there may really be an 80Hz crossover active in his sub.


With the Velodyne DD series subs you have to not only bypass their internal, parametric room EQ, but you also have to disable their internal crossover.


In the settings page, select the crossover value towards the upper left corner, and then hit Reset. If you've done it right ALL the crossover values should switch to "N/A".


It's also important to remember with those subs that any volume adjustment you do while setting things up must be done on the settings page and not on the front page. The reason is that if there is a power failure, the sub will come up using the volume setting on the settings page (for the Preset you have selected for power up -- i.e., the one that bypasses the EQ). Any change you make only on the front page is just "temporary".


I'd like to see a little more extension of the sub above 80Hz for the LFE channel. It won't affect the main speaker channels as they are all crossing over below that.


Other than that I see no significant problems. Don't forget to post your Targets window when you post charts.

--Bob


----------



## steven2583

I'm wondering how do you get ARC to calculate a relative flat curve for the subwoofer down to 20hz. Looking at the previous post it looks flat to 20hz. Looking at my diagram it starts rolling off at 50hz and it about 8db down at 75hz. All of my other speakers ARC is trying to match flat at 80 hz. Looking at the red subwoofer line I would think it would try to go flat across the 30hz dip and would be relative flat from 25hz to 21hz and then dropping off due to the subwoofer droping off.


----------



## barhoram

Thanks. I will fire up the sub this evening and check out if a crossover is set....I'm fairly certain I just turned off the EQ...so thats probably a correct assumption.


----------



## jayray

Bob,

do you recall an issue with the D2v where sound was very low compared to normal. Rebooting the D2v would cure it. I seem to recall someone mentioning this a while ago.

John


----------



## broker156

I have a D2 & all Paradigm speakers; 100v5 fronts, 690 center, 590 ADP surr & sub 15.


After ARC, speaker calibration: Noise level -4.0 FL +0.5 center -0.5 FR -0.5 surr R -0.5 surr L +0.5 & sub +3.0


Here are my readings. Any suggestions?

Attachment 177714 

Attachment 177715 

Attachment 177716 

 

arc 6-10-10 A.doc 79.5k . file

 

arc 6-10-10 surr center sub.doc 87.5k . file

 

arc 6-10-10 targets.doc 101k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583* /forum/post/18764121
> 
> 
> I'm wondering how do you get ARC to calculate a relative flat curve for the subwoofer down to 20hz. Looking at the previous post it looks flat to 20hz. Looking at my diagram it starts rolling off at 50hz and it about 8db down at 75hz. All of my other speakers ARC is trying to match flat at 80 hz. Looking at the red subwoofer line I would think it would try to go flat across the 30hz dip and would be relative flat from 25hz to 21hz and then dropping off due to the subwoofer droping off.



What you have here is most likely the sub's contribution to the Room Gain hump. If you post the full set of charts and the Targets window the answer should be there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18764305
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> do you recall an issue with the D2v where sound was very low compared to normal. Rebooting the D2v would cure it. I seem to recall someone mentioning this a while ago.
> 
> John



There have been several reports like that -- never explained. I've not seen this problem myself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *broker156* /forum/post/18764368
> 
> 
> I have a D2 & all Paradigm speakers; 100v5 fronts, 690 center, 590 ADP surr & sub 15.
> 
> 
> After ARC, speaker calibration: Noise level -4.0 FL +0.5 center -0.5 FR -0.5 surr R -0.5 surr L +0.5 & sub +3.0
> 
> 
> Here are my readings. Any suggestions?
> 
> Attachment 177714
> 
> Attachment 177715
> 
> Attachment 177716



Looks good to me! You could try tweaking the "cutoff" (crossover) for LF/RF down a bit -- say 40Hz -- to use some of the energy they can produce down there. Possibly C as well, but I'd probably leave C at 60.

--Bob


----------



## broker156

Bob, Thank you for your input. I'll try your idea. Do I just do into targets & change fronts to 40 & recalculate & upload? I never had a sub before & I didn't know how the chart was to look. If you say it is good then it is good!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *broker156* /forum/post/18764624
> 
> 
> Bob, Thank you for your input. I'll try your idea. Do I just do into targets & change fronts to 40 & recalculate & upload? I never had a sub before & I didn't know how the chart was to look. If you say it is good then it is good!



The sub looks fine, and yes that's how you experiment with tweaking the Targets. Make a copy of your current results file and play in the copy. You can always re-upload the original results if you don't like the tweaks.

--Bob


----------



## steven2583

Here you go Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18764305
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> do you recall an issue with the D2v where sound was very low compared to normal. Rebooting the D2v would cure it. I seem to recall someone mentioning this a while ago.
> 
> John



Greetings,


I have experienced it half a dozen times. No idea..











Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583* /forum/post/18765346
> 
> 
> Here you go Bob



What I've been calling the basic volume level of your ARC solution is 79dB. Read this as the volume of the flat part of the Targets curves to the right of the crossover frequencies.


[By the way, you can lower this to the typically recommended 75dB by lowering Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level a few dB prior to your next ARC run. ARC uses that setting to set the volume of its test tone sweeps and the basic volume of the solution.]


ARC has also found, and is attempting to preserve, almost 4dB of Room Gain. Room Gain shows on the charts as the shallow hump near the crossovers.


Now if you look at the low end of your sub, you see it crosses below 79dB -- the basic volume level -- at roughly 25Hz. And the hump to the right of that is 4dB higher. So the hump is just the sub's contribution to Room Gain and your sub is actually showing as good down to at least 25Hz. Even better if you consider the "good" point as where it drops 3dB below the basic volume.


So you are in good shape with this sub. You may be losing some of the subsonics below 20Hz but not much.


The inherent Room Gain in your room is a "desirable" room response characteristic, which is why ARC is trying to preserve it even as it rigorously stamps out other room response characteristics. Room Gain values between 2 and 4dB are typical.


Now 25Hz may be the natural bottom end of your sub. But check to see if it has a subsonic filter (low end roll off) you can disable. This may be masquerading as an adjustment for "sub too close to a wall". Lie to it and say the sub is not too close to a wall.

--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Bob, Yep! you got it. 100Hz crossover was set. Highlighting the upper left crossover frequency, then Select and Reset sets all of the presets to "Off". Bam. Immediately I got more in the chest bass....that quite frankly had been missing. Bob and ARC to the rescue! Now to re-measure!!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18763946
> 
> 
> I think there may really be an 80Hz crossover active in his sub.
> 
> 
> With the Velodyne DD series subs you have to not only bypass their internal, parametric room EQ, but you also have to disable their internal crossover.
> 
> 
> In the settings page, select the crossover value towards the upper left corner, and then hit Reset. If you've done it right ALL the crossover values should switch to "N/A".
> 
> 
> It's also important to remember with those subs that any volume adjustment you do while setting things up must be done on the settings page and not on the front page. The reason is that if there is a power failure, the sub will come up using the volume setting on the settings page (for the Preset you have selected for power up -- i.e., the one that bypasses the EQ). Any change you make only on the front page is just "temporary".
> 
> 
> I'd like to see a little more extension of the sub above 80Hz for the LFE channel. It won't affect the main speaker channels as they are all crossing over below that.
> 
> 
> Other than that I see no significant problems. Don't forget to post your Targets window when you post charts.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

I stated about a week ago I rec'd my D2 back from repair.I've been having a few problems since I got it back and I need some advice.

The Oppo BD 83 is connected to the #1 hdmi and is working ok. The oppo 983 SD is connected to the #2 hdmi and it turns on with a Magenta colored screen ever since I rec'd it back. I would change it to 4:2:2 and then back to 4:4:4 and everything would work ok from then, until I turned it off and back on. Then I'd have the same problem. I figured it's a hdmi handshake issue. I changed wires did on/off with the oppo and D2. Still no fix. Today I turned the D2 and the oppo on and I get nothing except the D2 seems like it's trying to connect (small horizontal white flashes on the screen).

I also have a Samsung hdtv tuner and this unit never worked (blank screen) since I got the D2 back from repair.

When I sent the unit in for repair they replaced the original gray/green video board with the newer red board. I had the D2 set to v.147f but I rec'd it back set to the v1.33. I'm wondering if a re-install of the v.1.33 will fix the above problems.

It's not been fun, any help appreciated.


Ken


----------



## smkss

I have a 5.1 setup and was wondering if there a way to change 5.1 sound from my cable box to Anthem Logic Cinema or another setting which will produce sound from all speakers?


The reason I want to do this is there are some sporting events which are in 5.1 but there is no output from my surrounds and it would be nice to have something coming out of my surrounds


----------



## barhoram

New ARC results after correcting the Sub's crossover issue:




















Looks like it's just about done downloading the new curves to the D2. Now for the real test...let's fire up a movie


----------



## politby

I want to replace the standard rubber feet on my AVM50 with chromed ones. The standard ones don't look to good in my setup, all my other gear is on chromed feet:











Anyone know of a source for chromed feet which will fit the AVM50?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18766369
> 
> 
> I stated about a week ago I rec'd my D2 back from repair.I've been having a few problems since I got it back and I need some advice.
> 
> The Oppo BD 83 is connected to the #1 hdmi and is working ok. The oppo 983 SD is connected to the #2 hdmi and it turns on with a Magenta colored screen ever since I rec'd it back. I would change it to 4:2:2 and then back to 4:4:4 and everything would work ok from then, until I turned it off and back on. Then I'd have the same problem. I figured it's a hdmi handshake issue. I changed wires did on/off with the oppo and D2. Still no fix. Today I turned the D2 and the oppo on and I get nothing except the D2 seems like it's trying to connect (small horizontal white flashes on the screen).
> 
> I also have a Samsung hdtv tuner and this unit never worked (blank screen) since I got the D2 back from repair.
> 
> When I sent the unit in for repair they replaced the original gray/green video board with the newer red board. I had the D2 set to v.147f but I rec'd it back set to the v1.33. I'm wondering if a re-install of the v.1.33 will fix the above problems.
> 
> It's not been fun, any help appreciated.
> 
> 
> Ken



I suggest you go back to "test" V1.47f.


For the player(s) having problems, set their HDMI output to a fixed format rather than Auto. Typically you will use YCbCr 4:4:4. Similarly, set the video output data format of the D2 to a fixed format to go to your display. For an HDMI to HDMI connection that will typically be YCbCr 4:4:4. For an HDMI to DVI connection that will typically be Studio RGB. Both of these explicit settings simplify the handshake.


For the Samsung tuner, double check the cabling -- i.e., that things are plugged into the socket you think you are using and that Setup > Source Setup is actually using that socket, and that the cable is fully inserted straight into the socket at both ends.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18765969
> 
> 
> Now 25Hz may be the natural bottom end of your sub. But check to see if it has a subsonic filter (low end roll off) you can disable. This may be masquerading as an adjustment for "sub too close to a wall". Lie to it and say the sub is not too close to a wall.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


For the Velodyne DD Series, you lie to it and say the sub is not too close to a wall by setting THX BG COMPENSATION to Off right? It's ok to leave THX ULTRA 2 SUB to Yes correct?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smkss* /forum/post/18766394
> 
> 
> I have a 5.1 setup and was wondering if there a way to change 5.1 sound from my cable box to Anthem Logic Cinema or another setting which will produce sound from all speakers?
> 
> 
> The reason I want to do this is there are some sporting events which are in 5.1 but there is no output from my surrounds and it would be nice to have something coming out of my surrounds



smkss:


1. You need to change the sound settings in your cable box to stereo outputs. This works but is not as convinient.


2. Or if your box allows simultaneous sound from the MCH and analog stereo outputs, then I'd make another cable box setting within the Anthem that accepts the audio from the stereo outputs of the cable box as its main audio with similar settings as the main cable box setting that you use for MCH audio.


David


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks Bob,

I've been using YCbCR 4:4:4. I changed it to the 4:2:2 setting briefly and then changed it back to 4:4:4 to (kick start it). It worked, but whenever I shut it off and turned it back on I had the same problem. The big difference now is that it won't show anything on the screen.

To set the sd dvd and the tuner I have to be able to pull up a menu and so far I haven't been able to do that. If v1.47f works I'll give a look .

We have some people coming over tonight to watch a movie (better be BD). My wife says don't touch anything until tomorrow since the BD works. I'll try installing v 1.47f tomorrow though.

Thanks Again,

Ken


----------



## smkss




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18766930
> 
> 
> smkss:
> 
> 
> 1. You need to change the sound settings in your cable box to stereo outputs. This works but is not as convinient.
> 
> 
> 2. Or if your box allows simultaneous sound from the MCH and analog stereo outputs, then I'd make another cable box setting within the Anthem that accepts the audio from the stereo outputs of the cable box as its main audio with similar settings as the main cable box setting that you use for MCH audio.
> 
> 
> David



Thanks David! I believe this method will work.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18766878
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> For the Velodyne DD Series, you lie to it and say the sub is not too close to a wall by setting THX BG COMPENSATION to Off right? It's ok to leave THX ULTRA 2 SUB to Yes correct?



Both of those settings are automatically ignored if you are using ARC.


If you need to turn off anything it would be in the settings page of the DD itself.

--Bob


----------



## Pixiu

Quick question for the experts. Would like to take a Direct TV DVR put it in the living room. That is my main source of watching TV so DVR runs into HDMI 1 and out HDMI 1 on the D2V. This is all working just fine. What I would like to do is run another HDMI cable out of the HDMI OUT #2 on the D2V into a Denon Receiver in the bedroom so I can then run the bedroom TV and sound from there. I plan to control all this through the Harmony Remote IR Extender system so I know that will work but my question is how to best do all this through the D2V? How do I get true independent viewing and sound in each room all running through the D2V? I know I cannot watch different things in each room but what I do want is just picture and sound in the bedroom and then picture and sound in the living room. I should mention both rooms are wired for 7.1 sound just in cast that matters. Hopefully this is enough information for a quick answer but if not please let me know what other information I need to provide. My main concern is that I would guess picture and sound will easily come through HDMI #2 into the Denon but if I have to have the D2V on to do this then I would guess the sound will be coming out of the Living room setup as well??? So not sure how to do this? Guessing this is where I need to use Zone's??? Help please.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18766989
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> I've been using YCbCR 4:4:4. I changed it to the 4:2:2 setting briefly and then changed it back to 4:4:4 to (kick start it). It worked, but whenever I shut it off and turned it back on I had the same problem. The big difference now is that it won't show anything on the screen.
> 
> To set the sd dvd and the tuner I have to be able to pull up a menu and so far I haven't been able to do that. If v1.47f works I'll give a look .
> 
> We have some people coming over tonight to watch a movie (better be BD). My wife says don't touch anything until tomorrow since the BD works. I'll try installing v 1.47f tomorrow though.
> 
> Thanks Again,
> 
> Ken



Run composite video direct from the device to the TV to access its menus.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18767192
> 
> 
> Both of those settings are automatically ignored if you are using ARC.
> 
> 
> If you need to turn off anything it would be in the settings page of the DD itself.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, that's right. I completely forgot about that. Thanks for reminding me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pixiu* /forum/post/18767413
> 
> 
> Quick question for the experts. Would like to take a Direct TV DVR put it in the living room. That is my main source of watching TV so DVR runs into HDMI 1 and out HDMI 1 on the D2V. This is all working just fine. What I would like to do is run another HDMI cable out of the HDMI OUT #2 on the D2V into a Denon Receiver in the bedroom so I can then run the bedroom TV and sound from there. I plan to control all this through the Harmony Remote IR Extender system so I know that will work but my question is how to best do all this through the D2V? How do I get true independent viewing and sound in each room all running through the D2V? I know I cannot watch different things in each room but what I do want is just picture and sound in the bedroom and then picture and sound in the living room. I should mention both rooms are wired for 7.1 sound just in cast that matters. Hopefully this is enough information for a quick answer but if not please let me know what other information I need to provide. My main concern is that I would guess picture and sound will easily come through HDMI #2 into the Denon but if I have to have the D2V on to do this then I would guess the sound will be coming out of the Living room setup as well??? So not sure how to do this? Guessing this is where I need to use Zone's??? Help please.



The D2v alone will not do what you want. Zone 2 is designed for Component video and stereo audio.


To get 7.1 sound into a second zone you would need something like a 7.1 line-level A/B switch to divert the output of the D2v to the separate power amps in the second zone. If you don't mind the same video playing in both zones you can use the HDMI 2 output to drive the display in the second zone. Note that D2v on screen info does not appear on the HDMI 2 output.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/18765944
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I have experienced it half a dozen times. No idea..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



I've let Nick know about this.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18759521
> 
> 
> Only the 1st gen D2's, if I recall correctly have heat issues and only on closed racks.



NONE of the D2's have heat issues. Although there was much speculation early on that the original D2 had a heat issue, and it was certainly the case that the original D2 power supply threw off more heat than the current power supply, the reality was that all of the supposed heat issues actually turned out to be something else -- i.e., HDMI handshake bugs that had to get fixed.


Basically, unless your D2 or D2v gets so hot that it produces its thermal shutdown warning you won't have an operational issue. As with all electronics, if you can keep them cooler they will last longer so letting your D2 or D2v sit in an oven (e.g., a closed cabinet with insufficient ventilation) is surely reducing its life expectancy even if it doesn't produce thermal shutdown.


If concerned about temperature, the thing to measure is the heating up of the cabinet walls surrounding the Anthem. The Anthem vents are SUPPOSED to get warm -- that's how the heat gets out. So long as there is sufficient ventilation to dissipate that heat you are good to go. But if the heat gets trapped such that the cabinet walls around the processor heat up say more than 10-15 degrees F above ambient air temperature, then you have your processor in an oven and it won't be happy.


Remote sensing thermometers of the type sold in cooking stores are useful for this. They often look like a gun and have a laser beam for aiming (which has nothing to do with the temp measurement itself despite the marketing names such as "laser temp probe"). Point the sensor at the inside of the cabinet wall you need to test for temperature.

--Bob


----------



## JimP

Bob,

Interesting information.

Is the 10-15 degree thing a good guide for all electronics or will it vary depending on the component...such as an amplifier?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/18768815
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Interesting information.
> 
> Is the 10-15 degree thing a good guide for all electronics or will it vary depending on the component...such as an amplifier?



I don't know that it's good for all electronics, but it seems like a reasonable rule of thumb for well made electronics. I.e., that they will be engineered to tolerate that. Power amps throw off more heat, but they've also typically got more heat sink surface area to dissipate that heat. If the ventilation around the amp is good enough that the surfaces facing the amp don't heat up (and thus re-radiate) beyond a modest level like this, then the amp should be happy.


Since heated air rises, the open air space above the device is usually the critical dimension and the temperature of the surface above the device will usually tell you what you need to know about whether natural ventilation is working or whether you need to add a fan.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18767442
> 
> 
> Run composite video direct from the device to the TV to access its menus.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Thanks, I think the D2 gave me a "DUH" moment. I should have known to do what you said. I've done it enough in the past. I tried the dvd player and the tv tuner with both hdmi and composite direct to the projector and both of them worked with either cable. I'll be receiving a new hdtv tuner tomorrow for not thinking. At least this one has a dvr built in. I think I was due for an upgrade.

I loaded v.147f into the D2 today. Everything went ok. I just need to put it back into my system. More later.

Ken


----------



## ninja12

I had to make some furniture rearrangements to my listening room today. Therefore, I had to redo ARC. The measurements looks pretty good to me; but, it's always good to get others opinions. So, here are my charts. Please take a look and let me know what you think.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18770627
> 
> 
> I had to make some furniture rearrangements to my listening room today. Therefore, I had to redo ARC. The measurements looks pretty good to me; but, it's always good to get others opinions. So, here are my charts. Please take a look and let me know what you think.



Looks good to me, unless you want to experiment again with raising Max EQ Frequency Target.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18770748
> 
> 
> Looks good to me, unless you want to experiment again with raising Max EQ Frequency Target.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for looking at my charts and the feedback Bob.


----------



## Kensmith48

I loaded v1.47f today and it looks like everything works. The sd dvd was ok the 1st time I turned it on but the 2nd time it was the magenta color. I played around with the hdmi cable and now it seems like it's ok. The hdtv tuner is also running ok.

The new problem: I ran ARC again since I loaded v1.47f. I set my Radio Shack meter to 75db and I set the speaker level in the D2 at -0.5. With v1.33 the level was set at +2.5 to get 75db. I ran ARC and all of the settings are at 85 db. Why would there be a 10db increase? More bugs or is this normal?


Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/18771457
> 
> 
> I loaded v1.47f today and it looks like everything works. The sd dvd was ok the 1st time I turned it on but the 2nd time it was the magenta color. I played around with the hdmi cable and now it seems like it's ok. The hdtv tuner is also running ok.
> 
> The new problem: I ran ARC again since I loaded v1.47f. I set my Radio Shack meter to 75db and I set the speaker level in the D2 at -0.5. With v1.33 the level was set at +2.5 to get 75db. I ran ARC and all of the settings are at 85 db. Why would there be a 10db increase? More bugs or is this normal?
> 
> 
> Ken



This is likely the unexplained 6dB bug in ARC (yes 6 not 10). Lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level 6dB below where it is now before your next ARC run. No other changes are need in Level Calibration, and whatever you set earlier today for your sub's internal volume should also not be changed if the volume trim ARC Uploaded for it confirms the sub has been properly preset to be in balance.


The 3dB difference in settings with the SPL meter may simply be due to not using the SPL meter the same way with both firmware versions. For example it has to be on the same range to get a consistent reading and that range should be the one that puts the desired result in the middle of the range. On the Radio Shack digital SPL meter that means using the 70dB range setting when going for 75dB. Anyway, all you really need to do now is tweak Test Level to close in on a 75dB basic volume level in your ARC solution as shown on the ARC charts. No need to go back to the SPL meter. If you've got 75dB on the charts and if all of the volume trims ARC Uploads are a few dB either side of 0dB (no extreme trims like 8dB or more) then you are good to go.


It could also just be that your SPL meter needs fresh batteries.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Bob,

It doesn't look like a 6db increase to me I counted the lines and I could see a 8 db. increase but not 6. some speakers are 8 some are 10. I thought of going the lower db with the meter but it's just not what I should have to do. There is definately a bug with V.1.47f.

You could be right about the batteries. I tried going down to 65db and 70 but it seems like I had to go down to -5.0 to get there. Something isn't right. I'll check all avenues.


Thanks Again,

Ken


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Most computer equipment has a 95F max inlet air temp limit, that is a maximum and is not necessarily what gives the equipment its longest life.


It is up to the equipment design to ensure that there is adequate airflow to cool the equipment. That design presumes enough fresh un recirculated air and no restriction on the air leaving. Either problem can cause equipment failure.


The air entering the equipment (typically vens in the bottom for home CE) should be very close to the room air temp. The discharge air temp will vary by design. On of my duties at work is to see that our servers stay cool at a reasonable cost. The equipment we run has delta T's of 12 to 35 degrees. So a normal exaust temp with entering air at 78 degrees is anywhere from 90 to 113 degrees.


One approach I use at work is to measure the air and equipmnet surface delta T with as much free air around the equipment as possible and then compare that to what you see racked with other gear around it. Baseline and real world so to speak. Then you have a good idea about what racking the gear is doing to cooling.


One thing to remember about the laster temp measures is that they do not measure temp at the point the laser hits, that is the center. The sensor looks thru a cone so to speak so the further away the larger of an area that is being averaged to give the reading. Something to consider when taking measurements.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/18768815
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Interesting information.
> 
> Is the 10-15 degree thing a good guide for all electronics or will it vary depending on the component...such as an amplifier?


----------



## SMabille_UK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18764305
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> do you recall an issue with the D2v where sound was very low compared to normal. Rebooting the D2v would cure it. I seem to recall someone mentioning this a while ago.
> 
> John



Hi JayRay,


Had the same issue a couple of time the last week, I'm running latest beta.

Power-cycle fix the problem. Had it yesterday at power-up, not sure about the fist time if it was at start-up or changing source.


Stephane.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SMabille_UK* /forum/post/18772844
> 
> 
> Hi JayRay,
> 
> 
> Had the same issue a couple of time the last week, I'm running latest beta.
> 
> Power-cycle fix the problem. Had it yesterday at power-up, not sure about the fist time if it was at start-up or changing source.
> 
> 
> Stephane.



Thanks Stephane, I will let Nick know.

John


----------



## politby

Received my ARC upgrade kit today. I read somewhere that ARC does not measure speaker distances - do I have to do that manually?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18773513
> 
> 
> Received my ARC upgrade kit today. I read somewhere that ARC does not measure speaker distances - do I have to do that manually?



Yes, but I'm sure you will get it closer than than other programs that say they can do it. Tape measures rarely make mistakes.









John


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18773526
> 
> 
> Yes, but I'm sure you will get it closer than than other programs that say they can do it. Tape measures rarely make mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John













Okay, so I measure the speaker distances and enter them into the AVM50 setup before I use ARC? Or does ARC ask for them?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18773773
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, so I measure the speaker distances and enter them into the AVM50 setup before I use ARC? Or does ARC ask for them?
> 
> 
> Thanks



ARC does not ask for them. You enter them manually in the Setup menu and ARC preserves them when it does the Upload. Measure from the speaker grill to the center seating seated ear position.


NOTE FOR NEWBIES: The length of speaker wire going to each speaker is irrelevant. The electrical signals on the speaker wire travel at the speed of light so you could have speaker wire lengths that vary by a mile and not hear the difference. The speaker distance setting corrects for the travel time through the air for the sound from each speaker to your ears so that they blend well. This is particularly important for movie surround sound so that the positioning of sounds in the surround field matches what you expect. Dipole speakers work by bouncing the sound off the walls so they have no precise distance. If you set your Side or Rear surrounds to Dipole, the Anthem will automatically use the distance adjustment equal to the farthest of your other speakers. Obviously you can't get the precise distance/timing adjustment for all seating positions. Set it up for your center seating position and it will be close enough for your other seating positions.


Since ARC only listens to one speaker at a time it is not affected by things that only happen when two or more speakers are playing together, such as whether they are matched in timing. So you can enter the speaker distances either before or after doing your ARC setup. Things will just sound better when the distances are correct.


You also need to set the subwoofer's Polarity/Phase manually. See the post links in the Set Up section in the first post of this thread for some guidance. If you only have one subwoofer you can also set Polarity/Phase after doing the ARC stuff. If you have more than one subwoofer you must adjust subwoofer Polarity/Phase for all your subs *BEFORE* doing your ARC Measurements, and since Phase is a function of distance that means you must also enter the correct speaker distances prior to doing the sub stuff (i.e., prior to Measuring for ARC).


If you have more than one sub, power one at a time and set the Polarity/Phase for each to best match with LF. When each sub is in proper phase with LF then they will also be in proper phase with each other. It is best to have the volume trims roughly in balance before attempting to hear phase adjustments (see below). Note that you must use controls built into each sub, as the Setup menu controls for Polarity and Phase affect all the sub outputs -- i.e., there's no separate control for each sub. If you only have one sub, then you can use the Anthem's Setup menu controls for Polarity/Phase.


You must also correctly set whether your side and rear surround speakers are dipole or direct firing.


And I recommend you do some preliminary volume trim setting before your first ARC Measurement pass:


1) In Setup > Level Calibration, zero out ALL the lines (set all to 0dB)


2) Set Test Mode to Manual


3) Scroll down one to the Test Level line. Noise will be coming from the LF speaker. Adjust the Test Level line until you get 75dB SPL at your center seating location (what will be ARC mic position #1). Use your trusty, Radio Shack SPL meter, pointing straight up at seated ear height and held at arm's length and away from reflective surfaces like seat backs. This adjustment sets the volume of ARC's test sweep tones and the basic volume level of the ARC solution.


4) Scroll down to either subwoofer line. Noise will be coming from the subwoofer. Leave that line at 0dB, and instead adjust using the volume knob on the sub itself until you get 75dB SPL measured as above. This insures your sub is already roughly in balance with the main speakers. If you have more than one subwoofer then power one at a time and adjust each separately. You will need a smaller SPL for each as the outputs add. For example with 2 subs, typically you will set each to 72dB SPL which will give you roughly 75dB SPL when they are playing together. Hitting precisely 75dB SPL when the subs play together is not that important. What's important is that each sub (played alone) is set to the SAME output level so they blend well.


Ballpark settings are fine for these preliminary 75dB adjustments as ARC will determine and Upload the precise volume trims (leaving your Test Level line unchanged so you only have to do the above steps prior to your first ARC run so long as you don't move things around or accidentally alter the volume knob on the sub). During Measurement, ARC ignores all of the current volume trims (except for Test Level), so you don't have to zero them out prior to each run.


NOTE 1: Actually, ARC goes in and zeroes them prior to Measurement and then replaces them during the Upload. So if you abort ARC and DON'T do an Upload they will be left at 0dB, which is probably not correct! Fix this by Reloading Saved User or Installer Settings, or by opening and Uploading whatever earlier ARC results file you actually like.


NOTE 2: Some folks have found their ARC results 6-10dB hotter than expected after the above. This is the unexplained 6dB ARC bug. Determine the basic volume level of your ARC solution by looking at the flat part of the black, dashed Targets curves to the right of the crossover frequencies. If that's closer to 85dB than to 75dB then lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level by an additional 6dB prior to your next ARC run (no need to use the SPL meter or alter any other settings in that menu or on the sub). I.e., if your preliminary value for Test Level was +2dB and you see this problem, then change Test Level to -4dB prior to your next ARC Measurement pass.


After each good ARC Upload, remember to Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture the Setup menu changes you have made as well as the ones ARC has just Uploaded for you. This makes sure you don't accidentally undo things later by Reloading from either of these memories.


After your FIRST ARC Upload, also go into Setup > Source Setup for each Source and make sure ROOM EQ = ON is set for each so that your ARC solution actually gets used for each Source.


Another very important adjustment is to make sure all of your main speakers are wired with the same polarity. Calibration discs typically have a test you can use for this. If any pair of speakers is wired with opposite polarity then you will not be able to properly locate sounds that are supposed to be playing between them. Obviously, this too is a one time adjustment and can be checked/corrected either before or after doing ARC setup. Set correct distances and at least roughly balanced volume trims for ALL speakers before checking this. Set the volume trims manually before checking this or check this after you've done your first ARC Upload.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

NOTE 2: Some folks have found their ARC results 6-10dB hotter than expected after the above. This is the unexplained 6dB ARC bug. Determine the basic volume level of your ARC solution by looking at the flat part of the black, dashed Targets curves to the right of the crossover frequencies. If that's closer to 85dB than to 75dB then lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level by an additional 6dB prior to your next ARC run (no need to use the SPL meter or alter any other settings in that menu or on the sub). I.e., if your preliminary value for Test Level was +2dB and you see this problem, then change Test Level to -4dB prior to your next ARC Measurement pass.


Bob,

Thanks for all the info. I'm using v1.47f with my D2 as I stated earlier. My speaker level at 75db was -0.5. I was close to 85db though after running arc. I tried going to -2.0, then -3.0 and finally I went to -6.5. This put me in the 75-76 db range. I was ready to upload v1.33 back into the D2 then I saw the above. Thanks for helping out and saving me alot of time.


Ken


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

I have a D2 P5 MCA50 and all PARADIGM speakers V5 100's cc690 sub15 adp's x 4 should i use balanced cables ? i have heard they make a difference in the sound quality.

thanks for your imput


bert


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My recommendation would be no, but as long as you don't go overboard in price, there's no reason not to get them if you like them. They certainly look impressive. It is highly unlikely you will hear any difference compared to decent quality, shielded RCA cables.


The purpose of balanced (XLR) cables is to help reject interference over long runs. That's why they are used in professional setups where the runs are long and the sources of interference are myriad. And there's no denying they look cool with the big, locking connectors.


In an XLR cable the signal is sent two ways, either side of ground, and combined at the far end. Any interference would effect both signal paths equally (in theory) so that it is automatically subtracted out when the two paths are recombined.


But in a home setup, decent quality shielded RCA cables are already more than sufficient to reject the modest sources of interference over what are only short runs to begin with.

--Bob


----------



## cargen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18773526
> 
> 
> Yes, but I'm sure you will get it closer than than other programs that say they can do it. Tape measures rarely make mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Or a laser measurer, which is what I use to set speaker distances in my D2.


Especially helpful and accurate for measuring to/from my 7 ceiling mounted Thiel Powerpoint 1.2's coupled with 2 wall-recessed Velodyne DD-15 subwoofers.


Chris


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cargen* /forum/post/18778386
> 
> 
> Or a laser measurer, which is what I use to set speaker distances in my D2.
> 
> 
> Especially helpful and accurate for measuring to/from my 7 ceiling mounted Thiel Powerpoint 1.2's coupled with 2 wall-recessed Velodyne DD-15 subwoofers.
> 
> Chris



Luckily I have dipoles so no measuring required







The point I was making was that programs like Audessey which claim they measure distances likely would be checked with some type of manual measurement by the user just to make sure. I have read reports of issues with sub distance accuracy so I guess my feeling is measure it yourself, it won't be worse than what the program does and may be better.

John


----------



## steven2583




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18765969
> 
> 
> What I've been calling the basic volume level of your ARC solution is 79dB. Read this as the volume of the flat part of the Targets curves to the right of the crossover frequencies.
> 
> 
> [By the way, you can lower this to the typically recommended 75dB by lowering Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level a few dB prior to your next ARC run. ARC uses that setting to set the volume of its test tone sweeps and the basic volume of the solution.]
> 
> 
> ARC has also found, and is attempting to preserve, almost 4dB of Room Gain. Room Gain shows on the charts as the shallow hump near the crossovers.
> 
> 
> Now if you look at the low end of your sub, you see it crosses below 79dB -- the basic volume level -- at roughly 25Hz. And the hump to the right of that is 4dB higher. So the hump is just the sub's contribution to Room Gain and your sub is actually showing as good down to at least 25Hz. Even better if you consider the "good" point as where it drops 3dB below the basic volume.
> 
> 
> So you are in good shape with this sub. You may be losing some of the subsonics below 20Hz but not much.
> 
> 
> The inherent Room Gain in your room is a "desirable" room response characteristic, which is why ARC is trying to preserve it even as it rigorously stamps out other room response characteristics. Room Gain values between 2 and 4dB are typical.
> 
> 
> Now 25Hz may be the natural bottom end of your sub. But check to see if it has a subsonic filter (low end roll off) you can disable. This may be masquerading as an adjustment for "sub too close to a wall". Lie to it and say the sub is not too close to a wall.
> 
> --Bob



My rumble filter on my Sub it at 19hz. So I don't think that it is causing the drop off. Must be the limits of the sub in it's current position. The original specifications of the sub I thought it would be running down to 18hz. It's a DYI


Is it better to do all of the measurements at 75db then at 80db?


Thanks Bob.


----------



## jb5200

Hi there,


I am interested in replacing my Yamaha RX-V1600 as a pre/pro for my audio rig only. I have it connected to a PS Audio DL III dac and computer for music server.


I like processed sound (EQ) and would like room correction so that's what leads me to the Anthem (ARC) but I am wondering about the DAC and SQ between the D1 and D2. I know the video processor is much better in the D2 but I don't need that. Would the D1 DAC be better than my PS Audio so that I can remove that from the chain?


My Speakers are Paradigm S8v2 and amps are Emotiva XPA-1's so the power and sound shouldn't be a problem.


Thanks


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/18777041
> 
> 
> I have a D2 P5 MCA50 and all PARADIGM speakers V5 100's cc690 sub15 adp's x 4 should i use balanced cables ? i have heard they make a difference in the sound quality.
> 
> thanks for your imput
> 
> 
> bert



I have all my cable connections using Balanced XLR all out. I just used Belden microphone cables and Neutrik connectors(DIY). It turned out to be much cheaper than medium priced pre-terminated RCA cables. There is a 6dB difference on the output between the 2 types therefore you don't want to mix them if possible. If you're amp is near the speaker being driven and the D2 is on another location then a XLR cabling system is a must as anything longer than 6 ft for the RCA type could compromise electrical characteristics of the interconnect.


It is always more often that the subwoofer is located much farther than the equipment rack and therefore would run a longer cable than the rest of the interconnects. This alone would be a good reason why you shoud go with the XLR route.


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/18780785
> 
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> 
> I am interested in replacing my Yamaha RX-V1600 as a pre/pro for my audio rig only. I have it connected to a PS Audio DL III dac and computer for music server.
> 
> 
> I like processed sound (EQ) and would like room correction so that's what leads me to the Anthem (ARC) but I am wondering about the DAC and SQ between the D1 and D2. I know the video processor is much better in the D2 but I don't need that. Would the D1 DAC be better than my PS Audio so that I can remove that from the chain?
> 
> 
> My Speakers are Paradigm S8v2 and amps are Emotiva XPA-1's so the power and sound shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Although I don't have a PSA DL3 and I don't have a D1/D2, I do have an AVM-50 w/arc, PSA GCC-250 (Front channels and HT Bypass), and a PSA PWD. Right now I prefer the PSA GCC-250 being fed directly by the PSA PWD with the AVM-50 not even in the loop for CD and high-res 2 channel audio.


----------



## politby

ARC will not run on my Windows 7 system. Says it can't find a valid microphone.


Anthem support says they are "aware of an issue with Windows 7" but did not elaborate.


I have the correct serial numbers, the mic is recognized by Windows, driver installed, etc.


I have ARC v2.4. Anyone successfully running it in Windows 7?


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18786693
> 
> 
> ARC will not run on my Windows 7 system. Says it can't find a valid microphone.
> 
> 
> Anthem support says they are "aware of an issue with Windows 7" but did not elaborate.
> 
> 
> I have the correct serial numbers, the mic is recognized by Windows, driver installed, etc.
> 
> 
> I have ARC v2.4. Anyone successfully running it in Windows 7?



I have run it on Windows 7 a couple of times without any glitchs.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/18780785
> 
> 
> I like processed sound (EQ) and would like room correction so that's what leads me to the Anthem (ARC)



I like EQ too. Can the Anthem provide it?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18786693
> 
> 
> ARC will not run on my Windows 7 system. Says it can't find a valid microphone.
> 
> 
> Anthem support says they are "aware of an issue with Windows 7" but did not elaborate.
> 
> 
> I have the correct serial numbers, the mic is recognized by Windows, driver installed, etc.
> 
> 
> I have ARC v2.4. Anyone successfully running it in Windows 7?



I have run ARC v2.4 over 10 times, since I got my new sub, and have not had a problem. V2.4 was supposed to have fixed this issue.

John


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18786693
> 
> 
> ARC will not run on my Windows 7 system. Says it can't find a valid microphone.
> 
> 
> Anthem support says they are "aware of an issue with Windows 7" but did not elaborate.
> 
> 
> I have the correct serial numbers, the mic is recognized by Windows, driver installed, etc.
> 
> 
> I have ARC v2.4. Anyone successfully running it in Windows 7?



Hi Politby,


I also run ARC v2.4 on Windows 7 pro OK. Have you tried connecting the microphone to different USB Ports? If using a USB Hub, you may wish to connect the mic directly to the computer at least one time to allow the computer to enumerate it properly.


Good Speed,

Mike


----------



## Lorival

Friends,


Please somebody can tell me how to make the rs232 cable to upgrade my avm50?


thanks,

Lorival


----------



## broker156

I had the same problem with Vista. But, if I plug in the usb to the computer before I turn on the laptop it works 100% of the time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lorival* /forum/post/18787285
> 
> 
> Friends,
> 
> 
> Please somebody can tell me how to make the rs232 cable to upgrade my avm50?
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Lorival



As the Manual says, all you need is a "straight through" serial cable (pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9), available where computer stuff is sold -- e.g., Radio Shack in the US.


Be careful not to purchase a "null modem" serial cable, which looks the same but swaps one pair of pins.


The end that attaches to the Anthem needs to be a "D9" connector, which is standard for serial cables these days.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583* /forum/post/18780413
> 
> 
> My rumble filter on my Sub it at 19hz. So I don't think that it is causing the drop off. Must be the limits of the sub in it's current position. The original specifications of the sub I thought it would be running down to 18hz. It's a DYI
> 
> 
> Is it better to do all of the measurements at 75db then at 80db?
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.



Commercial movie theaters are set for 85dB to cover crowd noise. That's usually considered too loud for home theaters. The recommendation is to target 75dB for home. It really doesn't make much difference what you pick since you can adjust the volume knob.


The ARC solution corresponds to a volume setting of -10dB, so if you set for 75dB you can get louder by setting the volume knob higher while watching.


All of this is for "reference level" inputs. Be aware that PEAK volumes from your inputs can be quite a bit louder than this. 15dB more for example.

--Bob


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

anyone ever hook a xbox 360 up to a d2 ? i want to use hdmi .


bert


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18787134
> 
> 
> I have run ARC v2.4 over 10 times, since I got my new sub, and have not had a problem. V2.4 was supposed to have fixed this issue.
> 
> John



I tried using a laptop instead of the HTPC I started out with, and got a little further but it still does not work right.


ARC connects to the AVM50, identifies the microphone, tells me to move the mic to the first position and starts measuring the front left speaker. It sends test tones for maybe about a minute and then stops, displaying the following message box:











If I then try to repeat the measurement, either the exact same thing happens again, or I get an error saying ARC can not find the AVM50 unit. In the latter case, I have to reboot the computer otherwise it will not find the AVM50. I am using the Anthem-recommended Keyspan serial adapter.


No amount of repetitions will make it work.


Any suggestions?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18788868
> 
> 
> I tried using a laptop instead of the HTPC I started out with, and got a little further but it still does not work right.
> 
> 
> ARC connects to the AVM50, identifies the microphone, tells me to move the mic to the first position and starts measuring the front left speaker. It sends test tones for maybe about a minute and then stops, displaying the following message box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I then try to repeat the measurement, either the exact same thing happens again, or I get an error saying ARC can not find the AVM50 unit. In the latter case, I have to reboot the computer otherwise it will not find the AVM50. I am using the Anthem-recommended Keyspan serial adapter.
> 
> 
> No amount of repetitions will make it work.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?



Do you have the latest Keyspan drivers for Windows 7 or even the latest for whichever OS is on your laptop? This made a diff for me when using Vista. I had the driver for Win7 before my first attempt and everything has worked fine.

John


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18788995
> 
> 
> Do you have the latest Keyspan drivers for Windows 7 or even the latest for whichever OS is on your laptop? This made a diff for me when using Vista. I had the driver for Win7 before my first attempt and everything has worked fine.
> 
> John



Yes, I am using the latest Keyspan drivers for Win 7. I have now tried this on 3 different computers with the same results.


Maybe the microphone is kaput.










It should not be this hard to get something this expensive to work.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC V2.4 is known to work on Windows 7.


There are several possibilities:


1) The mic or mic cable is broken. Anthem will swap out a mic for you. You will also need to get a replacement mic calibration file from them. Try a different USB cable as well just to see if you can get ARC to work. It does not have to be a long cable. If ARC works with the temporary cable, Anthem will of course get you a replacement, long cable.


2) Your Windows 7 installation (on all 3 computers) is deficient in some way. The most likely scenario is that you have done a minimal or partial install and the microphone audio capture framework in Windows that ARC uses is not installed -- i.e., you have declined to install Windows media components. This can easily happen if the computers were set up for business use. This should be easy to correct using your original Windows 7 install disc and going in to load optional components.


3) Your ARC V2.4 installation is faulty -- perhaps the copy on your install disc is bad. Download a fresh copy of ARC V2.4 from the Anthem site. Unzip it. Dive into the resulting folder until you find the Setup.exe file (the installer). Now insert your original ARC install disc. If the installer starts automatically, just quit out of it. Now dive into that disc and find the folder on the disc with Setup.exe in it. In that folder you will find two files with names made up of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem processor and the serial number of your ARC mic. Copy both of those files from the disc to the folder you just downloaded and unzipped so that the two files are now in that folder in the same place as the Setup.exe program. Now eject your ARC install CD. Next go into Windows Add/Remove programs, find the line for ARC and uninstall ARC. Next reboot your computer. If there is still a shortcut for ARC V2.4 on your desktop, delete it now to avoid confusion. Next go back into that folder you downloaded and unzipped and double click on Setup.exe to run the installer. There is another file in there with a name containing Setup. Don't double click on that one. Find Setup.exe in there and double click on it. Once the install completes, reboot your computer yet again. At this point there should be a new shortcut on your desktop pointing to the newly installed version of ARC V2.4. The installer will have also copied over the 2 licensing/calibration files into Windows > Program Files as part of the install. Double click on the shortcut to run ARC -- i.e., do *NOT* run the copy of ARC that is still in the folder you downloaded and unzipped.


4) Something in your Windows installation is interfering with the operation of the USB port. Try turning off virus protection and software firewall. There were reports with Windows Vista that both of those caused problems on some computers. Make sure the mic USB cable is plugged into the computer directly (not via a hub, not plugged into a keyboard). Try disconnecting any other USB devices you might be using (e.g., USB mouse). When thinking this through, consider that whatever is going wrong here has happened on 3 computers, so consider what you have in your USB setup or Windows settings that might be the same on all 3 computers.


5) You are positioning the mic incorrectly. Do not lean the mic tip against anything for example, as that might vibrate during the test tones and read as an invalid test tone.


6) Your ARC test sweep tones are too soft or too loud. In Setup > Level Calibration, zero all the lines. Set Test Mode to Manual. Scroll down one line to Test Level and adjust that line to yield 75dB SPL measured at ARC mic position #1. ARC uses the Test Level setting to establish the volume of its sweep tones.


7) If you are getting a full set of sweep tones from LF (typically 8 sweeps) and the failure happens after that, then perhaps you have instructed ARC to listen for a speaker you don't have hooked up or configured in Setup > Speaker Configuration -- e.g., your Center speaker. I.e., ARC is trying to play sweep tones through the next speaker according to what you told ARC you had (prior to starting the Measurement pass), but the processor is not actually set up up to use that speaker or that speaker does not exist. If you are using Triggers to control your power amps or speakers, make sure the amp/speaker is actually alive during the ARC pass. ARC selects the FM Source during its sweeps so your Triggers have to be ON for that Source for example if you are configuring them by Source.


NOTE: The problem is not likely to be in your serial cable or Keyspan stuff since ARC is able to configure the processor and start the first batch of test tone sweeps.

--Bob


----------



## politby

Hi Bob, thanks for that exhaustive reply.


I tried raising the test levels by 3 dB and when that didn't help I put the mic just a few inches from the left front speaker and connected it with a different USB cable. Same result - so it's not the level that is the problem.


I also doubt there are any problems with the USB ports, I have no problems with any other devices and they are all able to power much more power hungry devices than a mic. All 3 computers have Windows 7 Ultimate full installs and the mic input works fine on all 3.


I installed ARC from the download on all three systems and the serial files are present in the correct locations.


I have a 7.1 system so all speakers are configured and present with 2 rears.


Anthem suggests I try running ARC in Win XP but I think that sounds far fetched considering so many are using 7 with no issues.


I think the mic is faulty, that would also explain why one of my computers will not recognize it.


----------



## tranle

I have also noticed that your dialog box is not in English (Ja and Nej instead of Yes an No). You should check with Anthem support if the ARC software has been tested in locale that you are using.


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/18790229
> 
> 
> I have also noticed that your dialog box is not in English (Ja and Nej instead of Yes an No). You should check with Anthem support if the ARC software has been tested in locale that you are using.



Haha, that would have been a first. if that was the cause







I have the English version installed with the Swedish language pack added. Just for the heck of it I switched the display language back to U.S English but of course the problem remains.


BTW the other 2 machines I have tested with have no language pack.


I'll see if I can find an old hard drive somewhere to install XP on. But I'm 99.9% sure that is not going to change anything.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18790182
> 
> 
> 
> I think the mic is faulty, that would also explain why one of my computers will not recognize it.



If the mic was faulty then ALL of the computers would not recognize it. (Especially since they are all running the same OS version.)


This looks to me like a software configuration issue, or possibly antivirus software or some sleep/hibernate function that is getting in the way.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18790523
> 
> 
> I'll see if I can find an old hard drive somewhere to install XP on. But I'm 99.9% sure that is not going to change anything.



Since you have Win 7 Ultimate, you have XP mode available to you. You can run XP in a virtual machine. It comes with a copy, you don't have to install your spare XP license.


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18788995
> 
> 
> Do you have the latest Keyspan drivers for Windows 7 or even the latest for whichever OS is on your laptop? This made a diff for me when using Vista. I had the driver for Win7 before my first attempt and everything has worked fine.
> 
> John



From wich speakers ARC is not able to continue? It seams Anthem try to send sweept tone to one speaker but something is not working.

Maybe a wiring is not proper, unfortunatelly Anthem is not give you a error message for wiring. Can be a bad connection or a inversed wiring inside the speaker.


----------



## MikeCornika

Sorry jayray, the message is supposed for politby.

Thanks.


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/18792176
> 
> 
> If the mic was faulty then ALL of the computers would not recognize it. (Especially since they are all running the same OS version.)
> 
> 
> This looks to me like a software configuration issue, or possibly antivirus software or some sleep/hibernate function that is getting in the way.



I agree, there must be something with the USB ports on the HTPC that does not recognize the mic. The other 2 (laptops) which do find the mic and send the sweep tones are apparently okay on that point.


The weird thing is that the HTPC is very simply configured with pretty much no extra software installed other than MSSE and Blu-ray playback software. The laptops have lots of stuff since they are used for work.












> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18792937
> 
> 
> From wich speakers ARC is not able to continue? It seams Anthem try to send sweept tone to one speaker but something is not working.
> 
> Maybe a wiring is not proper, unfortunatelly Anthem is not give you a error message for wiring. Can be a bad connection or a inversed wiring inside the speaker.



In which order does ARC measure the speakers? It starts with left front - which one is next? Center?


Since the error does not appear until after the sweep tones have been sent to the left front speaker, your theory makes sense. I guess if the mic was kaput, ARC would complain after the first tone.


However if I send sweep tones from inside the AVM50's speaker setup menu, all the speakers produce sound so the AVM50 itself has no problem with any speaker.


So if the problem is that ARC is unable to continue to the next speaker after LF, it must be some communications issue.


I will try tonight and see what happens if I deselect all speakers except the fronts before starting the measurement.


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18789742
> 
> 
> ARC V2.4 is known to work on Windows 7.
> 
> 
> 2) Your Windows 7 installation (on all 3 computers) is deficient in some way. The most likely scenario is that you have done a minimal or partial install and the microphone audio capture framework in Windows that ARC uses is not installed -- i.e., you have declined to install Windows media components. This can easily happen if the computers were set up for business use. This should be easy to correct using your original Windows 7 install disc and going in to load optional components.



I discovered the microphone shows up as a normal audio input device in Windows so I tested it by doing a simple recording and it appears to work. So maybe the mic is not broken after all.


I tested it on the first PC, the one where ARC is "unable to find a valid microphone" - so Windows certainly sees it and can use it. However, I found the input level for the mic in the Windows audio control panel was set to zero - could that affect ARC or does ARC bypass the Windows mixer?


I did not have time to test with the mic input level raised because I had to go to work. But if ARC uses the Windows mixer maybe that could explain the whole thing.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18793378
> 
> 
> I agree, there must be something with the USB ports on the HTPC that does not recognize the mic. The other 2 (laptops) which do find the mic and send the sweep tones are apparently okay on that point.
> 
> 
> The weird thing is that the HTPC is very simply configured with pretty much no extra software installed other than MSSE and Blu-ray playback software. The laptops have lots of stuff since they are used for work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In which order does ARC measure the speakers? It starts with left front - which one is next? Center?
> 
> 
> Since the error does not appear until after the sweep tones have been sent to the left front speaker, your theory makes sense. I guess if the mic was kaput, ARC would complain after the first tone.
> 
> 
> However if I send sweep tones from inside the AVM50's speaker setup menu, all the speakers produce sound so the AVM50 itself has no problem with any speaker.
> 
> 
> So if the problem is that ARC is unable to continue to the next speaker after LF, it must be some communications issue.
> 
> 
> I will try tonight and see what happens if I deselect all speakers except the fronts before starting the measurement.



the test tone moves from the LF in a clockwise direction.

John


----------



## The Bogg

after reading the last few posts I realized I hadn't tried ARC since getting my new laptop with Win7 home premium. Of course now I discover that it won't find the microphone either. d'oh. I've tried the suggestions listed above. Mine doesn't show up as a microphone, it shows up as a HID device in the device manager. Any suggestions appreciated.


----------



## usxplong

I know it is not the propoer board for this question. I have ordered my Paradigm Sub 25 and would like to know if I can download the PBK software from paradigm's web and use my D2v's mic with sub 25 or the mic for sub 25 is also serial related?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18795188
> 
> 
> I know it is not the propoer board for this question. I have ordered my Paradigm Sub 25 and would like to know if I can download the PBK software from paradigm's web and use my D2v's mic with sub 25 or the mic for sub 25 is also serial related?
> 
> Thanks in advance.



I believe you need the PBK kits microphone. Otherwise Anthem owners would be exempt from purchasing the kit, a nice perk but that isn't the way it is.

John


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18795715
> 
> 
> I believe you need the PBK kits microphone. Otherwise Anthem owners would be exempt from purchasing the kit, a nice perk but that isn't the way it is.
> 
> John



Thanks Jayray.


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/18780785
> 
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> 
> I am interested in replacing my Yamaha RX-V1600 as a pre/pro for my audio rig only. I have it connected to a PS Audio DL III dac and computer for music server.
> 
> 
> I like processed sound (EQ) and would like room correction so that's what leads me to the Anthem (ARC) but I am wondering about the DAC and SQ between the D1 and D2. I know the video processor is much better in the D2 but I don't need that. Would the D1 DAC be better than my PS Audio so that I can remove that from the chain?
> 
> 
> My Speakers are Paradigm S8v2 and amps are Emotiva XPA-1's so the power and sound shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> 
> Thanks



The anthem will certainly be a huge improvement over the Yamaha, but it will not replace the DLIII. I have a D2 fed by a DLIII with Cullen Mods. The Anthem with ARC replaced my Musical Fidelity A5 integrated amp. The Musical Fidelity sounded really good but could not compare with the Anthem using ARC. Without using ARC the musical fidelity sounded better. And going digital direct into teh Anthem even with ARC didn't sound nearly as good as with teh DLIII feeding analog into the Anthem. There are others doing the same thing as I am and they also found that feeding the Anthem a good analog signal and going through the Anthems ADC's and DAC's sounds better than feeding digital directly.


I've had my D2 for about a month now and I'll be writing a more in depth review when I find some more time.


Mike


----------



## politby

Quote:

Originally Posted by *The Bogg* 
after reading the last few posts I realized I hadn't tried ARC since getting my new laptop with Win7 home premium. Of course now I discover that it won't find the microphone either. d'oh. I've tried the suggestions listed above. Mine doesn't show up as a microphone, it shows up as a HID device in the device manager. Any suggestions appreciated.
I received some instructions from Anthem (see attachment) on how to set up the mic in Windows. That solved the problem for me.


And the reason my first system didn't see the mike was, of course, that I was logged in via remote desktop - which does not have access to any of the sound devices...








 

Win 7 ARC Setup.pdf 485.87890625k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^^Gotta love Windows!










Thanks for posting this here. I'm sure it will come in handy for others.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

Thanks for posting that politby. Mine doesn't show up as a mic just a hid device, but I'll give it a shot and see what I can come up with.


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/18798589
> 
> 
> Thanks for posting that politby. Mine doesn't show up as a mic just a hid device, but I'll give it a shot and see what I can come up with.



It is possible that your computer does not have the full support of the chipset on the System Board enabled by a proper driver.


It may yield a beneficial result to disconnect all USB devices except keyboard and mouse (if applicable) go to your system board manufacturer's driver download page for your machine and install the latest Chipset driver, then reboot.


If your computer had just allowed Windows to detect the chipset, it does not always facilitate proper hardware enumeration.


Good Speed,

Mike


----------



## Janski

Hello All,


I have 4 input devices, all connected by HDMI and an HTPC via DVI-> HDMIadapter. I use HDMI1 out from the D2v to an Epson projector. This works well with some video settings no longer on auto, but set as they should be manually.


I have a second 24' monitor that I wish to have beside my 120" Stewart Firehawk G3 just for watching a second source via Zone2 of the D2v. I've seen that I cannot feed the second display via HDMI2 from the D2v as it is only a clone, but I have since attempted to feed my second display with component video. (I have diconnected HDMI2 out completely)


Problem is, I cannot get a picture on the 24" HP monitor. It will display 1080p or i via HDMI OK, but I cannot seem to get Zone2 out via Component to give a picture.


I do not have the output 1 settings copied and have looked through the manual for any guidance which did not yield a result. I've gone through the Anthem Menu from Zone2 and all settings look OK, but I must be missing something as I cannot get a picture via Zone2 and component. (I do not require sound)


Can anyone be kind enough to give me pointers as to what I should check?


Greatly appreciated.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/18798853
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> 
> I have 4 input devices, all connected by HDMI and an HTPC via DVI-> HDMIadapter. I use HDMI1 out from the D2v to an Epson projector. This works well with some video settings no longer on auto, but set as they should be manually.
> 
> 
> I have a second 24' monitor that I wish to have beside my 120" Stewart Firehawk G3 just for watching a second source via Zone2 of the D2v. I've seen that I cannot feed the second display via HDMI2 from the D2v as it is only a clone, but I have since attempted to feed my second display with component video. (I have diconnected HDMI2 out completely)
> 
> 
> Problem is, I cannot get a picture on the 24" HP monitor. It will display 1080p or i via HDMI OK, but I cannot seem to get Zone2 out via Component to give a picture.
> 
> 
> I do not have the output 1 settings copied and have looked through the manual for any guidance which did not yield a result. I've gone through the Anthem Menu from Zone2 and all settings look OK, but I must be missing something as I cannot get a picture via Zone2 and component. (I do not require sound)
> 
> 
> Can anyone be kind enough to give me pointers as to what I should check?
> 
> 
> Greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



The copy protection built into HDMI won't let an HDMI source be output as Component video.


So to use a Zone 2 display (e.g., Zone 2 Component video output) you must be using a Component video or S-video input.


Some Source devices will output on both HDMI and Component at the same time. Cable TV boxes will typically do this, but disc players will typically NOT do it if you set them to output 720p, 1080i or 1080p. The difference is that the cable companies have not yet enforced the restriction that HD video can only be output on HDMI. That's coming in a year or so, but not yet.


For a Source that will do this you can cable its input both ways and specify both the HDMI input and the Component input sockets in Setup > Source Setup. Send the HDMI input to the Scaler, just as you are doing now, as your normal input for the Main path display. The Component input will still be available to "pass through" (unprocessed) to your Zone 2 Component video output. I.e., the input will be sent directly to the output without going through the video processor -- much as if you had the Source directly connected (using Component cables) to your Zone 2 display.


In Setup > Video Output, set the Component 2 output to be Main Pass Through if you want to use the Main path's selected Source as your input for Zone 2 or set it to Zone 2 if you want to be able to select the Source for Zone 2 independently from whatever the Main path is watching.


If you are using an S-video input from your Source, you'll need to send that through the Scaler to get it converted to Component for output. You can do that by setting up an additional Source Setup definition, specifying the S-video input socket and sending that input through the scaler. Set Component 2 video output to use the Zone 2 Source selection, and select your new Source Setup for Zone 2 when you want to watch that one on the Zone 2 display. Your original Source Setup (using HDMI) would remain in place for use on the Main path for your Main display.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

walt here, with two questions:

1) in setting up the surrounds, there are two options;a)dipole, and b) direct radiating.

what are the differences in the processing(will i detect a difference?)

2) i added an old oppo unit (DVI to HDMI) to our box of goodies.(there is an old sony 5 disk changer, the newly added oppo (set up as hdmi 4) and the panny blu ray as hdmi hdmi one.

issue: when i opt for the panny, my system auto selects hdmi 4 ( the oppo), as opposed to hdmi 1 (the panny), which is to be the default. i can go to setup and manually select hdmi 1, but should not need to do so.

what have i done incorrectly?

thx

walt


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/18798821
> 
> 
> It is possible that your computer does not have the full support of the chipset on the System Board enabled by a proper driver.
> 
> 
> It may yield a beneficial result to disconnect all USB devices except keyboard and mouse (if applicable) go to your system board manufacturer's driver download page for your machine and install the latest Chipset driver, then reboot.
> 
> 
> If your computer had just allowed Windows to detect the chipset, it does not always facilitate proper hardware enumeration.
> 
> 
> Good Speed,
> 
> Mike



thanks for the tip. It is a laptop. I'll look into that when I get home.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/18800061
> 
> 
> walt here, with two questions:
> 
> 1) in setting up the surrounds, there are two options;a)dipole, and b) direct radiating.
> 
> what are the differences in the processing(will i detect a difference?)
> 
> 2) i added an old oppo unit (DVI to HDMI) to our box of goodies.(there is an old sony 5 disk changer, the newly added oppo (set up as hdmi 4) and the panny blu ray as hdmi hdmi one.
> 
> issue: when i opt for the panny, my system auto selects hdmi 4 ( the oppo), as opposed to hdmi 1 (the panny), which is to be the default. i can go to setup and manually select hdmi 1, but should not need to do so.
> 
> what have i done incorrectly?
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



1) The only difference is in how the speaker distances are applied. Since Dipole speakers work by bouncing the sound off the walls, there is no obviously correct distance adjustment for them. When you set the Side or Rear Surrounds to Dipole, the Anthem automatically uses a delay equivalent to the furthest away of any of your other speakers. The distance setting for the Dipole pair itself will switch to N/A.


2) Which two Source Setup IDs are you using for these two sources (e.g., DVD1 vs. AUX) and how are you selecting between them? If you are using the overlay Sources (e.g., DVD1 vs. DVD2), you may be confused about how to select between them. Double check the front panel display to see that the Source you think you are selecting is the one that's actually getting selected.

--Bob


----------



## politby

I have been having problems with stuttering HD playback via HDMI from my HTPC. Today I discovered that the problem went away when I bypassed my Anthem AVM50. See this thread .


In short, any originally progressive HD material played on my AVM50 (which is set to 1080p50 output) stutters. Originally interlaced material (such as a 1080i50 TV broadcast) does not.


And this is despite the HTPC always outputting 1080p50 over HDMI so the AVM50 never gets anything that is not 1080p.


Has anyone heard of an Anthem processor messing up the HDMI signal, causing video stutter?


Thanks


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18806909
> 
> 
> I have been having problems with stuttering HD playback via HDMI from my HTPC. Today I discovered that the problem went away when I bypassed my Anthem AVM50. See this thread .
> 
> 
> In short, any originally progressive HD material played on my AVM50 (which is set to 1080p50 output) stutters. Originally interlaced material (such as a 1080i50 TV broadcast) does not.
> 
> 
> And this is despite the HTPC always outputting 1080p50 over HDMI so the AVM50 never gets anything that is not 1080p.
> 
> 
> Has anyone heard of an Anthem processor messing up the HDMI signal, causing video stutter?
> 
> 
> Thanks



In the other thread you say that the 50v is not doing any processing but it is always processing. There is no passthru.


What frame rates are you feeding and outputting? Is it 1080p60 input and 1080p24 output?


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/18806998
> 
> 
> In the other thread you say that the 50v is not doing any processing but it is always processing. There is no passthru.
> 
> 
> What frame rates are you feeding and outputting? Is it 1080p60 input and 1080p24 output?



1080p50 input, 1080p50 output.


----------



## jb5200

Thanks for the input. From what I read the D1 as far as audio is the same as the D2 so I will look to see if I can save myself a few $$. I will keep my PS Audio and maybe upgrade that later if I see fit.


thanks again!


jb


----------



## Janski

Hi Bob,


Thanks alot for helping me. Followed your guidance and indeed efforts were met with success! I have the functionality with zone2 I was after so I can now watch Dish1 (ex.) football on my main 120" display while watching Dish2 (ex.) baseball on 24" secondary display.


Learned the following from this;


- I still need my component video cables!

- there is only one set of memory registers for video output and source configurations (Ie: a change to a source applies to all zones)

- HDMI will not deliver all functionality I desire due to its security restrictions (This I will need a solution for some day when the simultaneous component/HDMI outputs on cable/sat boxes is disabled)

- a purpose of the "Component" field in "Source Setup" is to allow pass-through of component video to other zones while one may feed the scaler (and Main display) from the HDMI inputs.

- after setting the configuration, I lost the sound, but it appears stable after one power cycling of the D2v


One solution to the future problem could be a hardware update to the D2v to allow HDMI outputs 1 and 2 to output separate video to separate zones. (Not sure if it is feasible) Another may be an HDMI splitter on each input device, but that would not be wise.


I will surely oppose any move by my providers to update my receivers to stop the simultaneous output of Component and HDMI.


Just in time to watch our beloved Hamilton Tiger Cats and Toronto Blue Jays. (And the odd Roy Halladay start in Philly...)


Thanks again and take care,

Mike



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18798893
> 
> 
> 
> The copy protection built into HDMI won't let an HDMI source be output as Component video.
> 
> 
> So to use a Zone 2 display (e.g., Zone 2 Component video output) you must be using a Component video or S-video input.
> 
> 
> Some Source devices will output on both HDMI and Component at the same time. Cable TV boxes will typically do this, but disc players will typically NOT do it if you set them to output 720p, 1080i or 1080p. The difference is that the cable companies have not yet enforced the restriction that HD video can only be output on HDMI. That's coming in a year or so, but not yet.
> 
> 
> For a Source that will do this you can cable its input both ways and specify both the HDMI input and the Component input sockets in Setup > Source Setup. Send the HDMI input to the Scaler, just as you are doing now, as your normal input for the Main path display. The Component input will still be available to "pass through" (unprocessed) to your Zone 2 Component video output. I.e., the input will be sent directly to the output without going through the video processor -- much as if you had the Source directly connected (using Component cables) to your Zone 2 display.
> 
> 
> In Setup > Video Output, set the Component 2 output to be Main Pass Through if you want to use the Main path's selected Source as your input for Zone 2 or set it to Zone 2 if you want to be able to select the Source for Zone 2 independently from whatever the Main path is watching.
> 
> 
> If you are using an S-video input from your Source, you'll need to send that through the Scaler to get it converted to Component for output. You can do that by setting up an additional Source Setup definition, specifying the S-video input socket and sending that input through the scaler. Set Component 2 video output to use the Zone 2 Source selection, and select your new Source Setup for Zone 2 when you want to watch that one on the Zone 2 display. Your original Source Setup (using HDMI) would remain in place for use on the Main path for your Main display.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/18807773
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks alot for helping me. Followed your guidance and indeed efforts were met with success! I have the functionality with zone2 I was after so I can now watch Dish1 (ex.) football on my main 120" display while watching Dish2 (ex.) baseball on 24" secondary display.
> 
> 
> Learned the following from this;
> 
> 
> - I still need my component video cables!
> 
> - there is only one set of memory registers for video output and source configurations (Ie: a change to a source applies to all zones)
> 
> - HDMI will not deliver all functionality I desire due to its security restrictions (This I will need a solution for some day when the simultaneous component/HDMI outputs on cable/sat boxes is disabled)
> 
> - a purpose of the "Component" field in "Source Setup" is to allow pass-through of component video to other zones while one may feed the scaler (and Main display) from the HDMI inputs.
> 
> - after setting the configuration, I lost the sound, but it appears stable after one power cycling of the D2v
> 
> 
> One solution to the future problem could be a hardware update to the D2v to allow HDMI outputs 1 and 2 to output separate video to separate zones. (Not sure if it is feasible) Another may be an HDMI splitter on each input device, but that would not be wise.
> 
> I will surely oppose any move by my providers to update my receivers to stop the simultaneous output of Component and HDMI.
> 
> 
> Just in time to watch our beloved Hamilton Tiger Cats and Toronto Blue Jays. (And the odd Roy Halladay start in Philly...)
> 
> 
> Thanks again and take care,
> 
> Mike



Mike....Have you thought of using the HDFury from http://www.curtpalme.com/HDFury3.shtm ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/18807324
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. From what I read the D1 as far as audio is the same as the D2 so I will look to see if I can save myself a few $$. I will keep my PS Audio and maybe upgrade that later if I see fit.
> 
> 
> thanks again!
> 
> 
> jb



The audio solutions in the D1 and D2 are indeed identical, except of course that HDMI audio input is not available on the D1.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18806909
> 
> 
> I have been having problems with stuttering HD playback via HDMI from my HTPC. Today I discovered that the problem went away when I bypassed my Anthem AVM50. See this thread .
> 
> 
> In short, any originally progressive HD material played on my AVM50 (which is set to 1080p50 output) stutters. Originally interlaced material (such as a 1080i50 TV broadcast) does not.
> 
> 
> And this is despite the HTPC always outputting 1080p50 over HDMI so the AVM50 never gets anything that is not 1080p.
> 
> 
> Has anyone heard of an Anthem processor messing up the HDMI signal, causing video stutter?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Try removing the splitter so that the AVM50 is connected directly to your display. The splitter may be causing handshake problems when fed from an intermediate (i.e., not a Source) device.


Also check that Frame Lock is OFF (check Video Source Adjust > Output while viewing the HTPC Source).

--Bob


----------



## politby

The splitter is not the problem, the splitter was in the chain when I bypassed the AVM and there was no stutter. But I will try anyway.


Will check the frame lock later, thanks


----------



## jayray

This is for D2V and AVM 50v


CHANGE LIST


v2.09b beta:


1. Further muting fixes.


2. Was put together using updated compiler and archive tools.


John


----------



## Donloz

 http://www.canadahifi.com/comments.php?id_entry=978 


Here is an article on the new receivers.


----------



## Donloz

The receivers are on Anthems web page..That's quick


----------



## abc999

I guess "Made in North America" is not true anymore with these receivers on their line.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18812885
> 
> 
> I guess "Made in North America" is not true anymore with these receivers on their line.



It wasn't true anyway, everything else they make( Paradigm and Anthem) is made in Canada







not North America unless Canada, U.S. and Mexico have formed a new alliance we haven't heard of yet.









John


----------



## jayray

Installed 2.09b. It took close to 40 min. because one stage of the update took 90% of the time in a repeat cycle of over 30 times. This happened once before with an earlier version of firmware but hasn't happened in quite a few updates to my knowledge. Will test it tomorrow.

John


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18813257
> 
> 
> It wasn't true anyway, everything else they make( Paradigm and Anthem) is made in Canada
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not North America unless Canada, U.S. and Mexico have formed a new alliance we haven't heard of yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Mmmm, Canada IS part of the North American Continent last time I checked. North America could mean anything from Panama to Greenland. Canada, USA and Mexico are the major players but it could mean any of the dozens of other small countries that make up North America.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/18813305
> 
> 
> Mmmm, Canada IS part of the North American Continent last time I checked. North America could mean anything from Panama to Greenland. Canada, USA and Mexico are the major players but it could mean any of the dozens of other small countries that make up North America.



I'm well aware of what constitutes NA, what I'm not sure of is why a product that is made solely in Canada comes with Made in NA. Products made in the US don't have this and I wouldn't expect them to. That was my point.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well it's not made very FAR into Canada. Just across the border really.










JAYRAY, thanks for the alert on "test" V2.09b availability. I'm moving my setup, so it will be a few days before I can try it and report on it.


So far I don't see any press release or beauty shot photos of the new receivers at Caster Communications (Anthem's PR firm).


I see what looks like a press release re-posting at Ecoustics.com:

http://news.ecoustics.com/bbs/messag...81/638724.html 


And here's a rephrasing of that at Twice:

http://www.twice.com/article/453973-...d_HD_Radio.php 


And at Cepro:

http://www.cepro.com/article/anthem_...dy_mrx_series/ 


I think the preliminary data sheets PDF file now on the Anthem site offers the best info on these 4 new receivers:

http://www.anthemav.com/new-product-...ary-data-sheet 


It will be interesting to learn how much the scaling down of ARC impacts its performance in these receivers. Given the amount of ARC discussion in this thread, I would expect some receiver owners to come here seeking advice, but I don't really see this becoming the main thread for discussion on the receivers since they really are different beasties.


ETA: The press release is in the "blog" section at Caster, along with a large, high resolution beauty shot of the front of the receiver:

http://www.castercomm.com/blog/?p=2819 
http://www.castercomm.com/blog/wp-co...RX_700_web.jpg 


And here's a lower resolution photo of the back of the MRX 700:

http://www.hemagazine.com/files/Anth...0backpanel.jpg 


--Bob


----------



## Shrike645

Kal says above that they didn't scale down ARC.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We'll see. It was my understanding the receivers didn't have the DSP power to do the same degree of ARC processing as the prepros, but perhaps that has changed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The data sheet says the MRX 900 is available "Summer 2011". Pre-announce products much?









--Bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18814687
> 
> 
> We'll see. It was my understanding the receivers didn't have the DSP power to do the same degree of ARC processing as the prepros, but perhaps that has changed.
> 
> --Bob



I seem to remember seeing yesterday that they did dolby volume so perhaps they do have the power. Time will tell.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/18814667
> 
> 
> Kal says above that they didn't scale down ARC.



What is scaled down are the number of filters available for fixing the little wiggles you see on your graphs. Algorithms remain the same. The DSP ability does not match the D2v and AVM 50v models. My source is from Anthem, I'm not sure where Kal got his info.

John


----------



## obie_fl

Kal was quoting a Mark Aling not sure who that is.


ETA: Mark Aling

Marketing Manager at Paradigm Electronics Inc.

Of course you can never beleive those marketing people.


----------



## obie_fl

Maybe it is just me as I have a vested interest in Pre/Pros but does anyone else think it is a bit risky on Anthem's part to introduce advanced features in these receivers before getting them in their bread and butter flagship Pre/Pros? Reading the tea leaves I suspect the new Pre/Pros will not show up until next year along side the MRX 900. I know I'll be watching the MRX 700 very closely at $2K as a possible D2 replacement, especially if ARC is truly the same.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18814852
> 
> 
> Maybe it is just me as I have a vested interest in Pre/Pros but does anyone else think it is a bit risky on Anthem's part to introduce advanced features in these receivers before getting them in their bread and butter flagship Pre/Pros? Reading the tea leaves I suspect the new Pre/Pros will not show up until next year along side the MRX 900. I know I'll be watching the MRX 700 very closely at $2K as a possible D2 replacement, especially if ARC is truly the same.



ARC will not be the same. Nick verified this for me. It will be as I stated above, same algorithms, fewer filters due to less DSP processing. It will still sound great he said so great for the money









John


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe it is just me as I have a vested interest in Pre/Pros but does anyone else think it is a bit risky on Anthem's part to introduce advanced features in these receivers before getting them in their bread and butter flagship Pre/Pros? Reading the tea leaves I suspect the new Pre/Pros will not show up until next year along side the MRX 900. I know I'll be watching the MRX 700 very closely at $2K as a possible D2 replacement, especially if ARC is truly the same.



Don't forget the reason you got the D2 in the first place was the sound quality, at least that is why I bought a D1. When ARC came along it was an added bonus.


I bet the newer receivers do not have that basic quality of sound.


If I was just after features then I would probably look at the Integra 80.1(very nice for the price) but I am not willing to give up on the wonderful sound of the Statements.


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18808714
> 
> 
> Mike....Have you thought of using the HDFury from http://www.curtpalme.com/HDFury3.shtm ?



Thanks for that dmusmoke. Good to see the Curt Palme name around. He was the Bob Pariseau of CRT projectors... I will keep it in mind.


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18809752
> 
> 
> Try removing the splitter so that the AVM50 is connected directly to your display. The splitter may be causing handshake problems when fed from an intermediate (i.e., not a Source) device.
> 
> 
> Also check that Frame Lock is OFF (check Video Source Adjust > Output while viewing the HTPC Source).
> 
> --Bob



Okay, so I have just done some more testing. I connected the HTPC directly to the display, bypassing the splitter (tested both plasma display and projector). *Absolutely no stutter*.


Then reconnected the splitter but with the HTPC still directly connected. *Absolutely no stutter*


Then tested with the AVM50 in the loop (HTPC --> Anthem --> Display) both with and without the splitter. Same result in both cases - *the stutter is there*.


Then, for good measure, I repeated the exact same tests but with a *different HTPC* that I brought in from my boat; this one is built with completely different hardware including nVidia rather than ATI graphics. And the results were exactly the same.


And BTW this was tested at 24p, 50p, and 60p, with no difference. Frame lock is OFF.


There is only one conclusion to draw from this - the Anthem is causing the stutter. Somehow it seems incapable of handling progressive output from a HTPC.


The strangest of all is that I get stutter ONLY on material that is originally progressive. Material that is interlaced (such as a concert Blu-ray at 1080i) and then deinterlaced in the HTPC before reaching the Anthem does not stutter. I find that incredible.


Sounds really far fetched but there you have it.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18815663
> 
> 
> ARC will not be the same. Nick verified this for me. It will be as I stated above, same algorithms, fewer filters due to les DSP processing. It will still sound great he said so great for the money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Someone needs to tell marketing that.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18816265
> 
> 
> Someone needs to tell marketing that.



Perhaps someone heard it wrong because misinformation from Anthem is not something I have experienced after many conversations with diff people there. I'm trying to be positive









John


----------



## jayray

I've watched and tested several movies on BD and HD DVD and so far no glitches. On HD DVD, there is now a slight audio delay when starting from pause or FF. This is diff from previous beta firmware but it does help to prevent crackling which I was getting from my XA2 when starting up from pause, FF or chapter skip.


John


----------



## ironcorn

Jayray,


I also have the XA2 (and several A35) and the D2v, I get the same static/crackle when bitstreaming only. I'm using offical 2.08. Are you bitstreaming as well? And if so does 2.09B reduces the static/crackle on FF/pause etc?


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ironcorn* /forum/post/18818468
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> 
> I also have the XA2 (and several A35) and the D2v, I get the same static/crackle when bitstreaming only. I'm using offical 2.08. Are you bitstreaming as well? And if so does 2.09B reduces the static/crackle on FF/pause etc?
> 
> 
> Thanks



both 2.08n and 2.09b have reduced it significantly.

John


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18817201
> 
> 
> Perhaps someone heard it wrong because misinformation from Anthem is not something I have experienced after many conversations with diff people there. I'm trying to be positive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I think John is accurate, there is no way the receivers will be at the level the pre/pros are.


John, thanks to your comments to my earlier questions I ordered a D2v instead of the AVM 50v. I'll post when I get it and it is set up.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18819784
> 
> 
> I think John is accurate, there is no way the receivers will be at the level the pre/pros are.
> 
> 
> John, thanks to your comments to my earlier questions I ordered a D2v instead of the AVM 50v. I'll post when I get it and it is set up.



You will love it. Costly but haven't heard anything better









John


----------



## bluemark81

I'm still using 2.08g and I notice that the Anthem website still has 2.08 listed as the official version. Can someone tell me if the version on the website now has Dolby Volume or not? I've been away for the last few months so I'm trying to catch up on where things are. I thought we would be into 2.09 or higher by now. Mine still seems to be working great without glitches of any kind with the exception of it having Dolby Volume.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/18823939
> 
> 
> I'm still using 2.08g and I notice that the Anthem website still has 2.08 listed as the official version. Can someone tell me if the version on the website now has Dolby Volume or not? I've been away for the last few months so I'm trying to catch up on where things are. I thought we would be into 2.09 or higher by now. Mine still seems to be working great without glitches of any kind with the exception of it having Dolby Volume.



2.09b is on their tech password protected site. I posted the changes for that version. I don't use DV but I'm pretty sure it is part of 2.08g

John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18824211
> 
> 
> 2.09b is on their tech password protected site. I posted the changes for that version. I don't use DV but I'm pretty sure it is part of 2.08g
> 
> John



John: It may be 2.08f that I'm using.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/18826987
> 
> 
> John: It may be 2.08f that I'm using.



Go into source setup, it's there. I think any version since and including 2.08 has DV.

John


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18827139
> 
> 
> Go into source setup, it's there. I think any version since and including 2.08 has DV.
> 
> John



The official 2.08 didn't have Dolby Volume. They started putting it in the betas that came after that. It may be what's holding up any new official release.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Dolby Volume first appeared in "test" firmware V2.08d.


--------------------------


I installed "test" firmware V2.09b last night. The install was *SLOW*! It took an hour and 20 minutes. Part of that is that I've switched to a Windows XP environment running under Boot Camp 3.1 on my Mac, and it looks like this new Boot Camp may be reducing throughput through the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter. I've no idea why. The other reason for the slowness is what JAYRAY already reported with the video board programming appearing to cycle many times -- possibly programming a small portion of the video micro-code each time. So prepare to be patient.


Despite the slow install, preliminary testing shows no problems with V2.09b.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18828249
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume first appeared in "test" firmware V2.08d.
> 
> 
> --------------------------
> 
> 
> I installed "test" firmware V2.09b last night. The install was *SLOW*! It took an hour and 20 minutes. Part of that is that I've switched to a Windows XP environment running under Boot Camp 3.1 on my Mac, and it looks like this new Boot Camp may be reducing throughput through the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter. I've no idea why. The other reason for the slowness is what JAYRAY already reported with the video board programming appearing to cycle many times -- possibly programming a small portion of the video micro-code each time. So prepare to be patient.
> 
> 
> Despite the slow install, preliminary testing shows no problems with V2.09b.
> 
> --Bob



I guess the "d" stood for dolby volume









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

"Test" V2.09b has not cured my longstanding Buzz/Snap problem with HDMI Bitstream from my older Pioneer Elite DV-59avi SD-DVD player (an HDMI V1.0 device). The noise happens when an audio stream starts -- e.g., Play after Pause -- and has been there since the first D2v firmware (no problem with the original D2).


So far I've spotted no changes/fixes/new bugs in this firmware on any front -- either good or bad.

--Bob


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18806909
> 
> 
> I have been having problems with stuttering HD playback via HDMI from my HTPC. Today I discovered that the problem went away when I bypassed my Anthem AVM50. See this thread .
> 
> 
> In short, any originally progressive HD material played on my AVM50 (which is set to 1080p50 output) stutters. Originally interlaced material (such as a 1080i50 TV broadcast) does not.
> 
> 
> And this is despite the HTPC always outputting 1080p50 over HDMI so the AVM50 never gets anything that is not 1080p.
> 
> 
> Has anyone heard of an Anthem processor messing up the HDMI signal, causing video stutter?
> 
> 
> Thanks




I am stumped.


So I went out and got an open-box Sony BDP-S363 Blu-ray player and did some tests. Just as I expected, the same stutter is present, if anything it's even more pronounced than with the HTPC as a source. I set both the BD player and the Anthem pre/pro to 24Hz.


And there is no stutter if I connect the player directly to either of my displays (Samsung plasma/Panasonic projector).


I am starting to to think maybe I am oversensitive to stutter but then why would I not notice it when playing a 1080i Blu-ray? And why would I see it only when the AVM50 is in the signal chain?


Theoretically, could this be caused by my displays?


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/18795164
> 
> 
> after reading the last few posts I realized I hadn't tried ARC since getting my new laptop with Win7 home premium. Of course now I discover that it won't find the microphone either. d'oh. I've tried the suggestions listed above. Mine doesn't show up as a microphone, it shows up as a HID device in the device manager. Any suggestions appreciated.



Just a f/u on this. It wasn't necessary to upgrade the "inf" files for the Intel chipset in my laptop. All I did was disable the built-in microphone and the next time I plugged in the ARC mic it was correctly identified as an ARC mike instead of just a generic hid device. I tested and it worked fine. Thanks for the help guys and hope this may help someone else experiencing this issue with Win7.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just redid the ARC V2.4 setup for my system running the "test" V2.09b firmware. No problems. This was for my system's new location more than anything else.


But boy, I still get a thrill every time I get a chance to hear the before and after of an ARC setup in a new room!









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18828856
> 
> 
> I am stumped.
> 
> 
> So I went out and got an open-box Sony BDP-S363 Blu-ray player and did some tests. Just as I expected, the same stutter is present, if anything it's even more pronounced than with the HTPC as a source. I set both the BD player and the Anthem pre/pro to 24Hz.
> 
> 
> And there is no stutter if I connect the player directly to either of my displays (Samsung plasma/Panasonic projector).
> 
> 
> I am starting to to think maybe I am oversensitive to stutter but then why would I not notice it when playing a 1080i Blu-ray? And why would I see it only when the AVM50 is in the signal chain?
> 
> 
> Theoretically, could this be caused by my displays?



Just to make sure; you aren't trying to convert 1080p/50 or 1080p/60 input to 1080p/24 output are you? That's always going to be prone to stutters.


If you have a repeatable case of 1080p/50 input producing stutters when output by the Anthem as 1080p/50 to a 1080p/50 capable display, then you should get in touch with Anthem tech support. Let them know that the stutters go away when you connect the source directly to the display without making any other changes.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18829701
> 
> 
> Just redid the ARC V2.4 setup for my system running the "test" V2.09b firmware. No problems. This was for my system's new location more than anything else.
> 
> 
> But boy, I still get a thrill every time I get a chance to hear the before and after of an ARC setup in a new room!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

that's probably the best testimonial for ARC that I could read. Compared to the reviews, I know you couldn't be swayed by anything other than the REAL deal. I'll tell Nick to put on the website reviews for Anthem Statement.









John


----------



## Paladin80N

I have a D2v and like others have been waiting for the Dolby Volume feature. How does one get a copy of the beta 2.09b update? Any idea when the official release will occur?


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18829712
> 
> 
> Just to make sure; you aren't trying to convert 1080p/50 or 1080p/60 input to 1080p/24 output are you? That's always going to be prone to stutters.
> 
> 
> If you have a repeatable case of 1080p/50 input producing stutters when output by the Anthem as 1080p/50 to a 1080p/50 capable display, then you should get in touch with Anthem tech support. Let them know that the stutters go away when you connect the source directly to the display without making any other changes.
> 
> --Bob



I've had an email conversation going on with Anthem tech support for about a week. They keep suggesting this is a frame rate problem. I have the Anthem's output configuration set to the same as the HTPC is outputting and I have tried 24p, 50p, and 60p, all with the same result.


The last suggestion they made was to try a standalone Blu-ray player and they said that would guarantee the stutter to go away. I have emailed back that it did not but haven't received any response.


Bob, here's the link to a camcorder clip showing playback of the "Cars" Blu-ray. It's a direct real time shot of my plasma display. Please take a look at it, you should see the frame skipping clearly in the panning scene of the memorabilia shelf and the truck moving. Does it look like a frame rate issue to you?


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18828856
> 
> 
> I am stumped.
> 
> 
> So I went out and got an open-box Sony BDP-S363 Blu-ray player and did some tests. Just as I expected, the same stutter is present, if anything it's even more pronounced than with the HTPC as a source. I set both the BD player and the Anthem pre/pro to 24Hz.
> 
> 
> And there is no stutter if I connect the player directly to either of my displays (Samsung plasma/Panasonic projector).
> 
> 
> I am starting to to think maybe I am oversensitive to stutter but then why would I not notice it when playing a 1080i Blu-ray? And why would I see it only when the AVM50 is in the signal chain?
> 
> 
> Theoretically, could this be caused by my displays?




Have you tried different HDMI cables? not all hdmi cables are equal with these high end machines.


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried different HDMI cables? not all hdmi cables are equal with these high end machines.



I have high quality Supra hdmi cables, they should be good enough for this. I refuse to believe a cable could be causing this problem.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paladin80N* /forum/post/18830937
> 
> 
> I have a D2v and like others have been waiting for the Dolby Volume feature. How does one get a copy of the beta 2.09b update? Any idea when the official release will occur?



contact Anthem tech for a password to the files.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18828856
> 
> 
> I am stumped.
> 
> 
> So I went out and got an open-box Sony BDP-S363 Blu-ray player and did some tests. Just as I expected, the same stutter is present, if anything it's even more pronounced than with the HTPC as a source. I set both the BD player and the Anthem pre/pro to 24Hz.
> 
> 
> And there is no stutter if I connect the player directly to either of my displays (Samsung plasma/Panasonic projector).
> 
> 
> I am starting to to think maybe I am oversensitive to stutter but then why would I not notice it when playing a 1080i Blu-ray? And why would I see it only when the AVM50 is in the signal chain?
> 
> 
> Theoretically, could this be caused by my displays?




" I set both the BD player and the Anthem pre/pro to 24Hz "


Do I recall somewhere where BoB P and others confirmed the D2 and AVM50 cannot do 24hz ? Only the D2v and AVM50v can do 24hz.


Change the frame rate on your source and then the AVM 50 to frame Lock (OFF) see if the stutter disappears.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18831060
> 
> 
> I've had an email conversation going on with Anthem tech support for about a week. They keep suggesting this is a frame rate problem. I have the Anthem's output configuration set to the same as the HTPC is outputting and I have tried 24p, 50p, and 60p, all with the same result.
> 
> 
> The last suggestion they made was to try a standalone Blu-ray player and they said that would guarantee the stutter to go away. I have emailed back that it did not but haven't received any response.
> 
> 
> Bob, here's the link to a camcorder clip showing playback of the "Cars" Blu-ray. It's a direct real time shot of my plasma display. Please take a look at it, you should see the frame skipping clearly in the panning scene of the memorabilia shelf and the truck moving. Does it look like a frame rate issue to you?



Yes, it looks like a frame rate issue to me. The trick here is to figure out why you are getting it with 1080p/50 input but not with 1080i/50 input.


[And you are correct, this would not be a cable issue.]


It looks to me like one of the three devices (source, Anthem or display) is trying to do inverse-telecine -- frame rate conversion -- inappropriately. For example you will get this if you try to convert /60 content to /24.


Evidently the settings you are making are not doing what you think they are doing in one of the 3 devices.


You can confirm what the Anthem is receiving by pressing the Select button a couple times. You can confirm what the Anthem is sending out by bringing up the Video Source Adjust menu (hold the 7 key) and looking at the Info panel. With any luck there are status displays on your player and screen that will confirm what they think is happening -- not your settings, mind you, but what the device says it is doing.


I don't have a 1080p/50 setup (nor an AVM50) so I can't try what you are doing, but the usual culprit with such problems is either Frame Lock turned on when it should not be or trying to force frame rate conversion in a way that can not work -- such as forcing true /60 video input to /24 output (there's no good way to figure out which frames to discard).


The problem could still be in your player or display. Some displays will only do /24 when fed a certain data format (e.g., YCbCr vs. RGB), so you could have a bogus setting in the display which only takes effect when connected to the Anthem since the Anthem is sending it a different data format from the player for example.


There is probably something simple going wrong here, but without hands on to the devices it is tough to walk you through diagnosing this. Start with the status displays in all 3 devices (using 1080p/50 exclusively). Look for anything that does not jibe with the settings you thought you were using. Don't just assume each device is doing what you told it to do. Connect the HTPC directly to the display (again at 1080p/50) -- no stuttering right? Look for any DIFFERENCE in the status displays in the HTPC and display compared to when the Anthem is connected. Don't just look at resolution and frame rate. Also check data format.


NOTE: Be sure to use the SAME player output and the SAME display input sockets that you use when doing the tests with the Anthem connected.


Save your Anthem settings and then Reload Factory Defaults. Now make just the bare number of manual Settings changes needed to get 1080p/50 from the HTPC through the Anthem to the display. Do NOT turn on Frame Lock. Do NOT play with other frame rates yet. Does it still stutter? If not, then your original settings might be corrupted.


It is also possible (but not all that likely) that your firmware is corrupted. Try a re-install of the AVM 50 firmware.


It is even less likely, but still possible, that there is a hardware fault. Try a different HDMI input in the Anthem. The AVM50 uses separate chips for HDMI 1,2 vs HDMI 3,4. Switch your HTPC cable to use the other chip. (If you actually have an AVM 50v, switch between HDMI 1-4 and HDMI 5-8.)


The thing to keep in mind here is that these Anthem units have been in use in Europe (/50 video) for some time. If this was a general problem we'd have tons of complaints posted here and we don't. So there is something specific going wrong in your setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/18831784
> 
> 
> " I set both the BD player and the Anthem pre/pro to 24Hz "
> 
> 
> Do I recall somewhere where BoB P and others confirmed the D2 and AVM50 cannot do 24hz ? Only the D2v and AVM50v can do 24hz.
> 
> 
> Change the frame rate on your source and then the AVM 50 to frame Lock (OFF) see if the stutter disappears.



The AVM 50 can not do inverse telecine -- e.g., taking a 480i/60 or 1080i/60 input which was originally recorded at film rates (24fps) and then raised to /60 for TV broadcast or for inclusion on standard DVDs, and extracting the original /24 stream out of that.


The same would hold true if you tried to get it to extract a /24 stream from a /50 input.


The AVM 50 works just fine for 1080p/24 output if the input is 1080p/24 from, say, a Blu-Ray player.

--Bob


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, it looks like a frame rate issue to me. The trick here is to figure out why you are getting it with 1080p/50 input but not with 1080i/50 input.
> 
> 
> [And you are correct, this would not be a cable issue.]
> 
> 
> It looks to me like one of the three devices (source, Anthem or display) is trying to do inverse-telecine -- frame rate conversion -- inappropriately. For example you will get this if you try to convert /60 content to /24.
> 
> 
> Evidently the settings you are making are not doing what you think they are doing in one of the 3 devices.
> 
> 
> You can confirm what the Anthem is receiving by pressing the Select button a couple times. You can confirm what the Anthem is sending out by bringing up the Video Source Adjust menu (hold the 7 key) and looking at the Info panel. With any luck there are status displays on your player and screen that will confirm what they think is happening -- not your settings, mind you, but what the device says it is doing.
> 
> 
> I don't have a 1080p/50 setup (nor an AVM50) so I can't try what you are doing, but the usual culprit with such problems is either Frame Lock turned on when it should not be or trying to force frame rate conversion in a way that can not work -- such as forcing true /60 video input to /24 output (there's no good way to figure out which frames to discard).
> 
> 
> The problem could still be in your player or display. Some displays will only do /24 when fed a certain data format (e.g., YCbCr vs. RGB), so you could have a bogus setting in the display which only takes effect when connected to the Anthem since the Anthem is sending it a different data format from the player for example.
> 
> 
> There is probably something simple going wrong here, but without hands on to the devices it is tough to walk you through diagnosing this. Start with the status displays in all 3 devices (using 1080p/50 exclusively). Look for anything that does not jibe with the settings you thought you were using. Don't just assume each device is doing what you told it to do. Connect the HTPC directly to the display (again at 1080p/50) -- no stuttering right? Look for any DIFFERENCE in the status displays in the HTPC and display compared to when the Anthem is connected. Don't just look at resolution and frame rate. Also check data format.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Be sure to use the SAME player output and the SAME display input sockets that you use when doing the tests with the Anthem connected.
> 
> 
> Save your Anthem settings and then Reload Factory Defaults. Now make just the bare number of manual Settings changes needed to get 1080p/50 from the HTPC through the Anthem to the display. Do NOT turn on Frame Lock. Do NOT play with other frame rates yet. Does it still stutter? If not, then your original settings might be corrupted.
> 
> 
> It is also possible (but not all that likely) that your firmware is corrupted. Try a re-install of the AVM 50 firmware.
> 
> 
> It is even less likely, but still possible, that there is a hardware fault. Try a different HDMI input in the Anthem. The AVM50 uses separate chips for HDMI 1,2 vs HDMI 3,4. Switch your HTPC cable to use the other chip. (If you actually have an AVM 50v, switch between HDMI 1-4 and HDMI 5-8.)
> 
> 
> The thing to keep in mind here is that these Anthem units have been in use in Europe (/50 video) for some time. If this was a general problem we'd have tons of complaints posted here and we don't. So there is something specific going wrong in your setup.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob.


Things tend to get confused after a lot of posts so let me backtrack and try to explain the problem in a concise way.








The source (HTPC) is set to output 1080p50 since that produces the best results with live and recorded TV which is 90% of what this household watches. I do NOT want to use 24p or 60p because it ruins the FAF/WAF with Windows Media Center and TV. This means that any material is deinterlaced and/or upscaled by the HTPC before it is sent to the AVM50. So the AVM50 never receives anything other than 1080p50 and it also indicates that is what it is receiving, in all cases. The AVM50 is set to output the same, 1080p50.

Now, the stutter appears when I play back originally progressive HD material on the HTPC and send it to the AVM50 as 1080p50 - i.e. a Blu-ray or HD DVD disc or an MKV file with 720p or 1080p video. No matter what the original frame rate is.

There is NO stutter when I play back interlaced material (1080i50 recorded or live TV or 1080i24 concert Blu-ray disc) which is deinterlaced by the HTPC and sent to the AVM50 as 1080p50.

It was exactly the same when I tried with a standalone Blu-ray player yesterday. So the issue is not with the HTPC only.

My only other source, a Dreambox HD STB, outputs everything as 1080i and the Anthem has no problems there - perfectly smooth playback.

There is NO stutter in any of the 2 cases when the HTPC is connected directly to the display, bypassing the AVM50.

Moving the HTPC from HDMI1 to HDMI4 on the AVM50 made no difference.

Reinstalling the AVM50 firmware didn't help. I am still running 1.33, maybe the 1.47 beta firmware is worth a try - can I roll back to 1.33 if it messes things up?


When testing, all devices and also the player software (Arcsoft TMT) shows the correct resolution and frame rate. Not sure how to check the data format, though. At any rate, the Anthem says it is receiving (and outputting) 1080p50, so does the TV, and my projector.


Not sure what to do next. Give up?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18832125
> 
> 
> . . .
> 
> Now, the stutter appears when I play back originally progressive HD material on the HTPC and send it to the AVM50 as 1080p50 - i.e. a Blu-ray or HD DVD disc or an MKV file with 720p or 1080p video. No matter what the original frame rate is.
> 
> . . .



The content on a Blu-ray for movies will be 23.976fps for material originally prepped for NTSC video markets and 24.000fps for material originally prepped for PAL video markets (i.e., the /50 world). That is, there's no /50 or /60 on Blu-Ray discs for movies. They are on disc as 1080p/23.976 or 1080p/24.000 depending on market. The /50 or /60 output of the player is generated by the player.


So if you have your player sending out 1080p/50 the disc is being frame rate converted in the player. Now normally this is done by just playing the movie slightly faster (25fps) and then frame doubling to get 50 frames per second.


(Converting to 1080p/60 involves splitting each frame into interlaced half frames (fields) and then repeating some of those fields more often than others to generate the needed extra frames by using a field from one frame with a field from an adjacent frame.)


Meanwhile, live video content on Blu-ray will be on disc as 1080i/50 or 1080i/60 (depending on market). These are de-interlaced (and then frame doubled) to /50 or /60 in the player for output, but there is no frame rate conversion beyond the simple act of frame doubling. [De-interlacing 1080i/50 or 1080i/60 results in 1080p/25 or /30 which is then frame doubled to /50 or /60 for output.]


You can get the type of stuttering you are seeing if something tries to take that 1080p/50 input and return it back to 1080p/24. That could be happening in the AVM 50 or in your display. Evidently, something has decided the original content was 23.976 or 24.000 and is trying to get back to that. Or it has an incorrect setting that is forcing that.


The easiest way to check what is going on in the AVM 50 is to look at the status displays. If Video Source Adjust > Info says Frame Lock is Active for output or that the output signal type is /24 then it is happening in the Anthem.


But it could also be happening in the display if the input socket you are using when connecting the Anthem is set to force a film frame rate for the display refresh -- e.g., 48fps or 96fps. If you are using a different socket when connecting the player directly to the display you might not see this mistake if the settings are remembered separately per socket.

--Bob


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> The easiest way to check what is going on in the AVM 50 is to look at the status displays. If Video Source Adjust > Info says Frame Lock is Active for output or that the output signal type is /24 then it is happening in the Anthem.



It is not:











Since the same thing happened with the standalone BR player it must be either the AVM or my displays (both of them!) and none of them has any setting that would make them try to change back to 24p.


I have already ruled out the HDMI splitter I am using since the problem is there when it is unplugged.



> Quote:
> But it could also be happening in the display if the input socket you are using when connecting the Anthem is set to force a film frame rate for the display refresh -- e.g., 48fps or 96fps. If you are using a different socket when connecting the player directly to the display you might not see this mistake if the settings are remembered separately per socket.



I was using the same input socket. Both displays (Samsung plasma, Panasonic projector) are reporting the same resolution, 1080p50.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Try the alternate data formats for output from the AVM 50: YCbCr 4:2:2, YCbCr 4:4:4 and Studio RGB. Try having your player send YCbCr 4:4:4 to the Anthem. This is grasping at straws.


What firmware are you running in the AVM 50? If you are on the "official" V1.33, ask Anthem to let you try the "test" V.147f (if your AVM 50 is OK for it -- i.e., has either a red video board or a power supply that does NOT have the big, toroidal (donut shaped) transformer).

--Bob


----------



## Pixiu

Quick question. For a Sony PS3 to D2V via HDMI what setting should I use for Audio Output on the PS3? Option 1 = Bitstream. Option 2 = Linear PCM. Thank you.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pixiu* /forum/post/18832832
> 
> 
> Quick question. For a Sony PS3 to D2V via HDMI what setting should I use for Audio Output on the PS3? Option 1 = Bitstream. Option 2 = Linear PCM. Thank you.



The answer depends on a FAT PS3 or Slim PS3


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pixiu* /forum/post/18832832
> 
> 
> Quick question. For a Sony PS3 to D2V via HDMI what setting should I use for Audio Output on the PS3? Option 1 = Bitstream. Option 2 = Linear PCM. Thank you.



ALL PS3 Answers are *HERE*


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pixiu* /forum/post/18832832
> 
> 
> Quick question. For a Sony PS3 to D2V via HDMI what setting should I use for Audio Output on the PS3? Option 1 = Bitstream. Option 2 = Linear PCM. Thank you.



I recommend you use HDMI LPCM from a PS3 *EVEN IF* you have a newer PS3 that can output the new, lossless formats as HDMI Bitstream.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18828249
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume first appeared in "test" firmware V2.08d.
> 
> 
> --------------------------
> 
> 
> I installed "test" firmware V2.09b last night. The install was *SLOW*! It took an hour and 20 minutes. Part of that is that I've switched to a Windows XP environment running under Boot Camp 3.1 on my Mac, and it looks like this new Boot Camp may be reducing throughput through the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter. I've no idea why. The other reason for the slowness is what JAYRAY already reported with the video board programming appearing to cycle many times -- possibly programming a small portion of the video micro-code each time. So prepare to be patient.
> 
> 
> Despite the slow install, preliminary testing shows no problems with V2.09b.
> 
> --Bob



ok, now I'm confused. I was sure I was running 2.08f, but my D2v is just showing 2.08. If it was 2.08f, wouldn't it say so when I bring the info up on screen?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/18833900
> 
> 
> ok, now I'm confused. I was sure I was running 2.08f, but my D2v is just showing 2.08. If it was 2.08f, wouldn't it say so when I bring the info up on screen?



It should. Try the new beta 2.09b.

John


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

I am hooking my d2 up for the first time . i have 1.31 installed what is the latest ? i get no picture on my tv only the d2 screen blue menu


bert


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/18837896
> 
> 
> I am hooking my d2 up for the first time . i have 1.31 installed what is the latest ? i get no picture on my tv only the d2 screen blue menu
> 
> 
> bert



Go to page 1 and read about what rs232 to usb adapter is being used successfully.


Install at least firmware 1.33(official) or the 1.47f beta


Then read the rest of page 1, most info are there already




Alvin


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/18837896
> 
> 
> I am hooking my d2 up for the first time . i have 1.31 installed what is the latest ? i get no picture on my tv only the d2 screen blue menu
> 
> 
> bert



Have you read the manual? That's the first start, then go and read the first page of this forum.







Then enjoy your new toy. Have fun.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/18837896
> 
> 
> I am hooking my d2 up for the first time . i have 1.31 installed what is the latest ? i get no picture on my tv only the d2 screen blue menu
> 
> 
> bert



To get the beta version you have to contact Anthem Tech for the password. This will allow you to downoad v1.47f of the firmware.

John


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18832610
> 
> 
> Try the alternate data formats for output from the AVM 50: YCbCr 4:2:2, YCbCr 4:4:4 and Studio RGB. Try having your player send YCbCr 4:4:4 to the Anthem. This is grasping at straws.
> 
> 
> What firmware are you running in the AVM 50? If you are on the "official" V1.33, ask Anthem to let you try the "test" V.147f (if your AVM 50 is OK for it -- i.e., has either a red video board or a power supply that does NOT have the big, toroidal (donut shaped) transformer).
> 
> --Bob



Running 1.33. I have downloaded 1.47f but not installed it yet as I heard there were some changes to the HDMI behavior that might cause loss of handshake with some devices - something about the HDMI repeater function being removed.


Is it a simple procedure to roll back to 1.33 if I have problems with 1.47f?


Thanks


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18839521
> 
> 
> Running 1.33. I have downloaded 1.47f but not installed it yet as I heard there were some changes to the HDMI behavior that might cause loss of handshake with some devices - something about the HDMI repeater function being removed.
> 
> 
> Is it a simple procedure to roll back to 1.33 if I have problems with 1.47f?
> 
> 
> Thanks



The repeater function was removed before 1.33. 1.47f is supposed to make handshakes better and faster but I haven't tried it yet since I don't have access to the password protected site.


----------



## BladeRnR

Hi guys,


I have been an observer of this thread for the last few months garnering as much information as possible from Bob's fantastic, informative posts (And of course many other contributors). I am on the cusp of purchasing an Anthem D2V given Australian prices have reached U.S Parity (Or better in some cases) due to a new distributor here. I actually saw a D2V recently at the Melbourne CEDIA 2010 show last week. Given the D2V was once $18,000AUD it was always unobtanium for me until now. They also had a couple of the upcoming MX receivers on the floor (I know the MX300 was one).


If you can tolerate my neophyte like questions I would certainly like to hear your opinions:


- I'm currently using an SVS AS-EQ1 to EQ dual Seaton Submersive Subwoofers and am extremely happy with the results. Can I use ARC exclusively for the other channels and keep the SVS for the LFE channel?


- I'm most interested in the D2V's ability to upsample to 192k on all channels. What are people's experience with BD's lossless formats in this regard vs previous processors they've owned?


- I currently use an OPPO BD-83 plugged into an Integra DHC-9.9 (Straight through no video processing). Can I pass the video signal untarnished (Source direct) straight to my Sony VPL-VW80? Are there advantages in allowing the D2V governance over the HDMI input/Output in this setup given most source is 1080P/24fps?


- By no means do I wish a room correction war but I am currently using Audyssey Pro with the DHC-9.9 and think the results to be pretty good in my room (size 8 meters x 4.5 with 2 open space in between). If you've experience Audyssey before and moved to ARC I would very much like to hear your opinion.


Thanks for putting up with questions that have no doubt been touched upon before.


Blade


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18839521
> 
> 
> Running 1.33. I have downloaded 1.47f but not installed it yet as I heard there were some changes to the HDMI behavior that might cause loss of handshake with some devices - something about the HDMI repeater function being removed.
> 
> 
> Is it a simple procedure to roll back to 1.33 if I have problems with 1.47f?
> 
> 
> Thanks



You can rollback to 1.33 if it doesn't work. A lot of people have had it improve hdmi syncing so it's worth a try.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BladeRnR* /forum/post/18839944
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> I have been an observer of this thread for the last few months garnering as much information as possible from Bob's fantastic, informative posts (And of course many other contributors). I am on the cusp of purchasing an Anthem D2V given Australian prices have reached U.S Parity (Or better in some cases) due to a new distributor here. I actually saw a D2V recently at the Melbourne CEDIA 2010 show last week. Given the D2V was once $18,000AUD it was always unobtanium for me until now. They also had a couple of the upcoming MX receivers on the floor (I know the MX300 was one).
> 
> 
> If you can tolerate my neophyte like questions I would certainly like to hear your opinions:
> 
> 
> - I'm currently using an SVS AS-EQ1 to EQ dual Seaton Submersive Subwoofers and am extremely happy with the results. Can I use ARC exclusively for the other channels and keep the SVS for the LFE channel?
> 
> *I would use ARC for everything. It's correction ability will be superior to the SVS's.*
> 
> 
> - I'm most interested in the D2V's ability to upsample to 192k on all channels. What are people's experience with BD's lossless formats in this regard vs previous processors they've owned?
> 
> *I had an AVM 50 which could not do this for all channels. The D2v was a clear winner, it's sound on BD formats is unparalleled, simply fantastic.*
> 
> 
> - I currently use an OPPO BD-83 plugged into an Integra DHC-9.9 (Straight through no video processing). Can I pass the video signal untarnished (Source direct) straight to my Sony VPL-VW80? Are there advantages in allowing the D2V governance over the HDMI input/Output in this setup given most source is 1080P/24fps?
> 
> *I use he Anthem video setup configurations (all 4 of them) for different players and frame rates ie. 24, 60, and various colour formats, ie. 4:2:2 or 4:4:4. This allows me to switch on the fly instead of changing things in the setup menu whenever I start a movie. Bob usually recommends with the oppo, to set it to explicit 1080p with 24fps on. Then have the anthem set to the same thing in the video config. Nothing is done to the signal.*
> 
> 
> - By no means do I wish a room correction war but I am currently using Audyssey Pro with the DHC-9.9 and think the results to be pretty good in my room (size 8 meters x 4.5 with 2 open space in between). If you've experience Audyssey before and moved to ARC I would very much like to hear your opinion.
> 
> *I would use ARC, since it comes with the D2V and because it will be as good and IMHO, better than Audessey. I have not heard Audessey pro but below that iteration I have and there is no comparison. Sell the Audessey pro, you won't need it.*
> 
> 
> Thanks for putting up with questions that have no doubt been touched upon before.
> 
> 
> Blade



I believe you have a very easy decision to make









John


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18840139
> 
> 
> - I'm currently using an SVS AS-EQ1 to EQ dual Seaton Submersive Subwoofers and am extremely happy with the results. Can I use ARC exclusively for the other channels and keep the SVS for the LFE channel?
> 
> 
> I would use ARC for everything. It's correction ability will be superior to the SVS's.



Not sure if John is familiar with the SVS system but it is very good EQ system so saying ARC is superior is a bit of a stretch. Having said that even if you keep the EQ1 you would likely want to keep ARC in the subwoofer loop too to preserve your room gain that ARC calculates. In direct answer to your question yes you can tell ARC not to EQ your subwoofer.



> Quote:
> - I currently use an OPPO BD-83 plugged into an Integra DHC-9.9 (Straight through no video processing). Can I pass the video signal untarnished (Source direct) straight to my Sony VPL-VW80? Are there advantages in allowing the D2V governance over the HDMI input/Output in this setup given most source is 1080P/24fps?



Strictly speaking the video processing is *not* able to be bypassed. There is no pass-thru.


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You can rollback to 1.33 if it doesn't work. A lot of people have had it improve hdmi syncing so it's worth a try.
> 
> John



Guess I need to backup and reload my ARC settings?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18840562
> 
> 
> Guess I need to backup and reload my ARC settings?



Your ARC setting will be on your PC and you can reload them anytime. They say you do not have to reload your ARC calculation with a upgrade (or downgrade) of the firmware but our expert Bob always does anyway.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18840562
> 
> 
> Guess I need to backup and reload my ARC settings?



Bob usually does a reload of his ARC calculations after a firmware update since one already has their computer hooked up to the anthem unit. Takes only a few more minutes and ensures no corruption in these file within the anthem. It may not help but won't hurt









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18840395
> 
> 
> Not sure if John is familiar with the SVS system but it is very good EQ system so saying ARC is superior is a bit of a stretch. Having said that even if you keep the EQ1 you would likely want to keep ARC in the subwoofer loop too to preserve your room gain that ARC calculates. In direct answer to your question yes you can tell ARC not to EQ your subwoofer.
> 
> 
> 
> Strictly speaking the video processing is *not* able to be bypassed. There is no pass-thru.



Technically speaking it is not a true pass-thru, however the Anthem will not "tarnish" the 1080p/24 coming from the oppp since it will do nothing to the signal to change it.

John


----------



## obie_fl

Not to be a nit picker but the Gennum will still apply its Brightness/Contrast/Color/Tint and any Noise Reduction or Detail Enhancement to the signal. The resolution and color space may not change but the Gennum still "touches" the signal.


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/18837984
> 
> 
> Have you read the manual? That's the first start, then go and read the first page of this forum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then enjoy your new toy. Have fun.



no sir have not read manual , the unit did not come with one , i called anthem they walked me threw the reset and they thinnk it maybe the hdmi board ? bumming . i need arc to be installed anyway . thanks for your advice bert


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18842110
> 
> 
> Not to be a nit picker but the Gennum will still apply its Brightness/Contrast/Color/Tint and any Noise Reduction or Detail Enhancement to the signal. The resolution and color space may not change but the Gennum still "touches" the signal.



I think we're splitting hairs. I have tested both(staight and through the Anthem) with my pj, and I couldn't tell any diff. All settings were default to the D2v video processor on a calibrated pj. The gennum does not apply anything to the pic when left at default settings. So if colour space is set the same in the oppo as in the anthem, it is effectively pass-thru.

John


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18842110
> 
> 
> Not to be a nit picker but the Gennum will still apply its Brightness/Contrast/Color/Tint and any Noise Reduction or Detail Enhancement to the signal. The resolution and color space may not change but the Gennum still "touches" the signal.




Those are setting that should have been applied to Calibrate your display, hence providing you with the best picture for your display possible, but yes you are correct on what the D2v will do for your particular "untouched" application of 1080/24


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/18843195
> 
> 
> Those are setting that should have been applied to Calibrate your display, hence providing you with the best picture for your display possible, but yes you are correct on what the D2v will do for your particular "untouched" application of 1080/24



What is the Gennum "touching" and thereby changing from the native signal in the oppo, ie. 1080p/24?

John


----------



## obie_fl

John - The Gennum will use it's version of Brightness/Contrast/Color/Tint which at default is highly unlikely to be exactly the same as the Oppo. If one can actually see a difference is open to debate. It is splitting hairs and picking nits but I am trying to be objective while you are being subjective. I can't help it I'm an Engineer.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/18842194
> 
> 
> no sir have not read manual , the unit did not come with one , i called anthem they walked me threw the reset and they thinnk it maybe the hdmi board ? bumming . i need arc to be installed anyway . thanks for your advice bert



When you do the ARC download from the Anthem website it will include a pdf file called 'manuals'. It will have the D2 manual included that you can open and save to your desktop for easy access. There's no need to get a hard copy.


The manual is very well written and should be a lot of help for set-up, but this thread is available for any questions you may have. Bob P. has helped many of us on many occaisions.


Hope you get your unit up and running soon. Once you do, you will enjoy it lots.

Good luck.


Tom


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I have an Epson 950UB projector which has a rather weak lumen output when using the calibrated Natural/THX mode.

If I go for the Cinema Day/Livingroom or Vivid/Dynamic mode I get the lumens back but the Golor gamut is off target for Green and Cyan, my grayscale/RGB is nowhere near the target under 30IRE and above 80IRE and my Gamma is all over the place.

Can my D2v's Gennum do something here although I don't like the idea of putting some more corrections on the path?

If so what would be the right method?


Thank you


----------



## smboyer

I used 9.9 before and moved to avm50v. In my room the upgrade made a siginficant difference. Seemed to be more separation in the surround effects


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18844088
> 
> 
> John - The Gennum will use it's version of Brightness/Contrast/Color/Tint which at default is highly unlikely to be exactly the same as the Oppo. If one can actually see a difference is open to debate. It is splitting hairs and picking nits but I am trying to be objective while you are being subjective. I can't help it I'm an Engineer.



I've checked with Anthem, ie. Nick and he agreed with my assessment, engineer or not









John


----------



## obie_fl

What exactly is your "assessment"? I doubt Nick is saying that the Brightness/Contrast/Color/Tint controls are bypassed. That is the only point I'm trying to make. If both the Gennum and Oppo are calibrated exactly the same I agree there will be little to no visual difference. But I still stand by my statement that the Gennum "touches" the signal no matter what. That I believe is what the original poster was asking. It is relevant because you can't ignore the Anthem in the video chain by simply matching up colorspace and resolution, there are other factors that have to be considered.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18845984
> 
> 
> What exactly is your "assessment"? I doubt Nick is saying that the Brightness/Contrast/Color/Tint controls are bypassed. That is the only point I'm trying to make. If both the Gennum and Oppo are calibrated exactly the same I agree there will be little to no visual difference. But I still stand by my statement that the Gennum "touches" the signal no matter what. That I believe is what the original poster was asking. It is relevant because you can't ignore the Anthem in the video chain by simply matching up colorspace and resolution, there are other factors that have to be considered.



We'll just have to agree to disagree. That is exactly what he said. Perhaps we can end this here as this thread is usually for helping people and not arguing about minutia, for which I am partly to blame.

John


----------



## Kris Deering

Even if the Anthem touches the signal, it would be easy to determine whether any issues are caused with test patterns. Most displays probably "touch" an incoming signal far more than the Anthem does if properly setup. A true video bypass is always a nice option, but if the signal integrity remains intact in Anthem's setup it shouldn't be a big deal.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/18846243
> 
> 
> Even if the Anthem touches the signal, it would be easy to determine whether any issues are caused with test patterns. Most displays probably "touch" an incoming signal far more than the Anthem does if properly setup. A true video bypass is always a nice option, but if the signal integrity remains intact in Anthem's setup it shouldn't be a big deal.



thanks Kris for the clarification.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18844672
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I have an Epson 950UB projector which has a rather weak lumen output when using the calibrated Natural/THX mode.
> 
> If I go for the Cinema Day/Livingroom or Vivid/Dynamic mode I get the lumens back but the Golor gamut is off target for Green and Cyan, my grayscale/RGB is nowhere near the target under 30IRE and above 80IRE and my Gamma is all over the place.
> 
> Can my D2v's Gennum do something here although I don't like the idea of putting some more corrections on the path?
> 
> If so what would be the right method?
> 
> 
> Thank you



There's not much you can do if the color primaries and secondaries are off in those picture modes. That's a problem in the display that would need to be fixed in the display (perhaps in service menu settings). Mind you it is VERY common for displays to have weird factory calibrations in the picture modes other than the one mode dedicated to critical viewing of movies.


But the D2v can help with your Gamma problem.


Using the Live Video Settings Editor utility you can build custom Gamma Correction curves. You can build either a single gray scale curve or separate curves for R, G, and B. Once you have a custom correction to try, you upload it to the D2v and it them becomes available in Video Source Adjust > Output for each Source.


The process of finding curves that work well is tricky, even with proper optical measurement tools. There's a whole forum here devoted to display calibration and the various tools out there. You'll find tricks in there like concentrating on Green first since it dominates a lot of the light output.


LVSE will be found in the Utilities folder of the ARC V2.4 install kit (your original ARC CD or a fresh download from the Anthem web site). It does not need to be "installed". You can run it straight from the downloaded folder.


When building the curves, note that LVSE gives you a leg up by letting you pre-construct a "simple" exponential curve with a correction value you specify. Do that, and then tweak the curve from there according to what your measurement tools are telling you after you upload and try it.


If you find that a simple, single gray scale exponential correction curve is all you need (unlikely given your description of the problem), you can achieve that directly in Video Source Adjust > Output by specifying an exponential gamma correction value instead of using uploaded custom curves.


A final note: It is almost always better to correct display problems IN THE DISPLAY. So see what you can do with the display's user and service controls FIRST.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/18845984
> 
> 
> What exactly is your "assessment"? I doubt Nick is saying that the Brightness/Contrast/Color/Tint controls are bypassed. That is the only point I'm trying to make. If both the Gennum and Oppo are calibrated exactly the same I agree there will be little to no visual difference. But I still stand by my statement that the Gennum "touches" the signal no matter what. That I believe is what the original poster was asking. It is relevant because you can't ignore the Anthem in the video chain by simply matching up colorspace and resolution, there are other factors that have to be considered.



There's not a lot of magic to this. If those controls are set at their factory defaults then the Anthem doesn't alter the video going by.


Now you can't bypass the video processor in the Anthem when using HDMI or "processed" Component or S-Video. In particular, video less than 1080p gets scaled up to 1080p, and then scaled down for output if your specified output is less than 1080p.


(You CAN "pass through" Component video and S-Video, completely unprocessed. The video processor never sees it. Unprocessed Component input will appear only on the Component outputs. Unprocessed S-Video input will appear only on the S-video output. Composite video input is never processed in the Anthems and only appears on the Composite video output. All the Anthem does with such unprocessed video is "switch" the selected Source to the Display output of the identical type.)


Even with 1080p input, the video processor will likely do data format conversion as the video passes through the processor. The internal processing is done in RGB so YCbCr input gets converted to RGB. If your output is YCbCr then the video gets converted to that on output. There may also be conversions that have to be made due to the bit depth of the video. Internally the D2v carries the video as 12 bits per component (36 bits per pixel). Depending upon whether the Source and/or Display supports such "Deep Color" bit depth, the signal may need to be padded or trimmed.


But all of this stuff is done to high precision. The bottom line is that unless you tell the video processor to do something to your 1080p input (e.g., format convert it or adjust its picture levels or add gamma correction or the like) the input will end up getting to the output unmolested.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I agree with Kris too.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, the video processor is from Sigma Designs. They bought that product line from Gennum some time ago.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/18833900
> 
> 
> ok, now I'm confused. I was sure I was running 2.08f, but my D2v is just showing 2.08. If it was 2.08f, wouldn't it say so when I bring the info up on screen?



Press Select once and the firmware version will show up at the end of the first line of info displayed.


If it says V2.08 instead of V2.08f then you may have accidentally picked the wrong installer when you thought you were installing V2.08f.


There have been a couple instances where a "test" firmware version erroneously displayed the wrong version number after installation, but I don't believe V2.08f was an example of that.


What you may be thinking of is that "official" V2.08 was released and then almost immediately replaced by the current version (20nov09). If you nabbed the original release and then later replaced it with the "real" release, both would show only "V2.08" in the Select display.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18846761
> 
> 
> By the way, the video processor is from Sigma Designs. They bought that product line from Gennum some time ago.
> 
> --Bob



My D2 is still a Gennum.







Now if Sigma Designs wants to come out and put a new processor in I guess I'll let them... shoot I'd settle for some free swag from them.


----------



## usxplong

I have a question.

When I run Arc, my sub 25 was adjusted at -5 and base was very weak from sub 25. I left that as -5 because everything is controled by ARC but I raised the Sub/LFE level on d2v to +8 to get great base. I also checked the phase on sub 25 from 0 to 180 and I did not see any difference at all at any phase number so I left it at 0. I checked the polarity and changed it to Inverted because this was giving me more base. Is there something wrong with ARC that somehow sets the sub too low or I am doing something wrong. Or maybe d2v does not boost the base level by 10 db (before send it to sub) because DD lowers tha base by -10 db on dvds to protect the cuircuits?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18846941
> 
> 
> I have a question.
> 
> When I run Arc, my sub 25 was adjusted at -5 and base was very weak from sub 25. I left that as -5 because everything is controled by ARC but I raised the Sub/LFE level on d2v to +8 to get great base. I also checked the phase on sub 25 from 0 to 180 and I did not see any difference at all at any phase number so I left it at 0. I checked the polarity and changed it to Inverted because this was giving me more base. Is there something wrong with ARC that somehow sets the sub too low or I am doing something wrong. Or maybe d2v does not boost the base level by 10 db (before send it to sub) because DD lowers tha base by -10 db on dvds to protect the cuircuits?



The D2v is putting out correct output levels. (The 10dB LFE boost you are talking about is something that happens upon INPUT not output, and the D2v does it correctly.)


Post your ARC charts and Targets window and lets take a look. Having to boost your sub output by +8dB is definitely not right. It may be that your "uncorrected" setup was just way too hot in bass to begin with and so you've gotten used to too much bass, but the charts will tell the story.


Another possibility is that you've overworked your sub and it is activating it's protection circuit -- lowering volume instead of cutting it off completely.


Another possibility is that you have the DD/DTS Dynamics reduction turned on in the D2v -- night mode for example -- or that you have dynamic compression turned on in your Source.

--Bob


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/18844189
> 
> 
> when you do the arc download from the anthem website it will include a pdf file called 'manuals'. It will have the d2 manual included that you can open and save to your desktop for easy access. There's no need to get a hard copy.
> 
> 
> The manual is very well written and should be a lot of help for set-up, but this thread is available for any questions you may have. Bob p. Has helped many of us on many occaisions.
> 
> 
> Hope you get your unit up and running soon. Once you do, you will enjoy it lots.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> 
> Tom




thanks tom


i am really bummed it took me almost a year redoing the house get all of the av set up and well the d2 isn't working just shipped it to anthem in n.y. Hopein for a week or two turn around . Sorry about cap locks some one has complained before just habit .


Bert


----------



## usxplong

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
The D2v is putting out correct output levels. (The 10dB LFE boost you are talking about is something that happens upon INPUT not output, and the D2v does it correctly.)


Post your ARC charts and Targets window and lets take a look. Having to boost your sub output by +8dB is definitely not right. It may be that your "uncorrected" setup was just way too hot in bass to begin with and so you've gotten used to too much bass, but the charts will tell the story.


Another possibility is that you've overworked your sub and it is activating it's protection circuit -- lowering volume instead of cutting it off completely.


Another possibility is that you have the DD/DTS Dynamics reduction turned on in the D2v -- night mode for example -- or that you have dynamic compression turned on in your Source.

--Bob
Hello Bob,

Thanks for your help.

I have been using ARC with d2v for quite some time now so I am used to corrected bass by ARC. And also I have not turned on the Dynamic Compresion on d2v or my sources but I will check again later. Attached is my ARC results.

I appreciate your help as always.

 

ARC.doc 92k . file


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/18844672
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I have an Epson 950UB projector which has a rather weak lumen output when using the calibrated Natural/THX mode.
> 
> If I go for the Cinema Day/Livingroom or Vivid/Dynamic mode I get the lumens back but the Golor gamut is off target for Green and Cyan, my grayscale/RGB is nowhere near the target under 30IRE and above 80IRE and my Gamma is all over the place.
> 
> Can my D2v's Gennum do something here although I don't like the idea of putting some more corrections on the path?
> 
> If so what would be the right method?
> 
> 
> Thank you



No, majority of projector manufacturers are tweaking their units to get the highest lumens rating that they can get away with(vivid,dynamic) to the detriment of color accuracy. If you ever tinker with the available controls for any projector to get optimum greyscale and accurate color gamut at the said settings, you would probably lower the light output very near your optimal setting.(thx/natural). You have to stard at what setting is closest to D65 and fine tune from there.


I have just calibrated an Epson last week and the light output is really only 1/2 of my Anthem LTX500. That being said, you can always increase it by using a screen with around 1.3 to 1.5 gain. Moving the PJ forward near its wide zoom setting will also increase output significantly.


Epsons and Panasonic, in my opinion should only be used for screens 100" or smaller to get a proper 12-16ftL.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18846941
> 
> 
> I have a question.
> 
> When I run Arc, my sub 25 was adjusted at -5 and base was very weak from sub 25. I left that as -5 because everything is controled by ARC but I raised the Sub/LFE level on d2v to +8 to get great base. I also checked the phase on sub 25 from 0 to 180 and I did not see any difference at all at any phase number so I left it at 0. I checked the polarity and changed it to Inverted because this was giving me more base. Is there something wrong with ARC that somehow sets the sub too low or I am doing something wrong. Or maybe d2v does not boost the base level by 10 db (before send it to sub) because DD lowers tha base by -10 db on dvds to protect the cuircuits?



I just can't see a problem with the sub, but I am more concerned with the midrange output of your center speaker. How is it oriented? Is it pointing directly at your ears?


Alvin


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18848255
> 
> 
> I just can't see a problem with the sub, but I am more concerned with the midrange output of your center speaker. How is it oriented? Is it pointing directly at your ears?
> 
> 
> Alvin



My center is at the floor level but I have tilted it up towards the listening position.

But I don't know what is wrong with my sub level. I have tried 2 different subs and got the same results meaning I had to raise the vollume buy 8-10 db to get adequate output.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18847747
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> I have been using ARC with d2v for quite some time now so I am used to corrected bass by ARC. And also I have not turned on the Dynamic Compresion on d2v or my sources but I will check again later. Attached is my ARC results.
> 
> I appreciate your help as always.



I don't see anything in your charts that would explain what you are hearing.


I recommend you re-Upload these ARC results in case you accidentally modified something in Setup after your original Upload.


Also make sure that Room EQ = ON for each Source (and Dolby Volume = OFF while diagnosing this).


AFTER you re-Upload these ARC results and check Setup > Source Setup for each Source, do the following:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video, continue via the front panel display

3) Reload Saved User Settings


This will clear any "temporary" level adjustments you may have set accidentally and forgotten about.


Now test your bass again. If you still have a problem, go into Setup Level Calibration and see how the subwoofer test tone measures for SPL compared to the main speakers.

--Bob


----------



## JimP

Has anyone tried running 3D through the D2v and AVM50V and if so, what were the results?


Do not know just how necessary HDMI 1.4 compliance for 3D actually applied.


----------



## benleeys

Bob,

I am using a Sony S1000ES BR feeding my D2. The Sony is set to output "Direct", meaning it outputs the primary audio only.


On BR discs with DTS-HD audio, I see the D2 indicating 5.1 DTS" as audio input while the Sony shows "DTS-HD 48kHz/16bit" output.


Puzzle: Is the Sony converting DTS-HD to LPCM for output to the D2? If so, how does the D2 know it's from a DTS source?


Or is DTS-HD being output to the D2 which is treating it simply as a lossy DTS signal?


Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.

Ben


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18849530
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I am using a Sony S1000ES BR feeding my D2. The Sony is set to output "Direct", meaning it outputs the primary audio only.
> 
> 
> On BR discs with DTS-HD audio, I see the D2 indicating 5.1 DTS" as audio input while the Sony shows "DTS-HD 48kHz/16bit" output.
> 
> 
> Puzzle: Is the Sony converting DTS-HD to LPCM for output to the D2? If so, how does the D2 know it's from a DTS source?
> 
> 
> Or is DTS-HD being output to the D2 which is treating it simply as a lossy DTS signal?
> 
> 
> Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
> 
> Ben



If the D2 is indicating it is receiving DTS 5.1 it appears the player is outputting the core DTS track (as a bit stream) rather than LPCM. I doubt it would be sending the DTS-HD bitstream to a HDMI 1.1 device.


I seem to recall the Sony Blu-ray players (when set to Direct) decide what to output based on what the connected device reports it is capable of (based on the EDID information).


So maybe the D2 (I have an AVM50 so I am interested in this subject as well) is not reporting it can handle uncompressed LPCM?


----------



## obie_fl

I took a peek at the Sony manual and don't see any obvious way to force it to send LPCM. You could try setting DTS to Downmix PCM but that is supposedly for coaxial/optical only. It may be that the Sony is sending the core because it is expecting 7.1 from the Anthem EDID and the D2 only supports 5.1 on HDMI.


----------



## SMabille_UK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/18849286
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried running 3D through the D2v and AVM50V and if so, what were the results?
> 
> 
> Do not know just how necessary HDMI 1.4 compliance for 3D actually applied.



Hi JimP,


Contrary to popular belief HDMI 1.4a is not required for 3D, it barely help signalling when and what type of 3d is used (frame or side-by-side), without HDMI you might have to push 1 or 2 buttons on your TV remote (what a drama....). That's how PS3 and Sky UK set top box are doing 3D without being HDMI 1.4a.


Side-by-Side (as used by Sky UK) should clearly works without any problem, the question is still open for frame, unfortunately no experience so far but it should be ok as it's should appears as 24p between the player and the TV (when in reality it's "48i" one frame for each eye).


Stephane


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18849530
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I am using a Sony S1000ES BR feeding my D2. The Sony is set to output "Direct", meaning it outputs the primary audio only.
> 
> 
> On BR discs with DTS-HD audio, I see the D2 indicating 5.1 DTS" as audio input while the Sony shows "DTS-HD 48kHz/16bit" output.
> 
> 
> Puzzle: Is the Sony converting DTS-HD to LPCM for output to the D2? If so, how does the D2 know it's from a DTS source?
> 
> 
> Or is DTS-HD being output to the D2 which is treating it simply as a lossy DTS signal?
> 
> 
> Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
> 
> Ben



First of all, you have to use HDMI for audio from the player to get what you want.


Next, the player has to have the ability to decode DTS-HD to HDMI LPCM for output. I haven't checked to see if your player can do that.


Next, you need to make sure that "Secondary Audio Mixing" is disabled in the player. Mistakenly enabling Secondary Audio will force the player to use the lossy, compatibility, "core", traditional DTS track instead of the DTS-HD primary track so that it can mix in the Secondary Audio when present. The player may very well report it is playing the DTS-HD track when in fact it is actually using only the "core" DTS track that happens to be embedded inside the DTS-HD for just such compatibility purposes. This will usually happen EVEN IF you don't happen to have selected any features on the disc that contain Secondary Audio (e.g., commentary tracks).


Finally, you need to make sure the player has LPCM set as your desired output type for HDMI Audio output. I haven't looked in the Sony manual, and I see the post above that says there is no setting for this, but there must be. It may be in a section devoted to HDMI output setup in the player.


It may be that your "Direct" mode disables conversion of DTS-HD to HDMI LPCM, in which case Direct is not the setting to use.

--Bob


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18849530
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I am using a Sony S1000ES BR feeding my D2. The Sony is set to output "Direct", meaning it outputs the primary audio only.
> 
> 
> On BR discs with DTS-HD audio, I see the D2 indicating 5.1 DTS" as audio input while the Sony shows "DTS-HD 48kHz/16bit" output.
> 
> 
> Puzzle: Is the Sony converting DTS-HD to LPCM for output to the D2? If so, how does the D2 know it's from a DTS source?
> 
> 
> Or is DTS-HD being output to the D2 which is treating it simply as a lossy DTS signal?
> 
> 
> Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
> 
> Ben



Dts-HD is not the same as DTS master audio. Are you sure it is a MA disc? I believe DTS-HD will come across as core DTS bit stream which the d2 is indicating. A DTS master audio disc should be converted to LPCM when sent to the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No. DTS-HD is the generic term for the new DTS formats including DTS-HD HR and DTS-HD MA in various combinations of channel count and sampling rate and sample size.


For use with the original D2 they should all be "decoded" to HDMI LPCM in the player, presuming the player can do that.


If you are getting a traditional, lossy DTS bitstream track instead into the D2 then something is wrong in the player, the settings in the player, or the mistaken use of something other than HDMI cabling for the audio.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18849530
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I am using a Sony S1000ES BR feeding my D2. The Sony is set to output "Direct", meaning it outputs the primary audio only.
> 
> 
> On BR discs with DTS-HD audio, I see the D2 indicating 5.1 DTS" as audio input while the Sony shows "DTS-HD 48kHz/16bit" output.
> 
> 
> Puzzle: Is the Sony converting DTS-HD to LPCM for output to the D2? If so, how does the D2 know it's from a DTS source?
> 
> 
> Or is DTS-HD being output to the D2 which is treating it simply as a lossy DTS signal?
> 
> 
> Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
> 
> Ben



It is explained on page 56 of the Sony's manual. As the D2 cannot do the decoding of DTS-HD or Dobly-HD you have to choose the 'Mix' option which as a side effect of mixing primary and secondary audio, convert everything to LPCM before sending it to the D2.


You do not loose anything in term fidelity for lossless audio. Also I usually set the 'Audio DRC' to 'Wide Range'.


----------



## Donloz

Here is an article from CE Pro, on the D2.V

http://www.cepro.com/article/review_...t_d2v_pre_pro/


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18848647
> 
> 
> I don't see anything in your charts that would explain what you are hearing.
> 
> 
> I recommend you re-Upload these ARC results in case you accidentally modified something in Setup after your original Upload.
> 
> 
> Also make sure that Room EQ = ON for each Source (and Dolby Volume = OFF while diagnosing this).
> 
> 
> AFTER you re-Upload these ARC results and check Setup > Source Setup for each Source, do the following:
> 
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 
> 2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video, continue via the front panel display
> 
> 3) Reload Saved User Settings
> 
> 
> This will clear any "temporary" level adjustments you may have set accidentally and forgotten about.
> 
> 
> Now test your bass again. If you still have a problem, go into Setup Level Calibration and see how the subwoofer test tone measures for SPL compared to the main speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,

I have fw 2.8 so I don't think I have Dolby Vollume.

I check the sub level and that is set by ARC by 5db lower than the rest of the speakers.

I don't know if that is normal.

You think something went wrong while uploading ARC?


Thanks again.


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18831060
> 
> 
> I've had an email conversation going on with Anthem tech support for about a week. They keep suggesting this is a frame rate problem. I have the Anthem's output configuration set to the same as the HTPC is outputting and I have tried 24p, 50p, and 60p, all with the same result.
> 
> 
> The last suggestion they made was to try a standalone Blu-ray player and they said that would guarantee the stutter to go away. I have emailed back that it did not but haven't received any response.
> 
> 
> Bob, here's the link to a camcorder clip showing playback of the "Cars" Blu-ray. It's a direct real time shot of my plasma display. Please take a look at it, you should see the frame skipping clearly in the panning scene of the memorabilia shelf and the truck moving. Does it look like a frame rate issue to you?



What do you know. I have solved the problem and it wasn't the Anthem's fault.


It turns out that both the Samsung plasma and the Panasonic projector cause this type of stutter when fed a 1080p50 signal that is originally progressive (i.e. not deinterlaced from 1080i origin). The problem is much more noticeable on the Samsung but it is also there on the Panny.


The reason I discovered this was that I found out the Blu-ray player I tested with can only output 24p or 60p, not 50p. So I set it to 60p and realized that I needed to set the AVM50 to output 60p as well. I thought I had tested all possible combinations but I must have missed setting both devices to 60p because with that setting I suddenly had a perfectly stutter free picture!


Activating the Samsung's "Movie Plus" function pretty much got rid of the pull down judder after that.


I found having the Blu-ray player output at 24 Hz and the AVM50 at 60 Hz gave the best results.

With the HTPC outputting 60p and the AVM50 at 60p I also get excellent results.


Very strange that both a TV and a projector sold in EU where TV is 50Hz will not handle 50Hz properly.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18850463
> 
> 
> First of all, you have to use HDMI for audio from the player to get what you want.



Yes, I use HDMI for audio output



> Quote:
> _Next, the player has to have the ability to decode DTS-HD to HDMI LPCM for output. I haven't checked to see if your player can do that_.



All the manual says regarding HDMI audio output is either "Auto" or "2ch LPCM". I don't think 2ch LPCM is what I am looking for.



> Quote:
> _Next, you need to make sure that "Secondary Audio Mixing" is disabled in the player. Mistakenly enabling Secondary Audio will force the player to use the lossy, compatibility, "core", traditional DTS track instead of the DTS-HD primary track so that it can mix in the Secondary Audio when present. The player may very well report it is playing the DTS-HD track when in fact it is actually using only the "core" DTS track that happens to be embedded inside the DTS-HD for just such compatibility purposes. This will usually happen EVEN IF you don't happen to have selected any features on the disc that contain Secondary Audio (e.g., commentary tracks)_.



BD audio output is set to "Direct" (as opposed to "Mix") - it is supposed to output the primary audio only. So it shouldn't be using the "core" DTS track.



> Quote:
> _Finally, you need to make sure the player has LPCM set as your desired output type for HDMI Audio output. I haven't looked in the Sony manual, and I see the post above that says there is no setting for this, but there must be. It may be in a section devoted to HDMI output setup in the player_.



As I mentioned above, there's only a choice of "Auto" or "2ch PCM", no mention of multi-ch PCM. I did try selecting "2ch PCM" and all I got was audio from the front speakers!



> Quote:
> _It may be that your "Direct" mode disables conversion of DTS-HD to HDMI LPCM, in which case Direct is not the setting to use.
> 
> --Bob_



It's either "Direct" or "Mix" only. Mix is supposed to mix both the primary and secondary tracks for output, which I don't think is what I want.


Bob, in case you wish to take a peek at the manual, this is the link -
http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/mod...ES&region_id=1 


Thanks for your help.

Ben


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18849537
> 
> 
> If the D2 is indicating it is receiving DTS 5.1 it appears the player is outputting the core DTS track (as a bit stream) rather than LPCM. I doubt it would be sending the DTS-HD bitstream to a HDMI 1.1 device.
> 
> 
> I seem to recall the Sony Blu-ray players (when set to Direct) decide what to output based on what the connected device reports it is capable of (based on the EDID information).



I think this must be it. Why else would the D2 indicate it is receiving DTS signal and not LPCM?


Ben


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/18850717
> 
> 
> It is explained on page 56 of the Sony's manual. As the D2 cannot do the decoding of DTS-HD or Dobly-HD you have to choose the 'Mix' option which as a side effect of mixing primary and secondary audio, convert everything to LPCM before sending it to the D2.
> 
> 
> You do not loose anything in term fidelity for lossless audio. Also I usually set the 'Audio DRC' to 'Wide Range'.



According to Bob, if the primary audio is set to mix with the secondary audio, the player will use the core DTS tracks instead of the HD tracks.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18851279
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> I have fw 2.8 so I don't think I have Dolby Vollume.
> 
> I check the sub level and that is set by ARC by 5db lower than the rest of the speakers.
> 
> I don't know if that is normal.
> 
> You think something went wrong while uploading ARC?
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



5dB below the rest of the speakers is OK.


I think that either the Upload didn't complete properly or perhaps you did something after the Upload which undid the settings, such as a Reload of Saved User or Installer Settings before having saved the new settings brought over by the Upload.


Anyway, it is simple to redo the Upload just to make sure.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18851437
> 
> 
> According to Bob, if the primary audio is set to mix with the secondary audio, the player will use the core DTS tracks instead of the HD tracks.
> 
> 
> Ben



With my experience with all the sony bd player that I have gotten, when you choose direct, it negotiate through hdmi what the other side can handle and use a subset of the audio stream if the client cannot handle the full lossless audio stream.

And with mix, it will decode to lpcm both audio stream (if it can do lossless decode) and send the combined lpcm stream to the receiver.

Some the early sony player could do one of dolby-hd or dts-hd and I don't recall which one, but your newer player should be able to decode all of the hd stream.


In any case you can always try with a bd like The Dark Night and see which one sound better.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18851506
> 
> 
> 5dB below the rest of the speakers is OK.
> 
> 
> I think that either the Upload didn't complete properly or perhaps you did something after the Upload which undid the settings, such as a Reload of Saved User or Installer Settings before having saved the new settings brought over by the Upload.
> 
> 
> Anyway, it is simple to redo the Upload just to make sure.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,

Just to make sure, the spl shows the level of sub 5db lower than the main speakers.

Is that fine?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18851372
> 
> 
> Bob, in case you wish to take a peek at the manual, this is the link -
> http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/mod...ES&region_id=1
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> Ben



According to the specs, and confirmed by Crutchfield, this player will decode the lossless formats to HDMI LPCM.


Pages 20 and 21 of the manual says to use

BD Audio Setting: Direct

Audio Output Priority: HDMI

Audio (HDMI): Auto


In addition the audio output table on pages 76 and 77 warns that you must be using a video output resolution of 720p or higher to get high bandwidth audio output, whether LPCM or Bitstream. (HDMI Resolution of Output Video Format -- page 50.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18851602
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> Just to make sure, the spl shows the level of sub 5db lower than the main speakers.
> 
> Is that fine?



No that doesn't sound right. Normally I'd expect the sub result to be the same or a little higher.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/18851302
> 
> 
> What do you know. I have solved the problem and it wasn't the Anthem's fault.
> 
> 
> It turns out that both the Samsung plasma and the Panasonic projector cause this type of stutter when fed a 1080p50 signal that is originally progressive (i.e. not deinterlaced from 1080i origin). The problem is much more noticeable on the Samsung but it is also there on the Panny.
> 
> 
> The reason I discovered this was that I found out the Blu-ray player I tested with can only output 24p or 60p, not 50p. So I set it to 60p and realized that I needed to set the AVM50 to output 60p as well. I thought I had tested all possible combinations but I must have missed setting both devices to 60p because with that setting I suddenly had a perfectly stutter free picture!
> 
> 
> Activating the Samsung's "Movie Plus" function pretty much got rid of the pull down judder after that.
> 
> 
> I found having the Blu-ray player output at 24 Hz and the AVM50 at 60 Hz gave the best results.
> 
> With the HTPC outputting 60p and the AVM50 at 60p I also get excellent results.
> 
> 
> Very strange that both a TV and a projector sold in EU where TV is 50Hz will not handle 50Hz properly.



Very strange indeed. Apparently the displays are not adjusting their refresh rate for /50p.


Anyway, glad you found your answer.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/18851530
> 
> 
> With my experience with all the sony bd player that I have gotten, when you choose direct, it negotiate through hdmi what the other side can handle and use a subset of the audio stream if the client cannot handle the full lossless audio stream.
> 
> And with mix, it will decode to lpcm both audio stream (if it can do lossless decode) and send the combined lpcm stream to the receiver.
> 
> Some the early sony player could do one of dolby-hd or dts-hd and I don't recall which one, but your newer player should be able to decode all of the hd stream.
> 
> 
> In any case you can always try with a bd like The Dark Night and see which one sound better.



With the combined LPCM into the D2, how do you get rid of the audio commentary?

Ben


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18851680
> 
> 
> No that doesn't sound right. Normally I'd expect the sub result to be the same or a little higher.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks again Bob.

So after I reload the ARC if I get the same results it means I have to redo ARC?

Possibly something went wrong during my last ARC.


Oops, while I am typing I remember on one of my ARC positions, I heard an airplane passed by. It was too far the the sound was too low and ARC didn't give me any error, but I think that added some db to the sub level and ARC lowered the sub by 5 db based on that.


Is that possible?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18851735
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob.
> 
> So after I reload the ARC if I get the same results it means I have to redo ARC?
> 
> Possibly something went wrong during my last ARC.
> 
> 
> Oops, while I am typing I remember on one of my ARC positions, I heard an airplane passed by. It was too far the the sound was too low and ARC didn't give me any error, but I think that added some db to the sub level and ARC lowered the sub by 5 db based on that.
> 
> 
> Is that possible?



Usually ARC is quite good at rejecting problem sounds. It won't always complain, because it just ignores them and uses the rest of the sweeps.


Anyway, yes, I'd say if the re-Upload produces the same poor result then you should redo your ARC Measurements. Don't forget the other items to check I put in my earlier post to make sure things are OK.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18851670
> 
> 
> According to the specs, and confirmed by Crutchfield, this player will decode the lossless formats to HDMI LPCM.
> 
> 
> Pages 20 and 21 of the manual says to use
> 
> BD Audio Setting: Direct
> 
> Audio Output Priority: HDMI
> 
> Audio (HDMI): Auto
> 
> 
> In addition the audio output table on pages 76 and 77 warns that you must be using a video output resolution of 720p or higher to get high bandwidth audio output, whether LPCM or Bitstream. (HDMI Resolution of Output Video Format -- page 50.)
> 
> --Bob



It doesn't specifically say DTS-HD will be converted to LPCM before being sent to the D2.


Anyway, I'll give it a try and see what happens. If it does convert, then I suppose I should be seeing the D2 indicating PCM input.


Thanks, Bob.

Ben


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18851778
> 
> 
> Usually ARC is quite good at rejecting problem sounds. It won't always complain, because it just ignores them and uses the rest of the sweeps.
> 
> 
> Anyway, yes, I'd say if the re-Upload produces the same poor result then you should redo your ARC Measurements. Don't forget the other items to check I put in my earlier post to make sure things are OK.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.

Really appreciate it.


----------



## Whitl

Looking for a little help. Have what I think they call a D1 HD running V1.33, it was a D1 upgrade to a D2. Trying to hook up a Western Digital HD Media Player via the HDMI but not having any success, Have tried everything from changing cables to different HDMI ports same result, the D2 doesn't even know anything is connected. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks

Lee


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/18853059
> 
> 
> Looking for a little help. Have what I think they call a D1 HD running V1.33, it was a D1 upgrade to a D2. Trying to hook up a Western Digital HD Media Player via the HDMI but not having any success, Have tried everything from changing cables to different HDMI ports same result, the D2 doesn't even know anything is connected. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Lee



Your probably right it doesn't know you connected it.

Did you connect it to one of the multiple input source selections such as DVD, TV or Sat ?

Then go into the setup and configure it with a name, input etc

Look in the D2 manual for the specifics


----------



## Whitl

Yes I have been through "source" setup many times, is it possible that the software version is outdated for this device.


----------



## politby

Anyone know if there are discrete IR codes for the AVM50 (which I can program into my Harmony One remote) to select the four output configurations indvidually?


When I want to play a Blu-ray, for instance, I would like to be able to select a specific output configuration without having to tie it to the source input.


I know I could create a separate input source for each of the 2 output configurations I have defined, but being able to select via a remote command would be nice.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Although you can view and change the Video Output Configuration selection using the shortcut under the Mode key (see the very end of Section 4.11 of the Manual), there is no IR code to directly access any of them.


For that you would need to use RS-232 control, which can do just about anything.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/18853059
> 
> 
> Looking for a little help. Have what I think they call a D1 HD running V1.33, it was a D1 upgrade to a D2. Trying to hook up a Western Digital HD Media Player via the HDMI but not having any success, Have tried everything from changing cables to different HDMI ports same result, the D2 doesn't even know anything is connected. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Lee



Get in touch with Anthem tech support. It's possible they may have heard from others trying to use this device.


Are you sure you have it set to output HDMI? Try hooking it up directly to a display to check.


How new is this device? Some older HDMI Sources have crappy HDMI implementations that won't work through an intervening device. I.e., they have to be directly connected to a TV to work at all. (They don't implement the "HDMI Repeater" portion of the HDMI protocol.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18851798
> 
> 
> It doesn't specifically say DTS-HD will be converted to LPCM before being sent to the D2.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'll give it a try and see what happens. If it does convert, then I suppose I should be seeing the D2 indicating PCM input.
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob.
> 
> Ben



Yes, the separate Specifications document, and the test reports from Crutchfield both say that you can do the decoding either in the player or in your AVR.


And yes, if you get it working right the D2 will show LPCM as the input type.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Hello Bob,

I did my ARC again yesterday and got the same results. My sub is about 5 db lower than my main speakers. Is it possible that my fw 2.08 is not good or there might me some tech issue?

Thanks,


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18851372
> 
> 
> Yes, I use HDMI for audio output
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the manual says regarding HDMI audio output is either "Auto" or "2ch LPCM". I don't think 2ch LPCM is what I am looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BD audio output is set to "Direct" (as opposed to "Mix") - it is supposed to output the primary audio only. So it shouldn't be using the "core" DTS track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned above, there's only a choice of "Auto" or "2ch PCM", no mention of multi-ch PCM. I did try selecting "2ch PCM" and all I got was audio from the front speakers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's either "Direct" or "Mix" only. Mix is supposed to mix both the primary and secondary tracks for output, which I don't think is what I want.
> 
> 
> Bob, in case you wish to take a peek at the manual, this is the link -
> http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/mod...ES&region_id=1
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> Ben



Like somebody else has already mentioned, the D2 is not able to decode losseless HD formats (DTH HD, or DOLBY HD), it will accept only the core for those. For this reason you don't see DTS HD, only DTS 5.1. If you want to hear losseless formats you have to decode those in your player, the Sony has to be set to output LPCM in place of beatstreaming (through HDMI).


----------



## Whitl

Bob


Thanks for the info, I have through trial and error figured out that the HDMI connector on the media player is no good and I'm packing it up and taking it back, will try another one.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18854335
> 
> 
> Yes, the separate Specifications document, and the test reports from Crutchfield both say that you can do the decoding either in the player or in your AVR.
> 
> 
> And yes, if you get it working right the D2 will show LPCM as the input type.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, Bob, I set BD Audio = Direct, Output Priority = HDMI and Audio (HDMI) = Auto.


Player displayed DTS-HD 48kHz audio out.

D2 displayed *PCM 48kHz* 5.1 audio in. Is this how it should look?

Sounds good.










Ben


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18855663
> 
> 
> Ok, Bob, I set BD Audio = Direct, Output Priority = HDMI and Audio (HDMI) = Auto.
> 
> 
> Player displayed DTS-HD 48kHz audio out.
> 
> D2 displayed *PCM 48kHz* 5.1 audio in. Is this how it should look?
> 
> Sounds good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



YES







That is exactly how it should look - you got it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18855663
> 
> 
> Ok, Bob, I set BD Audio = Direct, Output Priority = HDMI and Audio (HDMI) = Auto.
> 
> 
> Player displayed DTS-HD 48kHz audio out.
> 
> D2 displayed *PCM 48kHz* 5.1 audio in. Is this how it should look?
> 
> Sounds good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



Suddenly! As if by logic!










You are good to go.

--Bob


----------



## steven2583

I just calibrated my system with ARC again. I zeroed out all of the level settings and let ARC run. After running when I tested the levels between the speakers the right and left were about 1.5 db off and the surrounds were down about -5 DB. Should I go with the level ARC came up with or what I measure with my Radio Shack Analog Sound meter sitting in my prime position?


Why would ARC be so different? Could it be the other positions the mic was in?


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18857021
> 
> 
> Suddenly! As if by logic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are good to go.
> 
> --Bob



Not good. Upstairs neighbour banging on my front door.










Mucho thanks, Bob. Don't know what I'd do without you to hold my hand!

Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just calibrated my system with ARC again. I zeroed out all of the level settings and let ARC run. After running when I tested the levels between the speakers the right and left were about 1.5 db off and the surrounds were down about -5 DB. Should I go with the level ARC came up with or what I measure with my Radio Shack Analog Sound meter sitting in my prime position?
> 
> 
> Why would ARC be so different? Could it be the other positions the mic was in?



Trust the ARC results.


It is NORMAL for the SPL meter to see some differences when using the calibration tones after an ARC setup:


1) ARC uses a wider frequency range to establish the level than is present in the test tones.


2) The real level is a combination of the level ARC Uploads and the effect of the Room Correction parameters. For example ARC will often boost the Uploaded level so that the bulk of the Correction gets implemented as cuts instead of boosts. The SPL test tones aren't processed through ARC's Room Correction.


The bottom line is that the ARC results are more accurate, and you should only be concerned if you see problems on the charts or Uploaded levels that are pretty extreme, e.g., 7dB or more above or below 0.


You would only expect a precise SPL test tone match after ARC if there was little for ARC to correct and if the speakers were inherently pretty flat across the entire frequency range. A few dB variation is normal.

--Bob


----------



## Paladin80N

I put the D2v v2.09b firmware on last night. When the ARC is run, should Dolby Volume be turned off on on during the ARC sweep? The updated manual does not mention using Dolby Volume with ARC.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paladin80N* /forum/post/18859299
> 
> 
> I put the D2v v2.09b firmware on last night. When the ARC is run, should Dolby Volume be turned off on on during the ARC sweep? The updated manual does not mention using Dolby Volume with ARC.



I haven't heard any reason why it would interfere with ARC measurements.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paladin80N* /forum/post/18859299
> 
> 
> I put the D2v v2.09b firmware on last night. When the ARC is run, should Dolby Volume be turned off on on during the ARC sweep? The updated manual does not mention using Dolby Volume with ARC.



It should not matter, but I haven't actually checked to see if they got that right. There are a variety of things ARC disables during its test sweeps. The difference between those items and Dolby Volume is that ARC also disables them during normal listening after the Upload (for Sources where Room EQ = ON is set). Things like Center EQ and Room Resonance Filter for example. But Dolby Volume of course has to work with ARC so there's a possibility they might not have it quite right yet.


In my recent ARC run, I didn't do anything special to turn Dolby Volume off in the Sources I uses to test DV, and the ARC results seem to have come out just fine.

--Bob


----------



## MikeCornika

Hi Bob,


I have already installed the v2.09b, the handshake between analogue and HDMI is gone (at least for me) but between HDMI and HDMI is steel there. I don't understand how the guys from Anthem they are not able to fix it. I have to players HDMI each with two layers settings for DVD/BDV and DVD concert/BDV concert. When I have to switch from one source to the other I still lose the sound, I need to restart the D2V to recover it.

Thanks.


----------



## Paladin80N




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18859796
> 
> 
> It should not matter, but I haven't actually checked to see if they got that right. There are a variety of things ARC disables during its test sweeps. The difference between those items and Dolby Volume is that ARC also disables them during normal listening after the Upload (for Sources where Room EQ = ON is set). Things like Center EQ and Room Resonance Filter for example. But Dolby Volume of course has to work with ARC so there's a possibility they might not have it quite right yet.
> 
> 
> In my recent ARC run, I didn't do anything special to turn Dolby Volume off in the Sources I uses to test DV, and the ARC results seem to have come out just fine.
> 
> --Bob



The reason I asked is: I noticed Dolby volume was turned on by default after I updated the firmware v2.09b and it seemed a bit odd. This also leads to another thing I am curious about.


In general, after a completing a firmware update, does the ARC need to be redone? On the surface, it would seem that it probably depends on the content of the update.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paladin80N* /forum/post/18862132
> 
> 
> The reason I asked is: I noticed Dolby volume was turned on by default after I updated the firmware v2.09b and it seemed a bit odd. This also leads to another thing I am curious about.
> 
> 
> In general, after a completing a firmware update, does the ARC need to be redone? On the surface, it would seem that it probably depends on the content of the update.



Bob has suggested to do this just in case something in the firmware update changed or corrupted the present ARC upload. Since you are already connected to the Anthem, it wouldn't take very long to do the ARC upload as well. I have done it sometimes and not others. I have not noticed anything so far but that doesn't mean it won't at some time. Your choice.

John


----------



## glennQNYC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paladin80N* /forum/post/18862132
> 
> 
> The reason I asked is: I noticed Dolby volume was turned on by default after I updated the firmware v2.09b and it seemed a bit odd.



I believe Dolby requires their technology to be activated as a factory default.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't know whether or not Dolby mandates it or it was just done for the "test" firmware which features Dolby Volume, but yes, the first install you do that includes Dolby Volume will turn it on in each Setup > Source Setup. So you need to go turn it off after the firmware install if you don't want to play with it just now. Other DV settings are also set to factory default by this first firmware install.


LATER firmware installs preserve whatever you have currently set for each Source as regards Dolby Volume OFF/ON/CINEMA REFERENCE. Your other DV setting choices are also preserved in later firmware installs.


Remember that you can also view and adjust DV OFF/ON/CINEMA REFERENCE while viewing any Source by pressing the "0" button and using the Up/Down arrows. Changes you make this way get recorded in Setup > Source Setup for the Source you are watching, i.e., they are "permanent" changes for that Source.


-------------------------------


If there's going to be a bug as regards DV during ARC Measurement, it is likely the critical Source is the AM/FM Source, since that's the one ARC has as the active Source while it is doing its Measurement sweep tones. To test this, someone would have to set DV ON (or DV CINEMA REFERENCE) in the AM/FM Setup > Source Setup, then do an ARC Measurement, and then do it all over again with DV OFF.


If it matters at all (its not clear DV would be sensitive to the sweep tones ARC is generating), what SHOULD happen is that ARC temporarily insures DV is OFF in that Source Setup when it configures the processor prior to beginning the first of the sweep test tones. Then of course it should reset it back to what you had when it finishes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paladin80N* /forum/post/18862132
> 
> 
> The reason I asked is: I noticed Dolby volume was turned on by default after I updated the firmware v2.09b and it seemed a bit odd. This also leads to another thing I am curious about.
> 
> 
> In general, after a completing a firmware update, does the ARC need to be redone? On the surface, it would seem that it probably depends on the content of the update.



Most of the recent firmware changes have not altered anything which would impair the value of your previous ARC results. [In fact some recent "test" firmware releases made it difficult to redo ARC as the Setup > Level Calibration test tones were broken!] We can only hope that Anthem includes something in the release notes if a firmware update should be combined with a new ARC Measurement pass.


The ARC results themselves get Uploaded as two separate things. First there are changes made in the Setup menu. These get saved when you Save User and/or Installer Settings. So as long as you have remembered to Save these prior to doing a firmware install, they will be restored when you Reload Saved User or Installer Settings after the firmware install. (You must Reload Factory Defaults prior to the firmware install, so you have to get your personal settings reloaded afterwards.)


Second, ARC uploads Room Correction parameters into a special memory that you can not view. Those parameters are NOT Saved when you Save User or Installer Settings, but on the other hand, they are apparently quite difficult to lose. We've been told they survive intact when you do a firmware install, and even if you do a Reload Factory Defaults. Apparently the only way to get rid of them is to do an "Erase" operation from the ARC Windows application. They get replaced in their entirety as part of each ARC Upload you do.


That said, it is my personal practice to re-Upload my latest set of ARC results after each firmware install, "just in case". It is easy to do since you've already got the cable attached. So:


1) Save User and/or Installer Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults

3) Do the firmware install (make sure all HDMI sources and displays are not powered during this -- I recommend pulling wall power from them -- only needed during firmware installs)

4) Reload Saved User or Installer Settings (its OK to re-power your HDMI sources and displays now).

5) Re-Upload your latest ARC results

6) Take a look in the Setup menu to double check that things look correct

7) Save User and/or Installer Settings to be sure you have captured what ARC just Uploaded into the Setup menu (which should be the same as what you had before).


In addition, it is my personal practice to redo my ARC Measurements for each new "official" ARC software release and for each new "official" firmware release even if there are supposedly no changes that affect my use of ARC. Depending upon what happens with intervening "test" releases, I may or may not redo my ARC Measurements when switching to one of those. For example, I was using my ARC results from last November through all the recent Dolby Volume "test" firmware releases -- only recently redoing it when I moved my equipment. But if the "official" DV firmware release had come out first, I would have redone my ARC Measurements after installing that anyway. And will do so again now, even though I recently did the Measurements for the new location.


For most folks, the need to redo ARC Measurements will arise because you have changed something in your viewing area -- in particular if you have moved/re-pointed speakers or seating, or made changes in your room configuration that might impact reflections (e.g., adding curtains). The audio corrections will typically be much more sensitive to such things than will your video calibrations for example. Your old ARC results will still be "pretty close" so you don't have to re-Measure instantly, but you should schedule time to re-Measure as soon as possible. If you move the sub, also re-check the sub Polarity/Phase.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18860455
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I have already installed the v2.09b, the handshake between analogue and HDMI is gone (at least for me) but between HDMI and HDMI is steel there. I don't understand how the guys from Anthem they are not able to fix it. I have to players HDMI each with two layers settings for DVD/BDV and DVD concert/BDV concert. When I have to switch from one source to the other I still lose the sound, I need to restart the D2V to recover it.
> 
> Thanks.



Please email the details on your problem Sources, and what you are doing when the audio gets lost, to Anthem tech support.


This is most likely NOT a problem with the HDMI handshake per se, but rather with the algorithm Anthem is using to validate the incoming digital audio stream each time it is interrupted and restarted. I.e., they are muting the audio to reject noise until the digital audio input stream is determined to be "real". They've been tweaking this algorithm recently to try to better reject noise from some Sources which have a bad habit of sending garbage when they restart the audio stream.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks thinking of redoing your ARC setup, but with no pressing urgency to do so, keep in mind that Anthem is about to ship the first of their new, "receiver" products (announced last month). And they will likely need to release an update to ARC to support those.


Whether that update includes any improvements/changes for the current prepros is something we'll just have to wait and see. But you might want to wait until that new ARC software comes out to save time and not have to do things all over again when it does come out.

--Bob


----------



## ravichopra

I'm not sure at what point this problem cropped up as I've definitely played this SACD before, but I just found that I get no sound when I try to play Global Percussion Network's "Rauk" SACD.


I've got the BDP-83 connected to a 1st gen Anthem AVM-50. Other SACDs appear to play fine.


For whatever reason, the Anthem is kicking over to AnalogDSP as the input when I play this disc. There is no analog connection between the two at this time. The digital HDMI input appears to be accepted just find with all other SACDs.


I'm guessing that the issue cropped up due to one of the Oppo firmware upgrades (there haven't been any AVM-50 firmware changes in a LONG time). I know they've sorted out a lot of the SACD and DVDA issues the BDP-83 originally had, but wonder if this may be a newly introduced one.


Any thoughts here? It's really strange & would love to get it sorted out.


(BTW - also posted in BDP-83 thread)

-Ravi


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Give Oppo tech support a call. The BDP-83 is apparently not recognizing the disc. It is possible this is due to damage to the disc, but perhaps not. They'll sort that out for you.


Make sure the Oppo is set to output 720p or higher for video. HDMI audio is embedded in the video and you need high res video to provide space for the high bandwidth audio.


While in there, check the basics of your SACD setup in the Oppo. You must send LPCM to the AVM 50 when playing SACDs. And make sure that you have the SACD Priority set to play the portion of the SACD disc you want to play. Perhaps this disc doesn't have the portion you are trying to play.


Meanwhile, go into Setup > Source Setup for that input and turn Auto Dig OFF. Auto Dig ON is likely why the AVM 50 is switching to analog audio input when it sees no digital audio present on the HDMI cable.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

This is now available for download from the password protected page.


Change Notes:


v2.4.11 beta


1. Added speaker positioning helper under Advanced mode / Tools / Quick Measure. This sweeps the selected speaker continuously to instantly show uncorrected frequency response graph. This can be most useful for finding a location for the subwoofer, since bass resonances vary greatly according to speaker positioning. Approximately ten sweeps are needed before graph is shown - after that update is live.


NOTE: Quick Measure resets crossover and level calibration setup menus. If you won't be following Quick Measure with a full ARC procedure, and your existing crossover and level settings in teh setup menu will be needed afterward, save or record them first.


2. Added compatibility for MRX 300/500/700 receivers. If loading a file that was creating using AVM, Statement D, or MRX 900, ARC will fail the upload then ask if you would like to convert the file to MRX 300/500/700 format to allow loading. Give it a different file name when prompted if you would like to keep the original file.


3. Added Flat correction range option when speakers are set to full range in Targets. To access Flat setting, select Full Range X-Over, then set frequency lower than 25 Hz or type "f" in the frequency window. (Also remember that typing "n" in frequency window disables the speaker, as long as it is not Fronts).


----------



## obie_fl

Well all right feature number one sounds like what many have been waiting for. At least I know I have thanks for listening Anthem.










And feature number 2 seems to verify that the lower end receivers have different ARC capabilities. Someone still needs to tell marketing.


----------



## jayray

Somewhere in this version is the ability of ARC to do a better job of correcting below 25 Hz so that would good for those who have subsonic digging subs









John


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Somewhere in this version is the ability of ARC to do a better job of correcting below 25 Hz so that would good for those who have subsonic digging subs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Hi


Does anyone have Piero's email? I lost it and want to touch base with him on some bug that I had in my d2v...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There's timing for you! So now we know what's coming in the next ARC release.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Several changes are evident in the "test" ARC V2.4.11 downloaded folder.


First, the D2v and the AVM 50v both get updated manuals. These manuals include Dolby Volume, and also include some additional ARC documentation. Apparently ARC's "Advanced" mode has now become "Manual" mode vs. "Automatic", which makes more sense.


Settings Backup, Live Video Settings Editor and the documentation files found in the Utilities folder are unchanged. However Setup Editor (utility to view and change the Setup Menu from a PC) has been removed, presumably because they don't yet have a version compatible with the Dolby Volume changes in the Setup menu.


The Windows stuff that gets installed during the ARC app install has been repackaged. And an ARC file called Recalibration Data has been replaced by a new file called New Recalibration Data. I believe this is the base calibration for the ARC mic which then gets modified by the individual calibration file that comes with each mic. This is probably related to the increased emphasis on correction below 25Hz, but might also be addressing some high frequency issues. We'll just have to try it and see.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Folks should understand that the "flat" subsonic response option in the new, "test" ARC V2.4.11 should ONLY be used if you have rare main speakers that really can go very low, and that can do so AT VOLUME!


It is not unusual for top quality "full range" fronts to Measure as producing output below 30 Hz, but that's at the low volumes used by the test tones. If you hit such speakers with higher volumes at those low frequencies they won't do so well. That's WHY the 25Hz roll off is built into ARC's main speaker response Target curves.


But if you have powered woofers in your fronts (or satellite subs attached to them, which amounts to the same thing) and you know they really are capable of going down to say 16Hz AT VOLUME, then feel free to experiment with the "flat" subsonic response option -- with those fronts also set to Full Range in ARC (i.e., no bass at all steered from them to a separate, stand-alone sub).


For most folks with a decent, stand-alone sub, you will NOT want to run your fronts as "flat" in the subsonics. Even if you decide to run them Full Range (no bass steered from them) it is typically wise to let ARC roll them off anyway below 25Hz. But a more practical solution would be to NOT run them Full Range, but rather to run them with a cutoff/crossover of, say 30Hz or even 40Hz. Then the subsonic bass below that would end up being sent to your stand-alone sub -- in addition the full range of LFE content also going to the sub.


The bottom line is that for MOST people, letting your sub try to reproduce the subsonics is better then pushing them through your main, front speakers.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Anyone want to take a shot at describing and interpreting how this works in Beta 2.4.11 and how to use it ??


Added Flat correction range option when speakers are set to full range in Targets. To access Flat setting, select Full Range X-Over, then set frequency lower than 25 Hz or type "f" in the frequency window. (Also remember that typing "n" in frequency window disables the speaker, as long as it is not Fronts).


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/18866886
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> Does anyone have Piero's email? I lost it and want to touch base with him on some bug that I had in my d2v...



try [email protected] . Just put his name in the email and he'll get it.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

When you install "test" ARC V2.4.11 on top of a prior ARC installation, the original Recalibration Data file is left in Windows > Program Files along with the new, New Recalibration Data file. I don't know if the new ARC actually uses both files or if the older file was left behind to kind of make it easier to roll back to the prior version.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Just for fun, I opened one of my previous measurements using 2.4.11 and they looked quite different after a new calculation. Obviously with this version a NEW measurement is required. On holidays so I can't try it. Bob, we look to your leadership in this situation









John


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18867304
> 
> 
> Just for fun, I opened one of my previous measurements using 2.4.11 and they looked quite different after a new calculation. Obviously with this version a NEW measurement is required. On holidays so I can't try it. Bob, we look to your leadership in this situation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Yes, rather different, as can be seen from this pic. 2.4 measurements look very much worse using 2.4.11 to view.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18867887
> 
> 
> Yes, rather different, as can be seen from this pic. 2.4 measurements look very much worse using 2.4.11 to view.



Clearly something is happening, hopefully for the better. New measurements will be interesting to compare.

John


----------



## billatlakegeorge

It also appears that the +6db correction is fixed.


----------



## gonzalc3

Bob,


What is your take on the new ARC beta firmware?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/18869767
> 
> 
> It also appears that the +6db correction is fixed.



I take it you've done a measurement with the ARC 2.4.11. Anyother observations. I can't try it until I get home in a week or so







If the +6 dB is corrected, that will be a very good fix even if it isn't listed in the release notes.

John


----------



## usxplong

I haven't run the new ARC yet. Just compared my ARC file with the new 2.4.11. The 6db seems to be fixed. Also ARC now does things a lot more intellegently based on my old ARC date comparison between 2.4 and 2.411. The sub frequency correction is more intense. Also I think, ARC adjusts the corrected response based on the lowest dip to give a smooth curve (just an observation). Seems like new ARC is more powerful and more intellegent. Also seems like ARC is relocating more resources to the lower frequencies (below 5000). I will run the new ARC later today.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18869972
> 
> 
> I haven't run the new ARC yet. Just compared my ARC file with the new 2.4.11. The 6db seems to be fixed. Also ARC now does things a lot more intellegently based on my old ARC date comparison between 2.4 and 2.411. The sub frequency correction is more intense. Also I think, ARC adjusts the corrected response based on the lowest dip to give a smooth curve (just an observation). Seems like new ARC is more powerful and more intellegent. Also seems like ARC is relocating more resources to the lower frequencies (below 5000). I will run the new ARC later today.



Just a cautionary note. When opening older ARC files into new versions, sometimes we get weird results. In this version I noticed my curves got closer to the Target except for the higher freq. which look a lot worse. I don't believe this yet, call me skeptical. I will believe it when someone does new measurements. If it's too good to be true, it probably isn't









John


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18870219
> 
> 
> Just a cautionary note. When opening older ARC files into new versions, sometimes we get weird results. In this version I noticed my curves got closer to the Target except for the higher freq. which look a lot worse. I don't believe this yet, call me skeptical. I will believe it when someone does new measurements. If it's too good to be true, it probably isn't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Yes I noticed that too. Thats why I said it relocates the resources more towards the low frequency. If you want to raise the freq to a higher level, it will cost the corrected curve a lot. I am not sure if that will happen once everything is measured by new ARC. It is probably because the measurements were taken by old ARC.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18870493
> 
> 
> Yes I noticed that too. Thats why I said it relocates the resources more towards the low frequency. If you want to raise the freq to a higher level, it will cost the corrected curve a lot. I am not sure if that will happen once everything is measured by new ARC. It is probably because the measurements were taken by old ARC.



I upped the target freq. to 20000 Hz and after 5000 Hz the curves take a nose dive. This can't be what the new version does after doing new measurements, I would think.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Actually it appears to be just what it does. ARC sees much less high frequency output from the speakers whether you point it at an old Measurement file or take new Measurements.


My new Measured curves this evening look very similar to the set I Measured with ARC V2.4 a week ago --WHEN BOTH ARE VIEWED IN ARC V2.4.11. Not surprising since I'm careful to duplicate my room/speaker setup and mic positioning. But ARC V2.4 showed last week's Measurements as looking a lot better than they show in V2.4.11. Since the new Measurements look similarly bad I must assume this is the result of Anthem reinterpreting the mic data (different calibration).


The upshot is I had to raise my speaker cutoffs a bit and had to lower Max EQ Frequency all the way down to 9K (from my prior 20K) to get good Calculated results from the low end up to 9K. Above 9K does not look good, but it may just be that this is bogus data up there.


I've just Uploaded and I'm just starting to listen now.


Oh and yes, the 6dB anomaly in the basic volume level of the solution appears to be gone.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I mentioned to Nick my results with the processing, without measuring and he mentioned the newest version was uploaded half an hour ago.

Change Note:


v2.4.12 beta


1. Added advanced controls in Targets panel for the sub's low end rolloff.


John


----------



## jayray

Now with 2.4.12 my previous measurements, now processed with 2.4.12, look really good below 5K and higher freq. also look good.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Interesting! My guess is that V2.4.11 was not properly using the mic's individual calibration data file.


--------------------------------------


Another weird problem: After doing the Measurement and Upload with V2.4.11, I can no longer make Live Video Settings Editor complete a "Get" operation to retrieve the Video Source Adjust Menu settings from the processor. It finishes downloading the settings, but the "please wait" box on the screen never goes away and you have to abort.


I don't think this is a V2.09b firmware problem, as LVSE worked fine after that install. I tried the LVSE in the original ARC V2.4 install kit and it has the same problem.


--------------------------------------


OK off to try processing the Measurements I just took with V2.4.12.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I see no improvement in old (V2.4) or new (V2.4.11) Measured curves using V2.4.12.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I have taken an older 2.4 measurement which had 5-6 dB dips at 100 Hz for FR,FL and C channels. 2.4.12 has removed those and produced smooth curves in the room gain area. This hasn't happened except when I moved these speakers to correct a lot of these dips. ARC alone could not correct them. Now with 2.4.12, they appear corrected. This seems odd.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

So far in listening tests, I'm not hearing anything which would correspond to the roll off in high frequencies ARC V2.4.11 and .12 are showing in the Measured curves. Which makes me wonder if they are real.


Which also makes me wonder if pushing Max EQ Frequency even up only as far as 9KHZ is correcting "phantom" problems up there.


The charts notwithstanding, the results appear to be good so far.


---------------------------------


John, the limit on the amount of correction is a restriction Anthem imposed to protect speakers and amps. They may have decided they could get away with more than 6dB correction in certain frequency ranges. Then it's just a matter of moving the resources around to make that happen.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The draft manual that comes with the "test" ARC V2.4.12 download does not include any documentation on the new Targets windows parameters for subwoofer correction. Anyone brave enough to try playing with them?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

[/quote]John, the limit on the amount of correction is a restriction Anthem imposed to protect speakers and amps. They may have decided they could get away with more than 6dB correction in certain frequency ranges. Then it's just a matter of moving the resources around to make that happen.

--Bob[/quote]

Bob,

This is what I was wondering. I had sent an email to Nick asking about the raising of dBs since they have always said it could blow some speakers if raised too high. Thanks for your response. When I get back next week I'll try my newest measurements with my Sub 25 and the new speaker positions I've been using for a while.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*ARC V2.4.11 and .12 High Frequency Problem*

I'm going to make a set of 4 posts now showing charts for my system. I have a 5.1 system and I exclude the Center channel from the Music configuration. Each post will have 5 charts (the max AVS allows in one post): Two Movie charts, Two Music charts, and the Targets window.


The V2.4 results -- the last of the four posts -- were produced last week. The V2.4.12 results were produced yesterday (actually the Measurements were taken with V2.4.11, but these charts are Calculated with V2.4.12 from that). My room configuration, speaker positioning/pointing, and mic placement were identical for the 2.4 stuff from last week and the new stuff from yesterday, as much as is humanly possible. I actually lay out and mark mic positions with a tape measure for example. I take similar care with speaker positioning. The bottom line is that I believe the differences shown here really are due to the new ARC software.


Both sets of Measurements were done with "test" firmware V2.09b installed.


Also note that I only have one set of ARC licensing & mic calibration files installed, so there is no possibility of confusion with the wrong mic calibration file.


----------------------------------------


OK this first post is my "Final" results from yesterday: Measurements taken with ARC V2.4.11, and Calculated with ARC V2.4.12, and with Targets adjusted to get the best possible result I could achieve. Note that I could only push Max EQ Frequency up to 9KHz before ARC ran out of high frequency resources. If you push it higher, the mid range and high frequencies only get a modest amount of correction (see the ARC V2.4 Measurements as Calculated via ARC V2.4.12 -- the third post) to see what this looks like.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18871784
> 
> 
> So far in listening tests, I'm not hearing anything which would correspond to the roll off in high frequencies ARC V2.4.11 and .12 are showing in the Measured curves. Which makes me wonder if they are real.
> 
> 
> Which also makes me wonder if pushing Max EQ Frequency even up only as far as 9KHZ is correcting "phantom" problems up there.
> 
> 
> The charts notwithstanding, the results appear to be good so far.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> John, the limit on the amount of correction is a restriction Anthem imposed to protect speakers and amps. They may have decided they could get away with more than 6dB correction in certain frequency ranges. Then it's just a matter of moving the resources around to make that happen.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Nick said the new ARC is no diff in terms of how much it can correct dips. He told me to send my file to him to see what's going on.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*(Continued -- Post 2)*


This second post is the SAME ARC V2.4.11 Measurements as above, again as Calculated via ARC V2.4.12, but this time using the values ARC itself chose for Targets (i.e., after doing an Auto Detect in the Targets window). Compare the Targets window here with that in the first post to see what I did to get my Final results. You'll see that in addition to raising Max EQ Frequency to 9KHz, I also had to raise some of the Cutoff values to get clean results.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*(Continued -- Post 3)*


Now things start to get interesting. This next set of charts is the ARC V2.4 Measurements I took last week, but as Calculated by ARC V2.4.12. Note that I did NOT do an Auto Detect or change any of my final Targets values from last week. I.e., this is ARC V2.4.12 using the final Targets I chose last week.


Note in particular that the red Measured curves shown here are very close to identical to those shown from the ARC V2.4.11 Measurements taken yesterday. I take this as good evidence that my room/speaker configuration and mic placement really were identical both times, and that the difference in red Measured curves for these charts and the ones in Post 4, below, really are due just to the new ARC software's interpretation of the raw mic data. The question is, which ARC software is correct?


Note also how using a Max EQ Frequency of 20KHz causes ARC to run out of mid range and high frequency correction resources (only partial correction achieved).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*(Continued -- Post 4)*


As the final step, I used Windows Add/Remove programs to uninstall ARC V2.4.12, and then installed "official" ARC V2.4 -- the one I used for Measurements last week.


This last set of charts shows my ARC V2.4 Measurements from last week as also Calculated using ARC V2.4, where the Calculations are based on my final choice of Target values last week -- including correction all the way up to 20KHz.


Note in particular that the red Measured curves look a lot better in the high frequencies compared to the SAME data file as displayed in ARC V2.4.12. Also, the final Calculated results look a lot better. These are the results I've been using for the past week and they sound very good indeed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've sent the ARC details and results files to Anthem for analysis.

--Bob


----------



## mkaye

i found i had to raise the trim on all my speakers by +6dB to get a floor of 75dB

i actually had some negative trims when using 2.4 to get the same 75dB


mark


not using XLR connections


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18873304
> 
> 
> i found i had to raise the trim on all my speakers by +6dB to get a floor of 75dB
> 
> i actually had some negative trims when using 2.4 to get the same 75dB
> 
> 
> mark
> 
> 
> not using XLR connections



How are you measuring that?


The levels uploaded by ARC (whichever version) should correspond to what reference level input (not peak level) will produce when Main volume is set to -10dB (assuming Dolby Volume is OFF and thus not sticking its nose in).


What I've been calling the "basic volume level" of an ARC solution is the volume of the flat part of the Targets curves to the right of the crossover frequencies.


As best I can tell, whether you are being bitten by the 6dB bug in the older ARC or not, the level shown on the charts again corresponds to what reference level inputs will produce with Main volume at -10dB. The 6dB bug itself means that this "basic volume level" of the ARC solution ends up 6dB higher than it is supposed to be based on your preliminary setting of Test Level in Setup > Level Calibration.


When setting Test Level be sure to zero LF's level first as the two interact.


Keep in mind that you should not use the built in SPL test tones in Setup > Level Calibration to second guess ARC's level choices after your ARC Upload. The only way to double check ARC is to play Source content of a known level. Of course PEAK level from Source content can easily be 15dB higher than "reference" level.


(ARC uses a wider frequency range to select its level trims than is present in the Level Calibration test tones, and the effective level is further modified by what the Room Correction parameters are doing for cuts and boosts -- which don't happen when you play the Level Calibration test tones.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

After finishing with the ARC V2.4.12 stuff last night I decided to give Dolby Volume "Cinema Reference" a work out. NOTE: I've left the Dolby Calibration level at 0dB in Setup > Level Calibration.


I used Pirates of the Caribbean 3 (Blu-Ray, LPCM track) in my Oppo.


I played the film about 10dB softer than I would normally play it to counter the 10dB boost inherent in "Cinema Reference". The Main volume was further reduced to assume I was trying low volume playback to avoid rousing the neighbors. This seems the best method with Dolby Volume. I.e., lower Main volume so that the loudest passages are no louder than you like (given DV's attenuation of them), and then leave it to DV to produce proper level for softer passages and for things like dialog mixed into louder passages.


Leveling was set at the default value, 9, and Half Mode was left ON.


I found the frequency response pretty good. I did not find excessive bass used this way. The Leveling reacted pretty quickly when the dynamics picked up but was slower to recover when they went away. This led to dialog scenes after dynamic action where the voice volume increased while the actors were talking -- a bit disconcerting. In the heaviest dynamic passages, since I already had the volume turned down, ambient noises were pretty well dulled out, leaving a feeling of "deadness". But voices during those scenes remained clear and the frequency balance between LFE and other audio was pretty good.


Backing off on the Leveling setting might help this. More experimentation is needed.


(The loss of ambience when DV kicks in may also be related to the high frequency ARC V2.4.12 problem.)

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

I run my new ARC yesterday and as others noticed the upper freq. (higher than 10k hz) is not measured by new ARC. The biggest difference (I think is good) is new ARC calculates the corrected curve based on the lowest dip vs the preadjusted vollume level. So if there is a very low dip in the room, ARC will decrease the overall vollume to correct the dip and get a smooth cruve. This I think is better than adjusting everything based on the preadjusted 75db vollume. Also new ARC is more serious about sub freq. But the same problem is still on. ARC adjust the sub level by -5db or -6 db lower than the other speakers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Are you saying the Uploaded level trims for the sub are 6dB lower than you expected them to be or that the RESULT -- the actual output of the sub when playing real content, is 6dB lower than you think it should be.


I've got no problem with sub output from ARC V2.4.12, and the trims ARC has Uploaded make sense to me based on my SPL tests prior to doing the ARC pass.


Have you tried playing a calibration disc while using the level trims that ARC Uploaded to see if the LFE channel really is 6dB down compared to the other channels?

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18873842
> 
> 
> Are you saying the Uploaded level trims for the sub are 6dB lower than you expected them to be or that the RESULT -- the actual output of the sub when playing real content, is 6dB lower than you think it should be.
> 
> 
> I've got no problem with sub output from ARC V2.4.12, and the trims ARC has Uploaded make sense to me based on my SPL tests prior to doing the ARC pass.
> 
> 
> Have you tried playing a calibration disc while using the level trims that ARC Uploaded to see if the LFE channel really is 6dB down compared to the other channels?
> 
> --Bob



I used SPL to measure the level of my speakers and the sub level was -5 to -6 db lower than the rest of the speakers. Also the sub level that plays is very low at points that base can be hardly heard.


----------



## usxplong

By the way the advance mode on the target window for sub is very nice. Adjusting the sub to flat with min 20 hz really makes the sub curve too good.

I have not uploaded the results yet but will try it later today.

Seems like it should be a big sub improvement.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just tested the ARC V2.4.12 results I Uploaded last night using the AIX Audio Calibration disc (Blu-Ray: A 96KHz, 24-bit, 5.1 LPCM noise track).


In my setup, the SPL generated by my sub using this test track matches against all the other speakers. Of course anything as big as a 6dB difference would be easy to spot with this, and it just isn't there.


So whatever strange thing is going on in your setup, it is not happening here.


You should probably email your ARC results file to Anthem (not just the screen captured charts) along with a description of what's happening with your sub output level to see if they can spot any possible explanation. As you'll recall, I looked at the charts you posted before and I don't see anything so out of line in your red Measured curves as might explain a problem in the actual results.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18874018
> 
> 
> By the way the advance mode on the target window for sub is very nice. Adjusting the sub to flat with min 20 hz really makes the sub curve too good.
> 
> I have not uploaded the results yet but will try it later today.
> 
> Seems like it should be a big sub improvement.



Keep in mind that the sub has its own role to play as regards the Room Gain hump. "Flat" may not be the desirable result.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18874189
> 
> 
> I just tested the ARC V2.4.12 results I Uploaded last night using the AIX Audio Calibration disc (Blu-Ray: A 96KHz, 24-bit, 5.1 LPCM noise track).
> 
> 
> In my setup, the SPL generated by my sub using this test track matches against all the other speakers. Of course anything as big as a 6dB difference would be easy to spot with this, and it just isn't there.
> 
> 
> So whatever strange thing is going on in your setup, it is not happening here.
> 
> 
> You should probably email your ARC results file to Anthem (not just the screen captured charts) along with a description of what's happening with your sub output level to see if they can spot any possible explanation. As you'll recall, I looked at the charts you posted before and I don't see anything so out of line in your red Measured curves as might explain a problem in the actual results.
> 
> --Bob



I am using the Speaker Level Calibration test noise. Is it possible that your calibration disk has a boost for your sub level or d2v automatically boosts the sub level at the input?


Is it poosible for you to use the speaker calibration test noise and confirm?


Thanks,


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18874205
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the sub has its own role to play as regards the Room Gain hump. "Flat" may not be the desirable result.
> 
> --Bob



Flat does compensate for the room gain level. The difference is that it raises the level at around 100 hz to make the corrected curve straight from about 80 hz to 20 hz or possibly below 20 hz that we don't know. You can also adjust the sub offset from reference level. The default is -1. I changed it to 0 to be the same as the other speakers at 100 hz. I don't know the results yet. As you said it might not be a good idea. I will try it later today to make sure.


----------



## Texas steve

Bob a quick question on room gain. Why do you prefer to push the room gain up to increase the "hump' in the 100-200hz range vs what ARC suggests? Wouldn't that make the voice kind of "boomy"?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob a quick question on room gain. Why do you prefer to push the room gain up to increase the "hump' in the 100-200hz range vs what ARC suggests?



I don't. I prefer to use what ARC found unless there's some reason (in the charts) to believe ARC might have been fooled.


If ARC *has been* fooled, its usual result is to detect too small a Room Gain. Typically this can happen if there is a significant room dip right at the crossovers. Room Gain values in the 2-4dB range are pretty normal.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am using the Speaker Level Calibration test noise. Is it possible that your calibration disk has a boost for your sub level or d2v automatically boosts the sub level at the input?
> 
> 
> Is it poosible for you to use the speaker calibration test noise and confirm?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



Trying to use the Setup > Level Calibration tones to second guess ARC is problematic. ARC uses a wider frequency range to select the level than the tones produce (the tones are trying to avoid the crossovers). And the tones are not modified by the Room Correction cuts and boosts.


A good calibration disc, like the AIX disc, has test tones that are spot on. The Anthem does the right thing with them and the tones are played using the crossovers and the Room Correction adjustments. So testing levels with a good calibration disc and a good player is your BEST way to double check ARC's levels. Use the Level Calibration tones only for setting things up prior to ARC Measurement.


If using ARC's choice of levels you see the sub 6dB down from a calibration disc track, then there's a real problem that needs to be found and fixed.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18874427
> 
> 
> I don't. I prefer to use what ARC found unless there's some reason (in the charts) to believe ARC might have been fooled.
> 
> 
> If ARC *has been* fooled, its usual result is to detect too small a Room Gain. Typically this can happen if there is a significant room dip right at the crossovers. Room Gain values in the 2-4dB range are pretty normal.
> 
> --Bob



My room gain by ARC has typically been .85


----------



## Texas steve

So with the new ARC software we see the charts, what is the ear telling you guys? an improvement? Jayray, Bob?


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18873408
> 
> 
> How are you measuring that?
> 
> 
> The levels uploaded by ARC (whichever version) should correspond to what reference level input (not peak level) will produce when Main volume is set to -10dB (assuming Dolby Volume is OFF and thus not sticking its nose in).
> 
> 
> What I've been calling the "basic volume level" of an ARC solution is the volume of the flat part of the Targets curves to the right of the crossover frequencies.
> 
> 
> As best I can tell, whether you are being bitten by the 6dB bug in the older ARC or not, the level shown on the charts again corresponds to what reference level inputs will produce with Main volume at -10dB. The 6dB bug itself means that this "basic volume level" of the ARC solution ends up 6dB higher than it is supposed to be based on your preliminary setting of Test Level in Setup > Level Calibration.
> 
> 
> When setting Test Level be sure to zero LF's level first as the two interact.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that you should not use the built in SPL test tones in Setup > Level Calibration to second guess ARC's level choices after your ARC Upload. The only way to double check ARC is to play Source content of a known level. Of course PEAK level from Source content can easily be 15dB higher than "reference" level.
> 
> 
> (ARC uses a wider frequency range to select its level trims than is present in the Level Calibration test tones, and the effective level is further modified by what the Room Correction parameters are doing for cuts and boosts -- which don't happen when you play the Level Calibration test tones.)
> 
> --Bob



i was looking at the charts

w/2.4 i had a volume of 75dB

w/2.4.12 i had 67dB when measured without changing any values

i zeroed all the values, measured, raised the main level by +6dB and now had 75dB to the right of the hump


mark


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18874467
> 
> 
> Trying to use the Setup > Level Calibration tones to second guess ARC is problematic. ARC uses a wider frequency range to select the level than the tones produce (the tones are trying to avoid the crossovers). And the tones are not modified by the Room Correction cuts and boosts.
> 
> 
> A good calibration disc, like the AIX disc, has test tones that are spot on. The Anthem does the right thing with them and the tones are played using the crossovers and the Room Correction adjustments. So testing levels with a good calibration disc and a good player is your BEST way to double check ARC's levels. Use the Level Calibration tones only for setting things up prior to ARC Measurement.
> 
> 
> If using ARC's choice of levels you see the sub 6dB down from a calibration disc track, then there's a real problem that needs to be found and fixed.
> 
> --Bob



I will try to get the AIX disk and try.

Thanks,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This is the AIX Audio Calibration Blu-Ray disc I'm talking about:

http://www.aixrecords.com/catalog/oppo_bd.html 


You can buy it directly from them. They are a small outfit, so their order fulfillment can be a bit odd, but they put out good stuff.


Of course you can use test tones from other decent calibration discs as well -- "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray for example. It is usually best to find a test track that has a discrete LFE channel. On DVE HD Basics Blu-Ray for example, that would be the Multi-Channel Levels and Balance test. (The other test tracks they have which put out bass tones put them out on the main speaker channels and trust to bass steering and crossovers to get the bass to the subwoofer.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/18874553
> 
> 
> i was looking at the charts
> 
> w/2.4 i had a volume of 75dB
> 
> w/2.4.12 i had 67dB when measured without changing any values
> 
> i zeroed all the values, measured, raised the main level by +6dB and now had 75dB to the right of the hump
> 
> 
> mark



Yes, that would suggest you were bitten by the +6dB bug using V2.4, but that it is gone in V2.4.11 and .12.


What's supposed to happen is that if you zero out Level Calibration and set Test Level to produce 75dB SPL from the Level Calibration test tone, then ARC's solution should also be (close to) 75dB SPL. That appears to be working correctly in V2.4.11 and .12.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18874958
> 
> 
> This is the AIX Audio Calibration Blu-Ray disc I'm talking about:
> 
> http://www.aixrecords.com/catalog/oppo_bd.html
> 
> 
> You can buy it directly from them. They are a small outfit, so their order fulfillment can be a bit odd, but they put out good stuff.
> 
> 
> Of course you can use test tones from other decent calibration discs as well -- "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray for example. It is usually best to find a test track that has a discrete LFE channel. On DVE HD Basics Blu-Ray for example, that would be the Multi-Channel Levels and Balance test. (The other test tracks they have which put out bass tones put them out on the main speaker channels and trust to bass steering and crossovers to get the bass to the subwoofer.)
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18874510
> 
> 
> So with the new ARC software we see the charts, what is the ear telling you guys? an improvement? Jayray, Bob?



Jayray is away from his home theater, and suffering withdrawal....


I'm not satisfied yet with my V2.4.12 results. I may try using the default Max EQ Frequency value of 5KHz under the theory that what ARC thinks it has to work with above that point is actually bogus.


I definitely do not like what the V2.4.12 charts are showing, so I have to be careful not to let that bias what I'm hearing. However right now, I don't think what I've got is "right".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18874505
> 
> 
> My room gain by ARC has typically been .85



I'm not sure I recall your charts, but I believe we decided you had the type of dip that would confuse ARC, so I suggested you boost Room Gain by about 1dB -- to get it to 2dB -- and give that a listen.


Very low Room Gain is also a characteristic of rooms with elaborate acoustic treatment. But truly anechoic rooms don't really sound "right", so some Room Gain is usually a good idea.


Movie mixers assume home theaters will have a small amount of Room Gain. As I said, 2-4dB is pretty typical. Music mixers have no consensus on what to do in this regard. Some folks like to have their Music solution with a lower Room Gain in an effort to second guess what the Music mixers are doing. 1 or 2dB less Room Gain in a Music solution might be worth a listen. (That's subtracted from the "real" Room Gain of your room -- if ARC is confused in measuring that, you need to make allowance for that.)

--Bob


----------



## Milwaukeesk

I apolagize up front if this has been discussed in the last few month. I have been away and did not read through all of the posts.


What is the latest version of firmware out for the D2? I believe I have 1.33 but a beta version was floating around a while ago that could only be used on certain units. Has Anthem finalized a release for a new firmware version since then?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

They have not. It is still "Beta". V1.47f. We've had numerous good reports on it here.

--Bob


----------



## gonzalc3

Bob


In the arc 4.12, there is an option in the targets called advanced and has the options for the low and high filter.. But there is another one that is level or gain.. What is this last one for?


I know that these are in general options for the upper and lower rolloff.. But the other control I am not sure....


Thanks


----------



## Milwaukeesk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18875100
> 
> 
> They have not. It is still "Beta". V1.47f. We've had numerous good reports on it here.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, is this version okay if I don't have the red video board?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/18875668
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> In the arc 4.12, there is an option in the targets called advanced and has the options for the low and high filter.. But there is another one that is level or gain.. What is this last one for?
> 
> 
> I know that these are in general options for the upper and lower rolloff.. But the other control I am not sure....
> 
> 
> Thanks



The level is from 0 to -3. This is where ARC will base its boost or cut. If you are at 75dB or reference, that corresponds to 0. If it is at -3 then the reference level where ARC calculates is at 72dB on the graph. Mine was at -1 set by ARC and I feel its the best level position therefore I did not fiddle with it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*(ARC V2.4.12 continued -- Post 5)*


I decided I was NOT happy with my ARC V2.4.11 results when calculated at 9KHz with ARC V2.4.12. So I re-installed ARC V2.4.12 and decided to try again with the following thoughts in mind:


1) I believe the red Measured data above 5KHz is bogus in ARC V2.4.11 and .12. I've had one email exchange with Nick at Anthem on this but no resolution yet. If true, this would mean my attempt to correct ABOVE 5KHz was using bad data (and thus produced bad correction). So this time I'll leave Max EQ Frequency at 5KHz.


2) ARC found 3.945749dB of Room Gain in my room. I decided to drop the Music Room Gain by 1.5dB to better match my preconceptions of what Music mixers are doing as opposed to Movie mixers. The Movie stuff would stay (roughly) the same.


3) I want to raise the "cutoff" for the subwoofer to fix a sub positioning related hole around 100Hz. I don't want to move the sub just yet while we are still trying to figure out if the new ARC is accurately interpreting the raw mic data.


4) I want to experiment with the new "flat" response option for the sub since my sub is a THX Ultra 2 sub and is capable of going quite deep. (Its own subsonic protection kicks in below 15Hz.)


The rest is trial and error picking specific Room Gain and Cutoff values keeping in mind certain basics like you don't want to raise the Cutoff/Crossover for Center too high or you end up with dialog in the subwoofer. You need to get decent correction on the speakers for a full octave below their crossover to allow for the transition from the speaker to the sub, etc., etc.


At first I thought I had the new subwoofer level bias setting figured out. If you look at the charts and determine the "basic volume level" of the solution, then the subwoofer bias level says how much below that the sub Target curve will be (in dB) at whatever frequency is chosen for the sub "Cutoff". And indeed that appears to be true for the Sub curve. But then I was surprised to find that changing the sub bias level *ALSO* altered the basic volume level itself as shown in the charts for the other speakers. Not as much, but enough to notice.


Anyway, ARC had chosen a value of -1, and I ended up leaving it at that, mainly because I don't really understand it.


Here are the charts. I've just Uploaded this solution and started to give it a listen:

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Preliminary results are that this latest solution (5KHz -- Post 5) is definitely superior to my 9KHz "final" solution from yesterday.


I think it may be better than my prior V2.4 solution, but that will take more listening.


All this is notwithstanding the appearance of the charts above 5KHz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A thought on the new "Quick View" option as regards sub positioning:


You can use this to implement the old trick of playing the sound in reverse. That is, move your sub to your center seating position -- ideally lifted up closer to seated ear height, but on the floor if that isn't practical.


Now run the Quick View and move the mic around to candidate locations for the real sub positioning (perhaps 1 foot up from the floor) until you find the best location. Allow about 10 sweeps to get an accurate looking chart at each mic location.


Once you find the mic location that hears the best sub response, then reverse things again. Put the sub at that candidate location and set up the mic at ARC mic position #1. Now do Quick View again and try shifting the sub by small amounts (even inches matter at these frequencies) to get the best looking curve.


That then becomes your "best" sub positioning for you next ARC Measurement run.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

So, when it finds the 'best' position is in the middle somewhere how do I explain that to my wife!!! there is no "ARC" or mike position that will "calibrate " her!! Your wife must be

A. blind

b totally understanding

c. given up on you as she simply knows!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18878706
> 
> 
> A thought on the new "Quick View" option as regards sub positioning:
> 
> 
> You can use this to implement the old trick of playing the sound in reverse. That is, move your sub to your center seating position -- ideally lifted up closer to seated ear height, but on the floor if that isn't practical.
> 
> 
> Now run the Quick View and move the mic around to candidate locations for the real sub positioning (perhaps 1 foot up from the floor) until you find the best location. Allow about 10 sweeps to get an accurate looking chart at each mic location.
> 
> 
> Once you find the mic location that hears the best sub response, then reverse things again. Put the sub at that candidate location and set up the mic at ARC mic position #1. Now do Quick View again and try shifting the sub by small amounts (even inches matter at these frequencies) to get the best looking curve.
> 
> 
> That then becomes your "best" sub positioning for you next ARC Measurement run.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My recommendation is that you do not even try candidate locations which aren't wife approved. Otherwise the lowering of temperature in the household will adversely affect the results.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

I used the option of Flat, -1 and min sub eq. freq of 20 (as default) in the advance option. I uploaded the results to my d2v and noticed a good imrovement in sub performance. It really makes the whole sub graph too good to be true but seems like it is true. My chart is attached.








 

SUB.doc 126k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I have an independent way of checking my ARC results and I just tried it using the 5KHz (Post 5) solution discussed above.


My Velodyne DD series subwoofer puts out its own bass sweep tones on a stereo RCA jack pair. The idea is to feed that into the D2v using ANALOG-DSP, Stereo Audio Mode, Room EQ ON, and Dolby Volume OFF. The result is that the high bass frequencies are played by LF/RF and the low bass frequencies are played by the subwoofer (due to the Crossover bass steering) with the output from both speakers and the sub modified by ARC, but with no *OTHER* audio processing going on (e.g., surround sound).


Meanwhile the Velodyne also comes with its own calibrated mic and will generate real time audio response charts on an S-Video output as its bass sweep tones are playing.


So I can see bass response from 15 Hz up through and beyond the crossover frequency as fully processed by ARC.


As with the last time I checked this, the results were excellent. What's so impressive is not just how clean a response curve you get but that if you move the mic around to different parts of the seating area the response curve STAYS clean. This is the hard part -- removing the room modes so that the bass response is not so darn position dependent. ARC really is the cat's pajamas.


I can't easily capture the Velodyne graph to post here but the transition through the crossover was perfect (which also means my sub Polarity and Phase are right) and I found no downside to my use of ARC "flat" sub response in this trial. I had good bass down below 20Hz, with about a 4dB drop by 15Hz. All measured at about 78dB SPL.


So whatever might be screwed up at the high frequencies, the low frequency end of ARC V2.4.12 seems to be just peachy.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18879291
> 
> 
> I have an independent way of checking my ARC results and I just tried it using the 5KHz (Post 5) solution discussed above.
> 
> 
> My Velodyne DD series subwoofer puts out its own bass sweep tones on a stereo RCA jack pair. The idea is to feed that into the D2v using ANALOG-DSP, Stereo Audio Mode, Room EQ ON, and Dolby Volume OFF. The result is that the high bass frequencies are played by LF/RF and the low bass frequencies are played by the subwoofer (due to the Crossover bass steering) with the output from both speakers and the sub modified by ARC, but with no *OTHER* audio processing going on (e.g., surround sound).
> 
> 
> Meanwhile the Velodyne also comes with its own calibrated mic and will generate real time audio response charts on an S-Video output as its bass sweep tones are playing.
> 
> 
> So I can see bass response from 15 Hz up through and beyond the crossover frequency as fully processed by ARC.
> 
> 
> As with the last time I checked this, the results were excellent. What's so impressive is not just how clean a response curve you get but that if you move the mic around to different parts of the seating area the response curve STAYS clean. This is the hard part -- removing the room modes so that the bass response is not so darn position dependent. ARC really is the cat's pajamas.
> 
> 
> I can't easily capture the Velodyne graph to post here but the transition through the crossover was perfect (which also means my sub Polarity and Phase are right) and I found no downside to my use of ARC "flat" sub response in this trial. I had good bass down below 20Hz, with about a 4dB drop by 15Hz. All measured at about 78dB SPL.
> 
> 
> So whatever might be screwed up at the high frequencies, the low frequency end of ARC V2.4.12 seems to be just peachy.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Not to advise you but I think your sub rolloff at 105 can be adjusted to 120 because your sub level at 100 hz is too low. With changing it to 120 I think you will get a much better response.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18879867
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Not to advise you but I think your sub rolloff at 105 can be adjusted to 120 because your sub level at 100 hz is too low. With changing it to 120 I think you will get a much better response.



Can't be done. It would require more boost than ARC is willing to do. If I push it up to 120 I get residual errors in the Calculated sub curve.


LFE is pretty much all gone by 120Hz, so the loss of the top 15Hz doesn't bother me. That high LFE content is also duplicated in the main speaker channels anyway.


Since all of my crossovers are well below 105Hz, steered bass is fully handled by the sub without problems. So no need to raise it to support those speakers either. By the way, ARC's choice of cutoff for my sub in this setup was 80Hz.


The real solution, of course is to move the sub, but I'm not going to do that right now, and frankly as close as this solution is I'm not sure I'll bother at all. From my previous installation I know the sub itself is easily good up to 120Hz, but I'm happy with what I have here, at least for now. And my Velodyne test tones confirm that at least the crossover portion is working just fine.


---------------------------------------


I took a quick glance at the DOC file of charts you posted and you might want to take a look at whether you are overloading the steered bass using "flat" response with the sub cutoff so high. By that I mean look at where the main speakers are at the cutoff/crossover frequency for each. Now frequencies below those will be steered from them to the sub. But look at the sub response at that SAME frequency. It is kind of hot due to the boost around 100Hz which "flat" response gave you -- something you've already described.


The upshot is that the steered bass is going into a hot sub and will come out high compared to the frequencies just above it. Now what you are really trying to achieve at that point is the Room Gain boosted level (i.e., a few dB above the "basic volume level"), so you may be OK. But it's worth a look.


If you get that AIX audio calibration disc I mentioned, you'll find they have a nifty test track for validating your crossover's smoothness of level. It is a test tone that oscillates back and forth below and above the crossover. If the ear hears a single volume as the tone swings back and forth then the levels are well matched through the crossover. This also validates your subwoofer Polarity/Phase settings.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

I need some info on how to get to the page where I can enter a username and password to download the latest ARC version. I downloaded v. 1.47f for my D2 but I forgot and can't find the right page on the Anthem website.


TIA,

Ken


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18879929
> 
> 
> Can't be done. It would require more boost than ARC is willing to do. If I push it up to 120 I get residual errors in the Calculated sub curve.
> 
> 
> LFE is pretty much all gone by 120Hz, so the loss of the top 15Hz doesn't bother me. That high LFE content is also duplicated in the main speaker channels anyway.
> 
> 
> Since all of my crossovers are well below 105Hz, steered bass is fully handled by the sub without problems. So no need to raise it to support those speakers either. By the way, ARC's choice of cutoff for my sub in this setup was 80Hz.
> 
> 
> The real solution, of course is to move the sub, but I'm not going to do that right now, and frankly as close as this solution is I'm not sure I'll bother at all. From my previous installation I know the sub itself is easily good up to 120Hz, but I'm happy with what I have here, at least for now. And my Velodyne test tones confirm that at least the crossover portion is working just fine.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I took a quick glance at the DOC file of charts you posted and you might want to take a look at whether you are overloading the steered bass using "flat" response with the sub cutoff so high. By that I mean look at where the main speakers are at the cutoff/crossover frequency for each. Now frequencies below those will be steered from them to the sub. But look at the sub response at that SAME frequency. It is kind of hot due to the boost around 100Hz which "flat" response gave you -- something you've already described.
> 
> 
> The upshot is that the steered bass is going into a hot sub and will come out high compared to the frequencies just above it. Now what you are really trying to achieve at that point is the Room Gain boosted level (i.e., a few dB above the "basic volume level"), so you may be OK. But it's worth a look.
> 
> 
> If you get that AIX audio calibration disc I mentioned, you'll find they have a nifty test track for validating your crossover's smoothness of level. It is a test tone that oscillates back and forth below and above the crossover. If the ear hears a single volume as the tone swings back and forth then the levels are well matched through the crossover. This also validates your subwoofer Polarity/Phase settings.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,

I will adjust my ARC.


----------



## usxplong

Bob, In order to make my sub level match my mains at crossover, I have to change my crossover from 60 (by ARC) to 100hz and my sub rolloff from 120 (by ARC) to 115hz.


Does it sound right? I think crossover at 100hz is a bit too high.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, In order to make my sub level match my mains at crossover, I have to change my crossover from 60 (by ARC) to 100hz and my sub rolloff from 120 (by ARC) to 115hz.
> 
> 
> Does it sound right? I think crossover at 100hz is a bit too high.



100 Hz is indeed too high. I generally think 90 is a good upper limit.


Do an Auto Detect in the Targets window to restore all of ARC's original Targets. That will give you an example of how to make it work. Look at how the various speaker curves match the sub curve at their crossover frequencies.


Now as you start tweaking, try to preserve that. You want to expand the sub to higher frequencies but to do that you may need to lower its bias level a bit. These are new controls so we're all learning here.


Perhaps flat isn't the right answer in your setup.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I need some info on how to get to the page where I can enter a username and password to download the latest ARC version. I downloaded v. 1.47f for my D2 but I forgot and can't find the right page on the Anthem website.
> 
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Ken



Send me a PM with the user name and password you used (thus confirming you have access) and I'll reply with the page URL.

--Bob


----------



## Stevetd

How do you get a user name and password?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you get a user name and password?



It's no big secret, but Anthem has asked us not to post the access info here. They are trying to keep some sort of loose track of who is using this stuff, and they want to make sure folks know that "test" (Beta) software is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises, perhaps requiring you to roll back to a prior version.


Send an email to Anthem tech support explaining that you would like to try the Beta software and they will most likely reply with the access info.


Be aware that sometimes they put special versions up which are known to only work in certain configurations. I.e., not for everyone. They do this when working with someone to diagnose a problem.


So don't be too quick to jump on new stuff. Some fearless folks here will try it first and report.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18878706
> 
> 
> A thought on the new "Quick View" option as regards sub positioning:
> 
> 
> You can use this to implement the old trick of playing the sound in reverse. That is, move your sub to your center seating position -- ideally lifted up closer to seated ear height, but on the floor if that isn't practical.
> 
> 
> Now run the Quick View and move the mic around to candidate locations for the real sub positioning (perhaps 1 foot up from the floor) until you find the best location. Allow about 10 sweeps to get an accurate looking chart at each mic location.
> 
> 
> Once you find the mic location that hears the best sub response, then reverse things again. Put the sub at that candidate location and set up the mic at ARC mic position #1. Now do Quick View again and try shifting the sub by small amounts (even inches matter at these frequencies) to get the best looking curve.
> 
> 
> That then becomes your "best" sub positioning for you next ARC Measurement run.
> 
> --Bob



Bob ....How would this work for those of us with 2 subs?


----------



## dlynch34

So I installed the latest Beta firmware for the D2v and had some positive results switching from one source to another in zone 2. But it appears the bug is still present where Ill have sound for awhile and then it mutes out. The only fix seems to be to power up the main zone to get zone 2 to again work. Before I updated it would consitently not work. Now it seems to be intermittent.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18881485
> 
> 
> Bob ....How would this work for those of us with 2 subs?



Power one sub at a time and position it independently. AFTER the two sub locations are determined, then volume balance and polarity/phase match the two subs, also independently, with respect to the main speakers. Then power them both up and do your ARC Measurements.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/18881673
> 
> 
> So I installed the latest Beta firmware for the D2v and had some positive results switching from one source to another in zone 2. But it appears the bug is still present where Ill have sound for awhile and then it mutes out. The only fix seems to be to power up the main zone to get zone 2 to again work. Before I updated it would consitently not work. Now it seems to be intermittent.



Send the details of what you found with both versions to Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## Nuport

I'm am a proud new owner of a D2v! Now only if I had time to play with it. Going to have to wait for next week. Thanks for this very informative thread. Will be used a lot in the weeks to come.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Welcome to AVS, and to the "Cool Kids Thread"!


In addition to reading the Manual, give the first post of this thread a look. There you will find many post links to the good parts version of this thread. I particularly recommend looking at "Video Calibration for Non-ISF Techs" in the setup collection of post links. After that, start reading the thread backwards from the end. I wouldn't bother going back more than a couple months of posts as of course almost all the old information is now outdated.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18880370
> 
> 
> 100 Hz is indeed too high. I generally think 90 is a good upper limit.
> 
> 
> Do an Auto Detect in the Targets window to restore all of ARC's original Targets. That will give you an example of how to make it work. Look at how the various speaker curves match the sub curve at their crossover frequencies.
> 
> 
> Now as you start tweaking, try to preserve that. You want to expand the sub to higher frequencies but to do that you may need to lower its bias level a bit. These are new controls so we're all learning here.
> 
> 
> Perhaps flat isn't the right answer in your setup.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I will play with ARC.

Yesterday I was using the old Avia A/V calibration dvd to test my system and I was getting contradicting results. i.e. I have a peak at 50 hz based on ARC and ARC has taking care of that for me but I was getting about 8 db dip around 50 hz while the ARC shows a smooth curve there.


Would you advise. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18883543
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I will play with ARC.
> 
> Yesterday I was using the old Avia A/V calibration dvd to test my system and I was getting contradicting results. i.e. I have a peak at 50 hz based on ARC and ARC has taking care of that for me but I was getting about 8 db dip around 50 hz while the ARC shows a smooth curve there.
> 
> 
> Would you advise. Thanks.



That Avia disc does not send out a discrete .1 channel as I recall. Bass is sent through the main speakers and gets to the sub via the crossover.


If 50Hz is close to the crossover, perhaps your sub Polarity/Phase is not set right yet so that you are getting cancellation between the sub and the main speaker.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18883690
> 
> 
> That Avia disc does not send out a discrete .1 channel as I recall. Bass is sent through the main speakers and gets to the sub via the crossover.
> 
> 
> If 50Hz is close to the crossover, perhaps your sub Polarity/Phase is not set right yet so that you are getting cancellation between the sub and the main speaker.
> 
> --Bob



The front panel of d2v shows Dolby Digital 5.1.

And also there are some test tones for LFE so I am guessing it is discrete .1.

Also when it sends the LFE signal to the sub the vollume drops way too low.


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18880379
> 
> 
> Send me a PM with the user name and password you used (thus confirming you have access) and I'll reply with the page URL.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I was having problems with my D2 about a month ago and I was e-mailing Andrew at Anthem and he gave me the info I just forgot what the e-mail address was. Another member gave me the info, so I'm all set.


Ken


----------



## jayray

Sitting in an internet cafe while you boys have sooooo much fun with the new ARC. Won't be able to try for a week so I'll just have to enjoy the Canadian Rockies







Nick told me to leave the freq. at 5K unless my ears said otherwise and this was in reference to 2.4.12

John


----------



## usxplong

Bob,

Would you take a look at my ARC and advise.


I followed your recommendations. Hopefully I did a good job.


Thanks,


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18884770
> 
> 
> Sitting in an internet cafe while you boys have sooooo much fun with the new ARC. Won't be able to try for a week so I'll just have to enjoy the Canadian Rockies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nick told me to leave the freq. at 5K unless my ears said otherwise and this was in reference to 2.4.12
> 
> John



Greetings,


Hang in there John! There will be plenty of time for fun when you get back..











Regards,


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


After installing 2.09b I have noticed that my AVM50v now takes longer to power up (by that I mean to the point where it triggers my amp and is ready to accept remote control functions).



Anyone with 2.09b notice this?


Regards,


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/18885182
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> After installing 2.09b I have noticed that my AVM50v now takes longer to power up (by that I mean to the point where it triggers my amp and is ready to accept remote control functions).
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone with 2.09b notice this?
> 
> 
> Regards,



Yep. I noticed the same thing on my D2v. Although I haven't put a stopwatch to it it definitely takes longer than any of the 2.07 or 2.08 versions I have used.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18884818
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Would you take a look at my ARC and advise.
> 
> 
> I followed your recommendations. Hopefully I did a good job.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



These charts are so small I can't really blow them up and still read them. I can't make out the numbers in your Targets window at all. But the charts themselves look fine with two exceptions. First the high frequencies are yuck, but we are ignoring that right now in this "test" version. But second, it looks like the mid range for your Center has a pretty significant range of residual error.


You've got such a wide region of weakness in Center either side of 1KHz that I suggest you double check the mid-range driver(s) are actually firing. Now ARC has corrected most of the deficit, the the residual error is still a problem because it spans lots of frequency. I would expect dialog to be affected for example.


By the way, even pulling back on the sub like this, you are still down only about 3dB at 120Hz (below the "basic volume level") so the top end of your LFE should be just fine. And of course all the steered bass will also be fine since your crossovers are low enough.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/18885182
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> After installing 2.09b I have noticed that my AVM50v now takes longer to power up (by that I mean to the point where it triggers my amp and is ready to accept remote control functions).
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone with 2.09b notice this?
> 
> 
> Regards,



Yes, I think they are trying to buy some more time to get their act together (initial HDMI handshakes for example). However it appears to be caching incoming IR commands, so initial Source selection doesn't seem to be affected.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
These charts are so small I can't really blow them up and still read them. I can't make out the numbers in your Targets window at all. But the charts themselves look fine with two exceptions. First the high frequencies are yuck, but we are ignoring that right now in this "test" version. But second, it looks like the mid range for your Center has a pretty significant range of residual error.


You've got such a wide region of weakness in Center either side of 1KHz that I suggest you double check the mid-range driver(s) are actually firing. Now ARC has corrected most of the deficit, the the residual error is still a problem because it spans lots of frequency. I would expect dialog to be affected for example.


By the way, even pulling back on the sub like this, you are still down only about 3dB at 120Hz (below the "basic volume level") so the top end of your LFE should be just fine. And of course all the steered bass will also be fine since your crossovers are low enough.

--Bob
Bob please help.

Thanks for your response. Attached is my ARC on document file.

My center is all firing fine. I have the Paradigm C5 sitting on the floor and has a huge drop on the mid range. ARC has taken care of it (supposetly).


But the issue is that I think the d2v is not processing my sub levels from ARC properly. If you look at my ARC, I have a big dip at 60 hz. ARC has taken care of it but when I play a 60 hz signal with stereo mode on d2v, I still get a huge drop at 60 hz. The level of signals at 50, 70 and 80 hz are all within 2-3 db range. But the 60 hz I get a huge drop of about 15db. I did adjust my phase and polarity. You see on my ARC that my xover is 80 hz not even close to 60 hz. Do you think something might be wrong with my firmware 2.08 I am using or there is something wrong with d2v?

I appreciate your help Bob.


Thanks,

 

ARC.doc 92k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18885538
> 
> 
> Bob please help.
> 
> Thanks for your response. Attached is my ARC on document file.
> 
> My center is all firing fine. I have the Paradigm C5 sitting on the floor and has a huge drop on the mid range. ARC has taken care of it (supposetly).
> 
> 
> But the issue is that I think the d2v is not processing my sub levels from ARC properly. If you look at my ARC, I have a big dip at 60 hz. ARC has taken care of it but when I play a 60 hz signal with stereo mode on d2v, I still get a huge drop at 60 hz. The level of signals at 50, 70 and 80 hz are all within 2-3 db range. But the 60 hz I get a huge drop of about 15db. I did adjust my phase and polarity. You see on my ARC that my xover is 80 hz not even close to 60 hz. Do you think something might be wrong with my firmware 2.08 I am using or there is something wrong with d2v?
> 
> I appreciate your help Bob.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



First of all the crossover is not a sudden transition. It happens over about an octave. So an 80Hz crossover is affecting the range 40-80Hz.


Second, your Music crossover is 60 Hz, not 80Hz. Are you sure you don't have Music configuration selected when doing this test?


The thing I find MOST fascinating is that the Room Gain value ARC found for your setup is *IDENTICAL* to the one it found for me to SIX decimal places! Coincidence? I don't think so. Something fishy going on there! I wonder how many other folks are getting the identical Room Gain from ARC V2.4.12?


My first reaction to your report is that you don't have Room EQ ON for the Source you are using while doing this test, or you are using ANALOG-DIRECT instead of ANALOG-DSP for analog audio input, and thus ARC processing can't happen.

--Bob


----------



## TboneofLA




> Quote:
> The thing I find MOST fascinating is that the Room Gain value ARC found for your setup is *IDENTICAL* to the one it found for me to SIX decimal places! Coincidence? I don't think so. Something fishy going on there! I wonder how many other folks are getting the identical Room Gain from ARC V2.4.12?



Bob,

ARC shows the same value for room gain with V2.4.12 for my setup, but at the same time I was getting it with V2.4 as well.


Is it not just the default amount of room gain ARC wants to leave in your curves? Since if removed you would be left with thin sounding bass.


----------



## ninja12

I have downloaded, installed, and ran ARC v2.4.12 for my D2 v1.47f. I notice that after every sweep for each listening position, I am hearing a little clicking sound. Is anyone else hearing that? I also heard the same clicking sound with v2.4.11. In all my years of running ARC, I have never had Room Gain. I always had to manually force Room Gain. Now, with v2.4.11 and v2.4.12, ARC is finding Room Gain. So, the two test versions of ARC are definitely providing improvements for the low end. I'm still trying to figure out just exactly what the Reference Level Offset is doing. I have notice that mine have been set to -1 every time I run ARC. As a result of that, my basic volume level is 74db instead of 75db. I'm not quite sure what it's doing; but, I am not going to bother with it since I don't understand it yet. So anyway, I have attached my charts for v2.4.12, and as always, please take a look and let me know what you think.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TboneofLA* /forum/post/18886086
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> ARC shows the same value for room gain with V2.4.12 for my setup, but at the same time I was getting it with V2.4 as well.
> 
> 
> Is it not just the default amount of room gain ARC wants to leave in your curves? Since if removed you would be left with thin sounding bass.



Nope, that's not how it is supposed to work. It is supposed to be detecting the ACTUAL Room Gain in your room so it can preserve that value (even as it attempts to remove other room response characteristics).


Now there may be only a handful of values that it tries, rather than a continuum, but this still looks fishy to me. USXPLONG's charts look enough different from mine that I would not expect ARC to settle on the same value for both of us.


ETA: NINJA12's post just above shows different Room Gain results for example.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18886088
> 
> 
> I have downloaded, installed, and ran ARC v2.4.12 for my D2 v1.47f. I notice that after every sweep for each listening position, I am hearing a little clicking sound. Is anyone else hearing that? I also heard the same clicking sound with v2.4.11. In all my years of running ARC, I have never had Room Gain. I always had to manually force Room Gain. Now, with v2.4.11 and v2.4.12, ARC is finding Room Gain. So, the two test versions of ARC are definitely providing improvements for the low end. I'm still trying to figure out just exactly what the Reference Level Offset is doing. I have notice that mine have been set to -1 every time I run ARC. As a result of that, my basic volume level is 74db instead of 75db. I'm not quite sure what it's doing; but, I am not going to bother with it since I don't understand it yet. So anyway, I have attached my charts for v2.4.12, and as always, please take a look and let me know what you think.



These look fine to me, again ignoring the weirdness in the high frequencies.


You've got a tiny amount of residual error in RS. You could try a raising or lowering the cutoff for the side surrounds just a bit to see if that cleans up without doing other damage. But the error is also small enough that you could just leave it as is.


ETA: I see they've added "AUX" to the LR/RR titles. I guess that's something for the new receiver products?

--Bob


----------



## TboneofLA




> Quote:
> Nope, that's not how it is supposed to work. It is supposed to be detecting the ACTUAL Room Gain in your room so it can preserve that value (even as it attempts to remove other room response characteristics).
> 
> 
> Now there may be only a handful of values that it tries, rather than a continuum, but this still looks fishy to me. USXPLONG's charts look enough different from mine that I would not expect ARC to settle on the same value for both of us.



Sorry Bob,

Let me clarify my point, I was trying to suggest that it is a default for room gain in the suggested solution given the amout of room gain it has measured.


I think you hit the nail on the head with the thought that there are only a few values it uses (or range of values 0-3.945749?) for the suggested solution. I'm guessing the value we are seeing is the maximum that ARC will use for the suggested solution. I would assume a max value is necessary to keep the levels in control through the 20-300Hz range.


Now that being said I do prefer a slightly higher amount of room gain, I have being experimenting with 5.0-5.5 for the last couple of months. It's just my preference for higher levels below 300Hz.


With regards to your charts and usxplong's, I think if you look at them from the standpoint of max gain detected and not shape they are fairly similar. I think the room gain in my charts will look even more pronounced hence my thought that the suggested gain ARC comes up with max's out at 3.945749.


I wonder if anyone at Anthem will expand on how room gain is treated.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18886677
> 
> 
> These look fine to me, again ignoring the weirdness in the high frequencies.
> 
> 
> You've got a tiny amount of residual error in RS. You could try a raising or lowering the cutoff for the side surrounds just a bit to see if that cleans up without doing other damage. But the error is also small enough that you could just leave it as is.
> 
> 
> ETA: I see they've added "AUX" to the LR/RR titles. I guess that's something for the new receiver products?
> 
> --Bob



Bob, as always, thanks for taking a look at my charts. I agree with your assessment of the RS; but, like you said, it's so small that's really not worth trying to do anything about it. So, I am just going to live with it. I was wondering if you heard the clicking sound at the end of the sweeps for a listening position? It's not that loud; but, I can hear. Also, I was wondering if you may be able to shed a little more detail on the Reference Level Offset? I'm confused why it sets it to -1 if the goal is to hit 75db. Like I said earlier, since I don't understand what it's doing, I'm not going to bother with it. Anyway, thanks again for your always valuable input.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18887212
> 
> 
> Bob, as always, thanks for taking a look at my charts. I agree with your assessment of the RS; but, like you said, it's so small that's really not worth trying to do anything about it. So, I am just going to live with it. I was wondering if you heard the clicking sound at the end of the sweeps for a listening position? It's not that loud; but, I can hear. Also, I was wondering if you may be able to shed a little more detail on the Reference Level Offset? I'm confused why it sets it to -1 if the goal is to hit 75db. Like I said earlier, since I don't understand what it's doing, I'm not going to bother with it. Anyway, thanks again for your always valuable input.



I don't understand the offset yet myself.


What you are hearing as a click is likely just a partial sweep as it starts up the next speaker. It mutes, switches to the next speaker, and removes mute, and in the latest version that seems to happen just at the high end of a sweep so you hear the very end of a sweep, which sounds like a squeak or click.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TboneofLA* /forum/post/18887068
> 
> 
> Sorry Bob,
> 
> Let me clarify my point, I was trying to suggest that it is a default for room gain in the suggested solution given the amout of room gain it has measured.
> 
> 
> I think you hit the nail on the head with the thought that there are only a few values it uses (or range of values 0-3.945749?) for the suggested solution. I'm guessing the value we are seeing is the maximum that ARC will use for the suggested solution. I would assume a max value is necessary to keep the levels in control through the 20-300Hz range.
> 
> 
> Now that being said I do prefer a slightly higher amount of room gain, I have being experimenting with 5.0-5.5 for the last couple of months. It's just my preference for higher levels below 300Hz.
> 
> 
> With regards to your charts and usxplong's, I think if you look at them from the standpoint of max gain detected and not shape they are fairly similar. I think the room gain in my charts will look even more pronounced hence my thought that the suggested gain ARC comes up with max's out at 3.945749.
> 
> 
> I wonder if anyone at Anthem will expand on how room gain is treated.



I suppose it could be a max, but that's still surprising. Room Gains in the range 2-6dB are normal. Artificially pulling it back to only 4dB if the room actually Measures higher makes *MORE* work for ARC to do. The idea is to preserve the "inherent" Room Gain in the room so that natural sounds in audio tracks which might also happen in the listening room (talking, doors closing, etc.) sound the same. I.e., the ambience of the room is preserved even as ARC tries to remove room response modes.

--Bob


----------



## TboneofLA

Thankfully ARC allows us to change the amount of room gain applied to the solution!


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Here are my latest results. Bob you may find the room gain measurements interesting. I am pretty pleased with the outcome.



Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/18887532
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Here are my latest results. Bob you may find the room gain measurements interesting. I am pretty pleased with the outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Yes these look quite good (ignoring the high frequency weirdness again). And yes there seems to be a trend forming here around this Room Gain value.


You got a very nice sub response using the Auto setting.


I presume you know your surrounds are weak in bass, but obviously the sub has that covered. It's interesting to see how ARC achieved that while also maintaining a proper crossover transition from LF/RF to the sub!


Did you leave your Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level unchanged from before? That would explain the basic volume level coming in closer to 70dB than 75dB (i.e., no more 6dB bug).

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18887255
> 
> 
> I don't understand the offset yet myself.
> 
> 
> What you are hearing as a click is likely just a partial sweep as it starts up the next speaker. It mutes, switches to the next speaker, and removes mute, and in the latest version that seems to happen just at the high end of a sweep so you hear the very end of a sweep, which sounds like a squeak or click.
> 
> --Bob



So, I did a little playing around with the Reference Level Offset and this is what I noticed.


1) When I changed it from -1 to 0, the "basic volume level" went from 74db to 75db. So, that tells me that the Reference Level Offset is connected to the "basic volume level" for all speakers including the sub.


2) I changed the crossover on my fronts from 75 to 60 which made the lower frequencies smoother.


3) I looked at the cross over between all of my speakers and my sub. At 60Hz, my speakers are outputting 74.5db. I looked at the Green Curve for my sub and saw that at 60Hz, the Green Curve is showing my sub outputting 75db which I think will allow a seamless transition from the speakers to the sub.


For now, I am going to listen to the changes I made and see how much I like it. I have done a little bit of listening now, and I do like what I am hearing so far.


Anyway, that's my observation for now. I will continue to try to play around more and understand more of what's going on with the Reference Level Offset and the other speakers.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18887787
> 
> 
> So, I did a little playing around with the Reference Level Offset and this is what I noticed.
> 
> 
> 1) When I changed it from -1 to 0, the "basic volume level" went from 74db to 75db. So, that tells me that the Reference Level Offset is connected to the "basic volume level" for all speakers including the sub.
> 
> 
> 2) I changed the crossover on my fronts from 75 to 60 which made the lower frequencies smoother.
> 
> 
> 3) I looked at the cross over between all of my speakers and my sub. At 60Hz, my speakers are outputting 74.5db. I looked at the Green Curve for my sub and saw that at 60Hz, the Green Curve is showing my sub outputting 75db which I think will allow a seamless transition from the speakers to the sub.
> 
> 
> For now, I am going to listen to the changes I made and see how much I like it. I have done a little bit of listening now, and I do like what I am hearing so far.
> 
> 
> Anyway, that's my observation for now. I will continue to try to play around more and understand more of what's going on with the Reference Level Offset and the other speakers.



Adding my updated charts.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18885905
> 
> 
> First of all the crossover is not a sudden transition. It happens over about an octave. So an 80Hz crossover is affecting the range 40-80Hz.
> 
> 
> Second, your Music crossover is 60 Hz, not 80Hz. Are you sure you don't have Music configuration selected when doing this test?
> 
> 
> The thing I find MOST fascinating is that the Room Gain value ARC found for your setup is *IDENTICAL* to the one it found for me to SIX decimal places! Coincidence? I don't think so. Something fishy going on there! I wonder how many other folks are getting the identical Room Gain from ARC V2.4.12?
> 
> 
> My first reaction to your report is that you don't have Room EQ ON for the Source you are using while doing this test, or you are using ANALOG-DIRECT instead of ANALOG-DSP for analog audio input, and thus ARC processing can't happen.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.

I used Movie configuration and the Room Eq is ON. I have Optical connection from my DVD player to d2v. Can you eleborate some possibilities.


----------



## usxplong

Bob,

I found another problem. I have the Paradigm's signature C5 for center located on the floor and I have tilted the speaker up towards the listening position. Eventhogh I hear sound comming from my center's mid range but when I located the Mic lower to the floor level and closer to the center speaker and run ARC's speaker location function, ARC gave me the same drop in the mid range freqencies.

Is it possible that something is wrong with my mid range eventhough I get sound from mid range drivers?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18888109
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I found another problem. I have the Paradigm's signature C5 for center located on the floor and I have tilted the speaker up towards the listening position. Eventhogh I hear sound comming from my center's mid range but when I located the Mic lower to the floor level and closer to the center speaker and run ARC's speaker location function, ARC gave me the same drop in the mid range freqencies.
> 
> Is it possible that something is wrong with my mid range eventhough I get sound from mid range drivers?



ARC - showed me my right front speaker - low-end had a problem.

I rebuilt both the Right and Left Front Low-freq speakers.


----------



## TboneofLA




> Quote:
> I suppose it could be a max, but that's still surprising. Room Gains in the range 2-6dB are normal. Artificially pulling it back to only 4dB if the room actually Measures higher makes *MORE* work for ARC to do. The idea is to preserve the "inherent" Room Gain in the room so that natural sounds in audio tracks which might also happen in the listening room (talking, doors closing, etc.) sound the same. I.e., the ambience of the room is preserved even as ARC tries to remove room response modes.



I hear what you're saying, it makes sense that ARC would be working harder to correct to the target if it used a room gain of 4dB but the actual room gain was closer to 6dB. However when I utilize higher room gain settings the solution ARC produces doesn't always result in a smoother curve.


Anthem may have it set at 3.95 because that is subjectly where most people would be happy with it. As I mentioned earlier, I prefer more room gain in the solution. I'd like to hear what others find better sounding; the default produced by ARC or a custom setting?


----------



## usxplong

OK, I turned in my center speaker to my dealer. They are going to check the mid range drivers and the low vollume problem. I hope it is just a wiring connection or wrong cross-over connection problem. Otherwise I have to wait about 10 working days to receive the parts from Paradigm and fix the problem.


----------



## dryeye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18888632
> 
> 
> OK, I turned in my center speaker to my dealer. They are going to check the mid range drivers and the low vollume problem. I hope it is just a wiring connection or wrong cross-over connection problem. Otherwise I have to wait about 10 working days to receive the parts from Paradigm and fix the problem.



Looking at your latest ARC results and hearing you have the C5 on the floor explains it all. No need to return the speaker to the dealer.... get it off the damn floor! My C5 sits on a stand designed for it (j-18c) which places the bottom of the speaker about 18 inches above the floor and my results look fine.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dryeye* /forum/post/18888842
> 
> 
> Looking at your latest ARC results and hearing you have the C5 on the floor explains it all. No need to return the speaker to the dealer.... get it off the damn floor! My C5 sits on a stand designed for it (j-18c) which places the bottom of the speaker about 18 inches above the floor and my results look fine.



Thanks dryeye for responding.

I used the new ARC 2.4.12 new functtion which is called QUICK MEASURE to test my center. With this new ARC function you can quickly see the result of ARC without doing the whole process. So you can relocate your speaker for best location. I moved the mic low and closer to the C5 and still got the same results for the mid range. That told me that something is probably not right with the mid range drivers. I was getting sound from mid range drivers but the vollume was way down. Now I have to wait and see what the dealer finds out. My remaining problem is that either ARC or my d2v is not processing the ARC results properly. I have a big dip at 60 hz (just like yours). ARC did fix it completely but when I play a 60hz signal I still get a huge drop about 15db at 60 hz. I don't know why. I asked Bob but he hasn't responded yet.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

On your Center, some speakers need to be raised up to produce good bass, if not the reflection off the surface below them self-cancels against the main output wavefront. Follow the manufacturer's installation recommendations.


On your sub, I seriously doubt you have a processor problem. The hardware just doesn't screw up like that. MUCH more likely is that there is a simple settings mistake in your audio chain which is confusing you, but you have refuted the most obvious possibilities.


By the way, I don't trust the Avia disc for audio tests.


How did you validate you sub Phase? This remains a serious candidate for all your sub issues.


When doing your 60hz test, try turning Room EQ Off and On to confirm ARC Processing really is happening.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18888881
> 
> 
> Thanks dryeye for responding.
> 
> I used the new ARC 2.4.12 new functtion which is called QUICK MEASURE to test my center. With this new ARC function you can quickly see the result of ARC without doing the whole process. So you can relocate your speaker for best location. I moved the mic low and closer to the C5 and still got the same results for the mid range. That told me that something is probably not right with the mid range drivers. I was getting sound from mid range drivers but the vollume was way down. Now I have to wait and see what the dealer finds out. My remaining problem is that either ARC or my d2v is not processing the ARC results properly. I have a big dip at 60 hz (just like yours). ARC did fix it completely but when I play a 60hz signal I still get a huge drop about 15db at 60 hz. I don't know why. I asked Bob but he hasn't responded yet.



I have a CC-690 and it is off the floor pointing up approx. 4 in. in the back and 6 in. in the front and no problem. Paradigm does recommend they be off the floor. My Front speakers were close to the front wall and I got lousy results in the same freq. you are now getting and once moved away from the wall, the results were excellent.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The latest PS3 firmware update (V3.40) adds the ability to disable Deep Color video output.


With the original D2 and AVM 50 there can be no Deep Color video input and the PS3 will correctly determine this during the HDMI handshake.


With the D2v and AVM 50v, the PS3 will use 36 bit Deep Color in its default, Automatic setting. I don't know of any reports of problems with that presuming you are using an HDMI cable rated for High Speed HDMI V1.3 or later. But if you do run into a problem you can use the new Off setting in the PS3 to force "normal" 24 bit output instead. Again a problem with Deep Color from the PS3 usually means you need to upgrade your HDMI cable to one designed and tested to handle the higher bandwidth.

--Bob


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Here are my latest results. Bob you may find the room gain measurements interesting. I am pretty pleased with the outcome.
> 
> 
> Regards,



Hi Ralph,


What differences are you listening? I am waiting to fully break in my A21 to so...


----------



## usxplong

Thank you all for helping me.

I adjusted my ARC without center and boom I got good results at 60hz with 1-2db from 50hz and 70hz. But the difference between crossover (80hz) and 70hz is about 9db. I think I can take care of that with phase and polarity adjustments I will do later.

Somehow it was the center creating the problem. It doesn't make sense to me but maybe one of guys can figure it out.


----------



## ninja12

Since I never started getting Room Gain until ARC v2.4.11 and v2.4.12, I decided to play around with it to see how high I could go. I took the Room Gain, for Movie, up to 5.578320 from 2.578320 which is what ARC came up with. I decided to leave the Room Gain, for Music, to 1.336950 which is what ARC came up with. So, what I noticed was that the subwoofer curves smoothed out pretty nicely at 5.578320. At the lower Room Gain, the subwoofer curves were not as smooth. The curves for my other speakers still look pretty good to me with the 5.578320 Room Gain. I don't know if I pushed it to high, so now, I am going to listen and see if my ears agree with what I did.


----------



## jamulian

I have audio, but video is very poor and no color. I have red, whit, and yellow connectors. The red and white are in aux (input) and yellow is in component. The source is set to component 1.


Do I have the right settings?


Thanks.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/18892216
> 
> 
> I have audio, but video is very poor and no color. I have red, whit, and yellow connectors. The red and white are in aux (input) and yellow is in component. The source is set to component 1.
> 
> 
> Do I have the right settings?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Red, white and yellow are for analog sound and video at the lowest video and sound resolution. I'm not familiar with what the Wii can output, but if it has component, RED, GREEN and BLUE wires for video, hook that up for video and red and white analog to analog in for the Anthem. This will give good video and not so good sound. If the Wii has hdmi, use that into the Anthem to get the best sound and video.

John

I have looked up the Wii and it appears to only have composite hookup standard. I think you can purchase an hdmi cable for it to do what I said above.


----------



## tranle

For the Wii hook up, you can get a cable that will give component out + audio which is better than the yellow composite out. It is made by Nyko and it cost around ~ $20 at most.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/18892216
> 
> 
> I have audio, but video is very poor and no color. I have red, whit, and yellow connectors. The red and white are in aux (input) and yellow is in component. The source is set to component 1.
> 
> 
> Do I have the right settings?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



The Yellow cable is "composite" video, not "component". It is the next to worst form of video as regards quality, but the main reason for your poor video is that you have it plugged into the wrong type of input.


The video processor in the Anthem will not process Composite video. It is only "pass through" to the Composite video output. I.e., you will get no output on the Main HDMI or Component video output jacks.


One way to do better is to go to Radio Shack or wherever and get a Composite to S-video converter, then use an S-video input (which WILL be processed by the Anthem, although the video still won't look all that great). But a better solution would be to do as described in the post above and get the Wii cable that lets you use real Component output from the Wii. Component video connections involve 3 cables. Stereo audio is 2 additional cables (as you have now -- the Red and White).


See Section 2.1 of the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## jamulian

Thanks for all of the input.

I'll look into a component cable or composite to s-video.

Thanks.


----------



## jamulian

Picked up a component cable today and it worked great for the wii.

Thanks


----------



## Warren460

Hi guys, What software should I use to test polarity and phase of my two subs?


Thanks, this arc stuff and my d2v are pretty new to me.


Warren


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You select sub Polarity and adjust sub Phase with the aid of a test noise from a calibration disc. Different discs offer different takes on this but the idea is to play a test noise of a mix of bass frequencies into the Left Front speaker so that some of the bass is also played by the sub due to bass steering (the crossover). You adjust to minimize the cancellation that occurs because LF and the sub are playing the same thing.


With 2 subs you power one at a time and adjust each separately. For some guidance on this see the post links found in the Setup section in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## JimP

Bob,


So ARC doesn't determine distances for subwoofers or is it that it'll only do one sub and you have to manually get the other one in phase?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/18898525
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> So ARC doesn't determine distances for subwoofers or is it that it'll only do one sub and you have to manually get the other one in phase?



ARC doesn't determine the distances for any speakers. These have to be measured manually and input inot the processor setup.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As stated, ARC doesn't attempt to calculate speaker distances for you. (There's significant potential for inaccuracy if it were to try.)


There are several things you need to do manually even when using ARC.


You must specify your side and rear surround speakers (if you have them) as either Direct radiating or Dipole. You must enter the speaker distances for all, non-Dipole speakers. And you must adjust Polarity/Phase for your subwoofer(s). If you have more than one subwoofer you must do that using controls on the subs themselves. (The controls within the Anthem for this do not distinguish between different subs.)

*ETA: And if you have any subs at all you must manally specify your Sub configuration as "1 Sub" even if you actually have MORE than 1 subwoofer. The "1 Sub" setting is necessary for proper function of ARC.* (The 1 Sub v.s 2 Subs setting adjusts how the subwoofer volume trims are interpreted. The value ARC Uploads assumes 1 Sub is set. Trying to use the Super Sub settings will also screw up ARC.)


I also recommend you set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and adjust the volume knob on your sub(s) prior to doing the ARC Measurement.


ARC will determine (and Upload) speaker volume trims, crossovers, and room correction parameters. ARC will also Upload the speaker layout you have told it to use for Movie and Music (e.g., which speakers to include for each).


A number of audio settings are ignored if you use ARC -- both during Measurement and in normal user afterwards (for Sources with Room EQ = ON). These would include Room Resonance Filter, Center EQ, THX Ultra 2 Subwoofer, Subwoofer Boundary Gain Compensation, and LFE Bypass -- all of which are handled in a more sophisticated way by ARC itself. So it does not matter what settings you have for these presuming you allow ARC to function (have Room EQ = ON) for all your Sources.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18898350
> 
> 
> You select sub Polarity and adjust sub Phase with the aid of a test noise from a calibration disc. Different discs offer different takes on this but the idea is to play a test noise of a mix of bass frequencies into the Left Front speaker so that some of the bass is also played by the sub due to bass steering (the crossover). You adjust to minimize the cancellation that occurs because LF and the sub are playing the same thing.
> 
> 
> With 2 subs you power one at a time and adjust each separately. For some guidance on this see the post links found in the Setup section in the first post of this thread.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Good answer! But to clarify for those of us with 2 subs.... we should set the phase /polarity settings in the Anthem screen to zero and instead use each sub-woofers phase & polarity knobs to phase align with the LF speaker, right?


Where then, do i need to move the subs for optimal placement? Is it before or after the phase alignment process?


Thanks,

David


----------



## jayray

Bob,

Just curious after you've tried the beta ARC now for a few days, what you think are the differences. Still a few days from trying it myself









thanks,

John


----------



## Warren460

my question needs clarification


what test software is generally used to generate the test tones to set up the phase and polarity of the subs


thanks warren


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warren460* /forum/post/18902493
> 
> 
> my question needs clarification
> 
> 
> what test software is generally used to generate the test tones to set up the phase and polarity of the subs
> 
> 
> thanks warren



I dont see much of a problem with sub polarity as most of them are powered and are set right(positive polarity) out of the factory.


In the case of a phase switch or a variable phase knob. Your best bet is the crossover frequency tone set by ARC. Look at your setup menu and go to the speaker configuration. If ARC sets it at 60hz, then this is the tone you will use to set your phase properly. You can use a SPL or real time analyzer to assist in your evaluation where to dial your phase control knob or switch.

These tones are available on test disc mentioned before. I personally use an audio test tone generator.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18902616
> 
> 
> I dont see much of a problem with sub polarity as most of them are powered and are set right(positive polarity) out of the factory.
> 
> 
> In the case of a phase switch or a variable phase knob. Your best bet is the crossover frequency tone set by ARC. Look at your setup menu and go to the speaker configuration. If ARC sets it at 60hz, then this is the tone you will use to set your phase properly. You can use a SPL or real time analyzer to assist in your evaluation where to dial your phase control knob or switch.
> 
> These tones are available on test disc mentioned before. I personally use an audio test tone generator.



Is this 60Hz frequency subwoofer location dependent? i.e what do you do first? Do you first find the optimum location for your sub and then phase-align with the LF speaker or is the sub's location irrelevant? I'd think the former would be the way to go.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18902106
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Just curious after you've tried the beta ARC now for a few days, what you think are the differences. Still a few days from trying it myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> John



I'm not Bob obviously. I have had ARC 2.4.12 installed and listening to it for a couple of days. The first couple of things that I noticed is that the curves for the highs looks strange meaning they same to drop off some what. The second thing is that I now have room gain which I never use to get. ARC is finding 2.5 in room gain for me now. I have been playing around with the room gain and found out that I can push it up to 5.5 and the curves still look good. As a matter of fact, the curve for my subwoofer looks better with the 5.5 room gain than it does with the 2.5 room gain. I thought that I might have pushed the room gain too high; but, so far, my ears are telling me that I didn't. Even though the highs have dropped off some, the overall sound is still very good, and of course, the LFE does have more impact which is due to the room gain I'm pretty sure. Overall, I am pleased with the sound that I am getting. However, it's still early, and I have not done any real critical listening yet. I plan to do that this weekend.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18901977
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Good answer! But to clarify for those of us with 2 subs.... we should set the phase /polarity settings in the Anthem screen to zero and instead use each sub-woofers phase & polarity knobs to phase align with the LF speaker, right?
> 
> 
> Where then, do i need to move the subs for optimal placement? Is it before or after the phase alignment process?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



Adjust Polarity and Phase AFTER positioning the sub(s), and re-check it each time you move the subs even a little bit -- even inches matter at these frequencies. Phase is affected by the timing delay produced by distance settings as well. So set distance BEFORE trying to adjust Phase. Also, since what you are listening for is subtle, it is best to have the sub and main speakers matched in volume before attempting Phase adjustment. Of course if you've already run ARC that's done, but if not, do it manually first.


NOTE: If you have only one sub, you can adjust Polarity/Phase AFTER setting up ARC. The ARC solution is not affected since it never hears the sub playing at the same time as any main speakers. The ARC solution will just sound better after you get Phase right. But if you have MORE than one sub you must set Polarity/Phase for each of them BEFORE Measuring for ARC as ARC will hear all of your subs playing together in combo and thus will hear any cancellation between them due to incorrect Polarity/Phase.


Polarity is like reversing the wires to the sub -- it inverts the direction of cone travel across the entire frequency range. Phase operates in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies only, because making an adjustable Phase control that operates over the entire bass frequency range is too expensive.


Clearly Phase is most important when matching a sub to the main speakers since the crossover frequencies is just where they end up playing the same content at the same time. But Polarity becomes a bigger deal if you have more than one sub since they will play the same content across their entire frequency range.


Since Polarity and Phase affect different frequencies it is NOT true that flipping Polarity is the same thing as swinging Phase 180 degrees around. So it is often wise to find the "best" Phase with each of the two Polarity settings (the Phase result will likely be different for each Polarity) and then pick between those two combos according to which seems to be working best.


As a Rule of Thumb, you use "normal" Polarity for a sub in the front of the room and "inverted" Polarity for a sub at the rear of the room. Just think of what happens to the direction of cone travel when you put the sub at the rear and thus turn it around 180 degrees to face into the listening area. The idea of course is to get the sub cone moving in the same direction as the main speaker cones so that the wave fronts don't cancel.


Since Phase is a function of distance, you can NOT get Phase "perfect" between the sub and every main speaker. But that's OK because the effect is subtle, meaning there's a fairly wide range of "good enough" Phase settings. So the Rule of Thumb is to use the Left Front speaker as the surrogate for all your main speakers. I.e., match the sub against LF. If you have more than one sub, power one at a time and match each in turn against LF. When each sub is in proper Phase with LF, then they are also in proper phase with each other. With more than one sub, it is usually best to use the Rule of Thumb for Polarity setting (i.e., front or back of room positioning).


With more than one sub you must use controls on each sub itself to adjust Polarity/Phase. In the Anthem, use the normal Polarity setting and leave Phase at zero.


Also adjust the volume knob separately on each sub keeping mind the volumes add (logarithmically). For example, with two subs, adjust each alone to produce roughly 72dB SPL and that will give you roughly 75dB SPL when they are played together. ARC will then hear them playing together and determine any necessary final volume trim. How the audio adds is dependent on details of room placement, but this is close enough for preliminary setup, and ARC will take it from there.


I use the audio tracks on "DVE HD Basics" Blu-Ray and "AIX Audio Calibration" Blu-Ray for audio setup including sub Polarity/Phase testing. I also have the audio test SD-DVD from the Avia Pro set (not to be confused with the original Avia), but that's not being sold any more.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18903189
> 
> 
> I'm not Bob obviously. I have had ARC 2.4.12 installed and listening to it for a couple of days. The first couple of things that I noticed is that the curves for the highs looks strange meaning they same to drop off some what. The second thing is that I now have room gain which I never use to get. ARC is finding 2.5 in room gain for me now. I have been playing around with the room gain and found out that I can push it up to 5.5 and the curves still look good. As a matter of fact, the curve for my subwoofer looks better with the 5.5 room gain than it does with the 2.5 room gain. I thought that I might have pushed the room gain too high; but, so far, my ears are telling me that I didn't. Even though the highs have dropped off some, the overall sound is still very good, and of course, the LFE does have more impact which is due to the room gain I'm pretty sure. Overall, I am pleased with the sound that I am getting. However, it's still early, and I have not done any real critical listening yet. I plan to do that this weekend.



I got some weird high end results with an old set of measurements as well. I won't be able to process my latest measurements for a few days. I'm interested in any LFE diff without changing anything. Interesting that the room gain gave you a better sub curve.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18903189
> 
> 
> I'm not Bob obviously. I have had ARC 2.4.12 installed and listening to it for a couple of days. The first couple of things that I noticed is that the curves for the highs looks strange meaning they same to drop off some what. The second thing is that I now have room gain which I never use to get. ARC is finding 2.5 in room gain for me now. I have been playing around with the room gain and found out that I can push it up to 5.5 and the curves still look good. As a matter of fact, the curve for my subwoofer looks better with the 5.5 room gain than it does with the 2.5 room gain. I thought that I might have pushed the room gain too high; but, so far, my ears are telling me that I didn't. Even though the highs have dropped off some, the overall sound is still very good, and of course, the LFE does have more impact which is due to the room gain I'm pretty sure. Overall, I am pleased with the sound that I am getting. However, it's still early, and I have not done any real critical listening yet. I plan to do that this weekend.




I think you are saying the Arc charts show a drop off in the highs but are you also saying you can actually hear a loss of highs ?

Have you tried raising the ARC high frequency test from 5000 to a higher number ?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18903719
> 
> 
> I got some weird high end results with an old set of measurements as well. I won't be able to process my latest measurements for a few days. I'm interested in any LFE diff without changing anything. Interesting that the room gain gave you a better sub curve.
> 
> John



I was very surprised too to see that the higher room gain caused by subwoofer curve to smooth out; but, it's still beta so anything is possible at this point.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/18905088
> 
> 
> I think you are saying the Arc charts show a drop off in the highs but are you also saying you can actually hear a loss of highs ?
> 
> Have you tried extended the the ARC high frequency test from 5000 to a higher number ?



No, i'm not hearing a drop off in the highs. The highs that I am use to hearing is still there. You know, I wonder if they just put a stop to any correction above 5K because after that they really begin to drop. It's not a slamming drop; but, I do notice a slight, according to the charts, dip in the highs. The chart is telling me one thing; but, my ears are telling me something different. I'm enjoying what I am hearing.


----------



## glennQNYC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A number of audio settings are ignored if you use ARC -- both during Measurement and in normal user afterwards (for Sources with Room EQ = ON). These would include Room Resonance Filter, Center EQ, THX Ultra 2 Subwoofer, Subwoofer Boundary Gain Compensation, and LFE Bypass -- all of which are handled in a more sophisticated way by ARC itself. So it does not matter what settings you have for these presuming you allow ARC to function (have Room EQ = ON) for all your Sources.
> 
> --Bob



Good tip Bob! Thanks.


----------



## Nuport

Anyone have any ideas where I can find a windows xp service pack 2 disc. I need it to run the arc software on my Mac. Much appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't think XP is available as a separate retail item any more. Can't you use Windows 7?

--Bob


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nuport* /forum/post/18909969
> 
> 
> Anyone have any ideas where I can find a windows xp service pack 2 disc. I need it to run the arc software on my Mac. Much appreciated.



On Microsoft site. They are a lot of internet based retailers, do a google.


----------



## jayray

Got home today and processed my last measurement with ARC 2.4.12. The sound has so far been very impressive. LFE is a little more noticeable at low freq. I used WOTW, BD and the lightning strikes had more low end this time. High frequencies are still there and razor sharp. I tested at least 10 BDs, and every one of them sounded great. My final freq. correction was at 9000 Hz. This seemed to give me the best curves. They are below. I'll probably take some new measurements with 2.4.12 tomorrow.

John


----------



## jayray

Forgot the Target window.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Try a 5KHz solution and compare. I don't trust the Measured data between 5KHz and 9KHz.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Here are the 5000k.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18903315
> 
> 
> Adjust Polarity and Phase AFTER positioning the sub(s), and re-check it each time you move the subs even a little bit -- even inches matter at these frequencies. Phase is affected by the timing delay produced by distance settings as well. So set distance BEFORE trying to adjust Phase. Also, since what you are listening for is subtle, it is best to have the sub and main speakers matched in volume before attempting Phase adjustment. Of course if you've already run ARC that's done, but if not, do it manually first.
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Thanks for the detailed and insightful answer. So to summarize:


1. Level match all speakers to say 75dB with dual subs individually volume tuned to 72dB.


2. Move each sub individually to get the best low frequency response in the room with the new tools in the newest beta versions of ARC (Hopefully the finally arrangement would be asthetically pleasing).


3. Manually phase and polarity match each sub to the LF speaker using its knobs in the back of the sub, maybe using said new tools on ARC beta.


4. Listen and enjoy ???


Thanks,

David


----------



## slots1

I think I am staying with my 2.3 on my xp laptop... Seems to many issues with arc 2.4.12


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18912848
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the detailed and insightful answer. So to summarize:
> 
> 
> 1. Level match all speakers to say 75dB with dual subs individually volume tuned to 72dB.
> 
> 
> 2. Move each sub individually to get the best low frequency response in the room with the new tools in the newest beta versions of ARC (Hopefully the finally arrangement would be asthetically pleasing).
> 
> 
> 3. Manually phase and polarity match each sub to the LF speaker using its knobs in the back of the sub, maybe using said new tools on ARC beta.
> 
> 
> 4. Listen and enjoy ???
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



With regards to item 3, you cannot use the new quick measure tool provided by ARC at it measures individual speakers. Phase response is the interaction of the crossover frequency on your LF and subwoofer. Both speakers should be playing the crossover freq. tone or noise for you to adjust the phase knob correctly.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18912767
> 
> 
> Here are the 5000k.



I stayed at 5K also. I also pushed my room gain up to 5.5....., and the sub curve was a little smoother. I was concerned that i pushed it up to high; but, my ears are telling me that I didn't. I'm enjoying what I am hearing so far. Here's the link to my latest post with my latest measurements.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post18891961 


earlier measurements:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post18887847 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post18886088


----------



## gonzalc3

Bob,


With ARC 2.4.12, which presumably no longer has the test level bug, do you leave the test level to zero as well as the speaker levels before running ARC?

Or do you set all speaker levels to zero, and then with the spl meter you adjust the test level to get the 75 dbs and then run the ARC?

I did the latter and my graphs show the overall level at around 70 dbs, similar to Ralph's...


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/18913906
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> With ARC 2.4.12, which presumably no longer has the test level bug, do you leave the test level to zero as well as the speaker levels before running ARC?
> 
> Or do you set all speaker levels to zero, and then with the spl meter you adjust the test level to get the 75 dbs and then run the ARC?
> 
> I did the latter and my graphs show the overall level at around 70 dbs, similar to Ralph's...



1. Zero out all speaker levels (don't really have to do this; but, I do just to make sure)

2. Set test level to manual

3. Scroll down to LF and the test tone should be coming through your LF

4. Adjust the test tone volume until your SPL is reading 75db

5. Now, scroll down to the sub

6. Leave the sub volume level to 0 in the level calibration menu

7. Adjust the volume, using the sub's volume knob, until the SPL reads 75db or close to 75db.

8. Now run ARC


Now, if you did that and ran ARC and ARC is showing 70db, I would increase the test volume 5db and run ARC again.


I hope this helps.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Not quite:


1) Zero out all lines in Setup > Level Calibration. You must zero at least the LF line and the subwoofer lines (both of them) for the following to work as LF and Test Level interact and the sub volume adjustment gets made using the sub volume knob. But it is easier to just remember to zero ALL the lines first. The ARC Upload will put proper values back into them.


2) Set Test Mode to Manual and scroll down one line to Test Level. Noise will be coming from the LF speaker. NOTE: You want to be on the TEST LEVEL line and not on the LF line. The LF line must be 0dB while you are doing this.


3) Adjust Test Level to yield 75dB SPL measured at ARC mic position #1. SPL meter set to "C" weighting and "Slow" response, pointing straight up at seated ear height, and held at arm's length and away from reflective surfaces like walls or seat backs.


4) Now scroll down to either subwoofer line. Noise will be coming from the subwoofer. Leave the subwoofer line at 0dB and use the volume knob on the sub itself to adjust its output. With one sub, shoot for 75dB SPL measured just as above. With more than one sub, power one at a time and separately adjust them to produce the same output level -- a lower level since their output will add when they are played together. For 2 subs, typically you will shoot for 72dB SPL from each played by itself.


5) Now Back out of Level Calibration and go do your ARC Measurement.


NOTE 1: The ARC Upload doesn't change the Test Level line, and of course it doesn't change your sub volume knob. So you only have to do the above once unless you change something in your setup that invalidates it.


NOTE 2: Expect small volume trims to be Uploaded by ARC for all speakers. In particular, even LF and the sub lines may be loaded with non-zero values. This is normal. As long as all your volume trims are within a few dB either side of 0dB after the ARC Upload, you are good to go.


NOTE 3: Do NOT expect an exact match from all speakers using the Level Calibration test tones after the ARC Upload. ARC uses a wider frequency range to pick the target level and picks a level that anticipates Room Correction processing is also in effect (which is not the case when you play the Level Calibration test tones). Trust the values that ARC Uploaded.


NOTE 4: Ballpark settings are close enough for the preliminary 75dB SPL targets above. ARC will Upload any adjustments it needs.


NOTE 5: Using an SPL meter can be a bit tricky if you are not careful how you hold it or which range level you set it to. For the Radio Shack digital SPL meter, use the 70dB range when targeting 75dB SPL so that the targeted value is in the middle of the range. 3 or 4dB errors are normal if you use the next range up or down from that, or if you point the meter at the speaker, or etc. Again don't get too hung up on the precision of the SPL Measurement as ARC will adjust things. If you find your ARC solution is a few dB too low or too high (not precisely 75dB) it is usually best to just leave it -- adjust the Main volume knob while listening. But you can also tweak Test Level up or down as needed prior to your next Measurement pass. The 75dB target for the basic volume level of ARC's solution is a guideline, not a rule.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18912848
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the detailed and insightful answer. So to summarize:
> 
> 
> 1. Level match all speakers to say 75dB with dual subs individually volume tuned to 72dB.
> 
> 
> 2. Move each sub individually to get the best low frequency response in the room with the new tools in the newest beta versions of ARC (Hopefully the finally arrangement would be asthetically pleasing).
> 
> 
> 3. Manually phase and polarity match each sub to the LF speaker using its knobs in the back of the sub, maybe using said new tools on ARC beta.
> 
> 
> 4. Listen and enjoy ???
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



Recheck the sub volume levels after you pick their final positions. Correct the speaker distance as well. If you have more than one sub, use the average distance for them. Then adjust Polarity/Phase.


There are no tools in ARC that you can use to help adjust Polarity and Phase for your subs as ARC's test tones never play a main speaker at the same time as a sub. Use a test tone from a calibration disc that plays mixed bass frequencies into LF (meaning that some will also come out on the sub).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18912767
> 
> 
> Here are the 5000k.



Since the differences in your 5KHz solution are only apparent in the surround speakers you will have to listen carefully to surround sound content to see if the 9KHz solution is in fact screwing up due to bad Measured data above 5KHz (i.e., correcting for an error that is not "real").


A multi-channel music disc (SACD or Blu-Ray) will likely be your best test as surround tracks in movies often have limited high (and low) frequencies in the surround channels. Or play the music during the closing credits of a Blu-Ray movie.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

An important reminder to folks: *If you experiment with the new Quick View feature in "test" ARC V2.4.12, remember that you MUST restore your Setup menu settings afterwards as Quick View, just like an ARC Measurement pass, starts off by resetting a bunch of settings in there.*


One easy way to do this, since you've already got the cable hooked up, is to just re-Upload your latest ARC results.


Of course if you are already going to do a full ARC pass after playing with Quick View, then the Upload at the end of that will work just as well. No need to restore things prior to the Measurement pass.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18914184
> 
> 
> Not quite:
> 
> 
> 1) Zero out all lines in Setup > Level Calibration. You must zero at least the LF line and the subwoofer lines (both of them) for the following to work as LF and Test Level interact and the sub volume adjustment gets made using the sub volume knob. But it is easier to just remember to zero ALL the lines first. The ARC Upload will put proper values back into them.
> 
> 
> 2) Set Test Mode to Manual and scroll down one line to Test Level. Noise will be coming from the LF speaker. NOTE: You want to be on the TEST LEVEL line and not on the LF line. The LF line must be 0dB while you are doing this.
> 
> 
> 3) Adjust Test Level to yield 75dB SPL measured at ARC mic position #1. SPL meter set to "C" weighting and "Slow" response, pointing straight up at seated ear height, and held at arm's length and away from reflective surfaces like walls or seat backs.
> 
> 
> 4) Now scroll down to either subwoofer line. Noise will be coming from the subwoofer. Leave the subwoofer line at 0dB and use the volume knob on the sub itself to adjust its output. With one sub, shoot for 75dB SPL measured just as above. With more than one sub, power one at a time and separately adjust them to produce the same output level -- a lower level since their output will add when they are played together. For 2 subs, typically you will shoot for 72dB SPL from each played by itself.
> 
> 
> 5) Now Back out of Level Calibration and go do your ARC Measurement.
> 
> 
> NOTE 1: The ARC Upload doesn't change the Test Level line, and of course it doesn't change your sub volume knob. So you only have to do the above once unless you change something in your setup that invalidates it.
> 
> 
> NOTE 2: Expect small volume trims to be Uploaded by ARC for all speakers. In particular, even LF and the sub lines may be loaded with non-zero values. This is normal. As long as all your volume trims are within a few dB either side of 0dB after the ARC Upload, you are good to go.
> 
> 
> NOTE 3: Do NOT expect an exact match from all speakers using the Level Calibration test tones after the ARC Upload. ARC uses a wider frequency range to pick the target level and picks a level that anticipates Room Correction processing is also in effect (which is not the case when you play the Level Calibration test tones). Trust the values that ARC Uploaded.
> 
> 
> NOTE 4: Ballpark settings are close enough for the preliminary 75dB SPL targets above. ARC will Upload any adjustments it needs.
> 
> 
> NOTE 5: Using an SPL meter can be a bit tricky if you are not careful how you hold it or which range level you set it to. For the Radio Shack digital SPL meter, use the 70dB range when targeting 75dB SPL so that the targeted value is in the middle of the range. 3 or 4dB errors are normal if you use the next range up or down from that, or if you point the meter at the speaker, or etc. Again don't get too hung up on the precision of the SPL Measurement as ARC will adjust things. If you find your ARC solution is a few dB too low or too high (not precisely 75dB) it is usually best to just leave it -- adjust the Main volume knob while listening. But you can also tweak Test Level up or down as needed prior to your next Measurement pass. The 75dB target for the basic volume level of ARC's solution is a guideline, not a rule.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I was testing you to see if you would catch my error. You did. You pass.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18914322
> 
> 
> Bob, I was testing you to see if you would catch my error. You did. You pass.



Seriously. I was trying to remember the steps off the top of my head since I am not at home. I don't want anyone to think that I would post false and/or misleading info. But, as always, we have Bob to correct us when we are wrong. So, thanks again for correcting me Bob.


----------



## jayray

I just did a new measurement with 2.4.12 and the results look almost identical to my previous one. Comparing 5K and 9K, there is almost no diff in my curves. I will listen to this version more today.

John


Have done some more testing and surrounds sound the same regardless of the 5k or 9K freq. correction. I've noticed better correction with my centre and front right speaker. Sub seems to go lower with a smoother transition. So far very good. Will stick with it for now.


----------



## ninja12

Except for me, has anyone else been playing around with the Reference Level Offset and other options in ARC v2.4.12?


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18914184
> 
> 
> Not quite:
> 
> 
> 1) Zero out all lines in Setup > Level Calibration. You must zero at least the LF line and the subwoofer lines (both of them) for the following to work as LF and Test Level interact and the sub volume adjustment gets made using the sub volume knob. But it is easier to just remember to zero ALL the lines first. The ARC Upload will put proper values back into them.
> 
> 
> 2) Set Test Mode to Manual and scroll down one line to Test Level. Noise will be coming from the LF speaker. NOTE: You want to be on the TEST LEVEL line and not on the LF line. The LF line must be 0dB while you are doing this.
> 
> 
> 3) Adjust Test Level to yield 75dB SPL measured at ARC mic position #1. SPL meter set to "C" weighting and "Slow" response, pointing straight up at seated ear height, and held at arm's length and away from reflective surfaces like walls or seat backs.
> 
> 
> 4) Now scroll down to either subwoofer line. Noise will be coming from the subwoofer. Leave the subwoofer line at 0dB and use the volume knob on the sub itself to adjust its output. With one sub, shoot for 75dB SPL measured just as above. With more than one sub, power one at a time and separately adjust them to produce the same output level -- a lower level since their output will add when they are played together. For 2 subs, typically you will shoot for 72dB SPL from each played by itself.
> 
> 
> 5) Now Back out of Level Calibration and go do your ARC Measurement.
> 
> 
> NOTE 1: The ARC Upload doesn't change the Test Level line, and of course it doesn't change your sub volume knob. So you only have to do the above once unless you change something in your setup that invalidates it.
> 
> 
> NOTE 2: Expect small volume trims to be Uploaded by ARC for all speakers. In particular, even LF and the sub lines may be loaded with non-zero values. This is normal. As long as all your volume trims are within a few dB either side of 0dB after the ARC Upload, you are good to go.
> 
> 
> NOTE 3: Do NOT expect an exact match from all speakers using the Level Calibration test tones after the ARC Upload. ARC uses a wider frequency range to pick the target level and picks a level that anticipates Room Correction processing is also in effect (which is not the case when you play the Level Calibration test tones). Trust the values that ARC Uploaded.
> 
> 
> NOTE 4: Ballpark settings are close enough for the preliminary 75dB SPL targets above. ARC will Upload any adjustments it needs.
> 
> 
> NOTE 5: Using an SPL meter can be a bit tricky if you are not careful how you hold it or which range level you set it to. For the Radio Shack digital SPL meter, use the 70dB range when targeting 75dB SPL so that the targeted value is in the middle of the range. 3 or 4dB errors are normal if you use the next range up or down from that, or if you point the meter at the speaker, or etc. Again don't get too hung up on the precision of the SPL Measurement as ARC will adjust things. If you find your ARC solution is a few dB too low or too high (not precisely 75dB) it is usually best to just leave it -- adjust the Main volume knob while listening. But you can also tweak Test Level up or down as needed prior to your next Measurement pass. The 75dB target for the basic volume level of ARC's solution is a guideline, not a rule.
> 
> --Bob



Bob


I did all of these and the graphs are showing a level of almost 70 dbs...

Anthem suggested to zero every level including the test and only adjust the sub volume with the internal tones... What do you think?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/18915244
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> I did all of these and the graphs are showing a level of almost 70 dbs...
> 
> Anthem suggested to zero every level including the test and only adjust the sub volume with the internal tones... What do you think?




Mine was at 70dB also. Maybe my sub level is too low to begin with because I had a result of +2dB via ARC. Will do another ARC pass later.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/18915244
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> I did all of these and the graphs are showing a level of almost 70 dbs...
> 
> Anthem suggested to zero every level including the test and only adjust the sub volume with the internal tones... What do you think?



Increase the test tone volume by 5db and rerun ARC. That should put you close to the 75db. You might be at 74db after ARC runs if the Reference Level Offset is at -1.


----------



## gbhodge

Hello all. I have my D2v in, but have not run ARC yet. I know somewhere in this forum there was a discussion of balanced output cables. Can anyone refer me to that page? I am looking at AudioQuest King Cobra cables and want to know if this is something I need to get.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18918920
> 
> 
> Hello all. I have my D2v in, but have not run ARC yet. I know somewhere in this forum there was a discussion of balanced output cables. Can anyone refer me to that page? I am looking at AudioQuest King Cobra cables and want to know if this is something I need to get.



In My Non-Audiophile Opinion - Balanced Cables are a waste of money.


If you feel the NEED for them - Try an AVS SPONSOR at the top of the

Page - *MONOPRICE*


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18918982
> 
> 
> In My Non-Audiophile Opinion - Balanced Cables are a waste of money.
> 
> 
> If you feel the NEED for them - Try an AVS SPONSOR at the top of the
> 
> Page - *MONOPRICE*




Thanks. I remember that seemed to be the consensus in the earlier discussion. I am being told by the dealer I purchased the D2v from that I need balanced cables with my system.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18919122
> 
> 
> Thanks. I remember that seemed to be the consensus in the earlier discussion. I am being told by the dealer I purchased the D2v from that I need balanced cables with my system.



From Dealer - NO NO NO


He is just trying to increase his PROFIT










Balanced Cables are GOOD to Reduce HUM.


NO HUM PROBLEM first - then you do not need them.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18919122
> 
> 
> Thanks. I remember that seemed to be the consensus in the earlier discussion. I am being told by the dealer I purchased the D2v from that I need balanced cables with my system.



Some of my High-Power AMPS only have Balanced In.


I use a MonoPrice Balanced to RCA adapter and RCA

cables to the AMPS.


----------



## TJG55

Cobras are really nice calbes and the balanced cables are the same price as the RCAs. How does that play into the discussion?

tjg


----------



## Picasso Moon

I have hum problems in my setup when using RCA connectors so I'm 100% sold on the merits of XLR to eliminate it. There is really no need to spend a boat load of money on XLR cables IMHO.


I'm currently using some old cables I bought from Parts Express years ago from the D2v to my amp and Monoprice XLR cables to both of my subs (they only have balanced inputs). Both work fine and have performed flawlessly for years now. My only observation on the Monoprice cables is the actual cable is quite a bit larger diameter than the a std mic cable. They are still very pliable but the outer jacket is a softer (more foamy) type compound than you find on most cables. The connectors appear to be of good quality.


Another option if you decide to use XLR cables and don't want to break the bank but would like to use something constructed with top quality name brand parts are TecNec cables from Markertek . They are made from Canare Star Quad cable and Neutrik XLRs but are reasonably priced and available in 10 colors. These are the cables that my sub designer/manufacturer recommends.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/18919567
> 
> 
> Another option if you decide to use XLR cables and don't want to break the bank but would like to use something constructed with top quality name brand parts are TecNec cables from Markertek . They are made from Canare Star Quad cable and Neutrik XLRs but are reasonably priced and available in 10 colors. These are the cables that my sub designer/manufacturer recommends.



I use these exact cables in my system. D2v to Pass-Labs X350.5 and a Simaudio Titan. I use the XLRs because I have a cat that likes to wander around behind my equipment and the XLRs are locking......not because I think they result in better sound than RCA plugs!!


Mike


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/18922334
> 
> 
> I use the XLRs because I have a cat that like to wander around behind my equipment and the XLRs are locking......not because I think they result in better sound than RCA plugs!!
> 
> 
> Mike



You get the XLR Award of the year










That is the BEST reason I have heard.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm still not sure I like my 5KHz ARC V2.4.12 solution better than my prior, 20KHz ARC V2.4 solution.


With the new solution, I'm definitely *NOT* hearing the dramatic loss of (uncorrected) high frequencies it says I have in the red Measured curves, but I think there is some high mid-range correction (above 5KHz) that was useful in the V2.4 solution which I can't get in the V2.4.12 solution because the high frequency Measured data is not real. [NOTE: I still like my current 5KHz solution better than the first, 9KHz ARC V2.4.12 solution I tried.]


The 5KHz ARC V2.4.12 solution is definitely listenable. And its easy to fool yourself into hearing defects which aren't real. So the jury is still out on this.


The bass is quite good in the V2.4.12 solution. Steered bass in particular is excellent. However I may roll back a bit on the changes I did to enhance the upper end of the sub's LFE output -- perhaps more towards the Auto solution instead of the Flat. I'm still trying to decide on that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/18915244
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> I did all of these and the graphs are showing a level of almost 70 dbs...
> 
> Anthem suggested to zero every level including the test and only adjust the sub volume with the internal tones... What do you think?



I think you should do what Anthem tech support asked you to do and see what you get. Even if that doesn't "fix" the problem, it is useful information as to what might be going on.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18915207
> 
> 
> Except for me, has anyone else been playing around with the Reference Level Offset and other options in ARC v2.4.12?



Yes. I did not find any point in fiddling with the "reference level offset". I don't understand why it is offered.


I'm using Flat in my latest ARC solution and it seems to do what the charts suggest it does.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18914896
> 
> 
> Seriously. I was trying to remember the steps off the top of my head since I am not at home. I don't want anyone to think that I would post false and/or misleading info. But, as always, we have Bob to correct us when we are wrong. So, thanks again for correcting me Bob.



ALL help is welcome in this thread. Everyone should feel free to post suggestions even if you are not sure of the answer. That's what we are here for. We are ALL still learning this stuff.


One of the nice things about a forum like this is misstatements get corrected pretty quickly and painlessly.



"You are, of course, mistaken. But then everybody makes mistakes. Why, I imagine even *I* shall make a mistake.... Some day." -- William F. Buckley, Jr. (replying to an opponent in a debate)










--Bob


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18922369
> 
> 
> You get the XLR Award of the year
> 
> 
> That is the BEST reason I have heard.



So you don't consider eliminating a 60 Hz hum coming from the speakers a valid reason to use XLR?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/18922755
> 
> 
> So you don't consider eliminating a 60 Hz hum coming from the speakers a valid reason to use XLR?



It is almost always better to find the true source of the hum and eliminate it rather than trying to break the ground loop with XLR cables or a 3-prong to 2-prong cheater plug.


The single most common source of such garbage is power line interference getting into your house on the cable shield of a cable or satellite TV feed due to insufficient grounding where the wire enters your house. But of course there are other sources.


An improperly grounded cable feed also lets voltage surges in. So here's an example where fixing the root cause is better than masking the problem.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/18922755
> 
> 
> So you don't consider eliminating a 60 Hz hum coming from the speakers a valid reason to use XLR?



If you have hum - of course. Just remember there is NO REASON for Hum.


But his reason was the BEST one I have hurd - *THE CAT*


You must admit that is unique


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18922786
> 
> 
> It is almost always better to find the true source of the hum and eliminate it rather than trying to break the ground loop with XLR cables



I always assumed I was picking up the hum from the single-ended cables going from my D2v to my amp and subs since XLRs eliminate it and I've never had hum issues with using receiver in the system. Guess that was a bad assumption.


Regardless, what I have now works well and is going to stay for the time being. Maybe this fall and winter I will rip everything out and re-cable back to single ended as that seems to be the preferred option.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It may be that you always had the hum source, but it took the D2v and the stuff you hooked to the D2v such as the sub to provide a circuit back to ground so the interference current could flow.


If interference was ACTUALLY entering your single ended cables through their shielding then you would hear it with any AVR, and it would be sensitive to how you position/drape the cables. And it would be reduced if not completely fixed by switching to better shielded single ended cables.


None of that would be true if the actual source of the interference lies elsewhere such as in your cable TV feed and is merely using the shield of your single ended cables to hop from box to box looking for a path back to ground.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18922713
> 
> 
> Yes. I did not find any point in fiddling with the "reference level offset". I don't understand why it is offered.
> 
> 
> I'm using Flat in my latest ARC solution and it seems to do what the charts suggest it does.
> 
> --Bob



I set the reference level offset to 0, and I set the subwoofer high pass order to flat. I'm going to listen to that for a while to see how I like it. Maybe, once Anthem puts out the official ARC, they will explain what the new settings are doing. From what I can tell, after ARC has corrected as much as it can, it looks to see how far below reference the correction is and then it sets the reference level offset. At least, that's my theory for now.


----------



## ninja12

For those of you that have taken measurements with ARC v2.4.12, how much room gain are you getting? Also, if your "basic volume level" is 75db, how close should you be to the 75db at the crossover? If you are a couple db above that, do you think that will make a difference?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those of you that have taken measurements with ARC v2.4.12, how much room gain are you getting? Also, if your "basic volume level" is 75db, how close should you be to the 75db at the crossover? If you are a couple db above that, do you think that will make a difference?



Typically each speaker will cross below the basic volume level of the solution at the crossover frequency for that speaker. That is the contribution to Room Gain from that speaker (the hump) will all be above its crossover frequency.


If a speaker is hotter than that at its crossover then that probably means something is wrong.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18924533
> 
> 
> Typically each speaker will cross below the basic volume level of the solution at the crossover frequency for that speaker. That is the contribution to Room Gain from that speaker (the hump) will all be above its crossover frequency.
> 
> 
> If a speaker is hotter than that at its crossover then that probably means something is wrong.
> 
> --Bob



So, if the crossover is set to 75 and the basic volume level is 75, are you saying that the basic volume, at the crossover, should be below 75? What if the volume, at the crossover, equals 75? I'm trying to make sure I understand your answer.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18924377
> 
> 
> For those of you that have taken measurements with ARC v2.4.12, how much room gain are you getting? Also, if your "basic volume level" is 75db, how close should you be to the 75db at the crossover? If you are a couple db above that, do you think that will make a difference?



My gain was the same as all my other measurements with 2.4, around 3.9.....


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> So, if the crossover is set to 75 and the basic volume level is 75, are you saying that the basic volume, at the crossover, should be below 75? What if the volume, at the crossover, equals 75? I'm trying to make sure I understand your answer.



You are confusing things by using too many 75s. Let's vary the numbers for clarity.


Suppose you set the SPL levels expecting a solution at 75dB SPL. Suppose the actual solution produced by ARC has a basic volume level of 73dB -- the flat part of the Target curves to the right of the crossover frequencies.


Finally suppose that ARC chooses a cutoff/crossover of 60Hz for the LF/RF speaker pair.


Then given all that, you would expect to see the green Calculated curves for both LF and RF cross through 73dB (not 75dB) at 60 Hz (not 75Hz). To the right of that you will have higher curves due to the Room Gain hump, and further right into the mid range frequencies it will drop down again to 73dB as you get to frequencies higher than are involved in Room Gain.


Apply the same logic to the other speaker pairs except substituting the cutoff/crossover frequency ARC has chosen for each such pair.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18925254
> 
> 
> You are confusing things by using too many 75s. Let's vary the numbers for clarity.
> 
> 
> Suppose you set the SPL levels expecting a solution at 75dB SPL. Suppose the actual solution produced by ARC has a basic volume level of 73dB -- the flat part of the Target curves to the right of the crossover frequencies.
> 
> 
> Finally suppose that ARC chooses a cutoff/crossover of 60Hz for the LF/RF speaker pair.
> 
> 
> Then given all that, you would expect to see the green Calculated curves for both LF and RF cross through 73dB (not 75dB) at 60 Hz (not 75Hz). To the right of that you will have higher curves due to the Room Gain hump, and further right into the mid range frequencies it will drop down again to 73dB as you get to frequencies higher than are involved in Room Gain.
> 
> 
> Apply the same logic to the other speaker pairs except substituting the cutoff/crossover frequency ARC has chosen for each such pair.
> 
> --Bob



Got it. Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18924900
> 
> 
> My gain was the same as all my other measurements with 2.4, around 3.9.....
> 
> 
> John



I wonder if 3.9 is the highest amount of room gain ARC will apply. I don't think I have seen a posting of ARC applying a room gain into the 4s. Well, I'm just happy that ARC found some room gain for my room. In the past, my room gain would always be 0, and I would have to force room gain to 2db. Now, ARC is finding 2.5db of room gain.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18925671
> 
> 
> I wonder if 3.9 is the highest amount of room gain ARC will apply. I don't think I have seen a posting of ARC applying a room gain into the 4s. Well, I'm just happy that ARC found some room gain for my room. In the past, my room gain would always be 0, and I would have to force room gain to 2db. Now, ARC is finding 2.5db of room gain.



If it sounds good then enjoy









John


----------



## jayray

Firmware version 2.1 is very close to being released with DV as is the new ARC version. Should be out sometime this week Nick tells me.

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18929657
> 
> 
> Firmware version 2.1 is very close to being released with DV as is the new ARC version. Should be out sometime this week Nick tells me.
> 
> John



Did he mention anthing about new firmware for the D2?

Tom


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18929657
> 
> 
> Firmware version 2.1 is very close to being released with DV as is the new ARC version. Should be out sometime this week Nick tells me.
> 
> John



Hey kiddies...2.1 is now on the Password Site!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Release Candidate D2v / AVM 50v Firmware V2.10 Now on Password Protected Download Page!*


As noted above, the candidate for the next "official" firmware release for the D2v and AVM 50v is now on Anthem's password protected download page. The complete set of release notes since the prior "official" version, V2.08, now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.10 release, relative to v2.08 release:
> 
> 
> 1. Added Dolby Volume. For operation see manual v2.1x. With the pdf version you can save time by typing "Dolby Volume" in the Find window.
> 
> 
> 2. Added HDMI-out bit depth options in menu 1. Try 8 or 10 bit settings if you're having trouble with a long HDMI output connection that worked reliably with older equipment.
> 
> 
> 3. Bug fixes: Surround preset for 2-channel input and room resonance test noise.
> 
> 
> 4. Improvements: HDMI switching and drive, muting during chapter skips, day/time clock accuracy, video processor software installation reliability. Note that this version resets the video processing code relative to last release, and installation can take up to 40 minutes depending on the version being overwritten.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.09b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Further muting fixes.
> 
> 
> 2. Was put together using updated compiler and archive tools.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08n (26 May) beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for muting that sometimes occurs when switching away from HDMI sources.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08n beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Muting in previous beta also muted test tones in menu 5 and room resonance menu... fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08m beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Updated Dolby Volume calibration and user interface according to latest specification.
> 
> 
> 2. Muting modification to prevent or reduce noises associated with certain players when chapter-skipping Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD soundtracks.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08h beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Added HDMI-out bit depth options in menu 1. Try 8 or 10 bit settings if you're having trouble with a long HDMI output connection that worked reliably with older equipment.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed mode preset for 2-channel input.
> 
> 
> 3. Fixed test noises in room resonance and level calibration menus.
> 
> 
> 4. Dolby Volume - fixed level calibration.
> 
> 
> 5. Certain DD-1.0 soundtracks did not work - fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08e beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Adjusted Dolby Volume reference level such that Music level is closer to Off level (Movie is louder).
> 
> 
> 2. Improved accuracy of day/time clock.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08d beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Preliminary version with Dolby Volume. The menu layout and algorithm is not final but it's close - this is just for anyone interested to get a feel for what's in store. For operating instructions open d2v_manual v2.1.pdf and type "Dolby Volume" in your pdf viewer's search box.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.08a beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Updated OKI bootloader to reduce chance of a video board programming failure and support restoring non-functioning video boards when a serial strap is installed.
> 
> 
> 2. Changes to HDCP code.
> 
> 
> 3. Changes to impedance and drive strength settings for HDMI switches.



Even though this is a likely to become the "official" firmware sometime soon, that has not happened yet. So treat this as "test" firmware for now. It sometimes happens that there are last minute changes prior to firmware becoming "official". We'll check the last modified date and file size when the "official" version appears on the public download page to see if folks installing this "test" version need to reinstall or not.


The draft of the updated manual mentioned in the release notes is the one dated 6/29 that was included with previous "test" release kits.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I decided the new, Flat option for the subwoofer was not working for me. It was giving me an unnatural sounding boost in LFE content. That may be due to my not using it correctly.


So I recalculated going back to the default Auto setting for the sub curve. I've again raised the cutoff on the sub, this time to 120Hz to help fix my sub positioning related weakness near 100Hz. And I limited the correction to below 5KHz to avoid processing what I still believe is bogus, high frequency Measured data. I'll give this a listen and see if I like it better.


Here are the new charts:

--Bob


----------



## MikeCornika

Bob,


What is your opinion, to install the last firmware will be better to use the new ARC software or to stick with the "oficial" release.

A second question: last days it was a rain storm with lightning, and at one moment, something has happen outside, a thunder / light, but not close of the home. I don't have a power failure, but the HDMI connections stops suddenly (between the D2V and the source and D2V and the TV). But like I said, without power failure. I suppose something like a magnetic field affected the HDMI communications. Will be very appreciate for your comments.

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/18930247
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> What is your opinion, to install the last firmware will be better to use the new ARC software or to stick with the "oficial" release.
> 
> A second question: last days it was a rain storm with lightning, and at one moment, something has happen outside, a thunder / light, but not close of the home. I don't have a power failure, but the HDMI connections stops suddenly (between the D2V and the source and D2V and the TV). But like I said, without power failure. I suppose something like a magnetic field affected the HDMI communications. Will be very appreciate for your comments.
> 
> Thanks.



If you are not used to using "test" releases, I suggest you just wait a couple days since it seems like "official" releases are just around the corner for both the processor firmware and ARC itself.


But if you are used to using "test" releases I would probably go to firmware V2.10 before making another ARC Measurement run with ARC V2.4.12. I don't know of anything specific in the new firmware which would change or improve your ARC results, but there are good bug fixes in it, so might as well get those.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/18919421
> 
> 
> Cobras are really nice calbes and the balanced cables are the same price as the RCAs. How does that play into the discussion?
> 
> tjg



I do my own XLR cables at


3.75 USD per male/female Neutrik connector

1.25 USD per foot of Belden shielded cable.


Ttoal Cost 11.25USD per completed 3ft. cable


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Installed firmware V2.10. Also re-Uploaded my latest ARC solution "just in case". No problems, no surprises.

--Bob


----------



## Woodley71

Hoping for a new release for the D2 soon... 1.47F is a little buggy for me.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/18929765
> 
> 
> Did he mention anthing about new firmware for the D2?
> 
> Tom



No mention of D2 firmware, sorry.

John


----------



## jayray

Loaded new firmware 2.1 and because I had 2.09b before, which took a long time to load, this version loaded quite fast. So if you haven't loaded 2.9b and go with 2.1, be prepared for a long load time. This was confirmed by Nick. I think Bob mentioned that he didn't experience this but Anthem said it is likely to happen.

John


----------



## dherrick

Do you know if there is anything functionally different between the 2.09b version and the 2.10 version? Or is Anthem essentially just putting the 2.09b version out as an official release and renaming it ver 2.10?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/18932258
> 
> 
> Do you know if there is anything functionally different between the 2.09b version and the 2.10 version? Or is Anthem essentially just putting the 2.09b version out as an official release and renaming it ver 2.10?



See Bob's post above for the change list.


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/18932524
> 
> 
> See Bob's post above for the change list.



Yes I did see Bob's post above, however the changes listed were with regards to the past official 2.08 release and not as compared to the most recent 2.0b version. It appears that the changes are largely ones that were in the various beta versions leading up to this version. That is why I ask.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/18932554
> 
> 
> Yes I did see Bob's post above, however the changes listed were with regards to the past official 2.08 release and not as compared to the most recent 2.0b version. It appears that the changes are largely ones that were in the various beta versions leading up to this version. That is why I ask.



here's the changes Bob listed for 2.1 after 2.09b


v2.10 release, relative to v2.08 release:


1. Added Dolby Volume. For operation see manual v2.1x. With the pdf version you can save time by typing "Dolby Volume" in the Find window.


2. Added HDMI-out bit depth options in menu 1. Try 8 or 10 bit settings if you're having trouble with a long HDMI output connection that worked reliably with older equipment.


3. Bug fixes: Surround preset for 2-channel input and room resonance test noise.


4. Improvements: HDMI switching and drive, muting during chapter skips, day/time clock accuracy, video processor software installation reliability. Note that this version resets the video processing code relative to last release, and installation can take up to 40 minutes depending on the version being overwritten.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/18932554
> 
> 
> Yes I did see Bob's post above, however the changes listed were with regards to the past official 2.08 release and not as compared to the most recent 2.0b version. It appears that the changes are largely ones that were in the various beta versions leading up to this version. That is why I ask.



Sometimes it's hard to tell what they did specifically to the new version compared to the last one. It looks minor so if inclined to do firmware updates, go ahead, but if not, wait for the official.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Official" D2v / AVM 50v Firmware V2.10 Now On Public Download Pages!*


Anthem has today released "official" firmware V2.10 for the D2v and the AVM 50v. The installers can be downloaded from Anthem's public download pages for the two processors. The change notes for firmware V2.10 now read as follows (changes since the prior "official" firmware V2.08):



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.10:
> 
> 
> 1. Added Dolby Volume. For operation see manual v2.1x. With the pdf version you can save time by typing "Dolby Volume" in the Find window.
> 
> 
> 2. Added HDMI-out bit depth options in menu 1. Try 8 or 10 bit settings if you're having trouble with a long HDMI output connection that worked reliably with older equipment.
> 
> 
> 3. Bug fixes: Surround preset for 2-channel input and room resonance test noise.
> 
> 
> 4. Improvements: HDMI switching and drive, muting during chapter skips, day/time clock accuracy, video processor software installation reliability. Note that this version resets the video processing code relative to last release, and installation can take up to 40 minutes depending on the version being overwritten.



The installer on the public page matches in file size and last modified date/time with the version placed on the password protected download page yesterday. So if you've already installed that version, there is no reason to install this new public copy as well.


Anthem has also placed updated Manuals on the public download pages for the D2v and the AVM 50v. However only the D2v version appears to actually be the new Manual (including Dolby Volume, etc.). That version is identical in file size to the D2v Manual from the password protected page yesterday, but the last modified date is different -- likely due to the way they move it to the public download page (i.e., not embedded in a folder). So it COULD be newer, but likely is not. By the time you read this, whatever is going on with the AVM 50v Manual may very well be corrected -- with an updated version on-line for it as well.


Enjoy!


ETA: The updated AVM 50v Manual is now on the public download pages. There was not a separate AVM 50v version of the Manual on the password protected download page since it is derived from the D2v Manual, so this new, public version is the first AVM 50v specific version of the Manual including Dolby Volume, etc.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

So far there is no firmware update released for the original D2 and AVM 50. The "official" version for these remains V1.33. The "test" version (on the password protected download page) remains V1.47f.

--Bob


----------



## davoe

Bob, I've been ignoring all of the posts on Dolby Volume so far. Now that it is available, I downloaded the manual. There is little information on it in terms of settings.


I know you've put a lot of time into it. Can you give us a recommended starting point in terms of where to set it?


Thanks,

Dave


----------



## MikeCornika

Bob

The 2.10 installed very fast on top of 2.09b, when I reinstalled the ARC , the first time, jammed (never happened before), but the second time everything pass smooth. I have put a Vangelis CD to be sure the sound is ok, beautiful.

On my last post I was too tired and I confused the ARC software with the unit firmware. Thanks


----------



## budeone

This was far the fastest an upgrade had gone.


I played with D/V and really dont see where it should be. It says try different and see what sounds best. I just turned it on Max.


Do I have to re-arc?


----------



## dmusoke

Arc is still v2.4... Wasn't it supposed to be part of this upgrade as well?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18936250
> 
> 
> Arc is still v2.4... Wasn't it supposed to be part of this upgrade as well?



ARC is not part of firmware updates, but separate. There is a beta version of ARC v2.4.12 but a public version will be out soon.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/18935202
> 
> 
> This was far the fastest an upgrade had gone.
> 
> 
> I played with D/V and really dont see where it should be. It says try different and see what sounds best. I just turned it on Max.
> 
> 
> Do I have to re-arc?



You can upload your previous ARC file since you did the firmware update. No remeasurement is necessary.

John


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18937000
> 
> 
> You can upload your previous ARC file since you did the firmware update. No remeasurement is necessary.
> 
> John



I guess I have to re-do it. I have formatted my notebook since then.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/18937226
> 
> 
> I guess I have to re-do it. I have formatted my notebook since then.



Just reload user settings. This works 99%of the time. Let your ears reassure you.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/18937226
> 
> 
> I guess I have to re-do it. I have formatted my notebook since then.



Theoretically, the ARC Room Correction data survives a firmware install. So long as you remembered to Save User and/or Installer Settings after your latest ARC Upload, then restoring from those after the firmware install will also get your Setup menu entries correct.


I always re-Upload my latest ARC results after a firmware install "just in case", but you are not SUPPOSED to have to do that. You DO have to restore your Setup menu of course since you need to Reload Factory Defaults prior to the firmware install.

*IMPORTANT NOTE:* If this is the first firmware install you've done since the Dolby Volume stuff shipped as "test" firmware, be aware that it will leave Dolby Volume turned ON for each Source. So go into Setup > Source Setup and turn OFF Dolby Volume for each Source before trying to satisfy yourself that your prior ARC results are still working properly after the firmware install. (When Dolby Volume is OFF for a Source, the other Dolby Volume settings are irrelevant. You can also view/change your current Dolby Volume setting by pressing "0" on the remote and then using Up/Down arrow. Any change you make this way gets recorded permanently in Setup > Source Setup for that Source.)


-----------------------------------


Whether you should re-Measure for ARC after this firmware install depends on how old your prior firmware was. Personally, even though I have very recent Measurements on very recent firmware, I intend to re-Measure after the ARC V2.4.12 stuff becomes "official" as well (probably as ARC V2.5 I would think).


This is another "just in case" situation.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18934769
> 
> 
> Bob, I've been ignoring all of the posts on Dolby Volume so far. Now that it is available, I downloaded the manual. There is little information on it in terms of settings.
> 
> 
> I know you've put a lot of time into it. Can you give us a recommended starting point in terms of where to set it?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave



I'm not using Dolby Volume much at all, although I suspect I'll be giving it more of a workout soon. So far, the factory default settings seem OK. But again, most of the time I have Dolby Volume OFF for each Source.


Do a search in this thread for posts from me with "Dolby" in them and you will find what little I know of the Dolby Volume stuff.


If someone else does such a search, feel free to post the collection of post links here for convenience.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

All mine came as 8. To be honest i really didnt understand what it did before reading and watching this.

http://www.dolby.com/consumer/experi...by-volume.html 


Now I can go back and figure out what is best. I turned it to max and now I see that is not where I want it.


I do not mess with betas on Anthem. I think it wise for me just to arc again. It takes a few min and its probaly worth it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/18938715
> 
> 
> All mine came as 8. To be honest i really didnt understand what it did before reading and watching this.
> 
> http://www.dolby.com/consumer/experi...by-volume.html
> 
> 
> Now I can go back and figure out what is best. I turned it to max and now I see that is not where I want it.
> 
> 
> I do not mess with betas on Anthem. I think it wise for me just to arc again. It takes a few min and its probaly worth it.



Maybe I'm not looking in the right place, but I'm not seeing any guidance on settings for Dolby Volume in that link.


For example, I've not found a good way to approach adjusting the Dolby Volume calibration level in Setup > Level Calibration. Right now, I just leave it at 0dB.


Nor have a found a good reason for why you might want to turn Half Mode Off for Dolby Volume in Setup > Source Setup.


As far as leveling, the default setting seems rather high to me. And I can hear that when dynamic passages turn into soft dialog passages it takes a while for DV to decide to bring the volume back up. You hear kind of a crescendo as the dialog comes back to proper level. Possibly reducing leveling would help with that but I haven't played with it enough to be sure.


And so far it looks like the only significant thing DV "Cinema Reference" does as compared to "Music" is boost the volume by 10dB.


Now until recently I haven't had much need for Dolby Volume, so I'll probably get more familiar with it over the next few months. But right now I'm using the default settings (when I use it at all) and trying to find a case where I might like "Cinema Reference" over "Music" (after turning Main volume down another 10dB).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

On another follow up, so far my listening tests using my latest ARC calculation -- i.e., using Auto for the sub instead of Flat (and tweaking the solution from there) -- show that Auto is working better for me than Flat did.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've gotten indications from Nick at Anthem that there will be at least one more "test" release of ARC before the new version becomes "official".

--Bob


----------



## davoe

What sub settings are you referring to?


----------



## dmusoke

For those that have had their gear bricked by the upgrade process in the past, have no fear!!! I was one of those that ended up killing my AVM50v when i tried to upgrade to v2.08 last summer. Those were sad times indeed, spending hours flash-erasing and countless e-mails to Anthem tech support. I ended up sending it back to them with all the cables I used during the failed upgrade and almost swore never to do this again.


So, I was more than anxious when I decided to give it a go late last night, tense watching the progress bar repeatedly re-writing, re-verifying various DSPs, MCUs etc. It took about 25 minutes or so (fast than v2.08) to finish the upgrade successfully... Boy, was i relieved or what! I repeatedly checked the version number to verify it was the new v2.10 and yes, it was!!!


To the timid out there, have no fear....go ahead and upgrade, the process is pretty painless







.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/18940826
> 
> 
> What sub settings are you referring to?



Look at the bottom of the Targets window in "test" ARC V2.4.12.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Hi Bob,

My new D2v has arrived at last to replace my old trusty D2. I see that the big toroidal transformer is gone, which result in much much less heat generated (and hopefully longer lifespan for the parts). I can now place my bed in the empty space where it used to be.










While going thru the Setup process, 2 questions came to mind.

*Output Resolution* - When does one set the frame rate to 50Hz or 60Hz? According to the local power supply frequency? Mine is 240v/50Hz.

*Data Format* - I noticed you always recommend YCbCr 4:4:4. I recently read an article which says 4:2:2 is best, since it is the nearest to 4:2:0 with which the video is encoded on the disc. Is this correct?


Appreciate your advice. Thanks.

Ben


----------



## Billybobjimbob

Hi Bob and everyone else who's using anthem kit,


im over in England but will be over in the states shortly. I normally buy all my kit from local dealers but was wondering if i picked up a d2v whilst in the states, will it function as normal with a step down transformer? The above post suggests that there maybe onboard settings to acommodate this but just thought i'd get your thoughts or anyone elses who maybe reading this.


Any relevant advice would be appreciated










thanks


David


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18941841
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> My new D2v has arrived at last to replace my old trusty D2. I see that the big toroidal transformer is gone, which result in much much less heat generated (and hopefully longer lifespan for the parts). I can now place my bed in the empty space where it used to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While going thru the Setup process, 2 questions came to mind.
> 
> *Output Resolution* - When does one set the frame rate to 50Hz or 60Hz? According to the local power supply frequency? Mine is 240v/50Hz.
> 
> *Data Format* - I noticed you always recommend YCbCr 4:4:4. I recently read an article which says 4:2:2 is best, since it is the nearest to 4:2:0 with which the video is encoded on the disc. Is this correct?
> 
> 
> Appreciate your advice. Thanks.
> 
> Ben




Output resolution has nothing to do with your power supply. Mostly it depends what your TV takes but in North America with the NTSC broadcast system it would be set to 60hz. If the broadcast system is PAL you likely want 50hz.


I believe Bob says that 4:4:4: is the native format for HDMI and if not using auto try that setting first.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Billybobjimbob* /forum/post/18941931
> 
> 
> Hi Bob and everyone else who's using anthem kit,
> 
> 
> im over in England but will be over in the states shortly. I normally buy all my kit from local dealers but was wondering if i picked up a d2v whilst in the states, will it function as normal with a step down transformer? The above post suggests that there maybe onboard settings to acommodate this but just thought i'd get your thoughts or anyone elses who maybe reading this.
> 
> 
> Any relevant advice would be appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> David



The settings are not a problem but the step down transformer may be. Theoretically the Anthem shouldn't be able to know it is plugged into a step down transformer, but we've had mixed reports of success here on that. The problem is that apparently some step down transformers either produce vast amounts of interference or have problems delivering the current the Anthem needs at the lower voltage.


I'd also be a bit concerned about warranty coverage. Give Anthem a call and check on warranty status if you buy while you are in the US and transport the unit yourself back to England.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18941841
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> My new D2v has arrived at last to replace my old trusty D2. I see that the big toroidal transformer is gone, which result in much much less heat generated (and hopefully longer lifespan for the parts). I can now place my bed in the empty space where it used to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While going thru the Setup process, 2 questions came to mind.
> 
> *Output Resolution* - When does one set the frame rate to 50Hz or 60Hz? According to the local power supply frequency? Mine is 240v/50Hz.
> 
> *Data Format* - I noticed you always recommend YCbCr 4:4:4. I recently read an article which says 4:2:2 is best, since it is the nearest to 4:2:0 with which the video is encoded on the disc. Is this correct?
> 
> 
> Appreciate your advice. Thanks.
> 
> Ben



The output frame rate is chosen according to what works best FOR YOUR TV. TVs sold in 50Hz power markets are typically optimized to work best with a 50Hz input signal. In all parts of the world today you can also find some TVs that will handle EITHER a 50 or 60Hz input signal, but again they will likely have been optimized for the most common signal in their market area, which would be 50Hz in a 50Hz power supply country. So unless you bought your TV in some other country, the 50Hz signal is likely your best bet.


YCbCr 4:4:4 is the "default" data format for HDMI to HDMI connections. It is the one that's likely to have received the most testing with different devices. But sometimes YCbCr 4:2:2 does indeed work better. Often this is just due to a bug in a display rather than some inherent quality of 4:2:2.


Typically you start with 4:4:4 and get that working as best you can first. For a handle on what's going on and why you might want to try 4:2:2 after you become familiar with how 4:4:4 looks, see the Technology and Terminology portion of the post links collected in the first post of this thread for the posts on Data Format.


One piece of info newer than those posts is the factor of "Deep Color" video formats. With a 36 bit Deep Color connection, a YCbCr 4:4:4 signal is carrying 12 bits per component. Now a 4:2:2 signal could theoretically carry 18 bits per component (only 2 components transmitted each pixel time), but in reality video content and processing just isn't done to that precision, so what you are most likely getting is 12 or even only 10 bits per component with the other bits just padding zeroes. That is, the 4:2:2 signal likely has no more inherent quality than the 4:4:4 signal. Once again, that means the choice between them may come down to whether your display has bugs favoring one format over the other.


If you can't see a difference, you might as well stick with 4:4:4.


The same holds true when picking the input data format from any Source devices that give you an option.

--Bob


----------



## Billybobjimbob




Bob Pariseau said:


> The settings are not a problem but the step down transformer may be. Theoretically the Anthem shouldn't be able to know it is plugged into a step down transformer, but we've had mixed reports of success here on that. The problem is that apparently some step down transformers either produce vast amounts of interference or have problems delivering the current the Anthem needs at the lower voltage.
> 
> 
> I'd also be a bit concerned about warranty coverage. Give Anthem a call and check on warranty status if you buy while you are in the US and transport the unit yourself back to England.
> 
> --Bob[/QUOTe
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> thankyou kindly for the advice. I guess it would be more appropriate to get the d2v back in England, but i was thinking if i could save a few bucks buying it in the states, i could get some extra kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone is using a d2v with a stepdown converter and having no problems, please post on. I could put the money saved towards a nice sub1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> David


----------



## tngiloy

Are the flared wings on the Anthem Statement faceplates removable for placement in an equipment rack?

I have an A2 for sale on Audiogon and was asked if it would fit onto a 19'' wide rack, but I wasnt sure.

Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/18943011
> 
> 
> Are the flared wings on the Anthem Statement faceplates removable for placement in an equipment rack?
> 
> I have an A2 for sale on Audiogon and was asked if it would fit onto a 19'' wide rack, but I wasnt sure.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



Yes (or at least I assume the A2 is built the same as the processors). You have to remove the top lid and then they can be unscrewed from the inside. As always, when around the exposed electronics, take static electricity precautions to keep from zapping the electronics.


Anthem makes an alternate pair of wings with bolt holes drilled in them for screwing the Anthem down in a rack mount setup. I suspect if asked nicely Anthem would sell a pair of these as a replacement, or of course you could just use the unit without wings (which makes the 17 1/4" wide configuration).


Or, if you want the bolt holes for the rack mount, you could do what DRHANKZ did and just take the existing curved wings to a drill press and drill the mounting holes yourself.


You can view details of the 3 configurations in this PDF file:

http://anthemav.com/design-technolog...handle/details 


--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

I'm trying to determine the exact difference between the "Dolby Volume" settings and the "Dolby Volume Level" settings. I don't find the explansation in the manual too clear. Can somebody help explain this?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18943162
> 
> 
> Yes (or at least I assume the A2 is built the same as the processors). You have to remove the top lid and then they can be unscrewed from the inside. As always, when around the exposed electronics, take static electricity precautions to keep from zapping the electronics.
> 
> 
> Anthem makes an alternate pair of wings with bolt holes drilled in them for screwing the Anthem down in a rack mount setup. I suspect if asked nicely Anthem would sell a pair of these as a replacement, or of course you could just use the unit without wings (which makes the 17 1/4" wide configuration).
> 
> 
> Or, if you want the bolt holes for the rack mount, you could do what DRHANKZ did and just take the existing curved wings to a drill press and drill the mounting holes yourself.
> 
> 
> You can view details of the 3 configurations in this PDF file:
> 
> http://anthemav.com/design-technolog...handle/details
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Exactly what I needed to know.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/18943164
> 
> 
> I'm trying to determine the exact difference between the "Dolby Volume" settings and the "Dolby Volume Level" settings. I don't find the explansation in the manual too clear. Can somebody help explain this?



ETA: *CORRECTION: For "Dolby Volume Music" below, read "Dolby Volume ON".*


Leveling has to do with how aggressively Dolby Volume tries to level volumes. There are 10 steps above OFF. Dolby mandates a factory default of 9 which in my opinion is too aggressive, so you might want to dial it back.


Half Mode has to do with whether frequency based volume adjustments are applied. With Half Mode off they are always applied. With Half Mode on they are only applied if the combo of content volume and Main volume knob setting is such that the output is lower than some threshold Dolby has picked. I.e., with Half Mode ON they don't do frequency based adjustments if the output is already loud enough you should be able to hear everything. Apparently it is strongly recommended that Half Mode be left ON (the default), but Anthem exposed the ability to turn it off if you want to experiment.


That leaves the Dolby Volume setting itself and the mysterious Calibration setting (which is found in the Level Calibration menu). The Dolby Volume setting gives you choices of OFF, Music, and Cinema Reference. If Dolby Volume is OFF, no Dolby Volume processing happens for that Source and the other Dolby Volume settings are irrelevant. Set Dolby Volume to OFF if you don't want to futz with Dolby Volume. Apparently Dolby mandates a factory default of ON, so if this is the first firmware install you've done that included the Dolby Volume feature, you will find it set to Music (or Cinema Reference -- I forget which) for every Source. So just turn it OFF for every Source until you are ready to play with it. Subsequent firmware installs will preserve your setting here for each Source.


Dolby Volume Music is "normal" Dolby Volume processing. This is the one you will use for most content. Volume leveling will occur according to how you have set the Levelling control (no leveling if you turn that all the way down). Frequency based volume adjustments will happen either all the time or only when the output volume is soft (the default) depending on how Half Mode is set.


Dolby Cinema Reference is apparently identical to Music except that it boosts output volume by 10dB (or perhaps 11dB). Apparently the idea is to take a 75dB home theater setup and make it work like an 85dB Movie Theater setup. Personally, I don't see the point.


Note that while viewing any Source you can view and adjust the current Dolby Volume setting (Off, Music, or Cinema Reference) by pressing the "0" button once and then using the Up/Down arrow buttons. Any changes you make this way will be recorded (i.e. permanent) in Setup > Source Setup for that Source.


All of the above is remembered "per Source".


Meanwhile over in Setup > Level Calibration is the mysterious Calibration setting for Dolby Volume. So far I have not found any good reason to change it from the default 0dB setting *EVEN THOUGH* that does not give me a 75dB SPL test tone from that line in Level Calibration. I do *NOT* know what this Calibration setting is supposed to do, nor why you might want to change it.


The fact that a Calibration setting of 0dB appears correct in my setup (despite the SPL reading) may also be due to the fact that I have ARC active. I just don't know.


Simply put, the choice (per source) of DV Off/Music/CinemaReference and the choice (per source) of Leveling value for whenever DV is set to Music or to Cinema Reference, are likely the only two settings you'll want to fiddle with.


ETA: NOTE 1: The Dolby Volume Calibration setting in Setup > Level Calibration will show as NA if the current Source has DV turned OFF. But if you go into Manual test mode to play the test tones, the current setting will be visible and changeable again even though the current Source isn't using it.


NOTE 2: With Dolby Volume active for the current Source, an additional display happens in the cycle of displays when you press the Select button repeatedly. The new display shows how much Dolby Volume is boosting or attenuating the volume level at the moment.


NOTE 3: With Dolby Volume active, expect you will have to LOWER Main volume more than you are used to. This will be particularly true if you are using Cinema Reference of course. The trick appears to be to lower Main volume until the loudest passages are no louder than you want for your current listening circumstances. Volume leveling will then RAISE the volume of softer passages (and frequencies that are harder to hear) so that you don't miss anything.

--Bob


----------



## KLF9361

BOB: does firmware V2.10 resolve video processing problem converting from 480i to 1080/24p


thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KLF9361* /forum/post/18943873
> 
> 
> BOB: does firmware V2.10 resolve video processing problem converting from 480i to 1080/24p
> 
> 
> thanks



Haven't tried it. Don't know yet. But it's not listed in the changes -- even in the longer change list for the various "test" versions.


However we know the video processor code was changed, so it's still possible.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I upgraded from 2.08h to 2.10 and I am experiencing a significant delay when first turning on the D2v. It use to take 3 - 4 seconds and now it takes 15+ seconds to lock on the source.


Anyone else finding this?


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18942481
> 
> 
> The output frame rate is chosen according to what works best FOR YOUR TV. TVs sold in 50Hz power markets are typically optimized to work best with a 50Hz input signal. In all parts of the world today you can also find some TVs that will handle EITHER a 50 or 60Hz input signal, but again they will likely have been optimized for the most common signal in their market area, which would be 50Hz in a 50Hz power supply country. So unless you bought your TV in some other country, the 50Hz signal is likely your best bet.



Well, my CRT has so far given me no problems being fed a 60Hz frame rate even though it works on a 50Hz power supply (via HDMI to an interface card which in turn outputs RGB signals to the display). So I guess I must be doing something right so far.



> Quote:
> _YCbCr 4:4:4 is the "default" data format for HDMI to HDMI connections. It is the one that's likely to have received the most testing with different devices. But sometimes YCbCr 4:2:2 does indeed work better. Often this is just due to a bug in a display rather than some inherent quality of 4:2:2.
> 
> 
> Typically you start with 4:4:4 and get that working as best you can first. For a handle on what's going on and why you might want to try 4:2:2 after you become familiar with how 4:4:4 looks, see the Technology and Terminology portion of the post links collected in the first post of this thread for the posts on Data Format.
> 
> 
> One piece of info newer than those posts is the factor of "Deep Color" video formats. With a 36 bit Deep Color connection, a YCbCr 4:4:4 signal is carrying 12 bits per component. Now a 4:2:2 signal could theoretically carry 18 bits per component (only 2 components transmitted each pixel time), but in reality video content and processing just isn't done to that precision, so what you are most likely getting is 12 or even only 10 bits per component with the other bits just padding zeroes. That is, the 4:2:2 signal likely has no more inherent quality than the 4:4:4 signal. Once again, that means the choice between them may come down to whether your display has bugs favoring one format over the other.
> 
> 
> If you can't see a difference, you might as well stick with 4:4:4.
> 
> 
> The same holds true when picking the input data format from any Source devices that give you an option.
> 
> --Bob_



Maybe my eyesight is no more what it used to be, but I have been unable to see any difference between the 2, so guess I shall stick with 4:4:4 output from my D2v.


Thank you, Bob, for the info.

Ben


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KLF9361* /forum/post/18943873
> 
> 
> BOB: does firmware V2.10 resolve video processing problem converting from 480i to 1080/24p
> 
> 
> thanks



No it didn't.

I installed fw 2.10 couple of days ago. First I received error then I tried it again and got it succesful. I checked the 480i signal from my dvd player to d2v (per the manual suggestion) and didn't work. The video was freezing so I changed it back to 480p.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/18944032
> 
> 
> I upgraded from 2.08h to 2.10 and I am experiencing a significant delay when first turning on the D2v. It use to take 3 - 4 seconds and now it takes 15+ seconds to lock on the source.
> 
> 
> Anyone else finding this?



Have been getting this for a while even with earlier versions. Sometimes it is longer and other times faster.

John


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18943580
> 
> 
> Leveling has to do with how aggressively Dolby Volume tries to level volumes. There are 10 steps above OFF. Dolby mandates a factory default of 9 which in my opinion is too aggressive, so you might want to dial it back.
> 
> 
> Half Mode has to do with whether frequency based volume adjustments are applied. With Half Mode off they are always applied. With Half Mode on they are only applied if the combo of content volume and Main volume knob setting is such that the output is lower than some threshold Dolby has picked. I.e., with Half Mode ON they don't do frequency based adjustments if the output is already loud enough you should be able to hear everything. Apparently it is strongly recommended that Half Mode be left ON (the default), but Anthem exposed the ability to turn it off if you want to experiment.
> 
> 
> That leaves the Dolby Volume setting itself and the mysterious Calibration setting (which is found in the Level Calibration menu). The Dolby Volume setting gives you choices of OFF, Music, and Cinema Reference. If Dolby Volume is OFF, no Dolby Volume processing happens for that Source and the other Dolby Volume settings are irrelevant. Set Dolby Volume to OFF if you don't want to futz with Dolby Volume. Apparently Dolby mandates a factory default of ON, so if this is the first firmware install you've done that included the Dolby Volume feature, you will find it set to Music (or Cinema Reference -- I forget which) for every Source. So just turn it OFF for every Source until you are ready to play with it. Subsequent firmware installs will preserve your setting here for each Source.
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume Music is "normal" Dolby Volume processing. This is the one you will use for most content. Volume leveling will occur according to how you have set the Levelling control (no leveling if you turn that all the way down). Frequency based volume adjustments will happen either all the time or only when the output volume is soft (the default) depending on how Half Mode is set.
> 
> 
> Dolby Cinema Reference is apparently identical to Music except that it boosts output volume by 10dB (or perhaps 11dB). Apparently the idea is to take a 75dB home theater setup and make it work like an 85dB Movie Theater setup. Personally, I don't see the point.
> 
> 
> Note that while viewing any Source you can view and adjust the current Dolby Volume setting (Off, Music, or Cinema Reference) by pressing the "0" button once and then using the Up/Down arrow buttons. Any changes you make this way will be recorded (i.e. permanent) in Setup > Source Setup for that Source.
> 
> 
> All of the above is remembered "per Source".
> 
> 
> Meanwhile over in Setup > Level Calibration is the mysterious Calibration setting for Dolby Volume. So far I have not found any good reason to change it from the default 0dB setting *EVEN THOUGH* that does not give me a 75dB SPL test tone from that line in Level Calibration. I do *NOT* know what this Calibration setting is supposed to do, nor why you might want to change it.
> 
> 
> The fact that a Calibration setting of 0dB appears correct in my setup (despite the SPL reading) may also be due to the fact that I have ARC active. I just don't know.
> 
> 
> Simply put, the choice (per source) of DV Off/Music/CinemaReference and the choice (per source) of Leveling value for whenever DV is set to Music or to Cinema Reference, are likely the only two settings you'll want to fiddle with.
> 
> 
> ETA: NOTE 1: The Dolby Volume Calibration setting in Setup > Level Calibration will show as NA if the current Source has DV turned OFF. But if you go into Manual test mode to play the test tones, the current setting will be visible and changeable again even though the current Source isn't using it.
> 
> 
> NOTE 2: With Dolby Volume active for the current Source, an additional display happens in the cycle of displays when you press the Select button repeatedly. The new display shows how much Dolby Volume is boosting or attenuating the volume level at the moment.
> 
> 
> NOTE 3: With Dolby Volume active, expect you will have to LOWER Main volume more than you are used to. This will be particularly true if you are using Cinema Reference of course. The trick appears to be to lower Main volume until the loudest passages are no louder than you want for your current listening circumstances. Volume leveling will then RAISE the volume of softer passages (and frequencies that are harder to hear) so that you don't miss anything.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Thanks for the detailed explanation. One thing that confuses me though isas I understand DV, it is supposed to level the volume from source to source. If I have my Blu-ray souce set to Cinema and my CD player set to On (what I think you are calling "music"), this equalization of volumes between sources does not hold true. Am I missing something here?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

That's the number one tech support question today but like the manual says the answer is to experiment with leveling amount and cinema vs music modes, leaving them where sound is best according to your preference.


Explaining why that's the answer is beyond the scope of an operating manual already much longer than most people care to read so if interested in technical details I recommend starting with the video linked below which shows what happens these days before something is broadcast then the pdf which explains what can happen while something is broadcast. Although it references radio, it's the same with TV.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Gmex_4hreQ 

http://omniaaudio.com/downloads/white-papers/what-happens-to-my-recording-when-it's-played-on-the-radio-frank-foti-robert-orban-june-2001.pdf 


In other words, source dynamic range and sound quality are all over the map depending on when something was mastered, who the producer was and where applicable, who the broadcast producer is.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/18944581
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the detailed explanation. One thing that confuses me though isas I understand DV, it is supposed to level the volume from source to source. If I have my Blu-ray souce set to Cinema and my CD player set to On (what I think you are calling "music"), this equalization of volumes between sources does not hold true. Am I missing something here?



Sorry about the Music/On confusion. It used to be called Music and got changed to On and I just remembered the change backwards.


Anyway, the answer is, you are quite correct. If you move between Sources and some are On and some are Cinema then you will definitely hear a volume difference. This is apparently how Dolby intended it to work.


The function of Leveling will be most intuitive if you think of source content changing from a given source, such as changing channels from your cable TV box or going in and out of dynamic passages in movies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/18944032
> 
> 
> I upgraded from 2.08h to 2.10 and I am experiencing a significant delay when first turning on the D2v. It use to take 3 - 4 seconds and now it takes 15+ seconds to lock on the source.
> 
> 
> Anyone else finding this?



If you look closely you'll find the D2v is actually holding back on turning on (i.e., unmuting things) while it finishes booting up and begins the handshake stuff. In V2.08 the D2v unmuted earlier in the process which made it look like the boot up was faster but increased the chances you'd get some initial garbage.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18944952
> 
> 
> If you look closely you'll find the D2v is actually holding back on turning on (i.e., unmuting things) while it finishes booting up and begins the handshake stuff. In V2.08 the D2v unmuted earlier in the process which made it look like the boot up was faster but increased the chances you'd get some initial garbage.
> 
> --Bob



With 2.08h I would get sound and picture from the source within 5 seconds. Additionally it doesn't even show the source until it actually locks on it.


I have emailed techsupport on this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/18945062
> 
> 
> With 2.08h I would get sound and picture from the source within 5 seconds. Additionally it doesn't even show the source until it actually locks on it.
> 
> 
> I have emailed techsupport on this.



Well I use Triggers based on Power On and it doesn't initiate the Trigger until it shows the Source. So the programming has a bigger delay built in before it considers itself powered on.


What I'm saying is that I doubt the problem has to do with a slower handshake. They just changed the boot up timing.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18945578
> 
> 
> Well I use Triggers based on Power On and it doesn't initiate the Trigger until it shows the Source. So the programming has a bigger delay built in before it considers itself powered on.
> 
> 
> What I'm saying is that I doubt the problem has to do with a slower handshake. They just changed the boot up timing.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


I agree Bob. For those concerned about this I wouldn't worry about it.



Regards,


----------



## tizzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18943580
> 
> 
> Leveling has to do with how aggressively Dolby Volume tries to level volumes. There are 10 steps above OFF. Dolby mandates a factory default of 9 which in my opinion is too aggressive, so you might want to dial it back.
> 
> 
> Half Mode has to do with whether frequency based volume adjustments are applied. With Half Mode off they are always applied. With Half Mode on they are only applied if the combo of content volume and Main volume knob setting is such that the output is lower than some threshold Dolby has picked. I.e., with Half Mode ON they don't do frequency based adjustments if the output is already loud enough you should be able to hear everything. Apparently it is strongly recommended that Half Mode be left ON (the default), but Anthem exposed the ability to turn it off if you want to experiment.
> 
> 
> That leaves the Dolby Volume setting itself and the mysterious Calibration setting (which is found in the Level Calibration menu). The Dolby Volume setting gives you choices of OFF, Music, and Cinema Reference. If Dolby Volume is OFF, no Dolby Volume processing happens for that Source and the other Dolby Volume settings are irrelevant. Set Dolby Volume to OFF if you don't want to futz with Dolby Volume. Apparently Dolby mandates a factory default of ON, so if this is the first firmware install you've done that included the Dolby Volume feature, you will find it set to Music (or Cinema Reference -- I forget which) for every Source. So just turn it OFF for every Source until you are ready to play with it. Subsequent firmware installs will preserve your setting here for each Source.
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume Music is "normal" Dolby Volume processing. This is the one you will use for most content. Volume leveling will occur according to how you have set the Levelling control (no leveling if you turn that all the way down). Frequency based volume adjustments will happen either all the time or only when the output volume is soft (the default) depending on how Half Mode is set.
> 
> 
> Dolby Cinema Reference is apparently identical to Music except that it boosts output volume by 10dB (or perhaps 11dB). Apparently the idea is to take a 75dB home theater setup and make it work like an 85dB Movie Theater setup. Personally, I don't see the point.
> 
> 
> Note that while viewing any Source you can view and adjust the current Dolby Volume setting (Off, Music, or Cinema Reference) by pressing the "0" button once and then using the Up/Down arrow buttons. Any changes you make this way will be recorded (i.e. permanent) in Setup > Source Setup for that Source.
> 
> 
> All of the above is remembered "per Source".
> 
> 
> Meanwhile over in Setup > Level Calibration is the mysterious Calibration setting for Dolby Volume. So far I have not found any good reason to change it from the default 0dB setting *EVEN THOUGH* that does not give me a 75dB SPL test tone from that line in Level Calibration. I do *NOT* know what this Calibration setting is supposed to do, nor why you might want to change it.
> 
> 
> The fact that a Calibration setting of 0dB appears correct in my setup (despite the SPL reading) may also be due to the fact that I have ARC active. I just don't know.
> 
> 
> Simply put, the choice (per source) of DV Off/Music/CinemaReference and the choice (per source) of Leveling value for whenever DV is set to Music or to Cinema Reference, are likely the only two settings you'll want to fiddle with.
> 
> 
> ETA: NOTE 1: The Dolby Volume Calibration setting in Setup > Level Calibration will show as NA if the current Source has DV turned OFF. But if you go into Manual test mode to play the test tones, the current setting will be visible and changeable again even though the current Source isn't using it.
> 
> 
> NOTE 2: With Dolby Volume active for the current Source, an additional display happens in the cycle of displays when you press the Select button repeatedly. The new display shows how much Dolby Volume is boosting or attenuating the volume level at the moment.
> 
> 
> NOTE 3: With Dolby Volume active, expect you will have to LOWER Main volume more than you are used to. This will be particularly true if you are using Cinema Reference of course. The trick appears to be to lower Main volume until the loudest passages are no louder than you want for your current listening circumstances. Volume leveling will then RAISE the volume of softer passages (and frequencies that are harder to hear) so that you don't miss anything.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

in the menu of my AVM50v with fw 2.10 I can only choose between DV Off, On and Cinema Reference: how can you get Music? Or should I rather assume it is equivalent to "On"?


Regards,


tizzy


----------



## budeone

Thanks for post 29011 Bob. and Nick 29019.


I really think I have it figured out now. I have to go back into set up and get this set up properly.


----------



## zuesmaximus

QUESTION? I wanted to know if anyone else was having trouble with the new public ARC software? Last night I installed the new firmware & ARC for D2V. I always like to remeasure after an update but last night I kept getting an error on the sub measurement. A pop up windows with an error code stating to increase the volume level on my sub. I can't understand why I would since I haven't adjusted the level from previuos ARC tests...which is 75db

I adjusted the level to see if I could complete a sweep but same error keeps popping up and I can't remeasure....

Any ideas


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Here is a response I got back from tech regarding questions I had on Dolby Volume.


Bill,




Dolby Volume:


Movie/On/Off




-Movie: highest compression


-On: moderate compression


-OFF




Dolby Level: The higher the number the more compression it has.


The lower the number the less compression.




Half Mode: When set ON: frequency is not altered.


This means if the track is recoreded from a frequency response of 20Hz to 30kHz then that’s what it will play.




When Off: Frequency is altered. Instead of playing 20Hz to 30kHZ it will play say only 50Hz to 20 or 15kHz.








Best


Regards,




Andrew Cirurgiao

Technical Support


----------



## spiderv6

Wow. Clearly Dolby Volume is complicated and needs some tuning, but out of the box and without adjustment.....this is HORRIBLE.


It just sucks the life out of movies. I can hear it adjusting volume all over the place.


Sorry, but this is not prime time code. I have no idea if that is the fault of Anthem or Dolby.


Switching this thing off until I have more time to play with it......


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Try backing off the Leveling value for each Source you are using with Dolby Volume.


Dolby mandates a factory default value of 9 which is just under the max -- too high in my opinion for any content you care about (perhaps useful if you've got TV playing as background noise).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zuesmaximus* /forum/post/18947511
> 
> 
> QUESTION? I wanted to know if anyone else was having trouble with the new public ARC software? Last night I installed the new firmware & ARC for D2V. I always like to remeasure after an update but last night I kept getting an error on the sub measurement. A pop up windows with an error code stating to increase the volume level on my sub. I can't understand why I would since I haven't adjusted the level from previuos ARC tests...which is 75db
> 
> I adjusted the level to see if I could complete a sweep but same error keeps popping up and I can't remeasure....
> 
> Any ideas



If you mean ARC V2.4, that's not new. Been out for quite a while now. The expected "public" update for ARC has not happened yet.


If you mean "test" ARC V2.4.12 from the password protected download page, it appears to have fixed the 6dB level bug that we've talked about many times here. The bottom line being that if you previously lowered Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level an additional 6dB to correct for that, you need to undo that now -- which should get your sub's test tone volume up to a better level for the ARC mic to hear it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tizzy* /forum/post/18947196
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> in the menu of my AVM50v with fw 2.10 I can only choose between DV Off, On and Cinema Reference: how can you get Music? Or should I rather assume it is equivalent to "On"?
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> tizzy



Yes, where I wrote "Music" in that post, read "ON" instead.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18949847
> 
> 
> If you mean ARC V2.4, that's not new. Been out for quite a while now. The expected "public" update for ARC has not happened yet.
> 
> 
> If you mean "test" ARC V2.4.12 from the password protected download page, it appears to have fixed the 6dB level bug that we've talked about many times here. The bottom line being that if you previously lowered Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level an additional 6dB to correct for that, you need to undo that now -- which should get your sub's test tone volume up to a better level for the ARC mic to hear it.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I seem to be having a different kind of ARC problem.


In my old D2/v1.33 and ARC v2.4, the noise level was set at +3dB and I achieved a 75dB level on the graphs. The loudness was quite comfortable for my ears.


But now, with the new D2v/v2.1 and ARC test v2.4.12, the noise level at +3dB was waaay too loud for my ears. It even had one of my inwall Surrounds rattling. Even at -2dB, which I finally used to measure, it was still louder than previously. Yet I can hardly achieve 70dB on the graphs.


So, what's happening? Do I have a faulty mic which is undereading the sound level? Unfortunately, my SPL is broken at this time, so I can't really tell if my ears have suddenly grown more sensitive. But the fact that it set one of my Surrounds tells me that cannot be.


Someone mentioned a possible tweak for ARC before being posted official. I shall wait and see how it will turn out. Meantime, the loaded readings sound fine during my first movie with it last night.


By the way, does DV being left ON make any difference during measurement?

Ben


----------



## gbhodge

Help. I am trying to run ARC. The PC I am using has to use a USB port, but I can't get the D2v to read anything. What is the secret?


----------



## usxplong

Last night I checked the AL Cinema with 2.0 source. The AL Cinema still produces the center channel on the FL & FR channels with fw 2.10. I hope Anthme knows about it.

I will Also email tech support.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18953426
> 
> 
> Last night I checked the AL Cinema with 2.0 source. The AL Cinema still produces the center channel on the FL & FR channels with fw 2.10. I hope Anthme knows about it.
> 
> I will Also email tech support.



usxplong:


AL Cinema is supposed to produce a center channel and transforms all 2.0 stero sources into 7.1 sources.


AL Music excludes the center channel and adds a 4dB bass boost to the sub as well(according to a communique I had with Nick last year). AL Music transforms 2.0 stereo sources into 6.1 sources (center channel removed).


The manual clearly describes this very well.



David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18951802
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I seem to be having a different kind of ARC problem.
> 
> 
> In my old D2/v1.33 and ARC v2.4, the noise level was set at +3dB and I achieved a 75dB level on the graphs. The loudness was quite comfortable for my ears.
> 
> 
> But now, with the new D2v/v2.1 and ARC test v2.4.12, the noise level at +3dB was waaay too loud for my ears. It even had one of my inwall Surrounds rattling. Even at -2dB, which I finally used to measure, it was still louder than previously. Yet I can hardly achieve 70dB on the graphs.
> 
> 
> So, what's happening? Do I have a faulty mic which is undereading the sound level? Unfortunately, my SPL is broken at this time, so I can't really tell if my ears have suddenly grown more sensitive. But the fact that it set one of my Surrounds tells me that cannot be.
> 
> 
> Someone mentioned a possible tweak for ARC before being posted official. I shall wait and see how it will turn out. Meantime, the loaded readings sound fine during my first movie with it last night.
> 
> 
> By the way, does DV being left ON make any difference during measurement?
> 
> Ben



DV being left on does not affect ARC Measurement or the ARC Calculation as far as I can tell.


It's hard to know what's going on without an SPL meter to give you some concrete idea. And it's been a long time since I used V1.33 firmware so I can't remember what might have changed in the new ARC stuff that would give you that with V1.33.


The usual reason that ARC doesn't produce the solution level you were targeting when you set Test Level is that some speaker is out of whack compared to the others and ARC has to shift the solution to accommodate it. Usually that turns out to be the subwoofer.


Anyway, if you post your ARC results charts, including the Targets window, AND ALSO post the volume trims that ARC Uploaded into Setup > Level Calibration for that solution, something might show up to explain your situation.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/18953208
> 
> 
> Help. I am trying to run ARC. The PC I am using has to use a USB port, but I can't get the D2v to read anything. What is the secret?



Has ARC ever worked for you with that PC?


Have you ever used the USB to serial adapter in use with that PC to talk to or control the Anthem?


What is ARC complaining about: Can't find the mic? Can't find the Anthem?


What firmware do you have on your Anthem (press Select once to see -- new firmware V2.10 just came out)? Which version of ARC are you trying to use (should be at least ARC V2.4).


There are many USB/Serial adapters out there which work very poorly. Folks here have had the most success with the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter (sold at Amazon among other places). Check the Keyspan support site to make sure you have the latest driver for it for your version of Windows.


You must use Windows XP or later to run ARC.


You must "install" ARC on your Windows PC, and then run the installed copy (i.e., not run the copy in the folder you downloaded or as found on your ARC install CD). The ARC installer puts a shortcut on your desktop to make this easy to do.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg

I just finished getting a 2 day professional audio calibration to my system and we were able to graphically compare the results pre and post ARC. The first ARC measurement session went fine and the targets were set and the calculated result looked good. After uploading the file we used the Sencore audio analyzer to check the result with pink noise and a 1/30th octave spectrum analyzer. My speakers are all crossed over at about 80hz to 4 JL Audio Fathoms. Doing a frequency plot of the front left speaker (with the bass directed to the 4 subs) revealed a significant anomaly around 40-80hz which didn't show up in the right speaker. Also, the absolute level of the bass was about 5-8db too low from 20-80hz. We gave it another try with a new ARC measurement and the 40-80hz anomaly wasn't as pronounced but the absolute level of the bass from 20-80hz was still too low for any speaker (which would have the bass directed to the 4 subs). I manually raised the sub level in the Anthem D2 speaker calibration menu and remeasured with the Sencore and it was fine. This was a surprising finding considering that the calculated value looked good. But obviously there is currently no way to actually verify that the Anthem calculated result has the desired effect. I hope that the beta version which allows speaker frequency response measurements will be effective with ARC on to show the actual result of a particular upload.


As an aside, professional audio calibration (placement of speakers, subs, optimizing both) is money well spent, even better bang for the buck than ARC was, and that's saying something.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18954425
> 
> 
> DV being left on does not affect ARC Measurement or the ARC Calculation as far as I can tell.
> 
> 
> It's hard to know what's going on without an SPL meter to give you some concrete idea. And it's been a long time since I used V1.33 firmware so I can't remember what might have changed in the new ARC stuff that would give you that with V1.33.
> 
> 
> The usual reason that ARC doesn't produce the solution level you were targeting when you set Test Level is that some speaker is out of whack compared to the others and ARC has to shift the solution to accommodate it. Usually that turns out to be the subwoofer.
> 
> 
> Anyway, if you post your ARC results charts, including the Targets window, AND ALSO post the volume trims that ARC Uploaded into Setup > Level Calibration for that solution, something might show up to explain your situation.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob, for responding.


Here are the results from the measurement taken at -2dB noise level. As you can see, they look quite normal. The resulting trim levels read -


L/F Fronts: -3dB

Center: +3dB

L/R Surrounds: +2dB

Subwoofer: -3dB


I dare not try a measurement at a 6 dB higher noise level to achieve a base of 75dB for fear of puncturing my eardrums and possible damage to the speakers.







As I mentioned before, this level was achieved easily with a +3dB noise level on the old D2/v1.3 with ARC v2.4 without ear damage.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just finished getting a 2 day professional audio calibration to my system and we were able to graphically compare the results pre and post ARC. The first ARC measurement session went fine and the targets were set and the calculated result looked good. After uploading the file we used the Sencore audio analyzer to check the result with pink noise and a 1/30th octave spectrum analyzer. My speakers are all crossed over at about 80hz to 4 JL Audio Fathoms. Doing a frequency plot of the front left speaker (with the bass directed to the 4 subs) revealed a significant anomaly around 40-80hz which didn't show up in the right speaker. Also, the absolute level of the bass was about 5-8db too low from 20-80hz. We gave it another try with a new ARC measurement and the 40-80hz anomaly wasn't as pronounced but the absolute level of the bass from 20-80hz was still too low for any speaker (which would have the bass directed to the 4 subs). I manually raised the sub level in the Anthem D2 speaker calibration menu and remeasured with the Sencore and it was fine. This was a surprising finding considering that the calculated value looked good. But obviously there is currently no way to actually verify that the Anthem calculated result has the desired effect. I hope that the beta version which allows speaker frequency response measurements will be effective with ARC on to show the actual result of a particular upload.
> 
> 
> As an aside, professional audio calibration (placement of speakers, subs, optimizing both) is money well spent, even better bang for the buck than ARC was, and that's saying something.



This is enough of an error that I suspect something simple is wrong. The simplest answer of course would be if ARC was not actually turned on for the Source you set up to use when you did the audio tests.


The anomaly near 80 Hz could also mean your subs were not Phase matched with the main speakers so you were getting cancellation through the crossover frequencies.


Which version of ARC were you using and what firmware do you have in your D2?


NOTE: The new version of ARC does NOT chart "after" results in the Quick View speaker positioning test.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob, for responding.
> 
> 
> Here are the results from the measurement taken at -2dB noise level. As you can see, they look quite normal. The resulting trim levels read -
> 
> 
> L/F Fronts: -3dB
> 
> Center: +3dB
> 
> L/R Surrounds: +2dB
> 
> Subwoofer: -3dB
> 
> 
> I dare not try a measurement at a 6 dB higher noise level to achieve a base of 75dB for fear of puncturing my eardrums and possible damage to the speakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, this level was achieved easily with a +3dB noise level on the old D2/v1.3 with ARC v2.4 without ear damage.
> 
> 
> Ben



It could be that your Test Level is actually too high and ARC reduced the level of the solution because LS in particular was being overdriven.


If so, REDUCING Test Level might get you a higher solution level. An SPL meter would be helpful to sort this out.


Also if you switched from RCA to XLR cabling when you switched to the D2v, that would explain the test level volume difference.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18956279
> 
> 
> It could be that your Test Level is actually too high and ARC reduced the level of the solution because LS in particular was being overdriven.
> 
> 
> If so, REDUCING Test Level might get you a higher solution level. An SPL meter would be helpful to sort this out.
> 
> 
> Also if you switched from RCA to XLR cabling when you switched to the D2v, that would explain the test level volume difference.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, Bob, I'll do another measurement with reduced noise level, say, another 5dB or so down. Yea, I've got to get hold of another SPL meter.


No, I've not done any change to my cables.


This evening, half way thru some adjustments, I suddenly lost my Setup onscreen display.







Any suggestion on how to get it back? Do I reload the firmware? Sheesh, don't tell me I've got a lemon on my hands.


Ben


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18956267
> 
> 
> This is enough of an error that I suspect something simple is wrong. The simplest answer of course would be if ARC was not actually turned on for the Source you set up to use when you did the audio tests.
> 
> 
> The anomaly near 80 Hz could also mean your subs were not Phase matched with the main speakers so you were getting cancellation through the crossover frequencies.
> 
> 
> Which version of ARC were you using and what firmware do you have in your D2?
> 
> 
> NOTE: The new version of ARC does NOT chart "after" results in the Quick View speaker positioning test.
> 
> --Bob



D2 with firmware 1.33 and latest non-beta version of ARC.

ARC was confirmed to be on prior to any measurements.


Phase matching was done perfectly. It was only the left speaker that had the error. The error did almost go away with a repeat run of ARC but I wouldn't have known that without the post-ARC analysis by the calibrator. It's possible that the air conditioner came on at some point (it is a quiet dedicated room. I turned it off for the second attempt at ARC. However, the ARC measured response for the front left channel did not demonstrate any signficant uncorrectable anomaly). However, the 20-80hz was shelved down consistently for all channels. For example, if you ran 20-20khz pink noise through the centre channel the bass was almost perfectly flat between 20 and 80hz but it was clearly shelved down in level. Not like a crossover anomaly which would have been ragged response at the crossover frequency. This was true if you played pink noise through ANY of the speakers (which were all bass managed). The response between 20 and 80hz did not deviate by more than 1-2db based on 1/30th octave analysis and he told me that was outstanding.


So I bumped the sub level by 4-5db in the Anthem speaker calibration menu and we remeasured every channel individually with full bandwidth pink noise. Beautifully integrated measurement and sound to match. It's too bad that ARC doesn't let you objectively assess it's results to verify that it has properly corrected the deviations it found. It's not like it would sound bad left as ARC had made it, but would clearly not be up to the full potential of the system. Maybe it's just something that happened to me but my calibrator wasn't terribly surprised. He's had experience with all of the room correction software and says that while it is good it is no match for a properly setup DSP unit like a QSC 822. I'm sticking with the ARC b/c I've reached a pretty impressive level of performance for a very fair price.


If anyone else has measurement capability then they should really check their result post-ARC to verify they got what they thought they were getting. I'm not ragging on ARC in case it seems that way, just providing info to this great Anthem community on AVS.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18956619
> 
> 
> Ok, Bob, I'll do another measurement with reduced noise level, say, another 5dB or so down. Yea, I've got to get hold of another SPL meter.
> 
> 
> No, I've not done any change to my cables.
> 
> 
> This evening, half way thru some adjustments, I suddenly lost my Setup onscreen display.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestion on how to get it back? Do I reload the firmware? Sheesh, don't tell me I've got a lemon on my hands.
> 
> 
> Ben



Usually a power cycle will get Setup back. If not, reload the firmware, that almost always fixes it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/18956878
> 
> 
> D2 with firmware 1.33 and latest non-beta version of ARC.
> 
> ARC was confirmed to be on prior to any measurements.
> 
> 
> Phase matching was done perfectly. It was only the left speaker that had the error. The error did almost go away with a repeat run of ARC but I wouldn't have known that without the post-ARC analysis by the calibrator. It's possible that the air conditioner came on at some point (it is a quiet dedicated room. I turned it off for the second attempt at ARC. However, the ARC measured response for the front left channel did not demonstrate any signficant uncorrectable anomaly). However, the 20-80hz was shelved down consistently for all channels. For example, if you ran 20-20khz pink noise through the centre channel the bass was almost perfectly flat between 20 and 80hz but it was clearly shelved down in level. Not like a crossover anomaly which would have been ragged response at the crossover frequency. This was true if you played pink noise through ANY of the speakers (which were all bass managed). The response between 20 and 80hz did not deviate by more than 1-2db based on 1/30th octave analysis and he told me that was outstanding.
> 
> 
> So I bumped the sub level by 4-5db in the Anthem speaker calibration menu and we remeasured every channel individually with full bandwidth pink noise. Beautifully integrated measurement and sound to match. It's too bad that ARC doesn't let you objectively assess it's results to verify that it has properly corrected the deviations it found. It's not like it would sound bad left as ARC had made it, but would clearly not be up to the full potential of the system. Maybe it's just something that happened to me but my calibrator wasn't terribly surprised. He's had experience with all of the room correction software and says that while it is good it is no match for a properly setup DSP unit like a QSC 822. I'm sticking with the ARC b/c I've reached a pretty impressive level of performance for a very fair price.
> 
> 
> If anyone else has measurement capability then they should really check their result post-ARC to verify they got what they thought they were getting. I'm not ragging on ARC in case it seems that way, just providing info to this great Anthem community on AVS.



I've checked my ARC results with my Velodyne mic and charting and it is working fine in my setup. I've also checked crossover performance by ear with test tracks. A 5-8dB problem would, of course, be quite evident, and again it is not there in my setup.


You should probably email the details to Anthem tech support, attaching your ARC results file (not just the screen captured charts). They have tools to extract the raw data from the results file, and may find some clue as to what's going on in your case.


One other thought: I believe you said you had more than one subwoofer. In that case, the Speaker Configuration must still be set to "1 Sub" when you are using ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Flugel

I decided that after installing the new firmware on my D2v, then making some modifications to my ARC results and uploading them (done in 2.3, which is what I still have installed on the Windows XP partition on my MacBook Pro) that I would download ARC 2.4 and install it to see if the results differed (were improved). I cannot get ARC 2.4 to finish installing, however, as I get an error message saying that it can't find a temp directory that it needs, giving me the option to try again (useless) or cancel.


I'm sure I am doing something wrong, and it is probably obvious to others even though I'm baffled. Any ideas?


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18957032
> 
> 
> I've checked my ARC results with my Velodyne mic and charting and it is working fine in my setup. I've also checked crossover performance by ear with test tracks. A 5-8dB problem would, of course, be quite evident, and again it is not there in my setup.
> 
> 
> You should probably email the details to Anthem tech support, attaching your ARC results file (not just the screen captured charts). They have tools to extract the raw data from the results file, and may find some clue as to what's going on in your case.
> 
> 
> One other thought: I believe you said you had more than one subwoofer. In that case, the Speaker Configuration must still be set to "1 Sub" when you are using ARC.
> 
> --Bob



Before I posted my findings I thought to myself "what is Bob going to ask?". I figured you'd ask if ARC was on, if it was set to 1 sub, if any of the tone controls or speaker levels on the fly had been mistakenly left on. Nope.


There has to be some explanation if it isn't a true finding. Possibly a user error but I don't really think so. I'll keep you all posted if anything comes up after I discuss this with Anthem.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18956619
> 
> 
> Ok, Bob, I'll do another measurement with reduced noise level, say, another 5dB or so down. Yea, I've got to get hold of another SPL meter.
> 
> 
> No, I've not done any change to my cables.
> 
> 
> This evening, half way thru some adjustments, I suddenly lost my Setup onscreen display.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestion on how to get it back? Do I reload the firmware? Sheesh, don't tell me I've got a lemon on my hands.
> 
> 
> Ben



Ben,


We almost have the same problem. My graph is at 71 dB although I calibrated the volume level at 75dB using a reference SPL meter by goldline and again by Terrasonde audio toolbox (now distributed by Sencore) therefore I am pretty sure of my measurements. If I increase my test level by 4 or 5 db, it sounds that it is more than 80dB and the speakers and are rattling like yours. I don't think it affects ARC in anyway except in its reporting with graphs.


I think your level at -2 is just right because if you lower it by another 5dB your resulting level will be affected by the same amount, your center will be at +8 and surrounds at +7 or so. Your setting are just right at +/-3dB for all speakers from reference.


It just affects the volume level anyway and we have a free hand increasing or decreasing volume level to our liking.



Alvin


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18953651
> 
> 
> usxplong:
> 
> 
> AL Cinema is supposed to produce a center channel and transforms all 2.0 stero sources into 7.1 sources.
> 
> 
> AL Music excludes the center channel and adds a 4dB bass boost to the sub as well(according to a communique I had with Nick last year). AL Music transforms 2.0 stereo sources into 6.1 sources (center channel removed).
> 
> 
> The manual clearly describes this very well.
> 
> 
> 
> David



Thanks dmusoke.

Yes, AL Cinema includes the center but the sound that supposed to be produced only by center channel is also produced on FL & FR channels. So I get the same material from FL, C & FR. I think that is a problem in AL Cinema.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/18955256
> 
> 
> I just finished getting a 2 day professional audio calibration to my system and we were able to graphically compare the results pre and post ARC. The first ARC measurement session went fine and the targets were set and the calculated result looked good. After uploading the file we used the Sencore audio analyzer to check the result with pink noise and a 1/30th octave spectrum analyzer. My speakers are all crossed over at about 80hz to 4 JL Audio Fathoms. Doing a frequency plot of the front left speaker (with the bass directed to the 4 subs) revealed a significant anomaly around 40-80hz which didn't show up in the right speaker. Also, the absolute level of the bass was about 5-8db too low from 20-80hz. We gave it another try with a new ARC measurement and the 40-80hz anomaly wasn't as pronounced but the absolute level of the bass from 20-80hz was still too low for any speaker (which would have the bass directed to the 4 subs). I manually raised the sub level in the Anthem D2 speaker calibration menu and remeasured with the Sencore and it was fine. This was a surprising finding considering that the calculated value looked good. But obviously there is currently no way to actually verify that the Anthem calculated result has the desired effect. I hope that the beta version which allows speaker frequency response measurements will be effective with ARC on to show the actual result of a particular upload.
> 
> 
> As an aside, professional audio calibration (placement of speakers, subs, optimizing both) is money well spent, even better bang for the buck than ARC was, and that's saying something.



The Bogg,

I found the same sub level problem with official ARC and the test ARC version. ARC somehow adjusts the sub level 5-8 db too low eventhough it looks good on the graph.

May be you should also email this to Anthem.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/18958502
> 
> 
> Ben,
> 
> 
> We almost have the same problem. My graph is at 71 dB although I calibrated the volume level at 75dB using a reference SPL meter by goldline and again by Terrasonde audio toolbox (now distributed by Sencore) therefore I am pretty sure of my measurements. If I increase my test level by 4 or 5 db, it sounds that it is more than 80dB and the speakers and are rattling like yours. I don't think it affects ARC in anyway except in its reporting with graphs.
> 
> 
> I think your level at -2 is just right because if you lower it by another 5dB your resulting level will be affected by the same amount, your center will be at +8 and surrounds at +7 or so. Your setting are just right at +/-3dB for all speakers from reference.
> 
> 
> It just affects the volume level anyway and we have a free hand increasing or decreasing volume level to our liking.
> 
> 
> Alvin



Alvin,


So, it appears I am not alone on this issue. Wonder if anybody else is experiencing it.


I don't think lowering the measurement noise level with affect the speaker trim levels for the simple reason that the trim levels are relative levels among your speakers setup. However, the main volume control level would be a different matter since, if I remember correctly, a 75dB base level on the graph corresponds to a -10dB (or something like that) setting on the main volume. Correct me if I have it wrong here.


The reason why my trims are as stated is because I am using balanced cables for my Fronts and Sub, while my Surrounds and Center are using RCA cables. That explains why there's a 5-6dB trim difference between them.


But the issue here is why are some of us here appear to have no problem achieving a 75dB base on the graphs without the risk of busting their eardrums while you and I are unable to do so without possible damage. I fear the rattling sound are actually the speakers bottoming.


Ben


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18959517
> 
> 
> Alvin,
> 
> 
> So, it appears I am not alone on this issue. Wonder if anybody else is experiencing it.
> 
> 
> I don't think lowering the measurement noise level with affect the speaker trim levels for the simple reason that the trim levels are relative levels among your speakers setup. However, the main volume control level would be a different matter since, if I remember correctly, a 75dB base level on the graph corresponds to a -10dB (or something like that) setting on the main volume. Correct me if I have it wrong here.
> 
> 
> The reason why my trims are as stated is because I am using balanced cables for my Fronts and Sub, while my Surrounds and Center are using RCA cables. That explains why there's a 5-6dB trim difference between them.
> 
> 
> But the issue here is why are some of us here appear to have no problem achieving a 75dB base on the graphs without the risk of busting their eardrums while you and I are unable to do so without possible damage. I fear the rattling sound are actually the speakers bottoming.
> 
> 
> Ben



In order for me to achieve 75db on the graph with ARC 2.4.12, I had to set my Noise Level to +4.5. With the official ARC, I could achieve 75db on the graph by setting my Noise Level to -3.5. So, this is an increase in Noise Level Volume of 8db. Also, I am noticing a clicking sound after the sweep ends and just before the sweep for the next speaker starts. The clicking sound happens when it switches from one speaker to the next. For example, the test tones begin with the FL. Once the test tones end, it's quiet. However, as it switches to the Center Channel, I hear the click, then it's quiet, and then the test tones begin for the Center Channel. It does that for each speaker. However, it doesn't seem to have an impact on the volume trims. All of my speaker's trims are within 2db of each other. I'm a little concern about the clicking because I have never heard it before; but, then again, this is a beta version. I might send an e-mail to Anthem to see if they know why it's happening.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18958882
> 
> 
> The Bogg,
> 
> I found the same sub level problem with official ARC and the test ARC version. ARC somehow adjusts the sub level 5-8 db too low eventhough it looks good on the graph.
> 
> May be you should also email this to Anthem.



Well there you go, it's not just me. It's funny b/c even before I had confirmation of this I had always thought that the bass balance was a little bit off. I found ways to change this and now it makes sense. I don't know if it affects lfe level but it does affect the bass managed subwoofer level. Does anyone know if the subwoofer level adjustment in the speaker calibration menu affects both lfe and subwoofer level?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/18960372
> 
> 
> Well there you go, it's not just me. It's funny b/c even before I had confirmation of this I had always thought that the bass balance was a little bit off. I found ways to change this and now it makes sense. I don't know if it affects lfe level but it does affect the bass managed subwoofer level. Does anyone know if the subwoofer level adjustment in the speaker calibration menu affects both lfe and subwoofer level?



It affects both.


There is a "temporary" adjustment available from the remote that can be used to cut (but not boost) just LFE -- press Menu twice. Using those can be confusing as I believe they are dependent on both source and audio input type.


It would be good to figure out what's common between the two of you that might be responsible for this anomaly. I believe both of you are using multiple subs. As I recall, both of you are also running the fronts all the way down to 25Hz. What I'm looking for here is something that may be different from what the bulk of the ARC users are doing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18959664
> 
> 
> In order for me to achieve 75db on the graph with ARC 2.4.12, I had to set my Noise Level to +4.5. With the official ARC, I could achieve 75db on the graph by setting my Noise Level to -3.5. So, this is an increase in Noise Level Volume of 8db. Also, I am noticing a clicking sound after the sweep ends and just before the sweep for the next speaker starts. The clicking sound happens when it switches from one speaker to the next. For example, the test tones begin with the FL. Once the test tones end, it's quiet. However, as it switches to the Center Channel, I hear the click, then it's quiet, and then the test tones begin for the Center Channel. It does that for each speaker. However, it doesn't seem to have an impact on the volume trims. All of my speaker's trims are within 2db of each other. I'm a little concern about the clicking because I have never heard it before; but, then again, this is a beta version. I might send an e-mail to Anthem to see if they know why it's happening.



The level change is likely just due to fixing the 6dB level bug, which appears to have happened in "test" ARC V2.4.12. I.e., with "official" ARC V2.4 you had to lower test level an additional 6dB to keep things from being too hot. The remaining 2dB difference is likely just ARC settling in on a slightly difference solution in the "test" version.


The click is likely an artifact of the way ARC switches the muting when it switches speakers, and how the timing of that lines up with the sweep tone. For example, the timing now has the first, partial sweep tone, coming out only at the very highest tones. Then the next full sweep tone happens. Catching the high end of a sweep could sound like a click. Is the click loud enough to bother you? I doubt it affects what ARC is doing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18959517
> 
> 
> Alvin,
> 
> 
> So, it appears I am not alone on this issue. Wonder if anybody else is experiencing it.
> 
> 
> I don't think lowering the measurement noise level with affect the speaker trim levels for the simple reason that the trim levels are relative levels among your speakers setup. However, the main volume control level would be a different matter since, if I remember correctly, a 75dB base level on the graph corresponds to a -10dB (or something like that) setting on the main volume. Correct me if I have it wrong here.
> 
> 
> The reason why my trims are as stated is because I am using balanced cables for my Fronts and Sub, while my Surrounds and Center are using RCA cables. That explains why there's a 5-6dB trim difference between them.
> 
> 
> But the issue here is why are some of us here appear to have no problem achieving a 75dB base on the graphs without the risk of busting their eardrums while you and I are unable to do so without possible damage. I fear the rattling sound are actually the speakers bottoming.
> 
> 
> Ben



Ben, just go get the SPL meter and set things up right for Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level. Then Measure again and see what you get.


I suspect what is going on is that ARC is lowering the solution BECAUSE of what it is hearing from the speakers. Which means raising Test Level is the wrong answer -- just as your ears are telling you.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18960780
> 
> 
> The level change is likely just due to fixing the 6dB level bug, which appears to have happened in "test" ARC V2.4.12. I.e., with "official" ARC V2.4 you had to lower test level an additional 6dB to keep things from being too hot. The remaining 2dB difference is likely just ARC settling in on a slightly difference solution in the "test" version.
> 
> 
> The click is likely an artifact of the way ARC switches the muting when it switches speakers, and how the timing of that lines up with the sweep tone. For example, the timing now has the first, partial sweep tone, coming out only at the very highest tones. Then the next full sweep tone happens. Catching the high end of a sweep could sound like a click. Is the click loud enough to bother you? I doubt it affects what ARC is doing.
> 
> --Bob



The clicking was bothering me at first because I have never heard it before until now. No, it's not affecting what ARC is doing. My trim levels are between -2 and +2 for all of my speakers including the sub.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18960758
> 
> 
> It affects both.
> 
> 
> There is a "temporary" adjustment available from the remote that can be used to cut (but not boost) just LFE -- press Menu twice. Using those can be confusing as I believe they are dependent on both source and audio input type.
> 
> 
> It would be good to figure out what's common between the two of you that might be responsible for this anomaly. I believe both of you are using multiple subs. As I recall, both of you are also running the fronts all the way down to 25Hz. What I'm looking for here is something that may be different from what the bulk of the ARC users are doing.
> 
> --Bob



I am running 2 subs in my setup; but, ARC has the crossover set to 60. I am definitely not having a problem with the lacking of bass. It's full, clean, and tight. It might be worth setting the crossovers to 60 and not run the speakers at full range and then have a listen.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18960795
> 
> 
> Ben, just go get the SPL meter and set things up right for Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level. Then Measure again and see what you get.
> 
> 
> I suspect what is going on is that ARC is lowering the solution BECAUSE of what it is hearing from the speakers. Which means raising Test Level is the wrong answer -- just as your ears are telling you.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I will, Bob, I will.










Just that abc999 is having a similar problem achieving a 75dB on the graphs. And he has apparently tried using 2 different SPL meters, both measuring 75dB noise output. Yet he can only achieve only 71dB on the graphs. So I'm not having much confidence I can do better. But I'm certainly going to try again and let you know.


Meantime, I have reloaded the v2.10 firmware, but still can get no Setup menu on the screen. I cycled the power (switched off the rear power switch), got the menu on the screen for a while, then it disappeared again. Sighhh....


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18960924
> 
> 
> I am running 2 subs in my setup; but, ARC has the crossover set to 60. I am definitely not having a problem with the lacking of bass. It's full, clean, and tight. It might be worth setting the crossovers to 60 and not run the speakers at full range and then have a listen.



For folks trying to figure this out, remember that there are two different ways to push bass through the main speakers.


First, you can tell ARC to run them Full Range. This means no bass steering from that speaker pair to the sub. At all. Any bass that main speaker pair can't reproduce simply gets lost. It used to be that a "Full Range" setting meant that you would *STILL* get a bass roll off below 25Hz on that speaker pair (not steered, just lost), but the "test" ARC V2.4.12 lets you lower/eliminate even that.


The second way to push bass through a main speaker pair is to *NOT* tell ARC to run that speaker pair Full Range but to just lower the Cutoff/Crossover value. Bass below the chosen Cutoff/Crossover value will still be steered from that speaker pair to the sub. But if you lower it way down, essentially all the bass goes to the main speaker pair.


FOR NEWBIES: Even if you have expensive, full range main speakers, and even if they test well with ARC -- i.e., good low frequency bass output in the red Measured curves -- it is ALMOST ALWAYS best to *NOT* try to push the subsonic bass through them! They may produce output at low volume as in the test sweep tones (and thus the good Measured curves) but not be able to handle those frequencies at volume. So it is almost always best to keep their Cutoff/Crossover value above 30Hz, or even 40Hz, and let your good subwoofer handle the bass for them. That's why a "Full Range" setting for a speaker pair still imposes a 25Hz subsonic roll off by default.


True Full Range operation -- PARTICULARLY if you lower the Cutoff/Crossover below 25Hz -- should be limited to those rare few folks out there who have powered woofers (or satellite subs) on the main speaker pairs that can actually handle subsonic bass at volume.


Note that this is particularly true for Center. Since audio mixers can not depend on you having a subwoofer in your speaker setup, critical bass must be in the mix on the main speakers as well and that usually gets put in the Center channel. So running Center "Full Range" or with a low Cutoff will often cause substantial bass to be sent to it. If you like to play things loud, that can be more strain than Center can handle. That's why blown Center woofers are not uncommon.


------------------------------------------


One more comment from folks doing testing with separate mic systems: We've already had one case here of a person getting confused simply because he wasn't careful enough to double check what his D2v was doing. He carefully selected Stereo audio mode before doing his test, then went into Setup to check what he had in there, then exited Setup and ran his test and got confusing results.


What he had not realized is that entering and exiting Setup is a Source change (the Setup menu is an internally generated S-Video Source), and that meant that his Source's audio Mode Preset was being applied when he exited Setup -- switching him away from Stereo mode to something else (PLIIx Movie as I recall).


Also remember that if you are using externally generated test tones you need to think about how the test tones are getting IN to the D2v. For example, if they come in on an RCA Stereo jack pair (analog audio), you must make sure Analog DSP is selected in Source Setup for that input, as ARC can not function for an analog audio source unless the D2v is allowed to digitize the analog audio input.


Hey, it's a complex box. Lots of ways to confuse things if you are not careful.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18961101
> 
> 
> Yes, I will, Bob, I will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just that abc999 is having a similar problem achieving a 75dB on the graphs. And he has apparently tried using 2 different SPL meters, both measuring 75dB noise output. Yet he can only achieve only 71dB on the graphs. So I'm not having much confidence I can do better. But I'm certainly going to try again and let you know.
> 
> 
> Meantime, I have reloaded the v2.10 firmware, but still can get no Setup menu on the screen. I cycled the power (switched off the rear power switch), got the menu on the screen for a while, then it disappeared again. Sighhh....
> 
> 
> Ben



On your Setup menu problem, give Anthem tech support a call.


The fact that it is going in and out, and that a firmware re-install did not fix it, may mean you have a problem in the analog portion of your video board (the Setup menu is an internally generated S-Video Source). If you have any other S-video Sources handy you can check that -- see if you can get S-video from any of them to display on the Main HDMI output. If it is a board problem you likely won't be able to get video from them either.


If that's what's going on, I suspect your video board will need to be swapped out. But give Anthem tech support a chance to work that through with you first.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18959517
> 
> 
> Alvin,
> 
> 
> So, it appears I am not alone on this issue. Wonder if anybody else is experiencing it.
> 
> 
> I don't think lowering the measurement noise level with affect the speaker trim levels for the simple reason that the trim levels are relative levels among your speakers setup. However, the main volume control level would be a different matter since, if I remember correctly, a 75dB base level on the graph corresponds to a -10dB (or something like that) setting on the main volume. Correct me if I have it wrong here.
> 
> 
> The reason why my trims are as stated is because I am using balanced cables for my Fronts and Sub, while my Surrounds and Center are using RCA cables. That explains why there's a 5-6dB trim difference between them.
> 
> 
> But the issue here is why are some of us here appear to have no problem achieving a 75dB base on the graphs without the risk of busting their eardrums while you and I are unable to do so without possible damage. I fear the rattling sound are actually the speakers bottoming.
> 
> 
> Ben



The test version of ARC is smarter than the current official version. Meaning, ARC adjusts the curves based on the largest dip vs the preadjusted vollume level to achieve a smooth curve. With current official version ARC adjusts the curve based on the preset vollume say 75 db then draws the curve. That could result an uneven curve due to a big dip in the room. So if there is a big dip, new ARC will lower the reference vollume as much as needed to come up with a smooth curve. The 0 to -3db adjustment in the advance mode is also there for the same purpose, I think. So user can adjust the reference vollume to achieve the best curve possible. This is based on my observation only. There might be other reasons for it or my finding might not be correct. I played with the manual reference vollume in the advance mode and set it at -2 db and achieved very good curves and sound. The only exception is the sub level that is adjusted 5-8 db too low by ARC and I had to raise it manualy to get the best sound. I hope this helps.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18960758
> 
> 
> It affects both.
> 
> 
> There is a "temporary" adjustment available from the remote that can be used to cut (but not boost) just LFE -- press Menu twice. Using those can be confusing as I believe they are dependent on both source and audio input type.
> 
> 
> It would be good to figure out what's common between the two of you that might be responsible for this anomaly. I believe both of you are using multiple subs. As I recall, both of you are also running the fronts all the way down to 25Hz. What I'm looking for here is something that may be different from what the bulk of the ARC users are doing.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I am using a single sub and my front speakers are not large. Everything is set by ARC.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18961278
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I am using a single sub and my front speakers are not large. Everything is set by ARC.



Thanks for clarifying that. Curiouser and curiouser....

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18961259
> 
> 
> The test version of ARC is smarter than the current official version. Meaning, ARC adjusts the curves based on the largest dip vs the preadjusted vollume level to achieve a smooth curve. With current official version ARC adjusts the curve based on the preset vollume say 75 db then draws the curve. That could result an uneven curve due to a big dip in the room. So if there is a big dip, new ARC will lower the reference vollume as much as needed to come up with a smooth curve. The 0 to -3db adjustment in the advance mode is also there for the same purpose, I think. So user can adjust the reference vollume to achieve the best curve possible. This is based on my observation only. There might be other reasons for it or my finding might not be correct. I played with the manual reference vollume in the advance mode and set it at -2 db and achieved very good curves and sound. The only exception is the sub level that is adjusted 5-8 db too low by ARC and I had to raise it manualy to get the best sound. I hope this helps.



Funny you should mention this, because I have noticed this too with the beta version. My previous curves still had dips but my ARC measurements were at 85 dB. Now they are at 75 dB and voila, smoother curves and no dips. Coincidental, maybe not.

John


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18960758
> 
> 
> It affects both.
> 
> 
> There is a "temporary" adjustment available from the remote that can be used to cut (but not boost) just LFE -- press Menu twice. Using those can be confusing as I believe they are dependent on both source and audio input type.
> 
> 
> It would be good to figure out what's common between the two of you that might be responsible for this anomaly. I believe both of you are using multiple subs. As I recall, both of you are also running the fronts all the way down to 25Hz. What I'm looking for here is something that may be different from what the bulk of the ARC users are doing.
> 
> --Bob



Actually my calibrator recommended bass management so the mains and other speakers are crossed over to the sub at 60 or 80hz (I forget which right now) for the front 3 and a little higher for the rears.


The Sencore equipment he used has digital output into the digital input of the Anthem and I believe the signals were sent as AC3 for multichannel and regular stereo when just looking at the mains.


I don't think the LFE itself is low, and in that case most people might be satisfied as is. It's the bass redirected from the bass managed speakers which measures low. Now we didn't actually measure the level of the lfe bass, just that it was very good graphically.


I'll look into this further...


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/18961914
> 
> 
> Actually my calibrator recommended bass management so the mains and other speakers are crossed over to the sub at 60 or 80hz (I forget which right now) for the front 3 and a little higher for the rears.
> 
> 
> The Sencore equipment he used has digital output into the digital input of the Anthem and I believe the signals were sent as AC3 for multichannel and regular stereo when just looking at the mains.
> 
> 
> I don't think the LFE itself is low, and in that case most people might be satisfied as is. It's the bass redirected from the bass managed speakers which measures low. Now we didn't actually measure the level of the lfe bass, just that it was very good graphically.
> 
> 
> I'll look into this further...



I used the AVIA disk for base and LFE measurement. When the disk was playing LFE, the level droped. AVIA disk information during playing LFE says, if the level drops it means the source is not ON for LFE. This not exact phrase from AVIA but the best I remember at this time. So it means LFE is also dropped by ARC. But since I have raised the sub vollume manualy, it probably compensates for the low level of LFE. I have already reported these to Anthem tech support. I think you should also send an email to Anthem tech support. The more users with the same problem the better. By the way bypass LFE from my source is ON.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/18961914
> 
> 
> Actually my calibrator recommended bass management so the mains and other speakers are crossed over to the sub at 60 or 80hz (I forget which right now) for the front 3 and a little higher for the rears.
> 
> 
> The Sencore equipment he used has digital output into the digital input of the Anthem and I believe the signals were sent as AC3 for multichannel and regular stereo when just looking at the mains.
> 
> 
> I don't think the LFE itself is low, and in that case most people might be satisfied as is. It's the bass redirected from the bass managed speakers which measures low. Now we didn't actually measure the level of the lfe bass, just that it was very good graphically.
> 
> 
> I'll look into this further...



The test I do with the Velodyne mic and charting is specifically for steered bass (Stereo L/R feeding 15-200Hz sweeps into Analog-DSP, Stereo audio mode, and ARC for output to LF/RF/Sub).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18962121
> 
> 
> I used the AVIA disk for base and LFE measurement. When the disk was playing LFE, the level droped. AVIA disk information during playing LFE says, if the level drops it means the source is not ON for LFE. This not exact phrase from AVIA but the best I remember at this time. So it means LFE is also dropped by ARC. But since I have raised the sub vollume manualy, it probably compensates for the low level of LFE. I have already reported these to Anthem tech support. I think you should also send an email to Anthem tech support. The more users with the same problem the better.



Which specific test are you using on Avia, and is it the original Avia SD-DVD or the Avia II re-release?


It's been a long time since I used the original Avia, but my recollection is that it is known for having some bugs in its audio tests, and the LFE reference level may be one of them. I no longer have my original Avia disc (I use the Avia Pro disc set), but perhaps someone else here can try your Avia tests and contrast with results from some other test disc such as the AIX Calibration Blu-Ray disc or DVE HD Basics Blu-Ray.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18962263
> 
> 
> Which specific test are you using on Avia, and is it the original Avia SD-DVD or the Avia II re-release?
> 
> 
> It's been a long time since I used the original Avia, but my recollection is that it is known for having some bugs in its audio tests, and the LFE reference level may be one of them. I no longer have my original Avia disc (I use the Avia Pro disc set), but perhaps someone else here can try your Avia tests and contrast with results from some other test disc such as the AIX Calibration Blu-Ray disc or DVE HD Basics Blu-Ray.
> 
> --Bob



There is the sub calibration manue that sends many different types of audio signals for different tests and one of them is the LFE signal.

I use the original AVIA SD-DVD disk. I have no information about the audio bugs.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18962214
> 
> 
> The test I do with the Velodyne mic and charting is specifically for steered bass (Stereo L/R feeding 15-200Hz sweeps into Analog-DSP, Stereo audio mode, and ARC for output to LF/RF/Sub).
> 
> --Bob



yeah that would do it. so obviously you didn't find a shelving down of the bass. hmmm....


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18960795
> 
> 
> Ben, just go get the SPL meter and set things up right for Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level. Then Measure again and see what you get.
> 
> 
> I suspect what is going on is that ARC is lowering the solution BECAUSE of what it is hearing from the speakers. Which means raising Test Level is the wrong answer -- just as your ears are telling you.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I ran another measurement today with the aid of a new SPL meter. Noise level was set lower at -3.5dB (75dB on the meter), just 1.5dB lower than previously. As you can see from the results below, the new base line is just that much lower at about 68dB, as I suspected it would be. The speaker trims remain the same, as are the crossover points.


So, is it a software issue? If so, won't everybody using v2.4.12 be having the same effect? I am inclined to suspect a miscalibrated or faulty microphone thing.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18965377
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I ran another measurement today with the aid of a new SPL meter. Noise level was set lower at -3.5dB (75dB on the meter), just 1.5dB lower than previously. As you can see from the results below, the new base line is just that much lower at about 68dB, as I suspected it would be. The speaker trims remain the same, as are the crossover points.
> 
> 
> So, is it a software issue? If so, won't everybody using v2.4.12 be having the same effect? I am inclined to suspect a miscalibrated or faulty microphone thing.
> 
> 
> Ben



When you set Noise Level with the new meter, did you remember to zero out the other lines in Level Calibration first? Noise Level and the existing volume trim for LF interact. So LF must be at 0dB when you are setting Noise Level (Test Level for D2v / AVM 50v folks).


Did the test sweep tones at the lower Noise Level still seem to be way too loud to you?


ETA: I don't see how this could be a mic problem since if it was it would affect what the mic heard when setting Noise Level just as it did when listening to the ARC sweep tones. The curve for your LF speaker is smooth enough that I don't think the SPL reading could be off due to volume peaks dips outside of the range of the Noise Level test tone either.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18965708
> 
> 
> When you set Noise Level with the new meter, did you remember to zero out the other lines in Level Calibration first? Noise Level and the existing volume trim for LF interact. So LF must be at 0dB when you are setting Noise Level (Test Level for D2v / AVM 50v folks).



Yep, I did zero all the speakers.



> Quote:
> _Did the test sweep tones at the lower Noise Level still seem to be way too loud to you?_



Just bearable, but still louder than when I was measuring with the old D2. R/Surround still rattle a bit at the low end during the sweep, not the noise.



> Quote:
> _ETA: I don't see how this could be a mic problem since if it was it would affect what the mic heard when setting Noise Level just as it did when listening to the ARC sweep tones. The curve for your LF speaker is smooth enough that I don't think the SPL reading could be off due to volume peaks dips outside of the range of the Noise Level test tone either._--Bob



Am missing something here. The mic wasn't used to set the noise level, the SPL meter was. If the mic is under reading the sweep tones, it would explain the lower base level on the measurement, won't it?


Ben


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18965708
> 
> 
> When you set Noise Level with the new meter, did you remember to zero out the other lines in Level Calibration first? Noise Level and the existing volume trim for LF interact. So LF must be at 0dB when you are setting Noise Level (Test Level for D2v / AVM 50v folks).



Yep, I did zero all the speakers.



> Quote:
> _Did the test sweep tones at the lower Noise Level still seem to be way too loud to you?_



Just bearable, but still louder than when I was measuring with the old D2. R/Surround still rattle a bit at the low end during the sweep, not the noise.



> Quote:
> _ETA: I don't see how this could be a mic problem since if it was it would affect what the mic heard when setting Noise Level just as it did when listening to the ARC sweep tones. The curve for your LF speaker is smooth enough that I don't think the SPL reading could be off due to volume peaks dips outside of the range of the Noise Level test tone either._--Bob



The mic wasn't used to set the noise level, the SPL meter was.


Come to think of it, Bob, when v2.4.12 first appeared, out of curiosity, I use the v2.4 measurements to calculate and found the base line became lower by about 9dB (from 75dB to 66dB). So it appears ARC itself may be causing the situation.


Ben


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18965377
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I ran another measurement today with the aid of a new SPL meter. Noise level was set lower at -3.5dB (75dB on the meter), just 1.5dB lower than previously. As you can see from the results below, the new base line is just that much lower at about 68dB, as I suspected it would be. The speaker trims remain the same, as are the crossover points.
> 
> 
> So, is it a software issue? If so, won't everybody using v2.4.12 be having the same effect? I am inclined to suspect a miscalibrated or faulty microphone thing.
> 
> 
> Ben



Benleeys,

As I mentioned before, your reference vollume is low because you have a dip below 65db between 1000-2000 hz. New ARC is adjusting the reference level based on the lowest dip vollume to come up with a smooth curve. I think thats why your reference vollume is lower than what you had adjusted it for (75 db).


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/18966536
> 
> 
> Benleeys,
> 
> As I mentioned before, your reference vollume is low because you have a dip below 65db between 1000-2000 hz. New ARC is adjusting the reference level based on the lowest dip vollume to come up with a smooth curve. I think thats why your reference vollume is lower than what you had adjusted it for (75 db).



Not quite so. You're looking at a v2.4 measurement calculated with v2.4.12.


You have to look at the new measurement earlier. The reference level is lower by 5-6dB because the overall level is only around 70dB instead of 75dB and to achieve that level, I will be puncturing my eardrums during the frequency sweeps. We are trying to determine why the sweeps are so loud (much louder than v2.4) yet the overall measurement level is 5-6db low.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ben,

Quite correct on the mic vs. SPL meter readings. Good catch.


----------------------------


Check in Windows > Program Files > Anthem where ARC V2.4.12 gets installed and see what calibration data files are in there. There should be a NEW Recalibration data file. There may also be a Recalibration data file from your previous install. And there should also be the two files with names made up of your Anthem processor serial number and your ARC mic serial number (the licensing file and the mic-specific calibration file).


Also this latest chart comparing the same mic data readings as charted in ARC V2.4 vs. ARC V2.4.12 shows the strangeness in Measured values in the high frequencies.


Now this comparison is showing about an 8dB difference in level, which is mostly made up of 6dB from the fixing of the 6dB level bug -- i.e., you no longer need to lower Test Level an additional 6dB (below what the SPL meter is telling you to use) to yield a 75dB solution. So the unexplained difference in the two charts (of the same, older mic Measurements) is just 2dB.

--Bob


----------



## abc999

I think just as the latest beta ARC gave us a tool for single speaker response measurement, they could include a SPL meter in the next reincarnation of ARC. This would make setting overall test level and subwoofer level much easier.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18967183
> 
> 
> Ben,
> 
> Quite correct on the mic vs. SPL meter readings. Good catch.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------
> 
> 
> Check in Windows > Program Files > Anthem where ARC V2.4.12 gets installed and see what calibration data files are in there. There should be a NEW Recalibration data file. There may also be a Recalibration data file from your previous install. And there should also be the two files with names made up of your Anthem processor serial number and your ARC mic serial number (the licensing file and the mic-specific calibration file).



Yep, all 4 files are there. Mic/D2v serial numbers checked.



> Quote:
> _Also this latest chart comparing the same mic data readings as charted in ARC V2.4 vs. ARC V2.4.12 shows the strangeness in Measured values in the high frequencies.
> 
> 
> Now this comparison is showing about an 8dB difference in level, which is mostly made up of 6dB from the fixing of the 6dB level bug -- i.e., you no longer need to lower Test Level an additional 6dB (below what the SPL meter is telling you to use) to yield a 75dB solution. So the unexplained difference in the two charts (of the same, older mic Measurements) is just 2dB.
> 
> --Bob_



Sorry, Bob, you lost me there.







Are you saying that, previously, when using v2.4, the 75db showing on my chart is 6dB high in error and that it should actually be showing only 69dB?


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, all 4 files are there. Mic/D2v serial numbers checked.
> 
> 
> Sorry, Bob, you lost me there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you saying that, previously, when using v2.4, the 75db showing on my chart is 6dB high in error and that it should actually be showing only 69dB?
> 
> 
> Ben



No. I'm saying the 75dB from before was real, but that to get that you had to lower Test Level an additional 6 dB prior to Measurement due to the level bug in the older ARC. You no longer have to do that, so the same data, viewed in the new "test" ARC shows as 6dB too low to begin with.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I have done some fiddling with my sub 25 using PBK 1.4 and ARC 2.4.12 and after some extensive testing with LFE demo material I have come to some interesting conclusions. Now I can only speak to my situation with the sub 25 but using PBK and ARC I got very good results but my crossover went from 105 Hz (previous ARC measurement) to 120 Hz. When I just ran ARC, it gave me a 105 crossover but I changed this to 120 Hz. on Nick's advice and the low extension was more palpable. Using the AIX disc that came with my oppo, I could feel the sub earlier in the sweep, ie. almost as soon as the test tone burst finished. This was confirmed using many BD samples. So, ARC by itself was better for my one sub config. For multiple subs, Nick has mentioned, PBK with ARC can be a better solution, but then remember, every room is different.

John


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18970358
> 
> 
> No. I'm saying the 75dB from before was real, but that to get that you had to lower Test Level an additional 6 dB prior to Measurement due to the level bug in the older ARC. You no longer have to do that, so the same data, viewed in the new "test" ARC shows as 6dB too low to begin with.
> 
> --Bob



I didn't realise that. All I did was set the noise level to obtain 75dB on the charts and not bothering with the SPL meter.


But now, with v2.4.12, at SPL meter level of 75dB, I am only getting a chart level of about 68dB. At that level, the frequency sweeps were already too loud for my ears, which wasn't the situation before. What's going on? How did you manage to achieve 73dB on your chart without damage?


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18970842
> 
> 
> I didn't realise that. All I did was set the noise level to obtain 75dB on the charts and not bothering with the SPL meter.
> 
> 
> But now, with v2.4.12, at SPL meter level of 75dB, I am only getting a chart level of about 68dB. What's going on?
> 
> 
> Ben



That's what we are trying to figure out. I don't know yet.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18970842
> 
> 
> But now, with v2.4.12, at SPL meter level of 75dB, I am only getting a chart level of about 68dB. At that level, the frequency sweeps were already too loud for my ears, which wasn't the situation before. What's going on? How did you manage to achieve 73dB on your chart without damage?
> 
> Ben



I find the sweep tones painful at 70 dB. I have to wear earplugs or closed headphones when I do an ARC run. I can't imagine being able to sit in the room without ear protection while ARC does its sweeps. I have pretty sensitive hearing.


I've started setting my laptop near the door, clicking the OK button and quickly exiting and closing the door to my room as an alternative. It would be nice to have a 5 second interval before the sweeps start.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A wireless mouse would give you a running start....


I don't find the tones too loud myself but each person is different. They have to be loud enough to pick up good results.


NOTE: The volume trims are not applied while the test sweep tones are playing. So any speakers that need negative trim in the final ARC solution will sound louder during the sweep tones since they are untrimmed.

--Bob


----------



## DssConman

Where can I download ARC v2.4.12?


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/18971412
> 
> 
> I find the sweep tones painful at 70 dB. I have to wear earplugs or closed headphones when I do an ARC run. I can't imagine being able to sit in the room without ear protection while ARC does its sweeps. I have pretty sensitive hearing.
> 
> 
> I've started setting my laptop near the door, clicking the OK button and quickly exiting and closing the door to my room as an alternative. It would be nice to have a 5 second interval before the sweeps start.



Welcome to the Club!

You're the 3rd user here to mention this issue.

Click OK and run for your life (ears).


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DssConman* /forum/post/18971725
> 
> 
> Where can I download ARC v2.4.12?



You have to email Anthem for the password and the page to download it.

John


----------



## benleeys

Bob,


Any idea what that "BeeepSnaaap" noise coming from the front speakers during a DVD chapter change is (only trailers section)? I get it only from my DV-79AVi player. Mute is already set to Max in the D2v Setup. The old D2 never had this problem.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18971876
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Any idea what that "BeeepSnaaap" noise coming from the front speakers during a DVD chapter change is (only trailers section)? I get it only from my DV-79AVi player. Mute is already set to Max in the D2v Setup. The old D2 never had this problem.
> 
> 
> Ben



I don't know what the cause it, but that problem has existed in the D2v since it came out. I get it with my DV-59avi as well (an HDMI V1.0 device).


Anthem no longer has a DV-59avi for testing, but they might still have a DV-79avi, so let Anthem tech support know that you are getting it on your player as well. Presumably there's some noise being put out by the Pioneers at the start of a new audio stream that the D2v is not properly rejecting. The same discs play without problem on other players.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18972054
> 
> 
> I don't know what the cause it, but that problem has existed in the D2v since it came out. I get it with my DV-59avi as well (an HDMI V1.0 device).
> 
> 
> Anthem no longer has a DV-59avi for testing, but they might still have a DV-79avi, so let Anthem tech support know that you are getting it on your player as well. Presumably there's some noise being put out by the Pioneers at the start of a new audio stream that the D2v is not properly rejecting. The same discs play without problem on other players.
> 
> --Bob



I'll let Anthem know. Thanks.

Ben


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18971812
> 
> 
> Welcome to the Club!
> 
> You're the 3rd user here to mention this issue.
> 
> Click OK and run for your life (ears).



I have a D2 with v1.47f and ARC v2.4.12. I sit 9' from my mains and center. I can achieve 75db on my Radio Shack SPL Meter with the Test Level Volume set to +1.5 which is very comfortable. When I ran ARC, the basic volume level displayed as 71.5. So, in order to achieve 75db on my ARC Graph, I had to increase the Test Level Volume from +1.5 to +5.0 which is an increase of +3.5, and once again, I didn't find the test tones to be ear damaging. I wonder if you guys have a malfunctioning mic. I might be worth asking Anthem is they can send you a replacement mic.


----------



## The Bogg

Odd indeed. I didn't find the test tone volumes to be anywhere near "loud" either.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/18973863
> 
> 
> Odd indeed. I didn't find the test tone volumes to be anywhere near "loud" either.



It is loud for me. Will measure the sweep tone later in the day, but I think its no less than 5dB above 75dB via SPL meter.


----------



## benleeys

Hey guys,


Do you realise we are approaching the 30k mark in this fantastic thread?


Must be a record. Maybe an entry in Guinness?










Ben


----------



## obie_fl

Think I'll pop open a Guinness to celebrate instead.


----------



## Texas steve

I see 2.10 for the D2V is offically out. its on the offical web page as well as the beta download page. Anyone have it installed? Any issues?


----------



## jayray

I have experienced a low test tone level on occasion with 2.1 and 2.4.12 installed. This has not affected my ARC measurements which are right at 75 dB. The ARC run has the right amount of dB which I can tell from many other measurements.

John


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18975807
> 
> 
> I have experienced a low test tone level on occasion with 2.1 and 2.4.12 installed. This has not affected my ARC measurements which are right at 75 dB. The ARC run has the right amount of dB which I can tell from many other measurements.
> 
> John



The test tone is fine. It's the frequency sweeps that are unbearably loud.


----------



## Texas steve

Jay so your using 2.10, any issues? I have 2.09b and the start up time on the D2v was long (I assume to allow for HDMI locking). Has this been improved in 2.10?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18975807
> 
> 
> I have experienced a low test tone level on occasion with 2.1 and 2.4.12 installed. This has not affected my ARC measurements which are right at 75 dB. The ARC run has the right amount of dB which I can tell from many other measurements.
> 
> John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The power on time is not changed between 2.09b and 2.10. It is still longer than in prior versions. Evidently Anthem added a larger power on delay time to improve the chances that everything was operating correctly before the power on triggers were activated. For some folks that use Sources which didn't need the extra delay, this means it will take longer for them to get to the first picture/sound. For other folks it will mean less chance of hearing garbage as things power up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18975969
> 
> 
> The test tone is fine. It's the frequency sweeps that are unbearably loud.



No problem with sweep tone volume here either.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18976398
> 
> 
> The power on time is not changed between 2.09b and 2.10. It is still longer than in prior versions. Evidently Anthem added a larger power on delay time to improve the chances that everything was operating correctly before the power on triggers were activated. For some folks that use Sources which didn't need the extra delay, this means it will take longer for them to get to the first picture/sound. For other folks it will mean less chance of hearing garbage as things power up.
> 
> --Bob



I forgot to report that Nick said that Dolby Volume uses significant resources at startup causing delay.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/18976413
> 
> 
> I forgot to report that Nick said that Dolby Volume uses significant resources at startup causing delay.



Well I can believe the boot up time is longer for the DSPs simply because there is more code to initialize. But the increased power on time first appeared in "test" firmware V2.09b, and Dolby Volume first appeared quite a bit earlier in "test" firmware V2.08d.


It may be they added some delay to allow Dolby Volume time to reach a steady state as regards the Source selected at power up before the triggers activate and the audio unmutes. They may have had some complaints that DV was playing at the wrong volume level if unmuted earlier. But THAT would suggest they'd need a similar delay each time you switch Sources, and of course that isn't happening.


Anyway, it's really no big deal. It's just happening at power up. Good cooking takes time.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18976003
> 
> 
> Jay so your using 2.10, any issues? I have 2.09b and the start up time on the D2v was long (I assume to allow for HDMI locking). Has this been improved in 2.10?



Bob answered the question. No problems for me with 2.1 and ARC 2.4.12 so far has been great with my sub 25. I know you have one so if you haven't tried it, I can tell you it does a great job below 20 Hz. Compare using the AIX disc,if you have one, using the LFE sweep tone. I did one before and after beta ARC and the diff was very noticeable. If your cutoff in ARC is lower than 120, raise it. I did and wow.

John


I do not have any problem with test tone sweep levels.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18976003
> 
> 
> Jay so your using 2.10, any issues? I have 2.09b and the start up time on the D2v was long (I assume to allow for HDMI locking). Has this been improved in 2.10?



Greetings,


No problem with 2.10 and ARC 2.4.12 on my end either.



Rergards,


----------



## Texas steve

Just ran it. I set everyting first to zero then with the RS meter set to 72, however on my new charts they show 70db. Should I raise my inital to 75 and re-ARC?


Also have you tried raising the 5K max eq freq to 10K and listen? Or was it just best to leave at 5K?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18976734
> 
> 
> Bob answered the question. No problems for me with 2.1 and ARC 2.4.12 so far has been great with my sub 25. I know you have one so if you haven't tried it, I can tell you it does a great job below 20 Hz. Compare using the AIX disc,if you have one, using the LFE sweep tone. I did one before and after beta ARC and the diff was very noticeable. If your cutoff in ARC is lower than 120, raise it. I did and wow.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> I do not have any problem with test tone sweep levels.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18972054
> 
> 
> I don't know what the cause it, but that problem has existed in the D2v since it came out. I get it with my DV-59avi as well (an HDMI V1.0 device).
> 
> 
> Anthem no longer has a DV-59avi for testing, but they might still have a DV-79avi, so let Anthem tech support know that you are getting it on your player as well. Presumably there's some noise being put out by the Pioneers at the start of a new audio stream that the D2v is not properly rejecting. The same discs play without problem on other players.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I got this reply from Andrew -

_Unfortunately we no longer have that player readily available.

Unless we can obtain a player I don't believe there will be a way for us to assess the issue.


I can request a fix but cannot guarantee (since we do not have a player) 100% success._


Ben


----------



## barhoram

I just installed an acoustically transparent screen (SMX) and moved my center channel from the stage floor to a shelf behind the screen a little above center. I'm suprised to see that it looks to have a worse response after running ARC. It now has a couple of feet behind it and is raiseed up off the floor. I assumed getting it off the floor would really help. Pictuers of both responses below. Any suggestions? Or ideas why the differnece isn't better?


NEW ARC (see Center Channel)












OLD ARC


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/18977202
> 
> 
> I just installed an acoustically transparent screen (SMX) and moved my center channel from the stage floor to a shelf behind the screen a little above center. I'm suprised to see that it looks to have a worse response after running ARC. It now has a couple of feet behind it and is raiseed up off the floor. I assumed getting it off the floor would really help. Pictuers of both responses below. Any suggestions? Or ideas why the differnece isn't better?



I'm not sure what you were trying to improve. Your original Center positioning seemed to be working well.


In any event if you ignore the dashed Target curve, and the difference in basic level, the red Measured curves for the two Center speakers appear quite similar EXCEPT that your new Center location seems to have coupled Center to a room resonance either side of 40Hz.


Adding that to the existing room resonance near 90Hz and bass from Center looks quite hot. In addition, you seem to have coupled to a smaller room Null just above 100Hz. ARC has apparently decided to counter all that by raising the cutoff/crossover for Center to keep from sending it those bass frequencies.


You could try experimenting with a lower Cutoff off for Center so that ARC would use that energy. Or just try shifting Center around a bit. Even inches can make a difference at these frequencies. The new Quick View feature in "test" ARC V2.4.12 could be a help with that.


If Center has a bass adjustment (e.g., a bass port you can close), that might also be worth a try.

--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Bob,


Thanks for the response. Yep, I'm going to try shifting around a bit and see what comes out of it. My assumption was that getting the center off the floor and further back from the primary listening position would help make my response even better. It looks like that's not the case. It's behind the screen, right in the middle now--perhaps thats the problem. I've got a few feet I can play with raising and lowering it, and a foot or so front to back I can move it. Let's see what I can do...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18977070
> 
> 
> Just ran it. I set everyting first to zero then with the RS meter set to 72, however on my new charts they show 70db. Should I raise my inital to 75 and re-ARC?
> 
> 
> Also have you tried raising the 5K max eq freq to 10K and listen? Or was it just best to leave at 5K?



Set the test level to 75 dB. If using ARC 2.4.12 this should get you to 75 dB on your charts. I have my target set to 9 kHz. Slightly better than 5 kHz. on the charts but really hard to hear the difference. What is ARC setting your sub cutoff to?

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/18977202
> 
> 
> I just installed an acoustically transparent screen (SMX) and moved my center channel from the stage floor to a shelf behind the screen a little above center. I'm suprised to see that it looks to have a worse response after running ARC. It now has a couple of feet behind it and is raiseed up off the floor. I assumed getting it off the floor would really help. Pictuers of both responses below. Any suggestions? Or ideas why the differnece isn't better?
> 
> 
> NEW ARC (see Center Channel)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OLD ARC



What did you do to your sub? The measured curve looks diff in the two sets of ARC measurements.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/18977575
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. Yep, I'm going to try shifting around a bit and see what comes out of it. My assumption was that getting the center off the floor and further back from the primary listening position would help make my response even better. It looks like that's not the case. It's behind the screen, right in the middle now--perhaps thats the problem. I've got a few feet I can play with raising and lowering it, and a foot or so front to back I can move it. Let's see what I can do...



Your problems are all really at 125Hz and below, so the screen is not likely to be contributing. It's just a positioning thing, as well perhaps related to the nature of the hollow where you've now placed the Center.


Also, room coupling works in 3 dimensions, so some of the new coupling could be due to the height. Again, a little up or down might make a difference. The fact that you now have Center, umm, "centered" is probably also contributing to how it couples to the room.


Just play around with positioning a bit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18977599
> 
> 
> Set the test level to 75 dB. If using ARC 2.4.12 this should get you to 75 dB on your charts. I have my target set to 9 kHz. Slightly better than 5 kHz. on the charts but really hard to hear the difference. What is ARC setting your sub cutoff to?
> 
> John



I've decided that my 5KHz solution sounds better than the prior 9KHz solution with ARC V2.4.12. As I've said before, I think the high frequency Measured data in ARC V2.4.12 is bogus, and thus using it for correction won't help. This is not a Measurement problem per se, as ARC V2.4.12 shows the same strange high frequencies when fed data Measured using ARC V2.4.


The problem is, even if I'm correct there's no easy way to tell when the data starts to go wrong. If it's only above 10KHz, then a 9KHz solution should sound fine. But if it's above 5KHz then a 9KHz solution is using "wrong" data to decide what to correct.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Sub cutoff is 120 (choose by ARC). I will re-run and move up the test level. I guess in the end however it simply means at 72, when listening to music etc, I simply have to turn the vol up more.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18977599
> 
> 
> Set the test level to 75 dB. If using ARC 2.4.12 this should get you to 75 dB on your charts. I have my target set to 9 kHz. Slightly better than 5 kHz. on the charts but really hard to hear the difference. What is ARC setting your sub cutoff to?
> 
> John


----------



## Texas steve

I noticed a major difference in the charts when trying settings above 10K, so I settled on 10K. Ill try 5 as well and listen.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18977653
> 
> 
> I've decided that my 5KHz solution sounds better than the prior 9KHz solution with ARC V2.4.12. As I've said before, I think the high frequency Measured data in ARC V2.4.12 is bogus, and thus using it for correction won't help. This is not a Measurement problem per se, as ARC V2.4.12 shows the same strange high frequencies when fed data Measured using ARC V2.4.
> 
> 
> The problem is, even if I'm correct there's no easy way to tell when the data starts to go wrong. If it's only above 10KHz, then a 9KHz solution should sound fine. But if it's above 5KHz then a 9KHz solution is using "wrong" data to decide what to correct.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18977694
> 
> 
> Sub cutoff is 120 (choose by ARC). I will re-run and move up the test level. I guess in the end however it simply means at 72, when listening to music etc, I simply have to turn the vol up more.



Can you hear any diff with beta ARC with very low freq? The AIX LFE sweep is a good way to hear the diff.

John


----------



## Texas steve

going to give it a try tonight. I had time to run it but not listen - bummer! Love that Sub 25! Did you end up on 220v?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18977908
> 
> 
> going to give it a try tonight. I had time to run it but not listen - bummer! Love that Sub 25! Did you end up on 220v?



No I didn't. Nick said if I don't play things at ref level for a prolonged period, it's hard to notice a diff. However if you do, it will be noticeable.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18977612
> 
> 
> What did you do to your sub? The measured curve looks diff in the two sets of ARC measurements.
> 
> John



Oh John, you beat me to it. I had the same question about the sub. The old chart looks better than the new chart.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18978545
> 
> 
> Oh John, you beat me to it. I had the same question about the sub. The old chart looks better than the new chart.



Looks like he bought a new sub b/t measurements









John


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18977612
> 
> 
> What did you do to your sub? The measured curve looks diff in the two sets of ARC measurements.
> 
> John



Good catch. I moved the sub behind the screen as well. It was an eyesore in the room previously---a few feet from the first row of charis. Yep--the responses are different...does the New look that much worse? After ARC the corrected response was pretty much in line with the target. I can move it around a bit behind the screen wall as well.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/18978991
> 
> 
> Good catch. I moved the sub behind the screen as well. It was an eyesore in the room previously---a few feet from the first row of charis. Yep--the responses are different...does the New look that much worse? After ARC the corrected response was pretty much in line with the target. I can move it around a bit behind the screen wall as well.



The new measurement had the 100 Hz. region around 10 dB lower than the 50 Hz. region. This will result in much less punch or impact. This level of drop off will be very noticeable. Have you tried it with some good pounding scenes? The target changed a lot, so even if it matches the target this doesn't mean much. The target is generated from what ARC measures. Good measurement, good target and good solution. I had a similar issue and moving my sub changed the target and solution. You are trying to get a fairly smooth curve from 100 to 20 Hz. ie. similar dB level all through that range. Looks like your first position was better sounding but not asthetically. Always a trade off









John


----------



## jayray

I have attached my sub measurement with PBK. Look at the measurement vs. the target and you'll see what I mean. See the flat response from 100 to 20 Hz. That is what changed in your charts.

John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18976003
> 
> 
> Jay so your using 2.10, any issues? I have 2.09b and the start up time on the D2v was long (I assume to allow for HDMI locking). Has this been improved in 2.10?





With 2.10 I have had to re-boot 5 times since I have installed it. I see no improvement from any firmware upgrade yet. I was hoping a fix would come soon as my I was considering taking this baby back, the sound is way too good for me to replace this baby but the HDMI problems are still a pain. My brother purchased a D2v the same time as me and is having the same problems. I have changed to 8 bit output with no difference. I change from a Satellite with HDMI and another Satellite with component to a PC on HDMI, a Popcorn c200 with HDMI and a PS3 and an Xbox 360 both with HDMI. If they cannot make this as efficient as my old Denon 3808 I will still hang in there as I said, the sound is awesome. I am also curious about the delay they have now put in with the last two upgrades, where the Anthem takes way too long to boot up, they must think that having the Anthem turn on last will help things but it has not. Earlier I had adjusted all sources to come on last as that was the best fit for my components and the HDMI handshake but now I have to reconfigure everything to try and get the best handshake possible. It's been almost a year now, I hope they get their **** together soon, maybe hire a Denon programmer for the HDMI hanshake issues. If you are not having these problems I wonder if you are switching between so many sources.


On a different note, I have now installed a transducer in my rocker recliner and have had to split my second sub with a "Y" splitter, is anyone else doing this and do you find that you have to make any other adjustments to anything, for example, the sub output?


John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18979734
> 
> 
> With 2.10 I have had to re-boot 5 times since I have installed it. I see no improvement from any firmware upgrade yet. I was hoping a fix would come soon as my I was considering taking this baby back, the sound is way too good for me to replace this baby but the HDMI problems are still a pain. My brother purchased a D2v the same time as me and is having the same problems. I have changed to 8 bit output with no difference. I change from a Satellite with HDMI and another Satellite with component to a PC on HDMI, a Popcorn c200 with HDMI and a PS3 and an Xbox 360 both with HDMI. If they cannot make this as efficient as my old Denon 3808 I will still hang in there as I said, the sound is awesome. I am also curious about the delay they have now put in with the last two upgrades, where the Anthem takes way too long to boot up, they must think that having the Anthem turn on last will help things but it has not. Earlier I had adjusted all sources to come on last as that was the best fit for my components and the HDMI handshake but now I have to reconfigure everything to try and get the best handshake possible. It's been almost a year now, I hope they get their **** together soon, maybe hire a Denon programmer for the HDMI hanshake issues. If you are not having these problems I wonder if you are switching between so many sources.
> 
> 
> On a different note, I have now installed a transducer in my rocker recliner and have had to split my second sub with a "Y" splitter, is anyone else doing this and do you find that you have to make any other adjustments to anything, for example, the sub output?
> 
> 
> John



John,

drhankz mentioned way back about using a turn on sequence which I used until some of this hdmi handshake got fixed, at least for me. PJ first, then D2v and then source. I am using an XA2 hddvd, ps3, oppo BD83 and SA 8300 PVR all with hdmi and no issues if I use the above sequence. I don't really get any issues syncing even if I change the sequence after several of the more recent firmware updates.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18980933
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> drhankz mentioned way back about using a turn on sequence
> 
> John



Thanks for remembering me


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18980946
> 
> 
> Thanks for remembering me



Credit where credit is due









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18981052
> 
> 
> Credit where credit is due
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



But that was awhile ago - GOOD MEMORY John.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/18981065
> 
> 
> But that was awhile ago - GOOD MEMORY John.



Every time I turn my system on I think of this sequence, it worked for a long time and eliminated the need to throw a shoe at my D2v


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18981075
> 
> 
> Every time I turn my system on I think of this sequence, it worked for a long time and eliminated the need to throw a shoe at my D2v



I have THREE Theaters - Only One is Anthem Equipped.


I use the same sequence on all three and no problems.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18979734
> 
> 
> With 2.10 I have had to re-boot 5 times since I have installed it. I see no improvement from any firmware upgrade yet. I was hoping a fix would come soon as my I was considering taking this baby back, the sound is way too good for me to replace this baby but the HDMI problems are still a pain. My brother purchased a D2v the same time as me and is having the same problems. I have changed to 8 bit output with no difference. I change from a Satellite with HDMI and another Satellite with component to a PC on HDMI, a Popcorn c200 with HDMI and a PS3 and an Xbox 360 both with HDMI. If they cannot make this as efficient as my old Denon 3808 I will still hang in there as I said, the sound is awesome. I am also curious about the delay they have now put in with the last two upgrades, where the Anthem takes way too long to boot up, they must think that having the Anthem turn on last will help things but it has not. Earlier I had adjusted all sources to come on last as that was the best fit for my components and the HDMI handshake but now I have to reconfigure everything to try and get the best handshake possible. It's been almost a year now, I hope they get their **** together soon, maybe hire a Denon programmer for the HDMI hanshake issues. If you are not having these problems I wonder if you are switching between so many sources.
> 
> 
> On a different note, I have now installed a transducer in my rocker recliner and have had to split my second sub with a "Y" splitter, is anyone else doing this and do you find that you have to make any other adjustments to anything, for example, the sub output?
> 
> 
> John



John,

I forgot to mention, that I have a Denon 1610 in my family room running a ps3 and that everytime I switch b/t sources or even swith from menu to play, the denon has to resync. This also occurs with my friend's 4310. So even denon hasn't gotten it 100% right.

John


----------



## Texas steve

Ran 2.10 no issues with upgrade went smooth, cant tell any differences on anything yet.


Ran new ARC (beta), set cutoff to 10K (tried 15K but messed up the charts) and the sound improvement with new ARC is noticeable. Bass (Sub25) is much better, but overall sound is also improved, more "clarity" etc.










Im going to try lowering the cutoff to about 7, see what the charts look like and perhaps test that as well.


So far Im pleased. Just don't like the delay on start up. My projector is already on before the D2v is coming alive!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18977866
> 
> 
> Can you hear any diff with beta ARC with very low freq? The AIX LFE sweep is a good way to hear the diff.
> 
> John


----------



## Texas steve

Jay, you mentioned that ARC does more correction below 20hz, but how can you tell from the ARC chart since it only goes to 20?


Agreed the bass (sub25) sounds tighter and better.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18978168
> 
> 
> No I didn't. Nick said if I don't play things at ref level for a prolonged period, it's hard to notice a diff. However if you do, it will be noticeable.
> 
> John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18981804
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> I forgot to mention, that I have a Denon 1610 in my family room running a ps3 and that everytime I switch b/t sources or even swith from menu to play, the denon has to resync. This also occurs with my friend's 4310. So even denon hasn't gotten it 100% right.
> 
> John



I also have my components set up in sequence and this is fine for starting from scratch, or turning the units on for the first time (before the new 15 second delay that the D2v now has booting up). I rarely have a problem then, while I am watching Satellite 1 and then switch to Satellite 2 or to the PC or any mix there of while the Projector stays on is when I see problems. Just one hour ago I switched from my Direct TV to my Shaw Direct Satellite and I had sound but no picture a reboot of the D2v fixed it. I have had Harmony Support place a 2 second delay on start up for my dishes in the Activity and now with the D2v's new delay this is shot to hell, having the D2v on the input first and then having the Satellite come on worked best for me.

As for the Denon 3808, not once did I have to reboot it to get a signal and I have the same Satellites and HDMI cable running (50 ft). I was just surprised to see that after taking the plunge and spending 5 times more than any receiver I have ever owned to get my D2v that I would "start" to see problems, and if my brother is seeing the exact same problems as I then I doubt we are isolated incidents.

I appreciate your replies John and am glad that you don't have to reboot your D2v, but if the people that have a D2 are still having problems too then it looks like this may be something I will have to live with for a long while.

PS: As I said before once I do get a signal there is nothing better and still worth it to me, I was just kinda hoping that someone would have some miracle cure for me.









PSS: Next year I will be redoing my room and my equipment will be much closer to my Projector so I can get rid of the 50' HDMI and go with a 10' and see if that makes a difference.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/18983383
> 
> 
> Jay, you mentioned that ARC does more correction below 20hz, but how can you tell from the ARC chart since it only goes to 20?
> 
> 
> Agreed the bass (sub25) sounds tighter and better.



Nick told me it did but I used the AIX disc that came with the Oppo BD83 and did the LFE sweep which starts at 16 Hz. Could feel the diff which I could not detect before. Also, any BD disc I have tried that had very low LFE, has now sounded better or should I say, felt better. I also agree that clarity has improved which I mentioned to Nick. My charts have better correction compared to 2.4, below 5K with older measurements and new ones. Overall very pleased.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/18984082
> 
> 
> I also have my components set up in sequence and this is fine for starting from scratch, or turning the units on for the first time (before the new 15 second delay that the D2v now has booting up). I rarely have a problem then, while I am watching Satellite 1 and then switch to Satellite 2 or to the PC or any mix there of while the Projector stays on is when I see problems. Just one hour ago I switched from my Direct TV to my Shaw Direct Satellite and I had sound but no picture a reboot of the D2v fixed it. I have had Harmony Support place a 2 second delay on start up for my dishes in the Activity and now with the D2v's new delay this is shot to hell, having the D2v on the input first and then having the Satellite come on worked best for me.
> 
> As for the Denon 3808, not once did I have to reboot it to get a signal and I have the same Satellites and HDMI cable running (50 ft). I was just surprised to see that after taking the plunge and spending 5 times more than any receiver I have ever owned to get my D2v that I would "start" to see problems, and if my brother is seeing the exact same problems as I then I doubt we are isolated incidents.
> 
> I appreciate your replies John and am glad that you don't have to reboot your D2v, but if the people that have a D2 are still having problems too then it looks like this may be something I will have to live with for a long while.
> 
> PS: As I said before once I do get a signal there is nothing better and still worth it to me, I was just kinda hoping that someone would have some miracle cure for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PSS: Next year I will be redoing my room and my equipment will be much closer to my Projector so I can get rid of the 50' HDMI and go with a 10' and see if that makes a difference.
> 
> John



John,

I know this can be very frustrating so I hope this gets resolved.

John


----------



## Texas steve

I put in the AIX disk (I have the 83 as well) tonight and you are correct! I wish Anthem would extend the charts below 20K. I ended up seeting my Max EQ at 8K and raised my gain by a factor of 1. After listening tonight the improvements with both the Firmware upgrade and the ARC upgrade to me are excellent.


Now if they could get the high freq part of the ARC charts straight I think it would be fabulous







.


Looks like you and I have similar tastes in Equipt. In addition to the 83, sub25 and D2v, I have a BAT6200 power amp, Panny 4000 HD Proj, 106" screen, and SALK HT3 speakers.










For those that have never seen the workmanship of the SALK speakers you should check out Jim's sight, but the sound is to die for!



quote=jayray;18984243]Nick told me it did but I used the AIX disc that came with the Oppo BD83 and did the LFE sweep which starts at 16 Hz. Could feel the diff which I could not detect before. Also, any BD disc I have tried that had very low LFE, has now sounded better or should I say, felt better. I also agree that clarity has improved which I mentioned to Nick. My charts have better correction compared to 2.4, below 5K with older measurements and new ones. Overall very pleased.

John[/quote]


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18970859
> 
> 
> That's what we are trying to figure out. I don't know yet.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, Bob, I know what the problem is with the excruciatingly loud frequency sweep tones.


When I first installed ARC v2.4.12, I was using my old D2. However, when my new D2v arrived, I simply replaced the 2 calibration files, forgetting that the program was installed specifically for the D2. A stupid mistake!


I selected D2v for the reinstallation and all is well now.

















Ben


----------



## ASW

I was able to widen the mounting holes on my D2v (I think only one hole actually) with an electric hand drill in about 5 minutes and mounted it in a Middle Atlantic rack, no problem.


----------



## barhoram

Ok. I've moved the center and sub around in a few positions. I tried the sub in the back of the room and on the right side. Results were much worse, so I moved it back behind the stage about 1/3 of the way from the left wall. Here is the best I could do.... I also added some bags of rockwoll insulation to fill the opening behind the stage. I still think the sub needs some work. How does the actual volume of the sub affect the respose show? Any chance I have it turn down too low? I can't see to make the center much better either.


Latest attempt (sub 1/3 of way from left wall).












First try at behind the stage. (Sub and Center in middle--no rockwoll)











Room Layout


----------



## DssConman

Hey Guys,


I uploaded the latest firmware to my D2v and all went fine. However, when I try to use the Setup Editor V2.02 it says that it is uploading the settings from the unit but they don't appear when I look at the various tabs.


Has anyone else tried to use the setup editor after the firmware update?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/18985276
> 
> 
> Ok. I've moved the center and sub around in a few positions. I tried the sub in the back of the room and on the right side. Results were much worse, so I moved it back behind the stage about 1/3 of the way from the left wall. Here is the best I could do.... I also added some bags of rockwoll insulation to fill the opening behind the stage. I still think the sub needs some work. How does the actual volume of the sub affect the respose show? Any chance I have it turn down too low? I can't see to make the center much better either.
> 
> 
> Latest attempt (sub 1/3 of way from left wall).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First try at behind the stage. (Sub and Center in middle--no rockwoll)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Room Layout



The response you got from the first sub position was your best. You are still 10 dB lower at the 100 Hz region. This is a huge drop which reduces the impact you feel. I understand compromise, but you've lost a lot moving it from your original position. Sub positioning is very touchy and can vary by inches. You can use the single speaker measurement feature in the beta ARC to test sub positioning without doing a full measurement. Might be worth it. I had a similar problem and my charts looked a lot like yours. What you hear and feel should be quite different from your two positions.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18985037
> 
> 
> Ok, Bob, I know what the problem is with the excruciatingly loud frequency sweep tones.
> 
> 
> When I first installed ARC v2.4.12, I was using my old D2. However, when my new D2v arrived, I simply replaced the 2 calibration files, forgetting that the program was installed specifically for the D2. A stupid mistake!
> 
> 
> I selected D2v for the reinstallation and all is well now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben



I'm glad it's working, but what you are saying is quite a surprise to me.


As far as I know, the only thing that varies in the ARC installation is which Manual(s) it copies into the installed location. I don't think there's such a thing as a D2v specific installation as far as the software and calibration files.


Perhaps you had a bad download copy the first time you installed it? Or perhaps something is different about the install for V2.4.12?

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18985579
> 
> 
> I'm glad it's working, but what you are saying is quite a surprise to me.
> 
> 
> As far as I know, the only thing that varies in the ARC installation is which Manual(s) it copies into the installed location. I don't think there's such a thing as a D2v specific installation as far as the software and calibration files.
> 
> 
> Perhaps you had a bad download copy the first time you installed it? Or perhaps something is different about the install for V2.4.12?
> 
> --Bob



I don't really know, Bob. It could have been a bad download/installation. Or there could be something different for each preamp. Maybe Nick can clarify.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DssConman* /forum/post/18985285
> 
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> 
> I uploaded the latest firmware to my D2v and all went fine. However, when I try to use the Setup Editor V2.02 it says that it is uploading the settings from the unit but they don't appear when I look at the various tabs.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else tried to use the setup editor after the firmware update?



Setup Editor (view and change Setup menu settings from your PC) has not yet been updated to know about the changes in the Setup menu due to Dolby Volume. So it won't work.


You'll need to make Setup menu changes using the processor's own UI.


Make and restore backup copies of the Setup menu using Settings Backup utility (found in the ARC install kit's Utilities folder).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/18985652
> 
> 
> I don't really know, Bob. It could have been a bad download/installation. Or there could be something different for each preamp. Maybe Nick can clarify.
> 
> 
> Ben



I just tried a fresh install of ARC V2.4.12 from a fresh download to see if it might also cure the strange Measured results at high frequencies. I used Windows Add/Remove programs to delete the prior install and then went into the Anthem folder in Windows > Program Files to also delete the calibration files left behind after such an uninstall. I manually copied my individual license and mic calibration files into the install kit prior to running Setup to do the install.


Unfortunately the new install seems to have the same, odd, results for Measured values at high frequencies.


While I was at it, I checked the text put up by the installer and it still says you are only selecting which manuals to install. And note that you can select for more than one flavor of manual to be installed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

barhoram,

Although Jayray is likely correct that your recent poorer sub results are due to the new sub positioning, it would also be wise to double check that you didn't accidentally engage the sub's internal crossover in the course of moving it, as that too will give you the kind of roll off you are now seeing.

--Bob


----------



## DssConman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18985728
> 
> 
> Setup Editor (view and change Setup menu settings from your PC) has not yet been updated to know about the changes in the Setup menu due to Dolby Volume. So it won't work.
> 
> 
> You'll need to make Setup menu changes using the processor's own UI.
> 
> 
> Make and restore backup copies of the Setup menu using Settings Backup utility (found in the ARC install kit's Utilities folder).
> 
> --Bob



ok thanks


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18985735
> 
> 
> I just tried a fresh install of ARC V2.4.12 from a fresh download to see if it might also cure the strange Measured results at high frequencies. I used Windows Add/Remove programs to delete the prior install and then went into the Anthem folder in Windows > Program Files to also delete the calibration files left behind after such an uninstall. I manually copied my individual license and mic calibration files into the install kit prior to running Setup to do the install.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately the new install seems to have the same, odd, results for Measured values at high frequencies.
> 
> 
> While I was at it, I checked the text put up by the installer and it still says you are only selecting which manuals to install. And note that you can select for more than one flavor of manual to be installed.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

From 5kHz upwards, I think the measurement is not accurate at all. I seem to see the same effect on most, if not all the charts posted here. If the charts are accurate, we should all be hearing severe loss in the high frequencies area, but we are not, are we?. That's why I don't see the point in trying to correct above 5kHz. In any case, I find that correcting the lows and mids brings the greatest improvement in the sound.


As for the ARC issue, looks like my problem was due to a bad install then. All the same, it's a strange coincidence, just when I switched to a new D2v. It was working fine with my old D2. If you remember, there are one or two other posters out there having the same problem too. As I said, maybe Nick can confirm.


By the way, thanks for lending a listening ear.

Ben


----------



## barhoram

Ok. Pulled the sub out from behind the screen wall--back to it's original position. Response looks pretty much like it did originally. I've got a couple of feet to play with moving it up the side wall before I get to the chairs. Perhaps I can make the response a bit flatter. Is such a dropoff after 100Hz typical? How does the curve look to others now? Any other suggestions on improving it?


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18985741
> 
> 
> barhoram,
> 
> Although Jayray is likely correct that your recent poorer sub results are due to the new sub positioning, it would also be wise to double check that you didn't accidentally engage the sub's internal crossover in the course of moving it, as that too will give you the kind of roll off you are now seeing.
> 
> --Bob




Checked. Its preset 6 (EQ off) on the DD15. Crossover shows OFF in the menu. However, things like slope, etc still have a value. Am I OK as long as the crossover for preset 6 is OFF?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Barhoram,

What you've got now is fine for the sub. Don't let the Room Gain hump confuse you. Look where the sub crosses below the basic volume level of the solution. In your case you are good at 100Hz and only a couple dB down at 120Hz which is as far as LFE goes anyway. So no worries. ARC had to actually pull it back a bit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/18986183
> 
> 
> Checked. Its preset 6 (EQ off) on the DD15. Crossover shows OFF in the menu. However, things like slope, etc still have a value. Am I OK as long as the crossover for preset 6 is OFF?



Yes.


If you highlight the crossover at the upper left of the table in your DD15 and press Reset you'll turn all of that off for all presets.


Anyway, your latest chart shows the problem is not the internal crossover in the sub. It is just positioning as Jayray suggested.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Barhoram,

Your new chart looks good for the sub as Bob has indicated. Have fun









John


----------



## budeone

I installed ARC (beta) and all seems well other than when I just listen normally the Anthem is set to +22.


Its been like that for quite a long time.


With the new version I have to get to about +10 for the same sound as it was at +22.


Is this a change?


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/18986573
> 
> 
> Barhoram,
> 
> Your new chart looks good for the sub as Bob has indicated. Have fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Yes. After a listening session, I would have to agree. Much more punch and feel to the bass even at modeate levels. Can't wait to fire up a Blu-Ray this evening. Thanks for all of the help.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/18987174
> 
> 
> Yes. After a listening session, I would have to agree. Much more punch and feel to the bass even at modeate levels. Can't wait to fire up a Blu-Ray this evening. Thanks for all of the help.



Glad to have helped. Your room is looking very nice, enjoy.


John


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/18987121
> 
> 
> I installed ARC (beta) and all seems well other than when I just listen normally the Anthem is set to +22.
> 
> 
> Its been like that for quite a long time.
> 
> 
> With the new version I have to get to about +10 for the same sound as it was at +22.
> 
> 
> Is this a change?



I'm experiencing the same thing. I did the 2.10 update to my 50V the same time I tried the beta ARC so I wasn't sure which one is causing this. I haven't had the time to go back to the release version of ARC. I replaced my subs too so I don't have any old measurements to make the process quick.


One other thing I noticed is that my surrounds were set a little weak.


----------



## budeone

"One other thing I noticed is that my surrounds were set a little weak."


Mine too, very.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

How are you measuring this? NOTE: As stated here many times, you can't use the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration to validate the volume trims after setting up ARC because those tones don't include the boosts or cuts implemented by the Room Correction processing. The trims ARC Uploads are calculated assuming Room Correction will be active. So testing using those test tones will produce answers that are close but not exact.


You can use a calibration disc if you know that it has a test that puts out equivalent tone levels for each speaker, and also know that your player is not itself altering the channel volume trims.


The calibration disc test must be a multi-channel track (5.1 if you have a 5.1 speaker setup, 7.1 if you have a 7.1 speaker setup). Connect audio via HDMI to avoid level trims players have to do when mixing analog audio output. You must have THX OFF and Dolby Volume OFF for the player Source while doing such a check. And of course Room EQ (ARC) must be ON.


ARC mic position #1 is the one used by ARC to set the volume trims. That's why it needs to be centered.


Also make sure you have not accidentally turned on any of the "temporary" trim adjustments available using the remote. To clear all of those at once, just to be sure, go into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults (if you lose video, continue using the Front Panel display).

3) Reload Saved User Settings


The temporary volume trims are not saved, so this resets all of them.

--Bob


----------



## Flugel

After upgrading to 2.10, I set Dolby Volume to "On" for my TV & Movie watching sources. Bob (or others), do you have a recommended setting (other than the default of 9, which seems too high) for me to try prior to doing my own experimenting?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Flugel* /forum/post/18989367
> 
> 
> After upgrading to 2.10, I set Dolby Volume to "On" for my TV & Movie watching sources. Bob (or others), do you have a recommended setting (other than the default of 9, which seems too high) for me to try prior to doing my own experimenting?



I'm currently using 5 when I use it at all, but I can't say that I've done a lot of experimenting to see how it changes with that setting.


I've asked Anthem to make it easier to experiment with this by putting it under the "0" key as well. I.e., press "0" once and you can view and change the current state of Dolby Volume. Press it twice and if DV is On or Cinema then you can view and adjust the Leveling setting. If DV is Off then you can view and adjust the older Dynamics setting (as is the case in the current firmware).


That way, folks could play with different Leveling settings more easily. Keep in mind that you need to give DV some time to adjust after you change Leveling. You can also set different Leveling values on different Sources, which is another way to set things up for experimentation -- i.e., set up a new Source which is identical except for the different Leveling setting, then flip between two Sources.

--Bob


----------



## esander3

Guys,


I have an AVM-50 with arc, which I have used several times in the past. I recently re-platformed my HTPC with Windows 7, which has the old ARC loaded, but never used. I just uninstalled the original software and installed the new ARC, but when I run the program, I get an error, Could not find a valid Anthem processor.


I have the 2 sn files in the program director. Do they need to be in a different location for the new software?


At this point, I don't know if it is my computer hardware not configured correctly, or the software not installed properly. Please help.


Thanks,


Ed


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/18989547
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> 
> I have an AVM-50 with arc, which I have used several times in the past. I recently re-platformed my HTPC with Windows 7, which has the old ARC loaded, but never used. I just uninstalled the original software and installed the new ARC, but when I run the program, I get an error, Could not find a valid Anthem processor.
> 
> 
> I have the 2 sn files in the program director. Do they need to be in a different location for the new software?
> 
> 
> At this point, I don't know if it is my computer hardware not configured correctly, or the software not installed properly. Please help.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Ed



The two numbered files need to be in Windows > Program Files in the same Anthem Room Correction folder as the installed version of the ARC application itself.


If you copy them into the downloaded installer folder in the same location as the Setup.Exe installer program, Setup will also see to it that they get moved into Program Files while it does the install.


However, a failure to find the processor more commonly means your serial connection is not working.


If you are using a USB/Serial adapter, make sure you have the latest driver specific to Windows 7 installed for it.


To use the ARC application under Windows 7, you must have ARC V2.4 or later installed.

--Bob


----------



## esander3

I have the files in the Program file directory on my computer and have the ARC 2.4.12 program. Also, my computer has an actual serial port. How do I need to configure the com port for it to work correctly? Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/18989628
> 
> 
> I have the files in the Program file directory on my computer and have the ARC 2.4.12 program. Also, my computer has an actual serial port. How do I need to configure the com port for it to work correctly? Thanks.



COM port 1-6 (not higher), 8 bits, 2 stop bits (typical -- often works with other stop bit settings), baud 9600 or 19200 (typical), no flow control.


We've had reports here that some firewall settings can also interfere with proper serial port operation. So try temporarily turning off any software firewall in your Windows setup.


And check in Windows Device Manager to see if it is reporting any problems on the COM port -- perhaps a resource conflict with some other piece of hardware in your computer.


Make sure you are using a straight through serial cable (pins 1-9 connect directly to pins 1-9). The identical looking "null modem" cable that swaps one pair of pins will not work.


If you have been using the serial port on the Anthem as a remote control, be sure to return the serial settings in the Setup menu back to the factory default settings before running ARC -- see the picture in the manual for that menu. (One of the reasons you need to Reload Factory Defaults prior to doing a firmware install is to insure this as well.)


ETA: Also, make sure you are actually running the installed copy of the ARC application -- not the one sitting in the install kit you downloaded. The installer will put a shortcut on your desktop pointing to the installed copy.

--Bob


----------



## davoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18989542
> 
> 
> I'm currently using 5 when I use it at all, but I can't say that I've done a lot of experimenting to see how it changes with that setting.
> 
> 
> I've asked Anthem to make it easier to experiment with this by putting it under the "0" key as well. I.e., press "0" once and you can view and change the current state of Dolby Volume. Press it twice and if DV is On or Cinema then you can view and adjust the Leveling setting. If DV is Off then you can view and adjust the older Dynamics setting (as is the case in the current firmware).
> 
> 
> That way, folks could play with different Leveling settings more easily. Keep in mind that you need to give DV some time to adjust after you change Leveling. You can also set different Leveling values on different Sources, which is another way to set things up for experimentation -- i.e., set up a new Source which is identical except for the different Leveling setting, then flip between two Sources.
> 
> --Bob



I too use a setting of 5 for DV with my Directv input and it does a nice job of toning down commercial volumes and leveling channel changes. I don't use it with any other inputs.


----------



## esander3

Thanks, I had it configured for my remote. Forgot that I had to reconfigure the AVM to make it work. All is fine now.


Ed


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/18991056
> 
> 
> Thanks, I had it configured for my remote. Forgot that I had to reconfigure the AVM to make it work. All is fine now.
> 
> 
> Ed



Good. That's the only real downside to using the Serial connection for remote control. You need to remember to put the settings back to normal prior to using Anthem's application software.

--Bob


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18988847
> 
> 
> How are you measuring this? NOTE: As stated here many times, you can't use the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration to validate the volume trims after setting up ARC because those tones don't include the boosts or cuts implemented by the Room Correction processing. The trims ARC Uploads are calculated assuming Room Correction will be active. So testing using those test tones will produce answers that are close but not exact.
> 
> 
> --Bob



In my case I wasn't measuring. I was listening to the Brothers In Arms SACD when I noticed it. The track Money For Nothing has a guitar that circles the room. It would drop out at the right surround and the left was weak compared to the mains. No temp settings were in effect, EQ is on and DV was disabled. I added 3db to the right and 1 db to the left and everything sounded good at that point. I'm not ready to condemn the beta ARC yet as I still have some troubleshooting left to do.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU* /forum/post/18991763
> 
> 
> In my case I wasn't measuring. I was listening to the Brothers In Arms SACD when I noticed it. The track Money For Nothing has a guitar that circles the room. It would drop out at the right surround and the left was weak compared to the mains. No temp settings were in effect, EQ is on and DV was disabled. I added 3db to the right and 1 db to the left and everything sounded good at that point. I'm not ready to condemn the beta ARC yet as I still have some troubleshooting left to do.



It could be the recording of course (a calibration disc like the AIX Blu-Ray would settle that), but while diagnosing this double check that you were playing the multi-channel track on that disc and not a stereo track (an SACD setting in the player). If playing a stereo track, then what gets sent to the surround speakers is a function of the audio surround processing mode in effect.


Also check that you don't have volume trims set in the player and that all speakers are set to large in the player. Such settings should only affect analog outputs from the player, but in the past some players have exhibited bugs where the settings intended for their analog outputs also altered their digital outputs.


If you ARE using analog input from the player, then there are other simple tests such as swapping the LS/RS input feeds at the back of the Anthem (with the original, ARC chosen volume trims in effect). If the 3dB problem moves to the other surround speaker then you know it is the player that is doing something wrong.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

You know the saying about let your ears tell you what's really going on and not your eyes is such a true statement. If you go solely off of the charts produced by ARC v2.4.12, you would think that the highs are completely gone; but, that's so far from the truth. I am really enjoying the sound produced by ARC v2.4.12.


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/18992592
> 
> 
> You know the saying about let your ears tell you what's really going on and not your eyes is such a true statement. If you go solely off of the charts produced by ARC v2.4.12, you would think that the highs are completely gone; but, that's so far from the truth. I am really enjoying the sound produced by ARC v2.4.12.



I totally agree, I finally got around to taking new measurements and this is a definate step up especially in the low end.


----------



## DssConman

I'm a bit confused. I ran ARC 2.4.12 and it uploaded the results to my D2v. The targets tab on ARC show a subwoofer cutoff at 120 but after the upload to my unit the setup screen shows the sub cutoff at 70. Did I miss something?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DssConman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm a bit confused. I ran ARC 2.4.12 and it uploaded the results to my D2v. The targets tab on ARC show a subwoofer cutoff at 120 but after the upload to my unit the setup screen shows the sub cutoff at 70. Did I miss something?



They are 2 different things. The Cutoff in the Targets window is how high up ARC assigns correction resources (for LFE for example). The Cross over in Setup has to do with bass steering and matching sub response to the main speakers for steered bass


For the sub, these can be different. For the other speakers ARC always uses the same value for both.


This is normal.

--Bob


----------



## DssConman

Got it. Does ARC make the correct settings for sub phase & polarity?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DssConman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got it. Does ARC make the correct settings for sub phase & polarity?



No, you must set those yourself. Also set speaker distances. And set whether your surrounds are Dipole or not.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




ninja12 said:


> You know the saying about let your ears tell you what's really going on and not your eyes is such a true statement. If you go solely off of the charts produced by ARC v2.4.12, you would think that the highs are completely gone; but, that's so far from the truth. I am really enjoying the sound produced by ARC v2.4.12.[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> ninja12 and billatlakegeorge,
> 
> This is exactly what I have noticed so it must be what they were trying to do at Anthem. It is the subtley clarity that was a surprise although it could be the correction of my centre and front right speaker that is doing it.
> 
> John


----------



## Milt99

FWIW, I set my ARC max freq. to 2000 just below the xover to the ribbon tweeter some time ago.

Never sounded better.

I do not trust the measurements above mid-freqs.

Odd thing is the graphs show ARC applying "correction" above what I've set the cutoff to.


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

please a little advice and compassion

yes i have read alot of this thread

read online manual for d2

i had to send my d2 back because the hdmi jacks were broken , bought it used , and i get it back and i still can't get a picture from the d2 to my tv i am using a ps3 as a blue ray player any ideas ?

thanks in advance bert


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/18995432
> 
> 
> FWIW, I set my ARC max freq. to 2000 just below the xover to the ribbon tweeter some time ago.
> 
> Never sounded better.
> 
> I do not trust the measurements above mid-freqs.
> 
> Odd thing is the graphs show ARC applying "correction" above what I've set the cutoff to.



Milt99:


Would you happen to have Sunfire ribbon speakers to set ARC that low? Just curious....and sorry for the OT


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/18995694
> 
> 
> please a little advice and compassion
> 
> yes i have read alot of this thread
> 
> read online manual for d2
> 
> i had to send my d2 back because the hdmi jacks were broken , bought it used , and i get it back and i still can't get a picture from the d2 to my tv i am using a ps3 as a blue ray player any ideas ?
> 
> thanks in advance bert



Start by using only the video that's generated internally in the D2. That would include the Setup menu and the test charts found in the Video Source Adjust menu.


Can you get those to display on your TV? If not then your problem is entirely on the output side of the D2 as these pieces of video are independent of any Source.


Don't even bother with a Source device until you can get those to display.


Using the Front Panel display, go into Setup and Reset Factory Defaults. Then go into the Video Output portion of Setup and try setting changes there to see if you can get video. Remember that you have to exit the Video Output portion AND confirm that you want to make the changes as you do so, before such changes will actually take effect.


Try 480p video output (not 480i) as it is the "simplest" HDMI resolution. Try both settings for HDMI Sync. Try explicit video data format choices (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of Auto. Make sure your display is actually set to view the HDMI input you think you are using.


Once you can get video on your display, then refine the Video Output settings to get the CORRECT video on your display. Then, and ONLY then, start futzing with source devices.


The PS3 has an automatic setup option for its HDMI video output. That's what you should use. There is a procedure that will reset the video output of the PS3 back to simple, factory default settings so you can start over with the PS3 setup, but unfortunately I don't remember it off the top of my head. Check the PS3 FAQ sticky thread in the Blu-Ray players forum. It's something like turning off the rear power switch and then holding the ON button up front continuously while you turn that rear switch back on. But check the FAQ to get the real instructions.

--Bob


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

Thank you bob

i will try tomorrow


bert


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18992434
> 
> 
> It could be the recording of course (a calibration disc like the AIX Blu-Ray would settle that), but while diagnosing this double check that you were playing the multi-channel track on that disc and not a stereo track (an SACD setting in the player). If playing a stereo track, then what gets sent to the surround speakers is a function of the audio surround processing mode in effect.
> 
> 
> Also check that you don't have volume trims set in the player and that all speakers are set to large in the player. Such settings should only affect analog outputs from the player, but in the past some players have exhibited bugs where the settings intended for their analog outputs also altered their digital outputs.
> 
> 
> If you ARE using analog input from the player, then there are other simple tests such as swapping the LS/RS input feeds at the back of the Anthem (with the original, ARC chosen volume trims in effect). If the 3dB problem moves to the other surround speaker then you know it is the player that is doing something wrong.
> 
> --Bob



The test tones from AIX confirmed what my ears told me. The player is an Oppo BDP 83 connected via HDMI, so no need to mess with the speaker settings there. The setting for SACD is to default to the multichannel track and the display on the 50V confirmed that was what I was getting. I don't use any of the "DSP tricks" for music or movies. I only listen to the channels that the disk gives me.


So far I've tried a reload of the ARC results. I still have to do a new set of measurments with the beta and if that doesn't work, a set of measurements with the 2.4 release version. It's been so darn hot here, I haven't been interested in killing the A/C in order to do them.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Very strange. Getting the speaker volume trims right is the simplest part of the job ARC does, and something they must have checked in their in house testing.


If you get the same wrong results with a re-Measure you should definitely email the details to Anthem.


Send them your ARC results file (not just screen captures of the charts) and tell them what you found in Setup after the Upload for volume trims and cross overs. The trick is to figure out whether the problem is a faulty Measurement, a bad Calculation based on that raw data, or a faulty Upload which was not caught by verification.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/18996016
> 
> 
> Milt99:
> 
> 
> Would you happen to have Sunfire ribbon speakers to set ARC that low? Just curious....and sorry for the OT



No my speakers have LCY ribbons.

For whatever reason, I think it's that the ARC mic\\software is unreliable at higher frequencies, it measures my upper frequencies as down by 6db.

I've blown a few ribbons because of the over boosting.

It even over extended the throw in one of my mid-woofs and this was in a rear surround.

After talking to xover designer, the speaker designer, reading several room correction articles and doing my own listening on music, I decided to lower the correction to below xover point for the ribbons.

Sounds just fine.

Awhile ago I was experimenting with 10-20k and there was a definite "tizz" to the high end.

I then lowered to the default and still blew a ribbon on the beach landing sequence in Saving Private Ryan.

I know my experience is extreme but it still happened and it shouldn't.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/18997841
> 
> 
> No my speakers have LCY ribbons.
> 
> For whatever reason, I think it's that the ARC mic\\software is unreliable at higher frequencies, it measures my upper frequencies as down by 6db.
> 
> I've blown a few ribbons because of the over boosting.
> 
> It even over extended the throw in one of my mid-woofs and this was in a rear surround.
> 
> After talking to xover designer, the speaker designer, reading several room correction articles and doing my own listening on music, I decided to lower the correction to below xover point for the ribbons.
> 
> Sounds just fine.
> 
> Awhile ago I was experimenting with 10-20k and there was a definite "tizz" to the high end.
> 
> I then lowered to the default and still blew a ribbon on the beach landing sequence in Saving Private Ryan.
> 
> I know my experience is extreme but it still happened and it shouldn't.



Thanks Milt:


I was curious as my Sunfire ribbons from the CRM2 & CRM3 satellites are internally crossed over between 2 - 2.5KHz. Still using the current version of ARC and was curious if i should change over to the beta version. Based off your answer(thanks!), I think I will wait until the bugs have been worked out.


David


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE




Bob Pariseau said:


> BOB
> 
> 
> yes i did have signal from the d2 as in set up menu. did all u said still nothing . called andrew , this morning , at anthem he said , maybe, because i had the unit plugged in to a power conditioner it could have erased the software ? so he gave me the new beta for the d2 . problem is when i went to use the keyspan 19hs it will not attach to the d2 because of matching screw post on both units , WOW
> 
> 
> THANKS BERT


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/18996072
> 
> 
> i went to use the keyspan 19hs it will not attach to the d2 because of matching screw post on both units , WOW
> 
> 
> THANKS BERT



You attach it to a serial CABLE


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/19002572
> 
> 
> 
> BOB
> 
> 
> yes i did have signal from the d2 as in set up menu. did all u said still nothing . called andrew , this morning , at anthem he said , maybe, because i had the unit plugged in to a power conditioner it could have erased the software ? so he gave me the new beta for the d2 . problem is when i went to use the keyspan 19hs it will not attach to the d2 because of matching screw post on both units , WOW
> 
> 
> THANKS BERT



Don't attach the Keyspan to the back of the D2. Attach it to the USB port on your computer and run a straight-through serial cable from it to the back of the D2.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't attach the Keyspan to the back of the D2. Attach it to the USB port on your computer and run a straight-through serial cable from it to the back of the D2.
> 
> --Bob



I have a quick question on using the rs232 for remote control. Can I use a straight serial cable or will I need a null modem cable?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/19003157
> 
> 
> I have a quick question on using the rs232 for remote control. Can I use a straight serial cable or will I need a null modem cable?



Interesting question. I don't see it documented anywhere, but I would imagine a straight through cable is the correct choice.


Typically the only odd thing you need to do to set up RS-232 control is to turn on the setting in Setup that echoes back stuff to the control box.


There's also a setting in Triggers if you want to leave control of the 12 volt Triggers to the external RS-232 control box.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/19003157
> 
> 
> I have a quick question on using the rs232 for remote control. Can I use a straight serial cable or will I need a null modem cable?



The D2 is a straight cable for RS232, now what controller are you using? If you use a URC MSC-400, this unit uses a null cable, so you would need a null adapter. Find out what your controller uses, and your off to the races.

All this info is in the provided manuals with each unit...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" ARC V2.4.13 Now on Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem tech support put "Test" (Beta) ARC V2.4.13 on their password protected download page this evening. Release notes for changes since the current "official" version (V2.4) now read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.4.13 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for upper-frequency measurement. (Note: Recalibration data is now embedded).
> 
> 
> 2. (MRX only) Fix for subwoofer level calibration.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.12 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Added advanced controls in Targets panel for the sub's low end rolloff.
> 
> 
> 2. Room Gain limited to 4 dB maximum (previously 6 dB).
> 
> 
> 3. Added MRX series AV receiver compatibility.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.11 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Added speaker positioning helper under Advanced mode / Tools / Quick Measure. This sweeps the selected speaker continuously to instantly show uncorrected frequency response graph. This can be most useful for finding a location for the subwoofer, since bass resonances vary greatly according to speaker positioning. Approximately ten sweeps are needed before graph is shown - after that update is live.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Quick Measure resets crossover and level calibration setup menus. If you won't be following Quick Measure with a full ARC procedure, and your existing crossover and level settings in the setup menu will be needed afterward, save or record them first.
> 
> 
> 2. Added compatibility for MRX 300/500/700 receivers. If loading a file that was creating using AVM, Statement D, or MRX 900, ARC will fail the upload then ask if you would like to convert the file to MRX 300/500/700 format to allow loading. Give it a different file name when prompted if you would like to keep the original file.
> 
> 
> 3. Added Flat correction range option when speakers are set to full range in Targets. To access Flat setting, select Full Range X-Over, then set frequency lower than 25 Hz or type "f" in the frequency window. (Also remember that typing "n" in frequency window disables the speaker in that configuration, as long as it is not Fronts, without discarding the measurement in case you would like to use it again it later).
> 
> 
> 4. Refined recalibration data - measurement graph may appear different by up to 1 dB in small areas when opening older file with this version. This will also cause corrected curve to have some differences.



As the release notes suggest, there is no longer a separate "Recalibration Data" or "New Recalibration Data" file included in the install kit. Presumably, changes were made to insure that proper, base calibration data actually gets applied to the mic Measurements. The separate file must have caused some issues.


I'm pretty sure it is still essential that your two individualized ARC files get installed with ARC. These are the licensing file and the calibration data file specific to your ARC mic. They are the two files with names made up of numbers (the unit serial number and the ARC mic serial number) found on your original ARC install CD. They need to end up in Windows > Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction along with the installed copy of the ARC application itself. The easiest way to do this is to copy BOTH of them into the install kit folder in the same location as the Setup.exe program (the installer), before you run Setup to perform the install. NOTE: If those two files are already in place due to a prior install, then you don't have to do anything special. They survive the new install.


Note also the addition of an item to the V2.4.12 change list that Room Gain detection now has a built in upper limit of 4dB. Nick tells me that due to details of the processing this is why many of us had Room Gain values of just a hair under 4dB -- identical values for all of us. I believe it is still possible to "Force" a higher Room Gain if you feel that gives you a better solution.


There are no changes in the Manuals or Utilities included in the ARC install kit. There is still no Setup Editor (view and change Setup menu settings from a PC) compatible with the menu changes for Dolby Volume in the V2.10 processor firmware.


As always, keep in mind that "test" software is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I installed ARC V2.4.13 and then fed it Measurement files taken with ARC V2.4 and also with ARC V2.4.11.


In BOTH cases a new message comes up saying that you can use this older data, but it is not 100% compatible with the current version, and recommending that you re-Measure instead. This is a good addition.


If you tell ARC to proceed, it does some processing on the older data and brings up the Measurement charts. It is evident that the high frequency problem is indeed resolved. One small concern is that viewing the V2.4.11 data in V2.4.13 makes it look like the 6dB level bug is back. But we won't really know that until we start getting reports from folks who have taken new Measurements (after properly setting Test Level to begin with).


Anyway, we should all plan on setting aside some time to do a new Measurement pass and see what we get!

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The D2 is a straight cable for RS232, now what controller are you using? If you use a URC MSC-400, this unit uses a null cable, so you would need a null adapter. Find out what your controller uses, and your off to the races.
> 
> All this info is in the provided manuals with each unit...



I'm going to be using an itach gateway from GC.


----------



## jayray

I've done a new measurement with 2.4.13 and the levels are, as Bob said, quite high. My sub measurement and calculation seem better but I'll have to listen to be sure. High freq. do seem to be fixed but 5K still looks good and should sound good too. Calculation time seems longer now approx. 1 min for both movie and music. Calculations from previous measurements look very much the same compared to new measurement.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19006906
> 
> 
> I've done a new measurement with 2.4.13 and the levels are, as Bob said, quite high. My sub measurement and calculation seem better but I'll have to listen to be sure. High freq. do seem to be fixed but 5K still looks good and should sound good too. Calculation time seems longer now approx. 1 min for both movie and music. Calculations from previous measurements look very much the same compared to new measurement.
> 
> John



by "the levels are, as Bob said, quite high." mean that the 6db boost is back?


----------



## Texas steve

so now the question will be - how does it sound? I believe as we all did that 2.4.12 had some sound improvements (bass and more clarity). Let us know if this is still there.


I too just downloaded .13 but wont have time to reARC till tonight.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19006906
> 
> 
> I've done a new measurement with 2.4.13 and the levels are, as Bob said, quite high. My sub measurement and calculation seem better but I'll have to listen to be sure. High freq. do seem to be fixed but 5K still looks good and should sound good too. Calculation time seems longer now approx. 1 min for both movie and music. Calculations from previous measurements look very much the same compared to new measurement.
> 
> John


----------



## jayray

Levels seem higher but hard to tell. LFE is lower as confirmed with AIX sweep. Sounds excellent and impact just a little more. Texas Steve beware









John


----------



## Texas steve

Ok, so i got home ran the ARC, 1st run I set my levels at 75DB and the new .13 placed it above 90DB on the charts. So I ran again this time at 70DB and you can see attached. I have not lisented yet.


I lowered the Ref level to -2 on ARC Advanced due to the high result, Arc in this version showed no room correction, but previous version was almost 2. so after playing arround with chart attached is what I found "looks" best.

*UPDATE:* I have now listened and the volume level on the ARC charts (almost 90) do not represent reality. I had to crank up my volume on the D2v much higher. Ok so this is a issue. However as Jayray said the bass is even more imporved (tighter). The clarity is still there. I cant tell if the correction at the higher freq are actually corrected or just addressed on the ARC chart. There certinaly is no loss of clarity.

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jayray* 
Levels seem higher but hard to tell. LFE is lower as confirmed with AIX sweep. Sounds excellent and impact just a little more. Texas Steve beware









John

 

ARCversion 4 13 8510.doc 362.5k . file


----------



## usxplong

I switched from HDMI to component source and lost picture. I had to turn d2v off and on to get picture. I thought this was fixed by fw 2.10?

Any idea?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If the charts are showing solutions with a high basic volume level, give it a listen before you change anything to bring that back down. It could very well be it is just a problem with the charting itself.


With the old 6dB level bug it was pretty clear that the actual solution really was 6dB too high, and thus it made sense to try to bring it down closer to 75dB.


What's going on with V2.4.13 may be entirely different.


Also remember to zero the other lines in Setup > Level Calibration before attempting to set Test Level. And "just in case", I suggest you enter into Setup from a current Source selected that happens to have Dolby Volume OFF. We don't know that there is a problem there, but DV is the new kid on the block so best to keep things simple.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19008076
> 
> 
> I switched from HDMI to component source and lost picture. I had to turn d2v off and on to get picture. I thought this was fixed by fw 2.10?
> 
> Any idea?



Get the details to Anthem tech support, particularly if you can reproduce the failure.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

From these first charts it looks like the charted level may be 10dB too high. It is possible that all that is going on here is that they decided to make a change: To now chart a solution corresponding to a 0dB Main Volume setting instead of the -10dB Main Volume setting that we are used to.


In other words, setting 75dB SPL for Test Level (which corresponds to normal listening at -10dB on the Main Volume) would CORRECTLY result in an 85dB basic volume level in the ARC solution charts because what's being charted assumes listening use at 0dB on the Main Volume knob.


Again, we'll have to load some results and do some listening to figure this out.


So far this is all just guess work.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks Bob. I had already lowered and re-ARCed. And I had as you mentioned done the level cal before. I think the charts are showing a 6+db vs actual. Thats what my ears and now now elevated volume control tell me.












> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19008263
> 
> 
> If the charts are showing solutions with a high basic volume level, give it a listen before you change anything to bring that back down. It could very well be it is just a problem with the charting itself.
> 
> 
> With the old 6dB level bug it was pretty clear that the actual solution really was 6dB too high, and thus it made sense to try to bring it down closer to 75dB.
> 
> 
> What's going on with V2.4.13 may be entirely different.
> 
> 
> Also remember to zero the other lines in Setup > Level Calibration before attempting to set Test Level. And "just in case", I suggest you enter into Setup from a current Source selected that happens to have Dolby Volume OFF. We don't know that there is a problem there, but DV is the new kid on the block so best to keep things simple.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Texas steve









Correct the "charted" level is but the actual volume is not, I had to crank it up about 10db to make up the difference

But the sound is still great











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19008310
> 
> 
> From these first charts it looks like the charted level may be 10dB too high. It is possible that all that is going on here is that they decided to make a change: To now chart a solution corresponding to a 0dB Main Volume setting instead of the -10dB Main Volume setting that we are used to.
> 
> 
> In other words, setting 75dB SPL for Test Level (which corresponds to normal listening at -10dB on the Main Volume) would CORRECTLY result in an 85dB basic volume level in the ARC solution charts because what's being charted assumes listening use at 0dB on the Main Volume knob.
> 
> 
> Again, we'll have to load some results and do some listening to figure this out.
> 
> 
> So far this is all just guess work.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19008392
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Correct the "charted" level is but the actual volume is not, I had to crank it up about 10db to make up the difference
> 
> But the sound is still great



Do you see any improvement on base vollume and extension from 2.4.12?


----------



## Texas steve

.12 was a absloute improvement in base and clarity (Jayray also noted this). For .13 I cant say - I "think" the base is a little tighter but not 100% sure.












> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19008424
> 
> 
> Do you see any improvement on base vollume and extension from 2.4.12?


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19008478
> 
> 
> .12 was a absloute improvement in base and clarity (Jayray also noted this). For .13 I cant say - I "think" the base is a little tighter but not 100% sure.



Thanks Steve,

Do you have one sub 25 or two and do you use PBK and ARC or just ARC?

Your sub chart looks superb.


----------



## Stevetd

Somebody (Bob maybe) posted a step-by-step ARC guide a few weeks ago and I've been back and forth through the last couple of month’s posts and for the life of me I cannot find it. Can someone guide me to it? Thanks.


----------



## Texas steve

only one Sub 25 that broke the bank!! Im envious of JayRay who has TWO! I hate you JayRay!! Yes I did PBK first then ARC. I was initially told by Anthem that to do PBK first will save the resources of ARC for other use and just for tweaking what PBK did. I have however seen different thoughts on this site. NOw if you have the good blessing and huge wallet (which of course would be deeply emptied) and can get two Sub25s it is suggested that you absolutely run PBK then ARC







. you can see my charts with .13 ARC below and look at the sub 25 chart


I also had to add a power line anyway so I put in a 220v as suggested for that sub. It is FABULOUS I have never head the bass like this. I had a Muse 18 (18") for years and thought it was good - Ha!!!!!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19008506
> 
> 
> Thanks Steve,
> 
> Do you have one sub 25 or two and do you use PBK and ARC or just ARC?
> 
> Your sub chart looks superb.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19009025
> 
> 
> only one Sub 25 that broke the bank!! Im envious of JayRay who has TWO! I hate you JayRay!! Yes I did PBK first then ARC. I was initially told by Anthem that to do PBK first will save the resources of ARC for other use and just for tweaking what PBK did. I have however seen different thoughts on this site. NOw if you have the good blessing and huge wallet (which of course would be deeply emptied) and can get two Sub25s it is suggested that you absolutely run PBK then ARC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . you can see my charts with .13 ARC below and look at the sub 25 chart
> 
> 
> I also had to add a power line anyway so I put in a 220v as suggested for that sub. It is FABULOUS I have never head the bass like this. I had a Muse 18 (18") for years and thought it was good - Ha!!!!!



I also have one sub 25 and didn't get the PBK based on Anthem's and others suggestions on this site that with one sub PBK is not needed. I have a big dip at 60 hz that ARC takes care of it completely but I think it is good to use PBK for the big dip and let ARC take care of the other corrections.

I think if there is not a big problem on your charts then just ARC is enough but if there is a problem then it is good to run PBK first then ARC. By the way, is there a way to delete PBK from sub 25 after it is loaded?


----------



## TJG55

Don't know exactly where it is......but is this my Steve?

Tom


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19009113
> 
> 
> I also have one sub 25 and didn't get the PBK . By the way, is there a way to delete PBK from sub 25 after it is loaded?



I think only if you have the BPK program. JayRay?


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19009118
> 
> 
> I think only if you have the BPK program. JayRay?



Steve,

If you check your speaker level by SPL on the Speaker Level calibration menue, do you have the same or almost the same sub level as your other speakers or your sub is lowered by 5-8 db?

I have this problem and somebody else reported this problem as well. I hope this is fixed in 2.4.13.


----------



## Texas steve

No sure what you mean. But I set all my levels to zero first, including the sub, then set the maiin level at 72DB, then went to the sub test tone (which I set at Zero) then adjusted the voulme on the sub till it also read 72DB on the Radio Shack meter.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19009181
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> If you check your speaker level by SPL on the Speaker Level calibration menue, do you have the same or almost the same sub level as your other speakers or your sub is lowered by 5-8 db?
> 
> I have this problem and somebody else reported this problem as well. I hope this is fixed in 2.4.13.


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/19009114
> 
> 
> Don't know exactly where it is......but is this my Steve?
> 
> Tom



*looking around* There sure is a crap load of Steves in here. Lol.


----------



## ninja12

I just ran a measurement with ARC v2.4.13. The test tones didn't appear to be any louder than the test tones from ARC v2.4.12; but, the basic volume level on the graph, for ARC v2.4.13, was 18db higher than ARC v2.4.12. The basic volume level, for ARC v2.4.13, went up to 93db on my chart. I left the test tone volume at +5.0 which is what I used for ARC v2.4.12 to achieve 75db. So, I am now going to upload this and give it a listen. BTW, the actual measurements in Red has never looked as good as they look now. I'm just a little concerned about the basic volume level being so high.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19009258
> 
> 
> No sure what you mean. But I set all my levels to zero first, including the sub, then set the maiin level at 72DB, then went to the sub test tone (which I set at Zero) then adjusted the voulme on the sub till it also read 72DB on the Radio Shack meter.



ARC loaded the speaker levels in the Speaker Level Calibration menu. So your speaker vollumes that you set zero to run ARC is no longer zero because ARC loaded the corrected vollume for each speaker. Now all of your speakers should have the same vollume if you measure by SPL (more or less). My sub level loaded by ARC is by 5-8 db lower than rest of the speakers. I was woundering if you get the same vollume level for sub (5-8 db lower) or your sub level is the same as the rest of the speakers if you measure by SPL.


----------



## Texas steve

It wont be high, its only on the graph, not in the D2v. but I have to tell you all now that I have been listening for about 1.5 hours to various stuff, this realy sounds great! Good imrovement











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19009811
> 
> 
> I just ran a measurement with ARC v2.4.13. The test tones didn't appear to be any louder than the test tones from ARC v2.4.12; but, the basic volume level on the graph, for ARC v2.4.13, was 18db higher than ARC v2.4.12. The basic volume level, for ARC v2.4.13, went up to 93db on my chart. I left the test tone volume at +5.0 which is what I used for ARC v2.4.12 to achieve 75db. So, I am now going to upload this and give it a listen. BTW, the actual measurements in Red has never looked as good as they look now. I'm just a little concerned about the basic volume level being so high.


----------



## jayray

I don't have two sub 25, unfortunately. PBK can be erased using he pbk program from paradigm. It takes less than a minute.

As for LFE diff with 2.4.13, it was deeper, as tested with AIX LFE sweep and several tests using Kung Fu Panda, transformers and Star Trek 2009. There was no doubt. As for playback volumes I still played DTS-MA at -18 dB and TrueHD at -12 dB with no discernable difference.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here are the charts for my ARC V2.4.13 run this evening.


Note that the charts make it look like ARC has produced a 92dB solution. But in fact what gets Uploaded results in a 75dB solution just as intended. So the SPL scale on the charts is either wrong, or Anthem engineering has changed what they mean by it.


I've confirmed the 75dB nature of the solution using the AIX calibration disc.


I've reported the 92dB charts as a bug to Nick at Anthem.


----------------------------------


Based on the Measurements, I decided to trust ARC's interpretation of the mic data up to 15KHz this time. I also raised the cutoff on my sub to 120Hz, and reduced the Room Gain for the Music solution by about 1dB compared to what ARC found -- which was the 4dB upper limit. (The crossovers Uploaded for the sub were 80Hz for Movie and 90Hz for Music. The Uploaded Volume trims were all right where they should be.)


There was then rather a lot of experimentation: Tweaking the cutoffs and trying minor changes of Room Gain. In general I ended up raising the cutoffs above what ARC was going to use. I'm confident in what my sub can do and I want to make sure there's at least a full octave of good correction below the cutoff for each speaker.


In any event, the result of all this tweaking looks sweet!


I've just finished uploading it and doing the calibration tests, and I'm now doing my first listening. It appears to be working quite well.


Oh I should also mention that I didn't find any significant variation between speaker levels in this solution since I know that's been of concern to some posters here.


One other change I've noticed is that after doing this Upload, if I go through the Level Calibration lines the Dolby Volume calibration line, at 0dB, now yields 75dB SPL -- meaning there's no need to change it. What that line is supposed to do is still a mystery to me, but it is nice to know that the instruction to set it to get 75dB no longer requires any change from the default 0dB setting after this ARC solution was Uploaded.


Oh yes, and one of the reasons my sub looks better is that I used Quick Measure to do some minor adjustments in its position! The live chart that Quick Measure puts up has the CORRECT SPL scale -- i.e., it was showing the sub as around 72dB at 100Hz and with a peak around 80dB. Contrast to the sub Measured curve in these charts.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Although my ARC V2.4.13 solution is sounding very good indeed by itself, I think I've got a problem with Dolby Volume. Too much bass again.


I need to do some more listening to see what's up with that.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19010570
> 
> 
> Here are the charts for my ARC V2.4.13 run this evening.
> 
> 
> Note that the charts make it look like ARC has produced a 92dB solution. But in fact what gets Uploaded results in a 75dB solution just as intended. So the SPL scale on the charts is either wrong, or Anthem engineering has changed what they mean by it.
> 
> 
> I've confirmed the 75dB nature of the solution using the AIX calibration disc.
> 
> 
> I've reported the 92dB charts as a bug to Nick at Anthem.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> Based on the Measurements, I decided to trust ARC's interpretation of the mic data up to 15KHz this time. I also raised the cutoff on my sub to 120Hz, and reduced the Room Gain for the Music solution by about 1dB compared to what ARC found -- which was the 4dB upper limit. (The crossovers Uploaded for the sub were 80Hz for Movie and 90Hz for Music. The Uploaded Volume trims were all right where they should be.)
> 
> 
> There was then rather a lot of experimentation: Tweaking the cutoffs and trying minor changes of Room Gain. In general I ended up raising the cutoffs above what ARC was going to use. I'm confident in what my sub can do and I want to make sure there's at least a full octave of good correction below the cutoff for each speaker.
> 
> 
> In any event, the result of all this tweaking looks sweet!
> 
> 
> I've just finished uploading it and doing the calibration tests, and I'm now doing my first listening. It appears to be working quite well.
> 
> 
> Oh I should also mention that I didn't find any significant variation between speaker levels in this solution since I know that's been of concern to some posters here.
> 
> 
> One other change I've noticed is that after doing this Upload, if I go through the Level Calibration lines the Dolby Volume calibration line, at 0dB, now yields 75dB SPL -- meaning there's no need to change it. What that line is supposed to do is still a mystery to me, but it is nice to know that the instruction to set it to get 75dB no longer requires any change from the default 0dB setting after this ARC solution was Uploaded.
> 
> 
> Oh yes, and one of the reasons my sub looks better is that I used Quick Measure to do some minor adjustments in its position! The live chart that Quick Measure puts up has the CORRECT SPL scale -- i.e., it was showing the sub as around 72dB at 100Hz and with a peak around 80dB. Contrast to the sub Measured curve in these charts.
> 
> --Bob



I see that you have the 18db increase, for the basic volume level, also just as I do. If you set Reference Level Offset to 0, your basic volume level will be 93db instead of 92db. I did do some listening last night for about an hour with 2.4.13, and I didn't hear anything that was negative about the sound. Actually, the overall sound was very clean and tight. I'm just a little confused about what basic volume level we should be shooting for.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Like I said, I think the SPL scale on the charts is wrong. I believe I've actually got a 75 dB solution now. You probably do as well. Meaning don't change anything just yet.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19011455
> 
> 
> Like I said, I think the SPL scale on the charts is wrong. I believe I've actually got a 75 dB solution now. You probably do as well. Meaning don't change anything just yet.
> 
> --Bob



I'm not sure about the 75db solution; but, I am sure that it sounds very good. And no, I'm not going to change anything at the moment.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If you have a calibration test track you are familiar with (I use the AIX disc), you can check. If the same Main Volume setting produces 75 dB SPL from that test track now, then you've got a 75dB solution now despite what the charts ate showing.


You may not remember the precise volume setting that worked when you tried that track before, but an 18dB difference should be pretty blatant.


I've tested with AIX and I think my solution really is 75dB now.

--Bob


----------



## abc999

Just ran 2.4.14 a few hours ago and made some measurements. Graph was at 90dB and the graphs resolution is at 10dB per interval resulting in a finer looking measured curve. Just watched a TV show and the sound was roughly the same as before. No critical listening yet with reference material. And Yes, I lost 2dB of room gain again from 2.68 to 0.68.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19011529
> 
> 
> If you have a calibration test track you are familiar with (I use the AIX disc), you can check. If the same Main Volume setting produces 75 dB SPL from that test track now, then you've got a 75dB solution now despite what the charts ate showing.
> 
> 
> You may not remember the precise volume setting that worked when you tried that track before, but an 18dB difference should be pretty blatant.
> 
> 
> I've tested with AIX and I think my solution really is 75dB now.
> 
> --Bob



Ok. I will try it with the AIX Disc that came with my Oppo BDP-83. I'm pretty sure it's 75db or close to it based on listening to it last night. I was adjusting the volume between -15 and -10, and volume wise, it was definitely not 18db louder. However, I will check to confirm.


Thanks again Bob.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19011648
> 
> 
> Just ran 2.4.14 a few hours ago and made some measurements. Graph was at 90dB and the graphs resolution is at 10dB per interval resulting in a finer looking measured curve. Just watched a TV show and the sound was roughly the same as before. No critical listening yet with reference material. And Yes, I lost 2dB of room gain again from 2.68 to 0.68.



Did they put out a new beta version or did you mean 2.4.13? My room gain dropped 2db also. It went from 2.6..... to .6..... I just forced the room gain to 3.0 for Movie, and the graph still looks good.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" ARC V2.4.14 now on Password Protected Download Page!*


Before you get too excited, it appears the only change is for the upcoming, new receiver products.


Late last night, Anthem tech support put "Test" (Beta) ARC V2.4.14 on their password protected download page. Change notes for changes since the current "official" release (ARC V2.4) now read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.4.14 beta
> 
> 
> 1. (MRX only) Fix for high frequency noise introduced in v2.4.13.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.13 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for upper-frequency measurement. (Note: Recalibration data is now embedded).
> 
> 
> 2. (MRX only) Fix for subwoofer level calibration.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.12 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Added advanced controls in Targets panel for the sub's low end rolloff.
> 
> 
> 2. Room Gain limited to 4 dB maximum (previously 6 dB).
> 
> 
> 3. Added MRX series AV receiver compatibility.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.11 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Added speaker positioning helper under Advanced mode / Tools / Quick Measure. This sweeps the selected speaker continuously to instantly show uncorrected frequency response graph. This can be most useful for finding a location for the subwoofer, since bass resonances vary greatly according to speaker positioning. Approximately ten sweeps are needed before graph is shown - after that update is live.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Quick Measure resets crossover and level calibration setup menus. If you won't be following Quick Measure with a full ARC procedure, and your existing crossover and level settings in the setup menu will be needed afterward, save or record them first.
> 
> 
> 2. Added compatibility for MRX 300/500/700 receivers. If loading a file that was creating using AVM, Statement D, or MRX 900, ARC will fail the upload then ask if you would like to convert the file to MRX 300/500/700 format to allow loading. Give it a different file name when prompted if you would like to keep the original file.
> 
> 
> 3. Added Flat correction range option when speakers are set to full range in Targets. To access Flat setting, select Full Range X-Over, then set frequency lower than 25 Hz or type "f" in the frequency window. (Also remember that typing "n" in frequency window disables the speaker in that configuration, as long as it is not Fronts, without discarding the measurement in case you would like to use it again it later).
> 
> 
> 4. Refined recalibration data - measurement graph may appear different by up to 1 dB in small areas when opening older file with this version. This will also cause corrected curve to have some differences.



As always, keep in mind that "test" software is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I installed ARC V2.4.14 and it appears there really are no significant changes for folks here (unless you have a Beta MRX receiver).


V2.4.14 accepts Measurements from V2.4.13 without putting up the new warning message that you ought to re-Measure.


The charts still show the unexpected 92dB level.


Doing a new Calculation based on the V2.4.13 Measurements and my adjusted Targets produces what appear to be identical results. I don't think I'll bother Uploading these results.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just got an email from Nick at Anthem confirming that the SPL scale in the "test" ARC charts is broken. Ignore the numeric value and just concentrate on how the curves look.


Should be fixed in the next "test" version.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

After all of these test versions I think I'll wait until everything is good to go. I don't feel like re-arcing everyday.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/19013778
> 
> 
> After all of these test versions I think I'll wait until everything is good to go. I don't feel like re-arcing everyday.



That's a perfectly reasonable thing to do.


Some of us will likely continue to be way-too-early adopters!









--Bob


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/19009114
> 
> 
> Don't know exactly where it is......but is this my Steve?
> 
> Tom



Tom,


I just caught on to who you are! Yeah it's me. I'm really enjoying my 50v that I got from you! I'm really surprised how much better the SQ is over my 80.1. I wish that I could leave it alone and just enjoy it though. I just re-done ARC (2.4.13) and it really seemed to be a big improvement over all but, my sub is too hot. I'm still trying to find that write-up that I was asking about because I'm just doing this off the cuff and I'm sure that I'm doing something wrong. I wish that I had more time to read this thread too but, such is life. Thanks again!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/19014056
> 
> 
> Tom,
> 
> 
> I just caught on to who you are! Yeah it's me. I'm really enjoying my 50v that I got from you! I'm really surprised how much better the SQ is over my 80.1. I wish that I could leave it alone and just enjoy it though. I just re-done ARC (2.4.13) and it really seemed to be a big improvement over all but, my sub is too hot. I'm still trying to find that write-up that I was asking about because I'm just doing this off the cuff and I'm sure that I'm doing something wrong. I wish that I had more time to read this thread too but, such is life. Thanks again!



Is this the sort of thing you were looking for?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post18914184 


--Bob


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19013813
> 
> 
> That's a perfectly reasonable thing to do.
> 
> 
> Some of us will likely continue to be way-too-early adopters!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



ITs part of you early adopters that has made this product so great.


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19014076
> 
> 
> Is this the sort of thing you were looking for?
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post18914184
> 
> 
> --Bob



Yes, thank you!


----------



## TJG55

S

if you have any questions, obviously check here or call me.

Tom


----------



## Texas steve

Ok, so you D2v AND sub25 owners - I watched the Dark Knight tonight with .13 ARC and I got to tell you the bass is greatly improved. &^IT!!!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19018403
> 
> 
> Ok, so you D2v AND sub25 owners - I watched the Dark Knight tonight with .12 ARC and I got to tell you the bass is greatly improved. &^IT!!!



I told you so.









John


----------



## Texas steve

you were right!!!!! The dogs even left the room!

























> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19018456
> 
> 
> I told you so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## k elone

I am thinking about purchasing an Anthem AVM 50v, and I have been following this thread for some time. I have observed that many current Anthem owners have posted their results after running the Arc program.


This brings me to my questions.

How does Arc work? Do you have to use your computer to use the Arc program?

Is it similar in terms of function as the pioneer elite's auto calibration program? I have a pioneer elite 45tx, and I have run the program on the 45tx.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There are two parts to ARC. First there is the ARC application that runs on a Windows PC and connects to the ARC mic (USB) and the Anthem (Serial). You use the ARC application to measure the audio response of the speakers in your room at several mic locations. The Anthem itself produces the test tones. The application then builds the room correction solution -- possibly with adjustments you select -- which then gets uploaded into the Anthem.


The application also displays the charts you've seen.


At that point you are done with the PC and can disconnect it.


The other portion of ARC is in the Anthem itself. It applies the uploaded room correction solution to all the myriad types of audio you might feed through the Anthem, and does it in a way that still lets you use the full audio processing power of the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## bigcoupe2003

I am in the market for a new processor and the D2V looks like its a clear winner however I am upgrading from a Rotel 1570 could anyone tell me what the retail price on the D2V is now and the AVM 50V also what are the major differences between them and how big of an audible and video difference will I see in the upgrade from the Rotel to either of the Anthem pieces and are the markups on these processors high also how does it compare with other process like the Denon high end or the classe ssp-800


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks using "test" ARC V2.4.13 or V2.4.14, it looks like the SPL values shown with the Quick Measure charts are correct.


This means you can mentally re-scale the SPL values on the main solution charts by also doing a Quick Measure on a speaker and comparing a couple of easily identifiable parts of the Quick Measure curve against the red Measured curve on the main charts. Keep in mind that the red Measured curve is an unweighted average of the measurements from all the mic positions, so if you happen to have a lot of variation between mic positions the Quick Measure curve won't match the red Measured curve precisely at any one mic position. You can just ignore this if the effect is small or you can move the mic around while doing Quick Measure to get a feel for how much adjustment you need to make -- i.e., mentally average the Quick Measure results.


For example, compare Quick Measure for the sub at the peak of the sub curve and at 100Hz against the sub's red Measured curve. Apply the SPL values shown on the Quick Measure chart to the main solution chart. For a main speaker, the peak value (usually near the crossovers) and the value at some easy frequency such as 1KHz should work.


I suspect the error in the main charts is identical for all speakers so you probably really need to do this only for one speaker and then apply the same mental adjustment to the SPL values on the main charts for all speakers.


Or, of course, you could just ignore the whole issue and wait until Anthem releases the fix for charting. It really does look like if you do the procedure to set Test Level and your sub volume knob for a 75dB solution, you get a 75dB solution (or very close to it) despite the numbers on the charts.


-------------------------------------


IMPORTANT NOTE: Remember that when you run Quick Measure it resets the Setup menu to the settings used during Measurement. That means, after finishing with Quick Measure you need to restore things before you go back to normal listening.


Since you've already got the serial cable hooked up, one way to do this is simply to re-Upload your latest ARC solution.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigcoupe2003* /forum/post/19019887
> 
> 
> I am in the market for a new processor and the D2V looks like its a clear winner however I am upgrading from a Rotel 1570 could anyone tell me what the retail price on the D2V is now and the AVM 50V also what are the major differences between them and how big of an audible and video difference will I see in the upgrade from the Rotel to either of the Anthem pieces and are the markups on these processors high also how does it compare with other process like the Denon high end or the classe ssp-800



Comparison is a very personal thing. I'll leave it to others who might have used those other processors.


The D2v has a truly excellent video solution, and it has ARC for the audio which is staggeringly good in my opinion. It is also expensive. Not priced like exotic hardware mind you -- check the over $20,000 forum here if that interests you -- but expensive nonetheless.


I believe Anthem just did a price increase this summer, so I don't think I know the current MSR pricing. The AVM 50v is about $2k cheaper than the D2v. Both come with ARC included. The video solution in the AVM 50v is identical. The audio solution in the D2v is better. Both run ARC but the audio component mix in the D2v is superior and the D2v upsamples all audio to 192KHz prior to processing. If you can afford the price difference, go for the D2v. Odds are you will hear the difference. But the AVM 50v is no slouch if you can't afford the D2v.


There is a comparison chart on the Anthem site that spells out differences, but the component differences don't really stand out on a chart like this:

http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-...-chart/details 


Note that Dolby Volume (in the chart as "future software") is now part of the released firmware for both units (V2.10).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

So far I'm quite pleased with the Movie and Music ARC solutions I produced with "test" ARC V2.4.13 for normal listening. This is the solution calculated at 15KHz that I posted a couple days ago. The solution for my Center speaker in particular is the best I've ever had with ARC.


However, I'm still not sure whether or not I've got a problem with Dolby Volume using this ARC solution. Sometimes I think DV is producing too much bass, and other times not. Part of the problem is that I'm sensitive to the other things DV is doing, and I'm finding it tough to divorce myself from those and just listen for the problems.


It is still the case that I won't use DV for any critical listening. But I've had some success with it controlling TV volume changes during more casual listening. I'm still using Leveling 5 at the moment, and with the DV Calibration Level still set at 0dB.


I've yet to find a case where I like DV "Cinema" -- which appears to do nothing special other than raising the volume an additional 10dB. So I'm concentrating simply on DV On and Off even if I'm watching a movie at a time when I need to control the dynamics.

--Bob


----------



## Need4spdnb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigcoupe2003* /forum/post/19019887
> 
> 
> I am in the market for a new processor and the D2V looks like its a clear winner however I am upgrading from a Rotel 1570 could anyone tell me what the retail price on the D2V is now and the AVM 50V also what are the major differences between them and how big of an audible and video difference will I see in the upgrade from the Rotel to either of the Anthem pieces and are the markups on these processors high also how does it compare with other process like the Denon high end or the classe ssp-800



D2v retails for $8500 USD and the AVM50v retails for $6000. You can always pick one up used on Agon as well, there are some great deals on there. As for comparisons, everyone has a favorite at this pricepoint, the Anthem and Denon are the most complete with video scalers and room correction. I have had both and could go either way.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So far I'm quite pleased with the Movie and Music ARC solutions I produced with "test" ARC V2.4.13 for normal listening. This is the solution calculated at 15KHz that I posted a couple days ago. The solution for my Center speaker in particular is the best I've ever had with ARC.
> 
> 
> However, I'm still not sure whether or not I've got a problem with Dolby Volume using this ARC solution. Sometimes I think DV is producing too much bass, and other times not. Part of the problem is that I'm sensitive to the other things DV is doing, and I'm finding it tough to divorce myself from those and just listen for the problems.
> 
> 
> It is still the case that I won't use DV for any critical listening. But I've had some success with it controlling TV volume changes during more casual listening. I'm still using Leveling 5 at the moment, and with the DV Calibration Level still set at 0dB.
> 
> 
> I've yet to find a case where I like DV "Cinema" -- which appears to do nothing special other than raising the volume an additional 10dB. So I'm concentrating simply on DV On and Off even if I'm watching a movie at a time when I need to control the dynamics.
> 
> --Bob



Bob


Would u recommend remeasuring with .13 if u have already measured with .12?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/19021018
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Would u recommend remeasuring with .13 if u have already measured with .12?



Yes. If you feed .12 Measurements into .13 or .14 you will get a warning message saying you can use these old values, but they are not fully compatible with the new software and for best results you should re-Measure.


I presume this is necessary to get the proper application of the new calibration data implementation, but perhaps there's something else going on here as well.


I did not actually load a Calculation based on .12 Measurements so I don't know how audible the difference might be.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

I would recommend reARC as well. I went from .12 to .13 ax there were indeed some improvements in sound from the two. Dont know about .14.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19021043
> 
> 
> Yes. If you feed .12 Measurements into .13 or .14 you will get a warning message saying you can use these old values, but they are not fully compatible with the new software and for best results you should re-Measure.
> 
> 
> I presume this is necessary to get the proper application of the new calibration data implementation, but perhaps there's something else going on here as well.
> 
> 
> I did not actually load a Calculation based on .12 Measurements so I don't know how audible the difference might be.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If you feed .13 Measurements into .14 there is no warning. And since the only reported change is for the upcoming receiver products, I don't think there's any need to re-Measure going from .13 to .14.

--Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

what do you guys prefer to listen to in 7.1? I finally added my dipolemonopole switchable surrounds to the sides, I have in walls in the back and utopia focals across the front, m25 masters 7 channel amp d2 w/arc and a mark seaton submersive sub w/eq.


I finnally used ultra 2 sounds good as well as surround ex, is anyone using anthem logic? I havent had time to check them out.


thanks, bob


----------



## dmusoke

Is there a way to turn ARC on and off from the remote? Going to the setup menu to compare ARC solutions is a pain.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19022510
> 
> 
> Is there a way to turn ARC on and off from the remote? Going to the setup menu to compare ARC solutions is a pain.



You could have 2 inputs like TV1 with ARC enable and TV2 with ARC disabled. And depending on your remote use the TV button to switch between the 2 or the THX,8,9 and THX,9,0 sequences as macro to select one or the other.

But I don't know if it is enough because the speaker level settings are global.


----------



## CharlieU

I did some new measurements with ARC beta .14 this weekend. The problem I had with the volume on the surrounds with .12 disappeared, but that could be due to me messing up with the .12 measurements. After living with the ARC suggested solution for a day, I'd have to say this is the best one yet. I haven't felt a need to tweak anything.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a way to turn ARC on and off from the remote? Going to the setup menu to compare ARC solutions is a pain.



There is not. You can use a pair of Source setups as suggested above. But be aware that comparing ARC On/Off is tricky because the best manual setup you might use may have different crossovers and volume trims from what ARC Uploads, since ARC's values assume its Room Correction processing is also in use.


In addition, some settings such as Room Resonance Filter, Center EQ, THX ultra 2 Sub, Boundary Gain Compensation, and LFE Bypass become active again when you turn ARC off for a Source. So if you have any out of date settings for those you need to correct them as well for your ARC Off comparison.

--Bon


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19018403
> 
> 
> Ok, so you D2v AND sub25 owners - I watched the Dark Knight tonight with .13 ARC and I got to tell you the bass is greatly improved. &^IT!!!



Do you have a dedicated home theater?


yesterday I was in an open area dolphin show and they were playing some music from a CD. I was hunderds of feet away from speakers and still could feel the base. I don't know what kind of sub they are using to generate such powerful base in an open area.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19024908
> 
> 
> Do you have a dedicated home theater?
> 
> 
> yesterday I was in an open area dolphin show and they were playing some music from a CD. I was hunderds of feet away from speakers and still could feel the base. I don't know what kind of sub they are using to generate such powerful base in an open area.



Amazing isn't it.


Last week I was at Country Thunder an outdoor country music venue.

There was no big wall of sound reinforcement speakers as there was previously. There was a pair of small hanging units suspended from above the stage. You would hardly notice them.

Every bass note from the bass guitar hit you right in the chest and the drum kicks where like explosions. Technology in commercial sound must be moving ahead at light speed while home theater muddles along.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19025765
> 
> 
> Amazing isn't it.
> 
> 
> Last week I was at Country Thunder an outdoor country music venue.
> 
> There was no big wall of sound reinforcement speakers as there was previously. There was a pair of small hanging units suspended from above the stage. You would hardly notice them.
> 
> Every bass note from the bass guitar hit you right in the chest and the drum kicks where like explosions. Technology in commercial sound must be moving ahead at light speed while home theater muddles along.



Onething I know is different with commercial sound system is the electric wiring. Max wiring at home we get is 240v. Commercial music systems have way more volts. That is probably one of the reasons. I don't know what else they have that we don't get at home. Their speakers must also be by far better than what we can get in today's market.


----------



## BladeRnR

I'm picking up my Anthem D2V this Saturday 14/08/2010 and am very excited. I'd like to thank everyone here (Especially Bob) for relating their ARC experience and measurements as it helps a neophyte (And Audyssey Pro User) like me avoid potential issues.


I moved from an Integra DHC-9.9 Processor.


One question - In order to access the restricted downloads section do I just have to register/relate the Anthem D2V Serial Number to Anthem Support?


Regards


Blade


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BladeRnR* /forum/post/19027209
> 
> 
> I'm picking up my Anthem D2V this Saturday 14/08/2010 and am very excited. I'd like to thank everyone here (Especially Bob) for relating their ARC experience and measurements as it helps a neophyte (And Audyssey Pro User) like me avoid potential issues.
> 
> 
> I moved from an Integra DHC-9.9 Processor.
> 
> 
> One question - In order to access the restricted downloads section do I just have to register/relate the Anthem D2V Serial Number to Anthem Support?
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> Blade



Just email tech support and they'll give you a password.


John


----------



## studlygoorite




ultra 150 pilot said:


> what do you guys prefer to listen to in 7.1? I finally added my dipolemonopole switchable surrounds to the sides, I have in walls in the back and utopia focals across the front, m25 masters 7 channel amp d2 w/arc and a mark seaton submersive sub w/eq.
> 
> 
> I finnally used ultra 2 sounds good as well as surround ex, is anyone using anthem logic? I havent had time to check them out.
> 
> 
> thanks, bob[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> I prefer Ultra 2 myself, I do not use Anthem Logic since the 2.08 firmware as it now sounds like 7 channel stereo in my set up. I think I remember Bob stating that if you are using ARC then THX processing is not needed but I still like it better, correct me if I'm wrong Bob, remember that Anthem Logic is for 2 channel sources and Ultra 2 is for 5.1 sources and it is all about personal taste which processing you use.
> 
> John


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I upgraded my D2v to 2.10 and ran an ARC measurement with beta .14

Afterward I noticed that I have left my Test Level 9dB lower than it should be (because of the other bug with previous ARC versions that were to hot).

But what is weird is that while the sweeps were running I sensed they were really weak. And even more weird, in the resulting ARC curves all speakers average around 87dB!!!

What does it mean?

Does the new ARC have an even harsher bug that needs the Test Level to be lowered even more than 8dB before running ARC?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/19028648
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I upgraded my D2v to 2.10 and ran an ARC measurement with beta .14
> 
> Afterward I noticed that I have left my Test Level 9dB lower than it should be (because of the other bug with previous ARC versions that were to hot).
> 
> But what is weird is that while the sweeps were running I sensed they were really weak. And even more weird, in the resulting ARC curves all speakers average around 87dB!!!
> 
> What does it mean?
> 
> Does the new ARC have an even harsher bug that needs the Test Level to be lowered even more than 8dB before running ARC?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Asked and answered







:


The sweep tones were low in volume because, as you noted, you left Test Level incorrectly low due to the bug in earlier versions of ARC. Put Test Level back where it is supposed to be and re-Measure.


The charts show a high level because "test" ARC V2.4.13 and 2.4.14 have a bug in the charting that puts the wrong numeric value on the SPL scale. Just ignore the numeric values and concentrate on the shape of the curves. You'll likely see values near 92dB on the chart even though the solution has actually been built at 75dB. Anthem has acknowledge the bug and said it will be fixed, likely in the next "test" version.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Is it possible to have a broken ARC upload?

I use the Keyspan connection from my laptop with win Vista to d2v. The serial connection is COM1 with the following setup: Bits per second: 115200 (While d2v was at 9600), Data Bits: 8, Parity None, Stop Bits: 1, and Flow Control: None.


I remember Anthem and Bob have mentioned that the Stop Bits should be 2. So I changed the Stop Bits to 2 and lowered the Bits per second to 9600 to match d2v and uploaded my ARC again and I found a noticible sound improvement especially the base was louder. If this is true then I think I will reload the fw 2.10 again to make sure nothing is uploaded incomplete.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it possible to have a broken ARC upload?
> 
> I use the Keyspan connection from my laptop with win Vista to d2v. The serial connection is COM1 with the following setup: Bits per second: 115200 (While d2v was at 9600), Data Bits: 8, Parity None, Stop Bits: 1, and Flow Control: None.
> 
> 
> I remember Anthem and Bob have mentioned that the Stop Bits should be 2. So I changed the Stop Bits to 2 and lowered the Bits per second to 9600 to match d2v and uploaded my ARC again and I found a noticible sound improvement especially the base was louder. If this is true then I think I will reload the fw 2.10 again to make sure nothing is uploaded incomplete.



Nope. Both ARC and the firmware installer verify the data got there correctly. In Theory. Seems to be working.


What CAN happen is that you do something after the ARC Upload which alters the settings ARC put into the Setup menu. Such as reloading from Saved User Settings, which will overwrite the Setup menu changes ARC just Uploaded.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19029736
> 
> 
> Nope. Both ARC and the firmware installer verify the data got there correctly. In Theory. Seems to be working.
> 
> 
> What CAN happen is that you do something after the ARC Upload which alters the settings ARC put into the Setup menu. Such as reloading from Saved User Settings, which will overwrite the Setup menu changes ARC just Uploaded.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


----------



## dlynch34

Anyone using a 2 way remote with the anthem d2v? The remote that comes with it is useless. I have it set up in my closet and it would be nice to have a 2 way remote just to tune the am and fm channels without having to turn on my tv to listen to the radio. I have been using a uric remote and it does basically what the harmony does but it's not 2 way communications.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/19030253
> 
> 
> Anyone using a 2 way remote with the anthem d2v? The remote that comes with it is useless. I have it set up in my closet and it would be nice to have a 2 way remote just to tune the am and fm channels without having to turn on my tv to listen to the radio. I have been using a uric remote and it does basically what the harmony does but it's not 2 way communications.



For a 2-way remote your options might be limited.


I recommend Crestron - but it is not inexpensive


----------



## Axatax




> Quote:
> Anyone using a 2 way remote with the anthem d2v? The remote that comes with it is useless. I have it set up in my closet and it would be nice to have a 2 way remote just to tune the am and fm channels without having to turn on my tv to listen to the radio. I have been using a uric remote and it does basically what the harmony does but it's not 2 way communications.



I'm controlling a D2 (and other theater gear) with a Crestron AV2. The audio devices such as tuner and CD player are controlled exclusively through the touchpanel. If you have any questions, let me know.


----------



## audiman

Is there a 2 channel RCA analog passthru on the D2, beside the 6 mch ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/19030580
> 
> 
> Is there a 2 channel RCA analog passthru on the D2, beside the 6 mch ?



Yes. There is a dedicated, balanced (XLR) 2 channel analog input, and there is a set of 7 RCA pair stereo analog inputs. Any Source definition can be set to use one of these stereo inputs for its audio, and to use them "Analog Direct", i.e., pass through, to the LF/RF speaker outputs. When set to Analog Direct, no audio processing is done other than volume control. In particular, ARC does not function, nor does bass steering to a subwoofer.


The same analog input can be assigned to multiple Source definitions, with independent choice of whether it is used Analog Direct (unprocessed pass through) or Analog DSP (digitized, processed, and then converted back to analog for output). Use Analog DSP if you want to use ARC with an analog audio input Source, for example.


For separate assignment of analog inputs to different Source definitions I believe you need to install the "test", V1.47f firmware in the D2. In the "official" V1.33 firmware, each stereo input has a fixed assignment to one Source definition only. E.g., the CD RCA jack input pair can only be used by the CD Source definition. Of course you don't actually have to have a CD player hooked up to that.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

hmmmmm.... So, I have ARC v2.4.13 installed, and I have taken measurements. As I said in an earlier post, my red measurements have never looked so good until now. I mean besides the peak at around 35Hz, my red measurements are within 3db of peaks and nulls across the frequency band up to 5KHz. So, I just have to wonder, since nothing in my room has changed, can these new measurements really be trusted. I mean were the measurements before really bogus? What is the mic picking up now that it didn't pick you before that's causing my red measurements to look so good? Did Anthem completely change the measurement software. I know Anthem changed something because it sounds really good. I guess I'm just a little curious.


----------



## audiman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19030646
> 
> 
> Yes. There is a dedicated, balanced (XLR) 2 channel analog input, and there is a set of 7 RCA pair stereo analog inputs. --Bob



Is this really balanced ? or just an XLR connection converted to RCA ? Anyhow, if the 7 RCA jacks are passthru, it's ok.


I did an interesting test with my old hd-a1 as it's mch analog connections to he D2 gave better result than going thru HDMi to the D2. how can this be explained ? dB settings was pretty much the same. HDMi was dull compare to the analog. i have the D2 version, no ARC.


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

how do you install 2 sets of arc measurments? I took one in dipole mode and one in monopole mode and I would like an easy way to switch back and forth.


thanks, bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/19031357
> 
> 
> how do you install 2 sets of arc measurments? I took one in dipole mode and one in monopole mode and I would like an easy way to switch back and forth.
> 
> 
> thanks, bob



I Don't think you can. Perhaps if you do one measurement for movie and switch to dipole for the music measurement then switch back and forth between them. That's only one ARC solution though.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19031252
> 
> 
> hmmmmm.... So, I have ARC v2.4.13 installed, and I have taken measurements. As I said in an earlier post, my red measurements have never looked so good until now. I mean besides the peak at around 35Hz, my red measurements are within 3db of peaks and nulls across the frequency band up to 5KHz. So, I just have to wonder, since nothing in my room has changed, can these new measurements really be trusted. I mean were the measurements before really bogus? What is the mic picking up now that it didn't pick you before that's causing my red measurements to look so good? Did Anthem completely change the measurement software. I know Anthem changed something because it sounds really good. I guess I'm just a little curious.



No, they are not bogus. Its just the resolution used by ARC might be higher before. Its possible that they are using 1/6th octave smoothing before and now they are only using 1/3 octave smoothing. Look also at the spacing of the graph, its now 10dB per line as before its was 5dB, therefore a smoother frequency response graph.


----------



## Shrike645

Is there any way to get 3D to pass through a D2? I have the Sony 570 Bluray player and HX909 now. I can get 3D if I use HDMI direct to the TV.


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19031385
> 
> 
> I Don't think you can. Perhaps if you do one measurement for movie and switch to dipole for the music measurement then switch back and forth between them. That's only one ARC solution though.



thanks for the quick response!


----------



## gonzalc3

Bob


Today i recalibrated with version .14 and besides the 90db bug i noticed that although the frequencies above 5k seem to be right when you force the correction it doesn't show.. Is it doing something or is simply a graph problem?...


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19031399
> 
> 
> No, they are not bogus. Its just the resolution used by ARC might be higher before. Its possible that they are using 1/6th octave smoothing before and now they are only using 1/3 octave smoothing. Look also at the spacing of the graph, its now 10dB per line as before its was 5dB, therefore a smoother frequency response graph.



Thanks for the response abc999. I will take a closer look at my graphs. I didn't even realize the spacing changed from 5db per line to 10db per line. I just took it for granted that the spacing was still 5db.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/19031357
> 
> 
> how do you install 2 sets of arc measurments? I took one in dipole mode and one in monopole mode and I would like an easy way to switch back and forth.
> 
> 
> thanks, bob



Maybe you can achieve what you are trying to do by saving one measurement under Save User Settings and the other measurement under Save Installer Settings. Then you can load user settings for one measurement and then load installer setting for the other measurement.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19031943
> 
> 
> Maybe you can achieve what you are trying to do by saving one measurement under Save User Settings and the other measurement under Save Installer Settings. Then you can load user settings for one measurement and then load installer setting for the other measurement.



No, that will NOT work. While all the the Setup menu settings do get saved that way, the Room Correction parameters do not. There is only one memory for Room Correction parameters and it always holds only the values last Uploaded by the ARC application.


To compare two ARC solutions use the Movie vs. Music trick. Otherwise you will need to load each solution in turn from the ARC application.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/19031786
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Today i recalibrated with version .14 and besides the 90db bug i noticed that although the frequencies above 5k seem to be right when you force the correction it doesn't show.. Is it doing something or is simply a graph problem?...



You could be resource limited. If a lot of correction is needed lower down, then ARC will give that priority and you won't actually get correction higher up. Sometimes playing with the Targets will make for a better fit of resources to the correction problem lower down and you will then also get the correction higher up. Also try not running Max EQ Frequency quite so high.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19031385
> 
> 
> I Don't think you can. Perhaps if you do one measurement for movie and switch to dipole for the music measurement then switch back and forth between them. That's only one ARC solution though.



Actually that's quite a good answer. You can set separate Targets for Movie and Music as well as doing more elaborate changes such as different mic placement or speaker pointing during Measurement (as long as the speaker DISTANCES don't change). So you really can compare two quite different ARC results this way.


Note also that there is only one set of speaker volume trims, so you can't get too extreme in setting things up differently or ARC will complain.


The "Movie" and "Music" are just names of convenience. ARC doesn't do anything different either in the calculation or during listening for those two. So you can use the two of them any way you want -- for example as way to compare two different ARC results.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiman* /forum/post/19031306
> 
> 
> Is this really balanced ? or just an XLR connection converted to RCA ? Anyhow, if the 7 RCA jacks are passthru, it's ok.
> 
> 
> I did an interesting test with my old hd-a1 as it's mch analog connections to he D2 gave better result than going thru HDMi to the D2. how can this be explained ? dB settings was pretty much the same. HDMi was dull compare to the analog. i have the D2 version, no ARC.



I have a vague recollection the HD-A1 was known to have a very confusing setup for HDMI audio output. You could end up playing the lossy audio track without realizing it.


Anyway, results like this are almost always due to setup error of one sort or another.

--Bob


----------



## gonzalc3

Thanks Bob!

One more question in the bass advance setting, do you recommend leaving the level to -1 db or is better to simply have it at 0?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob!
> 
> One more question in the bass advance setting, do you recommend leaving the level to -1 db or is better to simply have it at 0?



I don't know. ARC chose -1 for my solution, and I found no improvement by changing it. If ARC chose 0 in your case then you should leave it there unless you find a good reason to change it.

--Bib


----------



## usxplong

I finally reached the best curves I ever had. The sub curve is so good that is the same as the Flat option. I am using 12000 hz correction and changed my room gain from 3.9 to 4.5. I need confirmation from Bob.


My dealer check the center channel and said everything works fine but the problem is I have it too close to the floor level. I cannot move it up yet but ARC has taken care of it.


By the way it sounds the best I ever had.















 

ARC 1.doc 118.5k . file

 

ARC 2.doc 122k . file

 

ARC 3.doc 140.5k . file


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19035798
> 
> 
> I finally reached the best curves I ever had. The sub curve is so good that is the same as the Flat option. I am using 12000 hz correction and changed my room gain from 3.9 to 4.5. I need confirmation from Bob.
> 
> 
> My dealer check the center channel and said everything works fine but the problem is I have it too close to the floor level. I cannot move it up yet but ARC has taken care of it.
> 
> 
> By the way it sounds the best I ever had.



Your sub measurement, target and calculated solution looks almost the same as mine, as do most of your other speakers. If this sound the best yet just join the rest of us who have experienced the same thing. Which sub do you have?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19035798
> 
> 
> I finally reached the best curves I ever had. The sub curve is so good that is the same as the Flat option. I am using 12000 hz correction and changed my room gain from 3.9 to 4.5. I need confirmation from Bob.
> 
> 
> My dealer check the center channel and said everything works fine but the problem is I have it too close to the floor level. I cannot move it up yet but ARC has taken care of it.
> 
> 
> By the way it sounds the best I ever had.



Looks fine to me. Based on LF/RF, I suspect your mic data is good up to 15KHz, so you might want to try raising from 12 to 15 to see if the curves stay as clean. But 12 should work fine for you as there's not much additional correction to be had between there and 15. I wouldn't push it above 15.


In my charts I also saw signs that the mic data was only good up to 15kHz.


If you are actually using the Music solution, don't forget to make the change on that side as well. You can use the View menu to select the Music charts for viewing.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks fine to me. Based on LF/RF, I suspect your mic data is good up to 15KHz, so you might want to try raising from 12 to 15 to see if the curves stay as clean. But 12 should work fine for you as there's not much additional correction to be had between there and 15. I wouldn't push it above 15.
> 
> 
> In my charts I also saw signs that the mic data was only good up to 15kHz.
> 
> 
> If you are actually using the Music solution, don't forget to make the change on that side as well. You can use the View menu to select the Music charts for viewing.



I also noticed some consider improvement in the upper frequency with the new test arc and I have to say this is the best yet!


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19035850
> 
> 
> Your sub measurement, target and calculated solution looks almost the same as mine, as do most of your other speakers. If this sound the best yet just join the rest of us who have experienced the same thing. Which sub do you have?
> 
> John



Thanks Jayray.

I have one Sub 25. Yesterday I was watching 2012 and could feel the waves in my body.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19037160
> 
> 
> Looks fine to me. Based on LF/RF, I suspect your mic data is good up to 15KHz, so you might want to try raising from 12 to 15 to see if the curves stay as clean. But 12 should work fine for you as there's not much additional correction to be had between there and 15. I wouldn't push it above 15.
> 
> 
> In my charts I also saw signs that the mic data was only good up to 15kHz.
> 
> 
> If you are actually using the Music solution, don't forget to make the change on that side as well. You can use the View menu to select the Music charts for viewing.



Thanks Bob. I tried 15khz and my center curve got bumpy. I also tried other numbers above and below 12khz. But 12khz gave me the best curves.


----------



## Bendrover

I have a friend that is trying to sale me his D2 so he can upgrade to a D2V. It has the 1.33 software? Can I update it to the lastest verson? What is the cost to do that? Also, what would be a steal of a deal on this unit. Sorry for all the questions, but want to make sure I'm making a good purchase.


Thanks in advance


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19039535
> 
> 
> Thanks Jayray.
> 
> I have one Sub 25. Yesterday I was watching 2012 and could feel the waves in my body.



I have a sub 25 too so not a surprise to see a similar curve. I'm sure you noticed a diff with 2.4.13 as have many of us. The sub 25s have been awakened







I have tried 5K, 12K and 15k but so far 5 gives the best curves but I can't tell any diff with any of them. They all sound great.

John


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bendrover* /forum/post/19041161
> 
> 
> I have a friend that is trying to sale me his D2 so he can upgrade to a D2V. It has the 1.33 software? Can I update it to the lastest verson? What is the cost to do that? Also, what would be a steal of a deal on this unit. Sorry for all the questions, but want to make sure I'm making a good purchase.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance



That is the latest released version. There is a beta 1.47f. There are no charges for firmware updates. You can download them form the anthem site.


----------



## Bendrover

Thanks for getting back to me on the software question. Is there anything else I need to think about before pulling the trigger? I think he bought the unit new 2 years ago.


Thanks


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bendrover* /forum/post/19041502
> 
> 
> Thanks for getting back to me on the software question. Is there anything else I need to think about before pulling the trigger? I think he bought the unit new 2 years ago.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Does it come with the room correction software (ARC)? You will want it but it can be had for about $400. It is a piece of software to run on a PC and comes with a Mike to measure. You then download the results to the D2 similar to a firmware upgrade.


----------



## Shrike645

Oh yeah the warranty is not transferable.


----------



## Bendrover

It does come with the ARC.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bendrover* /forum/post/19041502
> 
> 
> Thanks for getting back to me on the software question. Is there anything else I need to think about before pulling the trigger? I think he bought the unit new 2 years ago.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Shrike645 couldn't be more correct.

ARC is unit specific, meaning that the ARC software is specific to a specific D2 unit/serial number and the matched microphone. If your freind has ARC it will come with the D2 since it won't work on any other D2/microphone combo, and he will be getting an ARC setup included with his new D2v.

If ARC is not included, order it from Anthem.

It was the best $400 I ever spent on my HT.

Tom


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19041397
> 
> 
> That is the latest released version. There is a beta 1.47f. There are no charges for firmware updates. You can download them form the anthem site.



You should check to see if it has a red video board. It can be seen from looking through the top of the D2. The v.1.47f needs the red video board, it might not work with the green/black board.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/19043789
> 
> 
> You should check to see if it has a red video board. It can be seen from looking through the top of the D2. The v.1.47f needs the red video board, it might not work with the green/black board.



Good point. He did say it was two years old so it should have the red board.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" ARC V 2.4.15 now on Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem Tech Support has this afternoon placed "Test" ARC V2.4.15 on their password protected download page. Change notes since the current "official" version (ARC V2.4) now read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.4.15 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed too-high sweep levels introduced in previous beta.
> 
> 
> Note: MRX must also be updated.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.14 beta
> 
> 
> 1. (MRX only) Fix for high frequency noise introduced in v2.4.13.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.13 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for upper-frequency measurement. (Note: Recalibration data is now embedded).
> 
> 
> 2. (MRX only) Fix for subwoofer level calibration.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.12 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Added advanced controls in Targets panel for the sub's low end rolloff.
> 
> 
> 2. Room Gain limited to 4 dB maximum (previously 6 dB).
> 
> 
> 3. Added MRX series AV receiver compatibility.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.11 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Added speaker positioning helper under Advanced mode / Tools / Quick Measure. This sweeps the selected speaker continuously to instantly show uncorrected frequency response graph. This can be most useful for finding a location for the subwoofer, since bass resonances vary greatly according to speaker positioning. Approximately ten sweeps are needed before graph is shown - after that update is live.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Quick Measure resets crossover and level calibration setup menus. If you won't be following Quick Measure with a full ARC procedure, and your existing crossover and level settings in the setup menu will be needed afterward, save or record them first.
> 
> 
> 2. Added compatibility for MRX 300/500/700 receivers. If loading a file that was creating using AVM, Statement D, or MRX 900, ARC will fail the upload then ask if you would like to convert the file to MRX 300/500/700 format to allow loading. Give it a different file name when prompted if you would like to keep the original file.
> 
> 
> 3. Added Flat correction range option when speakers are set to full range in Targets. To access Flat setting, select Full Range X-Over, then set frequency lower than 25 Hz or type "f" in the frequency window. (Also remember that typing "n" in frequency window disables the speaker in that configuration, as long as it is not Fronts, without discarding the measurement in case you would like to use it again it later).
> 
> 
> 4. Refined recalibration data - measurement graph may appear different by up to 1 dB in small areas when opening older file with this version. This will also cause corrected curve to have some differences.



Presumably this change is intended to fix the error in the prior version which caused the wrong SPL scale to be shown on the charts (92 or 93dB shown on the charts for a solution that was actually 75dB).


There are no changes in the included Manuals and Utilities folders.


As always, keep in mind that "test" software is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks Bob, Ill be we dont have to re-ARC, just re-run what we ARCed in 2.13


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19045816
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, Ill be we dont have to re-ARC, just re-run what we ARCed in 2.13



If it's just a charting change, you might not even need to re-Upload.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Just re ran my ARC from 4.13 in 4.15 and the chart did not budge, still high level. Can someone else also confirm



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19045850
> 
> 
> If it's just a charting change, you might not even need to re-Upload.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19045942
> 
> 
> Just re ran my ARC from 4.13 in 4.15 and the chart did not budge, still high level. Can someone else also confirm



I just did a quick 2 channel measurement and the levels dropped from 95 dB to 80 dB with v. 2.4.15. Openning previous measurement in 2.4.15 made no diff.

John


----------



## Texas steve

Ahhh, so you Re-ARCed!! so you confimed that using previous ARC from .13 made no difference in .15. thanks John



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19045996
> 
> 
> I just did a quick 2 channel measurement and the levels dropped from 95 dB to 80 dB with v. 2.4.15. Openning previous measurement in 2.4.15 made no diff.
> 
> John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I can also confirm that simply feeding ARC V2.4.13 Measurements into ARC V2.4.15 still produces charts that show SPL levels too high (92dB for what appears to actually result in a 75dB solution if you Upload it and listen to it).


I've got an email in to Nick at Anthem to get confirmation that we really do need to re-Measure to get the benefit of this latest fix.


Hmmm. JAYRAY, if your re-Measurement resulted in 80dB, I wonder if the 6dB bug is back?

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

If Im re-ARCing just to lower the chart - thats a lot of time for only a "visual" benifit! Now if there are other improvements Im in to do it!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19046029
> 
> 
> I can also confirm that simply feeding ARC V2.4.13 Measurements into ARC V2.4.15 still produces charts that show SPL levels too high (92dB for what appears to actually result in a 75dB solution if you Upload it and listen to it).
> 
> 
> I've got an email in to Nick at Anthem to get confirmation that we really do need to re-Measure to get the benefit of this latest fix.
> 
> 
> Hmmm. JAYRAY, if your re-Measurement resulted in 80dB, I wonder if the 6dB bug is back?
> 
> --Bob


----------



## jayray

I just tested my test tone level which was at 75 dB earlier today when I did a measurement with 2.4.14 and it is now about 6 dB higher at a 0 setting for test level.


I doubt a remeasurement will do much more than give you lower chart levels. I'd wait for them to fix this.

.

John


----------



## Texas steve

Agree - thanks!! Now lets see what that guy on the Sub25 Forum thinks of his new 25!







I told him he better velcro his A%% to his seat!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19046200
> 
> 
> I just tested my test tone level which was at 75 dB earlier today when I did a measurement with 2.4.14 and it is now about 6 dB higher at a 0 setting for test level.
> 
> 
> I doubt a remeasurement will do much more than give you lower chart levels. I'd wait for them to fix this.
> 
> .
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19046215
> 
> 
> Agree - thanks!! Now lets see what that guy on the Sub25 Forum thinks of his new 25!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I told him he better velcro his A%% to his seat!



I tried Ultra violet which seemed to have a weak LFE track. But now it seems like a diff track LFE speaking. I now have to watch everything over again.









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19046200
> 
> 
> I just tested my test tone level which was at 75 dB earlier today when I did a measurement with 2.4.14 and it is now about 6 dB higher at a 0 setting for test level.
> 
> 
> I doubt a remeasurement will do much more than give you lower chart levels. I'd wait for them to fix this.
> 
> .
> 
> John



You mean the ARC sweep tones are 6dB higher than they were with 2.4.14 given the same Test Level setting??

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19046348
> 
> 
> You mean the ARC sweep tones are 6dB higher than they were with 2.4.14 given the same Test Level setting??
> 
> --Bob



No, the ARC sweeps sounded normal. The test tone level in the sound calibration menu was set to 0 at 75 dB. After measuring with 2.4.15 the level was still at 0, but the spl meaured around 81 or 82 dB. Not sure if this is something that happens when ARC uploads and then changes the test tone level but I haven't experienced this before.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> No, the ARC sweeps sounded normal. The test tone level in the sound calibration menu was set to 0 at 75 dB. After measuring with 2.4.15 the level was still at 0, but the spl meaured around 81 or 82 dB. Not sure if this is something that happens when ARC uploads and then changes the test tone level but I haven't experienced this before.
> 
> John



Check what ARC Uploaded for LF. Since the Test Level tone comes out of the LF speaker, LF trim must be 0dB to get a meaningful value on the Test Level line.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19046791
> 
> 
> Check what ARC Uploaded for LF. Since the Test Level tone comes out of the LF speaker, LF trim must be 0dB to get a meaningful value on the Test Level line.
> 
> --Bob



LF trim was +3.5


John


----------



## dmusoke

So is v2.4.15 worse than the .14?


----------



## BladeRnR

I took possession of the Anthem D2V today. Thus far I've updated to Firmware 2.10 (The unit shipped with 2.08).

_Unfortunately_ the separate ARC-1 Box did not contain the Installation CD which contains the 2 specific Mic Calibration files for "that" specific Mic. I've contacted the reseller but until I get a replacement I guess I can't use ARC right?


I've E-mailed Anthem Support on the off chance they have a copy of the 2 files (I would think they would?).


Regards


Blade


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BladeRnR* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I took possession of the Anthem D2V today. Thus far I've updated to Firmware 2.10 (The unit shipped with 2.08).
> 
> 
> Unfortunately the separate ARC-1 Box did not contain the Installation CD which contains the 2 specific Mic Calibration files for "that" specific Mic. I've contacted the reseller but until I get a replacement I guess I can't use ARC right?
> 
> 
> I've E-mailed Anthem Support on the off chance they have a copy of the 2 files (I would think they would?).
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> Blade



Anthem tech support can generate the two files and email them to you. They will need the serial numbers of your D2v and your ARC mic.


Download the ARC install kit from Anthem's web site and un-Zip it. Copy the two files they send you into the same folder in the install kit as the Setup.exe program (the installer) and then run Setup to do the install.


Be sure to back up the two files in a safe place in case you ever need to reinstall ARC from scratch.

--Bob


----------



## LAMBERT R CONE

has anyone ever had or heard of a power conditioner , i have a 5300 , erasing the the software firmware from a anthem av ? i got my d2 back from anthem and it just would not work . andrew told me to disconnect it from my panamax and load the beta it took a couple times but it now works . i would love it to be protected ? any ideas ? i also have a problem with the ps3 anthem working right seems like i have to change the sorce to get the picture up .


thanks bert


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LAMBERT R CONE* /forum/post/19048647
> 
> 
> has anyone ever had or heard of a power conditioner , i have a 5300 , erasing the the software firmware from a anthem av ? i got my d2 back from anthem and it just would not work . andrew told me to disconnect it from my panamax and load the beta it took a couple times but it now works . i would love it to be protected ? any ideas ? i also have a problem with the ps3 anthem working right seems like i have to change the sorce to get the picture up .
> 
> 
> thanks bert



There have been cases where suddenly cutting off wall power (e.g., using a "whole theater" power switch or having a power failure) caused a surge BACK INTO the D2 from other devices that stored a lot of energy -- typically power amps. Power was being pushed into the D2's outputs. And this caused the firmware to get corrupted requiring a re-install.


Whether your power conditioner is doing something like that I wouldn't know, but in general you want to be sure you power down devices (including the D2) using their normal power off stuff. Don't just suddenly cut wall power to everything.


I have my D2v plugged into an APC battery backup which also includes surge protection (the type sold for use with computers). It is not a power conditioner -- I trust the power supply in the D2v to do all that -- but it provides surge protection and keeps the D2v live through brief power cut outs. But that's not protection agains something like a power amp dumping its stored energy back down the input cables if there is a power loss. Anyway, back when I had a D2 my power amps never did anything like that.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Does anyone know what the green, blue and red lines mean(bold and light) during ARC's quick measure process? I'm positioning my sub and am finding that these lines move all over the place when the woofer is fixed at a given location and nothing else moving in the house. Why is this the case?


----------



## tranle

I have noticed with the new ARC software, I have a 10db dip at 10Khz on the measurement curve for all speakers. Is it a bug in the new software or is my microphone now defective ?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/19049594
> 
> 
> I have noticed with the new ARC software, I have a 10db dip at 10Khz on the measurement curve for all speakers. Is it a bug in the new software or is my microphone now defective ?



Which version, 2.4.14 or 2.4.15? What is your MAX EQ freq. set to? If it is below 10K then this is normal. Not to worry it sounds great. Raise it if you like, just making sure the lower frequencies doesn't start to have more wobbles. If you look at more recent posts, everyone is experiencing the same thing but listening results say it is better than prev. version. LFE is corrected to lower than 20 Hz. now.

John


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19049417
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what the green, blue and red lines mean(bold and light) during ARC's quick measure process? I'm positioning my sub and am finding that these lines move all over the place when the woofer is fixed at a given location and nothing else moving in the house. Why is this the case?



The 3 colored response line are the actual measured response of the speaker being measured in succession. Low frequency response measurements is quite tricky and would surely entail the response graph that you are seing now. If the ARC quick measure did not employ any smoothing to the responses, you will see much bigger variations in measured responses. Use the quick measure to see the general pattern of the response and move the speaker a foot at a time.


The position provided by Jayray is providing quite a good response with my room. Instead of 8 feet from the front wall mine is around 7 feet. Problem is, it might not work for all rooms because of the WAF.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19049821
> 
> 
> Which version, 2.4.14 or 2.4.15? What is your MAX EQ freq. set to? If it is below 10K then this is normal. Not to worry it sounds great. Raise it if you like, just making sure the lower frequencies doesn't start to have more wobbles. If you look at more recent posts, everyone is experiencing the same thing but listening results say it is better than prev. version. LFE is corrected to lower than 20 Hz. now.
> 
> John



I am using ARC 2.4.15. This is the measurement curve (red curve) before any correction. My speaker are pretty flat to 5K, then dip -10db at 10K the come back up at 15K. But with that dip you cannot choose any max eq above 5k because the software will try to compensate for the dip.


I may try to reinstall the older version an see if I have the same measurement error.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/19050063
> 
> 
> I am using ARC 2.4.15. This is the measurement curve (red curve) before any correction. My speaker are pretty flat to 5K, then dip -10db at 10K the come back up at 15K. But with that dip you cannot choose any max eq above 5k because the software will try to compensate for the dip.
> 
> 
> I may try to reinstall the older version an see if I have the same measurement error.



That is odd. Not sure what would do that although if all speakers are showing this it could be the mic. I'd call Anthem tech and ask them what it might be.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19049900
> 
> 
> The 3 colored response line are the actual measured response of the speaker being measured in succession. Low frequency response measurements is quite tricky and would surely entail the response graph that you are seing now. If the ARC quick measure did not employ any smoothing to the responses, you will see much bigger variations in measured responses. Use the quick measure to see the general pattern of the response and move the speaker a foot at a time.
> 
> 
> The position provided by Jayray is providing quite a good response with my room. Instead of 8 feet from the front wall mine is around 7 feet. Problem is, it might not work for all rooms because of the WAF.



I tried this quick measure moving my sub by 4" increments and you could see dips that were quite noticeable. Subs are very sensitive to position. I have a dedicated room, WAF does not apply









John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19049900
> 
> 
> The 3 colored response line are the actual measured response of the speaker being measured in succession. Low frequency response measurements is quite tricky and would surely entail the response graph that you are seing now. If the ARC quick measure did not employ any smoothing to the responses, you will see much bigger variations in measured responses. Use the quick measure to see the general pattern of the response and move the speaker a foot at a time.
> 
> 
> The position provided by Jayray is providing quite a good response with my room. Instead of 8 feet from the front wall mine is around 7 feet. Problem is, it might not work for all rooms because of the WAF.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19050413
> 
> 
> I tried this quick measure moving my sub by 4" increments and you could see dips that were quite noticeable. Subs are very sensitive to position. I have a dedicated room, WAF does not apply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Abc999 and Jayray:


Thanks for responding .... Yes, I found that optimizing my 2 subs and ribbons speaker system has been painful but the effort has been worth it, thanks to ARC's quick measure. I wasn't aware that I had to move them in inches but I believe I have phase and location optimized them as far as I can given the limitations of my small room. True that the subs perform better when located away from the walls but that would look really weird having 2 subs in the middle of my living room of my small apartment










Right now, it sounds really good at the default 5Khz cut-off and this with HD cable broadcasts. This is the best sound I've been able to get from my system so far. "Straight No Chaser - Live in New York" is awesome







!


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19048853
> 
> 
> There have been cases where suddenly cutting off wall power (e.g., using a "whole theater" power switch or having a power failure) caused a surge BACK INTO the D2 from other devices that stored a lot of energy -- typically power amps. Power was being pushed into the D2's outputs. And this caused the firmware to get corrupted requiring a re-install.
> 
> 
> Whether your power conditioner is doing something like that I wouldn't know, but in general you want to be sure you power down devices (including the D2) using their normal power off stuff. Don't just suddenly cut wall power to everything.
> 
> 
> I have my D2v plugged into an APC battery backup which also includes surge protection (the type sold for use with computers). It is not a power conditioner -- I trust the power supply in the D2v to do all that -- but it provides surge protection and keeps the D2v live through brief power cut outs. But that's not protection agains something like a power amp dumping its stored energy back down the input cables if there is a power loss. Anyway, back when I had a D2 my power amps never did anything like that.
> 
> --Bob



I've noticed that, compare to the D2, the D2v's firmware (ver 2.10) seems rather quirky.


Onscreen display takes a much longer time (>5 secs) to appear after pressing the Setup or Menu key. At times I thought it had failed. During Setup procedures, I've lost onscreen display several times when working on DVD source settings. I've to exit Septup and re-enter to continue. You get a pink screen if you disable an unused DVD source.


The other day, upon powering up, I was without audio. I did a power recycle and it came back. But I found my FM station settings lost and had to redo it. A quick check of the Setup settings shows everything seems fine without having to reload.


Also the loud "beep-zap" between chapters when using the DV-79AVi.


Other than these, I get fantastic video and audio. Oh, did I forget to mention that I paid much less for it than I did for the D2, both new?


Sighhh....

Ben


----------



## Texas steve

Lucky boy!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19050413
> 
> 
> I have a dedicated room, WAF does not apply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19051179
> 
> Lucky boy!!



I have sound insulation which allows her to sleep and me to play









John


----------



## BladeRnR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19047962
> 
> 
> Anthem tech support can generate the two files and email them to you. They will need the serial numbers of your D2v and your ARC mic.
> 
> 
> Download the ARC install kit from Anthem's web site and un-Zip it. Copy the two files they send you into the same folder in the install kit as the Setup.exe program (the installer) and then run Setup to do the install.
> 
> 
> Be sure to back up the two files in a safe place in case you ever need to reinstall ARC from scratch.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob I did just that after I posted and sure enough Anthem Support sent the files to me in under a couple of hours.


Many thanks for the reply


Blade


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have sound insulation which allows her to sleep and me to play
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Ah! So you are not bothered by the snoring.









--Bob


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19050702
> 
> 
> Yes, I found that optimizing my 2 subs and ribbons speaker system has been painful but the effort has been worth it, thanks to ARC's quick measure. I wasn't aware that I had to move them in inches but I believe I have phase and location optimized them as far as I can given the limitations of my small room. True that the subs perform better when located away from the walls but that would look really weird having 2 subs in the middle of my living room of my small apartment



The advantage of 2 (or more subs) is that you don't have to physically put the sub in the middle of the room (if that was where it measured best). You can asymmetrically place the subs and have a "virtual" sub in the middle of the room if that is deemed the best spot for the sub. If you have a regular rectangular room then you can actually calculate the best spots for the subs using easily available room mode calculators. I had an audio calibrator come out and do this (and more) and the improvement in the bass (4 JL F113s) was remarkable. Best money I spent (with ARC being the second best).


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19051423
> 
> 
> Ah! So you are not bothered by the snoring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Did I forget to mention my wife is two floors up









John


----------



## Texas steve

Perhaps I should suggest that to my wife!!










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19052813
> 
> 
> Did I forget to mention my wife is two floors up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Perhaps I should suggest that to my wife!!



I have the same scenario at my house. It's the best!


----------



## Texas steve

You guys make me sick!!!
























> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/19053576
> 
> 
> I have the same scenario at my house. It's the best!


----------



## tngiloy

I am just finishing up my mini HT/mancave in our lower level on the opposite side of our house from our BR. The distance and acoustic ceiling tiles have made a great improvement in the WAF. No more "Can you turn that down! I have to go to work tomorrow!" GREAT!







Sorry Steve, I'm not trying to rub it in.

Since I will have to re-ARC soon, after my speaker stands arrive this week, I was wondering if anyone has heard when the new ARC is set to be officially released. I do appreciate all of you who try the beta/test versions, but I'm too chicken and lazy. I had a bad experience with D2 v1.47f firmware, and have decided to stick to 'official' releases.

BTW has anyone heard when the new D2 firmware is coming out? Seems like its been along time coming.


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19054946
> 
> 
> I am just finishing up my mini HT/mancave in our lower level on the opposite side of our house from our BR. The distance and acoustic ceiling tiles have made a great improvement in the WAF. No more "Can you turn that down! I have to go to work tomorrow!" GREAT!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Steve, I'm not trying to rub it in.
> 
> Since I will have to re-ARC soon, after my speaker stands arrive this week, I was wondering if anyone has heard when the new ARC is set to be officially released. I do appreciate all of you who try the beta/test versions, but I'm too chicken and lazy. I had a bad experience with D2 v1.47f firmware, and have decided to stick to 'official' releases.
> 
> BTW has anyone heard when the new D2 firmware is coming out? Seems like its been along time coming.
> 
> 
> Tom



The final version of ARC isvery close to done. I won't speculate when but it should soon.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19054946
> 
> 
> I am just finishing up my mini HT/mancave in our lower level on the opposite side of our house from our BR. The distance and acoustic ceiling tiles have made a great improvement in the WAF. No more "Can you turn that down! I have to go to work tomorrow!" GREAT!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Steve, I'm not trying to rub it in.
> 
> Since I will have to re-ARC soon, after my speaker stands arrive this week, I was wondering if anyone has heard when the new ARC is set to be officially released. I do appreciate all of you who try the beta/test versions, but I'm too chicken and lazy. I had a bad experience with D2 v1.47f firmware, and have decided to stick to 'official' releases.
> 
> BTW has anyone heard when the new D2 firmware is coming out? Seems like its been along time coming.
> 
> 
> Tom



The final version of ARC is very close to done. I won't speculate when but it

should be soon.

John


----------



## Texas steve









I got a great wife, but I do hear the "can you turn that down" all the time! And now with the Sub 25 its a common statement!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19054946
> 
> 
> I am just finishing up my mini HT/mancave in our lower level on the opposite side of our house from our BR. The distance and acoustic ceiling tiles have made a great improvement in the WAF. No more "Can you turn that down! I have to go to work tomorrow!" GREAT!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Steve, I'm not trying to rub it in.
> 
> Tom


----------



## Texas steve

Ok here are a couple of pictures, one is of my room. There is a 106" screen that comes down from the ceiling in front of Shakespeare (then automatic blinds go down in all the windows) and protector in the rear is a Panny 4000.


Speakers are Salk (main, center (above Shakespeare) and surrounds), BAT6200 amp, Oppo83, and of course the D2v. Sub 25 is in separate picture but picture does not do it justice its gorgeous! It like the speakers are high gloss black. To controll all this I use the NEVO remote.


Trying to keep WAF AND sound, but with the D2v, Salk, BAT 6200 and Sub 25 it blows the rafters!

























> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19055131
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a great wife, but I do hear the "can you turn that down" all the time! And now with the Sub 25 its a common statement!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19055240
> 
> 
> Ok here are a couple of pictures, one is of my room. There is a 106" screen that comes down from the ceiling in front of Shakespeare (then automatic blinds go down in all the windows) and protector in the rear is a Panny 4000.
> 
> 
> Speakers are Salk (main, center (above Shakespeare) and surrounds), BAT6200 amp, Oppo83, and of course the D2v. Sub 25 is in separate picture but picture does not do it justice its gorgeous! It like the speakers are high gloss black. To controll all this I use the NEVO remote.
> 
> 
> Trying to keep WAF AND sound, but with the D2v, Salk, BAT 6200 and Sub 25 it blows the rafters!



My wife loved your room but is happy my theatre is in the basement









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just got confirmation from Nick at Anthem that re-Measurement is required with "test" ARC V2.4.15, even though it does not complain if you feed it data from .13 or .14.


If more folks find that the solution level in .15 is still 5 or 6 dB too high even after re-Measurement, then that would suggest there is still a problem -- perhaps the return of the 6dB too high bug.


So let's get some charts posted from .15 re-Measurements and see what we've got.

--Bob


----------



## LesPaul

It has been a while since I posted here but I often read this helpful thread. I have a D2v with ARC version .14 installed and the latest D2v software. I also just purchased two Sub-25's. I had been having an issue with a 12KHz dip and contacted Anthem. I set the cut off frequency at 10KHz and my system sounded great. In the mean time Anthem sent me a new mike just as I down loaded the latest software. With the quick measure software I was able to see that the frequency dip is still there but perhaps not as bad. This dip happens with all my B&W speakers in my 7.1 system. After re-doing a full ARC measurement my sound and keeping my 10KHz cut off the sound seems to shrill to me. I will try this again with a 5KHz cut off and see how it sounds. Has anyone else had this issue?


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/19058303
> 
> 
> It has been a while since I posted here but I often read this helpful thread. I have a D2v with ARC version .14 installed and the latest D2v software. I also just purchased two Sub-25's. I had been having an issue with a 12KHz dip and contacted Anthem. I set the cut off frequency at 10KHz and my system sounded great. In the mean time Anthem sent me a new mike just as I down loaded the latest software. With the quick measure software I was able to see that the frequency dip is still there but perhaps not as bad. This dip happens with all my B&W speakers in my 7.1 system. After re-doing a full ARC measurement my sound and keeping my 10KHz cut off the sound seems to shrill to me. I will try this again with a 5KHz cut off and see how it sounds. Has anyone else had this issue?



Yes. I correct to 5kHz, and I don't believe any of the measurements above 10k.


----------



## CharlieU

I have B&W's and my experience with them and ARC has been similar to you. While I wouldn't call it shrill, correcting the 12K dip results in listening fatigue at higher volume levels. Limiting ARC to 5K has worked the best for me.


----------



## nahkmos

Hi everybody!


I've just received my D2v on Thursday and I begin with the ARC system. After a few hours with it, I'm notice a really improvement that is very nice (huge soundstage and precision!). I discover all possibilities the preamp offer but one fonction I had in my previous machine (a Yamaha Z7 in Europe) is missing here: it is the possibility to transit a video signal through the D2v when it is offline.


Could you confirm that there is no solution to do this?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nahkmos* /forum/post/19060361
> 
> 
> Hi everybody!
> 
> 
> I've just received my D2v on Thursday and I begin with the ARC system. After a few hours with it, I'm notice a really improvement that is very nice (huge soundstage and precision!). I discover all possibilities the preamp offer but one fonction I had in my previous machine (a Yamaha Z7 in Europe) is missing here: it is the possibility to transit a video signal through the D2v when it is offline.
> 
> 
> Could you confirm that there is no solution to do this?



Send the Video Signal to another port on your display.


BYPASS the D2v


----------



## J. FRICANO

Hello All Is the full release of ARC emminent or should I install and re measure using test .15? I just installed firmware 1.47f on my D2 and re uploaded ARC. Seems to look and sound better. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you, John.


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19065286
> 
> 
> Hello All Is the full release of ARC emminent or should I install and re measure using test .15? I just installed firmware 1.47f on my D2 and re uploaded ARC. Seems to look and sound better. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you, John.



I am waiting for the new version myself.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19065286
> 
> 
> Hello All Is the full release of ARC emminent or should I install and re measure using test .15? I just installed firmware 1.47f on my D2 and re uploaded ARC. Seems to look and sound better. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you, John.



I too just installed 1.47f yesterday and will be redoing ARC in the next couple of days. JayRay says the release is near and since he talks directly to Anthem his info is very good. If it's not out in a few days I'll use .15 to measure and upload. I don't find it that much of a problem to measure so if the release comes out shortly after I don't mind. It would be my guess that the official release will not require a new measurement though.


By the way, I haven't done much testing yet but 1.47f seems to be working great for me.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19065390
> 
> 
> I too just installed 1.47f yesterday and will be redoing ARC in the next couple of days. JayRay says the release is near and since he talks directly to Anthem his info is very good. If it's not out in a few days I'll use .15 to measure and upload. I don't find it that much of a problem to measure so if the release comes out shortly after I don't mind. It would be my guess that the official release will not require a new measurement though.
> 
> 
> By the way, I haven't done much testing yet but 1.47f seems to be working great for me.



There is to be at least one more beta version of ARC before the final release. It's not expected that these revisions will add any more to the sound quality than what we've experienced with the recent betas.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick says that any additional changes in ARC prior to the next "official" release will likely be limited to making stuff work correctly on the new Receiver products which are about to ship.


Obviously if they find a bug fix that also improves things on the prepros then that will be cool, but the focus now is getting those Receivers shipped and ARC has to work for them.


As JAYRAY says, there's at least one more Beta coming.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nick says that any additional changes in ARC prior to the next "official" release will likely be limited to making stuff work correctly on the new Receiver products which are about to ship.
> 
> 
> Obviously if they find a bug fix that also improves things on the prepros then that will be cool, but the focus now is getting those Receivers shipped and ARC has to work for them.
> 
> 
> As JAYRAY says, there's at least one more Beta coming.
> 
> --Bob



I just love my d2v and you cannot beat their customer service. I emailed anthem this morning for the rs232 codes for zone 2 and within 2 hours they sent them to me! No company can top that service.


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19065286
> 
> 
> Hello All Is the full release of ARC emminent or should I install and re measure using test .15? I just installed firmware 1.47f on my D2 and re uploaded ARC. Seems to look and sound better. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you, John.



Thank you all for the replies! I will remeasure with .15 as I currently have v2.4 installed. I also find 1.47f firmware to be noticeably better than 1.33. My TIVO likes it better also. I wonder what the holdout is for the full release of D2 firmware? John.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19067862
> 
> 
> Thank you all for the replies! I will remeasure with .15 as I currently have v2.4 installed. I also find 1.47f firmware to be noticeably better than 1.33. My TIVO likes it better also. I wonder what the holdout is for the full release of D2 firmware? John.



Probably a lot of product introductions and work on D2v and ARC updates.


I really wish they would get the next (and apparently last) D2 firmware out the door. It's been over TWO YEARS!










If I didn't have an old (June 2006) D2 with the toroidal transformer and green board, I would have updated to the 1.47 release already. But I can't live without my D2!


I know that eventually (once I get back to work) I'll trade in/sell my D2 for a D2v, but for now I need to get the maximum from my existing toys.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19067673
> 
> 
> Nick says that any additional changes in ARC prior to the next "official" release will likely be limited to making stuff work correctly on the new Receiver products which are about to ship.
> 
> 
> Obviously if they find a bug fix that also improves things on the prepros then that will be cool, but the focus now is getting those Receivers shipped and ARC has to work for them.
> 
> 
> As JAYRAY says, there's at least one more Beta coming.
> 
> --Bob



Beta testing ends next week and production starts soon after. Not sure when first units will ship.

John


----------



## BladeRnR

I'm really enjoying the Anthem D2V - it's quite an amazing Processor. I've run ARC for the first time and with Bob's Guide's I think I've done ok. I'll post results when I get home from work.


Just a questions around the internals. What ADC/DAC chip does the Anthem D2V use? I can't seem to locate that information anywhere (And I've looked).


Regards


Blade


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BladeRnR* /forum/post/19069908
> 
> 
> Just a questions around the internals. What ADC/DAC chip does the Anthem D2V use? I can't seem to locate that information anywhere (And I've looked).


 This post says "Anthem uses Burr-Brown upsamplers in the D2 and D2v" and has other details of the innards.


----------



## tngiloy

I just moved my HT to a new/ smaller room and have gone from a 7.1 speaker configuration to 5.1.

I used to set most of the the different input signals to output D PLIIx.

I'm confused now. The manual says PLIIx can be used 'up to 7.1'. Does that mean if I set a 2.0 or 6.0 or DD5.1 to output PLIIx that it will do the PLIIx processing and combine the rears into the surrounds? Or am I unable to use PLIIx (or AL cinema/music) modes in a 5.1 setup?

Forgive me if this seems like a stupid question, but if someone who uses a 5.1 setup could explain the options available, I would greatly appreciate it.


Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's not that complicated. The thing to keep in mind is that surround modes RAISE a fewer number of input channels into a greater number of speakers for output.


With 5.1 speakers, input at 5.1 or 7.1 leaves nothing for a surround mode to do so it isn't offered when you cycle through the choices, and if you have it set in Mode Presets it is just ignored.


That is, with 5.1 or 7.1 input, your only choices are things OTHER THAN the surround mode -- e.g., whether THX post processing and/or Dolby Volume is used.


With 6.1 or 7.1 channel input, rear channel content automatically gets mixed into the side surround speakers. -- no option. Note by the way that with 5.1 speakers, the surround speakers must always be wired and set as SIDE surrounds no matter how far back you've actually placed them.


With LESS than 5.1 channel input, the surround modes come back into play. -- raising the content to 5.1 speaker output.


This is what you are already used to EXCEPT that some modes no longer are offered because they only differ in the way content is created for the REAR speakers in a 7.1 set and you no longer have rear speakers. If you have one of those set in Mode Presets the Anthem will instead use the equivalent mode for 5.1 speakers.


So for example you will no longer find a Game mode offered.

--Bob


----------



## J. FRICANO

 Attachment 183487 

Attachment 183488 

Attachment 183489 Hello All,

I just measured and uoloaded ARC v2.4.15 on my D2 with v1.47f Firmware and it seems that the db reference volume is much higher than with v2.4. It also sounded a little shrill when I used 10K as my highest correction frequency so I reset it to5K and uploaded it. Yhe original room gain was 1.896.... and I changed it to 2.6 for movies and 2.2 for music. It sounds very good on initial listening. Maybe final release will correct this?

Graphs attached. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much for responding in this forum so we can all enjoy these sophisticated electronics. Your time and consideration are indispensable!

Thank you, John.

 

ARC Graphs #1.doc 93.5k . file

 

Graphs#2.doc 94.5k . file

 

Targets.doc 108.5k . file


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19070996
> 
> 
> It's not that complicated. The thing to keep in mind is that surround modes RAISE a fewer number of input channels into a greater number of speakers for output.
> 
> 
> With 5.1 speakers, input at 5.1 or 7.1 leaves nothing for a surround mode to do so it isn't offered when you cycle through the choices, and if you have it set in Mode Presets it is just ignored.
> 
> 
> That is, with 5.1 or 7.1 input, your only choices are things OTHER THAN the surround mode -- e.g., whether THX post processing and/or Dolby Volume is used.
> 
> 
> With 6.1 or 7.1 channel input, rear channel content automatically gets mixed into the side surround speakers. -- no option. Note by the way that with 5.1 speakers, the surround speakers must always be wired and set as SIDE surrounds no matter how far back you've actually placed them.
> 
> 
> With LESS than 5.1 channel input, the surround modes come back into play. -- raising the content to 5.1 speaker output.
> 
> 
> This is what you are already used to EXCEPT that some modes no longer are offered because they only differ in the way content is created for the REAR speakers in a 7.1 set and you no longer have rear speakers. If you have one of those set in Mode Presets the Anthem will instead use the equivalent mode for 5.1 speakers.
> 
> 
> So for example you will no longer find a Game mode offered.
> 
> --Bob



OK, I get it.

I was looking at the setup page to see what is offered, which was almost all the modes. When I look at the OSD or front panel I now see my choices are limited.

When I watch bluray and send a True-HD or DTS-ma pcm via hdmi I can see when looking at the front panel/osd that the choice is 'none'. When I am looking at SAT and I am getting a DD 5.1 again 'none' is my only choice.

Thanks, thats how I will set my presets in the menu, not that it seems to matter.

But when I watch a DVD or Sat chanel that is 2.0 what have you found to be the best mode for raising it to 5.1? ProLogic/PLIIx movie/AL cinema? Which in your opinion does the best job? To be honest I can't hear much difference, but is one mode supposed to be better?

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19072093
> 
> 
> OK, I get it.
> 
> I was looking at the setup page to see what is offered, which was almost all the modes. When I look at the OSD or front panel I now see my choices are limited.
> 
> When I watch bluray and send a True-HD or DTS-ma pcm via hdmi I can see when looking at the front panel/osd that the choice is 'none'. When I am looking at SAT and I am getting a DD 5.1 again 'none' is my only choice.
> 
> Thanks, thats how I will set my presets in the menu, not that it seems to matter.
> 
> But when I watch a DVD or Sat chanel that is 2.0 what have you found to be the best mode for raising it to 5.1? ProLogic/PLIIx movie/AL cinema? Which in your opinion does the best job? To be honest I can't hear much difference, but is one mode supposed to be better?
> 
> Tom



It's really just personal preference. My defaults for 2.0 input are:


1) Music sources -> Stereo

2) TV Program sources -> AL Cinema

3) Movie sources -> PLIIx Movie


I don't use THX post processing at all anymore since I started using ARC. (And I leave Dolby Volume OFF most of time for all sources, although I'm still experimenting with that.)


Now those are the presets. If I'm watching a movie on TV I'll likely switch to PLIIx Movie on the fly. Or if I want surround from music I'll switch to PLIIx Music.


One useful mode (only available when THX is OFF) is Mono Academy. Use that for movies older than about 1950 (4:3 movies, usually but not always in black and white). The original, monaural sound tracks for those movies used the Motion Picture Academy equalization -- an aggressive treble boost designed to counter the fact that the speaker was behind the heavy projection screen, and that the audience absorbed some treble as well. If that isn't removed for home theater use you get the "old timey" sound from those movies -- brassy and hissy. The trick is that some discs and some broadcasts of old movies ALREADY have that removed. So just keep in mind that switching to Mono Academy is an option if you get the feeling that has not already been done.


Modern movies also need to be re-equalized for home theater use. This removes the much less aggressive treble boost applied for commercial theater use. Now that is pretty much always done ahead of time for movies on TV or on disc (meaning you don't have to worry about it), but if it is not you can do it in the Anthem by pressing THX twice and using Up/Down arrow to toggle the re-equalization. Just remember to turn it off afterwards. Note that the THX re-equalization function can be turned on or off independently of whether the rest of the THX process is turned on for a given Source. So if you think a modern movie is sounding a little brassy to you, try turning on just the re-equalization portion of THX.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19071280
> 
> Attachment 183487
> 
> Attachment 183488
> 
> Attachment 183489 Hello All,
> 
> I just measured and uoloaded ARC v2.4.15 on my D2 with v1.47f Firmware and it seems that the db reference volume is much higher than with v2.4. It also sounded a little shrill when I used 10K as my highest correction frequency so I reset it to5K and uploaded it. Yhe original room gain was 1.896.... and I changed it to 2.6 for movies and 2.2 for music. It sounds very good on initial listening. Maybe final release will correct this?
> 
> Graphs attached. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much for responding in this forum so we can all enjoy these sophisticated electronics. Your time and consideration are indispensable!
> 
> Thank you, John.



These look fine at the high end. In fact, you've got so little correction needed between 5 and 10KHz I'm amazed you actually heard a difference in the two solutions.


You should look at your 10KHz charts again and see if telling ARC to correct up there caused some additional residual errors to appear at lower frequencies (in the mid-range for example) due to re-allocation of resources. That might explain what you were hearing. And if so, try adjusting a little either side of 10 or even go up to 15 to see if you can find a sweet point which applies the (minor) correction up there without screwing up lower down.


At the low end, your main speakers look fine, but I'm a bit concerned that your sub doesn't extend further up in frequency. You are already 10dB below the solution at 120Hz (which is pretty much the top end of LFE). So double check that you have disabled or bypassed any internal crossover in your sub. Sometimes that's a switch. Sometimes it is a separate input jack. Turn off any THX setting in the sub as well, as that will force an 80Hz crossover.


If you fix something there, you will need to re-Measure.


If you don't find anything there, you could try experimenting with raising the cutoff for the sub so ARC will use resources to provide some boost up there. That won't effect the steered bass from your main speakers as all that is happening at lower frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19072287
> 
> 
> These look fine at the high end. In fact, you've got so little correction needed between 5 and 10KHz I'm amazed you actually heard a difference in the two solutions.
> 
> 
> You should look at your 10KHz charts again and see if telling ARC to correct up there caused some additional residual errors to appear at lower frequencies (in the mid-range for example) due to re-allocation of resources. That might explain what you were hearing. And if so, try adjusting a little either side of 10 or even go up to 15 to see if you can find a sweet point which applies the (minor) correction up there without screwing up lower down.
> 
> 
> At the low end, your main speakers look fine, but I'm a bit concerned that your sub doesn't extend further up in frequency. You are already 10dB below the solution at 120Hz (which is pretty much the top end of LFE). So double check that you have disabled or bypassed any internal crossover in your sub. Sometimes that's a switch. Sometimes it is a separate input jack. Turn off any THX setting in the sub as well, as that will force an 80Hz crossover.
> 
> 
> If you fix something there, you will need to re-Measure.
> 
> 
> If you don't find anything there, you could try experimenting with raising the cutoff for the sub so ARC will use resources to provide some boost up there. That won't effect the steered bass from your main speakers as all that is happening at lower frequencies.
> 
> --Bob



With ARC v2.4.13 and higher, can we trust the correction above 5KHz now?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> With ARC v2.4.13 and higher, can we trust the correction above 5KHz now?



In my case it looks good up to 15KHz -- both the Measured data and the Calculated results. Sounds great.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19072185
> 
> 
> It's really just personal preference. My defaults for 2.0 input are:
> 
> 
> 1) Music sources -> Stereo
> 
> 2) TV Program sources -> AL Cinema
> 
> 3) Movie sources -> PLIIx Movie
> 
> 
> I don't use THX post processing at all anymore since I started using ARC. (And I leave Dolby Volume OFF most of time for all sources, although I'm still experimenting with that.)
> 
> 
> Now those are the presets. If I'm watching a movie on TV I'll likely switch to PLIIx Movie on the fly. Or if I want surround from music I'll switch to PLIIx Music.
> 
> 
> One useful mode (only available when THX is OFF) is Mono Academy. Use that for movies older than about 1950 (4:3 movies, usually but not always in black and white). The original, monaural sound tracks for those movies used the Motion Picture Academy equalization -- an aggressive treble boost designed to counter the fact that the speaker was behind the heavy projection screen, and that the audience absorbed some treble as well. If that isn't removed for home theater use you get the "old timey" sound from those movies -- brassy and hissy. The trick is that some discs and some broadcasts of old movies ALREADY have that removed. So just keep in mind that switching to Mono Academy is an option if you get the feeling that has not already been done.
> 
> 
> Modern movies also need to be re-equalized for home theater use. This removes the much less aggressive treble boost applied for commercial theater use. Now that is pretty much always done ahead of time for movies on TV or on disc (meaning you don't have to worry about it), but if it is not you can do it in the Anthem by pressing THX twice and using Up/Down arrow to toggle the re-equalization. Just remember to turn it off afterwards. Note that the THX re-equalization function can be turned on or off independently of whether the rest of the THX process is turned on for a given Source. So if you think a modern movie is sounding a little brassy to you, try turning on just the re-equalization portion of THX.
> 
> --Bob



Excellent advice.

Thanks,

tom


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19072287
> 
> 
> These look fine at the high end. In fact, you've got so little correction needed between 5 and 10KHz I'm amazed you actually heard a difference in the two solutions.
> 
> 
> You should look at your 10KHz charts again and see if telling ARC to correct up there caused some additional residual errors to appear at lower frequencies (in the mid-range for example) due to re-allocation of resources. That might explain what you were hearing. And if so, try adjusting a little either side of 10 or even go up to 15 to see if you can find a sweet point which applies the (minor) correction up there without screwing up lower down.
> 
> 
> At the low end, your main speakers look fine, but I'm a bit concerned that your sub doesn't extend further up in frequency. You are already 10dB below the solution at 120Hz (which is pretty much the top end of LFE). So double check that you have disabled or bypassed any internal crossover in your sub. Sometimes that's a switch. Sometimes it is a separate input jack. Turn off any THX setting in the sub as well, as that will force an 80Hz crossover.
> 
> 
> If you fix something there, you will need to re-Measure.
> 
> 
> If you don't find anything there, you could try experimenting with raising the cutoff for the sub so ARC will use resources to provide some boost up there. That won't effect the steered bass from your main speakers as all that is happening at lower frequencies.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you very much Bob, your expertise is Golden. I cannot find anything awry with the sub settings so I will take your advice and experiment with raising the sub x-over value to maybe 100 instead of 80 and try raising the max EQ to 10K +. Thanks again, John.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You should also be aware that repositioning the sub may open up its high end. The new Quick Measure feature could help with that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well I finally found a use for Dolby Volume Cinema. I was watching the Blu-Ray for "The French Connection", which has a gussied-up DTS-HD MA sound track that's absolutely unlistenable. The difference in volume between dialog scenes and loud scenes such as the lounge scene early in the movie is way beyond reason.


Anyway, DV Cinema with a Leveling setting of 5 made the movie tolerable.

--Bob


----------



## nahkmos




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19060406
> 
> 
> Send the Video Signal to another port on your display.
> 
> 
> BYPASS the D2v



Thx Drhankz! So there are no more solution to bypass the D2v when it is in standby...


Another question (sorry): is the tutorial to set the D2 with a DD15 on the first page already ok at the present time?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nahkmos* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thx Drhankz! So there are no more solution to bypass the D2v when it is in standby...
> 
> 
> Another question (sorry): is the tutorial to set the D2 with a DD15 on the first page already ok at the present time?



Use ARC instead now. Do turn off the EQ and crossover inside the DD15 so that ARC handles all that.

--Bob


----------



## nahkmos




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19076100
> 
> 
> Use ARC instead now. Do turn off the EQ and crossover inside the DD15 so that ARC handles all that.
> 
> --Bob




Thx Bob! So ARC can be used instead of all the DD15 settings excluding Phase and Polarity isn't it?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nahkmos* /forum/post/19076351
> 
> 
> Thx Bob! So ARC can be used instead of all the DD15 settings excluding Phase and Polarity isn't it?



Yes.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nahkmos* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thx Bob! So ARC can be used instead of all the DD15 settings excluding Phase and Polarity isn't it?



Excluding Phase and Polarity, yes. You should also pre-adjust the DD-15 volume on its settings page (not on the front page as changes there do not survive power cycles).


Use Preset 6 to disable the EQ (again set that as the power on default on the settings page).. Select the crossover in the upper left of the settings page and press Reset to turn off the crossover stuff.


I also suggest you use the max (8) setting for the servo (most "musical").


The Contour boost in Preset 6 should be 0, so the Contour Frequency doesn't matter. The subsonic filter should kick in below 15Hz which is plenty low enough yo stay out of the way.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Does anyone know if ARC turns off any mode processing(THX, AL Music/Cinema, etc) when its calibrating your room? How about in the Quick measure mode?


Thx

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes, ARC bypasses anything like that during Measurement.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19079901
> 
> 
> Yes, ARC bypasses anything like that during Measurement.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob ... on another topic here you mentioned not to use any modes that adjust frequency (such as the THX modes) with ARC. I agree.


But why would one use these modes with ARC anyway. Aren't these Dolby based modes lossy to begin with? I mean, Anthem doesn't engage lossless THX processing when playing non-compressed audio streams such as LPCM, DTS-HD and Dolby HD or does it?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I doubt the process quality is the issue. In the D2v all the processing is done at 192KHz anyway.


But what THX post processing is trying to achieve (see the writeup in the Manual) just becomes too audible to me when the Center and Surround audio is already so clean (via ARC).

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19080016
> 
> 
> Aren't these Dolby based modes lossy to begin with? I mean, Anthem doesn't engage lossless THX processing when playing non-compressed audio streams such as LPCM, DTS-HD and Dolby HD or does it?



It does. THX post-processing is codec agnostic.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19080079
> 
> 
> It does. THX post-processing is codec agnostic.



Thanks Roger ...Now since you are Mr. Dolby himself(







), is this post-processing lossy or lossless in nature?


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19080102
> 
> 
> Thanks Roger ...Now since you are Mr. Dolby himself(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), is this post-processing lossy or lossless in nature?



I wonder about this too though I've always assumed lossless.


----------



## budeone

I did a re arc with .15 last night. It really was a heck of a difference between .15 and the last beta I used a few weeks back.


I am glad I took the time out and did it again. Not sure if sub was one of the fixes, but it made a huge difference.


It takes more time to get the computer hooked up then arcing now.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I finally did a remeasure with 2.4.15 and did get a significant improvement in my bass. Previous runs were not able to flatten out the dip I have between 20 & 40 Hz. This is practically taken care of now.


As you can see my graphs are at 85 db even though I set the test level to 75db.


It does sound the best so far.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/19080764
> 
> 
> I finally did a remeasure with 2.4.15 and did get a significant improvement in my bass. Previous runs were not able to flatten out the dip I have between 20 & 40 Hz. This is practically taken care of now.
> 
> 
> As you can see my graphs are at 85 db even though I set the test level to 75db.
> 
> 
> It does sound the best so far.



Looking at your sub I don't doubt it sounds good







ARC seems to be doing the same kind of improvement on a lot of people's subs so no surprise that we're all noticing the same thing. Gotta love it







By the way, what sub are you using?

John


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19080786
> 
> 
> Looking at your sub I don't doubt it sounds good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ARC seems to be doing the same kind of improvement on a lot of people's subs so no surprise that we're all noticing the same thing. Gotta love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, what sub are you using?
> 
> John



You gotta love ARC. I'm using a Revel Performa B15 up front and an older HSU 10" in the rear.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19080102
> 
> 
> Thanks Roger ...Now since you are Mr. Dolby himself(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), is this post-processing lossy or lossless in nature?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/19080322
> 
> 
> I wonder about this too though I've always assumed lossless.



THX processing does not effect the definition (sample frequency or bits) of the input data, the same as any other processing within the Anthem. Therefore there is no extra degradation of the signal in applying THX.


As Bob indicates though you are setting up your sound preferences using ARC and therefore to change the sound shape using THX seems a little redundant and may overemphasize certain frequencies.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/19080878
> 
> 
> You gotta love ARC. I'm using a Revel Performa B15 up front and an older HSU 10" in the rear.



Well it looks great. My sub 25 chart looks very similar and I can tell you the LFE is concusive now best it has been.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19080102
> 
> 
> Thanks Roger ...Now since you are Mr. Dolby himself(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), is this post-processing lossy or lossless in nature?



I think you may have a misunderstanding of what "lossless" means in the context of home theater audio.


"Lossless" does not mean, "highest quality; can't be bettered". The DTS-HD MA track I just suffered through on "The French Connection" Blu-Ray is "lossless", and it is awful.


Lossless, as applied to these new audio codecs means that the act of processing the studio master to produce the more compact form delivered on disc as TrueHD or DTS-HD MA can be reversed in the listener's equipment "without loss". That is, what comes out of the TrueHD or DTS-HD MA decoder is bit for bit identical to what went into the encoder at the studio.


If what went in was garbage to begin with, then that same garbage comes out the other end in your player.


Contrast with traditional Dolby Digital or DTS, which are lossy. What comes out of the decoder at home is NOT the same as the studio master that went into the encoder in the studio. Some of the quality is deliberately discarded in the encoding process to produce an even more compact form to put on disc. This is particularly crucial for SD-DVDs which have severe capacity and data-rate constraints.


Now the characteristics of the audio that get discarded are cleverly chosen by both Dolby Labs and DTS, so these traditional, lossy tracks still sound quite good (assuming the studio master was any good to begin with). So good in fact that some folks may have trouble hearing the difference if the identical master is encoded as lossy vs. lossless. The big difference is that time spent building nuances into a better master track isn't wasted effort if you know it is going to get a lossless encode.


The lossless formats still produce a more compact track than the raw studio master (important both because it takes less space to store on disc, and also less bits/second to read off the disc), but they can't produce AS MUCH compression as the lossy formats because the lossless formats have the extra constraint that they must be completely reversible -- without loss -- when decoded at home.


---------------------------------------


But the packing formats, whether the traditional lossy or the new lossless, don't produce sound on the speakers, and aren't amenable to audio processing. Before you can DO anything with them, they need to be decoded into their component LPCM streams -- one per speaker. The lossless formats are lossless in the sense that each decoded LPCM stream is identical to the master track LPCM stream that went into the encoder in the studio.


Once decoded into LPCM there is no longer any clue as to how they were packed up to put on disc. The track on the disc might have been DD, DTS, TrueHD, DTS-HD MA, etc., or even a raw LPCM track that wasn't compressed at all. The characteristics of the LPCM stream are (1) number of samples per second, and (2) bits per sample. These characteristics determine the frequency range and dynamic range the LPCM stream can represent. And again, whether that stream came out of a TrueHD decoder or a DTS-HD MA decoder or straight off disc as a raw LPCM track is no longer relevant.


And THAT'S what the audio processing deals with: ARC, THX, Dolby Volume, Surround Mode processing, etc. A set of LPCM streams.


So the question is not whether the Anthem's processing of this now-decoded audio is "lossless" -- i.e., there's no packing/unpacking going on any more. Instead, the question is whether the Anthem's processing of LPCM streams preserves the quality that's in the stream.


Short answer: It does. All of it.


The D2v upsamples all audio inputs to 192KHz prior to processing and preserves 24 bits per sample through the processing. The processed, end-result is fed into the DACs at 192KHz/24-bit for conversion to analog for output. This exceeds the quality of the audio input (any format) and exceeds what human hearing can distinguish both for frequency range and for dynamic range.


So the math that goes on inside the D2v is not a problem.


That just leaves the algorithm itself. Imagine you turned on an audio feature that, by design, eliminated all the mid-range frequencies. It wouldn't matter how good the audio input was, or how good the math (processing) was in the D2v, the end result would still sound awful.


THX post processing doesn't do that of course, but it does other modifications to the audio stream intended to make the surround sound more enveloping than what was built into the track to begin with -- in theory correcting for deficiencies inherent in listening to this stuff in a home theater.


The theory is fine, but to my ears, ARC's unmodified output is so clean that when I turn on THX post processing I can hear it changing things and I don't like that. It's just a matter of personal preference. That is, my ears don't think adding THX is an improvement.


But that's not because of the quality of the processing in the D2v. It's just what THX does. Before ARC, I used THX all the time with movie tracks. Now I don't.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/19080764
> 
> 
> I finally did a remeasure with 2.4.15 and did get a significant improvement in my bass. Previous runs were not able to flatten out the dip I have between 20 & 40 Hz. This is practically taken care of now.
> 
> 
> As you can see my graphs are at 85 db even though I set the test level to 75db.
> 
> 
> It does sound the best so far.



Looks good!


Has anyone tested yet to see whether the solution ARC V2.4.15 is building is actually louder than a 75dB solution from "official" ARC V2.4?


The way to do this is to play a calibration track at a known Main Volume knob setting -- i.e., one which was known to produce 75dB SPL from that track when using your ARC V2.4, 75dB solution (i.e., the V2.4 charts showing 75dB).


Now play that same track at that same volume knob setting using your ARC V2.4.15 solution (which is showing 82-85dB on the charts). Do you get 75 or 85dB SPL from the speakers when playing that test track?


What could very well be going on here is that the ARC engineers decided to change what the ARC charts SHOW. It used to be the ARC charts corresponded to a -10dB Main Volume setting -- just like the Setup > Level Calibration tones do. I.e., if you set 75dB on the Level Calibration tones, then you would expect to get 75dB when playing "reference level" audio input sources whenever you have a Main Volume setting of -10dB. [NOTE: "Reference Level" is not peak level, which can easily be 15dB higher on many audio tracks.]


It may simply be that the ARC team decided to change the charts so that they NOW show the expected output corresponding to a Main Volume setting of 0dB!


If that's the case, then we would continue to set 75dB using the Level Calibration tones, expecting a charted solution from the new ARC near 85dB, but where the same Main Volume setting produces 75dB from the calibration disc test tracks as with the older ARC's 75dB solution.


I.e., the only difference is that what the new charts are showing corresponds to a 0dB Main Volume instead of a -10dB Main Volume.


I can test this myself when I can get around to re-Measuring, but I can't do that right now. Perhaps someone else here can test and report faster.


To do this, you simply need to know that some specific calibration disc test track, played at some specific Main Volume knob setting, produced such and so SPL reading using your prior ARC V2.4 solution which had 75dB on the charts. Note that the volume knob setting which works for this with any given track may not be -10dB or 0dB as each disc has its own idea of what volume to put on its test tracks. For example, in my case, I know that the AIX Calibration Blu-Ray disc "Channel ID" tests produce 75dB SPL in my setup with a main volume setting of -15dB. That's also true right now with my current ARC V2.4.13 solution (which shows 92dB on the charts). So I know that .13 has not actually produced a louder solution despite the SPL numbers on the charts. We need to do the same sort of test with .15.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19081262
> 
> 
> I think you may have a misunderstanding of what "lossless" means in the context of home theater audio.
> 
> 
> "Lossless" does not mean, "highest quality; can't be bettered". The DTS-HD MA track I just suffered through on "The French Connection" Blu-Ray is "lossless", and it is awful.
> 
> 
> Lossless, as applied to these new audio codecs means that the act of processing the studio master to produce the more compact form delivered on disc as TrueHD or DTS-HD MA can be reversed in the listener's equipment "without loss". That is, what comes out of the TrueHD or DTS-HD MA decoder is bit for bit identical to what went into the encoder at the studio.
> 
> 
> If what went in was garbage to begin with, then that same garbage comes out the other end in your player.
> 
> 
> Contrast with traditional Dolby Digital or DTS, which are lossy. What comes out of the decoder at home is NOT the same as the studio master that went into the encoder in the studio. Some of the quality is deliberately discarded in the encoding process to produce an even more compact form to put on disc. This is particularly crucial for SD-DVDs which have severe capacity and data-rate constraints.
> 
> 
> Now the characteristics of the audio that get discarded are cleverly chosen by both Dolby Labs and DTS, so these traditional, lossy tracks still sound quite good (assuming the studio master was any good to begin with). So good in fact that some folks may have trouble hearing the difference if the identical master is encoded as lossy vs. lossless. The big difference is that time spent building nuances into a better master track isn't wasted effort if you know it is going to get a lossless encode.
> 
> 
> The lossless formats still produce a more compact track than the raw studio master (important both because it takes less space to store on disc, and also less bits/second to read off the disc), but they can't produce AS MUCH compression as the lossy formats because the lossless formats have the extra constraint that they must be completely reversible -- without loss -- when decoded at home.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> But the packing formats, whether the traditional lossy or the new lossless, don't produce sound on the speakers, and aren't amenable to audio processing. Before you can DO anything with them, they need to be decoded into their component LPCM streams -- one per speaker. The lossless formats are lossless in the sense that each decoded LPCM stream is identical to the master track LPCM stream that went into the encoder in the studio.
> 
> 
> Once decoded into LPCM there is no longer any clue as to how they were packed up to put on disc. The track on the disc might have been DD, DTS, TrueHD, DTS-HD MA, etc., or even a raw LPCM track that wasn't compressed at all. The characteristics of the LPCM stream are (1) number of samples per second, and (2) bits per sample. These characteristics determine the frequency range and dynamic range the LPCM stream can represent. And again, whether that stream came out of a TrueHD decoder or a DTS-HD MA decoder or straight off disc as a raw LPCM track is no longer relevant.
> 
> 
> And THAT'S what the audio processing deals with: ARC, THX, Dolby Volume, Surround Mode processing, etc. A set of LPCM streams.
> 
> 
> So the question is not whether the Anthem's processing of this now-decoded audio is "lossless" -- i.e., there's no packing/unpacking going on any more. Instead, the question is whether the Anthem's processing of LPCM streams preserves the quality that's in the stream.
> 
> 
> Short answer: It does. All of it.
> 
> 
> The D2v upsamples all audio inputs to 192KHz prior to processing and preserves 24 bits per sample through the processing. The processed, end-result is fed into the DACs at 192KHz/24-bit for conversion to analog for output. This exceeds the quality of the audio input (any format) and exceeds what human hearing can distinguish both for frequency range and for dynamic range.
> 
> 
> So the math that goes on inside the D2v is not a problem.
> 
> 
> That just leaves the algorithm itself. Imagine you turned on an audio feature that, by design, eliminated all the mid-range frequencies. It wouldn't matter how good the audio input was, or how good the math (processing) was in the D2v, the end result would still sound awful.
> 
> 
> THX post processing doesn't do that of course, but it does other modifications to the audio stream intended to make the surround sound more enveloping than what was built into the track to begin with -- in theory correcting for deficiencies inherent in listening to this stuff in a home theater.
> 
> 
> The theory is fine, but to my ears, ARC's unmodified output is so clean that when I turn on THX post processing I can hear it changing things and I don't like that. It's just a matter of personal preference. That is, my ears don't think adding THX is an improvement.
> 
> 
> But that's not because of the quality of the processing in the D2v. It's just what THX does. Before ARC, I used THX all the time with movie tracks. Now I don't.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Thanks for the detailed and helpful explanation. I was thinking that THX post-processing (and others) 'dropped bits' when fed a lossless data stream as part of their psychoacoustic based algorithms. From what I gather now, they simply change the frequency envelope of the data-stream (lossless or not) to account for the different listening environments between the studio/movie theater and regular consumer home. This frequency emphasis & de-emphasis is mainly what THX does, correct? Reminds me of the similar methods used in AM/FM radio and Dolby NR for tape recorders back in the day







!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

They are also changing the phase in the surrounds -- kind of like the hack recommended by some audio installers to deliberately use the wrong distance setting for your surrounds.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19080102
> 
> 
> Thanks Roger ...Now since you are Mr. Dolby himself(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), is this post-processing lossy or lossless in nature?



The terms lossy and lossless refer to audio compression. THX does not perform compression, just signal processing. And there is practically no such thing as listening to audio without signal processing--it's a fact of life. Now all we have to decide is which processing is good and which is bad!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/19080891
> 
> 
> THX processing does not effect the definition (sample frequency or bits) of the input data, the same as any other processing within the Anthem. Therefore there is no extra degradation of the signal in applying THX.



Degradation is in the ear of the beholder. Some folks think HF rolloff is degradation, or dynamic decorrelation, or ASA cross cancelling... or bass management or PEQ for that matter.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19081262
> 
> 
> Contrast with traditional Dolby Digital or DTS, which are lossy. What comes out of the decoder at home is NOT the same as the studio master that went into the encoder in the studio. *Some of the quality is deliberately discarded* in the encoding process to produce an even more compact form to put on disc.



The quality is not deliberately discarded. It may be _inadvertently_ degraded, but what is intended to be discarded are inaudible aspects of the sound.



> Quote:
> Now the characteristics of the audio that get discarded are cleverly chosen by both Dolby Labs and DTS, so these traditional, lossy tracks still sound quite good (assuming the studio master was any good to begin with). So good in fact that some folks may have trouble hearing the difference if the identical master is encoded as lossy vs. lossless.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

White King: Tell me, what do you see?


Alice (peering down road): Why, I see nothing.


White King: Such eyes! To see nothing! And at such a distance!

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19081877
> 
> 
> White King: Tell me, what do you see?
> 
> 
> Alice (peering down road): Why, I see nothing.
> 
> 
> White King: Such eyes! To see nothing! And at such a distance!
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Chauncey

My D2 has stopped outputting sound. I'm running firmware 1.33. I've turned it off and unplugged it. It still won't output any sound. Any ideas? I've got a message to tech support as well.


Thanks!


Chauncey


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chauncey* /forum/post/19082294
> 
> 
> My D2 has stopped outputting sound. I'm running firmware 1.33. I've turned it off and unplugged it. It still won't output any sound. Any ideas? I've got a message to tech support as well.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Chauncey



Try the headphone jack to see if you get audio there.


If you are using triggers to turn on your amps, check the settings for Triggers and check your trigger plug. Make sure the amps are actually turning on (check at the amps).


Reset Factory Defaults, go into Setup > Level Calibration, and see if you can get audio from the test tones. Use Manual Test Mode in the first line.

--Bob


----------



## Chauncey

Thanks Bob!


1. There is audio through the headphone jack. There is also audio through the HDMI cable to the TV.


2. Amp is turning on. I have an EAD Powermaster, and the blue light is suppose to blink if something is wrong. It is not blinking.


3. No audio through the test tones. Nothing after I reset to factor defaults.


I'll add that the Anthem is very slow to react to remote commands. For example, when I tried to get the test tones, I turned it to manual, and I have to wait quite a while before the screen will react.


Thanks!


Chauncey


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chauncey* /forum/post/19082478
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob!
> 
> 
> 1. There is audio through the headphone jack. There is also audio through the HDMI cable to the TV.
> 
> 
> 2. Amp is turning on. I have an EAD Powermaster, and the blue light is suppose to blink if something is wrong. It is not blinking.
> 
> 
> 3. No audio through the test tones. Nothing after I reset to factor defaults.
> 
> 
> I'll add that the Anthem is very slow to react to remote commands. For example, when I tried to get the test tones, I turned it to manual, and I have to wait quite a while before the screen will react.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think its time to try a firmware reload.
> 
> 
> Chauncey



I think its time for a firmware reload. 1.47f perhaps?


----------



## Chauncey

Where can I get software 1.47f. I search the Anthem site, and I could only find 1.33.


Thanks!


Chauncey


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chauncey* /forum/post/19082600
> 
> 
> Where can I get software 1.47f. I search the Anthem site, and I could only find 1.33.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Chauncey



Email Anthem tech support for the password and link.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chauncey* /forum/post/19082600
> 
> 
> Where can I get software 1.47f. I search the Anthem site, and I could only find 1.33.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Chauncey



Send an e-mail to anthem to get the username and password to their tech support site. Once you get that, you can download it from their tech support site. However, you have to make sure that v1.47f can work on your D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chauncey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob!
> 
> 
> 1. There is audio through the headphone jack. There is also audio through the HDMI cable to the TV.
> 
> 
> 2. Amp is turning on. I have an EAD Powermaster, and the blue light is suppose to blink if something is wrong. It is not blinking.
> 
> 
> 3. No audio through the test tones. Nothing after I reset to factor defaults.
> 
> 
> I'll add that the Anthem is very slow to react to remote commands. For example, when I tried to get the test tones, I turned it to manual, and I have to wait quite a while before the screen will react.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Chauncey



The fact that it is slow to react to commands is a sure sign the firmware is corrupted. Re-install V1.33 or check with Anthem to see if you can use "test" V1.47f.


This can happen with the D2 if you have a power failure or switch off wall power to your setup instead of letting the various devices power down normally. What happens is that some device, likely an amp, unloads the energy in its power supply down the cables back into the D2. That's what nails the firmware.


[This would be a design flaw in the amp.]


The big question is whether that also fried the audio outputs. A firmware re-install is the next step. Odds are in your favor that will fix it.

--Bob


----------



## Chauncey

Thanks for all of your responses.


I tried to reload the 1.33 firmware, with no luck. I was getting the failed to switch to 115200 kbs baud error. The installation failed after this error. I thought there was a problem with my USB to serial adapter, so I dug my old computer out of the basement that has a serial connection. I got the same error.


Any ideas for next steps?


Thanks!


Chauncey


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chauncey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for all of your responses.
> 
> 
> I tried to reload the 1.33 firmware, with no luck. I was getting the failed to switch to 115200 kbs baud error. The installation failed after this error. I thought there was a problem with my USB to serial adapter, so I dug my old computer out of the basement that has a serial connection. I got the same error.
> 
> 
> Any ideas for next steps?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Chauncey



Yes, Anthem tech support can tell you where to go to download the Flash Eraser. This is a Windows application that resets the programmable parts in the D2 so that it will accept the firmware install. It's pretty common to have to do this in a case like yours.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chauncey* /forum/post/19082294
> 
> 
> My D2 has stopped outputting sound. I'm running firmware 1.33. I've turned it off and unplugged it. It still won't output any sound. Any ideas? I've got a message to tech support as well.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Chauncey



Happened to me on my D2v recently. The settings on my FM stations were lost too.


Luckily for me, recycling the power supply brought the audio back. I think the culprit with this type of issue is a power surge of some kind which corrupts the firmware, despite the presence of power conditioners.


Ben


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19081330
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> Has anyone tested yet to see whether the solution ARC V2.4.15 is building is actually louder than a 75dB solution from "official" ARC V2.4?
> 
> 
> The way to do this is to play a calibration track at a known Main Volume knob setting -- i.e., one which was known to produce 75dB SPL from that track when using your ARC V2.4, 75dB solution (i.e., the V2.4 charts showing 75dB).
> 
> 
> Now play that same track at that same volume knob setting using your ARC V2.4.15 solution (which is showing 82-85dB on the charts). Do you get 75 or 85dB SPL from the speakers when playing that test track?
> 
> 
> What could very well be going on here is that the ARC engineers decided to change what the ARC charts SHOW. It used to be the ARC charts corresponded to a -10dB Main Volume setting -- just like the Setup > Level Calibration tones do. I.e., if you set 75dB on the Level Calibration tones, then you would expect to get 75dB when playing "reference level" audio input sources whenever you have a Main Volume setting of -10dB. [NOTE: "Reference Level" is not peak level, which can easily be 15dB higher on many audio tracks.]
> 
> 
> It may simply be that the ARC team decided to change the charts so that they NOW show the expected output corresponding to a Main Volume setting of 0dB!
> 
> 
> If that's the case, then we would continue to set 75dB using the Level Calibration tones, expecting a charted solution from the new ARC near 85dB, but where the same Main Volume setting produces 75dB from the calibration disc test tracks as with the older ARC's 75dB solution.
> 
> 
> I.e., the only difference is that what the new charts are showing corresponds to a 0dB Main Volume instead of a -10dB Main Volume.
> 
> 
> I can test this myself when I can get around to re-Measuring, but I can't do that right now. Perhaps someone else here can test and report faster.
> 
> 
> To do this, you simply need to know that some specific calibration disc test track, played at some specific Main Volume knob setting, produced such and so SPL reading using your prior ARC V2.4 solution which had 75dB on the charts. Note that the volume knob setting which works for this with any given track may not be -10dB or 0dB as each disc has its own idea of what volume to put on its test tracks. For example, in my case, I know that the AIX Calibration Blu-Ray disc "Channel ID" tests produce 75dB SPL in my setup with a main volume setting of -15dB. That's also true right now with my current ARC V2.4.13 solution (which shows 92dB on the charts). So I know that .13 has not actually produced a louder solution despite the SPL numbers on the charts. We need to do the same sort of test with .15.
> 
> --Bob



I would really like to know the answer to this question, might determine whether I wait for the next beta. Bob, has Anthem said anything about this?


----------



## Texas steve

John, Was this a remeausre from .13 to .15?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/19080764
> 
> 
> I finally did a remeasure with 2.4.15 and did get a significant improvement in my bass. Previous runs were not able to flatten out the dip I have between 20 & 40 Hz. This is practically taken care of now.
> 
> 
> As you can see my graphs are at 85 db even though I set the test level to 75db.
> 
> 
> It does sound the best so far.


----------



## jayray

OK, I've measured with 2.4.15 and below are my charts. I have only tested music so far and there is NO difference in the volume levels from my previous measurements which were at approx. 90 dB. The new measurement comes out at 80 dB but as I said, I cannot tell any diff and the volume levels on my display have not changed from what I played these discs at previously.

John


----------



## Texas steve

was this a re-measure and improvement in sound from .13/.14 to .15? I noticed a improvement in sound from .12 to .14 so the question is from either of those would there be a improvement in sound to .15?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/19080764
> 
> 
> I finally did a remeasure with 2.4.15 and did get a significant improvement in my bass. Previous runs were not able to flatten out the dip I have between 20 & 40 Hz. This is practically taken care of now.
> 
> 
> As you can see my graphs are at 85 db even though I set the test level to 75db.
> 
> 
> It does sound the best so far.


----------



## Texas steve

John, any improvement in sound from .13/14 to .15? I know you and I did see good improvement in .13



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19084312
> 
> 
> OK, I've measured with 2.4.15 and below are my charts. I have only tested music so far and there is NO difference in the volume levels from my previous measurements which were at approx. 90 dB. The new measurement comes out at 80 dB but as I said, I cannot tell any diff and the volume levels on my display have not changed from what I played these discs at previously.
> 
> John


----------



## studlygoorite

After reading about all of you that have run the new version of ARC and are raving about it I decided to jump in and give it a go. I did not have a SPL meter and you can see I am off a little with the volume. I was wondering if that matters or should I go get a SPL meter and redo ARC. ARC has my volume trims for my subs at -11 and the fronts at +12. I moved one of my subs and they are both still not in the spots where they will be upon completion of my room but the graphs look fine (to me).

Any input would be appreciated.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19084329
> 
> 
> John, any improvement in sound from .13/14 to .15? I know you and I did see good improvement in .13



Steve,

As I have only listened to music it is hard to say if movies will sound better, but music did not change, just the levels on the chart went down by 10dB. Will try to test this afternoon but I would be surprised if there was a sound quality diff. I did notice sound quality diff from 2.4.12 and 2.4.14 and that was noted by many users. BTW, I did a new measurement.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19084343
> 
> 
> After reading about all of you that have run the new version of ARC and are raving about it I decided to jump in and give it a go. I did not have a SPL meter and you can see I am off a little with the volume. I was wondering if that matters or should I go get a SPL meter and redo ARC. ARC has my volume trims for my subs at -11 and the fronts at +12. I moved one of my subs and they are both still not in the spots where they will be upon completion of my room but the graphs look fine (to me).
> 
> Any input would be appreciated.
> 
> John



What do you mean by "I'm off with the volumes"? You're coming in at 75 dB which is fine. Given your trim levels I would get an SPL and set your test level and sub so ARC doesn't have to trim them so much.

John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19084369
> 
> 
> What do you mean by "I'm off with the volumes"? You're coming in at 75 dB which is fine. Given your trim levels I would get an SPL and set your test level and sub so ARC doesn't have to trim them so much.
> 
> John



If done with a SPL meter isn't everyone showing around 82 on their graphs with the new version of ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19084312
> 
> 
> OK, I've measured with 2.4.15 and below are my charts. I have only tested music so far and there is NO difference in the volume levels from my previous measurements which were at approx. 90 dB. The new measurement comes out at 80 dB but as I said, I cannot tell any diff and the volume levels on my display have not changed from what I played these discs at previously.
> 
> John



OK, that's good news I think. It suggests that .15 really is producing a 75dB solution according to our previous criteria (i.e., showing what reference level input should produce as output with the Main Volume set at -10dB) but that the charts are NOW showing the expected result for the Main Volume set at 0dB.


If that holds true with other reports then the new procedure would be to set Test Level for 75dB (as before, since Test Level is designed to reflect what -10dB Main Volume will produce) but to expect to see 85dB on the resulting ARC charts.


Of course the absolute scale on the charts is unimportant so long as we know what it represents and so long as it is consistent across setups for everyone.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19084343
> 
> 
> After reading about all of you that have run the new version of ARC and are raving about it I decided to jump in and give it a go. I did not have a SPL meter and you can see I am off a little with the volume. I was wondering if that matters or should I go get a SPL meter and redo ARC. ARC has my volume trims for my subs at -11 and the fronts at +12. I moved one of my subs and they are both still not in the spots where they will be upon completion of my room but the graphs look fine (to me).
> 
> Any input would be appreciated.
> 
> John



You should DEFINITELY adjust the volume in your sub. Trims of -11 vs +12 are pegging the limits of what the Anthem can do in volume trim. Your sub's volume knob is set too high. A lot.


And the fact that +12 boost is needed for the fronts means the test tone sweep volume is too low and so ARC won't hear everything it should hear during Measurement.


An SPL meter is inexpensive. Less than the cost of many cables. Get it and properly adjust Test Level and then the volume knob in your sub. Then re-Measure for ARC.


Test Level probably needs to come up and the volume knob in your sub CERTAINLY needs to be turned down.


If the trims for your other speakers are not also in the vicinity of +12 -- if they are near 0dB or below for example -- then that suggests something is wrong in your amp/speaker setup. There should not be that much difference between your main speakers.


When everything is set up correctly ALL the volume trims Uploaded by ARC will end up being just a few dB either side of 0dB.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19084490
> 
> 
> If done with a SPL meter isn't everyone showing around 82 on their graphs with the new version of ARC?



Yes. But ARC likely has had to shift your solution because of the extreme volume trims it found it had to use.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19084547
> 
> 
> You should DEFINITELY adjust the volume in your sub. Trims of -11 vs +12 are pegging the limits of what the Anthem can do in volume trim. Your sub's volume knob is set too high. A lot.
> 
> 
> And the fact that +12 boost is needed for the fronts means the test tone sweep volume is too low and so ARC won't hear everything it should hear during Measurement.
> 
> 
> An SPL meter is inexpensive. Less than the cost of many cables. Get it and properly adjust Test Level and then the volume knob in your sub. Then re-Measure for ARC.
> 
> 
> Test Level probably needs to come up and the volume knob in your sub CERTAINLY needs to be turned down.
> 
> 
> If the trims for your other speakers are not also in the vicinity of +12 -- if they are near 0dB or below for example -- then that suggests something is wrong in your amp/speaker setup. There should not be that much difference between your main speakers.
> 
> 
> When everything is set up correctly ALL the volume trims Uploaded by ARC will end up being just a few dB either side of 0dB.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, I'll do that. One other thing I can't remember, with 2 subs what distance do you enter for sub? If one is 15' from me at the front right corner and the other is now 7' to my left at the left back corner of the room? Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19084619
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'll do that. One other thing I can't remember, with 2 subs what distance do you enter for sub? If one is 15' from me at the front right corner and the other is now 7' to my left at the left back corner of the room? Thanks



Use the average distance (11 feet in your case). Imaging is not important for the sub (since bass is non-localizable), but do be sure to check the Polarity/Phase combo setting you are using for each sub (controls on the sub) *AFTER* setting the distances for the sub and other speakers. Since you have 2 subs, you must re-Measure for ARC after making any Polarity/Phase changes for either of them (since ARC hears them playing together during the sub bass sweep tone).


The sub in the front of the room will likely work best with normal polarity. The sub in the rear of the room with inverted polarity.


Also since you have two subs, adjust the volume knob on each separately. As with Phase tests, just power one sub at a time. Zero the Level Calibration menu, set Test Level for 75dB, and then adjust the volume knob on each sub in turn (other sub off) to yield 72dB. When played together that will give you roughly 75dB from the pair of them.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Are there instructions for the new ARC features, like the ability to test just one speaker, included with the beta ARC downloads?

Are they in the manuals bundled with the download?

I will wait for the 'official' version, but I would like a little help in using it when it does arrive.


Also, I see a lot of you saying that your graphs look better, especially for your subs. Assuming that you haven't changed anything in your set-ups, is the new ARC processing the information differently? New algorithms? New philosophy that the engineers are following?


Tom


----------



## studlygoorite

Thanks Bob. Just tried to order a Radio Shack SPL meter online and they don't ship to Canada. I even called them, all The Source stores around me, formally Radio Shack, are sold out of them or have a different make, a Scosche Portable Sound Level DB Meter. I will keep looking not sure if this Scosche product is good enough. Anyone here use a Scosche?


----------



## jayray

Tested some movies and I can confirm for me, that nothing has changed in terms of volume levels with 2.4.15.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19084851
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Just tried to order a Radio Shack SPL meter online and they don't ship to Canada. I even called them, all The Source stores around me, formally Radio Shack, are sold out of them or have a different make, a Scosche Portable Sound Level DB Meter. I will keep looking not sure if this Scosche product is good enough. Anyone here use a Scosche?



I will try to find out where I got mine and post it for you. It was here in Canada and shipped pretty quickly from what I remember.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19084851
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Just tried to order a Radio Shack SPL meter online and they don't ship to Canada. I even called them, all The Source stores around me, formally Radio Shack, are sold out of them or have a different make, a Scosche Portable Sound Level DB Meter. I will keep looking not sure if this Scosche product is good enough. Anyone here use a Scosche?



Try this,
http://www.sonicboomaudio.com/cables...ca73336c7a089c 


John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19084913
> 
> 
> Try this,
> http://www.sonicboomaudio.com/cables...ca73336c7a089c
> 
> 
> John




Dude, thanks for this. I'm on it.


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

Thanks Bob. Just tried to order a Radio Shack SPL meter online and they don't ship to Canada. I even called them, all The Source stores around me, formally Radio Shack, are sold out of them or have a different m



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19084869
> 
> 
> I will try to find out where I got mine and post it for you. It was here in Canada and shipped pretty quickly from what I remember.
> 
> John



If you still are having problems, PM me, and I'll make arrangements to purchase a RS Analog model and I will FEDEX it to you.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19084927
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post
> 
> Thanks Bob. Just tried to order a Radio Shack SPL meter online and they don't ship to Canada. I even called them, all The Source stores around me, formally Radio Shack, are sold out of them or have a different m
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you still are having problems, PM me, and I'll make arrangements to purchase a RS Analog model and I will FEDEX it to you.



Thanks pal, I have ordered it and am now sitting waiting by the front door.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19084913
> 
> 
> Try this,
> http://www.sonicboomaudio.com/cables...ca73336c7a089c
> 
> 
> John



Ah yes, the thriving "gray market" in Radio Shack products!











I'm surprised they are still offering the Avia stuff, since apparently Ovation Multimedia went out of business. Perhaps the title got sold to someone else who is still making them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19084781
> 
> 
> Are there instructions for the new ARC features, like the ability to test just one speaker, included with the beta ARC downloads?
> 
> Are they in the manuals bundled with the download?
> 
> I will wait for the 'official' version, but I would like a little help in using it when it does arrive.
> 
> 
> Also, I see a lot of you saying that your graphs look better, especially for your subs. Assuming that you haven't changed anything in your set-ups, is the new ARC processing the information differently? New algorithms? New philosophy that the engineers are following?
> 
> 
> Tom



The "test" ARC download does indeed include a Manuals and a Utilities folder.


The new, draft Manual (for the D2v at least) has been updated to include Quick Measure (a very brief description) but NOT to include the additional sub related adjustments now found in the Targets window.


Note that Setup Editor will not be found in the Utilities folder as there is not yet a version of that which works with the Setup menu changes for Dolby Volume found in firmware V2.10. But Settings Backup and Live Video Settings Editor are both in there.


------------------------------


Apparently they've found a better way to balance the allocation of resources, and they are putting more effort into applying proper correction at the lowest frequencies. The results are outstanding.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19085046
> 
> 
> The "test" ARC download does indeed include a Manuals and a Utilities folder.
> 
> 
> The new, draft Manual (for the D2v at least) has been updated to include Quick Measure (a very brief description) but NOT to include the additional sub related adjustments now found in the Targets window.
> 
> 
> Note that Setup Editor will not be found in the Utilities folder as there is not yet a version of that which works with the Setup menu changes for Dolby Volume found in firmware V2.10. But Settings Backup and Live Video Settings Editor are both in there.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Apparently they've found a better way to balance the allocation of resources, and they are putting more effort into applying proper correction at the lowest frequencies. The results are outstanding.
> 
> --Bob



Just think what will happen when the MRX receivers come out with ARC. If I couldn't afford a statement AVR, I'd be running to get one of those. Word is with ARC they are sounding excellent









John


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19084325
> 
> 
> was this a re-measure and improvement in sound from .13/.14 to .15? I noticed a improvement in sound from .12 to .14 so the question is from either of those would there be a improvement in sound to .15?



I'm Bill and mine was from .11 to .15.


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19084851
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Just tried to order a Radio Shack SPL meter online and they don't ship to Canada. I even called them, all The Source stores around me, formally Radio Shack, are sold out of them or have a different make, a Scosche Portable Sound Level DB Meter. I will keep looking not sure if this Scosche product is good enough. Anyone here use a Scosche?



Try from Amazon, you'll find the right SPL (me I prefer analogue vs digital).

I live in Canada to.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19085115
> 
> 
> Just think what will happen when the MRX receivers come out with ARC. If I couldn't afford a statement AVR, I'd be running to get one of those. Word is with ARC they are sounding excellent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



It will be very interesting to see if people can hear any difference in the ARC results from the receivers vs. the prepros. That will be difficult to characterize due to the different analog sections of course.


But I suspect we'll see some problem rooms that ARC can solve on the prepros but not solve on the receivers. The better the room (the less correction needed) the harder it will be to see any difference in the solutions -- much less hear any difference. The trick is whether anyone will every take the time to try to use ARC both ways.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19085046
> 
> 
> Apparently they've found a better way to balance the allocation of resources, and they are putting more effort into applying proper correction at the lowest frequencies. The results are outstanding.
> 
> --Bob



Excellent!

I'm eagerly awaiting the official release of the new ARC.

Again, thanks to Bob and Jayray, et al, who are helping to work out the bugs.


FWIW, I asked Andrew about a month ago when the new D2 firmware was going to be released. He said it should be out at the end of August or early Sept. That, ofcourse, 'is subject to change without prior notification'







. It would be nice to have the new D2 firmware installed before runnig the new ARC.


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/19085137
> 
> 
> Try from Amazon, you'll find the right SPL (me I prefer analogue vs digital).
> 
> I live in Canada to.



The one I posted is analog, not digital. I agree with you, analog better.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19085169
> 
> 
> Excellent!
> 
> I'm eagerly awaiting the official release of the new ARC.
> 
> Again, thanks to Bob and Jayray, et al, who are helping to work out the bugs.
> 
> 
> FWIW, I asked Andrew about a month ago when the new D2 firmware was going to be released. He said it should be out at the end of August or early Sept. That, ofcourse, 'is subject to change without prior notification'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It would be nice to have the new D2 firmware installed before runnig the new ARC.
> 
> 
> Tom



Did he mention which year?










Seriously, it would be great news if they really can kick that one out of the nest.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19085188
> 
> 
> The one I posted is analog, not digital. I agree with you, analog better.
> 
> John



Nah. Your speakers will be teased by the kids at school if you measure them with anything less than digital.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19085246
> 
> 
> Did he mention which year?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, it would be great news if they really can kick that one out of the nest.
> 
> --Bob



Now that you mention it, he did not specify 2010.










Tom


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19085266
> 
> 
> Nah. Your speakers will be teased by the kids at school if you measure them with anything less than digital.
> 
> --Bob



You're right, but, old school.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19085266
> 
> 
> Nah. Your speakers will be teased by the kids at school if you measure them with anything less than digital.
> 
> --Bob



I don't usually care what other people think









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sure, sure, ignore the self esteem needs of your speakers....


But don't be surprised if they come home one day sporting tattoos:











--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19086327
> 
> 
> Sure, sure, ignore the self esteem needs of your speakers....
> 
> 
> But don't be surprised if they come home one day sporting tattoos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



ELAC speakers. German Engineering, even the screws are made in house.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19086327
> 
> 
> Sure, sure, ignore the self esteem needs of your speakers....
> 
> 
> But don't be surprised if they come home one day sporting tattoos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



The 3rd one from the right looks very much like the entrance to one of our public loos.


----------



## JimP

Is it possible on the D2V to redirect bass from all 7 channels to one subwoofer output and send LFE to another subwoofer output. This presumes that the D2V has 2 subwoofer outputs, does it?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/19087988
> 
> 
> Is it possible on the D2V to redirect bass from all 7 channels to one subwoofer output and send LFE to another subwoofer output. This presumes that the D2V has 2 subwoofer outputs, does it?



It does have two sub outputs but they receive the same signal so no it is not possible to do what you ask.


----------



## gbhodge

Bob/John- I would appreciate your comments on my measurements after loading ARC. I have to say the D2v is a special piece of equipment (and I was skeptical until John made some comments). My equipment:


Halo A51 amp

D2v

Martin Logan Vantage fronts

Martin Logan Cinema i center

Martin Logan Frescos rears

Velodyne DD12 sub

Panamax M1500


Also, is it best at this point to wait on the final version of ARC to load anything new? I appreciate your input.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19088074
> 
> 
> Bob/John- I would appreciate your comments on my measurements after loading ARC. I have to say the D2v is a special piece of equipment (and I was skeptical until John made some comments). My equipment:
> 
> 
> Halo A51 amp
> 
> D2v
> 
> Martin Logan Vantage fronts
> 
> Martin Logan Cinema i center
> 
> Martin Logan Frescos rears
> 
> Velodyne DD12 sub
> 
> Panamax M1500
> 
> 
> Also, is it best at this point to wait on the final version of ARC to load anything new? I appreciate your input.



what version of ARC are you using? Post your target window so we have some info on what ARC decided and whether we can change any of these settings. From your graphs it looks like 5K is set for max. correction freq. and your sub needs some work. Try raising the 5K higher and recalculate. Your sub has some kind of equalization which should be disabled before running ARC(Bob is very familiar with this). To correct this, another measurement should be taken. Low end for speakers look good, but highs could be fixed. We'll go from there. BTW, did I get the commission on the sale?









John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19088144
> 
> 
> what version of ARC are you using? Post your target window so we have some info on what ARC decided and whether we can change any of these settings. From your graphs it looks like 5K is set for max. correction freq. and your sub needs some work. Try raising the 5K higher and recalculate. Your sub has some kind of equalization which should be disabled before running ARC(Bob is very familiar with this). To correct this, another measurement should be taken. Low end for speakers look good, but highs could be fixed. We'll go from there. BTW, did I get the commission on the sale?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



gbhodge, Here's the link from Bob about the Velodyne. This applies to your DD-12 too.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post19077774


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19088144
> 
> 
> what version of ARC are you using? Post your target window so we have some info on what ARC decided and whether we can change any of these settings. From your graphs it looks like 5K is set for max. correction freq. and your sub needs some work. Try raising the 5K higher and recalculate. Your sub has some kind of equalization which should be disabled before running ARC(Bob is very familiar with this). To correct this, another measurement should be taken. Low end for speakers look good, but highs could be fixed. We'll go from there. BTW, did I get the commission on the sale?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



The check is in the mail John. I have version 2.10.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19088323
> 
> 
> The check is in the mail John. I have version 2.10.



2.10 is firmware, ARC viersions are 2.14.12,13,14,15. The last few are betas. If you haven't tried the betas, email Anthem tech today and they will give you the password and how to access the latest v2.14.15. It has been a very good version to use so far. I'll wait for the cheque









John


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19088363
> 
> 
> 2.10 is firmware, ARC viersions are 2.14.12,13,14,15. The last few are betas. If you haven't tried the betas, email Anthem tech today and they will give you the password and how to access the latest v2.14.15. It has been a very good version to use so far. I'll wait for the cheque
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



ARC 2.14.12. I have not tried any beta versions and was thinking of just waiting until the testing is complete and the final ARC version is released?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19088400
> 
> 
> ARC 2.14.12. I have not tried any beta versions and was thinking of just waiting until the testing is complete and the final ARC version is released?



That would actually be ARC V2.4.12, which is also a "test" or "Beta" version. The current "official", or publicly released, ARC version is still V2.4.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19088074
> 
> 
> Bob/John- I would appreciate your comments on my measurements after loading ARC. I have to say the D2v is a special piece of equipment (and I was skeptical until John made some comments). My equipment:
> 
> 
> Halo A51 amp
> 
> D2v
> 
> Martin Logan Vantage fronts
> 
> Martin Logan Cinema i center
> 
> Martin Logan Frescos rears
> 
> Velodyne DD12 sub
> 
> Panamax M1500
> 
> 
> Also, is it best at this point to wait on the final version of ARC to load anything new? I appreciate your input.



I've got a number of concerns about these charts. The most important is that you may have blown the tweeters on LF/RF. You are already down by nearly 10dB at 5KHz in the red Measured curves.


Play some stereo content with treble (e.g., a CD) using Stereo All audio mode. Go put your ear up close to each driver in each speaker and make sure they are all firing. If not, first check the wiring. Some speakers have separate input jacks for treble that are usually wired by cross connecting them to the other input jacks at the back of the speaker.


Next your sub is weak at the lowest frequencies. Right now it is showing as good down to only about 40Hz. This is not awful, but you are essentially losing all the subsonic bass that is more felt than heard. Your sub may be too small for the room or it may be set incorrectly or positioned incorrectly. Moving the sub against a solid wall or corner will get you some Boundary Gain boost down there. At the other end, your sub looks like it still has its internal 80Hz crossover active. You should disable that so the sub can go higher. Let the Anthem do the crossover processing.


You are showing a pretty significant dip at 10HKz, but that may be due to a mic calibration bug that was apparently fixed in "test" ARC V2.4.15. So don't worry about that right now until you get a chance to try the newer ARC.


Finally, the level of your solution is too high. Grab your SPL meter and go through the exercise of setting Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and also the volume knob on your sub before your next ARC Measurement.


Next time you post, be sure to capture and post your ARC Targets window as well so we can see the details in there.

--Bob


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19088686
> 
> 
> That would actually be ARC V2.4.12, which is also a "test" or "Beta" version. The current "official", or publicly released, ARC version is still V2.4.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Sorry for my confusion-I did load the v2.4 then as I do not have any test versions. I like what I am hearing, except from the sub. I am fairly new to loading and running room equalization, so I was thinking it might be best to wait past the last beta version and go with the final ARC release. John's comments on the latest beta version are making me rethink that.


----------



## LesPaul

I am running version 2.10 and ARC .15 and yesterday I did a little experimenting. Using the ARC tools test mode I was monitoring my LF speaker which is a B&W. I am still getting a 12KHz dip as I do from all my B&W speaker. Anthem even replace my microhpone. Yesterday I placed the mic 3 feet in front of my speeaker and even tilted it directly at the tweeter and I still see a dip at 12 KHz. I have set my ARC cut off to 10K Hz and it still stounds too shrill to me. I did not have time to try recalculating it again at 5K Hz.


To me it the sound is worse that when I was running the last released versions of the ARC and D2v software. Those versions still showed the 12K Hz dip but the sounds was not as shrill or bright as it is now.


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19088779
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Sorry for my confusion-I did load the v2.4 then as I do not have any test versions. I like what I am hearing, except from the sub. I am fairly new to loading and running room equalization, so I was thinking it might be best to wait past the last beta version and go with the final ARC release. John's comments on the latest beta version are making me rethink that.



The Vantage speakers are electrostats and do not have a tweeter. After I ran ARC, I set the sub input to "LFE" or bypassing the internal crossover so I think I am okay there.


I will either go to v2.4.15 or wait until the final ARC release to address the mic. calibration issue. Thanks.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19088765
> 
> 
> I've got a number of concerns about these charts. The most important is that you may have blown the tweeters on LF/RF. You are already down by nearly 10dB at 5KHz in the red Measured curves.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

He's using electrostatics. It is a typical characteristic measured response of such speakers as the sound beams vertically and horizontally. If the speakers are not toed in sufficiently, measurement at the sweet spot will show a substantial dip in high frequencies.

Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/19090168
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> He's using electrostatics. It is a typical characteristic measured response of such speakers as the sound beams vertically and horizontally. If the speakers are not toed in sufficiently, measurement at the sweet spot will show a substantial dip in high frequencies.
> 
> Ben



They also, I believe, need to have a lot of air space behind them to work properly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19090000
> 
> 
> The Vantage speakers are electrostats and do not have a tweeter. After I ran ARC, I set the sub input to "LFE" or bypassing the internal crossover so I think I am okay there.
> 
> 
> I will either go to v2.4.15 or wait until the final ARC release to address the mic. calibration issue. Thanks.



If you changed the crossover characteristics in the sub you will need to re-Measure for ARC.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19090183
> 
> 
> They also, I believe, need to have a lot of air space behind them to work properly.
> 
> --Bob



Not really, Bob. Because they are dipoles, the wall behind the speakers needs to be absorbant in the mid and high frequencies to prevent cancellation, especially if they are placed too near the wall. If they are placed further out into the room, then absorbtion may not be necessary because there will be sufficient time delay for the rear sound to return after bouncing off the wall to cause combing.

Ben


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/19090168
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> He's using electrostatics. It is a typical characteristic measured response of such speakers as the sound beams vertically and horizontally. If the speakers are not toed in sufficiently, measurement at the sweet spot will show a substantial dip in high frequencies.
> 
> Ben



Correct. I toed the Vantage speakers in after ARC and increased the upper end I was hearing. I plan to run ARC again, just waiting for the final version.


Electrostats typically need 2-3 feet behind them to breathe. I have that distance with mine.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/19089189
> 
> 
> I am running version 2.10 and ARC .15 and yesterday I did a little experimenting. Using the ARC tools test mode I was monitoring my LF speaker which is a B&W. I am still getting a 12KHz dip as I do from all my B&W speaker. Anthem even replace my microhpone. Yesterday I placed the mic 3 feet in front of my speeaker and even tilted it directly at the tweeter and I still see a dip at 12 KHz. I have set my ARC cut off to 10K Hz and it still stounds too shrill to me. I did not have time to try recalculating it again at 5K Hz.
> 
> 
> To me it the sound is worse that when I was running the last released versions of the ARC and D2v software. Those versions still showed the 12K Hz dip but the sounds was not as shrill or bright as it is now.




I would not EQ beyond 5k, in fact I have tried 1k and 300 hz. with satisfying results. Any frequency that has a wavelenght smaller than any of your room dimensions will travel within the room and would not be affected by room modes anyway. Trust your ears.


----------



## Macktrec1

Hello All: First time poster here and have a question. I can't seem to get the answer from the manual. Simply I'm putting my AVM-50 in a closet and want to use the remote control outside in my theater. The AVM is out of site or IR signal path. Is there a way to do this? Some type of cable I can connect to the AVM then out to my theater, maybe put next to my monitor? Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Macktrec1* /forum/post/19091571
> 
> 
> Hello All: First time poster here and have a question. I can't seem to get the answer from the manual. Simply I'm putting my AVM-50 in a closet and want to use the remote control outside in my theater. The AVM is out of site or IR signal path. Is there a way to do this? Some type of cable I can connect to the AVM then out to my theater, maybe put next to my monitor? Thanks.



There are two ways to do this. The more sophisticated method is to use the RS-232 (Serial) connection on the back of the AVM-50 in conjunction with a serial-cabled control system (e.g., Crestron brand). The serial port commands available are extensive beyond belief. This will cost more bucks, and needs to be programmed to do what you want. But you can do WAY more this way than you can with an IR remote control.


The easier/cheaper way to do this is to use an extender for the regular, AVM-50 IR remote. There are also two ways to do this. You can get an extender which terminates at the AVM-50 end with little IR emitter tabs. Just place an emitter near where the IR receiver on the AVM-50 can see it. Use the other emitters for other stuff in your closet. Alternatively, run a wire to the rear IR control input jack on the back of the AVM-50 -- see Section 2.5 in the Manual. At the other end the extender will need an IR receiver that can see your remote in normal use and of course the wire to run to the AVM-50. There are also IR extenders which have a box at each end (one to receive your IR commands and the other to drive the wire or emitter connection to the AVM-50) which communicate via radio so that you don't even have to run a new wire between them.


If you are interested in a programmable IR remote (some of which are quite easy to set up) then there is yet another way to do this. You can get a programmable remote that emits both IR and radio commands. Pair that with a radio receiver box near the AVM-50 -- again using either a wired connection or emitter to the AVM-50 itself. For example Logitech/Harmony sells programmable remotes like this. The radio signal will penetrate into the closet.


Oh, and before I forget: Welcome to AVS and to the Cool Kids Thread!


Have you really been lurking without posting for four years?









--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/19089189
> 
> 
> I am running version 2.10 and ARC .15 and yesterday I did a little experimenting. Using the ARC tools test mode I was monitoring my LF speaker which is a B&W. I am still getting a 12KHz dip as I do from all my B&W speaker. Anthem even replace my microhpone. Yesterday I placed the mic 3 feet in front of my speeaker and even tilted it directly at the tweeter and I still see a dip at 12 KHz. I have set my ARC cut off to 10K Hz and it still stounds too shrill to me. I did not have time to try recalculating it again at 5K Hz.
> 
> 
> To me it the sound is worse that when I was running the last released versions of the ARC and D2v software. Those versions still showed the 12K Hz dip but the sounds was not as shrill or bright as it is now.



Hmmm, I wonder could have changed?

Just speaking for myself, I don't believe ARC measurements above 5k.

At least I don't believe the measurements I get with ARC above 5k.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19091410
> 
> 
> I would not EQ beyond 5k, in fact I have tried 1k and 300 hz. with satisfying results. Any frequency that has a wavelenght smaller than any of your room dimensions will travel within the room and would not be affected by room modes anyway. Trust your ears.



My current EQ cutoff is 2k, 500hz below the xover to the ribbon.

Sounds nice.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Macktrec1* /forum/post/19091571
> 
> 
> Hello All: First time poster here and have a question. I can't seem to get the answer from the manual. Simply I'm putting my AVM-50 in a closet and want to use the remote control outside in my theater. The AVM is out of site or IR signal path. Is there a way to do this? Some type of cable I can connect to the AVM then out to my theater, maybe put next to my monitor? Thanks.



The cheap solution that Bob mentioned above involve using something like this (powered receiver):
http://www.hometech.com/hts/products...cv-ir2400.html 

The jack are for the emitters if you need to retransmit the IR signal to some other device in your cabinet and those are:
http://www.hometech.com/hts/products...ers/index.html


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19090506
> 
> 
> Correct. I toed the Vantage speakers in after ARC and increased the upper end I was hearing. I plan to run ARC again, just waiting for the final version.
> 
> 
> Electrostats typically need 2-3 feet behind them to breathe. I have that distance with mine.



Try experimenting with hi-freq traps, one each about 2 ft directly behind your Vantage. It may help further, especially with depth and detail. Also ensure both speakers are identically angled, perfectly upright side to side and back to front tilting. Especially the latter, since a 1 deg tilt change can be the difference between being too bright and just right. (My Summits are about 3 deg backward tilted from vertical. You'll be surprised how much these details add to the smoothness and extension of your ARC measured results.


Remember not to confuse with bass traps. Hi-freq traps like those from Real Traps are tailored for mid and hi freq absorption.


----------



## MACCA350

Searched the thread but couldn't find any references to this specific issue.


I'm wondering if anyone else has found their D2v outputs DTS-HDMA tracks about 10dB louder than all other formats including legacy DTS?


Let me explain, I replaced my Denon 3808 with the D2v(Australian version firmware v2.10) recently. After running ARC and checking levels with my Sencore calibration gear I sat down to spend some time listening to a few different movie clips.


Put in War of the Worlds Blu-ray and set the volume to -5dB as I usually did with my 3808. As soon as Morgan Freeman started his narration I knew something was wrong, it was just too loud, I got through to when Tom Cruise came flying around the corner and parked his car. So I tried the DVD version and sure enough it was lower and at a similar level to what I recall the Blu-ray being when played through the 3808.........no where near as loud as the Blu-ray played through the D2v, I then tried a few other Blu-rays and found a similar 'too loud' issue on all DTS-HDMA tracks.


Scratching my head this didn't make sense as I checked the levels with my Sencore DAG and SP495 so it should pretty close. I got out the old AVIA DVD, DVE HD Basics Blu-ray, and DVE HD DVD/DVD combo and checked levels with all of them using my Sencore analyzer and even gave my old digital SPL meter(which I've calibrated)........they all seemed to be within reasonable levels and definitely not excessively loud enough to be the source of my issue.


I checked my settings again to ensure all processing was equal while both tracks are being processed. ARC on, Dolby Volume off, DD DTS Dynamics normal, All Mode Presets set to PLIIx Movie........as far as I can tell all tracks are being processed identically.


Long story short, I ran a bunch of tests with different movies, different disc formats, different audio formats, different players and used the Sencore SP495 in LEQ mode with ~1min samples to get an average dialogue level for reasonable comparisons. Samples were of dialog scenes and I've highlighted the levels that showed excessive disparity.


Here's the data:










As you can see it seems to be DTS-HDMA specific.

I've had a talk to 2 other owners here in Australia to see if it is a common issue or a one off.


If this has been covered let me know, if not, could some check their units to see if they are affected. I assume this has only occurred due to a firmware update as I'm sure THX would not have missed this in their testing.


cheers


----------



## JimmyTango




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Macktrec1* /forum/post/19091571
> 
> 
> Hello All: First time poster here and have a question. I can't seem to get the answer from the manual. Simply I'm putting my AVM-50 in a closet and want to use the remote control outside in my theater. The AVM is out of site or IR signal path. Is there a way to do this? Some type of cable I can connect to the AVM then out to my theater, maybe put next to my monitor? Thanks.


 http://www.logitech.com/en-us/remote...s/devices/6442 


Look online for the best price.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19092901
> 
> 
> Searched the thread but couldn't find any references to this specific issue.
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone else has found their D2v outputs DTS-HDMA tracks about 10dB louder than all other formats including legacy DTS?
> 
> 
> Let me explain, I replaced my Denon 3808 with the D2v(Australian version firmware v2.10) recently. After running ARC and checking levels with my Sencore calibration gear I sat down to spend some time listening to a few different movie clips.
> 
> 
> Put in War of the Worlds Blu-ray and set the volume to -5dB as I usually did with my 3808. As soon as Morgan Freeman started his narration I knew something was wrong, it was just too loud, I got through to when Tom Cruise came flying around the corner and parked his car. So I tried the DVD version and sure enough it was lower and at a similar level to what I recall the Blu-ray being when played through the 3808.........no where near as loud as the Blu-ray played through the D2v, I then tried a few other Blu-rays and found a similar 'too loud' issue on all DTS-HDMA tracks.
> 
> 
> Scratching my head this didn't make sense as I checked the levels with my Sencore DAG and SP495 so it should pretty close. I got out the old AVIA DVD, DVE HD Basics Blu-ray, and DVE HD DVD/DVD combo and checked levels with all of them using my Sencore analyzer and even gave my old digital SPL meter(which I've calibrated)........they all seemed to be within reasonable levels and definitely not excessively loud enough to be the source of my issue.
> 
> 
> I checked my settings again to ensure all processing was equal while both tracks are being processed. ARC on, Dolby Volume off, DD DTS Dynamics normal, All Mode Presets set to PLIIx Movie........as far as I can tell all tracks are being processed identically.
> 
> 
> Long story short, I ran a bunch of tests with different movies, different disc formats, different audio formats, different players and used the Sencore SP495 in LEQ mode with ~1min samples to get an average dialogue level for reasonable comparisons. Samples were of dialog scenes and I've highlighted the levels that showed excessive disparity.
> 
> 
> Here's the data:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it seems to be DTS-HDMA specific.
> 
> I've had a talk to 2 other owners here in Australia to see if it is a common issue or a one off.
> 
> 
> If this has been covered let me know, if not, could some check their units to see if they are affected. I assume this has only occurred due to a firmware update as I'm sure THX would not have missed this in their testing.
> 
> 
> cheers



I think you have to check the level on the same disc and not a DVD to a BD. I have checked the Spears and Munsil tracks for their intro using PCM, DTS-MA and Dolby true HD. I used a terrasonde audio toolbox to determine the peak level of each encoding using slow and c weighted parameters and here are the results:


AVM50v is at -5dB volume level, player is an OPPO 83


PCM 103dB

DTS MA 100.3dB

Dolby true HD 103.8dB


Tried the material 3 times for each encoding and I got the same results.


Alvin


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19092901
> 
> 
> Searched the thread but couldn't find any references to this specific issue.
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone else has found their D2v outputs DTS-HDMA tracks about 10dB louder than all other formats including legacy DTS?
> 
> 
> Let me explain, I replaced my Denon 3808 with the D2v(Australian version firmware v2.10) recently. After running ARC and checking levels with my Sencore calibration gear I sat down to spend some time listening to a few different movie clips.
> 
> 
> Put in War of the Worlds Blu-ray and set the volume to -5dB as I usually did with my 3808. As soon as Morgan Freeman started his narration I knew something was wrong, it was just too loud, I got through to when Tom Cruise came flying around the corner and parked his car. So I tried the DVD version and sure enough it was lower and at a similar level to what I recall the Blu-ray being when played through the 3808.........no where near as loud as the Blu-ray played through the D2v, I then tried a few other Blu-rays and found a similar 'too loud' issue on all DTS-HDMA tracks.
> 
> 
> Scratching my head this didn't make sense as I checked the levels with my Sencore DAG and SP495 so it should pretty close. I got out the old AVIA DVD, DVE HD Basics Blu-ray, and DVE HD DVD/DVD combo and checked levels with all of them using my Sencore analyzer and even gave my old digital SPL meter(which I've calibrated)........they all seemed to be within reasonable levels and definitely not excessively loud enough to be the source of my issue.
> 
> 
> I checked my settings again to ensure all processing was equal while both tracks are being processed. ARC on, Dolby Volume off, DD DTS Dynamics normal, All Mode Presets set to PLIIx Movie........as far as I can tell all tracks are being processed identically.
> 
> 
> Long story short, I ran a bunch of tests with different movies, different disc formats, different audio formats, different players and used the Sencore SP495 in LEQ mode with ~1min samples to get an average dialogue level for reasonable comparisons. Samples were of dialog scenes and I've highlighted the levels that showed excessive disparity.
> 
> 
> Here's the data:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it seems to be DTS-HDMA specific.
> 
> I've had a talk to 2 other owners here in Australia to see if it is a common issue or a one off.
> 
> 
> If this has been covered let me know, if not, could some check their units to see if they are affected. I assume this has only occurred due to a firmware update as I'm sure THX would not have missed this in their testing.
> 
> 
> cheers



I have mentioned before that when I play DTS-MA tracks, on average I set the volume level to -18,+ or - 2 dB and for TrueHD, -12 to -14. This is with almost every disc I play with these formats.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

To check whether there is a volume problem decoding DTS-HD MA in the D2v simply play a DTS-HD MA track and switch your player between Bitstream and LPCM output. If the volumes match, then the player and the D2v are decoding the same way. Use a player known to decode properly such as the Oppo, and confirm that DTS-HD MA is being received in the D2v when using Bitstream (and not just, say, DTS which could mean the player is doing secondary audio mixing for example).


I've done this and found no problem.


The AIX Calibration Blu-Ray also includes test tone level tracks fairly closely matched in volume in the different formats. This is the sort of disc you must use if trying to compare two different tracks, but even with a disc like this you would expect SOME volume difference -- perhaps a couple dB -- between tracks.


I've tested with AIX as well and found only minor differences between tracks in the different formats. Certainly nothing like 10dB.


There is no reason a track on a Blu-Ray disc should be expected to match in volume with "the same" track on an SD-DVD, or even that two different track formats on the same MOVIE Blu-Ray should be expected to match. They MIGHT match, but that's more coincidence than anything much else. Heck, even the SAME track format could differ in volume between the different language tracks on a given disc.


ETA: Keep in mind some audio mixers will make a new track of a prior release louder for artistic reasons. Others to show off the extra dynamic range enabled by 24 bit tracks (many tracks on older discs had to be compressed in dynamic range, and some were compressed even more than they had to be for better reproduction on crappy TV speaker systems). And still others because these mixers know that people mistakenly hear "louder" as "better". It doesn't surprise me at all to discover that houses mixing DTS-HD MA Blu-Ray tracks have chosen to make them louder, particularly when compared to SD-DVD tracks. I wish I could convince myself it was for either of the first 2 reasons listed.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19093214
> 
> 
> I have checked the Spears and Munsil tracks......
> 
> AVM50v is at -5dB volume level, player is an OPPO 83
> 
> 
> PCM 103dB
> 
> DTS MA 100.3dB
> 
> Dolby true HD 103.8dB



Thanks for checking, maybe there is a difference between the AVM50v and D2v(ie one I can think of is the upsampling), or regions, or could be just my unit.


BTW my measurements were taked at -10dB Master Volume



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19093784
> 
> 
> To check whether there is a volume problem decoding DTS-HD MA in the D2v simply play a DTS-HD MA track and switch your player between Bitstream and LPCM output. If the volumes match, then the player and the D2v are decoding the same way. Use a player known to decode properly such as the Oppo, and confirm that DTS-HD MA is being received in the D2v when using Bitstream (and not just, say, DTS which could mean the player is doing secondary audio mixing for example).
> 
> 
> I've done this and found no problem.



Thanks for the reply Bob.


Current BD spinner doesn't decode the HD formats, only bitstreams them, so can't try that. I could decode in a PS3 and see what that shows. I'll check the HD DVD collection for DTS-HDMA tracks as the XE1 decodes and bitstreams.


I don't believe its the track mastering itself being much louder, sure there's always variations but 10dB is a major difference and as I mentioned I noticed it straight away. I've played many BD's with the 3808 in the mix and I almost always listen at the same master volume level, so when the D2v took it's place this issue was impossible to miss.............even the wife noticed it.


WOTW listening at -5dB Reference with 10dB hot DTS-HDMA playback does not pass by unnoticed.



> Quote:
> The AIX Calibration Blu-Ray also includes test tone level tracks fairly closely matched in volume in the different formats. This is the sort of disc you must use if trying to compare two different tracks, but even with a disc like this you would expect SOME volume difference -- perhaps a couple dB -- between tracks.
> 
> 
> I've tested with AIX as well and found only minor differences between tracks in the different formats. Certainly nothing like 10dB.



Ill see if I can get one sent over, I have a feeling this will be the only way to show beyond doubt what is happening. The Sencore DAG and other test discs I've used only have DTS, DD, TrueHD tracks but no DTS-HDMA tracks, so the issue does not occur.



> Quote:
> There is no reason a track on a Blu-Ray disc should be expected to match in volume with "the same" track on an SD-DVD, or even that two different track formats on the same MOVIE Blu-Ray should be expected to match. They MIGHT match, but that's more coincidence than anything much else. Heck, even the SAME track format could differ in volume between the different language tracks on a given disc.



Aware of that, we're all use to Dialog Norm and mixing variations......but we're talking ~10dB, not just a few here or there, it's perceivable twice as loud.


We should expect the calibrated levels to remain constant(ie max 105dB mains and 115dB sub at 0dBFS) otherwise increases will exceed predetermined reference levels.



> Quote:
> ETA: Keep in mind some audio mixers will make a new track of a prior release louder for artistic reasons. Others to show off the extra dynamic range enabled by 24 bit tracks
> 
> (many tracks on older discs had to be compressed in dynamic range, and some were compressed even more than they had to be for better reproduction on crappy TV speaker systems). And still others because these mixers know that people mistakenly hear "louder" as "better". It doesn't surprise me at all to discover that houses mixing DTS-HD MA Blu-Ray tracks have chosen to make them louder, particularly when compared to SD-DVD tracks. I wish I could convince myself it was for either of the first 2 reasons listed.
> 
> --Bob



In a calibrated system that extra dynamic range gets pushed into the noisefloor of the system/room. 0dBFS is the roof and we calibrate that to be 105dB from the mains, they can't even exceed that with DialNorm or other mixing funny business. All they can do is compress and increase the overall loudness of the track.........but I know what you're getting at.


This brings up a point on the issue. Lets assume the DD, PCM or TrueHD versions are playing at the correct levels, this means in my case the DTS-HDMA version is outputting up to about 11dB louder than reference.......that's 116dB from the mains, 126dB from the sub and around 135dB in full swing. That is most definitely not what is intended, advisable or in many systems even possible.


Anyway here's a few more tests:









Note the 'Knowing' variations. It seems the PLIIx processing on DTS-HDMA is increasing level by about ~3dB where Neo:6 or Rears OFF(no PLIIx processing) does not have the same effect. With D-TrueHD, PLIIx on or off makes no noticeable difference in level.........this scene has virtually no surround info, mostly center channel dialog. This doesn't account for the full variations but would suggest there may be a processing error or something else is amiss.


cheers


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Macktrec1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello All: First time poster here and have a question. I can't seem to get the answer from the manual. Simply I'm putting my AVM-50 in a closet and want to use the remote control outside in my theater. The AVM is out of site or IR signal path. Is there a way to do this? Some type of cable I can connect to the AVM then out to my theater, maybe put next to my monitor? Thanks.



Macktrec I just found a relatively cheap solution and it works perfectly. I have an itach gateway connected to my d2v serial port and use a program called Irule. They have a forum on here if you want to read more about it. Basically it uses an iPhone or iPod touch or in my case an iPad to control my theater. They are working on 2 way currently and I have spoken with the developer and he is using anthem as one of his test subjects for it.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19092901
> 
> 
> Scratching my head this didn't make sense as I checked the levels with my Sencore DAG and SP495 so it should pretty close.



I dropped in the BD and DVD of Toy Story 2 and found huge drop in level of the DD track on the DVD. PLIIx was on, but then I noticed it was playing the DD2.0 track, and one must manually select the DD5.1 track. In that case, the loudness was only 4 dB lower than the HDMA BD track.


(This using a non-Anthem processor.)


Just to confirm--were you using the 2.0 or 5.1 DD tracks?


----------



## daren_p

Hey guys, I did some quick skimming through this thread & there's some good info, I'll have to do more when I get a chance but I have some questions. I have a D1 & just picked up the ARC for it last night. So far I have mixed opinions on it, some parts I like while others not so much (& some may just take some getting use too). I'm running the OPPO BDP-83SE & was just using the analog outs for the HD audio on Bluray but obviously if I want to use the ARC I can no longer do this. I'm wondering, whats peoples opinion on what is better to do, run the HD analog out (with the limited OPPO crossovers, that I'm not a huge fan of (main speakers Audio Physic Scorpio's, rated -3db @ 30hz)) to see the benefits of the HD codecs & upgraded SE DAC's or go with the digital out so I can run it with ARC? I'm thinking the answer may be based on how "poor" the room is & how much of an improvement ARC can make?


I will post up results after more playing around but from first measurments, looks like I have some big peaks in the 70-90hz range & then some big dips from ~150-300hz. When ARC corrected this I now find that the sound is bloated in the area that had the big dips. Not sure if I just have to re-adjust but for music I don't currently like the sound (seems fine for the limited surround I've tried with it).


One other thing, is there anyway to trick the ARC setup to re-directing more of the low frequencies to the towers instead of the sub? I have been listening to my Scorpios without a sub since I got them as I find my sub (SVS SB-12 Plus) doesn't seem to keep up well with the quick punch & detail I get from the Scorpios (4 7" drivers per speaker), so I'd rather the towers cary most of the low end for the "music" setup. Arc selected 60hz as the crossover on the towers & 120 for the sub. I've played with some settings & have the towers down to 35hz (target still seems fine) & sub I believe at 35 as well. This seemed to help but was wondering if there was more I could do (or if its a bad idea to drop the sub target even lower)?


This setup is more geared towards music instead of an all out bottom end, HT setup, so I'm thinking I might pick up a pair of Totem Storm subwoofers, which I have been extremely impressed with the quality of bass they produce & should be a better match to my towers & also do pretty well for HT (well except for the lowest frequencies).


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daren_p* /forum/post/19095798
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I did some quick skimming through this thread & there's some good info, I'll have to do more when I get a chance but I have some questions. I have a D1 & just picked up the ARC for it last night. So far I have mixed opinions on it, some parts I like while others not so much (& some may just take some getting use too). I'm running the OPPO BDP-83SE & was just using the analog outs for the HD audio on Bluray but obviously if I want to use the ARC I can no longer do this. I'm wondering, whats peoples opinion on what is better to do, run the HD analog out (with the limited OPPO crossovers, that I'm not a huge fan of (main speakers Audio Physic Scorpio's, rated -3db @ 30hz)) to see the benefits of the HD codecs & upgraded SE DAC's or go with the digital out so I can run it with ARC? I'm thinking the answer may be based on how "poor" the room is & how much of an improvement ARC can make?
> 
> 
> I will post up results after more playing around but from first measurments, looks like I have some big peaks in the 70-90hz range & then some big dips from ~150-300hz. When ARC corrected this I now find that the sound is bloated in the area that had the big dips. Not sure if I just have to re-adjust but for music I don't currently like the sound (seems fine for the limited surround I've tried with it).
> 
> 
> One other thing, is there anyway to trick the ARC setup to re-directing more of the low frequencies to the towers instead of the sub? I have been listening to my Scorpios without a sub since I got them as I find my sub (SVS SB-12 Plus) doesn't seem to keep up well with the quick punch & detail I get from the Scorpios (4 7" drivers per speaker), so I'd rather the towers cary most of the low end for the "music" setup. Arc selected 60hz as the crossover on the towers & 120 for the sub. I've played with some settings & have the towers down to 35hz (target still seems fine) & sub I believe at 35 as well. This seemed to help but was wondering if there was more I could do (or if its a bad idea to drop the sub target even lower)?
> 
> 
> This setup is more geared towards music instead of an all out bottom end, HT setup, so I'm thinking I might pick up a pair of Totem Storm subwoofers, which I have been extremely impressed with the quality of bass they produce & should be a better match to my towers & also do pretty well for HT (well except for the lowest frequencies).



With respect to the connections you can try both for yourself use the analogue outs like you are but set the input on the D1 to Analogue-dsp which will then digitize it and use ARC in the processing. Set up another input for your HDMI connection and swap back and forth and make sure you have them volume matched.


For ARC you can force the fronts to full range with the check box using the advanced mode.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daren_p* /forum/post/19095798
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I did some quick skimming through this thread & there's some good info, I'll have to do more when I get a chance but I have some questions. I have a D1 & just picked up the ARC for it last night. So far I have mixed opinions on it, some parts I like while others not so much (& some may just take some getting use too). I'm running the OPPO BDP-83SE & was just using the analog outs for the HD audio on Bluray but obviously if I want to use the ARC I can no longer do this. I'm wondering, whats peoples opinion on what is better to do, run the HD analog out (with the limited OPPO crossovers, that I'm not a huge fan of (main speakers Audio Physic Scorpio's, rated -3db @ 30hz)) to see the benefits of the HD codecs & upgraded SE DAC's or go with the digital out so I can run it with ARC? I'm thinking the answer may be based on how "poor" the room is & how much of an improvement ARC can make?
> 
> 
> I will post up results after more playing around but from first measurments, looks like I have some big peaks in the 70-90hz range & then some big dips from ~150-300hz. When ARC corrected this I now find that the sound is bloated in the area that had the big dips. Not sure if I just have to re-adjust but for music I don't currently like the sound (seems fine for the limited surround I've tried with it).
> 
> 
> One other thing, is there anyway to trick the ARC setup to re-directing more of the low frequencies to the towers instead of the sub? I have been listening to my Scorpios without a sub since I got them as I find my sub (SVS SB-12 Plus) doesn't seem to keep up well with the quick punch & detail I get from the Scorpios (4 7" drivers per speaker), so I'd rather the towers cary most of the low end for the "music" setup. Arc selected 60hz as the crossover on the towers & 120 for the sub. I've played with some settings & have the towers down to 35hz (target still seems fine) & sub I believe at 35 as well. This seemed to help but was wondering if there was more I could do (or if its a bad idea to drop the sub target even lower)?
> 
> 
> This setup is more geared towards music instead of an all out bottom end, HT setup, so I'm thinking I might pick up a pair of Totem Storm subwoofers, which I have been extremely impressed with the quality of bass they produce & should be a better match to my towers & also do pretty well for HT (well except for the lowest frequencies).



Sure, you can continue to use the multi-channel analog outs from the Oppo BDP-83SE if you want. In the Oppo, set down mix to 5.1 (only 5.1 analog input on the D1). Set all speakers to Large (so no crossover processing in the Oppo), set the Sub to ON, set all speakers to the same distance (so no timing adjustment in the Oppo -- any distance will do so long as they are all the same), and set all speakers to 0dB volume trim. These Oppo settings are crucial as the D1/ARC is doing all that work.


Meanwhile in the D1, set the 6-channel analog input to ANALOG-DSP mode which will digitize the analog input so that ARC can do its thing. In addition to doing your ARC setup, you must also manually enter your speaker distances, specify whether your surrounds are dipole or direct firing, and adjust the polarity/phase for your sub.


Since there's no HDMI input on the D1, if you tried to switch to digital audio from the Oppo you would have to resort to Optical, which means you lose any benefit from the high bandwidth audio formats on Blu-Ray, etc.


As for your ARC solution, post your charts and also your Targets window so we can see what you are seeing.


Don't confuse the sub "cutoff" setting with its "crossover". The cutoff is how high up ARC does correction for the sub. The crossover will be uploaded into the Setup menu. It is common for the cutoff to be different for the sub from its crossover. LFE channel input is handled specially by ARC -- not affected by that crossover.


As for the "bloat", be sure to double check that you actually have Room EQ = ON for every Source in Setup > Source Setup so that ARC's room correction is actually happening. Otherwise you are only hearing half the solution (volume trims and crossovers). You may also want to reduce the Room Gain ARC detected and is attempting to preserve. Some Music enthusiasts find they are happier with less Room Gain for music than for movies.


As for adjusting the bass steering, yes you can do that too. You could, if you want, simply build a Music solution without the sub. Bass below the crossovers from the surrounds and center channels, and all bass coming in on the LFE channel, would be steered to LF/RF. Any bass too low for LF/RF to reproduce would be lost.


Or you could leave the sub in the mix and instruct ARC to use a lower frequency for bass steering from your mains. See the Targets window in ARC. That lets the sub stay in the mix to handle the very lowest bass. Note that if you have a sub in the mix, LFE channel input goes only to the sub -- no option. Which means the sub has to be good enough to handle your LFE. If you want LFE to go to LF/RF instead, don't include a sub in the configuration. (Some folks use satellite subs attached directly to LF and RF to support the lowest bass while still letting LFE go to LF/RF. But to do that you need to balance the volume and crossover between them yourselves as ARC hears the combo of main speaker and satellite sub as if it was all one speaker.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Also keep in mind that any STEREO analog Sources you happen to be using in your D1/ARC also need to be set to ANALOG-DSP (with Room EQ = ON) so that ARC can do its thing with them as well. E.g., if you are also using the dedicated stereo analog outputs from your Oppo BDP-83SE be sure to set Setup > Source Setup for that input as well. No special settings are needed in the Oppo as regards its stereo analog output.

--Bob


----------



## daren_p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19096418
> 
> 
> Sure, you can continue to use the multi-channel analog outs from the Oppo BDP-83SE if you want. In the Oppo, set down mix to 5.1 (only 5.1 analog input on the D1). Set all speakers to Large (so no crossover processing in the Oppo), set the Sub to ON, set all speakers to the same distance (so no timing adjustment in the Oppo -- any distance will do so long as they are all the same), and set all speakers to 0dB volume trim. These Oppo settings are crucial as the D1/ARC is doing all that work.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile in the D1, set the 6-channel analog input to ANALOG-DSP mode which will digitize the analog input so that ARC can do its thing. In addition to doing your ARC setup, you must also manually enter your speaker distances, specify whether your surrounds are dipole or direct firing, and adjust the polarity/phase for your sub.
> 
> 
> Since there's no HDMI input on the D1, if you tried to switch to digital audio from the Oppo you would have to resort to Optical, which means you lose any benefit from the high bandwidth audio formats on Blu-Ray, etc.
> 
> 
> As for your ARC solution, post your charts and also your Targets window so we can see what you are seeing.
> 
> 
> Don't confuse the sub "cutoff" setting with its "crossover". The cutoff is how high up ARC does correction for the sub. The crossover will be uploaded into the Setup menu. It is common for the cutoff to be different for the sub from its crossover. LFE channel input is handled specially by ARC -- not affected by that crossover.
> 
> 
> As for the "bloat", be sure to double check that you actually have Room EQ = ON for every Source in Setup > Source Setup so that ARC's room correction is actually happening. Otherwise you are only hearing half the solution (volume trims and crossovers). You may also want to reduce the Room Gain ARC detected and is attempting to preserve. Some Music enthusiasts find they are happier with less Room Gain for music than for movies.
> 
> 
> As for adjusting the bass steering, yes you can do that too. You could, if you want, simply build a Music solution without the sub. Bass below the crossovers from the surrounds and center channels, and all bass coming in on the LFE channel, would be steered to LF/RF. Any bass too low for LF/RF to reproduce would be lost.
> 
> 
> Or you could leave the sub in the mix and instruct ARC to use a lower frequency for bass steering from your mains. See the Targets window in ARC. That lets the sub stay in the mix to handle the very lowest bass. Note that if you have a sub in the mix, LFE channel input goes only to the sub -- no option. Which means the sub has to be good enough to handle your LFE. If you want LFE to go to LF/RF instead, don't include a sub in the configuration. (Some folks use satellite subs attached directly to LF and RF to support the lowest bass while still letting LFE go to LF/RF. But to do that you need to balance the volume and crossover between them yourselves as ARC hears the combo of main speaker and satellite sub as if it was all one speaker.)
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for all the help guys after some of the replies. I feel like a newbie, as I'm sure some of these questions have already been answered (& thanks for taking the time to do it again







). Is there somewhere I can read more on what all the ARC can do & how to use it correctly as it doesn't come with much (I see all the ARC links from your Sig Bob, probably a good place to start?)


I never thought about using the analog outs on the OPPO & switching to Analog DSP. The reason why I initially used the bass manager in the OPPO with the Analog outs was to take full advantage of the SE's 32bit DAC & bypass any processing by the D1. I was thinking my options were stick to what I was doing with no ARC or use the digital coax I also have hooked up & apply the ARC. So if I stick with the Analog outs & switch to DSP, I still get the advantages of the HD audio but the ARC corrections can be applied as well. The only downfall I could see here is I'm going from D to A in the OPPO & then back again with the D1 (so more conversions/processing). I guess I will have to do some comparisions between all three hookups to see whats better? (as I doubt there is a "set in stone" answer?) though since I won't be able to compare the analog outs back to back (since I have to enable/dissable the OPPO crossovers), it may be pretty difficult to get a descent comparison?


All the settings in the D1 were previously setup before ARC, so thats not an issue.


It appears I'm abit mistaken on some of the ARC settings, I initially thought the response cutoffs were basically the crossover settings & it sounds like this isn't the case (well atleast for the sub). So the cutoff for the sub is only the frequency it corrects up too & crossover is different, so am I able to adjust the subwoofer crossover or is it only set by ARC (thought I read your not supposed to play with crossover settings in the setup menu once your using ARC?) Does the same apply for the other speakers aswell, or are they different (seems like my cutoffs are the same as the crossover frequencies in the setup menu)?


Yes, do have the room EQ on for the sources I was listening too. I had actually increased room gain abit (4.5) as I was trying to compensate for the peak in the ~50-90hz range I'm use to hearing. When I took another listen today I think the issue might be the height the mic was placed at. I took measurments at an "ideal" height, relative to my tweeters but my actual listening height is about 9" lower (not an ideal listening height as its in a bedroom system, on a bed). Where I actually listen has my ears placed right between the two midrange drivers, when I sit up to tweeter height, the bloat seems to be reduced. I'm thinking maybe taking lower measurments might help in this area.


If some of my questions are common questions/answers (I'mn sure they are), just let me know where I should be heading to do more research myself, so you guys don't have to keep answering the same questions over & over again (on several other forums, some with "high up" status & know what thats all about







)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes the first post of this thread contains a gaggle of post links to tutorial posts in the thread -- sometimes called "The Good Parts Version". There are a bunch of ARC items in that list, some of which are getting a bit outdated now, but pretty quick to read through.


Browse those, and also read the ARC section in the Manual.


----------------------------


The problem with using Optical digital audio is that you are limited to "compatibility" formats. The high bandwidth formats can't be passed over S/PDIF connections due to lack of copy protection.


So really the multi-channel (or stereo) analog outputs are the *BEST* choice for connection to your D1.


Just be sure to turn off the audio processing in the Oppo (the settings I described above).


The digitizing on input and the DACs on output in the D1 are really quite good, and the advantage of letting ARC do its thing makes it well worth it.


----------------------------


Only the sub will have a crossover different from the "cutoff" setting. The sub's crossover is set according to the crossovers of the other speakers. So if you tweak the "cutoff" settings for the other speakers, their crossovers move as well and then so does the crossover for the sub. [Don't fiddle with the settings ARC Uploads in to the Setup menu.]


Think of the cutoff for the sub as kind of like "Max EQ Frequency" for the sub. It's all about allocating ARC's correction resources -- not having it expend resources correcting beyond what's useful.


Mic height (seated ear height) is very important for getting good ARC results. As is speaker pointing. If the speakers are mounted above seated ear height, consider tilting them vertically. Remember to always point the mic straight up at each mic position, and keep it away from reflective/blocking surfaces like seat backs or walls. Move the mic tip up a few inches, or forward about a foot closer to the screen, to get it away from a seat back.


The mic placement rules are simple but important. Position #1 should be centered at your preferred seating distance. This is the position used to select the volume trims. Subsequent positions must alternate either side of #1. Keep each mic position spaced at least 24 inches apart from any other mic positions (whether or not sequential). I use 30 inches. And some forward/backward is good as well as side to side because you want to sample the AREA of seating, not just a straight line across the seating. The most common arrangement has the outer mic positions set closer to the screen by a couple feet.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I have a D1 and an OPPO BDP-83 (not the SE version) and have found that on the newer audio formats using the analog outs so you have access to the lossless track makes a huge positive difference relative to the digital output. I have the OPPO set to do no processing as recommended above. I have a decent sub and use the same configuration for both music and HT.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I dropped in the BD and DVD of Toy Story 2 and found huge drop in level of the DD track on the DVD. PLIIx was on, but then I noticed it was playing the DD2.0 track, and one must manually select the DD5.1 track. In that case, the loudness was only 4 dB lower than the HDMA BD track.
> 
> 
> (This using a non-Anthem processor.)
> 
> 
> Just to confirm--were you using the 2.0 or 5.1 DD tracks?



Pretty sure it was the 5.1 DD track, but I'll double check and get back to you.


Edit: Just checked my notes and I specifically wrote down DD EX as I recall that's what showed up in the D2v, so yes it was the 5.1 DD track.


Cheers


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daren_p* /forum/post/19095798
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I did some quick skimming ...........



I have had the D1 for many years now and ever since the advent of ARC I have used Analog-DSP exclusively for all my analog inputs including those from my Denon BDP3800 bluray player. To me the benefits of ARC significantly outweigh the extra D-A/A-D processing steps which to me was inaudible when I did back to back comparisons between processing in the Denon and in the D1 (without ARC). Then when I applied ARC the soundfield just became that much better.


In the D1, you have a very nice machine with an excellent audio section (go back and read some of the reviews that came out on the D1). Once you have convinced yourself that the extra processing is not detrimental I think you will be very happy with it. By the way I do all my video proceszsing externally through a DVDO VP50.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daren_p* /forum/post/19096990
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the help guys after some of the replies. I feel like a newbie, as I'm sure some of these questions have already been answered (& thanks for taking the time to do it again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). *Is there somewhere I can read more on what all the ARC can do & how to use it correctly as it doesn't come with much (I see all the ARC links from your Sig Bob, probably a good place to start?)*
> 
> I never thought about using the analog outs on the OPPO & switching to Analog DSP. The reason why I initially used the bass manager in the OPPO with the Analog outs was to take full advantage of the SE's 32bit DAC & bypass any processing by the D1. I was thinking my options were stick to what I was doing with no ARC or use the digital coax I also have hooked up & apply the ARC. So if I stick with the Analog outs & switch to DSP, I still get the advantages of the HD audio but the ARC corrections can be applied as well. The only downfall I could see here is I'm going from D to A in the OPPO & then back again with the D1 (so more conversions/processing). I guess I will have to do some comparisions between all three hookups to see whats better? (as I doubt there is a "set in stone" answer?) though since I won't be able to compare the analog outs back to back (since I have to enable/dissable the OPPO crossovers), it may be pretty difficult to get a descent comparison?
> 
> 
> All the settings in the D1 were previously setup before ARC, so thats not an issue.
> 
> 
> It appears I'm abit mistaken on some of the ARC settings, I initially thought the response cutoffs were basically the crossover settings & it sounds like this isn't the case (well atleast for the sub). So the cutoff for the sub is only the frequency it corrects up too & crossover is different, so am I able to adjust the subwoofer crossover or is it only set by ARC (thought I read your not supposed to play with crossover settings in the setup menu once your using ARC?) Does the same apply for the other speakers aswell, or are they different (seems like my cutoffs are the same as the crossover frequencies in the setup menu)?
> 
> 
> Yes, do have the room EQ on for the sources I was listening too. I had actually increased room gain abit (4.5) as I was trying to compensate for the peak in the ~50-90hz range I'm use to hearing. When I took another listen today I think the issue might be the height the mic was placed at. I took measurments at an "ideal" height, relative to my tweeters but my actual listening height is about 9" lower (not an ideal listening height as its in a bedroom system, on a bed). Where I actually listen has my ears placed right between the two midrange drivers, when I sit up to tweeter height, the bloat seems to be reduced. I'm thinking maybe taking lower measurments might help in this area.
> 
> 
> If some of my questions are common questions/answers (I'mn sure they are), just let me know where I should be heading to do more research myself, so you guys don't have to keep answering the same questions over & over again (on several other forums, some with "high up" status & know what thats all about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



Here is a how to from Bob.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post18914184


----------



## daren_p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19097641
> 
> 
> Yes the first post of this thread contains a gaggle of post links to tutorial posts in the thread -- sometimes called "The Good Parts Version". There are a bunch of ARC items in that list, some of which are getting a bit outdated now, but pretty quick to read through.
> 
> 
> Browse those, and also read the ARC section in the Manual.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------
> 
> 
> The problem with using Optical digital audio is that you are limited to "compatibility" formats. The high bandwidth formats can't be passed over S/PDIF connections due to lack of copy protection.
> 
> 
> So really the multi-channel (or stereo) analog outputs are the *BEST* choice for connection to your D1.
> 
> 
> Just be sure to turn off the audio processing in the Oppo (the settings I described above).
> 
> 
> The digitizing on input and the DACs on output in the D1 are really quite good, and the advantage of letting ARC do its thing makes it well worth it.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------
> 
> 
> Only the sub will have a crossover different from the "cutoff" setting. The sub's crossover is set according to the crossovers of the other speakers. So if you tweak the "cutoff" settings for the other speakers, their crossovers move as well and then so does the crossover for the sub. [Don't fiddle with the settings ARC Uploads in to the Setup menu.]
> 
> 
> Think of the cutoff for the sub as kind of like "Max EQ Frequency" for the sub. It's all about allocating ARC's correction resources -- not having it expend resources correcting beyond what's useful.
> 
> 
> Mic height (seated ear height) is very important for getting good ARC results. As is speaker pointing. If the speakers are mounted above seated ear height, consider tilting them vertically. Remember to always point the mic straight up at each mic position, and keep it away from reflective/blocking surfaces like seat backs or walls. Move the mic tip up a few inches, or forward about a foot closer to the screen, to get it away from a seat back.
> 
> 
> The mic placement rules are simple but important. Position #1 should be centered at your preferred seating distance. This is the position used to select the volume trims. Subsequent positions must alternate either side of #1. Keep each mic position spaced at least 24 inches apart from any other mic positions (whether or not sequential). I use 30 inches. And some forward/backward is good as well as side to side because you want to sample the AREA of seating, not just a straight line across the seating. The most common arrangement has the outer mic positions set closer to the screen by a couple feet.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks again Bob & others for the replys. I did take the time last night to read over all the ARC links you have posted Bob (eyes are still abit sore







)


Looks like I'll probably use the Analog out/Analog DSP for Bluerays, so I can still play the loseless formats. Will leave the digital coax hooked up as well, just for comparison sake. For users that have the OPPO (guess specifically the SE) what about for reg dvd's, did you notice any differences/advantages for the digital vs analog outs? (will do my own comparisons as well).


Okay, think I understand the targets better now, changing the "cutoff" targets for speakers will adjust the crossover frequency to that value as well & by doing so, the sub crossover may/will be automatically adjusted to work with the new speaker targets. The cutoff for the sub is just the level it does correction up to & there is no way to manually set the crossover for the sub?


Once ARC has been run, should not play with any crossover or level setting in the setup menu. Now if I happen to find I want to play with the sub output for movies, is it okay to change that level? (not currently with the anthem but I believe I'm talking about the sub level setting thats at the bottom of the crossover page & has different levels for both music & movies, not the sub level on the tone calibration page)


If I'm thinking correct, if I tick off full range on the target screen, that will make your fronts full range & eliminate the sub being used completely, except for LFE's, which will still be directed to the sub? If I change the target value with full range ticked off, does it have any effect? If I do want the sub to play the bottom frequencies that my towers can't, I should set the target low on my towers & hopefully this will reduce sub output & have the towers playing the majority of the lower frequencies (as I said before prefer the bottom end on my towers vs my sub). This is only for music, for movies, the higher target of 60hz, that the ARC selected for my towers (actually all its selections) are probably fine.


I know the speaker size/configuration isn't ideal in their current setup but they were bought for the future when they'll be moved out of a bedroom, into a "family room". So I'll try playing with mic height. The speakers are time aligned & have a 7deg tilt back to the front baffle, so tilting them to position the tweeter to "fire" at my listening position probably won't work so well in this case. I may just have to put the bed on some cinder blocks










I took measurments like this as with my limited space I don't need to go wider:



--4--5

2--1--3


2 & 3 were 24" away from 1, 4 & 5 were atleast that far apart & 4 & 5 were atleast 24" away from 1, measuring on an angle. I'll have to re-check to verify but should 4 & 5 also be atleast 24" from 2,1,3, measuring straight forward? (seems like they should & I believe they were). Because space is limited, the right rear speaker ends up being basically right behind 3, while the left rear is 2-3ft to the left of 2. 1 as instructed is the main listening position & when there's two we listen basically in spots 1 & 2. Need to do some room re-arraging, which will allow proper placement on the rear speakers & also more ideal front placement.


Oh, one other thing. I bought my D1 about a year ago & I think the origional may have had it running with ARC (but he didn't sell the ARC kit with it, if he did). Is there any reason for me to now go in & use the erase function with ARC if he happened to leave his ARC settings in there? I did do a reset when I got it but sounds like that doesn't remove all ARC settings from what I've read? (though I'm thinking this isn't required as my new settings will just over write these). Only could be an issue if you weren't using ARC again, but if you've since done a reset & manually set everything up, could it still "screw" up the sound somehow?


----------



## gbhodge

I have a Panamax M1500 UPS/battery back up and a M5300 surge protector with my system. Before adding the D2v to what I have, everything was fine. Now, the M1500 AVR light blinks showing that I am below nominal voltage and the battery is boosting power. Sometimes this happens immediately, other times after a couple of hours use. Sunday, the battery ran down and I had to shut everything off.


There is a lot of power use hooked into the M1500- Halo amp, D2v, powered center channel and front channel speakers, DD12 sub plus tv, satellite receiver and Blu-Ray player. All of this was hooked in before, but with a Yamaha receiver.


Does the D2v increase power drain that much over a Yamaha receiver? I am thinking I may have to route some equipment to another form of surge protection.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19098939
> 
> 
> I have a Panamax M1500 UPS/battery back up and a M5300 surge protector with my system. Before adding the D2v to what I have, everything was fine. Now, the M1500 AVR light blinks showing that I am below nominal voltage and the battery is boosting power. Sometimes this happens immediately, other times after a couple of hours use. Sunday, the battery ran down and I had to shut everything off.
> 
> 
> There is a lot of power use hooked into the M1500- Halo amp, D2v, powered center channel and front channel speakers, DD12 sub plus tv, satellite receiver and Blu-Ray player. All of this was hooked in before, but with a Yamaha receiver.
> 
> 
> Does the D2v increase power drain that much over a Yamaha receiver? I am thinking I may have to route some equipment to another form of surge protection.



There is no reason to have your power amps, powered speakers or a sub running thru a battery backup. It is probably restricting their ability to produce peak power spikes by doing so even if the backup says it can handle the peak rating.

In the user manual Anthem does not recommend their use either.


----------



## glennQNYC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> There is no reason to have your power amps, powered speakers or a sub running thru a battery backup. It is probably restricting their ability to produce peak power spikes by doing so even if the backup says it can handle the peak rating.
> 
> In the user manual Anthem does not recommend their use either.



How would a battery (assuming it's functioning properly) "restrict" an amplifier's performance?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19098022
> 
> 
> Pretty sure it was the 5.1 DD track, but I'll double check and get back to you.
> 
> 
> Edit: Just checked my notes and I specifically wrote down DD EX as I recall that's what showed up in the D2v, so yes it was the 5.1 DD track.



Ok, so we can account for 4 dB of the difference you see, that being dialnorm on the DD track. As for the other 6 dB, it's in the D2V. Are you sure the DRC was not turned on? Other than that, I've run dry of ideas.


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19099907
> 
> 
> There is no reason to have your power amps, powered speakers or a sub running thru a battery backup. It is probably restricting their ability to produce peak power spikes by doing so even if the backup says it can handle the peak rating.
> 
> In the user manual Anthem does not recommend their use either.



The equipment is all plugged into the surge protector and it is plugged into the battery backup- this prevents the equipment from shutting down if there is a power loss. Texas is notorious for spikes and power issues.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *glennQNYC* /forum/post/19099988
> 
> 
> How would a battery (assuming it's functioning properly) "restrict" an amplifier's performance?



Battery power by itself would not be the problem.

The unit has to have adequate output capability to handle maximum and peak loads which requires pretty large unit and most do not.

You never mentioned the unit you are using and I responded in generalities and from personal experience.

Here are two generally good reviews

http://www.avrev.com/home-theater-ac...generator.html 

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/content...er-conditioner


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19100403
> 
> 
> Battery power by itself would not be the problem.
> 
> The unit has to have adequate output capability to handle maximum and peak loads which requires pretty large unit and most do not.
> 
> You never mentioned the unit you are using and I responded in generalities and from personal experience.
> 
> Here are two generally good reviews
> 
> http://www.avrev.com/home-theater-ac...generator.html
> 
> http://www.ultimateavmag.com/content...er-conditioner



Thanks. I actually did list what Panamax equipment I am using. I have a Panamax M1500 UPS/battery back up and a Panamax M5300 surge protector with my system.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19100835
> 
> 
> Thanks. I actually did list what Panamax equipment I am using. I have a Panamax M1500 UPS/battery back up and a Panamax M5300 surge protector with my system.




The panamax 1500 is rated at 1000watts. A good rule of thumb is to use 80% of that capacity. From your description, all of the components connected far exceeds the capacity of your UPS. ARC with its sophisticated Equalization may tax your amps a little more especially will frequency boosts. Try to remove your main amp and powered speakers from the pool of equipments connected to the panamax 1500


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19101707
> 
> 
> The panamax 1500 is rated at 1000watts. A good rule of thumb is to use 80% of that capacity. From your description, all of the components connected far exceeds the capacity of your UPS. ARC with its sophisticated Equalization may tax your amps a little more especially will frequency boosts. Try to remove your main amp and powered speakers from the pool of equipments connected to the panamax 1500



Using your criteria of 80% running at an average 120 v the Panamax would have 6 amp current capacity capacity.


----------



## MACCA350

Ok, so I took the opportunity to retire the aging Panasonic BD30 and picked up an OPPO BDS-83 which came with the AIX and Spears & Munsil.


***One big note is that neither of those discs contained test tones mastered in DTS-HDMA *5.1* which is the format that I've found major discrepancies with. Sure there's a DTS-HDMA 7.1 test and you'll note there is some behavior with it also.


So here is the data comparing Bitstreaming to LPCM output:










A couple of things pop out:

1. Both the D2v and OPPO seem to be adjusting for DialNorm on the DD tracks by increasing DD levels by 4dB(which as I understand it was an agreement between THX and Dolby to allow this automatic increase in THX products)

2. Both the D2v and OPPO seem to NOT be adjusting for DialNorm on the D-TrueHD tracks.

3. PCM 5.1 + PLIIx Movie processing in the D2v causes an increase in levels of 3dB

4. DTS-HDMA 7.1 processing in the D2v causes a drop in L/R channels of 3dB


I will run some tests on DTS-HDMA 5.1 tracks and compare the Bitstream and LPCM output to see if anything pops up......based on the above tests the LPCM output 'should' be 3dB louder if the D2v is correctly processing DTS-HDMA.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19100309
> 
> 
> Ok, so we can account for 4 dB of the difference you see, that being dialnorm on the DD track. As for the other 6 dB, it's in the D2V. Are you sure the DRC was not turned on? Other than that, I've run dry of ideas.



Yes I made sure Dolby Volume was off in the 'Source Setup' menu and also ensured it and 'DD/DTS Dynamics' were not on while playing tracks


I'm not so sure DialNorm is in play as the D2v seems to be compensating for DialNorm on DD tracks and increasing them by 4dB.

I had also thought DialNorm was responsible for 4dB of the difference leaving ~6dB unaccounted for. After seeing the results from these tests I wondered whether the PCM 5.1 +PLIIx issue was also present on DTS-HDMA 5.1 +PLIIx processing...........and the strange DTS-HDMA 7.1 processing leads me to believe there may be some other issue at play.


Will run some more tests.


EDIT: Here is War of the Worlds comparing Bitstream to LPCM output. Since it seems LPCM output with no processing is accurate I've used that as the comparator. Also the usual +4dB DialNorm didn't show up on this DD track.











As you can see there is a few differences there. Ignoring the DVD tracks, there seems to be an increase of 3dB in the D2v when decoding DTS-HDMA and then another 3dB increase when applying PLIIx to it.............there's 6dB.

The rest is probably DialNorm and/or remix/remastering.


cheers



EDIT: The chart shows under "AIX-Speaker Balance" an "DTS-HDMA 7.1" track. This is incorrect it is actually an "LPCM 7.1" track, so read commentary accordingly.


----------



## Roger Dressler

Nice work, Mr. MACCA350, or may I call you Mac?


I have pretty good idea why the PLIIx mode is unexpectedly adding 3 dB. PLIIx (and PLII) have an insertion loss of 3 dB so that when a 2-ch source of L=R=0 dBFS the C output will be able to add 3 dB boost without clipping (it's a steering thing). The AVR maker is to compensate for this loss by adding 3 dB in the master volume (post DAC). For 2-ch sources, all 5.1/7.1 outputs are to be raised by 3 dB. However, for 5.1 sources, the 3 dB boost is only to be applied to the channels processed by PLIIx, the four surrounds (not the L/C/R or the sub). It looks like they have just applied it across all the channels by mistake.


That explains why the 5.1 source outputs circled in red are 3 dB too high. In contrast, notice that the stereo sources are correct at 75 dB (circled blue).


If you measured the surround channels from PLIIx processed 5.1, you'd see they are at the correct levels.


Maybe someone can inform Anthem to have a look at that.


I'm not sure why the DD and DTS 5.1 bitstreams play at 75 dB with PLIIx. I'd have expected them to be 78 dB, too.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nice work, Mr. MACCA350, or may I call you Mac?



What......you don't remember me














I guess our last pm was nearly a year ago











> Quote:
> I have pretty good idea why the PLIIx mode is unexpectedly adding 3 dB. PLIIx (and PLII) have an insertion loss of 3 dB so that when a 2-ch source of L=R=0 dBFS the C output will be able to add 3 dB boost without clipping (it's a steering thing). The AVR maker is to compensate for this loss by adding 3 dB in the master volume (post DAC). For 2-ch sources, all 5.1/7.1 outputs are to be raised by 3 dB. However, for 5.1 sources, the 3 dB boost is only to be applied to the channels processed by PLIIx, the four surrounds (not the L/C/R or the sub). It looks like they have just applied it across all the channels by mistake.
> 
> 
> That explains why the 5.1 source outputs circled in red are 3 dB too high. In contrast, notice that the stereo sources are correct at 75 dB (circled blue).



That certainly explains most of it.



> Quote:
> If you measured the surround channels from PLIIx processed 5.1, you'd see they are at the correct levels.
> 
> 
> Maybe someone can inform Anthem to have a look at that.



Oh no, not more measuring







.............think I'll leave the rest to Anthem












> Quote:
> I'm not sure why the DD and DTS 5.1 bitstreams play at 75 dB with PLIIx. I'd have expected them to be 78 dB, too.



Yep it's quite strange that it is selective in which format gets mucked up. Also doesn't explain the extra 3dB boost on DTS-HDMA 5.1, maybe it's just doubling up?? And then there's the DTS-HDMA 7.1 which lowers the L/R by 3dB.


Maybe there's something in that DTS channel mapping(did they even implement that?) that is causing those DTS-HDMA specific variations.


Probably just a few firmware typo's










Cheers


----------



## dvcdude

Is anyone using a dedicated video processor with their 50V or D2V? I purchased my 50V for the audio side. I know it has the Sigma VXP processor, but i am considering a DVDO Duo processor for the interactive video calibration and processing. Just wondered if anyone on here is using an external video processor.

Thanks!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude* /forum/post/19103385
> 
> 
> Is anyone using a dedicated video processor with their 50V or D2V? I purchased my 50V for the audio side. I know it has the Sigma VXP processor, but i am considering a DVDO Duo processor for the interactive video calibration and processing. Just wondered if anyone on here is using an external video processor.
> 
> Thanks!



SAVE your MONEY - No DVDO Needed


----------



## Bob Pariseau

MACCA350,

Looks like you are closing in on some good stuff here. You should definitely email the results to Anthem tech support.


It appears one reason you are seeing problems where I am not is that I have a 5.1 speaker system, so of course I never get to apply PLIIx to 5.1 content.


In the Oppo BDP-83, Secondary Audio should be set to OFF. I also run the 83 with Dynamic Range Compression OFF -- particularly important since the meta-data on some discs is bogus.


By the way, there is new "public beta" firmware for the 83 that just came out. See their Support page for the 83. However, I don't believe any of the changes made in that firmware would alter what you are testing.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

MACCA350,

I emailed the link to your Oppo/AIX tests post above to Nick at Anthem (Anthem Tech Support). As you develop more info on this you should definitely follow up with emails to them.


A few questions just to nail down the status of things here:


1) You are running firmware V2.10, correct?


2) Do you have ARC running for the Oppo Source? Which ARC version did you use to produce this ARC solution? If you turn OFF ARC for the Oppo Source (Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = OFF) do you still see the problem with PLIIx and 5.1 LPCM input? NOTE: The absolute level may be different since the Room EQ processing is not happening, and there may also be a minor level difference between speakers since the Room EQ boosts/cuts which have been removed affect each speaker differently, but the question is whether you still see the unexpected difference between PLIIx on and off with that input. Same question as regards LF/RF with DTS-HD MA Bitstream input? I'm trying to nail down whether this problem is independent of ARC processing being active or not (my guess being that it IS independent of ARC, particularly if Roger's explanation is correct).


NOTE: We had a report about a week or so ago from someone who found their surround speakers were down 3dB from what they expected to get. I suspect this is a related report. What was probably actually happening was that LF/C/RF were being incorrectly boosted 3dB compared to the "correct" output from the surrounds. I don't recall who made that report but if it was someone with a 7.1 speaker system who was testing using 5.1 input, and happened to have PLIIx engaged, this may be consistent with what you are reporting.

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude* /forum/post/19103385
> 
> 
> Is anyone using a dedicated video processor with their 50V or D2V? I purchased my 50V for the audio side. I know it has the Sigma VXP processor, but i am considering a DVDO Duo processor for the interactive video calibration and processing. Just wondered if anyone on here is using an external video processor.
> 
> Thanks!



You can't turn off the processing in the 50v so you will be processing twice.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> MACCA350,
> 
> Looks like you are closing in on some good stuff here. You should definitely email the results to Anthem tech support.
> 
> 
> It appears one reason you are seeing problems where I am not is that I have a 5.1 speaker system, so of course I never get to apply PLIIx to 5.1 content.



Yes, that certainly explains why some are noticing a difference and others are not.

One that does affect a 5.1 speaker setup is the first line on my last data sheet. The 3dB increase when bitstreaming DTS-HDMA 5.1.........also as I recall that strange 3dB reduction on the L/R channels while bitstreaming DTS-HDMA 7.1 is in effect when rears are turned off in the main speaker setup. That's assuming the AU and US units share this issue in common, which they may not???



> Quote:
> In the Oppo BDP-83, Secondary Audio should be set to OFF. I also run the 83 with Dynamic Range Compression OFF -- particularly important since the meta-data on some discs is bogus.



That's the first thing I did on initial startup











> Quote:
> By the way, there is new "public beta" firmware for the 83 that just came out. See their Support page for the 83. However, I don't believe any of the changes made in that firmware would alter what you are testing.



Agree, pretty much guaranteed to not have an effect on what's happening in the D2v considering it occurred on the previous player. Could also find an HD DVD with a DTS-HDMA and run it through, but now I know what triggers it and I can adjust for it I'll just pass the data on to Anthem.


One thing I may do for now is decode in the OPPO and turn off PLIIx for DTS-HDMA as there may be a possibility the increase could cause the signal to clip??

Although if, as Roger mentioned, the increase is only occurring in the volume control post DAC then it's probably not an issue and I can simply drop the master volume 6dB to compensate..........although there may still be a 3dB difference in the rears from the fronts and sub, as Roger mentioned also, so a drop in MV won't fix that. It may be better to go with the first option until it's sorted.


Cheers


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19101707
> 
> 
> The panamax 1500 is rated at 1000watts. A good rule of thumb is to use 80% of that capacity. From your description, all of the components connected far exceeds the capacity of your UPS. ARC with its sophisticated Equalization may tax your amps a little more especially will frequency boosts. Try to remove your main amp and powered speakers from the pool of equipments connected to the panamax 1500



Thanks. You are exactly right. Panamax senior technician said I should run the tv, blu-ray, DTV receiver and D2v through the UPS, then connect that through the M5300 along with the power amp, sub and powered speakers to the wall outlet. I had all components going through surge protection first with the M5300 then connected to the UPS system and that going to the wall outlet. Looks like I will also have to have the wall outlet rewired for more power.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

MACCA350,

Well you could also use the "temporary" level setting controls to counter the problem while waiting for a fix. See Section 4.6 of the Manual.


That is, when using PLIIx with 5.1 input sources and a 7.1 speaker configuration you would lower Fronts by 3dB (affects LF/C/RF) and also possibly Subwoofer by 3dB if Roger is correct. Just remember to undo that afterwards.


The fact that you are NOT seeing the problem when playing the lossy 5.1 Bitstreams means that you have to be a bit careful when to apply a fix like this.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> MACCA350,
> 
> I emailed the link to your Oppo/AIX tests post above to Nick at Anthem (Anthem Tech Support). As you develop more info on this you should definitely follow up with emails to them.
> 
> 
> A few questions just to nail down the status of things here:
> 
> 
> 1) You are running firmware V2.10, correct?



Yes



> Quote:
> 2) Do you have ARC running for the Oppo Source?



Yes



> Quote:
> Which ARC version did you use to produce this ARC solution?



Version 2.4


> Quote:
> If you turn OFF ARC for the Oppo Source (Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = OFF) do you still see the problem with PLIIx and 5.1 LPCM input? NOTE: The absolute level may be different since the Room EQ processing is not happening, and there may also be a minor level difference between speakers since the Room EQ boosts/cuts which have been removed affect each speaker differently, but the question is whether you still see the unexpected difference between PLIIx on and off with that input. Same question as regards LF/RF with DTS-HD MA Bitstream input? I'm trying to nail down whether this problem is independent of ARC processing being active or not (my guess being that it IS independent of ARC, particularly if Roger's explanation is correct).



When I first noticed the issue I tried flicking ARC off and it sounded very similar in level and switching between the DTS-HDMA track and DD yielded similar results. From that point I pretty much discounted it as a cause of the problem. I do recall flicking it on and off a few times during testing but didn't take notes as there seemed to be little difference. I have reloaded ARC prior to the last 2 data sheets of tests, no change.


I'll check tomorrow and confirm it's influence.



> Quote:
> NOTE: We had a report about a week or so ago from someone who found their surround speakers were down 3dB from what they expected to get. I suspect this is a related report. What was probably actually happening was that LF/C/RF were being incorrectly boosted 3dB compared to the "correct" output from the surrounds. I don't recall who made that report but if it was someone with a 7.1 speaker system who was testing using 5.1 input, and happened to have PLIIx engaged, this may be consistent with what you are reporting.
> 
> --Bob



Sounds very likely to be related.


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> MACCA350,
> 
> Well you could also use the "temporary" level setting controls to counter the problem while waiting for a fix. See Section 4.6 of the Manual.
> 
> 
> That is, when using PLIIx with 5.1 input sources and a 7.1 speaker configuration you would lower Fronts by 3dB (affects LF/C/RF) and also possibly Subwoofer by 3dB if Roger is correct. Just remember to undo that afterwards.
> 
> 
> The fact that you are NOT seeing the problem when playing the lossy 5.1 Bitstreams means that you have to be a bit careful when to apply a fix like this.
> 
> --Bob



So those trims are not input codec dependent but are input channel config dependent only?

I had assumed they were simply a quick access to the level cal menu but noticed they changed depending on input signal, one of the things I went through when checking for discrepancies and ensuring they were having a nil effect in the data.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19103944
> 
> 
> So those trims are not input codec dependent but are input channel config dependent only?
> 
> I had assumed they were simply a quick access to the level cal menu but noticed they changed depending on input signal, one of the things I went through when checking for discrepancies and ensuring they were having a nil effect in the data.
> 
> 
> Cheers



They are definitely independent of, and do not alter, the settings in Setup > Level Calibration. But frankly I haven't played with them enough to learn how they are memorized: Whether per Source, per audio input format, or per both Source and audio input format.


By the way, if you get yourself confused with those "temporary" settings, the hack for resetting them ALL back to 0 is to go into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video, continue via the front panel display

3) Reload Saved User Settings


The "temporary" settings are not saved so this resets all of them.

--Bob


----------



## dvcdude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19103771
> 
> 
> You can't turn off the processing in the 50v so you will be processing twice.



Thanks for the quick reply.


----------



## studlygoorite

So I now have my trusty Radio Shack SPL Meter, thanks Jayray, and have re-run ARC. Does anyone see any major flaws?

Thanks in advance, John


----------



## dlynch34

I'm having a strange issue with my Sony projector ever since I installed 2.10 on my d2v. I lose my anamorphic zoom option on my projector and have to restart my projector or my d2v to get it back. I'm not sure if it's a handshake issue with hdmi or not very strange and annoying.


----------



## MACCA350

Bob, I ran more tests and while there is a small difference in level with ARC on/off it has no effect on the findings. The variations are there with or without ARC.


Here's today's Data:









Findings:

1. LPCM 7.1 seems to be processed perfectly

2. LPCM 5.1 with the D2v in 5.1 mode or with PLIIx off seems to be processed perfectly

3. LPCM 5.1 with the D2v in 6/7.1 mode with PLIIx off seems to be processed perfectly

4. LPCM 5.1 with the D2v in 6/7.1 mode with PLIIx on seems to cause a 3dB increase in levels across all channels

(though the Surround Rears may be at the correct levels, there is no test on the disc for this)

5. Dolby TrueHD 7.1 with the D2v in 7.1 mode seems to be processed perfectly

6. Dolby TrueHD 7.1 with the D2v in 6.1 mode seems to cause a 6dB drop in the Surround Rear channel

(Dolby TrueHD tracks seem to be reduced by 4dB across the board with no DialNorm value reported by the D2v)

7. Dolby Digital 5.1 with the D2v in 5/6/7.1 mode or with PLIIx on or off seems to be processed perfectly

8. DTS-HDMA 7.1 with the D2v in 6/7.1 mode seems to cause a 3dB drop in the Front Left and Front Right channels.

There is also a strange mix going on where the Surround Left/Right channel signal is also sent to the respective

Front Left/Right channel but at a much lower SPL

9. DTS 5.1 with the D2v in 5/6/7.1 mode or with PLIIx on or off seems to cause a drop of 3dB in the Surround Left and

Surround Right channels and a drop of 2dB in the Subwoofer channel (this also seems to be occurring in the OPPO BDP-83

when it decodes internally, so it may be either both are processing incorrectly or the AIX test tones are incorrect)

10. DD and LPCM 2.0 with the D2v in 5/6/7.1 mode or with PLIIx on or off seem to be processed perfectly

(although AIX only has Total Left and Total Right channel signals for 2.0 tests)


11. AIX tests only carry signals for those specific channels, they don't encode phantom or matrix channels, so testing

PLIIx processing of those matrixed channels is not possible. For example the 5.1 tests in PLIIx will not reveal any issues

on the Surround Rear channels and 2.0 tests in PLIIx wont reveal any issues on the Centre or any Surround channels.

It's possible there are other processing issues that I have not uncovered yet. I do have some matrixed test signals so

may look at it another time.


All the data has also been passed on to the Anthem's Australian tech department.


Cheers


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19107526
> 
> 
> So I now have my trusty Radio Shack SPL Meter, thanks Jayray, and have re-run ARC. Does anyone see any major flaws?
> 
> Thanks in advance, John



Try moving your sub if you can. there is a 5-10 dB dip at the 60-100 Hz. region where the good "slam" is in LFE tracks. Don't know about the type of sub you have, but Bob always suggests any internal crossovers, and EQ it might have should be turned off. Also, in target window, try increasing the Sub cutoff from 80 Hz and see if the sub bumps up the above mentioned freq. No remeasurement needed, just a new calculation. It worked for me AFTER I moved my sub. There is no replacement for good sub placement. I feel like a poet







As for your other speakers, I don't know why there is a 10K dip for all of them.

John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19108807
> 
> 
> Try moving your sub if you can. there is a 5-10 dB dip at the 60-100 Hz. region where the good "slam" is in LFE tracks. Don't know about the type of sub you have, but Bob always suggests any internal crossovers, and EQ it might have should be turned off. Also, in target window, try increasing the Sub cutoff from 80 Hz and see if the sub bumps up the above mentioned freq. No remeasurement needed, just a new calculation. It worked for me AFTER I moved my sub. There is no replacement for good sub placement. I feel like a poet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for your other speakers, I don't know why there is a 10K dip for all of them.
> 
> John



I have 1 Paradigm Signature Servo and a Paradigm Servo 15 v2, same specs. The subs are in the same place as my last ARC run only with the SPL Meter's aid this time. My highs always had the dip at 10k even when I had my room set up completely different with covers off and tweeters pionted at ear level. Thanks for the reply and I can try tinkering with the subs as the crossovers are cranked as to not be a problem but there is one setting I changed lately and it is named "Base Contour", I have this dial all the way off as I used to have it half way up a few ARCs ago. My main speakers are Paradigm S8s with the C5 center and a few ADP 590s thrown in.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19109133
> 
> 
> I have 1 Paradigm Signature Servo and a Paradigm Servo 15 v2, same specs. The subs are in the same place as my last ARC run only with the SPL Meter's aid this time. My highs always had the dip at 10k even when I had my room set up completely different with covers off and tweeters pionted at ear level. Thanks for the reply and I can try tinkering with the subs as the crossovers are cranked as to not be a problem but there is one setting I changed lately and it is named "Base Contour", I have this dial all the way off as I used to have it half way up a few ARCs ago. My main speakers are Paradigm S8s with the C5 center and a few ADP 590s thrown in.



I had a servo 15 v2 and got exactly the same curve as I now have with my Sub 25. The servo had the bass contour off and I got great curves with flat from 100 Hz to 20 and who knows how much below







I didn't need the Contour once the position changed. With two identical subs of that quality I can only surmise the position could be better or cutoff is too low. Your sub curve looks just like mine before I moved it. My cutoff for the servo was around 120. My speakers are Studio 100s, CC690 center, and PSB S5 back and side. Nick spotted this deficiency in my system and it now sounds fantastic.

John


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude* /forum/post/19103385
> 
> 
> Is anyone using a dedicated video processor with their 50V or D2V? I purchased my 50V for the audio side. I know it has the Sigma VXP processor, but i am considering a DVDO Duo processor for the interactive video calibration and processing. Just wondered if anyone on here is using an external video processor.
> 
> Thanks!



I just brought in a Lumagen Radiance XE processor as I have become weary of the D2v's HDMI screw-ups.


The Radiance has 2 HDMI outs. One I use for the projector and the other to feed the D2v for audio processing only.


First of all, the video image is the best I have ever experienced.


Second, what a pleasure to switch from an HDMI to analog video source and actually see it without having to reboot the D2v to get analog video back. This is especially important when switching to the security cameras to check out who's at the door or what is going on outside. I can now do this as a PIP with the XE.


It also processes composite video to HDMI that the D2v does not. You can cheat it by connecting the composite to the Y channel of a component input on the D2v, but then again you get a green image, if you get one at all!


The video processing options of the XE are hands down more versatile then the D2v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Composite to S-video inline converters are a better solution for scaling/processingComposite on the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19109600
> 
> 
> Composite to S-video inline converters are a better solution for scaling/processingComposite on the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob for pointing that out, but the composite issue was only the icing on the cake.


----------



## stanger89

On a tangent, is there an HBR-audio-decoding Anthem solution without a video processor? It looks like the 40 is discontinued, and it didn't do HBR decoding anyway?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

MACCA350,

Good stuff. I emailed a link of that post to Nick as well.


It looks like Roger's PLIIx guess is not quite right as the LS/RS channels are also at 78dB. Also only the DTS line would seem to support the earlier report we got of Surrounds being down 3dB.


In any event, the +3dB impact of PLIIx on 5.1 LPCM input is patent. Of course folks (like me) with a 5.1 speaker setup can never get this.


The DTS 5.1 lines are particularly interesting as it appears the Oppo and the D2v *AGREE* that the surrounds should be 3dB down and the sub 2dB down. Very strange. (In the case where the Oppo is decoding to LPCM and then the D2v applies PLIIx to that, the channels then get raised 3dB due to the PLIIx/LPCM impact, but the original down 3 and down 2 from the decoding remains.) Lossy DTS decoding should be commodity technology by now so I wonder if this down 3 and down 2 are actually part of the DTS spec somehow.


The Oppo and the D2v also *AGREE* on decoding TrueHD 7.1 4dB down. In the past, Nick has told me that the the D2v does indeed apply Dial Norm to TrueHD tracks (when present), but it does NOT indicate it is doing that in the status displays. Nevertheless, the typical 4dB Dial Norm would certainly seem a likely suspect.


In the case of DTS-HD MA 7.1 the Oppo and the D2v *DISAGREE* on the decode, with the D2v lowering LF/RF by 3dB. That would appear to be a bug in the D2v. Perhaps there is a bug when only one or the other of LF/RF have content?


The DTS and DTS-HD MA lines are the main ones that cause a user problem since the apparent error can not be corrected simply by adjusting Main Volume. The PLIIx impact and the TrueHD 4dB down can be corrected by adjusting Main Volume (except for TrueHD Bitstream folks with 6.1 speaker setups).


Just in case you get into this further, be aware that the Oppo has a "DTS Essentials" decoder, meaning it won't decode the rear channel info from a DTS ES track. The D2v will (when fed the Bitstream).


The Oppo also decodes DTS-HD MA 5.1 192KHz as 96KHz due to a processing power limitation. The D2v will decode the full 192KHz. (This limitation only applies to 5.1, as DTS-HD MA on Blu-Ray only ever supports up to 96KHz for 7.1 TrueHD supports 192KHz at either 5/1 or 7.1 and is decoded that way in both the Oppo and the D2v.)


On the other hand, the Oppo will decode the extra dynamic range in HDCD discs (set LPCM output and HDCD decoding on) and the D2v will not. Expect a 6dB volume drop when this is happening (to make room for the higher dynamics). And of course you need to use PCM output from the Oppo to the D2v when playing SACD discs as the D2v does not decode DSD streams.


The Rear 6.1 problem in the TrueHD line *MAY* be something TrueHD mandates when decoding into 6.1 when only one rear speaker has content at a time. I'm not sure of that. With the Oppo doing the decode it is of course decoding to 7.1 and then the D2v just sees 7.1 LPCM. In any event, that one also has to be looked at.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/19109760
> 
> 
> On a tangent, is there an HBR-audio-decoding Anthem solution without a video processor? It looks like the 40 is discontinued, and it didn't do HBR decoding anyway?



Not as a prepro. Some of Anthem's new Receivers have limited video processing, perhaps even just switching. I haven't been following them that closely.

--Bob


----------



## JimP

Is Anthem about to upgrade the D2V and if so, what are they upgrading, how much will it cost (approx) and will a new model come out incorporating these features or will it only appear as an upgrade board to the D2V?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/19109926
> 
> 
> Is Anthem about to upgrade the D2V and if so, what are they upgrading, how much will it cost (approx) and will a new model come out incorporating these features or will it only appear as an upgrade board to the D2V?



There is no indication that I am aware of, that the D2v is getting an upgrade. They are very busy with the new receivers.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Based on Anthem's history with this stuff, my guess is that the *EARLIEST* there might be a prepro replacement for the D2v would be with an announcement in January for first shipment sometime summer of next year. And it wouldn't surprise me a bit if the announcement happened 6 months later than that. I think they odds are pretty good there will be a new prepro announcement before the END of next year (not this year).

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19109278
> 
> 
> I had a servo 15 v2 and got exactly the same curve as I now have with my Sub 25. The servo had the bass contour off and I got great curves with flat from 100 Hz to 20 and who knows how much below
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't need the Contour once the position changed. With two identical subs of that quality I can only surmise the position could be better or cutoff is too low. Your sub curve looks just like mine before I moved it. My cutoff for the servo was around 120. My speakers are Studio 100s, CC690 center, and PSB S5 back and side. Nick spotted this deficiency in my system and it now sounds fantastic.
> 
> John



My room is 25'X25' and one sub is in the far right corner pointing towards the back wall and the other is at the back left corner pointing towards the front wall and my seat is pretty much the middle of the back wall. I guess I could pull them out from the front and back walls a bit and see how that measures while tweaking the cutoff. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

MACCA350,

I've just confirmed the strangeness with the AIX traditional, lossy DTS 5.1 Channel ID track (as compared to the LPCM 5.1 track) using my SPL meter. Surrounds down 3dB and sub down 2dB. Mind you, the SPL meter is not really all that great for trying to do a test like this.


However, I've now *ALSO* confirmed that the PS3 decodes this track to LPCM precisely the same way.


So it looks like there is either an error in that DTS Channel ID track on the AIX calibration disc, or there is some strangeness in the DTS spec that mandates this result -- perhaps due to only one channel being active at a time.


I then tried the 5.1 DTS track from my Avia Pro Audio Tests SD-DVD and got the same result from decoding in the Oppo and decoding in the D2v -- surrounds down 3dB, sub down 2dB. This suggests that this is just the nature of DTS decoding.


(Or perhaps there's a bug in the PS3 and every subsequent Blu-Ray player replicated that bug!







)


---------------------------------------


That still leaves the PLIIx/LPCM 5.1 3dB boost, and the 3dB drop in LF/RF when DTS-HD MA 7.1 is decoded in the D2v. Both of those feel like D2v bugs to me.


The 4dB drop in TrueHD decoding may simply be incorrect Dial Norm info on the AIX track. The 6dB drop in Rear 6.1 for TrueHD also needs explanation, but I suspect that one's going to turn out to be "right" for a case like this were only one rear channel is active at a time. That is, you only get half the volume in Center Rear if only one Rear channel happens to have content.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19109779
> 
> 
> Not as a prepro. Some of Anthem's new Receivers have limited video processing, perhaps even just switching. I haven't been following them that closely.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, that's kind of what I was thinking (no Video-less SSPs anymore), but thought I'd ask.


----------



## Chauncey

Thanks for everyone's help I received thus far.


I've tried re-installing 1.33 several times. I'm using a computer with a serial connector. I've used this computer before to upgrade my D2. I flash erased the unit several times as well. I get the "Cannot connect to OKI Loader" error. Is there anything else I can try? Or do I have to send it back to the factory for reprogramming?


Thanks!


Chauncey


----------



## Bob Pariseau

MACCA350,

I just grabbed a random Blu-Ray with a 5.1 TrueHD track and found that sending that as Bitstream from the Oppo to the D2v caused the D2v to display Dial Norm of +1dB.


So the V2.10 firmware is in fact displaying Dial Norm for TrueHD when it finds it in the incoming Bitstream -- at least for this TrueHD track. Perhaps the AIX track was supposed to have 4dB Dial Norm but the meta-data is wrong on the disc. Thus the observed 71dB output.


-----------------------------------------


I then switched back to the AIX disc and confirmed what you found: Whether decoded in the Oppo or the D2v, the TrueHD 7.1 Channel ID test is 4dB down from the LPCM 5.1 test. In the case of the Oppo decoding, this is not altered by changing Dynamic Range Compression. Auto, On, and Off all produce the same result.


I then moved the AIX disc to the PS3. Note that my PS3 is one of the older models that can only decode TrueHD to LPCM -- Bitstream output unavailable.


And once again the PS3 matched: The TrueHD 7.1 track was 4dB down from the LPCM 5.1 track.


So it does appear that the difference here is due to an error in the AIX track -- probably they planned to mark it for +4dB Dial Norm but failed to do so.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chauncey* /forum/post/19110903
> 
> 
> Thanks for everyone's help I received thus far.
> 
> 
> I've tried re-installing 1.33 several times. I'm using a computer with a serial connector. I've used this computer before to upgrade my D2. I flash erased the unit several times as well. I get the "Cannot connect to OKI Loader" error. Is there anything else I can try? Or do I have to send it back to the factory for reprogramming?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Chauncey



Give Anthem tech support a call.


If you tried to install "test" firmware V1.47f, and your original D2 does not have the hardware to run that, you may need to re-install an older version of the firmware first to recover and then install V1.33 on top of that.


Failing that, there is a hardware procedure which is a more forceful way of doing what Flash Erase does. Doing that involves opening the lid and actually touching the circuit boards, so it is not to be done lightly. Anthem Tech Support can figure out whether that's worth trying or whether you really do need to get the unit back to them to get reset in the factory. Or to get the circuit board replaced if that's what's needed.

--Bob


----------



## LesPaul

Bob,


Using XP how do I post my ARC curves?


Thanks for your help.


----------



## ironcorn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/19109926
> 
> 
> Is Anthem about to upgrade the D2V and if so, what are they upgrading, how much will it cost (approx) and will a new model come out incorporating these features or will it only appear as an upgrade board to the D2V?



My Anthem dealer told me last week that there would be a field installed upgrade for the D2v next summer (2011) that would add 3D. I'm not going to hold my breath.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/19111297
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Using XP how do I post my ARC curves?
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help.



Here's a post that explains one way to do it:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post17597761 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" ARC V2.4.16 Now on Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem Tech Support has this evening placed "test" ARC V2.4.16 on their password protected download page. This may very well be the final Beta version before the "official" release (which must come soon as it is tied to the first shipments of the new, MRX Receiver products).


Release Notes covering changes since the prior "official" version (ARC V2.4) now read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.4.16 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Adjusted graph levels by 6 dB.
> 
> 
> 2. For MRX, added checks to increase chances of proper measurement (MRX v40.04 or later must be used).
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.15 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed too-high sweep levels introduced in previous beta.
> 
> 
> Note: MRX must also be updated.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.14 beta
> 
> 
> 1. (MRX only) Fix for high frequency noise introduced in v2.4.13.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.13 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for upper-frequency measurement. (Note: Recalibration data is now embedded).
> 
> 
> 2. (MRX only) Fix for subwoofer level calibration.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.12 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Added advanced controls in Targets panel for the sub's low end rolloff.
> 
> 
> 2. Room Gain limited to 4 dB maximum (previously 6 dB).
> 
> 
> 3. Added MRX series AV receiver compatibility.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.11 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Added speaker positioning helper under Advanced mode / Tools / Quick Measure. This sweeps the selected speaker continuously to instantly show uncorrected frequency response graph. This can be most useful for finding a location for the subwoofer, since bass resonances vary greatly according to speaker positioning. Approximately ten sweeps are needed before graph is shown - after that update is live.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Quick Measure resets crossover and level calibration setup menus. If you won't be following Quick Measure with a full ARC procedure, and your existing crossover and level settings in the setup menu will be needed afterward, save or record them first.
> 
> 
> 2. Added compatibility for MRX 300/500/700 receivers. If loading a file that was creating using AVM, Statement D, or MRX 900, ARC will fail the upload then ask if you would like to convert the file to MRX 300/500/700 format to allow loading. Give it a different file name when prompted if you would like to keep the original file.
> 
> 
> 3. Added Flat correction range option when speakers are set to full range in Targets. To access Flat setting, select Full Range X-Over, then set frequency lower than 25 Hz or type "f" in the frequency window. (Also remember that typing "n" in frequency window disables the speaker in that configuration, as long as it is not Fronts, without discarding the measurement in case you would like to use it again it later).
> 
> 
> 4. Refined recalibration data - measurement graph may appear different by up to 1 dB in small areas when opening older file with this version. This will also cause corrected curve to have some differences.



It looks like they are closing in on getting the charts to match expectations based on the Level Calibration test tones.


The contents of the included Manuals and Utilities folders are unchanged from the prior "test" firmware.


As always, keep in mind that "test" software is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I opened up two files with this beta version 2.4.16 and nothing changed as far as graph levels are concerned. Do we have to do new measurements?

John


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19111463
> 
> 
> Here's a post that explains one way to do it:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...post17597761
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob for the quick help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I opened up two files with this beta version 2.4.16 and nothing changed as far as graph levels are concerned. Do we have to do new measurements?
> 
> John



I think so. I opened up V2.4.13 Measurements and the charts still showed 92dB. I think the fix takes effect during the Measurement just as with V2.4.15.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19111623
> 
> 
> I think so. I opened up V2.4.13 Measurements and the charts still showed 92dB. I think the fix takes effect during the Measurement just as with V2.4.15.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

if all it does is correct the charts I may wait for the final version. My wife's starting to cringe when the test tone starts









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> if all it does is correct the charts I may wait for the final version. My wife's starting to cringe when the test tone starts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



You may have to resort to what Dr. Pavlov did. Give her a treat each time she hears the tones?









--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19111821
> 
> 
> You may have to resort to what Dr. Pavlov did. Give her a treat each time she hears the tones?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Any suggestions









John


----------



## ninja12

I just did a measurement with ARC v2.4.16. The only difference between this measurement and the measurement with ARC v2.4.13 was that the basic volume level was 85db instead of 95db. Other than that, everything else looked the same.


----------



## Texas steve

My dogs run when I bring out the microphone!!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19111778
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> if all it does is correct the charts I may wait for the final version. My wife's starting to cringe when the test tone starts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19113113
> 
> 
> My dogs run when I bring out the microphone!!!



Ha, my dog runs for the master bath when I get the usb cable from behind the D2v.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/19113132
> 
> 
> Ha, my dog runs for the master bath when I get the usb cable from behind the D2v.



Clearly I have a lot of work to do









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19112561
> 
> 
> I just did a measurement with ARC v2.4.16. The only difference between this measurement and the measurement with ARC v2.4.13 was that the basic volume level was 85db instead of 95db. Other than that, everything else looked the same.



My charts are now at 81 dB, previously at 90 or so. I'll give it a try later to see if I get to the Holy grail of 75 dB.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

MACCA350,


By the way, I *AM* using the new Beta firmware in the Oppo BDP-83, so the DTS and TrueHD results I reported above show that this new firmware doesn't alter what you reported.


I've not heard back from Nick yet, but that's no surprise since they are in the last stages of getting the new Receiver products out the door.


The more I think about it, the more I think we've maybe got just 2 bugs here in the D2v: The +3dB boost across the board when LPCM 5.1 is processed to 7.1 speakers by PLIIx, and the 3dB drop in LF/RF when the D2v decodes a DTS-HD MA 7.1 track. I haven't confirmed that latter yet, but have no reason to doubt it.


The workaround for the first is just to lower Main Volume. The workaround for the second is trickier. You need to raise LF/RF 3dB without raising C. The way the "temporary" adjustments are implemented on the D2v, I believe that means you need to raise "Fronts" 3dB and also lower "Center" 3dB.


The 3dB surrounds and 2dB sub down when decoding lossy DTS 5.1 appears to be "correct". I've no idea why. I can't recall every hearing anything like this regarding DTS but the fact that I get this result both with the AIX disc and the Avia Pro SD-DVD, and on the PS3 as well as the Oppo and the D2v, leaves me with no alternative.


The 4dB down when decoding the TrueHD 7.1 track looks like a coding error on the AIX disc -- failure to include the meta-data for +4dB Dial Norm. This too could easily be worked around by raising Main Volume, but of course if it is just an error in this track there's no need.


And the 6dB additional down for Center Rear (6.1) when decoding the TrueHD 7.1 track to 6.1 speakers may be something mandated by Dolby when rear content in the 7.1 input stream is only present on just one side. That *DEFINITELY* needs to be checked/confirmed, but I could believe they might do just that to keep from overemphasizing "the wrong side" of the rear audio. The Oppo decode is to 7.1 for output to the D2v of course, so that could explain why this drop doesn't show up when the Oppo is doing the decoding and the D2v is just doing the down-mix to 6.1.

--Bob


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/19089189
> 
> 
> I am running version 2.10 and ARC .15 and yesterday I did a little experimenting. Using the ARC tools test mode I was monitoring my LF speaker which is a B&W. I am still getting a 12KHz dip as I do from all my B&W speaker. Anthem even replace my microhpone. Yesterday I placed the mic 3 feet in front of my speeaker and even tilted it directly at the tweeter and I still see a dip at 12 KHz. I have set my ARC cut off to 10K Hz and it still stounds too shrill to me. I did not have time to try recalculating it again at 5K Hz.
> 
> 
> To me it the sound is worse that when I was running the last released versions of the ARC and D2v software. Those versions still showed the 12K Hz dip but the sounds was not as shrill or bright as it is now.



Bob,


I have attached my ARC curves from version 2.4 and from the beta version .15. Both of these measurement were made exactly the same with the same speakers with the exception of the mic. Anthem replaced my mic as they thought there was a problem with the dip in the frequency response at 12Khz. All I can say that is that the beta version sounds worse as I have stated above in the quote. Both of the cures had a cut off of 10KHz. I recalculated the .15 beta data for 5Khz and it has helped but the sound is still not as good as it was with version 2.4. The measured response curves look much flatter with 2.4. The .15 beta curves show a decrease in the response over 5KHz. Do you think there is a problem with this mic or a software issue? Your help is much appreciated.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19113166
> 
> 
> My charts are now at 81 dB, previously at 90 or so. I'll give it a try later to see if I get to the Holy grail of 75 dB.
> 
> John



Is it still 75db or is it now 85db? According to the updates, the 6db problem was supposed to be fixed with this beta version. So, they may have changed the test tone to be -20dbfs instead of -30dbfs. If -20dbfs is the new test tone level, then the new Holy Grail is 85db instead of 75db.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19113912
> 
> 
> Is it still 75db or is it now 85db? According to the updates, the 6db problem was supposed to be fixed with this beta version. So, they may have changed the test tone to be -20dbfs instead of -30dbfs. If -20dbfs is the new test tone level, then the new Holy Grail is 85db instead of 75db.



My new measurement with 2.4.16 is now at approx. 85 db. I certainly hope this is the new HG.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19114000
> 
> 
> My new measurement with 2.4.16 is now at approx. 85 db. I certainly hope this is the new HG.
> 
> John



I do too. Now, it's time for the most important part, and that is LISTENING. I will listen to this for a while to see how it sounds.


----------



## silentbobandjay

I just installed my AVM-50 and have a few questions:


How do I obtain the latest (beta) software versions? I emailed tech support last night, but have not received a response. I'd like to perform my initial ARC setup this weekend if possible...


I was going to set up my display with the Spears & Munsil BD and am stuck at step one - setting brightness with the Low Pluge pattern. No matter how I adjust my display (JVC RS35) I can't see any of the rectangles on the screen. My source is a PS3 set to Y'CbCr color space. Has anyone encountered this issue? If it matters, I am using a dedicated theater room with absolute light control.


I've been lurking on this forum for quite some time and really appreciate the level of engagement and support that exists here. Thanks in advance for your help!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19114045
> 
> 
> I do too. Now, it's time for the most important part, and that is LISTENING. I will listen to this for a while to see how it sounds.



I've tested several familiar discs and I can't tell any diff in terms of volume levels or quality of sound. So it seems it may just have been done to get the charts in order not change anything in the listening area.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19114117
> 
> 
> I've tested several familiar discs and I can't tell any diff in terms of volume levels or quality of sound. So it seems it may just have been done to get the charts in order not change anything in the listening area.
> 
> John



That would be inline with the documentation for v2.4.16.


----------



## cosmos5861

I have an Anthem AVM 50. Is the current firmware 1.33? My problem is that I have a new Mac Mini Hdmi connected to Anthem AVM 50. Ever time I switch input and go back to Mac Mini i get a blue screen. Any ideas?




Thank you


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/19114160
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem AVM 50. Is the current firmware 1.33? My problem is that I have a new Mac Mini Hdmi connected to Anthem AVM 50. Ever time I switch input and go back to Mac Mini i get a blue screen. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you



You can emai or call Anthem Tech for the password to the beta software page. I think it is 1.47f and does solve some of the hdmi issues with 1.33.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19114132
> 
> 
> That would be in line with the documentation for v2.4.16.



Well with more testing nothing sounds diff but then it already sounded fantastic so I can't say I'm disappointed









John


----------



## cosmos5861




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19114221
> 
> 
> You can emai or call Anthem Tech for the password to the beta software page. I think it is 1.47f and does solve some of the hdmi issues with 1.33.
> 
> John



Does anyone have a copy of 1.47f. Anthem is closed today


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/19114238
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a copy of 1.47f. Anthem is closed today



You can only download it from their tech site. We are encouraged not to give this out, but rather to let Anthem give it out with your approval so if something goes wrong you don't blame them. I know this is frustrating and seems to always happen on the weekend but this is how it works.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/19113776
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I have attached my ARC curves from version 2.4 and from the beta version .15. Both of these measurement were made exactly the same with the same speakers with the exception of the mic. Anthem replaced my mic as they thought there was a problem with the dip in the frequency response at 12Khz. All I can say that is that the beta version sounds worse as I have stated above in the quote. Both of the cures had a cut off of 10KHz. I recalculated the .15 beta data for 5Khz and it has helped but the sound is still not as good as it was with version 2.4. The measured response curves look much flatter with 2.4. The .15 beta curves show a decrease in the response over 5KHz. Do you think there is a problem with this mic or a software issue? Your help is much appreciated.



LesPaul ...this is David, definately NOT Bob










I'd start debugging my system from the beginning:


1. Remove or nullify the ARC settings in the Anthem unit. Listen to the system. Does it sound shrill or not? If so then look somewhere else for the problem. Maybe a blown tweeter. If sounds fine, then...


2. Re-enable ARC and re-calculate for a cutoff frequency of 500Hz and listen to the result. Does it sound shrill at this frequency? If so, something is wrong with your ARC setup and/or hardware. It should sound OK.


Increase the cut frequency in increments of 1 Khz up to the point where the shrillness starts. I presume you have a test music CD that you are well familiar with to determine if it sounds right or not.


Let us know what you find out. The shrillness you're hearing shouldn't be here.


BTW ... you may have answered this already but is the shrillness there with the official version of ARC? If not, then we have a serious problem with this upcoming version of ARC.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19113648
> 
> 
> The 4dB down when decoding the TrueHD 7.1 track looks like a coding error on the AIX disc -- failure to include the meta-data for +4dB Dial Norm.



I can confirm that dialnorm is reducing 4 dB on this disc.



> Quote:
> And the 6dB additional down for Center Rear (6.1) when decoding the TrueHD 7.1 track to 6.1 speakers may be something mandated by Dolby when rear content in the 7.1 input stream is only present on just one side. That *DEFINITELY* needs to be checked/confirmed, but I could believe they might do just that to keep from overemphasizing "the wrong side" of the rear audio.



It is not a Dolby thing. They do not specify downmixing in downstream processing. By way of contrast, I checked all three 7.1 ID tracks on the AIX disc in the SSP-800, and their 6.1 downnmixer happens to scale the Lb/Rb by -3 dB when it sums them together. All three codecs are handled the same. So it appears to be a choice of the D2 design. Why it's handled any different than the PCM mode, I cannot guess.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19114806
> 
> 
> LesPaul ...this is David, definately NOT Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd start debugging my system from the beginning:
> 
> 
> 1. Remove or nullify the ARC settings in the Anthem unit. Listen to the system. Does it sound shrill or not? If so then look somewhere else for the problem. Maybe a blown tweeter. If sounds fine, then...
> 
> 
> 2. Re-enable ARC and re-calculate for a cutoff frequency of 500Hz and listen to the result. Does it sound shrill at this frequency? If so, something is wrong with your ARC setup and/or hardware. It should sound OK.
> 
> 
> Increase the cut frequency in increments of 1 Khz up to the point where the shrillness starts. I presume you have a test music CD that you are well familiar with to determine if it sounds right or not.
> 
> 
> Let us know what you find out. The shrillness you're hearing shouldn't be here.
> 
> 
> BTW ... you may have answered this already but is the shrillness there with the official version of ARC? If not, then we have a serious problem with this upcoming version of ARC.



Is anyone else experiencing this shrillness. I am using 2.4.16 and there is no hint of this and with all of the previous betas I can't say this ever happened. I can't recall anyone else having this either.

John


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> MACCA350,
> 
> 
> By the way, I *AM* using the new Beta firmware in the Oppo BDP-83, so the DTS and TrueHD results I reported above show that this new firmware doesn't alter what you reported.
> 
> 
> I've not heard back from Nick yet, but that's no surprise since they are in the last stages of getting the new Receiver products out the door.
> 
> 
> The more I think about it, the more I think we've maybe got just 2 bugs here in the D2v: The +3dB boost across the board when LPCM 5.1 is processed to 7.1 speakers by PLIIx, and the 3dB drop in LF/RF when the D2v decodes a DTS-HD MA 7.1 track. I haven't confirmed that latter yet, but have no reason to doubt it.



Plus the DTS-HDMA 5.1 bug which is increasing levels by an additional 3dB which you can see from the the War of the World tests. AIX has no DTS-HDMA 5.1 tests so I can't confirm whether it's across the board or just a couple of channels........the scene I used was the opening narration which is mostly center channel driven so it seems at least the center channel is affected, which means it is different to the DTS-HDMA 7.1. I'll run some additional tests.




> Quote:
> The workaround for the first is just to lower Main Volume. The workaround for the second is trickier. You need to raise LF/RF 3dB without raising C. The way the "temporary" adjustments are implemented on the D2v, I believe that means you need to raise "Fronts" 3dB and also lower "Center" 3dB.



So 'Fronts' means LCR, not just LR? Maybe they should have changed that to L/R to be more intuitive.



> Quote:
> The 3dB surrounds and 2dB sub down when decoding lossy DTS 5.1 appears to be "correct". I've no idea why. I can't recall every hearing anything like this regarding DTS but the fact that I get this result both with the AIX disc and the Avia Pro SD-DVD, and on the PS3 as well as the Oppo and the D2v, leaves me with no alternative.



Yes quit strange, I was thinking it may be a common trait of the new DTS decoding algorithms to deal with DTS's HD formats and their channel mapping?? A bug that simply went throughout to the keeper........I might hook up my old Denon DVD-2200 player to see if this trait has always been the case.



> Quote:
> The 4dB down when decoding the TrueHD 7.1 track looks like a coding error on the AIX disc -- failure to include the meta-data for +4dB Dial Norm. This too could easily be worked around by raising Main Volume, but of course if it is just an error in this track there's no need.



I'm starting to think that the D2v simply doesn't add the THX +4dB to TrueHD tracks as it does with legacy DD.


And the 6dB additional down for Center Rear (6.1) when decoding the TrueHD 7.1 track to 6.1 speakers may be something mandated by Dolby when rear content in the 7.1 input stream is only present on just one side. That *DEFINITELY* needs to be checked/confirmed, but I could believe they might do just that to keep from overemphasizing "the wrong side" of the rear audio. The Oppo decode is to 7.1 for output to the D2v of course, so that could explain why this drop doesn't show up when the Oppo is doing the decoding and the D2v is just doing the down-mix to 6.1.

--Bob[/quote]

Might check to see if I can set the OPPO to output 6.1 PCM instead of 7.1 PCM.


Cheers


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19115229
> 
> 
> Is anyone else experiencing this shrillness. I am using 2.4.16 and there is no hint of this and with all of the previous betas I can't say this ever happened. I can't recall anyone else having this either.
> 
> John



Nope, no shrillness here. It's all




























!!!!!! I'm also running 2.4.16.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19115470
> 
> 
> Nope, no shrillness here. It's all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!!!!! I'm also running 2.4.16.



I find it hard to believe ARC is at fault since we'd see it a lot more.

John


----------



## dmusoke

I notice that when I check my speaker levels after ARC via my RS meter, I still find that my speaker levels still differ from each other by up to 4 dB, despite the 75dB original calibration i performed before I performed ARC( I zero'd out all other speaker levels as well).


Should I correct / fine-tune the speaker trims(5.1 system) until all speakers match within 1 dB or less using my RS meter? The center speaker is mostly the naughty one, being 3-4dB higher than the lowest measuring speakers in the rear.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19115887
> 
> 
> I notice that when I check my speaker levels after ARC via my RS meter, I still find that my speaker levels still differ from each other by up to 4 dB, despite the 75dB original calibration i performed before I performed ARC( I zero'd out all other speaker levels as well).
> 
> 
> Should I correct / fine-tune the speaker trims(5.1 system) until all speakers match within 1 dB or less using my RS meter? The center speaker is mostly the naughty one, being 3-4dB higher than the lowest measuring speakers in the rear.



ARC adjusts those as part of it's equalization process so it is normal to have this discrepancy. Don't change the trim levels, trust ARC's settings.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19115887
> 
> 
> I notice that when I check my speaker levels after ARC via my RS meter, I still find that my speaker levels still differ from each other by up to 4 dB, despite the 75dB original calibration i performed before I performed ARC( I zero'd out all other speaker levels as well).
> 
> 
> Should I correct / fine-tune the speaker trims(5.1 system) until all speakers match within 1 dB or less using my RS meter? The center speaker is mostly the naughty one, being 3-4dB higher than the lowest measuring speakers in the rear.



If you are using the Setup > Level Calibration tones to determine this the answer is definitely no. First, ARC uses a wider frequency range to select the best volume trim, and second the Level Calibration tones don't include the boosts or cuts implemented in the Room Correction parameters so they don't represent the true level of the speakers when ARC is active.


Trust the levels ARC has Uploaded. Make sure you Save User and Installer Settings after an ARC Upload so that you don't accidentally undo the Upload later by restoring from those.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

MACCA350,


If you get a chance, please try re-running that War of the Worlds BD test with your D2v Speaker Configuration set to 5.1. We know that will make the PLIIx/LPCM 5.1 3dB boost go away (since PLIIx won't be available -- 5.1 input to 5.1 speakers), the question is whether it also fixes the DTS-HD MA Bitstream decoding boost you are reporting from that disc.


The DTS-HD MA decoder, by design, does things differently according to how many speakers it thinks are in use and also whether the "alternate speaker presentation" nonsense is encoded in the track. If changing the D2v from 7.1 to 5.1 speakers alters how the Bitstream level is decoded in the D2v, that will point right to the problem. It's even barely possible that the embedded, "core" lossy DTS compatibility track (also 5.1) is what's getting decoded -- by mistake of course -- and it just happens to have the different level. The D2v's status displays will not indicate whether or not the "core" DTS is being decoded.


When you get this War of the Worlds BD info to Anthem, it will be helpful if you can also give them the bar code and/or ISBN number off the disc case as it is possible the disc you are using is different from one they might readily find in Canada.


------------------------------------


By the way, changing the "Down Mix" setting in the Oppo BDP-83 does not affect its HDMI audio output. It only alters the multi-channel analog output. The HDMI output from the 83 is set automatically by what the AVR says it can accept as input -- 7.1 in the case of the D2v -- against whatever content is actually present in the track.


And you may have missed it, but Roger has confirmed that the TrueHD 7.1 track on AIX is down 4dB due to the way AIX set Dial Norm for that track. I.e., the Oppo and the D2v are "doing the right thing" with that track.


I have seen the V2.10 firmware show Dial Norm for TrueHD Bitstreams so I think it likely the D2v is doing what the meta-data is telling it to do.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike

I finally got around to installing Software version 2.10 (the one with Dolby Volume) on my D2v and came across one oddity:


I have my phono hooked up to the "aux" input - actually the phono is hooked to a phono amp and it is hooked to the D2v. When I went into the source setup to shut off dolby volume for all but the TV there was "noise" coming out the speakers when dolby volume was "on" or "Cinema" for the aux input, but it was dead quiet when dolby volume was off. I did not experience this for any other input. My volume was at about -35 dB or my normal TV listening level while I was making these changes. I would explain the noise as a "deep hiss", but not quite a "rumble".


Any thoughts?


Thank you,


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19114954
> 
> 
> I can confirm that dialnorm is reducing 4 dB on this disc.
> 
> 
> It is not a Dolby thing. They do not specify downmixing in downstream processing. By way of contrast, I checked all three 7.1 ID tracks on the AIX disc in the SSP-800, and their 6.1 downnmixer happens to scale the Lb/Rb by -3 dB when it sums them together. All three codecs are handled the same. So it appears to be a choice of the D2 design. Why it's handled any different than the PCM mode, I cannot guess.



The D2v is also handling Rear Center (6.1) differently when decoding DTS-HD MA. OK if the TrueHD spec isn't calling for this 6dB down then that's a 3rd bug. One thing I can think of is that TrueHD LR/RR are getting decoded with opposite phase, so they largely cancel when mixed down to CR. A TrueHD 7.1 Speaker Phase test would show that as it would indicate LR and RR are mismatched in wiring polarity (whereas an LPCM 7.1 test would show them as wired correctly).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/19116637
> 
> 
> I finally got around to installing Software version 2.10 (the one with Dolby Volume) on my D2v and came across one oddity:
> 
> 
> I have my phono hooked up to the "aux" input - actually the phono is hooked to a phono amp and it is hooked to the D2v. When I went into the source setup to shut off dolby volume for all but the TV there was "noise" coming out the speakers when dolby volume was "on" or "Cinema" for the aux input, but it was dead quiet when dolby volume was off. I did not experience this for any other input. My volume was at about -35 dB or my normal TV listening level while I was making these changes. I would explain the noise as a "deep hiss", but not quite a "rumble".
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> Mike



I presume you are using ANALOG-DSP on that input correct?


OK try this: Set Dolby Volume ON for that input -- you are now hearing the deep hiss. Back out of Setup -- still hearing the hiss, correct?


Now without changing anything else, power the D2v Off and then ON using the Off/On buttons in the top center of the D2v remote. Don't use a source selection button to turn the D2v on and don't use any programmable remote you might happen to have. Power cycled this way the D2v should come back up with that same source selected and with Dolby Volume still On. Adjust Volume back to the level you were using when you powered off.


Do you still have the hiss? What I'm looking for here is if Dolby Volume is perhaps not getting initialized properly when you first turn it on, but does get set properly if it is already selected when the D2v powers up. If the hiss goes away then that's a firmware problem in how DV starts up after power up. Anthem will need the details.


If you still have the hiss, remove wall power from your phono amp and from the turntable -- physically pull their power plugs. Does the hiss go away? If so then the root cause of the hiss is that you have a ground loop (or RF interference) -- pretty common with phono/phono-amp setups. The hiss may be the result of DV trying to treat that 60Hz input as "real" and altering the frequency response accordingly. I've not seen any reports of DV acting like that so far, but I can't tell if anyone with a ground loop problem has tried DV.


Tackling the ground loop or RF interference can be a bit of a chore. Try shutting down any light dimmers you have in the room, check the connection of the ground wire between the phono, the phono amp and the D2v and experiment with different power sockets for the phono and phono amp.


You should probably also try a different analog input on the D2v in the unlikely chance that the problem is actually with your AUX input.


If none of the above leads to a fix, Anthem tech support may very well have some additional suggestions.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/19114160
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem AVM 50. Is the current firmware 1.33? My problem is that I have a new Mac Mini Hdmi connected to Anthem AVM 50. Ever time I switch input and go back to Mac Mini i get a blue screen. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you



Actually I'm surprised your Mac Mini is working at all with V1.33. Apple uses an unusual (but legal) method of doing the HDMI handshake and Anthem found they couldn't support that without also breaking the more common handshake used by older cable TV boxes so they did not support the Apple method in V1.33.


Anthem has since figured out how to support both methods. There is "test" firmware -- V1.47f -- which includes that fix. But you will need to get that from Anthem tech support as they will need to verify your AVM 50 hardware configuration will work with it.


Look through the top vents of your AVM 50 with a flashlight. If your video board (the big board at the top, just under the vents) is red, OR if you can see your power supply does *NOT* have the big, toroidal (donut-shaped) transformer then your AVM 50 is good to go for V1.47f.


If your video board is gray or green *AND* your power supply has the donut, then your AVM 50 MIGHT still be OK for V1.47f, but there is no easy way for you to tell. Again, check with Anthem tech support.


------------------------------------


There have been some hints that a fully finished version of "test" V1.47f may become "official" shortly after Anthem starts shipping its new Receiver products next month. But frankly it's been in the queue so long, I'll believe it when I see it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *silentbobandjay* /forum/post/19114066
> 
> 
> I just installed my AVM-50 and have a few questions:
> 
> 
> How do I obtain the latest (beta) software versions? I emailed tech support last night, but have not received a response. I'd like to perform my initial ARC setup this weekend if possible...
> 
> 
> I was going to set up my display with the Spears & Munsil BD and am stuck at step one - setting brightness with the Low Pluge pattern. No matter how I adjust my display (JVC RS35) I can't see any of the rectangles on the screen. My source is a PS3 set to Y'CbCr color space. Has anyone encountered this issue? If it matters, I am using a dedicated theater room with absolute light control.
> 
> 
> I've been lurking on this forum for quite some time and really appreciate the level of engagement and support that exists here. Thanks in advance for your help!



On the Beta ("test") software, you'll need to wait until you can reach Anthem tech support. Access is no big secret but they have asked us not to just post or release the info here as (1) they are trying to keep some sort of loose idea of who is using this stuff, and (2) they want to make sure you understand that "test" software is unfinished and may come with unpleasant surprises -- i.e., that you won't panic if you discover you need to roll back.


On your Spears & Munsil vs. PS3 problem, the answer is probably simple: For historical reasons related to how they program their games the PS3's default for YCbCr output is to clip Blacker than Black and Peak White data.


What you need to do in the PS3 is use YCbCr output with "SuperWhite" set to ON.


In the AVM 50, you do not need to change the defaults for its video input levels (Video Source Adjust > Picture while viewing the PS3 Source). The PS3 (set as above) outputs standard levels so the default "50" settings for Brightness/Contrast in that AVM-50 input are what you want.


Also check the Video Output configuration in the AVM-50. Use an explicit output data format (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of Auto.


If that doesn't fix the problem, then the problem is a setting in your JVC. It may be the particular picture mode you are using, or some sort of automatic black level adjustment setting (Automatic Gain Control for example). Check the first page of this thread for the post link, "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" as that may have some clues for you.


In particular, the FIRST thing you want to do, even before trying anything with the PS3 or any other Source, is to make sure your JVC is properly displaying the test patterns generated inside the AVM-50 -- Video Source Adjust > Patterns.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/19113776
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I have attached my ARC curves from version 2.4 and from the beta version .15. Both of these measurement were made exactly the same with the same speakers with the exception of the mic. Anthem replaced my mic as they thought there was a problem with the dip in the frequency response at 12Khz. All I can say that is that the beta version sounds worse as I have stated above in the quote. Both of the cures had a cut off of 10KHz. I recalculated the .15 beta data for 5Khz and it has helped but the sound is still not as good as it was with version 2.4. The measured response curves look much flatter with 2.4. The .15 beta curves show a decrease in the response over 5KHz. Do you think there is a problem with this mic or a software issue? Your help is much appreciated.



Something is definitely wrong in the second chart, the one that only includes LF/RF -- which is tagged on the lower left as the one from "test" ARC V2.4.15.


Your red Measured curves are down 15dB and more in treble compared to 5KHz.


This is the sort of response you would get if your tweeters were dead -- i.e., the only treble you are getting is the residual high end out of the mid-range drivers. Both tweeters might be blown or the speaker wire may be disconnected from the high frequency input jacks (or at the amp end if you are bi-wired).


It may be your new mic is faulty. One way to tell would be if the other speakers were showing the identical pattern. If treble looks good in the other speakers then the problem is definitely in your LF/RF speakers or in the electronics/wires feeding them.


Since the tweeter also contributes to the high mid-range, a blown, but not completely dead, tweeter will make the mid range sound harsh as well as losing the treble.


--------------------------------------------------


First, consider your install of ARC. You should have a new pair of licensing/calibration files from Anthem intended to go with your new mic. These are the two files with numbers for names -- the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your new ARC mic.


Check in C: > Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction where the installed copy of ARC resides and make sure the CORRECT 2 files are in there (new mic, not old mic).


Next, check your speakers: Turn OFF Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ for your CD player source (so the problematic ARC solution is not active), play a CD with treble content, set the Audio mode to Mono All, and put your ear up close to each of the drivers in each speaker. First make sure all the drivers are firing, then compare what you are hearing from the tweeters in LF/RF against Center or a Surround.


If you are not getting any sound from the tweeters in LF/RF, check the wiring/amps. If the tweeters or high mid-range in LF/RF sound distorted (even with ARC disabled) then the tweeters may be blown.


---------------------------------


If the tweeters sound fine with ARC disabled, then the problem may be your new mic. Again, if you have Measurements that also include the other speakers it will be pretty easy to tell if the mic is having treble response problems -- you'll have the identical pattern on all speakers.


By the way, I didn't see any indication in your V2.4 charts that you had a mic problem. I think Anthem's decision to send you a new mic was just their usual going "above and beyond". If you still HAVE your old mic, and the tweeters sound OK with ARC disabled, another thing to try would be to put back the 2 licensing/calibration files for the OLD mic and re-run ARC V2.4.15 Measurements with the old mic to see if you get proper treble response.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19116755
> 
> 
> Actually I'm surprised your Mac Mini is working at all with V1.33. Apple uses an unusual (but legal) method of doing the HDMI handshake and Anthem found they couldn't support that without also breaking the more common handshake used by older cable TV boxes so they did not support the Apple method in V1.33.
> 
> 
> Anthem has since figured out how to support both methods. There is "test" firmware -- V1.47f -- which includes that fix. But you will need to get that from Anthem tech support as they will need to verify your AVM 50 hardware configuration will work with it.
> 
> 
> Look through the top vents of your AVM 50 with a flashlight. If your video board (the big board at the top, just under the vents) is red, OR if you can see your power supply does *NOT* have the big, toroidal (donut-shaped) transformer then your AVM 50 is good to go for V1.47f.
> 
> 
> If your video board is gray or green *AND* your power supply has the donut, then your AVM 50 MIGHT still be OK for V1.47f, but there is no easy way for you to tell. Again, check with Anthem tech support.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> There have been some hints that a fully finished version of "test" V1.47f may become "official" shortly after Anthem starts shipping its new Receiver products next month. But frankly it's been in the queue so long, I'll believe it when I see it.
> 
> --Bob



I am using the new aluminum body Mac Mini with v1.47f and the HDMI output from the Mac works perfectly with an Anthem D2.

I get instantaneous HDMI switching at any of the numerous display resolutions available for the Mini.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19115229
> 
> 
> Is anyone else experiencing this shrillness. I am using 2.4.16 and there is no hint of this and with all of the previous betas I can't say this ever happened. I can't recall anyone else having this either.
> 
> John



I am using 2.4.14. When I raised my correction to 10khz I noticed the shrillness. I did A B switch between movie and Music to see the difference. Movie was set at 10khz and music was set at 5khz. The music sounded better and relaxed. So I changed movie back to 5khz and reloaded the arc.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19116663
> 
> 
> The D2v is also handling Rear Center (6.1) differently when decoding DTS-HD MA. OK if the TrueHD spec isn't calling for this 6dB down then that's a 3rd bug. One thing I can think of is that TrueHD LR/RR are getting decoded with opposite phase, so they largely cancel when mixed down to CR. A TrueHD 7.1 Speaker Phase test would show that as it would indicate LR and RR are mismatched in wiring polarity (whereas an LPCM 7.1 test would show them as wired correctly).



Since the test signals on the AIX disc happen one channel at a time, the polarity of the downmix summing would make no difference at all--one rear channel has signal, the other has nothing.


And if someone did make a 7.1 disc with simultaneous Lb/Rb signals--sourced from the same signal (i.e., they are coherent) they would either add up by 6 dB (in-phase) or disappear without a trace (opposite phase).


OTOH, if the signals in Lb/Rb were uncorrelated, they would downmix to +3 dB with in-phase summation, or downmix to +3 dB with opposite phase summation. Same result either polarity!


Bottom line, polarity plays no role in the -6 dB output condition we're seeing.


It may be that TrueHD is being downmixed the same as PCM, but the -6dB headroom scaling is not being corrected downstream for DTHD while it is for PCM, or b) they are applying -6 dB headroom scaling in TrueHD but forgot to do it in PCM (which could cause overload). They need some test signals encoded near 0 dBFS to easily verify that.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19117415
> 
> 
> I am using 2.4.14. When I raised my correction to 10khz I noticed the shrillness. I did A B switch between movie and Music to see the difference. Movie was set at 10khz and music was set at 5khz. The music sounded better and relaxed. So I changed movie back to 5khz and reloaded the arc.



Have you, or can you post your curves?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Roger, good point on my phase conjecture regarding Center Rear. Glad to see SOMEONE is paying attention!










The down mix to 6.1 is happening properly with other 7.1 sources. In particular, 7.1 LPCM results in 75dB in all speakers including CR. So I don't think the error is happening after the LPCM is produced.

--Bob


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19116870
> 
> 
> Something is definitely wrong in the second chart, the one that only includes LF/RF -- which is tagged on the lower left as the one from "test" ARC V2.4.15.
> 
> 
> Your red Measured curves are down 15dB and more in treble compared to 5KHz.
> 
> 
> This is the sort of response you would get if your tweeters were dead -- i.e., the only treble you are getting is the residual high end out of the mid-range drivers. Both tweeters might be blown or the speaker wire may be disconnected from the high frequency input jacks (or at the amp end if you are bi-wired).
> 
> 
> It may be your new mic is faulty. One way to tell would be if the other speakers were showing the identical pattern. If treble looks good in the other speakers then the problem is definitely in your LF/RF speakers or in the electronics/wires feeding them.
> 
> 
> Since the tweeter also contributes to the high mid-range, a blown, but not completely dead, tweeter will make the mid range sound harsh as well as losing the treble.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> First, consider your install of ARC. You should have a new pair of licensing/calibration files from Anthem intended to go with your new mic. These are the two files with numbers for names -- the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your new ARC mic.
> 
> 
> Check in C: > Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction where the installed copy of ARC resides and make sure the CORRECT 2 files are in there (new mic, not old mic).
> 
> 
> Next, check your speakers: Turn OFF Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ for your CD player source (so the problematic ARC solution is not active), play a CD with treble content, set the Audio mode to Mono All, and put your ear up close to each of the drivers in each speaker. First make sure all the drivers are firing, then compare what you are hearing from the tweeters in LF/RF against Center or a Surround.
> 
> 
> If you are not getting any sound from the tweeters in LF/RF, check the wiring/amps. If the tweeters or high mid-range in LF/RF sound distorted (even with ARC disabled) then the tweeters may be blown.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> If the tweeters sound fine with ARC disabled, then the problem may be your new mic. Again, if you have Measurements that also include the other speakers it will be pretty easy to tell if the mic is having treble response problems -- you'll have the identical pattern on all speakers.
> 
> 
> By the way, I didn't see any indication in your V2.4 charts that you had a mic problem. I think Anthem's decision to send you a new mic was just their usual going "above and beyond". If you still HAVE your old mic, and the tweeters sound OK with ARC disabled, another thing to try would be to put back the 2 licensing/calibration files for the OLD mic and re-run ARC V2.4.15 Measurements with the old mic to see if you get proper treble response.
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob,


Thank you for the quick and helpful response. I am getting this same response from all my 7.1 set up speakers. I know the speaker tweeters are fine. Also I sent these curves to Anthem support and they told me they look normal as did my old curves which I also sent them. I disagree and asked them to discuss this with engineering. I did set my cut off to 5 Khz and it does sound better but not as good as it previously did with my old mike and the released version of ARC. I will check again on the loaded mic response files. Thanks again.


I just checked the files, they are correct if they are *.cal file at 12K Bytes and *anthem.file at 40 bytes.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/19117662
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
> 
> 
> Thank you for the quick and helpful response. I am getting this same response from all my 7.1 set up speakers. I know the speaker tweeters are fine. Also I sent these curves to Anthem support and they told me they look normal as did my old curves which I also sent them. I disagree and asked them to discuss this with engineering. I did set my cut off to 5 Khz and it does sound better but not as good as it previously did with my old mike and the released version of ARC. I will check again on the loaded mic response files. Thanks again.



The chart you posted labeled V2.4 DOES look normal.


The chart you posted, labeled V2.4.15, does NOT look normal. I can only guess they may have gotten confused and looked at the wrong file.


Are you sure you took these Measurements with V2.4.15 (i.e., Measured with that version, not simply produced the charts with it based on earlier Measurements)? The earlier V2.4.12 "test" version of ARC had a bug which would produce Measurement charts like this -- fixed in V2.4.13. Failing that, I think I would try new Measurements with V2.4.15 (or now with V2.4.16) using your original mic.

--Bob


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19117686
> 
> 
> The chart you posted labeled V2.4 DOES look normal.
> 
> 
> The chart you posted, labeled V2.4.15, does NOT look normal. I can only guess they may have gotten confused and looked at the wrong file.
> 
> 
> Are you sure you took these Measurements with V2.4.15 (i.e., Measured with that version, not simply produced the charts with it based on earlier Measurements)? The earlier V2.4.12 "test" version of ARC had a bug which would produce Measurement charts like this -- fixed in V2.4.13. Failing that, I think I would try new Measurements with V2.4.15 (or now with V2.4.16) using your original mic.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


Yes I did measure everything from scratch with .15 beta version. I had to send my old mic back to Anthem. What is my next move?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/19117715
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Yes I did measure everything from scratch with .15 beta version. I had to send my old mic back to Anthem. What is my next move?



Let's try starting from scratch:


Download the "test" ARC V2.4.16 install kit and unzip it. Go into the resulting folders and find the Setup.exe (installer) program. Copy the two numbered files you found for the new mic into that same location with Setup.exe. These two files should have names made up of the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your new ARC mic.


Now use Windows Add/Remove programs to uninstall your current ARC version. When that finishes, go into Windows > Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction and delete the calibration files which will be left behind even after the uninstall. The result will be an empty folder. You can leave the empty folder in place. If you still have a shortcut to run ARC on your desktop, delete that as well.


Now reboot your Windows PC. Now run the Setup.exe installer to install ARC V2.4.16. The two mic files will be copied in as well. Reboot your Windows PC again. There should be a new shortcut on your desktop which will launch the installed copy of ARC.


Next go into your Anthem's Setup > Level Calibration and set every line EXCEPT FOR Test Level to 0dB. Then set Test Mode to Manual in the first line, scroll down one to Test Level, and verify that the test tone now coming from the LF speaker yields 75dB SPL. If not, adjust Test Level. (The LF line should be left as 0dB.) While you are at it, then scroll down to a subwoofer line. Leave it at 0dB and verify that the volume knob setting on your sub is also yielding 75dB SPL for the test tone coming from your sub. If not, adjust that volume knob. Exit out of the Setup menu and power down the Anthem.


Now launch your newly installed ARC V2.4.16 and try another Measurement. To speed things up you can tell ARC that Music is Same As Movie and that your configuration is only 2.0 speakers. You will still need to use 5 mic positions. Let's see if this gets you back to proper treble Measurements.

--Bob


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19117768
> 
> 
> Let's try starting from scratch:
> 
> 
> Download the "test" ARC V2.4.16 install kit and unzip it. Go into the resulting folders and find the Setup.exe (installer) program. Copy the two numbered files you found for the new mic into that same location with Setup.exe. These two files should have names made up of the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your new ARC mic.
> 
> 
> Now use Windows Add/Remove programs to uninstall your current ARC version. When that finishes, go into Windows > Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction and delete the calibration files which will be left behind even after the uninstall. The result will be an empty folder. You can leave the empty folder in place. If you still have a shortcut to run ARC on your desktop, delete that as well.
> 
> 
> Now reboot your Windows PC. Now run the Setup.exe installer to install ARC V2.4.16. The two mic files will be copied in as well. Reboot your Windows PC again. There should be a new shortcut on your desktop which will launch the installed copy of ARC.
> 
> 
> Next go into your Anthem's Setup > Level Calibration and set every line EXCEPT FOR Test Level to 0dB. Then set Test Mode to Manual in the first line, scroll down one to Test Level, and verify that the test tone now coming from the LF speaker yields 75dB SPL. If not, adjust it. While you are at it, then scroll down to a subwoofer line. Leave it at 0dB and verify that the volume knob setting on your sub is also yielding 75dB SPL for the test tone coming from your sub. If not, adjust that volume knob. Exit out of the Setup menu and power down the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Now launch your newly installed ARC V2.4.16 and try another Measurement. To speed things up you can tell ARC that Music is Same As Movie and that your configuration is only 2.0 speakers. You will still need to use 5 mic positions. Let's see if this gets you back to proper treble Measurements.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I will give it a try and get back to you.


----------



## tngiloy

I have had 2 weird things happen recently when I was redoing my speaker level calibration in preparation to rerun ARC for my new HT room.


The first may help someone else from scratching his head, like I did, for a while.

When I went into 'level calibration' and went to set the 'noise level' to 75dB I was only able to raise it to 68/69dB. The D2 was only giving me from -20 to -10 to adjust the the noise level. I had been able to get the 'noise level' to 75dB before in a bigger room, so I was confused (which if you have read my other posts is no big surprise).

I tried to think what other settings I might have changed that might cause this limitation in the 'noise level' and remembered that I had changed my 'main max vol' from +10 to -10 in 'vol/path names'. We sometimes have some neighbor kids come over to watch movies and I was paranoid about the 5 y.o. playing with the volume knob and blowing my speakers. When I changed the 'main max vol' back to +10 I then had a -20 to +10 range to play with in the 'noise level' and was able to easily set it at 75dB. The 'main max vol' does affect the 'noise level' settings, so be careful when you do your speaker calibration if you have set your 'main max vol' at a kid proof level.


The second thing that happened was with the sub levels in speaker 'level calibration'.

I have 2 subs, so I set the level for each one at @72dB. When I checked the level with both of them turned on, my SPL meter reading was all over the place. It would jump from 70dB to 77dB to 72dB and back again. I checked the back of my subs and saw that I had changed the phase setting on one sub during the move to my new HT room. One was on 0 and the other was at about 60. They had both been on 0 before and were fine in the other room, so I set them both back to 0, but the SPL reading was still jumping around. Then I set one sub to 0 and the other to 180 and the SPL reading was stable at 75dB.

Does the stable SPL reading mean that the phase is now set correctly?

Were they cancelling each other out at certain freqencies and causing the volume to jump around?

I used my calibration discs to check the phase of the subs against the LF speaker and they sound OK, and the low freqency to hi freqency sweeps sound smooth, so I think that they are set correctly to phase now. I was just wondering if the SPL jump I was experiencing was clue that the subs were out of phase, or just a weird abberation.


Tom


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19117643
> 
> 
> Roger, good point on my phase conjecture regarding Center Rear. Glad to see SOMEONE is paying attention!



Touché Bob, this is riveting stuff!











> Quote:
> The down mix to 6.1 is happening properly with other 7.1 sources. In particular, 7.1 LPCM results in 75dB in all speakers including CR. So I don't think the error is happening after the LPCM is produced.



Downmixing is a funny business. It's usually a 2-step process, whether it's mixing two surrounds into one, or mixing 5.1 down to stereo. The summing of signals can lead to overload since each source can already hit 0dBFS.


In the case of mixing 2 down to 1, we have 6 dB more output, so scaling the mixer down 6 dB avoids clipping. This might be what is happening with DTHD, but in fact it needs to happen with every codec, DTS, PCM, whatever, the issue is the same. After all the DSP processing is completed, these gain offsets are compensated post-DAC by shifting the channel gains in the volume control stage. The end user never sees this housekeeping on any display, but it's there.


So now we see that the PCM downmixed output is 6 dB higher than the DTHD. Is that because PCM is not being scaled down (protected) or is it because both are being properly scaled, but DTHD has not been gain corrected post-DAC? There's no way to tell using single channel test signals. Nick might be able to shed light, of course.


The other issue with downmixing is to decide how to calibrate the output channel. It might be obvious on one hand to look at how the PCM is working and say yes, that's how it should work for all the codecs, where each channel in the source is represented at unity gain--100%. But consider a real soundtrack played in a real room. In the 7.1 mix we have music, ambiance, and the occasional panned effect. If a sound is panned straight to the rear (a common destination for an EX mix), it comes out of 2 speakers in the 7.1 room, at an SPL some 3 dB louder than either speaker alone. But if those two signals are electrically added, the output is 6 dB higher. The panned effect will thus get a 3 dB emphasis on the 6.1 system vs. the 7.1 kit. For that reason, it has been common to see downmixers apply -3 dB to offset this.


OTOH, you could say that the music and ambiance are random, decorrelated, and when summed, the output is only 3 dB louder, same as the 7.1 playback. Yes, that will be true IF the signals are truly decorrelated. Assuming that's true, we have Ls/Rs outputting our music/ambience at x dB SPL, and the Cs outputting similar sounds at x+3 dB SPL. It may be the correct loudness wrt the mix, but that rear speaker is not on the same level field as the Ls/Rs. It might draw undue attention to itself. Add to that the rather powerful ability of a single rear center speaker to occlude spatial effect (it adds a monophonic blanket over the proceedings), I would assert that less is more from that speaker, and that it's wiser to go with the -3 dB gain correction rather than the 0 dB (as in the PCM example) so as to minimize this potential effect and to correctly preserve panned effect levels. There's no way to get both correlated and uncorrelated signals to sum electrically the same as they do acoustically, so the best compromise must be picked.


Not that it adds any further validity to the above, but this is what I see happening in the SSP-800, the -3 dB overall gain (-6 dB in the mixer, and +3 dB post-DAC gain correction).


Whichever philosophy Anthem decides is up to them. All that remains is to make it uniform across all codecs.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19116562
> 
> 
> If you are using the Setup > Level Calibration tones to determine this the answer is definitely no. First, ARC uses a wider frequency range to select the best volume trim, and second the Level Calibration tones don't include the boosts or cuts implemented in the Room Correction parameters so they don't represent the true level of the speakers when ARC is active.
> 
> 
> Trust the levels ARC has Uploaded. Make sure you Save User and Installer Settings after an ARC Upload so that you don't accidentally undo the Upload later by restoring from those.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19116203
> 
> 
> ARC adjusts those as part of it's equalization process so it is normal to have this discrepancy. Don't change the trim levels, trust ARC's settings.
> 
> John



Bob & Jayray:


Thanks for the answers. so this 4dB difference between the speakers, as measured by my RS meter, is normal? Wouldn;t that skew the sound somewhat?


Also, my Subwoofer level trims are set at -8 dB. How could this be since I calibrated each of my 2 subs (via Rs meter) to about 71-72dB each before I performed ARC? Is this due to the difference between the RS meter and Anthem's mic? If so, is it normal?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19118420
> 
> 
> Bob & Jayray:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the answers. so this 4dB difference between the speakers, as measured by my RS meter, is normal? Wouldn;t that skew the sound somewhat?
> 
> 
> Also, my Subwoofer level trims are set at -8 dB. How could this be since I calibrated each of my 2 subs (via Rs meter) to about 71-72dB each before I performed ARC? Is this due to the difference between the RS meter and Anthem's mic? If so, is it normal?



Using the tones in Level Calibration, a couple dB either side of the average level (e.g., 75dB if that's what you were targeting) is pretty normal, so a 4dB swing between the extremes is not out of line.


The -8dB volume trim for your pair of subs is more than I would like to see. It's possible you were not using the SPL meter correctly or that it needs a fresh battery. Also, the way two subs couple together depends on details of where they are in the room. In any event it's easy to refine. Lower each sub a few dB prior to the next Measurement pass. Ideally you want the volume trims ARC uploads for all the speakers to be within a few dB either side of 0dB.


Also remember that when using ARC you must specify "1 Sub" in your Speaker Configuration in Setup even though you have more than one sub. If you have "2 Subs" or one of the "Super" settings, correct it to "1 Sub" then go and re-adjust the volume knob on each of the subs (powered one at a time) using your SPL meter, and then re-Measure for ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19117994
> 
> 
> I have had 2 weird things happen recently when I was redoing my speaker level calibration in preparation to rerun ARC for my new HT room.
> 
> 
> The first may help someone else from scratching his head, like I did, for a while.
> 
> When I went into 'level calibration' and went to set the 'noise level' to 75dB I was only able to raise it to 68/69dB. The D2 was only giving me from -20 to -10 to adjust the the noise level. I had been able to get the 'noise level' to 75dB before in a bigger room, so I was confused (which if you have read my other posts is no big surprise).
> 
> I tried to think what other settings I might have changed that might cause this limitation in the 'noise level' and remembered that I had changed my 'main max vol' from +10 to -10 in 'vol/path names'. We sometimes have some neighbor kids come over to watch movies and I was paranoid about the 5 y.o. playing with the volume knob and blowing my speakers. When I changed the 'main max vol' back to +10 I then had a -20 to +10 range to play with in the 'noise level' and was able to easily set it at 75dB. The 'main max vol' does affect the 'noise level' settings, so be careful when you do your speaker calibration if you have set your 'main max vol' at a kid proof level.
> 
> 
> The second thing that happened was with the sub levels in speaker 'level calibration'.
> 
> I have 2 subs, so I set the level for each one at @72dB. When I checked the level with both of them turned on, my SPL meter reading was all over the place. It would jump from 70dB to 77dB to 72dB and back again. I checked the back of my subs and saw that I had changed the phase setting on one sub during the move to my new HT room. One was on 0 and the other was at about 60. They had both been on 0 before and were fine in the other room, so I set them both back to 0, but the SPL reading was still jumping around. Then I set one sub to 0 and the other to 180 and the SPL reading was stable at 75dB.
> 
> Does the stable SPL reading mean that the phase is now set correctly?
> 
> Were they cancelling each other out at certain freqencies and causing the volume to jump around?
> 
> I used my calibration discs to check the phase of the subs against the LF speaker and they sound OK, and the low freqency to hi freqency sweeps sound smooth, so I think that they are set correctly to phase now. I was just wondering if the SPL jump I was experiencing was clue that the subs were out of phase, or just a weird abberation.
> 
> 
> Tom



The fact that the SPL meter was getting confused by the subs being out of phase is not too surprising since it is trying to average and probably finding the contributions to its averaging are oscillating a bit. SPL meters tend to be a bit bouncy doing even single sub measures. "Slow" response on the SPL meter is your friend. The calibration sweep is a much better test of whether the subs are in proper phase with LF of course, but even that is tricky because of uncorrected room responses. I.e., the variations you hear might be room responses, not phase errors. If you found a 180 degree phase difference was good you should try inverting the polarity of just one of the subs (typically one at the rear of the room ) and see if you can get even better phase balance after that. The phase controls take effect only in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies whereas inverting polarity affects all frequencies.


Again the usual rule of thumb is to adjust phase for each sub powered alone against the LF speaker. Do this for both polarities on that sub and pick which Polarity/Phase combo works best against LF. When each sub is properly in phase with LF then they are also in phase with each other. The last step is to see whether the alternate polarity (and corresponding phase change) on ONE sub makes the combo of the TWO subs sound like they are in better phase with each other and with LF due to helping in the frequencies outside of where the Phase control takes effect. If your current ARC solution was set up with the pair of subs not properly phase adjusted, then turn off ARC (Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = OFF) for you calibration disc player so that ARC's bogus idea of how to correct things doesn't interfere with your attempt to get Phase correct.


-------------------------------------


The level trims in the D2v have some complex limiting factors. The range of trim available is indeed altered by the Max Volume setting as you found, but there is also a maximum span of adjustment between speakers. So if one speaker needs a lot of cut you'll have less boost range available for some other speaker. This is another reason why you want to get an ARC solution where all the Uploaded volume trims are within a few dB either side of 0dB.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19118600
> 
> 
> The fact that the SPL meter was getting confused by the subs being out of phase is not too surprising since it is trying to average and probably finding the contributions to its averaging are oscillating a bit. SPL meters tend to be a bit bouncy doing even single sub measures. "Slow" response on the SPL meter is your friend. The calibration sweep is a much better test of whether the subs are in proper phase with LF of course, but even that is tricky because of uncorrected room responses. I.e., the variations you hear might be room responses, not phase errors. If you found a 180 degree phase difference was good you should try inverting the polarity of just one of the subs (typically one at the rear of the room ) and see if you can get even better phase balance after that. The phase controls take effect only in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies whereas inverting polarity affects all frequencies.
> 
> 
> Again the usual rule of thumb is to adjust phase for each sub powered alone against the LF speaker. Do this for both polarities on that sub and pick which Polarity/Phase combo works best against LF. When each sub is properly in phase with LF then they are also in phase with each other. The last step is to see whether the alternate polarity (and corresponding phase change) on ONE sub makes the combo of the TWO subs sound like they are in better phase with each other and with LF due to helping in the frequencies outside of where the Phase control takes effect. If your current ARC solution was set up with the pair of subs not properly phase adjusted, then turn off ARC (Setup > Source Setup > Room EQ = OFF) for you calibration disc player so that ARC's bogus idea of how to correct things doesn't interfere with your attempt to get Phase correct.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The level trims in the D2v have some complex limiting factors. The range of trim available is indeed altered by the Max Volume setting as you found, but there is also a maximum span of adjustment between speakers. So if one speaker needs a lot of cut you'll have less boost range available for some other speaker. This is another reason why you want to get an ARC solution where all the Uploaded volume trims are within a few dB either side of 0dB.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I have the SPL meter set to 'C' 'Slow' for all readings.

I use 2 SVS pb ultra subs, and I don't see any way to switch the polarity on the sub.

I know I can switch the polarity in the D2, but that would change the polarity for both.

The subs have controls for Gain, Crossover Freqency (disabled for ARC), and Phase. It also has a Parametric Eqalizer which is disabled for ARC.

I see no Polarity control on the SVS.

What am I not understanding?


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19118713
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I have the SPL meter set to 'C' 'Slow' for all readings.
> 
> I use 2 SVS pb ultra subs, and I don't see any way to switch the polarity on the sub.
> 
> I know I can switch the polarity in the D2, but that would change the polarity for both.
> 
> The subs have controls for Gain, Crossover Freqency (disabled for ARC), and Phase. It also has a Parametric Eqalizer which is disabled for ARC.
> 
> I see no Polarity control on the SVS.
> 
> What am I not understanding?
> 
> 
> Tom



Well if the subs don't offer that control, your life just got simpler!










Pick the best Phase setting in each sub (i.e., match each to LF), re-Measure for ARC, and enjoy the result. Keep in mind ARC will correct a good deal of any cancellation BETWEEN the two subs since ARC hears them playing together during Measurement.


If you want to play further with this, you can get the effect of matching polarity by placing the subs so that cone motion is in the same direction -- i.e., both subs in the front of the room facing the seating or both in the rear of the room facing the seating, and equidistant.


And with the new Quick Measure in the "test" ARC, you can see in real time the effect of each sub on the other as you tweak positioning. Power both subs when doing this. Keep in mind you STILL want to make sure each sub's Phase is best matched to LF, so it is kind of an iterative process. Tweak the sub position, go check Phase for each, go see if the good result you got by tweaking the sub position still holds true.


Again, if your combined sub output is good enough according to ARC's charts after you phase match each sub to LF and re-Measure, you might not want to fiddle with all this.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19118514
> 
> 
> Using the tones in Level Calibration, a couple dB either side of the average level (e.g., 75dB if that's what you were targeting) is pretty normal, so a 4dB swing between the extremes is not out of line.
> 
> 
> The -8dB volume trim for your pair of subs is more than I would like to see. It's possible you were not using the SPL meter correctly or that it needs a fresh battery. Also, the way two subs couple together depends on details of where they are in the room. In any event it's easy to refine. Lower each sub a few dB prior to the next Measurement pass. Ideally you want the volume trims ARC uploads for all the speakers to be within a few dB either side of 0dB.
> 
> 
> Also remember that when using ARC you must specify "1 Sub" in your Speaker Configuration in Setup even though you have more than one sub. If you have "2 Subs" or one of the "Super" settings, correct it to "1 Sub" then go and re-adjust the volume knob on each of the subs (powered one at a time) using your SPL meter, and then re-Measure for ARC.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob:


I will recal when v2.4.16 becomes official (v2.5?). Now regarding the advice you gave tngiloy with multiple subs, the way I optimized my system was that I set the phases of my subs to zero as I move each sub to find optimum placement, which in this case was the place with the widest and smoothest frequency response from each sub. Once I place each of them correctly in the room, I then phase match both of them to the LF speaker using the phase adjustment feature within the Anthem speaker menu. In my case, i found the phase angle to be about 130 degrees when I played a test tone at 80Hz, the crossover frequency that ARC found for my room.


Is my technique valid or do I need to do it as you described to tngiloy above? I'm afraid that I might knock the phase knob setting by mistake as I 'tinker' or move the sub when polishing the sub or vacuuming the room







The knobs are easily moved by the slightest of touch unfortunately.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19118726
> 
> 
> Well if the subs don't offer that control, your life just got simpler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pick the best Phase setting in each sub (i.e., match each to LF), re-Measure for ARC, and enjoy the result. Keep in mind ARC will correct a good deal of any cancellation BETWEEN the two subs since ARC hears them playing together during Measurement.
> 
> 
> If you want to play further with this, you can get the effect of matching polarity by placing the subs so that cone motion is in the same direction -- i.e., both subs in the front of the room facing the seating or both in the rear of the room facing the seating, and equidistant.
> 
> 
> And with the new Quick Measure in the "test" ARC, you can see in real time the effect of each sub on the other as you tweak positioning. Power both subs when doing this. Keep in mind you STILL want to make sure each sub's Phase is best matched to LF, so it is kind of an iterative process. Tweak the sub position, go check Phase for each, go see if the good result you got by tweaking the sub position still holds true.
> 
> 
> Again, if your combined sub output is good enough according to ARC's charts after you phase match each sub to LF and re-Measure, you might not want to fiddle with all this.
> 
> --Bob



"One less thing to worry about" as F. Gump would say.

I ran ARC before I changed the phase and there was a big dip in the sub measurement that disappeared after the phase was corrected. The subs looked as good as they ever have. All the speaker's graphs look good. Sound excellent.

FWIW both subs are in the front and they are down-firing.

I'm waiting for the 'official' ARC and D2 firmware release- I'm using 2.4 and v1.33. I'm looking forward to the newer firmwares and will tinker with the sub placement when ARC 2.5 is released and the quick measure is available to me.

Thanks for your help, again,


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob:
> 
> 
> I will recal when v2.4.16 becomes official (v2.5?). Now regarding the advice you gave tngiloy with multiple subs, the way I optimized my system was that I set the phases of my subs to zero as I move each sub to find optimum placement, which in this case was the place with the widest and smoothest frequency response from each sub. Once I place each of them correctly in the room, I then phase match both of them to the LF speaker using the phase adjustment feature within the Anthem speaker menu. In my case, i found the phase angle to be about 130 degrees when I played a test tone at 80Hz, the crossover frequency that ARC found for my room.
> 
> 
> Is my technique valid or do I need to do it as you described to tngiloy above? I'm afraid that I might knock the phase knob setting by mistake as I 'tinker' or move the sub when polishing the sub or vacuuming the room
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The knobs are easily moved by the slightest of touch unfortunately.



That's probably fine. You can get too wrapped up trying to fiddle with all the possible ways to tweak this stuff. You've accomplished the most important goals.


The proof is whether ARC's Measured curve for the pair of subs is giving you good energy all across the frequency range -- and the resulting Correction looks clean. If that's true, and if a crossover test sweep also sounds clean after Uploading the resulting ARC solution, then of course you are done.


You only need to tweak if there's a problem that needs correcting.









--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19118982
> 
> 
> That's probably fine. You can get too wrapped up trying to fiddle with all the possible ways to tweak this stuff. You've accomplished the most important goals.
> 
> 
> The proof is whether ARC's Measured curve for the pair of subs is giving you good energy all across the frequency range -- and the resulting Correction looks clean. If that's true, and if a crossover test sweep also sounds clean after Uploading the resulting ARC solution, then of course you are done.
> 
> 
> You only need to tweak if there's a problem that needs correcting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Cool ...thanx again Bob!


Now, we know that ARC performs frequency adjustments to match your speakers to the room. But does it also do phase response compensation as well to ensure that all frequencies reach your ears at the same time? Anthem doesn't seem to stress this feature whereas room correction prgrams such as audyssey and others tout this feature greatly in their literature.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19117994
> 
> 
> I have had 2 weird things happen recently when I was redoing my speaker level calibration in preparation to rerun ARC for my new HT room.
> 
> 
> The first may help someone else from scratching his head, like I did, for a while.
> 
> When I went into 'level calibration' and went to set the 'noise level' to 75dB I was only able to raise it to 68/69dB. The D2 was only giving me from -20 to -10 to adjust the the noise level. I had been able to get the 'noise level' to 75dB before in a bigger room, so I was confused (which if you have read my other posts is no big surprise).
> 
> I tried to think what other settings I might have changed that might cause this limitation in the 'noise level' and remembered that I had changed my 'main max vol' from +10 to -10 in 'vol/path names'. We sometimes have some neighbor kids come over to watch movies and I was paranoid about the 5 y.o. playing with the volume knob and blowing my speakers. When I changed the 'main max vol' back to +10 I then had a -20 to +10 range to play with in the 'noise level' and was able to easily set it at 75dB. The 'main max vol' does affect the 'noise level' settings, so be careful when you do your speaker calibration if you have set your 'main max vol' at a kid proof level.
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Tom



Good catch Tom ....Nice to know, thanks







!


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> MACCA350,
> 
> 
> If you get a chance, please try re-running that War of the Worlds BD test with your D2v Speaker Configuration set to 5.1. *We know that will make the PLIIx/LPCM 5.1 3dB boost go away (since PLIIx won't be available -- 5.1 input to 5.1 speakers), the question is whether it also fixes the DTS-HD MA Bitstream decoding boost you are reporting from that disc.



Will do.



> Quote:
> The DTS-HD MA decoder, by design, does things differently according to how many speakers it thinks are in use and also whether the "alternate speaker presentation" nonsense is encoded in the track. *If changing the D2v from 7.1 to 5.1 speakers alters how the Bitstream level is decoded in the D2v, that will point right to the problem. *It's even barely possible that the embedded, "core" lossy DTS compatibility track (also 5.1) is what's getting decoded -- by mistake of course -- and it just happens to have the different level. *The D2v's status displays will not indicate whether or not the "core" DTS is being decoded.



Anything is possible I guess.



> Quote:
> When you get this War of the Worlds BD info to Anthem, it will be helpful if you can also give them the bar code and/or ISBN number off the disc case as it is possible the disc you are using is different from one they might readily find in Canada.



Australian releases.

BD barcode: 9324915036666

DVD barcode: 9324915057319



> Quote:
> By the way, changing the "Down Mix" setting in the Oppo BDP-83 does not affect its HDMI audio output. *It only alters the multi-channel analog output. *The HDMI output from the 83 is set automatically by what the AVR says it can accept as input -- 7.1 in the case of the D2v -- against whatever content is actually present in the track.



I might setup the analog outputs and put the D2v into Analog Direct mode to check it out then.




> Quote:
> And you may have missed it, but Roger has confirmed that the TrueHD 7.1 track on AIX is down 4dB due to the way AIX set Dial Norm for that track. *I.e., the Oppo and the D2v are "doing the right thing" with that track.
> 
> 
> I have seen the V2.10 firmware show Dial Norm for TrueHD Bitstreams so I think it likely the D2v is doing what the meta-data is telling it to do.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 4dB down when decoding the TrueHD 7.1 track looks like a coding error on the AIX disc -- failure to include the meta-data for +4dB Dial Norm. *This too could easily be worked around by raising Main Volume, but of course if it is just an error in this track there's no need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can confirm that dialnorm is reducing 4 dB on this disc.*
> 
> 
> It is not a Dolby thing. They do not specify downmixing in downstream processing. By way of contrast, I checked all three 7.1 ID tracks on the AIX disc in the SSP-800, and their 6.1 downnmixer happens to scale the Lb/Rb by -3 dB when it sums them together. All three codecs are handled the same. So it appears to be a choice of the D2 design. Why it's handled any different than the PCM mode, I cannot guess.
Click to expand...


DialNorm itself does not have +values ie the spec doesn't increase level it only attenuates, as far as I know this is a THX product reporting thing and it appears to be showing the adjusted level compared to the Dolby specified output of -31dBFS DialNorm. From what I understand THX wanted dialog set to reference the usually mixed level of -27dBFS and this didn't jell with the Dolby DialNorm spec. So a compromise was reached to allow THX certified processors to increase all Dolby Digital tracks by 4dB across the board yet still apply DialNorm in the usual way. This would mean that all DD tracks would be increased by 4dB compared to a non-THX processor. So I'm assuming THX processors would display as such:


1. +4dB = -31dBFS DN metadata +4dB THX adjustment for -27dBFS DN output. Non THX processor would display as No display/0dBFS for -31dBFS DN output

2. No display/0dBFS = -27dBFS DN metadata +4dB THX adjustment for -27dBFS DN output. Non THX processor would display as -4dB for -31dBFS DN output

3. -1dB = -26dBFS DN metadata +4dB THX adjustment for -27dBFS DN output. Non THX processor would display as -5dB for -31dBFS DN output

4. -4dB = -23dBFS DN metadata +4dB THX adjustment for -27dBFS DN output. Non THX processor would display as -8dB for -31dBFS DN output


This is something Mark from CAVX and I tried work it out a few years ago, but we gave up and moved on. I could easily setup and run both processors and throw in a bunch of discs to compile some data which I could easily deduce what is actually going on. Maybe Roger can fill in some history and clear this up in a couple of sentences











One other thing I just noticed while taking some time out to watch Hancock BD TrueHD 5.1 track was a near complete loss of dynamics. I checked and Dolby Vol was off and DD/DTS Dynamics was also off. I then flicked between DD/DTS Dynamics on late night and off and there seemed to be no difference at all. I know that the DRC in TrueHD tracks which is different to the DD DRC has given issues with different processors defaulting to Auto, but I cannot seem to find a separate DRC menu specific for TrueHD tracks. Any ideas where it is?


Cheers **


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19119325
> 
> 
> DialNorm itself does not have +values ie the spec doesn't increase level it only attenuates, as far as I know this is a THX product reporting thing and it appears to be showing the adjusted level compared to the Dolby specified output of -31dBFS DialNorm. From what I understand THX wanted dialog set to reference the usually mixed level of -27dBFS and this didn't jell with the Dolby DialNorm spec. So a compromise was reached to allow THX certified processors to increase all Dolby Digital tracks by 4dB across the board yet still apply DialNorm in the usual way. This would mean that all DD tracks would be increased by 4dB compared to a non-THX processor.



Right, the idea was that since most movies have dialnorm values of -27, adding 4 dB gain would cancel the dialnorm, thus playing back the same loudness as that movie were it from the PCM source. Now the THX master volume is accurate (at least for DN=-27).



> Quote:
> I know that the DRC in TrueHD tracks which is different to the DD DRC has given issues with different processors defaulting to Auto, but I cannot seem to find a separate DRC menu specific for TrueHD tracks. Any ideas where it is?



Bob or others will advise on where the DTHD DRC switch lives. But in the meantime, you could try decoding in the BD player and turning off the DRC there--just to see if that restores the dynamics. Not sure which player you use, but in the Oppo it's in the audio menu and it does control DTHD as well as DD.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If the Oppo is doing the decoding, the Dynamic Range Control setting applies. It is Auto by factory default, and I recommend changing that to Off and leaving it off.


If the D2v is doing the decoding the Dynamics setting applies. Press "0" once to view/alter the Dolby Volume setting, and if that is Off, press "0" again to view/alter the Dynamics setting. The default is Normal which means no reduction.


If you've been playing with Dolby Volume and have loss of dynamic range, press "0" both times to confirm DV is Off and Dynamics is Normal. If so, try power cycling the D2v to see if that cures the problem as there may still be some bugs surrounding Dolby Volume On/Off.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Right, the idea was that since most movies have dialnorm values of -27, adding 4 dB gain would cancel the dialnorm, thus playing back the same loudness as that movie were it from the PCM source. Now the THX master volume is accurate (at least for DN=-27).



Is this normally performed in the decoding stage in digital or in the volume control post dac?

It seems the AIX TrueHD 7.1 track is being adjusted by the Dolby standard -4dB to -31dBFS and the THX +4dB is not occurring to bring it up to -27dBFS. Quite strange as Bob has mentioned and I have also noticed many TrueHD tracks are triggering the THX +4dB adjustment, whether this is an intermittent bug or just applies to TrueHD 7.1 tracks across the board i'm not certain yet.


Someone needs to go through the D2v software with a fine tooth comb and sort out all these issues


Bob or others will advise on where the DTHD DRC switch lives. But in the meantime, you could try decoding in the BD player and turning off the DRC there--just to see if that restores the dynamics. Not sure which player you use, but in the Oppo it's in the audio menu and it does control DTHD as well as DD.[/quote]

Running the oppo bd83, good to know it controls both for sure. I'll give that a go next time.


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If the Oppo is doing the decoding, the Dynamic Range Control setting applies. It is Auto by factory default, and I recommend changing that to Off and leaving it off.
> 
> 
> If the D2v is doing the decoding the Dynamics setting applies. Press "0" once to view/alter the Dolby Volume setting, and if that is Off, press "0" again to view/alter the Dynamics setting. The default is Normal which means no reduction.
> 
> 
> If you've been playing with Dolby Volume and have loss of dynamic range, press "0" both times to confirm DV is Off and Dynamics is Normal. If so, try power cycling the D2v to see if that cures the problem as there may still be some bugs surrounding Dolby Volume On/Off.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I was aware of both those dynamic options and the 0 button quick access........the first thing I did was hit the 0 button to check both dynamic control modes were actually off and normal and they were. I then cycled through both. Dolby Vol made a difference but the DD/DTS Dynamic Off and Late Night made no difference. The one thing I didn't try was a power cycle, which I'll try next time.......maybe it was just a glitch.


So there is no specific control for the TrueHD specific DRC?

Is the DD/DTS Dynamics control confirmed to operate both DD and TrueHD DRC options?


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No separate control and yes, although the last time we had a confirmation of that was a ways back -- around the time of the Iron Man debacle as I recall.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Here are my latest measurments with 2.4.16, Test level at 75 dB. No shrillness.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19119895
> 
> 
> Here are my latest measurments with 2.4.16, Test level at 75 dB. No shrillness.
> 
> John



Your graphs look good; but, your basic volume level is 85db instead of 75db.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19119928
> 
> 
> Your graphs look good; but, your basic volume level is 85db instead of 75db.



This is what happens most of the time. Calibrate to 75 with test tone and 85 pops out. Never changes the volume levels.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19119928
> 
> 
> Your graphs look good; but, your basic volume level is 85db instead of 75db.



It looks like this is the new "normal". Set Test Level for 75dB SPL and expect charts that show 85dB SPL. However the actual volume level still matches what older versions of ARC produced.


The difference is what the chart now represents.


Test Level was, and still is, referenced to normal playback at -10dB Main Volume. This is actually pretty common for AVRs and prepros. The idea is to make it easy to set things up at 75dB SPL -- a good level for home theater use. And then, if you want, you can raise Main Volume 10dB (to 0dB to be at calibrated level) to experience what commercial theater setup sounds like -- 85dB SPL -- a level that is almost always too loud for comfortable home theater use.


It used to be the ARC charts meant the same thing.


It now appears the ARC charts are referenced to normal playback at 0dB Main Volume -- so they show 85dB when Test Level was set for 75dB. Practically speaking, there should be no difference. That is, when you play normal content, the same Main Volume setting you used before will still work now.


NOTE FOR NEWBIES: All of the above refers to "reference level" audio input from your sources. "Peak Level", particularly in movie tracks, can easily be 15dB higher. That is, don't be surprised if you set things up like this and then discover that -10dB on your Main path Volume (much less 0dB!) is still too loud for comfort (much less for keeping the neighbors happy!). Just set a comfortable volume level and enjoy. There's no reason to subject yourself to audio that is too loud just because the audio editor decided he wanted to show off how loud he could make his new film.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19119961
> 
> 
> This is what happens most of the time. Calibrate to 75 with test tone and 85 pops out. Never changes the volume levels.
> 
> John



Will you be contacting Anthem to find out if the basic volume level, for the beta and the soon to be official release of ARC, should be 75db or is it now 85db?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19119978
> 
> 
> It looks like this is the new "normal". Set Test Level for 75dB SPL and expect charts that show 85dB SPL. However the actual volume level still matches what older versions of ARC produced.
> 
> 
> The difference is what the chart now represents.
> 
> 
> Test Level was, and still is, referenced to normal playback at -10dB Main Volume. This is actually pretty common for AVRs and prepros. The idea is to make it easy to set things up at 75dB SPL -- a good level for home theater use. And then, if you want, you can raise Main Volume 10dB (to 0dB to be at calibrated level) to hear what commercial theater setup sounds like -- 85dB SPL -- a level that is almost always too loud for comfortable home theater use.
> 
> 
> It used to be the ARC charts meant the same thing.
> 
> 
> It now appears the ARC charts are referenced to normal playback at 0dB Main Volume -- so they show 85dB when Test Level was set for 75dB. Practically speaking, there should be no difference. That is, when you play normal content, the same Main Volume setting you used before will still work now.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, so even though the charts are showing 85db, it's showing it based on the Master Volume Level being set to 0db right?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19119895
> 
> 
> Here are my latest measurments with 2.4.16, Test level at 75 dB. No shrillness.
> 
> John



It looks to me like your mic data is good up to 15KHz (same thing I'm seeing). That means the roll off in your surrounds up there is "real" and so you might want to try pushing 12KHz up to 15KHz to correct that last fraction of an octave. (I presume you've already considered adjusting the speaker pointing for your surrounds.) Your fronts and Center need no significant correction up there, so moving up to 15KHz should not alter them.


I think I'd also drop Room Gain a bit to see if that last dribble of residual error in Center at 100Hz can be cleaned up without messing up anything else.


Your sub response is unreal. I hope your house has a good, solid foundation!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19119998
> 
> 
> Ok, so even though the charts are showing 85db, it's showing it based on the Master Volume Level being set to 0db right?



That seems to be what's going on. The important result is that the same volume settings work for normal content as before. So nothing has really changed in the effective volume level of the ARC solution.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19119981
> 
> 
> Will you be contacting Anthem to find out if the basic volume level, for the beta and the soon to be official release of ARC, should be 75db or is it now 85db?



I agree with Bob. This discrepancy has never made a diff in my listening volume levels.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19120061
> 
> 
> It looks to me like your mic data is good up to 15KHz (same thing I'm seeing). That means the roll off in your surrounds up there is "real" and so you might want to try pushing 12KHz up to 15KHz to correct that last fraction of an octave. (I presume you've already considered adjusting the speaker pointing for your surrounds.) Your fronts and Center need no significant correction up there, so moving up to 15KHz should not alter them.
> 
> 
> I think I'd also drop Room Gain a bit to see if that last dribble of residual error in Center at 100Hz can be cleaned up without messing up anything else.
> 
> 
> Your sub response is unreal. I hope your house has a good, solid foundation!
> 
> --Bob



My sub thanks you, Bob, for the kind words







I have attached my new calculations based on your recommendations and they now have a lower room gain and sub cutoff has been lowered to 115, to take out some weird wobbles introduced at the new gain and correction freq. of 15000. Surrounds cannot be moved or angled in.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19120642
> 
> 
> I agree with Bob. This discrepancy has never made a diff in my listening volume levels.
> 
> John



Yes, I agree. My listening volume level sounded the same during my listening session.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19120947
> 
> 
> My sub thanks you, Bob, for the kind words
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have attached my new calculations based on your recommendations and they now have a lower room gain and sub cutoff has been lowered to 115, to take out some weird wobbles introduced at the new gain and correction freq. of 15000. Surrounds cannot be moved or angled in.
> 
> John



What happened to the red measured curves? Your fronts and center looks good out to 15KHz; but, your surrounds and rears are beginning to drop off a bit after 10KHz. Your sub looks real good. Can I have them? Please with a big smile







?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19120947
> 
> 
> My sub thanks you, Bob, for the kind words
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have attached my new calculations based on your recommendations and they now have a lower room gain and sub cutoff has been lowered to 115, to take out some weird wobbles introduced at the new gain and correction freq. of 15000. Surrounds cannot be moved or angled in.
> 
> John



The change is subtle, but I think this tweak is an improvement. It will be interesting to learn if you hear any difference.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19121017
> 
> 
> Yes, I agree. My listening volume level sounded the same during my listening session.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What happened to the red measured curves? Your fronts and center looks good out to 15KHz; but, your surrounds and rears are beginning to drop off a bit after 10KHz. Your sub looks real good. Can I have them? Please with a big smile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?



Thanks ninja12, I have been tweaking for some time and I am almost at the end







or perhaps







. I'm using a sub 25 so with good positioning it is able to do it's stuff. Fronts are studio 100s and centre CC-690.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19121066
> 
> 
> The change is subtle, but I think this tweak is an improvement. It will be interesting to learn if you hear any difference.
> 
> --Bob



Testing now.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19121159
> 
> 
> I have been tweaking for some time and I am almost at the end
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or perhaps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> John



LOL!!!!!! I said the same thing about a year ago, and a year later, I'm still tweaking.







Will it ever end?


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19117501
> 
> 
> Have you, or can you post your curves?



The curves look good and I expected that to sound better but the 10kh sounded different than the 5khz. When a guy was talking a little loud, the sound was getting thin. I think even if curves look good, the sound will not be the same because ARC relocates the lower resources to the upper limit. It is like if you have a thick piece of cake and start eating it from the top and reduce the thickness. The size is still the same but the thickness is reduced.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19121236
> 
> 
> LOL!!!!!! I said the same thing about a year ago, and a year later, I'm still tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will it ever end?



Here is my last try of the day. I have put the sub cutoff back to 120 as that gave me the best LFE. Max freq. is now back at 13500 Hz as the higher ones introduced some bad wiggles and when at 15000 Hz., I was unable to discern any difference, so the attached charts are as good as it gets at this point. And ninja12, I suspect this really isn't the end but for today it is.







BTW, it sounds fantastic now, so hopefully some others who are having some difficulty will solve those issues soon.

John


----------



## ninja12

I decided to take the plunge and do a little tweaking too. I didn't want jayray to feel like he was at this alone. So, I really took the plunge and boosted my Max Freq. to 20KHz. So, please take a look and let me know what you think. I will try to do some listening pretty soon.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19122430
> 
> 
> I decided to take the plunge and do a little tweaking too. I didn't want jayray to feel like he was at this alone. So, I really took the plunge and boosted my Max Freq. to 20KHz. So, please take a look and let me know what you think. I will try to do some listening pretty soon.



I take it you haven't tried this yet. The charts look very good and your sub looks as good as it could be. It will be interesting to see if you get the shrillness some are experiencing. At this freq. let me know how much diff it sounds.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19122430
> 
> 
> I decided to take the plunge and do a little tweaking too. I didn't want jayray to feel like he was at this alone. So, I really took the plunge and boosted my Max Freq. to 20KHz. So, please take a look and let me know what you think. I will try to do some listening pretty soon.



The curves look fine. The only question is whether the Measured data is "real" between 10 and 20KHz.


I think it's pretty clear from the fronts that the data is real at least as high as 12KHz. And ARC is rolling off the Target above there anyway so it isn't getting too aggressive with correction.


Really the only way to tell is to give it a listen.


I think you are going to like what you have now.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks who are not getting pleasing results in the high frequencies, despite the charts looking good, just a reminder that mic height is crucial to good treble results. The mic should be pointing straight up at each location and the mic tip should be set at seated ear height. If your chair reclines set it the way you use it when listening and adjust the mic tip height accordingly.


Keep the mic tip away from reflecting/blocking surfaces like seat backs and walls. Raise the mic tip a few inches to clear a seat back or shift the mic about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from the seat back. Keep about 18 inches between the mic tip and any nearby walls. If that means the mic is not going to be precisely where your head is when seated then so be it.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19122734
> 
> 
> The curves look fine. The only question is whether the Measured data is "real" between 10 and 20KHz.
> 
> 
> I think it's pretty clear from the fronts that the data is real at least as high as 12KHz. And ARC is rolling off the Target above there anyway so it isn't getting too aggressive with correction.
> 
> 
> Really the only way to tell is to give it a listen.
> 
> 
> I think you are going to like what you have now.
> 
> --Bob



12KHz will be my next test.


----------



## diamar

Hi,


I have a D2v, and noticed recently that my TiVo Premiere seems to behave badly with it.


In particular, if TiVo's 480i mode is enabled (over HDMI), then switching to a progressive signal (like with the TiVo menu structure) and switching back to the 480i source causes the D2v's de-interlacing to stop working completely.


If I switch to another D2v input, then back to the TiVo without visiting a higher-res source, de-interlacing is fine again.


I suspect it's related to HDCP handshaking over HDMI because whenever it switches to the 480i input, I get delay and message about HDCP (from the TiVo) while it takes a while to sync up. If I don't enable 480i, but instead view 480i source using the TiVo's 480p output, I get no HDCP messages and the de-interlacer works fine. I always thought HDCP didn't matter when the source material was 480i, again leading me to believe that the TiVo is doing something screwy, especially since I seem to recall that 480i over HDMI is a non-standard signal.


I've sent a note to Anthem Tech Support, but they don't have TiVo's working there becuase it's Canada.


I've disabled 480i mode, which is sub-optimal from a quality perspective as I suspect TiVo's de-interlacing is nowhere near as good as the D2v. Has anyone else had the same problem? I might just switch to component connections for the TiVo to avoid this, but I like the all-digital path and minimal cables.


--dave


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diamar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I have a D2v, and noticed recently that my TiVo Premiere seems to behave badly with it.
> 
> 
> In particular, if TiVo's 480i mode is enabled (over HDMI), then switching to a progressive signal (like with the TiVo menu structure) and switching back to the 480i source causes the D2v's de-interlacing to stop working completely.
> 
> 
> If I switch to another D2v input, then back to the TiVo without visiting a higher-res source, de-interlacing is fine again.
> 
> 
> I suspect it's related to HDCP handshaking over HDMI because whenever it switches to the 480i input, I get delay and message about HDCP (from the TiVo) while it takes a while to sync up. If I don't enable 480i, but instead view 480i source using the TiVo's 480p output, I get no HDCP messages and the de-interlacer works fine. I always thought HDCP didn't matter when the source material was 480i, again leading me to believe that the TiVo is doing something screwy, especially since I seem to recall that 480i over HDMI is a non-standard signal.
> 
> 
> I've sent a note to Anthem Tech Support, but they don't have TiVo's working there becuase it's Canada.
> 
> 
> I've disabled 480i mode, which is sub-optimal from a quality perspective as I suspect TiVo's de-interlacing is nowhere near as good as the D2v. Has anyone else had the same problem? I might just switch to component connections for the TiVo to avoid this, but I like the all-digital path and minimal cables.
> 
> 
> --dave



I too have noticed some handshake issues if you will related to my projector ever since I installed 2.10. I have spoken with anthem about the issue and they have a suggested fix that I am going to try tomorrow. If that doesn't work then I'm thinking the new firmware may have causes a sync issue with my projector.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19121236
> 
> 
> LOL!!!!!! I said the same thing about a year ago, and a year later, I'm still tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will it ever end?



"I'll give up my remote when they pry it from my cold, dead fingers!"


Tom


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. I've placed my order for the D2v should arrive in the next 2-3 weeks (I'm in Australia) and have a question. I'm currently using the SVS ASEQ unit to Eq my Seaton Submersive and wanted to know will this intergrate well with ARC? So if I keep it in the chain does ARC pick it up and ignore it and not apply it's own EQ or will it just improve it even more? Sorry if this has been asked before just don't have the time (at work) to go through the whole thread. Thanks


----------



## MACCA350

Here are some Dynamic tests with Hancock and Iron Man:










As you can see the D2v's "DD/DTS Dynamics - Late Night" mode seems to have no effect on Hancock. When the OPPO is decoding the OPPO's DRC does have an effect.


I must say that with the OPPO decoding and DRC off or bitstreaming with the D2v dynamics off there seems to be a lack of dynamic range in Hancock and very little bass dynamics........must be just a poorly mixed track, it's been a while since I saw it last.


There is definitely something funny going on as the OPPO and D2v Disagree on Hancock but Agree on Iron Man??


EDIT: just noticed the time stamp on Iron Man is just a copy as I forgot to input the data, so just ignore it...........if you're wondering it was 35min


cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19123588
> 
> 
> Here are some Dynamic tests with Hancock and Iron Man:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the D2v's "DD/DTS Dynamics - Late Night" mode seems to have no effect on Hancock. When the OPPO is decoding the OPPO's DRC does have an effect.
> 
> 
> I must say that with the OPPO decoding and DRC off or bitstreaming with the D2v dynamics off there seems to be a lack of dynamic range in Hancock and very little bass dynamics........must be just a poorly mixed track, it's been a while since I saw it last.
> 
> 
> There is definitely something funny going on as the OPPO and D2v Disagree on Hancock but Agree on Iron Man??
> 
> 
> EDIT: just noticed the time stamp on Iron Man is just a copy as I forgot to input the data, so just ignore it...........if you're wondering it was 35min
> 
> 
> cheers



The original release of Iron Man had bogus dynamics meta-data. This resulted in anemic dynamics unless you turned off DRC in the decoder in many cases. They had to recall it and re-issue. This glitch was beaten to death here on AVS at the time. Do you happen to know which flavor you have, original or re-issue?


I don't know what the story might be with Hancock.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19123586
> 
> 
> Hi guys. I've placed my order for the D2v should arrive in the next 2-3 weeks (I'm in Australia) and have a question. I'm currently using the SVS ASEQ unit to Eq my Seaton Submersive and wanted to know will this intergrate well with ARC? So if I keep it in the chain does ARC pick it up and ignore it and not apply it's own EQ or will it just improve it even more? Sorry if this has been asked before just don't have the time (at work) to go through the whole thread. Thanks



I recommend you first try letting ARC do all the work under the theory that one less device doing processing is almost always better. I.e., disable or bypass that sub EQ and let ARC hear the raw sub output.


If for some reason you find you can't get a good solution from ARC alone, then by all means go ahead and put the sub EQ back in line. The idea is to set up the sub EQ as best you can and *THEN* Measure for ARC with that sub EQ setup engaged. ARC will pick up the improvements resulting from the sub EQ and will further refine from there.


My Velodyne DD series sub has a built in digital EQ and I've found that disabling that and letting ARC do all the work results in a clean solution. ARC really is able to handle a good deal of bass problems.


One place where a sub EQ might come in handy is when you are trying to merge more than one sub. The EQ may provide more controls for the 2 subs than are available on the subs themselves. The sub outputs of the D2v run in parallel (same signal) so you can't, for example, apply separate Phase adjustment to two subs. If the subs don't have their own Phase controls then an intervening sub EQ might be just the ticket.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diamar* /forum/post/19123162
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I have a D2v, and noticed recently that my TiVo Premiere seems to behave badly with it.
> 
> 
> In particular, if TiVo's 480i mode is enabled (over HDMI), then switching to a progressive signal (like with the TiVo menu structure) and switching back to the 480i source causes the D2v's de-interlacing to stop working completely.
> 
> 
> If I switch to another D2v input, then back to the TiVo without visiting a higher-res source, de-interlacing is fine again.
> 
> 
> I suspect it's related to HDCP handshaking over HDMI because whenever it switches to the 480i input, I get delay and message about HDCP (from the TiVo) while it takes a while to sync up. If I don't enable 480i, but instead view 480i source using the TiVo's 480p output, I get no HDCP messages and the de-interlacer works fine. I always thought HDCP didn't matter when the source material was 480i, again leading me to believe that the TiVo is doing something screwy, especially since I seem to recall that 480i over HDMI is a non-standard signal.
> 
> 
> I've sent a note to Anthem Tech Support, but they don't have TiVo's working there becuase it's Canada.
> 
> 
> I've disabled 480i mode, which is sub-optimal from a quality perspective as I suspect TiVo's de-interlacing is nowhere near as good as the D2v. Has anyone else had the same problem? I might just switch to component connections for the TiVo to avoid this, but I like the all-digital path and minimal cables.
> 
> 
> --dave



480i is actually quite hard for HDMI to handle. A raw 480i stream doesn't use enough video bandwidth to provide room for the the multi-channel audio to be embedded. So a hack is used where each pixel is sent twice, meaning a 480i image is sent using 480p bandwidth. That means the two sides of the cable have to be in agreement on this. (480p is actually the simplest signal for HDMI.)


The HDCP error is happening because the two sides of the cable are confused about what form of video is being passed, even though the copy protection isn't actually being enforced.


The source device drives the handshake, so the Tivo is failing to do something it should be doing here.


If there are Auto settings on the Tivo's output format that you can change to explicit settings (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4 format), that might be enough to let the Tivo get past this.


Failing that, keep in mind that there's really no reason not to use Component for video and Optical for audio for broadcast TV. There's no loss of quality.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19123666
> 
> 
> The original release of Iron Man had bogus dynamics meta-data. This resulted in anemic dynamics unless you turned off DRC in the decoder in many cases. They had to recall it and re-issue. This glitch was beaten to death here on AVS at the time. Do you happen to know which flavor you have, original or re-issue?
> 
> 
> I don't know what the story might be with Hancock.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, as I recall the issue only presents itself if your receiver defaults to Auto on start up(Marantz and Onkyo or something like that). Denon's would keep the Off setting once made by the user. To get around this the studio reisued the disc with the DRC flag changed from On(High IIRC) to Off so any receiver set to Auto by default or on power/standby cycle would be automatically set to Off instead.

Again, as you mentioned this was only an issue if your TrueHD DRC setting was set to Auto and not Off........since I'm manually making the setting changes between Off and On this issue should have no impact, and as you can see form the readings both the OPPO and D2v DRC settings are having the correct impact.


The Iron Man version I have is the US release, ISBN 1415743401


Yes the Hancock is a strange one. I wonder if the DD/DTS Dynamics setting is simply switching from Off to Auto for TrueHD tracks in which case the DRC level depends on what is set in the tracks metadata.


This could explain why the Iron Man is being compressed because the Auto setting for my disc is set to Hi DRC IIRC. If Hancock's metadata says the Auto is set to Off then this would mean no difference between an Off and Auto setting in the processor. This could be where the OPPO and D2v differ as the OPPO has an Auto selection for TrueHD tracks(as did the Denon 3808) but the D2v does not.


cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My recollection was that the problem version of Iron Man was a 2 disc set where the 2 discs had the same color label. The corrected re-release of the feature disc used a different color label for the feature.


Anyway, the real issue is Hancock in this test. Your explanation could cover it I think.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My recollection was that the problem version of Iron Man was a 2 disc set where the 2 discs had the same color label. The corrected re-release of the feature disc used a different color label for the feature.
> 
> 
> Anyway, the real issue is Hancock in this test. Your explanation could cover it I think.
> 
> --Bob



I'm not sure what the differences were as I never had a problem due to the way the Denon's settings don't change. But I'm pretty sure I have one of the first discs which had the issue.........both discs are an identical grey.


Cheers


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19119669
> 
> 
> Is this normally performed in the decoding stage in digital or in the volume control post dac?



The THX 4 dB gain shift for Dolby signals is applied after the DAC, otherwise it could clip signals with dialnorm values between -28 and -31.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19123666
> 
> 
> The original release of Iron Man had bogus dynamics meta-data. This resulted in anemic dynamics unless you turned off DRC in the decoder in many cases.



The error was simply that the DRC preference flag for the 5.1 presentation was set to On by mistake.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19123806
> 
> 
> To get around this the studio reissued the disc with the DRC flag changed from On (High IIRC) to Off so any receiver set to Auto by default or on power/standby cycle would be automatically set to Off instead.



It's just on or off in the disc, there's no additional flags like high or low.



> Quote:
> Yes the Hancock is a strange one. I wonder if the DD/DTS Dynamics setting is simply switching from Off to Auto for TrueHD tracks in which case the DRC level depends on what is set in the tracks metadata.
> 
> 
> This could explain why the Iron Man is being compressed



I thought your chart showed that Iron Man bitstream with DRC off was 99.1 dB, and on was 93.6. So the switch is apparently able to force DRC off for an On-flagged disc, no?



> Quote:
> If Hancock's metadata says the Auto is set to Off then this would mean no difference between an Off and Auto setting in the processor.



Just to clarify, there is no Auto setting for the disc metadata. Just On/Off. The decoders have On/Off/Auto, or just On/Off.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The THX 4 dB gain shift for Dolby signals is applied after the DAC, otherwise it could clip signals with dialnorm values between -28 and -31.



Right, so again it's up to the processors software to make the correct DialNorm adjustment based on the signals metadata(and, in the case of THX certified products, the THX +4 adjustment).

I assumed this was the case, which puts the possible TrueHD 7.1(would need to go through the collection to find more for conformation) DialNorm issue(ie applying the Dolby spec -4dB but not the THX spec +4dB, and iirc no DN displayed) in the hands of the Anthem software.


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The error was simply that the DRC preference flag for the 5.1 presentation was set to On by mistake.
> 
> 
> It's just on or off in the disc, there's no additional flags like high or low.
> 
> 
> Just to clarify, there is no Auto setting for the disc metadata. Just On/Off. The decoders have On/Off/Auto, or just On/Off.



Right, so if the decoder is set to Auto then the disc can set DRC on or off automatically?

How does the High/Medium/Low etc in the decoder affect this? Or is it simply redundant for TrueHD tracks? Or is it a DRC scaling function within the decoder?



> Quote:
> I thought your chart showed that Iron Man bitstream with DRC off was 99.1 dB, and on was 93.6. So the switch is apparently able to force DRC off for an On-flagged disc, no?



Yes. But, but I think the D2v setting is switching the decoder between Off and Auto instead of between Off and On. In the case of Iron Man the disc metadata has DRC set to On so if the decoder is set to Auto then it will effectively be set to On. So as far as Iron Man is concerned it would appear to work correctly even though it isn't quite right.


The problem arrises with Hancock, which it seems has the DRC metadata set to Off. If we assume the D2v is switching the decoder between Off and Auto then this would explain why the result is no DRC in either mode.

Yet the Oppo is switching between Off and On(it has the separate Auto setting which is missing in the D2v menu) which we can see by the result of DRC when it is set to on.


If both were switching correctly we would have similar results for both discs. Yet the D2v is not applying DRC to Hancock. The only difference I can deduce is in the DRC metadata which would suggest the incorrect switching in the D2v is going to Auto and not On.


Cheers


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19123752
> 
> 
> 480i is actually quite hard for HDMI to handle. A raw 480i stream doesn't use enough video bandwidth to provide room for the the multi-channel audio to be embedded. So a hack is used where each pixel is sent twice, meaning a 480i image is sent using 480p bandwidth. That means the two sides of the cable have to be in agreement on this. (480p is actually the simplest signal for HDMI.)............
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I set my Oppo 83 output to "Direct", letting the D2v do all the work.


Does that mean this is not ideal for DVDs since it will be passing 480i video over HDMI connection?


If so, would it help if I send DVD audio separately over digital coaxial instead?


I know the Oppo does as good a job in deinterlacing and upscaling as the D2v, but I was saving myself the hassle of fiddling around with another bunch of setups.


Ben


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19123586
> 
> 
> Hi guys. I've placed my order for the D2v should arrive in the next 2-3 weeks (I'm in Australia) and have a question. I'm currently using the SVS ASEQ unit to Eq my Seaton Submersive and wanted to know will this intergrate well with ARC? So if I keep it in the chain does ARC pick it up and ignore it and not apply it's own EQ or will it just improve it even more? Sorry if this has been asked before just don't have the time (at work) to go through the whole thread. Thanks



I used the ASEQ with ARC and it really helped in my situation. I had two dissimilar subs though. With a single sub, I would follow Bob's advice and just let ARC take care of it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I set my Oppo 83 output to "Direct", letting the D2v do all the work.
> 
> 
> Does that mean this is not ideal for DVDs since it will be passing 480i video over HDMI connection?
> 
> 
> If so, would it help if I send DVD audio separately over digital coaxial instead?
> 
> 
> I know the Oppo does as good a job in deinterlacing and upscaling as the D2v, but I was saving myself the hassle of fiddling around with another bunch of setups.
> 
> 
> Ben



No, the Oppo and the D2v do just fine with 480i over HDMI. The problem is with the handshake from his TiVo. The TiVo is doing something weird when it switches in and out of 480p from 480i for its menus.


The reason I recommend using 1080p from the Oppo is because it let's you use Oppo features which are bypassed in Direct mode such as Zoom.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19124599
> 
> 
> No, the Oppo and the D2v do just fine with 480i over HDMI. The problem is with the handshake from his TiVo. The TiVo is doing something weird when it switches in and out of 480p from 480i for its menus.
> 
> 
> The reason I recommend using 1080p from the Oppo is because it let's you use Oppo features which are bypassed in Direct mode such as Zoom.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for clarifying, Bob. Yes, I understand the reason for not using "Direct" output from the Oppo. Guess I am just too lazy to mess around with its features, for now anyway.


Ben


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guys. I've placed my order for the D2v should arrive in the next 2-3 weeks (I'm in Australia) and have a question. I'm currently using the SVS ASEQ unit to Eq my Seaton Submersive and wanted to know will this intergrate well with ARC? So if I keep it in the chain does ARC pick it up and ignore it and not apply it's own EQ or will it just improve it even more? Sorry if this has been asked before just don't have the time (at work) to go through the whole thread. Thanks



It will work fine. Set up the sub using the ASQ. This as you know will give you a nice flat response for it. ARC will then use that nice flat response and apply it's magic. I do this with a couple of SVS PB13 Ultras & it gives a better overall sound than using ARC alone.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19124366
> 
> 
> Right, so if the decoder is set to Auto then the disc can set DRC on or off automatically?



Yes, the disc's preference will take control in Auto.



> Quote:
> How does the High/Medium/Low etc in the decoder affect this? Or is it simply redundant for TrueHD tracks? Or is it a DRC scaling function within the decoder?



DRC scaling is done in the codec decoding--same place it is applied. In DD it is done before the inverse FFT (frequency domain) while in TrueHD is is done after lossless decoding is completed. It just alters the bitstream's DRC coefficients by a constant scale factor between 0.0 to 1.0. Normally it is left at 1.0.



> Quote:
> Yes. But, but I think the D2v setting is switching the decoder between Off and Auto instead of between Off and On. In the case of Iron Man the disc metadata has DRC set to On so if the decoder is set to Auto then it will effectively be set to On. So as far as Iron Man is concerned it would appear to work correctly even though it isn't quite right.
> 
> 
> The problem arrises with Hancock, which it seems has the DRC metadata set to Off. If we assume the D2v is switching the decoder between Off and Auto then this would explain why the result is no DRC in either mode.
> 
> Yet the Oppo is switching between Off and On(it has the separate Auto setting which is missing in the D2v menu) which we can see by the result of DRC when it is set to on.
> 
> 
> If both were switching correctly we would have similar results for both discs. Yet the D2v is not applying DRC to Hancock. The only difference I can deduce is in the DRC metadata which would suggest the incorrect switching in the D2v is going to Auto and not On.



Thanks much for restating. Understood. It sometimes takes me two shots to absorb what was right there in front of me the whole time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Factory default for DRC in the Oppo is Auto. I suggest setting it to Off.


Factory default for Dynamics in the D2v is "Normal", which is apparently the same as Off. I suggest leaving it that way.


It looks like both "Reduced" and "Late Night" are implemented as Auto (use the disc's choice), rather than On. Since the user is making an explicit choice to apply one of those, it seems to me that On would be better for both of them.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

After all my testing I have finally settled on, now don't throw anything at me for this but it is only what ARC settled on without any tweaking. I setup another source for music which was set to my previous settings. Going back and forth it was hard to tell which sounded better although I did like what I was hearing at the 5000 Hz max.freq. Detail, high freq, low end all sounded excellent. I'm going to use this for awhile and based on my testing there is no good reason to change this.

John


----------



## Texas steve

Ahh you have the fatal wild bird anomaly called "tweak,tweak,tweak"!! Found in humans its called "Tweak-itis"!!!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19127056
> 
> 
> After all my testing I have finally settled on, now don't throw anything at me for this but it is only what ARC settled on without any tweaking. I setup another source for music which was set to my previous settings. Going back and forth it was hard to tell which sounded better although I did like what I was hearing at the 5000 Hz max.freq. Detail, high freq, low end all sounded excellent. I'm going to use this for awhile and based on my testing there is no good reason to change this.
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19127084
> 
> 
> Ahh you have the fatal wild bird anomaly called "tweak,tweak,tweak"!! Found in humans its called "Tweak-itis"!!!!



Well to prevent further tweaking I decided to do what the engineers and Nick have been telling us. Now it may not work for everyone but it did for me. The charts help to guide us but the true test is listening. This has been said by Bob and Nick for some time so I thougt I'd try it and low and behold it sounds terrific. I may never post again









ya, right,

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19127056
> 
> 
> After all my testing I have finally settled on, now don't throw anything at me for this but it is only what ARC settled on without any tweaking. I setup another source for music which was set to my previous settings. Going back and forth it was hard to tell which sounded better although I did like what I was hearing at the 5000 Hz max.freq. Detail, high freq, low end all sounded excellent. I'm going to use this for awhile and based on my testing there is no good reason to change this.
> 
> John



wait a minute, i thought you were done tweaking.







i guess that's why Anthem doesn't recommend going above 5KHz. I set my max freq. to 20KHz. However, it looks like ARC is running out of resources after 10KHz, and it's not applying much correction after 10KHz. I did do some listening for a while last night with the 20KHz, and it sounded pretty good. I think I will set max freq. to 10KHz or maybe even 5KHz since ARC is not correcting too much after 10KHz. However, I didn't hear the shrillness in my setup and room. I'm not saying that it doesn't exist; but, I didn't hear it in my setup and room, and we all know that every setup and room are different.


----------



## Texas steve

"Big bad John" - me dont believe you!!

















> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19127140
> 
> 
> I may never post again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ya, right,
> 
> John


----------



## ninja12

I just had a hmmmmmm... moment. I was wondering how ARC matches up to a professional audio calibration. If a professional audio calibration would be better, then how much better? Based on what I am hearing from ARC, I can't imagine that a professional audio calibration would be too much or even better than what ARC is producing. I could be completely wrong with my previous statement. So, if anyone who has ARC and had a professional audio calibration done, how does ARC stack up against the professional audio calibration? Or, if you have an opinion, let's hear that too.


----------



## JimP

When you run ARC, what does it sound like?


Is it similar to the Audyssey blips or more like the Yamaha sweeps?


----------



## Texas steve









I think your baiting John (JAYRAY) to POST AGAIN!!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19127491
> 
> 
> I just had a hmmmmmm... moment. I was wondering how ARC matches up to a professional audio calibration. If a professional audio calibration would be better, then how much better? Based on what I am hearing from ARC, I can't imagine that a professional audio calibration would be too much or even better than what ARC is producing. I could be completely wrong with my previous statement. So, if anyone who has ARC and had a professional audio calibration done, how does ARC stack up against the professional audio calibration? Or, if you have an opinion, let's hear that too.


----------



## Texas steve

Havent heard either, but the results are fablous! You can read many reviews on line that do compare.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/19127524
> 
> 
> When you run ARC, what does it sound like?
> 
> 
> Is it similar to the Audyssey blips or more like the Yamaha sweeps?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/19127524
> 
> 
> When you run ARC, what does it sound like?
> 
> 
> Is it similar to the Audyssey blips or more like the Yamaha sweeps?



It is a full sweep from below 20 Hz to 20kHz. I have no idea where audessey got their tone from but it just sounds like snapping. I haven't heard Yamaha so no idea. ARC sounds the way you'd expect if you were trying to test speakers through the listening freq.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19127606
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think your baiting John (JAYRAY) to POST AGAIN!!!



It worked







Actually someone, I think the Bogg, has had one done and he claims it was worth doing along with ARC. I think he did room treatments as well as tests to position speakers etc. Not sure though. Perhaps he'll see this and post. From my results, it does seem like the law of deminishing returns would come into play.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In audio, the law of diminishing wallet is more commonly the limiting factor.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19127683
> 
> 
> In audio, the law of diminishing wallet is more commonly the limiting factor.
> 
> --Bob



Take a look at some of the other threads and I would argue many even ignore that.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well the folks in the over $20K forum here are certainly testing the limits!

--Bob


----------



## hodeyp

Hi - I am running my D2v in a 5.1 setup.


When listening to 2 channel sources and PLIIx Movie mode I only get sound out of my centre speaker - is this right? When I look at the status pages it shows all speakers as active but all sound is coming out of centre speaker only.


When using any of the other surround formats (AnthemLogic-Cinema, NEO:6 Cinema etc) I get full surround.


Is this right?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hodeyp* /forum/post/19128353
> 
> 
> Hi - I am running my D2v in a 5.1 setup.
> 
> 
> When listening to 2 channel sources and PLIIx Movie mode I only get sound out of my centre speaker - is this right? When I look at the status pages it shows all speakers as active but all sound is coming out of centre speaker only.
> 
> 
> When using any of the other surround formats (AnthemLogic-Cinema, NEO:6 Cinema etc) I get full surround.
> 
> 
> Is this right?



That would only be correct if the 2-ch source were mono. Here's an easy test. Connect an analog source to only the left input jack. The sound should all come from the L speaker with PLIIx. If it comes out the center, something's broken.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19127491
> 
> 
> I just had a hmmmmmm... moment. I was wondering how ARC matches up to a professional audio calibration. If a professional audio calibration would be better, then how much better? Based on what I am hearing from ARC, I can't imagine that a professional audio calibration would be too much or even better than what ARC is producing. I could be completely wrong with my previous statement. So, if anyone who has ARC and had a professional audio calibration done, how does ARC stack up against the professional audio calibration? Or, if you have an opinion, let's hear that too.



Adding to my hmmmmmmm.... does anyone one what type of eq ARC implements? Is it a parametric eq? I know we can't see what's going on under the covers; but, I'm curious.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nope. It's a secret.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19128558
> 
> 
> Nope. It's a secret.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Earlier i had asked if you knew whether ARC does phase compensation in addition to the frequency changes it makes. Audessy and others make claim in their literature about the phase corrections they make but Anthem is silent on this issue. What does ARC do as far as signal phase is concerned?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19128656
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Earlier i had asked if you knew whether ARC does phase compensation in addition to the frequency changes it makes. Audessy and others make claim in their literature about the phase corrections they make but Anthem is silent on this issue. What does ARC do as far as signal phase is concerned?



Arc doesn't do anything about phase compensation. It only listens to one speaker at a time.


Credit to Bob who has mentioned this a few times.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19128669
> 
> 
> Arc doesn't do anything about phase compensation. It only listens to one speaker at a time.



But when you pass a signal through a digital filter, which ARC basically is, you change the phase response of the signal. The kind of digital filter could have a linear response (good for audio) such as a standard FIR filter or a non-linear phase response (bad for audio), such as IIR filter and many others.


Hence my question still stands...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from Magic.


ARC can't set subwoofer Polarity/Phase, nor can it detect main speakers mistakenly wired with incorrect Polarity, because it only listens to one speaker at a time.


And yet its corrected audio results, per speaker, appear to be in proper phase.


Magic.


------------------------


ARC *COULD* set speaker distances, but they have chosen not to do so since the results are inherently inaccurate.


Thus you have to set speaker distances yourself, set sub Polarity/Phase yourself, and confirm main speaker wiring polarity yourself.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19127491
> 
> 
> I just had a hmmmmmm... moment. I was wondering how ARC matches up to a professional audio calibration. If a professional audio calibration would be better, then how much better? Based on what I am hearing from ARC, I can't imagine that a professional audio calibration would be too much or even better than what ARC is producing. I could be completely wrong with my previous statement. So, if anyone who has ARC and had a professional audio calibration done, how does ARC stack up against the professional audio calibration? Or, if you have an opinion, let's hear that too.



As John (Jayray) had indicated, it was me that recently posted about my experience with a professional audio calibration. Just to recap, we discovered that there were some things that the ARC did well and some things that made us shake our heads a little (like the obvious peak that wasn't being corrected around 140hz despite running ARC a couple of times. It wasn't a resource issue as I don't run ARC above 5khz, and in fact prefer it set at 2khz. I found that when it corrected the subtle "dip" around 2 to 5khz it actually made things sound way too aggressive and harsh)


We did find an ARC error - the crossed over bass to the sub from any channel was way down in level (about 6-8db) and this was consistent from multiple tests and reruns of ARC. I haven't had a chance to send my findings off to Nick, but I just boosted the sub level by 6db. It measures, and sounds, way better that way.


Let me just say that ARC is the best thing you can do for your system for 400bucks. But let me also say that audio calibration improved things beyond what ARC alone could do. I have 4 JL F113s. I placed them "sensibly" and adjusted the phase of each according to various methods including the one Bob P kindly posted. My bass response measured quite well in my dedicated room, as expected with 4 subs (which really smooths the response at multiple seating positions). It sounded pretty good too, and I was happy but not "ecstatic". Keep in mind I'm an "audiophile" and a fanatic, like many of you are. My room was built from the ground up as a dedicated space (the link is in my sig) with pretty good gear.


I'd say that I was at 60-65% of "happy" with the combo of equipment, room, and ARC. Like I said, I'm fussy. The audio calibration result moved the front 2 subs only and not by much (as well as the main speakers). Measurably there wasn't all that much difference but audibly - un-friggin-believable bass and imaging and "realism". I'd say it takes me to about 90% of "nirvana" with 2 channel, and 95% with movies which is higher than almost any other system I've ever heard, and I've heard a lot! ARC will massively improve what most people would be able to do but a pro calibration was able to really make my system shine (with a fresh ARC calibration after repositioning the mains and the front 2 subs of course).


Does that make an audio calibration worth the money? To me it does. Not bragging but I've got a lot of money tied up in the gear and it just makes sense to eke out as much from it as is possible, until you can believe that you are getting all that your system is capable of. My calibrator thinks he could get slightly better measured results with the QSC 8 channel dsp unit, which he has a lot of experience with, but he says the result we got was certainly quite good (once we had corrected the level error I mentioned. I don't know if that's just something up with my system or a problem with ARC that just hasn't been exposed).


Hope that helps, and feel free to PM me or post any relevant questions.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The current "test" ARC I think fixes the low bass problem you found.

--Bob


----------



## hodeyp

thanks, will give that a go


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19128739
> 
> 
> Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from Magic.
> 
> 
> ARC can't set subwoofer Polarity/Phase, nor can it detect main speakers mistakenly wired with incorrect Polarity, because it only listens to one speaker at a time.
> 
> 
> And yet its corrected audio results, per speaker, appear to be in proper phase.
> 
> 
> Magic.
> 
> 
> ------------------------
> 
> 
> ARC *COULD* set speaker distances, but they have chosen not to do so since the results are inherently inaccurate.
> 
> 
> Thus you have to set speaker distances yourself, set sub Polarity/Phase yourself, and confirm main speaker wiring polarity yourself.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Maybe I'll restate my question. I am aware ARC doesn't correct for subwoofer phase or individual speaker phase. What I was asking was whether its DSP uses linear or non-linear phase filters. It known that each frequency that passes through a digital filter has a different delay through that said filter. Depending on the kind of filter used, this delay could be linear, whoch is good or non-linear which is bad for audio. Its this phase (non)-linearity that I'm concerned about and not the subwoofer /speaker phase compensation alluded to earlier.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19128891
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Maybe I'll restate my question. I am aware ARC doesn't correct for subwoofer phase or individual speaker phase. What I was asking was whether its DSP uses linear or non-linear phase filters. It known that each frequency that passes through a digital filter has a different delay through that said filter. Depending on the kind of filter used, this delay could be linear, whoch is good or non-linear which is bad for audio. Its this phase (non)-linearity that I'm concerned about and not the subwoofer /speaker phase compensation alluded to earlier.



Anthem has been been consistently tight-lipped about what's under the covers in ARC.


Your guess is as good as mine.

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk

Looking to replace my Pio BD5FD and Pio DV-58AV. System is:


conrad johnson ct-6 stereo pre

Musical Surroundings phono stage

rega p5 TT with ext PS, RB9 tone arm and Benz Micro Glider cart

Von Schweikert VR-4SR fronts biamped with:

Rogue Audio MB-150 driving the M and T and

B&K Ref 200.7 driving the bass module, the VSA Visiun CC and my Mirage surrounds.

JL Audio fathom 113


Anthem Statement D2v PrePro with the front 2 channels going bypass to the conrad johnson via the HT bypass.

Panny PT-E 3000 PJ

Stewart Firehawk screen


I primarily listen to vinyl especially the new 45s that are comming out from Acoustic Sounds, but do have a large number of SACD and DVD-A.


can anyone share their experiences with the Oppo blu ray used with the D2v? Is the SE or Nuforce ed really worth the extra $$? I would glady spend the extra cash because the audio is that important to me.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/19128741
> 
> 
> As John (Jayray) had indicated, it was me that recently posted about my experience with a professional audio calibration. Just to recap, we discovered that there were some things that the ARC did well and some things that made us shake our heads a little (like the obvious peak that wasn't being corrected around 140hz despite running ARC a couple of times. It wasn't a resource issue as I don't run ARC above 5khz, and in fact prefer it set at 2khz. I found that when it corrected the subtle "dip" around 2 to 5khz it actually made things sound way too aggressive and harsh)
> 
> 
> We did find an ARC error - the crossed over bass to the sub from any channel was way down in level (about 6-8db) and this was consistent from multiple tests and reruns of ARC. I haven't had a chance to send my findings off to Nick, but I just boosted the sub level by 6db. It measures, and sounds, way better that way.
> 
> 
> Let me just say that ARC is the best thing you can do for your system for 400bucks. But let me also say that audio calibration improved things beyond what ARC alone could do. I have 4 JL F113s. I placed them "sensibly" and adjusted the phase of each according to various methods including the one Bob P kindly posted. My bass response measured quite well in my dedicated room, as expected with 4 subs (which really smooths the response at multiple seating positions). It sounded pretty good too, and I was happy but not "ecstatic". Keep in mind I'm an "audiophile" and a fanatic, like many of you are. My room was built from the ground up as a dedicated space (the link is in my sig) with pretty good gear.
> 
> 
> I'd say that I was at 60-65% of "happy" with the combo of equipment, room, and ARC. Like I said, I'm fussy. The audio calibration result moved the front 2 subs only and not by much (as well as the main speakers). Measurably there wasn't all that much difference but audibly - un-friggin-believable bass and imaging and "realism". I'd say it takes me to about 90% of "nirvana" with 2 channel, and 95% with movies which is higher than almost any other system I've ever heard, and I've heard a lot! ARC will massively improve what most people would be able to do but a pro calibration was able to really make my system shine (with a fresh ARC calibration after repositioning the mains and the front 2 subs of course).
> 
> 
> Does that make an audio calibration worth the money? To me it does. Not bragging but I've got a lot of money tied up in the gear and it just makes sense to eke out as much from it as is possible, until you can believe that you are getting all that your system is capable of. My calibrator thinks he could get slightly better measured results with the QSC 8 channel dsp unit, which he has a lot of experience with, but he says the result we got was certainly quite good (once we had corrected the level error I mentioned. I don't know if that's just something up with my system or a problem with ARC that just hasn't been exposed).
> 
> 
> Hope that helps, and feel free to PM me or post any relevant questions.



Thanks for sharing your experience, and I checked out your sig. Your setup is really nice. Job well done. So ARC got you 60 to 65% of happiness. I'm sure that was with the previous version of ARC. With the latest version of ARC, the low end has been enhanced which means it would probably give you 75% of happiness now. This tells me that ARC stacks up pretty darn good to a professional audio calibration. I can tell you that the beta version 2.4.16 sounds really good, and the LFE is really full and hits really good. Anyway, I appreciate you sharing your experience.


----------



## JimP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19127613
> 
> 
> It is a full sweep from below 20 Hz to 20kHz. I have no idea where audessey got their tone from but it just sounds like snapping. I haven't heard Yamaha so no idea. ARC sounds the way you'd expect if you were trying to test speakers through the listening freq.
> 
> John



Thanks John,


I've never been that convinced that Audyssey's blips was equalizing anything. Good to know that ARC is doing sweeps. At least, that makes sense.


Another question I have is that I've read bits and pieces on this thread about reducing the top frequency to 5K htz due to (not sure about this) lack of resources? Could someone please elaborate on this? Thanks.


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19127705
> 
> 
> Well the folks in the over $20K forum here are certainly testing the limits!
> 
> --Bob



That forum is a riot-look at the "Help over $20k plus guys" link.


I had an audio engineer come out after setting up ARC with my D2v and it was worth the cost. He set my speakers for maximum benefit- I have Martin Logan electrostats (Vantages) so this was important. He "tweaked" what ARC did some, but overall said it was the best room equalization he had ever worked with.


Probably something many of you could do on your own, but I am still learning about great audio so it helped me.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19130132
> 
> 
> That forum is a riot-look at the "Help over $20k plus guys" link.
> 
> 
> I had an audio engineer come out after setting up ARC with my D2v and it was worth the cost. He set my speakers for maximum benefit- I have Martin Logan electrostats (Vantages) so this was important. He "tweaked" what ARC did some, but overall said it was the best room equalization he had ever worked with.
> 
> 
> Probably something many of you could do on your own, but I am still learning about great audio so it helped me.



Consistent with what many are saying now that a lot of people have ARC.

John


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19130337
> 
> 
> Consistent with what many are saying now that a lot of people have ARC.
> 
> John



I am sure glad I listened to your recommendation when I asked about the whether the D2v was worth the cost over the AVM 50v. The D2v is pretty amazing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/19129731
> 
> 
> Thanks John,
> 
> 
> I've never been that convinced that Audyssey's blips was equalizing anything. Good to know that ARC is doing sweeps. At least, that makes sense.
> 
> 
> Another question I have is that I've read bits and pieces on this thread about reducing the top frequency to 5K htz due to (not sure about this) lack of resources? Could someone please elaborate on this? Thanks.



Anthem's default for ARC is to correct only up to 5KHz. The *MAIN* reason for this is that getting quality Measured data in treble is tricky. What the mic hears is subject to all sorts of things including details of speaker pointing, mic placement, and even room humidity.


However, many of us believe we do have good Measured data above 5KHz, and ARC gives you the option of raising Max EQ Frequency. When you do that, ARC reassigns resources to apply the correction up there. Usually that works without untoward consequences, but some folks have found that applying correction higher up means they get poorer Calculated curves lower down -- more ripples and residual error.


Now some of that is undoubtedly due to simply mapping the correction tools across the wider frequency, but some of it appears to be lack of correction resources. That is, if a lot of correction is needed lower down, telling ARC to do work higher up means the lower frequencies can't be fully corrected.


The workaround of course is to pull back Max EQ Frequency to a smaller value. Often just a few KHz change is enough for everything to snap back in to full correction.


Folks who have setups that DON'T need a lot of correction lower down are more likely to have no problems like this when they raise Max EQ Frequency.


---------------------------------------------


ETA: It appears Anthem may have changed the way they allocate resources for the latest "test" ARC. If ARC can't do the full frequency range of correction you have asked for, it appears this new version may still give priority to the lower frequencies -- meaning you may not see as much correction higher up as you thought you might get. But we'll need to see more results charts from more posters before that gets nailed down. Also keep in mind that you can often change the amount of correction ARC needs to do lower down by judicious tweaking of Room Gain and the cutoff/crossover frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19127056
> 
> 
> After all my testing I have finally settled on, now don't throw anything at me for this but it is only what ARC settled on without any tweaking. I setup another source for music which was set to my previous settings. Going back and forth it was hard to tell which sounded better although I did like what I was hearing at the 5000 Hz max.freq. Detail, high freq, low end all sounded excellent. I'm going to use this for awhile and based on my testing there is no good reason to change this.
> 
> John



Did you return to the ENTIRE set of choices ARC chose for you automatically or did you just return Max EQ Frequency to 5KHz while leaving other cutoff and Room Gain tweaking in place?


If you don't recall, just write protect or make a copy of the file, open it up, go into Targets and do an Auto Detect to reset all the Targets to ARC's choices so you can compare.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/19129460
> 
> 
> Looking to replace my Pio BD5FD and Pio DV-58AV. System is:
> 
> 
> conrad johnson ct-6 stereo pre
> 
> Musical Surroundings phono stage
> 
> rega p5 TT with ext PS, RB9 tone arm and Benz Micro Glider cart
> 
> Von Schweikert VR-4SR fronts biamped with:
> 
> Rogue Audio MB-150 driving the M and T and
> 
> B&K Ref 200.7 driving the bass module, the VSA Visiun CC and my Mirage surrounds.
> 
> JL Audio fathom 113
> 
> 
> Anthem Statement D2v PrePro with the front 2 channels going bypass to the conrad johnson via the HT bypass.
> 
> Panny PT-E 3000 PJ
> 
> Stewart Firehawk screen
> 
> 
> I primarily listen to vinyl especially the new 45s that are comming out from Acoustic Sounds, but do have a large number of SACD and DVD-A.
> 
> 
> can anyone share their experiences with the Oppo blu ray used with the D2v? Is the SE or Nuforce ed really worth the extra $$? I would glady spend the extra cash because the audio is that important to me.



Personally I use HDMI Audio from the standard Oppo BDP-83 and I'm delighted with the music results.


I think you will find it difficult to sort through the personal opinions from folks who've decided to use analog instead. It's hard to get a handle on what's important to each listener, and what the biases are. Some folks really do feel they get better results using analog.


But keep in mind that if you want to use ARC with analog audio input, you must let the D2v redigitize that input for processing. After which it will be converted back to analog by the D2v's DACs for output to the amps. So if you use ARC you won't JUST be hearing the output of the better analog stage in the 83SE or a version modded from that.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19130678
> 
> 
> Did you return to the ENTIRE set of choices ARC chose for you automatically or did you just return Max EQ Frequency to 5KHz while leaving other cutoff and Room Gain tweaking in place?
> 
> 
> If you don't recall, just write protect or make a copy of the file, open it up, go into Targets and do an Auto Detect to reset all the Targets to ARC's choices so you can compare.
> 
> --Bob



I returned to the ENTIRE set of choices ARC chose. Nick recommended this after speaking to him and I can't say it doesn't sound great. I was worried about the LFE after lowering the cutoff back to 105 from 120. The LFE is still pounding and highs don't appear to have lost anything. Interesting.

John


----------



## Texas steve

So in the end it sounds like what Bob has said many times in his posts "trust ARC"!!! But Bob, we need to feed our "tweak-itis" fever some how!!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19130801
> 
> 
> I returned to the ENTIRE set of choices ARC chose. Nick recommended this after speaking to him and I can't say it doesn't sound great. I was worried about the LFE after lowering the cutoff back to 105 from 120. The LFE is still pounding and highs don't appear to have lost anything. Interesting.
> 
> John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19130801
> 
> 
> I returned to the ENTIRE set of choices ARC chose. Nick recommended this after speaking to him and I can't say it doesn't sound great. I was worried about the LFE after lowering the cutoff back to 105 from 120. The LFE is still pounding and highs don't appear to have lost anything. Interesting.
> 
> John



LFE is basically all gone by 120Hz, so the difference between 105 and 120 is minimal. For movies, the most important range for LFE is 45-65Hz. That's where the bulk of the LFE volume is found. The second most important is the thuds well below 30Hz that you feel rather than hear. For Music, it really depends on how the music mixer chose to use LFE -- if at all.


For bass steering from the mains, the most important range is of course the octave below the crossover -- i.e., from the crossover frequency down to 1/2 of the crossover frequency. But your mains all crossover fairly low as I recall so again the 105 vs 120Hz change means nothing. For movies the Center crossover is the crucial one because that's where bass content is found since the movie mixer can't assume you'll have a sub. For music, the LF/RF crossover is the crucial one.


Your speakers really don't need any serious correction above 5KHz as I recall, so I'm not surprised you don't hear a difference up there.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19130647
> 
> 
> Anthem's default for ARC is to correct only up to 5KHz. The *MAIN* reason for this is that getting quality Measured data in treble is tricky. What the mic hears is subject to all sorts of things including details of speaker pointing, mic placement, and even room humidity.
> 
> 
> However, many of us believe we do have good Measured data above 5KHz, and ARC gives you the option of raising Max EQ Frequency. When you do that, ARC reassigns resources to apply the correction up there. Usually that works without untoward consequences, but some folks have found that applying correction higher up means they get poorer Calculated curves lower down -- more ripples and residual error.
> 
> 
> Now some of that is undoubtedly due to simply mapping the correction tools across the wider frequency, but some of it appears to be lack of correction resources. That is, if a lot of correction is needed lower down, telling ARC to do work higher up means the lower frequencies can't be fully corrected.
> 
> 
> The workaround of course is to pull back Max EQ Frequency to a smaller value. Often just a few KHz change is enough for everything to snap back in to full correction.
> 
> 
> Folks who have setups that DON'T need a lot of correction lower down are more likely to have no problems like this when they raise Max EQ Frequency.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: It appears Anthem may have changed the way they allocate resources for the latest "test" ARC. If ARC can't do the full frequency range of correction you have asked for, it appears this new version may still give priority to the lower frequencies -- meaning you may not see as much correction higher up as you thought you might get. But we'll need to see more results charts from more posters before that gets nailed down. Also keep in mind that you can often change the amount of correction ARC needs to do lower down by judicious tweaking of Room Gain and the cutoff/crossover frequencies.
> 
> --Bob



Bob


It is interesting that a group of us, all with B&W speakers, have noticed that the ARC microphone measures a severe dropoff in frequency response above 10K, and are sticking to using the ARC below 5K. So either there is some particular reason why our ARC setups are incapable of accurate treble measurements, or the B&W tweeter is really poor.


I am assuming it is the first. I used to have the ARC running to 12 or 15K, and I happened to have a calibrator at my house during that time period. He measured the RTA with the ARC correction, and the high frequencies were quite tipped up. He recommended I lower my correction to 2K. I've stuck with 5K, so I can use the ARC to correct the B&W midrange dip.


I don't understand why a whole group using speakers from one manufacturer would get inaccurate data in treble measurement, and others such as yourself would not have this problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19130966
> 
> 
> So in the end it sounds like what Bob has said many times in his posts "trust ARC"!!! But Bob, we need to feed our "tweak-itis" fever some how!!!



Well this IS a tweaking thread. We are all guilty of enticing folks to tweak.


Hey, come on! The first tweak is free!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/19130988
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> It is interesting that a group of us, all with B&W speakers, have noticed that the ARC microphone measures a severe dropoff in frequency response above 10K, and are sticking to using the ARC below 5K. So either there is some particular reason why our ARC setups are incapable of accurate treble measurements, or the B&W tweeter is really poor.
> 
> 
> I am assuming it is the first. I used to have the ARC running to 12 or 15K, and I happened to have a calibrator at my house during that time period. He measured the RTA with the ARC correction, and the high frequencies were quite tipped up. He recommended I lower my correction to 2K. I've stuck with 5K, so I can use the ARC to correct the B&W midrange dip.
> 
> 
> I don't understand why a whole group using speakers from one manufacturer would get inaccurate data in treble measurement, and others such as yourself would not have this problem.



I don't have a good explanation. Have you tried the new "test" ARC? Does it yield the same Measurements at high frequency?


All I can guess is that there is something about the directionality of the B&W tweeters that is at odds with what the ARC engineers are assuming the omni-directional mic will hear.


B&W is known for their "designed in" small, shallow dip near 4KHz, but I don't know of anything that's supposed to be peculiar about their treble.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

Since I have been running ARC with my set up and prior to 2.4.11, I have always gotten 0 room gain. However, with 2.4.11 and higher, ARC has been finding between 1.5 and 2.0 room gain. I guess that's because of the change Anthem has made for the LFE. So, that makes sense to me. Normally, after I run ARC, I play around with the room gain to see how high I can push it before I begin to see wobbles on the charts. With the latest beta, v2.4.16, I can go up as high as 3.900000, and my charts are good. So, I was wondering why ARC is only detecting between 1.5 and 2.0 when the charts look good up to 3.900000. Anybody have any idea? Bob, jayray, etc.... Anybody? I also sent this question to Anthem Tech Support.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

They are not looking to find a Room Gain that's max possible, nor even one that makes the calculated curves look best.


Instead they are trying to detect the inherent Room Gain in your room and preserve that as part of the solution. I.e., what's the best result you can get WITHOUT altering the natural Room Gain of this particular room.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Are they ribbon tweeters?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19131024
> 
> 
> I don't have a good explanation. Have you tried the new "test" ARC? Does it yield the same Measurements at high frequency?
> 
> 
> All I can guess is that there is something about the directionality of the B&W tweeters that is at odds with what the ARC engineers are assuming the omni-directional mic will hear.
> 
> 
> B&W is known for their "designed in" small, shallow dip near 4KHz, but I don't know of anything that's supposed to be peculiar about their treble.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19129560
> 
> 
> Thanks for sharing your experience, and I checked out your sig. Your setup is really nice. Job well done. So ARC got you 60 to 65% of happiness. I'm sure that was with the previous version of ARC. With the latest version of ARC, the low end has been enhanced which means it would probably give you 75% of happiness now. This tells me that ARC stacks up pretty darn good to a professional audio calibration. I can tell you that the beta version 2.4.16 sounds really good, and the LFE is really full and hits really good. Anyway, I appreciate you sharing your experience.



I'm looking forward to the next non-beta version of ARC. I agree that ARC stacks up pretty well but I wouldn't consider it a substitute for a pro audio calibration in ALL circumstances. But it would be for probably MOST people, and really that's an incredible achievement.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19131131
> 
> 
> They are not looking to find a Room Gain that's max possible, nor even one that makes the calculated curves look best.
> 
> 
> Instead they are trying to detect the inherent Room Gain in your room and preserve that as part of the solution. I.e., what's the best result you can get WITHOUT altering the natural Room Gain of this particular room.
> 
> --Bob



Ok. Another question. With the low room gain, my calculated charts are not as smooth as they are when I raise it up to like 3.0 or 3.9. So, a little higher room gain makes my chart looks better. I know it's about how it sounds and not about how it looks; but, I'm just having a hmmmmmm...... moment. So, please bear with me.


----------



## JimP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/19131145
> 
> 
> I'm looking forward to the next non-beta version of ARC. I agree that ARC stacks up pretty well but I wouldn't consider it a substitute for a pro audio calibration in ALL circumstances. But it would be for probably MOST people, and really that's an incredible achievement.



When you say "pro audio calibration", what are you saying exactly?


What I'm not understanding is how without additional equipment, one can do much more than aiming speakers, adjusting levels and correct any timing errors. Things like frequency corrections for 7-9 channels can take some fairly expensive add on equipment.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19131151
> 
> 
> Ok. Another question. With the low room gain, my calculated charts are not as smooth as they are when I raise it up to like 3.0 or 3.9. So, a little higher room gain makes my chart looks better. I know it's about how it sounds and not about how it looks; but, I'm just having a hmmmmmm...... moment. So, please bear with me.



Here's the response from Andrew at Anthem Technical Support:


Although your charts may seem correct up to a 3.9dB of room gain,

ARC is determining, that based upon your room setup and speakers, that a room gain of 1.3 - 1.6dB is optimal.

This is based on the ARC software.

If for any reason it was optimal for the room gain to be 3.9dB ARC would have calculated for this.


If you would like to do a test run the ARC at 1.3 - 1.6dB and then run it at 3.9dB and listen to the difference.

See which sounds best.

If you are happy with the 3.9dB outcome then that can be used.

Once again ARC determined that this was not the best suited setting for your particular application.




Best

Regards,


Andrew Cirurgiao

Technical Support


----------



## shiznit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19130647
> 
> 
> Anthem's default for ARC is to correct only up to 5KHz. The *MAIN* reason for this is that getting quality Measured data in treble is tricky. What the mic hears is subject to all sorts of things including details of speaker pointing, mic placement, and even room humidity.
> 
> 
> However, many of us believe we do have good Measured data above 5KHz, and ARC gives you the option of raising Max EQ Frequency. When you do that, ARC reassigns resources to apply the correction up there. Usually that works without untoward consequences, but some folks have found that applying correction higher up means they get poorer Calculated curves lower down -- more ripples and residual error.
> 
> 
> Now some of that is undoubtedly due to simply mapping the correction tools across the wider frequency, but some of it appears to be lack of correction resources. That is, if a lot of correction is needed lower down, telling ARC to do work higher up means the lower frequencies can't be fully corrected.
> 
> 
> The workaround of course is to pull back Max EQ Frequency to a smaller value. Often just a few KHz change is enough for everything to snap back in to full correction.
> 
> 
> Folks who have setups that DON'T need a lot of correction lower down are more likely to have no problems like this when they raise Max EQ Frequency.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: It appears Anthem may have changed the way they allocate resources for the latest "test" ARC. If ARC can't do the full frequency range of correction you have asked for, it appears this new version may still give priority to the lower frequencies -- meaning you may not see as much correction higher up as you thought you might get. But we'll need to see more results charts from more posters before that gets nailed down. Also keep in mind that you can often change the amount of correction ARC needs to do lower down by judicious tweaking of Room Gain and the cutoff/crossover frequencies.
> 
> --Bob



What about using PBK for down low and let ARC handle the higher frequencies??? I am contemplating either a D2V or one of the new MRX receivers but I don't like the idea of ARC running out of resources or having a priority for low frequencies when I already own a SUB 25 with PBK that corrects the lows.. Can I somehow prioritize ARC to handle high frequencies only or better?


Thanks,

s


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19130983
> 
> 
> LFE is basically all gone by 120Hz, so the difference between 105 and 120 is minimal. For movies, the most important range for LFE is 45-65Hz. That's where the bulk of the LFE volume is found. The second most important is the thuds well below 30Hz that you feel rather than hear. For Music, it really depends on how the music mixer chose to use LFE -- if at all.
> 
> 
> For bass steering from the mains, the most important range is of course the octave below the crossover -- i.e., from the crossover frequency down to 1/2 of the crossover frequency. But your mains all crossover fairly low as I recall so again the 105 vs 120Hz change means nothing. For movies the Center crossover is the crucial one because that's where bass content is found since the movie mixer can't assume you'll have a sub. For music, the LF/RF crossover is the crucial one.
> 
> 
> Your speakers really don't need any serious correction above 5KHz as I recall, so I'm not surprised you don't hear a difference up there.
> 
> --Bob



As Nick is very familiar with my speakers, he has the same ones, it was his assertion that they are quite accurate at high frequencies and don't need a lot of correction. In fact the charts won't necessarily show this as they aren't as accurate up there. So in the end, 5K is just fine for me. I tested today with Transformers Revenge of the Fallen and my sub was tight as a drum and this film has some very low LFE.

John


----------



## ahanson3

Does anyone know if there is a Com port limitation in the latest ARC software when using the Keyspan USA-19HS serial adapter? In other words, is there a limitation to using Com1 through Com4 or Com1 through Com6? Reason I ask is, I just installed the Keyspan software on my laptop and it assigned Com8. I need to know if I have to try to change it to something lower so that it will work with the Anthem ARC software. My new D2v is in the process of being shipped so I don't have the ARC software instructions to reference.


Alan

ahanson3


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is a limit. Use COM1 - COM6


By the way, you can download a PDF of the Manual (including its Section on ARC) from Anthem's public download page for the D2v:

http://anthemav.com/index.php?option..._view&Itemid=8 


--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shiznit* /forum/post/19131263
> 
> 
> What about using PBK for down low and let ARC handle the higher frequencies??? I am contemplating either a D2V or one of the new MRX receivers but I don't like the idea of ARC running out of resources or having a priority for low frequencies when I already own a SUB 25 with PBK that corrects the lows.. Can I somehow prioritize ARC to handle high frequencies only or better?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> s



I have a sub 25 with a D2v and have tried PBK first and then ARC and ARC alone. I am now using ARC alone. It did a slightly better job on it's own as opposed to doing it with both. PBK is usually recommended for multiple subs and then run ARC but for single setups it is not. By moving speakers and optimizing their position you make it easier for ARC to use it's resources effectively. Once I moved my sub around I found the ideal spot and ARC did an amazing job of correcting with plenty left over for higher freq. As for the MRX receivers, they will have fewer DSP resources available for correction so the D2v or AVM50v would be better if resources are a concern.

John


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19131024
> 
> 
> I don't have a good explanation. Have you tried the new "test" ARC? Does it yield the same Measurements at high frequency?
> 
> 
> All I can guess is that there is something about the directionality of the B&W tweeters that is at odds with what the ARC engineers are assuming the omni-directional mic will hear.
> 
> 
> B&W is known for their "designed in" small, shallow dip near 4KHz, but I don't know of anything that's supposed to be peculiar about their treble.
> 
> --Bob



One thing I also did was to remove all speaker grills, adjust the mic height to be at the midrange or tweeter level and put the mic a meter or two just in front of the speaker with nothing in between. This gave a pretty good idea of how good or how bad the mic can measure and the speaker can output.

Then putting back the grill on and moving the mic around while doing the sweeps will give you what a speaker grill can remove and what the off axis response was.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shiznit* /forum/post/19131263
> 
> 
> What about using PBK for down low and let ARC handle the higher frequencies??? I am contemplating either a D2V or one of the new MRX receivers but I don't like the idea of ARC running out of resources or having a priority for low frequencies when I already own a SUB 25 with PBK that corrects the lows.. Can I somehow prioritize ARC to handle high frequencies only or better?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> s



No you can't really keep ARC from applying itself down there. But if you use PBK to eliminate most of the issues, ARC will find nothing additional it needs to do down there and so there won't be a resource conflict if you ask it to correct higher up.


(For newbies: PBK is the subwoofer-only subset of ARC that Paradigm is now offering in its new subs. The processor in the sub implements the solution determined by the PBK software. You can set up PBK and then set up ARC on top of that. But the bass portion of ARC is just PBK anyway, so unless you need a lot of correction down there, or have multiple subs complicating the setup, there's no gain in using PBK. ARC will do the job. If you have multiple PBK subs, you can use PBK in each to optimize the performance of each sub in turn and then use ARC to optimize the combo of them playing together. ONLY ARC will handle the transitions between the mains and the sub (or sub combo). PBK can't do that. And ONLY ARC will handle the special part of the solution for LFE content -- which is distinct from the crossover driven bass steering from the mains.)


Keep in mind that the REAL problem in telling ARC to correct higher up is whether the Measured data up there is any good to begin with.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ahanson3* /forum/post/19131318
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if there is a Com port limitation in the latest ARC software when using the Keyspan USA-19HS serial adapter? In other words, is there a limitation to using Com1 through Com4 or Com1 through Com6? Reason I ask is, I just installed the Keyspan software on my laptop and it assigned Com8. I need to know if I have to try to change it to something lower so that it will work with the Anthem ARC software. My new D2v is in the process of being shipped so I don't have the ARC software instructions to reference.
> 
> 
> Alan
> 
> ahanson3



There is a utility that come with the Keyspan: "Keyspan Serial Assistant"

that let you reassign the keyspan to a lower com port.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/19131379
> 
> 
> One thing I also did was to remove all speaker grills, adjust the mic height to be at the midrange or tweeter level and put the mic a meter or two just in front of the speaker with nothing in between. This gave a pretty good idea of how good or how bad the mic can measure and the speaker can output.
> 
> Then putting back the grill on and moving the mic around while doing the sweeps will give you what a speaker grill can remove and what the off axis response was.



You have to be careful using data recorded when the mic is close to the speaker. The "near field" response of speakers is different from their response at normal listening distances.


Testing speakers with grills on/off is a very good idea. This is PARTICULARLY true if you have custom grills as with built-in speakers. We've had multiple reports here of folks with lousy treble response who discovered their custom grills had a mounting/support bar positioned smack across their tweeter.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/19128741
> 
> 
> As John (Jayray) had indicated, it was me that recently posted about my experience with a professional audio calibration. Just to recap, we discovered that there were some things that the ARC did well and some things that made us shake our heads a little (like the obvious peak that wasn't being corrected around 140hz despite running ARC a couple of times. It wasn't a resource issue as I don't run ARC above 5khz, and in fact prefer it set at 2khz. I found that when it corrected the subtle "dip" around 2 to 5khz it actually made things sound way too aggressive and harsh)
> 
> 
> We did find an ARC error - the crossed over bass to the sub from any channel was way down in level (about 6-8db) and this was consistent from multiple tests and reruns of ARC. I haven't had a chance to send my findings off to Nick, but I just boosted the sub level by 6db. It measures, and sounds, way better that way.
> 
> 
> Let me just say that ARC is the best thing you can do for your system for 400bucks. But let me also say that audio calibration improved things beyond what ARC alone could do. I have 4 JL F113s. I placed them "sensibly" and adjusted the phase of each according to various methods including the one Bob P kindly posted. My bass response measured quite well in my dedicated room, as expected with 4 subs (which really smooths the response at multiple seating positions). It sounded pretty good too, and I was happy but not "ecstatic". Keep in mind I'm an "audiophile" and a fanatic, like many of you are. My room was built from the ground up as a dedicated space (the link is in my sig) with pretty good gear.
> 
> 
> I'd say that I was at 60-65% of "happy" with the combo of equipment, room, and ARC. Like I said, I'm fussy. The audio calibration result moved the front 2 subs only and not by much (as well as the main speakers). Measurably there wasn't all that much difference but audibly - un-friggin-believable bass and imaging and "realism". I'd say it takes me to about 90% of "nirvana" with 2 channel, and 95% with movies which is higher than almost any other system I've ever heard, and I've heard a lot! ARC will massively improve what most people would be able to do but a pro calibration was able to really make my system shine (with a fresh ARC calibration after repositioning the mains and the front 2 subs of course).
> 
> 
> Does that make an audio calibration worth the money? To me it does. Not bragging but I've got a lot of money tied up in the gear and it just makes sense to eke out as much from it as is possible, until you can believe that you are getting all that your system is capable of. My calibrator thinks he could get slightly better measured results with the QSC 8 channel dsp unit, which he has a lot of experience with, but he says the result we got was certainly quite good (once we had corrected the level error I mentioned. I don't know if that's just something up with my system or a problem with ARC that just hasn't been exposed).
> 
> 
> Hope that helps, and feel free to PM me or post any relevant questions.



The sub level is also what I am noticing and I know there was one more person here reporting about it. ARC sets the sub level 5-8db too low. I hope Anthem will take care of it before the final release of the new ARC.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19128751
> 
> 
> The current "test" ARC I think fixes the low bass problem you found.
> 
> --Bob



It does not. It is still low. The new ARC just fixes the behavior of the low base particularly below 20hz. This is also one thing I hope Anthem will give to users to see charts below 20hz. That will be fantastic.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19131509
> 
> 
> The sub level is also what I am noticing and I know there was one more person here reporting about it. ARC sets the sub level 5-8db too low. I hope Anthem will take care of it before the final release of the new ARC.



In an earlier version I believe this was the case. However since 2.413... has been out, my LFE is very good and I find no need to raise it.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19131237
> 
> 
> Here's the response from Andrew at Anthem Technical Support:



The "best" Room Gain is the inherent, natural Room Gain as that means that sounds occurring in tracks and also occurring in real life in the room (e.g., talking, doors closing, etc.) sound the same. Movie mixers assume listening rooms will have a natural Room Gain in the 2-4dB range.


That is, Room Gain is a room response that's desirable to preserve even as ARC is trying to eliminate other room response characteristics.


Room Gain shows up on the charts as the shallow hump near the crossover frequencies -- the "Room Gain" value is the peak difference of the hump above the basic volume level of the solution. If you adjust Room Gain up or down on your own that hump will change and you will hear just what that change suggests will happen.


ARC analyzes the Measured data from all speakers to try to determine the inherent Room Gain in your room. Certain patterns of speaker Measured curves can confuse ARC. So ARC won't use a Room Gain value below 0dB for example. The latest "test" ARC also won't pick a Room Gain value above 4dB, although you can set it higher yourself. Due to processing details, this shows in the Targets window as a Room Gain value just under 4dB -- 3.94... or some such.


If your room is acoustically treated, low Room Gain values are "normal", although perhaps not desirable. If your speakers happen to show a significant dip in output near or just above the crossover frequencies, ARC will see this, perhaps mistakenly, as a small Room Gain for your room. The 0dB limit will keep you from getting ridiculous results. There are other patterns that look to ARC like a high Room Gain. The 4dB limit traps that.


Odds are you won't hear modest changes in Room Gain you choose to make -- say +/-0.5dB. So that gives you some flexibility to improve ARC's solution if you like to tweak. If you think ARC found the wrong Room Gain for your room -- due to issues you see in the red Measured curves for your speakers. Feel free to give it a helping hand.


Also, be aware that MUSIC mixers have no agreed idea as to what Room Gain to assume in a listening room. Some music enthusiasts like lower Room Gain for Music. Personally, I set my Music solution about 1dB lower in Room Gain from my Movie solution. I'm not really sure I'm hearing any significant difference, but in general this sounds good to me. ARC itself treats Movie and Music identically -- i.e., the names are just for convenience.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19131566
> 
> 
> The "best" Room Gain is the inherent, natural Room Gain as that means that sounds occurring in tracks and also occurring in real life in the room (e.g., talking, doors closing, etc.) sound the same. Movie mixers assume listening rooms will have a natural Room Gain in the 2-4dB range.
> 
> 
> That is, Room Gain is a room response that's desirable to preserve even as ARC is trying to eliminate other room response characteristics.
> 
> 
> Room Gain shows up on the charts as the shallow hump near the crossover frequencies -- the "Room Gain" value is the peak difference of the hump above the basic volume level of the solution. If you adjust Room Gain up or down on your own that hump will change and you will hear just what that change suggests will happen.
> 
> 
> ARC analyzes the Measured data from all speakers to try to determine the inherent Room Gain in your room. Certain patterns of speaker Measured curves can confuse ARC. So ARC won't use a Room Gain value below 0dB for example. The latest "test" ARC also won't pick a Room Gain value above 4dB, although you can set it higher yourself. Due to processing details, this shows in the Targets window as a Room Gain value just under 4dB -- 3.94... or some such.
> 
> 
> If your room is acoustically treated, low Room Gain values are "normal", although perhaps not desirable. If your speakers happen to show a significant dip in output near or just above the crossover frequencies, ARC will see this, perhaps mistakenly, as a small Room Gain for your room. The 0dB limit will keep you from getting ridiculous results. There are other patterns that look to ARC like a high Room Gain. The 4dB limit traps that.
> 
> 
> Odds are you won't hear modest changes in Room Gain you choose to make -- say +/-0.5dB. So that gives you some flexibility to improve ARC's solution if you like to tweak. If you think ARC found the wrong Room Gain for your room -- due to issues you see in the red Measured curves for your speakers. Feel free to give it a helping hand.
> 
> 
> Also, be aware that MUSIC mixers have no agreed idea as to what Room Gain to assume in a listening room. Some music enthusiasts like lower Room Gain for Music. Personally, I set my Music solution about 1dB lower in Room Gain from my Movie solution. I'm not really sure I'm hearing any significant difference, but in general this sounds good to me. ARC itself treats Movie and Music identically -- i.e., the names are just for convenience.
> 
> --Bob



Once again, a very detailed response from Bob, and once again, it's appreciated very much.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19131542
> 
> 
> In an earlier version I believe this was the case. However since 2.413... has been out, my LFE is very good and I find no need to raise it.
> 
> John



Did you hear any difference between 2.4.13 and 2.4.16?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19131509
> 
> 
> The sub level is also what I am noticing and I know there was one more person here reporting about it. ARC sets the sub level 5-8db too low. I hope Anthem will take care of it before the final release of the new ARC.



Not seeing that in my setup. It is also not showing in MACCA350's recent tests (back a few pages). 5-8dB is a lot. I'd be looking for what's different about your setup/results compared to others here. For example, what volume trims is ARC uploading? Are any of them near or above +/-10dB? Have you altered the Max Volume setting in Setup from the +10dB default? Is there a limiter in your sub that might be kicking in during normal playback but not during the ARC test tones?


Which player are you using again, and are you using analog or HDMI audio? Be aware that some players have the infamous 5dB low LFE bug for HDMI LPCM output. This happens when the player mistakenly applies adjustments intended for the analog outputs to the HDMI output.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19131710
> 
> 
> Did you hear any difference between 2.4.13 and 2.4.16?



I would say that from 2.4.14 and 16 there has been no diff. Can't remember prior to that. I do remember upping bass at one point in my tweaking process but not recently.

John


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19131728
> 
> 
> Not seeing that in my setup. It is also not showing in MACCA350's recent tests (back a few pages). 5-8dB is a lot. I'd be looking for what's different about your setup/results compared to others here. For example, what volume trims is ARC uploading? Are any of them near or above +/-10dB? Have you altered the Max Volume setting in Setup from the +10dB default? Is there a limiter in your sub that might be kicking in during normal playback but not during the ARC test tones?
> 
> 
> Which player are you using again, and are you using analog or HDMI audio? Be aware that some players have the infamous 5dB low LFE bug for HDMI LPCM output. This happens when the player mistakenly applies adjustments intended for the analog outputs to the HDMI output.
> 
> --Bob



The vollume trims are from -2.5 for mains to +2.0 for surrounds with sub at -4.0 db and no I did not altered the Max Volume setting in Setup from the +10dB default. I am using sub 25 and as far as I know there are no limitters. I am using the Panasonic DMP-BD85 blu-ray player with HDMI to d2v and HDMI to tv. I have the payer set for Bitstream to d2v.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19132092
> 
> 
> I would say that from 2.4.14 and 16 there has been no diff. Can't remember prior to that. I do remember upping bass at one point in my tweaking process but not recently.
> 
> John



Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19132280
> 
> 
> The vollume trims are from -2.5 for mains to +2.0 for surrounds with sub at -4.0 db and no I did not altered the Max Volume setting in Setup from the +10dB default. I am using sub 25 and as far as I know there are no limitters. I am using the Panasonic DMP-BD85 blu-ray player with HDMI to d2v and HDMI to tv. I have the payer set for Bitstream to d2v.



Have you measured your sub output with a calibration disc? Do you see the 5-8db deficit in a test like that? I recommend the AIX Calibration Blu-Ray disc by the way. A deficit this big should be pretty obvious even just using an SPL meter.


I don't recall any problems reported on that Panasonic player, and it would be difficult for problems to arise when using HDMI Bitstream anyway.


Lack of bass from the TV source is not surprising. A lot of movie broadcasts for example have the LFE reduced or missing altogether.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19132550
> 
> 
> Have you measured your sub output with a calibration disc? Do you see the 5-8db deficit in a test like that? I recommend the AIX Calibration Blu-Ray disc by the way. A deficit this big should be pretty obvious even just using an SPL meter.
> 
> 
> I don't recall any problems reported on that Panasonic player, and it would be difficult for problems to arise when using HDMI Bitstream anyway.
> 
> 
> Lack of bass from the TV source is not surprising. A lot of movie broadcasts for example have the LFE reduced or missing altogether.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.

I measured the sub level at the cross over freq (60 hz) by SPL meter by playing a 60 hz tone from AVIA disk (original) but not by calibration disk like AIX. I am not getting any sound from tv because I changed the source of sound on my tv to different source. So when I use d2v, I don't get any sound from tv.


----------



## dherrick

I haven't seen another post and I don't know what may have changed, but ARC v2.4.17 is now posted on the password protected site.


----------



## greyflag

Hi Bob (and all),


I did my original ARC measurements 10 months ago with v2.2. I have since changed furniture (this is a family room not a dedicated theater) and repositioned my speakers. Previously, the L&R fronts were approx. 5' apart. As the main listening position is between 9 and 10 feet away, I increased the distance to 7.5 feet. Room configuration prevents much more separation than this. The right front is around 3.5 feet from the end of an sectional couch, while the left front does not have this problem. I'm assuming that this is why ARC is having a problem between 100 and 150 Hz. Also, last year I believe that you recommended raising my targets above 5 kHz. Would you do so in this case? FWIW moving my sub from the side wall to the front wall eliminated a nasty dip at 50 Hz that ARC could not fully eliminate.


Levels were taken with my Radio Shack meter per your recommendations at 75db.


I could move the right front inboard of the end of the couch. This would result in the main listening position favoring the right front by 1 or 2 feet.


I do not pretend to have the expertise of most posters here, but any input is appreciated.


Regards,


Glenn


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/19133046
> 
> 
> I haven't seen another post and I don't know what may have changed, but ARC v2.4.17 is now posted on the password protected site.



Thanks. I'll grab it now and post momentarily.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" ARC V2.4.17 now on Password Protected Download Page!*


As reported above, Anthem Tech Support has this evening placed "test" ARC V2.4.17 on their password protected download page. Change notes for changes since the last "official" version (ARC V2.4) now read as follows:



> Quote:
> v2.4.17 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Graphs still weren't correct in some cases - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. v40.04 now available for MRX - this ARC version must be used.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.16 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Adjusted graph levels by 6 dB.
> 
> 
> 2. For MRX, added checks to increase chances of proper measurement (MRX v40.04 or later must be used).
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.15 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed too-high sweep levels introduced in previous beta.
> 
> 
> Note: MRX must also be updated.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.14 beta
> 
> 
> 1. (MRX only) Fix for high frequency noise introduced in v2.4.13.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.13 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for upper-frequency measurement. (Note: Recalibration data is now embedded).
> 
> 
> 2. (MRX only) Fix for subwoofer level calibration.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.12 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Added advanced controls in Targets panel for the sub's low end rolloff.
> 
> 
> 2. Room Gain limited to 4 dB maximum (previously 6 dB).
> 
> 
> 3. Added MRX series AV receiver compatibility.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.4.11 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Added speaker positioning helper under Advanced mode / Tools / Quick Measure. This sweeps the selected speaker continuously to instantly show uncorrected frequency response graph. This can be most useful for finding a location for the subwoofer, since bass resonances vary greatly according to speaker positioning. Approximately ten sweeps are needed before graph is shown - after that update is live.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Quick Measure resets crossover and level calibration setup menus. If you won't be following Quick Measure with a full ARC procedure, and your existing crossover and level settings in the setup menu will be needed afterward, save or record them first.
> 
> 
> 2. Added compatibility for MRX 300/500/700 receivers. If loading a file that was creating using AVM, Statement D, or MRX 900, ARC will fail the upload then ask if you would like to convert the file to MRX 300/500/700 format to allow loading. Give it a different file name when prompted if you would like to keep the original file.
> 
> 
> 3. Added Flat correction range option when speakers are set to full range in Targets. To access Flat setting, select Full Range X-Over, then set frequency lower than 25 Hz or type "f" in the frequency window. (Also remember that typing "n" in frequency window disables the speaker in that configuration, as long as it is not Fronts, without discarding the measurement in case you would like to use it again it later).
> 
> 
> 4. Refined recalibration data - measurement graph may appear different by up to 1 dB in small areas when opening older file with this version. This will also cause corrected curve to have some differences.



Looks like they are still correcting chart issues. Again, as far as I can tell the solution itself is where we expect it to be in volume, so it is just the volume numbers shown on the charts that are being corrected.


There are no changes in the included Manuals and Utilities folders from the prior "test" version.


As always, remember that "test" software is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises.


We are probably getting very close to the release of a new, "official" ARC. It could even end up being this one.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Installed ARC V2.4.17. Looked at its charts for the Measurements I made a while back with ARC V2.4.13 and they were, not surprisingly, still up at 92dB. There's no warning that you need to re-Measure, but it looks like it's the same story as from ARC V2.4.15: To get the benefit of the chart values fix you need to re-Measure.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not seeing that in my setup. It is also not showing in MACCA350's recent tests (back a few pages). 5-8dB is a lot.



Can't really conclude that from my tests Bob, as I mentioned I used the AIX PCM 7.1 tones to set level to 75dB at MV -10dB for testing purposes, so there is no data there that has any real comparison to ARC levels.


I haven't really tested ARC's levels to give much information but I did notice that to get the AIX levels correct I had to bump the mains up(1-2dB) and the sub down(4-5dB). So just on those quick n dirty figures it seems ARC(0dB room gain, 80Hz xover) had set the sub channel 5-7dB hotter than the mains.


Once again I haven't tested this thoroughly, it is on the to do list. At some stage I'll check out full spectrum RTA and FFT to see how well things blend in with ARC's different settings.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Urh, hang on. You used the AIX LPCM tones to set EVERY channel to 75dB? By altering the levels ARC Uploaded?


Then how can you conclude the LPCM is being processed correctly? That result gets built in if you alter the levels.


-----------------------------


In my tests with AIX and my SPL meter I used my Uploaded ARC result levels (ARC V2.4.13) and adjusted Main Volume to get 75dB on LF, then compared output from the other speakers. I.e., I didn't alter ARC's Uploaded volume trims. As it turns out, the Main Volume I ended up using was -14dB, but the absolute Main Volume level is not important if we are trying to compare accuracy between speakers in a given track. (I believe AIX is actually authored so that -15dB would be "perfect".)


As it turns out the SPL meter said my sub was a couple dB hot (not anything like 5dB or more), but that makes sense since my Sub is largely contributing to the Room Gain hump in the range the SPL meter will sense. So just record that -- don't change it.


Now what's important is that the main speakers match around the room, and they did in my test. Noting that for LPCM I can then compare what the other track formats produced. And that's what I did in confirming what I thought were your results. I.e., comparing the same speaker in each track (and the slightly hotter sub) against its LPCM counterpart with the same Main Volume and the same, ARC-Uploaded, volume trims.


Done this way, you can validate the LPCM result and then conclude that any difference for the alternate track formats must be due to processing differences peculiar to that format.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

God I haven't got my unit yet and I'm already confused how to set the levels on this thing








. Any chance Bob that you can update or post a how to do a level calibration on the D2v? My unit should arrived in 2-3 weeks.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Urh, hang on. You used the AIX LPCM tones to set EVERY channel to 75dB? By altering the levels ARC Uploaded?



Yes, thought I mentioned this already.



> Quote:
> Then how can you conclude the LPCM is being processed correctly? That result gets built in if you alter the levels.



Looking at all the data LPCM without PLIIx is the most stable. You need some thing as the datum and since I'm just looking at what the differences are I used the AIX tones themselves so you can directly compare without excess noise in the data.


The differences will be identical whether you use ARC or the LPCM tracks as the datum, the only difference is that instead of comparing say 74 to 71 were comparing 75 to 72.......the data is still accurate it's just adjusted to make deduction easier by making errors more apparent and simpler to spot.



> Quote:
> In my tests with AIX and my SPL meter I used my Uploaded ARC result levels (ARC V2.4.13) and adjusted Main Volume to get 75dB on LF, then compared output from the other speakers. I.e., I didn't alter ARC's Uploaded volume trims. As it turns out, the Main Volume I ended up using was -14dB, but the absolute Main Volume level is not important if we are trying to compare accuracy between speakers in a given track. (I believe AIX is actually authored so that -15dB would be "perfect".)



Most reference tones are mastered either full range for 85dBSPL(C-Wtd, Slow) at 0.0dB MV or band limited for 75dBSPL(C-Wtd, Slow) at 0.0dB MV........from the sound of it AIX tones are the former though as I haven't directly compared them to the Sencore DAG reference tones I can't say for sure.


But again this is irrelevant to the comparison tests I've run.



> Quote:
> As it turns out the SPL meter said my sub was a couple dB hot (not anything like 5dB or more), but that makes sense since my Sub is largely contributing to the Room Gain hump in the range the SPL meter will sense. So just record that -- don't change it.
> 
> 
> Now what's important is that the main speakers match around the room, and they did in my test. Noting that for LPCM I can then compare what the other track formats produced. And that's what I did in confirming what I thought were your results. I.e., comparing the same speaker in each track (and the slightly hotter sub) against its LPCM counterpart with the same Main Volume and the same, ARC-Uploaded, volume trims.
> 
> 
> Done this way, you can validate the LPCM result and then conclude that any difference for the alternate track formats must be due to processing differences peculiar to that format.



You are assuming(or maybe interpreting) that ARC is accurate to reference, I made no assumption and in fact removed that variable/noise from the data. Whether your sub is bumped 2,5, or whatever it makes no difference in a comparison between the different tracks.


Cheers


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> They are not looking to find a Room Gain that's max possible, nor even one that makes the calculated curves look best.
> 
> 
> Instead they are trying to detect the inherent Room Gain in your room and preserve that as part of the solution. I.e., what's the best result you can get WITHOUT altering the natural Room Gain of this particular room.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, Is that really correct? I thought they were trying to achieve a psycho-acoustically pleasing response (gain) based upon a Canadian research paper. Based upon what you are saying if you'd a room with no gain then it will try and retain that, same for a responsive room. I honestly thought they were trying to attain the "ideal" response curve based upon speaker responses in a room, not just smooth out the dips & peaks. I maybe totally wrong here but I thought I had read this when Anthem first started talking about room correction.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Bob, Is that really correct? I thought they were trying to achieve a psycho-acoustically pleasing response (gain) based upon a Canadian research paper. Based upon what you are saying if you'd a room with no gain then it will try and retain that, same for a responsive room. I honestly thought they were trying to attain the "ideal" response curve based upon speaker responses in a room, not just smooth out the dips & peaks. I maybe totally wrong here but I thought I had read this when Anthem first started talking about room correction.



Yes, but that means detecting and preserving the gain of the room (not simply shooting for "flat"). It does not mean forcing every room to one, pre-chosen room gain value. You can see that from the different charts posted here.

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> It is interesting that a group of us, all with B&W speakers, have noticed that the ARC microphone measures a severe dropoff in frequency response above 10K, and are sticking to using the ARC below 5K. So either there is some particular reason why our ARC setups are incapable of accurate treble measurements, or the B&W tweeter is really poor.
> 
> 
> I am assuming it is the first. I used to have the ARC running to 12 or 15K, and I happened to have a calibrator at my house during that time period. He measured the RTA with the ARC correction, and the high frequencies were quite tipped up. He recommended I lower my correction to 2K. I've stuck with 5K, so I can use the ARC to correct the B&W midrange dip.
> 
> 
> I don't understand why a whole group using speakers from one manufacturer would get inaccurate data in treble measurement, and others such as yourself would not have this problem.



I have 803Ds and I see the same thing. The ARC curves are target curves based upon what it perceives to be a set of speaker responses not actual final response curves. So it is important for the listener to understand this and not just blindly follow what ARC does. If you let it correct a dip which is not really there it will in fact produce a response which is overemphasized in that region.


B&W 800 series speakers have bit of a unique tweeter which is isolated from the cabinet & tube loaded which may provide problems with averaging responses from multiple positions. They are very sensitive to toeing in which to me would confirm this.


It would be interesting to see if Klipsch speakers with their horn loaded tweeters also had similar issues.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

MACCA350,

The problem with altering the levels is that if any portion of the mixed frequency tone you are hearing is participating in bass steering you will get an incorrect crossover for that portion, and the crossover may vary between speakers (certainly does with mine).


And by setting the levels for LPCM you lose the info about variation within LPCM, which is just what we're talking about regarding the other poster.


------------------


I know from my ARC charts that the sub should measure a little hot in SPL due to the Room Gain hump. And indeed that's what I see leaving ARC's levels unchanged. So my LPCM results make sense (no PLIIx of course in my 5.1 setup).


And then, as you note, we can just see the delta from those results when different formats are processed.


But if your sub was really 5dB or more too hot after ARC, that suggests something is wrong.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mikefl52,


I know that Anthem is aware of the odd treble Measurements from B&W speakers. I don't know that they have an explanation yet.


The red Measured curves are simply an unweighted average of the data from all the mic positions for each speaker. So we don't get to see the positional variation that the ARC algorithm is seeing in the raw data.


Are the B&W speakers so directional in treble that there might be a complete dead spot for treble at some mic position?

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mikefl52,
> 
> 
> I know that Anthem is aware of the odd treble Measurements from B&W speakers. I don't know that they have an explanation yet.
> 
> 
> The red Measured curves are simply an unweighted average of the data from all the mic positions for each speaker. So we don't get to see the positional variation that the ARC algorithm is seeing in the raw data.
> 
> 
> Are the B&W speakers so directional in treble that there might be a complete dead spot for treble at some mic position?
> 
> --Bob



I know they have a pretty specific sweet spot and as I said sensitive to toeing in correctly which may represent a drop off in off axis (horizontal) response.

They are wonderful speakers but they are not very forgiving to placement.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19134294
> 
> 
> God I haven't got my unit yet and I'm already confused how to set the levels on this thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Any chance Bob that you can update or post a how to do a level calibration on the D2v? My unit should arrived in 2-3 weeks.



Is this the sort of thing you were looking for?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post18914184 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greyflag* /forum/post/19133099
> 
> 
> Hi Bob (and all),
> 
> 
> I did my original ARC measurements 10 months ago with v2.2. I have since changed furniture (this is a family room not a dedicated theater) and repositioned my speakers. Previously, the L&R fronts were approx. 5' apart. As the main listening position is between 9 and 10 feet away, I increased the distance to 7.5 feet. Room configuration prevents much more separation than this. The right front is around 3.5 feet from the end of an sectional couch, while the left front does not have this problem. I'm assuming that this is why ARC is having a problem between 100 and 150 Hz. Also, last year I believe that you recommended raising my targets above 5 kHz. Would you do so in this case? FWIW moving my sub from the side wall to the front wall eliminated a nasty dip at 50 Hz that ARC could not fully eliminate.
> 
> 
> Levels were taken with my Radio Shack meter per your recommendations at 75db.
> 
> 
> I could move the right front inboard of the end of the couch. This would result in the main listening position favoring the right front by 1 or 2 feet.
> 
> 
> I do not pretend to have the expertise of most posters here, but any input is appreciated.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> Glenn



Which version of ARC are you using? The "official" V2.4 or one of the recent flurry of "test" versions (the latest being V2.4.17 from last night)?


If you are using 2.4, I wouldn't spend too much time tweaking this as there is likely to be a new "official" version any day now that based on what we are seeing in the "test" versions may do a better job of handling your issue with RF. So you might just want to hold off for that.


Anyway, let's talk tweaking:


The thing to focus on is getting RF better corrected.


Your room is surprisingly "flat" for a room that has not been acoustically treated. ARC found a very small Room Gain, and indeed that's what the red Measured curves suggest by eye as well. I think you might enjoy the sound more if you pushed up the Room Gain a bit -- say to 2dB. And that alone will alter what ARC is trying to do with RF and may (or may not) yield a cleaner Calculated result. You can play around with different values quite quickly -- no need to re-Measure.


Another thing to play with is the Max EQ Frequency. Now since you already have insufficient correction in RF, you don't want to push up Max EQ Frequency trying to take advantage of additional correction at the high end because that will just divert resources from the low end. HOWEVER, the mystery processing going on inside ARC is sometimes sensitive to the range of frequencies you tell it to correct. Moving Max EQ Frequency around a bit will alter the way the correction resources map into that range of frequencies, and can sometimes have a surprisingly good result in getting a problem like your RF to suddenly snap back into proper correction.


So I'd try moving Max EQ Frequency up to 10KHz and then perhaps playing around with different values up and down from there for it to see if you can find a setting that clears up RF. Play around with Room Gain values at the same time. Your Measurements between 5 and 10KHz don't show you need a lot of correction in that range, so it should be safe to maneuver in there.


Keep in mind that both of these changes will affect ALL the speakers, so you need to check and make sure your candidate changes to improve RF don't screw things up for the other speakers.


So play around with that a bit and if you can find a way to clean up RF without messing up the other speakers then post your charts and Targets again and we can look at what else you might want to try to improve.


And again, if you are not using the "test" ARC version, plan on re-Measuring when you get that, perhaps as the next "official" version, as it should do good things for you. The necessary tweaks for that one will likely be different.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I did a new measurment with 2.4.17 and the volume levels are back to 75 dB. Nothing else changed as far as I can tell. Will test later.

John


----------



## Texas steve

Good work John, you save us a lot of time. So far i did .14 and am holding to re-ARC since there are no real sonic changes yet.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19135416
> 
> 
> I did a new measurment with 2.4.17 and the volume levels are back to 75 dB. Nothing else changed as far as I can tell. Will test later.
> 
> John


----------



## Bob Pariseau














--Bob


----------



## dlynch34

I need some advise on a blu Ray player for my d2v. I currently have a lg bd390 I'm moving upstairs for the wife and thinking about getting a bdp-80 for sacd. I know that a lot of you have the bdp-83 and wondered would I be dissatisfied with the bdp-80?



Thanks


----------



## Texas steve

So........................????????











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19135465
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/19135469
> 
> 
> I need some advise on a blu Ray player for my d2v. I currently have a lg bd390 I'm moving upstairs for the wife and thinking about getting a bdp-80 for sacd. I know that a lot of you have the bdp-83 and wondered would I be dissatisfied with the bdp-80?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



I don't think you'll be dissatisfied with it. However if you watch a lot of Standard DVD, or the SD extras often found on Blu-Ray discs, I think you'll be happier with the 83. The de-interlacing and scaling in the 83 is much better, which means you can set it to output 1080p and thus use some of the convenience features in it. With the 80, you would want to use Source Direct and let the D2v do the work.


For example, the Zoom mode works much better in the 83 than in the 80.


Keep in mind there are still lots of great movies out there which are not yet available on Blu-Ray.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/19135469
> 
> 
> I need some advise on a blu Ray player for my d2v. I currently have a lg bd390 I'm moving upstairs for the wife and thinking about getting a bdp-80 for sacd. I know that a lot of you have the bdp-83 and wondered would I be dissatisfied with the bdp-80?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



the only thing diff as far as I know, is the lack of upscaling in the bdp 80, otherwise should be fine. If using BDs won't be an issue. Still plays SACD and DVDA.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19135496
> 
> 
> the only thing diff as far as I know, is the lack of upscaling in the bdp 80, otherwise should be fine. If using BDs won't be an issue. Still plays SACD and DVDA.
> 
> John



To clarify, the Oppo BDP-80 both de-interlaces and upscales. It just doesn't do either of those AS WELL as the BDP-83.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19135503
> 
> 
> To clarify, the Oppo BDP-80 both de-interlaces and upscales. It just doesn't do either of those AS WELL as the BDP-83.
> 
> --Bob



Sorry.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19135448
> 
> 
> Good work John, you save us a lot of time. So far i did .14 and am holding to re-ARC since there are no real sonic changes yet.



I don't think there will be any sonic changes in the final as the low freq. correction was the main reason for the new versions. If there are not any changes after 2.4.17, this could be it. Not sure if any of the versions after 2.4.14 would make your sub 25 sound better. Wouldn't you like to know
















John


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> MACCA350,
> 
> The problem with altering the levels is that if any portion of the mixed frequency tone you are hearing is participating in bass steering you will get an incorrect crossover for that portion, and the crossover may vary between speakers (certainly does with mine).



Were not looking at bass steering as I believe the AIX bass tones are on the LFE channel. The AIX tones for the main channels are high pass filtered at about 100-120Hz. Either way I forced ARC to set all xovers to 80Hz with 0dB room gain, so steered bass will have similar impact from all channels.



> Quote:
> And by setting the levels for LPCM you lose the info about variation within LPCM, which is just what we're talking about regarding the other poster.



No, again that's an assumption that ARC and test gear is accurate to relevant standards, variation will still be shown in comparison to the other test tracks. If LPCM had an issue say where the sub channel was down by 3dB you would clearly see the decrepancy. In any case LPCM 2.0/5.1/7.1 all showed identical balance between channels, their balance also concurred with DD 2.0, DD 5.1 and TrueHD 7.1 decoded in either device along with all codecs bar DTS when decoded in the oppo.



> Quote:
> I know from my ARC charts that the sub should measure a little hot in SPL due to the Room Gain hump. And indeed that's what I see leaving ARC's levels unchanged. So my LPCM results make sense (no PLIIx of course in my 5.1 setup).



It's quite possible ARC is accurate, I just never assume anything until I have tested it thoroughly, which I haven't done yet.



> Quote:
> But if your sub was really 5dB or more too hot after ARC, that suggests something is wrong.



Too early to tell, one other point is we are using different test gear.


Cheers


----------



## Texas steve

Bait, bait, bait!!!










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19135874
> 
> 
> . Not sure if any of the versions after 2.4.14 would make your sub 25 sound better. Wouldn't you like to know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## greyflag




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19134916
> 
> 
> Which version of ARC are you using? The "official" V2.4 or one of the recent flurry of "test" versions (the latest being V2.4.17 from last night)?
> 
> 
> If you are using 2.4, I wouldn't spend too much time tweaking this as there is likely to be a new "official" version any day now that based on what we are seeing in the "test" versions may do a better job of handling your issue with RF. So you might just want to hold off for that.
> 
> 
> Anyway, let's talk tweaking:
> 
> 
> The thing to focus on is getting RF better corrected.
> 
> 
> Your room is surprisingly "flat" for a room that has not been acoustically treated. ARC found a very small Room Gain, and indeed that's what the red Measured curves suggest by eye as well. I think you might enjoy the sound more if you pushed up the Room Gain a bit -- say to 2dB. And that alone will alter what ARC is trying to do with RF and may (or may not) yield a cleaner Calculated result. You can play around with different values quite quickly -- no need to re-Measure.
> 
> 
> Another thing to play with is the Max EQ Frequency. Now since you already have insufficient correction in RF, you don't want to push up Max EQ Frequency trying to take advantage of additional correction at the high end because that will just divert resources from the low end. HOWEVER, the mystery processing going on inside ARC is sometimes sensitive to the range of frequencies you tell it to correct. Moving Max EQ Frequency around a bit will alter the way the correction resources map into that range of frequencies, and can sometimes have a surprisingly good result in getting a problem like your RF to suddenly snap back into proper correction.
> 
> 
> So I'd try moving Max EQ Frequency up to 10KHz and then perhaps playing around with different values up and down from there for it to see if you can find a setting that clears up RF. Play around with Room Gain values at the same time. Your Measurements between 5 and 10KHz don't show you need a lot of correction in that range, so it should be safe to maneuver in there.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that both of these changes will affect ALL the speakers, so you need to check and make sure your candidate changes to improve RF don't screw things up for the other speakers.
> 
> 
> So play around with that a bit and if you can find a way to clean up RF without messing up the other speakers then post your charts and Targets again and we can look at what else you might want to try to improve.
> 
> 
> And again, if you are not using the "test" ARC version, plan on re-Measuring when you get that, perhaps as the next "official" version, as it should do good things for you. The necessary tweaks for that one will likely be different.
> 
> --Bob



Indeed, I am using the "official" 2.4. While waiting for the latest and greatest version, I'll try your suggestions. If things look good, I'll post the results here.


As always Bob, thanks.


Glenn


----------



## TboneofLA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19135416
> 
> 
> I did a new measurment with 2.4.17 and the volume levels are back to 75 dB. Nothing else changed as far as I can tell. Will test later.
> 
> John



My levels are all the way down to 70dB.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TboneofLA* /forum/post/19138680
> 
> 
> My levels are all the way down to 70dB.



Did you use your SPL meter to recheck your settings for Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level (and also the volume knob setting for your sub) prior to doing this new Measurement?


You may still have the additional 6dB reduction of Test Level in place that was required for some folks to get 75dB out of ARC in the "official" ARC V2.4.

--Bob


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/19131219
> 
> 
> When you say "pro audio calibration", what are you saying exactly?
> 
> 
> What I'm not understanding is how without additional equipment, one can do much more than aiming speakers, adjusting levels and correct any timing errors. Things like frequency corrections for 7-9 channels can take some fairly expensive add on equipment.



pro audio calibration is getting a guy with specific certification and a bunch of expensive test gear to come and optimize the positioning and aiming of speakers, crossovers, etc... I understand that it's easy to simplify the "position and aim" part of it but I have experienced how much difference a good calibrator can make. If you look at just the measurements you don't necessarily see a huge difference but the difference in imaging, immersion and clarity are INCREDIBLE.


As far as the bass error, the ARC program corrected values looked great both pre and post calibration. However, if you put a full range signal into any single speaker with bass management engaged the bass level going to the sub was attenuated by 6-8db or so which is clearly an error that was reproducible. Correcting that error led to an astonishing increase in quality and quantity of bass. I don't know what would happen if you didn't use bass management at all but the fact is there was a measurable repeatable error at least in my situation.


Even with no adjustment of phase on the 4 subs I have the measured and corrected bass response of my subs was very good. However, it SOUNDS way better after calibration. There was repositioning of the front 2 subs. Sure you might have been able to come up with this result without hiring someone but not by random chance. The Sencore test gear etc... is not cheap and goes beyond what most enthusiasts would own. Like I said before, a good calibration is still worth it for some people (like me) but I understand that the ARC alone is "good enough" for most people.


----------



## TboneofLA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19138707
> 
> 
> Did you use your SPL meter to recheck your settings for Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level (and also the volume knob setting for your sub) prior to doing this new Measurement?
> 
> 
> You may still have the additional 6dB reduction of Test Level in place that was required for some folks to get 75dB out of ARC in the "official" ARC V2.4.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I thought the same thing at first but went back and checked it after I saw the charts and I did have the test level set at 0.


When I measured the test noise with the SPL meter afterwards it was reading 75dB. The ARC test sweep certainly doesn't sound any lower than previsous tests either.


I may attempt to rerun the test again on the weekend.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/19138830
> 
> 
> pro audio calibration is getting a guy with specific certification and a bunch of expensive test gear to come and optimize the positioning and aiming of speakers, crossovers, etc... I understand that it's easy to simplify the "position and aim" part of it but I have experienced how much difference a good calibrator can make. If you look at just the measurements you don't necessarily see a huge difference but the difference in imaging, immersion and clarity are INCREDIBLE.
> 
> 
> As far as the bass error, the ARC program corrected values looked great both pre and post calibration. However, if you put a full range signal into any single speaker with bass management engaged the bass level going to the sub was attenuated by 6-8db or so which is clearly an error that was reproducible. Correcting that error led to an astonishing increase in quality and quantity of bass. I don't know what would happen if you didn't use bass management at all but the fact is there was a measurable repeatable error at least in my situation.
> 
> 
> Even with no adjustment of phase on the 4 subs I have the measured and corrected bass response of my subs was very good. However, it SOUNDS way better after calibration. There was repositioning of the front 2 subs. Sure you might have been able to come up with this result without hiring someone but not by random chance. The Sencore test gear etc... is not cheap and goes beyond what most enthusiasts would own. Like I said before, a good calibration is still worth it for some people (like me) but I understand that the ARC alone is "good enough" for most people.



Just a clarification, is the sub level 6 to 8 dB below or just the crossover frequency as I believe I read in your previous post?


Alvin


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TboneofLA* /forum/post/19138898
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I thought the same thing at first but went back and checked it after I saw the charts and I did have the test level set at 0.
> 
> 
> When I measured the test noise with the SPL meter afterwards it was reading 75dB. The ARC test sweep certainly doesn't sound any lower than previsous tests either.
> 
> 
> I may attempt to rerun the test again on the weekend.



Remember that you can't get a proper reading from Test Level unless the volume trim line for the LF speaker is at 0dB.


Also check the volume trims that ARC Uploaded. If you have any extreme values ARC may have had to shift the solution to get enough range to trim all the speakers. The usual culprit here is the sub.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

Here are my measurements for ARC v2.4.17. I'm going to completely trust ARC on this one and not change anything. I have only been listening to music so far, and it sounds good. The imagining is really nice. I had to check my center channel, several times, to make sure it wasn't on.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19139585
> 
> 
> Here are my measurements for ARC v2.4.17. I'm going to completely trust ARC on this one and not change anything. I have only been listening to music so far, and it sounds good. The imagining is really nice. I had to check my center channel, several times, to make sure it wasn't on.



I would also concur that with the default ARC, 5K solution, music sounded smoother, a very small reduction in "harshness". Overall very pleasing. Movies sound great and again, I detected this very slight reduction in harshness here too. Will continue to assess because that's what we do here









John


----------



## TboneofLA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19139166
> 
> 
> Remember that you can't get a proper reading from Test Level unless the volume trim line for the LF speaker is at 0dB.
> 
> 
> Also check the volume trims that ARC Uploaded. If you have any extreme values ARC may have had to shift the solution to get enough range to trim all the speakers. The usual culprit here is the sub.
> 
> --Bob



I had adjust the LF trim to 0 before I meausred, otherwise it is a few dB high.


The trim values aren't too extreme but I will level them out by adjusting the sub volume before the retest. I'm glad you mentioned that, its been a while since I checked it. Thanks.


----------



## JimP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/19138830
> 
> 
> pro audio calibration is getting a guy with specific certification and a bunch of expensive test gear to come and optimize the positioning and aiming of speakers, crossovers, etc... I understand that it's easy to simplify the "position and aim" part of it but I have experienced how much difference a good calibrator can make. If you look at just the measurements you don't necessarily see a huge difference but the difference in imaging, immersion and clarity are INCREDIBLE.
> 
> 
> As far as the bass error, the ARC program corrected values looked great both pre and post calibration. However, if you put a full range signal into any single speaker with bass management engaged the bass level going to the sub was attenuated by 6-8db or so which is clearly an error that was reproducible. Correcting that error led to an astonishing increase in quality and quantity of bass. I don't know what would happen if you didn't use bass management at all but the fact is there was a measurable repeatable error at least in my situation.
> 
> 
> Even with no adjustment of phase on the 4 subs I have the measured and corrected bass response of my subs was very good. However, it SOUNDS way better after calibration. There was repositioning of the front 2 subs. Sure you might have been able to come up with this result without hiring someone but not by random chance. The Sencore test gear etc... is not cheap and goes beyond what most enthusiasts would own. Like I said before, a good calibration is still worth it for some people (like me) but I understand that the ARC alone is "good enough" for most people.



Thanks for responding.


What you're calling a good "Pro Calibration" is what many of us have already done with REW (or other software) and lots of time. Obviously it more efficient to hire someone to come in and do it...I just didn't know if there was some secret sauce involved.


----------



## JimP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19130647
> 
> 
> Anthem's default for ARC is to correct only up to 5KHz. The *MAIN* reason for this is that getting quality Measured data in treble is tricky. What the mic hears is subject to all sorts of things including details of speaker pointing, mic placement, and even room humidity.
> 
> 
> However, many of us believe we do have good Measured data above 5KHz, and ARC gives you the option of raising Max EQ Frequency. When you do that, ARC reassigns resources to apply the correction up there. Usually that works without untoward consequences, but some folks have found that applying correction higher up means they get poorer Calculated curves lower down -- more ripples and residual error.
> 
> 
> Now some of that is undoubtedly due to simply mapping the correction tools across the wider frequency, but some of it appears to be lack of correction resources. That is, if a lot of correction is needed lower down, telling ARC to do work higher up means the lower frequencies can't be fully corrected.
> 
> 
> The workaround of course is to pull back Max EQ Frequency to a smaller value. Often just a few KHz change is enough for everything to snap back in to full correction.
> 
> 
> Folks who have setups that DON'T need a lot of correction lower down are more likely to have no problems like this when they raise Max EQ Frequency.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: It appears Anthem may have changed the way they allocate resources for the latest "test" ARC. If ARC can't do the full frequency range of correction you have asked for, it appears this new version may still give priority to the lower frequencies -- meaning you may not see as much correction higher up as you thought you might get. But we'll need to see more results charts from more posters before that gets nailed down. Also keep in mind that you can often change the amount of correction ARC needs to do lower down by judicious tweaking of Room Gain and the cutoff/crossover frequencies.
> 
> --Bob



Bob...thanks for replying.


Bottom line....if one needs correction from subwoofer to way above 5K htz(meaning many corrections), ARC (or maybe the hardware) isn't quite there yet?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/19139759
> 
> 
> Bob...thanks for replying.
> 
> 
> Bottom line....if one needs correction from subwoofer to way above 5K htz(meaning many corrections), ARC (or maybe the hardware) isn't quite there yet?



I think ARC will surprise you. Just look at the charts posted here. It is hardly short of correction range.

--Bob


----------



## Stevetd

What kind of problems might I run into running ARC on two separate units on one laptop?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/19141549
> 
> 
> What kind of problems might I run into running ARC on two separate units on one laptop?



Each unit will come with its own ARC mic (USB connection to the PC), and a pair of licensing/calibration files that are matched to the serial number of the unit and the serial number of the ARC mic.


You'll install ARC for either unit on your PC and the pair of files for that unit/mic will be installed with the application. Then you will manually copy the pair of files from the ARC install CD of the second unit into the same location (Windows > Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction) so you've now got two pair of files in there along with the one copy of the installed ARC application.


When you run ARC it will ask you to select which mic you are using. Pick the mic for the unit you intend to set up and just be sure the mic you actually use happens to be the mic you select. (ARC will warn you if you mistakenly try to use some random USB mic or the mic built into your PC, but ARC can not tell if you mistakenly use the WRONG ARC mic.)


That's basically it.


The result of doing an ARC run is a data file on the PC. There's no problem having data files for different Anthems. When the results in the data file are how you like them, you use the ARC application to Upload those results to that Anthem after which you no longer need the PC connected to the Anthem.


When you install new updates of the ARC application on your PC, the calibration/licensing file pairs will be left in place from the previous install, so no worries there either.


----------------------------------------------


Things are only slightly trickier if you also happen to have Paradigm subs with the PBK feature (the subwoofer portion of ARC). There's a PBK mic for those.

--Bob


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19141717
> 
> 
> Each unit will come with its own ARC mic (USB connection to the PC), and a pair of licensing/calibration files that are matched to the serial number of the unit and the serial number of the ARC mic.
> 
> 
> You'll install ARC for either unit on your PC and the pair of files for that unit/mic will be installed with the application. Then you will manually copy the pair of files from the ARC install CD of the second unit into the same location (Windows > Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction) so you've now got two pair of files in there along with the one copy of the installed ARC application.
> 
> 
> When you run ARC it will ask you to select which mic you are using. Pick the mic for the unit you intend to set up and just be sure the mic you actually use happens to be the mic you select. (ARC will warn you if you mistakenly try to use some random USB mic or the mic built into your PC, but ARC can not tell if you mistakenly use the WRONG ARC mic.)
> 
> 
> That's basically it.
> 
> 
> The result of doing an ARC run is a data file on the PC. There's no problem having data files for different Anthems. When the results in the data file are how you like them, you use the ARC application to Upload those results to that Anthem after which you no longer need the PC connected to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> When you install new updates of the ARC application on your PC, the calibration/licensing file pairs will be left in place from the previous install, so no worries there either.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Things are only slightly trickier if you also happen to have Paradigm subs with the PBK feature (the subwoofer portion of ARC). There's a PBK mic for those.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thank you very much for that information!


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19139054
> 
> 
> Just a clarification, is the sub level 6 to 8 dB below or just the crossover frequency as I believe I read in your previous post?
> 
> 
> Alvin



the whole sub level is shelved down. So it's not just a crossover frequency error due to phase issues. It may not have been an obvious issue if the lfe level is normal since the amount of bass "missing" would then depend on how much bass would have been present in the original signal to the 5 speakers (or 7). I don't recall from the measurements if the lfe level was shelved down but I don't believe so.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/19139691
> 
> 
> Thanks for responding.
> 
> 
> What you're calling a good "Pro Calibration" is what many of us have already done with REW (or other software) and lots of time. Obviously it more efficient to hire someone to come in and do it...I just didn't know if there was some secret sauce involved.



possibly, but I had already spent a lot of time with software like REW, an Accuphase digital eq, a Phonic hand held audio analyzer etc.... and there was definitely improvement to be had. I doubt that many people have spent more time than me fiddling and adjusting but it is theoretically possible!










The secret sauce is experience, really good math skills, and measurement tools that are appropriate to the job. A fair bit of time was spent on the math to correlate the measured results with the theoretical values for the room dimensions and adjust accordingly. Hey, I'm a hands on type of guy who hates to throw money away but in my case it was still worth the money, and it wasn't because I was looking for a more efficient way of doing it. The results speak for themselves. I'm not suggesting that everyone should do it, but in certain circumstances it will be money spent well.


----------



## LesPaul

Hello Bob and everyone,


I updated all my ARC files as Bob suggested and I noticed that one of my two mic calibration files was only 40 bytes in size and when I updated the files it was iK Bytes in size. I thought that this would correct my problem but it did not. My curves look just as they did before. I asked Anthem for a new mic on Monday but they did not replay. I will need to call them again. Any other advice? My ARC version is Beta .16 and i am using the latest D2v software.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/19142497
> 
> 
> Hello Bob and everyone,
> 
> 
> I updated all my ARC files as Bob suggested and I noticed that one of my two mic calibration files was only 40 bytes in size and when I updated the files it was iK Bytes in size. I thought that this would correct my problem but it did not. My curves look just as they did before. I asked Anthem for a new mic on Monday but they did not replay. I will need to call them again. Any other advice? My ARC version is Beta .16 and i am using the latest D2v software.



How big is the dip? Is your room acoustically treated?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/19142497
> 
> 
> Hello Bob and everyone,
> 
> 
> I updated all my ARC files as Bob suggested and I noticed that one of my two mic calibration files was only 40 bytes in size and when I updated the files it was iK Bytes in size. I thought that this would correct my problem but it did not. My curves look just as they did before. I asked Anthem for a new mic on Monday but they did not replay. I will need to call them again. Any other advice? My ARC version is Beta .16 and i am using the latest D2v software.



The licensing file is actually only 40 bytes, but takes up the minimum record size for a Windows file when on disc -- 1K to 4K normally, depending on the file system.


Are you back to your original curves with the minor dip near 12KHz and everything else OK, or are you getting the not as nice curves you posted recently where all the treble rolled off significantly, with 12KHz just being a blip in that descent?

--Bob


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19142847
> 
> 
> The licensing file is actually only 40 bytes, but takes up the minimum record size for a Windows file when on disc -- 1K to 4K normally, depending on the file system.
> 
> 
> Are you back to your original curves with the minor dip near 12KHz and everything else OK, or are you getting the not as nice curves you posted recently where all the treble rolled off significantly, with 12KHz just being a blip in that descent?
> 
> --Bob



I am getting the not as nice curves that I posted recently. The curves with the 12K dip was with my previous mic. Thanks for your response Bob.


----------



## TboneofLA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19139166
> 
> 
> Remember that you can't get a proper reading from Test Level unless the volume trim line for the LF speaker is at 0dB.
> 
> 
> Also check the volume trims that ARC Uploaded. If you have any extreme values ARC may have had to shift the solution to get enough range to trim all the speakers. The usual culprit here is the sub.
> 
> --Bob



Wow! So I checked the sub level this time, not just the speaker level for the LF and the sub level was very high in comparison to the LF (75dB) so I turned the sub level way down to get 75dB. This caused the ARC results on the charts to be even lower, 65dB now.


Now if I increase the sub level to get the ARC charts at 75dB there is a huge difference in trim levels in the ARC solution, the speakers end up as high as +10dB while the sub is -10dB.


Anythoughts on this? Maybe my SPL meter is out of calibration?


----------



## TboneofLA

So I increased the test level to 4db and turn the sub level down a little to get the following result.


I think I'm going to ignore my SPL meter for now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TboneofLA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Wow! So I checked the sub level this time, not just the speaker level for the LF and the sub level was very high in comparison to the LF (75dB) so I turned the sub level way down to get 75dB. This caused the ARC results on the charts to be even lower, 65dB now.
> 
> 
> Now if I increase the sub level to get the ARC charts at 75dB there is a huge difference in trim levels in the ARC solution, the speakers end up as high as +10dB while the sub is -10dB.
> 
> 
> Anythoughts on this? Maybe my SPL meter is out of calibration?



Put a fresh battery in your meter and try again.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TboneofLA* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So I increased the test level to 4db and turn the sub level down a little to get the following result.
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to ignore my SPL meter for now.



Yes, it looks like your meter is off. A weak battery will do this. Also pick the meter range that puts 75dB in the middle of the range. The ranges above and below that will be wrong for 75 by a few dB. For the Radio Shack digital meter, that means use the 70dB range, slow response, and "C weighting, pointing straight up at ARC mic position #1.


It looks like you originally had Test Level reduced 6dB for the old bug -- thus raising it is now right -- but your meter isn't giving a good reading to confirm that.

--Bob


----------



## TboneofLA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19145781
> 
> 
> Yes, it looks like your meter is off. A weak battery will do this. Also pick the meter range that puts 75dB in the middle of the range. The ranges above and below that will be wrong for 75 by a few dB. For the Radio Shack digital meter, that means use the 70dB range, slow response, and "C weighting, pointing straight up at ARC mic position #1.
> 
> 
> It looks like you originally had Test Level reduced 6dB for the old bug -- thus raising it is now right -- but your meter isn't giving a good reading to confirm that.
> 
> --Bob



Hopefully it's just the meter. I'll have to pick up a 9V next time I'm out. I don't keep extras in the house any more. Only the smoke alarms and the SPL meter use them... one makes noise ... one measures it... what a conspiracy.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TboneofLA* /forum/post/19147920
> 
> 
> Hopefully it's just the meter. I'll have to pick up a 9V next time I'm out. I don't keep extras in the house any more. Only the smoke alarms and the SPL meter use them... one makes noise ... one measures it... what a conspiracy.



They must be connected by something Quantum









John


----------



## netroamer

I have not performed a calibration of my system since May with the then current version of ARC.


I recently sold my first D2v and took delivery of a newer production run D2v. It's a long story, don't ask. Instead of uploading my previous units' settings, I programmed this unit from scratch.


I set the master volume to 75db and balanced my two sub-woofers, using their volume controls, to achieve a combined level of 75db.


The major difference is the charts that show my volume levels well below 70db.

As the system volume levels seem correct, I am assuming this is still a software error as evident by the actual level settings.


They are set at:


Test Level: -7.50db

Front Left: -3.5db

Center: +1.5db

Front Right: -2.0db

Surround Right: +1.5db

Rear Right: +2.5db

Rear Left: +1.0db

Surround Left: +3.5db

Movie Sub: 0.0db

Music Sub: 0.0db


One concern about the following charts is the sub-woofer chart of the 2.4.17 run. Everything in the room is the same, but the current chart has all this activity above 500hz that ARC ignores but was not present in the May run with the older version. If this is just a program glitch, that's OK, but if ARC has to apply resources to address this, then it is a concern.


Here are the charts:


Comments welcome.


Thanks,

 

ARC -5k-05-16-10 Page 1.pdf 84.6650390625k . file

 

ARC-5k-05-16-10 Page 2.pdf 82.9345703125k . file

 

ARC Target 09-04-10-5k.pdf 91.71484375k . file

 

ARC 09-04-10-5k-Pg1.pdf 82.150390625k . file

 

ARC 09-04-10-5k-Pg2.pdf 84.3681640625k . file


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/19148173
> 
> 
> I have not performed a calibration of my system since May with the then current version of ARC.
> 
> 
> I recently sold my first D2v and took delivery of a newer production run D2v. It's a long story, don't ask. Instead of uploading my previous units' settings, I programmed this unit from scratch.
> 
> 
> I set the master volume to 75db and balanced my two sub-woofers, using their volume controls, to achieve a combined level of 75db.
> 
> 
> The major difference is the charts that show my volume levels well below 70db.
> 
> As the system volume levels seem correct, I am assuming this is still a software error as evident by the actual level settings.
> 
> 
> They are set at:
> 
> 
> Test Level: -7.50db
> 
> Front Left: -3.5db
> 
> Center: +1.5db
> 
> Front Right: -2.0db
> 
> Surround Right: +1.5db
> 
> Rear Right: +2.5db
> 
> Rear Left: +1.0db
> 
> Surround Left: +3.5db
> 
> Movie Sub: 0.0db
> 
> Music Sub: 0.0db
> 
> 
> One concern about the following charts is the sub-woofer chart of the 2.4.17 run. Everything in the room is the same, but the current chart has all this activity above 500hz that ARC ignores but was not present in the May run with the older version. If this is just a program glitch, that's OK, but if ARC has to apply resources to address this, then it is a concern.
> 
> 
> Here are the charts:
> 
> 
> Comments welcome.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



Your sub measurements are normal for this version of ARC. You'll notice your sub corrected curve looks flatter down to 20 and perhaps below with this version as well. Mine looks very much like yours. The charts look very good but how does it sound? We have all noticed the better correction below 5K so you only have to listen to see it results in better sound.

John


----------



## J. FRICANO

Hello All any sonic advantage downloading and remeasuring with ARC .17 over .15? Thanks John.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

netroamer,


Double check how you set your levels prior to the ARC Measurement and put a fresh battery in your SPL meter. Your sweep tones are about 10dB too low. Here's a refresher:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post18914184 


Also remember that even though you have 2 subs, you must set your speaker configuration to "1 Sub" when using ARC.


The higher frequency stuff you are seeing in the sub curve is just noise -- 30dB and more below the solution. Completely ignorable. You are only seeing it because your solution is so low in volume.


The high frequency roll-off in your Measured curves is more disturbing. Let's see if it is still there when you get the sweep tone volume up closer to where it is supposed to be.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19148996
> 
> 
> netroamer,
> 
> 
> Double check how you set your levels prior to the ARC Measurement and put a fresh battery in your SPL meter. Your sweep tones are about 10dB too low. Here's a refresher:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post18914184
> 
> 
> Also remember that even though you have 2 subs, you must set your speaker configuration to "1 Sub" when using ARC.
> 
> 
> The higher frequency stuff you are seeing in the sub curve is just noise -- 30dB and more below the solution. Completely ignorable. You are only seeing it because your solution is so low in volume.
> 
> 
> The high frequency roll-off in your Measured curves is more disturbing. Let's see if it is still there when you get the sweep tone volume up closer to where it is supposed to be.
> 
> --Bob



I'm getting the same roll off at high freq with my last measurement with the different mic I used, without any sonic difference. Something weird going on with the charts. I'm using the 5k freq. correction.

John


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19148996
> 
> 
> netroamer,
> 
> 
> Double check how you set your levels prior to the ARC Measurement and put a fresh battery in your SPL meter. Your sweep tones are about 10dB too low. Here's a refresher:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post18914184
> 
> 
> Also remember that even though you have 2 subs, you must set your speaker configuration to "1 Sub" when using ARC.
> 
> 
> The higher frequency stuff you are seeing in the sub curve is just noise -- 30dB and more below the solution. Completely ignorable. You are only seeing it because your solution is so low in volume.
> 
> 
> The high frequency roll-off in your Measured curves is more disturbing. Let's see if it is still there when you get the sweep tone volume up closer to where it is supposed to be.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I use a calibrated Audio Control SA3050a RTA in the SPL mode set to slow. No Battery. It showed a level of 82.5 to 83db when setting the test level before I lowered it by 7.5db to 75.0db. The readings appear to accurate as the subs that were balanced to 75db have 0.0db correction in ARC. Subs were set to one in the speaker setup menu.


This D2v is new, out-of-the box, and was never calibrated so all the settings were "0".


ALSO, THE VOLUME AT MY PREFERRED DEFAULT OF -15.0 DB SOUNDS NORMAL AFTER RUNNING ARC.


Thanks,


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19148904
> 
> 
> Hello All any sonic advantage downloading and remeasuring with ARC .17 over .15? Thanks John.



Not that I can notice. 2.4.17 was supposed to correct the high volume levels on the charts but I have found and issue with one measurement I took.

John


----------



## barhoram

D2 owner w/ ARC and I'm thinking about adding a second subwoofer to my setup to help with the response. if you remember, I tried my current sub (velodyne DD-15) behind my acoustically transparent screen, but the results weren't good, so I moved it back to it's original position on the 1/3 of the way down the right wall. Since I'm using ARC, I have the EQ on the DD-15 turned off.


Any suggestons on a second sub?? I'm thinking since I'm not using the DD's built in EQ or mic, getting another DD-15 may be overkill. Is there a velodyne or other sub that's similar to the DD-15 without the EQ or microphone expense?


Anyone familliar with adding a HSU mid bass sub to an ARC setup?

http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/mbm-12.html 


My thoughts are that perhaps with a second sub, I could possibly get the (big) DD-15 behind the screen and either put the second (possibly smaller) sub where the DD-15 sits today or even behind the first row of seats to the side and more out of the way.


----------



## J. FRICANO

Thank you Jayray. The previous solution was louder than 4.1 so I guess I will try ..17 and hope for the best. Thanks again , John.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19149305
> 
> 
> I'm getting the same roll off at high freq with my last measurement with the different mic I used, without any sonic difference. Something weird going on with the charts. I'm using the 5k freq. correction.
> 
> John



I sent all my data to Piero at Anthem Tech Support asking for comments.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/19151823
> 
> 
> I sent all my data to Piero at Anthem Tech Support asking for comments.



I'll be checking with Nick on Tuesday if I get a chance.

John


----------



## TheLion

Hello!


I have a question regarding how ARC deals with bass response/roll-off.


I will use up to 4 high performance sealed subwoofers (Seaton Submersive XL) in my system and I want to extend their low-frequency in-room response as low as practical (given the available headroom).


ARC will flatten my frequency response. But how low does it do that? I will have enough headroom for a flat response down to 10Hz. The measured -3db point will depend on placement and room gain - so it is variable.


Will ARC flatten my response down to the measured -3db point? Which roll-off curve does it apply below that? Can I manually edit the low point of flat response (eg. my measured -3db point due to lacking room gain is 13Hz - can I manually choose to EQ flat down to 10Hz?)?


How does the "room gain" parameter interact with this? Does "room gain" act like a shelve filter? If I choose 3 db room gain - which frequency range will be elevated 3 db? Down to which frequency is "room gain" applied?


Thank you. I am trying to decide if a D2V is right for my application (or if I need to employ some external PEQ unit).


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I last ran ARC with 2.4.12 and decided to hold off until I saw a beta that looked promising. I just ran 2.4.17 and here are the results:



Regards,


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/19153080
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I last ran ARC with 2.4.12 and decided to hold off until I saw a beta that looked promising. I just ran 2.4.17 and here are the results:
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Your charts looks good; but, how does it sound?


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19153105
> 
> 
> Your charts looks good; but, how does it sound?



Greetings,


So far it sounds excellent..











Regards,


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/19153308
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> So far it sounds excellent..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,

Your sub looks great. Other speakers look very good as well. Have you tried the default 5K? I have played around a lot and the 5K sounds smoother for music and excellent for movies. I cannot say anything above 5K has sounded better. Nick suggested this and even though the curves don't look smooth to 12K or 15K, the highs are still as good and perhaps less shrillness. I think it's worth a try.

John


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19153388
> 
> 
> Ralph,
> 
> Your sub looks great. Other speakers look very good as well. Have you tried the default 5K? I have played around a lot and the 5K sounds smoother for music and excellent for movies. I cannot say anything above 5K has sounded better. Nick suggested this and even though the curves don't look smooth to 12K or 15K, the highs are still as good and perhaps less shrillness. I think it's worth a try.
> 
> John



Greetings,


John, had it at 5k with 2.4.12. I am pleased with 12k and haven't experienced any issue with shrillness. I will try 5k in a few days.


Regards,


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/19153522
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> John, had it at 5k with 2.4.12. I am pleased with 12k and haven't experienced any issue with shrillness. I will try 5k in a few days.
> 
> 
> Regards,



I'll be interested in your observations.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/19153080
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I last ran ARC with 2.4.12 and decided to hold off until I saw a beta that looked promising. I just ran 2.4.17 and here are the results:
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph:


Do you have room treatments in your theater? Your speaker-room response is very flat (pre-ARC) and wonder why you even need ARC, especially for the fronts?


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19153640
> 
> 
> Ralph:
> 
> 
> Do you have room treatments in your theater? Your speaker-room response is very flat (pre-ARC) and wonder why you even need ARC, especially for the fronts?



Greetings,


No room treatments. Click on the link in my signature to see my room. I am initmately familiar with my room and found what I consider to be the optimum placement for my speakers.


Regards,


----------



## LesPaul




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19149305
> 
> 
> I'm getting the same roll off at high freq with my last measurement with the different mic I used, without any sonic difference. Something weird going on with the charts. I'm using the 5k freq. correction.
> 
> John



I am having the same problem.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/19155170
> 
> 
> I am having the same problem.



considering how it sounds, I'm not worried about it. Highs are right on so if I don't look at the charts now, maybe I won't think about it









John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19155291
> 
> 
> considering how it sounds, I'm not worried about it. Highs are right on so if I don't look at the charts now, maybe I won't think about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



+1. When it comes to sound, it's not about what you see; but, it's about what you hear. Even though the charts drop off severely after 10KHz, the highs are still very much present at least they are in my setup.


----------



## JimP

Has anyone bothered to confirm the high frequency dropoff with REW or other software to see if its actually dropping off or maybe a fluke in the charting program?


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/19155495
> 
> 
> Has anyone bothered to confirm the high frequency dropoff with REW or other software to see if its actually dropping off or maybe a fluke in the charting program?



I ran ARC .17 with all balanced outputs. Did anyone else see the low volume levels on their charts in a balanced configuration?


Thanks,


----------



## RMK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/19156204
> 
> 
> I ran ARC .17 with all balanced outputs. Did anyone else see the low volume levels on their charts in a balanced configuration?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



John,


It's not just you. I experienced the same problem with .17. The .17 charts were in the 60 - 70 db range despite zeroing all the speaker levels and using the same noise level that I used in .16. I also use balanced connections. I will send my files to Anthem for their review. I am sticking with .16 for now.


Robert


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RMK* /forum/post/19156330
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> It's not just you. I experienced the same problem with .17. The .17 charts were in the 60 - 70 db range despite zeroing all the speaker levels and using the same noise level that I used in .16. I also use balanced connections. I will send my files to Anthem for their review. I am sticking with .16 for now.
> 
> 
> Robert



I had to set my test volume level to +6.5 in order to achieve 75db on the charts for .17.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul* /forum/post/19155170
> 
> 
> I am having the same problem.



Turns out that I didn't put the mic file into my Anthem directory. This could have caused the 6dB increase on my last measurment. I'll do it again to see if that was the cause.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19156547
> 
> 
> I had to set my test volume level to +6.5 in order to achieve 75db on the charts for .17.



My test level was at 0 dB calibrated with my RS SPL meter.

John


----------



## jayray

My new meaurement today came out at 75 dB and there are no dips on the speakers which I got when the calc file was not there with the diff mic. So all is where it should be now. Not sure why others are getting these results. I'm using 2.4.17

John


----------



## Texas steve

John, so how does it sound? Are you still sticking with the 5K?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19156848
> 
> 
> My new meaurement today came out at 75 dB and there are no dips on the speakers which I got when the calc file was not there with the diff mic. So all is where it should be now. Not sure why others are getting these results. I'm using 2.4.17
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> John, so how does it sound? Are you still sticking with the 5K?



Steve,

I'm still using 5K and sound for music is smoother. Still testing movies. Will report very soon.

John


----------



## netroamer

Here is the response I received from Piero when I queried him on the low volume issue, the upper end sub garbage, and the upper end roll-off.



> Quote:
> Hi John,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the infoFist things first, what does ARC sound like with the new processor and are you using the latest ARC beta 2.4.17? You certainly have the levels set correctly, What I do see in your results (of course not listening to your system) is quite a bit of correction. I'll bet that some boominess has disappeared. The stuff above 500z in the sub measurement could be resonances (a grille vibrating for ex.) If you notice when the sweep tone runs on the sub channel, it still sweeps higher up in the frequency response, just that ARC does not calculate anything above about 500hz (see flat line in the chart). The roll off you see is quite natural, this is the proper response of your room & speakers. There is less energy in the higher frequency spectrum, and some have come to think that this is a loss of some kind. It's not. ARC will not mess with the speakers natural dispersion and response. Given that we are using an omni directional mic, it's most effective to 5k, where correction is most detectable.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps, but if you have more thoughts please let me know.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Piero



Here was my response:



> Quote:
> Hi Piero,
> 
> 
> The system sounds good.
> 
> 
> I used 2.4.17
> 
> 
> You might be interested to know that if I take an old ARC run with the same speaker array and position, the bass garbage, not present in the original graphs, is created by the newer versions of ARC using the old data. That would point to a quirk in ARC.
> 
> 
> I doubt if the Paradigm Sub1's would have a loose grill.
> 
> 
> The important question to me is the low volume levels across the board in this ARC run. The actual output level, based on my preferred setting of -15.0db is the same to my senses as it always has been with either processor. So why did ARC graph the levels so low?
> 
> 
> FYI...I am outputting all via the balanced outputs.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19156848
> 
> 
> My new meaurement today came out at 75 dB and there are no dips on the speakers which I got when the calc file was not there with the diff mic. So all is where it should be now. Not sure why others are getting these results. I'm using 2.4.17
> 
> John



What did you have to set your test volume level to in order to get 75db? Also, what are your speaker trims looking like? With my test volume level set to +6.5, my speaker trims are -2.0 to +2.0, and that includes the sub.


----------



## studlygoorite

I re-ran ARC today with .17 trying to get more punchy bass as I have moved my subs just a little. I think they look a little better in the 60 to 100 hz range but I still need to improve, any ideas on what I should do next, maybe continue moving the subs by a few inches each time? Note the volume levels with .17 as all my volume trims are between 0 and plus 3.


John


----------



## studlygoorite

Also, if anyone remembers my gripe with the HDMI Handshake problems with my video not coming in all the time and sometimes the audio, I have replaced my Canadian Dish receiver and that must have been the culprit as I am no longer having any issues..........so far.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19161230
> 
> 
> Also, if anyone remembers my gripe with the HDMI Handshake problems with my video not coming in all the time and sometimes the audio, I have replaced my Canadian Dish receiver and that must have been the culprit as I am no longer having any issues..........so far.



Excellent










John


----------



## jayray

I have spent quite some time testing my 5k freq. correction and have decided to keep it there. I would recommend people try it and then decide what

sounds best, but to not try it, ie. the default of what ARC decided, would be to deny the fact it is based on hundreds of diff room measurements and that is why I believe it is head and shoulders above other correction systems. Just my two cents









John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19163444
> 
> 
> I have spent quite some time testing my 5k freq. correction and have decided to keep it there. I would recommend people try it and then decide what
> 
> sounds best, but to not try it, ie. the default of what ARC decided, would be to deny the fact it is based on hundreds of diff room measurements and that is why I believe it is head and shoulders above other correction systems. Just my two cents
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



+1. Like I said in one of my earlier post, I'm going to trust what ARC came up with and not change anything. I have been listening to the ARC Solution for a while now, and I must admit that I am really enjoying what I am hearing. The overall sound is fuller. So far, I'm a happy camper.




























So, I add my two cents to jayray two cents, and now we have four cents.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19163444
> 
> 
> I have spent quite some time testing my 5k freq. correction and have decided to keep it there. I would recommend people try it and then decide what
> 
> sounds best, but to not try it, ie. the default of what ARC decided, would be to deny the fact it is based on hundreds of diff room measurements and that is why I believe it is head and shoulders above other correction systems. Just my two cents
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Greetings,


John, I am now using 5k. I haven't noticed a appreciable difference in the quality going from 12k to 5k. Each sounds quite good. I will more than likely stay with 5k.



Regards,


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/19163629
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> John, I am now using 5k. I haven't noticed a appreciable difference in the quality going from 12k to 5k. Each sounds quite good. I will more than likely stay with 5k.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



According to Anthem, anything above 5KHz is not 100% guaranteed. That's why they strongly recommend not going above 5KHz.


----------



## barrygordon

This a little off topic, but I do not see an Anthem genral issue forum, id there One?.


Somtimes (about 5% of the time) when my system (Anthem 50v) starts up the volume is very muted. The volume shows -15 DB which is correct and the volume is not muted. The volume knob has no effect. If I just power off the unit (not unplug it, just put it in standby) and then turn it on again everything is then fine!


Any one have any thoughts??


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This a little off topic, but I do not see an Anthem genral issue forum, id there One?.
> 
> 
> Somtimes (about 5% of the time) when my system (Anthem 50v) starts up the volume is very muted. The volume shows -15 DB which is correct and the volume is not muted. The volume knob has no effect. If I just power off the unit (not unplug it, just put it in standby) and then turn it on again everything is then fine!
> 
> 
> Any one have any thoughts??



I have had this happen only a couple of times, very intermittent. Email Anthem tech. I get this low volume with test tones intermittently as well. This thread serves the same purpose, just not named as such.

John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19157960
> 
> 
> I re-ran ARC today with .17 trying to get more punchy bass as I have moved my subs just a little. I think they look a little better in the 60 to 100 hz range but I still need to improve, any ideas on what I should do next, maybe continue moving the subs by a few inches each time? Note the volume levels with .17 as all my volume trims are between 0 and plus 3.
> 
> 
> John



No tweaking of the cutoffs or any suggestions?


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This a little off topic, but I do not see an Anthem genral issue forum, id there One?.
> 
> 
> Somtimes (about 5% of the time) when my system (Anthem 50v) starts up the volume is very muted. The volume shows -15 DB which is correct and the volume is not muted. The volume knob has no effect. If I just power off the unit (not unplug it, just put it in standby) and then turn it on again everything is then fine!
> 
> 
> Any one have any thoughts??



Barry this is the correct thread. What inputs are you using when this happens? I have issues when I try to watch my satellite and then switch to my home theater pc. I get very garble or muted sound. Now this only happens in my zone 2 scenario and I simply power on main and the sound returns for zone 2. It's a glitch I have lived with until tech support can come up with a solution.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/19163679
> 
> 
> This a little off topic, but I do not see an Anthem genral issue forum, id there One?.
> 
> 
> Somtimes (about 5% of the time) when my system (Anthem 50v) starts up the volume is very muted. The volume shows -15 DB which is correct and the volume is not muted. The volume knob has no effect. If I just power off the unit (not unplug it, just put it in standby) and then turn it on again everything is then fine!
> 
> 
> Any one have any thoughts??



Are you starting up with a source that requires an HDMI handshake? If yes, try to power on with an analog source like FM to check for a consistent volume level at start-up.


----------



## barrygordon

Thanks for the replies. My theater always powers up with the source being a DVR (Samsung). The DVR is always on. The output of the DVR is Component video and s/PDIF optical audio. I could have the theater startup with the FM tuner, and then switch it I guess. When I start the AVP I immediatley mute it and then un mute it as soon as all components are ready, the big delay being the Projector. While it is very intermittant and simple to correct for the price that Anthem gets it just should not be happening. Oh well I guess that is the state of the High End world.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/19164610
> 
> 
> Thanks for the replies. My theater always powers up with the source being a DVR (Samsung). The DVR is always on. The output of the DVR is Component video and s/PDIF optical audio. I could have the theater startup with the FM tuner, and then switch it I guess. When I start the AVP I immediatley mute it and then un mute it as soon as all components are ready, the big delay being the Projector. While it is very intermittant and simple to correct for the price that Anthem gets it just should not be happening. Oh well I guess that is the state of the High End world.



I do not know your setup or components but have you thought about using the adjustable delay on the triggers and having your power amp power up after everything else.


----------



## barrygordon

re powering up the power amp. Why should it matter? it is triggered by the Anthem, but why should it need a delay. It is a one way path and the anthem has no idea if the power amp is on or off.


Do you think the anthem is crowbarring its output as the amp powers up and is not in a steady state condition? If that is your though wouldn't you want to power up the power amp first?


I am pretty sure it is an anthem issue but am always willing to learn. Hopefully the Anthem team will be at Cedia


----------



## hodeyp

having 2 young children - dolby volume is very useful for me as i find I am always having to listen to music or play movies at reduced levels. Typically I listen at about the -25dB to -30dB level.


For movies, I really like the sound after dolby volume processing, it feels much more cinematic and I get to hear a lot more of the soundtrack than i would with it switched off. I find the best result for me is dolby volume on (not cinema) with leveling at 5.


I am still struggling with music though. I have set DV to On, and have tried leveling from off to max. I am using stereo having never been a fan of the surround music formats. I find the best result is with leveling off where the music is excellent. However, male vocals always seem a little muffled whatever leveling I set. It is quite a distraction and is the only issue I face when listening to music. Female vocals are fine. I am far from an expert here but this sounds like there is some anomaly in my room at a very narrow frequency? or is this just an artefact of the DV processing? Last piiece of info, I have setup ARC using the latest beta version.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/19164857
> 
> 
> re powering up the power amp. Why should it matter? it is triggered by the Anthem, but why should it need a delay. It is a one way path and the anthem has no idea if the power amp is on or off.
> 
> 
> Do you think the anthem is crowbarring its output as the amp powers up and is not in a steady state condition? If that is your though wouldn't you want to power up the power amp first?
> 
> 
> I am pretty sure it is an anthem issue but am always willing to learn. Hopefully the Anthem team will be at Cedia



This may sound like an exercise instead of an answer, but the next time the volume is low, try to disconnect each HDMI source. If the volume does not change, start to reconnect each source to determine if a new handshake, as a result of the reconnect, returns the volume. If yes, you have, at least, isolated the source of the volume problem. I have had a similar problem with the D2v when switching from one HDMI source to my TIVO. The audio disappears and a new forced handshake, or sometimes a power off/on, is required to restore it.


----------



## silentbobandjay

Just completed my theater and performed first ARC with version 2.4. Looking at my results, are there any suggestions prior to remeasuring with the latest beta version? Thanks again for all the help everyone has provided!


----------



## Texas steve

+1 make in a nickel!!










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19163498
> 
> 
> +1. Like I said in one of my earlier post, I'm going to trust what ARC came up with and not change anything. I have been listening to the ARC Solution for a while now, and I must admit that I am really enjoying what I am hearing. The overall sound is fuller. So far, I'm a happy camper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I add my two cents to jayray two cents, and now we have four cents.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> +1 make in a nickel!!



I could make a lot of money if this takes off









John


----------



## J. FRICANO

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jayray* 
Not that I can notice. 2.4.17 was supposed to correct the high volume levels on the charts but I have found and issue with one measurement I took.

John
Hello Everyone, Here are my most recent, remeasured, ARC Graphs using v2.4.17. The previous high volume results from 2.4.15 are now eliminated. I too am using 5K as max freq. as it sounds pretty darned good. The higher frequencies sound more relaxed and natural and the bass is very nice and tight. For some reason ARC chose a 80Hz. cutoff for my sub which I raised to 100 as well as a room correction value if 1.1...for movies and 1.0...for music, which I also raised to 2.3 for movies and 2.0 for music. All other parameters have been left as is. Will you please critique my results and offer your valued input? Graphs are attached. Thank you for your time and consideration , John Fricano.

 

ARC Custom Targets 09-10.doc 106.5k . file

 

ARC Targets#1 09-10.doc 93k . file

 

ARC Targets#2 9-10.doc 93k . file


----------



## J. FRICANO

By the way, Is Bob on vacation?? Haven't heard a peep out of him recently?? Maybe testing the new receivers??


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19170773
> 
> 
> Hello Everyone, Here are my most recent, remeasured, ARC Graphs using v2.4.17. The previous high volume results from 2.4.15 are now eliminated. I too am using 5K as max freq. as it sounds pretty darned good. The higher frequencies sound more relaxed and natural and the bass is very nice and tight. For some reason ARC chose a 80Hz. cutoff for my sub which I raised to 100 as well as a room correction value if 1.1...for movies and 1.0...for music, which I also raised to 2.3 for movies and 2.0 for music. All other parameters have been left as is. Will you please critique my results and offer your valued input? Graphs are attached. Thank you for your time and consideration , John Fricano.



Your curves look very good and if it sounds good you are there, audio nervana.







Have you tried the default for the sub crossover? If not try it and compare. I used to use the 120 even though ARC set it to 105. Now I use 105 and it sounds terrific. Just a suggestion.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19170922
> 
> 
> Your curves look very good and if it sounds good you are there, audio nervana.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried the default for the sub crossover? If not try it and compare. I used to use the 120 even though ARC set it to 105. Now I use 105 and it sounds terrific. Just a suggestion.
> 
> John



I second jayray, and add to just leave everything to what ARC decided and give that a listen to for a while. I did that, and I am glad that I did. It really sounds good. After listening to what ARC decided for you for a while and you decide that you don't like what you hear, then start modifying things from there.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19170814
> 
> 
> By the way, Is Bob on vacation?? Haven't heard a peep out of him recently?? Maybe testing the new receivers??



Maybe he's on a well deserved vacation.


----------



## J. FRICANO

Thank you for all of your replies. I will auto detect and use ARC's defaults for a while as you suggest. Thanks agai. For your expertise. We all appreciate it on this forum. John.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *silentbobandjay* /forum/post/19167923
> 
> 
> Just completed my theater and performed first ARC with version 2.4. Looking at my results, are there any suggestions prior to remeasuring with the latest beta version? Thanks again for all the help everyone has provided!



About your measurements, you should check if you right surround does not have a defective midrange speaker. There is a 10db dip at 1.5KHz that does not happen on the other speaders.


----------



## silentbobandjay




> Quote:
> About your measurements, you should check if you right surround does not have a defective midrange speaker. There is a 10db dip at 1.5KHz that does not happen on the other speaders.



Thanks for the response! I am very new to the whole home theater experience. What would be the best (and easiest) way to verify whether or not the speaker is defective?


----------



## NOCAL

I am getting a Bryston 4B-SST into my system and wanted to know if anybody had *real life* experience with a good interconnect-RCA or XLR. I have the 50v, but I imagine the D2 would provide the same experience.


I searched the forum but could find no discussions.


Thanks for any insight.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *silentbobandjay* /forum/post/19172059
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response! I am very new to the whole home theater experience. What would be the best (and easiest) way to verify whether or not the speaker is defective?



Just put your ear up to it and listen for sound, if there is sound you are probably good, if you hear sound that has crackling or some other anomoly then you may have a problem.

John


----------



## stieger

Hey guys,


Need your input/help on something.


I have an opportunity to either pick up a AVM50V (with arc), OR get a D2 with arc, but no "v" series / HD audio processing.


Which would you suggest, considering I'm only using it in multi-channel, home theater. I also watch some football games and other DTV shows, but NO 2-channel.


I appreciate your help. Just not sure if the AVM50v with the HD-audio processing will sound as-good or better than the D2 with arc.


I am currently using a PS3 as my DVD player, sending out LPCM, but would go bitstream if I go with the AVM50V.


Thanks for your help all!


Stieger


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stieger* /forum/post/19172824
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> Need your input/help on something.
> 
> 
> I have an opportunity to either pick up a AVM50V (with arc), OR get a D2 with arc, but no "v" series / HD audio processing.
> 
> 
> Which would you suggest, considering I'm only using it in multi-channel, home theater. I also watch some football games and other DTV shows, but NO 2-channel.
> 
> 
> I appreciate your help. Just not sure if the AVM50v with the HD-audio processing will sound as-good or better than the D2 with arc.
> 
> 
> I am currently using a PS3 as my DVD player, sending out LPCM, but would go bitstream if I go with the AVM50V.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help all!
> 
> 
> Stieger



Video is the same on BOTH units.


As for Audio - it depends on what speakers and amps you have.


----------



## jayray

Final Beta v3.0 is now on the password protected page. This will be the version posted on the Anthem website as official. Change notes since ARC v2.4 are:


v3.0


As there are major changes since v2.4 a new Automatic-mode measurement is strongly recommended.


1. Added speaker positioning helper under Advanced mode / Tools / Quick Measure. This sweeps the selected speaker continuously to instantly show uncorrected frequency response graph. This can be most useful for finding a location for the subwoofer, since bass resonances vary greatly according to speaker positioning. Approximately ten sweeps are needed before graph is shown - after that update is live.


NOTE: Quick Measure resets crossover and level calibration setup menus. If you won't be following Quick Measure with a full ARC procedure, and your existing crossover and level settings in the setup menu will be needed afterward, save or record them first.


2. Where applicable, refined response below 20 Hz (not shown on graph).


3. Refined upper-frequency measurement. The default 5 kHz correction range is still the recommended one - experimentation with the system is still the only way to determine whether a different setting would be beneficial. (Note - recalibration data is now embedded).


4. Added advanced controls in Targets panel for the sub's low end rolloff. ARC's auto-detected settings are as always the only ones that are generally recommended - manual overrides are intended for use only with the proper tools and knowledge. Don't forget that ARC is a measurement tool and contains plenty of knowledge!


5. Further to item 4, added Flat correction range option when speakers are set to full range in Targets. To access Flat setting, select Full Range X-Over, then set frequency lower than 25 Hz or type "f" in the frequency window. (Also remember that typing "n" in frequency window disables the speaker in that configuration, as long as it is not Fronts, without discarding the measurement in case you would like to use it later).


6. Room Gain is limited to 4 dB maximum (previously 6 dB). If ARC is auto-detecting no room gain, it is because the speakers' low frequency response does not result in room gain, or because bass traps have (intentionally) removed it, or because the setting is spacious such that there is no room gain.


7. Adjusted graph levels by 6 dB (this makes no difference to EQ).


8. Added compatibility for MRX 300/500/700 receivers. If loading a file that was creating using AVM, Statement D, or MRX 900 into one of these, ARC will fail the upload then ask if you would like to convert the file to MRX 300/500/700 format to allow loading. ARC for these AVR models is the same as ARC for the AVPs and MRX 900 except that less DSP power is available to flatten response, i.e. the green curve won't match the target as closely. The difference depends on how much EQing ARC is called upon to perform for the room/speaker combination and unless there are severe room problems, the difference won't be very big. You can compare by giving the new file a different name and opening the files in separate windows.


Nick mentioned there are no changes to the algorithms so install but new measurement is not needed. For anyone still using the 2.4 official version, when 3.0 appears on the Anthem website or you choose to download from the tech page, do a new measurement.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19172885
> 
> 
> Final Beta v3.0 is now on the password protected page. This will be the version posted on the Anthem website as official. Change notes since ARC v2.4 are:
> 
> 
> v3.0
> 
> 
> As there are major changes since v2.4 a new Automatic-mode measurement is strongly recommended.
> 
> 
> 1. Added speaker positioning helper under Advanced mode / Tools / Quick Measure. This sweeps the selected speaker continuously to instantly show uncorrected frequency response graph. This can be most useful for finding a location for the subwoofer, since bass resonances vary greatly according to speaker positioning. Approximately ten sweeps are needed before graph is shown - after that update is live.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Quick Measure resets crossover and level calibration setup menus. If you won't be following Quick Measure with a full ARC procedure, and your existing crossover and level settings in the setup menu will be needed afterward, save or record them first.
> 
> 
> 2. Where applicable, refined response below 20 Hz (not shown on graph).
> 
> 
> 3. Refined upper-frequency measurement. The default 5 kHz correction range is still the recommended one - experimentation with the system is still the only way to determine whether a different setting would be beneficial. (Note - recalibration data is now embedded).
> 
> 
> 4. Added advanced controls in Targets panel for the sub's low end rolloff. ARC's auto-detected settings are as always the only ones that are generally recommended - manual overrides are intended for use only with the proper tools and knowledge. Don't forget that ARC is a measurement tool and contains plenty of knowledge!
> 
> 
> 5. Further to item 4, added Flat correction range option when speakers are set to full range in Targets. To access Flat setting, select Full Range X-Over, then set frequency lower than 25 Hz or type "f" in the frequency window. (Also remember that typing "n" in frequency window disables the speaker in that configuration, as long as it is not Fronts, without discarding the measurement in case you would like to use it later).
> 
> 
> 6. Room Gain is limited to 4 dB maximum (previously 6 dB). If ARC is auto-detecting no room gain, it is because the speakers' low frequency response does not result in room gain, or because bass traps have (intentionally) removed it, or because the setting is spacious such that there is no room gain.
> 
> 
> 7. Adjusted graph levels by 6 dB (this makes no difference to EQ).
> 
> 
> 8. Added compatibility for MRX 300/500/700 receivers. If loading a file that was creating using AVM, Statement D, or MRX 900 into one of these, ARC will fail the upload then ask if you would like to convert the file to MRX 300/500/700 format to allow loading. ARC for these AVR models is the same as ARC for the AVPs and MRX 900 except that less DSP power is available to flatten response, i.e. the green curve won't match the target as closely. The difference depends on how much EQing ARC is called upon to perform for the room/speaker combination and unless there are severe room problems, the difference won't be very big. You can compare by giving the new file a different name and opening the files in separate windows.
> 
> 
> Nick mentioned there are no changes to the algorithms so install but new measurement is not needed. For anyone still using the 2.4 official version, when 3.0 appears on the Anthem website or you choose to download from the tech page, do a new measurement.
> 
> John



The options for D2 and AVM50 are not available to be selected during the install. Are we suppose to select D2v and AVM50v?


----------



## stieger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19172881
> 
> 
> Video is the same on BOTH units.
> 
> 
> As for Audio - it depends on what speakers and amps you have.



I have triad inroom gold LCRs that are very nice, and the remaining are triad monitors or inwall surrounds + a VMPS "larger" sub.


I am running 1 crown 402DXLS pro amp for L/R, and a carver 705x 125wpc for the remainder. Will probably get another Crown for the center. Sub has it's own 1000watt amp. room is 13ft wide x 25ft deep x 8.5ft high and room treated already....


Thx for your help!


Stieger


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19173036
> 
> 
> The options for D2 and AVM50 are not available to be selected during the install. Are we suppose to select D2v and AVM50v?



The selections were for the manual you wanted to be included in your folder. This has no effect on ARC in any way. Manuals haven't changed since 2008 so pick any or none of them if you already have an updated manual.

John


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19172885
> 
> 
> Final Beta v3.0 is now on the password protected page. This will be the version posted on the Anthem website as official. Change notes since ARC v2.4 are:
> 
> 
> v3.0
> 
> 
> As there are major changes since v2.4 a new Automatic-mode measurement is strongly recommended.
> 
> 
> Nick mentioned there are no changes to the algorithms so install but new measurement is not needed.
> 
> 
> For anyone still using the 2.4 official version, when 3.0 appears on the Anthem website or you choose to download from the tech page, do a new measurement.
> 
> John



So is a new measurement required or not? I am confused by the three statements in your post.


Thanks,


Mike


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/19173332
> 
> 
> So is a new measurement required or not? I am confused by the three statements in your post.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Mike



If you have 2.4.17 then you don't need to remeasure. If you have 2.4 or any of the betas up to 2.4.16 you should.There are a lot of changes since 2.4 that you will really like. But from 2.4.17 beta version there are no changes except the version number. Hope that helps.

John


----------



## stieger

Discussion I just had with my dealer was whether or not the D2 would sound more like "HD audio" on non-HD material - like DTV or SD DVDs, in comparison to the AVM50v when not watching a blu ray disc.


Anybody have any thoughts.


Another way of putting what I'm saying above would be to consider:

$500 receiver that decodes TrueHD and DTS Master vs.....


A Meridian 861 processor (which does not have the capability of decoding the HD codecs) with outboard amps playing the equivalent SD multi-channel material as the $500 TrueHD and DTS processor above.


Argument / hypothesis: the Meridian would sound better / "more" like HD audio because of it's components, etc., vs. a $500 HD-decoding receiver.


Thoughts on this argument when comparing the AVM50v and D2 (both with arc).


Thx,


Stieger


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stieger* /forum/post/19173483
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts on this argument when comparing the AVM50v and D2 (both with arc).



Others may be more familiar with your Speakers and Amps - but I'm

guessing you will be happy with the AVM50 - are you sure the AVM50

is a "v" Model?


If it is a AVM50v - That would be my choice for you.


----------



## Stevetd

Has the Live Settings Editor been updated?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/19173503
> 
> 
> Has the Live Settings Editor been updated?



Doesn't appear to have. Version is still 1.31, same as the one in the arc-1 folder with ARC 2.4.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NOCAL* /forum/post/19172385
> 
> 
> I am getting a Bryston 4B-SST into my system and wanted to know if anybody had *real life* experience with a good interconnect-RCA or XLR. I have the 50v, but I imagine the D2 would provide the same experience.
> 
> 
> I searched the forum but could find no discussions.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any insight.



I have the Bryston and here is a suggestion for an excellent balanced cable used by many audiophiles.


Mogami Gold Stage Mic Cable with Neutrik XLR Connectors


----------



## myc52002

Just found this thread and was wondering how I can get to the password protected page to get 3.0? I need the quick measure capability right now...Hope I can get there. Thanks


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002* /forum/post/19174437
> 
> 
> Just found this thread and was wondering how I can get to the password protected page to get 3.0? I need the quick measure capability right now...Hope I can get there. Thanks



If you can afford to wait for the official one next week, please do so


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002* /forum/post/19174437
> 
> 
> Just found this thread and was wondering how I can get to the password protected page to get 3.0? I need the quick measure capability right now...Hope I can get there. Thanks



Anthem doesn't want us to give out the username and password on the forum. They are keeping some kind of loose track on who's downloading from the tech support site. If you contact them on Monday, I'm sure they will give you the username and password.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002* /forum/post/19174437
> 
> 
> Just found this thread and was wondering how I can get to the password protected page to get 3.0? I need the quick measure capability right now...Hope I can get there. Thanks



You do not NEED 3.0 - Use the version you have or the official

version on the Anthem Website.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19175657
> 
> 
> You do not NEED 3.0 - Use the version you have or the official
> 
> version on the Anthem Website.



The version with the quick measure, he seems to want, are only in the latest beta versions. Official version is still 2.4. This should be updated early next week.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19175693
> 
> 
> The version with the quick measure, he seems to want, are only in the latest beta versions. Official version is still 2.4. This should be updated early next week.
> 
> John



Wow a Quickie; for those than have no Patience - Was that a Bob Feature


----------



## xtrips

Hello


After a long pause I decided to try 3.0, but I am also using a new laptop running Win7 x64 and a USB-to-Serial controller with the newest driver.

When I am trying to upload my ARC measurement the upload stalls.

Any idea what can be wrong?

Any modif I should make in the COM port defaults?

I always ran ARC using the same gear except for the 64bit OS this time.


Thanks


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19175693
> 
> 
> The version with the quick measure, he seems to want, are only in the latest beta versions. Official version is still 2.4. This should be updated early next week.
> 
> John



Good to see that Anthem is continuing to improve ARC. I have had ARC for my D2 since shortly after its release. The first version (v1.0) was a huge step up in sonic enjoyment, especially for those of us who didn't have dedicated, treated HT rooms.

Each new ARC version continues to add improvements. Some subtle, some more dramatic. Although I plan to wait for the official v3.0 release, but I'm looking forward to trying out the 'quick measure' feature. Great idea!!


Too bad Anthem doesn't seem to be that interested in offering its D2 owners updated firmware.

It has had v1.47x firmware available on its protected site for months now, but has failed to bring out an official new version for D2 owners.

I asked Anthem in July when the new 'official' D2 firmware was due to be released and was told that it should be out by the end of August or early Sept. I assumed that they meant August or September 2010.

When I e-mailed Anthem this Thursday I was told that no release date was known, and to check the Anthem D2 download page periodically to see if its been released.

It appears that D2 firmware has been put on the back burner while Anthem rolls out its new line of receivers. Too bad.


I tried the beta v1.47f firmare, and felt that there was an improvement in audio and in handshaking, but I kept losing the on-screen setup menu. I have an older D2 that at one point had the green video board (replaced with a newer red board by Anthem when it went bad) and the doughnut shaped power supply, and the beta didn't seem to work with my unit. Maybe I'm the only D2 owner waiting for the new 'official' firmware to be made public, but I doubt it.

If there are other D2 owners out there who would like the new firmware they have been promising us for a while to be released, I would urge you to contact Anthem and let them know. It may not make a difference, but the "squeeky wheel gets the oil''. Perhaps if there a few more of us squeeking, Anthem might revise their priorities and take care of their D2 owners before catering to the potential new receiver owners.

Thanks,

Tom


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19176079
> 
> 
> If there are other D2 owners out there who would like the new firmware they have been promising us for a while to be released, I would urge you to contact Anthem and let them know. It may not make a difference, but the "squeeky wheel gets the oil''.
> 
> Tom



I'm a D2 Owner since day #1. I'm only using the Official Release - Maybe 1.3.


The world is perfect, why rock the boat? Not everyone has problems










Your problem probably needs another hardware fix.


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19176097
> 
> 
> I'm a D2 Owner since day #1. I'm only using the Official Release - Maybe 1.3.
> 
> 
> The world is perfect, why rock the boat? Not everyone has problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your problem probably needs another hardware fix.



In a perfect world...Anthem would keep promises made.


----------



## Kensmith48

I think if drhankz can't help maybe he shouldn't reply.


I used to have the green board but had the red board installed and I went up to v1.47f but I'd also like to see an "official" version for all the D2's also.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/19176336
> 
> 
> In a perfect world...Anthem would keep promises made.



Last Time I looked - the world is not close to being a perfect world.


----------



## NOCAL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19174156
> 
> 
> I have the Bryston and here is a suggestion for an excellent balanced cable used by many audiophiles.
> 
> 
> Mogami Gold Stage Mic Cable with Neutrik XLR Connectors




Thanks for the tip. I never thought about going with a pro studio cable. They are cheap enough to give them a try. I'll test them out. Best, Eric


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19176097
> 
> 
> I'm a D2 Owner since day #1. I'm only using the Official Release - Maybe 1.3.
> 
> 
> The world is perfect, why rock the boat? Not everyone has problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your problem probably needs another hardware fix.



I'm not sure what hardware fix you are proposing. Buy a D2v?

If Anthem had offered half as good a deal as I got when I traded in my AVM30 for my D2 I probably would have. Anthem (thru my dealer) gave me full credit for the AVM30 original sale price towards the D2. The trade-in going from D2 to D2v wasn't nearly as good. Since they had the same MSRP I didn't expect Anthem to give me anew D2v for my old D2, but if they had offered a more reasonable trade in offer may have gone for it. But certainly not for the official trade in that Anthem offered.


The fact is that I'm very happy with my D2. I don't need 8 hdmi inputs and 2 hdmi outputs. 4 and 1 are plenty for me.

Bob and others who went from the D2 to D2v said that they noticed an audio improvement. That would have been the only reason I would upgrade- for better audio. When I tried the v1.47f, I noticed an audio improvement. It was subtle, but noticeable. Since I have no way of proving this, you may not believe me, but others who tried the v1.47f beta also noticed an audio improvement. It is primarily for that reason I want to upgrade to the long promised D2 firmware upgrade.


I would like Anthem to complete the task they have started for the D2 before starting new ones for their new receiver line. My mother taught me to finish one job before stating a new one. I bet the parents of the owners and engineers at Anthem gave them the same sage advice.

I realize they are in business and will do what is fiscally prudent, but if enough likeminded D2 owners 'squeek' loud enough perhaps they will 'oil' us with new firmware.


The good reports for the new ARC that I read from Bob, Jayray, Steve and others make me want to try the new ARC when it is officially released. Each new ARC and D2 firmware release has improved my enjoyment of my D2. When they are available officially I will download and install them.


You are free to remain with v1.33 for as long as you want. You are free to stay with the old ARC firmware when a new one is released. You can watch you movies in VHS as far as I care. Why bother with DVD or Bluray if you don't want to get the most enjoyment possible out of your system. I plan to squeeze whatever improvements I can out of my equipment and I'm pretty sure that the new D2 firmware will improve my enjoyment of both music and movies.


Tom


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19176097
> 
> 
> I'm a D2 Owner since day #1. I'm only using the Official Release - Maybe 1.3.
> 
> *The world is perfect*, why rock the boat? Not everyone has problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your problem probably needs another hardware fix.





> Quote:
> drhankz;Last Time I looked - the world is *not close to being a perfect* world.



I see you have had a change of heart!


----------



## Ace71




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19176079
> 
> 
> Too bad Anthem doesn't seem to be that interested in offering its D2 owners updated firmware.



...or to AVM50 owners. Now it's ARC this and ARC that. After I installed my new projector (JVC HD550 aka RS15) HDMI handshaking is a constant nightmare. It was shaky before but now it's borderline unusable.


Well, still waiting for a "miracle" to happen.


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NOCAL* /forum/post/19172385
> 
> 
> I am getting a Bryston 4B-SST into my system and wanted to know if anybody had *real life* experience with a good interconnect-RCA or XLR. I have the 50v, but I imagine the D2 would provide the same experience.
> 
> 
> I searched the forum but could find no discussions.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any insight.



Hello NOCAL; I have a 3-channel Bryston 300W/Ch. amp controlling my front array with a D2 processor and I use L.A.T. International wires, A little pricey, but EXCELLENT sound. Check out their web site. I have had them for years and have not had the temptation to change them. Hope that helps, John.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19176656
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what hardware fix you are proposing.
> 
> 
> Tom



If your on-screen menu keeps disappearing - that is a Hardware

problem not a FW Problem.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ace71* /forum/post/19176986
> 
> 
> ...or to AVM50 owners. Now it's ARC this and ARC that. After I installed my new projector (JVC HD550 aka RS15) HDMI handshaking is a constant nightmare. It was shaky before but now it's borderline unusable.
> 
> 
> Well, still waiting for a "miracle" to happen.



I sold my AVM50 for a D2v and it didn't have any issues with syncing using 1.33. This doesn't mean you don't have a problem because clearly you do. I'm not familiar with the JVC pj, but I doubt this is only an AVM50 problem. HDMI takes two to tango. It is regrettable that Anthem has had to concentrate on the D2V and MRX receivers, but that is how companies work. In comparison to other companies and I have owned many other brands, no one has the record of updating firmware that Anthem has. Try complaining to Panasonic, or Sony or Yamaha or Parasound etc. and see how fast they respond to individual issues, let alone large group issues. When I did have issues with syncing early on with the AVM50, I used the turn-on-sequence PJ, Anthem then source(suggested by drhankz) and it worked very well. If this doesn't work, keep emailing Anthem and perhaps the firmware engineers, who are close to finishing the MRX firmware, may have some to work on this.

John


----------



## J. FRICANO

Hello all, Does ARC 3.0 offer any improvements over 2.4.17? Change history doesn't say. Thanks, John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19180164
> 
> 
> Hello all, Does ARC 3.0 offer any improvements over 2.4.17? Change history doesn't say. Thanks, John



I don't think it does.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello all, Does ARC 3.0 offer any improvements over 2.4.17? Change history doesn't say. Thanks, John



Nope.

John


----------



## J. FRICANO

Thanks guys John


----------



## Ace71




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19179321
> 
> 
> I'm not familiar with the JVC pj, but I doubt this is only an AVM50 problem. HDMI takes two to tango.



Yes, it is possible that JVC's HDMI is more tricky than my Sony (Ruby) was, but if I connect sources directly to the projector, then everything works fine.


For example:


Sony BDP-S760 (24p) > AVM50 > JVC HD550 = HDCP ERROR, no picture. Interestingly though 60p works. If I take AVM50 off the chain and connect Sony directly to JVC, then 24p works just fine. Oh man, this is frustrating... well, I can live with a lossy DTS for now.


I sent a couple of emails to Anthem concerning other video related issues, but never got any response from them. Was it my bad Engrish, dunno...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ace71* /forum/post/19180432
> 
> 
> Yes, it is possible that JVC's HDMI is more tricky than my Sony (Ruby) was, but if I connect sources directly to the projector, then everything works fine.
> 
> 
> For example:
> 
> 
> Sony BDP-S760 (24p) > AVM50 > JVC HD550 = HDCP ERROR, no picture. Interestingly though 60p works. If I take AVM50 off the chain and connect Sony directly to JVC, then 24p works just fine. Oh man, this is frustrating... well, I can live with a lossy DTS for now.
> 
> 
> I sent a couple of emails to Anthem concerning other video related issues, but never got any response from them. Was it my bad Engrish, dunno...



I'm not sure if they have a 1-800 number but if you have a plan for long distance try calling them. I don't think this is a pj they wouldn't have had some experience with. Ask to talk to Nick.

John


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19173413
> 
> 
> If you have 2.4.17 then you don't need to remeasure. If you have 2.4 or any of the betas up to 2.4.16 you should.There are a lot of changes since 2.4 that you will really like. But from 2.4.17 beta version there are no changes except the version number. Hope that helps.
> 
> John



I think you said, you could not see the difference between 2.4.15 and 2.17. I am using 2.4.15. Should I remeasure?

Thanks,


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19180518
> 
> 
> I think you said, you could not see the difference between 2.4.15 and 2.17. I am using 2.4.15. Should I remeasure?
> 
> Thanks,



It is hard to say since there have been so many versions. You might want to wait for the official and then remeasure or if you can't wait, measure with 2.4.17 which is identical to 3.0 which will be out shortly. I did new meaurements with the last few for various reasons and to test for anomalies so if I hadn't, I would most likely remeasure to make sure I got all the benefits of the new version. And it's soooo much fun









John


----------



## mkaye

i have a Roger's PVR & an HDX1000 media tank

when i select the PVR the OSD shows 5.1, when i select the NMT, it shows 7.1

i have a 5.1 system

is it just telling me what the signal might be capable of, but is always going to downmix the 7.1 to 5.1?


mark


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19179227
> 
> 
> If your on-screen menu keeps disappearing - that is a Hardware
> 
> problem not a FW Problem.



I don't think so.

The on screen menu was fine with v1.33.

The on screen menu would go out after a while with v1.47f. If I reloaded the v1.47f it would work for a while then go out again.

I reloaded v1.33 and the menu has been fine.

Same hardware thru the whole chain.

v1.33= no problem.

v1.47f-=problem.


Dr., what peice of hardware would cause this? I'll have it replaced by Anthem if there really is defective hardware, but logic and common sense lead me to beleive its a firmware problem.

Please, enlighten me.


Tom


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19180895
> 
> 
> I don't think so.
> 
> The on screen menu was fine with v1.33.
> 
> The on screen menu would go out after a while with v1.47f. If I reloaded the v1.47f it would work for a while then go out again.
> 
> I reloaded v1.33 and the menu has been fine.
> 
> Same hardware thru the whole chain.
> 
> v1.33= no problem.
> 
> v1.47f-=problem.
> 
> 
> Dr., what peice of hardware would cause this? I'll have it replaced by Anthem if there really is defective hardware, but logic and common sense lead me to beleive its a firmware problem.
> 
> Please, enlighten me.
> 
> 
> Tom



Now you have me CONFUSED - I thought you had the problem with

both versions of FW and were hoping they would be a newer version

to fix the problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19180895
> 
> 
> I don't think so.
> 
> The on screen menu was fine with v1.33.
> 
> The on screen menu would go out after a while with v1.47f. If I reloaded the v1.47f it would work for a while then go out again.
> 
> I reloaded v1.33 and the menu has been fine.
> 
> Same hardware thru the whole chain.
> 
> v1.33= no problem.
> 
> v1.47f-=problem.
> 
> 
> Dr., what peice of hardware would cause this? I'll have it replaced by Anthem if there really is defective hardware, but logic and common sense lead me to beleive its a firmware problem.
> 
> Please, enlighten me.
> 
> 
> Tom



The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source. If you have any other S-video sources (perhaps an S-video from some source you are using with better cabling now) you can check to see if S-video from an external source is lost at the same time. If so, then your video board has a marginal component in the circuit that detects and digitizes S-video so that it can be processed by the video processor. The acceptable limits for these analog video components probably changed between V1.33 and V1.47f for some other reason.


If you are JUST losing the Setup menu (other S-video OK) then that suggests a firmware problem. Perhaps you have a bad copy of V1.47f. Download a fresh one.


Are you letting the Setup menu stay on screen so long that it times out on its own? If it is not coming back after it times out, but comes back immediately if you power cycle, then that too would suggest a firmware problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/19180827
> 
> 
> i have a Roger's PVR & an HDX1000 media tank
> 
> when i select the PVR the OSD shows 5.1, when i select the NMT, it shows 7.1
> 
> i have a 5.1 system
> 
> is it just telling me what the signal might be capable of, but is always going to downmix the 7.1 to 5.1?
> 
> 
> mark



If you have a D2v or AVM 50v, this is normal. They will accept 7.1 input even if you have 5.1 speakers. Any rear channel content will be steered to the side surrounds automatically. [Please note that if you have 5.1 speakers, then the surround speakers are always wired and referred to as the SIDE surrounds regardless of how far back you have them placed in the room.]

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/19175747
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> After a long pause I decided to try 3.0, but I am also using a new laptop running Win7 x64 and a USB-to-Serial controller with the newest driver.
> 
> When I am trying to upload my ARC measurement the upload stalls.
> 
> Any idea what can be wrong?
> 
> Any modif I should make in the COM port defaults?
> 
> I always ran ARC using the same gear except for the 64bit OS this time.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Make sure you have the 64-bit version of the driver for your USB/Serial adapter.


If I understand you correctly, you say that the ARC Measurements work but the Upload fails. Right? Check to make sure Windows has this virtual serial port set to No Flow Control. Also check to make sure the RS-232 settings in Setup in the Anthem match the factory defaults (see the picture in the Manual).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/19173503
> 
> 
> Has the Live Settings Editor been updated?



Live Video Settings Editor (view and change Video Source Adjust Menu items from your PC) has not changed recently. The version in the Utilities folder of the ARC install download is the latest one.


Setup Editor (view and change Setup Menu items from your PC) has been pulled as they do not yet have a version that knows about the changes for Dolby Volume.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stieger* /forum/post/19173483
> 
> 
> Discussion I just had with my dealer was whether or not the D2 would sound more like "HD audio" on non-HD material - like DTV or SD DVDs, in comparison to the AVM50v when not watching a blu ray disc.
> 
> 
> Anybody have any thoughts.
> 
> 
> Another way of putting what I'm saying above would be to consider:
> 
> $500 receiver that decodes TrueHD and DTS Master vs.....
> 
> 
> A Meridian 861 processor (which does not have the capability of decoding the HD codecs) with outboard amps playing the equivalent SD multi-channel material as the $500 TrueHD and DTS processor above.
> 
> 
> Argument / hypothesis: the Meridian would sound better / "more" like HD audio because of it's components, etc., vs. a $500 HD-decoding receiver.
> 
> 
> Thoughts on this argument when comparing the AVM50v and D2 (both with arc).
> 
> 
> Thx,
> 
> 
> Stieger



There've been essentially no comparisons posted between the original D2 and the new AVM 50v as regards audio. Theoretically the audio signal path in the D2 should be superior to that in the AVM 50v for content they both can handle (e.g. DD5.1 from TV programs or SD-DVD discs).


However the AVM 50v can handle audio that the D2 can not handle -- e.g. HDMI 7.1 input and HDMI Bitstream input.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19181040
> 
> 
> The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source. If you have any other S-video sources (perhaps an S-video from some source you are using with better cabling now) you can check to see if S-video from an external source is lost at the same time. If so, then your video board has a marginal component in the circuit that detects and digitizes S-video so that it can be processed by the video processor. The acceptable limits for these analog video components probably changed between V1.33 and V1.47f for some other reason.
> 
> 
> If you are JUST losing the Setup menu (other S-video OK) then that suggests a firmware problem. Perhaps you have a bad copy of V1.47f. Download a fresh one.
> 
> 
> Are you letting the Setup menu stay on screen so long that it times out on its own? If it is not coming back after it times out, but comes back immediately if you power cycle, then that too would suggest a firmware problem.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

First of all its good to see you back. Hope you were away because you wanted to be, not that you needed to.


I did reload v1.47f last night and, so far, its working well.

I used a different laptop that uses windows 7. I can't remember if I had upgraded my other laptop from Vista to 7 when I did the prior download/upload. I think I was still using Vista. I don't know if that would make a difference or not, but Vista wasn't the best OS.


I do remember that I did download a fresh v1.47f from the Anthem website the second time I loaded it in my D2, but still lost the on screen setup menu.

And yes, I did wait long enough for a 'handshake' delay type loss of screen that seems inherent with the newer firmwares. The front panel of the D2 would show the menu, but not via hdmi to my display. A power cycle didn't help, either.

It was either bad firmware, or my D2 is not compatible with the newer firmware- my D2 originally had the green video board and 'doughnut' shaped power supplies. The video board was replaced with the red one, but the power supply is still the 'doughnuts'.

Time will tell if it was a software or hardware incompatibility issue.

If possible, I would prefer to use v1.47f.


I'm not sure if I understand the s-video stuff.
*Are you saying that I can connect the D2 to my display with s-video cable and it might be a work-around?* I sure have enough s-video cables in my closet that I could use, and I don't need to see my D2 menu in hi-def. It's much easier to navigate the menu on screen vs the display.


Tom


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19176079
> 
> 
> Good to see that Anthem is continuing to improve ARC. I have had ARC for my D2 since shortly after its release. The first version (v1.0) was a huge step up in sonic enjoyment, especially for those of us who didn't have dedicated, treated HT rooms.
> 
> Each new ARC version continues to add improvements. Some subtle, some more dramatic. Although I plan to wait for the official v3.0 release, but I'm looking forward to trying out the 'quick measure' feature. Great idea!!
> 
> 
> Too bad Anthem doesn't seem to be that interested in offering its D2 owners updated firmware.
> 
> It has had v1.47x firmware available on its protected site for months now, but has failed to bring out an official new version for D2 owners.
> 
> I asked Anthem in July when the new 'official' D2 firmware was due to be released and was told that it should be out by the end of August or early Sept. I assumed that they meant August or September 2010.
> 
> When I e-mailed Anthem this Thursday I was told that no release date was known, and to check the Anthem D2 download page periodically to see if its been released.
> 
> It appears that D2 firmware has been put on the back burner while Anthem rolls out its new line of receivers. Too bad.
> 
> 
> I tried the beta v1.47f firmare, and felt that there was an improvement in audio and in handshaking, but I kept losing the on-screen setup menu. I have an older D2 that at one point had the green video board (replaced with a newer red board by Anthem when it went bad) and the doughnut shaped power supply, and the beta didn't seem to work with my unit. Maybe I'm the only D2 owner waiting for the new 'official' firmware to be made public, but I doubt it.
> 
> If there are other D2 owners out there who would like the new firmware they have been promising us for a while to be released, I would urge you to contact Anthem and let them know. It may not make a difference, but the "squeeky wheel gets the oil''. Perhaps if there a few more of us squeeking, Anthem might revise their priorities and take care of their D2 owners before catering to the potential new receiver owners.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/19176336
> 
> 
> In a perfect world...Anthem would keep promises made.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19176656
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what hardware fix you are proposing. Buy a D2v?
> 
> If Anthem had offered half as good a deal as I got when I traded in my AVM30 for my D2 I probably would have. Anthem (thru my dealer) gave me full credit for the AVM30 original sale price towards the D2. The trade-in going from D2 to D2v wasn't nearly as good. Since they had the same MSRP I didn't expect Anthem to give me anew D2v for my old D2, but if they had offered a more reasonable trade in offer may have gone for it. But certainly not for the official trade in that Anthem offered.
> 
> 
> The fact is that I'm very happy with my D2. I don't need 8 hdmi inputs and 2 hdmi outputs. 4 and 1 are plenty for me.
> 
> Bob and others who went from the D2 to D2v said that they noticed an audio improvement. That would have been the only reason I would upgrade- for better audio. When I tried the v1.47f, I noticed an audio improvement. It was subtle, but noticeable. Since I have no way of proving this, you may not believe me, but others who tried the v1.47f beta also noticed an audio improvement. It is primarily for that reason I want to upgrade to the long promised D2 firmware upgrade.
> 
> 
> I would like Anthem to complete the task they have started for the D2 before starting new ones for their new receiver line. My mother taught me to finish one job before stating a new one. I bet the parents of the owners and engineers at Anthem gave them the same sage advice.
> 
> I realize they are in business and will do what is fiscally prudent, but if enough likeminded D2 owners 'squeek' loud enough perhaps they will 'oil' us with new firmware.
> 
> 
> The good reports for the new ARC that I read from Bob, Jayray, Steve and others make me want to try the new ARC when it is officially released. Each new ARC and D2 firmware release has improved my enjoyment of my D2. When they are available officially I will download and install them.
> 
> 
> You are free to remain with v1.33 for as long as you want. You are free to stay with the old ARC firmware when a new one is released. You can watch you movies in VHS as far as I care. Why bother with DVD or Bluray if you don't want to get the most enjoyment possible out of your system. I plan to squeeze whatever improvements I can out of my equipment and I'm pretty sure that the new D2 firmware will improve my enjoyment of both music and movies.
> 
> 
> Tom



I totally agree with all of these posts.


----------



## dlynch34

Ok loaded and measured arc 3 and wow easy and the best sounding yet!! I have only listened to music. I'll post my movie experience tomorrow.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> First of all its good to see you back. Hope you were away because you wanted to be, not that you needed to.
> 
> 
> I did reload v1.47f last night and, so far, its working well.
> 
> I used a different laptop that uses windows 7. I can't remember if I had upgraded my other laptop from Vista to 7 when I did the prior download/upload. I think I was still using Vista. I don't know if that would make a difference or not, but Vista wasn't the best OS.
> 
> 
> I do remember that I did download a fresh v1.47f from the Anthem website the second time I loaded it in my D2, but still lost the on screen setup menu.
> 
> And yes, I did wait long enough for a 'handshake' delay type loss of screen that seems inherent with the newer firmwares. The front panel of the D2 would show the menu, but not via hdmi to my display. A power cycle didn't help, either.
> 
> It was either bad firmware, or my D2 is not compatible with the newer firmware- my D2 originally had the green video board and 'doughnut' shaped power supplies. The video board was replaced with the red one, but the power supply is still the 'doughnuts'.
> 
> Time will tell if it was a software or hardware incompatibility issue.
> 
> If possible, I would prefer to use v1.47f.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if I understand the s-video stuff.
> 
> Are you saying that I can connect the D2 to my display with s-video cable and it might be a work-around? I sure have enough s-video cables in my closet that I could use, and I don't need to see my D2 menu in hi-def. It's much easier to navigate the menu on screen vs the display.
> 
> 
> Tom



If you now have a red video board you are definitely OK for V1.47f regardless of power supply.


On the S-Video: No, I meant you should hook up an S-Video Source device. If you lose video from it as well when Setup goes away, then that suggests you have a video board problem.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

In the absence of miracle cures...


1. Our road map includes a final D2/AVM 50 version once D2v/AVM 50v HDMI is done - the relevant HDMI related parts will be carried to D2/AVM 50.


2. HDMI has been a moving target since the beginning and there are just as many D2v/AVM 50v systems with HDMI problems as with D2/AVM 50. We fix what we can. Although things are much better than they were in the beginning, all it takes to throw another wrench in the system is another cable box model and software combination with its own story. It still happens and we still look for cures.


3. In at least 99% of Anthem-based systems there is either no HDMI problem or not one that can be fixed by a change on our side. To go with that, changes mean that the problem-free rate can end up being less than 99%... a lot of things have side effects.


--------------------


If you sent us a problem report for which there was no response for several days it's because it didn't get to our inbox. If sent it to [email protected] there's a chance our firewall didn't like something in it or the domain you're sending from (this only applies if we never sent a message to the address that you sent from). Please try again using the form:

http://www.anthemav.com/Contact-Technical-Support 


Please be sure to enter your return address and the spam blocker's word correctly. If that doesn't work please reach us through your dealer or by phone (905-362-0958, option 2). There's always the chance that a firewall on the end we're trying to respond to can break communication.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

+1 on the d2 firmware upgrade.


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi all. I'm currently waiting for my D2v unit to arrive and was told today that a "Wingless" one had landed and am I interested. Being new to this are the "Wings" (SIDE PANELS) included in the box if you request not to need them? Hope this makes sense.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19182837
> 
> 
> Hi all. I'm currently waiting for my D2v unit to arrive and was told today that a "Wingless" one had landed and am I interested. Being new to this are the "Wings" included in the box if you request not to need them? Hope this makes sense.



Pretty sure they're not Simon, the wingless version is a special order item and removing/adding the wings is meant to be performed by Anthem not the customer as they cannot be removed/added simply. IIRC the front cover and case need to be removed to gain access to the wings mounting and doing so would void the warranty.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10

Ah ok mate. Hmm not sure if I want them on or off makes no difference really to me as it's just going straight into a shelf where the NAD is. So is it worth waiting for my unit which will have them or just get the wingless one? My gets shipped from Canada this week.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19183108
> 
> 
> Ah ok mate. Hmm not sure if I want them on or off makes no difference really to me as it's just going straight into a shelf where the NAD is. So is it worth waiting for my unit which will have them or just get the wingless one? My gets shipped from Canada this week.



It's just an aesthetics thing really.

Though I had a panic attack as with the wings it wouldn't fit through the front opening of my cabinet







then I checked the rear opening and I was fine, otherwise I'd have to special order the wingless and have to wait instead of picking it up that day.


Maybe check your cabinet to ensure you can get either version in there, then it's just a question of are the wings worth waiting for










FYI, the D2v comes in three versions:

1. With wings, this is the standard

2. Without wings

3. With rack mounts


Cheers


----------



## benleeys

Simon,


If you have it wingless, the indentations at both ends of the front plate will spoil the fabulous look of the unit. Believe me, you'll prefer it winged.


Ben


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Simon,
> 
> 
> If you have it wingless, the indentations at both ends of the front plate will spoil the fabulous look of the unit. Believe me, you'll prefer it winged.
> 
> 
> Ben



I have a wingless version and it sounds too fantastic to spoil the look.



Don


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19180595
> 
> 
> It is hard to say since there have been so many versions. You might want to wait for the official and then remeasure or if you can't wait, measure with 2.4.17 which is identical to 3.0 which will be out shortly. I did new meaurements with the last few for various reasons and to test for anomalies so if I hadn't, I would most likely remeasure to make sure I got all the benefits of the new version. And it's soooo much fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Thanks.

The whole hobby is fun. That's why we spend thousands of dollars to entertain ourselves. That is not fun especially not to wife.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19184867
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> The whole hobby is fun. That's why we spend thousands of dollars to entertain ourselves. That is not fun especially not to wife.



When my wife hears the test sweeps she runs for cover and she's heard a lot of them.









John


----------



## Donloz




Nick @ Anthem said:


> In the absence of miracle cures...
> 
> 
> 1. Our road map includes a final D2/AVM 50 version once D2v/AVM 50v HDMI is done - the relevant HDMI related parts will be carried to D2/AVM 50.
> 
> 
> 2. HDMI has been a moving target since the beginning and there are just as many D2v/AVM 50v systems with HDMI problems as with D2/AVM 50. We fix what we can. Although things are much better than they were in the beginning, all it takes to throw another wrench in the system is another cable box model and software combination with its own story. It still happens and we still look for cures.
> 
> 
> 3. In at least 99% of Anthem-based systems there is either no HDMI problem or not one that can be fixed by a change on our side. To go with that, changes mean that the problem-free rate can end up being less than 99%... a lot of things have side effects.
> 
> 
> --------------------
> 
> FINALLY the GODS have spoken, I have been told for a few months now that this will happen, an upgrade for the D2, now I believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anthem, good luck @ the SHOW with your new gear.


----------



## stieger

anybody know if the latest version of the AVM50v will pass 7.1 lpcm via hdmi?


Also, regarding the D2, does it upsample multi-channel HDMI input (blu ray movie?)


Thanks all!


Stieger


----------



## marahal

Hi guys,

I am a recent owner of a AVM50v,my old AVR was a Denon 2311.

I am much more satisfied with its audio and video but only when it works.

The problem is, everytime I switch inputs (4 HDMI only), I lost audio signal,and only get Video.

I installed the latest FW - 2.10, and no success.Audio problem when switching inputs remains.


Here are my 4 HDMI inputs:

1-HTPC running W732

2-PS3

3-Set Top Box

4-PCH C200


They were working properly with Denon 2311.

Any suggestions or solutions that I dont know?

May be my AVM50v arrived "broken"?


Thank You for your attention,

and greetings from Brazil










Marcio


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/19184409
> 
> 
> I have a wingless version and it sounds too fantastic to spoil the look.
> 
> Don



Ahhh....good for you!


----------



## SimonNo10

Going to go the winged version and hopefully (pending Customs clearance), i may get the unit for this weekend. It's been sent from Canada today so hopefully doesn't take too long. Can't wait.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stieger* /forum/post/19187902
> 
> 
> Also, regarding the D2, does it upsample multi-channel HDMI input (blu ray movie?)
> 
> 
> Thanks all!
> 
> 
> Stieger



Yes.


----------



## MikeCornika




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marahal* /forum/post/19188315
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I am a recent owner of a AVM50v,my old AVR was a Denon 2311.
> 
> I am much more satisfied with its audio and video but only when it works.
> 
> The problem is, everytime I switch inputs (4 HDMI only), I lost audio signal,and only get Video.
> 
> I installed the latest FW - 2.10, and no success.Audio problem when switching inputs remains.
> 
> 
> Here are my 4 HDMI inputs:
> 
> 1-HTPC running W732
> 
> 2-PS3
> 
> 3-Set Top Box
> 
> 4-PCH C200
> 
> 
> They were working properly with Denon 2311.
> 
> Any suggestions or solutions that I dont know?
> 
> May be my AVM50v arrived "broken"?
> 
> 
> Thank You for your attention,
> 
> and greetings from Brazil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marcio



Welcome to Anthem forum and enjoy your new toy.

When you switch between the HDMI input try to leave a couple of seconds between each switch, that will give the time to the processor to handle the HDMI handshakes.

If you go to fast the Anthem try to fix the connectivity for the previous input but because it is not able to find it, the unit lose the audio.

Hope that will help.


----------



## marahal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/19189219
> 
> 
> Welcome to Anthem forum and enjoy your new toy.
> 
> When you switch between the HDMI input try to leave a couple of seconds between each switch, that will give the time to the processor to handle the HDMI handshakes.
> 
> If you go to fast the Anthem try to fix the connectivity for the previous input but because it is not able to find it, the unit lose the audio.
> 
> Hope that will help.




Tks Mike, but thats not the problem.

Anthem support emailed me now, they told me to set all inputs to "Auto dig NO".

I will try that and will let u guys know if it will fix the problem.(hope it works)

Tks for now.


----------



## NOCAL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19179222
> 
> 
> Hello NOCAL; I have a 3-channel Bryston 300W/Ch. amp controlling my front array with a D2 processor and I use L.A.T. International wires, A little pricey, but EXCELLENT sound. Check out their web site. I have had them for years and have not had the temptation to change them. Hope that helps, John.



Thanks J. Fricano. That is a brand I never had considered before. I'll check it out.


Again, if anybody has *real life* experience with the Anthem processor and Bryston Amps with interconnects that would be great!


----------



## NOCAL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marahal* /forum/post/19188315
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I am a recent owner of a AVM50v,my old AVR was a Denon 2311.
> 
> I am much more satisfied with its audio and video but only when it works.
> 
> The problem is, everytime I switch inputs (4 HDMI only), I lost audio signal,and only get Video.
> 
> I installed the latest FW - 2.10, and no success.Audio problem when switching inputs remains.
> 
> 
> Here are my 4 HDMI inputs:
> 
> 1-HTPC running W732
> 
> 2-PS3
> 
> 3-Set Top Box
> 
> 4-PCH C200
> 
> 
> They were working properly with Denon 2311.
> 
> Any suggestions or solutions that I dont know?
> 
> May be my AVM50v arrived "broken"?
> 
> 
> Thank You for your attention,
> 
> and greetings from Brazil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marcio



I find that starting the Anthem first, then powering up any other components usually works best. Occasionally, if the connection fails, such as no sound, then I power everything off and begin with the Anthem .


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If you've lost just audio, and your Source allows it, before trying anything else simply Pause the audio input and then Play to continue. Loss of audio may mean the Anthem has triggered its automatic mute because it decided the input signal has turned to noise. Pausing and restarting the audio stream should cure that if it doesn't resolve on its own before you think to try it.


If that doesn't work, the next thing to try is to select a different Source for input momentarily and then go back.


If both of those don't work, then, indeed, power cycling the Anthem is probably the next step.


If this seems to be happening a lot, also check that you aren't accidentally Muting your Source, perhaps due to an IR code conflict -- i.e., a signal meant for some other device being mistakenly picked up as Mute command by your Source. If your amps are controlled by Triggers, also double check that the amps are actually becoming active. If not, perhaps you don't have your Triggers set up properly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marahal* /forum/post/19189907
> 
> 
> Tks Mike, but thats not the problem.
> 
> Anthem support emailed me now, they told me to set all inputs to "Auto dig NO".
> 
> I will try that and will let u guys know if it will fix the problem.(hope it works)
> 
> Tks for now.



This is good advice as it simplifies the setup handshake between the devices. Another thing to try is to pick an explicit setting for connection options that are set to "Auto" by default. For example, for an HDMI to HDMI connection, the use of an explicit YCbCr 4:4:4 data format, rather than Auto, will also simplify the handshake, even if Auto eventually results in YCbCr 4:4:4 on its own, anyway.


(HDMI Audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the "blanking intervals" of the HDMI Video. That's why HDMI Video settings may sometimes affect whether the audio connection happens properly.)

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NOCAL* /forum/post/19191292
> 
> 
> Thanks J. Fricano. That is a brand I never had considered before. I'll check it out.
> 
> 
> Again, if anybody has *real life* experience with the Anthem processor and Bryston Amps with interconnects that would be great!



I guess you might say I have *Real Life* experience.

I have a D2 connected with Mogami Gold Studio #W2534

Mogami Gold Studio 


It is connected to two Bryston 7B SSt mono amps for the front channels and a 9B SSt five channel amp for the Center, Surround and Rear channels.

After extensive listening by several pairs of audiophile ears we could not quantify there was any better sound or listening experience compared to several sets of very expensive audiophile RCA and Balanced cables.

You can move up to Mogami Stage Gold # W2791 which is only available in bulk and use Neutrik Silver XLR connectors ( not the gold ) and SILVER SOLDER (Not alloy tin) that has sightly better capacitance but honestly we could not tell the difference.

Mogami Gold Stage 


Does this help you ?


----------



## my2cents

Hello all,


I haven't re-measured my ARC solution for some time now (I think since 2.4 official), and did so today with the 3.0 beta. I set all speakers to 0.0, then adjusted the noise level to 75 db on my RS with fresh batteries, and the sub to the same with it's volume control. For reference, my D2 is set up with volume at +10db max.


When I measured, 3.0 came back with levels of 60db. At first, I thought I had a problem of some sort, but I seem to remember back a while ago that Bob proposed that the levels are now referenced to the max volume setting, therefore they would be set 10db lower to equate to 0 db reference? Not sure if I have that right.


Anyway, I did a separate movie (7.1) and music (2.0) measure, and accepted all the proposed ARC targets (except I set my Thiel CS6's in music as "flat"). I have to say the result sounds better than I've heard before with ARC - the midrange is excellent, and my Thiel's really sing.


In any case, can anyone verify what I'm seeing for the measured level?


Thanks.


----------



## daren_p

I was curious if anyone is using their ARC with the Speakon connector that subs such as MJ Acoustics & REL are using? I'm looking to get a pair of more "musical" subs & these are on my list. What I'm wondering is how well it works (or if it works) using the Speakon connector for your 2 channel music setup & then just setting it up in ARC as having full range towers & turning the sub off?


----------



## marahal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19191528
> 
> 
> This is good advice as it simplifies the setup handshake between the devices. Another thing to try is to pick an explicit setting for connection options that are set to "Auto" by default. For example, for an HDMI to HDMI connection, the use of an explicit YCbCr 4:4:4 data format, rather than Auto, will also simplify the handshake, even if Auto eventually results in YCbCr 4:4:4 on its own, anyway.
> 
> 
> (HDMI Audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the "blanking intervals" of the HDMI Video. That's why HDMI Video settings may sometimes affect whether the audio connection happens properly.)
> 
> --Bob



Tks Bob, and all u guys that replied.

I did what anthem support told me: ( SET ALL HDMI TO - AUTO DIG "NO").

Now is working 100%!!!

Hope this can help other users too.

Now lets have fun with it!









Greetings,


Marcio


----------



## runnerlk

Took the plunge and bought the 83SE. Looking for the best settings for video and audio.


My front 2 channels from the D2v are sent to my Conrad Johnson CT5 tube preamp. for music I am mostly a 2 channel guy, so I was thinking of going analog to the CJ and HDMI obviously to the D2v. There may be some occasions that I will listen to multi channel music with the D2v, but for the most part it will be 2 channel. ANy inputv would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## tngiloy

Does anyone know if the ARC 3.0 on the Anthem password protected/beta page is the 'official' 3.0?

I assume this is the same as the one they will put on the public Anthem site or they would have named it 2.4.xx and not 3.0, but we all know what happens when you ass-u-me







.


Tom


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19196909
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if the ARC 3.0 on the Anthem password protected/beta page is the 'official' 3.0?
> 
> I assume this is the same as the one they will put on the public Anthem site or they would have named it 2.4.xx and not 3.0, but we all know what happens when you ass-u-me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Tom



Sorry. I just saw jayray's 9/10 post on the 3.0 release.

I know what I'll be doing tonight.

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if the ARC 3.0 on the Anthem password protected/beta page is the 'official' 3.0?
> 
> I assume this is the same as the one they will put on the public Anthem site or they would have named it 2.4.xx and not 3.0, but we all know what happens when you ass-u-me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Tom



It is not "official" yet. It may become official, or they may replace it with a newer release candidate still using 3.0 but with a newer date and something changed. It has happened before. If you want official, then wait.

--Bob


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/19192444
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> 
> I haven't re-measured my ARC solution for some time now (I think since 2.4 official), and did so today with the 3.0 beta. I set all speakers to 0.0, then adjusted the noise level to 75 db on my RS with fresh batteries, and the sub to the same with it's volume control. For reference, my D2 is set up with volume at +10db max.
> 
> 
> When I measured, 3.0 came back with levels of 60db. At first, I thought I had a problem of some sort, but I seem to remember back a while ago that Bob proposed that the levels are now referenced to the max volume setting, therefore they would be set 10db lower to equate to 0 db reference? Not sure if I have that right.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I did a separate movie (7.1) and music (2.0) measure, and accepted all the proposed ARC targets (except I set my Thiel CS6's in music as "flat"). I have to say the result sounds better than I've heard before with ARC - the midrange is excellent, and my Thiel's really sing.
> 
> 
> In any case, can anyone verify what I'm seeing for the measured level?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Bob, can you refresh my memory on this one?


----------



## myc52002

Looking for anyone who has experienced this issue and may know a solution. I downloaded 3.0 from the password protected page and it seems to work perfectly. I used the quick measure procedure, ran a full test and when I tried to upload to the D2V I get the dreaded blue screen of death memory dump crash every time I try to upload. I had no issues with 2.4 doing this. The only error info I can see is the blue screen said IRQL equal less than - memory dump.


Hope someone has an idea. Thanks


----------



## netroamer

I have run 3.0 twice and the first time it changed the Sub-woofer polarity to inverted and the phase to 5deg. The second time it changed the polarity to inverted but left the phase alone. I am 100% sure that the polarity was normal and phase at 0 when I started. Has this been noted by anyone else?


----------



## TheLion

Hello!


I have a question regarding how ARC deals with bass response/roll-off.


I will use up to 4 high performance sealed subwoofers (Seaton Submersive XL) in my system and I want to extend their low-frequency in-room response as low as practical (given the available headroom).


ARC will flatten my frequency response. But how low does it do that? I will have enough headroom for a flat response down to 10Hz. The measured -3db point will depend on placement and room gain - so it is variable.


Will ARC flatten my response down to the measured -3db point? Which roll-off curve does it apply below that? Can I manually edit the low point of flat response (eg. my measured -3db point due to lacking room gain is 13Hz - can I manually choose to EQ flat down to 10Hz?)?


How does the "room gain" parameter interact with this? Does "room gain" act like a shelve filter? If I choose 3 db room gain - which frequency range will be elevated 3 db? Down to which frequency is "room gain" applied?


Thank you. I am trying to decide if a D2V is right for my application (or if I need to employ some external PEQ unit)


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have run 3.0 twice and the first time it changed the Sub-woofer polarity to inverted and the phase to 5deg. The second time it changed the polarity to inverted but left the phase alone. I am 100% sure that the polarity was normal and phase at 0 when I started. Has this been noted by anyone else?



I was under the impression that ARC does nothing with phase or polarity. I thought it just worked in the frequency domain not taking account of any time (phase) related information. Before you run ARC save your settings & then reload them after ARC is uploaded.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/19198526
> 
> 
> I was under the impression that ARC does nothing with phase or polarity. I thought it just worked in the frequency domain not taking account of any time (phase) related information. Before you run ARC save your settings & then reload them after ARC is uploaded.



If you do a restore after ARC you will change the crossover values ARC has uploaded. A Save and restore doesn't affect a lot of what ARC does but not everything.


----------



## xtrips

Hi,


After I used the 3.0 version I noticed something wrong with the way it sounds. I recall that when I loaded my measurements to the D2v I had to do it in several steps as the loading failed many times. Eventually after some fiddling with the COM port settings I managed to load it. But I have doubts. How can I load my measurements from scratch? On a 'clean' D2v? Back to factory defaults is enough?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/19198654
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> After I used the 3.0 version I noticed something wrong with the way it sounds. I recall that when I loaded my measurements to the D2v I had to do it in several steps as the loading failed many times. Eventually after some fiddling with the COM port settings I managed to load it. But I have doubts. How can I load my measurements from scratch? On a 'clean' D2v? Back to factory defaults is enough?
> 
> 
> Thanks



The ARC Upload entirely replaces any prior ARC data so there's no need to start from scratch.


But if you really want to do so, use the Erase function from the ARC application to delete the Room Correction data in the D2v and then do a Reload Factory Defaults in the D2v to reset all of its settings. Of course that means you will need to re-enter all of your Source definitions, etc.


A better solution is to redo the ARC Upload and then go into Setup and check that all the settings in there make sense. Once you have confirmed that, Save User and Installer Settings so that you can't accidentally undo the settings ARC Uploaded by restoring from either of those memories.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/19198526
> 
> 
> I was under the impression that ARC does nothing with phase or polarity. I thought it just worked in the frequency domain not taking account of any time (phase) related information. Before you run ARC save your settings & then reload them after ARC is uploaded.



That is also my understanding. I have sent a report to Anthem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks who are having troubles with the ARC serial connection:


1) Go into Setup > Triggers / IR / RS-232 and confirm that you have the factory settings for the RS-232 connection. See the picture in Manual section 3.11. If you have used or tried RS-232 remote control with your Anthem you may have altered those settings. If you are using RS-232 remote control now, you can return to your changed settings after completing your ARC setup.


2) If you are using a USB/Serial adapter in your Windows PC, make sure you have the latest version of its driver installed for your particular version of Windows. Go to the manufacturer's support site and check. If you have an older driver version, replace it and reboot. Make sure the Serial port your adapter creates has been assigned a name in the range COM 1 to COM 6 and that "flow control" is set to "none". You can check this by going into Windows > Control Panel > Hardware Device Manager and checking "Properties" on that COM port.


3) If the above doesn't yield a solution, go into Windows > Control Panel > Add/Remove Programs and uninstall ARC. Then reboot the computer. Then download a fresh copy of ARC from the Anthem site and install it. Then reboot the computer again.


4) We have had a couple (unconfirmed) reports here that some Windows firewall software can interfere with the operation of the Serial port. Try turning off any firewall software while doing the ARC setup.


-----------------------------------------


ARC is not supposed to alter either the subwoofer Polarity or Phase settings during the Upload. If you have a repeatable case of this, give Anthem tech support a call.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/19198526
> 
> 
> . . . . Before you run ARC save your settings & then reload them after ARC is uploaded.



NO!


ARC Uploads its Room Correction parameters into a special memory that you can not see, but it ALSO Uploads settings into the Setup menu. These include the crossovers and the speaker volume trims. If you Reload Saved User or Installer Settings after the ARC Upload, you will undo these Setup menu changes ARC has just made. Which, of course, screws up the ARC solution.


INSTEAD: After the ARC Upload completes, go into Setup and look around to double-check that things look correct. Then *SAVE* User and Installer Setttings. This captures the Setup menu changes ARC has made into those two memories so that you can reload from the them later, if need be, without undoing the changes ARC has made.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheLion* /forum/post/19198408
> 
> 
> Hello!
> 
> 
> I have a question regarding how ARC deals with bass response/roll-off.
> 
> 
> I will use up to 4 high performance sealed subwoofers (Seaton Submersive XL) in my system and I want to extend their low-frequency in-room response as low as practical (given the available headroom).
> 
> 
> ARC will flatten my frequency response. But how low does it do that? I will have enough headroom for a flat response down to 10Hz. The measured -3db point will depend on placement and room gain - so it is variable.
> 
> 
> Will ARC flatten my response down to the measured -3db point? Which roll-off curve does it apply below that? Can I manually edit the low point of flat response (eg. my measured -3db point due to lacking room gain is 13Hz - can I manually choose to EQ flat down to 10Hz?)?
> 
> 
> How does the "room gain" parameter interact with this? Does "room gain" act like a shelve filter? If I choose 3 db room gain - which frequency range will be elevated 3 db? Down to which frequency is "room gain" applied?
> 
> 
> Thank you. I am trying to decide if a D2V is right for my application (or if I need to employ some external PEQ unit)



Anthem has not published these details. We've had statements from them in the past that ARC Measures down to 5Hz, however, correction below 20Hz can be quite tricky because of difficulties getting useful Measurements down there. The latest "test" versions" of ARC put more emphasis on correction down to and below 20Hz, but we don't know the lower limit. Nor do we know the lower limit of Room Gain. We've seen some charts which clearly show Room Gain being applied as far down as 20Hz, but that's as low as the charts go


For your special situation, it would probably be best to talk to Anthem tech support directly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002* /forum/post/19197867
> 
> 
> Looking for anyone who has experienced this issue and may know a solution. I downloaded 3.0 from the password protected page and it seems to work perfectly. I used the quick measure procedure, ran a full test and when I tried to upload to the D2V I get the dreaded blue screen of death memory dump crash every time I try to upload. I had no issues with 2.4 doing this. The only error info I can see is the blue screen said IRQL equal less than - memory dump.
> 
> 
> Hope someone has an idea. Thanks



The usual suspect in this case would be the driver for your Serial port, but Windows crashes can come from unexpected causes. Give Anthem tech support a call and they may be able to help.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/19192444
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> 
> I haven't re-measured my ARC solution for some time now (I think since 2.4 official), and did so today with the 3.0 beta. I set all speakers to 0.0, then adjusted the noise level to 75 db on my RS with fresh batteries, and the sub to the same with it's volume control. For reference, my D2 is set up with volume at +10db max.
> 
> 
> When I measured, 3.0 came back with levels of 60db. At first, I thought I had a problem of some sort, but I seem to remember back a while ago that Bob proposed that the levels are now referenced to the max volume setting, therefore they would be set 10db lower to equate to 0 db reference? Not sure if I have that right.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I did a separate movie (7.1) and music (2.0) measure, and accepted all the proposed ARC targets (except I set my Thiel CS6's in music as "flat"). I have to say the result sounds better than I've heard before with ARC - the midrange is excellent, and my Thiel's really sing.
> 
> 
> In any case, can anyone verify what I'm seeing for the measured level?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I'm afraid I don't really have a good answer for what's going on in the ARC charts right now. Anthem has made numerous recent changes in the "test" versions trying to get the charts "right", and I don't have a handle on what combinations of stuff might still give problems. For example, there may be a difference because you are using a D2. I just don't know.


The good news is that it appears so far the actual ARC solution being produced and Uploaded is "correct" -- i.e., at 75dB given the way you set things up. You should be able to confirm this easily if you remember the normal volume levels you used while listening in the past. A 15dB volume change would be pretty blatant if it's actually there.


My only suggestion is that you give Anthem tech support a call with the details and see what they say.

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> NO!
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the manner of correction.


Please don't treat people like idiots if they get something wrong as it does not promote discussions.


----------



## TheLion




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19199329
> 
> 
> Anthem has not published these details. We've had statements from them in the past that ARC Measures down to 5Hz, however, correction below 20Hz can be quite tricky because of difficulties getting useful Measurements down there. The latest "test" versions" of ARC put more emphasis on correction down to and below 20Hz, but we don't know the lower limit. Nor do we know the lower limit of Room Gain. We've seen some charts which clearly show Room Gain being applied as far down as 20Hz, but that's as low as the charts go
> 
> 
> For your special situation, it would probably be best to talk to Anthem tech support directly.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I will do that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/19199723
> 
> 
> Thanks for the manner of correction.
> 
> 
> Please don't treat people like idiots if they get something wrong as it does not promote discussions.



It was not my intention to offend you, but rather to make sure that others spotted the clarification in the flurry of other recent posts, as getting this particular step backwards can really mess up your day with ARC.


My apologies.

--Bob


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19200108
> 
> 
> It was not my intention to offend you, but rather to make sure that others spotted the clarification in the flurry of other recent posts, as getting this particular step backwards can really mess up your day with ARC.
> 
> 
> My apologies.
> 
> --Bob




My take on this was that Bob was trying to stop others before they did this, not commenting on the post.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19200318
> 
> 
> My take on this was that Bob was trying to stop others before they did this, not commenting on the post.



+1

John


----------



## myc52002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19199358
> 
> 
> The usual suspect in this case would be the driver for your Serial port, but Windows crashes can come from unexpected causes. Give Anthem tech support a call and they may be able to help.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I have communicated with them and we are working through some steps. What is odd is I had done a number of measurements and uploads in the past 2 weeks on 2.4 after installing new subs and had zero issues. This cropped up after downloading 3.0 this week and trying to upload the new data from the new measurements.


----------



## jayray

We're almost at the 1000 pg. mark, not bad for a "niche" market product









John


----------



## myc52002

This is probably a stupid question but what the heck. I can not figure out how to post the graphs of my results. The graph page won't let me copy and paste or save in another format like Jpeg or PDF so what am I missing? Thanks!


I guess I should add in my thread search I saw that others are cutting and pasting into paint but that option does not pop up when I right click the mouse or drop down any tab. I just can't do a "copy" so there is no way to do a paste. This is on XP


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002* /forum/post/19200563
> 
> 
> This is probably a stupid question but what the heck. I can not figure out how to post the graphs of my results. The graph page won't let me copy and paste or save in another format like Jpeg or PDF so what am I missing? Thanks!
> 
> 
> I guess I should add in my thread search I saw that others are cutting and pasting into paint but that option does not pop up when I right click the mouse or drop down any tab. I just can't do a "copy" so there is no way to do a paste. This is on XP



Bring up Paint in XP, Go to your ARC Charts, Do Ctrl PrtScrn, Go back to Paint, Do Ctrl V. Now, you should see your chart in Paint. Next, save the chart in Paint and make sure the extension is .jpeg. Now when you post, click on the little paper clip(attachments), when the window appears, go to the location of where you saved your charts and select them. Next, click on upload, i think that's what it is, to upload your charts. That should do it. You can click on Preview to see what it will look like when you submit your post. Hope that helps.


----------



## favorini




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002* /forum/post/19200563
> 
> 
> I can not figure out how to post the graphs of my results. The graph page won't let me copy and paste or save in another format like Jpeg or PDF so what am I missing? [...] This is on XP



You can use the PrintScreen key to do a screen capture and then paste into Paint. To capture just the current window use Alt-PrintScreen. Note, it may be labeled PrtScn or PrntScrn on your keyboard.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19200459
> 
> 
> We're almost at the 1000 pg. mark, not bad for a "niche" market product
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



The page count will be different for each AVS viewer, depending on how they have set Posts/Page in their account


However, we are also nearing 30,000 posts, which is a nice round number (even the first digit).

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *favorini* /forum/post/19200651
> 
> 
> You can use the PrintScreen key to do a screen capture and then paste into Paint. To capture just the current window use Alt-PrintScreen. Note, it may be labeled PrtScn or PrntScrn on your keyboard.



I said Ctrl PrntScrn; but, I think the correct combination is Alt PrntScrn. It's definitely one of those two for sure. Eventually, amongst all of us on here, we will get it figured out.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002* /forum/post/19200563
> 
> 
> This is probably a stupid question but what the heck. I can not figure out how to post the graphs of my results. The graph page won't let me copy and paste or save in another format like Jpeg or PDF so what am I missing? Thanks!
> 
> 
> I guess I should add in my thread search I saw that others are cutting and pasting into paint but that option does not pop up when I right click the mouse or drop down any tab. I just can't do a "copy" so there is no way to do a paste. This is on XP



Is this what you are looking for?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post16310614 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002* /forum/post/19200448
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I have communicated with them and we are working through some steps. What is odd is I had done a number of measurements and uploads in the past 2 weeks on 2.4 after installing new subs and had zero issues. This cropped up after downloading 3.0 this week and trying to upload the new data from the new measurements.



One thing I always recommend with Windows, even though it does not force you to do it, is to reboot your computer after each uninstall and after each install just to make sure Windows is back in a fresh state before you do anything else.


That's why, in my post above, I suggested uninstalling 3.0 and reinstalling a freshly downloaded copy of it, with a reboot after each of those, "just in case".


The same thing with Serial port drivers. If you uninstall or install a driver, you should definitely reboot before moving on.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I should add that Mikefl52 is *CORRECT* about having to reload settings if you have just used the new Quick Measure feature in the latest "test" ARC. That feature resets portions of the Setup menu to the default settings ARC uses during Measurement (just as happens when you start a Measurement as a matter of fact). And leaves it that way!


So you need to get the stuff ARC uses in Setup back in place afterwards. If you do an ARC Upload (or new Measurement and then an Upload) after finishing with Quick Measure, then you are good to go. The Upload puts the Setup settings ARC uses back in place.


But if you don't do that, another way to get back to normal in Setup is to Reload Saved User or Installer Settings, presuming what you last saved in them is up to date -- at the least is from after the last ARC Upload.

--Bob


----------



## netroamer

After Anthem Tech confirmed that they could not duplicate, on their D2v, the polarity/phase changes I experienced, after two uploads of new ARC 3.0 data, I purged the ARC data from my D2v, reset all the Setup Menu settings and downloaded a fresh copy of ARC 3.0. I removed the old version from my laptop and did a complete setup. Using this new version, I uploaded the same ARC file and it made no changes to the polarity/phase settings.


----------



## peechus

I"m confused on this one, are they're two distinct response curves (7.1, stereo) that activate when either movie or music is chosen. If I recall correctly from an earlier post by Bob, the two are very similar. As I sit in a different location and higher chair when I listen to two channel music than when watching a movie can I optimize my D2v as such? Clarity anyone?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/19201532
> 
> 
> I"m confused on this one, are they're two distinct response curves (7.1, stereo) that activate when either movie or music is chosen. If I recall correctly from an earlier post by Bob, the two are very similar. As I sit in a different location and higher chair when I listen to two channel music than when watching a movie can I optimize my D2v as such? Clarity anyone?



If in ARC (advanced mode) you select that music is not the same as movie then you get two measurements. It will ask you to position the mike for movie first then will do it again for music. For your music your first mike position should be at the height and position of your listening position. This one is important for setting the volume trims. You can have the other mike measurement positions different if you like also.


----------



## jayray

For those with PBK subs and ARC, the beta versions of PBK, based on ARC v3.0, is on the password protected page but is in the folder for ARC. So download the ARC beta and PBK will be there too. I have tried it alone and then with ARC and the combo is working very well. The LFE is tighter than with ARC alone and some bloated bass I was getting is gone. Now it is easier to listen to testing discs I use with lots of LFE, for longer times. Watched Prince of Persia and this has lots of pant moving LFE, swirling surround sound and very detailed sound effects. Good demo disc.

John


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19201716
> 
> 
> For those with PBK subs and ARC, the beta versions of PBK, based on ARC v3.0, is on the password protected page but is in the folder for ARC. So download the ARC beta and PBK will be there too. I have tried it alone and then with ARC and the combo is working very well. The LFE is tighter than with ARC alone and some bloated bass I was getting is gone. Now it is easier to listen to testing discs I use with lots of LFE, for longer times. Watched Prince of Persia and this has lots of pant moving LFE, swirling surround sound and very detailed sound effects. Good demo disc.
> 
> John



Did you rerun both PBK and ARC or just upload your old PBK data using the Beta release?


----------



## xtrips

Guys....1000 pages....isn't that worth a celebration? some champagne?


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It was not my intention to offend you, but rather to make sure that others spotted the clarification in the flurry of other recent posts, as getting this particular step backwards can really mess up your day with ARC.
> 
> 
> My apologies.
> 
> --Bob



Point taken.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/19201532
> 
> 
> I"m confused on this one, are they're two distinct response curves (7.1, stereo) that activate when either movie or music is chosen. If I recall correctly from an earlier post by Bob, the two are very similar. As I sit in a different location and higher chair when I listen to two channel music than when watching a movie can I optimize my D2v as such? Clarity anyone?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19201584
> 
> 
> If in ARC (advanced mode) you select that music is not the same as movie then you get two measurements. It will ask you to position the mike for movie first then will do it again for music. For your music your first mike position should be at the height and position of your listening position. This one is important for setting the volume trims. You can have the other mike measurement positions different if you like also.



Right, but don't go hog wild using different positioning for Movie and Music. Remember that the Anthem only has one set of speaker volume trims and speaker distance adjustments. Movie and Music configurations will need to share those. But taking due care for that, yes you can use different mic positions (i.e., different seating focus) as one of the differences between Movie and Music. (ARC will complain if it can't get the volume portion of the solution to work across both the Movie and Music Measurements.)


A more common difference between Movie and Music, is to exclude some speakers for Music, or to make a room configuration change, such as having the projection screen raised for Music.


Note for newbies: The Movie and Music names are just for convenience. ARC doesn't do anything different in setting up the solution or in using it during listening, except for things you tell it to do such as excluding some speakers for Music. They could just as well be named Fred and George. If you exclude speakers in your Music configuration, for example, then you will want to use the MOVIE configuration when playing multi-channel music discs such as SACD or music Blu-Ray discs. And that's just fine.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/19202011
> 
> 
> Guys....1000 pages....isn't that worth a celebration? some champagne?



I suppose it depends on when you celebrated the end of the Millenium (counting from 0 or from 1). Personally, I'm waiting for 30,000 posts.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19202078
> 
> 
> I suppose it depends on when you celebrated the end of the Millenium (counting from 0 or from 1). Personally, I'm waiting for 30,000 posts.
> 
> --Bob



True, depends on how you have your user settings for the board...


I have as many posts per page so my screen says there are only 600 pages.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/19201803
> 
> 
> Did you rerun both PBK and ARC or just upload your old PBK data using the Beta release?



I did a new measurement with the sub 25 already EQd with pbk. So pbk first then did ARC.

John


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19199382
> 
> 
> I'm afraid I don't really have a good answer for what's going on in the ARC charts right now. Anthem has made numerous recent changes in the "test" versions trying to get the charts "right", and I don't have a handle on what combinations of stuff might still give problems. For example, there may be a difference because you are using a D2. I just don't know.
> 
> 
> The good news is that it appears so far the actual ARC solution being produced and Uploaded is "correct" -- i.e., at 75dB given the way you set things up. You should be able to confirm this easily if you remember the normal volume levels you used while listening in the past. A 15dB volume change would be pretty blatant if it's actually there.
> 
> 
> My only suggestion is that you give Anthem tech support a call with the details and see what they say.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, the only combo of things I can think of are:


1. My volume is set at +10db max, and the level might be ref to 0db, as you supposed previously


2. My L, R, and C are hooked up using balanced, and the rest single ended. Not sure what this would do, but that's what I have


I'll try Anthem support.


By the way, the end result volumes seem normal and where they should be - and it sounds very very good!


----------



## myc52002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19200702
> 
> 
> One thing I always recommend with Windows, even though it does not force you to do it, is to reboot your computer after each uninstall and after each install just to make sure Windows is back in a fresh state before you do anything else.
> 
> 
> That's why, in my post above, I suggested uninstalling 3.0 and reinstalling a freshly downloaded copy of it, with a reboot after each of those, "just in case".
> 
> 
> The same thing with Serial port drivers. If you uninstall or install a driver, you should definitely reboot before moving on.
> 
> --Bob



Got it working. For some reason since I loaded 3.0 the serial adapter assigns to com port 9 and all the settings are wrong, which was not the case previously. I just created a new com connection with the correct parameters and problem solved. Thanks for the insight


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002* /forum/post/19202864
> 
> 
> Got it working. For some reason since I loaded 3.0 the serial adapter assigns to com port 9 and all the settings are wrong, which was not the case previously. I just created a new com connection with the correct parameters and problem solved. Thanks for the insight



Very strange. But I'm glad you got it working!

--Bob


----------



## favorini

I have noticed that with some USB to Serial adapters, they change their COM port number if you move them to a different USB port. Typically, this will end up being COM n+1 if the highest previous COM port was COM n.


----------



## Texas steve

John, notice any difference with the beta PBK/ARC vs previous? Deciding if I should run again? My dogs really dont like PBK or ARC!!












> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19202215
> 
> 
> I did a new measurement with the sub 25 already EQd with pbk. So pbk first then did ARC.
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19204085
> 
> 
> John, notice any difference with the beta PBK/ARC vs previous? Deciding if I should run again? My dogs really dont like PBK or ARC!!



Steve,I posted this on the sub 25 thread.

_For those with PBK subs and ARC, the beta versions of PBK, based on ARC v3.0, is on the password protected page but is in the folder for ARC. So download the ARC beta and PBK will be there too. I have tried it alone and then with ARC and the combo is working very well. The LFE is tighter than with ARC alone and some bloated bass I was getting is gone. Now it is easier to listen to testing discs I use with lots of LFE, for longer times. Watched Prince of Persia and this has lots of pant moving LFE, swirling surround sound and very detailed sound effects. Good demo disc._


I did notice a difference and looking at my charts, the measurement with PBK first looks quite smooth and flat from 100 to 20Hz, so perhaps fewer resources were used to correct it, leaving more for other problems. Just speculation on my part.

John


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks John, guess I should have checked there first (normally do)










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19204122
> 
> 
> Steve,I posted this on the sub 25 thread.
> 
> _For those with PBK subs and ARC, the beta versions of PBK, based on ARC v3.0, is on the password protected page but is in the folder for ARC. So download the ARC beta and PBK will be there too. I have tried it alone and then with ARC and the combo is working very well. The LFE is tighter than with ARC alone and some bloated bass I was getting is gone. Now it is easier to listen to testing discs I use with lots of LFE, for longer times. Watched Prince of Persia and this has lots of pant moving LFE, swirling surround sound and very detailed sound effects. Good demo disc._
> 
> 
> I did notice a difference and looking at my charts, the measurement with PBK first looks quite smooth and flat from 100 to 20Hz, so perhaps fewer resources were used to correct it, leaving more for other problems. Just speculation on my part.
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks John, guess I should have checked there first (normally do)



Not to worry Steve, I just got lazy and didn't want to type it again









John


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Note for newbies: The Movie and Music names are just for convenience. ARC doesn't do anything different in setting up the solution or in using it during listening, except for things you tell it to do such as excluding some speakers for Music. They could just as well be named Fred and George. If you exclude speakers in your Music configuration, for example, then you will want to use the MOVIE configuration when playing multi-channel music discs such as SACD or music Blu-Ray discs. And that's just fine.
> 
> --Bob



If there is truly no difference, would it be simpler to modify the Targets Panel to check off the speakers you want to use for music after the movie sweep and forgo the extra time it takes for a separate music sweep? I seem to remember that was possible in older ARC versions.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19204286
> 
> 
> Not to worry Steve, I just got lazy and didn't want to type it again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



You weren't lazy John. You did post it here #29970.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/19204320
> 
> 
> If there is truly no difference, would it be simpler to modify the Targets Panel to check off the speakers you want to use for music after the movie sweep and forgo the extra time it takes for a separate music sweep? I seem to remember that was possible in older ARC versions.



I do a 7.1 measure with music the same as movie and after that I just put "n" into the speaker window, press enter and it goes to "no speaker". This eliminates another measuremnet for music. I take out everything except my fronts.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19204323
> 
> 
> You weren't lazy John. You did post it here #29970.



Not lazy, just forgetful









John


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19201716
> 
> 
> For those with PBK subs and ARC, the beta versions of PBK, based on ARC v3.0, is on the password protected page but is in the folder for ARC. So download the ARC beta and PBK will be there too. I have tried it alone and then with ARC and the combo is working very well. The LFE is tighter than with ARC alone and some bloated bass I was getting is gone. Now it is easier to listen to testing discs I use with lots of LFE, for longer times. Watched Prince of Persia and this has lots of pant moving LFE, swirling surround sound and very detailed sound effects. Good demo disc.
> 
> John



Hello John,

I just ordered a Sub1 from Paradigm and am giddy about it's arrival to complete my Sig6,C3,ADP3 set up. It is replacing a REL Stadium III Sub in a 5.1 speaker system controlled by a D2 processor and Anthem/Bryston amps. In reading the downloaded owner's manual, in the Fine Tuning section, it says to set cut off freq. to lowest(50Hz) setting and raise sub level to match volume of front speakers after setting phase alignment. Then says if you have an A/V processor, to set the cut off to bypass afterward. Shouldn't the volume be set in the D2 for the sub at 75 db with the use of a sound meter and 0 db for front and 0 db gain for sub and let ARC set the levels after PBK is run? Also any other techniques in ARC mic measurement patterns and suggestions would be greatly appreciated to maximize my results.

Your Sub25 must sound AWESOME in your system. I'm sure a lot of us are jealous! Thanks for your much appreciated time, John F.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> If there is truly no difference, would it be simpler to modify the Targets Panel to check off the speakers you want to use for music after the movie sweep and forgo the extra time it takes for a separate music sweep? I seem to remember that was possible in older ARC versions.



1) Setting different room gains for movies & music

2) Perhaps someone might want no sub for music

3) More resources can be applied to more critical 2(.1) channel music if the other speakers are not included in the analysis


These are just some thoughts as to why you might want two solutions rather than simply "switching" off speakers.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19205202
> 
> 
> Hello John,
> 
> I just ordered a Sub1 from Paradigm and am giddy about it's arrival to complete my Sig6,C3,ADP3 set up. It is replacing a REL Stadium III Sub in a 5.1 speaker system controlled by a D2 processor and Anthem/Bryston amps. In reading the downloaded owner's manual, in the Fine Tuning section, it says to set cut off freq. to lowest(50Hz) setting and raise sub level to match volume of front speakers after setting phase alignment. Then says if you have an A/V processor, to set the cut off to bypass afterward. Shouldn't the volume be set in the D2 for the sub at 75 db with the use of a sound meter and 0 db for front and 0 db gain for sub and let ARC set the levels after PBK is run? Also any other techniques in ARC mic measurement patterns and suggestions would be greatly appreciated to maximize my results.
> 
> Your Sub25 must sound AWESOME in your system. I'm sure a lot of us are jealous! Thanks for your much appreciated time, John F.




For ARC, using one sub, just set test tone to whatever gives you 75dB. Do the same for the sub but here you adjust the sub level on the back of the sub to give you 75dB. ARC sets crossovers and cutoffs, you shouldn't. Polarity and phase are adjusted by the user not ARC. After this, just run ARC and try the default settings before playing around with the target values. I have settled on what ARC set and am very pleased. This is also what Nick has recommended on many occasions and in the release notes for ARC. Good luck and report back. Yes the sub 25 sounds and feels awesome. The sub1 will too.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19205202
> 
> 
> Hello John,
> 
> I just ordered a Sub1 from Paradigm and am giddy about it's arrival to complete my Sig6,C3,ADP3 set up. It is replacing a REL Stadium III Sub in a 5.1 speaker system controlled by a D2 processor and Anthem/Bryston amps. In reading the downloaded owner's manual, in the Fine Tuning section, it says to set cut off freq. to lowest(50Hz) setting and raise sub level to match volume of front speakers after setting phase alignment. Then says if you have an A/V processor, to set the cut off to bypass afterward. Shouldn't the volume be set in the D2 for the sub at 75 db with the use of a sound meter and 0 db for front and 0 db gain for sub and let ARC set the levels after PBK is run? Also any other techniques in ARC mic measurement patterns and suggestions would be greatly appreciated to maximize my results.
> 
> Your Sub25 must sound AWESOME in your system. I'm sure a lot of us are jealous! Thanks for your much appreciated time, John F.



John I lived with a Sub 1 for about 8 weeks before my Sub 2 arrived Wednesday. You will enjoy it.

Amazingly our systems are very similar. D2 with multiple Bryston amps and a Paradigm Sub.

Your description above for setting the Sub 1 is correct when you use the D2 ARC system. If you use the RBK Sub system that comes with the Sub 1. The RBK instructions instruct you to set the Freq to Bypass, Phase to "0", and the volume to the mid range detent position before starting the RBK.

The fine tuning instructions may have been inserted for someone who is not using the RBK or ARC setups or adjusting after the fact.




RBK and ARC Charts for the Sub 1 

RBK and ARC Charts for the Sub 2


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19204610
> 
> 
> I do a 7.1 measure with music the same as movie and after that I just put "n" into the speaker window, press enter and it goes to "no speaker". This eliminates another measuremnet for music. I take out everything except my fronts.
> 
> John



I forgot to mention, then do a recalculation before uploading. ARC will now use resources according to your new config ie. with fronts only. You'll see the curves change when you do this.


----------



## J. FRICANO

Thank you very much Guys for your replies. I can't wait to try this sub out! John F.


----------



## Stevetd

Ok I'm confused. I am getting ready to replace an Integra 80.1 with a D2v (I previously replaced the 80.1 in my other HT with a 50v) and I was looking through the manual to prepare for the installation and I came across the part where it recommends selecting 1 Sub if using ARC. So I go into my 50v's menu and discover that you cannot set different distances for each sub even though there are two different connections for subs. I only use one sub with the 50v so it wasn't an issue. Am I missing something? Do I need to move my 2 subs to sit next to each other? What are you guys doing with two subs? I'm having a hard time grasping that a $2400 unit will let you time align two separate subs and an $8000 unit can't


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/19205848
> 
> 
> Ok I’m confused…. I am getting ready to replace an Integra 80.1 with a D2v (I previously replaced the 80.1 in my other HT with a 50v) and I was looking through the manual to prepare for the installation and I came across the part where it recommends selecting “1 Sub” if using ARC. So I go into my 50v’s menu and discover that you cannot set different distances for each sub even though there are two different connections for subs. I only use one sub with the 50v so it wasn't an issue. Am I missing something? Do I need to move my 2 subs to sit next to each other? What are you guys doing with two subs? I’m having a hard time grasping that a $2400 unit will let you time align two separate subs and an $8000 unit can’t……



The 4 available sub outputs (2 RCA and 2 XLR) all carry the same signal. So there is only one volume trim, distance (timing) adjustment, polarity and phase control affecting all 4 outputs equally. This is a hardware limitation.


In the case of 2 subs, that means you want to use subs that have their own, built in controls for polarity and phase (as well as volume of course). For distance, use the average distance of the two subs. This works fine for the subs since bass frequencies are not localizable anyway. Adjust for best polarity and phase from each sub (one sub powered at a time) AFTER setting this average distance. I.e., after setting distance, and getting the volume balance fairly close, adjust each sub by itself for the best combo of polarity and phase vs. the Left Front speaker using the controls on each sub. Some guidance on this will be found in the post links in the first post of this thread.


--------------------------------------


Measure for ARC *AFTER* doing the above (including balancing the volume put out by each of your subs -- i.e., set roughly 72dB from each to get roughly 75dB when they play together).


ARC hears your combo of subs playing together, and so the Room Correction it applies will adjust for that combo (including any interaction between the subs). You must set "1 Sub" in your speaker configuration when using ARC, because the 2 subs setting alters the meaning of the sub volume trim value which conflicts with the value ARC Uploads into the Setup menu.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/19204320
> 
> 
> If there is truly no difference, would it be simpler to modify the Targets Panel to check off the speakers you want to use for music after the movie sweep and forgo the extra time it takes for a separate music sweep? I seem to remember that was possible in older ARC versions.



Yes. As Jayray says, select "Same As" for Music when doing your ARC Measurement so you only have to go once around the mic positions.


Then go into the Targets window, clear the Same As check box for Music, and put an "n" in the cutoff line for any speakers you wish to eliminate. Note that if you eliminate the subwoofer, then LF/RF must be "Full Range".


When you accept these Targets changes, you will find you need to re-Calculate. Your new Music solution (select the charts in the View menu) will only use the speakers you specified.


So you only really need to do the second pass of mic positioning for Music if you want something different either in the room (e.g., projection screen up) or in the mic positions -- or if like me you just want to get the second pass of charts as a way to double check the quality of the Measurements for Movie.

--Bob


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What are you guys doing with two subs? I'm having a hard time grasping that a $2400 unit will let you time align two separate subs and an $8000 unit can't



The 80.1 uses Audyssey which does time alignment. ARC works in the frequency domain and does no time alignment for any speaker. You have to go in and set the distances. The two sub outlets on the D2v have identical outputs so they are really not sub1 & sub2 but the same as a splitter essentially.


I use the SVS AS-EQ1 to sort out my two subs. This is an Audyssey based system for handling 2 subs which includes taking one sub signal & in theory time & level corrects based upon up to 32 readings for 2 subs.


So I correct the subs using the AS-EQ1 & then let ARC do it's magic with the whole system.


There is lots of debate on this whole subject of room correction especially using multiple subs which could go on forever, but bottom line for me is that to my ears ARC does a great job & using the AS-EQ1 helps the sub response.


By the way congrats on the D2v. The Statements are great products and once you have it set up I am sure that you will be very happy.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Post #30,000













--Bob


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19206028
> 
> 
> The 4 available sub outputs (2 RCA and 2 XLR) all carry the same signal. So there is only one volume trim, distance (timing) adjustment, polarity and phase control affecting all 4 outputs equally. This is a hardware limitation.
> 
> 
> In the case of 2 subs, that means you want to use subs that have their own, built in controls for polarity and phase (as well as volume of course). For distance, use the average distance of the two subs. This works fine for the subs since bass frequencies are not localizable anyway. Adjust for best polarity and phase from each sub (one sub powered at a time) AFTER setting this average distance. I.e., after setting distance, and getting the volume balance fairly close, adjust each sub by itself for the best combo of polarity and phase vs. the Left Front speaker using the controls on each sub. Some guidance on this will be found in the post links in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Measure for ARC *AFTER* doing the above (including balancing the volume put out by each of your subs -- i.e., set roughly 72dB from each to get roughly 75dB when they play together).
> 
> 
> ARC hears your combo of subs playing together, and so the Room Correction it applies will adjust for that combo (including any interaction between the subs). You must set "1 Sub" in your speaker configuration when using ARC, because the 2 subs setting alters the meaning of the sub volume trim value which conflicts with the value ARC Uploads into the Setup menu.
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob, This is VERY interesting as ARC defaults to 2 Subs when opened for measurement and I have been using the default for my current sets of graphs. I would imagine others have done the same. ARC should warn of this or possibly default to 1 sub as I have to believe more people have 1 sub rather than 2. By the way what irregularities might I expect as a result of the incorrect setting of 2 subs when I only have 1?

Thank you AGAIN for your insight and for alerting me to this mistake. INVALUABLE input, as usual, on your part! Thanks again, John Fricano.


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I do a 7.1 measure with music the same as movie and after that I just put "n" into the speaker window, press enter and it goes to "no speaker". This eliminates another measuremnet for music. I take out everything except my fronts.
> 
> John



Why didn't I think of that after doing all those sets of double measurements. It seems so intuitively obvious that I am surprised that ARC doesn't give the option to do exactly that, take one set of readings and let you process it two ways. Thanks for saving me lots of time in the future.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19206142
> 
> 
> Hello Bob, This is VERY interesting as ARC defaults to 2 Subs when opened for measurement and I have been using the default for my current sets of graphs. I would imagine others have done the same. ARC should warn of this or possibly default to 1 sub as I have to believe more people have 1 sub rather than 2. By the way what irregularities might I expect as a result of the incorrect setting of 2 subs when I only have 1?
> 
> Thank you AGAIN for your insight and for alerting me to this mistake. INVALUABLE input, as usual, on your part! Thanks again, John Fricano.



The only effect is that the volume trim for your 2 subs will be incorrect. Reset your speaker configuration to 1 sub and re-Measure.


(It actually is mentioned in the Manual, but I agree that a warning in the ARC App itself would be useful.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A bit of thread history:


Post #1: Levesque, 3/31/06
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=678260 


Post #10,000: Rob Tomlin, 11/25/07
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post12313079 


Post #20,000: Bob Pariseau, 3/11/09
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post16019145 


Post #30,000: Bob Pariseau, 9/17/10
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post19206094 


--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/19206143
> 
> 
> Why didn't I think of that after doing all those sets of double measurements. It seems so intuitively obvious that I am surprised that ARC doesn't give the option to do exactly that, take one set of readings and let you process it two ways. Thanks for saving me lots of time in the future.



I didn't think of it until Nick mentioned it. I can't tell you how much time it has saved me since I do many mesurements and can't decide whether my sub should be included for music. Jury's still out









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19206094
> 
> 
> Post #30,000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Were you lurking in the wires or should I say weeds to get that in









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Timing is everything....

--Bob


----------



## Stevetd

Bob and Mike,


Thank you for your replies. That puts my mind at ease. My subs are JL f113s, should I use their built in EQ first and then do ARC.


Mike, I was using Audyssey Pro on the 80.1 and the 50v with ARC is a very noticeable improvement!


Bob, I agree with all the other posters that your input here is very much appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/19206335
> 
> 
> Bob and Mike,
> 
> 
> Thank you for your replies. That puts my mind at ease. My subs are JL f113s, should I use their built in EQ first and then do ARC.
> 
> 
> Mike, I was using Audyssey Pro on the 80.1 and the 50v with ARC is a very noticeable improvement!
> 
> 
> Bob, I agree with all the other posters that your input here is very much appreciated. Thanks!



My bias is to do the minimum processing that gets the job done, so I'd say you should first try bypassing the EQ in the subs and seeing if ARC comes up with a pleasing solution doing all the work itself.


If not, then go back and EQ each sub on its own (only one sub powered), and then power them both up and do your ARC Measurement on top of that so that ARC hears the EQ processed bass from each sub.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19206094
> 
> 
> Post #30,000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Congrats Bob and hope your here for another 30K.


----------



## SimonNo10

Well I have my Anthem D2v now after having it delivered late yesterday. One thing I was told was Anthem are now supplying a new mic stand thats adjustable but I opened mine today to find just a pole and base no boom mic so basically the same as my brothers (Bladernr). No big deal as I have the mic stand that came with my Audyssey Pro kit.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19206081
> 
> 
> Yes. As Jayray says, select "Same As" for Music when doing your ARC Measurement so you only have to go once around the mic positions.
> 
> 
> Then go into the Targets window, clear the Same As check box for Music, and put an "n" in the cutoff line for any speakers you wish to eliminate. Note that if you eliminate the subwoofer, then LF/RF must be "Full Range".
> 
> 
> When you accept these Targets changes, you will find you need to re-Calculate. Your new Music solution (select the charts in the View menu) will only use the speakers you specified.
> 
> 
> So you only really need to do the second pass of mic positioning for Music if you want something different either in the room (e.g., projection screen up) or in the mic positions -- or if like me you just want to get the second pass of charts as a way to double check the quality of the Measurements for Movie.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Isn't the amount/level of frequency content projected into a room and read by the ARC microphone different whether one has 2.1 speakers or 5.1/7.1? By this I mean that when you perform a full sweep across multiple speakers, doesn't ARC use the combined sound levels from all speakers to set its trims? Aren't the trims different if you performed separate calibrations for 2.1 and 5.1/7.1 versus doing one multi-sweep and 'removing' the speakers you don't need for the music configuration?


Let's say you have 5.1/7.1 setup and your room produces a given amount of SPL in the 500 - 1000Hz range. ARC then would set its trims knowing that all 5 or 7 speakers contributed to this range to produce a combined refernce level of 75dB. Now if you 'remove' all speakers save the LF/RF without doing a separate 2.x measurement, then the SPL in the room in the 500 - 1000Hz range would be dramatically reduced due to the 'removal' of the center and back/surround speakers.


I think that's why one still needs to go through the hassle and re-measure for the second music configuration. I hope I made myself clear...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19207684
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Isn't the amount/level of frequency content projected into a room and read by the ARC microphone different whether one has 2.1 speakers or 5.1/7.1? By this I mean that when you perform a full sweep across multiple speakers, doesn't ARC use the combined sound levels from all speakers to set its trims? Aren't the trims different if you performed separate calibrations for 2.1 and 5.1/7.1 versus doing one multi-sweep and 'removing' the speakers you don't need for the music configuration?
> 
> 
> Let's say you have 5.1/7.1 setup and your room produces a given amount of SPL in the 500 - 1000Hz range. ARC then would set its trims knowing that all 5 or 7 speakers contributed to this range to produce a combined refernce level of 75dB. Now if you 'remove' all speakers save the LF/RF without doing a separate 2.x measurement, then the SPL in the room in the 500 - 1000Hz range would be dramatically reduced due to the 'removal' of the center and back/surround speakers.
> 
> 
> I think that's why one still needs to go through the hassle and re-measure for the second music configuration. I hope I made myself clear...



No. The audio mixes already assume each speaker will produce the same volume with the same input, i.e., that they are balanced in volume. It is up to the content producer to decide how they want to achieve a given, combined volume at each point in the mix -- either lots through one speaker or less each through some combo of speakers.


The only time having a bunch of speakers defined affects the volume trim for any given speaker is if extreme trims are needed so ARC has to shift the whole solution to stay within the available trim adjustment range.


Or another way to look at this is to remember that ARC has only one volume trim to work with for, say LF, even if LF is part of a 7.1 mix for Movies but only a 2.0 mix for Music. So it makes no difference if you turn off the surrounds AFTER ARC has made that decision.


----------------------------------------


Now if your main speakers differ significantly in their bass response, then you may find that the crossovers set for the 7.1 mix are not the ones ARC would have chosen for a 2.1 mix. So if you Measure for 7.1 and then manually disable the surrounds the crossovers ARC uses may not be quite as good for the 2.1 solution as if you had Measured for it as well.


But ARC gives priority to bass support for LF/RF so if you drop the surrounds the odds are the crossovers will still be close to what ARC would have chosen if you Measured without them. ARC may have a higher "cutoff" for the sub since it was expecting the sub to have to support surrounds that were weaker in bass, but as long as you get clean curves in the result you don't have a resource problem from that higher cutoff, and so no problem.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19207744
> 
> 
> No. The audio mixes already assume each speaker will produce the same volume with the same input, i.e., that they are balanced in volume. It is up to the content producer to decide how they want to achieve a given, combined volume at each point in the mix -- either lots through one speaker or less each through some combo of speakers.
> 
> 
> The only time having a bunch of speakers defined affects the volume trim for any given speaker is if extreme trims are needed so ARC has to shift the whole solution to stay within the available trim adjustment range.
> 
> 
> Or another way to look at this is to remember that ARC has only one volume trim to work with for, say LF, even if LF is part of a 7.1 mix for Movies but only a 2.0 mix for Music. So it makes no difference if you turn off the surrounds AFTER ARC has made that decision.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now if your main speakers differ significantly in their bass response, then you may find that the crossovers set for the 7.1 mix are not the ones ARC would have chosen for a 2.1 mix. So if you Measure for 7.1 and then manually disable the surrounds the crossovers ARC uses may not be quite as good for the 2.1 solution as if you had Measured for it as well.
> 
> 
> But ARC gives priority to bass support for LF/RF so if you drop the surrounds the odds are the crossovers will still be close to what ARC would have chosen if you Measured without them. ARC may have a higher "cutoff" for the sub since it was expecting the sub to have to support surrounds that were weaker in bass, but as long as you get clean curves in the result you don't have a resource problem from that higher cutoff, and so no problem.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the insightful response. I happen to have a system where my 2.1 response is somewhat different than the 5.1 response, especially the low frequency response. My high end sub cutoff in 2.1 is 5Hz more than its 5.1 response hence the rational to do 2 separate mesurements for music and movie modes.


Nonetheless, good to know that with adequate speakers, one only needs to perform only one ARC measurement for both music/movie modes.


----------



## xtrips

Hello


In order to address some shortcomings of my Epson 9500UB projector I have the intention of running my next calibration process while connecting my pattern generator, a Quantumdata 780, directly through my D2v. This way I am expecting to be able to better control my Gamma, RGB Grayscale and Gamut. The reason is that using solely my projector settings I am out of range.

As the procedure is long and tiring I am asking anyone with experience with the D2v video processor to share his thoughts with me.


Thank you


----------



## JimmyTango

Any word on ARC 3.0 release?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Only that it has not happened yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/19208834
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> In order to address some shortcomings of my Epson 9500UB projector I have the intention of running my next calibration process while connecting my pattern generator, a Quantumdata 780, directly through my D2v. This way I am expecting to be able to better control my Gamma, RGB Grayscale and Gamut. The reason is that using solely my projector settings I am out of range.
> 
> As the procedure is long and tiring I am asking anyone with experience with the D2v video processor to share his thoughts with me.
> 
> 
> Thank you



Remember that the level settings in the D2v (e.g., Brightness & Contrast) are INPUT settings not output. Ideally you should only use them to correct for defects in your Source devices. If you use them to correct for defects in the display, you will need to make the adjustment in the Video Source Adjust menu for EACH of your Sources.


The Gamma Correction adjustment on the other hand is an Output setting, but for technical reasons it is also found in the Video Source Adjust menu which means whatever setting you decide to use you will need to duplicate for each Source.


You should look into using the Custom Gamma Correction available via the Live Video Settings Editor application. You can build a single gray scale curve or separate correction curves for R, G, and B. Once built, you can upload that into the D2v and select the Custom option in Video Source Adjust > Output. The tool for building the curves provides an easy way to make a simple exponential curve that you can then tweak to fine tune the result.

--Bob


----------



## Janski

Hello Everyone,


30,000 posts! I'd wager 12,000 of them are from the desk of Mr. Pariseau! Thanks Bob! That was a very graphic popping of the cork!

----------------------------------

We have a need to set the phase of our subwoofers in order to ensure all sounds arrive at your ear at the exact same time from all speakers simultaneously. For if they do not, some output from your mains may subtract from the output of your sub, or one sub from another or vice-versa. Ever see a driver thumping, but you can't hear alot of output? It could be cancellation. If the phase is set correctly, you will notice the potential for louder output and your drivers will work easier and together instead of against each other. Phase is most often in need of adjustment when subs and speakers are not all the same distance from you, or the room shape is irregular or objects in it affect sound.


To set the phase of one or multiple subwoofers, I've found it becomes easy to find the best setting if you have access to use a function generator and oscilloscope. (or at least a Function Generator) Here is my procedure. (ideally requires two people and a few beers or like concoction.)


Setting Subwoofer Phase to match mains (1 or 2 subs):


- Connect the function generator to a set of RCAs and also connect the oscilloscope to the output of the function generator

- Set the function generator to generate a sine wave, frequency = the x-over upper cutoff frequency of your Anthem (note 1)

- Use the oscilloscope to set the function generator easure a 1 Volt peak to peak sine wave (note 2)

- Being sure you have a 1 Volt p-p sine wave, connect the other end of the RCA from the Function Generator to an input of your anthem

- If you have two subwoofers, turn one of them off (Set one initially)

- Turn on your Anthem and when ready to hear a constant, annoying noise, have the proprieter of the estate sit in his/her chair

- Ensuring a low volume level is selected, select the input you connected the FG to


* SETTING THE PHASE OF ONE SUBWOOFER TO MATCH MAINS:

- Adjust the volume to emit a comfortable, yet revealing amount of the tone

- Have your buddy adjust the phase setting on woofer one slowly from 0 to 180 degrees and listen carefully for variations in the amplitude of the sound

- Repeat the above, 180 to 0 and back again as many times as it takes for you to be sure where the amplitude or level of the sound is highest

- Once you are sure where the setting is loudest, leave the phase adjustment on sub 1 set in the center of the area where you heard the highest sound amplitude (note 3)


* SETTING THE PHASE OF A 2nd SUBWOOFER:

- Now, power on the second subwoofer, if you have one, and repeat the above procedure with your second subwoofer in addition to your mains and first subwoofer. (note 4)


After performing the above procedure, you need to run ARC again because your level of bass may have changed which may result in a less clear soundstage if not compensated for.


Notes:

1.) The upper cutoff frequency is used (usually 90-120 Hz) because higher frequencies are a 'tighter' match while also applicable to lower freqs. The 'sweet spot' on your phase adjustment will be smaller with a higher frequency because the wavelength of a higher frequency is shorter than that of a lower frequency.


2.) One Volt peak to peak is the standard max. amplitude of an audio input signal. Should you exceed this significantly, or input a type of wave other than sine, you may cause damage to your system. If you are unsure, or do not have an oscilloscope to measure the level, (A Volt memter measures the RMS value which is roughly 70% of peak on avg) then use an amplitude of 0 and while listening at a usual level with the Anthem, increase the output of the generator until it is a volume you are accustomed to for the volume setting on the Anthem.


3.) You may additionally use this technique to try different locations for your subwoofer, but it would not give you an impression of the characteristics or the sound, just the level or most resonant location. (Not necessarily the best)


4.) At this stage (sub 2) do not re-adjust the phase on your first subwoofer, or else it will no longer be in phase with your mains. Only adjust the phase of your second subwoofer.


5.) As has been noted many times in this excellent forum, if you have two subs, there is only the possibility to input one distance into your Anthem, so use one figure which is the average of both. (Dist1 + Dist2) / 2


The above procedure has made it obvious to several people as to what their best setting is and has resulted in superior sound and the possibility of more bass output where lacking.


Note to Anthem: Perhaps the Anthem firware could be updated to include a new feature to emit a continuous 'Subwoofer phase alignment tone' which would enable us to perform a calibration similar to what we accomplish here?


Happy Listening,

Mike


----------



## tngiloy

Here are my new charts using ARC 3.0 with v1.47f on my D2. None of the settings were tweaked, everything was uploaded as ARC calculated it.

BTW, v1.47f has been working flawlessly with the most recent upload.


I'm not an very good at reading charts, but to me the music chart looks great. Room gain seems a little low compared to movie room gain, but it sounds great.


Movie also sounds great, but the subwoofer reading doesn't make sense to me. The actual reading looks better than the ARC solution to me.


Please feel free to comment and make suggestions.


Tom


----------



## Kensmith48

Tom,

Everything looks great to me. I wish my speaker charts were that good. I'm also not sure about your sub though.

I wonder if someone could chime in with what an ideal ARC chart should look like for a subwoofer. I'm going to be doing some sub placements soon for the best position in the room and I'd like to know what to look for as far as what the chart should look like for a good placement.


TIA,

Ken


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/19210097
> 
> 
> Tom,
> 
> Everything looks great to me. I wish my speaker charts were that good. I'm also not sure about your sub though.
> 
> I wonder if someone could chime in with what an ideal ARC chart should look like for a subwoofer. I'm going to be doing some sub placements soon for the best position in the room and I'd like to know what to look for as far as what the chart should look like for a good placement.
> 
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Ken



As requested. Attached is my sub chart. BTW, your speakers,Tom, look very good. The sub is puzzling particularly the higher end wobbles. At 80 cutoff this disappears. It shouldn't affect the LFE for movies or does it?

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/19210097
> 
> 
> Tom,
> 
> Everything looks great to me. I wish my speaker charts were that good. I'm also not sure about your sub though.
> 
> I wonder if someone could chime in with what an ideal ARC chart should look like for a subwoofer. I'm going to be doing some sub placements soon for the best position in the room and I'd like to know what to look for as far as what the chart should look like for a good placement.
> 
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Ken





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19210240
> 
> 
> As requested. Attached is my sub chart. BTW, your speakers,Tom, look very good. The sub is puzzling particularly the higher end wobbles. At 80 cutoff this disappears. It shouldn't affect the LFE for movies or does it?
> 
> John



Thanks for looking guys.



John- the LFE sounds very good. I have only watched 'Kick Ass' since I did 3.0, and since it was a rental I had not watched it with 2.4, so I can't compare. I plan to watch the Dark Knight or Ironman, or some other film I'm more familiar, with to make a fairer comparison.


I noticed on your chart that it reads 'ARC with PBK'.

Do the PBK and ARC programs work together?

Do you run PBK before ARC (or visa/versa) or do the programs merge and run together?

Which Paradigm sub do you have? More than one?

The chart looks fantastic.


Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Texas steve

John, whats the deal on that mine does not have that! Or is that the PBK print out not the ARC print out?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19210746
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking guys.
> 
> John-
> 
> I noticed on your chart that it reads 'ARC with PBK'.
> 
> ks,
> 
> Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19210799
> 
> 
> John, whats the deal on that mine does not have that! Or is that the PBK print out not the ARC print out?



Steve,

This is what I named the file since I could then identify it later, I have a lot of measurements as you well know







Remember I did PBK first and then ARC so the sub looks a little diff compared to ARC alone.

John


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. Ran into some issues last night setting up the D2v but resolved the video drop outs but unfortunalty I'm still getting audio loss every say 8mins during a movie (BD). I'm using an Oppo BD-83 with latest firmware (not the beta) and my Anthem has the latest firmware installed by the distributer picked up last Friday. I've checked and triple checked settings and can't see anything that is causing the audio drop outs. Here are my calibration results for a 6 position calibration. My speakers are JTR 8HT's (front 3), slanted 8's for rears (5.1 setup) and 1 Submersive connected to a SVS AS-EQ. Please comment on the results and let me know if there are any issues which I will try and address doing another Calibration. As I'm using an Atom laptop I had to copy the files from the cd to a stick then to the laptop, and after running ARC I received this message:

*"The measurements were unable to be recalculated. Some low frequency errors remain in the measurements. Check that Recalibration.Data.CAL exists and is located in the application directory"*


I have since located that file on the cd and copied it into the directory. Does this mean i have to redo ARC? Any suggestions with the settings on either the Oppo or the Anthem?


Thanks for helping a newbie


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19210746
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking guys.
> 
> 
> 
> John- the LFE sounds very good. I have only watched 'Kick Ass' since I did 3.0, and since it was a rental I had not watched it with 2.4, so I can't compare. I plan to watch the Dark Knight or Ironman, or some other film I'm more familiar, with to make a fairer comparison.
> 
> 
> I noticed on your chart that it reads 'ARC with PBK'.
> 
> Do the PBK and ARC programs work together?
> 
> Do you run PBK before ARC (or visa/versa) or do the programs merge and run together?
> 
> Which Paradigm sub do you have? More than one?
> 
> The chart looks fantastic.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



Tom,

I used the PBK program to EQ my Sub 25 first. Then I ran ARC and the result was what you see. PBK is really ARC for the sub so they can work together. Generally Anthem recommends you do this only for multiple subs but I was experimenting with the beta v3.0 ARC. I sent my charts to Nick to compare.

What you can't see is the correction below 20 Hz on the chart. However, you can feel it so I know it is doing what they said it would. PBK is a program for Paradigm subs that does the same thing as ARC but only for the sub.

John


----------



## Texas steve

looks kind of messy!! can you post your ARC setting (gain etc).

uote=SimonNo10;19210885]Hi guys. Ran into some issues last night setting up the D2v but resolved the video drop outs but unfortunalty I'm still getting audio loss every say 8mins during a movie (BD). I'm using an Oppo BD-83 with latest firmware (not the beta) and my Anthem has the latest firmware installed by the distributer picked up last Friday. I've checked and triple checked settings and can't see anything that is causing the audio drop outs. Here are my calibration results for a 6 position calibration. My speakers are JTR 8HT's (front 3), slanted 8's for rears (5.1 setup) and 1 Submersive connected to a SVS AS-EQ. Please comment on the results and let me know if there are any issues which I will try and address doing another Calibration. As I'm using an Atom laptop I had to copy the files from the cd to a stick then to the laptop, and after running ARC I received this message:

*"The measurements were unable to be recalculated. Some low frequency errors remain in the measurements. Check that Recalibration.Data.CAL exists and is located in the application directory"*


I have since located that file on the cd and copied it into the directory. Does this mean i have to redo ARC? Any suggestions with the settings on either the Oppo or the Anthem?


Thanks for helping a newbie







[/quote]


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi Steve. As I'm completly new to this software you will have to bare with me. Is this what you referring to when you say Gain (refer to attachment).


When you say mess can you explain what's looking bad. When I look at it the calculated curve for most of the speakers is close to the target curve or am i missing something? Again I'm no expert when interpreting these graphs


----------



## Texas steve

Sorry, my dinner was ready, so I made a quick remark. The settings chart you attached is helpful, I was looking for what settings you/ARC choose. I see nothing there.


There seems to be a lot of things going on in what ARC found


Your left front has some issues at 300HZ and your right is almost the opposing with a bik bump and 90K. Are they toed in correctly? Equally from the side and back wall? Also the difference between your L and R surround are significant (in your charts there are two left and right surround measurements (one on one chart and one on the other) and they are significantly different especially the right . The right is almost perfect and the left has issues. Is there something interfering with the left?


You sub is going down as it approaches the 75HZ range. Are you sure you do not have the LF cutoff activated in your sub?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19211316
> 
> 
> Hi Steve. As I'm completely new to this software you will have to bare with me. Is this what you referring to when you say Gain (refer to attachment).
> 
> 
> When you say mess can you explain what's looking bad. When I look at it the calculated curve for most of the speakers is close to the target curve or am i missing something? Again I'm no expert when interpreting these graphs


----------



## SimonNo10

Hey Steve allot to digest here and I will do my best to explain. The left speaker is near an open space to the left of it is the hallway and I have french bi-folding doors which were open at the time of the calibration. The right front has a wall next to it with 2 accoustic panels on that wall. Both speakers are toed in to the main listening position. Regarding the rears the left surround is near the curtains with more space around it and the right surround is close to a back wall. Funny now that you mention it when the test tone went through the left surround i heard what can only be described as a vibration of something sounded tinny so I'm not sure if it was the speaker or something near it that was vibrating, which would explain the issues. As for the sub I'm not aware of any LF cutoff dial/switch on the back of the Seaton Submersive. It's a pretty simply amp config with just a gain nob on the back.


What I will do is take some pics of the room to better show you it's layout and speaker locations. Just have to recharge the batteries for the camera. Thanks for the input and I'm sure I have a long way to go with tweaking with the Anthem. Last night was the first opportunity I had to play as I had 2 20amp dedicated circuits installed plus a filter etc took almost the whole day for the 2 blokes to do the job which was fine.


Oh as for the difference in the charts I must have clicked on the chart and zoomed in as the values are different. I'm going to re-do the Cal as I've moved the speakers a little out from the back wall plus I've relocated some bass traps (foam) as I now have room to put them in the front corners after moving them forward a bit.


You will have to tolerate my newbiness with all this as I'm used to using Audyssey Pro and a NAD T-175 pre-pro and the Anthem is just a whole new experience. What i will be doing later on is getting Macca on this forum to come over and calibrate the system for me as he is now very familar with the Anthem.


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok performed another 6 position calibration and this time I removed the AS-EQ from the system and just used ARC.


So what do you think guys?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok performed another 6 position calibration and this time I removed the AS-EQ from the system and just used ARC.
> 
> 
> So what do you think guys?



The sub looks and should sound better now. You might want to experiment with raising you room gain somewhat. Bob usually recommends in the 2-2.5 range. Let your ears be the judge. BTW, how do things sound now.

John


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi jayray. I've given up on trying to fix an issue I'm having b/w my Sanyo Z4 projector and the Anthem. I have spend the last 2+hrs trying to get a stable picture and have tried every combination and every setting I can think of. I first thought it was the Oppo as during a movie (BD) the screen would turn off then loss of audio for about 3-5secs then it would come back. But this just got worst the longer I watched the movie so I gave up and went into the Anthems menu and started to tweak. For some reason HDMI output 1 does not work with my projector only Output 2. I can get the main menu up but the screen just keeps flashing on and off then goes magenta then back to normal and this continues until I exit the menu. Also holding down 7 on the remote is supposed to bring up the picture adjustment menu but I don't get it at all. I'm of the mind now that I have a buggy unit as I've exhausted all avenues. Everything is the same as when i was using my NAD T-175 then only thing that's changed is implementing the Anthem.


Any suggestions would be most welcomed. Firmware version is 2.1 and was installed by the distributer last Friday before I took delivery Friday night. Really pissed off that i just couldn't sit back and watch a movie this weekend. Running ARC worked fine no issues there.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19212520
> 
> 
> Hi jayray. I've given up on trying to fix an issue I'm having b/w my Sanyo Z4 projector and the Anthem. I have spend the last 2+hrs trying to get a stable picture and have tried every combination and every setting I can think of. I first thought it was the Oppo as during a movie (BD) the screen would turn off then loss of audio for about 3-5secs then it would come back. But this just got worst the longer I watched the movie so I gave up and went into the Anthems menu and started to tweak. For some reason HDMI output 1 does not work with my projector only Output 2. I can get the main menu up but the screen just keeps flashing on and off then goes magenta then back to normal and this continues until I exit the menu. Also holding down 7 on the remote is supposed to bring up the picture adjustment menu but I don't get it at all. I'm of the mind now that I have a buggy unit as I've exhausted all avenues. Everything is the same as when i was using my NAD T-175 then only thing that's changed is implementing the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions would be most welcomed. Firmware version is 2.1 and was installed by the distributer last Friday before I took delivery Friday night. Really pissed off that i just couldn't sit back and watch a movie this weekend. Running ARC worked fine no issues there.



Are you running 1080p/24 from the oppo into the Z4? If so, perhaps the cable you are using has trouble with this resolution. Try running something at 480p as this is the easiest resolution to run through HDMI. If you get a picture, this may a cable problem. What about reinstalling the firmware. sometimes this helps with this type of issue. Also try turning on the theatre in this sequence, pj, Anthem, oppo. Make sure you also contact Anthem on Monday, they are very helpful.

John


----------



## Texas steve

looks much better!!




























As John (Jayray - why is that John?) suggests try raising your gain. Bob has written some great input on this , just do a search in this forum











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19212115
> 
> 
> Ok performed another 6 position calibration and this time I removed the AS-EQ from the system and just used ARC.
> 
> 
> So what do you think guys?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19212682
> 
> 
> looks much better!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As John (Jayray - why is that John?) suggests try raising your gain. Bob has written some great input on this , just do a search in this forum



(Jayray - why is that John?)

It's based on a nickname from an ACE Trucking Co. comedy routine, many years ago. Perhaps
*Ontario john* would be better









John


----------



## runnerlk

Just got the Oppo, have a couple questions.

First of all I have the Oppo set to Source Direct.

For SACD, should i leave the ouput res at 480i? If not why??

Since my Panasonic PT-AE3000 can handle 1080p/24 I have the D2 set to that but how about that Oppo 24-60 conversion setting??


In gerneral, what are the best settings for the paring?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/19212726
> 
> 
> Just got the Oppo, have a couple questions.
> 
> First of all I have the Oppo set to Source Direct.
> 
> For SACD, should i leave the ouput res at 480i? If not why??
> 
> Since my Panasonic PT-AE3000 can handle 1080p/24 I have the D2 set to that but how about that Oppo 24-60 conversion setting??
> 
> 
> In gerneral, what are the best settings for the paring?



For BD, 1080p explicit is recommended. I don't use SACD and don't watch starndard dvd anymore sorry so I don't worry about upconversion.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/19212726
> 
> 
> Just got the Oppo, have a couple questions.
> 
> First of all I have the Oppo set to Source Direct.
> 
> For SACD, should i leave the ouput res at 480i? If not why??
> 
> Since my Panasonic PT-AE3000 can handle 1080p/24 I have the D2 set to that but how about that Oppo 24-60 conversion setting??
> 
> 
> In gerneral, what are the best settings for the paring?



If you are using HDMI for audio then you must use 720p or higher video output resolution when playing high bandwidth audio discs (Blu-Ray, DVD Audio, and SACD). HDMI audio is embedded in the video signal and can only use a set fraction of the video bandwidth. 480p and 480i video are fine for the traditional Dolby Digital and DTS tracks, but the high bandwidth tracks (TrueHD, DTS-HD MA, multi-channel LPCM) need 720p or higher.


Since the D2 does not decode DSD streams, you must also set the Oppo to output PCM when playing SACD discs. The Oppo will do the decode. There is a separate audio output setting in the Oppo for SACD playback.


While you are in there, check that you have the SACD disc priority set to play the multi-channel track for SACD disc that have both a multi-channel and stereo track.


In general, the video handling in the Oppo is so good I recommend you simply leave it set at explicit 1080p output for everything (rather than Source Direct with the D2 doing the work). The quality is excellent and set this way you can use some of the convenience features in the Oppo (e.g., Zoom) which are bypassed when you use Source Direct.


To continue to get /24 video from Blu-Ray discs, set 1080p/24 Auto in the Oppo. I recommend you do this even if you are NOT intending to send /24 to your display at the moment (or don't have a /24 capable display).


Now the Oppo also offers the ability to extract the /24 stream from a standard DVD. But this is fraught with difficulties. Due to the way SD-DVDs are authored, it is effectively impossible on some discs and problematic on many others, particularly older discs. My recommendation is that you leave DVD/24 OFF in the Oppo. However, if you have a /24 capable display and have set up the D2 to send /24 to the display as appropriate, then you can experiment with DVD/24. I suggest you only try this with newer, better quality SD-DVD transfers. At the first sign of stuttering or tearing of the video, just turn DVD/24 back OFF again and enjoy the "normal" video from the SD-DVD.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv

So what is the best way to handle a source if you just want to leave it un touched...


I seem to have problems with my PopCorn Hour running through my D2v - out to my 65" Panny plasma... It seems to want to constantly continue to handshake or has problems trying to lock on to certain movies. I am unsure what settings I should be having it set at in the D2v.


I don't have these issues with my other system that just switches and doesn't try to scale the video at all... The D2v doesn't have a adjustment that says - passthrough like other products I have had.


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19213082
> 
> 
> If you are using HDMI for audio then you must use 720p or higher video output resolution when playing high bandwidth audio discs (Blu-Ray, DVD Audio, and SACD). HDMI audio is embedded in the video signal and can only use a set fraction of the video bandwidth. 480p and 480i video are fine for the traditional Dolby Digital and DTS tracks, but the high bandwidth tracks (TrueHD, DTS-HD MA, multi-channel LPCM) need 720p or higher.
> 
> 
> Since the D2 does not decode DSD streams, you must also set the Oppo to output PCM when playing SACD discs. The Oppo will do the decode. There is a separate audio output setting in the Oppo for SACD playback.
> 
> 
> While you are in there, check that you have the SACD disc priority set to play the multi-channel track for SACD disc that have both a multi-channel and stereo track.
> 
> 
> In general, the video handling in the Oppo is so good I recommend you simply leave it set at explicit 1080p output for everything (rather than Source Direct with the D2 doing the work). The quality is excellent and set this way you can use some of the convenience features in the Oppo (e.g., Zoom) which are bypassed when you use Source Direct.
> 
> 
> To continue to get /24 video from Blu-Ray discs, set 1080p/24 Auto in the Oppo. I recommend you do this even if you are NOT intending to send /24 to your display at the moment (or don't have a /24 capable display).
> 
> 
> Now the Oppo also offers the ability to extract the /24 stream from a standard DVD. But this is fraught with difficulties. Due to the way SD-DVDs are authored, it is effectively impossible on some discs and problematic on many others, particularly older discs. My recommendation is that you leave DVD/24 OFF in the Oppo. However, if you have a /24 capable display and have set up the D2 to send /24 to the display as appropriate, then you can experiment with DVD/24. I suggest you only try this with newer, better quality SD-DVD transfers. At the first sign of stuttering or tearing of the video, just turn DVD/24 back OFF again and enjoy the "normal" video from the SD-DVD.
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob. If using multi channel outs from Oppo would you still choose PCM out or DSD processing in the Oppo ? Thanks John F


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19212520
> 
> 
> Hi jayray. I've given up on trying to fix an issue I'm having b/w my Sanyo Z4 projector and the Anthem. I have spend the last 2+hrs trying to get a stable picture and have tried every combination and every setting I can think of. I first thought it was the Oppo as during a movie (BD) the screen would turn off then loss of audio for about 3-5secs then it would come back. But this just got worst the longer I watched the movie so I gave up and went into the Anthems menu and started to tweak. For some reason HDMI output 1 does not work with my projector only Output 2. I can get the main menu up but the screen just keeps flashing on and off then goes magenta then back to normal and this continues until I exit the menu. Also holding down 7 on the remote is supposed to bring up the picture adjustment menu but I don't get it at all. I'm of the mind now that I have a buggy unit as I've exhausted all avenues. Everything is the same as when i was using my NAD T-175 then only thing that's changed is implementing the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions would be most welcomed. Firmware version is 2.1 and was installed by the distributer last Friday before I took delivery Friday night. Really pissed off that i just couldn't sit back and watch a movie this weekend. Running ARC worked fine no issues there.



1) If the firmware in your D2v is really V2.1 then that's your problem right there. The current firmware is V2.10. V2.1 is old and buggy. Press Select once on the remote and you will see the installed firmware version in the Front Panel display.


2) If you are not certain your dealer knew what he was doing when he installed the firmware, then your first step should probably be to re-install it yourself. You must Reload Factory Defaults before installing the firmware. (You can Save User and/or Installer Settings in the D2v and reload from them after the firmware install is complete.) You must also make sure that you have NO POWERED HDMI CONNECTIONS during the firmware install. Forgetting to do this can mean the HDMI stuff does not get programmed correctly. Please note that many recent HDMI source and display devices leave their HDMI sockets powered even when they are "Off". Since HDMI plugs and sockets are delicate, my recommendation is that you leave them attached and instead remove wall power from all of your Sources and Display prior to the firmware install. Only the Anthem and your computer should be plugged in. NOTE: This is only necessary during a firmware install, not during ARC setup.


3) I'm a little confused by your description of what's working and not working. What you are describing sounds like a marginal HDMI cable, so we need to eliminate that possibility. The D2v puts out "Deep Color" high res video if the display allows it, and that will put more demands on your HDMI cabling than might have been the case from your prior AVR. If you have anything in the cable path other than a direct cable to the display, that alone can be the cause of problems (due to this higher bandwidth). This includes wall plates, HDMI switches, or HDMI splitters.


4) It sounds like you are saying you are getting good video from HDMI 2 output but not from HDMI 1 output, except that you can't get the Video Source Adjust menu to appear on HDMI 2. That last is "normal". The on-screen graphic displays like Video Source Adjust are only present on HDMI 1. This is an important question, because if you are getting good, stable video from HDMI 2 that eliminates cabling problems, and source device problems and means we have to focus on HDMI 1. So it is crucial to be sure that you really do mean HDMI 2 is working (except for the graphic displays just mentioned), and that you were using the IDENTICAL cabling with HDMI 2 as you used when HDMI 1 was NOT working. If there is any doubt about this, we should retry HDMI 1 vs. HDMI 2 with identical cabling to the identical input in your display.


5) You can eliminate the possibility of any Source device problems by testing this stuff with the internally generated video in the D2v. Simply select a Source input that's not turned on and then check the D2v's Setup menu (an internally generated S-video source) and also the Patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" key -- remember, only on HDMI 1). If you can't get good, stable HDMI video when displaying those, then you know the problem is in the D2v, cabling, or display -- the source device is eliminated as a cause.


6) HDMI plugs are only friction fit and it takes only a slight shift of the plug in the socket to make for a bad connection. So when you test HDMI 1 again, be sure the plug is fully inserted straight into the socket and that it is not being tugged or pushed in any direction (as by the weight of the cable).


7) If you determine, using the D2v's built in video displays, that even with identical cabling properly plugged in, HDMI 1 is still not working while HDMI 2 is working, and a firmware re-install does not fix it, then give Anthem tech support a call. It may be as simple as they need you to open up the chassis and re-seat the HDMI output daughter board in its socket on the main video board.


8) But if you discover that with identical cabling HDMI 2 is also not working properly, then you should try a replacement cable -- a direct run to your display. Get a cable that is labeled as HDMI V1.3 for 1080p, "high speed", or "Category 2" (which all mean the same thing). That labeling simply means the cable design has been certified for the higher bandwidth video the D2v can put out.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19213156
> 
> 
> Hello Bob. If using multi channel outs from Oppo would you still choose PCM out or DSD processing in the Oppo ? Thanks John F



Use DSD and turn HDMI Audio OFF. If you do BOTH of these then the Oppo will send the DSD off the SACD disc direct to its DACs for conversion to analog. I.e., you skip the intermediate step of decoding to LPCM.

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19213082
> 
> 
> If you are using HDMI for audio then you must use 720p or higher video output resolution when playing high bandwidth audio discs (Blu-Ray, DVD Audio, and SACD). HDMI audio is embedded in the video signal and can only use a set fraction of the video bandwidth. 480p and 480i video are fine for the traditional Dolby Digital and DTS tracks, but the high bandwidth tracks (TrueHD, DTS-HD MA, multi-channel LPCM) need 720p or higher.
> 
> 
> Since the D2 does not decode DSD streams, you must also set the Oppo to output PCM when playing SACD discs. The Oppo will do the decode. There is a separate audio output setting in the Oppo for SACD playback.
> 
> 
> While you are in there, check that you have the SACD disc priority set to play the multi-channel track for SACD disc that have both a multi-channel and stereo track.
> 
> 
> In general, the video handling in the Oppo is so good I recommend you simply leave it set at explicit 1080p output for everything (rather than Source Direct with the D2 doing the work). The quality is excellent and set this way you can use some of the convenience features in the Oppo (e.g., Zoom) which are bypassed when you use Source Direct.
> 
> 
> To continue to get /24 video from Blu-Ray discs, set 1080p/24 Auto in the Oppo. I recommend you do this even if you are NOT intending to send /24 to your display at the moment (or don't have a /24 capable display).
> 
> 
> Now the Oppo also offers the ability to extract the /24 stream from a standard DVD. But this is fraught with difficulties. Due to the way SD-DVDs are authored, it is effectively impossible on some discs and problematic on many others, particularly older discs. My recommendation is that you leave DVD/24 OFF in the Oppo. However, if you have a /24 capable display and have set up the D2 to send /24 to the display as appropriate, then you can experiment with DVD/24. I suggest you only try this with newer, better quality SD-DVD transfers. At the first sign of stuttering or tearing of the video, just turn DVD/24 back OFF again and enjoy the "normal" video from the SD-DVD.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the advise. One question though and an observation:


If i prefer to listen to SACD in stereo can I leave the priority set to stereo as it is now?


Also, when I have the Oppo set to stereo and the D2v set to stereo, I am still getting the bass out of my fathom113 sub. Why is that? It is easy enouhg to fix obviously by shutting off the sub. But seems to indicate I have something setup wrong.


----------



## CycloneMike

Has anybody had any difficulty with IR output with the latest D2v firmware? One of my outputs seems to not be working after the last upgrade a couple of weeks ago.


I checked the menu and they are activated.


Reload the software and check?


Other suggestions?


Thanks,


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/19213226
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advise. One question though and an observation:
> 
> 
> If i prefer to listen to SACD in stereo can I leave the priority set to stereo as it is now?
> 
> 
> Also, when I have the Oppo set to stereo and the D2v set to stereo, I am still getting the bass out of my fathom113 sub. Why is that? It is easy enouhg to fix obviously by shutting off the sub. But seems to indicate I have something setup wrong.



Sure, if you prefer to listen to the Stereo track on your SACDs just set set the Oppo's SACD priority to Stereo. Also set Stereo Audio Mode in the D2v so that no surround sound is generated from that 2 channel input.


When you have 2 channel audio input, bass is steered from the LF/RF speakers to the sub according to the bass management you have set up. If you would prefer that your sub not be used when listening to 2 channel music, set up your Music configuration in ARC to exclude the subwoofer. ARC will set LF/RF to "Full Range" (no bass steering from them). If you play multi-channel audio into that configuration, bass for the Center and Surround channels will be steered to LF/RF according to the crossovers set for Center and the Surrounds. In addition, any LFE channel input will be steered to LF/RF for output. Any bass LF/RF are incapable of reproducing simply gets lost of course.


NOTE: If you already have ARC set up and want to experiment with a Music configuration that excludes your sub you can do that without re-Measuring. Open up your existing ARC file, go into the Targets window, clear the "Same As" check box for Music if it is set, put an "n" in the "cutoff" value for the Music subwoofer ("n" for "no speaker") and make sure the "Full Range" box is checked for Music LF/RF. Keep in mind that if you still have Center and Surround speakers in Music you may want to tweak their cutoff/crossover values as well to better match what LF/RF can do to support them for bass since the sub is no longer in the mix to do that. Accept these Targets changes, which will dismiss the Targets window, re-Calculate and re-Upload. Your Movie configuration will not be changed by this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/19213141
> 
> 
> So what is the best way to handle a source if you just want to leave it un touched...
> 
> 
> I seem to have problems with my PopCorn Hour running through my D2v - out to my 65" Panny plasma... It seems to want to constantly continue to handshake or has problems trying to lock on to certain movies. I am unsure what settings I should be having it set at in the D2v.
> 
> 
> I don't have these issues with my other system that just switches and doesn't try to scale the video at all... The D2v doesn't have a adjustment that says - passthrough like other products I have had.



Correct, there is no pass through for HDMI input.


The HDMI handshakes are driven by the Source device, in this case your PopCorn Hour. If you are getting a handshake each time you start different content or when going in and out of menus in the PopCorn Hour that is happening because the Source (not the D2v) is changing the video format that is being sent. So it has to re-handshake to satisfy copy protection.


Now WHY the PopCorn hour is having difficulty completing the handshake is a question worth exploring but first keep in mind that there are a couple things you can do to minimize or eliminate the handshakes altogether. First, set the PopCorn Hour to always output one fixed video format -- e.g., 1080p/60. It may or may not oblige on that. Some of the Tivo boxes for example insist on using a different resolution for their menus no matter what you set. But if you can get the box to output one resolution then it should not need to re-handshake all the time.


Second, consider cabling the PopCorn Hour using Component cables for video and optical cable for audio. No handshakes and identical quality for HD video and broadcast style movies (i.e, when there is no "lossless" audio such as TrueHD or DTS-HD MA).


OK, now back to the handshaking difficulty. The single most common reason for handshake problems is marginal HDMI cables. Keep in mind that the D2v puts out "Deep Color" high resolution video if the source and/or display allows that, and this can mean a cable that used to work no longer is able to handle that higher bandwidth. Also keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol driven by the source device. That means a problem on the cable to the display may cause handshake issues from the source. And since each source has its own idea of how to do handshaking, the problem may only show from some sources even though the same cabling is in use. The copy protection stuff in HDMI is finicky by design. It LIKES to say, "NO!"


Also, the source device has to do more complicated stuff when talking through an intermediate HDMI device (like the D2v). It has to query the TV THROUGH the D2v for example. The HDMI code in some sources simply doesn't do that very well -- thus lots of retries. There were even some older cable and satellite TV boxes which simply refused to try. As soon as they discovered they were not directly connected to a TV they just gave up.


There are some things you can do to "simplify" the handshake to give flakey HDMI code in a source a better chance of not getting confused. First, don't use "auto" settings. Set an explicit output resolution. Set an explicit output data format (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4). Do this BOTH in your Source and also in Setup > Video Output in the D2v. Again, the Source's attempts to handshake include the handshake between the D2v and the display so simplifying the output side of the D2v can help some flakey sources.


Also, set Setup > Source Setup > Auto Dig to OFF for all of your Source definitions in the D2v. Again this simplifies the handshake. And if you are using Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock with this Source try turning that OFF to see if *THAT* cures it's handshake headaches.


If you still have problems after taking these simple steps the next thing to do is to nail down if you have a cabling problem. First try setting the video output of both the D2v and the Source to no higher than 1080i. If 1080i works but 1080p does not then you almost certainly have marginal cabling, and again the problem could be the cable from the D2v to the display. If your cable runs are not direct, that is if you are using wall plates or an HDMI switch or splitter, then those should be high on your list of suspects.


Make sure your HDMI plugs are fully inserted straight into the socket with nothing tugging or pulling them in any direction (e.g., the weight of the cable). Even a slight shift of the plug in the socket can cause a marginal connection.


If in the end you find that most of your problems are happening at power up, keep in mind that it may help to change the order in which you power up your devices. The "best" order for most folks will be display first, then D2v, then select the Source for input in the D2v, then power the Source. This has to do with minimizing the chances that a device will discover the other end of the cable doesn't quite have its HDMI act together yet, and thus things get confused. This should not be necessary of course -- all sources should be smart enough to recover on the handshake -- but sometimes it is a useful "workaround".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/19213486
> 
> 
> Has anybody had any difficulty with IR output with the latest D2v firmware? One of my outputs seems to not be working after the last upgrade a couple of weeks ago.
> 
> 
> I checked the menu and they are activated.
> 
> 
> Reload the software and check?
> 
> 
> Other suggestions?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Mike



I trust you checked the wiring as well, right? It's easy enough to knock something loose when fiddling with RS-232 for the firmware install. Make sure the plug is still firmly inserted in the CORRECT socket.


If that's not it, Save your settings, Reload Factory Defaults, manually enter the minimum changes in Setup necessary to check the function of that IR output and see what you get. Remember that only IR input via the REAR IR jack is retransmitted to the IR Emitter output. (See Section 2 of the Manual.) If it is still kaput, give Anthem tech support a call.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19213694
> 
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Now WHY the PopCorn hour is having difficulty completing the handshake is a question worth exploring but first keep in mind that there are a couple things you can do to minimize or eliminate the handshakes altogether. *First, set the PopCorn Hour to always output one fixed video format -- e.g., 1080p/60*. It may or may not oblige on that. Some of the Tivo boxes for example insist on using a different resolution for their menus no matter what you set. But if you can get the box to output one resolution then it should not need to re-handshake all the time.
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> --Bob



I found this out the hard way using my 3-tuner MOXI DVR. I had set it up to respond to all resolutions from 480i to 1080p/60. The handshakes were brutal and caused the system to have an 8 - 10 second response whenever I switched channels(especially from HD video to music channels). It even would freeze audio and video from one of my favorite music channels from TWC(go figure!







)... The has been going on since January of this year when i got the MOXI. Multiple truck rolls by TWC to my house coudn't resolve the video/audio freeze problem. Neither did swapping out tuning cards or DVR's.


Now since I set it up to output only 1080i/60 about 4 weeks ago, all the above problems are gone. Channel tuning takes 3-4 seconds and the handshakes are GONE(!!!!). I then allow the 50v to take this to 1080p/60 into my 60" pio plasma. I notice no loss in video quality by allowing my MOXI to do the 480i/60 or 720p/60 conversion to 1080i/60. All is good in the Land of Dave.


----------



## Warpdrv

Thanks for the response Bob, I'm going to work out some of the solutions presented and see what I come up with - I do have deep color cabling here - all new just for that unit as it resides in the basement, so I needed a longer run cable - I will re-check the seating of the connectors. I have tried all the settings you suggested, *although* the D2v used to have frame lock in the output settings, I assume that it has been moved to the video editing adjustments portion/area.


Unfortunately switching to component is not an option for me - all my streaming is blurays over my network and most if not all are HD audio. This is the only unit I have problems with, through the Anthem, but if I hook it up directly to the TV I have no issues with any of this...


I also do not have issues such as this with my secondary unit which only switches HDMI and does not alter the signal or try to process the video at all... It would be nice if there was an option on the D2v to just switch from input to output.


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19213185
> 
> 
> Use DSD and turn HDMI Audio OFF. If you do BOTH of these then the Oppo will send the DSD off the SACD disc direct to its DACs for conversion to analog. I.e., you skip the intermediate step of decoding to LPCM.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you, Bob. John Fricano.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19214310
> 
> 
> I found this out the hard way using my 3-tuner MOXI DVR. I had set it up to respond to all resolutions from 480i to 1080p/60. The handshakes were brutal and caused the system to have an 8 - 10 second response whenever I switched channels(especially from HD video to music channels). It even would freeze audio and video from one of my favorite music channels from TWC(go figure!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )... The has been going on since January of this year when i got the MOXI. Multiple truck rolls by TWC to my house coudn't resolve the video/audio freeze problem. Neither did swapping out tuning cards or DVR's.
> 
> 
> Now since I set it up to output only 1080i/60 about 4 weeks ago, all the above problems are gone. Channel tuning takes 3-4 seconds and the handshakes are GONE(!!!!). I then allow the 50v to take this to 1080p/60 into my 60" pio plasma. I notice no loss in video quality by allowing my MOXI to do the 480i/60 or 720p/60 conversion to 1080i/60. All is good in the Land of Dave.




Thanks dmusoke, appreciate you posting on this - it helps to have examples - Im really trying not to take a straight 1080p signal and drop it down to 1080i and then back up to 1080p again, but I didn't mention that in my first post.


For TV I could easily have no problem with that, but just not such a great option in this case...


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/19213141
> 
> 
> So what is the best way to handle a source if you just want to leave it un touched...
> 
> 
> I seem to have problems with my PopCorn Hour running through my D2v - out to my 65" Panny plasma... It seems to want to constantly continue to handshake or has problems trying to lock on to certain movies. I am unsure what settings I should be having it set at in the D2v.
> 
> 
> I don't have these issues with my other system that just switches and doesn't try to scale the video at all... The D2v doesn't have a adjustment that says - passthrough like other products I have had.



I had similar problems with my Xtreamer (media streaming from ripped dvd and blu-rays) and I finally gave up on it. It never saw the D2v as a 1080p capable device. Color spaces issues and etc.


I could get a picture by forcing a color format setting in the video processing menu under Input - press and hold 7 to access.


I'm sure you've done this, but make sure you have the latest firmware on the Popcorn Hour.


The Xtreamer works great on my Pio AVR where it's connected to today.


Good luck


Ken


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/19214738
> 
> 
> I had similar problems with my Xtreamer (media streaming from ripped dvd and blu-rays) and I finally gave up on it. It never saw the D2v as a 1080p capable device. Color spaces issues and etc.
> 
> 
> I could get a picture by forcing a color format setting in the video processing menu under Input - press and hold 7 to access.
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've done this, but make sure you have the latest firmware on the Popcorn Hour.
> 
> 
> The Xtreamer works great on my Pio AVR where it's connected to today.
> 
> 
> Good luck
> 
> 
> Ken




thanks ken - this is not a 100% all the time thing - its hit and miss, and yes I have the latest firmware on the PCH, I even have access to the beta stuff which is settled in and running fine.... But honestly when I hook up the PCH to the TV I have none of these issues.... It just plays fine, so something on the D2v is part of the issue


Make me wonder from time to time if the D2v is just too fussy with different HDMI stuff... My $700 pioneer receiver is flawless and gives me absolutely no issues... don't get me wrong - I love the SQ from the D2v and ARC is awesome but the Video Processor and implementations is sketchy some times... Not the quality mind you - just the handshake and connection parts of it...


Also don't take it that I'm stating my $300 POS popcorn hour is the greatest and most bullet proof product on the market here either..


Oh and I know the PIA that HDMI has been over the years here.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/19214387
> 
> 
> Thanks dmusoke, appreciate you posting on this - it helps to have examples - Im really trying not to take a straight 1080p signal and drop it down to 1080i and then back up to 1080p again, but I didn't mention that in my first post.
> 
> 
> For TV I could easily have no problem with that, but just not such a great option in this case...



Warpdrv:


As a last resort, i would set the output resolution of the PCH to either 720p or 1080i, NOT both. Then have the D2v convert that to 1080p to your TV set. Make sure the AutoDig setting in the D2v is turned off(NA) for that source, if not all sources. I'm assuming you've tried to bypass the D2v and all works great when the PCH is directly connected to the TV set? Tried both HDMI 1-4 and HDMI 5-8 outputs from the D2v? Manually set the color spaces and resolutions instead of leaving them to the Auto settings? FrameLock = OFF?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/19214813
> 
> 
> thanks ken - this is not a 100% all the time thing - its hit and miss, and yes I have the latest firmware on the PCH, I even have access to the beta stuff which is settled in and running fine.... But honestly when I hook up the PCH to the TV I have none of these issues.... It just plays fine, so something on the D2v is part of the issue
> 
> 
> Make me wonder from time to time if the D2v is just too fussy with different HDMI stuff... My $700 pioneer receiver is flawless and gives me absolutely no issues... don't get me wrong - I love the SQ from the D2v and ARC is awesome but the Video Processor and implementations is sketchy some times... Not the quality mind you - just the handshake and connection parts of it...
> 
> 
> Also don't take it that I'm stating my $300 POS popcorn hour is the greatest and most bullet proof product on the market here either..
> 
> 
> Oh and I know the PIA that HDMI has been over the years here.



Somewhat OT but !


If you are using the latest PCH or Beta 1 software you should know or be aware they introduced some bad HDMI handshake problems.

The best way around them and has worked flawlessly for me with my D2 is to *set the video in the PCH to 1080i/60 not AUTO or 1080p/60.

No loss in picture quality.*


here is some further info
PCH Synch problems


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi Bob. First chance I've had to respond work is crazy in the mornings. To answer some of your questions.


1. I've had confirmation from the audio place that I purchased the unit from that Anthem did in fact install the latest firmware and this was verified by our local distributer being version 2.10. Will confirm tonight.


2. The cable in question is a Kordz 12m about 4 years old and was deemed to be a very good cable. It's running directly from the projector to the Anthem so no HDMI wall plates etc. It's the only cable I'm using b/w the projector and the Anthem. Works on HDMI Output 2 but I get nothing on HDMI Output 1. I tried 3 times switching b/w them making sure that both units were turned off before doing so.


3. I tried every resolution in the settings on the D2v and nothing was stable. Does the Scaler option have any effect on the HDMI that's plugged in? If I'm using Output 2 should I select HDMI 2 in the scaler option?


4. Regarding the type of HDMI cable the Sanyo Z4 is a 720p projector and doesn't support the latest and greatest resolutions and 24p/Deep Colour so it's a fairly simple device. I chose 1280x768 (60p) and (50p) and both have the same issues. I even tried a much lower resolution and received the same results on HDMI Output 2. As mentioned I get nothing on Output 1 just a blue screen and on the display it reads "no video signal". also get "No audio Signal" either when I've connected the Oppo to either HDMI 2 or 2 in the input section. I have tried 3 different HDMI cables b/w the Oppo and the D2v and get the same result. When i do get a picture for about 5-6mins the audio drops out and the screen flashes then it all comes back but goes away again, and this happens with the media I've tried being Blu-Rays and .avi's from a USB stick. I haven't tried a dvd as i was getting frustrated at this stage and gave up.


Also of note I tried all the video settings on the Oppo from Source Direct through to selecting 720p as that's the native resolution of my projector and still had the issues. Wont go into every setting but tried many different combinations and nothing was stable.


Thanks for all the replies guys really appreciate the time and effort. My brother who also owns the D2v is coming around tonight and is bringing over a 10m HDMI cable which is a very good one that supports the latest spec. Hopefully it's a simple fix and i can enjoy my new toy.


Apologies Bob if I have missed something as I'm at work and rushing this post


Cheers


Simon


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok it's a faulty HDMI board. Component works fine no problem and I heard a click when the signal locked on, don't get that with HDMI on either outputs and saw the Anthem welcome screen for the fist time using component.Tried both HDMI outputs on my Sony 1080p LCD Tv and the same thing happens like the projector. My brother came over to assist in the testing as he also owns the D2v so we compared settings and he saw first hand what was happening. We also reinstalled 2.10 which went smoothly and also my brother brought over 2 new HDMI cables and got the same result as the one I'm using so it ruled out the cable as being the problem.


So looks like it's getting packed up and sent off for a repair and or replacement. Personally I want a replacement as who knows what other issues it could have. Makes me question Anthem's quality control and testing before they ship their units out. Not very happy at the moment.


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/19214813
> 
> 
> thanks ken - this is not a 100% all the time thing - its hit and miss, and yes I have the latest firmware on the PCH, I even have access to the beta stuff which is settled in and running fine.... But honestly when I hook up the PCH to the TV I have none of these issues.... It just plays fine, so something on the D2v is part of the issue
> 
> 
> Make me wonder from time to time if the D2v is just too fussy with different HDMI stuff... My $700 pioneer receiver is flawless and gives me absolutely no issues... don't get me wrong - I love the SQ from the D2v and ARC is awesome but the Video Processor and implementations is sketchy some times... Not the quality mind you - just the handshake and connection parts of it...
> 
> 
> Also don't take it that I'm stating my $300 POS popcorn hour is the greatest and most bullet proof product on the market here either..
> 
> 
> Oh and I know the PIA that HDMI has been over the years here.



Agree, I think the D2v is is too strict with it's HDMI implementation. My Pio AVR connects fine with anything I've ever connected to it.


Sounds like there's a possible PCH issue and solution. Hopefully it solves your problem.


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19216130
> 
> 
> So looks like it's getting packed up and sent off for a repair and or replacement. Personally I want a replacement as who knows what other issues it could have. Makes me question Anthem's quality control and testing before they ship their units out. Not very happy at the moment.



You should be able to get a replacement. I had an issue on my brand new D2v a year ago where it would totally garble the setup menu and was given the choice by Anthem to repair or replace so opted for replacement. The only problem was at the time the units were still in short supply so it took close to a month the get the replacement but luckily my original D2v was still functional minus the setup menu.


----------



## Warpdrv

Thanks guys.... I will be looking into this later today or tomorrow when I have some time... I'll try all suggestions - roll back PCH if I have to.


FWIW - where is the frame lock setting in the D2v now with 2.10 ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/19216684
> 
> 
> Thanks guys.... I will be looking into this later today or tomorrow when I have some time... I'll try all suggestions - roll back PCH if I have to.
> 
> 
> FWIW - where is the frame lock setting in the D2v now with 2.10 ?



Video Source Adjust > Output > Frame Lock


Press and hold the "7" button to get in the Video Source Adjust menu. Note that since the setting is in Video Source Adjust, it is separate for each of your Sources, so view the Source you are interested in before going into the menu.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19216130
> 
> 
> Ok it's a faulty HDMI board. Component works fine no problem and I heard a click when the signal locked on, don't get that with HDMI on either outputs and saw the Anthem welcome screen for the fist time using component.Tried both HDMI outputs on my Sony 1080p LCD Tv and the same thing happens like the projector. My brother came over to assist in the testing as he also owns the D2v so we compared settings and he saw first hand what was happening. We also reinstalled 2.10 which went smoothly and also my brother brought over 2 new HDMI cables and got the same result as the one I'm using so it ruled out the cable as being the problem.
> 
> 
> So looks like it's getting packed up and sent off for a repair and or replacement. Personally I want a replacement as who knows what other issues it could have. Makes me question Anthem's quality control and testing before they ship their units out. Not very happy at the moment.



Give Anthem tech support a call. There may be a simple fix which involves opening up the lid and reseating the HDMI output daughter board into the main video board. It may have shifted in shipment. If that's not it, they and your dealer will almost certainly offer to swap out the unit.

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk

I am using Oppo BD-83Se with my D2v. When I select 2 channel output I am getting bass out of my sub. Why is that? Speaker setting size??


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/19217159
> 
> 
> I am using Oppo BD-83Se with my D2v. When I select 2 channel output I am getting bass out of my sub. Why is that? Speaker setting size??



Is this what you were looking for (from just a few posts back):

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19213580 


--Bob


----------



## Stevetd

I installed my D2v over the weekend. HDMI inputs 1-4 are inoperative. I reloaded firmware twice with no luck. I guess that I'll call support next but, I thought that I would post here first to see if there was anything that I might be able do to fix it. I'm extremely time-challenged so this is a real bummer.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/19217615
> 
> 
> I installed my D2v over the weekend. HDMI inputs 1-4 are inoperative. I reloaded firmware twice with no luck. I guess that I'll call support next but, I thought that I would post here first to see if there was anything that I might be able do to fix it. I'm extremely time-challenged so this is a real bummer.



Make sure when you install the firmware that you have no powered HDMI connections -- either Sources or Display. Be aware that many HDMI devices keep their HDMI sockets powered even when they are "off". Since HDMI plugs/sockets are sensitive, I recommend that instead of disconnecting the HDMI you pull wall power from everything except the Anthem and your computer. Note that this is only necessary for a firmware install -- not when doing an ARC setup for example.


Failure to do this will mean the HDMI stuff doesn't get programmed correctly.


If that doesn't fix it for you then you likely do need the video board swapped out. As I understand it, HDMI inputs 1-4 use one chip and HDMI inputs 5-8 use another. So a problem across inputs 1-4 would point to a failure of that chip or the circuit connecting it.


Give Anthem tech support a call and they will do what's necessary.


It's also possible you just need to have the HDMI input daughter board reseated into the video board. Tech support can walk you through that if it seems appropriate.


[You also need to Reload Factory Defaults prior to a firmware install, but that's unlikely related to your problem.]

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19217264
> 
> 
> Is this what you were looking for (from just a few posts back):
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19213580
> 
> 
> --Bob



Yep Bob that's what I needed. Sorry for the repost and thanks for the info again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/19217816
> 
> 
> Yep Bob that's what I needed. Sorry for the repost and thanks for the info again.



No problem. It's easy to miss things when we get a flurry of posts on multiple topics.

--Bob


----------



## jb5200

I have a D1 w/ARC and was wondering if there was a way to use the 2-Ch. Balanced source and have my sub included. I like the 2 Ch. Balanced b/c the sound is so much cleaner and crisper but that takes out the sub. I have Paradigm S8v2 speakers and even though they are OK speakers for bass impact they don't add the weight and fill I need for the size of my room.


Thanks,


Jeff


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/19218538
> 
> 
> I have a D1 w/ARC and was wondering if there was a way to use the 2-Ch. Balanced source and have my sub included. I like the 2 Ch. Balanced b/c the sound is so much cleaner and crisper but that takes out the sub. I have Paradigm S8v2 speakers and even though they are OK speakers for bass impact they don't add the weight and fill I need for the size of my room.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jeff



In Setup > Source Setup, set the 2-Ch input to ANALOG-DSP so that the analog input is digitized. (Be sure to go into the ADC portion of Setup and raise the default sampling rate for digitizing stereo analog sources to 96KHz as well.) ARC will then be able to process it, including bass steering from LF/RF to sub if that's the way you have ARC configured.


ARC does its processing in the digital domain, so if you use ANALOG-DIRECT for any analog input, ARC can't do its thing. Nor can the older, pre-ARC form of bass management. Basically with ANALOG-DIRECT all you have is Main Volume control. No other audio processing.

--Bob


----------



## A Roser




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok it's a faulty HDMI board. Component works fine no problem and I heard a click when the signal locked on, don't get that with HDMI on either outputs and saw the Anthem welcome screen for the fist time using component.Tried both HDMI outputs on my Sony 1080p LCD Tv and the same thing happens like the projector. My brother came over to assist in the testing as he also owns the D2v so we compared settings and he saw first hand what was happening. We also reinstalled 2.10 which went smoothly and also my brother brought over 2 new HDMI cables and got the same result as the one I'm using so it ruled out the cable as being the problem.
> 
> 
> So looks like it's getting packed up and sent off for a repair and or replacement. Personally I want a replacement as who knows what other issues it could have. Makes me question Anthem's quality control and testing before they ship their units out. Not very happy at the moment.



Before you pack your unit off to Anthem, please try and change the bit depth setting in the video setup menu. This feature has been recently introduce and reading the other responses it doesn't seem to have been suggested. If you go to the video menu and select 'output' this is where you can change the color bit depth from 12 bit to 10 or 8, I would strongly suggest you try 8 bit. Your Sanyo will be more comfortable with this setting and so will you 12ft HDMI cable.


Regards


Alan


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^The problem is the video is working from HDMI 2 but not from HDMI 1 to that display (as I understand it). Output Bit Depth affects both outputs, so it seems an unlikely cause. Nevertheless it does not hurt to try it.

--Bob


----------



## jb5200

Thanks Bob,


So if I have balanced out of my PS Audio DL III DAC to the 2 Ch. Bal. in on the D1 and I choose the 2 Ch. Bal as a source I can't integrate the sub? I switched the input from Analog Direct to the Analog DSP in the Source setup menu but the sound is really, really fuzzy like something isn't connected right. Analog DSP is good but the clarity and preciseness (is that a word?) is duller, darker, but fuller and the weight I want.


I really want the Analog Direct definition and clarity sound with the sub included somehow, I just didn't know if it could be done or if I was doing something wrong. How do analog preamps do it?


Jeff


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/19219164
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> So if I have balanced out of my PS Audio DL III DAC to the 2 Ch. Bal. in on the D1 and I choose the 2 Ch. Bal as a source I can't integrate the sub? I switched the input from Analog Direct to the Analog DSP in the Source setup menu but the sound is really, really fuzzy like something isn't connected right. Analog DSP is good but the clarity and preciseness (is that a word?) is duller, darker, but fuller and the weight I want.
> 
> 
> I really want the Analog Direct definition and clarity sound with the sub included somehow, I just didn't know if it could be done or if I was doing something wrong. How do analog preamps do it?
> 
> 
> Jeff



Perhaps he could set up his sub/speakers so that the sub is in line with the his speakers?.. run his left front and right front pos/neg speaker lines from his amp to his sub via a pass through and then to his speakers. And then set arc accordingly - large L/R front speakers ??


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/19219164
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> So if I have balanced out of my PS Audio DL III DAC to the 2 Ch. Bal. in on the D1 and I choose the 2 Ch. Bal as a source I can't integrate the sub? I switched the input from Analog Direct to the Analog DSP in the Source setup menu but the sound is really, really fuzzy like something isn't connected right. Analog DSP is good but the clarity and preciseness (is that a word?) is duller, darker, but fuller and the weight I want.
> 
> 
> I really want the Analog Direct definition and clarity sound with the sub included somehow, I just didn't know if it could be done or if I was doing something wrong. How do analog preamps do it?
> 
> 
> Jeff



this sounds like something isn't right. I am using 2 ch with sub and it sounds fantastic. I compared it with Analog direct and with ARC, even my wife noticed the diff so don't be too quick to give up on AnalogDSP, it really is very good. Without ARC, analog direct will have to do it's work without EQ freq, and that is a big loss.

John


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/19219164
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> So if I have balanced out of my PS Audio DL III DAC to the 2 Ch. Bal. in on the D1 and I choose the 2 Ch. Bal as a source I can't integrate the sub? I switched the input from Analog Direct to the Analog DSP in the Source setup menu but the sound is really, really fuzzy like something isn't connected right. Analog DSP is good but the clarity and preciseness (is that a word?) is duller, darker, but fuller and the weight I want.
> 
> 
> I really want the Analog Direct definition and clarity sound with the sub included somehow, I just didn't know if it could be done or if I was doing something wrong. How do analog preamps do it?
> 
> 
> Jeff



Jeff, perhaps a fellow Wisconsite can try to lend a hand here...make sure to check your Input level for the DAC source on the D2, it sounds very similar to a problem I had with my old Meridian CD player and then initially with my new PS Audio PWD DAC when using the Balanced outs from them to the D2V. The input level had to be toned way down, as it was muddling the sound somethin fierce. The 2-channel input on the D2(v) is very sensitive to proper levels, also many balanced outputs on many CD players/DAC sources seem to have their own gain prior to output. Actually, I suspect it's more the sources that have the issue, but...


In any case, check the Input level menu for the 2-channel input on your D2, move it up or down as needed until you get the best, fullest sound with no clipping. Rest assured I have the PS Audio PWD running exactly like your DL III, into the 2-channel balanced input on the D2V, using AnalogDSP so that ARC can blend in my Sub for 2-channel, and it sounds amazing.


Hope that helps,

Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> 
> So if I have balanced out of my PS Audio DL III DAC to the 2 Ch. Bal. in on the D1 and I choose the 2 Ch. Bal as a source I can't integrate the sub? I switched the input from Analog Direct to the Analog DSP in the Source setup menu but the sound is really, really fuzzy like something isn't connected right. Analog DSP is good but the clarity and preciseness (is that a word?) is duller, darker, but fuller and the weight I want.
> 
> 
> I really want the Analog Direct definition and clarity sound with the sub included somehow, I just didn't know if it could be done or if I was doing something wrong. How do analog preamps do it?
> 
> 
> Jeff



If ANALOG-DSP does not sound superb, then something is screwed up. Check the input levels as suggested. Also check your ARC setup. If you've been fiddling about in Setup since you did your ARC run you may have messed up some settings it Uploaded. Also make sure Room EQ is ON for the 2-CH Source So that ARC is active for it.


Remember you can just re-Upload your ARC solution if you are not sure.


Check the 2-CH Source as well for whether it is using the correct ARC bass management setup, Movie or Music.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> If you go to the video menu and select 'output' this is where you can change the color bit depth from 12 bit to 10 or 8, I would strongly suggest you try 8 bit. Your Sanyo will be more comfortable with this setting and so will you 12ft HDMI cable.



I tried all the bit rates nothing worked. It's a faulty HDMI board for sure as I get nothing through HDMI Output 1 but component works perfectly and as mentioned I heard a lock on click when the video was established. It's a DOA and the place I purchased it from is doing their best to arrange a replacement unit.



> Quote:
> The problem is the video is working from HDMI 2 but not from HDMI 1 to that display



Well personally I wouldn't call a flashing screen and constant video drops outs working







but at least something was happening through Output 2 but was unusable and was even worst when i connect it to my Sony 32" LCD TV. Thanks for all the suggestions.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well that's entirely different. I could have sworn you said earlier the HDMI 2 output video was in good shape. Anyway it sounds like you've got the next step in hand.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Hey Bob this is what I posted earlier:



> Quote:
> For some reason HDMI output 1 does not work with my projector only Output 2. I can get the main menu up but the screen just keeps flashing on and off then goes magenta then back to normal and this continues until I exit the menu



So nothing on Output 1 but something on Output 2 but very unstable. I have heard back from my supplier who contacted the Aussie distributer and the next lot of units wont be arriving until the 3rd week of Oct. So a bit of a wait and in the mean time I will use component and hope that the HDMI audio inputs works otherwise will go back to using optical.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OK I read that as saying the flashing was on HDMI1 and HDMI2 worked, but no matter.


Since BOTH outputs are giving you grief, that makes this a different problem.


Try this:


In Setup > Video Output, set the Data Format to YCbCr 4:4:4 (not Auto). Set the output resolution to 720x480p (or the 576p equivalent if TV is PAL where you are). Set the bit depth to 8 bit. Try this with both choices of HDMI Synch, and see if you can get the Setup menu to display. These are the simplest settings for HDMI to handle.


If they work, then that suggests a cabling problem is screwing up the higher resolution output. If they don't work then that says the D2v output is faulty. Since both outputs are failing, you should talk to tech support about opening up the chassis to reseat the HDMI output daughter board.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

It can't be the cable mate as we ruled that out last night by connecting 2 new HDMI cables to my LCD 1080p TV and I got the same problems on both Outputs. Ouput one nothing and Output 2 flashing menu.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19220946
> 
> 
> It can't be the cable mate as we ruled that out last night by connecting 2 new HDMI cables to my LCD 1080p TV and I got the same problems on both Outputs. Ouput one nothing and Output 2 flashing menu.



I had the exact same issue on my unit - one of the first ones delivered. Anthem sent me a new HDMI daughter board to try first - plug and play - if you can add a memory/video/etc card to a PC you can swap the HDMI card in the D2V. You might want to try this in the interim to see if it solves your problem. Anthem sent my card next day delivery.


In the end I needed a complete unit swap, but you have nothing to lose in the meantime........


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19220946
> 
> 
> It can't be the cable mate as we ruled that out last night by connecting 2 new HDMI cables to my LCD 1080p TV and I got the same problems on both Outputs. Ouput one nothing and Output 2 flashing menu.



If you still have an HDMI hookup in place, I still suggest you try the quick test at 480p (as described above) because IF IT WORKS it will be very revealing. Basically it would mean the HDMI board is functioning, but the connection is marginal. A marginal connection does not necessarily mean a faulty cable. It could be a bad socket. Don't forget to try both HDMI Sync settings at 480p.


Speaking of that, another simple thing you can do while waiting for Anthem is to get a flashlight and take a careful look at the HDMI sockets and plug ends at both ends of the cable (Anthem and display) looking for any sign of bent pins.


If the 480p test works, the next step would be to connect that same HDMI cable from the display directly to an HDMI source device and see if you can get good HDMI 1080p into the display that way. If that works, that's pretty good evidence the problem is not in the display's socket. Again, all of this is just trying to isolate the problem.


And I still think you should talk to tech support about opening up the lid and reseating that HDMI output board, "just in case". We've had at least 6 reports here of HDMI output failures that were fixed by that simple step. It's not a hard thing to do, but you do have to take precautions to make sure you don't zap the electronics with static electricity from your body.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks for the replies. I tried all resolutions when the issue first came up. The fact that as mentioned it wouldn't work with my fairly new Sony LCD tv using both outputs suggest a problem with the Anthem. We used 2 brand new never used HDMI cables that we tested first on the tv. Last night I hook up the projector via component and it works using comp 1, didn't try comp2. Everything seemed stable until I turned on the Oppo plugged into HDMI input 1, put a movie on and it lasted approx 8mins before I lost video and audio. Also at start up I don't see the Oppo menu just a blue screen. Can only get back a picture if I go into anthem menu and it resyncs that gets the movie pic back but nothing I've tried gives me the Oppo menu. I have to play a movie just so I can get into the Oppo setup and I've tried 720p and source direct neither were stable

. I tried all bit rates 8,10,12 nothing changed. Tried all resolutions nothing fixed it.


Hey if Anthem want to send me a new board to Australia I'm all for it, and walking me through reseating the HDMI board. I'm still wanting and will only accept a new unit and they can have this one back as it was missing also a screw on the top back right.


You have understand this had been my dream processor every since the release of the D2 and after laying down $8000+ on the D2v, to he honest the last thing I want to do is open it up and remove boards. Went through enough with my previous processor being the NAD T-175 and took over 3 months to rectify, and ended up being a faulty audio card.


Again if Anthem want to go through this reseating thing I will do it just to rule it out.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I certainly understand the frustration. A unit swap out probably IS the right answer. It's just that the board reseating may get you going faster. Anyway, this is definitely beyond anything we can help you fix here. The fix has to come from Anthem tech support / your dealer.


Hang in there. It IS worth the effort!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem's CEDIA press release for their Receiver products is now up on the web site of their PR company:

http://www.castercomm.com/prView.cfm?cid=111&id=442 


I don't see any new info in that release.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> certainly understand the frustration. A unit swap out probably IS the right answer. It's just that the board reseating may get you going faster. Anyway, this is definitely beyond anything we can help you fix here. The fix has to come from Anthem tech support / your dealer.
> 
> 
> Hang in there. It IS worth the effort!



Thanks Bob. Just to cover all the bases tell me what the settings should be according to the equipment in use:


Display: Sanyo Z4 Projector


Player: Oppo BD-83 (modded with region chip)


Processor: Anthem D2v


So basically going by the above what settings would you normally suggest in the Anthem under normal operating conditions? Just want to rule out any user errors







.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19225076
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Just to cover all the bases tell me what the settings should be according to the equipment in use:
> 
> 
> Display: Sanyo Z4 Projector
> 
> 
> Player: Oppo BD-83 (modded with region chip)
> 
> 
> Processor: Anthem D2v
> 
> 
> So basically going by the above what settings would you normally suggest in the Anthem under normal operating conditions? Just want to rule out any user errors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



For your problem as it stands now, you should of course not be using any source to test. Until you can get stable HDMI with the internally generated video there's no point in testing with a Source.


That said for the 83 what I recommend for an HDMI connection is explicit 1080p, YCbCr 4:2:2, 30-bit (Dithered), TV System Multi, 1080p/24 Auto, DVD/24 OFF, Secondary Audio OFF, HDMI Audio either Bitstream or LPCM (there are reasons to use both in different circumstances), SACD Audio PCM, HDCD Decoding ON, Dynamic Range Control OFF. I do not recommend Component video from the 83 (except of course in a situation like yours where HDMI is broken) as Component video bypasses the video processor in the 83.


For the D2v the input video levels in Video Source Adjust for the Oppo Source should be at factory default. The Video Output settings depend upon what works best with your projector. For a 1080p projector like yours with an HDMI input the normal starting point would be Data YCbCr 4:4:4, Color Space HDTV, Sync Normal, and of course 1080p/60 output. Using 1080p/24 to the display should not be tried until you are sure the "normal" 1080p/60 stuff is working correctly. Of course all of the above assumes the HDMI in your D2v is working properly.


I don't know enough about the Sanyo to rattle off the right settings inside it. Once you get stable HDMI you will need to check with a calibration disc to make sure the settings in the projector are correct. I can tell you that with the recommended settings both the Oppo and the D2v put out "correct" HDMI video, so any errors shown by the calibration disc would point to an incorrect setting in the projector.


Check the post link on "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" found in the first post of this thread for some basic guidance on that.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Hey Bob. First off the Sanyo Z4 is not a HD projector, it's native resolution is 1280x720p. Also I'm currently using component b/w the projector and the Anthem for video only (obviously) so using HDMI only for the Audio from the Oppo should be stable unless both the HDMI inputs and Outputs on the D2v are all connected to the same board?


As I tested last night this wasn't the case as I was getting video and audio drop outs while watching a BD. The Setup menu is stable on the Anthem but cannot get the main menu on the Oppo until I start the movie. When I press stop I get a blue screen and can only view the setup menu on the Anthem not the Oppo.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19225564
> 
> 
> Hey Bob. First off the Sanyo Z4 is not a HD projector, it's native resolution is 1280x720p.



How is that not HD?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> How is that not HD?



As in not Full HD 1920x1080p. Sorry thought that was obvious


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19225564
> 
> 
> Hey Bob. First off the Sanyo Z4 is not a HD projector, it's native resolution is 1280x720p. Also I'm currently using component b/w the projector and the Anthem for video only (obviously) so using HDMI only for the Audio from the Oppo should be stable unless both the HDMI inputs and Outputs on the D2v are all connected to the same board?
> 
> 
> As I tested last night this wasn't the case as I was getting video and audio drop outs while watching a BD. The Setup menu is stable on the Anthem but cannot get the main menu on the Oppo until I start the movie. When I press stop I get a blue screen and can only view the setup menu on the Anthem not the Oppo.



OK, then it will likely be best to use 720p output to the projector (i.e., set the D2v to match the native resolution of the projector). To determine if that's REALLY the best output resolution to send to it you need to check with a calibration disc, as some 720p projectors are non-intuitive and handle a 1080i or 1080p input better than 720p.


HDMI Audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of HDMI Video. That means you've got a video signal that has to be understood and separated to get the audio part out of it in the D2v.


And that means the HDMI copy protection stuff comes into play even though you aren't using the HDMI outputs. Since HDMI is an end to end protocol, if the HDMI output portion of the D2v is broken it may not be responding properly to the HDCP copy protection protocol (i.e., to indicate there is nothing actually connected to that output) and so the Oppo is forced to mute its output, which means you lose both audio and video.


It is also possible that the Oppo is trying to send a signal that can't be sent over Component because it still thinks you are using HDMI. So the Oppo mutes its Component output.


In the Oppo, setting the Primary Output to Component will prevent this, but it depends on just what might be going wrong when the Oppo tries to set up copy protection with the D2v for the HDMI audio. Again if the D2v HDMI hardware is broken, all bets are off on using HDMI for anything.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> It is also possible that the Oppo is trying to send a signal that can't be sent over Component because it still thinks you are using HDMI. So the Oppo mutes its Component output.



Ok sort of understanding your thinking here. So basically using HDMI from Oppo to D2v it's sending both Video and Audio to the Anthem and the Anthem is grabing the video section and sending that via component to the projector. It's in that processing that something is amiss and this CP could also be causing the drop outs. So by going component from Oppo and then also Optical for the audio that will bypass using HDMI at all and it should work?



> Quote:
> In the Oppo, setting the Primary Output to Component will prevent this, but it depends on just what might be going wrong when the Oppo tries to set up copy protection with the D2v for the HDMI audio. Again if the D2v HDMI hardware is broken, all bets are off on using HDMI for anything.



Yep you right about the hardware being broken. I guess I could just go back to using optical for the time being and forget the HD audio for now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sure, Component video and Optical audio to the D2v and then Component video to your display will eliminate HDMI issues in the D2v.


But before you give up on HDMI Audio from the Oppo just yet, be sure to try changing Setup > Video Setup > Primary Output to Component in the Oppo which is necessary to make sure it only tries to use video signals that Component can carry, so that it does not have to mute its Component output.


Actually, if you can't get the HDMI Audio to work for now you might also want to try hooking up the multi-channel analog from the Oppo to the D2v which will mean you can still get the high bit rate audio tracks from Blu-Ray discs for example. (The Optical audio can't carry those -- no copy protection -- and will automatically use only the compatibility, lossy audio on disc for just such purposes.)


As for what's going wrong, it's not that the D2v is using the HDMI video from the Oppo, it's that the Oppo has to mute ALL of its video output if it finds there is an HDMI connection in place that doesn't satisfy copy protection. And the HDMI audio you want to use causes it to try to establish copy protection. If the D2v HDMI hardware is broken, that may fail. Again, it's either that or the issue with not having Primary Outupt set to Component in the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks Bob. Yep didn't think of using the analog's been along time since I've gone that route. Have to dig up some from my cable storage box I should have enough. Thanks again for the input and advice.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19226063
> 
> 
> ...... So basically using HDMI from Oppo to D2v it's sending both Video and Audio to the Anthem and the Anthem is grabing the video section and sending that via component to the projector. .....



Bob, correct me if I'm wrong but I believe connections in this sequence will definitely not work because of copy protection issues. The reverse will, however.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Bob, correct me if I'm wrong but I believe connections in this sequence will definitely not work because of copy protection issues. The reverse will, however.
> 
> 
> Ben



Yes. See my reply. He misunderstood what I was saying.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello


Is it possible to change the OSD colour on the D2v from white to something more stiking out?


Thank you


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> Is it possible to change the OSD colour on the D2v from white to something more stiking out?
> 
> 
> Thank you



No, it is not.

--Bob


----------



## Armand07

I have not read the 30000 posts that are in this thread, but can someone please give a short summary or list containing what should be the present known bugs with the D2v processor?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I know of no substantial problems in the V2.10 firmware for the D2v. It has its quirks and even a few glitches. But basically it is in good shape to do what it is supposed to do with this firmware.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Hey Bob. I did what you suggested and turned the primary video ouput in the Oppo setup to component and it didn't make a difference. But I did get to watch something for about 10mins before the picture dropped out. So I conencted the Oppo using Component for video and Optical (for the moment) for audio and it's completly stable. I will probably hook up the analogs on the weekend. It relation to that I connect the six cables (RCA) to the analog input which is for SACD/DVD Audio? I didn't see any other inputs for audio other than the ones I'm already using b/w the 5 channel power amp and the Athem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The 6-Channel analog input RCA jacks are at the bottom middle of the back panel just under the Main Audio Out RCA jacks.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Official ARC 3.0, where art thou? Thou promised to come hence, but alas you've withered?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Has to be soon. They are about to ship the first Receivers, which are dependent on it.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Production on MRX receivers starts tomorrow. They're at CEDIA this week too so probably next week for ARC 3.0

John


----------



## SimonNo10

Hooked up the analogs tonight and got it all working. Now that I'm using the analog stage do I need to redo ARC? To be honest I'm finding the bass to be not as tight as I'm used to hearing. Is there settings I should be looking at when using the analogs? I've changed the setting to Analog/DSP on the Anthem, rest of the system sounds great except the bass just not enough presence.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Official ARC 3.0, where art thou? Thou promised to come hence, but alas you've withered?



Just grab the beta, ran it multiple times yesterday and it worked great. Everything sounds incredible in my room. Extremely tight.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19231836
> 
> 
> Hooked up the analogs tonight and got it all working. Now that I'm using the analog stage do I need to redo ARC? To be honest I'm finding the bass to be not as tight as I'm used to hearing. Is there settings I should be looking at when using the analogs? I've changed the setting to Analog/DSP on the Anthem, rest of the system sounds great except the bass just not enough presence.



In the Oppo, set every speaker to Large, with 0dB volume trim, and at the same distance (any distance as long as they are all the same). Make sure the Sub is set to ON. Set the Down Mix to 5.1 These settings only affect its analog output.


Also in the Oppo set Dynamic Range Control OFF. Check the Volume control on the Oppo remote and confirm that the Oppo's output volume is set all the way up (100).


In the D2v, check Source Setup for the 6-Channel input and make sure Room EQ is ON so that ARC is used with that Source. ANALOG-DSP should remain set for the 6-Channel Source. You do not need to redo ARC. You can confirm that the bass output is now properly balanced with the rest using a calibration disc with separate LFE channel ouput -- e.g., the AIX disc.

--Bob


----------



## barhoram

I've just gotten a 2.35:1 masking system for my standard 16:9 screen. Are there any setting in the D2 video adjustments to enhance this type of setup? (currently aren't planning on a lens).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've just gotten a 2.35:1 masking system for my standard 16:9 screen. Are there any setting in the D2 video adjustments to enhance this type of setup? (currently aren't planning on a lens).



If you mean you are masking down the top and bottom of a 16:9 screen then, no. Just view as normal. The masks will cut down light leak in the letter box bars.


If you have a 2.35:1 screen and an anamorphic lens you can use a custom crop with anamorphic scaling to create a Constant Image Height view. Then for 16:9 content you go back to a normal lens and mask the SIDES of your wider screen.


See the "Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling" post links in the first post of this thread.


(You could do the same sort of thing with your masked 16:9 screen, but you'd also have to adjust the throw of your anamorphic lens since of course you are changing the height of the screen. So more trouble than it is worth. )

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Awesome Bob thank you for that. God the back of the D2v looks so busy with all the RCA's plugged in







.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19235599
> 
> 
> Awesome Bob thank you for that. God the back of the D2v looks so busy with all the RCA's plugged in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



How does it sound now?

John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> How does it sound now?



Unfortunalty by the time I connected it all I was only able to test one BD being Gladiator for about 10mins and I thought the bass was very lacking but Bob has posted the setttings for both the Oppo and D2v so will implement them tonight and report back.


----------



## jayray

Someone posted this in the MRX thread.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ekajnabi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Salesman at CEIDA told that there will be probably be no Pre/Pro coming in near future; however, the current pre/pro can be altered (yes, hardware alternation) along with firmware upgrade late Q4 or early Q1 at service centers... they will retrofit four of the the HDMIs and replace with new ones supporting 1.4a.



Will have to check this out when Nick gets back from Cedia.


John


----------



## runnerlk

OK upgraded to 2.10 and ARC 2.4 here are my results. Any input greatly appreciated.

 

ArcResults092310.doc 141.5k . file


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19235810
> 
> 
> Unfortunalty by the time I connected it all I was only able to test one BD being Gladiator for about 10mins and I thought the bass was very lacking but Bob has posted the setttings for both the Oppo and D2v so will implement them tonight and report back.



I'll check later on, but you may need to apply a +10dB boost to the subwoofer channel because you are using the multichannel analog inputs and have the players bass management off(ie speakers set to Large). I had a quick look last night but couldn't find the specific analog +10dB/+15dB subwoofer output adjustment setting in the D2v.


Bob may know where it is or if the D2v automatically applies it on the 6-ch input. I have them hooked up so will run some tests and let you know what the go is.


cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19236065
> 
> 
> I'll check later on, but you may need to apply a +10dB boost to the subwoofer channel because you are using the multichannel analog inputs and have the players bass management off(ie speakers set to Large). I had a quick look last night but couldn't find the specific analog +10dB/+15dB subwoofer output adjustment setting in the D2v.
> 
> 
> Bob may know where it is or if the D2v automatically applies it on the 6-ch input. I have them hooked up so will run some tests and let you know what the go is.
> 
> 
> cheers



If he follows the Oppo and D2v settings I gave him the LFE will be correct -- for all disc formats.


The D2v will automatically apply the standard, 10dB LFE boost (prior to mixing in bass steered from the other channels) and the Oppo will output LFE that expects to be boosted.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If he follows the Oppo and D2v settings I gave him the LFE will be correct -- for all disc formats.
> 
> 
> The D2v will automatically apply the standard, 10dB LFE boost (prior to mixing in bass steered from the other channels) and the Oppo will output LFE that expects to be boosted.
> 
> --Bob



Afaik that's not quite how it's supposed to be applied. The LFE+redirected bass is lowered prior to summing to ensure the summed signal does not digitally clip, then post DAC the +15dB boost is applied to subwoofer channel in the analog volume control. If the avr/processor has all speakers set to large then the input is not reduced as no summing will occur and the +10dB adjustment is applied post DAC in the analog volume control chip.


Rodger would know for sure.


Most processors have the +10dB/+15dB adjustment as a manual setting that the user can select. From what you are saying it seems the D2v makes this adjustment automatically.


I'd assume the D2v is doing it correctly, though given prior issues that may not be a valid assumption.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19236444
> 
> 
> Afaik that's not quite how it's supposed to be applied. The LFE+redirected bass is lowered prior to summing to ensure the summed signal does not digitally clip, then post DAC the +15dB boost is applied to subwoofer channel in the analog volume control. If the avr/processor has all speakers set to large then the input is not reduced as no summing will occur and the +10dB adjustment is applied post DAC in the analog volume control chip.
> 
> 
> Rodger would know for sure.
> 
> 
> Most processors have the +10dB/+15dB adjustment as a manual setting that the user can select. From what you are saying it seems the D2v makes this adjustment automatically.
> 
> 
> I'd assume the D2v is doing it correctly, though given prior issues that may not be a valid assumption.
> 
> 
> Cheers



No. The LFE is lowered prior to recording on the disc and kept low on the cables to keep from clipping. I.e., 10dB head-room is built in to accommodate high volumes in bass effects.


If summing (bass steering) is done in the source then the LFE must be lowered further (along with the steered bass about to be summed in) to keep the combo from clipping at the other end of the output cable.


By setting all speakers to Large in the Oppo, along with having the subwoofer set to ON, you insure that no summing -- no bass steering -- will happen in the Oppo.


Thus the LFE content gets output 10dB down -- just as it came off the disc. (SACD stuff is handle specially in the Oppo so the same scheme works there as well.) This is always true for the digital outputs, and is true for the analog outputs when set as I specified.


It is OK, in fact preferable, to disable bass steering in the Oppo because ARC takes care of all that in the D2v. Similarly you disable time alignment in the Oppo (by setting all speakers to the same distance), and you disable volume trim adjustment in the Oppo since the D2v takes care of both of those.


The D2v by default will boost LFE input by 10db, whether it is arriving via analog or digital. This puts the LFE input at the same level as the other input channels, just in time for steered bass to arrive from the other channels as per your ARC setup.


------------------------------------


ETA: Ah, I see, you are talking about the signal path inside the D2v. Actually I treat the process inside the D2v as a black box. The details of whether they've maintained extra digital headroom or left it to analog volume control after the summing make no difference in terms of setting up the Source device.


The point is, the proper level for LFE from the Source is 10dB down (and with no bass steering having happened yet), and with that, ARC and the D2v produce the correct level for the summed bass on the subwoofer output. The settings I provided will do that for the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350

Yep, was referring to the D2v's internal processing







but either way, as you mentioned, the D2v should apply the correct adjustment.


I just ran a few tests(oppo bdp-83 with your stated settings) and have found there is a 5dB drop in the subwoofer output via 6-ch input when compared the hdmi connection. I first though it may have been due to the D2v applying +10dB across the board instead of +15dB when bass management is being applied but strangely the difference is there whether the D2v is applying bass management or not.


Again this is using the AIX tests which I believe output an LFE signal so the effects of summed bass won't be shown in the test, but it does mean that the test should result in a similar balance between LFE and mains for both hdmi and 6-ch input, which in this case they don't.


Btw there is also a slight overall difference in level between hdmi and 6-ch input.......6ch= +~2dB(I did ensure the 'analog input levels' for 6-ch were set to 0.0dB), not surprisingly though and easily adjusted for if you know it's there.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10

So going by that Macca I should increase the sub trim by 5db?


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19236884
> 
> 
> So going by that Macca I should increase the sub trim by 5db?



Yes, but depending on where the issue lies there may be a discrepancy between the level of LFE and redirected bass.


The way it normally works is that the LFE channel is mastered -10db. When played back with speakers set to Large(ie no BM) it is boosted by +10dB in the volume control as to allow the LFE content to have 10dB headroom above the other channels(ie 115dB SPL as opposed to 105dB SPL). When you set speakers to Small the LFE channel and redirected bass is reduced by 5dB to ensure no signal clipping due to the summing process. So when using BM the subwoofer(LFE+redirected bass) channel needs to be increased by +15dB to compensate for the standard -10dB mastering and -5dB due to BM.


Now if this -5dB discrepancy is occurring prior to redirected bass being summed then the LFE channel content will be 5dB lower than it should be yet the redirected bass will be at the correct level. So if you simply increase the output by +5dB to compensate then the LFE content will play at the correct level but the redirected bass will now be +5dB compared to the main channels from which it is derived.

If the -5dB discrepancy is occurring post the summing process(ie in the volume control of the D2v) then the balance between LFE and redirected bass is correct and increasing the subwoofer channel by +5dB will bring the overall level in line with the main channels.


If it's the former than an adjustment in the OPPO(ie reducing all the main channels by -5dB) can fix the issue(but the overall 6-ch levels will be lower).

If it's the latter then an adjustment in the D2v(ie increasing the Subwoofer output by +5dB) can fix the issue. Getting these around the wrong way will only fix part of the issue.


AVIA does have redirected bass test tones, so using them would help to determine where the issue may lie......after all it could be the output levels of the OPPO that are to blame, though this test won't rule out the D2v.


cheers


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19236971
> 
> 
> If it's the former than the adjustment in the OPPO(ie reducing all the main channels by -5dB) can fix the issue(but the overall 6-ch levels will be lower). If it's the latter then an adjustment in the D2v(ie increasing the Subwoofer output by +5dB) can fix the issue. Getting these around the wrong will only fix part of the issue.
> 
> 
> AVIA does have redirected bass test tones, so using them would help to determine where the issue may lie......after all it could be the output levels of the OPPO that are to blame.



Nice bit of detective work, mate. Bob, give the man a cookie!










I never use the analog outputs of my BDP-83, but all this talk got me to wondering. So I connected it to an HP 400 FL AC voltmeter and ran some Dolby Digital sine wave sweeps. Bottom line, the Oppo is applying the -5 dB gain to the LFE signal all the time, regardless of whether the mains are all large or not.


The redirected bass is correct relative to the LFE, so attenuating the mains by 5 dB will work perfectly for folks NOT using the player's bass management. No correction is needed when bass management is in use.


I'll drop a note to Jason at Oppo.


----------



## MACCA350

Thanks for that Rodger









Nice to see the D2v is in the clear on this one










cheers


----------



## MACCA350

A couple of thing that are really starting to bug me with the D2v.

1. Menu screen shows up about 50% of the time.......if it's not showing you might get it with a restart.

2. A break in the audio(ie pause movie/pvr etc) is increasingly causing the D2v to become mute even though when resumed it displays the audio signal is present(yep 'Auto DIG' is set to No).........I've tried flicking to/from another input but that doesn't work, only a power cycle will fix it

3. The front panel display sometimes(no particular pattern to it) doesn't show what listening mode you are in at the time(ie only shows the channels and volume on the second line) even though hitting the 'Mode' or 'THX' button confirms it is applying a particular processing.........sometimes hitting those buttons or going in/out of the menu or pause/unpause will bring it back.

4. The D2v will sometimes become completely unresponsive or sluggish to remote commands, as if it's run out of resources.........give it a few seconds and it wakes up again, though it runs through all the commands you've hit in the interim.

5. The startup cycle time seems to be inconsistent, sometimes quick sometimes takes a while.

6. Sometimes(but rarely) the video processing hiccups and you get a very choppy framerate look.........pause, switch inputs, etc will fix.

7. Sometimes(and quite often) colors go up the duff(yep video output is manually set), caused either by switching inputs or going in/out of the menu........switch inputs/menu will fix.


............and I haven't even mentioned the decoding level issues.........well, now I have










Since the system is not a dedicated movie system with just a BD player hooked up to a projector and only used occasionally, it's a lounge/HT that's constantly used for many different inputs and running dual displays so needs to be stable for not just one input and output but for the lot.........ie PJ, LCD, BD, HD DVD, PVR, Cable TV, PS3, WII.


As far as stability goes, my lowly Denon 3808 wipes the floor with the D2v..........when you consider that, it's quite frustrating putting up with the issues of the D2v. Hopefully firmware updates can bring some stability to it soon otherwise I'll be looking to move on unfortunately.


Anyway, just having a whinge as No. 2. popped up for the third time today.


cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Which firmware are you guys on in the Oppo? The official or the "public Beta"?


I've tested this in the past and there was no such problem, but I haven't tested the Oppo for this recently.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19237825
> 
> 
> A couple of thing that are really starting to bug me with the D2v.



Looking at some of your issues, I would take a look at your HDMI connections, with the deep color hdmi cables, they are sometimes heavy and put weight or strain on the connections of the D2v, even a slightly to the side cable will cause problems such as this. I have ran into alot of those same problems after messing around back there and the cables get mis-aligned.


Make sure both the HDMI inputs and especially the cable out to the display has absolutely no strain on it whatsoever. I use velcro wrap and combine all the cables to something sturdy, then tweak each one until its perfectly lined up into the socket. This generally 98% of the time fixes most of those issues listed.


I agree with you 100% that I have seen much better implementation of HDMI sockets on just about every piece of gear I have owned. Never had issues like this - but it is what it is, so you have to work around the situation like this. Once you get those things situated, it will be a much smoother operating unit... I promise.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19237893
> 
> 
> Which firmware are you guys on in the Oppo? The official or the "public Beta"?
> 
> 
> I've tested this in the past and there was no such problem, but I haven't tested the Oppo for this recently.
> 
> --Bob



I'm on the latest official version.


cheers


----------



## barhoram

Ran into a wierd issue with my D2 yesterday. While calibrating my projector, the on-screen video menu (hit 7 and hold) was acting verry funny. If it timed out while on one of the test patterns, I could not get it to come back up. The front D2 panel was acting like the menu was up, but it would not show up on the scren. The only way I could get it to diplay again was to power the unit on and then off. This happened 3-4 times, and was obviously somewhat annoying. Anyone ever experience this ??


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19237825
> 
> 
> A couple of thing that are really starting to bug me with the D2v.
> 
> 1. Menu screen shows up about 50% of the time.......if it's not showing you might get it with a restart.
> 
> 2. A break in the audio(ie pause movie/pvr etc) is increasingly causing the D2v to become mute even though when resumed it displays the audio signal is present(yep 'Auto DIG' is set to No).........I've tried flicking to/from another input but that doesn't work, only a power cycle will fix it
> 
> 3. The front panel display sometimes(no particular pattern to it) doesn't show what listening mode you are in at the time(ie only shows the channels and volume on the second line) even though hitting the 'Mode' or 'THX' button confirms it is applying a particular processing.........sometimes hitting those buttons or going in/out of the menu or pause/unpause will bring it back.
> 
> 4. The D2v will sometimes become completely unresponsive or sluggish to remote commands, as if it's run out of resources.........give it a few seconds and it wakes up again, though it runs through all the commands you've hit in the interim.
> 
> 5. The startup cycle time seems to be inconsistent, sometimes quick sometimes takes a while.
> 
> 6. Sometimes(but rarely) the video processing hiccups and you get a very choppy framerate look.........pause, switch inputs, etc will fix.
> 
> 7. Sometimes(and quite often) colors go up the duff(yep video output is manually set), caused either by switching inputs or going in/out of the menu........switch inputs/menu will fix.
> 
> 
> ............and I haven't even mentioned the decoding level issues.........well, now I have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the system is not a dedicated movie system with just a BD player hooked up to a projector and only used occasionally, it's a lounge/HT that's constantly used for many different inputs and running dual displays so needs to be stable for not just one input and output but for the lot.........ie PJ, LCD, BD, HD DVD, PVR, Cable TV, PS3, WII.
> 
> 
> As far as stability goes, my lowly Denon 3808 wipes the floor with the D2v..........when you consider that, it's quite frustrating putting up with the issues of the D2v. Hopefully firmware updates can bring some stability to it soon otherwise I'll be looking to move on unfortunately.
> 
> 
> Anyway, just having a whinge as No. 2. popped up for the third time today.
> 
> 
> cheers



I have not experienced any of these issues. I have a few "handshake" issues occasionally with HDMI connections.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/19238160
> 
> 
> Ran into a wierd issue with my D2 yesterday. While calibrating my projector, the on-screen video menu (hit 7 and hold) was acting verry funny. If it timed out while on one of the test patterns, I could not get it to come back up. The front D2 panel was acting like the menu was up, but it would not show up on the scren. The only way I could get it to diplay again was to power the unit on and then off. This happened 3-4 times, and was obviously somewhat annoying. Anyone ever experience this ??



This is a known bug in the D2 firmware. If you let the Video Source Adjust menu time out -- go away on its own -- it won't display again until you power cycle. The workaround is to back out of the test chart and go back in periodically so that the menu doesn't time out.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19237825
> 
> 
> A couple of thing that are really starting to bug me with the D2v.
> 
> 1. Menu screen shows up about 50% of the time.......if it's not showing you might get it with a restart.
> 
> 2. A break in the audio(ie pause movie/pvr etc) is increasingly causing the D2v to become mute even though when resumed it displays the audio signal is present(yep 'Auto DIG' is set to No).........I've tried flicking to/from another input but that doesn't work, only a power cycle will fix it
> 
> 3. The front panel display sometimes(no particular pattern to it) doesn't show what listening mode you are in at the time(ie only shows the channels and volume on the second line) even though hitting the 'Mode' or 'THX' button confirms it is applying a particular processing.........sometimes hitting those buttons or going in/out of the menu or pause/unpause will bring it back.
> 
> 4. The D2v will sometimes become completely unresponsive or sluggish to remote commands, as if it's run out of resources.........give it a few seconds and it wakes up again, though it runs through all the commands you've hit in the interim.
> 
> 5. The startup cycle time seems to be inconsistent, sometimes quick sometimes takes a while.
> 
> 6. Sometimes(but rarely) the video processing hiccups and you get a very choppy framerate look.........pause, switch inputs, etc will fix.
> 
> 7. Sometimes(and quite often) colors go up the duff(yep video output is manually set), caused either by switching inputs or going in/out of the menu........switch inputs/menu will fix.
> 
> 
> ............and I haven't even mentioned the decoding level issues.........well, now I have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the system is not a dedicated movie system with just a BD player hooked up to a projector and only used occasionally, it's a lounge/HT that's constantly used for many different inputs and running dual displays so needs to be stable for not just one input and output but for the lot.........ie PJ, LCD, BD, HD DVD, PVR, Cable TV, PS3, WII.
> 
> 
> As far as stability goes, my lowly Denon 3808 wipes the floor with the D2v..........when you consider that, it's quite frustrating putting up with the issues of the D2v. Hopefully firmware updates can bring some stability to it soon otherwise I'll be looking to move on unfortunately.
> 
> 
> Anyway, just having a whinge as No. 2. popped up for the third time today.
> 
> 
> cheers



#4 is a sign that some portion of the processor is crashing and rebooting. It is often a sign that the current firmware install is corrupted.


So one thing to try is to download a fresh copy of the V2.10 firmware and re-install it on top of itself. Do that just like any other firmware install (i.e., Reload Factory Defaults prior to the install, and make sure you have no powered HDMI Source or Display connections during the install -- e.g., remove wall power from Sources and the Display).


One thing that's been associated with firmware corruption in the Anthems is sudden loss of wall power particularly if the whole system is shut down that way. Apparently what happens in some setups is that other devices (e.g., power amps) end up dumping their stored power out the cables as they shut down. This has been seen with the original D2 and AVM 50. I don't know of any confirmed cases of it happening with the D2v or AVM 50v, but it is probably wise to avoid such situations anyway. So don't use an external power control to shut down your system. Turn off the Anthem with it's normal Power OFF before cutting wall power.


I have my D2v plugged into an APC Battery Backup -- the sort sold for use with computers (not a power conditioner, just a battery backup and surge protector). That insures the D2v won't see any brief power glitches.

--Bob


----------



## perioms

Is there a remote shortcut key to switch between Arc music and movie mode?

I didnt`t find it in the manual.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/19235948
> 
> 
> OK upgraded to 2.10 and ARC 2.4 here are my results. Any input greatly appreciated.



I would try to get the beta, but really the new ARC soon to appear on their public site, version 3.0 from their tech site. Call them and they will probably allow you access to this page. v3.0 is very good and your results will be better. I will comment on your sub. The 100-60Hz region indicates a poor placement. Try moving the sub and by the way, v3.0 allows a quick measurement for individual speakers and the sub so you can move it around and do a quick measurement to see what the best spot is. You are now missing some of the punch in this region. A 10 dB drop in this region can give a pretty poor sub response. You should also post your Target window as well.

John


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19237825
> 
> 
> A couple of thing that are really starting to bug me with the D2v.
> 
> 1. Menu screen shows up about 50% of the time.......if it's not showing you might get it with a restart...............



I have this problem too. Rather annoying when you have to get your ass off your comfortable seat and approach the unit to continue the process using the front panel display.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19236990
> 
> 
> I'll drop a note to Jason at Oppo.



Yes, please do. He's at CEDIA right now so I'll also alert some other Oppo contacts.


I can't reconfigure to confirm this right now, but I trust what you guys are saying.


-------------------------------------


For folks using the Oppo BDP-83 with an Anthem prepro, this issue ONLY affects the multi-channel analog audio outputs from the Oppo. Not the dedicated 2-channel output, nor the digital audio outputs such as HDMI audio.


Since the Oppo is apparently putting out LFE that is 5dB too low when all speakers in it are set to Large, it should be safe to simply apply a +5dB volume trim in the Oppo's setting for the subwoofer -- which will only alter its multi-channel analog output. Doing that won't clip that output since no bass steering/summing is happening in the Oppo (with all speakers set to Large), and the net result will be proper LFE at the correct -10dB output level. The D2v will then apply the standard +10dB LFE boost to that.


Leave the other Oppo speaker volume trims at the default 0dB and leave the Anthem volume trims at default levels as well (e.g., the output levels as set by ARC).


This is a better solution than lowering the other channels by 5dB as that will increase the noise floor (i.e., push the signal down so that when you boost volume to hear it again you are also hearing the now-amplified noise from down there).


Folks using HDMI audio from the Oppo don't need to change anything. Folks using both HDMI and multi-channel analog from the Oppo can make the change above (raising Sub output volume trim by +5dB in the Oppo) without screwing up their HDMI audio.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/19238699
> 
> 
> Is there a remote shortcut key to switch between Arc music and movie mode?
> 
> I didnt`t find it in the manual.



There is not. The closest alternative is to set up two identical Source definitions with one using Movie and the other using Music.


I believe you CAN flip between Movie and Music configurations on the fly using the RS-232 (Serial port) command set.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is not. The closest alternative is to set up two identical Source definitions with one using Movie and the other using Music.
> 
> 
> I believe you CAN flip between Movie and Music configurations on the fly using the RS-232 (Serial port) command set.
> 
> --Bob



Yes you can do on the fly with rs-232 commands. Look up Irule in the forums here. That is what I use and they are getting ready to implement 2 way communication and one of the developers test systems is a d2v!



Don


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19237893
> 
> 
> Which firmware are you guys on in the Oppo? The official or the "public Beta"?
> 
> 
> I've tested this in the past and there was no such problem, but I haven't tested the Oppo for this recently.
> 
> --Bob



Release date: August 24, 2010.

Category: Public Beta Version

Main Version: BDP83-52-0816B


Yeah, I was under the impression that was buttoned up a long time ago...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19239542
> 
> 
> Release date: August 24, 2010.
> 
> Category: Public Beta Version
> 
> Main Version: BDP83-52-0816B
> 
> 
> Yeah, I was under the impression that was buttoned up a long time ago...



Well I've already looked sharply in the direction of the Beta testers who focus on analog hookup!









--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

God I can't wait to get my replacement unit and start using HDMI. I will apply the +5db to the sub trim on the Oppo as suggested. Also what's confusing me now (sorry) is the setting of the overall speaker levels. Now I set the levels using a SPL Meter then ran ARC and it set (adjusted) the trims accordingly, so does that mean I don't have to bother using the AIX BD to check the levels as ARC has already set the trims correctly?


Also I'm inclined to implement the SVS AS-EQ back into the chain as the hard hitting tightness that was there before just isn't there anymore after running ARC. Not sure if it's something else but it's just missing that impact that I heard when I had the AS-EQ unit in there. Will test after applying the +5db and see how it sounds.


So by the end of October I should have my replacement of the Anthem plus a 2nd Seaton Submersive. Good times ahead.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19240522
> 
> 
> God I can't wait to get my replacement unit and start using HDMI. I will apply the +5db to the sub trim on the Oppo as suggested. Also what's confusing me now (sorry) is the setting of the overall speaker levels. Now I set the levels using a SPL Meter then ran ARC and it set (adjusted) the trims accordingly, so does that mean I don't have to bother using the AIX BD to check the levels as ARC has already set the trims correctly?
> 
> 
> Also I'm inclined to implement the SVS AS-EQ back into the chain as the hard hitting tightness that was there before just isn't there anymore after running ARC. Not sure if it's something else but it's just missing that impact that I heard when I had the AS-EQ unit in there. Will test after applying the +5db and see how it sounds.
> 
> 
> So by the end of October I should have my replacement of the Anthem plus a 2nd Seaton Submersive. Good times ahead.



ARC has set the trims correctly. You can still use an LPCM track from the AIX disc to double check, but if you find a problem it will be a Source problem like the one we are just now futzing with on the Oppo multi-channel analog output.


No problem experimenting with the sub EQ engaged if you want, just remember to do the ARC stuff last. I.e., set up the sub EQ and THEN do your ARC Measurement with the sub EQ in place so that ARC hears the modified sub output. Keep in mind that ARC is also matching the main speaker responses to the sub, so you can't do it the other way around (ARC first and then SVS) without screwing that up.


If you are passing audio through the D2v while setting up the SVS, you should temporarily turn off Room EQ for that Source so that ARC's previous corrections don't confuse what you are trying to set up with SVS.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks Bob once again will see how the system sounds after the sub trim correction and if I'm still not happy I will put the AS-EQ back in.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19237893
> 
> 
> Which firmware are you guys on in the Oppo? The official or the "public Beta"?
> 
> 
> I've tested this in the past and there was no such problem, but I haven't tested the Oppo for this recently.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I observed and posted this same issue in both Oppo 83/83SE forums about a week ago and was almost laughed out of town. I had observed a 3-4db difference on my RS meter between the subwoofer outputs when switching HDMI and the analog MCH outputs. I was using the latest beta FW. So, I switched back to the official and still measured and observed the same thing. I was using the Pentatone SACD for my subwoofer tests.


I quickly bowed out of the discussion choking it up to my newbie-ness in all things audio.


I feel vindicated that other folks have observed the same phenomena as I did.


I have upped the sub trim by +5dB for now per your suggestion. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had observed a 3-4db difference on my RS meter between the subwoofer outputs when switching HDMI and the analog MCH outputs.



Yep that lines up well with my findings, next time keep nagging










As I mentioned, I found there is an overall level difference between the HDMI and 6-ch input of +2dB when running the OPPO BD83(may differ with different players), so a direct subwoofer channel comparison reveals a -3dB drop on the 6-ch input when compared to the HDMI. But when you compare with the main channels, due to the +2dB on the 6-ch input, there is a -5dB drop.


So if you want to have an accurate level comparison when switching between HDMI and 6-ch you need to do 2 things:

1. Increase the OPPO's subwoofer output by +5dB if no BM in the player, as Bob has detailed

2. Decrease the D2v's 6-ch 'Analog Input Level' by -2dB


This should give you near identical levels between HDMI and 6-ch analog input.




Bob, I assumed they could only be reduced in level not increased which is why I suggested reducing all the other channels. I was concerned about the increased noise floor and was going to have another look at it. I'm glad you pointed out they can be increased, given the level is decreased by 5dB already increasing 5dB has no ill effects










Btw my D2v arrived with v2.10 fw loaded, so I'd assume they performed it correctly. At some stage I'll reinstall it and see how the stability goes.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19241746
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I observed and posted this same issue in both Oppo 83/83SE forums about a week ago and was almost laughed out of town. I had observed a 3-4db difference on my RS meter between the subwoofer outputs when switching HDMI and the analog MCH outputs. I was using the latest beta FW. So, I switched back to the official and still measured and observed the same thing. I was using the Pentatone SACD for my subwoofer tests.
> 
> 
> I quickly bowed out of the discussion choking it up to my newbie-ness in all things audio.
> 
> 
> I feel vindicated that other folks have observed the same phenomena as I did.
> 
> 
> I have upped the sub trim by +5dB for now per your suggestion. Thanks for the tip!



Frankly, I don't understand how this happened. I know it was tested for.


I'm wondering whether there might have been a hardware change rolled in that allowed this to happen, in which case it wouldn't be present on older units. But it's probably just in the firmware and got missed as a change in one of the later firmware releases.


Note that MOST folks using the multi-channel output expect the player to do bass steering for them -- i.e., they don't have all speakers set to Large in the player. And so they would not see problems as 15dB down is the correct place for the sub output from the player when it is asked to do bass steering. And again, this is a non-issue for folks using HDMI audio from the player.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19241859
> 
> 
> As I mentioned, I found there is an overall level difference between the HDMI and 6-ch input of +2dB when running the OPPO BD83(may differ with different players), so a direct subwoofer channel comparison reveals a -3dB drop on the 6-ch input when compared to the HDMI. But when you compare with the main channels, due to the +2dB on the 6-ch input, there is a -5dB drop.



I concur. I played a DD test tone (not from the same disc as before, MACCA







) recorded at 0dBFS, and the Oppo outputs 2.4 Vrms, which is 1.6 dB higher than the nominal 2Vrms level normally associated with digital converters. The A-D in the Anthem is probably set to roughly 2V, so it all correlates perfectly with what is being reported about the 2 dB offset.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I concur. I played a DD test tone (not from the same disc as before, MACCA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) recorded at 0dBFS, and the Oppo outputs 2.4 Vrms, which is 1.6 dB higher than the nominal 2Vrms level normally associated with digital converters. The A-D in the Anthem is probably set to roughly 2V, so it all correlates perfectly with what is being reported about the 2 dB offset.



Nice, so you've confirmed this is due to the OPPO output levels being slightly higher than the standard(though well within the 5.3Vrms max tolerance of the D2v.....btw rated input is 2.0Vrms as you suggested), which means this difference may not be present or may be a different level with other players.


I suppose one could just make all the adjustments in the OPPO(ie drop main channels by -2dB and increase sub channel by +3dB) since it's the culprit.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10

So just to confirm I have this correct. In the Oppo set all speakers to large and adjust the sub trim to +5? Also I want to enable Anthemlogic Cin to a 2 channel show I'm playing via a usb stick plugged into the Oppo but all the surround modes say N/A. I'm currently have the source on 6 channel with Analog DSP enabled and when i press mode then use the main volume to switch to a surround mode it just says none. Have I missed something in the setup to allow me to select a surround mode on anything I'm watching? THX is currently off.


----------



## perioms

Until now I am using the same settings for music and movie mode. Anywhere in this thread I read, that it is possible to use different mic positions. If this is true, have I to take the movie measurements first and then with the changed mic positions the music measurements?


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/19242193
> 
> 
> Until now I am using the same settings for music and movie mode. Anywhere in this thread I read, that it is possible to use different mic positions. If this is true, have I to take the movie measurements first and then with the changed mic positions the music measurements?



When you tell ARC that you have different Movie and Music configuration (I don't remember if this is available in basic mode or advanced is required). ARC has then different configuration of how many speakers you have for Movie and then Music. Then it does a full set of measurement for movie and a different set of measurement for music, you can then change mic location, chair location and screen location if needed between the 2 sets of measurements.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19242166
> 
> 
> So just to confirm I have this correct. In the Oppo set all speakers to large and adjust the sub trim to +5?



Yes, that's the simple way.

But to get levels correct to reference you'll either have to also reduce the analog input level for 6-ch by -2dB or reduce all levels in the OPPO by -2dB(ie mains -2dB, sub +3dB)



> Quote:
> Also I want to enable Anthemlogic Cin to a 2 channel show I'm playing via a usb stick plugged into the Oppo but all the surround modes are greyed out? I currently have the source on 6 channel with Analog DSP enabled and when i press mode then use the main volume to switch to a surround mode it just says none. Have I missed something in the setup to allow me to select a surround mode on anything I'm watching? THX is currently off.



Afaik since you're in 6-ch analog input mode the Anthem assumes you have a 6 channel(5.1) signal so will only allow modes that expand from 5.1 to 6/7.1 if you have those channels active in the main speaker setup, otherwise you get none since the source channels match the output channels.


If you want to be able to use Anthemlogic/or other to expand 2 channel to 5.1 channel you may need to set up another input(or DVD2) and connect the OPPO via the separate 2 channel analog outputs(not 100% sure they are active if the OPPO is set to multichannel though, you'd have to check) or use optical to send digitally then you can apply processing depending on the active channels in the source.


6-ch is just that and afaik the anthem treats it as a 5.1 source no matter what channels are active.


Cheers


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19225176
> 
> 
> For your problem as it stands now, you should of course not be using any source to test. Until you can get stable HDMI with the internally generated video there's no point in testing with a Source.
> 
> 
> That said for the 83 what I recommend for an HDMI connection is explicit 1080p, YCbCr 4:2:2, 30-bit (Dithered), TV System Multi, 1080p/24 Auto, DVD/24 OFF, Secondary Audio OFF, HDMI Audio either Bitstream or LPCM (there are reasons to use both in different circumstances), SACD Audio PCM, HDCD Decoding ON, Dynamic Range Control OFF. I do not recommend Component video from the 83 (except of course in a situation like yours where HDMI is broken) as Component video bypasses the video processor in the 83.
> 
> 
> For the D2v the input video levels in Video Source Adjust for the Oppo Source should be at factory default. The Video Output settings depend upon what works best with your projector. For a 1080p projector like yours with an HDMI input the normal starting point would be Data YCbCr 4:4:4, Color Space HDTV, Sync Normal, and of course 1080p/60 output. Using 1080p/24 to the display should not be tried until you are sure the "normal" 1080p/60 stuff is working correctly. Of course all of the above assumes the HDMI in your D2v is working properly.
> 
> 
> I don't know enough about the Sanyo to rattle off the right settings inside it. Once you get stable HDMI you will need to check with a calibration disc to make sure the settings in the projector are correct. I can tell you that with the recommended settings both the Oppo and the D2v put out "correct" HDMI video, so any errors shown by the calibration disc would point to an incorrect setting in the projector.
> 
> 
> Check the post link on "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" found in the first post of this thread for some basic guidance on that.
> 
> --Bob



how do you make the decision between bitstream & LPCM?

i have a new Oppo 80 and was playing with the settings

on DVD, bitstream lit the DD light, but BD (VE Test) didn't have any audio

i switched to LPCM and now had audio w/BD, but on DVD's none of the DD/DTS lights are on, but i appear to have multichannel sound?

no SACD yet


mark


----------



## jayray




dmusoke said:


> Bob:
> 
> 
> I observed and posted this same issue in both Oppo 83/83SE forums about a week ago and was almost laughed out of town. I had observed a 3-4db difference on my RS meter between the subwoofer outputs when switching HDMI and the analog MCH outputs. I was using the latest beta FW. So, I switched back to the official and still measured and observed the same thing. I was using the Pentatone SACD for my subwoofer tests.
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> There is no shortage of stubbornness on the AVS forum. Ultimately one has to develop a tough skin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/19242506
> 
> 
> how do you make the decision between bitstream & LPCM?
> 
> i have a new Oppo 80 and was playing with the settings
> 
> on DVD, bitstream lit the DD light, but BD (VE Test) didn't have any audio
> 
> i switched to LPCM and now had audio w/BD, but on DVD's none of the DD/DTS lights are on, but i appear to have multichannel sound?
> 
> no SACD yet
> 
> 
> mark



First as to the lights: If you send a Bitstream to the Anthem then it can determine the format of the audio and turn on the lights. The Anthem then decodes the Bitstream (whatever format it happens to be) into LPCM as the first step in its processing. However if you tell the player to do the decode into LPCM, there is no way for the Anthem to know what audio format was present on the audio track prior to that decode. So no lights are possible. Instead check the on screen info display on the Oppo to learn the format of the audio track being played. This is all normal.


LPCM is the simplest form of digital audio. All of the Bitstream formats are just different ways to pack up a set of LPCM streams (one per speaker) into a more compact format that takes less space on disc and less data rate to read off the disc. However the Bitstream packing formats must be decoded back into their LPCM content before you can DO anything with that audio.


In the vast majority of cases it makes no difference whether you let the player or the Anthem do the decoding. They will produce the same results.


However there are a few instances where it is better for the OPPO to send LPCM and a few where it is better for it to send Bitstream.


1) The D2v does not decode the additional dynamic range info in HDCD discs. It will play them just as if they were standard CDs. So set HDCD Decoding to ON in the Oppo and use HDMI Audio LPCM from the Oppo. The Oppo will put out 24 bit LPCM (of which 20 bits are used in the HDCD audio) with the extra dynamic range present. Expect the volume to be 6dB down when you do this to accommodate the extra dynamic range -- just raise volume in the D2v if you want.


2) The Oppo has what's called a "DTS Essentials" decoder. That means it will NOT decode the rear channel information present in DTS-ES tracks found on some standard DVDs. So use HDMI Audio Bitstream from the Oppo in that case, as the D2v WILL decode that info. Note that this is only relevant if you have a 6.1 or 7.1 speaker system.


3) DTS-HD MA on Blu-Ray is limited to 96KHz for 7.1 tracks but allows 192KHz for 5.1 tracks. (TrueHD on Blu-Ray allows 192KHz for both.) Typically these high rates will only be found on specialty music Blu-Ray discs. Due to a processor power limitation in the OPPO, it will decode 192KHz DTS-HD MA 5.1 as only 96KHz. In such case it is better to use HDMI Audio Bitstream from the Oppo as the D2v will decode the full 192KHz. Note that this is an issue for just this one, specific, and fairly rare format. There is no such issue with 7.1 DTS-HD MA or with any TrueHD tracks for example. Also note that it is a rare individual who will be able to hear any difference between the track decoded as 96KHz vs. the full 192KHz.


4) There have been some recent reports here of level differences when the D2v is doing the decoding. You can read back a few pages in this thread to see what's being discussed. In most cases what's been reported is cured simply by adjusting main volume, as you are likely doing anyway with each thing you play. However some cases indicate level errors between speakers on the same track, which of course can't be fixed just by adjusting main volume. We've not yet heard back from Anthem on this. Using LPCM input is a good workaround if you are concerned about this.


I'll need more info on your problem with getting audio from Blu-Ray on your BDP-80. What is a "VE Test"? What settings are you using in the Oppo?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19242166
> 
> 
> So just to confirm I have this correct. In the Oppo set all speakers to large and adjust the sub trim to +5? Also I want to enable Anthemlogic Cin to a 2 channel show I'm playing via a usb stick plugged into the Oppo but all the surround modes say N/A. I'm currently have the source on 6 channel with Analog DSP enabled and when i press mode then use the main volume to switch to a surround mode it just says none. Have I missed something in the setup to allow me to select a surround mode on anything I'm watching? THX is currently off.



You can't apply a 2 channel surround mode to a 6 channel input. There's no way for the Anthem to know the silence in the surround channels of the 6 channel input isn't "real".


Since your HDMI is broken at the moment, used Optical audio from the Oppo for content like this when you want the Anthem to apply surround processing to raise it to more speakers for output.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms* /forum/post/19242193
> 
> 
> Until now I am using the same settings for music and movie mode. Anywhere in this thread I read, that it is possible to use different mic positions. If this is true, have I to take the movie measurements first and then with the changed mic positions the music measurements?



When you do the ARC Measurements, clear the check box that says Music is "same as" Movie. ARC will have you move the mic around for the Movie Measurements then it will start over and have you move the mic around again for the Music Measurements.


Keep in mind that you can't go overboard on using different positions for the two configurations. For example there are only one set of volume trims and one set of speaker distances shared between Movie and Music.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19242102
> 
> 
> Nice, so you've confirmed this is due to the OPPO output levels being slightly higher than the standard(though well within the 5.3Vrms max tolerance of the D2v.....btw rated input is 2.0Vrms as you suggested), which means this difference may not be present or may be a different level with other players.
> 
> 
> I suppose one could just make all the adjustments in the OPPO(ie drop main channels by -2dB and increase sub channel by +3dB) since it's the culprit.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Note that the dedicated 2-channel analog outputs on the Oppo BDP-83 have a different reference voltage level than its multi-channel analog outputs. I can't recall whether it is higher or lower, but it is different.


Oppo had a good reason for this, but since I don't use analog I don't recall what it was.

--Bob


----------



## cosmos5861

I have an Anthem AVM 50. This morning I tried to install 1.47f update. The update failed and now my receiver will not turn on. Any suggestions?


When installing update error msg. EEPROM programming failed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/19243207
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem AVM 50. This morning I tried to install 1.47f update. The update failed and now my receiver will not turn on. Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> When installing update error msg. EEPROM programming failed.



Give Anthem tech support a call on Monday.


You will likely need to use the Flash Eraser utility to reset the programmable parts in your AVM 50. Then retry the install.


Are you sure your AVM 50 hardware was suitable for use with "test" V1.47f? I.e., have you checked to see whether your AVM 50 has a red colored video board or does NOT have the large, toroidal (donut shaped) transformer in its power supply?


If not, there have been some previous reports where the recovery, after letting Flash Eraser do its thing, was to first install an older V1.28 version, and then install official V1.33 on top of that. Again, Anthem tech support can walk you through all of this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/19242506
> 
> 
> how do you make the decision between bitstream & LPCM?
> 
> i have a new Oppo 80 and was playing with the settings
> 
> on DVD, bitstream lit the DD light, but BD (VE Test) didn't have any audio
> 
> i switched to LPCM and now had audio w/BD, but on DVD's none of the DD/DTS lights are on, but i appear to have multichannel sound?
> 
> no SACD yet
> 
> 
> mark



An additional item for you. If you want to play SACD discs over HDMI from the Oppo set SACD Audio PCM in the Oppo. The Anthem does not decode the DSD stream from SACD discs but the Oppo does.


If you set SACD Audio Bitstream in the Oppo it will appear to work -- you will get LPCM input at the D2v -- but that's because the Oppo and D2v figure it out during the HDMI handshake. And that's the problem because you will get periodic glitches in the audio as this test gets redone while you are playing the disc. So set SACD Audio PCM in the Oppo for SACD playback over HDMI and you'll be fine. Note that this is a separate setting in the Oppo. You can use PCM for SACD discs and still use Bitstream for other content if you want.

--Bob


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19243154
> 
> 
> First as to the lights: If you send a Bitstream to the Anthem then it can determine the format of the audio and turn on the lights. The Anthem then decodes the Bitstream (whatever format it happens to be) into LPCM as the first step in its processing. However if you tell the player to do the decode into LPCM, there is no way for the Anthem to know what audio format was present on the audio track prior to that decode. So no lights are possible. Instead check the on screen info display on the Oppo to learn the format of the audio track being played. This is all normal.
> 
> 
> LPCM is the simplest form of digital audio. All of the Bitstream formats are just different ways to pack up a set of LPCM streams (one per speaker) into a more compact format that takes less space on disc and less data rate to read off the disc. However the Bitstream packing formats must be decoded back into their LPCM content before you can DO anything with that audio.
> 
> 
> In the vast majority of cases it makes no difference whether you let the player or the Anthem do the decoding. They will produce the same results.
> 
> 
> However there are a few instances where it is better for the OPPO to send LPCM and a few where it is better for it to send Bitstream.
> 
> 
> 1) The D2v does not decode the additional dynamic range info in HDCD discs. It will play them just as if they were standard CDs. So set HDCD Decoding to ON in the Oppo and use HDMI Audio LPCM from the Oppo. The Oppo will put out 24 bit LPCM (of which 20 bits are used in the HDCD audio) with the extra dynamic range present. Expect the volume to be 6dB down when you do this to accommodate the extra dynamic range -- just raise volume in the D2v if you want.
> 
> 
> 2) The Oppo has what's called a "DTS Essentials" decoder. That means it will NOT decode the rear channel information present in DTS-ES tracks found on some standard DVDs. So use HDMI Audio Bitstream from the Oppo in that case, as the D2v WILL decode that info. Note that this is only relevant if you have a 6.1 or 7.1 speaker system.
> 
> 
> 3) DTS-HD MA on Blu-Ray is limited to 96KHz for 7.1 tracks but allows 192KHz for 5.1 tracks. (TrueHD on Blu-Ray allows 192KHz for both.) Typically these high rates will only be found on specialty music Blu-Ray discs. Due to a processor power limitation in the OPPO, it will decode 192KHz DTS-HD MA 5.1 as only 96KHz. In such case it is better to use HDMI Audio Bitstream from the Oppo as the D2v will decode the full 192KHz. Note that this is an issue for just this one, specific, and fairly rare format. There is no such issue with 7.1 DTS-HD MA or with any TrueHD tracks for example. Also note that it is a rare individual who will be able to hear any difference between the track decoded as 96KHz vs. the full 192KHz.
> 
> 
> 4) There have been some recent reports here of level differences when the D2v is doing the decoding. You can read back a few pages in this thread to see what's being discussed. In most cases what's been reported is cured simply by adjusting main volume, as you are likely doing anyway with each thing you play. However some cases indicate level errors between speakers on the same track, which of course can't be fixed just by adjusting main volume. We've not yet heard back from Anthem on this. Using LPCM input is a good workaround if you are concerned about this.
> 
> 
> I'll need more info on your problem with getting audio from Blu-Ray on your BDP-80. What is a "VE Test"? What settings are you using in the Oppo?
> 
> --Bob



sorry, VE Test is the Video Essentials BD disc


mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> sorry, VE Test is the Video Essentials BD disc
> 
> 
> mark



And the settings in the Oppo? I presume you are using HDMI for the connection, correct?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So just to confirm I have this correct. In the Oppo set all speakers to large and adjust the sub trim to +5? Also I want to enable Anthemlogic Cin to a 2 channel show I'm playing via a usb stick plugged into the Oppo but all the surround modes say N/A. I'm currently have the source on 6 channel with Analog DSP enabled and when i press mode then use the main volume to switch to a surround mode it just says none. Have I missed something in the setup to allow me to select a surround mode on anything I'm watching? THX is currently off.



Or as an alternative to using Optical for your stereo content, you could also hook up the dedicated 2-channel analog output of the Oppo to any of the stereo analog inputs in the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19243678
> 
> 
> And the settings in the Oppo? I presume you are using HDMI for the connection, correct?
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks for the explanation

yes, i am using HDMI

i just did some more testing and set the Oppo to Digital Audio: Auto

i now get sound for both DVD & BD

the DD lights up for DVD, but for the BD disc, the Oppo says TrueHD, the D2v says 5.1 DolbyHD in the display, but the TrueHD light does not light up?


i can't seem to get 1080p24 either, i set the Oppo to Auto & i had Video Config 1 set to 1080p60, i tried Auto, but still didn't get 1080p24

accordinng to the D2v the input from the Oppo is 1080p24

i have an Anthem LTX500 PJ that is capable of 1080p24?

could it be a sequencing problem i.e. changing resolutions on the fly?


mark


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Bob, thanks for the explanation
> 
> yes, i am using HDMI
> 
> i just did some more testing and set the Oppo to Digital Audio: Auto
> 
> i now get sound for both DVD & BD
> 
> the DD lights up for DVD, but for the BD disc, the Oppo says TrueHD, the D2v says 5.1 DolbyHD in the display, but the TrueHD light does not light up?
> 
> 
> i can't seem to get 1080p24 either, i set the Oppo to Auto & i had Video Config 1 set to 1080p60, i tried Auto, but still didn't get 1080p24
> 
> accordinng to the D2v the input from the Oppo is 1080p24
> 
> i have an Anthem LTX500 PJ that is capable of 1080p24?
> 
> could it be a sequencing problem i.e. changing resolutions on the fly?
> 
> 
> mark





Perhaps I'm missing something in an earlier post, but to get 1080p/24 to your projector, you must configure one of the D2v Video outputs to 1080p/24 and switch to that when you want to send a /24 resolution to the projector. I have tried to use the Frame Lock setting in the Video setup but seems to spurt and sputter enough to be annoying.


----------



## cosmos5861




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19243236
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call on Monday.
> 
> 
> You will likely need to use the Flash Eraser utility to reset the programmable parts in your AVM 50. Then retry the install.
> 
> 
> Are you sure your AVM 50 hardware was suitable for use with "test" V1.47f? I.e., have you checked to see whether your AVM 50 has a red colored video board or does NOT have the large, toroidal (donut shaped) transformer in its power supply?
> 
> 
> If not, there have been some previous reports where the recovery, after letting Flash Eraser do its thing, was to first install an older V1.28 version, and then install official V1.33 on top of that. Again, Anthem tech support can walk you through all of this.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I am not sure it it was suitable. I had the latest version 1.33 installed. I emailed Anthem support since i was have problems with my Mac Mini and got access to Anthem support files website. I do not know if i have a red colored video board. But I do not have the large transformer as power supply.


Is it possible for me to Flash Eraser myself instead of calling Tech Support on Monday. I have Flash Eraser v2.3 (AVM 20-HD and up) . I want to watch NFL tomorrow ;-)


Thank you


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19243201
> 
> 
> Note that the dedicated 2-channel analog outputs on the Oppo BDP-83 have a different reference voltage level than its multi-channel analog outputs. I can't recall whether it is higher or lower, but it is different.
> 
> 
> Oppo had a good reason for this, but since I don't use analog I don't recall what it was.



I took a look at the 2-ch outputs. Using a CD with 0 dBFS test tone, the output is 2.3 V, and it is the same level from the L/R of the 7.1 outputs (when set to output Mch audio). This is just 0.4 dB less than a 5.1 0 dBFS signal.


However, the levels are quite different when the player is applying stereo downmixing. This happens whenever a multichannel (i.e. 5.1) source is presented to the dedicated 2-ch outputs, or when the player's speaker setup menu is set to 2-ch downmix instead of 5.1 or 7.1. In this case, the outputs drop 8 dB, which is necessary to protect downmix buildup.


So let's say you have the player set up to output 5.1/7.1 analog, and you play a 5.1 disc, L-ch = 0 dBFS. You will get 2.4 V from the Mch L output, while from the stereo outputs the level will be 8 dB lower.


Now let's say you drop in a 2-ch CD with 0 dBFS tones. It will come out of the L/R Mch and the stereo outputs at the same 2.3 V.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/19244191
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I am not sure it it was suitable. I had the latest version 1.33 installed. I emailed Anthem support since i was have problems with my Mac Mini and got access to Anthem support files website. I do not know if i have a red colored video board. But I do not have the large transformer as power supply.
> 
> 
> Is it possible for me to Flash Eraser myself instead of calling Tech Support on Monday. I have Flash Eraser v2.3 (AVM 20-HD and up) . I want to watch NFL tomorrow ;-)
> 
> 
> Thank you



If you do NOT have the big donut in your power supply, then your AVM 50 is good for V1.47f regardless of the color of your video board.


Yes you can Flash Erase now.

--Bob


----------



## schlitzie

Does any one know if there is new version of the D2V (D3?) on the horizon? I am considering a 3D-capable display, but the HDMI 1.3 in the D2V won't be able to handle the data from 3D content (I understand it will require HDMI 1.4), so I'd have to figure out some workaround if I go that way... It'd be a whole lot easier and more elegant to have everything flow through a new Anthem if possible.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *schlitzie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does any one know if there is new version of the D2V (D3?) on the horizon? I am considering a 3D-capable display, but the HDMI 1.3 in the D2V won't be able to handle the data from 3D content (I understand it will require HDMI 1.4), so I'd have to figure out some workaround if I go that way... It'd be a whole lot easier and more elegant to have everything flow through a new Anthem if possible.



I know that a replacement HDMI board will very soon be available that will cost less than 1000$ and provide 4 out of 8 HDMI v.1.4 sockets.


----------



## schlitzie

Awesome -- thanks! Do you know if that is replaceable at home or does it have to back to Anthem?


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *schlitzie* /forum/post/19246080
> 
> 
> Awesome -- thanks! Do you know if that is replaceable at home or does it have to back to Anthem?



Since the answer I got was "Won't need factory return" I suppose it will be replaceable at home or at least via the distributor.


----------



## slots1

so bottom line seems to be no D3 for who knows how long, but just replacement parts to make it current. I thought their were other advances Anthem was going to put in a new processor, not just 1.4... Bob, any thoughts. I skipped the exchange and was waiting for a new D3. It will soon be 2 years since the D2v came out. I was hoping.

I still love my D2, but.... and of course no final firmware yet for the D2.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> so bottom line seems to be no D3 for who knows how long, but just replacement parts to make it current. I thought their were other advances Anthem was going to put in a new processor, not just 1.4... Bob, any thoughts. I skipped the exchange and was waiting for a new D3. It will soon be 2 years since the D2v came out. I was hoping.
> 
> I still love my D2, but.... and of course no final firmware yet for the D2.



Correct me if I'm wrong But one of the advantages to separates is the upgrade factor. Also a new hdmi board would have the necessary chip installed on it to process the 3d stream.


Don


----------



## Spridle1

I have a D-1 with v1.33 and ARC v2.0.1. What do I need to to do to upgrade to ARC 3.0? Trying to decide if the upgrade is worth the effort. Also, what differences in sound could I expect.


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spridle1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a D-1 with v1.33 and ARC v2.0.1. What do I need to to do to upgrade to ARC 3.0? Trying to decide if the upgrade is worth the effort. Also, what differences in sound could I expect.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Download the ARC V3.0 install kit. Unzipped it. Copy the pair of licensing/calibration files from your original ARC install disc to the downloaded stuff in the same folder as the Setup.Exe (installer) program.


Run Setup.Exe to install the new ARC Windows application. Reboot your PC.


Do a new ARC setup using the new app.


That's it.


Expect better bass and better mid-range correction.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19248337
> 
> 
> Do a new ARC setup using the new app.
> 
> 
> That's it.
> 
> 
> Expect better bass and better mid-range correction.
> 
> --Bob



+1 Bob


This new version is the best I have ever heard or felt, and the new subwoofer advanced adjustments are a very nice touch as well as the live sweeps !!!! Its really nice to see what your changes are doing in real time... Awesome Job Anthem... !!!


Manual settings / tools / quick measure


I would love to see the window of measurement and sweeps to go down to 10hz, at least you can get an idea of where and how fast your sub is rolling off. What better way to at least gauge what they are sporting for specs of their new subs.


From the soundstage review


> Quote:
> The Sub 2’s low-bass extension is claimed as 9Hz, with output capabilities of 97dB at 10Hz, 106dB at 20Hz, and 120dB at 60Hz, _all measured anechoically_. Remember that in-room levels, because of room gain, will typically be 12-15dB higher! Remind me to never listen to 20Hz at 121dB!



Everyone knows there is not really listnable material below 20hz but it would be really nice to see where the measurement is headed below 20 hz. For that great rumble effect...


There is a good deal of material down there in more and more movies these days, obviously a great effect for movie studios, and tons and tons of waterfalls measurements are proving it, as well as many subwoofer manufacturers are shooting for these projected responses in their designs and bragging about them...


I would like to think its a good next step for the direction of ARC, what do you guys think....


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19241859
> 
> 
> Yep that lines up well with my findings, next time keep nagging
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned, I found there is an overall level difference between the HDMI and 6-ch input of +2dB when running the OPPO BD83(may differ with different players), so a direct subwoofer channel comparison reveals a -3dB drop on the 6-ch input when compared to the HDMI. But when you compare with the main channels, due to the +2dB on the 6-ch input, there is a -5dB drop.
> 
> 
> So if you want to have an accurate level comparison when switching between HDMI and 6-ch you need to do 2 things:
> 
> 1. Increase the OPPO's subwoofer output by +5dB if no BM in the player, as Bob has detailed
> 
> 2. Decrease the D2v's 6-ch 'Analog Input Level' by -2dB
> 
> 
> This should give you near identical levels between HDMI and 6-ch analog input.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19242499
> 
> 
> Yes, that's the simple way.
> 
> But to get levels correct to reference you'll either have to also reduce the analog input level for 6-ch by -2dB or reduce all levels in the OPPO by -2dB(ie mains -2dB, sub +3dB)



MACCA350:


Pardon me but I'm now confused on how to resolve the Oppo output level differences between its HDMI and analog outs.


Do I have to change levels in both the Oppo AND D2v/50v or can I just change it in the Oppo as the first quote?



Thanks,

David


----------



## myc52002

D2v sub outputs. I know the main outs are rated as a max of 6.3 volts but is it capable of passing much higher voltages on particularly hot LFE scenes on the sub outs? I ask because I have a sub amp that is shutting down due to input signal overload on really hot LFE scenes rather than the amp output overloading. No need to go into details at the moment, I just know that is the issue. Not sure if I have a problem with the amp so I am starting with whether the D2v is even capable of outputting more than I think. Thanks


----------



## dmusoke




jayray said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19241746
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I observed and posted this same issue in both Oppo 83/83SE forums about a week ago and was almost laughed out of town. I had observed a 3-4db difference on my RS meter between the subwoofer outputs when switching HDMI and the analog MCH outputs. I was using the latest beta FW. So, I switched back to the official and still measured and observed the same thing. I was using the Pentatone SACD for my subwoofer tests.
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> There is no shortage of stubbornness on the AVS forum. Ultimately one has to develop a tough skin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tough to argue with people who ausio systems cost half of my annual salary
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . As I said, I just let it drop considering that more experienced folks would have already caught this mistake. Hence my observation would have to be wrong. In hindsight, you're right. I should have stuck to my guns
Click to expand...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> MACCA350:
> 
> 
> Pardon me but I'm now confused on how to resolve the Oppo output level differences between its HDMI and analog outs.
> 
> 
> Do I have to change levels in both the Oppo AND D2v/50v or can I just change it in the Oppo as the first quote?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



Just change in the Oppo. +5dB on the sub. All speakers Large. That's all you need unless you also care about equalizing the analog and HDMI levels (no big deal since you are going to be doing volume adjustment anyway).


Even this Oppo change is not needed if you use HDMI audio.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> MACCA350:
> 
> 
> Pardon me but I'm now confused on how to resolve the Oppo output level differences between its HDMI and analog outs.
> 
> 
> Do I have to change levels in both the Oppo AND D2v/50v or can I just change it in the Oppo as the first quote?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



You could do it either way, the main thing is to make the +5dB subwoofer adjustment in the OPPO. The second part is simply to correct the OPPO's analog output levels so they match HDMI to ensure reference level is correct for the analog input.


You can do this two ways, doesn't really make much difference which you choose, either drop all levels in the OPPO by -2dB(ensuring you keep that +5dB disparity on the sub channel) OR drop the 6-ch 'Analog Input Level' in the D2v by -2dB.


Cheers


----------



## Milt99




dmusoke said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19242518
> 
> 
> Tough to argue with people who ausio systems cost half of my annual salary
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . As I said, I just let it drop considering that more experienced folks would have already caught this mistake. Hence my observation would have to be wrong. In hindsight, you're right. I should have stuck to my guns
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's easy to be intimidated regarding stuff like this but trust me, most of the time open-mindedness is inversely proportional to system cost.
> 
> It's easy to confuse experience with invested ego
Click to expand...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19248579
> 
> 
> Just change in the Oppo. +5dB on the sub. All speakers Large. That's all you need unless you also care about equalizing the analog and HDMI levels (no big deal since you are going to be doing volume adjustment anyway).
> 
> 
> Even this Oppo change is not needed if you use HDMI audio.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob:


I care lots about EQ'ing the analog and HDMI levels as i often switch between these two outputs from my Oppo SE. Still like to hear the difference the ESS dacs bring to the table







.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19248598
> 
> 
> You could do it either way, the main thing is to make the +5dB subwoofer adjustment in the OPPO. The second part is simply to correct the OPPO's analog output levels so they match HDMI to ensure reference level is correct for the analog input.
> 
> 
> You can do this two ways, doesn't really make much difference which you choose, either drop all levels in the OPPO by -2dB(ensuring you keep that +5dB disparity on the sub channel) OR drop the 6-ch 'Analog Input Level' in the D2v by -2dB.
> 
> 
> Cheers



So , i now have now set the sub trim to +3dB and all others to -2dB in the Oppo and speakers set to large. Am i correct in doing this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob:
> 
> 
> I care lots about EQ'ing the analog and HDMI levels as i often switch between these two outputs from my Oppo SE. Still like to hear the difference the ESS dacs bring to the table
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> So , i now have now set the sub trim to +3dB and all others to -2dB in the Oppo and speakers set to large. Am i correct in doing this?



Yes.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:


A while back, you recommended to a poster to setthe Oppo SACD settings to PCM since th D2v/50v can't decode DSD streams(?). What should the setting be for us who listen to both HDMI and analog MCH for the ESS DACs have a DSD decoder, so one can go from DSD to Analog out directly, w/o the intermediary LCM step?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19248642
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks much







!


Fired off an e-mail to Oppo. Not sure if others in the forum have done so, but if you've observed this problem, please let Oppo know as well. I dont want to be the only nut (







) asking for a resolution to this problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> A while back, you recommended to a poster to setthe Oppo SACD settings to PCM since th D2v/50v can't decode DSD streams(?). What should the setting be for us who listen to both HDMI and analog MCH for the ESS DACs have a DSD decoder, so one can go from DSD to Analog out directly, w/o the intermediary LCM step?



There's no one setting that will do this. When you want to do this over analog you must set the Oppo SACD Audio out to DSD and set HDMI Audio Out to OFF.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19248769
> 
> 
> There's no one setting that will do this. When you want to do this over analog you must set the Oppo SACD Audio out to DSD and set HDMI Audio Out to OFF.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks again...


Now on all things Anthem, I was trying to recalibrate my system with the ARC 3.0 beta and found that I need to have the Test Level set at +8dB in order to get a 75dB reference level from my LF speaker using my RS meter (with a fresh new battery). All other parameters are set to zero. Anthem volume level set to -10 dB.


This is a much higher level than i recall in the official version 2.4 release. What could be wrong?


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks to Bob and Macca for the Oppo settings. I uploaded ARC with a change to the gain setting to 2.5 and my mains to 80hz and together with the Oppo trims now set correctly , I can now report that the sytsem sounds fantastic and the bass is how I remember it when I had the SVS AS-EQ in the chain. At least I have a system that sounds great until my replacement D2v arrives.


----------



## erikno

Anyone experiencing this meesage from Anthem?

_"Database Error: Unable to connect to the database:Could not connect to MySQL"_


erikno


----------



## Warpdrv

Yeah their website was down yesterday too


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19248817
> 
> 
> Thanks again...
> 
> 
> Now on all things Anthem, I was trying to recalibrate my system with the ARC 3.0 beta and found that I need to have the Test Level set at +8dB in order to get a 75dB reference level from my LF speaker using my RS meter (with a fresh new battery). All other parameters are set to zero. Anthem volume level set to -10 dB.
> 
> 
> This is a much higher level than i recall in the official version 2.4 release. What could be wrong?



Setting of the Test Level to 75db is a process required prior to running ARC and is not influenced by ARC. Try saving your USER settings then load FACTORY DEFAULTS and check the level. If it is higher, reload your USER settings and make sure that your set EQ to off in the AM/FM source settings...then try again.


----------



## erikno

ANTHEM IS ONLINE AGAIN!










But the ARC is still 2.4....










Thougth perhaps that the downtime was due to new software...


erikno


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/19251220
> 
> 
> ANTHEM IS ONLINE AGAIN!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the ARC is still 2.4....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thougth perhaps that the downtime was due to new software...
> 
> 
> erikno



Remember, the boys have been at CEDIA, it shouldn't be too much longer.

John


----------



## runnerlk

While calibrating I set my music config to no subwoofer since I never want sub in my music. After upload, music sounded muffled,quiet and lacked detail. checking the response cutoffs i noticed that all except the 7.1 surrounds were significantly less. COuld this be the issue??


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19241983
> 
> 
> I concur. I played a DD test tone (not from the same disc as before, MACCA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) recorded at 0dBFS, and the Oppo outputs 2.4 Vrms, which is 1.6 dB higher than the nominal 2Vrms level normally associated with digital converters. The A-D in the Anthem is probably set to roughly 2V, so it all correlates perfectly with what is being reported about the 2 dB offset.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19242102
> 
> 
> Nice, so you've confirmed this is due to the OPPO output levels being slightly higher than the standard(though well within the 5.3Vrms max tolerance of the D2v.....btw rated input is 2.0Vrms as you suggested), which means this difference may not be present or may be a different level with other players.
> 
> 
> I suppose one could just make all the adjustments in the OPPO(ie drop main channels by -2dB and increase sub channel by +3dB) since it's the culprit.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Roger & MACCA350:


Here's the response i've just received from Oppo:

David,


We have confirmed with our engineering group that the reports on the forums are not a problem. The difference between the SUBWOOFER output of the 7.1ch analog jacks and the LFE channel of the HDMI multi-channel signal is by design and meets the requirements of Dolby Digital specifications. The player passed both Dolby and DTS certifications.


First, please note the different names of the signal. The analog output is called SUBWOOFER while the digital output is called the LFE channel. The Dolby specification titled "Dolby Licensee Information Manual: Dolby Digital Consumer Decoder" has a section (Chapter 4 section 4.7.1 Bass Management Fundamentals) that clarifies "LFE does not equal Subwoofer".


The HDMI multi-channel output is the original program on the disc. If the LFE signal is encoded at 0dBFS in the content, the HDMI output will have a 0dBFS LFE channel level.


The analog output implements the "Bass Management Configuration 1 (figure 4-10)" of the above Dolby specification. The behavior is as the followings:


When all speakers are set to large and the subwoofer is set to ON, the L, C, R, LS, RS channels are sent to the analog output without filtering and level adjustment. The LFE channel is attenuated 5dB (-5dB gain) and sent to the SUBWOOFER output.


When a main speaker is set to small, its bass signal is attenuated 15dB and then mixed with the attenuated LFE signal to become the SUBWOOFER output. Its corresponding main channel output is the original signal filtered by a high pass filter to block the bass. There is no level adjustment to the main channel.


Based on this implementation, if all main speakers are set to large and subwoofer set to ON, when a user tests the channel levels with a program source that has 0dBFS level in all channels, the SUBWOOFER output will be 5dB lower than the main channels via the analog 7.1ch output.


Should the user desires to maintain the same output level for all analog jacks, the subwoofer level trim function can be used. However this is not recommended. According to the above Dolby specification, in section 4.9.2 for "System Gain Structure", it says "The decision was made to not require the subwoofer gain stage in the DVD player and to require it in the host product. This decision was based on the fact that Source products have fixed maximum output levels and the fact that leaving the subwoofer signal scaled down 15dB helps keep those maximum signal levels at reasonable and comparable levels". Here "host product" refers to amplifiers and A/V receivers. The "scaled down 15dB reference" is there because in addition to the -5dB gain in the DVD player, the content program production guideline requires the LFE channel to be 10dB lower than the other channels.


As for the difference of output level between HDMI and MCH analog, it is caused by the different reference output voltage. The BDP-83's MCH analog output reference level is 2.4Vrms for 0dBFS. If an A/V receiver product uses 2Vrms for 0dBFS, the analog output converted from its HDMI input will be lower than the BDP-83's analog output. We selected the slightly higher reference level to fully utilize the dynamic range that the hardware can offer.


Best Regards,


Customer Service

OPPO Digital, Inc.

2629B Terminal Blvd.

Mountain View, CA 94043
[email protected] 

Tel: 650-961-1118

Fax: 650-961-1119


So apparently, the problem is with Anthems lower maximum reference levels of 2Vrms versus Oppo's 2.4Vrms. Does this mean I need to reset the Oppo trims back to zero and increase the analog input levels by +2dB in the Anthem menu screen?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/19253071
> 
> 
> While calibrating I set my music config to no subwoofer since I never want sub in my music. After upload, music sounded muffled,quiet and lacked detail. checking the response cutoffs i noticed that all except the 7.1 surrounds were significantly less. COuld this be the issue??



Post the charts. You can select the Music charts in the View menu of the ARC application.


But keep in mind that with no subwoofer to support the low end of each speaker it is normal for ARC to try to use the speakers further down -- thus a lower cutoff for them.


----------------------------


Check that you have Room EQ turned ON for each Source using the Music configuration. And if the audio input is Analog, remember that you must use ANALOG-DSP for the Source so that the audio can be digitized and processed via ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19253163
> 
> 
> Roger & MACCA350:
> 
> 
> Here's the response i've just received from Oppo:
> 
> David,
> 
> 
> We have confirmed with our engineering group that the reports on the forums are not a problem. The difference between the SUBWOOFER output of the 7.1ch analog jacks and the LFE channel of the HDMI multi-channel signal is by design and meets the requirements of Dolby Digital specifications. The player passed both Dolby and DTS certifications.
> 
> 
> First, please note the different names of the signal. The analog output is called SUBWOOFER while the digital output is called the LFE channel. The Dolby specification titled "Dolby Licensee Information Manual: Dolby Digital Consumer Decoder" has a section (Chapter 4 section 4.7.1 Bass Management Fundamentals) that clarifies "LFE does not equal Subwoofer".
> 
> 
> The HDMI multi-channel output is the original program on the disc. If the LFE signal is encoded at 0dBFS in the content, the HDMI output will have a 0dBFS LFE channel level.
> 
> 
> The analog output implements the "Bass Management Configuration 1 (figure 4-10)" of the above Dolby specification. The behavior is as the followings:
> 
> 
> When all speakers are set to large and the subwoofer is set to ON, the L, C, R, LS, RS channels are sent to the analog output without filtering and level adjustment. The LFE channel is attenuated 5dB (-5dB gain) and sent to the SUBWOOFER output.
> 
> 
> When a main speaker is set to small, its bass signal is attenuated 15dB and then mixed with the attenuated LFE signal to become the SUBWOOFER output. Its corresponding main channel output is the original signal filtered by a high pass filter to block the bass. There is no level adjustment to the main channel.
> 
> 
> Based on this implementation, if all main speakers are set to large and subwoofer set to ON, when a user tests the channel levels with a program source that has 0dBFS level in all channels, the SUBWOOFER output will be 5dB lower than the main channels via the analog 7.1ch output.
> 
> 
> Should the user desires to maintain the same output level for all analog jacks, the subwoofer level trim function can be used. However this is not recommended. According to the above Dolby specification, in section 4.9.2 for "System Gain Structure", it says "The decision was made to not require the subwoofer gain stage in the DVD player and to require it in the host product. This decision was based on the fact that Source products have fixed maximum output levels and the fact that leaving the subwoofer signal scaled down 15dB helps keep those maximum signal levels at reasonable and comparable levels". Here "host product" refers to amplifiers and A/V receivers. The "scaled down 15dB reference" is there because in addition to the -5dB gain in the DVD player, the content program production guideline requires the LFE channel to be 10dB lower than the other channels.
> 
> 
> As for the difference of output level between HDMI and MCH analog, it is caused by the different reference output voltage. The BDP-83's MCH analog output reference level is 2.4Vrms for 0dBFS. If an A/V receiver product uses 2Vrms for 0dBFS, the analog output converted from its HDMI input will be lower than the BDP-83's analog output. We selected the slightly higher reference level to fully utilize the dynamic range that the hardware can offer.
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> 
> Customer Service
> 
> OPPO Digital, Inc.
> 
> 2629B Terminal Blvd.
> 
> Mountain View, CA 94043
> [email protected]
> 
> Tel: 650-961-1118
> 
> Fax: 650-961-1119
> 
> 
> So apparently, the problem is with Anthems lower maximum reference levels of 2Vrms versus Oppo's 2.4Vrms. Does this mean I need to reset the Oppo trims back to zero and increase the analog input levels by +2dB in the Anthem menu screen?



No. It is two separate issues. They are putting the onus on the Dolby spec -- Roger can you confirm they are reading that spec correctly?


"Standard" LFE for a Source which is not doing bass management is 10dB down, not 15dB down. If Dolby is recommending 15dB down they are going against pretty much what every AVR with multi-channel inputs expects as far as I know for the case where the Source is not doing bass management.


As long as you have all speakers set to Large in the Oppo, its "subwoofer" output should have the headroom to carry LFE that is really only 10dB down. Which means you can do the boost in the Oppo.


The 2.4 volt vs 2.0 volt is a separate issue. Oppo is saying 2.4 volt preserves more dynamic range in the output. That's a design choice, not an error. To preserve that design choice, if you want to, you must not lower the output levels in the Oppo. But that means analog and HDMI are seen at different levels in the D2v.


So you can fix both of these by +5dB volume trim in the Oppo for the subwoofer output and -2dB analog input level trim in the D2v for the 6 channel analog input. Whether the D2v can still preserve the dynamic range when the analog input is trimmed down like that is something I can't answer. You could of course live with the 2dB analog vs. HDMI level difference (equal on all channels after making the +5dB subwoofer output change in the Oppo as just stated) and avoid that question, which would be my recommendation. I.e., JUST do the +5dB subwoofer volume trim in the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19253227
> 
> 
> No. It is two separate issues. They are putting the onus on the Dolby spec -- Roger can you confirm they are reading that spec correctly?
> 
> 
> "Standard" LFE for a Source which is not doing bass management is 10dB down, not 15dB down. If Dolby is recommending 15dB down they are going against pretty much what every AVR with multi-channel inputs expects as far as I know for the case where the Source is not doing bass management.
> 
> 
> As long as you have all speakers set to Large in the Oppo, its "subwoofer" output should have the headroom to carry LFE that is really only 10dB down. Which means you can do the boost in the Oppo.
> 
> 
> The 2.4 volt vs 2.0 volt is a separate issue. Oppo is saying 2.4 volt preserves more dynamic range in the output. That's a design choice, not an error. To preserve that design choice, if you want to, you must not lower the output levels in the Oppo. But that means analog and HDMI are seen at different levels in the D2v.
> 
> 
> So you can fix both of these by +5dB volume trim in the Oppo for the subwoofer output and -2dB analog input level trim in the D2v for the 6 channel analog input. Whether the D2v can still preserve the dynamic range when the analog input is trimmed down like that is something I can't answer. You could of course live with the analog vs. HDMI level difference and avoid that question, which would be my recommendation. I.e., JUST do the +5dB subwoofer volume trim in the Oppo.
> 
> --Bob



OK...will comply as you suggested originally with level EQ. Passing up not to EQ is too much of a temptation







. On the Dolby level definition, I think they said the -15dB attenuation is for the small speaker setting and not the large setting, if i read their mail correctly.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here's the critical quote:



> Quote:
> When all speakers are set to large and the subwoofer is set to ON, the L, C, R, LS, RS channels are sent to the analog output without filtering and level adjustment. The LFE channel is attenuated 5dB (-5dB gain) and sent to the SUBWOOFER output.



That's 5dB additional down from the -10dB already in place by design for LFE content. That's what I disagree with. I don't think LFE should be attenuated further at all in this specific case.


They are claiming this is appropriate because the Oppo output is a "subwoofer" output and not an "LFE" output. But AVRs that expect to do bass management themselves on multi-channel analog input are, I believe, pretty much across the board expecting what comes in on that cable to be 10dB down, not 15dB, regardless of the name used on the output jack.


Again, I'm hoping Roger can confirm or refute Oppo's reading of the Dolby recommendations here.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> So you can fix both of these by +5dB volume trim in the Oppo for the subwoofer output and -2dB analog input level trim in the D2v for the 6 channel analog input. Whether the D2v can still preserve the dynamic range when the analog input is trimmed down like that is something I can't answer. You could of course live with the analog vs. HDMI level difference and avoid that question, which would be my recommendation. I.e., JUST do the +5dB subwoofer volume trim in the Oppo.
> 
> --Bob



Boy is this getting confusing. I'm reading 2 different approaches here so forgive me if I have misread or interpreted whats been said. Currently I have all speakers set to Large with -2db trim and +3 just for the subwoofer in the Oppo, using the 6.1 analog outs. The Anthem is set to 0 for Analog. Is this correct? Bob and Macca your also mentioned that we JUST need to adjust the sub trim only to +5 in the Oppo?


What is the correct and final setting we need to implement for those that are using Oppo's analog stage connected to the Anthem A2v. Apologies for going over old ground but reading the last page suggest 2 differnet approaches....+3db and/or +5db for the Sub.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19253330
> 
> 
> Boy is this getting confusing. I'm reading 2 different approaches here so forgive me if I have misread or interpreted whats been said. Currently I have all speakers set to Large with -2db trim and +3 just for the subwoofer in the Oppo, using the 6.1 analog outs. The Anthem is set to 0 for Analog. Is this correct? Bob and Macca your also mentioned that we JUST need to adjust the sub trim only to +5 in the Oppo?
> 
> 
> What is the correct and final setting we need to implement for those that are using Oppo's analog stage connected to the Anthem A2v. Apologies for going over old ground but reading the last page suggest 2 differnet approaches....+3db and/or +5db for the Sub.



Reread what I just posted.


You have to boost the Oppo's LFE output by 5dB. I recommend you do that in the player.


If, and ONLY IF, you care about "fixing" the 2dB level difference between the analog and HDMI audio then you must go further. Oppo states that is in there to allow for more dynamic range in their analog output. So to preserve that design choice do not do the attenuation in the Oppo. Thus the only change in the Oppo is the +5dB subwoofer output volume trim.


Meanwhile in the D2v you can lower the analog input level for the 6-channel analog input by 2dB and achieve that attenuation so that analog and HDMI result in the same output volume. I don't know whether you will lose the dynamic range the Oppo was trying to preserve if you do so, but if this convenience is important to you, that's how you adjust it.


Personally, I would not bother about getting analog and HDMI levels matched. And so the ONLY change would be the +5dB subwoofer output volume trim in the Oppo. No adjustments at all in the D2v.


That will yield proper balance on all channels of the analog input, but the analog (all channels equally) will be 2dB louder than the same content played on the HDMI input.


-------------------------------------


Keep in mind, I still think Oppo has this 5dB LFE/subwoofer issue wrong. Stay tuned.


As stated above, the entirely separate 2dB issue is a design choice on Oppo's part. Not an error.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19253355
> 
> 
> Reread what I just posted.
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, I still think Oppo has this 5dB LFE/subwoofer issue wrong. Stay tuned.
> 
> 
> As stated above, the entirely separate 2dB issue is a design choice on Oppo's part. Not an error.
> 
> --Bob



On a very minor note, the 2dB difference is actually about 1.6dB or 20*log(2.4V/2.0V) . Hence its more precise to reduce the level by 1.5dB, correct? The original 2dB was just an estimate I believe.


----------



## Dewboy3

How do you go about downloading ARC 3.0 Beta version?

Thanks

Dewboy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> On a very minor note, the 2dB difference is actually about 1.6dB or 20*log(2.4V/2.0V) . Hence its more precise to reduce the level by 1.5dB, correct? The original 2dB was just an estimate I believe.



It's a wise child!










(Seriously. I'd have to use a calculator for that. Or at least a table of log values. Where did I put that slide rule.)


Again, call me reactionary, but the whole idea of precisely matching analog and HDMI volumes has precious little value in my opinion.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dewboy3* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you go about downloading ARC 3.0 Beta version?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Dewboy



Send an email to Anthem tech support asking for the access info. I'm not trying to be difficult. It's no big secret, but Anthem has asked us not to post the access info here.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19253355
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, I still think Oppo has this 5dB LFE/subwoofer issue wrong. Stay tuned.



I heard back today, and Oppo confirms it works as we found, the LFE channel is at -5 dB regardless of speaker setting. But they said this is how Dolby instructed them to do it. So now I'm checking with some friends at Dolby to see about that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I heard back today, and Oppo confirms it works as we found, the LFE channel is at -5 dB regardless of speaker setting. But they said this is how Dolby instructed them to do it. So now I'm checking with some friends at Dolby to see about that.



You see? Normally I would expect DTS to be behind confusion like this.









--Bob


----------



## tbailey

Longtime lurker first time poster in this most informative thread. To those who have contributed thank you all, but especially to Bob "The Man" Pariseau. I could not imagine how many Anthem products have been sold because of this thread. Mine for one.


My question is are there any issues loading ARC 3.0 with the original D2 with v1.33 software, green video board and toroidal transformer?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbailey* /forum/post/19254278
> 
> 
> Longtime lurker first time poster in this most informative thread. To those who have contributed thank you all, but especially to Bob "The Man" Pariseau. I could not imagine how many Anthem products have been sold because of this thread. Mine for one.
> 
> 
> My question is are there any issues loading ARC 3.0 with the original D2 with v1.33 software, green video board and toroidal transformer?



None. Enjoy.


If your prior version of ARC is really old, be aware that for quite some time now, ARC gets installed into a different folder than was originally used. This will only affect you if you expect the pair of licensing/calibration files to survive from the prior install.


You can avoid having to care about this by copying those two files from your original ARC install disc into the ARC kit you downloaded -- into the same folder as the Setup.exe program (the installer) prior to the install. The installer will copy them to where they need to be.


These two files are easy to spot. The have names made up of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC mic.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On a very minor note, the 2dB difference is actually about 1.6dB or 20*log(2.4V/2.0V) . Hence its more precise to reduce the level by 1.5dB, correct? The original 2dB was just an estimate I believe.



More precise to bring the OPPO's analog outputs in line with industry standard, but not necessarily more precise when level matching the entire chain of the system.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Again, call me reactionary, but the whole idea of precisely matching analog and HDMI volumes has precious little value in my opinion.
> 
> --Bob



I guess it depends on how you value the issue. Being a calibrator I probably place more value on this than others










Here's a couple of points I'd add in addition to ensuring correct reference levels:

1. If someone wants to compare the qualities of using analog or HDMI through listening evaluation, level matching is essential(usually within 0.1dB) to ensure a fair comparison.

2. Though there's little literature on how Dolby Volume Cinema Reference actually works, I believe it is similar to Audyssey's Dynamic Eq/Vol in that they apply adjustments based on where the volume control is set in relation to reference level. So if reference is not accurately set for sources their implementation will be inaccurate.

3. Sure we're talking a relatively small adjustment. Would it be more of an issue if the variation were say 10dB? If so, then I guess the issue isn't about the fact there is a variation, but the level of that variation. Given the general 0.5dB level adjustment accuracy in electronics I'd suggest that's our aim.


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I heard back today, and Oppo confirms it works as we found, the LFE channel is at -5 dB regardless of speaker setting. But they said this is how Dolby instructed them to do it. So now I'm checking with some friends at Dolby to see about that.



That's quite strange Rodger, maybe there was a miscommunication somewhere along the lines










Cheers


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19253809
> 
> 
> I heard back today, and Oppo confirms it works as we found, the LFE channel is at -5 dB regardless of speaker setting. But they said this is how Dolby instructed them to do it. So now I'm checking with some friends at Dolby to see about that.



Roger,


Thanks for the help you provide in all things Dolby in this forum(







), considering you own an excellent Classe prepro and not an Anthem processor at all







!


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19254657
> 
> 
> That's quite strange Rodger, maybe there was a miscommunication somewhere along the lines



That's what I'm hoping.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19254804
> 
> 
> Roger,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help you provide in all things Dolby in this forum(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), considering you own an excellent Classe prepro and not an Anthem processor at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !



Thanks!


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19253227
> 
> 
> They are putting the onus on the Dolby spec -- Roger can you confirm they are reading that spec correctly?



Back in 2000 when this Dolby Digital manual was written (by myself and another chap







), the idea of digitizing analog outputs was pretty remote. The way around that was to stream the DD bits into the AVR. The AVRs and processors without DD decoders had, at best, a 5.1 analog bypass input straight to the volume control. Based on that, Dolby's manual concentrated on bass management options for processors, players, and outboard decoders (25 pages worth). Every product was required to perform bass management in some form. Config 1 as Oppo cites is where all channels = small.


There is no Config 1 where the speakers are set to large. However, the manual elsewhere does state it was permissible to turn off bass management, and since the worst case subwoofer output happens when all channels are set to small, there is no need to change the gain structure to protect the outputs from overload when some or all of the channels are set to large. One can argue that it is better NOT to change the sub path gain with changes to the large/small settings, so that users can try different settings and hear the differences without the sub gain changing, too.


Based on that, one can conclude that it is OK to leave the LFE gain path at -5dB all the time. However, that manual was for DD, and in the past 10 years, a lot has happened: 7.1 channels, HD video, lossless audio, HDMI. This issue of analog vs digital and harmonizing their relationship has come up and been discussed on many occasions, and product makers have been advised how to handle it more optimally. But since non-bass management is "optional," there would still be no hard requirement.


Bottom line, the Oppo player's bass management appears to meet Dolby requirements just fine. And since the hardware has the Sub output trim that can apply +5dB when needed, it can indeed match the analog and digital outputs for those users who need that.


One of two actions might be nice on Oppo's part: 1) mention in the manual (and the CSRs) that when not using bass management, it is permissible to raise the Sub output trim by 5 dB to match digital signals. Or 2) change the product to offset the Sub output automatically when bass management is turned off. It's really up to Oppo to decide which path causes the minimum headaches. Neither solution it 100% bulletproof as far avoiding confusion is concerned. User care is required in either case. And once our friend's D2V is repaired, he can go back to HDMI and forget this whole miniseries.


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks Roger.So in short do I need to change anything in the Oppo settings? Do I leave the speakers set to large and trims to "0" including the sub now?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19255168
> 
> 
> Thanks Roger.So in short do I need to change anything in the Oppo settings? Do I leave the speakers set to large and trims to "0" including the sub now?



As Bob and MACCA350 said, leave them all = large and set sub gain to +5, then the overall channel balances will be exactly correct.


Since you do not have working HDMI (IIRC) the 1.6 dB level difference is not present.


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks so much for that Roger. Yes can't wait to get my replacement unit with working HDMI.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This is a D2v thread, so not really the place to dive down into the rabbit hole of Oppo's player design choices, but I continue to believe that it is a mistake for Oppo to attenuate analog LFE the additional 5dB when all speakers are set to Large in the player, and I've told them so.


1) The Dolby spec they are relying on was written for a different world; before it became common for decent AVRs to offer good bass management even for their multi-channel analog audio inputs. Thanks to Roger for the history on that.


2) It is my understanding that the factory default behavior of all of the major brand AVRs is to boost analog LFE input by 10dB -- not 15dB. Some AVRs give the user the ability to change this, but 10dB boost is the DEFAULT.


3) The guiding principle for player design should be to not alter the content coming off disc, without user instruction, unless there is a good reason. In the case where bass steering is happening in the player (i.e., some speakers set to Small) there *IS* a good reason: To avoid clipping the now newly combined "subwoofer" output of LFE plus steered bass. But in the case where bass steering is OFF in the player (all speakers Large and sub enabled), there is no good reason to attenuate LFE.


So attenuating the LFE an additional 5dB in that case (all speakers Large) is an unnecessary design choice, and I believe it adds more confusion than it eliminates -- as well as altering the content coming off disc when you don't have to.

**********************************************************

For Anthem prepro owners, the player design debate is irrelevant. All you really need to know is what to do to get the audio "right".*


If you use HDMI audio (or optical audio) from the Oppo BDP-83 you don't need to do anything.


If you use the multi-channel analog audio from the Oppo, be aware that its "subwoofer" output needs to be boosted by 15dB compared to the other analog channels REGARDLESS of whether or not you have all speakers set to Large in the Oppo.


The recommended way to use the Oppo is to set all speakers to Large in the Oppo and to set the 6-channel input of the Anthem to ANALOG-DSP so that this input gets redigitized and processed by ARC. The Anthem + ARC will handle the bass management (and more) so the player does not need to do it. *Set this way, the Anthem will already provide 10dB of the required 15dB boost.*


My recommendation is that you get the remaining 5dB boost by telling the Oppo to do it. That is, set the subwoofer output of the Oppo to +5dB volume trim -- again, with all speakers set to Large in the Oppo.


As a separate item, the analog input from the Oppo (all channels) is 1.6dB higher than the Anthem expects. This is *ONLY* a problem if you care about matching analog and HDMI audio volume levels. To match analog and HDMI you need to attenuate the Oppo's analog audio by 1.6dB (all channels equally). My recommendation, *IF YOU CARE ABOUT THIS*, is that you do this adjustment in the Anthem's analog input level adjustment -- i.e., in Setup > Analog Input Levels for the 6-channel analog input. Use -1.5dB trim (the closest you can get).


Note that if you use BOTH HDMI and multi-channel analog audio from the Oppo, you can make these changes to correct the multi-channel analog audio without it having any impact whatsoever on the HDMI audio. The volume trims in the Oppo don't alter its HDMI output, and the input level trim in the Anthem only alters that one specific analog input.
*************************************************************


For best multi-channel analog audio from the Oppo, there are a few other settings you should make in the player when using ANALOG-DSP in the Anthem. The complete set of player settings would be as follows:


1) All speakers set to Large, subwoofer set to ON.


2) All speakers set to 0dB volume trim except for the subwoofer, which should be set to +5dB.


3) All speakers set to the same distance -- any distance will do so long as they are all the same.


4) Down mix set to 5.1


Again, all of these Oppo settings only alter the multi-channel analog output of the Oppo. HDMI audio in particular is not affected.


--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Bob,


I suppose this +5dB bass correction at the Oppo end applies to SACD analog output as well. And the alternative is to set Oppo's SACD output to LPCM over HDMI connection to the D2v.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/19257169
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I suppose this +5dB bass correction at the Oppo end applies to SACD analog output as well. And the alternative is to set Oppo's SACD output to LPCM over HDMI connection to the D2v.
> 
> 
> Ben



Yes to both. Keep in mind that many multi-channel SACDs don't actually have any content on the LFE channel. They put all their bass in the main speaker channels. (Bass steering is what gets it to the sub.) So you may not notice a difference depending on the disc you play.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19257218
> 
> 
> Yes to both. Keep in mind that many multi-channel SACDs don't actually have any content on the LFE channel. They put all their bass in the main speaker channels. (Bass steering is what gets it to the sub.) So you may not notice a difference depending on the disc you play.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob.


----------



## daren_p

While I didn't do any actual "testing", I too noticed that the sub output while watching movies via the analog outputs seemed weak (Oppo BDP83-SE source). I had just been adding +5 to 7db via the D1 sub output to compensate, as this seemed about right by ear. I've now added the +5db in the Oppo.


I have come across a couple other issues, I've been using the analog outs for both Blue Ray (for HD audio) & also with std DVD's (do have the optical hooked up as well but haven't been using it). While I haven't done any actual measurments, I've noticed the Blueray disks to be much louder with the volume knob in the same position vs a DVD? Is this normal or is there anything I can do about this? (dynamic range control was previously turned to auto but have since switched it to off)


My other question is in regards to the analog input levels setting in the D1. It says to adjust the bar graph (when using DSP), so that the level generally stays out of the pink section (I believe this means something like 6db of headroom left). When I do this, using a reg CD for the test, I need to reduce the levels to about -8db just to get it to go in & out of the pink colour (reduce even further if I want it to basically stay green most of the time). Is it normal to have to reduce the inputs this low with the OPPO? If I don't reduce them by this much will I actually be reducing the headroom or dynamic range?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19257218
> 
> 
> Yes to both. Keep in mind that many multi-channel SACDs don't actually have any content on the LFE channel. They put all their bass in the main speaker channels. (Bass steering is what gets it to the sub.) So you may not notice a difference depending on the disc you play.
> 
> --Bob



One additional issue is that some SACDs not only include an LFE channel, but have recorded it 10 dB louder than on movie discs. This means you now have to attenuate the LFE by 10 dB for those discs. Total PITA. No easy way to tell other than by listening. If the bass is overabundant, or even muddy, try the -10dB.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19257677
> 
> 
> One additional issue is that some SACDs not only include an LFE channel, but have recorded it 10 dB louder than on movie discs. This means you now have to attenuate the LFE by 10 dB for those discs. Total PITA. No easy way to tell other than by listening. If the bass is overabundant, or even muddy, try the -10dB.



For SACDs that have any LFE content at all, the "normal" state of affairs is that this LFE is recorded at 0dB rather than at -10dB. This is because it is supposed to be carrying music instead of high volume bass effects. Kind of silly really, since they could just as well put all that bass in the main speaker channels.


However it is apparently the case that the Oppo applies a special -10dB attenuation to LFE from SACD so that the level actually matches without you having to do anything additional in the Oppo output or in the D2v. I.e., if it works for movies then it works for SACD.


So the only problem is if you happen to encounter a rare SACD which not only has real content on the LFE channel, but also has it recorded at -10dB to pretend it is a movie disc with explosions and such.


The -10dB attenuation for SACD LFE provided in the Oppo might adversely affect the noise floor for LFE, but at those frequencies this is not really an issue.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19257851
> 
> 
> However it is apparently the case that the Oppo applies a special -10dB attenuation to LFE from SACD so that the level actually matches without you having to do anything additional in the Oppo output or in the D2v. I.e., if it works for movies then it works for SACD.



Is this for the analog outputs only or for both? My BDP-83 does not do that, but I'm using the DSD-PCM converted outputs via HDMI.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19258116
> 
> 
> Is this for the analog outputs only or for both? My BDP-83 does not do that, but I'm using the DSD-PCM converted outputs via HDMI.



The PCM on the Oppo HDMI LFE output should be -10dB for SACD. It is in the tests I've done. That is, the standard +10dB boost the D2v applies for movie HDMI LFE LPCM input works with the HDMI PCM input for SACD as well.

--Bob


----------



## tspotorno

I currently have a D2 and was wondering if anyone knows if I have to upgrade to the D2v if I plan to view 3d video content thru the D2? I currently use a PS3 to play my bluray media. I am thinking on upgrading my display to one that has 3d and read that the D2 might not work in this situation.


Additionally, I have searched the threads, there are many references to the D2v upgrade. I see people waiting over a month for it, I would be hard pressed to be without my unit for over a month. Is the upgrade still taking that long?


Thanks for any help.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tspotorno* /forum/post/19258393
> 
> 
> I currently have a D2 and was wondering if anyone knows if I have to upgrade to the D2v if I plan to view 3d video content thru the D2? I currently use a PS3 to play my bluray media. I am thinking on upgrading my display to one that has 3d and read that the D2 might not work in this situation.
> 
> 
> Additionally, I have searched the threads, there are many references to the D2v upgrade. I see people waiting over a month for it, I would be hard pressed to be without my unit for over a month. Is the upgrade still taking that long?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help.



There will be an upgrade to the D2v which involves 4 new v.1.4 hdmi ports to replace 4 of the existing ones. This will happen in the next 4-5 months from now. Not sure of the cost as yet. This will allow 3D support. Should be dealer installed, no need to send it back to Anthem.

John


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19258134
> 
> 
> The PCM on the Oppo HDMI LFE output should be -10dB for SACD. It is in the tests I've done. That is, the standard +10dB boost the D2v applies for movie HDMI LFE LPCM input works with the HDMI PCM input for SACD as well.



I'm sure the D2V works as you say. But how did you confirm that the BD player applied -10dB to the SACD's LFE?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tspotorno* /forum/post/19258393
> 
> 
> I currently have a D2 and was wondering if anyone knows if I have to upgrade to the D2v if I plan to view 3d video content thru the D2? I currently use a PS3 to play my bluray media. I am thinking on upgrading my display to one that has 3d and read that the D2 might not work in this situation.
> 
> 
> Additionally, I have searched the threads, there are many references to the D2v upgrade. I see people waiting over a month for it, I would be hard pressed to be without my unit for over a month. Is the upgrade still taking that long?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help.



I am able to get the 3D games from the PS3 to go through my D2 but I have to manually set the tv into 3D mode. I did have to make a direct connection initially and run through the display setup so that the PS3 knew that there was a 3D TV. I then disconnected and ran the HDMI through the D2.


I have not been able to get 3D movies to work. I can connect it direct and use optical for the audio into the D2. Since the PS3 does not at this time support the lossless audio this isn't a problem.


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Bob/John - I am currently running ARC 2.4.17. Does Beta 3.0 offer any appreciable benefits above and beyond? Sorry but have been busy and missed the earlier discussion.



Regards,


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/19259256
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Bob/John - I am currently running ARC 2.4.17. Does Beta 3.0 offer any appreciable benefits above and beyond? Sorry but have been busy and missed the earlier discussion.
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



Ralph,

there should be no difference from this version to 3.0. Below are the release notes indicating the changes from 2.4 to 3.0. I think all were included with your present version.

*v3.0


As there are major changes since v2.4 a new Automatic-mode measurement is strongly recommended.


1. Added speaker positioning helper under Advanced mode / Tools / Quick Measure. This sweeps the selected speaker continuously to instantly show uncorrected frequency response graph. This can be most useful for finding a location for the subwoofer, since bass resonances vary greatly according to speaker positioning. Approximately ten sweeps are needed before graph is shown - after that update is live.


NOTE: Quick Measure resets crossover and level calibration setup menus. If you won't be following Quick Measure with a full ARC procedure, and your existing crossover and level settings in the setup menu will be needed afterward, save or record them first.


2. Where applicable, refined response below 20 Hz (not shown on graph).


3. Refined upper-frequency measurement. The default 5 kHz correction range is still the recommended one - experimentation with the system is still the only way to determine whether a different setting would be beneficial. (Note - recalibration data is now embedded).


4. Added advanced controls in Targets panel for the sub's low end rolloff. ARC's auto-detected settings are as always the only ones that are generally recommended - manual overrides are intended for use only with the proper tools and knowledge. Don't forget that ARC is a measurement tool and contains plenty of knowledge!


5. Further to item 4, added Flat correction range option when speakers are set to full range in Targets. To access Flat setting, select Full Range X-Over, then set frequency lower than 25 Hz or type "f" in the frequency window. (Also remember that typing "n" in frequency window disables the speaker in that configuration, as long as it is not Fronts, without discarding the measurement in case you would like to use it later).


6. Room Gain is limited to 4 dB maximum (previously 6 dB). If ARC is auto-detecting no room gain, it is because the speakers' low frequency response does not result in room gain, or because bass traps have (intentionally) removed it, or because the setting is spacious such that there is no room gain.


7. Adjusted graph levels by 6 dB (this makes no difference to EQ).


8. Added compatibility for MRX 300/500/700 receivers. If loading a file that was creating using AVM, Statement D, or MRX 900 into one of these, ARC will fail the upload then ask if you would like to convert the file to MRX 300/500/700 format to allow loading. ARC for these AVR models is the same as ARC for the AVPs and MRX 900 except that less DSP power is available to flatten response, i.e. the green curve won't match the target as closely. The difference depends on how much EQing ARC is called upon to perform for the room/speaker combination and unless there are severe room problems, the difference won't be very big. You can compare by giving the new file a different name and opening the files in separate windows.*

John


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


I thought as much. Thanks for the confirmation John.











Regards,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19259015
> 
> 
> I'm sure the D2V works as you say. But how did you confirm that the BD player applied -10dB to the SACD's LFE?



"Stay in Tune with PentaTone" SACD, PentaTone Classics, PTC 5186-086, (c) 2005, bar code 8-27949-00866-5.


This is a hybrid SACD/CD with music samples on the earlier tracks and test tones on the latter tracks -- of the SACD layer only (also some natural sound ambience recordings).


Although the sample MUSIC on this SACD does *NOT* use the LFE channel (i.e., it delivers all the bass for the music through the normal 5 speaker channels), the test tones *DO* include LFE. Tracks 43-48 are matched pink noise for the 5.1 channels. Track 48 is the subwoofer, low pass filtered at 120Hz -- i.e., the LFE channel. Here's what the booklet with the disc has to say about that:



> Quote:
> The level of the subwoofer tone is calibrated so that you should read the same level on a sound pressure meter set to the C weighting scale. (NOTE: The SA-CD standard needs no boost in the LFE channel, in contrast to the 10dB boost required by Dolby Digital. Your player or controller may or may not correct this difference automatically. If not, setting the subwoofer level for SA-CD may result in 10 dB too little LFE from Dolby Digital and DTS sources, and if bass management is used, too little bass for the system as a whole -- also for SA-CD).



That is, their SACD LFE test tone is on disc at 0dB compared to the other speaker channels.


Now we know, of course, that the D2v applies the standard, +10dB boost to all HDMI LPCM LFE input.


But when I play these test tones on the Oppo BDP-83 using HDMI SACD PCM output to the D2v, the tones are balanced (using the same volume trims set by ARC for everything else.)


Thus the Oppo must be applying a special, -10dB attenuation to that SACD LFE as it comes off the disc, so that the standard, +10dB boost applied in the D2v can still be applied like this without problem.


-----------------------------------------


The PentaTone booklet then goes on to describe why trying to use the LFE channel on SACD is such a nightmare, and why they've made the choice to record all their recent SACD music with all the bass in the main speaker channels and silence in the LFE channel.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19255058
> 
> 
> Bottom line, the Oppo player's bass management appears to meet Dolby requirements just fine. And since the hardware has the Sub output trim that can apply +5dB when needed, it can indeed match the analog and digital outputs for those users who need that.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19256268
> 
> 
> I continue to believe that it is a mistake for Oppo to attenuate analog LFE the additional 5dB when all speakers are set to Large in the player, and I've told them so.



Agreed, it seems quite strange that the Dolby spec would allow for such a variation in implementation. Given this variation in spec means that applying the recommended adjustment(ie +10dB Large) does not ensure accurate corrections on Dolby compliant equipment, it certainly leaves consumers in the dark as to whether their settings are correct for a given player without accurately testing each individual case.




Rodger, this brings up a question:

If this disparity exists in the analog output if the player is decoding, is there any similar disparity in avr/processor implementation?

Does Dolby spec ensure all avr/processors perform the same when receiving digitally, or is there leeway in the spec(as there is with players) which would cause some avr/processors to output the subwoofer channel -5dB when set to Large?


cheers


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19256268
> 
> 
> This is a D2v thread, so not really the place to dive down into the rabbit hole of Oppo's player design choices, but I continue to believe that it is a mistake for Oppo to attenuate analog LFE the additional 5dB when all speakers are set to Large in the player, and I've told them so.
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> As a separate item, the analog input from the Oppo (all channels) is 1.6dB higher than the Anthem expects. This is *ONLY* a problem if you care about matching analog and HDMI audio volume levels. To match analog and HDMI you need to attenuate the Oppo's analog audio by 1.6dB (all channels equally). My recommendation, *IF YOU CARE ABOUT THIS*, is that you do this adjustment in the Anthem's analog input level adjustment -- i.e., in Setup > Analog Input Levels for the 6-channel analog input. Use -1.5dB trim (the closest you can get).
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> --Bob



I presume this 1.6dB trim applies to the analog stereo channels as well, when applied to the 2-CH analog input of the D2v/50v?


BTW ...you realise that the BDP-83 was officially discontinued yesterday due to a shortage of critical parts







? The SE is still available for sale ...


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19260072
> 
> 
> Agreed, it seems quite strange that the Dolby spec would allow for such a variation in implementation.



There are no standards for multichannel analog inputs--at least not by Dolby or DTS. Maybe THX looks after it in their program. And we know they are not all done the same way wrt the sub path gain. Anytime folks use a 5.1 analog connection, it needs to be calibrated because of such uncertainty either from the player or the AV processor. These are analog signals feeding playback chains with calibration gain controls that can be adjusted as needed. In the case at hand, both the player and the D2V have suitable controls, either alone being able to obtain a perfect balance.


Let's remember that spec is 10 years old and products can be made smarter now. Apparently some are, others are not. Oppo said that the audio decoder chip maker could not switch the sub gain when bass management was turned off--there was no option for that incorporated. Maybe Oppo thought they could not add 5 dB boost for fear of clipping. Anyway, they are now fully aware of their options.



> Quote:
> Given this variation in spec means that applying the recommended adjustment(ie +10dB Large) does not ensure accurate corrections on Dolby compliant equipment, it certainly leaves consumers in the dark as to whether their settings are correct for a given player without accurately testing each individual case.



What settings? The consumer needs to calibrate his system. If he does that, then it will sound right. But calibrating woofers has never been part of the Dolby scope, as that happens well downstream of the decoder.



> Quote:
> Roger, this brings up a question:
> 
> If this disparity exists in the analog output if the player is decoding, is there any similar disparity in avr/processor implementation?
> 
> Does Dolby spec ensure all avr/processors perform the same when receiving digitally, or is there leeway in the spec(as there is with players) which would cause some avr/processors to output the subwoofer channel -5dB when set to Large?



If we are speaking of bass management, done either analog or digital atop Dolby signals, the key relationship is the mixing ratio between LFE and the other channels. That is well and tightly defined. The analog path is left to others to define.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19259833
> 
> 
> "Stay in Tune with PentaTone" SACD, PentaTone Classics, PTC 5186-086, (c) 2005, bar code 8-27949-00866-5.
> 
> 
> Track 48 is the subwoofer, low pass filtered at 120Hz -- i.e., the LFE channel.
> 
> 
> But when I play these test tones on the Oppo BDP-83 using HDMI SACD PCM output to the D2v, the tones are balanced (using the same volume trims set by ARC for everything else.)
> 
> 
> Thus the Oppo must be applying a special, -10dB attenuation to that SACD LFE as it comes off the disc, so that the standard, +10dB boost applied in the D2v can still be applied like this without problem.



Hi Bob,


Thanks much for the details. I ordered the disc. Talk about a hidden feature! Did they tell you, or is it documented anywhere? Do other, or all 5.1 SACD players do this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks much for the details. I ordered the disc. Talk about a hidden feature! Did they tell you, or is it documented anywhere? Do other, or all 5.1 SACD players do this?



I don't know about other "universal" players. I doubt SACD specific players do it.


It came up in discussions during the Beta testing, which is another reason I'm surprised about the 5dB low analog LFE issue. I thought we had all this nailed down.


I should add that I don't believe the Oppo modifies SACD LFE when told to Bitstream DSD to an AVR that can decode that. (It really can't since it would have to decode the DSD off disc and re-encode it back again on the fly.)


But presumably, an AVR that can handle DSD input will know about the strangeness of SACD LFE and will "do the right thing" itself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19260339
> 
> 
> I presume this 1.6dB trim applies to the analog stereo channels as well, when applied to the 2-CH analog input of the D2v/50v?



See Roger's post back a bit where he measured the output voltages on the Oppo's dedicated 2-channel output.


If you are playing stereo content, the -1.6db is correct. If you are downmixing multi-channel to stereo the level has to come down to keep from clipping.


Again, I don't see much value in making this trim adjustment.

--Bob


----------



## erikno

Just to share some experience on a tweak I tried last night on the D2v. For long I have had som issues with rumble bass, even with the ARC 2.4 set to no boost ie no room gain.


My dealer have the last weeks lend me a couple of the new feature from Nordost called the the Black cone, or more correctly, the Sort Kone. It comes in different standards, I tried the cheapest - the Alu version under the D2v. (I am using the titanium under my cd player)


Then I invited a good friend and we saw the Film 2012 (also enyoing a good glass of wine..), and somewhere into the movie it struck me how the holography was better, but even more important, the bass was thight, responsive, balanced and - just amazing. My system is a little bit special since I only use 2 full range speakers, but my dealer told me to try because they have had the similar experience with putting these things under the preamplifisers/processors, not just under the cd player++.


So, while waiting for the ARC 3.0 official version







, This little thingy could also be of interest for those struggling with bass issues.


erikno


----------



## paradigm25

I am trying to get some help set up my equipment:


I have the following;


Fronts: S-8's

Surrounds: S-2's

Center: C-3

Sub: Sub 25


Processor: D2v

Amp: P-5


I am in Baltimore, Maryland area.

I am using Sony 5400 ES CD player.

Most of my issues are with 2 channel stereo so far.

Processor to Amp Monoprice XLR cables.

Amp to Speaker 12 gage Monoprice cables. (I do not get the point behind very expensive cables unless someone other than a salesman can explain. Monster does not even tell what gage wire they are providing).


My problem is that I have tried to run ARC several times, played several types of music, but I am just not satisfied with the quality of the sound. I talked to Anthem tech people, but them not being in the room, it just doesn't work. I think the overall sound is very mediocre, especially lows are just not there, highs just not impressive. I sure expected "Audio Bliss" with this kind of system. I have run ARC for 7 listining position, same for movie and music, seperate for movie and music with no surrounds for music, etc. ect., but no improvement. I just do not know what is missing. Dealer in my area where I bought my system just doesn't respond (strange). I really hope I can get some help here. Please help and ask me questions so may be some of you experts can get to the bottom of this. Attached are my results from ARC.


Thank you.

 

Arc Measured.doc 299k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25* /forum/post/19262235
> 
> 
> I am trying to get some help set up my equipment:
> 
> 
> I have the following;
> 
> 
> Fronts: S-8's
> 
> Surrounds: S-2's
> 
> Center: C-3
> 
> Sub: Sub 25
> 
> 
> Processor: D2v
> 
> Amp: P-5
> 
> 
> I am in Baltimore, Maryland area.
> 
> I am using Sony 5400 ES CD player.
> 
> Most of my issues are with 2 channel stereo so far.
> 
> Processor to Amp Monoprice XLR cables.
> 
> Amp to Speaker 12 gage Monoprice cables. (I do not get the point behind very expensive cables unless someone other than a salesman can explain. Monster does not even tell what gage wire they are providing).
> 
> 
> My problem is that I have tried to run ARC several times, played several types of music, but I am just not satisfied with the quality of the sound. I talked to Anthem tech people, but them not being in the room, it just doesn't work. I think the overall sound is very mediocre, especially lows are just not there, highs just not impressive. I sure expected "Audio Bliss" with this kind of system. I have run ARC for 7 listining position, same for movie and music, seperate for movie and music with no surrounds for music, etc. ect., but no improvement. I just do not know what is missing. Dealer in my area where I bought my system just doesn't respond (strange). I really hope I can get some help here. Please help and ask me questions so may be some of you experts can get to the bottom of this. Attached are my results from ARC.
> 
> 
> Thank you.



Your sub setup could use some improvement, but there's nothing dramatically wrong with these ARC charts. In particular, your speakers don't NEED any significant amount of correction in high frequencies, so they ought to sound just fine. Which leads me to believe there is some simple setup error you need to correct.


You say the problem is with analog stereo input. First go into Setup > Source Setup for that specific Source and check two things. To use ARC with an analog audio Source you must set the Audio In to Analog-DSP so that the D2v will re-digitize that analog audio so it can be processed.


Second, you must have Room EQ = ON so that ARC processing is enabled for that Source.


Third, double check that the ARC Bass Management configuration you intended to use with this Source (i.e., the Movie or Music configuration) is actually selected. I presume the charts you posted are for your Movie configuration. If Music is different, and that's what you are using for this Source, you can use the View menu in the ARC application to select the Music charts for viewing (and so that you can capture them for posting).


Also, next time you post, please also post your Targets window so we can see if it shows anything odd.


Next, be aware that ARC Uploads settings into the Setup menu: Speaker volume trims, and bass management crossover settings being the most important. You should not fiddle with those settings after the ARC Upload as that will invalidate ARC's audio solution. In particular, after the Upload you should go into Setup and Save User and Installer Settings so that you can't accidentally undo ARC's Uploaded values by reloading from those settings later.


If you can't recall whether you might have messed up the settings ARC Uploaded, just re-open your latest ARC results file and re-Upload that to the Anthem. No need to re-Measure.


Next, check which audio surround mode you are using when listening to this stereo Source. Press the Mode button once to find out. While checking things out for this 2-channel Source I suggest you use Stereo audio mode, which will use only LF/RF and the Subwoofer. You can change the surround mode by pressing Mode once and then using the Up and Down arrows. Note that each time you enter a Source, the surround mode will default to whatever you have set for that type of audio in Setup > Mode Presets for that Source. So if you want to use Stereo mode all the time, then set that in Setup > Mode Presets for this Source


Leave THX post processing and THX re-equalization both OFF while figuring this stuff out. Press the THX button twice while listening to this Source to check both.

*AND TURN DOLBY VOLUME OFF!* Dolby apparently requires Anthem to set Dolby Volume ON by factory default for each Source. I recommend you go into Setup > Source Setup and turn Dolby Volume OFF for each Source until you are sure your system is working the way you want. Then you can go back and experiment with it when you want to.


Next, consider whether your speakers have had a chance to break in. Some speakers need break in time particularly for the treble. One way to do this is to select the FM source and play the hiss between stations over night.


NOTE: If your speakers change as they break-in, then you should re-Measure for ARC.


------------------------------------------


As to your subwoofer, I suspect it can be set up to do better. First make sure you have disabled or bypassed any internal crossover it might have. It may have an 80Hz crossover engaged. Don't use a "THX" setting as that will likely enforce an 80Hz crossover. If that doesn't fix the hole in its response then you need to start experimenting with different room position for the sub.


After you get the sub curve looking better this way, the final step is to double check the Polarity and Phase setting for the sub so that it is matched against the main speakers and doesn't cancel bass they are producing in the crossover frequencies region. See the post links in the first post of this thread for guidance.


Also remember that you must manually enter speaker distances, specify whether your surrounds are Direct or Dipole, and set "1 Sub" in the Speaker Configuration. ARC won't set these for you.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis

Any new rumors about a D3 any time soon?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nope. The latest rumor is that Anthem will offer an upgrade to the D2v to swap out half the HDMI inputs, and presumably the HDMI outputs, to HDMI V1.4a. I presume they will provide at least pass through for 3D video as part of that, but I don't know if the video processor will actually process 3D input.


That's supposed to happen early next year.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nope. The latest rumor is that Anthem will offer an upgrade to the D2v to swap out half the HDMI inputs, and presumably the HDMI outputs, to HDMI V1.4a. I presume they will provide at least pass through for 3D video as part of that, but I don't know if the video processor will actually process 3D input.
> 
> 
> That's supposed to happen early next year.
> 
> --Bob



This was confirmed by Nick.

John


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/19260664
> 
> 
> Just to share some experience on a tweak I tried last night on the D2v. For long I have had som issues with rumble bass, even with the ARC 2.4 set to no boost ie no room gain.
> 
> 
> My dealer have the last weeks lend me a couple of the new feature from Nordost called the the Black cone, or more correctly, the Sort Kone. It comes in different standards, I tried the cheapest - the Alu version under the D2v. (I am using the titanium under my cd player)
> 
> 
> Then I invited a good friend and we saw the Film 2012 (also enyoing a good glass of wine..), and somewhere into the movie it struck me how the holography was better, but even more important, the bass was thight, responsive, balanced and - just amazing. My system is a little bit special since I only use 2 full range speakers, but my dealer told me to try because they have had the similar experience with putting these things under the preamplifisers/processors, not just under the cd player++.
> 
> 
> So, while waiting for the ARC 3.0 official version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , This little thingy could also be of interest for those struggling with bass issues.
> 
> 
> erikno



What wine were you drinking? I'd bet that the wine may have contributed as much as the aluminum cones to the improved sound.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19262534
> 
> 
> Your sub setup could use some improvement, but there's nothing dramatically wrong with these ARC charts. In particular, your speakers don't NEED any significant amount of correction in high frequencies, so they ought to sound just fine. Which leads me to believe there is some simple setup error you need to correct.
> 
> 
> You say the problem is with analog stereo input. First go into Setup > Source Setup for that specific Source and check two things. To use ARC with an analog audio Source you must set the Audio In to Analog-DSP so that the D2v will re-digitize that analog audio so it can be processed.
> 
> 
> Second, you must have Room EQ = ON so that ARC processing is enabled for that Source.
> 
> 
> Third, double check that the ARC Bass Management configuration you intended to use with this Source (i.e., the Movie or Music configuration) is actually selected. I presume the charts you posted are for your Movie configuration. If Music is different, and that's what you are using for this Source, you can use the View menu in the ARC application to select the Music charts for viewing (and so that you can capture them for posting).
> 
> 
> Also, next time you post, please also post your Targets window so we can see if it shows anything odd.
> 
> 
> Next, be aware that ARC Uploads settings into the Setup menu: Speaker volume trims, and bass management crossover settings being the most important. You should not fiddle with those settings after the ARC Upload as that will invalidate ARC's audio solution. In particular, after the Upload you should go into Setup and Save User and Installer Settings so that you can't accidentally undo ARC's Uploaded values by reloading from those settings later.
> 
> 
> If you can't recall whether you might have messed up the settings ARC Uploaded, just re-open your latest ARC results file and re-Upload that to the Anthem. No need to re-Measure.
> 
> 
> Next, check which audio surround mode you are using when listening to this stereo Source. Press the Mode button once to find out. While checking things out for this 2-channel Source I suggest you use Stereo audio mode, which will use only LF/RF and the Subwoofer. You can change the surround mode by pressing Mode once and then using the Up and Down arrows. Note that each time you enter a Source, the surround mode will default to whatever you have set for that type of audio in Setup > Mode Presets for that Source. So if you want to use Stereo mode all the time, then set that in Setup > Mode Presets for this Source
> 
> 
> Leave THX post processing and THX re-equalization both OFF while figuring this stuff out. Press the THX button twice while listening to this Source to check both.
> 
> *AND TURN DOLBY VOLUME OFF!* Dolby apparently requires Anthem to set Dolby Volume ON by factory default for each Source. I recommend you go into Setup > Source Setup and turn Dolby Volume OFF for each Source until you are sure your system is working the way you want. Then you can go back and experiment with it when you want to.
> 
> 
> Next, consider whether your speakers have had a chance to break in. Some speakers need break in time particularly for the treble. One way to do this is to select the FM source and play the hiss between stations over night.
> 
> 
> NOTE: If your speakers change as they break-in, then you should re-Measure for ARC.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> As to your subwoofer, I suspect it can be set up to do better. First make sure you have disabled or bypassed any internal crossover it might have. It may have an 80Hz crossover engaged. Don't use a "THX" setting as that will likely enforce an 80Hz crossover. If that doesn't fix the hole in its response then you need to start experimenting with different room position for the sub.
> 
> 
> After you get the sub curve looking better this way, the final step is to double check the Polarity and Phase setting for the sub so that it is matched against the main speakers and doesn't cancel bass they are producing in the crossover frequencies region. See the post links in the first post of this thread for guidance.
> 
> 
> Also remember that you must manually enter speaker distances, specify whether your surrounds are Direct or Dipole, and set "1 Sub" in the Speaker Configuration. ARC won't set these for you.
> 
> --Bob



I really really appriciate it. I will try all this and let you know.


Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19262744
> 
> 
> This was confirmed by Nick.
> 
> John



Any clue yet on (1) pricing, and (2) whether the video processor will actually process 3D video?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25* /forum/post/19262754
> 
> 
> I really really appriciate it. I will try all this and let you know.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



One more suggestion:


Analog content has to be digitized for processing as stated above. By default, the D2v uses a limited sampling rate for digitizing (44.1KHz) so as to maintain digital output compatibility with digital recorders. Since you are not using a digital recorder you should go into Setup > ADC and raise the sampling rate for 2-channel analog audio inputs to 96KHz, which will improve the quality. The 6-channel analog input is already digitized at that rate by default.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any clue yet on (1) pricing, and (2) whether the video processor will actually process 3D video?
> 
> --Bob



Somewhere around $500. Video board would have to be software upgraded and then firmware on top. There was no indication it wouldn't.

John


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/19262753
> 
> 
> What wine were you drinking? I'd bet that the wine may have contributed as much as the aluminum cones to the improved sound.



Ah! the wine was a savigny les beaune from V Girardin. quite good!










Regarding the cones however, the effect of these were not affected by the wine, verified later under completly sober circumstances










erikno


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19262658
> 
> 
> Nope. The latest rumor is that Anthem will offer an upgrade to the D2v to swap out half the HDMI inputs, and presumably the HDMI outputs, to HDMI V1.4a. I presume they will provide at least pass through for 3D video as part of that, but I don't know if the video processor will actually process 3D input.
> 
> 
> That's supposed to happen early next year.
> 
> --Bob



Is V1.4a backwards compatible with 1.3x ? If so, then this would be future proofing the processor for those of us who are hedging that 3D will not catch on as expected.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Is V1.4a backwards compatible with 1.3x ? If so, then this would be future proofing the processor for those of us who are hedging that 3D will not catch on as expected.



I can't believe it wouldn't be. Also remember, only 4 of the eight hdmi ports are going to be replaced so the other ports would still work with legacy equipment. BTW, one hdmi out will also be 1.4a compliant.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19263469
> 
> 
> I can't believe it wouldn't be. Also remember, only 4 of the eight hdmi ports are going to be replaced so the other ports would still work with legacy equipment. BTW, one hdmi out will also be 1.4a compliant.
> 
> John



In case folks are wondering, half the inputs and one output are on daughter boards that plug into the main video board. That's why this can be done without having to swap out the video board -- which is the single most expensive item in the unit.


The interesting thing will be to see if there are HDMI problems when both HDMI outputs are connected to displays. My guess is the new output will be limited to what the old output can support to its display as I doubt the HDMI spec has conceived of the notion of fan out of HDMI to outputs with different version characteristics.


The video processor itself has two separate processing paths which are being used to drive the two outputs. At the moment both paths are set to do the same thing all the time. But it's just firmware to change that. (The graphics overlays are handled specially, so that's why they don't show on the HDMI 2 output.) The question is whether the path driving the V1.4a output can really do things differently from the path driving the V1.3 output WITHOUT BREAKING HDCP (copy protection).


Aint HDMI fun?

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In case folks are wondering, half the inputs and one output are on daughter boards that plug into the main video board. That's why this can be done without having to swap out the video board -- which is the single most expensive item in the unit.
> 
> 
> The interesting thing will be to see if there are HDMI problems when both HDMI outputs are connected to displays. My guess is the new output will be limited to what the old output can support to its display as I doubt the HDMI spec has conceived of the notion of fan out of HDMI to outputs with different version characteristics.
> 
> 
> The video processor itself has two separate processing paths which are being used to drive the two outputs. At the moment both paths are set to do the same thing all the time. But it's just firmware to change that. (The graphics overlays are handled specially, so that's why they don't show on the HDMI 2 output.) The question is whether the path driving the V1.4a output can really do things differently from the path driving the V1.3 output WITHOUT BREAKING HDCP (copy protection).
> 
> 
> Aint HDMI fun?
> 
> --Bob



And expensive









John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19263469
> 
> 
> I can't believe it wouldn't be. Also remember, only 4 of the eight hdmi ports are going to be replaced so the other ports would still work with legacy equipment. BTW, one hdmi out will also be 1.4a compliant.
> 
> John



John:


I just checked the HDMI faq section and this is what they say:

Are HDMI 1.4 devices going to be backwards-compatible with older HDMI (v.1.0 - 1.3) devices?
Yes, devices built to the HDMI 1.4 specification will be fully backwards-compatible with existing HDMI devices and their features.


Can older HDMI (v.1.0 - 1.3) devices be firmware-upgraded to take advantage of the new features introduced in HDMI 1.4?
Probably not. Most of the new features introduced in HDMI 1.4 will require a new HDMI chip to enable, and cannot be upgraded via firmware



But I seem to recall the mechanical connectors are different in size and pin definition between revs 1.3 and 1.4, probably to accomodate the new ethernet and audio return channels plus other new control signals. So i can't see how they'll be backwards compatible, unless a special adapter is used on an already fragile connector.


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19262658
> 
> 
> Nope. The latest rumor is that Anthem will offer an upgrade to the D2v to swap out half the HDMI inputs, and presumably the HDMI outputs, to HDMI V1.4a. I presume they will provide at least pass through for 3D video as part of that, but I don't know if the video processor will actually process 3D input.
> 
> 
> That's supposed to happen early next year.
> 
> --Bob



I would really like to see them add the ability for 7.1 analog inputs.....I really miss the old function in the D2 in which you could swap the surrounds for the rears for the 5.1 analog input (7.1 analog inputs allow you to do the same thing).


They had programming problems with it and dropped it for the D2v instead of fixing the problems...not enough people complained - I was probably the only one!


Mike


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> John:
> 
> 
> I just checked the HDMI faq section and this is what they say:
> 
> 
> Are HDMI 1.4 devices going to be backwards-compatible with older HDMI (v.1.0 - 1.3) devices?
> 
> Yes, devices built to the HDMI 1.4 specification will be fully backwards-compatible with existing HDMI devices and their features.
> 
> 
> Can older HDMI (v.1.0 - 1.3) devices be firmware-upgraded to take advantage of the new features introduced in HDMI 1.4?
> 
> Probably not. Most of the new features introduced in HDMI 1.4 will require a new HDMI chip to enable, and cannot be upgraded via firmware
> 
> 
> But I seem to recall the mechanical connectors are different in size and pin definition between revs 1.3 and 1.4, probably to accomodate the new ethernet and audio return channels plus other new control signals. So i can't see how they'll be backwards compatible, unless a special adapter is used on an already fragile connector.



I don't recall any diff b/t the pin config. Perhaps Bob knows something.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/19263712
> 
> 
> I would really like to see them add the ability for 7.1 analog inputs.....I really miss the old function in the D2 in which you could swap the surrounds for the rears for the 5.1 analog input (7.1 analog inputs allow you to do the same thing).
> 
> 
> They had programming problems with it and dropped it for the D2v instead of fixing the problems...not enough people complained - I was probably the only one!
> 
> 
> Mike



I seriously doubt you are going to see that. The trend in AVRs and prepros is to remove multi-channel analog, not extend it. I'm afraid we're stuck with HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19263743
> 
> 
> I don't recall any diff b/t the pin config. Perhaps Bob knows something.
> 
> John



Pins and plugs are the same as for HDMI V1.3.


(There is a new "mini" plug for portable devices, but that doesn't affect us.)


Ethernet is added by a kluge that makes it run on fewer wires than are used in normal ethernet cable. It will be fascinating to see what that breaks. Ethernet support is optional and I doubt you'll see either that or audio return channel on what Anthem does for the D2v's HDMI V1.4a upgrade.


Cables will be sold in different flavors which are identical except for the design quality and certification tests they are supposed to pass. You'll have normal cable with and without ethernet certification and high speed cable with and without ethernet certification. The cable with more certifications may very well be no different than the cable with less, except for the price tag of course.


Note that the first generation of HDMI V1.4 stuff (coming out now in all sorts of products) won't carry the full boat for 3D video because the chips don't have the bandwidth to handle two 1920x1080p video streams simultaneously. So sometime later on there will be "new and improved" HDMI V1.4 stuff that is supposed to support that higher bandwidth. Until then you get half-baked 3D with two 1080i streams or one 1080p stream with both eye views in each frame (e.g., split left and right or top and bottom on each frame) meaning either the horizontal or the vertical resolution is halved for each eye view.

--Bob


----------



## dvcdude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Pins and plugs are the same as for HDMI V1.3.
> 
> 
> (There is a new "mini" plug for portable devices, but that doesn't affect us.)
> 
> 
> Ethernet is added by a kluge that makes it run on fewer wires than are used in normal ethernet cable. It will be fascinating to see what that breaks. Ethernet support is optional and I doubt you'll see either that or audio return channel on what Anthem does for the D2v's HDMI V1.4a upgrade.
> 
> 
> Cables will be sold in different flavors which are identical except for the design quality and certification tests they are supposed to pass. You'll have normal cable with and without ethernet certification and high speed cable with and without ethernet certification. The cable with more certifications may very well be no different than the cable with less, except for the price tag of course.
> 
> 
> Note that the first generation of HDMI V1.4 stuff (coming out now in all sorts of products) won't carry the full boat for 3D video because the chips don't have the bandwidth to handle two 1920x1080p video streams simultaneously. So sometime later on there will be "new and improved" HDMI V1.4 stuff that is supposed to support that higher bandwidth. Until then you get half-baked 3D with two 1080i streams or one 1080p stream with both eye views in each frame (e.g., split left and right or top and bottom on each frame) meaning either the horizontal or the vertical resolution is halved for each eye view.
> 
> --Bob



will this upgrade be available for the AVM50v as well?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude* /forum/post/19263908
> 
> 
> will this upgrade be available for the AVM50v as well?



No idea, but I don't see why not. The video setup is identical on the AVM 50v and the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

For those interested in knowing more about HDMI v1.4, their website has a quick presention at http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_1_4/


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those interested in knowing more about HDMI v1.4, their website has a quick presention at http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_1_4/



Thanks for the link.

John


----------



## xMEATx

I gotta say, i have been reading all or most of the posts on this thread and I am a bit intimidated by what I read. I have been considering getting a D2v, but it appears to be very techie. I don't mind a little tinkering, but am I to believe this unit is really high maintenance? I was hoping for a plug and play unit. Your thoughts?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19264363
> 
> 
> I gotta say, i have been reading all or most of the posts on this thread and I am a bit intimidated by what I read. I have been considering getting a D2v, but it appears to be very techie. I don't mind a little tinkering, but am I to believe this unit is really high maintenance? I was hoping for a plug and play unit. Your thoughts?



Most people are asking questions about how to tweak or how to squeeze out better video or audio. ARC keeps us busy trying to keep up with firmware but that is a good thing since the latest beta is fantastic for LFE lovers and the rest of you







This is a small sample of the people who own Anthem and we are the ones who like to venture out and experiment. If I didn't do this I would have virtually no issues. The sound from this unit is hard to match at any price. With ARC it surpasses many very high priced units. Problems will come along, but on average, 95% of owners don't have issues.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19264490
> 
> 
> Most people are asking questions about how to tweak or how to squeeze out better video or audio. ARC keeps us busy trying to keep up with firmware but that is a good thing since the latest beta is fantastic for LFE lovers and the rest of you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a small sample of the people who own Anthem and we are the ones who like to venture out and experiment. If I didn't do this I would have virtually no issues. The sound from this unit is hard to match at any price. With ARC it surpasses many very high priced units. Problems will come along, but on average, 95% of owners don't have issues.
> 
> John



I agree with John - I have only run ARC Twice since it was released.


I'm HAPPY










It is Plug and Play in Hank's Book


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19264550
> 
> 
> I agree with John - I have only run ARC Twice since it was released.
> 
> 
> I'm HAPPY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is Plug and Play in Hank's Book



drhankz,

have you tried the beta version 3.0 or still waiting for the official?

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19262658
> 
> 
> Nope. The latest rumor is that Anthem will offer an upgrade to the D2v to swap out half the HDMI inputs, and presumably the HDMI outputs, to HDMI V1.4a. I presume they will provide at least pass through for 3D video as part of that, but I don't know if the video processor will actually process 3D input.
> 
> 
> That's supposed to happen early next year.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19262744
> 
> 
> This was confirmed by Nick.
> 
> John



...that 3D video will simply be passthrough or that it'll have a new processor to process 3D video in all its glory?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19264550
> 
> 
> I agree with John - I have only run ARC Twice since it was released.
> 
> 
> I'm HAPPY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is Plug and Play in Hank's Book



I agree with drhankz and jayray. My D2 has been pretty much problem free. A lot of my questions is because I enjoy tinkering and trying different things. I have not encountered any problems. Just hit the power button and enjoy the sights and sound.







It's a sound like no other sound.







Yes, I'm a happy Anthem D2 owner.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19264736
> 
> 
> ...that 3D video will simply be passthrough or that it'll have a new processor to process 3D video in all its glory?



I haven't heard anything about a new processor for 3D. Don't know how this will work. Personally I could care less about it now, maybe later who knows, before my Anthem system I told my wife I didn't need anything better than what I had and look what that got me into










John


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> John:
> 
> 
> I just checked the HDMI faq section and this is what they say:
> 
> 
> Are HDMI 1.4 devices going to be backwards-compatible with older HDMI (v.1.0 - 1.3) devices?
> 
> Yes, devices built to the HDMI 1.4 specification will be fully backwards-compatible with existing HDMI devices and their features.
> 
> 
> Can older HDMI (v.1.0 - 1.3) devices be firmware-upgraded to take advantage of the new features introduced in HDMI 1.4?
> 
> Probably not. Most of the new features introduced in HDMI 1.4 will require a new HDMI chip to enable, and cannot be upgraded via firmware
> 
> 
> But I seem to recall the mechanical connectors are different in size and pin definition between revs 1.3 and 1.4, probably to accomodate the new ethernet and audio return channels plus other new control signals. So i can't see how they'll be backwards compatible, unless a special adapter is used on an already fragile connector.



The real question is will they utilize 1.4 with Ethernet capabilities? I would love to see that.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19264798
> 
> 
> before my Anthem system I told my wife I didn't need anything better than what I had and look what that got me into
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I told my wife the exact same thing. I told her the exact same thing about my current setup now. She just shook her head and said yeah right, you mean you don't need anything better until the next best thing comes out. She's such a sport.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I told my wife the exact same thing. I told her the exact same thing about my current setup now. She just shook her head and said yeah right, you mean you don't need anything better until the next best thing comes out. She's such a sport.



That is the same response I got







)

John


----------



## lk100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19263778
> 
> 
> Pins and plugs are the same as for HDMI V1.3.
> 
> Note that the first generation of HDMI V1.4 stuff (coming out now in all sorts of products) won't carry the full boat for 3D video because the chips don't have the bandwidth to handle two 1920x1080p video streams simultaneously. So sometime later on there will be "new and improved" HDMI V1.4 stuff that is supposed to support that higher bandwidth. Until then you get half-baked 3D with two 1080i streams or one 1080p stream with both eye views in each frame (e.g., split left and right or top and bottom on each frame) meaning either the horizontal or the vertical resolution is halved for each eye view.
> 
> --Bob



Isn't the latest firmware for the PS3 putting out two 1920x1080p video streams simultaneously over HDMI v1.3? However, it does not support the lossless audio formats when outputting 3D video. The D2v probably isn't capable of passing that signal to the display, even though it is HDMI v1.3.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19264676
> 
> 
> drhankz,
> 
> have you tried the beta version 3.0 or still waiting for the official?
> 
> John



I have not tried it - it is hard to IMPROVE my System


----------



## BladeRnR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19264907
> 
> 
> That is the same response I got
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> John



You're lucky you get a response at all. All I get is the look of death and a slow and purposeful shake of the head


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BladeRnR* /forum/post/19266371
> 
> 
> You're lucky you get a response at all. All I get is the look of death and a slow and purposeful shake of the head



How does she get from Australia to Canada each day, I think we're all sharing the same wife









John


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19264363
> 
> 
> I gotta say, i have been reading all or most of the posts on this thread and I am a bit intimidated by what I read. I have been considering getting a D2v, but it appears to be very techie. I don't mind a little tinkering, but am I to believe this unit is really high maintenance? I was hoping for a plug and play unit. Your thoughts?



I had the same reservations at one time, but I can tell you the D2v is an amazing product. It gives to ability to set it up and leave it alone with great results, or you can tinker and adjust as much as you want.


Don't know if I would call it "plug and play." but the dealer you buy from should have a qualified installer to set it up.


----------



## Texas steve

Agree, if you like to tinker its a great product as you can tweek it as much or as little as you like.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19267087
> 
> 
> I had the same reservations at one time, but I can tell you the D2v is an amazing product. It gives to ability to set it up and leave it alone with great results, or you can tinker and adjust as much as you want.
> 
> 
> Don't know if I would call it "plug and play." but the dealer you buy from should have a qualified installer to set it up.


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Agree, if you like to tinker its a great product as you can tweek it as much or as little as you like.



Thanks for the information, I had hope it wasn't that complicated.


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19267401
> 
> 
> Thanks for the information, I had hope it wasn't that complicated.



You are in McKinney. I am in Plano. Let me know if you have not purchased yet and I will give you the name of the person I use for all my A/V decisions, he is really good and reasonable. He is an authorized Anthem rep.


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19264798
> 
> 
> I haven't heard anything about a new processor for 3D. Don't know how this will work. Personally I could care less about it now, maybe later who knows, before my Anthem system I told my wife I didn't need anything better than what I had and look what that got me into
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Same here on the wife!


I don't really care about the 3D capabilities at this time, too early in the development. I am interested in the 4k x 2k resolution with 1.4 hdmi, although my A/V dealer says no way most people in a home setting will see that over 1080p.


Just bought my D2v a couple of months back, so the idea of making the 1.4 changes is not too appealing.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Same here on the wife!
> 
> 
> I don't really care about the 3D capabilities at this time, too early in the development. I am interested in the 4k x 2k resolution with 1.4 hdmi, although my A/V dealer says no way most people in a home setting will see that over 1080p.
> 
> 
> Just bought my D2v a couple of months back, so the idea of making the 1.4 changes is not too appealing.



I don't blame you.

John


----------



## SMabille_UK




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/19260664
> 
> 
> Just to share some experience on a tweak I tried last night on the D2v. For long I have had som issues with rumble bass, even with the ARC 2.4 set to no boost ie no room gain.
> 
> 
> My dealer have the last weeks lend me a couple of the new feature from Nordost called the the Black cone, or more correctly, the Sort Kone. It comes in different standards, I tried the cheapest - the Alu version under the D2v. (I am using the titanium under my cd player)
> 
> 
> Then I invited a good friend and we saw the Film 2012 (also enyoing a good glass of wine..), and somewhere into the movie it struck me how the holography was better, but even more important, the bass was thight, responsive, balanced and - just amazing. My system is a little bit special since I only use 2 full range speakers, but my dealer told me to try because they have had the similar experience with putting these things under the preamplifisers/processors, not just under the cd player++.
> 
> 
> So, while waiting for the ARC 3.0 official version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , This little thingy could also be of interest for those struggling with bass issues.
> 
> 
> erikno



Hi Erikno,


Do you know if those cones also works with a PC? I'm looking for the ones that double my hard disk size and increase the speed.... I already tried the gold platted USB cable without success (even if it was supposed to make the bits more "digital")!


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SMabille_UK* /forum/post/19267655
> 
> 
> Hi Erikno,
> 
> 
> Do you know if those cones also works with a PC? I'm looking for the ones that double my hard disk size and increase the speed.... I already tried the gold platted USB cable without success (even if it was supposed to make the bits more "digital")!



Well, I do not know how it works on a PC, but on a wife, it will double her interest in her mans hobbies - and she will at least look twice as nice...










erikno


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/19267810
> 
> 
> Well, I do not know how it works on a PC, but on a wife, it will double her interest in her mans hobbies - and she will at least look twice as nice...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> erikno



Now that's funny









John


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You are in McKinney. I am in Plano. Let me know if you have not purchased yet and I will give you the name of the person I use for all my A/V decisions, he is really good and reasonable. He is an authorized Anthem rep.



I have not bought one yet. I would like any information you have, although I am not planning on buying one until after the first of the year. I didn't see many dealers in this area, with the exception of Dallas.


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19269273
> 
> 
> I have not bought one yet. I would like any information you have, although I am not planning on buying one until after the first of the year. I didn't see many dealers in this area, with the exception of Dallas.



Email me and let's go from there: [email protected] 


The guy I work with is in Frisco and his business has won multiple awards for customer service and quality of work.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Anthem tech support password protected page link with the "test" ARC 3.0 stuff in it has been updated, this afternoon.


But so far, the only change is to remove the Beta PBK software that was recently included in there. The ARC stuff itself, including the manuals and utilities, is unchanged.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19269640
> 
> 
> The Anthem tech support password protected page link with the "test" ARC 3.0 stuff in it has been updated, this afternoon.
> 
> 
> But so far, the only change is to remove the Beta PBK software that was recently included in there. The ARC stuff itself, including the manuals and utilities, is unchanged.
> 
> --Bob



Are there instructions on how to use the new ARC features in the manuals?


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19270703
> 
> 
> Are there instructions on how to use the new ARC features in the manuals yet?
> 
> 
> Tom



Some limited instructions are in the new draft manuals yes. Other info, really more cautions than instructions, are in the release notes. None of this text has changed for some months now.


There is also still no sign of a new version of Setup Editor (view and change Setup menu settings from a PC) that's been updated to work with the firmware that has the Dolby Volume changes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*****************************************************

ARC V3.0 IS NOW OFFICIAL!

*****************************************************


Anthem is in the process of updating their public download pages with the "official" release of ARC V3.0.


The install kit can be downloaded either from the D2v or AVM 50v software download pages (the kit is identical for all processors including the original D1, D2, and AVM 50 with ARC licenses).

http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-...pport/software 

http://anthemav.com/downloads/anthem...m-50v/software 


Release notes for changes from the last "official" version (ARC V2.4) read as follows:



> Quote:
> v3.0
> 
> 
> As there are major changes since v2.4 a new Automatic-mode measurement is strongly recommended.
> 
> 
> 1. Added speaker positioning helper under Advanced mode / Tools / Quick Measure. This sweeps the selected speaker continuously to instantly show uncorrected frequency response graph. This can be most useful for finding a location for the subwoofer, since bass resonances vary greatly according to speaker positioning. Approximately ten sweeps are needed before graph is shown - after that update is live.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Quick Measure resets crossover and level calibration setup menus. If you won't be following Quick Measure with a full ARC procedure, and your existing crossover and level settings in the setup menu will be needed afterward, save or record them first.
> 
> 
> 2. Where applicable, refined response below 20 Hz (not shown on graph).
> 
> 
> 3. Refined upper-frequency measurement. The default 5 kHz correction range is still the recommended one - experimentation with the system is still the only way to determine whether a different setting would be beneficial. (Note - recalibration data is now embedded).
> 
> 
> 4. Added advanced controls in Targets panel for the sub's low end rolloff. ARC's auto-detected settings are as always the only ones that are generally recommended - manual overrides are intended for use only with the proper tools and knowledge. Don't forget that ARC is a measurement tool and contains plenty of knowledge!
> 
> 
> 5. Further to item 4, added Flat correction range option when speakers are set to full range in Targets. To access Flat setting, select Full Range X-Over, then set frequency lower than 25 Hz or type "f" in the frequency window. (Also remember that typing "n" in frequency window disables the speaker in that configuration, as long as it is not Fronts, without discarding the measurement in case you would like to use it later).
> 
> 
> 6. Room Gain is limited to 4 dB maximum (previously 6 dB). If ARC is auto-detecting no room gain, it is because the speakers' low frequency response does not result in room gain, or because bass traps have (intentionally) removed it, or because the setting is spacious such that there is no room gain.
> 
> 
> 7. Adjusted graph levels by 6 dB (this makes no difference to EQ).
> 
> 
> 8. Added compatibility for MRX 300/500/700 receivers. If loading a file that was creating using AVM, Statement D, or MRX 900 into one of these, ARC will fail the upload then ask if you would like to convert the file to MRX 300/500/700 format to allow loading. ARC for these AVR models is the same as ARC for the AVPs and MRX 900 except that less DSP power is available to flatten response, i.e. the green curve won't match the target as closely. The difference depends on how much EQing ARC is called upon to perform for the room/speaker combination and unless there are severe room problems, the difference won't be very big. You can compare by giving the new file a different name and opening the files in separate windows.



The "official" ARC V3.0 application is identical in size and last modified time to the one that has been on the password protected download page. So if you have already grabbed ARC V3.0 from there, it looks like there's no need to replace that. In addition, the included manuals and utilities are also the same. Note that there is still no version of Setup Editor compatible with the Dolby Volume changes made in firmware V2.10 for the D2v and AVM 50v. For those who are interested, the Manual for the first 3 versions of Anthem's new Receiver products is also included in this kit.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19273747
> 
> *****************************************************
> 
> ARC V3.0 IS NOW OFFICIAL!
> 
> *****************************************************
> 
> 
> Anthem is in the process of updating their public download pages with the "official" release of ARC V3.0.
> 
> 
> Details to follow.
> 
> --Bob



You can add PBK official 2.0 also has been uploaded for paradigm sub owners.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19273777
> 
> 
> You can add PBK official also to be uploaded sometime today for paradigm sub owners.
> 
> John



Thanks for the update Bob and jayray.


----------



## mikefl52

Excellent!!


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I downloaded and ran new measurements for ARC 3.0 it went very quickly and smooth. My charts look very good, consistant with my last run in ARC 2.4.15.


I swear the sound is more full especially in the mid range, this is for music, I won't know about movies for about 2 weeks as my BDP-83 went in for repair.


I'll be playing over the weekend, I have 2 setups one cutoff at 5K and another at 12K. Currently using 12K which has always worked best for me.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/19274686
> 
> 
> I won't know about movies for about 2 weeks as my BDP-83 went in for repair.


*WHAT* - Only One Blu-Ray Player - I have FOUR


----------



## Kensmith48

Great!! Now all we need is the official upgrade for the D2.


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19274802
> 
> *WHAT* - Only One Blu-Ray Player - I have FOUR



I know I almost bought another today but they are out of stock, hey I can only watch one at a time.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/19274865
> 
> 
> I know I almost bought another today but they are out of stock, hey I can only watch one at a time.



I agree - but I have FOUR Theaters with one Blu-Ray in each


----------



## jayray

*Be aware that on the Athem site, it still says ARC v.2.4 but if you download this file you will see that it is in fact v3.0.*

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19275663
> 
> *Be aware that on the Athem site, it still says ARC v.2.4 but if you download this file you will see that it is in fact v3.0.*
> 
> John



FWIW it now is listed as v3.0 on the D2v download page.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19275663
> 
> *Be aware that on the Athem site, it still says ARC v.2.4 but if you download this file you will see that it is in fact v3.0.*
> 
> John



Refresh your browser (delete the cache) and try again. Both the D2v and AVM 50v pages I linked to were showing V3.0 when I made my post above.

--Bob


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19273747
> 
> 
> The "official" ARC V3.0 application is identical in size and last modified time to the one that has been on the password protected download page. So if you have already grabbed ARC V3.0 from there, it looks like there's no need to replace that.--Bob



Excellent. I took a chance and downloaded, installed and ran the 3.0beta this week. Glad I won't have to do it all over again for the official release.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem has also posted a "Product Info" page on ARC V3.0, with a link to that in the News section on their home page:

http://anthemav.com/new-product-information/new 


--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Refresh your browser (delete the cache) and try again. Both the D2v and AVM 50v pages I linked to were showing V3.0 when I made my post above.
> 
> --Bob



I refreshed the page but it still said 2.4. I didn't empty the cache but then never had to before.

John


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/19274832
> 
> 
> Great!! Now all we need is the official upgrade for the D2.



+1

Yeah Anthem, how about supporting the people who got you here.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19276315
> 
> 
> I refreshed the page but it still said 2.4. I didn't empty the cache but then never had to before.
> 
> John



Are you using the links I provided in my post, or are you finding "2.4" on some other URL? It's possible some portion of their site didn't get the text changed.

--Bob


----------



## davoe

I ran ARC 3.0 and got beautiful results. Just for the he'll of it I thought I'd backup my video settings. Like a year ago, I'm having difficulty"getting" my current settings so I can save them.


I use a Keyspan 19hs and it works well with ARC. When I open LVES it acknowledges that my D2 (I have a D2V) is connected. When I click on "get" my light blinks on the serial device and then stops with no data uploaded to my computer. Has anyone ever solved this issue?


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/19276422
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> Yeah Anthem, how about supporting the people who got you here.



+10000


I've got one of the oldest D2s with the doughnut transformer and green video board. Although I've wanted to try out 1.47 (especially after hearing about lots of little improvements), I don't dare brick the centerpiece of my theater.


But, this weekend I have Arc 3.0 to play with!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/19276428
> 
> 
> I ran ARC 3.0 and got beautiful results. Just for the he'll of it I thought I'd backup my video settings. Like a year ago, I'm having difficulty"getting" my current settings so I can save them.
> 
> 
> I use a Keyspan 19hs and it works well with ARC. When I open LVES it acknowledges that my D2 (I have a D2V) is connected. When I click on "get" my light blinks on the serial device and then stops with no data uploaded to my computer. Has anyone ever solved this issue?



This problem seems to come and go with no obvious reason.


One suggested workaround is to make sure the Anthem is powered on BEFORE you launch LVSE. I.e., don't use LVSE to turn on the processor, and don't even turn on the processor yourself after starting LVSE.


I suggest you reboot the computer, power cycle the Anthem (including use of the back panel power switch) and try again with the Anthem powered up before you launch LVSE.

--Bob


----------



## davoe

Thanks Bob. I did all that. I did a search and found your response from January. I rebooted my laptop and recycled the d2v from the back, turned it on then opened LVSE.


No luck. You'd think anthem would have addessed this one over the last 10 months. I emailed them tonight as a did back in January.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are no standards for multichannel analog inputs--at least not by Dolby or DTS. Maybe THX looks after it in their program.



Was referring to the players multichannel analog outputs which you mentioned could be -15dB for both Large and Small BM settings.



> Quote:
> And we know they are not all done the same way wrt the sub path gain. Anytime folks use a 5.1 analog connection, it needs to be calibrated because of such uncertainty either from the player or the AV processor. These are analog signals feeding playback chains with calibration gain controls that can be adjusted as needed. In the case at hand, both the player and the D2V have suitable controls, either alone being able to obtain a perfect balance.



And therein lies the problem, the uncertainty was written into the spec.........where's the ninja emotion when you need it











> Quote:
> Let's remember that spec is 10 years old and products can be made smarter now. Apparently some are, others are not.



Granted, maybe they need to update the spec



> Quote:
> What settings?



The +10dB and +15dB options available in most processors(automatically implemented in the D2v) to correct for the multichannel analog subwoofer input. Most users have heard the recommended +10dB for Large and +15dB for small adjustment, this is the first if heard that an in spec player could need a +15dB for Large adjustment.



> Quote:
> The consumer needs to calibrate his system. If he does that, then it will sound right.



And most do this by using the inbuilt test tones(or automated calibrations) which is usually reasonably accurate for digital inputs and for analog inputs when you adjust +10dB Large and +15dB Small. It's only when there is a variation to this that an issue is caused, up until now I thought the specs were well defined and any component that wouldn't be within calibration after these adjustments would be out of spec. But as you have pointed out the spec allows for both a -10dB and -15dB subwoofer output from the player when it is set to Large. To me this causes uncertainty not only for the manufacturers but for consumers as to the corrections that need to be applied.


Sure using a disc with accurate calibration tones will ensure these discrepancies are found and adjusted for but surely specifications are there to ensure uniformity and certainty. Which in this case we cannot be certain that a within spec player is outputting the analog subwoofer channel at a particular level when set to Large.........on the other hand we can be certain it is -15dB when set to Small











> Quote:
> But calibrating woofers has never been part of the Dolby scope, as that happens well downstream of the decoder.



That wasn't my implication. But I'd have thought that the spec was such that once the front end of a system was calibrated one could swap within spec players and be assured the system is still in a calibrated fashion.

Aside from the issue were discussing, the fact that OPPO have decided to up their analog output by 0.4Vrms clearly shows manufactures have little regard to adhering to even the most simplistic industry standards, so well defined licensed specifications become even more invaluable











> Quote:
> If we are speaking of bass management, done either analog or digital atop Dolby signals, the key relationship is the mixing ratio between LFE and the other channels. That is well and tightly defined. The analog path is left to others to define.



Not sure if that's a yes or no









As I understand it the LFE channel is encoded -10dB. If the avr/processor is set to Large it should simply add +10dB at the volume control to ensure correct balance. If the processor is set to Small the LFE channel + redirected bass should be reduced by -5dB for summing, then +15dB should be applied at the volume control to ensure correct balance. From what you have mentioned the spec allows a player to output the subwoofer channel at either -10dB or -15dB when set to Large.

Is it possible for a avr/processor to apply adjustment that results in an incorrect output when internally decoding and still be within spec?


Cheers


----------



## dweltman

I last ran measurements on 2.4.17.


Do I need to remeasure? Is there any significant difference between the last beta and 3.0?


----------



## mikefl52

On the site it says 2.4 but if you follow that link it downloads 3.0. Just a matter of Anthem updating their site. A case of the more sophisticated a site gets the more work is required to maintain it.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/19277390
> 
> 
> I last ran measurements on 2.4.17.
> 
> 
> Do I need to remeasure? Is there any significant difference between the last beta and 3.0?



I believe they are the same, just a version number change.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/19277485
> 
> 
> On the site it says 2.4 but if you follow that link it downloads 3.0. Just a matter of Anthem updating their site. A case of the more sophisticated a site gets the more work is required to maintain it.



That's what I was saying, you can download it and v3.0 is in the folder. Not a big deal but a little annoying. Yes Bob, the link you posted does take you to the v3.0, thanks.

John


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I am trying to use this tool for the first time but I am encountering so many difficulties.

- Is the version included in ARC supporting the D2v?

- If so is it normal to get such a sluggish upload of settings to the D2v?

- Can this be improved?

- I am trying to build a custom Gamma curve. What kind of values are there in this tool? My calibration software is graduated from 0 to 100 IRE (see the pic  


Uploaded with ImageShack.us ). What is the parallel with the LVS editor?

- When you start tweaking the curve in LVS, how can you load defaults back because you can mess up things rapidly.


I just noticed that I also can correct my RGB curve, and I really need that. But again the values used are puzzling me.


Thanks


----------



## mikefl52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19277587
> 
> 
> That's what I was saying, you can download it and v3.0 is in the folder. Not a big deal but a little annoying. Yes Bob, the link you posted does take you to the v3.0, thanks.
> 
> John



Sorry John, I missed your post.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/19276458
> 
> 
> +10000
> 
> 
> I've got one of the oldest D2s with the doughnut transformer and green video board. Although I've wanted to try out 1.47 (especially after hearing about lots of little improvements), I don't dare brick the centerpiece of my theater.
> 
> 
> But, this weekend I have Arc 3.0 to play with!



I hear ya. My D2 has the red board but I don't know about the transformer.

Please post your impressions on ARC 3.0.

I downloaded but probably can't install this weekend.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikefl52* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry John, I missed your post.



Not a problem









John


----------



## Spridle1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19248337
> 
> 
> Download the ARC V3.0 install kit. Unzipped it. Copy the pair of licensing/calibration files from your original ARC install disc to the downloaded stuff in the same folder as the Setup.Exe (installer) program.
> 
> 
> Run Setup.Exe to install the new ARC Windows application. Reboot your PC.
> 
> 
> Do a new ARC setup using the new app.
> 
> 
> That's it.
> 
> 
> Expect better bass and better mid-range correction.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. My 2.0.1 corrected curves (green solid line) are already fitting the target curves (blue dotted line) nicely. Also the curves submitted by users recently with new arc are similar to curves with old arc. So, any ideas on what is contributing to better bass and better mid-range with 3.0? And what what do you find better about it (realizing your is subjective, or course)? Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spridle1* /forum/post/19278720
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. My 2.0.1 corrected curves (green solid line) are already fitting the target curves (blue dotted line) nicely. Also the curves submitted by users recently with new arc are similar to curves with old arc. So, any ideas on what is contributing to better bass and better mid-range with 3.0? And what what do you find better about it (realizing your is subjective, or course)? Thanks again.



It probably has something to do with Quantum.


Or possibly Magic.


They biased the allocation of resources more fully to the bass and low mid-range, and also got a bit more aggressive about supporting both the low and high end of subwoofers -- in particular, sub output below 25Hz for subs that can handle that.


When you do the ARC V3.0 setup, you'll likely see changes in the Target curves, as well as a good fit in the corrected results.


Also, if your current ARC is really as old as V2.0 then there have been bug fixes since then.

--Bob


----------



## J. FRICANO

Hello All,

Just read that PBK v2.0 is on the Anthem site (Haven't checked yet) Question is if I install v2.0 over beta 1.06, for my Sub1, will I have to remeasure with my current v3.0 ARC file? Thanks for your time , John Fricano.


----------



## 3no

Hello, everyone. I've been off this thread for a while, but now that ARC 3.0 is released I'm back looking for advice.


After installing ARC 3.0 I set the D2 noise level (to +3.5dB) and the sub's volume by following the recommended procedure (reproduced below). Ran thru the ARC procedure and came up with charts that were weren't bad, but the curves for all non-sub speakers were centered around 60dB.


Any ideas on what I might be doing wrong?


--------------------------------


Bob's recommended procedure which I followed:


Go into Setup > Level Calibration and zero out all lines. Set test mode to Manual in the first line. Drop down to Test Level -- the test noise will be coming from the LF speaker. Adjust the Test Level line to yield 75dB SPL measured at ARC mic position #1.


Do this with your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter -- set to "Slow" response and "C" weighting. Hold it arm's length, pointing straight up, at seated ear height but not adjacent to a reflective surface like a seat back.


Once you have adjusted Test Level, leave that line at that setting. Scroll down to a subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB, and instead adjust the volume control built into your subwoofer to once again achieve 75dB SPL measured the same way.


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19279074
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> Just read that PBK v2.0 is on the Anthem site (Haven't checked yet) Question is if I install v2.0 over beta 1.06, for my Sub1, will I have to remeasure with my current v3.0 ARC file? Thanks for your time , John Fricano.



1 more question. Is full release ARC v3.0 identical to beta v3.0, or should I replace it? Thanks again, John.


----------



## SimonNo10

Installed ARC 3.0 over the top of what I had being the latest non beta (before 3.0. This is the result see attached results.


Not sure if this is an improvement over before, I changed the centre to 80hz to match the mains but left the rears to 95hz and it followed the target curve closer than setting to 80hz. sub set to 80hz and i increased gain to 2.5 from .5 as set by ARC.


I will probably do it again as a slight weird sound was coming from the rear left surround again when the test sweep came through, can only be described as a vibrating sound but it's not from the room sounds like it's from the tone itself. The speaker is located right next to a heavy curtain. I got this same sound when i first did ARC but found I was missing a file (was the RecalibrationData.CAL) which I fixed and redid the cal and the sound went away.

When installing 3.0 over a previous version is there anything else you have to do? Also do you have to reset the speaker trims to "0" again before redoing the calibration or does ARC get turned off when you perform another ARC? Sorry if this has been asked before. Oh and on a side note i didn't reboot the pc before doing the cal with 3.0. Looks like I will be redoing it as I just read the post above that Bob posted about rebooting, maybe that sound I mentioned will go when I do this


----------



## budeone

I am going to install on Sunday. I hope this brings my volume levels back to normal.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 1 more question. Is full release ARC v3.0 identical to beta v3.0, or should I replace it? Thanks again, John.



They are identical.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> Just read that PBK v2.0 is on the Anthem site (Haven't checked yet) Question is if I install v2.0 over beta 1.06, for my Sub1, will I have to remeasure with my current v3.0 ARC file? Thanks for your time , John Fricano.



If you upload your new measurement using PBK v2.0, you definitely need to remeasure with ARC v3.0. A lot has changed in these two versions so remeasure. PBK is on the paradigm site not anthem.

John


----------



## SimonNo10

Redid a 6 position Calibration with 3.0 here are the results. Any comments would be appreciated to improve things or leave as is? I changed the crossovers to 80hz for all speakers and adjusted the gain to 2.0 from .56 something. ARC Set my speakers to 75hz for the fronts, 95hz for the centre and rears and 120hz for the subwoofer before I made the changes.


----------



## xtrips

Hello again,


I managed to understand how this tool works and found the relation between the scale it uses for the Gamma curves and the ones in use in my calibration software.

Still the software never finishes a Load procedure by itself. I almost always have to abort the Load command myself, eventually to find out that the modifications I have made have been loaded (or have they?).

Anyway because of the lack of acknowledgment on the software or the D2v part I am in doubt.

Is the curve loaded correctly? did I mess something up in the video settings?

I need your help here.


Thanks


----------



## erikno

Hello,


I installed the ARC 3.0 yesterday, and it's playing great. However, my levels are on the 64 db, not 75db. Ok, just to adjust the level calibration I thought. Well, I cannot get it higher than -15db. It will not move upwards, only go down. Any ideas anyone? Do I have to reset the whole machine?


Just for fun, I attached the graphs.


erikno


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I installed the ARC 3.0 yesterday, and it's playing great. However, my levels are on the 64 db, not 75db. Ok, just to adjust the level calibration I thought. Well, I cannot get it higher than -15db. It will not move upwards, only go down. Any ideas anyone? Do I have to reset the whole machine?
> 
> 
> Just for fun, I attached the graphs.
> 
> 
> erikno



Your graph looks excellent. Not sure how to fix vol level. Does this affect loudness when playing material?

John


----------



## dweltman

ARC 3.0 picks a Reference Level Offset of -1. Does that have any real meaning in terms of the correction? Why would it correct to 74 as opposed to 75?


----------



## Stevetd

I would appreciate any input from you guys that know what you're doing.







I usually figure this stuff out pretty quickly but, for some reason I'm having a hard time with ARC. I don't have as much time to dedicate to this stuff as I used to..... My problem may lie in the fact that I'm using an Axiom A1400-8 amp. I've read that a lot of people have had problems with Audyssey as I did also with an 80.1 and Pro. I have to trim the Test Level to -10.0dB to get it SPL to 75!! I have run ARC 3.0 twice and my bass is weak as pond water. I am using two JL f113s?? Anyway here are my charts. BTW, I'm using Def Tech 7001s for fronts and ARC is setting the crossover to 140! Thanks for your help.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ARC 3.0 picks a Reference Level Offset of -1. Does that have any real meaning in terms of the correction? Why would it correct to 74 as opposed to 75?



I have done many measurements with v3.0 and it is hit or miss whether I get 75dB. It fluctuates from 68-75 with no audible difference. Right now it's 75, and nothing in my room or in how I measure, has changed. That's why I ask, does it sound louder or softer with a certain master vol. level. If it doesn't, I wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## dweltman

I wish we had more info about what ARC "actually does".


1) When you do the 5 measurements, you are presumably getting info about the off-axis response of your speakers, but ARC is only showing you one curve. Is this the on-axis response? Or some combo of on- and off-axis response?


2) The recommendation of 5K is an interesting one. Several of us have commented about what we believe to be inaccurate measurements in the treble, while others, including Bob, believe they are getting accurate measurements up there. Why isn't the recommendation to stop correcting at 500k or so, which would theoretically be the transition frequency? Is using Room EQ to correct speaker response in the midrange a good idea?


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/19280784
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I installed the ARC 3.0 yesterday, and it's playing great. However, my levels are on the 64 db, not 75db. Ok, just to adjust the level calibration I thought. Well, I cannot get it higher than -15db. It will not move upwards, only go down. Any ideas anyone? Do I have to reset the whole machine?
> 
> 
> Just for fun, I attached the graphs.
> 
> 
> erikno



Erikno,

Go to Setup item 10 ( Volumes/Path Names ) and increase item c ( Main Max Volume ). I believe it is now set to -15dB. Simply increase it, say, to 0dB or higher.


Ben


----------



## J. FRICANO

Thank you very much John, I kind of figured as much so I did both. What a sustantial improvement! This is really sounding GREAT! Thanks again, John F


----------



## ebrabaek

First post here in this exhausting....but great thread...







.. I just got my D2v one month back....So this is the first time I have used hdmi to carry the sound. My prior Rotel rsp 1098 used Digital coax. All sounds amazingly good....and I just updated both the D2V and the arc to the current software versions. My question is this. I am experimenting with the arc, but have yet to turn it on, just because I have not devoted enough attention to set it up fully. This occurs when playing BD only. Levels are set up to 75db using the internal test tone.....Double checked with video essentials dvd....all clear. Subwoofer is a B&W asw4000.....BD player is a peasant Sony bdp-s350....I know...I know....waiting to hear from either of the new Denon`s....or jumping on the ever so popular oppo-83. When playing a BD only..( does not occur when playing regular dvd)... During a high LFE part of the movie........ I am rattling the room to pieces from the B&W.......So bad in fact....to the point that I have to turn the lfe down about 6 db...on the d2v. I have checked the d2v`s menu for any bass boost.....cant find any....and again it only occurs during BD....and same player did not do this with the rotel. So it must be native to the hdmi circuit. I have read that some players boost the lfe during hdmi bd playback....but my little player does not have any settings to denote such......But I have a feeling that it is the culprit here......Front bp7000 sc set to large.....center clr3000 to large as well...... all four surrounds to small.

Thanks


Erling


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/19281234
> 
> 
> Erikno,
> 
> Go to Setup item 10 ( Volumes/Path Names ) and increase item c ( Main Max Volume ). I believe it is now set to -15dB. Simply increase it, say, to 0dB or higher.
> 
> 
> Ben



That was going to be my suggestion too. However, I would increase Main Max Volume to +10 just in case you have to increase the test tone level to something over 0.0 Also, make sure you save user/installer settings after you do this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebrabaek* /forum/post/19281644
> 
> 
> First post here in this exhausting....but great thread...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. I just got my D2v one month back....So this is the first time I have used hdmi to carry the sound. My prior Rotel rsp 1098 used Digital coax. All sounds amazingly good....and I just updated both the D2V and the arc to the current software versions. My question is this. I am experimenting with the arc, but have yet to turn it on, just because I have not devoted enough attention to set it up fully. This occurs when playing BD only. Levels are set up to 75db using the internal test tone.....Double checked with video essentials dvd....all clear. Subwoofer is a B&W asw4000.....BD player is a peasant Sony bdp-s350....I know...I know....waiting to hear from either of the new Denon`s....or jumping on the ever so popular oppo-83. When playing a BD only..( does not occur when playing regular dvd)... During a high LFE part of the movie........ I am rattling the room to pieces from the B&W.......So bad in fact....to the point that I have to turn the lfe down about 6 db...on the d2v. I have checked the d2v`s menu for any bass boost.....cant find any....and again it only occurs during BD....and same player did not do this with the rotel. So it must be native to the hdmi circuit. I have read that some players boost the lfe during hdmi bd playback....but my little player does not have any settings to denote such......But I have a feeling that it is the culprit here......Front DT7000 sc set to large.....center clr3000 to large as well...... all four surrounds to small.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Erling



Odds are you just need to do your ARC setup. Your sub probably has a room resonance at about 50 Hz or so that your SPL meter is not hearing when you run the test tones. Subs can produce substantial output below the frequencies the SPL meter will pick up and if the sub output is not "flat" the SPL reading can be misleading.


When you play Blu-Ray discs into the Rotel via Optical, you are getting the lossy compatibility audio tracks, even though you have a high bit rate track selected on the disc (e.g. TrueHD or DTS-HD MA). Optical won't carry those because it has no copy protection. It is common for the high bit rate tracks to have more aggressive dynamics in the LFE.


In addition, go into Setup > Source Setup and make sure you have Dolby Volume OFF for every Source. Once you have your audio working the way you like, then you can go back and experiment with Dolby Volume if you like. Apparently Dolby wants Anthem to set it to ON in the factory defaults, so turning it OFF is something you need to do yourself.


Finally, make sure you don't have any of the "temporary" level adjustments active -- the ones you can set using the small buttons on the remote. To clear all of those in one go, enter Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue via the Front Panel display.

3) Reload Saved User Settings


The temporary level settings are not saved, so this resets all of them.


After you get the LFE level correct, look for a subwoofer buzz/rattle test on your calibration discs. This will run a bass sweep through the sub. You start with low volume and work up in volume to find and eliminate anything in your room that buzzes or rattles at various bass frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/19281180
> 
> 
> I wish we had more info about what ARC "actually does".
> 
> 
> 1) When you do the 5 measurements, you are presumably getting info about the off-axis response of your speakers, but ARC is only showing you one curve. Is this the on-axis response? Or some combo of on- and off-axis response?
> 
> 
> 2) The recommendation of 5K is an interesting one. Several of us have commented about what we believe to be inaccurate measurements in the treble, while others, including Bob, believe they are getting accurate measurements up there. Why isn't the recommendation to stop correcting at 500k or so, which would theoretically be the transition frequency? Is using Room EQ to correct speaker response in the midrange a good idea?



The red Measured curve is a simple, unweighted average of the data recorded for the set of mic positions for each speaker.


When ARC builds its solution, it knows how that will be implemented in the D2v and builds a mathematical model of that in the PC as well. As best I can figure out, the green Calculated curve is simply the result of passing the red Measured curve through that model.


As such the red and green curves don't represent what's happening at any given mic position.


In terms of the Measurements, you can use the new "Quick Measure" tool in the ARC application to see how the mic's Measured curve varies as you move the mic around for any given speaker. You can mentally average these to get a feel for what the red Measured curve will do when you run the normal ARC setup. For example, when you are using Quick Measure to position the sub, you can find candidate positions that look good using mic position #1, and then move the mic around to see how much variation you get. The ideal sub position will have good, uniform response at all mic positions, but of course that's tough to achieve, so you work to get it close to that ideal and then ARC takes it from there.


------------------------------------------


I think mid range correction is a good idea, but of course the proof is in what you hear.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/19280682
> 
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> 
> I managed to understand how this tool works and found the relation between the scale it uses for the Gamma curves and the ones in use in my calibration software.
> 
> Still the software never finishes a Load procedure by itself. I almost always have to abort the Load command myself, eventually to find out that the modifications I have made have been loaded (or have they?).
> 
> Anyway because of the lack of acknowledgment on the software or the D2v part I am in doubt.
> 
> Is the curve loaded correctly? did I mess something up in the video settings?
> 
> I need your help here.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Give Anthem tech support a call. They might have some clue as to what's impacting your serial communications to the D2v.


If you have another computer to use, transfer the file to it and try uploading from that one.


If you are using RS-232 for remote control (e.g., Crestron), be sure to reset the RS-232 stuff in Setup back to the normal defaults before using Anthem's PC applications. See the picture of that menu in the Manual.


ALSO, there are very few people posting here on their experiences using the Custom Gamma Correction stuff available in Live Video Settings Editor. In fact the last person who wrote this up was, I believe, using a D2! So it would be helpful to others if you could write up what you did and what you learned. Tricks like the conversion factor you just mentioned for example.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/19281070
> 
> 
> ARC 3.0 picks a Reference Level Offset of -1. Does that have any real meaning in terms of the correction? Why would it correct to 74 as opposed to 75?



We are still trying to figure that out. If you find an answer, please post it.


One suggestion is that ARC is biasing the preset target calibration level (e.g., 75dB) according to the lowest dip it finds in the main speakers. (The theory being it is always better to cut peaks than to boost dips when doing corrections.) But I find it hard to believe a 1dB change would be useful if that's the case.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks who like the Oppo Blu-Ray players, be advised that Oppo has let slip that there is a new BDP-93 coming, and possibly even a BDP-95. Apparently the 93 may ship before the end of the year. The current BDP-80 and BDP-83 models are already "discontinued". The BDP-83SE model is still in production.


Oppo is busy fending off requests for more details. But what's leaked so far is being discussed in the Blu-Ray Players forum here.


(I am a Beta tester for Oppo products, but I can't disclose anything they have not already made public beyond that fact.)

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19282068
> 
> 
> For folks who like the Oppo Blu-Ray players, be advised that Oppo has let slip that there is a new BDP-93 coming, and possibly even a BDP-95. Apparently the 93 may ship before the end of the year. The current BDP-80 and BDP-83 models are already "discontinued". The BDP-83SE model is still in production.
> 
> 
> Oppo is busy fending off requests for more details. But what's leaked so far is being discussed in the Blu-Ray Players forum here.
> 
> 
> (I am a Beta tester for Oppo products, but I can't disclose anything they have not already made public beyond that fact.)
> 
> --Bob



Guys,


You can read more about the new Oppo here -

http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/t...ay/oppo-bdp-93 


Ben


----------



## ebrabaek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19281985
> 
> Odds are you just need to do your ARC setup. Your sub probably has a room resonance at about 50 Hz or so that your SPL meter is not hearing when you run the test tones. Subs can produce substantial output below the frequencies the SPL meter will pick up and if the sub output is not "flat" the SPL reading can be misleading.
> I tried that.....It does not make any difference with or without the arc.......Room is rattled to pieces....And I can tollerate bass.....But this is almost like alfe boost
> 
> 
> 
> When you play Blu-Ray discs into the Rotel via Optical, you are getting the lossy compatibility audio tracks, even though you have a high bit rate track selected on the disc (e.g. TrueHD or DTS-HD MA). Optical won't carry those because it has no copy protection. It is common for the high bit rate tracks to have more aggressive dynamics in the LFE.
> I actually used digital coax....But your right.....This is my first experience with lossless....in either dts or dd format....and I must say I`m very impressed.
> 
> 
> In addition, go into Setup > Source Setup and make sure you have Dolby Volume OFF for every Source. Once you have your audio working the way you like, then you can go back and experiment with Dolby Volume if you like. Apparently Dolby wants Anthem to set it to ON in the factory defaults, so turning it OFF is something you need to do yourself.
> Your not kidding.... That was one of the first things I did.....Again ...after the new software upload....It was reset again. You wonder what they were thinking....
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, make sure you don't have any of the "temporary" level adjustments active -- the ones you can set using the small buttons on the remote. To clear all of those in one go, enter Setup and:
> 
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 
> 2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue via the Front Panel display.
> 
> 3) Reload Saved User Settings
> 
> 
> The temporary level settings are not saved, so this resets all of them.
> Yep...all done like you said....
> 
> 
> 
> After you get the LFE level correct, look for a subwoofer buzz/rattle test on your calibration discs. This will run a bass sweep through the sub. You start with low volume and work up in volume to find and eliminate anything in your room that buzzes or rattles at various bass frequencies.
> 
> --Bob



I first sat the levels with my spl meter at 75db....then the rattle test without the arc was a little elevated below 30 hz....... But this is sort of a mega boost of around 6db....perhaps as high as 8db..... Only on BD.....same player on dvd.....no boost...... The cheapo 3Sony 350 was an early player, and I am suspecting that it has a lfe boost when playing bd`s. The sound from this d2v is astonishing....with or without the arc...... If I can just get that crazy boost off..... I`m thinking a new player at the end of this year....... I dont think it`s a setting in the d2v.....since it`s native to either loss less format only. I think that if something was missed in the d2v setup....it would show when same player run a standard dvd......










Erling


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19282027
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call. They might have some clue as to what's impacting your serial communications to the D2v.
> 
> 
> If you have another computer to use, transfer the file to it and try uploading from that one.
> 
> 
> If you are using RS-232 for remote control (e.g., Crestron), be sure to reset the RS-232 stuff in Setup back to the normal defaults before using Anthem's PC applications. See the picture of that menu in the Manual.
> 
> 
> ALSO, there are very few people posting here on their experiences using the Custom Gamma Correction stuff available in Live Video Settings Editor. In fact the last person who wrote this up was, I believe, using a D2! So it would be helpful to others if you could write up what you did and what you learned. Tricks like the conversion factor you just mentioned for example.
> 
> --Bob



With pleasure! If i can contribute to this forum for once instead of leeching I'll gladly do it.


Actually it is simpler than i thought. The only glitch as i described it is a very hectic connection through RS-232. I am using a USB-to-COM adapter though but who doesn't nowadays, since all the COM ports have disappeared from laptops? So for the connection i will check with Anthem.


About what it does...

You can build 2 different custom Gamma curves, apart from the more standard exponent ones.

The custom 1 has an effect on the known exponential curve, so you can add or lower luminance at certain points (IRE). Now the graph is not graduated in IREs for some reason that I will have to ask but in fact they match, I mean 50IRE is around the 500 on the graph.

The tool is pretty clumsy so it trial and error but on the other hand it is very effective and the result was very impressive.

My projector is an Epson 9500UB and when using a high light output preset the Gamma is pretty distorted. And my proj settings were off limits.

Thanks to the d2v I managed to get an almost flat response at 2.4 which is what i needed.


The custom 2 is much more extensive since it has an effect on the RGB or Grayscale balance. Note that you can use either Custom 1 or 2 for each output, not both.

The principle is the same. Each color has its curve and you can fine tune the correction to incredible lengths.

If only the tool was more "mature" that would unleash incredible possibilities.

For example my proj has flaws inherent to its place on the market. It has good performances if you don't push it too much. But if like me you need more light or better contrast then you start to see its limits. For every important setting in a calibration you might be off limits. This is where a powerful video processor can help.


I hope this helped. I will keep on inquiring about this tool i think.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebrabaek* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I first sat the levels with my spl meter at 75db....then the rattle test without the arc was a little elevated below 30 hz....... But this is sort of a mega boost of around 6db....perhaps as high as 8db..... Only on BD.....same player on dvd.....no boost...... The cheapo 3Sony 350 was an early player, and I am suspecting that it has a lfe boost when playing bd`s. The sound from this d2v is astonishing....with or without the arc...... If I can just get that crazy boost off..... I`m thinking a new player at the end of this year....... I dont think it`s a setting in the d2v.....since it`s native to either loss less format only. I think that if something was missed in the d2v setup....it would show when same player run a standard dvd......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Erling



Post your ARC charts and we can see if anything strange is going on. It could be the player I suppose although I don't recall a complaint like that. The common fault in players is LFE too low.


Remember that you must have Room EQ ON for each Source to enable ARC. And Save your User/Installer settings after an ARC Upload so you can't accidentally undo that Upload.


Get the AIX audio calibration Blu-Ray and you can test whether LFE from TrueHD and DTS-HD MA tracks is being handled correctly by the player. Use your SPL meter for that; if the player has it wrong it will be wrong for all LFE frequencies so the meter will be a reliable test of that.


If the player can both Bitstream those tracks and decode them to LPCM try both. Perhaps the problem only happens one way.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19274897
> 
> 
> I agree - but I have FOUR Theaters with one Blu-Ray in each



WOW!!!! Do you have 4 D2v's also?


Please list your equipment, I'm impressed


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/19281127
> 
> 
> I would appreciate any input from you guys that know what you're doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I usually figure this stuff out pretty quickly but, for some reason I'm having a hard time with ARC. I don't have as much time to dedicate to this stuff as I used to..... My problem may lie in the fact that I'm using an Axiom A1400-8 amp. I've read that a lot of people have had problems with Audyssey as I did also with an 80.1 and Pro. I have to trim the Test Level to -10.0dB to get it SPL to 75!! I have run ARC 3.0 twice and my bass is weak as pond water. I am using two JL f113s?? Anyway here are my charts. BTW, I'm using Def Tech 7001s for fronts and ARC is setting the crossover to 140! Thanks for your help.



Any thoughts?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/19281361
> 
> 
> Thank you very much John, I kind of figured as much so I did both. What a sustantial improvement! This is really sounding GREAT! Thanks again, John F



Glad it's working for you, enjoy









John


----------



## SimonNo10

Hey guys. Could someone have a look at my graphs posted 1 page back and comment please. I watched Hulk last night on BD and it sounded great, bass was powerful and deep. I've read users mentioning that ARC sets the number of subs automatically to 2? Is that the tick box on the far right (next to the rears tick box but more to the right)) on it's own in the setup window? I thought that was for the rear surrounds but noticed that already has it's own tick box so I'm guessing the other one is for how many subs we have? Sorry if that's a dumb question.


Also reading a seeing users talking about this 5hz setting, how does one adjust this? With ARC 3.0 and calibrating levels to achieve 75db before running ARC, are most users using the internal test tones and setting the main volume on the D2v to "0" and then adjust accordingly? I'm using an analog SPL Meter on a tripod with C-weight slow response.


----------



## ebrabaek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19282931
> 
> 
> Post your ARC charts and we can see if anything strange is going on. It could be the player I suppose although I don't recall a complaint like that. The common fault in players is LFE too low.
> 
> 
> Remember that you must have Room EQ ON for each Source to enable ARC. And Save your User/Installer settings after an ARC Upload so you can't accidentally undo that Upload.
> 
> 
> Get the AIX audio calibration Blu-Ray and you can test whether LFE from TrueHD and DTS-HD MA tracks is being handled correctly by the player. Use your SPL meter for that; if the player has it wrong it will be wrong for all LFE frequencies so the meter will be a reliable test of that.
> 
> 
> If the player can both Bitstream those tracks and decode them to LPCM try both. Perhaps the problem only happens one way.
> 
> --Bob



I will get the disc you speak of...... I`m not sure as of how to post the graphs.....







....... I will look into that as well.

Your help is always appreciated Bob.


Thanks


Erling


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ebrabaek* /forum/post/19283272
> 
> 
> I will get the disc you speak of...... I`m not sure as of how to post the graphs.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....... I will look into that as well.
> 
> Your help is always appreciated Bob.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Erling



Look here for the disc:

http://www.aixrecords.com/catalog/oppo_bd.html 


Look here for one way to post charts:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post17277604 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19283245
> 
> 
> Hey guys. Could someone have a look at my graphs posted 1 page back and comment please. I watched Hulk last night on BD and it sounded great, bass was powerful and deep. I've read users mentioning that ARC sets the number of subs automatically to 2? Is that the tick box on the far right (next to the rears tick box but more to the right)) on it's own in the setup window? I thought that was for the rear surrounds but noticed that already has it's own tick box so I'm guessing the other one is for how many subs we have? Sorry if that's a dumb question.
> 
> 
> Also reading a seeing users talking about this 5hz setting, how does one adjust this? With ARC 3.0 and calibrating levels to achieve 75db before running ARC, are most users using the internal test tones and setting the main volume on the D2v to "0" and then adjust accordingly? I'm using an analog SPL Meter on a tripod with C-weight slow response.



You have to set "1 Sub" in the D2v yourself. If you are using ARC, set "1 Sub" even if you happen to have more than 1 subwoofer.


The Max EQ Frequency setting is in the Targets window in the ARC application. It sets the upper limit for how far ARC will apply correction. The default is 5KHz.


The test tones in Setup > Level Calibration are independent of whatever volume setting you have in effect when you use them. They correspond to what the Anthem will produce as output when "reference level" audio input is played at a main volume setting of -10dB. Be aware that peak levels can easily be 15dB higher than "reference level". And yes those are the tones you use to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level and your subwoofer's volume knob before you set up ARC for the first time.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19279407
> 
> 
> Installed ARC 3.0 over the top of what I had being the latest non beta (before 3.0. This is the result see attached results.
> 
> 
> Not sure if this is an improvement over before, I changed the centre to 80hz to match the mains but left the rears to 95hz and it followed the target curve closer than setting to 80hz. sub set to 80hz and i increased gain to 2.5 from .5 as set by ARC.
> 
> 
> I will probably do it again as a slight weird sound was coming from the rear left surround again when the test sweep came through, can only be described as a vibrating sound but it's not from the room sounds like it's from the tone itself. The speaker is located right next to a heavy curtain. I got this same sound when i first did ARC but found I was missing a file (was the RecalibrationData.CAL) which I fixed and redid the cal and the sound went away.
> 
> When installing 3.0 over a previous version is there anything else you have to do? Also do you have to reset the speaker trims to "0" again before redoing the calibration or does ARC get turned off when you perform another ARC? Sorry if this has been asked before. Oh and on a side note i didn't reboot the pc before doing the cal with 3.0. Looks like I will be redoing it as I just read the post above that Bob posted about rebooting, maybe that sound I mentioned will go when I do this



You've got more residual error than I'm happy with in the charts you posted. I'm not sure whether some of that is coming from the Targets changes you made, as your LF Measures weak around 150Hz and your Center has problems there as well and also down into bass. Raising Room Gain will make a good solution harder unless you can fix those -- perhaps by speaker repositioning.


Make a copy of this file, open the copy, go into Targets and do an Auto Detect which will restore ARC's original choices. Accept that, re-Calculate, and post those charts.


The noise you are hearing from one speaker could be a sign you have a torn cone. Or perhaps something is buzzing near the speaker. It is not showing as a problem in the Measured curve, so perhaps you imagined it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/19281127
> 
> 
> I would appreciate any input from you guys that know what you're doing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I usually figure this stuff out pretty quickly but, for some reason I'm having a hard time with ARC. I don't have as much time to dedicate to this stuff as I used to..... My problem may lie in the fact that I'm using an Axiom A1400-8 amp. I've read that a lot of people have had problems with Audyssey as I did also with an 80.1 and Pro. I have to trim the Test Level to -10.0dB to get it SPL to 75!! I have run ARC 3.0 twice and my bass is weak as pond water. I am using two JL f113s?? Anyway here are my charts. BTW, I'm using Def Tech 7001s for fronts and ARC is setting the crossover to 140! Thanks for your help.



From your charts I'm going to guess that your LF/RF and C speakers are being processed through some sort of external crossover that is in the signal path between the D2v and the speakers.


If that's true, you need to undo that and rewire things so that each of your speakers can get the full range of frequencies from the D2v outputs.


Your 4 Surround speakers appear to be wired correctly.


Another possibility is that LF/RF and C have powered woofers that need to be turned on. Basically all 3 of these aren't producing bass.


Your sub itself looks fine, but if you've got some sort of convoluted wiring scheme where signals are going through the sub before getting to the mains or some such then you need to rethink that.

--Bob


----------



## RIppolito

Sorry if this has already been asked...


Does the new firmware release also work on the AVM 50, or is it only for the .v hardware?


Thanks in advance,

Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/19283620
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has already been asked...
> 
> 
> Does the new firmware release also work on the AVM 50, or is it only for the .v hardware?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Ron



ARC V3.0 is a Windows application. It can be used to produce ARC setups for the original AVM 50 running firmware V1.33 (or running later "test" firmware) presuming your AVM 50 has had the DSP processor upgrade so that it supports ARC at all. I.e., if you've got an ARC license for your AVM 50.


The recently released V2.10 firmware, on the other hand, is only for the D2v and AVM 50v.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19283631
> 
> 
> ARC V3.0 is a Windows application. It can be used to produce ARC setups for the original AVM 50 running firmware V1.33 (or running later "test" firmware) presuming your AVM 50 has had the DSP processor upgrade so that it supports ARC at all. I.e., if you've got an ARC license for your AVM 50.
> 
> 
> The recently released V2.10 firmware, on the other hand, is only for the D2v and AVM 50v.
> 
> --Bob




Also for D1 owners.


----------



## erikno




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/19281234
> 
> 
> Erikno,
> 
> Go to Setup item 10 ( Volumes/Path Names ) and increase item c ( Main Max Volume ). I believe it is now set to -15dB. Simply increase it, say, to 0dB or higher.
> 
> 
> Ben



Great! and it worked! Haven't got around to do new measurements, but finnally I realised what "went wrong". My adjustment of the max volume came after last years party when some of my friends had played with different volume knobs (I also have a volume knob on my cd player), so changing from cd to blue ray, well killed off some of my valves on the power amplifier... (now replaced with a 2 x350 W transistor, wich _can_ deal with the bass







).


As a result, I went in to the menue in the D2v and adjusted down the max volume to decrease any possibility of this happening again with good friends...


erikno


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/19284415
> 
> 
> Great! and it worked! Haven't got around to do new measurements, but finnally I realised what "went wrong". My adjustment of the max volume came after last years party when some of my friends had played with different volume knobs (I also have a volume knob on my cd player), so changing from cd to blue ray, well killed off some of my valves on the power amplifier... (now replaced with a 2 x350 W transistor, wich _can_ deal with the bass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> As a result, I went in to the menue in the D2v and adjusted down the max volume to decrease any possibility of this happening again with good friends...
> 
> 
> erikno



Erikno,


Glad it worked for you. Credit must go to Bob who set me on the right path when I had this same issue recently.


Ben


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> You've got more residual error than I'm happy with in the charts you posted. I'm not sure whether some of that is coming from the Targets changes you made, as your LF Measures weak around 150Hz and your Center has problems there as well and also down into bass. Raising Room Gain will make a good solution harder unless you can fix those -- perhaps by speaker repositioning.
> 
> 
> Make a copy of this file, open the copy, go into Targets and do an Auto Detect which will restore ARC's original choices. Accept that, re-Calculate, and post those charts.
> 
> 
> The noise you are hearing from one speaker could be a sign you have a torn cone. Or perhaps something is buzzing near the speaker. It is not showing as a problem in the Measured curve, so perhaps you imagined it.



Ok Bob did as you instructed here are the graphs that ARC originally did. Also that sound I'm hearing is very much there but only comes out of that speaker. Can't see it being a torn cone there brand new. Will swap the surround speakers around and see if it does it to the other speaker. Only way to be sure.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Ok Bob did as you instructed here are the graphs that ARC originally did. Also that sound I'm hearing is very much there but only comes out of that speaker. Can't see it being a torn cone there brand new. Will swap the surround speakers around and see if it does it to the other speaker. Only way to be sure.



These original results look better. You can't raise Room Gain until you fix that Measured hole in LF near 200 Hz. Try using Quick Measure while you reposition it. I suggest moving it a bit farther away from the wall/corner behind it. Remember that you need to Upload ARC results or restore them from Saved User/Installer Settings afterwards.


You can also use Quick Measure to check that speaker noise problem.


Note that there is no problem having different Cutoff values for the different speakers.

--Bob


----------



## daren_p

I don't have my ARC results here but it seems a few others have posted this issue as well & was wondering if a cause has been found? When I measured with V3 my charts also came out ~65db, with the previous version (CD version I got a couple months back), the graphs were ~ 75db.


Before I took V3 measurments, I zero'd all the trim levels & measured the main level (or left front) & adjusted to get 75 db with a digital sound meter. Then adjusted my sub gain knob level to get a 75db level as well. I believe my max volume level is set at +30 (I've never changed this).


I don't think the actual volume is different from previous ARC adjustments (well atleast not a large enough difference to tell from typical listening) but I see alot of posted charts are centered around 80-85db & was curious why mine are coming up different? (did read above, some users experiendced graph level changes without any other changes, other then a remeasure)


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19283564
> 
> 
> From your charts I'm going to guess that your LF/RF and C speakers are being processed through some sort of external crossover that is in the signal path between the D2v and the speakers.
> 
> 
> If that's true, you need to undo that and rewire things so that each of your speakers can get the full range of frequencies from the D2v outputs.
> 
> 
> Your 4 Surround speakers appear to be wired correctly.
> 
> 
> Another possibility is that LF/RF and C have powered woofers that need to be turned on. Basically all 3 of these aren't producing bass.
> 
> 
> Your sub itself looks fine, but if you've got some sort of convoluted wiring scheme where signals are going through the sub before getting to the mains or some such then you need to rethink that.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, you're right, the Def Tech 7001s have built in powered subs. The speakers also have built in crossover circuitry that kicks in when you just run regular speaker wires to them. They also have an LFE connection that when used disables that feature. I was totally not thinking when I took that out of the equation when I added the JL's. On top of that I turned the volume knob on the back of the speakers down to the 9 0'clock position thinking that I would let the JL's handle everything down low. That's why ARC thinks they're really small.


I'm assuming that I should reconnect the LFE on the speakers, use my RS meter to get all four subs at 75dB and then re-run ARC?


I still can't figure out why the centers are off. I'm using two Def Tech ProCenter 2000s with a frequency response rated at 42hz-30khz connected directly to my amp. Thanks for your help.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> These original results look better. You can't raise Room Gain until you fix that Measured hole in LF near 200 Hz. Try using Quick Measure while you reposition it. I suggest moving it a bit farther away from the wall/corner behind it. Remember that you need to Upload ARC results or restore them from Saved User/Installer Settings afterwards.
> 
> 
> You can also use Quick Measure to check that speaker noise problem.
> 
> 
> Note that there is no problem having different Cutoff values for the different speakers.



Thanks for that Bob.At the moment my sub is along side of a wall the amp facing the wall and one woofer facing towards the room the other towards the right main speaker. I am room restricted unfortunatly but will move it away from the wall as far as I can and do a quick measure. The Seaton Submersive isn't light so may need someone to assist me to achieve this.



> Quote:
> fix that Measured hole in LF near 200 Hz



I will be honest with you I don't understand what to look for in these graphs. All I see is ARC correcting my sub to follow the target curve (blue line) as best it can and from my graph it's achieving this. I don't see this hole near 200hz that you mentioned but as I said I don't know how to interpret these graphs like you can. Sorry I don't mean to make your life harder I'm still learning with this new Pre-pro. What should the bass graph look like with a good result where one would just leave it and enjoy?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19287878
> 
> 
> Thanks for that Bob.At the moment my sub is along side of a wall the amp facing the wall and one woofer facing towards the room the other towards the right main speaker. I am room restricted unfortunatly but will move it away from the wall as far as I can and do a quick measure. The Seaton Submersive isn't light so may need someone to assist me to achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be honest with you I don't understand what to look for in these graphs. All I see is ARC correcting my sub to follow the target curve (blue line) as best it can and from my graph it's achieving this. I don't see this hole near 200hz that you mentioned but as I said I don't know how to interpret these graphs like you can. Sorry I don't mean to make your life harder I'm still learning with this new Pre-pro. What should the bass graph look like with a good result where one would just leave it and enjoy?



The sub is not the problem. You don't have to do anything with the sub.


The problem is your Left Front speaker.


Look at the red Measured curve for LF and compare to the black dashed Target curve for it. See how much Measured is below Target near 200Hz? That's more than ARC can correct, particularly if you make the problem harder by asking ARC to add Room Gain (i.e., raise the Target even further).


Look to find a better positioning for LF that cures that hole; that deficit in the Measured curve near 200Hz (from 100Hz to 500Hz).

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Right. Sorry I interpreted LF as Life meaning the sub. Yes I've had this issue when I used to run Audyssey Pro Cal with the NAD T-175 pre-pro. It also showed a problem with it's positioning so I was told to move it back as far as I could to the back wall, it improved things a little. As far as repositioning it well I can't other than moving it forward a little as it's sitting right next to the french bi-fold doors which open into the main hall and front door. The only thing I could do is raise it or lower it in height using different stands other than that i have no other options.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19288132
> 
> 
> Right. Sorry I interpreted LF as Life meaning the sub. Yes I've had this issue when I used to run Audyssey Pro Cal with the NAD T-175 pre-pro. It also showed a problem with it's positioning so I was told to move it back as far as I could to the back wall, it improved things a little. As far as repositioning it well I can't other than moving it forward a little as it's sitting right next to the french bi-fold doors which open into the main hall and front door. The only thing I could do is raise it or lower it in height using different stands other than that i have no other options.



The solution ARC is giving you now is a good one. Your space doesn't really have any inherent Room Gain that I can see by eyeball. Since you can't raise Room Gain without screwing up the solution it's probably best to stick with what your room is already doing.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks.When I had a HAA guy come around a few years back now we tested some first reflection points by placing one accoustic panel next to each main speaker. This improved things allot but due to my room being what it is I was only able to place 2 of these panels on a wall next to the main right speaker. As mentioned the left speaker is right next to bi-fold doors leading into hallway so I can't place any panels next to or beside the left speaker. I also have 2 diffusor panels on the back wall right behind the main listening position which was recommended by the HAA guy. Also have 3 bass traps (foam) behind in corners of each main speaker.


As money permits I will get him over again and see what other solutions we can come up with in order to getting the room sounding great. I'm single and live on my own so WAF is not a factor







.


Thanks for your input it's been invaluable as always.


----------



## glennQNYC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm single and live on my own so WAF is not a factor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Ok guys, I've run into something I can't figure out. I need a work around so I can listen to music and watch TV at the same time.


I have an Anthem D2, HD PVR (HDMI), Oppo BD83 (HDMI) and Xbox 360 (HDMI)


When entertaining we'd like to listen to music and be able to have a hockey or football on at the same time. I use my Xbox as a media center. I tried running HDMI and an optical cable out of the 360. I went optical into the D2 in opt 1 and assigned AUX as video HDMI 1 (sat rec) and audio Opt1. I get video but no audio.


All I want to do is get music off my computer (I'd even use a usb drive) to play while I have a game on the display. I hate having to look at the xbox menu all night long when we entertain.


HELP!


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/19288495
> 
> 
> Ok guys, I've run into something I can't figure out. I need a work around so I can listen to music and watch TV at the same time.
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem D2, HD PVR (HDMI), Oppo BD83 (HDMI) and Xbox 360 (HDMI)
> 
> 
> When entertaining we'd like to listen to music and be able to have a hockey or football on at the same time. I use my Xbox as a media center. I tried running HDMI and an optical cable out of the 360. I went optical into the D2 in opt 1 and assigned AUX as video HDMI 1 (sat rec) and audio Opt1. I get video but no audio.
> 
> 
> All I want to do is get music off my computer (I'd even use a usb drive) to play while I have a game on the display. I hate having to look at the xbox menu all night long when we entertain.
> 
> 
> HELP!



see section 4.4.2 of the Anthem manual for Simulcast which allows one video source and a different audio. You'll have to make a connection that is not HDMI.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19288527
> 
> 
> see section 4.4.2 of the Anthem manual for Simulcast which allows one video source and a different audio. You'll have to make a connection that is not HDMI.



That's what I feared!


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Removing HDMI isn't really an option. What would you recommend for a product to use so I could do this. Or is there NO OPTION as long as HDMI is in use?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/19288495
> 
> 
> Ok guys, I've run into something I can't figure out. I need a work around so I can listen to music and watch TV at the same time.
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem D2, HD PVR (HDMI), Oppo BD83 (HDMI) and Xbox 360 (HDMI)
> 
> 
> When entertaining we'd like to listen to music and be able to have a hockey or football on at the same time. I use my Xbox as a media center. I tried running HDMI and an optical cable out of the 360. I went optical into the D2 in opt 1 and assigned AUX as video HDMI 1 (sat rec) and audio Opt1. I get video but no audio.
> 
> 
> All I want to do is get music off my computer (I'd even use a usb drive) to play while I have a game on the display. I hate having to look at the xbox menu all night long when we entertain.
> 
> 
> HELP!



What you are trying to do is straightforward and should work fine. HDMI video with NON-HDMI audio is OK. HDMI audio with video from anything other than that very same HDMI cable is not OK. (HDMI audio is embedded in the "blanking intervals of HDMI video. There is only one video processor and if you are using it to extract audio from an HDMI input you can't process video from anything else.)


Anyway, what you tried to do -- HDMI video from the PVR and optical audio from the XBOX -- should work. So if it isn't working there is likely a simple mistake.


Typical simple mistakes would be:


1) You don't have the optical cable plugged into the optical socket you think you have.


2) You have not set the XBOX correctly to output audio on optical.


3) You are using triggers to turn on your amps and you don't have the triggers set up properly to activate when using this new Source definition.

--Bob


----------



## KenLand

Hi,


I'm having an HDMI issue with my D2 and HTPC.


When my projector is turned on, I set my resolution to 1920x1080p and all is well. But some while after my I turn my projector off or if my projector is not turned on when I start my PC then I get 1280x720p.


(PJ is HDMI out, HTPC is HMMI in)


Is there any way to tell the D2 to tell the HDMI source that the display is a certain resolution? (like 1080p) Or keep the last EDID info or something?


If not, any other suggestions?

Anyone know why it would revert to 720p?

I'm not certain my firmware level, but it's only been 12-18 mos. since I updated to the latest.


Thanks,

Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/19289190
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I'm having an HDMI issue with my D2 and HTPC.
> 
> 
> When my projector is turned on, I set my resolution to 1920x1080p and all is well. But some while after my I turn my projector off or if my projector is not turned on when I start my PC then I get 1280x720p.
> 
> 
> (PJ is HDMI out, HTPC is HMMI in)
> 
> 
> Is there any way to tell the D2 to tell the HDMI source that the display is a certain resolution? (like 1080p) Or keep the last EDID info or something?
> 
> 
> If not, any other suggestions?
> 
> Anyone know why it would revert to 720p?
> 
> I'm not certain my firmware level, but it's only been 12-18 mos. since I updated to the latest.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



A number of people have had good luck with the Gefen HDMI Detective which allows you to record an EDID and present that later. Typically that goes between the HTPC and the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/19286228
> 
> 
> Bob, you’re right, the Def Tech 7001s have built in powered subs. The speakers also have built in crossover circuitry that kicks in when you just run regular speaker wires to them. They also have an LFE connection that when used disables that feature. I was totally not thinking when I took that out of the equation when I added the JL’s. On top of that I turned the volume knob on the back of the speakers down to the 9 0’clock position thinking that I would let the JL’s handle everything down low. That’s why ARC thinks they’re really small.
> 
> 
> I’m assuming that I should reconnect the LFE on the speakers, use my RS meter to get all four subs at 75dB and then re-run ARC?
> 
> 
> I still can’t figure out why the centers are off. I’m using two Def Tech ProCenter 2000s with a frequency response rated at 42hz-30khz connected directly to my amp. Thanks for your help.



Wire and set up each speaker as if it is going to be used "full range". ARC will find out what each speaker is capable of doing, and will use it to that extent.


Speakers that have powered woofers should be treated as if those powered woofers are part of the speaker, not a sort of subwoofer.


Think of it this way, the powered woofer or satellite sub attached to the Left Front speaker should only produce sound that is output on the LF output of the D2v. *NOT* the sub output as well or instead.


That means the powered woofers should *NOT* be wired to the sub output of the D2v. They should be wired to the speaker output of that channel's amp. The volume of the powered woofers, and the built-in crossover between them and the attached speaker, should be set to match the attached speaker -- NOT any subwoofer in your setup. You are building a combo main speaker which includes that powered woofer, and that's the way you should think of it. So the woofer has to mesh well with the other drivers of that specific speaker, not any other speaker or sub. If the other drivers in the main speaker are low volume then the powered woofer must also be low volume, and its crossover must work with the other drivers in that specific speaker to make for a good, "full range" speaker. The powered woofer is phase matched against the other drivers in that specific speaker as part of its built-in crossover setup.


Meanwhile, any standalone subwoofer(s) you have should be wired to the sub output of the D2v. They should *NOT* be wired to receive signals from any main speaker channel. I.e., there should be no wire between the standalone sub and anything but the D2v's sub output. Subs are separately volume adjusted so that the combo produces 75dB. For example, with 2 subwoofers, you typically set each alone to produce 72dB. Subs are also separately phase matched to the main speakers (usually using the LF speaker as a surrogate for all the mains). Any crossover in the sub should be disabled so that the sub reproduces frequencies as high as possible. Similarly, subsonic filtering should be disabled so the sub can go as low as possible. (Subsonic filters are also described as removing excess low bass when a sub is positioned close to a wall or corner.) This allows ARC to measure what the subs can actually do.


As for your Center speaker, double check that the bass input binding posts on that speaker are actually wired properly. The connection to them may have come loose. Failing that, if the woofer in Center is powered it may have blown a fuse.


Movie mixes can't assume the user will have a sub so they have to put substantial bass in the main speakers and that usually gets put in the Center channel. Which is why it is rather common for Center speakers to get blown out.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok decided to move my front mains closer in to the screen to see if that made any difference to that 200hz hole on the left front speaker here are the results.


Don't think it made much difference to the LF. What do you think Bob?


----------



## SMabille_UK

Hi,


Just did a new set of measures and uploaded a new profile with ARC 3.0 on my AVM50v 2.10 European version and the clock has been modified.


I'm not (too) worried about resetting the clock, but I'm wondering if some useful data has been put in the wrong place...


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19289602
> 
> 
> Ok decided to move my front mains closer in to the screen to see if that made any difference to that 200hz hole on the left front speaker here are the results.
> 
> 
> Don't think it made much difference to the LF. What do you think Bob?



can you swap the fronts to make sure it isn't a speaker issue - i had a hole like this & the internal crossover was bad in 1 front

(a long shot as both show the dip)


mark


----------



## KenLand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19289199
> 
> 
> A number of people have had good luck with the Gefen HDMI Detective which allows you to record an EDID and present that later. Typically that goes between the HTPC and the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob




Can't believe the Anthem doesn't maintain the last used EDID or allow you to select what rez each input sources sees.


Is this true for the D2v as well?


Thanks Bob!


----------



## Texas steve

I have a Gefen DVI Detective Plus that I used once if anyone is intrested just PM me. I used it in a different system so I no longer need it and glad to help.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/19290181
> 
> 
> Can't believe the Anthem doesn't maintain the last used EDID or allow you to select what rez each input sources sees.
> 
> 
> Is this true for the D2v as well?
> _A number of people have had good luck with the Gefen HDMI Detective which allows you to record an EDID and present that later. Typically that goes between the HTPC and the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob_
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob!


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19289446
> 
> 
> Wire and set up each speaker as if it is going to be used "full range". ARC will find out what each speaker is capable of doing, and will use it to that extent.
> 
> 
> Speakers that have powered woofers should be treated as if those powered woofers are part of the speaker, not a sort of subwoofer.
> 
> 
> Think of it this way, the powered woofer or satellite sub attached to the Left Front speaker should only produce sound that is output on the LF output of the D2v. *NOT* the sub output as well or instead.
> 
> 
> That means the powered woofers should *NOT* be wired to the sub output of the D2v. They should be wired to the speaker output of that channel's amp. The volume of the powered woofers, and the built-in crossover between them and the attached speaker, should be set to match the attached speaker -- NOT any subwoofer in your setup. You are building a combo main speaker which includes that powered woofer, and that's the way you should think of it. So the woofer has to mesh well with the other drivers of that specific speaker, not any other speaker or sub. If the other drivers in the main speaker are low volume then the powered woofer must also be low volume, and its crossover must work with the other drivers in that specific speaker to make for a good, "full range" speaker. The powered woofer is phase matched against the other drivers in that specific speaker as part of its built-in crossover setup.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, any standalone subwoofer(s) you have should be wired to the sub output of the D2v. They should *NOT* be wired to receive signals from any main speaker channel. I.e., there should be no wire between the standalone sub and anything but the D2v's sub output. Subs are separately volume adjusted so that the combo produces 75dB. For example, with 2 subwoofers, you typically set each alone to produce 72dB. Subs are also separately phase matched to the main speakers (usually using the LF speaker as a surrogate for all the mains). Any crossover in the sub should be disabled so that the sub reproduces frequencies as high as possible. Similarly, subsonic filtering should be disabled so the sub can go as low as possible. (Subsonic filters are also described as removing excess low bass when a sub is positioned close to a wall or corner.) This allows ARC to measure what the subs can actually do.
> 
> 
> As for your Center speaker, double check that the bass input binding posts on that speaker are actually wired properly. The connection to them may have come loose. Failing that, if the woofer in Center is powered it may have blown a fuse.
> 
> 
> Movie mixes can't assume the user will have a sub so they have to put substantial bass in the main speakers and that usually gets put in the Center channel. Which is why it is rather common for Center speakers to get blown out.
> 
> --Bob



OK, thanks for that info. At least I know that I was headed in the right direction to start with. I probably need to set the speaker's built in sub at half volume and experiment from there. I will double check my centers' wiring but, I'm dreading that one or both are blown.....they are kind of small for the rest of the system. I'm using them due to space requirements. I assumed two would make up the difference.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> can you swap the fronts to make sure it isn't a speaker issue - i had a hole like this & the internal crossover was bad in 1 front
> 
> (a long shot as both show the dip)



The thing is I had exactly the same issue with my last speakers (M&K S-5000) and the left was showing the same thing when I ran Audyssey Pro. I have had my new speakers (JTR 8HT's) tested by Macca and they were all fine as I thought there may have been an issue with them at first. It has to be the room and it's position unfortunalty. No idea why having it there, is causing such an issue.


I've taken some pics to show the speaker position


----------



## broker156

I just ran ARC 3.0 and graphs are running approx 68. I set level calibration to zero and did LF to 75 as well as sub. Why are my graphs so low? Any other suggestions also greatly appreciated.

Attachment 187641 

Attachment 187642 

Attachment 187643 

 

arc 10-5-10 A.doc 78.5k . file

 

arc 10-5-10 B.doc 84k . file

 

arc 10-5-10 targets.doc 96.5k . file


----------



## davoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19276561
> 
> 
> This problem seems to come and go with no obvious reason.
> 
> 
> One suggested workaround is to make sure the Anthem is powered on BEFORE you launch LVSE. I.e., don't use LVSE to turn on the processor, and don't even turn on the processor yourself after starting LVSE.
> 
> 
> I suggest you reboot the computer, power cycle the Anthem (including use of the back panel power switch) and try again with the Anthem powered up before you launch LVSE.
> 
> --Bob



Piero at Anthem tech support has duplicated the problem and passed it on to engineering for resolution.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoe* /forum/post/19294244
> 
> 
> Piero at Anthem tech support has duplicated the problem and passed it on to engineering for resolution.



I just did an LVSE "Get" this evening without problems -- with the D2v powered on before LVSE was launched. But of course that could easily be coincidence.


The other problem I've seen with LVSE "Get" is that sometimes you don't actually pull all the correct values out of the Anthem.


Typically if you spot such a problem and do another "Get", the values are retrieved correctly the second time around.


For some reason the Gamma Correction settings seems to be particularly subject to problems. So it looks like the serial protocol used by LVSE needs a little more work.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just completed the redo of my ARC setup using "official" ARC V3.0 and "official" firmware V2.10 in the D2v.


My solution level came in about 72dB.


As with the "test" ARC V2.4.13 run, my Measured data looks to me as if it is good up to 15KHz. And so once again I decided to use that as my Max EQ Frequency Target.


I also decided once again to tell ARC to push the correction for my subwoofer up to 120Hz from the 80Hz cutoff it had chosen.


ARC found over 4dB room gain in my room (thus limited to 4dB). I decided this time to lower it a bit further -- which made the sub at 120Hz work better. For Movie I used 3.5dB Room Gain. For Music, as has been my recent practice, I dropped that an additional dB.


The rest was just minor tweaking of ARC's choice of cutoff values for the main speakers to get the cleanest looking curves.


I've just started doing listening tests, and so far so good.


Here are my ARC V3.0 charts:

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Hey Bob. I noticed that in my target window it says 120 (like yours) for the sub but when I upload it to the Anthem in the speaker config it says 95 as being the crossover. Is this correct?


There's one thing I don't like about your graphs.....they look too good


----------



## netroamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19294530
> 
> 
> I just completed the redo of my ARC setup using "official" ARC V3.0 and "official" firmware V2.10 in the D2v.
> 
> 
> My solution level came in about 72dB.
> 
> 
> As with the "test" ARC V2.4.13 run, my Measured data looks to me as if it is good up to 15KHz. And so once again I decided to use that as my Max EQ Frequency Target.
> 
> 
> I also decided once again to tell ARC to push the correction for my subwoofer up to 120Hz from the 80Hz cutoff it had chosen.
> 
> 
> ARC found over 4dB room gain in my room (thus limited to 4dB). I decided this time to lower it a bit further -- which made the sub at 120Hz work better. For Movie I used 3.5dB Room Gain. For Music, as has been my recent practice, I dropped that an additional dB.
> 
> 
> The rest was just minor tweaking of ARC's choice of cutoff values for the main speakers to get the cleanest looking curves.
> 
> 
> I've just started doing listening tests, and so far so good.
> 
> 
> Here are my ARC V3.0 charts:
> 
> --Bob



What was your test level setting. Did you push it beyond a 75db reading from your SPL?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *netroamer* /forum/post/19294699
> 
> 
> What was your test level setting. Did you push it beyond a 75db reading from your SPL?



No I set it to 75dB SPL -- which happens to be a Test Level of 0dB with my speakers in my room. I then set my sub volume to 78dB as I find that seems to work better with the ARC test tones in my room -- fewer retries needed. Since ARC is building 3+ dB of Room Gain into the sub curve anyway, the volume trim it uploads for the sub comes in at 0dB.


I don't know why the solution came in at 72dB rather than 75dB. One theory that's been mentioned is that the new ARC is biasing the level a bit to better accommodate measured dips, but I think that's just a guess at this point.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19294600
> 
> 
> Hey Bob. I noticed that in my target window it says 120 (like yours) for the sub but when I upload it to the Anthem in the speaker config it says 95 as being the crossover. Is this correct?
> 
> 
> There's one thing I don't like about your graphs.....they look too good



That's normal. The sub "cutoff" is like "Max EQ Frequency" for the sub -- i.e., how far up ARC tries to correct for it -- which requires that resources be allocated to that.


The sub "crossover" which gets Uploaded has to do with how the sub participates in bass steering from the Mains. LFE gets handled specially. Since LFE is basically gone by 120Hz, I like to try to push the sub up towards that if I can make it work.


For all the main speakers, the cutoff and crossover ARC uses will be the same. But for the sub, ARC has the extra degree of freedom to set them separately -- which produces better solutions. In my case, the Uploaded sub crossover is 80Hz, which you'll see matches well with the crossover in use for the other speakers. If main speakers are weaker in bass, meaning the sub has to support them higher up, then the sub crossover will be set higher. Basically the crossover is used to match the sub curve to the main speaker curves at and below the crossover frequency, i.e., where steered bass is arriving from the main speaker. This gives a smooth transition as the audio moves from the main to the sub.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

From day one, with all updates (beta and others) 90% of the time when I turn AM/FM there is no sound. If I then switch source, then back to AM/FM all is ok. Any ideas?










Its so common that in my remote (NEVO), i simply added a change input comand to a dead input then back to AM/FM, but honestly for this much money I should not have to do that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *broker156* /forum/post/19294081
> 
> 
> I just ran ARC 3.0 and graphs are running approx 68. I set level calibration to zero and did LF to 75 as well as sub. Why are my graphs so low? Any other suggestions also greatly appreciated.
> 
> Attachment 187641
> 
> Attachment 187642
> 
> Attachment 187643



You mean you adjusted the LF line instead of the Test Level line? If so, then that's likely your problem.


Zero all the lines in Setup > Level Calibration.


Set Manual mode in the first line.


Scroll down one to the Test Level line. A test tone will now be coming from the Left Front speaker. Adjust the Test Level line to yield 75dB SPL at ARC Mic position #1. Leave the LF line at 0dB.


After setting Test Level, scroll down to either sub line and, leaving that line at 0dB, adjust the volume knob in the sub to yield 75dB SPL.


Now go Measure for ARC.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Cool thx for the explanation. So did you check out my room pics showing where the front left main speaker is positioned. Any thoughts or advice on how to improve things?


----------



## tngiloy

Bob,


Could you please post links to articles or posts on how to use the new features in ARC 3.0.

Specifically the 'single speaker sweep' option.

I have some time today, and would like to optimize my subs, but I'm cluless on how to get into the advanced ARC 3.0 features and how to use them once I'm in.

Your assistance is greatly appreciated.


Thanks,

Tom


----------



## broker156

Bob,

I worded my question wrong. I did zero out all levels in Speaker Calibration and did 75db on Noise Level which ended up at -7.5. So my questions stays the same why are my graphs at 68 not 75. Should I run at 80db during noise level to get closer to 75 on my graphs. Also why does my sub graph look so strange. As always thank you for your knowledge.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *broker156* /forum/post/19296752
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I worded my question wrong. I did zero out all levels in Speaker Calibration and did 75db on Noise Level which ended up at -7.5. So my questions stays the same why are my graphs at 68 not 75. Should I run at 80db during noise level to get closer to 75 on my graphs. Also why does my sub graph look so strange. As always thank you for your knowledge.



As for the level, the only thing I can think of is that your SPL meter wasn't giving you correct results. This can happen, for example, if the battery is weak or if you use a range above or below the optimal range for reading 75dB (that's the 70dB range on the Radio Shack digital meter that lots of folks use). Also be sure to point the meter straight up when taking the reading and hold it at arm's length at seated ear height at ARC mic position #1, but not adjacent to a seat back or wall. The meter should be set to "C" weighting and "Slow" response.


I'd suggest just raising Test Level back to 0dB (leave the sub where it is set) and re-Measure for ARC.


As for your sub, if you mean the garbage showing in the red Measured curve at higher frequencies, that's just noise. It's 30dB and more below the solution level. If your solution had been at 75dB the chart would have been scaled so that stuff was off the bottom (not visible).


There's really no big problem in the solution as you have it now. I'd like to see what you get raising Test Level so that the solution comes in back at 75dB, but that's just because it's easier for the mic to hear somewhat louder test tones.


One thing you should check is to make sure you have disabled/bypassed the crossover built into your sub. It looks like it might have an 80Hz crossover engaged.


Your LF/RF speakers are good enough in bass that you could tweak their cutoff further down if you felt like experimenting with that. However I think you should still leave 30Hz and below to the sub so don't lower LF/RF below that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19295676
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Could you please post links to articles or posts on how to use the new features in ARC 3.0.
> 
> Specifically the 'single speaker sweep' option.
> 
> I have some time today, and would like to optimize my subs, but I'm cluless on how to get into the advanced ARC 3.0 features and how to use them once I'm in.
> 
> Your assistance is greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



See the release notes included with ARC V3.0 and also the ARC section of the included manual.


The Quick Measure stuff is in the Tools menu of "Manual" mode in the ARC application. Using it is a snap. It just continuously sends test sweeps to the selected speaker and produces a live chart of the average of the last few sweeps. Expect it to take about 10 sweeps to stabilize at any given mic position. Note that what you'll be seeing is Measured data. There is no ARC correction happening during these test sweep tones.


The only trick to it is to realize that ARC resets portions of the Anthem prior to starting the Quick Measure sweeps just as it does prior to doing a Measurement pass. But it does not restore those afterwards.


So to get things back to "normal" you need to either Upload a set of ARC results (either your prior solution or a new one you create after finishing with Quick Measure) or Reload Saved User or Installer Settings -- presuming you Saved those after your most recent ARC Upload.


The other changes are additional subwoofer adjustment options in the Targets window (again in ARC's Manual mode). There is no documentation on those. Various folks here have played with them. I played with them and ended up going back to the default ARC settings.


Check back around the point where "test" ARC V2.4.12 came out and you'll see the posts from the various folks here playing with these. Try searching on the "flat" subwoofer option as another way to find those posts.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19294760
> 
> 
> From day one, with all updates (beta and others) 90% of the time when I turn AM/FM there is no sound. If I then switch source, then back to AM/FM all is ok. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its so common that in my remote (NEVO), i simply added a change input comand to a dead input then back to AM/FM, but honestly for this much money I should not have to do that.



Give Anthem tech support a call. They may have some info on this. I've not seen that problem discussed here. And there's no settings mistake you could make which would cause this, but still let the audio come back when you switch Sources away and back.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New D2v / AVM 50v "Test"Firmware V2.10b on Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem tech support has this evening placed "test" firmware V2.10b for the D2v and AVM 50v on their password protected download page. Change notes for changes since the current "official" version (V2.10) now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.10b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Further muting fixes, for a certain music server.



I was hoping we might see some progress on the channel level issues MACCA350 was exploring. Perhaps there are undocumented changes.


As always, keep in mind that "test" firmware is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises requiring you to roll back. A release with a single change like this is sometimes put up so that the person reporting the problem can test a proposed fix. Such versions can be more prone to problems for folks with other theater hardware configurations.


------------------------------------


For folks with the older processors, the "test" firmware version remains V1.47f -- so no changes there yet.


Also this afternoon the download folder for the ARC V3.0 stuff on the password protected page was also updated. As best I can tell the only change is an updated manual for the MRX 300, 500, and 700 receivers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've completed the initial listening assessment of my new ARC V3.0 setup (described a few posts further up). It's the bee's knees! A keeper.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19297847
> 
> 
> See the release notes included with ARC V3.0 and also the ARC section of the included manual.
> 
> 
> The Quick Measure stuff is in the Tools menu of "Manual" mode in the ARC application. Using it is a snap. It just continuously sends test sweeps to the selected speaker and produces a live chart of the average of the last few sweeps. Expect it to take about 10 sweeps to stabilize at any given mic position. Note that what you'll be seeing is Measured data. There is no ARC correction happening during these test sweep tones.
> 
> 
> The only trick to it is to realize that ARC resets portions of the Anthem prior to starting the Quick Measure sweeps just as it does prior to doing a Measurement pass. But it does not restore those afterwards.
> 
> 
> So to get things back to "normal" you need to either Upload a set of ARC results (either your prior solution or a new one you create after finishing with Quick Measure) or Reload Saved User or Installer Settings -- presuming you Saved those after your most recent ARC Upload.The other changes are additional subwoofer adjustment options in the Targets window (again in ARC's Manual mode). There is no documentation on those. Various folks here have played with them. I played with them and ended up going back to the default ARC settings.
> 
> 
> Check back around the point where "test" ARC V2.4.12 came out and you'll see the posts from the various folks here playing with these. Try searching on the "flat" subwoofer option as another way to find those posts.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

As always, thanks.

You were right, it was pretty intuitive, after reading the release notes for 3.0 and figuring out where to find the 'quick measure' feature.

The only complaint I have (and its minor) is it would be nice to be able to save the prior 'quick measure' graph to compare to the next one so I could see the changes made were for the better. Just a thought- could I use a screen captue to save the different 'quick measure' readings? Maybe I'll try that next time, but I was pretty happy with the new ARC measurements after tweeking my sub position/settings with the 'quick measure' tool.


It would be nice if Anthem had a pdf file for ARC setup that could be downloaded like the manuals, that could be updated when changes are made with new versions of ARC. That way I wouldn't have to bug you for answers.


Anyway, here are my new graphs.

Please look at them and let me know what you think, if you have the time.

Thanks,

Tom


----------



## broker156

Bob

I did a new measurement & still get about 68 reading. In your last post in telling how to use Radio Shack meter you said 75db is 70 with Radio Shack meter. Does this mean set meter @ 70 & when noise level is at 0 were done. My last reading I set meter @ 70 & when meter said +5 I quit.


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *broker156* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> I did a new measurement & still get about 68 reading. In your last post in telling how to use Radio Shack meter you said 75db is 70 with Radio Shack meter. Does this mean set meter @ 70 & when noise level is at 0 were done. My last reading I set meter @ 70 & when meter said +5 I quit.



Bob was referring to the 70 db range not an inherent error in the RS meter readings.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *broker156* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> I did a new measurement & still get about 68 reading. In your last post in telling how to use Radio Shack meter you said 75db is 70 with Radio Shack meter. Does this mean set meter @ 70 & when noise level is at 0 were done. My last reading I set meter @ 70 & when meter said +5 I quit.



With the Radio Shack digital readout SPL meter, set it to the "70dB" range when trying to measure 75dB. Setting it to the 60 or the 80 range will give a less accurate result.


But in your case I suggest you put down the SPL meter and just raise Test Level from the -7.5dB you have it at now back to 0dB (no change needed in the sub volume knob), and then re-Measure for ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Installed "test" firmware V2.10b. No problems, no surprises.


So far I've not detected any differences.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19299022
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> As always, thanks.
> 
> You were right, it was pretty intuitive, after reading the release notes for 3.0 and figuring out where to find the 'quick measure' feature.
> 
> The only complaint I have (and its minor) is it would be nice to be able to save the prior 'quick measure' graph to compare to the next one so I could see the changes made were for the better. Just a thought- could I use a screen captue to save the different 'quick measure' readings? Maybe I'll try that next time, but I was pretty happy with the new ARC measurements after tweeking my sub position/settings with the 'quick measure' tool.
> 
> 
> It would be nice if Anthem had a pdf file for ARC setup that could be downloaded like the manuals, that could be updated when changes are made with new versions of ARC. That way I wouldn't have to bug you for answers.
> 
> 
> Anyway, here are my new graphs.
> 
> Please look at them and let me know what you think, if you have the time.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



These charts look fine to me.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Done "Commander Bob"!!!










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19297879
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call. They may have some info on this. I've not seen that problem discussed here. And there's no settings mistake you could make which would cause this, but still let the audio come back when you switch Sources away and back.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Warren460

Hi Guru's


When running ARC, where should the microphone be.


In front of the chair at the measuring location?


Behind the chair at the measuring location?


On top of chair at the measuring location?


I would like to download ARC3 and try the new software out. But first, I would like to make sure that I set up the mike correctly.


Warren


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19299365
> 
> 
> With the Radio Shack digital readout SPL meter, set it to the "70dB" range when trying to measure 75dB. Setting it to the 60 or the 80 range will give a less accurate result.
> 
> 
> But in your case I suggest you put down the SPL meter and just raise Test Level from the -7.5dB you have it at now back to 0dB (no change needed in the sub volume knob), and then re-Measure for ARC.
> 
> --Bob



This is the same issue I had reported a while back with beta ARC 3.0. I did all the stuff Bob describes in setting up my D2, and the ARC level came out 65db. I will mention I have main volume set for +10db in settings, I use balanced connects for L, R and C, and the noise level came out +2.5db when the RS meter with fresh battery read +5 on the 70db scale. I don't think I've seen a good explanation of why that's happening yet, unless there is something weird with the D2 settings that's affecting the final result. I may try just increasing the sweep level and not trusting the RS meter, but I can't go +15db for sure!


Any other ideas anyone?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warren460* /forum/post/19299799
> 
> 
> Hi Guru's
> 
> 
> When running ARC, where should the microphone be.
> 
> 
> In front of the chair at the measuring location?
> 
> 
> Behind the chair at the measuring location?
> 
> 
> On top of chair at the measuring location?
> 
> 
> I would like to download ARC3 and try the new software out. But first, I would like to make sure that I set up the mike correctly.
> 
> 
> Warren



Warren,

I couldn't locate the posts where Bob explains the mic positioning, but this is the procedure I use following Bob's advice and the instructions in the Anthem manuals, and a few years worth of experience using ARC.



The mic stand that Anthem provides with ARC makes it difficult to put the mic in an optimal position when doing sweeps, especially if your normal seating position is in a reclinig chair/sofa.

First, at Bob's suggestion, I bought a 'boom' extension for my mic stand. It cost $12 at a local music store (the kind that sells guitars, drums, etc.) and attaches onto the Anthem ARC mic stand. This has allowed me to get much more accurate positioning. The 'boom' is not absolutly required to get good mic positioning, but it sure makes life alot easier. Try it! You'll like it!










With the boom-mic ready,I first put my seats in the reclinig position (the position the seat will be in when in use), then place the mic stand in front or behind of the #1 position. The position of the stand doesn't matter. *The position of the mic does!*
*The #1 position should be centered over the main listening position.*

If there is only one person in the audience, place the mic over that seat. If there are two, put the mic between the two seats. If there are multiple rows of seats in a theater, place the mic in the center of the average audience that you would have in attendace.
*The mic should be at ear level when seated.*
*The mic needs to be pointing straight up towards the ceiling.*
*The mic needs to be at least 1' in front of any surface (chair/wall).*

For the #2 position move the mic 18''- 24''to one side of position #1. For position #3 move the mic 18''- 24'' to the other side of position #1.

For a single rows of seats the mic positions would look something like:


#5----#3----#1----#2----#4



For a theater with multiple rows it would look something like this:


#5----------------#4


-------- #1--------


#3-----------------#2


If you you use a different speaker configuration or a different #1 seating position for movies and music, then you should consider doing separate movie and music ARC readings.


Hope this helps.


Tom


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19301639
> 
> 
> Warren,
> 
> I couldn't locate the posts where Bob explains the mic positioning, but this is the procedure I use following Bob's advice and the instructions in the Anthem manuals, and a few years worth of experience using ARC.
> 
> 
> 
> The mic stand that Anthem provides with ARC makes it difficult to put the mic in an optimal position when doing sweeps, especially if your normal seating position is in a reclinig chair/sofa.
> 
> First, at Bob's suggestion, I bought a 'boom' extension for my mic stand. It cost $12 at a local music store (the kind that sells guitars, drums, etc.) and attaches onto the Anthem ARC mic stand. This has allowed me to get much more accurate positioning. The 'boom' is not absolutly required to get good mic positioning, but it sure makes life alot easier. Try it! You'll like it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the boom-mic ready,I first put my seats in the reclinig position (the position the seat will be in when in use), then place the mic stand in front or behind of the #1 position. The position of the stand doesn't matter. *The position of the mic does!*
> *The #1 position should be centered over the main listening position.*
> 
> If there is only one person in the audience, place the mic over that seat. If there are two, put the mic between the two seats. If there are multiple rows of seats in a theater, place the mic in the center of the average audience that you would have in attendace.
> *The mic should be at ear level when seated.*
> *The mic needs to be pointing straight up towards the ceiling.*
> *The mic needs to be at least 1' in front of any surface (chair/wall).*
> 
> For the #2 position move the mic 18''- 24''to one side of position #1. For position #3 move the mic 18''- 24'' to the other side of position #1.
> 
> For a single rows of seats the mic positions would look something like:
> 
> 
> #5----#3----#1----#2----#4
> 
> 
> 
> For a theater with multiple rows it would look something like this:
> 
> 
> #5----------------#4
> 
> 
> -------- #1--------
> 
> 
> #3-----------------#2
> 
> 
> If you you use a different speaker configuration or a different #1 seating position for movies and music, then you should consider doing separate movie and music ARC readings.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> Tom



Hi,


I have also followed these guidelines when I had a D2 and now that I have a D2v. But now, after a few years, I have these new questions about the procedures.

First a description of my setting:


I have a rectangular room L.8m X W.5m

I have 2 sofas. The closest to the screen, a smaller one (S.1) is at floor level. A larger one (S.2) is right behind the small one on a second level about 30cm higher.

I usually ran ARC twice. Once for Movies using a 7.1 system, and then for Music using on a 2.0 system.

So my measurements looked as follows


Movies

S.2-----------#4--------#5---------#6

S.1---------------#3----#1----#2

Floor


Music

S.2

S.1---------------#3----#1----#2

Floor------------------#4--#5


That way I always got around 3.9 of Gain for Movies and 0.7 for Music.

So I usually raised the Music Gain to 3, overriding ARC.


Now, I noticed lately in an earlier post that I could run ARC once, selecting the Music mode as "Same as Movie", and only after deselect all the unneeded speakers in the Music mode to make it a 2.0 profile.

If I do that, which positioning should I chose?

I suppose, logically, the wider one, the Movie positioning.

But then what about Gain?

What about the focus on the main #1 position?

What do you think?


Thanks


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/19301798
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I have also followed these guidelines when I had a D2 and now that I have a D2v. But now, after a few years, I have these new questions about the procedures.
> 
> First a description of my setting:
> 
> 
> I have a rectangular room L.8m X W.5m
> 
> I have 2 sofas. The closest to the screen, a smaller one (S.1) is at floor level. A larger one (S.2) is right behind the small one on a second level about 30cm higher.
> 
> I usually ran ARC twice. Once for Movies using a 7.1 system, and then for Music using on a 2.0 system.
> 
> So my measurements looked as follows
> 
> 
> Movies
> 
> S.2-----------#4--------#5---------#6
> 
> S.1---------------#3----#1----#2
> 
> Floor
> 
> 
> Music
> 
> S.2
> 
> S.1---------------#3----#1----#2
> 
> Floor------------------#4--#5
> 
> 
> That way I always got around 3.9 of Gain for Movies and 0.7 for Music.
> 
> So I usually raised the Music Gain to 3, overriding ARC.
> 
> 
> Now, I noticed lately in an earlier post that I could run ARC once, selecting the Music mode as "Same as Movie", and only after deselect all the unneeded speakers in the Music mode to make it a 2.0 profile.
> 
> If I do that, which positioning should I chose?
> 
> I suppose, logically, the wider one, the Movie positioning.
> 
> But then what about Gain?
> 
> What about the focus on the main #1 position?
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> 
> Thanks




We'll see what Bob thinks, but since you are running a different speaker configuration I would run separate movie and music runs.

Even though your #1 seat is the same, the others are different, I assume because that is where the movie and music seating is different.

You also say you are running 2.0 for music, which means you are running your fronts at full range. If you are running your movie with a sub in 5.1 or 7.1 (and not running your fronts at full range) Arc will be treating your fronts differently and you will need to make a separate movie/music ARC runs to get an accurate result.

It really takes just a little more time to do a separate music run, especially if you are only doing your fronts.


Tom


----------



## daren_p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/19299860
> 
> 
> This is the same issue I had reported a while back with beta ARC 3.0. I did all the stuff Bob describes in setting up my D2, and the ARC level came out 65db. I will mention I have main volume set for +10db in settings, I use balanced connects for L, R and C, and the noise level came out +2.5db when the RS meter with fresh battery read +5 on the 70db scale. I don't think I've seen a good explanation of why that's happening yet, unless there is something weird with the D2 settings that's affecting the final result. I may try just increasing the sweep level and not trusting the RS meter, but I can't go +15db for sure!
> 
> 
> Any other ideas anyone?



As I posted above, this is also what happened with me, once I ran V3. My level was set with a digital sound meter that should be half descently accurate. My level correction was -2.5db, which I believe is right around where my level was previously set with another digital sound meter & graph results were as expected with previous version of ARC (2.4 I believe). I do know my max level is set at +30db (never changed).


Only thing I noticed was that I had a +5db setting in the "on the fly" sub level for my 6 ch analog & the Sat input. Not sure if this made any difference but I need to re-run ARC after room changes, so I'll be sure all on the fly trims are set at 0 this time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The mic placement rules are simple but important. You need to sample the seating area. That doesn't mean the mic needs to be placed where each person's head will be, but rather that the spacing must span the seating area. If you have a large seating area, add more mic positions.


You need to have distance between the mic placements so that ARC has a better chance to distinguish room response from inherent speaker output.


The mic is omnidirectional so that it can pick up reflected sound as well as direct sound, and so it is calibrated for use pointing straight up.


And you need to place the mic tip at seated ear height. If you recline your seats while viewing, then set them that way and adjust the mic position accordingly.


The #1 position is the one used for setting speaker levels, so it must be at the center of the preferred seating.


Subsequent mic positions must alternate either side of #1. This helps insure adequate mic separation


No two mic positions, whether or not sequential should be closer than 24 inches apart. I like to use 30 inches.


Keep the mic tip away from reflecting/blocking surfaces like seat backs or walls. I like to keep at least 18 inches from a wall when possible, but consider 1 foot a minimum. If your seating is flush to a back wall, it is better to have the mic a little closer to the screen than too close to the wall. For a seat back, it's OK to raise the mic tip a few inches to clear the seat back. If the seat back is tall, move the mic about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from that.


It is a good idea to have some front/back shift as well as left/right. So if you have single row seating, like on a sofa, rather than running a straight line across the sofa back I suggest you swing the outer two positions closer to the screen. For a typical sofa, that will place #1, #2, and #3 along the sofa back (with #1 in the middle), and #4 and #5 just outside the sofa arms and shifted forward about to the front of the sofa cushion.


-------------------------------------------


As important as mic positioning, is to remember to configure your room the way it will be used for critical listening. Doors open/closed. Curtains open/closed. Etc. In my prior viewing room I had a walk in closet and if I left the door to that open all the 50Hz went in there to hide. You don't want to know how long it took me to figure THAT out.


In many cases, problems can be fixed by adjusting speaker positioning and pointing. Speakers generally have worse dispersion of treble in the vertical direction than in the horizontal. So if your speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, consider what you can do to adjust their vertical pointing.


The LF/RF speakers should not be rotated so they are pointing at mic position #1 (called toe-in). A good rule of thumb is to rotate them only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular to the screen towards mic position #1.


Distance between speakers and walls/corners has a big effect on how the speakers couple to the room. In bass frequencies, even inches matter. The new Quick Measure feature in ARC can be useful in experimenting with this. In some rooms dramatic improvement in subwoofer response can be had by a big move -- e.g., from the front wall to a side wall. The bass frequencies produced by the sub are not locatable (the sub works by "pressurizing" the entire listening area so that bass appears to come from everywhere). So you are free to put the sub just about anywhere. However, if you can avoid it, don't put the sub really close to the seating as the "near field" response of the sub will be different for the folks sitting closest to it. I.e., try not to use your subwoofer as an end-table for the sofa. If you move the sub, be sure to recheck its Polarity/Phase match to the main speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daren_p* /forum/post/19303164
> 
> 
> As I posted above, this is also what happened with me, once I ran V3. My level was set with a digital sound meter that should be half descently accurate. My level correction was -2.5db, which I believe is right around where my level was previously set with another digital sound meter & graph results were as expected with previous version of ARC (2.4 I believe). I do know my max level is set at +30db (never changed).
> 
> 
> Only thing I noticed was that I had a +5db setting in the "on the fly" sub level for my 6 ch analog & the Sat input. Not sure if this made any difference but I need to re-run ARC after room changes, so I'll be sure all on the fly trims are set at 0 this time.



Keep in mind that ARC V2.4 still had the 6dB level bug which meant some folks had to lower Test Level an additional 6dB to get proper levels out of ARC. So comparing Test Level in V3.0 to what gave you proper results in V2.4 may be misleading.


Also keep in mind that Test Level and LF volume settings interact. You must have the LF line at 0dB before you set Test Level.


The "temporary" speaker level adjustments should be zeroed out. To be SURE they are all zeroed (for all Sources and all audio types), go into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video continue via the Front Panel display.

3) Reload Saved User Settings.


The "temporary" settings are not saved so this clears all of them.

--Bob


----------



## daren_p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19302053
> 
> 
> We'll see what Bob thinks, but since you are running a different speaker configuration I would run separate movie and music runs.
> 
> Even though your #1 seat is the same, the others are different, I assume because that is where the movie and music seating is different.
> 
> You also say you are running 2.0 for music, which means you are running your fronts at full range. If you are running your movie with a sub in 5.1 or 7.1 (and not running your fronts at full range) Arc will be treating your fronts differently and you will need to make a separate movie/music ARC runs to get an accurate result.
> 
> It really takes just a little more time to do a separate music run, especially if you are only doing your fronts.
> 
> 
> Tom




After reading the last portion above, about doing two seperate measurments if your just listening to 2ch for music, it has me thinking. Does it actually make a difference?


I have just been taking one set of measurments & then selecting that Movie & Music are different, set Music to fronts only, full range & then allow ARC to calculate the corrected curves. Would taking a second set of measurments (would do in the same position as Movie measurments) make any difference? I didn't think this was needed as after you modify the targets, ARC re-draws new "calculated" curves for both setups & trys to adjust to the calculated. So I'm wondering how (or if) just measuring the 2 ch would make any difference? (when using the same measuring positions)


----------



## daren_p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19303203
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that ARC V2.4 still had the 6dB level bug which meant some folks had to lower Test Level an additional 6dB to get proper levels out of ARC. So comparing Test Level in V3.0 to what gave you proper results in V2.4 may be misleading.
> 
> 
> Also keep in mind that Test Level and LF volume settings interact. You must have the LF line at 0dB before you set Test Level.




Thanks Bob, actually I wasn't 100% correct with what I said, now that I think about it. When I initially ran ARC 2.4, I didn't know you had to adjust levels, so I just ran it with the settings I had in there. When I ran V3, as far as I know, I did things properly, all levels zereo'd out, then set the test level & finally adjust sub gain (on the sub) to get 75db (but I did forget to zero the on the fly settings, maybe this is part of the problem?). Next time I run ARC, I will be sure all on the fly settings are zero'd out.


Before running ARC my setting to get the test level around 75db was around the same -2.5 I used before I ran V3 (so I would think this helps to rule out a sound meter error). Measurements done with two different digital db meters that should be half descent. We sell sound meters at work so I just bring different new ones home, when needed. I try to not bring home the real cheepie meters, so their usually the $200-300 ones.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't really know where the root error is here, or even if there is some "good reason" why ARC had to use a lower level in the solution.


One thing that might help while trying to figure this out is that I believe you can use the Quick Measure feature to see how the ARC mic is hearing the output of one of your speakers (e.g., Left Front) faster than doing a complete ARC setup.


So you can experiment with things like different Test Level settings, or whether the "temporary" level adjustments are the culprit, quite a bit faster.


Just remember you need to restore your setup after using Quick Measure. Either do a new ARC setup, or re-Upload your most recent ARC results, or Reload Saved User Settings if you remembered to save those after your prior ARC Upload.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daren_p* /forum/post/19303251
> 
> 
> After reading the last portion above, about doing two seperate measurments if your just listening to 2ch for music, it has me thinking. Does it actually make a difference?
> 
> 
> I have just been taking one set of measurments & then selecting that Movie & Music are different, set Music to fronts only, full range & then allow ARC to calculate the corrected curves. Would taking a second set of measurments (would do in the same position as Movie measurments) make any difference? I didn't think this was needed as after you modify the targets, ARC re-draws new "calculated" curves for both setups & trys to adjust to the calculated. So I'm wondering how (or if) just measuring the 2 ch would make any difference? (when using the same measuring positions)



You are probably OK doing it that way. I know with ARC 3.0 after running a 'same as' set of sweeps you can type an 'n' by the speakers you want to eliminate, and do a new calculation. I wasn't aware you could do that with the prior ARC versions.


With me , its so easy to run a second set for a 2.1 music set-up that I have always done it. I may be doing more work than I need to , but its so quick and easy that I just do it.


Bob,

am I wasting time?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You are probably OK doing it that way. I know with ARC 3.0 after running a 'same as' set of sweeps you can type an 'n' by the speakers you want to eliminate, and do a new calculation. I wasn't aware you could do that with the prior ARC versions.
> 
> 
> With me , its so easy to run a second set for a 2.1 music set-up that I have always done it. I may be doing more work than I need to , but its so quick and easy that I just do it.
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> am I wasting time?



Assuming the only thing that's changing is the included speakers, then the only downside to reusing the Movie data and eliminating speakers afterwards is that ARC might have a different idea on how to set the cutoffs if you had taken a separate Measurement pass for Music.


Consider dropping the sub for example. ARC will use the LF/RF pair "full range" of course, but their low end cutoff will still be in effect unless you change that yourself.


Similarly, dropping Surrounds won't automatically change ARC's choice of how high up it needs to correct the sub.

--Bob


----------



## broker156

Bob,

I gave up with Radio Shack meter & used Quick Measure. I first went to speaker calibration & changed number in noise level to a number that showed in quick measure with a reading above 70 db. Of couse I zeroed out rest of speaker calibration each time. This ended up with noise level -2.0 [LF +0.0 FL -0.5 center -0.5 sur R -0.5 sur L =3.5 sub -3.5.

Here are my graphs. Any suggestions?


----------



## broker156

Bob,

I'm the one that could not get the Radio Shack meter to give a reading above 68db. I used Quick measure and in Speaker Calibration I put numbers in until it showed a line above 70db in LF speaker. Of couse I zeroed out each line on each try. I ended up with noise level -2.0 LF +0.0 RF -0.5 center -0.5 sur R -0.5 surr L +0.5 sub -3.5. Here are my graphs. Any suggestions?
Attachment 187823 

Attachment 187824 

Attachment 187825 

 

arc 10-8-10 A.doc 149k . file

 

arc 10-8-10 B.doc 85.5k . file

 

arc 10-8-10 targets.doc 100.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *broker156* /forum/post/19305066
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I'm the one that could not get the Radio Shack meter to give a reading above 68db. I used Quick measure and in Speaker Calibration I put numbers in until it showed a line above 70db in LF speaker. Of couse I zeroed out each line on each try. I ended up with noise level -2.0 LF +0.0 RF -0.5 center -0.5 sur R -0.5 surr L +0.5 sub -3.5. Here are my graphs. Any suggestions?
> Attachment 187823
> 
> Attachment 187824
> 
> Attachment 187825



These look fine. That little residual wobble in the sub would likely respond well to some repositioning, but ARC has corrected enough of it, that I wouldn't bother. Enjoy!

--Bob


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19298866
> 
> 
> I've completed the initial listening assessment of my new ARC V3.0 setup (described a few posts further up). It's the bee's knees! A keeper.
> 
> --Bob



+1!! All I can say is OMG! My system has never sounded better..after I finally got everything figured out. Thanks Bob! My family has developed a tradition that October is Scary Movie Month. It's been pretty fun because we watch movies that we would never consider otherwise. Anyway, we watched Drag Me to Hell on Blu-Ray the other night and the sound blew everyone away! It was incredible. It sounded so good that my sixteen year old wanted to hear Mass Effect II (I think) on his Xbox and now I can't get him back in his room.....


----------



## runnerlk

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
Post the charts. You can select the Music charts in the View menu of the ARC application.


But keep in mind that with no subwoofer to support the low end of each speaker it is normal for ARC to try to use the speakers further down -- thus a lower cutoff for them.


----------------------------


Check that you have Room EQ turned ON for each Source using the Music configuration. And if the audio input is Analog, remember that you must use ANALOG-DSP for the Source so that the audio can be digitized and processed via ARC.

--Bob
I have attached my results. Comments welcomed.


Lou

 

ARC2.4Results.pdf 234.1474609375k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks who have "combo" speakers with powered woofers or attached satellite subs, keep in mind that you can also use the new Quick Measure feature of ARC to get a live view of what's happening to a given speaker's output as you make adjustments in the volume control for that powered woofer, and even the internal phase and crossover adjustments between the powered woofer and the rest of the drivers in that speaker if it offers such adjustments.


This will let you optimize the "uncorrected" output of each combo speaker in turn. Then do an ARC Measurement of your new, improved, set of speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/19308050
> 
> 
> I have attached my results. Comments welcomed.
> 
> 
> Lou



Please remember to include the Targets window when you post charts.


There are lots of problems in these charts, but nothing that should produce your original report of Music without the subwoofer being "muffled, quiet, lacked detail."


Did you check the other things I suggested? E.g., make sure Room EQ is ON for your Music Sources, and that analog audio Music Sources are set to ANALOG-DSP?


How did you disable the sub for ARC? Did you do a separate pass of Music Measurement with the subwoofer out of the configuration or did you disable the sub in ARC after taking only Movie Measurements. And if the latter, how did you do that?


Please look at your Music configuration in Setup and post the settings that ARC put in there when you did this Upload.


------------------------------------


As to the problems in the charts, your LF/RF both have a pretty big hole in their response between 50 and 300Hz. ARC is correcting that, but the fact that they Measure this way suggests a problem in the speakers or their setup.


If LF/RF have blown or disconnected woofers, they may Measure as still having some bass due to the low frequency response of their midrange drivers, but still not be able to produce bass at volume. Thus you could get red Measured curves like this but still not have good bass due to the inability of the speakers to produce bass at volume. With the subwoofer still in the mix the sub is handling those frequencies.


If LF/RF are "combo" speakers (with powered woofers or attached satellite subs) then their powered woofers are likely not set up correctly.


Your Center speaker also Measures oddly in bass. That may be an installation issue.


Your Rear surrounds have no bass at all.


In the V2.4 charts, your sub's Measured curve looks like it still has its internal crossover enabled (at around 80Hz).

--Bob


----------



## Ron Alcasid

Looking at everyones uncorrected ARC measurements. It is coincidence that nearly everyone has huge dips in the 50 - 500 Hz range?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/19308657
> 
> 
> Looking at everyones uncorrected ARC measurements. It is coincidence that nearly everyone has huge dips in the 50 - 500 Hz range?



Absolutely not. Look at my charts for example. These dips indicate problems -- often room problems (reflection cancellation nulls), but sometimes physical speaker problems.

--Bob


----------



## Ron Alcasid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19308807
> 
> 
> Absolutely not. Look at my charts for example. These dips indicate problems -- often room problems (reflection cancellation nulls), but sometimes physical speaker problems.
> 
> --Bob



I just find it uncanny that nearly everyone have similar issue in that frequency range. It would indicate there is some common acoustic trait shared by our rooms or everyone is making the same placement mistakes.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've just uploaded my ARC V3.0 setup's "default" 5KHz solution for comparison. This is the result as chosen by ARC, with no changes whatsoever. The charts are below. For comparison, my "tweaked" result charts can be found in this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19294530 


Comparing the two sets of charts, you'll see that my speakers don't Measure as needing a lot of correction between 5KHz and 15KHz, so I wouldn't expect to hear much change up there, but we'll see. Again, part of the problem is figuring out whether the Measured results up that high are "real" in the first place.


Meanwhile the default solution reduces sub output above 80Hz compared to the tweaked solution. This won't alter steered bass since the crossovers from the main speakers are all below that, but it should reduce the upper end of LFE (which can go up to 120Hz). Now there's not much important LFE content up there -- not nearly so critical as what happens BELOW 80Hz -- but we'll see what it sounds like.


Partially countering that is that the default's choice for Room Gain is higher than what I used in my tweaked solution. This is only a 1/2 dB increase for Movie, but 1 1/2 dB for Music. It may be hard to separate these two changes in listening tests.


In addition, the default solution leaves a residual wobble in Center in the range 150-300Hz. It's not huge, but it's more than I would normally leave when manually tweaking things. It may effect male dialog clarity. We'll see. Since I exclude the Center from my Music configuration (used exclusively for stereo music content), the difference here won't alter Music.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/19308050
> 
> 
> I have attached my results. Comments welcomed.
> 
> 
> Lou



I have never seen ARC correct such a huge dip as this. This is nearly a 10 dB fix. Does this seem odd to you Bob?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ron Alcasid* /forum/post/19308880
> 
> 
> I just find it uncanny that nearly everyone have similar issue in that frequency range. It would indicate there is some common acoustic trait shared by our rooms or everyone is making the same placement mistakes.



Well one fairly common mistake that can do this is having LF/RF too close to the wall/corner behind them. The specific room geometry and design of the speakers will determine whether this produces cancellation. But often moving the speakers further out is a good start in tackling this.


In addition, some folks also have room treatments that may be overdone. Absorbing too much in that frequency range.


And some folks have "combo" speakers where the transition between the powered woofers and the rest of the drivers in the speaker is not set up correctly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19308909
> 
> 
> I have never seen ARC correct such a huge dip as this. This is nearly a 10 dB fix. Does this seem odd to you Bob?
> 
> John



Yes. But keep in mind that he's eliminated the sub, so ARC has to do something. I suspect ARC has actually boosted the volume trim for LF/RF and used cuts to bring the rest of it back down.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19308949
> 
> 
> Yes. But keep in mind that he's eliminated the sub, so ARC has to do something. I suspect ARC has actually boosted the volume trim for LF/RF and used cuts to bring the rest of it back down.
> 
> --Bob



Interesting.

John


----------



## runnerlk

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
Please remember to include the Targets window when you post charts.


There are lots of problems in these charts, but nothing that should produce your original report of Music without the subwoofer being "muffled, quiet, lacked detail."


Did you check the other things I suggested? E.g., make sure Room EQ is ON for your Music Sources, and that analog audio Music Sources are set to ANALOG-DSP?


How did you disable the sub for ARC? Did you do a separate pass of Music Measurement with the subwoofer out of the configuration or did you disable the sub in ARC after taking only Movie Measurements. And if the latter, how did you do that?


Please look at your Music configuration in Setup and post the settings that ARC put in there when you did this Upload.


------------------------------------


As to the problems in the charts, your LF/RF both have a pretty big hole in their response between 50 and 300Hz. ARC is correcting that, but the fact that they Measure this way suggests a problem in the speakers or their setup.


If LF/RF have blown or disconnected woofers, they may Measure as still having some bass due to the low frequency response of their midrange drivers, but still not be able to produce bass at volume. Thus you could get red Measured curves like this but still not have good bass due to the inability of the speakers to produce bass at volume. With the subwoofer still in the mix the sub is handling those frequencies.


If LF/RF are "combo" speakers (with powered woofers or attached satellite subs) then their powered woofers are likely not set up correctly.


Your Center speaker also Measures oddly in bass. That may be an installation issue.


Your Rear surrounds have no bass at all.


In the V2.4 charts, your sub's Measured curve looks like it still has its internal crossover enabled (at around 80Hz).

--Bob
When I ran ARC I ran it for Movie, then i unchecked the sub and ran the music setup. I have attached my targets. I can say with much certainty that there is nothing wrong with my speakers. A little more about my setup. I have a Conrad Johnson CT-6 and have the D2v stereo channels sent to the CJ in a theater loop. My speakers are Von Schweikert VR4-SR and they are b-amped with a tube amp feeding the M/T and a B&K 200.7 feeding the bass module. When I listen to music from my Rega TT or from the Oppo BD83SE via analog to the CJ and take the D2 out of the picture, music is fine, better than fine it sounds great. When I listen with the D2v and select 2 channel that's where the issue is. Room EQ is enabled, but Audio in was set to Dig HDMI. Are you saying that eventhough the source is HDMI1 I still should set Audio in to AnalogDSP? i will admit that my center which is a VS Visiun and very capable, it does sound muddy. How do I disable the crossover on my sub? It is a JL Audio Fathom 113?


Thanks,


Lou

 

Targets.pdf 92.2119140625k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/19309144
> 
> 
> When I ran ARC I ran it for Movie, then i unchecked the sub and ran the music setup. I have attached my targets. I can say with much certainty that there is nothing wrong with my speakers. A little more about my setup. I have a Conrad Johnson CT-6 and have the D2v stereo channels sent to the CJ in a theater loop. My speakers are Von Schweikert VR4-SR and they are b-amped with a tube amp feeding the M/T and a B&K 200.7 feeding the bass module. When I listen to music from my Rega TT or from the Oppo BD83SE via analog to the CJ and take the D2 out of the picture, music is fine, better than fine it sounds great. When I listen with the D2v and select 2 channel that's where the issue is. Room EQ is enabled, but Audio in was set to Dig HDMI. Are you saying that eventhough the source is HDMI1 I still should set Audio in to AnalogDSP? i will admit that my center which is a VS Visiun and very capable, it does sound muddy. How do I disable the crossover on my sub? It is a JL Audio Fathom 113?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Lou



Well I must admit you've got me confused as to how you have this setup hooked up.


If I understand you correctly, you are using the 2-Channel Source definition, but you've set it to get its audio input from the HDMI 1 jack (in which case, yes you do need HDMI 1 instead of AnlgDSP).


Now which stereo outputs are you using from the D2v when you do this? Are you using the normal LF/RF jacks in the main multi-channel outputs? Or are you using one of the stereo jack pairs such as VCR or Zone 2?


We may have revisit some basics here about how you've got the D2v wired into your setup. You do see the problems ARC has found in the red Measured curves, right? Something is screwing up the high bass and low mid-range of LF/RF, killing all bass in the Rears, and causing significant wobbles in the bass output of Center.

--Bob


----------



## runnerlk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19309230
> 
> 
> Well I must admit you've got me confused as to how you have this setup hooked up.
> 
> 
> If I understand you correctly, you are using the 2-Channel Source definition, but you've set it to get its audio input from the HDMI 1 jack (in which case, yes you do need HDMI 1 instead of AnlgDSP).
> 
> 
> Now which stereo outputs are you using from the D2v when you do this? Are you using the normal LF/RF jacks in the main multi-channel outputs? Or are you using one of the stereo jack pairs such as VCR or Zone 2?
> 
> 
> We may have revisit some basics here about how you've got the D2v wired into your setup. You do see the problems ARC has found in the red Measured curves, right? Something is screwing up the high bass and low mid-range of LF/RF, killing all bass in the Rears, and causing significant wobbles in the bass output of Center.
> 
> --Bob



bob,


My only connections from any of my sources to the D2 are HDMI no analog at all. What I am trying to acheive, is when I listen to music with the Oppo through the D2 i generally want stereo, very rarely will i want to listen to multi channel music. Just not my cup of tea. That is why I removed the subwoofer from my music config. As to what is going on with my CC and surrounds I don't have a clue. My cc is on a custom stand below my Stewart screen, properly positioned. My surrounds which are Mirage, are all mounted on the walls in the vendors suggested placement.


Now when I used the movie config for music and turned off the sub then music sounded OK.


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok decided to start fresh and follow the instructions to the letter by setting all speaker trims to "0" and measuring to 75db using my analog SPL Meter. I did a 6 position using a new microphone stand with boom arm and here are the results. Also I moved the 3 front speakers out a little by approx 1 foot and this time left the bi-fold doors open as I watch most of my movies with them open not closed. The line level value after calibrating to 75db was -4.5.


What do you think guys?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19308943
> 
> 
> Well one fairly common mistake that can do this is having LF/RF too close to the wall/corner behind them. The specific room geometry and design of the speakers will determine whether this produces cancellation. But often moving the speakers further out is a good start in tackling this.
> 
> 
> In addition, some folks also have room treatments that may be overdone. Absorbing too much in that frequency range.
> 
> 
> And some folks have "combo" speakers where the transition between the powered woofers and the rest of the drivers in the speaker is not set up correctly.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I'm curious....how far should your LF/RF speakers (or satellites on stands in my case) be from the back wall and away from the sidewalls? Currently my satellites are 21 inches from the front wall and 26 inches from the side walls.


----------



## SimonNo10

I did some testing tonight and tried some music and watched scenes of Ironman 2 and one thing that doesn't seem balanced is the sub. It just sounds louder than the rest of the system like it's running hot. I calibrated it to read 75db on the SPL then ran ARC and it set the level trim to -1.5. I believe setting the sub channel in the Oppo to +5 is causing this when using the analogs. I know Macca said that the sub channel when using the analogs was lower and you need to compensate that by setting it to +5 but to my ears it's just too loud and not balanced with the rest of the speakers.


Maybe my Oppo isn't suffering from this problem and by setting the sub level in the Oppo to +5 it's running the sub to hot. I saw the amber light flash more than once on the Submersive which indicates it's coming close to over doing it and I don't want to damage it. The listening volume was -10 on the Anthem and the line level is set to -4.5 to achieve the 75db before running ARC using my SPL Meter (Analog) with a fresh battery and the proper settings as well C Weight Slow Response.


----------



## runnerlk

OK, now I'm confused. According to the manual, level calibration is not necessary if using ARC? Says "SPL meter with C-weighting is recommended if not using ARC". Should I set all back to 0 and re-run ARC?


Also, Advanced Settings-Bypass LFE Crossover, do I need this if I am running ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/19311256
> 
> 
> OK, now I'm confused. According to the manual, level calibration is not necessary if using ARC? Says "SPL meter with C-weighting is recommended if not using ARC". Should I set all back to 0 and re-run ARC?
> 
> 
> Also, Advanced Settings-Bypass LFE Crossover, do I need this if I am running ARC?



Setting values in Setup > Level Calibration is not necessary when using ARC because ARC will Upload its own values into there.


Nevertheless, setting Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level properly and then making a preliminary adjustment in your sub's own volume knob will let ARC give you a better result under a broader range of room/speaker configurations.


-------------------------


LFE Bypass is one of the set of older EQ adjustments that are disabled/ignored when using ARC. As long as you use each Source with Room EQ = ON it doesn't matter what you set for LFE Bypass, either during ARC Measurement or during normal listening. ARC's own approach to handling LFE takes care of this in a more sophisticated manner. (There is a mistake in the Manual that suggests LFE Bypass is in effect when using ARC.)


Similarly, Room Resonance Filter, Center EQ, THX Ultra 2 Sub, and Sub Boundary Gain Compensation are also disabled/ignored when using ARC.


This is one of the things that makes it hard to A/B ARC by simply turning Room EQ OFF for a Source. As soon as you turn it OFF, all those older EQ settings jump back into effect, however you might have left them set.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19311141
> 
> 
> I did some testing tonight and tried some music and watched scenes of Ironman 2 and one thing that doesn't seem balanced is the sub. It just sounds louder than the rest of the system like it's running hot. I calibrated it to read 75db on the SPL then ran ARC and it set the level trim to -1.5. I believe setting the sub channel in the Oppo to +5 is causing this when using the analogs. I know Macca said that the sub channel when using the analogs was lower and you need to compensate that by setting it to +5 but to my ears it's just too loud and not balanced with the rest of the speakers.
> 
> 
> Maybe my Oppo isn't suffering from this problem and by setting the sub level in the Oppo to +5 it's running the sub to hot. I saw the amber light flash more than once on the Submersive which indicates it's coming close to over doing it and I don't want to damage it. The listening volume was -10 on the Anthem and the line level is set to -4.5 to achieve the 75db before running ARC using my SPL Meter (Analog) with a fresh battery and the proper settings as well C Weight Slow Response.



Check your settings in the Oppo. All speakers in the Oppo should be set to "Large" whether or not the actual speaker is full range, at the same distance (any distance will do so long as they are all the same), and with 0dB volume trim except for the sub which should be at +5dB volume trim.


Meanwhile in the Anthem, check Setup > Source Setup for the Source you are using for that analog audio input and make sure that Room EQ = ON is set, Dolby Volume = OFF is set, and ANLG-DSP is set for the audio input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19310571
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I'm curious....how far should your LF/RF speakers (or satellites on stands in my case) be from the back wall and away from the sidewalls? Currently my satellites are 21 inches from the front wall and 26 inches from the side walls.



There's no set value as it depends on the room geometry and the particular speakers, but as a rule of thumb I like to use 3 feet to the wall behind and at least 18 inches to the wall to the side. Keep in mind that speakers couple to the room in the vertical dimension as well, which means that you'll get a different result if they are on feet risers or on a stand.


Speakers that are set in a nook or inset in a wall or ceiling have their own peculiar problems. Center speaker are also different as it is generally assumed they will be mounted close to a flat surface behind them. But often, Center speakers need a significant amount of air space underneath them to work properly.


The best starting point is to look at the manufacturer's recommendations for your speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19310162
> 
> 
> Ok decided to start fresh and follow the instructions to the letter by setting all speaker trims to "0" and measuring to 75db using my analog SPL Meter. I did a 6 position using a new microphone stand with boom arm and here are the results. Also I moved the 3 front speakers out a little by approx 1 foot and this time left the bi-fold doors open as I watch most of my movies with them open not closed. The line level value after calibrating to 75db was -4.5.
> 
> 
> What do you think guys?



These results look OK. As before, your room has very little inherent Room Gain, and since you've still got that dip in the fronts you have to be careful if you add any more Room Gain. If you experiment with adding Room Gain, look at the Calculated curves for LF/RF in the vicinity of that dip and make sure ARC is still coming close to full correction in that region.


Your sub is a little hot at 20Hz and ARC has left some residual wobble in its correction there. This is probably Boundary Gain -- the increase that naturally occurs when a sub is placed close to a wall/corner. By pulling the sub out a bit you'll likely reduce that and ARC may be able to produce a clean correction down there.


Even though you are not asking ARC to correct at the highest frequencies, you should take a look at whether some speaker pointing adjustments (particularly vertical pointing) will improve their Measured curves up there. Speakers are much more directional at high frequencies. You might start by seeing if pointing adjustment in LF reduces its Measured dip near 3KHz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/19309311
> 
> 
> bob,
> 
> 
> My only connections from any of my sources to the D2 are HDMI no analog at all. What I am trying to acheive, is when I listen to music with the Oppo through the D2 i generally want stereo, very rarely will i want to listen to multi channel music. Just not my cup of tea. That is why I removed the subwoofer from my music config. As to what is going on with my CC and surrounds I don't have a clue. My cc is on a custom stand below my Stewart screen, properly positioned. My surrounds which are Mirage, are all mounted on the walls in the vendors suggested placement.
> 
> 
> Now when I used the movie config for music and turned off the sub then music sounded OK.



Have you tried redoing the ARC setup from scratch? That would eliminate the possibility that your Music configuration got screwed up.


We have lots of people posting here who use Music configuration with the sub excluded, so I don't think there's a bug in ARC V3.0 for this or we would have heard more complaints by now. I still think the most likely thing is that there is a simple settings error -- some difference between your settings when using Movie vs. when using Music.

--Bob


----------



## gtx01

Hi,

I'm new to this forum but have used it in the extensively in the past to help me set-up my AVM 50v so many thanks to all the contributors, especially Bob.


Since I upgraded the AVM 50v firmware to v2.10 I've been having a couple of strange problems and I wondered if anyone else has had anything similar. The upgrade itself all went OK and, in general, I'm very, very, happy with the sound.


The first problem is that with certain tracks the sound just stops, always exactly at the same point, on the same tracks. I've determined the problem is with the AVM 50V because using my Sonos system (FLAC files) the sound stops using the digital connection (both coax and optical) but plays fine using the analogue connection. If I play the same track using the original CD via my Arcam DV88 the sound again stops at exactly the same point.


I've checked the AVM config and AUTO DIG is set to 'NO'. I've also found that changing the AUDIO IN from COAX to OPTICAL whilst playing the music restores the sound, as does just pressing pause/play on the Sonos.


The second problem is that I'm getting a 'popping' from the front left speaker, again only on certain tracks and always at the same point in the track. I've swapped the left/right input to my power amp and the 'popping' moved to the right speaker. This seemed to eliminate an issue with either the power amp or the speaker. Again, the same problem occurs if I play the track via CD or Sonos.


I should add that all of the tracks I'm having issues with used to play fine in the past. Also, I recently upgraded to ARC 3.0 and the problems were the same before and after, and I'm not having any issues with DVD, Blu-Ray or satellite sound, just music.


I've raised both problems with Anthem Tech Support but not had any solutions yet. My real query is if anyone else is having similar problems or has any ideas what the problem may be?


Just to add one last comment - I think the Anthem AVM 50v is a great bit of kit and overall I'm incredibly happy with it. I'd just like to resolve these two issues to have it absolutely perfect.


Thanks


GT


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19311141
> 
> 
> I did some testing tonight and tried some music and watched scenes of Ironman 2 and one thing that doesn't seem balanced is the sub. It just sounds louder than the rest of the system like it's running hot. I calibrated it to read 75db on the SPL then ran ARC and it set the level trim to -1.5. I believe setting the sub channel in the Oppo to +5 is causing this when using the analogs. I know Macca said that the sub channel when using the analogs was lower and you need to compensate that by setting it to +5 but to my ears it's just too loud and not balanced with the rest of the speakers.
> 
> 
> Maybe my Oppo isn't suffering from this problem and by setting the sub level in the Oppo to +5 it's running the sub to hot. I saw the amber light flash more than once on the Submersive which indicates it's coming close to over doing it and I don't want to damage it. The listening volume was -10 on the Anthem and the line level is set to -4.5 to achieve the 75db before running ARC using my SPL Meter (Analog) with a fresh battery and the proper settings as well C Weight Slow Response.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19311991
> 
> 
> Check your settings in the Oppo. All speakers in the Oppo should be set to "Large" whether or not the actual speaker is full range, at the same distance (any distance will do so long as they are all the same), and with 0dB volume trim except for the sub which should be at +5dB volume trim.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile in the Anthem, check Setup > Source Setup for the Source you are using for that analog audio input and make sure that Room EQ = ON is set, Dolby Volume = OFF is set, and ANLG-DSP is set for the audio input.
> 
> --Bob



SimonNo10:


You need to also reduce the analog input level settings in the D2v/50v to -1.5dB for all analog input channels you use, in addition to the advice Bob gave you earlier. This would include the 6-CH and 2-Ch analog inputs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19312185
> 
> 
> SimonNo10:
> 
> 
> You need to also reduce the analog input level settings in the D2v/50v to -1.5dB for all analog input channels you use, in addition to the advice Bob gave you earlier. This would include the 6-CH and 2-Ch analog inputs.



Not really. The only reason to do this in the Anthem for the Oppo analog Source would be if you think it important to match the analog input levels with HDMI input levels -- as opposed to just turning the volume knob for example. It would not explain his concern that his sub output is too hot for example.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/19312117
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm new to this forum but have used it in the extensively in the past to help me set-up my AVM 50v so many thanks to all the contributors, especially Bob.
> 
> 
> Since I upgraded the AVM 50v firmware to v2.10 I've been having a couple of strange problems and I wondered if anyone else has had anything similar. The upgrade itself all went OK and, in general, I'm very, very, happy with the sound.
> 
> 
> The first problem is that with certain tracks the sound just stops, always exactly at the same point, on the same tracks. I've determined the problem is with the AVM 50V because using my Sonos system (FLAC files) the sound stops using the digital connection (both coax and optical) but plays fine using the analogue connection. If I play the same track using the original CD via my Arcam DV88 the sound again stops at exactly the same point.
> 
> 
> I've checked the AVM config and AUTO DIG is set to 'NO'. I've also found that changing the AUDIO IN from COAX to OPTICAL whilst playing the music restores the sound, as does just pressing pause/play on the Sonos.
> 
> 
> The second problem is that I'm getting a 'popping' from the front left speaker, again only on certain tracks and always at the same point in the track. I've swapped the left/right input to my power amp and the 'popping' moved to the right speaker. This seemed to eliminate an issue with either the power amp or the speaker. Again, the same problem occurs if I play the track via CD or Sonos.
> 
> 
> I should add that all of the tracks I'm having issues with used to play fine in the past. Also, I recently upgraded to ARC 3.0 and the problems were the same before and after, and I'm not having any issues with DVD, Blu-Ray or satellite sound, just music.
> 
> 
> I've raised both problems with Anthem Tech Support but not had any solutions yet. My real query is if anyone else is having similar problems or has any ideas what the problem may be?
> 
> 
> Just to add one last comment - I think the Anthem AVM 50v is a great bit of kit and overall I'm incredibly happy with it. I'd just like to resolve these two issues to have it absolutely perfect.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> GT



You'll likely need to get the particular music files causing the problem to Anthem tech support to see if they can sort out what's going on. On the loss of audio, the likely reason is that the Anthem decided the input stream had turned into noise and so it muted the audio to protect the speakers.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

The last few times I've run ARC, on certain speaker sweeps the connection between the mic and computer seems to fail. Instead of doing the usual 9-10 sweeps, then moving to the next speaker, it will continue to sweep on one speaker for about 50 times until it will finally show an error window telling me to check the cable connection.

Since i've not seen any other posts about this problem I'm assuming its not a software problem with ARC. Its happened to me with ARC 2.0- 3.0 on 2 different laptops, so I'm pretty sure its in the usb cable or the mic.

Monoprice has 2 different cables that look like they could be the right replacement.

One is a usb 2.0 male to *mini-B* 5pin male.

The other is a usb 2.0 male to *micro* 5pin male.

Does anyone know which one would be the correct replacement?


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The last few times I've run ARC, on certain speaker sweeps the connection between the mic and computer seems to fail. Instead of doing the usual 9-10 sweeps, then moving to the next speaker, it will continue to sweep on one speaker for about 50 times until it will finally show an error window telling me to check the cable connection.
> 
> Since i've not seen any other posts about this problem I'm assuming its not a software problem with ARC. Its happened to me with ARC 2.0- 3.0 on 2 different laptops, so I'm pretty sure its in the usb cable or the mic.
> 
> Monoprice has 2 different cables that look like they could be the right replacement.
> 
> One is a usb 2.0 male to mini-B 5pin male.
> 
> The other is a usb 2.0 male to micro 5pin male.
> 
> Does anyone know which one would be the correct replacement?
> 
> 
> Tom



This has happened to me on several occasions with various versions of ARC. I wasn't as patient as you so I aborted and would run it again. Hasn't happened for a while but not annoying enough to change the cable.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just spent the last hour trying to track down what I thought was a case of audio corruption on an opera Blu-Ray (HDMI LPCM input). The symptom was rapid pops repeatable at a given time code.


Turns out it was just the baritone, who's a big lad, stepping on a squeaky floor piece on the stage. How do I know? It also lets out a pop when he lifts his foot.


The problem with a good audio setup sometimes, is you hear things you aren't really supposed to hear.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19312733
> 
> 
> I just spent the last hour trying to track down what I thought was a case of audio corruption on an opera Blu-Ray (HDMI LPCM input). The symptom was rapid pops repeatable at a given time code.
> 
> 
> Turns out it was just the baritone, who's a big lad, stepping on a squeaky floor piece on the stage. How do I know? It also lets out a pop when he lifts his foot.
> 
> 
> The problem with a good audio setup sometimes, is you hear things you aren't really supposed to hear.
> 
> --Bob



Funny, I have noticed things like that before myself. Playing back audio in a way that you hear what is recorded is something most take for granted they are getting and are not.


----------



## runnerlk

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
Have you tried redoing the ARC setup from scratch? That would eliminate the possibility that your Music configuration got screwed up.


We have lots of people posting here who use Music configuration with the sub excluded, so I don't think there's a bug in ARC V3.0 for this or we would have heard more complaints by now. I still think the most likely thing is that there is a simple settings error -- some difference between your settings when using Movie vs. when using Music.

--Bob
Re ran ARC 2.4 disabled the fathom's crossover and in music config only have LF and RF. Set test tone to 75, LF to 75 and used sub's volume control to adjust to 75.


Doesn't look much better. Will listen to some CDs and see.


Attached are the results.

 

ARCResults100910.pdf 172.3291015625k . file


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks for the replies guys. I checked the volume for each channel using my spl meter at the main listening position after ARC and there's differences in volume and the biggest one are the rear channels. They are reading approx 71-72db and the RF is about 2db above 75db than the LF and centre. My SPL meter has been calibrated by Macca so I'm assuming it's accurate. Also when measuring the sub I was told that it's best to set the spl meter to 80 ("0" point) as the needle wont wobble and fluctuate as much and you get a more accurate reading. The thing is I've got it set perfect with the needle sitting right on -5 to the left of the "0" point being 80db. But when I switch the meter so "0" is 70db and run the test sweep the needle sits around +2 so it's reading approx 71-72db. Don't know why it doesn't read 75db as the first setting should be correct.


Don't know which to believe ARC or the spl meter?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19312010
> 
> 
> There's no set value as it depends on the room geometry and the particular speakers, but as a rule of thumb I like to use 3 feet to the wall behind and at least 18 inches to the wall to the side. Keep in mind that speakers couple to the room in the vertical dimension as well, which means that you'll get a different result if they are on feet risers or on a stand.
> 
> 
> Speakers that are set in a nook or inset in a wall or ceiling have their own peculiar problems. Center speaker are also different as it is generally assumed they will be mounted close to a flat surface behind them. But often, Center speakers need a significant amount of air space underneath them to work properly.
> 
> 
> The best starting point is to look at the manufacturer's recommendations for your speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob ....unfortunately mine doesn't at all!


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19312697
> 
> 
> This has happened to me on several occasions with various versions of ARC. I wasn't as patient as you so I aborted and would run it again. Hasn't happened for a while but not annoying enough to change the cable.
> 
> John




I also did like you and aborted. When your on position 1 of movie its a minor PITA. When your on position 4 of music, aborting is a big PITA.

I don't know if it will cure the problem, but I have tripped over the cable a few times while doing ARC runs, so its possible that the cable is the culprit.

For $4.43 for a 15' cable its cheap enough for me to try. I ordered the one that looks identical on the Monoprice website. Hope it works.


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I also did like you and aborted. When your on position 1 of movie its a minor PITA. When your on position 4 of music, aborting is a big PITA.
> 
> I don't know if it will cure the problem, but I have tripped over the cable a few times while doing ARC runs, so its possible that the cable is the culprit.
> 
> For $4.43 for a 15' cable its cheap enough for me to try. I ordered the one that looks identical on the Monoprice website. Hope it works.
> 
> 
> Tom



That's funny, I've tripped over my laptop on ocassion and the mic chord but generally it doesn't happen after those instances.

John


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19312565
> 
> 
> Instead of doing the usual 9-10 sweeps, then moving to the next speaker, it will continue to sweep on one speaker for about 50 times until it will finally show an error window telling me to check the cable connection.
> 
> Tom




I've had this happen a few times also. I never let it go far enough to get an error message since I ended up just shutting down the D2v and starting over. And tngiloyis is right, if it happens when you are just starting it isn't a big deal but when it happens towards the end of a measuring session it is a PITA to start all over again.


That's at least four of us in this rather small group who have had the problem. I find it difficult to believe we all have bad cables (mine isn't even the Anthem supplied cable).


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just spent the last hour trying to track down what I thought was a case of audio corruption on an opera Blu-Ray (HDMI LPCM input). The symptom was rapid pops repeatable at a given time code.
> 
> 
> Turns out it was just the baritone, who's a big lad, stepping on a squeaky floor piece on the stage. How do I know? It also lets out a pop when he lifts his foot.
> 
> 
> The problem with a good audio setup sometimes, is you hear things you aren't really supposed to hear.
> 
> --Bob



That's why I've switched to my iPod, I don't have to hear all this accurate sound.









John


----------



## SimonNo10

Since updating to 3.0 I'm now getting a pop up window just verifying the mic serial number before ARC continues. Didn't get that with the previous version, is that normal? Forgot to mention it.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/19313098
> 
> 
> I've had this happen a few times also. I never let it go far enough to get an error message since I ended up just shutting down the D2v and starting over. And tngiloyis is right, if it happens when you are just starting it isn't a big deal but when it happens towards the end of a measuring session it is a PITA to start all over again.
> 
> 
> That's at least four of us in this rather small group who have had the problem. I find it difficult to believe we all have bad cables (mine isn't even the Anthem supplied cable).



Who knows. Maybe it is a software glitch.


I hadn't heard of anyone else complaining about this problem, so I thought it was just me.


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since updating to 3.0 I'm now getting a pop up window just verifying the mic serial number before ARC continues. Didn't get that with the previous version, is that normal? Forgot to mention it.



Yes, I get that too. I believe it was in some of the beta versions as well. I first noticed this once I got my PBK kit which also has a mic.

John


----------



## SimonNo10

Ah ok as long as it's normal. Thanks


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19311141
> 
> 
> I did some testing tonight and tried some music and watched scenes of Ironman 2 and one thing that doesn't seem balanced is the sub. It just sounds louder than the rest of the system like it's running hot.



Actually watched this yesterday, I found the track to be very bass heavy especially the last fight scene. Almost every time they flew the bass seemed excessive, notably was when the guy in the silver suit flew past the air force watch tower and lands at the base.


This was decoding in the D2v played back at -10dB. I also was running the system based on ARC's 10 point calibration with it's automatically detected 3.9xxxx room gain, set ARC's sub HPF to flat, 80Hz crossovers across the board(adjusted and calculated in ARC).......I've been running this since loading ARC 3.0 last week to see how ARC seems in it's near default settings.



> Quote:
> Maybe my Oppo isn't suffering from this problem and by setting the sub level in the Oppo to +5 it's running the sub to hot.



It's possible. You could check by hooking up the SPDIF(assuming that still works in your unit) and comparing to the analog input with the AIX tones, use the 5.1 LPCM and DD tests with no processing(ie source preset modes set to None for both inputs). Don't be too concerned with the absolute reading itself, you're only concerned that the difference between the main channels and sub channel is the same on both analog and SPDIF. Also ensure the on the fly channel level adjustments are set to zero in each mode.



> Quote:
> I saw the amber light flash more than once on the Submersive which indicates it's coming close to over doing it and I don't want to damage it.



That extra output below 25Hz could be contributing to drawing excessive amp power. Maybe reduce the sub volume to bring that sub 30Hz pre ARC rise down to the target line and re measure. Not sure as I haven't tested how it affects ARC, but it may change the way ARC decides it's filters and reduce that post ARC sub 25Hz rise. The other thing you can try is changing the ARC sub Flat setting to a 1st or 2nd order filter at 20Hz to reduce the low Hz output as if there is content there it draws a lot of amp power.


Cheers


----------



## AltaHomeTheatre

I thought I would post my latest ARC results and would appreciate any comments. I believe the graphs and results are better than anything I have had in the past.


A couple issues I see are:

1) dip at 200 Hz. This is most noticable in center channel but visible in all graphs. I looked at some of my old results and it has always been there. Is this serious? Any suggestions to improve?


2) Drop off at 10k Hz. I moved max eq up to attempt to correct but this resulted in the calculated curves being jagged.


I think the biggest improvement has been bass response. The curves are much better than past results. Using the new features helped a lot with the sub setup.


Of course I could be totally off base and the results could be poor. I am still lost when it comes to reading these results.


Thanks

Darryl


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AltaHomeTheatre* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought I would post my latest ARC results and would appreciate any comments. I believe the graphs and results are better than anything I have had in the past.
> 
> 
> A couple issues I see are:
> 
> 1) dip at 200 Hz. This is most noticable in center channel but visible in all graphs. I looked at some of my old results and it has always been there. Is this serious? Any suggestions to improve?
> 
> 
> 2) Drop off at 10k Hz. I moved max eq up to attempt to correct but this resulted in the calculated curves being jagged.
> 
> 
> I think the biggest improvement has been bass response. The curves are much better than past results. Using the new features helped a lot with the sub setup.
> 
> 
> Of course I could be totally off base and the results could be poor. I am still lost when it comes to reading these results.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Darryl



Your charts look good. Sub should be excellent. Centre channel dip may be due to positioning or angle at the listening position. Listen to it for a while to see what it sounds like. Pay attention to centre dialogue. As far as the correction limit, try using the default 5K as many of us have found it to be excellent. It is also recommended by Anthem. I get the same wiggles when I raise the correction limit. I have not noticed any reduction in high freq at 5K compared to 15K so go with what sounds best to you.

John


----------



## RobertR

I'm sorry if this has been asked and answered, but I'm curious about the video processing in the AVM 50V. I just got an Oppo BDP83 and have questions:


a. Can video processing be defeated so that one can get a "pure" video signal from the player?


b. If not, should the Oppo be set to send "pure" video with no processing of its own?


c. How does the output from AVM 50V processed video compare with video from the Oppo without going through the AVM 50? Better, worse, about the same (I realize the AVM 50 likely gives one more flexibility, but I'm only talking about how good the picture looks)? TIA


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/19313796
> 
> 
> I'm sorry if this has been asked and answered, but I'm curious about the video processing in the AVM 50V. I just got an Oppo BDP83 and have questions:
> 
> 
> a. Can video processing be defeated so that one can get a "pure" video signal from the player?
> 
> 
> b. If not, should the Oppo be set to send "pure" video with no processing of its own?
> 
> 
> c. How does the output from AVM 50V processed video compare with direct video from the Oppo? Better, worse, about the same (I realize the AVM 50 likely gives one more flexibility, but I'm ony talking about how good the picture looks)? TIA



You can not bypass the video processor in the Anthem when using HDMI video input. However the default settings produce clean output when fed clean, 1080p input.


My recommendation for the Oppo is that you set it to output 1080p for everything. (1080p/24 for Blu-Ray movies). Its video processor is good enough that you'll get great results that way, and the Anthem's video processor won't get in the way. This also means you can use some convenience features in the Oppo such as the Zoom modes which are disabled if you use Source Direct from it.


My recommended video output settings in the Oppo BDP-83, when connected via HDMI to an AVM 50v or D2v are:


Explicit 1080p output resolution (not Auto, and not Source Direct)

16:9 Wide/Auto

1080p/24 Auto (even if your display doesn't handle /24)

DVD/24 OFF

TV System Multi

YCbCr 4:2:2 data format (not Auto)

30-bit (Dithered) "deep color"

De-interlacing Auto

Cue Correction Auto


In the Anthem, use the factory default settings for the video input levels (Video Source Adjust > Picture), e.g., Brightness, etc.


--Bob


----------



## RobertR

Thanks for the quick response, Bob! One more question: I'm using a CRT projector, and am feeding it 1080i. Should I still use the Oppo settings you listed and set the Anthem to output 1080i?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AltaHomeTheatre* /forum/post/19313464
> 
> 
> I thought I would post my latest ARC results and would appreciate any comments. I believe the graphs and results are better than anything I have had in the past.
> 
> 
> A couple issues I see are:
> 
> 1) dip at 200 Hz. This is most noticable in center channel but visible in all graphs. I looked at some of my old results and it has always been there. Is this serious? Any suggestions to improve?
> 
> 
> 2) Drop off at 10k Hz. I moved max eq up to attempt to correct but this resulted in the calculated curves being jagged.
> 
> 
> I think the biggest improvement has been bass response. The curves are much better than past results. Using the new features helped a lot with the sub setup.
> 
> 
> Of course I could be totally off base and the results could be poor. I am still lost when it comes to reading these results.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Darryl



In addition to what JAYRAY recommended, if you can't improve the Measurements for Center near 200Hz by pointing/positioning, try pulling back on the Room Gain ARC is trying to preserve in the solution. On the charts, Room Gain shows as the shallow hump near the crossover frequencies. So a smaller Room Gain will mean ARC has less to correct across that dip in Center.


You could pull back Room Gain by 1dB for example and the residual error left for Center would likely be OK.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/19313840
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick response, Bob! One more question: I'm using a CRT projector, and am feeding it 1080i. Should I still use the Oppo settings you listed and set the Anthem to output 1080i?



Yes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Lots of people with good audio setups are reporting that Iron Man 2 has a very aggressive LFE track.


If that's too much for folks, keep in mind that you can use the "temporary" volume trims to reduce the entirety of subwoofer output, or just the LFE component of that. Just remember to clear that again when you are done with the movie.


See Section 4.6 in the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19313278
> 
> 
> Who knows. Maybe it is a software glitch.
> 
> 
> I hadn't heard of anyone else complaining about this problem, so I thought it was just me.
> 
> 
> Tom



We've also had a couple reports in the past that some firewall software interferes with the USB input -- which gets reported as a mic/cable failure.


Try temporarily turning off the software firewall running in your computer, as well as any other background tasks you might have running, while doing your ARC Measurements.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19313199
> 
> 
> Since updating to 3.0 I'm now getting a pop up window just verifying the mic serial number before ARC continues. Didn't get that with the previous version, is that normal? Forgot to mention it.



That's normal. You can now have multiple mic files installed and this gives you a chance to tell ARC which mic you are actually using.


This is mainly important for custom installers.


If you do get more than one mic line listed, for example if you got a replacement mic from Anthem, be sure you select the correct one. ARC can tell whether or not you are using an ARC mic, but it CAN'T tell if you are using the CORRECT ARC mic. If you tell it the wrong one, the wrong mic calibration data will be used.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

I did another 6 position cal today this time moving the sub away from the wall and now it's it front of the lowline unit to the right with the amp side facing the screen. Here are the results. I zeroed out the levels for each speaker redid the LF and Sub with the SPL meter to read 75db and proceeded with running ARC.


What do you think?


And yes Ironman 2 has some insane bass scenes like the Fly By of the tower, Ironman approaches the stage before the fight, the landing of the drones, and when one drone fires a missle at Ironman and he leans back to avoid it. All really powerful bass moments boadering on excessive imo.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19314056
> 
> 
> I did another 6 position cal today this time moving the sub away from the wall and now it's it front of the lowline unit to the right with the amp side facing the screen. Here are the results. I zeroed out the levels for each speaker redid the LF and Sub with the SPL meter to read 75db and proceeded with running ARC.
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> 
> And yes Ironman 2 has some insane bass scenes like the Fly By of the tower, Ironman approaches the stage before the fight, the landing of the drones, and when one drone fires a missle at Ironman and he leans back to avoid it. All really powerful bass moments boadering on excessive imo.



These look good and the result should sound excellent.


I wouldn't suggest you do anything more with the sub. It's fine as is. That small dip at 30Hz is small enough and limited enough in frequency range that it isn't worth going after.


ARC built a little more Room Gain into this solution. I don't think you can add any more without screwing up the RF speaker in the high bass and low mid-range. By eye, your room really doesn't look like it has any inherent Room Gain so my recommendation would be to leave it as is.


As before your only real problem is in the LF speaker, but it is looking much better now. I'd say you are down to the point of fine tweaking on it.


First of all, the dip around 2.5KHz might respond to some experiments in rotating that speaker either side of where it is pointing now -- i.e., its toe-in. Even though ARC has mostly corrected that, the dip is wide enough in frequency range that this would be a starting point if you want to do any more tweaking. Quick Measure should make this easy to try.


Next, ARC has chosen an 85Hz cutoff/crossover for LF/RF. Your speakers don't go particularly deep in bass, but that's no problem because the sub has fine, high-bass frequency output so they are covered. But the rule of thumb for picking a crossover is that you want to have good correction for one octave below that point -- 1/2 the crossover frequency. That's the transition range where bass is being output simultaneously by the speaker and the sub and mixed together by your ears.


That means you'd like to see the residual error no more than about 1dB all the way down to 42.5Hz in the case of an 85Hz crossover. You've got that in RF, but not in LF.


If you are up to more positioning experiments with LF, you could use Quick Measure to see if you can improve its bass output below 50Hz without screwing anything else up.


OR, you could tweak the ARC solution by raising the cutoff/crossover for LF/RF as well to 90 or 95Hz and see what the resulting Calculated curves look like. You don't have to re-Measure to do this, so you can test this quite quickly. If the result looks good, then you can Upload it. I suggest you do that in a copy of your ARC results file so you can keep what you've got now as an easy fall back.


Changing the cutoff will alter how ARC allocates its correction resources, so be sure to look at the full frequency range of the results to see if the changed value is really better. You don't have to change anything for the sub when doing this. ARC will adjust the sub as needed.


And again, this is "tweaking". What you've got right now is not bad. The range in which you fail the "rule of thumb" is only about 1Hz either side of 44Hz.


---------------------------------------------


Now would also be a good time to double check the things you have to set manually even when using ARC, just in case something got missed in your earlier looking at this.


Check that you have correctly identified your surrounds as Direct firing or Dipole in Speaker Configuration.


Check your speaker distance settings in Listener Position. Remember, you've moved some speakers.


Check that you have "1 Sub" specified for Movie and Music Speaker Configuration.


And check that the Polarity and Phase settings are correct for your sub in its new position. For guidance on this see the post links in the Setup section of the first post of this thread.


Lastly, go into Setup > Source Setup and check each of your Source Definitions:


* Room EQ ON?

* Dolby Volume OFF?

* Sources of analog audio set to ANLG-DSP?


If you make any changes above, remember to Save User and Installer Settings so you don't accidentally undo things by restoring from those later.


Then sit back and enjoy.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/19313840
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick response, Bob! One more question: I'm using a CRT projector, and am feeding it 1080i. Should I still use the Oppo settings you listed and set the Anthem to output 1080i?



I should have told you that I'm assuming you are using HDMI or DVI from the Anthem to your projector, and that the projector is HDCP (copy protection) compliant.


If that's not true -- if you need to run Component video to the projector -- then you can't use HDMI from the Oppo to the Anthem due to the copy protection stuff.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I mentioned above that I had switched in the "default" solution for my room from ARC V3.0 and I pointed out some of the differences between that and my "tweaked" solution that I'd be listening for.


Well, I'm having trouble hearing any differences. I know they are in there so I'll just have to listen harder, but the point is, the un-tweaked "default" solution sounds very good as well. In particular, I've got plenty of LFE, and I am not hearing any reduction in quality in low pitched male voices in Center. I think the difference is going to come down to which solution I prefer in the treble, but since most of the correction I added up there for the "tweaked" solution is happening in just Center and the Surrounds, it is going to be a bear to find content where that might make a significant difference.


So declaring the victor here will take closer examination. Stay tuned:












--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

MACCA350,


Have you gotten any response from Anthem on the channel level differences you reported? In particular, have they given you any reason to believe something might have changed in "test" firmware V2.10b?

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> MACCA350,
> 
> 
> Have you gotten any response from Anthem on the channel level differences you reported? In particular, have they given you any reason to believe something might have changed in "test" firmware V2.10b?
> 
> --Bob



Not as yet Bob. Since you mentioned the beta version was up I've put in a request for access through the local distributors. Should hear back this week, hopefully with an update on progress. I doubt the issue has been rectified as yet given the beta release notes, but you never know. Have you had a chance to try it out?


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not as yet Bob. Since you mentioned the beta version was up I've put in a request for access through the local distributors. Should hear back this week, hopefully with an update on progress. I doubt the issue has been rectified as yet given the beta release notes, but you never know. Have you had a chance to try it out?
> 
> 
> Cheers



Not yet. Too busy trying to judge my ARC tweaks -- using LPCM of course.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19313873
> 
> 
> We've also had a couple reports in the past that some firewall software interferes with the USB input -- which gets reported as a mic/cable failure.
> 
> 
> Try temporarily turning off the software firewall running in your computer, as well as any other background tasks you might have running, while doing your ARC Measurements.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.

I'll try that next ARC run.


Tom


----------



## runnerlk

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
Have you tried redoing the ARC setup from scratch? That would eliminate the possibility that your Music configuration got screwed up.


We have lots of people posting here who use Music configuration with the sub excluded, so I don't think there's a bug in ARC V3.0 for this or we would have heard more complaints by now. I still think the most likely thing is that there is a simple settings error -- some difference between your settings when using Movie vs. when using Music.

--Bob
Well, I disabled the sub crossover, set my test tone and Lf to 75db, sub to 0

re-ran ARC 2.4. Not much change, though I watched Iron Man 2 last night and the dialog aout of my VS Visiun CC sounded clearer. But 2 channel stinks. Bass ok, mid and hi lack any detail. With my CJ Preamp in a theater loop with the D2 I am able to very quickly A/B on the fly and no comparison. the CJ kills the D2. So, ARC is doing something. I have PCM for SACD out of the Oppo. running in Pure Audio mode. I will try analog to the D2 and post. Here are my new charts. Any comments appreciated.

 

ARCResults100910.pdf 172.3291015625k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runnerlk* /forum/post/19316326
> 
> 
> Well, I disabled the sub crossover, set my test tone and Lf to 75db, sub to 0
> 
> re-ran ARC 2.4. Not much change, though I watched Iron Man 2 last night and the dialog aout of my VS Visiun CC sounded clearer. But 2 channel stinks. Bass ok, mid and hi lack any detail. With my CJ Preamp in a theater loop with the D2 I am able to very quickly A/B on the fly and no comparison. the CJ kills the D2. So, ARC is doing something. I have PCM for SACD out of the Oppo. running in Pure Audio mode. I will try analog to the D2 and post. Here are my new charts. Any comments appreciated.



I don't see the Center or Sub for Movie in the charts you posted here.


At this point I think you should give Anthem tech support a call and see if they can suggest anything. The red Measured curves on LF/RF don't look good between 60 and 400Hz. If you don't think those results are real, tackling that would seem to be the starting point, as false Measured data would of course result in bad corrections. Because you have the sub in the Movie mix, ARC isn't pushing so hard to try to fill in those dips -- thus less "false correction" if that's in fact what's happening.


I suggest you send Anthem your ARC results file in the email (not just the captures of the charts). They have tools they can use to view the raw data in the file. Perhaps your mic has failed. You will likely also need to spend some time on the phone with them walking through your audio hookup and settings to see if they can find any gotchas in that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well upon further review, I've decided I like my "tweaked" ARC V3.0 setup better than ARC's "default" choices.


The difference, as I expected, is primarily in the treble. I can hear better attack on percussive treble such as the ringing of the prisoners' chains at the beginning of "Pirates of the Caribbean 3: At World's End", Blu-Ray. The ringing itself is not all that high frequency, but the attack as they strike IS.


In general the treble sounds more open and airy with the "tweaked" setup.


Now part of the problem with a "better" audio setup is that you also hear defects in the content. Geoffrey Rush's "Barbossa" dialog in that same movie has some looped parts where he was too close to the studio mic, so you hear "snake hiss" in sibilants. And the better treble in the "tweaked" setup makes that more noticeable.


But if you listen to vocals that are more carefully recorded, there is none of that. For example, the singing samples on the AIX calibration disc (playing the 5.1 mix).


Again, since almost all of the correction applied between 5 and 15KHz in my "tweaked" solution is in Center and the Surrounds, I need to concentrate on sound effects and dialog to hear differences. My usual 2 channel music test tracks are useless for this comparison. Nevertheless I've also played my stereo music tests, and they too sound great.


Anyway, I've now convinced myself that my "tweaked" ARC V3.0 solution really is better, and it is now my reference configuration.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/19313840
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick response, Bob! One more question: I'm using a CRT projector, and am feeding it 1080i. Should I still use the Oppo settings you listed and set the Anthem to output 1080i?



Robert:


I also have a similar setup almost like yours (Oppo SE & 50v). In your case, if the projector can handle a maximum resolution of 1080i only and is HDMI fed, then I'd try it 2 ways:


1. Set the max resolution in the Oppo and the 50v to 1080i. The Oppo will faithfully convert 1080p disks to 1080i.......OR


2. Set the Oppo to Source Direct. This will pass on the disk resolution unprocessed to the 50v. The VXP-based signal processor in the Anthem is just as excellent as the one in Oppo IMO. It is no slouch by any means at all so it will also convert any 480i signals from SDVD's and 1080p signals BD's from the Oppo to 1080i w/o artifacts to your projector.


The good thing is that you can try both options fairly easily and see for yourself. Goodluck finding any differences


----------



## dmusoke

I have noticed something about ARC that I didn't notice before. I get smoother curves with 8 positions than with the standard 5 positions. I find that i get smoother corrections curves with less wiggles. So ARC can correct my lower lows and higher highs in a better fashion than before. Has anyone noticed this as well?


I offer this solution for those of us with trouble some rooms. It may take longer, but its worth it. In my case, i had the following arrangement:


-------------------> X .... *X* ... X


-------------------> .... X .... X


-------------------> X .... X .... X


with *X* being my listening position.... and I have a small listening room, living in an apartment(







) but enough to meet the minimum 2 feet spacing between mic positions. My listening position is 10 feet from my speakers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The reason I recommend 1080p input even if you have a 1080i display is that the first thing the Anthem will do with 1080i input is de-interlace it into its internal video buffer anyway.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have noticed something about ARC that I didn't notice before. I get smoother curves with 8 positions than with the standard 5 positions. I find that i get smoother corrections curves with less wiggles. So ARC can correct my lower lows and higher highs in a better fashion than before. Has anyone noticed this as well?
> 
> 
> I offer this solution for those of us with trouble some rooms. It may take longer, but its worth it. In my case, i had the following arrangement:
> 
> 
> -------------------> X .... X ... X
> 
> 
> -------------------> .... X .... X
> 
> 
> -------------------> X .... X .... X
> 
> 
> with X being my listening position.... and I have a small listening room, living in an apartment(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but enough to meet the minimum 2 feet spacing between mic positions. My listening position is 10 feet from my speakers.



This is interesting. We've had very few reports from people trying different numbers of mic positions.


Can you HEAR an improvement in your 8 position solution?

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks Bob. Before redoing ARC I measured the distance per speaker with a Laser distance device I just purchased at a harware store so it's very accurate. I did this and put that data in and made sure everything else you mentioned was covered which it was. I'm happy your happy with the results but will play around with the cossovers as you suggested and see what I get.


Just think after I all the calibrations I've done over the last few weeks will be for nothing as my replacement unit should be here in a week or 2







. Best part of this is I've become very familar with the Anthem and it's settings thanks to you. Just wish I was knowledgable in the field of hz and these graphs that ARC produces. Also my 2nd submersive should be here around late Nov early Dec so will need to test where the best positions are for both...should be fun.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19316930
> 
> 
> This is interesting. We've had very few reports from people trying different numbers of mic positions.
> 
> 
> Can you HEAR an improvement in your 8 position solution?
> 
> --Bob



Yes i do, especially in the lower bass regions. The LFE crossover transitions are very smooth and the bass is potent! I have two (2) 18Hz subs in opposite corners in my living room. They pressurize the room nicely and I even feel (hear?) LFE sounds from commercials and movie previews of all things. Granted, I tweaked ARC settings a bit but I've done this before and never got these results.


Another strange thing... I often spend quite some time phase matching my subs to the LF speaker by reversing the phase of the LF speaker and run frequency tones within the crossover region (90 - 110Hz) to look for the maximum null by adjusting the phase angle in the anthem. This technique has worked well for me in the past due to poster here a while back (thanks davoe!).


Now, in this setup I have, I couldn't find an appreciable null for all possible phase angles! I don't know what to make of this new observation. I have posted my graphs for your reference. Does this mean I'm perfectly phase matched?


PS:


Now I have an unopened brand-new-in-the-box SVS-EQ1 sub equalizer that I don't know what to do with







!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19317074
> 
> 
> Yes i do, especially in the lower bass regions. The LFE crossover transitions are very smooth and the bass is potent! I have two (2) 18Hz subs in opposite corners in my living room. They pressurize the room nicely and I even feel (hear?) LFE sounds from commercials and movie previews of all things. Granted, I tweaked ARC settings a bit but I've done this before and never got these results.
> 
> 
> Another strange thing... I often spend quite some time phase matching my subs to the LF speaker by reversing the phase of the LF speaker and run frequency tones within the crossover region (90 - 110Hz) to look for the maximum null by adjusting the phase angle in the anthem. This technique has worked well for me in the past due to poster here a while back (thanks davoe!).
> 
> 
> Now, in this setup I have, I couldn't find an appreciable null for all possible phase angles! I don't know what to make of this new observation. I have posted my graphs for your reference. Does this mean I'm perfectly phase matched?
> 
> 
> PS:
> 
> 
> Now I have an unopened brand-new-in-the-box SVS-EQ1 sub equalizer that I don't know what to do with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !



What's your mic ordering for your 8 positions? I.e., your same layout except for numbers instead of the X's.


Also what's your spacing between mics on a row and between rows?


----------------------------------------


In these charts, the thing that jumps out at me is the poor Measured response from LF/RF in the range 70-150Hz. Do you know what's going on with that? The residual error after ARC's correction, particularly for RF, is still larger than I'd like to see. And ARC is already using a highish crossover for LF/RF to try to evade that dip.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19317313
> 
> 
> What's your mic ordering for your 8 positions? I.e., your same layout except for numbers instead of the X's.
> 
> 
> Also what's your spacing between mics on a row and between rows?
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In these charts, the thing that jumps out at me is the poor Measured response from LF/RF in the range 70-150Hz. Do you know what's going on with that? The residual error after ARC's correction, particularly for RF, is still larger than I'd like to see. And ARC is already using a highish crossover for LF/RF to try to evade that dip.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


My satellites are the CRM2's from sunfire and are small and on stands without much bass below 100Hz or so. They are 2 feet from the side and back walls. They have side-firing woofers and ribbons for transducers. I could place them closer to the wall for better bass response but the imaging and ambience suffers. I choose them for their use of ribbons as transducers whose pick up is from about 1KHz and go up to 40KHz based from the manufacturer's data.


I spent the whole day yesterday playing with their placement and this the best placement i could have so far. Their lack of output below 100hz is augmented by the center speaker whose output is good down to 70Hz or so plus the subwoofers output is set to 90Hz. So i figure these two outputs compensate for the low outputs of the LF/RF speakers below 100Hz.


And the results so far are outstanding IMO. I'm sure it can further be improved but spending another whole day shiftng speakers and subs around is not appealing to me right now (crawling around on the floor in my apartment for hours and hours with no A/C is one of the reasons







).


What's your take on the phase question i had earlier?


PS

Forgot to mention that I have 2 bass traps in the front corner walls that are 6ft x 4ft by 0.5ft in dimension from ReadyTraps Inc to tap some of the resonances I had in my small room.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19317313
> 
> 
> What's your mic ordering for your 8 positions? I.e., your same layout except for numbers instead of the X's.
> 
> ....*YES*
> 
> 
> Also what's your spacing between mics on a row and between rows?
> 
> ....*Approx 2.0 to 2.5ft*
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In these charts, the thing that jumps out at me is the poor Measured response from LF/RF in the range 70-150Hz. Do you know what's going on with that? The residual error after ARC's correction, particularly for RF, is still larger than I'd like to see. And ARC is already using a highish crossover for LF/RF to try to evade that dip.
> 
> --Bob



See my answers above...


----------



## SimonNo10

Hey Bob did as you suggested and tried with 90hz for the fronts and here are the results. What do you think? I didn't change anything else.


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Is there a reset for D2v's remote controls?

Because one of my RC is not recognized by my D2v anymore.

Of course I changed the batteries and all the buttons light up when pressed.

And I also selected the Main device but nothing helps.

Any idea?


Thanks


----------



## runnerlk

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
I don't see the Center or Sub for Movie in the charts you posted here.


At this point I think you should give Anthem tech support a call and see if they can suggest anything. The red Measured curves on LF/RF don't look good between 60 and 400Hz. If you don't think those results are real, tackling that would seem to be the starting point, as false Measured data would of course result in bad corrections. Because you have the sub in the Movie mix, ARC isn't pushing so hard to try to fill in those dips -- thus less "false correction" if that's in fact what's happening.


I suggest you send Anthem your ARC results file in the email (not just the captures of the charts). They have tools they can use to view the raw data in the file. Perhaps your mic has failed. You will likely also need to spend some time on the phone with them walking through your audio hookup and settings to see if they can find any gotchas in that.

--Bob
Yes at this point I think I will contact Anthem and see what they say.


Here are my full ARC results.

 

ARCResults100910.pdf 172.3291015625k . file


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19316930
> 
> 
> This is interesting. We've had very few reports from people trying different numbers of mic positions.
> 
> 
> Can you HEAR an improvement in your 8 position solution?
> 
> --Bob



I would expect the graphs to be smoother with more mike locations. I believe you are averaging out the nulls from room modes by using more points. Although your charts may look smoother, the actual sound will likely not be as good in your specific listening location if you are using more positions than you actually have seating positions.


Remember that ARC is trying to correct for specific seating location problems. The more seating locations, the less specific problems are actually fixed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would expect the graphs to be smoother with more mike locations. I believe you are averaging out the nulls from room modes by using more points. Although your charts may look smoother, the actual sound will likely not be as good in your specific listening location if you are using more positions than you actually have seating positions.
> 
> 
> Remember that ARC is trying to correct for specific seating location problems. The more seating locations, the less specific problems are actually fixed.



The averaging effect is certainly real. The red Measured curve for example is a simple, unweighted average over all the mic positions. More positions will likely result in a smoother looking curve.


But the interesting thing is that he is reporting that more positions yields better SOUNDING results. It would be good to hear from more people who might have tried this to see if his case was special.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Here are the latest measurements/results. I installed SW 2.10b and went from ARC beta 2.4.17 to 3.0. I went the auto route and left all settings at default.


The measured outcome in my room is typically solid although the calculated sub didn't result in as soomth a curve as I normally get. The outcome sounds as good as ever.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/19318066
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Is there a reset for D2v's remote controls?
> 
> Because one of my RC is not recognized by my D2v anymore.
> 
> Of course I changed the batteries and all the buttons light up when pressed.
> 
> And I also selected the Main device but nothing helps.
> 
> Any idea?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yes. See Section 5.6 of the Manual. The complete reset process involves erasing any user programmed stuff using the procedure in Section 5.6, and then also resetting the control codes for each of Main, Zone 2, and Zone 3 using the codes listed at the start of Appendix B.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/19319054
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Here are the latest measurements/results. I installed SW 2.10b and went from ARC beta 2.4.17 to 3.0. I went the auto route and left all settings at default.
> 
> 
> The measured outcome in my room is typically solid although the calculated sub didn't result in as soomth a curve as I normally get. The outcome sounds as good as ever.



These results look good. I don't see any problem in the green Calculated curve for your sub.


My concern would be that your surrounds are weak in bass which puts the burden on the sub to handle bass fairly high up for them. When the cutoff for the surrounds is higher than for the sub that can indicate a problem -- a hole in the transition. You didn't post your Music charts but the 80Hz cutoff for the sub and the 140Hz cutoff for the side surrounds likely means there is a problem -- a significant dip through the crossover region. On these Movie charts, I don't think you've got a serious problem, but there will be a minor dip in the crossover from either the side or rear surrounds to the sub.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19317998
> 
> 
> Hey Bob did as you suggested and tried with 90hz for the fronts and here are the results. What do you think? I didn't change anything else.



Yes that fixed the problem I mentioned in LF near 44Hz, and doesn't appear to have produced any new problems.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/19319054
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Here are the latest measurements/results. I installed SW 2.10b and went from ARC beta 2.4.17 to 3.0. I went the auto route and left all settings at default.
> 
> 
> The measured outcome in my room is typically solid although the calculated sub didn't result in as soomth a curve as I normally get. The outcome sounds as good as ever.



Ralph,

I agree with Bob, your sub looks really good and should sound awesome. Your chart for the sub looks very similar to mine and I can tell you it does sound awesome. I can't remember which sub you have. I checked one of your reviews and saw the sub. should sound great.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19317586
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> My satellites are the CRM2's from sunfire and are small and on stands without much bass below 100Hz or so. They are 2 feet from the side and back walls. They have side-firing woofers and ribbons for transducers. I could place them closer to the wall for better bass response but the imaging and ambience suffers. I choose them for their use of ribbons as transducers whose pick up is from about 1KHz and go up to 40KHz based from the manufacturer's data.
> 
> 
> I spent the whole day yesterday playing with their placement and this the best placement i could have so far. Their lack of output below 100hz is augmented by the center speaker whose output is good down to 70Hz or so plus the subwoofers output is set to 90Hz. So i figure these two outputs compensate for the low outputs of the LF/RF speakers below 100Hz.
> 
> 
> And the results so far are outstanding IMO. I'm sure it can further be improved but spending another whole day shiftng speakers and subs around is not appealing to me right now (crawling around on the floor in my apartment for hours and hours with no A/C is one of the reasons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> What's your take on the phase question i had earlier?
> 
> 
> PS
> 
> Forgot to mention that I have 2 bass traps in the front corner walls that are 6ft x 4ft by 0.5ft in dimension from ReadyTraps Inc to tap some of the resonances I had in my small room.



The Center can't compensate for poor output from LF/RF because each channel has to play its own specific content. Think of it this way: If LF/RF failed completely would a "perfect" Center speaker conceal that fact?


The crossover on LF/RF is 100Hz so the sub won't see any steered bass from them above that -- which means it can't help at all with an uncorrected dip between 100 and 150Hz. In addition RF and to a lesser degree LF isn't hitting its Target curve and so the portion of the audio it is supposed to produce below 100Hz (to mix with the output the sub is also producing from steered bass) is weak.


That is, ALL the speakers need to hit their black dashed Targets curves to get a good mix of audio from all of them.


Normally you'd address a problem like this by raising the cutoff for LF/RF and Sub so that LF/RF didn't have to try to produce output in that weak region. But it doesn't look like your sub is capable of going much higher than ARC is using with it now, so these results may indeed be the best you can get with these speakers. LF is almost fully corrected, so if you try to tweak this further, concentrate on the positioning for RF.


---------------------------------------------


On the 8 mic position stuff, what I was asking is for you to specify the order of mic placements you used, starting with #1 in the center. I.e., where is #2, where is #3, etc.


---------------------------------------------


I've lost track of the phase question you asked. What was it you were asking?

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19319368
> 
> 
> Ralph,
> 
> I agree with Bob, your sub looks really good and should sound awesome. Your chart for the sub looks very similar to mine and I can tell you it does sound awesome. I can't remember which sub you have. I checked one of your reviews and saw the sub. should sound great.
> 
> John



Greetings,


Yup no issues at all. My equipment/room have traditionally sounded excellent. Regarding Bob's mention of the low bass output of my surrounds and their transitioning over to the sub it has been this way from the beginning. Based upon the amount of bass that is normally mixed to them in a multi-channel configuration it hasn't proven to be a problem.


Regards,


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19319323
> 
> 
> These results look good. I don't see any problem in the green Calculated curve for your sub.
> 
> 
> My concern would be that your surrounds are weak in bass which puts the burden on the sub to handle bass fairly high up for them. When the cutoff for the surrounds is higher than for the sub that can indicate a problem -- a hole in the transition. You didn't post your Music charts but the 80Hz cutoff for the sub and the 140Hz cutoff for the side surrounds likely means there is a problem -- a significant dip through the crossover region. On these Movie charts, I don't think you've got a serious problem, but there will be a minor dip in the crossover from either the side or rear surrounds to the sub.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Bob, here are the charts for my music configuration.


Regards,


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/19312117
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm new to this forum but have used it in the extensively in the past to help me set-up my AVM 50v so many thanks to all the contributors, especially Bob.
> 
> 
> Since I upgraded the AVM 50v firmware to v2.10 I've been having a couple of strange problems and I wondered if anyone else has had anything similar. The upgrade itself all went OK and, in general, I'm very, very, happy with the sound.
> 
> 
> The first problem is that with certain tracks the sound just stops, always exactly at the same point, on the same tracks. I've determined the problem is with the AVM 50V because using my Sonos system (FLAC files) the sound stops using the digital connection (both coax and optical) but plays fine using the analogue connection. If I play the same track using the original CD via my Arcam DV88 the sound again stops at exactly the same point.
> 
> 
> I've checked the AVM config and AUTO DIG is set to 'NO'. I've also found that changing the AUDIO IN from COAX to OPTICAL whilst playing the music restores the sound, as does just pressing pause/play on the Sonos.
> 
> 
> The second problem is that I'm getting a 'popping' from the front left speaker, again only on certain tracks and always at the same point in the track. I've swapped the left/right input to my power amp and the 'popping' moved to the right speaker. This seemed to eliminate an issue with either the power amp or the speaker. Again, the same problem occurs if I play the track via CD or Sonos.
> 
> 
> I should add that all of the tracks I'm having issues with used to play fine in the past. Also, I recently upgraded to ARC 3.0 and the problems were the same before and after, and I'm not having any issues with DVD, Blu-Ray or satellite sound, just music.
> 
> 
> I've raised both problems with Anthem Tech Support but not had any solutions yet. My real query is if anyone else is having similar problems or has any ideas what the problem may be?
> 
> 
> Just to add one last comment - I think the Anthem AVM 50v is a great bit of kit and overall I'm incredibly happy with it. I'd just like to resolve these two issues to have it absolutely perfect.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> GT



I've found the solution to the 'popping' I was getting from one speaker. For some time I've been using a MAX EQ setting of 7500 on ARC as this seemed to give me the best sound. When I installed ARC 3 I just carried on using this setting. After some testing this weekend I found that if I used the default setting of 5k the 'pops' disappeared.


I've now re-done all my room measurements and come to the conclusion that the 5k default setting gives me the best sound.


Maybe something went wrong when I re-did the measurements after installing ARC 3, but I thought the problem started prior to this. Anyway everything is sounding great now.


Unfortunately I still cannot find a reason why the sound just stops on certain tracks so awaiting Anthem for an answer to this.


----------



## barhoram

Our theater has a 16:9 screen. I've just added some panels to the top and bottom to make it 2.35:1. Since we rarely watch anything but movies, I think I will leave them in place. If we did want to watch something in 16:9...say HDTV, Is there any way with the D2's video scaler (Crop Input..Custome I'm guessing) to adjust the 16:9 outpt to fit into the smaller 2.35:1? I realize I would now have extra space on the sides...but this would allow me to leave the panels in place.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/19319850
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Bob, here are the charts for my music configuration.
> 
> 
> Regards,



Yeah that's pretty much what I expected.


Now you CAN get full-range bass in the surrounds for multi-channel Music. It looks to me like you can push the cutoff for the sub up to 120Hz. And then sneak the cutoff for the Surrounds down from the 140Hz it's at now. You may or may not be able to get it all the way down to 120Hz. If you try 120Hz for them, check for smooth Calculated curves and for good correction at least down to 60Hz for them.


If that combo works, you could try some tweaking in Movie as well. ARC is designed to prefer cuts instead of boosts when it can do that, so that's probably why it is not trying to boost the low end of the Surrounds more.


Your RR speaker's dip in high bass will likely limit your ability to lower the crossover for Rears.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/19320042
> 
> 
> Our theater has a 16:9 screen. I've just added some panels to the top and bottom to make it 2.35:1. Since we rarely watch anything but movies, I think I will leave them in place. If we did want to watch something in 16:9...say HDTV, Is there any way with the D2's video scaler (Crop Input..Custome I'm guessing) to adjust the 16:9 outpt to fit into the smaller 2.35:1? I realize I would now have extra space on the sides...but this would allow me to leave the panels in place.



Check out the Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling post links in the first post of this thread for the details, but the short answer is "No", there is no "squeeze" function in the Anthems. This was a design choice made by Anthem because a squeeze function discards video resolution.


If you don't mind swapping an anamorphic lens in and out with your regular lens then you can do a Constant Image Height setup.


In a CIH setup you crop the video input down to 2.35:1 using the Custom Crop function in the Anthem, and then apply Anamorphic scaling in the Anthem which causes that to be stretched vertically in a uniform fashion to just fill the 16:9 video output stream. Now this distorts the image -- circles look like tall ovals. But you pop in your anamorphic projector lens and it optically widens the image again. The result is a 2.35:1 image, without distortion, that uses every pixel in the 16:9 video output stream from the Anthem instead of wasting a lot of them transmitting the black letter-box bars -- thus better resolution.


When you play 16:9 content, you turn off the Custom Crop so that the entire 16:9 input stream gets used. You can leave Anamorphic scaling on because it has no work to do since the 16:9 input matches the 16:9 output from the Anthem.


If you leave your Anamorphic lens in place on the projector, the result, again, will be that this fills your 2.35:1 screen, but the image is now distorted -- stretched horizontally -- circles look like wide ovals. The fix of course is to put back in your normal lens. When you do that the image will be 16:9 in shape (no distortion), will fill the 2.35:1 screen top to bottom (thus "Constant Image Height"), and will leave a portion of the 2.35:1 screen unused on either side. For added classiness, you hang blackout drapes that can be partially closed on either side to conceal the unused portion of the screen

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Yes that fixed the problem I mentioned in LF near 44Hz, and doesn't appear to have produced any new problems.



Thanks Bob. Now I can sit back and enjoy some movies until the replacement unit arrives.


----------



## dmusoke

---------------------------------------------


On the 8 mic position stuff, what I was asking is for you to specify the order of mic placements you used, starting with #1 in the center. I.e., where is #2, where is #3, etc.


.....#3......#1......#2

.........#4 ......#5

.....#6......#7......#8

---------------------------------------------


I've lost track of the phase question you asked. What was it you were asking?

Another strange thing... I often spend quite some time phase matching my subs to the LF speaker by reversing the phase of the LF speaker and run frequency tones within the crossover region (90 - 110Hz) to look for the maximum null by adjusting the phase angle in the anthem. This technique has worked well for me in the past due to poster here a while back (thanks davoe!).


Now, in this setup I have, I couldn't find an appreciable null for all possible phase angles! I don't know what to make of this new observation. I have posted my graphs for your reference. Does this mean I'm perfectly phase matched?


--Bob[/quote]


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Where do you consider your primary, center seat to be? Between #4 and #5, or where you have #1 now?


The #1 mic position should be at your primary, center seat since that's the mic location that's used in setting the speaker levels.


If #1 really should be in the middle of the front row then a better set of mic placements would be:


3...........1............2

......5............4

7...........8.............6


This gives you more separation between sequential mic locations and also alternates either side of #1.


------------------------------------------------------


I don't have a ready explanation for your Phase result. Of course there are some mistakes that could produce this result, such as if your ARC-chosen crossover values were not in place and the crossover was, say at 80Hz, below the frequency range you were testing. Or if LF was mistakenly set to Large or "full range" while you were running the phase check so that no bass steering to the sub was happening.


Since you already know what to listen for in this test, I think the fact that you found no null is suspicious rather than an indication that things are "perfect". But there are some relative placements of sub and LF speaker that could cause enough reflections the phase cancellation got muddied (hard to hear).

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19322639
> 
> 
> Where do you consider your primary, center seat to be? Between #4 and #5, or where you have #1 now?
> 
> 
> The #1 mic position should be at your primary, center seat since that's the mic location that's used in setting the speaker levels.
> 
> 
> If #1 really should be in the middle of the front row then a better set of mic placements would be:
> 
> 
> 3...........1............2
> 
> ......5............4
> 
> 7...........8.............6
> 
> 
> This gives you more separation between sequential mic locations and also alternates either side of #1.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I don't have a ready explanation for your Phase result. Of course there are some mistakes that could produce this result, such as if your ARC-chosen crossover values were not in place and the crossover was, say at 80Hz, below the frequency range you were testing. Or if LF was mistakenly set to Large or "full range" while you were running the phase check so that no bass steering to the sub was happening.
> 
> 
> Since you already know what to listen for in this test, I think the fact that you found no null is suspicious rather than an indication that things are "perfect". But there are some relative placements of sub and LF speaker that could cause enough reflections the phase cancellation got muddied (hard to hear).
> 
> --Bob



Sorry for not being clear before...#1 is my primary listening position. Your suggestion makes sense to alternate the microphone positions as you indicated. I will re-measure and re-do the phase measurements as well.


Now for something cheesy...would you recommend to use the bass loudness control to "help" performance in the 100Hz region







?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19322667
> 
> 
> Sorry for not being clear before...#1 is my primary listening position. Your suggestion makes sense to alternate the microphone positions as you indicated. I will re-measure and re-do the phase measurements as well.
> 
> 
> Now for something cheesy...would you recommend to use the bass loudness control to "help" performance in the 100Hz region
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?



No. First off those settings have no effect when taking ARC Measurements.


Applying them AFTER you've set up ARC will boost both LF and RF, but LF is almost corrected already so it will now be out of whack. And finally, I don't know what the contour is for those controls but the Bass tone adjustment likely centers below 100Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" Firmware V2.10c for D2v / AVM 50v Now on Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem tech support has, late this evening, placed D2v and AVM 50v "test" firmware V2.10c on their password protected download page. Change notes for changes since "official" firmware V2.10 now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.10c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Changed Dolby Volume default to Off and Dolby Volume Leveler to Low.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.10b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Further muting fixes, for a certain music server.



The default setting changes for Dolby Volume are certainly welcome. Note that if you ALREADY have a firmware version with Dolby Volume installed then these changes won't appear to take effect. That's because they apply to the "factory default" settings and the last step of your firmware install will be to reload the Saved User Settings you saved prior to the install.


Which means whatever settings you already had in effect for Dolby Volume On/Off and its Leveling value will return unchanged.


If this is the FIRST firmware version you've installed with Dolby Volume then, yes these changes will be in effect. But what have you been waiting for? Dolby Volume is in "official" firmware V2.10.


And of course if you Reload Factory Defaults after installing this firmware then these new default values will now be set.


I don't know if there are any other undocumented changes such as an attempt to adjust the channel levels mismatch MACCA350 reported. Post if you find anything interesting!


"Test" firmware for the original D2 and AVM 50 remains at V1.47f, so nothing new there yet.


As always, keep in mind that "test" firmware is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises requiring you to roll back to a previous version.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/19319054
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Here are the latest measurements/results. I installed SW 2.10b and went from ARC beta 2.4.17 to 3.0. I went the auto route and left all settings at default.
> 
> 
> The measured outcome in my room is typically solid although the calculated sub didn't result in as soomth a curve as I normally get. The outcome sounds as good as ever.



Hi Ralph.


I definitely agree with Bob and Jayray. Everything looks good except for your surrounds. You're asking your sub to step into unfamiliar territory with the 135 cutoff. If you could work with your surrounds to get a lower cutoff, like down to 120 or lower, would be best, and your sub will thank you for it. Other than that, you should be golden.


----------



## xMEATx

What USB to serial cable is recommended for arc and other updates? I know this has been posted before but I cannot find it. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What USB to serial cable is recommended for arc and other updates? I know this has been posted before but I cannot find it. Thanks



Keyspan USA-19HS. Attach this to your computer. The "straight through" serial cable goes from this to the back of the Anthem. It can be left permanently attached back there

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19323138
> 
> 
> What USB to serial cable is recommended for arc and other updates? I know this has been posted before but I cannot find it. Thanks



USA 19H, Keyspan USB Serial adapter. Most recommended and so far, very reliable. Make sure you download the most recent windows driver to ensure reliablility.

John


----------



## xMEATx

Thank you for your responses.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Installed "test" firmware V2.10c. No problems, no surprises.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Installed "test" firmware V2.10c. No problems, no surprises.
> 
> --Bob



Same here.

John


----------



## Ralph Potts

Greetings,


Alright I tweaked the surrounds in both configurations. John/Bob Thoughts??


Regards,


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/19325858
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Alright I tweaked the surrounds in both configurations. John/Bob Thoughts??
> 
> 
> Regards,



,


Ralph,

Your measured curves look quite good. I'm not an expert on the crossovers like Bob, but it looks like you're getting close to the sub cutoff so Bob may have a last ditch suggestion. How does it sound? Sometimes when we get this close to nervana







the law of diminishing returns rears it's ugly head. I would guess it sounds excellent. Am I right?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/19325858
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Alright I tweaked the surrounds in both configurations. John/Bob Thoughts??
> 
> 
> Regards,



I think these are definitely better than the prior results.


In Movie I see you stopped at 125Hz for the Rears. I presume something went wrong in Right Rear when you tried 120Hz. Anyway, the gap is tiny enough that I think you've got a good solution for Movie.


For Music, I'm puzzled why you stopped at 100Hz for the sub. Did something go wrong when you pushed the sub up to 120Hz? If not, I'd be inclined to run the Music sub at 120Hz, as well as lowering the Side Surrounds to 120Hz as you've already done.


It looks like you are getting to the limit of how far you can lower the Music Sides and still have a clean result. But you don't really need to go lower since I think your sub can stretch up there to meet them.


The only real problem with having a crossover that high is that bass starts to get localizable above about 100Hz. (Of course the 120Hz you have now is better than the 140Hz ARC was using in this regard.) So for example if you have any dialog in the surrounds you might hear a portion of it as coming "from the sub". But this is not nearly as much a problem for surrounds as it would be for the fronts, or even worse for Center. And given that your Sides and Rears have their limitations for bass output, getting a smooth transition through the crossover is preferable even if some high bass has to be sent to the sub.

--Bob


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19326104
> 
> 
> I think these are definitely better than the prior results.
> 
> 
> In Movie I see you stopped at 125Hz for the Rears. I presume something went wrong in Right Rear when you tried 120Hz. Anyway, the gap is tiny enough that I think you've got a good solution for Movie.
> 
> 
> For Music, I'm puzzled why you stopped at 100Hz for the sub. Did something go wrong when you pushed the sub up to 120Hz? If not, I'd be inclined to run the Music sub at 120Hz, as well as lowering the Side Surrounds to 120Hz as you've already done.
> 
> 
> It looks like you are getting to the limit of how far you can lower the Music Sides and still have a clean result. But you don't really need to go lower since I think your sub can stretch up there to meet them.
> 
> 
> The only real problem with having a crossover that high is that bass starts to get localizable above about 100Hz. (Of course the 120Hz you have now is better than the 140Hz ARC was using in this regard.) So for example if you have any dialog in the surrounds you might hear a portion of it as coming "from the sub". But this is not nearly as much a problem for surrounds as it would be for the fronts, or even worse for Center. And given that your Sides and Rears have their limitations for bass output, getting a smooth transition through the crossover is preferable even if some high bass has to be sent to the sub.
> 
> --Bob



Greetings,


Bob, I stopped at 100hz because at 120hz I got a bit of a dip in the 65 hz region. I tweaked the crossover to 110hz and it smoothed out nicely. I haven't uploaded yet but will try things tomorrow. Movies rock so no problem there.


My setup typically sounds great so these minor iterations will more than likely make it all the better. We'll see..











Regards,


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19322707
> 
> *New "Test" Firmware V2.10c for D2v / AVM 50v Now on Password Protected Download Page!*
> 
> 
> Anthem tech support has, late this evening, placed D2v and AVM 50v "test" firmware V2.10c on their password protected download page. Change notes for changes since "official" firmware V2.10 now read as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The default setting changes for Dolby Volume are certainly welcome. Note that if you ALREADY have a firmware version with Dolby Volume installed then these changes won't appear to take effect. That's because they apply to the "factory default" settings and the last step of your firmware install will be to reload the Saved User Settings you saved prior to the install.
> 
> 
> Which means whatever settings you already had in effect for Dolby Volume On/Off and its Leveling value will return unchanged.
> 
> 
> If this is the FIRST firmware version you've installed with Dolby Volume then, yes these changes will be in effect. But what have you been waiting for? Dolby Volume is in "official" firmware V2.10.
> 
> 
> And of course if you Reload Factory Defaults after installing this firmware then these new default values will now be set.
> 
> 
> I don't know if there are any other undocumented changes such as an attempt to adjust the channel levels mismatch MACCA350 reported. Post if you find anything interesting!
> 
> 
> "Test" firmware for the original D2 and AVM 50 remains at V1.47f, so nothing new there yet.
> 
> 
> As always, keep in mind that "test" firmware is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises requiring you to roll back to a previous version.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Any idea what the "certain music server" is?


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/19326788
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Any idea what the "certain music server" is?
> 
> 
> -Brian



No idea. Which is probably a good thing, because if DID know I'd probably just blab it, and then they'd have to shoot me.


And I hate it when that happens!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/19326689
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Bob, I stopped at 100hz because at 120hz I got a bit of a dip in the 65 hz region. I tweaked the crossover to 110hz and it smoothed out nicely. I haven't uploaded yet but will try things tomorrow. Movies rock so no problem there.
> 
> 
> My setup typically sounds great so these minor iterations will more than likely make it all the better. We'll see..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,



OK, this is where the fun begins. Ready for some manly "tweaking"?


ARC has decided that your room has 4dB or more of Room Gain, and so it is trying to preserve 4dB of that in your solution. Processing technicalities are responsible for the oddball 3.9xxx number shown in the Targets window.


You can probably drop a half dB of that without hearing the difference.


So the first thing you might try is to drop the Movie Room Gain to 3.5dB and see if that change simplifies the correction problem for RR enough that you can lower it to 120Hz.


Meanwhile, my personal preference is to have about 1dB less of Room Gain for Music than for Movie. Keep in mind that I play, almost exclusively, stereo content into my Music configuration. I play multi-channel music into my Movie configuration. I also drop the Center speaker from my Music configuration to enhance the front sound stage for that stereo content. And of course your tastes may differ from mine. So -- simply put -- your mileage may vary.


But I think you could play with lowering Room Gain down as far as 2.5dB for Music and end up with a "better" sounding Music configuration. And that may give you the extra degree of freedom you need to raise the sub to 120Hz, or lower the surrounds to 110Hz, or have them meet in the middle at 115Hz!


Now for BOTH of these, keep in mind that Room Gain changes are going to affect all the speakers, and perhaps in a way that cause ARC to redistribute its correction resources. So a change in Room Gain could cause errors to crop up in any speaker at any frequency.


For Music, I'd start by setting the sub to 120Hz and then finding a Room Gain -- lower than the current 3.9+ value -- which results in a clean curve for the sub. Then adjust the cutoffs for the other speakers as necessary to clean up their curves with that Room Gain, but trying to keep them no higher than 120Hz.


For Movie, you already know you can get the sub up to 120Hz so set the Rears down to 120Hz and see if you can find a Room Gain setting in the range of say 3.2 to 4dB that gives you clean results for all the speakers.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19327412
> 
> 
> No idea. Which is probably a good thing, because if DID know I'd probably just blab it, and then they'd have to shoot me.
> 
> 
> And I hate it when that happens!
> 
> --Bob



Hrrrmmpphhh...I remember when these things were openly discussed and talked about. How many times did we discuss Scientific Atlanta boxes with shoddy HDMI, or AppleTV initially not playing nice, or certain Canadian DVR's giving the D2 fits (doh! there I go with that word "certain"), etc. etc. etc.


I miss the old days when we were all beta testing and bashing vendors openly, now that stuff is considered "thought crime" in the new world of Anthem.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" ARC V3.0.1 Now on Password Protected Download Page!*


Anthem Tech Support has this evening placed "test" ARC V3.0.1 on their password protected download page. Change notes for changes since "official" ARC V3.0 now read as follows:



> Quote:
> v3.0.1 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for quick measure crash caused by starting measurement then disconnecting mic then clicking "disconnect" or the "X".
> 
> 
> 2. When multiple cal files are present, popup that lists them goes to foreground instead of background.



Neither of the problems fixed here will change the nature or quality of the ARC solution, so I'd say there's certainly no need to rush to redo your ARC setup.


However, if you like using Beta software, you might as well install this new version of the ARC application prior to your next ARC run.


There are no changes in the Manuals or Utilities included in the ARC download kit. (The Manual for the upcoming MRX 300, 500 and 700 Receivers was updated about a week ago, and that same version is still in this ARC download kit.)


As always, keep in mind that Beta software is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises. Keep your current ARC solution file as a fallback.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/19327580
> 
> 
> Hrrrmmpphhh...I remember when these things were openly discussed and talked about. How many times did we discuss Scientific Atlanta boxes with shoddy HDMI, or AppleTV initially not playing nice, or certain Canadian DVR's giving the D2 fits (doh! there I go with that word "certain"), etc. etc. etc.
> 
> 
> I miss the old days when we were all beta testing and bashing vendors openly, now that stuff is considered "thought crime" in the new world of Anthem.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Last I heard, we're STILL bashing Scientific Atlanta boxes!









--Bob


----------



## gonzalc3

Bob,


Quick question is the extended RGB the standard 7.5 IRE and the studio RGB is the 0 IRE setting in the D2v? Or it goes the other way around?


Thanks


C


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Quick question is the extended RGB the standard 7.5 IRE and the studio RGB is the 0 IRE setting in the D2v? Or it goes the other way around?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> C



Studio RGB is the standard for home theater use when RGB is used at all. Black is sent as digital 16 on HDMI. That corresponds to 7.5 IRE on Component. Blacker than Black and Peak White data are also present.


Extended RGB is intended for computer graphics. Black is sent as digital 0. That corresponds to 0 IRE on Component. Blacker than Black and Peak White data are lost.


For more details, see the Technology and Terminology post links in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## steven2583

Room gain. What is the purpose of room gain number? Am I trying to get a lower room gain number. I'm thinking of adding bass traps and acoustic tile around to make my room sound better without ARC. I figured it would sound even better after ARC. I know I'm getting early reflections at my listening area because my speakers are too close too the wall Thiel 3.7 left front 1 foot, right front 3.5 feet. Should I expect my room gain to go down once I put in the bass traps?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583* /forum/post/19330317
> 
> 
> Room gain. What is the purpose of room gain number? Am I trying to get a lower room gain number. I'm thinking of adding bass traps and acoustic tile around to make my room sound better without ARC. I figured it would sound even better after ARC. I know I'm getting early reflections at my listening area because my speakers are too close too the wall Thiel 3.7 left front 1 foot, right front 3.5 feet. Should I expect my room gain to go down once I put in the bass traps?



Yes, once you add bass traps and other acoustic treatments, your room gain will probably go down some because you will not be getting as much reflection from the room. At least, that's what I'm experiencing in my treated room. However, you have to be careful to not over treat the room because then it will be dead and you really don't want a dead sounding room. Bass Traps and the first reflection points are a good start. After that treatment, I would stop and have a listen. Good luck to you and enjoy.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583* /forum/post/19330317
> 
> 
> Room gain. What is the purpose of room gain number? Am I trying to get a lower room gain number. I'm thinking of adding bass traps and acoustic tile around to make my room sound better without ARC. I figured it would sound even better after ARC. I know I'm getting early reflections at my listening area because my speakers are too close too the wall Thiel 3.7 left front 1 foot, right front 3.5 feet. Should I expect my room gain to go down once I put in the bass traps?



ARC attempts to Measure the inherent Room Gain in your listening room and preserve up to 4dB of that in its solution (you can change this) -- even as it works diligently to remove other room response characteristics. Room Gain shows on the charts as the shallow hump in the black dashed Targets curves near the crossover frequencies. If you call the flat part of the Target curves to the right of the crossovers the "basic volume level" of the solution, then you can see that the Room Gain value is simply the height of the peak of that hump, in dB, over the basic volume level. So 0dB Room Gain would mean no hump at all.


Typical listening rooms will have 2-6 dB of Room Gain. Large rooms or rooms with extensive acoustic treatments will have little or no Room Gain, but this is not really a good thing as movie mixers, in particular, build mixes assuming a modest amount of Room Gain in the home theater. Music mixers have no such consensus, but generally speaking music mixers assume less Room Gain than movie mixers.


Sometimes ARC gets fooled in its Measurements by dips in the main speakers near the crossovers. This looks like a negative Room Gain, which has no useful physical reality. So ARC limits Room Gain to a small positive value in such cases.


The advantage of preserving Room Gain, in addition to matching the expectations of the mixers who make the content, is that "natural" sounds in those frequencies that might occur in the room and also in listening content will sound the same. This is part of the "feel" of listening to stuff in a good listening room. Large rooms, or over-treated rooms which Measure as "flat" can produce a "dull" or "dead" feel. People vary in how sensitive they are to this difference. For example, a treated room will also remove many of the undesirable room response characteristics, so it will sound so much better for that reason that the loss of Room Gain is not noticed.


The result of including Room Gain in the solution is just what you might expect from the shape of the Target curves.


All that said, positioning your speakers and treating your room acoustically to get the best looking Measured (uncorrected) curves is definitely a good approach to getting even better results from ARC. Just keep in mind that "flat" is not really the desired result.

--Bob


----------



## steven2583

My room is 15 w, 8 h, 35 l not counting the open kitchen beyond that. I have my surrounds in the rear(12 feet from the couch) up by the ceiling pointing down at an angle to the couch about 23 feet away from the front. Two subwoofers about 10 feet from the front wall on the sides. I'm putting some bass panels(2" Fiberglass on sealed wood panel box 3" deep, 92" tall and 2' wide ) against the front walls behind the speakers. Then 2 2" x 2' x 4' fiberglass on each side of the room at first reflection and then 4 panels on the ceiling. Which I think will leave plenty of surface area (glass and drywall) for other relections so I'm hoping it won't be too dead or the deadness will be closer to the TV which no one spends much time in the first 10 feet in front of the TV.



ARC currently makes quite a difference. From lean sound to a lot fuller sound ad a wider soundstage.


----------



## steven2583

Thanks for the information


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/19327580
> 
> 
> Hrrrmmpphhh...I remember when these things were openly discussed and talked about. How many times did we discuss Scientific Atlanta boxes with shoddy HDMI, or AppleTV initially not playing nice, or certain Canadian DVR's giving the D2 fits (doh! there I go with that word "certain"), etc. etc. etc.
> 
> 
> I miss the old days when we were all beta testing and bashing vendors openly, now that stuff is considered "thought crime" in the new world of Anthem.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Does AppleTV now work via HDMI to the D2 and/or D2v? Has anyone tried the new AppleTV yet?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/19331360
> 
> 
> Does AppleTV now work via HDMI to the D2 and/or D2v? Has anyone tried the new AppleTV yet?



HDMI from the old AppleTV and the Mac Mini should both work with the D2v and with "test" firmware V1.47f on the D2. I don't think we've had a report on the new AppleTV yet.

--Bob


----------



## Nantha1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Does AppleTV now work via HDMI to the D2 and/or D2v? Has anyone tried the new AppleTV yet?



I recently started using the new Apple TV. For the most part works very well with HDMI. Sometimes there is few seconds delay for the video to appear when switching inputs. Not sure if this is D2v or Apple TV. Overall very satisfied with Netflix...the best Netflix streaming experience so far. iTunes lossless streaming works very well. But I have not tested sound quality vs digital cd playback.


Nantha


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19311141
> 
> 
> I did some testing tonight and tried some music and watched scenes of Ironman 2 and one thing that doesn't seem balanced is the sub. It just sounds louder than the rest of the system like it's running hot. I calibrated it to read 75db on the SPL then ran ARC and it set the level trim to -1.5. I believe setting the sub channel in the Oppo to +5 is causing this when using the analogs. I know Macca said that the sub channel when using the analogs was lower and you need to compensate that by setting it to +5 but to my ears it's just too loud and not balanced with the rest of the speakers.
> 
> 
> Maybe my Oppo isn't suffering from this problem and by setting the sub level in the Oppo to +5 it's running the sub to hot. I saw the amber light flash more than once on the Submersive which indicates it's coming close to over doing it and I don't want to damage it. The listening volume was -10 on the Anthem and the line level is set to -4.5 to achieve the 75db before running ARC using my SPL Meter (Analog) with a fresh battery and the proper settings as well C Weight Slow Response.




Hi, you don't want to increase the Oppo sub-level as this will likely cause clipping in portions where there is a lot of bass. Check out the Oppo BDP-83 FAQ .


H/W the important text:



> Quote:
> What are the proper subwoofer/LFE settings?
> 
> 
> Some definitions:
> 
> LFE
> 
> Low-frequency effect (LFE); an audio channel for low-pitched sounds.
> 
> bass steering or bass management or LFE Crossover
> 
> redirecting a portion of the bass from other channels to the LFE output, making it into a "subwoofer" output (LFE and steered bass already combined).
> 
> 
> 
> The Short Version:
> 
> Bass management occurs in the player for analog output only. With digital, bass management happens in the AVR or prepro. So, if you are using analog, set the speaker sizes in the player. If you are using digital, set them in the AVR.
> 
> The only exception to doing analog bass management in the player occurs with a few expensive receivers that can redigitize the analog inputs. In those cases, the user should set speakers to large and output levels to 0db, which allows the AVR to handle bass management.
> 
> 
> The OPPO outputs analog LFE -10db when speakers are set to large and -15db when any speakers are set to small.
> 
> 
> With analog, the user needs to apply the 10db or 15db boost in his receiver or at the sub itself. Unlike digital, where the AVR software applies the needed boost, most receivers do not do this by default with analog. It's up to the user to apply it himself.
> 
> 
> If the receiver cannot do the needed boost, you can add up to 10db of gain for the subwoofer channel in the OPPO. But that's not the recommended approach because it runs the risk of clipping during extremely loud passages.




For my system I lower the other channels by 5dB and then increase the analog multi-channel input for the subwoofer (in my Pioneer AVR) by 10dB as my speakers are set to small in the Oppo. This prevents the clipping phenomenon and I can control the dB levels by the volume control







Waiting to buy one of the MRX AVRs which is why I am lurking in the forum to pick up any tips and advice.


Hope this helps. Cheers.


Tony


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/19331968
> 
> 
> Hi, you don't want to increase the Oppo sub-level as this will likely cause clipping in portions where there is a lot of bass. Check out the Oppo BDP-83 FAQ .
> 
> 
> H/W the important text:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my system I lower the other channels by 5dB and then increase the analog multi-channel input for the subwoofer (in my Pioneer AVR) by 10dB as my speakers are set to small in the Oppo. This prevents the clipping phenomenon and I can control the dB levels by the volume control
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting to buy one of the MRX AVRs which is why I am lurking in the forum to pick up any tips and advice.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps. Cheers.
> 
> 
> Tony



The problem is that FAQ is incorrect. The Oppo BDP-83 is actually putting out the analog subwoofer signal at -15dB (with respect to the other channels) EVEN WHEN all speakers are set to Large.


Setting speakers to Large in the player is the correct thing to do when you are letting the D2v do bass management for you -- which is the normal situation with the D2v (and mandatory if you also want to use ARC for that input).


Apparently what Oppo is doing is an alternate method approved by Dolby Labs many years ago, but it does leave folks with a problem as now the analog input signal needs to be boosted 15dB instead of the standard 10dB already provided by the D2v on that analog LFE input.


However, there's an easy solution because the extra -5dB attenuation of that Oppo subwoofer output IS NOT NEEDED in the Oppo in this case where all speakers are set to Large in the Oppo. It is only needed in the case where some speakers are set to Small in the player (to accommodate the additional signal being mixed into the subwoofer output from those Small speakers). So using a +5dB subwoofer volume trim in the Oppo is fine when all speakers are set to Large. There will be no clipping.


This is preferable to lowering the other channels -5dB, because that increases the noise floor for all the other channels. I.e., the audio is reduced down closer to the noise level, and when you increase volume later you are also amplifying that base level of noise.


-------------------------------------------------


In your case -- with your Pioneer -- you have chosen to let the Oppo player do bass management for you (speakers set to Small in the Oppo). This is very different from the way you would use the Oppo with the Anthem.


In your case, the -15dB attenuation of the subwoofer output is *NECESSARY* as it now has to contain both LFE and steered bass from those Small speakers. The LFE is already recorded -10dB down (to accommodate the large bass peaks it contains) and so it is lowered an additional -5dB. The steered bass from the small speakers is lowered a full -15dB and added to that, together making the new, combined, subwoofer output signal at -15dB compared to the other channels. (Note that all this increases the noise floor on the subwoofer signal, but that's not really a problem for bass.)


Now getting the needed +15dB boost is the challenge. You CAN'T boost the subwoofer output from the Oppo, not even +5dB, without risking clipping. Again, this is only because you have some speakers set to Small in the Oppo so there's extra bass in that output signal -- not just LFE content.


Most AVRs have an option, and it is usually even the factory default, to provide the "standard" +10dB boost on their analog LFE input. Then, as you say, you can lower the Oppo's output of the other speakers by -5dB (leaving its sub output volume trim at 0dB) and everything is lined up again -- except shifted -5dB lower in volume. You correct that by turning up the main volume knob by +5dB. This works, but at the expense of raising the noise floor on the other speakers.


Another approach works if your AVR has output level trims which are only applied to digital audio inputs. I.e., analog audio is "pass through", but digital audio processing includes speaker output volume trims. In that case you take the unaltered signal from the Oppo -- including the sub output which is down -15dB with respect to the other speakers -- and raise the volume knob on your sub to balance that against the other speakers. Depending upon whether or not your AVR has already applied the "standard" +10dB boost to that analog LFE input, the amount you need to raise the volume knob on the sub is either +5dB or +15dB.


Next you go into the global, digital audio output volume trim settings, or perhaps the setup for each digital audio input, and you DECREASE its subwoofer output by that same amount for digital audio sources.


So for analog from the Oppo, things are balanced because the sub's volume is raised. And for digital audio sources, things are balanced because the AVR's sub output is attenuated by just the amount you've raised that sub's volume knob.


---------------------------------------------


Again, all of that stuff is only necessary because you have the Oppo doing bass management for you (some speakers set to Small). With the D2v you don't do that. You set all speakers to Large in the Oppo and let the D2v do the bass management. But because of the unusual, -15dB analog sub output level from the Oppo, you need to take the additional step of providing +5dB subwoofer volume trim in the Oppo. (This only affects the multi-channel ANALOG output from the Oppo.)

--Bob


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19332113
> 
> 
> The problem is that FAQ is incorrect. The Oppo BDP-83 is actually putting out the analog subwoofer signal at -15dB (with respect to the other channels) EVEN WHEN all speakers are set to Large.
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I didn't realise the Oppo was doing this. The FAQ states that the .1 LFE signal is -10dB for large speakers and 15dB for small speakers (e.g. when the Oppo is doing bass management). I never measured it.


Cheers.


P.S. thanks for your insights into the Anthem/ARC stuff - much appreciated.


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19332113
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In your case -- with your Pioneer -- you have chosen to let the Oppo player do bass management for you (speakers set to Small in the Oppo).
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Agreed. This is to output a Pure Direct analogue signal from the Oppo into my Pioneer as I don't like the digital signal processing/DACs/MCACC. The subwoofer is parametrically equalised by a Velodyne SMS-1. One of the reasons I am looking forward to the MRX receivers.










Cheers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/19332149
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I didn't realise the Oppo was doing this. The FAQ states that the .1 LFE signal is -10dB for large speakers and 15dB for small speakers (e.g. when the Oppo is doing bass management). I never measured it.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> P.S. thanks for your insights into the Anthem/ARC stuff - much appreciated.



Until very recently, I too thought that FAQ section was correct. Turns out it isn't (confirmed by Oppo).

--Bob


----------



## Ron Alcasid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/19331360
> 
> 
> Does AppleTV now work via HDMI to the D2 and/or D2v? Has anyone tried the new AppleTV yet?



I was a little hesitant when I ordered one since the previous Apple TV has some problems but it works surprisingly well with my AVM50 running on the 1.33 firmware.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nantha1* /forum/post/19331558
> 
> 
> I recently started using the new Apple TV. For the most part works very well with HDMI. Sometimes there is few seconds delay for the video to appear when switching inputs. Not sure if this is D2v or Apple TV. Overall very satisfied with Netflix...the best Netflix streaming experience so far. iTunes lossless streaming works very well. But I have not tested sound quality vs digital cd playback.
> 
> 
> Nantha



Yes, agreed, the new AppleTV is working quite nicely via HDMI to the D2V. I retired my old AppleTV, sad but true - the new one barely gets warm but now I need to find a new way to fry eggs in the morning. I hear there are these things called "frying pans"??? Sounds like some new-fangled tech gadget. I'll wait til the technology matures 


I am loving the faster GUI response, the streaming Netflix is WAY better than Tivo or XBox implementation, and the killer app is the new free Remote app from Apple for the iPad...controls the AppleTV perfectly! They also make one for the phone/touch, but you gotta see how nice the iPad version is! Uses the full screen real estate, high resolution screen. We got rid of the sleek little apple remote, we never find ourselves using it...the iPad stays in the living room, and we just use that.


BTW, another reason it stays in the living room is the WONDERFUL new PS Audio app for my PWD DAC/Network Bridge, but I digress! Finally able to stream 24bit/192KHz FLAC and WAV files from my NAS thru the excellent DAC of the PS Audio PWD and then into the D2V for ARC to do its thing. Despite the multiple D/A (from the PWD), then A/D/A conversion steps (from the D2V with AnalogDSP active), the sound quality is absolutely stunning! All controlled by the iPad app remote that PS Audio makes now. I sit back in the recliner, dial up the Eagles "When Hell Freezes Over" on the iPad app, and bam, 24bit/192 FLAC source sounding amazing thanks to ARC!


I am finding myself ripping all my old DVD-Audio discs, getting the 24bit/96KHz or 24/192 "Advanced resolution" out of them, and streaming it over thru the PWD along with all the old FLAC files from my low rez CD material. Good stuff. I've been on an absolute buying spree on ebay to grab old used DVD-Audio discs, just to get more high rez material! There's also so many high rez audio web sites now, no need to use "old-fashioned" DVD-Audio's even, places like HDtracks.com, B&W Society of Sound, iTrax and others.


For the musically obsessed among us, these are beautiful times!


Cheers guys, hope everyone is well.

Brian


----------



## xMEATx

Man, my d2 is in McAllen, instead of McKinney, TX. The wait is killing me. Thanks UPS.


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19308902
> 
> 
> Meanwhile the default solution reduces sub output above 80Hz compared to the tweaked solution. *This won't alter steered bass since the crossovers from the main speakers are all below that,* but it should reduce the upper end of LFE (which can go up to 120Hz). Now there's not much important LFE content up there -- not nearly so critical as what happens BELOW 80Hz -- but we'll see what it sounds like.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, in my limited experience with the D2, I found that this is not the case. As measured afterwards with my Velodyne SMS-1, I found that in 2 ch DSP the Anthem does send signals to the subwoofer that are well beyond the front speakers crossover.


In my case, the limits in ARC are set to 80hz for all speakers and the sub is set to 120hz. When uploaded, the crossovers in the Anthem also get set to 80hz and 120hz respectively. But when I send the signal from my SMS-1 through an analog DSP input and turn off the front channel amp, the sub plays flat up to 120hz. If I turn off the sub, the front channels play down to 80hz.


Therefore, I think the the upper limit of the sub does effect bass redirection and not just LFE. This is different that I would have expected, but I think it is necessary to get proper integration between my S2's and F113.


I'll try to update my post with screen shots.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19335461
> 
> 
> Bob, in my limited experience with the D2, I found that this is not the case. As measured afterwards with my Velodyne SMS-1, I found that in 2 ch DSP the Anthem does send signals to the subwoofer that are well beyond the front speakers crossover.
> 
> 
> In my case, the limits in ARC are set to 80hz for all speakers and the sub is set to 120hz. When uploaded, the crossovers in the Anthem also get set to 80hz and 120hz respectively. But when I send the signal from my SMS-1 through an analog DSP input and turn off the front channel amp, the sub plays flat up to 120hz. If I turn off the sub, the front channels play down to 80hz.
> 
> 
> Therefore, I think the the upper limit of the sub does effect bass redirection and not just LFE. This is different that I would have expected, but I think it is necessary to get proper integration between my S2's and F113.
> 
> 
> I'll try to update my post with screen shots.



From your charts, the first thing that stands out is that I don't see why ARC Uploaded a sub crossover of 120Hz. Even though the sub cutoff is 120Hz, the other speakers aren't asking for help above 80Hz and so the sub crossover should have been Uploaded as 80Hz -- I think.


And that's precisely the case in my "tweaked" ARC V3.0 solution for example. (I.e., it is normal for the ARC sub cutoff value shown in Targets and the Uploaded sub crossover value to be different.)


Are you using "official" ARC V3.0, and with firmware V1.33 in your D2, or some other combo?


I'll see if I can reproduce your result using the bass charting system in my Velodyne DD series subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19335898
> 
> 
> From your charts, the first thing that stands out is that I don't see why ARC Uploaded a sub crossover of 120Hz. Even though the sub cutoff is 120Hz, the other speakers aren't asking for help above 80Hz and so the sub crossover should have been Uploaded as 80Hz -- I think.
> 
> 
> And that's precisely the case in my "tweaked" ARC V3.0 solution for example. (I.e., it is normal for the ARC sub cutoff value shown in Targets and the Uploaded sub crossover value to be different.)
> 
> 
> Are you using "official" ARC V3.0, and with firmware V1.33 in your D2, or some other combo?
> 
> 
> I'll see if I can reproduce your result using the bass charting system in my Velodyne DD series subwoofer.
> 
> --Bob



I'm using ARC v3.0 and test firmware 1.47f. I've never used any prior firmware versions on the D2, but I think prior ARC versions gave a similiar result.


I'm won't be home until the weekend to get a screen grab from the SMS.


Also note that the SMS is not in-line with the subwoofer. Since I acquired the D2, I've just been using the SMS for verification and help setting phase.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19336839
> 
> 
> I'm using ARC v3.0 and test firmware 1.47f. I've never used any prior firmware versions on the D2, but I think prior ARC versions gave a similiar result.
> 
> 
> I'm won't be home until the weekend to get a screen grab from the SMS.
> 
> 
> Also note that the SMS is not in-line with the subwoofer. Since I acquired the D2, I've just been using the SMS for verification and help setting phase.



OK, I can confirm what you found, although it doesn't seem to be causing any problems.


For folks who aren't familiar with them, the Velodyne DD series subs have their own bass sweep tone generators that run from the subsonic up to the low mid-range. The output is analog L/R.


You feed that into a stereo input in the D2v, and set that Source to Stereo audio mode with ARC ON. That produces output on L/R and Sub, with the Sub output consisting only of bass steered from L/R in accordance with what ARC has set up. And of course the L, R, and Sub output are all "corrected" by ARC.


Meanwhile, Velodyne provides their own calibrated mic that plugs into the sub. The sub then produces live charts of the sweep results on an S-video output.


The Velodyne SMS-1 box that MVPPSU is using has the same sweep charting system, except that it is in a separate box.


I used this setup to test my "tweaked" ARC V3.0 Movie solution. ARC charts available here (the Movie charts are the first two of these):

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19294530 


With the L/R and Sub all powered, I get precisely what I would expect from the the Calculated curves in those charts. That is there is a rise up from 15Hz into the Room Gain hump (due to the default roll off I've left in place in ARC), then flat into the low mid range, and then dropping off to the basic volume level of the solution. This was tested at ARC Mic position #1.


Then I disconnected L/R leaving only the Sub live, and the resulting curve looked just like the green Calculated curve for sub. When I adjusted the main volume so that the Velodyne sweep produced 70dB at 125Hz (which is where it is on the ARC chart), the match was unmistakeable.


And that means that the ARC solution really is sending significant amounts of steered bass to the sub ABOVE the 80Hz cutoff/crossover established for LF/RF.


When you think about it, this makes sense in that you don't want a sudden transition at any frequency.


--------------------------------------------------


But the LF/RF curves look good on their own so what does this mean? Does this higher frequency Sub output screw things up?


Well I already know the combined output looks good from the Velodyne test with all 3 speakers live.


Looking more closely at the ARC charts, it is evident that the Room Gain hump for LF/RF is slightly attenuated. Compare the peak of the green Calculated curve for LF/RF (or LS/RS which are also set to an 80Hz crossover) and you'll see it is slightly lower than the peak of the Sub curve.


So the net effect when the output of the Sub is added is to extend the Room Gain hump further to the right. And this is in fact what I see on the Velodyne sweep with all 3 speakers live.


----------------------------------------------------


Then I looked at the "default" ARC V3.0 solution charts, where the sub has a cutoff and a crossover both of 80Hz. You also have to keep in mind that I reduced Room Gain by half a dB in my "tweaked" solution. So the Room Gain hump in the "default" charts will be a half dB higher for that reason alone.


Now by the time you get up to 100 or 120Hz, the sub output is already well below the basic volume level of the solution, so it won't be contributing much. And yet it is still the case that the peak of LF/RF is a little below the peak of the Sub curve.


So that means the "default" solution has not extended the Room Gain hump quite as high in frequency as my "tweaked" solution.


I didn't actually load the "default" configuration and chart it with the Velodyne, but I'm confident this is just what is going on.


--------------------------------------------


So yes, the sub is indeed getting steered bass above the crossover frequency set for the main speakers, and raising the "cutoff" for the sub (even when its crossover is unchanged) changes the sub's response curve and thus what the sub produces from that steered bass.


But the bottom line is that it all SEEMS to work.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19335442
> 
> 
> Man, my d2 is in McAllen, instead of McKinney, TX. The wait is killing me. Thanks UPS.



Did you order LONG cables?









--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:


Here are my Level calibration settings after ARC to generate a measured 75dB sound level:


Test Level = +7dB

Dolby Vol Cal: NA

Front L = +0.5dB

Center = -1.5dB

Front R = +1.0dB

Sur Right = +1.5dB

Sur Left = +1.5dB

Movie Sub = -5.5dB

Movie Sub = -5.5dB


When I verify the SPL's using my RS meter, all speakers measure about 75dB within a dB or 1.5dB BUT when I measure the sub outputs, the readings are pegged at 68dB. Why is that and how can I resolve it? (I just placed fresh batteries in my meter).


I use balanced XLR to RCA outputs to my 2 subs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

What are you using as your source of test tones to measure this? The tones in Setup > Level Calibration, or some calibration disc's test track?


Also, verify that you have "1 Sub" set in the Movie and Music Speaker Configurations.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19338419
> 
> 
> What are you using as your source of test tones to measure this? The tones in Setup > Level Calibration, or some calibration disc's test track?
> 
> 
> Also, verify that you have "1 Sub" set in the Movie and Music Speaker Configurations.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


I use the tones in Setup > Level Calibration and yes, I have my sub setting set to 1 sub.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I use the tones in Setup > Level Calibration and yes, I have my sub setting set to 1 sub.



Then I've got no idea. That's a 10dB error (since the sub combo probably has a few dB of Room Gain built into its volume trim).


I don't think we've had any other reports like that.


You may have to give Anthem a call and walk through your configuration with them to see if they can spot anything odd

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19338372
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Here are my Level calibration settings after ARC to generate a measured 75dB sound level:
> 
> 
> Test Level = +7dB
> 
> Dolby Vol Cal: NA
> 
> Front L = +0.5dB
> 
> Center = -1.5dB
> 
> Front R = +1.0dB
> 
> Sur Right = +1.5dB
> 
> Sur Left = +1.5dB
> 
> Movie Sub = -5.5dB
> 
> Movie Sub = -5.5dB
> 
> 
> When I verify the SPL's using my RS meter, all speakers measure about 75dB within a dB or 1.5dB BUT when I measure the sub outputs, the readings are pegged at 68dB. Why is that and how can I resolve it? (I just placed fresh batteries in my meter).
> 
> 
> I use balanced XLR to RCA outputs to my 2 subs.



I had this same problem with a SPL Meter that I borrowed, it was not a RS Meter and not even sure of the name but when I purchased a Radio Shack SPL Meter my subs measured correctly.


----------



## gerard1meehan

I have a new D2v and I am having issues with the lossless audio form blu Ray disks. There are points while viewing where the sound cuts out, however the video continues without a hitch. This only occurs with lossless formats from Blu Ray (PCM, DTS, & Dolby). There is no issue with DVD's. I have Utilized both my Denon DVD 3800BDI, and My Oppo NuForce to no avail resolving this issue. Has anyone else encountered this??


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19337264
> 
> 
> OK, I can confirm what you found, although it doesn't seem to be causing any problems.
> 
> 
> For folks who aren't familiar with them, the Velodyne DD series subs have their own bass sweep tone generators that run from the subsonic up to the low mid-range. The output is analog L/R.
> 
> 
> You feed that into a stereo input in the D2v, and set that Source to Stereo audio mode with ARC ON. That produces output on L/R and Sub, with the Sub output consisting only of bass steered from L/R in accordance with what ARC has set up. And of course the L, R, and Sub output are all "corrected" by ARC.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, Velodyne provides their own calibrated mic that plugs into the sub. The sub then produces live charts of the sweep results on an S-video output.
> 
> 
> The Velodyne SMS-1 box that MVPPSU is using has the same sweep charting system, except that it is in a separate box.
> 
> 
> I used this setup to test my "tweaked" ARC V3.0 Movie solution. ARC charts available here (the Movie charts are the first two of these):
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19294530
> 
> 
> With the L/R and Sub all powered, I get precisely what I would expect from the the Calculated curves in those charts. That is there is a rise up from 15Hz into the Room Gain hump (due to the default roll off I've left in place in ARC), then flat into the low mid range, and then dropping off to the basic volume level of the solution. This was tested at ARC Mic position #1.
> 
> 
> Then I disconnected L/R leaving only the Sub live, and the resulting curve looked just like the green Calculated curve for sub. When I adjusted the main volume so that the Velodyne sweep produced 70dB at 125Hz (which is where it is on the ARC chart), the match was unmistakeable.
> 
> 
> And that means that the ARC solution really is sending significant amounts of steered bass to the sub ABOVE the 80Hz cutoff/crossover established for LF/RF.
> 
> 
> When you think about it, this makes sense in that you don't want a sudden transition at any frequency.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> But the LF/RF curves look good on their own so what does this mean? Does this higher frequency Sub output screw things up?
> 
> 
> Well I already know the combined output looks good from the Velodyne test with all 3 speakers live.
> 
> 
> Looking more closely at the ARC charts, it is evident that the Room Gain hump for LF/RF is slightly attenuated. Compare the peak of the green Calculated curve for LF/RF (or LS/RS which are also set to an 80Hz crossover) and you'll see it is slightly lower than the peak of the Sub curve.
> 
> 
> So the net effect when the output of the Sub is added is to extend the Room Gain hump further to the right. And this is in fact what I see on the Velodyne sweep with all 3 speakers live.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Then I looked at the "default" ARC V3.0 solution charts, where the sub has a cutoff and a crossover both of 80Hz. You also have to keep in mind that I reduced Room Gain by half a dB in my "tweaked" solution. So the Room Gain hump in the "default" charts will be a half dB higher for that reason alone.
> 
> 
> Now by the time you get up to 100 or 120Hz, the sub output is already well below the basic volume level of the solution, so it won't be contributing much. And yet it is still the case that the peak of LF/RF is a little below the peak of the Sub curve.
> 
> 
> So that means the "default" solution has not extended the Room Gain hump quite as high in frequency as my "tweaked" solution.
> 
> 
> I didn't actually load the "default" configuration and chart it with the Velodyne, but I'm confident this is just what is going on.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> So yes, the sub is indeed getting steered bass above the crossover frequency set for the main speakers, and raising the "cutoff" for the sub (even when its crossover is unchanged) changes the sub's response curve and thus what the sub produces from that steered bass.
> 
> 
> But the bottom line is that it all SEEMS to work.
> 
> --Bob



I just wanted to point this out for everyones information. I think this definetly helps my smaller S2's blend with the sub. In my case the F113 is very capable and I don't mind it playing higher in freq. If I had a crappy sub, it might be more of a problem since it would not be as clean as my fronts.


I wonder if ARCs subwoofer LPF implementation changes with the capability of the sub/speakers or if it always sends the full freq response based on the ARC cutoff?


----------



## PArmola

Anyone know of suffer from HDMI dropouts while using official 210. My SONY hdmi capable XA5400es now has dropout issues. It worked fine with 208. What gives? Anyone?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan* /forum/post/19339634
> 
> 
> I have a new D2v and I am having issues with the lossless audio form blu Ray disks. There are points while viewing where the sound cuts out, however the video continues without a hitch. This only occurs with lossless formats from Blu Ray (PCM, DTS, & Dolby). There is no issue with DVD's. I have Utilized both my Denon DVD 3800BDI, and My Oppo NuForce to no avail resolving this issue. Has anyone else encountered this??



What firmware do you have in the D2v? Press Select once on the Remote to see the firmware version in the display. The latest firmware is V2.10.


Audio dropouts are almost always the result of problems in the Source device, so also check that you have the latest firmware for your Blu-Ray players.


That's the easy part. Now, do the dropouts repeat at the same time code when playing a given disc? If you back up and play that portion again do you get the dropout again every time? Or do they happen at unpredictable times and do not repeat if you play that section again?


Next, how long are the dropouts? Are they quite brief? Or does the audio cut out for several seconds?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PArmola* /forum/post/19340121
> 
> 
> Anyone know of suffer from HDMI dropouts while using official 210. My SONY hdmi capable XA5400es now has dropout issues. It worked fine with 208. What gives? Anyone?



Give Anthem tech support a call. It's possibly the audio muting changes they made in "test" firmware V2.10c may also help with your problem.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, agreed, the new AppleTV is working quite nicely via HDMI to the D2V. I retired my old AppleTV, sad but true - the new one barely gets warm but now I need to find a new way to fry eggs in the morning. I hear there are these things called "frying pans"??? Sounds like some new-fangled tech gadget. I'll wait til the technology matures
> 
> 
> I am loving the faster GUI response, the streaming Netflix is WAY better than Tivo or XBox implementation, and the killer app is the new free Remote app from Apple for the iPad...controls the AppleTV perfectly! They also make one for the phone/touch, but you gotta see how nice the iPad version is! Uses the full screen real estate, high resolution screen. We got rid of the sleek little apple remote, we never find ourselves using it...the iPad stays in the living room, and we just use that.
> 
> 
> BTW, another reason it stays in the living room is the WONDERFUL new PS Audio app for my PWD DAC/Network Bridge, but I digress! Finally able to stream 24bit/192KHz FLAC and WAV files from my NAS thru the excellent DAC of the PS Audio PWD and then into the D2V for ARC to do its thing. Despite the multiple D/A (from the PWD), then A/D/A conversion steps (from the D2V with AnalogDSP active), the sound quality is absolutely stunning! All controlled by the iPad app remote that PS Audio makes now. I sit back in the recliner, dial up the Eagles "When Hell Freezes Over" on the iPad app, and bam, 24bit/192 FLAC source sounding amazing thanks to ARC!
> 
> 
> I am finding myself ripping all my old DVD-Audio discs, getting the 24bit/96KHz or 24/192 "Advanced resolution" out of them, and streaming it over thru the PWD along with all the old FLAC files from my low rez CD material. Good stuff. I've been on an absolute buying spree on ebay to grab old used DVD-Audio discs, just to get more high rez material! There's also so many high rez audio web sites now, no need to use "old-fashioned" DVD-Audio's even, places like HDtracks.com, B&W Society of Sound, iTrax and others.
> 
> 
> For the musically obsessed among us, these are beautiful times!
> 
> 
> Cheers guys, hope everyone is well.
> 
> Brian



If you think that remote for the iPad is good you need to check out Irule for the iPad. I control my d2v with it.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call. It's possibly the audio muting changes they made in "test" firmware V2.10c may also help with your problem.
> 
> --Bob



I thought the muting problem was isolated to the analog signal.


----------



## yacht422

walt here, with a arc V3 issue.(D2 !.33)

down loaded two weeks ago - performed two measurements, all well.

today, to do a third measurement, and the wheels fell off. cannot go beyond three complete sweeps(l:C:R)

error 0X03 "cannot complete" measurement. i 'v e uninstalled, reinstalled, moved the mike to new positions, same o same o.

there were time when it would not even start. rebooting would fix that, but then , again, only three(sometimes two ) sweeps, and the 0X03 response.

any ideas?

thx

walt


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> walt here, with a arc V3 issue.(D2 !.33)
> 
> down loaded two weeks ago - performed two measurements, all well.
> 
> today, to do a third measurement, and the wheels fell off. cannot go beyond three complete sweeps(l:C:R)
> 
> error 0X03 "cannot complete" measurement. i 'v e uninstalled, reinstalled, moved the mike to new positions, same o same o.
> 
> there were time when it would not even start. rebooting would fix that, but then , again, only three(sometimes two ) sweeps, and the 0X03 response.
> 
> any ideas?
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



Have you rebooted the computer? I've had arc misbehave and this usually cures it.

John


----------



## yacht422

jayray - rebooted three times - as noted, also uninstalled and re -in - - - to no avail.

thx

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/19345639
> 
> 
> walt here, with a arc V3 issue.(D2 !.33)
> 
> down loaded two weeks ago - performed two measurements, all well.
> 
> today, to do a third measurement, and the wheels fell off. cannot go beyond three complete sweeps(l:C:R)
> 
> error 0X03 "cannot complete" measurement. i 'v e uninstalled, reinstalled, moved the mike to new positions, same o same o.
> 
> there were time when it would not even start. rebooting would fix that, but then , again, only three(sometimes two ) sweeps, and the 0X03 response.
> 
> any ideas?
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



Make sure the amp is turning on for your Surrounds, and that they are set as present in Setup > Speaker Configuration. As I recall ARC uses the FM/AM tuner Source when doing Measurements, so if you have Triggers configured, check how they are set when that Source is selected.


If you use the Serial port for remote control, remember to reset the RS-232 settings in Setup back to factory defaults before using the Anthem applications (such as ARC). See the picture in the Manual.


Use the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration to verify that you can get audio on your Right Surround speaker (which would be the next one in ARC's cycle). Perhaps it has come unplugged.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Hmm I'm currently using a Atom laptop I purchased it to specifically use it for just updating and performing Calibrations on HT equipment and surf the net wirelessly, I'm only running XP (SP3) and I've had 2 blue screen of death when I've used ARC 3.0 and it always happened on the Updating Parameters part. At one point I had to perform a system restore and that fixed my problems. It's locked up once since then then. I rechecked my comport settings and they had changed back to default eg. Bitrate 1 instead of 2 etc. Might be worth checking that part as well. I know it's frustrating mate been through this with my NAD T-175 and Audyssey Pro, but I must say ARC is just so much easier to work with imo. Hope you sort out the problem.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/19345133
> 
> 
> If you think that remote for the iPad is good you need to check out Irule for the iPad. I control my d2v with it.



Don - thanks - you just gave me a new project - iRule looks great - how do you send commands to the D2? IR, relay or serial?


----------



## dschamis

I just upgraded the firmware on my D2 to 1.47f - the upgrade went fine but now I am getting "sparklies" on the screen - they are most visible when a dark or black image is on the screen - any good ideas? Needless to say, I'm stressed!


----------



## TKO1

Everyone,


with the ARC package is everything included? I am in the process of considering buying one of the MRX AVRs and was wondering if I have to purchase an RS-232 DB9F straight through cable etc. and wanted to make sure I had the right length etc. E.g. if I put a laptop next to the AVR and have the microphone 12 feet away do I need to have a 12 foot RS-232 cable or is the USB cable 12 feet etc. or vice versa.


Any information greatly appreciated.


Thanks in advance. Cheers.


Tony


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Everyone,
> 
> 
> with the ARC package is everything included? I am in the process of considering buying one of the MRX AVRs and was wondering if I have to purchase an RS-232 DB9F straight through cable etc. and wanted to make sure I had the right length etc. E.g. if I put a laptop next to the AVR and have the microphone 12 feet away do I need to have a 12 foot RS-232 cable or is the USB cable 12 feet etc. or vice versa.
> 
> 
> Any information greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance. Cheers.
> 
> 
> Tony



A serial cable is included as with the Anthem pre/pros. You still need to buy a USB / Serial adapter to hookup from your computer to the provided cable.

John


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19346112
> 
> 
> Make sure the amp is turning on for your Surrounds, and that they are set as present in Setup > Speaker Configuration. As I recall ARC uses the FM/AM tuner Source when doing Measurements, so if you have Triggers configured, check how they are set when that Source is selected.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> there are no triggers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you use the Serial port for remote control, remember to reset the RS-232 settings in Setup back to factory defaults before using the Anthem applications (such as ARC). See the picture in the Manual.
> 
> 
> Use the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration to verify that you can get audio on your Right Surround speaker (which would be the next one in ARC's cycle). Perhaps it has come unplugged.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Prior to the measurement ,I reset all speakers to "0",save the LF [which for the _test tone_ is set to +8], all per your set up recommendation.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...

The mystery is, all was working wonderfully well for the two measurements last week, but, yesterday, it broke.

Repeating myself, i can complete a full sweep of the LF, CTR, RF, and the surrounds, all at position #1. Same for positions #2 & 3. But there is no position #4 OR #5, even if i move the mic back to position #1 as a mic verification.

walt


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/19347643
> 
> 
> Don - thanks - you just gave me a new project - iRule looks great - how do you send commands to the D2? IR, relay or serial?



thats a good question, I would like to look into this further as well....


----------



## dschamis

OK - another weird thing has popped up with D2 1.47f (I upgraded from 1.33 today).


I have an Oppo 980H for playing DVDs and SACDs. When I use it to play the SACDs the projector is powered off and the sound is transferred via HDMI.


Everything works great when watching DVDs on the Oppo. But, when I listen to a SACD with the projector powered off, the sound cuts off. With the projector powered on, SACDs play fine. Obviously this is somehow linked to the HDMI to the projector.


Any ideas? I'm hoping there is some new setting in 1.47f that tells the D2 that the projector is supposed to be powered off.


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19348232
> 
> 
> A serial cable is included as with the Anthem pre/pros. You still need to buy a USB / Serial adapter to hookup from your computer to the provided cable.
> 
> John



Thanks John.


Cheers.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Don - thanks - you just gave me a new project - iRule looks great - how do you send commands to the D2? IR, relay or serial?



I'm using the serial port much more flexibility. Also Irule is coming out with 2 way feedback which only the rs232 connection can take advantage.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/19348671
> 
> 
> I'm using the serial port much more flexibility. Also Irule is coming out with 2 way feedback which only the rs232 connection can take advantage.



Is there a computer somewhere in the mix here...?

What are you running the RS-232 from to connect to the D2v....?


****Edit****

Found the thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1124844 

Looks like they use products from Global Cache to convert from IP to RS-232 or IR protocol


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using the serial port much more flexibility. Also Irule is coming out with 2 way feedback which only the rs232 connection can take advantage.



So which gateway are you using? Thanks again.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> So which gateway are you using? Thanks again.



I'm using the itach gateway to the rs232.


----------



## TKO1

Everyone,


am looking at picking up a used laptop to connect to the MRX receiver and wanted to ensure that I bought something that would be sufficient in terms of operating system (will be a Windows laptop) and CPU/memory.


Can anyone let me know what would be a usable laptop system configuration? It will probably only be used to work with ARC and connect to the internet as necessary (either via Ethernet or wireless).


Any recommendations greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


Cheers.


Tony


----------



## dlynch34

I was hoping the new test firmware would solve my htpc music server but alas it does not.


----------



## gblack

Have had my D2 (running 1.33) for several years with no problem. Nothing was changed in any of my setup but today for whatever reason I've lost HDCP on HDMI1. That is my DVR refuses to allow picture content through HDMI1 (I do get an on-screen picture from the DVR saying that the monitor is not HDCP compliant and it is not showing any picture - just that message). Hooking the DVR up to another input (HDMI2 for example) solves this problem and things behave normally. When I connect my blu-ray player to HDMI1 I also get no picture.


Has anyone suffered a sudden HDCP failure on just one of the HDMI inputs and have any suggestions to correct? I've tried powering off and on all the devices. I have unplugged the D2, loaded factory default settings, etc. Nothing has correct. Should I try re-loading the firmware?


Thanks,


- Gary


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/19350811
> 
> 
> Have had my D2 (running 1.33) for several years with no problem. Nothing was changed in any of my setup but today for whatever reason I've lost HDCP on HDMI1. That is my DVR refuses to allow picture content through HDMI1 (I do get an on-screen picture from the DVR saying that the monitor is not HDCP compliant and it is not showing any picture - just that message). Hooking the DVR up to another input (HDMI2 for example) solves this problem and things behave normally. When I connect my blu-ray player to HDMI1 I also get no picture.
> 
> 
> Has anyone suffered a sudden HDCP failure on just one of the HDMI inputs and have any suggestions to correct? I've tried powering off and on all the devices. I have unplugged the D2, loaded factory default settings, etc. Nothing has correct. Should I try re-loading the firmware?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> - Gary



If it is only your DVR - look at the DVR.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19351683
> 
> 
> If it is only your DVR - look at the DVR.



It's definitely not the DVR. It works fine directly to the TV and fine through a different HDMI input on the D2. Same thing with my Blu-Ray player. No picture on HDMI1 but fine on other inputs.


There is a picture coming from the PVR on the HDMI 1 input. I can see the guide but not watch any shows. All I get is an error message on the TV that is served by the DVR - saying I don't have an HDCP compatible display and the HDMI output is blocked.


The problem just began on its own and is only affecting HDMI1 input. And seems isolated to just HDCP processing on that input. All other HDMI inputs are fine.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/19351957
> 
> 
> It's definitely not the DVR. It works fine directly to the TV and fine through a different HDMI input on the D2. Same thing with my Blu-Ray player. No picture on HDMI1 but fine on other inputs.
> 
> 
> There is a picture coming from the PVR on the HDMI 1 input. I can see the guide but not watch any shows. All I get is an error message on the TV that is served by the DVR - saying I don't have an HDCP compatible display and the HDMI output is blocked.
> 
> 
> The problem just began on its own and is only affecting HDMI1 input. And seems isolated to just HDCP processing on that input. All other HDMI inputs are fine.



Maybe Bob will chime in later about HDMI ports can die.


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19340194
> 
> 
> What firmware do you have in the D2v? Press Select once on the Remote to see the firmware version in the display. The latest firmware is V2.10.
> 
> 
> Audio dropouts are almost always the result of problems in the Source device, so also check that you have the latest firmware for your Blu-Ray players.
> 
> 
> That's the easy part. Now, do the dropouts repeat at the same time code when playing a given disc? If you back up and play that portion again do you get the dropout again every time? Or do they happen at unpredictable times and do not repeat if you play that section again?
> 
> 
> Next, how long are the dropouts? Are they quite brief? Or does the audio cut out for several seconds?
> 
> --Bob



I am currently running 2.10, The drop outs are brief, roughly a second or less.


I have yet to back up the disks and see if they are at the same point I will check that this evening. I guess that would nail it to the source as opposed to the processor.


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK - another weird thing has popped up with D2 1.47f (I upgraded from 1.33 today).
> 
> 
> I have an Oppo 980H for playing DVDs and SACDs. When I use it to play the SACDs the projector is powered off and the sound is transferred via HDMI.
> 
> 
> Everything works great when watching DVDs on the Oppo. But, when I listen to a SACD with the projector powered off, the sound cuts off. With the projector powered on, SACDs play fine. Obviously this is somehow linked to the HDMI to the projector.
> 
> 
> Any ideas? I'm hoping there is some new setting in 1.47f that tells the D2 that the projector is supposed to be powered off.



Any ideas guys? I'm worried that a lack of responses here means that no one has ever seen this problem before.


David


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/19352603
> 
> 
> Any ideas guys? I'm worried that a lack of responses here means that no one has ever seen this problem before.
> 
> 
> David



Because of HDCP I too have to have the monitor on when playing any type of CD's on the dvd play. This included version 1.33. There was an older version of firmware that allowed a "repeater" function that allowed the monitor to be powered off but Anthem had to remove this "feature".


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Because of HDCP I too have to have the monitor on when playing any type of CD's on the dvd play. This included version 1.33. There was an older version of firmware that allowed a "repeater" function that allowed the monitor to be powered off but Anthem had to remove this "feature".



I definitely did not have to do this with 1.33 - this would be a real bummer if I had to do this all the time with the Oppo.


----------



## barrygordon

I own an Anthem 50v and am quite satisfied except for a few minor quirks. This might be OT but I see no general Anthem 50v thread so If I need to post somewhere else please let me know.


Most of my equipment (XBMC, Vudu, Dune Player, PC Display) is connected over HDMI at 1080p. The DVR's (Set top boxes are connected via Component and optical)


1) Occasionally, maybe once a week, when the system comes on (the DVR's are always on and not in standby) the audio is very very low. The Anthem is not muted, and the volume control has no effect. Cycling to standby and then back to full on always cures the problem.


2) Occasionally, perhaps twice a week, when the system comes on there is no picture from the DVR. The DVR is the initial startup device in the theater. Cycling to an HDMI input and back again (the DVR is component) usually solves the problem


Has anyone else seen anything like this? It is very intermitent and Anthem can not find it.


Any help advice appreciated.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/19350811
> 
> 
> Have had my D2 (running 1.33) for several years with no problem. Nothing was changed in any of my setup but today for whatever reason I've lost HDCP on HDMI1. That is my DVR refuses to allow picture content through HDMI1 (I do get an on-screen picture from the DVR saying that the monitor is not HDCP compliant and it is not showing any picture - just that message). Hooking the DVR up to another input (HDMI2 for example) solves this problem and things behave normally. When I connect my blu-ray player to HDMI1 I also get no picture.
> 
> 
> Has anyone suffered a sudden HDCP failure on just one of the HDMI inputs and have any suggestions to correct? I've tried powering off and on all the devices. I have unplugged the D2, loaded factory default settings, etc. Nothing has correct. Should I try re-loading the firmware?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> - Gary




I had this happen to my d2 a while back. One HDMI port went out. They had to replace the board.


-bob


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/19350306
> 
> 
> Everyone,
> 
> 
> am looking at picking up a used laptop to connect to the MRX receiver and wanted to ensure that I bought something that would be sufficient in terms of operating system (will be a Windows laptop) and CPU/memory.
> 
> 
> Can anyone let me know what would be a usable laptop system configuration? It will probably only be used to work with ARC and connect to the internet as necessary (either via Ethernet or wireless).
> 
> 
> Any recommendations greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> Tony



Anyone? Thanks again.


Cheers.


Tony


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/19352987
> 
> 
> Anyone? Thanks again.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> Tony



There aren't many restrictions. Windows XP or better and Apples (hosting windows) all work.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The "test" ARC V3.0.1 install kit has been updated this afternoon on Anthem's password protected download page.


The only change is a newer version of the manual for the upcoming MRX 300/500/700 Receiver products. The ARC stuff itself, and the included Anthem utilities, are unchanged from the original appearance of V3.0.1 on there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/19352876
> 
> 
> I own an Anthem 50v and am quite satisfied except for a few minor quirks. This might be OT but I see no general Anthem 50v thread so If I need to post somewhere else please let me know.
> 
> 
> Most of my equipment (XBMC, Vudu, Dune Player, PC Display) is connected over HDMI at 1080p. The DVR's (Set top boxes are connected via Component and optical)
> 
> 
> 1) Occasionally, maybe once a week, when the system comes on (the DVR's are always on and not in standby) the audio is very very low. The Anthem is not muted, and the volume control has no effect. Cycling to standby and then back to full on always cures the problem.
> 
> 
> 2) Occasionally, perhaps twice a week, when the system comes on there is no picture from the DVR. The DVR is the initial startup device in the theater. Cycling to an HDMI input and back again (the DVR is component) usually solves the problem
> 
> 
> Has anyone else seen anything like this? It is very intermitent and Anthem can not find it.
> 
> 
> Any help advice appreciated.



Barry, you are posting in the right thread.


What version of the firmware do you have in your AVM 50v? Press Select once on the remote to see the version number in the front panel display. The latest "official" firmware version is V2.10. That's available from Anthem's public download page for AVM 50v software:

http://anthemav.com/downloads/anthem...m-50v/software 


There is also a Beta or "test" version V2.10c on Anthem's password protected download page.


If you are running older firmware, the first step would be to update your firmware.


Among other things, V2.10 includes "Dolby Volume". Unfortunately it is turned ON by default for every Source. So if you do update, go into Setup > Source Setup for each Source and turn Dolby Volume OFF for now. After you are sure things are working well, you can go back in and play with it if you want. (One of the changes in the V2.10c "test" firmware is that Dolby Volume is OFF by factory default.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19352639
> 
> 
> Because of HDCP I too have to have the monitor on when playing any type of CD's on the dvd play. This included version 1.33. There was an older version of firmware that allowed a "repeater" function that allowed the monitor to be powered off but Anthem had to remove this "feature".



The D2 and AVM 50 firmware have a bug such that to play HDMI sourced audio with your HDMI display turned off you must turn off the display BEFORE selecting the music source for input.


This is fixed in the D2v and AVM 50v firmware.


If you forget, i.e., if your turn off the display after selecting the music source, you can cure the loss of audio by simply switching to another input source and back again.


For folks with programmable remotes, set your remote to power off the display BEFORE it tells the D2 to change to the music source.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/19351957
> 
> 
> It's definitely not the DVR. It works fine directly to the TV and fine through a different HDMI input on the D2. Same thing with my Blu-Ray player. No picture on HDMI1 but fine on other inputs.
> 
> 
> There is a picture coming from the PVR on the HDMI 1 input. I can see the guide but not watch any shows. All I get is an error message on the TV that is served by the DVR - saying I don't have an HDCP compatible display and the HDMI output is blocked.
> 
> 
> The problem just began on its own and is only affecting HDMI1 input. And seems isolated to just HDCP processing on that input. All other HDMI inputs are fine.



Get a flashlight and check the HDMI 1 input (and the plug) for signs of pin damage. Make sure the plug is fully inserted straight into the socket and is not tugged in any direction by, say, the weight of the cable. Try the "wiggle" test: While the video is failing, take hold of the cable about an inch from the plug and gently push it straight into the socket while giving a gentle wiggle. If that gets your video back, then you likely need to replace the cable as it is not making good electrical contact in that specific socket (even though it might work in the other socket). Supporting the weight of the cable may also suffice.


In the D2, HDMI inputs 1 and 2 share one processing chip, and 3 and 4 share another. So if 1 fails and 2 is working, that limits the problem to the socket or the stuff leading into that socket (e.g., the cable or source).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/19350306
> 
> 
> Everyone,
> 
> 
> am looking at picking up a used laptop to connect to the MRX receiver and wanted to ensure that I bought something that would be sufficient in terms of operating system (will be a Windows laptop) and CPU/memory.
> 
> 
> Can anyone let me know what would be a usable laptop system configuration? It will probably only be used to work with ARC and connect to the internet as necessary (either via Ethernet or wireless).
> 
> 
> Any recommendations greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> Tony



It needs to run Windows XP or later. It needs a USB socket to connect the ARC mic. If it doesn't have a serial port for connecting to the Anthem, then commonly folks use a Keyspan USA-19HS USB to serial adapter in a 2nd USB socket, meaning you need 2 USB sockets. The ability to use a wireless mouse can be helpful if you need to stand away from the PC during ARC Measurements.


There are no special requirements for memory or processor speed. I.e., if it is useful at all running XP or later then it should be fine with the Anthem stuff.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/19348309
> 
> The mystery is, all was working wonderfully well for the two measurements last week, but, yesterday, it broke.
> 
> Repeating myself, i can complete a full sweep of the LF, CTR, RF, and the surrounds, all at position #1. Same for positions #2 & 3. But there is no position #4 OR #5, even if i move the mic back to position #1 as a mic verification.
> 
> walt



Give Anthem tech support a call. I can't think of any good reason why the speakers would play for 3 rounds and stop playing on the 4th round.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/19347822
> 
> 
> I just upgraded the firmware on my D2 to 1.47f - the upgrade went fine but now I am getting "sparklies" on the screen - they are most visible when a dark or black image is on the screen - any good ideas? Needless to say, I'm stressed!



Sparklies indicate bit dropouts in the digital video signal and are almost always an indication of cable problems.


First try to isolate whether the problem is on the Source or Display side. View the internally generated video in the D2 -- E.g, Video Source Adjust > Patterns -- and look in the black areas for signs of sparklies. If so, then the problem is on the display cable side. If not then the problem is on the Source side.


To confirm, first change the output to your display to 1080i or even 480p. If the sparklies go away then your display cable is not carrying the bandwidth. If not, then change the output from your source to the D2 to be only 1080i or even 480p. If THAT makes the sparklies go away then your input cable is not carrying the bandwidth.


Often, a cable that used to work can start failing simply because it has shifted slightly in the socket and is no longer making good contact. Make sure the plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets (both ends of both cables) and not being tugged in any direction by, say, the weight of the cable. The plugs are only friction fit, and it only takes a slight shift to make the connection marginal.

--Bob


----------



## barrygordon

Bob, Thanks I am running 2.08. Would you Recommend 2.10 Official or 2.10c


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/19354025
> 
> 
> Bob, Thanks I am running 2.08. Would you Recommend 2.10 Official or 2.10c



It's really up to your tolerance level for risk. V2.10 is the one manufacturing is putting in new machines. I'm using V2.10c and having no problems with it, but "test" software may have some gotchas that don't get discovered until more people use it.

--Bob


----------



## barrygordon

Since my 50v is always connected to the theaters control PC over RS232 changing firmware is no hassle. I will go with 2.10c and see how it works for me.


Will settings be kept or should I run the settings editor? I guess I can just run the settings editor Just in Case.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19353656
> 
> 
> Get a flashlight and check the HDMI 1 input (and the plug) for signs of pin damage. Make sure the plug is fully inserted straight into the socket and is not tugged in any direction by, say, the weight of the cable. Try the "wiggle" test: While the video is failing, take hold of the cable about an inch from the plug and gently push it straight into the socket while giving a gentle wiggle. If that gets your video back, then you likely need to replace the cable as it is not making good electrical contact in that specific socket (even though it might work in the other socket). Supporting the weight of the cable may also suffice.
> 
> 
> In the D2, HDMI inputs 1 and 2 share one processing chip, and 3 and 4 share another. So if 1 fails and 2 is working, that limits the problem to the socket or the stuff leading into that socket (e.g., the cable or source).
> 
> --Bob



I'll try that tonight Bob. Interestingly it (the DVR with the same cable) works fine in HDMI2 but not HDMI1. So if HDCP is handled by the same circuit for both then my problem is most likely the socket or cable. Nothing was moved and I am very carefully in my wiring that there is no strain on the cables so it's a mystery how the plug just got damaged by itself. I don't know if dust can effect this but we are doing work (renos) and there is more dust in the air than normal. I'll take an air can to the jack and cable tonight as well and give that a try. Will report back later what I find.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/19354535
> 
> 
> Since my 50v is always connected to the theaters control PC over RS232 changing firmware is no hassle. I will go with 2.10c and see how it works for me.
> 
> 
> Will settings be kept or should I run the settings editor? I guess I can just run the settings editor Just in Case.



Before your do the Install go into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults -- this is an essential step. Among other things it will reset the RS-232 settings in the AVM 50v so that the firmware install will work. Note: Your serial based remote may not function at this point.


Make sure you have no powered HDMI connections (Source or Display) during the install. Since HDMI plugs are delicate, and since many modern HDMI devices keep their HDMI sockets powered even when the device is "off", I recommend you remove wall power from everything except the Anthem and your computer rather than pulling the HDMI plugs.


After the Install, go back into the Setup (using the front panel display, via the front panel buttons or using the normal remote control) and Reload Saved User Settings.


You'll be back in business and your serial remote control will work normally again as well.


One thing to know is that Anthem has not yet released a new version of Settings Editor that works with V2.10 or later due to the Dolby Volume additions in the Setup menu. You can use the Settings Backup utility to save and restore Setup menu settings on your PC, and you can use Live Video Settings Editor to save and restore Video Source Adjust menu settings. However, for the purposes of the install, just doing Save User Settings within the AVM 50v and reloading from that afterwards, is the simplest way to go.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/19354537
> 
> 
> I'll try that tonight Bob. Interestingly it (the DVR with the same cable) works fine in HDMI2 but not HDMI1. So if HDCP is handled by the same circuit for both then my problem is most likely the socket or cable. Nothing was moved and I am very carefully in my wiring that there is no strain on the cables so it's a mystery how the plug just got damaged by itself. I don't know if dust can effect this but we are doing work (renos) and there is more dust in the air than normal. I'll take an air can to the jack and cable tonight as well and give that a try. Will report back later what I find.



The air can is a good idea. It may simply be a variation in the mechanical tolerance in the socket that finally bit you. Sometimes a new cable helps in that case just because the plug tolerances also vary. Or it may be a loose solder joint inside the unit for that socket. If the latter, then you'd need to get the video board serviced or swapped out.


Anthem tech support would likely ask you to re-install the firmware first, "just in case", although I don't know of any cases of corrupted firmware that would affect just 1 of these 2 sockets.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK - another weird thing has popped up with D2 1.47f (I upgraded from 1.33 today).
> 
> 
> I have an Oppo 980H for playing DVDs and SACDs. When I use it to play the SACDs the projector is powered off and the sound is transferred via HDMI.
> 
> 
> Everything works great when watching DVDs on the Oppo. But, when I listen to a SACD with the projector powered off, the sound cuts off. With the projector powered on, SACDs play fine. Obviously this is somehow linked to the HDMI to the projector.
> 
> 
> Any ideas? I'm hoping there is some new setting in 1.47f that tells the D2 that the projector is supposed to be powered off.



Bob - good to have you back - any thoughts on this one?


----------



## barrygordon

Bob, Thanks with the help on the upgrade. I upgraded my 50v to 2.10c with no issue following your directions. Took almost an hour, but unlike many other companies Anthem did a great job with good status feedback as the upgrade was progessing.


I did note that the volume is now about 8-10 DB louder. I assume that is because Dolby volume was on and set to Cinema. I thought that in 2.10c the default was Off for dolby volume. No big deal.


I am not sure which way the Dolby level adjustment goes. I assume that low means least compression and High means most compression. Is that correct. With compression off and mid to On the dolby volume system acts as a loudness contour. Is that correct?


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK - another weird thing has popped up with D2 1.47f (I upgraded from 1.33 today).
> 
> 
> I have an Oppo 980H for playing DVDs and SACDs. When I use it to play the SACDs the projector is powered off and the sound is transferred via HDMI.
> 
> 
> Everything works great when watching DVDs on the Oppo. But, when I listen to a SACD with the projector powered off, the sound cuts off. With the projector powered on, SACDs play fine. Obviously this is somehow linked to the HDMI to the projector.
> 
> 
> Any ideas? I'm hoping there is some new setting in 1.47f that tells the D2 that the projector is supposed to be powered off.



As a follow-up to this, and maybe a way to get around the issue, can the Oppo pass 24/96 PCM via toslink or does it need to go via HDMI?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/19358627
> 
> 
> Bob - good to have you back - any thoughts on this one?



As I posted above, this should work on your D2 so long as the projector is powered OFF *BEFORE* you select the HDMI from the SACD player for input. If you forget and lose audio by turning it off AFTER selecting that input, it should suffice to briefly switch to a different input and back.


If you are using a programmable remote, set it to power off the display BEFORE it tells the D2 to switch to the SACD HDMI input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/19358682
> 
> 
> Bob, Thanks with the help on the upgrade. I upgraded my 50v to 2.10c with no issue following your directions. Took almost an hour, but unlike many other companies Anthem did a great job with good status feedback as the upgrade was progessing.
> 
> 
> I did note that the volume is now about 8-10 DB louder. I assume that is because Dolby volume was on and set to Cinema. I thought that in 2.10c the default was Off for dolby volume. No big deal.
> 
> 
> I am not sure which way the Dolby level adjustment goes. I assume that low means least compression and High means most compression. Is that correct. With compression off and mid to On the dolby volume system acts as a loudness contour. Is that correct?



We are still trying to figure out how Dolby Volume works.


Since this is the first time you've installed firmware with Dolby Volume, the install of V2.10c *SHOULD HAVE* left each Source with Dolby Volume OFF. If that didn't happen, please send an email with that info to Anthem tech support as that is a bug in V2.10c. Be sure to let them know you were coming from firmware V2.08. (Folks who have previously installed a firmware version with Dolby Volume will retain whatever settings they made prior to installing V2.10c, since they are part of the Saved User Settings you reload after the firmware install.)


Dolby Volume Cinema does raise the volume level about 10dB over Dolby Volume ON. Apparently Dolby is trying to switch between home theater calibration levels of 75dB and movie theater calibration levels of 85dB.


The Dolby Calibration level in Setup > Level Settings has to do with how closely Dolby Volume ON and OFF match in volume. However it apparently ALSO has some as yet unexplained side effects regarding bass boost. If you've set things for an ARC solution at 75dB, then a Dolby Calibration level of 0dB appears to be "correct".


Dolby Half Mode (recommended setting ON) has to do with Dolby Volume getting out of the way and not doing anything if the combination of content volume and main volume knob setting is high enough that altering the frequency contour should no longer be necessary.


Dolby Volume Leveling has to do with how aggressively it tries to match volume levels as the content changes. Low is minimal adjustment, high is maximal adjustment. You can turn off Leveling and just get Dolby Volume's volume-based frequency contour adjustment, or you can turn both of them off (Dolby Volume = OFF), but you can't get *JUST* Leveling. Note that level adjustment may take a couple seconds to fully kick in as content volume goes up and down, depending on the nature of the content. If Leveling is set too high you will hear an annoying crescendo in voices whenever loud action scenes are followed by quiet, dialog-only scenes


Dolby Volume ON/OFF/Cinema for the current Source can be viewed by pressing "0" once, and then altered by using Up or Down Arrow. Any changes made this way are permanent -- i.e., they alter the setting in Setup > Source Setup for that Source.


So far I've found no good use for Dolby Volume Cinema. Dolby Volume ON with Leveling 5 seems to be OK for TV broadcasts vs. commercials.


So far the apparent usage is that you should leave Dolby Volume OFF and simply lower volume if you want things to play softer. However, if that causes you to miss dialog or bass effects then you can also turn Dolby Volume ON to get some of that back. Frankly I'm not impressed with it.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19353702
> 
> 
> Give Anthem tech support a call. I can't think of any good reason why the speakers would play for 3 rounds and stop playing on the 4th round.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, here is the answer to my long suffering measurement problem!

Long story short, I downloaded the program "UNIBLUE DRIVER SCANNER" _after_ the first of the valid measurements. Today, I deleted it, and the measurements went off w/o a hitch. The entire problem was that one program.

I am running Windows XP on a leveno laptop.

Anyone else running this program?

w/o problems?

If I am the only one to have had difficulties, then not to worry - however, if I am the only poster here who has used the program AT ALL, then there may be cause for an alert to go out.

Eh?

Walt


----------



## yacht422

Walt here with the latest results..

two questions: 1) why only 65db as a power line (very careful in setting it up), and 2: why the sharp drop off at 10 khz? My speakers are 30 khx capable: is this an ARC limitation?

walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/19359771
> 
> 
> Walt here with the latest results..
> 
> two questions: 1) why only 65db as a power line (very careful in setting it up), and 2: why the sharp drop off at 10 khz? My speakers are 30 khx capable: is this an ARC limitation?
> 
> walt



If you went through the adjustment of Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level properly I don't have an answer on your 65dB solution. We've had a few people report this. The first question is whether it is "real" -- i.e., do you find you need to turn main volume up 10dB higher for content you are familiar with. If not, then it is just a charting error (which still doesn't explain it, but should make you feel better.)


If you DIDN'T redo the Test Level stuff from scratch then the odds are you still have the extra 6dB reduction dialed into Test Level that was needed due to the bug in the earlier ARC software. And thus your new solution is coming in lower than it should be now that that bug is fixed.


Are you using XLR or RCA cabling to your amps?


---------------------------------------


The small roll off in treble in your fronts could be mic sensitivity. I wouldn't worry about it. The larger roll off in your surrounds looks like it may be real in comparison, so for those you might want to recheck your speaker pointing, particularly vertical pointing if they are not mounted at seated ear height.


Note that you don't have ARC doing any correction up there, so if it is just mic sensitivity it isn't causing ARC to screw up anything up there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/19359744
> 
> 
> Bob, here is the answer to my long suffering measurement problem!
> 
> Long story short, I downloaded the program "UNIBLUE DRIVER SCANNER" _after_ the first of the valid measurements. Today, I deleted it, and the measurements went off w/o a hitch. The entire problem was that one program.
> 
> I am running Windows XP on a leveno laptop.
> 
> Anyone else running this program?
> 
> w/o problems?
> 
> If I am the only one to have had difficulties, then not to worry - however, if I am the only poster here who has used the program AT ALL, then there may be cause for an alert to go out.
> 
> Eh?
> 
> Walt



Windows works (or fails to work) in mysterious ways. The problem could be in the manufacturer modified version of XP that came with your laptop for example.


In addition to the serial connection, ARC depends on Windows drivers that handle audio capture from the USB mic. Perhaps Uniblue screwed that up, possibly by installing an older version of DLL.

--Bob


----------



## xMEATx

Can I use Windows 7 to do updates and measure with arc with a d2?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can I use Windows 7 to do updates and measure with arc with a d2?



Yes, I've had no issues doing that. Just make sure your drivers for any USB/serial connectors is up to date.

John


----------



## xMEATx

Thanks John for the quick reply.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19360181
> 
> 
> Can I use Windows 7 to do updates and measure with arc with a d2?



ARC V2.4 or later supports Windows 7. The current ARC version is V3.0.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

John, 64bit win 7"?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19360209
> 
> 
> Yes, I've had no issues doing that. Just make sure your drivers for any USB/serial connectors is up to date.
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> John, 64bit win 7"?



Yes, using my Dell Laptop. Keyspan drivers were their latest.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There have been a few reports here of audio dropouts using firmware V2.10.


If anybody has a REPEATABLE case, please post the details and/or email Anthem tech support.


For a disc, in addition to the disc title and time code of the repeatable audio dropout, please post the bar code number from the disc package as many movies are issued in different versions at different times. Also specify your player and whether you are using HDMI LPCM or HDMI Bitstream for the audio input. And specify which audio track you have selected on the disc if it gives you a choice.


I've just reported a repeatable case using HDMI LPCM from "DVE HD Basics", Blu-Ray so I know they are looking into this.


Non-repeatable cases are important of course but don't really help them much in trying to find the cause.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422

[


> Quote:
> QUOTE=Bob Pariseau;19359828]If you went through the adjustment of Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level properly I don't have an answer on your 65dB solution.



[yes - EVEN HAD THE WIFE ASSISTING







] We've had a few people report this.


> Quote:
> The first question is whether it is "real" -- i.e., do you find you need to turn main volume up 10dB higher for content you are familiar with.



[YES - NEEDS TO BE TURNED UP] If not, then it is just a charting error (which still doesn't explain it, but should make you feel better.)


If you DIDN'T redo the Test Level stuff from scratch then the odds are you still have the extra 6dB reduction dialed into Test Level that was needed due to the bug in the earlier ARC software. And thus your new solution is coming in lower than it should be now that that bug is fixed.[AHA, BUT IS IT REALLY?







]



> Quote:
> Are you using XLR or RCA cabling to your amps?



[XLR] HOWEVER, THIS HAS ALWAYS BEEN THE SETUP - NOW WITH V3, WE ARE 10 db LOW

---------------------------------------


The small roll off in treble in your fronts could be mic sensitivity. I wouldn't worry about it. The larger roll off in your surrounds looks like it may be real in comparison, so for those you might want to recheck your speaker pointing, particularly vertical pointing


> Quote:
> if they are not mounted at seated ear height.


[SURROUNDS ARE MOUNTED PROX FIVE FEET FROM FLOOR, AND ARE NOT POINTED DOWN - THEY ARE A FIVE CONE BOX WITH TWEETERS AND MIDS POINTED FORE AND AFT, WITH A WOOFER AIMED DIRECTLY ACROSS THE ROOM - TOWARDS THE LISTENERS]


> Quote:
> Note that you don't have ARC doing any correction up there, so if it is just mic sensitivity it isn't causing ARC to screw up anything up there.


SHOULD I MOVE THE CORRECTION UP TO 20KHZ? AND WHAT'S WITH THE _FUNNY_ BASS LINE?

--Bob[/quote]

WHAT WOULD WE EVER DO W/O YOU?

THX FOR THE INSIGHTS

WALT


----------



## tranle

I have found this in the above $20k forum. For people that want to push arc to correct to 20kHz.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1250543 

For me I don't get anything above 16kz.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The problem is, even though the human ear usually can't distinguish primary tones that high, you often CAN distinguish the difference in transients if those higher frequencies are missing or over-emphasized. Much like the way you can distinguish a sine wave from a sawtooth wave.


On the other hand, folks that can correctly distinguish between 96KHz and 192KHz recordings in a double blind test are freaky. By the Nyquist theorem, that says they are distinguishing between whether or not frequencies above 48KHz are present.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/19361232
> 
> 
> [ [yes - EVEN HAD THE WIFE ASSISTING
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ] We've had a few people report this. [YES - NEEDS TO BE TURNED UP] If not, then it is just a charting error (which still doesn't explain it, but should make you feel better.)
> 
> 
> If you DIDN'T redo the Test Level stuff from scratch then the odds are you still have the extra 6dB reduction dialed into Test Level that was needed due to the bug in the earlier ARC software. And thus your new solution is coming in lower than it should be now that that bug is fixed.[AHA, BUT IS IT REALLY?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> [XLR] HOWEVER, THIS HAS ALWAYS BEEN THE SETUP - NOW WITH V3, WE ARE 10 db LOW
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The small roll off in treble in your fronts could be mic sensitivity. I wouldn't worry about it. The larger roll off in your surrounds looks like it may be real in comparison, so for those you might want to recheck your speaker pointing, particularly vertical pointing [SURROUNDS ARE MOUNTED PROX FIVE FEET FROM FLOOR, AND ARE NOT POINTED DOWN - THEY ARE A FIVE CONE BOX WITH TWEETERS AND MIDS POINTED FORE AND AFT, WITH A WOOFER AIMED DIRECTLY ACROSS THE ROOM - TOWARDS THE LISTENERS]
> SHOULD I MOVE THE CORRECTION UP TO 20KHZ? AND WHAT'S WITH THE _FUNNY_ BASS LINE?
> 
> WHAT WOULD WE EVER DO W/O YOU?
> 
> THX FOR THE INSIGHTS
> 
> WALT



There's nothing funny about the bass. That's just noise -- 30dB or more below the solution level.


I don't think you should move the correction up to 20KHz. Perhaps 10 or 15KHz max.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The air can is a good idea. It may simply be a variation in the mechanical tolerance in the socket that finally bit you. Sometimes a new cable helps in that case just because the plug tolerances also vary. Or it may be a loose solder joint inside the unit for that socket. If the latter, then you'd need to get the video board serviced or swapped out.
> 
> 
> Anthem tech support would likely ask you to re-install the firmware first, "just in case", although I don't know of any cases of corrupted firmware that would affect just 1 of these 2 sockets.
> 
> --Bob



Well I tried all the possible device and cable combinations. Reloaded factory default and user settings and also reinstalled the firmware. All to no avail. HDCP processing has failed on HDMI1. Anthem tech support suspects the jack needs to be replaced for about $100 p&l. Not bad considering the cost of these processors. Will need to schedule that repair the next time I have my gear disconnected. Fortunately I live in Toronto near Anthem. For now I can get by with HDMI 2, 3.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19360656
> 
> 
> There have been a few reports here of audio dropouts using firmware V2.10.
> 
> 
> If anybody has a REPEATABLE case, please post the details and/or email Anthem tech support.
> 
> 
> For a disc, in addition to the disc title and time code of the repeatable audio dropout, please post the bar code number from the disc package as many movies are issued in different versions at different times. Also specify your player and whether you are using HDMI LPCM or HDMI Bitstream for the audio input. And specify which audio track you have selected on the disc if it gives you a choice.
> 
> 
> I've just reported a repeatable case using HDMI LPCM from "DVE HD Basics", Blu-Ray so I know they are looking into this.
> 
> 
> Non-repeatable cases are important of course but don't really help them much in trying to find the cause.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I've been experienceing this issue with "Spartacus: Blood And Sand" playing on the Oppo 83. The audio is encoded with Dolby TrueHD which I pass as bitstream to the D2v for decoding. The audio dropouts (repeatable) always happen during the gladiatorial contests in the arena. The video is fine, but I'll experience a 1 or 2 second audio dropout usually when there's a change in camera perspective.


I tried the same scenes with my Sony BDP-S1000ES, but experienced no audio dropout at all. So I am thinking the fault either lies with the Oppo or that maybe the D2v has an issue with the Oppo 83.


On the other hand, it could be the Oppo 83 having an issue with this particular disc (B/C #13132 14209) since I have no problem with my other Dolby TrueHD discs.


Ben


----------



## SimonNo10

Let Oppo know this as they are quick to fix these issues with firmware updates.


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19361594
> 
> 
> There's nothing funny about the bass. That's just noise -- 30dB or more below the solution level.
> 
> 
> I don't think you should move the correction up to 20KHz. Perhaps 10 or 15KHz max.


bob, again, my appreciation.

walt


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan* /forum/post/19352177
> 
> 
> I am currently running 2.10, The drop outs are brief, roughly a second or less.
> 
> 
> I have yet to back up the disks and see if they are at the same point I will check that this evening. I guess that would nail it to the source as opposed to the processor.



OK,


I have gone back on the Blu ray after the drop out. Not repeat in the same exact place, just a dropout a littlie further in a place that played fine before.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I've been experienceing this issue with "Spartacus: Blood And Sand" playing on the Oppo 83. The audio is encoded with Dolby TrueHD which I pass as bitstream to the D2v for decoding. The audio dropouts (repeatable) always happen during the gladiatorial contests in the arena. The video is fine, but I'll experience a 1 or 2 second audio dropout usually when there's a change in camera perspective.
> 
> 
> I tried the same scenes with my Sony BDP-S1000ES, but experienced no audio dropout at all. So I am thinking the fault either lies with the Oppo or that maybe the D2v has an issue with the Oppo 83.
> 
> 
> On the other hand, it could be the Oppo 83 having an issue with this particular disc (B/C #13132 14209) since I have no problem with my other Dolby TrueHD discs.
> 
> 
> Ben



In your case, since you don't get the audio dropouts using HDMI Bitstream from the Sony, the problem is most likely in the Oppo BDP-83.


If you haven't already done so, try using the "Public Beta" firmware for the Oppo, available from their Support page for the 83, as several audio problems like this are fixed in that firmware.

http://www.oppodigital.com/blu-ray-b...3-Support.aspx 



> Quote:
> 1. A small number of Blu-ray discs with Dolby TrueHD audio exhibit a momentary audio drop-out issue if the player is connected to an A/V receiver via HDMI and bitstream is selected as the HDMI Audio format. This version fixes the issue.



If the problem still exists, email the disc title/bar-code and time-code range details to Oppo and they will confirm the problem using other AVRs, and get a fix going.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan* /forum/post/19363518
> 
> 
> OK,
> 
> 
> I have gone back on the Blu ray after the drop out. Not repeat in the same exact place, just a dropout a littlie further in a place that played fine before.



OK, what player are you using? Are you using HDMI LPCM or HDMI Bitstream from it?


What is the disc title and bar code number?


What is the range of time codes that seems to be most likely to exhibit the audio dropout?


And which audio track are you playing from the disc (e.g., 5.1 TrueHD)?

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19363738
> 
> 
> In your case, since you don't get the audio dropouts using HDMI Bitstream from the Sony, the problem is most likely in the Oppo BDP-83.
> 
> 
> If you haven't already done so, try using the "Public Beta" firmware for the Oppo, available from their Support page for the 83, as several audio problems like this are fixed in that firmware.
> 
> http://www.oppodigital.com/blu-ray-b...3-Support.aspx
> 
> 
> If the problem still exists, email the disc title/bar-code and time-code range details to Oppo and they will confirm the problem using other AVRs, and get a fix going.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, Bob, I plan to download the Oppo beta firmware and try it out. Hopefully, this issue will be resolved with it. I did notice earlier that there were a few posters in the Oppo thread who reported this audio dropout. Thanks.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem tech support is in the process of updating it's password protected download page.


Stand by.


CORRECTION: What they've actually done is added an older firmware version for the original AVM 50 -- V1.21d. This may be needed by a customer who attempted to use "test" V1.47f and now needs to roll back first to V1.21d and then to V1.33. There have been a few cases of this since "test" V1.47f first showed up.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anthem tech support is in the process of updating it's password protected download page.
> 
> 
> Stand by.
> 
> 
> CORRECTION: What they've actually done is added an older firmware version for the original AVM 50 -- V1.21d. This may be needed by a customer who attempted to use "test" V1.47f and now needs to roll back first to V1.21d and then to V1.33. There have been a few cases of this since "test" V1.47f first showed up.
> 
> --Bob



I may be one of those people - to go back to 1.33 do you need to do 1.21d first?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/19365138
> 
> 
> I may be one of those people - to go back to 1.33 do you need to do 1.21d first?



Only if the re-install of V1.33 fails.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A reminder for folks with the original AVM 50 or D2 who might be thinking about installing "test" V1.47f:


The best info I have is that V1.47f is not going to work on some older production runs of the AVM 50 or D2 hardware.


Look through the top vent slots of your unit with a flashlight. If you can see that the video board (the big board at the top, right under the slots) is colored red -- even if it is a replacement board, *OR* if you can see that your power supply does *NOT* have the big, toroidal (donut shaped) transformer, then, if either of those is true, your hardware is OK for V1.47f.


If your power supply HAS the donut, *AND* your video board is gray or green, then your unit *MIGHT* be OK for V1.47f, but there is no easy way for you to tell, so don't install V1.47f without first checking with Anthem tech support.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Well if everything goes according to plan my replacement D2v will be paasing through customs and may get it Friday night. I've purchased 5 balanced interconnects to go b/w my Krell 5 channel amp and the Anthem. Really hoping there's nothing wrong with this unit. Can't wait.


----------



## slots1

Help.

Still have my D2. I loaded arc 3.0 last week, unpluged hdmi's, ran an 8 run. I changed the power amp in the seaton to Hp 2400 watts and volume seems low, so I had to rerun the sub a couple of times. Mark will check it out. But, I uploaded the arc to the D2 and everything worked fine.

I thought I would give it one more try tonight and I believe did everything the same. Everything now is in slow motion, takes minutes to power on, nothing moves right. No sound. I reinstalled the defaults and my saved old user settings. No luck the same. Bob or anyone.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/19367379
> 
> 
> Help.
> 
> Still have my D2. I loaded arc 3.0 last week, unpluged hdmi's, ran an 8 run. I changed the power amp in the seaton to Hp 2400 watts and volume seems low, so I had to rerun the sub a couple of times. Mark will check it out. But, I uploaded the arc to the D2 and everything worked fine.
> 
> I thought I would give it one more try tonight and I believe did everything the same. Everything now is in slow motion, takes minutes to power on, nothing moves right. No sound. I reinstalled the defaults and my saved old user settings. No luck the same. Bob or anyone.



Two things: First, you don't need to unplug HDMIs to do an ARC run. That's only for when you install firmware, i.e., so that the video board can be programmed properly.


Next, the symptom you describe says your firmware has become corrupted. Some portion of the D2 is crashing and rebooting repeatedly which is why things are slow. This can happen with the D2 if you cut wall power to everything instead of letting the D2 turn off normally. Anyway, the fix is easy: Re-install the firmware. Then re-Upload your latest ARC results.


If things are so bad that the firmware re-install doesn't work, then you'll need to run the Flash Eraser utility (from Anthem tech support) to clear your D2 and put it in a state where it will accept the firmware re-install.

--Bob


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19365203
> 
> 
> A reminder for folks with the original AVM 50 or D2 who might be thinking about installing "test" V1.47f:
> 
> 
> The best info I have is that V1.47f is not going to work on some older production runs of the AVM 50 or D2 hardware.
> 
> 
> Look through the top vent slots of your unit with a flashlight. If you can see that the video board (the big board at the top, right under the slots) is colored red -- even if it is a replacement board, *OR* if you can see that your power supply does *NOT* have the big, toroidal (donut shaped) transformer, then, if either of those is true, your hardware is OK for V1.47f.
> 
> 
> If your power supply HAS the donut, *AND* your video board is gray or green, then your unit *MIGHT* be OK for V1.47f, but there is no easy way for you to tell, so don't install V1.47f without first checking with Anthem tech support.
> 
> --Bob



Bob - what are the implications of it not working on an older D2 or AVM50? Will it not even complete the firmware update, or it will update and then not perform properly?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/19367639
> 
> 
> Bob - what are the implications of it not working on an older D2 or AVM50? Will it not even complete the firmware update, or it will update and then not perform properly?



I don't recall, as it's been quite some time since anyone posted on that. I suspect the firmware install will fail and you'll have to Flash Erase before rolling back to the prior firmware.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

I am getting a problem with my D2v. Last night and today my D2v switched the source from main to zone 2 and zone 3. All of a sudden the zone 2 and zone 3 lights go on and I loose picture and sound. I manually switched it back to main zone and every thing worked just fine. Any idea is appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19369706
> 
> 
> I am getting a problem with my D2v. Last night and today my D2v switched the source from main to zone 2 and zone 3. All of a sudden the zone 2 and zone 3 lights go on and I loose picture and sound. I manually switched it back to main zone and every thing worked just fine. Any idea is appreciated.



Check that you don't have Timers activated in Setup.


Check that somebody isn't playing games using the second remote.


If you have a programmable remote setup, check any recent changes you made.


Replace the batteries in the remote. If the problem recurs switch to the other remote and see if the problem goes away.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

Thanks Bob.

I have not played with the timer but I will check it to make sure.

There is only one remote in use. I have not setup the second zone. I have the setup for main zone only.

I have a programmable remote and will reload the setup again.

My remote is rechargable.


----------



## yacht422

walt here: this may be a question answered before, but with 1023 pages ti look through - - well - -

the recommended setup procedure(BOB) states to use only one sub in the {speakers} part of the s/u, (i.e. 2 fronts; 2 surrounds, 2 SUBS etc.)

what is the result if one measures using the 2 sub designation, as opposed to the one recommendation. {OR}

What, if we check one sub, and have 2; do we run only one in the testing sweeps, or tell arc to use (1) but actually have both subs active?


----------



## obie_fl

Take a look at Bob's reply here. In short use the one sub setting even if you have multiple subs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> walt here: this may be a question answered before, but with 1023 pages ti look through - - well - -
> 
> the recommended setup procedure(BOB) states to use only one sub in the {speakers} part of the s/u, (i.e. 2 fronts; 2 surrounds, 2 SUBS etc.)
> 
> what is the result if one measures using the 2 sub designation, as opposed to the one recommendation. {OR}
> 
> What, if we check one sub, and have 2; do we run only one in the testing sweeps, or tell arc to use (1) but actually have both subs active?



1 Sub vs. 2 Subs simply has to do with how the subwoofer volume trims are implemented in Setup > Level Calibration. 2 Subs automatically reduces the output to compensate for the contribution of the second sub.


The volume trims ARC Uploads are calculated assuming 1 Sub is set, so that's what you must use when using ARC even if you have more than one.

--Bob


----------



## xMEATx

Ok, I am going to hook a ps3 up to one of the hdmi inputs on the d2, which I will use to view bluray and play games. Which video setting should I use /24 for movies or /60 for games or is there an auto setting? My display is a pioneer plasma, which I think accepts most signals. Thanks for the help and I am sorry if this has been discussed before.


----------



## KenLand

Hi,


Can I set a particular HDMI source to NOT have its audio output on HDMI?


I get tired of turning down the TV's audio whenever I fire up the D2 for a movie. Then when the kids go to watch TV the volume is all the way down.


I've poked around Setup but don't see what I'm looking for.


Thanks,

Ken


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/19371688
> 
> 
> Can I set a particular HDMI source to NOT have its audio output on HDMI?



I don't believe you can do this Ken although this is an option I would love to have also. I'd even be happy if could turn off the HDMI audio output globally. You aren't the only one who gets tired of turning down the volume or turning off the TV speaker.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't believe you can do this Ken although this is an option I would love to have also. I'd even be happy if could turn off the HDMI audio output globally. You aren't the only one who gets tired of turning down the volume or turning off the TV speaker.



You can sometimes change the TV settings so it doesn't decode the HDMI audio for a particular input.


Cheers


----------



## slots1

Anthem gave me the password and I loaded flash eraser and 1.33.

It looks like my saved settings are gone. So, I have to start redoing the d2 as if it was brand new. I guess all my settings are gone. But, it works.

I have not reloaded arc yet .


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/19372257
> 
> 
> Anthem gave me the password and I loaded flash eraser and 1.33.
> 
> It looks like my saved settings are gone. So, I have to start redoing the d2 as if it was brand new. I guess all my settings are gone. But, it works.
> 
> I have not reloaded arc yet .



Yes Flash Eraser does clear any saved settings.


For future reference, you will find some useful utilities in the ARC install download. You can use SettingsBackup utility to save and restore your Setup menu settings via a PC file. You can use LiveVideoSettingsEditor to save and restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings. For ARC, of course, you just re-Upload your most recent results file.


I'm glad the D2 is working again for you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand* /forum/post/19371688
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Can I set a particular HDMI source to NOT have its audio output on HDMI?
> 
> 
> I get tired of turning down the TV's audio whenever I fire up the D2 for a movie. Then when the kids go to watch TV the volume is all the way down.
> 
> 
> I've poked around Setup but don't see what I'm looking for.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



No you can't turn off the stereo audio down-mix that's on the HDMI output.


Some TVs will let you select a different audio input for a given HDMI socket, in which case you can just select an audio input that's not hooked up. On many TVs there is a particular HDMI socket that works this way for use when connecting a DVI source device (which will have no audio on the digital video cable). Plug the D2 into that socket and simply don't cable anything to the stereo RCA jack pair on the TV that goes with it. There will likely be a setting in the TV to tell it the audio input should come from that unconnected stereo jack pair.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19371582
> 
> 
> Ok, I am going to hook a ps3 up to one of the hdmi inputs on the d2, which I will use to view bluray and play games. Which video setting should I use /24 for movies or /60 for games or is there an auto setting? My display is a pioneer plasma, which I think accepts most signals. Thanks for the help and I am sorry if this has been discussed before.



The PS3 has an auto setting for /24 Blu-Ray content. It will only send /24 when playing content which is on disc that way. In the D2, you can set a Video Output configuration for /24 output to your display, and then select that configuration when you want /24 to go to the display, or you can use the Frame Lock feature in Video Source Adjust > Output.


For movie discs, set the PS3 to use YCbCr output and set SuperWhite ON.


Despite that setting, the user interface on the PS3, and many games, will use RGB output, and that content is authored expecting to use what the Anthem calls "Extended RGB". In the PS3, set the RGB "Full" option -- which will only apply when RGB output is used. In The D2, select the PS3 for viewing, then press an hold the "7" button until the Video Source Adjust menu comes up. In the Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space menu you get to set two separate items -- one for how YCbCr input is handled and one for how RGB input is handled. Set Auto for the YCbCr and set Extended for RGB. NOTE: Normally you would use Studio RGB for home theater sources that output RGB, but the PS3 is a special case.


You can set the PS3 to upscale standard DVDs or not as you wish. However you can not set the PS3 to turn off de-interlacting for those. I.e., you can get 480p output but not 480i, which is annoying because the de-interlacing in the PS3 is not that great. For SD extras content found on Blu-Ray discs, the PS3 will NOT upscale that, so you'll get 480p regardless of what you set for SD-DVDs.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Thanks Bob,

I of course should have written all my settings down. I will use in the future the save on the pc and the video editor. Not looking forward to the long setup ahead of me.


----------



## xMEATx

Thanks Bob, again.


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19372065
> 
> 
> You can sometimes change the TV settings so it doesn't decode the HDMI audio for a particular input.



Unfortunately my display doesn't offer this option


----------



## usxplong

Now my D2v is turning itself on and off. If it is off, it goes on on its own and if it is on it will either go to zone 2 and 3 or turns itself off.

I checked the timers and they are all off. Any help?????


Thanks,


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19370641
> 
> 
> 1 Sub vs. 2 Subs simply has to do with how the subwoofer volume trims are implemented in Setup > Level Calibration. 2 Subs automatically reduces the output to compensate for the contribution of the second sub.
> 
> 
> The volume trims ARC Uploads are calculated assuming 1 Sub is set, so that's what you must use when using ARC even if you have more than one.
> 
> --Bob



bob: thx:walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19374695
> 
> 
> Now my D2v is turning itself on and off. If it is off, it goes on on its own and if it is on it will either go to zone 2 and 3 or turns itself off.
> 
> I checked the timers and they are all off. Any help?????
> 
> 
> Thanks,



Are you sending remote commands to any other device when this happens? Are you using any IR repeaters to get the IR to your equipment?


Try turning off the Rear IR inputs if they are not in use (Setup > IR). Sometimes reflections can be picked up by the Rear IR.


If the Rear IR inputs ARE in use, disconnect them and try using only the main (front) IR.

--Bob


----------



## m396 #00-011




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19374695
> 
> 
> Now my D2v is turning itself on and off. If it is off, it goes on on its own and if it is on it will either go to zone 2 and 3 or turns itself off.
> 
> I checked the timers and they are all off. Any help?????
> 
> 
> Thanks,



Same thing happened to my AVM50 1.5 years ago. Sent it in, and they couldnt get it to repeat, but they replaced some stuff anyway. Haven't had the problem since.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m396 #00-011* /forum/post/19375947
> 
> 
> Same thing happened to my AVM50 1.5 years ago. Sent it in, and they couldnt get it to repeat, but they replaced some stuff anyway. Haven't had the problem since.



Thanks I apprecuiate your input.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19374861
> 
> 
> Are you sending remote commands to any other device when this happens? Are you using any IR repeaters to get the IR to your equipment?
> 
> 
> Try turning off the Rear IR inputs if they are not in use (Setup > IR). Sometimes reflections can be picked up by the Rear IR.
> 
> 
> If the Rear IR inputs ARE in use, disconnect them and try using only the main (front) IR.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.

I am not using any IR and did try to disable all IRs in the setup but did not help.

Turning on and off happens any time even in the middle of the night. In the morning I see the D2v is on.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19376101
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> I am not using any IR and did try to disable all IRs in the setup but did not help.
> 
> Turning on and off happens any time even in the middle of the night. In the morning I see the D2v is on.



Reload the firmware. Leave Factory Defaults set after the install. Leave the unit over-night and see if it turns itself on. If it does then you likely need hardware service. My guess would be something is failing in the portion of the front panel that senses button presses.


If it doesn't then reload your personal settings and see if the problem is cured. If the problem comes back, then go back to Factory Defaults before you finish with the unit each night. What we are trying to determine is if the problem ever happens with Factory Defaults or just with your personal settings. If it only happens with your personal settings, then they may be corrupted (perhaps the portion that records Timers for example). Start from Factory Defaults and re-enter your personal settings manually (not from Saved Settings or a backup file).


By the way, we did have one report here like this a couple years back where it turned out the guy's cat was brushing against the front panel buttons at night....


Shutting off inexplicably could also mean you have faulty wall power. But that wouldn't explain the unit turning on inexplicably.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Bob or anyone...

D2 is working fine after the flash eraser and reinstalling 1.33..

But it is like starting all over again about 4 years ago. I have

Marantz 11S2

Oppo bd83

directv hr22

Thiel 3.7 and other Thiel's

Seaton hp submersive

Canon hv20

Does anyone have a print out of all the general settings.

Video setup.

Thanks

Gerry


----------



## mlbrand

Is ARC 3.0 going to work with my "older" D2 with firmware version 1.33?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is ARC 3.0 going to work with my "older" D2 with firmware version 1.33?



Yes. It is for all Anthem processors, and the new receivers, that support ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob or anyone...
> 
> D2 is working fine after the flash eraser and reinstalling 1.33..
> 
> But it is like starting all over again about 4 years ago. I have
> 
> Marantz 11S2
> 
> Oppo bd83
> 
> directv hr22
> 
> Thiel 3.7 and other Thiel's
> 
> Seaton hp submersive
> 
> Canon hv20
> 
> Does anyone have a print out of all the general settings.
> 
> Video setup.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Gerry



Start with getting the right video to your display. Since you likely already have the right settings in your display that's easy. Then set up the basics for your speakers. Then redo your Source definitions. Then finally do your ARC setup.


The default settings are intelligently chosen, so rely on them until you remember you had good reason to change one or another.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19376178
> 
> 
> Reload the firmware. Leave Factory Defaults set after the install. Leave the unit over-night and see if it turns itself on. If it does then you likely need hardware service. My guess would be something is failing in the portion of the front panel that senses button presses.
> 
> 
> If it doesn't then reload your personal settings and see if the problem is cured. If the problem comes back, then go back to Factory Defaults before you finish with the unit each night. What we are trying to determine is if the problem ever happens with Factory Defaults or just with your personal settings. If it only happens with your personal settings, then they may be corrupted (perhaps the portion that records Timers for example). Start from Factory Defaults and re-enter your personal settings manually (not from Saved Settings or a backup file).
> 
> 
> By the way, we did have one report here like this a couple years back where it turned out the guy's cat was brushing against the front panel buttons at night....
> 
> 
> Shutting off inexplicably could also mean you have faulty wall power. But that wouldn't explain the unit turning on inexplicably.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.

I did reload the firmware. Everything went smooth and left the unit disconnected for a few hours. Piero from Anthem suggested to connect the cable directly to the wall outlet not the surge protector. That help a little. The unit turned itself on once since yesterday and no switching to zone 2 and 3 so far.

I will leave the unit with factory default tonight as you suggested see what happens.

Thanks again Bob.


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff* /forum/post/18498021
> 
> 
> I have decided to run ARC from a new netbook computer that I just purchased. I downloaded the newest version of ARC and installed in the netbook.
> 
> I just tried to run ARC and I get a message that the software cannot "find a valid Anthem processor" (I have a D2 unit).
> 
> Any suggestions/ideas?
> 
> Thanks!!



Nicoff,


what netbook computer did you get? I am looking at the same option for my MRX receiver.


Thanks!


Tony


----------



## slots1

Bob

If possible could you give me a heads up on the video setup. Been to long. Also, do I need a second video setup for 1080p 24 for blu ray. Right now I just video 1 setup with 1080/60

Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/19380563
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> If possible could you give me a heads up on the video setup. Been to long. Also, do I need a second video setup for 1080p 24 for blu ray. Right now I just video 1 setup with 1080/60
> 
> Thanks



Start with the post links in the first post of this thread. "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs", is a good place to start. But again, you likely made all the adjustments in your display, and they are still in place, so all you need to do to restore the Anthem is to get the right resolution and data format to your display. So don't make this too hard for yourself. Odds are you want the default settings in the Anthem for video levels like Brightness as the necessary adjustments were probably made in your display.


You'll need a calibration disc to confirm that you've got things right. I recommend the Spears & Munsil Blu-Ray disc.


If you want to get /24 to your display you'll first need to set the Blu-Ray player to send that to the Anthem when appropriate. The player will have an Auto setting for that. If you were doing that before, then of course that's still set in your player. Then in the Anthem you can use a second Video Output configuration specifying /24 to the display which you use when that's coming as input from the player. Alternatively you can use the Frame Lock setting in Video Source Adjust > Output.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Bob

I was just being lazy. Thanks, i did go back to the first post and print out all items that I need. I hve been waiting for the magic D3, but it seems like all Anthem will due in the near future is update the HDMI boards for 1.4. So at that point if they still offer an upgrade to the new D2v I might grab it. It will be 2 years since the D2v came out. Do you have any further info?

Gerry


----------



## TKO1

Quick question for opinions on whether or not it is necessary to keep a Velodyne SMS-1 inline when you have ARC?


Currently I am using my SMS-1 to manage the frequency range below my Pioneer crossover cutoff (80Hz) and having tried to read this thread







in its entirety it seems like the SMS capability is replicated in the ARC measurements etc.?


Since I will be picking up an MRX receiver in the near future just trying to evaluate whether I should put the SMS-1 up for sale.


Any information greatly appreciated. Thanks!


Cheers.


Tony


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question for opinions on whether or not it is necessary to keep a Velodyne SMS-1 inline when you have ARC?
> 
> 
> Currently I am using my SMS-1 to manage the frequency range below my Pioneer crossover cutoff (80Hz) and having tried to read this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in its entirety it seems like the SMS capability is replicated in the ARC measurements etc.?
> 
> 
> Since I will be picking up an MRX receiver in the near future just trying to evaluate whether I should put the SMS-1 up for sale.
> 
> 
> Any information greatly appreciated. Thanks!
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> Tony



Odds are ARC will do the job for you, but try it first. If you need a lot of correction, you can do the SMS setup and then ARC on top of that. However the bass solution in the receivers seems to be quite good, so you can likely eliminate the additional processing in the SMS.

--Bob


----------



## TKO1

Thanks Bob. The SMS-1 provided a great evaluator for the ideal location for my PSB SubSeries 6i subwoofer. This by itself made it worthwhile. Just by finding the best location for it should really help the ARC software to finetune the low frequencies.


Cheers.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/19381842
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. The SMS-1 provided a great evaluator for the ideal location for my PSB SubSeries 6i subwoofer. This by itself made it worthwhile. Just by finding the best location for it should really help the ARC software to finetune the low frequencies.
> 
> 
> Cheers.



I retained my SMS-1 to set the phase and polarity of the sub in relation to my full range fronts. More accurate than setting by ear.


Ben


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/19381842
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. The SMS-1 provided a great evaluator for the ideal location for my PSB SubSeries 6i subwoofer. This by itself made it worthwhile. Just by finding the best location for it should really help the ARC software to finetune the low frequencies.
> 
> 
> Cheers.



You could use the quick measure tool in ARC to position the sub too or any other speaker. It produces continuous sweeps displayed on the graph. After a few sweeps it displays the response in real time on the graph.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19382357
> 
> 
> You could use the quick measure tool in ARC to position the sub too or any other speaker. It produces continuous sweeps displayed on the graph. After a few sweeps it displays the response in real time on the graph.



Problem is it doesn't show whether the sub is in phase/polarity or not in relation to your fronts.


----------



## marahal

Hi guys,

any news about the new hdmi 1.4 upgrade for avm50v?

Thanks in advance,


marcio


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *marahal* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> any news about the new hdmi 1.4 upgrade for avm50v?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> marcio



Likely in the spring.

John


----------



## TKO1

Does anyone know if Windows 7 Starter Edition is compatible with the ARC software? Am about to pull the trigger on a netbook which will only be used to connect to an MRX receiver via a Keyspan USB-Serial adapter.


Thanks in advance. Cheers.


Tony


----------



## marahal




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19382981
> 
> 
> Likely in the spring.
> 
> John



Tks John,

I thought I could use 3D in december









Still keeping video connected to the hdmi 1.4 of Tv,and audio SPDIF to AVM50v.

But not able to listen true HD audio because of SPDIF.Think I will have to buy a 1.4 hdmi splitter now so I can have true HD.


Well,hope they could make it sooner










Tks again


----------



## SimonNo10

As Friday fell through with getting my replacement D2v it's now going to be tonight which is great. Question..can I load my ARC settings from my last calibration onto this new unit?


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/19383342
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Windows 7 Starter Edition is compatible with the ARC software? Am about to pull the trigger on a netbook which will only be used to connect to an MRX receiver via a Keyspan USB-Serial adapter.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance. Cheers.
> 
> 
> Tony



Anyone? Thanks!


----------



## SimonNo10

Ignore my question above I just remembered that I'm now using balanced interconnects b/w my power amp and the D2v so the volume levels will be out. Suffice to say I now have my replacement unit and all is working perfectly using HDMI for both video and audio. Will; run ARC on the weekend.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19384730
> 
> 
> Ignore my question above I just remembered that I'm now using balanced interconnects b/w my power amp and the D2v so the volume levels will be out. Suffice to say I now have my replacement unit and all is working perfectly using HDMI for both video and audio. Will; run ARC on the weekend.



Glad to hear mate










Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/19383342
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Windows 7 Starter Edition is compatible with the ARC software? Am about to pull the trigger on a netbook which will only be used to connect to an MRX receiver via a Keyspan USB-Serial adapter.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance. Cheers.
> 
> 
> Tony



I don't know what's removed from "Starter Edition". The Anthem stuff depends on very little that MIGHT be removed (all the Anthem apps interact with Windows at a fairly basic level), but ARC needs the microphone capture framework that might be missing if they've removed media components.


Send an email to Anthem tech support to see if they know for sure one way or the other.


However, be aware that computer makers have in the past shipped modified versions of Windows bundled on their computers, and that meant that the Anthem stuff had problems on certain computers even though there was no problem when using the supposedly identical "retail" version of Windows. Odd are you won't have a problem like that with Windows 7 (I think Microsoft has clamped down harder on such problems), but the chance always exists.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19384730
> 
> 
> Ignore my question above I just remembered that I'm now using balanced interconnects b/w my power amp and the D2v so the volume levels will be out. Suffice to say I now have my replacement unit and all is working perfectly using HDMI for both video and audio. Will; run ARC on the weekend.



Enjoy!

--Bob


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19387193
> 
> 
> I don't know what's removed from "Starter Edition". The Anthem stuff depends on very little that MIGHT be removed (all the Anthem apps interact with Windows at a fairly basic level), but ARC needs the microphone capture framework that might be missing if they've removed media components.
> 
> 
> Send an email to Anthem tech support to see if they know for sure one way or the other.
> 
> 
> However, be aware that computer makers have in the past shipped modified versions of Windows bundled on their computers, and that meant that the Anthem stuff had problems on certain computers even though there was no problem when using the supposedly identical "retail" version of Windows. Odd are you won't have a problem like that with Windows 7 (I think Microsoft has clamped down harder on such problems), but the chance always exists.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,


appreciate the response. Cheers.


Tony


----------



## SimonNo10

Yes very happy now that I have a working unit. Did a quick reading with my spl meter and now using balanced interconnects, and the line level is now -8 compared to when I was using unbalanced which was -4. Will do a ARC cal this weekend.


----------



## tngiloy

Oppo is releasing the bdp-93 in the near future and I have some questions about the way it might work with my D2.

Right now I have the oppo-83 set up to send dvd out at 1080p (24p off) and bluray at 1080p (24p auto) to my D2. I have separate sources set up on my D2 for DVD and BR using different video configurations - 1080p/60 for DVD and 1080p/24 for bluray.

Even though the video going in and out of the D2 is the same, the D2 video processing is still working. Not working too hard, since most of the video setting are factory default, but still using energy and producing heat.


The new oppo-93 has 2 hdmi's out.

If I were to hook up one hdmi out to my display(with the same settings as the 83) and the second to the D2, can I turn off the video processing in the D2 by going into source set-up and setting 'scaler input' to 'none' and 'audio in' to 'hdmi' for DVD and BR?


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oppo is releasing the bdp-93 in the near future and I have some questions about the way it might work with my D2.
> 
> Right now I have the oppo-83 set up to send dvd out at 1080p (24p off) and bluray at 1080p (24p auto) to my D2. I have separate sources set up on my D2 for DVD and BR using different video configurations - 1080p/60 for DVD and 1080p/24 for bluray.
> 
> Even though the video going in and out of the D2 is the same, the D2 video processing is still working. Not working too hard, since most of the video setting are factory default, but still using energy and producing heat.
> 
> 
> The new oppo-93 has 2 hdmi's out.
> 
> If I were to hook up one hdmi out to my display(with the same settings as the 83) and the second to the D2, can I turn off the video processing in the D2 by going into source set-up and setting 'scaler input' to 'none' and 'audio in' to 'hdmi' for DVD and BR?
> 
> 
> Tom



The only way to get audio from an HDMI input is to have that processed as video since HDMI audio is actually embedded in the video signal. That means you have to send the HDMI video to the scaler.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Goodbye Oppo SE! Thanks for the memories


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19394266
> 
> 
> The only way to get audio from an HDMI input is to have that processed as video since HDMI audio is actually embedded in the video signal. That means you have to send the HDMI video to the scaler.
> 
> --Bob



So the only way to bypass the D2 scaler would be to use the 83's analog outs to the D2 and hdmi direct to the display?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> So the only way to bypass the D2 scaler would be to use the 83's analog outs to the D2 and hdmi direct to the display?



With the 83, yes (or optical digital audio).


With the 93's 2 HDMI outs you could run one to each.


But why would you want to bypass the Anthem when using the 83?

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19395170
> 
> 
> With the 83, yes (or optical digital audio).
> 
> 
> With the 93's 2 HDMI outs you could run one to each.
> 
> 
> But why would you want to bypass the Anthem when using the 83?
> 
> --Bob



Since their video processing is pretty much equal it makes more sense to me to use just one. I prefer the zoom/aspect ability of the oppo, and I think the D2 would run cooler if it wasn't doing the video processing.

But its not really a big deal since its starting to get pretty cold here in Colorado at night.










Really, I'm trying to justify buying a new component that I really don't need.


Tom


----------



## SimonNo10

Well I got around to performing ARC on my replacement unit now connected with balanced interconnects and here are the results. I haven't changed anything from the last calibration I did other than use balanced connectors b/w my power amp and the D2v.


What do you think Bob? I know you mentioned changing my mains to 90hz going by my last ARC calibration after I moved the sub away from the wall. Any tips to improve my current readings?


Also a question. I did measure the line level and i had to adjust it to -10.5 to get the spl to read 75db with all levels set to "0". I then set the sub to read 75db by adjusting the volume on the sub itself as per the instructions. My question is what becomes my reference volume on the D2v?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19395696
> 
> 
> Well I got around to performing ARC on my replacement unit now connected with balanced interconnects and here are the results. I haven't changed anything from the last calibration I did other than use balanced connectors b/w my power amp and the D2v.
> 
> 
> What do you think Bob? I know you mentioned changing my mains to 90hz going by my last ARC calibration after I moved the sub away from the wall. Any tips to improve my current readings?
> 
> 
> Also a question. I did measure the line level and i had to adjust it to -10.5 to get the spl to read 75db with all levels set to "0". I then set the sub to read 75db by adjusting the volume on the sub itself as per the instructions. My question is what becomes my reference volume on the D2v?



These look OK except that the level is low. I'm beginning to wonder if the problem isn't that the Setup > Level Calibration tones aren't producing the right results for folks using XLR cabling to their amps.


If that's true -- i.e., that the Setup menu test tones are doing something different from what normal audio inputs would do -- then you would likely need to raise the targeted level by 6dB (which is the standard difference between XLR and RCA outputs), or more if the bug is bigger than that. I.e., set up for 81dB instead of 75dB.


In your case your solution is coming in around 60dB and it should be closer to 75dB. Which basically means you should back out the -10.5 Test Level value you are using now and re-Measure.


-----------------------------------------


ETA NOTE: There's SUPPOSED to be a 6dB difference between XLR and RCA output -- XLR being louder because the signal is carried two ways and combined at the receiving end. Typically the power amp compensates for that, either providing 6dB boost to the RCAs or 6dB attenuation to the XLRs at its input. In some amps, this compensation at the inputs is switch selectable.


But even if the amp didn't do that, the tones Level Calibration is putting out, and the audio produced by the ARC sweeps or normal audio sources would see the same thing at the amp end and so there shouldn't be this big a difference between what you set for Test Level and what the ARC solution is producing.


It's almost as if Test Level is compensating but got it backwards -- making for a 12dB gap instead of 0dB, so that you end up lowering Test Level 12dB more than you should. But Test Level should NOT be compensating. As I said, it is standard, and expected, that the XLR outputs will be 6dB hotter, and any built-in compensation for that should happen at the power amp end.


-------------------------------------------------------


The other possibility is that there is yet another bug in the way ARC is generating its charts. If you had previous experience with a good ARC solution over HDMI you could test that easily enough by playing some content you are familiar with and seeing if roughly the same volume setting still sounds right. A 10 or 15dB change necessary to get to the proper volume would be easy to detect.


As is, you can try the same test based on your recent experience with analog inputs from the Oppo 83 as we know they are within a couple dB of what the HDMI input would produce when playing the same content.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19399032
> 
> 
> These look OK except that the level is low. I'm beginning to wonder if the problem isn't that the Setup > Level Calibration tones aren't producing the right results for folks using XLR cabling to their amps.
> 
> 
> If that's true -- i.e., that the Setup menu test tones are doing something different from what normal audio inputs would do -- then you would likely need to raise the targeted level by 6dB (which is the standard difference between XLR and RCA outputs), or more if the bug is bigger than that. I.e., set up for 81dB instead of 75dB.
> 
> 
> In your case your solution is coming in around 60dB and it should be closer to 75dB. Which basically means you should back out the -10.5 Test Level value you are using now and re-Measure.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA NOTE: There's SUPPOSED to be a 6dB difference between XLR and RCA output -- XLR being louder because the signal is carried two ways and combined at the receiving end. Typically the power amp compensates for that, either providing 6dB boost to the RCAs or 6dB attenuation to the XLRs at its input. In some amps, this compensation at the inputs is switch selectable.
> 
> 
> But even if the amp didn't do that, the tones Level Calibration is putting out, and the audio produced by the ARC sweeps or normal audio sources would see the same thing at the amp end and so there shouldn't be this big a difference between what you set for Test Level and what the ARC solution is producing.
> 
> 
> It's almost as if Test Level is compensating but got it backwards -- making for a 12dB gap instead of 0dB, so that you end up lowering Test Level 12dB more than you should. But Test Level should NOT be compensating. As I said, it is standard, and expected, that the XLR outputs will be 6dB hotter, and any built-in compensation for that should happen at the power amp end.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The other possibility is that there is yet another bug in the way ARC is generating its charts. If you had previous experience with a good ARC solution over HDMI you could test that easily enough by playing some content you are familiar with and seeing if roughly the same volume setting still sounds right. A 10 or 15dB change necessary to get to the proper volume would be easy to detect.
> 
> 
> As is, you can try the same test based on your recent experience with analog inputs from the Oppo 83 as we know they are within a couple dB of what the HDMI input would produce when playing the same content.
> 
> --Bob



Before arc 3.0 my calibration level was about +8 to put out 75 db. After installing arc 3.0 I now have to set the level to +13.5 to reach the 72 db spl. I had to raise the value in setup>volumes to achieve this. Sounds great and I do have a very large area and I am using balanced cables between the D2 and P5.


Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19399263
> 
> 
> Before arc 3.0 my calibration level was about +8 to put out 75 db. After installing arc 3.0 I now have to set the level to +13.5 to reach the 72 db spl. I had to raise the value in setup>volumes to achieve this. Sounds great and I do have a very large area and I am using balanced cables between the D2 and P5.
> 
> 
> Dick



Keep in mind that the older ARC still had the 6dB bug where you had to lower Test Level an additional 6dB to get the correct ARC solution (i.e., set Test Level for 75dB SPL, lower it 6dB more, run ARC, and end up with a 75dB ARC solution). ARC 3.0 has fixed that bug. That complicates trying to compare old and new results.


We're dealing with a different issue now where FOR SOME PEOPLE setting 75dB SPL in Test Level is producing an ARC solution near 60dB. We need to try to figure out what's common about the folks having this problem as obviously many people don't have it.


Simon just switched from analog inputs to HDMI (which shouldn't affect ARC setup at all since ARC uses neither one) and also just switched from RCA outputs to XLR outputs (which COULD possibly affect ARC setup). Before, he had no problem. Now he's got the problem. And I doubt he made a 10-15dB error in setting up Test Level.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765

getting a 75 db reading on my spl meter is not a problem and my cal. level is about 8.0 However then I only get a 60db level on my charts. If I set the cal. level to +13 or 14 then on my charts I get a 72db level.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19399321
> 
> 
> getting a 75 db reading on my spl meter is not a problem and my cal. level is about 8.0 However then I only get a 60db level on my charts. If I set the cal. level to +13 or 14 then on my charts I get a 72db level.



And you are using XLR cabling. OK so that's a 6dB change in Test Level producing a 12dB change in ARC solution. Gack!


Perhaps ARC's solution isn't linear with respect to Test Level, but jumps by, say, 6dB increments. In that case your lower Test Level may have been just below the threshold telling ARC to go for 60dB (based on what its mic is hearing), whereas your upper Test Level may have been just above the threshold next above that -- thus producing a two step jump or 12dB in ARC's solution.


------------------------------------


Is anybody here having this 60dB ARC solution problem, with ARC V3.0, who is using RCA cables to the power amps instead of XLR (balanced) cables?


I'm using RCA cables, and I do *NOT* have this 60dB solution problem.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765

Just may be able to help. I just received my AppleTV and am going to connect it this pm. While I am back there I an going to change back to single end cables. Just one question, what difference would it make if I set the selector switch on the back of the P5 to the +6 position with the balanced cables connected? would this do the same as connecting single ended cables. Forgot to mention I set the test levels with a RS analog and digital meter with new batteries.


----------



## clwhitlock

Bob,


I am using RCA's to the amp and running ARC 3.0, I reset the noise level to 75Db before running ARC 3.0. ARC 3,0 results produced a chart that indicated a level of 64 db. When I use the ARC 3.0 results the volume setting is the same as with the old ARC. It all sounds great so I am going to ignore the 64 db charts.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *clwhitlock* /forum/post/19399656
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I am using RCA's to the amp and running ARC 3.0, I reset the noise level to 75Db before running ARC 3.0. ARC 3,0 results produced a chart that indicated a level of 64 db. When I use the ARC 3.0 results the volume setting is the same as with the old ARC. It all sounds great so I am going to ignore the 64 db charts.



Yes, that is a good plan. The odds are this is going to turn out to be just another variant of the charting error that was tackled just before V3.0 became "official". The question though is why only some folks are seeing it.


Anyone else using RCA cables to the amps and seeing this issue?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19399501
> 
> 
> Just may be able to help. I just received my AppleTV and am going to connect it this pm. While I am back there I an going to change back to single end cables. Just one question, what difference would it make if I set the selector switch on the back of the P5 to the +6 position with the balanced cables connected? would this do the same as connecting single ended cables. Forgot to mention I set the test levels with a RS analog and digital meter with new batteries.



I don't know which way that switch is implemented. Is it "add 6dB" or is it "expect the input to already be 6dB hot".

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19161230
> 
> 
> Also, if anyone remembers my gripe with the HDMI Handshake problems with my video not coming in all the time and sometimes the audio, I have replaced my Canadian Dish receiver and that must have been the culprit as I am no longer having any issues..........so far.



I take this back, no problems with my new Satellite receiver but I still have problems. Too many times I get only the pink/purple screen while switching to my HTPC, and sometimes I don't get a picture with my Popcorn C-200 as I have it set on 1080p/24. A switch of inputs fixes all.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19399703
> 
> 
> I take this back, no problems with my new Satellite receiver but I still have problems. Too many times I get only the pink/purple screen while switching to my HTPC, and sometimes I don't get a picture with my Popcorn C-200 as I have it set on 1080p/24. A switch of inputs fixes all.



The pink/purple screen is confusion about whether RGB or YCbCr is being sent over the cable. Set the HTPC to an explicit choice for that instead of Auto and that should help.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19157960
> 
> 
> I re-ran ARC today with .17 trying to get more punchy bass as I have moved my subs just a little. I think they look a little better in the 60 to 100 hz range but I still need to improve, any ideas on what I should do next, maybe continue moving the subs by a few inches each time? Note the volume levels with .17 as all my volume trims are between 0 and plus 3.
> 
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19399359
> 
> 
> And you are using XLR cabling. OK so that's a 6dB change in Test Level producing a 12dB change in ARC solution. Gack!
> 
> 
> Perhaps ARC's solution isn't linear with respect to Test Level, but jumps by, say, 6dB increments. In that case your lower Test Level may have been just below the threshold telling ARC to go for 60dB (based on what its mic is hearing), whereas your upper Test Level may have been just above the threshold next above that -- thus producing a two step jump or 12dB in ARC's solution.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Is anybody here having this 60dB ARC solution problem, with ARC V3.0, who is using RCA cables to the power amps instead of XLR (balanced) cables?
> 
> 
> I'm using RCA cables, and I do *NOT* have this 60dB solution problem.
> 
> --Bob




With 1.7 I had posted about a level of 65db with RCA cables while setting level to 75db with my new trusty Radio Shack SPL Meter. I have yet to upgrade tp 3.0


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> With 1.7 I had posted about a level of 65db with RCA cables while setting level to 75db with my new trusty Radio Shack SPL Meter. I have yet to upgrade tp 3.0



There's a chart level fix in 3.0, so this older result may vary.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19399790
> 
> 
> There's a chart level fix in 3.0, so this older result may vary.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, next week I am doing room renovations to achieve better sound. I will change to 3.0 and rerun after that.


John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> In your case your solution is coming in around 60dB and it should be closer to 75dB. Which basically means you should back out the -10.5 Test Level value you are using now and re-Measure.



Damm was hoping that everything was settled now. As I have mentioned in previous posts I don't know how to interpret the graphs like you can so the values on the left hand side is that the volume level? and where your seeing 60db. I was unable to test any material after running ARC last night as it got too late but will tonight. So what your saying is reduce the line level to "0" and start over? Not sure how this will solve anything as the reading is the reading and i don't believe it's going to change. I will put a new battery in the spl meter just to cover that even though the one in there is only been used 3 times.


Also when you say OK for the graphs is there anything your seeing that needs improvement?


Thanks Bob for the reply.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19399731
> 
> 
> The pink/purple screen is confusion about whether RGB or YCbCr is being sent over the cable. Set the HTPC to an explicit choice for that instead of Auto and that should help.
> 
> --Bob



I was unable to set RGB or YCbCr so I checked for an update for my Nvidia driver and low and behold a new one just came out on the 25th. I upgraded and set my PC's output to YCbCr and will see how it goes. Thanks again Bob


----------



## myc52002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *clwhitlock* /forum/post/19399656
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I am using RCA's to the amp and running ARC 3.0, I reset the noise level to 75Db before running ARC 3.0. ARC 3,0 results produced a chart that indicated a level of 64 db. When I use the ARC 3.0 results the volume setting is the same as with the old ARC. It all sounds great so I am going to ignore the 64 db charts.



Mine acts exactly as described above except that I use balanced cables. I have also chosen to ignore the chart db readings. It seems to me the issue is with the chart and not the solution. Previous versions of ARC provided a 75db solution on my charts yet produced the same volume settings as I currently have for 3.0. I should add that I had to lower my test level to -9.5 to get my 75db level with 3.0. I forget what it was previously but it was no where near that low.


----------



## dherrick

I just ran ARC .0 on my D2v. I also am using balanced cables to my amp. I reset the test level to 75 db using a sound meter and had to lower the test levels by -4.0 db. My plots seem to be coming out at approx. 75 db.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just ran ARC .0 on my D2v. I also am using balanced cables to my amp. I reset the test level to 75 db using a sound meter and had to lower the test levels by -4.0 db. My plots seem to be coming out at approx. 75 db.



OK, so use of XLR cables doesn't explain it.


So far I don't think we have anyone with V3.0 60dB charts saying their solution really is 15dB down in volume. I.e., nobody saying they have to crank volume up 10-15 dB more than they are used to when listening to normal content.


Which means this looks like a charting error.


Now with the LAST charting problem -- the one fixed in V3.0 -- there was additional evidence. To wit: If you brought up a Quick Measure chart, the volume scale was CORRECT.


So perhaps someone with a 60dB solution can try that. Run Quick Measure on a main speaker and compare the volume level on that chart against the volume level for the red Measured curve for that speaker in the ARC solution.


(Don't forget to restore your settings afterwards. You can re-Upload your latest ARC results, or restore from Saved Settings if you saved in there.)

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/19400729
> 
> 
> I just ran ARC .0 on my D2v. I also am using balanced cables to my amp. I reset the test level to 75 db using a sound meter and had to lower the test levels by -4.0 db. My plots seem to be coming out at approx. 75 db.



What's with the 10KHz dip in all speakers? Could this be a microphone issue?


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19400815
> 
> 
> OK, so use of XLR cables doesn't explain it.
> 
> 
> So far I don't think we have anyone with V3.0 60dB charts saying their solution really is 15dB down in volume. I.e., nobody saying they have to crank volume up 10-15 dB more than they are used to when listening to normal content.
> 
> 
> Which means this looks like a charting error.
> 
> 
> Now with the LAST charting problem -- the one fixed in V3.0 -- there was additional evidence. To wit: If you brought up a Quick Measure chart, the volume scale was CORRECT.
> 
> 
> So perhaps someone with a 60dB solution can try that. Run Quick Measure on a main speaker and compare the volume level on that chart against the volume level for the red Measured curve for that speaker in the ARC solution.
> 
> 
> (Don't forget to restore your settings afterwards. You can re-Upload your latest ARC results, or restore from Saved Settings if you saved in there.)
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I replaced my balanced cables with single ended last night. Calibration level remains the same with the same db levels. I set the calibration level to 75db using my RS meter. I then did the quick measure and it said68 db. I then went to the measure screen and as the sweeps played my RS meter said 68db for all speakers. I will let you figure out the problem but it appears to me the sweeps from the Arc 3.0 are about 6 or7 db lower than the calibration level of the RS meters. Just don't know why. However it reads, the sound level with the volume set at -18 sounds the same level as it did before. Hope this helps a little.

dick


----------



## veerapaneni

Hi, I am trying to buy Anthem D2V and want to know what would be the easiest way to play FLAC files stored on my computer without loosing quality.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veerapaneni* /forum/post/19404599
> 
> 
> Hi, I am trying to buy Anthem D2V and want to know what would be the easiest way to play FLAC files stored on my computer without loosing quality.



I really like my Logitech SqueezeBox Duet, but plan on upgrading ASAP to their new SqeezeBox Touch model that will play up to 24 bit 96 khz hi rez music files. http://www.logitech.com/en-us/speake...s/devices/5745


----------



## SimonNo10

Hey Bob. I watched the first Back to the Future movie at -12.5 and the sound was loud so maybe the graphs are incorrect showing 60db? I will try something that i know very well at that volume and see what happens.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veerapaneni* /forum/post/19404599
> 
> 
> Hi, I am trying to buy Anthem D2V and want to know what would be the easiest way to play FLAC files stored on my computer without loosing quality.



Easiest and fastest way would be to have your flac files stored on a Windows desktop or laptop. Connect via usb to a good quality DAC which is connected by analog to your D2v.

Play the FLAC files thru media Monkey or FooBar.


Best way! Convert your Flac files to AIFF with Max and have your files stored on a WHS Server with a Mac Mini or on a Apple Laptop.

Connect either Mac device to High End DAC via Firewire or USB and connect DAC to D2v via analog/or balanced cables.

Play your audio files with Amarra or Pure Music.

There is a lot of info on the internet on how to use digital audio files.


----------



## veerapaneni




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19406164
> 
> 
> Easiest and fastest way would be to have your flac files stored on a Windows desktop or laptop. Connect via usb to a good quality DAC which is connected by analog to your D2v.
> 
> Play the FLAC files thru media Monkey or FooBar.
> 
> 
> Best way! Convert your Flac files to AIFF with Max and have your files stored on a WHS Server with a Mac Mini or on a Apple Laptop.
> 
> Connect either Mac device to High End DAC via Firewire or USB and connect DAC to D2v via analog/or balanced cables.
> 
> Play your audio files with Amarra or Pure Music.
> 
> There is a lot of info on the internet on how to use digital audio files.



Any DAC recommendation?. I am thinking of Logitech Squeezbox as suggested by mlbrand.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veerapaneni* /forum/post/19406201
> 
> 
> Any DAC recommendation?. I am thinking of Logitech Squeezbox as suggested by mlbrand.



If you use the Squeezebox, then you do NOT need to convert your FLAC files. FLAC is handled natively by the Squeezebox software.


If you use a Squeezebox, then you can connect digitally to the D2v and use it's DAC.


If you truly WANT to convert to analog and then digitize again going into the D2v, the Squeezebox Transporter (no longer sold, but available used) has the best DAC. The new Touch is reportedly very close in quality.


I use a Squeezebox Receiver connected digitally to the D2.


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok Bob I feel like a complete idiot. Tonight I tried a movie that I'm familar with and things just didn't sound right. It has just dawned on me that I didn't copy the new files onto my laptop for the different mic that has come with my replacement unit. I totally forgot to do this so please ignore my graphs as I would have selected the wrong mic when asked as that was the one that came with the faulty unit.


I have since removed those old files and replaced with the ones that came on the disc with the replacement unit. God I fell stupid can't believe I didn't think of it before. Will perform ARC on the weekend and see what I get. Sorry to have stuffed you around and others.


----------



## barrygordon

Re the Squeezebox, If you are planning to use the the D2v to do the decoding, then get the cheapest player you can that has the display you want. Since you will not be using the players DAC's but rather going over the digital link between the player and the D2v, then all of the squeezebox players produce the same digital (undecoded) output. IIRC the squeezeboom is the only one that does not have digital output. The transporter is beautiful, but a bit pricey.


----------



## Nantha1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Easiest and fastest way would be to have your flac files stored on a Windows desktop or laptop. Connect via usb to a good quality DAC which is connected by analog to your D2v.
> 
> Play the FLAC files thru media Monkey or FooBar.
> 
> 
> Best way! Convert your Flac files to AIFF with Max and have your files stored on a WHS Server with a Mac Mini or on a Apple Laptop.
> 
> Connect either Mac device to High End DAC via Firewire or USB and connect DAC to D2v via analog/or balanced cables.
> 
> Play your audio files with Amarra or Pure Music.
> 
> There is a lot of info on the internet on how to use digital audio files.




How about using Apple Lossless > Apple tv > HDMI > either DAC or direct D2v. Is there reasons to use FireWire or USB over HDMI? Is there a reason to use Mac Mini over Apple tv or is this just for it's hard drive?


----------



## ehlarson

Another vote for Squeezebox. I've been using one, sending the digital out to my D2V for over a year now. Works great.


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19404502
> 
> 
> Bob, I replaced my balanced cables with single ended last night. Calibration level remains the same with the same db levels. I set the calibration level to 75db using my RS meter. I then did the quick measure and it said68 db. I then went to the measure screen and as the sweeps played my RS meter said 68db for all speakers. I will let you figure out the problem but it appears to me the sweeps from the Arc 3.0 are about 6 or7 db lower than the calibration level of the RS meters. Just don't know why. However it reads, the sound level with the volume set at -18 sounds the same level as it did before. Hope this helps a little.
> 
> dick



That has been my experience: however, i am running a +8.5 test sweep to achieve 75db using the rat shack, and the results are at the 60 db line on the chart. [XLR]

I agree, it sounds like a charting issue, as our typical movie volume is -10db, and -5 to '0' for classical music.
However, I am also getting incomplete sweeps -i.e. good sweeps for position 1, and/ or 2 and /or 3, then it craps out with _error 0X03_ ( anthem tells me that is too low a test volume)

Rebooting sometimes fixes it, sometimes not.
Anyone else have this issue?

WALT


----------



## SimonNo10

Redid ARC today and here are my results using the correct MIC file. Had to set the line level volume to 10.5 as before.


----------



## SimonNo10

I've changed the crossovers to 80hz for everything and here are the results. What are peoples thoughts, which settings should I stick with? ARC default or the 80hz setting? I haven't uploaded the changes to the D2v as yet. Thanks


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nantha1* /forum/post/19407498
> 
> 
> How about using Apple Lossless > Apple tv > HDMI > either DAC or direct D2v. Is there reasons to use FireWire or USB over HDMI? Is there a reason to use Mac Mini over Apple tv or is this just for it's hard drive?



No one has a DAC that accepts HDMI. They are either USB or Firewire.

Mac Mini allows you to use the Itunes as a Data base and an other music player.

The DAC in the Apple TV is supposed to have very bad Jitter.

For $99.00 US what would you expect.

Why would you want to play Itunes thru an audiophile AVS like the Anthem ?

I do have and use the Transporter. Only the digital outs not the analog output.

I also use the Transporter to stream my audio from WHS to a high end DAC as the Logitech devices have a 96k limit.


----------



## SimonNo10

Seems not many look at this thread on weekends







. I wasn't satisfied with what I was hearing from the sub so I ran ARC again as I also forgot to set my rears to Direct from Dipole (default) so did it right this time. In the 3 times I have run ARC on this replacement unit my Atom laptop has rebooted every time when it gets to the stage of uploading the paramaters being the last stage of ARC. This of course hangs the D2v and I have to turn it off pressing the main power on the front panel then turning off at the back. I then reload the saved file and if works fine. My laptop is fairly new purchased this year running Windows XP (SP3) and it's fully up to date.


So when it crashes like this does it effect the way it's uploaded to the Anthem, having been interrupted? Here are the results after retrying and successfully uploading to the D2v.


In the first 2 post showing graphs I did 6 positions, but with the latest one I only did 5.


----------



## SimonNo10

Well lighting really does strike twice (not literally). My second D2v is now suffering the same symptoms as the first one now. I no longer get video from HDMI 1 (Output) and constant video dropouts on HDMI 2 (Output) and then it just stops working. Nothing has changed since last week where it was working fine other than the ARC load failing. Since it did that I reset the unit to factory defaults and then reloaded 2.10 and also uninstalled ARC from the laptop and did a fresh install. Neither has fixed the problem and I can't even get the on screen menu up through HDMI 1 and using HDMI 2 constantly flashes on and off. I have tried using HDMI 1 (Output) on my Sony Bravia lcd tv and I get no on screen menu. I can still get HD audio through the Oppo BD-83 no problem just not a picture. I can't believe this is happening for the 2nd time it's just so annoying and frustrating. I just can't see how anything I've got hooked up to it could cause this problem after it was working perfectly for a whole week and I changed nothing other than running ARC this weekend. I don't see how a failed ARC upload would render a HDMI input/output useless. Once again i have spent over 3hrs trying different configs in the menu (on the D2v display) and reset to factory defaults more than once. Nothing helps. I thought it may be the projector as it's clocked up 2690hrs but testing the D2v with my Sony ruled that out and that was using a different HDMI cable as well which is brand new.


Anyway I have spoken to the seller who I cannot fault for customer service and he will contact Audio Products and hopefully they have a unit they can bring over and then see what is happening with mine. For those that don't know this is my component list:


Projector: Sanyo Z4 (720p)


BD Player: Oppo BD-83


Krell TAS 5 Channel amp


Recently had 2 20A circuits with filtering and protecting module installed on main board plus both the Anthem and Oppo are plugged into a Thor PS10 power center.


----------



## JimP

Simon


By chance, if you have another HDMI device like a cable or satellite box, try plugging that in and see if your picture returns.


I'm speculating that Oppo may have had a firmware update that caused problems.


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks for the reply. I do have a Digital set top box I can try with HDMI, but even with the Oppo off and just turning on the projector and D2v I should at least see the Anthem menu? When the Oppo is on the status on the D2v shows input video and output video to be correct 1280x720p60 which is the native resolution of my projector, just don't get a picture anymore. Will try the set top box tonight and see what happens.


----------



## etrexler

I've been playing with v3 of ARC for two weeks and keep running into an issue upon upload which prevents me from completing calibration.


I keep get the message:


Upload/Verify failed.

Failed to upload/verify offsets


or


Upload/Verify failed.

Failed to upload/verify coefficients



Has anyone heard of this or seen this?



Thanks,


Eric


----------



## SimonNo10

Well that's what happended with me (sort of) as well when it got to the last part of uploading the parameters (yours gets past mine) got less than half way and then my laptop got the blue screen then rebooted. The D2v doesn't do anything so I turned it off from the front panel but 2 lights were still on so had to turn it off via the power switch at the back of the unit. As mentioned when I started up ARC again and loaded the file it saved after the calibration it sucessfully uploaded it. But 9/10 times when I run ARC for the first time it does the above, no idea why and I should have taken a screen shot of the error code windows displayed after it rebooted as it produced a report showing the error. I went to the Event log but it wasn't there which sucks as I could have sent that to Anthem tech support.


I've sent Anthem a detailed event message explaining my situation so hopefully they can resolve this as I just don't believe it's anything I'm doing. It's relatively simple procedure running ARC and uploading it as it all automated. I made sure that my comport had all the correct settings as per Anthem which was saved anyway from using it with the last unit , but I always double check just in case anything has changed. The laptop always finds the D2v no problem.


I have purchased a new 15m HDMI cable to replace the 12m one that is currently connecting the projector to the Anthem which was done just over 4 years ago. I still don't believe it's cable related as the unit was working perfectly for a week.


----------



## Orup70




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19410885
> 
> 
> No one has a DAC that accepts HDMI. They are either USB or Firewire.
> 
> Mac Mini allows you to use the Itunes as a Data base and an other music player.
> 
> The DAC in the Apple TV is supposed to have very bad Jitter.
> 
> For $99.00 US what would you expect.
> 
> Why would you want to play Itunes thru an audiophile AVS like the Anthem ?
> 
> I do have and use the Transporter. Only the digital outs not the analog output.
> 
> I also use the Transporter to stream my audio from WHS to a high end DAC as the Logitech devices have a 96k limit.



My plan is to use an Apple TV connected via HDMI to my Anthem D2v and an iPad as the remote control. The result should be a perfect lossless digital signal from iTunes where everything is stored in Apple Lossless.


In theory (i.e. if no major bug i present in the Apple TV) it would be impossible to design and construct any other device with better sound quality. No matter of price level. So I don't understand your comment "Why would you want to play Itunes thru an audiophile AVS like the Anthem?". Or are you referring to tracks stored in AAC or MP3?


A lossless digital chain from a lossless source to a digital high-end AVS is a good a it gets. Any other method of distribution introduces noise and distortion. You may get very close but not any better, and usually at a far higher price.


/ Påhl


----------



## myc52002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19417248
> 
> 
> Well that's what happended with me (sort of) as well when it got to the last part of uploading the parameters (yours gets past mine) got less than half way and then my laptop got the blue screen then rebooted. The D2v doesn't do anything so I turned it off from the front panel but 2 lights were still on so had to turn it off via the power switch at the back of the unit. As mentioned when I started up ARC again and loaded the file it saved after the calibration it sucessfully uploaded it. But 9/10 times when I run ARC for the first time it does the above, no idea why and I should have taken a screen shot of the error code windows displayed after it rebooted as it produced a report showing the error. I went to the Event log but it wasn't there which sucks as I could have sent that to Anthem tech support.
> 
> 
> I've sent Anthem a detailed event message explaining my situation so hopefully they can resolve this as I just don't believe it's anything I'm doing. It's relatively simple procedure running ARC and uploading it as it all automated. I made sure that my comport had all the correct settings as per Anthem which was saved anyway from using it with the last unit , but I always double check just in case anything has changed. The laptop always finds the D2v no problem.
> 
> 
> I have purchased a new 15m HDMI cable to replace the 12m one that is currently connecting the projector to the Anthem which was done just over 4 years ago. I still don't believe it's cable related as the unit was working perfectly for a week.



I was having the same problem as you. I was not using a keyspan USB/RS232 adapter but had not had any problems prior to ARC 3.0 with my other no name adapter (got it at BBY). I changed to the keyspan and have completed 5-10 uploads since then and not one crash.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Orup70* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My plan is to use an Apple TV connected via HDMI to my Anthem D2v and an iPad as the remote control. The result should be a perfect lossless digital signal from iTunes where everything is stored in Apple Lossless.
> 
> 
> In theory (i.e. if no major bug i present in the Apple TV) it would be impossible to design and construct any other device with better sound quality. No matter of price level. So I don't understand your comment "Why would you want to play Itunes thru an audiophile AVS like the Anthem?". Or are you referring to tracks stored in AAC or MP3?
> 
> 
> A lossless digital chain from a lossless source to a digital high-end AVS is a good a it gets. Any other method of distribution introduces noise and distortion. You may get very close but not any better, and usually at a far higher price.
> 
> 
> / Påhl



Are you going to use Irule to control the anthem Ne apple tv?


----------



## Nantha1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Orup70* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My plan is to use an Apple TV connected via HDMI to my Anthem D2v and an iPad as the remote control. The result should be a perfect lossless digital signal from iTunes where everything is stored in Apple Lossless.
> 
> 
> In theory (i.e. if no major bug i present in the Apple TV) it would be impossible to design and construct any other device with better sound quality. No matter of price level. So I don't understand your comment "Why would you want to play Itunes thru an audiophile AVS like the Anthem?". Or are you referring to tracks stored in AAC or MP3?
> 
> 
> A lossless digital chain from a lossless source to a digital high-end AVS is a good a it gets. Any other method of distribution introduces noise and distortion. You may get very close but not any better, and usually at a far higher price.
> 
> 
> / Påhl



Agreed. Note that new AppleTV has no DAC. It is a pure digital streaming product with only digital outs. So lossless delivery should be as good as anything out there. Would one still be concerned about jitter?


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/19409379
> 
> 
> Another vote for Squeezebox. I've been using one, sending the digital out to my D2V for over a year now. Works great.



Me too - I just got the Squeezebox Touch, that I am using to stream 24/96 music to my D2 and I really am amazed at how good the quality is. Buying a separate DAC doesn't seem to make sense to me when my D2 has great DACs inside it.


----------



## Kensmith48

I have a theater with 2 rows of seats (3 chairs in each row). The seats in the back are on a 12" riser. I'm about to load ARC 3.0 (D2) and was wondering about the mic placement for the rear seats. Should I put the mic at the same height as the front row or should I put it up on the riser with the mic sitting at the same height as the rear chairs?

I should add that I have a 7.2 speaker system with 2 speakers in the rear.



TIA,

Ken


----------



## veerapaneni




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/19420012
> 
> 
> Me too - I just got the Squeezebox Touch, that I am using to stream 24/96 music to my D2 and I really am amazed at how good the quality is. Buying a separate DAC doesn't seem to make sense to me when my D2 has great DACs inside it.



Got My Squeezbox Today. Going to get D2v This Saturday. Waiting to hear them


----------



## SimonNo10

I did some testing last night to try and get to the bottom of what's causing my HDMI 1 output to become unusable. I brought out my Sony Bravia LCD (1080p) tv and as per someones suggestion here, connected a digital set top box using HDMI to one of the inputs and then tried HDMI output 1 as per normal and received no picture. Ok so switched to HDMI output 2 and received a picture and audio through the main system without issues or drops outs of any kind. So with this in mind I reconnected the Oppo using the same connection and got video/audio dropouts?? So I brought my PS3 and connected exactly the same way as the Oppo nothing different and got a stable picture and audio was fine. As I had reset the Anthem to factory defaults, I reloaded my saved ARC file and then proceeded to play a BD movie for approx 20mins. Not once did the picture drop out or the audio, conclusion the Oppo could be at fault here.


So if the Oppo BD-83 being connected via HDMI to input 1 and projector to HDMI output 2, is it possible that if the Oppo sent out a bad signal can that cause the output to become useless? It's the only thing I can think of and I will test the Oppo on the Sony tv and see if it send a stable picture using HDMI. I will continue to test the PS3 today and see if it does remain stable.


----------



## perioms

Why is it possible for Sony or Harman/Kardon to upgrade their PS3 or receivers to work with 3d and not for Anthem?

I read yesterday an interesing article, which I want to resume for You to discuss.

First of all: You don`t need new cables for any of the new HDMI-1.4 features. Most of the 1.3 cables are drilled to enable secure data transport (Ethernet). If not it`s not the problem with length under 5m. The bandwith is sufficient for 3d (10,2Gbit/s).

2. Also old hardware (for example PS3) is able to work with 3d. The embedded HDMI driverchip (Panasonic MN8647091) is a HDMI 1.3c chip. For the chip it`s make any difference to transport a 3d-signal per frame packing or a 1080 2d signal. The chip can`t distinguish both. As mentioned the bandwith is sufficient.

3. We don`t need ethernet over HDMI, which requires new chips. But until now they are not available. None of the new 3d players offer this feature.


----------



## Orup70




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/19419044
> 
> 
> Are you going to use Irule to control the anthem Ne apple tv?



I bought an Philips Pronto TSU9400 remote control and an Philips RFX9600 serial extender late this summer that I haven't had time to program yet.


Unfortunately Philips discontinued all remote control business just a week ago so it was not my best investment so far







. But I'm a heavy "zapper" when watching TV and I need physical buttons to be able to zap without looking at the remote. But otherwise the Irule looks very nice. I didn't know about iRule when I bought the Philips. Still, the Pronto TSU9400 is a very nice remote and I can still program it with the existing software.


I will use the iPad with Apple's own Remove app which is very nice for controlling music playback from iTunes. Or if I magically get a lot of spare time available I may program my own iTunes remote controller in JavaScript on the Pronto.


----------



## Orup70




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nantha1* /forum/post/19419637
> 
> 
> Agreed. Note that new AppleTV has no DAC. It is a pure digital streaming product with only digital outs. So lossless delivery should be as good as anything out there. Would one still be concerned about jitter?



Unfortunately, jitter seems to be almost a religious matter in the hifi world so I'm not completely convinced what to believe.


But, as far as I understand, jitter should not be an issue with HDMI. The digital audio data is transported (lossless) in the video blanking part of the video signal. To get the audio data, the video processor in the Anthem D2v has to do it's magic first and the clock for the audio data has to be generated after the video path by the Anthem. So how the HDMI was transported to the Anthem D2v and through how many HMDI cables/repeaters/etc should be irrelevant. The only possible jitter issues would be in the Anthem's DAC circuits and those would be the same for any input (analogue or digital) if you are using ARC at all.


Even if jitter in HDMI was/is a real issue, the main question is: can you hear the difference? In a proper blind test? Other factors are probably far more important, like your room issues/treatment and possible ARC corrections.


I don't think HDMI is an issue when it comes to sound quality at all. On the contrary, I think it's the easiest and cheapest way to get a lossless audio signal to the Anthem. But who knows?


----------



## SimonNo10

I spent another night trying to work out what is causing my 2nd Anthem to become faulty or at least work out if it just is a failure of the unit itself. I have connected the Oppo to my TV and it works perfectly, also connected my PS3 to the Anthem and all seemed stable but I get video/audio drop outs every 5-10mins using HDMI output 2 as output 1 is totally gone. Nothing I've plugged into it works being the Oppo, Digital set top box and PS3. The video/audio drop outs are allot more frequent on the Oppo pretty much every 5secs so not useable on HDMI output 2, but the PS3 lasts about 5-10mins before the drop outs occur.


I'm basically at the end of testing now and have concluded that the failure is in the Anthem as everything suggests that now. The Oppo works fine on my LCD TV so if it's HDMI input was damaged in anyway it would have come up and it didn't. This whole situation is just unbelievable and I hope 3 times is the charm and the next unit I get is flawless. I've explained everything I'm doing to the seller and nothing I'm doing suggests it's causing this issue. The testing I've performed has ruled out cables, BD player and Projector. Just to be 100% thorough I have removed my Thor PS10 power center out of the chain and put back in a more basic power board (Ear Science powerbox locally made in Australia) that I know works. I will have the Thor serviced or at least looked at to rule that out as well. I can't afford to keep going through D2v units and finding out it's been a fault with something I've got in hooked into. I've even ordered a new 15m HDMI cable for the projector to rule that out as well but that was before doing more testing and I know now it's not cable related.


Things are pointing at yet another failing Anthem and my first unit I was told definetly had a bad HDMI board. I will be eager to find out what the issue is with my current one when it gets returned to the distributer. It's been a tough journey and one I didn't expect to happen but it has but I'm sticking with it and don't want to have to move onto a different brand as I do love the sound the D2v brings to my system. It's worth pursuing.


----------



## Nantha1

Thanks for your response. I have the new Apple TV hooked up so will come back with some observations.


----------



## KIDSMD1

[I spent another night trying to work out what is causing my 2nd Anthem to become faulty or at least work out if it just is a failure of the unit itself. I have connected the Oppo to my TV and it works perfectly, also connected my PS3 to the Anthem and all seemed stable but I get video/audio drop outs every 5-10mins using HDMI output 2 as output 1 is totally gone. Nothing I've plugged into it works being the Oppo, Digital set top box and PS3. The video/audio drop outs are allot more frequent on the Oppo pretty much every 5secs so not useable on HDMI output 2, but the PS3 lasts about 5-10mins before the drop outs occur.


I'm basically at the end of testing now and have concluded that the failure is in the Anthem as everything suggests that now. The Oppo works fine on my LCD TV so if it's HDMI input was damaged in anyway it would have come up and it didn't. This whole situation is just unbelievable and I hope 3 times is the charm and the next unit I get is flawless. I've explained everything I'm doing to the seller and nothing I'm doing suggests it's causing this issue. The testing I've performed has ruled out cables, BD player and Projector. Just to be 100% thorough I have removed my Thor PS10 power center out of the chain and put back in a more basic power board (Ear Science powerbox locally made in Australia) that I know works. I will have the Thor serviced or at least looked at to rule that out as well. I can't afford to keep going through D2v units and finding out it's been a fault with something I've got in hooked into. I've even ordered a new 15m HDMI cable for the projector to rule that out as well but that was before doing more testing and I know now it's not cable related.


Things are pointing at yet another failing Anthem and my first unit I was told definetly had a bad HDMI board. I will be eager to find out what the issue is with my current one when it gets returned to the distributer. It's been a tough journey and one I didn't expect to happen but it has but I'm sticking with it and don't want to have to move onto a different brand as I do love the sound the D2v brings to my system. It's worth pursuing.]


I have the same identical problem that you have with the HDMI outputs (No picture from 1 and severe video dropouts with 2). My problem started after 5 months of flawless performance. My Dv2 just started with dropouts on output 1 without any updates being performed, of course I immediately installed the latest firmware without any success I tried 3 different 10m HDMI cables to my projector with no change (during this time output 1 stopped functioning completely and output 2 performed with the continued constant dropouts) I contacted Anthem and despite all suggestions the problem remained. I sent my unit to them for inspection about two weeks ago and I'm waiting patiently for a response. They responded as if this was the 1st episode they had of such a malfunction and of course your notation of 2UNITS!!! with this problem is very troubling too me. There is something definitely wrong with the Anthems HDMI or video board because I hooked up a $100+ Sony HDMI receiver and everything I have works perfectly fine through its video inputs and output. I'm still waiting to hear from Anthem.

I wish you all the success in fixing your problem and pray Anthem comes up with the correct fix!

Sorry here is a list of my pertinent equipment: Component Equipment:

Anthem Statement D2v - PRE/PRO

Digital Sources:

OPPO BDP-83SE NuForce Edition (Bluray Universal Disc Player )

Sony PS3- Bluray disc Player and gamer

Toshiba HD-XA2- HD DVD player

SA 8300HD DVR- Cable box

DirecTV HD DVR20 (2)- Sat DVR's

XBOX 360

HT Video:

Stewart HDTV 133" electrosol Luxus A Ultramatte 150- FS

JVC RS-1 - Projector(1080P/24)


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Orup70* /forum/post/19423570
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, jitter seems to be almost a religious matter in the hifi world so I'm not completely convinced what to believe.



This hour long video addresses it and several other audio myths:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYTlN6wjcvQ 


side topic - 5:15 - 8:00 nicely demonstrates how backwards other things have been since the quadrophonic days.


---------------------------


HDMI-out dropout problems:


There's the one unit that we recently recommended be sent here to be checked - it arrived on the 26th and had its video board replaced on the 27th. Feel free to contact us for status any time - [email protected] , or reply to your e-mail from Andrew or Piero, or call 905-362-0958, option 2.


Regarding the other two units, international distributors handle service but feel free to contact us directly regardless. We know nothing about the first one.


When we get a problem report, and this makes no difference who it comes from, we always start with the basics such as trying 8-bit output. From there the simple and common possibilities are eliminated step by step to determine the next one. Operators are standing by.


----------



## jitenn

Hi all,


New owner of the AVM 50v and loving it! Quick q: not sure if this is the right forum, but figured I'd try. Any recommendations for a good


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jitenn* /forum/post/19425767
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> New owner of the AVM 50v and loving it! Quick q: not sure if this is the right forum, but figured I'd try. Any recommendations for a good


----------



## jb5200

Hey everyone,


I posted this about a month back but I still am struggling with this. I use my D1 for 2.1 ch music only and I want to use the 2 ch balanced. I have everything connected correctly (I think) - balanced out of DAC>2 ch. in on D1>balance out of D1 to the amps and sub.


I went into the menu for 2 ch. BAL and changed it to AnalogDSP and it is fuzzier than all get out. I switched to AnalogDIR and it is clear as a bell. I went into the menus and made sure all of the levels were 0 b/c my buddy had the same thing but noticed his input level was really high - when he moved it to 0 it was perfect. At this point I have it connected RCA analogDSP for CD as well and it is clear as well but this is not my preferred connection b/c it is a little more precise/focused using the XLR.


What am I doing wrong?


Thanks,


Jeff


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> This hour long video addresses it and several other audio myths:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYTlN6wjcvQ
> 
> 
> side topic - 5:15 - 8:00 nicely demonstrates how backwards other things have been since the quadrophonic days.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------
> 
> 
> HDMI-out dropout problems:
> 
> 
> There's the one unit that we recently recommended be sent here to be checked - it arrived on the 26th and had its video board replaced on the 27th. Feel free to contact us for status any time - [email protected] , or reply to your e-mail from Andrew or Piero, or call 905-362-0958, option 2.
> 
> 
> Regarding the other two units, international distributors handle service but feel free to contact us directly regardless. We know nothing about the first one.
> 
> 
> When we get a problem report, and this makes no difference who it comes from, we always start with the basics such as trying 8-bit output. From there the simple and common possibilities are eliminated step by step to determine the next one. Operators are standing by.



Very cool to see the folks at Anthem respond to issues in real time on this forum. Thanks for the confidence booster Nick as I am about to pull the trigger on one of your units.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/19426304
> 
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> 
> I posted this about a month back but I still am struggling with this. I use my D1 for 2.1 ch music only and I want to use the 2 ch balanced. I have everything connected correctly (I think) - balanced out of DAC>2 ch. in on D1>balance out of D1 to the amps and sub.
> 
> 
> I went into the menu for 2 ch. BAL and changed it to AnalogDSP and it is fuzzier than all get out. I switched to AnalogDIR and it is clear as a bell. I went into the menus and made sure all of the levels were 0 b/c my buddy had the same thing but noticed his input level was really high - when he moved it to 0 it was perfect. At this point I have it connected RCA analogDSP for CD as well and it is clear as well but this is not my preferred connection b/c it is a little more precise/focused using the XLR.
> 
> 
> What am I doing wrong?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jeff



Jeff,

I have my Ayre cdp hooked up to my D2 via xlr and it works fine. So should yours. The only difference I hear between Analog-dsp or direct is the loss of bass and ARC. IMHO, mine sounds significantly better in analog-dsp because of ARC and added bass. It shouldn't sound fuzzy.

You will need to use analog-dsp in order to use the bass management in the D1. It sounds as if you have it set correctly, but please check a couple of settings.


Are you using ARC, or setting the speakers and crossovers yourself? Make sure youre speaker configuations are set correctly for movie and music. For music you will need fronts and sub only. Your cross-overs should be set accordingly for your speakers.


Make sure your 'source preset' for 2-ch is for 'stereo' and not some multi-channel setting like DTS music.


Make sure that you have chosen 'music' and not 'movie' or 'auto lfe' in the 2-ch souce set-up.


FWIW I have my 2-ch set to -6 in the 'analog input level' section since the balanced connection runs a little higher.



You mention that you are running balanced into the D1 from your dac.

Are you running a cdp into the dac with balanced or rca? Or a computer via usb to the dac?

If you are running a cdp to your dac and you have balanced out on the cdp, have you tried bypassing the dac and going balanced in directly from the cdp to the D1?


Is there a way you can check your dac by connecting it to another pre/pro or receiver at a freinds house or A/V store? It is possible that the problem could be the balanced circuity in the dac and not the D1. This could rule out a problem with the dac's balanced circuity.


Are there settings in your dac that could affect the balanced output, and if so are they set correctly?


Bottom line is your D1 should sound as good or better with a balanced connection from your dac. It is pssible ther is a problem with the D1's balanced cicuity, but unlikely. Its possible that there is a problem with your dac's balanced circuity, but unlikely. Most likely a simple setting error.


Good luck,

Tom


----------



## PaulF

Sorry if this has been asked and answered. I have searched this thread and the user manual without luck.


Can the D2v simultaneously support the output of one video source and a different audio source -- say SAT for video while audio comes from DVD or CD...


- when using HDMI?

- When using analog inputs?


Thanks


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> When we get a problem report, and this makes no difference who it comes from, we always start with the basics such as trying 8-bit output. From there the simple and common possibilities are eliminated step by step to determine the next one. Operators are standing by.



Thanks for that. I have received an e-mail from one of your support guys and he suggested the 8bit but I had already covered that having dealt with this issue with my first unit and ran out of ideas but obviously he doesn't know my history. I haven't however heard anything back after I sent him my serial number early yesterday of my current unit. As you know I've spent quite a bit of time eliminating everything I can possibley think of but to no avail...it has to be the Anthem.


Nick has anything changed in relation to Anthem's supplier of the boards? Clearly going by my experiences and now KIDSMD1 now having the same issues something may have changed. My brother's has worked flawlessly since he purchased his earlier this year but for me to go through 2 units within a month is just crazy for this sort of level of equipment. Can I be so unlucky that 2 units are both faulty?


I have faith in this product but it's really strectching it now that this has happened to me twice and spending far too much time personally trying to rule things out and testing when after doing this the answer has to be the D2v being at fault as it's the only thing that's changed in my setup. It's costing me a bit as I'm doubting that it's the D2v and it's something else so I've spent $189 on a new HDMI cable (15m) and new USB-RS-232 cable $54 etc. I've sent the seller that sold me my Oppo BD-83 explaining the situation and in the 4 years of them selling Oppo's there've never heard of one shorting out an HDMI input. Unfortunatly this is a very long process when you have to personally rule every component out as one has to think that a processer this good can't be at fault,considering how many happy owners there are on this forum.


Sorry for the rant but I just want a D2v to be perfect so I can actually sit back and enjoy the purchase but so far it's been a nightmare. Thank you KIDSMD1 for sharing your experience as that now has confirmed it's not my other equipment it's the Anthem. Please Nick can we get to the bottom of this ASAP.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/19427412
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been asked and answered. I have searched this thread and the user manual without luck.
> 
> 
> Can the D2v simultaneously support the output of one video source and a different audio source -- say SAT for video while audio comes from DVD or CD...
> 
> 
> - when using HDMI?
> 
> - When using analog inputs?
> 
> 
> Thanks



See "Simucast" in the manual (4.4.2 in D2 manual). One of the connections has to be analogue.


----------



## PaulF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19427451
> 
> 
> See "Simucast" in the manual (4.4.2 in D2 manual). One of the connections has to be analogue.



Thanks, I must have scanned right over it. This will do what I need. I just need to run an extra analog audio cable from my Blu-Ray player. No biggie.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/19427412
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been asked and answered. I have searched this thread and the user manual without luck.
> 
> 
> Can the D2v simultaneously support the output of one video source and a different audio source -- say SAT for video while audio comes from DVD or CD...
> 
> 
> - when using HDMI?
> 
> - When using analog inputs?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yes, in fact it's easy. You can set up a Source definition to do just that or use the "Simulcast" feature to do that on the fly.


EXCEPT: You can't combine audio from an HDMI source with video from any other source. The reason is that HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of HDMI video (even if that's just a black screen from an "audio only" HDMI source). That means the HDMI signal has to be "processed" to extract the audio from the video, and that's done by the video processor.


There is only one video processor in the D2v, so if it is busy extracting the audio from some HDMI source it can't also process the video from some other source.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19427451
> 
> 
> See "Simucast" in the manual (4.4.2 in D2 manual). One of the connections has to be analogue.



It's less restrictive than that. The correct statement is that the audio signal can not be on HDMI if you want to mix distinct audio/video sources.


So for example you can combine an HDMI video signal from one source device with an optical digital audio signal from some other source device.


But you can't combine an HDMI audio signal with video coming in on anything other than that very same HDMI cable.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19427428
> 
> 
> Thanks for that. I have received an e-mail from one of your support guys and he suggested the 8bit but I had already covered that having dealt with this issue with my first unit and ran out of ideas but obviously he doesn't know my history. I haven't however heard anything back after I sent him my serial number early yesterday of my current unit. As you know I've spent quite a bit of time eliminating everything I can possibley think of but to no avail...it has to be the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Nick has anything changed in relation to Anthem's supplier of the boards? Clearly going by my experiences and now KIDSMD1 now having the same issues something may have changed. My brother's has worked flawlessly since he purchased his earlier this year but for me to go through 2 units within a month is just crazy for this sort of level of equipment. Can I be so unlucky that 2 units are both faulty?
> 
> 
> I have faith in this product but it's really strectching it now that this has happened to me twice and spending far too much time personally trying to rule things out and testing when after doing this the answer has to be the D2v being at fault as it's the only thing that's changed in my setup. It's costing me a bit as I'm doubting that it's the D2v and it's something else so I've spent $189 on a new HDMI cable (15m) and new USB-RS-232 cable $54 etc. I've sent the seller that sold me my Oppo BD-83 explaining the situation and in the 4 years of them selling Oppo's there've never heard of one shorting out an HDMI input. Unfortunatly this is a very long process when you have to personally rule every component out as one has to think that a processer this good can't be at fault,considering how many happy owners there are on this forum.
> 
> 
> Sorry for the rant but I just want a D2v to be perfect so I can actually sit back and enjoy the purchase but so far it's been a nightmare. Thank you KIDSMD1 for sharing your experience as that now has confirmed it's not my other equipment it's the Anthem. Please Nick can we get to the bottom of this ASAP.



Simon, I'm sorry to hear you are having a repeat problem. The odds of this being two video board failures are pretty slim. It could happen, but your first thought should be that there is something else going on here.


My inclination would be to investigate the mechanical connection you are using for HDMI 1. Is it a bad plug that's damaging the socket? Is it the weight of the cable that's levering the socket loose from the PC board?


You are already acting on my second thought, which is that the cable to your projector is marginal in some way.


Now of course there is still a possibility that you were so unfortunate as to get two lemon units in a row. But it really is worth looking at the other possible causes.


If you can't get HDMI video now from HDMI 1, even using a short cable to a display, then yep that HDMI socket is dead. The trick is to figure out WHY that happened. Twice.

--Bob


----------



## jb5200

Tom,


Thanks for the tips. I have a computer connected to my DAC with coax in using a hiface. I did check to make sure that the mode was in stereo - I checked just about every menu setting and and no luck.


The weird thing is when I put it on AnalogDIR it is perfect, as soon as I change it to AnalogDSP it is super fuzzy like something isn't connected right.


I did run ARC and left all of those settings the same so I will try the menus again.


This happened to my buddy when he got his and we went through all the menus and found one of the input levels was high and we put it to 0 and it was fixed. But like I said I checked all the levels and they were 0.


I am going to try running ARC again to see if that helps anything but I don't see how that will. I am at a loss!


Thanks again Tom!


----------



## daren_p

Bob, you asked earlier about guys who charts are showing up ~60db, here are my charts which are centered ~61db. Level was set to 75 db before calibration & sub adjusted properly. A digital sound meter was used, I brought another new one home from work today, a different model & measured similar results to the first meter. When I check my ARC calibrated levels, I get around 72db on my sound meter. As for loudness level after ARC, it appears to be "normal"


What are everyones thoughts on the charts? I know my sub is an issue, as it rolls off much to quickly but as the system is currently in a bedroom, I don't have alot of choice on sub size & placement (SVS SB-12 plus). I know that ~125hz dip in the left front is also an issue but I can't do much with placement. The speakers are about the best I can do, with the room but I got a new bed that's 30" tall & this seems to be part of my issue. The system will be moved to another room in the future.


For the surround's, their on-wall speakers that are currently sitting on not so great stands (they need to be filled I think) till I get them properly mounted. I was hoping once mouted properly their bottom end will be better but currently it looks like I can change the crossover from 110 to 100 or maybe 95 with descent results. I haven't played much as their not in their correct spot.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/19426304
> 
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> 
> I posted this about a month back but I still am struggling with this. I use my D1 for 2.1 ch music only and I want to use the 2 ch balanced. I have everything connected correctly (I think) - balanced out of DAC>2 ch. in on D1>balance out of D1 to the amps and sub.
> 
> 
> I went into the menu for 2 ch. BAL and changed it to AnalogDSP and it is fuzzier than all get out. I switched to AnalogDIR and it is clear as a bell. I went into the menus and made sure all of the levels were 0 b/c my buddy had the same thing but noticed his input level was really high - when he moved it to 0 it was perfect. At this point I have it connected RCA analogDSP for CD as well and it is clear as well but this is not my preferred connection b/c it is a little more precise/focused using the XLR.
> 
> 
> What am I doing wrong?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Jeff



Jeff, it sounds to me like you have a hardware failure in the circuit path that digitizes that 2-Channel balanced input. Try this: Get some simple RCA to XLR adapters and run RCA from your player through those into the XLR inputs on the Anthem. Does it still sound screwed up? If so then that XLR input needs service.


Now be aware that XLR, by design, has a different voltage (volume) level from RCA. So you may need to adjust the analog audio input level (in Setup menu) for the 2-Channel input if your source is putting out different voltage from what it expects. But the fact that things sound OK using Analog-Direct suggests that isn't the problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daren_p* /forum/post/19427820
> 
> 
> Bob, you asked earlier about guys who charts are showing up ~60db, here are my charts which are centered ~61db. Level was set to 75 db before calibration & sub adjusted properly. A digital sound meter was used, I brought another new one home from work today, a different model & measured similar results to the first meter. When I check my ARC calibrated levels, I get around 72db on my sound meter. As for loudness level after ARC, it appears to be "normal"
> 
> 
> What are everyones thoughts on the charts? I know my sub is an issue, as it rolls off much to quickly but as the system is currently in a bedroom, I don't have alot of choice on sub size & placement (SVS SB-12 plus). I know that ~125hz dip in the left front is also an issue but I can't do much with placement. The speakers are about the best I can do, with the room but I got a new bed that's 30" tall & this seems to be part of my issue. The system will be moved to another room in the future.
> 
> 
> For the surround's, their on-wall speakers that are currently sitting on not so great stands (they need to be filled I think) till I get them properly mounted. I was hoping once mouted properly their bottom end will be better but currently it looks like I can change the crossover from 110 to 100 or maybe 95 with descent results. I haven't played much as their not in their correct spot.



I think the evidence is building that we have just another chart error. I.e., the shape of the chart curves is correct, but the volume level being reported is wrong.


I've got no idea why only some folks are seeing this.


-------------------------------


As to your results, it looks like the sub is too small for the room, thus the inability to go below 30Hz. For your Music configuration, even though your fronts can do just about as well as your sub (from the chart), I think you might still be better off leaving the sub in the configuration as it most likely can do better down there when the volume goes up.


For the 125Hz dip, try lowering Room Gain a bit as that will decrease the hump near the crossover frequencies. You could easily lower it 1/2 dB without hearing a difference. You might hear a 1 dB decrease, but if that gets you a clean solution that might be better.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/19420054
> 
> 
> I have a theater with 2 rows of seats (3 chairs in each row). The seats in the back are on a 12" riser. I'm about to load ARC 3.0 (D2) and was wondering about the mic placement for the rear seats. Should I put the mic at the same height as the front row or should I put it up on the riser with the mic sitting at the same height as the rear chairs?
> 
> I should add that I have a 7.2 speaker system with 2 speakers in the rear.
> 
> 
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Ken



My recommendation is that you set the mic height to seated ear height for each row (i.e., different heights).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19417248
> 
> 
> Well that's what happended with me (sort of) as well when it got to the last part of uploading the parameters (yours gets past mine) got less than half way and then my laptop got the blue screen then rebooted. The D2v doesn't do anything so I turned it off from the front panel but 2 lights were still on so had to turn it off via the power switch at the back of the unit. As mentioned when I started up ARC again and loaded the file it saved after the calibration it sucessfully uploaded it. But 9/10 times when I run ARC for the first time it does the above, no idea why and I should have taken a screen shot of the error code windows displayed after it rebooted as it produced a report showing the error. I went to the Event log but it wasn't there which sucks as I could have sent that to Anthem tech support.
> 
> 
> I've sent Anthem a detailed event message explaining my situation so hopefully they can resolve this as I just don't believe it's anything I'm doing. It's relatively simple procedure running ARC and uploading it as it all automated. I made sure that my comport had all the correct settings as per Anthem which was saved anyway from using it with the last unit , but I always double check just in case anything has changed. The laptop always finds the D2v no problem.
> 
> 
> I have purchased a new 15m HDMI cable to replace the 12m one that is currently connecting the projector to the Anthem which was done just over 4 years ago. I still don't believe it's cable related as the unit was working perfectly for a week.



I suggest you use the Manual mode with ARC. This lets you decide separately to do a Measurement, a Calculation, and an Upload.


After you get a good Measurement, save the file and then go back into ARC, do your Calculation, with any tweaking, and then do the Upload.


The automatic ARC process that does each in turn should work of course, but doing the steps separately might help work around whatever resource constraint or bug in your laptop is preventing the Upload from completing normally.

--Bob


----------



## daren_p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19427864
> 
> 
> I think the evidence is building that we have just another chart error. I.e., the shape of the chart curves is correct, but the volume level being reported is wrong.
> 
> 
> I've got no idea why only some folks are seeing this.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------
> 
> 
> As to your results, it looks like the sub is too small for the room, thus the inability to go below 30Hz. For your Music configuration, even though your fronts can do just about as well as your sub (from the chart), I think you might still be better off leaving the sub in the configuration as it most likely can do better down there when the volume goes up.
> 
> 
> For the 125Hz dip, try lowering Room Gain a bit as that will decrease the hump near the crossover frequencies. You could easily lower it 1/2 dB without hearing a difference. You might hear a 1 dB decrease, but if that gets you a clean solution that might be better.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks for the input Bob. I only have about two spots I can put the sub, the posted chart is actually with the sub in the corner but there's furniture that's ~15" tall , about 2' infront of the sub so that may not be helping things (sealed, front firing). The other spot is closer to the middle of the room, it may have actually not rolled off quite as much (did my origional ARC 2.4 with it in the other position) but it doesn't seem to be night & day difference when comparing charts (ie maybe a db difference). I may switch back to the other spot & try again.


I wouldn't think the room is too large as its on the small side approx 13x14x8, I would think the sub should pressurize the room but it doesn't appear to be doing so.


As for running the sub with 2 channel music, I've tried & defently don't get the results I get with just the two towers. While ARC has done a great job at integrating the sub, it still doesn't offer the quality, speed, detail & tone in the bottom end the towers do by themselves. I've switched back & forth & while the sub may offer a db or two more in the lower end, its not worth the trade off in quality & in most music its not even noticeable or only noticeable on certain songs if you switch back & forth. My towers have 4 7" drivers in each cabinet & have never been close to running out of steam, the more you turn them up, the better they sound







Not my normal choice of music but you can put on a hiphop/rap etc song with very heavy bass & crank it up as loud as you want, to the point where everythings shaking & you still won't get a hint of any strain from the towers










On the 125hz dip, room gain was actually something I was going to play with. I do like my bottom end but like you say I might be able to bring it down a touch, to help out the dip & not notice the reduced gain. I was also curious if reducing the room gain some would increase the very bottom end with freeing up some of ARC's resources (or atleast sound like its increasing the very bottom end as the mid low-bass wouldn't be as strong)


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> My inclination would be to investigate the mechanical connection you are using for HDMI 1. Is it a bad plug that's damaging the socket? Is it the weight of the cable that's levering the socket loose from the PC board?



Thanks Bob. When I received the second unit the first thing I did was purchase 5 XLR interconnects so I would get a solid connection b/w the power amp and the Anthem. Then I made sure that there was sufficient slack for both HDMI connectors, one from the Oppo (1m) and one from the Projector and they were not pulling down in any way or causing a bend. I was very careful when I conencted them (also did this with the first unit), and the HDMI inputs are at the top of the D2v which is great as it's each cable doesn't have to bend that much. What I am going to do when i take out the existing Anthem is cut the current hole in the back of the lowline unit and make it bigger on both sides so that both cables don't bend at all and go in straight. To be honest I've had 2 other units before the Anthem (NAD T-175 and Onyko SR-805) and never had an issue and I've used the same HDMI cable that I always have from the projector plus both units were in the same shelf as the D2v.


As far as I'm concerned both HDMI connections were firm and showed no signs of bending. Thanks for suggesting the manual ARC method, I will try that when I get the 2nd replacement unit.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19428355
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. When I received the second unit the first thing I did was purchase 5 XLR interconnects so I would get a solid connection b/w the power amp and the Anthem. Then I made sure that there was sufficient slack for both HDMI connectors, one from the Oppo (1m) and one from the Projector and they were not pulling down in any way or causing a bend. I was very careful when I conencted them (also did this with the first unit), and the HDMI inputs are at the top of the D2v which is great as it's each cable doesn't have to bend that much. What I am going to do when i take out the existing Anthem is cut the current hole in the back of the lowline unit and make it bigger on both sides so that both cables don't bend at all and go in straight. To be honest I've had 2 other units before the Anthem (NAD T-175 and Onyko SR-805) and never had an issue and I've used the same HDMI cable that I always have from the projector plus both units were in the same shelf as the D2v.
> 
> 
> As far as I'm concerned both HDMI connections were firm and showed no signs of bending. Thanks for suggesting the manual ARC method, I will try that when I get the 2nd replacement unit.



Assuming there really is an external cause to these two failures, the only other thing I can think of is that you have a ground loop which is sending voltage from the projector to the D2v along the cable shield of the HDMI cable and somehow frying that HDMI output. Or it could be going the other way: I.e., that some other device is sending faulty ground garbage into the D2v on a cable shield which is then finding a path back to ground (to complete the circuit and let current flow) via the HDMI cable to the projector -- again frying that HDMI output.


Do you have any signs at all of ground loop problems? Typical symptoms would be hum, even at a very low level, from the speakers, or horizontal interference lines in video.


These are not very likely failure scenarios, but then the odds of getting two failed video boards in a row is also not very likely.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daren_p* /forum/post/19428084
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input Bob. I only have about two spots I can put the sub, the posted chart is actually with the sub in the corner but there's furniture that's ~15" tall , about 2' infront of the sub so that may not be helping things (sealed, front firing). The other spot is closer to the middle of the room, it may have actually not rolled off quite as much (did my origional ARC 2.4 with it in the other position) but it doesn't seem to be night & day difference when comparing charts (ie maybe a db difference). I may switch back to the other spot & try again.
> 
> 
> I wouldn't think the room is too large as its on the small side approx 13x14x8, I would think the sub should pressurize the room but it doesn't appear to be doing so.
> 
> 
> As for running the sub with 2 channel music, I've tried & defently don't get the results I get with just the two towers. While ARC has done a great job at integrating the sub, it still doesn't offer the quality, speed, detail & tone in the bottom end the towers do by themselves. I've switched back & forth & while the sub may offer a db or two more in the lower end, its not worth the trade off in quality & in most music its not even noticeable or only noticeable on certain songs if you switch back & forth. My towers have 4 7" drivers in each cabinet & have never been close to running out of steam, the more you turn them up, the better they sound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not my normal choice of music but you can put on a hiphop/rap etc song with very heavy bass & crank it up as loud as you want, to the point where everythings shaking & you still won't get a hint of any strain from the towers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the 125hz dip, room gain was actually something I was going to play with. I do like my bottom end but like you say I might be able to bring it down a touch, to help out the dip & not notice the reduced gain. I was also curious if reducing the room gain some would increase the very bottom end with freeing up some of ARC's resources (or atleast sound like its increasing the very bottom end as the mid low-bass wouldn't be as strong)



Before you reject using the sub for music, double check that the Polarity and Phase settings are correct for the sub so that you aren't getting phase cancellation through the cross-over region where both the sub and the main speakers are producing the same audio. This is a step you have to do manually. ARC can't do it as it doesn't hear the sub and the mains playing at the same time.


See the post links in the Setup section of the first post of this thread for some guidance.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Do you have any signs at all of ground loop problems? Typical symptoms would be hum, even at a very low level, from the speakers, or horizontal interference lines in video.



Just on a month now I had a electrician install 2 dedicated 20A circuits with filtering via a module on the main power board and that is what the D2v is plugged into as well as my Oppo via a Thor PS10 power center. Now I do have a slight hum from the Thor itself which I've always found odd as my brother who owns the newer version of it doesn't hum. I've taken the Thor out now and I'm using an Ear Science Powerbox (locally made) power board which I know is a very good product refer to link. I have the the one in the pic and the newer one as well:

http://www.carltonaudiovisual.com.au/?q=node/view/282 



I'm going to call Thor and see if they will service or at least have a look at my Thor unit and see if it's that. The sparky said that I would no longer need to run anything into a power board as that is what the filtering module is for on the main board but I do just to be sure. I'm trying to blame all the other things which is normal and I understand what your saying about having 2 faulty Anthems but I've had the NAD plugged into the Thor for ages (before upgrading to the D2v) and never had an issue and if i was getting this power surge via the projector ,then the NAD would have suffered but it didn't. Plus the projector has never missed a beat and shows no horizontal interference lines at all.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daren_p* /forum/post/19428084
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input Bob. I only have about two spots I can put the sub, the posted chart is actually with the sub in the corner but there's furniture that's ~15" tall , about 2' infront of the sub so that may not be helping things (sealed, front firing). The other spot is closer to the middle of the room, it may have actually not rolled off quite as much (did my origional ARC 2.4 with it in the other position) but it doesn't seem to be night & day difference when comparing charts (ie maybe a db difference). I may switch back to the other spot & try again.
> 
> 
> I wouldn't think the room is too large as its on the small side approx 13x14x8, I would think the sub should pressurize the room but it doesn't appear to be doing so.
> 
> 
> As for running the sub with 2 channel music, I've tried & defently don't get the results I get with just the two towers. While ARC has done a great job at integrating the sub, it still doesn't offer the quality, speed, detail & tone in the bottom end the towers do by themselves. I've switched back & forth & while the sub may offer a db or two more in the lower end, its not worth the trade off in quality & in most music its not even noticeable or only noticeable on certain songs if you switch back & forth. My towers have 4 7" drivers in each cabinet & have never been close to running out of steam, the more you turn them up, the better they sound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not my normal choice of music but you can put on a hiphop/rap etc song with very heavy bass & crank it up as loud as you want, to the point where everythings shaking & you still won't get a hint of any strain from the towers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the 125hz dip, room gain was actually something I was going to play with. I do like my bottom end but like you say I might be able to bring it down a touch, to help out the dip & not notice the reduced gain. I was also curious if reducing the room gain some would increase the very bottom end with freeing up some of ARC's resources (or atleast sound like its increasing the very bottom end as the mid low-bass wouldn't be as strong)



You could use the quick measure function to get a look at your sub in the two positions. You need to use manual operation of ARC 3.0 and it's under the tools menu. This will display the response in real time of the sub as you move it around. Once you choose the spot you'll have to do the phase and polarity adjustment. This does change your settings for speaker config so you will have to upload a ARC result after doing this measure.


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19428529
> 
> 
> Just on a month now I had a electrician install 2 dedicated 20A circuits with filtering via a module on the main power board and that is what the D2v is plugged into as well as my Oppo via a Thor PS10 power center. Now I do have a slight hum from the Thor itself which I've always found odd as my brother who owns the newer version of it doesn't hum. I've taken the Thor out now and I'm using an Ear Science Powerbox (locally made) power board which I know is a very good product refer to link. I have the the one in the pic and the newer one as well:
> 
> http://www.carltonaudiovisual.com.au/?q=node/view/282
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to call Thor and see if they will service or at least have a look at my Thor unit and see if it's that. The sparky said that I would no longer need to run anything into a power board as that is what the filtering module is for on the main board but I do just to be sure. I'm trying to blame all the other things which is normal and I understand what your saying about having 2 faulty Anthems but I've had the NAD plugged into the Thor for ages (before upgrading to the D2v) and never had an issue and if i was getting this power surge via the projector ,then the NAD would have suffered but it didn't. Plus the projector has never missed a beat and shows no horizontal interference lines at all.



not sure where the display is plugged in to the A/C

as Bob said it could be a ground loop

if the HDMI output is being fried then it would be between the D2v and the display

you say you had new A/C installed a month ago - is that when the 1st D2v died, or was it before that?

i'm with Bob on this one, it might be 2 defective D2v's, but i suspect a mechanical or electrical issue 1st


mark


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/19427818
> 
> 
> Tom,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tips. I have a computer connected to my DAC with coax in using a hiface. I did check to make sure that the mode was in stereo - I checked just about every menu setting and and no luck.
> 
> *The weird thing is when I put it on AnalogDIR it is perfect, as soon as I change it to AnalogDSP it is super fuzzy like something isn't connected right.*I did run ARC and left all of those settings the same so I will try the menus again.
> 
> 
> This happened to my buddy when he got his and we went through all the menus and found one of the input levels was high and we put it to 0 and it was fixed. But like I said I checked all the levels and they were 0.
> 
> 
> I am going to try running ARC again to see if that helps anything but I don't see how that will. I am at a loss!
> 
> 
> Thanks again Tom!



The only thing different between Analog DSP and AnalogDIR in your setup is ARC.

I think a re-run and/or a new upload of ARC is an excellent idea.

If your system sounded good for a while after your last ARC upload, but later sounded bad in AnalogDSP, then a new upload of ARC may be all that is needed.

If it has sounded bad since your last ARC run, then I would do new measurements and a new upload.

ARC is a software program and software can get corrupted. Its worth a try for sure.

I would also do a new download of ARC from the Anthem website before running a new ARC just to be sure that is uncorrupted.



Tom


----------



## BladeRnR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/19429036
> 
> 
> not sure where the display is plugged in to the A/C
> 
> as Bob said it could be a ground loop
> 
> if the HDMI output is being fried then it would be between the D2v and the display
> 
> you say you had new A/C installed a month ago - is that when the 1st D2v died, or was it before that?
> 
> i'm with Bob on this one, it might be 2 defective D2v's, but i suspect a mechanical or electrical issue 1st
> 
> 
> mark



2 failures in a row and another forum member who related identical issues with the HDMI output after 5 months of operation suggests to me it's a production issue with the HDMI boards. My Brothers electrical work was done after the first Anthem D2V failure then before the 2nd replacement unit.


I wouldn't rule out electrical issues which is why when the third unit arrives:


1. Use a different BD Player. I'll contribute the Marantz UD9004 I use.

2. Use a different projector. This will be hard to source but we'll work something out.

3. Replace the the THOR PS10 with a current version or get the current unit checked for faults.


Multiple defects and bad batches can occur and slip through the QA process. One does not need to look far for examples - Original XBOX 360 and RROD issue? Bad/poor solder of the graphics chip which when heated would disengage from the Motherboard causing an issue. I'm not impugning Anthem's QA practices but soldering robots can have bad days too...


Blade


----------



## Armand07

How good is the videoprocessor in the d2v?

Is it as good as a Lumagen Radiance or Crystalio II?

And if you have a 16:9 image on a 2.35 screen, does it have built-in masking of the sides to make them as black as possible?


----------



## daren_p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19428457
> 
> 
> Before you reject using the sub for music, double check that the Polarity and Phase settings are correct for the sub so that you aren't getting phase cancellation through the cross-over region where both the sub and the main speakers are producing the same audio. This is a step you have to do manually. ARC can't do it as it doesn't hear the sub and the mains playing at the same time.
> 
> 
> See the post links in the Setup section of the first post of this thread for some guidance.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob, I haven't adjusted the phase properly yet. I have read how to do it but I haven't bothered too much with it as I'm still moving things around & I keep forgetting to have someone give me a hand when their free .



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19429028
> 
> 
> You could use the quick measure function to get a look at your sub in the two positions. You need to use manual operation of ARC 3.0 and it's under the tools menu. This will display the response in real time of the sub as you move it around. Once you choose the spot you'll have to do the phase and polarity adjustment. This does change your settings for speaker config so you will have to upload a ARC result after doing this measure.




I have used the quick measure function in V3, its defently a great tool they added. When I play with sub positioning again, I'll defently be using it again.



After looking at some sealed subs online & their response graphs I noticed that some don't give a nice flat response like a ported sub, etc. They seem to give a gradual increase as the frequency goes up. & when you run the sub full range the -3db limit was say 39hz but when you put the crossover on its lowest setting, say 40hz, the -3db limit was under 20hz. So this got me thinking, maybe I should play with mine as well? My internal sub crossover has been disabled but was wondering if maybe I should turn it on & set it lower? Wasn't sure if using the sub crossover & then the setting ARC applies would cause any issues or if it would actually even make a difference because of what ARC does (but maybe worth a try?). I do have a bass test CD so I put on a 20hz tone & did notice output seems to increase slightly if I enable the crossover & put it on its lowest 40hz setting. I also noticed the sub test tone the Anthem produces is at a higher frequency as the output reduces playing the internal test tone with the internal sub crossover on. So I was going to try a quick measure with the internal sub x over on & see if the bottom end is any better.


----------



## myc52002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daren_p* /forum/post/19427820
> 
> 
> What are everyones thoughts on the charts? I know my sub is an issue, as it rolls off much to quickly but as the system is currently in a bedroom, I don't have alot of choice on sub size & placement (SVS SB-12 plus).



You might try setting the phase on the sub to 180 and / or reversing the polarity on the mains. Your fronts have good low end response and could be working against the sub at the low frequency because they are out of phase or polarity or both. Your charts looked like mine until I discovered that problem in my setup. Making those adjustments corrected the problem. I also had an SVS unit and that sub should perform quite well in that room unless it is huge.


I see Bob beat me to the post


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19426446
> 
> 
> Very cool to see the folks at Anthem respond to issues in real time on this forum. Thanks for the confidence booster Nick as I am about to pull the trigger on one of your units.



Actually I'm just visiting to repeat my occasional public service announcement: When in need of factory service, contact the factory.


---------------------


"Problem with our video board supplier" sounds like another rumour in the making. The boards are supplied by the surface-mount machine that's directly below my office and lately there's been one return. Little can be predicted from something that occurred once in a row whereas bad connection, be it external or internal, accounts for 90% of hardware problems. The distributor who has Simon's first unit will soon check connection between video board and HDMI 1 output - there's enough reason to suspect its involvement, not to imply there's enough reason to suspect how it possibly got that way. That would be the next step.


---------------------


Long time readers might remember the early D2 days when according to some posters half the problems were caused by heat and rest by handshakes, ours and not possibly theirs. In hindsight what did it amount to when there was no handshake analyzer in the hand that did the finger pointing? When a problem arises, it's the observations that count and the more detailed they are when communicated to us, the quicker the solution. This is why we're likely to ask questions before coming up with answers.


----------------------


If DSP mode sounds distorted whereas DIR does not, the first thing to check is analog input level - details are in manual section 3.8. Reduction is necessary when source voltage exceeds 2Vrms, to prevent digital converter overload.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BladeRnR;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 2. Use a different projector. This will be hard to source but we'll work something out.



Happy to bring over my unused up Epson TW1000










Cheers


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19427841
> 
> 
> Jeff, it sounds to me like you have a hardware failure in the circuit path that digitizes that 2-Channel balanced input. Try this: Get some simple RCA to XLR adapters and run RCA from your player through those into the XLR inputs on the Anthem. Does it still sound screwed up? If so then that XLR input needs service.
> 
> 
> Now be aware that XLR, by design, has a different voltage (volume) level from RCA. So you may need to adjust the analog audio input level (in Setup menu) for the 2-Channel input if your source is putting out different voltage from what it expects. But the fact that things sound OK using Analog-Direct suggests that isn't the problem.
> 
> --Bob



You need to set the analog level to a negative number. You are clipping the Anthem DAC's. Using the balanced input, I need to set the level to -8 to avoid clipping.


I am using a PS Audio DLIII DAC with my Anthem D2.


----------



## studlygoorite

I have had HDMI hanshake issues the entire time I've owned my D2v and have let it be known that I was not happy. Right now my room is being redone, for acoustic upgrade, and I have had to move into a smaller room with a 47" Plasma instead of my 142" screen and projector. I am now running a 3 foot HDMI from my D2v to the plasma and am having no issues at all. Tonight I will switch the 3' HDMI for my 50' that I was using and see if the issues come back. If they do not then I would have to blame my Epson 6500 projector for the handshake problems, I will keep you posted.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19431578
> 
> 
> I have had HDMI hanshake issues the entire time I've owned my D2v and have let it be known that I was not happy. Right now my room is being redone, for acoustic upgrade, and I have had to move into a smaller room with a 47" Plasma instead of my 142" screen and projector. I am now running a 3 foot HDMI from my D2v to the plasma and am having no issues at all. Tonight I will switch the 3' HDMI for my 50' that I was using and see if the issues come back. If they do not then I would have to blame my Epson 6500 projector for the handshake problems, I will keep you posted.
> 
> 
> John



Another test would be to try 480p (not 480i) on the 50' cable to the projector, with 8 bit set in Setup > Video Output. That's the simplest HDMI signal for the cable to handle.


If that seems to be working, then try 1080i to the projector on that cable. If 1080i works but 1080p doesn't then it definitely looks like a cabling problem.


Now some "cabling" problems are in fact due to the device at one end or the other not fully implementing the dynamic signal EQ that allows such long HDMI cable runs for high bandwidth signals. This is an HDMI chip hardware design issue in the device, so not something easily fixed.


[For example, HDMI V1.3 allowed higher bandwidth signals -- e.g., "Deep Color" 1080p -- but the first generation of HDMI V1.3 chips did not implement the additional sophistication in their signal EQ to allow that to work well over longer or marginal cables.]


But switching to a "better" HDMI cable (or "shorter" if that's possible) may reduce the problem so the lack of full, dynamic, signal EQ in the HDMI chip may no longer cause a problem.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19431578
> 
> 
> I have had HDMI hanshake issues the entire time I've owned my D2v and have let it be known that I was not happy. Right now my room is being redone, for acoustic upgrade, and I have had to move into a smaller room with a 47" Plasma instead of my 142" screen and projector. I am now running a 3 foot HDMI from my D2v to the plasma and am having no issues at all. Tonight I will switch the 3' HDMI for my 50' that I was using and see if the issues come back. If they do not then I would have to blame my Epson 6500 projector for the handshake problems, I will keep you posted.
> 
> 
> John



Apparently identical effect does not mean identical cause.


If the plasma accepts deep colour whereas the projector does not, you might still get no picture... cable bandwidth issue. In such a case change D2v video outptu to 8-bit or 10-bit (v2.10 or later).


It doesn't end there either - even with 8-bit there's a difference: TV accepts sound whereas projector does not. That's more data to go through the cable.


And if audio doesn't push bandwidth over the fence *then* you can conclude it's the projector, but you'd have no way of knowing without cable tester and/or handshake analyzer.


So:


Connect entire system to test it before installing - jumping to conclusion can easily lead to trying to fix the wrong problem (which is futile).


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Come to think of it if projector starts working when HDMI audio out is turned off in the source, it may be a handshake issue. I've heard of this happening (audio-out can't be disabled in D2v, maybe some day) but don't know the cause.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Happy to bring over my unused up Epson TW1000





> Quote:
> Use a different BD Player. I'll contribute the Marantz UD9004 I use.
> 
> 2. Use a different projector. This will be hard to source but we'll work something out



Wow thanks for the kind offers. I actually called Thor Technologies yesterday and had a long talk with a guy about the issues. In the years since the release of the PS 10 they have had 2 returns (from country people) and both units were perfect on their bench. The likely hood of it being the PS10 is remote but I've taken it out and put my Powerbox board in instead. He also said the only difference b/w my unit and the updated one is the dimmer switch and the 220v option that's it nothing else and not worth upgrading to. Also my 15m HDMI cable from Selby arrived so will use that instead of my current one just need to get an installer to put in it in. As for the projector well I'm 99.9% set on buying the Epson TW-3600 or the TW-3500 (comes with free globe at the moment for $2400), and the TW-3600 can be had for approx $2000 here in Australia (Harvey Norman). The projector is the only thing that hasn't been upgraded in my system plus after talking to the guy at Thor I'm getting one of these for my Krell TAS 5 channel amp:

http://thortechnologies.com.au/produ...m90-hardwired/ 


This now comes standard in 16amp and my Krell is running on a 15amp power point at the moment but isn't filtered as only the other 2 power points 20A (both with 2 insert points) are filtered via the Clipsal module on the main board. The contact at Thor also said that the filter module (ON MAIN POWER BOARD) doesn't protect agianst noise or spikes that may come from fridges and vacume cleaners etc, also it's best to still use power boards with any equipment that I'm using for my HT. He highly recommended that I continue to use the PS10 for my D2v and Oppo and finds it hard to believe that the PS10 is the cause of my issues I'm having. This exercise is going to cost me but I want to be 100% sure (if that's possible) that another D2v doesn't becomes unusable. I can only try and hope that the measures that I'm implementing will be worthwhile.


Thanks again for the offers guys appreciate it.


----------



## victor tubeman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19432098
> 
> 
> Wow thanks for the kind offers. I actually called Thor Technologies yesterday and had a long talk with a guy about the issues. In the years since the release of the PS 10 they have had 2 returns (from country people) and both units were perfect on their bench. The likely hood of it being the PS10 is remote but I've taken it out and put my Powerbox board in instead. He also said the only difference b/w my unit and the updated one is the dimmer switch and the 220v option that's it nothing else and not worth upgrading to. Also my 15m HDMI cable from Selby arrived so will use that instead of my current one just need to get an installer to put in it in. As for the projector well I'm 99.9% set on buying the Epson TW-3600 or the TW-3500 (comes with free globe at the moment for $2400), and the TW-3600 can be had for approx $2000 here in Australia (Harvey Norman). The projector is the only thing that hasn't been upgraded in my system plus after talking to the guy at Thor I'm getting one of these for my Krell TAS 5 channel amp
> 
> 
> http://thortechnologies.com.au/produ...m90-hardwired/
> 
> 
> This now comes standard in 16amp and my Krell is running on a 15amp power point at the moment but isn't filtered as only the other 2 power points 20A (both with 2 insert points) are filtered via the Clipsal module on the main board. The contact at Thor also said that the filter module (ON MAIN POWER BOARD) doesn't protect agianst noise or spikes that may come from fridges and vacume cleaners etc, also it's best to still use power boards with any equipment that I'm using for my HT. He highly recommended that I continue to use the PS10 for my D2v and Oppo and finds it hard to believe that the PS10 is the cause of my issues I'm having. This exercise is going to cost me but I want to be 100% sure (if that's possible) that another D2v doesn't becomes unusable. I can only try and hope that the measures that I'm implementing will be worthwhile.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the offers guys appreciate it.




Hi,



Surge protection etc is a good idea on av gear,amps low powered will usually will be ok.On the krell when off and unplugged and then plugged in and put into standby it will trip most surge gear as it fills CAPS.In my case it sets off, ups and monster surge gear for video gear.Once in standby mode and off it should be ok.(I have the same amp krell too).


Cheers Victor.


----------



## randman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Orup70*
I bought an Philips Pronto TSU9400 remote control and an Philips RFX9600 serial extender late this summer that I haven't had time to program yet.


Unfortunately Philips discontinued all remote control business just a week ago so it was not my best investment so far







. But I'm a heavy "zapper" when watching TV and I need physical buttons to be able to zap without looking at the remote. But otherwise the Irule looks very nice. I didn't know about iRule when I bought the Philips. Still, the Pronto TSU9400 is a very nice remote and I can still program it with the existing software.


I will use the iPad with Apple's own Remove app which is very nice for controlling music playback from iTunes. Or if I magically get a lot of spare time available I may program my own iTunes remote controller in JavaScript on the Pronto.








Check out ProntoTunes for the TSU9400. It gives a nice interface for AppleTV for seeing and selecting iTunes or Apple TV from the Pronto.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> .Once in standby mode and off it should be ok.(I have the same amp krell too)



Thanks for that. So when yours is in standby do you hear any kind of low hum? Also what do think of the Thor protection device just for the Krell?


----------



## jb5200




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19430490
> 
> 
> You need to set the analog level to a negative number. You are clipping the Anthem DAC's. Using the balanced input, I need to set the level to -8 to avoid clipping.
> 
> 
> I am using a PS Audio DLIII DAC with my Anthem D2.



Thanks mvppsu - Is it ironic that I'm also using a DLIII?


Well, here's what I found:


I lowered the analog level to a -8 and yes it did get rid of the fuzzieness but it sounded horrible - very hard, sharp, no bass impact or weight. I obviously had to turn the volume waaay up to get it back to normal listening level. I also lowered the noise level much lower and that seemed to help but it still isn't where it needs to be.


I have the D1 also connected RCA as well in the CD and when I switch to CD it is soooo good - powerful, clean, tight, sweet highs, etc. The clarity just isn't there like it is with XLR.


I am just stumped - it might be time to call the dealer which is such a pain - would rather have a finger amputated w/o anesthetic. They are horrible to deal with. It just doesn't make sense to me why I would need to lower the analog levels and my buddy who has the exact same setup (diff. DAC) has all of his set at 0 and his works perfectly. And why don't I have to lower the levels when I use RCA analog in (voltage differences)?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19431578
> 
> 
> I have had HDMI hanshake issues the entire time I've owned my D2v and have let it be known that I was not happy. Right now my room is being redone, for acoustic upgrade, and I have had to move into a smaller room with a 47" Plasma instead of my 142" screen and projector. I am now running a 3 foot HDMI from my D2v to the plasma and am having no issues at all. Tonight I will switch the 3' HDMI for my 50' that I was using and see if the issues come back. If they do not then I would have to blame my Epson 6500 projector for the handshake problems, I will keep you posted.
> 
> 
> John




Note that I had already tried all suggestions, 8 bit and 1080i instead of 1080p output plus others and the problems persisted. I have put my 50' Monster HDMI cable back into the equation and my handshakes are at least twice as long, almost as bad with the projector in the set up. So without a cable tester or handshake analyzer it looks like the 50' cable is part at fault and the projector only adds to the problem. One more note that with my old Denon 3808 I had no problems with the same 50' cable and the same projector. Then again, my Denon didn't sound this good.










John


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

for jb5200 - In case "hidden" DSP settings such as nonzero Fronts Bass are at play, save user settings, load defaults, load user settings. This would clear them without affecting menu settings. Also use the on-screen meter in menu 8 to help find the right analog-in level setting.


If you need further assistance please contact tech support.


---------------------


for studlygoorite - In case it hasn't been considered or applied and it's not too late, you might want to use conduit for AV cabling - this will make future cable swaps a lot easier than fishing behind finished walls. 50 feet of straight copper for HDMI is tricky - at least make sure it's 23-gauge. For Category II (12-bit 1080p60 bandwidth required) the official limit is 25 feet.


As for unofficial limts:


At the factory's theater the D2v and LTX 500 have no hiccups with a 23-gauge 20 metre cable (over 60 feet). This was surprising and wouldn't you know it, when I tried to set up a second identical system it didn't work unless resolution was lowered. No sources were involved yet. The 20m cables were bought at the same time so I'm guessing they came from the same roll. Luckily the second system needed only 40 feet and when the shorter cable arrived everything worked like magic. You can never be sure about what'll happen till you try it.


----------



## Armand07




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Armand07* /forum/post/19429310
> 
> 
> How good is the videoprocessor in the d2v?
> 
> Is it as good as a Lumagen Radiance or Crystalio II?
> 
> And if you have a 16:9 image on a 2.35 screen, does it have built-in masking of the sides to make them as black as possible?



I think I haven´t got any answers for my questions? Anyone?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

D2v uses the latest VXP processor - that's one basis for comparing against others.


Output frame is always 16:9 unless output is set to 480/576 in which case it is 4:3.


Are you using a fixed lens or movable?


If movable, there light reflected by the non-16:9 part of the screen is ambient not direct from projector, so to minimize it the choices are physical masking or a special black screen such as SI Black Diamond.


If fixed, which means the projector will be in horizontal squeeze mode for non-2.4:1 movies, the light projected at the sides varies according to the projector's technology, for example LCD cannot turn light off completely while others can. There is still the ambient light issue to deal with, as with moving lens.


----------



## Armand07

I have fixed lens so I use my Crystalio II vp to stretch 2.35 movies.

The Crystalio has some kind of built in masking for making the sides as dark as possible with 16:9 material.

If I would get an Anthem D2v I was wondering if this had the same functionality. Then I could sell my CII and use the money to invest in the D2v.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Armand07* /forum/post/19434751
> 
> 
> The Crystalio has some kind of built in masking for making the sides as dark as possible with 16:9 material.
> 
> If I would get an Anthem D2v I was wondering if this had the same functionality. Then I could sell my CII and use the money to invest in the D2v.



It sounds like you are referring to the pillar brightness adjustment which is there as part of VXP with 10 steps from black to light gray. Default is black.


It is not a mask - its purpose is to let the user select how much light to add at the sides when image is 4:3 to prevent "image retention", more commonly known as burn-in (severity depends on the display type).


For further info please contact tech support - I have to return to my regularly scheduled work day.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Armand07* /forum/post/19429310
> 
> 
> How good is the videoprocessor in the d2v?
> 
> Is it as good as a Lumagen Radiance or Crystalio II?
> 
> And if you have a 16:9 image on a 2.35 screen, does it have built-in masking of the sides to make them as black as possible?



If you use a "normal" lens (no anamorphic widening), the 16:9 content will not use the sides of a 2.35 screen at all, and so any light leak you are seeing over there can't be fixed by anything the projector or a video processor can do. I.e., no pixels are being displayed over there. That portion of the screen is reflecting ambient light in the room, including light reflected back onto the screen from the walls, etc., due to the active portion of the image.


If you use an "anamorphic" lens which optically widens a 16:9 image left to right so that it fills a 2.35 screen, then every portion of the screen is illuminated directly by the projector. When playing 2.35 content, you can apply a uniform vertical stretch in the D2v so that the content fills the 16:9 output frame sent to the projector -- i.e., no wasted pixels just holding letter box bars. Now this distorts the image: Circles now look like tall ovals. But the anamorphic lens optically widens that 16:9 input frame to the 2.35 image it throws to the screen so things now look correct again (circles look like circles, and the image fills the 2.35 screen top to bottom and left to right). You do the vertical stretch in the D2v using a Custom Crop and Anamorphic Scaling. See the "Fun With Custom Cropping and Scaling" post links in the first post of this thread for details. When playing 2.35 content this way to your 2.35 screen there are no unused areas of the screen.


The problem comes if you play regular 16:9 content using that same "anamorphic" lens. If you leave the Custom Crop in place, the top and bottom of the image will be discarded -- i.e., the portions that used to be the letter box bars when you were watching 2.35 content. The image will fill your screen left to right and top to bottom, and it won't be distorted (circles look like circles), but you can't see the top and bottom portions of the original 16:9 content frame.


If you turn OFF the custom crop, but still leave your anamorphic lens in place, the image will fill your screen top to bottom and left to right, and you won't lose any portions of the image, but the anamorphic lens will stretch the image left to right (which is why it fills the 2.35 screen left to right) and so the image is distorted (circles now look like wide ovals).


The "correct" solution is to swap out your anamorphic lens with a normal lens. You'll now see the 16:9 content filling your screen top to bottom, and without distortion, but a portion of either side of your 2.35 screen will be unused. I.e., back to the first case above. Again, done this way the projector is not illuminating the sides of the screen so any light you see off of that is ambient light and there is nothing the projector or any video processor can do to alter that.


An alternative, "less correct" solution is to leave the anamorphic lens in place and apply a "squeeze" to the 16:9 content so that it doesn't use a portion on either side of the 16:9 output frame being sent to the projector. This distorts the image of course: Circles now look like tall ovals. But your anamorphic lens now optically widens that and so you again see an undistorted 16:9 image that fills your screen from top to bottom and leaves a portion of the 2.35 screen unused on either side.


However in this "squeeze" case, the left and right sides of the screen *ARE* being directly illuminated by the projector. I.e., there are actually pixels being thrown by the projector to those sides.


Now when the 16:9 content is squeezed this way, the unused portion of the 16:9 image frame on either side is filled with black pillar box bars. The pixel values being sent to the projector in those bars on either side are indistinguishable from "black". If the projector's black levels are not dark enough for your taste then you will see dark gray in the unused portions on either side of the screen but there is nothing that ANY video processor can do to alter that. It can't send "negative" pixels to the projector that will force the projector to magically throw less light for those pixels than its inherent black level output limit. Some projector technologies are worse than others in terms of how little light they throw for "black" pixels, but again if your projector, properly set up, still throws dark gray instead of black for a "black" pixel, there's nothing any video processor can do to correct that.


Folks use curtains that can be partially drawn on either side to help in such cases. Curtains are also used to cut down on ambient light reflection in unused portions of the screen.


But there's yet another problem with this "squeezed" approach to 16:9 content. When you squeeze the 16:9 content, each line across the image has to fit into fewer pixels! Why? Because you are using the pixels on the left and right of the output frame to hold your pillar box bars that result from the squeeze. The NUMBER of pixels on each output line doesn't change, it's just that you are now wasting a bunch of them to hold black pillar box bar pixels.


And that means you are discarding horizontal resolution. A lot. And once discarded there's no way to get it back. The anamorphic lens will optically widen the image back to a 16:9 shape, but the horizontal resolution within that shape can't be restored that way or any other way.


And so, Anthem has chosen to NOT OFFER a 16:9 "squeeze" option in their video processor.


It sounds like you are saying you are using just such a "squeeze" option in your CrystalIO. So the short answer to your question is that the Anthem will not do that. By design. But understand that every time you watch 16:9 content using such a "squeeze" option along with your anamorphic lens you are throwing away image quality. And also understand that despite how they might have written it up, there's nothing the CrystalIO can do in the black pillar box bars created as part of that "squeeze" which will make your display throw anything blacker than its own, inherent black level limit for those pillar box bar pixels.


My recommendation is that you should investigate one of the lens options that makes it easy for you to shift between an anamorphic and a normal lens when you want to view 16:9 content on your 2.35 screen and stop using the "squeeze" option. If even with that you have too much ambient light reflection from the unused sides of the screen, consider curtains that can be partially drawn to cover the unused portions on either side of the screen.

--Bob


----------



## Armand07

Thank you for an excellent answer!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Armand07* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you for an excellent answer!



Vintage Bob









John


----------



## victor tubeman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19433754
> 
> 
> Thanks for that. So when yours is in standby do you hear any kind of low hum? Also what do think of the Thor protection device just for the Krell?



In standby and not on(no blue glow) no hum,when on with single ended cables some hum,i use balanced and no hum.(Every krell amp in my system has had hum from amp and speakers,better quality cables help,balanced cables help or fixed problem in my system and new 20amp 240v for this amp only helped too.)


Check with thor as I think the thor will cut power to the krell when amp is off and you switch rear breaker on.(too much current draw,for a few milli seconds,active tracking will cut power).The result is you may not be able to turn amp on.Even with HT and powering 5 low eff speakers it may activate?

For HT I use amp only for centre only,so it,s not really using much power.


Victor.


----------



## dschamis

iRule question - what settings do I need on the D2 to be able to feed it commands from the GC-100 gateway via RS-232?


I have set up the iRule app with the 'Anthem Main' commands from the device database and set the gateway to transmit via the RS-232 port to the Anthem. I have connected a standard M/F serial cable from the GC-100 to the D2.


As far as I can tell the D2 is unresponsive to commands - what am I missing?


David


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Check with thor as I think the thor will cut power to the krell when amp is off and you switch rear breaker on.(too much current draw,for a few milli seconds,active tracking will cut power).The result is you may not be able to turn amp on.Even with HT and powering 5 low eff speakers it may activate?



Got a chance to call Thor Tech and asked the question and the guy said it allows for a variance of 50% so it wont prevent the amp from receiving power and the active tracking wont interupt the supply and said it was perfect for this application. Needs to be installed by a certified electrician.


----------



## steven2583

I have a question about room gain. I'm using arc 3.0. I added acoustic treatments to my room. I'm not totally done but it's going to take me a few weeks to build the rest so I decided to run ARC again. Watching movies and tend to sit in my sweet spot. I took most of my measurments around there. About 23 feet back from the front speakers and 15 feet from the surround speakers. I get a room gain of 3.945749 for movie mode. In music mode I use to get a gain of 0.258642. Front speakers only with sub. I make one measurement in my sweet spot. The other four measurements I make about 6 feet behind the sweet spot about standing ear height. Since I walk around about 50% of the time doing stuff. I use to get a room gain around the 3.94 number. Any reason why it would be so different from previous measurements? Should I measure again?


By the way as I add acoustic paneling and two bass panel traps I notice that the sound of on and off are much closer then before but still quite different. ARC brings out the midrange and mid bass and sounds smoother. But the graphs are really not that much different then before. I expected a change in the graphs.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> iRule question - what settings do I need on the D2 to be able to feed it commands from the GC-100 gateway via RS-232?
> 
> 
> I have set up the iRule app with the 'Anthem Main' commands from the device database and set the gateway to transmit via the RS-232 port to the Anthem. I have connected a standard M/F serial cable from the GC-100 to the D2.
> 
> 
> As far as I can tell the D2 is unresponsive to commands - what am I missing?
> 
> 
> David



David I posted the answer to your question in the Irule forum.



Don


----------



## 600M_Home

Just wondering if anyone out there has heard of any supply issues with the D2v. I ordered one (rack mount version) over 3 months ago(going on 4) and still luck. I have traded emails with Anthem support as well as my local dealer and all they say is they are still on B/O? Hope it's not a parts supply issue like the BPD-83.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *600M_Home* /forum/post/19439450
> 
> 
> Just wondering if anyone out there has heard of any supply issues with the D2v. I ordered one (rack mount version) over 3 months ago(going on 4) and still luck. I have traded emails with Anthem support as well as my local dealer and all they say is they are still on B/O? Hope it's not a parts supply issue like the BPD-83.



In the past, Anthem has done production in batches rather than making all products in parallel. For example a run of D2vs and then a run of AVM 50vs. I suspect your timing was such that you got delayed by the batch focus on getting the new MRX receivers out the door. Now that they are shipping, things should trend back towards shorter lead times on the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583* /forum/post/19439063
> 
> 
> I have a question about room gain. I'm using arc 3.0. I added acoustic treatments to my room. I'm not totally done but it's going to take me a few weeks to build the rest so I decided to run ARC again. Watching movies and tend to sit in my sweet spot. I took most of my measurments around there. About 23 feet back from the front speakers and 15 feet from the surround speakers. I get a room gain of 3.945749 for movie mode. In music mode I use to get a gain of 0.258642. Front speakers only with sub. I make one measurement in my sweet spot. The other four measurements I make about 6 feet behind the sweet spot about standing ear height. Since I walk around about 50% of the time doing stuff. I use to get a room gain around the 3.94 number. Any reason why it would be so different from previous measurements? Should I measure again?
> 
> 
> By the way as I add acoustic paneling and two bass panel traps I notice that the sound of on and off are much closer then before but still quite different. ARC brings out the midrange and mid bass and sounds smoother. But the graphs are really not that much different then before. I expected a change in the graphs.



Post your charts for Movie and Music as well as the Targets window.


ARC's analysis of the Room Gain in your room is based on what it hears from all the speakers, so it might get a different answer with the fewer speakers in your Music setup, but still this appears to be a bigger difference than I would expect.

--Bob


----------



## steven2583

Here are the charts. On the target the fronts ARC originally said 60. Surrounds said 90. I'm playing with the sub rolloff and 1st order.


It does sound good and switching between music and movie there isn't much difference.


What usually happens when you increase the room gain? How should the sound change.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *steven2583* 
Here are the charts. On the target the fronts ARC originally said 60. Surrounds said 90. I'm playing with the sub rolloff and 1st order.


It does sound good and switching between music and movie there isn't much difference.


What usually happens when you increase the room gain? How should the sound change.
You can use the View menu to see the Music charts so you can grab them and post them.


Assuming the fronts measured the same in your Music configuration, it looks like the Measured dip in the fronts between 100 and 500 Hz is what's making ARC think you have little or no Room Gain for Music. With the Surrounds as well in Movie, ARC sees a more normal room response.


You can add some Room Gain for Music if you'd like -- perhaps raise it to 2dB.


Room Gain will show as the shallow hump in the Targets curves in the vicinity of the crossovers and the audible result is just what you would expect from such a shallow hump. ARC doesn't attempt to impose a "correct" Room Gain. Rather it tries to Measure the inherent Room Gain of your room and preserve it even as it is eliminating other room response characteristics.


Movie mixers expect home theaters to have a modest amount of Room Gain. Music mixers have no such consensus but the general impression is that they expect a dB or so less of Room Gain than Movie mixer. Typical Room Gain values for home theaters will be in the 2-4dB range unless you have a big room or extensive acoustic treatments in which case you'll have essentially no Room Gain.

--Bob


----------



## steven2583

Didn't realize there was a music view.


In the menu setting of the D2v it has Music, Movie, Auto-L. What's Auto L?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583* /forum/post/19441254
> 
> 
> Didn't realize there was a music view.
> 
> 
> In the menu setting of the D2v it has Music, Movie, Auto-L. What's Auto L?



Auto LFE picks between Movie or Music configuration based on whether an LFE channel is present -- i.e., if you are using the same player for 5.1 DVD and 2.0 CD playback. Note that the question is not whether there is content on the LFE channel. If it is present in the input, but silent, the Movie configuration will be used anyway. Also note that if you play a stereo movie track then your Music configuration will get used, meaning you can't use, e.g., PLIIx surround processing to generate audio for your surround speakers since they aren't included in your Music configuration.


The dip in the fronts seems a bit more pronounced in your Music Measurements. You may not be able to raise Room Gain and still get full correction through that dip. It would be worth exploring why LF/RF are responding that way.


Sometimes repositioning is the solution, such as moving them a foot or so further out from the wall behind them.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *600M_Home* /forum/post/19439450
> 
> 
> Just wondering if anyone out there has heard of any supply issues with the D2v. I ordered one (rack mount version) over 3 months ago(going on 4) and still luck. I have traded emails with Anthem support as well as my local dealer and all they say is they are still on B/O? Hope it's not a parts supply issue like the BPD-83.



Interesting. Yeah, I can understand why you would be upset. waiting 4 to 6 weeks is one thing.

Over 3 months I consider too long. If it because how they do their productions runs they should reconsider how they do it. Being out of stock for over 3 months just is not kosher. Hope they clear up your back order soon 600M.

Good Luck


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/19442492
> 
> 
> Interesting. Yeah, I can understand why you would be upset. waiting 4 to 6 weeks is one thing.
> 
> Over 3 months I consider too long. If it because how they do their productions runs they should reconsider how they do it. Being out of stock for over 3 months just is not kosher. Hope they clear up your back order soon 600M.
> 
> Good Luck



We've also had cases reported here where the dealer simply never placed the order because he was told the product was on back-order. When stock becomes available, the orders are shipped out in the order placed, so if you are not already in the queue that adds to the delay.


(Warranty replacements always jump to the front of the queue.)


We've had 3 month lead times reported before with both the D2 and the D2v. "Normal" lead time is more like 4-6 weeks.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

I'm Anthemless for this weekend as the place that supplies the units is testing a new one thoroughly before giving it to me which I fully support and agree with. They want to run it in and reach it's optimal temp then turn off and then on in the morning, in case it's a cold start issue. In the mean time I will see if I can pick up a Epson TW-3500 or 3600 projector and have that and the new 15m HDMI cable installed. My holidays aren't for another 2 weeks but want to have everything installed before taking delivery on the D2v to rule everything else out.


----------



## steven2583

I'm very limited in my speaker placement. I have an entertainment unit with a RPTV inbetween the speakers. Left speaker is about 1 foot from the side wall and the right is about 3 feet away. From the back wall they are aound 18" from the back of the speaker. I have two panel bass traps behind each speaker. I'm soon to put acoustic panels on the ceiling hopefully that will help reduce the drop between 100 and 500.


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:


I plan to re-arrange my dual sub setup from the front two corners they are placed now to one in the front center and othe other in the rear center, behind the listening position. The rear is 6 feet behind me and the front is 14 feet from me. What distance do I enter in the Anthem menu?


Also I'm concerned that the rear sub will sound louder than the front even tho both are individually calibrated to about 72-73dB for a combined 75 dB solution. How can I make sure both sound equally loud from my listening position?


Thanks,

David


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19444225
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I plan to re-arrange my dual sub setup from the front two corners they are placed now to one in the front center and othe other in the rear center, behind the listening position. The rear is 6 feet behind me and the front is 14 feet from me. What distance do I enter in the Anthem menu?
> 
> 
> Also I'm concerned that the rear sub will sound louder than the front even tho both are individually calibrated to about 72-73dB for a combined 75 dB solution. How can I make sure both sound equally loud from my listening position?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



When I did the same sub configuration, I took the average of both sub's distances and it your case it should be 10 ft.

To have a 72dB loudness relative your listening position, the rear sub will surely be lower in volume than the front sub. You have to measure individually for each sub and get 72dB each at your sweet spot. The combined output will be close to 75dB. As long as you have a crossover at 80 or lower, you will not localize the subs.


Alvin


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19444355
> 
> 
> When I did the same sub configuration, I took the average of both sub's distances and it your case it should be 10 ft.
> 
> To have a 72dB loudness relative your listening position, the rear sub will surely be lower in volume than the front sub. You have to measure individually for each sub and get 72dB each at your sweet spot. The combined output will be close to 75dB. As long as you have a crossover at 80 or lower, you will not localize the subs.
> 
> 
> Alvin



Thanks abc999 but I'm confused somewhat







. If I set each sub to 72dB at my listening position, won't the rear sub sound louder than the front one since i'm closer to it? Or as long as I measure the same SPL level from both subs, they'll play at the same loudness level from my listening position?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19444394
> 
> 
> Thanks abc999 but I'm confused somewhat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If I set each sub to 72dB at my listening position, won't the rear sub sound louder than the front one since i'm closer to it? Or as long as I measure the same SPL level from both subs, they'll play at the same loudness level from my listening position?



You should get 72dB from where your primary seat is from each sub. If you have the same sub model, you will notice that the sub trim for the rear sub would be less than the front as front sub would need more gain to attain 72dB from your prime seat. Each sub should then sound the same(loudness)and summing both would yield 75dB or so.


----------



## PaulF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19427783
> 
> 
> It's less restrictive than that. The correct statement is that the audio signal can not be on HDMI if you want to mix distinct audio/video sources.
> 
> 
> So for example you can combine an HDMI video signal from one source device with an optical digital audio signal from some other source device.
> 
> 
> But you can't combine an HDMI audio signal with video coming in on anything other than that very same HDMI cable.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the clarifications Bob. This should work perfectly for what I had in mind -- video from the SAT receiver while audio comes from blu-ray player or perhaps FM tuner.


On a separate note. Is there any way to tie the RS-232 port into a more automated control approach? I believe some people are using RS-232 to USB converters. Can this be taken one step further using an RS-232 to Ethernet converter?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19444406
> 
> 
> You should get 72dB from where your primary seat is from each sub. If you have the same sub model, you will notice that the sub trim for the rear sub would be less than the front as front sub would need more gain to attain 72dB from your prime seat. Each sub should then sound the same(loudness)and summing both would yield 75dB or so.



Cool ...makes sense now. How did you like the sound of the front-rear subwoofer arrangement as opposed to thestandard front left-ritght arrangement?


Thanks (and what a night owl you are







)


David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19444225
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I plan to re-arrange my dual sub setup from the front two corners they are placed now to one in the front center and othe other in the rear center, behind the listening position. The rear is 6 feet behind me and the front is 14 feet from me. What distance do I enter in the Anthem menu?
> 
> 
> Also I'm concerned that the rear sub will sound louder than the front even tho both are individually calibrated to about 72-73dB for a combined 75 dB solution. How can I make sure both sound equally loud from my listening position?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



As Alvin says, use the average distance of the two subs -- 10 feet in your case.


The speaker distance stuff has two important roles to play. First for the mains it makes sure that sounds placed between speakers in the sound field actually appear to come from the intended locations. Errors in speaker distance will shift the sounds towards either side of the intended location. Now for bass, that's not an issue because bass works by pressurizing the entire room -- i.e., bass sounds appear to "come from everywhere". So there is no localization issue to worry about.


But there's another important result of the time delay that speaker distances represent and that is how the sub phase matches against the main speakers.


So be sure you re-adjust the Polarity/Phase for each of your two subs *AFTER* you enter the new, 10 foot distance setting.


See the post links in the first post of this thread for guidance on adjusting sub phase, but the short version is that after you set distance and separately adjust sub volume (one sub powered at a time) you then also separately adjust Polarity and Phase. The typical approach is to match each sub independently to the Left Front speaker (acting as a surrogate for all your main speakers).


Once again, you power one sub at a time and adjust it. When each sub is in Phase with Left Front then they are also in Phase with each other in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies. But since you have your subs on opposite sides of the room you also have to be concerned about their phase relationship AWAY from the crossover frequencies -- and that's what the Polarity setting does.


The rule of thumb would be to use normal polarity for your sub in the front of the room and inverse polarity for your sub in the rear of the room (since its cone is facing the opposite direction).


Note that you must use controls on each sub to set this. You can't use the control in the Anthem since it affects both sub outputs equally.


So set distance, volume and polarity and then adjust phase for each sub independently against Left Front.


Then Measure for ARC (with both subs powered on of course).


If you find a problem in the combined bass that ARC hears, it may be due to your Polarity setting. ARC hears both subs playing at the same time so it will hear cancellation due to incorrect Polarity. It may be that the design of your subs is such that the rule of thumb doesn't apply. So simply reverse the polarity for JUST ONE of the two subs and then re-adjust the Phase for just that sub. Then Measure for ARC again and see if things look better.


You can use Quick Measure in ARC to quickly see how changes in the Polarity setting on a sub are affecting the combined bass that ARC hears from the set of subs playing together. But keep in mind that inverting Polarity and swinging Phase around 180 degrees are not the same thing since Phase operates only in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies, whereas inverting Polarity affects all frequencies equally. So figure out the best Phase setting (against the LF speaker) for each Polarity for each sub and then if you experiment with inverting Polarity on a sub also swing the Phase around to the setting you found worked best matching that sub against LF for that choice of Polarity.


If your subs have a Phase control but no Polarity control, adjust Phase to match LF and see what ARC gives you as the result from playing the two subs together. If there are problems in the combined sub Measured output even though the Measured output from each sub played alone looks good, then you'll need to reposition one or both subs to get the effect that inverting Polarity would have given you. Even small changes in position could have a good effect.


(ARC can not show you if your phase is incorrect between the subs and the mains since it doesn't hear the subs playing at the same time as the mains. You can double check your phase setup after you load your ARC results by playing a test tone that sweeps up and down through the crossover frequencies such as on the AIX audio calibration Blu-Ray. If things are set right your ears will tell you that the sweep tone maintains a constant volume as it goes up and down either side of the crossover.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulF* /forum/post/19445014
> 
> 
> Thanks for the clarifications Bob. This should work perfectly for what I had in mind -- video from the SAT receiver while audio comes from blu-ray player or perhaps FM tuner.
> 
> 
> On a separate note. Is there any way to tie the RS-232 port into a more automated control approach? I believe some people are using RS-232 to USB converters. Can this be taken one step further using an RS-232 to Ethernet converter?



I've not tried any combos like that but they undoubtedly exist.


Folks are getting enthusiastic about the iRule stuff which is wifi control from an Apple iPad to a control device that sits near your equipment. But I haven't looked into whether it attaches to the D2v via the RS-232 thus allowing, for example, two way communication so that you can query the D2v about current status/settings as well as change them.


There have been folks posting here on iRule and I gather there's a Forum here discussing it as well.


Of course for standard home theater automation stuff, serial control is well established as for example with the Crestron control equipment. The RS-232 command set in the Anthems is extensive beyond belief, so with a system like the Crestron you can do ANYTHING you might imagine -- e.g., directing the Anthem to display messages on your TV screen for example. In the case of the Crestron, control commands to its service box come from remote Crestron units.


The Anthem applications (firmware installs, ARC setup, remote settings control as from Live Video Settings Editor) all require a serial connection from a Windows PC.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19445755
> 
> 
> As Alvin says, use the average distance of the two subs -- 10 feet in your case.
> 
> 
> The speaker distance stuff has two important roles to play. First for the mains it makes sure that sounds placed between speakers in the sound field actually appear to come from the intended locations. Errors in speaker distance will shift the sounds towards either side of the intended location. Now for bass, that's not an issue because bass works by pressurizing the entire room -- i.e., bass sounds appear to "come from everywhere". So there is no localization issue to worry about.
> 
> 
> But there's another important result of the time delay that speaker distances represent and that is how the sub phase matches against the main speakers.
> 
> 
> So be sure you re-adjust the Polarity/Phase for each of your two subs *AFTER* you enter the new, 10 foot distance setting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Very informative and detailed answer...Thanks Bob.


Now my subs do not have a polarity switch. How would this afffect my calibration setup?


----------



## etrexler

I am using the Keyspan.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Very informative and detailed answer...Thanks Bob.
> 
> 
> Now my subs do not have a polarity switch. How would this afffect my calibration setup?



I edited my post above to add that.

--Bob


----------



## Ron Alcasid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nantha1* /forum/post/19424011
> 
> 
> Thanks for your response. I have the new Apple TV hooked up so will come back with some observations.



Make sure to set the HDMI input you are using with the AppleTV to extended RGB color space otherwise you'll get clipped blacks and whites.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19445915
> 
> 
> I edited my post above to add that.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks again Bob ... now would swapping wires at the back of the sub terminals be the equivalent of a polarity switch?


----------



## PaulF




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19445788
> 
> 
> I've not tried any combos like that but they undoubtedly exist.
> 
> 
> Folks are getting enthusiastic about the iRule stuff which is wifi control from an Apple iPad to a control device that sits near your equipment. But I haven't looked into whether it attaches to the D2v via the RS-232 thus allowing, for example, two way communication so that you can query the D2v about current status/settings as well as change them.
> 
> 
> There have been folks posting here on iRule and I gather there's a Forum here discussing it as well.
> 
> 
> Of course for standard home theater automation stuff, serial control is well established as for example with the Crestron control equipment. The RS-232 command set in the Anthems is extensive beyond belief, so with a system like the Crestron you can do ANYTHING you might imagine -- e.g., directing the Anthem to display messages on your TV screen for example. In the case of the Crestron, control commands to its service box come from remote Crestron units.
> 
> 
> The Anthem applications (firmware installs, ARC setup, remote settings control as from Live Video Settings Editor) all require a serial connection from a Windows PC.
> 
> --Bob



The more I think about it, the more I realize I should have elaborated.


The part I could not get my head around was how to do FW upgrades etc. if using a serial to Ethernet converter because the application that runs on the PC is expecting to address a serial port. As you say, we are probably limited in this regard.


However for day to day control you now have me thinking about the merits of RS-232 (even 2-way) over standard IR. I'm not a big iAnything fan as I prefer the feel of real buttons. Do you think something like this from URC would work?

MRX-10 and MS-1200 


Most high-end remotes come pre-programmed with popular vendors' IR codes. Does going RS-232 require me (or a programmer) to enter all the RS-232 codes?


Also, can you point me to a post that describes how the USB to serial converter thing works. As they are both serial, does the FW upgrade app support this config?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The USB/serial adapter (for example the Keyspan USA-19HS) is simply a way to add a serial port to a computer that does not already have one. There are other ways to do this as well such as PCI cards. The Anthem Windows software does not know the adapter is implementing the serial port. It just knows there's a COM port available with an Anthem processor at the other end.


The IR control codes are entirely separate from the RS-232 command set. There's a spreadsheet included in the ARC install stuff that documents the incredibly extensive RS-232 command set. RS-232 controllers need to be programmed both for the commands you want to use and, often, for the user interface you want to use. There are forum threads here that discuss controllers that can be used with devices that accept RS-232 control.


For folks who want a programmable remote that uses IR, one common choice is the Harmony remotes from Logitech. I use a Harmony 880 myself. The D2v IR codes are in the Harmony database.


DRHANKZ uses Crestron for RS-232 control and has posted several times on how relatively easy it was to set up after a bit of learning curve.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19446110
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob ... now would swapping wires at the back of the sub terminals be the equivalent of a polarity switch?



Yes, inverting Polarity is equivalent to swapping the leads within the RCA cable running from the Anthem to the sub.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19446261
> 
> 
> Yes, inverting Polarity is equivalent to swapping the leads within the RCA cable running from the Anthem to the sub.
> 
> --Bob



Cool ...thanks again Bob!


----------



## slots1

Bob

Thanks for the help getting by D2 running again. Did the flash eraser.

But, I give up listening to you guys after almost 2 years. I will send my D2 in for an exchange for the D2v. It looks like the D3 is one or two years away.

I use the Logitech 890 which is RF. I have a controler in my audio setup and one in the projector. No more aiming or flashers. My old 890 went bad and I got a refurbished one from Logitech thru Amazon. About $145, bargain.

Hope the turn around on the D2v is fast, Piero said it should be.

By the way I just switched my Directv to the whole house network. Do not need a hr24, works with the HR22 and HR21. So I 300 HD hours available on three sets in the house. Watch anywhere. And the directv guys got it right the first time.


----------



## abc999

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke* 
Cool ...makes sense now. How did you like the sound of the front-rear subwoofer arrangement as opposed to thestandard front left-ritght arrangement?


Thanks (and what a night owl you are







)


David
My 20-25 hz. was several dB hotter than the rest of the subs bandwidth with this setup. Maybe if your subs need a little boost in that region then it might work fine.


I went back to old left right arrangement but with a twist, they are now 7ft away from the front wall( dedicated theater) and I found that it has the best response using the quick measure tool provided by ARC 3.0. Its very similar to Jayray's sub position.


A lot of variables come to play with sub positioning but if you want a tried and tested 2 sub optimized placement, the front and back configuration is a great way to start.


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *abc999* 
My 20-25 hz. was several dB hotter than the rest of the subs bandwidth with this setup. Maybe if your subs need a little boost in that region then it might work fine.


I went back to old left right arrangement but with a twist, they are now 7ft away from the front wall( dedicated theater) and I found that it has the best response using the quick measure tool provided by ARC 3.0. Its very similar to Jayray's sub position.


A lot of variables come to play with sub positioning but if you want a tried and tested 2 sub optimized placement, the front and back configuration is a great way to start.
Glad to hear that is working for you.

John


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've not tried any combos like that but they undoubtedly exist.
> 
> 
> Folks are getting enthusiastic about the iRule stuff which is wifi control from an Apple iPad to a control device that sits near your equipment. But I haven't looked into whether it attaches to the D2v via the RS-232 thus allowing, for example, two way communication so that you can query the D2v about current status/settings as well as change them.
> 
> 
> There have been folks posting here on iRule and I gather there's a Forum here discussing it as well.
> 
> 
> Of course for standard home theater automation stuff, serial control is well established as for example with the Crestron control equipment. The RS-232 command set in the Anthems is extensive beyond belief, so with a system like the Crestron you can do ANYTHING you might imagine -- e.g., directing the Anthem to display messages on your TV screen for example. In the case of the Crestron, control commands to its service box come from remote Crestron units.
> 
> 
> The Anthem applications (firmware installs, ARC setup, remote settings control as from Live Video Settings Editor) all require a serial connection from a Windows PC.
> 
> --Bob



I can speak on using the d2v via rs232 and the Irule application. Bob is correct there is unlimited commands via rs232. You use a gateway connected to the d2v. I use an itach product. It works wonderfully.


----------



## jb5200




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19434206
> 
> 
> for jb5200 - In case "hidden" DSP settings such as nonzero Fronts Bass are at play, save user settings, load defaults, load user settings. This would clear them without affecting menu settings. Also use the on-screen meter in menu 8 to help find the right analog-in level setting.
> 
> 
> If you need further assistance please contact tech support.
> 
> 
> ---------------------
> 
> 
> for studlygoorite - In case it hasn't been considered or applied and it's not too late, you might want to use conduit for AV cabling - this will make future cable swaps a lot easier than fishing behind finished walls. 50 feet of straight copper for HDMI is tricky - at least make sure it's 23-gauge. For Category II (12-bit 1080p60 bandwidth required) the official limit is 25 feet.
> 
> 
> As for unofficial limts:
> 
> 
> At the factory's theater the D2v and LTX 500 have no hiccups with a 23-gauge 20 metre cable (over 60 feet). This was surprising and wouldn't you know it, when I tried to set up a second identical system it didn't work unless resolution was lowered. No sources were involved yet. The 20m cables were bought at the same time so I'm guessing they came from the same roll. Luckily the second system needed only 40 feet and when the shorter cable arrived everything worked like magic. You can never be sure about what'll happen till you try it.



Hey everybody, thanks for the tips!


So I took my D1 and my PS Audio DLIII to my buddies house b/c he has pretty much the same system (D1, same amps, same speakers, same cables) the only thing different is he has a Wyred4Sound DAC2. Well after many tests to try to get this thing figured out here are my results:


1st test - connected the DLIII to his D1 with all same menu settings - same results, really fuzzy and by really fuzzy I mean so fuzzy you can't even understand what song is playing! So that rules out the D1 right? It's gotta be the DAC is what we're thinking!


2nd test - connected the DLIII directly to the amps taking the D1 out of the picture. WOW! It was perfect. I mean it actually was the best that I have ever heard that DAC. I was completely blown away by how good it actually was. So at this point I am completely confused b/c it's not the DAC.


Interesting part here - pay attention! B/c the DLIII was so inspiring I wanted to do an A/B against the W4S. I realize there is a second or two time delay switching the XLR cables but here's the results. Both DAC's were so close that if you did a blind test my buddy and I both agreed that you wouldn't be able to tell which was which. The DLIII was actually cleaner in certain parts of the song and had much fuller bass, which I prefer. The W4S had tighter bass but a little grungier sound and the vocals were much more forward. We were both expecting the differences to be a little greater but MAN they were so similar it wasn't even funny!


3rd test - connected the W4S to my D1 with same menu settings - clear as a frickin bell.


Now one thing we noticed was that when we had the DACs connected straight to the amps the volume for the DLIII was set to 16 on Winamp and with the W4S it was 63, so that has play some part but not sure.


4th test - connected my D1 straight usb thinking maybe the Hiface w/coax caused it - same result, fuzzy as can be so it wasn't the Hiface.


5th test - connected the D1 using an Oppo as a transport only - same result, fuzzy.


- Anthem D1 connected RCA using CD input - sound is very good

- Anthem D1 connected XLR 2ch AnalogDIR - sound is clear as a bell but no bass mgmt. or ARC

- Anthem D1 connected XLR 2ch AnalogDSP - sound again is fuzzier than fuzzy


So for some reason that I cannot figure out the D1 with the PS Audio DLIII in AnalogDSP will not work, which doesn't make any sense to me that a different DAC does. I tried lowering the input levels like mentioned in an earlier post and it did get rid of the fuzziness but the sound was horrible - glassy, hard, sharp, no bass. I tried raising the fronts bass like [email protected] told me but that didn't help, the sound just wasn't balanced at all. It just wasn't good at all. I had v1.31 and updated to 1.33 so I did the saved settings, load defaults, and loaded user settings and didn't help. It shouldn't be this hard, I should be able to connect a different DAC and it should be all good and I did with the W4S - clear as a bell. Put the DLIII in and fuzzy as can be.


Sorry for such a long post but I am at a loss! Any test or setting I am overlooking??? I will post on Anthem and PS Audio to see if they have any suggestions as well.


Thanks for every ones help!


----------



## barrygordon

Bob, a few posts back You indicated that messages could be sent to the TV screen over the RS232 interface. For the life of me I can not figure out how to do that. I can't find a command that will me to overlay text or force text to screen. I can see doing it with a source switch, but I do not want to do that due to switching delays. Any Hints?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/19448962
> 
> 
> Hey everybody, thanks for the tips!
> 
> 
> So I took my D1 and my PS Audio DLIII to my buddies house b/c he has pretty much the same system (D1, same amps, same speakers, same cables) the only thing different is he has a Wyred4Sound DAC2. Well after many tests to try to get this thing figured out here are my results:
> 
> 
> 1st test - connected the DLIII to his D1 with all same menu settings - same results, really fuzzy and by really fuzzy I mean so fuzzy you can't even understand what song is playing! So that rules out the D1 right? It's gotta be the DAC is what we're thinking!
> 
> 
> 2nd test - connected the DLIII directly to the amps taking the D1 out of the picture. WOW! It was perfect. I mean it actually was the best that I have ever heard that DAC. I was completely blown away by how good it actually was. So at this point I am completely confused b/c it's not the DAC.
> 
> 
> Interesting part here - pay attention! B/c the DLIII was so inspiring I wanted to do an A/B against the W4S. I realize there is a second or two time delay switching the XLR cables but here's the results. Both DAC's were so close that if you did a blind test my buddy and I both agreed that you wouldn't be able to tell which was which. The DLIII was actually cleaner in certain parts of the song and had much fuller bass, which I prefer. The W4S had tighter bass but a little grungier sound and the vocals were much more forward. We were both expecting the differences to be a little greater but MAN they were so similar it wasn't even funny!
> 
> 
> 3rd test - connected the W4S to my D1 with same menu settings - clear as a frickin bell.
> 
> 
> Now one thing we noticed was that when we had the DACs connected straight to the amps the volume for the DLIII was set to 16 on Winamp and with the W4S it was 63, so that has play some part but not sure.
> 
> 
> 4th test - connected my D1 straight usb thinking maybe the Hiface w/coax caused it - same result, fuzzy as can be so it wasn't the Hiface.
> 
> 
> 5th test - connected the D1 using an Oppo as a transport only - same result, fuzzy.
> 
> 
> - Anthem D1 connected RCA using CD input - sound is very good
> 
> - Anthem D1 connected XLR 2ch AnalogDIR - sound is clear as a bell but no bass mgmt. or ARC
> 
> - Anthem D1 connected XLR 2ch AnalogDSP - sound again is fuzzier than fuzzy
> 
> 
> So for some reason that I cannot figure out the D1 with the PS Audio DLIII in AnalogDSP will not work, which doesn't make any sense to me that a different DAC does. I tried lowering the input levels like mentioned in an earlier post and it did get rid of the fuzziness but the sound was horrible - glassy, hard, sharp, no bass. I tried raising the fronts bass like [email protected] told me but that didn't help, the sound just wasn't balanced at all. It just wasn't good at all. I had v1.31 and updated to 1.33 so I did the saved settings, load defaults, and loaded user settings and didn't help. It shouldn't be this hard, I should be able to connect a different DAC and it should be all good and I did with the W4S - clear as a bell. Put the DLIII in and fuzzy as can be.
> 
> 
> Sorry for such a long post but I am at a loss! Any test or setting I am overlooking??? I will post on Anthem and PS Audio to see if they have any suggestions as well.
> 
> 
> Thanks for every ones help!



Sorry your having so much trouble.

After looking on the PS DLIII manual there is one setting on the PS DLIII you need to check.

The PS DLIII can be set to output 96 or 192 khz.

The D1 (or D2) can only accept 96 khz.

Make sure that the PS is set to output 96 klhz.


Other than that, you can put your PS for sale on Audiogon and pick up a used W4S







.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

He's using an analog connection, so a 96 vs 192 KHz output setting in the DAC should make no difference. Sampling rate is a characteristic of a digital audio signal only. Of course there could be a bug in the DAC.


ETA: Perhaps I misunderstand, as why would a DAC -- an analog output device -- even OFFER a 96 vs. 192KHz "output" setting??

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/19448962
> 
> 
> Hey everybody, thanks for the tips!
> 
> 
> So I took my D1 and my PS Audio DLIII to my buddies house b/c he has pretty much the same system (D1, same amps, same speakers, same cables) the only thing different is he has a Wyred4Sound DAC2. Well after many tests to try to get this thing figured out here are my results:
> 
> 
> 1st test – connected the DLIII to his D1 with all same menu settings – same results, really fuzzy and by really fuzzy I mean so fuzzy you can’t even understand what song is playing! So that rules out the D1 right? It’s gotta be the DAC is what we’re thinking!
> 
> 
> 2nd test – connected the DLIII directly to the amps taking the D1 out of the picture. WOW! It was perfect. I mean it actually was the best that I have ever heard that DAC. I was completely blown away by how good it actually was. So at this point I am completely confused b/c it’s not the DAC.
> 
> 
> Interesting part here – pay attention! B/c the DLIII was so inspiring I wanted to do an A/B against the W4S. I realize there is a second or two time delay switching the XLR cables but here’s the results. Both DAC’s were so close that if you did a blind test my buddy and I both agreed that you wouldn’t be able to tell which was which. The DLIII was actually cleaner in certain parts of the song and had much fuller bass, which I prefer. The W4S had tighter bass but a little grungier sound and the vocals were much more forward. We were both expecting the differences to be a little greater but MAN they were so similar it wasn’t even funny!
> 
> 
> 3rd test – connected the W4S to my D1 with same menu settings – clear as a frickin bell.
> 
> 
> Now one thing we noticed was that when we had the DACs connected straight to the amps the volume for the DLIII was set to 16 on Winamp and with the W4S it was 63, so that has play some part but not sure.
> 
> 
> 4th test – connected my D1 straight usb thinking maybe the Hiface w/coax caused it – same result, fuzzy as can be so it wasn’t the Hiface.
> 
> 
> 5th test – connected the D1 using an Oppo as a transport only – same result, fuzzy.
> 
> 
> - Anthem D1 connected RCA using CD input – sound is very good
> 
> - Anthem D1 connected XLR 2ch AnalogDIR – sound is clear as a bell but no bass mgmt. or ARC
> 
> - Anthem D1 connected XLR 2ch AnalogDSP – sound again is fuzzier than fuzzy
> 
> 
> So for some reason that I cannot figure out the D1 with the PS Audio DLIII in AnalogDSP will not work, which doesn’t make any sense to me that a different DAC does. I tried lowering the input levels like mentioned in an earlier post and it did get rid of the fuzziness but the sound was horrible – glassy, hard, sharp, no bass. I tried raising the fronts bass like [email protected] told me but that didn’t help, the sound just wasn’t balanced at all. It just wasn’t good at all. I had v1.31 and updated to 1.33 so I did the saved settings, load defaults, and loaded user settings and didn’t help. It shouldn’t be this hard, I should be able to connect a different DAC and it should be all good and I did with the W4S – clear as a bell. Put the DLIII in and fuzzy as can be.
> 
> 
> Sorry for such a long post but I am at a loss! Any test or setting I am overlooking??? I will post on Anthem and PS Audio to see if they have any suggestions as well.
> 
> 
> Thanks for every ones help!



Explain your 4th test: "Connected my D1 straight USB"


Huh?


Explain your 5th test: "Oppo used as a transport only - same result fuzzy."


The Oppo you are using has XLR stereo output??


In your test with the DAC directly connected to the amps I believe you said you had to crank UP some sort of volume setting for your DAC as opposed to your friend's DAC? Is that correct? Your DAC was putting out too LITTLE analog voltage? That is, did you mean the volume settings were -16dB compared to -63dB?


Or was it just the other way around, that your DAC was putting out WAY TOO MUCH analog voltage? So that you had to dramatically lower the volume when using your DAC.


And where were you adjusting this volume? On the input signal to your DAC? Some control inside the DAC? Some volume adjustment built into the amps?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/19449082
> 
> 
> Bob, a few posts back You indicated that messages could be sent to the TV screen over the RS232 interface. For the life of me I can not figure out how to do that. I can't find a command that will me to overlay text or force text to screen. I can see doing it with a source switch, but I do not want to do that due to switching delays. Any Hints?



I haven't tried it myself, but we've had a couple posts here saying somebody figured out a way to do it. I presume they were using the same character generator that produces the on-screen status and volume messages (e.g., when you press the Select button), so I'd look for commands that might seem related to that.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19449388
> 
> 
> He's using an analog connection, so a 96 vs 192 KHz output setting should make no difference. Sampling rate is a characteristic of a digital audio signal only. Of course there could be a bug in the DAC.
> 
> --Bob



You are right, of course.


Just thinking that with the D2 set to straight 'Analog' the PS DLIII plays clear, but in 'AnalogDSP' its fuzzy or harsh- maybe in the a/d then d/a conversions in 'AnalogDSP' the output setting in the PS DLIII might make a difference.

It probably won't make a difference, but its only one button push on the PS DLIII to try.


I do remember trying a Cambridge Audio 840c cdp with my D2. The 840c outputs at 394/24 via xlr, and it sounded just terrible. I'm sure I was using 'AnalogDSP' in the D2 for ARC.

The CA 840c had gotten rave reviews, But thru the D2 it was fuzzy and harsh. Unlistenable. And I had adjusted the analog input to -6 for 2ch.


Just think its worth a try. I'm more than willing to be proven wrong.


Tom


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/19449082
> 
> 
> Bob, a few posts back You indicated that messages could be sent to the TV screen over the RS232 interface. For the life of me I can not figure out how to do that. I can't find a command that will me to overlay text or force text to screen. I can see doing it with a source switch, but I do not want to do that due to switching delays. Any Hints?



row 84:


P1z xA display a message "A" on the main zone OSD and front panel LCD line x=1,2(1=line 1,2=line 2)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19449560
> 
> 
> You are right, of course.
> 
> 
> Just thinking that with the D2 set to straight 'Analog' the PS DLIII plays clear, but in 'AnalogDSP' its fuzzy or harsh- maybe in the a/d then d/a conversions in 'AnalogDSP' the output setting in the PS DLIII might make a difference.
> 
> It probably won't make a difference, but its only one button push on the PS DLIII to try.
> 
> 
> I do remember trying a Cambridge Audio 840c cdp with my D2. The 840c outputs at 394/24 via xlr, and it sounded just terrible. I'm sure I was using 'AnalogDSP' in the D2 for ARC.
> 
> The CA 840c had gotten rave reviews, But thru the D2 it was fuzzy and harsh. Unlistenable. And I had adjusted the analog input to -6 for 2ch.
> 
> 
> Just think its worth a try. I'm more than willing to be proven wrong.
> 
> 
> Tom



I'm pretty certain the key finding here will be that volume difference he reported when he played both DACs directly into the amps. If his DAC is putting out bogus voltage that will screw up the digitizer in the D1. If the bogus voltage is WAY off, adjusting the input trim to compensate may screw up the signal quality. We should be looking for a setting that defines what output voltage his DAC should be generating on its XLR outputs.


But I also want to find out what the heck he did with that Oppo test. If he meant he's got an Oppo with XLR outputs and he hooked that up directly to the D1's XLR inputs and got bad results, then that's an important result. But I didn't think Oppo had any older players with XLR outputs. Their current Blu-Ray players don't have them.


Anyway, as I said it could be a bug in the DAC and changing that setting may be just the trick, even if there's no logical reason for it. As you say, worth a try. I wonder what they could possibly mean by having that as an "output" setting, though.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19449727
> 
> 
> row 84:
> 
> 
> P1z xA display a message "A" on the main zone OSD and front panel LCD line x=1,2(1=line 1,2=line 2)



Proving once again that Anthem factory support has ALL the answers!









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Over in the thread where people hae been discussing the MRX receivers, Nick just stated that the upcoming firmware update for them to enable 3D support will mean that a 3D signal bypasses the video processor.


Hmmm, I wonder if that means the HDMI V1.4 upgrade for the D2v and AVM 50v will also bypass the video processor when a 3D signal is present?


If so, that would be yet another reason to not want to use 3D.

--Bob


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Over in the thread where people hae been discussing the MRX receivers, Nick just stated that the upcoming firmware update for them to enable 3D support will mean that a 3D signal bypasses the video processor.
> 
> 
> Hmmm, I wonder if that means the HDMI V1.4 upgrade for the D2v and AVM 50v will also bypass the video processor when a 3D signal is present?
> 
> 
> If so, that would be yet another reason to not want to use 3D.
> 
> --Bob



I'm personally not on the 3d bandwagon.


----------



## barrygordon

The best 3D I saw at Cedia was at JVC where the demonstrated their 2D-3D converter. You would swear you were looking through a window. They demo'd sports and a travelogue. The converter is made for broadcast stations and costs $30,000 So I for one will wait. The 3D I have seen in theaters did not impress me the way the JVC demo did.


In todays state of video, there should not be much processing of 3D content needed. The source will be a fairly pristine signal (bluray) and the sink a high quality display with native resolutions just where they should be (1920 @ 24fps post process). I do not think there will be much need for video scaling or adjustment.


----------



## jb5200




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19449438
> 
> 
> Explain your 4th test: "Connected my D1 straight USB"
> 
> 
> Huh?
> 
> 
> Explain your 5th test: "Oppo used as a transport only - same result fuzzy."
> 
> 
> The Oppo you are using has XLR stereo output??
> 
> 
> In your test with the DAC directly connected to the amps I believe you said you had to crank UP some sort of volume setting for your DAC as opposed to your friend's DAC? Is that correct? Your DAC was putting out too LITTLE analog voltage? That is, did you mean the volume settings were -16dB compared to -63dB?
> 
> 
> Or was it just the other way around, that your DAC was putting out WAY TOO MUCH analog voltage? So that you had to dramatically lower the volume when using your DAC.
> 
> 
> And where were you adjusting this volume? On the input signal to your DAC? Some control inside the DAC? Some volume adjustment built into the amps?
> 
> --Bob



Oh yeah, I just didn't want to write a book so I might have left a few details out.


Test 4 was straight USB from the computer to the DAC USB and then XLR out to the D1 and then XLR out to the amps.


Test 5 was with the Coax out of the Oppo to the Coax into the DAC and then XLR out to the D1 then XLR out to the amps.


When we connected the DACs directly to the amps it was connected from the computer using coax to the back of DAC and then XLR to the amps. I don't have vol. control on the DLIII so we used the volume on the software program Winamp on the computer where we play the songs. The thing we noticed was the W4S needed the vol. bar slid to 63% to get to the same volume versus mine (DLIII) only needed to be at about 16%, so I am assuming that has something to do with it.


There really are no other controls on the DLIII other than the 96 or 192khz button on the front, so if something needed to be adjusted it would need to be inside which is above my league. I have a post to PS Audio and Anthem so hopefully they can provide a little insight.


I hope that helps - I'm not usually the best at explaining things.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OK, there's nothing there that contradicts the theory your DAC is putting out way too much voltage on its XLR outputs.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/19451495
> 
> 
> There really are no other controls on the DLIII other than the 96 or 192khz button on the front, so if something needed to be adjusted it would need to be inside which is above my league. I have a post to PS Audio and Anthem so hopefully they can provide a little insight.



So, you tried both the 96 and 192kHz settings on the PS DLIII and they both sounded bad?


If so, I think you and Bob are right about it having something to do with the volume (voltage?) in the PS DLII dac.


Good luck figuring out,


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/19451495
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, I just didn't want to write a book so I might have left a few details out.
> 
> 
> Test 4 was straight USB from the computer to the DAC USB and then XLR out to the D1 and then XLR out to the amps.
> 
> 
> Test 5 was with the Coax out of the Oppo to the Coax into the DAC and then XLR out to the D1 then XLR out to the amps.
> 
> 
> When we connected the DACs directly to the amps it was connected from the computer using coax to the back of DAC and then XLR to the amps. I don't have vol. control on the DLIII so we used the volume on the software program Winamp on the computer where we play the songs. The thing we noticed was the W4S needed the vol. bar slid to 63% to get to the same volume versus mine (DLIII) only needed to be at about 16%, so I am assuming that has something to do with it.
> 
> 
> There really are no other controls on the DLIII other than the 96 or 192khz button on the front, so if something needed to be adjusted it would need to be inside which is above my league. I have a post to PS Audio and Anthem so hopefully they can provide a little insight.
> 
> 
> I hope that helps - I'm not usually the best at explaining things.



I think I would be suspicious of the Winamp player.

Was your friends system also using that player ?

I am not real familiar with the Winamp player but do know that it is mainly an MP3 player.
*MAKE SURE the Auto volume controls are switched off and the EQ is turned off.*

I would download another free audio player to try.

Maybe VLC, Media Monkey or Foobar. Worth a try.


----------



## jb5200

Yeah, I use Media Monkey at my house and no difference. All files in both Media Monkey and Winamp were ripped into wave.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19452420
> 
> 
> I think I would be suspicious of the Winamp player.
> 
> Was your friends system also using that player ?
> 
> I am not real familiar with the Winamp player but do know that it is mainly an MP3 player.
> *MAKE SURE the Auto volume controls are switched off and the EQ is turned off.*
> 
> I would download another free audio player to try.
> 
> Maybe VLC, Media Monkey or Foobar. Worth a try.



He's also having the problem driving his DAC using an Oppo player (no Winamp involved), so although Winamp may have its own problems, it is not the root cause of THIS problem.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/19448962
> 
> 
> I tried raising the fronts bass like [email protected] told me



not what I said... from the top:


Clear potentially unknown or forgotten on-the-fly settings (save user settings, load defaults, load user settings) then use on-screen meter in Analog Input Levels menu to adjust (details in manual section 3.8).


And yes, as others mentioned make sure the source is putting out a clean flat signal.


----------



## veerapaneni

I just got my Anthem D2v and initial impression is very poor. I dont find any sound quaility difference between my Denon 3311CI and Anthem. I have not run ARC setup yet. Even without ARC setup i was expecting a big improvement in sound quality. Even my wife said she did not find any difference in sound quality.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veerapaneni* /forum/post/19454619
> 
> 
> I just got my Anthem D2v and initial impression is very poor. I dont find any sound quaility difference between my Denon 3311CI and Anthem. I have not run ARC setup yet. Even without ARC setup i was expecting a big improvement in sound quality. Even my wife said she did not find any difference in sound quality.



Wait until you run ARC to make your judgement. If you changed to new speakers as well, keep in mind that speakers often need break in time.


Double check the basics of your setup as well. Simple mistakes like wiring up one or more speakers with reversed polarity, or having the sub volume way off, can produce audio problems that outweigh any gain you might get with better equipment.


Also keep in mind that the quality of your audio source content is important. Better equipment won't make bad source content sound better. In fact it may make the problems in the source content more noticeable. If you aren't hearing any specific problems, but just aren't hearing an improvement you hoped for, that could be the cause.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *veerapaneni*
I just got my Anthem D2v and initial impression is very poor. I dont find any sound quaility difference between my Denon 3311CI and Anthem. I have not run ARC setup yet. Even without ARC setup i was expecting a big improvement in sound quality. Even my wife said she did not find any difference in sound quality.








It is highly unlikely hundreds of Anthem owners and most reviewers are wrong about their observations. I'd follow Bob's advice and report back later.

John


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *veerapaneni* 
I just got my Anthem D2v and initial impression is very poor. I dont find any sound quaility difference between my Denon 3311CI and Anthem. I have not run ARC setup yet. Even without ARC setup i was expecting a big improvement in sound quality. Even my wife said she did not find any difference in sound quality.








You must have also gotten a Bunch More Stuff.


The Denon has built-in AMPs.


The D2v is a Pre/Pro and it costs 10 times more than Denon costs.


----------



## veerapaneni

I agree with all these . Thats why i have spend a lot of money and bought D2v. I am using Logitech Squeezbox to play music from My Computer and using Digitial connection of Squeezbox to connect to D2V.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *veerapaneni* 
I agree with all these . Thats why i have spend a lot of money and bought D2v. I am using Logitech Squeezbox to play music from My Computer and using Digitial connection of Squeezbox to connect to D2V.
If you haven't changed speakers or amps as well, odds are you just have a simple setup mistake in your D2v setup.


Don't panic. Just take the time to work through this stuff. Check your wiring, check your Source definitions, check the Speaker Configuration settings you are using now (pre-ARC). Check your speaker levels (Setup > Level Calibration) and your speaker distance settings.


Check what the D2v says it is receiving for audio input from the Squeezbox.


OH, and if you haven't already done so, be sure to check and make sure you have Dolby Volume set to OFF for every Setup > Source Setup definition.

--Bob


----------



## gbhodge

Quote:

Originally Posted by *veerapaneni* 
I just got my Anthem D2v and initial impression is very poor. I dont find any sound quaility difference between my Denon 3311CI and Anthem. I have not run ARC setup yet. Even without ARC setup i was expecting a big improvement in sound quality. Even my wife said she did not find any difference in sound quality.








Check how you set the D2v up. Even before ARC, I heard audio improvement and after ARC the improvement is amazing. Why would you not run ARC?


----------



## veerapaneni

Quote:

Originally Posted by *gbhodge* 
Check how you set the D2v up. Even before ARC, I heard audio improvement and after ARC the improvement is amazing. Why would you not run ARC?


I am waiting for my Anthem P5 Amp which is going to come ON Wednesday. Dont want to run it twice. I know it is going to improve after running ARC , But i was expecting much before running ARC.


Is there a configuration setting where i upconvert my Audio? or is it default setting ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *veerapaneni* 
I am waiting for my Anthem P5 Amp which is going to come ON Wednesday. Dont want to run it twice. I know it is going to improve after running ARC , But i was expecting much before running ARC.


Is there a configuration setting where i upconvert my Audio? or is it default setting ?
The only such setting is the sampling rate for digitizing stereo analog audio inputs which you should raise to 96KHz (Setup > ADC).


But there are plenty of settings mistakes you could make that would degrade the audio. Again, double-check your Speaker Configuration, Level Calibration, Listener Position, and Source definitions. Also check that you are using the audio surround processing mode that you think you are using (press Mode once).

--Bob


----------



## veerapaneni

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
If you haven't changed speakers or amps as well, odds are you just have a simple setup mistake in your D2v setup.


Don't panic. Just take the time to work through this stuff. Check your wiring, check your Source definitions, check the Speaker Configuration settings you are using now (pre-ARC). Check your speaker levels (Setup > Level Calibration) and your speaker distance settings.


Check what the D2v says it is receiving for audio input from the Squeezbox.


OH, and if you haven't already done so, be sure to check and make sure you have Dolby Volume set to OFF for every Setup > Source Setup definition.

--Bob
Thanks. I will follow your advice and verify my setup. I might as well run my ARC setup . Need to buy USB-Serial Port Adapter .


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *veerapaneni* 
Need to buy USB-Serial Port Adapter .
Don't forget it needs to be the RIGHT ONE


----------



## drhankz

See Attachment Below


Click to READ


----------



## veerapaneni




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19455685
> 
> 
> See Attachment Below
> 
> 
> Click to READ



Hope this is available in Frys.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veerapaneni* /forum/post/19455790
> 
> 
> Hope this is available in Frys.



It should be - It is the most popular USB to Serial


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veerapaneni* /forum/post/19454883
> 
> 
> I agree with all these . Thats why i have spend a lot of money and bought D2v. I am using Logitech Squeezbox to play *music from My Computer* and using Digitial connection of Squeezbox to connect to D2V.



Bold mine.

What format are the music files on your computer? Hopefully lossless like wavs or flacs.


----------



## veerapaneni




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/19457981
> 
> 
> Bold mine.
> 
> What format are the music files on your computer? Hopefully lossless like wavs or flacs.



Yes. they are in FLAC Format. I connect using Wireless, and through Digital Cable to D2V. Hope i am doing it right.


----------



## obie_fl

That should work there are quite a few folks using SBs with their Anthems, myself included. I was just worried you were feeding it low bitrate MP3s or something.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19455685
> 
> 
> See Attachment Below
> 
> 
> Click to READ



Talk about inflation! It was only $25.49 just a few days ago.


----------



## dmusoke

Slightly OT here(forgive me but sleep seems to have evaded me tonight):


I have a question for those who use analog outputs from your CD/SACD/BD players and don't use any DSP/EQ but use the HT bypass features of your pre-pro's. Are your rooms so constructed and treated well enough to mitigate any rather obvious distortions the rooms may add?


Could it be that folks here are that rich (or committed







)? For those with humble budgets(







), do you just ignore room effects and simply enjoy or do you eventually go the 'dark side' an use room EQ?


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19458313
> 
> 
> .....For those with humble budgets(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), do you just ignore room effects and simply enjoy or do you eventually go the 'dark side' an use room EQ?



I feed all digital sources to my D2, and I use both room treatments and ARC.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veerapaneni* /forum/post/19454619
> 
> 
> I just got my Anthem D2v and initial impression is very poor. I dont find any sound quaility difference between my Denon 3311CI and Anthem. I have not run ARC setup yet. Even without ARC setup i was expecting a big improvement in sound quality. Even my wife said she did not find any difference in sound quality.



Have you looked at your room? Is the sound you are hearing is because of your room? Are you hearing echoes in your room? I'm asking you this because if your room is really fighting against you, and most do, then that would explain why you are hearing what you are hearing. No electronics will fix your room. So, if you are trying to fight the room battle with electronics, please stop wasting your time and money because electronic upgrades will never win that battle.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/19458213
> 
> 
> Talk about inflation! It was only $25.49 just a few days ago.



According to the Government - "There is no INFLATION"


----------



## ninja12

Well, I finally found my problem. I have a Velodyne DD-18 Sub which comes with built in EQ. When I run the Velodyne EQ, my chart falls off the cliff around 90 Hz, and for the life of me, I couldn't figure out why. So, I have been moving stuff around, I thought about adding more acoustic treatments, I rearranged my LP, and nothing was working. Well, this pass weekend, I ran the Velodyne EQ again, and once again, I got the same result. So, I just set in my LP and just started thinking about what I can try that I have not tried before. After about 30 minutes, I was still clueless. And just when I was about to say forget it, it hit me. I reversed the wiring on the back of my fronts. I put red on black and black on red. Well, I had little faith that the change would make any difference. Boy was I WRONG!!!!!! That was it. Now, my Velodyne EQ Chart is showing that I'm within 2db from 15 Hz to 165 Hz. So, sounds like the wiring was reversed at the factory. So, to double check to make sure I was seeing what I was really seeing, I reversed the wiring to put them back to how they originally were, and yes, I did get the original result. So, reverse wiring was my problem the whole time. Now, I am not boosting any frequency with the Velodyne EQ, as a matter of fact, frequencies 20, 25, 32, and 40 are at -12 which is completely cut and frequencies 50, 63, 80, and 100 are at 0. WOW!!!!!! a 30 seconds change changed my listening world. Now, I am truly one happy camper.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I finally found my problem. I have a Velodyne DD-18 Sub which comes with built in EQ. When I run the Velodyne EQ, my chart falls off the cliff around 90 Hz, and for the life of me, I couldn't figure out why. So, I have been moving stuff around, I thought about adding more acoustic treatments, I rearranged my LP, and nothing was working. Well, this pass weekend, I ran the Velodyne EQ again, and once again, I got the same result. So, I just set in my LP and just started thinking about what I can try that I have not tried before. After about 30 minutes, I was still clueless. And just when I was about to say forget it, it hit me. I reversed the wiring on the back of my fronts. I put red on black and black on red. Well, I had little faith that the change would make any difference. Boy was I WRONG!!!!!! That was it. Now, my Velodyne EQ Chart is showing that I'm within 2db from 15 Hz to 165 Hz. So, sounds like the wiring was reversed at the factory. So, to double check to make sure I was seeing what I was really seeing, I reversed the wiring to put them back to how they originally were, and yes, I did get the original result. So, reverse wiring was my problem the whole time. Now, I am not boosting any frequency with the Velodyne EQ, as a matter of fact, frequencies 20, 25, 32, and 40 are at -12 which is completely cut and frequencies 50, 63, 80, and 100 are at 0. WOW!!!!!! a 30 seconds change changed my listening world. Now, I am truly one happy camper.



That is funny. Now you have to watch all your movies and listen to all your music again









John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19458607
> 
> 
> That is funny. Now you have to watch all your movies and listen to all your music again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Yes, the fix is bitter sweet.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19458725
> 
> 
> Yes, the fix is bitter sweet.



Now, the other decision I have to make is "who do I trust". I was fortunate enough to purchase the Velodyne Mic Kit 5 for an extremely low price. The previous owner sold his Velodyne; but, he didn't sell the Mic Kit 5 because the new owner didn't want it. So, he almost really just gave it to me for the most part. Anyway, my Velodyne EQ is done from the same listening positions and at the same mic positions and mic height that I take my ARC Measurements from. Veloldyne Chart is showing me that I'm golden from 15 Hz to 165 Hz. I'm within 2 db across those frequencies. However, the ARC chart is showing that I have a 10 db spike at 70 Hz with the EQ engaged. So, I set up the Velodyne EQ again, which is a little time consuming, and I'm not seeing any spikes at all across all frequencies. So, I have done the absolute unthinkable. I have turned ARC off, and I manually setup everything. I have been listening to the non ARC setup for a couple of days now, and it's really not bad. It still sounds good. The bass is chest pounding in every seat. I will turn ARC on next week and re-listen to the same movies again and see how it sounds.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

When you set up your Velodyne EQ, make sure you have ARC turned OFF for that Source so that the Velodyne mic is not hearing the impact of your prior ARC solution for the sub and for LF/RF. However, leave the crossovers and volume trims in place from your prior ARC setup.


Then Measure for ARC so that ARC hears the changes made by your Velodyne EQ, and Upload that new result.


Finally, take ANOTHER look with the Velodyne mic, but this time with your new ARC solution turned ON in that Source. The curve from the Velodyne mic should now look clean, although not "flat" due to the Room Gain hump.


Your Polarity problem may be due to an incorrect Polarity setting in the Velodyne preset you are using when its EQ is engaged. Or even a grossly incorrect Phase setting for that preset.


Personally, I prefer to bypass the EQ in my Velodyne (preset 6) and let ARC do all the work. But you still have to be careful there are no errors in the table for Preset 6.


---------------------------------------


Also remember to disable the crossover in the Velodyne. Select the crossover value at the upper left of the table and them press Reset to disable all of them.


Now you have to do your Velodyne EQ setup all over again (with ARC OFF), and then re-Measure for ARC.


------------------------


Any volume changes you want to make in the Velodyne must be made on its Presets table page as volume changes made on the front page won't survive power cycles. Also be sure to set the default Preset for power up on the Presets table page.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19458313
> 
> 
> Slightly OT here(forgive me but sleep seems to have evaded me tonight):
> 
> 
> I have a question for those who use analog outputs from your CD/SACD/BD players and don't use any DSP/EQ but use the HT bypass features of your pre-pro's. Are your rooms so constructed and treated well enough to mitigate any rather obvious distortions the rooms may add?
> 
> 
> Could it be that folks here are that rich (or committed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )? For those with humble budgets(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), do you just ignore room effects and simply enjoy or do you eventually go the 'dark side' an use room EQ?



Not a direct answer but related:


Good correction improves any system. While ARC was under development long before it was called that, it was blind-tested with various setups - bad speaker / bad room, bad speaker / good room, good speaker / bad room, and good speaker / good room. Even back then it made audible improvements in all of the above. Some results showing this were published in JAES circa 1994.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19459122
> 
> 
> When you set up your Velodyne EQ, make sure you have ARC turned OFF for that Source so that the Velodyne mic is not hearing the impact of your prior ARC solution for the sub and for LF/RF. However, leave the crossovers and volume trims in place from your prior ARC setup.
> 
> 
> Then Measure for ARC so that ARC hears the changes made by your Velodyne EQ, and Upload that new result.
> 
> 
> Finally, take ANOTHER look with the Velodyne mic, but this time with your new ARC solution turned ON in that Source. The curve from the Velodyne mic should now look clean, although not "flat" due to the Room Gain hump.
> 
> 
> Your Polarity problem may be due to an incorrect Polarity setting in the Velodyne preset you are using when its EQ is engaged. Or even a grossly incorrect Phase setting for that preset.
> 
> 
> Personally, I prefer to bypass the EQ in my Velodyne (preset 6) and let ARC do all the work. But you still have to be careful there are no errors in the table for Preset 6.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Also remember to disable the crossover in the Velodyne. Select the crossover value at the upper left of the table and them press Reset to disable all of them.
> 
> 
> Now you have to do your Velodyne EQ setup all over again (with ARC OFF), and then re-Measure for ARC.
> 
> 
> ------------------------
> 
> 
> Any volume changes you want to make in the Velodyne must be made on its Presets table page as volume changes made on the front page won't survive power cycles. Also be sure to set the default Preset for power up on the Presets table page.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I do have ARC off for the source that I am using with the Velodyne. When I did the remeasure with ARC, I left the EQ engaged on the same preset. I have turned the crossover off, in the sub, for all presets. I have never run the Velodyne EQ with ARC turned on. I will have to do that and see how it looks.


As for the Phase and Polarity in the sub, the Phase is set to zero and the polarity is set to "+". My subs are both located in the front of my room beside each main speaker. Playing with the phase and polarity actually made the frequencies worse. So, zero and "+" are the best settings for the sub. Granted, I have not adjusted them since I changed the wiring on the back of my speakers.


Yes, I do set the volume and defaults in the menu for each preset.


I guess the only thing I really need to do now is run my Velodyne EQ with ARC engaged and see how it looks. The rest of it I have covered so far.


As always, thanks for the responses. I always appreciate them and you taking the time to always being willing to help out. Now, I have to setup the Velodyne stuff all over again. Thanks Bob!!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Keep in mind that reversing the Polarity of LF/RF as you have done also reverses their Polarity with respect to Center and your Surround speakers. All of your speakers have to have matching Polarity or you will screw up imaging (e.g., sounds that should be localized between speakers will be defuse or at the wrong location). Check Polarity for each adjacent pair of speakers going around the room using a speaker Polarity/Phase test track as for example on the AIX audio calibration Blu-Ray. Once each pair of adjacent speakers (going around the room) are in proper Polarity, they are ALL in proper Polarity with respect to each other.


It may be simpler to put LF/RF back to normal wiring and simply reverse the Polarity setting either in the Velodyne or in the Anthem setup for the sub output. But since you've now found a Polarity problem, you should definitely recheck the Polarity match for all your speakers.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19459122
> 
> 
> When you set up your Velodyne EQ, make sure you have ARC turned OFF for that Source so that the Velodyne mic is not hearing the impact of your prior ARC solution for the sub and for LF/RF. However, leave the crossovers and volume trims in place from your prior ARC setup.
> 
> 
> Then Measure for ARC so that ARC hears the changes made by your Velodyne EQ, and Upload that new result.
> 
> 
> Finally, take ANOTHER look with the Velodyne mic, but this time with your new ARC solution turned ON in that Source. The curve from the Velodyne mic should now look clean, although not "flat" due to the Room Gain hump.
> 
> 
> Your Polarity problem may be due to an incorrect Polarity setting in the Velodyne preset you are using when its EQ is engaged. Or even a grossly incorrect Phase setting for that preset.
> 
> 
> Personally, I prefer to bypass the EQ in my Velodyne (preset 6) and let ARC do all the work. But you still have to be careful there are no errors in the table for Preset 6.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Also remember to disable the crossover in the Velodyne. Select the crossover value at the upper left of the table and them press Reset to disable all of them.
> 
> 
> Now you have to do your Velodyne EQ setup all over again (with ARC OFF), and then re-Measure for ARC.
> 
> 
> ------------------------
> 
> 
> Any volume changes you want to make in the Velodyne must be made on its Presets table page as volume changes made on the front page won't survive power cycles. Also be sure to set the default Preset for power up on the Presets table page.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19459766
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that reversing the Polarity of LF/RF as you have done also reverses their Polarity with respect to Center and your Surround speakers. All of your speakers have to have matching Polarity or you will screw up imaging (e.g., sounds that should be localized between speakers will be defuse or at the wrong location). Check Polarity for each adjacent pair of speakers going around the room using a speaker Polarity/Phase test track as for example on the AIX audio calibration Blu-Ray. Once each pair of adjacent speakers (going around the room) are in proper Polarity, they are ALL in proper Polarity with respect to each other.
> 
> 
> It may be simpler to put LF/RF back to normal wiring and simply reverse the Polarity setting either in the Velodyne or in the Anthem setup for the sub output. But since you've now found a Polarity problem, you should definitely recheck the Polarity match for all your speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Oh yes, thanks for catching that. Good catch. I will definitely do that. Man Bob, you are really putting me to work here. I appreciate it though.


----------



## SimonNo10

Well if all goes according to plan I will have my 3rd D2v unit on Friday. It has been in testing since last week and it's working perfectly and their running it into a tv and a projector and so far so good. Also I've purcahsed an Epson TW-3200 projector (my first 1080p projector) and new 15m HDMI cable so everything is new to rule out my equipment.


So looking forward to just sitting back and listening to the system again.


----------



## jb5200




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19453985
> 
> 
> not what I said... from the top:
> 
> 
> Clear potentially unknown or forgotten on-the-fly settings (save user settings, load defaults, load user settings) then use on-screen meter in Analog Input Levels menu to adjust (details in manual section 3.8).
> 
> 
> And yes, as others mentioned make sure the source is putting out a clean flat signal.



GETTIN WARMER!!! Thanks Nick! I also got a response similar from Andrew at Paradigm??? I dropped the Analog level again using the OSD this time and WOW, I had to drop it to -16 before it turned green. This worked but the sound isn't still what I had before. I'm assuming I must have to adjust some things - do you have any suggestions - re-run ARC, LF EQ, sub settings, etc???


Now, on to my new problem - now when I use the 2 ch. the sound out of the right speaker is really soft compared to the left. I checked the L-R balance and it is dead middle. When I switch to the CD input - bam it's back to normal - same volume out of both speakers. Did I screw something up?


Thanks again for everyone's help


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matted* /forum/post/19462492
> 
> 
> On a sidenote, what misalignment on Rogers SD channels are you talking about? PM me... Without giving too much away, I may or may not have the power to fix such issues....
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Matt



(moved from MRX thread)


I have PM disabled to avoid working double shifts.


This stuff is no big deal and noticeable (maybe only by a tweak) on a display that has 1:1 pixel mapping, i.e. not overscanning.


Seems that things changed at least twice since I started using VXP with cable box. The first time must have been 2-3 years ago. There was quite a difference after an auto-update, the kind evidenced by subsequent bootup on channel 1. The image, now centered horizontally, used to be pushed slightly to one side although the OSD status bar and channel menu were always centered. Vertically, the image still wasn't centered.


The last change was subtle enough that I didn't notice until now, and the last time I set this up was only a few weeks ago. This recent update seems to be masking Macrovision garbage that used to show along the top of many channels, leaving a thin black bar instead.


Anyway here's the current situation, with 4250HD box:


For SD channels with 4:3 image, scaled by VXP to 1920x1080 including side pillars, I set custom cropping so 1892x1064 pixels are used. The cropped lines (16 of them after scaling) are all off the top. In other words I slightly enlarge and push the image all the way upwards to make up for whatever is masked at the top - nothing is cropped from the bottom. All things considered this isn't bad.


For SD channels with letterboxed 16:9 image that ends up "windowboxed" on a 16:9 display since it has bars on all sides, things are a little different. Normally, one would use some form of zoom mode to make the shrunken-looking image fit the screen. Thing is, it ends up being a little too low - a thin black bar still shows on top while information is lost at the bottom. By using custom crop mode in VXP with vertical size at 810 (the expected number, the middle 810 lines out of 1080) and vertical position 589 (a weird number - default is 1080, half of that is 540) then it ends up in the right place - no black bar on top, nothing lost beyond the bottom edge of the screen.


So in summary something is slightly altering the position of the image from the box... very minor issue. A pixel crop test pattern off a DVD or Blu-ray disc checks out fine.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jb5200* /forum/post/19462627
> 
> 
> Now, on to my new problem - now when I use the 2 ch. the sound out of the right speaker is really soft compared to the left.



If you didn't do the save user, load default, load user thing then now is the time. There's overall balance and then there's Fronts balance. Instead of trying to check everything everywhere, just set them all to zero in one shot as I mentioned in two previous posts.


If you have done that, what happens when left DAC output is connected to right prepro input and vice versa - does the problem go to the other side? Do you have another balanced source to cross-reference with? If not, how about an RCA-XLR adapter or two?


I'm wondering why sometimes people often no problem posting here but are reluctant to e-mail tech support... is it the search for as many opinions are possible? I've handled around 70,000 e-mail inquiries plus countless calls while at this company and then there are my co-workers who do the same... so don't be afraid. My posting here can't go on for much longer because I simply don't have the time - if you would like my response, use e-mail.


----------



## matted




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19463670
> 
> 
> (moved from MRX thread)
> 
> I have PM disabled to avoid working double shifts.



No worries! I totally understand where you are coming from. I only suggested PMs because I am rather limited with what I can say on a public forum.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19463670
> 
> 
> This stuff is no big deal and noticeable (maybe only by a tweak) on a display that has 1:1 pixel mapping, i.e. not overscanning.



Unfortunately for enthusiasts like us, what percentage of Rogers' customer base do you think is made up of people displaying 1:1 pixels out of their STBs?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19463670
> 
> 
> Seems that things changed at least twice since I started using VXP with cable box. The first time must have been 2-3 years ago. There was quite a difference after an auto-update, the kind evidenced by subsequent bootup on channel 1. The image, now centered horizontally, used to be pushed slightly to one side although the OSD status bar and channel menu were always centered. Vertically, the image still wasn't centered.



I'd never noticed or heard of the horizontal-centering issue. I wonder if it was 4250 specific? Sounds like it was a minor code update to fix either way.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19463670
> 
> 
> The last change was subtle enough that I didn't notice until now, and the last time I set this up was only a few weeks ago. This recent update seems to be masking Macrovision garbage that used to show along the top of many channels, leaving a thin black bar instead.
> 
> 
> Anyway here's the current situation, with 4250HD box:
> 
> 
> For SD channels with 4:3 image, scaled by VXP to 1920x1080 including side pillars, I set custom cropping so 1892x1064 pixels are used. The cropped lines (16 of them after scaling) are all off the top. In other words I slightly enlarge and push the image all the way upwards to make up for whatever is masked at the top - nothing is cropped from the bottom. All things considered this isn't bad.
> 
> 
> For SD channels with letterboxed 16:9 image that ends up "windowboxed" on a 16:9 display since it has bars on all sides, things are a little different. Normally, one would use some form of zoom mode to make the shrunken-looking image fit the screen. Thing is, it ends up being a little too low - a thin black bar still shows on top while information is lost at the bottom. By using custom crop mode in VXP with vertical size at 810 (the expected number, the middle 810 lines out of 1080) and vertical position 589 (a weird number - default is 1080, half of that is 540) then it ends up in the right place - no black bar on top, nothing lost beyond the bottom edge of the screen.



It's hard to know for sure without seeing it, but it sounds like this is all stemming from the lines of resolution reserved at the top of the picture for, as you put it, "Macrovision garbage" (Closed captioning, amongst other things, also lives up there).


Unfortunately the need for that information still exists, so it can't just be cropped and adjusted at the encoder level. (which is exactly where I was hoping to be able to help you with your problem







)


The scaler in the STB could certainly be handling the removal of it more gracefully, however. The ultimate solution would probably be to program the scaler in the box to do exactly what you are using the VXP to do, instead of just blanking out those lines.


----------



## pongtip

Hi everyone

I'm in Thailand. I've just got a new Anthem D2v 5 days. Everything work just fine when I got it. Then I connected it to my laptop and ran auto setup. Every thing OK didn't have any problem. After I opened it up again the menu page fail and couldn't use on screen. The signal like incomplete and had bad signal. Sometime it's reappeare and work good, but after turn the D2v off and open it up it lost again. So I can control it just on the machine display. Anyway the Video Processing menu (press numeric 7 for 3sec) could show on screen and didn't have any problems at all. I tested many ways such as changed the port from HDMI to S-video, change the many type of monitor or even use the scaler, up new firmware and didn't work any more. I told the dealer and they said have to mail to the company first and I'm waiting for the answer. Are there anyone have the problem like me? Or anyone have a good suggestion let me know,please. Thank you for your help.









Dr.Aek


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pongtip* /forum/post/19464127
> 
> 
> Hi everyone
> 
> I'm in Thailand. I've just got a new Anthem D2v 5 days. Everything work just fine when I got it. Then I connected it to my laptop and ran auto setup. Every thing OK didn't have any problem. After I opened it up again the menu page fail and couldn't use on screen. ...... Are there anyone have the problem like me? Or anyone have a good suggestion let me know,please. Thank you for your help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dr.Aek



Something similar happened to me when I got my first D2v. The first couple of days the menu was fine. Then it would come up for a minute or two but then slowly become garbled to the point of being a total mess and unreadable. Finally, it would just start up garbled and was totally unusable. I could still use the front of the display to do setup which was better than nothing but a PITA. I had my choice of having the dealer swap out boards or getting an entirely new unit from Anthem so I went with the new unit route. The replacement unit has been fine.


----------



## pongtip




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/19464369
> 
> 
> Something similar happened to me when I got my first D2v. The first couple of days the menu was fine. Then it would come up for a minute or two but then slowly become garbled to the point of being a total mess and unreadable. Finally, it would just start up garbled and was totally unusable. I could still use the front of the display to do setup which was better than nothing but a PITA. I had my choice of having the dealer swap out boards or getting an entirely new unit from Anthem so I went with the new unit route. The replacement unit has been fine.



So cool with your dealer. Anyway I am waiting for the responsible of my dealer. Thank you so much for your comment


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pongtip* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So cool with your dealer. Anyway I am waiting for the responsible of my dealer. Thank you so much for your comment



There are two possibilities, first that your firmware install is not quite right and second that you have a hardware failure of the video board. The Setup menu (but NOT the Video Source Adjust menu) is an internally generated S-Video source. So if the S-Video input hardware is going bad you can lose the Setup menu and also any other S-Video input sources.


You can try reloading the firmware while waiting to hear back from Anthem and your dealer about a swap out.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matted* /forum/post/19463881
> 
> 
> Unfortunately for enthusiasts like us, what percentage of Rogers' customer base do you think is made up of people displaying 1:1 pixels out of their STBs?



No one reported it... smallest issue imaginable though your offer to look into it is appreciated just the same. I very much doubt I would have noticed anything if not for playing with custom settings.


ETA: You might know about http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/ but just in case, check out mind-bogglingly informative posts by "57", the Bob Pariseau of STB discussions.


----------



## jayray

Tried setting the sub high pass filter to FLAT in ARC and got a little more pant moving LFE. Used Hurt Locker and WOTW BD. For anyone with a very good LFE producing sub, it might be worth a try.

John


----------



## pongtip

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
There are two possibilities, first that your firmware install is not quite right and second that you have a hardware failure of the video board. The Setup menu (but NOT the Video Source Adjust menu) is an internally generated S-Video source. So if the S-Video input hardware is going bad you can lose the Setup menu and also any other S-Video input sources.


You can try reloading the firmware while waiting to hear back from Anthem and your dealer about a swap out.

--Bob
Thank you Bob, anyway I tested both HDMI and S-video but had the same result. Then tried to up firmware many times and nothing happened at all. So now waiting for dealer anwser.


----------



## nugga22

I'm beginning to look into purchasing either a D2V or an AVM50V, any recommendations on a dealer in the Central PA region (Harrisburg area) or the Philly area? I've contacted a local dealer, but I wasn't impressed with the quotes I received.


PMs are welcome so as to not derail this thread.


----------



## buckley44

can the newest version of arc be used with the d2,


----------



## Shrike645

Quote:

Originally Posted by *buckley44* 
can the newest version of arc be used with the d2,
Yes. It can be used on all units.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *buckley44*
can the newest version of arc be used with the d2,
Yes. And your D2 firmware should be V1.33 or a later "test" release.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A reminder to folks with older Anthem processors who happen to be coming from really old ARC versions like ARC V1.1: About the time Anthem figured out how to offer an ARC upgrade for the original AVM 50, they change the install location for ARC to make it clear it was no longer limited to the Statement processors.


And that means your ARC license and mic calibration file may not be where current ARC versions expect them to be on your Windows PC.


For most folks this is not an issue. You just download the ARC V3.0 stuff and install it and your previously installed license and mic calibration file just carry over from the prior install.


But here's how to make sure.


Download the ARC V3.0 install kit and unzip it. Look in the resulting folders and find the Setup.exe program (the installer itself).


Now go to your original ARC install CD, or go to the Anthem folder in Windows > Program Files if you've lost that CD, and find your ARC license and mic calibration files. They are easy to spot as their names are made up of numbers: The serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC mic.


Copy both of those files into the same location as the Setup.exe installer program for ARC V3.0, and then run Setup to do the install. Your license and mic calibration file will be copied into the correct location along with the ARC application. It's safe to do this even if you are not sure whether your current ARC install is in the new location or the old location on your Windows PC.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19466320
> 
> 
> Tried setting the sub high pass filter to FLAT in ARC and got a little more pant moving LFE. Used Hurt Locker and WOTW BD. For anyone with a very good LFE producing sub, it might be worth a try.
> 
> John



+1...I agree indeed!


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Tried setting the sub high pass filter to FLAT in ARC and got a little more pant moving LFE. Used Hurt Locker and WOTW BD. For anyone with a very good LFE producing sub, it might be worth a try.



Does a Mark Seaton Submersive fall into this catergory?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Does a Mark Seaton Submersive fall into this catergory?



I don't know anything about this sub. If it can go below 20Hz loudly, then try the advanced setting.

John


----------



## studlygoorite

Does this affect us when setting levels for ARC?


http://www.svsound.com/questions-faqs-rscomp.cfm


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does this affect us when setting levels for ARC?
> 
> http://www.svsound.com/questions-faqs-rscomp.cfm



No, it can be done after you measure. That's what I did.

John


----------



## ninja12

I know ARC zero outs the volume trims for each speaker when it's preparing to run. Does ARC disregard the current crossover for each speaker from the previous run of ARC and just figures out a new crossover after the run is complete? For example, say my current crossover, from my previous run of ARC, is 60 Hz. Does ARC use the previous crossover when it's figuring out a new solution or does ARC disregard the previous crossover completely when it's doing the measurements and determines a new crossover at the end? I'm thinking the latter; but, I just want to get confirmation.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19470954
> 
> 
> I know ARC zero outs the volume trims for each speaker when it's preparing to run. Does ARC disregard the current crossover for each speaker from the previous run of ARC and just figures out a new crossover after the run is complete? For example, say my current crossover, from my previous run of ARC, is 60 Hz. Does ARC use the previous crossover when it's figuring out a new solution or does ARC disregard the previous crossover completely when it's doing the measurements and determines a new crossover at the end? I'm thinking the latter; but, I just want to get confirmation.



ARC zeros everything for it's measurements. It does not use any previous values.Note it zeros everything for it's quick measure too and does not restore. You need to reload your values if you want to go back to what you had before a quick measure.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know ARC zero outs the volume trims for each speaker when it's preparing to run. Does ARC disregard the current crossover for each speaker from the previous run of ARC and just figures out a new crossover after the run is complete? For example, say my current crossover, from my previous run of ARC, is 60 Hz. Does ARC use the previous crossover when it's figuring out a new solution or does ARC disregard the previous crossover completely when it's doing the measurements and determines a new crossover at the end? I'm thinking the latter; but, I just want to get confirmation.



I believe it is the latter. Seems to make sense to start fresh.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19471293
> 
> 
> ARC zeros everything for it's measurements. It does not use any previous values.Note it zeros everything for it's quick measure too and does not restore. You need to reload your values if you want to go back to what you had before a quick measure.



Yes, that's what I thought. Thanks for the confirmation.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19471298
> 
> 
> I believe it is the latter. Seems to make sense to start fresh.
> 
> John



And the same to you jayray. jayray, since you have the sub25 and PBK, do you know if PBK looks at your crossover that's set in your D2v or does it disregard the crossover when you EQ your sub? I'm asking because when I turn off the crossover for my fronts and EQ my sub, my chart looks extremely good from 15 Hz out to 160 Hz. When I set my crossover to like 80 Hz for example, my charts change near the crossover. Above the 80 Hz, the chart drops. I guess that's expected because the fronts are handling anything above 80 Hz. It's not a drop off the cliff; but, it's not as high as the frequencies 80 Hz and above.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's what I thought. Thanks for the confirmation.
> 
> 
> And the same to you jayray. jayray, since you have the sub25 and PBK, do you know if PBK looks at your crossover that's set in your D2v or does it disregard the crossover when you EQ your sub? I'm asking because when I turn off the crossover for my fronts and EQ my sub, my chart looks extremely good from 15 Hz out to 160 Hz. When I set my crossover to like 80 Hz for example, my charts change near the crossover. Above the 80 Hz, the chart drops. I guess that's expected because the fronts are handling anything above 80 Hz. It's not a drop off the cliff; but, it's not as high as the frequencies 80 Hz and above.



PBK is done in the sub and has nothing to do with the preamp or receiver. ARC will determine the crossovers when it hears the PBK sub solution during a new measurement.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19471502
> 
> 
> PBK is done in the sub and has nothing to do with the preamp or receiver. ARC will determine the crossovers when it hears the PBK sub solution during a new measurement.
> 
> John



Ok. So, PBK is done strictly between your sub and the PC? The processor is not involved in anyway when you execute PBK? You just upload the results into your processor once PBK is complete?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Ok. So, PBK is done strictly between your sub and the PC? The processor is not involved in anyway when you execute PBK? You just upload the results into your processor once PBK is complete?



PBK solution resides in the subs DSP processor. The D2v has no clue you did PBK. Once you run ARC, it will hear your sub's response after PBK and come up with a solution you then upload into your Anthem preamp.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19466320
> 
> 
> Tried setting the sub high pass filter to FLAT in ARC and got a little more pant moving LFE. Used Hurt Locker and WOTW BD. For anyone with a very good LFE producing sub, it might be worth a try.
> 
> John



For some reason I don't understand.

Explain exactly what and how you are setting the sub high pass filter to zero in Arc.

And when you do that, what do you do with the R/L Front crossover.

This sounds like something I might want to try.


Thanks in advance for clearly my mind on this.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> For some reason I don't understand.
> 
> Explain exactly what and how you are setting the sub high pass filter to zero in Arc.
> 
> And when you do that, what do you do with the R/L Front crossover.
> 
> This sounds like something I might want to try.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for clearly my mind on this.



Go into your ARC file and open target window. Click on advanced and in the top left hand side there is a value you can change called Sub High Pass. It is probably set by default to Auto. Change it to FLAT. This only matters if your sub can play loud below 20 Hz.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19471821
> 
> 
> For some reason I don't understand.
> 
> Explain exactly what and how you are setting the sub high pass filter to zero in Arc.
> 
> And when you do that, what do you do with the R/L Front crossover.
> 
> This sounds like something I might want to try.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for clearly my mind on this.



The "high pass filter" Jayray is talking about is the OTHER end of the sub's response -- how it rolls off at the lowest, subsonic frequencies. Changing that roll off down there will have no effect on how the sub blends with the main speakers since that all happens higher up in frequency.


"High pass" for the sub means higher frequencies (e.g., 30 Hz) are passed and lower frequencies (e.g., 15 Hz) are attenuated.


The crossover for the sub, on the other hand, is a "low pass" filter. Lower frequencies (e.g. 60Hz) are passed and higher frequencies (e.g., 120 Hz) are attenuated.


Meanwhile the crossover for a main speaker is a "high pass" filter. Confused yet?


The fine details of the sub response adjustments are handled with the new settings at the bottom of the Targets window in ARC V3.0.


For my setup I prefer ARC's default choices to the "flat" option. My sub is a THX Ultra 2 sub and goes quite deep. Its internal high pass filter kicks in below 15Hz. Nevertheless, I still find I'm happier with the little bit of rolloff ARC is providing down there.


----------



## mookie b

I'm considering getting an AVM50v, and want to know if the hdmi bugs I read about in reviews have been fixed...I would assume through firmware updates.


I just sold off my Arcam AVR600, due to these issues, so I just want to make sure the the AVM doesn't have the same problems (like no audio when powering on, freezing, etc...)


Any other feedback for a potential owner?


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks who are getting ARC V3.0 charts that show the solution being at or below 60dB SPL even though you find you are still using the same volume settings when listening to normal content as with your prior ARC version's 75dB solution, I'm curious what version of Windows you are using?


I have a theory that this is a chart error due to the version of Windows, and that the solution itself is really still a 75dB solution.


I'm using Windows XP Home Edition, and do not have this problem. My ARC V3.0 charts show volumes pretty close to just what I would expect. And the volume settings I use in normal listening confirm that.


Is anybody having the problem with XP? Which version of XP? Or is the problem just on Vista or on Windows 7?

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19471686
> 
> 
> PBK solution resides in the subs DSP processor. The D2v has no clue you did PBK. Once you run ARC, it will hear your sub's response after PBK and come up with a solution you then upload into your Anthem preamp.
> 
> John



When you run PBK, the only sound you are hearing is from your sub right? For me, which I have the Velodyne DD-18, the fronts are on too so that I can see how the sub is behaving with the fronts. However, I can turn the amp off for the fronts and just look at what the sub is doing which is what I do. At the end, I turn on the fronts so that I can see how the front and the subs blend together and then do a little more tweaking if it's needed.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19472260
> 
> 
> For folks who are getting ARC V3.0 charts that show the solution being at or below 60dB SPL even though you find you are still using the same volume settings when listening to normal content as with your prior ARC version's 75dB solution, I'm curious what version of Windows you are using?
> 
> 
> I have a theory that this is a chart error due to the version of Windows, and that the solution itself is really still a 75dB solution.
> 
> 
> I'm using Windows XP Home Edition, and do not have this problem. My ARC V3.0 charts show volumes pretty close to just what I would expect. And the volume settings I use in normal listening confirm that.
> 
> 
> Is anybody having the problem with XP? Which version of XP? Or is the problem just on Vista or on Windows 7?
> 
> --Bob



I'm running XP Pro. My test tone volume is set to +7 in order for me to achieve 75 db. However, when I break out the old Rat Shack SPL Meter and take a measurement from my main listening position, it's showing up as 83 db which is kind of surprising I guess.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The question is, when you get 75 on the V3.0 charts (by tweaking Test Level) do you end up using the same Main volume for normal listening as when you got 75 on older ARC charts?


Or do you have to lower the volume now because your 75 V3.0 solution is really louder than it should be? I.e, the 75 on the chart is now more like 83 than 75 in normal use?


I don't have to do that. The 72 in my charts seems to be a "real" 72dB solution.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> When you run PBK, the only sound you are hearing is from your sub right? For me, which I have the Velodyne DD-18, the fronts are on too so that I can see how the sub is behaving with the fronts. However, I can turn the amp off for the fronts and just look at what the sub is doing which is what I do. At the end, I turn on the fronts so that I can see how the front and the subs blend together and then do a little more tweaking if it's needed.



PBK is for Paradigm DSP subs not for other Manufacturers.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19472305
> 
> 
> When you run PBK, the only sound you are hearing is from your sub right? For me, which I have the Velodyne DD-18, the fronts are on too so that I can see how the sub is behaving with the fronts. However, I can turn the amp off for the fronts and just look at what the sub is doing which is what I do. At the end, I turn on the fronts so that I can see how the front and the subs blend together and then do a little more tweaking if it's needed.



My experience with the Velodyne EQ is that it is easy, almost trivial, to achieve any sub response curve you want at any SINGLE MIC LOCATION.


However if you want to get good sub response across the seating area -- i.e., at multiple mic locations -- it is a bear. Forget about using their automated setup. Fixed, equally spaced, parametric filter frequencies just don't cut it.


Now if you do a manual solution with their EQ -- which lets you change the parametric filters in ways the automated solution won't -- you *CAN* get a clean result across the seating area. But it is a colossal effort. In my case I spent, quite literally, weeks on it.


There's a post link from me on the first page of this thread describing some of that long slog.


The thing is, you are making compromises all the time, and you need to do a lot of listening to the same content over and over again to find out which compromises are working and which are screwing up.


With the very first ARC release -- which was nowhere near as good as the current ARC release -- the first automated, completely un-tweaked, result from ARC blew away the best manual solution I had achieved with the Velodyne EQ. It was no contest. And when I went back with the Velodyne mic to see how ARC's solution did at various mic positions I found the charted curves from the Velodyne looked just as clean as the best, multi-location result I could get manually using the Velodyne EQ. And the AUDIBLE bass result was far superior.


Now of course some of the audible difference is due to the fact that ARC is also correcting the mains which means the bass blend from mains into the sub is improved. But still.


I've never gone back to using the Velodyne EQ. ARC does what I need.


If my room was such that I *HAD* to use the Velodyne EQ (with ARC on top of that) due to the degree of correction needed, I suspect I would simply use the automated Velodyne EQ -- which I know isn't perfect by any means, but would likely get me "close enough" that ARC could take it from there.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19472009
> 
> 
> The "high pass filter" Jayray is talking about is the OTHER end of the sub's response -- how it rolls off at the lowest, subsonic frequencies. Changing that roll off down there will have no effect on how the sub blends with the main speakers since that all happens higher up in frequency.
> 
> 
> "High pass" for the sub means higher frequencies (e.g., 30 Hz) are passed and lower frequencies (e.g., 15 Hz) are attenuated.
> 
> 
> The crossover for the sub, on the other hand, is a "low pass" filter. Lower frequencies (e.g. 60Hz) are passed and higher frequencies (e.g., 120 Hz) are attenuated.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile the crossover for a main speaker is a "high pass" filter. Confused yet?
> 
> 
> The fine details of the sub response adjustments are handled with the new settings at the bottom of the Targets window in ARC V3.0.
> 
> 
> For my setup I prefer ARC's default choices to the "flat" option. My sub is a THX Ultra 2 sub and goes quite deep. Its internal high pass filter kicks in below 15Hz. Nevertheless, I still find I'm happier with the little bit of rolloff ARC is providing down there.



I have noticed a bit more feel now with that change but no ill effects. It was a suggestion from Nick for those who have capable subs. It is easy to try and then you can decide. Just another way to hopefully squeeze out a little more from our subs









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19472811
> 
> 
> I have noticed a bit more feel now with that change but no ill effects. It was a suggestion from Nick for those who have capable subs. It is easy to try and then you can decide. Just another way to hopefully squeeze out a little more from our subs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I'm waiting for DRHANKZ to get off his duff and try ARC V3.0 with his "low rider" style pneumatic floor pounders -- response down to 4Hz as I recall. "Flat" from ARC will probably launch him out of his seat.









--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19472846
> 
> 
> I'm waiting for DRHANKZ to get off his duff and try ARC V3.0 with his "low rider" style pneumatic floor pounders -- response down to 4Hz as I recall. "Flat" from ARC will probably launch him out of his seat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



OH NO - you want me to try something new - Then Come on Over


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19472846
> 
> 
> I'm waiting for DRHANKZ to get off his duff and try ARC V3.0 with his "low rider" style pneumatic floor pounders -- response down to 4Hz as I recall. "Flat" from ARC will probably launch him out of his seat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Now that put a big laugh in my belly. I tried to picture it but I need a picture of the good dr.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19472913
> 
> 
> OH NO - you want me to try something new - Then Come on Over



I think Bob and I need to come over to see if we can persuade you to try the new ARC. I'm not that far, but don't know about Bob.









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19473137
> 
> 
> I think Bob and I need to come over to see if we can persuade you to try the new ARC. I'm not that far, but don't know about Bob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I think you guys are about equal distances


----------



## Mark Seaton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19469722
> 
> 
> Does a Mark Seaton Submersive fall into this catergory?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19470314
> 
> 
> I don't know anything about this sub. If it can go below 20Hz loudly, then try the advanced setting.
> 
> John



Yes, please do set the ARC high pass to "flat", else you will significantly cut off the low extension observed in most rooms. I did this recently in helping with a local customer's setup and at first pass it appeared to work quite well. I do see real utility in ARC adding high pass frequency options down to 10Hz, but with the flat setting you can leave that to the subwoofer's electronics.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Seaton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, please do set the ARC high pass to "flat", else you will significantly cut off the low extension observed in most rooms. I did this recently in helping with a local customer's setup and at first pass it appeared to work quite well. I do see real utility in ARC adding high pass frequency options down to 10Hz, but with the flat setting you can leave that to the subwoofer's electronics.



Thanks for the confirmation Mark.

John


----------



## studlygoorite

Hey Nick;


Do we really need the long delay during power up?


John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19471878
> 
> 
> Go into your ARC file and open target window. Click on advanced and in the top left hand side there is a value you can change called Sub High Pass. It is probably set by default to Auto. Change it to FLAT. This only matters if your sub can play loud below 20 Hz.
> 
> John



Nice Jayray, thanks.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Nick;
> 
> 
> Do we really need the long delay during power up?
> 
> 
> John



Bob has explained this in several posts. I can't remember the details but the short answer is yes.

John


----------



## jayray

I have tried several more discs and can conclude that the flat high pass order is giving me some more low down feel and it is tighter. The film The Island is an HDDVD DD+ and starts with some poundng bass. This now is tighter and throughout the movie I was amazed at some of the LFE I have not noticed before that is now there. I'm sold so far.

John


----------



## buckley44

i have the original d2 and im thinking about upgrading to the d2v am i going to see that big of a difference in the audio and video, seems like alot of money for the upgrade. what i was looking for was the audio codecs but i guess i can get that through a blu ray player with analog outs going to the d2 and let it pass through or am i missing something?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19474269
> 
> 
> i have the original d2 and im thinking about upgrading to the d2v am i going to see that big of a difference in the audio and video, seems like alot of money for the upgrade. what i was looking for was the audio codecs but i guess i can get that through a blu ray player with analog outs going to the d2 and let it pass through or am i missing something?



You don't need to use the analogue outs. Have the player convert the new codecs to LPCM and send that to the D2. This is what I use.


Bob has said that he has seen and heard an improvement. How much verses cost is up to the buyer.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Seaton* /forum/post/19473456
> 
> 
> Yes, please do set the ARC high pass to "flat", else you will significantly cut off the low extension observed in most rooms. I did this recently in helping with a local customer's setup and at first pass it appeared to work quite well. I do see real utility in ARC adding high pass frequency options down to 10Hz, but with the flat setting you can leave that to the subwoofer's electronics.




Thanks for chiming in here Mark....


BTW I'm loving my new Submersive HP - good lord.... such a great looking and performing little beast...


I have been trying to suggest to Anthem to start having ARC measure and show response (not necessarily try to correct response) just a bit lower towards 10hz to at least see what the bass is looking like. With more and more truly high performance, high excursion products out on the market such as the Submersive, as well as Paradigms own Sub 1 & 2, and pretty much darn near every new high performance sub out on the market in a not so "stadium like" room are touting they can do....


It would be very helpful for those dropping the kind of money some of us seem to like to do, and not have to resort to even more equipment to see whats going on down there...


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19472260
> 
> 
> For folks who are getting ARC V3.0 charts that show the solution being at or below 60dB SPL even though you find you are still using the same volume settings when listening to normal content as with your prior ARC version's 75dB solution, I'm curious what version of Windows you are using?
> 
> 
> I have a theory that this is a chart error due to the version of Windows, and that the solution itself is really still a 75dB solution.
> 
> 
> I'm using Windows XP Home Edition, and do not have this problem. My ARC V3.0 charts show volumes pretty close to just what I would expect. And the volume settings I use in normal listening confirm that.
> 
> 
> Is anybody having the problem with XP? Which version of XP? Or is the problem just on Vista or on Windows 7?
> 
> --Bob



I'm using XP Pro on bootcamp of a Macbook Pro 13" with the keyspan usb, and getting 60 db when the RS meter with fresh battery shows test signal of 75db. Also, I notice that with 3.0 I get more failed sweeps, for one reason or another, than with past versions of ARC. Usually just says sweep failed, want to try again, and then it works. Does this about 3-4 times per set of measurements.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem Tech Support has updated the "test" ARC 3.0.1 download file on their password protected download page this evening. As best I can tell, the only change is to update the included manual for the new MRX receivers.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19474077
> 
> 
> Bob has explained this in several posts. I can't remember the details but the short answer is yes.
> 
> John




Maybe Nick knows of some cure in the making, but thanks.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19472175
> 
> 
> I'm considering getting an AVM50v, and want to know if the hdmi bugs I read about in reviews have been fixed...I would assume through firmware updates.
> 
> 
> I just sold off my Arcam AVR600, due to these issues, so I just want to make sure the the AVM doesn't have the same problems (like no audio when powering on, freezing, etc...)
> 
> 
> Any other feedback for a potential owner?
> 
> 
> Thanks.




I can only speak for the D2v but some people have been experiencing HDMI bugs, myself and my brother for starters. I just quoted my findings a few days ago where I thought my problems had gone away when I changed from a 50' HDMI cable to a 3' but I just had to reboot to fix a "no picture" from my PC and a no audio from my Direct receiver earlier today. It's not that bad and often, more of an annoyance really but I just heard of a supposed miracle cure for all HDMI issues that's an inline adapter, I'll post if it works for me.


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19474471
> 
> 
> You don't need to use the analogue outs. Have the player convert the new codecs to LPCM and send that to the D2. This is what I use.
> 
> 
> Bob has said that he has seen and heard an improvement. How much verses cost is up to the buyer.



i guess i have to check if the ps3 80g decodes the new audio codecs?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19475049
> 
> 
> i guess i have to check if the ps3 80g decodes the new audio codecs?



It does. All PS3s decode them. Only the newest PS3s also offer the option of bitstreaming them.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19474953
> 
> 
> Maybe Nick knows of some cure in the making, but thanks.



It's not really an explanation -- more of an observation. The Anthem has always muted itself for a while on power up. It looks like they simply extended that muting delay to give a better chance that HDMI input and output was all working correctly before things went live.


I imagine this was done to reduce the chance of nasty noise during power up with certain combinations of source devices and displays.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19475097
> 
> 
> It does. All PS3s decode them. Only the newest PS3s also offer the option of bitstreaming them.
> 
> --Bob



is there any benifit to bitstreaming them? and also bob, does the ps3 pass the new codecs through the d2 or does the d2 down rez it when you use hdmi people keep telling me i have to use analouge outs to use the new audio through the d2


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19475140
> 
> 
> is there any benifit to bitstreaming them? and also bob, does the ps3 pass the new codecs through the d2 or does the d2 down rez it when you use hdmi people keep telling me i have to use analouge outs to use the new audio through the d2



The correct way to use the PS3 with the D2 is to use HDMI LPCM audio from the PS3. Set the PS3 to enable all of the HDMI LPCM output formats up to 5.1 channels at up to 96KHz. (The automatic HDMI audio setup in the PS3 will do just this for you all by itself.)


That will work just fine for you.


The D2v extends HDMI audio further to allow up to 7.1 LPCM channels at up to 192KHz, as well as adding Bitstream input for the high bandwidth audio codecs. There's no important difference between Bitstream audio and LPCM audio. All the D2v does with Bitstream audio is decode it to LPCM for you.


Letting the PS3 do the decoding for you (turning lossless audio codecs into LPCM for HDMI output) works just fine.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19475189
> 
> 
> The correct way to use the PS3 with the D2 is to use HDMI LPCM audio from the PS3. Set the PS3 to enable all of the HDMI LPCM output formats up to 5.1 channels at up to 96KHz. (The automatic HDMI audio setup in the PS3 will do just this for you all by itself.)
> 
> 
> That will work just fine for you.
> 
> 
> The D2v extends HDMI audio further to allow up to 7.1 LPCM channels at up to 192KHz, as well as adding Bitstream input for the high bandwidth audio codecs. There's no important difference between Bitstream audio and LPCM audio. All the D2v does with Bitstream audio is decode it to LPCM for you.
> 
> 
> Letting the PS3 do the decoding for you (turning lossless audio codecs into LPCM for HDMI output) works just fine.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you very much for all your help,i've been out of the loop for a while because i was happy with the d2 but i got the bug again. i'll have to do a refresher on how to install the newest arc software.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19472175
> 
> 
> I'm considering getting an AVM50v, and want to know if the hdmi bugs I read about in reviews have been fixed...I would assume through firmware updates.
> 
> 
> I just sold off my Arcam AVR600, due to these issues, so I just want to make sure the the AVM doesn't have the same problems (like no audio when powering on, freezing, etc...)
> 
> 
> Any other feedback for a potential owner?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I have the 50v and can say that the HDMI issues have steadily decreased with each firmware update. It's now very rare that I run into a "no sound" or "funny color" problem. I never had any freezes. The fix is to turn off the component and turn it back on. I used to keep my fingers crossed when I switched between components, but no more.


----------



## buckley44

Bob,when i run arc for the latest software for my d2,can i just run the arc program in my new pc that i just picked up, or do i have to transfer the version that im using now over to the new pc and then run the arc? and by going into the d2 menu and saving my settings now before i run arc will that save what i have now in the case something goes wrong with the new set up. were in the thread can i find the set up procedure for the arc.


----------



## BladeRnR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19474225
> 
> 
> I have tried several more discs and can conclude that the flat high pass order is giving me some more low down feel and it is tighter. The film The Island is an HDDVD DD+ and starts with some poundng bass. This now is tighter and throughout the movie I was amazed at some of the LFE I have not noticed before that is now there. I'm sold so far.
> 
> John



I tried "Flat" tonight with Dual Submersives and the difference is frankly, night and day. Thanks for the tip Jayray - superb. I was wondering why I was missing the last 10% or so of Subwoofer performance because I know the Submersives are more than capable. Even my wife picked up on the difference










Further, bass overall is far tighter and like you I noticed sound in LFE I had not picked up on before even with tracks I've heard many times.


Cheers


Blade


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BladeRnR* /forum/post/19475881
> 
> 
> I tried "Flat" tonight with Dual Submersives and the difference is frankly, night and day. Thanks for the tip Jayray - superb. I was wondering why I was missing the last 10% or so of Subwoofer performance because I know the Submersives are more than capable. Even my wife picked up on the difference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Further, bass overall is far tighter and like you I noticed sound in LFE I had not picked up on before even with tracks I've heard many times.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Blade



If your wife noticed it then we are on to something







Great to hear there's an improvement, tweaking continues.

John


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19475821
> 
> 
> Bob,when i run arc for the latest software for my d2,can i just run the arc program in my new pc that i just picked up, or do i have to transfer the version that im using now over to the new pc and then run the arc? and by going into the d2 menu and saving my settings now before i run arc will that save what i have now in the case something goes wrong with the new set up. were in the thread can i find the set up procedure for the arc.



You will have to transfer the mic calibration files (the file name has the serial number in it) from your CD or the old PC. I would recommend getting the new program from the web. You do not have to install the old application but this will install everything for you and you can then install the new version on top and all should work. This assumes that the "old" version of ARC is newer than V1.1 which installed things in a different directory and you would have to move the mic files.


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU* /forum/post/19475770
> 
> 
> I have the 50v and can say that the HDMI issues have steadily decreased with each firmware update. It's now very rare that I run into a "no sound" or "funny color" problem. I never had any freezes. The fix is to turn off the component and turn it back on. I used to keep my fingers crossed when I switched between components, but no more.



Thanks. I picked one up on impulse yesterday. Spent the night setting it up, and love it! A TON better than the AVR's I was using as a pre-pro, and seems to provide a lot more detail than my Arcam AVR600 did. After getting it setup, I changed between my various inputs, changed channels, skipped chapters, powered on and off, and didn't have any hiccups. What a relief! It doesn't have the most recent firmware....it has 2.08, but I'll wait until I experience something weird before I update to 2.1.


Still haven't ran ARC. Not sure if I should have my dealer do it, or take a run at it myself.


Looking forward to digging into this 1000+ post thread....wow!


----------



## TJG55

Been closely following this valuable and interesting thread for years(decades?) and have not seen this discussed before. Did I miss it?

Has anyone transferred vinyl through seperate phono stage, then D-2 to A/D with USB out to computer to Ipod? Recommendations?

TJG


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19474225
> 
> 
> I have tried several more discs and can conclude that the flat high pass order is giving me some more low down feel and it is tighter. The film The Island is an HDDVD DD+ and starts with some poundng bass. This now is tighter and throughout the movie I was amazed at some of the LFE I have not noticed before that is now there. I'm sold so far.
> 
> John



I own a sub 2 from paradigm. after setting the high pass order to "flat" should I keep the min subwoofer eq at 20? and the ref level (all speakers) at "-1" . These are the ones that are default.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19476806
> 
> 
> Thanks. I picked one up on impulse yesterday. Spent the night setting it up, and love it! A TON better than the AVR's I was using as a pre-pro, and seems to provide a lot more detail than my Arcam AVR600 did. After getting it setup, I changed between my various inputs, changed channels, skipped chapters, powered on and off, and didn't have any hiccups. What a relief! It doesn't have the most recent firmware....it has 2.08, but I'll wait until I experience something weird before I update to 2.1.
> 
> 
> Still haven't ran ARC. Not sure if I should have my dealer do it, or take a run at it myself.
> 
> 
> Looking forward to digging into this 1000+ post thread....wow!



Congrats







You should try ARC yourself, nothing to it but read the post at the beginning of this thread where BOB makes recommendations on how to perform the measurments. Easy to do and fun to see the results. Eventually you'll use ARC to tweak away









John


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19476806
> 
> 
> Thanks. I picked one up on impulse yesterday. Spent the night setting it up, and love it! A TON better than the AVR's I was using as a pre-pro, and seems to provide a lot more detail than my Arcam AVR600 did. After getting it setup, I changed between my various inputs, changed channels, skipped chapters, powered on and off, and didn't have any hiccups. What a relief! It doesn't have the most recent firmware....it has 2.08, but I'll wait until I experience something weird before I update to 2.1.
> 
> 
> Still haven't ran ARC. Not sure if I should have my dealer do it, or take a run at it myself.
> 
> 
> Looking forward to digging into this 1000+ post thread....wow!



Give ARC a go. It's quite simple for the basics. Take all the defaults, post your charts here if you like. You can always turn it off in the setup menu if you don't like it but I'm betting you will hear an big improvement.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Discussion of the Anthem MRX Receivers now has a new home!*


Check it out!

Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700, 900 & Tweaking Guide 


If you are interested in these new Receivers, be there or be square.


All things specific to the receivers should be discussed over there, however if folks want to continue discussing ARC tweaking in this thread even for the MRX units, that's fine, too. Due to the hardware in the MRX units, there are certain limitations in what you can do with ARC tweaking for them, so there's some modest potential for confusion. But for the most part the sorts of things we are used to doing with ARC for the prepros will carry over to the Receivers as well.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19476976
> 
> 
> I own a sub 2 from paradigm. after setting the high pass order to "flat" should I keep the min subwoofer eq at 20? and the ref level (all speakers) at "-1" . These are the ones that are default.



I left everything else at default. That's what I would recommend.

John


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Bob et all... what do you think?


I just got in a sub 2 and re-measured everything. I have not used the PBK that came with sub 2. Thus far i have just used the most recent ARC version (3). I have a peak at 20 hz and then a null that averages out between 50 and 100hz.


Interestingly this arc version (the other change in the system is the new sub 2 which replaced two infinity prelude mts subs) has now assigned a room gain of 3 where prior to this the room gain assignment was less than 1.


As you can see the cut offs are all at 115 and 120 for the sub. The uploaded crossovers are at 115 for everything sub 2 included.


The peak and nulls are not horrible. I am wondering if it is worth the effort of combining PBK with ARC or not.


THanks for your input.


-Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19476976
> 
> 
> I own a sub 2 from paradigm. after setting the high pass order to "flat" should I keep the min subwoofer eq at 20? and the ref level (all speakers) at "-1" . These are the ones that are default.



20 is as low as ARC allows you to go and that setting is grayed out when you select Flat or Auto


----------



## CerberusII

First off, I would like to say thank you to everyone, especially Bob, for all of their time and effort in providing their input and assistance. This thread has been very informative, and actually let me to becoming the proud owner of an AVM50v. Does that make me one of the cool kids??










I have a couple questions for Bob.


1. Does the speaker distance set up have any effect on ARC? I didn't set this up prior to running ARC.


2. I have the Klipsch THX Ultra2 7.2 speakers (dual 12 subs with external amp). I have the external sub amp set to THX mode. This bypasses the internal crossover and level controls as it assumes that you are using a THX processor to take care of those. The thing I found odd was that I had to set the sub test level to -12 in order to get the tone down to 75db. Does this make sense? The room is 19x14x10 and has wall treatment.


I have posted my ARC graphs. Please let me know if they look okay, an make any suggestions you may have.

One note: ARC assigned 1.49 room gain, which I changed manually to 2.49 as per your recommendation that between 2 and 3 is optimal.


Thank You very much.

-Chris


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CerberusII* /forum/post/19479180
> 
> 
> First off, I would like to say thank you to everyone, especially Bob, for all of their time and effort in providing their input and assistance. This thread has been very informative, and actually let me to becoming the proud owner of an AVM50v. Does that make me one of the cool kids??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Chris



Only Cool Kids get Mascots







































Now you are crowned COOL


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19479114
> 
> 
> Bob et all... what do you think?
> 
> 
> I just got in a sub 2 and re-measured everything. I have not used the PBK that came with sub 2. Thus far i have just used the most recent ARC version (3). I have a peak at 20 hz and then a null that averages out between 50 and 100hz.
> 
> 
> Interestingly this arc version (the other change in the system is the new sub 2 which replaced two infinity prelude mts subs) has now assigned a room gain of 3 where prior to this the room gain assignment was less than 1.
> 
> 
> As you can see the cut offs are all at 115 and 120 for the sub. The uploaded crossovers are at 115 for everything sub 2 included.
> 
> 
> The peak and nulls are not horrible. I am wondering if it is worth the effort of combining PBK with ARC or not.
> 
> 
> THanks for your input.
> 
> 
> -Bob



Go to http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=637 

Here you can see what doing a RBK first followed by Arc will result in for

a Sub 2


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19479169
> 
> 
> 20 is as low as ARC allows you to go and that setting is grayed out when you select Flat or Auto



THanks. The min setting is not grayed out for me. but your are right it will not go below 20


----------



## jpoet

I am sure that Anthem will be charging for the HDMI 1.4 upgrade, but is there any grace period? In other words, if I buy a D2v now, will I be close enough to the HDMI 1.4 launch to avoid the upgrade charge?


I would guess the answer is, that no such grace period exists --- if I wanted the HDMI 1.4 that I would need to wait until it is ready to buy the D2v.


I currently have no desire for HDMI 1.4, but I might sometime in the future. It would be a little annoying to buy the D2v now only to have to pay more for that upgrade later, knowing that I could have just waited a few months to save that charge.


I am still happy with my Anthem AVM20v2, but the itch to upgrade has been getting stronger.



John


----------



## clwhitlock




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19472260
> 
> 
> For folks who are getting ARC V3.0 charts that show the solution being at or below 60dB SPL even though you find you are still using the same volume settings when listening to normal content as with your prior ARC version's 75dB solution, I'm curious what version of Windows you are using?
> 
> 
> I have a theory that this is a chart error due to the version of Windows, and that the solution itself is really still a 75dB solution.
> 
> 
> I'm using Windows XP Home Edition, and do not have this problem. My ARC V3.0 charts show volumes pretty close to just what I would expect. And the volume settings I use in normal listening confirm that.
> 
> 
> Is anybody having the problem with XP? Which version of XP? Or is the problem just on Vista or on Windows 7?
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I reported a few days ago a 64db chart solution and my reaction was to ignore the chart and just enjoy the results at the previous volume settings. I am using XP Pro.


----------



## SimonNo10

Received my 3rd D2v unit last night as well as an Epson TW-3200 projector and had that installed. Just ran ARC this morning with no issues to report first time it smoothly where as the previous 2 units I got a blue screen when it uploaded the parameters. I bought a new serial cable, new HDMI cables etc to rule everything out.


Please refer to the graphs and let me know your thoughts. I set the sub to Flat in advanced as per Mark Seaton's suggestion. Looking forward to sitting back and enjoying some movies.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Received my 3rd D2v unit last night as well as an Epson TW-3200 projector and had that installed. Just ran ARC this morning with no issues to report first time it smoothly where as the previous 2 units I got a blue screen when it uploaded the parameters. I bought a new serial cable, new HDMI cables etc to rule everything out.
> 
> 
> Please refer to the graphs and let me know your thoughts. I set the sub to Flat in advanced as per Mark Seaton's suggestion. Looking forward to sitting back and enjoying some movies.



You have a large dip in 75db range which is likely a positioning problem. Use the quick measure utility in ARC to find a spot that lifts the measured curve in that area. Then run ARC again.

John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> You have a large dip in 75db range which is likely a positioning problem



Sorry not sure I follow what your saying. Are you talking about the whole system or a specific speaker? I have changed nothing in regards to speaker positioning from my previous graphs and units and no one mentioned this before (not disputing what your saying of course). Is it because the target curves aren't measuring 75db and more like 70db? Sorry I can't interpret these grahs as well as others and don't see the issue other than that.


Also my line level is -11.5db (to read 75db on my analog spl meter) so if that's the case what is my reference volume now is it -11.5? and not "0" on the main volume dial. The system is loud at -16db on the main volume


I just tried some scenes in 2 movies Hulk and Ironman 2 and it sounded incredible, best I've heard my system.


----------



## xMEATx

^^^. I am trying to figure out how to read the arc charts, so when you say there is a drop around 75, are you talking about his sub chart?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19480176
> 
> 
> Sorry not sure I follow what your saying. Are you talking about the whole system or a specific speaker? I have changed nothing in regards to speaker positioning from my previous graphs and units and no one mentioned this before (not disputing what your saying of course). Is it because the target curves aren't measuring 75db and more like 70db? Sorry I can't interpret these grahs as well as others and don't see the issue other than that.
> 
> 
> Also my line level is -11.5db (to read 75db on my analog spl meter) so if that's the case what is my reference volume now is it -11.5? and not "0" on the main volume dial. The system is loud at -16db on the main volume
> 
> 
> I just tried some scenes in 2 movies Hulk and Ironman 2 and it sounded incredible, best I've heard my system.



Sorry, I was referring to the sub. Depending on your sub, I think this can be improved by different positioning. You are down around 4-10 dB from 100 Hz to 75 Hz. If you can get this measured curve up to around 70 dB I suspect your LFE impact will improve noticeably. It did for me when I had a somewhat more severe dip that was transformed by moving the sub from the front right corner, up the right wall about 8ft. toward the seating area. Unbelievable transformantion. Now sounds like a theatre with tremendous impact punch.

John


----------



## Mark Seaton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19480176
> 
> 
> Sorry not sure I follow what your saying. Are you talking about the whole system or a specific speaker? I have changed nothing in regards to speaker positioning from my previous graphs and units and no one mentioned this before (not disputing what your saying of course). Is it because the target curves aren't measuring 75db and more like 70db? Sorry I can't interpret these grahs as well as others and don't see the issue other than that.
> 
> 
> Also my line level is -11.5db (to read 75db on my analog spl meter) so if that's the case what is my reference volume now is it -11.5? and not "0" on the main volume dial. The system is loud at -16db on the main volume
> 
> 
> I just tried some scenes in 2 movies Hulk and Ironman 2 and it sounded incredible, best I've heard my system.



Hi Simon,


I believe jayray meant the dip observed around 75Hz. I would agree it might be worth checking other locations. Be sure to not change any level settings while measuring in different locations to see the relative efficiency vs. frequency of each location. Given the response of the main speakers below 100Hz I'm not surprised it sounds quite good, but you might want to continue experimenting with either the current sub location and a slightly lower crossover for your LCR, or a different location that has a bit less recession in the upper subwoofer range. If you raise up the sub level a bit after the ARC setting is, the current location might make a lot of sense, but it's worth experimenting with as it costs nothing but time. Enjoy!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19480195
> 
> 
> ^^^. I am trying to figure out how to read the arc charts, so when you say there is a drop around 75, are you talking about his sub chart?



Yes, 75 Hz region. Curve should be smooth but it dips in this region. Moving sub may help to negate this dip.

John


----------



## jamulian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19471878
> 
> 
> Go into your ARC file and open target window. Click on advanced and in the top left hand side there is a value you can change called Sub High Pass. It is probably set by default to Auto. Change it to FLAT. This only matters if your sub can play loud below 20 Hz.
> 
> John



I am new at this and have the AVM 50v ver 2.08. I would like to try this flat setting on my sub. Do I make the setting in the AVM 50v or when I am running ARC? Thank you.


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/19480361
> 
> 
> I am new at this and have the AVM 50v ver 2.08. I would like to try this flat setting on my sub. Do I make the setting in the AVM 50v or when I am running ARC? Thank you.




I believe you make this setting in ARC before you run the sweeps....


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/19480361
> 
> 
> I am new at this and have the AVM 50v ver 2.08. I would like to try this flat setting on my sub. Do I make the setting in the AVM 50v or when I am running ARC? Thank you.



You can change the setting after your measurement; in the target window, select advanced and then set the sub high pass to FLAT and nothing else. Upload this file to the preamp. I tested some more today and the feel is now palpable unlike anything I felt before. If using pbk you can do the same ie. change it after a mesurement and then upload the changed file.

You will notice that before doing a measurement you can't do much in the target window and for this tweak, it can't be done until you finish the measurement.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/19480393
> 
> 
> I believe you make this setting in ARC before you run the sweeps....



Have you tried this yet?









John


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks for the responses and suggestions. I'm very limited to positioning the sub as the room isn't large. I did move the sub from the right side wall to having it on the right but not along side of the wall. May have to post pics to explain the room layout and perhaps then you guys could suggest a better position.


Also with that dip (red line) hasn't ARC corrected this going by the green line which follows the target curve? The thing is I'm part of the Aussie Submersive group buy Mark over on DTV so will be running 2 soon so that will prove a challenge in positioning.


What I will do is post some pics of the room so you and others can assist in the positioning. Also I've never used the quick measure tool so whats the procedure in doing this? I've heard that you should put the actual sub near the main listening position and place the Mic in different positions to find out which give the best result. Is this correct?



> Quote:
> I believe you make this setting in ARC before you run the sweeps



What I did and hope it's correct is ran ARC saved the calibration then went into advanced and changed the setting from auto to Flat then pressed calculate then uploaded the measurements. Will this achieve the same result?


----------



## MACCA350

I've been playing with the flat setting since v3.0

There seems to be a trend where the output below 25Hz is not actually flat, you can see it in the posted graphs, it increases.

Looks like ARC is not applying filters down there to flatten the response in this flat mode. In other modes you can see ARC does apply filters down there.


I plan to run a few tests to pin down what's going on, but a work around may be to reduce the sub output by the measured difference to bring that sub 25Hz reigon into line with the rest of the adjusted response......only issue here may be for those with quite uneven pre ARC response.


If anyone has a graph that produces a sub 25Hz reduction in this flat mode, please post.


The problem with a resulting sub 25Hz boost is a reduction in overall output in certain circumstances as those lowest frequencies will be driving the amp and driver to it's limits at a lower volume when low Hz content is present.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10

Good work mate. So in my situation should I set it back to Auto, save it and then upload and test some material? Or do I have to redo ARC with the auto set as default?


Also just changed all speakers to 80hz and increased room gain to 1.5 (to see what effect it has) and sub setting set to auto. Let me know hows things look


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19480541
> 
> 
> Good work mate. So in my situation should I set it back to auto save it and then upload and test some material?
> 
> 
> Also just changed all speakers to 80hz and increased room gain to 1.5 (to see what effect it has) and sub setting set to auto. Let me know hows things look



No harm in running it in flat if the SubM isn't being driven into clipping. The only thing is your sub 25Hz is being boosted relative to the rest of the range.......preference or reference.


Looking at both those graphs it seems ARC is acting the same in both modes. Looks like in auto mode for you arc is not applying a high pass filter and is applying the flat mode, otherwise you would see a rolloff in the target curve. So for you there is no difference in either mode, ignoring the room gain applied.


You could try reducing the sub output by ~4dB(no room gain) or ~3dB(with that room gain) and remeasure.

The only thing is ARC may readjust the level prior to applying filters making this change irrelevant, I haven't checked this yet. If this is the case, or something similar, the fix will need to be done in ARC's programing..........Audyssey had a similar issue due to it's post filter level adjustment, caused a 10dB boost below the rolloff frequency for some causing subs to bottom out at lower volumes when compared to pre Audyssey. Not sure if Chris fixed this in later versions.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks for that. Will leave it as it is as it sounds excellent to me until I get the 2nd submersive and get you over







. Still require an answer please anyone, for my question regarding the Line Level value. Mine had to be set to -11.5db to achieve 75db reading on the spl meter. Does this value become my reference value on the Anthem via the main volume or is "0" still reference?


----------



## mookie b

Ran ARC tonight for the first time. VERY NICE!


I just have a few quirks left, all relating to my Harmony 1100 remote. Every function works, except I can't change inputs on the processor when I switch activities. It looked like there were commands for DVD1, DVD2, DVD3, etc...but they didn't work when I tried. The AVM50v just stays on the same input. Anybody figure this out?


And one other in regards to the remote....when I volume up or down, it goes like 2.5db either way....instead of .5 like I think it should.


I'd appreciate any help....my head is hurting from running back and forth from my theater room to the computer trying different options!


----------



## CharlieU

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mookie b* 
Thanks. I picked one up on impulse yesterday. Spent the night setting it up, and love it! A TON better than the AVR's I was using as a pre-pro, and seems to provide a lot more detail than my Arcam AVR600 did. After getting it setup, I changed between my various inputs, changed channels, skipped chapters, powered on and off, and didn't have any hiccups. What a relief! It doesn't have the most recent firmware....it has 2.08, but I'll wait until I experience something weird before I update to 2.1.


Still haven't ran ARC. Not sure if I should have my dealer do it, or take a run at it myself.


Looking forward to digging into this 1000+ post thread....wow!
Release 2.08 is a good one. I think it was the last one before they incorporated Dolby Volume. ARC is pretty easy to run and makes a big difference in the quality of the sound. The latest version is the best ever, so download it off the Anthem site instead of using the one on the CD that came with your 50v. You will need the calibration files for your mic and 50v that are on the CD though. Be aware as you read through the posts that though most of them talk about the D2v, they are applicable to your 50v also.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mookie b*
Ran ARC tonight for the first time. VERY NICE!


I just have a few quirks left, all relating to my Harmony 1100 remote. Every function works, except I can't change inputs on the processor when I switch activities. It looked like there were commands for DVD1, DVD2, DVD3, etc...but they didn't work when I tried. The AVM50v just stays on the same input. Anybody figure this out?


And one other in regards to the remote....when I volume up or down, it goes like 2.5db either way....instead of .5 like I think it should.


I'd appreciate any help....my head is hurting from running back and forth from my theater room to the computer trying different options!
I have a D1, it has been years since I messed with the remote programming. Best I remember the sub inputs required a second code to access, not just cycling thru the inputs. This presumes they are accessible by pressing the front panel button repeatably, initially they are disabled.


----------



## husker du

Hey there:


Sorry to interrupt the current thread.


I am looking for some advice regarding upgrading my home theatre.


I currently have a D2v, and Paradigm studio monitors (7.1, Sub 15), no changes planned here yet.


On the amplification end I am running two Harman Kardon Citation 22 (circa 1988) amplifiers in mono mode, each powering one main channel. For the center, surround and rears I am using the amplifier section of a Yamaha receiver.


I would like to upgrade with an Anthem A5 in which case I would use one of the Citation's for the rear or surrounds OR;


An Anthem P2, in which case I would use a Citiation for the center and rears and continue to use the Yamaha for the surrounds.


Ideally, I'd love to have a P5 but it's a bit out of range for me at the moment. How important is it for the center channel amplification to match the mains? Is an A5 a significant upgrade from the Citations?


I use the home theatre mainly for movies 80% and some music listening.


Any thoughts would be aprreciated.


Thanks


----------



## buckley44

can someone let me know were in the thread i can find the procedure for the arc set up its been a long time since i've done one and i would like to read up on it again. thanks also can anyone tell me if i have to use any special usb to serial adapter or will anyone of them do.


----------



## jayray

Here are my two scenarios, ARC Flat and ARC Auto. Both have PBK done on the Sub 25 and ARC Flat is with both PBK and ARC set to flat and Auto is with both done with Auto.

John


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *buckley44* 
can someone let me know were in the thread i can find the procedure for the arc set up its been a long time since i've done one and i would like to read up on it again. thanks also can anyone tell me if i have to use any special usb to serial adapter or will anyone of them do.
Look in the frequently asked questions. Also the online manual will have instructions or search for one of the many posts by Bob which outline some of the tricks and tweaks.

John


----------



## buckley44

can i use any usb serial adapter for upgrades?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19481589
> 
> 
> can someone let me know were in the thread i can find the procedure for the arc set up its been a long time since i've done one and i would like to read up on it again. thanks also can anyone tell me if i have to use any special usb to serial adapter or will anyone of them do.


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post18914184


----------



## wabbit636

Anyone know if the latest ARC software version 3.01 is compatible with the older D2? I have downloaded it and there doesn't seem to be any mention that it is only for D2V.


I have ARC version 2.3 and am about to recalibrate and would like to use the lastest software.


Is the ARC software compatible for both D2V as well as D2?


Thanks!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/19482104
> 
> 
> Is the ARC software compatible for both D2V as well as D2?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Of Course - this is Anthem


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/19482104
> 
> 
> Anyone know if the latest ARC software version 3.01 is compatible with the older D2? I have downloaded it and there doesn't seem to be any mention that it is only for D2V.
> 
> 
> I have ARC version 2.3 and am about to recalibrate and would like to use the lastest software.
> 
> 
> Is the ARC software compatible for both D2V as well as D2?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



When you run it it will ask what unit you are using but this is just to extract the manual.


----------



## wabbit636

I figured it was compatible but just wanted to be sure before doing it.....now on to the recalibration of my system!


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19481763
> 
> 
> can i use any usb serial adapter for upgrades?



Theoretically, any Windows "certified" USB/Serial adapter should work.


In reality, you should get the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter. It's sold on Amazon as well as other places.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/19481451
> 
> 
> Hey there:
> 
> 
> Sorry to interrupt the current thread.
> 
> 
> I am looking for some advice regarding upgrading my home theatre.
> 
> 
> I currently have a D2v, and Paradigm studio monitors (7.1, Sub 15), no changes planned here yet.
> 
> 
> On the amplification end I am running two Harman Kardon Citation 22 (circa 1988) amplifiers in mono mode, each powering one main channel. For the center, surround and rears I am using the amplifier section of a Yamaha receiver.
> 
> 
> I would like to upgrade with an Anthem A5 in which case I would use one of the Citation's for the rear or surrounds OR;
> 
> 
> An Anthem P2, in which case I would use a Citiation for the center and rears and continue to use the Yamaha for the surrounds.
> 
> 
> Ideally, I'd love to have a P5 but it's a bit out of range for me at the moment. How important is it for the center channel amplification to match the mains? Is an A5 a significant upgrade from the Citations?
> 
> 
> I use the home theatre mainly for movies 80% and some music listening.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts would be aprreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I don't know enough about the Citations to make a comparison but as to your question regarding the Center channel I would say it is VERY important.


The Center carries most of the dialog of course, but it also carries a significant load of bass. Movie mixers can't assume listeners will have a subwoofer, and so they need to put any critical bass for the mix in the main speakers as well and that usually ends up in Center.


If you do primarily 2-channel music listening, then of course the importance of Center is reduced.

--Bob


----------



## husker du

Thanks for the response Bob.


If we say that the center channel should match the mains, are we talking in terms of power rating, gain or other quantitative or qualitative measures.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19481203
> 
> 
> Ran ARC tonight for the first time. VERY NICE!
> 
> 
> I just have a few quirks left, all relating to my Harmony 1100 remote. Every function works, except I can't change inputs on the processor when I switch activities. It looked like there were commands for DVD1, DVD2, DVD3, etc...but they didn't work when I tried. The AVM50v just stays on the same input. Anybody figure this out?
> 
> 
> And one other in regards to the remote....when I volume up or down, it goes like 2.5db either way....instead of .5 like I think it should.
> 
> 
> I'd appreciate any help....my head is hurting from running back and forth from my theater room to the computer trying different options!



Reduce the key repeat count on our Harmony. It is sending the volume up/down command multiple times, which is why the volume is changing so much.


The direct access to the sources is s 3 key sequence (see the Appendix in the Manual). If a source selection such as DVD2 is made you should actually be able to see the 3 steps happening in the on-screen display. One possibility is that your Harmony is sending the 3 keys too slowly so that it is timing out before they are all sent. See what's happening on screen and then ask Harmony support for help to fix the codes for your Harmony account.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/19482284
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response Bob.
> 
> 
> If we say that the center channel should match the mains, are we talking in terms of power rating, gain or other quantitative or qualitative measures.



That's a complicated subject. You want the same timbre across the speakers and you want enough power headroom to carry the volume, but trying to quantify that in specs is probably more than I should try to go into here.


My main point was that, particularly for movies, Center is not just a "fill in" speaker. It handles important content.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19481039
> 
> 
> Thanks for that. Will leave it as it is as it sounds excellent to me until I get the 2nd submersive and get you over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Still require an answer please anyone, for my question regarding the Line Level value. Mine had to be set to -11.5db to achieve 75db reading on the spl meter. Does this value become my reference value on the Anthem via the main volume or is "0" still reference?



The levels that are set in Setup > Level Calibration correspond to what "reference level" audio inputs will produce for speaker output when the Main volume is set to -10dB.


I.e., if you targeted a 75dB SPL setup, then -10dB main volume will give you that for reference level content. Be aware that peak content level can easily be 15dB higher than that.


It's done this way so that if folks want to experience a commercial theater setup level (roughly 85dB SPL), they can do that simply by raising main volume further above -10db.


The solution levels shown on the ARC charts are ALSO supposed to correspond to what reference level content will produce when Main volume is set to -10dB, however there appear to still be some errors in the way the charts are drawn so that some people are seeing solution charts closer to 60dB which are really resulting in listening levels more like 75dB. Note that this is apparently just a chart problem. The actual solutions being uploaded into the Anthem appear to be correct (according to whatever level you targeted when you set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level to begin with).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19480541
> 
> 
> Good work mate. So in my situation should I set it back to Auto, save it and then upload and test some material? Or do I have to redo ARC with the auto set as default?
> 
> 
> Also just changed all speakers to 80hz and increased room gain to 1.5 (to see what effect it has) and sub setting set to auto. Let me know hows things look



Why are you changing all the speakers to 80Hz? There's no particular value in that.


Also, and we've talked about this before, make sure that you have good correction at least one octave down from the crossover for each speaker (40Hz for an 80Hz crossover).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/19479352
> 
> 
> I am sure that Anthem will be charging for the HDMI 1.4 upgrade, but is there any grace period? In other words, if I buy a D2v now, will I be close enough to the HDMI 1.4 launch to avoid the upgrade charge?
> 
> 
> I would guess the answer is, that no such grace period exists --- if I wanted the HDMI 1.4 that I would need to wait until it is ready to buy the D2v.
> 
> 
> I currently have no desire for HDMI 1.4, but I might sometime in the future. It would be a little annoying to buy the D2v now only to have to pay more for that upgrade later, knowing that I could have just waited a few months to save that charge.
> 
> 
> I am still happy with my Anthem AVM20v2, but the itch to upgrade has been getting stronger.
> 
> 
> 
> John



We don't have any details yet, but I assume that if they switch to including the HDMI V1.4 ports as part of the base configuration that the price may go up on the base configuration anyway. Based on past upgrade pricing, it would probably still be cheaper to wait and buy a new configuration with the updated HDMI included rather than buying now and doing an upgrade, but then think of all the time you'll have lost where you could already be enjoying a new D2v?

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19481628
> 
> 
> Here are my two scenarios, ARC Flat and ARC Auto. Both have PBK done on the Sub 25 and ARC Flat is with both PBK and ARC set to flat and Auto is with both done with Auto.
> 
> John



Flat looks better at 20Hz as the auto setup is starting to roll off before 20hz


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19479114
> 
> 
> Bob et all... what do you think?
> 
> 
> I just got in a sub 2 and re-measured everything. I have not used the PBK that came with sub 2. Thus far i have just used the most recent ARC version (3). I have a peak at 20 hz and then a null that averages out between 50 and 100hz.
> 
> 
> Interestingly this arc version (the other change in the system is the new sub 2 which replaced two infinity prelude mts subs) has now assigned a room gain of 3 where prior to this the room gain assignment was less than 1.
> 
> 
> As you can see the cut offs are all at 115 and 120 for the sub. The uploaded crossovers are at 115 for everything sub 2 included.
> 
> 
> The peak and nulls are not horrible. I am wondering if it is worth the effort of combining PBK with ARC or not.
> 
> 
> THanks for your input.
> 
> 
> -Bob



It looks like you've got a pretty substantial room cancellation null between 50 and 80 Hz that's affecting not only Sub, but also LF/RF and quite possibly C. Look at the bass response from RS in comparison for example. Figuring that out could pay big dividends as you'll likely be able to use a lower crossover from LF/RF and C.


Some time spent with Quick Measure would be your best move now. Try repositioning experiments on your new sub and also on LF/RF looking to minimize that Measured dip between 50 and 80Hz. If you have any flexibility with C, try shifting it as well.


I'd do what you can with repositioning before adding PBK into the equation.


Is this room already acoustically treated? Perhaps that hasn't been done correctly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CerberusII* /forum/post/19479180
> 
> 
> First off, I would like to say thank you to everyone, especially Bob, for all of their time and effort in providing their input and assistance. This thread has been very informative, and actually let me to becoming the proud owner of an AVM50v. Does that make me one of the cool kids??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a couple questions for Bob.
> 
> 
> 1. Does the speaker distance set up have any effect on ARC? I didn't set this up prior to running ARC.
> 
> 
> 2. I have the Klipsch THX Ultra2 7.2 speakers (dual 12 subs with external amp). I have the external sub amp set to THX mode. This bypasses the internal crossover and level controls as it assumes that you are using a THX processor to take care of those. The thing I found odd was that I had to set the sub test level to -12 in order to get the tone down to 75db. Does this make sense? The room is 19x14x10 and has wall treatment.
> 
> 
> I have posted my ARC graphs. Please let me know if they look okay, an make any suggestions you may have.
> 
> One note: ARC assigned 1.49 room gain, which I changed manually to 2.49 as per your recommendation that between 2 and 3 is optimal.
> 
> 
> Thank You very much.
> 
> -Chris



1) No problem, you can fix the speaker distances after setting up ARC because ARC never hears more than one speaker playing at a time so it won't hear anything resulting from incorrect relative distances.


2) It is not unusual for people to have to turn volume way down on their subs to get proper calibration. Sub makers know that many people won't believe the sub is working unless they can see the stress fractures forming in their walls.


The Measured response from your sub doesn't look good. ARC is correcting much of that but there's a problem that needs to be addressed. Since you have dual subs with a common amp, one thought is that you have a polarity problem between them so that they are canceling each other across a wide range of bass frequencies. To test that, use Quick Measure with only one sub connected at a time. If Quick Measure shows good output from each sub in turn but bad output when they are both connected then cancellation is the culprit. Recheck the wiring and polarity settings.


If Quick Measure shows each individual sub also producing the same, bad output then you should investigate repositioning the subs to see if you can find a location where they couple more favorably with the room.


------------------------------------


All of your main speakers show very poor treble output. I could expect some treble drop off in the mic response, but what you've got seems go way beyond that. Play some stereo audio content with treble, select Stereo All audio surround mode and then go put your ear up close to the tweeters in each speaker in turn and make sure they are firing. Check your speaker pointing as well as treble is directional.


You've got a little dip in LF/RF around 100Hz, but that's minor compared to the sub and treble problems.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*ARC V3.01 is Now Official!*


Anthem has now place ARC V3.01 on their public download pages. Release notes for changes since the prior "official" version, V3.0, read as follows:



> Quote:
> v3.0.1 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for quick measure crash caused by starting measurement then disconnecting mic then clicking "disconnect" or the "X".
> 
> 
> 2. When multiple cal files are present, popup that lists them goes to foreground instead of background.



Note a couple things here. First the ARC install stuff, and I believe the version when you ask the application, shows "3.0.1", whereas the title for the download says "3.01", so expect a little confusion as regards that.


Second, the release notes still identify this as a "beta" release even though it is on the public download pages -- which is what makes it "official".


The contents of the download appear to be identical to the original "test" ARC V3.0.1 which appeared on Anthem's password protected download page back in October. That "test" download has been updated a couple times since to include revised versions of the MRX Receivers manual, but no actual code changes. The version now on the public download pages looks like it includes the latest of those MRX manual revisions


The bottom line is that if you already have ARC V3.0.1 from the password protected download page I don't think there's any reason to replace it. If you are interested in the MRX receivers you can get the latest manual from this new download however.


Obviously the fixes included in this version are relatively minor and don't alter the quality of the ARC solution, so there's no rush to go out and re-Measure with this new ARC, but you might as well install it so that you have it in place the next time you want to do ARC stuff.

--Bob


----------



## mvppsu

Here are my thoughts on the correct way to set subwoofer phase on the Anthem processors, and why I think the method outlined in this forum is flawed



I've now owned my Anthem D2 for almost 6 months and since I set it up and started tweaking I always thought that its inability to set speaker distance and phase was its biggest downfall when it comes to ease of use vs. a processor with Audessey. This is probably the biggest single item that prevents the average user from getting outstanding results when setting up their system.


I struggled for the last few months trying to get proper integration between my Paradigm Signature S2's and JL Audio Fathom F113. With my old Denon receiver using Audessy MultiEQ XT, this was done for me and gave a perfect result every time. I have dealt with satellite/sub integration in the past though since I used to use a 2-channel preamp in my system that required manual setup. This was always a struggle and never resulted in a perfect solution. This is due to the fact that the 2-channel system had no means of delaying the signal to the satellite speakers. The only adjustment was the phase knob on the subwoofer.


While most quality subwoofers include a phase adjustment, using that as the only means to integrate a sub/sat system is inherently flawed and will almost never result in a perfect solution. This is due to the physics behind how filters work and the effect they have on phase. A low-pass-filter (LPF) used to remove high frequencies from subwoofers not only changes the frequency response of the subwoofer, it also results in a phase lag. On the other hand, a high-pass-filter (HPF) used to remove low frequencies from satellite speakers results in a phase lead for those speakers. So if the subwoofer has a phase lag, and the satellites have a phase lead, the only way to get them realigned is to introduce a delay in the signal to the satellite speakers. But, the phase knob on a subwoofer cannot delay the signal to the satellite speakers; it can only delay the subwoofer further. In a 2-channel system with no other means to control phase, using the subwoofer phase knob is better than nothing since delaying the subwoofer even more eventually brings it back in phase with the satellites, but this is a compromised solution since the sub will now be playing even further behind the satellites. Using this method can often provide a solution that works at a single frequency, but probably will result in cancelations elsewhere.


Now, with the use of digital processing in the Anthem and other processors, it is possible to delay the signal to the satellite speakers and provide near perfect alignment. But that is not done by using the subwoofer phase adjustment. This is done by changing the speaker distances. By increasing the subwoofer distance in the listener position menu, you are effectively adding a delay to the satellite speakers. This is the approach used by Audessy and is a better method of sub/sat integration than using the subwoofer phase control. With this method I'm able to get phase alignment across a broad frequency spectrum which was never possible using the phase adjustment.



So the steps I propose for setting phase (assuming a single subwoofer) are:


1) Set Subwoofer phase to 0 in both the MOVIE and MUSIC speaker configurations

2) Measure and enter the correct speaker distances for all satellite speakers

3) Measure and enter the correct distance for the subwoofer

4) While playing a test tone, slowly increase the subwoofer distance until you measure the largest response at the crossover frequency. This can be done using a RadioShack SPL meter, but it is much easier and more effective if you have a broadband measurement system such as the Velodyne SMS-1.



Using this method I get proper alignment with the subwoofer set about 4 feet further than its actual distance. This distance will vary greatly depending on your subwoofer and any additional electronic delay it introduces internally. This method can be used with multiple subs by first phase aligning the subs using their on-board phase knobs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There's a question over on the MRX Receivers thread as to whether it matters if you install Windows 7 32-bit vs. 64-bit in Bootcamp on a Mac for use with the Anthem applications including ARC.


As far as I know the Anthem stuff works just fine either way, but I use Windows XP so I'm not sure. Does anyone here know of anything to contradict that?


ETA: Come to think of it, does Bootcamp even support 64 bit Windows 7 yet?

--Bob


----------



## CerberusII




> Quote:
> 1) No problem, you can fix the speaker distances after setting up ARC because ARC never hears more than one speaker playing at a time so it won't hear anything resulting from incorrect relative distances.
> 
> 
> 2) It is not unusual for people to have to turn volume way down on their subs to get proper calibration. Sub makers know that many people won't believe the sub is working unless they can see the stress fractures forming in their walls.
> 
> 
> The Measured response from your sub doesn't look good. ARC is correcting much of that but there's a problem that needs to be addressed. Since you have dual subs with a common amp, one thought is that you have a polarity problem between them so that they are canceling each other across a wide range of bass frequencies. To test that, use Quick Measure with only one sub connected at a time. If Quick Measure shows good output from each sub in turn but bad output when they are both connected then cancellation is the culprit. Recheck the wiring and polarity settings.
> 
> 
> If Quick Measure shows each individual sub also producing the same, bad output then you should investigate repositioning the subs to see if you can find a location where they couple more favorably with the room.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> All of your main speakers show very poor treble output. I could expect some treble drop off in the mic response, but what you've got seems go way beyond that. Play some stereo audio content with treble, select Stereo All audio surround mode and then go put your ear up close to the tweeters in each speaker in turn and make sure they are firing. Check your speaker pointing as well as treble is directional.
> 
> 
> You've got a little dip in LF/RF around 100Hz, but that's minor compared to the sub and treble problems.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Thank you for the reply. My subs use Monster THX Ultra cable with Neutrik Speakon (press and twist on/off) connectors to the dedicated amp. I believe that this would take polarity/phase issues out of the equation. I believe that my only option here may be to point the subs differently. I don't really have much of an option to move them within the room.

As for the treble, I played several tracks in All Stereo mode as well as listening to the AIX Records blu-ray sampler. Everything actually sounded fantastic; much better than the Aragon StageOne that I am replacing. The tweeters are all functioning and quite eardrum piercing at higher volume levels.

A little setup/room info:

AVM50v/Aragon 2007 200Wx7

L/C/R Klipsch KL-525-THX

Sur/Back Klipsch KS-525-THX


My setup consists of all horn tweeters that have a dispersion of 90deg x 60deg. All of my surround speakers are bi-directional (triangle shaped with horn/mid on two sides. The LR are sitting on the subs and the center is on AV cabinet all 16 from front wall and are a bit below ear level (10 below front row ear level and 18 below rear row) and the surrounds are at 78 from the floor putting them about 40ish inches above ear level. The subs are 9 from front wall and 22 from side walls. They have front firing slot ports.

I have attached a rough diagram of the room. The blue numbers are the ARC Mic positions.

Any positioning or pointing suggestions based on this information?

I won't have the opportunity to run ARC again until tomorrow as my girlfriend borrowed the laptop I use.

Thank You.

-Chris


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Why are you changing all the speakers to 80Hz? There's no particular value in that



Macca recommended to do this when I took delivery of the JTR 8HT's (3 fronts) and JTR Slanted 8's and first started using ARC. ARC set the left and right speakers to 80 but the center & rears to 90 and the sub to 120.


I'm happy to upload the settings ARC came up with in the first place and will post the graphs for comparison to the changes I made. I didn't upload the settings with the added room gain as yet, as I was waiting for a reply from you or others to see if it was a positive thing to do.


Thanks for the explanation regarding the reference question.


Here are the specs on the Triple 8HT's that I'm using for the front stage:

http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/triple-8ht/ 


and here are the Slanted 8HT's that I'm using for surrounds (I'm running a 5.1 setup):

http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/slanted-8/


----------



## mookie b

Didn't do ARC 3.0 yet, but did 2.4 as I just bought the AVM50v 2 days ago.


Can someone help decipher these? Regardless, the sound is fantastic. I can't move my speakers or sub, so take that into mind.


----------



## buckley44

can someone tell me how these graphs look?

 

arh graph 2.doc 47.5k . file


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I figured it was compatible but just wanted to be sure before doing it.....now on to the recalibration of my system!
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Works on my D1!


----------



## daren_p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19472260
> 
> 
> For folks who are getting ARC V3.0 charts that show the solution being at or below 60dB SPL even though you find you are still using the same volume settings when listening to normal content as with your prior ARC version's 75dB solution, I'm curious what version of Windows you are using?
> 
> 
> I have a theory that this is a chart error due to the version of Windows, and that the solution itself is really still a 75dB solution.
> 
> 
> I'm using Windows XP Home Edition, and do not have this problem. My ARC V3.0 charts show volumes pretty close to just what I would expect. And the volume settings I use in normal listening confirm that.
> 
> 
> Is anybody having the problem with XP? Which version of XP? Or is the problem just on Vista or on Windows 7?
> 
> --Bob



I have the ~62db issue & am running Windows XP Media Center edition


On another note, I saw the above posts about the "flat" setting on the sub. I have the SVS SB12 Plus that was dropping off well before 20hz in my ARC solution. While my sub doesn't have lots of output below 20hz, figured I'd try this setting to see if it makes a difference. I redid the ARC solution & the sub looks much better according to the graph. Before I was -3db around 28hz, the new solution is showing 20hz as my -3db level!


I'll have to do a before test, update the solution & compare.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Quote:

Originally Posted by *husker du*
Thanks for the response Bob.


If we say that the center channel should match the mains, are we talking in terms of power rating, gain or other quantitative or qualitative measures.
In my opinion it needs to match period. The center is very important to movie audio and If the center amp does not have comparable characteristics you could end up with the center not sounding the way it should. What might be telling is if you could test driving the center with one Citation and the L/R from the receiver. If it sounds no different in dialog an upgrade may not be in order.


You didn't say which Studios you have, I have had the 100's v3, they need a solid amp.


I have a P5, it is everything you think it is, that said it is the only piece that I have questioned spending too much on, but I have kept it in the interest of do no harm. If the Citation does really well on center then I would suggest trying to find another. I had an HK amp in the middle 80's and remember it fondly. I had some sealed enclosure Boston Acoustics that were rated at 4 ohms (A400's I think) that were a handful to drive and the HK I had did well.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I am thinking of upgrading from a D1 to a D2. Anyone think doing this is shortsighted? I have no interest in 3D, use a BDP 83 with analog outs now for loss less but am finding not having HDMI a pain. I have a scope screen with lens and would like to get the stretch out of the projector as it does not do it quite right.


I have a dealer who will give me a price comparable to Audiogon but they will warranty it even though Anthem will not due to time on the floor.


Had thought of going with a MRX of some flavor but no scope stretch a I understand.


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* 
I am finding not having HDMI a pain.
You have no idea what Blu-Ray sound you are missing and picture


----------



## mookie b

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mookie b* 
Didn't do ARC 3.0 yet, but did 2.4 as I just bought the AVM50v 2 days ago.


Can someone help decipher these? Regardless, the sound is fantastic. I can't move my speakers or sub, so take that into mind.
What should I make of the massive dip on all speakers at 10khz?


----------



## pongtip

Hi I'm so fresh on Anthem D2v. And I've heard, set ARC high pass to flat to make a good result. But I could not find where it to be on menu. Let me know, please.

Thank you


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Quote:

Originally Posted by *drhankz*
You have no idea what Blu-Ray sound you are missing and picture
I thought using the analog out on the Oppo allowed lossless to the now D1. It sounds better than the coax digital link for sure.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

Quote:

Originally Posted by *drhankz*
You have no idea what Blu-Ray sound you are missing and picture
I do use DVI from the Oppo to the projector. It does HDCP.


----------



## MACCA350

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jayray;*
Here are my two scenarios, ARC Flat and ARC Auto. Both have PBK done on the Sub 25 and ARC Flat is with both PBK and ARC set to flat and Auto is with both done with Auto.

John
Thanks for posting both John. Its a bit hard to see the detail with those low res pics, any chance you could repost higher res pics with just the sub channel?


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350

Quote:

Originally Posted by *pongtip;*
Hi I'm so fresh on Anthem D2v. And I've heard, set ARC high pass to flat to make a good result. But I could not find where it to be on menu. Let me know, please.

Thank you
Go to the Targets window, bottom right there is an 'Advanced' button, click on that and you'll find those options.


Cheers


----------



## pongtip

MACCA350, You are so kind. Thank so much, time to play on it Yippy


----------



## CerberusII

Quote:

Originally Posted by *drhankz* 
Only Cool Kids get Mascots







































Now you are crowned COOL
Thanks for the mascots and cool crown drhankz!


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MACCA350* 
Thanks for posting both John. Its a bit hard to see the detail with those low res pics, any chance you could repost higher res pics with just the sub channel?


Cheers
I tried using paint but not sure how to make it higher res. What I see is a slight decrease as the curve hits 20 Hz with Auto and with Flat, the curve is slightly flatter but sounds and feels flatter below 20 Hz.

John


----------



## jpoet

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
We don't have any details yet, but I assume that if they switch to including the HDMI V1.4 ports as part of the base configuration that the price may go up on the base configuration anyway. Based on past upgrade pricing, it would probably still be cheaper to wait and buy a new configuration with the updated HDMI included rather than buying now and doing an upgrade,
Has Anthem done any hardware "upgrades" in the past that would be comparable? If so, what was the fee?
Quote:

but then think of all the time you'll have lost where you could already be enjoying a new D2v?

--Bob
That is an excellent argument











John


----------



## MACCA350

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jayray;*
I tried using paint but not sure how to make it higher res. What I see is a slight decrease as the curve hits 20 Hz with Auto and with Flat, the curve is slightly flatter but sounds and feels flatter below 20 Hz.

John
Does the green calculated response line follow the target curve in both graphs? Or does it deviate and follow the red pre filter response line below 25Hz on the Flat graph?


Cheers


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MACCA350* 
Does the green calculated response line follow the target curve in both graphs? Or does it deviate and follow the red pre filter response line below 25Hz on the Flat graph?


Cheers
It follows the target line in both. Target line is flatter with Flat HPF.

John


----------



## buckley44

Quote:

Originally Posted by *buckley44* 
can someone tell me how these graphs look?
thanks

 

arh graph 2(5).doc 266k . file


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It follows the target line in both. Target line is flatter with Flat HPF.
> 
> John



Seems yours is the only one(of the few that have posted) that has the post filter line following the target below 25Hz in Flat mode. The main difference it seems is your pre filter line around 25Hz looks closer to the target.


Will have a fiddle around during the week to see what the cause is and whether adjusting the sub prior to measurements will have the desired effect.


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350

Ok, I've worked it out.......the explanation for what is going on is quite simple really, I noticed it before but assumed it was ignored........it's not










In the advanced settings of ARC 3.0 when you set the High Pass Filter to 'Flat' hence disabling it, the 'Min Sub EQ Freq' option becomes active........and by active I mean active, ie if you set it to 50Hz ARC will do nothing from there down. The lowest option for this is 20Hz and, as far as I can tell, you cannot disable it in Flat mode or reduce it to take advantage of ARC's latest sub 20Hz filtering.


So basically in Flat mode ARC will only apply filters down to 20Hz.

If your pre filter measurement deviates much from the target below 30Hz your post filter line will leave the target and begin following the pre filter measurement.


Only workaround I can suggest is to get your measured pre-ARC response around 20-30Hz close to your target level at that point prior to calculating the filters. This way there will be a smooth transition from ARC's adjustments to the natural response of your sub in your room. What you don't want is a resulting boost in that region and below for the reasions mentioned earlier.


Would be nice for Anthem to include an option to disable that 'Min Sub EQ Freq' setting or to include the lowest frequency ARC will correct as an option(since v3.0 supposedly corrects below 20Hz)


Cheers


----------



## runnerlk

Hmm, well after having my D2v for about 1.5 years running 2.10 I experienced significant HDMI audio loss. When i first power on the unit and the source(either BDP83SE or DirecTV) i will sometimes have no sound. Also noticed that if I am in D2 setup and move off the source that is currently in use, I will also lose video. The only remedy so far is to power cycle the D2 and cross my fingers because sometimes it will take multiple reboots. Since it is happening to multiple sources doesn't sound like they or the HMDI cables are the issue. Just wondered what others have experienced and any remedies.


Thanks,


Lou


----------



## husker du




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/19483680
> 
> 
> In my opinion it needs to match period. The center is very important to movie audio and If the center amp does not have comparable characteristics you could end up with the center not sounding the way it should. What might be telling is if you could test driving the center with one Citation and the L/R from the receiver. If it sounds no different in dialog an upgrade may not be in order.
> 
> 
> You didn't say which Studios you have, I have had the 100's v3, they need a solid amp.
> 
> 
> I have a P5, it is everything you think it is, that said it is the only piece that I have questioned spending too much on, but I have kept it in the interest of do no harm. If the Citation does really well on center then I would suggest trying to find another. I had an HK amp in the middle 80's and remember it fondly. I had some sealed enclosure Boston Acoustics that were rated at 4 ohms (A400's I think) that were a handful to drive and the HK I had did well.



Thanks for the response.


The speakers are Studio 100s v.5.. I will try the HK in the center. I do have access to another Citation amp that I can try. I have no doubt the Citation will drive the center well. My question about the center matching the mains was more about how closely the specifications of the respective amplifiers need to match rather than the quality of the amplification. In other words, if the HK is more than adequate to drive the center, does it matter that it does not have the same "specs". Bob stated that this was a complicated matter so I'm going to assume that there are reasons to use the same amp for the center as the mains.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19484582
> 
> 
> thanks



Post your target window as well. Your sub is down 10 dB at 100 Hz and a little less down to 70 Hz. Make sure any correction or high freq. filtering is disabled before you run ARC. Try repositioning the sub using the Quick Measure feature in ARC. Depending on what sub you have, I think your response can be better.

John


----------



## buckley44

i have the pardign sig servo 15" SUB were do i find the correction filtering at. what do i have to do to reposition the sub in the quick measure , here is my target graph. otherwise do u think the charts look good thank u .



l

 

Doc2.doc 75.5k . file


----------



## mookie b

Like the poster above, I also realized I had my SUB had its internal correction stuff running. Turned it off, and here are the new charts. (my old ones a few posts earlier)


Thanks JayRay for all the help.

 

arcpic2.doc 135.5k . file


----------



## buckley44

how do you know if it has internal correction.


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19485937
> 
> 
> how do you know if it has internal correction.



You would have ran the room correction....just like you're doing for your processor.


----------



## buckley44

what sub do you have, and how did you turn off the correction filters?


----------



## mookie b

I have a JL F113, and it has a button on the top that says "defeat" to not use the internal filters.


Did you run Paradigms PBK on your subs? If you didn't, don't worry about it.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19482433
> 
> 
> It looks like you've got a pretty substantial room cancellation null between 50 and 80 Hz that's affecting not only Sub, but also LF/RF and quite possibly C. Look at the bass response from RS in comparison for example. Figuring that out could pay big dividends as you'll likely be able to use a lower crossover from LF/RF and C.
> 
> 
> Some time spent with Quick Measure would be your best move now. Try repositioning experiments on your new sub and also on LF/RF looking to minimize that Measured dip between 50 and 80Hz. If you have any flexibility with C, try shifting it as well.
> 
> 
> I'd do what you can with repositioning before adding PBK into the equation.
> 
> 
> Is this room already acoustically treated? Perhaps that hasn't been done correctly.
> 
> --Bob



The room is not acoustically treated. It is more or less a box shape though 20 x20 with an even 9 foot ceiling.


The L,C,R,LS and RS are all identical speakers (infinity prelude MTS) and where designed with a low end max of 80hz. Could that not explain the drop off we are seeing in measurements at around 80hz with all of the speakers? They all drop off significantly at 90HZ and below which I thinks looks like a null but really is the speakers naturally limit in low end frequency extension. As an example, THE LS and RS speakers are corner mounted on the wall.. The LS has a hard wall and a soft wall (curtain) making its "corner"... so the measurements again make sense to me as the both surrounds are showing more gain (less steep drop off slope from 90HZ and below) on the low end of the frequency spectrum than L, R speakers which are positioned 2 feet from the front wall and 4 feet in from the side walls. The RS even has more low end gain than the LS which again makes sense because the RS is in a "hard" corner as opposed to the LS that is in a soft corner.


Based on the room and the speaker placement, I am thinking the null is more directly effecting the SUB2. I am limited as to the placement of the sub2 and did position it for the best null eliminating position with Quick measure but I only did that with one mic placement (position 1).


I could try to tweak the position more using Quick measure over more positions but I think i have it in its best spot right now. Thus I am wondering if it now makes sense to add PBK into the mix or not. I would also like to know if you agree with my reasoning above.


Coud the sub null also have to do with incorrect phase and polarity setting at the 80Hz crossover point? I have not yet taken the time to check this. I currently have phase and polarity set to defaults... 0 phase and normal polarity.


The room sounds quite good as is but I would like to get rid of the null if I could.


----------



## buckley44

No i did not thanks for the help,which i knew how to read these charts, im sure someone will get back to me and help me out, how do u use the quick measure i dont see it on my arc program,thanks again


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19485937
> 
> 
> how do you know if it has internal correction.



On the back of your sub, turn the Cut Off Frequency knob all the way to the right, to 150Hz, this will make sure that it does not interfere with ARC's solution.


John


----------



## CerberusII

If I run ARC but chose not to upload the results, does my old ARC upload remain in the processor, or does it get cleared out?


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/19485366
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response.
> 
> 
> The speakers are Studio 100s v.5.. I will try the HK in the center. I do have access to another Citation amp that I can try. I have no doubt the Citation will drive the center well. My question about the center matching the mains was more about how closely the specifications of the respective amplifiers need to match rather than the quality of the amplification. In other words, if the HK is more than adequate to drive the center, does it matter that it does not have the same "specs". Bob stated that this was a complicated matter so I'm going to assume that there are reasons to use the same amp for the center as the mains.



What center do you run? I will not be surprised if you find the Citation improves you center/dialog experience.


As far as matching amps, I would suggest that there are not enough specifications published to know if two amps matched sonically.


----------



## buckley44

can anyone tell me why my charts say right rear/aux and left rear/aux Attachment 191111 

Attachment 191112 

 

arh graph 2(5).doc 266k . file

 

Doc2.doc 75.5k . file


----------



## CerberusII




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19486898
> 
> 
> can anyone tell me why my charts say right rear/aux and left rear/aux Attachment 191111
> 
> Attachment 191112




That's how ARC labels your back surround speakers in a 7.1 setup.


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19486068
> 
> 
> The room is not acoustically treated. It is more or less a box shape though 20 x20 with an even 9 foot ceiling.
> 
> 
> The L,C,R,LS and RS are all identical speakers (infinity prelude MTS) and where designed with a low end max of 80hz. Could that not explain the drop off we are seeing in measurements at around 80hz with all of the speakers?



Infinity Prelude MTS speakers were/are world-class engineered with individual powered subwoofers for each speaker. I am guessing you are turning off the MTS subwoofers? The 80Hz crossover is 24dB/octave so that would drop it off very rapidly.


With the integrated subwoofer they give incredible flat frequency response (+/- 3dB from 23Hz to 22kHz). Be very interested to see how ARC treats them with the subwoofers turned on?


Cheers.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19485900
> 
> 
> Like the poster above, I also realized I had my SUB had its internal correction stuff running. Turned it off, and here are the new charts. (my old ones a few posts earlier)
> 
> 
> Thanks JayRay for all the help.



One thing to realize is that ARC sets the Target based on the measured curve. It is a realistic point that ARC thinks it can correct to. However if your measured curve changes, the Target will change to reflect what it thinks it can do given this new measured result. So, this means if you hit the target curve you may still have a less than stellar result. I see two major dips in your measured sub curve. If you can reduce these, ARC will create a new target and work to correct to this target. That is why just relying on ARC is not the best way to approach room issues. Moving speakers should be done first and then let ARC finish the job.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19486898
> 
> 
> can anyone tell me why my charts say right rear/aux and left rear/aux Attachment 191111
> 
> Attachment 191112



First to address the sub. I had a servo 15 and there is no correction feature in it, so don't worry about that. Just turn the high freq. bypass all the way to 150 Hz. Now use the Quick measure feature in ARC, found under Tools. See what position gives the best measured curve and for you and it would be the one without the large dip from 100 Hz to 50 Hz. This sub, in the right position, will give a flat response from 100 to 20 Hz.


As for the labelling of speakers in your charts, this was added for the new MRX receivers speaker options. Don't worry about this.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19486068
> 
> 
> The room is not acoustically treated. It is more or less a box shape though 20 x20 with an even 9 foot ceiling.
> 
> 
> The L,C,R,LS and RS are all identical speakers (infinity prelude MTS) and where designed with a low end max of 80hz. Could that not explain the drop off we are seeing in measurements at around 80hz with all of the speakers? They all drop off significantly at 90HZ and below which I thinks looks like a null but really is the speakers naturally limit in low end frequency extension. As an example, THE LS and RS speakers are corner mounted on the wall.. The LS has a hard wall and a soft wall (curtain) making its "corner"... so the measurements again make sense to me as the both surrounds are showing more gain (less steep drop off slope from 90HZ and below) on the low end of the frequency spectrum than L, R speakers which are positioned 2 feet from the front wall and 4 feet in from the side walls. The RS even has more low end gain than the LS which again makes sense because the RS is in a "hard" corner as opposed to the LS that is in a soft corner.
> 
> 
> Based on the room and the speaker placement, I am thinking the null is more directly effecting the SUB2. I am limited as to the placement of the sub2 and did position it for the best null eliminating position with Quick measure but I only did that with one mic placement (position 1).
> 
> 
> I could try to tweak the position more using Quick measure over more positions but I think i have it in its best spot right now. Thus I am wondering if it now makes sense to add PBK into the mix or not. I would also like to know if you agree with my reasoning above.
> 
> 
> Coud the sub null also have to do with incorrect phase and polarity setting at the 80Hz crossover point? I have not yet taken the time to check this. I currently have phase and polarity set to defaults... 0 phase and normal polarity.
> 
> 
> The room sounds quite good as is but I would like to get rid of the null if I could.



Your sub is a monster and the dip from 100 to 50 Hz is really limiting your LFE response. PBK is not likely to make much of a diff since both ARC and PBK are working on targets based on the same measurement. Moving the sub is your only choice but will yield, I think, a spectacular improvement.

John


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19487234
> 
> 
> One thing to realize is that ARC sets the Target based on the measured curve. It is a realistic point that ARC thinks it can correct to. However if your measured curve changes, the Target will change to reflect what it thinks it can do given this new measured result. So, this means if you could hit the target curve but still have a less than stellar result. I see two major dips in your measured sub curve. If you can reduce these, ARC will create a new target and work to correct to this target. That is why just relying on ARC is not the best way to approach room issues. Moving speakers should be done first and then let ARC finish the job.
> 
> John



I understand. I'll need to order a longer XLR cable, and I'll work on placement of the sub. Thanks for the help.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19487399
> 
> 
> I understand. I'll need to order a longer XLR cable, and I'll work on placement of the sub. Thanks for the help.



Post your results after the next measurement.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CerberusII* /forum/post/19486766
> 
> 
> If I run ARC but chose not to upload the results, does my old ARC upload remain in the processor, or does it get cleared out?



There are two parts to the ARC Upload. First are the Room Correction parameters that are held in a special memory you can not see. They are not affected by a new ARC Measurement, so no need to do anything special to restore them if you do an ARC Measurement but then don't Upload new results.


However ARC also Uploads settings for speaker configuration, volume trims and crossovers into the Setup menu, and prior to an ARC Measurement or Quick Measure all that stuff gets set back to full range defaults so that ARC can hear the unadulterated output of your speakers for the new Measurement. (The Room Correction processing simply gets turned off during the Measurement. This happens in the AM/FM Source as I recall.)


So if you don't Upload an ARC result after a Measurement or Quick Measure, those Setup menu settings will be left in their default state, which means your previously loaded ARC solution won't work right.


One way to fix that is simply to open and re-Upload your most recent ARC results file. That will re-establish the Setup menu settings. It also re-Uploads the Room Correction parameters which hurts nothing but takes a bit of time.


Another way to fix that is to go into Setup and Reload Saved User or Installer Settings -- presuming you saved them after your most recent ARC Upload as you should do.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19486098
> 
> 
> No i did not thanks for the help,which i knew how to read these charts, im sure someone will get back to me and help me out, how do u use the quick measure i dont see it on my arc program,thanks again



The Manual is always your friend in such circumstances. See the ARC section under Setup in the Manual.


Open ARC in "Manual" mode -- the mode you use to view the charts -- and you will find Quick Measure in the Tools menu.


Quick Measure is simplicity itself to use. First it connects to the Anthem and then you specify which speaker you want to Measure. Quick Measure will send a continuous series of sweep tones to that speaker, while showing a Measured curve chart that updates in real time. After about 10 sweeps that chart will settle down and give you a useful look at how that one speaker is measuring at the current mic position. If you move the speaker, for example, after a few sweeps the chart will show a good look at what the new position is now giving you. Similarly, if you move the mic around, you can see the problem ARC has to deal with with different speaker response as heard from different positions.


The only trick to Quick Measure is to remember that it sets your Setup menu settings to the default settings ARC uses during Measurement. So when you finish with Quick Measure you need to re-establish your correct settings. You can do that by doing a new ARC Measurement and Uploading the results, or by opening your most recent ARC results file and Uploading THOSE results, or by Reloading Saved User or Installer Settings in Setup if in fact you remembered to save your settings there after your most recent ARC Upload.

--Bob


----------



## husker du




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/19486893
> 
> 
> What center do you run? I will not be surprised if you find the Citation improves you center/dialog experience.
> 
> 
> As far as matching amps, I would suggest that there are not enough specifications published to know if two amps matched sonically.



I am running a Paradigm Studio CC 690. It is currently bi-amped using the amplifer section of the Yamaha. It sounds much better bi-amped than single amped. We'll see how it sounds with the HK.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19486068
> 
> 
> The room is not acoustically treated. It is more or less a box shape though 20 x20 with an even 9 foot ceiling.
> 
> 
> The L,C,R,LS and RS are all identical speakers (infinity prelude MTS) and where designed with a low end max of 80hz. Could that not explain the drop off we are seeing in measurements at around 80hz with all of the speakers? They all drop off significantly at 90HZ and below which I thinks looks like a null but really is the speakers naturally limit in low end frequency extension. As an example, THE LS and RS speakers are corner mounted on the wall.. The LS has a hard wall and a soft wall (curtain) making its "corner"... so the measurements again make sense to me as the both surrounds are showing more gain (less steep drop off slope from 90HZ and below) on the low end of the frequency spectrum than L, R speakers which are positioned 2 feet from the front wall and 4 feet in from the side walls. The RS even has more low end gain than the LS which again makes sense because the RS is in a "hard" corner as opposed to the LS that is in a soft corner.
> 
> 
> Based on the room and the speaker placement, I am thinking the null is more directly effecting the SUB2. I am limited as to the placement of the sub2 and did position it for the best null eliminating position with Quick measure but I only did that with one mic placement (position 1).
> 
> 
> I could try to tweak the position more using Quick measure over more positions but I think i have it in its best spot right now. Thus I am wondering if it now makes sense to add PBK into the mix or not. I would also like to know if you agree with my reasoning above.
> 
> 
> Coud the sub null also have to do with incorrect phase and polarity setting at the 80Hz crossover point? I have not yet taken the time to check this. I currently have phase and polarity set to defaults... 0 phase and normal polarity.
> 
> 
> The room sounds quite good as is but I would like to get rid of the null if I could.



OK, it sounds like your speakers are supposed to have that bass drop off. Yes I think some more time experimenting with sub positioning would be a good idea. Particularly since your mains need help there (by design).


Polarity and Phase settings will not alter the sub's Measured curve if you only have one subwoofer, since ARC never hears the sub playing at the same time as any many speaker. I.e., Phase cancellation errors between sub and mains can't happen during ARC's Measurement sweep tones.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19485900
> 
> 
> Like the poster above, I also realized I had my SUB had its internal correction stuff running. Turned it off, and here are the new charts. (my old ones a few posts earlier)
> 
> 
> Thanks JayRay for all the help.



Folks, when you post ARC charts, also capture the Targets window and include that with the charts you post.


---------------------------------


I think you'd benefit by some repositioning experiments to see if you can improve the high frequency end of your sub output. You are down about 6dB at 120Hz below the solution. This is not so much a problem for steered bass from the mains, but it does mean you are losing some of the high frequency end of the LFE content.


Your Measured dip between 2 and 5KHz on LF/RF and C also puzzles me. ARC is correcting that, but when I see something like that it suggests to me you should check the drivers (both midrange and tweeters) in those 3 speakers. This could just be the normal response from your speakers, but put your ear up close to each driver in turn and make sure they are all firing. (Play some stereo music content using Stereo All audio mode to make this easier.)

--Bob


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19487640
> 
> 
> The Manual is always your friend in such circumstances. See the ARC section under Setup in the Manual.
> 
> 
> Open ARC in "Manual" mode -- the mode you use to view the charts -- and you will find Quick Measure in the Tools menu.
> 
> 
> Quick Measure is simplicity itself to use. First it connects to the Anthem and then you specify which speaker you want to Measure. Quick Measure will send a continuous series of sweep tones to that speaker, while showing a Measured curve chart that updates in real time. After about 10 sweeps that chart will settle down and give you a useful look at how that one speaker is measuring at the current mic position. If you move the speaker, for example, after a few sweeps the chart will show a good look at what the new position is now giving you. Similarly, if you move the mic around, you can see the problem ARC has to deal with with different speaker response as heard from different positions.
> 
> 
> The only trick to Quick Measure is to remember that it sets your Setup menu settings to the default settings ARC uses during Measurement. So when you finish with Quick Measure you need to re-establish your correct settings. You can do that by doing a new ARC Measurement and Uploading the results, or by opening your most recent ARC results file and Uploading THOSE results, or by Reloading Saved User or Installer Settings in Setup if in fact you remembered to save your settings there after your most recent ARC Upload.
> 
> --Bob



i have to move the sub around to find the flatest responce between 50 &100 hz according to my charts?, bob did you look at my charts to see if i have any other issues, thank you


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19485792
> 
> 
> i have the pardign sig servo 15" SUB were do i find the correction filtering at. what do i have to do to reposition the sub in the quick measure , here is my target graph. otherwise do u think the charts look good thank u .
> 
> 
> 
> l



Your only significant problem in these charts is the high end of your sub. It looks like it has its internal crossover still active. From the follow-on posts it looks like you are already on that case. Of course you will need to re-Measure when you correct that in the sub.


Although your room looks like it doesn't have much Room Gain, I think I'd be tempted to push Room Gain up a bit more, particularly for Movie. Try moving it up to 2dB, accept that change, and re-Calculate to see how the curves look (no need to re-Measure to experiment with this). Another goal here would be to see if you can smooth out that residual error ripple in the green Calculated curve for Center in the bass. It may take a combo of tweaking Room Gain and also tweaking the cutoff/crossover value for Center just a tad.


You may find that your solution changes when you get the sub output more full range. So fix that first before you bother with any other tweaking.


Also, if you are planning on using the Music configuration as a separate configuration, make sure you do Targets changes as appropriate on that side of the Targets window as well.


You can select your Music configuration charts for viewing using ARC's View menu.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19487640
> 
> 
> The Manual is always your friend in such circumstances. See the ARC section under Setup in the Manual.
> 
> 
> Open ARC in "Manual" mode -- the mode you use to view the charts -- and you will find Quick Measure in the Tools menu.
> 
> 
> Quick Measure is simplicity itself to use. First it connects to the Anthem and then you specify which speaker you want to Measure. Quick Measure will send a continuous series of sweep tones to that speaker, while showing a Measured curve chart that updates in real time. After about 10 sweeps that chart will settle down and give you a useful look at how that one speaker is measuring at the current mic position. If you move the speaker, for example, after a few sweeps the chart will show a good look at what the new position is now giving you. Similarly, if you move the mic around, you can see the problem ARC has to deal with with different speaker response as heard from different positions.
> 
> 
> The only trick to Quick Measure is to remember that it sets your Setup menu settings to the default settings ARC uses during Measurement. So when you finish with Quick Measure you need to re-establish your correct settings. You can do that by doing a new ARC Measurement and Uploading the results, or by opening your most recent ARC results file and Uploading THOSE results, or by Reloading Saved User or Installer Settings in Setup if in fact you remembered to save your settings there after your most recent ARC Upload.
> 
> --Bob



i have to move the sub around to find the flatest responce between 50 &100 hz according to my charts, bob did you look at my charts to see if i have any other issues, thank you


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19487736
> 
> 
> i have to move the sub around to find the flatest responce between 50 &100 hz according to my charts?, bob did you look at my charts to see if i have any other issues, thank you



See my post above.


I don't think your sub problem is a positioning problem. Right now it simply looks like you've mistakenly got its internal crossover still enabled which is limiting its output at higher bass frequencies.


Turn off any crossover processing in the sub. For some sub's that's a switch. For other's it is a separate input that bypasses the crossover. And for still others all you can do is crank the sub's crossover frequency up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.


Then re-Measure for ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/19484329
> 
> 
> Has Anthem done any hardware "upgrades" in the past that would be comparable? If so, what was the fee?
> 
> 
> That is an excellent argument
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Sure. Anthem offered D1 owners the ability to add a video board and turn their D1 into a D2. The total cost to the D1 owners was more than if they had just bought a new D2, but of course if they'd waited to do that they wouldn't have had a D1 to use for all that time.


AVM 50 owners were also offered the ability to swap out the audio DSP board in their unit with a new dual-DSP board that supported ARC. In that case the cost of the hardware was minimal, and so getting an ARC upgrade was clearly a great deal compared to having waited and buying a new AVM 50v (which comes bundled with ARC). But in addition to the time delay, there's also the factor that the AVM 50v included other enhancements besides just ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19483839
> 
> 
> What should I make of the massive dip on all speakers at 10khz?



I think you should email your ARC results file (not just the screen captured charts) to Anthem Tech Support and see what they make of it. They have tools that let them examine the raw measurement data in the file.


They may want to do a mic swap with you just to eliminate that as a possibility.


You are not doing any correction up there, so it isn't affecting your ARC results, but still, that is one heck of a dip.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

im kind of limited were i can put my sub,but tomorrow i will get a longer cable and try it on the other side of the rm, now it is behind my seating area about 3' once i find a good space for it i guess i have to do a re measure for the new location. should i do this for any of the other speakers or will they benifit just from a rm gain change.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19487828
> 
> 
> im kind of limited were i can put my sub,but tomorrow i will get a longer cable and try it on the other side of the rm, now it is behind my seating area about 3' once i find a good space for it i guess i have to do a re measure for the new location. should i do this for any of the other speakers or will they benifit just from a rm gain change.



You don't have any significant problem with the other speakers, so really the only thing left to do for them is some modest tweaking of the ARC Targets to see if you can get the Calculated results any cleaner than they already are. The Room Gain thing is kind of a matter of taste. Movie mixers tend to assume a modest Room Gain in home theaters and right now you are a bit below that.


No, you should be focussed on getting the high end of your sub in shape. Again, it looks to me like you still have a crossover active in it, so check that BEFORE you spend any time trying sub repositioning.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

i have it turned all the way to 150 hz so that should of cut it off, any other suggestions.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19487855
> 
> 
> i have it turned all the way to 150 hz so that should of cut it off, any other suggestions.



And that's the way it was when you produced the ARC charts you posted?


If you are sure it is off, then repositioning is your next step.


Make sure you don't have a THX mode set in the sub, as that may be imposing a fixed, 80Hz crossover independent of that dial setting.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/19487185
> 
> 
> Infinity Prelude MTS speakers were/are world-class engineered with individual powered subwoofers for each speaker. I am guessing you are turning off the MTS subwoofers? The 80Hz crossover is 24dB/octave so that would drop it off very rapidly.
> 
> 
> With the integrated subwoofer they give incredible flat frequency response (+/- 3dB from 23Hz to 22kHz). Be very interested to see how ARC treats them with the subwoofers turned on?
> 
> 
> Cheers.



yes, I really like those speakers. I used to have two prelude mts subs. They have both recently gone bad. They were nice but tended to bottom out with todays more bass heavy movies.


So, I have removed them from the system and repaced them with one sub 2.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19487670
> 
> 
> OK, it sounds like your speakers are supposed to have that bass drop off. Yes I think some more time experimenting with sub positioning would be a good idea. Particularly since your mains need help there (by design).
> 
> 
> Polarity and Phase settings will not alter the sub's Measured curve if you only have one subwoofer, since ARC never hears the sub playing at the same time as any many speaker. I.e., Phase cancellation errors between sub and mains can't happen during ARC's Measurement sweep tones.
> 
> --Bob



Is there a type of acoustic treatment that would be could to try to erase that null?


There is not much I can do regarding positioning.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19487322
> 
> 
> Your sub is a monster and the dip from 100 to 50 Hz is really limiting your LFE response. PBK is not likely to make much of a diff since both ARC and PBK are working on targets based on the same measurement. Moving the sub is your only choice but will yield, I think, a spectacular improvement.
> 
> John



I will play with positioning but there is not much I can do. Can you suggest a type of acoustic treatment to help with that null?


----------



## buckley44

yes bob i had it turned all the way to 150hz i have no thx enabled here are some charts after i put a crossover of 60 on the sub in the targets menue.

 

Doc3.doc 59k . file

 

Doc4.doc 73.5k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19488105
> 
> 
> Is there a type of acoustic treatment that would be could to try to erase that null?
> 
> 
> There is not much I can do regarding positioning.



I'm not going to be much help to you on a question like that, I'm afraid. However, as I recall there's a whole forum here dedicated to folks discussing audio treatments for listening rooms.


On positioning, a couple feet or even a few inches can make a difference for how the speaker couples to the room for bass frequencies. Height can also be a factor. Some speakers really do want to be on feet raised off the floor.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19488144
> 
> 
> yes bob i had it turned all the way to 150hz i have no thx enabled here are some charts after i put a crossover of 60 on the sub in the targets menue.



That's going the wrong way. You've reduced the high frequency output of the sub further.


Of course it may be that an 80Hz roll off is just the best this particular sub can do up there.


Even though you wouldn't want to use such positioning for real, it would make sense to move the sub around while doing a Quick Measure just to see if a better upper frequency response is even available from it. For example, you might move it up a side wall or move it into the center of the room a few feet in front of the screen. Again, the idea is not to leave it there but just to see what your sub might be capable of in that room. If your sub doesn't have any better output available in the higher bass frequencies, REGARDLESS of location, the easiest answer here might be a replacement sub.


Again, the issue is not the sub's ability to support your main speakers for bass steering from them. That's covered with what you've got now. But your sub is currently not handling the upper frequencies of LFE (which finally goes away around 120Hz). You've also got some roll off at the lowest bass frequencies, but really it's the range from 80 to 120Hz that I'd like to see improved to better match the quality of your main speakers.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

i have the signature 8's by paridigm and the signature series servo sub 15" the specs on that says it can go as low as 10hz it should'nt have any problem driving the speakers. JayRay in a previous post said he had the same sub, my whole 7.1 system is the signature series with the p5 amp and classe cam 400's mono's driving the front speakers. it has to be something i must be doing wrong?


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19487710
> 
> 
> Folks, when you post ARC charts, also capture the Targets window and include that with the charts you post.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> I think you'd benefit by some repositioning experiments to see if you can improve the high frequency end of your sub output. You are down about 6dB at 120Hz below the solution. This is not so much a problem for steered bass from the mains, but it does mean you are losing some of the high frequency end of the LFE content.
> 
> 
> Your Measured dip between 2 and 5KHz on LF/RF and C also puzzles me. ARC is correcting that, but when I see something like that it suggests to me you should check the drivers (both midrange and tweeters) in those 3 speakers. This could just be the normal response from your speakers, but put your ear up close to each driver in turn and make sure they are all firing. (Play some stereo music content using Stereo All audio mode to make this easier.)
> 
> --Bob



Repositioning experiments completed. Also downloaded Firmware 2.10 and used ARC 3.01. I think that's why the db level is lower on these.


Better?


P.S. Bob and JayRay...I really appreciate the feedback. Your help has made this whole thing a lot more fun than it would have been on my own!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19488785
> 
> 
> i have the signature 8's by paridigm and the signature series servo sub 15" the specs on that says it can go as low as 10hz it should'nt have any problem driving the speakers. JayRay in a previous post said he had the same sub, my whole 7.1 system is the signature series with the p5 amp and classe cam 400's mono's driving the front speakers. it has to be something i must be doing wrong?



Anthem and Paradigm are, of course, the same people. Give Anthem tech support a call and see if they can figure this out for you, as they'll be very familiar with your sub. I agree there may be some simple mistake you are making in how you have the sub set up.


But positioning can be amazingly important for subs. JAYRAY for example got an astounding improvement by moving his sub from the front of the room to a location up along a side wall.


And with this quality of hardware, there's no reason you should settle for anything less than perfection from your sub.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19488818
> 
> 
> Repositioning experiments completed. Also downloaded Firmware 2.10 and used ARC 3.01. I think that's why the db level is lower on these.
> 
> 
> Better?
> 
> 
> P.S. Bob and JayRay...I really appreciate the feedback. Your help has made this whole thing a lot more fun than it would have been on my own!



Yes, much better, although you still have that hole at 10KHz. I suspect that's a mic problem, but it is not affecting your ARC results since you've got correction stopping at 5KHz. I still think you should talk to Anthem about that, though.


If you previously had to lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level the additional 6dB to get a solution near 75dB from your older ARC, you can undo that now. That particular issue has been fixed in ARC V3.0 and later. Undoing that would raise your solution level again.


The sub looks fine now. Actually all of the speakers should sound quite good with this solution. (I.e., there's no rush to redo it just to raise the levels.)


How does it sound?

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

when i call anthem will they look at the charts for me also? or should i just tell them about the higher bass frequencies being off or not what they should and that im dropping off some of the lower frequencies also, or if you have a better way i can explain it to them ? thanks for your help Bob.....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19488878
> 
> 
> when i call anthem will they look at the charts for me also? or should i just tell them about the higher bass frequencies being off or not what they should and that im dropping off some of the lower frequencies also, or if you have a better way i can explain it to them ? thanks for your help Bob.....



Email them your ARC results file. They can get more info from that than just from the charts. But I suspect what they will first do is go over the basics with you about how you have your subwoofer configured, just to make sure there isn't some silly setup mistake getting in the way. Again, you have the advantage that they know your sub.


The Anthem tech support folks are good people. There's no reason in the world to hesitate getting in touch with them on a puzzle like this.


Meanwhile, you really should consider doing some Quick Measure experiments with the sub in different locations, even if there's no practical way to leave the sub there permanently. Let's figure out if this really *IS* a positioning issue or whether it is something screwy going on with your sub.

--Bob


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19487784
> 
> 
> See my post above.
> 
> 
> I don't think your sub problem is a positioning problem. Right now it simply looks like you've mistakenly got its internal crossover still enabled which is limiting its output at higher bass frequencies.
> 
> 
> Turn off any crossover processing in the sub. For some sub's that's a switch. For other's it is a separate input that bypasses the crossover. And for still others all you can do is crank the sub's crossover frequency up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.
> 
> 
> Then re-Measure for ARC.
> 
> --Bob



This sounds very familiar. I have Servo Sub as well, placed in the corner it looked like it was EQ'd but was not . The solution was placement. It really appeared as if the servo function was interacting with the room in a way that resulted in significantly reduced output. Once I moved it all was well.


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *husker du* /forum/post/19487649
> 
> 
> I am running a Paradigm Studio CC 690. It is currently bi-amped using the amplifer section of the Yamaha. It sounds much better bi-amped than single amped. We'll see how it sounds with the HK.



My odds just went up.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/19488936
> 
> 
> This sounds very familiar. I have Servo Sub as well, placed in the corner it looked like it was EQ'd but was not . The solution was placement. It really appeared as if the servo function was interacting with the room in a way that resulted in significantly reduced output. Once I moved it all was well.



Yes, that's right. We've had several cases reported here where it appears the servo mechanism in certain servo subs was working AGAINST sub performance when set in locations near corners. Good comment!


Again, folks, it is EASY to try sub re-positioning using Quick Measure in ARC. Even if the ideal location (via Quick Measure) is not practical, you'll still learn something useful about how your sub couples with the room in different placement scenarios.


Keep in mind that this sort of stuff is specific to each model of sub. For example, my Velodyne DD series servo sub just loves sitting near a good, solid walled corner.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19487828
> 
> 
> im kind of limited were i can put my sub,but tomorrow i will get a longer cable and try it on the other side of the rm, now it is behind my seating area about 3' once i find a good space for it i guess i have to do a re measure for the new location. should i do this for any of the other speakers or will they benifit just from a rm gain change.




**********************************************************

Bob Pariseau


I wonder if you noticed where buckley44 states he has his single sub positioned and if that is contributing to his problem.


" now it is behind my seating area "


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19488111
> 
> 
> I will play with positioning but there is not much I can do. Can you suggest a type of acoustic treatment to help with that null?



|M|B.M.F:


I've had good success from the folks from Ready Acoustics, who help tame my small room (apartment) from secondary reflections and resonances. The net result is that my bass and treble response is no longer 'jaggy' looking and room echos have been elimimated. You can send them the layout of your room (with dimensions), plus some photographs of your HT and they'll come up with a room treatment package based of their calculations of your predominant room modes. Ready Acoustics, GSK and Acoustical Sciences make some very effective and room friendly bass traps. They are beautiful too and will enhance the decor of your room as well.


David


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19488856
> 
> 
> Yes, much better, although you still have that hole at 10KHz. I suspect that's a mic problem, but it is not affecting your ARC results since you've got correction stopping at 5KHz. I still think you should talk to Anthem about that, though.
> 
> 
> If you previously had to lower Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level the additional 6dB to get a solution near 75dB from your older ARC, you can undo that now. That particular issue has been fixed in ARC V3.0 and later. Undoing that would raise your solution level again.
> 
> 
> The sub looks fine now. Actually all of the speakers should sound quite good with this solution. (I.e., there's no rush to redo it just to raise the levels.)
> 
> 
> How does it sound?
> 
> --Bob



Sounds amazing. Seriously.


I"ll e-mail Anthem about the dip. I believe I read somewhere its a common mic misread with B&W speakers. I'll post what they tell me.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19488818
> 
> 
> Repositioning experiments completed. Also downloaded Firmware 2.10 and used ARC 3.01. I think that's why the db level is lower on these.
> 
> 
> Better?
> 
> 
> P.S. Bob and JayRay...I really appreciate the feedback. Your help has made this whole thing a lot more fun than it would have been on my own!



Sub looks much better and notice the crossover is now higher. Need some good LFE stories now









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *video_bit_bucket* /forum/post/19488936
> 
> 
> This sounds very familiar. I have Servo Sub as well, placed in the corner it looked like it was EQ'd but was not . The solution was placement. It really appeared as if the servo function was interacting with the room in a way that resulted in significantly reduced output. Once I moved it all was well.



Exactly, same happended to me with my servo 15.

John


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19489502
> 
> 
> Exactly, same happended to me with my servo 15.
> 
> John



is that why you replaced it? when i do the quick measure i guess i have to physically move the servo around to better positions until i find the best place for it.JayRay you not that will be a chore because of how heave it is. were you ever able to solve your problem with your servo?


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19489122
> 
> 
> **********************************************************
> 
> Bob Pariseau
> 
> 
> I wonder if you noticed where buckley44 states he has his single sub positioned and if that is contributing to his problem.
> 
> 
> " now it is behind my seating area "



yes i have it just behind my seating area on the side wall facing into the room.


----------



## tokinit

Hi


Trying to configure a D2 to connect to a Pioneer Kuro LX5090,while connecting a 360 and a Virgin Media Samsung V+ to the D2.


Cannot get the D2 to connect to the Kuro via HDMI no matter what I try. I've got it connected through component 1920x1080i60, but not HDMI:

Running v1.33 software, reset to factory settings.


Using Mark Grant HDMI cables cat 2 speed rated for 48 Bit deep colour, even tried the one that came with the 360.


Set to HDMI preferred output, tried all different resolutions, inverting signal, changing colour space and data.


I've got all picture assists and processing turned off on the Kuro, also configured it for HDMI input, tried tried different HDMI inputs. Fine through component.


360 will connect to D2 through HDMI fine but D2 will only accept sound as Stereo and not DD5.1. I've got it connected through component, 720p for games and native resolutions for DVD's, watched one last night, 576p to D2 and it looked stunning even through the 360 and at 1920x1080i60. Sound is fine through Optical DD5.1 DTS, etc.


Can't get anything from the Samsung V+ to the D2 through HDMI, I can get sound through Optical fine and picture to the Kuro through HDMI.


Has anybody got experience connecting the 9th generation Pioneer displays, the LX5090 Kuro in particular, the 360 or the Samsung V+.


I thought I might of just been missing a trick at first, but now I'm beginning to think it might be a HDMI handshake issue. The HDMI video card of the D2 seems to be working as it will accept HDMI video from the 360.


Any help is appreciated.


Marc.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19489602
> 
> 
> is that why you replaced it? when i do the quick measure i guess i have to physically move the servo around to better positions until i find the best place for it.JayRay you not that will be a chore because of how heave it is. were you ever able to solve your problem with your servo?



I moved my servo from the right front corner along the wall towards my seats about 8ft. It was an amazing change. I did not change subs for that reason as the results looked better than most, it was the price I could get a Sub 25 for and the lower extension it can produce. BTW, the sub 25 is now in the same spot and when I move it around using the quick measure most other spots are not good at all. The same spot for both subs, one servo the other not.

John


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19489732
> 
> 
> I moved my servo from the right front corner along the wall towards my seats about 8ft. It was an amazing change. I did not change subs for that reason as the results looked better than most, it was the price I could get a Sub 25 for and the lower extension it can produce. BTW, the sub 25 is now in the same spot and when I move it around using the quick measure most other spots are not good at all. The same spot for both subs, one servo the other not.
> 
> John



do you really like your sub 25? if i decided to add another sub then it does not have to be the same as the servo? i imagine your 2 different subs made a big chang in your system,and do your charts look much better with the new placement of the servo? thanks Jay....


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19488748
> 
> 
> That's going the wrong way. You've reduced the high frequency output of the sub further.
> 
> 
> Of course it may be that an 80Hz roll off is just the best this particular sub can do up there.
> 
> 
> Even though you wouldn't want to use such positioning for real, it would make sense to move the sub around while doing a Quick Measure just to see if a better upper frequency response is even available from it. For example, you might move it up a side wall or move it into the center of the room a few feet in front of the screen. Again, the idea is not to leave it there but just to see what your sub might be capable of in that room. If your sub doesn't have any better output available in the higher bass frequencies, REGARDLESS of location, the easiest answer here might be a replacement sub.
> 
> 
> Again, the issue is not the sub's ability to support your main speakers for bass steering from them. That's covered with what you've got now. But your sub is currently not handling the upper frequencies of LFE (which finally goes away around 120Hz). You've also got some roll off at the lowest bass frequencies, but really it's the range from 80 to 120Hz that I'd like to see improved to better match the quality of your main speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Are you sure this is the wrong way, I believe you instructed me to do this way back when? If he turns the cut off freqency way up to it's max 150Hz does this not stop the sub from cutting off at certain freqencies and let the Anthem do the work?.


After reading it again, maybe you were talking about buckley changing his crossover. If that's the case, disregard my comment.










John


----------



## buckley44

Thank you men for looking into this for me, its driving me crazy.... and im sure my wife too, although she thinks it sounds good no matter what but i can hear the problem.....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19490435
> 
> 
> Are you sure this is the wrong way, I believe you instructed me to do this way back when? If he turns the cut off freqency way up to it's max 150Hz does this not stop the sub from cutting off at certain freqencies and let the Anthem do the work?.
> 
> 
> After reading it again, maybe you were talking about buckley changing his crossover. If that's the case, disregard my comment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Yes, that's the case. ARC selected a cutoff of 80Hz, and he moved it down to 60Hz, which just further reduced the high bass frequency output of his sub.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tokinit* /forum/post/19489676
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> Trying to configure a D2 to connect to a Pioneer Kuro LX5090,while connecting a 360 and a Virgin Media Samsung V+ to the D2.
> 
> 
> Cannot get the D2 to connect to the Kuro via HDMI no matter what I try. I’ve got it connected through component 1920x1080i60, but not HDMI:
> 
> Running v1.33 software, reset to factory settings.
> 
> 
> Using Mark Grant HDMI cables cat 2 speed rated for 48 Bit deep colour, even tried the one that came with the 360.
> 
> 
> Set to HDMI preferred output, tried all different resolutions, inverting signal, changing colour space and data.
> 
> 
> I’ve got all picture assists and processing turned off on the Kuro, also configured it for HDMI input, tried tried different HDMI inputs. Fine through component.
> 
> 
> 360 will connect to D2 through HDMI fine but D2 will only accept sound as Stereo and not DD5.1. I’ve got it connected through component, 720p for games and native resolutions for DVD’s, watched one last night, 576p to D2 and it looked stunning even through the 360 and at 1920x1080i60. Sound is fine through Optical DD5.1 DTS, etc.
> 
> 
> Can’t get anything from the Samsung V+ to the D2 through HDMI, I can get sound through Optical fine and picture to the Kuro through HDMI.
> 
> 
> Has anybody got experience connecting the 9th generation Pioneer displays, the LX5090 Kuro in particular, the 360 or the Samsung V+.
> 
> 
> I thought I might of just been missing a trick at first, but now I’m beginning to think it might be a HDMI handshake issue. The HDMI video card of the D2 seems to be working as it will accept HDMI video from the 360.
> 
> 
> Any help is appreciated.
> 
> 
> Marc.



Start by making sure the D2's internally generated video will display.


Select a Source with nothing connected for video. First try to bring up the Setup menu. Does it display on your Kuro? Use the Back button to exit the Setup menu.


Now press and hold the "7" button until the Video Source Adjust menu appears on screen. Can you get it to display? If so, scroll over to the Patterns tab and then select the color bars pattern. Does it fill the Kuro screen and look correct?


If these items display and look correct and stable then the output to your Kuro is working correctly and your problems are on the input side.


If you can't get Setup or the video Patterns to appear then the problem is on the output side and you need to fix that before worrying about getting video from any given source device.


To address output side problems, first set the HDMI output to 480p (not 480i) as 480p is the simplest signal for an HDMI connection. If you can get that to work, then try 1080i, and then finally back to 1080p. If only 1080p is failing then you could have a marginal cable, despite having purchased a good cable.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19489612
> 
> 
> yes i have it just behind my seating area on the side wall facing into the room.



There's no reason that location shouldn't work, except of course that any given location may couple badly with the room for bass frequencies. Subs work by pressurizing the entire listening area (which is why bass seems to come "from everywhere"), so you can use just about any location in the room.


You don't want the sub TOO close to the seating as then you will be in its "near field" and you will hear it differently, e.g., it will sound like bass is coming from the sub instead of from all around you. So don't use your sub as an end table at the sofa for example.


Here's a trick for finding candidate sub locations: Put the sub at the center seating location. Ideally it should be up in the air at seat height but that's usually not practical so just leave it on the floor. Move the seat out of the way.


Now run Quick Measure and move the ARC mic around to various possible sub locations. Position the mic pointing straight up but only about a foot or so off the floor (i.e., where the sub would be if it were there). Let a few sweeps pass so that the chart stabilizes and see what you get. The way the sub couples to the room is reversible like this so when you find a place that produces a good Quick Measure chart, then that's a good candidate location for the sub. In short order you will be able to identify a handful of candidate locations.


Keep in mind that inches can make a difference in sub response, particularly with regard to spacing near walls and corners. So if you move the sub over to a candidate location and don't get as good a response with the ARC mic now back at center seating (at normal, seated, ear height), try shifting the sub around a bit at that candidate location.


Remember that you are not trying to find a candidate location that produces a perfect sub output curve. ARC will clean things up. What you are looking for is one that improves the range of high bass frequency output first, and reduces the roll off at the lowest frequencies second.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19490147
> 
> 
> do you really like your sub 25? if i decided to add another sub then it does not have to be the same as the servo? i imagine your 2 different subs made a big chang in your system,and do your charts look much better with the new placement of the servo? thanks Jay....



I sold my servo and use only the sub 25. It is more than capable of pressurizing my room. My chart is now perfection, partly from the sub 25 and partly from it's room location. I don't require two subs with this setup.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19489262
> 
> 
> Sounds amazing. Seriously.
> 
> 
> I"ll e-mail Anthem about the dip. I believe I read somewhere its a common mic misread with B&W speakers. I'll post what they tell me.



Looks like you may be soon be a candidate for some grinning heads bouncing in glee!

--Bob


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19490653
> 
> 
> There's no reason that location shouldn't work, except of course that any given location may couple badly with the room for bass frequencies. Subs work by pressurizing the entire listening area (which is why bass seems to come "from everywhere"), so you can use just about any location in the room.
> 
> 
> You don't want the sub TOO close to the seating as then you will be in its "near field" and you will hear it differently, e.g., it will sound like bass is coming from the sub instead of from all around you. So don't use your sub as an end table at the sofa for example.
> 
> 
> Here's a trick for finding candidate sub locations: Put the sub at the center seating location. Ideally it should be up in the air at seat height but that's usually not practical so just leave it on the floor. Move the seat out of the way.
> 
> 
> Now run Quick Measure and move the ARC mic around to various possible sub locations. Position the mic pointing straight up but only about a foot or so off the floor (i.e., where the sub would be if it were there). Let a few sweeps pass so that the chart stabilizes and see what you get. The way the sub couples to the room is reversible like this so when you find a place that produces a good Quick Measure chart, then that's a good candidate location for the sub. In short order you will be able to identify a handful of candidate locations.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that inches can make a difference in sub response, particularly with regard to spacing near walls and corners. So if you move the sub over to a candidate location and don't get as good a response with the ARC mic now back at center seating (at normal, seated, ear height), try shifting the sub around a bit at that candidate location.
> 
> 
> Remember that you are not trying to find a candidate location that produces a perfect sub output curve. ARC will clean things up. What you are looking for is one that improves the range of high bass frequency output first, and reduces the roll off at the lowest frequencies second.
> 
> --Bob



what exactly am i looking for in these charts i probley won't know what im looking at even if i find a good location for the sub or any speaker for that fact since i have about 0 knowledge on it, anything u can do to help me besides sending me back to college lol......


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19490991
> 
> 
> what exactly am i looking for in these charts i probley won't know what im looking at even if i find a good location for the sub or any speaker for that fact since i have about 0 knowledge on it, anything u can do to help me besides sending me back to college lol......



Like this. See attachment


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19489501
> 
> 
> Sub looks much better and notice the crossover is now higher. Need some good LFE stories now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



The LFE is really tight now. Watched Bourne Ultimatum on HDDVD last night, and got blown back in my seat a few times.


As for the crossover, I'm pretty sure it was 60 HZ every time I ran ARC, including this last one that fixed some of the issues with moving the speakers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19491063
> 
> 
> The LFE is really tight now. Watched Bourne Ultimatum on HDDVD last night, and got blown back in my seat a few times.
> 
> 
> As for the crossover, I'm pretty sure it was 60 HZ every time I ran ARC, including this last one that fixed some of the issues with moving the speakers.



Yes the sub crossover will be lower to match with your mains, but the sub "cutoff" has been raised which means ARC is applying correction to it further up -- and thus better high end for your LFE.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19490991
> 
> 
> what exactly am i looking for in these charts i probley won't know what im looking at even if i find a good location for the sub or any speaker for that fact since i have about 0 knowledge on it, anything u can do to help me besides sending me back to college lol......



In that sub chart JAYRAY posted for you, what you should be looking at is the red Measured curve since that's what Quick Measure will show you. Notice that his Measured (i.e., raw, uncorrected) output from the sub at the high frequency end still has good output levels even up to and above 100Hz. Compare to the red Measured curve for your sub and see how rapidly your sub's raw output drops off above 60hz.


Meanwhile at the other end, note that the raw output for JAYRAY's sub has essentially no roll off as it exits the left hand side of the chart at the lowest frequencies.


Now you may not get as good a response as JAYRAY lucked into when he repositioned his sub, but what the red Measured curve in his chart is showing will give you an idea of how good it MIGHT be.


(Now also look at the green Calculated curve in JAYRAY's chart to see what ARC did with that raw output from his sub. That's what we are talking about. Give ARC something to work with and it will produce sweet results)

--Bob


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19491155
> 
> 
> Yes the sub crossover will be lower to match with your mains, but the sub "cutoff" has been raised which means ARC is applying correction to it further up -- and thus better high end for your LFE.
> 
> --Bob



Got it. Thanks Bob. Really enjoying this AVM50v. After ARC, and maybe even before, it definitely has outperformed my old ARCAM AVR600.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19491216
> 
> 
> Got it. Thanks Bob. Really enjoying this AVM50v. After ARC, and maybe even before, it definitely has outperformed my old ARCAM AVR600.



Well these guys just couldn't restrain themselves any longer:







































--Bob


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19491028
> 
> 
> Like this. See attachment



so on you sub were your red line is above the target there's were my sub should be ,and how about on your fronts were the green line fall's down i was thinking you should follow the line as much as possible, but thats not always the case? and i see were your sub the line goes to 500 were my line is at 250?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19491251
> 
> 
> so on you sub were your red line is above the target there's were my sub should be ,and how about on your fronts were the green line fall's down i was thinking you should follow the line as much as possible, but thats not always the case? and i see were your sub the line goes to 500 were my line is at 250?



Read my post. Ignore JAYRAY's Target and Calculated lines. They are DERIVED from the red Measured line.


What you need to do is improve the raw, uncorrected output of your sub -- its red Measured line.


The good Target and Calculated lines will follow if your get the raw output good enough.


Quick Measure will only show you the raw output.

--Bob


----------



## CerberusII

Bob,


I ran ARC again this morning with the same results as before. I tried a few sub quick measure pointing and repositioning methods without much difference. Please see my post at the top here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8260&page=1036 


Any suggestions?


Thank you.

-Chris


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CerberusII* /forum/post/19491280
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I ran ARC again this morning with the same results as before. I tried a few sub quick measure pointing and repositioning methods without much difference. Please see my post at the top here:
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8260&page=1036
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> -Chris



For some reason I'm not seeing your ARC results charts in that post -- only your room diagram. Could you please repost your ARC results charts and also the ARC Targets window that goes with them?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

This is actually my latest measurement. This was done using PBK first and then ARC using the advanced option setting sub high pass to FLAt.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19491453
> 
> 
> This is actually my latest measurement.
> 
> 
> John



WOW!!!!! Your sub looks OUTSTANDING!!!!!!!


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19491453
> 
> 
> This is actually my latest measurement. This was done using PBK first and then ARC using the advanced option setting sub high pass to FLAt.
> 
> John



jay can you come over to my house and set my sub up,it might help save my marriage.lol


----------



## CerberusII




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19491289
> 
> 
> For some reason I'm not seeing your ARC results charts in that post -- only your room diagram. Could you please repost your ARC results charts and also the ARC Targets window that goes with them?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I updated the post with my ARC charts.


-Chris


----------



## buckley44

This is the answer just got from anthem regarding my charts.


According to your graphs ARC is determining that the front speakers should be playing the upper portion of the bass signal.


There is nothing wrong with the current ARC graph.


For different results you may want to try moving the subwoofer to a different location.


Also use an external SPL meter along with the SUB test tone in the level calibration menu of the Anthem and tune the Sub to 75dB.


This is done adjusting the level on the back of the sub itself and not in the level calibration menu.


Leave that level at 0.0dB


Make sure your crossover on the sub it set to 150Hz or the highest possible value.


This will ensure the cross over is not being applied.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CerberusII* /forum/post/19483055
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thank you for the reply. My subs use Monster THX Ultra cable with Neutrik Speakon (press and twist on/off) connectors to the dedicated amp. I believe that this would take polarity/phase issues out of the equation. I believe that my only option here may be to point the subs differently. I don’t really have much of an option to move them within the room.
> 
> As for the treble, I played several tracks in All Stereo mode as well as listening to the AIX Records blu-ray sampler. Everything actually sounded fantastic; much better than the Aragon StageOne that I am replacing. The tweeters are all functioning and quite eardrum piercing at higher volume levels.
> 
> A little setup/room info:
> 
> AVM50v/Aragon 2007 200Wx7
> 
> L/C/R Klipsch KL-525-THX
> 
> Sur/Back Klipsch KS-525-THX
> 
> 
> My setup consists of all horn tweeters that have a dispersion of 90deg x 60deg. All of my surround speakers are bi-directional (triangle shaped with horn/mid on two sides. The LR are sitting on the subs and the center is on AV cabinet all 16” from front wall and are a bit below ear level (10” below front row ear level and 18” below rear row) and the surrounds are at 78” from the floor putting them about 40”ish inches above ear level. The subs are 9” from front wall and 22” from side walls. They have front firing slot ports.
> 
> I have attached a rough diagram of the room. The blue numbers are the ARC Mic positions.
> 
> Any positioning or pointing suggestions based on this information?
> 
> I won’t have the opportunity to run ARC again until tomorrow as my girlfriend borrowed the laptop I use.
> 
> Thank You.
> 
> -Chris



Well as I said in my original response, the main problem is the output from your pair of subs.


Run a Quick Measure on the subs with only 1 sub powered at a time and then compare against both subs running. If the individual sub outputs look good but the combined output shows the deep dips shown in these charts then you have cancellation going on between the subs. That is most likely a Polarity problem, but could be Phase as it is happening through the crossover frequencies.


The sharp drop off in treble might be a mic issue since it is showing for LF/RF as well. I would expect the surrounds to drop off in treble due to he sharp angles between them and the mic positions. In any event, that isn't affecting your ARC solution as you aren't correcting above 5KHz. I'd say your Measured treble is probably reliable up to say 10KHz.


For your first 3 mic positions along the rear wall, make sure you have at least a foot (18 inches better) gap away from that rear wall.


Move the mics about a foot closer to the screen (above the seat cushion at seated ear height) as necessary to get them away from that rear wall. You don't want the mic tip to be close to a reflecting or blocking surface like a seat back or wall.

--Bob


----------



## CerberusII




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19491786
> 
> 
> Well as I said in my original response, the main problem is the output from your pair of subs.
> 
> 
> Run a Quick Measure on the subs with only 1 sub powered at a time and then compare against both subs running. If the individual sub outputs look good but the combined output shows the deep dips shown in these charts then you have cancellation going on between the subs. That is most likely a Polarity problem, but could be Phase as it is happening through the crossover frequencies.
> 
> 
> The sharp drop off in treble might be a mic issue since it is showing for LF/RF as well. I would expect the surrounds to drop off in treble due to he sharp angles between them and the mic positions. In any event, that isn't affecting your ARC solution as you aren't correcting above 5KHz. I'd say your Measured treble is probably reliable up to say 10KHz.
> 
> 
> For your first 3 mic positions along the rear wall, make sure you have at least a foot (18 inches better) gap away from that rear wall.
> 
> 
> Move the mics about a foot closer to the screen (above the seat cushion at seated ear height) as necessary to get them away from that rear wall. You don't want the mic tip to be close to a reflecting or blocking surface like a seat back or wall.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I will try it out. Do you by chance have an example of what a good sub chart looks like so i have something to compare? Would bringing the LCRs to ear level or having the surrounds pointing more downward (they are flat against the wall now, and high above ear level) fix the treble issues?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19491236
> 
> 
> Well these guys just could restrain themselves any longer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



lol


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19491518
> 
> 
> jay can you come over to my house and set my sub up,it might help save my marriage.lol



My Uncle lives in Chicago, too bad I wasn't visiting soon. It really isn't rocket science, just trial and error. As Bob mentioned, I happened to luck into a great spot first try but with Quick measure it would have made the job a lot easier if I had needed to try more spots.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19492187
> 
> 
> lol



These guys have been MIA recently, nice to see them escape for a little while.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CerberusII* /forum/post/19492164
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I will try it out. Do you by chance have an example of what a good sub chart looks like so i have something to compare? Would bringing the LCRs to ear level or having the surrounds pointing more downward (they are flat against the wall now, and high above ear level) fix the treble issues?



See JAYRAY's sub chart posted a few posts back for an idea of just how good things can get.


Vertical pointing is important for treble. For LF/RF also adjust toe-in. Don't point them directly at mic position #1. A good rule of thumb is to swing them around only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular to the screen towards mic position #1.


If you had your mics flush to that back wall, be sure to re-Measure with them moved forward before you spend too much time on other stuff as reflections from that rear wall may be affecting your current results (applies to the sub output as well).


For Center, check its vertical pointing.


For ALL your speakers, if you have any sort of custom grill on them, check to make sure you don't have grill mounting hardware in front of the tweeters as that too will screw up treble output.


And again, Quick Measure will give you an easy way to see what any changes you might make are doing to your raw (Measured) curve from any given speaker.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem Tech Support has once again updated the download file for ARC V3.0.1 on their password protected download page.


As best I can tell, the only change is to fix the release notes to indicate that this version is no longer "beta", i.e., that it is official.


The version number for this one looks like it will remain "3.0.1" instead of "3.01" as appeared on the public download pages.


Unless you are as fanatic as I am about keeping the latest download handy, there is no reason to go get this one. And certainly no reason to re-install it over your current ARC V3.0.1.

--Bob


----------



## CerberusII




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19492211
> 
> 
> See JAYRAY's sub chart posted a few posts back for an idea of just how good things can get.
> 
> 
> Vertical pointing is important for treble. For LF/RF also adjust toe-in. Don't point them directly at mic position #1. A good rule of thumb is to swing them around only 1/3 of the way from perpendicular to the screen towards mic position #1.
> 
> 
> If you had your mics flush to that back wall, be sure to re-Measure with them moved forward before you spend too much time on other stuff as reflections from that rear wall may be affecting your current results (applies to the sub output as well).
> 
> 
> For Center, check its vertical pointing.
> 
> 
> For ALL your speakers, if you have any sort of custom grill on them, check to make sure you don't have grill mounting hardware in front of the tweeters as that too will screw up treble output.
> 
> 
> And again, Quick Measure will give you an easy way to see what any changes you might make are doing to your raw (Measured) curve from any given speaker.
> 
> --Bob



I just did a quick measure with my subs. I tried each one independently and got the same poor charts from each sub. I then decided to move one of the subs around in between the front row and screen with little change in the overall smoothness of the chart. I took the sub out of THX mode and tried to adjust the levels myself, which didn't help much either. I don't know what more I can do with my existing sub setup, but i will continue to adjust the placement of the other speakers. I think raising my LCR about 8" to ear level might help those a bit.

Is it possible that I might have a bad mic?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CerberusII* /forum/post/19492800
> 
> 
> I just did a quick measure with my subs. I tried each one independently and got the same poor charts from each sub. I then decided to move one of the subs around in between the front row and screen with little change in the overall smoothness of the chart. I took the sub out of THX mode and tried to adjust the levels myself, which didn't help much either. I don't know what more I can do with my existing sub setup, but i will continue to adjust the placement of the other speakers. I think raising my LCR about 8" to ear level might help those a bit.
> 
> Is it possible that I might have a bad mic?



Yes, but not too likely given the good results you are getting for most of the frequency range from the other speakers.


Try temporarily moving a sub into the middle of the room and doing a Quick Measure just to see if the big dips really are related to the way the sub is coupling to the room placed right at LF or RF.

--Bob


----------



## CerberusII




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19492976
> 
> 
> Yes, but not too likely given the good results you are getting for most of the frequency range from the other speakers.
> 
> 
> Try temporarily moving a sub into the middle of the room and doing a Quick Measure just to see if the big dips really are related to the way the sub is coupling to the room placed right at LF or RF.
> 
> --Bob



I did several quick measure charts. New main mic position is 20" off back wall too.

1. 1 sub in center of room

2. 1 sub center as far to front as possible up against av rack

3. 1 sub middle of room even with front row against wall

4. 2 subs with right sub in front and center

5. 2 subs with right in center of room

6. 2 subs with right sub along wall even with front row (next post)

It seems that the movement changed things up a bit, but I wouldn't know if it was better or worse.


----------



## CerberusII

Last chart for above post.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CerberusII* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I did several quick measure charts. New main mic position is 20" off back wall too.
> 
> 1. 1 sub in center of room
> 
> 2. 1 sub center as far to front as possible up against av rack
> 
> 3. 1 sub middle of room even with front row against wall
> 
> 4. 2 subs with right sub in front and center
> 
> 5. 2 subs with right in center of room
> 
> 6. 2 subs with right sub along wall even with front row (next post)
> 
> It seems that the movement changed things up a bit, but I wouldn't know if it was better or worse.



If three is the one on the far right first row then it gives the best measurement. If that is a possible candidate, try measuring with ARC and post the chart.

John

John


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19491566
> 
> 
> This is the answer just got from anthem regarding my charts.
> 
> 
> According to your graphs ARC is determining that the front speakers should be playing the upper portion of the bass signal.
> 
> 
> There is nothing wrong with the current ARC graph.
> 
> 
> For different results you may want to try moving the subwoofer to a different location.
> 
> 
> Also use an external SPL meter along with the SUB test tone in the level calibration menu of the Anthem and tune the Sub to 75dB.
> 
> 
> This is done adjusting the level on the back of the sub itself and not in the level calibration menu.
> 
> 
> Leave that level at 0.0dB
> 
> 
> Make sure your crossover on the sub it set to 150Hz or the highest possible value.
> 
> 
> This will ensure the cross over is not being applied.



If I may add, I also have 2 servo 15's that were previously positioned on the left and right side of my front wall and the resulting graph is similar to yours. I tried to check the response of the subs with my lab grade mic 2ft from the driver, true enough the response was dead on the specs provided by paradigm. when I measured at my main listening position, the in room response was very hot below 30 hz. by as much as 18dB relative to the 70 to 120 hz. I then tried to move the subs around and fiddled with the suggestion of Jayray, moving the subs along the side walls. What I found is that the 30hz and below decreased by 15dB. The actual distances from the front wall of my subs at present are 7 ft left wall and 6 ft. right wall. Now my raw sub response is +/-3dB from 20 to 120 hz. Hope this helps.


Please do not ask me to go to your place as I am haftway around the world.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well it looks like you've got a really nasty room cancellation null at 40Hz, which also affects 80Hz (twice 40 of course). Your case #3 seems to be best at decoupling from that.


That case alone, by the way, makes it pretty clear you don't have a mic problem, at least for bass. The mic is picking up the full bass range properly.


Now, you could luck out and find a pair of practical locations which avoid problems. But the room mode is there nonetheless which means you might have more problem at some seating locations than at others.


On the whole, it looks like side wall placement on either side may be your best bet. Use 1 sub at a time to see if that is working and then, when you power up both subs, play with Polarity and Phase to see if you can get them to blend better. I.e., if the curve goes bad when you power on both subs, even though each individual sub looked OK, then you need to adjust Polarity/Phase between the two subs. There's some compromise involved in this as you ALSO need to match each sub in Phase against your main speakers (typically using LF as the surrogate for all your main speakers).


The alternative is to put some bass traps into the room. Typically, for your original speaker/sub layout, these would go on the wall behind LF/RF (and thus behind your subs) in the corners behind LF/RF and at the first reflection points on the side walls where a light hitting a mirror would go from each sub to mic position #1. The idea is to minimize the most critical reflections off the walls so that you don't get as much cancellation between the main audio wavefront and the reflected wavefront, which is what produces the room null. It's happening at 40Hz due to the geometry of your room.


As I say, case #3 seems to minimize that, so I'd work off 2 sub variants of that one for now -- one on each side.

--Bob


----------



## CerberusII




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19493268
> 
> 
> If three is the one on the far right first row then it gives the best measurement. If that is a possible candidate, try measuring with ARC and post the chart.
> 
> John
> 
> John



Yes, chart 3 is with only 1 sub running placed along right wall even with front row of seating (about the middle of the room). Unfortunately this would not be a very convenient place for a sub, but as it's a dedicated room, I might have to take function over form.

thank you john for the input.


-Chris


----------



## CerberusII




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19493324
> 
> 
> Well it looks like you've got a really nasty room cancellation null at 40Hz, which also affects 80Hz (twice 40 of course). Your case #3 seems to be best at decoupling from that.
> 
> 
> That case alone, by the way, makes it pretty clear you don't have a mic problem, at least for bass. The mic is picking up the full bass range properly.
> 
> 
> Now, you could luck out and find a pair of practical locations which avoid problems. But the room mode is there nonetheless which means you might have more problem at some seating locations than at others.
> 
> 
> On the whole, it looks like side wall placement on either side may be your best bet. Use 1 sub at a time to see if that is working and then, when you power up both subs, play with Polarity and Phase to see if you can get them to blend better. I.e., if the curve goes bad when you power on both subs, even though each individual sub looked OK, then you need to adjust Polarity/Phase between the two subs. There's some compromise involved in this as you ALSO need to match each sub in Phase against your main speakers (typically using LF as the surrogate for all your main speakers).
> 
> 
> The alternative is to put some bass traps into the room. Typically these would go on the wall behind LF/RF (and thus behind your subs) in the corners behind LF/RF and at the first reflection points on the side walls where a light hitting a mirror would go from each sub to mic position #1. The idea is to minimize the most critical reflections off the walls so that you don't get as much cancellation between the main audio wavefront and the reflected wavefront, which is what produces the room null. It's happening at 40Hz due to the geometry of your room.
> 
> 
> As I say, case #3 seems to minimize that, so I'd work off 2 sub variants of that one for now -- one on each side.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I was afraid of this when I saw the charts. Unfortunately, if I placed the subs there, I would have to climb over them to get to the rear row on both sides. Might be doable on the right side as there isn't really any traffic on that side, but certainly on the left. Might have to go with some bass traps. One note is that I still had the sube firing toward the rear of the room on all measurements. Is this something to play with as well?

My main question now is how does one go about adjusting polarity and phase on the subs? Is it in the setup menu on the Anthem?


-Chris


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19493321
> 
> 
> If I may add, I also have 2 servo 15's that were previously positioned on the left and right side of my front wall and the resulting graph is similar to yours. I tried to check the response of the subs with my lab grade mic 2ft from the driver, true enough the response was dead on the specs provided by paradigm. when I measured at my main listening position, the in room response was very hot below 30 hz. by as much as 18dB relative to the 70 to 120 hz. I then tried to move the subs around and fiddled with the suggestion of Jayray, moving the subs along the side walls. What I found is that the 30hz and below decreased by 15dB. The actual distances from the front wall of my subs at present are 7 ft left wall and 6 ft. right wall. Now my raw sub response is +/-3dB from 20 to 120 hz. Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> Please do not ask me to go to your place as I am haftway around the world.



i wont ask you to come here, you really are far,im trying some different positions as i speak ,but not with much luck, im starting to get frustrated i might have to take a break, not to mention these things are a pain to move around, i wont have to go workout tonight, tomorrow i have to borrow a longer sub cable to get it up in the front area,thanks for the input i'll try your suggestion.....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CerberusII* /forum/post/19493368
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I was afraid of this when I saw the charts. Unfortunately, if I placed the subs there, I would have to climb over them to get to the rear row on both sides. Might be doable on the right side as there isn't really any traffic on that side, but certainly on the left. Might have to go with some bass traps. One note is that I still had the sube firing toward the rear of the room on all measurements. Is this something to play with as well?
> 
> My main question now is how does one go about adjusting polarity and phase on the subs? Is it in the setup menu on the Anthem?
> 
> 
> -Chris



Since you have more than one sub, you need to use controls on each sub. The sub Polarity and Phase controls in the Anthem affect both sub outputs equally, so you can't vary just one sub.


If your subs have Phase controls but not Polarity, then just use Phase. Typically you would use Phase to best match each sub individually to the Left Front speaker. If you have Polarity you would find the best Phase for each of the two Polarity choices for each sub and then pick the Polarity/Phase combo that appears to be working best for each sub (against LF).


Then you power both subs and if you still have a problem you try inverting Polarity (and making the matching Phase change you just found) on just one of the two subs.


You could also try the approach suggested in a post about a page back which is that you use the Phase controls on the two subs to best match the pair of subs (best response curve with both subs powered), and then adjust the distance setting for the pair of subs to try to improve the Phase match of that pair against LF.


------------------------------------------


But you can't ignore the practicalities. If the "good" locations for your subs aren't practical you should switch to looking at room acoustic treatments (e.g., bass traps).

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19491453
> 
> 
> This is actually my latest measurement. This was done using PBK first and then ARC using the advanced option setting sub high pass to FLAt.
> 
> John




This is my new measurement with pbk, then ARC.


Jayray, I see that your sub's target and calculation line is about about 3 DB HIGHER than the rest of your speakers. Notice that mine is exactly the same.


IF you remember, I had the rather large null between 50 and 100 HZ. My new measurement with PBK picked this up (see attached) but the new measurements and the slight movement of the sub resulted in a bit of a better picture. Notice the PBK's target and calculated is about at 75. But when arc measures the sub with PBK on board it measures it flat at 70DB.


Did I follow the right measurement steps?


Now when I ran PBK...prior, I set the sub's internal volume control to produce 75db using the D2s volume level adjustment and my radio shack meter. When I then ran PBK, the subs volume at that 75db calibrated setting was not loud enough to take measurements so I had to bump it up a few notches with the sub 2s volume control. I then completed the PBK on the sub and uploaded the results. With PBK uploaded I then re-level adjusted the Sub 2 with the D2 Level correction to 75Db and then ran ARC.


Here are the results. Interestingly, ARC set even A higher crossover for L and Right front speakers and a higher crossover for the sub 125 from 120. Even thought it is reading the sub response as very flat at 70db.


It sound pretty good. Lots of visceral impact. However, when tuned to ESPN i am picking up what sound like some back ground noise. Perahaps I am hearing the effects of the 125 crossover? Remember that my speakers all have matching steep 80hz drop off so I would expect the crossover to be higher....


I would think that ARC would want the Sub target to be even with the rest of the speakers. Why, I wonder, did it set the sub target at 70db and the rest at 67db? I think that might be the gain i am hearing.

Thoughts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The 4dB difference in level is the Room Gain hump affecting bass.


You don't see the Room Gain hump in your main speakers because their crossovers are set pretty high due to the lack of bass output from them.


By the way, I'd be tempted to try to tweak the crossover for Center down a bit as once you get the crossover above 90Hz or so you start getting part of dialog shifted to the subwoofer. Now you may not be able to get it down to 90Hz and still get a clean result for Center, but anything lower than the 115Hz you have now should help that.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> This is my new measurement with pbk, then ARC.
> 
> 
> Jayray, I see that your sub's target and calculation line is about about 3 DB HIGHER than the rest of your speakers. Notice that mine is exactly the same.
> 
> 
> IF you remember, I had the rather large null between 50 and 100 HZ. My new measurement with PBK picked this up (see attached) but the new measurements and the slight movement of the sub resulted in a bit of a better picture. Notice the PBK's target and calculated is about at 75. But when arc measures the sub with PBK on board it measures it flat at 70DB.
> 
> 
> Did I follow the right measurement steps?
> 
> 
> Now when I ran PBK...prior, I set the sub's internal volume control to produce 75db using the D2s volume level adjustment and my radio shack meter. When I then ran PBK, the subs volume at that 75db calibrated setting was not loud enough to take measurements so I had to bump it up a few notches with the sub 2s volume control. I then completed the PBK on the sub and uploaded the results. With PBK uploaded I then re-level adjusted the Sub 2 with the D2 Level correction to 75Db and then ran ARC.
> 
> 
> Here are the results. Interestingly, ARC set even A higher crossover for L and Right front speakers and a higher crossover for the sub 125 from 120. Even thought it is reading the sub response as very flat at 70db.
> 
> 
> It sound pretty good. Lots of visceral impact. However, when tuned to ESPN i am picking up what sound like some back ground noise. Perahaps I am hearing the effects of the 125 crossover? Remember that my speakers all have matching steep 80hz drop off so I would expect the crossover to be higher....
> 
> 
> I would think that ARC would want the Sub target to be even with the rest of the speakers. Why, I wonder, did it set the sub target at 70db and the rest at 67db? I think that might be the gain i am hearing.
> 
> Thoughts?



Your sub looks very good!! As Bob said the increased dB is room gain in the sub. Follow Bob's suggestions and I think you will have an awesome result. Your PBK procedure seems fine. The sub result says it all.

John


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19493458
> 
> 
> The 4dB difference in level is the Room Gain hump affecting bass.
> 
> 
> You don't see the Room Gain hump in your main speakers because their crossovers are set pretty high due to the lack of bass output from them.
> 
> 
> By the way, I'd be tempted to try to tweak the crossover for Center down a bit as once you get the crossover above 90Hz or so you start getting part of dialog shifted to the subwoofer. Now you may not be able to get it down to 90Hz and still get a clean result for Center, but anything lower than the 115Hz you have now should help that.
> 
> --Bob



please correct me if I am wrong but the peak for the room gain hump for my speakers seems to be 68 and the sub's target is 70?


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Bob for the center channel... Do I adjust the target in arc to say 100 for then center only? Meaning I also make an adjustment to the crossover in the d2?


Thanks


----------



## CerberusII




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19493410
> 
> 
> Since you have more than one sub, you need to use controls on each sub. The sub Polarity and Phase controls in the Anthem affect both sub outputs equally, so you can't vary just one sub.
> 
> 
> If your subs have Phase controls but not Polarity, then just use Phase. Typically you would use Phase to best match each sub individually to the Left Front speaker. If you have Polarity you would find the best Phase for each of the two Polarity choices for each sub and then pick the Polarity/Phase combo that appears to be working best for each sub (against LF).
> 
> 
> Then you power both subs and if you still have a problem you try inverting Polarity (and making the matching Phase change you just found) on just one of the two subs.
> 
> 
> You could also try the approach suggested in a post about a page back which is that you use the Phase controls on the two subs to best match the pair of subs (best response curve with both subs powered), and then adjust the distance setting for the pair of subs to try to improve the Phase match of that pair against LF.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> But you can't ignore the practicalities. If the "good" locations for your subs aren't practical you should switch to looking at room acoustic treatments (e.g., bass traps).
> 
> --Bob



Another bummer with my setup. My subs are controlled by a common external amp with only adjustments that affect both subs. For all purposes, I put the amp in THX mode which bypasses all level and crossover functions and allows the processor to perform those functions. I will definitely be looking into some bass traps tomorrow.

Thank you for all of your help

-Chris


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob for the center channel... Do I adjust the target in arc to say 100 for then center only? Meaning I also make an adjustment to the crossover in the d2?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I believe changes should only be made in the ARC file, not in the D2 setup menu. Then upload that file to the D2.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19493607
> 
> 
> Bob for the center channel... Do I adjust the target in arc to say 100 for then center only? Meaning I also make an adjustment to the crossover in the d2?
> 
> 
> Thanks



ALWAYS make adjustments in the ARC Targets window, re-Calculate with the new Targets, and if you like the look of the results then Upload the results.


You can experiment with different Target settings without having to re-Measure.


ETA: As you lower the "cutoff" value for Center (which is also its "crossover" value) you want to check for a good looking green Calculated curve. Now you have a dip below the current crossover so you will be limited as to how much you can lower the crossover before you start seeing residual error there. Also check even lower in frequency. You want to see good correction -- little or no residual error between Calculated and Target -- for at least an octave below the crossover frequency. I.e., if you set it to 100Hz you want to see good correction down to at least 50Hz or you have set it too low.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CerberusII* /forum/post/19493734
> 
> 
> Another bummer with my setup. My subs are controlled by a common external amp with only adjustments that affect both subs. For all purposes, I put the amp in THX mode which bypasses all level and crossover functions and allows the processor to perform those functions. I will definitely be looking into some bass traps tomorrow.
> 
> Thank you for all of your help
> 
> -Chris



OK, well check out the bass traps. The good news is that the type of problem you are having is just what bass traps are intended to handle. Getting some bass traps installed, along with some effort to make them look decent in your room, will undoubtedly result in more happiness than having to leap nimbly over the sub each time you enter or leave the room.









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19493525
> 
> 
> please correct me if I am wrong but the peak for the room gain hump for my speakers seems to be 68 and the sub's target is 70?



The basic volume level of your solution is right around 66dB (look at the flat portion of the Target curves to the right of the crossover frequencies). The sub is showing the full impact of Room Gain so 70dB. The other speakers are showing the beginnings of the Room Gain hump but that's truncated by the rolloff that happens below their rather high crossover frequencies, so you only get a peak of about 68dB before the crossover rolloff kicks in. I.e., you aren't seeing the full impact of Room Gain for the other speakers because they aren't producing bass output low enough for that to show.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19493877
> 
> 
> ALWAYS make adjustments in the ARC Targets window, re-Calculate with the new Targets, and if you like the look of the results then Upload the results.
> 
> 
> You can experiment with different Target settings without having to re-Measure.
> 
> --Bob



I did just that. New charts look good. solid green line down to 100. I uploaded and it sounds just fine.


thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

CerberusII,


You mentioned that you were not satisfied with the original woofers for LF/RF. I wonder whether some of your problem there might have been the room null we've now discovered. If so, bass traps will help THOSE as well. Meaning you might be able to put those woofers back in -- in ADDITION to your 2 standalone subs. That would allow a lower crossover for your main speakers.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Oh, I ordered up a subdude from auralex today to put under my sub2. They will make custom sizes and shapes so i am having them make me a triangular 18 x18 x18 subdude HD.


I am thinking this might help decouple the sub from my room a bit more and help with that 50-90 hz null.


I will keep you all posted. I have heard good things about that product and it is nice that they will now custom make shapes and sizes to perfectly fit under your sub... really nice for me since i have the odd hexagonal shape of the sub 2


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19493926
> 
> 
> I did just that. New charts look good. solid green line down to 100. I uploaded and it sounds just fine.
> 
> 
> thanks



Check the "ETA" I added to my post above, perhaps after you first read it. To feel good about lowering the crossover to 100Hz, you want to see good correction at least down to 50Hz.

--Bob


----------



## buckley44

when i did my arc test tonight,my spl level was high on my sub above 75 do i need to go back and put it at 75 and do another measure or did the arc first measurment take care of it,.


----------



## CerberusII




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19493887
> 
> 
> OK, well check out the bass traps. The good news is that the type of problem you are having is just what bass traps are intended to handle. Getting some bass traps installed, along with some effort to make them look decent in your room, will undoubtedly result in more happiness than having to leap nimbly over the sub each time you enter or leave the room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Any suggestion on quality bass traps? I see that there are a lot to choose from.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19493877
> 
> 
> ALWAYS make adjustments in the ARC Targets window, re-Calculate with the new Targets, and if you like the look of the results then Upload the results.
> 
> 
> You can experiment with different Target settings without having to re-Measure.
> 
> 
> ETA: As you lower the "cutoff" value for Center (which is also its "crossover" value) you want to check for a good looking green Calculated curve. Now you have a dip below the current crossover so you will be limited as to how much you can lower the crossover before you start seeing residual error there. Also check even lower in frequency. You want to see good correction -- little or no residual error between Calculated and Target -- for at least an octave below the crossover frequency. I.e., if you set it to 100Hz you want to see good correction down to at least 50Hz or you have set it too low.
> 
> --Bob



here is the chart with the center changed to 100 down from 115. what do you think.. looks pretty solid down past 50hz


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19489262
> 
> 
> Sounds amazing. Seriously.
> 
> 
> I"ll e-mail Anthem about the dip. I believe I read somewhere its a common mic misread with B&W speakers. I'll post what they tell me.



I have a similar-looking dip in my B&W XTs. A number of people here have posted the same.


----------



## Milt99

The "ARC dip" is not limited to B&W.


----------



## mookie b

About the dip, they basically said "don't worry about it."


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19494138
> 
> 
> here is the chart with the center changed to 100 down from 115. what do you think.. looks pretty solid down past 50hz



Looks fine. In fact it looks so good I'd be tempted to try sneaking it down a bit more to see if you can get away with 95 or even 90Hz. The correction will probably break down at that dip near 70Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CerberusII* /forum/post/19494135
> 
> 
> Any suggestion on quality bass traps? I see that there are a lot to choose from.



I can't help you there, but there's a forum here on room treatments that might provide useful guidance.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19494060
> 
> 
> when i did my arc test tonight,my spl level was high on my sub above 75 do i need to go back and put it at 75 and do another measure or did the arc first measurment take care of it,.



I'm not following you. Keep in mind that the sub will typically be a little higher than the basic volume level of the solution because of Room Gain. If that doesn't answer it for you, you'll need to post the charts and point out what's caught your eye.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *CerberusII* 
Any suggestion on quality bass traps? I see that there are a lot to choose from.
I posted some recommendations to another poster here at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post19489126 2 pages ago.


Hope this helps ...


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* 
Oh, I ordered up a subdude from auralex today to put under my sub2. They will make custom sizes and shapes so i am having them make me a triangular 18 x18 x18 subdude HD.


I am thinking this might help decouple the sub from my room a bit more and help with that 50-90 hz null.


I will keep you all posted. I have heard good things about that product and it is nice that they will now custom make shapes and sizes to perfectly fit under your sub... really nice for me since i have the odd hexagonal shape of the sub 2
It'd be nice to compare before and after ARC pics with the SubDude. I'm curious if the raising the sub off the floor really helps the woofer perform better. In theory its supposed to do so...


----------



## CharlieU

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mookie b* 
About the dip, they basically said "don't worry about it."
I didn't know that you had B&W's. I always had that dip with my 804, 805 and HTM3 setup on pre-ARC 3.0 runs. Since ARC 3.0 and 3.0.1, I get a gentle rolloff from 10 to 20KHz. In both cases, sticking with Anthem's 5K max correction freq recommendation sounded best to me. The charts are a guide and can be helpful in determining problem areas, but they can also lie. Get the bass right and treat your room for reflections and you will get the best sound your system is capable of.


----------



## buckley44

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
I'm not following you. Keep in mind that the sub will typically be a little higher than the basic volume level of the solution because of Room Gain. If that doesn't answer it for you, you'll need to post the charts and point out what's caught your eye.

--Bob
thanks bob i caught what i did,i had originally set it in the d2 menue for 75db and then when i was moving my sub around i had to use a rca connection which i usually have balanced but i noticed the volume was down so i set it to 75db with the volume control of the sub with quick measure.so when i did a re measure with arc i left the volume up on the sub which should'nt matter because it is set properly in the d2, so when i uploaded the new measurments and played a movie i almost BLEW THE WINDOWS OUT OF THE HOUSE because the sub was turned half way up...i hop that explains it.....


----------



## CerberusII




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19494896
> 
> 
> I posted some recommendations to another poster here at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post19489126 2 pages ago.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps ...



Thank You. I will be giving them a call.


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19494903
> 
> 
> It'd be nice to compare before and after ARC pics with the SubDude. I'm curious if the raising the sub off the floor really helps the woofer perform better. In theory its supposed to do so...



will do. I will post afters of pbk and arc results with the subdude


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CerberusII* /forum/post/19493734
> 
> 
> Another bummer with my setup. My subs are controlled by a common external amp with only adjustments that affect both subs. For all purposes, *I put the amp in THX mode* which bypasses all level and crossover functions and allows the processor to perform those functions. I will definitely be looking into some bass traps tomorrow.
> 
> Thank you for all of your help
> 
> -Chris



Bob,

Is this setting on the external amp forcing an 80kHz crossover for the subs?


Tom


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19494903
> 
> 
> It'd be nice to compare before and after ARC pics with the SubDude. I'm curious if the raising the sub off the floor really helps the woofer perform better. In theory its supposed to do so...



Well it does change the vertical standing wave calculations which could be an improvement. See the Audioholics Room Modes document which can assist with this problem.


Cheers.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/19496498
> 
> 
> Well it does change the vertical standing wave calculations which could be an improvement. See the Audioholics Room Modes document which can assist with this problem.
> 
> 
> Cheers.



Thanks TKO1 ... I've read about the theory of this but yet to see results in practice. As i told MBMF earlier, It'd be nice to compare results before and after the SubDude. Another vendor has yo place your sub on his 2 foot tall basstrap and others like Auralex(SubDude) only have a few inches off the floor. I hope theory follows practice in this case as I'm on the fence on this one...


----------



## mookie b

Switched from blue jeans lc-1 interconnects to xlr connections tonight. Noticed about a 6db increase in volume. Does that seem normal? Should I re-run ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19500206
> 
> 
> Switched from blue jeans lc-1 interconnects to xlr connections tonight. Noticed about a 6db increase in volume. Does that seem normal? Should I re-run ARC?



That's normal. XLR cables carry the signal two ways and combine them at the other end so the volume is doubled (6dB). See Section 2.2 of the Manual. Some amps have a switch to adjust for that.


Now if everything, including the sub, increased 6dB then no problem. Just lower main volume.


If you only changed connections (and thus volume) for some speakers then your speakers are now out of balance. One way to fix that is to re-run ARC.


Start over: Zero out all of Setup > Level Calibration, then set Test Level for 75dB, then set the volume knob on your sub for 75dB, then re-Measure for ARC.

--Bob


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19500281
> 
> 
> That's normal. XLR cables carry the signal two ways and combine them at the other end so the volume is doubled (6dB). See Section 2.2 of the Manual. Some amps have a switch to adjust for that.
> 
> 
> Now if everything, including the sub, increased 6dB then no problem. Just lower main volume.
> 
> 
> If you only changed connections (and thus volume) for some speakers then your speakers are now out of balance. One way to fix that is to re-run ARC.
> 
> 
> Start over: Zero out all of Setup > Level Calibration, then set Test Level for 75dB, then set the volume knob on your sub for 75dB, then re-Measure for ARC.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I changed every connection (5 speakers and sub) to XLR. I'll rerun ARC anyway sometime....just don't want to now as I'm enjoying the setup and have shows to watch!


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19500330
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I changed every connection (5 speakers and sub) to XLR. I'll rerun ARC anyway sometime....just don't want to now as I'm enjoying the setup and have shows to watch!



just learned the same thing for myself, my whole system is balanced and when i was moving my sub around in the room and i was using rca because thats all i had available for the length i needed, and when i did my quick measure my sub chart was way out of whack, then i remember that the balanced was 6db higher for balanced, i'll have to get a long balance cable to do my test results because of the rest of the system being balanced?


----------



## hoehne

Can someone describe the room gain parameter and explain what manually tweaking it can offer over the auto setting?


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19501006
> 
> 
> just learned the same thing for myself, my whole system is balanced and when i was moving my sub around in the room and i was using rca because thats all i had available for the length i needed, and when i did my quick measure my sub chart was way out of whack, then i remember that the balanced was 6db higher for balanced, i'll have to get a long balance cable to do my test results because of the rest of the system being balanced?



if you are using the real time test tone for testing placement it would not matter since you are looking at relative values. If you reposition you sub you will have to reset its levels anyway.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/19501257
> 
> 
> Can someone describe the room gain parameter and explain what manually tweaking it can offer over the auto setting?



Room Gain is a desirable room response characteristic that ARC measures and attempts to preserve even as it is busily removing other room response characteristics. Room Gain shows on the ARC charts as the shallow hump in the black, dashed Target curve for each speaker in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies. The Room Gain value is the height of that hump (in dB) over the basic volume level of the solution -- the flat part of the Target curve to the right of the crossover frequencies.


Room Gain does just what you might expect from the shape of that hump. Altering the Room Gain value changes the shape of that hump. 0dB Room Gain means no hump at all.


Movie mixers assume a modest amount of Room Gain in home theaters. Room Gain values in the range 2-4dB are typical.


There is no such consensus for music mixers, but in general people feel music mixers expect somewhat less Room Gain.


Typically you wouldn't modify the Room Gain value that ARC finds. Preserving the inherent Room Gain in your room means that natural sounds in the room and on movie tracks will sound more similar for example. Room Gain is part of what it feels like to listen in a theater room. But sometimes making small changes in Room Gain can help get a "cleaner" looking result out of ARC's calculations without significantly altering what you actually hear as regards Room Gain.


But if you think ARC has become confused by the response of your speakers and assigned an odd-ball Room Gain value then you can change it. ARC will not, itself, assign a Room Gain over 4dB. And if your speakers have a dip near the crossovers -- i.e., if they look like the room has negative Room Gain, ARC won't go below 0dB as that has no useful physical meaning.


Rooms that are very large or that have extensive acoustic treatment will have little or no inherent Room Gain, and so adding some (perhaps setting 2dB) may make things sound better.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19503344
> 
> 
> Room Gain is a desirable room response characteristic that ARC measures and attempts to preserve even as it is busily removing other room response characteristics. Room Gain shows on the ARC charts as the shallow hump in the black, dashed Target curve for each speaker in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies. The Room Gain value is the height of that hump (in dB) over the basic volume level of the solution -- the flat part of the Target curve to the right of the crossover frequencies.
> 
> 
> Room Gain does just what you might expect from the shape of that hump. Altering the Room Gain value changes the shape of that hump. 0dB Room Gain means no hump at all.
> 
> 
> Movie mixers assume a modest amount of Room Gain in home theaters. Room Gain values in the range 2-4dB are typical.
> 
> 
> There is no such consensus for music mixers, but in general people feel music mixers expect somewhat less Room Gain.
> 
> 
> Typically you wouldn't modify the Room Gain value that ARC finds. Preserving the inherent Room Gain in your room means that natural sounds in the room and on movie tracks will sound more similar for example. Room Gain is part of what it feels like to listen in a theater room. But sometimes making small changes in Room Gain can help get a "cleaner" looking result out of ARC's calculations without significantly altering what you actually hear as regards Room Gain.
> 
> 
> But if you think ARC has become confused by the response of your speakers and assigned an odd-ball Room Gain value then you can change it. ARC will not, itself, assign a Room Gain over 4dB. And if your speakers have a dip near the crossovers -- i.e., if they look like the room has negative Room Gain, ARC won't go below 0dB as that has no useful physical meaning.
> 
> 
> Rooms that are very large or that have extensive acoustic treatment will have little or no inherent Room Gain, and so adding some (perhaps setting 2dB) may make things sound better.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I think the above explantion should be in the FAQ if it isn't already. I hope you have it copied so you can paste it next time









John


----------



## Stevetd

Is anybody using a URC MX-980 wth an AVM 50v? What database are you using?


----------



## dvcdude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is anybody using a URC MX-980 wth an AVM 50v? What database are you using?



The codes have not changed. I use the AVM 30 codes and my MX-980 works flawlessly with my AVM-50v.


----------



## Farayar

Hello everyone, I recently became the owner of a D2v. I am a newbie in all this, thus please excuse me if my question is absurd. I am currently using PLIIx Movie mode to hear 5.1 sound tracks. Last night I gave a try to None (5.1) without any THX processing and I think I hear an improvement about general sound quality. Is it right to use None as my preset mode in all the sources playing 5.1 material or is it something that should not be done at all?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Farayar* /forum/post/19508599
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, I recently became the owner of a D2v. I am a newbie in all this, thus please excuse me if my question is absurd. I am currently using PLIIx Movie mode to hear 5.1 sound tracks. Last night I gave a try to None (5.1) without any THX processing and I think I hear an improvement about general sound quality. Is it right to use None as my preset mode in all the sources playing 5.1 material or is it something that should not be done at all?



I prefer THX - OFF


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Farayar* /forum/post/19508599
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, I recently became the owner of a D2v. I am a newbie in all this, thus please excuse me if my question is absurd. I am currently using PLIIx Movie mode to hear 5.1 sound tracks. Last night I gave a try to “None (5.1)” without any THX processing and I think I hear an improvement about general sound quality. Is it right to use “None” as my preset mode in all the sources playing 5.1 material or is it something that should not be done at all?



This is all a matter of personal taste. There's no "right" answer. If you have a 7.1 speaker system, PLIIx will generate surround sound for your rear speakers based on the content present in the side speaker channels of 5.1 content input. The result will vary with different sorts of 5.1 content so you might like this with some but not with others. Raising 5.1 content to 7.1 speakers is pretty straightforward so the odds are you'll like PLIIx in most cases. Raising 2.0 content to 7.1 speakers takes more magic, so you might find you like Stereo mode better, particularly for music.


NONE will play 5.1 input on just 5.1 speakers, with the rear speakers silent in a 7.1 speaker setup.


Personally, I have a 5.1 speaker setup so I don't even have the PLIIx option available when playing 5.1 content.


-------------------------


THX post processing is an additional layer of stuff. What it does for 5.1 content played into 7.1 speakers is fairly well described in the Manual. Probably the most significant change for this combo is that it attempts to "de-correlate" some of the surround sound on each side to give more of a feel that surround sound is enveloping instead of coming from specific speakers.


Personally I prefer THX post processing OFF as I think it detracts from the quality of the surround sound that ARC produces.


Keep in mind that you can specify the default audio processing in Setup > Mode Presets for each Source. Then you can alter things on the fly by using the Mode button and/or the THX button along with Up/Down arrow. The choices you'll have available when you switch things on the fly depend upon the number of speakers you have, the format of the content (e.g., 2.0 or 5.1 or 7.1), and whether or not THX post processing is on at the moment. For example the Mono Academy mode won't be available for 5.1 or 7.1 content or when THX post processing is turned ON for the Source you are listening to at the moment. And PLIIx won't be available for 5.1 content when you have 5.1 speakers because there's no work for it to do.


ETA: One confusing thing is that Setup > Mode Presets will let you set combos that aren't actually available. For example it will let you set PLIIx as the "default" audio processing for 5.1 content even though you only have 5.1 speakers present. But not to worry. The Anthem will use the correct mode in its place (NONE in this case) when you are actually listening. To see what Modes are REALLY available while listening to any given content, press Mode and cycle through the choices with Up/Down arrow -- keeping in mind that some choices will vary according to whether or not you also have THX turned on for that Source. (Press THX to see.)


One portion of the THX processing -- THX Re-equalization -- can be separately turned on/off regardless of whether or not the rest of the THX stuff is turned on for a Source. Press THX twice to see, and use up/down arrow to change. This is provided because most movie content for home theater (e.g., TV movies and commercial movie discs) have ALREADY had their treble equalization adjusted for home theater vs. commercial movie theater. So there's no need to do it again.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Farayar* /forum/post/19508599
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, I recently became the owner of a D2v. I am a newbie in all this, thus please excuse me if my question is absurd. I am currently using PLIIx Movie mode to hear 5.1 sound tracks. Last night I gave a try to None (5.1) without any THX processing and I think I hear an improvement about general sound quality. Is it right to use None as my preset mode in all the sources playing 5.1 material or is it something that should not be done at all?



I use PLXiIIx for all 5.1 in my 7.1 setup and I can say that it is like chicken soup for colds, it may not help but it won't hurt. Never had a case where I didn't want it and when playing 5.1 without PLIIX, I don't feel there is a large deficit in my surround field.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Farayar* /forum/post/19508599
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, I recently became the owner of a D2v. I am a newbie in all this, thus please excuse me if my question is absurd. I am currently using PLIIx Movie mode to hear 5.1 sound tracks. Last night I gave a try to None (5.1) without any THX processing and I think I hear an improvement about general sound quality. Is it right to use None as my preset mode in all the sources playing 5.1 material or is it something that should not be done at all?



I have been using PLIIx; but, lately, I have been also listening to THX ULTRA 2 CINEMA. I am a little torn between the 2. PLIIx definitely has more surround affect; however, THX ULTRA 2 CINEMA has more of a focus on the front sound stage. THX ULTRA 2 really keeps your attention on the screen. The center channel has a little more presence to it than PLIIx. The surrounds are present only when they are needed; but, then, it's not as present as PLIIx. So, right now, I am going between the two surround modes.


----------



## Farayar

Thank to all for your replies, definitely I will have to play more with the modes to find a keeper







.


----------



## dmusoke

Any reason why the THX flag is not embedded in the broadcast or DVD/BR streams so that pre-pros/AVR users wouldn't have to worry about manually engaging THX or not? It'd seem to be a no-brainer here to have the SetTop box or pre-pro/AVR decode this flag automatically.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Farayar* /forum/post/19509327
> 
> 
> Thank to all for your replies, definitely I will have to play more with the modes to find a keeper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Also make sure you have Dolby Volume OFF in Setup > Source Setup for every Source.


Once you've settled in on how you like to use your new Anthem normally you can go back and start playing with Dolby Volume if you like.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/19504930
> 
> 
> Is anybody using a URC MX-980 wth an AVM 50v? What database are you using?



I have the 980 and 400 with the D2, I use RCF and not CCP. If you have either file, PM me and I can show you a few programs that I have.


----------



## jpoet

I have been looking at the D2v for almost two years. I gave up on buying one at the end of last year, and just became serious again -- only to find that the MSRP has gone up over 13%!!!


Is that to allow dealers more room to "deal"? Or did Anthem's costs really go up that much?


My local dealer is having a store-wide sale next week, but they don't have a D2v in stock. I don't know what that will mean in terms of a price on the D2v. Not knowing what the dealer's price is on these, I don't know what a fair price is.



John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/19510289
> 
> 
> I have been looking at the D2v for almost two years. I gave up on buying one at the end of last year, and just became serious again -- only to find that the MSRP has gone up over 13%!!!
> 
> 
> Is that to allow dealers more room to "deal"? Or did Anthem's costs really go up that much?
> 
> 
> My local dealer is having a store-wide sale next week, but they don't have a D2v in stock. I don't know what that will mean in terms of a price on the D2v. Not knowing what the dealer's price is on these, I don't know what a fair price is.
> 
> 
> 
> John



You can always look at NONE IN STOCK as a good thing.


If he had one in stock it would cost him money to carry it.


If he has none and orders you one then ever dime he makes

he can KEEP










I theory the deal should be better


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19510305
> 
> 
> You can always look at NONE IN STOCK as a good thing.
> 
> 
> If he had one in stock it would cost him money to carry it.
> 
> 
> If he has none and orders you one then ever dime he makes
> 
> he can KEEP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I theory the deal should be better



True --- I hope.


I remember reading that Anthem themselves does not currently have any stock. I wonder if the "new" stock anthem gets will have the HDMI v1.4 upgrade?



John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/19510340
> 
> 
> I wonder if the "new" stock anthem gets will have the HDMI v1.4 upgrade?
> 
> 
> 
> John



There is no free lunch for waiting


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jpoet* 
I have been looking at the D2v for almost two years. I gave up on buying one at the end of last year, and just became serious again -- only to find that the MSRP has gone up over 13%!!!


Is that to allow dealers more room to "deal"? Or did Anthem's costs really go up that much?


My local dealer is having a store-wide sale next week, but they don't have a D2v in stock. I don't know what that will mean in terms of a price on the D2v. Not knowing what the dealer's price is on these, I don't know what a fair price is.



John
In my long time AV life, this was the best decision I've made. I can't believe how good this preamp with ARC sounds.









John


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

+1


----------



## Farayar

I have updated my D2v to the last firmware 2.10 and I also made a measure using the ARC v3.0.1 following Bob´s recommendations at the beginning of this thread. Could you please check the results and let me know what do you think?


Thanks in advance.

 

ARC V3.0.1.doc 254.5k . file


----------



## abc999

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Farayar* 
I have updated my D2v to the last firmware 2.10 and I also made a measure using the ARC v3.0.1 following Bob´s recommendations at the beginning of this thread. Could you please check the results and let me know what do you think?


Thanks in advance.
I would try switching the hpf under advance menu of the target tab to flat rather than auto and see if the subwoofer's curve below 30 hertz flattens and then recalculate and re upload. Other than that, I see no other major issues.


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *abc999* 
i would try switching the hpf under advance menu of the target tab to flat rather than auto and see if the subwoofer's curve below 30 hertz flattens and then recalculate and re upload. Other than that, i see no other major issues.
+1


----------



## ninja12

I had some time on my hands today, so, I decided to download and take some measurements with ARC v3.0.1. So, here they are. Also, all speaker trims range from -2.5 to +2.5.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19515116
> 
> 
> I had some time on my hands today, so, I decided to download and take some measurements with ARC v3.0.1. So, here they are. Also, all speaker trims range from -2.5 to +2.5.



Looks peachy. I suspect you could safely move Max EQ Frequency up to 10 or 12KHz if you want to try that additional octave up of correction in the treble.


ETA: I forget who asked, but here's another example where selecting FLAT for the low end of the sub did not produce an overshoot at 20Hz.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19515150
> 
> 
> Looks peachy. I suspect you could safely move Max EQ Frequency up to 10 or 12KHz if you want to try that additional octave up of correction in the treble.
> 
> --Bob



Now, that's real Bob Pariseau customer service. Thanks for the response Bob.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19515116
> 
> 
> I had some time on my hands today, so, I decided to download and take some measurements with ARC v3.0.1. So, here they are. Also, all speaker trims range from -2.5 to +2.5.



Even though my crossover is 60 Hz, is my sub really getting involved at 120 Hz since it has no problems out to 120 Hz? The Targets' Window shows 120 Hz for the subwoofer; but, when the ARC results are uploaded, it's showing 60 Hz for the subwoofer.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19515416
> 
> 
> Even though my crossover is 60 Hz, is my sub really getting involved at 120 Hz since it has no problems out to 120 Hz? The Targets' Window shows 120 Hz for the subwoofer; but, when the ARC results are uploaded, it's showing 60 Hz for the subwoofer.



Yes, the sub is being used all the way up by LFE.


For steered bass, some bass from the mains also goes to the sub above the crossover frequency.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19515150
> 
> 
> Looks peachy. I suspect you could safely move Max EQ Frequency up to 10 or 12KHz if you want to try that additional octave up of correction in the treble.
> 
> 
> ETA: I forget who asked, but here's another example where selecting FLAT for the low end of the sub did not produce an overshoot at 20Hz.
> 
> --Bob



I didn't see any difference, in the sub chart, between flat and auto.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't see any difference, in the sub chart, between flat and auto.



I watched LOTR FOTR, and have never heard LFE like this before and I have watched this many times. Reminds me of the theatre sound. Prior to FLAT setting I was missing this.The detail is fantastic as well set at 5K. I love ARC









John


----------



## Farayar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19511519
> 
> 
> I would try switching the hpf under advance menu of the target tab to flat rather than auto and see if the subwoofer's curve below 30 hertz flattens and then recalculate and re upload. Other than that, I see no other major issues.



I recalculated using flat and here are the new ACR results. However, I did not notice any improvement when I load them to the D2v.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Farayar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I recalculated using flat and here are the new ACR results. However, I did not notice any improvement when I load them to the D2v.



Nick did say it won't work for everyone. Your sub must be able to go below 20 Hz with good volume. Some have noticed the diff. While others won't.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Farayar* /forum/post/19516286
> 
> 
> I recalculated using flat and here are the new ACR results. However, I did not notice any improvement when I load them to the D2v.



Check to see if your sub itself has a subsonic filter cutting off its low end which you can adjust. This may be masquerading as a control for handling the case where the sub is positioned close to a wall. Try fibbing and saying it isn't. You'll need to re-Measure for ARC if you make such a change.


Your sub chart looks fine as low as the chart goes. The Target curve for low frequency in your sub has been flattened.


The other thing to consider is whether the sub is large enough for your room. A sub has to huff a lot of air to pressurize the room at these low frequencies, and so it may be spec'ed to go low, and may even test low when tried at lowish volumes, but may still not be able to pressurize the room when playing real content at volume.

--Bob


----------



## Farayar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19516352
> 
> 
> Check to see if your sub itself has a subsonic filter cutting off its low end which you can adjust. This may be masquerading as a control for handling the case where the sub is positioned close to a wall. Try fibbing and saying it isn't. You'll need to re-Measure for ARC if you make such a change.
> 
> 
> Your sub chart looks fine as low as the chart goes. The Target curve for low frequency in your sub has been flattened.
> 
> 
> The other thing to consider is whether the sub is large enough for your room. A sub has to huff a lot of air to pressurize the room at these low frequencies, and so it may be spec'ed to go low, and may even test low when tried at lowish volumes, but may still not be able to pressurize the room when playing real content at volume.
> 
> --Bob



It really doesn´t have the subsonic filter you refering to, it is not that I don´t want to do the re-Measure again.










I have been listening more material and I can tell that I can hear and feel the improvement now. I think I will let thinks like they are now with the ARC measures as flat.


Thanks all for your feedback.


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:


I've noticed quite a few graphs where ARC pegs the subs response as high as 120Hz with the main/surround speakers pegged as low as 60Hz. Doesn't this mean that bass sounds (such as male voices) will appear from the subwoofer as well as the mains where it should be? I thought the sub isn't supposed to produced human voices...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nope. The steered bass is mostly at and below the crossover frequency of each main speaker. So it doesn't matter that the sub response is good high up because the content from the main channels is not going to the sub that high up.


Meanwhile all of LFE gets reproduced.


The critical thing as regards dialog is that the crossovers of the main speakers -- Center in particular -- is not too high.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19516952
> 
> 
> Nope. The steered bass is mostly at and below the crossover frequency of each main speaker. So it doesn't matter that the sub response is good high up because the content from the main channels is not going to the sub that high up.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile all of LFE gets reproduced.
> 
> 
> The critical thing as regards dialog is that the crossovers of the main speakers -- Center in particular -- is not too high.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob ...


I just read that the fundamental frequency of an adult male voice is from 85Hz to 180Hz (adult female is 165Hz to 255Hz). So if the mains/surround cross at 60Hz, they will truly contain all male dialog. But if the sub crosses at 120Hz, doesn't it also mean male vocal frequencies of 85Hz-120Hz will be part of the mix?


I think I'm missing something here...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19517191
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob ...
> 
> 
> I just read that the fundamental frequency of an adult male voice is from 85Hz to 180Hz (adult female is 165Hz to 255Hz). So if the mains/surround cross at 60Hz, they will truly contain all male dialog. But if the sub crosses at 120Hz, doesn't it also mean male vocal frequencies of 85Hz-120Hz will be part of the mix?
> 
> 
> I think I'm missing something here...



Yes. You are missing that all the content for the main channels doesn't pass through the sub crossover. Only the portion that's steered to the sub, and that's controlled by the crossover for each main speaker. I.e., that 120Hz male voice in the Center channel is played almost entirely by the Center because the Center's crossover is an octave lower.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19517238
> 
> 
> Yes. You are missing that all the content for the main channels doesn't pass through the sub crossover. Only the portion that's steered to the sub, and that's controlled by the crossover for each main speaker. I.e., that 120Hz male voice in the Center channel is played almost entirely by the Center because the Center's crossover is an octave lower.
> 
> --Bob



OK ...so during the recording process for MCH program, all dialog is recorded into the mains and center channel and none to the sub and that's exactly what is played back into your system.


But what if the original program was recorded in stereo where much dialog and musical information occupy the crucial 85Hz - 120Hz range and now you have to apply Dolby steerring logic to get a 5.1 or 7.1 audio stream into your system. So Dolby sends frequencies from 60Hz on up to the mains/surrounds and steers the lower ones to the sub even tho its cutoff is at 120Hz, right? Please excuse my newbiness on this topic ...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19517360
> 
> 
> OK ...so during the recording process for MCH program, all dialog is recorded into the mains and center channel and none to the sub and that's exactly what is played back into your system.
> 
> 
> But what if the original program was recorded in stereo where much dialog and musical information occupy the crucial 85Hz - 120Hz range and now you have to apply Dolby steerring logic to get a 5.1 or 7.1 audio stream into your system. So Dolby sends frequencies from 60Hz on up to the mains/surrounds and steers the lower ones to the sub even tho its cutoff is at 120Hz, right? Please excuse my newbiness on this topic ...



It will help if you keep it simple in your mind. So here's the simplified version: For each speaker, say LF, there's a full frequency range of content available. When you play it with a 60Hz crossover for LF the frequencies 60Hz and above will be played by LF itself and the frequencies 60Hz and below will be played by the subwoofer.


It doesn't matter that the sub has good response up to 120Hz because, for that channel, the sub isn't being asked to play those frequencies.


When you use Dolby PLIIx to create surround channels it doesn't know anything about the crossovers for the speakers. It thinks each speaker is "full range". It doesn't know that LF, or LS or whatever has been MADE full range by having some of the audio played in the speaker and some in the sub.


The LFE channel in 5.1 or 7.1 input carries its own content which runs up to about 120 Hz. Since your sub has good response up there, you will get all of the high frequency end of LFE played properly by your sub. If your sub DIDN'T go that high the bass up there wouldn't be steered to another speaker. It would be lost. (This is not as nasty as it seems because multi-channel mixes like this also carry bass in the main speakers -- usually in Center -- AS WELL as in the sub/LFE channel.)

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

I decided to do a little experiment mainly to see what the FLAT setting will do when the frequency is down near 20 Hz. So, I went into my sub and adjusted the EQ Frequency for 20 Hz from -12 to -6. As a result of doing that, the sub chart is now showing 80 db for 20 Hz. As a result of doing that, it looks like ARC is just following the red measurement when it gets down to around 20 Hz at least for my setup that's what it's doing. In the link below, 20 Hz is around 75 db and ARC is once again dipping to follow the red measurement. I have also attached my new measurements for comparison. The only difference between the two is 1) one chart is correcting up to 5 kHz and the other is correcting up to 10 kHz 2) one sub chart is at 75 db for 20 Hz and ARC is dipping to follow the red measurement around 20 Hz and the other is at 80 db for 20 Hz and ARC is going up to follow the red measurement around 20 Hz. However, I am liking the FLAT setting as far as low end oomph. So, I guess ARC is really doing something behind the scenes that we just can't see.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post19515116


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Actually, in the case where you put in the artificial peak at 20Hz, ARC is showing correction. The green Calculated line is closer to the Target line than to the red Measured line.


So what you are seeing is residual error.


We don't know what your modification to the sub's output down there is doing below 20Hz. The EQ adjustment surely is not applying to just that frequency. So we don't know what ARC was faced with for correction at that point -- i.e., for some frequency range either side of 20Hz. Just as with any other peak or dip at any other frequency, if the speaker's response gets too far out of line ARC may not be able to correct it completely.


Another reason for the overshoot is that ARC has to boost your sub in the frequencies just above 20Hz. So there's likely some carryover from that boost as well. That is, if ARC was doing cuts all the way down to 20Hz it might very well have had a better chance of hitting the Target at 20Hz even after you added in the artificial boost.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19519234
> 
> 
> Actually, in the case where you put in the artificial peak at 20Hz, ARC is showing correction. The green Calculated line is closer to the Target line than to the red Measured line.
> 
> 
> So what you are seeing is residual error.
> 
> 
> We don't know what your modification to the sub's output down there is doing below 20Hz. The EQ adjustment surely is not applying to just that frequency. So we don't know what ARC was faced with for correction at that point -- i.e., for some frequency range either side of 20Hz. Just as with any other peak or dip at any other frequency, if the speaker's response gets too far out of line ARC may not be able to correct it completely.
> 
> 
> Another reason for the overshoot is that ARC has to boost your sub in the frequencies just above 20Hz. So there's likely some carryover from that boost as well. That is, if ARC was doing cuts all the way down to 20Hz it might very well have had a better chance of hitting the Target at 20Hz even after you added in the artificial boost.
> 
> --Bob



When I bring up my Velodyne EQ on the screen, I'm pretty flat from 15 Hz. My Velodyne chart is showing 76 db @ 15 Hz with -12 db cut at Frequency 20. Frequencies 20, 25, 32, and 40 are all cut to -12 db, and I'm pretty flat all the way out to 100 Hz. The remaining frequencies 50, 64, 80, and 100 are set to 0. The main purpose was just to see if ARC would show a flat response the way that my Velodyne EQ Chart is showing that I'm flat at 15 Hz.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19519519
> 
> 
> When I bring up my Velodyne EQ on the screen, I'm pretty flat from 15 Hz. My Velodyne chart is showing 76 db @ 15 Hz with -12 db cut at Frequency 20. Frequencies 20, 25, 32, and 40 are all cut to -12 db, and I'm pretty flat all the way out to 100 Hz. The remaining frequencies 50, 64, 80, and 100 are set to 0. The main purpose was just to see if ARC would show a flat response the way that my Velodyne EQ Chart is showing that I'm flat at 15 Hz.



Yes, but you have to look again after you raised the EQ at 20Hz from -12 to -6dB -- i.e., after you unflattened your sub's output down there. That won't just affect 20Hz.


My point being that what you are seeing is correction with residual error, not lack of correction.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19519574
> 
> 
> Yes, but you have to look again after you raised the EQ at 20Hz from -12 to -6dB -- i.e., after you unflattened your sub's output down there. That won't just affect 20Hz.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, you are right. When I changed it from -12 to -6, the chart showed frequencies 15, 20, and 25 did increase. Frequency 32 also showed a slight increase; but, on the ARC Chart, it's flat at 32 Hz. So, I just wanted to see if ARC would continue to flatten the frequencies on out to 20 Hz.


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. with my last effort Bob/Jayray you pointed out that I had a dip at 75hz (refer to attachment).


I will try and do the quick measure and see what improvements can be achieved. Can someone put up a graph that is pretty much perfect for the sub, so I know what I'm looking for. Thanks.


I was reluctant to bother with the quick measure as I have another Seaton Submersive on the way but wont be here until late Dec early Jan and want the best bass I can get for the moment. Just bothering me that 75hz dip and I remember Jayray mentioning that he had something similar and it's worth trying to fix and the improvements are worth it.


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19517191
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob ...
> 
> 
> I just read that the fundamental frequency of an adult male voice is from 85Hz to 180Hz (adult female is 165Hz to 255Hz). So if the mains/surround cross at 60Hz, they will truly contain all male dialog. But if the sub crosses at 120Hz, doesn't it also mean male vocal frequencies of 85Hz-120Hz will be part of the mix?
> 
> 
> I think I'm missing something here...



Hi,


although not related to the specific issue you are working with Bob on,

here's a good interactive frequency chart which I use to better understand why some speakers sound totally different than others, with or without equalisation.


Hope this helps. Cheers.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19520112
> 
> 
> Hi guys. with my last effort Bob/Jayray you pointed out that I had a dip at 75hz (refer to attachment).
> 
> 
> I will try and do the quick measure and see what improvements can be achieved. Can someone put up a graph that is pretty much perfect for the sub, so I know what I'm looking for. Thanks.
> 
> 
> I was reluctant to bother with the quick measure as I have another Seaton Submersive on the way but wont be here until late Dec early Jan and want the best bass I can get for the moment. Just bothering me that 75hz dip and I remember Jayray mentioning that he had something similar and it's worth trying to fix and the improvements are worth it.



Mine is not perfect, and it's not as good as jayray; but, it's not bad. Anyway, take a look and decide if it's something you would like to shoot for.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...8&d=1290198787


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19520112
> 
> 
> Hi guys. with my last effort Bob/Jayray you pointed out that I had a dip at 75hz (refer to attachment).
> 
> 
> I will try and do the quick measure and see what improvements can be achieved. Can someone put up a graph that is pretty much perfect for the sub, so I know what I'm looking for. Thanks.
> 
> 
> I was reluctant to bother with the quick measure as I have another Seaton Submersive on the way but wont be here until late Dec early Jan and want the best bass I can get for the moment. Just bothering me that 75hz dip and I remember Jayray mentioning that he had something similar and it's worth trying to fix and the improvements are worth it.



Here is my chart. Ninja12 has also a very good chart. Note the Red measured curve. It is fairly flat from 100 to 20 Hz. Now the target is set by how good the measurement is. So now the calculated is very close to excellent.

John


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19518640
> 
> 
> As a result of doing that, it looks like ARC is just following the red measurement when it gets down to around 20 Hz at least for my setup that's what it's doing.



Covered Here 



> Quote:
> Ok, I've worked it out.......the explanation for what is going on is quite simple really, I noticed it before but assumed it was ignored........it's not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the advanced settings of ARC 3.0 when you set the High Pass Filter to 'Flat' hence disabling it, the 'Min Sub EQ Freq' option becomes active........and by active I mean active, ie if you set it to 50Hz ARC will do nothing from there down. The lowest option for this is 20Hz and, as far as I can tell, you cannot disable it in Flat mode or reduce it to take advantage of ARC's latest sub 20Hz filtering.
> 
> 
> So basically in Flat mode ARC will only apply filters down to 20Hz.
> 
> If your pre filter measurement deviates much from the target below 30Hz your post filter line will leave the target and begin following the pre filter measurement.
> 
> 
> Only workaround I can suggest is to get your measured pre-ARC response around 20-30Hz close to your target level at that point prior to calculating the filters. This way there will be a smooth transition from ARC's adjustments to the natural response of your sub in your room. What you don't want is a resulting boost in that region and below for the reasions mentioned earlier.
> 
> 
> Would be nice for Anthem to include an option to disable that 'Min Sub EQ Freq' setting or to include the lowest frequency ARC will correct as an option(since v3.0 supposedly corrects below 20Hz)
> 
> 
> Cheers


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19520556
> 
> 
> Covered Here



Do you know if ARC will apply filters below 20 Hz if it's set to Auto?


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks guys. Not sure if I will get time today to do this but will see later on.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19520581
> 
> 
> Do you know if ARC will apply filters below 20 Hz if it's set to Auto?



As far as I know in v3.0 they extended the lowest filtering down to 'below 20Hz'. It seems the only mode this could work in is 'Auto' since we've found the 'lowest fq filter' possible in the other modes is 20Hz.


I haven't actually tested to see how low ARC filters in Auto yet.


Cheers


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19520651
> 
> 
> As far as I know in v3.0 they extended the lowest filtering down to 'below 20Hz'. It seems the only mode this could work in is 'Auto' since we've found the 'lowest fq filter' possible in the other modes is 20Hz.
> 
> 
> I haven't actually tested to see how low ARC filters in Auto yet.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Cool. Thanks for your responses.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/19520150
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> although not related to the specific issue you are working with Bob on,
> 
> here's a good interactive frequency chart which I use to better understand why some speakers sound totally different than others, with or without equalisation.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps. Cheers.



Cool charts ...Thanks TKO1!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19517639
> 
> 
> It will help if you keep it simple in your mind. So here's the simplified version: For each speaker, say LF, there's a full frequency range of content available. When you play it with a 60Hz crossover for LF the frequencies 60Hz and above will be played by LF itself and the frequencies 60Hz and below will be played by the subwoofer.
> 
> 
> It doesn't matter that the sub has good response up to 120Hz because, for that channel, the sub isn't being asked to play those frequencies.
> 
> 
> When you use Dolby PLIIx to create surround channels it doesn't know anything about the crossovers for the speakers. It thinks each speaker is "full range". It doesn't know that LF, or LS or whatever has been MADE full range by having some of the audio played in the speaker and some in the sub.
> 
> 
> The LFE channel in 5.1 or 7.1 input carries its own content which runs up to about 120 Hz. Since your sub has good response up there, you will get all of the high frequency end of LFE played properly by your sub. If your sub DIDN'T go that high the bass up there wouldn't be steered to another speaker. It would be lost. (This is not as nasty as it seems because multi-channel mixes like this also carry bass in the main speakers -- usually in Center -- AS WELL as in the sub/LFE channel.)
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob for your patience and understanding


----------



## TREVLAN

Hi, I am searching around for an answer.

thought i'd post here also.


Woke up at 2:30am , heard noise in the living room, "static"

so I went to check it out, it was the AVM50, I have not updated this thing in 6months or so.

Not sure whats on it currently can post later if needed...lol


but back on track, the FM tuner was on so I shut it off... about 2 min later its back on, so I change it to TV shut it down, about 2-3 min later again back on, shut it down, 2-3 min back on, happened 4-6 times I said eff this I'm tired unplugged it and went to bed.

well ok i stopped on here first and searched the web.


----------



## TREVLAN

found the posts by user usxplong, so I will try that, but strange now two of us having this issue??

usxplong, did you ever find out the resolve to it?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/19522039
> 
> 
> Hi, I am searching around for an answer.
> 
> thought i'd post here also.
> 
> 
> Woke up at 2:30am , heard noise in the living room, "static"
> 
> so I went to check it out, it was the AVM50, I have not updated this thing in 6months or so.
> 
> Not sure whats on it currently can post later if needed...lol
> 
> 
> but back on track, the FM tuner was on so I shut it off... about 2 min later its back on, so I change it to TV shut it down, about 2-3 min later again back on, shut it down, 2-3 min back on, happened 4-6 times I said eff this I'm tired unplugged it and went to bed.
> 
> well ok i stopped on here first and searched the web.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *muad'dib* /forum/post/16494259
> 
> 
> I just watched this new blu-ray on the D2V with 2.04 firmware..
> 
> 
> Blu-ray player is the sony 550..
> 
> 
> When watching this movie, the sound was send via bitstream to D2V, as DTS HD MA 5.1 (even though the box says it should be 6.1).



Same problem here with my new AVM-50v just arrived off the production line. Was this ever solved or explained?


How do I get them to negotiate for LPCM instead of Bitstream? It plays as 5.1 but when I pause the movie the Anthem shows 7.1!


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Hey bob, I just ordered in the AIX blu Ray Audio Calibration Disc HD Music Sampler specifically to help check the phase of the sub with my main speakers. I do not see a test chapter for this. They have a phase chapter but it does not inlcude a comparison with the sub. What are you using?


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

when i play a 96khz source (in this case AIX cal disk) from my PS3 (PS3 set to output up to 96khz) via PCM HDMI to the D2 (1.45F) the D2 does not recognize the input as 96Khz when i check status via the remote. The PS3 shows that it is outputting 96. Interestingly, when I bring up the video status screen on the D2 it shows an input of 96Khz in that menu. However, when i check that status of the input via multiple hits of the select button on the D2 remote it brings up 48Khz. Is this just a bug? Which to believe?


-Bob


----------



## mani

Hi Everyone


Is it possible to completely bypass video processing in AVM50v if I am using external video processor?


Thanks

mani


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mani* 
Hi Everyone


Is it possible to completely bypass video processing in AVM50v if I am using external video processor?


Thanks

mani
SELL your Video Processor










AM50v Video Processor is just as good.


----------



## usxplong

Quote:

Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* 
found the posts by user usxplong, so I will try that, but strange now two of us having this issue??

usxplong, did you ever find out the resolve to it?
I talked to Anthem. They sent me a new face plate. It is very easy to install. Only a few screws from inside and the whole face assembly comes off. But I took it to a dealer and installed it in a few mins and everything works perfect so far.


----------



## TREVLAN

my whole screen is PINK... but my connections are HDMI.

so after the whole, turning on by itse;f unit. I tried reinstalling 1.33 on my AVM50 and redoing the ARC new version. now my TV is one full color... PINK.


Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
Since you are using a DVI input on your display, in the Anthem's Setup / Video Output menu, try changing the output Data Format to RGB instead of Auto.


DVI devices generally want RGB video format. Usually this is handled automatically during the handshake that establishes the connection, but if that is failing for some reason the connection might be set up as YCbCr by mistake. You then get the "shocking pink" screen because the"Y" output signal (gray scale luminance) is misinterpreted in the display as the Red color signal.


Explicitly selecting RGB output in the Anthem avoids any such mischance.

--Bob


----------



## TREVLAN

Quote:

Originally Posted by *usxplong* 
I talked to Anthem. They sent me a new face plate. It is very easy to install. Only a few screws from inside and the whole face assembly comes off. But I took it to a dealer and installed it in a few mins and everything works perfect so far.
thanks for that info, I did the reload as BOB suggested to you, but now I'm having another issue.. PINK screen of death...lol


----------



## mani

Quote:

Originally Posted by *drhankz* 
SELL your Video Processor










AM50v Video Processor is just as good.
I doubt that. In any case I cant take video processor out of equation as it is SIm2 LUmis HOST . You need HOST to transmit optical video signal to projector. So I would rather not have 2 processors altering the signal.


----------



## buckley44

can someone please look at my new charts i did some changes after i've been reading on here , let me know what i need to do to get some better results. thank u

 

new doc 11-19-10.doc 415k . file


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *TREVLAN*
thanks for that info, I did the reload as BOB suggested to you, but now I'm having another issue.. PINK screen of death...lol
You might want to try a flash erase and then do another firmware upload.

John


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *buckley44* 
can someone please look at my new charts i did some changes after i've been reading on here , let me know what i need to do to get some better results. thank u
Have you altered the room gains? If not, your speakers look good. The sub has a dip from 50 - 80 Hz of around 5 dB, that could be eliminated by moving your sub. If the red measurement line moves up higher, this would result in a better target and ultimately a better green correction. curve. See my post #31263, on this page, showing my sub chart. Notice the red curve is fairly flat from 100 -20 Hz. so the correction is very smooth. Good measurement results in great correction.

John


----------



## TREVLAN

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jayray* 
You might want to try a flash erase and then do another firmware upload.

John
i did try that and it worked. thx Jayray, how have you been? talked to Neil lately?


I'm going to upgrade to the v , AVM50v just waiting on a price , plus two more speakers and the MCA2. lol just a few bucks.


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *TREVLAN*
i did try that and it worked. thx Jayray, how have you been? talked to Neil lately?


I'm going to upgrade to the v , AVM50v just waiting on a price , plus two more speakers and the MCA2. lol just a few bucks.
I'm good as is Neil. Haven't been in since I picked up my MRX. The AVM50v is a great unit, you'll love it.

John


----------



## Shrike645

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mani* 
Hi Everyone


Is it possible to completely bypass video processing in AVM50v if I am using external video processor?


Thanks

mani
No You can't bypass the video.


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19524309
> 
> 
> Have you altered the room gains? If not, your speakers look good. The sub has a dip from 50 - 80 Hz of around 5 dB, that could be eliminated by moving your sub. If the red measurement line moves up higher, this would result in a better target and ultimately a better green correction. curve. See my post #31263, on this page, showing my sub chart. Notice the red curve is fairly flat from 100 -20 Hz. so the correction is very smooth. Good measurement results in great correction.
> 
> John



no, that is what arc came up with for the gain,is there anything i can do in arc to try to help get the dip out of the sub, i've been trying to move the sub around,but with no luck yet i need to get a longer cable.otherwise you think everything looks good? the only thing that gets it up to the red line is when i lower the frequency on the sub in arc to below 60 but these were the measurments that arc came up with, and i must say it still sounds really good....


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> no, that is what arc came up with for the gain,is there anything i can do in arc to try to help get the dip out of the sub, i've been trying to move the sub around,but with no luck yet i need to get a longer cable.otherwise you think everything looks good? the only thing that gets it up to the red line is when i lower the frequency on the sub in arc to below 60 but these were the measurments that arc came up with, and i must say it still sounds really good....



Don't change the cutoff freq. in ARC. Try again with the longer cable. And make sure the crossover freq. is turned up as far as it goes ie. to bypass or 180 Hz and then measure. Your other speakers look very good. While it sounds good to you now, if you can fix the dip in the sub it will give you a little more impact. My sub cutoff is 120.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19523363
> 
> 
> Hey bob, I just ordered in the AIX blu Ray Audio Calibration Disc HD Music Sampler specifically to help check the phase of the sub with my main speakers. I do not see a test chapter for this. They have a phase chapter but it does not inlcude a comparison with the sub. What are you using?



Use System Calibration > Subwoofer Crossover Test


This will sweep a test tone back and forth across the crossover frequencies.


Use it like this:


IMPORTANT NOTE: Be sure your speaker distance settings are correct before you adjust Phase for the sub, as phase is also a function of relative distance.


1) Do an ARC setup. This will establish the crossover frequencies, volume balance the speakers, and eliminate any response defects from the speakers that will interfere with your ability to hear phase related changes.


2) Run the Subwoofer Crossover Test and listen to see if you have uniform volume all across the range. Since ARC has already balanced things and removed defects, any dip you hear will be due to phase cancellation between the Sub and LF. Since different setups will have different crossover frequencies, that dip may occur higher or lower in the sweep range in your setup.


3) Adjust sub phase to eliminate any such dip and get as close as you can get to uniform volume across the frequency range of this test.


Note that phase settings near the correct setting will sound very similar. Add to that some typical listener bias and you'll see that you may undershoot or overshoot the correct phase setting. To counter that, find phase two ways: First sneaking up from below and second dropping down from above. If you come up with two different answers then split the difference between them and that will be your correct phase setting.


4) If you have only one sub, you are now done. Your prior ARC solution still applies and will now just work better. If you have more than one sub then you must re-Measure for ARC after changing phase for any sub as phase setting changes will change what ARC hears from the combo of subs playing together.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN* /forum/post/19522039
> 
> 
> Hi, I am searching around for an answer.
> 
> thought i'd post here also.
> 
> 
> Woke up at 2:30am , heard noise in the living room, "static"
> 
> so I went to check it out, it was the AVM50, I have not updated this thing in 6months or so.
> 
> Not sure whats on it currently can post later if needed...lol
> 
> 
> but back on track, the FM tuner was on so I shut it off... about 2 min later its back on, so I change it to TV shut it down, about 2-3 min later again back on, shut it down, 2-3 min back on, happened 4-6 times I said eff this I'm tired unplugged it and went to bed.
> 
> well ok i stopped on here first and searched the web.



Give Anthem tech support a call. It sounds like something has failed in the front panel circuit that senses button presses for turning on the unit.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19525366
> 
> 
> Use System Calibration > Subwoofer Crossover Test
> 
> 
> This will sweep a test tone back and forth across the crossover frequencies.
> 
> 
> Use it like this:
> 
> 
> IMPORTANT NOTE: Be sure your speaker distance settings are correct before you adjust Phase for the sub, as phase is also a function of relative distance.
> 
> 
> 1) Do an ARC setup. This will establish the crossover frequencies, volume balance the speakers, and eliminate any response defects from the speakers that will interfere with your ability to hear phase related changes.
> 
> 
> 2) Run the Subwoofer Crossover Test and listen to see if you have uniform volume all across the range. Since ARC has already balanced things and removed defects, any dip you hear will be due to phase cancellation between the Sub and LF. Since different setups will have different crossover frequencies, that dip may occur higher or lower in the sweep range in your setup.
> 
> 
> 3) Adjust sub phase to eliminate any such dip and get as close as you can get to uniform volume across the frequency range of this test.
> 
> 
> Note that phase settings near the correct setting will sound very similar. Add to that some typical listener bias and you'll see that you may undershoot or overshoot the correct phase setting. To counter that, find phase two ways: First sneaking up from below and second dropping down from above. If you come up with two different answers then split the difference between them and that will be your correct phase setting.
> 
> 
> 4) If you have only one sub, you are now done. Your prior ARC solution still applies and will now just work better. If you have more than one sub then you must re-Measure for ARC after changing phase for any sub as phase setting changes will change what ARC hears from the combo of subs playing together.
> 
> --Bob



can i use the radioshack spl meter? if I set the d2 to a fixed volume, then run the crossover sweep, if all is well with the rs meter stay at one spl? Or will the spl meter fluctuate naturally with the sweep. Just wondering if I can use that as a tool.


Thanks for the your time!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/19522982
> 
> 
> Same problem here with my new AVM-50v just arrived off the production line. Was this ever solved or explained?
> 
> 
> How do I get them to negotiate for LPCM instead of Bitstream? It plays as 5.1 but when I pause the movie the Anthem shows 7.1!



DTS-HD MA is weird. They offer an option for producers to make "kinda fake" 7.1 tracks which are really 5.1 tracks that have an EXTRA SET of side speakers. I.e., they are putting out the side surround info on 4 speakers instead of 2 speakers. There isn't really any rear surround info.


Since many commercial movie tracks are 5.1 you can see how this would appeal to producers who want to sell the disc as being 7.1 without actually going through the work of inventing new rear channels.


This is called "alternate speaker presentation" and when the AVM-50v is asked to decode such a bitstream it reports it as 5.1 content. Then, if you have something like PLIIx turned on, it will generate sound for the rear speakers from that which is more like real "rear" sound than what is actually in the content to begin with.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19525396
> 
> 
> can i use the radioshack spl meter? if I set the d2 to a fixed volume, then run the crossover sweep, if all is well with the rs meter stay at one spl? Or will the spl meter fluctuate naturally with the sweep. Just wondering if I can use that as a tool.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the your time!



I think you'll find your ear more accurate in this case. The SPL meter won't respond fast enough and as you get to the lower frequencies the SPL meter will also report less than the actual sound output. There are tables you can find to correct for that, but it is more of a nuisance than it is worth.


Phase is fairly forgiving. You don't need to be precisely right. With this AIX test track I think you'll find "by ear" works.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19523379
> 
> 
> when i play a 96khz source (in this case AIX cal disk) from my PS3 (PS3 set to output up to 96khz) via PCM HDMI to the D2 (1.45F) the D2 does not recognize the input as 96Khz when i check status via the remote. The PS3 shows that it is outputting 96. Interestingly, when I bring up the video status screen on the D2 it shows an input of 96Khz in that menu. However, when i check that status of the input via multiple hits of the select button on the D2 remote it brings up 48Khz. Is this just a bug? Which to believe?
> 
> 
> -Bob



The firmware in the D2 sometimes doesn't update the status info Select displays at quite the right time. Pause the audio and start it again, or switch to a different source and back, and your Select info display will likely now be correct. The Video Source Adjust > Info panel gets updated a different way so it is usually correct.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mani* /forum/post/19523780
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone
> 
> 
> Is it possible to completely bypass video processing in AVM50v if I am using external video processor?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> mani



Not if you are using HDMI output from the AVM 50v.


That said, if you use the default settings in the AVM 50v, and if your input resolution and frame rate matches the output resolution and frame rate, the video output from the AVM 50v will be essentially indistinguishable from the input. So you will be good to go.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19525416
> 
> 
> DTS-HD MA is weird. They offer an option for producers to make "kinda fake" 7.1 tracks which are really 5.1 tracks that have an EXTRA SET of side speakers. I.e., they are putting out the side surround info on 4 speakers instead of 2 speakers. There isn't really any rear surround info.
> 
> 
> Since many commercial movie tracks are 5.1 you can see how this would appeal to producers who want to sell the disc as being 7.1 without actually going through the work of inventing new rear channels.
> 
> 
> This is called "alternate speaker presentation" and when the AVM-50v is asked to decode such a bitstream it reports it as 5.1 content. Then, if you have something like PLIIx turned on, it will generate sound for the rear speakers from that which is more like real "rear" sound than what is actually in the content to begin with.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob. So everyone else with an Anthem is getting this (5.1) result and nobody is getting 6.1 on T2: Skynet Edition?


Also I could understand this "fake 7.1" business for older or cheaper titles like The Running Man, but for T2? I thought that soundtrack was always "true 6.1" (at least since the Ultimate Edition DVD came out). In fact it comes with a DD 5.1 EX track too.


Do you know of any other "6.1" BluRay titles I could try? I have several 7.1 titles, but I just want to make sure there isn't a bug in the Anthem software when it comes to "6.1".


Regards,

Stefan


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19525416
> 
> 
> DTS-HD MA is weird. They offer an option for producers to make "kinda fake" 7.1 tracks which are really 5.1 tracks that have an EXTRA SET of side speakers. I.e., they are putting out the side surround info on 4 speakers instead of 2 speakers. There isn't really any rear surround info.
> 
> 
> Since many commercial movie tracks are 5.1 you can see how this would appeal to producers who want to sell the disc as being 7.1 without actually going through the work of inventing new rear channels.



Bob, I think you are "upmixing" more than is really there in DTS. Their "remapping" gizmo does indeed play a pair of signals from 4 speakers, but it never results in more outputs than were in the source.


The problem with T2 was the misuse of the term "HDMA 6.1" format instead of calling it something more conventional like 5.1 ES or EX. It's a regular EX mix .


----------



## AVfile

Roger, thanks for the link - interesting read.

There must be another problem though - why is the player picking up the ES flag when playing the bitstream and not the receiver?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/19526540
> 
> 
> Roger, thanks for the link - interesting read.
> 
> There must be another problem though - why is the player picking up the ES flag when playing the bitstream and not the receiver?



How can you tell the player is responding to the flag?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19526390
> 
> 
> Bob, I think you are "upmixing" more than is really there in DTS. Their "remapping" gizmo does indeed play a pair of signals from 4 speakers, but it never results in more outputs than were in the source.



Not "more". "Less". See "Hairspray", Blu-Ray for example. Presented as 7.1 but actually uses the alternate speaker presentation so the two "rear" channels are actually extra "side" channels. The D2v decodes it as 5.1.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Hi Bob,


I used ARC v3.01 for first time last night and these are the results. The highs certainly sounded less shrill than the v2.4.12 I was listening with.


Despite setting the noise level at 75dB on the meter, however, I could only achieve a 66dB level on the charts.


I wonder if any of you noticed that with this version, Anthem revised the scale to read 1dB per line compared to 0.5dB previously. This results in graphs that look smoother than otherwise. Should give a number of users a mistakenly wider grin.










Ben


----------



## MACCA350

Why is it that everyones targets show a 'Reference Level Offset' of -1?


Also, can the different subwoofer level adjustments for Movie and Music bass management be used in ARC?

Ie say you want no room gain in Music mode and room gain in Movie but you're using Flat mode and only using ARC's filters down to 50Hz. There is no way to make it work in this situation unless you can specify different sub levels for both modes in ARC.

Do the different sub level adjustments have an effect on ARC's measurements? I'd assume not as ARC resets all levels when you upload so surely it would ignore what has already been set.


I'll test it out and see if it can be done but just thought I'd ask if it's already known


Cheers


----------



## buckley44

after running arc,and going in the menu on the d2 i notice the crossover frequency's are not the same on the d2 as opposed to the arc numbers.Does arc override the numbers in the d2?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19526962
> 
> 
> after running arc,and going in the menu on the d2 i notice the crossover frequency's are not the same on the d2 as opposed to the arc numbers.Does arc override the numbers in the d2?



Make sure you are not comparing the "cutoff" frequency in the targets window of ARC with the "crossover" values in the setup screen.


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19527092
> 
> 
> Make sure you are not comparing the "cutoff" frequency in the targets window of ARC with the "crossover" values in the setup screen.



how do i check to see if arc loaded on the d2 with the proper targets installed?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> how do i check to see if arc loaded on the d2 with the proper targets installed?



You can't see the cutoffs or the solution, in the D2 menu so don't worry about it, I'm sure they were uploaded.

John


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19526962
> 
> 
> after running arc,and going in the menu on the d2 i notice the crossover frequency's are not the same on the d2 as opposed to the arc numbers.Does arc override the numbers in the d2?



Buckley,


Read the notes in the center of the Target window. It explains why.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19526625
> 
> 
> How can you tell the player is responding to the flag?



Player status display shows "DTS-HD Master Audio ES 6.1 Matrix 3/3.1 48 kHz"


Anthem says DTS-HD Master Audio 5.1 (it negotiates for the bitstream, not PCM).


I can't turn off bitstreaming in this player to try PCM. I may buy the cheap new Sony player because it lets you force PCM.


----------



## Roger Dressler

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
Not "more". "Less". See "Hairspray", Blu-Ray for example. Presented as 7.1 but actually uses the alternate speaker presentation so the two "rear" channels are actually extra "side" channels. The D2v decodes it as 5.1.
If the source is 7.1, it would not matter if the alternate side locations were used or not, the output is supposed to remain 7.1 signals. All that is supposed to happen is some of those side signals will be mixed to either the fronts or the backs (depending on where the room's side speakers live). Those signals are never totally downmixed unless the playback system has only 5.1 speakers.


That's the "remapping" theory, anyway. Are you saying the D2v does something different? I heard there were some AVRs that simply didn't play well when "alternate" locations wee first used, but the code was fixed.


BTW I am working off of early DTS documentation. Maybe they changed it??


----------



## Roger Dressler

Quote:

Originally Posted by *AVfile* 
Player status display shows "DTS-HD Master Audio ES 6.1 Matrix 3/3.1 48 kHz"


Anthem says DTS-HD Master Audio 5.1 (it negotiates for the bitstream, not PCM).


I can't turn off bitstreaming in this player to try PCM. I may buy the cheap new Sony player because it lets you force PCM.
Ok, at least the player tells the tale--it is Matrixed ES. Since the D2v might be misbehaving on the remapping operation (pending matter in my previous post), maybe it is also not fully cognizant of the ES flags when associated with HDMA, either. But really it is of no consequence. The flag means nothing--especially if your system is set to always expand 5.1 sources to 7.1. And no doubt you'd like to choose which method is applied, since others like PLIIx work better than Neo:6 in that regard.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19526962
> 
> 
> after running arc,and going in the menu on the d2 i notice the crossover frequency's are not the same on the d2 as opposed to the arc numbers.Does arc override the numbers in the d2?



With ARC V3.0.1, after the Upload *ALL* of the "crossover" values shown in Setup > Speaker Configuration for both Movie and Music should match the corresponding "cutoff" values shown in the ARC Targets window *EXCEPT* for the subwoofer.


The subwoofer may have a different "cutoff" and "crossover" value. Cutoff and crossover are two different things and for the subwoofer ARC actually uses them separately, which allows it to produce a better solution. But for the other speakers, cutoff and crossover are set to match by ARC.


If you are seeing a mismatch between cutoff and crossover values for any speakers other than the sub, then something is wrong. The most likely thing wrong is that you did something that altered the values after ARC Uploaded them into the Setup menu such as reloading Saved User or Installer Settings without first saving those newly Uploaded values into those settings.


If you are not sure what happened, simply open up your latest set of ARC results once again in ARC's "Manual" mode and redo the Upload. No need to re-Measure.


ARC verifies each Upload so it is unlikely the Upload itself screwed up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19526910
> 
> 
> Why is it that everyones targets show a 'Reference Level Offset' of -1?
> 
> 
> Also, can the different subwoofer level adjustments for Movie and Music bass management be used in ARC?
> 
> Ie say you want no room gain in Music mode and room gain in Movie but you're using Flat mode and only using ARC's filters down to 50Hz. There is no way to make it work in this situation unless you can specify different sub levels for both modes in ARC.
> 
> Do the different sub level adjustments have an effect on ARC's measurements? I'd assume not as ARC resets all levels when you upload so surely it would ignore what has already been set.
> 
> 
> I'll test it out and see if it can be done but just thought I'd ask if it's already known
> 
> 
> Cheers



There's only one set of volume trims (and distance settings for that matter) that are shared by Movie and Music.


We've not yet gotten a good handle on what that new Reference Level value means.

--Bob


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19517238
> 
> 
> Yes. You are missing that all the content for the main channels doesn't pass through the sub crossover. Only the portion that's steered to the sub, and that's controlled by the crossover for each main speaker. I.e., that 120Hz male voice in the Center channel is played almost entirely by the Center because the Center's crossover is an octave lower.
> 
> --Bob




See the previous discussion about this in the link below.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post19337264 


I have found that if I turn off the amp for my front speakers, I can hear male voices through the subwoofer since ARC does have it playing up to 120hz. The Anthem is either not applying a low pass filter as noted in the speaker setup page or it is a very low order filter. Based on my setup, the lpf is set at the cutoff frequency given in the ARC Targets window (120hz) and not what shows up in the D2 speaker setup page (60hz).


In my setup this is not really a problem. It sounds great and my speakers could use a little help in the 60-100hz area at high volume.


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19525366
> 
> 
> Use System Calibration > Subwoofer Crossover Test
> 
> 
> This will sweep a test tone back and forth across the crossover frequencies.
> 
> 
> Use it like this:
> 
> 
> IMPORTANT NOTE: Be sure your speaker distance settings are correct before you adjust Phase for the sub, as phase is also a function of relative distance.
> 
> 
> 1) Do an ARC setup. This will establish the crossover frequencies, volume balance the speakers, and eliminate any response defects from the speakers that will interfere with your ability to hear phase related changes.
> 
> 
> 2) Run the Subwoofer Crossover Test and listen to see if you have uniform volume all across the range. Since ARC has already balanced things and removed defects, any dip you hear will be due to phase cancellation between the Sub and LF. Since different setups will have different crossover frequencies, that dip may occur higher or lower in the sweep range in your setup.
> 
> 
> 3) Adjust sub phase to eliminate any such dip and get as close as you can get to uniform volume across the frequency range of this test.
> 
> 
> Note that phase settings near the correct setting will sound very similar. Add to that some typical listener bias and you'll see that you may undershoot or overshoot the correct phase setting. To counter that, find phase two ways: First sneaking up from below and second dropping down from above. If you come up with two different answers then split the difference between them and that will be your correct phase setting.
> 
> 
> 4) If you have only one sub, you are now done. Your prior ARC solution still applies and will now just work better. If you have more than one sub then you must re-Measure for ARC after changing phase for any sub as phase setting changes will change what ARC hears from the combo of subs playing together.
> 
> --Bob



This might be worth a read when setting phase...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post19482795 


I didn't get much of a response when I posted this, but I think it is a better way to set up phase and get proper integration between sub and speakers.


----------



## jpoet

Anyone have current ETA information for a newly ordered D2v?


My "local" Anthem dealer _finally_ called me back. They said it would take a day or so to make the order, and they don't have any delivery ETA information. They want a deposit of 50%, which is acceptable if is not going to be months before I get it.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19530581
> 
> 
> See the previous discussion about this in the link below.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post19337264
> 
> 
> I have found that if I turn off the amp for my front speakers, I can hear male voices through the subwoofer since ARC does have it playing up to 120hz. The Anthem is either not applying a low pass filter as noted in the speaker setup page or it is a very low order filter. Based on my setup, the lpf is set at the cutoff frequency given in the ARC Targets window (120hz) and not what shows up in the D2 speaker setup page (60hz).
> 
> 
> In my setup this is not really a problem. It sounds great and my speakers could use a little help in the 60-100hz area at high volume.



Are you testing this with source content that includes LFE? It is possible what you are hearing is in the LFE portion of the mix.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19530593
> 
> 
> This might be worth a read when setting phase...
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post19482795
> 
> 
> I didn't get much of a response when I posted this, but I think it is a better way to set up phase and get proper integration between sub and speakers.



I'd also be curious to hear from others who try this approach.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> It is fairly flat from 100 to 20 Hz. Now the target is set by how good the measurement is. So now the calculated is very close to excellent



Thanks Jayray that makes things easier for me. I have 2 weeks holiday coming up after this week so I've organised getting some ceiling accoustic panels (diffusors) installed to help improve the room. Will address the bass by implementing bass traps when I receive my 2nd sub around late Dec early Jan.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19510776
> 
> 
> In my long time AV life, this was the best decision I've made. I can't believe how good this preamp with ARC sounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I was very pleased too.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There's only one set of volume trims (and distance settings for that matter) that are shared by Movie and Music.



Are you referring to ARC?

Because in the D2v's Level Calibration there are 2 volume trims for the subwoofer, Movie Sub and Music Sub, I assume they correspond with the Movie and Music bass management settings.



> Quote:
> We've not yet gotten a good handle on what that new Reference Level value means.



As far as I can tell it applies a Decibel offset for the target curve. Ie -3 offset moves the target curve 3dB lower than an offset of 0.

Whether that affects the resulting reference level set in the D2v, I'm not sure, ARC may compensate for it so absolute reference is always the same. It may just allow tweaking of the target curve level in relation to the measured response so ARC uses a different filter set that results in a closer match to the target curve.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19531103
> 
> 
> Are you referring to ARC?
> 
> Because in the D2v's Level Calibration there are 2 volume trims for the subwoofer, Movie Sub and Music Sub, I assume they correspond with the Movie and Music bass management settings.
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> Cheers



Whoops! Quite correct.










There are separate sub trims for Movie and Music.


But as you noted, you can't bias them before ARC Measures. ARC zeroes out all the volume trims before it Measures.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19531103
> 
> 
> As far as I can tell it applies a Decibel offset for the target curve. Ie -3 offset moves the target curve 3dB lower than an offset of 0.
> 
> Whether that affects the resulting reference level set in the D2v, I'm not sure, ARC may compensate for it so absolute reference is always the same. It may just allow tweaking of the target curve level in relation to the measured response so ARC uses a different filter set that results in a closer match to the target curve.
> 
> 
> Cheers



It appears to affect all speakers. One thought I had was that they were trying to compensate partially for the SPL increase that results from the Room Gain boost in the bass frequencies. I.e., so that level tests you might do after an ARC setup would be closer to the targeted level. Now they don't have to subtract the entirety of Room Gain since it only applies to the bass frequencies and SPL tests with "C" weighting wouldn't even reflect most of those.

--Bob


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19530693
> 
> 
> Are you testing this with source content that includes LFE? It is possible what you are hearing is in the LFE portion of the mix.
> 
> --Bob



No this is with a 2-channel source played back in stereo with analog-dsp and can be confirmed by doing a sweep with the Velodyne SMS. The sub clearly cuts off at 120hz even though the LPF setting in the D2 speaker setup menu says 60hz.


The amount of voice you get out of the sub in this instance is very small, but still can be heard with the speakers off. Its just enough to make out some words with a deep male voice.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19528203
> 
> 
> Ok, at least the player tells the tale--it is Matrixed ES. Since the D2v might be misbehaving on the remapping operation (pending matter in my previous post), maybe it is also not fully cognizant of the ES flags when associated with HDMA, either. But really it is of no consequence. The flag means nothing--especially if your system is set to always expand 5.1 sources to 7.1. And no doubt you'd like to choose which method is applied, since others like PLIIx work better than Neo:6 in that regard.



Right. I ended up using THX Ultra 2 Cinema. That re-eq always seems the best for this title, even back in the old days.


Unfortunately the Anthem did not allow me to manually select DTS-ES (but oddly it does allow DD EX!). I will bring this to Anthem Tech Support's attention.


Thanks


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/19530642
> 
> 
> My "local" Anthem dealer _finally_ called me back. They said it would take a day or so to make the order, and they don't have any delivery ETA information. They want a deposit of 50%, which is acceptable if is not going to be months before I get it.



That's rediculous service. Your dealer should be able to call his Paradigm rep immediately and get an ETA either from the distributor or the factory. If not call the distributor yourself and complain.


In my case I ordered my 50v on Monday and got it Thursday, beating the ETA by 2 days (but I'm in Canada)!


----------



## DOBE

I'm getting ready to purchase the D2v. I have M&K powered speakers for the front 3 and non-powered M&K's for the 2 side and 2 back speakers.


I have a Pioneer 49 avi receiver. My plan was to use the RCA outputs from the Anthem to the balanced inputs on the powered speakers. I was also going to use the analog inputs on the Pioneer receiver which would allow me to use the side and back channels amps in the Pioneer. This would save me from needing to buy 4 mono amps for the side/backs.


A Pioneer tech confirms that no processing in the Pioneer would be used and that the Pioneer would only be used to power the 4 side/back speakers. However, he says anytime you use rca connections, you lose lossless sound.


If this is true then wouldn't you lose lossless sound anytime you connect a pre/pro to any amplifier via balanced or unbalanced connections?


Has anyone tried to use the analog inputs on a receiver to save buying a new amp. Is there a disadvantage in my case to using the 4 channel side/back amps in the Pioneer rather than buying 4 new mono amps?


The loss of lossless sound is an interesting issue to me because if the Pioneer tech is correct that would mean you can't get lossless sound from a pre/pro/separate amp set-up


Thanks.


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19531210
> 
> 
> No this is with a 2-channel source played back in stereo with analog-dsp and can be confirmed by doing a sweep with the Velodyne SMS. The sub clearly cuts off at 120hz even though the LPF setting in the D2 speaker setup menu says 60hz.
> 
> 
> The amount of voice you get out of the sub in this instance is very small, but still can be heard with the speakers off. Its just enough to make out some words with a deep male voice.



I previously tested this with my smaller Paradigm Signature S2's and JL F113 sub. I just ran ARC again with my larger S6's and the F113 and confirmed that I get the same result. The sub LPF is at 120hz even though the D2 shows a LPF of 60hz in the speaker config page. The ARC Targets window shows 60Hz cutoff for the fronts and 120hz cutoff for the sub. Therefore the D2 is using the ARC cutoff frequency as the LPF even when in 2 channel stereo.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/19531380
> 
> 
> I'm getting ready to purchase the D2v. I have M&K powered speakers for the front 3 and non-powered M&K's for the 2 side and 2 back speakers.
> 
> 
> I have a Pioneer 49 avi receiver. My plan was to use the RCA outputs from the Anthem to the balanced inputs on the powered speakers. I was also going to use the analog inputs on the Pioneer receiver which would allow me to use the side and back channels amps in the Pioneer. This would save me from needing to buy 4 mono amps for the side/backs.
> 
> 
> A Pioneer tech confirms that no processing in the Pioneer would be used and that the Pioneer would only be used to power the 4 side/back speakers. However, he says anytime you use rca connections, you lose lossless sound.
> 
> 
> If this is true then wouldn't you lose lossless sound anytime you connect a pre/pro to any amplifier via balanced or unbalanced connections?
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried to use the analog inputs on a receiver to save buying a new amp. Is there a disadvantage in my case to using the 4 channel side/back amps in the Pioneer rather than buying 4 new mono amps?
> 
> 
> The loss of lossless sound is an interesting issue to me because if the Pioneer tech is correct that would mean you can't get lossless sound from a pre/pro/separate amp set-up
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Your rep is confused. Presuming your receiver will simply "pass through" these 4 analog input channels to its power amps, hooking things up the way you are describing has nothing whatsoever to do with whether you can play the high bandwidth LPCM or lossless Bitstream tracks.


However, you may have a problem with clipping on the analog inputs in your receiver as the max output of the D2v may exceed the peak input they are expecting. I.e., they are expecting to be connected to a source device not a preamp. This will depend on how you have the D2v volume set of course.


That aside, the only difference would be the quality of the 4 amp channels you want to use in the receiver vs. whatever new amp you might get.


----------------------------


Also be aware that the XLR outputs are a standard 6dB louder than the RCA outputs so you will need to adjust for that when you are balancing your speakers.

-Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/19531380
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried to use the analog inputs on a receiver to save buying a new amp. Is there a disadvantage in my case to using the 4 channel side/back amps in the Pioneer rather than buying 4 new mono amps?



I am doing just that with my Lexicon receiver until it sells, then I'm buying an Anthem A5. Right now I have an A2 powering the mains.


The other 5 channels are connected to the Lexicon's 5-ch input. I set it to Analog Bypass mode, and fixed the turn-on volume to 0 dB so operation is as simple as an amp. I can also adjust the input levels to avoid clipping (good point Bob) but have not needed to yet.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19530593
> 
> 
> This might be worth a read when setting phase...
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post19482795
> 
> 
> I didn't get much of a response when I posted this, but I think it is a better way to set up phase and get proper integration between sub and speakers.



mvppsu ....this is a very interesting trick indeed to phase match your subs to their satellites. I m puzzled how I could have missed reading it the first time but oh well










In my case, I have 2 subs one in front and one in the rear. Their distances in the Anthem menu is the average between their front and rear distance to the listening position. How would you recommend I phase match my 2 subs to their satellites? how should I determine the distance settings? If I phase match each sub independently to the satellites, is it possible I could run the risk of having them null each other out when running both of them? I only have phase and gain knobs and no polarity knobs on my subs.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19531210
> 
> 
> No this is with a 2-channel source played back in stereo with analog-dsp and can be confirmed by doing a sweep with the Velodyne SMS. The sub clearly cuts off at 120hz even though the LPF setting in the D2 speaker setup menu says 60hz.
> 
> 
> The amount of voice you get out of the sub in this instance is very small, but still can be heard with the speakers off. Its just enough to make out some words with a deep male voice.



This is was why I started this discussion a couple of pages ago. I was getting voices in my subs yet they cross at 90Hz. The levels were low but nonetheless they were there yet I was told that I shouldn't have been hearing male vocals in my sub.


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19531728
> 
> 
> mvppsu ....this is a very interesting trick indeed to phase match your subs to their satellites. I m puzzled how I could have missed reading it the first time but oh well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my case, I have 2 subs one in front and one in the rear. Their distances in the Anthem menu is the average between their front and rear distance to the listening position. How would you recommend I phase match my 2 subs to their satellites? how should I determine the distance settings? If I phase match each sub independently to the satellites, is it possible I could run the risk of having them null each other out when running both of them? I only have phase and gain knobs and no polarity knobs on my subs.



With 2 subs (or more) you need to phase match the subs to each other before any processing. To do this you need to play the same unprocessed test signal to both subs and use the phase knobs on the subwoofers to get them in phase. You'll need some sort of measuring device to do this. They are in phase when the output is maximum across the frequency band. Then you can run ARC, then follow the steps I list in my previous post. Set the front speakers at the actual distance, then starting at the same distance or lower start increasing the sub distance until the subwoofers are in phase with the mains.


You really need some way to measure the response across the entire overlap region, at least 50hz to 100hz, to do this correctly. In my current setup the front speakers are set to 9.5ft and the sub is at 30ft. In between there are many spots where there are large peaks at different frequencies, but there is only one spot where all frequencies are at the maximum, thats with the sub at 30ft for me.


If you don't have a measuring device, I'd highly recomend spending $300 on a Velodyne SMS-1. This is the easiest way to measure your bass response. I don't use mine for anything but setting phase and to me its worth it. I think the odds of someone setting phase exactly right by ear or with a single frequency measuring device like the rat shack spl meter are very very slim...


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19531821
> 
> 
> This is was why I started this discussion a couple of pages ago. I was getting voices in my subs yet they cross at 90Hz. The levels were low but nonetheless they were there yet I was told that I shouldn't have been hearing male vocals in my sub.



My mains are crossed over at 80 Hz (except center is at 70 Hz), all 24 dB/oct, and with the mains turned off, I can still hear certain male voices rumbling through. With the mains on, I cannot detect it. Seems pretty normal to me.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19531967
> 
> 
> With 2 subs (or more) you need to phase match the subs to each other before any processing. To do this you need to play the same unprocessed test signal to both subs and use the phase knobs on the subwoofers to get them in phase. You'll need some sort of measuring device to do this. They are in phase when the output is maximum across the frequency band. Then you can run ARC, then follow the steps I list in my previous post. Set the front speakers at the actual distance, then starting at the same distance or lower start increasing the sub distance until the subwoofers are in phase with the mains.
> 
> 
> You really need some way to measure the response across the entire overlap region, at least 50hz to 100hz, to do this correctly. In my current setup the front speakers are set to 9.5ft and the sub is at 30ft. In between there are many spots where there are large peaks at different frequencies, but there is only one spot where all frequencies are at the maximum, thats with the sub at 30ft for me.
> 
> 
> If you don't have a measuring device, I'd highly recomend spending $300 on a Velodyne SMS-1. This is the easiest way to measure your bass response. I don't use mine for anything but setting phase and to me its worth it. I think the odds of someone setting phase exactly right by ear or with a single frequency measuring device like the rat shack spl meter are very very slim...



Thanks mvppsu ...very informative. I'll look into the SMS-1










EDIT:

I just noticed that your method of phase alignment is what the AS-EQ1 multiple subwoofer equalizer from SVS does in software. Since I already have one (bought one but had forgotten about it







), i may try it as well.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19532046
> 
> 
> My mains are crossed over at 80 Hz (except center is at 70 Hz), all 24 dB/oct, and with the mains turned off, I can still hear certain male voices rumbling through. With the mains on, I cannot detect it. Seems pretty normal to me.



Thanks Roger ...glad to know then that my system isn't broken


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19531408
> 
> 
> I previously tested this with my smaller Paradigm Signature S2's and JL F113 sub. I just ran ARC again with my larger S6's and the F113 and confirmed that I get the same result. The sub LPF is at 120hz even though the D2 shows a LPF of 60hz in the speaker config page. The ARC Targets window shows 60Hz cutoff for the fronts and 120hz cutoff for the sub. Therefore the D2 is using the ARC cutoff frequency as the LPF even when in 2 channel stereo.



The sub 60hz. LPF and HPF for the satellite are the one used by the D2 not the value shown at the ARC target of 120. I believe that the LFE upper limit used by Dolby is 120hz and ARC clearly shows if your sub is capable up to this upper limit. You will surely hear some voices because I suspect that Anthem employs a moderate filter of around 12dB/octave for both the HP and LP fliters. It simply means that if the level at 60hz is unity or at zero then at 120hz., the level will be -12dB. Since the fundamental frequency of a male voice is around 100hz., you will surely hear voices but at a considerable less level. Remember it is a filter not a brick wall. If you emply a 48dB/octave filter(8th order), then the attenuation is much severe and chances are no voices will be heard anymore. but the question is, will it sound as good?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19531967
> 
> 
> With 2 subs (or more) you need to phase match the subs to each other before any processing. To do this you need to play the same unprocessed test signal to both subs and use the phase knobs on the subwoofers to get them in phase. You'll need some sort of measuring device to do this. They are in phase when the output is maximum across the frequency band. Then you can run ARC, then follow the steps I list in my previous post. Set the front speakers at the actual distance, then starting at the same distance or lower start increasing the sub distance until the subwoofers are in phase with the mains.
> 
> 
> You really need some way to measure the response across the entire overlap region, at least 50hz to 100hz, to do this correctly. In my current setup the front speakers are set to 9.5ft and the sub is at 30ft. In between there are many spots where there are large peaks at different frequencies, but there is only one spot where all frequencies are at the maximum, thats with the sub at 30ft for me.
> 
> 
> If you don't have a measuring device, I'd highly recomend spending $300 on a Velodyne SMS-1. This is the easiest way to measure your bass response. I don't use mine for anything but setting phase and to me its worth it. I think the odds of someone setting phase exactly right by ear or with a single frequency measuring device like the rat shack spl meter are very very slim...



I heard about this method of increasing the distance. I believe this is a method that Mark Seaton uses too.


----------



## DOBE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19531480
> 
> 
> Your rep is confused. Presuming your receiver will simply "pass through" these 4 analog input channels to its power amps, hooking things up the way you are describing has nothing whatsoever to do with whether you can play the high bandwidth LPCM or lossless Bitstream tracks.
> 
> 
> However, you may have a problem with clipping on the analog inputs in your receiver as the max output of the D2v may exceed the peak input they are expecting. I.e., they are expecting to be connected to a source device not a preamp. This will depend on how you have the D2v volume set of course.
> 
> 
> That aside, the only difference would be the quality of the 4 amp channels you want to use in the receiver vs. whatever new amp you might get.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------
> 
> 
> Also be aware that the XLR outputs are a standard 6dB louder than the RCA outputs so you will need to adjust for that when you are balancing your speakers.
> 
> -Bob



Thanks Bob.


The Pioneer Tech assured me that the whenever the analog inputs are used in the Elite, the signal is simply "passed through" to the corresponding amp. In my case, the analog inputs for the side and back speakers would be used.


However, for some reason he claims that the lossless signal will be diminished whenever it leaves the pre/pro through an rca or balanced cable. He used the example of a bluray player that decodes the DTS MA or DD HD and sends a lossless signal through the analog inputs. The analog cables are the reason he says you can't get a true lossless signal from a bluray player player through analog connections into an older receiver -- even though you're only using the amp in the receiver.


He says you lose some of the lossless signal whenever you use an rca/analog connection from a pre/pro to an amp. It seems to me that would true anytime you connect any pre/pro to an amp since you always use a balanced or unbalanced analog connection.


Any way, he confused me. I believe you.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/19535151
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> 
> The Pioneer Tech assured me that the whenever the analog inputs are used in the Elite, the signal is simply "passed through" to the corresponding amp. In my case, the analog inputs for the side and back speakers would be used.
> 
> 
> However, for some reason he claims that the lossless signal will be diminished whenever it leaves the pre/pro through an rca or balanced cable. He used the example of a bluray player that decodes the DTS MA or DD HD and sends a lossless signal through the analog inputs. The analog cables are the reason he says you can't get a true lossless signal from a bluray player player through analog connections into an older receiver -- even though you're only using the amp in the receiver.
> 
> 
> He says you lose some of the lossless signal whenever you use an rca/analog connection from a pre/pro to an amp. It seems to me that would true anytime you connect any pre/pro to an amp since you always use a balanced or unbalanced analog connection.
> 
> 
> Any way, he confused me. I believe you.



DOBE:


You reps reasons are indeed from the twilight zone







. You do NOT loose quality of signal whenever you convert a lossless signal into analog.


Remember that the audio signal starts in analog form in the recording studio via high quality analog microphones. Its then digitized to 24bits and encoded into a DSD stream for SACDs or DTS-MA or TrueHD formats for BlueRay disks.


At the user end, the reverse occurs and you eventually end up with the original analog signal at the output of your AVR/pre-pro (ignoring any miniscule distortions induced by these components).


All audio signals are turned into analog to drive power amps via analog cables (rca or balanced). I only know of Meridian that keeps the signal in digital form right into their loudspeakers but even then, to move the speaker cones, you need good old analog via the internal speaker wiring.


So, No ...analog signals do NOT loose their audio quality because they are are transmitted via rca or balanced cables.


One could even argue that other lossless audio types would include analog audio from your tape recorder or vinyl disk and even good old 16-bit CDs.


Lossy types would include MP3, regular Dolby and DTS as these bitstreams are not bit-for-bit indentical to the original digital streams. The reason its called lossy is that chunks of data have been 'thrown away' to make the resultant audio fit into the alloted space for its medium.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/19535151
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> 
> The Pioneer Tech assured me that the whenever the analog inputs are used in the Elite, the signal is simply "passed through" to the corresponding amp. In my case, the analog inputs for the side and back speakers would be used.
> 
> 
> However, for some reason he claims that the lossless signal will be diminished whenever it leaves the pre/pro through an rca or balanced cable. He used the example of a bluray player that decodes the DTS MA or DD HD and sends a lossless signal through the analog inputs. The analog cables are the reason he says you can't get a true lossless signal from a bluray player player through analog connections into an older receiver -- even though you're only using the amp in the receiver.
> 
> 
> He says you lose some of the lossless signal whenever you use an rca/analog connection from a pre/pro to an amp. It seems to me that would true anytime you connect any pre/pro to an amp since you always use a balanced or unbalanced analog connection.
> 
> 
> Any way, he confused me. I believe you.



This tech rep seems confused and perhaps in need of some in service. I can only imagine who else is hearing this nonsense and don't have this forum to check their facts.

John


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19532256
> 
> 
> Thanks Roger ...glad to know then that my system isn't broken



Crossovers are slopes not cliffs so frequencies beyond them will always come through. The question is are things like voices at a low enough level so they can't be heard from the sub when the other speakers are on? If yes, no need to worry.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/19531380
> 
> 
> My plan was to use the RCA outputs from the Anthem to the balanced inputs on the powered speakers.



Nothing to lose over RCA to RCA but nothing to gain over balanced to balanced either. RCA to XLR is still single-ended. If speakers do not have RCA input and D2v XLR output isn't in use, you might consider XLR from one end to the other. Of course, there's an advantage with balanced connection only if something needs fixing, i.e. audible noise when using single-ended connection.


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/19535151
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> 
> The Pioneer Tech assured me that the whenever the analog inputs are used in the Elite, the signal is simply "passed through" to the corresponding amp. In my case, the analog inputs for the side and back speakers would be used.
> 
> 
> However, for some reason he claims that the lossless signal will be diminished whenever it leaves the pre/pro through an rca or balanced cable. He used the example of a bluray player that decodes the DTS MA or DD HD and sends a lossless signal through the analog inputs. The analog cables are the reason he says you can't get a true lossless signal from a bluray player player through analog connections into an older receiver -- even though you're only using the amp in the receiver.
> 
> 
> He says you lose some of the lossless signal whenever you use an rca/analog connection from a pre/pro to an amp. It seems to me that would true anytime you connect any pre/pro to an amp since you always use a balanced or unbalanced analog connection.
> 
> 
> Any way, he confused me. I believe you.



Hi


I have the non power MK speakers and the D2v... My advice is to get a parasound halo a51 for your surround sound speakers.. Don't use any receivers amp sections for it...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/19535151
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> 
> The Pioneer Tech assured me that the whenever the analog inputs are used in the Elite, the signal is simply "passed through" to the corresponding amp. In my case, the analog inputs for the side and back speakers would be used.
> 
> 
> However, for some reason he claims that the lossless signal will be diminished whenever it leaves the pre/pro through an rca or balanced cable. He used the example of a bluray player that decodes the DTS MA or DD HD and sends a lossless signal through the analog inputs. The analog cables are the reason he says you can't get a true lossless signal from a bluray player player through analog connections into an older receiver -- even though you're only using the amp in the receiver.
> 
> 
> He says you lose some of the lossless signal whenever you use an rca/analog connection from a pre/pro to an amp. It seems to me that would true anytime you connect any pre/pro to an amp since you always use a balanced or unbalanced analog connection.
> 
> 
> Any way, he confused me. I believe you.



It's very easy to get confused on this stuff. My guess would be he heard something about digital input is better into that receiver because if you use analog input it has to be redigitized to be processed and if you don't process it you lose things like the ability to do speaker volume trims and distance adjustments. And either that receiver doesn't offer the ability to re-digitize or it does it poorly. Your plan to use the receiver as merely a multi-channel amp (thus no need for processing) is unusual enough that he likely didn't think it through.


Don't be too hard on him. Everybody makes mistakes or has misunderstandings about this stuff. For YEARS I was certain you couldn't get HDMI audio through a DVI cable (with a DVI/HDMI adapter plug at each end) because the DVI cable lacked the necessary wires. Not true. The audio is embedded inside the HDMI video signal. No separate wires. Like I said, it's easy to get confused on this stuff.

--Bob


----------



## DOBE

Thanks guys. Bob you're correct, it's very easy to get confused about this stuff -- even if you're a technician. The onboard bluray player decoding to analog inputs on an old receiver --which doesn't give you lossless sound is what confused me. As I recall, he's correct about that.


However, it's great to have this forum to uncover the true facts.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/19535898
> 
> 
> Thanks guys. Bob you're correct, it's very easy to get confused about this stuff -- even if you're a technician. The onboard bluray player decoding to analog inputs on an old receiver --which doesn't give you lossless sound is what confused me. As I recall, he's correct about that.



He's INcorrect about that. Decoding in the Blu-Ray player gives you high bandwidth, multi-channel LPCM (a different digital audio format). If the player has multi-channel analog outputs then that LPCM will next be converted to analog in the player. If the player's analog output stage is well designed then what you get on those analog outputs reflects all of the quality of the original track.


"Lossless" in this context does not mean "sounds real good". The Bitstream audio formats are a type of compression. The studio masters are multi-channel LPCM. A "lossless" format (e.g, TrueHD or DTS-HD MA) is one that decodes to the identical LPCM that went into the studio encoder in the first place.


The older, traditional DD and DTS formats are "lossy" in the sense that the LPCM that results when they are decoded is *NOT* identical to what went into the encoder in the studio. What gets lost, however, is cleverly chosen so that the difference is hard to hear.


High bandwidth LPCM and the lossless Bitstream formats require special hardware to process, and are wrapped up in the industry's paranoia about pirating, so they can not be transmitted over some types of digital connection that don't include copy protection.


But once they've been converted to analog you are back to common ground again. And a good analog circuit is every bit as capable as the digital circuits in retaining the full quality of the audio.


These days, audio processing is done in digital circuits, so many common receivers have designed in limitations on the type of processing they can do when fed analog audio input -- because they have to re-digitize that first. This would include things like surround sound processing -- taking stereo input and producing sound on your surround speakers from it. So for those receivers, you can use more of these value added features if you use digital audio input.


But that has nothing to do with the QUALITY of the audio presented as analog input.


The only thing that would screw up the quality of the analog audio is if you have a cheap or poorly designed player (which are not always the same thing) which DOESN'T decode the lossless digital track for output as analog but uses the lossy compatibility track (always on disc) instead. But such players probably wouldn't have multi-channel analog audio output jacks anyway.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19535700
> 
> 
> It's very easy to get confused on this stuff.
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> Don't be too hard on him. Everybody makes mistakes or has misunderstandings about this stuff.
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> --Bob



Sigh







! As always, Bob, the voice of reason.


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19532318
> 
> 
> The sub 60hz. LPF and HPF for the satellite are the one used by the D2 not the value shown at the ARC target of 120. I believe that the LFE upper limit used by Dolby is 120hz and ARC clearly shows if your sub is capable up to this upper limit. You will surely hear some voices because I suspect that Anthem employs a moderate filter of around 12dB/octave for both the HP and LP fliters. It simply means that if the level at 60hz is unity or at zero then at 120hz., the level will be -12dB. Since the fundamental frequency of a male voice is around 100hz., you will surely hear voices but at a considerable less level. Remember it is a filter not a brick wall. If you emply a 48dB/octave filter(8th order), then the attenuation is much severe and chances are no voices will be heard anymore. but the question is, will it sound as good?



This is how most people would expect it to work, but I have measured my response multiple times and the sub plays flat from 20hz to 120hz except for the room gain bump around 80hz. And I have confirmed the that crossover in teh speaker setup menu is set to 60hz.


The amount of voice in the sub channel is low enough to not negatively effect my system, and I think the result sounds really good, I'm just pointing out the fact that the D2 is not applying the LPF as shown in the speaker setup menu. Instead it is using the cutoff frequency listed by ARC.


I have a D2 with firmware 1.47f if that matters.


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19532059
> 
> 
> Thanks mvppsu ...very informative. I'll look into the SMS-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> I just noticed that your method of phase alignment is what the AS-EQ1 multiple subwoofer equalizer from SVS does in software. Since I already have one (bought one but had forgotten about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), i may try it as well.



Yes it is the method used by the AS-EQ1 and any other Audessy implementation.


And on that thought, I should point out that any subwoofer with internal or external digital processing adds a digital processing delay to the signal which makes the phase mismatch even worse.


Audessy AS-EQ1 adds 8ms, Velodyne SMS1 adds 4ms, I'm not sure about others...


If you read the manual or FAQ for the Audessey AS-EQ1 regarding integration in a 2 channel system without the ability to delay the front speakers, they state that the only way to remove the digital delay is to physically move the subwoofer closer to your listening posistion. Adjusting the phase knob will not work since it just delays the signal more.


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/19531330
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> My "local" Anthem dealer finally called me back. They said it would take a day or so to make the order, and they don't have any delivery ETA information. They want a deposit of 50%, which is acceptable if is not going to be months before I get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's rediculous service. Your dealer should be able to call his Paradigm rep immediately and get an ETA either from the distributor or the factory. If not call the distributor yourself and complain.
> 
> 
> In my case I ordered my 50v on Monday and got it Thursday, beating the ETA by 2 days (but I'm in Canada)!
Click to expand...


They got back to me and let me know that Anthem did have some D2v units in stock, and that it should ship as soon as the order was placed. My dealer won't place the order until they get some money from me, but I can understand that.


John


----------



## jpoet

The link to "D2v v2.1x Operating Manual" from the product page is broken on Anthem's web site.


Getting it from here:

http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-...t/user-manuals 


seems to work, though.



John


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DOBE* /forum/post/19531380
> 
> 
> I'm getting ready to purchase the D2v. I have M&K powered speakers for the front 3 and non-powered M&K's for the 2 side and 2 back speakers.
> 
> 
> I have a Pioneer 49 avi receiver. My plan was to use the RCA outputs from the Anthem to the balanced inputs on the powered speakers. I was also going to use the analog inputs on the Pioneer receiver which would allow me to use the side and back channels amps in the Pioneer. This would save me from needing to buy 4 mono amps for the side/backs.
> 
> 
> A Pioneer tech confirms that no processing in the Pioneer would be used and that the Pioneer would only be used to power the 4 side/back speakers. However, he says anytime you use rca connections, you lose lossless sound.
> 
> 
> If this is true then wouldn't you lose lossless sound anytime you connect a pre/pro to any amplifier via balanced or unbalanced connections?
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried to use the analog inputs on a receiver to save buying a new amp. Is there a disadvantage in my case to using the 4 channel side/back amps in the Pioneer rather than buying 4 new mono amps?
> 
> 
> The loss of lossless sound is an interesting issue to me because if the Pioneer tech is correct that would mean you can't get lossless sound from a pre/pro/separate amp set-up
> 
> 
> Thanks.



This true but not at this point in the signal chain.


Blue-ray players can do one of two things with a HD lossless recorded signal. Decode it in the player in which case you would use RCA analog out jacks on the player for each of the channels. I do this with my BDP-83 since my AVR does not decode HD audio formats. I have six RCA ended cables between my Blue-ray player and my AVR.


Now if your AVR will decode HD lossless you can send it in the native format from the Blue-ray player over HDMI to the AVR and all is good. All Blue-ray players (that I have seen) also can send the un-decoded signal out over what is called a digital output which has two media formats, optical called TOSLINK, or a digital RCA connector. This digital signal on either media (optical or RCA) can not carry a full bandwidth of a lossless audio signal.


So for the connection from your Blue-ray player to your AVR carrying the digital signal he would be correct. For the connection between your AVR and an an AMP, wrong, no loss.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/19536482
> 
> 
> The link to "D2v v2.1x Operating Manual" from the product page is broken on Anthem's web site.
> 
> 
> Getting it from here:
> 
> http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-...t/user-manuals
> 
> 
> seems to work, though.
> 
> 
> 
> John



Which page on their web site has the broken link?


The manual download is available from several different places on their web site. I just tried 2: The download stuff found on their front page, and the download stuff from the detail page for the D2v, and both worked.


ETA: By the way, manuals are also included in the ARC install kit download, along with several utility programs such as SettingsBackup and LiveVideoSettingsEditor.

--Bob


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19536326
> 
> 
> This is how most people would expect it to work, but I have measured my response multiple times and the sub plays flat from 20hz to 120hz except for the room gain bump around 80hz. And I have confirmed the that crossover in teh speaker setup menu is set to 60hz.
> 
> 
> The amount of voice in the sub channel is low enough to not negatively effect my system, and I think the result sounds really good, I'm just pointing out the fact that the D2 is not applying the LPF as shown in the speaker setup menu. Instead it is using the cutoff frequency listed by ARC.
> 
> 
> I have a D2 with firmware 1.47f if that matters.



Ok , I need to confirm this although I have an AVM50v. I also have some lab equipments to make the nescessary test.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19536326
> 
> 
> This is how most people would expect it to work, but I have measured my response multiple times and the sub plays flat from 20hz to 120hz except for the room gain bump around 80hz. And I have confirmed the that crossover in teh speaker setup menu is set to 60hz.
> 
> 
> The amount of voice in the sub channel is low enough to not negatively effect my system, and I think the result sounds really good, I'm just pointing out the fact that the D2 is not applying the LPF as shown in the speaker setup menu. Instead it is using the cutoff frequency listed by ARC.
> 
> 
> I have a D2 with firmware 1.47f if that matters.



Is the test signal an LFE track? LFE bypasses the preamp's crossover when ARC is on (can also be set manually when ARC is off). On the other hand if what you're describing above is happening with a signal fed to other channels, i.e. bass that's crossed over, or the sub channel via 6-Ch input, please notify [email protected] .


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19536356
> 
> 
> And on that thought, I should point out that any subwoofer with internal or external digital processing adds a digital processing delay to the signal which makes the phase mismatch even worse.



One nice thing about having an AVM/D handle everything is that it knows how much extra delay its sub channel contains since it's not processed the same way as the other channels, and compensates for this behind the scenes.


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19536661
> 
> 
> Is the test signal an LFE track? LFE bypasses the preamp's crossover when ARC is on (can also be set manually when ARC is off). On the other hand if what you're describing above is happening with a signal fed to other channels, i.e. bass that's crossed over, or the sub channel via 6-Ch input, please notify [email protected] .



Here are some screen grabs of the measurment done by the Velodyne SMS-1. The SMS-1 provides a stereo sweep signal that is input into the D2 as a stereo source and played back in Stereo with Analog DSP. In this case I'm using the Music setting, but it does the same for both settings.


The pictuers show the response with both front channels and sub, front channels only, and sub only. I also attached my ARC charts. Nick, I'll email these along with the ARC file to Anthem.


Mike


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19536747
> 
> 
> Here are some screen grabs of the measurment done by the Velodyne SMS-1. The SMS-1 provides a stereo sweep signal that is input into the D2 as a stereo source and played back in Stereo with Analog DSP. In this case I'm using the Music setting, but it does the same for both settings.
> 
> 
> The pictuers show the response with both front channels and sub, front channels only, and sub only. I also attached my ARC charts. Nick, I'll email these along with the ARC file to Anthem.
> 
> 
> Mike



ARC Charts...


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19536569
> 
> 
> Which page on their web site has the broken link?
> 
> 
> The manual download is available from several different places on their web site. I just tried 2: The download stuff found on their front page, and the download stuff from the detail page for the D2v, and both worked.
> 
> 
> ETA: By the way, manuals are also included in the ARC install kit download, along with several utility programs such as SettingsBackup and LiveVideoSettingsEditor.
> 
> --Bob



I just tried it again, and It is working now. Must have been a temporary glitch.



John


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* 
One nice thing about having an AVM/D handle everything is that it knows how much extra delay its sub channel contains since it's not processed the same way as the other channels, and compensates for this behind the scenes.
What a relief Nick! I was wondering about all this as I was planning to use the AS-EQ1 infront of ARC(50v) this weekend. Thanks for clearing this up







.


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mvppsu* 
ARC Charts...
mvppsu:


You really have a set of great speakers







...but I'm puzzled by both graphs:


1. ARC shows you have full range front speakers but SMS shows otherwise. Who's correct?


2. On a similar note, SMS shows a smooth sub response (heck of sub btw) but ARC's measured response shows otherwise. Again, who's correct? Didn't you first EQ with SMS and then add ARC on top of that?



Thanks,

David


----------



## mvppsu

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke* 
mvppsu:


You really have a set of great speakers







...but I'm puzzled by both graphs:


1. ARC shows you have full range front speakers but SMS shows otherwise. Who's correct?


2. On a similar note, SMS shows a smooth sub response (heck of sub btw) but ARC's measured response shows otherwise. Again, who's correct? Didn't you first EQ with SMS and then add ARC on top of that?



Thanks,

David
ARC shows the speakers true response. The SMS-1 response is showing the results of the ARC processing including the crossovers. I did not use the SMS to eq anything. It is not even wired in line with the subwoofer. I only use it as a measurment device to confirm my response and set the phase.


By looking at the graphs we can see 2 things.

1) The subwoofer LPF is set to 120hz and not 60hz

2) The combined response is excellent! +1 for ARC! It really does an amazing job.


Despite the crossover not being where you would expect it, you can't ask for a better result. The SMS graph shows that ARC was unable to fully deal with the front speakers dip around 80hz, but the sub fills this in nicely. If the sub actually crossed over at 60hz, this dip would still be there. So I am not complaining that the sub is crossed over too high, I just wanted to post these graphs to show people that the crossover is not always set at the freq shown in the speaker config.


And this also strengthens my opinion that you need a broadband measuring device to set phase. Measuring only at the crossover frequency is insufficient since the sub and speakers overlap over a broad range of frequencies.


My speakers are Paradigm Signature S6's, C3, and S2's with a JL Audio F113 sub.


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mvppsu* 
ARC shows the speakers true response. The SMS-1 response is showing the results of the ARC processing including the crossovers. I did not use the SMS to eq anything. It is not even wired in line with the subwoofer. I only use it as a measurment device to confirm my response and set the phase.


By looking at the graphs we can see 2 things.

1) The subwoofer LPF is set to 120hz and not 60hz

2) The combined response is excellent! +1 for ARC! It really does an amazing job.


Despite the crossover not being where you would expect it, you can't ask for a better result. The SMS graph shows that ARC was unable to fully deal with the front speakers dip around 80hz, but the sub fills this in nicely. If the sub actually crossed over at 60hz, this dip would still be there. So I am not comlaining that the sub is crossed over too high, I just wanted to post these graphs to show people that the crossover is not always set at the freq shown in the speaker config.


And this also strengthens my opinion that you need a broadband measuring device to set phase. Measuring only at the crossover frequency is insufficient since the sub and speakers overlap over a broad range of frequencies.


My speakers are Paradigm Signature S6's, C3, and S2's with a JL Audio F113 sub.
Thanks mvp ...thanx for this informative post. Revealing indeed! I too do not understand why or how ARC coulds set your sub to 60Hz by looking at your graphs. I think you need to send your ARC data to Anthem.


----------



## ninja12

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mvppsu* 
ARC shows the speakers true response. The SMS-1 response is showing the results of the ARC processing including the crossovers. I did not use the SMS to eq anything. It is not even wired in line with the subwoofer. I only use it as a measurment device to confirm my response and set the phase.


By looking at the graphs we can see 2 things.

1) The subwoofer LPF is set to 120hz and not 60hz

2) The combined response is excellent! +1 for ARC! It really does an amazing job.


Despite the crossover not being where you would expect it, you can't ask for a better result. The SMS graph shows that ARC was unable to fully deal with the front speakers dip around 80hz, but the sub fills this in nicely. If the sub actually crossed over at 60hz, this dip would still be there. So I am not complaining that the sub is crossed over too high, I just wanted to post these graphs to show people that the crossover is not always set at the freq shown in the speaker config.


And this also strengthens my opinion that you need a broadband measuring device to set phase. Measuring only at the crossover frequency is insufficient since the sub and speakers overlap over a broad range of frequencies.


My speakers are Paradigm Signature S6's, C3, and S2's with a JL Audio F113 sub.
From the look of your charts, ARC was able to correct everything in all of your speakers except for your right surround. ARC couldn't fully correct the valley around 105 Hz. Other than that, everything looks good to me. Also, your speakers have no problems playing down to 60 Hz. So, a 60 Hz crossover is good. But, I always say, it's not about what the charts show you, it's about how it sounds to you. So, how does it sound to you?


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Is there any manual or comprehensive description of the Advanced Target Customization features from the new ARC 3.x version?

If it is somewhere here on this forum then I couldn't find it.


Thank you for your help.


----------



## DaveBoswell




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19536747
> 
> 
> Here are some screen grabs of the measurment done by the Velodyne SMS-1. The SMS-1 provides a stereo sweep signal that is input into the D2 as a stereo source and played back in Stereo with Analog DSP. In this case I'm using the Music setting, but it does the same for both settings.
> 
> 
> The pictuers show the response with both front channels and sub, front channels only, and sub only. I also attached my ARC charts. Nick, I'll email these along with the ARC file to Anthem.
> 
> 
> Mike



I'm not sure how you read that the LPF cutoff is in fact 120Hz and not 60Hz - from the SMS-1 charts for Sub response, it looks like the cut off is at around 80Hz (the point where the sub response commences its downward slope unambiguously). But you need to keep in mind that the charts are incorporating room response into the results added to the direct sub response. You could try remeasuring with the mike right beside the sub to ignore room modes and see what you get.


My opinion is that the cut off is in fact commencing at around 60 Hz, but that the room mode peak at approx 80Hz (which you can see in the ARC charts) is overpowering the natural slope of the cross over in this range in the measured charts - but the cool thing is that that is exactly what you would want as the mains have a gap at around 80Hz. The opposite is happening on the mains where the big dip at 80Hz is hiding the fact that the HPF xover should in theory start at around 60-80Hz but looks more like 120Hz - once again, would be interesting to remeasure at reasonable near field (say 1-2m) in front of main woofers to try to eliminate impact of room modes reom measurement.


So it looks to me like ARC has figured out a nice compensation for the combined curves as you would expect. It sets an appropriate xover freq, and then "cheats" by intentionally not filtering the 80Hz peak as much as needed to provide a perfect sub LPF slope, but to allow for a gap fill for the mains at that freq, and hence, a very smooth overall response.


Another comment, which I have also measured in my theather, is that the overall response does not show the expected room gain bump of 3-4db in the 20-200Hz range, but quite the opposite - a gradual slope upwards from 20-200 Hz. Many of us are bumping up our uploaded bass vol by 3-8db to compensate but when you do that, you end up with a signficant hump over the cross over range. This is imo a bigger issue than the cross over freq issue and worht exploring more.


BTW - I like your idea for using sub distance to set phase and will be trying that soon. Really wish that ARC would either do that automatically or at the very least provide a quick measure tool that sweeps (post ARC data upload) across Sub+L/R/C.


Dave


----------



## TREVLAN

Can anyone tell me a rough idea what one might pay for a AVM50 with ARC?

I'm looking to get an AVM50v so I am trying to get a rough idea before I try to sell it.


Thanks.

Mark


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *TREVLAN*
Can anyone tell me a rough idea what one might pay for a AVM50 with ARC?

I'm looking to get an AVM50v so I am trying to get a rough idea before I try to sell it.


Thanks.

Mark
pm me. Where do you live?

John


----------



## xMEATx

Ok, I got my d2v all set up and tried to run arc. Just after the center speaker sweep, I got an error, something like 0.3 error. I am running arc 3.0 w/ version 2.10 and keyspan USB serial 19...the computer uses com port 4. Not sure what else would be helpful for advise. Any thoughts? Btw so far this this is really nice.


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *xMEATx*
Ok, I got my d2v all set up and tried to run arc. Just after the center speaker sweep, I got an error, something like 0.3 error. I am running arc 3.0 w/ version 2.10 and keyspan USB serial 19...the computer uses com port 4. Not sure what else would be helpful for advise. Any thoughts? Btw so far this this is really nice.
Reboot computer and try again or just do a retry. I've had this happen several times but it usually works after I tried my own advice









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *xtrips* 
Hello,


Is there any manual or comprehensive description of the Advanced Target Customization features from the new ARC 3.x version?

If it is somewhere here on this forum then I couldn't find it.


Thank you for your help.
There is not. There is a condensed description in the updated Manual for the processor. It also talks about Quick Measure in there.


There have been many posts here from folks experimenting with these.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19536752
> 
> 
> ARC Charts...



What is the lowest frequency you can adjust with SMS-1?

Can you confirm the lowest frequency responce to the sub adjusted by ARC?


I am thinking about buying SMS-1 to see results down to 10 hz. ARC shows only down to 20 hz. It would be nice for Anthem to make ARC show responce below 20 hz since new subwoofers in the market are carrying very low frequencies nowadays.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19540924
> 
> 
> What is the lowest frequency you can adjust with SMS-1?
> 
> Can you confirm the lowest frequency responce to the sub adjusted by ARC?
> 
> 
> I am thinking about buying SMS-1 to see results down to 10 hz. ARC shows only down to 20 hz. It would be nice for Anthem to make ARC show responce below 20 hz since new subwoofers in the market are carrying very low frequencies nowadays.



Velodyne's website says the SMS-1 measuring tool is rated from 15Hz - 200Hz, at least that's what you'll see from its room frequency plots.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19541413
> 
> 
> Velodyne's website says the SMS-1 measuring tool is rated from 15Hz - 200Hz, at least that's what you'll see from its room frequency plots.



Thanks dmusoke.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes, that's true about the version built into their DD series subwoofers as well. 15Hz is the bottom end. I'm not really sure how much I trust it between 15 and 20Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Farayar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19482795
> 
> 
> So the steps I propose for setting phase (assuming a single subwoofer) are:
> 
> 
> 1) Set Subwoofer phase to 0 in both the MOVIE and MUSIC speaker configurations
> 
> 2) Measure and enter the correct speaker distances for all satellite speakers
> 
> 3) Measure and enter the correct distance for the subwoofer
> 
> 4) While playing a test tone, slowly increase the subwoofer distance until you measure the largest response at the crossover frequency. This can be done using a RadioShack SPL meter, but it is much easier and more effective if you have a broadband measurement system such as the Velodyne SMS-1.



How should the RadioShack SPL meter be used to set the correct sub phase using the method mvppsu is describing?


Thanks.


----------



## xtrips

Hello


Just asking for a friend, is the ARC 3.01 compatible with the D2 (not D2v!)?

Because the latter is not mentioned anymore as a choice during the installation.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/19541743
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> Just asking for a friend, is the ARC 3.01 compatible with the D2 (not D2v!)?
> 
> Because the latter is not mentioned anymore as a choice during the installation.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yes. ARC V3.0.1 is the correct version to use with ALL Anthem processors that are ARC enabled. His D2 should have firmware V1.33 installed (or "test" firmware V1.47f).

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Just got my exchange unit D2v for my D2. Cannot wait to set it up...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/19542093
> 
> 
> Just got my exchange unit D2v for my D2. Cannot wait to set it up...



You have a WHOLE HOLIDAY to play with it - ENJOY










NO TURKEY for SLOTS


----------



## slots1

Well I will get to it after turkey... lots of time... but would like it up and running now..

thks


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Farayar* /forum/post/19541719
> 
> 
> How should the RadioShack SPL meter be used to set the correct sub phase using the method mvppsu is describing?
> 
> 
> Thanks.


*Best Method*

 

Get the AS-EQ1 subwoofer equalizer from SVS. Though discontinued, find one asap. It will time and amplitude align up to 2 subs indepently and simultaneously.

 

In the absence of the above then I'd suggest you use one of 2 methods. The 'NULL' method or the 'PEAK' method. I also would suggest you first go through the normal speaker calibration process as has been described here generously and many times over by Bob Pariseau and others. Both methods also require you to have an external noise source set to generate signals around your crossover frequency as indicated by previous ARC measurements.

 

*Before you start, make sure the phase knobs (if they exist) of your subs are set to 0 degrees!!!*

NULL Method:


1. After, the above calibration process is done, now reverse the polarity of the LF speaker terminals. You can do this directly at the speaker terminals or at the back/rear of your power amplifier (but NOT both







).


2. Go to your sub distance setting in the Setup -> Listener Position -> Subwoofer in the setup menu.


3. Play your noise source and measure the SPL reading on your RS meter as you vary the subwoofer distance settings from 0 to max in 0.5 ft increments as you record the SPL reading from the RS meter.


4. The distance setting that gives you the *MINIMUM* reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....

*Remember to reverse the LF speaker terminals (at the speaker itself or the back of the power amp) to their correct polarity!!!.*


PEAK Method:


1. Do NOT reverse LF speaker polarity as described above in NULL method.


Same steps 2-3 as above.


4. The distance setting that gives you the *MAXIMUM* reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....


My preference is for the NULL method for its easier to detect reliable nulls than peaks on the RS meter.




God bless and Happy Thanksgiving!


David



EDIT: You might have to re-ARC your system after the above mentioned phase alignment.


----------



## buckley44

i have a 2 channel classe omega pre amp how do i connect it to the d2, does the d2 have a pass through so that i can use the classe omega for my 2 channel listening.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19543116
> 
> 
> i have a 2 channel classe omega pre amp how do i connect it to the d2, does the d2 have a pass through so that i can use the classe omega for my 2 channel listening.



Simply connect the stereo XLR or RCA outputs of the preamp into the 2-Channel XLR inputs of the D2 or one of the many 2-channel rca inputs it has.


Just make sure for whatever input is used to have its EQ turned off. In short no ARC processing for that channel. This will disable all bass management functions and simplay pass the audio unprocessed to the D2's XLR or rca outputs.


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19543280
> 
> 
> Simply connect the stereo XLR or RCA outputs of the preamp into the 2-Channel XLR inputs of the D2 or one of the many 2-channel rca inputs it has.
> 
> 
> Just make sure for whatever input is used to have its EQ turned off. In short no ARC processing for that channel. This will disable all bass management functions and simplay pass the audio unprocessed to the D2's XLR or rca outputs.



You don't want to plug the 2 channel preamp's output into the Anthem. That would defeat the purpose of the 2 channel preamp since you would now have 2 volume controls.


I don't think the Classe Omega has a Home Theater Pass Through setting which is needed to utilize it in a shared system. The only other way to make this work is to connect the Anthems Front L/R outputs to an input on the Classe preamp and always manually set the Classe Preamp to a certain volume when using the Anthem. It would need to be set to the same volume everytime you use the Anthem including when you do a calibration.


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19542630
> 
> 
> I'd suggest you use one of 2 methods. The 'NULL' method or the 'PEAK' method. I also would suggest you first go through the normal speaker calibration process as has been described here generously and many times over by Bob Pariseau and others. Both methods also require you to have an external noise source set enerate signals around your crossover frequency as indicated by previous ARC measurements.
> 
> NULL Method:
> 
> 
> 1. After, the above calibration process is done, now reverse the polarity of the LF speaker terminals. You can do this directly at the speaker terminals or at the back/rear of your power amplifier (but NOT both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> 2. Go to your sub distance setting in the Setup -> Listener Position -> Subwoofer in the setup menu.
> 
> 
> 3. Play your noise source and measure the SPL reading on your RS meter as you vary the subwoofer distance settings from 0 to max in 0.5 ft increments as you record the SPL reading from the RS meter.
> 
> 
> 4. The distance setting that gives you the *MINIMUM* reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....
> 
> 
> Remember to reverse the LF speaker terminals (at the speaker itself or the back of the power amp) to their correct polarity.
> 
> 
> 
> PEAK Method:
> 
> 
> 1. Do NOT reverse LF speaker polarity as described above in NULL method.
> 
> 
> Same steps 2-3 as above.
> 
> 
> 4. The distance setting that gives you the *MAXIMUM* reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....
> 
> 
> My preference is for the NULL method for its easier to detect reliable nulls than peaks on the RS meter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> God bless and Happy Thanksgiving!
> 
> 
> David
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: You might have to re-ARC your system after the above mentioned phase alignment.



These directions are correct, but you don't need to re-ARC afterwards. Phase does not effect the ARC process.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19543381
> 
> 
> You don't want to plug the 2 channel preamp's output into the Anthem. That would defeat the purpose of the 2 channel preamp since you would now have 2 volume controls.
> 
> 
> I don't think the Classe Omega has a Home Theater Pass Through setting which is needed to utilize it in a shared system. The only other way to make this work is to connect the Anthems Front L/R outputs to an input on the Classe preamp and always manually set the Classe Preamp to a certain volume when using the Anthem. It would need to be set to the same volume everytime you use the Anthem including when you do a calibration.



Ooops...you're correct! I didn't think about the dueling volume controls







.


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19543483
> 
> 
> Ooops...you're correct! I didn't think about the dueling volume controls
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



the d2 has no pass through on it that i can use the omega preamp's volume control?


----------



## Farayar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19542630
> 
> 
> I'd suggest you use one of 2 methods. The 'NULL' method or the 'PEAK' method. I also would suggest you first go through the normal speaker calibration process as has been described here generously and many times over by Bob Pariseau and others. Both methods also require you to have an external noise source set enerate signals around your crossover frequency as indicated by previous ARC measurements.
> 
> NULL Method:
> 
> 
> 1. After, the above calibration process is done, now reverse the polarity of the LF speaker terminals. You can do this directly at the speaker terminals or at the back/rear of your power amplifier (but NOT both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> 2. Go to your sub distance setting in the Setup -> Listener Position -> Subwoofer in the setup menu.
> 
> 
> 3. Play your noise source and measure the SPL reading on your RS meter as you vary the subwoofer distance settings from 0 to max in 0.5 ft increments as you record the SPL reading from the RS meter.
> 
> 
> 4. The distance setting that gives you the *MINIMUM* reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....
> 
> 
> Remember to reverse the LF speaker terminals (at the speaker itself or the back of the power amp) to their correct polarity.
> 
> 
> 
> PEAK Method:
> 
> 
> 1. Do NOT reverse LF speaker polarity as described above in NULL method.
> 
> 
> Same steps 2-3 as above.
> 
> 
> 4. The distance setting that gives you the *MAXIMUM* reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....
> 
> 
> My preference is for the NULL method for its easier to detect reliable nulls than peaks on the RS meter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> God bless and Happy Thanksgiving!
> 
> 
> David
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: You might have to re-ARC your system after the above mentioned phase alignment.



Thank you very much David for your input and thank you mvppsu for posting your method. I will try this today at night.


Happy Thanksgiving to you as well. Have a nice Holiday.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19543116
> 
> 
> i have a 2 channel classe omega pre amp how do i connect it to the d2, does the d2 have a pass through so that i can use the classe omega for my 2 channel listening.



Whatever you believe you're gaining by going Analog direct, therefore without ARC, I suspect you'll lose more by not having ARC engaged, IMHO.

John


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19543899
> 
> 
> the d2 has no pass through on it that i can use the omega preamp's volume control?



No, there are no surround processors that I know of that have this feature. Usually when people want to integrate a 2 channel preamp and surround processor, they use a 2 channel preamp with a home theater pass through function. See Parasound 2100, Parasound JC2 BP, Krell KAV preamps, etc. In these setups the output of the surround processer goes into the HT passthrough input of hte 2 channel preamp. When listening to music, the signal does not go through the surround processor at all. When listening to movies, the output of hte surround processor goes through the 2 channel preamp with no volume attenuation.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19543116
> 
> 
> i have a 2 channel classe omega pre amp how do i connect it to the d2, does the d2 have a pass through so that i can use the classe omega for my 2 channel listening.



The way I have seen it done is you need to put your analog preamp between the D2 and Amp (If your preamp has a processor pass thru with a gain of 1).

This way all the analog inputs you want untouched goes from your analog source - analog preamp - amp.

And all the other source goes hdmi source - D2 - analog preamp (in 1:1 mode) - analog amp. And this is just for the left and right front channels, the other channels goes directly from the D2 - surround / subwoofer amp.


----------



## Nantha1

I am trying to figure if I need rs232 control over my D2v. Would IR codes give me direct access to inputs such as DVD1 and DVD2? Are there other benefits? Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nantha1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am trying to figure if I need rs232 control over my D2v. Would IR codes give me direct access to inputs such as DVD1 and DVD2? Are there other benefits? Thanks



Yes. On the IR it is a 3 button sequence to switch to a specific input. See Appendix A in the Manual.


The RS232 control is way more extensive then the IR. Way more. In the ARC install kit download from the Anthem site you will find a spreadsheet that details the RS232 stuff.

--Bob


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19544583
> 
> 
> Whatever you believe you're gaining by going Analog direct, therefore without ARC, I suspect you'll lose more by not having ARC engaged, IMHO.
> 
> John



Yes, before I had my D2V I used a Krell KAV integrated amp in passthrough mode with my receiver for stereo playback sourced from a external DAC. After getting the D2V I found the quality difference between the Krell/DAC and the D2V negligible, and the benefit of having ARC tilted the balance towards having the D2V handle everything.


Ultimately I moved the DAC+Krell to a stereo only system.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19543383
> 
> 
> These directions are correct, but you don't need to re-ARC afterwards. Phase does not effect the ARC process.



mvppsu:


Just completed my dual sub alignment using your method and got some interesting results. My room size is 11.0' x 20.0' x 8.0' (Length, Width and Height). I have one sub on either either of the room and I had programmed a subwoofer distance of 10' distance in ARC setup, the average distance between the 2 subs and my listening position.


I adjusted the sub distance setting from 0.0' to 99.0' (which is the maximum possible) as I observed for the lowest null on my RS meter. My test frequency was 90Hz, the crossover ARC had picked earlier during the calibration process.


From distances of 56' - 99', the null reading was 67dB on my RS meter, decreasing to 61dB at 50'.


From then on, I got the lowest possible nulls of 58dB at distances of:


1. 48.5'

2. 36' - 36.5'

3. 23' - 24' .... and lastly

4. 10.5 - 11.5'.


Roughly every 12 feet or so, i get the lowest null of 58dB. So, which distance should i set for my subwoofers (and why







)?


I have currently changed it from 10' to 11.0'.



Thanks,

David


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19546588
> 
> 
> mvppsu:
> 
> 
> Just completed my dual sub alignment using your method and got some interesting results. My room size is 11.0' x 20.0' x 8.0' (Length, Width and Height). I have one sub on either either of the room and I had programmed a subwoofer distance of 10' distance in ARC setup, the average distance between the 2 subs and my listening position.
> 
> 
> I adjusted the sub distance setting from 0.0' to 99.0' (which is the maximum possible) as I observed for the lowest null on my RS meter. My test frequency was 90Hz, the crossover ARC had picked earlier during the calibration process.
> 
> 
> From distances of 56' - 99', the null reading was 67dB on my RS meter, decreasing to 61dB at 50'.
> 
> 
> From then on, I got the lowest possible nulls of 58dB at distances of:
> 
> 
> 1. 48.5'
> 
> 2. 36' - 36.5'
> 
> 3. 23' - 24' .... and lastly
> 
> 4. 10.5 - 11.5'.
> 
> 
> Roughly every 12 feet or so, i get the lowest null of 58dB. So, which distance should i set for my subwoofers (and why
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )?
> 
> 
> I have currently changed it from 10' to 11.0'.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



1st, the wavelength at 90hz is 12.5'. That is why the same measurment repeats itself over and over again every 12.5'.


good calculator here: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-wavelength.htm 


2nd, This situation demonstrates the difficulty of getting the correct phase with a single frequency measurement. One of these settings may be the correct one, but without measuring the response over a range of frequencies it will be hard to determine which one. At each of these settings you get the best response at 90hz, but there are likely dips elsewhere with the wrong setting. You can try to measure a few other frequencies at each of these settings and use the setting that gets the best response at all the frequencies measured.


Example: At each of the distances you list above, also measure at 70hz and 110hz (just randonly picked frequencies spaced around 90hz). Then pick the setting that gives the best response across all frequencies. (Do this with the front speakers wired with the correct phase setting. Therefore you will be looking for the setting where all frequencies are at their peak).


My guess is that 10' is probably too close to the distance of your front speakers, and in my experience the correct setting will almost always be further than the front speaker distance.


When I get a chance I will take some screen captures of the velodyne sms measured response of my system at a variety of sub distance settings to show why it is so difficult to get it right with a single frequency measurment.


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19546588
> 
> 
> mvppsu:
> 
> 
> Just completed my dual sub alignment using your method and got some interesting results. My room size is 11.0' x 20.0' x 8.0' (Length, Width and Height). I have one sub on either either of the room and I had programmed a subwoofer distance of 10' distance in ARC setup, the average distance between the 2 subs and my listening position.
> 
> 
> I adjusted the sub distance setting from 0.0' to 99.0' (which is the maximum possible) as I observed for the lowest null on my RS meter. My test frequency was 90Hz, the crossover ARC had picked earlier during the calibration process.
> 
> 
> From distances of 56' - 99', the null reading was 67dB on my RS meter, decreasing to 61dB at 50'.
> 
> 
> From then on, I got the lowest possible nulls of 58dB at distances of:
> 
> 
> 1. 48.5'
> 
> 2. 36' - 36.5'
> 
> 3. 23' - 24' .... and lastly
> 
> 4. 10.5 - 11.5'.
> 
> 
> Roughly every 12 feet or so, i get the lowest null of 58dB. So, which distance should i set for my subwoofers (and why
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )?
> 
> 
> I have currently changed it from 10' to 11.0'.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



I just remembered that you mentioned using the AS-EQ1 to eq your subs before using ARC. If you are indeed using the AS-EQ1, it introduces about a 8ms delay which converts to ~9 feet of delay. So your correct setting for sub distance needs to be _at least_ 9 feet further than the distance of your front speakers. So 10.5 feet is definetly out.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19546706
> 
> 
> 1st, the wavelength at 90hz is 12.5'. That is why the same measurment repeats itself over and over again every 12.5'.
> 
> 
> good calculator here: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-wavelength.htm
> 
> 
> 2nd, This situation demonstrates the difficulty of getting the correct phase with a single frequency measurement. One of these settings may be the correct one, but without measuring the response over a range of frequencies it will be hard to determine which one. At each of these settings you get the best response at 90hz, but there are likely dips elsewhere with the wrong setting. You can try to measure a few other frequencies at each of these settings and use the setting that gets the best response at all the frequencies measured.
> 
> 
> Example: At each of the distances you list above, also measure at 70hz and 110hz (just randonly picked frequencies spaced around 90hz). Then pick the setting that gives the best response across all frequencies. (Do this with the front speakers wired with the correct phase setting. Therefore you will be looking for the setting where all frequencies are at their peak).
> 
> 
> My guess is that 10' is probably too close to the distance of your front speakers, and in my experience the correct setting will almost always be further than the front speaker distance.
> 
> 
> When I get a chance I will take some screen captures of the velodyne sms measured response of my system at a variety of sub distance settings to show why it is so difficult to get it right with a single frequency measurment.



Good info mvp...thanx!


My fronts & sub are 14' infront of me and rear sub is 6' behind me hence the 10' average distance setting.


Your comment on single frequency measuremt is valid and well-taken. What tones does the Velodyne use?


I guess the ideal would be band-limited noise from maybe 70Hz - 110Hz or so (in my case). I'm not sure how to find such as source but would broadband pink/white noise sources be a reasonable alternative? OTA maybe I should take measurements every 5Hz from 70 to 110Hz...


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19546794
> 
> 
> Good info mvp...thanx!
> 
> 
> My fronts & sub are 14' infront of me and rear sub is 6' behind me hence the 10' average distance setting.
> 
> 
> Your comment on single frequency measuremt is valid and well-taken. What tones does the Velodyne use?
> 
> 
> I guess the ideal would be band-limited noise from maybe 70Hz - 110Hz or so (in my case). I'm not sure how to find such as source but would broadband pink/white noise sources be a reasonable alternative? OTA maybe I should take measurements every 5Hz from 70 to 110Hz...



The Velodyne sweeps from 15-150hz.


I would just measure individual frequencies and make a plot.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19546826
> 
> 
> The Velodyne sweeps from 15-150hz.
> 
> 
> I would just measure individual frequencies and make a plot.



Sounds like a plan...Thanx again







!


----------



## chiliman

Good evening all. Anyone able to lend an opinion or help is appreciated.


I continue to have blu-ray connectivity issues from my Panasonic Blu-ray to my Anthem AVM50. I get the U73 error (HDMI) and spend 5-10 minutes or more every disc getting the units to sync. I recently purchased a Panasonic BD85k in hopes of fixing the issue, but it has not. All my firmware is up to date.


What settings must I change to prevent this problem or better yet which blu-ray players with TruDolby & DTS HD output via PCM works better with the Anthem units and prevents this frustration?


I have done the searches in this thread and this forum without any luck.


Thanks

Randy


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good evening all. Anyone able to lend an opinion or help is appreciated.
> 
> 
> I continue to have blu-ray connectivity issues from my Panasonic Blu-ray to my Anthem AVM50. I get the U73 error (HDMI) and spend 5-10 minutes or more every disc getting the units to sync. I recently purchased a Panasonic BD85k in hopes of fixing the issue, but it has not. All my firmware is up to date.
> 
> 
> What settings must I change to prevent this problem or better yet which blu-ray players with TruDolby & DTS HD output via PCM works better with the Anthem units and prevents this frustration?
> 
> 
> I have done the searches in this thread and this forum without any luck.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Randy



Prior to the OPPO, I had no issue running a Panasonic bd30 with the D2v.


Cheers


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good evening all. Anyone able to lend an opinion or help is appreciated.
> 
> 
> I continue to have blu-ray connectivity issues from my Panasonic Blu-ray to my Anthem AVM50. I get the U73 error (HDMI) and spend 5-10 minutes or more every disc getting the units to sync. I recently purchased a Panasonic BD85k in hopes of fixing the issue, but it has not. All my firmware is up to date.
> 
> 
> What settings must I change to prevent this problem or better yet which blu-ray players with TruDolby & DTS HD output via PCM works better with the Anthem units and prevents this frustration?
> 
> 
> I have done the searches in this thread and this forum without any luck.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Randy



Which firmware are you using? If it is v1.33, email Anthem tech. To get the beta v.47 which has solved a lot of syncing issues.

John


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. Before going ahead using Quick Measure for the Sub, do I need to reset the D2v to factory defaults or just do the measurements find the best location then run ARC again for the rest of the system? And prior to running ARC just note down the original settings for the main volume level and go from there.



> Quote:
> Just remember you need to restore your setup after using Quick Measure. Either do a new ARC setup, or re-Upload your most recent ARC results, or Reload Saved User Settings if you remembered to save those after your prior ARC Upload.



So if I find the best location for the sub I really to need to redo ARC? It doesn't save my results for the sub position separately and combine with an already saved ARC cal?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19549898
> 
> 
> Hi guys. Before going ahead using Quick Measure for the Sub, do I need to reset the D2v to factory defaults or just do the measurements find the best location then run ARC again for the rest of the system? And prior to running ARC just note down the original settings for the main volume level and go from there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if I find the best location for the sub I really to need to redo ARC? It doesn't save my results for the sub position separately and combine with an already saved ARC cal?



No, you don't need to reset the D2v to factory defaults before running Quick Measure. Once you find the best location for your sub, you can then bring out your SPL Meter and adjust your LF to read 75 db via SetUp > Level Calibration > Test Level. Make sure you set Noise Sequence to Manual. You should hear sound coming from your LF. Adjust the Test Level until your SPL Meter shows 75 db. Next, scroll down to your sub. Make sure the trim is 0.0. Now, using the volume knob on your sub, adjust the volume on your sub until the SPL Meter reads 75 db or roughly close to 75 db. It doesn't have to be exact. Just get it close and ARC will take it from there. This should be done from the primary LP. Once you have completed that process, now you can run ARC. I hope this helps and good luck to you.


----------



## Shrike645

The reason you need to do a new load or reload of ARC after a quick measure is because the processor is set to default for the quick measure so that the measurements are done with no correction. Settings are not restored after the quick measure.


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks guys. I did what you suggested as I did think that was the way to do it before reading your post but good to know I did it right. I was restricted in the sub position due to room constraints and cable lengths so here are the graphs with new sub position.


What are your thoughts on the sub? It's flatter b/w 20hz-100hz (not perfect) compared to my last graph.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19550361
> 
> 
> Thanks guys. I did what you suggested as I did think that was the way to do it before reading your post but good to know I did it right. I was restricted in the sub position due to room constraints and cable lengths so here are the graphs with new sub position.
> 
> 
> What are your thoughts on the sub? It's flatter b/w 20hz-100hz (not perfect) compared to my last graph.



You are fine on the sub now. The remaining wiggles are ignorable.


It also looks to me like your treble Measurements are reliable up 10 KHz if you'd like to experiment with that extra octave of correction. Raise Max EQ Frequency from the default 5KHz to 10KHz, re-Calculate, and if you like how the results look, re-Upload. (No need to re-Measure.)

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> You are fine on the sub now. The remaining wiggles are ignorable.



So good to know Bob thank you. Just as an experiment I added some room gain to see the result so here it is.


Should I just leave as is or try with the room gain adjustment?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19550426
> 
> 
> So good to know Bob thank you. Just as an experiment I added some room gain to see the result so here it is.
> 
> 
> Should I just leave as is or try with the room gain adjustment?



As you can see, that results in a bit of residual error (under correction) at 50Hz. Only your ears can tell you which is really better though. You may really like the addition of the Room Gain.


Also, be sure to check LF/RF near 200Hz as the additional Room Gain may also have pushed them beyond what ARC can correct.


You could pull back your Room Gain a little bit to try to find a compromise.


Also see the comment I added above about possibly correcting up to 10KHz. If you do both the increase up there and also add Room Gain you may end up with more wiggles in your results. So check all the speakers across the full frequency range and again experiment with how far you can go with these two changes.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Sorry I didn't see your edited post before doing the room gain graphs. Here are the results after doing as you suggested with the 10hz with original ARC settings


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19550474
> 
> 
> Sorry I didn't see your edited post before doing the room gain graphs. Here are the results after doing as you suggested with the 10hz with original ARC settings



Looks good to me. Now try sneaking up Room Gain, keeping an eye in particular on sub at 50Hz and LF/RF at 200Hz for under correction.


When you get a handle on how far you can push Room Gain, check the rest of the Calculated curves for smoothness, and if you see any problems, dial it back a bit, or dial back Max EQ Frequency, or both, looking for a sweet spot.


If you can get near 2dB of Room Gain out of a 10KHz solution without the quality of the curves breaking down you should have something that sounds excellent.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Also keep an eye on LF in the 40-50Hz range as you experiment with raising Room Gain. Remember that you want good correction at least one octave below the crossover, which is 80Hz at the moment for LF.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Graphs for Room Gain at 2.0 and frequency at 10k.


Edit. Ok I think I've got a handle on what to look for going by what you have said. I don't know what you mean by one octave in relation to reading that on the graph? So basically what I don't want is the green line droping too far below the target curve between 40-50hz for the left front speaker?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19550555
> 
> 
> Graphs for Room Gain at 2.0 and frequency at 10k.
> 
> 
> Edit. Ok I think I've got a handle on what to look for going by what you have said. I don't know what you mean by one octave in relation to reading that on the graph? So basically what I don't want is the green line droping too far below the target curve between 40-50hz for the left front speaker?



Close, but I'm not happy with LF between 40 and 50Hz. Try either dropping Room Gain a bit more or raising the crossover on LF/RF to 85 or 90Hz.


You can see you are on the edge of under correction with Sub, so 2.0 Room Gain is probably as high as you can go.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

An octave is a factor of 2 in frequency. 40Hz is one octave below 80Hz. 10KHz is one octave above 5KHz.


In the case of the main speaker crossovers, they are implemented by a filter that drops volume about 12dB as you go down each octave (with the audio steered to the Sub instead). So if you have good correction for an octave below the crossover frequency then you are in good shape, because anything lower in frequency is so far below the solution in volume already that it won't matter if it is less than perfectly corrected.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok LF set to 90 and gain at 2.0


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19550663
> 
> 
> Ok LF set to 90



Now THAT is starting to look SWEEET!


This one is definitely worth an Upload and a listen.


Before you do that; if you are using Music configuration for any sources remember that you likely need to make similar adjustments on that side of Targets as well.


You can select the Music charts for viewing using ARC's View menu.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Quote:

Now THAT is starting to look SWEEET!


This one is definitely worth an Upload and a listen.
Excellent. I'm not into music that much mostly movies. Thanks so much for taking the time to review my graphs and providing advice. So much better having someone who knows what to look for. Will upload those settings and try it out.


Thanks again


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* 
Excellent. I'm not into music that much mostly movies. Thanks so much for taking the time to review my graphs and providing advice. So much better having someone who knows what to look for. Will upload those settings and try it out.


Thanks again
Definately *NOT* Bob







!


But I would also suggest to set the sub HPF setting to Flat at 20Hz. This is believed to have ARC maintain correction at frequencies below 20Hz. Since your sub seems a powerful one that can handle subsonics easily, its worth the new setting and upload.


----------



## ninja12

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke* 
Definately *NOT* Bob







!


But I would also suggest to set the sub HPF setting to Flat at 20Hz. This is believed to have ARC maintain correction at frequencies below 20Hz. Since your sub seems a powerful one that can handle subsonics easily, its worth the new setting and upload.
So, AUTO does not maintain correction at frequencies below 20 Hz?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ninja12* 
So, AUTO does not maintain correction at frequencies below 20 Hz?
It does, but there is a built in roll-off down there. It corrects to that.


Folks need to be aware that if there is NO filter to reduce the subsonics -- neither in ARC nor in your sub -- it is possible to play content that is bad for your sub.


I know at least one case where a high quality music recording had incredible amounts of 16Hz on disc which the recording engineers didn't catch because their own equipment was not able to reproduce that.


My Velodyne DD series sub has a protective filter that kicks in below 15Hz, and I'm not about to defeat that. With that in place, I can safely use "Flat" in ARC. As it turns out, I happen to like the results from Auto better in my setup. But if I didn't know my sub had its own protection down there I wouldn't feel comfortable using Flat in ARC.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
It does, but there is a built in roll-off down there. It corrects to that.


Folks need to be aware that if there is NO filter to reduce the subsonics -- neither in ARC nor in your sub -- it is possible to play content that is bad for your sub.


I know at least one case where a high quality music recording had incredible amounts of 16Hz on disc which the recording engineers didn't catch because their own equipment was not able to reproduce that.


My Velodyne DD series sub has a protective filter that kicks in below 15Hz, and I'm not about to defeat that. With that in place, I can safely use "Flat" in ARC. As it turns out, I happen to like the results from Auto better in my setup. But if I didn't know my sub had its own protection down there I wouldn't feel comfortable using Flat in ARC.

--Bob
Got it. And as always Bob, thanks for your response.


----------



## smkss

A few days ago Rogers Cable sent an update to their HD PVR's. Since then my D2V is not picking up any audio from my HD PVR. I have gone trhough all the setings on my own and with Rogers tech support, tried different HDMI inputs on the back of my D2V, tried anoher HD PVR , different Hdmi cables and have had no luck. I called Rogers and hey have no solution for me. I have no issues with any of my other devices (oppo bdp-83, Xbox 360 & PS3)

I am currently running v2.10 software on my D2V.


Has anyone else run into his problem or have any sugestions for me?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *smkss* 
A few days ago Rogers Cable sent an update to their HD PVR's. Since then my D2V is not picking up any audio from my HD PVR. I have gone trhough all the setings on my own and with Rogers tech support, tried different HDMI inputs on the back of my D2V, tried anoher HD PVR , different Hdmi cables and have had no luck. I called Rogers and hey have no solution for me. I have no issues with any of my other devices (oppo bdp-83, Xbox 360 & PS3)

I am currently running v2.10 software on my D2V.


Has anyone else run into his problem or have any sugestions for me?
As a workaround, use Optical Digital audio from the PVR to the D2v instead of HDMI audio. The type and quality of audio you get that way will be identical to what you would get over HDMI for content playing on your HD PVR.


Call Anthem tech support to see if they know anything about this Rogers update. I know some folks at Anthem are also victims (urh customers) of Rogers.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke;*
But I would also suggest to set the sub HPF setting to Flat at 20Hz. This is believed to have ARC maintain correction at frequencies below 20Hz.
No, when in Flat mode that minimum filter setting is active. Since the lowest you can set it is 20Hz ARC will do nothing below that, even with it set to 20Hz the corrected response starts moving away from the target from about 30Hz down.

The only way for ARC to correct below this is to set it to Auto. If ARC automatically starts to roll off above 20Hz and you wish it not to, the only way to do it is to adjust the sub level so that around 20Hz it's response is at the target. This way there will be a smooth transition from the ARC's corrections to the natural roll off of your sub below 30Hz.


Just remember, as Bob mentioned, the HPF(aka subsonic filter) for subwoofers is a protection filter to remove those power hungry ultra low frequencies. Without one the subwoofer will reach it's limits at lower volumes depending on the content played, and an excessive DC signal can melt your driver.......so tread carefully










Cheers


----------



## slots1

Well having fun with the D2v. But, I added another RF extender (3) to my logitech 890 to control the lights. Now extender number 1 does not control the Marantz projector. Have to use marantz remote.

Just getting around to tweaking. Still have not run ARC. The D2v came with 2.1 firmware installed. The ARC disc was back in about 2. something, so upgraded to 3.1.

See what tomorrow brings.


----------



## politby

Greetings


I have an AVM50 (not the V version) with ARC. One issue I have is that I have to turn the volume up very high in order to get respectable sound levels. For instance, I regularly end up at -10 dB or higher when, say, watching a movie.


I have three sources, a BD player, an HTPC and an STB, all connected via HDMI. The problem is evident with all 3 so I doubt the problem is caused by either of those devices.


The AVM50 feeds an Emotiva UPA-7 power amp which in turn powers my Swans Diva 6.1 spekers. The fronts are 8 ohms and the UPA-7 delivers 125 watts per channel at that impedance.The 6.1s have a sensitivity of 88dB.


I have also noticed that I get a significantly lower output level when the AVM50 is fed a DD or DTS bitstream compared to 5.1 LPCM.


I would just like to rule out the AVM50 as the culprit here; I am aware that I may just have a slightly underpowered amp. Is there anything I can do or do I just have to live with it?


Here are my ARC results. I know they do not look very impressive but I have a completely hopeless HT room; it is L shaped with doors and windows everywhere and also a stairway. Also I have pretty much zero flexibility when it comes to speaker placement.


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *smkss*
A few days ago Rogers Cable sent an update to their HD PVR's. Since then my D2V is not picking up any audio from my HD PVR. I have gone trhough all the setings on my own and with Rogers tech support, tried different HDMI inputs on the back of my D2V, tried anoher HD PVR , different Hdmi cables and have had no luck. I called Rogers and hey have no solution for me. I have no issues with any of my other devices (oppo bdp-83, Xbox 360 & PS3)

I am currently running v2.10 software on my D2V.


Has anyone else run into his problem or have any sugestions for me?
I have the same PVR and yes there was a firmware update. I have mine hooked up to my Anthem MRX receiver and so far no issue with syncing using hdmi. As Bob suggested, call Anthem as they usually have those Rogers cable boxes on hand. Also try the digital Canada forum; there is very good info there. Last, pull the plug out and let it sit for 10s and it'll reboot. See if that helps. Mine was a bit flakey until I did the reboot.

John


----------



## xMEATx

Hey guys, how do I post my arc results so you can look at them and share your thoughts? Thanks.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19553413
> 
> 
> Hey guys, how do I post my arc results so you can look at them and share your thoughts? Thanks.



Do a screen capture and paste charts in paint. Upload when doing a reply, it is under manage attachments. Save in paint as jpeg file.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/19551812
> 
> 
> Greetings
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50 (not the V version) with ARC. One issue I have is that I have to turn the volume up very high in order to get respectable sound levels. For instance, I regularly end up at -10 dB or higher when, say, watching a movie.
> 
> 
> I have three sources, a BD player, an HTPC and an STB, all connected via HDMI. The problem is evident with all 3 so I doubt the problem is caused by either of those devices.
> 
> 
> The AVM50 feeds an Emotiva UPA-7 power amp which in turn powers my Swans Diva 6.1 spekers. The fronts are 8 ohms and the UPA-7 delivers 125 watts per channel at that impedance.The 6.1s have a sensitivity of 88dB.
> 
> 
> I have also noticed that I get a significantly lower output level when the AVM50 is fed a DD or DTS bitstream compared to 5.1 LPCM.
> 
> 
> I would just like to rule out the AVM50 as the culprit here; I am aware that I may just have a slightly underpowered amp. Is there anything I can do or do I just have to live with it?
> 
> 
> Here are my ARC results. I know they do not look very impressive but I have a completely hopeless HT room; it is L shaped with doors and windows everywhere and also a stairway. Also I have pretty much zero flexibility when it comes to speaker placement.



First of all, your ARC results really don't look half bad despite your room problems. Yes, ARC has to do a lot of correction, but for the most part that is working well for you.


You have two things you should check in the ARC stuff. Your Right Rear speaker Measures as if its woofer is not functioning. Either it is blown or the speaker is not wired correctly. Some speakers have separate input jacks for bass and for higher frequencies -- usually joined together by a buss bar cross connection at the back of the speaker so you only have to run one pair of wires to them. Check the wiring. Next play some stereo content (a CD) with decent bass and select Mono All audio mode which will send the same sound to all your speakers. Then go put your ear up close to the woofer in Right Rear and compare against the output from the woofer in Left Rear.


If you make any fixes here you will need to re-Measure for ARC.


The key here is that the red Measured curve in the bass for Right Rear should look more like what you are getting from Left Rear.


Next your sub is showing as good down to about 35Hz. This is not awful, and is rather typical of many subs sold for home theater use, but you should be aware that there are subs out there which will easily give you another octave lower in bass -- 15 to 20Hz. This is the so-called subsonic bass; the bass you more feel than hear. Now it is just possible your sub has a filter on it that is set to prevent output at the lowest bass frequencies. If so you can try turning that off or setting it to the lowest frequency choice and then re-Measuring for ARC . (NOTE: Don't confuse this with the crossover setting on the sub which limits its output at HIGH bass frequencies.) This subsonic filter sometimes masquerades as a setting for when the sub is positioned "too close" to a wall. Fib to it and say your sub is not against a wall. But more likely the low end output of your sub is just the way your particular sub is designed. So you may want to look at upgrading your sub down the road.


-----------------------------------------------


Now on the volume stuff:


The first thing to do is go get yourself an SPL (sound pressure level) meter. EVERYONE uses the SPL meter sold by Radio Shack. You can use that to quantify the sound levels your system is producing.


The volume trims set in Setup > Level Calibration are the place to start. Set Manual mode in the first line and then scroll down the lines and see what SPL reading you get from each speaker. Set the SPL meter to "C" weighting and "slow" response. Point it straight up at seated ear height at your primary seating position (ARC mic position #1). Hold it away from your body and away from surfaces like a seat back. Give it a few seconds to stabilize for any reading. Set the range control on it so that the value you are measuring is in the middle of the selected range. For example on the Radio Shack digital readout SPL meter you would use the 70dB range to most accurately measure 75dB SPL output.


NOTE: ARC sets these volume trims in the Setup menu as part of its Upload.


Based on your ARC results, I would expect the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration to yield 72 to 75dB SPL. NOTE: These tones are independent of your volume knob setting.


Now this corresponds to what "reference level" audio content will produce for speaker output during normal listening when your main volume is set to -10dB. Be aware that PEAK volumes may easily exceed "reference level" by 15dB.


Presuming you get the expected results from the Level Calibration test tones your audio output is in good shape.


Be aware that each thing you listen to will have its own idea of how loud it should be. It is normal for older DD and DTS tracks to be different volume from newer LPCM, TrueHD or DTS-HD MA tracks, and even sticking to the same type of track a different movie or music recording may have been recorded louder or softer.


If you want to get a better handle on levels, and satisfy yourself that things are working reasonably, I suggest you try the AIX audio calibration Blu-Ray disc in your Blu-Ray player.

http://www.aixrecords.com/catalog/oppo_bd.html 


If the Level Calibration test tones seem to be producing the expected results but you are still feeling that normal content is playing incorrectly, then the first thing to do is to reset all of the "temporary" volume level adjustments that can be made using the small buttons around the middle of your Anthem remote.


To reset all of them in one swell foop, go into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video at this point, continue via the front panel display

3) Reload Saved User Settings


The temporary volume adjustments are not saved, so this resets all of them.

--Bob


----------



## xMEATx

Ok, here are my first arc results. Thoughts? Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19554056
> 
> 
> Ok, here are my first arc results. Thoughts? Thanks



Very nice! What you have now should sound fine. Your room is a little low on Room Gain, so you might try boosting that up to say 2dB or 2.5dB. If the calculated results still look clean give that a listen.


Check the pointing of LF/RF and C to see if you can eke a bit more improvement from them in the treble. For LF/RF, check the toe in. You don't want them pointing at the center seat. A good rule of thumb is to swing them about 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular to the screen towards that center seat. The sort of improvement I'm talking about is the difference between LF and RF up there.


For Center, if it is not mounted at seated ear heigh, check its vertical pointing.


Basically you are into tweaking now. You have no significant problems. It looks like you can depend upon your treble Measurements at least up to 10KHz if you'd like to try raising Max EQ Frequency to let ARC correct that additional octave higher. If you can improve LF/RF and C a bit more -- i.e., if their drop off up there does in fact turn out to be directionality fixed by re-pointing -- then you might even go up to 15KHz.


ETA: If you make any changes in speaker pointing you will need to re-Measure for ARC. The Quick Measure feature will give you a faster way to check the results of pointing changes for a given speaker.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Hey Bob. Thought I would report on how things sound now...Incredible







. I watched Avatar-Collectors Extended and it was just excellent. Bass is just so tight and hard hitting but controlled. The THX trailer at the end had me reaching for the remote as the bass pounded through the room filling it easily, best I've heard it. Also tried Hulk (Edward Norton) and that was scary, very hard hitting bass and the overall sound stage was excellent. Will play some more content today but so far the settings have made a big difference.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19554135
> 
> 
> Hey Bob. Thought I would report on how things sound now...Incredible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I watched Avatar-Collectors Extended and it was just excellent. Bass is just so tight and hard hitting but controlled. The THX trailer at the end had me reaching for the remote as the bass pounded through the room filling it easily, best I've heard it. Also tried Hulk (Edward Norton) and that was scary, very hard hitting bass and the overall sound stage was excellent. Will play some more content today but so far the settings have made a big difference.



That probably explains why these guys just took off for your place:







































--Bob


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Very nice! What you have now should sound fine. Your room is a little low on Room Gain, so you might try boosting that up to say 2dB or 2.5dB. If the calculated results still look clean give that a listen.
> 
> 
> Check the pointing of LF/RF and C to see if you can eke a bit more improvement from them in the treble. For LF/RF, check the toe in. You don't want them pointing at the center seat. A good rule of thumb is to swing them about 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular to the screen towards that center seat. The sort of improvement I'm talking about is the difference between LF and RF up there.
> 
> 
> For Center, if it is not mounted at seated ear heigh, check its vertical pointing.
> 
> 
> Basically you are into tweaking now. You have no significant problems. It looks like you can depend upon your treble Measurements at least up to 10KHz if you'd like to try raising Max EQ Frequency to let ARC correct that additional octave higher. If you can improve LF/RF and C a bit more -- i.e., if their drop off up there does in fact turn out to be directionality fixed by re-pointing -- then you might even go up to 15KHz.
> 
> 
> ETA: If you make any changes in speaker pointing you will need to re-Measure for ARC. The Quick Measure feature will give you a faster way to check the results of pointing changes for a given speaker.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the insight, Bob. It's funny you mention the pointing of my LCR speakers. I just toed them before getting the d2v, because I read in here that B&W speakers are very directional. Reading that, I pointed them right at the listening position. I liked the sound with them more as you described, a little more open. It seemed to give a little wider sound stage. I did point the center up a little, but I don't think it is pointing at ear level. I will change the positions as you suggest and remeasure. As for room gain, what changes are to be expected by raising it? So far I am thrilled at the sound. I might even be safe saying the unit rivals my former dac, the Bryston bda-1 for two channel music. Also, one more question. I know I turn on arc for two channel sources, but do I change the bass manager to music opposed to movie? Thanks again for your help.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19551285
> 
> 
> No, when in Flat mode that minimum filter setting is active. Since the lowest you can set it is 20Hz ARC will do nothing below that, even with it set to 20Hz the corrected response starts moving away from the target from about 30Hz down.
> 
> The only way for ARC to correct below this is to set it to Auto. If ARC automatically starts to roll off above 20Hz and you wish it not to, the only way to do it is to adjust the sub level so that around 20Hz it's response is at the target. This way there will be a smooth transition from the ARC's corrections to the natural roll off of your sub below 30Hz.
> 
> 
> Just remember, as Bob mentioned, the HPF(aka subsonic filter) for subwoofers is a protection filter to remove those power hungry ultra low frequencies. Without one the subwoofer will reach it's limits at lower volumes depending on the content played, and an excessive DC signal can melt your driver.......so tread carefully
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers



It also begins to move away from the target around 30 Hz on down in Auto too. To me, my chart looks the same in Auto or Flat. I have attached my last sub measurement so that you can see what I am talking about.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19554254
> 
> 
> Thanks for the insight, Bob. It's funny you mention the pointing of my LCR speakers. I just toed them before getting the d2v, because I read in here that B&W speakers are very directional. Reading that, I pointed them right at the listening position. I liked the sound with them more as you described, a little more open. It seemed to give a little wider sound stage. I did point the center up a little, but I don't think it is pointing at ear level. I will change the positions as you suggest and remeasure. As for room gain, what changes are to be expected by raising it? So far I am thrilled at the sound. I might even be safe saying the unit rivals my former dac, the Bryston bda-1 for two channel music. Also, one more question. I know I turn on arc for two channel sources, but do I change the bass manager to music opposed to movie? Thanks again for your help.



ARC lets you build two separate solutions which can have any differences in them you like. They are called Movie and Music but really those names are just for convenience as ARC and the Anthem treat them identically in all respects.


Some folks build a Music configuration with the room configured differently (e.g., projection screen up). Some reduce the number of speakers, for example eliminating Center or Sub or the Surrounds. Obviously that sort of configuration would only be appropriate when playing stereo content. Removing speakers may simplify ARC's job in some cases. If there is no significant difference in the ARC solution with speakers removed you can simply use Movie with a different audio mode. For example, Anthem Logic Music surround mode for stereo content does not use the Center speaker.


In my case I have my Music configuration set to exclude Center (so I can use PLIIx-Music and get that same effect as above -- cleans up the front sound stage), but I leave the sub and surrounds in the ARC solution. I then have my sources of stereo music set to use the Music configuration. Now *MOST* of the time I actually use Stereo surround mode when listening to those, which limits output to LF/RF/Sub even though the Surrounds are in the ARC Music solution. But if I want to use PLIIx-Music, the Surrounds are there in the solution and now come into play.


For Multi-channel music I use a source set to use the Movie configuration which has all the speakers in play.


There's really no "right" answer here. You use the options the Anthem provides according to what best suits your whim.


And yes I think you will be much happier letting ARC process your music. For analog sources that means setting ANALOG-DSP (not ANALOG-DIRECT) for that input as well as setting Room EQ ON to turn on ARC itself.


One tip though: If you are playing stereo ANALOG sources, be sure to go into Setup > ADC and raise the sampling rate for re-digitizing that analog input (which is what ANALOG-DSP does) to 96KHz. It defaults to a lower value to maintain compatibility with some digital audio recorders. If you are not recording digital audio you should definitely raise that sampling rate to get better quality for your analog stereo sources. (The 6-channel analog input already defaults to 96KHz.)


------------------------------------------------


Oh, also on the speaker pointing stuff, be sure to check out Quick Measure in the ARC Tools menu. You will be able to see a Measured chart, updated on the fly, as you tweak the pointing for any given speaker.


------------------------------------------------


Room Gain will show on the ARC charts as a shallow hump in the black, dashed Target curve for each speaker near the crossover frequencies. Its effect on output is just what you might expect from the shape of that hump. The Room Gain value is simply the height of that hump (in dB) over the basic volume level of the solution -- 0dB Room Gain means no hump.


Movie mixers assume a modest amount of Room Gain in home theaters. 2-4dB is typical.


Music mixers have no such consensus but the general belief is that a little less Room Gain for Music is probably right.


ARC attempts to measure the inherent Room Gain of your room and preserve it as part of the solution, but you can alter that Target setting. Large rooms or rooms with extensive acoustic treatment will tend to have little or no Room Gain, and so adding a bit may make things sound better.

--Bob


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ARC lets you build two separate solutions which can have any differences in them you like. They are called Movie and Music but really those names are just for convenience as ARC and the Anthem treat them identically in all respects.
> 
> 
> Some folks build a Music configuration with the room configured differently (e.g., projection screen up). Some reduce the number of speakers, for example eliminating Center or Sub or the Surrounds. Obviously that sort of configuration would only be appropriate when playing stereo content. Removing speakers may simplify ARC's job in some cases. If there is no significant difference in the ARC solution with speakers removed you can simply use Movie with a different audio mode. For example, Anthem Logic Music surround mode for stereo content does not use the Center speaker.
> 
> 
> In my case I have my Music configuration set to exclude Center (so I can use PLIIx-Music and get that same effect as above -- cleans up the front sound stage), but I leave the sub and surrounds in the ARC solution. I then have my sources of stereo music set to use the Music configuration. Now *MOST* of the time I actually use Stereo surround mode when listening to those, which limits output to LF/RF/Sub even though the Surrounds are in the ARC Music solution. But if I want to use PLIIx-Music, the Surrounds are there in the solution and now come into play.
> 
> 
> For Multi-channel music I use a source set to use the Movie configuration which has all the speakers in play.
> 
> 
> There's really no "right" answer here. You use the options the Anthem provides according to what best suits your whim.
> 
> 
> And yes I think you will be much happier letting ARC process your music. For analog sources that means setting ANALOG-DSP (not ANALOG-DIRECT) for that input as well as setting Room EQ ON to turn on ARC itself.
> 
> 
> One tip though: If you are playing stereo ANALOG sources, be sure to go into Setup > ADC and raise the sampling rate for re-digitizing that analog input (which is what ANALOG-DSP does) to 96KHz. It defaults to a lower value to maintain compatibility with some digital audio recorders. If you are not recording digital audio you should definitely raise that sampling rate to get better quality for your analog stereo sources. (The 6-channel analog input already defaults to 96KHz.)
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Oh, also on the speaker pointing stuff, be sure to check out Quick Measure in the ARC Tools menu. You will be able to see a Measured chart, updated on the fly, as you tweak the pointing for any given speaker.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Room Gain will show on the ARC charts as a shallow hump in the black, dashed Target curve for each speaker near the crossover frequencies. Its effect on output is just what you might expect from the shape of that hump. The Room Gain value is simply the height of that hump (in dB) over the basic volume level of the solution -- 0dB Room Gain means no hump.
> 
> 
> Movie mixers assume a modest amount of Room Gain in home theaters. 2-4dB is typical.
> 
> 
> Music mixers have no such consensus but the general belief is that a little less Room Gain for Music is probably right.
> 
> 
> ARC attempts to measure the inherent Room Gain of your room and preserve it as part of the solution, but you can alter that Target setting. Large rooms or rooms with extensive acoustic treatment will tend to have little or no Room Gain, and so adding a bit may make things sound better.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, I did a remeasure of repositioned front stage, raised room gain to 2.5, and raised the solution to 10000. Uploaded the results and after a little time listening, I think it improved. Will watch a couple movies and then go back to the original to compare. Thanks again for your help.


----------



## BladeRnR

Hi Bob & Co,


I have finally taken some screenshots of my latest ARC measurements. Your comments /appraisal are most welcome. Subwoofer is set to "Flat" not "Auto".


Mains/Centre are Seaton Catalysts (Active) Operating range - 50 - 20,000Hz. Dual Seaton Submersives Subwoofers. Surrounds are Seaton Sparks (Active) 70 - 20,000Hz


Regards


Blade


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19554262
> 
> 
> It also begins to move away from the target around 30 Hz on down in Auto too. To me, my chart looks the same in Auto or Flat. I have attached my last sub measurement so that you can see what I am talking about.



Here is my Sub 25 with Auto on the left and Flat on the right. Note with Flat, the correction curve is flat at 20 and the auto is beginning to slope down.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BladeRnR* /forum/post/19555077
> 
> 
> Hi Bob & Co,
> 
> 
> I have finally taken some screenshots of my latest ARC measurements. Your comments /appraisal are most welcome. Subwoofer is set to "Flat" not "Auto".
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> Blade



Several problems here. I suggest you concentrate on bass first.


First of all, it looks like your sub has its internal crossover still active at around 80Hz. If so, you want to disable that or turn it up to the highest frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. Failing that you should use the Quick Measure feature and do some repositioning experiments on your sub to try to eliminate that big dip that bottoms out at 125Hz.


Now because of that roll off in your sub, ARC is using a lower crossover for your Surrounds then is really justified given their bass response. The 80 Hz crossover in place now means that you need good correction for them down to around 40Hz and their weak bass output down there is more than ARC can correct. If you can get better high bass out of your sub you could probably use a higher crossover for the Surrounds and avoid this problem.


Next, you have what looks like a room cancellation null that is affecting your front speakers (LF/RF/C) around 80Hz. That could respond well to some minor repositioning. Try moving them a bit further away from the wall/corner behind them. Again, Quick Measure can help you get real time feedback as to what's changing as you move them. At these frequencies even inches can make a difference.


Focus on cleaning up these bass problems and then we can check again on the high frequency end, which may benefit from some adjustment of speaker pointing.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19555144
> 
> 
> Here is my Sub 25 with Auto on the left and Flat on the right. Note with Flat, the correction curve is flat at 20 and the auto is beginning to slope down.
> 
> John



Yes, I see the target is sloping; but, the actual correction is going up on both charts. So, what is ARC doing? It's not following the target. I just looked at my sub chart again. My target is straight for Auto and Flat.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19555261
> 
> 
> Yes, I see the target is sloping; but, the actual correction is going up on both charts. So, what is ARC doing? It's not following the target.



Sure it is. The Calculated curve is closer to the Target than the Measured curve. Likely the Measured curve continues on up below 20Hz and the under correction at 20Hz is due to that. Just above 20Hz the Measured nears the Target so if ARC builds in a cut at 20Hz, that point above 20Hz would likely pass under the Target. Which compromise would you prefer?

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Charts aside, without exception, any movie I watch with good LFE is now closer to theater level than ever before and this is what I wanted for so long. Star Trek is now out of the dog house for bad sound and now back in the good books.









John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19555306
> 
> 
> Sure it is. The Calculated curve is closer to the Target than the Measured curve. Likely the Measured curve continues on up below 20Hz and the under correction at 20Hz is due to that. Just above 20Hz the Measured nears the Target so if ARC builds in a cut at 20Hz, that point above 20Hz would likely pass under the Target. Which compromise would you prefer?
> 
> --Bob



After taking a closer look, I see the Flat is 2db higher than the target, and the Auto is 3db higher than the target. I'm thinking Flat that the correction would just continue to follow the target and not turn up or down. Maybe Anthem will enhance the chart to show us what's going on below 20 Hz so we don't have to guess since v3.0 is now correcting below 20 Hz. Since Flat is not correcting below 20 Hz, I don't think I want to use it since my sub can play below 20 Hz.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19555332
> 
> 
> Charts aside, without exception, any movie I watch with good LFE is now closer to theater level than ever before and this is what I wanted for so long. Star Trek is now out of the dog house for bad sound and now back in the good books.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



And there's recently been a swarm of small earthquakes reported from John's vicinity.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19555332
> 
> 
> Charts aside, without exception, any movie I watch with good LFE is now closer to theater level than ever before and this is what I wanted for so long. Star Trek is now out of the dog house for bad sound and now back in the good books.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I agree. The ears are the only things that really counts in this hobby. So, I guess it's safe to say that Flat works better for you than Auto.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19555351
> 
> 
> I agree. The ears are the only things that really counts in this hobby. So, I guess it's safe to say that Flat works better for you than Auto.



Me too! That's why I suggested it to the poster to begin with







.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19555351
> 
> 
> I agree. The ears are the only things that really counts in this hobby. So, I guess it's safe to say that Flat works better for you than Auto.



I tried another Star Trek, Nemesis, and when the large black ship(Simitar I think) passes overhead the LFE is fantastic. Never had that before so yes, I won't go back and I think my sub can handle it. It's a good thing I don't live near any large fault lines though









John


----------



## politby

Thanks Bob for that exhaustive reply. I have done a bit of testing today; see below.



> Quote:
> You have two things you should check in the ARC stuff. Your Right Rear speaker Measures as if its woofer is not functioning. Either it is blown or the speaker is not wired correctly. Some speakers have separate input jacks for bass and for higher frequencies -- usually joined together by a buss bar cross connection at the back of the speaker so you only have to run one pair of wires to them. Check the wiring. Next play some stereo content (a CD) with decent bass and select Mono All audio mode which will send the same sound to all your speakers. Then go put your ear up close to the woofer in Right Rear and compare against the output from the woofer in Left Rear.



I checked the right rear speaker; they are Swans R3P bipolars:











I am pretty sure both woofers in the rear right are okay. Strangely enough the LEFT rear speaker seems to be outputting more bass when I put my ear close to it (running in mono all mode). The right rear, however is mounted very close to the open staircase so it has a large open area to its right while the right one is at the far rear corner by the outer wall.



> Quote:
> Next your sub is showing as good down to about 35Hz. This is not awful, and is rather typical of many subs sold for home theater use, but you should be aware that there are subs out there which will easily give you another octave lower in bass -- 15 to 20Hz. This is the so-called subsonic bass; the bass you more feel than hear. Now it is just possible your sub has a filter on it that is set to prevent output at the lowest bass frequencies. If so you can try turning that off or setting it to the lowest frequency choice and then re-Measuring for ARC . (NOTE: Don't confuse this with the crossover setting on the sub which limits its output at HIGH bass frequencies.) This subsonic filter sometimes masquerades as a setting for when the sub is positioned "too close" to a wall. Fib to it and say your sub is not against a wall. But more likely the low end output of your sub is just the way your particular sub is designed. So you may want to look at upgrading your sub down the road.



My sub is positioned agains a wall, even worse it is in a corner. Unfortunately not much I can do about that location. It is a Swans Sub60 specced to go down to 28Hz so maybe you are right. I was considering replacing it anyway.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19555332
> 
> 
> Charts aside, without exception, any movie I watch with good LFE is now closer to theater level than ever before and this is what I wanted for so long. Star Trek is now out of the dog house for bad sound and now back in the good books.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Jayray,


Thanks for the heads up on the 'auto' and 'flat' sub settings in ARC.

I had not noticed it, but when i read your results I gave 'flat' a try.


Much better LFE from my SVS PB12-plus.


The only drawback was that I had to soundproof some pictures and posters hanging in my man-cave/HT since they were vibrating during Iron Man2.

I had watched IM2 a week earlier with ARC sub set to auto and there was no rattling.


Good suggestion. Worth a try for people who have subs that are supposed to do LFE below 20hz.



Tom


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19554089
> 
> 
> Very nice! What you have now should sound fine. Your room is a little low on Room Gain, so you might try boosting that up to say 2dB or 2.5dB. If the calculated results still look clean give that a listen.
> 
> 
> Check the pointing of LF/RF and C to see if you can eke a bit more improvement from them in the treble. For LF/RF, check the toe in. You don't want them pointing at the center seat. A good rule of thumb is to swing them about 1/3 of the way around from perpendicular to the screen towards that center seat. The sort of improvement I'm talking about is the difference between LF and RF up there.
> 
> 
> For Center, if it is not mounted at seated ear heigh, check its vertical pointing.
> 
> 
> Basically you are into tweaking now. You have no significant problems. It looks like you can depend upon your treble Measurements at least up to 10KHz if you'd like to try raising Max EQ Frequency to let ARC correct that additional octave higher. If you can improve LF/RF and C a bit more -- i.e., if their drop off up there does in fact turn out to be directionality fixed by re-pointing -- then you might even go up to 15KHz.
> 
> 
> ETA: If you make any changes in speaker pointing you will need to re-Measure for ARC. The Quick Measure feature will give you a faster way to check the results of pointing changes for a given speaker.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, Bob I repositioned the speaker a little and remeasured and raised the room gain to 2.5. Also raised to 10000. Here are the charts.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, Bob I repositioned the speaker a little and remeasured and raised the room gain to 2.5. Also raised to 10000. Here are the charts.



I'd say you've got one great sounding HT









What does it sound like to you?

John


----------



## chiliman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19547651
> 
> 
> Which firmware are you using? If it is v1.33, email Anthem tech. To get the beta v.47 which has solved a lot of syncing issues.
> 
> John



Thanks John, I'll email them.


There is a 50v on auction today from private seller I may take a run at. Also spoke with a dealer who quoted around $3900 to upgrade my 50 to the 50v with ARC.


Randy


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/19557237
> 
> 
> Thanks John, I'll email them.
> 
> 
> There is a 50v on auction today from private seller I may take a run at. Also spoke with a dealer who quoted around $3900 to upgrade my 50 to the 50v with ARC.
> 
> 
> Randy



BTW, that should read v1.47, sorry for the hurried response.









John


----------



## xMEATx

Yeah, it really does sound good....better than before. I am very happy with it.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19556882
> 
> 
> Ok, Bob I repositioned the speaker a little and remeasured and raised the room gain to 2.5. Also raised to 10000. Here are the charts.



I'm not Bob; but, your charts look good. If it sounds as good as your charts look, I would say just sit back and enjoy.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19556758
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the heads up on the 'auto' and 'flat' sub settings in ARC.
> 
> I had not noticed it, but when i read your results I gave 'flat' a try.
> 
> 
> Much better LFE from my SVS PB12-plus.
> 
> 
> The only drawback was that I had to soundproof some pictures and posters hanging in my man-cave/HT since they were vibrating during Iron Man2.
> 
> I had watched IM2 a week earlier with ARC sub set to auto and there was no rattling.
> 
> 
> Good suggestion. Worth a try for people who have subs that are supposed to do LFE below 20hz.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Hmmmmmm....... does anyone really know the true answer to what Auto is doing vs Flat? MACCA350 says ARC is not correcting below 20 Hz when set to Flat. MACCA350 also says to have ARC correct below 20 Hz you have to use Auto. However, since the charts do not show below 20 Hz, we really can't tell what's really going on.


So, to me, there are two mysteries since the introduction of ARC v3.0. 1) The Reference Level Offset: What causes ARC to always set it to -1 and 2) What's really the difference between Auto and Flat.


I did send an email to Anthem to ask what causes the Reference Level Offset to be set to -1. The response was if I change it that it will cause the overall speaker volume to increase which I already knew. When I responded saying yes I see that; but, why was it set to -1 initially, I didn't get another response. So, it's still a mystery to me just like Flat vs Auto is.


----------



## usxplong

Last night I was watching a movie and noticed wider sound stage and more air in the sound quality. I found that I had the Tone (base and treble) turned on. When I bypassed the Tone, I got somehow compressed sound stage. I repeated this process many times to make sure and got the same feeling that turning the Tone on will generate mor sound stage and more theaterical feeling. By the way I had the base and treble vollume set to 0 (zero) so ther was no addition of base or treble but sounded wider. I really liked it and left it like that for now. Any ideas why this happens?


----------



## TKO1

Is anyone using ARC with a Windows 7 Netbook? Just wondering as I am looking at picking one up that doesn't have an optical drive. The idea being I download the latest ARC software and install it. Then copy the two ARC "license" files onto another computer with a CD-ROM drive and then email them to myself on the netbook. Will this work? The only reason I would be getting the netbook would be to use ARC.


Any information greatly appreciated. Thanks.


Cheers.


P.S. I already have the Keyspan USB/Serial Adapter.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/19558135
> 
> 
> Is anyone using ARC with a Windows 7 Netbook? Just wondering as I am looking at picking one up that doesn't have an optical drive. The idea being I download the latest ARC software and install it. Then copy the two ARC "license" files onto another computer with a CD-ROM drive and then email them to myself on the netbook. Will this work? The only reason I would be getting the netbook would be to use ARC.
> 
> 
> Any information greatly appreciated. Thanks.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> P.S. I already have the Keyspan USB/Serial Adapter.



Should work fine. If your email has problems with these files (and it shouldn't) you can use an inexpensive USB thumb drive to transfer them.


Keep in mind you will need two USB sockets -- one for the Keyspan/Serial to the Anthem and the other for the ARC mic itself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19558128
> 
> 
> Last night I was watching a movie and noticed wider sound stage and more air in the sound quality. I found that I had the Tone (base and treble) turned on. When I bypassed the Tone, I got somehow compressed sound stage. I repeated this process many times to make sure and got the same feeling that turning the Tone on will generate mor sound stage and more theaterical feeling. By the way I had the base and treble vollume set to 0 (zero) so ther was no addition of base or treble but sounded wider. I really liked it and left it like that for now. Any ideas why this happens?



Keep in mind that the Tone controls can be set for different speakers. See Section 4.7 in the Manual. So be sure you have all of that at 0.


Also check whether you have anything set in the HF/LF EQ line of Source Setup for that Source.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19556882
> 
> 
> Ok, Bob I repositioned the speaker a little and remeasured and raised the room gain to 2.5. Also raised to 10000. Here are the charts.



This should sound fine but I have one more tweak to suggest.


ARC has selected a 60Hz crossover for your Surrounds but can't quite achieve adequate correction one octave below that at 30Hz for the LS speaker. So I suggest you try raising the cutoff/crossover for the side Surrounds perhaps to 65 or 70Hz to see if you can get results curves that still look this clean without that problem at 1/2 the crossover frequency in LS.


You are right on the edge of this working as is, so a minor change here should do the trick.


No need to re-Measure to do this of course. Also, you don't have to alter any of the other settings when doing this.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Bob and all

Well, here is my first ARC 3.0.1 run on the new D2v. I am using a Submersive HP for sub. I have set the sub on arc to flat. I have never had a room gain on my old D2 or now on the D2v. I have set it to 2.0.

Any comments would be appreciated.

Gerry


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/19558135
> 
> 
> Is anyone using ARC with a Windows 7 Netbook? Just wondering as I am looking at picking one up that doesn't have an optical drive. The idea being I download the latest ARC software and install it. Then copy the two ARC "license" files onto another computer with a CD-ROM drive and then email them to myself on the netbook. Will this work? The only reason I would be getting the netbook would be to use ARC.
> 
> 
> Any information greatly appreciated. Thanks.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> P.S. I already have the Keyspan USB/Serial Adapter.



As long as you have the USB available why not just download everything to a thumb drive and go from there or if you have WiFi you could down load direct to the Netbook or transfer the file from your PC to the Netbook using network shares.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/19558751
> 
> 
> Bob and all
> 
> Well, here is my first ARC 3.0.1 run on the new D2v. I am using a Submersive HP for sub. I have set the sub on arc to flat. I have never had a room gain on my old D2 or now on the D2v. I have set it to 2.0.
> 
> Any comments would be appreciated.
> 
> Gerry



Overall, your charts look good with the exception of your sub. You have almost a 20db drop from 30 Hz to 45 Hz, and ARC couldn't fully correct that. So, you might want to experiment with your sub's placement to try to eliminate that dip. Next, you can begin to tackle your LF. You have close to a 10 db drop from 40 Hz to about 180 Hz; but, ARC has fixed this problem. However, if you can eliminate that null or most of it, then ARC will have to use less resources in that problem area. But, first, if I was you, I would focus on the sub first. Also, you should increase the test volume level to get closer to 75db on your charts.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/19558751
> 
> 
> Bob and all
> 
> Well, here is my first ARC 3.0.1 run on the new D2v. I am using a Submersive HP for sub. I have set the sub on arc to flat. I have never had a room gain on my old D2 or now on the D2v. I have set it to 2.0.
> 
> Any comments would be appreciated.
> 
> Gerry



Eyeball analysis of your red Measured curves says your room really doesn't have any inherent Room Gain. Is it a very large room, or has it been acoustically treated?


Anyway, adding the small amount of Room Gain as you have done makes sense and seems to be working.


Your only significant problem is the sub. Something is definitely amiss there.


First, check really carefully that you don't have an internal crossover active in that sub. If you do, it would be operating at an unusually low frequency -- say 50Hz. If your sub provides "contour" controls for adjusting its output, they too could be the culprit.


If you don't find anything like that, then it's time to open up a can of Quick Measure to try different positioning for your sub. See if you can find a position that yields improved output in the meat of the bass frequencies (40-80Hz). At these frequencies, even inches matter.

--Bob


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19558582
> 
> 
> Should work fine. If your email has problems with these files (and it shouldn't) you can use an inexpensive USB thumb drive to transfer them.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind you will need two USB sockets -- one for the Keyspan/Serial to the Anthem and the other for the ARC mic itself.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. I don't have a USB thumb drive ;-)


Cheers.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19558128
> 
> 
> Last night I was watching a movie and noticed wider sound stage and more air in the sound quality. I found that I had the Tone (base and treble) turned on. When I bypassed the Tone, I got somehow compressed sound stage. I repeated this process many times to make sure and got the same feeling that turning the Tone on will generate mor sound stage and more theaterical feeling. By the way I had the base and treble vollume set to 0 (zero) so ther was no addition of base or treble but sounded wider. I really liked it and left it like that for now. Any ideas why this happens?



A reminder, my suggestion to set flat in advanced mode was first suggested by Nick when I asked him about it for my sub 25. He said it was first developed with the Sub1 and 2 in mind but felt the sub 12, 15, servo 15 and Sub 25 could all benefit from this feature. I have no idea about all the other subs people are reporting on, although I think some of you have the sub 25 as well. So it was not suggested for every sub. I don't think I'm going out on a limb here by saying, some people have visions of grandeur when it comes to their subs capabilities on the AVS forum and this isn't going to work for everyone, so everyone should pay attention to Bob's warnings. I will try to find out from Nick some specifics about correction below 20 Hz.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/19559225
> 
> 
> Thanks. I don't have a USB thumb drive ;-)
> 
> 
> Cheers.



These days you can buy them at your local convenience store for next to nothing. Anyway, Anthem tech support emails these files to people all the time, so really you should have no problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/19556454
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob for that exhaustive reply. I have done a bit of testing today; see below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I checked the right rear speaker; they are Swans R3P bipolars:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am pretty sure both woofers in the rear right are okay. Strangely enough the LEFT rear speaker seems to be outputting more bass when I put my ear close to it (running in mono all mode). The right rear, however is mounted very close to the open staircase so it has a large open area to its right while the right one is at the far rear corner by the outer wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My sub is positioned agains a wall, even worse it is in a corner. Unfortunately not much I can do about that location. It is a Swans Sub60 specced to go down to 28Hz so maybe you are right. I was considering replacing it anyway.



If it's not too much trouble, try swapping your two rear speakers. If the low bass output problem moves with the speaker to the new location you know the problem is in the speaker and is not just due to its previous install location.


You can use Quick Measure in ARC to test this more quickly.


In addition to the design limit of your sub, you should also be aware that subs are sensitive to the size of your room. The sub has to huff a lot of air to pressurize the room at the lowest bass frequencies, and if it is too small for the volume of airspace in your listening area (including openings to other areas) then it won't really work down to its design limit.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Hey Bob. I did some more listening last night and now I'm not totally convinced that the settings have improved things. I tried the This is It-Michael Jackson on Blu-Ray and the bass wasn't as deep as I've heard it before it was more boomy and soft which I was surprised at. I then watched District 9 and again the bass was not that involving and I've heard it sound better. So what I have done is revisit the settings and dropped the gain to 1.9 from 2.0 and changed the frequency to 5k from 10k. Here are the graphs. I noticed that the sub curve has improved and isn't as wiggling as before. I've just uploaded the settings and will have a listen to the same tracks again to compare.


So my question is does the changing of the frequency from 5k to 10k take away dynamics? It's just seemed to me after trying the above mentioned tracks that things just didn't sound as sharp and the clarity was down as well. Not sure how to explain this but that's what I'm hearing and I know the tracks very well.


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This should sound fine but I have one more tweak to suggest.
> 
> 
> ARC has selected a 60Hz crossover for your Surrounds but can't quite achieve adequate correction one octave below that at 30Hz for the LS speaker. So I suggest you try raising the cutoff/crossover for the side Surrounds perhaps to 65 or 70Hz to see if you can get results curves that still look this clean without that problem at 1/2 the crossover frequency in LS.
> 
> 
> You are right on the edge of this working as is, so a minor change here should do the trick.
> 
> 
> No need to re-Measure to do this of course. Also, you don't have to alter any of the other settings when doing this.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, made the change to 70 for the surrounds and the curve smoothed out. How did you know that? Thanks again for the help.


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19558623
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the Tone controls can be set for different speakers. See Section 4.7 in the Manual. So be sure you have all of that at 0.
> 
> 
> Also check whether you have anything set in the HF/LF EQ line of Source Setup for that Source.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19559850
> 
> 
> How did you know that?



Lucky guess.









--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19560298
> 
> 
> Lucky guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Are you sure it was really a lucky guess?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Absolutely. Straight out of left field.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19560361
> 
> 
> Absolutely. Straight out of left field.
> 
> --Bob



Ok. I thought maybe your experience of working with and seeing so many charts may have been the reason. Well, it sounds like you hit a home run.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Normally, I'd consult my "Magic 8 Ball", but it wasn't handy.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Bob

The room is 18 x 18 x 8... it does have acoustic treatment below the screen, which is where the large submersive is to the right of the center speaker. It also has ceiling treatments. But nothing else, although the room has eight theater seats and lots of stuff like a pinball machine, popcorn mach and posters. Hardly any other spot to move the sub..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/19560522
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> The room is 18 x 18 x 8... it does have acoustic treatment below the screen, which is where the large submersive is to the right of the center speaker. It also has ceiling treatments. But nothing else, although the room has eight theater seats and lots of stuff like a pinball machine, popcorn mach and posters. Hardly any other spot to move the sub..



Well that's not that big. Anyway, the Room Gain thing is not really a problem. Any luck on the sub yet?

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Bob

I sent the charts and your comments off to Mark Seaton the maker of the sub. He will probably help and stop by the house in a couple of weeks. His new sub HP (WHICH I up dated too) has two programs, one which adds deeper bass. Not sure which one i have it set for.


----------



## buckley44

do any of you users have a anthem LTX 500v projector in your system, I have all anthem equipment now and im thinking about getting there projector. let me know if you have any feedback.


----------



## ninja12

I sent Anthem Tech Support questions about Flat vs Auto and the Reference Level Offset. The response is below.


"In Auto mode ARC selects the low-pass rolloff characteristics whereas in Flat mode there isn't one. Use Flat only if your sub has substantial output below 20 Hz (much easier said than done).


Correction range has nothing to do with it - that's handled by the other windows in the advanced panel.


ARC always sets ref level to -1 dB, for headroom."


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I sent Anthem Tech Support questions about Flat vs Auto and the Reference Level Offset. The response is below.
> 
> 
> "In Auto mode ARC selects the low-pass rolloff characteristics whereas in Flat mode there isn't one. Use Flat only if your sub has substantial output below 20 Hz (much easier said than done).
> 
> 
> Correction range has nothing to do with it - that's handled by the other windows in the advanced panel.
> 
> 
> ARC always sets ref level to -1 dB, for headroom."



My subs are rated to go to 16 Hz in bass extension mode(one of the two ports plugged). I wonder if flat would work for me? I have two of Outlaw Audio's LFM-1 EX's.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19561481
> 
> 
> My subs are rated to go to 16 Hz in bass extension mode(one of the two ports plugged). I wonder if flat would work for me? I have two of Outlaw Audio's LFM-1 EX's.



I don't know anything about your sub; but, if your sub has a protection circuit in it that will not allow it to play frequencies below 16 Hz, then you might be ok to give Flat a try. If it doesn't have a protection circuit, then you should probably play it safe and stick with Auto. However, the ultimate decision is really up to you.


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know anything about your sub; but, if your sub has a protection circuit in it that will not allow it to play frequencies below 16 Hz, then you might be ok to give Flat a try. If it doesn't have a protection circuit, then you should probably play it safe and stick with Auto. However, the ultimate decision is really up to you.



I am going to check with them today.


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19559352
> 
> 
> If it's not too much trouble, try swapping your two rear speakers. If the low bass output problem moves with the speaker to the new location you know the problem is in the speaker and is not just due to its previous install location.
> 
> 
> You can use Quick Measure in ARC to test this more quickly.
> 
> 
> In addition to the design limit of your sub, you should also be aware that subs are sensitive to the size of your room. The sub has to huff a lot of air to pressurize the room at the lowest bass frequencies, and if it is too small for the volume of airspace in your listening area (including openings to other areas) then it won't really work down to its design limit.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. I seem to have lost the ability to tell left from right; the right rear speaker definitely is not as it should be. Seems almost like both woofers have lost their entire low range. There is no visible or tangible damage, possibly the crossover is broken as it seems to affect both woofers.


Today I moved the subwoofer about 5' away from the corner so it is now roughly centered along the rear wall. I also did a new ARC today:











Also raised the reference level by 3dB on the test tones so the relative level is higher. Don't have an SPL meter and there is no RadioShack in Sweden - don't feel like paying ~$600 for something I will use just once in a while.


The bad news is that there is no Swans distributor here so getting a replacement speaker will not be easy. Not sure what I could replace them with that would work well with my front speakers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Amazon in Germany (Amazon.de) sells some inexpensive Omintronic SPL meters. I've not tried them myself. You definitely do not need an expensive SPL meter.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19561464
> 
> 
> I sent Anthem Tech Support questions about Flat vs Auto and the Reference Level Offset. The response is below.
> 
> 
> "In Auto mode ARC selects the low-pass rolloff characteristics whereas in Flat mode there isn't one. Use Flat only if your sub has substantial output below 20 Hz (much easier said than done).
> 
> 
> Correction range has nothing to do with it - that's handled by the other windows in the advanced panel.



Yes, they're two separate features with two separate settings:


1. "Subwoofer High Pass Order" sets the high pass filter(aka subsonic filter) ARC will use.

In Auto, ARC automatically determines this based on the measured data.

In Flat, ARC will apply no filter.

In 1st-8th Order, you can manually activate a high pass filter and set it's slope(the next "Subwoofer High Pass Frequency" option allows you to set the frequency of that high pass filter)


2. "Min Subwoofer EQ Freq" sets the lowest frequency ARC will apply corrections.

In Auto, this is disabled as ARC will automatically apply filters to bring the response inline with the target curve(though some graphs are showing non correction below 30Hz or so. Why, I'm only guessing ARC may have run out of filters on the sub channel and prioritizes the higher frequencies, or maybe there's a bug). This is also the only mode that this option is disabled so is the only mode that ARC can possibly correct below 20Hz in v3.0 and above, in all other modes the minimum is 20Hz.

In Flat, the minimum setting is 20Hz

In 1st-8th Order, the minimum setting is 20Hz



> Quote:
> ARC always sets ref level to -1 dB, for headroom."



That's strange, that would imply that reference level will be down by 1dB on all ARC solutions. I wouldn't have thought there'd be any headroom issues to warrant this adjustment, especially when it's arbitrarily set. I could understand if the resulting level adjustments would have been set at their maximum, so ARC reduces reference level to ensure the correct speaker balance within the level adjustment range, but this is blindly set.


Cheers


----------



## jayray

Talked to Nick this morning and he said all Paradigm subs protect themselves from excessive input at any frequency.

John


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19562554
> 
> 
> Yes, they're two separate features with two separate settings:
> 
> 
> 1. "Subwoofer High Pass Order" sets the high pass filter(aka subsonic filter) ARC will use.
> 
> In Auto, ARC automatically determines this based on the measured data.
> 
> In Flat, ARC will apply no filter.
> 
> In 1st-8th Order, you can manually activate a high pass filter and set it's slope(the next "Subwoofer High Pass Frequency" option allows you to set the frequency of that high pass filter)
> 
> 
> 2. "Min Subwoofer EQ Freq" sets the lowest frequency ARC will apply corrections.
> 
> In Auto, this is disabled as ARC will automatically apply filters to bring the response inline with the target curve(though some graphs are showing non correction below 30Hz or so. Why, I'm only guessing ARC may have run out of filters on the sub channel and prioritizes the higher frequencies, or maybe there's a bug). This is also the only mode that this option is disabled so is the only mode that ARC can possibly correct below 20Hz in v3.0 and above, in all other modes the minimum is 20Hz.
> 
> In Flat, the minimum setting is 20Hz
> 
> In 1st-8th Order, the minimum setting is 20Hz
> 
> 
> 
> That's strange, that would imply that reference level will be down by 1dB on all ARC solutions. I wouldn't have thought there'd be any headroom issues to warrant this adjustment, especially when it's arbitrarily set. I could understand if the resulting level adjustments would have been set at their maximum, so ARC reduces reference level to ensure the correct speaker balance within the level adjustment range, but this is blindly set.
> 
> 
> Cheers



MACCA350,

I think ARC is correcting below 20 hz but without filter. Otherwise Anthem wouldn't have responded to use Flat "if your sub has substantial output below 20 Hz ".


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19563194
> 
> 
> MACCA350,
> 
> I think ARC is correcting below 20 hz but without filter. Otherwise Anthem wouldn't have responded to use Flat "if your sub has substantial output below 20 Hz ".



To me, I think this is the key statement "In Auto mode ARC selects the low-pass rolloff characteristics whereas in Flat mode there isn't one.". If you leave it on auto, then ARC will determine where it should start rolling off the low frequencies for your sub. However, if you select Flat, ARC is not going to choose a roll off for your sub, and your sub will just have to deal with the low frequencies. So, if your sub can protect itself, then giving Flat a try may not be a bad idea. If your sub can't protect itself, then Auto is best selection for you. If you are not sure, then choose Auto and play it safe. Anyway, that's my .02.


----------



## jayray

Had an interesting experience today with an upload of ARC from 5k to 10K correction. The LFE impact was reduced after this upload. When I reloaded the 5K correction, the LFE impact returned to what I had gotten used to. Someone else posted about this and I thought I would give it a try.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19563850
> 
> 
> Had an interesting experience today with an upload of ARC from 5k to 10K correction. The LFE impact was reduced after this upload. When I reloaded the 5K correction, the LFE impact returned to what I had gotten used to. Someone else posted about this and I thought I would give it a try.
> 
> John



Hello *Anthem* - Can you Hear me Now







This is John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Had an interesting experience today with an upload of ARC from 5k to 10K correction. The LFE impact was reduced after this upload. When I reloaded the 5K correction, the LFE impact returned to what I had gotten used to. Someone else posted about this and I thought I would give it a try.



Ah so you found this too. That was my impression as well after Bob suggested giving 10k a try and have a listen. I found the bass lacking so went back to 5k and bass is back to how I remember it. Good to know it's not just me.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19563921
> 
> 
> Ah so you found this too. That was my impression as well after Bob suggested giving 10k a try and have a listen. I found the bass lacking so went back to 5k and bass is back to how I remember it. Good to know it's not just me.



Hello Anthem can you hear John and SimonNo10









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19563966
> 
> 
> Hello Anthem can you hear John and SimonNo10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



NOT DrHankZ == I'm AFRAID


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19563994
> 
> 
> NOT DrHankZ == I'm AFRAID



Anthem did hear, I emailed Nick.









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19564054
> 
> 
> Anthem did hear, I emailed Nick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Thanks John - *YOU ARE THE MAN*


----------



## xMEATx

After I have had a chance to listen to some music, I have noticed the sound stage sounds a little to the right of center. If I go to the level calibration menu and increase the level on the left front speaker, the sound stage centers to where it sounds correct. These levels are set by arc right? If I adjust them does it mess up the arc settings? The adjustment I employed to balance the sound is +4.5 to +5.5 The right front is already set to +5.5. It doesn't seem like alot, but it does sound better with the increase. Should I worry about increasing it? Thanks.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong;* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> MACCA350,
> 
> I think ARC is correcting below 20 hz but without filter. Otherwise Anthem wouldn't have responded to use Flat "if your sub has substantial output below 20 Hz ".



As I(and Anthem) mentioned, ARC's correction limit and the high pass filter are are two completely different things. In Flat mode the lowest you can set ARC to correct is 20Hz.

Anthem's suggestion to use Flat "if your sub has substantial output below 20 Hz " would be to ensure ARC doesn't apply a high pass filter at all.


Cheers


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19564603
> 
> 
> After I have had a chance to listen to some music, I have noticed the sound stage sounds a little to the right of center. If I go to the level calibration menu and increase the level on the left front speaker, the sound stage centers to where it sounds correct. These levels are set by arc right? If I adjust them does it mess up the arc settings? The adjustment I employed to balance the sound is +4.5 to +5.5 The right front is already set to +5.5. It doesn't seem like alot, but it does sound better with the increase. Should I worry about increasing it? Thanks.



Tweaking the gain will not disrupt ARC. If it sounds balanced when both L and R trims are at 5.5, that all seems quite reasonable.


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tweaking the gain will not disrupt ARC. If it sounds balanced when both L and R trims are at 5.5, that all seems quite reasonable.



Thanks, Roger


----------



## jayray

Read an online review of the D2v + A5 amp and of course ARC. If using ARC you might enjoy this, aside from cognitive disonance of course









John

http://www.avforums.com/review_comme...er-Review.html


----------



## Milt99

Pretty thorough review although I would dispute the Build Quality rating as one notch too low, seriously.

I have a D2 and an A5 and in it's price range the A5 is really as good as it gets and is a real value. The only other amps I can think of that may be a bit better would be the balanced models from Outlaw.

Anthem gets the most attention from their pre-pros but imo, their amps are 2nd to none.


BTW, to jayray & SimonNo10, as an ARC user from day 2, I cutoff the ARC correction at 2k.

Try it, you'll like it


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Pretty thorough review although I would dispute the Build Quality rating as one notch too low, seriously.
> 
> I have a D2 and an A5 and in it's price range the A5 is really as good as it gets and is a real value. The only other amps I can think of that may be a bit better would be the balanced models from Outlaw.
> 
> Anthem gets the most attention from their pre-pros but imo, their amps are 2nd to none.
> 
> 
> BTW, to jayray & SimonNo10, as an ARC user from day 2, I cutoff the ARC correction at 2k.
> 
> Try it, you'll like it



I agree about the amps. My A5 is a work horse and the build quality along with the tightly controlled spec. sheets is second to none. When tested by CSA labs it was so good at full power they were shocked(no pun intended) no other amps they had tested had performed at that level. So you are quite correct Milt







BTW, I will try the 2K correction just for fun.

John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> BTW, to jayray & SimonNo10, as an ARC user from day 2, I cutoff the ARC correction at 2k.
> 
> Try it, you'll like it



Will wait until Jayray tries it before I do







. Also have you tried 5k and compared it to the 2k solution?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19572417
> 
> 
> Will wait until Jayray tries it before I do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Also have you tried 5k and compared it to the 2k solution?



I changed to 2K and did a calculation. There were some peaks around 5K that now appeared and were significant, in most of my speakers. Maybe I'll stick with the 5K.

John


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19571965
> 
> 
> I agree about the amps. My A5 is a work horse and the build quality along with the tightly controlled spec. sheets is second to none. When tested by CSA labs it was so good at full power they were shocked(no pun intended) no other amps they had tested had performed at that level. So you are quite correct Milt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I will try the 2K correction just for fun.
> 
> John



It would be interesting to see if CSA labs has tested the Halo A51 (my amp). I would guess it is equal to the A5-look at the specs and reviews.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19574241
> 
> 
> It would be interesting to see if CSA labs has tested the Halo A51 (my amp). I would guess it is equal to the A5-look at the specs and reviews.



I was told that the comparison was done with similarly spec'd amps. Pretty good indication that Anthem does not exaggerate specs to the extent others do. Don't know if yours was one of them.

John


----------



## politby

I'm getting real frustrated with ARC. I have only been able to complete the process twice.


Sometimes I don't even get past the measurement of the front left channel for position 1, sometimes I will get as far as position 3 or 4. Then I get a message box saying "failed to obtain an accurate measurement" or something to that effect. It asks if I want to try the measurement again but that never works.


I am running on a Thinkpad laptop with Windows 7 64-bit. It is connected via the Keyspan serial/USB adapter that Anthem recommends. Everything seems to be configured OK. Also tried a Dell laptop running W7/32-bit, same thing.


I am completely alone in the house and there are no extraneous sounds anywhere so nothing to disturb.


Same problem with 2.43 and 3.01. Tried different USB ports, tried a USB adapter with separate power to the mic, tried different serial and USB cables.


Has anyone else experienced anything similar?


This seems to be the most finicky software I have encountered in a long time.


----------



## tranle

I am also running on a thinkpad (t400s) with win7 x64 and a keyspan with no problem.

You should check if somehow your speaker level is too low or there is some interfering noise from outside or you just have a defective microphone.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/19574431
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced anything similar?



I had the same problem - years ago.


I don't remember if it was speaker level as tranle said or

another level like test tone level. It's an easy fix when you

know what knob to tweak


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/19574431
> 
> 
> I'm getting real frustrated with ARC. I have only been able to complete the process twice.
> 
> 
> Sometimes I don't even get past the measurement of the front left channel for position 1, sometimes I will get as far as position 3 or 4. Then I get a message box saying "failed to obtain an accurate measurement" or something to that effect. It asks if I want to try the measurement again but that never works.
> 
> 
> I am running on a Thinkpad laptop with Windows 7 64-bit. It is connected via the Keyspan serial/USB adapter that Anthem recommends. Everything seems to be configured OK. Also tried a Dell laptop running W7/32-bit, same thing.
> 
> 
> I am completely alone in the house and there are no extraneous sounds anywhere so nothing to disturb.
> 
> 
> Same problem with 2.43 and 3.01. Tried different USB ports, tried a USB adapter with separate power to the mic, tried different serial and USB cables.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced anything similar?
> 
> 
> This seems to be the most finicky software I have encountered in a long time.



I have had this more since the new versions, ie. 2.4 on but I would contact Anthem and they should be able to help, in fact, they want to hear from us more often rather than post here and wait for someone to respond. I know how frustrating this is.

John


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19574550
> 
> 
> I have had this more since the new versions, ie. 2.4 on but I would contact Anthem and they should be able to help, in fact, they want to hear from us more often rather than post here and wait for someone to respond. I know how frustrating this is.
> 
> John



I have emailed them; just figured I'd post here as well to see if someone had a solution.


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/19574521
> 
> 
> I am also running on a thinkpad (t400s) with win7 x64 and a keyspan with no problem.
> 
> You should check if somehow your speaker level is too low or there is some interfering noise from outside or you just have a defective microphone.



There is absolutely no interfering noise from anywhere. I even increased the test tone level by 10dB - it is now so loud that I almost cannot be in the room.










I guess the mic may be flaky - will see what Anthem support comes back with.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/19574800
> 
> 
> There is absolutely no interfering noise from anywhere. I even increased the test tone level by 10dB - it is now so loud that I almost cannot be in the room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess the mic may be flaky - will see what Anthem support comes back with.



The other things to check is:

- keyspan port mapping need to be between 1-6. I have mine a COM2

- you can use the quickmeasure under advanced to check if your problem is happening for all speakers or just a few. Beware that using quickmeasure will zero out your current arc settings and you need to reload your previous setup.

- if the level is too high it not going to work either.


----------



## schlitzie

Tranie -- I literally just went through exactly the same thing after updating my D2V to 2.4 and ARC to 3.0...


Very very frustrating. I kept getting error code 0x03, which is a microphone error of it not hearing a tone. Changed every cable and even had Anthem send a new mic. Piero in Anthem tech support and I spent quite a bit of phone time together trying to determine what the problem was as I really did not want to send it in... Eventually I re-loaded every driver possible in the computer and ended re-loading ARC and the Anthem OS about three times... And boom all of a sudden it worked. Not sure what fix repaired it because I did them all simultaneously, but I'd suggest you try that all first...


Good Luck!


Mike


----------



## yacht422

i had the same problem - make certain the baud rates are set correctly - 19,200 i think. - i had a bad time with this, and with andrew at anthem -

the problem i had was in finding the com port file in the device manager - my DM had no such file.

turns out there needs to be a serial device connected to the computer in order to find the com file - anthem did not know this, nor did six "experts" here in fl.

at any rate, make certain the baud rates and bit rates are correct for the input to your D2(V)

walt




BAUD RATE: 19,200

Stop Bits: 2

Data Bits: 8

Flow Control: None

Parity: None

COM: 1 through 6 only. as from andrew at anthem.

walt


----------



## xMEATx

What is the consensus of the DSP settings of the D2v, like THX and Prologic, the less the better? I kinda like Anthem Music for two channel though.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I guess the mic may be flaky - will see what Anthem support comes back with.



I feel your pain mate as I have gone through (not the same problem as you) recently with 2 faulty D2v units, but now I have a perfectly working unit after allot of time and testing on my part. Sorry to hear of your troubles but if that's the only issues your having with the unit (not that it's significant), then hopefully it's fixable through some reinstalls of software etc rather than a unit replacement. Have you experienced any other problems like video drop outs or loss of audio? I had everything and was just unlucky but the seller, Anthem and the kind folks here on this forum got me through it so hopefully someone will come through for you and sort the issue out.


Take it from me it's worth the pain and effort as I was seriously considering going something else after my experiences, but now after owning a perfect unit for over 3 weeks now I wouldn't change it for anything else. Really hope you sort out the problem and start to enjoy the Anthem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19576189
> 
> 
> What is the consensus of the DSP settings of the D2v, like THX and Prologic, the less the better? I kinda like Anthem Music for two channel though.



ProLogic is an older surround sound process that should be considered obsolete. Use PLIIx instead. Use ProLogic only if you are trying to duplicate the sound of older equipment for some strange reason.


The surround sound stuff raises a smaller number of input channels to a larger number of speakers. THX, on the other hand, is an additional stage of audio processing after the surround sound stuff. The various things that THX does are pretty well described in the manual, keeping in mind that a big part of it only applies to different ways to treat the rear speakers in a 7.1 speaker system (meaning those don't apply to 5.1 speakers).


Choosing to use THX or not is personal preference. Since ARC came out, my personal preference is not to add THX as I think that makes the sound less clean.


For stereo music I most often just use Stereo audio mode (only LF/RF/Sub active for output). If I want surround for stereo music my choice is PLIIx-Music.


For stereo TV I use Anthem Logic-Cinema unless its a movie in which case I switch to PLIIx-Movie.


For movies on disc with stereo audio I use PLIIx-Movie. (If it's a stereo or mono TV show on disc, I switch to AL-Cinema.)


For older, mono movies that appear to have the olde timey brassy hissy sound, I use Mono Academy.


Again there is no "right" answer to any of this. It's all personal preference.


Remember that you can set the DEFAULT audio processing on a per source AND per type of audio basis in Setup > Mode Presets. And then of course you can change from that on the fly using the Mode button and Up/Down arrow. Also keep in mind that the choices you'll have available when using the Mode button vary according to the number of speakers you have, the format of the audio input, and whether or not you have THX on at the moment. (NOTE: Mode Presets will let you pick combos that don't actually apply, such as 7.1 speaker modes when you only have 5.1 speakers. If you do that, the Anthem will use the closest correct mode during listening.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/19574800
> 
> 
> There is absolutely no interfering noise from anywhere. I even increased the test tone level by 10dB - it is now so loud that I almost cannot be in the room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess the mic may be flaky - will see what Anthem support comes back with.



There have also been unconfirmed reports here that background tasks running in your Windows PC, such as a firewall or virus checker, can interrupt ARC's ability to receive data from the microphone. Try turning those off temporarily.


The microphone and any USB/serial adapter should be directly attached to the computer -- not running through a USB hub or a USB socket on a separate keyboard for example. Temporarily disconnect any other USB devices you might normally use with this computer.


I should also warn you that in the past Anthem has discovered the version of Windows bundled with computers has been altered by the computer maker so that it doesn't function the same way as the retail version of windows. The point being that in some cases, the only real solution is to switch to a different computer.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19564603
> 
> 
> After I have had a chance to listen to some music, I have noticed the sound stage sounds a little to the right of center. If I go to the level calibration menu and increase the level on the left front speaker, the sound stage centers to where it sounds correct. These levels are set by arc right? If I adjust them does it mess up the arc settings? The adjustment I employed to balance the sound is +4.5 to +5.5 The right front is already set to +5.5. It doesn't seem like alot, but it does sound better with the increase. Should I worry about increasing it? Thanks.



ARC sets the levels according to what it hears from mic position #1. That's why #1 needs to be at the center seating position.


If you normally sit at a different location, temporarily move to #1 and see if things are balanced again, and if so, you know ARC is doing what it was supposed to do and the change in balance is just a result of the acoustics of your room vs. seating positions.


Also keep in mind that source content may vary in quality. There are "temporary" adjustments you can make with the remote to deal with that. See Sections 4.6 and 4.7 in the Manual for those.


If ARC is producing a solution that's not properly balanced, it would be best to try to figure out why rather than tweaking the volume trims after the fact. But you can't really break anything significant by minor tweaking like this.

--Bob


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19576269
> 
> 
> I feel your pain mate as I have gone through (not the same problem as you) recently with 2 faulty D2v units, but now I have a perfectly working unit after allot of time and testing on my part. Sorry to hear of your troubles but if that's the only issues your having with the unit (not that it's significant), then hopefully it's fixable through some reinstalls of software etc rather than a unit replacement. Have you experienced any other problems like video drop outs or loss of audio? I had everything and was just unlucky but the seller, Anthem and the kind folks here on this forum got me through it so hopefully someone will come through for you and sort the issue out.
> 
> 
> Take it from me it's worth the pain and effort as I was seriously considering going something else after my experiences, but now after owning a perfect unit for over 3 weeks now I wouldn't change it for anything else. Really hope you sort out the problem and start to enjoy the Anthem.



My AVM50 has been rock solid ecxcept for this ARC problem. I have gone through a fair number of AVRs before I got the Anthem and it is easily the most reliable HDMI implementation I have encountered. As my main source of audio and video is a HTPC I get the odd HDCP error but since it does not happen with my STB or BD player I put that down to ATI's drivers







.


As far as sending the AVM in for surgery I do not have many options since Anthem's distributor here in Sweden is out of business and as far as I know there has been no replacement. The closest is in Denmark. Besides, it is long out of warranty.


I'll see if an upgrade/reinstall of the firmware might help, I am going to try that tomorrow.


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19576350
> 
> 
> There have also been unconfirmed reports here that background tasks running in your Windows PC, such as a firewall or virus checker, can interrupt ARC's ability to receive data from the microphone. Try turning those off temporarily.
> 
> 
> The microphone and any USB/serial adapter should be directly attached to the computer -- not running through a USB hub or a USB socket on a separate keyboard for example. Temporarily disconnect any other USB devices you might normally use with this computer.
> 
> 
> I should also warn you that in the past Anthem has discovered the version of Windows bundled with computers has been altered by the computer maker so that it doesn't function the same way as the retail version of windows. The point being that in some cases, the only real solution is to switch to a different computer.
> 
> --Bob



Just for the heck of it I have taken an old laptop and reformatted/reinstalled Windows Vista 32-bit at a minimum configuration, basically just the O/S and the ARC software and Keyspan drivers. I will test that config tomorrow to see if that makes a difference.


IMO well written software should not require turning off basic Windows background tasks in order to function. I always install Windows on my PCs directly from Technet distribution (I used to be a Windows PM at Microsoft so I am quite familiar with the bloatware PC vendors tend to overload their PCs with







)


I will also try reloading the AVM50 firmware to see if that makes a difference.


The strange thing is that even though the success rate is low, it DID work twice - once before the summer when I had just upgraded the AVM50 with ARC, and once last week.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I figured the priority is to find a configuration that works for you.


Once we get THERE we'll have more leisure time to explain to Anthem (and Microsoft) how to improve their engineering.










I doubt your problem is firmware in the AVM 50. However one thing you SHOULD check is that the RS-232 settings in your AVM 50 are at the factory defaults -- see the picture in the Manual for that section in Setup. If you've been using an RS-232 based remote control system you might have altered those. This is one of the reasons a firmware install is always preceded by a Reload Factory Defaults.


It is much more likely the problem is something on the Windows side.

--Bob


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19576673
> 
> 
> I figured the priority is to find a configuration that works for you.
> 
> 
> Once we get THERE we'll have more leisure time to explain to Anthem (and Microsoft) how to improve their engineering.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Absolutely, no offense intended! I'm sure I'll get it figured out. Maybe the new stripped Vista install will work.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

And none taken. I've looked sharply in Anthem's direction several times myself.










The type of error you are getting indicates that the ARC Windows application is having trouble getting good data from the mic. Presuming the sounds you are hearing from the speakers sound normal to your ear this is unlikely to be a problem in the AVM 50.


It could be ambient sound (for example bass rumbles that you can't hear), but typically that would generate a different error complaining about just that.


So the thing to look to is the data path from the mic. It could be a marginal mic, a USB cable that's not seated properly at either end, a problem with the USB input system in the computer, or something that's interfering with the ability of the ARC application to get data from that USB port. ARC relies on a mic audio capture framework that's part of the Windows media stuff, so if there is something that gets in the way of that working reliably (e.g., a firewall or whatever sticking its nose in at the wrong time) the programming to fix that is not under Anthem's control.

--Bob


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/19574431
> 
> 
> I'm getting real frustrated with ARC. I have only been able to complete the process twice.
> 
> 
> Sometimes I don't even get past the measurement of the front left channel for position 1, sometimes I will get as far as position 3 or 4. Then I get a message box saying "failed to obtain an accurate measurement" or something to that effect. It asks if I want to try the measurement again but that never works.
> 
> 
> I am running on a Thinkpad laptop with Windows 7 64-bit. It is connected via the Keyspan serial/USB adapter that Anthem recommends. Everything seems to be configured OK. Also tried a Dell laptop running W7/32-bit, same thing.
> 
> 
> I am completely alone in the house and there are no extraneous sounds anywhere so nothing to disturb.
> 
> 
> Same problem with 2.43 and 3.01. Tried different USB ports, tried a USB adapter with separate power to the mic, tried different serial and USB cables.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced anything similar?
> 
> 
> This seems to be the most finicky software I have encountered in a long time.



read my post 31524

that info from anthem and my local techs may help you .

also, as per anthem and "The Bob", set the test tone in the +3.5 max range. "Just enough" noise is generated to eliminate the 0x03 note, but adequate for measurement purposes.

good luck

walt


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19572417
> 
> 
> Will wait until Jayray tries it before I do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Also have you tried 5k and compared it to the 2k solution?



I've done them all, pal. 2k, 5k, 10k, 15k, 20k.

IMO, the ARC mic is unreliable above 5k.

I set it below the xover point between the mid and the tweeter.

In my situation, it sounds far better and the processing power is concentrated where it's needed most.

I'v had 3.0 for awhile and am thinking about finally installing it and re-measuring with it this weekend and trying out some of the new features like the flat subwoofer option.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You should also revisit the high end correction with ARC V3.0.x.

--Bob


----------



## scanido

Hey all,


I haven't read a clear cut answer on this, but if I order a new D2V now will it have the newer HDMI 1.4 board?


I couldn't care less for the ethernet or return audio features, but it would be nice to know if the processor would support 3D passthrough along with 4K resolution.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/19579003
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> 
> I haven't read a clear cut answer on this, but if I order a new D2V now will it have the newer HDMI 1.4 board?
> 
> 
> I couldn't care less for the ethernet or return audio features, but it would be nice to know if the processor would support 3D passthrough along with 4K resolution.



If you order it now the answer is no. The anticipated upgrade has not been released yet, and it's not clear precisely when that will happen. I suggest you track the thread here for the MRX receivers as I expect anything like this for the D2v will follow the firmware release which enables 3D pass through on those new receivers. Best guess for THAT is early next year.

--Bob


----------



## scanido

Hi Bob, thanks for the quick reply.


So i take it the current D2V hardware can support passing through 3D and 4K resolution but is just firmware limited at this point, is that right?


If so I think I can go ahead and purchase an early XMAS present as i can wait for a firmware update.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scanido* /forum/post/19579216
> 
> 
> Hi Bob, thanks for the quick reply.
> 
> 
> So i take it the current D2V hardware can support passing through 3D and 4K resolution but is just firmware limited at this point, is that right?
> 
> 
> If so I think I can go ahead and purchase an early XMAS present as i can wait for a firmware update.



No. The upgrade that's been talked about is a field upgrade (user or dealer I expect) that replaces 4 of the 8 HDMI inputs and 1 of the 2 HDMI outputs with new HDMI V1.4a hardware. Price and availability unknown, but rumor has it that dealers have been told its coming.


These sockets are on daughter boards which is what makes the suggested upgrade both easy and relatively inexpensive


I suspect that at the time they offer that upgrade they WILL rev the D2v production hardware so that all inputs and outputs are HDMI V1.4a, but that's not actually been stated. I also suspect that there will be corresponding price increase for such a new D2v (as well of course as a charge for prior buyers who want the upgrade). New firmware will also be required for this stuff to work of course.


I also suspect that 3D will only be unprocessed pass through. That is, I'll be surprised if they rev the video processor code for 3D that quickly.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Hi y'all:


Have any of you had ARC "give up the ghost" beyond certain target frequencies? In my 5.1 setup, the maximum target frequency I can rely on for correction is 15KHz. Beyond that, strange things happen. The left & right surrounds seem to only have been equalized to 2KHz. The Center is corrected to 5KHz only with the rest are corrected normally for target frequencies of 16KHz and above. I'm using ARC 3.0.1.


Thanks,

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19579355
> 
> 
> Hi y'all:
> 
> 
> Have any of you had ARC "give up the ghost" beyond certain target frequencies? In my 5.1 setup, the maximum target frequency I can rely on for correction is 15KHz. Beyond that, strange things happen. The left & right surrounds seem to only have been equalized to 2KHz. The Center is corrected to 5KHz only with the rest are corrected normally for target frequencies of 16KHz and above. I'm using ARC 3.0.1.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



Yes, that indicates you've run out of resources (too much correction to be done) and ARC is trying to allocate correction to where it will do the most good.


Curiously enough, you can sometimes get past this by RAISING Max EQ Frequency as some of the correction resources appear to span the range of frequencies and may fit better in a slightly larger range.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19579373
> 
> 
> Yes, that indicates you've run out of resources (too much correction to be done) and ARC is trying to allocate correction to where it will do the most good.
> 
> 
> Curiously enough, you can sometimes get past this by RAISING Max EQ Frequency as some of the correction resources appear to span the range of frequencies and may fit better in a slightly larger range.
> 
> --Bob



In my case, I tried all frequencies from 16KHz to 20KHz in 1KHz increments and it still couldn't EQ all speakers. Not that I'm complaining since I have no need to correction above 15K, but was curious why my setup behaved the way it did. I have a 4-5dB peak between 10KHz -12KHz in my fronts so I only need to correct up to 12KHz.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19579473
> 
> 
> In my case, I tried all frequencies from 16KHz to 20KHz in 1KHz increments and it still couldn't EQ all speakers. Not that I'm complaining since I have no need to correction above 15K, but was curious why my setup behaved the way it did. I have a 4-5dB peak between 10KHz -12KHz in my fronts so I only need to correct up to 12KHz.



I suspect you need a lot of correction in bass. If you post the charts, perhaps something else will become evident.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19579486
> 
> 
> I suspect you need a lot of correction in bass. If you post the charts, perhaps something else will become evident.
> 
> --Bob



Here they are ...I know I have a hole between 100-200Hz on my fronts bur ARC tried to correct that somewhat, tho not perfectly. My fronts are ribbons with dual side-firing woofers 2 feet from the front wall. If I place them closer to the wall, that hole disappears but imaging suffers. I have set the room gain switch to the off-wall position.


The dual subwoofers have all their EQ and filtering bypassed. Spent over a week trying to find the best placement and this was it. if i move them to the center of the room (and act as foot rests







) then their high frequency response improves dramatically.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19579559
> 
> 
> Here they are ...I know I have a hole between 100-200Hz on my fronts bur ARC tried to correct that somewhat, tho not perfectly. My fronts are ribbons with dual side-firing woofers 2 feet from the front wall. If I place them closer to the wall, that hole disappears but imaging suffers. I have set the room gain switch to the off-wall position.
> 
> 
> The dual subwoofers have all their EQ and filtering bypassed. Spent over a week trying to find the best placement and this was it. if i move them to the center of the room (and act as foot rests
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) then their high frequency response improves dramatically.



Well the dip in the crossover region for LF/RF is probably where the resources are going. If you had better high end response from your sub, ARC would probably have raised the crossover a bit further for LF/RF as a way to slice through that dip.


It's always harder to fill in a dip than to lop off a peak. That's because if you feed more energy into whatever is causing that dip, it will just cancel more energy out.


That said, the drop off in all speakers above 15KHz is a sign to me that you don't really have good data up there. I think that the highest you should attempt to push correction of these Measurements is between 10 and 15KHz. And since your problems only show up if you try to push above that, I think you can table this issue. I.e., I don't think that roll off above 15KHz is "real".


More than fixing the sub, I'd try to find a way to get rid of that lower end dip in LF/RF so you can get a clean solution for them at 90Hz cutoff/crossover or below. Another way to help with that dip would be to pull back on the Room Gain ARC found as the dip is right where the Room Gain hump is coming in and making the amount of correction needed there even greater.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19579674
> 
> 
> Well the dip in the crossover region for LF/RF is probably where the resources are going. If you had better high end response from your sub, ARC would probably have raised the crossover a bit further for LF/RF as a way to slice through that dip.
> 
> 
> It's always harder to fill in a dip than to lop off a peak. That's because if you feed more energy into whatever is causing that dip, it will just cancel more energy out.
> 
> 
> That said, the drop off in all speakers above 15KHz is a sign to me that you don't really have good data up there. I think that the highest you should attempt to push correction of these Measurements is between 10 and 15KHz. And since your problems only show up if you try to push above that, I think you can table this issue. I.e., I don't think that roll off above 15KHz is "real".
> 
> 
> More than fixing the sub, I'd try to find a way to get rid of that lower end dip in LF/RF so you can get a clean solution for them at 90Hz cutoff/crossover or below. Another way to help with that dip would be to pull back on the Room Gain ARC found as the dip is right where the Room Gain hump is coming in and making the amount of correction needed there even greater.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob ....done! Now, how does this look with a room gain of 2.0? Should I lower it further?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19579712
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob ....done! Now, how does this look with a room gain of 2.0? Should I lower it further?



No, I'd say you are close enough now. The real question will be how it sounds to you.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
No, I'd say you are close enough now. The real question will be how it sounds to you.

--Bob
Thanks Bob ...will tinker with the high end as discussed previously and upload for a listen. Thanks again man...you're a life saver







.


----------



## politby

Quote:

Originally Posted by *yacht422* 
read my post 31524

that info from anthem and my local techs may help you .

also, as per anthem and "The Bob", set the test tone in the +3.5 max range. "Just enough" noise is generated to eliminate the 0x03 note, but adequate for measurement purposes.

good luck

walt
Thanks Walt, those settings are one of the first things I checked. I also have had no problem with the serial/USB communication when upgrading the AVM50 firmware so that is not it.


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *politby* 
Thanks Walt, those settings are one of the first things I checked. I also have had no problem with the serial/USB communication when upgrading the AVM50 firmware so that is not it.
Politby...maybe this has already been asked and answered, but when you zero'd out all the trims, did you get a 75dB level using your RS meter with fresh batteries? My test level is +7dB and I normally set my sub gain a liitle hot at 77dB or so and let ARC trim it down to the correct levels.


----------



## politby

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
And none taken. I've looked sharply in Anthem's direction several times myself.










The type of error you are getting indicates that the ARC Windows application is having trouble getting good data from the mic. Presuming the sounds you are hearing from the speakers sound normal to your ear this is unlikely to be a problem in the AVM 50.


It could be ambient sound (for example bass rumbles that you can't hear), but typically that would generate a different error complaining about just that.


So the thing to look to is the data path from the mic. It could be a marginal mic, a USB cable that's not seated properly at either end, a problem with the USB input system in the computer, or something that's interfering with the ability of the ARC application to get data from that USB port. ARC relies on a mic audio capture framework that's part of the Windows media stuff, so if there is something that gets in the way of that working reliably (e.g., a firewall or whatever sticking its nose in at the wrong time) the programming to fix that is not under Anthem's control.

--Bob
This is witchcraft.







Tried running it today with the newly formatted Vista laptop. Did not work at all. Kept getting "failed to initialize Wave capture device".


Went back to my Windows 7/64 machine and now suddenly it worked. The only thing different from yesterday is that I had the laptop plugged into AC power because it needed charging. I have no idea if this resulted in more stable DC power to the mic.


So I have results now (hooray) but I encountered a different issue: the results show a severe drop off in response beyond 10kHz. Here is the center channel as an example:


From summer 2010











Today











The reason why I wanted to re-run ARC is that I have replaced some of my speakers, my fronts and rear surrounds are now Elac FS127s. They have an unusual configuration in that the tweeters are ported to the rear:











I have read about some users seeing a similar problem with certain B&W speakers but this drop off is evident on ALL speakers, not just the Elacs. Center and side surrounds exhibit the same drop.


The speakers are fine, and I have done nothing to the room itself since I ran ARC before the summer - at that time there was no drop off. I wonder if the mic really is marginal?


----------



## politby

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke* 
Politby...maybe this has already been asked and answered, but when you zero'd out all the trims, did you get a 75dB level using your RS meter with fresh batteries? My test level is +7dB and I normally set my sub gain a liitle hot at 77dB or so and let ARC trim it down to the correct levels.
Don't have an SPL meter










I guess I've had it pointed out to me so many times now that I guess I need to get one. The cheapest one I can find locally is the equivalent of $260


----------



## tngiloy

Quote:

Originally Posted by *politby* 
Don't have an SPL meter










I guess I've had it pointed out to me so many times now that I guess I need to get one. The cheapest one I can find locally is the equivalent of $260








Not sure of your location.

This is the RS spl I use. You can find more expensive, but this is more than adaquate to set speaker levels.


Whoops!







Looks like its out of stock on their website, but it was in stock at local stores near me. I bet they'll have it back in stock soon.


Tom


----------



## politby

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tngiloy* 
Not sure of your location.

This is the RS spl I use. You can find more expensive, but this is more than adaquate to set speaker levels.


Whoops!







Looks like its out of stock on their website, but it was in stock at local stores near me. I bet they'll have it back in stock soon.


Tom
Well, there's an ocean in between me and the closest RS







but believe it or not I did find one today at something like $70. Seems to work fine. I will post my results later to see if I can get some final comments.


----------



## Larry Lang




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/19580006
> 
> 
> This is witchcraft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried running it today with the newly formatted Vista laptop. Did not work at all. Kept getting "failed to initialize Wave capture device".
> 
> 
> Went back to my Windows 7/64 machine and now suddenly it worked. The only thing different from yesterday is that I had the laptop plugged into AC power because it needed charging. I have no idea if this resulted in more stable DC power to the mic.
> 
> 
> So I have results now (hooray) but I encountered a different issue: the results show a severe drop off in response beyond 10kHz. Here is the center channel as an example:
> 
> 
> From summer 2010
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason why I wanted to re-run ARC is that I have replaced some of my speakers, my fronts and rear surrounds are now Elac FS127s. They have an unusual configuration in that the tweeters are ported to the rear:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have read about some users seeing a similar problem with certain B&W speakers but this drop off is evident on ALL speakers, not just the Elacs. Center and side surrounds exhibit the same drop.
> 
> 
> The speakers are fine, and I have done nothing to the room itself since I ran ARC before the summer - at that time there was no drop off. I wonder if the mic really is marginal?



Tom do you remember which B&W speakers were giving ARC issues as I am contemplating buying a pair. Thank you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/19580006
> 
> 
> This is witchcraft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried running it today with the newly formatted Vista laptop. Did not work at all. Kept getting "failed to initialize Wave capture device".
> 
> 
> Went back to my Windows 7/64 machine and now suddenly it worked. The only thing different from yesterday is that I had the laptop plugged into AC power because it needed charging. I have no idea if this resulted in more stable DC power to the mic.
> 
> 
> So I have results now (hooray) but I encountered a different issue: the results show a severe drop off in response beyond 10kHz. Here is the center channel as an example:
> 
> 
> . . .
> 
> 
> The reason why I wanted to re-run ARC is that I have replaced some of my speakers, my fronts and rear surrounds are now Elac FS127s. They have an unusual configuration in that the tweeters are ported to the rear:
> 
> 
> . . .
> 
> 
> I have read about some users seeing a similar problem with certain B&W speakers but this drop off is evident on ALL speakers, not just the Elacs. Center and side surrounds exhibit the same drop.
> 
> 
> The speakers are fine, and I have done nothing to the room itself since I ran ARC before the summer - at that time there was no drop off. I wonder if the mic really is marginal?



If you are getting the same shape curve on *ALL* speakers above 6KHz I think you have a failed microphone. You are recording no treble output at all. For this to NOT be a microphone failure you'd have to assume the tweeters blew out on all your speakers or that you failed to wire the treble inputs on all your speakers. (And even THEN you'd likely get some leakage up there from the mid-range driver.)


What you are showing is nothing at all like what some B&W speaker owners have posted as a modest dip near 10KHz.


If, on the other hand, you are getting reasonable (albeit not perfect) treble measurement on at least one speaker, then that pretty much eliminates the mic as the cause. (This is why it is really helpful if folks post the full set of charts instead of just a sample of a speaker chart that looks weird.)


As to your result with the laptop plugged in vs. on batteries, that is not all that surprising. Many laptops operate differently when on batteries unless you can turn off their power saving functions. For example, the laptop may switch the processor to run slower, or shut down the disc drive. And this can happen at times you can't control, such as just when ARC is receiving mic data.


I suppose its even possible the laptop decided it no longer had to provide full power on that USB socket.


Of course if your mic has failed, that would be the most likely explanation of all the headaches you've had this time with both computers you tried.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong

I need a USB cable. What is the size of the usb cable connecting to the mic? Is that called usb A or B?

Thanks,


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19582410
> 
> 
> I need a USB cable. What is the size of the usb cable connecting to the mic? Is that called usb A or B?
> 
> Thanks,



But this cable comes with the ARC kit you get with the D2v/AVM50v purchase...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19582410
> 
> 
> I need a USB cable. What is the size of the usb cable connecting to the mic? Is that called usb A or B?
> 
> Thanks,



It's not a B. It might be a "mini-B", or even a "micro-A" or "micro-B". See the plug shape outlines in this article (scroll down a bit):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus 


If you can't figure it out from that picture and the existing cable, you should probably call Anthem to confirm.

--Bob


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19582354
> 
> 
> If you are getting the same shape curve on *ALL* speakers above 6KHz I think you have a failed microphone.



All speakers except the sub have the same shape curve. I did not post the entire chart, didn't want to make another long post.


I will email the charts to Anthem support and see what they say.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/19582959
> 
> 
> All speakers except the sub have the same shape curve. I did not post the entire chart, didn't want to make another long post.
> 
> 
> I will email the charts to Anthem support and see what they say.



Even better, email your ARC results file to Anthem. They have tools that can extract the raw data from that file and will be able to see more than screen captures of the charts will show them.


--------------------------------------


Also, if you use the Manage Attachments feature when posting here (found below the box where you type in text) you can upload your chart images to AVS and they will show in your post as thumbnail links so you don't end up with a lengthy post due to in-line pictures.


You can Upload 3 images, and then it will let you Upload 2 more. The images are stored here at AVS so you don't need to host them on your computer or a hosting service after you've posted.


You can use Preview Post to check that it has all worked prior to submitting your post.

--Bob


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19582727
> 
> 
> It's not a B. It might be a "mini-B", or even a "micro-A" or "micro-B". See the plug shape outlines in this article (scroll down a bit):
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
> 
> 
> If you can't figure it out from that picture and the existing cable, you should probably call Anthem to confirm.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob as always.


----------



## rovingtravler

Just spoke to Anthem about HDMI 1.4


They would give me a date, but this is what they said "The AVM50v and D2v will both have an HDMI update to support 3D content early next year."


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/19574800
> 
> 
> There is absolutely no interfering noise from anywhere. I even increased the test tone level by 10dB - it is now so loud that I almost cannot be in the room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess the mic may be flaky - will see what Anthem support comes back with.



I had this happen recently when someone was walking around above the theater. But as you say there is no extraneous noise.


On the volume - in my experience, it SHOULD be too loud! I have to wear earplugs when I do an ARC run. Either my hearing is unusually sensitive or a lot of folks listened to way too much rock and roll in their youth.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/19583770
> 
> 
> I had this happen recently when someone was walking around above the theater. But as you say there is no extraneous noise.
> 
> 
> On the volume - in my experience, it SHOULD be too loud! I have to wear earplugs when I do an ARC run. Either my hearing is unusually sensitive or a lot of folks listened to way too much rock and roll in their youth.



The sweep tones really shouldn't be all that loud. If you've gone through the exercise of setting Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level beforehand, they should be loudish, but not out of line with loud movie tracks. ARC can hear everything it needs to hear with sweep tones running in the 70 to 85dB range.


Now all the speaker volume trims get zeroed out prior to ARC running the sweep tones (happens automatically), so if you have any speakers that need a large, negative volume trim, then of course those speakers will sound louder when playing their sweep tones.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19582410
> 
> 
> I need a USB cable. What is the size of the usb cable connecting to the mic? Is that called usb A or B?
> 
> Thanks,



It is a USB 2.0 A Male to Mini-B 5-pin Male.

I ordered a 15' one from MonoPrice for less than $5, shipping included. MonoPrice product ID: 5450.

I have used it twice and it works great. No glitches during the ARC procedure.


As Bob mentioned in an earlier post, if you are having problems during the ARC reading or upload it may be because of your firewall interfering with the measurements.

Since I have been turning off my firewall during ARC I have had no re-occurrences of the problems I was having--- the sweeps would get stuck on one speaker and continue for a long long, time or until I aborted the measurement,and sometimes the upload would fail during the speaker level upload.


I think turning off the firewall and keeping my laptop plugged in during the ARC run has had more to do with the glitch-free ARC runs than the new cable, but the cable is at least as good quality as the original ARC cable from Anthem. And cheap.


Tom


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19571965
> 
> 
> I agree about the amps. My A5 is a work horse and the build quality along with the tightly controlled spec. sheets is second to none. When tested by CSA labs it was so good at full power they were shocked(no pun intended) no other amps they had tested had performed at that level. So you are quite correct Milt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I will try the 2K correction just for fun.
> 
> John



This is how it went:


The test lab person asked for how long a P5 (not A5 but that doesn't change anything about an A5) could be run at its max published specs. I said all day. He said he'd never seen that before, at least in receivers which always shut down before he could take readings.


Side topic, in those days instant experts sometimes sent flak our way for holding line voltage to 120V during power amp tests.* That's what test labs do too, using automatic rack-mounted variacs, so test conditions are the same everywhere. Measurements made in someone's house with arbitrary resistive loss in the wiring that's powering the system at unknown time of day (the utility varies it according to grid load) just isn't consistent.


*problem was solved by deleting "line voltage held to 120V" from our spec pages... the sentence not the standard method.


(and this year we had to work with CSA on test method for Sub 2... the standards weren't set up for such a monster.)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19584184
> 
> 
> (and this year we had to work with CSA on test method for Sub 2... the standards weren't set up for such a monster.)



Give USGS a call. They have all sorts of guidelines for taking quality seismic readings.









--Bob


----------



## uberanalyst

I'm hoping this is from "operator error" on my part, but I have a problem while playing multichannel DVD-Audio and SACD discs.


In particular, while my Anthem Statement D2 (running 1.47f) receives 5.1 LPCM from an Oppo player just fine, the Anthem won't let me apply *any* surround processing, such as Dolby ProLogic IIx Music. Any time I try to apply surround processing, the D2 display simply says "6 CHANNEL INPUT" followed by "None" (i.e., no surround processing). It doesn't matter whether I try and apply surround processing via the Mode button vs. defining 6-channel preferences in the D2 setup menus, the result is "None." The Anthem indicates that it's receiving 44.1 KHz PCM on 5.1 channels.


The result is that I get no sound out of my rear surrounds (I have a 7.1 speaker configuration). I have no way of converting 5.1 into 7.1 when playing DVD-A or SACD discs.


Strangely, this doesn't happen with Blu-ray or DVD-Video discs, which let me apply Dolby ProLogic IIx Movie, Music, Matrix, etc. to 5.1 sources. I don't understand why the Anthem differentiates between different 5.1 LPCM sources that all come from the same Oppo player.


Anyone have suggestions on why the D2 won't let me apply surround processing to 6-channel data from SACDs or DVD-Audio discs (only), or how to fix this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well there are 2 puzzles here because I believe you should be receiving 88.2KHz LPCM when playing SACD discs. I was about to tell you the D2 can distinguish SACD that way, but then you reported you were receiving 44.1 KHz.


------------------------------------


Check the input video resolution from the Oppo and make sure it is 720p or higher.


In the D2, confirm that THX is OFF (press the THX button once to see).


If neither of those gives you an easy answer, you'll need to ask Anthem tech support. The processor in the D2 does have some limitations on what processing can be applied to certain input formats, but I don't recall this as being one of them.

--Bob


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19584862
> 
> 
> Well there are 2 puzzles here because I believe you should be receiving 88.2KHz LPCM when playing SACD discs. I was about to tell you the D2 can distinguish SACD that way, but then you reported you were receiving 44.1 KHz.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Check the input video resolution from the Oppo and make sure it is 720p or higher.
> 
> 
> In the D2, confirm that THX is OFF (press the THX button once to see).
> 
> 
> If neither of those gives you an easy answer, you'll need to ask Anthem tech support. The processor in the D2 does have some limitations on what processing can be applied to certain input formats, but I don't recall this as being one of them.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks for the quick response.


Maybe this is somehow related to the Oppo BDP-93 still running pre-release software, but it only ever seems to put out 44.1 kHz for PCM, even for SACDs.


The Oppo is delivering 1080p to my D2 with THX confirmed "off." So it looks like I may need to contact Anthem tech support to determine why I only get "6 CHANNEL INPUT None" -- no surround processing allowed on 5.1 LPCM data from SACDs and DVD-Audio discs.


----------



## dknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19259223
> 
> 
> I am able to get the 3D games from the PS3 to go through my D2 but I have to manually set the tv into 3D mode. I did have to make a direct connection initially and run through the display setup so that the PS3 knew that there was a 3D TV. I then disconnected and ran the HDMI through the D2.
> 
> 
> I have not been able to get 3D movies to work. I can connect it direct and use optical for the audio into the D2. Since the PS3 does not at this time support the lossless audio this isn't a problem.



I know this is an old post but I was wondering if this is still the case with the D2 and the PS3 for 3D? I am aware of the audio limitations for 3D BluRays via PS3 (which I'm willing to live with) - my main question is if it will even work or if I'll have to go directly to my projector and bypass the D2?


Thanks.


-David


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19583942
> 
> 
> It is a USB 2.0 A Male to Mini-B 5-pin Male.
> 
> I ordered a 15' one from MonoPrice for less than $5, shipping included. MonoPrice product ID: 5450.
> 
> I have used it twice and it works great. No glitches during the ARC procedure.
> 
> 
> As Bob mentioned in an earlier post, if you are having problems during the ARC reading or upload it may be because of your firewall interfering with the measurements.
> 
> Since I have been turning off my firewall during ARC I have had no re-occurrences of the problems I was having--- the sweeps would get stuck on one speaker and continue for a long long, time or until I aborted the measurement,and sometimes the upload would fail during the speaker level upload.
> 
> 
> I think turning off the firewall and keeping my laptop plugged in during the ARC run has had more to do with the glitch-free ARC runs than the new cable, but the cable is at least as good quality as the original ARC cable from Anthem. And cheap.
> 
> 
> Tom



Thanks tngiloy. I appreciate it.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dknight* /forum/post/19587953
> 
> 
> I know this is an old post but I was wondering if this is still the case with the D2 and the PS3 for 3D? I am aware of the audio limitations for 3D BluRays via PS3 (which I'm willing to live with) - my main question is if it will even work or if I'll have to go directly to my projector and bypass the D2?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> -David



I can get the ps3 to play 3D games through the D2 by setting the TV to 3D mode manually but I can't get it to play a 3D movie without going direct. I thought about trying it direct until get its going then switching but that doesn't seem like it would make things any easier. I think a movie does an initial query to see it it's 3D then goes ahead and plays.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* 
Bob, thanks for the quick response.


Maybe this is somehow related to the Oppo BDP-93 still running pre-release software, but it only ever seems to put out 44.1 kHz for PCM, even for SACDs.


The Oppo is delivering 1080p to my D2 with THX confirmed "off." So it looks like I may need to contact Anthem tech support to determine why I only get "6 CHANNEL INPUT None" -- no surround processing allowed on 5.1 LPCM data from SACDs and DVD-Audio discs.
Well it's been a long time since I had a D2, but on my D2v the Oppo BDP-93 sends 88.2KHz LPCM when playing SACD discs, and I don't recall the D2 being different in this regard. Be sure you have SACD Output PCM set in the Oppo.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Shrike645* 
I can get the ps3 to play 3D games through the D2 by setting the TV to 3D mode manually but I can't get it to play a 3D movie without going direct. I thought about trying it direct until get its going then switching but that doesn't seem like it would make things any easier. I think a movie does an initial query to see it it's 3D then goes ahead and plays.
It's barely possible you may be able to finesse this with something like the Geffen HDMI Detective which should let you capture the EDID info from the display and then insert that between the PS3 and the D2. I don't know if the Geffen product can capture the 3D status yet, and of course you'd have the other problem that the display's EDID will only have limited audio input options. But that last MIGHT not be a problem since the PS3 has limited audio output ANYWAY for 3D. Trying a hack like this with "real" 3D players would certainly mean you lose high bandwidth audio options.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
Well there are 2 puzzles here because I believe you should be receiving 88.2KHz LPCM when playing SACD discs. I was about to tell you the D2 can distinguish SACD that way, but then you reported you were receiving 44.1 KHz.


------------------------------------


Check the input video resolution from the Oppo and make sure it is 720p or higher.


In the D2, confirm that THX is OFF (press the THX button once to see).


If neither of those gives you an easy answer, you'll need to ask Anthem tech support. The processor in the D2 does have some limitations on what processing can be applied to certain input formats, but I don't recall this as being one of them.

--Bob


What should the D2 input be saying about PCM from blu ray (ps3)? For me, the D2 has always said 44.1khz pcm "6 CHANNEL INPUT" followed by "None"for blue ray disc when receiving DOLBY HD or DTS HDMA via PCM from the ps3. Is that correct? Never seen it higher. And you can not apply any other surround settings other than THX


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* 
What should the D2 input be saying about PCM from blu ray (ps3)? For me, the D2 has always said 44.1khz pcm "6 CHANNEL INPUT" followed by "None"for blue ray disc when receiving DOLBY HD or DTS HDMA via PCM from the ps3. Is that correct? Never seen it higher. And you can not apply any other surround settings other than THX
For the D2, the PS3 should be able to output up to 96KHz 5.1 LPCM to the D2. Now the vast majority of Blu-Ray discs, even those with TrueHD or DTS-HD MA tracks, have only 48KHz tracks as that's what's used for the studio masters. The higher sampling rates are typically only going to be found on music Blu-Rays.


You can use the AIX audio calibration Blu-Ray to try some 96KHz stuff, and Acoustic Reality and 2L also put out high rate music Blu-Rays.


Check the HDMI audio setup in your PS3. The automatic setup offered by the PS3 (which you can redo at any time) should leave all the options up to and including 96KHz 5.1 check marked for the D2 (192KHz 7.1 for the D2v).


Also be aware that if you only have 5.1 speakers, then the Anthems will not offer any surround sound processing modes for 5.1 audio input because there's no work for them to do. I.e., you don't have any rear speakers for them to generate sound for.


(Surround sound processes raise a smaller number of input channels to a larger number of speakers for output. THX is an audio post process, not a surround sound process, so it's available regardless.)

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

BTW.. for those who have the ps3's new software Netflix upgrade are in for a treat. Netflix on the ps3 combined with the D2 or D2V2 is now a very nice, convenient movie streaming alternative.


Prior to the recent update I found netflix streaming to be very sub par to blu ray disks. With the recent update on the PS3 it has now gotten much closer and now watchable for me.


Check it out if you have not yet. Another +1 for the age defying, resilient PS3


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> BTW.. for those who have the ps3's new software Netflix upgrade are in for a treat. Netflix on the ps3 combined with the D2 or D2V2 is now a very nice, convenient movie streaming alternative.
> 
> 
> Prior to the recent update I found netflix streaming to be very sub par to blu ray disks. With the recent update on the PS3 it has now gotten much closer and now watchable for me.
> 
> 
> Check it out if you have not yet. Another +1 for the age defying, resilient PS3



I tried netflix at my brothers in Binghamton and found the quality to be less than an SD movie. Have you found it is better now?

John


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19590079
> 
> 
> I tried netflix at my brothers in Binghamton and found the quality to be less than an SD movie. Have you found it is better now?
> 
> John



First i think you need a good high quality, high speed net connection. I would hardwire your ps3 or if hooked up wireless then have it very close to your router. IF you have that and the movie is offered in an hd stream it willl stream at 1080i or 1080p - this is indicated as x-high hd when you hit the info button on the ps3. Looks really good.


While stereo pcm sound great through the d2 they also now stream in ddigital 5.1 on select movies as well


----------



## NOCAL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19589984
> 
> 
> BTW.. for those who have the ps3's new software Netflix upgrade are in for a treat. Netflix on the ps3 combined with the D2 or D2V2 is now a very nice, convenient movie streaming alternative.
> 
> 
> Prior to the recent update I found netflix streaming to be very sub par to blu ray disks. With the recent update on the PS3 it has now gotten much closer and now watchable for me.
> 
> 
> Check it out if you have not yet. Another +1 for the age defying, resilient PS3




Netflix streaming Will be sub par to Blu-ray. For it to "compare" to SD you need a download speed of at 3Mb/s. The standard 1.5 Mb/s that most people get will result in a fuzzy and pixelated image. To render SD quality will require a 5Mb/s download speed. If you are using wi-fi in the home use a router that delivers in the "N" band.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NOCAL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Netflix streaming Will be sub par to Blu-ray. For it to "compare" to SD you need a download speed of at 3Mb/s. The standard 1.5 Mb/s that most people get will result in a fuzzy and pixelated image. To render SD quality will require a 5Mb/s download speed. If you are using wi-fi in the home use a router that delivers in the "N" band.



I have a high speed N router, with PS3 hooked up wireless. Might give it a try since they have a free trial for their Canadian customers.

Thanks guys for the info.,

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/19584527
> 
> 
> I'm hoping this is from "operator error" on my part, but I have a problem while playing multichannel DVD-Audio and SACD discs.
> 
> 
> In particular, while my Anthem Statement D2 (running 1.47f) receives 5.1 LPCM from an Oppo player just fine, the Anthem won't let me apply *any* surround processing, such as Dolby ProLogic IIx Music. Any time I try to apply surround processing, the D2 display simply says "6 CHANNEL INPUT" followed by "None" (i.e., no surround processing). It doesn't matter whether I try and apply surround processing via the Mode button vs. defining 6-channel preferences in the D2 setup menus, the result is "None." The Anthem indicates that it's receiving 44.1 KHz PCM on 5.1 channels.
> 
> 
> The result is that I get no sound out of my rear surrounds (I have a 7.1 speaker configuration). I have no way of converting 5.1 into 7.1 when playing DVD-A or SACD discs.
> 
> 
> Strangely, this doesn't happen with Blu-ray or DVD-Video discs, which let me apply Dolby ProLogic IIx Movie, Music, Matrix, etc. to 5.1 sources. I don't understand why the Anthem differentiates between different 5.1 LPCM sources that all come from the same Oppo player.
> 
> 
> Anyone have suggestions on why the D2 won't let me apply surround processing to 6-channel data from SACDs or DVD-Audio discs (only), or how to fix this?




For as long as I've had my D2 I was never able to get it to play more than 5.1 for sacd or dvd-a. I got the same '6 channel input--none' message you are geting using many Anthem different firmwares and different disc players.

I also could not get it any 7.1 mode. I tried setting it to 'copy surrounds to rears' in the D2 setup menu, but it still only played in 5.1. I have switched to a 5.1 system now so I can't check, but if I remember right I could reverse the surrounds and rears, but I know for sure I could never get 7.1. I have tried it over the years with different multi disc players from Oppo and Denon. I've tried it using the '6 ch in' analog connections and hdmi into the D2.

Never more than 5.1--'6 channel input--none'

I don't know if this is a setting Anthem has chosen for sacd and dvd-a, or if its something that the sacd and dvd-a people have chosen. But its not your settings-- its the way it is , at least with the D2.


But when I had my oppo 83 the D2 would show that it was receiving 88.2 khz and 96 khz from sacd's and dvd-a's.

Now with my oppo 93 it shows 48 khz in for both sacd and dvd-a.



I am running a D2 with v1.47f now.

I honestly can't remember if I ever checked the sample rate between the oppo 83 and the D2 with v1.47f. I know I checked it with v1.33 and probably with many of the Anthem firmwares before that, and it was always 88.2 or 96 khz.
*Its interesting that your getting 44.1 and I'm getting 48 khz.*


Which oppo are you using?

If you are using the 93 I would think that it has something to do with the oppo 93's firmware. If you are using the oppo 980h or 83, then the problem may be with v1.47f.



Tom


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19588811
> 
> 
> Well it's been a long time since I had a D2, but on my D2v the Oppo BDP-93 sends 88.2KHz LPCM when playing SACD discs, and I don't recall the D2 being different in this regard. Be sure you have SACD Output PCM set in the Oppo.
> 
> --Bob



Well, I see you are able to get 88.2 khz to your D2v.

But since you are running newer firmware in your 93 than we are I can't be sure if its in the D2 v1.47f or the oppo official pre-release firmware.


Bob, did you check the sample rate with the oppo 1108 firmware or just the new beta one you are using now?


Uberanalyst, are you an oppo beta tester or just one of the pre-release buyers?

If you are 'pre-release' then we may be able to narrow it down to the oppo 93 firmware or v1.47f.


Curious







I still don't know why your would show 44.1 and mine 48khz. Both are wrong, but they should be the _same wrong_.


Tom


----------



## |M|B.M.F.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NOCAL* /forum/post/19590496
> 
> 
> Netflix streaming Will be sub par to Blu-ray. For it to "compare" to SD you need a download speed of at 3Mb/s. The standard 1.5 Mb/s that most people get will result in a fuzzy and pixelated image. To render SD quality will require a 5Mb/s download speed. If you are using wi-fi in the home use a router that delivers in the "N" band.



To clarify...


I have 50mb download. My ps3 is hooked up to my netgear n gigabit router and the ps3 is hardwired. With this type of configuration and viewing a movie from netflix via the ps3 in "x hi HD" mode it will look very close to blue ray quality. I believe x hi mode is being streamed in 1080p - at the minimum 1080i. This is not to be confused with Netflix other modes. They have three levels within the HD stream and I believe three in the SD mode. Most of their movies are streamed in SD mode.... so watch for that when evaluating. Wireless connections can also greatly effect the quality of the stream.


It is not 1080P 24 blue ray but it is pretty darn close. It is very watchable. Prior to this I have always waited for the blu ray disk version of the movie to be delivered. Now I will likely watch movies that are not on my "A" list that I normally would have waited to watch on blu ray.


Oh also, my netlflix experience is being viewed on a 50 inch plasma. I have not tried it on my big big drop down screen... i will have to do that and see if it still is watchable.


enjoy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19591518
> 
> 
> Well, I see you are able to get 88.2 khz to your D2v.
> 
> But since you are running newer firmware in your 93 than we are I can't be sure if its in the D2 v1.47f or the oppo official pre-release firmware.
> 
> 
> Bob, did you check the sample rate with the oppo 1108 firmware or just the new beta one you are using now?
> 
> 
> Uberanalyst, are you an oppo beta tester or just one of the pre-release buyers?
> 
> If you are 'pre-release' then we may be able to narrow it down to the oppo 93 firmware or v1.47f.
> 
> 
> Curious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still don't know why your would show 44.1 and mine 48khz. Both are wrong, but they should be the _same wrong_.
> 
> 
> Tom



Yes, I checked SACD PCM from the 93 with the 1108 firmware. The D2v reported 88.2KHz input.

--Bob


----------



## jpoet

I have been happily using a Universal Remove MX-850 for years. I decided to get a Harmony One because of Universal Remotes policy of not allowing customers to program their own remotes (I have the software to do it myself with the MX-850, but would have to get it somehow for a new model).


Anyway, I must be doing something wrong with the Harmony setup, because most of the hard buttons on the Harmony don't do anything (for example, the 7 key to bring up the video processing menu). I am telling the Harmony software that I have a "A/V Receiver | Anthem | Statement D2". I also tried the telling it I had a D2v, but if anything that was worse.


So, can someone tell me the correct "device" to tell the Harmony software to use, to get the remote's buttons setup correctly?


Thanks,


John


P.S. I should have my D2v on Monday


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You will probably have to get Harmony tech support to massage your configuration for the Anthem "device". They need to set certain buttons to react differently if they are pressed and held. The choices are to do nothing special (most buttons), to send repeated commands (e.g., the volume buttons), or to send a LONG command (what you want the "7" to do). I don't know why they don't have that as the default for the Anthem already.

--Bob


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19582354
> 
> 
> If you are getting the same shape curve on *ALL* speakers above 6KHz I think you have a failed microphone. You are recording no treble output at all. For this to NOT be a microphone failure you'd have to assume the tweeters blew out on all your speakers or that you failed to wire the treble inputs on all your speakers. (And even THEN you'd likely get some leakage up there from the mid-range driver.)
> 
> 
> What you are showing is nothing at all like what some B&W speaker owners have posted as a modest dip near 10KHz.
> 
> --Bob



Andrew at Anthem asked me to do a quick measure and send over the screenshots to them. They will send a new microphone over if that looks to be the cause.


I won't be hearing from them until probably Tuesday so I thought I'd post the screenshots from the quick measure to see if anyone has any comments. They look really strange to me and certainly looks like the mic is picking up nothing above 500 Hz (!!) and I am also quite sure the levels are wrong.


I can guarantee that I don't have 7 speakers failing n the exact same way at the same time. And they all sound great when playing music anyway.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/19592404
> 
> 
> Andrew at Anthem asked me to do a quick measure and send over the screenshots to them. They will send a new microphone over if that looks to be the cause.
> 
> 
> I won't be hearing from them until probably Tuesday so I thought I'd post the screenshots from the quick measure to see if anyone has any comments. They look really strange to me and certainly looks like the mic is picking up nothing above 500 Hz (!!) and I am also quite sure the levels are wrong.
> 
> 
> I can guarantee that I don't have 7 speakers failing n the exact same way at the same time. And they all sound great when playing music anyway.



It definitely looks like your mic is bad. Hopefully, that's it. That will be a no cost to you fix.


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19591518
> 
> 
> Well, I see you are able to get 88.2 khz to your D2v.
> 
> But since you are running newer firmware in your 93 than we are I can't be sure if its in the D2 v1.47f or the oppo official pre-release firmware.
> 
> 
> Bob, did you check the sample rate with the oppo 1108 firmware or just the new beta one you are using now?
> 
> 
> Uberanalyst, are you an oppo beta tester or just one of the pre-release buyers?
> 
> If you are 'pre-release' then we may be able to narrow it down to the oppo 93 firmware or v1.47f.
> 
> 
> Curious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still don't know why your would show 44.1 and mine 48khz. Both are wrong, but they should be the _same wrong_.
> 
> 
> Tom



Wow -- so now we've found at least 3 of us who find we can't apply any surround processing to DVD-Audio and SACD discs on a D2 running 1.47f -- all we get is "6 CHANNEL INPUT None." This would obviously seem to be an Anthem bug for D2 owners trying to process 5.1 for 7.1 speakers.


Tom: I'm a pre-release owner of an Oppo BDP-93, not a beta tester. But I do find it strange that your D2 shows it receiving 48 KHz while my D2 always shows it receiving 44.1 KHz. If you read the post from M.B.M.F. above, his experience seems to match mine, i.e., receiving 44.1 KHz and "6 CHANNEL INPUT None."


- Dave


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst* /forum/post/19592843
> 
> 
> Wow -- so now we've found at least 3 of us who find we can't apply any surround processing to DVD-Audio and SACD discs on a D2 running 1.47f -- all we get is "6 CHANNEL INPUT None." This would obviously seem to be an Anthem bug for D2 owners trying to process 5.1 for 7.1 speakers.
> 
> 
> Tom: I'm a pre-release owner of an Oppo BDP-93, not a beta tester. But I do find it strange that your D2 shows it receiving 48 KHz while my D2 always shows it receiving 44.1 KHz. If you read the post from M.B.M.F. above, his experience seems to match mine, i.e., receiving 44.1 KHz and "6 CHANNEL INPUT None."
> 
> 
> - Dave



How are you connected from 93 to D2?


I am running the oppo 93's hdmi1 to my TV, and hdmi2 to the D2.



Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Andrew at Anthem asked me to do a quick measure and send over the screenshots to them. They will send a new microphone over if that looks to be the cause.
> 
> 
> I won't be hearing from them until probably Tuesday so I thought I'd post the screenshots from the quick measure to see if anyone has any comments. They look really strange to me and certainly looks like the mic is picking up nothing above 500 Hz (!!) and I am also quite sure the levels are wrong.
> 
> 
> I can guarantee that I don't have 7 speakers failing n the exact same way at the same time. And they all sound great when playing music anyway.



Good lord! 120dB at 50 Hz? Do you live next to a jet runway?










Yes your mic looks bad.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Could someone with a D2 running v1.33 firmware see what sample rate the D2 is receiving when playing SACD and DVD-A discs on either an Oppo 83 or 93? 41.1/48/88.2/96 khz??


Please post or pm me.


Thanks,

Tom


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19592922
> 
> 
> How are you connected from 93 to D2?
> 
> I am running the oppo 93's hdmi1 to my TV, and hdmi2 to the D2.
> 
> 
> Tom



Can the new oppo 93 really send 2 different encoding on the 2 hdmi ?

For example if you had a vga 640x480 on hdmi1 and hdtv 1080px60 on hdmi2, do you get 2 different pictures and audio ?

You should try just plugin hdmi1 to the D2 and nothing to hdmi2 and see if you got better audio stream, it could be your tv that is interfering with what the oppo send to the D2.


----------



## tngiloy

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tranle* 
Can the new oppo 93 really send 2 different encoding on the 2 hdmi ?

For example if you had a vga 640x480 on hdmi1 and hdtv 1080px60 on hdmi2, do you get 2 different pictures and audio ?

You sho uld try just plugin hdmi1 to the D2 and nothing to hdmi2 and see if you got better audio stream, it could be your tv that is interfering with what the oppo send to the D2.


There is an 'auto' setting on the 'output resolution' setup on the oppo 93 that will display the optimum resolution for the display it is connected to.

I don't know whether it can send different resolutions to different displays.

Bob or some of the beta testers on the oppo 93 AVS thread might be able to answer that.

The people at oppo customer service would be able to answer that for you.


There are separate 'color space' and 'deep color' settings for both hdmi1 and hdmi2 out of the oppo 93.



The hdmi1 out of the oppo is powered by the better video chip and is meant to be connected directly to a display, or to a hdmi v1.3 with pass thru.

The hdmi audio is (should be) the same out of hdmi1 or 2.

I am actually getting a higher sampling rate out of hdmi2 than uberanalyst and MBMF are getting--48khz vs 41.1khz. *I don't know which hdmi out that they are using out of the oppo.*

The lossless audio from blurays is being sent OK at 48khz from the oppo to the D2. It is sacd and dvd-a that isn't being sent correctly at 88.2 or 96khz.


With the oppo 83 there was a lot of firmware work to get the sacd and dvd-a audio right. It may be a problem with the oppo 93 firmware.

It could also be a problem with the D2 v1.47f firmware.

*Thats why I am asking for D2/oppo 93 owners running v1.33 to let me know what your audio sample rate is showing when playing sacd or dvd-a discs.* Please.


Tom


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *|M|B.M.F.* /forum/post/19591574
> 
> 
> To clarify...
> 
> 
> I have 50mb download. My ps3 is hooked up to my netgear n gigabit router and the ps3 is hardwired. With this type of configuration and viewing a movie from netflix via the ps3 in "x hi HD" mode it will look very close to blue ray quality. I believe x hi mode is being streamed in 1080p - at the minimum 1080i. This is not to be confused with Netflix other modes. They have three levels within the HD stream and I believe three in the SD mode. Most of their movies are streamed in SD mode.... so watch for that when evaluating. Wireless connections can also greatly effect the quality of the stream.
> 
> 
> It is not 1080P 24 blue ray but it is pretty darn close. It is very watchable. Prior to this I have always waited for the blu ray disk version of the movie to be delivered. Now I will likely watch movies that are not on my "A" list that I normally would have waited to watch on blu ray.
> 
> 
> Oh also, my netlflix experience is being viewed on a 50 inch plasma. I have not tried it on my big big drop down screen... i will have to do that and see if it still is watchable.
> 
> 
> enjoy



It's 1080i and Dolby Digital.

Sorry to pollute this thread any more than I already do, but this is a very sore subject as NetFlix is _deleting_ Blu-ray inventory and replacing it with their pseudo-def streaming crap.


After 10 years with NF, I'm done.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't believe anybody likes what Netflix is doing re Blu-Rays, but there is a whole thread over in the Blu-Ray forums for folks to pound on them.

--Bob


----------



## xMEATx

If I set two different arc settings, movie and music, how do I apply the music calculations to my music sources? Or does it apply the music calculations to all inputs that consist of two channels automatically? Thanks again for taking the time to help a true novice.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I set two different arc settings, movie and music, how do I apply the music calculations to my music sources? Or does it apply the music calculations to all inputs that consist of two channels automatically? Thanks again for taking the time to help a true novice.



Setup > Source Setup > (each source) > Bass Management


Movie or Music or a 3rd choice that uses Music only when an LFE channel is not present.

--Bob


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Setup > Source Setup > (each source) > Bass Management
> 
> 
> Movie or Music or a 3rd choice that uses Music only when an LFE channel is not present.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, got it. Thanks again.


----------



## buckley44

As far as watching 3d movies from a projector going into the d2 is there anything i need to do as far as the d2 goes for set up?

Also i only have 1 hdmi out so i guess i will have to use a splitter for the hdmi going to the projector? any drawbacks to this. this is my first projector.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19596837
> 
> 
> As far as watching 3d movies from a projector going into the d2 is there anything i need to do as far as the d2 goes for set up?
> 
> Also i only have 1 hdmi out so i guess i will have to use a splitter for the hdmi going to the projector? any drawbacks to this. this is my first projector.



Your best bet is to get a Blu-Ray player with 2 HDMI outputs (e.g., the upcoming Oppo BDP-93). Connect one directly to your projector for video and the other to your D2 for audio.


The problem with trying to split one HDMI connection prior to the D2 is that the handshake information from the projector and from the D2 will be different -- for example the D2 will say it can't accept 3D video. So what is the player to do on its one output? You would need some sort of intelligent splitter to conceal this difference. These are probably going to be made by folks like Geffen but who knows what gotchas they'll come with?

--Bob


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19592043
> 
> 
> You will probably have to get Harmony tech support to massage your configuration for the Anthem "device". They need to set certain buttons to react differently if they are pressed and held. The choices are to do nothing special (most buttons), to send repeated commands (e.g., the volume buttons), or to send a LONG command (what you want the "7" to do). I don't know why they don't have that as the default for the Anthem already.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. I have contacted Logitech about it. Hopefully they will respond in a timely fashion.



John.


----------



## Kensmith48

I have a D2 with v1.47f. I have a usb cable with the Keyspan adapter to a RS232 cable and into the D2. Typical ARC setup.

My question: Is it possible to re-upload the 1.47f program into the D2 with this setup or do I have to use a RS232 cable only? I ask because my laptop doesn't have rs232 so I have to take my D2 out of the rack and hook it up to my desktop which is alot of work.

TIA,

Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a D2 with v1.47f. I have a usb cable with the Keyspan adapter to a RS232 cable and into the D2. Typical ARC setup.
> 
> My question: Is it possible to re-upload the 1.47f program into the D2 with this setup or do I have to use a RS232 cable only? I ask because my laptop doesn't have rs232 so I have to take my D2 out of the rack and hook it up to my desktop which is alot of work.
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Ken



Yes, your Windows ARC cabling should work fine for a firmware install. Just be sure to follow the extra steps for firmware installs: Reload Factory Defaults and remove wall power from your HDMI Source devices and Display.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/19598771
> 
> 
> I have a D2 with v1.47f. I have a usb cable with the Keyspan adapter to a RS232 cable and into the D2. Typical ARC setup.
> 
> My question: Is it possible to re-upload the 1.47f program into the D2 with this setup or do I have to use a RS232 cable only? I ask because my laptop doesn't have rs232 so I have to take my D2 out of the rack and hook it up to my desktop which is alot of work.
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Ken



Yes.

I imagine most of us don't have a serial connector on our laptops. I have done most of my firmware updates with the Keyspan to serial cable combo.


Just be sure to remove your hdmi cables from the D2 and save your settings.

You should also back up video settings with LiveVideoSettingsEditor and can back up your D2 settings with the Settings Backup program.

Then just follow the Anthem v1.47f on screen instructions.


Just out of curiosity, why are you doing a reload?


Tom


edit- Bob beat me. I'll have to learn to type faster!


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks guys,

I thought it should be possible but thought I'd check 1st.

Tom,

I thought I'd ask for future firmware installs. It seems like everytime I lose power I have to re-istall the firmware. I have everything connected to a Panamax surge suppressor and I have a trigger connected from the Panamax to the D2 to control the ATI amps. If I shut things down accidently in a different sequence I get an unsafe power from the Panamax. The only way to re-set it is to unplug the Panamax. When I unplug it it screws up the D2 and I have to do a re-install. The last time it happened I turned the D2 off in the front and then set the rear switch to off and then I unplugged it from the Panamax. I then unplugged the Panamax, waited for 30 sec. and then plugged everything back in and turned on the D2. This seemed to work ok. Keep my fingers crossed.

Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/19599119
> 
> 
> Thanks guys,
> 
> I thought it should be possible but thought I'd check 1st.
> 
> Tom,
> 
> I thought I'd ask for future firmware installs. It seems like everytime I lose power I have to re-istall the firmware. I have everything connected to a Panamax surge suppressor and I have a trigger connected from the Panamax to the D2 to control the ATI amps. If I shut things down accidently in a different sequence I get an unsafe power from the Panamax. The only way to re-set it is to unplug the Panamax. The last time it happened I turned the D2 off in the front and then set the rear switch to off and then I unplugged it from the Panamax. I then unplugged the Panamax, waited for 30 sec. and then plugged everything back in and turned on the D2. This seemed to work ok. Keep my fingers crossed.
> 
> Ken



The problem apparently happens when other devices (e.g., amps) dump stored energy out their cables WHILE the D2 is also trying to deal with the sudden loss of power. If you can shut the D2 down normally before cutting the wall power you should be OK.


You might also consider a battery backup (e.g., APC brand, as sold for use with computers) between the Panamax and the D2. That would prevent the D2 seeing a sudden loss of wall power if the Panamax goes south. You don't need a big battery. Just something to provide a few minutes of power so you can realize what's happened and shut down the D2 normally.

--Bob


----------



## Stevetd

Is there a discrete code to gain access to the video processor?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/19599374
> 
> 
> Is there a discrete code to gain access to the video processor?



To do what?


If you mean to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu then that's done by pressing and holding the "7" button.


If you mean to set Video Source Adjust menu options directly you can't do that in IR but you can with RS-232.


However if you set up otherwise identical Sources with different Video Source Adjust menu settings you can select between them with IR (see the 3 key combos in Appendix A).

--Bob


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19599438
> 
> 
> If you mean to set Video Source Adjust menu options directly you can't do that in IR but you can with RS-232.
> 
> --Bob



With this... http://www.industrologic.com/ir2desc.htm you can do it by IR. This is an IR to RS232 adapter. I use it to instantly change vertical stretch with one click. I discovered this Google searching but coincidentally the owner of Industrologic, Gary Peek is a friend of mine, a fellow skydiver. He and I use to jump together at the World Free Fall Convention every year, he was the head load organizer. So if you order one tell him I said hi!


Monte


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19599438
> 
> 
> To do what?
> 
> 
> If you mean to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu then that's done by pressing and holding the "7" button.



Yes, I want to have a dedicated button because when enough time passes I forget which number button tp press.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19599438
> 
> 
> If you mean to set Video Source Adjust menu options directly you can't do that in IR but you can with RS-232.



Incidentally I figured out a work around. I just programmed a macro that has the "7" button pressed for a period of time and it works just fine.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19599438
> 
> 
> However if you set up otherwise identical Sources with different Video Source Adjust menu settings you can select between them with IR (see the 3 key combos in Appendix A).
> 
> --Bob



I use that feature too for 60fps vs 24fps and regular TV viewing vs Music channels and it works ideally.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/19601358
> 
> 
> With this... http://www.industrologic.com/ir2desc.htm you can do it by IR. This is an IR to RS232 adapter. I use it to instantly change vertical stretch with one click. I discovered this Google searching but coincidentally the owner of Industrologic, Gary Peek is a friend of mine, a fellow skydiver. He and I use to jump together at the World Free Fall Convention every year, he was the head load organizer. So if you order one tell him I said hi!
> 
> 
> Monte



Interesting.


----------



## Farayar

Hello everybody,


Recently I moved my sub to a different position and had to do a new ARC measurement. When I uploaded it to the D2v I had to set the Main Volume to -33 dB to yield approx. 75 dB in my SPL meter. I have repeated the ARC measurement several times with the same results.


Previously, the first times that I ran ARC (v3.0.1) after I had installed the 2.10 firmware in my D2v, I had to set my Main Volume to -14 dB to yield appox. 75dB.


I have Dolby Volume set to off in all my sources and I have followed Bob instructions in each ARC measurement, setting the test level in Setup> Level Calibration to obtain 75dB from the LF speaker (in my case -12.5, it has always been that value) and using the sub volume knob to set it in the same way. Also, small volume trims were uploaded by ARC, with differences of only +/- 0.5.


I wonder if this has also happened to someone else using ARC v3.0.1.


Thanks and regards.


----------



## jpoet

Got my D2v today. Still got a few things to setup, but what I am struggling with right now, is 1080p60 input from my HTPC. The HTPC is indicating that the D2v is not telling it that it can take 1080p60 input.


I have gone through all the menus but I am not seeing where I would configure what resolutions/refreshes that D2v should accept. If someone could give me a pointer, I would appreciate it.


Thanks,


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/19606239
> 
> 
> Got my D2v today. Still got a few things to setup, but what I am struggling with right now, is 1080p60 input from my HTPC. The HTPC is indicating that the D2v is not telling it that it can take 1080p60 input.
> 
> 
> I have gone through all the menus but I am not seeing where I would configure what resolutions/refreshes that D2v should accept. If someone could give me a pointer, I would appreciate it.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> John



There are no D2v settings to adjust the allowed input resolutions. They are all, always active. Something else is going on here.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite

So I have moved back into my Theatre Room that was rebuilt to achieve acoustical goodness and am having trouble finding the correct location for my two Paradigm 15" Servo Subs, but I still have some places to try. While I was running ARC I found that ARC now has a cut off frequency of 115Hz on my S8s(main speakers) where it used to be 60Hz many times before. Because of this I gave a closer listen and noticed I have 4 blown woofers. I am sure I did this listening to music at extreme levels so I ask, when I get these woofers replaced and ARC sets the cut off at 60Hz again would it be a good idea to raise that cut off manually to say 80Hz and if I did that would I have to adjust anything else?


Thanks, John


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19606581
> 
> 
> There are no D2v settings to adjust the allowed input resolutions. They are all, always active. Something else is going on here.
> 
> --Bob



With the HTPC hooked directly up to the TV, it automatically chose 1080p60. Hooking up the HTPC to the D2v, and the HTPC chooses 720p60.


I was able to *force* my HTPC to output 1080p60, so I am past that -- although I still have to wonder what EDID the D2v is producing, such that my HTPC didn't think 1080p60 was the optimal resolution.


John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19608176
> 
> 
> So I have moved back into my Theatre Room that was rebuilt to achieve acoustical goodness and am having trouble finding the correct location for my two Paradigm 15" Servo Subs, but I still have some places to try. While I was running ARC I found that ARC now has a cut off frequency of 115Hz on my S8s(main speakers) where it used to be 60Hz many times before. Because of this I gave a closer listen and noticed I have 4 blown woofers. I am sure I did this listening to music at extreme levels so I ask, when I get these woofers replaced and ARC sets the cut off at 60Hz again would it be a good idea to raise that cut off manually to say 80Hz and if I did that would I have to adjust anything else?
> 
> 
> Thanks, John



I can't see how raising the cutoff to allow more high frequency energy could protect your subs. They may be blown by extraneously loud subsonics that your woofers protection circuitry didn't catch. Many subs have a low frequecy protection switch which is usually engaged by default. Check your sub to see if that was the case during your prior listening sessions.


My $0.02


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19609560
> 
> 
> I can't see how raising the cutoff to allow more high frequency energy could protect your subs. They may be blown by extraneously loud subsonics that your woofers protection circuitry didn't catch. Many subs have a low frequecy protection switch which is usually engaged by default. Check your sub to see if that was the case during your prior listening sessions.
> 
> 
> My $0.02



It was the woofers in my mains, the Paradigm S8s that blew. I was just babbling about the subs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/19609519
> 
> 
> With the HTPC hooked directly up to the TV, it automatically chose 1080p60. Hooking up the HTPC to the D2v, and the HTPC chooses 720p60.
> 
> 
> I was able to *force* my HTPC to output 1080p60, so I am past that -- although I still have to wonder what EDID the D2v is producing, such that my HTPC didn't think 1080p60 was the optimal resolution.
> 
> 
> John



Some HTPCs go through several resolution changes as they boot up, which means they can get confused about the EDID info. Many folks have found the solution is to switch to a different graphics card.


Others use a gadget like the Geffen HDMI Detective to capture the EDID info they want and present that to the HTPC despite its boot up rigmarole.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19608176
> 
> 
> So I have moved back into my Theatre Room that was rebuilt to achieve acoustical goodness and am having trouble finding the correct location for my two Paradigm 15" Servo Subs, but I still have some places to try. While I was running ARC I found that ARC now has a cut off frequency of 115Hz on my S8s(main speakers) where it used to be 60Hz many times before. Because of this I gave a closer listen and noticed I have 4 blown woofers. I am sure I did this listening to music at extreme levels so I ask, when I get these woofers replaced and ARC sets the cut off at 60Hz again would it be a good idea to raise that cut off manually to say 80Hz and if I did that would I have to adjust anything else?
> 
> 
> Thanks, John



Presuming your subs have reasonable high end bass, there's no problem raising the cutoff/crossover for the mains speakers as you suggest. You don't have to make any other changes, presuming there's nothing odd going on in your charts.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Farayar* /forum/post/19602576
> 
> 
> Hello everybody,
> 
> 
> Recently I moved my sub to a different position and had to do a new ARC measurement. When I uploaded it to the D2v I had to set the Main Volume to -33 dB to yield approx. 75 dB in my SPL meter. I have repeated the ARC measurement several times with the same results.
> 
> 
> Previously, the first times that I ran ARC (v3.0.1) after I had installed the 2.10 firmware in my D2v, I had to set my Main Volume to -14 dB to yield appox. 75dB.
> 
> 
> I have Dolby Volume set to off in all my sources and I have followed Bob instructions in each ARC measurement, setting the test level in Setup> Level Calibration to obtain 75dB from the LF speaker (in my case -12.5, it has always been that value) and using the sub volume knob to set it in the same way. Also, small volume trims were uploaded by ARC, with differences of only +/- 0.5.
> 
> 
> I wonder if this has also happened to someone else using ARC v3.0.1.
> 
> 
> Thanks and regards.



I've not had a problem like this. You should probably email your ARC results file (not just the captured chart images) to Anthem tech support along with the details you posted here so they can look and see if there's anything peculiar in the raw data.

--Bob


----------



## allen_bh

Pardon if I'm posting in the wrong area, this is my very first post.


I have an Anthem D2V and am experiencing an issue with a Windows Media PC connected to it via HDMI. The computer is running Windows 7 (x32) with the NVIDIA ION graphics chipset, the ASRock A330ION specifically. When I connect the PC to the D2V, it recognizes it as an "AVM 50v" display under the display devices in Windows. When I turn the D2V off and subsequently turn it on, the Media PC no longer recognizes that the D2V is connected and will default to "Generic Non-PnP Monitor". The result is a blank/black screen. If I reboot the PC, everything is fine again until I shut the D2V off. I can switch between sources fine, but if the problem happens when I shut the D2V off. I've done the following to try to resolve the issue:


1. Upgraded the drivers on the media PC to Nvidia's 260.99 release (the latest).

2. Upgraded the D2V to the 2.10 release.

3. Update the bios for the ION based system to the latest relase (1.40).


None of the above resolved the issue. I've read on forums that people are using a device by Gefen called the "HDMI Detective Plus" which will hold the connection/handshake to prevent this exact issue. The only way to get the D2V to sync back up to the media PC is to reboot the PC. I replaced a Pioneer Elite SC07 with the Anthem and this problem cropped up. As a bit of additional troubleshooting, I put the Pioneer back in and do not have this problem so it leads me to believe the problem is with the D2V. I've tried the "EDID override" files that were posted for the Anthem and got them installed correctly, but this didn't solve the problem either.


I contacted Anthem and this is what they said:

""This seems to be a hot plug issue between the units. I would contact nVidia and see if they have an updated driver for the video card. We have run into this issue before and it resulted in updating of video card drivers. It seems as if this is a new card and may need some compatibility updates. As previously mentioned this was repaired by nVidia in the past for similar issues.""


They say it's NVidia's fault, and I'm stuck in the middle. Can anyone help?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19609867
> 
> 
> It was the woofers in my mains, the Paradigm S8s that blew. I was just babbling about the subs.



Gotcha ...ditto what Bob said. If your subs have significant high end response to cover the 120Hz and below range easily, then you are good to go. Good time to learn not to stress out the woofers the mains as they were not meant to be as bullet-proof as the Subs







.


----------



## Farayar

Thanks Bob, I will follow your suggestion and email the files and the charts to Anthem.


Regards.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allen_bh* /forum/post/19610729
> 
> 
> Pardon if I'm posting in the wrong area, this is my very first post.
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem D2V and am experiencing an issue with a Windows Media PC connected to it via HDMI. The computer is running Windows 7 (x32) with the NVIDIA ION graphics chipset, the ASRock A330ION specifically. When I connect the PC to the D2V, it recognizes it as an "AVM 50v" display under the display devices in Windows. When I turn the D2V off and subsequently turn it on, the Media PC no longer recognizes that the D2V is connected and will default to "Generic Non-PnP Monitor". The result is a blank/black screen. If I reboot the PC, everything is fine again until I shut the D2V off. I can switch between sources fine, but if the problem happens when I shut the D2V off. I've done the following to try to resolve the issue:
> 
> 
> 1. Upgraded the drivers on the media PC to Nvidia's 260.99 release (the latest).
> 
> 2. Upgraded the D2V to the 2.10 release.
> 
> 3. Update the bios for the ION based system to the latest relase (1.40).
> 
> 
> None of the above resolved the issue. I've read on forums that people are using a device by Gefen called the "HDMI Detective Plus" which will hold the connection/handshake to prevent this exact issue. The only way to get the D2V to sync back up to the media PC is to reboot the PC. I replaced a Pioneer Elite SC07 with the Anthem and this problem cropped up. As a bit of additional troubleshooting, I put the Pioneer back in and do not have this problem so it leads me to believe the problem is with the D2V. I've tried the "EDID override" files that were posted for the Anthem and got them installed correctly, but this didn't solve the problem either.
> 
> 
> I contacted Anthem and this is what they said:
> 
> ""This seems to be a hot plug issue between the units. I would contact nVidia and see if they have an updated driver for the video card. We have run into this issue before and it resulted in updating of video card drivers. It seems as if this is a new card and may need some compatibility updates. As previously mentioned this was repaired by nVidia in the past for similar issues.""
> 
> 
> They say it's NVidia's fault, and I'm stuck in the middle. Can anyone help?



First off, welcome to AVS and to the Cool Kids thread! You are definitely posting in the right place.


The sort of problem you are describing is most commonly a source device problem just as Anthem said. The HDMI protocol is driven by the Source (the HTPC in your case) with the D2v just responding to what the Source asks for.


Try this: Reboot everything so that you have a good connection between the HTPC and the D2v. Now, WITHOUT powering off the D2v, simply switch the D2v to a different Source, wait for it to establish, and then switch back to the HTPC Source. This will force a new HDMI handshake without going through the extra rigmarole that happens during a power cycle.


Do you still have a good HTPC/D2v HDMI connection?


If not, then that really does point the finger at the HDMI code in your graphics card.


If it DOES work, next try power cycling the D2v. That loses your good connection as you have posted. Now, once again, switch the D2v to a different Source and back -- thus forcing a new handshake. Do you get a good connection re-established after that? If the power cycle on the D2v loses the connection but forcing a new handshake this way re-establishes it, then that too points the finger at the HDMI code in your HTPC's graphics card.


------------------------------------


It is quite common for source devices to have flaky HDMI code that doesn't work well if the next device is powering up WHILE the Source is trying to establish the HDMI connection. Simply put, the Source should do a retry but fails to do so.


Some folks just live with this: Getting in the habit of powering things up in reverse order of the HDMI connections. I.e., display first, then video processor, then source device.


You ask why there was no problem with the Pioneer? Well the D2v likely returns more info when queried than the Pioneer, and the power up timing is different. Both of those could result in the HTPC not getting the answer when it does its initial query. Again, the HTPC should just retry, but apparently that isn't happening.


The info the HTPC is failing to get is simply a block of data read out of the D2v. Obviously the correct info is there as things work until you power cycle the D2v. So the HTPC's attempt to read that block of data is what's failing.


Now, a device like the Geffen HDMI Detective allows you to capture that information so that it is always present when the Source tries to read it. Since the Detective is so simple, it has no boot up delay that might interfere.


---------------------------------------------------


There is one other possibility you might consider. Disconnect the HDMI cable from the D2v to your display and then try your power cycle test again. Does the HTPC properly discover it is talking to an Anthem even across a power cycle when the display is not connected? Then that too points at a timing issue in the HDMI handshake code in the HTPC graphics card. The handshake is more complicated when the display is connected because the HTPC needs to query the display THROUGH the D2v.


You can simplify the display portion of the handshake by using explicit settings instead of Auto settings in the D2v. E.g., use YCbCr 4:4:4 as the output choice instead of Auto. Similarly you can simplify the portion of the handshake between the HTPC and the D2v by using explicit settings in the HTPC. All this does is change the timing of the handshake, but it may be enough to get around whatever the glitch is in the HDMI code in the HTPC.

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19608176
> 
> 
> While I was running ARC I found that ARC now has a cut off frequency of 115Hz on my S8s(main speakers) where it used to be 60Hz many times before. Because of this I gave a closer listen and noticed I have *4 blown woofers*. I am sure I did this listening to music at extreme levels so I ask, when I get these woofers replaced and ARC sets the cut off at 60Hz again would it be a good idea to raise that cut off manually to say 80Hz and if I did that would I have to adjust anything else?
> 
> Thanks, John



I'd say that either you need to get some new amplification, turn things down just a wee bit and maybe get a hearing test, I said maybe get a hearing test.


----------



## allen_bh

Thanks for the warm welcome.


I posted my results below in red. Based on the feedback, I started down the path of troubleshooting the drivers. I did a complete uninstall and rebooted and Windows did an autoupdate and installed the drivers from Windows update. I rebooted again and no luck -- same black/blank screen issue. I then removed those drivers and disconnected the HTPC from the network and rebooted, thus forcing the "out of box" drivers that came from Microsoft and rebooted. This time the results were different. Power cycling the D2V still resulted in the HTPC losing the display information and going from "AVM 50v" to "Non Plug and Play" display, however I did not lose the screen. The resolution dropped to a lesser resolution and I was able to change those settings to 1080P. So now here's what happens from a fresh boot sequence:

1. Display device information in Windows 7 shows "AVM 50v" and everything displays at 1080p fine.

2. Power off the D2V and turn it back on.

3. Display device shows "non Plug and Play" display and resolution stays at 1080p.

4. So now Windows thinks I have two monitors, but each have 1080p set as the resolution so it seems to be working somewhat ok.


The out of box drivers are kind of working. The responsiveness is much slower than the recent NVidia drivers, but it's a kludge. I'm going to experiment with older NVidia drivers and see if there's one available that works -- maybe I'll get lucky.


I also read in the forums about a setting in the D2 that's not in the D2V called "HDMI Repeater". I wonder if that kind of setting would help out in this sort of situation and why they removed it from the D2V??


Thanks for all the help!

________________________

Try this: Reboot everything so that you have a good connection between the HTPC and the D2v. Now, WITHOUT powering off the D2v, simply switch the D2v to a different Source, wait for it to establish, and then switch back to the HTPC Source. This will force a new HDMI handshake without going through the extra rigmarole that happens during a power cycle.


Do you still have a good HTPC/D2v HDMI connection?
-- Yes, the connection is still good. I can switch between sources without issue.

If not, then that really does point the finger at the HDMI code in your graphics card.


If it DOES work, next try power cycling the D2v. That loses your good connection as you have posted. Now, once again, switch the D2v to a different Source and back -- thus forcing a new handshake. Do you get a good connection re-established after that?
--No, this doesn't change anything. The screen is still blank.

If the power cycle on the D2v loses the connection but forcing a new handshake this way re-establishes it, then that too points the finger at the HDMI code in your HTPC's graphics card.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The "HDMI Repeater" setting was a great idea Anthem came up with, and it solved lots of problems with flaky source device HDMI implementations particularly in cable TV boxes (although I doubt it would solve your particular HTPC problem).


Unfortunately, it was contrary to what HDMI ORG considers a "correct" implementation of HDMI, and Anthem had to remove it or they couldn't get HDMI certification under the latest tests.


There's rather more of this sort of certification silliness going on than most people realize....

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19610157
> 
> 
> Presuming your subs have reasonable high end bass, there's no problem raising the cutoff/crossover for the mains speakers as you suggest. You don't have to make any other changes, presuming there's nothing odd going on in your charts.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I'll post my charts when I'm finished experimenting.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/19611385
> 
> 
> I'd say that either you need to get some new amplification, turn things down just a wee bit and maybe get a hearing test, I said maybe get a hearing test.




New amplification, and maybe better speakers. I like to squeeze out as much power as I can with music just below clipping of the amps, I'm 46 and can still hear fine.........knock on wood.


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19608176
> 
> 
> ...I gave a closer listen and noticed I have 4 blown woofers. I am sure I did this listening to music at extreme levels...
> 
> Thanks, John



Four woofers blown in one cabinet or another combination? You have four voice coils sharing the load so to blow that with clean power you had to be listening really loud! More likely you were clipping. The thing is, when the amp first starts to clip a little the perception is not so much of distortion but rather just more volume. As it starts to compress it just sounds louder so if you have a taste for loud it actually presents itself as an advantage at first. Of course the voice coils don't see it that way.


How much power are you running? If much over 100 watts then you may not be able to upsize the amplifier enough to do much good. It simply takes too much power to get the perceptual volume increase. You would just end up blowing them again with clean power if you gave them enough to get that loud.


Increasing the crossover frequency to 80 Hz will help some. This will take some of the load off them. That's starting to get pretty high though although you mention having two subs so that's not such a big deal. I assume you have one sub on each side of the room. Then again you're probably driving the subs with the mono subwoofer output so you're still going to mono at a really high frequency. I prefer maintaining stereo to the lowest room mode which is currently presenting a minor issue for me as my lowest mode is 18 Hz. Something tells me I'm not going to convince Anthem to change the lowest crossover setting from 25 Hz to 18 Hz. Anyway assuming your subs have built in crossovers you could drive them with the Left/Right preamp outputs and not use the sub output. Then you could set your crossovers as high as you want limited by the upper capability of the subwoofers. I personally would never go to mono anywhere near 80 Hz but your listening experience is what's important here. You may want to try it both ways, once your mains are repaired try a higher crossover frequency both using the sub output and using the mains outputs. I use dipole woofers so in my case maintaining stereo to lower frequency is more critical but in your case you are using monopole bass so it may not even be an issue.


mk


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/19612675
> 
> 
> Four woofers blown in one cabinet or another combination? You have four voice coils sharing the load so to blow that with clean power you had to be listening really loud! More likely you were clipping. The thing is, when the amp first starts to clip a little the perception is not so much of distortion but rather just more volume. As it starts to compress it just sounds louder so if you have a taste for loud it actually presents itself as an advantage at first. Of course the voice coils don't see it that way.
> 
> 
> How much power are you running? If much over 100 watts then you may not be able to upsize the amplifier enough to do much good. It simply takes too much power to get the perceptual volume increase. You would just end up blowing them again with clean power if you gave them enough to get that loud.
> 
> 
> Increasing the crossover frequency to 80 Hz will help some. This will take some of the load off them. That's starting to get pretty high though although you mention having two subs so that's not such a big deal. I assume you have one sub on each side of the room. Then again you're probably driving the subs with the mono subwoofer output so you're still going to mono at a really high frequency. I prefer maintaining stereo to the lowest room mode which is currently presenting a minor issue for me as my lowest mode is 18 Hz. Something tells me I'm not going to convince Anthem to change the lowest crossover setting from 25 Hz to 18 Hz. Anyway assuming your subs have built in crossovers you could drive them with the Left/Right preamp outputs and not use the sub output. Then you could set your crossovers as high as you want limited by the upper capability of the subwoofers. I personally would never go to mono anywhere near 80 Hz but your listening experience is what's important here. You may want to try it both ways, once your mains are repaired try a higher crossover frequency both using the sub output and using the mains outputs. I use dipole woofers so in my case maintaining stereo to lower frequency is more critical but in your case you are using monopole bass so it may not even be an issue.
> 
> 
> mk



There are 2 blown in each speaker and I have 2 MCA 50s bi-amped across the front, 360 watts I believe and then the other four channels with 180 watts. Thanks for the info mk, I'll throw your suggestions into my experimenting.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19593636
> 
> 
> Could someone with a D2 running v1.33 firmware see what sample rate the D2 is receiving when playing SACD and DVD-A discs on either an Oppo 83 or 93? 41.1/48/88.2/96 khz??
> 
> 
> Please post or pm me.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



Well I decided to test this myself since I still have my oppo 83 in house.


With the D2 running v1.47f and the oppo 83 running the latest public beta firmware the results were the same as with the oppo 93-- 48khz for sacd and dvd-a being shown on the D2 display.


So then I decided to roll back to v1.33. My laptop froze twice trying to go back to v1.33 from v1.47f. I then flash erased the D2 and was able to load v1.33 with no problems. This same problem occurred the last time I went from v1.47 to v1.33.


With v1.33 on board the D2 showed it was getting:

44.1khz for cd's

88.2khz for sacd's

96khz for dvd-a

from both the oppo 83 and 93.


I reported the findings to Anthem tech and Nick said he would check it out.

Hopefully it can be corrected when the long promised D2 firmware upgrade is released. Maybe some day. Finally. Hopefully.










Tom


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19613028
> 
> 
> There are 2 blown in each speaker and I have 2 MCA 50s bi-amped across the front, 360 watts I believe and then the other four channels with 180 watts. Thanks for the info mk, I'll throw your suggestions into my experimenting.



That's a lot of power! About 90 watts per woofer so even clean that's probably pushing those things to their limits. It probably wouldn't take much clipping at that point to be more than they can take. You may just need to consider larger speakers. At 60 Hz it's not likely you are hitting mechanical limits, you're just dissipating too much power in the coils exceeding their thermal limits. Even if you were not blowing the woofers you would be distorting them due to the thermal variations in the coils. Play around with higher crossover settings and go with as high a setting as you can get away with without compromising sound quality. Beyond that, shop for larger more capable speakers. I'm into overkill myself, I like my speakers to be basically just idling at 10 dB above reference. That way they never have issues at reference.


mk


----------



## peechus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/19612675
> 
> 
> Four woofers blown in one cabinet or another combination? You have four voice coils sharing the load so to blow that with clean power you had to be listening really loud! More likely you were clipping. The thing is, when the amp first starts to clip a little the perception is not so much of distortion but rather just more volume. As it starts to compress it just sounds louder so if you have a taste for loud it actually presents itself as an advantage at first. Of course the voice coils don't see it that way.
> 
> 
> How much power are you running? If much over 100 watts then you may not be able to upsize the amplifier enough to do much good. It simply takes too much power to get the perceptual volume increase. You would just end up blowing them again with clean power if you gave them enough to get that loud.
> 
> 
> Increasing the crossover frequency to 80 Hz will help some. This will take some of the load off them. That's starting to get pretty high though although you mention having two subs so that's not such a big deal. I assume you have one sub on each side of the room. Then again you're probably driving the subs with the mono subwoofer output so you're still going to mono at a really high frequency. I prefer maintaining stereo to the lowest room mode which is currently presenting a minor issue for me as my lowest mode is 18 Hz. Something tells me I'm not going to convince Anthem to change the lowest crossover setting from 25 Hz to 18 Hz. Anyway assuming your subs have built in crossovers you could drive them with the Left/Right preamp outputs and not use the sub output. Then you could set your crossovers as high as you want limited by the upper capability of the subwoofers. I personally would never go to mono anywhere near 80 Hz but your listening experience is what's important here. You may want to try it both ways, once your mains are repaired try a higher crossover frequency both using the sub output and using the mains outputs. I use dipole woofers so in my case maintaining stereo to lower frequency is more critical but in your case you are using monopole bass so it may not even be an issue.
> 
> 
> mk



Dipole speakers as woofers? My 1.7's could use a name, care to share?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/19614658
> 
> 
> Dipole speakers as woofers? My 1.7's could use a name, care to share?



He makes his own. Check out the link in his signature. "Overkill" is modest.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Studlygoorite* /forum/post/19613028
> 
> 
> There are 2 blown in each speaker and I have 2 MCA 50s bi-amped across the front, 360 watts I believe and then the other four channels with 180 watts. Thanks for the info mk, I'll throw your suggestions into my experimenting.



Studly;


I noticed from your sig that you are using the EarthWorks M30 microphone in your tests. I also bought one but have never had the chance to use it yet. How low and reliable is its low frequency response measurements (even with its calibration files)? ...Sorry for the OT post.


BTW ...you have an insane (or extreme







) HT system. Impressive indeed!


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/19612675
> 
> 
> I prefer maintaining stereo to the lowest room mode which is currently presenting a minor issue for me as my lowest mode is 18 Hz.



I understand the ongoing debate about where humans no longer perceive directional cues and spatiality at low frequencies, but how do room modes figure into the selection of crossover frequency to a mono subwoofer? Welti, et al, have shown that one of the best ways to deal with room modes is to drive the affected region from multiple woofers carrying the same signal, and indeed it worked wonders in my room. Leaving the woofers to carry different signals means their interactions are not consistent wrt combating modes.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19615185
> 
> 
> Studly;
> 
> 
> I noticed from your sig that you are using the EarthWorks M30 microphone in your tests. I also bought one but have never had the chance to use it yet. How low and reliable is its low frequency response measurements (even with its calibration files)? ...Sorry for the OT post.
> 
> 
> BTW ...you have an insane (or extreme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) HT system. Impressive indeed!




I believe you clicked on Montekay's link, wish it was mine.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19615509
> 
> 
> I believe you clicked on Montekay's link, wish it was mine.



Ooops ...my apologies studly







!


Montekay, can you help answer the M30 question?


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19616483
> 
> 
> Ooops ...my apologies studly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> Montekay, can you help answer the M30 question?



I guess I'm going to find out once my "Sub-subwoofer" is up and running. I believe the spec on the M-30 is 7 Hz, I'm expecting > 120 dB capability @ 5 Hz so it will be difficult to verify with measurements. My brother Marshall http://www.audioartistry.com/ also has the M-30. He paid the extra $50 for the calibration curve on his. I carried the form around for mine planning to order it until I lost the form. We did compare them however and found them to be very close to each other. I may still have the over plot somewhere on my laptop. Seems like it was within less than a dB for the most part. We never compared them anywhere close to single digit Hz however. If I find the over plot I'll post it. Also if I manage to get out of Taiwan and out to North Carolina for Christmas I'll take my M-30 so we can do more comparisons with his at ultra low frequency. He's actually built a spark gap microphone calibration system that produces nearly identical results with the Earthworks calibration.


mk


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19615417
> 
> 
> I understand the ongoing debate about where humans no longer perceive directional cues and spatiality at low frequencies, but how do room modes figure into the selection of crossover frequency to a mono subwoofer? Welti, et al, have shown that one of the best ways to deal with room modes is to drive the affected region from multiple woofers carrying the same signal, and indeed it worked wonders in my room. Leaving the woofers to carry different signals means their interactions are not consistent wrt combating modes.



It's probably not really necessary even with dipole woofers and yes multiple woofer locations do help smooth out the uniformity in the room. Typically the lowest frequencies are sent to both mains in sound tracks anyway but there will be some variations. Those variations present themselves audibly only in the harmonic content variations between the two channels. If you go to mono too high you lose that separation. If you maintain stereo to or at least near the lowest room mode then there is no chance of any directional information being lost. Wavelengths longer than the room can't provide any clues. Realistically this argument is probably just another symptom of my taste for extreme. It may not even be a valid argument.


mk


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/19616826
> 
> 
> If you go to mono too high you lose that separation.



Yes, that was the debate to which I alluded.



> Quote:
> If you maintain stereo to or at least near the lowest room mode then there is no chance of any directional information being lost.



Seems that depends a lot on how large a room one inhabits. What's the lowest room mode in a car? Anyway, it's not really relevant--the human ability to perceive stereo bass is not related to room size.



> Quote:
> Wavelengths longer than the room can't provide any clues.



No, But that does not mean frequencies above that point can, either.



> Quote:
> Realistically this argument is probably just another symptom of my taste for extreme. It may not even be a valid argument.



I have no problem with that. Carry on! I'm looking forward to hearing tales of the new attic sub when it's running.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/19616744
> 
> 
> I guess I'm going to find out once my "Sub-subwoofer" is up and running. I believe the spec on the M-30 is 7 Hz, I'm expecting > 120 dB capability @ 5 Hz so it will be difficult to verify with measurements. My brother Marshall http://www.audioartistry.com/ also has the M-30. He paid the extra $50 for the calibration curve on his. I carried the form around for mine planning to order it until I lost the form. We did compare them however and found them to be very close to each other. I may still have the over plot somewhere on my laptop. Seems like it was within less than a dB for the most part. We never compared them anywhere close to single digit Hz however. If I find the over plot I'll post it. Also if I manage to get out of Taiwan and out to North Carolina for Christmas I'll take my M-30 so we can do more comparisons with his at ultra low frequency. He's actually built a spark gap microphone calibration system that produces nearly identical results with the Earthworks calibration.
> 
> 
> mk



Thanks mk ...look forward to your results


----------



## allen_bh

So here's the reply I received from Nvidia. They blame Anthem and here I am again stuck in the middle. I'm quickly starting to regret my purchase....Does anybody have an HTPC with an NVIDIA card connected and working with their D2V??


""Thank you for contacting NVIDIA Customer Care.


This is Edilbert, assisting you in troubleshooting the issue that you are experiencing.


I understand that you have a ASRock A330ION Windows 7 32-bit based PC that you have connected to the Anthem Audio D2V A/V board via HDMI. I need to inform you that when the D2V is switched off there is a loss of signal and when it is switched back on the signal still wouldn't reach the board. I regret to inform that the only possible workaround for the Windows 7 OS is to restart the PC.


Regard,

Edilbert.

NVIDIA Customer Care

"""


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allen_bh* /forum/post/19617820
> 
> 
> So here's the reply I received from Nvidia. They blame Anthem and here I am again stuck in the middle. I'm quickly starting to regret my purchase....Does anybody have an HTPC with an NVIDIA card connected and working with their D2V??
> 
> 
> ""Thank you for contacting NVIDIA Customer Care.
> 
> 
> This is E*dilbert*, assisting you in troubleshooting the issue that you are experiencing.
> 
> 
> I understand that you have a ASRock A330ION Windows 7 32-bit based PC that you have connected to the Anthem Audio D2V A/V board via HDMI. I need to inform you that when the D2V is switched off there is a loss of signal and when it is switched back on the signal still wouldn't reach the board. I regret to inform that the only possible workaround for the Windows 7 OS is to restart the PC.
> 
> 
> Regard,
> 
> Edilbert.
> 
> NVIDIA Customer Care
> 
> """



Allen:


Since you are going back and forth between NVIDIA and Anthem to no end, I suggest you find a solution yourself. As was suggested earlier, you must find a way to 'fake' an HDMI handshake, either from the D2V end or HTPC side.

You could do either of the following to force an HDMI handshake:


1. Make a temporary change in monitor resolution or color. Say "No" when asked to keep the new resolution or color depth.


OR


2. Switch inputs on the D2v as suggested earlier by Bob P.


OR


3. Buy a cheap and small 2:1 HDMI switch (such as the good ones from GEFEN or Auto Sensing ones from Oppo Digital) to connect the HTPC to the D2V. Activating a port by the detection of a video signal will force a handshake between the HTPC, SWITCH and D2v.


I know solutions 1 & 2 aren't ideal but #3, I believe is your best bet for a trouble free operation while using your newly optimized video drivers.


Hope this helps...


David


PS ... I wonder why Dilbert(







) is helping you in this issue







?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allen_bh* /forum/post/19617820
> 
> 
> So here's the reply I received from Nvidia. They blame Anthem and here I am again stuck in the middle. I'm quickly starting to regret my purchase....Does anybody have an HTPC with an NVIDIA card connected and working with their D2V??
> 
> 
> ""Thank you for contacting NVIDIA Customer Care.
> 
> 
> This is Edilbert, assisting you in troubleshooting the issue that you are experiencing.
> 
> 
> I understand that you have a ASRock A330ION Windows 7 32-bit based PC that you have connected to the Anthem Audio D2V A/V board via HDMI. I need to inform you that when the D2V is switched off there is a loss of signal and when it is switched back on the signal still wouldn't reach the board. I regret to inform that the only possible workaround for the Windows 7 OS is to restart the PC.
> 
> 
> Regard,
> 
> Edilbert.
> 
> NVIDIA Customer Care
> 
> """



I am using an Nvidia card, the GeForce 9500 GS with Vista and am doing nothing special to get it working with my D2v, aside from the odd Handshake issue.


----------



## barrygordon

re post by allenBH


I have an Asrock ION 330 connected to a 50v over HDMI. I am using XBMCLive (Both Dharma and Camelot) and have only minor issues. XBMC is Linux based so perhaps that is why I have almost no issues.


I have another PC also connected to the 50v over HDMI running the Intel Graphics processor and software. I have similar minor issues with that one also. It is Windows XP based.


Okay, what are the minor issues? Sometimes the handshake does not go through (about 5% of the time, 1 out of 20) just a black screen; so I re-command the connect by switching to another input and then back. There is generally a significant (IMHO) delay time in the picture coming up (3-10 seconds) but Anthem states this is within spec. I don't know whose spec, but HDMI in general sucks whenever you switch inputs for what reason I do not know. I am not changing the display so the video portion of the EDID should not change, and the anthem produces the audio portion of the EDID. I assume it is the HDCP handshake that is causing the issues. I do believe this has been addressed by caching the HDCP handshake in the newest chipsets.


I have a similar delay when dealing with my DVR's which are connected over component. What bothers me there is that when I switch between the two DVR's I often see the picture of the second (switched to) DVR immediately on the screen then the screen goes black and a few seconds later it reappears. I can not figure out why.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19609867
> 
> 
> It was the woofers in my mains, the Paradigm S8s that blew. I was just babbling about the subs.



Did you hear any distortion prior to the woofers blowing? I would've thought the tweeter would've given up first if you were overpowering the system (unless it was just extremely bass heavy music you were listening to). To blow 4 woofers in a pretty decent pair of speakers is pretty unusual. Any chance the amp was passing DC? I've had a couple of blown car subs in the past b/c the darn amplifier had a fault and was passing DC.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/19621005
> 
> 
> Did you hear any distortion prior to the woofers blowing? I would've thought the tweeter would've given up first if you were overpowering the system (unless it was just extremely bass heavy music you were listening to). To blow 4 woofers in a pretty decent pair of speakers is pretty unusual. Any chance the amp was passing DC? I've had a couple of blown car subs in the past b/c the darn amplifier had a fault and was passing DC.



I never heard any distortion and didn't even know it happened until I ran ARC. Those Beryllium tweeters can take quite a bit. How can an amp pass DC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Our latest instance of Richard Syndrome: Discovering via ARC that a speaker you've been enjoying up to now is actually broken.









--Bob


----------



## allen_bh

I broke down and bought the Gefen HDMI detective plus and hooked it up. I also went back to the latest NVidia drivers. The HDMI detective has solved the problem.


The thing I find odd is that screen goes black/blank without the power adapter plugged into the HDMI detective. According to Gefen's instructions (and everywhere else I've read), once you program it with the EDID information from the display device, you no longer need the power adapter. Interesting enough, I can unplug the power and get the black screen, and plug it back in and the screen comes back just fine without ever losing the "AVM 50v" display information in Windows. I'd be very interested to hear if anyone else has this sort of hotplug problem over HDMI with an AVM50v or D2V AND Windows 7. I've read that Linux has a lot of ability to override settings in the configuration files, but it sounds like this is a Windows 7 problem as it relates to the D2V AND Nvidia.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allen_bh* /forum/post/19622427
> 
> 
> I broke down and bought the Gefen HDMI detective plus and hooked it up. I also went back to the latest NVidia drivers. The HDMI detective has solved the problem.
> 
> 
> The thing I find odd is that screen goes black/blank without the power adapter plugged into the HDMI detective. According to Gefen's instructions (and everywhere else I've read), once you program it with the EDID information from the display device, you no longer need the power adapter. Interesting enough, I can unplug the power and get the black screen, and plug it back in and the screen comes back just fine without ever losing the "AVM 50v" display information in Windows. I'd be very interested to hear if anyone else has this sort of hotplug problem over HDMI with an AVM50v or D2V AND Windows 7. I've read that Linux has a lot of ability to override settings in the configuration files, but it sounds like this is a Windows 7 problem as it relates to the D2V AND Nvidia.



Apparently Nvidia knows about it as that was in their response to you.


" I regret to inform that the only possible workaround for the *Windows 7 OS* is to restart the PC."


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allen_bh* /forum/post/19622427
> 
> 
> I broke down and bought the Gefen HDMI detective plus and hooked it up. I also went back to the latest NVidia drivers. The HDMI detective has solved the problem.
> 
> 
> The thing I find odd is that screen goes black/blank without the power adapter plugged into the HDMI detective. According to Gefen's instructions (and everywhere else I've read), once you program it with the EDID information from the display device, you no longer need the power adapter. Interesting enough, I can unplug the power and get the black screen, and plug it back in and the screen comes back just fine without ever losing the "AVM 50v" display information in Windows. I'd be very interested to hear if anyone else has this sort of hotplug problem over HDMI with an AVM50v or D2V AND Windows 7. I've read that Linux has a lot of ability to override settings in the configuration files, but it sounds like this is a Windows 7 problem as it relates to the D2V AND Nvidia.



A hotplug issue like this is most likely in the HDMI hardware implementation on the Nvidia card. I suppose updated Nvidia drivers might be able to work around it, but the root cause is likely in their hardware.


By leaving the Geffen on wall power you basically insure that the Nvidia never sees an unpowered device at the other end of the cable.


Devices with HDMI CEC (i.e., remotely control one device from another device over HDMI) will also leave their HDMI sockets powered even when "Off", and so they too might work with the current Nvidia hardware and drivers. And some other devices also leave their HDMI sockets powered (even when "Off"), even though they DON'T implement CEC, either out of sloppy engineering or some desire to avoid hot plug problems in flaky source devices (although this can introduce OTHER problems).

--Bob


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19621828
> 
> 
> I never heard any distortion and didn't even know it happened until I ran ARC. Those Beryllium tweeters can take quite a bit. How can an amp pass DC?



Capacitors fry and the amp "shorts" and sends out direct current that welds the the voice coil of the driver to the pole.

I had a power amp do this in late 70's. There was a brief howl until the VC melted and the woofer was permanently welded to fullest extension of the surround.

Fortunately the manufacturer spec'd every box as it left the factory and I was able to order an exact duplicate via the serial number.

Shorting to DC is a pretty rare occurrence AFAIK.

This was an esoteric amp that had good sonic qualities but no protection.

If your amp shorted to DC when the woofers blew it would still be doing it so I seriously doubt this is what happened.

When you say your woofers are "blown". exactly what are the symptoms?

Are the surrounds blown out? Does the VC rub when you move the cone by hand? I'm assume no sound whatsoever comes out of them or it's very distorted and low volume.


----------



## video_bit_bucket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I never heard any distortion and didn't even know it happened until I ran ARC. Those Beryllium tweeters can take quite a bit. How can an amp pass DC?



You said you were bi amped with two A5's as I recall, likely only the woofers put enough load on the amp to clip. The midrange and tweeters would have been getting a clean signal. If you are bi amped vertically then you have done all you can with what you have, if you went side to side with all the woofers on the same amp then you may have overrun the power supplies by actually driving all channels at above the rated output. Now if you had two P5's..........


----------



## esander3

Quote:

Originally Posted by *allen_bh* 
I broke down and bought the Gefen HDMI detective plus and hooked it up. I also went back to the latest NVidia drivers. The HDMI detective has solved the problem.


The thing I find odd is that screen goes black/blank without the power adapter plugged into the HDMI detective. According to Gefen's instructions (and everywhere else I've read), once you program it with the EDID information from the display device, you no longer need the power adapter. Interesting enough, I can unplug the power and get the black screen, and plug it back in and the screen comes back just fine without ever losing the "AVM 50v" display information in Windows. I'd be very interested to hear if anyone else has this sort of hotplug problem over HDMI with an AVM50v or D2V AND Windows 7. I've read that Linux has a lot of ability to override settings in the configuration files, but it sounds like this is a Windows 7 problem as it relates to the D2V AND Nvidia.
I have no problems with my HTPC running W7 32 bit (or 64 bit), but I have an ATI graphics card...



Ed


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/19622972
> 
> 
> Capacitors fry and the amp "shorts" and sends out direct current that welds the the voice coil of the driver to the pole.
> 
> I had a power amp do this in late 70's. There was a brief howl until the VC melted and the woofer was permanently welded to fullest extension of the surround.
> 
> Fortunately the manufacturer spec'd every box as it left the factory and I was able to order an exact duplicate via the serial number.
> 
> Shorting to DC is a pretty rare occurrence AFAIK.
> 
> This was an esoteric amp that had good sonic qualities but no protection.
> 
> If your amp shorted to DC when the woofers blew it would still be doing it so I seriously doubt this is what happened.
> *When you say your woofers are "blown". exactly what are the symptoms?*Are the surrounds blown out? Does the VC rub when you move the cone by hand? I'm assume no sound whatsoever comes out of them or it's very distorted and low volume.



When I push the woofers in I don't hear anything but when I use ARC Tools and do a quick measure during the sweep there is a rattle heard in the woofer that you can only hear by placing your ear up close and surrounds are fine.


----------



## allen_bh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/19624579
> 
> 
> I have no problems with my HTPC running W7 32 bit (or 64 bit), but I have an ATI graphics card...
> 
> 
> 
> Ed



Thanks....very helpful.


----------



## allen_bh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19622739
> 
> 
> 
> By leaving the Geffen on wall power you basically insure that the Nvidia never sees an unpowered device at the other end of the cable.
> 
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob...


Yet when I unplug the power from the Gefen, the screen goes blank. It appears the signal is lost there. When I plug the power back in, it re-sync's without issue and the screen appears fine.


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19624787
> 
> 
> When I push the woofers in I don't hear anything but when I use ARC Tools and do a quick measure during the sweep there is a rattle heard in the woofer that you can only hear by placing your ear up close and surrounds are fine.



I had that happen with a single woofer last year too (ATC 12" driver). It wasn't from overdriving them, just a random failure - perhaps the voice coil separated due to adhesive failure. To have 4 "random" failures would be against the odds. Tweeters are very sensitive to clipping, woofers much less. I think this is an x-files case - not just simple overdriving of the woofers. Perhaps there is a batch failure from Paradigm - let us know what comes of this.


----------



## facke02

I have the Oppo BDP-93 and have just gotten to spend some time with it. I followed the recommended setup for the D2v, or I think I have them. I've tested a few DVD and Blu-ray disks and overall the quality is very good. But I have noticed on some that I get some noticeable lag in the audio. National Treasures 2 BR and God Father 2 DVD are two that had issues. Is there an official post with the recommended D2v / BDP-93 settings?


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the Oppo BDP-93 and have just gotten to spend some time with it. I followed the recommended setup for the D2v, or I think I have them. I've tested a few DVD and Blu-ray disks and overall the quality is very good. But I have noticed on some that I get some noticeable lag in the audio. National Treasures 2 BR and God Father 2 DVD are two that had issues. Is there an official post with the recommended D2v / BDP-93 settings?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I get some lip syncing issues with the oppo

BDP83 when I pause for a short time, but not with every title. Pausing again for a very short time and then starting usually cures this.

John


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I get some lip syncing issues with the oppo
> 
> BDP83 when I pause for a short time, but not with every title. Pausing again for a very short time and then starting usually cures this.
> 
> John



Thanks John, I'll give that a try.


Ken


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/19627654
> 
> 
> I have the Oppo BDP-93 and have just gotten to spend some time with it. I followed the recommended setup for the D2v, or I think I have them. I've tested a few DVD and Blu-ray disks and overall the quality is very good. But I have noticed on some that I get some noticeable lag in the audio. National Treasures 2 BR and God Father 2 DVD are two that had issues. Is there an official post with the recommended D2v / BDP-93 settings?
> 
> 
> Thanks



If Jayray's suggesetion doesn't help, check on the AVS Oppo 93 thread.

It seems that lipsynch is a known bug that will be fixed, but many have found that switching to the HDMI-2 out of the 93 cures the problem.


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> If Jayray's suggesetion doesn't help, check on the AVS Oppo 93 thread.
> 
> It seems that lipsynch is a known bug that will be fixed, but many have found that switching to the HDMI-2 out of the 93 cures the problem.
> 
> 
> Tom



This also a known bug with the 83 for quite some time but no fix yet.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the Oppo BDP-93 and have just gotten to spend some time with it. I followed the recommended setup for the D2v, or I think I have them. I've tested a few DVD and Blu-ray disks and overall the quality is very good. But I have noticed on some that I get some noticeable lag in the audio. National Treasures 2 BR and God Father 2 DVD are two that had issues. Is there an official post with the recommended D2v / BDP-93 settings?
> 
> 
> Thanks



The problems you are having are due to the "pre-release" firmware in the 93. You can use its HDMI 2 output to minimize those for now, or just live with them until Oppo releases new firmware.

--Bib


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19627687
> 
> 
> I get some lip syncing issues with the oppo
> 
> BDP83 when I pause for a short time, but not with every title. Pausing again for a very short time and then starting usually cures this.
> 
> John



Greetings,


What I find works with the 83 to get the audio back in synch is to rewind just a tad.


Regards,


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> What I find works with the 83 to get the audio back in synch is to rewind just a tad.
> 
> 
> Regards,



I don't normally get lip synching but I do get it when pausing and for that, pausing very briefly works every time. What a pain









John


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Bogg* /forum/post/19626316
> 
> 
> I had that happen with a single woofer last year too (ATC 12" driver). It wasn't from overdriving them, just a random failure - perhaps the voice coil separated due to adhesive failure. To have 4 "random" failures would be against the odds. Tweeters are very sensitive to clipping, woofers much less. I think this is an x-files case - not just simple overdriving of the woofers. Perhaps there is a batch failure from Paradigm - let us know what comes of this.



I agree. From your description it sounds like the VC is partially detached from the cone for whatever reason.

I would unscrew one of the woofers and take a look and also contact your dealer.

Sorry for your misfortune.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19631191
> 
> 
> I don't normally get lip synching but I do get it when pausing and for that, pausing very briefly works every time. What a pain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Greetings,


John, most of the time I experience it when I have reloaded a disc that the player's memory continues where last left off. Otherwise I don't really have a problem.


Regards,


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The problems you are having are due to the "pre-release" firmware in the 93. You can use its HDMI 2 output to minimize those for now, or just live with them until Oppo releases new firmware.
> 
> --Bib



Thanks Bob.

I may try HDMI 2 and see what happens.


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19582354
> 
> 
> If you are getting the same shape curve on *ALL* speakers above 6KHz I think you have a failed microphone. You are recording no treble output at all. For this to NOT be a microphone failure you'd have to assume the tweeters blew out on all your speakers or that you failed to wire the treble inputs on all your speakers. (And even THEN you'd likely get some leakage up there from the mid-range driver.)



I tried today with the new microphone Anthem sent me and I got the exact same results. Complete drop off above ~6kHz, on all speakers.


What's more, there's no way my little center speaker with a quoted frequency response of 60-25000 Hz is going to be as loud as my Canton AS225SC subwoofer at 20 Hz!


So something is seriously out of whack here and it is not the micrpphone. Is there something wrong with the DSP board in the AVM50?


I have not changed any of the ARC settings, I am running it on automatic. And remember my speakers sound fine, I am sure I would be able to hear the difference if they suddenly lost everything above 6 kHz.


What could I do to troubleshoot this?


----------



## dweltman

Just curious, I've been having many more HDMI handshake issues with my Harmony remote startup since I loaded the latest public firmware. The previous public firmware version (was it 2.8?) was the most solid one I ever had from the HDMI handshake perspective. Very rarely any problems. With the newest one, I seem to have shut everything down and recycle more frequently, particularly when I change from my cable box to Blu-Ray and back. Anybody ese have this experience? Any reason for this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/19634737
> 
> 
> I tried today with the new microphone Anthem sent me and I got the exact same results. Complete drop off above ~6kHz, on all speakers.
> 
> 
> What's more, there's no way my little center speaker with a quoted frequency response of 60-25000 Hz is going to be as loud as my Canton AS225SC subwoofer at 20 Hz!
> 
> 
> So something is seriously out of whack here and it is not the micrpphone. Is there something wrong with the DSP board in the AVM50?
> 
> 
> I have not changed any of the ARC settings, I am running it on automatic. And remember my speakers sound fine, I am sure I would be able to hear the difference if they suddenly lost everything above 6 kHz.
> 
> 
> What could I do to troubleshoot this?



Your high frequency problem is unique. I can't recall anyone else running into this. (The 20Hz from Center is 25dB below the solution -- meaning it is basically down in the noise -- don't worry about it.)


Just to eliminate the obvious, you ARE taking the mic out of its plastic bag aren't you?










I'm afraid you really do need to work this problem with Anthem tech support. There are things I could have you try like using a different computer or re-installing the firmware in the Anthem, but I'm having trouble picturing any failure which would produce what you are seeing from ARC's normal measurements as well as from Quick Measure while your speakers still sound like they are working properly for normal listening.


The other bizarre thing is that your Quick Measure results are much worse than the normal Measurements. That would seem to eliminate a failure in the sweep tone generation in the Anthem (since the same sweep is used for both).


ETA: Have you tried Quick Measure with the new mic? Is it just as bad as your earlier try of Quick Measure?

--Bob


----------



## allen_bh

So now that I've finally got the HDMI input issue worked (around) out, I've started trying to setup ARC with my system and wonder if the group would mind providing some feedback on tuning. My system is as follows. Speakers: Nautilus 802 LF/RF, HTM1 C, CCM816 (in Cieling) S/R S/L, Velodyne HGS18. Amps: MCIntosh MC303 and MC352. What I'm shooting for is a music setting that is 2 Channel and a 5.1 channel movie setting. I noticed that out of the box with factory defaults and the xovers set to off my 2 channel bass response was somewhat lackluster. After an initial run through ARC, my bass has returned but is not as impressive as it was before (again 2 channel only, no sub). I've tried setting the room gain to a higher value and though it did increase the low-end, it wasn't anywhere near what I'd like. Also, what is the consensus on setting the xover in subs? Should it be disabled so the Anthem can handle that or should I leave it on and set the target value to "flat"? Finally, is the "Max EQ freq" value the upper limit that ARC will try to compensate for? Why does it default to 5,000? Thanks!



Movie Setting -


L/F, R/F, L/S, R/S










Center & Sub -











Music Setting - L/F, R/F only - 2 Channel











Target Customization Settings -


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allen_bh* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So now that I've finally got the HDMI input issue worked (around) out, I've started trying to setup ARC with my system and wonder if the group would mind providing some feedback on tuning. My system is as follows. Speakers: Nautilus 802 LF/RF, HTM1 C, CCM816 (in Cieling) S/R S/L, Velodyne HGS18. Amps: MCIntosh MC303 and MC352. What I'm shooting for is a music setting that is 2 Channel and a 5.1 channel movie setting. I noticed that out of the box with factory defaults and the xovers set to off my 2 channel bass response was somewhat lackluster. After an initial run through ARC, my bass has returned but is not as impressive as it was before (again 2 channel only, no sub). I've tried setting the room gain to a higher value and though it did increase the low-end, it wasn't anywhere near what I'd like. Also, what is the consensus on setting the xover in subs? Should it be disabled so the Anthem can handle that or should I leave it on and set the target value to "flat"? Finally, is the "Max EQ freq" value the upper limit that ARC will try to compensate for? Why does it default to 5,000? Thanks!



You gave quite a dip that aRC has a hard time taming. Try moving your sub using the Quick measure in the tools menu. The better your measured curve is the better job ARC can do. 5K is recommended by Anthem and many of us here use this with great success. However you can experiment with higher correction freq. and see the affect in your charts. For 2 channel I use flat for my front speakers and the bass improved a lot. I am using Paradigm Studio 100s. Not sure how they compare to yours. As for the sub cutoff turn it off or all the way up to the highest freq. as ARC prefers to hear the sub without that on. ARC will set crossover for the sub. Also, lower the gain for 2 channel to the default set by ARC.

John


----------



## allen_bh

Jayray,

The room gain for music/2 channel of 3.945749 is what ARC calculated. I found it odd since it was different from was calculated for 5.1 channels. Is there a different default setting for ARC, or are you referring to what it calculated?


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *allen_bh*
Jayray,

The room gain for music/2 channel of 3.945749 is what ARC calculated. I found it odd since it was different from was calculated for 5.1 channels. Is there a different default setting for ARC, or are you referring to what it calculated?
If that is what ARC calculated for 2ch then leave it and try the other suggestions. Don't worry about diff values for 2ch and 5.1. This isn't unusual, ARC hears different things when 2 ch are playing compared to 5.1.

John

John


----------



## Milt99

allen_bh,

My advice would be to leave things at the 5k default for awhile.

Do some attentive listening for awhile before you tweak with the frequency setting or anything else for that matter to develop a baseline.

I see you've got the ARC "dip" above 5k.

That should be a clue as far as the default value is concerned.


As jayray said, I would concentrate\\experiment with the sub placement\\settings as this is where the correction will yield the most tangible results.

Take one step at a time so that you can concentrate on specific cause and effect.


When you get the bass optimized, try setting the freq. correction slightly below the xover point between the midrange driver and the tweeter.

I'm not saying that you'll like it but every room and system is different and I think it pays to gain experience with how the system actually sounds

as a result of the ARC settings and not to rely exclusively on the graphs to tell you how it sounds.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19528203
> 
> 
> Ok, at least the player tells the tale--it is Matrixed ES. Since the D2v might be misbehaving on the remapping operation (pending matter in my previous post), maybe it is also not fully cognizant of the ES flags when associated with HDMA, either. But really it is of no consequence. The flag means nothing--especially if your system is set to always expand 5.1 sources to 7.1. And no doubt you'd like to choose which method is applied, since others like PLIIx work better than Neo:6 in that regard.



Why does the D2v/50v use NEO:6 to decode DTS-ES? Since I found this statement in the manual I think I figured out what's going on. The Anthem is receiving and decoding DTS-ES just not indicating so, which is confusing. Normally NEO:6 is associated with "low-tech" 2-channel matrixed surround. What's even worse is I can't manually select DTS-ES, it's not even an option!


----------



## SimonNo10

Just wanted to confirm the optimum settings please between the Oppo-BD-83 and the D2v. Running an Epson TW-3200 1080p/24 projector. I have this issue where when I play a dvd it has delays when the picture is panning is like it's trying to catch up, audio is fine. Happens also when I play an .avi file from a usb stick. What I tried last night and it fixed the issue was setting the output resolution setting in the Anthem to Custom and the input info in the projector settings showed 720p. This remained when I played back a Blu-Ray, so changed the setting on the Anthem back to 1920x1080p/24 and no issues with Blu-Ray but the porblems come back for dvd playback and .avi's. At present on the Oppo I have under video settings Source Direct selected and 24 frames also enabled for both Blu-Ray and dvd. I have tried disabling the dvd/24 option and the problem doesn't go away.


So I guess the work around is to create a second setting /input with the output video set to custom on the Anthem when playing back dvd's/.avi's. Is this the only solution and do i have the settings corredt on both units. Thanks


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19636076
> 
> 
> Your high frequency problem is unique. I can't recall anyone else running into this. (The 20Hz from Center is 25dB below the solution -- meaning it is basically down in the noise -- don't worry about it.)
> 
> 
> Just to eliminate the obvious, you ARE taking the mic out of its plastic bag aren't you?



Absolutely. Do I need to take it out of the box as well?











> Quote:
> I'm afraid you really do need to work this problem with Anthem tech support. There are things I could have you try like using a different computer or re-installing the firmware in the Anthem, but I'm having trouble picturing any failure which would produce what you are seeing from ARC's normal measurements as well as from Quick Measure while your speakers still sound like they are working properly for normal listening.
> 
> 
> The other bizarre thing is that your Quick Measure results are much worse than the normal Measurements. That would seem to eliminate a failure in the sweep tone generation in the Anthem (since the same sweep is used for both).
> 
> 
> ETA: Have you tried Quick Measure with the new mic? Is it just as bad as your earlier try of Quick Measure?
> 
> --Bob



I sent this off to Anthem yesterday. Will see what they say.


I went back to my ARC results from before the summer and compared them to the ones taken yesterday. Look at the attached graphs (today's at the top, the old ones at the bottom). The older ones do not exhibit the same drop.


The difference is that the earlier measurement was done using ARC 2.4 and the current one used ARC 3.01. The surrounds are the same Mirage Omnisats as I had before the summer while the fronts are new Elac FS127 which replaced the Swans 6.1s in the older measurement. But again I think we can rule out the speakers since the drop is evident with all of them (except the sub of course).


Nothing else has changed. Same room, same furniture, same power amplifier, same cables, same everything.


It looks like from the start of the drop, the green curve follows the red curve EXACTLY. Does that indicate ARC has been unable to obtain any reading for those frequencies, or does it indicate it has obtained readings but that the calculation has failed?


Also, with all 7 speakers except the sub there is something going on between 10k and 20k at a very low level (see the other 2 zoomed charts).


Finally, the sub - which I replaced last week with a Canton AS225SC - should do much better than the chart suggests. Maybe it is a positioning thing - it is positioned against the back wall and it is a down firing sub.


I will also reinstall v2.4 to see if that changes anything, as well as try Quick Measure. Will post the results.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^There is never any correction applied above your current setting for Max EQ Frequency (Targets window). By default this is 5KHz.


So it is normal for the Calculated and Measured curves to match above that.


Your problem is not with the Calculated results. It is that you have no Measured data higher than that steep drop off in the new measurements.


Since you've got the same results with the new mic, that suggests the audio board in the Anthem is broken. But your earlier result from Quick Measure showed the drop off at a much lower frequency, which makes no sense since it uses the same sweep tones. I.e., if the audio board was broken I'd expect to see the same result from Quick Measure.


If the audio board is broken, and truly cutting off the sweep tones that early for Quick Measure for some bizarre reason, it should be easy for you to hear a difference in the high end of the sweep tones for Quick Measure as compared to when you do a regular Measurement pass.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19638372
> 
> 
> Just wanted to confirm the optimum settings please between the Oppo-BD-83 and the D2v. Running an Epson TW-3200 1080p/24 projector. I have this issue where when I play a dvd it has delays when the picture is panning is like it's trying to catch up, audio is fine. Happens also when I play an .avi file from a usb stick. What I tried last night and it fixed the issue was setting the output resolution setting in the Anthem to Custom and the input info in the projector settings showed 720p. This remained when I played back a Blu-Ray, so changed the setting on the Anthem back to 1920x1080p/24 and no issues with Blu-Ray but the porblems come back for dvd playback and .avi's. At present on the Oppo I have under video settings Source Direct selected and 24 frames also enabled for both Blu-Ray and dvd. I have tried disabling the dvd/24 option and the problem doesn't go away.
> 
> 
> So I guess the work around is to create a second setting /input with the output video set to custom on the Anthem when playing back dvd's/.avi's. Is this the only solution and do i have the settings corredt on both units. Thanks



Turn off DVD/24 in the Oppo and make sure you are sending 1080p/60 (not 1080p/24) from the Anthem to your projector while watching SD-DVDs. I.e., your Video Output configuration in the Anthem should specify 1080p/60 and Video Souce Adjust > Output > Frame Lock should be OFF for that Source.


If that cures your problem then the fault is in the attempt to extract the /24 content from the 480i/60 video coming off the SD-DVD. Due to authoring flakiness on many SD-DVDs, attempting to do that simply won't work or won't work well.

--Bob


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^There is never any correction applied above your current setting for Max EQ Frequency (Targets window). By default this is 5KHz.
> 
> 
> So it is normal for the Calculated and Measured curves to match above that.
> 
> 
> Your problem is not with the Calculated results. It is that you have no Measured data higher than that steep drop off in the new measurements.
> 
> 
> Since you've got the same results with the new mic, that suggests the audio board in the Anthem is broken. But your earlier result from Quick Measure showed the drop off at a much lower frequency, which makes no sense since it uses the same sweep tones. I.e., if the audio board was broken I'd expect to see the same result from Quick Measure.
> 
> 
> If the audio board is broken, and truly cutting off the sweep tones that early for Quick Measure for some bizarre reason, it should be easy for you to hear a difference in the high end of the sweep tones for Quick Measure as compared to when you do a regular Measurement pass.
> 
> --Bob



But if the audio board is broken, would that not also affect normal listening? That drop off should be clearly audible, shouldn't it?

Shouldn't I be getting error messages or other indications if the audio board was kaput?


Did not have time to do a quick measure today so will have to try again tomorrow.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/19642295
> 
> 
> But if the audio board is broken, would that not also affect normal listening? That drop off should be clearly audible, shouldn't it?
> 
> Shouldn't I be getting error messages or other indications if the audio board was kaput?
> 
> 
> Did not have time to do a quick measure today so will have to try again tomorrow.



I would expect all of those to be true. Like I said, your situation is unique.


Let me try another tack: Is your analog path to the speakers identical for bass and and for treble to each speaker? I.e., are you splitting bass and treble at any point for any speaker, such as bi-amping, bi-wiring or anything like that? In particular, if you are bi-amping, make sure the treble amps are turning on during ARC Measurements. As I recall ARC uses the FM/AM Source during Measurements, so if you have Triggers set up to turn on your amps, double check how they are set for the FM/AM Source. If your amps turn on based on input signal level, perhaps they aren't turning on fast enough as the sweep tone advances? Try forcing the amps to be on all the time.

--Bob


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would expect all of those to be true. Like I said, your situation is unique.
> 
> 
> Let me try another tack: Is your analog path to the speakers identical for bass and and for treble to each speaker? I.e., are you splitting bass and treble at any point for any speaker, such as bi-amping, bi-wiring or anything like that? In particular, if you are bi-amping, make sure the treble amps are turning on during ARC Measurements. As I recall ARC uses the FM/AM Source during Measurements, so if you have Triggers set up to turn on your amps, double check how they are set for the FM/AM Source. If your amps turn on based on input signal level, perhaps they aren't turning on fast enough as the sweep tone advances? Try forcing the amps to be on all the time.
> 
> --Bob



Since I am too old to trust my ears 100% I played some test tones off a CD. I will not disclose exactly at which frequency I could no longer hear them,







but I can safely conclude the AVM50 has not gone silent above 5-6kHz. So if something inside it is inop, it affects ARC only.


I am not bi-amping/wiring or anything like that. Also I have only one 7-channel amp and it is definitely powered on during the entire measurement. It is not triggered based on signal level.


The engineering team at Anthem is looking at it.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Turn off DVD/24 in the Oppo and make sure you are sending 1080p/60 (not 1080p/24) from the Anthem to your projector while watching SD-DVDs. I.e., your Video Output configuration in the Anthem should specify 1080p/60 and Video Souce Adjust > Output > Frame Lock should be OFF for that Source.
> 
> 
> If that cures your problem then the fault is in the attempt to extract the /24 content from the 480i/60 video coming off the SD-DVD. Due to authoring flakiness on many SD-DVDs, attempting to do that simply won't work or won't work well.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob. Will try this setting and see what happens. Is that frame lock setting in the other menu by pressing and holding "7" on the remote?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob. Will try this setting and see what happens. Is that frame lock setting in the other menu by pressing and holding "7" on the remote?



Yes. While viewing that specific Source.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Yes. While viewing that specific Source.



Thanks Bob


----------



## daren_p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allen_bh* /forum/post/19636414
> 
> 
> So now that I've finally got the HDMI input issue worked (around) out, I've started trying to setup ARC with my system and wonder if the group would mind providing some feedback on tuning. My system is as follows. Speakers: Nautilus 802 LF/RF, HTM1 C, CCM816 (in Cieling) S/R S/L, Velodyne HGS18. Amps: MCIntosh MC303 and MC352. What I'm shooting for is a music setting that is 2 Channel and a 5.1 channel movie setting. I noticed that out of the box with factory defaults and the xovers set to off my 2 channel bass response was somewhat lackluster. After an initial run through ARC, my bass has returned but is not as impressive as it was before (again 2 channel only, no sub). I've tried setting the room gain to a higher value and though it did increase the low-end, it wasn't anywhere near what I'd like. Also, what is the consensus on setting the xover in subs? Should it be disabled so the Anthem can handle that or should I leave it on and set the target value to "flat"? Finally, is the "Max EQ freq" value the upper limit that ARC will try to compensate for? Why does it default to 5,000? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Movie Setting -
> 
> 
> L/F, R/F, L/S, R/S
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Center & Sub -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Music Setting - L/F, R/F only - 2 Channel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Target Customization Settings -



According to your charts, it appears you should have pretty descent bottom end response. Looks like you have about +4db of room gain almost all the way down. Is part of the problem your use to the "bloated bass" of the non ARC corrected, so when ARC's turned on it sounds thin? If you look at your pre correction graphs, you have around +12db in the lower frequencies. When ARC adjust this to a more resonable +4db room gain, it would sound thin in back to back comparisions. If you give it some listening time, you may find your non corrected to be too bass heavy & bloated.


You do have ARC turned on for each source?


What is your speaker placement in the room like? (ie is it ideal before running ARC?). In my case, its probably more critical as my speakers have 4 side firing drivers per tower but when I first ran ARC, I was not happy with the bottom end. Charts looked good but I wasn't happy (I like a heavy bottom end as well but am learning







). I knew speaker placement & room furniture wasn't ideal. So new furniture, a room re-arrange & re-run ARC. Now this time it was with the new 3.0 ARC (has the flat option), but the corrected results looked very similar. As far as listening goes, it was completely different. I have actually knocked my room gain from ~4 to 3.5 with 2 ch & am still more then happy with the bottom end.


Looks like you have a pretty nice setup, are you fairly experienced with Audio? Reason I ask, is some "newer" guys just expect all source material to be bass heavy, which alot of the time isn't the case. If working properly, ARC will correct so you should be hearing what the artist expects you to hear & sometimes this doesn't include alot of the low frequencies. Have you tried different source material?


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With the HTPC hooked directly up to the TV, it automatically chose 1080p60. Hooking up the HTPC to the D2v, and the HTPC chooses 720p60.
> 
> 
> I was able to force my HTPC to output 1080p60, so I am past that -- although I still have to wonder what EDID the D2v is producing, such that my HTPC didn't think 1080p60 was the optimal resolution.
> 
> 
> John



John


I can tell you that most likely the problem lies in your video drivers to your htpc. But without knowing your configuration it is difficult to say with 100 percent certainty. I can speak from experience in my own set up that I had to tweak my configuration as well as play with the video drivers to get the maximum from my d2v.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allen_bh* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So here's the reply I received from Nvidia. They blame Anthem and here I am again stuck in the middle. I'm quickly starting to regret my purchase....Does anybody have an HTPC with an NVIDIA card connected and working with their D2V??
> 
> 
> ""Thank you for contacting NVIDIA Customer Care.
> 
> 
> This is Edilbert, assisting you in troubleshooting the issue that you are experiencing.
> 
> 
> I understand that you have a ASRock A330ION Windows 7 32-bit based PC that you have connected to the Anthem Audio D2V A/V board via HDMI. I need to inform you that when the D2V is switched off there is a loss of signal and when it is switched back on the signal still wouldn't reach the board. I regret to inform that the only possible workaround for the Windows 7 OS is to restart the PC.
> 
> 
> Regard,
> 
> Edilbert.
> 
> NVIDIA Customer Care
> 
> """



I would suggest the amount you spent on the anthem (well worth it) you go ahead and and sell the nvidia card and get a ATI video card. I have a ATI card and have no problems managing it in a dual video configuration that consist of separate resolutions with my d2v. The problem is not with anthem but the video drivers. I too had problems personally with ndvidia and switched to ATI. Hope that helps.


----------



## allen_bh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/19644723
> 
> 
> I would suggest the amount you spent on the anthem (well worth it) you go ahead and and sell the nvidia card and get a ATI video card. I have a ATI card and have no problems managing it in a dual video configuration that consist of separate resolutions with my d2v. The problem is not with anthem but the video drivers. I too had problems personally with ndvidia and switched to ATI. Hope that helps.



I bought the Gefen HDMI Detective Plus and it's solved all my problems. I would switch cards just to avoid giving Nvidia any of my business after this, but the ION chipset is an all-in-one solution with the video GPU on the motherboard. It's actually pretty good at streaming 1080p, but there are obviously some hotplug issues to work out.


----------



## allen_bh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daren_p* /forum/post/19644453
> 
> 
> Is part of the problem your use to the "bloated bass" of the non ARC corrected, so when ARC's turned on it sounds thin?
> No, it's really night and day how unresponsive the low-end was.
> 
> 
> You do have ARC turned on for each source?
> yes
> 
> 
> What is your speaker placement in the room like?
> My room is about 14' by 19'. I've got the mains about 1.5' from the back wall and 1.5' from the side. It's a bit close, but really don't have much room to play with unfortunately.



@daren,


My comments are all directed at two channel music listening. I prefer to listen to music in 2.0 without a sub since my Nautilus 802's are just so crisp in the low-end. I was using a processor before this that had a "pure direct" mode that I loved with my setup. It didn't do anything with the output from my Sonos zone player 90's digital out other than convert it to analog and provide volume control to my McIntosh amp --no equalization, etc. The bass was crisp and responsive, I wouldn't call it bloated in any way. With the D2V, out of the box, there was no way I could get any decent bass response until I ran ARC and set the target as flat. Once I did, my bass came back but it's just not as good/clear/crisp as it was with my old setup. If I adjusted my room gain to 4.5 it was bloated for sure. Very mid-bass heavy and I didn't like the sound. The default of 3.9 is OK, but I just can't seem to get the low-end to be anywhere near what it was with my old unit. I've got about three tracks that I keep as my reference and I can just tell the difference. I'm doing a direct comparison between the two units. I may test how it sounds with the Sonos' analog out and run direct with the D2V and do a comparison.


What I'd really like to see in the D2V is a mode such as "pure direct" where it only runs the digital signal through the D/A converters and does no other modification of the signal. Sort of a straight pass-through but for digital 2 channel inputs. It's there for the analog inputs why not for the digital?


Now for 5.1, the ARC and D2V have worked wonders. It's a night and day difference between my old processor. I'm very impressed with the way movies and 5.1 sources sound, no complaints with the low-end.


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/19644710
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> I can tell you that most likely the problem lies in your video drivers to your htpc. But without knowing your configuration it is difficult to say with 100 percent certainty. I can speak from experience in my own set up that I had to tweak my configuration as well as play with the video drivers to get the maximum from my d2v.



I originally had the HTPC hooked up to the TAPE input. I moved it to the SAT input, and the problem of it selecting 720p60 instead of 1080p60 went away. Does not really make sense, but that is what happened.


I then discovered that the D2v not only had to be turned on, but had to be on the SAT input, before I turned on the HTPC, or the HTPC would drive it's VGA output instead of it's HDMI output. That is *very* annoying. The D2v should respond to an EDID query even when another input is selected. Furthermore, the D2v should respond to an EDID query even when it is "asleep".


Fortunately, I was also able to solve that deficiency in the D2v. I don't know about Microsoft OSs, but under Linux you can use the nVidia tools to take a EDID snapshot. Once you have that snapshot, you can tell the nVidia drivers to blindly drive the HDMI output using that EDID information, even when there does not appear to be anything hooked up there. So, now I can turn on the HTPC before I turn on the D2v and not end up swearing at the system.



John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allen_bh* /forum/post/19649686
> 
> 
> @daren,
> 
> 
> My comments are all directed at two channel music listening. I prefer to listen to music in 2.0 without a sub since my Nautilus 802's are just so crisp in the low-end. I was using a processor before this that had a "pure direct" mode that I loved with my setup. It didn't do anything with the output from my Sonos zone player 90's digital out other than convert it to analog and provide volume control to my McIntosh amp --no equalization, etc. The bass was crisp and responsive, I wouldn't call it bloated in any way. With the D2V, out of the box, there was no way I could get any decent bass response until I ran ARC and set the target as flat. Once I did, my bass came back but it's just not as good/clear/crisp as it was with my old setup. If I adjusted my room gain to 4.5 it was bloated for sure. Very mid-bass heavy and I didn't like the sound. The default of 3.9 is OK, but I just can't seem to get the low-end to be anywhere near what it was with my old unit. I've got about three tracks that I keep as my reference and I can just tell the difference. I'm doing a direct comparison between the two units. I may test how it sounds with the Sonos' analog out and run direct with the D2V and do a comparison.
> 
> 
> What I'd really like to see in the D2V is a mode such as "pure direct" where it only runs the digital signal through the D/A converters and does no other modification of the signal. Sort of a straight pass-through but for digital 2 channel inputs. It's there for the analog inputs why not for the digital?
> 
> 
> Now for 5.1, the ARC and D2V have worked wonders. It's a night and day difference between my old processor. I'm very impressed with the way movies and 5.1 sources sound, no complaints with the low-end.



Allen,

Email your ARC results file (not just the screen captured charts) to Anthem tech support and ask them to look at the low end output of your speakers (below 20Hz) in the MUSIC configuration to see if they see anything odd. The "FLAT" option for LF/RF is new. Perhaps you have found a bug.


My reaction to your charts would likely be to LOWER Room Gain, not raise it. I believe the Measured peak in the 40-70Hz range is tricking ARC into preserving too much Room Gain in the solution. And 4dB is towards the upper end of Room Gain for a pure, music solution.


Try 2dB of Room Gain and see if you can get a clean Calculated result with that.


By the way, there's a significant amount of correction going on here -- particularly in the 35-80Hz range which is critical to music bass. If the uncorrected curves are what you are used to listening to, I'm not surprised you hear a difference.


ETA: Also double-check your choice of mic placements: #1 at center seating, subsequent positions alternate either side of #1, no two positions closer than 24 inches apart (whether or not sequential) -- I like to use 30", and include some forward/backward shift as well as side to side. The mic should point straight up, with the tip at seated ear height and with the tip away from any blocking or reflecting surfaces such as seat backs or walls. Raise the mic tip a few inches or shift the mic a foot closer to the screen if needed to get the tip away from a seat back. E.g.:


4.........................................5

............................................

........2...........1...........3.........

--Bob


----------



## xMEATx

I am having difficulties scrolling the modes on the fly using the mode button and the up and down arrows....like for PLxx and the others. In fact, the front display on the D2v will not display any of the mode except THX if i set them in the Mode menu. The sound modes display for 2 channel source, but not to 5.1 sources. Do those sound modes only work for two channel sources? I saved user settings, restored factory defaults, re installed v2.10 and restored user settings, but did not help. Any idea?


----------



## xMEATx

Quote:

Originally Posted by *xMEATx*
I am having difficulties scrolling the modes on the fly using the mode button and the up and down arrows....like for PLxx and the others. In fact, the front display on the D2v will not display any of the mode except THX if i set them in the Mode menu. The sound modes display for 2 channel source, but not to 5.1 sources. Do those sound modes only work for two channel sources? I saved user settings, restored factory defaults, re installed v2.10 and restored user settings, but did not help. Any idea?
Never mind, sorry about the post...I read the manual. Manuals can be helpful.


----------



## studlygoorite

My dealer is telling me that they do not make the rack kit/ears for the D2v. Anyone know different?


John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19651796
> 
> 
> My dealer is telling me that they do not make the rack kit/ears for the D2v. Anyone know different?
> 
> 
> John



The question of the day is do you OWN a D2v?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19650944
> 
> 
> Never mind, sorry about the post...I read the manual. Manuals can be helpful.












-Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19651796
> 
> 
> My dealer is telling me that they do not make the rack kit/ears for the D2v. Anyone know different?
> 
> 
> John



If that's true, it's news to me. See "D2v Special Order Versions" on this page:

http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-...-2v/literature 


Note the document that link downloads says "D1", but it applies to all the Statement series processors.


If necessary, call Anthem Customer Support to confirm.


If you already OWN a D2v, and want to swap out the standard, curved wing handles for rack mount ears, you may need to get those direct from Anthem. I don't know if they sell them as parts through dealers. To replace the standard wings with the rack mount handles requires removing the chassis lid to access the bolts from the inside of the chassis. Since the electronics are exposed, you should take static electricity precautions to insure you don't zap any of the boards.


Back in the day, DRHANKZ made his OWN rack mount handles out of the standard wings by removing them and drilling the necessary holes in them himself using a drill press. There's a reason other folks won't leave DRHANKZ alone in the room with their equipment....

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
If that's true, it's news to me. See "D2v Special Order Versions" on this page:

http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-...-2v/literature 


Note the document that link downloads says "D1", but it applies to all the Statement series processors.


If necessary, call Anthem Customer Support to confirm.


If you already OWN a D2v, and want to swap out the standard, curved wing handles for rack mount ears, you may need to get those direct from Anthem. I don't know if they sell them as parts through dealers. To replace the standard wings with the rack mount handles requires removing the chassis lid to access the bolts from the inside of the chassis. Since the electronics are exposed, you should take static electricity precautions to insure you don't zap any of the boards.


Back in the day, DRHANKZ made his OWN rack mount handles out of the standard wings by removing them and drilling the necessary holes in them himself using a drill press. There's a reason other folks won't leave DRHANKZ alone in the room with their equipment....

--Bob
Thanks Bob, I'll go back to my dealer.


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
There's a reason other folks won't leave DRHANKZ alone in the room with their equipment....

--Bob
Go Ahead and Pick on ME - I need it


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Always be polite to a man packing a drill press...









--Bob


----------



## allen_bh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19651796
> 
> 
> My dealer is telling me that they do not make the rack kit/ears for the D2v. Anyone know different?
> 
> 
> John



John,


I have the special order rack mount D2V and what you refer to as the "ears" are not removable as far as I can tell. I would venture to guess that means you can't put them on the normal non-rackmount versions either. Also, there are no rails or anything like that for the rackmount version; it just bolts to your rack from the front panel. It must be pretty sturdy to hold the whole unit up that way. I'm pretty familiar with servers and they typically have some kind of lateral support -- not the D2V rackmount.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19654539
> 
> 
> Always be polite to a man packing a drill press...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



No Drill Press.


I had to use a Vertical Milling machine to cut out the slots in the ears


----------



## allen_bh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *allen_bh* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> I have the special order rack mount D2V and what you refer to as the "ears" are not removable as far as I can tell. I would venture to guess that means you can't put them on the normal non-rackmount versions either. Also, there are no rails or anything like that for the rackmount version; it just bolts to your rack from the front panel. It must be pretty sturdy to hold the whole unit up that way. I'm pretty familiar with servers and they typically have some kind of lateral support -- not the D2V rackmount.



So I just read Bob's response and it certainly explains why the ears don't appear removable...you have to remove the whole cover to get at it.


----------



## MrKegFlex

Just picked up an avm50 w/arc that just came back from bench testing at Anthem, so I'm assuming everything is 100% and it's dumb user configuration problems. I started with the basics and ran hdmi from my SA 8300HD to hdmi1 on the avm50 and ran hdmi from my oppo bdp-83 to hdmi2 on the avm50.


1) Set the audio output on 8300HD to hdmi. I am pretty sure I have it configured correctly on the avm50 side but I get no sound, just the video. Sometimes, the picture will have a bad green tint to it at startup and I have to restart everything to clear it up. When I don't have the bad green tint, the picture is great.


2) Set the audio output on the oppo to lpcm. I get a great picture but seem to be experiencing problems with the audio. I was watching the blu-ray "The Other Guys" and had no problem with the dolby digital. As soon as I switched it to DTS-HD, no audio. Haven't experienced the bad green tint on this setup like I did with the 8300HD.


Did I make some dumb rookie setup mistakes?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrKegFlex* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just picked up an avm50 w/arc that just came back from bench testing at Anthem, so I'm assuming everything is 100% and it's dumb user configuration problems. I started with the basics and ran hdmi from my SA 8300HD to hdmi1 on the avm50 and ran hdmi from my oppo bdp-83 to hdmi2 on the avm50.
> 
> 
> 1) Set the audio output on 8300HD to hdmi. I am pretty sure I have it configured correctly on the avm50 side but I get no sound, just the video. Sometimes, the picture will have a bad green tint to it at startup and I have to restart everything to clear it up. When I don't have the bad green tint, the picture is great.
> 
> 
> 2) Set the audio output on the oppo to lpcm. I get a great picture but seem to be experiencing problems with the audio. I was watching the blu-ray "The Other Guys" and had no problem with the dolby digital. As soon as I switched it to DTS-HD, no audio. Haven't experienced the bad green tint on this setup like I did with the 8300HD.
> 
> 
> Did I make some dumb rookie setup mistakes?



Make sure in the Anthem setup menu you have selected hdmi audio out for the 8300. For the video try a diff cable, that box is finicky. I'm assuming you've done the same for the Oppo. Perhaps Bob will chime in with more suggestions.

John


----------



## barrygordon

Although I used to use HDMI for the DVR's I own (at one time it was the 8300HD) I decided to change the connection to Component Video/Coaxial Audio as I was running out of HDMI Connectors.I did not have any of the problems you describe. I always got correct picture and sound.


I saw no difference in the picture quality (component vs HDMI in) at a final resolution of 1080p to the PJ. The DVR's were set to always put out 1080i as that eliminated a lot of flashing of the screen as things changed. This implies that the AVM-50v is always seeing the same signal as I cjange channels on a DVR


The picture (Video and audio) lockin time is still slow (same as an HDMI connection) but I have noticed the following which I can not understand. When I switch between the two DVR's the picture from the new (switched to DVR) immediately comes up and then goes black for the "delay" I am experiencing. Audio starts after the picture finally comes up.


I do not understand this as it is a component connection so there should be no handshaking, The PJ (output HDMI) has never been touched so its information is still valid. There should be no need to do HDCP or anything like that since the source is a component (analog) connection.


I would appreciate someone explaining to me why the switch is not immediate, and why it seems that the avm-50v immediately makes the switch and then changes its mind and thinks it has to do something uncalled for. Perhaps a firmware update (bug fix) is in order.


----------



## video_bit_bucket

I don't see Dolby NR in the menus, is this a D2 and later feature only?


----------



## jpoet

I have pretty good speakers (Vandersteen 5a mains and Vandersteen surrounds), but a lousy room. One the left wall is a big brick fireplace. The right wall is almost non-existent as it is just a bar type area separating the living room from the kitchen. That being said, it didn't sound too bad with my Anthem AVM 20v2.


The D2v does improve the sound, although not as dramatically as I hoped. It is not that I expected a huge improvement, but one can always hope










ARC also helps. The improvement is subtle, but noticeable. Where it is most noticeable, is when an instrument is played up or down a scale -- the transition is smoother.


John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have pretty good speakers (Vandersteen 5a mains and Vandersteen surrounds), but a lousy room. One the left wall is a big brick fireplace. The right wall is almost non-existent as it is just a bar type area separating the living room from the kitchen. That being said, it didn't sound too bad with my Anthem AVM 20v2.
> 
> 
> The D2v does improve the sound, although not as dramatically as I hoped. It is not that I expected a huge improvement, but one can always hope
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ARC also helps. The improvement is subtle, but noticeable. Where it is most noticeable, is when an instrument is played up or down a scale -- the transition is smoother.
> 
> 
> John



Your room response is very good so ARC doesn't have a lot to do. Most of the work is on peaks and that is easy for ARC to do so not surprised it isn't a big diff. Inspite of the room shape, you're in very good shape. No sub?

John


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19659599
> 
> 
> Your room response is very good so ARC doesn't have a lot to do. Most of the work is on peaks and that is easy for ARC to do so not surprised it isn't a big diff. Inspite of the room shape, you're in very good shape. No sub?
> 
> John



No sub. The Vandersteen 5 speakers are good down to 22Hz, so I would have to get a very expensive sub to improve on that. I would love a Paradigm SUB 1 or 2, but cannot justify the expense.


I do have a tactile transducer in my chair. I tried telling ARC I had a sub, but even when I put the mic right up next to the tactile transducer, it did not seem to deal with it very well. I emailed Anthem, and they recommended telling ARC that I didn't have a SUB, then going into the speaker config and adding the sub afterwards. That seems to work just fine -- although I had to knock down the D2v SUB level control by 15dB to keep the tactile transducer from launching me into space











John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> No sub. The Vandersteen 5 speakers are good down to 22Hz, so I would have to get a very expensive sub to improve on that. I would love a Paradigm SUB 1 or 2, but cannot justify the expense.
> 
> 
> I do have a tactile transducer in my chair. I tried telling ARC I had a sub, but even when I put the mic right up next to the tactile transducer, it did not seem to deal with it very well. I emailed Anthem, and they recommended telling ARC that I didn't have a SUB, then going into the speaker config and adding the sub afterwards. That seems to work just fine -- although I had to knock down the D2v SUB level control by 15dB to keep the tactile transducer from launching me into space
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Well if it sounds good that's all that matters. Interesting setup though and it's good that ARC still works well with it.

John


----------



## MrKegFlex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19657493
> 
> 
> Make sure in the Anthem setup menu you have selected hdmi audio out for the 8300. For the video try a diff cable, that box is finicky. I'm assuming you've done the same for the Oppo. Perhaps Bob will chime in with more suggestions.
> 
> John



I've pretty much given up on the 8300HD via HDMI and did the component/coax route, I can live with that. The oppo is still a strange problem and I would like to get that working. I confirmed with both anthem and oppo that the settings are correct and neither knows why I can get dolby digital audio with lpcm but not dts-hd or trueHD. Anthem thinks the oppo isn't sending the signal for those. Oppo says they do. Oppo says that if I hook straight to the tv and get audio for lpcm dts-hd/trueHD, then the oppo is working fine. Anthem says that isn't a valid test, not sure I understand the technical side well enough to know why.


The anthem has 1.47f loaded by anthem when they did the benchtest and the oppo has the latest official version. I'm debating if reloading the firmware on the anthem and bumping up the oppo to the current beta would be worth my while. It's been an interesting couple of days.


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MrKegFlex* 
I've pretty much given up on the 8300HD via HDMI and did the component/coax route, I can live with that. The oppo is still a strange problem and I would like to get that working. I confirmed with both anthem and oppo that the settings are correct and neither knows why I can get dolby digital audio with lpcm but not dts-hd or trueHD. Anthem thinks the oppo isn't sending the signal for those. Oppo says they do. Oppo says that if I hook straight to the tv and get audio for lpcm dts-hd/trueHD, then the oppo is working fine. Anthem says that isn't a valid test, not sure I understand the technical side well enough to know why.


The anthem has 1.47f loaded by anthem when they did the benchtest and the oppo has the latest official version. I'm debating if reloading the firmware on the anthem and bumping up the oppo to the current beta would be worth my while. It's been an interesting couple of days.








Your Oppo has to send LPCM to the D1.


All you will see on the D1 is LPCM when you hit the SELECT

button on the remote.


----------



## MrKegFlex

Quote:

Originally Posted by *drhankz* 
Your Oppo has to send LPCM to the D1.


All you will see on the D1 is LPCM when you hit the SELECT

button on the remote.
Yes, I do see PCM when I hit select on the remote.


I should clarify that I see PCM and get audio for dolby digital stereo. If I select dts-hd, TrueHD, DD 5.1, etc, I see PCM and get no audio.


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MrKegFlex* 
I've pretty much given up on the 8300HD via HDMI and did the component/coax route, I can live with that. The oppo is still a strange problem and I would like to get that working. I confirmed with both anthem and oppo that the settings are correct and neither knows why I can get dolby digital audio with lpcm but not dts-hd or trueHD. Anthem thinks the oppo isn't sending the signal for those. Oppo says they do. Oppo says that if I hook straight to the tv and get audio for lpcm dts-hd/trueHD, then the oppo is working fine. Anthem says that isn't a valid test, not sure I understand the technical side well enough to know why.


The anthem has 1.47f loaded by anthem when they did the benchtest and the oppo has the latest official version. I'm debating if reloading the firmware on the anthem and bumping up the oppo to the current beta would be worth my while. It's been an interesting couple of days.








You probably have checked this, but it's worth asking and for you to double check as you will not get the OPPO to send HD audio.

You did turn *Secondary Audio to OFF* and you set the OPPO video output to a format *720p or higher* ?

You also set up your source for the OPPO in the AVM50 correctly ?

You have the correct audio mode and HDMI audio input for the OPPO source ?


----------



## Milwaukeesk

To all of you arc experts, could any of you lend some quick advise to this arc run. I've read through most of the thread, but curious on your initial thoughts and any simple suggestions to make anything better. It was run on ARC 3. I'm especially interested in the sub-woofer. Thanks


----------



## Milwaukeesk

I wanted to throw out a quick heads up as I don't know if it's been covered yet but I was able to successfully load firmware 1.47f on my D2 which was one of the units that was upgraded by Anthem from a D1. Not sure if any of the D1 upgraders have been holding off on the upgrade like I was, but all went fine. Just an FYI.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wanted to throw out a quick heads up as I don't know if it's been covered yet but I was able to successfully load firmware 1.47f on my D2 which was one of the units that was upgraded by Anthem from a D1. Not sure if any of the D1 upgraders have been holding off on the upgrade like I was, but all went fine. Just an FYI.



Any upgrade done now will definitely include the hardware that supports V1.47f.


Folks with an older upgrade should still check for either a red video board OR a power supply that does NOT have the big donut transformer. Either one says you are OK.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To all of you arc experts, could any of you lend some quick advise to this arc run. I've read through most of the thread, but curious on your initial thoughts and any simple suggestions to make anything better. It was run on ARC 3. I'm especially interested in the sub-woofer. Thanks



Your sub looks like its internal 80 Hz crossover is still turned on. Bypass that or crank it up to the highest frequency and redo ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Milwaukeesk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19665818
> 
> 
> Your sub looks like its internal 80 Hz crossover is still turned on. Bypass that or crank it up to the highest frequency and redo ARC.
> 
> --Bob



I'll check that. I don't think that's the case, but i'll revisit the switches on the back. Who knows if one got bumped. Thanks Bob.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/19665932
> 
> 
> I'll check that. I don't think that's the case, but i'll revisit the switches on the back. Who knows if one got bumped. Thanks Bob.



After ARC but before you upload, try using the flat subwoofer setting in the Advanced settings option. This will flatten out your low end response as much as possible to frequencies under 20Hz.


----------



## MrKegFlex

Quote:

Originally Posted by *thestewman* 
You probably have checked this, but it's worth asking and for you to double check as you will not get the OPPO to send HD audio.

You did turn *Secondary Audio to OFF* and you set the OPPO video output to a format *720p or higher* ?

You also set up your source for the OPPO in the AVM50 correctly ?

You have the correct audio mode and HDMI audio input for the OPPO source ?
It's definitely worth asking, some of those points are missed on the oppo if you don't catch them in the fine details of the manual. Anthem has audio in set to dig hdmi and auto dig set to no, oppo has the settings you mention.


----------



## smkss

I just performed my first ARC measurement and was ondering if anyone could offer their input.


My sytem consists of an Anthem D2V, Anthem PVA 7, Paradigm Studio

100's, CC690, ADP-590's and a Sub 15.


Unforunately I dont have much felxibility with moving around any of my speakers and it is a big open room in my basement. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Attachment 194610 

Attachment 194611 

Attachment 194612


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smkss* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just performed my first ARC measurement and was ondering if anyone could offer their input.
> 
> 
> My sytem consists of an Anthem D2V, Anthem PVA 7, Paradigm Studio
> 
> 100's, CC690, ADP-590's and a Sub 15.
> 
> 
> Unforunately I dont have much felxibility with moving around any of my speakers and it is a big open room in my basement. Any input would be greatly appreciated!



Post your target window so we can see settings ARC has set.

Try changing the advanced sub setting to Flat and then recalculate. Post the new sub chart to compare.

John


----------



## smkss

 Attachment 194615 


Thanks for your reply Jayray. Here are the targets.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smkss* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your reply Jayray. Here are the targets.



I have the same front speakers and did have a servo 15 before moving to a Sub 25. Try moving the sub cutoff higher, say 120Hz. Now raise the room gain to around 2-2.5 to see the affect on the charts. Do a recalculation after these changes have been made.

John


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19536661
> 
> 
> Is the test signal an LFE track? LFE bypasses the preamp's crossover when ARC is on (can also be set manually when ARC is off). On the other hand if what you're describing above is happening with a signal fed to other channels, i.e. bass that's crossed over, or the sub channel via 6-Ch input, please notify [email protected] .





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19536747
> 
> 
> Here are some screen grabs of the measurment done by the Velodyne SMS-1. The SMS-1 provides a stereo sweep signal that is input into the D2 as a stereo source and played back in Stereo with Analog DSP. In this case I'm using the Music setting, but it does the same for both settings.
> 
> 
> The pictuers show the response with both front channels and sub, front channels only, and sub only. I also attached my ARC charts. Nick, I'll email these along with the ARC file to Anthem.
> 
> 
> Mike



It's been a while since I've been on the forum, but Anthem emailed me back after analyzing my ARC file stating the following:


"Sorry for the late response... just an update: I measured frequency response at the D2 sub output with your file loaded (this leaves room effects out of the equation) and indeed when ARC is on the sub channel crossover is off.


I forwarded this info to our software engineers so it's a matter of when they can get to it - I don't really know but will keep you up to date."


So this confirms that at least in my setup the LPF is not acting as expected. I'm still not entirely sure this is a bug and not a choice made by the ARC software based on my speaker response, but it is good information to know.


As a bit of history, I posted measurments that showed my sub playing up to 120hz in 2 channel DSP even though the D2 speaker config said the subwoofer crossover was set to 60hz.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smkss* /forum/post/19673900
> 
> Attachment 194615
> 
> 
> Thanks for your reply Jayray. Here are the targets.



Looking at your sub placement I would recommend you move it up along the left wall in small increments toward the seating area. As you move it do a quick measure using arc just for the sub. Point the sub into the room ie. perpendicular to the wall. I did this with my servo 15 and sub 25 and both gave me a flatter curve from 100 to 20 Hz. Your room dimensions seem to be similar to mine. This is worth a try to get more punch from a very capable sub 15. This is experimenting I have done on the advice of Anthem.

John


----------



## dmusoke

Hi All:


I seem to have lost the ability to display info on my TV screen whenever I press the remote status select button. This is the case accross all input channels. I can get into the setup screen OK and also can see the status on my Anthem display. What gives?


----------



## AVfile

Mine does that for the secondary HDMI output (I have two displays connected). I only get OSD on the primary HDMI output. It could be just a setup option but I haven't had a chance to look into it. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will reply.


----------



## seang86s

Hi everyone. I finally went ahead and upgraded to a D2v w/ARC from a D2 w/o ARC that had the older video processor board and donut transformer. I have a Windows Media Center PC hooked up to it and I had a hell of a time getting my video settings correct. I use an Gefen HDMI Detective Plus to keep the PC from going crazy when the TV or D2 is power cycled. I did notice something strange. My original D2 would come up as "Statement D2" as the display name in Windows 7, but now the D2v comes up as "AVM 50v". Has anyone else noticed this? I did reprogram my Gefen with the new EDID but I find it strange that the D2v comes up with a different EDID.


Also, one of the minor pluses for me in getting the D2v was dropping the HDMI splitter I was using to drive two displays - a Panasonic plasma and a Panasonic projector. Unfortunately, when I tried hooking up both displays to the HDMI 1 & 2 ports on the D2v, the output is very erratic. Sometimes I get a picture, sometimes I get snow or sync issues. I put the HDMI splitter back and all is well. Note that my plasma is an older model that cannot do 1080p24, but I do have the video output set to 1080p60 which both displays can do but yet I still have erratic display issues. Any ideas?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/19676713
> 
> 
> Mine does that for the secondary HDMI output (I have two displays connected). I only get OSD on the primary HDMI output. It could be just a setup option but I haven't had a chance to look into it. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will reply.



The OSD is only available on the primary HDMI output. No setting will change that.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/19676713
> 
> 
> Mine does that for the secondary HDMI output (I have two displays connected). I only get OSD on the primary HDMI output. It could be just a setup option but I haven't had a chance to look into it. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will reply.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19677483
> 
> 
> The OSD is only available on the primary HDMI output. No setting will change that.



My connection to the TV has always been via HDMI 1 (primary) since I only have one display in my house. What else could make it disappear?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19679204
> 
> 
> My connection to the TV has always been via HDMI 1 (primary) since I only have one display in my house. What else could make it disappear?



Try reinstalling the firmware. That seems to fix this issue.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19679204
> 
> 
> My connection to the TV has always been via HDMI 1 (primary) since I only have one display in my house. What else could make it disappear?



Have you tried reloading factory defaults and then reloading user settings? If not, then give that a try. If that fails, then I would suggest you try reinstalling the firmware like Shrike645 suggested. If it doesn't fix it, then I would suggest you contact Anthem Tech Support. You might have to send it back to them.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19679228
> 
> 
> Try reinstalling the firmware. That seems to fix this issue.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19679333
> 
> 
> Have you tried reloading factory defaults and then reloading user settings? If not, then give that a try. If that fails, then I would suggest you try reinstalling the firmware like Shrike645 suggested. If it doesn't fix it, then I would suggest you contact Anthem Tech Support. You might have to send it back to them.



Shrike, ninja ...good advice. Will do what you've suggested. Shoud I have to re-install FW and loose my ARC settings, I just have to re-upload them, right? No need to re-ARC?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19679567
> 
> 
> Shrike, ninja ...good advice. Will do what you've suggested. Shoud I have to re-install FW and loose my ARC settings, I just have to re-upload them, right? No need to re-ARC?



As long as you have been saving user and/or installer settings after you run ARC, then no, you will not have to re-upload or re-ARC. When you load your user or installer settings, then the results from your last ARC run will be restored. However, if you feel more comfortable re-uploading your last ARC run, then you can do that; but, you shouldn't have to if you have been saving your user and/or installer settings after you run ARC. If you do re-upload your last ARC run, then make sure you save your user and/or installer settings. Whatever you do, you don't have to re-ARC.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19679629
> 
> 
> As long as you have been saving user and/or installer settings after you run ARC, then no, you will not have to re-upload or re-ARC. When you load your user or installer settings, then the results from your last ARC run will be restored. However, if you feel more comfortable re-uploading your last ARC run, then you can do that; but, you shouldn't have to if you have been saving your user and/or installer settings after you run ARC. If you do re-upload your last ARC run, then make sure you save your user and/or installer settings. Whatever you do, you don't have to re-ARC.



Just to be technically correct not all the ARC setting are saved in the user / installer settings but they should not be wiped out with a firmware install. Since you've got the computer and cable hooked up I'd reinstall the last ARC file you did anyway. No Need to remeasure.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19679629
> 
> 
> As long as you have been saving user and/or installer settings after you run ARC, then no, you will not have to re-upload or re-ARC. When you load your user or installer settings, then the results from your last ARC run will be restored. However, if you feel more comfortable re-uploading your last ARC run, then you can do that; but, you shouldn't have to if you have been saving your user and/or installer settings after you run ARC. If you do re-upload your last ARC run, then make sure you save your user and/or installer settings. Whatever you do, you don't have to re-ARC.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19679793
> 
> 
> Just to be technically correct not all the ARC setting are saved in the user / installer settings but they should not be wiped out with a firmware install. Since you've got the computer and cable hooked up I'd reinstall the last ARC file you did anyway. No Need to remeasure.



Great read guys, thanks!!!


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19679824
> 
> 
> Great read guys, thanks!!!



Before you reinstall the firmware, make sure you reload factory defaults first. Don't reload your user savings. Just reload factory defaults and then reinstall the firmware. Once you have successfully reinstalled the firmware, then you can upload your latest ARC run. After that, make sure you save user and/or installer settings.


Also, make sure you remove the power to all HDMI connections. For example, unplug your blu-ray player, your cable box, and anything else that's connected to you processor via HDMI before reinstalling the firmware.


Good luck to you.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19679870
> 
> 
> Before you reinstall the firmware, make sure you reload factory defaults first. Don't reload your user savings. Just reload factory defaults and then reinstall the firmware. Once you have successfully reinstalled the firmware, then you can upload your latest ARC run. After that, make sure you save user and/or installer settings.
> 
> 
> Also, make sure you remove the power to all HDMI connections. For example, unplug your blu-ray player, your cable box, and anything else that's connected to you processor via HDMI before reinstalling the firmware.
> 
> 
> Good luck to you.



OK...I finally got my OSD back but I had to wipe out the firmware and re-install. I lost all my settings and had to re-enter them manually including speaker distances and other custom settings. Re-uploaded ARC just in case.


Apparently, the settings editor doesn't work well with this FW(2.10) for I tried to save my settings before the FW erase and when i re-uploaded my settings, nothing worked and hence the manual re-entry.


All is well now







Thanks to ninja and shrike!


Now if only i can mildly used get a D2v for a steal







...


----------



## scottshd

Hi ,my psp-3 died looking to replace it with the new oppo bdp-93 or the bdp-95 thats comming out in feb.2011. I currently have a D2 and using a dennon 3930ci for music and std. dvd. I;m looking for opinions if with having a d2 there will be any differance in music playback between the 93 or 95?


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *scottshd* 
Hi ,my psp-3 died looking to replace it with the new oppo bdp-93 or the bdp-95 thats comming out in feb.2011. I currently have a D2 and using a dennon 3930ci for music and std. dvd. I;m looking for opinions if with having a d2 there will be any differance in music playback between the 93 or 95?
Only if the analogs matter to you. The 95 has a highly optimized audiophile analog section that the 93 doesn't. The older 83 and newer 93 have similar analog output designs using the same DACs.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19682564
> 
> 
> Now if only i can mildly used get a D2v for a steal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Let me ask a dumb question - what unit do you have?


----------



## MrKegFlex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrKegFlex* /forum/post/19665302
> 
> 
> Yes, I do see PCM when I hit select on the remote.
> 
> 
> I should clarify that I see PCM and get audio for dolby digital stereo. If I select dts-hd, TrueHD, DD 5.1, etc, I see PCM and get no audio.



Received my Keyspan in the mail today, it works perfectly communicating with the anthem. Seems like a lot of people have problems disappear when they reload the firmware so I reloaded 1.47f again to see if it would clear up my problem. No luck, I still get video but no audio on a lpcm stream from my oppo bdp-83 to my avm50.


I attached some bad pics from my camera phone with my settings, am I missing some key setting? I'm now wondering if downgrading the firmware might be of help.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19683779
> 
> 
> Let me ask a dumb question - what unit do you have?



AVM50v in excellent condition...about 1.3 years old. I have an offer from a local dealer to trade in my 50v for a brand new D2v for $5300. Ouch! Ouch! Ouch!


I also have an offer for used used(approx 1 yr old) d2v for $5300 - $5400. This is above my required price of under 5K.


What to do, what to do, what to do....


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19686667
> 
> 
> AVM50v in excellent condition...about 1.3 years old. I have an offer from a local dealer to trade in my 50v for a brand new D2v for $5300. Ouch! Ouch! Ouch!
> 
> 
> I also have an offer for used used(approx 1 yr old) d2v for $5300 - $5400. This is above my required price of under 5K.
> 
> 
> What to do, what to do, what to do....



I'd stick with what you have.


----------



## SimonNo10

One thing that continues to annoy me is when I switch sources (Dvd1 for BD and DVD2 for DVD/.AVI's) I lose the picture or the projector takes awhile to re-establish it's connection with the Anthem (projector is a Epson TW-3200). So if I watch a dvd/.avi on a usb stick (for .avi's) video set to 1920x1080i50 (in Anthem menu) as that gives me smooth video playback with dvd and .avi's, and then switch back to DVD1 to watch a Blu-Ray I either get a black screen or allot of flickering for about 20-30secs then I get the Oppo menu again. I guess for the money I would expect a simple change in input would be much quicker than what it is. It's a small nitpick but prefer it didn't happen.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrKegFlex* /forum/post/19686509
> 
> 
> Received my Keyspan in the mail today, it works perfectly communicating with the anthem. Seems like a lot of people have problems disappear when they reload the firmware so I reloaded 1.47f again to see if it would clear up my problem. No luck, I still get video but no audio on a lpcm stream from my oppo bdp-83 to my avm50.
> 
> 
> I attached some bad pics from my camera phone with my settings, am I missing some key setting? I'm now wondering if downgrading the firmware might be of help.



I saw that your are using *192KHz* on your Oppo player config. I think that is way to much for the older Anthem D2/D1/... My D2 only goes up to 96KHz.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19686667
> 
> 
> AVM50v in excellent condition...about 1.3 years old. I have an offer from a local dealer to trade in my 50v for a brand new D2v for $5300. Ouch! Ouch! Ouch!
> 
> 
> I also have an offer for used used(approx 1 yr old) d2v for $5300 - $5400. This is above my required price of under 5K.
> 
> 
> What to do, what to do, what to do....





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19686928
> 
> 
> I'd stick with what you have.



Not giving up ...I think I can still hold out for a dream


----------



## Milt99

Patience Grasshopper,

Deals are thin this time of year.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/19688158
> 
> 
> Patience Grasshopper,
> 
> Deals are thin this time of year.



When is the best time, i wonder?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19687053
> 
> 
> One thing that continues to annoy me is when I switch sources (Dvd1 for BD and DVD2 for DVD/.AVI's) I lose the picture or the projector takes awhile to re-establish it's connection with the Anthem (projector is a Epson TW-3200). So if I watch a dvd/.avi on a usb stick (for .avi's) video set to 1920x1080i50 (in Anthem menu) as that gives me smooth video playback with dvd and .avi's, and then switch back to DVD1 to watch a Blu-Ray I either get a black screen or allot of flickering for about 20-30secs then I get the Oppo menu again. I guess for the money I would expect a simple change in input would be much quicker than what it is. It's a small nitpick but prefer it didn't happen.



It's not a small nitpick, it's the only fault it has really, but it's a big one.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/19657745
> 
> 
> Although I used to use HDMI for the DVR's I own (at one time it was the 8300HD) I decided to change the connection to Component Video/Coaxial Audio as I was running out of HDMI Connectors.I did not have any of the problems you describe. I always got correct picture and sound.
> 
> 
> I saw no difference in the picture quality (component vs HDMI in) at a final resolution of 1080p to the PJ. The DVR's were set to always put out 1080i as that eliminated a lot of flashing of the screen as things changed. This implies that the AVM-50v is always seeing the same signal as I cjange channels on a DVR
> 
> 
> The picture (Video and audio) lockin time is still slow (same as an HDMI connection) but I have noticed the following which I can not understand. When I switch between the two DVR's the picture from the new (switched to DVR) immediately comes up and then goes black for the "delay" I am experiencing. Audio starts after the picture finally comes up.
> 
> 
> I do not understand this as it is a component connection so there should be no handshaking, The PJ (output HDMI) has never been touched so its information is still valid. There should be no need to do HDCP or anything like that since the source is a component (analog) connection.
> 
> *I would appreciate someone explaining to me why the switch is not immediate, and why it seems that the avm-50v immediately makes the switch and then changes its mind and thinks it has to do something uncalled for. Perhaps a firmware update (bug fix) is in orde*r.




When I first bought my D2v the change was quicker but there was more chance of it not making connection. Since then a firmware upgrade has made the handshake longer but the connection probability greater. I would hope they are working on a fix for the handshake, but how long can one wait without acknowledgment of an anticipated fix? I can only speak for my D2v and my brothers and would bet that the component connection issue would be in the same boat as our problem


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrKegFlex* /forum/post/19686509
> 
> 
> Received my Keyspan in the mail today, it works perfectly communicating with the anthem. Seems like a lot of people have problems disappear when they reload the firmware so I reloaded 1.47f again to see if it would clear up my problem. No luck, I still get video but no audio on a lpcm stream from my oppo bdp-83 to my avm50.
> 
> 
> I attached some bad pics from my camera phone with my settings, am I missing some key setting? I'm now wondering if downgrading the firmware might be of help.



You do get sound from other sources ?

Did you check the max volume for the source in the AVM50 to see if you have sufficient headroom ?

Checked the speaker setup in the OPPO to see if you have the correct speakers setup for 5.1 ?

You have the correct HDMI input selected for the source you are using ?


----------



## snweiler

It seems than many here are using an OPPO bluray with their D2vs so I'm looking for some advice. I'd like to replace my Panasonic BD30 with something newer and was thinking about the Panasonic BD85. The price of these has really dropped lately. If I'm primarily watching blurays and using the D2v video processing to upconvert the occasional DVD will I benefit from spending substantially more for the new OPPO bluray player? I've always assumed that I am better off using the native resolution of the media and letting the D2v do any upconversion but is that really true if I buy the BDP-93? I have a few SACDs that I play so having everything play through one box would be nice. But at 3X the the cost I'm not sure if it is worth it or not. Any thoughts from those already using the BDP-93?


Thanks,

Steve


----------



## slots1

Very silly question. I have an old Rega turntable sitting up on a shelve. I assume that it will not work with the D2v because it does not have a phono preamp. Any suggestions?

I am enjoying setting up my new D2v, great.


----------



## dmorse4765

You can get a phono preamp for less than $30.00. Just plug the preamp outputs to any of the analog inputs on the back. The best bang for the buck is a Cambridge 540 or 640. They are on agon all the time for $100.00. I also got my new D2v yesterday.


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snweiler* /forum/post/19689782
> 
> 
> It seems than many here are using an OPPO bluray with their D2vs so I'm looking for some advice. I'd like to replace my Panasonic BD30 with something newer and was thinking about the Panasonic BD85. The price of these has really dropped lately. If I'm primarily watching blurays and using the D2v video processing to upconvert the occasional DVD will I benefit from spending substantially more for the new OPPO bluray player? I've always assumed that I am better off using the native resolution of the media and letting the D2v do any upconversion but is that really true if I buy the BDP-93? I have a few SACDs that I play so having everything play through one box would be nice. But at 3X the the cost I'm not sure if it is worth it or not. Any thoughts from those already using the BDP-93?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve



IMHO the Oppo is worth every penny...Had the BDP-83 and now enjoying the BDP-93. Awesome stuff...


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmabuse* /forum/post/19693041
> 
> 
> IMHO the Oppo is worth every penny...Had the BDP-83 and now enjoying the BDP-93. Awesome stuff...



In what way? The BDP-93 is almost five times the cost of my Panasonic. Is it really worth the price premium? Is the video quality that much better? The sound quality?


Perhaps the speed? One complaint I have with the Panasonic is how slow it is.


Thanks,


John


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/19693370
> 
> 
> In what way? The BDP-93 is almost five times the cost of my Panasonic. Is it really worth the price premium? Is the video quality that much better? The sound quality?
> 
> 
> Perhaps the speed? One complaint I have with the Panasonic is how slow it is.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> John



I don't know about five times, but its definitely better. Loading times rival the PS3. Video and Sound over HDMI is marginally better, but there's only so much that stuff can improve. Most people get the Oppo for all the formats it can play.


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *drmabuse* 
IMHO the Oppo is worth every penny...Had the BDP-83 and now enjoying the BDP-93. Awesome stuff...
Care to describe or explain any differences or benefits between the BDP-83 and the BDP-93 ?


Why would one go from the BDP -83 to the BDP-93 ?


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *thestewman*
Care to describe or explain any differences or benefits between the BDP-83 and the BDP-93 ?


Why would one go from the BDP -83 to the BDP-93 ?
Most seem to want the analog output benefit but give up ARC to have it. Wouldn't be my choice.

John


----------



## xMEATx

If I have my arc settings crossovers for my mains @ 85 hz, then why would the woofers in the mains play low frequencies, like 20hz, when I play a sweep disk? I unplugged my subs, so I am sure that the main woofers are not being moved passively. Any thoughts?


----------



## Milt99

Quote:

Originally Posted by *snweiler* 
It seems than many here are using an OPPO bluray with their D2vs so I'm looking for some advice. I'd like to replace my Panasonic BD30 with something newer and was thinking about the Panasonic BD85. The price of these has really dropped lately. If I'm primarily watching blurays and using the D2v video processing to upconvert the occasional DVD will I benefit from spending substantially more for the new OPPO bluray player? I've always assumed that I am better off using the native resolution of the media and letting the D2v do any upconversion but is that really true if I buy the BDP-93? I have a few SACDs that I play so having everything play through one box would be nice. But at 3X the the cost I'm not sure if it is worth it or not. Any thoughts from those already using the BDP-93?


Thanks,

Steve
I bought an Oppo 80 because I didn't need the video processing of the 83.

I use the source-direct setting.

The 93 has a different VP chip than the 83, is 3D and Netflix steaming capable.

If you can abide the slow load times with the Panny for a bit longer, Oppo will be coming out with an 80 equivalent in the future.

I also had a PS3 and IMO the PS3 overall had a slightly faster load time than the Oppo.

The Oppo is better at DVD upconversion than the PS3 but how important that is to you I can't say.

I can also say that load times have increased for all Blu-ray discs in the last 8 months or so.

Blame BD Live.

In case you weren't aware, the only reason Oppo stopped producing the 80 and the 83 is that the Sony drive they used was discontinued.

Honestly, if I was buying a BD player today and didn't need\\want multi-format support or region-free capability, I would buy a PS3 slim for $300.

Powerful, solid piece of gear.


----------



## snweiler

DVD upconversion isn't real important to me but which is better? The D2v or the OPPO?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19686928
> 
> 
> I'd stick with what you have.



Looks like I've snagged myself a brand new-in-the-box for $5.3K







. Will be sellin my 50v soon afterwards... Seller had no time to even unpack it because he was so busy at work. He got it last month







. Merry Christmas everyone







!


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19694478
> 
> 
> If I have my arc settings crossovers for my mains @ 85 hz, then why would the woofers in the mains play low frequencies, like 20hz, when I play a sweep disk? I unplugged my subs, so I am sure that the main woofers are not being moved passively. Any thoughts?



Crossovers are slopes and are gradual drop offs of frequencies. So depending on the slope it will continue to play lower frequencies just not at the same power. For example if the slope is 24dB/octave then the signal would be full strength at the crossover (say 80Hz) and 24dB lower at 40Hz. The slopes are usually in 6dB increments, not sure what the ARC's slope is but if it was 6dB/octave you would definitely be able to recognise power at frequencies below the crossover.


Hope this helps. Cheers.


Tony


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19698429
> 
> 
> Looks like I've snagged myself a brand new-in-the-box for $5.3K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Will be sellin my 50v soon afterwards... Seller had no time to even unpack it because he was so busy at work. He got it last month
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Merry Christmas everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !



Merry Christmas to *YOURSELF*
























Do not be disappointed - the two units are both good.


There will be no difference in VIDEO.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snweiler* /forum/post/19695068
> 
> 
> DVD upconversion isn't real important to me but which is better? The D2v or the OPPO?



snweiler ...i thought others would have answered this question already but anyways, here's my take on it.


The scaling chip Oppo uses by (ABT) Anchors Bay Technologies is regarded as the cream of the crop amongst scalers. Now, the one used in the D2v (the VXP by Sigma Designs) is also regarded as a Broadcast grade scaler as well as definately no slouch at all as TV broadcasters use it to upscale legacy 480i programs to 720p or 1080i. This is like asking who is stronger: Superman or the Thor, the god of thunder?


Both scalers are superb and won't disappoint at all since they were reviewed highly. See the reviews of the D2v, which was said "to turn video water into wine..." by some well-respected audio-video magazines. Reading Oppo reviews will get you similar superlatives of its video performance.


Now, preliminary forun reviews of the Oppo BDP-93 say the new Marvell QDEO video chip doesn't quite perfrim as well as the Oppo 83/83SE. Maybe this is due to lack of optimization of the Oppo software but I'm sure they'll continue to tweak it to the nth degree. Watch for the video shootouts between the 83/83Se and the new 93/95 from Oppo.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19698563
> 
> 
> Merry Christmas to *YOURSELF*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do not be disappointed - the two units are both good.
> 
> 
> There will be no difference in VIDEO.



Thanks DrH...I got it to prepare for the purchase of the newer audiophile Oppo BDP-95 once released next february. Since the d2v ADC-DAC stage was rendered as transparent, I'm hoping to use the analog outputs of the 95 into the d2v and with ARC, get the best of both worlds







.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19698621
> 
> 
> Thanks DrH...I got it to prepare for the purchase of the newer audiophile Oppo BDP-95 once released next february. Since the d2v ADC-DAC stage was rendered as transparent, I'm hoping to use the analog outputs of the 95 into the d2v and with ARC, get the best of both worlds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Enjoy your audiophile


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Crossovers are slopes and are gradual drop offs of frequencies. So depending on the slope it will continue to play lower frequencies just not at the same power. For example if the slope is 24dB/octave then the signal would be full strength at the crossover (say 80Hz) and 24dB lower at 40Hz. The slopes are usually in 6dB increments, not sure what the ARC's slope is but if it was 6dB/octave you would definitely be able to recognise power at frequencies below the crossover.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps. Cheers.
> 
> 
> Tony



Thanks for the reply. I am sure that is the case...the output is not very low at all. Thanks again & Merry Christmas.


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19698621
> 
> 
> Thanks DrH...I got it to prepare for the purchase of the newer audiophile Oppo BDP-95 once released next february. Since the d2v ADC-DAC stage was rendered as transparent, I'm hoping to use the analog outputs of the 95 into the d2v and with ARC, get the best of both worlds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



That is my plan as well... Plan to use the balance outputs into the D2v....


----------



## snweiler

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Milt99* 
If you can abide the slow load times with the Panny for a bit longer, Oppo will be coming out with an 80 equivalent in the future.
Has OPPO officially announced that they will make an updated version of the 80? I would probably buy that now if it was available.


Steve


----------



## Yartle

Really appreciate some help in trying to get the USB to serial working, I have an Aten adaptor on Win 7 with the following settings:


Com 5

Bits per second 19200

Data bits 8

Parity none

Stop bits 2

Flow control none


All I'm getting is 'connot find processor', any suggestions??


----------



## benleeys

Hi Guys,


Just to wish you all a very Merry Holiday Season. May all your Anthems give you trouble free pleasures throughout the new year.

















Ben


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Yartle* /forum/post/19700930
> 
> 
> Really appreciate some help in trying to get the USB to serial working, I have an Aten adaptor on Win 7 with the following settings:
> 
> 
> Com 5
> 
> Bits per second 19200
> 
> Data bits 8
> 
> Parity none
> 
> Stop bits 2
> 
> Flow control none
> 
> 
> All I'm getting is 'connot find processor', any suggestions??



Change the bits per second to 115000 and try that. The keyspan adapter has been the most successful one used on this thread. You'll probably be using this for a long while so it might be worth getting.

John


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Change the bits per second to 115000 and try that. The keyspan adapter has been the most successful one used on this thread. You'll probably be using this for a long while so it might be worth getting.
> 
> John



+1^^. Works for me, never a problem...not yet.


----------



## Yartle

Thanks, but no luck. I'm going to try and get another adaptor or PMCIA card to serial when I can get to the shops. I've tried as many settings as i can but just no dice.


----------



## favorini

You may need to run ARC as Administrator, if you aren't already.


----------



## rigman

I have just bought a D2V to replace my Lexicon MC12BHDEQ so I just thought I would say hi.


Now I need to read through the 1060 pages of this thread to pick up all the hints and tips.










I am in the UK and there are not many owners here


Will be using it with a Paradigm sub 2, ABamps 6400, 6200, Oppo BD, JBL SK2-1000 speakers and M&K SS-150 surrounds


Merry Christmas everyone


cheers

Darren


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rigman* /forum/post/19705541
> 
> 
> I have just bought a D2V to replace my Lexicon MC12BHDEQ so I just thought I would say hi.
> 
> 
> Now I need to read through the 1060 pages of this thread to pick up all the hints and tips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am in the UK and there are not many owners here
> 
> 
> Will be using it with a Paradigm sub 2, ABamps 6400, 6200, Oppo BD, JBL SK2-1000 speakers and M&K SS-150 surrounds
> 
> 
> Merry Christmas everyone
> 
> 
> cheers
> 
> Darren



I just replaced my D2 this week with a D2v . Only problem I had was the 2 calibration files were not on the disc they sent. One email to Anthem and about 1 hour later they emailed me the 2 files. you will love their support if you ever need any.


----------



## dhoff01

Hoping I can find some help on this thread. I have a D2v that I use for both HT and 2 channel listening. When listening to vinyl, I have my turntable connected to my phono preamplifier which runs directly to my auxiliary inputs (set to stereo to preserve the all-analog sound). Problem is, my front speakers are monitors (Canton Vento Reference 9s) and therefore I don't get quite the bass extension I'd like to from listening in stereo mode. I also, however, don't want to apply the analog-dsp setting to gain use of the sub, as this would "digitize" my analog playback (say what you will about the capabilities of the Anthem's ARC system and a-d-a conversion - when it comes to vinyl, I'd prefer to keep it unprocessed).


In a perfect world, I would have a second sub, run my phono stage to it, have the sub connected to the auxiliary inputs of the anthem, and use the sub to manually adjust the crossover (at least I think this would solve my problem). But I clearly don't want to do this and would prefer to have my current sub used in my 5.1 HT setup for analog use as well.


In short, can someone tell me if there is a way to have my sub handle the lower frequencies when listening to 2 channel stereo without applying the digital processing?


Thanks,


David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is no way to do that inside the D2v. Bass steering in the D2v is only available when you let it re-digitize your analog audio input. Bass management is done in the digital domain, just like the rest of ARC.

--Bob


----------



## dhoff01

Bob- Is this true even if I wanted my subwoofer to handle the crossover frequency/bass management? In other words, I turn my sub's low pass filter to 'on' and set the sub's dial to 80. Is there a way to allow the D2v to recognize I'm using a subwoofer without it applying ARC or its internal bass management, thereby avoiding the digital processing?


Sorry if I'm asking the same question a different way. Just trying to fully understand my options.


Thanks again,


David


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhoff01* /forum/post/19715897
> 
> 
> Bob- Is this true even if I wanted my subwoofer to handle the crossover frequency/bass management? In other words, I turn my sub's low pass filter to 'on' and set the sub's dial to 80. Is there a way to allow the D2v to recognize I'm using a subwoofer without it applying ARC or its internal bass management, thereby avoiding the digital processing?
> 
> 
> Sorry if I'm asking the same question a different way. Just trying to fully understand my options.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> 
> David



Using ARC in the D2v is the reason we buy a D2v - your knob is dumb


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhoff01* /forum/post/19715897
> 
> 
> Bob- Is this true even if I wanted my subwoofer to handle the crossover frequency/bass management? In other words, I turn my sub's low pass filter to 'on' and set the sub's dial to 80. Is there a way to allow the D2v to recognize I'm using a subwoofer without it applying ARC or its internal bass management, thereby avoiding the digital processing?
> 
> 
> Sorry if I'm asking the same question a different way. Just trying to fully understand my options.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> 
> David



Nope. To get the sub to do the crossover processing you must pass the LF/RF channels THROUGH the sub. This is just one way of cabling to do the bass management (crossover) in some box external to the D2v.


But if you run analog pass through in the D2v (ANALOG-DIRECT), the signals it sends out to the amps are the same as the signals coming in except for main volume control. There is no way to get the D2v to steer some of that ANALOG-DIRECT input signal (e.g., the bass) from the LF/RF channels to the sub. If the input to the D2v is stereo (no LFE or Sub channel content input), then there will be no output at all to the Sub from the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## dhoff01

Drhankz- we all are entitled to our own opinions, but I respectfully disagree with yours. I listen to music in a lot of different ways. If it's a cd, or a digital recording, then I use ARC. Obviously, I use it for movies too. But there's nothing 'dumb' in my opinion about wanting the best of both worlds. Using a turntable with ARC in many ways defeats the purpose of playing vinyl, but I'd prefer not to have two separate systems. Hence the reason for my question.


----------



## dhoff01

Thanks Bob. I think my best solution is to upgrade to full range fronts. But I appreciate the responses.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhoff01* /forum/post/19716019
> 
> 
> Drhankz- we all are entitled to our own opinions, but I respectfully disagree with yours. I listen to music in a lot of different ways. If it's a cd, or a digital recording, then I use ARC. Obviously, I use it for movies too. But there's nothing 'dumb' in my opinion about wanting the best of both worlds. Using a turntable with ARC in many ways defeats the purpose of playing vinyl, but I'd prefer not to have two separate systems. Hence the reason for my question.



Your best bet to do what you want to do is to get true, "full-range", LF/RF speakers.


An alternative is to get a "satellite sub" for each of them. The LF or RF channel goes to the satellite sub on that side, and its crossover extracts the bass for playback in the sub and passes on the rest for playback in the main speaker. Essentially you are adding a powered woofer to each of LF/RF.


When you do ARC, it will not know that you have satellite subs. It will see your main sub as a separate, standalone sub. And it will see your new, improved LF and RF speakers as being more "full range". It will adjust the ARC solution accordingly.


When you play your stereo analog pass through, the main, standalone sub will be unused but the satellite subs on LF and RF will extend their bass range. The D2v is still doing no processing, but the "powered woofer" for each of LF and RF gives you the extended bass. Typically music bass is not as dynamic and doesn't go as low as sound effects (movie) bass, so you may not need as big or capable a satellite sub as your main sub to get a pleasing result.


Note that when you attach a satellite sub to a main speaker like this, you must manually balance the volume from that satellite sub against that main speaker, and you must manually adjust crossover frequency and phase.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19716008
> 
> 
> Nope. To get the sub to do the crossover processing you must pass the LF/RF channels THROUGH the sub. This is just one way of cabling to do the bass management (crossover) in some box external to the D2v.
> 
> 
> But if you run analog pass through in the D2v (ANALOG-DIRECT), the signals it sends out to the amps are the same as the signals coming in except for main volume control. There is no way to get the D2v to steer some of that ANALOG-DIRECT input signal (e.g., the bass) from the LF/RF channels to the sub. If the input to the D2v is stereo (no LFE or Sub channel content input), then there will be no output at all to the Sub from the D2v.
> 
> --Bob



Or


Do not take the sub output from the D2v to the sub.

Wire the sub just like you would wire a stereo preamp using the monitors.

Only negative is you do not get the LFE output for any digital surround you play.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19716095
> 
> 
> Or
> 
> 
> Do not take the sub output from the D2v to the sub.
> 
> Wire the sub just like you would wire a stereo preamp using the monitors.
> 
> Only negative is you do not get the LFE output for any digital surround you play.



Of course either such cabling means ARC sees no Sub when you build the ARC solution.

--Bob


----------



## dhoff01

Bob- going the sat sub route is something I considered, but I think less is more in my case. I've been toying with the idea of getting a pair of the Gallo 3.5s. This might've convinced me.


Thestewman- thanks for the thought, but if I go that route I might as well give up my dream of having one system handle both HT and vinyl. Upgrading my fronts is probably my best route.


----------



## barrygordon

I have an interesting question re a video switching issue. I have two STB's and they are running to the AVM-50v over component with the audio over optical. The STB's are set to convert all transmissions to 1080i (the best they can do) before outputting them over component. They are directly connected to the Anthem on two different input ports.


The Anthem is directly connected to a JVC-RS1 projector.


I assume that


1) There is no handshaking issue from the STB's to the anthem as component does not have anything like that.


2) There is no handshaking between the Anthem and the PJ as that connection never changes.


3) Ergo the switch should be reaonably fast (well under a second).


Here is what I observe.


The audio always switches fast, sometimes the new video appearing "instantly", sometimes not; then the audio stays but the screen goes black and about 5-7 seconds later the video snaps back in. The Projector thinks it is seeing a new signal since I have it set to show when it is looking for a signal to lock onto. This implies to me that the Anthem to PJ connection changed in format or was "broken" to force a handshake.


Can any one verify my assumptions or throw some light on the subject. It's not earth shattering, but for the $$$ these things cost it is ridiculous. I could understand it if the STB's were over HDMI, and they were at one time, at which time they operated the same way.


The only thing I can think of is that the Anthem always forces a re-handshake with the display even if the source is over component, but then WHY? I can freely record any component signal as it does not have the "lossless generation" quality of digital signals. Can anyone verify this?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhoff01* /forum/post/19716213
> 
> 
> Bob- going the sat sub route is something I considered, but I think less is more in my case. I've been toying with the idea of getting a pair of the Gallo 3.5s. This might've convinced me.
> 
> 
> Thestewman- thanks for the thought, but if I go that route I might as well give up my dream of having one system handle both HT and vinyl. Upgrading my fronts is probably my best route.



Yes


I have Genesis 5.3 for the fronts and they have built in powered subs.

So when I use Analog Direct I do not lose anything.

I use Analog Direct for vinyl and hi-rez digital file playback from a DAC.

ARC provides a broader soundstage but the Analog Direct has more air and you hear more ambiance


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/19716247
> 
> 
> I have an interesting question re a video switching issue. I have two STB's and they are running to the AVM-50v over component with the audio over optical. The STB's are set to convert all transmissions to 1080i (the best they can do) before outputting them over component. They are directly connected to the Anthem on two different input ports.
> 
> 
> The Anthem is directly connected to a JVC-RS1 projector.
> 
> 
> I assume that
> 
> 
> 1) There is no handshaking issue from the STB's to the anthem as component does not have anything like that.
> 
> 
> 2) There is no handshaking between the Anthem and the PJ as that connection never changes.
> 
> 
> 3) Ergo the switch should be reaonably fast (well under a second).
> 
> 
> Here is what I observe.
> 
> 
> The audio always switches fast, sometimes the new video appearing "instantly", sometimes not; then the audio stays but the screen goes black and about 5-7 seconds later the video snaps back in. The Projector thinks it is seeing a new signal since I have it set to show when it is looking for a signal to lock onto. This implies to me that the Anthem to PJ connection changed in format or was "broken" to force a handshake.
> 
> 
> Can any one verify my assumptions or throw some light on the subject. It's not earth shattering, but for the $$$ these things cost it is ridiculous. I could understand it if the STB's were over HDMI, and they were at one time, at which time they operated the same way.
> 
> 
> The only thing I can think of is that the Anthem always forces a re-handshake with the display even if the source is over component, but then WHY? I can freely record any component signal as it does not have the "lossless generation" quality of digital signals. Can anyone verify this?



I wonder if there could be some video switching delay. Occasionally I think I hear a mechanical click when changing sources.


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

ok Bob, when is the d3 coming? or is there an upgrade for the d2v?


----------



## dhoff01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19716529
> 
> 
> Yes
> 
> 
> I have Genesis 5.3 for the fronts and they have built in powered subs.
> 
> So when I use Analog Direct I do not lose anything.
> 
> I use Analog Direct for vinyl and hi-rez digital file playback from a DAC.
> 
> ARC provides a broader soundstage but the Analog Direct has more air and you hear more ambiance



Genesis 5.3s? Damn. You must have some system...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/19716732
> 
> 
> ok Bob, when is the d3 coming? or is there an upgrade for the d2v?



Ask Again Later; The Future is Hazy

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/19716732
> 
> 
> ok Bob, when is the d3 coming? or is there an upgrade for the d2v?



I thought there was an upgrade to provide some HDMI 1.4 connections for the D2v in the new year.


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19717022
> 
> 
> Ask Again Later; The Future is Hazy
> 
> --Bob



where have I heard that before


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhoff01* /forum/post/19715352
> 
> 
> In short, can someone tell me if there is a way to have my sub handle the lower frequencies when listening to 2 channel stereo without applying the digital processing?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David



David,


Actually, there are subs that permit both line and LFE inputs separately. One that immediately comes to mind is the Martin Logan Descent and its smaller brother Depth.


You can use the line inputs for your analog listening and the LFE for movies. Run your D2v front outputs to the sub's line inputs and out to your Fronts and the D2v LFE output to the sub's LFE input. The sub's line connections are in stereo.


Hope this helps.

Ben


----------



## benleeys

The paintwork on my D2 remote control has gone sticky after 3 years of usage. Appears Anthem uses Nextel paint on it. When new, it looks good and feels like suede, but Nextel is reported to be toxic. When it ages, it tends to turn sticky. I experienced this some years back on a former pair of speakers. And recently on my Microsoft mouse too. Usage appears mostly discontinued.


Question is, why is Anthem still using it on its D2v remote?


By the way, the paint may be rubbed off with alcohol.


Ben


----------



## lexicon RX7

BOB,(not sure if this is the right forum,but figured i would find you here ,greatly respect your opinion)

I have a AVM50 and had a JVC RS1,the amount of tweaking i could do with the AVM50,I always thought (and everyone else) gave me a great picture.

BOB,your opionion ,will the JVC50 be that much better or will the 40 be good.


----------



## dhoff01

Quote:

Originally Posted by *benleeys*
David,


Actually, there are subs that permit both line and LFE inputs separately. One that immediately comes to mind is the Martin Logan Descent and its smaller brother Depth.


You can use the line inputs for your analog listening and the LFE for movies. Run your D2v front outputs to the sub's line inputs and out to your Fronts and the D2v LFE output to the sub's LFE input. The sub's line connections are in stereo.


Hope this helps.

Ben
Interesting. I was wondering whether that would be possible with my B&W sub, but I only see one set on inputs on the panel. I'll have to research that option further. Thanks!


----------



## Brian Stone

Just upgraded to 2.10 and ran Arc 3.0 and thought I would upload my Arc results to see if anything looked wonky. Thanks.


Brian


----------



## ninja12

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* 
Just upgraded to 2.10 and ran Arc 3.0 and thought I would upload my Arc results to see if anything looked wonky. Thanks.


Brian
Could you also post your Targets View? From the looks of your charts, they look pretty good. Your RF has over a 10 db drop at 40 Hz; but, I wouldn't worry about that too much because I'm pretty sure ARC has set a crossover for your fronts to have the sub playing at the frequency anyway. Based on your chart for your fronts, I would guess ARC probably set your crossover at 60 Hz for your mains to your sub. This is just a guess since you didn't post your Targets View. Your center channel has about a 10 db dip from 600 Hz to 900 Hz. ARC has corrected that as much as it could. If you could maybe make some adjustments to your center to help eliminate that dip, then ARC could correct it completely. Like I said earlier, overall, your charts look good; but, the real test is what your ears are hearing. So, how does it sound to you?


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/19716732
> 
> 
> ok Bob, when is the d3 coming? or is there an upgrade for the d2v?



Some of have been waiting for an "official" upgrade to the D2 that always seems to be just over the horizon.

Ken


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/19720027
> 
> 
> Some of have been waiting for an "official" upgrade to the D2 that always seems to be just over the horizon.
> 
> Ken



I'm Still HAPPY AS A CLAM with my D2


----------



## barrygordon

I also am waiting for the upgrade to the 50v video board. I don't mind waiting but I really hope the chipset they choose has fast switch logic that some chip mfg's are starting to deploy. It caches handshake settings which hopefully will eliminate heanshake delays unless it is the display that is the root cause (which I now suspect).


Still have not got a satisfactory answer to delays in switching between component inputs


----------



## stanger89

I'm sure nobody can really answer this, but since it's been brought (and I haven't been following along), is there serious talk of a new AVM coming out soon? Or is this just the typical speculation? I know how we all tend to get bored as products reach maturity...


Reason I ask is I'm seriously considering picking up a 50V tomorrow to replace my now-aging AVM20. I'm very happy with my 20, but I'm starting to miss HDMI/HBR decoding and ARC more and more. And lets just say now would be a good time for me to buy.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/19719496
> 
> 
> Just upgraded to 2.10 and ran Arc 3.0 and thought I would upload my Arc results to see if anything looked wonky. Thanks.
> 
> 
> Brian



I may sound like a parrot but your sub looks capable of going below 20 Hz so set in the target window the sub high pass setting to FLAT. Post the chart after doing this as I think that could add some more thump to your listening pleasure.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also am waiting for the upgrade to the 50v video board. I don't mind waiting but I really hope the chipset they choose has fast switch logic that some chip mfg's are starting to deploy. It caches handshake settings which hopefully will eliminate heanshake delays unless it is the display that is the root cause (which I now suspect).
> 
> 
> Still have not got a satisfactory answer to delays in switching between component inputs



The video firmware already caches handshake settings. But the handshake is driven by what the Source thinks it has to do and constrained by the response time of the display, and so you can still get retries despite that. There are pauses built into the handshake spec, so a retry takes about 2 seconds even if the data was cached and the retry not really needed.


There is no handshake for Component input, but there IS "sync delay" if the video stream is interrupted -- even if it has the same format when it restarts. The Component analog video input has to re-sync with the new stream, and the digitizer and scaler have to be primed with new data. The video is muted briefly while this happens. Depending on your display, that change may force a new HDMI handshake on the display side (usually not).

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhoff01* /forum/post/19719260
> 
> 
> Interesting. I was wondering whether that would be possible with my B&W sub, but I only see one set on inputs on the panel. I'll have to research that option further. Thanks!


 This special adapter will let you sum two signals to feed the sub. When inserted, add about 6 dB gain on the sub amp to compensate.


ETA: I've been trying to figure out a way to do the phono bypass while still having the benefit of ARC for the Sub EQ. It uses a passive preamp such as this one from Creek (although there are others) connected as shown. It needs some simple internal mods also shown in order to prevent the D2 from becoming an oscillator. And when you select the Phono mode, the D2 needs to have the "phono" input selected and the Volume set to a known value each time.


----------



## tngiloy

Does anyone know of a set-up calibration disc that has a lip-sync section??


I have both the Avia and Spears& Munsil discs and I could not find a lip-sync section.


Thanks,

Tom


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19721042
> 
> 
> I'm Still HAPPY AS A CLAM with my D2



I just sold mine in anticipation of the new one coming out. I figured once it was announced mine would drop more in value, although theres nothing it really needs I just want to be current.


we will have to wait and see.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/19723218
> 
> 
> I just sold mine in anticipation of the new one coming out. I figured once it was announced mine would drop more in value, although theres nothing it really needs I just want to be current.
> 
> 
> we will have to wait and see.



But what are you using now


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/19723183
> 
> 
> Does anyone know of a set-up calibration disc that has a lip-sync section??
> 
> 
> I have both the Avia and Spears& Munsil discs and I could not find a lip-sync section.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



I was just wondering the same thing. Every time I change equipment, lip-sync changes. When I first got my AVM-50v I had a sony ES blu-ray player, and it needed no delay. I just got the Oppo 93, and it needs a delay, and I can't seem to set it perfect....just really close!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19723347
> 
> 
> I was just wondering the same thing. Every time I change equipment, lip-sync changes. When I first got my AVM-50v I had a sony ES blu-ray player, and it needed no delay. I just got the Oppo 93, and it needs a delay, and I can't seem to set it perfect....just really close!



"DVE HD Basics", Blu-Ray. This is the typical sweeping clock arm with a sync tone that should happen precisely at the 12 o'clock position. The audio track is TrueHD 5.1.


If you happen to have a copy of the "Avia Pro", SD-DVD disc set, you can also check lip sync for SD content using the Motion Transitions chart in the Motion section of the 16:9 charts disc (the disc with the all white label). The sync tone should happen precisely as the dot lights up at the 12 o'clock and the 6 o'clock positions. (Avia Pro is no longer in print.)


The new, Disney "WOW", Blu-Ray calibration disc also reportedly has a sync test on it, but I've not actually used that one myself.


--------------------------------------------


For the current firmware on the Oppo BDP-93, I suggest you try 90ms delay in the Anthem. That should zero out the error (bug) in the player. Your display may add a small amount of additional delay. (In comparison, the Oppo BDP-83 requires NO delay adjustment in the Anthem.)

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/19723347
> 
> 
> I was just wondering the same thing. Every time I change equipment, lip-sync changes. When I first got my AVM-50v I had a sony ES blu-ray player, and it needed no delay. I just got the Oppo 93, and it needs a delay, and I can't seem to set it perfect....just really close!



Start playback a little bit later.










Which needs the delay, the audio or the video? If audio, do it in your AVR. If video, outta luck. I would love to have a frame of video delay available (in the AV processor or the BD player), since the audio delays are only positive and cannot fix everything.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lexicon RX7* /forum/post/19719074
> 
> 
> BOB,(not sure if this is the right forum,but figured i would find you here ,greatly respect your opinion)
> 
> I have a AVM50 and had a JVC RS1,the amount of tweaking i could do with the AVM50,I always thought (and everyone else) gave me a great picture.
> 
> BOB,your opionion ,will the JVC50 be that much better or will the 40 be good.



Sorry, but I haven't had a chance to look into either of those projectors.

--Bob


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19723289
> 
> 
> But what are you using now



I ordered a marantz av7005, will be shipping out the d2 next week


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19723688
> 
> 
> Start playback a little bit later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which needs the delay, to audio or the video? If audio, do it in your AVR. If video, outta luck. I would love to have a frame of video delay available (in the AV processor or the BD player), since the audio delays are only positive and cannot fix everything.



The need for video delay is almost always a content problem -- seen most often in the crappy rebroadcasts on cable and satellite TV systems -- but sometimes in poor transfers to disc. There are also some movies out there that have images ahead of audio in some scenes, typically because they lost the originally recorded audio and had to edit some other audio take into the scene. (The theatrical release of "The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly" being a common example.)


The problem with trying to correct content sync errors, of course, is that they almost invariably change scene by scene. I.e., you'd have to constantly tweak the delay up or down to chase the current error in the content. (ETA: Or in the case of crappy cable or satellite TV, every time you change channels.) It's really not worth it. Live with the content errors or don't watch that type of content.


You are not likely to see video delay offered in consumer gear. Think about the size (and speed) of memory buffer you'd have to provide to do it.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dhoff01* 
Thanks Bob. I think my best solution is to upgrade to full range fronts. But I appreciate the responses.
It might be possible to use the D2v room 2 out and a "y" into one input into your sub and use the sub output into the other input into your sub.


You would turn on the 2nd room output when you use analog direct and shut it off when you are using digital processing.


This assumes you have stereo inputs into your sub and you can use the 2nd room into one and the subwoofer output into the other.


It might work...what would be the main issues?


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* 
It might be possible to use the D2v room 2 out and a "y" into one input into your sub and use the sub output into the other input into your sub.


You would turn on the 2nd room output when you use analog direct and shut it off when you are using digital processing.


This assumes you have stereo inputs into your sub and you can use the 2nd room into one and the subwoofer output into the other.


It might work...what would be the main issues?


Mike
Well ANY time you are using the sub for dual purposes like this you will potentially run into the problem that any given volume adjustment in the sub might not work best for both inputs.


Also, you need to be sure that crossover processing *IS* happening in the sub when you are using it as the low end woofer for your main speakers, and that it is *NOT* happening in the sub when you are using it as the LFE output from ARC.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* 
I ordered a marantz av7005, will be shipping out the d2 next week








I would have stayed pat with the D2.


But then I have an old saying - if you can't see and

hear the improvement - then why change


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

Quote:

Originally Posted by *drhankz* 
I would have stayed pat with the D2.


But then I have an old saying - if you can't see and

hear the improvement - then why change








I was gonna upgrade to the d2v but the upgade price was crazy! so It makes more sense to sell and purchace the d2v, but I figured I would wait a few months to see what anthem churns out. In addition I plan on rehabing my room so its good timing


----------



## mookie b

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* 
Start playback a little bit later.










Which needs the delay, the audio or the video? If audio, do it in your AVR. If video, outta luck. I would love to have a frame of video delay available (in the AV processor or the BD player), since the audio delays are only positive and cannot fix everything.
The audio arrives a tad earlier than the video. I think this may be due to the 35 ft hdmi cable to projector, but then again it may be the oppo since it seems more pronounced since I changed blu-ray players.


Thanks for the tip Bob, I'll check one of those out. Like I said I can get close, but as Bob pointed out it does vary slightly by content so its tough to get a universal setting. The calibration videos would at least give me some peace of mind I did the best I could....


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mookie b* 
The audio arrives a tad earlier than the video. I think this may be due to the 35 ft hdmi cable to projector, but then again it may be the oppo since it seems more pronounced since I changed blu-ray players.


Thanks for the tip Bob, I'll check one of those out. Like I said I can get close, but as Bob pointed out it does vary slightly by content so its tough to get a universal setting. The calibration videos would at least give me some peace of mind I did the best I could....
Signals on the cable travel essentially at the speed of light -- instantaneous over a distance like this.


There is a bug in the 93. 90ms delay in the Anthem should do the trick as a workaround.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
"DVE HD Basics", Blu-Ray. This is the typical sweeping clock arm with a sync tone that should happen precisely at the 12 o'clock position. The audio track is TrueHD 5.1.


If you happen to have a copy of the "Avia Pro", SD-DVD disc set, you can also check lip sync for SD content using the Motion Transitions chart in the Motion section of the 16:9 charts disc (the disc with the all white label). The sync tone should happen precisely as the dot lights up at the 12 o'clock and the 6 o'clock positions. (Avia Pro is no longer in print.)


The new, Disney "WOW", Blu-Ray calibration disc also reportedly has a sync test on it, but I've not actually used that one myself.


--------------------------------------------


For the current firmware on the Oppo BDP-93, I suggest you try 90ms delay in the Anthem. That should zero out the error (bug) in the player. Your display may add a small amount of additional delay. (In comparison, the Oppo BDP-83 requires NO delay adjustment in the Anthem.)

--Bob
Thanks. Once again.


Tom


----------



## mookie b

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
Signals on the cable travel essentially at the speed of light -- instantaneous over a distance like this.


There is a bug in the 93. 90ms delay in the Anthem should do the trick as a workaround.

--Bob
90ms was it! Thanks Bob, you're the man!


----------



## Brian Stone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19719590
> 
> 
> Could you also post your Targets View? From the looks of your charts, they look pretty good. Your RF has over a 10 db drop at 40 Hz; but, I wouldn't worry about that too much because I'm pretty sure ARC has set a crossover for your fronts to have the sub playing at the frequency anyway. Based on your chart for your fronts, I would guess ARC probably set your crossover at 60 Hz for your mains to your sub. This is just a guess since you didn't post your Targets View. Your center channel has about a 10 db dip from 600 Hz to 900 Hz. ARC has corrected that as much as it could. If you could maybe make some adjustments to your center to help eliminate that dip, then ARC could correct it completely. Like I said earlier, overall, your charts look good; but, the real test is what your ears are hearing. So, how does it sound to you?



Thanks for the feedback. Re-ran with the Sub High Pass set to flat and attached the new charts including the targets. Not much I can do about the center channel as it's under the TV and I don't have anywhere else to put it.


So far, it sounds great aside from Dolby Volume. I watched Avatar with DV set to Cinema last night and wasn't happy with the results at all. Everything that was supposed to be loud got suppressed. I'm sure there's discussion about DV settings in the thread somewhere, so I'll take some time to search later.


----------



## gasherbrum

Hello Fellas,

I have an AVM 50 that was acquired in July. Wonderful piece, however about a month ago I somehow managed to turn off the OSD menu. I can still get to it on the front of the AVM, but it does not appear on my TV. Anyone have any idea what I've done?


Last night I restored factory defaults, but that didn't seem to help me out. Software is ver. 1.33. Connection is via HDMI, video out config 1 is 1080p/60. The OSD worked for about 4 months no problem, but I'm not sure what I managed to turn off.


Also, when you select an input that is DSP can you save your chosen Mode? I don't think you can, but I wanted to ask.


Thanks,

Jason


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. Re-ran with the Sub High Pass set to flat and attached the new charts including the targets. Not much I can do about the center channel as it's under the TV and I don't have anywhere else to put it.
> 
> 
> So far, it sounds great aside from Dolby Volume. I watched Avatar with DV set to Cinema last night and wasn't happy with the results at all. Everything that was supposed to be loud got suppressed. I'm sure there's discussion about DV settings in the thread somewhere, so I'll take some time to search later.



Brian,

Your target window indicates the sub HPF advanced setting is still set to auto, so does your sub curve.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/19725701
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. Re-ran with the Sub High Pass set to flat and attached the new charts including the targets. Not much I can do about the center channel as it's under the TV and I don't have anywhere else to put it.
> 
> 
> So far, it sounds great aside from Dolby Volume. I watched Avatar with DV set to Cinema last night and wasn't happy with the results at all. Everything that was supposed to be loud got suppressed. I'm sure there's discussion about DV settings in the thread somewhere, so I'll take some time to search later.



Your Targets' View is showing that your sub is still set to Auto instead of Flat. Bring up your Targets' View, click on the Advanced pushbutton, and select Flat. Once you OK the view, make sure you click on recalculate, save the new results, and upload to your D2v. You do not have to re-run ARC after changing from Auto to Flat.


As for your Center Channel, ARC corrected most of that for you, and it's only 1 or 2 db off the target which the human ear can't hear anyway. So, you should be good with that.


As for DV, people are turning off DV. Make sure you go into every source and turn off DV. Once you are done, make sure you save user and/or installer settings.


Overall, you are in good shape. I hope it sounds as good as your charts look.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gasherbrum* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello Fellas,
> 
> I have an AVM 50 that was acquired in July. Wonderful piece, however about a month ago I somehow managed to turn off the OSD menu. I can still get to it on the front of the AVM, but it does not appear on my TV. Anyone have any idea what I've done?
> 
> 
> Last night I restored factory defaults, but that didn't seem to help me out. Software is ver. 1.33. Connection is via HDMI, video out config 1 is 1080p/60. The OSD worked for about 4 months no problem, but I'm not sure what I managed to turn off.
> 
> 
> Also, when you select an input that is DSP can you save your chosen Mode? I don't think you can, but I wanted to ask.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jason



Try reinstalling the firmware for your OSD issue. If that doesn't fix it, and given that it still doesn't work using factory defaults, your unit may need service.


See Setup > Mode Presets for setting the default audio mode for each type of audio input from each Source. (You can still change to something else using the remote, but the default will take effect again if you leave the Source and come back to it. )

--Bob


----------



## gasherbrum




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19725793
> 
> 
> Try reinstalling the firmware for your OSD issue. If that doesn't fix it, and given that it still doesn't work using factory defaults, your unit may need service.
> 
> 
> See Setup > Mode Presets for setting the default audio mode for each type of audio input from each Source. (You can still change to something else using the remote, but the default will take effect again if you leave the Source and come back to it. )
> 
> --Bob



Thank you very much Bob. I'll give that a shot and will report back.


Jason


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/19725701
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> So far, it sounds great aside from Dolby Volume. I watched Avatar with DV set to Cinema last night and wasn't happy with the results at all. Everything that was supposed to be loud got suppressed. I'm sure there's discussion about DV settings in the thread somewhere, so I'll take some time to search later.



I have noticed that your center speaker has a big dip between 500-1.5k. Although ARC has corrected some of it, you should check if there is something wrong with the midrange speaker or it is too inside your cabinet.

The center channel gets most of the dialog which is between 1k-5k.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lexicon RX7* /forum/post/19719074
> 
> 
> BOB,(not sure if this is the right forum,but figured i would find you here ,greatly respect your opinion)
> 
> I have a AVM50 and had a JVC RS1,the amount of tweaking i could do with the AVM50,I always thought (and everyone else) gave me a great picture.
> 
> BOB,your opionion ,will the JVC50 be that much better or will the 40 be good.



Greetings,


I am currently using the JVC RS50 with the AVM50v adn the combination works as well as my previous setup shich consisted of the AVM50v and JVC RS20.


Going from the RS1 to the RS40 or RS50 will be a noticeable improvement with even more setup flexibility.



Regards,


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lexicon RX7* /forum/post/19719074
> 
> 
> BOB,(not sure if this is the right forum,but figured i would find you here ,greatly respect your opinion)



Look who is asking - Mr. Lexicon










I owned every Lexicon Pre/Pro from CP-1 on but I switched to Anthem


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhoff01* /forum/post/19716019
> 
> 
> But there's nothing 'dumb' in my opinion about wanting the best of both worlds. Using a turntable with ARC in many ways defeats the purpose of playing vinyl, but I'd prefer not to have two separate systems. Hence the reason for my question.



I think drhankz was calling your subwoofer control 'dumb' as in it has no CPU behind it. The ARC solution depends on the CPUs built into the D2v.


He wasn't calling you dumb as far as I can see.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/19728715
> 
> 
> I think drhankz was calling your subwoofer control 'dumb' as in it has no CPU behind it. The ARC solution depends on the CPUs built into the D2v.
> 
> 
> He wasn't calling you dumb as far as I can see.



ABSOLUTELY CORRECT - 3 Cheers for *Gordon*


----------



## Orup70

I've had my Anthem D2v for about 4 months and have been very pleased so far (haven't even done ARC yet!). Everything has worked great, except for two DVB-T boxes that I never managed to get a HDMI connection via the Anthem (works directly to the TV but not via the D2v).


BUT, a week or so before Christmas, the color of the TV image began to deteriorate. I wasn't home to watch it myself, but my wife described it as faces got wrong coloration with areas of shifting color and moiré patterns. I'm not sure her description is correct but the the image had "problems" and it was not the kind of digital TV block patterns you get when you have a bad signal.


And before I came home the image was gone completely. Apparently they managed to get it back briefly by switching source back and forth. But after a while it failed again completely with the TV reporting no signal on the HDMI input.


So I tried to find out what was wrong and I think I have tried everything possible. The thing is, the HDMI out 1 of my D2v is dead. No signal. But the HDMI out 2 works. I have tried all combinations of cables between the D2v and the TV and I cannot get anything out of HDMI out 1. And when the problem appeared I had never switched any of the HDMI cables, so I don't think there could be a problem with the cables or broken "pins" etc.


And at the same time I now suddenly have HDMI connection problems like I did with my DVB-T boxes. On every HDMI source the image and sound disappears regularly (on some sources every 4-5 minutes and for some like several times per minute). I supposes the problem is a HDMI handshake. After a few seconds the image and sound returns. But it makes a very bad "user experience".







Sigh!


I should also mention that the sound works whenever there is an image on the HDMI out 2. So a large portion of the video board must be working. I only use HDMI for both sound and image on all sources.


Another reflection is that when I'm in the setup menu I get the HDMI "blackouts" depending on which source I'm coming from (or move to). They all have a slightly different pattern on how often they blackout.


Before Christmas I have never had any problem (apart from the DVB-T boxes described above) with any of my HDMI sources. Not a single HMDI handshake problem. For example I'm using an Oppo BDP-83R as my Blu-Ray player and it now suddenly blacks out almost every minute. Never did before. And I have tried to switch HDMI in from HDMI2 to HDMI6 without any difference. And I have tried to change every HDMI setting from Auto to specific Color Space, Resolution etc to make it easier for the handshake. No difference.


Today I did my first firmware update, with a slight hope it would fix the problem. I updated from the Factory installed 2.08 to the latest 2.10. Everything worked great (thanks Bob for the excellent guides on the firmware update procedure!







)


Unfortunately it didn't fix or change anything. Maybe some of the blackout intervals changed. The TV source got less blackouts and the Oppo got far more blackouts. But it's hard to tell when it's a very random behavior.


So, my conclusion is that I have some major problem with the video processor board and everything points at a hardware failure. Maybe, maybe a Flash Erase would magically fix it but it seems unlikely.


Appart from the (doubtful) therapeutic gains of sharing my situation I just have a question if anyone has had a similar experience and maybe can tell anything about what the result was? I know some of you have had just physical connection problems with the video board and have fixed it by "tightening" the board(s). I think the HDMI out 1 is a daughter board and it might be loose (in my dreams?). But the suddenly appearing HDMI blackouts?


I'm located in Sweden and the official dealer is in Denmark. So I would prefer any solution that didn't require me to send the unit to Anthem in Canada or even to the dealer i Denmark. But it doesn't look very good now.







And I had planned to finally spend the Christmas doing my first run of ARC. No so...


I will of course inform the Athem support but any ideas or similar experiences is highly appreciated. Or maybe, just some kind words!










/ Påhl


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/19727485
> 
> 
> I have noticed that your center speaker has a big dip between 500-1.5k. Although ARC has corrected some of it, you should check if there is something wrong with the midrange speaker or it is too inside your cabinet.
> 
> The center channel gets most of the dialog which is between 1k-5k.



I'm sorry but I believe dialog is mostly in the 100hz. to 2.2khz. range


----------



## studlygoorite

Can anyone please take a look at my 2 ARC results for my subs, I'm still trying to find the correct location for them? With ARC2 I get a nice kick to the chest with loud music, but with ARC I don't get the kick but it seems deeper. With ARC2 both of my Servo 15" Subs are beside and slightly behind me pointing towards the front of the room while ARC I have the subs in the middle of each long wall pointing toward the middle of the room. Can I not get the best of both worlds, the kick to the chest and the deepness? Just the Targets for ARC are attached, no room for ARC 2. If needed I can attach in another reply they are almost identical except ARC has a cutoff of 80 for the subs in ARC2.


Thanks, John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can anyone please take a look at my 2 ARC results for my subs, I'm still trying to find the correct location for them? With ARC2 I get a nice kick to the chest with loud music, but with ARC I don't get the kick but it seems deeper. With ARC2 both of my Servo 15" Subs are beside and slightly behind me pointing towards the front of the room while ARC I have the subs in the middle of each long wall pointing toward the middle of the room. Can I not get the best of both worlds, the kick to the chest and the deepness? Just the Targets for ARC are attached, no room for ARC 2. If needed I can attach in another reply they are almost identical except ARC has a cutoff of 80 for the subs in ARC2.
> 
> 
> Thanks, John



The first chart has a better measurement in that you have more dB from 100 to 20 Hz which should give you more punch.

John


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by studlygoorite

Can anyone please take a look at my 2 ARC results for my subs, I'm still trying to find the correct location for them? With ARC2 I get a nice kick to the chest with loud music, but with ARC I don't get the kick but it seems deeper. With ARC2 both of my Servo 15" Subs are beside and slightly behind me pointing towards the front of the room while ARC I have the subs in the middle of each long wall pointing toward the middle of the room. Can I not get the best of both worlds, the kick to the chest and the deepness? Just the Targets for ARC are attached, no room for ARC 2. If needed I can attach in another reply they are almost identical except ARC has a cutoff of 80 for the subs in ARC2.


Thanks, John




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19729638
> 
> 
> The first chart has a better measurement in that you have more dB from 100 to 20 Hz which should give you more punch.
> 
> John



Looks to me like there is no Calculated curve to see. Only the Measured and Target curves are present.

If this is what you uploaded you probably should open the ARC files you want to test, listen to, and then recalculate and save each one as a separate ARC file. Then post each of the files here with the GREEN Calculated curve showing.Then Upload the file you want to test and listen to the D2v.

Also what happened to the room gain in the Music Configuration ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Orup70* /forum/post/19729207
> 
> 
> I've had my Anthem D2v for about 4 months and have been very pleased so far (haven't even done ARC yet!). Everything has worked great, except for two DVB-T boxes that I never managed to get a HDMI connection via the Anthem (works directly to the TV but not via the D2v).
> 
> 
> BUT, a week or so before Christmas, the color of the TV image began to deteriorate. I wasn't home to watch it myself, but my wife described it as faces got wrong coloration with areas of shifting color and moiré patterns. I'm not sure her description is correct but the the image had "problems" and it was not the kind of digital TV block patterns you get when you have a bad signal.
> 
> 
> And before I came home the image was gone completely. Apparently they managed to get it back briefly by switching source back and forth. But after a while it failed again completely with the TV reporting no signal on the HDMI input.
> 
> 
> So I tried to find out what was wrong and I think I have tried everything possible. The thing is, the HDMI out 1 of my D2v is dead. No signal. But the HDMI out 2 works. I have tried all combinations of cables between the D2v and the TV and I cannot get anything out of HDMI out 1. And when the problem appeared I had never switched any of the HDMI cables, so I don't think there could be a problem with the cables or broken "pins" etc.
> 
> 
> And at the same time I now suddenly have HDMI connection problems like I did with my DVB-T boxes. On every HDMI source the image and sound disappears regularly (on some sources every 4-5 minutes and for some like several times per minute). I supposes the problem is a HDMI handshake. After a few seconds the image and sound returns. But it makes a very bad "user experience".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sigh!
> 
> 
> I should also mention that the sound works whenever there is an image on the HDMI out 2. So a large portion of the video board must be working. I only use HDMI for both sound and image on all sources.
> 
> 
> Another reflection is that when I'm in the setup menu I get the HDMI "blackouts" depending on which source I'm coming from (or move to). They all have a slightly different pattern on how often they blackout.
> 
> 
> Before Christmas I have never had any problem (apart from the DVB-T boxes described above) with any of my HDMI sources. Not a single HMDI handshake problem. For example I'm using an Oppo BDP-83R as my Blu-Ray player and it now suddenly blacks out almost every minute. Never did before. And I have tried to switch HDMI in from HDMI2 to HDMI6 without any difference. And I have tried to change every HDMI setting from Auto to specific Color Space, Resolution etc to make it easier for the handshake. No difference.
> 
> 
> Today I did my first firmware update, with a slight hope it would fix the problem. I updated from the Factory installed 2.08 to the latest 2.10. Everything worked great (thanks Bob for the excellent guides on the firmware update procedure!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Unfortunately it didn't fix or change anything. Maybe some of the blackout intervals changed. The TV source got less blackouts and the Oppo got far more blackouts. But it's hard to tell when it's a very random behavior.
> 
> 
> So, my conclusion is that I have some major problem with the video processor board and everything points at a hardware failure. Maybe, maybe a Flash Erase would magically fix it but it seems unlikely.
> 
> 
> Appart from the (doubtful) therapeutic gains of sharing my situation I just have a question if anyone has had a similar experience and maybe can tell anything about what the result was? I know some of you have had just physical connection problems with the video board and have fixed it by "tightening" the board(s). I think the HDMI out 1 is a daughter board and it might be loose (in my dreams?). But the suddenly appearing HDMI blackouts?
> 
> 
> I'm located in Sweden and the official dealer is in Denmark. So I would prefer any solution that didn't require me to send the unit to Anthem in Canada or even to the dealer i Denmark. But it doesn't look very good now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I had planned to finally spend the Christmas doing my first run of ARC. No so...
> 
> 
> I will of course inform the Athem support but any ideas or similar experiences is highly appreciated. Or maybe, just some kind words!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> / Påhl



The bad news is that you have a hardware problem. The good news is that we've had several reports here of folks being able to fix a problem just like this by reseating the Main HDMI output (which is a daughter board) into its socket in the video board. Presumably the daughter board got jiggled loose in shipment.


Now it is unusual for a failure like this to happen after several months of problem free use, so it is also possible that your daughter board has just failed and needs to be replaced, or even that that the video board itself needs to be replaced. But the reseating is certainly the first thing to try.


To do that you need to remove the lid. That's not hard. The daughter board is right at the top so the access is easy with the lid off, but you will be touching the electronics so you need to take static electricity precautions to make sure you don't accidentally zap the boards you touch. If you are comfortable doing that, then you can do the reseating yourself, otherwise you will need to get the unit to your dealer.


Since you installed firmware while the hardware was in a strange state, my recommendation would be to RE-install that firmware again after reseating the Main HDMI output daughter board just to make sure everything is properly recognized by the install. Then see if it fixes the problem.


The HDMI connection problems you experienced are normal if the output is broken because the copy protection stuff has to work all the way through from the source to the display.


Get in touch with Anthem tech support (which in your case is probably the European distributor for your area) and they can walk you through all of this as well as get replacement boards to you as needed. If you have to swap out the video board itself (the big board right at the top), that's only marginally more complicated -- more screws to remove and cables to disconnect.


While waiting to reach Anthem, also get a flashlight and carefully inspect the HDMI sockets and the HDMI plugs for signs of pin damage. A damaged plug means you should discard the cable.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19729778
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> Originally Posted by studlygoorite
> 
> Can anyone please take a look at my 2 ARC results for my subs, I'm still trying to find the correct location for them? With ARC2 I get a nice kick to the chest with loud music, but with ARC I don't get the kick but it seems deeper. With ARC2 both of my Servo 15" Subs are beside and slightly behind me pointing towards the front of the room while ARC I have the subs in the middle of each long wall pointing toward the middle of the room. Can I not get the best of both worlds, the kick to the chest and the deepness? Just the Targets for ARC are attached, no room for ARC 2. If needed I can attach in another reply they are almost identical except ARC has a cutoff of 80 for the subs in ARC2.
> 
> 
> Thanks, John
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks to me like there is no Calculated curve to see. Only the Measured and Target curves are present.
> 
> If this is what you uploaded you probably should open the ARC files you want to test, listen to, and then recalculate and save each one as a separate ARC file. Then post each of the files here with the GREEN Calculated curve showing.Then Upload the file you want to test and listen to the D2v.
> 
> Also what happened to the room gain in the Music Configuration ?



I was saving the files before I calculated but I did calculate before I uploaded. I moved the subs yet again and am going to give this one a try. I was just monkeying around with the room gain for music earlier. I now have my subs pointing towards the back wall at arms length on either side of me and I sit 4' from the back wall. I don't think it looks too bad, any thoughts?


John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/19725701
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. Re-ran with the Sub High Pass set to flat and attached the new charts including the targets. Not much I can do about the center channel as it's under the TV and I don't have anywhere else to put it.
> 
> 
> So far, it sounds great aside from Dolby Volume. I watched Avatar with DV set to Cinema last night and wasn't happy with the results at all. Everything that was supposed to be loud got suppressed. I'm sure there's discussion about DV settings in the thread somewhere, so I'll take some time to search later.



Brian:


In my case, I turn Dolby Volume processing to OFF. That should enable you to listen to your ARC system w/o interruptions.


----------



## buckley44

Is there any way to pass 3d through the d2 with a sony projector? and has anyone had any luck using a hdmi switcher or does it create more problems with handshakes.


----------



## dhoff01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> ABSOLUTELY CORRECT - 3 Cheers for Gordon



I never said anyone was calling me dumb. Instead I was pointing out that there is nothing 'dumb' about wanting to avoid ARC when using a sub for vinyl. Doing otherwise would digitize the analog playback, which to me defeats the purpose of having a turntable.


I greatly appreciate the benefit of ARC and the quality of the D2v's DACs. But many of us D2v owners have collections that go beyond the digital realm...


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19731858
> 
> 
> Is there any way to pass 3d through the d2 with a sony projector? and has anyone had any luck using a hdmi switcher or does it create more problems with handshakes.



Greetings,


I am currently using the Samsung BD-C7900 for 3D playback. The Samsung has two HDMI outputs, one carries video (and audio), the other just audio. I have the video output connected directly to my JVC RS50 (HDMI 2 input) while the audio output is connected to my Anthem.


The process is seamless. All of my other components continue to run through the Anthem to the projector via the HDMI 1 input.


Regards,


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *buckley44* 
Is there any way to pass 3d through the d2 with a sony projector? and has anyone had any luck using a hdmi switcher or does it create more problems with handshakes.
What Sony PJ do you have?


If it is the Sony's VPL-VW90ES - then like Ralph says

you have to run a HDMI Cable directly to the PJ.


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19732738
> 
> 
> What Sony PJ do you have?
> 
> 
> If it is the Sony's VPL-VW90ES - then like Ralph says
> 
> you have to run a HDMI Cable directly to the PJ.



Greetings,


He sent me a PM earlier today (prior to my response here) and he is referring to the VW90ES.



Regards,


----------



## Orup70




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19730434
> 
> 
> The bad news is that you have a hardware problem. The good news is that we've had several reports here of folks being able to fix a problem just like this by reseating the Main HDMI output (which is a daughter board) into its socket in the video board. Presumably the daughter board got jiggled loose in shipment.
> 
> 
> Now it is unusual for a failure like this to happen after several months of problem free use, so it is also possible that your daughter board has just failed and needs to be replaced, or even that that the video board itself needs to be replaced. But the reseating is certainly the first thing to try.
> 
> 
> To do that you need to remove the lid. That's not hard. The daughter board is right at the top so the access is easy with the lid off, but you will be touching the electronics so you need to take static electricity precautions to make sure you don't accidentally zap the boards you touch. If you are comfortable doing that, then you can do the reseating yourself, otherwise you will need to get the unit to your dealer.
> 
> 
> Since you installed firmware while the hardware was in a strange state, my recommendation would be to RE-install that firmware again after reseating the Main HDMI output daughter board just to make sure everything is properly recognized by the install. Then see if it fixes the problem.
> 
> 
> The HDMI connection problems you experienced are normal if the output is broken because the copy protection stuff has to work all the way through from the source to the display.
> 
> 
> Get in touch with Anthem tech support (which in your case is probably the European distributor for your area) and they can walk you through all of this as well as get replacement boards to you as needed. If you have to swap out the video board itself (the big board right at the top), that's only marginally more complicated -- more screws to remove and cables to disconnect.
> 
> 
> While waiting to reach Anthem, also get a flashlight and carefully inspect the HDMI sockets and the HDMI plugs for signs of pin damage. A damaged plug means you should discard the cable.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob! If it's just a loose daughter board, or even if it's broken, it would be a relatively easy fix if Anthem allows me to reseat or replace the board myself. Fingers crossed!


Usually when you open the case of any electronic device, the warranty becomes void. I suppose I should wait for the Anthem support to come back to me. But it's very tempting to try reseating the daughter board, just in case. Do you know if Anthem allows opening and reseating the board without voiding the warranty?


I'm quite used to handling hardware, even if I'm mostly "stuck" with programming iPads/iPhones in my company. But I feel more worried when it's my own equipmen and I know how much I paid for it.










Your thoughts about the HDMI connection problems as related to the copy protection getting upset because of the the bad output sounds very plausible. It would also explain why I got way more problems when playing a Blu-Ray movie than playing a DVD or watching TV.


I will also check the HDMI sockets and plugs but I will have to get new reading specs to actually see anything. They are sooo tiny!










/ Påhl


----------



## buckley44

yes i have the sony vw90es on the way. if i hook it up directly for the oppo to the projector for watching movies or blu ray how can i get my comcast tv through so that i can watch shows on the projector?


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19735068
> 
> 
> yes i have the sony vw90es on the way. if i hook it up directly for the oppo to the projector for watching movies or blu ray how can i get my comcast tv through so that i can watch shows on the projector?



You need to run a second HDMI cable to the projector...


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks Bob on your settings for the Oppo BD-83 and watching .avi's and dvd material, it has improved the motion but it's not 100% but I can live with that.


Just want to confirm the optimal video settings when watching Blu-Rays. Current projector is the Epson TW-3200 (1080p) and the Oppo BD-83. In the Oppo video menu I have video ouput set to Source Direct and Deep colour on (36bits dithered) and 24p turned on. Also slected 4:4:4 in the Oppo and on the Anthem . Is this all correct?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19735610
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob on your settings for the Oppo BD-83 and watching .avi's and dvd material, it has improved the motion but it's not 100% but I can live with that.
> 
> 
> Just want to confirm the optimal video settings when watching Blu-Rays. Current projector is the Epson TW-3200 (1080p) and the Oppo BD-83. In the Oppo video menu I have video ouput set to Source Direct and Deep colour on (36bits dithered) and 24p turned on. Also slected 4:4:4 in the Oppo and on the Anthem . Is this all correct?
> 
> 
> Thanks



There's no pat answer for this. Different settings can give subtle differences, but what you are using should work fine.


In my 83 I use explicit 1080p, with 16:9 Wide/Auto, 1080p/24 Auto (even though I can't send /24 to my display). My display works better if the Oppo is Dithering its output.


By the way, 36-bit (Dithered) is not an available choice.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> By the way, 36-bit (Dithered) is not an available choice



I wasn't 100% sure if it was dithered or not as I'm at work and was relying on memory







. Thanks for the confirmation. I'm most likely upgrading the Oppo to their new 95 model due out early next year. Should make for a great pairing.


Have a Happy New Year Bob and everyone and thank you for all the help you have provided me this year.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19687493
> 
> 
> Not giving up ...I think I can still hold out for a dream



Just curious, why are you tempted to upgrade the 50v to the D2v? There's not as much difference as there was in the past with the 50 and the D2. Anthem has kindly trickled down most of the Statement technology to the 50v. The only things lacking are the different DACs, 192k upsampling, and Statement cosmetics (faceplate).


NOTE: I say "different" not "updgraded" because absolutely nobody has come forward and stated that the D2v sounds significantly BETTER than the 50v (not even guys from Anthem). Also "higher spec" DACs and OpAmps will give a different sound but whether it is better or not is highly subjective to the whims of the particular listener and their environment.


I strongly considered the D2v because I just bought a new 50v and could easily have afforded the extra $2k for the Statement D2v (and I did buy Statement amps) but couldn't justify it for the minor differences.


In typical audiophile mania, I scoured the net for some type of review or user posting hinting at the possibility of what I might be missing out on by not getting the Statement pre and was unable to find anything from anyone who has heard both and compared both. So I bought the 50v.


Regards,

Stefan


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As best I can recall, we've had all of 2 posters here who found the time to compare the audio from an AVM 50v against a D2v, with both properly set up (including ARC) in a configuration of other gear and listening room they were familiar with.


Both reported they could hear the improvement in audio from the D2v. But that's hardly a statistically significant sample.


There's no doubt that Anthem's gear is in the "diminishing returns" region. To some degree you have to have faith that Anthem has actually put the extra money into things that matter. I think their track record is pretty good in that regard.


All that said, anyone who tries to swap out *MY* D2v for an AVM 50v is going to have to get past the hounds.

--Bob


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19741306
> 
> 
> 
> All that said, anyone who tries to swap out *MY* D2v for an AVM 50v is going to have to get past the hounds.
> 
> --Bob




I could use an extra D2v, I'll bring some steaks and my best Crocodile Dundee double finger move....


----------



## ultra 150 pilot

imo the upsampler works very well especially with sat or cable shows, only found on the d2 and d2v if im correct.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/19741613
> 
> 
> I could use an extra D2v, I'll bring some steaks and my best Crocodile Dundee double finger move....



Good thing I didn't mention the sharks with laser beams attached to their heads.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765

Bob, I am attaching the email I just sent to Anthem on thurs. regarding my new D2v that is less than a week old. They are out of the office until monday and then CES is coming very soon. Can you think of anything else I can check before they get back to me.

This morning I went to turn on my D2V and it does not power on. I have done the following:

checked that I have 120 power to the end of the IEC connector

powered the unit off with the switch on the back of the unit for several minutes

tried powering on with the zone 1 or main power switch on front panel

tried powering on with the remote

unplugged the unit for 10 minutes

No lights etc. coming on.

I used it most of the day yesterday and all was fine and no problems at all. This am it just failed to come on. Any ideas.

Andrew helped me last week regarding a couple .cal files. This unit is less than one week old and has had no problems until today.

I have thought of reinstalling the firmware but I don't believe it is possible if the unit will not power on. Thanks much.


Dick morse


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19741976
> 
> 
> Bob, I am attaching the email I just sent to Anthem on thurs. regarding my new D2v that is less than a week old. They are out of the office until monday and then CES is coming very soon. Can you think of anything else I can check before they get back to me.
> 
> This morning I went to turn on my D2V and it does not power on. I have done the following:
> 
> checked that I have 120 power to the end of the IEC connector
> 
> powered the unit off with the switch on the back of the unit for several minutes
> 
> tried powering on with the zone 1 or main power switch on front panel
> 
> tried powering on with the remote
> 
> unplugged the unit for 10 minutes
> 
> No lights etc. coming on.
> 
> I used it most of the day yesterday and all was fine and no problems at all. This am it just failed to come on. Any ideas.
> 
> Andrew helped me last week regarding a couple .cal files. This unit is less than one week old and has had no problems until today.
> 
> 
> Dick morse



Disconnect EVERYTHING from the back of the unit. Wait about 1/2 hour. Move the unit to a different wall power plug that you know for sure has juice and try to power it up there with only the power plug connected. Don't forget to turn the back panel power switch back ON and try using a front panel button to try to power up as well with the remote (press Main button first on remote). This is to eliminate the possibility that the unit has shut down due to a cable short, or that you have a voltage problem on your original wall socket.


If you can't get it to power up this way, then the unit needs hardware service.


If you CAN get the unit to power up, return it to its original location and carefully recheck the cables you are attaching to it for any possibility of shorts.

--Bob


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19742022
> 
> 
> Disconnect EVERYTHING from the back of the unit. Wait about 1/2 hour. Move the unit to a different wall power plug that you know for sure has juice and try to power it up there with only the power plug connected. Don't forget to turn the back panel power switch back ON and try using a front panel button to try to power up as well with the remote (press Main button first on remote). This is to eliminate the possibility that the unit has shut down due to a cable short, or that you have a voltage problem on your original wall socket.
> 
> 
> If you can't get it to power up this way, then the unit needs hardware service.
> 
> 
> If you CAN get the unit to power up, return it to its original location and carefully recheck the cables you are attaching to it for any possibility of shorts.
> 
> --Bob



I will try the 1/2 hour unplugging. I already tried a different wall socket. Being an electrician of 48 years I even checked the plug polarity as a precaution. I also has 122 volts to the end of the IEC female cord end. I did not try it with all cables unplugged but I will tonight. Thanks again.


Dick Morse



Tried all of your suggestions,same result. Will wait to hear from anthem. Thanks again and happy new year.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/19741279
> 
> 
> Just curious, why are you tempted to upgrade the 50v to the D2v? There's not as much difference as there was in the past with the 50 and the D2. Anthem has kindly trickled down most of the Statement technology to the 50v. The only things lacking are the different DACs, 192k upsampling, and Statement cosmetics (faceplate).
> 
> 
> NOTE: I say "different" not "updgraded" because absolutely nobody has come forward and stated that the D2v sounds significantly BETTER than the 50v (not even guys from Anthem). Also "higher spec" DACs and OpAmps will give a different sound but whether it is better or not is highly subjective to the whims of the particular listener and their environment.
> 
> 
> I strongly considered the D2v because I just bought a new 50v and could easily have afforded the extra $2k for the Statement D2v (and I did buy Statement amps) but couldn't justify it for the minor differences.
> 
> 
> In typical audiophile mania, I scoured the net for some type of review or user posting hinting at the possibility of what I might be missing out on by not getting the Statement pre and was unable to find anything from anyone who has heard both and compared both. So I bought the 50v.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Stefan



It looks like we went through the same thought process and came to the same conclusion. I bought my 50v purely on faith. The only way I could get one was to order it through a custom installer. In following this thread, it appeared to me that this was normal as I can only remember a few posts mentioning that they listened to an Anthem product at a dealer. I don't remember any stating that the dealer had both prepros set up for audition. It came down to the comparison chart on the Anthem site and like you, I decided the differences weren't worth the asking price. Bob says the differences are there and a couple people could notice them. I believe him. However, my faith has limits and without being able to audition both prepros, I had nothing to justify a D2v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The AVM 50v is no slouch by any means. You guys will undoubtedly be VERY happy with it!









--Bob


----------



## Stevetd

I went from an Integra 80.1 to the 50v to the D2v all in the exact same setup. There was definitely a sonic improvement with each upgrade. And although the improvement going from 50v to the D2v was far less dramatic as going from the 80.1 to the 50v it was still very much there.


----------



## AVfile

I figured my story would bring a few of you out of the woodwork









Thanks for the input.


I'm definitely impressed with the 50v + A2 + A5, coming from a Lexicon receiver.

My Anthem dealer also had NONE of the products in the showroom either.


PS: I have a separate system for 2-channel audio, with a Sonic Frontiers Line-3 tube preamp. If the HT were my only system I probably would have sprung for the D2v since I gather it has more "audiophile" grade/matching components. I just wish my dealer had one to audition.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/19741279
> 
> 
> Just curious, why are you tempted to upgrade the 50v to the D2v? There's not as much difference as there was in the past with the 50 and the D2. Anthem has kindly trickled down most of the Statement technology to the 50v. The only things lacking are the different DACs, 192k upsampling, and Statement cosmetics (faceplate).
> 
> 
> NOTE: I say "different" not "updgraded" because absolutely nobody has come forward and stated that the D2v sounds significantly BETTER than the 50v (not even guys from Anthem). Also "higher spec" DACs and OpAmps will give a different sound but whether it is better or not is highly subjective to the whims of the particular listener and their environment.
> 
> 
> I strongly considered the D2v because I just bought a new 50v and could easily have afforded the extra $2k for the Statement D2v (and I did buy Statement amps) but couldn't justify it for the minor differences.
> 
> 
> In typical audiophile mania, I scoured the net for some type of review or user posting hinting at the possibility of what I might be missing out on by not getting the Statement pre and was unable to find anything from anyone who has heard both and compared both. So I bought the 50v.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Stefan



Stefan:


I want a D2v for the best possible A/D conversion of my analog signals from my Oppo SE and soon BD-95 player from Oppo. It was the upsampling feature that sold me to want to get the D2v. I have the 50v and it sounds superb but the A/D/A process isn't neutral imo when using the analog outputs of my SE. I'm *hoping* the D2v will make it neutral and transparent.


You have to understand that I buy gear every 10+ years or so. I'm currently almost done upgrading my system I've had for the past 15 years or so. The D2v is one fo those items I'd like to keep around for that long(if possible).


Thanks,

David


----------



## barrygordon

But the disks really have digital signals only. So the oppo players must decode the digital signals and run D/A to put out the analogs. You are assuming that the oppo has better D/A than the 50v or D2v. That has got to be a subjective view (which I respect, but do not share.)


----------



## Orup70




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barrygordon* /forum/post/19745407
> 
> 
> But the disks really have digital signals only. So the oppo players must decode the digital signals and run D/A to put out the analogs. You are assuming that the oppo has better D/A than the 50v or D2v. That has got to be a subjective view (which I respect, but do not share.)



Even if the Oppo _did_ have better D/A than the 50v or D2v - using the HDMI out from the Oppo would sound better still. Not by much and possibly not even noticeably but a straight digital route all the way from the disc through the ARC code is the cleanest path possible.


Or use Analogue Direct but then you loose the ARC room treatment and that will sound worse in most environments. And this still requires the Oppo (or any high end CD player) to have way better D/A conversion than the 50v or D2v plus an almost perfectly treated room.


/ Påhl


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *AVfile* 
I figured my story would bring a few of you out of the woodwork









Thanks for the input.


I'm definitely impressed with the 50v + A2 + A5, coming from a Lexicon receiver.

My Anthem dealer also had NONE of the products in the showroom either.


PS: I have a separate system for 2-channel audio, with a Sonic Frontiers Line-3 tube preamp. If the HT were my only system I probably would have sprung for the D2v since I gather it has more "audiophile" grade/matching components. I just wish my dealer had one to audition.
If you are close to Mississauga, my dealer has a D2v and even some MRX receivers. pm me if you are interested.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick from Anthem has just posted in the MRX thread that the MRX 900 has been put on indefinite hold due to the soft market in "receivers" at the nearly $5000 price point.


That suggests to me that there WILL be a successor to the AVM 50v at some point, although we have no hint yet as to when that might be. Prior to this it looked like the MRX 900 would take over for the AVM 50v, leaving the D2v or any successor to it as the only separate processor.


This also suggests the AVM 50v should retain its resale value longer.

--Bob


----------



## peechus

Thinking I could figure out this simple problem, after several months I'm holler'n uncle. I have a Seagate HD media player receiving Netflix movies over the internet. I'm hooked up to Anthem D2v via HDMI. The problem is no sound. The picture is fine. I can choose optical out of the Seagate and complete the HDMI picture. I've checked by substituting known working inputs, different cables, restarts, latest firmware and finally moving the Seagate to a TV set with an HDMI input and that bad boy comes to life..picture AND sound. I'm ready to try any idea. Sure I can continue listening via optical but hey "that ain't right."


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *peechus* /forum/post/19749433
> 
> 
> Thinking I could figure out this simple problem, after several months I'm holler'n uncle. I have a Seagate HD media player receiving Netflix movies over the internet. I'm hooked up to Anthem D2v via HDMI. The problem is no sound. The picture is fine. I can choose optical out of the Seagate and complete the HDMI picture. I've checked by substituting known working inputs, different cables, restarts, latest firmware and finally moving the Seagate to a TV set with an HDMI input and that bad boy comes to life..picture AND sound. I'm ready to try any idea. Sure I can continue listening via optical but hey "that ain't right."



Give Anthem a call and see if they have any history with this media player.


My guess is that the media player is not handling the HDMI connection properly when there is a receiver between it and the TV.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19749256
> 
> 
> Nick from Anthem has just posted in the MRX thread that the MRX 900 has been put on indefinite hold due to the soft market in "receivers" at the nearly $5000 price point.
> 
> 
> That suggests to me that there WILL be a successor to the AVM 50v at some point, although we have no hint yet as to when that might be. Prior to this it looked like the MRX 900 would take over for the AVM 50v, leaving the D2v or any successor to it as the only separate processor.
> 
> 
> This also suggests the AVM 50v should retain its resale value longer.
> 
> --Bob



Nick chimed back in and said there will be a new AVM and D series just not in 2011.







I always thought the MRX 900 was kind of strange from a marketing perspective. I assumed it would have been based on the same platform that will show up in the next generation pre/pros. I know it takes a lot of time to design a new platform from scratch but it seems a little weird to me that the receivers have quite a few features that the flagship pre/pros won't see for at least another year. I was really hoping for the new generation next fall.


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU* /forum/post/19743381
> 
> 
> It looks like we went through the same thought process and came to the same conclusion. I bought my 50v purely on faith. The only way I could get one was to order it through a custom installer. In following this thread, it appeared to me that this was normal as I can only remember a few posts mentioning that they listened to an Anthem product at a dealer. I don't remember any stating that the dealer had both prepros set up for audition. It came down to the comparison chart on the Anthem site and like you, I decided the differences weren't worth the asking price. Bob says the differences are there and a couple people could notice them. I believe him. However, my faith has limits and without being able to audition both prepros, I had nothing to justify a D2v.



I debated long and hard before getting the D2v instead of the AVM 50v. There is a distributor in Dallas who had both set up in a viewing/listening room and I went there and listened to both processors. I bought the D2v, to my ears there was a difference in audio quality. They are both quality pieces, so we should all be proud of what we have. I like the D2v, that is not a knock on the 50v.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19753909
> 
> 
> I debated long and hard before getting the D2v instead of the AVM 50v. There is a distributor in Dallas who had both set up in a viewing/listening room and I went there and listened to both processors. I bought the D2v, to my ears there was a difference in audio quality. They are both quality pieces, so we should all be proud of what we have. I like the D2v, that is not a knock on the 50v.



It is a rare dealer than can DEMO both.


I buy if I can hear or see the difference.


Enjoy the D2v


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brian Stone* /forum/post/19719496
> 
> 
> Just upgraded to 2.10 and ran Arc 3.0 and thought I would upload my Arc results to see if anything looked wonky. Thanks.
> 
> 
> Brian



I am getting ready to load ARC 3.0 on my D2v. Any quirks/tricks I need to be aware of? Don't think I want Dolby volume on.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19754267
> 
> 
> I am getting ready to load ARC 3.0 on my D2v. Any quirks/tricks I need to be aware of? Don't think I want Dolby volume on.



Leave DV off, it still is a pain. No tricks for 3.0 except for the Quick Measure feature and that is easy to use. If you haven't used any of the betas this will be a pleasant surprise in how it corrects everything as well as below 20 Hz. If your sub is capable, change the sub high pass setting to Flat from Auto and see if the graph changes. You should do a new measurement to get the full benefit of v3.0.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19753949
> 
> 
> It is a rare dealer than can DEMO both.
> 
> 
> I buy if I can hear or see the difference.
> 
> 
> Enjoy the D2v



Or "feel" as in the case of your floor bouncers.









--Bob


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19755765
> 
> 
> Leave DV off, it still is a pain. No tricks for 3.0 except for the Quick Measure feature and that is easy to use. If you haven't used any of the betas this will be a pleasant surprise in how it corrects everything as well as below 20 Hz. If your sub is capable, change the sub high pass setting to Flat from Auto and see if the graph changes. You should do a new measurement to get the full benefit of v3.0.
> 
> John



Thanks John. This will be my first software upgrade since I installed the D2v last May. My sub is a Velodyne DD12.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19756089
> 
> 
> Or "feel" as in the case of your floor bouncers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



CES is this week - Maybe they will have some BIGGER ONES


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Leave DV off, it still is a pain. No tricks for 3.0 except for the Quick Measure feature and that is easy to use. If you haven't used any of the betas this will be a pleasant surprise in how it corrects everything as well as below 20 Hz. If your sub is capable, change the sub high pass setting to Flat from Auto and see if the graph changes. You should do a new measurement to get the full benefit of v3.0.
> 
> John



I used flat on my subs and the flat sub graph and the auto graph did not appear all that different. So, I just left it at auto. Maybe I did something wrong?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I used flat on my subs and the flat sub graph and the auto graph did not appear all that different. So, I just left it at auto. Maybe I did something wrong?



Try to listen to some low LFE material you are familiar with as this is the best way to tell.

John


----------



## studlygoorite

When I use Quick Measure my graph defaults to something like -50db to -150db and I have to change it with my laptop curser to try and achieve 0 db to 80db. Is this the same for everyone else? Also, is there a way to bring the highs down a little, with ARC on all sounds great but when I turn up my music the highs tend to scream at me and I can't find a way to tame them.


Thanks, John


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19742022
> 
> 
> Disconnect EVERYTHING from the back of the unit. Wait about 1/2 hour. Move the unit to a different wall power plug that you know for sure has juice and try to power it up there with only the power plug connected. Don't forget to turn the back panel power switch back ON and try using a front panel button to try to power up as well with the remote (press Main button first on remote). This is to eliminate the possibility that the unit has shut down due to a cable short, or that you have a voltage problem on your original wall socket.
> 
> 
> If you can't get it to power up this way, then the unit needs hardware service.
> 
> 
> If you CAN get the unit to power up, return it to its original location and carefully recheck the cables you are attaching to it for any possibility of shorts.
> 
> --Bob



Andrew at Anthem sent me a email today instructing me to reinstall the firmware even though I could not power the unit on. It worked and 15 minutes later everything was good.


Dick


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19757663
> 
> 
> Andrew at Anthem sent me a email today instructing me to reinstall the firmware even though I could not power the unit on. It worked and 15 minutes later everything was good.
> 
> 
> Dick



THAT's interesting. You didn't even have to Flash Erase first? Cool!

--Bob


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19753909
> 
> 
> I debated long and hard before getting the D2v instead of the AVM 50v. There is a distributor in Dallas who had both set up in a viewing/listening room and I went there and listened to both processors. I bought the D2v, to my ears there was a difference in audio quality. They are both quality pieces, so we should all be proud of what we have. I like the D2v, that is not a knock on the 50v.



I think it's great that you had the opportunity to listen to both. That's the way the world should be. I've been to a couple of audiophile shows since I purchased the 50v. Anthem was nowhere to be found at them, but I came away from them feeling pretty good about my equipment choices and room setup. There were only two systems that I thought sounded better and more than a few that I thought sounded worse than mine. Of course they had limited set up time in a hotel room working against them. I came away knowing that the months of tweaking my room meant more to my overall sound than any equipment I could add. Which leads me to believe that no matter what Anthem prepro you purchase, ARC is the killer app. It helps you tweak your room and then takes care of the problems that are left over. No one should have buyers remorse with either prepro.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19757728
> 
> 
> THAT's interesting. You didn't even have to Flash Erase first? Cool!
> 
> --Bob



No flash erase needed. Andrew explained the firmware update will trigger the power on. Reinstall firmware and it turned on immediately. If I was installing a different version of firmware I may have had to flash erase. He said somehow the firmware got corrupted. All is well now.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19756935
> 
> 
> When I use Quick Measure my graph defaults to something like -50db to -150db and I have to change it with my laptop curser to try and achieve 0 db to 80db. Is this the same for everyone else? Also, is there a way to bring the highs down a little, with ARC on all sounds great but when I turn up my music the highs tend to scream at me and I can't find a way to tame them.
> 
> 
> Thanks, John



Andrew has informed me that yes indeed I am supposed to hit Autoscale and then adjust the db settings with the mouse.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19762770
> 
> 
> No flash erase needed. Andrew explained the firmware update will trigger the power on. Reinstall firmware and it turned on immediately. If I was installing a different version of firmware I may have had to flash erase. He said somehow the firmware got corrupted. All is well now.



Opinions needed on my charts.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Opinions needed on my charts.



Where are the charts?

John


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19764770
> 
> 
> Opinions needed on my charts.



I would reduce the Max EQ Freq from 8k to 5k, as all the responses have a deep rolloff above that point that suggests it is the limit of your mic/preamp/whatever it is. But flattening it will probably lead to unnecessary boost.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19764973
> 
> 
> I would reduce the Max EQ Freq from 8k to 5k, as all the responses have a deep rolloff above that point that suggests it is the limit of your mic/preamp/whatever it is. But flattening it will probably lead to unnecessary boost.



Thank you Roger. I had it at 5000 and tried 8000 for the screenshots. I have already returned to 5000.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19765041
> 
> 
> Thank you Roger. I had it at 5000 and tried 8000 for the screenshots. I have already returned to 5000.



Can you re-post the graphs with the Calculated response? This would be the green line that ARC has calculated for your room. I agree about leaving the max EQ at 5K. Good sub response,btw.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19765142
> 
> 
> Can you re-post the graphs with the Calculated response? This would be the green line that ARC has calculated for your room. I agree about leaving the max EQ at 5K. Good sub response,btw.



Here are the 5k


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19765210
> 
> 
> Here are the 5k



Now that I look at the charts more closely I don't remember the drop off at 5k like I did with my previous D2. I wonder if it is a mic problem with my D2v.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19765327
> 
> 
> Now that I look at the charts more closely I don't remember the drop off at 5k like I did with my previous D2. I wonder if it is a mic problem with my D2v.



That could be the problem and sending anthem your ARC file results (not the pics here) will help them resolve the problem and maybe give you a new mic. I assume the 60Hz crossover values are the ones ARC picked? You didn't change these yourself, did you?


Otherwise, your graphs look superb indeed! How does it sound?


----------



## dmorse4765

I did not change the crossovers. That is what arc set them as. I think I will send them the files tomorrow. The sound is superb.


Dick


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19765210
> 
> 
> Here are the 5k



Your charts look really good. You have a winner here. Enjoy!!!!!!


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did not change the crossovers. That is what arc set them as. I think I will send them the files tomorrow. The sound is superb.
> 
> 
> Dick



Dmorse, what sub(s) do you use?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19765210
> 
> 
> Here are the 5k



What version of ARC are you running? From the looks of your charts, it appears to be an older version of ARC. If you are running an older version of ARC, then download the latest version, 3.0.1, and rerun ARC. You will probably enjoy the results of the latest version of ARC better.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19766510
> 
> 
> Dmorse, what sub(s) do you use?



2 SVS PB 12/2. This is a very large room with over 10,000 cubic feet. The speakers also have 1 10" per speaker. I have had them 3 years and they have been in and on every wall in the room. Using quick measure I found the best location for both. They are located in a corner beside each other.


Dick


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19766557
> 
> 
> what version of arc are you running? From the looks of your charts, it appears to be an older version of arc. If you are running an older version of arc, then download the latest version, 3.0.1, and rerun arc. You will probably enjoy the results of the latest version of arc better.



3.0.1


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19766628
> 
> 
> 3.0.1



hmmmmm..... I was expecting your chart to look like this.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post19515116 


On your chart for example between 70 and 80, the frequency lines are a multiple of 2. On my chart, for 3.0.1, the frequency lines, between 70 and 80, increase by 1.


Also, the next time you run ARC, you should probably increase your test volume a little. The goal is to get close to 75 db for your basic volume. If you hit 74 db, that's good because the -1 Reference Level Offset will cause it to be 74 db.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19767007
> 
> 
> hmmmmm..... I was expecting your chart to look like this.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post19515116
> 
> 
> On your chart for example between 70 and 80, the frequency lines are a multiple of 2. On my chart, for 3.0.1, the frequency lines, between 70 and 80, increase by 1.
> 
> 
> Also, the next time you run ARC, you should probably increase your test volume a little. The goal is to get close to 75 db for your basic volume. If you hit 74 db, that's good because the -1 Reference Level Offset will cause it to be 74 db.



Actually my RS meter reading for the test level is 80 db just to get the charts where they are. I am going to double check every thing this afternoon. I had deleted my previous arc version. Maybe some how it got restored. Thanks for your input


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19767216
> 
> 
> Actually my RS meter reading for the test level is 80 db just to get the charts where they are. I am going to double check every thing this afternoon. I had deleted my previous arc version. Maybe some how it got restored. Thanks for your input



The RS meter is good to get you started. However, ARC is a lot more accurate than the RS meter, and it's hearing frequencies from 20 Hz on up. So now, you are at the point that you can put your RS meter to the side and let ARC guide you from this point. You can increase the test volume level up by probably 2 db and see if that will get you to the basic volume level of 75 db (74 db). However, don't change anything else because your charts look very good. Just increase the test volume and rerun ARC.


----------



## dmorse4765

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ninja12* 
The RS meter is good to get you started. However, ARC is a lot more accurate than the RS meter, and it's hearing frequencies from 20 Hz on up. So now, you are at the point that you can put your RS meter to the side and let ARC guide you from this point. You can increase the test volume level up by probably 2 db and see if that will get you to the basic volume level of 75 db (74 db). However, don't change anything else because your charts look very good. Just increase the test volume and rerun ARC.
Ninja, I now have a level setting of +13 and here are the results. I may have to post in 2 separate post. I did check my version number,see attached. I am still concerned about the dropoff after 5k. I know before it was much less severe.


----------



## dmorse4765

And 1 more


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* 
And 1 more
Superb, I'd say! Now, if only you can replac the mic....


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19769265
> 
> 
> Ninja, I now have a level setting of +13 and here are the results. I may have to post in 2 separate post. I did check my version number,see attached. I am still concerned about the dropoff after 5k. I know before it was much less severe.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/19769322
> 
> 
> And 1 more



Looks good. Send your .arc file, not the charts, to Anthem Tech Support, so that they can take a look. They will send you a replacement mic if they determine the problem is with your mic.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19770909
> 
> 
> Looks good. Send your .arc file, not the charts, to Anthem Tech Support, so that they can take a look. They will send you a replacement mic if they determine the problem is with your mic.



Already contacted Andrew at Anthem. He said he does not see any problem with the mic. ???????


Dick


----------



## budeone

There is a lot of talk about 4k tv coming out. Will the avm-50V be able to use that higher resolution?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/19774481
> 
> 
> There is a lot of talk about 4k tv coming out. Will the avm-50V be able to use that higher resolution?



NO WAY is my Prediction - but there can always be an upgraded video board


----------



## budeone

That is what I was afraid of. Thanks for the quick response.


----------



## noysboy

Question about 2 subs.


I have a new (used) D2 with ARC. I also have two subs. #1 is an Epik conquest and #2 is a CHT 18.2. Together, these are currently connected to a Behringer DCX2496 to crossover, time align and EQ them...and they sound great together. Im only using a single sub output from the D2.


My question. Does ARC calibrate BOTH sub outputs separately on the D2? or does it treat both together?


Ideally, I would connect each sub to the D2 and let ARC do it all...thus removing the DCX from the signal path. My biggest concern is EQ and time aligning them since they are not co-located. I realize I could just try it out, but if someone already knows it would save me some time.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *noysboy* /forum/post/19775406
> 
> 
> Question about 2 subs.
> 
> 
> I have a new (used) D2 with ARC. I also have two subs. #1 is an Epik conquest and #2 is a CHT 18.2. Together, these are currently connected to a Behringer DCX2496 to crossover, time align and EQ them...and they sound great together. Im only using a single sub output from the D2.
> 
> 
> My question. Does ARC calibrate BOTH sub outputs separately on the D2? or does it treat both together?
> 
> 
> Ideally, I would connect each sub to the D2 and let ARC do it all...thus removing the DCX from the signal path. My biggest concern is EQ and time aligning them since they are not co-located. I realize I could just try it out, but if someone already knows it would save me some time.




It treats them both together as a single sub. The D2 provides the same output on all the sub outputs.


----------



## noysboy

Thanks for the info. Thats too bad


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *noysboy* /forum/post/19775544
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. Thats too bad



Don't be too discouraged, ARC does a very good job integrating multiple subs. I've heard 4 subs corrected at the Paradigm HT using ARC. It was fantastic.

John


----------



## noysboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19775572
> 
> 
> Don't be too discouraged, ARC does a very good job integrating multiple subs. I've heard 4 subs corrected at the Paradigm HT using ARC. It was fantastic.
> 
> John



Hmm, do you know how the 4 were connected? I may have to try it out with each sub connected directly to the d2.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *noysboy* /forum/post/19775596
> 
> 
> Hmm, do you know how the 4 were connected? I may have to try it out with each sub connected directly to the d2.



I use 6 SUBS with my D2


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *noysboy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, do you know how the 4 were connected? I may have to try it out with each sub connected directly to the d2.



I don't know but if you ask nicely I'm sure drhankz would tell you









John


----------



## obie_fl

I simply Tee off my signal at the first subwoofer on to the second since that is easier for me then running another cable from the D2. You could also use any or all of the four connectors off the back of the D2 as they are the same signal, although the balanced XLR connectors are 6 db higher.


I actually have four sub devices using the two unbalanced RCA outputs and two tees. Once you get the gains and phasing dialed in manually ARC takes over and does a very good job. I've requested several times here that the next generation of processors have more then one sub channel, hopefully Anthem is listening.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19775714
> 
> 
> I use 6 SUBS with my D2



That's it 6? Are you sure you don't need at least a couple more?







Do you have some daisy-chaining going on?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19776679
> 
> 
> That's it 6? Are you sure you don't need at least a couple more?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have some daisy-chaining going on?



No Daisy Chaining - there are all separately controlled


----------



## dmusoke

Hi:


Does anyone know how the D2v audibly performs in analog bypass mode(No ARC) as compared to dedicated 2-channel great sounding external preamps?


Thanks,

David


----------



## buddy4711

Quote:

Originally Posted by *buddy4711* 
I reviewed my settings: press button 7 on the remote for the on-screen menu. In picture/input color space it is probably set to auto, now switch to HDTV YCbCr, also Studio RGB is checked on. If you toggle back into Auto you will see immediately the "false" color hues like green-purple unnatural screen...


On the Xtreamer: A/V setting TV Out: HDMI Auto


1080p60: no, it allows only up to 1080i60 currently AFAIK, but the D2 converts i60 into p60 perfectly. I also have swithed 24p mode off on the Xtreamer.


hope this helps
an old story...still not yet fully solved! After more than a year and many firmware upgrades on the Xtramer the issue with the missing maximal video resolution is still unsolved.


But it looks to be more a problem from the D2 side than from the Media player's side, because if Media Player and TV are connected directly, then everything works properly. Just when the D2 is in between, then the only 480p, 720p and 1080i are selectable, all other res and especially 1080p are visible but "greyed out" and not selectable.


I understand, as Bob explained in a former thread to this device, that the job of a "repeater processing" of EDID is more complex than when player and TV are directly connected. But interestingly some other cheaper AV receivers do obviously this job.... So I am quite disappointed in this respect.


I have run a test procedure on the Xtreamer showing the EDID information when the player and D2 are connected trough HDMI and found out that all possible resolutions are provided but at the end for some strange reasons the status of the D2 (regarded as TV) ist limited to 1080i. See the extract from the test file:

_---CEA Data Block Collection--- Tag Code = 2 len=18-----------------

Video Data Block, data_len=18

This TV supports 18 video formats. Listed below:

VID=0x01 640 480 p 59.94/60Hz 4:3

VID=0x02 720 480 p 59.94/60Hz 4:3 (support)

VID=0x03 720 480 p 59.94/60Hz 16:9 (support)

VID=0x04 1280 720 p 59.94/60Hz 16:9 (support)

VID=0x05 1920 1080 i 59.94/60Hz 16:9 (support)

VID=0x06 720(1440) 480 i 59.94/60Hz 4:3 (support)

VID=0x07 720(1440) 480 i 59.94/60Hz 16:9 (support)

VID=0x10 1920 1080 p 59.94/60Hz 16:9 (support)

VID=0x11 720 576 p 50 Hz 4:3 (support)

VID=0x12 720 576 p 50 Hz 16:9 (support)

VID=0x13 1280 720 p 50 Hz 16:9 (support)

VID=0x14 1920 1080 i 50 Hz 16:9 (support)

VID=0x15 720(1440) 576 i 50 Hz 4:3 (support)

VID=0x16 720(1440) 576 i 50 Hz 16:9(support)

VID=0x1f 1920 1080 p 50 Hz 16:9 (support)

VID=0x20 1920 1080 p 23.97/24Hz 16:9 (support)

VID=0x21 1920 1080 p 25 Hz 16:9

VID=0x22 1920 1080 p 29.97/30Hz 16:9
_


you see that EDID gives all kind of possible video resolutions, including a variety of 1080p. But underneath is the status information visible:




_[HDMI]: ShowSystemStatus ST[HDMI]: TV name : Statement D2



[HDMI]: USE_HDMI = YES in MakeConfig

[HDMI]: USE_HDCP = NO in MakeConfig

[HDMI]: AP does not turn on HDCP

[HDMI]: getHDCPEnabled = HDCP_OFF

[HDMI]: HDMI_MODEL = HDMI-MARS

[HDMI]: CHIP_MODEL = 0x1283 => Mars.

[HDMI]: YST Mode OFF

[HDMI]: HDMISwitchTVSystem OFF

[HDMI]: HDCP Un-Authenticated

[HDMI]: Chk_HotPlug() TV is connected and power on.

[HDMI]: 24-bit IEEE Registration Identifier (0x000C03) found => HDMI Device

[HDMI]: HDMI ok, DVI mode.

[HDMI]: This TV supports both YCbCr444 & YCbCr422.

[HDMI]: TVSupportxvYCC = 0

[HDMI]: This TV does not support xvYCC Enhanced Colorimetry.

[HDMI]: Aspect Ratio: Wide_16_9

[HDMI]: VID = 0x05 = 5

[HDMI]: GetVidNameByTV => VIDEO_HD1080_60HZ VIDEO_INTERLACED => 1080i 60Hz

[HDMI]: ShowSystemStatus SP
_


and frome here there is only 1080 interlaced!


I wonder if someone (Bob?) can look into this. Or should I ask Nick? I am not really sure if the problem is really caused by the Anthem or the player, but I want this solved.


I compared the video quality when connected directly to the TV (and producing 1080p from source material to display) and via the Statement (1080p source material - 1080i downscaling from Xtreamer - 1080p upscaling from D2 and export to 1080p display). What a difference in picture quality!

*Second alternative*: if a software solution/adaptation is not possible in the near future I plan another trick: I will switch in between Xtreamer and Statement an additional device, which is a hardware EDID & CEC Selector, manuell set to 1080p. This device will tell to the player: "I am a display with 1080p capabilities!" and Xtreamer will hopefully believe it and display all the output resolutions, including 1080p.


I will get this device in about three weeks and will test it.

Sorry for the long thread and any suggestions are always welcome


Regards,


Juerg

 

HDMI Test Report.doc 72k . file


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19753909
> 
> 
> I debated long and hard before getting the D2v instead of the AVM 50v. There is a distributor in Dallas who had both set up in a viewing/listening room and I went there and listened to both processors. I bought the D2v, to my ears there was a difference in audio quality. They are both quality pieces, so we should all be proud of what we have. I like the D2v, that is not a knock on the 50v.



You are lucky most of time it is impossible to compare them.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19766557
> 
> 
> What version of ARC are you running? From the looks of your charts, it appears to be an older version of ARC. If you are running an older version of ARC, then download the latest version, 3.0.1, and rerun ARC. You will probably enjoy the results of the latest version of ARC better.



do you or any viewers have a zip file of an older version of Arc. I just need to prove to myself I am not crazy. I talked to another member that has almost the same problem for over a month. They did send him a new mic and made no difference. They are also sending me a mic next week. when I sold my D2 I sent the arc cd with it and deleted all of my old arc files. Thanks much


Dick Morse


----------



## budeone

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* 
do you or any viewers have a zip file of an older version of Arc. I just need to prove to myself I am not crazy. I talked to another member that has almost the same problem for over a month. They did send him a new mic and made no difference. They are also sending me a mic next week. when I sold my D2 I sent the arc cd with it and deleted all of my old arc files. Thanks much


Dick Morse
 http://rapidshare.com/files/441377507/anthemtemp.rar


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/19786304
> 
> http://rapidshare.com/files/441377507/anthemtemp.rar



thanks much


----------



## p.las

Hello.

I have ordrer a Anthem avm 50v. I have two m&k mx350 subs locatet under my frontspeakers(M&K s150)left/right

At the moment i'am using a svs A1 EQ correction. What is Best? Arc - svs - or both.

Regards Peter

Denmark


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19788480
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> I have ordrer a Anthem avm 50v. I have two m&k mx350 subs locatet under my frontspeakers(M&K s150)left/right
> 
> At the moment i'am using a svs A1 EQ correction. What is Best? Arc - svs - or both.
> 
> Regards Peter
> 
> Denmark



I had the d2 and for my room the stand alone eq worked better than arc, but you have to try both and decide.


btw mine was calibrated by bobl, who is my local (highly skilled and acoustically trained) installer


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ultra 150 pilot* /forum/post/19788632
> 
> 
> I had the d2 and for my room the stand alone eq worked better than arc, but you have to try both and decide.
> 
> 
> btw mine was calibrated by bobl, who is my local (highly skilled and acoustically trained) installer



what about them both at the same time...is i a no go?. what i mean is, if i desided to use the stand alone EQ, will i not be abl to use the ARC for my front/center and surrounds...?

/peter


edit. can i tell the ARC not to EQ my sub , only my front/center and surrounds?


----------



## ultra 150 pilot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19788643
> 
> 
> what about them both at the same time...is i a no go?. what i mean is, if i desided to use the stand alone EQ, will i not be abl to use the ARC for my front/center and surrounds...?
> 
> /peter
> 
> 
> edit. can i tell the ARC not to EQ my sub , only my front/center and surrounds?



I think you can, but I would pm bobl and ask him.


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19780872
> 
> 
> Hi:
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how the D2v audibly performs in analog bypass mode(No ARC) as compared to dedicated 2-channel great sounding external preamps?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



I had a Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated Amp with HT pass-through when I purchased my D2. I used to use the A5 for music along with a Denon Receiver.


When I first hooked up the D2 before running ARC, the Musical Fidelity souned much better than the D2 in 2-chan direct. To compare, the MF has a very warm, full sound. The D2 in 2-chan direct was very thin and cold in comparison, and the imaging was not nearly as good. However, after running ARC and using 2chan DSP, the D2 made a huge improvement. The imaging was then spot on and the soundstage was huge. The MF was still a bit warmer sounding, but lacked detail. This could be an area where personal preference applies, but the soundstage that the D2 and ARC created was in a different league. I ended up selling the MF and now listen exclusively with the D2 and ARC.


Both systems were being fed with a PS Audio Digital Link III DAC with Cullen Level III Mods. Even though the D2 redigitizes the DACs output to apply ARC, it still sounds much better than without ARC, or just sending the digital signal directly into the D2.


Mike


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19775714
> 
> 
> I use 6 SUBS with my D2



And every year my good friend Hankz need to re-tight his floor!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi* /forum/post/19789727
> 
> 
> And every year my good friend Hankz need to re-tight his floor!



Part of the HT Hobby


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mvppsu* /forum/post/19789544
> 
> 
> I had a Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated Amp with HT pass-through when I purchased my D2. I used to use the A5 for music along with a Denon Receiver.
> 
> 
> When I first hooked up the D2 before running ARC, the Musical Fidelity souned much better than the D2 in 2-chan direct. To compare, the MF has a very warm, full sound. The D2 in 2-chan direct was very thin and cold in comparison, and the imaging was not nearly as good. However, after running ARC and using 2chan DSP, the D2 made a huge improvement. The imaging was then spot on and the soundstage was huge. The MF was still a bit warmer sounding, but lacked detail. This could be an area where personal preference applies, but the soundstage that the D2 and ARC created was in a different league. I ended up selling the MF and now listen exclusively with the D2 and ARC.
> 
> 
> Both systems were being fed with a PS Audio Digital Link III DAC with Cullen Level III Mods. Even though the D2 redigitizes the DACs output to apply ARC, it still sounds much better than without ARC, or just sending the digital signal directly into the D2.
> 
> 
> Mike



Thanks Mike ....this shows the D2's ADCs and DACs are transparent enough to replace a standalone amp with HT bypass.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19788643
> 
> 
> what about them both at the same time...is i a no go?. what i mean is, if i desided to use the stand alone EQ, will i not be abl to use the ARC for my front/center and surrounds...?
> 
> /peter
> 
> 
> edit. can i tell the ARC not to EQ my sub , only my front/center and surrounds?



p.las:


You can use both ARC with the SVS EQ and they play very well together. We have many posters in the SVS forum that use both with very good results. Anthem concurs as well. Just do the SVS EQ first and then ARC afterwards.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19790741
> 
> 
> p.las:
> 
> 
> You can use both ARC with the SVS EQ and they play very well together. We have many posters in the SVS forum that use both with very good results. Anthem concurs as well. Just do the SVS EQ first and then ARC afterwards.



also on the subs?

the anthem will replace a Lexicon mv-5 , and i hav never used the EQ on that processor, becurse the sound gets very bright espessely a high volume. So i was skeptic about the ARC, becurse mu experience from the Lex wasent that good. but after reading this tread , i think it is another animal , and maby it will be a benefit to my system.

thanks 

regards Peter


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19790944
> 
> 
> also on the subs?
> 
> the anthem will replace a Lexicon mv-5 , and i hav never used the EQ on that processor, becurse the sound gets very bright espessely a high volume. So i was skeptic about the ARC, becurse mu experience from the Lex wasent that good. but after reading this tread , i think it is another animal , and maby it will be a benefit to my system.
> 
> thanks
> 
> regards Peter



Yes you have to run ARC on your sub too so that it will blend them into the mains.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19790944
> 
> 
> also on the subs?
> 
> the anthem will replace a Lexicon mv-5 , and i hav never used the EQ on that processor, becurse the sound gets very bright espessely a high volume. So i was skeptic about the ARC, becurse mu experience from the Lex wasent that good. but after reading this tread , i think it is another animal , and maby it will be a benefit to my system.
> 
> thanks
> 
> regards Peter





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19791148
> 
> 
> Yes you have to run ARC on your sub too so that it will blend them into the mains.



That's right!


----------



## stummala

Bob (and helpful others!),


In my current home theater setup, the center channel is a B&W LCR7. After running ARC 3.01 with my Anthem D2 ver 1.47f, the system sounds fantastic. One exception...when playing the system at very loud levels (-10db and above volume level), the center channel is clearly not capable of such volume and can bottom out the midrange, etc. Obviously I can turn down the volume. However, in the ARC targets menu, I increased the crossover setting from 115db (chosen by ARC) to 150. When doing that, the center seems better/clearer....however, the subwoofer crossover also increased to 150 (from 120 chosen previously by ARC). The system's bass response immediately suffered considerably. I'm using two Seaton SubMersives and they otherwise ROCKED with the previous settings.


So my question is, what is the best method to setup the system's "max volume" point so as not to bottom out the center speaker and/or raise the center channel's crossover point to protect just that speaker?


Thanks!


Satish


----------



## Steven9x7

It's possible with Anthem D2 connect both Anthem A5 + A2 to create a 7.1 system??

Thanks


----------



## stummala

Yes of course. That's how my system is. Anthem D2 with a 5-channel and 2-channel Anthem amplifiers to create a 7-channel setup.


Satish


----------



## Steven9x7

Can you explain me the connections?


----------



## stummala

front speakers go to the 2-channel amplifier which gets its input from the L/R outputs on the D2. the center and all rear speakers get wired to the 5-channel amp which gets its input from the LR/RR/LS/RS/Center outputs on the D2. I used all XLR interconnects between the amplifiers


----------



## Steven9x7

Perfect









And for the audio analog from bluray player ,it's possible 7.1 or only 5.1 ?!

In the Anthem D2's rear panel i see only "6 channel-in" !?


----------



## stummala

Does your bluray player decode 7.1 channels and pass them via LPCM via HDMI? (for example a Sony PS3), if so, simply connect the player via HDMI and set the player's audio settings to "LPCM" or "PCM" instead of "Bitstream"


----------



## Steven9x7

No i want to use rhe analog connection NOT hdmi......it's possible or just 5.1?

Thanks


----------



## stummala

I believe just 5.1 in that case.


----------



## Steven9x7

OK....an idea.......if connect the 5.1 RCA cable in the "6 channel in " and the other 2 cable XLR in the "2 channel-in Balanced" can create the 7.1 system?


----------



## stummala

I don't believe so.


----------



## mvppsu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steven9x7* /forum/post/19794348
> 
> 
> Perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for the audio analog from bluray player ,it's possible 7.1 or only 5.1 ?!
> 
> In the Anthem D2's rear panel i see only "6 channel-in" !?



The D2 can only accept 5.1 via anaolog or digital. It will output 7.1 channels though. It uses Dolby PLIIx or THX or other surround processing to create the 2 rear channels.


Even thought the D2v can accept a 7.1 channel signal, there is very little material that is actually produced in 7.1. Therefore, your not missing much.


----------



## stummala

To those who use a D2V, is your Bluray player still decoding the stream and passing the signal via LPCM or bitstreaming (letting the D2V decode the stream)?


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stummala* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To those who use a D2V, is your Bluray player still decoding the stream and passing the signal via LPCM or bitstreaming (letting the D2V decode the stream)?



I bitstream to my D2v, I have not any other method. Very happy so far.


----------



## stummala

Just wondering, when bitstreaming to the D2V, don't the secondary audio features on the Bluray disc not work?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stummala* /forum/post/19795016
> 
> 
> Just wondering, when bitstreaming to the D2V, don't the secondary audio features on the Bluray disc not work?



Yes - You are Correct - you can only have BOTH if the Player Decodes


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stummala* /forum/post/19794238
> 
> 
> Bob (and helpful others!),
> 
> 
> In my current home theater setup, the center channel is a B&W LCR7. After running ARC 3.01 with my Anthem D2 ver 1.47f, the system sounds fantastic. One exception...when playing the system at very loud levels (-10db and above volume level), the center channel is clearly not capable of such volume and can bottom out the midrange, etc. Obviously I can turn down the volume. However, in the ARC targets menu, I increased the crossover setting from 115db (chosen by ARC) to 150. When doing that, the center seems better/clearer....however, the subwoofer crossover also increased to 150 (from 120 chosen previously by ARC). The system's bass response immediately suffered considerably. I'm using two Seaton SubMersives and they otherwise ROCKED with the previous settings.
> 
> 
> So my question is, what is the best method to setup the system's "max volume" point so as not to bottom out the center speaker and/or raise the center channel's crossover point to protect just that speaker?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Satish



Sounds like you have 1 or 2 choices. You can 1) keep the volume below -10 or 2) get a better center channel.


BTW, what are you using for your mains?


----------



## stummala

Thanks but that wasn't the answer. I reran the ARC with the speaker level "preconditions" that Bob had instructed from prior posts....using the Radio Shack SPL meter, etc. Once that was completed, the crossover points dramatically changed, the speaker didn't bottom out, and I was able to listen to source material with the volume raised to even -1.0.


----------



## politby

A few pages back I posted about the problem I had with no measured results above ~5kHz. I can happily report that an update of my AVM50 to firmware v1.47f fixed the problem.


I had reverted back to 1.33 because of a volume problem with 1.47f but this time the update did not have that issue so I re-ran ARC with 1.47f and came up with the attached results.


I can still not figure out why my subwoofer has such a bad response below 30 Hz, my fronts and rears measure much better and that is very strange. Must be something with the placement of the sub and/or the room characteristics.


That sub has a specified -3dB point at 20 Hz. Any suggestions?


----------



## cragger

Hi:

I am in need of some insight and hopefully a solution to a problem I am having with my DV2.

First my set up is a DV2 with my Dishnetwork reciever and Samsung tv hooked in via hdmi. Now the problem I am having is when I change channels on my tv I get an audio drop. To remedy the problem I turn the Dv2 off then on again and when I do that I get audio back but no video so I have to turn the tv off then on again.

Sometimes I can go a day or so when this does not happen, but when it does it is aggrevating.

Oh before I forget I do have the 2.10 ver.

Any help would be appreciated.

Ran


----------



## AVfile

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ninja12* 
Sounds like you have 1 or 2 choices. You can 1) keep the volume below -10 or 2) get a better center channel.
3) reduce the level of the centre.


I found that ARC runs my centre way too high (3-4 dB) and I haven't asked why yet (WHY?).


Anyway I would reduce the level before messing with crossover points.


----------



## obie_fl

Quote:

Originally Posted by *politby* 
I can still not figure out why my subwoofer has such a bad response below 30 Hz, my fronts and rears measure much better and that is very strange. Must be something with the placement of the sub and/or the room characteristics.


That sub has a specified -3dB point at 20 Hz. Any suggestions?
Wow that is a pretty nasty drop off. Normally I would say yea check the room positioning but that almost looks like a filter is in place. Does your sub have a subsonic filter by any chance? I'd do a quick measure of the sub with the mic a few feet from the sub and see if you get a similar response.


----------



## politby

Quote:

Originally Posted by *obie_fl* 
Wow that is a pretty nasty drop off. Normally I would say yea check the room positioning but that almost looks like a filter is in place. Does your sub have a subsonic filter by any chance? I'd do a quick measure of the sub with the mic a few feet from the sub and see if you get a similar response.
No subsonic filter mentioned in the manual or specs, definitely no switch or dial. Good suggestion about a quick measure; will try that and report back.


----------



## Bill Gaw2

Will the D2v pass HDMI 1.4?



Bill


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill Gaw2* /forum/post/19802883
> 
> 
> Will the D2v pass HDMI 1.4?
> 
> 
> 
> Bill



They have talked about a hardware upgrade to some of the HDMI ports to the 1.4 spec being available some time this year. I would guess the second quarter.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill Gaw2* /forum/post/19802883
> 
> 
> Will the D2v pass HDMI 1.4?
> 
> 
> 
> Bill



No, but a future D2v hardware card upgrade will.


Edit: Ditto what Shrike said above


----------



## Bill Gaw2

Thanks.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *politby* /forum/post/19801473
> 
> 
> No subsonic filter mentioned in the manual or specs, definitely no switch or dial. Good suggestion about a quick measure; will try that and report back.



Politby:


Did you ever have a normal sub response or is this the first time you're running it with ARC? If not, then look elsewhere for a sub-sonic filter setting of some type.


If this is the first time with ARC, then using quick measure amd moving the sub around the front or side walls is the key to get better low frequency response. I'm assuming the vendors specs are accurate.


In my case, I use the 'crawling' technique where i place the sub in my listening chair and move the ARC mike along side the front and side walls till i get the best response. I find this easier than lugging the sub all over the place. Measure the distance of the woofer center to the floor the have the mic taht distance off the move as you move it all over the room.


Afterwards, don't forget to phase match your sub with the mains(front left speaker will do). This will ensure a smooth transition (within the crossover region) between the sub and the mains and is very audible.


Good luck...


----------



## NORLL

Nothing new from Anthem at CES 2011?



I have read all the reviews of the Anthem Statement D2v, but there is one thing I cannot seem to find a good answer to. I am concerned with both movie and music playback from this unit. From what I read the D2v performs excellent for all movie playback, but how good is it really for stereo playback using the D2vs internals DACs? The only way I can really justify buying a pre/pro in this price range is if it can replace both my existing pre-amp and my CD/SACD-player...


So, how good is digital to the D2v compared to analog output from a good CD-player (something like the Sony SCD-XA5400ES)?


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19803207
> 
> 
> Politby:
> 
> 
> Did you ever have a normal sub response or is this the first time you're running it with ARC? If not, then look elsewhere for a sub-sonic filter setting of some type.
> 
> 
> If this is the first time with ARC, then using quick measure amd moving the sub around the front or side walls is the key to get better low frequency response. I'm assuming the vendors specs are accurate.
> 
> 
> In my case, I use the 'crawling' technique where i place the sub in my listening chair and move the ARC mike along side the front and side walls till i get the best response. I find this easier than lugging the sub all over the place. Measure the distance of the woofer center to the floor the have the mic taht distance off the move as you move it all over the room.
> 
> 
> Afterwards, don't forget to phase match your sub with the mains(front left speaker will do). This will ensure a smooth transition (within the crossover region) between the sub and the mains and is very audible.
> 
> 
> Good luck...



Thanks. This is a new sub (Canton AS225SC) so the first time with a complete ARC process since I got the 5kHz drop problem fixed.


I actually had the exact same drop with my old sub (Swans Sub 10) so I have never seen a proper bass response graph in ARC.


Can't see where there could be a subsonic filter, only place to look would be the AVM50 or the ARC software. My amp is not involved since the sub is powered and the mic cannot be the culprit since the drop is only with the sub. Is there an ARC setting I could have missed?


I think I need to take a serious look at the placement of the sub.


----------



## obie_fl

I can't find much on the Canton AS225SC but I did see this explanation of SC technology:

Canton's in-house SC technology defines redefines the relationship between speaker volume and bass reproduction using individual filter switches and extends the speakers transmission range by an octave and more downwards - and this with unbelievable level consistency.


Is it possible that is somehow the culprit?


Oh and is this a 10" driver with a 200watt amp? May be too small for your room.


----------



## ahanson3

NORLL


I am using the Anthem D2v with the Sony ES5400 SACD player. I am using the digital HDMI connection for multichannel SACD. For stereo or when I want an analog connection I am using the two channel balanced connection. This allows using the Anthem's high end A/D converters to enable bass management, time alignment, Anthem Room Correction, surround mode processing, etc. Selection is made via the inputs on the remote. I have an input for each. Results are very good. Most people that first hear my sytem comment that it sounds like the musician(s) are playing live in the room. Wide dynamic soundstage, air around the instruments, etc. My associated equipment is: Parasound Halo amps (2.0 & 5.1), Von Schweikert VR4 SR MKIII speakers, Richard Gray power conditioner, Acoustic Zen cables and power cords, and Analysis Plus bi-wire speaker cable. I am also using the D2v with a Sony 5000ES blu ray player with great results.


ahanson3


----------



## NORLL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ahanson3* /forum/post/19803811
> 
> 
> NORLL
> 
> 
> I am using the Anthem D2v with the Sony ES5400 SACD player. I am using the digital HDMI connection for multichannel SACD. For stereo or when I want an analog connection I am using the two channel balanced connection. This allows using the Anthem's high end A/D converters to enable bass management, time alignment, Anthem Room Correction, surround mode processing, etc. Selection is made via the inputs on the remote. I have an input for each. Results are very good. Most people that first hear my sytem comment that it sounds like the musician(s) are playing live in the room. Wide dynamic soundstage, air around the instruments, etc. My associated equipment is: Parasound Halo amps (2.0 & 5.1), Von Schweikert VR4 SR MKIII speakers, Richard Gray power conditioner, Acoustic Zen cables and power cords, and Analysis Plus bi-wire speaker cable. I am also using the D2v with a Sony 5000ES blu ray player with great results.
> 
> 
> ahanson3



Sounds like a great system! I have had the Sony BD-player myself, but just swapped it out for a 3D one. It is a great piece of equipment.


If you don't mind me asking; is not the analog connection from the 5400ES kind of unnecessary, when you could just use the HDMI for everything? One should think that a pure digital connection to the D2v would be better than going through DA-AD-DA conversion? Have you compared analog from the 5400ES (D2v in bypass) with HDMI (D2v in stereo with/without ARC)? If so, what was your conclusion?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NORLL* /forum/post/19803223
> 
> 
> Nothing new from Anthem at CES 2011?
> 
> 
> 
> I have read all the reviews of the Anthem Statement D2v, but there is one thing I cannot seem to find a good answer to. I am concerned with both movie and music playback from this unit. From what I read the D2v performs excellent for all movie playback, but how good is it really for stereo playback using the D2vs internals DACs? The only way I can really justify buying a pre/pro in this price range is if it can replace both my existing pre-amp and my CD/SACD-player...
> 
> 
> So, how good is digital to the D2v compared to analog output from a good CD-player (something like the Sony SCD-XA5400ES)?



NORELL,



The Anthem has exceptional DAC's and will do a very good job with cd's when hooked up thru hdmi to a Bluray or dvd player, but I totally agree with ahanson3. Using the D2v with your Sony thru balanced analog connections is even better.

I have an Ayre CX7-eMP cdp that is hooked up to my D2 via balanced xlr. I use ARC for bass management since my fronts aren't full range.

I have A/B'd cd playback between the Ayre and my Oppo 83 (Oppo was set up with analog rca, hdmi and digital coax) and the Ayre always sounded better.

I have A/B'd the Ayre using 'analog' setting in the D2 (which bypasses all digital processing in the Anthem), and 'analog DSP' (which alows me to engage ARC), and I prefer it in 'Analog DSP' with ARC. I have talked to another Anthem/Ayre owner who preferred it in pure 'Analog', but he had very expensive front speakers that were truly 'full range' and an acoustical treated listening room.


If you buy the Anthem D2v you can A/B test between your Sony with balanced analog connections and cd playback from your dvd or bluray player.

I bet you'll like the Sony using 2-ch balanced for cd and stereo sacd music. Especially if you prefer the Sony for cd playback better than cd playback thru your dvd/bluray player in your present set-up. For now, if you can afford it, keep your Sony until you have a Chance to test it with the Anthem for yourself. If you cannot tell the difference, you can always sell your Sony on Audiogon later.


Tom


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cragger* /forum/post/19800058
> 
> 
> Hi:
> 
> I am in need of some insight and hopefully a solution to a problem I am having with my DV2.
> 
> First my set up is a DV2 with my Dishnetwork reciever and Samsung tv hooked in via hdmi. Now the problem I am having is when I change channels on my tv I get an audio drop. To remedy the problem I turn the Dv2 off then on again and when I do that I get audio back but no video so I have to turn the tv off then on again.
> 
> Sometimes I can go a day or so when this does not happen, but when it does it is aggrevating.
> 
> Oh before I forget I do have the 2.10 ver.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Ran



If you are sending a 1080p signal to your TV from the D2v try reducing it to 1080i or 720p and see if that has an affect. If that doesn't do it try setting the output to 8 bits (line "f" in video output configuration in settings) if it is set at 12 bits or 10. Also you could set line "d" to HDTV and line "e" to studio RGB. If these don't work try using your second HDMI output on the D2v. If that doesn't work try using the second row of HDMI inputs on the D2v. If these don't work I can't help you,







, then try Anthem support.


Good luck,


John


----------



## cragger

If you are sending a 1080p signal to your TV from the D2v try reducing it to 1080i or 720p and see if that has an affect. If that doesn't do it try setting the output to 8 bits (line "f" in video output configuration in settings) if it is set at 12 bits or 10. Also you could set line "d" to HDTV and line "e" to studio RGB. If these don't work try using your second HDMI output on the D2v. If that doesn't work try using the second row of HDMI inputs on the D2v. If these don't work I can't help you, , then try Anthem support.


Good luck,


John


Thanks John I will try this and let you know how it worked out.


Thanks Ran


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NORLL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nothing new from Anthem at CES 2011?
> 
> 
> I have read all the reviews of the Anthem Statement D2v, but there is one thing I cannot seem to find a good answer to. I am concerned with both movie and music playback from this unit. From what I read the D2v performs excellent for all movie playback, but how good is it really for stereo playback using the D2vs internals DACs? The only way I can really justify buying a pre/pro in this price range is if it can replace both my existing pre-amp and my CD/SACD-player...
> 
> 
> So, how good is digital to the D2v compared to analog output from a good CD-player (something like the Sony SCD-XA5400ES)?



I went from a Bryston BDA-1 DAC, which was very nice, to the D2v and I have not missed the Bryston. I think the corrections ARC makes really makes the difference along the DACs in the ssp. I would have liked to have heard the Bryston feed the D2v's balanced analog inputs, but I had to sell it to buy the Anthem. The great thing about the D2v is it improved all of my sources at once, where the standalone DAC helped digital music only. The Anthem also works wonders for video. In the end, I feel I made the correct choice and would encourage anyone to do the same.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cragger* /forum/post/19800058
> 
> 
> Hi:
> 
> I am in need of some insight and hopefully a solution to a problem I am having with my DV2.
> 
> First my set up is a DV2 with my Dishnetwork reciever and Samsung tv hooked in via hdmi. Now the problem I am having is when I change channels on my tv I get an audio drop. To remedy the problem I turn the Dv2 off then on again and when I do that I get audio back but no video so I have to turn the tv off then on again.
> 
> Sometimes I can go a day or so when this does not happen, but when it does it is aggrevating.
> 
> Oh before I forget I do have the 2.10 ver.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Ran



cragger:


I had a similar problem when I used my Moxi cable box with my 50v into my plasma TV. Whenever I tuned into a cable radio station, i got no audio at all. Numerous visits by my cable provider didn't help. The HDMI handshaking when switching channels froze the audio in my system.


I finally found a solution by fixing the output resolution from my cable box to 1080i, since most HD broadcasts are 1080i and a few are 720p. Fixing the cable box resolution prevents HDMI transactions between the source and D2v. So whenever you switch between channels(480i, 720p and 1080i), it only sees only output resolution from the box as a constant 1080i video stream and is happy







.


----------



## stummala

For those of you using a D2 with DirecTV HD receivers, what are the optimal settings for video on the D2 as well as on the DirecTV HD receiver? In other words, should the receiver be set at 720p or 1080i? Video settings (i.e. color space, etc.) on the D2?


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stummala* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those of you using a D2 with DirecTV HD receivers, what are the optimal settings for video on the D2 as well as on the DirecTV HD receiver? In other words, should the receiver be set at 720p or 1080i? Video settings (i.e. color space, etc.) on the D2?



For me I set the Directv receiver to native output, so I check all resolutions 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i in the setup menu under HD, it think. For the D2v, I setup video output as [email protected] Additionally, I have it set to 12 bit. I dont recall the other settings though. All my connections are made via HDMI. Every once in a while, i get the pink screen, switching the channel gets it right. There might be some slow switching, but it appears to work for me. Picture looks alot better than before using the Anthem.


----------



## slots1

of course if you download from directv 1080p movies you should also ck 1080p..

I had this setting on my D2 and now my D2v. yes outstanding picture.


----------



## CycloneMike

I have an odd thing happening with my D2v. When I first turn on the unit and the associated TWC HD box the picture seems to take a while to properly sync.


The D2v is connected to the TWC box with component cables and coaxial digital for sound. The output from the TWC box is native to the D2v. The D2v is connected to my Sony SXRD projector with HDMI and output to the projector as 1080p/60Hz (I think).


For the first couple of minutes the picture will blink on/off; however, the sound continues. After a couple of minutes the picture stabilizes and does not do this anymore. Almost like one of the units has to "warm up".


I am not sure if it will do the same thing at first if I turn on the unit and use my Blu-Ray player of game console.


Thoughts,


Mike


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/19808723
> 
> 
> I have an odd thing happening with my D2v. When I first turn on the unit and the associated TWC HD box the picture seems to take a while to properly sync.
> 
> 
> The D2v is connected to the TWC box with component cables and coaxial digital for sound. The output from the TWC box is native to the D2v. The D2v is connected to my Sony SXRD projector with HDMI and output to the projector as 1080p/60Hz (I think).
> 
> 
> For the first couple of minutes the picture will blink on/off; however, the sound continues. After a couple of minutes the picture stabilizes and does not do this anymore. Almost like one of the units has to "warm up".
> 
> 
> I am not sure if it will do the same thing at first if I turn on the unit and use my Blu-Ray player of game console.
> 
> 
> Thoughts,
> 
> 
> Mike



You need to use the MAGIC Hank Turn-On Order - if you can.


1) Projector

2) Anthem

3) DVR


I use a Crestron Control system and give each device time

to turn on and stabilize.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You need to use the MAGIC Hank Turn-On Order - if you can.
> 
> 
> 1) Projector
> 
> 2) Anthem
> 
> 3) DVR
> 
> 
> I use a Crestron Control system and give each device time
> 
> to turn on and stabilize.



I concur, the drhankz maneuver is renowned for it's ability to overcome turn on issues









John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19809941
> 
> 
> You need to use the MAGIC Hank Turn-On Order - if you can.
> 
> 
> 1) Projector
> 
> 2) Anthem
> 
> 3) DVR
> 
> 
> I use a Crestron Control system and give each device time
> 
> to turn on and stabilize.



If that does not work. Set up a source for your TWC box outputing 1080i from the Anthem as I think that is what all cable companies use and you are inputing.


----------



## obie_fl

I'd be surprised if most cable companies output only 1080i. I think most will output native 720P and 480 if your box is setup to output it. I'd be kind of PO'ed if my cable box converted native 720P to 1080i, that's what the Anthem is for, not the cheap cable settop box.


----------



## flavorguy

I want to be able to feed a HDTV in an auxillary room. I would want this TV to mirror whatever I have feeding my projector in my main viewing room.


I have looked through the AVM50v manual and am still not clear if this can be done. Can the AVM50v feed a projector via HDMI-out 1 and also send the same source out via HDMI-out 2 to feed my HDTV concurrently?


If not, can I send the projector HDMI-out 1 and the secondary TV by Component Zone 2?


Will the pictures and audio delays be matched or will one stream be slightly ahead of the other?


Thanks for the help...


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19806971
> 
> 
> For me I set the Directv receiver to native output, so I check all resolutions 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i in the setup menu under HD, it think. For the D2v, I setup video output as [email protected] Additionally, I have it set to 12 bit. I dont recall the other settings though. All my connections are made via HDMI. Every once in a while, i get the pink screen, switching the channel gets it right. There might be some slow switching, but it appears to work for me. Picture looks alot better than before using the Anthem.



Same for me. Speaking of Direct TV and the D2v, if you want 3D channels you have to run the HDMI from the satellite receiver straight to the tv. You can not run through the D2v since it is not 3D ready. I guess maybe in the future with the upgrade to HDMI 1.4?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/19810422
> 
> 
> I want to be able to feed a HDTV in an auxillary room. I would want this TV to mirror whatever I have feeding my projector in my main viewing room.
> 
> 
> I have looked through the AVM50v manual and am still not clear if this can be done. Can the AVM50v feed a projector via HDMI-out 1 and also send the same source out via HDMI-out 2 to feed my HDTV concurrently?
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> Will the pictures and audio delays be matched or will one stream be slightly ahead of the other?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help...




Flavorguy:


Yes, you should be able to feed the video and audio from HDMI 1 into HDMI2. Thats the neat thing about the flexibility of the Anthem units. Simply go into HDMI2 settings and duplicatewhat you have in the HDMI1 menu. That's it. All you'll have to do is switch (via remote) to HDMI 2 whenever you go into the auxilliary room. There'll be no audio/video delay issues whatsover...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19810495
> 
> 
> Same for me. Speaking of Direct TV and the D2v, if you want 3D channels you have to run the HDMI from the satellite receiver straight to the tv. You can not run through the D2v since it is not 3D ready. I guess maybe in the future with the upgrade to HDMI 1.4?



Yes, upgradabilityof the AMV50v/D2v video boards to HDMI 1.4 was promised by Anthem sometime due 'this year'...


----------



## flavorguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19810619
> 
> 
> Flavorguy:
> 
> 
> Yes, you should be able to feed the video and audio from HDMI 1 into HDMI2. Thats the neat thing about the flexibility of the Anthem units. Simply go into HDMI2 settings and duplicatewhat you have in the HDMI1 menu. That's it. All you'll have to do is switch (via remote) to HDMI 2 whenever you go into the auxilliary room. There'll be no audio/video delay issues whatsover...



Dmusoke -


That's great... and both will run concurrently? I'm thinking of using this for an upcoming Superbowl party and I'll have guests in two rooms...


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/19810171
> 
> 
> I'd be surprised if most cable companies output only 1080i. I think most will output native 720P and 480 if your box is setup to output it. I'd be kind of PO'ed if my cable box converted native 720P to 1080i, that's what the Anthem is for, not the cheap cable settop box.



BE SURPRISED !!


Here is a direct quote from the Time Warner Web site and I know for a fact Comcast also is the same.


"The available options are (most newer TVs can use all of these):


480I (default) 480 lines, interlaced

720P 720 lines, progressive

480P 480 lines, progressive

1080I 1080 lines, interlaced

AUTO SELECT DVI or HDMI connections only


----------



## SimonNo10

Thought I would mention this. After running ARC a few months back now I doubled checked the volume per speaker using my analogue SPL meter (with new battery) last night, and the front 3 speakers were all reading 75db but the 2 surrounds were reading approx 2-3db lower. Now I have made the adjustments to make them read 75db so what do I trust ARC or my SPL meter? I had the meter on a tripod sitting on my main listening position at the correct height. Funny that it tells me the front 3 are the same but not the surrounds. Anyone else had this issue?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19812598
> 
> 
> Thought I would mention this. After running ARC a few months back now I doubled checked the volume per speaker using my analogue SPL meter (with new battery) last night, and the front 3 speakers were all reading 75db but the 2 surrounds were reading approx 2-3db lower. Now I have made the adjustments to make them read 75db so what do I trust ARC or my SPL meter? I had the meter on a tripod sitting on my main listening position at the correct height. Funny that it tells me the front 3 are the same but not the surrounds. Anyone else had this issue?



Its been said by Anthem and others that the mic is more precise than the RS meter. The ARc levels don't just include sound SPLs but they also take into account various level trims for each speaker in your system.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flavorguy* /forum/post/19810742
> 
> 
> Dmusoke -
> 
> 
> That's great... and both will run concurrently? I'm thinking of using this for an upcoming Superbowl party and I'll have guests in two rooms...



Flavorguy:


The setup I described earlier assumed you wanted to switch between the two listening rooms. But I'd check section 4 of the manual. It has a good description of audio/videoviewing in main and zones 1 & 2. As always, you may also contact anthem for a more complete answer. They have are a helpful bunch of people over there!


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> The ARc levels don't just include sound SPLs but they also take into account various level trims for each speaker in your system.



So it's normal then that some speakers will read lower than others using an SPL meter and just trust ARC during the pink noise test on the Anthem?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> So it's normal then that some speakers will read lower than others using an SPL meter and just trust ARC during the pink noise test on the Anthem?



Yes.

John


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19812728
> 
> 
> Its been said by Anthem and others that the mic is more precise than the RS meter.



Precision is not terribly important in a mic used for overall level matching. Repeatability is the key there, and the Radio Shack is as stable and consistent as any other mic.



> Quote:
> The ARc levels don't just include sound SPLs but they also take into account various level trims for each speaker in your system.



Both the ARC and RS measurements take into account the gain trims--they have no choice--the final signal from the speakers reflects the gain trims.


What ARC may do differently is in the frequency weighting of the noise in determining the loudness. That difference in weighting curve can easily lead to the differences you see, even if the RS meter is placed in the same location as the ARC mic. You can see this same thing happen when switching the RS mic between A and C wtg. I don't mean the overall level shift that results (C will always read louder then A on wideband sounds), but that a speaker system with perfect channel matching with A wtg can read a few dB difference across the channels when C wtg is used. If that happens, it means the frequency responses are not uniform across all speakers (to the mic). Since mid-high frequencies are more important to directional imaging, I recommend using A-wtg on RS meters for channel balance adjustments. If the balance reads the same in C, then no problem. But if the balances read differently in C, it means the bass responses differ amongst the speakers. Not necessarily bad, maybe some speakers reach deeper than others, but best not to let that influence the gain calibrations.


You may have noticed that when using THX noise, the readings between A and C are virtually identical. THX noise strips off the bass


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks for the detailed explanation Roger. Will try A-wtg and see what it reads.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19811307
> 
> 
> BE SURPRISED !!
> 
> 
> Here is a direct quote from the Time Warner Web site and I know for a fact Comcast also is the same.
> 
> 
> "The available options are (most newer TVs can use all of these):
> 
> 
> 480I (default) — 480 lines, interlaced
> 
> 720P — 720 lines, progressive
> 
> 480P — 480 lines, progressive
> 
> 1080I — 1080 lines, interlaced
> 
> AUTO SELECT — DVI or HDMI connections only



Uhh I think we are on two different pages here or have some miscommunication going on. You basically confirmed what I was trying to say, that the cable boxes are passing the native resolution from the providers/networks. If you have all the above resolutions enabled on your box you should get the resolution out that the networks are supplying. In other words if you go to NBC/CBS you should get 1080i switch to ABC/ESPN and you should have 720P, switch to an SDTV channel and get 480i.


I was responding to the quote below. The point I was trying to make is that the Anthem should receive those "native network signals" and convert it to the "native resolution" of your display say 1080P for instance not your cable set top box.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19810065
> 
> 
> If that does not work. Set up a source for your TWC box outputing 1080i from the Anthem as I think that is what all cable companies use and you are inputing.



To reiterate the cable companies are *not* outputting one resolution from the homebase but rather the original network resolutions. It is the cable set top boxes that do the conversion if you select only one specific resolution. I'm saying you want the Anthem video processor to do this not the cheapo cable box.


----------



## jpoet

I have been really enjoying my D2v. The audio quality is excellent. As time has gone on, and I have listened to more stuff, I have become convinced that it definitely does sound better than my Anthem AVM 20v2.


My only day-to-day gripe is with the "no audio" bug. Yes, I know that switching to another source, and then back to the desired sources fixes it, but it is still very annoying. I probably average having to deal with this at least a half-dozen times per week. I find it hard to believe that Anthem thinks this is acceptable behaviour for their premier product. I am also surprised that more people here don't complain about it.


It is also annoying that it can't seem to remember that I want "frame lock" enabled for my blu-ray player. I have not identified specific circumstances that cause it, but I often have to re-enable the "frame lock" to get 24p. I think it may happen when I turn on the blu-ray player before the D2v, but I have not verified that.


On a related note, every time I enable "frame lock" the D2v starts forcing audio out of my TV speakers (even though the TV speakers are "off" as far as the TV is concerned). To get the audio to *just* come out of my Vandersteen speakers, I have to turn the D2v off and then back on.


Why doesn't Anthem move the "frame lock" setting to the main source menu, instead of having it on the "video processor" menu? If they did that, maybe it would be able to remember that I want "frame lock" always enabled.


Do I need to report these issues to Anthem? I can't be the only one encountering these bugs, so I assume Anthem already knows about them.


Otherwise, I am very, very happy with the D2v.


John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/19812598
> 
> 
> Thought I would mention this. After running ARC a few months back now I doubled checked the volume per speaker using my analogue SPL meter (with new battery) last night, and the front 3 speakers were all reading 75db but the 2 surrounds were reading approx 2-3db lower. Now I have made the adjustments to make them read 75db so what do I trust ARC or my SPL meter? I had the meter on a tripod sitting on my main listening position at the correct height. Funny that it tells me the front 3 are the same but not the surrounds. Anyone else had this issue?



I seem to have an issue of ARC setting the centre channel much too loud. About 3-4 dB high, confirmed with RS meter and by ear (so I don't blame RS). Why is ARC so keen on blaring dialogue?


----------



## AVfile

When I inquired about this feature Anthem tech support mentioned that the current version has a software bug and is not working. Some older posts here indicate is was working with the older versions of software/hardware.


I have an AVM-50v with v2.10 firmware and downloaded the latest utilities. When I run LiveVideoSettingsEditor (v1.33) it finds the "AVM50" and can power it on but can not download or upload any settings. It simply hangs on the "Tranferring Data" dialogue forever, with no progress bar displayed.


PS - I am able to use the Settings Backup v1.03 with no problem so my connection must be solid.


----------



## dmusoke

Just to verify here but I'll be moving from AVM50v to a D2v this weekend.


1. Will the settings saved by the backup editor from the 50v work for the D2v as well?


2. Does the backup editor save ARC values, speaker distances, phase settings etc?



Thanks,

David


----------



## ninja12

Quote:

Originally Posted by *AVfile* 
I seem to have an issue of ARC setting the centre channel much too loud. About 3-4 dB high, confirmed with RS meter and by ear (so I don't blame RS). Why is ARC so keen on blaring dialogue?
Did you just take your measurement, with the RS Meter, from the LP only? Remember, ARC is factoring in all of the LPs when it's doing its' measurements.


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke*
Just to verify here but I'll be moving from AVM50v to a D2v this weekend.


1. Will the settings saved by the backup editor from the 50v work for the D2v as well?


2. Does the backup editor save ARC values, speaker distances, phase settings etc?


Thanks,

David
For arc just upload your current file but remember you will be getting another arc kit with a diff. Mic file.

John


----------



## Shrike645

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ninja12* 
Did you just take your measurement, with the RS Meter, from the LP only? Remember, ARC is factoring in all of the LPs when it's doing its' measurements.
I'm not positive but I had thought Bob P has said that the trims are set for position 1 only.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19828499
> 
> 
> I'm not positive but I had thought Bob P has said that the trims are set for position 1 only.



Yes, I think you may be right about that. However, built-in test tones are different from the test tones that ARC is using. So, that could also be a difference. The bottom line is it comes down to what you enjoy hearing and how you like to hear it. I always say trust your ears. That's another good thing about ARC, it allows us to tweak and really not worry about messing things up because we can just reload or upload the ARC file again to get back to where ARC set things.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not positive but I had thought Bob P has said that the trims are set for position 1 only.



I believe that is true. That's why getting the first position right is so important.

John


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/19824884
> 
> 
> I seem to have an issue of ARC setting the centre channel much too loud. About 3-4 dB high, confirmed with RS meter and by ear (so I don't blame RS). Why is ARC so keen on blaring dialogue?



What noise source did you use? Could you try with a THX Optimiser disc and see what you get?


----------



## stanger89

OK, so I need some advice I think, this could get a little rambly so bear with me. I've got an AVM20 V2 that I've had for 5-6 years now and I really like it. I would not even be here looking but for two things, I'm "Jones'n" for ARC, and I'm looking for an HBR (TrueHD/DTS-HD) decoder. A video processor isn't high on my list.


So I'm trying to figure out how to do that without taking a big step down from my AVM20. For some reason I just can't see myself replacing an Anthem with a Denon or Pioneer or whatever. But at the same time I have a hard time justifying $6k (minus modest discount) for a 50V when I'm just looking for ARC and HBR decoding.


So I'm trying to figure out what to do. I could bite the bullet and just get one. But is there a cheaper way? Firstly and AVM40 can't do or be upgraded to HBR decoding right? I've seen some used AVM50's for a pretty reasonable price, but I believe those would need to be upgraded to a 50V for HBR decoding? I've lost the info on what that upgrade costs, anybody know?


I guess the last question is, a video processor is on my list, but how good is the one in the Anthem? How's it compare to a Radiance XD/XE for example?


Thanks for any thoughts.


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *stanger89*
OK, so I need some advice I think, this could get a little rambly so bear with me. I've got an AVM20 V2 that I've had for 5-6 years now and I really like it. I would not even be here looking but for two things, I'm "Jones'n" for ARC, and I'm looking for an HBR (TrueHD/DTS-HD) decoder. A video processor isn't high on my list.


So I'm trying to figure out how to do that without taking a big step down from my AVM20. For some reason I just can't see myself replacing an Anthem with a Denon or Pioneer or whatever. But at the same time I have a hard time justifying $6k (minus modest discount) for a 50V when I'm just looking for ARC and HBR decoding.


So I'm trying to figure out what to do. I could bite the bullet and just get one. But is there a cheaper way? Firstly and AVM40 can't do or be upgraded to HBR decoding right? I've seen some used AVM50's for a pretty reasonable price, but I believe those would need to be upgraded to a 50V for HBR decoding? I've lost the info on what that upgrade costs, anybody know?.


I guess the last question is, a video processor is on my list, but how good is the one in the Anthem? How's it compare to a Radiance XD/XE for example?


Thanks for any thoughts.
What about an Anthem MRX receiver? They are getting great reviews and they come with ARC and full HD audio decoding. Video processing isn't what you would get in an AVM 50v but for the price they are an excellent aternative.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19828265
> 
> 
> For arc just upload your current file but remember you will be getting another arc kit with a diff. Mic file.
> 
> John



Thanks John...Does this mean i have to re-ARC using the new mic?


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19830025
> 
> 
> What about an Anthem MRX receiver? They are getting great reviews and they come with ARC and full HD audio decoding. Video processing isn't what you would get in an AVM 50v but for the price they are an excellent aternative.
> 
> John



Yeah, I'd given those some thought, but they've only got half the horsepower for ARC of the AVM/D2, and I don't think they're as upgradable, though I guess "what more do you need" than HBR decoding, ARC, and 3D if I ever decide I care about that.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks John...Does this mean i have to re-ARC using the new mic?



Not if nothing has changed.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'd given those some thought, but they've only got half the horsepower for ARC of the AVM/D2, and I don't think they're as upgradable, though I guess "what more do you need" than HBR decoding, ARC, and 3D if I ever decide I care about that.



I have compared my D2v file with my MRX file and they are pretty close in how they corrected so there may not be a lot of difference in what you hear.

John


----------



## Lunchy

When using the headphone jack on my D2v I get a loud hissing noise. Loud enough that I have to turn the volume up very loud to try to get around it. It seems to be on all of the inputs I've tried, and turning the volume knob doesn't change the volume of the hiss.


Listening to my Oppo through HDMI and the Analog outs didn't make a difference. However, when I turned the Oppo off, the hiss was decreased but certainly not gone.


I have zero hissing problems through my main speakers, only the headphone jack. Seems pretty odd to me.


I'm running the 2.10 firmware. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/19824497
> 
> 
> My only day-to-day gripe is with the "no audio" bug. Yes, I know that switching to another source, and then back to the desired sources fixes it, but it is still very annoying. I probably average having to deal with this at least a half-dozen times per week. I find it hard to believe that Anthem thinks this is acceptable behaviour for their premier product. I am also surprised that more people here don't complain about it.



I'll add my voice to this one. In my case it's a 50v with 2.10 software. It only started in the past couple weeks though. I'm seeing a gradual increase in the number of instances where it happens and it's not related to any particular source. I re-seated all my HDMI connections the other day and it didn't help. I may try reloading the software this weekend.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/19829618
> 
> 
> What noise source did you use? Could you try with a THX Optimiser disc and see what you get?



I tried the AVM's internal noise source, a Disney "optimizer" Blu-ray, and the DVE Blu-ray.


I figured out what is going on. The centre channel is louder *only for my main seating position* because it is straight in front of that speaker. It is not so loud in the 2nd seat since it is off-axis (in fact it is a bit quieter that the LF speaker). The ARC must be averaging out all the readings for the 5 seats and setting a compromise level for each speaker.


Of course some of the surround speakers are also affected by this. So I've decided _to hell with the ARC levels_ as my primary seat is the most important, and manually set the levels to favor it with minimal compromise for the 2nd seat







The remaining seats are seldom used by anyone.


To do this I measure the the AVM's internal test noise with the RS analog meter (A weighting - thanks for the tip). This was followed by a confirmatory check on DVE's circle sweep.


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/19824497
> 
> 
> I have been really enjoying my D2v. The audio quality is excellent. As time has gone on, and I have listened to more stuff, I have become convinced that it definitely does sound better than my Anthem AVM 20v2.
> 
> 
> My only day-to-day gripe is with the "no audio" bug. Yes, I know that switching to another source, and then back to the desired sources fixes it, but it is still very annoying. I probably average having to deal with this at least a half-dozen times per week. I find it hard to believe that Anthem thinks this is acceptable behaviour for their premier product. I am also surprised that more people here don't complain about it.
> 
> 
> It is also annoying that it can't seem to remember that I want "frame lock" enabled for my blu-ray player. I have not identified specific circumstances that cause it, but I often have to re-enable the "frame lock" to get 24p. I think it may happen when I turn on the blu-ray player before the D2v, but I have not verified that.
> 
> 
> On a related note, every time I enable "frame lock" the D2v starts forcing audio out of my TV speakers (even though the TV speakers are "off" as far as the TV is concerned). To get the audio to *just* come out of my Vandersteen speakers, I have to turn the D2v off and then back on.
> 
> 
> Why doesn't Anthem move the "frame lock" setting to the main source menu, instead of having it on the "video processor" menu? If they did that, maybe it would be able to remember that I want "frame lock" always enabled.
> 
> 
> Do I need to report these issues to Anthem? I can't be the only one encountering these bugs, so I assume Anthem already knows about them.
> 
> 
> Otherwise, I am very, very happy with the D2v.
> 
> 
> John



Is the auto digital in the source menu set to NO? It should be set to NO.


Do you have at least 2 video configurations,one for 60fps and the other for 24fps? I have 2 configurations and just toggle between them as the need arises from the remote. I don't use frame lock as it is problematic on my part.


----------



## ASW

I just ran ARC measurements using 3.0.1 for the first time. Any thoughts on the attached?

Attachment 198129 

Attachment 198130 

Attachment 198131


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/19839063
> 
> 
> I just ran ARC measurements using 3.0.1 for the first time. Any thoughts on the attached?
> 
> Attachment 198129
> 
> Attachment 198130
> 
> Attachment 198131



All of your speakers are dropping off after 3 kHz which is not normal. If your speakers are placed near a wall, you should consider moving them away from the wall some if you can. If you have leather seats and your mic is placed near the back of the leather seats, you should raise the mic up until it clears the back of the seat or move the mic further away from the back of the seat. Also, since you have a drop off after 3 kHz, you should change your Max Eq Freq from 12500 to 5000. So, try repositioning the speakers if you can to eliminate the drop off after 3 kHz in your speakers. Remember, any speaker adjustment you make will require you to re-run ARC. Also, make sure your mic is pointing up to the ceiling when you take your measurements.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/19839063
> 
> 
> I just ran ARC measurements using 3.0.1 for the first time. Any thoughts on the attached?
> 
> Attachment 198129
> 
> Attachment 198130
> 
> Attachment 198131





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19839225
> 
> 
> All of your speakers are dropping off after 3 kHz which is not normal. If your speakers are placed near a wall, you should consider moving them away from the wall some if you can. If you have leather seats and your mic is placed near the back of the leather seats, you should raise the mic up until it clears the back of the seat or move the mic further away from the back of the seat. Also, since you have a drop off after 3 kHz, you should change your Max Eq Freq from 12500 to 5000. So, try repositioning the speakers if you can to eliminate the drop off after 3 kHz in your speakers. Remember, any speaker adjustment you make will require you to re-run ARC. Also, make sure your mic is pointing up to the ceiling when you take your measurements.



Excellent points ninja12!


ASW...also remember to set the subwoofer EQ to flat. You have excellent subwoofer response so make sure ARC takes care of it by extending it as flat as possible to 20Hz and below.


----------



## groy67

Hello everyone,


I have the avm50v and I'm very close to using it as an anchor.... I have huge problems with the the handshake between other components.

I have a 50" Samsung Plasma, Bell Xpressvu, Popcorn media player, Samsung Bluray, and Xbox 360 and other components but not related to HDMI problems.

Sometimes, video plays without sound or the opposite; or at times nothing. I went to the dealer where I purchased the AVM and they recommended that I use component cables and optics. So, that being said I bought the Anthem because the advantages of the HDMI. I love the capabilities of this unit, but very frustrated... and more so hearing the better half reminding me and "and why did you buy this?" lol

Thank you in advance

Hope I'm not stealing this thread...


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *groy67* /forum/post/19841446
> 
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> 
> I have the avm50v and I'm very close to using it as an anchor.... I have huge problems with the the handshake between other components.
> 
> I have a 50" Samsung Plasma, Bell Xpressvu, Popcorn media player, Samsung Bluray, and Xbox 360 and other components but not related to HDMI problems.
> 
> Sometimes, video plays without sound or the opposite; or at times nothing. I went to the dealer where I purchased the AVM and they recommended that I use component cables and optics. So, that being said I bought the Anthem because the advantages of the HDMI. I love the capabilities of this unit, but very frustrated... and more so hearing the better half reminding me and "and why did you buy this?" lol
> 
> Thank you in advance
> 
> Hope I'm not stealing this thread...



There are members here who would like to help you.

So how about providing some more specific information on your problems.

What firmware to you have loaded ?

What type of connections between your sources and the Anthem ?

Are you feeding sound to multiple amps or direct to the tv ?he so

What are your current video settings for the Anthem ?


And this makes no sense at all so please clarify:


"I have a 50" Samsung Plasma, Bell Xpressvu, Popcorn media player, Samsung Bluray, and Xbox 360 and other components but not related to HDMI problems. "


----------



## ASW

Speakers are mounted on a stone wall, in wall and in ceiling, so moving them is not an option. I will try re-measuring and see if I get different results. Also, will set sub to flat.


Thanks.


----------



## groy67

Thank you for your reply,


Software is V2.10


I'm using the Anthem MCA 30 to run ctr and rears, Bryston 4Bsst to power the mains and a 3Bsst to power surrounds.

All components are coneected via Monster Cable HDMI.

I'm using XLR cables from processor to amps

All speakers are Axioms. 2 PSB subs


My video config is as follows;

a-S video OSD = NTSC

B - prefered = HDMI

C - Reso = 1280x720p60

d - color space = auto

e - data = auto

f output = auto

g - letterbox= blk

h - sync - normal

compt2 = passthrou


I think I used every possible conf but with no success... but I'm pretty sure I'm missing something.


Thank you for all your help


----------



## groy67




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19841537
> 
> 
> There are members here who would like to help you.
> 
> So how about providing some more specific information on your problems.
> 
> What firmware to you have loaded ?
> 
> What type of connections between your sources and the Anthem ?
> 
> Are you feeding sound to multiple amps or direct to the tv ?he so
> 
> What are your current video settings for the Anthem ?
> 
> 
> And this makes no sense at all so please clarify:
> 
> 
> "I have a 50" Samsung Plasma, Bell Xpressvu, Popcorn media player, Samsung Bluray, and Xbox 360 and other components but not related to HDMI problems. "



sorry for not quoting...


Thank you for your reply,


Software is V2.10


I'm using the Anthem MCA 30 to run ctr and rears, Bryston 4Bsst to power the mains and a 3Bsst to power surrounds.

All components are coneected via Monster Cable HDMI.

I'm using XLR cables from processor to amps

All speakers are Axioms. 2 PSB subs


My video config is as follows;

a-S video OSD = NTSC

B - prefered = HDMI

C - Reso = 1280x720p60

d - color space = auto

e - data = auto

f output = auto

g - letterbox= blk

h - sync - normal

compt2 = passthrou


I think I used every possible conf but with no success... but I'm pretty sure I'm missing something.


Thank you for all your help


----------



## joni7

Hello, Im having a heck of a time with Appletv2 and the AVM50v. Use HDMI, upon switching from various sources, the screen flashes a red background and I cannot get the picture and sound. Even my WII is now not working (also an hdmi connection). Bluray player and SAT (directv) seems to work without issue. I only get appletv2 to work intermittently but spent over 45min this evening unplugging, rebooting appletv2 and can't get it to come on the screen without blinking red background or just simply blank screen.


Are my HDMI inputs malfunctioning?


----------



## Kishore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *groy67* /forum/post/19841446
> 
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> 
> I have a 50" Samsung Plasma, Bell Xpressvu, Popcorn media player, Samsung Bluray, and Xbox 360 and other components but not related to HDMI problems.
> 
> Sometimes, video plays without sound or the opposite; or at times nothing.



Have you configured each input correctly (label, defined audio input, video input, video output etc)? I presume you have 4 HDMI inputs to processor (and you are not using coax or component)?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *groy67* /forum/post/19841446
> 
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> 
> I have the avm50v and I'm very close to using it as an anchor.... I have huge problems with the the handshake between other components.
> 
> I have a 50" Samsung Plasma, Bell Xpressvu, Popcorn media player, Samsung Bluray, and Xbox 360 and other components but not related to HDMI problems.
> 
> Sometimes, video plays without sound or the opposite; or at times nothing. I went to the dealer where I purchased the AVM and they recommended that I use component cables and optics. So, that being said I bought the Anthem because the advantages of the HDMI. I love the capabilities of this unit, but very frustrated... and more so hearing the better half reminding me and "and why did you buy this?" lol
> 
> Thank you in advance
> 
> Hope I'm not stealing this thread...



See post 31997 it may have some info. that may help.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *groy67* /forum/post/19842115
> 
> 
> sorry for not quoting...
> 
> 
> Thank you for your reply,
> 
> 
> Software is V2.10
> 
> 
> I'm using the Anthem MCA 30 to run ctr and rears, Bryston 4Bsst to power the mains and a 3Bsst to power surrounds.
> 
> All components are coneected via Monster Cable HDMI.
> 
> I'm using XLR cables from processor to amps
> 
> All speakers are Axioms. 2 PSB subs
> 
> 
> My video config is as follows;
> 
> a-S video OSD = NTSC
> 
> B - prefered = HDMI
> 
> C - Reso = 1280x720p60
> 
> d - color space = auto
> 
> e - data = auto
> 
> f output = auto
> 
> g - letterbox= blk
> 
> h - sync - normal
> 
> compt2 = passthrou
> 
> 
> I think I used every possible conf but with no success... but I'm pretty sure I'm missing something.
> 
> 
> Thank you for all your help



Ok you have good audio components and they should be able to do the job.


Are you in the USA ?

Is your Plasma TV only 720P capable ?

The video setup you stated is not the basic AVM 50V video source setup.

I suggest you go back to the Anthem User Manual (Available Here) 

and start setting up your sources as outlined on page 32

setting up each source properly.

One suggestion is that you use component video connections and digital audio for your Bell Xpressvu as many users have HDMI handshake problems with cable boxes and they only use 1080i and 5.1 DD audio.

Then go to the Speaker Configuration and Mode Setup to set up your 7.1 audio system.


Good Luck


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> All of your speakers are dropping off after 3 kHz which is not normal. If your speakers are placed near a wall, you should consider moving them away from the wall some if you can. If you have leather seats and your mic is placed near the back of the leather seats, you should raise the mic up until it clears the back of the seat or move the mic further away from the back of the seat. Also, since you have a drop off after 3 kHz, you should change your Max Eq Freq from 12500 to 5000. So, try repositioning the speakers if you can to eliminate the drop off after 3 kHz in your speakers. Remember, any speaker adjustment you make will require you to re-run ARC. Also, make sure your mic is pointing up to the ceiling when you take your measurements.



I remeasured and got slightly better results. I think my issue may be speakers mounted high on a stone wall and a very large couch. Also, I have NHT Classic 3 speakers that have a foam insert to avoid crosstalk between the tweeter and midrange. I wonder if the foam is affecting the high end response?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/19843518
> 
> 
> I remeasured and got slightly better results. I think my issue may be speakers mounted high on a stone wall and a very large couch. Also, I have NHT Classic 3 speakers that have a foam insert to avoid crosstalk between the tweeter and midrange. I wonder if the foam is affecting the high end response?



Did you reduce the Max Eq Freq from 12500 to 5000 as

recommended by Ninja12 ?


You say the front speakers are mounted high on a stone wall. Is it possible to angle the front speakers to point down and slightly toe them in rather then straight ahead ?

Then repost all your charts


----------



## Donloz

And this makes no sense at all so please clarify:


"I have a 50" Samsung Plasma, Bell Xpressvu, Popcorn media player, Samsung Bluray, and Xbox 360 and other components but not related to HDMI problems. "[/quote]


This makes perfect sense if you are a canuck.


----------



## jpoet

Quote:

Originally Posted by *abc999* 
Is the auto digital in the source menu set to NO? It should be set to NO.
It was set to YES. I will give NO a try and see if that helps.
Quote:

Do you have at least 2 video configurations,one for 60fps and the other for 24fps? I have 2 configurations and just toggle between them as the need arises from the remote. I don't use frame lock as it is problematic on my part.
I can also give that a try. However, I don't understand why "frame lock" is not the default. Who would not want the native refresh rate passed through to the TV? I suppose if you wanted to watch a PAL DVD in North America, but that seems like the exception, not the rule.


Thank you very much, abc999, for the suggestions!


John


----------



## Donloz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *groy67* 
Hello everyone,


I have the avm50v and I'm very close to using it as an anchor.... I have huge problems with the the handshake between other components.

I have a 50" Samsung Plasma, Bell Xpressvu, Popcorn media player, Samsung Bluray, and Xbox 360 and other components but not related to HDMI problems.

Sometimes, video plays without sound or the opposite; or at times nothing. I went to the dealer where I purchased the AVM and they recommended that I use component cables and optics. So, that being said I bought the Anthem because the advantages of the HDMI. I love the capabilities of this unit, but very frustrated... and more so hearing the better half reminding me and "and why did you buy this?" lol

Thank you in advance

Hope I'm not stealing this thread...








I feel for you bud, if I hear one more time to use componet and optics instead of the HDMI, I'm going to SCREAM. I may as well get the VCR and 8-track out of the bsmt closet. I was going to wait for the D3, Ya right, but now I will wait for the Bryston SP3. The reason this unit (SP3) is over a year long coming out is


----------



## jpoet

My Samsung HL-67A750 DLP tv can do 3D as long as it is in the HDMI 1.3 compatible "checkerboard" format. That format throws away half the resolution, so does not need the extra bandwidth of HDMI 1.4. I figured since it was _just_ HDMI 1.3, I would have no problem with it and my D2v -- I was wrong.


I have tried tweaking various settings on the D2v, but no matter what I do, my TV does not recognize the input as being "3D". If I hook up the HDMI directly from my blu-ray player to the TV, then it works fine.


So, it seems like the D2v is messing with the video somehow. Does anyone know how to get the D2v "out of the way", to where it just passes the video unaltered to the TV?


I sent an email to Anthem support about it, but they just responded that the D2v is not 3D compatible. I tried to explain to them that the "checkerboard" format is HDMI 1.3 compatible, so there is no reason the D2v should have any trouble with it, but they just re-iterated that the D2v is not 3D compatible.


My blu-ray player only has 1 hdmi output, so I guess I will hook that up directly to the TV when I want to watch a 3D movie -- but that means I have to use S/PDIF to get audio into the D2v.


I was hoping for an excuse to buy the new OPPO, but it does not have the option to output in the checkerboard format.


John


----------



## Shrike645

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jpoet* 
My Samsung HL-67A750 DLP tv can do 3D as long as it is in the HDMI 1.3 compatible "checkerboard" format. That format throws away half the resolution, so does not need the extra bandwidth of HDMI 1.4. I figured since it was _just_ HDMI 1.3, I would have no problem with it and my D2v -- I was wrong.


I have tried tweaking various settings on the D2v, but no matter what I do, my TV does not recognize the input as being "3D". If I hook up the HDMI directly from my blu-ray player to the TV, then it works fine.


So, it seems like the D2v is messing with the video somehow. Does anyone know how to get the D2v "out of the way", to where it just passes the video unaltered to the TV?


I sent an email to Anthem support about it, but they just responded that the D2v is not 3D compatible. I tried to explain to them that the "checkerboard" format is HDMI 1.3 compatible, so there is no reason the D2v should have any trouble with it, but they just re-iterated that the D2v is not 3D compatible.


My blu-ray player only has 1 hdmi output, so I guess I will hook that up directly to the TV when I want to watch a 3D movie -- but that means I have to use S/PDIF to get audio into the D2v.


I was hoping for an excuse to buy the new OPPO, but it does not have the option to output in the checkerboard format.


John
There is no video pass through on a D2v.


----------



## jpoet

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Shrike645* 
There is no video pass through on a D2v.
So, the next question is: Why?


Did Anthem make a mistake when choosing the hardware components, or does it just need a software update?


The audio quality of the D2v is excellent. I am a bit disappointed by the video, though.



John


----------



## yacht422

I have not posted results in some months - things were ok.

Just reconfigured the acoustical treatments, and remeasured.

Results attached, and any insights are appreciated.

Also, i have a pair of servo 15's. Do they fit the bill for lowering the sub level?

Thx

walt


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have not posted results in some months - things were ok.
> 
> Just reconfigured the acoustical treatments, and remeasured.
> 
> Results attached, and any insights are appreciated.
> 
> Also, i have a pair of servo 15's. Do they fit the bill for lowering the sub level?
> 
> Thx
> 
> walt



Charts look very good. Subs look good too but positioning may improve the measured curve. Where are your subs located? I had a servo 15 and it is very capable. As well you might want to set the sub high pass to Flat.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/19847023
> 
> 
> I have not posted results in some months - things were ok.
> 
> Just reconfigured the acoustical treatments, and remeasured.
> 
> Results attached, and any insights are appreciated.
> 
> Also, i have a pair of servo 15's. Do they fit the bill for lowering the sub level?
> 
> Thx
> 
> walt



Walt:


You're charts are 10dB too low, pegged at 65dB reference level instead of the standard 75dB SPL level. You know the rules...simply go back and adjust the test level in the setup menu until you read an SPL of 75dB with your RS meter in your primary listening position







.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19847235
> 
> 
> Charts look very good. Subs look good too but positioning may improve the measured curve. Where are your subs located? I had a servo 15 and it is very capable. As well you might want to set the sun high pass to Flat.
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19847361
> 
> 
> Walt:
> 
> 
> You're charts are 10dB too low, pegged at 65dB reference level instead of the standard 75dB SPL level. You know the rules...simply go back and adjust the test level in the setup menu until you read an SPL of 75dB with your RS meter in your primary listening position
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



I agree with jayray and dmusoke assessment.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *groy67* /forum/post/19841446
> 
> 
> Sometimes, video plays without sound or the opposite; or at times nothing. I went to the dealer where I purchased the AVM and they recommended that I use component cables and optics. So, that being said I bought the Anthem because the advantages of the HDMI.



Not to mention that's doing nothing to fix the actual problem, or even find out the cause.







Tell your dealer if it wasn't for HDMI we would have been done upgrading 5 years ago or we'd all be buying our gear on Audiogon, and they would be out of business.


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19849458
> 
> 
> I agree with jayray and dmusoke assessment.



gents: thx for the response.

re: reference 75 db.

cannot get there.

i have the "test" tone set at +8.5 which yields 75dB on the rat shack meter.

however, after completing the sweeps, the results you see are what i get.

further, i was in contact last year with 'andrew' at anthem, and he recommended i go no high than +3.5, as going higher will not yield better results. this has proven to be true, as i achieve a reference 65dB, regardless of the test tone intensity.

this new lower level happened after i upgraded to the latest arc - i am one of the few that cannot go above 65 dB.

on the bright side, when i listen to music(try mahler's 2nd on dvd







) or movies, i still set the volume level at -10 for most movies, -5 for music, which is where i have always set the volumes, 65dB vs: 75dB, notwithstanding.

i'll reset the subs as recommended.

placement of the subs is, as we all know, a LABOR of love, esp with the heavier units.

anyone available to help?









as always, my appreciation.

walt, in finally thawing out florida.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> gents: thx for the response.
> 
> re: reference 75 db.
> 
> cannot get there.
> 
> i have the "test" tone set at +8.5 which yields 75dB on the rat shack meter.
> 
> however, after completing the sweeps, the results you see are what i get.
> 
> further, i was in contact last year with 'andrew' at anthem, and he recommended i go no high than +3.5, as going higher will not yield better results. this has proven to be true, as i achieve a reference 65dB, regardless of the test tone intensity.
> 
> this new lower level happened after i upgraded to the latest arc - i am one of the few that cannot go above 65 dB.
> 
> on the bright side, when i listen to music(try mahler's 2nd on dvd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) or movies, i still set the volume level at -10 for most movies, -5 for music, which is where i have always set the volumes, 65dB vs: 75dB, notwithstanding.
> 
> i'll reset the subs as recommended.
> 
> placement of the subs is, as we all know, a LABOR of love, esp with the heavier units.
> 
> anyone available to help?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as always, my appreciation.
> 
> walt, in finally thawing out florida.



Nick has told me on many occasions not to worry about the dB levels on the charts but to see if I have to turn volume levels up or down compared to previous measurements. Not once have the chart levels affected my volume so I don't loose any sleep over this any more.

John


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19847235
> 
> 
> Charts look very good. Subs look good too but positioning may improve the measured curve. Where are your subs located? I had a servo 15 and it is very capable. As well you might want to set the sub high pass to Flat.
> 
> John



john: the left sub faces _front to rear_ of room, and the cone measures 65" from the front wall.

the cone of the unit on the right, (again, facing front to rear) is 40" from the front wall, and 60" from the right side wall.

i had them mid room, facing each other(a recommended arrangement), but had hot spots in the rear corners(where i have super chunks, floor to ceiling), and _holes_ in the center of the room. the current locations smoothed things out.

room is 16+ X 23 X 9.5, eight leather chairs - i mention this, as the room gain changes depending on whether i measure with the backs up, or down.

- - - and, of course it would change again with bodies in room.

everything is a compromise.









thanks for your interest -

walt


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19849458
> 
> 
> I agree with jayray and dmusoke assessment.



new question: my gain at 1.17 looks low to me - there are various opinions as to the value of gain, but, for movies, is that gain too low? Is it possible to answer _why is it too low_?

regarding music - i enjoy dvd concerts, as opposed to cd type music. does this mean that there really is no need to have a different gain for movies and music?

thx

walt


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> new question: my gain at 1.17 looks low to me - there are various opinions as to the value of gain, but, for movies, is that gain too low? Is it possible to answer why is it too low?
> 
> regarding music - i enjoy dvd concerts, as opposed to cd type music. does this mean that there really is no need to have a different gain for movies and music?
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



Try raising in 1dB increments up to 2dB at most.

John


----------



## steven2583

I have a D2v and trying to get composite video out. I hooked up a small 7 in monitor to the composite and plan to use it to view my DNLA device (OPPO 93). I don't want to turn on the large RPTV all of the time to just play some music. The OPPO is connected via HDMI. Any ideas what I need to set to get a picture?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19850301
> 
> 
> Nick has told me on many occasions not to worry about the dB levels on the charts but to see if I have to turn volume levels up or down compared to previous measurements. Not once have the chart levels affected my volume so I don't loose any sleep over this any more.
> 
> John



I too have graphs that read 65db even though my SPL Meter reads 75, I raised my test level to +13 and now my graphs are 72db. I wonder if this is why my music sounds too bright at high levels. I'm going to trust my SPL Meter and bring it back down and not worry about the graphs as was suggested to you.


Thanks


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19852396
> 
> 
> I too have graphs that read 65db even though my SPL Meter reads 75, I raised my test level to +13 and now my graphs are 72db. I wonder if this is why my music sounds too bright at high levels. I'm going to trust my SPL Meter and bring it back down and not worry about the graphs as was suggested to you.
> 
> 
> Thanks



fwiw: i find that my charts are _smoother_ when i use the higher reference noise (+8) as opposed to the lower tone(+3.5). That is why i choose to use the higher noise level when i performed the most recent sweeps.

it is true, also, that the overall sound is brighter when using the higher number.


walt


----------



## politby




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/19803794
> 
> 
> I can't find much on the Canton AS225SC but I did see this explanation of SC technology:
> 
> Canton's in-house SC technology defines redefines the relationship between speaker volume and bass reproduction using individual filter switches and extends the speakers transmission range by an octave and more downwards - and this with unbelievable level consistency.
> 
> 
> Is it possible that is somehow the culprit?
> 
> 
> Oh and is this a 10" driver with a 200watt amp? May be too small for your room.



Both of these are possibilities, I guess. But I think the explanation will be found in speaker positioning.


The sub is placed against the back wall of the room (down firing) and fires directly down against the hardwood flooring. But between the sub and the listening position is the backrest of a large curved couch that is placed about 4 feet from the sub. So ARC position #1 is just behind a thick backrest as seen from the sub.


Maybe the couch acts as an attenuator for low frequences.


----------



## Heybrook

Hey Guys;


I`m just new here and having a problem with getting the proper sound. As one can see from the png files I have attached that my fronts are not calibrating anywhere near target, especially at low end and high end frequencies.

Could someone give me some insight as to how I can correct this problem.


Thx Heybrook


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Heybrook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Guys;
> 
> 
> I`m just new here and having a problem with getting the proper sound. As one can see from the png files I have attached that my fronts are not calibrating anywhere near target, especially at low end and high end frequencies.
> 
> Could someone give me some insight as to how I can correct this problem.
> 
> 
> Thx Heybrook



I'm not sure what is going on with your fronts but try moving your sub to bump up the measured curve in the 100Hz frequency range. You can use the Quick measure feature in ARC to try diff. positions.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Heybrook* /forum/post/19856397
> 
> 
> Hey Guys;
> 
> 
> I`m just new here and having a problem with getting the proper sound. As one can see from the png files I have attached that my fronts are not calibrating anywhere near target, especially at low end and high end frequencies.
> 
> Could someone give me some insight as to how I can correct this problem.
> 
> 
> Thx Heybrook



Looks like the woofers for you mains are not working. I would suggest only playing the mains and play something with bass to see if your woofers are producing the LF. What are you using for your mains? Something really looks way wrong with your mains.


----------



## Heybrook

My fronts are Watson Lab10s. I`m pretty sure they are not designed for H/T systems but it`s a money thing.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Heybrook* /forum/post/19856990
> 
> 
> My fronts are Watson Lab10s. I`m pretty sure they are not designed for H/T systems but it`s a money thing.



Also if your speakers have a jumper on the back to strap the woofers and tweeters check that it is tight and has a good connection.



You won't be the first that has found something wrong with their speakers using ARC.


----------



## Milwaukeesk

Can anybody offer up any simple advice as to how to adjust the phase control on my sub to seamlessly integrate with my mains? My sub has a phase dial which allows for more control but every time I try to adjust I feel like I am just guessing at where it should be. Personally when I move the dial from one end all the way to another I don't hear a huge difference. A little background into what I am actually supposed to be looking / listening for while adjusting might also be helpful. I'm sure I'm leaving out other info you need to help. Let me know if I can provide more info on my set-up.


Does ARC automatically adjust for the the phase meaning I don't have to touch it regardless to how it is adjusted?


Can you tell i'm confused? Am I the only one that hasn't figured this out.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/19857194
> 
> 
> Can anybody offer up any simple advice as to how to adjust the phase control on my sub to seamlessly integrate with my mains? My sub has a phase dial which allows for more control but every time I try to adjust I feel like I am just guessing at where it should be. Personally when I move the dial from one end all the way to another I don't hear a huge difference. A little background into what I am actually supposed to be looking / listening for while adjusting might also be helpful. I'm sure I'm leaving out other info you need to help. Let me know if I can provide more info on my set-up.
> 
> 
> Does ARC automatically adjust for the the phase meaning I don't have to touch it regardless to how it is adjusted?
> 
> 
> Can you tell i'm confused? Am I the only one that hasn't figured this out.




ARC does not adjust for phase or polarity.


Check out the first post for links on how to adjust these.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/19857194
> 
> 
> 
> Does ARC automatically adjust for the the phase meaning I don't have to touch it regardless to how it is adjusted?



ARC does not ADJUST PHASE.


Try reading *POST #1 Here* - It Tells you how to adjust Phase


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19857254
> 
> 
> ARC does not adjust for phase or polarity.
> 
> 
> Check out the first post for links on how to adjust these.



You BEAT ME


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19857261
> 
> 
> You BEAT ME



At least we are giving the same advice.


----------



## Milwaukeesk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19857261
> 
> 
> You BEAT ME



So let me get this straight...ARC does not adjust for phase










Thanks, I must of missed the link on the first page. Going to read it now. Much appreciated.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/19857295
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I must of missed the link on the first page. Going to read it now. Much appreciated.



Just search on the word phase


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/19857194
> 
> 
> Can anybody offer up any simple advice as to how to adjust the phase control on my sub to seamlessly integrate with my mains? My sub has a phase dial which allows for more control but every time I try to adjust I feel like I am just guessing at where it should be. Personally when I move the dial from one end all the way to another I don't hear a huge difference. A little background into what I am actually supposed to be looking / listening for while adjusting might also be helpful. I'm sure I'm leaving out other info you need to help. Let me know if I can provide more info on my set-up.
> 
> 
> Does ARC automatically adjust for the the phase meaning I don't have to touch it regardless to how it is adjusted?
> 
> 
> Can you tell i'm confused? Am I the only one that hasn't figured this out.



If you have not found anything yet get or find a pink noise mp3 off of the internet or a calibration disk with one and play the pink noise adjust the phase knob until you hear the loudest noise or most pressurized sound. You could also play a certain frequency and do the same. If you need a file with frequency tones let me know.


John


----------



## Milwaukeesk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19858412
> 
> 
> If you have not found anything yet get or find a pink noise mp3 off of the internet or a calibration disk with one and play the pink noise adjust the phase knob until you hear the loudest noise or most pressurized sound. You could also play a certain frequency and do the same. If you need a file with frequency tones let me know.
> 
> 
> John



Thanks John. I have the Digital Video Essentials BR which I believe has a phase track. I will adjust it tonight following your advice.


Thanks.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Heybrook* /forum/post/19856990
> 
> 
> My fronts are Watson Lab10s. I`m pretty sure they are not designed for H/T systems but it`s a money thing.



Whoa just googled those... they be some strange lookin speakers.







I'd almost be willing to bet that bottom cabinet with the two woofers isn't doing anything in your system. Hey virtual internet money is unlimited so I can bet all I want. Good luck something very strange is going on with your fronts.


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/19857194
> 
> 
> Can anybody offer up any simple advice as to how to adjust the phase control on my sub to seamlessly integrate with my mains? My sub has a phase dial which allows for more control but every time I try to adjust I feel like I am just guessing at where it should be. Personally when I move the dial from one end all the way to another I don't hear a huge difference. A little background into what I am actually supposed to be looking / listening for while adjusting might also be helpful. I'm sure I'm leaving out other info you need to help. Let me know if I can provide more info on my set-up.
> 
> 
> Does ARC automatically adjust for the the phase meaning I don't have to touch it regardless to how it is adjusted?
> 
> 
> Can you tell i'm confused? Am I the only one that hasn't figured this out.



Hi,


here's a full thread on this subject with a couple of simple ways to set phase.


Hope this helps. Cheers.


Tony


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/19857194
> 
> 
> Can anybody offer up any simple advice as to how to adjust the phase control on my sub to seamlessly integrate with my mains? My sub has a phase dial which allows for more control but every time I try to adjust I feel like I am just guessing at where it should be. Personally when I move the dial from one end all the way to another I don't hear a huge difference. A little background into what I am actually supposed to be looking / listening for while adjusting might also be helpful. I'm sure I'm leaving out other info you need to help. Let me know if I can provide more info on my set-up.
> 
> 
> Does ARC automatically adjust for the the phase meaning I don't have to touch it regardless to how it is adjusted?
> 
> 
> Can you tell i'm confused? Am I the only one that hasn't figured this out.










I understand completely. I offered two easy ways to calibrate the subs with the mains in my post here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630 .


The results are definately well worth it ... but it involves setting the sub phase knob to 0 and _adjusting the subwoofer distance_ in the 50v/D2v setup menu.


----------



## Heybrook

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Shrike645* 
Also if your speakers have a jumper on the back to strap the woofers and tweeters check that it is tight and has a good connection.



You won't be the first that has found something wrong with their speakers using ARC.
The subs and tweeters are separate cabinets,unless you mean the woofers in the upper part[never had the covers off so I`m not sure about the insides]

But I am curious as to what others have found wrong with them.


----------



## Shrike645

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Heybrook* 
The subs and tweeters are separate cabinets,unless you mean the woofers in the upper part[never had the covers off so I`m not sure about the insides]

But I am curious as to what others have found wrong with them.
Several people have found that they had blown drivers after seeing their charts. We've been calling it "Richard syndrome" as I believe he was the first to experience this. I ran into the case on my Von Schweikerts where the jumper between the upper drivers and lower drivers was loose and it showed up with no bottom end on one of my fronts.


Do you have separate wires running to each cabinet? It sure doesn't look like your bottom cabinets are working.


----------



## abc999

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Heybrook* 
The subs and tweeters are separate cabinets,unless you mean the woofers in the upper part[never had the covers off so I`m not sure about the insides]

But I am curious as to what others have found wrong with them.
From the first graph, your LR fronts do not have any acoustic energy below 250 hertz which corresponds to the crossover point of the woofers and mid-woofers fron the literature available from the net about your speakers. The woofers are just not working.It might be the drivers,crossover or just plain jumper (connectivity) problem.


I hope you did not separate the lower woofers from the upper cabinet enclosure and used them as your subs powered by an external amp?


Alvin


----------



## Heybrook

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Shrike645* 
Several people have found that they had blown drivers after seeing their charts. We've been calling it "Richard syndrome" as I believe he was the first to experience this. I ran into the case on my Von Schweikerts where the jumper between the upper drivers and lower drivers was loose and it showed up with no bottom end on one of my fronts.


Do you have separate wires running to each cabinet? It sure doesn't look like your bottom cabinets are working.
Yes the top is wired separate from the sub [and I have read about that syndrome ] and the sub is working. That is the way they were designed. I believe there is an internal crossover,which I doubt I could adjust.


I played only the fronts on stereo FM and all speakers are firing and know noticeable distortion. I have never listened to them this way before so I`m not sure how much bass should be coming out of just the tops, but I can hear the drum kit albeit no punch.


I guess my next step is taking them apart and checking internal wiring. Just when the honey do list was getting short.......


----------



## obie_fl

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Heybrook* 
Yes the top is wired separate from the sub [and I have read about that syndrome ] and the sub is working. That is the way they were designed. I believe there is an internal crossover,which I doubt I could adjust.
Hang on a second... Are you calling the sub the two woofers in the box at the bottom? Do you have the bottom cabinet (sub) hooked up to the sub output of the Anthem? If so that would explain your ARC graphs. The write up I saw on your speakers say the woofers are crossed at 250hz which corresponds to your charts. Do you have a dedicated subwoofer in addition to your two woofer boxes on your mains? You really need to send the left/right main signal to the woofer boxes or else you will have a pretty big hole in the all important 100 to 250hz range.


----------



## frank robison

I have two subs and recently purchased the AS-EQ1 and enjoy the results.


Took the plunge tonight and purchased the D2V. So.. I need a bit of help...


Do I leave the settings in the AS-EQ1 as they current are and then run the ARC?


----------



## Heybrook

Yes the sub is hooked up to the Anthem on sub2 with a "Y" as my other powered sub is on sub1. Upon investigating this I have found that the sub[2] is really not putting out any punch, but I`m not sure why this would give me bad readings on my fronts. I used this setup for yrs with stereo and powered the sub [or what I think your calling the bottom box] with a Bryston and the mains with a Classe Starting to think maybe more than 1 problem. Some of this equipment is getting pretty old. Could be the X over in the mains [top box] is shot.


Thx for all the help I`ll keep you all posted on what I find....


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19858412
> 
> 
> If you have not found anything yet get or find a pink noise mp3 off of the internet or a calibration disk with one and play the pink noise adjust the phase knob until you hear the loudest noise or most pressurized sound.



There's always the noise between FM stations - works just as well.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Heybrook* /forum/post/19860981
> 
> 
> Yes the sub is hooked up to the Anthem on sub2 with a "Y" as my other powered sub is on sub1. Upon investigating this I have found that the sub[2] is really not putting out any punch, but I`m not sure why this would give me bad readings on my fronts. I used this setup for yrs with stereo and powered the sub [or what I think your calling the bottom box] with a Bryston and the mains with a Classe Starting to think maybe more than 1 problem. Some of this equipment is getting pretty old. Could be the X over in the mains [top box] is shot.
> 
> 
> Thx for all the help I`ll keep you all posted on what I find....



OK That is your problem then. Think of the left and right woofer boxes as part of your mains not your subwoofer. The way you have it hooked up right now they will only get signal under your sub crossover... approximately 100hz. Your speakers are designed to crossover to the woofers at 250hz with its built in crossover. This leaves you with a huge hole between 100 - 250hz. You need to use the left and right signal for both the bottom woofer and your upper mains.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frank robison* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have two subs and recently purchased the AS-EQ1 and enjoy the results.
> 
> 
> Took the plunge tonight and purchased the D2V. So.. I need a bit of help...
> 
> 
> Do I leave the settings in the AS-EQ1 as they current are and then run the ARC?



I would first try running ARC without any EQing by your sub. ARC is very good at EQing subs and generally does a better job than other sub correction systems. If the results are not to your liking or the charts don't look good, then you can EQ your sub's and then run ARC. Post your charts when done measuring.

John


----------



## Heybrook

OK Thanks Tom I`ll jumper the top to the bottom and see what I get.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19861246
> 
> 
> I would first try running ARC without any EQing by your sub. ARC is very good at EQing subs and generally does a better job than other sub correction systems. If the results are not to your liking or the charts don't look good, then you can EQ your sub's and then run ARC. Post your charts when done measuring.
> 
> John



Good point jayray... I find the advantage of the AS-EQ1 is when you have multiple subs in a room when phasing between the subs and between subs and mains matters. For a single sub, ARC does a great job.


----------



## p.las

hello.

i have just purchased a AVM 50. it´s hocket up to at M&K s150 speaker setup. after i run ARC on advanced setting, i can see it sets the room gain to 0,08466. why is it so low. i can see that other have somtimes a room gain that says 3,5550 or more. i had tryet to increase the the gain to 1,08466 . it seams like i ads more body to the sound , but still very open. is it okay to experiment with the gain?.

regard peter denmark


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19862027
> 
> 
> hello.
> 
> i have just purchased a AVM 50. it´s hocket up to at M&K s150 speaker setup. after i run ARC on advanced setting, i can see it sets the room gain to 0,08466. why is it so low. i can see that other have somtimes a room gain that says 3,5550 or more. i had tryet to increase the the gain to 1,08466 . it seams like i ads more body to the sound , but still very open. is it okay to experiment with the gain?.
> 
> regard peter denmark



The why of room gain has been covered many times throughout this thread. The main point is that there is no specific value that is considered correct. Everyones room is different, hence different room gains. Experimenting with this value is part of the fun of using ARC. My original value maxed out at 3.9, but after testing various values, I ended up setting Movies to 3.0 and Music to 0. Go wild and test any values you want. It's only a single click to return to the original ARC determined values.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU* /forum/post/19862157
> 
> 
> The why of room gain has been covered many times throughout this thread. The main point is that there is no specific value that is considered correct. Everyones room is different, hence different room gains. Experimenting with this value is part of the fun of using ARC. My original value maxed out at 3.9, but after testing various values, I ended up setting Movies to 3.0 and Music to 0. Go wild and test any values you want. It's only a single click to return to the original ARC determined values.



is a higher number the same as more bass?


----------



## frank robison




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19861525
> 
> 
> Good point jayray... I find the advantage of the AS-EQ1 is when you have multiple subs in a room when phasing between the subs and between subs and mains matters. For a single sub, ARC does a great job.



Thanks for the input. I have two subs.. thus I believe I will EQ first with the AS-EQ1 as through further reading it will not only tame peaks and flatten room response but time align the subs. Then I will EQ the entire speaker array using using ARC.


If I do not like the results to my subs with both AS-EQ1 and the ARC running simultaneously, then is there a way to defeat the ARC below a certain frequency? (I believe with two subs running the AS-EQ1 will have an advantage over the ARC).


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19862176
> 
> 
> is a higher number the same as more bass?



Yes a higher number is more bass as seen by the "hump" in the graphs rising in db level.


ARC can also have problems calculating a correct room gain when the room response has issues in the crossover ranges.


----------



## Milwaukeesk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19859573
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I understand completely. I offered two easy ways to calibrate the subs with the mains in my post here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630 .
> 
> 
> The results are definately well worth it ... but it involves setting the sub phase knob to 0 and _adjusting the subwoofer distance_ in the 50v/D2v setup menu.



Thank you TKO1 and dmusoke. I ended up using the method where I adjusted the distance settings with the null approach and I can actually say it made an audible difference. I appreciate both of your help. It feels good to know I finally have this taken care of.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19862556
> 
> 
> Yes a higher number is more bass as seen by the "hump" in the graphs rising in db level.
> 
> 
> ARC can also have problems calculating a correct room gain when the room response has issues in the crossover ranges.



ARC does not make a speaker try to play something it thinks can't be played by the speakers according to in-room measurement. If ARC sees low end response drop off before it gets into room gain territory, it leaves it alone.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frank robison* /forum/post/19862246
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. I have two subs.. thus I believe I will EQ first with the AS-EQ1 as through further reading it will not only tame peaks and flatten room response but time align the subs. Then I will EQ the entire speaker array using using ARC.
> 
> 
> If I do not like the results to my subs with both AS-EQ1 and the ARC running simultaneously, then is there a way to defeat the ARC below a certain frequency? (I believe with two subs running the AS-EQ1 will have an advantage over the ARC).



No ...







for that would defeat the whole purpose of ARC. All untreated room problems occur from 500Hz and below so that's why you see many EQ systems and bass traps target these range of frequencies to eliminate nasty resonances caused by the ratios of your room dimensions(length, width and height).


But really, no need to worry about all this. Once you've EQ'd with the AS1, ARC will now see that you have a very clean bass response so it will not touch your bass curves any further. So in effect, you get what you originally wanted. To let the AS1 handle the low frequencies and ARC handle the rest.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/19862877
> 
> 
> Thank you TKO1 and dmusoke. I ended up using the method where I adjusted the distance settings with the null approach and I can actually say it made an audible difference. I appreciate both of your help. It feels good to know I finally have this taken care of.



You're welcome







...Enjoy your setup!


In my case, i gathered null data for several frequencies around the crossover of 80Hz. I went as low as 60Hz and high as 100Hz in 5Hz increments using a tone generator (freebie from the net). For each frequency, I found the distance value that gave the lowest null and then took the RMS value of these distances i gathered from 60Hz to 100Hz. This value was the subwoofer distance number i entered in my setup. It ended up being 33ft, even though I'm physically 13 ft and 3 ft from both my subs.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> No ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for that would defeat the whole purpose of ARC. All untreated room problems occur from 500Hz and below so that's why you see many EQ systems and bass traps target these range of frequencies to eliminate nasty resonances caused by the ratios of your room dimensions(length, width and height).
> 
> 
> But really, no need to worry about all this. Once you've EQ'd with the AS1, ARC will now see that you have a very clean bass response so it will not touch your bass curves any further. So in effect, you get what you originally wanted. To let the AS1 handle the low frequencies and ARC handle the rest.



Just read that the AS EQ1 was developed by Audyssey, "the most respected room correction system developer in the world". Just wondering what world they're referring to.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19865088
> 
> 
> Just read that the AS EQ1 was developed by Audyssey, "the most respected room correction system developer in the world". Just wondering what world they're referring to.
> 
> John



John:


For all the good that ARC does, you have to admit it has some limitations. ARC is wideband. So if you have a challenging room with many peaks and nulls, especially in the low-end, the resultant curve is a compromise between the high end and low end due to a finite amount of resources available.


The AS-EQ1 concentrates from 200Hz(?) and below so all its processing power is assigned a narrow band of frequencies to correct. This device handles multiple subs independently. ARC does not. Also the EQ1 does phase correction between subs and between subs and mains. ARC does not. In this regard, one can see how the AS-EQ1 is superior to ARC when dealing with subs.


Frankly, I don't see both systems as competitors. On the contrary, they are complimentary for those of us with multiple subs and very unfriendly rooms(think small or weird dimensioned rooms).


I'm in awe of what ARC does. There's no better product out there that acts as a broadband EQ for your system, IMO. Now, if you add in the EQ1($749) in your multiple sub setup, then I believe you've reached nirvana!


In my case, I had phase and amplitude matched my dual subs the hard way, manually using the method I pointed to in an earlier post. I have the EQ1 still unopened in its box and just been lazy(?) in not setting it up














.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> John:
> 
> 
> For all the good that ARC does, you have to admit it has some limitations. ARC is wideband. So if you have a challenging room with many peaks and nulls, especially in the low-end, the resultant curve is a compromise between the high end and low end due to a finite amount of resources available.
> 
> 
> The AS-EQ1 concentrates from 200Hz(?) and below so all its processing power is assigned a narrow band of frequencies to correct. This device handles multiple subs independently. ARC does not. Also the EQ1 does phase correction between subs and between subs and mains. ARC does not. In this regard, one can see how the AS-EQ1 is superior to ARC when dealing with subs.
> 
> 
> Frankly, I don't see both systems as competitors. On the contrary, they are complimentary for those of us with multiple subs and very unfriendly rooms(think small or weird dimensioned rooms).
> 
> 
> I'm in awe of what ARC does. There's no better product out there that acts as a broadband EQ for your system, IMO. Now, if you add in the EQ1($749) in your multiple sub setup, then I believe you've reached nirvana!
> 
> 
> In my case, I had phase and amplitude matched my dual subs the hard way, manually using the method I pointed to in an earlier post. I have the EQ1 still unopened in its box and just been lazy(?) in not setting it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



I found the comment about FIR filters to be better than IIR filters used by ARC. If that was the case, why is ARC always rated superior to Audyssey. Maybe Audyssey designers don't really know how to implement them properly where Anthem designers do.

John


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19862176
> 
> 
> is a higher number the same as more bass?



As others have said, the higher number gives you more bass. I believe the highest value that ARC will automatically select for room gain is about 4.0. Most people use that as their upper limit if, like you they have a lower value. You have to watch your charts when you play with room gain because if ARC needs more resources to implement your desired room gain, it will take them from other places in your overall solution. You may want to post your charts here as there are some pretty smart people in this group that can help you determine where there may be problems.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19867255
> 
> 
> I found the comment about FIR filters to be better than IIR filters used by ARC. If that was the case, why is ARC always rated superior to Audyssey. Maybe Audyssey designers don't really know how to implement them properly where Anthem designers do.
> 
> John



I had two dissimilar subs and the EQ1 in conjunction with ARC was the key to fantastic sound without all the work. Now that I have a couple of JL Fathoms, I took out the EQ1, but still run ARO before I run ARC. I think ARC is the best room correction system I've ever tried, but I also believe the better you have your system set up prior to running ARC, the better your results will be afterwards.


----------



## cosmos5861

I am getting a new DirecTV that has 3D. I have a 3D Plasma Panasonic VT25.


According to Directv


"3D will work with HDMI only (not analog component) equipment. Most AV receivers do not currently support the proper pass through of the HDMI data. These types of AV receivers will not work with 3D. Please check with your AV receiver manufacturer to determine if it will work with 3D.

The current HDMI cable is qualified for 3D. The HDMI cable must be connected directly between the DIRECTV receiver and the 3D TV. There is no need to get a new HDMI cable for 3D."


My question is can AVM 50 support proper pass through?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/19869597
> 
> 
> 
> my question is can avm 50 support proper pass through?



no way


----------



## cosmos5861




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19869605
> 
> 
> no way



SO the only way to solve problem is if Directv has 2 HDMI out. One can go to AVM 50 and the other to plasma for 3D. But I am sure Directv receiver has one hdmi output.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/19869959
> 
> 
> SO the only way to solve problem is if Directv has 2 HDMI out. One can go to AVM 50 and the other to plasma for 3D. But I am sure Directv receiver has one hdmi output.



You can try a HDMI *Splitter* that is what I would try if I had a 3D Display


BTW - the 6192 and 7618 are claimed to have 3D Support.


----------



## obie_fl

Or you could just run a second HDMI to your display and hook a coax or optical to the Anthem for audio.


----------



## cosmos5861




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19870035
> 
> 
> You can try a HDMI *Splitter* that is what I would try if I had a 3D Display
> 
> 
> BTW - the 6192 and 7618 are claimed to have 3D Support.



This would be perfect if it worked? Has anyone here tried these splitters?


----------



## cosmos5861




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/19870534
> 
> 
> Or you could just run a second HDMI to your display and hook a coax or optical to the Anthem for audio.



Just confirmed the directv receiver only has one HDMI output.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/19870534
> 
> 
> Or you could just run a second HDMI to your display and hook a coax or optical to the Anthem for audio.



Except you loose the high def lossless audio tracks.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU* /forum/post/19868588
> 
> 
> I had two dissimilar subs and the EQ1 in conjunction with ARC was the key to fantastic sound without all the work. Now that I have a couple of JL Fathoms, I took out the EQ1, but still run ARO before I run ARC. I think ARC is the best room correction system I've ever tried, but I also believe the better you have your system set up prior to running ARC, the better your results will be afterwards.



+1







. And that's where the EQ1 comes in for tough rooms. Its unfortunate the D2v/50v are internally designed to have one sub output that is split into 2 in a mono fashion. This maybe resolved when the D3(v) comes to light(?).


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19870567
> 
> 
> Except you loose the high def lossless audio tracks.



I didn't know DirectTV had high def audio. I'm a cable kind of guy.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/19870563
> 
> 
> Just confirmed the directv receiver only has one HDMI output.



When I said second I meant in addition to the one from the Anthem. Or are you saying the receiver doesn't have any outputs other then the one HDMI?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/19870902
> 
> 
> I didn't know DirectTV had high def audio. I'm a cable kind of guy.



No HD broadcast standard carries high def audio. All audio is the old standard lossy DD5.1 for all HD and non-HD broadcasts.


----------



## obie_fl

I was pretty sure they didn't was just trying to make my point.










Cosmos: What I'm saying is there is nothing to be gained audio or video wise by running the HDMI through the Anthem for a 3D receiver. I'm assuming the coax and/or optical on the receiver are active when using the HDMI. Likely a dangerous assumption on my part, although I know my cable box has its coaxial active with HDMI active. On the other hand you can just get an HDMI splitter like the good Dr. said. I just dislike extra boxes.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/19871145
> 
> 
> I was pretty sure they didn't was just trying to make my point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cosmos: What I'm saying is there is nothing to be gained audio or video wise by running the HDMI through the Anthem for a 3D receiver. I'm assuming the coax and/or optical on the receiver are active when using the HDMI. Likely a dangerous assumption on my part, although I know my cable box has its coaxial active with HDMI active. On the other hand you can just get an HDMI splitter like the good Dr. said. I just dislike extra boxes.



My mistake. I had Bluray on my mind.


----------



## bluemark81

My Oppo has had to go in for repairs so I am using my PS3 for my blue-ray player. I have my PS3 set to output bitstream in my settings. It is connected to my D2v with HDMI. I've noticed that my Anthem is not showing the audio as a high resolution output. Anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My Oppo has had to go in for repairs so I am using my PS3 for my blue-ray player. I have my PS3 set to output bitstream in my settings. It is connected to my D2v with HDMI. I've noticed that my Anthem is not showing the audio as a high resolution output. Anyone have any suggestions?



If it is the fat model it can't bitstream. Set the PS3 to output PCM and you'll get lossless sound.

John


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Did you reduce the Max Eq Freq from 12500 to 5000 as
> 
> recommended by Ninja12 ?
> 
> 
> You say the front speakers are mounted high on a stone wall. Is it possible to angle the front speakers to point down and slightly toe them in rather then straight ahead ?
> 
> Then repost all your charts



1. Yes.


2. Not as easy as it seems. I am having some other work done this week, so I may have the speakers toed in and down a bit.


3. Surprisingly, under earlier versions of ARC, the response of the speakers (at least on the charts) seeped to be corrected almost flat).


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/19876252
> 
> 
> 1. Yes.
> 
> 
> 2. Not as easy as it seems. I am having some other work done this week, so I may have the speakers toed in and down a bit.
> 
> 
> 3. Surprisingly, under earlier versions of ARC, the response of the speakers (at least on the charts) seeped to be corrected almost flat).



I'm thinking that that the Frt L/R speakers mounted high on the wall and pointing straight ahead will cause the high freq to pass over the listeners or the ARC microphone. High frequencies are know to beam their dispersal.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking that that the Frt L/R speakers mounted high on the wall and pointing straight ahead will cause the high freq to pass over the listeners or the ARC microphone. High frequencies are know to beam their dispersal.



Makes sense


----------



## work permit

Can someone please verify that the 50V supports 1600x1200 video output?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *work permit* /forum/post/19883828
> 
> 
> Can someone please verify that the 50V supports 1600x1200 video output?



The maximum supported resolution is 1920x1080p60. There is a Custom Resolution option but don't think it can exceed the maximum allowable. Call anthem tech support for further help. Just for fun







, try the AUTO setting and see if the unit syncs up to the source.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *work permit* /forum/post/19883828
> 
> 
> Can someone please verify that the 50V supports 1600x1200 video output?



This sounds like a computer video display why not reduce it in the computer ?

Most 1600x1200 outputs are way to small to be legible on a television screen.


----------



## p.las

hello.

i run a avm 50 on a M&K s150 setup witt two mx350 subs. i'am using the SVS a1 EQ to my subs. first i calibred my sub whit the svs and finaly use the ACR to calibred the hole system incl the subs. but will it not chead the ACR regards the roomgain, becurse it dosent see the peaks from the subs, and then will miss the correct roomgain........ore am i missing somthing here?

hope you understand.

regards Peter denmark


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/19869959
> 
> 
> SO the only way to solve problem is if Directv has 2 HDMI out. One can go to AVM 50 and the other to plasma for 3D. But I am sure Directv receiver has one hdmi output.



The new Oppo BDP93 and 95 Blu-ray players have dual HDMI. This will allow you to watch 3D through the VT series televisions and Direct TV. Direct TV has 3D channels just for the panasonic's, including an ESPN channel, movies on demand and N3D.


----------



## nahkmos

Hi all!


Is there any EDID problem between D2v and ATI Graphic Cards (5770 or others)?


I tried to connect my PCHC (ATI HD5770) by its HDMI connection to my D2v and when I want to use PowerDVD 10, it didn't propose me to choose the bitstream option for HD audio formats...


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19884882
> 
> 
> The new Oppo BDP93 and 95 Blu-ray players have dual HDMI. This will allow you to watch 3D through the VT series televisions and Direct TV. Direct TV has 3D channels just for the panasonic's, including an ESPN channel, movies on demand and N3D.



Lost me on this one. What does the Oppo have to do with 3D on DirecTV????


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/19885126
> 
> 
> Lost me on this one. What does the Oppo have to do with 3D on DirecTV????



Dual HDMI allows you to run one HDMI cable straight to the tv (required by Direct TV for 3D, and another HDMI to the D2v.


You can not run HDMI through the D2v and then to the tv for 3D programming. At least not until the HDMI 4 update comes out.


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19885467
> 
> 
> Dual HDMI allows you to run one HDMI cable straight to the tv (required by Direct TV for 3D, and another HDMI to the D2v.
> 
> 
> You can not run HDMI through the D2v and then to the tv for 3D programming. At least not until the HDMI 4 update comes out.



Or, none of the above could matter? I am still learning how to add components to get where I want to be. I would like to see sports in 3D since I have a vt series panasonic, but I want to run through the D2v for video processing.


Since Direct tv receivers only have one HDMI out, I was thinking of running through the Oppo and then out to the tv and the D2v. (which may make no sense at all). I still want the BDP 95 when it is released for the audio quality.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19885563
> 
> 
> Or, none of the above could matter? I am still learning how to add components to get where I want to be. I would like to see sports in 3D since I have a vt series panasonic, but I want to run through the D2v for video processing.
> 
> 
> Since Direct tv receivers only have one HDMI out, I was thinking of running through the Oppo and then out to the tv and the D2v. (which may make no sense at all). I still want the BDP 95 when it is released for the audio quality.



Even when the D2v gets the HDMI 1.4 ins/out 3D will be a pass through. No video processing will be done.


----------



## obie_fl

Quote:

Originally Posted by *gbhodge*
Dual HDMI allows you to run one HDMI cable straight to the tv (required by Direct TV for 3D, and another HDMI to the D2v.


You can not run HDMI through the D2v and then to the tv for 3D programming. At least not until the HDMI 4 update comes out.
I understand that but.... I thought the DirecTV receiver only had one HDMI output my question remains what does the Oppo have to do with DirecTV?


ETA: OK saw your later post. I'm on my phone so playing catch up.


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Shrike645* 
Even when the D2v gets the HDMI 1.4 ins/out 3D will be a pass through. No video processing will be done.
What was the source for this inside information and who confirmed it ?


----------



## nahkmos

Quote:

Originally Posted by *nahkmos* 
Hi all!


Is there any EDID problem between D2v and ATI Graphic Cards (5770 or others)?


I tried to connect my PCHC (ATI HD5770) by its HDMI connection to my D2v and when I want to use PowerDVD 10, it didn't propose me to choose the bitstream option for HD audio formats...
Nobody has any problem with a PCHC and his D2v?


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nahkmos* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> 
> Is there any EDID problem between D2v and ATI Graphic Cards (5770 or others)?
> 
> 
> I tried to connect my PCHC (ATI HD5770) by its HDMI connection to my D2v and when I want to use PowerDVD 10, it didn't propose me to choose the bitstream option for HD audio formats...



You will have to use pass thru when using powerdvd 10 and ATI video cards. It's essentially the same thing except your dv2 wont have the pretty blu light come on for the hd sound. It sound the same to me which is fantastic.


----------



## Ron Alcasid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joni7* /forum/post/19842385
> 
> 
> Hello, Im having a heck of a time with Appletv2 and the AVM50v. Use HDMI, upon switching from various sources, the screen flashes a red background and I cannot get the picture and sound. Even my WII is now not working (also an hdmi connection). Bluray player and SAT (directv) seems to work without issue. I only get appletv2 to work intermittently but spent over 45min this evening unplugging, rebooting appletv2 and can't get it to come on the screen without blinking red background or just simply blank screen.
> 
> 
> Are my HDMI inputs malfunctioning?



Try setting the color space for HDMI input from Auto to Studio RGB.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19886358
> 
> 
> What was the source for this inside information and who confirmed it ?



I'm sure I read it in this thread somewhere. I thought it was from Nick or John.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19884511
> 
> 
> hello.
> 
> i run a avm 50 on a M&K s150 setup witt two mx350 subs. i'am using the SVS a1 EQ to my subs. first i calibred my sub whit the svs and finaly use the ACR to calibred the hole system incl the subs. but will it not chead the ACR regards the roomgain, becurse it dosent see the peaks from the subs, and then will miss the correct roomgain........ore am i missing somthing here?
> 
> hope you understand.
> 
> regards Peter denmark



Peter:


Please post your ARC graphs and targets so that everyone can see what's going on and then many knowledgeable folks here will provide you with the help you need. I know that the EQ1 equalizes out the room gain so when used with ARC, ARC will then see a system with no gain.


But again...please post your ARC graphs and maybe your final AS-EQ1 plot.


----------



## groy67

Hello everyone,


Is there a special way to attach or post the graphs?


sorry.. I tried a few different ways.


Thanking you in advance,

Gerry


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *groy67* 
Hello everyone,


Is there a special way to attach or post the graphs?


sorry.. I tried a few different ways.


Thanking you in advance,

Gerry
When you choose to reply to a post or start a new one, you can scroll down to the "Additional Options" section and click on the "Manage Attachments" button. This will lead you to specify the location of the images you want to upload and you can go on from there.


----------



## groy67

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke* 
When you choose to reply to a post or start a new one, you can scroll down to the "Additional Options" section and click on the "Manage Attachments" button. This will lead you to specify the location of the images you want to upload and you can go on from there.
Thank you for your quick reply... still doesn't seem to work. It doesn't reconize the arc file...


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *groy67* 
Thank you for your quick reply... still doesn't seem to work. It doesn't reconize the arc file...
OK... first save the ARC file as an image file in one of the formats that AVS supports. You can do this the old fashioned way, simultaneously pressing CTRL and Print Screen and pasting it in microsoft paint or other image manipulation program. Save it as a jpeg file and then import it as described earlier.


----------



## p.las

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke* 
Peter:


Please post your ARC graphs and targets so that everyone can see what's going on and then many knowledgeable folks here will provide you with the help you need. I know that the EQ1 equalizes out the room gain so when used with ARC, ARC will then see a system with no gain.


But again...please post your ARC graphs and maybe your final AS-EQ1 plot.
thank.....i will try that.


----------



## studlygoorite

Quote:

Originally Posted by *groy67* 
Hello everyone,


Is there a special way to attach or post the graphs?


sorry.. I tried a few different ways.


Thanking you in advance,

Gerry
When your graphs are on your computer screen press "Print Screen". Open "Paint" and press "Control V"(the control key and the letter V key at the same time). The graph should now show on your paint sheet, press "File" an hit "Save As", change the file to a "J Peg" file and save it, you should be good to go. Do the same for the rest of the files. Don't forget to show your "Targets" screen also.


John


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19890640
> 
> 
> When your graphs are on your computer screen press "Print Screen". Open "Paint" and press "Control V"(the control key and the letter V key at the same time). The graph should now show on your paint sheet, press "File" an hit "Save As", change the file to a "J Peg" file and save it, you should be good to go. Do the same for the rest of the files. Don't forget to show your "Targets" screen also.
> 
> 
> John



i have the same question. i dont have "print screen" iam running windows 7.


----------



## jitenn

Is there a sound quality difference between using L/R preamp-out connections vs. LFE-out connection for a sub-woofer?


I currently use LFE-out on my Focal SW800V, but want to use L/R preamp-out instead to keep the analog signal from my turntable/phone stage as pristine as possible. Only way to do this seems to be to bypass the ADC, which in turn means no ARC or s/w LFE out, so leaves me with no choice but to wire s/w directly using L/R preamp-outs. Am guessing this would be my permanent configuration if it works out.


I would normally try this out before asking, but I do not have long enough cables to experiment. Before I plop down cable $, I thought I'd ask you experts...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19892071
> 
> 
> i have the same question. i dont have "print screen" iam running windows 7.



I have *PRINT SCREEN* in Windows 7


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/19885126
> 
> 
> Lost me on this one. What does the Oppo have to do with 3D on DirecTV????



A second follow-up on this question. The attached is from Oppo:


Dual HDMI Outputs - The BDP-93 is equipped with two HDMI output ports and offers the most versatile installation options. You do not have to upgrade your A/V receiver to a 3D model in order to enjoy 3D. One HDMI output of the BDP-93 can be connected to a 3D TV and the other can be connected to a pre-3D HDMI v1.1-v1.3 A/V receiver. For projector users, you can connect one output to a projector for home theater use and the other to a TV for casual viewing. For a multi-room installation the BDP-93 can output audio and video to two 3D or 2D TVs simultaneously.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19892071
> 
> 
> i have the same question. i dont have "print screen" iam running windows 7.



Check the top row of your keyboard on the far right.

It may say PRTSC instead of Print Screen.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19892071
> 
> 
> i have the same question. i dont have "print screen" iam running windows 7.



Print Screen is a button on your keyboard. May be labeled PrtSc or some such. Pressing the Alt Button and the Prtsc button at the same time copies the active window screen to the clipboard buffer that can then be pasted into any application such as windows paint.


----------



## work permit

Thank you both for your replies



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19883928
> 
> 
> The maximum supported resolution is 1920x1080p60. There is a Custom Resolution option but don't think it can exceed the maximum allowable. Call anthem tech support for further help. Just for fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , try the AUTO setting and see if the unit syncs up to the source.



I know the D2 can do 1600x1200. I was hoping that feature wasn't lost with the D2V/AVM50. 1600x1200 actually requires less video bandwidth then 1920x1080p, so I'm hoping it's supported through using a custom resolution.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19884291
> 
> 
> This sounds like a computer video display why not reduce it in the computer ?
> 
> Most 1600x1200 outputs are way to small to be legible on a television screen.



It's a front projector CRT. I currently use this resolution when viewing 4x3 material. My reason to use this resolution is that it reduces visbility of scan lines. It has the added benefit of allowing for a brighter image.


Thanks again


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *work permit* /forum/post/19895464
> 
> 
> Thank you both for your replies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know the D2 can do 1600x1200. I was hoping that feature wasn't lost with the D2V/AVM50. 1600x1200 actually requires less video bandwidth then 1920x1080p, so I'm hoping it's supported through using a custom resolution.
> 
> 
> 
> It's a front projector CRT. I currently use this resolution when viewing 4x3 material. My reason to use this resolution is that it reduces visbility of scan lines. It has the added benefit of allowing for a brighter image.
> 
> 
> Thanks again



The AVM50/D2 and AVM50v/D2v use the same video processor, the Gennum VXP. So whatever resolutions were supported in the AVM50 / D2 will be supported in the D2v/50v as well.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19892071
> 
> 
> i have the same question. i dont have "print screen" iam running windows 7.



Windows 7 comes with something better than Print Screen. It's called Snipping Tool and it can be found in your All Programs menu under Accessories.


----------



## buddy4711




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buddy4711* /forum/post/19781547
> 
> 
> an old story...still not yet fully solved! After more than a year and many firmware upgrades on the Xtramer the issue with the missing maximal video resolution is still unsolved.
> 
> 
> But it looks to be more a problem from the D2 side than from the Media player's side, because if Media Player and TV are connected directly, then everything works properly. Just when the D2 is in between, then the only 480p, 720p and 1080i are selectable, all other res and especially 1080p are visible but "greyed out" and not selectable.
> 
> 
> I understand, as Bob explained in a former thread to this device, that the job of a "repeater processing" of EDID is more complex than when player and TV are directly connected. But interestingly some other cheaper AV receivers do obviously this job.... So I am quite disappointed in this respect.



Maybe interesting for someone else. I have solved the problem of the video resolutions between D2 and Xtreamer by connecting in between a Gefen HDMI Detective device, which gives a preselected EDID to the Media Box (Xtreamer) and thus let me choose 540p, 720p, 1080i50Hz, 1080p50Hz.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19893621
> 
> 
> Print Screen is a button on your keyboard. May be labeled PrtSc or some such. Pressing the Alt Button and the Prtsc button at the same time copies the active window screen to the clipboard buffer that can then be pasted into any application such as windows paint.



thanks.

i' will try to upload my graphs.

if i' can handle it


----------



## p.las

i finale made it.

i'am not sure that the room gain is correct, becurse i also use a SVS a1 EQ, so ACR can't see the peaks, and this will cheat the mesured roomgain

but i must say that the bass is very presice, witt a lot of texture.

any comment will be nice.

regards Peter Denmark

edit: i'ts a mistake in the mowie setup......the front is set to 90hz by ACR, and it works great.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i finale made it.
> 
> i'am not sure that the room gain is correct, becurse i also use a SVS a1 EQ, so ACR can't see the peaks, and this will cheat the mesured roomgain
> 
> but i must say that the bass is very presice, witt a lot of texture.
> 
> any comment will be nice.
> 
> regards Peter Denmark
> 
> edit: i'ts a mistake in the mowie setup......the front is set to 90hz by ACR, and it works great.



Try setting the sub high pass in the advanced menu in ARC to Flat and recalculate. You might get a flatter response to 20Hz and below. Post the new sub chart if you try this.

John


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19899087
> 
> 
> Try setting the sub high pass in the advanced menu in ARC to Flat and recalculate. You might get a flatter response to 20Hz and below. Post the new sub chart if you try this.
> 
> John



I'will try that latter.

My bigest concern is the very low room gain , proberly becurse of the svs A1 had made the correction ón the subs before Arc had made the messurement


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19899686
> 
> 
> I'will try that latter.
> 
> My bigest concern is the very low room gain , proberly becurse of the svs A1 had made the correction ón the subs before Arc had made the messurement



As Nick said a couple pages back ARC won't boost it if doesn't think it's available. You have a dip in your fronts right about where the crossovers start and I think this may have some affect in the small room gain number also.


Have you tried ARC without the A1 on the premise that less processing might be better?


A well treated room may also show a very low room gain.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19898484
> 
> 
> i finale made it.
> 
> i'am not sure that the room gain is correct, becurse i also use a SVS a1 EQ, so ACR can't see the peaks, and this will cheat the mesured roomgain
> 
> but i must say that the bass is very presice, witt a lot of texture.
> 
> any comment will be nice.
> 
> regards Peter Denmark
> 
> edit: i'ts a mistake in the mowie setup......the front is set to 90hz by ACR, and it works great.



Charts look good. I would say check your sub to make sure you disable any crossover in your sub. If you have a frequency knob, turn it all the way up. If you do this, you will have to remeasure.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19898484
> 
> 
> i finale made it.
> 
> i'am not sure that the room gain is correct, becurse i also use a SVS a1 EQ, so ACR can't see the peaks, and this will cheat the mesured roomgain
> 
> but i must say that the bass is very presice, witt a lot of texture.
> 
> any comment will be nice.
> 
> regards Peter Denmark
> 
> edit: i'ts a mistake in the mowie setup......the front is set to 90hz by ACR, and it works great.




Looks like someone is giving Jayray a run for his money to have the best looking sub graph in this forum.







If I am reading it correctly.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19899943
> 
> 
> Looks like someone is giving Jayray a run for his money to have the best looking sub graph in this forum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I am reading it correctly.










My thinking exactly ...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19899943
> 
> 
> Looks like someone is giving Jayray a run for his money to have the best looking sub graph in this forum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I am reading it correctly.



Well here is a reminder of what mine looks like









John


----------



## Texas steve

Yep "John Boy" that about as good as it gets!!










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19900140
> 
> 
> Well here is a reminder of what mine looks like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19898484
> 
> 
> i finale made it.
> 
> i'am not sure that the room gain is correct, becurse i also use a SVS a1 EQ, so ACR can't see the peaks, and this will cheat the mesured roomgain
> 
> but i must say that the bass is very presice, witt a lot of texture.
> 
> any comment will be nice.
> 
> regards Peter Denmark
> 
> edit: i'ts a mistake in the mowie setup......the front is set to 90hz by ACR, and it works great.



Peter ...congrats on getting to post your graphs










- Now, I really don't understand why your sub high frequency response is set too low by ARC since its capable of much higher response. Assuming no crossover setting is set (doubt it as it would have shown in the measured curves), you might ttry to boost your room gain to 1.5 - 2.0, recalculate, upload and give it a listen. This should lower your mains freq response to mesh in well with the subs high frequency cutoff.


- Might try raising your high freq response from 5K to 10K. Your front mains can handle up to 15k but your rears can't. Give it a listen as well.


- Set sub highpass filter setting to flat as has been already mentioned.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19900140
> 
> 
> Well here is a reminder of what mine looks like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Heck...that is downright insane!!! Do you use the AS-EQ1 as well?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19900247
> 
> 
> Heck...that is downright insane!!! Do you use the AS-EQ1 as well?



I did use PBK and ARC. Below are the two diff curves, ARC alone and with PBK for people to compare. The difference wasn't very noticeable using PBK and ARC but I left it using both. What you do notice is the change in the measured curve after PBK.

John


----------



## studlygoorite

I am still trying to get the best placement and sound from my subs, I just read up on the Velodyne SMS-1, would anyone recommend this baby or maybe something else that can help?


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19900673
> 
> 
> I am still trying to get the best placement and sound from my subs, I just read up on the Velodyne SMS-1, would anyone recommend this baby or maybe something else that can help?



Hi,


to be honest you don't need it with ARC and Quick Measure. I had one, and it worked fantastic for finding the best location for the sub and for equalizing nasty peaks. But ARC does the same thing and is one less thing to have in the signal processing.


Hope this helps.


Cheers.


Tony


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/19892829
> 
> 
> A second follow-up on this question. The attached is from Oppo:
> 
> 
> Dual HDMI Outputs - The BDP-93 is equipped with two HDMI output ports and offers the most versatile installation options. You do not have to upgrade your A/V receiver to a 3D model in order to enjoy 3D. One HDMI output of the BDP-93 can be connected to a 3D TV and the other can be connected to a pre-3D HDMI v1.1-v1.3 A/V receiver. For projector users, you can connect one output to a projector for home theater use and the other to a TV for casual viewing. For a multi-room installation the BDP-93 can output audio and video to two 3D or 2D TVs simultaneously.



I'm still not sure how the Oppo with two HDMI outputs is related to the DirecTV 3D receiver. Reading back through the thread are you trying to say you are going to run the DirecTV receiver through the Oppo? If so I think you are mistaken in the Oppo's capability.


----------



## p.las

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Shrike645* 
As Nick said a couple pages back ARC won't boost it if doesn't think it's available. You have a dip in your fronts right about where the crossovers start and I think this may have some affect in the small room gain number also.


Have you tried ARC without the A1 on the premise that less processing might be better?


A well treated room may also show a very low room gain.
i have run the svs a1 first. my room is not treaded.


here is a old picture of my living room. the closest corner from the subs are about 4 meters. i had tryet to raise the room gain to 1.0xxxx and i feel the sound to be more warm, but still very open.

maby i shout try to run ACR whitout SVS a1, to see what room gain it come up with.


edit:

there is no filter on the subs. the processor do all of the stuff


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19900237
> 
> 
> Now, I really don't understand why your sub high frequency response is set too low by ARC since its capable of much higher response. Assuming no crossover setting is set (doubt it as it would have shown in the measured curves), you might ttry to boost your room gain to 1.5 - 2.0, recalculate, upload and give it a listen. This should lower your mains freq response to mesh in well with the subs high frequency cutoff.



If a sub measures fine anechoically and drastically differently in-room even after correction, a better sub position ought to be the first consideration. This is the closest thing to a miracle cure.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19898484
> 
> 
> i finale made it.
> 
> i'am not sure that the room gain is correct, becurse i also use a SVS a1 EQ, so ACR can't see the peaks, and this will cheat the mesured roomgain
> 
> but i must say that the bass is very presice, witt a lot of texture.
> 
> any comment will be nice.
> 
> regards Peter Denmark
> 
> edit: i'ts a mistake in the mowie setup......the front is set to 90hz by ACR, and it works great.



If you haven't, try ARC without the sub's eq.


All: If something doesn't appear to make sense, sent your .arc file to tech support (not screenshots). We can view each position independently - this removes much guesswork.


----------



## xtrips

Hello


This is something I didn't expect. As a long time user (D2 and now D2v) I thought I was above these kind of problems.

Well, I just bought a new laptop, A Toshiba running Win7 x64.

And tried the new ARC for the first time. While uploading the settings it either crashes with a BSOD or it stays stuck in the middle of the process.

Leaving no other choice than doing a hard reset to the D2v (power unplug, Factory defaults, Load settings).

My Win7 is fine and all my devices are ok.

My USB to COM is using the latest driver from Prolific.

I am set at 115000 speed, 8bit, 2 bit stop, no flow control.

The same as it ever was with my previous laptop, a Lenovo.

While I had these problems yesterday, I tried to upload the same ARC measurement with the Lenovo and it went fine.

The Toshiba still got stuck.

How can I debug this probem?


Thanks


----------



## p.las

now witt room gain set to 1,5xxx and sub til flat.

but there is still a lots of rool off from the subs.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19903935
> 
> 
> now witt room gain set to 1,5xxx and sub til flat.
> 
> but there is still a lots of rool off from the subs.



They don't look bad.


Did you force room gain to 1.5xxx? I see you got 2 with your music config.


As Nick suggested I'd still try ARC alone without the sub EQ.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19904150
> 
> 
> They don't look bad.
> 
> 
> Did you force room gain to 1.5xxx? I see you got 2 with your music config.
> 
> 
> As Nick suggested I'd still try ARC alone without the sub EQ.



I Will try to run arc wittout the svs A1 . but i Think its Strange why the roll off from the sub, happens so ealy/50hz.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19904150
> 
> 
> They don't look bad.
> 
> 
> Did you force room gain to 1.5xxx? I see you got 2 with your music config.
> 
> 
> As Nick suggested I'd still try ARC alone without the sub EQ.



Yes, i dit forse the roomgain to 1,5 . The calculated room gain was about 0,0xxxxx.

The Sound from the system is very dynamic and tight.




A side note.......does everybody use re-EQ ore thx cinema?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19905232
> 
> 
> Yes, i dit forse the roomgain to 1,5 . The calculated room gain was about 0,0xxxxx.
> 
> The Sound from the system is very dynamic and tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A side note.......does everybody use re-EQ ore thx cinema?



I don't use either with ARC.


You can always switch to your music config to see what a little more room gain (2db) sounds like.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19905294
> 
> 
> I don't use either with ARC.
> 
> 
> You can always switch to your music config to see what a little more room gain (2db) sounds like.



I have tryet that, and for the most of the time i prefer 1,0xxxx for mowie and 2,0xxxxx for musik. But i had always (have it four 14 days







) used re-EQ . And i Think that a higher room gain makes the higher frekvenz become softer. So maby i just have to make som more experience


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19903935
> 
> 
> now witt room gain set to 1,5xxx and sub til flat.
> 
> but there is still a lots of rool off from the subs.



Try changing the cutoff to 120 from 80 and see if this elevates the correction in the 100 Hz range. The present correction seems to lack the punch in that frequency and the only thing I can see is the 80 Hz setting. Did you change to 80 or did ARC set that? It is low for the kind of measurment you got.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19903935
> 
> 
> now witt room gain set to 1,5xxx and sub til flat.
> 
> but there is still a lots of rool off from the subs.



I just lowered my cutoff from 120 to 80 with my file and it looks like yours. So definitely raise the cutoff to 120 Hz. and post your chart again. I'll be surprised if it doesn't do the same thing to yours. The pic is below. Notice how my curve is about 8-10 dB lower at 100 Hz. This is what you want to fix. The one on the right is what I am using now and they sound quite different I can assure you.

John


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/19903826
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> This is something I didn't expect. As a long time user (D2 and now D2v) I thought I was above these kind of problems.
> 
> Well, I just bought a new laptop, A Toshiba running Win7 x64.
> 
> And tried the new ARC for the first time. While uploading the settings it either crashes with a BSOD or it stays stuck in the middle of the process.
> 
> Leaving no other choice than doing a hard reset to the D2v (power unplug, Factory defaults, Load settings).
> 
> My Win7 is fine and all my devices are ok.
> 
> My USB to COM is using the latest driver from Prolific.
> 
> I am set at 115000 speed, 8bit, 2 bit stop, no flow control.
> 
> The same as it ever was with my previous laptop, a Lenovo.
> 
> While I had these problems yesterday, I tried to upload the same ARC measurement with the Lenovo and it went fine.
> 
> The Toshiba still got stuck.
> 
> How can I debug this probem?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Classic problem. Latest driver doesn't necessarily mean up-to-date driver.


Coincidentally (and how!) I nearly fell out of my chair when someone showed this to me earlier today:

http://www.hometechtell.com/hometech...asier-for-ant/


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19906575
> 
> 
> Classic problem. Latest driver doesn't necessarily mean up-to-date driver.
> 
> 
> Coincidentally (and how!) I nearly fell out of my chair when someone showed this to me earlier today:
> 
> http://www.hometechtell.com/hometech...asier-for-ant/


*NICK* - Anthem should put one in the BOX with the software.


I'm sure you might have heard that one before.


Even if you had to increase the price a bit - new owners would love it.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/19907007
> 
> *NICK* - Anthem should put one in the BOX with the software.
> 
> 
> I'm sure you might have heard that one before.
> 
> 
> Even if you had to increase the price a bit - new owners would love it.



Done, as of last month. Correct. Eventually. Also available separately from [email protected] . $29 (USD/CAD) plus shipping, and tax for lucky Canadians. Also available from Anthem dealers.


----------



## p.las

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jayray* 
I just lowered my cutoff from 120 to 80 with my file and it looks like yours. So definitly raise the cutoff to 120 Hz. and post your chart again. I'll be surprised if it doesn't do the same thing to yours. The pic is below. Notice how my curve is about 8-10 dB lower at 100 Hz. This is what you want to fix. The one on the right is what I am using now and they sound quite different I can assure you.

John
yes...i'can see what you meen. last night i try to set the roomgain on 2,0xxxx and a flat respons, like the last graph i uploaded, and i think there is too much bass. I think it's all about to find the room gain for liking and then set the cutt off as you deskrived, so there is no dip.


will it still use the manuel croos over setting. mine is set to thx 80 on all the speakers. what i meen is......if i in ARC set a 120hz cutoff like said, will it still use the 80hz sub settings in the bass magnetment?


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19906575
> 
> 
> Classic problem. Latest driver doesn't necessarily mean up-to-date driver.
> 
> 
> Coincidentally (and how!) I nearly fell out of my chair when someone showed this to me earlier today:
> 
> http://www.hometechtell.com/hometech...asier-for-ant/



I also have three of them..lol.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19907662
> 
> 
> Done, as of last month. Correct. Eventually. Also available separately from [email protected] . $29 (USD/CAD) plus shipping, and tax for lucky Canadians. Also available from Anthem dealers.



THREE MORE CHEERS for Anthem Support


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19908419
> 
> 
> yes...i'can see what you meen. last night i try to set the roomgain on 2,0xxxx and a flat respons, like the last graph i uploaded, and i think there is too much bass. I think it's all about to find the room gain for liking and then set the cutt off as you deskrived, so there is no dip.
> 
> 
> will it still use the manuel croos over setting. mine is set to thx 80 on all the speakers. what i meen is......if i in ARC set a 120hz cutoff like said, will it still use the 80hz sub settings in the bass magnetment?



Are you saying you have changed all the crossovers from what ARC calculates and downloads and set them all to 80 manually?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19908419
> 
> 
> yes...i'can see what you meen. last night i try to set the roomgain on 2,0xxxx and a flat respons, like the last graph i uploaded, and i think there is too much bass. I think it's all about to find the room gain for liking and then set the cutt off as you deskrived, so there is no dip.
> 
> 
> will it still use the manuel croos over setting. mine is set to thx 80 on all the speakers. what i meen is......if i in ARC set a 120hz cutoff like said, will it still use the 80hz sub settings in the bass magnetment?



Don't set the crossovers to anything, let ARC do that. Then look at the sub output and if it still looks the way it does now, then set the subcutoff to 120 Hz and recalculate. Then post this chart for us to see. Trust ARC's settings, most peopls settle for what ARC has done, not go changing things since most of us can't see what ARC is doing behing the scenes. What we can say is that it ususally sounds amazing.

John


----------



## buckley44

can someone please look at my charts and give me some suggestions, thank you

 

1-28-11 arc snapshots.doc 337k . file


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19911095
> 
> 
> can someone please look at my charts and give me some suggestions, thank you



I'd suggest that you sit back and enjoy. Looks good.


----------



## buckley44

after my charts above i lowered my sub to 60hz myself after running arc,the chart looks better,but should i do this,also after doing a quick measure does it do anything to my settings in the d2,do i have to reload user settings again.

 

1-28-11 snapshot #2 sub.doc 50k . file


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19911191
> 
> 
> after my charts above i lowered my sub to 60hz myself after running arc,the chart looks better,but should i do this,also after doing a quick measure does it do anything to my settings in the d2,do i have to reload user settings again.



If you've used quick measure I think you are safer to reload ARC. User settings do not save all of ARC settings but I don't know for sure if what quick measure zero's is all saved in user settings.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> If you've used quick measure I think you are safer to reload ARC. User settings do not save all of ARC settings but I don't know for sure if what quick measure zero's is all saved in user settings.



An upload is required.

John


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19911185
> 
> 
> I'd suggest that you sit back and enjoy. Looks good.



is there anything i should try to do with the sub? that dip is what concerns me.


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19911262
> 
> 
> An upload is required.
> 
> John



jay what do you think of the charts i posted,im still having a hard time getting rid of that dip with my servo sub


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> jay what do you think of the charts i posted,im still having a hard time getting rid of that dip with my servo sub



I'm using my iTouch which doesn't allow me to view the charts. Will try later.

John


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19911349
> 
> 
> I'm using my iTouch which doesn't allow me to view the charts. Will try later.
> 
> John



thanks jay,


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19911339
> 
> 
> jay what do you think of the charts i posted,im still having a hard time getting rid of that dip with my servo sub



It's only a 1db dip. I don't think it's much to be worried about.


----------



## thestewman

Where has Bob P disappeared to ?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19910877
> 
> 
> Don't set the crossovers to anything, let ARC do that. Then look at the sub output and if it still looks the way it does now, then set the subcutoff to 120 Hz and recalculate. Then post this chart for us to see. Trust ARC's settings, most peopls settle for what ARC has done, not go changing things since most of us can't see what ARC is doing behing the scenes. What we can say is that it ususally sounds amazing.
> 
> John



forgive my bad english









i have set the crossover manuel in the anthem s bass mangetment to 80hz on all speakers. this was before i was running ARC. after runing the ACR, it sets the crossovers to the figure in the uploaded graphs . will these figure overrule the settings in the manuel setup in the anthem.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19911191
> 
> 
> after my charts above i lowered my sub to 60hz myself after running arc,the chart looks better,but should i do this,also after doing a quick measure does it do anything to my settings in the d2,do i have to reload user settings again.



The first graph looks better than the second one. Your corrected curve is flatter from 100 to 20 Hz. and this is what you want. The first graph shows a drop off from 50 Hz. It might look a little smoother but it is lacking in the punch freqs. Try the first file and hear how tight the LFE is now compared to the second one. There should be a big diff.

John


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19911702
> 
> 
> forgive my bad english
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have set the crossover manuel in the anthem s bass mangetment to 80hz on all speakers. this was before i was running ARC. after runing the ACR, it sets the crossovers to the figure in the uploaded graphs . will these figure overrule the settings in the manuel setup in the anthem.



Yes ARC will set the crossovers in bass management to the values it calculates.


----------



## buckley44

jay, this is the arc im using currently with my sub in the back of the room,the other charts are one's i took today but did not upload yet,the sub was in the front of the room inbetween the speakers which looks crowded up there, what do you think of this chart.

 

old snapshot.doc 50.5k . file


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19911869
> 
> 
> jay, this is the arc im using currently with my sub in the back of the room,the other charts are one's i took today but did not upload yet,the sub was in the front of the room inbetween the speakers which looks crowded up there, what do you think of this chart.



The first one although in a crowed area gives the best response. This one is around 8-10 dB below at 100 Hz and starts to roll off at 60 Hz. This is losing a good deal of the punchy LFE you want in movies which the servo can deliver as you see in the crowded position.

John


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19911955
> 
> 
> The first one although in a crowed area gives the best response. This one is around 8-10 dB below at 100 Hz and starts to roll off at 60 Hz. This is losing a good deal of the punchy LFE you want in movies which the servo can deliver as you see in the crowded position.
> 
> John



So i guess i have to sacrifice look for pleasure, you think the new arc measurement will give me alot more LFE than the one im currently using? i don't have to many more options on were i can place it,i have the sub set to inverted when its behind the couch,can i switch it back without messing up arc if i put it in the front of the room, i know i can set the distance without upsetting anything,I know it's alot of questions, thanks for the help.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> So i guess i have to sacrifice look for pleasure, you think the new arc measurement will give me alot more LFE than the one im currently using? i don't have to many more options on were i can place it,i have the sub set to inverted when its behind the couch,can i switch it back without messing up arc if i put it in the front of the room, i know i can set the distance without upsetting anything,I know it's alot of questions, thanks for the help.



Try it in the crowded area and then listen to it. If it sounds better then use it. If no, nothing to lose. I think you will hear a diff, I did.

John


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19911955
> 
> 
> The first one although in a crowed area gives the best response. This one is around 8-10 dB below at 100 Hz and starts to roll off at 60 Hz. This is losing a good deal of the punchy LFE you want in movies which the servo can deliver as you see in the crowded position.
> 
> John



jay why do you think im losing the 10db when it's in the front of the room, do i need to use my spl meter again and set it for 75db because its in the front of the room and then run arc. im wondering why my starts at 65db and when i look at your chart it's 75db


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19911669
> 
> 
> Where has Bob P disappeared to ?



It appears he abandoned Anthem in favor of Oppo????? I always thought he worked for Anthem, perhaps he now works for Oppo, as he continues to post on the Oppo threads. Who knows


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Oppo is releasing updates that need a lot of attention. Nothing has changed recently on the D2v. I'm following the thread, but the other experienced posters seem to have things well in hand.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> It appears he abandoned Anthem in favor of Oppo????? I always thought he worked for Anthem, perhaps he now works for Oppo, as he continues to post on the Oppo threads. Who knows



Nick works for Anthem, not Bob









John


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19906575
> 
> 
> Classic problem. Latest driver doesn't necessarily mean up-to-date driver.
> 
> 
> Coincidentally (and how!) I nearly fell out of my chair when someone showed this to me earlier today:
> 
> http://www.hometechtell.com/hometech...asier-for-ant/



Hi Nick,


Coincidentally this week end I am having an MRX500 for testing, along with my D2v. While uploading ARC measurements to the MRX it also crashed on BSOD.

I eventually solved the problem and I thought you should know the solution.

As I said, my USBtoCOM cable always worked with my D2v and my previous Lenovo laptop. So of course i was suspecting the Toshiba.

This Toshiba is loaded with features and some of them were dubious (I am a network engineer, I have a knack for these things). So I disabled the CPU overclocking, and the Virtualization CPU enhancement.

After that I was able to upload my measurements fine.

Later i will be posting some graphs that compare ARC measurements between the D2v and the MRX500 in the same room, same speakers, same power amps.

That should be interesting.


----------



## p.las

Regarding crossover. The correct crossover, isent that where the

- 6 dB curts are?


----------



## buckley44

can anyone give me any advice as to why after running arc my charts have my db set so low, before i ran arc i followed the instructions as far as using my spl meter and 0 out the left speaker and raise noise level to 75db and changed my sub to 75db using it's volume control.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19915059
> 
> 
> can anyone give me any advice as to why after running arc my charts have my db set so low, before i ran arc i followed the instructions as far as using my spl meter and 0 out the left speaker and raise noise level to 75db and changed my sub to 75db using it's volume control.



I thought we had come to the consensus that there is a charting error and we haven't yet found the circumstances where this occurs on some systems / computers.


If it still sounds the same volume and you aren't setting the main volume a lot higher than you used to listen to things just ignore it.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19915059
> 
> 
> can anyone give me any advice as to why after running arc my charts have my db set so low, before i ran arc i followed the instructions as far as using my spl meter and 0 out the left speaker and raise noise level to 75db and changed my sub to 75db using it's volume control.



I am in the same boat but I have read here several places that it is nothing to worry about, are you using Vista?


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19915114
> 
> 
> I am in the same boat but I have read here several places that it is nothing to worry about, are you using Vista?



yes i am, my charts are coming in at 60db even though i set it to 75db i dont get it i'll try uploading and see if the volume level changes. did you raise your db up after seeing your charts?


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19915187
> 
> 
> yes i am, my charts are coming in at 60db even though i set it to 75db i dont get it i'll try uploading and see if the volume level changes. did you raise your db up after seeing your charts?



i just uploaded and i have to turn the volume up more than before.


----------



## xtrips

You should visit this link if this is of any use to you


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Quote:

Originally Posted by *xtrips* 
This Toshiba is loaded with features and some of them were dubious (I am a network engineer, I have a knack for these things). So I disabled the CPU overclocking, and the Virtualization CPU enhancement.

After that I was able to upload my measurements fine.
That's a new one! Thanks, good info. Are those features on by default?


----------



## AVfile

Quote:

Originally Posted by *thestewman* 
This sounds like a computer video display why not reduce it in the computer ?

Most 1600x1200 outputs are way to small to be legible on a television screen.
He said 1600x1200 video OUTPUT (probably driving a CRT projector like me) which is regardless of the source input. I was actually planning to run my Barco at 1600x900 (because 1080p is too much for it) and the glossy brochures for the 50V said any resolution could be done.


Now I find out from ANTHEM Tech support that the LiveVideoSettingsEditor software is currently broken and doesn't work at all on the 50V. So regardless if the hardware can support it there is no software or firmware that can set up the custom resolutions. Apparently engineering is too busy working on the MRX software and we will be waiting for a while.


I consider this to be a deficiency in the current product and plan to bring this to ANTHEM management. It would help if other customers pressed this issue too. There are many other uses for the software which I haven't even got into yet.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Quote:

Originally Posted by *netroamer* 
I just took delivery, Tuesday, of a new D2v S/N 145278 and there was no Keyspan adapter enclosed. Granted it was a replacement for a defective D2v, but it had all the appearances of a new unit.
Besides my last post it's an unannounced soft launch so to clarify adapters were added to new production recently but as for how much time it takes for a new unit to go from production floor to the factory's warehouse then to US customs and to our customs broker's warehouse in Buffalo who keeps stock, and from there to your dealer, which is normally via ground... I don't have a very good idea.


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19913666
> 
> 
> Nick works for Anthem, not Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



John, I knew Nick worked for Anthem but just missed Bob's know all posts, if he isn't getting paid by Anthem or Oppo he deserves to be. There is no one on the AVS that is equal to him or his knowledge.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> John, I knew Nick worked for Anthem but just missed Bob's know all posts, if he isn't getting paid by Anthem or Oppo he deserves to be. There is no one on the AVS that is equal to him or his knowledge.



You definitely have my vote on that one!!!

John


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19916798
> 
> 
> you definitely have my vote on that one!!!
> 
> John



+2!!!


----------



## cargen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19916798
> 
> 
> you definitely have my vote on that one!!!
> 
> John



+3


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19916798
> 
> 
> You definitely have my vote on that one!!!
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Summit HDTV* /forum/post/19917474
> 
> 
> +2!!!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cargen* /forum/post/19919359
> 
> 
> +3



I guess Bob has decided to take a break and see how well his training has paid off to the other thousands that he has always given advice to. I think we will still be in good hands until Bob decides to return.


----------



## my2cents

Does anyone know when the final version of firmware 1.47f will be released for the D2? I haven't seen it mentioned here for a while, and I'd like to be able to take advantage of the HDMI handshake improvements in final version.


Also, I notice that a password is now required to access downloads in the D1/D2 archive section on the Anthem Statement website. What's up with that?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/19922321
> 
> 
> Does anyone know when the final version of firmware 1.47f will be released for the D2? I haven't seen it mentioned here for a while, and I'd like to be able to take advantage of the HDMI handshake improvements in final version.
> 
> 
> Also, I notice that a password is now required to access downloads in the D1/D2 archive section on the Anthem Statement website. What's up with that?



If your D2 has the correct transformer or video card I would not hesitate to use firmware 1.47f. i have been using it since its original release and it works excellent.

I emailed Customer Support to ask about the new password protected archives.

It does seem silly.


----------



## Bob Anderson

The whole Anthem line missed out on the latest Sterophile Buyers Guide? Wonder who missed the boat on that one?


Just picked up the latest, (2011) Sterophile Buyers Guide, ( www.stereophile.com ), and not one listing for Anthem in the Pre/Pro or Amps.


This is really a bad miss one would think?


Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/19915187
> 
> 
> yes i am, my charts are coming in at 60db even though i set it to 75db i dont get it i'll try uploading and see if the volume level changes. did you raise your db up after seeing your charts?





I didn't touch anything and all sounds fine.


----------



## Bob Anderson

I posted the observation of the ommission to the Stereophile web site forum and got the following response back?


Posted: January 31, 2011 - 11:01am


bobanderson wrote:

Picked up my 2011 Stereophile Buyers Guide and as I leafed through, noticed that my beloved Anthem D2v Pre-amp,($8,995 list), and Anthem P5 amp ($5,595), were not listed and in fact, none of the latest new releases from Anthem in the Integrated section are listed????


thanks for the compliments bob


regarding anthem, the BG is collected in the following manner: Manufacturers are sent spreadsheets to complete/update their product lineup (their lineup is updated if the spreadsheet has been completed in the past). *Anthem did send me their completed spreadsheet, but it did not include the products you list above.*


I believe the D2V and P5 represent some of the finest examples of their respective audio sections and am so surprised at the ommission from it seems, Anthem.


I can only assume this is a simple mistake and not a product marketing notification of direction for Anthem?

















Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* 
The whole Anthem line missed out on the latest Sterophile Buyers Guide? Wonder who missed the boat on that one?


Just picked up the latest, (2011) Sterophile Buyers Guide, ( www.stereophile.com ), and not one listing for Anthem in the Pre/Pro or Amps.


This is really a bad miss one would think?


Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* 
I can only assume this is a simple mistake and not a product marketing notification of direction for Anthem?















If the 2-channel models are listed then we did exactly what was asked, i.e. to not include multichannel equipment.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Quote:

Originally Posted by *AVfile* 
He said 1600x1200 video OUTPUT (probably driving a CRT projector like me) which is regardless of the source input. I was actually planning to run my Barco at 1600x900 (because 1080p is too much for it) and the glossy brochures for the 50V said any resolution could be done.


Now I find out from ANTHEM Tech support that the LiveVideoSettingsEditor software is currently broken and doesn't work at all on the 50V. So regardless if the hardware can support it there is no software or firmware that can set up the custom resolutions. Apparently engineering is too busy working on the MRX software and we will be waiting for a while.


I consider this to be a deficiency in the current product and plan to bring this to ANTHEM management. It would help if other customers pressed this issue too. There are many other uses for the software which I haven't even got into yet.
No need to make things complicated. All you have to do is send an e-mail to tech support stating in simplest terms what you're trying to accomplish. LVSE development simply didn't keep up with adding two more video output configurations in menu, a much more popular request. This does not mean custom resolutions can no longer be uploaded, nor is LVSE the only means (it's just a GUI for serial commands). Regardless of how 1600x900 gets loaded, someone has to send us the projector's timing chart such that all the info that would be loaded in the custom resolution section of "normal" LVSE is known.


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *my2cents* 
Does anyone know when the final version of firmware 1.47f will be released for the D2? I haven't seen it mentioned here for a while, and I'd like to be able to take advantage of the HDMI handshake improvements in final version.


Also, I notice that a password is now required to access downloads in the D1/D2 archive section on the Anthem Statement website. What's up with that?
The password request was a web site problem that has been fixed.


From Anthem C/S


Good afternoon ,


Please check the website once again.


We were having technical difficulties with the website.

http://archive.anthemav.com/NewSitev...ntProduct.html


----------



## Bob Anderson

Thanks Nick for the fast response.


I am sorry to drag this out but....in looking at what other pre/pros were listed, and sensitized to the theory that this is a Stereophile listing, I am willing to stack my D2v up against 90% of the competitors products and bet the result would blow most of them away though I respect Anthem for taking their position for what-ever reason.


To note: Your Digital player was not represented, no Pre/pro, though yes, all your 2 - channel amps were there, as well as your integrated 225 amp. In all catagories, your family of products should have been submitted in my humble opinion.


Just a little surprised as your competitors didn't seem to shackle themselves to such a purist submission.


This might be simply pride speaking, so again, my apologies!


Cheers


Bob



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19924942
> 
> 
> If the 2-channel models are listed then we did exactly what was asked, i.e. to not include multichannel equipment.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Anderson* /forum/post/19925847
> 
> 
> I am sorry to drag this out but....in looking at what other pre/pros were listed, and sensitized to the theory that this is a Stereophile listing, I am willing to stack my D2v up against 90% of the competitors products and bet the result would blow most of them away though I respect Anthem for taking their position for what-ever reason.



No need for apologies because I wasn't in the least upset... well, until now. You mean you wouldn't stack a D2v against 100% of the competition as I would? Really, I've always been up for a shootout regardless of price.


When the BG sheet came to me to fill out, it only had blanks for 2-channel equipment - there was nothing else to decide.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> No need for apologies because I wasn't in the least upset... well, until now. You mean you wouldn't stack a D2v against 100% of the competition as I would? Really, I've always been up for a shootout regardless of price.
> 
> 
> When the BG sheet came to me to fill out, it only had blanks for 2-channel equipment - there was nothing else to decide.



Bring it on!!!

John


----------



## Bob Anderson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19926622
> 
> 
> No need for apologies because I wasn't in the least upset... well, until now. You mean you wouldn't stack a D2v against 100% of the competition as I would? Really, I've always been up for a shootout regardless of price.



Geesh Nick, you know us Canadians, we're so humble that though we of course mean 100%, we only state 90% to allow for those that think they are superior to fall into our trap










signed: Humble, but shamelessly sneaky!


----------



## cecaa850

I've had my D2 maybe 3 years or so with narry a hickup. This evening I turned it on and I don't have a video output from any source selected. It won't even display the Anthem menu. If I go to my the menu on my plasma, it displays fine. I've removed and re-installed the HDMI cable at the display and at the D2. Is there a troubleshooting tree for this type issue anywhere?

Thanks.


----------



## obie_fl

Cecaa - Please don't hit me for stating the obvious but are you sure the display didn't accidentally get switched to another input? The only other thing I can think of off the top my head would be to turn off the Anthem and pull the power cord for a few minutes and then plug it back in. Can you get audio from any of your sources?


ETA: The other standard troubleshooting is reseating the video card in the Anthem but you probably want to call Anthem if you are not comfortable opening your unit.


----------



## cecaa850

No problem, I've missed the obvious in the past. I used the Anthem remote and couldn't even get the on screen display. I triple checked my display input settings. I couldn't get a picture from any player or cable box.


Here's the wierd part. This morning, before I left for work I tried it one more time. Everything is now working as it should. I didn't change anything. Could this be a symptom of a video board starting to go bad? Just my luck it would act up right before the Super Bowl and has been working flawlessly for over 3 years.


Edit: audio was fine when video was out.


----------



## FredericG

Hello,


I plan to change my Yamaha Z11 used as processor with a Sherbourn power amplifier 7/200 exclusively for home theater.


My current choice for a processor is limited to Anthem D2V or AVM 50V.


However, I have not been in a position to compare these two processor with the Yamaha Z11.


Then I do not know if I should choose the D2V or the AVM 50V to benefit from a significant improvement of the audio restitution when playing BR and Dvds. (I will not use the processor for HIFI since I have a dedicated system)


What would be your comments and recommendations ?


Kind regards


Frederic


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FredericG* /forum/post/19934839
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I plan to change my Yamaha Z11 used as processor with a Sherbourn power amplifier 7/200 exclusively for home theater.
> 
> 
> My current choice for a processor is limited to Anthem D2V or AVM 50V.
> 
> 
> However, I have not been in a position to compare these two processor with the Yamaha Z11.
> 
> 
> Then I do not know if I should choose the D2V or the AVM 50V to benefit from a significant improvement of the audio restitution when playing BR and Dvds. (I will not use the processor for HIFI since I have a dedicated system)
> 
> 
> What would be your comments and recommendations ?
> 
> 
> Kind regards
> 
> 
> Frederic



I owned the 50v for a year but switched to the D2v about 3 weeks ago. No contest, I preferred the D2v! Sound is superb! Analog Re-digitization is completely transparent. ARC is the bomb!


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19925208
> 
> 
> The password request was a web site problem that has been fixed.
> 
> 
> From Anthem C/S
> 
> 
> Good afternoon ,
> 
> 
> Please check the website once again.
> 
> 
> We were having technical difficulties with the website.
> 
> http://archive.anthemav.com/NewSitev...ntProduct.html



Yep, got the same thing back from customer service. Also was told that they're still working on finalizing the 1.47f firmware, but that there are many issues yet remaining to correct. No prediction on when it would finally be released.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/19935123
> 
> 
> Yep, got the same thing back from customer service. Also was told that they're still working on finalizing the 1.47f firmware, but that there are many issues yet remaining to correct. No prediction on when it would finally be released.



I wonder what those issues could be ?

I have found no issues since changing to 1.47f.


----------



## slots1

Please comment on my latest run with the new D2v and Seaton Submersive HP with sub balanced separately.

Bob if you could.

Thanks

Gerry


----------



## ninja12

Quote:

Originally Posted by *slots1* 
Please comment on my latest run with the new D2v and Seaton Submersive HP with sub balanced separately.

Bob if you could.

Thanks

Gerry
Hi Gerry. Obviously, I'm not Bob; but, I can give you some advice. Overall, your charts look pretty good. I would suggest two things. 1. If your fronts are near a wall, you should try to move them out away from the wall if you can about 2' to start. 2. Your sub looks really good from 20 Hz to 50 Hz; but, after 50 Hz, you have a 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. I would suggest you try playing around with sub positioning to see if you can correct or mostly correct the 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. However, keep a sharp eye on 20 Hz to 50 Hz to make sure you don't negatively impact 20 Hz to 50 Hz. Other than that, you should enjoy what you hear. Also, you can give what you have a now a listen first so that you will have a reference, and then begin to make the adjustments if you feel that you need to. After listening to what you have now, you just might enjoy it and decide to stick with it. BTW, out of my two suggestions, I would start with the sub first. I think that needs more attention than your fronts. Also, make sure you disable any crossovers or Low Pass Filters/High Pass Filters in your sub.


Good luck and let us know how things turn out. BTW, I believe Bob is still monitoring this thread. So, I'm sure he will chime in if he feels you are not being lead correctly.


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *slots1*
Please comment on my latest run with the new D2v and Seaton Submersive HP with sub balanced separately.

Bob if you could.

Thanks

Gerry
I would agree with ninja12 but I guarantee if you fix the 50-100Hz, you will hear a difference.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks using the Oppo BDP-83 with the D2v or AVM 50v: Oppo just released new Public Beta firmware for the 83 which, in general, is quite good. Well worth a try.


However there is a specific problem of single speaker audio dropouts that can occur when using HDMI LPCM output of 7.1 TrueHD tracks -- just that one combo is affected. The cause is being investigated, but it is tricky because it only seems to show up on the Anthems. Use HDMI Bitstream from the 83 as a workaround when playing 7.1 TrueHD tracks.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Hi Gerry. Obviously, I'm not Bob; but, I can give you some advice. Overall, your charts look pretty good. I would suggest two things. 1. If your fronts are near a wall, you should try to move them out away from the wall if you can about 2' to start. 2. Your sub looks really good from 20 Hz to 50 Hz; but, after 50 Hz, you have a 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. I would suggest you try playing around with sub positioning to see if you can correct or mostly correct the 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. However, keep a sharp eye on 20 Hz to 50 Hz to make sure you don't negatively impact 20 Hz to 50 Hz. Other than that, you should enjoy what you hear. Also, you can give what you have a now a listen first so that you will have a reference, and then begin to make the adjustments if you feel that you need to. After listening to what you have now, you just might enjoy it and decide to stick with it. BTW, out of my two suggestions, I would start with the sub first. I think that needs more attention than your fronts. Also, make sure you disable any crossovers or Low Pass Filters/High Pass Filters in your sub.


I would agree with ninja12 but I guarantee if you fix the 50-100Hz, you will hear a difference.

John


Both of you have done a great job taking over for Bob.

Mark Seaton ran the tests on the sub, then we did the ARC and he readjusted the sub with his software and the hardware addition. So that does not show up on the charts.

I have Thiel 3.7's for my left and right. The room is bad square 18 X 18 with 11 foot screen. Pinball machine to left of left speaker and equipment cabinet to right of right speaker. 4 X 6 foot sound absorbers right next to each speaker. They are about 2 feet from the screen. Cannot move them closer because they will cover the screen. Sounds is amazing. We had Iron man 2 on with the race scene and he had it turned to about -5 and the house moved.

Anything else you can suggest, but very happy.

By the way are you guys using the OPPO and do you intend to buy the 95? If so which processor do you use for video, D2v or 95.

Thanks again to you both.

Gerry


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/19937942
> 
> 
> Hi Gerry. Obviously, I'm not Bob; but, I can give you some advice. Overall, your charts look pretty good. I would suggest two things. 1. If your fronts are near a wall, you should try to move them out away from the wall if you can about 2' to start. 2. Your sub looks really good from 20 Hz to 50 Hz; but, after 50 Hz, you have a 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. I would suggest you try playing around with sub positioning to see if you can correct or mostly correct the 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. However, keep a sharp eye on 20 Hz to 50 Hz to make sure you don't negatively impact 20 Hz to 50 Hz. Other than that, you should enjoy what you hear. Also, you can give what you have a now a listen first so that you will have a reference, and then begin to make the adjustments if you feel that you need to. After listening to what you have now, you just might enjoy it and decide to stick with it. BTW, out of my two suggestions, I would start with the sub first. I think that needs more attention than your fronts. Also, make sure you disable any crossovers or Low Pass Filters/High Pass Filters in your sub.
> 
> 
> I would agree with ninja12 but I guarantee if you fix the 50-100Hz, you will hear a difference.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Both of you have done a great job taking over for Bob.
> 
> Mark Seaton ran the tests on the sub, then we did the ARC and he readjusted the sub with his software and the hardware addition. So that does not show up on the charts.
> 
> I have Thiel 3.7's for my left and right. The room is bad square 18 X 18 with 11 foot screen. Pinball machine to left of left speaker and equipment cabinet to right of right speaker. 4 X 6 foot sound absorbers right next to each speaker. They are about 2 feet from the screen. Cannot move them closer because they will cover the screen. Sounds is amazing. We had Iron man 2 on with the race scene and he had it turned to about -5 and the house moved.
> 
> Anything else you can suggest, but very happy.
> 
> By the way are you guys using the OPPO and do you intend to buy the 95? If so which processor do you use for video, D2v or 95.
> 
> Thanks again to you both.
> 
> Gerry



If you lower the Max EQ back to 5K does the calculated curve get any better in that region?


----------



## slots1

Actually it was at 5k and we raised it to 6.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/19938020
> 
> 
> Actually it was at 5k and we raised it to 6.



The attachment shows 10K for movie and 5 for music


----------



## Mark Seaton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19936850
> 
> 
> Hi Gerry. Obviously, I'm not Bob; but, I can give you some advice. Overall, your charts look pretty good. I would suggest two things. 1. If your fronts are near a wall, you should try to move them out away from the wall if you can about 2' to start. 2. Your sub looks really good from 20 Hz to 50 Hz; but, after 50 Hz, you have a 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. I would suggest you try playing around with sub positioning to see if you can correct or mostly correct the 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. However, keep a sharp eye on 20 Hz to 50 Hz to make sure you don't negatively impact 20 Hz to 50 Hz. Other than that, you should enjoy what you hear. Also, you can give what you have a now a listen first so that you will have a reference, and then begin to make the adjustments if you feel that you need to. After listening to what you have now, you just might enjoy it and decide to stick with it. BTW, out of my two suggestions, I would start with the sub first. I think that needs more attention than your fronts. Also, make sure you disable any crossovers or Low Pass Filters/High Pass Filters in your sub.
> 
> 
> Good luck and let us know how things turn out. BTW, I believe Bob is still monitoring this thread. So, I'm sure he will chime in if he feels you are not being lead correctly.



As Gerry mentioned, I had come in and done some further investigation with what was going on. The reality is that the dip is not there in the front row after the PEQ was added (which is the case for the ARC measurements). Having measured the different measurement points with my TEF25, I can confirm the upper octave bass dip is directly due to the inclusion of 2 measurements at the rear with 6-8 total taken (I forget which). The back row has an excess of bass in the low end and a peak up top which you see in the ARC measurement. We did move the subwoofer from between the C & R to under the center which made for much more consistent measurements across each row. The feel good fix would be to not measure the rear row. The mechanical fix is to add another subwoofer at the rear of the room, which currently won't fit.


I had installed a PEQ to provide a much better starting response, which took some significant boosting and cut a big peak on the bottom end. The other benefit was the ability to make a few last tweaks after ARC was done. Accepting the bass difference in the rear row, and not wanting the subs to be anemic in the front row, I measured the results of ARC at the different seats and chose to leave a little excess in the rear rows rather than pulling down the primary listening positions. This way there was main speaker correction that accounted for both front and rear rows and we massaged the subwoofer trade off between the two rows ourselves.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Seaton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> As Gerry mentioned, I had come in and done some further investigation with what was going on. The reality is that the dip is not there in the front row after the PEQ was added (which is the case for the ARC measurements). Having measured the different measurement points with my TEF25, I can confirm the upper octave bass dip is directly due to the inclusion of 2 measurements at the rear with 6-8 total taken (I forget which). The back row has an excess of bass in the low end and a peak up top which you see in the ARC measurement. We did move the subwoofer from between the C & R to under the center which made for much more consistent measurements across each row. The feel good fix would be to not measure the rear row. The mechanical fix is to add another subwoofer at the rear of the room, which currently won't fit.
> 
> 
> I had installed a PEQ to provide a much better starting response, which took some significant boosting and cut a big peak on the bottom end. The other benefit was the ability to make a few last tweaks after ARC was done. Accepting the bass difference in the rear row, and not wanting the subs to be anemic in the front row, I measured the results of ARC at the different seats and chose to leave a little excess in the rear rows rather than pulling down the primary listening positions. This way there was main speaker correction that accounted for both front and rear rows and we massaged the subwoofer trade off between the two rows ourselves.



Interesting. Thanks for the explanation.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Gerry. Obviously, I'm not Bob; but, I can give you some advice. Overall, your charts look pretty good. I would suggest two things. 1. If your fronts are near a wall, you should try to move them out away from the wall if you can about 2' to start. 2. Your sub looks really good from 20 Hz to 50 Hz; but, after 50 Hz, you have a 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. I would suggest you try playing around with sub positioning to see if you can correct or mostly correct the 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. However, keep a sharp eye on 20 Hz to 50 Hz to make sure you don't negatively impact 20 Hz to 50 Hz. Other than that, you should enjoy what you hear. Also, you can give what you have a now a listen first so that you will have a reference, and then begin to make the adjustments if you feel that you need to. After listening to what you have now, you just might enjoy it and decide to stick with it. BTW, out of my two suggestions, I would start with the sub first. I think that needs more attention than your fronts. Also, make sure you disable any crossovers or Low Pass Filters/High Pass Filters in your sub.
> 
> 
> I would agree with ninja12 but I guarantee if you fix the 50-100Hz, you will hear a difference.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Both of you have done a great job taking over for Bob.
> 
> Mark Seaton ran the tests on the sub, then we did the ARC and he readjusted the sub with his software and the hardware addition. So that does not show up on the charts.
> 
> I have Thiel 3.7's for my left and right. The room is bad square 18 X 18 with 11 foot screen. Pinball machine to left of left speaker and equipment cabinet to right of right speaker. 4 X 6 foot sound absorbers right next to each speaker. They are about 2 feet from the screen. Cannot move them closer because they will cover the screen. Sounds is amazing. We had Iron man 2 on with the race scene and he had it turned to about -5 and the house moved.
> 
> Anything else you can suggest, but very happy.
> 
> By the way are you guys using the OPPO and do you intend to buy the 95? If so which processor do you use for video, D2v or 95.
> 
> Thanks again to you both.
> 
> Gerry



Hard to replace Bob, but we're doing the best we can.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mark,

It sounds like you are on the right track. It might help to know that the red Measured curve in the ARC charts is an unweighted average of the set of mic positions for each speaker.


If you do spot a situation where that seems to be giving incorrect results (doesn't seem to be the case this time), Anthem tech support has a tool they can use to check the recorded response at each mic position -- just email them the ARC results file (NOT the captured chart images).


As best I can tell, the green Calculated curve is simply the result of passing that red Measured curve through the mathematical model of the Room Correction solution the ARC app has built for the processor.


If the measurements for a given speaker at different mic positions are TOO out of whack, ARC will complain at the time of Measurement.


ETA: And for others, remember that you can use Quick Measure to get a feel for the differences the ARC mic is seeing from each speaker at different mic positions. In particular for sub placement, the ideal would be a sub position that produces good response all across your seating area. This is impossible to get perfect of course (that's what ARC is for!), but the closer you can get the better job ARC can do.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19938402
> 
> 
> Hard to replace Bob, but we're doing the best we can.
> 
> John



Aw.










Send in the clones!

--Bob (or is that "clowns"?) P.


----------



## slots1

Thanks so much mark for chiming in. I did not want to bother you. Also, you still need to send me the measurements. I am not unhappy to say we are away from Chicago. But, that means I am away from the D2v and the submersive.

Marks Submersive HP is so WOW.

Also, do you think I should send the ARC files to Anthem?

Thanks all and of course Bob....

Gerry


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19938403
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 
> It sounds like you are on the right track. It might help to know that the red Measured curve in the ARC charts is an unweighted average of the set of mic positions for each speaker.
> 
> 
> If you do spot a situation where that seems to be giving incorrect results (doesn't seem to be the case this time), Anthem tech support has a tool they can use to check the recorded response at each mic position -- just email them the ARC results file (NOT the captured chart images).
> 
> 
> As best I can tell, the green Calculated curve is simply the result of passing that red Measured curve through the mathematical model of the Room Correction solution the ARC app has built for the processor.
> 
> 
> If the measurements for a given speaker at different mic positions are TOO out of whack, ARC will complain at the time of Measurement.
> 
> 
> ETA: And for others, remember that you can use Quick Measure to get a feel for the differences the ARC mic is seeing from each speaker at different mic positions. In particular for sub placement, the ideal would be a sub position that produces good response all across your seating area. This is impossible to get perfect of course (that's what ARC is for!), but the closer you can get the better job ARC can do.
> 
> --Bob




Speaking of Quick Measure, I asked this before, upon opening Quick Measure my graph table defaults to -150dbs to something like -80dbs making my graphs nothing like the final graph that ARC creates. Support has told me that I should adjust it myself to read what ARC calculates by I think it's 80dbs to 0dbs but I find this difficult as when I use my laptop to try and change it from -150dbs X -80dbs to 80dbs to 0dbs my hz also change as I try to adjust so instead of the hz going from 20hz to 2000 mine change to sometimes 20hz to 500hz. Is everyone with me?







Why wouldn't the graph in Quick Measure read the same as the graph that ARC creates by default, is anyone else having trouble adjusting the Quick Measure graph?


John


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/19938757
> 
> 
> Thanks so much mark for chiming in. I did not want to bother you. Also, you still need to send me the measurements. I am not unhappy to say we are away from Chicago. But, that means I am away from the D2v and the submersive.
> 
> Marks Submersive HP is so WOW.
> 
> Also, do you think I should send the ARC files to Anthem?
> 
> Thanks all and of course Bob....
> 
> Gerry



I don't think anybody thought your charts were that bad to begin with and we were just suggesting fine tweaks but it would seem that Mark took the measurements and came up with the best compromise. I wouldn't worry about sending in the files, just sit back and enjoy when you get back.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/19936696
> 
> 
> Please comment on my latest run with the new D2v and Seaton Submersive HP with sub balanced separately.
> 
> Bob if you could.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Gerry



Gerry:


With all the great advice you've been given, the only other thing I've noticed that your reference levels are at about 70dB and not the required 75dB. A quick check with your SPL meter should verify whether your levels are correct. If not, then you can re-adjust the test level to produce the correct reference level and re-measure.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19939250
> 
> 
> Gerry:
> 
> 
> With all the great advice you've been given, the only other thing I've noticed that your reference levels are at about 70dB and not the required 75dB. A quick check with your SPL meter should verify whether your levels are correct. If not, then you can re-adjust the test level to produce the correct reference level and re-measure.



Wouldn't that wreak the EQ that Mark did on his sub?


----------



## slots1

Yes, I think it would change Mark's adjustments, and I am leaving everything alone. We will see in the future.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19938910
> 
> 
> Speaking of Quick Measure, I asked this before, upon opening Quick Measure my graph table defaults to -150dbs to something like -80dbs making my graphs nothing like the final graph that ARC creates. Support has told me that I should adjust it myself to read what ARC calculates by I think it's 80dbs to 0dbs but I find this difficult as when I use my laptop to try and change it from -150dbs X -80dbs to 80dbs to 0dbs my hz also change as I try to adjust so instead of the hz going from 20hz to 2000 mine change to sometimes 20hz to 500hz. Is everyone with me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why wouldn't the graph in Quick Measure read the same as the graph that ARC creates by default, is anyone else having trouble adjusting the Quick Measure graph?
> 
> 
> John



QM is probably picking the scale based on the first, transient measurement. Nothing for it but to rescale as you are doing. I forget, but if there is an AutoScale button on the QM display, that will do it for you.

--Bob


----------



## frank robison

Just finished setting up my D2V, using the SVS-EQ1 and ARC. I never heard better sound. Makes my FIOS sound like a true DVD, with my old ROtel RSP-1068, sounded flat.. however, not more. I love this machine..........................


BTW, I have to give a shout out to Craig Shumer of THEATERMAX LLC of New Jersey. He really was unbelievable to work with during the purchasing process. Always answered the phone, always responded to my many questions without frustration. Best home theater guy I have ever purchased from. Recommended to anyone in the PA and NJ area.


Now back to tweaking my D2V. This machine rocks....!!!!


thanks for all the information you guys have posted. Really helped me out when tweaking this thing.....


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19939378
> 
> 
> QM is probably picking the scale based on the first, transient measurement. Nothing for it but to rescale as you are doing. I forget, but if there is an AutoScale button on the QM display, that will do it for you.
> 
> --Bob



The Y Axis(dbs) has a reading of -180 to -80dbs before I start and hitting Auto Scale will put it back to that if I change it. Maybe I should try downloading the latest ARC again as maybe something got funky when I origionally downloaded it? If this is not the same for everyone else I can't think of another step to try. If someone could tell me what their Auto Scale defaults to on the Y axis it might help.



Thanks, John


John


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/19935401
> 
> 
> I wonder what those issues could be ?
> 
> I have found no issues since changing to 1.47f.



I'll bet ONE big issue is making it safe for those of us with BOTH the wrong video board AND the wrong transformer to install it. I hope.


----------



## p.las

hm...last night i try to make tree measureings, and there where all differnte.

nr one X-overs fr 90 ctr 110 ss115 sub 80

nr two x-overs fr 115 ctr 115 ss1xx sub 120

nr tree x-overs fr 100 ctr 110 ss115 sub 105


is becurse that the microfone is very sensetiv ?

i will post my graphs to night


----------



## [email protected]




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *frank robison* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just finished setting up my D2V, using the SVS-EQ1 and ARC. I never heard better sound. Makes my FIOS sound like a true DVD, with my old ROtel RSP-1068, sounded flat.. however, not more. I love this machine..........................
> 
> 
> BTW, I have to give a shout out to Craig Shuman of Theatermaxx. He really was unbelievable to work with during the purchasing process. Always answered the phone, always responded to my many questions without frustration. Best home theater guy I have ever purchased from. Recommended to anyone in the PA and NJ area.
> 
> 
> Now back to tweaking my D2V. This machine rocks....!!!!
> 
> 
> thanks for all the information you guys have posted. Really helped me out when tweaking this thing.....



Yay Craig. You do us all proud brotha!

Brian


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19942279
> 
> 
> hm...last night i try to make tree measureings, and there where all differnte.
> 
> nr one X-overs fr 90 ctr 110 ss115 sub 80
> 
> nr two x-overs fr 115 ctr 115 ss1xx sub 120
> 
> nr tree x-overs fr 100 ctr 110 ss115 sub 105
> 
> 
> is becurse that the microfone is very sensetiv ?
> 
> i will post my graphs to night



as promised. any thords?

regards Peter


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/19898484
> 
> 
> i finale made it.
> 
> i'am not sure that the room gain is correct, becurse i also use a SVS a1 EQ, so ACR can't see the peaks, and this will cheat the mesured roomgain
> 
> but i must say that the bass is very presice, witt a lot of texture.
> 
> any comment will be nice.
> 
> regards Peter Denmark
> 
> edit: i'ts a mistake in the mowie setup......the front is set to 90hz by ACR, and it works great.




thid is my old and the latest measure, beside the one above


edit......the old one are on page 1073
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8260&page=1073 


ther are more bass on the new graphs. if you arelook on big floor speakers , its not uncommen that the cross over is above 200-400hz, so maby its not that bad


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> thid is my old and the latest measure, beside the one above
> 
> 
> edit......the old one are on page 1073
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8260&page=1073
> 
> 
> ther are more bass on the new graphs. if you arelook on big floor speakers , its not uncommen that the cross over is above 200-400hz, so maby its not that bad



Try switching to flat in advanced settings for sub high pass and then recalculate.

John


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19943432
> 
> 
> Try switching to flat in advanced settings for sub high pass and then recalculate.
> 
> John



I havr tried that, but i think the lov frekvenz are getting to dominated.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I havr tried that, but i think the lov frekvenz are getting to dominated.



Post the chart for your sub.

John


----------



## Texas steve

John, you just want him to post it, so you can show off how good yours is!!!

























> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19944100
> 
> 
> Post the chart for your sub.
> 
> John


----------



## FredericG

Quote:

Originally Posted by *FredericG* 
Hello,


I plan to change my Yamaha Z11 used as processor with a Sherbourn power amplifier 7/200 exclusively for home theater.


My current choice for a processor is limited to Anthem D2V or AVM 50V.


However, I have not been in a position to compare these two processor with the Yamaha Z11.


Then I do not know if I should choose the D2V or the AVM 50V to benefit from a significant improvement of the audio restitution when playing BR and Dvds. (I will not use the processor for HIFI since I have a dedicated system)


What would be your comments and recommendations ?


Kind regards


Frederic
up


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Texas steve*
John, you just want him to post it, so you can show off how good yours is!!!


----------



## studlygoorite

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jayray* 










It's because of yours that I have been working on mine so long, I am now trying stacked 15" Servos this weekend and we will see what kind of graphs I get.







Still wish someone could tell me what their Quick Measure Y axis defaults to.


John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> It's because of yours that I have been working on mine so long, I am now trying stacked 15" Servos this weekend and we will see what kind of graphs I get.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still wish someone could tell me what their Quick Measure Y axis defaults to.
> 
> 
> John



I'm proud to have raised the bar









John


----------



## Heybrook

Hey Guys


I`m trying to run my first quick measure but my computer [win 7] is telling me there`s a problem with my device driver for the mic. One part says it`s up to date, the other part says to contact the manufacturer. Any suggestions or ideas of how to correct or fix this.


Thanks Gary


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19944446
> 
> 
> John, you just want him to post it, so you can show off how good yours is!!!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/19945591
> 
> 
> It's because of yours that I have been working on mine so long, I am now trying stacked 15" Servos this weekend and we will see what kind of graphs I get.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still wish someone could tell me what their Quick Measure Y axis defaults to.
> 
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19945899
> 
> 
> I'm proud to have raised the bar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Well, there's an old saying. "If you got it then flaunt it".







Yes, I will admit that it's because of jayray raising the bar that I worked on my sub. It's not as good as jayray; but, I am pretty satisfied with it. So now, I'm just sitting back and enjoying the fruits of my labor. My wife now ask me "are you going down in your man cave and look like the Joker". My response is "why of course honey". Thanks again jayray for raising the bar and providing the ongoing tweaking tips.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Well, there's an old saying. "If you got it then flaunt it".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I will admit that it's because of jayray raising the bar that I worked on my sub. It's not as good as jayray; but, I am pretty satisfied with it. So now, I'm just sitting back and enjoying the fruits of my labor. My wife now ask me "are you going down in your man cave and look like the Joker". My response is "why of course honey". Thanks again jayray for raising the bar and providing the ongoing tweaking tips.



I am delighted you guys are enjoying your subs and happy I could, in a small way, help you to reach the Holy Grail









John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Heybrook* /forum/post/19946314
> 
> 
> Hey Guys
> 
> 
> I`m trying to run my first quick measure but my computer [win 7] is telling me there`s a problem with my device driver for the mic. One part says it`s up to date, the other part says to contact the manufacturer. Any suggestions or ideas of how to correct or fix this.
> 
> 
> Thanks Gary



I can't help you sorry but when you do open Quick Measure please document what the readings are on the y axis (dbs) of the graph that QM uses before you make any changes to it if you have to.


Thanks, John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19946781
> 
> 
> I am delighted you guys are enjoying your subs and happy I could, in a small way, help you to reach the Holy Grail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Holy Grail ?


There is no Holy Grail in the quest for better sound.

If your satisfied you have lost the spirit that keeps us going.


----------



## p.las

half mode.....shout it bee on ore off. i don't want any compresion etc

/Peter


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Holy Grail ?
> 
> 
> There is no Holy Grail in the quest for better sound.
> 
> If your satisfied you have lost the spirit that keeps us going.



Then I fear I've lost the spirit









John


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19945899
> 
> 
> I'm proud to have raised the bar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Don't forget my chart that is as good as yours.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't forget my chart that is as good as yours.



It looks outstanding. I trust it sounds the same









John


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *usxplong* 
Don't forget my chart that is as good as yours.















If I'm not mistaken, don't we both have sub 25s?

John


----------



## studlygoorite

Quote:

Originally Posted by *p.las* 
half mode.....shout it bee on ore off. i don't want any compresion etc

/Peter
Half mode is for Dolby Volume and if you don't want anything fiddling with your sound I would turn it off, Dolby Volume that is, then the half mode will not be an option.


John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/19950578
> 
> 
> Don't forget my chart that is as good as yours.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19951810
> 
> 
> If I'm not mistaken, don't we both have sub 25s?
> 
> John



Well, I don't have a sub 25; but, I would say that my Velodyne DD-18 is not to shabby.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/19952838
> 
> 
> Well, I don't have a sub 25; but, I would say that my Velodyne DD-18 is not to shabby.



Way to go guys, now I have 2 more subs to order to see if 4 will give me a better graph.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I don't have a sub 25; but, I would say that my Velodyne DD-18 is not to shabby.



The club is getting larger









John


----------



## MStanic

Is ARC 3.01 the same for all preamp processors. I have the D2v but cannot download if from that link (it's broken and doesn't work..I reported it to Anthem today). However, I can download ARC 3.01 via the AVM 50 linik. I assume it's the same software so can be used for the D2V? Does anybody know? Much appreciated.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is ARC 3.01 the same for all preamp processors. I have the D2v but cannot download if from that link (it's broken and doesn't work..I reported it to Anthem today). However, I can download ARC 3.01 via the AVM 50 linik. I assume it's the same software so can be used for the D2V? Does anybody know? Much appreciated.



Yes it works for all pre/pros and receivers.

John


----------



## studlygoorite

Just a note that I received my March edition of the Home Theater Magazine and they have a review of the new Anthem MRX 700 Receiver but the review of the D2v is still in the works????


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a note that I received my March edition of the Home Theater Magazine and they have a review of the new Anthem MRX 700 Receiver but the review of the D2v is still in the works????



On the MRX thread they summarized some of the highlights.

John


----------



## Yartle

Just after some help / feedback. I've had the D2v for 3 days now and its not quite right:



1. Rear surround did not work until I re-flashed the firmware

2. Getting video corruption around 10% of the time when the unit is first turned on. This causes corruption of red colours and once it occurs it does not matter what resolution the screen is on, it does not clear on a restart (full or into standby) but takes between 2-10 minutes to ‘clear’ and the display comes back to normal.

3. Just a bit ‘buggy’, the onscreen menu is shown most of the time, but not consistently and a few odd behaviours.


Is this a back to dealer situation? I borrowed a unit from the dealer before I bought and I didnt have these issues then....


Thanks


Update – the picture corrected itself and then about an hour into watching TV started degrading again. Again the reds became pixelated. Time didn’t sort this out. I swapped the HDMI out from 1 to 2 and this has solved the problem so far but I think it’s going to have to go back.


----------



## jitenn

On the topic of subwoofers, can I keep the LFE and low-level RCA inputs plugged in at the same time?


Ideally, I would want to use LFE for home theater, and low-level RCA for unprocessed audio/vinyl playback (in AnalogDirect mode). I want to keep the audio path free of the ADC-{ARC magic}-DAC processing, and yes, sacrifice room correction, but keep the signal path pristine.


So, that leaves me with no choice but to connect my Focal SW800V sub in both ways: LFE (using the sub1 pre-out jack on the Anthem) + low-level pre-out RCA's (using the RCA L/R pre-out jacks on the Anthem). I want to make sure I don't blow the sub in home-theater mode (i.e., with juice coming to the sub from both the LFE and low-level RCA inputs). It's a pain to keep plugging/unplugging cables from the back of the sub...


Thanks all!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jitenn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On the topic of subwoofers, can I keep the LFE and low-level RCA inputs plugged in at the same time?
> 
> 
> Ideally, I would want to use LFE for home theater, and low-level RCA for unprocessed audio/vinyl playback (in AnalogDirect mode). I want to keep the audio path free of the ADC-{ARC magic}-DAC processing, and yes, sacrifice room correction, but keep the signal path pristine.
> 
> 
> So, that leaves me with no choice but to connect my Focal SW800V sub in both ways: LFE (using the sub1 pre-out jack on the Anthem) + low-level pre-out RCA's (using the RCA L/R pre-out jacks on the Anthem). I want to make sure I don't blow the sub in home-theater mode (i.e., with juice coming to the sub from both the LFE and low-level RCA inputs). It's a pain to keep plugging/unplugging cables from the back of the sub...
> 
> 
> Thanks all!



I can't understand why you would want to cut out ARC. Whatever "pristine" you will preserve will be lost from lack of room correction. This from Anthem's own blind testing comparing analog direct vs. Analog DSP and ARC. You paid for a great preamp and now want to bypass it for analog sources. Just my two cents.

John


----------



## programmergeek

I am also trying to download the arc 3.01 software and it is telling me it is being updated or edited by a user for a while now. I really wanto get this processor going for superbowl. Is there somewhere else I can download this software.


What is going on with Anthum lately? I have left several messages for issues and to buy stuff and no one was returnign my call weeks ago now. Tech support never called me back, still ahve sound dropping out issues now I can't even download the software to get this going for superbowl.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/19957182
> 
> 
> I am also trying to download the arc 3.01 software and it is telling me it is being updated or edited by a user for a while now. I really wanto get this processor going for superbowl. Is there somewhere else I can download this software.
> 
> 
> What is going on with Anthum lately? I have left several messages for issues and to buy stuff and no one was returnign my call weeks ago now. Tech support never called me back, still ahve sound dropping out issues now I can't even download the software to get this going for superbowl.



If you have access to the tech password protected page, it works and ARC can be downloaded.

John


----------



## programmergeek

I don't I never remember the password for the few tims I viset.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/19957453
> 
> 
> I don't I never remember the password for the few tims I viset.



Some *programmer* - a person who writes nothing down


----------



## programmergeek

To many other passwords to remember. Didn't think I would need it till the d2v crashed. If course it happens before a big superbowl party with a ton of audio people comming over. My luck. I will surive may swap my cary 11a back in has better sound anyhow when it works. I do perfer the anthum though.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/19957501
> 
> 
> To many other passwords to remember. Didn't think I would need it till the d2v crashed. If course it happens before a big superbowl party with a ton of audio people comming over. My luck. I will surive may swap my cary 11a back in has better sound anyhow when it works. I do perfer the anthum though.



I could e-mail you whatever SW you need


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/19957182
> 
> 
> I am also trying to download the arc 3.01 software and it is telling me it is being updated or edited by a user for a while now. I really wanto get this processor going for superbowl. Is there somewhere else I can download this software.
> 
> 
> What is going on with Anthum lately? I have left several messages for issues and to buy stuff and no one was returnign my call weeks ago now. Tech support never called me back, still ahve sound dropping out issues now I can't even download the software to get this going for superbowl.



Looks like they are having a problem with their web site.


You can download ARC 3.0.1 from the AVM 50v portion of their downloads (just tried it; it works). What you get is the same thing that you get from the D2v portion. The ARC kit is the same across the board.

--Bob


----------



## jitenn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19955937
> 
> 
> I can't understand why you would want to cut out ARC. Whatever "pristine" you will preserve will be lost from lack of room correction. This from Anthem's own blind testing comparing analog direct vs. Analog DSP and ARC. You paid for a great preamp and now want to bypass it for analog sources. Just my two cents.
> 
> John



I hear you about the listening tests, and completely agree with ARC for digital sources. However, in my setup, vinyl sounds more open with a broader & deeper soundstage in AnalogDirect mode. Even my less-finicky wife agrees.


Yes, I have some records - mostly 80's recordings - that sound better with AnalogDSP, but my older hard rock/ metal recordings sound much better direct. Perhaps it's because I have an AVM50v and not a D2V; not sure. Therefore, I do want the option of AnalogDirect (with bass mgmt through subwoofer) for some records and AnalogDSP (with ARC and Anthem bass mgmt) for others.


That being the situation, will I risk blowing or damaging the sub if I have LFE and line-level RCA inputs connected at all times? I know it's not an issue for AnalogDirect (only line-level RCAs juiced), but for all other modes, there's juice coming in on LFE and line-level RCAs. Thoughts??


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jitenn* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I hear you about the listening tests, and completely agree with ARC for digital sources. However, in my setup, vinyl sounds more open with a broader & deeper soundstage in AnalogDirect mode. Even my less-finicky wife agrees.
> 
> 
> Yes, I have some records - mostly 80's recordings - that sound better with AnalogDSP, but my older hard rock/ metal recordings sound much better direct. Perhaps it's because I have an AVM50v and not a D2V; not sure. Therefore, I do want the option of AnalogDirect (with bass mgmt through subwoofer) for some records and AnalogDSP (with ARC and Anthem bass mgmt) for others.
> 
> 
> That being the situation, will I risk blowing or damaging the sub if I have LFE and line-level RCA inputs connected at all times? I know it's not an issue for AnalogDirect (only line-level RCAs juiced), but for all other modes, there's juice coming in on LFE and line-level RCAs. Thoughts??



Sorry I don't know much about line level stuff and subs but someone here will. As for the analog sources, I guess if it sounds good to you that's all that matters.

John


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


For those amongst us that own a D2 or D2v (maybe even the new AVMs) and that also deal with TV/Projector calibration, I just came back from a Level2 ISF training where I heard from a top guy in Spectracal (first hand) that the new feature that appeared in the version 4 of Calman enabling Video Processor automatic control will very soon totally support our VP (the Gennum).

He actually said that it is already past due so it will be any time now.

What does it mean?

Well it means that if you own the equipment, or call for a calibrator, the Calman software will natively connect to the D2/D2v and auto calibrate the Gennum to finally maximize the effect of this wonderful VP.


Cheers


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jitenn* /forum/post/19959502
> 
> 
> That being the situation, will I risk blowing or damaging the sub if I have LFE and line-level RCA inputs connected at all times? I know it's not an issue for AnalogDirect (only line-level RCAs juiced), but for all other modes, there's juice coming in on LFE and line-level RCAs. Thoughts??



If your sub has both LFE and line level inputs, it should be perfectly fine to connect both at the same time without any damage. I have a Martin Logan Descent-i sub and it also has these inputs featured.


Your sub manual should have instructions on this issue.


Ben


----------



## Warpdrv

Dish Network issue.....


I have had my D2v setup for quite some time and don't really have any problems to speak of, but there has always been this underlying thing with my Dish Network Reciever - the output volume is too low, I find myself turning the volume of the D2v up to accomodate for the what seems to be at least 6db less then all the rest of my equipment... I've looked a few times in setup of the Anthem to see if I can just bump up the volume for that input but haven't found it. Dish is connected through HDMI.


Any suggestions would be very helpful at this point...


thanks


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19951810
> 
> 
> If I'm not mistaken, don't we both have sub 25s?
> 
> John



Yes, I have sub 25. It sound so huge that sometimes I feel I am in a real life show. So far I have not been able to bottom my sub 25 even at reference level or even maybe louder than reference level with deep LFEs. The front grill is moving outward while playing some songs that I think it might make a hole on the grill someday.


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *usxplong*
Yes, I have sub 25. It sound so huge that sometimes I feel I am in a real life show. So far I have not been able to bottom my sub 25 even at reference level or even maybe louder than reference level with deep LFEs. The front grill is moving outward while playing some songs that I think it might make a hole on the grill someday.
Maybe that's why our charts look so good









John


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* 
Dish Network issue.....


I have had my D2v setup for quite some time and don't really have any problems to speak of, but there has always been this underlying thing with my Dish Network Reciever - the output volume is too low, I find myself turning the volume of the D2v up to accomodate for the what seems to be at least 6db less then all the rest of my equipment... I've looked a few times in setup of the Anthem to see if I can just bump up the volume for that input but haven't found it. Dish is connected through HDMI.


Any suggestions would be very helpful at this point...


thanks
Warpdrv, i think you set the level in the volumes setting in the menu for that input. By default, its set to 0, i believe. Can't verify since i'm at work.


----------



## esander3

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* 
Dish Network issue.....


I have had my D2v setup for quite some time and don't really have any problems to speak of, but there has always been this underlying thing with my Dish Network Reciever - the output volume is too low, I find myself turning the volume of the D2v up to accomodate for the what seems to be at least 6db less then all the rest of my equipment... I've looked a few times in setup of the Anthem to see if I can just bump up the volume for that input but haven't found it. Dish is connected through HDMI.


Any suggestions would be very helpful at this point...


thanks
I have a Dish Network DVR-722 connected to my AVM-50 via HDMI and don't have a volume level issue. Are you sure you don't have a problem with your Dish Network receiver?



Ed


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19966476
> 
> 
> Warpdrv, i think you set the level in the volumes setting in the menu for that input. By default, its set to 0, i believe. Can't verify since i'm at work.



Seems that the only adjustment is for analog inputs, so if its still an issue I'll switch to component and optical as there is no hd audio coming through the dish anyways.....


Thanks



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/19966479
> 
> 
> I have a Dish Network DVR-722 connected to my AVM-50 via HDMI and don't have a volume level issue. Are you sure you don't have a problem with your Dish Network receiver?
> 
> 
> 
> Ed



Brand new 722....

Someone suggested to me that in settings I switch the volume leveling to disable.... I'll see if that helps things for me...


Thanks guys


----------



## mlbrand

I'm slow getting around to this, but I just upgraded my D2 to ARC 3.0, and WOW am I ever impressed! Much better bass and dynamics in spades. My system sounds better than ever, even my wife noticed!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm slow getting around to this, but I just upgraded my D2 to ARC 3.0, and WOW am I ever impressed! Much better bass and dynamics in spades. My system sounds better than ever, even my wife noticed!



Do you notice any diff in the charts pre and post v.3.01?

John


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/19959716
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> For those amongst us that own a D2 or D2v (maybe even the new AVMs) and that also deal with TV/Projector calibration, I just came back from a Level2 ISF training where I heard from a top guy in Spectracal (first hand) that the new feature that appeared in the version 4 of Calman enabling Video Processor automatic control will very soon totally support our VP (the Gennum).
> 
> He actually said that it is already past due so it will be any time now.
> 
> What does it mean?
> 
> Well it means that if you own the equipment, or call for a calibrator, the Calman software will natively connect to the D2/D2v and auto calibrate the Gennum to finally maximize the effect of this wonderful VP.
> 
> 
> Cheers



So what does this mean exactly? As I recall the CalMan software works with a number of devices, is this true? Or would I need to specify a calibrator that uses CalMan?


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19967808
> 
> 
> Do you notice any diff in the charts pre and post v.3.01?
> 
> John



I didn't really study the differerence between my old charts and the new ones with 3.01, and I have already deleted the old files and charts. However, from memory I don't think my new charts look much different.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't really study the differerence between my old charts and the new ones with 3.01, and I have already deleted the old files and charts. However, from memory I don't think my new charts look much different.



I noticed better correction with dips on my speakers and better low freq. correction on my sub. The consensus is v.3.01 was a substantial improvement.

John


----------



## xMEATx

I guess I was spoiled as my first ARC measurements were done with 3.01. In your opinion, what improvements could be made with another updated version of ARC?


----------



## jitenn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/19960210
> 
> 
> If your sub has both LFE and line level inputs, it should be perfectly fine to connect both at the same time without any damage. I have a Martin Logan Descent-i sub and it also has these inputs featured.
> 
> 
> Your sub manual should have instructions on this issue.
> 
> 
> Ben



Thanks Ben. I have a Focal Chorus sub and the manual does not tell me much. Trying to find out from Focal directly.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/19969727
> 
> 
> I guess I was spoiled as my first ARC measurements were done with 3.01. In your opinion, what improvements could be made with another updated version of ARC?



Mine sounds so good now I can't imagine what else they could do









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/19968179
> 
> 
> So what does this mean exactly? As I recall the CalMan software works with a number of devices, is this true? Or would I need to specify a calibrator that uses CalMan?



The following is a quote from my calibrator who is very familiar with CALMAN.


"It means that things like brightness and contrast and the other user controls are controllable from my laptop versus having to struggle through the anthem remote. Does it change anything for you? No. All the good stuff is done at the projector end of things and done well. The anthem comes in if there was something we could not fix or get right. The Calman V4 is getting control functionality over a whole bunch of displays and processors."

John


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

email:
http://www.anthemav.com/Contact-Technical-Support 


This is the same as sending an e-mail to [email protected] except that e-mail has a spam filter which can on occasion remove wanted messages from newly seen sender addresses.


phone:

(+1) 905-362-0958, option 2


This is more effective for new issues than trying to contact an individual's extension. Off-peak hours are midweek, midday. If all lines are busy, almost guaranteed on Monday mornings and Friday afternoons, simply leave a voice message including your inquiry and someone will reply at earliest opportunity.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19970608
> 
> 
> The following is a quote from my calibrator who is very familiar with CALMAN.
> 
> 
> "It means that things like brightness and contrast and the other user controls are controllable from my laptop versus having to struggle through the anthem remote. Does it change anything for you? No. All the good stuff is done at the projector end of things and done well. The anthem comes in if there was something we could not fix or get right. The Calman V4 is getting control functionality over a whole bunch of displays and processors."
> 
> John



All true - an external processor is to be used when the projector doesn't have adequate control, for example 10-point gamma correction.


To clarify what recently released CalMAN v4 is about, it's basically a video version of automatic room eq. A measurement instrument with known parameters talks to the PC which inturn talks to the processor to adjust output accordingly. CalMAN always did that except that with v4 it's automated. With previous versions there was a lot of trial and error, like manually adjusting an equalizer and testing again after each manual adjustment, until hitting the bullseye.


Does this mean anything for the end user? Not really, in my opinion, but it's nice for the professional calibrator. If you have tens of thousands of dollars to spend on measurement equipment and a serially-controllable test pattern generator, and the time to take ISF, THX, and/or SMPTE courses then you can become your own pro calibrator but for most people I'd recommend hiring someone to set up the system.


----------



## MStanic

I have ARC for my D2v along with a SUB 15. Is the PBK kit worth purchasing or do you only want to use PBK if you don't have ARC? If they are both intended to work together, which do you run first? Does anybody have any comment including the process/steps to execute ARC and PBK assuming they are intended to work together. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have ARC for my D2v along with a SUB 15. Is the PBK kit worth purchasing or do you only want to use PBK if you don't have ARC? If they are both intended to work together, which do you run first? Does anybody have any comment including the process/steps to execute ARC and PBK assuming they are intended to work together. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks.



They can be used together only if needed. Do a quick measure with your sub and see if it is a good location. If so, just use ARC. If not a good spot, move your sub until quick measure says it's a good spot. Then run ARC. Depending on the best measure you get, PBK can be used first and then run ARC but post your Charts so people can give you some suggestions. PBK is just a version of ARC for subs.

John


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19970249
> 
> 
> Mine sounds so good now I can't imagine what else they could do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Jayray,

I am still using ARC 3.0. Do you think ACR 3.01 is good improvement above 3.0?

I just don't want to do ARC again for something not noticible.


Thanks,


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> I am still using ARC 3.0. Do you think ACR 3.01 is good improvement above 3.0?
> 
> I just don't want to do ARC again for something not noticible.
> 
> 
> Thanks,



I can't even remember the diff b/t these versions or even if there is much. Just read the release notes for 3.0 and then for 3.01.

John


----------



## MStanic

Thanks, I've attached my latest mesaurement/uploaded charts. Note, I changed the Frequency from the default of 5000 to 20000. I uploaded these to my D2V after running ARC 3.01 in the default 5 position.


As far as the PBK kit, will it work on my SUB15 (one of the first ones to be made) seeing as I only have a USB port. In other words, it's not a USB port that specifically denotes PBK on the back of the sub.


Trying to check with Paradigm on this also. In the meantime, any comments on my charts would be appreciated.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/19972527
> 
> 
> Thanks, I've attached my latest mesaurement/uploaded charts. Note, I changed the Frequency from the default of 5000 to 20000. I uploaded these to my D2V after running ARC 3.01 in the default 5 position.
> 
> 
> As far as the PBK kit, will it work on my SUB15 (one of the first ones to be made) seeing as I only have a USB port. In other words, it's not a USB port that specifically denotes PBK on the back of the sub.
> 
> 
> Trying to check with Paradigm on this also. In the meantime, any comments on my charts would be appreciated.



the sub 15 works with PBK. the usb port on the back is for PBK. Your sub has a DSP in it that is required for PBK. Anthem recommends 5K as the upper freq for correction and most here have reverted to this with excellent results. Try moving your sub to see if you can get rid of the dip at 100 Hz. in the measured red curve. Try also changing in ARC the sub high pass to Flat from auto. Your sub is capable of going below 20 Hz. with good volume. Post the sub chart after you try some of these suggestions.

John

John


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19971994
> 
> 
> I can't even remember the diff b/t these versions or even if there is much. Just read the release notes for 3.0 and then for 3.01.
> 
> John



Thanks Jayray.


----------



## MStanic

Ok,


Set the HPF to Flat and the Max EQ Freq to 5000. Reran the tests/calcs but the sub curve looks the same. I am not in a position to really move my sub either.


On my SUB 15, my subwoofer phase alignment is completely off, my subwoofer cutoff frequency is set to bypass and my subwoffer volume level is hardly turned up (maybe at the 9/10 o'clock position from minimum). Should I adjust any of these? Will getting the PBK kit make a difference as I'm using only ARC 3.01 from my D2v to set this.


Thanks again.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok,
> 
> 
> Set the HPF to Flat and the Max EQ Freq to 5000. Reran the tests/calcs but the sub curve looks the same. I am not in a position to really move my sub either.
> 
> 
> On my SUB 15, my subwoofer phase alignment is completely off, my subwoofer cutoff frequency is set to bypass and my subwoffer volume level is hardly turned up (maybe at the 9/10 o'clock position from minimum). Should I adjust any of these? Will getting the PBK kit make a difference as I'm using only ARC 3.01 from my D2v to set this.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



Leave the sub at flat. There is a slightly flatter curve below 20Hz. Leave the correction at 5000Hz. Now listen to something familiar with good LFE. Your other speakers look fine. Some tweaking can be done but for now just listen for a while.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/19966859
> 
> 
> Seems that the only adjustment is for analog inputs, so if its still an issue I'll switch to component and optical as there is no hd audio coming through the dish anyways.....
> 
> 
> Thanks guys



Ofcourse, you could use HDMI for video and analog in for audio from the receiver. Are you sure that thre's no settin in the receiver that affects output volume?


Also, enabling Dolby Volume bumps up the volume siginificantly. I use this s the default settin for my cable box. A benefit is that is naturally helps level with those loud commercials to reasonable levels w/o affect the sound quality of your intended program you are watching.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/19973652
> 
> 
> Ok,
> 
> 
> Set the HPF to Flat and the Max EQ Freq to 5000. Reran the tests/calcs but the sub curve looks the same. I am not in a position to really move my sub either.
> 
> 
> On my SUB 15, my subwoofer phase alignment is completely off, my subwoofer cutoff frequency is set to bypass and my subwoffer volume level is hardly turned up (maybe at the 9/10 o'clock position from minimum). Should I adjust any of these? Will getting the PBK kit make a difference as I'm using only ARC 3.01 from my D2v to set this.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



MStanic, have you phase matched your subwoofer to the mains? If interested, read my post below for using the subs distance setting to do so:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630 


You're wasting your time optimizing the rest of your speaker system if you haven't _first_ phase matched the subwoofer to the mains







.


----------



## erikno

Hello,


I've tried the last 3 days to download the ARC 3.01 version but always get this message;

Quote:

The document is being edited/updated by a User and is unavailable at this moment
Anyone else having the same issue?


erikno


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *erikno* 
Hello,


I've tried the last 3 days to download the ARC 3.01 version but always get this message;




Anyone else having the same issue?


erikno
There is *this posting*


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erikno* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I've tried the last 3 days to download the ARC 3.01 version but always get this message;
> 
> 
> Anyone else having the same issue?
> 
> 
> erikno



Use the file for the AVM 50v, they all use the same file. Only diff. is the manual will be for the AVM 50v.

John


----------



## erikno

Thanks!


erikno


----------



## CerberusII




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19977818
> 
> 
> Use the file for the AVM 50v, they all use the same file. Only diff. is the manual will be for the AVM 50v.
> 
> John



I believe that it asks you which model you have during installation (AVM,D2,MRX) and installs the proper manual.


----------



## CerberusII

Hopefully someone has some insight on my video issue. When watching DTV or media streamer (Dune Prime) through my AVM50v to my JVC X7, the picture stutters. All connections HDMI. This made the Superbowl un-watchable through the AVM. I had to go directly from sat box to projector. With the media streamer, the picture sometimes gets a slightly slow-motion look to it. I can hit pause/play and it is better for a while. Again, no issues with the streamer direct to the projector.

Is there a setting that I am missing? Any ideas?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CerberusII* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I believe that it asks you which model you have during installation (AVM,D2,MRX) and installs the proper manual.



Either way it will work.

John


----------



## Warpdrv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19974949
> 
> 
> Ofcourse, you could use HDMI for video and analog in for audio from the receiver. Are you sure that thre's no settin in the receiver that affects output volume?
> 
> 
> Also, enabling Dolby Volume bumps up the volume siginificantly. I use this s the default settin for my cable box. A benefit is that is naturally helps level with those loud commercials to reasonable levels w/o affect the sound quality of your intended program you are watching.



Didn't think of running an optical from the Dish, nor have tried the Dolby Volume at all just yet, thats a good idea... What settings is everyone using on the DV for situations such as this....


Thanks Dmusoke...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/19978373
> 
> 
> Didn't think of running an optical from the Dish, nor have tried the Dolby Volume at all just yet, thats a good idea... What settings is everyone using on the DV for situations such as this....
> 
> 
> Thanks Dmusoke...



I leave mine more or less at the standard settings.


Dolby Volume: Cinema Reference. This uses the most aggressive volume leveling.

Dolby level: 5 (9 is the default).

Half Mode: ON




- David


----------



## Warpdrv

Thanks David.... I'll give it a shot... Appreciate your help


----------



## MStanic

Thanks, but I'm a little confused.


First off, I have set the speaker distances (from the main listening position to each speaker) and calibrated their levels to 75db prior to running ARC. Is this still the proper process prior to running ARC?


As far as the SUB, I'm not sure I follow regarding either method:


NULL Method:


1. After, the above calibration process is done, now reverse the polarity of the LF speaker terminals. You can do this directly at the speaker terminals or at the back/rear of your power amplifier (but NOT both).


2. Go to your sub distance setting in the Setup -> Listener Position -> Subwoofer in the setup menu.


3. Play your noise source and measure the SPL reading on your RS meter as you vary the subwoofer distance settings from 0 to max in 0.5 ft increments as you record the SPL reading from the RS meter.


4. The distance setting that gives you the MINIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....


Remember to reverse the LF speaker terminals (at the speaker itself or the back of the power amp) to their correct polarity.




PEAK Method:


1. Do NOT reverse LF speaker polarity as described above in NULL method.


Same steps 2-3 as above.


4. The distance setting that gives you the MAXIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....


Assuming I choose to follow the peak method, what is step 3 about? Play my noise source .. is this referring to the test tone generated by the D2v and how do I recognize the minimum reading? As well, is my SUB 15 set correctly to even try these steps based on the 3 settings I described earlier? These setting specifically:


On my SUB 15, my subwoofer phase alignment is completely off, my subwoofer cutoff frequency is set to bypass and my subwoffer volume level is hardly turned up (maybe at the 9/10 o'clock position from minimum). Should I adjust any of these? Will getting the PBK kit make a difference as I'm using only ARC 3.01 from my D2v to set this.


Finally, setting the HPF to Flat, recalculating and uploading to my D2v completely killed my SUB sound. It was basically not even evident. I had to go back to HPF at Auto, recalc and upload to the D2v to get sub sound back again.


All this calibration stuff and there is still some very manual stuff that needs to get done outside of ARC and PBK it seems. Thank ALL, for your help and input.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, but I'm a little confused.
> 
> 
> First off, I have set the speaker distances (from the main listening position to each speaker) and calibrated their levels to 75db prior to running ARC. Is this still the proper process prior to running ARC?
> 
> 
> As far as the SUB, I'm not sure I follow regarding either method:
> 
> 
> NULL Method:
> 
> 
> 1. After, the above calibration process is done, now reverse the polarity of the LF speaker terminals. You can do this directly at the speaker terminals or at the back/rear of your power amplifier (but NOT both).
> 
> 
> 2. Go to your sub distance setting in the Setup -> Listener Position -> Subwoofer in the setup menu.
> 
> 
> 3. Play your noise source and measure the SPL reading on your RS meter as you vary the subwoofer distance settings from 0 to max in 0.5 ft increments as you record the SPL reading from the RS meter.
> 
> 
> 4. The distance setting that gives you the MINIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....
> 
> 
> Remember to reverse the LF speaker terminals (at the speaker itself or the back of the power amp) to their correct polarity.
> 
> 
> PEAK Method:
> 
> 
> 1. Do NOT reverse LF speaker polarity as described above in NULL method.
> 
> 
> Same steps 2-3 as above.
> 
> 
> 4. The distance setting that gives you the MAXIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....
> 
> 
> Assuming I choose to follow the peak method, what is step 3 about? Play my noise source .. is this referring to the test tone generated by the D2v and how do I recognize the minimum reading? As well, is my SUB 15 set correctly to even try these steps based on the 3 settings I described earlier? These setting specifically:
> 
> 
> On my SUB 15, my subwoofer phase alignment is completely off, my subwoofer cutoff frequency is set to bypass and my subwoffer volume level is hardly turned up (maybe at the 9/10 o'clock position from minimum). Should I adjust any of these? Will getting the PBK kit make a difference as I'm using only ARC 3.01 from my D2v to set this.
> 
> 
> Finally, setting the HPF to Flat, recalculating and uploading to my D2v completely killed my SUB sound. It was basically not even evident. I had to go back to HPF at Auto, recalc and upload to the D2v to get sub sound back again.
> 
> 
> All this calibration stuff and there is still some very manual stuff that needs to get done outside of ARC and PBK it seems. Thank ALL, for your help and input.



The flat setting should NOT have that effect, many use it and no one has reported that. Likely it's something else.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/19980473
> 
> 
> Thanks, but I'm a little confused.
> 
> 
> First off, I have set the speaker distances (from the main listening position to each speaker) and calibrated their levels to 75db prior to running ARC. Is this still the proper process prior to running ARC?
> 
> 
> As far as the SUB, I'm not sure I follow regarding either method:
> 
> 
> NULL Method:
> 
> 
> 1. After, the above calibration process is done, now reverse the polarity of the LF speaker terminals. You can do this directly at the speaker terminals or at the back/rear of your power amplifier (but NOT both).
> 
> 
> 2. Go to your sub distance setting in the Setup -> Listener Position -> Subwoofer in the setup menu.
> 
> 
> 3. Play your noise source and measure the SPL reading on your RS meter as you vary the subwoofer distance settings from 0 to max in 0.5 ft increments as you record the SPL reading from the RS meter.
> 
> 
> 4. The distance setting that gives you the MINIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....
> 
> 
> Remember to reverse the LF speaker terminals (at the speaker itself or the back of the power amp) to their correct polarity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PEAK Method:
> 
> 
> 1. Do NOT reverse LF speaker polarity as described above in NULL method.
> 
> 
> Same steps 2-3 as above.
> 
> 
> 4. The distance setting that gives you the MAXIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....
> 
> 
> Assuming I choose to follow the peak method, what is step 3 about? Play my noise source .. is this referring to the test tone generated by the D2v and how do I recognize the minimum reading? As well, is my SUB 15 set correctly to even try these steps based on the 3 settings I described earlier? These setting specifically:
> 
> 
> On my SUB 15, my subwoofer phase alignment is completely off, my subwoofer cutoff frequency is set to bypass and my subwoffer volume level is hardly turned up (maybe at the 9/10 o'clock position from minimum). Should I adjust any of these? Will getting the PBK kit make a difference as I'm using only ARC 3.01 from my D2v to set this.
> 
> 
> Finally, setting the HPF to Flat, recalculating and uploading to my D2v completely killed my SUB sound. It was basically not even evident. I had to go back to HPF at Auto, recalc and upload to the D2v to get sub sound back again.
> 
> 
> All this calibration stuff and there is still some very manual stuff that needs to get done outside of ARC and PBK it seems. Thank ALL, for your help and input.



The sources for the test tones i was talking about are external. I downloaded a freebie software audio generator from the net and used it as my source.


My measurement device was my radioshack SPL meter, which most everyone here uses for ARC measurements.


Make sure the phase knob of your sub is set to zero. As far as your sub sounding thin, did you make sure it measured 75dB when all speaker level settings were set to zero, including the subwoofer?


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19970913
> 
> 
> All true - an external processor is to be used when the projector doesn't have adequate control, for example 10-point gamma correction.
> 
> 
> To clarify what recently released CalMAN v4 is about, it's basically a video version of automatic room eq. A measurement instrument with known parameters talks to the PC which inturn talks to the processor to adjust output accordingly. CalMAN always did that except that with v4 it's automated. With previous versions there was a lot of trial and error, like manually adjusting an equalizer and testing again after each manual adjustment, until hitting the bullseye.
> 
> 
> Does this mean anything for the end user? Not really, in my opinion, but it's nice for the professional calibrator. If you have tens of thousands of dollars to spend on measurement equipment and a serially-controllable test pattern generator, and the time to take ISF, THX, and/or SMPTE courses then you can become your own pro calibrator but for most people I'd recommend hiring someone to set up the system.



Yes, Nick. I agree and I wrote it before. This is only for amateurs who deal with calibration hence they have the equipment, or the professional calibrator.

For the latter i would recommend one that uses Calman just because of that new feature.

And one more thing. Most of the mainstream projectors today get quickly out of range when you push them out to their limits. For example when trying to get a high amount of light output and at the same time keep a flat grayscale and gamma. This is where the internal D2/D2v VP can help a lot. So I do not agree with the other guy here that said that this not a big deal and that you should calibrate the display only.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, Nick. I agree and I wrote it before. This is only for amateurs who deal with calibration hence they have the equipment, or the professional calibrator.
> 
> For the latter i would recommend one that uses Calman just because of that new feature.
> 
> And one more thing. Most of the mainstream projectors today get quickly out of range when you push them out to their limits. For example when trying to get a high amount of light output and at the same time keep a flat grayscale and gamma. This is where the internal D2/D2v VP can help a lot. So I do not agree with the other guy here that said that this not a big deal and that you should calibrate the display only.



He was referring specifically to my setup, which does not experience this drifting.

John


----------



## Kensmith48

I recently bought a new computer and I'm putting in my old web addresses but for some reason I can't get to either tech.anthemav.com or [email protected] . I prefer the 1st address so I can access those files if I need to. Anyone know why I can't contact either address?


Update: I can access [email protected] but why can't I reach tech.anthemav.com?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I recently bought a new computer and I'm putting in my old web addresses but for some reason I can't get to either tech.anthemav.com or [email protected] . I prefer the 1st address so I can access those files if I need to. Anyone know why I can't contact either address?



I just tried the first one and I logged in without any problem. Just go to anthemav.com and get the files there.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I recently bought a new computer and I'm putting in my old web addresses but for some reason I can't get to either tech.anthemav.com or [email protected] . I prefer the 1st address so I can access those files if I need to. Anyone know why I can't contact either address?
> 
> 
> Update: I can access [email protected] but why can't I reach tech.anthemav.com?



The second one is an email address.

John


----------



## Kensmith48

John,

Yeah, I figured that out but why can't I access tech.anthemav.com? I have in the past with the 2 passwords but now it doesn't come up.


----------



## Texas steve

 http://tech.anthemav.com/ worked for me today!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/19984660
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> Yeah, I figured that out but why can't I access tech.anthemav.com? I have in the past with the 2 passwords but now it doesn't come up.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> http://tech.anthemav.com/ worked for me today!



Worked for me too. On a side note, just watched AVP Requiem and wow the sub 25 was rocking







someone on the MRX thread said they tested it but it didn't knock their socks off. There socks must be too tight









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/19984660
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> Yeah, I figured that out but why can't I access tech.anthemav.com? I have in the past with the 2 passwords but now it doesn't come up.



WORKS for me - JUST NOW


----------



## Kensmith48

I got it to work. It's probably because I didn't type http: and the slashes. Thanks for the help. I think I need a break from the new computer. I've been entering to much stuff from the old computer.


----------



## Texas steve

Must have had thier socks super glued on, cuase this sub will knock them off!










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19984725
> 
> 
> just watched AVP Requiem and wow the sub 25 was rocking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> someone on the MRX thread said they tested it but it didn't knock their socks off. There socks must be too tight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/19985462
> 
> 
> Must have had thier socks super glued on, cuase this sub will knock them off!



Oh goodie, cause I just ordered 2 of them.


----------



## astral_essence

Can any of the experts on here tell me how to rollback to the original software version my D2V came with?


My D2V came with v2.04 installed. I just installed v2.10 and have multiple issues that I did not have prior to the upgrade. Namely a very loud noise floor, flickering and clicking noises that can be heard while adjusting EQ & other settings which were not previously experienced and the worst one - my SUB2's are being completely robbed of low end output.


And just an FYI - no settings were tweaked before the update, so its not a case of going in and RE-EQing everything back to the way I had it because I was playing it stock right out the box. Just bass and treble adjustments were made and those same adjustments have been made again.


PS. Dolby volume is definitely screwing it up, because when I turn it off, the overall sound gets much closer to how it sounded before but not quite and the bass is still lacking.


Because of this, I think the update is the culprit.


Thanks for any help on how to do a rollback.


AE


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *astral_essence* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can any of the experts on here tell me how to rollback to the original software version my D2V came with?
> 
> 
> My D2V came with v2.04 installed. I just installed v2.10 and have multiple issues that I did not have prior to the upgrade. Namely a very loud noise floor, flickering and clicking noises that can be heard while adjusting EQ & other settings which were not previously experienced and the worst one - my SUB2's are being completely robbed of low end output.
> 
> 
> And just an FYI - no settings were tweaked before the update, so its not a case of going in and RE-EQing everything back to the way I had it because I was playing it stock right out the box. Just bass and treble adjustments were made and those same adjustments have been made again.
> 
> 
> PS. Dolby volume is definitely screwing it up, because when I turn it off, the overall sound gets much closer to how it sounded before but not quite and the bass is still lacking.
> 
> 
> Because of this, I think the update is the culprit.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help on how to do a rollback.
> 
> 
> AE



Have you reinstalled the latest firmware? Perhaps you should download a fresh copy of the firmware and reinstall it. Maybe it was corrupted. This the easy solution first. Then reupload your ARC file.

John


----------



## astral_essence

I would rather have the version that came with the D2V that I had no issues with.


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The sources for the test tones i was talking about are external. I downloaded a freebie software audio generator from the net and used it as my source.
> 
> 
> My measurement device was my radioshack SPL meter, which most everyone here uses for ARC measurements.
> 
> 
> Make sure the phase knob of your sub is set to zero. As far as your sub sounding thin, did you make sure it measured 75dB when all speaker level settings were set to zero, including the subwoofer?



Where did you get the test tones to do this? At what frequency should the tones be at? Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *astral_essence* /forum/post/19986534
> 
> 
> I would rather have the version that came with the D2V that I had no issues with.



It may have nothing to do with the version you had, if there was a corruption with the latest firmware install. You wouldn't be the first to experience this. If it doesn't work, then ask Anthem for the original file, all you have to lose is a little time.

John


----------



## Michael_V

There must be a number of people on here who use the Roku player with their Anthem. Does anyone want to share the settings they are using? Mine seems to be having HDMI handshake issues. At least half the time when I turn my system on to use the Roku, I end up with a black screen that only goes away if I physically unplug the Roku and restart the Anthem.


Thanks!


----------



## astral_essence




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19986645
> 
> 
> It may have nothing to do with the version you had, if there was a corruption with the latest firmware install. You wouldn't be the first to experience this. If it doesn't work, then ask Anthem for the original file, all you have to lose is a little time.
> 
> John



Thanks for the response John. I will try a fresh download and update tomorrow and see if that cures the problems. On a side note - with this new version, I don't like the fact that I constantly have to switch the Dolby Volume off everytime I turn ON the processor or even change sources. I would think it would just stay on the last setting it was on.


AE


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *astral_essence* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response John. I will try a fresh download and update tomorrow and see if that cures the problems. On a side note - with this new version, I don't like the fact that I constantly have to switch the Dolby Volume off everytime I turn ON the processor or even change sources. I would think it would just stay on the last setting it was on.
> 
> 
> AE



I turned it off and it stays off using 2.10 firmware.

John


----------



## yacht422

i just remeasured "the room", and for the first time _ever_, i had NO gain.

This, after adding some pink stuff to the front wall floor - also moved other existing rigid f/g, but that should have no impact.

the question is, what do i lose from the lack of gain? I manually changed it to +1.5, but only 'cause i seem to remember folks saying there should always be some gain in the room.

my charts were smooth and uneventful, though they drop off at 10kHz by a full 10 db - but i cannot hear up there anyway.

as others note from time to time, we are unable to achieve the ref 75dB w/o boosting the ref noise level to 8 or 9, which anthem says not to do. i am one of those folks.

but, the question is, what would i lose if i left the room at "0" gain.

thx

walt


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *yacht422*
i just remeasured "the room", and for the first time ever, i had NO gain.

This, after adding some pink stuff to the front wall floor - also moved other existing rigid f/g, but that should have no impact.

the question is, what do i lose from the lack of gain? I manually changed it to +1.5, but only 'cause i seem to remember folks saying there should always be some gain in the room.

my charts were smooth and uneventful, though they drop off at 10kHz by a full 10 db - but i cannot hear up there anyway.

as others note from time to time, we are unable to achieve the ref 75dB w/o boosting the ref noise level to 8 or 9, which anthem says not to do. i am one of those folks.

but, the question is, what would i lose if i left the room at "0" gain.

thx

walt
Bob has often suggested around 2 for people who have 0 as their default. Try that and listen. For music try that or a little lower since music engineers don't build in room gain when recording whereas movies are produced with room gain in mind.

John


----------



## MStanic

Can someone summarize the correct sequence of events to get ARC running at it's optimal. I assume it's as follows:


1) D2v set to it's factory defaults

2) Set speaker distances by manually measuring the distance of each speaker and sub from the maing listening position. Enter these dinstances for each speaker on the D2v.

3) Calibrate each speaker to 75db running the D2v sweep test tone using the Radio Shack SPL.

4) Run ARC.


Is this the sequence you're all running?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/19990551
> 
> 
> Can someone summarize the correct sequence of events to get ARC running at it's optimal. I assume it's as follows:
> 
> 
> 1) D2v set to it's factory defaults
> 
> 2) Set speaker distances by manually measuring the distance of each speaker and sub from the maing listening position. Enter these dinstances for each speaker on the D2v.
> 
> 3) Calibrate each speaker to 75db running the D2v sweep test tone using the Radio Shack SPL.
> 
> 4) Run ARC.
> 
> 
> Is this the sequence you're all running?



1. No need to set factory defaults. This only happens when doing firmware. You can save User Settings just as a safety measure.

2. Set speaker distances.

3. Set test level to 75 dB and sub to 75 dB using the volume knob on the back of the sub. other speakers should be zeroed out.

4. Run ARC


John


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19990732
> 
> 
> 1. No need to set factory defaults. This only happens when doing firmware. You can save User Settings just as a safety measure.
> 
> 2. Set speaker distances.
> 
> 3. Set test level to 75 dB and sub to 75 dB using the volume knob on the back of the sub. other speakers should be zeroed out.
> 
> 4. Run ARC
> 
> 
> John


setting test to 75 db - ok

but, setting the sub to 75 db using the knob on the rear is not something i've read before.

is this a new proceedure for the sub?

walt


----------



## smkss

I had everything disconnected on my D2V today as I was moving it to a new shelf. After reconnecting everything I am not getting any OSD (volume level, status etc.) My projector is on HDMI output 1 and my TV is connected to HDMI 2 (which is showing the OSD)

I have reloaded user settings, reloaded factory settings and back to user settings and still nothing. Has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/19991634
> 
> setting test to 75 db - ok
> 
> but, setting the sub to 75 db using the knob on the rear is not something i've read before.
> 
> is this a new proceedure for the sub?
> 
> walt



Not new. Always the recommended procedure.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smkss* /forum/post/19991707
> 
> 
> I had everything disconnected on my D2V today as I was moving it to a new shelf. After reconnecting everything I am not getting any OSD (volume level, status etc.) My projector is on HDMI output 1 and my TV is connected to HDMI 2 (which is showing the OSD)
> 
> I have reloaded user settings, reloaded factory settings and back to user settings and still nothing. Has anyone else experienced this?



Are you sure you didn't swap the outputs? I thought OSD was only on HDMI 1 and not on HDMI 2


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19992175
> 
> 
> Are you sure you didn't swap the outputs? I thought OSD was only on HDMI 1 and not on HDMI 2



I was just going to post the same thing. I believe it is possible to switch it in the video out conf menu too... check for preferred = HDMI.


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/19992167
> 
> 
> Not new. Always the recommended procedure.



welcome to the world of brain farts. Of course it has always been "the recommended proceedure"!








i, for just an instant, had a vision of a marking on the rear of the sub marked "75hz"/\\

The reality is we use the rat shack to set the sub to 75 by using the rear knob, after zeroing the sub setting in the D2.

realized my error after pushing the post button.

walt


----------



## smkss




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I was just going to post the same thing. I believe it is possible to switch it in the video out conf menu too... check for preferred = HDMI.



That's exactly what it was. Thanks a lot!


----------



## MStanic

Ok,


If my D2v is currently configured already by ARC, how can I run 75db calibration. Aren't the volume levels already tweaked by ARC thus calibration to 75db (on a D2v that is configured with ARC) will send signals to each speaker that are not at the default levels. This is why I'm asking/mentioning that the D2v needs to be set to factory defaults. I would like to recalibrate to 75db but how do I achieve this on my D2v if it's already tweaked with ARC and not reset defaults? Also, are we saying that the sub volume level should be adjusted from the sub's volume knob and not the D2v to get to 75db.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/19993332
> 
> 
> Ok,
> 
> 
> If my D2v is currently configured already by ARC, how can I run 75db calibration. Aren't the volume levels already tweaked by ARC thus calibration to 75db (on a D2v that is configured with ARC) will send signals to each speaker that are not at the default levels. This is why I'm asking/mentioning that the D2v needs to be set to factory defaults. I would like to recalibrate to 75db but how do I achieve this on my D2v if it's already tweaked with ARC and not reset defaults? Also, are we saying that the sub volume level should be adjusted from the sub's volume knob and not the D2v to get to 75db.



ARC will not know what is 75db so you have to measure with a SPL Meter, go to level calibration, then noise sequence and change to manual, go down to testlevel and measure with your SPL Meter while adjusting until you achieve 75dbs, you will have to redo ARC if you had to change this level. For the sub, you do the same but scroll down to sub and measure, if it's not 75dbs adjust the volume knob on the sub until it is. You do not have to reset to facory defaults, but if running ARC all speaker levels should be reset to 0.


Here is a step by step for ARC;

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post18914184 


John


----------



## astral_essence

Over a 1000 posts on this thread and no one knows how to do any kind of reset to get the D2V back to it factory default version??


C'mon someone on hear has to know how to do a reset to the software version that came with the product when you bought it.


Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


AE


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *astral_essence* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Over a 1000 posts on this thread and no one knows how to do any kind of reset to get the D2V back to it factory default version??
> 
> 
> C'mon someone on hear has to know how to do a reset to the software version that came with the product when you bought it.
> 
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> AE



You would have to install an earlier version. The question is where to get it. Anthem can do a factory reset I believe, but you would have to send the unit in. Why not call or email Anthem Tech support and ask them.

John


----------



## astral_essence

That's the plan if no one on here knows how. I was just trying to avoid having to go through all that hassle if you know what I mean. Especially if there was an easy way to do it like doing a system recovery on your computer returns it back to the original state it was purchased in with no upgrades. I was hoping there was a similar solution for the D2V.


Thanks.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *astral_essence* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's the plan if no one on here knows how. I was just trying to avoid having to go through all that hassle if you know what I mean. Especially if there was an easy way to do it like doing a system recovery on your computer returns it back to the original state it was purchased in with no upgrades. I was hoping there was a similar solution for the D2V.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



There may be an easier way but Anthem will know if there is.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *astral_essence* /forum/post/19986458
> 
> 
> Can any of the experts on here tell me how to rollback to the original software version my D2V came with?
> 
> 
> My D2V came with v2.04 installed. I just installed v2.10 and have multiple issues that I did not have prior to the upgrade. Namely a very loud noise floor, flickering and clicking noises that can be heard while adjusting EQ & other settings which were not previously experienced and the worst one - my SUB2's are being completely robbed of low end output.
> 
> 
> And just an FYI - no settings were tweaked before the update, so its not a case of going in and RE-EQing everything back to the way I had it because I was playing it stock right out the box. Just bass and treble adjustments were made and those same adjustments have been made again.
> 
> 
> PS. Dolby volume is definitely screwing it up, because when I turn it off, the overall sound gets much closer to how it sounded before but not quite and the bass is still lacking.
> 
> 
> Because of this, I think the update is the culprit.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help on how to do a rollback.
> 
> 
> AE



There is no way to revert firmware except to get the installer for the older version and re-install it that way.


You should call Anthem tech support and go over your problems with them. They may have a better solution for you as the problems you are having with V2.10 are certainly not normal (except that, yes, turning Dolby Volume OFF for most listening is a good idea).


But if not, they can easily make the V2.04 firmware installer available to you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Has anyone here tried "Treasure of the Sierra Madre", Blu-ray using HDMI Bitstream input into the D2v or AVM 50v?


That's this disc:

http://www.amazon.com/Treasure-Sierr...7573220&sr=8-1 


It has a rare DTS-HD MA 1.0 track for the feature. I'm finding that HDMI Bitstream input produces corrupted audio in the V2.10c firmware.


I'm pretty sure this is a D2v bug, but I'd like to get confirmation from someone not using an Oppo Blu-ray player.


HDMI LPCM input works just fine.


The symptom with HDMI Bitstream input is that, although the D2v correctly determines the input is 48KHz DTS-HD MA with only the C channel active, it somehow gets confused and tries to produce output on all speakers, resulting in corrupted audio in the surrounds among other problems.


Pressing Select multiple times shows all speakers active for output (which is, of course, not correct). Pressing Mode once in my 5.1 speaker setup says the Mode for 5.1 input is None. Of course this isn't 5.1 input.

--Bob


----------



## astral_essence

Thanks Bob and John.


I am in the process of re-downloading and re-upgrading the v2.10 software as John had previously suggested. Just in case there was any type of corruption either during the download or upgrade process.


I will let you guys know if I still end up with the same issues after reinstalling the upgrade.


Thanks,

AE


----------



## MikeCornika

Hi Bob,


Is a V2.10c firmware avaible on protected pasword? What is the difference between this and the regular v2.10?

Thanks.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MikeCornika* /forum/post/19997606
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Is a V2.10c firmware avaible on protected pasword? What is the difference between this and the regular v2.10?
> 
> Thanks.



Below are the changes since 2.10. Yes 2.10c is available on the password protected page.

*CHANGE LIST


v2.10c beta:


1. Changed Dolby Volume default to Off and Dolby Volume Leveler to Low.



v2.10b beta:


1. Further muting fixes, for a certain music server.*


John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19997639
> 
> 
> Below are the changes since 2.10. Yes 2.10c is available on the password protected page.
> 
> *CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.10c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Changed Dolby Volume default to Off and Dolby Volume Leveler to Low.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.10b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Further muting fixes, for a certain music server.*
> 
> 
> John



My brand new D2v i got from Anthem a few weeks ago has version 2.10c installed. But in my opinion 2.10 on my 50v is more stable than 2.10c on my D2v. I seem to reset the D2v far more often than the 50v







.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> My brand new D2v i got from Anthem a few weeks ago has version 2.10c installed.



You must be a beta tester









John


----------



## dmusoke

Gents:


I need help to determine what audio frequecies are critical to imaging. I have Sunfire's CRM2 ribbon speakers (5.1) that radiate sound from the front via the ribbon crossed at 1.5kHz and above. It has 2 side woofers that go down to about 100Hz or so.


The problem is that even with the default 5KHz solution, I loose the diffuse 3-dimensional imaging I'm used to. I had to go all the way down to a target frequency of 500Hz to recover most of the imaging i lost.


Thing is w/o ARC, I get my imaging but the voices sound boomy for males and nasal for females and whole tonality is off, but as i said before the imaging is excellent.


Hence my original question....what frequencies are necessary for 3D stereo imaging?


Thanks,

David


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/19999657
> 
> 
> You must be a beta tester
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John










...not really unless its for thesoon to be released D5v


----------



## astral_essence

I re-downloaded the D2V v2.10 software from the Anthem website and did a re-upload and it looks to have cured the issues with the processor.


Thanks guys.

AE


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *astral_essence* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I re-downloaded the D2V v2.10 software from the Anthem website and did a re-upload and it looks to have cured the issues with the processor.
> 
> 
> Thanks guys.
> 
> AE



I'm really glad to hear that







) enjoy the great sound.

John


----------



## smkss

Is it safe to leave the serial cable connected at all times on the back of my D2V? It would not be hooked up to a PC unless doing an update or ARC measurement. Due to accessibility issues it is very tough to get to the back of my D2V to connect the serial cable.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smkss* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it safe to leave the serial cable connected at all times on the back of my D2V? It would not be hooked up to a PC unless doing an update or ARC measurement. Due to accessibility issues it is very tough to get to the back of my D2V to connect the serial cable.



Absolutely. Most of us do that who have space constraints.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smkss* /forum/post/20000338
> 
> 
> Is it safe to leave the serial cable connected at all times on the back of my D2V? It would not be hooked up to a PC unless doing an update or ARC measurement. Due to accessibility issues it is very tough to get to the back of my D2V to connect the serial cable.



Yes...very safe. Most of us here, i believe, roll it up and place it near the back of the D2v until the next next ARC measurement or upload.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smkss* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it safe to leave the serial cable connected at all times on the back of my D2V? It would not be hooked up to a PC unless doing an update or ARC measurement. Due to accessibility issues it is very tough to get to the back of my D2V to connect the serial cable.



I leave it plug it for remote control commands. Very powerful and flexible.


----------



## smkss

I have a Wii hooked up to my D2V through component and it is being output through HDMI 2 to my secondary display which is a Panasonic Plasma which . I do get picture but not any sound due to the analogue audio connection. Besides running Left and Right RCA cables from my WII for sound output to the TV (which unfortunately is not an option) is there any way to make this happen?


----------



## obie_fl

smkss - Do you want sound through your primary speakers with the Wii or another set of speakers? If you are using your mains just plug the Wii analog into whatever input you are using and be sure to enable analog audio under the source setup.


ETA: After re-reading your post I think you may be trying to send analog audio over HDMI to the plasma. I'm not sure this is possible. Have you tried manually copying to zone 2? See section 4.3 of the manual.


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19836011
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been really enjoying my D2v. The audio quality is excellent. As time has gone on, and I have listened to more stuff, I have become convinced that it definitely does sound better than my Anthem AVM 20v2.
> 
> 
> My only day-to-day gripe is with the "no audio" bug. Yes, I know that switching to another source, and then back to the desired sources fixes it, but it is still very annoying. I probably average having to deal with this at least a half-dozen times per week. I find it hard to believe that Anthem thinks this is acceptable behaviour for their premier product. I am also surprised that more people here don't complain about it.
> 
> 
> It is also annoying that it can't seem to remember that I want "frame lock" enabled for my blu-ray player. I have not identified specific circumstances that cause it, but I often have to re-enable the "frame lock" to get 24p. I think it may happen when I turn on the blu-ray player before the D2v, but I have not verified that.
> 
> 
> On a related note, every time I enable "frame lock" the D2v starts forcing audio out of my TV speakers (even though the TV speakers are "off" as far as the TV is concerned). To get the audio to just come out of my Vandersteen speakers, I have to turn the D2v off and then back on.
> 
> 
> Why doesn't Anthem move the "frame lock" setting to the main source menu, instead of having it on the "video processor" menu? If they did that, maybe it would be able to remember that I want "frame lock" always enabled.
> 
> 
> Do I need to report these issues to Anthem? I can't be the only one encountering these bugs, so I assume Anthem already knows about them.
> 
> 
> Otherwise, I am very, very happy with the D2v.
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the auto digital in the source menu set to NO? It should be set to NO.
> 
> 
> Do you have at least 2 video configurations,one for 60fps and the other for 24fps? I have 2 configurations and just toggle between them as the need arises from the remote. I don't use frame lock as it is problematic on my part.
Click to expand...


Setting "auto digital" to NO helped. I no longer have to fight with the D2v to get audio from HDMI sources _every_ day. Now I only have to fight with it whenever I change sources during the same listening session.


For example, if I start off watching a blu-ray, then switch over to watching TV via my DVR, I almost always have to toggle the power on the D2v before I can get any sound. In this scenario, switching inputs does not seem to work.


I now understand why my dealer tried to get me to buy a Mcintosh MX150 instead. I can't imagine many people putting up with an $8500 pre amp behaving like this.


I am sticking with the D2v because it does sound wonderful, but I really hope Anthem fixes the HDMI problems with their next hardware upgrade.


John


----------



## obie_fl

John - If you power up your system in the following sequence many have found it reduces or eliminates HDMI handshake issues. Display - Anthem - Sources. Also I have found that if you power up the Anthem on a non-HDMI source it works better.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20003465
> 
> 
> John - If you power up your system in the following sequence many have found it reduces or eliminates HDMI handshake issues. Display - Anthem - Sources. Also I have found that if you power up the Anthem on a non-HDMI source it works better.



Tom,

I think he was referring to changing sources after everything is booted up. I agree with the sequence, as I have named it the drhankz manuever







. But once everything is on I think he is having problems when switching sources. First time turning things on, yes the sequence works great. I never have problems with syncing since I started using this.

John


----------



## obie_fl

Agreed John. I have a very similar issue if I switch to my Cable DVR from another HDMI source. It usually occurs if I forget to use my power up macro. Never have a problem with the other sources so I always blame the cable box but if I'm careful powering up everything seems to work.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Agreed John. I have a very similar issue if I switch to my Cable DVR from another HDMI source. It usually occurs if I forget to use my power up macro. Never have a problem with the other sources so I always blame the cable box but if I'm careful powering up everything seems to work.



Tom,

I will try changing sources but I don.'t normally. The start up sequence has worked flawlessly but I do feel for those who still have syncing issues.

John

Just tried switching to my HDDVD player, the only other hdmi source I have and no syncing problem.


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/20003276
> 
> 
> Setting "auto digital" to NO helped. I no longer have to fight with the D2v to get audio from HDMI sources _every_ day. Now I only have to fight with it whenever I change sources during the same listening session.
> 
> 
> For example, if I start off watching a blu-ray, then switch over to watching TV via my DVR, I almost always have to toggle the power on the D2v before I can get any sound. In this scenario, switching inputs does not seem to work.
> 
> 
> I now understand why my dealer tried to get me to buy a Mcintosh MX150 instead. I can't imagine many people putting up with an $8500 pre amp behaving like this.
> 
> 
> I am sticking with the D2v because it does sound wonderful, but I really hope Anthem fixes the HDMI problems with their next hardware upgrade.
> 
> 
> John



John did you try hitting pause on your DVR. This happens to me often and I have to hit pause and start or switch to tivo and back.


This is an annoying issue, and I wish Anthem would deal with it, but the sound I get for music and movies is nothing short of spectacular.


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/19836011
> 
> 
> Is the auto digital in the source menu set to NO? It should be set to NO.
> 
> 
> Do you have at least 2 video configurations,one for 60fps and the other for 24fps? I have 2 configurations and just toggle between them as the need arises from the remote. I don't use frame lock as it is problematic on my part.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/20004621
> 
> 
> John did you try hitting pause on your DVR. This happens to me often and I have to hit pause and start or switch to tivo and back.
> 
> 
> This is an annoying issue, and I wish Anthem would deal with it, but the sound I get for music and movies is nothing short of spectacular.



Yes, and that does work about 20% of the time. The other 80%, though. seems to require a power cycle.



John


----------



## jpoet

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jayray* 
Tom,

I think he was referring to changing sources after everything is booted up. I agree with the sequence, as I have named it the drhankz manuever







. But once everything is on I think he is having problems when switching sources. First time turning things on, yes the sequence works great. I never have problems with syncing since I started using this.

John
That sequence is critical for watching a blu-ray. If all I am doing is watching my DVR, I can usually get away with turning the devices on in what ever order I want -- but that is because my DVR is configured to remember the EDID information from the D2v.


The D2v is my first HDMI pre-amp, so I don't know how other brands deal with HDMI, but there has to be a better way. Forcing your average customer to carefully turn on their equipment in a very specific order, is not reasonable.


With my AVM 20v2, I hooked my DVR and blu-ray HDMI directly up to the TV, and never had any problems. I was limited to lossy audio, though.


I realize that HDMI was not designed to make the end user happy -- it was designed to make the movie studios happy. But, high-end gear like the D2v should do a better job at hiding the problems with HDMI from the customer.


I am guessing most HDMI receivers published their EDID information even when they are "off", so the attached devices can be turned on in any order. I am really hoping that Anthem's new HDMI upgrade will implement that behaviour.


My DVI KVM even remember the EDID information from my computer monitor, so if I turn on any of my computer before the monitor it gets the information correct. My TV seems to published it's EDID even when "off", so I don't know if the D2v would need to do that as well, but it would probably be a good idea --- some TVs might not do that.


John


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jpoet* 
That sequence is critical for watching a blu-ray. If all I am doing is watching my DVR, I can usually get away with turning the devices on in what ever order I want -- but that is because my DVR is configured to remember the EDID information from the D2v.


The D2v is my first HDMI pre-amp, so I don't know how other brands deal with HDMI, but there has to be a better way. Forcing your average customer to carefully turn on their equipment in a very specific order, is not reasonable.


With my AVM 20v2, I hooked my DVR and blu-ray HDMI directly up to the TV, and never had any problems. I was limited to lossy audio, though.


I realize that HDMI was not designed to make the end user happy -- it was designed to make the movie studios happy. But, high-end gear like the D2v should do a better job at hiding the problems with HDMI from the customer.


I am guessing most HDMI receivers published their EDID information even when they are "off", so the attached devices can be turned on in any order. I am really hoping that Anthem's new HDMI upgrade will implement that behaviour.


My DVI KVM even remember the EDID information from my computer monitor, so if I turn on any of my computer before the monitor it gets the information correct. My TV seems to published it's EDID even when "off", so I don't know if the D2v would need to do that as well, but it would probably be a good idea --- some TVs might not do that.


John
You have your EDID info WRONG.


Your DVR does not remember anything.

The D2v is a pass through device.


WHAT is the Display Device


----------



## MStanic

Don't think I have the phase thing right at all. Ran Bob's steps, PBK and ARC but sub just sounds totally flat.


With regards to the NULL method:


1) Run Bob's steps setting TEST TONE to 75db from main listening positon with an SPL meter. Leave all other values at zero including Dolby one. Should I set speaker distances to in D2v at this point?

2) Set subwoofer level to 75db using the sub volume knob and leaving the level on D2v at zero.


Now, before I follow NULL method, where do I leave my 3 settings on SUB. The volume level, the PHASE switch and the Cutoff Frequency. What should these be set to before I follow the NULL method.


Am I literally/physically switching the positive/negative connection on back of LF speaker in reverse? Then, I play say a song with tons of bass and increment the sub distance (by .5 increments) until I get the minimal reading. Won't the reading keep going down (minimalizing) with each .5 increment in distance? As well, what reading am I looking for when it's at minimal..is it a minimal db reading such as 75db?


At what point, in all of this, do I run PBK and ARC? Sorry, I am not that techie with this and it just seems confusing..can't get it right. All the help here is much appreciated.


NULL Method:


1. After, the above calibration process is done, now reverse the polarity of the LF speaker terminals. You can do this directly at the speaker terminals or at the back/rear of your power amplifier (but NOT both).


2. Go to your sub distance setting in the Setup -> Listener Position -> Subwoofer in the setup menu.


3. Play your noise source and measure the SPL reading on your RS meter as you vary the subwoofer distance settings from 0 to max in 0.5 ft increments as you record the SPL reading from the RS meter.


4. The distance setting that gives you the MINIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....


Remember to reverse the LF speaker terminals (at the speaker itself or the back of the power amp) to their correct polarity.




PEAK Method:


1. Do NOT reverse LF speaker polarity as described above in NULL method.


Same steps 2-3 as above.


4. The distance setting that gives you the MAXIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....


My preference is for the NULL method for its easier to detect reliable nulls than peaks on the RS meter.


----------



## jpoet

Quote:

Originally Posted by *drhankz* 
You have your EDID info WRONG.
What make you say that?
Quote:

Your DVR does not remember anything.
Yes, it does. nVidia's linux tools let you take a snapshot of the EDID it sees on the HDMI port, and from then on you can use that snapshot in preference to what it sees (or does not see) via HDMI.
Quote:

The D2v is a pass through device.
I wish it was, but that is not even true for video. If it was, then I would not have to *tell the D2v* to send 24p to my TV when watching a blu-ray.
Quote:

WHAT is the Display Device
Samsung HL67A750


John


----------



## smkss

Quote:

Originally Posted by *obie_fl* 
smkss - Do you want sound through your primary speakers with the Wii or another set of speakers? If you are using your mains just plug the Wii analog into whatever input you are using and be sure to enable analog audio under the source setup.


ETA: After re-reading your post I think you may be trying to send analog audio over HDMI to the plasma. I'm not sure this is possible. Have you tried manually copying to zone 2? See section 4.3 of the manual.
That is a better way of putting it. I am trying to send an analog audio signal through hdmi. The only reason I am doing this is I have a secondary display whiich is intended for my kids to play their video games on and I don't want to have to run any new wiring to that tv. I should have thought about that before finishing my basement. I spoke to Anthem tech support today and they advised me to go to the setup menu and change the audio in to analog dsp. Lets see if it works. Thank you for your feedback


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jpoet* 
Yes, it does. nVidia's linux tools let you take a snapshot of the EDID it sees on the HDMI port, and from then on you can use that snapshot in preference to what it sees (or does not see) via HDMI.


John
You have a HTPC not a DVR.


It is remembering not what the D2v is doing - it is forcing

a EDID and probably causing your problems.


----------



## jpoet

Quote:

Originally Posted by *drhankz* 
You have a HTPC not a DVR.
Hmmmm. DVR stands for Digital Video Recorder. My HTPC is a Digital Video Recorder, so it is a DVR.
Quote:

It is remembering not what the D2v is doing - it is forcing

a EDID and probably causing your problems.
You are saying that the D2v can produce different EDID info from one moment to the next? When I took the EDID snapshot from the D2v, it was not immediately preceded by watching a blu-ray, but I really don't see how that would cause the EDID to be different.


The EDID a device produces is supposed to include all the possible "modes" that device understands.. An attached device would then pick the mode it wanted to use from that list.


As long as I don't try to watch a blu-ray first, my HTPC (happy?) and the D2v get along pretty well. The HTPC is producing 1080p60 and (generally) DD5.1 audio (depending on the show I am watching), which the D2v is quite capable of dealing with --- except (it seems) when it is fed DTS-MA first.


It is a good thing that I am able to use a EDID snapshot on the HTPC, or the D2v would have been returned. For years I have been turning the HTCP on before the TV or pre-amp (sometimes long before), and found it _*extremely*_ aggravating when that sequence caused problems with the D2v. It still annoys me with the blu-ray player, but I only watch it about once a week, so I can deal with it.


BTW, the D2v reports itself as a 50v, in the EDID info.


John


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jpoet* 
Hmmmm. DVR stands for Digital Video Recorder. My HTPC is a Digital Video Recorder, so it is a DVR.


You are saying that the D2v can produce different EDID info from one moment to the next? When I took the EDID snapshot from the D2v, it was not immediately preceded by watching a blu-ray, but I really don't see how that would cause the EDID to be different.


The EDID a device produces is supposed to include all the possible "modes" that device understands.. An attached device would then pick the mode it wanted to use from that list.


As long as I don't try to watch a blu-ray first, my HTPC (happy?) and the D2v get along pretty well. The HTPC is producing 1080p60 and (generally) DD5.1 audio (depending on the show I am watching), which the D2v is quite capable of dealing with --- except (it seems) when it is fed DTS-MA first.


It is a good thing that I am able to use a EDID snapshot on the HTPC, or the D2v would have been returned. For years I have been turning the HTCP on before the TV or pre-amp (sometimes long before), and found it _*extremely*_ aggravating when that sequence caused problems with the D2v. It still annoys me with the blu-ray player, but I only watch it about once a week, so I can deal with it.


BTW, the D2v reports itself as a 50v, in the EDID info.


John
SPAMMER

That is the impression I have for you.


FYI - I will never ever respond to your post again.


You come in here complaining about the D2v and

Your Equipment is the source of your problems.


If you owned a DVR like a TiVo.


If you owned a Blu-Ray player.


YOU WOULD HAVE NO PROBLEMS.


I'm DONE!


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Agreed John. I have a very similar issue if I switch to my Cable DVR from another HDMI source. It usually occurs if I forget to use my power up macro. Never have a problem with the other sources so I always blame the cable box but if I'm careful powering up everything seems to work.



I too have had issues with my d2v with muting problems when changing sources. So I feel everyones pain.


----------



## slots1

my D2v is about 3 months old. I thought I was going crazy when I lost the volume. Turned the it off and on, and back it came. This has only happened to me once.

ger


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/20005189
> 
> 
> Don't think I have the phase thing right at all. Ran Bob's steps, PBK and ARC but sub just sounds totally flat.
> 
> 
> With regards to the NULL method:
> 
> 
> 1) Run Bob's steps setting TEST TONE to 75db from main listening positon with an SPL meter. Leave all other values at zero including Dolby one. Should I set speaker distances to in D2v at this point?
> These can be set anytime...
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Set subwoofer level to 75db using the sub volume knob and leaving the level on D2v at zero.
> 
> 
> Now, before I follow NULL method, where do I leave my 3 settings on SUB. The volume level, the PHASE switch and the Cutoff Frequency. What should these be set to before I follow the NULL method.
> 
> - Phase set to 0 degrees as you'll be phasing manually.
> - Cutoff ferquency at the bypass setting or the highest frequency possible.
> - Volume as whatever setting gave you the 75 db SPl reading level you did earlier.
> 
> Am I literally/physically switching the positive/negative connection on back of LF speaker in reverse? (Yes you are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Then, I play say a song with tons of bass and increment the sub distance (by .5 increments) until I get the minimal reading. Won't the reading keep going down (minimalizing) with each .5 increment in distance? As well, what reading am I looking for when it's at minimal..is it a minimal db reading such as 75db?
> 
> As i posted to you earlier, you play several fixed frequency test tones centered around the xover frequency in 5 Hz steps. If its 80hz, start at 60Hz and go up to 100Hz. Playing songs with deep bass is extremely tough to use reliably.
> 
> The minimal dB reading is whatever it turns out to be as you vary the subwoofer distance value in 1 ft increments. Use 0.5ft when you want to horn in to the minimum dB value.
> 
> 
> At what point, in all of this, do I run PBK and ARC? Sorry, I am not that techie with this and it just seems confusing...can't get it right. All the help here is much appreciated.
> 
> I do this last after completing the above steps.
> If you follow the steps I've outlined, you'll get the sub phase matched to the mains. *REMEMBER(!!!)* to switch the polarity of the LF speaker back to normal after these tests or else you'll get really bad sound when playing music.
> 
> 
> NULL Method:
> 
> 
> 1. After, the above calibration process is done, now reverse the polarity of the LF speaker terminals. You can do this directly at the speaker terminals or at the back/rear of your power amplifier (but NOT both).
> 
> 
> 2. Go to your sub distance setting in the Setup -> Listener Position -> Subwoofer in the setup menu.
> 
> 
> 3. Play your noise source and measure the SPL reading on your RS meter as you vary the subwoofer distance settings from 0 to max in 0.5 ft increments as you record the SPL reading from the RS meter.
> 
> 
> 4. The distance setting that gives you the MINIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....
> 
> 
> Remember to reverse the LF speaker terminals (at the speaker itself or the back of the power amp) to their correct polarity.



Have fun and no worries...all will be well sooner than you think







. Please also post your ARC results to see what's going on in your setup.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19999672
> 
> 
> Gents:
> 
> 
> I need help to determine what audio frequecies are critical to imaging. I have Sunfire's CRM2 ribbon speakers (5.1) that radiate sound from the front via the ribbon crossed at 1.5kHz and above. It has 2 side woofers that go down to about 100Hz or so.
> 
> 
> The problem is that even with the default 5KHz solution, I loose the diffuse 3-dimensional imaging I'm used to. I had to go all the way down to a target frequency of 500Hz to recover most of the imaging i lost.
> 
> 
> Thing is w/o ARC, I get my imaging but the voices sound boomy for males and nasal for females and whole tonality is off, but as i said before the imaging is excellent.
> 
> 
> Hence my original question....what frequencies are necessary for 3D stereo imaging?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



Please anyone?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19999672
> 
> 
> The problem is that even with the default 5KHz solution, I lose the diffuse 3-dimensional imaging I'm used to. I had to go all the way down to a target frequency of 500Hz to recover most of the imaging i lost.



Are you talking about stereo imaging or 5.1 playback? I'll assume stereo for the moment. Maybe what you are losing is mismatch between the speakers. How does the phantom image compare with ARC on/off playing a mono signal?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20005582
> 
> SPAMMER
> 
> That is the impression I have for you.
> 
> 
> FYI - I will never ever respond to your post again.
> 
> 
> You come in here complaining about the D2v and
> 
> Your Equipment is the source of your problems.
> 
> 
> If you owned a DVR like a TiVo.
> 
> 
> If you owned a Blu-Ray player.
> 
> 
> YOU WOULD HAVE NO PROBLEMS.
> 
> 
> I'm DONE!



Wow,


I own two DVRs and a Blu-Ray player among other things and have problems. Most problems occur when everything is already powered up and I switch between them. I have changed wires and displays with no affect. Fear not, my miracle cure is almost here guaranteed to resolve all HDMI issues.











John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Wow,
> 
> 
> I own two DVRs and a Blu-Ray player among other things and have problems. Most problems occur when everything is already powered up and I switch between them. I have changed wires and displays with no affect. Fear not, my miracle cure is almost here guaranteed to resolve all HDMI issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



What is it?

John


----------



## gbhodge

On occasion I get frustrated with the quirks of HDMI and the D2v, but then something wondrous happens- I hear the best sound I can possibly imagine from my system and I see this beautiful picture on my tv and I give thanks to Anthem for enhancing the equipment I already had (Halo A51 amp;Panasonic vt series tv;Velodyne DD12 sub;Martin Logan speakers-Vantage fronts, cinema i center, fresco rears).


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/20007049
> 
> 
> Are you talking about stereo imaging or 5.1 playback? I'll assume stereo for the moment. Maybe what you are losing is mismatch between the speakers. How does the phantom image compare with ARC on/off playing a mono signal?



I'm talking about stereo imaging here. The speakers are matched and are Sunfire's CRM2 series for LF & RF. W/O ARC, as mentioed before, i get the imaging i'm used to, a diffuse 3D like image, but the sound is boomy due to room gain effects around 250Hz or so. With ARC, I get rid of the boom(thankfully) but the imaging suffers greatly. I had to reduce the target frequency down to 500hz to recover some of the imaging back.


Hence my quest to determine what audio frequecies are necessary or critical for pin-point imaging.


----------



## shiznit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19999672
> 
> 
> Gents:
> 
> 
> I need help to determine what audio frequecies are critical to imaging. I have Sunfire's CRM2 ribbon speakers (5.1) that radiate sound from the front via the ribbon crossed at 1.5kHz and above. It has 2 side woofers that go down to about 100Hz or so.
> 
> 
> The problem is that even with the default 5KHz solution, *I loose the diffuse 3-dimensional imaging I'm used to*. I had to go all the way down to a target frequency of 500Hz to recover most of the imaging i lost.
> 
> 
> Thing is w/o ARC, I get my imaging but the voices sound boomy for males and nasal for females and whole tonality is off, but as i said before the imaging is excellent.
> 
> 
> Hence my original question....what frequencies are necessary for 3D stereo imaging?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



I also found this to be true when I tried the Anthem MRX 500 using the pre-outs connected to my Bryston amps. It seemed to strip some of the air and detail away that I was used to hearing while running my Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD analog outs into my Bryston SP1.7 pre/pro and the imaging from the Anthem suffered a little because of it.


I have constantly heard how ARC makes things sound so much "smoother" so maybe this is a trait that Anthem incorporated to roll off the top end a little?


I did not experiment by lowering the correction frequency down from 5K, but maybe I should have. You can see my chart for reference and there was not a lot of correction above 500 Hz anyways.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shiznit* /forum/post/20010433
> 
> 
> I also found this to be true when I tried the Anthem MRX 500 using the pre-outs connected to my Bryston amps. It seemed to strip some of the air and detail away that I was used to hearing while running my Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD analog outs into my Bryston SP1.7 pre/pro and the imaging from the Anthem suffered a little because of it.
> 
> 
> I have constantly heard how ARC makes things sound so much "smoother" so maybe this is a trait that Anthem incorporated to roll off the top end a little?
> 
> 
> I did not experiment by lowering the correction frequency down from 5K, but maybe I should have. You can see my chart for reference and there was not a lot of correction above 500 Hz anyways.



Your speakers have a very smooth freq. curve up to around 20,000 KHz. Not much needs to be done there.

John


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20010073
> 
> 
> I'm talking about stereo imaging here. The speakers are matched and are Sunfire's CRM2 series for LF & RF. W/O ARC, as mentioed before, i get the imaging i'm used to, a diffuse 3D like image, but the sound is boomy due to room gain effects around 250Hz or so. With ARC, I get rid of the boom(thankfully) but the imaging suffers greatly. I had to reduce the target frequency down to 500hz to recover some of the imaging back.
> 
> 
> Hence my quest to determine what audio frequecies are necessary or critical for pin-point imaging.



Makes me wonder whether what's going on here has similarities to old style rechanneling for stereo, where the mono signal's frequency range is split into a few bands to send even ones to one channel and odd to the other. Imo the best cure for this fake stereo dreadfulness when mono release isn't available (e.g. JHE Radio One / BBC) is to create your own via downmix.


If left and right channel mids in your "before" measurements have some pretty significant differences while corrected curves are a lot closer to one another as they should be, which just as an example can happen when one speaker is close to a window and the other to an open space, then I wouldn't be surprised if all this is related.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20010073
> 
> 
> ...W/O ARC, as mentioed before, i get the imaging i'm used to, a diffuse 3D like image... Hence my quest to determine what audio frequecies are necessary or critical for pin-point imaging.



by the way diffuse and pin-point are opposites


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20005582
> 
> SPAMMER
> 
> That is the impression I have for you.



Wow! People keep talking about "Drinking the cool-aid". I think you have overdosed.


> Quote:
> FYI - I will never ever respond to your post again.



That actually make me happy.


> Quote:
> You come in here complaining about the D2v and
> 
> Your Equipment is the source of your problems.



Hmmm, so the D2v can't possibly be the issue, huh?


> Quote:
> If you owned a DVR like a TiVo.



I do own a DVR. It just happens to also be a HTPC.


> Quote:
> If you owned a Blu-Ray player.



I do own a blu-ray player. It is a Panasonic DMP-BDT100.


I think part of your problem is that you jump to conclusions.


> Quote:
> YOU WOULD HAVE NO PROBLEMS.



So, you are saying that as long as I limit the attached devices to very specific brands and types, that would solve all my problems --- Sorry that is not acceptable.


> Quote:
> I'm DONE!



Thank you!



I know that HDMI interoperability between devices can be problematic. Saying the D2v is faultless in the equation is narrow-minded. Reading the MRX thread, I don't see reports of problems like I am seeing -- so I am hopeful that Anthem's new hardware will fix the problems.


I have repeatedly said I love the sound of the D2v. So, I have "drunk the cool-aid" as far as that goes. I am still hopeful that HDMI sync issues will be resolved.


John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20008178
> 
> 
> What is it?
> 
> John



One of the co founders of HDMI has created a device that he states will eliminate all HDMI issues. The prototype for this device, called the HDMI Communicator, was just shown at the ISE Show in Amsterdam the first week of February and I almost got my hands on one of the two. Now they are at his distributors for evaluations and beta tests, while more are being made at the factory. He has assured me that I will be one of the first to receive one and when I do, and if it works in my set up, I'll be sure to spread the good news.


Now just so I don't get beat up over this, my dealer/owner told me who this gentleman was and gave me his e-mail address after I let him know of my HDMI Handshake issues.


John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> One of the co founders of HDMI has created a device that he states will eliminate all HDMI issues. The prototype for this device, called the HDMI Communicator, was just shown at the ISE Show in Amsterdam the first week of February and I almost got my hands on one of the two. Now they are at his distributors for evaluations and beta tests, while more are being made at the factory. He has assured me that I will be one of the first to receive one and when I do, and if it works in my set up, I'll be sure to spread the good news.
> 
> 
> Now just so I don't get beat up over this, my dealer/owner told me who this gentleman was and gave me his e-mail address after I let him know of my HDMI Handshake issues.
> 
> 
> John



If it works, then great, use it. May help do people still having syncing issues.

John


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/20010921
> 
> 
> I do own a DVR. It just happens to also be a HTPC.



Right, and I own a television, which happens to also be my laptop, and I own a hammer which happens to also be a brick.


Nothing like stretching definitions to win an argument.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20010810
> 
> 
> by the way diffuse and pin-point are opposites



Thanks







!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20010799
> 
> 
> Makes me wonder whether what's going on here has similarities to old style rechanneling for stereo, where the mono signal's frequency range is split into a few bands to send even ones to one channel and odd to the other. Imo the best cure for this fake stereo dreadfulness when mono release isn't available (e.g. JHE Radio One / BBC) is to create your own via downmix.
> 
> 
> If left and right channel mids in your "before" measurements have some pretty significant differences while corrected curves are a lot closer to one another as they should be, which just as an example can happen when one speaker is close to a window and the other to an open space, then I wouldn't be surprised if all this is related.




Nick:


I play regular CD's and BD disks like everyone else and no artificial stereo effects are in play. Please see my attachments that show side firing woofers and ribbon tweeter. The ribbon is crossed at 1.5kHz from the side-woofers and goes up to 30KHz. My speakers are 2 feet from the front wall and about 3feet from the side walls. The LF/RF speakers are on 4 ft stands.

I just wanted to know what frequencies are crucual for depth and imaging. Right now, i have a target at 500Hz whoch has eliminated the room caused mid-bass boom but wanted more correction at the higher end w/o affecting imaging.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shiznit* /forum/post/20010433
> 
> 
> I also found this to be true when I tried the Anthem MRX 500 using the pre-outs connected to my Bryston amps. It seemed to strip some of the air and detail away that I was used to hearing while running my Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD analog outs into my Bryston SP1.7 pre/pro and the imaging from the Anthem suffered a little because of it.
> 
> 
> I have constantly heard how ARC makes things sound so much "smoother" so maybe this is a trait that Anthem incorporated to roll off the top end a little?
> 
> 
> I did not experiment by lowering the correction frequency down from 5K, but maybe I should have. You can see my chart for reference and there was not a lot of correction above 500 Hz anyways.



You have excellent full range speakers (plus a friendly room) for your graphs are very smooth







.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke* 
Nick:


I play regular CD's and BD disks like everyone else and no artificial stereo effects are in play. Please see my attachments that show side firing woofers and ribbon tweeter. The ribbon is crossed at 1.5kHz from the side-woofers and goes up to 30KHz. My speakers are 2 feet from the front wall and about 3feet from the side walls. The LF/RF speakers are on 4 ft stands.

I just wanted to know what frequencies are crucual for depth and imaging.
I wasn't referring to your source material but to possibilities with uncorrected response. Compare the two examples below - one is from a symmetrical room while the other room has open space on the left and a large window on the right. In that room sound is holographic at central listening position without ARC and pin-point accurate, relatively speaking, with ARC, not to mention siginificantly better-sounding all around.


The reason for mentioning source materal that's processed a certain way is not to make conclusions or even begin but to suggest a possibility by way of analogy. As an aside, note that mono-to-stereo processing isn't limited to mono-original recordings - the same can apply to portions of a busy heavily produced multitrack music recording, such as vocals. It's not my idea of hi-fi but then few commercial music recordings are these days. Another "stereo-like" process is sending a mono source to a stereo or multichannel reverb unit. This is very common and can be heard more easily by disconnecting the center channel speaker (being careful not to short the leads when amp is playing) during dialog with the scene being a larger room.


To summarize, a holographic image results from dissimilarities between left and right, be it time or frequency domain. To see whether this is a possibility in your case, look at the mids in your uncorrected graphs.


----------



## yacht422

When we measure using arc, there are two options for subs.

One is in arc, where we have the option of one or two subs. We always chose one.

There is also an option in the d2 for one or two subs. Do we use one only when measuring? Then, post measurement, do we chose two subs?

Or, regardless of the number of subs we have, is the magic number always one?

Thx

Walt


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When we measure using arc, there are two options for subs.
> 
> One is in arc, where we have the option of one or two subs. We always chose one.
> 
> There is also an option in the d2 for one or two subs. Do we use one only when measuring? Then, post measurement, do we chose two subs?
> 
> Or, regardless of the number of subs we have, is the magic number always one?
> 
> Thx
> 
> Walt



I believe it stays at one.

John


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20006868
> 
> 
> Have fun and no worries...all will be well sooner than you think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Please also post your ARC results to see what's going on in your setup.



How do we handle two subs using this procedure? One on, and one off?

And, if the subs are at very different distances from the listening position, should not the distance for each be handled individually, per test?

i.e. If the left sub is 16' from prime, set this distance in D2, and test per outline. Then, for the sub on the right, which is 20' from prime, set that distance in the D2, and proceed as per outline.(after turning off the left side sub)

walt


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/20019391
> 
> 
> How do we handle two subs using this procedure? One on, and one off?
> 
> And, if the subs are at very different distances from the listening position, should not the distance for each be handled individually, per test?
> 
> i.e. If the left sub is 16' from prime, set this distance in D2, and test per outline. Then, for the sub on the right, which is 20' from prime, set that distance in the D2, and proceed as per outline.(after turning off the left side sub)
> 
> walt



You set the volume on each sub individually, 72dbs each should achieve 75dbs total, as for the distance you take the average of the two subs distances and enter that, so using your example (20' plus 16' = 18').


John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do we handle two subs using this procedure? One on, and one off?
> 
> And, if the subs are at very different distances from the listening position, should not the distance for each be handled individually, per test?
> 
> i.e. If the left sub is 16' from prime, set this distance in D2, and test per outline. Then, for the sub on the right, which is 20' from prime, set that distance in the D2, and proceed as per outline.(after turning off the left side sub)
> 
> walt



I believe you set up each sub individually, setting each to 75dB and then averaging the distances. Phase and polarity are also done separately. ARC hears them as one.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20019386
> 
> 
> I believe it stays at one.
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20019428
> 
> 
> You set the volume on each sub individually, 72dbs each should achieve 75dbs total, as for the distance you take the average of the two subs distances and enter that, so using your example (20' plus 16' = 18').
> 
> 
> John



I agree with both Johns.


Also, when you run ARC, make sure both subs are on so that ARC can hear both of them at the same time. You will have to adjust the phase and polarity of your subs because ARC will not do that, and you should do that before you run ARC.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20019441
> 
> 
> I believe you set up each sub individually, setting each to 75dB and then averaging the distances. Phase and polarity are also done separately. ARC hears them as one.
> 
> John



Actually, each sub should be set to 72db. The two of them together would then yield 75db.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, each sub should be set to 72db. The two of them together would then yield 75db.



Yes I now remember, thanks.

John


----------



## obie_fl

This would be a good time for me to remind Anthem that the next processor needs more then one sub channel. I consider it my duty to bring it up every few months.


----------



## yacht422

john and john et.al:

i'd like to be certain that i posed my second question in the correct frame.

i.e. i was referencing the NULL method of setting sub levels, so as to agree with the LF.

Were your answers specific to that question?(if not, my bad)

It seems to me that when setting volume levels, distance matters.(it really does - there is a rapid drop off in dB's from near field to 18' away,= prime seating)

So - after reversing the LF leads, i should consider the two subs as one, having first set each one to 72dB?

thx

walt


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20020077
> 
> 
> This would be a good time for me to remind Anthem that the next processor needs more then one sub channel. I consider it my duty to bring it up every few months.



My Anthem uses 6 Sub Channels


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/20020078
> 
> 
> john and john et.al:
> 
> i'd like to be certain that i posed my second question in the correct frame.
> 
> i.e. i was referencing the NULL method of setting sub levels, so as to agree with the LF.
> 
> Were your answers specific to that question?(if not, my bad)
> 
> It seems to me that when setting volume levels, distance matters.(it really does - there is a rapid drop off in dB's from near field to 18' away,= prime seating)
> 
> So - after reversing the LF leads, i should consider the two subs as one, having first set each one to 72dB?
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



My answer was not in reference to using the Null method, so please strike it from the record.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> john and john et.al:
> 
> i'd like to be certain that i posed my second question in the correct frame.
> 
> i.e. i was referencing the NULL method of setting sub levels, so as to agree with the LF.
> 
> Were your answers specific to that question?(if not, my bad)
> 
> It seems to me that when setting volume levels, distance matters.(it really does - there is a rapid drop off in dB's from near field to 18' away,= prime seating)
> 
> So - after reversing the LF leads, i should consider the two subs as one, having first set each one to 72dB?
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



I also wasn't referring to those techniques as I am unfamiliar with them, sorry.

John


----------



## yacht422

This was an AHA moment for me.

sorry for the initial confusion regarding my intent.

however, the question remains: using the null method for ensuring that the subs agree with the mains, do i treat each sub individually for null purposes, then have arc treat them as a pair for the measurement process?

Eh?

walt


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20020100
> 
> 
> My Anthem uses 6 Sub Channels



You mean your Anthem provides one channel to six subs.







I've scaled back from six to four. So far I've resisted any external sub DSP box (Audyssey, PBK, Velodyne SMS, ect) but life would be a lot more manageable if the Anthem had two or three more sub channels. Actually while they are at it I'll just take a 7.7 or 9.9 processor.


----------



## obie_fl

walt- For the null method yes do each individually. For ARC think of it as one subwoofer since the Anthem/ARC only has one sub channel.


ETA:This goes out the window if you are using the distance setting for phase control. Set the distance to an average of your subwoofers and adjust phase on the individual subwoofer amps.


ETA2: The distance setting has nothing to do with the level setting. At least in practice.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/20020467
> 
> 
> This was an AHA moment for me.
> 
> sorry for the initial confusion regarding my intent.
> 
> however, the question remains: using the null method for ensuring that the subs agree with the mains, do i treat each sub individually for null purposes, then have arc treat them as a pair for the measurement process?
> 
> Eh?
> 
> walt



No, you should have the both playing at the same time that you are adjusting the distance. Since you are using the null method, the distance with the lowest number is the one that you want to use. After you determine the distance, be sure to switch the cables on the back of your speakers back to black on black and red on red. Make sure you balance your subs before you set the phase.


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *obie_fl* 
You mean your Anthem provides one channel to six subs.







I've scaled back from six to four. So far I've resisted any external sub DSP box (Audyssey, PBK, Velodyne SMS, ect) but life would be a lot more manageable if the Anthem had two or three more sub channels. Actually while they are at it I'll just take a 7.7 or 9.9 processor.








Yes - 6 Individually controlled Subs.


----------



## obie_fl

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ninja12* 
No, you should have the both playing at the same time that you are adjusting the distance. Since you are using the null method, the distance with the lowest number is the one that you want to use. After you determine the distance, be sure to switch the cables on the back of your speakers back to black on black and red on red. Make sure you balance your subs before you set the phase.
I'd suggest that this would work optimally only if he has already put both subwoofers in phase with each other and you can't do that with the distance setting.


----------



## yacht422

again, thanks to all who responded.

walt


----------



## obie_fl

Quote:

Originally Posted by *drhankz* 
Yes - 6 Individually controlled Subs.
Dr - You probably have answered this somewhere earlier in the thread but what if anything do you use between your sub amps and the Anthem?


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *obie_fl* 
Dr - You probably have answered this somewhere earlier in the thread but what if anything do you use between your sub amps and the Anthem?
I was WAITING







for that question.


Rane - SM-26 - you can buy them on eBay Cheap.

I own 4 of them for many uses. I have never paid

more than $50 for any of them.


----------



## ninja12

Quote:

Originally Posted by *obie_fl* 
I'd suggest that this would work optimally only if he has already put both subwoofers in phase with each other and you can't do that with the distance setting.
Yes, I agree. The subs will have to be in phase with each other first. Then, he will have to play a tone around his crossover. Then as the distance is being adjusted the one that gives the lowest SPL is the one that should be used.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20021388
> 
> 
> I was WAITING
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for that question.
> 
> 
> Rane - SM-26 - you can buy them on eBay Cheap.
> 
> I own 4 of them for many uses. I have never paid
> 
> more than $50 for any of them.



Ah I thought for sure you would have one of those fancy Rane active crossover/limiter/compressor/graphic/parametric/EQ/Splitter/Mixer/Bottle Opener models. I may have to pick up an SM 26 especially since most of my sub amps are behind my screen now. Too bad the SM 26 doesn't have a polarity switch on the outputs it would be perfect for my use then, although a bottle opener option would come in handy too.


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *yacht422* 
How do we handle two subs using this procedure? One on, and one off?

And, if the subs are at very different distances from the listening position, should not the distance for each be handled individually, per test?

i.e. If the left sub is 16' from prime, set this distance in D2, and test per outline. Then, for the sub on the right, which is 20' from prime, set that distance in the D2, and proceed as per outline.(after turning off the left side sub)

walt
Walt:


1. I assume the subs are in their optimal positions as well. With subs on opposite sides of the room, set the phase knob of one to 0 and the other to 180 or whatever angle gives you the best frequency response using "Quick Measure". Afterwards, then for each individual sub, set level to 72-73dB if you have 2 subs for a combined 75dB or so. The math isn't precise in the real world so 2 subs set at 72dB will not necessarily produce s combined 75dB, but its close enough anyways


2. Reverse the polarity of the LF speaker. All other speakers MUST be disconnected. You need to listen only to the 2-subs and LF speaker only.


3. Have a variable (external) frequency source that you'll use to vary the frequency over several values around the xover ferquency. If its 80Hz, then i'd take measurements every 5 Hz starting from 60Hz and up to 100Hz.


4. For each test frequency and (with RS meter in hand), vary the sub distance setting until you read a minimum SPL value on the RS meter. Make sure its the minimum by varying the distance around it in 0.5ft increments. You should be able to notice a rise in SPL reading as you go beyond or before the minimal point.


If, for example, the distance to get a maximum null is 8 feet, you'll also get another null at 16 ft, 24ft etc. Thus value is a function of your room dimensions. Please note these values down as you go!


5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 for the next frequency.


You can tabulate the data as i have in my simple attachment. Note that the term "1st NULL" refers to the initial distances i got the null. The term "2nd NULL". To decide which NULL column to use, I choose the one where the dataset had the least variance for all frequencies used in this test. Once i decided on the colum of data to use (2nd NULL in my case), i then computed the average distance from that column and then used that as the new distance value in the "Subwoofer Distance" setting menu.


In my case, it was 31 ft, yet the actual physical distance from my sub to my listening position is 12 feet. The two do NOT have to match. Th is OK. Folks who use Audessey are familiar with this as well.


6. *Reverse the LF speaker polarity to normal (!!!)* and re-connect the rest of your speakers to the amplifier.


7. Enjoy some deep bass LFE music/movies. This procedure is well worth the effort in all cases, imho. The bass sounds amazing and the subs seamlessly integrate well with the mains








 

Speaker Phase Calculations.zip 8.056640625k . file


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20023103
> 
> 
> Too bad the SM 26 doesn't have a polarity switch on the outputs it would be perfect for my use then, although a bottle opener option would come in handy too.



You Mean you can not get the wires in the right order???????????


I use a new technology called *COLOR CODING*


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19996810
> 
> 
> Has anyone here tried "Treasure of the Sierra Madre", Blu-ray using HDMI Bitstream input into the D2v or AVM 50v?
> 
> 
> That's this disc:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Treasure-Sierr...7573220&sr=8-1
> 
> 
> It has a rare DTS-HD MA 1.0 track for the feature. I'm finding that HDMI Bitstream input produces corrupted audio in the V2.10c firmware.
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure this is a D2v bug, but I'd like to get confirmation from someone not using an Oppo Blu-ray player.
> 
> 
> HDMI LPCM input works just fine.
> 
> 
> The symptom with HDMI Bitstream input is that, although the D2v correctly determines the input is 48KHz DTS-HD MA with only the C channel active, it somehow gets confused and tries to produce output on all speakers, resulting in corrupted audio in the surrounds among other problems.
> 
> 
> Pressing Select multiple times shows all speakers active for output (which is, of course, not correct). Pressing Mode once in my 5.1 speaker setup says the Mode for 5.1 input is None. Of course this isn't 5.1 input.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I just finished watching "The Green Berets". It's mastered in Dolby TrueHD 1.0. The Oppo 83 displayed this.


Was therefore surprised to see my D2v indicating 5.1 Dolby TrueHD 48kHz input when Select is pressed. However, only the Center has any output. Signal is clear and uncorrupted.


Ben


----------



## dmusoke

*PLANNED OUTAGE NOTICE*: AVS Forum will be closed and off-line starting Saturday (2/19) at 1:00AM ET. The outage is needed to replace a failed data drive and thus we have chosen to replace all the drives in the RAID array based on age. As such, we the site could be down for at least 4 hours and will not be able to be reached during this time. We hope to reopen by 5:00 AM ET 2/19. Thank you.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20027269
> 
> *PLANNED OUTAGE NOTICE*: AVS Forum will be closed and off-line starting Saturday (2/19) at 1:00AM ET. The outage is needed to replace a failed data drive and thus we have chosen to replace all the drives in the RAID array based on age. As such, we the site could be down for at least 4 hours and will not be able to be reached during this time. We hope to reopen by 5:00 AM ET 2/19. Thank you.



If I get the shakes, what should I take









My wife is delighted.









John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20027357
> 
> 
> If I get the shakes, what should I take
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife is delighted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Wife's happy for you'll get the chance to re-do the Valentines day thing you screwed up on







...


I literary shook when i read bout this outage. Nights aren't the same without my AVS happy pills.







A week ago, the cable police disconnected my cable from the hub (by accident it turned out). Returned home and internet with TV was down. Oh my, what a weird night that was! Can't log into anything, can't watch anything on TV. I had no happy BD disks to play on my Oppo, so i sulked in anger pondering my misfortune. Luckily, I was up 24 hours later. Now I vow to check my hub everytime i get an outtage(cable guy showed me how but i promised him i won't tamper with anything







).


I could do w/o the TV, but the net? No way!!! I know, i'm addicted to AVS, even at work on my breaks and when things are slow. What to do???


Do we have an AVS anonymous group with a 12-step program? Who is the higher power we have to acknowledge on this one?







Help!!!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20027473
> 
> 
> Wife's happy for you'll get the chance to re-do the Valentines day thing you screwed up on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> I literary shook when i read bout this outage. Nights aren't the same without my AVS happy pills.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A week ago, the cable police disconnected my cable from the hub (by accident it turned out). Returned home and internet with TV was down. Oh my, what a weird night that was! Can't log into anything, can't watch anything on TV. I had no happy BD disks to play on my Oppo, so i sulked in anger pondering my misfortune. Luckily, I was up 24 hours later. Now I vow to check my hub everytime i get an outtage(cable guy showed me how but i promised him i won't tamper with anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> I could do w/o the TV, but the net? No way!!! I know, i'm addicted to AVS, even at work on my breaks and when things are slow. What to do???
> 
> 
> Do we have an AVS anonymous group with a 12-step program? Who is the higher power we have to acknowledge on this one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help!!!



Between this and the MRX thread, I could occupy most of my day. The fact there is an itouch app for the AVS forum means I don't even have to boot up my computer. It's too easy









John


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20024911
> 
> 
> You Mean you can not get the wires in the right order???????????
> 
> 
> I use a new technology called *COLOR CODING*



The box in question has a built in amp... I hate re-soldering or re-crimping an RCA connector. That is only slightly more palatable then dropping the amp out of the box which isn't all that accessible.


Oh and for the record I still make up my own Cat-5 cables... granted it takes a pair of 2.5X cheaters and an hour or so but I can still see those colored wires.









And to prove my color code knowledge I still remember "Bad Boys Ravage Only Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly for Silver or Gold" not PC but it stuck for over 30 yrs.


----------



## yacht422

i remeasured prior to most recent NULL procedure(disconnect all speakers, etc)

but, here are thursdays results.

tomorrow, i do it all again.

(there was NO gain, so i manually applied 2.00)

walt


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/20027989
> 
> 
> i remeasured prior to most recent NULL procedure(disconnect all speakers, etc)
> 
> but, here are thursdays results.
> 
> tomorrow, i do it all again.
> 
> (there was NO gain, so i manually applied 2.00)
> 
> walt



My guess as to why you got zero room gain is that both your fronts and your sub show a dip at 100-150hz. ARC doesn't think your speakers are capable to have the boost applied. The bottom end measured on your left front is unreal.


----------



## ninja12

Quote:

Originally Posted by *yacht422* 
i remeasured prior to most recent NULL procedure(disconnect all speakers, etc)

but, here are thursdays results.

tomorrow, i do it all again.

(there was NO gain, so i manually applied 2.00)

walt
Since you have a dip in the Center Channel at the crossover, which is 60 Hz, is my guess why ARC didn't apply room gain. It looks like you have over a 6 db dip at the crossover in the Center Channel. So, if you can try adjusting your center channel such as maybe tilting it up/down towards the listening, or if you have it sitting on a cabinet to make sure you have the front of the center channel more towards the edge of the cabinet to prevent reflections from the cabinet. Also, you have about a 13 db drop at 40 Hz in your sub. So, I suggest you experiment with sub positioning to maybe help fix or mostly fix the dip at 40 Hz. You can use Quick Measure as you are making your adjustments so that you can see the impact as you make your adjustments.


Another thing to look into is room treatments.


----------



## jamulian

AVM 50. I am constantly adjusting the volume when watching movies and it is annoying to see the volume display for a few seconds while watching the movie. If possible, how do I change it. Thanks.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/20027989
> 
> 
> i remeasured prior to most recent NULL procedure(disconnect all speakers, etc)
> 
> but, here are thursdays results.
> 
> tomorrow, i do it all again.
> 
> (there was NO gain, so i manually applied 2.00)
> 
> walt



Walt:

Others have commented well on the possible ways to improve your system, I'll add my 2 cents on the subs 40Hz dip.


Please make sure that each subwoofer is optimally placed using "Quick Measure". The Harmon Kardon R&D division wrote a paper on optimal sub placement for 1,2 4 and 16 subs. The summary of it is that 1 sub is not optimal for even bass within the room. 4 subs provide the best configuration with each sub placed along the center of each wall. 2 subs provide 90% and more of the 4 sub best configuration, again with each sub placed on the opposite center wall opposite. And BTW, 16 subs didn't provide that much more of an improvement over the 4 sub configuration. The law of diminishing returns was definately in effect here.


So, if your listening room decor allows it:


1. Place the 2 subs along the center line of each wall facing each other on opposite walls. Make sure that the phase knob is set to 0 on Sub #1 and adjust the knob on Sub #2 for the best combined ferquency response. (Ofcourse, you would have calibrated the sub volumes to 75dB already







)

The placement could be front wall-to-back wall orsidewall-to sidewall.



2. If option #1 isn't possible, then place both subs along the same wall facing into the room, then perform the due diligence mentioned in option #1. You have 4 walls, so some experimentation is in order







. In my case, my 2 subs are to my right wall near the corners between the left couch







and it sounds marvelous to me.


In either configuration, watch for the best frequency response (i.e most even and most extended possible).


So, once either of the above is done, then phase match to the mains as i mentioned in an earlier thread.


You might want to do a quick ARC run using a 2.1 setup and see what the bass/sub response looks like, before you tackle the full 7.1 calibration. But you should be able to get a pretty accurate idea of your combined sub response using the "Quick Measure" tool.


Good luck, you are almost there







!


David ...



EDIT:


Found the article on Optimal Subwoofer Placement I was talking about here:
http://www.aes.org/tmpFiles/elib/20110218/13680.pdf . Its quite a read but definately worth it.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> AVM 50. I am constantly adjusting the volume when watching movies and it is annoying to see the volume display for a few seconds while watching the movie. If possible, how do I change it. Thanks.



In the setup menu there is a choice for turning the OSD off. Can't remember exactly where but it's there. Check your manual.

John


----------



## Heybrook

AVM 50. I am constantly adjusting the volume when watching movies and it is annoying to see the volume display for a few seconds while watching the movie. If possible, how do I change it. Thanks.


If your a new owner try adjusting or turning off Dolby Volume,,


----------



## yacht422

dmusoke;20029216]Walt


> Quote:
> Others have commented well on the possible ways to improve your system, I'll add my 2 cents on the subs 40Hz dip.



[/color]
Prior to my response(s), my appreciation to all who offered suggestions: all are welcomed and will be acted on, 'tomorrow'(refer to final note)


> Quote:
> Please make sure that each subwoofer is optimally placed using "Quick Measure". The Harmon Kardon R&D division wrote a paper on optimal sub placement for 1,2 4 and 16 subs. The summary of it is that 1 sub is not optimal for even bass within the room. 4 subs provide the best configuration with each sub placed along the center of each wall. 2 subs provide 90% and more of the 4 sub best configuration, again with each sub placed on the opposite center wall opposite. And BTW, 16 subs didn't provide that much more of an improvement over the 4 sub configuration. The law of diminishing returns was definately in effect here.


I have two 15" subs, good to 20 hz, located where a professionally developed program said they should be. That said, in those locations, i have a very large room mode at 25% of the distance from the front wall.


So, if your listening room decor allows it:


1.


> Quote:
> Place the 2 subs along the center line of each wall facing each other on opposite walls. Make sure that the phase knob is set to 0 on Sub #1 and adjust the knob on Sub #2 for the best combined ferquency response. (Ofcourse, you would have calibrated the sub volumes to 75dB already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> The placement could be front wall-to-back wall orsidewall-to sidewall.


I _have had_ my subs in the opposing wall positions, which helped with the mode problem, but then i lost the punch i expected from the subs, the punch that i did not lose in the recommended position.(it is difficult, if not impossible, to balance the sound over an eight chair theater)


> Quote:
> 2. If option #1 isn't possible, then place both subs along the same wall facing into the room, then perform the due diligence mentioned in option #1. You have 4 walls, so some experimentation is in order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . In my case, my 2 subs are to my right wall near the corners between the left couch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it sounds marvelous to me.


will not work for me, as i have super chunks in the rear corners.



> Quote:
> In either configuration, watch for the best frequency response (i.e most even and most extended possible).


My approach has been to use a sound generator to determine the most even bass response in the listening part of the room. I do this by moving from chair to chair and listening for the most even sound, from 40 hz to 100 hz. This has seemed to work, but the room mode mentioned elsewhere (it'll knock out the fillings from the teeth







) remains. Still, if one refrains from standing up in the front of the theater, the mode is not an issue.


> Quote:
> So, once either of the above is done, then phase match to the mains as i mentioned in an earlier thread.


I failed to mention "THE ROOM". It is 16'+ X 23' X 9.5' with eight leather recliners, the rear four on an eight inch 'balcony'. My mains are capable(and audible) to 30hz, the center and surrounds good at 40hz.(all revel ultima salon 'two' speakers. So, there are more clashing lfe effects bouncing around than from just the subs.



> Quote:
> You might want to do a quick ARC run using a 2.1 setup and see what the bass/sub response looks like, before you tackle the full 7.1 calibration. But you should be able to get a pretty accurate idea of your combined sub response using the "Quick Measure" tool.


My plan was to do this today - however, the other half has decreed that the leaves shall be gone: today.







Perhaps, tomorrow.










Good luck, you are almost there







!
re: the link. Thanks! I skimmed it: At 70, the math evades me, but the concepts are understood. Thanks . Walt

David ...



EDIT:


Found the article on Optimal Subwoofer Placement I was talking about here:
http://www.aes.org/tmpFiles/elib/20110218/13680.pdf . Its quite a read but definately worth it.[/quote]


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Heybrook* /forum/post/20030474
> 
> 
> AVM 50. I am constantly adjusting the volume when watching movies and it is annoying to see the volume display for a few seconds while watching the movie. If possible, how do I change it. Thanks.
> 
> 
> If your a new owner try adjusting or turning off Dolby Volume,,



I don't think the AVM50 has Dolby Volume.

John


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20030864
> 
> 
> I don't think the AVM50 has Dolby Volume.
> 
> John



There is Dolby volume on the avm 50


----------



## greyflag

I believe that Dolby Volume exists on the AVM-50v, not on the AVM-50...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> There is Dolby volume on the avm 50



I looked in the avm50 manual and there is no reference to it.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/20030739
> 
> 
> dmusoke;20029216]Walt
> 
> [/color]
> Prior to my response(s), my appreciation to all who offered suggestions: all are welcomed and will be acted on, 'tomorrow'(refer to final note)
> 
> 
> My plan was to do this today - however, the other half has decreed that the leaves shall be gone: today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps, tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck, you are almost there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> re: the link. Thanks! I skimmed it: At 70, the math evades me, but the concepts are understood. Thanks . Walt
> 
> David ...
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> 
> Found the article on Optimal Subwoofer Placement I was talking about here:
> http://www.aes.org/tmpFiles/elib/20110218/13680.pdf . Its quite a read but definately worth it.



[/quote]


Walt:


The only other thing I can think of then is to use bass traps in the corners of your rooom. They are extremely useful and effective in taming troublesome room modes. Companies such as RealTraps, GSK and ReadyAcoutics make some highly effective traps which are home-decor friendly and have high WAF with the spouse. IMO, its imperative for anyone serious about HT to have traps installed in their listening room (unless ofcourse, if you have a room that is scientifically designed to have no resonance modes at all. It might sound great but will look really really ugly







).


I would also recommend high frequency traps on your side walls to absorb wall reflections that when combined with the incident waves from the front mains, mess with the sound imaging in your room. They will also even out the frequency response as well.


----------



## yacht422

Walt:


The only other thing I can think of then is to use bass traps in the corners of your rooom. They are extremely useful and effective in taming troublesome room modes. Companies such as RealTraps, GSK and ReadyAcoutics make some highly effective traps which are home-decor friendly and have high WAF with the spouse. IMO, its imperative for anyone serious about HT to have traps installed in their listening room (unless ofcourse, if you have a room that is scientifically designed to have no resonance modes at all. It might sound great but will look really really ugly







).


I would also recommend high frequency traps on your side walls to absorb wall reflections that when combined with the incident waves from the front mains, mess with the sound imaging in your room. They will also even out the frequency response as well.[/quote]
david: if anything, i may be over damped! There are the superchunks in the rear corners, the front angled walls(3' X 9') are floor to ceiling covered with 3.5" of 701, the front wall on either side of the screen has the same treatment, and i just introduced( as an experiment) pink stuff under the screen.(12" X 10').
[clarification: the front of the theater has angled walls, not 90 degree corners as is typical in most rooms. The angled walls are 40" wide X 9' high, each wall]

it was _post the pink stuff_ that the gain dropped to zero.

(AHA moment for me??)

the first reflection points have 4' X 6' X 3.5" rigid, and there are diffusion items on the rear side walls( GSK units : their recommendation)

So, sunday i'll work on the room again, incorporating recent knowledge - and, perhaps removal of the pink stuff, though from what i've read, this should be "A good thing".









As always,

my appreciation

walt


----------



## jamulian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20031433
> 
> 
> There is Dolby volume on the avm 50



What will Dolby volume do? Does it keep the volume the same?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/20032381
> 
> 
> What will Dolby volume do? Does it keep the volume the same?



basically yes.


----------



## Heybrook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20030864
> 
> 
> I don't think the AVM50 has Dolby Volume.
> 
> John



Sorry J I forgot to mention that all important v


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Heybrook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry J I forgot to mention that all important v



As suggested earlier, turn off Dolby Volume for all sources and then turn it on for TV if you think it will be helpful. Most don't use it for movies or music.

John


----------



## studlygoorite

Well Jayray,


It cost me large but I am getting there. I purchased a Paradigm Sub 2 to try and get a graph like yours.









Paradigm says your cut is in the mail. Still some tweaking to do but this thing is extremely hard to move.


John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20038944
> 
> 
> Well Jayray,
> 
> 
> It cost me large but I am getting there. I purchased a Paradigm Sub 2 to try and get a graph like yours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paradigm says your cut is in the mail. Still some tweaking to do but this thing is extremely hard to move.
> 
> 
> John



Looks good. Welcome to the club. Could you post one after you do the calculation?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20038944
> 
> 
> Well Jayray,
> 
> 
> It cost me large but I am getting there. I purchased a Paradigm Sub 2 to try and get a graph like yours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paradigm says your cut is in the mail. Still some tweaking to do but this thing is extremely hard to move.
> 
> 
> John



John,

Your graph looks fantastic and I humbly acknowledge your entrance into the Jayray Sub Hall of Fame







And as a fellow Canuck it seems to be lonely here so here's hoping some of our US buddies soon join the club and I know some are very close









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/20038998
> 
> 
> Looks good. Welcome to the club. Could you post one after you do the calculation?



Sorry Ninja12, forgot to induct you officially too







Based on his measure I bet I can predict exactly what it will look like. What I won't know is how it sounds









John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20039016
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> Your graph looks fantastic and I humbly acknowledge your entrance into the Jayray Sub Hall of Fame
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And as a fellow Canuck it seems to be lonely here so here's hoping some of our US buddies soon join the club and I know some are very close
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I'm from the US. I will have to post my sub chart when I get home to see if I meet the qualifications for Jayray Sub Hall of Fame.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20039023
> 
> 
> Sorry Ninja12, forgot to induct you officially too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Based on his measure I bet I can predict exactly what it will look like. What I won't know is how it sounds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Thank you. I'm glad to be a member.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20039023
> 
> 
> Sorry Ninja12, forgot to induct you officially too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Based on his measure I bet I can predict exactly what it will look like. What I won't know is how it sounds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Hey !! Can I join the club too?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20039582
> 
> 
> Hey !! Can I join the club too?



If you haven't already set, in the advanced menu of ARC, sub high pass order to FLAT, try it out and post another pic of your sub chart. Seems your sub is dropping off at 20 Hz which could be fixed by setting to Flat. Otherwise it is a stellar looking chart and great red measured curve. What sub do you have?

John


----------



## shiznit

Hey Guys,


For giggles check out the response of my old Paradigm Servo 15 in my living room upstairs and let me know what you think.







I kind of like the HUGE peak I have at 30 Hz and I don't really want to correct it!! You can really feel that bass, it makes the air shudder!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shiznit* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> 
> For giggles check out the response of my old Paradigm Servo 15 in my living room upstairs and let me know what you think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kind of like the HUGE peak I have at 30 Hz and I don't really want to correct it!!



Yikes, that is huge. To say you're getting something other than the original sound track is an understatement so don't get used to it, it needs fixing









John


----------



## Scott B

Does anybody know if Anthem is planning on upgrading the AVM50v and D2v to include a colour management system?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scott B* /forum/post/20040221
> 
> 
> Does anybody know if Anthem is planning on upgrading the AVM50v and D2v to include a colour management system?


*Color Management* Always belongs in the *DISPLAY*.


----------



## Scott B

Agreed, however, many/most displays do not offer a full CMS and in these instances a CMS in the AV processor would be of benefit.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20039608
> 
> 
> If you haven't already set, in the advanced menu of ARC, sub high pass order to FLAT, try it out and post another pic of your sub chart. Seems your sub is dropping off at 20 Hz which could be fixed by setting to Flat. Otherwise it is a stellar looking chart and great red measured curve. What sub do you have?
> 
> John



Thanks for the info on setting Arc to flat. I was away for a lengthly vacation and did not have time yet to redo the ARC setup which I will do this week.


And yes, of course its a Sub2


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info on setting Arc to flat. I was away for a lengthly vacation and did not have time yet to redo the ARC setup which I will do this week.
> 
> 
> And yes, of course its a Sub2



Wicked







all you have to do is change the setting to flat and recalculate to see the diff and with a sub 2 it will be as straight as an arrow.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20040368
> 
> 
> Wicked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all you have to do is change the setting to flat and recalculate to see the diff and with a sub 2 it will be as straight as an arrow.
> 
> John



Jayray: I forgot ... do you use the PBK kit in conjuction with ARC or just plain ARC alone?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scott B* /forum/post/20040221
> 
> 
> Does anybody know if Anthem is planning on upgrading the AVM50v and D2v to include a colour management system?



I know they plan to have a 3D upgrade some time this summer/fall. As for a CMS, many modern displays come with it. Do you have an older display?


----------



## Scott B

I am still making do with a JVC RS1. Given that many high end projectors have an excellent internal video processing, it would be nice for Anthem to take a step back and offer an audio only HT processor with HDMI switching. The video processor in the D2v and AVM50v must cost a good chunk of money, and if it is redundant, then it would be nice to be able to opt out of this added cost.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Jayray: I forgot ... do you use the PBK kit in conjuction with ARC or just plain ARC alone?



Yes I used PBK but it made a diff in my measured curve that ARC saw but hard to say what diff it made in the final solution. Charts are very close with or without PBK. Luckily it sounds amazing









John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20039023
> 
> 
> Sorry Ninja12, forgot to induct you officially too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Based on his measure I bet I can predict exactly what it will look like. What I won't know is how it sounds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Here's a refresher for my qualifications.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/20041625
> 
> 
> Here's a refresher for my qualifications.



Here are my latest set of measurements.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a refresher for my qualifications.



Confirmed, how could I have forgotten that chart;(

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my latest set of measurements.



Looks like you're finished









John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20041675
> 
> 
> Looks like you're finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Yes, my journey is complete, and I am now enjoying the fruits of my labor.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, my journey is complete, and I am now enjoying the fruits of my labor.



I too am there and life has lost all meaning









John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/20041625
> 
> 
> Here's a refresher for my qualifications.




Sweeeeet!


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20041753
> 
> 
> Sweeeeet!



Thank you, and it sounds just as good as the charts look. My wife now calls me the Joker because I be looking like this







while I am watching action movies.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/20041625
> 
> 
> Here's a refresher for my qualifications.



Ninja....this is superb indeed! You might give jayray a run for his money










What sub are you using and how many subs 1 or 2. Is this with ARC alone or you used some other EQ before ARC?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20042960
> 
> 
> Ninja....this is superb indeed! You might give jayray a run for his money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What sub are you using and how many subs 1 or 2. Is this with ARC alone or you used some other EQ before ARC?



I'm using twin Velodyne DD-18s. I use my sub's built-in eq first, and then I run ARC. The subs are located in the front between my mains. My listening room is 4032 cubic feet, and the subs really pressurize the room very nicely.


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scott B* /forum/post/20040251
> 
> 
> Agreed, however, many/most displays do not offer a full CMS and in these instances a CMS in the AV processor would be of benefit.



an outboard processor can only shrink the colour triangle, it cannot expand it beyond the display's capabilities, it might be able to correct the luminance at a particular stimulus


mark


----------



## jamulian

I do have the AVM50v.

I found the dynamics button and I guess that is how I adjust the "Dolby Volume".

I have read the entire manual again and cannot find any information on how to turn off the "OSD". Can someone let me know how to do this. Thank you.


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/20044829
> 
> 
> I do have the AVM50v.
> 
> I have read the entire manual again and cannot find any information on how to turn off the "OSD". Can someone let me know how to do this. Thank you.



Owners manual page 42, section 3.12 "Displays/Timeout". Setup Menu item 12a. - "Main OS Out".


----------



## jamulian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/20045302
> 
> 
> Owners manual page 42, section 3.12 "Displays/Timeout". Setup Menu item 12a. - "Main OS Out".



Thanks Picasso Moon. That worked.

I am kind of new at this stuff.


----------



## Picasso Moon

Here is capture of my latest run with ARC Flat turned on. Twin Seaton Sound SubMersive HP subs (in a room where one would be more than enough







) with an SVS AS-EQ1 in the loop. I'm pretty happy this the results.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is capture of my latest run with ARC Flat turned on. Twin Seaton Sound SubMersive HP subs (in a room where one would be more than enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) with an SVS AS-EQ1 in the loop. I'm pretty happy this the results.



Another Jayray Sub Hall of Fame award winner. Great looking sub







The Flat setting looks very good.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/20047893
> 
> 
> Here is capture of my latest run with ARC Flat turned on. Twin Seaton Sound SubMersive HP subs (in a room where one would be more than enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) with an SVS AS-EQ1 in the loop. I'm pretty happy this the results.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20047931
> 
> 
> Another Jayray Sub Hall of Fame award winner. Great looking sub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Flat setting looks very good.
> 
> John



Looks good and welcome to Jayray Sub Hall of Fame.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/20047893
> 
> 
> Here is capture of my latest run with ARC Flat turned on. Twin Seaton Sound SubMersive HP subs (in a room where one would be more than enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) with an SVS AS-EQ1 in the loop. I'm pretty happy this the results.



Very, very nice.


----------



## studlygoorite

I've been thinking about these graphs and have a question. We are striving to get a bass graph that extends as far out as possible, far beyond what our target is. Does not ARC, after its calculations, cut our measured curve back to what the target is as you can see with the green line?


John


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20050349
> 
> 
> I've been thinking about these graphs and have a question. We are striving to get a bass graph that extends as far out as possible, far beyond what our target is. Does not ARC, after its calculations, cut our measured curve back to what the target is as you can see with the green line?
> 
> 
> John



Maybe I'm confused what you are asking. Are you talking about the frequencies above the target, above the usual 80 - 100hz? In other words extending the response to the right. There is no reason to extend the bass above 120hz unless of course you have some very tiny cube main speakers and then you will have to deal with localized bass. In most systems the cutoff should be some where between 60 - 100 if you have even halfway capable mains. Extending your subwoofer response to the right doesn't buy you anything.


Now if you are talking about the low end then yes it has been said that ARC provides corrections below 20hz that are not shown on the graphs.


ETA: In direct answer to your question Yes ARC cuts back from the measured to the calculated curve as it should to blend with the mains.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20050349
> 
> 
> I've been thinking about these graphs and have a question. We are striving to get a bass graph that extends as far out as possible, far beyond what our target is. Does not ARC, after its calculations, cut our measured curve back to what the target is as you can see with the green line?
> 
> 
> John



You want the subwoofer to have as wide a response as possible to give ARC the best chance of optimizing your sub's response to the mains. In my case, unfortunately, my sub's high end response taps out at 90Hz at the most in my room so ARC sets it to 80Hz. This is rather low for my satellites whose low end response goes down to only 110Hz or so. So I have a hole between 80hz and 110Hz. If my sub's response was higher (such as is shown in the plots above), then ARC would have increased my cutoff from 80hz to 120Hz and blended better with my mains.


David


----------



## obie_fl

David are you sure your subwoofer doesn't have a crossover turned on? It seems kind of strange that it would drop out at 90hz.


----------



## studlygoorite

So it is best to achieve a bass graph that is as close to the target line as possible so ARC doesn't have that much to do? I have always been trying to get the measured curve out past 100 to 200hz at 75dbs. If ARC is going to bring everything back to the target line and all of my graphs, we are talking around 50 now, have always been above and beyond the target line then I have never had a problem with my bass?


John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20051665
> 
> 
> David are you sure your subwoofer doesn't have a crossover turned on? It seems kind of strange that it would drop out at 90hz.



I wish that was the case. I have 2 subs and my bandwidth knob is all the way to off or max. I have moved them all over my small apartments living room and this is the best i could get. My bandwidth (F3) is about 90 Hz (at an SPL of about 72 dB). So you can imagine my envy when I see these 'jayray' subs folks have been posting about recently


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I wish that was the case. I have 2 subs and my bandwidth knob is all the way to off or max. I have moved them all over my small apartments living room and this is the best i could get. My bandwidth (F3) is about 90 Hz (at an SPL of about 72 dB). So you can imagine my envy when I see these 'jayray' subs folks have been posting about recently



You know of course location is how we've gotten most if not all of these results. I know this isn't an option for everyone









John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20053137
> 
> 
> So it is best to achieve a bass graph that is as close to the target line as possible so ARC doesn't have that much to do? I have always been trying to get the measured curve out past 100 to 200hz at 75dbs. If ARC is going to bring everything back to the target line and all of my graphs, we are talking around 50 now, have always been above and beyond the target line then I have never had a problem with my bass?
> 
> 
> John



As you know, ARC will correct the 'wigglies' or uneven frequency responses in your subwoofer graph, assuming you don't have a huge null it can't correct for. You definately want to shoot for as wide a response as possible. Also note that these graphs were pre-processed by other Bass or room EQ systems before ARC, notably the PBK kit (from Paradigm) and SMS-1 EQ (from Velodyne) systems so the graphs look really pretty and have those marine style flat-tops







.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20053197
> 
> 
> You know of course location is how we've gotten most if not all of these results. I know this isn't an option for everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I get the best response when the subs are exactly middle in my room. In this case, they may as well become foot rests


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> As you know, ARC will correct the 'wigglies' or uneven frequency responses in your subwoofer graph, assuming you don't have a huge null it can't correct for. You definately want to shoot for as wide a response as possible. Also note that these graphs were pre-processed by other Bass or room EQ systems before ARC, notably the PBK kit (from Paradigm) and SMS-1 EQ (from Velodyne) systems so the graphs look really pretty and have those marine style flat-tops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



PBK made a diff in my measured curve but the solution was almost the same as without PBK.

John


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20053138
> 
> 
> I wish that was the case. I have 2 subs and my bandwidth knob is all the way to off or max. I have moved them all over my small apartments living room and this is the best i could get. My bandwidth (F3) is about 90 Hz (at an SPL of about 72 dB). So you can imagine my envy when I see these 'jayray' subs folks have been posting about recently



It really does look like something is making those roll off fast. I wonder if the subs have some kind of built-in upper limiter. Kind of weird but you never know. Another long shot but have you ever just measured one sub at a time? I doubt it is cancellation but again you never know. If you could somehow tame that peak at 55 I bet ARC could get you flat to at least 80hz. You really aren't in that bad of shape you just need capable mains.


----------



## Michael_V

I just scanned the last several pages and cannot find an answer to this question, so I'm posting it again:


If anyone is using a Roku with their Anthem and NOT having HDMI handshake issues, can you PLEASE share the settings you are using? I have tried every combination I can think of, but at least half the time when I turn my system on to use the Roku, I end up with a black screen that only goes away if I physically unplug the Roku and restart the Anthem.


Thanks in advance!


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/20055358
> 
> 
> I just scanned the last several pages and cannot find an answer to this question, so I'm posting it again:
> 
> 
> If anyone is using a Roku with their Anthem and NOT having HDMI handshake issues, can you PLEASE share the settings you are using? I have tried every combination I can think of, but at least half the time when I turn my system on to use the Roku, I end up with a black screen that only goes away if I physically unplug the Roku and restart the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!



There is a sequence for initial power-up that seems to help:

Display > Anthem > Source.


If you have a universal remote you should be able to set this up--you may need to add a time delay between the power on commands.


Also make sure that you have 'auto digital' turned to 'off' in the Anthem source set-up that you have assigned the roku to.

Make sure any CEC settings are turned off in the display and roku.


If the roku does not send out 1080p and/or lossless audio (and I don't think they do yet) then connecting by component for video and coax or toslink for audio should send out up to 1080i and DD 5.1. This is a work around, and means more cables, but usually works if nothing else helps.


Which Anthem are you using?? I ask because for there are test firmwares available for some models. I have a D2 and use the v1.47f and the handshakes are greatly improved.


Please contact Anthem tech. They can advise you if there is a test firmware that might help you, or make other suggestions. You should also let them know about problems so that they can make fixes in future firmware releases.


Tom


----------



## studlygoorite

So I decided to move my sub 2 again and run ARC, everything was all screwed up, my graphs were off, my cutoffs were off, and it sounded like crap. Guess what I did wrong?..................................I used my PBK mic by mistake.


John


----------



## studlygoorite

This is what I got when I used the correct mic.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is what I got when I used the correct mic.



Most of do something like this periodically







The sub still looked good









John


----------



## obie_fl

Nice work David. Getting rid of that 55hz peak seems to have helped. I really doubt you're missing much if any content from the rears. However if it still bothers you it is a great excuse to get some bigger rears.










Still looks like your subs are doing some kind of rolloff. That just looks like too much of a perfect slope to be the room.


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke* 
I get the best response when the subs are exactly middle in my room. In this case, they may as well become foot rests








Now that's funny









John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20053651
> 
> 
> It really does look like something is making those roll off fast. I wonder if the subs have some kind of built-in upper limiter. Kind of weird but you never know. Another long shot but have you ever just measured one sub at a time? I doubt it is cancellation but again you never know. If you could somehow tame that peak at 55 I bet ARC could get you flat to at least 80hz. You really aren't in that bad of shape you just need capable mains.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20057697
> 
> 
> Nice work David. Getting rid of that 55hz peak seems to have helped. I really doubt you're missing much if any content from the rears. However if it still bothers you it is a great excuse to get some bigger rears.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still looks like your subs are doing some kind of rolloff. That just looks like too much of a perfect slope to be the room.






Obie:


I calibrated my system one sub at a time and phase match the 2 subs before I phase matched the pair to the mains. As for the sub having internal limiters that i'm not aware of, who can tell I wish a had a schematic of my subs or knew someone who mods subwoofers










Yeah, i know my mains(ribbons) are weak in the low end but what to do? I'm torn by the mains I have in that they have ribbon tweeters and two side-firing woofers createing a grand and diffuse front sonic image which i like a lot







.


Oh well, i just have to shut up and just enjoy the music







.


----------



## obie_fl

David - Like I said those are pretty awesome charts at this point I know I'd be happy with those. Just for the the sake of discussion I do have a question or two. You are running PBK on the subs before ARC right? Have you done a ARC quick measure on just one sub with PBK turned off? I'm still wondering about your quick drop off on the high end.


Also regarding phase sometimes the phase control only does so much because it is centered around the crossover frequency. When I bring my third subwoofer into the mix I get severe cancellation. No amount of adjusting the phase makes it go away. I have to change the polarity on the third sub in order to correct the cancellation. Not saying you have this but it something to look at when you are bored.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20061191
> 
> 
> David - Like I said those are pretty awesome charts at this point I know I'd be happy with those. Just for the the sake of discussion I do have a question or two. You are running PBK on the subs before ARC right? Have you done a ARC quick measure on just one sub *with PBK turned off?* I'm still wondering about your quick drop off on the high end.
> 
> 
> Also regarding phase sometimes the phase control only does so much because it is centered around the crossover frequency. When I bring my third subwoofer into the mix I get severe cancellation. No amount of adjusting the phase makes it go away. I have to change the polarity on the third sub in order to correct the cancellation. Not saying you have this but it something to look at when you are bored.



How do you turn PBK off?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> How do you turn PBK off?



You can delete it using the PBK program. It just erases your previous upload.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20061191
> 
> 
> David - Like I said those are pretty awesome charts at this point I know I'd be happy with those. Just for the the sake of discussion I do have a question or two. You are running PBK on the subs before ARC right? Have you done a ARC quick measure on just one sub with PBK turned off? I'm still wondering about your quick drop off on the high end.
> 
> 
> Also regarding phase sometimes the phase control only does so much because it is centered around the crossover frequency. When I bring my third subwoofer into the mix I get severe cancellation. No amount of adjusting the phase makes it go away. I have to change the polarity on the third sub in order to correct the cancellation. Not saying you have this but it something to look at when you are bored.



No PBK here ... just my hard work moving my heavy subs around my living room apartment. The high-end roll off, i believe is either microphone specific or ARC version specific. Back in the day (early last year), my response went all the way to 20KHz. With newer versions of ARC, the response fell off at the high-end though I don't hear anything different. Many others here experienced the same thing. We were told by Bob P not to worry about it for he believes readings above 15kHz are erroneous







.


Odd numbered subwoofers are not recommended in any HT set up for the reasons you gave. I few posts back, I posted a paper written by Harmon Kardon on Subwoofer Placement Optimization that said the same thing, that odd numbered subs aren't recommeded, just even numbered. So i guess you have the excuse of getting a 4th sub







.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20061957
> 
> 
> You can delete it using the PBK program. It just erases your previous upload.
> 
> John




Thanks Jayray.


----------



## dmusoke

 http://www.harman.com/EN-US/OurCompa...s/multsubs.pdf 


Just wanted to let folks know about this seminal and definitive paper by Todd Welti of Harman Kardon on the best placement of multiple subs in a room. Check out sub configutations # 6 (dual subs), 10,11 and 12 (4 subs) on pages 19 and 20







.


----------



## p.las

Hello .

How Manu of you are using these THX mode for movies. Especiely the re-EQ that shout roll off the treble to compensate the bright Cinema mix. Ore is it only for old movies?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20065643
> 
> 
> Hello .
> 
> How Manu of you are using these THX mode for movies. Especiely the re-EQ that shout roll off the treble to compensate the bright Cinema mix. Ore is it only for old movies?



Once ARC is on there is no need for THX processing. You have something better









John


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20066231
> 
> 
> Once ARC is on there is no need for THX processing. You have something better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



But the ARC does not made Any roll off in the treble, like re-EQ does.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> But the ARC does not made Any roll off in the treble, like re-EQ does.



Most movies on disc and in broadcast, even older movies, have ALREADY been re-equalized for home theater. So leave that portion of the THX post processing OFF as your default.


If you sense a movie is a little "bright" or "hissy", then it may not be re-equalized and so try turning on THX Re-Equalization to see. You can do that on the fly by pressing the THX button twice and then using Up or Down Arrow. Note that THX Re-Equalization ON/OFF is settable independent of the rest of the THX stuff (which you likely will NOT find a need to use after getting ARC going). Check it on a per Source and per type of audio input format basis.


Also note that movies older than the 50s, particularly 4:3 movies, used a much more aggressive treble boost called Academy Equalization. If your movie has that olde-timey brassy hissy sound, and the sound track is mono or stereo, then you should try Mono-Academy audio mode to correct that. THX post processing must be OFF to enable Mono-Academy.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20066432
> 
> 
> Most movies on disc and in broadcast, even older movies, have ALREADY been re-equalized for home theater. So leave that portion of the THX post processing OFF as your default.
> 
> 
> If you sense a movie is a little "bright" or "hissy", then it may not be re-equalized and so try turning on THX Re-Equalization to see. You can do that on the fly by pressing the THX button twice and then using Up or Down Arrow. Note that THX Re-Equalization ON/OFF is settable independent of the rest of the THX stuff (which you likely will NOT find a need to use after getting ARC going). Check it on a per Source and per type of audio input format basis.
> 
> 
> Also note that movies older than the 50s, particularly 4:3 movies, used a much more aggressive treble boost called Academy Equalization. If your movie has that olde-timey brassy hissy sound, and the sound track is mono or stereo, then you should try Mono-Academy audio mode to correct that. THX post processing must be OFF to enable Mono-Academy.
> 
> --Bob



Welcome back









John


----------



## TJG55

dmusoke,


Thanks for your excellent recommendations on sub phasing. Have used your null method several times now in-store and it makes a significant improvement!

Just finished a client's system (D-2v, P-5,P-2, 3 Sig C-5 and 4 ADP-3, Sub-25). Yes, it is a nice one, but was having problems finding the nulls when phasing, even after trying several test tones in xover region.

We later found that matching the levels between the front and sub made all the difference! After that,it was easy.

Just thought this might help someone else getting inconclusive results. Can't wait to get to mine at home!


Tom


P.S. Kudos to Jayray for "flat" info and other great tips.

Could someone post this info over on MRX thread?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/20066918
> 
> 
> dmusoke,
> 
> 
> Thanks for your excellent recommendations on sub phasing. Have used your null method several times now in-store and it makes a significant improvement!
> 
> Just finished a client's system (D-2v, P-5,P-2, 3 Sig C-5 and 4 ADP-3, Sub-25). Yes, it is a nice one, but was having problems finding the nulls when phasing, even after trying several test tones in xover region.
> 
> We later found that matching the levels between the front and sub made all the difference! After that,it was easy.
> 
> Just thought this might help someone else getting inconclusive results. Can't wait to get to mine at home!
> 
> 
> Tom
> 
> 
> P.S. Kudos to Jayray for "flat" info and other great tips.
> 
> Could someone post this info over on MRX thread?



Thanks Tom, I think I have suggested most of my tips for the guys in the MRX thread but they may be spread over the 70 odd pages.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20065468
> 
> http://www.harman.com/EN-US/OurCompa...s/multsubs.pdf
> 
> 
> Just wanted to let folks know about this seminal and definitive paper by Todd Welti of Harman Kardon on the best placement of multiple subs in a room. Check out sub configutations # 6 (dual subs), 10,11 and 12 (4 subs) on pages 19 and 20
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Thanks for posting this. It is a good read.


Jayray would certainly agree that a center wall speaker placement beats a corner placement! (Although in his case we think that has to do with the way the Servo works on the Paradigm sub.)

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Jayray

Sorry for the lack of clarity, I meant the level matching fix. I have followed all your other tips and suggestions here and over there. Great work! Bob seems to have spawned!

BTW, did you know Anthem is using your charts and info to assist its dealers,(Performance tips from the Field)?

In over 38 years, don't think I have ever seen another company send out this kind of useful info to help its dalers and in the end....the client!

Gotta Love Anthem!

TJG


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20066432
> 
> 
> Most movies on disc and in broadcast, even older movies, have ALREADY been re-equalized for home theater. So leave that portion of the THX post processing OFF as your default.
> 
> 
> If you sense a movie is a little "bright" or "hissy", then it may not be re-equalized and so try turning on THX Re-Equalization to see. You can do that on the fly by pressing the THX button twice and then using Up or Down Arrow. Note that THX Re-Equalization ON/OFF is settable independent of the rest of the THX stuff (which you likely will NOT find a need to use after getting ARC going). Check it on a per Source and per type of audio input format basis.
> 
> 
> Also note that movies older than the 50s, particularly 4:3 movies, used a much more aggressive treble boost called Academy Equalization. If your movie has that olde-timey brassy hissy sound, and the sound track is mono or stereo, then you should try Mono-Academy audio mode to correct that. THX post processing must be OFF to enable Mono-Academy.
> 
> --Bob



Thank.

I Think the dialog is the first thing to become Bright/harsh. It's "right in you face" from -20db or so. Especialy if its DTS Master. Eks Avatar.....Will tear you ears apart from -10bdb , and the dialog is better than moust. My speakers is M&K s150 .


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20066966
> 
> 
> Thanks for posting this. It is a good read.
> 
> 
> Jayray would certainly agree that a center wall speaker placement beats a corner placement! (Although in his case we think that has to do with the way the Servo works on the Paradigm sub.)
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I don't have the servo any more, it is now a sub 25 which worked best in the servo's spot so it isn't just for servos.









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thank.
> 
> I Think the dialog is the first thing to become Bright/harsh. It's "right in you face" from -20db or so. Especialy if its DTS Master. Eks Avatar.....Will tear you ears apart from -10bdb , and the dialog is better than moust. My speakers is M&K s150 .



Well don't confuse problems (artistic intent?) in the content mix with the need to re-equalize.


Also, consider carefully your choice of speaker and amp for Center. You could be clipping Center or its amp at higher volumes. Often the demands put on Center exceed those put on LF/RF.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I don't have the servo any more, it is now a sub 25 which worked best in the servo's spot so it isn't just for servos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Perhaps you've broken in your room.









--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/20067012
> 
> 
> Jayray
> 
> Sorry for the lack of clarity, I meant the level matching fix. I have followed all your other tips and suggestions here and over there. Great work! Bob seems to have spawned!
> 
> BTW, did you know Anthem is using your charts and info to assist its dealers,(Performance tips from the Field)?
> 
> In over 38 years, don't think I have ever seen another company send out this kind of useful info to help its dalers and in the end....the client!
> 
> Gotta Love Anthem!
> 
> TJG



Tom,

that's very kind and very high praise. I was aware that my charts were being used as Nick asked me if it was ok. There are lots of charts, now in the jayray sub hall of fame, which could be used









John


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20055867
> 
> 
> There is a sequence for initial power-up that seems to help:
> 
> Display > Anthem > Source.
> 
> 
> If you have a universal remote you should be able to set this up--you may need to add a time delay between the power on commands.
> 
> 
> Also make sure that you have 'auto digital' turned to 'off' in the Anthem source set-up that you have assigned the roku to.
> 
> Make sure any CEC settings are turned off in the display and roku.
> 
> 
> If the roku does not send out 1080p and/or lossless audio (and I don't think they do yet) then connecting by component for video and coax or toslink for audio should send out up to 1080i and DD 5.1. This is a work around, and means more cables, but usually works if nothing else helps.
> 
> 
> Which Anthem are you using?? I ask because for there are test firmwares available for some models. I have a D2 and use the v1.47f and the handshakes are greatly improved.
> 
> 
> Please contact Anthem tech. They can advise you if there is a test firmware that might help you, or make other suggestions. You should also let them know about problems so that they can make fixes in future firmware releases.
> 
> 
> Tom



Wow, thanks for the detailed response! I will try each of these approaches!


Mike


----------



## TJG55

Got some great sub charts today....70 down flat as a ruler.

tjg


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20067160
> 
> 
> Well don't confuse problems (artistic intent?) in the content mix with the need to re-equalize.
> 
> 
> Also, consider carefully your choice of speaker and amp for Center. You could be clipping Center or its amp at higher volumes. Often the demands put on Center exceed those put on LF/RF.
> 
> --Bob



My AMP is a 7-channel Lexicon gx-7. The Sound is very cleen From the center. But it become very loud allready at -15-17db. That was not the case whit my old Lexicon pre-AMP. But the Sound from my avm is much better than from the Lex. The Anthem is brighter, but more smooth than the Lex. Maby i shout try to replace my Audioquest rocket 88 , for a more neutral cable. My system is very sensitiv .


----------



## buckley44

the manual says to use a 3.5mm mono cable for a trigger to my amps, will a stereo cable work i need 2 50'cables but can only find them in stereo,


----------



## Warpdrv

You can use any 2 conductor wire (lamp chord will work) and crimp / solder a mono plug on it. Radio shack has those in stock - 18" long I think they are, just splice them in.


----------



## buckley44




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv* /forum/post/20067377
> 
> 
> You can use any 2 conductor wire (lamp chord will work) and crimp / solder a mono plug on it. Radio shack has those in stock - 18" long I think they are, just splice them in.



it can be a 2 conductor speaker cable then? will a cat 5 cable work?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buckley44* /forum/post/20067355
> 
> 
> the manual says to use a 3.5mm mono cable for a trigger to my amps, will a stereo cable work i need 2 50'cables but can only find them in stereo,



No you need a mono plug.


You don't need anything fancy for the trigger cable. Get a short, mono-mono cable from Radio Shack. Cut it in half, which gives you two loose plug ends. Strip the cut ends to expose two bare wires. Extend it as long as you need with any sort of cheap, two wire cable. Emphasis on cheap. Use the traditional twist on caps (look like little, plastic thimbles) to connect the pair of wires from the cut ends of the mono-mono cables to the ends of your longer wire. You can get 4 twist on caps and the longer wire at Radio Shack as well.


The cable either has DC 12 Volts on it or nothing. You definitely don't need shielded cable or anything heavy gauge or expensive.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/20067229
> 
> 
> Got some great sub charts today....70 down flat as a ruler.
> 
> tjg



Isn't it amazing the Gods let us get away with such perfection?

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

indeed!


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20067484
> 
> 
> Isn't it amazing the Gods let us get away with such perfection?
> 
> --Bob



I can't agree more. However, mine came with a lot of experiment, great advice from you, jayray, and some others. Also, Anthem putting out great products also helped.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/20066918
> 
> 
> dmusoke,
> 
> 
> Thanks for your excellent recommendations on sub phasing. Have used your null method several times now in-store and it makes a significant improvement!
> 
> Just finished a client's system (D-2v, P-5,P-2, 3 Sig C-5 and 4 ADP-3, Sub-25). Yes, it is a nice one, but was having problems finding the nulls when phasing, even after trying several test tones in xover region.
> 
> We later found that matching the levels between the front and sub made all the difference! After that,it was easy.
> 
> Just thought this might help someone else getting inconclusive results. Can't wait to get to mine at home!
> 
> 
> Tom
> 
> 
> P.S. Kudos to Jayray for "flat" info and other great tips.
> 
> Could someone post this info over on MRX thread?




You are welcome indeed Tom and glad to have been of help in this area. Bur credit goes to another poster who came up with this method and i simply became the evangelist for this method after I implemented it in my setup and heard the results. The seamless integration between the mains and subs is amazing to me. I have 2 subs on my right wall, one on either side of a long couch. But when i listen to material with deep bass and/or LFE, i can't localize the subs at all even though I know they are to my right. Bass seems to come from everywhere(front, back, and sides) even when i move about the room







. Well worth the effort indeed!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20066966
> 
> 
> Thanks for posting this. It is a good read.
> 
> 
> Jayray would certainly agree that a center wall speaker placement beats a corner placement! (Although in his case we think that has to do with the way the Servo works on the Paradigm sub.)
> 
> --Bob



Welcome back Bob







! We missed you here indeed.


Yeah, i got this article a year ago when i still had one sub. It was due to this article that i got a second sub, after seeing the technical rationale for a second sub. These subs really pressurize my small one bedroom apartment really well and they are not boomy at all, not in the slightest. I'm glad I now have a tolerant upstairs neighbor whose version of 'playing' LFE content is dropping heavy dumb bells really hard on his floor in the day and in the night. Friday nights are 'drop-your-dumb-bells-all-night-fests'







. Oh well, we all have our vices i guess







.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/20067229
> 
> 
> Got some great sub charts today....70 down flat as a ruler.
> 
> tjg



Tom,

Hall of fame worthy









John


----------



## Screamingelvises

Hi everyone,

I have a b&k ref50 now. Went to the dealer to audition a marantz av7005, but also compared to anthem av50v (thinking the anthem would be audio benchmark with similar 2 channel performance to what I have) The marantz and the athem seemed close for movie performance but the anthem destroyed the marantz in 2 channel and sacd performance, much closer or better than my b&k. This confirmed that the marantz may not work ( I guess I was hoping the marantz was a real overachiever! Some marantz users think I need to go back and listen to pure direct and others claim the unit needed more hours if use bc it was almost right out of the box with a couple hours of use)


Here are some questions that you may help me decide to take the plunge on the avm 50v


1. Dealer stated that hdmi 1.4 a - 3d is in the works and anthem will provide the upgrade free by june. Is this bs? Will anthem likely add this to the 50v or will they likely launch a new model or charge $1000ish for the upgrade? I know 3d may or may not last but if I am shelling out this much cash all the features are important. I already have a 3d tv on another system with a 3d player and hi receiver that allows 3d (plus 3 ps3s that do 3d)


2. I heard a lot of clicks and pops when changing/starting new material. Is this common? My b&k does it but not nearly as much. Marantz didn't do it at all.


3. When demoing the the 2nd movie, 2nd disc from Lord of The Rings at the point when the elf kills the the ork scout as they are being attacked while traveling to helms deep the orks scream was all high with no arrrgh or bass to it ( the marantz, my b&k and3 hi receivers all have a deeper scream when listening to that clip). Could this be from the arc setup? Is it something else?


4. How difficult is it to run and understand arc and get the best out of it? My room set up has been slp meter, tape measure or let the sub eq or receiver and mic handle it.


5. How frequent and widespread are the hdmi handshake issues? I can deal with a few but don't want it to be a daily occurrence. Device turn on

sequences are annoying but ok. Constant shutoffs and re-plugs ins won't be acceptable.

6. How do you handle iTunes / iPod to play music?


7. Is the an iPad / iPod app to allow it to act as a controller/remote?


8. I understand this is a tweaking thread but can this unit be set up and pretty much be forgotten? Or are do you constantly need to tweak it?


8. Has anyone come from a b&k ref20/30/50 to these units? What's your thoughts? I read several months worth of posts but couldn't read everything!



Thanks in advance for your thoughts and comments!


Mark


----------



## buckley44

Quote:

Originally Posted by *bob pariseau* 
no you need a mono plug.


You don't need anything fancy for the trigger cable. Get a short, mono-mono cable from radio shack. Cut it in half, which gives you two loose plug ends. Strip the cut ends to expose two bare wires. Extend it as long as you need with any sort of cheap, two wire cable. Emphasis on cheap. Use the traditional twist on caps (look like little, plastic thimbles) to connect the pair of wires from the cut ends of the mono-mono cables to the ends of your longer wire. You can get 4 twist on caps and the longer wire at radio shack as well.


The cable either has dc 12 volts on it or nothing. You definitely don't need shielded cable or anything heavy gauge or expensive.

--bob
thank you bob for your help.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Screamingelvises* /forum/post/20069276
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I have a b&k ref50 now. Went to the dealer to audition a marantz av7005, but also compared to anthem av50v (thinking the anthem would be audio benchmark with similar 2 channel performance to what I have) The marantz and the athem seemed close for movie performance but the anthem destroyed the marantz in 2 channel and sacd performance, much closer or better than my b&k. This confirmed that the marantz may not work ( I guess I was hoping the marantz was a real overachiever! Some marantz users think I need to go back and listen to pure direct and others claim the unit needed more hours if use bc it was almost right out of the box with a couple hours of use)
> 
> 
> Here are some questions that you may help me decide to take the plunge on the avm 50v
> 
> 
> 1. Dealer stated that hdmi 1.4 a - 3d is in the works and anthem will provide the upgrade free by june. Is this bs? Will anthem likely add this to the 50v or will they likely launch a new model or charge $1000ish for the upgrade? I know 3d may or may not last but if I am shelling out this much cash all the features are important. I already have a 3d tv on another system with a 3d player and hi receiver that allows 3d (plus 3 ps3s that do 3d)
> 
> 
> 2. I heard a lot of clicks and pops when changing/starting new material. Is this common? My b&k does it but not nearly as much. Marantz didn't do it at all.
> 
> 
> 3. When demoing the the 2nd movie, 2nd disc from Lord of The Rings at the point when the elf kills the the ork scout as they are being attacked while traveling to helms deep the orks scream was all high with no arrrgh or bass to it ( the marantz, my b&k and3 hi receivers all have a deeper scream when listening to that clip). Could this be from the arc setup? Is it something else?
> 
> 
> 4. How difficult is it to run and understand arc and get the best out of it? My room set up has been slp meter, tape measure or let the sub eq or receiver and mic handle it.
> 
> 
> 5. How frequent and widespread are the hdmi handshake issues? I can deal with a few but don't want it to be a daily occurrence. Device turn on
> 
> sequences are annoying but ok. Constant shutoffs and re-plugs ins won't be acceptable.
> 
> 6. How do you handle iTunes / iPod to play music?
> 
> 
> 7. Is the an iPad / iPod app to allow it to act as a controller/remote?
> 
> 
> 8. I understand this is a tweaking thread but can this unit be set up and pretty much be forgotten? Or are do you constantly need to tweak it?
> 
> 
> 8. Has anyone come from a b&k ref20/30/50 to these units? What's your thoughts? I read several months worth of posts but couldn't read everything!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for your thoughts and comments!
> 
> 
> Mark



I can assure you that warming it up won't make it sound like the AVM50v. This model has full blown ARC and many of the benefits of the D2v. As such, it will outperform the Maranatz with music but also with movies once you set it up in your room with ARC and that I have no doubt about. I get in trouble in threads that support Audyssey but one needs only google ARC reviews for the D2v, AVM50v and now in the MRX receivers from Anthem. They are getting great reviews, so you even have more options if money is the issue. Grab an MRX and use a 3 channel external amp if you have a large room.

Dealer auditions will allow you to know how it will sound in your room. ARC is not hard to use and remember, once it is setup properly, it's hard to beat. Handshakes occur with many components using HDMI and the AVM50v and D2v don't have a lot of issues with this. Firmware updates come out on a regular basis to address such things.

Lots of help on this thread for setup of ARC and how to tweak to get the best sound. Just look at how many pages there are









John


----------



## m4bama

Anyone know whwn 1.4 HDMI is going to be in the D2v.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m4bama* /forum/post/20071048
> 
> 
> Anyone know whwn 1.4 HDMI is going to be in the D2v.



Sometime in the spring and btw, it is not going to be free which someone posted, more likely around $500. This will be a daughter board switch, so only 4 outputs can be changed.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20071278
> 
> 
> Sometime in the spring and btw, it is not going to be free which someone posted, more likely around $500. This will be a daughter board switch, so only 4 outputs can be changed.
> 
> John



SPRING is only 3 weeks away = When can we put our Pre-Order In/


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> SPRING is only 3 weeks away = When can we put our Pre-Order In/



I would bet my youngest daughter, you won't be ordering this upgrade









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20071322
> 
> 
> I would bet my youngest daughter, you won't be ordering this upgrade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Smarty Pants


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Smarty Pants



My wife said I was being mean.









John


----------



## Screamingelvises

Hi Jayray.

Thanks for the insight. Your comment ordering the 1.4a upgrade is based on an inside joke? The fact you don't like 3d or based on Anthem not providing the option?


I had also considered buying an MRX receiver, the dealer talked me out of it stating separates would be better, plus I like the dual hdmi output, dual subwoofer options and I think music will sound better (I hope).


I have a ref200.5 running my speakers, plus several unused amps in the basement so the amp section is not important.




Thanks again,

Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Screamingelvises* /forum/post/20071415
> 
> 
> Your comment ordering the 1.4a upgrade is based on an inside joke?



DRHANKZ owns a D2, not a D2v. Ordering a D2v HDMI V1.4 upgrade (when available) would require him to come up with even more cash (when available).

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Screamingelvises* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Jayray.
> 
> Thanks for the insight. Your comment ordering the 1.4a upgrade is based on an inside joke? The fact you don't like 3d or based on Anthem not providing the option?
> 
> 
> I had also considered buying an MRX receiver, the dealer talked me out of it stating separates would be better, plus I like the dual hdmi output, dual subwoofer options and I think music will sound better (I hope).
> 
> 
> I have a ref200.5 running my speakers, plus several unused amps in the basement so the amp section is not important.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Mark



The upgrade will be available, exactly when, anyone's guess but spring is what we've been told. If tight for cash, the MRXs can be used as pre/pros and give you ARC as well. The amp section in the MRXs is excellent. Just google MRX receivers and read the great reviews they're getting.


John


----------



## Pixiu

Anyone know why I cannot download ARC 3.01 from the Anthem site? I keep getting the following message "The document is being edited/updated by a user and is unavailable at this moment".


----------



## ensmarcum

Does anyone know if the D2 can be used with DTS HD and Dolby TrueHD, without upgrading to the D2v? I'd like to buy a D2 with a P5, but just worried that the codecs wont be supported. Bob, little help here!!


Thanks,


Droopy


----------



## Shrike645

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* 
Does anyone know if the D2 can be used with DTS HD and Dolby TrueHD, without upgrading to the D2v? I'd like to buy a D2 with a P5, but just worried that the codecs wont be supported. Bob, little help here!!


Thanks,


Droopy
If you have the player decode them and pass them to the D2 as PCM it works just fine.


----------



## ensmarcum

Ah, so I have a PS3 and a Directv HD DVR box, I should be ok correct?


Droopy


----------



## Shrike645

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Pixiu* 
Anyone know why I cannot download ARC 3.01 from the Anthem site? I keep getting the following message "The document is being edited/updated by a user and is unavailable at this moment".
This was mentioned a while back and other links were working. I forgot what it is but if you trying from the D2v link try from the receivers link or the D2. ARC is all the same.


----------



## Shrike645

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* 
Ah, so I have a PS3 and a Directv HD DVR box, I should be ok correct?


Droopy
Yes the PS3 will work fine. I don't think you will get those codecs from the DVR.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ensmarcum* /forum/post/20072997
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if the D2 can be used with DTS HD and Dolby TrueHD, without upgrading to the D2v? I'd like to buy a D2 with a P5, but just worried that the codecs wont be supported. Bob, little help here!!
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Droopy



As stated, if the player decodes to HDMI LPCM (and yes the PS3 does that), then you are good to go UP TO the limits of the D2. The D2 doesn't need to know anything about the original track format.


The D2 can accept HDMI LPCM input up to 5.1 channels at 96 KHz. (The D2v can accept up to 7.1 channels at 192KHz.)


If you play a 7.1 track into the D2, the decoding player will automatically down-mix the track to 5.1 so you won't lose any rear speaker info -- Rears get mixed into the Sides. The D2 can take 5.1 input and produce rear speaker output using, for example PLIIx surround mode. So you can drive a 7.1 speaker system from the D2. The down-mix to 5.1 and recovery to 7.1 is not perfect, but it is quite close.


The 192KHz sampling rate won't be found on movie discs. It can be found on some high-end music discs. If those are encoded formats, the player will decode them at only 96KHz for the D2.

--Bob


----------



## ensmarcum

Awesome Bob, thanks for the info!! Shrike, thanks for the quick reply.


Droopy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pixiu* /forum/post/20072882
> 
> 
> Anyone know why I cannot download ARC 3.01 from the Anthem site? I keep getting the following message "The document is being edited/updated by a user and is unavailable at this moment".



They've had some web site problems in the recent past that screwed up access. This looks like another such case.


The ARC 3.0.1 kit is the same across the board, so if you can download it from, say, the AVM-50v download area, you've got the same thing. Otherwise you'll need to wait and call Anthem tomorrow to give them a nudge.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20073235
> 
> 
> They've had some web site problems in the recent past that screwed up access. This looks like another such case.
> 
> 
> The ARC 3.0.1 kit is the same across the board, so if you can download it from, say, the AVM-50v download area, you've got the same thing. Otherwise you'll need to wait and call Anthem tomorrow to give them a nudge.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

You scared everyone away









John


----------



## m4bama

i appreciate the info


i was trying to wait and purchase one with 1.4 HDMI already in it


----------



## Kensmith48

Thought I'd try adjusting my 2 Def. Tech. Reference subs using ARC "flat". I can't seem to find any info on how to use the flat selection. Does it work with Quick Measure or do I have to run a new arc measurement? I think it's somewhere under Advanced but I'm not sure how to use it.

Update: I found it under the Advanced, but it looks like I'll have to change it from auto to flat. There's 2 boxes below that say 20hz. but I can't change them to go any lower. I have a high pass xover on the back of the subs that goes from 40 to 150. Do I change this setting? I have it at 150hz.


Ken


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> Thought I'd try adjusting my 2 Def. Tech. Reference subs using ARC "flat". I can't seem to find any info on how to use the flat selection. Does it work with Quick Measure or do I have to run a new arc measurement? I think it's somewhere under Advanced but I'm not sure how to use it. Is it only used for the sub or for all the speakers? Any info appreciated.
> 
> 
> Ken



Ken,

It's in the advanced menu and only applies to the sub. Just change it to sub high pass, "FLAT". Then recalculate and upload it depending on how your chart looks after the recalculation. You might want to post your present chart to see if flat is even an option.

John


----------



## Kensmith48

I ran ARC again and the only difference I can see between flat & auto is 3db increase with flat. There is an arc that goes from 78db to 300mz. with flat and with auto the arc goes from 75db to 300hz.


Ken


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/20087955
> 
> 
> I ran ARC again and the only difference I can see between flat & auto is 3db increase with flat. There is an arc that goes from 78db to 300mz. with flat and with auto the arc goes from 75db to 300hz.
> 
> 
> Ken



can you post your chart?

John


----------



## Kensmith48

 Attachment 203863 

Attachment 203864 

Attachment 203865 


It took awhile to figure out how to post my charts. As I stated the only difference with the sub is auto starts at 75db and the flat starts at 78db.


Ken


----------



## Kensmith48

 Attachment 203875 


Here's the graph where the flat setting is used that starts at 78db.


Ken


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the graph where the flat setting is used that starts at 78db.
> 
> 
> Ken



Your curve is down approx. 8dB at 100 Hz. This reduces some of the impact. Moving sub could help and this would make the measured curve rise in that freq. range. The cutoff would likely change to around 120 Hz. You could use ARCs quick measure to do this. If you don't have any other spots please disregard my suggestions







your flat setting looks very good and flat. If you solve the upper freq. issue the Hall of Fame is in sight









John


----------



## Kensmith48

If you're talking about the 8db drop at 100hz. in the front speakers that's because of the built in xover frequency of the Def. Tech. towers. Believe me I've tried everything to change it.

I used the Quick measure to find the best location for the 2 subs, although it's not perfect it's the best I could find. They are both located on the front stage on either side of the center and approx. 18" from each front speaker.


Ken


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/20089606
> 
> 
> If you're talking about the 8db drop at 100hz. in the front speakers that's because of the built in xover frequency of the Def. Tech. towers. Believe me I've tried everything to change it.
> 
> I used the Quick measure to find the best location for the 2 subs, although it's not perfect it's the best I could find. They are both located on the front stage on either side of the center and approx. 18" from each front speaker.
> 
> 
> Ken



Ken:


Have you phase matched your sibs against each other and the pair against the mains? This will give you better frequency response and integration between mains and subs.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you're talking about the 8db drop at 100hz. in the front speakers that's because of the built in xover frequency of the Def. Tech. towers. Believe me I've tried everything to change it.
> 
> I used the Quick measure to find the best location for the 2 subs, although it's not perfect it's the best I could find. They are both located on the front stage on either side of the center and approx. 18" from each front speaker.
> 
> 
> Ken



Pics?

John


----------



## Kensmith48

 Attachment 203939 


Here's a picture. Taken with a wide angle lens. There's 3 seats on a riser in the rear also.


Yes, I matched the phase between the FL and the subs, they are both set to 0. I also used Velodyne SMS-1 to find the best location as well as ARC.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture. Taken with a wide angle lens. There's 3 seats on a riser in the rear also.
> 
> 
> Yes, I matched the phase between the FL and the subs, they are both set to 0. I also used Velodyne SMS-1 to find the best location as well as ARC.



I meant of your charts with the new sub positions







Room looks very nice though.

John


----------



## Kensmith48

I don't have any new sub positions. The charts that I posted are with the subs in the best place I found (on the front stage) as the pic indictates.


Ken


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/20089606
> 
> 
> If you're talking about the 8db drop at 100hz. in the front speakers that's because of the built in xover frequency of the Def. Tech. towers. Believe me I've tried everything to change it.
> 
> I used the Quick measure to find the best location for the 2 subs, although it's not perfect it's the best I could find. They are both located on the front stage on either side of the center and approx. 18" from each front speaker.
> 
> 
> Ken



It was the drop in the sub not the mains. How does the LFE sound or feel? We can look at charts all day but how does it sound to you?

John


----------



## Kensmith48

 Attachment 203981 

Attachment 203982 

Attachment 203983 


I spent approx. 3hrs. repositioning the towers. I also adjusted the level & freq. knobs on the back of the towers. I tried different locations with the subs but I ended putting them back where they originally were. I used the flat setting for the subs.

I think the charts look better but I still haven't listened. I just finished uploading and thought I'd post the results. I'll be back after I have a demo.


Ken


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/20092881
> 
> Attachment 203981
> 
> Attachment 203982
> 
> Attachment 203983
> 
> 
> I spent approx. 3hrs. repositioning the towers. I also adjusted the level & freq. knobs on the back of the towers. I tried different locations with the subs but I ended putting them back where they originally were. I used the flat setting for the subs.
> 
> I think the charts look better but I still haven't listened. I just finished uploading and thought I'd post the results. I'll be back after I have a demo.
> 
> 
> Ken



your sub does look better and other speakers look pretty good as well. You should get some good low end now. Let us know.

John


----------



## Mike Lindsey

I know this has been answered many times, but I cannot seem to find it in this thread. Can someone please tell me how I need to set the Oppo when listening to TrueHD and DTS-HD material? Do I set the HDMI Audio on the Oppo to LPCM or Bitstream?


Can you also tell me what I need to set the D2 Mode Presets to? I'm a little confused, because when I select TrueHD or DTS-HD on the Oppo when playing back a title that offers those, I get all kinds of different formats displayed on the D2. Sometimes its PCM and sometimes it says Dolby D EX. Currently I have the following Mode Preset settings:


6.0: PLIIx Movie

2.0: AnthemLogic - Cin

2Sur: Same as 2.0

DD5: Dolby D EX

EX: THX Surround EX

DTS: Neo:6

ES: DTS-ES Matrix


I mostly listen to material on the Oppo that is either TrueHD, DTS-HD, DTS, DD 5.1, DTS-ES. When listening to TrueHD and DTS-HD do I need to set the HDMI Audio to LPCM, otherwise set it to Bitstream? Can someone clear this up for me?


Thanks in advance,

Mike


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know this has been answered many times, but I cannot seem to find it in this thread. Can someone please tell me how I need to set the Oppo when listening to TrueHD and DTS-HD material? Do I set the HDMI Audio on the Oppo to LPCM or Bitstream?
> 
> 
> Can you also tell me what I need to set the D2 Mode Presets to? I'm a little confused, because when I select TrueHD or DTS-HD on the Oppo when playing back a title that offers those, I get all kinds of different formats displayed on the D2. Sometimes its PCM and sometimes it says Dolby D EX. Currently I have the following Mode Preset settings:
> 
> 
> 6.0: PLIIx Movie
> 
> 2.0: AnthemLogic - Cin
> 
> 2Sur: Same as 2.0
> 
> DD5: Dolby D EX
> 
> EX: THX Surround EX
> 
> DTS: Neo:6
> 
> ES: DTS-ES Matrix
> 
> 
> I mostly listen to material on the Oppo that is either TrueHD, DTS-HD, DTS, DD 5.1, DTS-ES. When listening to TrueHD and DTS-HD do I need to set the HDMI Audio to LPCM, otherwise set it to Bitstream? Can someone clear this up for me?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Mike



Do you have a 5.1 or 7.1 setup?

John


----------



## Mike Lindsey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20096969
> 
> 
> Do you have a 5.1 or 7.1 setup?
> 
> John



It's a 5.1 setup.


----------



## mookie b

Does anyone passively biamp in their systems using the avm50v or d2v as their processor?


I see there are 2 center channel outputs, but don't see a way to assign anything to the fronts.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/20097298
> 
> 
> Does anyone passively biamp using the avm50v or d2v?



I wonder what passively biamp means


There are NO AMPS in the avm50v or D2v


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/20097068
> 
> 
> It's a 5.1 setup.



You need to set the Oppo for LPCM since the D2 can't decode the lossless codecs. When you are sending the 5.1 stream in LPCM the D2 shouldn't be doing any processing for a 5.1 system so I don't think it matters what audio modes you have set in the D2.


----------



## shn750

Hello All,


I've started archiving my CDs to digital files and in the process of ripping them to Apple lossless so that I can play them from my laptop in iTunes. I'm thinking about getting the Squeezbox but have a general question about playing lossless audio to my D2. If I want to use the DAC in the D2 instead of getting separate DAC, isn't it the same if I play the lossless audio from my laptop's headphone jack, which splits to left/right RCA into my auxiliary in the D2? I'm assuming that the D2 will then convert the file to digital using its built in DAC?


If this is correct, then why would I need the Squeezbox since the only advantage is presenting the file to a digital output, which would still be converted using the D2's DAC.


Given this scenario, would I need something like a squeezebox to get the best sound from lossless?


Thanks

Steve


----------



## Mike Lindsey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/20097507
> 
> 
> You need to set the Oppo for LPCM since the D2 can't decode the lossless codecs. When you are sending the 5.1 stream in LPCM the D2 shouldn't be doing any processing for a 5.1 system so I don't think it matters what audio modes you have set in the D2.



OK, thanks. So are you saying if the disc has a TrueHD or DTS-HD option on it, that I select LPCM on the Oppo HDMI Audio Setup menu, and then choose the TrueHD or DTS-HD option on the disc? When not playing one of those formats do I want to go with Bitstream so the D2 does the processing?


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/20097606
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> 
> I've started archiving my CDs to digital files and in the process of ripping them to Apple lossless so that I can play them from my laptop in iTunes. I'm thinking about getting the Squeezbox but have a general question about playing lossless audio to my D2. If I want to use the DAC in the D2 instead of getting separate DAC, isn't it the same if I play the lossless audio from my laptop's headphone jack, which splits to left/right RCA into my auxiliary in the D2? I'm assuming that the D2 will then convert the file to digital using its built in DAC?
> 
> 
> If this is correct, then why would I need the Squeezbox since the only advantage is presenting the file to a digital output, which would still be converted using the D2's DAC.
> 
> 
> Given this scenario, would I need something like a squeezebox to get the best sound from lossless?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve



Squeezebox has no output that the D2 would use.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/20097606
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> 
> I've started archiving my CDs to digital files and in the process of ripping them to Apple lossless so that I can play them from my laptop in iTunes. I'm thinking about getting the Squeezbox but have a general question about playing lossless audio to my D2. If I want to use the DAC in the D2 instead of getting separate DAC, isn't it the same if I play the lossless audio from my laptop's headphone jack, which splits to left/right RCA into my auxiliary in the D2? I'm assuming that the D2 will then convert the file to digital using its built in DAC?
> 
> 
> If this is correct, then why would I need the Squeezbox since the only advantage is presenting the file to a digital output, which would still be converted using the D2's DAC.
> 
> 
> Given this scenario, would I need something like a squeezebox to get the best sound from lossless?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve



The headphone jack form your laptop has already been converted to analogue so you aren't using the D2 DAC's. The D2 doesn't know anything about apply lossless so you need something that does a conversion in between like a convert to PCM.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/20097614
> 
> 
> OK, thanks. So are you saying if the disc has a TrueHD or DTS-HD option on it, that I select LPCM on the Oppo HDMI Audio Setup menu, and then choose the TrueHD or DTS-HD option on the disc? When not playing one of those formats do I want to go with Bitstream so the D2 does the processing?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



The Oppo should automatically select the high resolution sound (as long as you have secondary audio off) so you shouldn't have to select it.


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Squeezebox has no output that the D2 would use.



I hope I didnt misunderstand you drhankz, but the squeezebox should have a digital out, both spdif and optical, which could be used with the D2, in fact I have one connected to my D2v, via spdif. I have read somewhere that optical may not have the bandwidth to send 24/96 material, but I know spdif does. I would think you could even use the analog out of the sqz box into the anthem and use the ADC and apply your ARC settings, if you want.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/20097795
> 
> 
> I hope I didnt misunderstand you drhankz, but the squeezebox should have a digital out, both spdif and optical, which could be used with the D2, in fact I have one connected to my D2v, via spdif. I have read somewhere that optical may not have the bandwidth to send 24/96 material, but I know spdif does. I would think you could even use the analog out of the sqz box into the anthem and use the ADC and apply your ARC settings, if you want.



I did not see it when I went to the Logitech Website.


----------



## Mike Lindsey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/20097688
> 
> 
> The Oppo should automatically select the high resolution sound (as long as you have secondary audio off) so you shouldn't have to select it.



I have Secondary Audio off, but I am not selecting Auto. My HDMI Audio options are Auto, LPCM and Bitstream. I thought I read somewhere (maybe in the Oppo thread) that sometimes Auto doesn't get it right. To be honest I have never selected Auto. Do you have yours set to Auto?


Thanks again for all your help, by the way.


Mike


----------



## Ovation




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/20097659
> 
> 
> The headphone jack form your laptop has already been converted to analogue so you aren't using the D2 DAC's. The D2 doesn't know anything about apply lossless so you need something that does a conversion in between like a convert to PCM.



If it's a MacBook Pro, it will also send out a digital signal (mini-toslink adapter will get you access to it), so he can send a digital signal to the pre-pro. If it is not a MacBook Pro, it may or may not do so (depends on the make and model).


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have Secondary Audio off, but I am not selecting Auto. My HDMI Audio options are Auto, LPCM and Bitstream. I thought I read somewhere (maybe in the Oppo thread) that sometimes Auto doesn't get it right. To be honest I have never selected Auto. Do you have yours set to Auto?
> 
> 
> Thanks again for all your help, by the way.
> 
> 
> Mike



Let the Oppo do the decoding so select LPCM and leave it there.

John


----------



## Mike Lindsey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20098085
> 
> 
> Let the Oppo do the decoding so select LPCM and leave it there.
> 
> John



Always?


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *shn750* 
Hello All,


I've started archiving my CDs to digital files and in the process of ripping them to Apple lossless so that I can play them from my laptop in iTunes. I'm thinking about getting the Squeezbox but have a general question about playing lossless audio to my D2. If I want to use the DAC in the D2 instead of getting separate DAC, isn't it the same if I play the lossless audio from my laptop's headphone jack, which splits to left/right RCA into my auxiliary in the D2? I'm assuming that the D2 will then convert the file to digital using its built in DAC?


If this is correct, then why would I need the Squeezbox since the only advantage is presenting the file to a digital output, which would still be converted using the D2's DAC.


Given this scenario, would I need something like a squeezebox to get the best sound from lossless?


Thanks

Steve
The output from your laptop headphone jack is not good quality and is analog.

So you would not be using the D2 dac.

Everything you need to know can be found here 


Squeezebox Touch Plays most digital music formats

It supports just about any format you've got, including MP3, FLAC, WMA, WMA Lossless, AAC, Apple Lossless, WAV, and AIFF.

You would use it either wired or wireless and install the Squeezebox Server software on your computer,laptop or WHS or NAS server

Then connect the Touch digital out to the D2 and either use the Squeezebox internal DAC in Analog Direct or Analog DSP with ARC.

I have a Transporter and use it more than any other device for music listening.

If you have a LAN with internet your music sources are unlimited as well as downloading HiRez music files.


----------



## ninja12

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* 
Always?
Yes. The D2 cannot decode the new audio codecs; however, the Oppo can. So, select LPCM in the Oppo, and PCM will display on the D2 for True-HD and DTS-MA.


----------



## Mike Lindsey

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ninja12* 
Yes. The D2 cannot decode the new audio codecs; however, the Oppo can. So, select LPCM in the Oppo, and PCM will display on the D2 for True-HD and DTS-MA.
OK, thanks. I'm assuming by leaving it at LPCM it is going to decode all the other formats as well (DTS, DD 5.1, etc).


Mike


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* 
OK, thanks. I'm assuming by leaving it at LPCM it is going to decode all the other formats as well (DTS, DD 5.1, etc).


Mike
yes.

John


----------



## Mike Lindsey

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jayray* 
yes.

John
OK, thanks. Seems like a lot of money for a unit that only does video switching.










Actually, I have had the D2 for a couple of months and haven't used the ARC yet. I wanted to get familiar with the out of the box sound before installing. I think I'm ready for it now, and hope to do it over the next week or so. I've never used it so you might be getting a bunch more questions from me.










Mike


----------



## shn750

Quote:

Originally Posted by *thestewman* 
The output from your laptop headphone jack is not good quality and is analog.

So you would not be using the D2 dac.

Everything you need to know can be found here 


Squeezebox Touch Plays most digital music formats

It supports just about any format you've got, including MP3, FLAC, WMA, WMA Lossless, AAC, Apple Lossless, WAV, and AIFF.

You would use it either wired or wireless and install the Squeezebox Server software on your computer,laptop or WHS or NAS server

Then connect the Touch digital out to the D2 and either use the Squeezebox internal DAC in Analog Direct or Analog DSP with ARC.

I have a Transporter and use it more than any other device for music listening.

If you have a LAN with internet your music sources are unlimited as well as downloading HiRez music files.


Thanks for all the replies. I'm using a windows laptop so it seems that I will need to get a Squeezebox or something similar to get it to digital out.


Currently I do not have ARC with the D2 (that's next on my list). Given that there's no ARC, would it be better to use Analog Direct or Analog DSP for processing in the D2? Which DAC is better? The squeezebox or the D2?


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the replies. I'm using a windows laptop so it seems that I will need to get a Squeezebox or something similar to get it to digital out.
> 
> 
> Currently I do not have ARC with the D2 (that's next on my list). Given that there's no ARC, would it be better to use Analog Direct or Analog DSP for processing in the D2? Which DAC is better? The squeezebox or the D2?



The anthem's DACs will be better.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20097624
> 
> 
> Squeezebox has no output that the D2 would use.



Squeezebox is now a fairly large family of products. Most of them have both optical and coaxial digital outputs. A couple of the newer devices such as their Radio and Boom may not but I believe everything else including their discontinued devices such as the original Squeezeboxes all had digital outputs. I have two Squeezebox III's and two duet receivers they all have digital outputs.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/20097795
> 
> 
> I hope I didnt misunderstand you drhankz, but the squeezebox should have a digital out, both spdif and optical, which could be used with the D2, in fact I have one connected to my D2v, via spdif. I have read somewhere that optical may not have the bandwidth to send 24/96 material, but I know spdif does. I would think you could even use the analog out of the sqz box into the anthem and use the ADC and apply your ARC settings, if you want.



I have a difficult time understanding the good Dr at times myself.










Optical *is* S/PDIF


S/PDIF can be either optical or coaxial. S/PDIF is the protocol Optical or Coaxial is the physical layer. Both are functionally the same. S/PDIF does support two channel 24/96 but it is optional, in other words a lot of equipment doesn't support it.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/19497273
> 
> 
> Thanks TKO1 ... I've read about the theory of this but yet to see results in practice. As i told MBMF earlier, It'd be nice to compare results before and after the SubDude. Another vendor has yo place your sub on his 2 foot tall basstrap and others like Auralex(SubDude) only have a few inches off the floor. I hope theory follows practice in this case as I'm on the fence on this one...



Its been a while since this post was written, but if anyone is still interested, I have attatched ARC charts before and after putting an Auralex Gramma pad under my SVS SB13-Plus. The first attachment is before, and the second after the Auralex Gamma.


I'll let the experts on this thread analyze the charts, but to my eyes there are only minor differences that could easily be explained by human error like slightly different mic positions or sub position. I tried to match the sub position as closely as possible, and believe I was close, but the Gramma raises the sub 2.75'' off the floor so the position would be necessarily slightly different.


FWIW, I do think that the bass is tighter, especially on music, but it certainly can't be proved by the charts. The only thing it proves is my possible susceptibility to a placebo effect.


Tom


----------



## JimP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20099995
> 
> 
> Its been a while since this post was written, but if anyone is still interested, I have attatched ARC charts before and after putting an Auralex Gramma pad under my SVS SB13-Plus. The first attachment is before, and the second after the Auralex Gamma.
> 
> 
> I'll let the experts on this thread analyze the charts, but to my eyes there are only minor differences that could easily be explained by human error like slightly different mic positions or sub position. I tried to match the sub position as closely as possible, and believe I was close, but the Gramma raises the sub 2.75'' off the floor so the position would be necessarily slightly different.
> 
> 
> FWIW, I do think that the bass is tighter, especially on music, but it certainly can't be proved by the charts. The only thing it proves is my possible susceptibility to a placebo effect.
> 
> 
> Tom



I'm no expert but I do think that an elimination of vibration would show up in the time domain of a sub, not necessarily the frequency response. If anything, running before and afters using REW and run the waterfalls charts.


----------



## mookie b

I have three identical speakers as LCR, and have ran ARC a few times since I changed speakers (about 10 times before). Every time it's set an equal crossover for the front 3 of 60 hz, and 80 hz for my in wall surrounds.


I just reduced the toe in of my left and rights, and moved the tweeters to the inside as opposed to the outside of the left and right. Well, this last ARC set my crossover at 80 hz for the left and right, and 60 hz for the center and surrounds. It seems odd that the front 3 would have different crossovers this time. All 3 are in a cabinet underneath my screen.


My speakers are PSB CHS80s and sub is a JL F113.


Any thoughts? Sounds good, just curious if I did something wrong or need to run ARC again.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20099995
> 
> 
> Its been a while since this post was written, but if anyone is still interested, I have attatched ARC charts before and after putting an Auralex Gramma pad under my SVS SB13-Plus. The first attachment is before, and the second after the Auralex Gamma.
> 
> 
> I'll let the experts on this thread analyze the charts, but to my eyes there are only minor differences that could easily be explained by human error like slightly different mic positions or sub position. I tried to match the sub position as closely as possible, and believe I was close, but the Gramma raises the sub 2.75'' off the floor so the position would be necessarily slightly different.
> 
> 
> FWIW, I do think that the bass is tighter, especially on music, but it certainly can't be proved by the charts. The only thing it proves is my possible susceptibility to a placebo effect.
> 
> 
> Tom



Your graph really doesn't show any diff but putting on some familiar LFE heavy material might help to discern any changes.

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20101265
> 
> 
> Your graph really doesn't show any diff but putting on some familiar LFE heavy material might help to discern any changes.
> 
> John



Darn it!!

You mean I'll have to watch another one of those loud, obnoxious action films??

Hellboy? Dark Knight? Bourne? Avatar? Decisions,decisions...


I guess I can do it for the sake of scientific experimentation, if I have to.










Tom


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/20100195
> 
> 
> I'm no expert but I do think that an elimination of vibration would show up in the time domain of a sub, not necessarily the frequency response. If anything, *running before and afters using REW and run the waterfalls charts*.



I don't know about REW.

What is it??


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Darn it!!
> 
> You mean I'll have to watch another one of those loud, obnoxious action films??
> 
> Hellboy? Dark Knight? Bourne? Avatar? Decisions,decisions...
> 
> 
> I guess I can do it for the sake of scientific experimentation, if I have to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



I hate to put you through that









John


----------



## TJG55

Have ARCed many, many times on many systems and almost always get max room gain,3.9xxx. On hone system on two rencent runs (with D-2, Sig 2, Servo 15v2, ADP, P-2, A-5) and only get room gain of 2.42 and 2.57. No special room or treatments. Never had reading that low for clients or in store . Any ideas or suggestions?

Also, even after zeroing level trims and setting test tone and sub to 75db, resulting volume has to be very high -5 to -3 for high normal listening, much higher than clients or in-store settings. Fully undrstand gain but seems unusual compared to others. ????

Weight in, guys.

TJG


----------



## nine ball

I have been engaged on a rather extensive aquarium build for the past year and have left this thread and my home theater sadly neglected, until now. During this period of absence I have acquired and just had installed the following......


Anthem D2V

Anthem P5 & P2

Sony 200 proj

sony ES7000 BD carousel

Tosh HD2

Samsung bd player

Escient + 777ES carousel

148" Stewart curved AT white 1.5 gain screen with auto masking

Pan motorized lens

legacy speakers are 8.3 M&K 150's and 350's.



I assume that the greatest majority of BD material available for widescreen is formatted 2.35 or 2.40 over 16X9. Hence the black bars.


If I wanted to get the best results what are the basic parameters for each of the devices in the chain?


What should the BD players be putting out? 480i ?


What should the Anthem expect to see coming in and going out to the projector?


What if any settings should the projector be sensitive to coming in?


Bob, I know you have practically written a book on the subject in the earlier parts of the thread. I am sadly out of date for the last years worth of material. If you can point me to any relevant passages I would appreciate it very much. At this point I am struggling with the basics and would appreciate any help available.


Hi JayRay, it looks like there is an invitation to see the worlds best in home salt water reefs in your future.


Thanks anyone for advice in advance......


Peter


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tngiloy* 
Its been a while since this post was written, but if anyone is still interested, I have attatched ARC charts before and after putting an Auralex Gramma pad under my SVS SB13-Plus. The first attachment is before, and the second after the Auralex Gamma.


I'll let the experts on this thread analyze the charts, but to my eyes there are only minor differences that could easily be explained by human error like slightly different mic positions or sub position. I tried to match the sub position as closely as possible, and believe I was close, but the Gramma raises the sub 2.75'' off the floor so the position would be necessarily slightly different.


FWIW, I do think that the bass is tighter, especially on music, but it certainly can't be proved by the charts. The only thing it proves is my possible susceptibility to a placebo effect.


Tom
Quote:

Originally Posted by *jayray* 
Your graph really doesn't show any diff but putting on some familiar LFE heavy material might help to discern any changes.

John
_Actually_







:...


If you zoom in at 200% and compare the ARC's _calculated_ plots at 150Hz, there's a 6dB or more difference in favor of the Auralex Gramma. The high end frequency response is wider with sub raised off the floor, which is good. There's no placebo effect here at all. Also the measured frequency response is flatter as the variations between the peaks and nulls is smaller with the sub raised of the floor, indicating a reduction in room modes. I don't think different mic positions cause this.


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *nine ball*
I have been engaged on a rather extensive aquarium build for the past year and have left this thread and my home theater sadly neglected, until now. During this period of absence I have acquired and just had installed the following......


Anthem D2V

Anthem P5 & P2

Sony 200 proj

sony ES7000 BD carousel

Tosh HD2

Samsung bd player

Escient + 777ES carousel

148" Stewart curved AT white 1.5 gain screen with auto masking

Pan motorized lens

legacy speakers are 8.3 M&K 150's and 350's.


I assume that the greatest majority of BD material available for widescreen is formatted 2.35 or 2.40 over 16X9. Hence the black bars.


If I wanted to get the best results what are the basic parameters for each of the devices in the chain?


What should the BD players be putting out? 480i ?


What should the Anthem expect to see coming in and going out to the projector?


What if any settings should the projector be sensitive to coming in?


Bob, I know you have practically written a book on the subject in the earlier parts of the thread. I am sadly out of date for the last years worth of material. If you can point me to any relevant passages I would appreciate it very much. At this point I am struggling with the basics and would appreciate any help available.


Hi JayRay, it looks like there is an invitation to see the worlds best in home salt water reefs in your future.


Thanks anyone for advice in advance......


Peter
Well it has been a long time. Glad to see you back Peter and I would love to see the revamped AquaTheater









John


----------



## nugga22

Is 6th Ave. Electronics an authorized dealer for the AVM50v? Thanks!


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *nine ball*
I have been engaged on a rather extensive aquarium build for the past year and have left this thread and my home theater sadly neglected, until now. During this period of absence I have acquired and just had installed the following......


Anthem D2V

Anthem P5 & P2

Sony 200 proj

sony ES7000 BD carousel

Tosh HD2

Samsung bd player

Escient + 777ES carousel

148" Stewart curved AT white 1.5 gain screen with auto masking

Pan motorized lens

legacy speakers are 8.3 M&K 150's and 350's.


I assume that the greatest majority of BD material available for widescreen is formatted 2.35 or 2.40 over 16X9. Hence the black bars.


If I wanted to get the best results what are the basic parameters for each of the devices in the chain?


What should the BD players be putting out? 480i ?


What should the Anthem expect to see coming in and going out to the projector?


What if any settings should the projector be sensitive to coming in?


Bob, I know you have practically written a book on the subject in the earlier parts of the thread. I am sadly out of date for the last years worth of material. If you can point me to any relevant passages I would appreciate it very much. At this point I am struggling with the basics and would appreciate any help available.


Hi JayRay, it looks like there is an invitation to see the worlds best in home salt water reefs in your future.


Thanks anyone for advice in advance......


Peter
If you need help with setup, I am now retired and could probably get you up and running with most of what you have. Online help can sometimes be hard to implement.

John


----------



## nine ball

John that would be a huge assist for me. Two retired calendars shouldn't be impossible to sync. Are you free any time next week??? I'll pm you.........


Peter


----------



## work permit

I'm having a problem setting up the custom resolution. I have a D2V, running 2.10c. I'm trying to configure the custom resolution to be 1600x1200. I ran Live Video Settings Editor, loaded the standard UXGA60 resolution into the editor, and uploaded it to the Anthem. Everything worked fine. The Anthem recogonized the resolution and output it to my projector. Then, after turning the Anthem off and back on, the custom resolution got reset to 1280x720. I tried saving user and installer settings before powering down, and it had no effect. Help!


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/20100402
> 
> 
> I have three identical speakers as LCR, and have ran ARC a few times since I changed speakers (about 10 times before). Every time it's set an equal crossover for the front 3 of 60 hz, and 80 hz for my in wall surrounds.
> 
> 
> I just reduced the toe in of my left and rights, and moved the tweeters to the inside as opposed to the outside of the left and right. Well, this last ARC set my crossover at 80 hz for the left and right, and 60 hz for the center and surrounds. It seems odd that the front 3 would have different crossovers this time. All 3 are in a cabinet underneath my screen.
> 
> 
> My speakers are PSB CHS80s and sub is a JL F113.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts? Sounds good, just curious if I did something wrong or need to run ARC again.



I would think, ideally, that it would be better to have the same cross over across the fronts. I have Paradigm S8s and a C5 center and after I re-modelled my room I kept getting a cut-off of 115Hz for the mains and 60Hz for the center. Ran ARC 10 times or so making minor adjustments to try and get my mains back to a 60Hz cut-off, just because it bugged me, it didn't sound bad. What I did was move my mains 2" further away from the front wall and now I get 60Hz across the fronts every time I ARC. So in answer to your question, I don't thonk you have done anything wrong, especially if it sounds good, but if you want the same cut-offs across the front I would move your speakers back the way they were.


As for your bi-amp question, not sure what you mean. I have my mains and center bi-amped.


John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/20102761
> 
> 
> Have ARCed many, many times on many systems and almost always get max room gain,3.9xxx. On hone system on two rencent runs (with D-2, Sig 2, Servo 15v2, ADP, P-2, A-5) and only get room gain of 2.42 and 2.57. No special room or treatments. Never had reading that low for clients or in store . Any ideas or suggestions?
> 
> Also, even after zeroing level trims and setting test tone and sub to 75db, resulting volume has to be very high -5 to -3 for high normal listening, much higher than clients or in-store settings. Fully undrstand gain but seems unusual compared to others. ????
> 
> Weight in, guys.
> 
> TJG



TJG,

I have a similar system--D2, Sig S4, C3, A5, SVS sub--and my room gain is around 2.8 for movie and 1.9 for music on my most recent ARC runs.

My room has a little treatment--acoustic ceiling tiles and 6'' triangular foam bass traps in the corners of the front wall.


I don't think your Room Gain readings are out of line. I would be more concerned about the 3.9xxx readings. You might consider some treatments on those rooms.


As for the volume levels, they do seem a little high to me. My volume is usually set somewhere between -30 to -20 for normal listening. I have a small HT---1400 cubic ft.

If I turned my volume up to -5 it would probably blow out my eardrums.

It sounds like the volumes are set correctly in the D2 level calibration setup menu, and since you have set up Anthem's with ARC before I'm sure it is.


Make sure you haven't engaged the 'dynamics' feature on the D2 or the source components. The D2 will default the dynamics to 'off' with a power cycle, but it could be turned to 'on' in a source.

Check the 'analog input level' settings in the D2. This should only affect analog connections.


What is the dB level that ARC has set for the green and blue 'calculated' and 'target' line on your charts? Other than the RG hump, do they track along the 75dB line?

What is ARC setting your speaker levels to?

Please post your ARC charts including your targets.

It may give more clues as to what be going on.

Perhaps others here with more knowledge than me would be able to help.

If not, there is always Anthem tech.


Tom


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20105994
> 
> 
> I would think, ideally, that it would be better to have the same cross over across the fronts. I have Paradigm S8s and a C5 center and after I re-modelled my room I kept getting a cut-off of 115Hz for the mains and 60Hz for the center. Ran ARC 10 times or so making minor adjustments to try and get my mains back to a 60Hz cut-off, just because it bugged me, it didn't sound bad. What I did was move my mains 2" further away from the front wall and now I get 60Hz across the fronts every time I ARC. So in answer to your question, I don't thonk you have done anything wrong, especially if it sounds good, but if you want the same cut-offs across the front I would move your speakers back the way they were.
> 
> 
> As for your bi-amp question, not sure what you mean. I have my mains and center bi-amped.
> 
> 
> John



Thanks John. I decided to run Arc again to verify the results were accurate....now all the crossovers are 60Hz again. So, I ran it a third time (ok, because I don't have an SPL meter so all the while I was adjusting the test volume to get closer to 75db) and got 60Hz again. Soooo, long story short, I think I just ran into a bug or had a weird result that one time. If anyone runs into something similar, I would say to re-run ARC to verify results.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20098195
> 
> 
> Squeezebox Touch Plays most digital music formats
> 
> It supports just about any format you've got, including MP3, FLAC, WMA, WMA Lossless, AAC, Apple Lossless, WAV, and AIFF.
> 
> You would use it either wired or wireless and install the Squeezebox Server software on your computer,laptop or WHS or NAS server
> 
> Then connect the Touch digital out to the D2 and either use the Squeezebox internal DAC in Analog Direct or Analog DSP with ARC.
> 
> I have a Transporter and use it more than any other device for music listening.
> 
> If you have a LAN with internet your music sources are unlimited as well as downloading HiRez music files.



The only caveat on the Touch for those with dedicated theaters - especially the man caves - is that the Touch has a touch screen interface that is illuminated. I have a Squeezebox Receiver without display since I didn't want to light up my theater. The Touch has great specs, without a doubt, and will stream via your LAN or from a USB drive (even a flash drive).


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/20098396
> 
> 
> OK, thanks. Seems like a lot of money for a unit that only does video switching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, I have had the D2 for a couple of months and haven't used the ARC yet. I wanted to get familiar with the out of the box sound before installing. I think I'm ready for it now, and hope to do it over the next week or so. I've never used it so you might be getting a bunch more questions from me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mike



Wow, using the D2 without ARC is like viewing your display pre-calibration. You really don't know what your system is capable of yet...


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20107084
> 
> 
> TJG,
> 
> I have a similar system--D2, Sig S4, C3, A5, SVS sub--and my room gain is around 2.8 for movie and 1.9 for music on my most recent ARC runs.
> 
> My room has a little treatment--acoustic ceiling tiles and 6'' triangular foam bass traps in the corners of the front wall.
> 
> 
> I don't think your Room Gain readings are out of line. I would be more concerned about the 3.9xxx readings. You might consider some treatments on those rooms.
> 
> 
> As for the volume levels, they do seem a little high to me. My volume is usually set somewhere between -30 to -20 for normal listening. I have a small HT---1400 cubic ft.
> 
> If I turned my volume up to -5 it would probably blow out my eardrums.
> 
> It sounds like the volumes are set correctly in the D2 level calibration setup menu, and since you have set up Anthem's with ARC before I'm sure it is.
> 
> 
> Make sure you haven't engaged the 'dynamics' feature on the D2 or the source components. The D2 will default the dynamics to 'off' with a power cycle, but it could be turned to 'on' in a source.
> 
> Check the 'analog input level' settings in the D2. This should only affect analog connections.
> 
> 
> What is the dB level that ARC has set for the green and blue 'calculated' and 'target' line on your charts? Other than the RG hump, do they track along the 75dB line?
> 
> What is ARC setting your speaker levels to?
> 
> Please post your ARC charts including your targets.
> 
> It may give more clues as to what be going on.
> 
> Perhaps others here with more knowledge than me would be able to help.
> 
> If not, there is always Anthem tech.
> 
> 
> Tom



if you room is treaded (akustic) will ARC not sets a higher roomgain/targetcurve???


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20109500
> 
> 
> if you room is treaded (akustic) will ARC not sets a higher roomgain/targetcurve???



You are probably right.

It seems to me that some of the posters who have heavily treated rooms get low RG readings, but I may have misunderstood. Wouldn't be the first time-- won't be the last.


I was more concerned with his apparent volume problem.


Tom


----------



## Screamingelvises

Thank you everyone so far for your comments and suggested.


I took the plunge and I picked up an AVM50v on Friday and finally had time to set it up last night. After running Arc it sounds very, very good. I will post my Arc results and look for suggestions and hints on how to make it better when I figure out how to post it from home.


A few observations or problems I ran into:


1.) The input switching takes a little longer than I am used to.


2.) In the set up menu when setting up inputs and moving through the main input menu the video cycling in and out is annoying.


3.) My cable box and the Anthem don't like each other (but I think I can fix that by turning the HDMI off and on in the cable set up menu... forgot to try that last night).


4.) I also have to re-assign some of the inputs so they are on the blue part of the remote (2 ch, 6 ch, tape etc), because I made dvd 2 - PS3, dvd 1 - TV, Dvd 3 - Denon 1620 etc). It would have been nice if the inputs were in LCD format to be modified like on the AVM50 screen.


5.) The manual could be better!


Here are a few questions:

1.) I have a Denon 3910 for CD, SACD - I have it connected via the 6 channel input, coax digital and rca inputs. How do I switch it from coax to rca (i want to compare the difference in sound quality while playing it? Will the Subs still play when listening to CDs via RCA?


2.) Have you guys bought universal remotes to replace the Anthem one? If so, what works well?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Screamingelvises* /forum/post/20111070
> 
> 
> Thank you everyone so far for your comments and suggested.
> 
> 
> I took the plunge and I picked up an AVM50v on Friday and finally had time to set it up last night. After running Arc it sounds very, very good. I will post my Arc results and look for suggestions and hints on how to make it better when I figure out how to post it from home.
> 
> 
> A few observations or problems I ran into:
> 
> 
> 1.) The input switching takes a little longer than I am used to.
> 
> 
> 2.) In the set up menu when setting up inputs and moving through the main input menu the video cycling in and out is annoying.
> 
> 
> 3.) My cable box and the Anthem don't like each other (but I think I can fix that by turning the HDMI off and on in the cable set up menu... forgot to try that last night).
> 
> 
> 4.) I also have to re-assign some of the inputs so they are on the blue part of the remote (2 ch, 6 ch, tape etc), because I made dvd 2 - PS3, dvd 1 - TV, Dvd 3 - Denon 1620 etc). It would have been nice if the inputs were in LCD format to be modified like on the AVM50 screen.
> 
> 
> 5.) The manual could be better!
> 
> 
> Here are a few questions:
> 
> 1.) I have a Denon 3910 for CD, SACD - I have it connected via the 6 channel input, coax digital and rca inputs. How do I switch it from coax to rca (i want to compare the difference in sound quality while playing it? Will the Subs still play when listening to CDs via RCA?
> 
> 
> 2.) Have you guys bought universal remotes to replace the Anthem one? If so, what works well?



Congrats on your purchase... Great unit indeed!


1) To switch between the Denon outputs, assign each output a separate input on the 50v. For example, you could assign the coax digital output to the coax digital input of the 50v while the RCA output of the Denon could be connected to the CD input of the 50v.


The sub will play fine via Denon RCA outputs (50v CD input) if you have ARC enabled. In this case, you'll play a 2.1 system.



2) Logitech's Harmony series of remotes are a favorite around here and they work just fine with the 50v.


Remember to post your ARC graphs. This forum has very knowldegable and helpful members would will help you achieve the best possible sound from your system










PS

One way to minimize the HDMI handshakes between your cable box and D2v is to set the output resolution of teh cable box to be the same as your TV. of course, you'd have told the 50v to output at teh same rate. In my system, I tell my MOXI box to output all material at 1080p/60 and set the Anthem video configuration to 1080p/60 as well, since my TV supports it. If your box outputs 1080i, then make sure all resolutions donwnstream match as well(though i'd set the 50v to 1080p to take advantage of its excellent video scaling).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20111654
> 
> 
> One way to minimize the HDMI handshakes between your cable box and D2v is to set the output resolution of teh cable box to be the same as your TV. of course, you'd have told the 50v to output at teh same rate. In my system, I tell my MOXI box to output all material at 1080p/60 and set the Anthem video configuration to 1080p/60 as well, since my TV supports it. If your box outputs 1080i, then make sure all resolutions donwnstream match as well(though i'd set the 50v to 1080p to take advantage of its excellent video scaling).



YES YES YES - VERY GOOD ADVICE










The other option is to use COMPONENT at 1080i from Cable Box to Anthem.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20111831
> 
> 
> YES YES YES - VERY GOOD ADVICE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other option is to use COMPONENT at 1080i from Cable Box to Anthem.



I feel honored the good doctor has approved my advice







.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20112138
> 
> 
> I feel honored the good doctor has approved my advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Thanks - it is hard for me to get any honor these days.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - it is hard for me to get any honor these days.



I honour you







(Canadian spelling







)

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20112414
> 
> 
> I honour you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Canadian spelling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> John



Yes you do JOHN - I'm sorry I forgot you


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you do JOHN - I'm sorry I forgot you



Hank check out my last post on the MRX thread. A review link which I think you will like.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20113184
> 
> 
> Hank check out my last post on the MRX thread. A review link which I think you will like.
> 
> John


*JOHN*


Honoring *ME*







ONCE in a day is more than enough


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> JOHN
> 
> 
> Honoring ME
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ONCE in a day is more than enough



I thought you'd Ike the car analogy









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20113723
> 
> 
> I thought you'd Ike the car analogy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Yes in my YOUNGER Days - I did own 7 Vette's - It was a nice analogy


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. An issue has come up with my D2v. I have recently purchased an equipment rack and installed the components into their new home. Also my 2nd Submersive arrived today so was looking forward to hooking it up and enjoying it. Well I went to perform a calibration and turned on my Krell 5 channel power amp and I got buzzing from the front right speaker. After spending the last 2hrs connecting reconnecting and testing different cables etc i found the issue. For some reason the HDMI cable from the projector is causing the buzzing and the reason I know this, if I pull the HDMI cable out (Anthem turned off not plugged into the wall) and just have the Krell on with one XLR connected to the right front speaker which is connected to the D2v's right front XLR input the buzzing stops. If I even touch the outside metal part of the connection it causes buzzing out of the speaker. I have even turned off the projector at the wall so there's no power going through the cable.


So is this a fault now with the D2v? As this is now my 3rd unit and has worked flawlessly since I got I really need to know if it's the Anthem. Everything points to it being that as nothing else is connected other than 2 cables. I have tried both HDMI video inputs and I get the same buzzing. Really frustrated right now as I wanted to get the syetm up and running on my one day off this week and now this has happened.


Off to try another HDMI cable. Will report what happens a bit later.


----------



## Screamingelvises

I have another question.


Put Transformers Blu-ray in. Selected Dolby TrueHD via Denon 1610. Denon says it's outputing TrueHD, but the red light on the anthem remains on DD 5.1.

What am I doing wrong?


----------



## SimonNo10

Update. I tried another HDMI cable and when plugged into the Anthem only with the other end not plugged into the projector there's no buzzing. As soon as I connect it to the projector the buzzing comes back in a big way. It seems to be getting worst as there's now an electrical crackling sound in the mix. Now I don't know if it's the Anthem or the projector (Epson TW-3200).


Any thoughts?


----------



## abc999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Screamingelvises* /forum/post/20114779
> 
> 
> I have another question.
> 
> 
> Put Transformers Blu-ray in. Selected Dolby TrueHD via Denon 1610. Denon says it's outputing TrueHD, but the red light on the anthem remains on DD 5.1.
> 
> What am I doing wrong?



Have you tried other disc? Are you using HDMI for your audio and not coax or toslink? Are the setup parameters correct in the 1610?


Alvin


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Update. I tried another HDMI cable and when plugged into the Anthem only with the other end not plugged into the projector there's no buzzing. As soon as I connect it to the projector the buzzing comes back in a big way. It seems to be getting worst as there's now an electrical crackling sound in the mix. Now I don't know if it's the Anthem or the projector (Epson TW-3200).
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?



Odds are you have a "ground loop". It is likely neither the projector nor the Anthem is at fault. It's just that cabling them provides the missing link over the cable shield of that cable to allow the garbage current to flow to ground.


A ground loop is garbage current, most commonly 60Hz power line interference that hops between your devices on the cable shields. The devices making up the path don't even need to be turned on. If the garbage can find a path to ground -- usually along a power plug -- then the current flows.


These days, the single most common source is garbage coming in on the shield of your Cable/Satellite feed wire. To test this, simply disconnect that feed wire where it comes out of the wall. If the buzz goes away you have found the culprit. Fix the grounding where that feed enters your house.


The second most common source is using different wall outlets in your setup that happen to be at different potential with respect to ground. Disconnect everything and reconnect until you find the minimal set of connections producing the buzz. Then look to the power for those devices.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Screamingelvises* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have another question.
> 
> 
> Put Transformers Blu-ray in. Selected Dolby TrueHD via Denon 1610. Denon says it's outputing TrueHD, but the red light on the anthem remains on DD 5.1.
> 
> What am I doing wrong?



Odds are the player is using the DD5.1 "compatibility" track instead of the TrueHD because you have Secondary Audio mixing enabled in the player or because you are using optical/coax digital audio from the player instead of HDMI.


To confirm the audio format the Anthem is receiving, press Select several times.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Odds are you have a "ground loop".



Well it's sorted but not how you may think. I tried the tv using a different HDMI cable and the buzzing remained. Now this is the weird part, I disconnected the HDMI from the Oppo and went to put it back in to the Anthem and the end touch the chassis and the buzzing disappeared. I heard a small zap sound when the cable touched but it removed the buzzing and now it's all good.


Thanks for the reply Bob as well just not sure what to say now but it's fixed. I just ran ARC 6 positions with 2 subs for the first time and will post up the charts for your evaluation.


----------



## SimonNo10

I believe I stuffed up ARC. I haven't run it in awhile and I went into level calibration and adjusted all the channels instead of just the main level and subs. Also for some reason after the cal I checked the speaker config and it had sub set to one when I'm running 2 and I selected 2 in the ARC software before doing the cal. Do I need to set it to 2 on the Anthem under speaker config before running ARC? I'm not 100% sure I did that. Looks like I will need to do it again and re-read the ARC procedure.


Sorry Bob I need the step by step guide to for running ARC and I tried finding it but this thread just has too many posts. I clicked on your link in your sig but there's allot of links there. Also being my first time running 2 subs what are the settings I need to do before running ARC?


Thanks for being patient.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*
I believe I stuffed up ARC. I haven't run it in awhile and I went into level calibration and adjusted all the channels instead of just the main level and subs. Also for some reason after the cal I checked the speaker config and it had sub set to one when I'm running 2 and I selected 2 in the ARC software before doing the cal. Do I need to set it to 2 on the Anthem under speaker config before running ARC? I'm not 100% sure I did that. Looks like I will need to do it again and re-read the ARC procedure.
When using ARC you must set 1 Sub regardless of how many you have. Setting 2 Subs simply changes the meaning of the sub volume trim value, and the value ARC Uploads needs 1 Sub set to work correctly. So it changes that.


The ARC setup doesn't ask how many subs you have, only how many Rear speakers.


What ARC Uploaded for you is fine.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Quote:

The ARC setup doesn't ask how many subs you have, only how many Rear speakers
Ahh ok. It's not clear what that box is on the far right where you can select 1 or 2, I thought that referred to how many subs not rears. Bugger i had that selected to 2 and I'm only running 5.1. Also what I did wrong was I adjusted all the speaker trims under Level Calibration instead of just doing Line level and sub before running ARC. I tested some material and the overall volume was way too loud at -22 on the volume dial (volume level trim was set to -9.5 using an Analogue SPL meter).


I guess I'm running ARC again, thanks Bob. But I would like that step by step guide you have given me before as I printed it out and now I can't find it







Just want to get it right when i do it again this weekend.


----------



## Screamingelvises

Hi Bob,


The Denon is only hooked up via HDMI and I have made sure I selected DolbyTrue HD on the movie format and double checked it by pulling up the audio menu (on the Denon) while in the movie.


I have hit select on the Anthem. What is the surround sound mode in the set up menu I need to select (while setting up inputs) or will it automatically switch to it once the signal gets fed?


Thanks,

Mark


----------



## TJG55




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nugga22* /forum/post/20103645
> 
> 
> Is 6th Ave. Electronics an authorized dealer for the AVM50v? Thanks!



NO! have been terminated since summer, according to my sources. I would not trust them.

TJG


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> It's not clear what that box is on the far right where you can select 1 or 2, I thought that referred to how many subs not rears.


Is this the _number_ of speakers or the number of pairs of speakers? OR, is the box to be checked only if we have a 7.1 system?[I.E. 4 SPEAKERS]

Bugger i had that selected to 2 and I'm only running 5.1. Also what I did wrong was I adjusted all the speaker trims under Level Calibration instead of just doing Line level and sub before running ARC. I tested some material and the overall volume was way too loud at -22 on the volume dial (volume level trim was set to -9.5 using an Analogue SPL meter).


I guess I'm running ARC again, thanks Bob. But I would like that step by step guide you have given me before as I printed it out and now I can't find it







Just want to get it right when i do it again this weekend.[/quote]


----------



## TJG55

Forgot how to change ARC chatrs to post. Can someone supply a link?

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Screamingelvises* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> The Denon is only hooked up via HDMI and I have made sure I selected DolbyTrue HD on the movie format and double checked it by pulling up the audio menu (on the Denon) while in the movie.
> 
> 
> I have hit select on the Anthem. What is the surround sound mode in the set up menu I need to select (while setting up inputs) or will it automatically switch to it once the signal gets fed?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark



There are things you can do that will force the player to use the DD 5.1 associated "compatibility" track even though you have selected the TrueHD track *AND* it is reporting it is reading the TrueHD track. Look in the player manual for a chart that details the audio actually used according to the settings in effect.


The usual culprit here is having Secondary Audio mixing enabled in the player.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Forgot how to change ARC chatrs to post. Can someone supply a link?
> 
> TJG



Do a print screen and then open up in Paint. Save the file in Paint as a jpeg file. When posting in the AVS forum go down the page to Manage downloads. Select the files you saved and choose upload.

John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20115170
> 
> 
> Ahh ok. It's not clear what that box is on the far right where you can select 1 or 2, I thought that referred to how many subs not rears. Bugger i had that selected to 2 and I'm only running 5.1. Also what I did wrong was I adjusted all the speaker trims under Level Calibration instead of just doing Line level and sub before running ARC. I tested some material and the overall volume was way too loud at -22 on the volume dial (volume level trim was set to -9.5 using an Analogue SPL meter).
> 
> 
> I guess I'm running ARC again, thanks Bob. *But I would like that step by step guide you have given me before as I printed it out and now I can't find it :*( Just want to get it right when i do it again this weekend.



Post 28927

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post18914184


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For folks using the Oppo BDP-83 Blu-ray player:


I previously reported a problem here with Oppo's Public Beta firmware from earlier this year which resulted in incorrect audio when using HDMI LPCM (or multi-channel analog) with 7.1 TrueHD tracks. I reported it here as audio dropouts. It turns out to have been even worse than that as the decode in the player was sending audio to the wrong speakers altogether. The workaround was to use HDMI Bitstream audio for 7.1 TrueHD tracks from the Oppo BDP-83.


The bug only existed in that Public Beta firmware release -- not in the "official" player firmware.


That problem is now fixed in the latest Public Beta firmware for the Oppo BDP-83 and 83se just recently released. See Oppo's Support page for install instructions.


------------------------------------------------


There is ANOTHER audio dropout problem that Anthem has confirmed as a D2v/AVM 50v firmware problem dating back at least to last October. This one is exhibited by HDMI LPCM input of the 5.1 TrueHD 96KHz test tones from "DVE HD Basics", Blu-ray. It happens from multiple player models, including the PS3 for example.


It is possible that the Oppo bug (directing audio to the wrong speakers) just coincidentally triggered this Anthem bug -- resulting in the audio dropouts I first reported. The Anthem bug appears to be limited to cases where Left Front is playing alone or in conjunction with Left Surround (other speakers silent) and thus is unlikely to affect real-world movie or music content. Presumably a fix is in the queue.

--Bob


----------



## Screamingelvises

Thanks Bob. I will check. I just wanted to make sure I didn't set the Anthem up incorrectly.


Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Screamingelvises* /forum/post/20117647
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I will check. I just wanted to make sure I didn't set the Anthem up incorrectly.
> 
> 
> Mark



There is nothing you can do wrong in the D2v that will cause actual TrueHD Bitstream input to be misinterpreted as DD5.1


So the problem must be a setup problem in the player.


As I said, secondary audio mixing being enabled in the player is the usual culprit. Another, less likely, scenario is if the player is set to output 480i or 480p video. TrueHD can't fit in that so the "compatibility" DD5.1 track is automatically used instead by the player. Use HDMI 720p or higher when playing these high-bit rate audio tracks.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/20116405
> 
> Is this the _number_ of speakers or the number of pairs of speakers? OR, is the box to be checked only if we have a 7.1 system?[I.E. 4 SPEAKERS]
> 
> Bugger i had that selected to 2 and I'm only running 5.1. Also what I did wrong was I adjusted all the speaker trims under Level Calibration instead of just doing Line level and sub before running ARC. I tested some material and the overall volume was way too loud at -22 on the volume dial (volume level trim was set to -9.5 using an Analogue SPL meter).
> 
> 
> I guess I'm running ARC again, thanks Bob. But I would like that step by step guide you have given me before as I printed it out and now I can't find it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just want to get it right when i do it again this weekend.



You can't get that Rears setting wrong without ARC complaining during Measurement -- as it won't hear any test tones from your alleged Rear speakers.


So apparently you set that number of Rears to 2, but also left the check box Clear as to whether you have ANY Rear speakers at all. Again, if ARC completed the Measurement pass without complaint then the odds are excellent what it Uploaded is just fine as is -- even if you botched the initial setup of Level Calibration values. Those Level Calibration value adjustments are just to make it more likely ARC will not have problems setting up a solution. They get replaced by ARC's results anyway. So again, if ARC didn't complain, then there's no need to redo it. Just don't change what it Uploaded.


If you are confused about any of this it is simple to satisfy yourself. Simply open up your latest ARC results file and look in the Targets window to see which speakers are included in the Movie and Music solutions. If you think you might have altered the stuff ARC Uploaded, then just do a new Upload of those results -- no need to re-Measure or re-Calculate. Then Save User and/or Installer Settings afterwards to make it easier to recover from botched changes.

--Bob


----------



## john fusco

Quick question guy's. I'm in the market for a pre/pro. I got a price on a AVM50v store demo with full warranty for $2,800. Should I pull the trigger or just save up and see if I could get my hands on a D2v? I'm 90% movie's 10% music. Thank's for any feed back.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *john fusco* /forum/post/20117761
> 
> 
> Quick question guy's. I'm in the market for a pre/pro. I got a price on a AVM50v store demo with full warranty for $2,800. Should I pull the trigger or just save up and see if I could get my hands on a D2v? I'm 90% movie's 10% music. Thank's for any feed back.



It sounds like a *GREAT* price to me.


----------



## TJG55

Thanks, JayRay

You and others take a look. No, there is no room treatment.

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I want to warn people again that if you use the "FLAT" subwoofer option in ARC then ARC will apply NO ROLL OFF of the lowest bass frequencies. That is, ARC won't try to protect your sub from getting more bass below 20Hz than it can handle without bottoming out.


This is only safe to do if you know your sub has its own, internal protection against bass levels below 20Hz which it can not actually reproduce -- sometimes called a subsonic filter.


If what you are playing has large amounts of, say, 10Hz in it, perhaps by mistake. What is protecting your sub?


If your sub has such a protection filter, then fine, so long as you don't defeat that too.


(NOTE: This does not apply to DRHANKZ low-rider style floor-bouncers.







)

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *TJG55*
Thanks, JayRay

You and others take a look. No, there is no room treatment.

TJG
These look very good to me. I'd be listening to how good this must sound









John


----------



## ninja12

Quote:

Originally Posted by *TJG55* 
Thanks, JayRay

You and others take a look. No, there is no room treatment.

TJG
Your charts look good. So, kick back and see if your ears agree with your charts. I always say the ears have the final say. Definitely take heed to Bob's WARNING about the "FLAT" Setting. If your sub doesn't have built-in protection for the low frequencies, then it's best to use "Auto" instead of "Flat". "Flat" should only be used if your sub has built-in protection. I use "Flat" for my DD-18s because they have built-in protection which will not allow anything below 14 Hz to be reproduced by the sub.


----------



## mookie b

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ninja12* 
Your charts look good. So, kick back and see if your ears agree with your charts. I always say the ears have the final say. Definitely take heed to Bob's WARNING about the "FLAT" Setting. If your sub doesn't have built-in protection for the low frequencies, then it's best to use "Auto" instead of "Flat". "Flat" should only be used if your sub has built-in protection. I use "Flat" for my DD-18s because they have built-in protection which will not allow anything below 14 Hz to be reproduced by the sub.
Does anyone know if the JL F113 has built in protection?


----------



## TJG55

Guys,

Using a Servo-15, so no problem with flat. As stated before, no room treatment, normal furnishings. Having done lots of ARCing before but have never gotten such a low room gain. Also, while I do understand gain, volume control has to be -6 to -3db for regular listening. Sub and test tone set to apprx 75db. Seems odd to me. No other D, AVM or MRX has shown this. Any ideas?

Tom


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *TJG55* 
Thanks, JayRay

You and others take a look. No, there is no room treatment.

TJG
Are the charts correct in that you have no center speaker ?

If so why ?


----------



## abc999

Quote:

Originally Posted by *TJG55* 
Guys,

Using a Servo-15, so no problem with flat. As stated before, no room treatment, normal furnishings. Having done lots of ARCing before but have never gotten such a low room gain. Also, while I do understand gain, volume control has to be -6 to -3db for regular listening. Sub and test tone set to apprx 75db. Seems odd to me. No other D, AVM or MRX has shown this. Any ideas?

Tom



Mine are at 0.85 room gain with lots of room treatments though.


Alvin


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *thestewman*
Are the charts correct in that you have no center speaker ?

If so why ?
I didn't even notice that. Good question.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/20118486
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> Using a Servo-15, so no problem with flat. As stated before, no room treatment, normal furnishings. Having done lots of ARCing before but have never gotten such a low room gain. Also, while I do understand gain, volume control has to be -6 to -3db for regular listening. Sub and test tone set to apprx 75db. Seems odd to me. No other D, AVM or MRX has shown this. Any ideas?
> 
> Tom



Tom,

do you have a centre channel?

John


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abc999* /forum/post/20119058
> 
> 
> Mine are at 0.85 room gain with lots of room treatments though.
> 
> 
> Alvin



FYIW.

the more treatments i added, the lower the gain became, until, at this moment, i have no gain at all.

walt

[this is with very low capable mains and a pair of servo 15's.]


----------



## eric-t




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20117912
> 
> 
> I want to warn people again that if you use the "FLAT" subwoofer option in ARC then ARC will apply NO ROLL OFF of the lowest bass frequencies. That is, ARC won't try to protect your sub from getting more bass below 20Hz than it can handle without bottoming out.
> 
> 
> This is only safe to do if you know your sub has its own, internal protection against bass levels below 20Hz which it can not actually reproduce -- sometimes called a subsonic filter.
> 
> 
> If what you are playing has large amounts of, say, 10Hz in it, perhaps by mistake. What is protecting your sub?
> 
> 
> If your sub has such a protection filter, then fine, so long as you don't defeat that too.
> 
> 
> (NOTE: This does not apply to DRHANKZ low-rider style floor-bouncers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> --Bob




Should one use "Flat" or "Auto" for subs that go down to 18hz?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eric-t* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Should one use "Flat" or "Auto" for subs that go down to 18hz?



Not sure what you would gain with flat in this case.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eric-t* /forum/post/20119672
> 
> 
> Should one use "Flat" or "Auto" for subs that go down to 18hz?



Depends. If your sub has built-in protection, then you can use "Flat". If your sub does not have built-in protection, then you should use "Auto" to be on the safe side; but, the ultimate decision is really yours to make.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Depends. If your sub has built-in protection, then you can use "Flat". If your sub does not have built-in protection, then you should use "Auto" to be on the safe side; but, the ultimate decision is really yours to make.



Just wondering if subs with further low freq. extensions would benefit more than ones with less ie. close to 20 Hz.

John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Post 28927



Thanks so much for that. I've printed and saved it to my pc so no losing it now.



> Quote:
> If you are confused about any of this it is simple to satisfy yourself. Simply open up your latest ARC results file and look in the Targets window to see which speakers are included in the Movie and Music solutions. If you think you might have altered the stuff ARC Uploaded, then just do a new Upload of those results -- no need to re-Measure or re-Calculate. Then Save User and/or Installer Settings afterwards to make it easier to recover from botched changes



Thanks Bob. I listened to the system after the calibration and to me the speakers are pretty bright sounding and the bass seemed to be lacking. What I will do is upload the results without changing anything and see what you think. I will upload them tonight as I'm at work right now. I've read that some people that implement another sub find that their speakers change in fidelity and become more revealing? Not sure how true that is but after hearing what I heard last night, it may be true. Also after setting the subs to 75db with analogue spl meter (did each one individually before running ARC) ARC set them to -6.5db. Isn't the desired volume trim supposed to be -/+ 3db difference? I'm going by my Audyssey calibration days.


Thanks again for your input.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20117597
> 
> 
> There is ANOTHER audio dropout problem that Anthem has confirmed as a D2v/AVM 50v firmware problem dating back at least to last October. This one is exhibited by HDMI LPCM input of the 5.1 TrueHD 96KHz test tones from "DVE HD Basics", Blu-ray. It happens from multiple player models, including the PS3 for example.



Bob, I've had audio drop outs on a number of CD's here's an example:


Muted sound:

CD Title The Story So Far: The Very Best of Rod Stewart [Original recording remastered] (AU version Barcode 9325583013775)

Disc 1

Track 3

Timestamp 00:07

Went in/out of menu and sound returned.

Muting is repeatable at that timestamp. In this instance pause/play/skip anytime after it mutes brings the sound back(volume and mute button have no effect), but if you don't touch anything it will remain muted, even at the change to track 4.

Playing through either OPPO 83 or Toshiba HD-XE1 via HDMI produces the exact same result.

Playing through the OPPO analog outputs does not produce this muting issue, plays through that segment without issue.


Here's one using a Blu-ray:


Muted Sound:

Blu-ray Dear John (AU version Barcode 9398710889284)

Track Dolby TrueHD

Timestamp 1:14:39

100% repeatable. The First time the sound droped out and didnt return. I rewound and the sound returned only to drop out at the same timestamp. Most times the sound drops out for a few seconds and comes back.



This issue seems quite common on CD's as I've had music playing in the background and when I notice it stopped I've gone to change the CD only to notice it's still playing and the D2v has muted itself. Hit stop then play and the it unmutes........somewhat annoying.


Also still haven't heard back from Anthem regarding the issues I raised previously.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20115162
> 
> 
> When using ARC you must set 1 Sub regardless of how many you have. Setting 2 Subs simply changes the meaning of the sub volume trim value, and the value ARC Uploads needs 1 Sub set to work correctly. So it changes that.
> 
> 
> The ARC setup doesn't ask how many subs you have, only how many Rear speakers.
> 
> 
> What ARC Uploaded for you is fine.
> 
> --Bob



Page 25 of the manual seems to suggest that one should never use that "2 Subs" option if they are using ARC. Does ARC deactivate when you set this to "2 Subs"?


I haven't tested yet but I'm assuming that both Sub outputs are active even when "1 Sub" is selected, unless you are using using the second output for zone 2.


As far as I can tell, if you're using both sub outputs for subwoofers, you intend to use ARC and you want the subs to play LFE + bass from speakers set to small you should set this to "1 Sub". If you also want the subs to play bass from speakers set to large, set this to "1 Super"


Seems a little confusing as one would assume that to output bass from the sub 2 output you would need to set this option to "2 Subs", yet thats not quite what this option determines.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Seems a little confusing as one would assume that to output bass from the sub 2 output you would need to set this option to "2 Subs", yet thats not quite what this option determines



Thanks for that Macca. Yes a bit confusing but I figured it out after I ran ARC with the setting on the D2v set to 1 sub then changed it to 2 in the settings and applied it and played a scene form Ironman 2 and the bass simply disappeared. Went back and changed it to 1 and the bass came back. I'm still not satisfied with the bass and will paly around with the targets and see it it can be improved. I'm currently using both sub inputs.


I will require your services now as I have the 2nd submersive and have spoken to Gordon about implementing sub traps. He was waiting for me to receive the 2nd sub. I'm on holidays from the last week of March.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The 2 Sub choice simply changes the interpretation of the sub volume trim value in an effort to make things easier for folks doing manual setup. The value ARC uploads is calculated assuming the 1 Sub choice is set. Changing the setting back to 2 Sub means ARC's uploaded Sub volume trim will no longer be correctly applied. I.e., it breaks the ARC solution.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Here the latest results of running ARC with 2 subs. I have tweaked the results changing my 3 main speakers to 90hz ARC set them to 75 and changed the sub from 80 to 100. I left the room gain at 0 which is what ARC set it to.


Any advice to improve the results would be appreciated


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20121164
> 
> 
> Here the latest results of running ARC with 2 subs. I have tweaked the results changing my 3 main speakers to 90hz ARC set them to 75 and changed the sub from 80 to 100. I left the room gain at 0 which is what ARC set it to.
> 
> 
> Any advice to improve the results would be appreciated



Looking at your fronts and centre they all have a dip in the range of 125 - 200. The sub is also not able to cover this range. This is where ARC would put in the "hump" (boost) for room gain. I think ARC has decided that it would have to boost these speaker too much so it has left the room gain as zero. If you could find a position that eliminates these dips you might be able to get some room gain. I would think your two subs should be able to get a little higher in this freq range also.


From your previous post I'm not sure how you set the volume for your subs. A -6.5DB trim isn't a problem but did you measure them each to 75db? With two subs you should measure each with your meter to 72DB so that the two combined will be approximately 75db. ARC has taken care of it but if you are doing another ARC run then just lower the volume on the subs first and you'll get closer to 0 trim.


----------



## TJG55

Quite perceptive,

I do not use a center for several reasons.

.....fronts are less than 8' apart.

.....ever listened to test tones on all three fronts? center never sounds quite the same as L and R, regardless of positioning.

.....Maybe Anthem was on to something when the Music config did not allow center to play.

....ever listened to your system with no center selected? imaging?

....would be a hassle to place center speaker

Ha! You all thought I made a mistake.


I have used this set-up for many years but I do not in my store(been doing hi-fi for over 38 years) . Most people think I'm up to something nefarious.

TJG


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quite perceptive,
> 
> I do not use a center for several reasons.
> 
> .....fronts are less than 8' apart.
> 
> .....ever listened to test tones on all three fronts? center never sounds quite the same as L and R, regardless of positioning.
> 
> .....Maybe Anthem was on to something when the Music config did not allow center to play.
> 
> ....ever listened to your system with no center selected? imaging?
> 
> ....would be a hassle to place center speaker
> 
> Ha! You all thought I made a mistake.
> 
> 
> I have used this set-up for many years but I do not in my store(been doing hi-fi for over 38 years) . Most people think I'm up to something nefarious.
> 
> TJG



Not nefarious, just different. If you like it that way who are we to argue









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20122328
> 
> 
> Not nefarious, just different. If you like it that way who are we to argue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Come on *JOHN* - ARGUE


If his center does not sound good - guess what the answer is.


You don't eliminate - you replace it


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Come on JOHN - ARGUE
> 
> 
> If his center does not sound good - guess what the answer is.
> 
> 
> You don't eliminate - you replace it



I replaced my old centre for the CC690 and it transformed my movies. Now for music I still use stereo and no sub so some would think I'm crazy









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20122421
> 
> 
> I replaced my old centre for the CC690 and it transformed my movies. Now for music I still use stereo and no sub so some would think I'm crazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Sorry - NO SUB is a no no in my book.


At least a 2.1 system


----------



## TJG55

DrHankz,

highly respect your opinion but I have had acess to all Paradigm center channels since the very first one. Only close mach is 3 identical CCs on identical stands placed very judiously.

thanks

TJG


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry - NO SUB is a no no in my book.
> 
> 
> At least a 2.1 system



Gives me a headache









John

I should add that my studio 100s were set to full range and that gave me enough bass.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/20122101
> 
> 
> Quite perceptive,
> 
> I do not use a center for several reasons.
> 
> .....fronts are less than 8' apart.
> 
> .....ever listened to test tones on all three fronts? center never sounds quite the same as L and R, regardless of positioning.
> 
> .....Maybe Anthem was on to something when the Music config did not allow center to play.
> 
> ....ever listened to your system with no center selected? imaging?
> 
> ....would be a hassle to place center speaker
> 
> Ha! You all thought I made a mistake.
> 
> 
> I have used this set-up for many years but I do not in my store(been doing hi-fi for over 38 years) . Most people think I'm up to something nefarious.
> 
> TJG



Questions as I don't completely understand the technical aspects of what you are doing and the results.


What do you do with the center output from the Anthem ?


When playing DVDs or BDs what happens to the center dialog ?


If you were just listening to music I could understand setting it up as a

pure 2 channel system.


----------



## thestewman

I want to setup my 7.1 system to only play 2 channel stereo in the Arc Music setup.

The LF and RF speakers are full range with powered low freq woofers.


I would like to have the sub woofer included but not just for LFE but as an addition to the LF and RF woofers.


Is this possible ? Any ideas ?


----------



## eric-t




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20123169
> 
> 
> Questions as I don't completely understand the technical aspects of what you are doing and the results.
> 
> 
> What do you do with the center output from the Anthem ?
> 
> 
> When playing DVDs or BDs what happens to the center dialog ?
> 
> 
> If you were just listening to music I could understand setting it up as a
> 
> pure 2 channel system.



He is running a phantom center. When he selects "no" center, the dialog is re-directed to the L/R fronts.


----------



## TJG55

Good call, E

It's the way stereo produces a center image and soundstage.

tjg


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20122734
> 
> 
> I should add that my studio 100s were set to full range and that gave me enough bass.
> 
> John



I knew that would be your answer - John.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that would be your answer - John.



If it makes you feel better Hank, Nick thinks I should my sub too









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20123409
> 
> 
> If it makes you feel better Hank, Nick thinks I should my sub too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



We all know - *NICK* is always right


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20123453
> 
> 
> We all know - *NICK* is always right



I have a bit of BAD BOY in me









John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20123203
> 
> 
> I want to setup my 7.1 system to only play 2 channel stereo in the Arc Music setup.
> 
> The LF and RF speakers are full range with powered low freq woofers.
> 
> 
> I would like to have the sub woofer included but not just for LFE but as an addition to the LF and RF woofers.
> 
> 
> Is this possible ? Any ideas ?



Simple ... Just set your movies configuration to 7.1 in ARC setup and set the music configuration to 2.1 (uncheck all other speakers).


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/20122101
> 
> 
> .....Maybe Anthem was on to something when the Music config did not allow center to play.



Center channel was invented so people outside a sweet spot could hear sound meant to come from the center as intended instead of from the nearest speaker, which is the effect when one speaker's sound arrives before the other's, when the signal is mono.


Now, define sweet spot... to me it involves keeping your head in a vise because even if you move an inch to either side the image changes quite dramatically when playing dialog from L/R compared to C (remember to level-match within 0.1 dB when doing any listening comparison), even from the perspective of the sweet spot of the surround mixing console at a national TV station (been there as a guest and tried the above).


As for why AL-Music leaves out the center channel, it's just a simple request I made in 2001 - all preference, no other reason - and in any case meant strictly for 2-channel sources, for people who still listen to stereo albums start to finish from a listening chair.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/20122657
> 
> 
> DrHankz,
> 
> highly respect your opinion but I have had acess to all Paradigm center channels since the very first one. Only close mach is 3 identical CCs on identical stands placed very judiously.
> 
> thanks
> 
> TJG



Three identical speakers, CC or otherwise, won't sound the same just because of positioning and wall reflections, not to mention directionality of our very ears. There's always ARC though...


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20123453
> 
> 
> We all know - *NICK* is always right



seriously... not being able to learn something new every day would be like life's end.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20124401
> 
> 
> Simple ... Just set your movies configuration to 7.1 in ARC setup and set the music configuration to 2.1 (uncheck all other speakers).



In doing this as Music 2.1 will the sub only play LFE ?


I want it to play everything the full range speaker woofer plays.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20124455
> 
> 
> seriously... not being able to learn something new every day would be like life's end.



That is why each day *ADDS* more learning to your database


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> From your previous post I'm not sure how you set the volume for your subs. A -6.5DB trim isn't a problem but did you measure them each to 75db? With two subs you should measure each with your meter to 72DB so that the two combined will be approximately 75db. ARC has taken care of it but if you are doing another ARC run then just lower the volume on the subs first and you'll get closer to 0 trim.



I set my spl meter to the correct settings with "0" being 80db so anything to the left of "0" would be less than 80db. So I set each sub individually with the neddle just on 75db (didn't get access to the guide before running ARC so didn't set them to 72db). I'm restricted to where these 2 subs can go but their orientation can be changed. I currently have both subs turned so one woofer faces into the room the other towards the front wall. I could rotate them so both woofers fire left and right of each other and see what I get with using quickmeasure.


Should I add some room gain myself in small increments and see what effect that has on the graphs?


This is the sub I'm using x2:

http://www.seaton-sound-forum.com/post?id=1945927


----------



## Kris Deering

First off, BIG thanks to Bob for helping me out these last few days. Definitely had some growing pains with the D2V installation. Still haven't worked out all the video quirks, but the audio is every bit as solid as I remember from my D2 days. Here are my ARC results. You can see the huge bottom end gain in my rears as they are really close to the back wall. I am using Paradigm Signature S8s (Mains), C5, S6s (Rears) and ADPs (surrounds). I have four subs in the room, 2 SVS PB12/2 Plus and 2 CS 25-36. I actually ended up using a SVS Sub EQ (Audyssey) for the subs prior to ARC, so the subEQ is in use too. This allows me to do phase for all the subs (I am treating each pair as one as they are equidistant and co-located to each other).


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/20125529
> 
> 
> First off, BIG thanks to Bob for helping me out these last few days. Definitely had some growing pains with the D2V installation. Still haven't worked out all the video quirks, but the audio is every bit as solid as I remember from my D2 days. Here are my ARC results. You can see the huge bottom end gain in my rears as they are really close to the back wall. I am using Paradigm Signature S8s (Mains), C5, S6s (Rears) and ADPs (surrounds). I have four subs in the room, 2 SVS PB12/2 Plus and 2 CS 25-36. I actually ended up using a SVS Sub EQ (Audyssey) for the subs prior to ARC, so the subEQ is in use too. This allows me to do phase for all the subs (I am treating each pair as one as they are equidistant and co-located to each other).



Looks like you have a winner here to me. Kick back and enjoy and hopefully your ears will coincide with your charts.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> First off, BIG thanks to Bob for helping me out these last few days. Definitely had some growing pains with the D2V installation. Still haven't worked out all the video quirks, but the audio is every bit as solid as I remember from my D2 days. Here are my ARC results. You can see the huge bottom end gain in my rears as they are really close to the back wall. I am using Paradigm Signature S8s (Mains), C5, S6s (Rears) and ADPs (surrounds). I have four subs in the room, 2 SVS PB12/2 Plus and 2 CS 25-36. I actually ended up using a SVS Sub EQ (Audyssey) for the subs prior to ARC, so the subEQ is in use too. This allows me to do phase for all the subs (I am treating each pair as one as they are equidistant and co-located to each other).



I think that sub chart is Hall of Fame worthy









John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I think that sub chart is Hall of Fame worthy



Wish I could get my sub chart to look like that. Very nice


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I could get my sub chart to look like that. Very nice



Maybe you can







How is the reorientation going?

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20125693
> 
> 
> I think that sub chart is Hall of Fame worthy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I agree. It gets my vote.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20125938
> 
> 
> Wish I could get my sub chart to look like that. Very nice



I'm sure that you can. It just takes some patience and experimentation.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20124543
> 
> 
> In doing this as Music 2.1 will the sub only play LFE ?
> 
> 
> I want it to play everything the full range speaker woofer plays.



No ... the sub will play all frequencies below the crossover specified by ARC. Likewise the mains will play all frequencies above their ARC specified crossover.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/20125529
> 
> 
> First off, BIG thanks to Bob for helping me out these last few days. Definitely had some growing pains with the D2V installation. Still haven't worked out all the video quirks, but the audio is every bit as solid as I remember from my D2 days. Here are my ARC results. You can see the huge bottom end gain in my rears as they are really close to the back wall. I am using Paradigm Signature S8s (Mains), C5, S6s (Rears) and ADPs (surrounds). I have four subs in the room, 2 SVS PB12/2 Plus and 2 CS 25-36. I actually ended up using a SVS Sub EQ (Audyssey) for the subs prior to ARC, so the subEQ is in use too. This allows me to do phase for all the subs (I am treating each pair as one as they are equidistant and co-located to each other).



That sub response is simply insane







!


Comforting to know that even the infamous Kris Deering from HT Magazine can have installation problems


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Maybe you can How is the reorientation going?



No where at the moment as I work 5 days a week so haven't been home today to try it out. Will do so most likely on the weekend.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20126557
> 
> 
> No where at the moment as I work 5 days a week so haven't been home today to try it out. Will do so most likely on the weekend.



Make sure you post your charts so that we can see what's going on and give some advice if we can.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Make sure you post your charts so that we can see what's going on and give some advice if we can.



I will use quick measure after rotating the subs and see what I get. Thanks guys


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/20125529
> 
> 
> First off, BIG thanks to Bob for helping me out these last few days. Definitely had some growing pains with the D2V installation. Still haven't worked out all the video quirks, but the audio is every bit as solid as I remember from my D2 days. Here are my ARC results. You can see the huge bottom end gain in my rears as they are really close to the back wall. I am using Paradigm Signature S8s (Mains), C5, S6s (Rears) and ADPs (surrounds). I have four subs in the room, 2 SVS PB12/2 Plus and 2 CS 25-36. I actually ended up using a SVS Sub EQ (Audyssey) for the subs prior to ARC, so the subEQ is in use too. This allows me to do phase for all the subs (I am treating each pair as one as they are equidistant and co-located to each other).



Very nice indeed, on another note, can you tell me why there is no D2v review in the HTM yet? Are you waiting to see if the HDMI problems get fixed?


John


----------



## Kris Deering

Shane Buettner was going to do a review but had already done a review of the D2 with the ARC and didn't see fit to do a review of the D2V. I don't know if there will be a review of the D2V in its current form, but maybe when they do the HDMI board update to 1.4. But that is a decision for the EIC, not me.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/20127662
> 
> 
> Shane Buettner was going to do a review but had already done a review of the D2 with the ARC and didn't see fit to do a review of the D2V. I don't know if there will be a review of the D2V in its current form, but maybe when they do the HDMI board update to 1.4. But that is a decision for the EIC, not me.




Thanks for the inside scoop, I was just curious as it has stated "Review Upcoming" for over a year now.


John


----------



## Screamingelvises

Hello Everyone,

I made some tweaks and ran Arc today. I don't know how these numbers look? Your suggestions and comments are welcome. I have what I think is a difficult room right now until I finish the basement in the house I just bought. The HT is on the 2nd floor overlooking an 2.5 story open great room so 2 walls are not there. Plus I have windows to the right of the HT.


Thanks,

Mark

 

Anthem Arc Reading 3-10-11.doc 278.5k . file


----------



## DaveBoswell




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/20102940
> 
> 
> I have been engaged on a rather extensive aquarium build for the past year and have left this thread and my home theater sadly neglected, until now. During this period of absence I have acquired and just had installed the following......
> 
> 
> Anthem D2V
> 
> Anthem P5 & P2
> 
> Sony 200 proj
> 
> sony ES7000 BD carousel
> 
> Tosh HD2
> 
> Samsung bd player
> 
> Escient + 777ES carousel
> 
> 148" Stewart curved AT white 1.5 gain screen with auto masking
> 
> Pan motorized lens
> 
> legacy speakers are 8.3 M&K 150's and 350's.
> 
> 
> 
> I assume that the greatest majority of BD material available for widescreen is formatted 2.35 or 2.40 over 16X9. Hence the black bars.
> 
> 
> If I wanted to get the best results what are the basic parameters for each of the devices in the chain?
> 
> 
> What should the BD players be putting out? 480i ?
> 
> 
> What should the Anthem expect to see coming in and going out to the projector?
> 
> 
> What if any settings should the projector be sensitive to coming in?
> 
> 
> Bob, I know you have practically written a book on the subject in the earlier parts of the thread. I am sadly out of date for the last years worth of material. If you can point me to any relevant passages I would appreciate it very much. At this point I am struggling with the basics and would appreciate any help available.
> 
> 
> Hi JayRay, it looks like there is an invitation to see the worlds best in home salt water reefs in your future.
> 
> 
> Thanks anyone for advice in advance......
> 
> 
> Peter



Peter - long time no talk and great to see you are getting back to a serious hobby! Would be glad to come by and help out, though not quite as flexible timewise as some of you lucky retired folks.


PM me if you're interested.


Dave


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Screamingelvises* /forum/post/20130820
> 
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I made some tweaks and ran Arc today. I don't know how these numbers look? Your suggestions and comments are welcome. I have what I think is a difficult room right now until I finish the basement in the house I just bought. The HT is on the 2nd floor overlooking an 2.5 story open great room so 2 walls are not there. Plus I have windows to the right of the HT.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark



Mark:


Not Bob obviously but i'd say you have a good response overall. I would suggest the following:


1. The center has a null between 150 - 250Hz. A repositioning is necessary. You may need to move it away from the wall to reduce the bass hump between 80 - 100Hz. Or if you have a boundary wall switch at the back, then you ould need to engage it.


3. The sub has a null at 50Hz or so. Once again, a repositioning helps eliminate or flatten nulls at these frequencies.


Also, set the sub setting in ARC to flat at 20Hz to flatten out your response at the top of the bass curve and not round it off.


Also please post your Targets chart. You're good to go up to 10KHz.


Best of luck







!


David


----------



## Screamingelvises

Hi David,

Thanks, I think the issue with the center is it is on a center speaker stand and a coffee table is not too far from it about 2 feet from the speaker (between the couch and the speaker). I will likely move that out of the way but the girlfriend likes to prop her feet up (so we will see). If I remove the coffee table do I have re-run arc again?


I will monkey with the two subs positions but I don't have a lot of options due to room space (and the speakers, subs, entertainment center, the amp stand are all big and all get in the way)!


Also, how do I set my sub setting in arc to flat at 20HZ? I am sorry if that is a silly question but arc is new to me. My other calibration experience have been either splr meter (B&K Ref 50, Ref 10 etc) or let the system (velodyne sub, pre-amp or receiver) do the mic/sound sweep and it makes it's own adjustments etc.


This Pre-Amp sounds/looks awesome but tweaking/ setting up optimally has been a little daunting for me


I will post my targets charts as well.


Thanks again!

Mark


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Screamingelvises* /forum/post/20132822
> 
> 
> Hi David,
> 
> Thanks, I think the issue with the center is it is on a center speaker stand and a coffee table is not too far from it about 2 feet from the speaker (between the couch and the speaker). I will likely move that out of the way but the girlfriend likes to prop her feet up (so we will see). If I remove the coffee table do I have re-run arc again?
> Yes you do. Whenever you move or tilt speakers, you change the frequncy response of the speaker-room system, hence you need to re-ARC your system.
> 
> 
> I will monkey with the two subs positions but I don't have a lot of options due to room space (and the speakers, subs, entertainment center, the amp stand are all big and all get in the way)!
> 
> Did you phase match the subs with respect to each other? Afterwards you then need to phase match the sibs to the mains.
> 
> 
> Also, how do I set my sub setting in arc to flat at 20HZ? I am sorry if that is a silly question but arc is new to me. My other calibration experience have been either splr meter (B&K Ref 50, Ref 10 etc) or let the system (velodyne sub, pre-amp or receiver) do the mic/sound sweep and it makes it's own adjustments etc.
> 
> Open up your targets window and click on the "Advanced Settings" tab. Then set the "subwoofer high pass filter" to "Flat" for both music and movie modes. Leave the minimum EQ frequwncy to 20Hz.
> 
> 
> This Pre-Amp sounds/looks awesome but tweaking/ setting up optimally has been a little daunting for me
> No worries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...it gets easier quickly.
> 
> 
> I will post my targets charts as well.
> 
> 
> Thanks again!
> 
> Mark



See my answers above ...


----------



## Screamingelvises

Hi Dave,


Thanks again for your help!. I will work through your suggestions and report back. It will be a week before I can (likely).


Warmest Regards,

Mark


----------



## Ralph Potts

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* 
First off, BIG thanks to Bob for helping me out these last few days. Definitely had some growing pains with the D2V installation. Still haven't worked out all the video quirks, but the audio is every bit as solid as I remember from my D2 days. Here are my ARC results. You can see the huge bottom end gain in my rears as they are really close to the back wall. I am using Paradigm Signature S8s (Mains), C5, S6s (Rears) and ADPs (surrounds). I have four subs in the room, 2 SVS PB12/2 Plus and 2 CS 25-36. I actually ended up using a SVS Sub EQ (Audyssey) for the subs prior to ARC, so the subEQ is in use too. This allows me to do phase for all the subs (I am treating each pair as one as they are equidistant and co-located to each other).
Kris,


Welcome back to the Anthem family my friend..










Regards,


----------



## SimonNo10

Got around to rotating the subs and ran a 6 position calibration. I made some adjustments to the speaker crossover's from 70 to 90 for the fronts and center (surrounds were already set to 90). Got some room gain and I adjusted the sub from 80 to 120 and set the subs to flat from auto. To me the sub chart has improved from my last calibration. What are your thoughts guys?


*Update*


Hmm I tested these settings with some SACD multi channel and I must say I didn't like the sound, it seemed too bright and the bass just isn't as smooth and hard hitting as I've had in the past. What I will do is upload the original settings that ARC produced without any tweaking and see if I like it.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20137960
> 
> 
> Got around to rotating the subs and ran a 6 position calibration. I made some adjustments to the speaker crossover's from 70 to 90 for the fronts and center (surrounds were already set to 90). Got some room gain and I adjusted the sub from 80 to 120 and set the subs to flat from auto. To me the sub chart has improved from my last calibration. What are your thoughts guys?
> 
> 
> *Update*
> 
> 
> Hmm I tested these settings with some SACD multi channel and I must say I didn't like the sound, it seemed too bright and the bass just isn't as smooth and hard hitting as I've had in the past. What I will do is upload the original settings that ARC produced without any tweaking and see if I like it.



I am no expert when it comes to deciphering the ARC charts but I see the crossover for the Left Frt and Rt Frt are dropping off before the sub. So there would be a hole in the system response at about 100 to 150 hz.

If memory serves me correctly you should not be changing the response cutoffs set by ARC. They are not the crossover points.


----------



## SimonNo10

I'm sure your right I was just experimenting. Anyway I decided to put the subs back the way they were and redo ARC again this time properly following the steps. This is what it gave me.


What are peoples thoughts and ways to improve?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20138371
> 
> 
> I'm sure your right I was just experimenting. Anyway I decided to put the subs back the way they were and redo ARC again this time properly following the steps. This is what it gave me.
> 
> 
> I tried my usual test scenes and the bass is just average, the impact is just isn't there and for some reason the volume on the graphs shows approx 70db when before on my previous charts (the very first ones on the previous page now) it shows 75db?? Why does that change?
> 
> 
> No idea what's going on maybe I need to reinstall the software on the Anthem or something as the system just doesn't sound right to me. _*I was hoping implementing an additional sub would allow me to get a better bass result but I'm struggling to get it as good as I had running one sub*_.



ARC is wonderful, but its one drawback is its inability to set up multiple subs.

ARC treats your sub(s) as a single speaker. You need to adjust the phase and polarity between your subs before you run ARC.


Your impression of your 2 subs not sounding as good as one probably means that at certain freq they are cancelling each other out in your listening spots.


There have been some some good posts here detailing different ways to get subs set up correctly. I believe DUSMOKE has a 'null/peak' method that has helped many.

Others, like Kris Deering above, employ an outboard eq device like the SVS AS-1 eq.

Others have hired a professional to set up their subs.


Once your subs are first set up correctly, and then ARC is used, your system will sound better, not worse. But it will take time, money, or both, to first get your subs set up with each other, before ARC will be able to do its magic.


Tom


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks tngiloy. I just updated my charts (in above post) as I redid ARC again with the subs the way I had them the first time.


Very interesting what you have said regarding using dual subs and ARC. I welcome any suggestions and ways to improve them. Thanks for the heads up.



> Quote:
> Kris Deering above, employ an outboard eq device like the SVS AS-1 eq.



I sold mine last year thinking that I no longer required it as ARC was doing such a great job with the one sub. I had an opportunity to be part of a group buy and purchased a 2nd sub. Hmm maybe I need to get my hands on another SVS AS EQ


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20138611
> 
> 
> Very interesting what you have said regarding using dual subs and ARC. I welcome any suggestions and ways to improve them. Thanks for the heads up.
> 
> I sold mine last year thinking that I no longer required it as ARC was doing such a great job with the one sub. I had an opportunity to be part of a group buy and purchased a 2nd sub. Hmm maybe I need to get my hands on another SVS AS EQ


*BOB P* did publish instructions in this thread


*THESE are the Instructions* for Multiple Subs.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20138611
> 
> 
> Thanks tngiloy. I just updated my charts (in above post) as I redid ARC again with the subs the way I had them the first time.
> 
> 
> Very interesting what you have said regarding using dual subs and ARC. I welcome any suggestions and ways to improve them. Thanks for the heads up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sold mine last year thinking that I no longer required it as ARC was doing such a great job with the one sub. I had an opportunity to be part of a group buy and purchased a 2nd sub. Hmm maybe I need to get my hands on another SVS AS EQ



The charts can't show phase mismatches so that could be your problem. Your fronts also have a large null between 150-500hz. This can't be helping either. Are you able to move these at all? This is also a reason for no room gain.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Are you able to move these at all? This is also a reason for no room gain.



No I can't move them. I didn't have this issue when I was running one sub they integrated quite well.



> Quote:
> BOB P did publish instructions in this thread



Yes I followed this guide as I printed it out.



> Quote:
> must zero at least the LF line and the subwoofer lines (both of them)



When it says this is it referring to the sub-Movie and Music? Is that what he means by lines?


The Mark Seaton Submersive does not have a phase knob on the back in fact it's quite a simple setup.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> No I can't move them. I didn't have this issue when I was running one sub they integrated quite well.



It would be interesting to see what that chart looked like.

John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> It would be interesting to see what that chart looked like



Here you go. Compared to what I'm hearing now this was the best my system has sounded. It's not perfect but the bass was excellent.


Since performing the most recent ARC cal I haven't put the system on to test it as it's too late now (1.50am Sunday Morning)


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20138692
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When it says this is it referring to the sub-Movie and Music? Is that what he means by lines?



This is referring to the (speaker) "level calibration" setup trim levels.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> This is referring to the (speaker) "level calibration" setup trim levels.



Yes that's what I'm referring too sorry. When he says "lines" his talking about the volume trim for both Movies and Music isn't he? They should both be set to "0"


On a side note I had every intention of implementing some professional base traps made for my setup. I have a guy who is HAA level 2 certified that installed some diffusor ceiling panels not long ago and we talked about bringing in some base traps once I installed the 2nd sub.


So looking at my latest results any suggestions at all with adjusting the crossovers for the speakers or the sub? Bob assisted me with the last cal (the graphs I just posted running one sub), and he suggested changing the mains to 90 from 80 etc. Maybe making similar adjustments and perhaps changing the sub from 80 to 100 and setting it to flat will improve things?


*Update*


I just made a few adjustments to see if I could improve the bass so here are the charts


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20138796
> 
> 
> Yes that's what I'm referring too sorry. When he says "lines" his talking about the volume trim for both Movies and Music isn't he? They should both be set to "0"
> 
> 
> On a side note I had every intention of implementing some professional base traps made for my setup. I have a guy who is HAA level 2 certified that installed some diffusor ceiling panels not long ago and we talked about bringing in some base traps once I installed the 2nd sub.
> 
> 
> So looking at my latest results any suggestions at all with adjusting the crossovers for the speakers or the sub? Bob assisted me with the last cal (the graphs I just posted running one sub), and he suggested changing the mains to 90 from 80 etc. Maybe making similar adjustments and perhaps changing the sub from 80 to 100 and setting it to flat will improve things?
> 
> 
> *Update*
> 
> 
> I just made a few adjustments to see if I could improve the bass so here are the charts



Overall, your charts look good. The only problem I see, which you have pointed out and is working on, is with your sub. If I understand you correctly, you have added a second sub which I'm going to guess is a second Submersive which are very good subs. Since you added the second sub, it appears to me that they are fighting against each other meaning they are cancelling each other out. So, at this point, you should play around with placement. Your sub chart begins to drop at 40 Hz which is not good. I would suggest you do the placement test one sub at a time. You can use Quick Measure; but, I prefer doing a test sweep with the fronts and sub only across all LPs so that I can see the overall result instead of just the result of 1 LP. You should do this until your chart looks pretty smooth from 20 Hz to 100 Hz. Once you have achieved good placement with the first sub, then repeat the same thing with the other sub in other locations. Once you both subs looking pretty smooth from 20 Hz to 100 Hz, now you can see what they look like playing together. At this point, hopefully, you should only need to make minor adjustments. This is time consuming and does take patience and experimenting; but, you have some good subs, and you shouldn't settle for how they are performing now. One other trick I also do is the distance trick; but, I don't do that until I have found the best placement for the sub.


Of course, if you can install some room treats and bass traps, that will also help. If you can, you can install bass traps in your corners from floor to ceiling, and you can install some absorbers at the first reflection points. That will help too with the overall sound.


Anyway, I would try the no cost method right now and just play around with your sub placement. Once you get that resolved, I would next change the room gain to 2.0 to get a little hump in the midrange bass; but, I wouldn't do that until you get your subs performing a little better.


I hope this was a help. Keep us informed, and good luck to you.


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20120841
> 
> 
> Bob, I've had audio drop outs on a number of CD's here's an example:
> 
> 
> Muted sound:
> 
> CD Title The Story So Far: The Very Best of Rod Stewart [Original recording remastered] (AU version Barcode 9325583013775)
> 
> Disc 1
> 
> Track 3
> 
> Timestamp 00:07
> 
> Went in/out of menu and sound returned.
> 
> Muting is repeatable at that timestamp. In this instance pause/play/skip anytime after it mutes brings the sound back(volume and mute button have no effect), but if you don't touch anything it will remain muted, even at the change to track 4.
> 
> Playing through either OPPO 83 or Toshiba HD-XE1 via HDMI produces the exact same result.
> 
> Playing through the OPPO analog outputs does not produce this muting issue, plays through that segment without issue.
> 
> 
> Here's one using a Blu-ray:
> 
> 
> Muted Sound:
> 
> Blu-ray Dear John (AU version Barcode 9398710889284)
> 
> Track Dolby TrueHD
> 
> Timestamp 1:14:39
> 
> 100% repeatable. The First time the sound droped out and didnt return. I rewound and the sound returned only to drop out at the same timestamp. Most times the sound drops out for a few seconds and comes back.
> 
> 
> 
> This issue seems quite common on CD's as I've had music playing in the background and when I notice it stopped I've gone to change the CD only to notice it's still playing and the D2v has muted itself. Hit stop then play and the it unmutes........somewhat annoying.
> 
> 
> Also still haven't heard back from Anthem regarding the issues I raised previously.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers



I've also had many music audio drop outs on different CDs. I have a media player and CD/DVD player both digitally connected to my AVM 50v. I get drop outs at the same place on a track whether it's played via the original CD or the ripped file on the media player. Press pause/play or de-select/select the input on the AVM gets the music back.


If I connect them both via analogue cables the problem doesn't occur which seems to indicate its the AVM 50v DAC that's the problem. However, I want to use the AVM DAC.


I've never had any audio drop outs from either the CD/DVD when playing a DVD or my blu-ray (HDMI connected) or my satellite box (digitally connnected).


The problem only started when I upgraded firmware from 2.8 to 2.10 (also tried 2.10c). Reported this to Anthem last October but they don't seem very interested.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Here you go. Compared to what I'm hearing now this was the best my system has sounded. It's not perfect but the bass was excellent.
> 
> 
> Since performing the most recent ARC cal I haven't put the system on to test it as it's too late now (1.50am Sunday Morning)



I would agree with Ninja, this really looks like a placement issue and time and patience will be your friends







The potential is definitely there got some great LFE and impact bass.

John


----------



## angel18

my knowledge of the use of electronic tools so minimal and therefore there any tool that could have a system or who made the film sound more interesting.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20138611
> 
> 
> Thanks tngiloy. I just updated my charts (in above post) as I redid ARC again with the subs the way I had them the first time.
> 
> 
> Very interesting what you have said regarding using dual subs and ARC. I welcome any suggestions and ways to improve them. Thanks for the heads up.
> 
> 
> I sold mine last year thinking that I no longer required it as ARC was doing such a great job with the one sub. I had an opportunity to be part of a group buy and purchased a 2nd sub. Hmm maybe I need to get my hands on another SVS AS EQ



Simon:


I have a very brand new-still-in-the-box-unopened AS EQ that i could sell you. PM me if you want it.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20138599
> 
> 
> ARC is wonderful, but its one drawback is its inability to set up multiple subs.
> 
> ARC treats your sub(s) as a single speaker. You need to adjust the phase and polarity between your subs before you run ARC.
> 
> 
> Your impression of your 2 subs not sounding as good as one probably means that at certain freq they are cancelling each other out in your listening spots.
> 
> 
> There have been some some good posts here detailing different ways to get subs set up correctly. I believe DUSMOKE has a 'null/peak' method that has helped many.
> 
> Others, like Kris Deering above, employ an outboard eq device like the SVS AS-1 eq.
> 
> Others have hired a professional to set up their subs.
> 
> 
> Once your subs are first set up correctly, and then ARC is used, your system will sound better, not worse. But it will take time, money, or both, to first get your subs set up with each other, before ARC will be able to do its magic.
> 
> 
> Tom



As Tom has said, the calibration method i have champoined (original credit goes to *davoe*) is very potent indeed when dealing with integrating phase matched dual subs with the mains as it involves change the subwoofer distances in ARC. You really owe it to your self to try it. The results are superb indeed, imo as as others have attested to.


BUT, the subs must first be phase to each other before you start with this process. To do this, first volume calibrate both subs to read combined 75dB by setting each to about 72-73dB by adjusting their volume knobs the back. To phase match the subs, I normally set the phase knob of one sub to 0 degrees. I then, using ARC's quick measure tool and slowly adjust the phase of the second sub till i get the best or flattest and widest frequecy response with the minimum of nulls and peaks. Please disable or bypass any crossovers in the sub. This is extremely critical.


also please have a test CD or other signal source that hs the ability to plays single frequency sources from 60Hz to 100hz, preferrabley in 5 hz increments. I normally use freeware software frequency sources from the internet. You might have something else similat.


Here's the link"
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630 I preffer the NULL method as its easier to use using an RS meter. Willing to help iron out any issues you might have







.


Here's another helpful link that involved a paper by top scientists from Harman Hardon on optimal subwoofer placement positions for 1,2 4 .etc subs. In a nutsheel, 4 subs is best,2 subs will give you at least 95% of the 4 -sub performance. And no real improvement beyond 4. That is a 16-sub room gives the same performance as a 4 sub room. An easy and good read indeed...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=32580


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/20139817
> 
> 
> I've also had many music audio drop outs on different CDs. I have a media player and CD/DVD player both digitally connected to my AVM 50v. I get drop outs at the same place on a track whether it's played via the original CD or the ripped file on the media player. Press pause/play or de-select/select the input on the AVM gets the music back.
> 
> 
> If I connect them both via analogue cables the problem doesn't occur which seems to indicate its the AVM 50v DAC that's the problem. However, I want to use the AVM DAC.
> 
> 
> I've never had any audio drop outs from either the CD/DVD when playing a DVD or my blu-ray (HDMI connected) or my satellite box (digitally connnected).
> 
> 
> The problem only started when I upgraded firmware from 2.8 to 2.10 (also tried 2.10c). Reported this to Anthem last October but they don't seem very interested.



If the audio is going out and STAYING out indefinitely (until you Pause/Play) then that suggests to me that the algorithm for rejecting bogus digital audio input streams has triggered incorrectly. Once triggered it apparently keeps the audio muted until the audio stream is interrupted (e.g, Pause/Play, change of audio format, or new HDMI handshake).


I'd suggest you get in touch with Anthem again, remind them that the same portion of the disc plays without problem over analog from that player (meaning the player is not having trouble reading the disc), and offer to loan them that disc so they can confirm/fix the problem. If you can get the problem to happen on that specific disc using more than one player, that would also be good to tell them. If the problem happens on only one player then that suggests the player really is putting out bad digital audio for some reason. (I.e., that the Anthem is "doing the right thing" to protect your speakers.)

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Overall, your charts look good. The only problem I see, which you have pointed out and is working on, is with your sub



Are you referring to the charts that show the results after I tweaked them? Looks like going by peoples comments that I'm going to have to reposition these and I'm very room restricted and just can't see them fitting anywhere else or use a SVS AS EQ unit to help better the result.



> Quote:
> I have a very brand new-still-in-the-box-unopened AS EQ that i could sell you. PM me if you want it.



Thank you for your kind offer. I'm based in Australia and we run on 240v not 110v plus I know the importer here and he can get me a great price. I'm not sure if these units have universal power supplies? Once again thanks for your offer and your advice and the links. So you know these subs do not have a phase knob on them.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20140546
> 
> 
> Are you referring to the charts that show the results after I tweaked them? Looks like going by peoples comments that I'm going to have to reposition these and I'm very room restricted and just can't see them fitting anywhere else or use a SVS AS EQ unit to help better the result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for your kind offer. I'm based in Australia and we run on 240v not 110v plus I know the importer here and he can get me a great price. I'm not sure if these units have universal power supplies? Once again thanks for your offer and your advice and the links. So you know these subs do not have a phase knob on them.



Yes, I was looking at your latest charts. I would not apply EQ to the problems that you are having. You will need to apply an awful lot of boost to fix those nulls which is absolutely what you should not do. If you are position restricted, then I suggest you just live with what you have. Based on your charts, I would say that you don't have your subs in the best position which is why your subs are falling off pretty badly after 40 Hz. In order to fix this problem, you need to reposition them. EQ should only be used as the last resort and to only cut peaks. If you need to boost, it should be very little boost. If you find yourself having to apply a lot of boost, then that's an indication you should probably experiment with positioning. Anyway, if you are satisfied with what you have, then just sit back and enjoy.


Edit: I just looked at your targets window and realized that your room gain is 0.400000. Did ARC set that or did you set that? If you set it, did you mean for it to be 4.000000? If so, the highest that I have ever seen ARC set room gain is 3.945749. So, I would not go higher than that; but, it's your system, so you are free to do as you please.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Edit: I just looked at your targets window and realized that your room gain is 0.400000. Did ARC set that or did you set that? If you set it, did you mean for it to be 4.000000? If so, the highest that I have ever seen ARC set room gain is 3.945749. So, I would not go higher than that; but, it's your system, so you are free to do as you please.



I changed the room gain from what you see here on the original chart to .4 so no it's wasn't 4000. To reposition these subs I will have to get longer power cords and signal cables then. I just can't see where else I could place them without having to walk around them or get in peoples way







. I am single so no WAF. Thanks again for your advice.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20140692
> 
> 
> I changed the room gain from what you see here on the original chart to .4 so no it's wasn't 4000. To reposition these subs I will have to get longer power cords and signal cables then. I just can't see where else I could place them without having to walk around them or get in peoples way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I am single so no WAF. Thanks again for your advice.



Ok. So, you will just have to live with what you have. I have to tell you though. You should've stuck with just one sub. Your chart, in this link http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post20138766 , looks better with just one sub than it looks now with two subs. Even though you still have the null after 40 Hz, it doesn't continue to drop off like it's doing now with both subs.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/20140742
> 
> 
> Ok. So, you will just have to live with what you have. I have to tell you though. You should've stuck with just one sub. Your chart, in this link http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post20138766 , looks better with just one sub than it looks now with two subs. Even though you still have the null after 40 Hz, it doesn't continue to drop off like it's doing now with both subs.



I agree as well. If this good bass graph is due to the one sub, then to make the best of this situation with two subs is to stack both subs, one on top of the other in that good location since their's no WAF involved. Re-measure and see what happens.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I agree as well. If this good bass graph is due to the one sub, then to make the best of this situation with two subs is to stack both subs, one on top of the other in that good location since their's no WAF involved. Re-measure and see what happens.



I like that









John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> If this good bass graph is due to the one sub, then to make the best of this situation with two subs is to stack both subs, one on top of the other in that good location since their's no WAF involved. Re-measure and see what happens.



Hmm the issue is I just got rid of my lowline unit and purchased an equipment rack and guess where that is placed...right where the sub used to be. Interesting idea about the stacking hadn't though of that. There is one other solution and I will try it is putting each sub into the front corners of the room with the front speakers on top. It will only raise them in height (main front speakers) by approx 2.5cm but at least one of the subs will be close to where i had it before (right side of room beside wall). The left side of the room doesn't have a solid wall only French Bi-Folding doors which are not solid timber which lead out to the hallway.


I can only try I guess but it's allot of moving especially the equipment rack which obviously has all my equipment in it including my Krell TAS amp (weights 40kgs). I would have to disconnect and take it off to move the rack. It's possible just time and effort.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20141367
> 
> 
> Hmm the issue is I just got rid of my lowline unit and purchased an equipment rack and guess where that is placed...right where the sub used to be. Interesting idea about the stacking hadn't though of that. There is one other solution and I will try it is putting each sub into the front corners of the room with the front speakers on top. It will only raise them in height (main front speakers) by approx 2.5cm but at least one of the subs will be close to where i had it before (right side of room beside wall). The left side of the room doesn't have a solid wall only French Bi-Folding doors which are not solid timber which lead out to the hallway.
> 
> 
> I can only try I guess but it's allot of moving especially the equipment rack which obviously has all my equipment in it including my Krell TAS amp (weights 40kgs). I would have to disconnect and take it off to move the rack. It's possible just time and effort.



Simon:


Placing mains on top of the subs calls for vibrations of the mains which brings awful coloration to the sound, unless you have an effective isolator or dampener to prevent the powerful sub vibrations from coupling through into the mains placed on top.


The ideal case is to place the sub in the original "good" posiiton and place your rack somwhere else, if possible. Good sound is hard to come by nowadays







.


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20141512
> 
> 
> Placing mains on top of the subs calls for vibrations of the mains which brings awful coloration to the sound, unless you have an effective isolator or dampener to prevent the powerful sub vibrations from coupling through into the mains placed on top.



I believe Simon has Seaton Sound SubMersives which are a dual opposed 15" configuration and thus are practically vibration free. Enough so you could use them as end tables if you wanted so putting speakers on top of them won't have the vibration issues of a normal SW although I've never heard of anybody doing this.


Simon, have to contacted Mark Seaton to get his input on this issue? He has a lot of experience setting up his products in all kinds of rooms and may be able to give you some of his thoughts.


----------



## SimonNo10

Just rearranged the room and moved the rack a bit and now have both subs in front corners of the room. Here is what quick measure is showing with both subs on and individual measurement per sub


What are your thoughts? Will wait for responses before proceeding with a full calibration.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20141711
> 
> 
> Just rearranged the room and moved the rack a bit and now have both subs in front corners of the room. Here is what quick measure is showing with both subs on.
> 
> 
> What are your thoughts? Will wait for responses before proceeding with a full calibration.



Doesn't look like nothing improved based on what I'm seeing from QM.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Doesn't look like nothing improved based on what I'm seeing from QM.



I've updated post above with individual results for each sub.


Here's a new chart (both subs on) with one sub rotated (front right) sitting along the side wall with one woofer towards the room the other to the front wall. The other sub has the woofers facing left and right to the room long ways. So no woofer towards the room.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20141744
> 
> 
> I've updated post above with individual results for each sub.
> 
> 
> Here's a new chart (both subs on) with one sub rotated (front right) sitting along the side wall with one woofer towards the room the other to the front wall. The other sub has the woofers facing left and right to the room long ways. So no woofer towards the room.



Sorry, I still don't see any improvement. I have attached my ARC chart for my sub as an example. I'm not saying that you have to get an as flat as a response as my subs which are Velodyne DD-18s; but, you should try to get as flat as a raw response (red) as you can.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I have attached my ARC chart for my sub as an example



Thanks. I can't in all positions that I am capable of doing get close to that response. I'm moving these subs on my own and it's getting difficult now. Here is the final place before I run ARC.


Not sure if it's going to sound good or not.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20141837
> 
> 
> Thanks. I can't in all positions that I am capable of doing get close to that response. I'm moving these subs on my own and it's getting difficult now. Here is the final place before I run ARC.
> 
> 
> Not sure if it's going to sound good or not.



Ok. Well, there's only one way to find out, and that's to run ARC and see what you get.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20141744
> 
> 
> I've updated post above with individual results for each sub.
> 
> 
> Here's a new chart (both subs on) with one sub rotated (front right) sitting along the side wall with one woofer towards the room the other to the front wall. The other sub has the woofers facing left and right to the room long ways. So no woofer towards the room.



Simon:


As Ninja said above, sad to say but there's no been an improvement in the sub response so far. Please be paitient and do not be discouraged.Finding optimum sub placements is a chore and it takes many many days to hone in on the right position(as least it was for me). This is where the links I sent you earlier would help. In a summary, here are the basic results

Position 1

Sub is placed 1/4W away from the side walls. That is, if your room width(W) is 8 feet, then place both subs 2 feet away from the left and right side walls.

Position 2

Front sub is placed in the middle or the center of the front wall. The second sub is placed center back wall, behind the listening position. This regarded by the Harman Kardon scientists as one of the best positions ever. Or place the two subs center of the side walls, facing each other. This is equivalent to the former and just as good. If you had 4 subs, then you'd place them at the center of each wall.


BUT in your case, you'll need to have a way to adjust phase for each sub. Since the submissives that you have do not have a phase knob(i really realy wonder why that's the case), then an AS EQ unit is in order.


As its been mentioned before by another poster, your subs are fighting each other or performing phase cancellation hence producing the poor frequency response you are seeing.



Without a way to adjust phase, i'd go with option 1. Its a very good start and a proven one by Dr O'Toole of the National Canadian Research Council. You can then tweak on from there but no far off. Do you have any bass traps to help tame some of the stubborn room mode? If not, I'd STOP for now until i get some. Many effective ones are also home decor friendly as well. Being that you are in Australia, I couldn't even guess to advise you where to buy some







.


Once again, please do not get discouraged. This is a field of laborof love and sweat unfortunately but with guaranteed results at the end of the road. Your toil is never in vain Simon!!!


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Once again, please do not get discouraged. This is a field of labor and sweat unfortunately but with guaranteed results at the end of the road. Your toil is never in vain Simon!!!



Thanks mate.To tell you the truth I was about to give in and just walk away as I've spent most of the day rearranging etc. I mean I don't have a dedicated HT room so I have to make do with what I have atm. I've sent a guy who is HAA Level 2 certified and has installed panels for me and he knows that I need bass traps. I hope he will call me next week to come out and we can see what can be done.


I'm spewing now that I sold my AS-EQ unit for $600 last year as a new one will cost me $999(AUD). I've been waiting for this 2nd submersive since last Aug2010 as part of a big aussie group buy and was hoping it would improve the bass region of my system and didn't realize it would be this difficult.


Anyway I won't give up and hopefully I can implement some bass traps and get that flat curve







or close to it. Thanks guys for your input and patience.


Final results after running a 6 position calibration. Any tips to improve these results within the software?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20141949
> 
> 
> Thanks mate.To tell you the truth I was about to give in and just walk away as I've spent most of the day rearranging etc. I mean I don't have a dedicated HT room so I have to make do with what I have atm. I've sent a guy who is HAA Level 2 certified and has installed panels for me and he knows that I need bass traps. I hope he will call me next week to come out and we can see what can be done.
> 
> 
> I'm spewing now that I sold my AS-EQ unit for $600 last year as a new one will cost me $999(AUD). I've been waiting for this 2nd submersive since last Aug2010 as part of a big aussie group buy and was hoping it would improve the bass region of my system and didn't realize it would be this difficult.
> 
> 
> Anyway I won't give up and hopefully I can implement some bass traps and get that flat curve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or close to it. Thanks guys for your input and patience.
> 
> 
> Final results after running a 6 position calibration. Any tips to improve these results within the software?



Ha!!! You've spent a what? A mere day!!! Many of us here at AVS will laugh with you as we know it takes many daaayyyyyzzzzz to get this thing right







.


Seriously, with the exception of the roll of seen in the sub(which has excellent and wide frequency response) what you have in the mains ans surrounds is excellent as ARC seems to have corrected most of it. I would suggest the following in your graphs:


1. Manually raise your room to between 2.0 - 3.0 and watch for the ripples or wiggles in the calculated response. Their amplitude shouldn't be more than +/- 1 dB at most. Know that movies are mixed with the assumption that they'll be played in rooms with gains between 2 -3 dB.


2. Your speakers are good to 10KHz so raise yout ARC cutoff from 5K to 10K. Again, watch for the smoothness of the calculated frequencies. If the errors are greater than 1 dB as mentioned above, back off from 10k in 500Hz increments till you get a response that is satisfactory.


Anytime, you get a response thatyou think is satisfactory, give it a listen for a while with a wide variery of well-known music since your EARS are the final judge in all things audio (damn the specs, i'd say







).


You're within sight of your goals. I know the feeling of spending lots of $$$ of audio and only to panick when you think your hard earned money was a precious waste







. But ofcourse, this won't be in your case for i smell victory anytime soon here







.



Good luck and God Speed!

David



PS

As i offered earlier, I have a new ASEQ but its 120V/60Hz. If your dealer can "mod" it to 240V/50Hz, its yours for the taking for a reasonable price







.

I'll take my nap for the night now. Its 11:40pm







.


----------



## dmusoke

Probably like many of us here, I have my movies and music settings identically set in the targets graphs menu. But when calculate for the new solution i want and examine the movies and music graphs, they are NOT identical. It seems the target frequencies are different between the two modes. In my case I set my targets really low at 400Hz for the movie amd music modes, mainly to eliminate the excessive room caused bass hump. But when i examine both movie and mode plots, the movie has the 400Hz target as intended but the music has a different all together. It seems as though it ignore my targets settings.


Anyone seen this? Please check as its real easy to do. Is it an ARC error or a graphing error?


Thanks,

David


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> . Manually raise your room to between 2.0 - 3.0 and watch for the ripples or wiggles in the calculated response. Their amplitude shouldn't be more than +/- 1 dB at most. Know that movies are mixed with the assumption that they'll be played in rooms with gains between 2 -3 dB.
> 
> 
> 2. Your speakers are good to 10KHz so raise yout ARC cutoff from 5K to 10K. Again, watch for the smoothness of the calculated frequencies. If the errors are greater than 1 dB as mentioned above, back off from 10k in 500Hz increments till you get a response that is satisfactory.



Ok I increased the room gain to 2.0 and noticed that the sub's calculated curve dropped allot and found that it looked much better with the gain as is or even a tad lower. I changed the crossover value of the mains and rears to 80 as that smoothed out their curves as well as I noticed especially with the rear left that between 40-50hz the calculated curve was dropping. I remember Bob saying to watch that area closely when making ajustments to the speakers and watch for changes in that range. I hope I remembered that correctly.


Anyway here are the results of minor tweaking.



> Quote:
> If the errors are greater than 1 dB as mentioned above, back off from 10k in 500Hz increments till you get a response that is satisfactory



Forgive my noobyness but how do I read that/notice on the graphs?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I increased the room gain to 2.0 and noticed that the sub's calculated curve dropped allot and found that it looked much better with the gain as is or even a tad lower. I changed the crossover value of the mains and rears to 80 as that smoothed out their curves as well as I noticed especially with the rear left that between 40-50hz the calculated curve was dropping. I remember Bob saying to watch that area closely when making ajustments to the speakers and watch for changes in that range. I hope I remembered that correctly.
> 
> 
> Anyway here are the results of minor tweaking.
> 
> 
> Forgive my noobyness but how do I read that/notice on the graphs?



At this point put on a movie and let rip. If you have some familiar LFE material put your feet up and see how it sounds.









John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20142470
> 
> 
> At this point put on a movie and let rip. If you have some familiar LFE material put your feet up and see how it sounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I agree...let us know how it sounds to you with familiar LFE material







.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20142208
> 
> 
> Ok I increased the room gain to 2.0 and noticed that the sub's calculated curve dropped allot and found that it looked much better with the gain as is or even a tad lower. I changed the crossover value of the mains and rears to 80 as that smoothed out their curves as well as I noticed especially with the rear left that between 40-50hz the calculated curve was dropping. I remember Bob saying to watch that area closely when making ajustments to the speakers and watch for changes in that range. I hope I remembered that correctly.
> 
> 
> Anyway here are the results of minor tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forgive my noobyness but how do I read that/notice on the graphs?



I don't think increasing your room gain is going to work as long as you have those nulls in the fronts from 100-250hz. ARC would have to apply too much boost. Moving them inches might help but I know you said you couldn't move them.


If you want to experiment with the phase on your sub you could reverse the speaker wires.


----------



## MACCA350

FYI, those JTR LCR responses of Simon's aren't solely due to room issues, they are primarily due to the natural response of the speakers themselves, near field measurements are almost identical. Near field measurements show they are within the +\\-3dB spec so I deduce they are Jeff's intended design.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> At this point put on a movie and let rip. If you have some familiar LFE material put your feet up and see how it sounds



I tried Ironman2 with the main bass scenes and I'm very happy with what I heard. The flyby and the battle at the end had very strong bass. Also tried Inception and that sounded terrific and had me jumping in a few scenes and bass filled the room easily and sounded nice.


One quick question. If I've set the Line Level to -10 (75db at main listening position) before calibrating what is my reference level on the main volume on the Anthem? Is it still "0" or is it "-10"?


Of course things can be improved and I will hopefully be implementing some bass traps very soon. Once again thanks guys for the assist and your input it's been invaluable.


The journey continues







.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20144613
> 
> 
> I tried Ironman2 with the main bass scenes and I'm very happy with what I heard. The flyby and the battle at the end had very strong bass. Also tried Inception and that sounded terrific and had me jumping in a few scenes and bass filled the room easily and sounded nice.
> 
> 
> One quick question. If I've set the Line Level to -10 (75db at main listening position) before calibrating what is my reference level on the main volume on the Anthem? Is it still "0" or is it "-10"?
> 
> 
> Of course things can be improved and I will hopefully be implementing some bass traps very soon. Once again thanks guys for the assist and your input it's been invaluable.
> 
> 
> The journey continues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Good to hear that you are enjoying what you are hearing so far. I'm sure you will enjoy it a lot more once you get your subs dialed in. I know I did.


As for the reference level, it looks like your charts are coming in around 65db to 68db which means when the D2v's volume is set on -10, you will be getting between 65db - 68db. Now, if you want reference level, you will need to increase the line level to cause the ARC charts to read 75db. It will probably be 74db because ARC will probably set the Reference Level Offset to -1. Anyway, if you increase your line level to get a 74db or 75db reading, then when you set your volume to -10, you will be getting 75db. When you set your volume to 0, you will be getting 85db which would be reference level.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20142139
> 
> 
> Probably like many of us here, I have my movies and music settings identically set in the targets graphs menu. But when calculate for the new solution i want and examine the movies and music graphs, they are NOT identical. It seems the target frequencies are different between the two modes. In my case I set my targets really low at 400Hz for the movie amd music modes, mainly to eliminate the excessive room caused bass hump. But when i examine both movie and mode plots, the movie has the 400Hz target as intended but the music has a different all together. It seems as though it ignore my targets settings.
> 
> 
> Anyone seen this? Please check as its real easy to do. Is it an ARC error or a graphing error?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



Please anyone?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20144613
> 
> 
> I tried Ironman2 with the main bass scenes and I'm very happy with what I heard. The flyby and the battle at the end had very strong bass. Also tried Inception and that sounded terrific and had me jumping in a few scenes and bass filled the room easily and sounded nice.
> 
> 
> One quick question. If I've set the Line Level to -10 (75db at main listening position) before calibrating what is my reference level on the main volume on the Anthem? Is it still "0" or is it "-10"?
> 
> 
> Of course things can be improved and I will hopefully be implementing some bass traps very soon. Once again thanks guys for the assist and your input it's been invaluable.
> 
> 
> The journey continues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Great news indeed Simon







and nice to see you relaxed a bit now







.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> As for the reference level, it looks like your charts are coming in around 65db to 68db which means when the D2v's volume is set on -10, you will be getting between 65db - 68db. Now, if you want reference level, you will need to increase the line level to cause the ARC charts to read 75db. It will probably be 74db because ARC will probably set the Reference Level Offset to -1. Anyway, if you increase your line level to get a 74db or 75db reading, then when you set your volume to -10, you will be getting 75db. When you set your volume to 0, you will be getting 85db which would be reference level.



Well I used my Analogue SPL meter (attached to tripod) and it was reading 75db when I set the line level to -10, so I don't know why ARC is showing 65db on the charts? If I increase the line level the spl meter will show it over 75db, so maybe my meter is out and need calibrating (Macca did this for about a year ago).


----------



## studlygoorite

Quote:

Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* 
Well I used my Analogue SPL meter (attached to tripod) and it was reading 75db when I set the line level to -10, so I don't know why ARC is showing 65db on the charts? If I increase the line level the spl meter will show it over 75db, so maybe my meter is out and need calibrating (Macca did this for about a year ago).
There is a glitch with ARC's graphs for the lucky few of us in that even if our level is set to 75dbs our ARC graphs show 65-70dbs. This has been confirmed by Bob and others and it has been said that there is nothing to worry about.


John


----------



## ninja12

Quote:

Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* 
There is a glitch with ARC's graphs for the lucky few of us in that even if our level is set to 75dbs our ARC graphs show 65-70dbs. This has been confirmed by Bob and others and it has been said that there is nothing to worry about.


John
I thought Anthem fixed that problem in the previous release. Are you saying that it's still happening for some folks?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/20146565
> 
> 
> I thought Anthem fixed that problem in the previous release. Are you saying that it's still happening for some folks?



I have not heard that it is fixed and my graphs are off also while running the latest ARC.


----------



## MrKegFlex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrKegFlex* /forum/post/19665184
> 
> 
> I've pretty much given up on the 8300HD via HDMI and did the component/coax route, I can live with that. The oppo is still a strange problem and I would like to get that working. I confirmed with both anthem and oppo that the settings are correct and neither knows why I can get dolby digital stereo with lpcm but not dts-hd or trueHD. Anthem thinks the oppo isn't sending the signal for those. Oppo says they do. Oppo says that if I hook straight to the tv and get audio for lpcm dts-hd/trueHD, then the oppo is working fine. Anthem says that isn't a valid test, not sure I understand the technical side well enough to know why.
> 
> 
> The anthem has 1.47f loaded by anthem when they did the benchtest and the oppo has the latest official version. I'm debating if reloading the firmware on the anthem and bumping up the oppo to the current beta would be worth my while. It's been an interesting couple of days.



I wanted to follow up on this in case somebody else encounters this frustrating problem to track down. In my case, it turned out to be a ribbon cable that was not firmly seated into the dsp board of the Anthem. Still seems odd to me that it affected it that way but I'm not sure what is carried on the different lines of the ribbon cable and why I experienced the odd combination of working/non-working audio.


Would something like this affect my ARC calibration? Just wondering if I need to redo it.


----------



## MACCA350

Here's another


Muted Sound

The Very Best of the Doors (AU version barcode 9325583042232)

Disc 1

Track 9

Timestamp 10:00

100% repeatable. Stop or pause/play to fix.


cheers


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20147468
> 
> 
> i have not heard that it is fixed and my graphs are off also while running the latest arc.



+1


----------



## SimonNo10

I've listened to some more movies and I feel that the main speakers (front stage+Rears ) don't sound as dynamic as I know they can be. Initially ARC set the crossover to 70 (front 3 mains and 90 Rears) and I changed them to 80 (Mains only) and now they just sound flat to me. I have uploaded the original settings late last night and will have a listen. I may have spoken too soon as the system after listening to content that I know very well just sounds lifeless and less involving after tweaking the original results. I'm not experienced enough in the ways of speaker reponse and interpreting the graphs and what to look for in improving them and what I need to change in a positive way.


One week to go and I'm on 3 weeks leave and I've arranged to get the same guy that has installed ceiling diffsusor panels to have a look at the ARC graphs and see what we can do regarding the bass.


----------



## p.las

hello.

is there anybody that can tell me, how my AVM 50 handles DTS hd regards dialog norm? from what i can tell, all THX aproved processor turn down the volume 4db, when the incomming audio is DTS HD. But after have seing a lot of movies, i think that DTS HD is allways very loud(-20 db and the dialog is very loud/house chaking) true hd i feel is more ballanced (aprox -15db)on the MV. Dial norm is only in use , when the incomming audio is bitstream. i have tryided to play DVE essentials, dts pink noise. It dosent matter if its pcm or bitstream , the sound pressure is the same. As i can understand, when the audio is bitstream, the Anthem shout turn the volume down 4 db, but it dosent. my bd player is Oppo bdp 83. Any comments?

regards Peter

edit: when it is a real movie its sounds like bitstream from my oppo is louder than pcm. It shout have bee the another way around. but maby its just becurse that bitstream sound more open, and not louder


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20167969
> 
> 
> hello.
> 
> is there anybody that can tell me, how my AVM 50 handles DTS hd



The AVM 50 does not handle DTS-HD directly


----------



## SimonNo10

Well it's just gone 12.02am here in Aussie land and I've just finished rearranging my HT. I have now placed both subs along the wall where one sounded the best and moved the equipment rack to the front wall next to the front right speaker.


I'm too tired to do a calibration so will perform one tomorrow and see if this big change improves things. I tell you it's damm hard work moving 2 Submersives on your own so hope the effort pays off.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20167969
> 
> 
> hello.
> 
> is there anybody that can tell me, how my AVM 50 handles DTS hd regards dialog norm? from what i can tell, all THX aproved processor turn down the volume 4db, when the incomming audio is DTS HD. But after have seing a lot of movies, i think that DTS HD is allways very loud(-20 db and the dialog is very loud/house chaking) true hd i feel is more ballanced (aprox -15db)on the MV. Dial norm is only in use , when the incomming audio is bitstream. i have tryided to play DVE essentials, dts pink noise. It dosent matter if its pcm or bitstream , the sound pressure is the same. As i can understand, when the audio is bitstream, the Anthem shout turn the volume down 4 db, but it dosent. my bd player is Oppo bdp 83. Any comments?
> 
> regards Peter
> 
> edit: when it is a real movie its sounds like bitstream from my oppo is louder than pcm. It shout have bee the another way around. but maby its just becurse that bitstream sound more open, and not louder





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20168365
> 
> 
> The AVM 50 does not handle DTS-HD directly



I think what the Dr is trying to tell you is a AVM50 does not decode DTS-HD or Dolby TrueHD. Your OPPO BDP-83 will have to be set up to decode the sound files. Set the HDMI output at LPCM and Secondary Audio Off. Also the video has to be at 720P or greater.

The AVM 50 will then pass through the audio stream as HD.

The reason I think you hear an audio difference is if you have the OPPO set to bitstream you are hearing the default DTS or Dolby compressed codec not the HD codec.

It has also been recommended here on the forum that you turn the Anthem THX off.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20169077
> 
> 
> I think what the Dr is trying to tell you is a AVM50 does not decode DTS-HD or Dolby TrueHD. Your OPPO BDP-83 will have to be set up to decode the sound files. Set the HDMI output at LPCM and Secondary Audio Off. Also the video has to be at 720P or greater.
> 
> The AVM 50 will then pass through the audio stream as HD.
> 
> The reason I think you hear an audio difference is if you have the OPPO set to bitstream you are hearing the default DTS or Dolby compressed codec not the HD codec.
> 
> It has also been recommended here on the forum that you turn the Anthem THX off.










Correct - I don't have the time to Type That Much


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20169141
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Correct - I don't have the time to Type That Much



Since I hunt and peck it takes me a long time to type a message or reply.

At my age now sometimes I forget what I wanted to say


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20169077
> 
> 
> I think what the Dr is trying to tell you is a AVM50 does not decode DTS-HD or Dolby TrueHD. Your OPPO BDP-83 will have to be set up to decode the sound files. Set the HDMI output at LPCM and Secondary Audio Off. Also the video has to be at 720P or greater.
> 
> The AVM 50 will then pass through the audio stream as HD.
> 
> The reason I think you hear an audio difference is if you have the OPPO set to bitstream you are hearing the default DTS or Dolby compressed codec not the HD codec.
> 
> It has also been recommended here on the forum that you turn the Anthem THX off.



I dont use THX modes. My Anthem avm is brand new , and it dekoder DTS hd and true hd. My question is how it handles dialog norm on DTS audio.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20169325
> 
> 
> I dont use THX modes. My Anthem avm is brand new , and it dekoder DTS hd and true hd. My question is how it handles dialog norm on DTS audio.



Then you NEED to say AVM50v


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20169445
> 
> 
> Then you NEED to say AVM50v



Okay!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20170028
> 
> 
> Okay!



Otherwise people give the WRONG answer.


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *p.las* 
hello.

is there anybody that can tell me, how my AVM 50 handles DTS hd regards dialog norm? from what i can tell, all THX aproved processor turn down the volume 4db, when the incomming audio is DTS HD. But after have seing a lot of movies, i think that DTS HD is allways very loud(-20 db and the dialog is very loud/house chaking) true hd i feel is more ballanced (aprox -15db)on the MV. Dial norm is only in use , when the incomming audio is bitstream. i have tryided to play DVE essentials, dts pink noise. It dosent matter if its pcm or bitstream , the sound pressure is the same. As i can understand, when the audio is bitstream, the Anthem shout turn the volume down 4 db, but it dosent. my bd player is Oppo bdp 83. Any comments?

regards Peter

edit: when it is a real movie its sounds like bitstream from my oppo is louder than pcm. It shout have bee the another way around. but maby its just becurse that bitstream sound more open, and not louder
Your answers are HERE 

And explained fully on page 53 under " Dialog Normalization" of your AVM 50v User Manual


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok I completed a 6 position ARC cal and here are the results with subs in their new positions (along right side of wall at the front) where one sub had good response and sounded great.


Thoughts on these new results, any good?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok I completed a 6 position ARC cal and here are the results with subs in their new positions (along right side of wall at the front) where one sub had good response and sounded great.
> 
> 
> Thoughts on these new results, any good?



I'd be listening to this with some good LFE material because the solution for your sub looks very good. The measured could be better, ie the 50-80Hz region but time to give it a try.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20172057
> 
> 
> Ok I completed a 6 position ARC cal and here are the results with subs in their new positions (along right side of wall at the front) where one sub had good response and sounded great.
> 
> 
> Thoughts on these new results, any good?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20172154
> 
> 
> I'd be listening to this with some hood LFE material because the solution for your sub looks very good. The measured could be better, ie the 50-80Hz region but time to give it a try.
> 
> John



My observations which may lack some validity since I am not a Audio PRO.


I question the response cutoff points from the ARC target screen. The sub drops off at about 90 to 100hz and your R/F L/F speakers are cutting off around 150hz.

Maybe check the Anthem AVM via the setup screen and see what the crossover points are really set at.

Also have you tried setting the sub to flat instead of auto and you do not have a any room gain ?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I'd be listening to this with some hood LFE material because the solution for your sub looks very good



Well I did and I'm very happy with what I heard. I tried Dire Straits-Brother in Arms SACD and Pink Floyd-DSOTM SACD and it sounded just like when I had the one sub in that position. Very nice tight bass. Not sold on the sound coming from the center channel sounds a bit on the harsh side but will try some movies and hear what the dialogue sounds like. So far it sounds great.



> Quote:
> Also have you tried setting the sub to flat instead of auto and you do not have a any room gain ?



I haven't touched the results and there's no room gain. Also i haven't tried the flat setting as yet as I wanted to listen to the original settings ARC produced.



> Quote:
> Maybe check the Anthem AVM vis the setup screen and see what the crossover points are really set at.



Will do


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok I checked the settings on the D2v itself and they are as follows:


Mains:85hz


Center:75hz


Surrounds:90hz


Sub:85hz


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20172642
> 
> 
> Ok I checked the settings on the D2v itself and they are as follows:
> 
> 
> Mains:85hz
> 
> 
> Center:75hz
> 
> 
> Surrounds:90hz
> 
> 
> Sub:85hz



Having not tried experimenting with the crossovers does anyone know if Simon

were to lower the mains to say 65hz and raise the sub to 90hz and rerun ARC would he get better integration of the sub at 100 to 150hz.

Or should he just set the crossovers as suggested above and not rerun ARC and just try listening to the results ?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20173879
> 
> 
> Having not tried experimenting with the crossovers does anyone know if Simon
> 
> were to lower the mains to say 65hz and raise the sub to 90hz and rerun ARC would he get better integration of the sub at 100 to 150hz.
> 
> Or should he just set the crossovers as suggested above and not rerun ARC just and just try listening to the results ?



The changes have to be made in ARC. Changing them in the setup doesn't matter as ARC does not listen to the settings but calculates them and then sets them during the upload of the ARC solution. I don't recommend making changes to ARC calculations. I would like to see Simon get some room gain but with the nulls in the range of the gain hump ARC cannot apply that much boost so it leaves it as zero. As he stated before he can't move his front speakers to see if they might remove the dip.


----------



## Audio Man

I have D2. I upgrade arc 3.0 but my microphone did not work at all with that.

It give me error message that my microphone is for serial number....

I copy cal files(arc 1.0) and it still did not recognise my microphone.

I only have arc 1.0 which does work but it have problems to measure my subs. It boost them over 10dp and it sounds incorrect to me. I was going back and fort these arc 1.0 and 3.0 for whole day. I really do not know what to do. I newer have these problems before.I should have stay arc 2.4 which was fine. Sorry my English! This is my first post. I hope someone could help me.


Thanks!


----------



## obie_fl

Audio Man - You likely have to copy your mic files from your original CD.


See if this post by Bob helps.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audio Man* /forum/post/20175632
> 
> 
> I have D2. I upgrade arc 3.0 but my microphone did not work at all with that.
> 
> It give me error message that my microphone is for serial number....
> 
> I copy cal files(arc 1.0) and it still did not recognise my microphone.
> 
> I only have arc 1.0 which does work but it have problems to measure my subs. It boost them over 10dp and it sounds incorrect to me. I was going back and fort these arc 1.0 and 3.0 for whole day. I really do not know what to do. I newer have these problems before.I should have stay arc 2.4 which was fine. Sorry my English! This is my first post. I hope someone could help me.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I'm not sure if this is your problem, but with the new ARC, while it is setting up, a window will come up on the screen. Your mic serial number will be on the top line of this pop-up window. You need to click on your mic serial number, then click on 'OK' (or 'enter' or 'continue'- I'm going from memory so please forgive me).

This was a change from the earlier versions and it confused me during my first use of 3.0, and I think I got the same message you are getting before I figured out I had to select my mic serial# in that box.


If you did click on your mic serial#, and it still didn't work then there may be something else going on.


Hope this helps,


Tom


----------



## Audio Man

Thank you very much. I did not understand that pop-up window. I newer seen it before.

I think it was sign that my microphone is wrong. I even emailed tech support and they did not say anything about it. Lets see what arc 3.0 could do...

You save my day!!!


----------



## Audio Man

Arc 3.0 give me better results what I could think is possible in such a small room what I have. Subs was my problem before.The sub curve used to look like hill now it is first time straight down to 20hz!!!


----------



## dmusoke

Bob and all:


I saw this in section 3.4 in the manual and was confused.


"*Bypass LFE Crossover*:.

.

.

.


With BYPASS LFE XOVER set to Yes, LFE goes to the subwoofer without going through the crossover, *preventing loss of LFE information*. This also applies to the 6-Ch input (effectively an LFE input)."


By default, this setting is set to No in the Anthem menu. Why wouldn't one set it to Yes to pass all LFE info to the sub? It seems the default setting doesn't pass all LFE to the sub by default.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke*
Bob and all:


I saw this in section 3.4 in the manual and was confused.


"Bypass LFE Crossover:.

.

.

.


With BYPASS LFE XOVER set to Yes, LFE goes to the subwoofer without going through the crossover, preventing loss of LFE information. This also applies to the 6-Ch input (effectively an LFE input)."


By default, this setting is set to No in the Anthem menu. Why wouldn't one set it to Yes to pass all LFE info to the sub? It seems the default setting doesn't pass all LFE to the sub by default.
LFE Bypass is one of the older-style EQ settings that is ignored if you are using ARC (both during Measurement and when listening to any Source with Room EQ ON).


ARC provides its own, more sophisticated solution to this problem.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* 
LFE Bypass is one of the older-style EQ settings that is ignored if you are using ARC (both during Measurement and when listening to any Source with Room EQ ON).


ARC provides its own, more sophisticated solution to this problem.

--Bob
Thanks for the quick response Bob:


So there's no chance of my sub NOT getting all the LFE content its supposed to get when ARC is turned on?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke*
Thanks for the quick response Bob:


So there's no chance of my sub NOT getting all the LFE content its supposed to get when ARC is turned on?
If your sub's top end looks good up to near 120Hz in ARC then you are fine for high LFE. Your sub's low end determines the lower extension of LFE it can reproduce.


The LFE Bypass setting is ignored with ARC.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi Bob glad to see you back. Any chance you could look at my latest ARC graphs and offer some suggestions?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audio Man* /forum/post/20177237
> 
> 
> Arc 3.0 give me better results what I could think is possible in such a small room what I have. Subs was my problem before.The sub curve used to look like hill now it is first time straight down to 20hz!!!



Glad you got it working.


Post your new ARC charts here.

There may be some suggestions that others may have on ways to further improve your results.


Be sure to post your 'targets' page along with your movie/music graphs.


Tom


----------



## buttecreeker

I currently am running a McIntosh MX-132, pre/pro, with all my source components audio outputs via analog mutichannel and analog stereo. I listen to alot of mutichannel music, mostly DVD-A, some Bluray and a handful of SACD titles.

My source components are; an Oppo 83se, a Tosh A-35 HD-DVD, a McIntosh MVP851 DVD-A, a McIntosh MLD 7020 laserdisk player( yep still have one of these), as well as an B&O turntable.

I use a Zektor mutichannel 7.1 analog audio/HDMI video switcher for switching audio to the pre/pro multichannel inputs, and the video to a DVDO HD+ scaler/switcher then out to a monitor and a 1080p projector.

Between the pre/pro and the amps(main=McIntosh MC352, Surrounds=Belles400, and center=Adcom GFA555II), is an Outlaw ICBM bass management unit with crossover settings from 40Hz to120Hz ( in 20Hz increments) for 6 channels. all directed to a Velodyne DD-18 sub. (I do use the sub to augment the


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buttecreeker* /forum/post/20179539
> 
> 
> I currently am running a McIntosh MX-132, pre/pro, with all my source components audio outputs via analog mutichannel and analog stereo. I listen to alot of mutichannel music, mostly DVD-A, some Bluray and a handful of SACD titles.
> 
> My source components are; an Oppo 83se, a Tosh A-35 HD-DVD, a McIntosh MVP851 DVD-A, a McIntosh MLD 7020 laserdisk player( yep still have one of these), as well as an B&O turntable.
> 
> I use a Zektor mutichannel 7.1 analog audio/HDMI video switcher for switching audio to the pre/pro multichannel inputs, and the video to a DVDO HD+ scaler/switcher then out to a monitor and a 1080p projector.
> 
> Between the pre/pro and the amps(main=McIntosh MC352, Surrounds=Belles400, and center=Adcom GFA555II), is an Outlaw ICBM bass management unit with crossover settings from 40Hz to120Hz ( in 20Hz increments) for 6 channels. all directed to a Velodyne DD-18 sub. (I do use the sub to augment the


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20180550
> 
> 
> Dave:
> 
> 
> I upgraded to a D2v promarily for the analog sound quality and the upsampling to 192Ksamples/sec for all analog and digital inputs. I also have an Oppo SE as my primary movie and music source and listen to the MCH outputs for audio. The SQ is simply superb in my opinion. I have compared the HDMI and MCH outputs and can't tell the difference in their sound which really suprised me. They are both equally superb and neutral! This implies the ADCs in the D2v are completely transparent and will not subtract or add to the sound from your music source. Its very transparent. You won;t go wrong at all going with the flagship processor. And the BTW, ARC is simply to die for and the audio & video switching flexibility is simply amazing. Google D2v reviews and get some from Anthems website! These processors are rarely found on audiogon and if you manage to find one, they go fast, wthin 2 weeks or less!
> 
> 
> Give yourself a gift and try the D2v. I'm convinced you'll not regret it one bit!
> 
> 
> 
> - David
> 
> 
> PS
> 
> Be prepared to let go of the Zektor switch and Outlaw BM system for the D2v will best them all.... and then some! The DVDO HD+ scaler will have some serious competition form the Gennum processor in the Anthem as well.



Not sure the Zektor, which I also use, will go, as he has several MCH devices with MCH analog outputs and the D2v only has 1 set of MCH analog inputs.


----------



## buttecreeker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20180550
> 
> 
> Dave:
> 
> 
> I upgraded to a D2v promarily for the analog sound quality and the upsampling to 192Ksamples/sec for all analog and digital inputs. I also have an Oppo SE as my primary movie and music source and listen to the MCH outputs for audio. The SQ is simply superb in my opinion. I have compared the HDMI and MCH outputs and can't tell the difference in their sound which really suprised me. They are both equally superb and neutral! This implies the ADCs in the D2v are completely transparent and will not subtract or add to the sound from your music source. Its very transparent. You won;t go wrong at all going with the flagship processor. And the BTW, ARC is simply to die for and the audio & video switching flexibility is simply amazing. Google D2v reviews and get some from Anthems website! These processors are rarely found on audiogon and if you manage to find one, they go fast, wthin 2 weeks or less!
> 
> 
> Give yourself a gift and try the D2v. I'm convinced you'll not regret it one bit!
> 
> 
> 
> - David
> 
> 
> PS
> 
> Be prepared to let go of the Zektor switch and Outlaw BM system for the D2v will best them all.... and then some! The DVDO HD+ scaler will have some serious competition form the Gennum processor in the Anthem as well.



Thanks for your reply. I have read a number of reviews for this piece, as well as the MX-150 and the Classe SSP. Most of the D2v reviews I read, seemed to only be using the HDMI inputs for audio and video. I am tending to lean towards the D2v, though (I would like the video processing and switching in one unit, as well as the bass mngemnt/room correction).

Did I understand you correctly; do you use the analog mch outs from your source, then using the mch inputs on the D2v, convert the signal back into digital in the D2v for bass mangemnt and room correction processing? If so, do you also use the analog stereo outs from your sources, as well? I realize you stated you had compared the HDMI in to the analog mch in's and could not tell the difference, just would like to be clear where you ended up. I was hoping to eliminate cabling if it wasn't detrimental to SQ. BTW, if read an AVS review correctly, he rather liked the use of the digital input as apposed to the HDMI input, for audio.


Dave


----------



## buttecreeker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20180732
> 
> 
> Not sure the Zektor, which I also use, will go, as he has several MCH devices with MCH analog outputs and the D2v only has 1 set of MCH analog inputs.



Since you use the analog mch ins as well (with multiple source pieces), do you use the bass mngemnt/room correction features, of the D2v, for all your analog mch and stereo listening? Do you use the Zektor for HDMI video switching in conjunction with the analog audio switching?


Thanks, Dave


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buttecreeker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Since you use the analog mch ins as well (with multiple source pieces), do you use the bass mngemnt/room correction features, of the D2v, for all your analog mch and stereo listening? Do you use the Zektor for HDMI video switching in conjunction with the analog audio switching?
> 
> 
> Thanks, Dave



You can't use ARC with analog signals unless you set the D2v to Analog DSP.

John


----------



## buttecreeker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20184025
> 
> 
> You can't use ARC with analog signals unless you set the D2v to Analog DSP.
> 
> John



Do you feel there is any SQ benefit in using analog in signals, with "Analog DSP", over using HDMI or digital audio inputs?

Dave


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20184025
> 
> 
> You can't use ARC with analog signals unless you set the D2v to Analog DSP.
> 
> John



Correct, so you can then feed the analog stereo and 6 channel S/E inputs into the D2v for pure analog and then set up multiple input sources under the DVD,TV or Sat inputs and use the D2v ARC or bass management. This also enables you to add your sub woofer to your Stereo or MCH audio listening if you desire.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buttecreeker* /forum/post/20183888
> 
> 
> Since you use the analog mch ins as well (with multiple source pieces), do you use the bass mngemnt/room correction features, of the D2v, for all your analog mch and stereo listening? Do you use the Zektor for HDMI video switching in conjunction with the analog audio switching?
> 
> 
> Thanks, Dave



See my response above for you first question about Room correction and bass mgmt.

I have only used the Zektor for the MCH analog switching it provides.

I have not found that the HDMI audio output sounds as good as analog or the other digital connection techniques.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buttecreeker* /forum/post/20184245
> 
> 
> Do you feel there is any SQ benefit in using analog in signals, with "Analog DSP", over using HDMI or digital audio inputs?
> 
> Dave



Yes, I hear a significant amount of differences that I consider an improvement.

And it allows you to hear and use the analog signal without any A/D conversion and then compare it to the D2v DSP sound with or without ARC.

Also if you have a audiophile source such as an external DAC or an upgraded Oppo etc you can hear it with out any digital conversion or the added sound difference of the Anthem DAC.

The methods you can use are almost unlimited with the D2v.If you want I can go into more detail about how I use the Anthem


----------



## buttecreeker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20185104
> 
> 
> Yes, I hear a significant amount of differences that I consider an improvement.
> 
> And it allows you to hear and use the analog signal without any A/D conversion and then compare it to the D2v DSP sound with or without ARC.
> 
> Also if you have a audiophile source such as an external DAC or an upgraded Oppo etc you can hear it with out any digital conversion or the added sound difference of the Anthem DAC.
> 
> The methods you can use are almost unlimited with the D2v.If you want I can go into more detail about how I use the Anthem



The D2v does seem to be a very versatile pre/pro. I primarily use my McIntosh MVP851 for all of my 2 channel and DVD-A mch listening, via all analog outs (I prefer the DAC's in the MVP851 over my MX-132 pre/pro). I do use my sub to augment the lows, below 40Hz, with my OHM Walsh 4's. So I am always utilizing the Outlaw ICBM bass mngemnt device. The ICBM is between the pre/pro and the amps. I would like to relieve this device of its duties, as well as all the extra interconnects. It would seem that I would be using the "Analog DSP", in the D2v, to maintain the similar setup that I have now (for speaker crossover/ bass redirection). I guess I am concerned that going D/A (in the source), then A/D/A (in the D2v), would be a detriment to the audio signal with all this back and forth converting of signals.

The D2v seems to be the answer, so far.


Thanks again for your input. I'll consume all info that is offered, to help with my decision process.


Dave


----------



## audioguy

I am evaluating a 3 or 4 possible SSP's and the Anthem is on the list. However, I was told by an individual on another forum (who says he is an Anthem dealer) that there is no target curve editor with this product. Is that correct?


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *audioguy* 
I am evaluating a 3 or 4 possible SSP's and the Anthem is on the list. However, I was told by an individual on another forum (who says he is an Anthem dealer) that there is no target curve editor with this product. Is that correct?
Yes, he's correct in that regard but you can always change the solution hat ARC gives you by changing the calculated gains, corrected frequency range and crossover frequencies. In most cases, you leave the xovers alone but can always change the room gain and ARC corrected frequency range.


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *buttecreeker* 
Thanks for your reply. I have read a number of reviews for this piece, as well as the MX-150 and the Classe SSP. Most of the D2v reviews I read, seemed to only be using the HDMI inputs for audio and video. I am tending to lean towards the D2v, though (I would like the video processing and switching in one unit, as well as the bass mngemnt/room correction).

Did I understand you correctly; do you use the analog mch outs from your source, then using the mch inputs on the D2v, convert the signal back into digital in the D2v for bass mangemnt and room correction processing? If so, do you also use the analog stereo outs from your sources, as well? I realize you stated you had compared the HDMI in to the analog mch in's and could not tell the difference, just would like to be clear where you ended up. I was hoping to eliminate cabling if it wasn't detrimental to SQ. BTW, if read an AVS review correctly, he rather liked the use of the digital input as apposed to the HDMI input, for audio.


Dave
BC:


Yes, i do use stero and MCH analog outs for most of my listening from the 83SE which has the high quality ESS DACs. Since the A/D's in the D2v are very transparent and my room is small and 'difficult' to say the least, i use ARC with the analogs to produce my sound. I have bass traps in my room which helped a great deal but still, i find that direct analog is de-graded by the room and have to use ARC in analog-DSP mode to bring the smile back to my face. I have compared Analog-DSP to HDMI with ARC and to my ears, I can't hear any de-gradation in sound. In fact, i like te sound of the analog _better_ in the majority of cases! i know it doesn't make sense that the repeated A/D/Acycles within the D2v sounds even more musical to me but oh well, there it is! The imaging and 3-dimensionality i get is more appealing to me. This is the heritage of the ESS DACs on the 83SE from Oppo. The D2v faithfully obeys the old computer G-I-G-O axiom (garbage-in-garbage out). You feed it a high-quality signal, you'll be highly rewarded and ofcourse, the converse is true.


I use HDMI audio for the cable TV broadcasts only... I can't imagine pulling another cable just to listen to lossy and compressed audio







.


----------



## buttecreeker

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke* 
BC:


Yes, i do use stero and MCH analog outs for most of my listening from the 83SE which has the high quality ESS DACs. Since the A/D's in the D2v are very transparent and my room is small and 'difficult' to say the least, i use ARC with the analogs to produce my sound. I have bass traps in my room which helped a great deal but still, i find that direct analog is de-graded by the room and have to use ARC in analog-DSP mode to bring the smile back to my face. I have compared Analog-DSP to HDMI with ARC and to my ears, I can't hear any de-gradation in sound. In fact, i like te sound of the analog _better_ in the majority of cases! i know it doesn't make sense that the repeated A/D/Acycles within the D2v sounds even more musical to me but oh well, there it is! The imaging and 3-dimensionality i get is more appealing to me. This is the heritage of the ESS DACs on the 83SE from Oppo. The D2v faithfully obeys the old computer G-I-G-O axiom (garbage-in-garbage out). You feed it a high-quality signal, you'll be highly rewarded and ofcourse, the converse is true.


I use HDMI audio for the cable TV broadcasts only... I can't imagine pulling another cable just to listen to lossy and compressed audio







.
Thanks for all the great feedback, from everyone. Really appreciated!

I was hoping to be able to eliminate many of my interconnects, but I certainly don't want to degrade the sound quality for the sake of less interconnects (which, btw, are already in place).

Are you also using the analog mch out (of your 83se) for Bluray movie audio, and let the 83se decode the hi-res codecs? I have an 83se, as well, that I use for SACD and Bluray music and movies. In order for my channel levels to be correct, I needed to lower the front, center, and rear channels in the 83se, then boost the sub channel to even things out (without going to the ceiling, for the sub level, or to the basement for any of the other level adjustments).

Would it be wise to leave these settings (in the 83se) where they are, prior to using the ARC system? Or, set everything back to zero and let the ARC make up the differences?


Dave


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *buttecreeker* 
Thanks for all the great feedback, from everyone. Really appreciated!

I was hoping to be able to eliminate many of my interconnects, but I certainly don't want to degrade the sound quality for the sake of less interconnects (which, btw, are already in place).

Are you also using the analog mch out (of your 83se) for Bluray movie audio, and let the 83se decode the hi-res codecs? I have an 83se, as well, that I use for SACD and Bluray music and movies. In order for my channel levels to be correct, I needed to lower the front, center, and rear channels in the 83se, then boost the sub channel to even things out (without going to the ceiling, for the sub level, or to the basement for any of the other level adjustments).

Would it be wise to leave these settings (in the 83se) where they are, prior to using the ARC system? Or, set everything back to zero and let the ARC make up the differences?


Dave
I have the Oppo 83Se also and have it connected four ways.

HDMI for BD and DVD video and audio.

Analog to the Anthem for stereo - Analog direct or Analog DSP

Digital stereo to an external DAC then to the Anthem - Analog direct or Analog DSP

Multichannel analog to the Anthem -6 channel SE

I know its a lot of cables but it allows me to use different audio setups.

I let the Oppo decode the BD discs and feed PCM to the Anthem via HDMI.

I would set the audio levels back to default or zero. The audio levels should be OK since you will be setting the base level in ARC and ARC will preset the levels for every speaker.


If after setting up ARC you find you need to set individual speaker volume levels you can set the Frt, Cntr,Side,Rear and Sub levels individually with the Anthem D2 remote or front panel for each source.


----------



## buttecreeker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20187145
> 
> 
> I have the Oppo 83Se also and have it connected four ways.
> 
> HDMI for BD and DVD video and audio.
> 
> Analog to the Anthem for stereo - Analog direct or Analog DSP
> 
> Digital stereo to an external DAC then to the Anthem - Analog direct or Analog DSP
> 
> Multichannel analog to the Anthem -6 channel SE
> 
> I know its a lot of cables but it allows me to use different audio setups.
> 
> I let the Oppo decode the BD discs and feed PCM to the Anthem via HDMI.
> 
> I would set the audio levels back to default or zero. The audio levels should be OK since you will be setting the base level in ARC and ARC will preset the levels for every speaker.
> 
> 
> If after setting up ARC you find you need to set individual speaker volume levels you can set the Frt, Cntr,Side,Rear and Sub levels individually with the Anthem D2 remote or front panel for each source.



Is there any benefit to having the Oppo decode Bd codecs, instead of bitstreaming them to the D2v and decoding them there?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buttecreeker* /forum/post/20188416
> 
> 
> Is there any benefit to having the Oppo decode Bd codecs, instead of bitstreaming them to the D2v and decoding them there?



Not sure anyone has scientifically proved there was any difference.

I believe Bob Pariseau once stated he preferred the Oppo do the decoding.

You could possibly say the Oppo has many more current updates of the firmware and may be able to process it better.

Try either and decide.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buttecreeker* /forum/post/20188416
> 
> 
> Is there any benefit to having the Oppo decode Bd codecs, instead of bitstreaming them to the D2v and decoding them there?



As *thestewman* has said - there is no difference in recorded sound quality.


HOWEVER, there is one difference. Sometime Movie makers insert sounds

generated when surfing menus or other out-of-band actions that are not

part of the movie content. If the Player does the decoding, then you get

both sets of sound. If the AVR does the decoding, you only get the bitstream

sound.


At the end of the day - the recorded sound content is the same.


----------



## buttecreeker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20188487
> 
> 
> Not sure anyone has scientifically proved there was any difference.
> 
> I believe Bob Pariseau once stated he preferred the Oppo do the decoding.
> 
> You could possibly say the Oppo has many more current updates of the firmware and may be able to process it better.
> 
> Try either and decide.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20188558
> 
> 
> As *thestewman* has said - there is no difference in recorded sound quality.
> 
> 
> HOWEVER, there is one difference. Sometime Movie makers insert sounds
> 
> generated when surfing menus or other out-of-band actions that are not
> 
> part of the movie content. If the Player does the decoding, then you get
> 
> both sets of sound. If the AVR does the decoding, you only get the bitstream
> 
> sound.
> 
> 
> At the end of the day - the recorded sound content is the same.



Thanks for the clarification! Armed with all this great info, I should get off the fence and purchase a D2v and start enjoying it!

When I purchase (new or used), should I try too look for a specific post build date or version#? I'm not sure if I'm remembering correctly if it was the D2v or the Classe ssp-800, but I seem to recall something regarding the main controller board being upgraded and the color of the board changing from blue to red, or visa versa. My memory is a little cloudy, I've been reading about many pre/pro's and reviews.


Dave


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buttecreeker* /forum/post/20189037
> 
> 
> Thanks for the clarification! Armed with all this great info, I should get off the fence and purchase a D2v and start enjoying it!
> 
> When I purchase (new or used), should I try too look for a specific post build date or version#? I'm not sure if I'm remembering correctly if it was the D2v or the Classe ssp-800, but I seem to recall something regarding the main controller board being upgraded and the color of the board changing from blue to red, or visa versa. My memory is a little cloudy, I've been reading about many pre/pro's and reviews.
> 
> 
> Dave



I believe all the board changes and colors where for the D2 not the D2v.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I believe all the board changes and colors where for the D2 not the D2v.



That is correct.

John


----------



## buttecreeker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20189060
> 
> 
> I believe all the board changes and colors where for the D2 not the D2v.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20189212
> 
> 
> That is correct.
> 
> John



Thanks again.

Dave


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20170676
> 
> 
> Your answers are HERE
> 
> And explained fully on page 53 under " Dialog Normalization" of your AVM 50v User Manual



i have read the manual. what i dont understand is. if i play dve essentials...pink noise. , i can see that there is a dial norm +4 off set. this is when my Oppo player outputs bitstream . from what i now dial norm only kicks inn, when the incomming signal is bitstream. if i change the output to PCM there shut not be any dial norm , and by nature there will be a difference when i messaure wiht my radio shack around 4 db. but there isent.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Dialog Normalization meta-data is handled by whichever device is doing the decoding. When you use Bitstream, that's the Anthem. When you use LPCM, that's the player. Thus it is correct that there is no difference.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20193509
> 
> 
> The Dialog Normalization meta-data is handled by whichever device is doing the decoding. When you use Bitstream, that's the Anthem. When you use LPCM, that's the player. Thus it is correct that there is no difference.
> 
> --Bob



Okay









Thanks for the clarifikation


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20193509
> 
> 
> The Dialog Normalization meta-data is handled by whichever device is doing the decoding. When you use Bitstream, that's the Anthem. When you use LPCM, that's the player. Thus it is correct that there is no difference.
> 
> --Bob



I have tryed to compared bitstream vs pcm. First impresion is that bitstream is louder. I have measured it .....its the same level. I Think that bitstream is more upfront. And pcm more....analog. My teenange daughter Can clearly hear the difference. My AMP is a Lexicon gx-7 and speaker M&K s150. What dó you prefered?

Regards Peter

Denmark


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi Bob.when you get a chance can you have a look at my current ARC results and offer some suggestions;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post20172057 


Post number 32849. Thanks


----------



## rovingtravler

I received my Brand New AVM50v (non-1.4a version) yesterday. I was able to unpack it and check to make sure everything was there and working, but have not changed out the old B&K REF 30. Yes it was past time to upgrade. I should have time tonight to at least put into the rack and connect everything. Oppo BDP-93, Moto HD DVR, Panamax UPC, 7.1 speaker setup, and Runco Q-750i projector.


I plan to truely set up the pre/pro this weekend.

Should I update firmware and ARC before doing anything or should I get the basics done then update?


Any tips for a newbie starting out?

I have a laptop that I will be installing the ARC software on.


Thanks,


----------



## tngiloy

Quote:

Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* 
I received my Brand New AVM50v (non-1.4a version) yesterday. I was able to unpack it and check to make sure everything was there and working, but have not changed out the old B&K REF 30. Yes it was past time to upgrade. I should have time tonight to at least put into the rack and connect everything. Oppo BDP-93, Moto HD DVR, Panamax UPC, 7.1 speaker setup, and Runco Q-750i projector.


I plan to truely set up the pre/pro this weekend.

Should I update firmware and ARC before doing anything or should I get the basics done then update?


Any tips for a newbie starting out?

I have a laptop that I will be installing the ARC software on.


Thanks,
My guess is that it will come with the latest firmware loaded on your AVM50v, but you can check and see what is loaded by tuning on the unit and after it goes thru its initial power up, pressing the 'select' button on the Anthem remote. It will display the firmware version on the front panel display with one push of 'select'. The lastest official firmware is v2.10.

I would do this before hooking up any of the HDMI cables to your AVM50v because its a good idea to disconnect the HDMI cables during firmware upgrades.


Since I own a D2 I'll let the AVM50v owners chime in if it would be wise for you to use the latest beta firmware, which is available on Anthem's password protected site. You will have to get the password from Anthem Tech support. You should probably just use the official firmware unless you are having problems and Anthem Tech support specifically advises you to try a beta.



There was a post by Nick from Anthem a while back that they were starting to include a Keyspan usb/serial adapter with the pre/pro's. If you didn't get one, then order one right away. The model is Keyspan USA -19hs. You will need this if your laptop to do all firmware upgrades and ARC runs/uploads, unless your laptop has a serial port.


Once you get every thing hooked up and are ready to run ARC you can check back here if you have any questions.


And don't forget to check the first page of this thread. There are many links that can answer many questions. Most of the info in those links are from Bob P., our resident guru.


Good luck. We're here to help you if you need it.


Tom


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tngiloy* 
Since I own a D2 I'll let the AVM50v owners chime in if it would be wise for you to use the latest beta firmware,



Tom
As a NEW Owner - *rovingtravle* - should ONLY USE Beta FW to SOLVE

SOME PROBLEM. Use you AVM50v *AS IS*







and enjoy


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20203108
> 
> 
> As a NEW Owner - *rovingtravle* - should ONLY USE Beta FW to SOLVE
> 
> SOME PROBLEM.



And only at the suggestion of AnthemTech Support. As I said before. But if I wasn't clear, _*only use beta firmware if advised to do so by Anthem Tech Support.*_As a D2 owner I don't know the shortcomings, if any, of the AVM50v firmware that other AVM50v owners may know about.
*I only know about the shortcomings of the D2 firmware and I am still patiently waiting for the long promised, but as yet unreleased, new official D2 firmware.* But lets not get into a discussion of v1.33 vs. v1.47f again.



> Quote:
> Use you AVM50v *AS IS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and enjoy



That is if *AS IS* means its loaded with the latest official firmware. If not then upgrade to v2.10 and then enjoy.


Tom


----------



## rovingtravler

Tom,


Thanks. I will check and see what the firmware is and what version of the ARC is on the disc. Mine did not come with a USB to Serial connector/adapter, however, I have one due to my Q-750 only having serial and not USB for firmware and DDC and interactive calibration in Calman 4.2.


I did see the front page, but with so many links I figured I would the basic questions first... especially since the 50 has been out for a while and things continue to change.


----------



## Surfrider

So, tonight I managed to completely fry my Denon 4308 AVR at some high volume listening to 2ch. I need to completely replace it, but the current Denon lineup leaves a lot to be desired. Considering I have Paradigm Signature S8, C5, ADP, and Sub25 I would like to step up the entire platform to something like the D2V / P5. The issue I have with spending that kind of cash is lack of HDMI 1.4 for 3D (which I currently dont have). I have read through the last dozen pages and seem to be under the impression its to be released soon? Will this be a revision, or all new model?


Please help, as I really am caught off guard by this equipment failure and had no intention of buying anytime soon. I am quite out of the loop as far as whats upcoming in tech.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Surfrider* /forum/post/20203945
> 
> 
> So, tonight I managed to completely fry my Denon 4308 AVR at some high volume listening to 2ch. I need to completely replace it, but the current Denon lineup leaves a lot to be desired. Considering I have Paradigm Signature S8, C5, ADP, and Sub25 I would like to step up the entire platform to something like the D2V / P5. The issue I have with spending that kind of cash is lack of HDMI 1.4 for 3D (which I currently dont have). I have read through the last dozen pages and seem to be under the impression its to be released soon? Will this be a revision, or all new model?
> 
> 
> Please help, as I really am caught off guard by this equipment failure and had no intention of buying anytime soon. I am quite out of the loop as far as whats upcoming in tech.



3-D from Anthem will come via an upgrade of the video board for the AVM50v/D2v sometime this summer or early fall. Since these units have 8 HDMI inputs and 2 outputs, word is that one board(4 HDMI channels) will be 3-D compliant. So 4 inputs and 1 output will be HDMI 1.4 compliant and the rest will remain HDMI 1.3 compliant as they are now. The MRX receivers are already 3D compliant.


David


----------



## jbua5150

Can D2v pass HDMI video without scaling?

Is there a mode to have analog audio stay analog?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jbua5150* /forum/post/20204638
> 
> 
> Can D2v pass HDMI video without scaling?
> 
> Is there a mode to have analog audio stay analog?



yes and yes


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20204714
> 
> 
> yes and yes



Video is not a true pass through. It is processed.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20203922
> 
> 
> Tom,
> 
> 
> Thanks. I will check and see what the firmware is and what version of the ARC is on the disc. Mine did not come with a USB to Serial connector/adapter, however, I have one due to my Q-750 only having serial and not USB for firmware and DDC and interactive calibration in Calman 4.2.
> 
> 
> I did see the front page, but with so many links I figured I would the basic questions first... especially since the 50 has been out for a while and things continue to change.



Not all serial/usb adapters are created equal.

You are welcome to try your present adapter with your AVM50v, but if it doesn't work, get the Keyspan USA 19-hs (actually made by Tripplite now).

There is a reason that Anthem recommends it, and is now including it with its pre/pro's- It works. Not all adapters do.

I'm just saying.


Because its such an intregal peice when using the Anthem processors many dealers stock thr Keyspan. It can also be purchased from Anthem or online computer supply stores (Newegg, etc) for around $30.


Tom


----------



## baddgsx

hi friends,


whats the main differences between the 50v and d2v besides price tag and looks. both have very similar specs. Both seam like aswome units



are the XLR outputs truely balanced like the denon avp-1 unit? my marantz has xlr but is not a true balanced design.



thanks,


Chris


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/20204781
> 
> 
> Video is not a true pass through. It is processed.



I was under the impression that if the D2v received a 1080p/24 signal, it does nothing to it. For lesser resolutions it might be good to have the D2v or AVM50v do the scaling since the video processor is excellent.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *baddgsx* /forum/post/20205609
> 
> 
> hi friends,
> 
> 
> whats the main differences between the 50v and d2v besides price tag and looks. both have very similar specs. Both seam like aswome units
> 
> 
> 
> are the XLR outputs truely balanced like the denon avp-1 unit? my marantz has xlr but is not a true balanced design.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> 
> Chris



The Anthem site lists the specs for both units so it would be easier for you to take a look at that. As well, there is a lot of other info about the build quality and components.

John


----------



## baddgsx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20205740
> 
> 
> The Anthem site lists the specs for both units so it would be easier for you to take a look at that. As well, there is a lot of other info about the build quality and components.
> 
> John



ive been to their site and come to the impression that both use the same hardware and same software.


Two dual-core digital signal processing (DSP) engines, our own design, offer a total of 800 MIPS , do both units use the same DSP chipset?


Yes , they both are true balanced.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *baddgsx* /forum/post/20206024
> 
> 
> ive been to their site and come to the impression that both use the same hardware and same software.



If you are not a techie and can not tell the difference - then by the 50v


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20205730
> 
> 
> I was under the impression that if the D2v received a 1080p/24 signal, it does nothing to it. For lesser resolutions it might be good to have the D2v or AVM50v do the scaling since the video processor is excellent.
> 
> John



All video goes through the processor. You are probably not doing any scaling or frame rate conversion but any picture settings you have are applied. You could probably have it do nothing different but it will still be going through the video processing circuits.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *baddgsx* /forum/post/20206024
> 
> 
> ive been to their site and come to the impression that both use the same hardware and same software.
> 
> 
> Two dual-core digital signal processing (DSP) engines, our own design, offer a total of 800 MIPS , do both units use the same DSP chipset?
> 
> 
> Yes , they both are true balanced.


----------



## baddgsx

tell me techie what difference do you see?


This is what i found.


the anthem D2v has a 24bit/192khz precision upsampler that operates on all digital auido signals. the 50v does not do this. could it? probably since i think this is software related and the 50v seems to have the same chipset as the d2v


the other thing i found was THD+N (at rated input and output)

analog dsp-inputs at24/48 or 24/96 .004% D2v and .006% 50v


dont need this since i use hdmi everything


and


imd (ccif at 15khz and 16khz) analog direct inputs


----------



## xMEATx

I believe there is a difference in the DACs and ADCs in the two units. I debated at length as you are, but I have been very impressed with the D2v and have never looked back.


----------



## AVfile

Right, the chipset is different. At this point I think the debate has more to do with listeners tastes and aesthetics than anything. Some people like the sound of upsampling DACs, some don't. Some people prefer Brand X to Brand Y...


If you also have a dedicated audio system with hi-end gear that is separate from your HT (as I do) you should consider that.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *baddgsx* /forum/post/20206311
> 
> 
> tell me techie what difference do you see?
> 
> 
> This is what i found.
> 
> 
> the anthem D2v has a 24bit/192khz precision upsampler that operates on all digital auido signals. the 50v does not do this. could it? probably since i think this is software related and the 50v seems to have the same chipset as the d2v
> 
> 
> the other thing i found was THD+N (at rated input and output)
> 
> analog dsp-inputs at24/48 or 24/96 .004% D2v and .006% 50v
> 
> 
> dont need this since i use hdmi everything
> 
> 
> and
> 
> 
> imd (ccif at 15khz and 16khz) analog direct inputs


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/20206267
> 
> 
> All video goes through the processor. You are probably not doing any scaling or frame rate conversion but any picture settings you have are applied. You could probably have it do nothing different but it will still be going through the video processing circuits.



Does anyone know which setting for "COLOR SPACE" in the VIDEO OUT CONFIG menu will act as a pass-thru? If I have my source set to YCbCr (4:2:2) will "AUTO" keep it that way or convert it to something else such as RGB (depending on what the display reports as being optimal)?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20207643
> 
> 
> Does anyone know which setting for "COLOR SPACE" in the VIDEO OUT CONFIG menu will act as a pass-thru? If I have my source set to YCbCr (4:2:2) will "AUTO" keep it that way or convert it to something else such as RGB (depending on what the display reports as being optimal)?



Your source color space must match the output config color space as well, which shuold match the preferrd display colorspace as well. You can guarantee this by specifically telling it to use the 4:2:2 color space.


----------



## baddgsx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20207547
> 
> 
> See this post for the differences ...
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post15546653



super helpful!!! thanks


----------



## rovingtravler

OK. So I hooked everything up with my New AVM50v. I have an Oppo BDP-93 using HDMI 1 connected to HDMI 1 on the AVM.


It is very slow with the handshake with the projector. I am running a long length 35 ft so I am not suprised, however, running direct from the oppo there are no issues what so ever.


I finally was able to figure out that I have dolby, DTS, DD, Stereo and Mono

I DO NOT have DTS HD or Dolby HD.


I have gone through the menus for HDMI and Audio etc. I cannot figure out why the AVM will see the digital but not decode HD audio.


Any ideas?


I did a factory restore of the default setting on my OPPO 93 and made sure advanced was chosen for the audio option. The AVM sees the oppo goes through a bunch of changes and finally picks digital. As long as I have a BD movie on DD or DTS I have sound.


As soon as I change it to DTS HD or DD-HD it either stays on digital and gets no sound or it goes to PCM and no sound. The only sound is a lot of clicking as thought he AVM is looking for the audio, but it never finds it.


Is the AVM broken? I am frustrated!!!


I have now tried HDMI 2 out of the oppo with video direct to the projector and same result. The AVM clicks and hisses but no audio with HD audio.


Everything works if I use LPCM, but I bought this because I did not want LPCM I wanted to bitstream.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *baddgsx* /forum/post/20206311
> 
> 
> the anthem D2v has a 24bit/192khz precision upsampler that operates on all digital auido signals. the 50v does not do this. could it? probably since *i think this is software related* and the 50v seems to have the same chipset as the d2v



I will go out on limb here and say that the D series upsampling is not a merely a software\\firmware implementation but requires hardware support and is a significant reason for the price difference between the 2 pieces.

The upsampling requires buffering and re-clocking the input stream among other things.

Doing this entirely via software would require very a powerful generalized CPU to be fast enough.

Generally it's better\\faster\\more reliable\

ecessary to implement specialized hardware for this.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20207797
> 
> 
> Your source color space must match the output config color space as well, which shuold match the preferrd display colorspace as well. You can guarantee this by specifically telling it to use the 4:2:2 color space.



4:2:2 all the way then.


What about the DATA options... I guess it takes a bit longer to handshake when set to AUTO, and since nothing is 12-bit or 10-bit (deep color) might as well be set to OFF?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20209221
> 
> 
> OK. So I hooked everything up with my New AVM50v. I have an Oppo BDP-93 using HDMI 1 connected to HDMI 1 on the AVM.
> 
> 
> It is very slow with the handshake with the projector. I am running a long length 35 ft so I am not suprised, however, running direct from the oppo there are no issues what so ever.
> 
> 
> I finally was able to figure out that I have dolby, DTS, DD, Stereo and Mono
> 
> I DO NOT have DTS HD or Dolby HD.
> 
> 
> I have gone through the menus for HDMI and Audio etc. I cannot figure out why the AVM will see the digital but not decode HD audio.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> I did a factory restore of the default setting on my OPPO 93 and made sure advanced was chosen for the audio option. The AVM sees the oppo goes through a bunch of changes and finally picks digital. As long as I have a BD movie on DD or DTS I have sound.
> 
> 
> As soon as I change it to DTS HD or DD-HD it either stays on digital and gets no sound or it goes to PCM and no sound. The only sound is a lot of clicking as thought he AVM is looking for the audio, but it never finds it.
> 
> 
> Is the AVM broken? I am frustrated!!!
> 
> 
> I have now tried HDMI 2 out of the oppo with video direct to the projector and same result. The AVM clicks and hisses but no audio with HD audio.
> 
> 
> Everything works if I use LPCM, but I bought this because I did not want LPCM I wanted to bitstream.



Very frustrating. Are you sure there is no coax S/PDIF cable connected and the Digital Input preference is HDMI? From what you describe all formats should be working... maybe try another BD player before returning the Anthem.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20209221
> 
> 
> OK. So I hooked everything up with my New AVM50v. I have an Oppo BDP-93 using HDMI 1 connected to HDMI 1 on the AVM.
> 
> 
> It is very slow with the handshake with the projector. I am running a long length 35 ft so I am not suprised, however, running direct from the oppo there are no issues what so ever.
> 
> 
> I finally was able to figure out that I have dolby, DTS, DD, Stereo and Mono
> 
> I DO NOT have DTS HD or Dolby HD.
> 
> 
> I have gone through the menus for HDMI and Audio etc. I cannot figure out why the AVM will see the digital but not decode HD audio.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> I did a factory restore of the default setting on my OPPO 93 and made sure advanced was chosen for the audio option. The AVM sees the oppo goes through a bunch of changes and finally picks digital. As long as I have a BD movie on DD or DTS I have sound.
> 
> 
> As soon as I change it to DTS HD or DD-HD it either stays on digital and gets no sound or it goes to PCM and no sound. The only sound is a lot of clicking as thought he AVM is looking for the audio, but it never finds it.
> 
> 
> Is the AVM broken? I am frustrated!!!
> 
> 
> I have now tried HDMI 2 out of the oppo with video direct to the projector and same result. The AVM clicks and hisses but no audio with HD audio.
> 
> 
> Everything works if I use LPCM, but I bought this because I did not want LPCM I wanted to bitstream.



In your OPPO


Skip the Advanced setting and go to the setup menu and check these settings


For BD HD HDMI Bitstream audio output


Secondary audio set to OFF

Menu sound set to OFF

HDMI Audio set to Bitstream

SACD Output set to PCM

Your video output has to be 720p or higher also


You said you are using the Anthem HDMI 1 so all these settings would be using HDMI 1


In your Anthem AVM

Check the source setup

For example if you are going to watch the OPPO using DVD1

Use the remote or front panel and go to Source then DVD1 Source setup

Audio In should be Dig HDMI

Audio Dig should be NO


Also, have you setup the surround mode presets in setup menu 7f ?


----------



## rovingtravler

Stefan,


At this time I only have 1 HDMI cable connected to the Anthem no other audio or video cables.


Thestewman,


I checked again and have eveything the way you have it listed on both the oppo and the anthem. I also have the surround modes set correctly in the setup. Still no DTS-HD or Dolby-HD


----------



## MrKegFlex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20209221
> 
> 
> OK. So I hooked everything up with my New AVM50v. I have an Oppo BDP-93 using HDMI 1 connected to HDMI 1 on the AVM.
> 
> 
> It is very slow with the handshake with the projector. I am running a long length 35 ft so I am not suprised, however, running direct from the oppo there are no issues what so ever.
> 
> 
> I finally was able to figure out that I have dolby, DTS, DD, Stereo and Mono
> 
> I DO NOT have DTS HD or Dolby HD.
> 
> 
> I have gone through the menus for HDMI and Audio etc. I cannot figure out why the AVM will see the digital but not decode HD audio.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> I did a factory restore of the default setting on my OPPO 93 and made sure advanced was chosen for the audio option. The AVM sees the oppo goes through a bunch of changes and finally picks digital. As long as I have a BD movie on DD or DTS I have sound.
> 
> 
> As soon as I change it to DTS HD or DD-HD it either stays on digital and gets no sound or it goes to PCM and no sound. The only sound is a lot of clicking as thought he AVM is looking for the audio, but it never finds it.
> 
> 
> Is the AVM broken? I am frustrated!!!
> 
> 
> I have now tried HDMI 2 out of the oppo with video direct to the projector and same result. The AVM clicks and hisses but no audio with HD audio.
> 
> 
> Everything works if I use LPCM, but I bought this because I did not want LPCM I wanted to bitstream.



If you follow all the setup advice here in this forum and you are convinced everything is setup correctly, it's possible you may have a loose connector. I have an avm50 w/ARC and had a similar experience where I couldn't get the HD audio tracks to work at all over LPCM. I know you are experiencing your problem over bitstream but the problem sounds similar.


For me, I had a partially seated connector that is highlighted in the picture. Firmly reconnecting it fixed my problem. I would only do this after you are convinced you have your units setup properly in the menus.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrKegFlex* /forum/post/20210361
> 
> 
> If you follow all the setup advice here in this forum and you are convinced everything is setup correctly, it's possible you may have a loose connector. I have an avm50 w/ARC and had a similar experience where I couldn't get the HD audio tracks to work at all over LPCM. I know you are experiencing your problem over bitstream but the problem sounds similar.
> 
> 
> For me, I had a partially seated connector that is highlighted in the picture. Firmly reconnecting it fixed my problem. I would only do this after you are convinced you have your units setup properly in the menus.



Rovingtravler,

MrKegFlex may be right, but have your dealer open the hood on your AVM50v.

Bob P. made reference a while back that you need a grounding pad setup to safely work on the units. I don't know exactly what he was talking about, but I know I don't have one. I bet your dealer (CCA or BluNote?) does and can safely look inside your unit without voiding the warrantee.


Just a thought. I do remember hearing about there being 2 separate hdmi connections for hdmi 1-4, and 5-8 in on the Anthem D2v , and some people were experiencing problems with hdmi connections 1-4 that were fixed by using hdmi 5-8.

Probably not your problem, but easy to check out.


Bottom line is that if its not a setup problem (and it looks like you have it setup right) then let the dealer diagnose it and fix it.

I'm sure your anxious to get it running, but don't open your AVM50v up, unless Anthem Tech Support or your dealer tells you to.


Tom


----------



## rovingtravler

Dave,


Thank you. I also checked that this morning. I still have DTS and Dolby but no DTS-HD or Dolby-HD


I have tried three BD players including a laptop computer with no luck.


As soon as I change from Dolby to Dolby-HD the display shows PCM and will not lock. I have tried changing sources to FM-AM and then back againto DVD. No change, sometimes it will not even lock onto the video signal what bitstreaming HD audio.


----------



## tngiloy

Rovintravler,

If all of the above suggestions don't work, try switching from hdmi1 out to hdmi2 out on the Oppo93.

Its possible that the problem is in the Oppo. If it still doesn't work then you'll know the Oppo's OK, and the problem is in the AVM50v.

Isn't trobleshooting fun??


Tom


----------



## RobertR

I was reading the 50v owner's manual and it says that ARC senses each speaker's low end rolloff and sets high pass filters accordingly. Does anyone know for sure that this does NOT apply to the subwoofer? I don't want ANY low end rolloff.


One other thing I was thinking about that's not a question confined to ARC is, what effect does EQ have on locations other than the prime listening spot? Would different locations yield a significantly different response curve?


Edit: I see from the owner's manual that up to ten listening positions are measured.


This thread is a fabulous resource.


----------



## rovingtravler

Thanks guys.


I have tried HDMI 1 and 2 from the Oppo. I have also tried a Sony BD player and an HP computer. All have the same problem.


I have also tried HDMI 1 3 6 and 8 on the Anthem to see if there was a problem with the top board or the bottom. Of course I set all the setting each time I changed to a different HDMI on the AVM. I have changed HDMI cables as well. All worked with my other pre/pro and TV etc.


I think it is time to call Anthem and see what they have to say.


----------



## rovingtravler

Anyone else not able to get to the Anthem site right now?


----------



## eric-t




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20210905
> 
> 
> Anyone else not able to get to the Anthem site right now?



Cant get into Anthem or Paradigm


----------



## rovingtravler

I tried to update the firmware just to make sure the code was not damaged some how... yes a long shot, but I figured I would try.


I have done it 4 times now and I get either failed to update or Failed to Verify the update, however, the Anthem did go from 2.08 to 2.10 on the display.


I then rerun most of my test and still no HD audio.



Question: Is the firmware properly installed if the update does not verify, but the display reads the correct new version?


Thanks


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20211021
> 
> 
> Question: Is the firmware properly installed if the update does not verify, but the display reads the correct new version?Thanks



I'm not sure, but I would suggest getting a fresh download of v2.10 from the Anthem site (it was still down when I just checked).

Then, before uploading your firmware, temorarally turning off the firewall in your laptop during the upload.

The firewall seems to interfere with ARC, it may do the same when communicating with the Anthem during firmware uploads.


Tom


----------



## rovingtravler

Tom,


I will try turning off the firewall. I did not have any problems with ARC.. Actually I think my curves were decent considing I am in a rental house right now and the shape of the room (basement) is T, there is a boiler, etc. in the room.


Thanks


----------



## rovingtravler

Thanks to Tom and turning off the firewall in windows I was able to get past the Verify update failure. Since this is my first firmware update to the AVM I did not realize how much was left after that portion of the update. The next step was to update the DSPs, then the video processor. I am assuming, which is never a good thing, that going from 2.08 to 2.10 on only part of the firware caused a disconnect when trying to decode HD audio. Now that I am almost finished with the update, 35 mins, I am hopeful I will have a working pre/pro.


It was the mismatch between the firmware that casued the DSPs to not decode the HD Audio. Noweverything is working wonderfully.


Thank you all for your help!


----------



## RobertR

What is the length of the ARC microphone cable?


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eric-t* /forum/post/20210919
> 
> 
> Cant get into Anthem or Paradigm



These two sites are back up but now the tech support is down. I get redirected to a search site, anyone else?


----------



## eric-t




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/20213982
> 
> 
> These two sites are back up but now the tech support is down. I get redirected to a search site, anyone else?



I just clicked tech support in the Anthem site and got the form to fill out. So it is working on my end.


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eric-t* /forum/post/20213990
> 
> 
> I just clicked tech support in the Anthem site and got the form to fill out. So it is working on my end.



Sorry, the Beta tech support


----------



## studlygoorite

Quote:

Originally Posted by *RobertR* 
What is the length of the ARC microphone cable?



Approximately 17'


----------



## RobertR

Quote:

Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* 
Approximately 17'
Thanks!


----------



## dmusoke

When main speakers are 'checked' as full-range in ARC (whether they truly are or not), does that mean that the sub receives less amount of low frequencies for they've been diverted to the main speakers? Does the xover setting for these mains matter if they've been declared as full-range?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20216851
> 
> 
> When main speakers are 'checked' as full-range in ARC (whether they truly are or not), does that mean that the sub receives less amount of low frequencies for they've been diverted to the main speakers? Does the xover setting for these mains matter if they've been declared as full-range?



I think if you set your main speakers to full-range then that will cause ARC to not send any LF to your sub. Your mains will have to carry the full load.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/20218130
> 
> 
> I think if you set your main speakers to full-range then that will cause ARC to not send any LF to your sub. Your mains will have to carry the full load.



In a prior post by Bob P. he said there was still a rolloff below 25hz to the sub even with full range checked. The mains may measure well and look good in low freq. but not be able to produce these freq at volume.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/20218204
> 
> 
> In a prior post by Bob P. he said there was still a rolloff below 25hz to the sub even with full range checked. The mains may measure well and look good in low freq. but not be able to produce these freq at volume.



Yes, I thought I remember something about full-range and 25 Hz; but, is that only if you put in 25 Hz that the roll-off will happen? If you just check full-range and don't enter a value then I would think everything would be going to the mains. Honestly, I really don't know because I never check full-range.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/20218315
> 
> 
> Yes, I thought I remember something about full-range and 25 Hz; but, is that only if you put in 25 Hz that the roll-off will happen? If you just check full-range and don't enter a value then I would think everything would be going to the mains. Honestly, I really don't know because I never check full-range.



Funny he was actually responding to you

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...e#post18961167


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/20218326
> 
> 
> Funny he was actually responding to you
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...e#post18961167



LOL!!!! Thanks for finding the post. Well, I guess the answer is in Bob's response.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/20218353
> 
> 
> LOL!!!! Thanks for finding the post. Well, I guess the answer is in Bob's response.



So Common for Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20218361
> 
> 
> So Common for Bob



Isn't that the truth.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/20218130
> 
> 
> I think if you set your main speakers to full-range then that will cause ARC to not send any LF to your sub. Your mains will have to carry the full load.



Thanks Ninja...I had been checking my mains as 'full-range' only to find LF missing on stereo CD's. The Sub was silent on stereo recordings but came to life on MCH recordings. Drove me nuts for 2 days...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20218361
> 
> 
> So Common for Bob



Years from now I expect scholars will still be pouring over the ancient scrolls looking for additional nuggets of "received wisdom".









--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20226006
> 
> 
> Years from now I expect scholars will still be pouring over the ancient scrolls looking for additional nuggets of "received wisdom".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



As they SHOULD


----------



## jayray

CHANGE LIST


v2.11 release candidate:


1. Adjusted HDMI drive impedance to prevent audio dropouts in some situations.


John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20226014
> 
> 
> As they SHOULD



Hank,

Where do you get those icons? I think I have earned the right to post some of those little guys too









John


----------



## nrwatson

I dont seem to be able to log on to the site


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20226713
> 
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.11 release candidate:
> 
> 
> 1. Adjusted HDMI drive impedance to prevent audio dropouts in some situations.
> 
> 
> John



Where is it? (not here: http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software )


Does "dropouts" include snaps and crackles or just gaps of silence?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20226878
> 
> 
> Where is it? (not here: http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software )
> 
> 
> Does "dropouts" include snaps and crackles or just gaps of silence?



It's Beta software. You need to have the link and password sent to you by anthem.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20226878
> 
> 
> Where is it? (not here: http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software )
> 
> 
> Does "dropouts" include snaps and crackles or just gaps of silence?



Gaps of silience is a good definition









John


----------



## AVfile

Well I hope they fixed more than that! I have so many issues and having difficulty getting Tech Support to act on them.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20226719
> 
> 
> Hank,
> 
> Where do you get those icons? I think I have earned the right to post some of those little guys too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



When you quote his post, you can see the URL. Or right-click on the smiley and copy the image URL.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When you quote his post, you can see the URL. Or right-click on the smiley and copy the image URL.



Thanks Roger.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20228310
> 
> 
> Well I hope they fixed more than that! I have so many issues and having difficulty getting Tech Support to act on them.



Could you please enumerate some of the problems you are having? Just curious, that's all...


----------



## baddgsx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20228310
> 
> 
> Well I hope they fixed more than that! I have so many issues and having difficulty getting Tech Support to act on them.



im curious as well. u paid alot for their gear , you shouldnt have to be going through this.


----------



## thestewman

QUOTE=AVfile;20228310]Well I hope they fixed more than that! I have so many issues and having difficulty getting Tech Support to act on them.[/quote]



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20230228
> 
> 
> Could you please enumerate some of the problems you are having? Just curious, that's all...



Sorry for the negative aspect of this response but this has bothered me for sometime as a long time Anthem D2 and now a Sub 2 owner.


Does anyone else have problems having Anthem customer service respond to their questions or problems ?

I see a small select group of users appear to have a direct route to Anthem CS and get back here with answers within minutes and others wait and wait or get no response.


Am I wrong in this assessment ?


----------



## studlygoorite

I can tell you my brother and I both have a D2v and have HDMI handshake issues all the time. I have been through support and was told to use the #2 HDMI Output. I tried it and things were a little better but I missed the OSD. I am keeping quiet to see if this miracle cure that I mentioned a ways back will fix it. I should have this device in April.


John


----------



## rovingtravler

I had a good experience with tech support this past week. I called on the weekend and they called back about 11AM local on Monday. Of course it is hard to fix a pre/pro when you are at work










I was able to get everythinh in order once I got home.


I too do not like the handshake issues. Whay to long to lock, sound issues until it does lock and long silence inbetween. MY PJ locks onto signals very easily and extremely fast from the BD player... not so much from the AVM50v


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *rovingtravler*
I had a good experience with tech support this past week. I called on the weekend and they called back about 11AM local on Monday. Of course it is hard to fix a pre/pro when you are at work










I was able to get everythinh in order once I got home.


I too do not like the handshake issues. Whay to long to lock, sound issues until it does lock and long silence inbetween. MY PJ locks onto signals very easily and extremely fast from the BD player... not so much from the AVM50v
Just a suggestion, have you tried powering on in this sequence, pj or tv, Anthem and then source?

John


----------



## rovingtravler

I will now.. John,


I never had to with my other gear.


It is not just when starting but changes from menus to movie and back in BD. Used to take a fraction of a second now it is a good second.


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *rovingtravler*
I will now.. John,


I never had to with my other gear.


It is not just when starting but changes from menus to movie and back in BD. Used to take a fraction of a second now it is a good second.
This worked for start up but I very seldom get syncing issues, lucky I guess










John


----------



## AVfile

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke* 
Could you please enumerate some of the problems you are having? Just curious, that's all...
Here are the issues I can think of right now. My system is fairly simple. I have an AVM-50v shipped from the factory with v2.10 in August. I never touched the firmware, but I did enable ARC. I have 4 devices connected via HDMI only.
AVM fails to handshake with Pioneer DV-59AVi (reported to Anthem and firmware update of the Pioneer was suggested, thereby stalled). Player must be removed from system (unusable; but works in another system).
AVM causes Scientific Atlanta PVR to continuously cycle hard disk power even when both are in Standby (not yet reported to Anthem due to low priority/severity).
AVM sometimes powers-up with extremely low volume level (not yet reported since rare and power cycle fixes it).
Input signal not detected by AVM when source is outputting 4:4:4 or RGB while playing SD. AVM must be started before BDP for it to work in SD or HD (reported to Anthem but solution not found and deemed acceptable since it works with 4:2:2). Note: it was me that found the workaround and spent time characterizing the exact limitation (no recognition from Anthem).
Blasts of static noise from AVM when switching soundtracks with Toshiba HD-A35 (reported to Anthem and ignored, but I have not pushed this issue strongly).
No working LiveVideoSettingsEditor software for AVM-50v or D2v! I am unable to configure custom output resolutions and refresh rates as promised in the glossy brochures (reported to Anthem but ETA for new software not given, due to MRX products taking Engineering priority). UPDATE: Looks like Anthem will work with me to develop a custom solution but still no talk about the software.
Occasional random reboots (not yet reported since difficult to characterize and system recovers).


----------



## AVfile

Quote:

Originally Posted by *baddgsx* 
im curious as well. u paid alot for their gear , you shouldnt have to be going through this.
Thanks man. I've been a Sonic Frontiers customer for at least 10 years now. Still have about $10k worth of tube preamps in my other stereo which I love, so I respect the guys a lot and hope they will eventually come through for us.


----------



## AVfile

Quote:

Originally Posted by *thestewman* 
Sorry for the negative aspect of this response but this has bothered me for sometime as a long time Anthem D2 and now a Sub 2 owner.


Does anyone else have problems having Anthem customer service respond to their questions or problems ?

I see a small select group of users appear to have a direct route to Anthem CS and get back here with answers within minutes and others wait and wait or get no response.


Am I wrong in this assessment ?
Not quite. The responses are always very prompt and courteous. It's the quality of the information I have a problem with. Also I don't get the impression that they are actively tracking these problem reports on their end. That is something that would serve them well and pay off down the road.


It's OK if they don't know the answer! *I would rather hear* _"I've sent your findings to Engineering. They are swamped right now but will get to it in X weeks."_ or _"I have checked our problem report database and this issue has not been reported yet so I have entered a record, and will notify you if it comes up again."_ *than* _"Unplug the unit from your power bar."_ or _"I think Pioneer has a fix for this issue."_


I agree with you that certain individuals seem to be taken more seriously by Anthem. If I had the time to sit at home all day I would be calling them more often. I also understand they can't spend all day on the phone and get their work done too.


----------



## AVfile

Quote:

Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* 
It is not just when starting but changes from menus to movie and back in BD. Used to take a fraction of a second now it is a good second.
Check the Video Output Config. Using AUTO/AUTO/AUTO for the Format/Depth/Data options is slow because it takes longer to handshake with the display. I set mine to 4:2:2/HD and tried various settings for depth. That made it a *bit* faster.


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *AVfile*
Not quite. The responses are always very prompt and courteous. It's the quality of the information I have a problem with. Also I don't get the impression that they are actively tracking these problem reports on their end. That is something that would serve them well and pay off down the road.


It's OK if they don't know the answer! I would rather hear "I've sent your findings to Engineering. They are swamped right now but will get to it in X weeks." or "I have checked our problem report database and this issue has not been reported yet so I have entered a record, and will notify you if it comes up again." than "Unplug the unit from your power bar." or "I think Pioneer has a fix for this issue."


I agree with you that certain individuals seem to be taken more seriously by Anthem. If I had the time to sit at home all day I would be calling them more often. I also understand they can't spend all day on the phone and get their work done too.
I'm retired so yes it does make life easier, in more than one way









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Installed "test" firmware V2.11 in my D2v. Completed an initial sanity check. No problems. No surprises.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Installed "test" firmware V2.11 in my D2v. Completed an initial sanity check. No problems. No surprises.
> 
> --Bob



Same here. Ran some movies and nothing unexpected.

John


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Quote:

Originally Posted by *AVfile* 
Here are the issues I can think of right now. My system is fairly simple. I have an AVM-50v shipped from the factory with v2.10 in August. I never touched the firmware, but I did enable ARC. I have 4 devices connected via HDMI only.
AVM fails to handshake with Pioneer DV-59AVi (reported to Anthem and firmware update of the Pioneer was suggested, thereby stalled). Player must be removed from system (unusable; but works in another system).
AVM causes Scientific Atlanta PVR to continuously cycle hard disk power even when both are in Standby (not yet reported to Anthem due to low priority/severity).
AVM sometimes powers-up with extremely low volume level (not yet reported since rare and power cycle fixes it).
Input signal not detected by AVM when source is outputting 4:4:4 or RGB while playing SD. AVM must be started before BDP for it to work in SD or HD (reported to Anthem but solution not found and deemed acceptable since it works with 4:2:2). Note: it was me that found the workaround and spent time characterizing the exact limitation (no recognition from Anthem).
Blasts of static noise from AVM when switching soundtracks with Toshiba HD-A35 (reported to Anthem and ignored, but I have not pushed this issue strongly).
No working LiveVideoSettingsEditor software for AVM-50v or D2v! I am unable to configure custom output resolutions and refresh rates as promised in the glossy brochures (reported to Anthem but ETA for new software not given, due to MRX products taking Engineering priority). UPDATE: Looks like Anthem will work with me to develop a custom solution but still no talk about the software.
Occasional random reboots (not yet reported since difficult to characterize and system recovers).

*Pioneer 59:*

Yes, unless latest firmware is installed all around there is no point in pursuing any issue. If you reported this in 2006 we would have been all over it with the software of its day but I don't know what happened to the '59 we had then, and after spending a whole year doing little more than fixing other peoples' HDMI problems during those early days we just gave up, mostly because source component problems were taken care of at the source. There's hardly been a problem with any DVD or Blu-ray player introduced since then. (Video cards are another story.)

*PVR constant reboot:*

Sounds familiar but I haven't heard of this in a while. Let tech support know all the details starting with model number and cable provider, and PVR software build if possible. There may already be a solution from either end.

*Low power-on volume:*

Known but due to rare occurence it's unpredictable therefore hard to fix.

*4:4:4 from BDP player:*

I don't understand why you see 4:2:2 as a workaround not a fix. If this setting did not exist initially it the adding it would have been viewed as a godsend. Various settings exist for a reason and nothing says they all must work. Why the insistence on using 4:4:4? DVD and Blu-ray are recorded at 4:2:0.

*Blasts of noise from HD-DVD player:*

As far as I know this occurs with pause or scan on all Toshiba HD-DVD. I hope you can understand that fixing an issue more or less isolated to HD-DVD is not a priority.

*LVSE:*

Actually you were given a suggestion two months ago

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=32252 


but since you mention the projector type, what exactly does 1:1 pixel mapping have to do with CRT? In any case I saw the e-mail you sent to [email protected] yesterday and would like to recommend specifying exactly what you're after beyond a simple "I would like to have LVSE". Actually it's not that unusual for someone to detail problems on AVS but hardly provide anything when contacting support and have expectation of an encyclopaedic response. I don't get it but that's another story. Anyway what you're after is the ability to load a resolution not supported by VXP so per Andrew's most recent response step 1 is for you to find out the timing info from your projector manufacturer and *then* step 2 is for me to look into a program that'll accommodate. There's no point in spinning tires before that and where I was going with this two months ago is looking into providing a program - depending on software resources - that will allow loading custom resolution (and gamma for that matter) since the rest of LVSE doesn't do much and isn't needed. There's a lot more to what you're after than entering "1600x900" and hitting Load. I also want to mention that we haven't had a request for loading a custom resolution since 2006 when there was more than one way of timing 768p, and that didn't happen either until the person requesting it provided the required timing info.

*Occasional random reboots:*

Now there's a good reason to temporarily bypass power conditioner and see whether there's an effect.


Please follow up with tech support, I don't lurk here that often. Not that I'm not interested but just can't.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Quote:

Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* 
I too do not like the handshake issues. Whay to long to lock, sound issues until it does lock and long silence inbetween. MY PJ locks onto signals very easily and extremely fast from the BD player... not so much from the AVM50v
If you pretend that the 50v is a BD player and set up a system with nothing in it besides 50v and PJ, it might lock about as fast.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Quote:

Originally Posted by *thestewman* 
Sorry for the negative aspect of this response but this has bothered me for sometime as a long time Anthem D2 and now a Sub 2 owner.


Does anyone else have problems having Anthem customer service respond to their questions or problems ?

I see a small select group of users appear to have a direct route to Anthem CS and get back here with answers within minutes and others wait and wait or get no response.


Am I wrong in this assessment ?
Quick to-the-point questions for which there is an immediate answer get answered the fastest not because of who's asking but because it's practical.


----------



## p.las

somtimes i missed the signal from my logitech squezzebox.......coax. then i have to turn my avm off and on, and then it is fixed. but sometimes the signal just dissapear.

sometimes the master volume is way too low. Off and on, and it is fixed.

auto function in video setup dont work proberly....reselution.it always output 1080/60. so i have too made 3 videosetups 1080/24 1080/50 1080/60. My old dvdo vp 50 have no problem with that


----------



## rovingtravler

Nick,


My system is only Oppo Digital BDP-93 feeding the Anthem AVM50v to a Runco Q-750i.


I do not keep anything else in the system as I am still testing all the functions. I have only had the AVM for a week.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19925014
> 
> 
> (01-31-11) No need to make things complicated. All you have to do is send an e-mail to tech support stating in simplest terms what you're trying to accomplish. LVSE development simply didn't keep up with adding two more video output configurations in menu, a much more popular request. This does not mean custom resolutions can no longer be uploaded, nor is LVSE the only means (it's just a GUI for serial commands). Regardless of how 1600x900 gets loaded, someone has to send us the projector's timing chart such that all the info that would be loaded in the custom resolution section of "normal" LVSE is known.



Sorry, Nick, I did not see this reply 2 months ago so I was not aware of this new strategy. I guess you are going to update the user manuals to scrub all references to LVSE? I hope you can see where I'm coming from, it's your own documentation. Like a responsible user I RTFM and tried to use the tools available to serve myself to try different timings. I wasn't expecting individualized service, just a working tool.


Anyway I will work with Tech Support to get one set of timings defined as you have kindly offered. However I don't want to bother you every time I want to change resolutions or tweak the timings. This is the nature of the CRT crowd.


----------



## Arcadeus

Hey all, going to pick up my d2v tonight and am looking forward to trolling around with you guys!


Mark


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Arcadeus* /forum/post/20236935
> 
> 
> Hey all, going to pick up my d2v tonight and am looking forward to trolling around with you guys!
> 
> 
> Mark



Congrats Arcadeus...I picked mine up almost 3 months ago and have been





















eversince!


----------



## jayray

Some new D2v and AVM 50v official firmware on the horizon.

John


----------



## Texas steve

I was going to update to 2.11, but if "offical" is comning Ill hold off. any timing mentioned?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20237200
> 
> 
> Some new D2v and AVM 50v official firmware on the horizon.
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was going to update to 2.11, but if "offical" is comning Ill hold off. any timing mentioned?



They will be the same









John


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20237395
> 
> 
> They will be the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Thanks, will update tonight.


Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's hard to prove a negative, but so far my results look good on "test" V2.11 in terms of eliminating the occasional loss of audio requiring a power cycle.


I haven't spotted any downsides. I've not yet had a chance to see if any of the other long-standing bugs have been fixed.

--Bob


----------



## p.las

i have found a dekoding problem. When the Anthem (avm 50v) dekode dts hd its turning the center speaker up + 4db. i have a test dick there went whit my Oppo bdp 83, where it is confirmed. when my Oppo dekodes the level its correct. its only dts hd. i discover it becurse if think that the dialog was wery loud, and when i changed the signal to pcm from my oppo the dialog become lower and the overall sound whas more ballanced. i will contack my dealer tomorow.


----------



## MACCA350





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20239799
> 
> 
> i have found a dekoding problem. When the Anthem (avm 50v) dekode dts hd its turning the center speaker up + 4db. i have a test dick there went whit my Oppo bdp 83, where it is confirmed. when my Oppo dekodes the level its correct. its only dts hd. i discover it becurse if think that the dialog was wery loud, and when i changed the signal to pcm from my oppo the dialog become lower and the overall sound whas more ballanced. i will contack my dealer tomorow.



Hmm, may be part of what I found here 


Have you confirmed whether it's just the centre? Those tests above were generally using dialog scenes so very center channel heavy.


Here's some info on other tests I performed in a similar vein:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19103000 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19108730 




Bob, have you had a chance to test the beta fw for the above issues and the CD audio muting issue?


Cheers


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20240792
> 
> 
> Hmm, may be part of what I found here
> 
> 
> Have you confirmed whether it's just the centre? Those tests above were generally using dialog scenes so very center channel heavy.
> 
> 
> Here's some info on other tests I performed in a similar vein:
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19103000
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19108730
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a second test, using aix studio test disc.
> 
> Pcm from Oppo DTS hd All five channels said 75db
> 
> 
> Bitstream DTS hd. Front and surround said 75db. Center 79db.
> 
> 
> I have tested it becurse i think that the dialog was very dominant. And no i have found the problem. If i turn the center down by 4db, its Sound right again
> 
> 
> All movies witt DTS hd is louder in the center Channel if i using bitstream. Second......i dont understand why DTS hd is so damn loud vs true hd?
> 
> 
> Bob, have you had a chance to test the beta fw for the above issues and the CD audio muting issue?
> 
> 
> Cheers




I have made a second test, using aix studio test disc.

Pcm from Oppo DTS hd All five channels said 75db


Bitstream DTS hd. Front and surround said 75db. Center 79db.


I have tested it becurse i think that the dialog was very dominant. And no i have found the problem. If i turn the center down by 4db, its Sound right again


All movies witt DTS hd is louder in the center Channel if i using bitstream. Second......i dont understand why DTS hd is so damn loud vs true hd?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a second test, using aix studio test disc.
> 
> Pcm from Oppo DTS hd All five channels said 75db
> 
> 
> Bitstream DTS hd. Front and surround said 75db. Center 79db.
> 
> 
> I have tested it becurse i think that the dialog was very dominant. And no i have found the problem. If i turn the center down by 4db, its Sound right again
> 
> 
> All movies witt DTS hd is louder in the center Channel if i using bitstream. Second......i dont understand why DTS hd is so damn loud vs true hd?



DTS does this because many people perceive louder as better so if they make it louder they're hoping we'll think it is better.

John


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20242180
> 
> 
> DTS does this because many people perceive louder as better so if they make it louder they're hoping we'll think it is better.
> 
> John



But why does the dekoder in the Anthem turn the centerchannel up by 4 dB, when it is DTS hd. The dekoder in the Oppo dosent do that.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> But why does the dekoder in the Anthem turn the centerchannel up by 4 dB, when it is DTS hd. The dekoder in the Oppo dosent do that.



That I don't know.

John


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20242295
> 
> 
> That I don't know.
> 
> John



Is there anybody that have the same problem A's i have? Hmm i have made contakt to Anthem....maby there have a solution.....but i Think it is a software issue


----------



## TJG55

Just loaded 2.11 into AVM-50, 3/30/11 and all worked well, solved some handshake and A/V droupouts glitches. Also Andrew provided desperately needed hex codes for Anthem LTX-500 to operate vertical stretch, (Panamorph lens for 2.35), using RTI remote. What a save! You guys who complain about CS at Anthem should try to deal with other manufacturers! You get better service from Anthem as a consumer than I do from ]any other manufacturer as a dealer! Been doing this for over 38 years with many, many brands and Anthem is hands down the best!

TJG


----------



## spiderv6

When playing a DTS-HD movie my d2v display says DTS-MA on the top line and on the bottom line it flashes DTS HD Master Audio before changing to 5.1+Neo:6


Is that correct?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When playing a DTS-HD movie my d2v display says DTS-MA on the top line and on the bottom line it flashes DTS HD Master Audio before changing to 5.1+Neo:6
> 
> 
> Is that correct?



Mine does that sometimes but it so far, it has affected nothing. Do you have a 7.1 or 6.1 system?

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20237200
> 
> 
> Some new D2v and AVM 50v official firmware on the horizon.
> 
> John



What about the D2 ??


Tom


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20243504
> 
> 
> mine does that sometimes but it so far, it has affected nothing. Do you have a 7.1 or 6.1 system?
> 
> John



5.1


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 5.1



Why are you using NEO 6 ?

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> What about the D2 ??
> 
> 
> Tom



Sorry I don't know about that.

John


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20243715
> 
> 
> Why are you using NEO 6 ?
> 
> John



I don't know. I just came back from 2 weeks away and the gremlims (ahem, children) have been pressing too many buttons.


What *should* it be reading?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know. I just came back from 2 weeks away and the gremlims (ahem, children) have been pressing too many buttons.
> 
> 
> What should it be reading?



For 5.1 set presets to None in the setup menu for you BD player. Neo6 is for 6.1 systems and Dolby PLIIx is for 7.1

John


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20243804
> 
> 
> For 5.1 set presets to None in the setup menu for you BD player. Neo6 is for 6.1 systems and Dolby PLIIx is for 7.1
> 
> John



Thanks John.


Who knows how they managed to change that setting!!!!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks John.
> 
> 
> Who knows how they managed to change that setting!!!!



Kids always find a way









John


----------



## rovingtravler

Any ideas on when 2.11 will be available for pucblic download?


Anyone willing to share the link and pass for the beta...


I would just like to solve or at least reduce the HDMI handshake issues.


Thanks


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> For 5.1 set presets to None in the setup menu for you BD player. Neo6 is for 6.1 systems and Dolby PLIIx is for 7.1



I'm currently running 5.1 and have Dolby PL11x enabled for all surround formats. I know it's for 7.1 but is it preferred not to have it set if one isn't running a dedicated 7.1 system? I find the sound stage to be more open when I watch a movie in either True HD or DTS MA. Under the menu should I have the surround options set to None then?


So in other words setting the surround option to Dolby PL11x (to True HD /DTS MA) does that effect the way the main surrounds are used in a 5.1 setup? Are they still getting the appropriate information?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently running 5.1 and have Dolby PL11x enabled for all surround formats. I know it's for 7.1 but is it preferred not to have it set if one isn't running a dedicated 7.1 system? I find the sound stage to be more open when I watch a movie in either True HD or DTS MA. Under the menu should I have the surround options set to None then?
> 
> 
> So in other words setting the surround option to Dolby PL11x (to True HD /DTS MA) does that effect the way the main surrounds are used in a 5.1 setup? Are they still getting the appropriate information?



The Presets menu will let you make entries that can't actually be applied due to your speaker setup. The Anthem will revert to the correct setting when you actually play content. So 5.1 content played into 5.1 speakers will yield NONE despite your Presets setting.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/20243442
> 
> 
> When playing a DTS-HD movie my d2v display says DTS-MA on the top line and on the bottom line it flashes DTS HD Master Audio before changing to 5.1+Neo:6
> 
> 
> Is that correct?



Yes, and I think all the DTS modes default to Neo:6 in the factory setup. I have a 7.1 system so I changed them to use PLIIx except for DTS-ES 5.1 Matrix which the Anthem normally uses Neo:6 to decode (confused me at first but it's in the owners manual).


So either your modes are all defaulting to Neo:6 or you are playing a DTS-ES 5.1 Matrix soundtrack and the Anthem is detecting that.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20244482
> 
> 
> I'm currently running 5.1 and have Dolby PL11x enabled for all surround formats. I know it's for 7.1 but is it preferred not to have it set if one isn't running a dedicated 7.1 system? I find the sound stage to be more open when I watch a movie in either True HD or DTS MA. Under the menu should I have the surround options set to None then?
> 
> 
> So in other words setting the surround option to Dolby PL11x (to True HD /DTS MA) does that effect the way the main surrounds are used in a 5.1 setup? Are they still getting the appropriate information?



I've noticed that PLIIx even affects the FRONT soundstage, making it wider. I never tried it on a 5.1 setup though (as Bob says this may not even be possible). The best way to experiment is with a music soundtrack (doesn't have to be HD) and turn off the TV.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20244341
> 
> 
> Any ideas on when 2.11 will be available for pucblic download?
> 
> 
> Anyone willing to share the link and pass for the beta...
> 
> 
> I would just like to solve or at least reduce the HDMI handshake issues.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Could be today or Monday. It is very close to release and if experience with the Beta is any indication, it looks good.

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20242043
> 
> 
> I have made a second test, using aix studio test disc.
> 
> Pcm from Oppo DTS hd All five channels said 75db
> 
> 
> Bitstream DTS hd. Front and surround said 75db. Center 79db.
> 
> 
> I have tested it becurse i think that the dialog was very dominant. And no i have found the problem. If i turn the center down by 4db, its Sound right again
> 
> 
> All movies witt DTS hd is louder in the center Channel if i using bitstream. Second......i dont understand why DTS hd is so damn loud vs true hd?



I only have DVE test disc so I can only confirm the problem isn't there with Dolby or PCM.


So you pressed the Centre button WHILE sending DTS and display said 0 dB (now at -4 dB)?


----------



## p.las

Quote:

Originally Posted by *AVfile* 
I only have DVE test disc so I can only confirm the problem isn't there with Dolby or PCM.


So you pressed the Centre button WHILE sending DTS and display said 0 dB (now at -4 dB)?
Turning down -4 dB ,and the radioshack reads 75db from the center.....A's it shout be

Yes. It is only DTS hd. Dve All reads the same (DTS Dolby).

But i Can also hear it when i Watch a movie. Dialog is very loud. But i Can see that its allready reportet once
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19103000


----------



## AVfile

Quote:

Originally Posted by *p.las* 
Dialog is very loud. But i Can see that its allready reportet once
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19103000
Interesting... I just read the reports from back in August.







I hope they fixed it in the upcoming 2.11 firmware.


I agree with you that the centre channel seems loud, subjectively. Also ARC made it even worse in my system, so I had to set levels manually.


I found a way to do an objective test, using the Toy Story 3 Blu-ray "setup" menu. There is a DTS HR 7.1 speaker level test. Results:


L/R: -2 dB

C: 0 dB

LS/RS: 0 dB

LB/RB: +2 dB


There is also a DD 5.1 EX speaker level test. Results are similar but without the L/R drop. I think the best workaround for now is to raise the L/R channels by 2 dB (or whatever you need) when playing DTS HD. I can live with the surround back channels being a little louder (that could be my room EQ) but you can lower those too by pressing the SUR-REAR button twice, if you want.


Note: to raise only the L/R channels in the Anthem you have to increase the FRONT trim and then decrease the CENTRE trim by the same amount.


Fortunately these trims are only stored for the current format so it won't screw up PCM, Dolby or regular DTS modes. You should only have to do this once.


----------



## rovingtravler

Having issues again with updating firmware.


I have the baud rate at 19200, 8, none, 2 bits par. I am still getting fail to update messages.


Is the sequence supposed to be

searching

found AVM50v

AVM50v code needs update

installing/verifying etc

?


I have windows firewall off

AVG anti-virus off

added anthem update to my programs allowed through the firewall



If the update fails should the AVM be able to turn on? Mine does nothing... no lights, nothing.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20248118
> 
> 
> Having issues again with updating firmware.
> 
> 
> I have the baud rate at 19200, 8, none, 2 bits par. I am still getting fail to update messages.
> 
> 
> Is the sequence supposed to be
> 
> searching
> 
> found AVM50v
> 
> AVM50v code needs update
> 
> installing/verifying etc
> 
> ?
> 
> 
> I have windows firewall off
> 
> AVG anti-virus off
> 
> added anthem update to my programs allowed through the firewall
> 
> 
> 
> If the update fails should the AVM be able to turn on? Mine does nothing... no lights, nothing.



The firewall should have no effect as the update should aleady be on your laptop harddrive.

Are you using a Keyspan USA-19HS USB to RS232 adapter ?

Have saved your User and Installer settings and then loaded the default settings ?

Have you disconnected all HDMi connections from the AVM50v ?


----------



## rovingtravler

Thestewman,


Yes I have saved my settings, then loaded defaults. I have disconnected every cable, including HDMI, to and from the unit except the power cord


I am using a Radio shack gigaware USB to serial, but it worked last week to update from 2.08 to 2.10 after the firewall was disabled.


I am wondering if there is a baud rate miscompare that could be causing the issue.


If firmware failed should the unit turn on?


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20243557
> 
> 
> What about the D2 ??
> 
> 
> Tom



I'm right there with you, Tom.

At this point in time I think it's safe to say that Anthem doesn't give a sh!t about us.


----------



## rovingtravler

I do understand how they cannot use USB in todays day and age. my B&K was a snap to upgrade 12 years ago with rs232


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I do understand how they cannot use USB in todays day and age. my B&K was a snap to upgrade 12 years ago with rs232



They're not idiots, so you've got to figure there is a good reason. My new plasma does it with an SDHC card while it is also equipped with a USB port. Go figure.

John


----------



## rovingtravler

And yes I understand they need RS232 for backwards compatibility and intergration for older systems, but why not have both?


Brought the unit upstairs into the living room and suddenly it is updating. I am 19 minutes in... lets hope


----------



## rovingtravler

John,


It is just too bad there cannot be a modern standard similar to well APIs for computers, UPNP servers, Blu ray, DVD etc. so things should work better and more easily together.


I am by no means saying they do not know what they are doing, but 232 is so slow with usb the update could/would be much faster and should have less fails.


ALL updated to 2.11

Now to reconnect everything. good times


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/20248365
> 
> 
> I'm right there with you, Tom.
> 
> At this point in time I think it's safe to say that Anthem doesn't give a sh!t about us.



Anthem does care, the last beta upgrade was 7-28-09 to 1.47f which still isn't stable. They have come out with 3 new receivers and a D2v, They care. Nick him self last year said that their was another firmware coming soon, and that was ONLY last year. They care. They maybe working on a D3, They care. They foregot that the D2 is what put them out there. Us original buyers of the D2. Maybe You are correct, THEY DON'T CARE.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/20249219
> 
> 
> Anthem does care, the last beta upgrade was 7-28-09 to 1.47f which still isn't stable. They have come out with 3 new receivers and a D2v, They care. Nick him self last year said that their was another firmware coming soon, and that was ONLY last year. They care. They maybe working on a D3, They care. They foregot that the D2 is what put them out there. Us original buyers of the D2. Maybe You are correct, THEY DON'T CARE.



I just hope that the next firmware Will fix the DTS hd issue. Its quite a old issue.......and in my book a importen one to fix. But i have to say that its Sound fantastic. More Open than my old Lexicon, and more confirguration


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/20249219
> 
> 
> Anthem does care, the last beta upgrade was 7-28-09 to 1.47f which still isn't stable. They have come out with 3 new receivers and a D2v, They care. Nick him self last year said that their was another firmware coming soon, and that was ONLY last year. They care. They maybe working on a D3, They care. They foregot that the D2 is what put them out there. Us original buyers of the D2. Maybe You are correct, THEY DON'T CARE.



I've said these things again and again in private messages, reiterated here strictly for anyone who has an issue with Anthem's policies:


HDMI problems that existed with sources a couple of years ago are mostly sorted out in the sources so they're non-issues now. I've taken a look at D2 software inquiries over the past several months and don't see more than one request, more like a shame-into-guilt attempt which hasn't flown with me since I was about seven, for a D2 update that would address an HDMI handshake problem. It was for an aging satellite receiver and my response was the same as in 2006 - use component. We can't support other companies' ancient problems especially when those companies never did. As readers here know our plan was to port applicable D2v HDMI code to D2 but things are so stable now why rock the boat? If you have a real D2 issue that justifies a fix through D2 software then send your request to [email protected] but be warned that if it's in regard to an old source with a history of HDMI instability then there won't be a fix.


Hardware upgrades - timing is everything. If you had a D1 in the D2 days, a $2K upgrade was available to add HDMI and video processing. In my opinion the only upgrade in the history of home theater that was any more of a steal compared to this is anything that was applicable to the AVM 20, a model that appeared in 2001 and was upgradeable seven years later. (People bought the AVM 20 v1 after hearing about the AVM 2 which got us there eleven years ago, and some AVM 2 owners cried foul even though no one ever said it was hardware-upgradeable.) If you had a D1 and went for the D2v trade-in up to around a year ago, we were effectively buying back your D1, then a six year old model, for more than half of its list price. In my opinion this was also very generous and then unmatched by selling privately, by wide margin. Some have stated that there's no way they'd pay more than $2k for this trade-in but the list price difference between D1 and D2v is $3500 therefore trading in for less than that (or even the same amount) is impossible. Upgrade prices have changed in the last year and at this time you'd be better off selling old equipment privately.


That's only part of Anthem's upgrade history and regard for existing customers.


As for the controversial D2 to D2v trade-in, I always said there's nothing wrong with source decoding and always recommended against a D2 being traded in for D2v due to low value in doing so, but the numbers speak for themselves - many people have traded in. The only reason that D2v exists is not because HDMI introduced HDMI v1.3 but because of the overwhelming number of people that were willing to pay for it. Consumers as a group often forget how often they're accomplices. This entire AV processor platform would have been killed in favour of a new one (my wish, also ending hardware upgrades altogether in a fast-changing HDMI world) and yet it's still not happening - 3D hardware which we're working on for the D2v and AVM 50v adds another chapter.


You see, we are giving people what they want. The de facto boss is none other than the end user, and majority rules.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20249396
> 
> 
> I've said these things again and again in private messages, reiterated here strictly for anyone who has an issue with Anthem's policies:
> 
> 
> HDMI problems that existed with sources a couple of years ago are mostly sorted out in the sources so they're non-issues now. I've taken a look at D2 software inquiries over the past several months and don't see more than one request, more like a shame-into-guilt attempt which hasn't flown with me since I was about seven, for a D2 update that would address an HDMI handshake problem. It was for an aging satellite receiver and my response was the same as in 2006 - use component. We can't support other companies' ancient problems especially when those companies never did. As readers here know our plan was to port applicable D2v HDMI code to D2 but things are so stable now why rock the boat? If you have a real D2 issue that justifies a fix through D2 software then send your request to [email protected] but be warned that if it's in regard to an old source with a history of HDMI instability then there won't be a fix.
> 
> 
> Hardware upgrades - timing is everything. If you had a D1 in the D2 days, a $2K upgrade was available to add HDMI and video processing. In my opinion the only upgrade in the history of home theater that was any more of a steal compared to this is anything that was applicable to the AVM 20, a model that appeared in 2001 and was upgradeable seven years later. (People bought the AVM 20 v1 after hearing about the AVM 2 which got us there eleven years ago, and some AVM 2 owners cried foul even though no one ever said it was hardware-upgradeable.) If you had a D1 and went for the D2v trade-in up to around a year ago, we were effectively buying back your D1, then a six year old model, for more than half of its list price. In my opinion this was also very generous and then unmatched by selling privately, by wide margin. Some have stated that there's no way they'd pay more than $2k for this trade-in but the list price difference between D1 and D2v is $3500 therefore trading in for less than that (or even the same amount) is impossible. Upgrade prices have changed in the last year and at this time you'd be better off selling old equipment privately.
> 
> 
> That's only part of Anthem's upgrade history and regard for existing customers.
> 
> 
> As for the controversial D2 to D2v trade-in, I always said there's nothing wrong with source decoding and always recommended against a D2 being traded in for D2v due to low value in doing so, but the numbers speak for themselves - many people have traded in. The only reason that D2v exists is not because HDMI introduced HDMI v1.3 but because of the overwhelming number of people that were willing to pay for it. Consumers as a group often forget how often they're accomplices. This entire AV processor platform would have been killed in favour of a new one (my wish, also ending hardware upgrades altogether in a fast-changing HDMI world) and yet it's still not happening - 3D hardware which we're working on for the D2v and AVM 50v adds another chapter.
> 
> 
> You see, we are giving people what they want. The de facto boss is none other than the end user, and majority rules.



Are you familier witt the DTS hd issue?

I Think you made great products, witt a good historie off soft and hardware opgrade. Maby thats is the reason why people want things to happens faster and faster......if you no what i mean


----------



## mlbrand

Nick,


I have to agree with you. My D2 has been very stable running v. 1.33. I'm using a PS3, Oppo 980, the latest DirecTV sat. DVR's, Squeezebox, Toshiba HD-DVD player (rarely







), and ALL through HDMI with no issues. Of course I am decoding all hi-rez Blu-Ray audio through the PS3, which works great. My D2 is very solid, and even though the HDMI switching can at times be a little slow, it has always worked.


Now, let me add that I'm still upset by the large upgrade price increase for the D2v upgrade. Even you said it was of relatively low value. This of course could be interpreted to mean that Anthem charged too much for the D2v upgrade, which IMHO they did. Now if Anthem adds 3D capabilities to the D2v, then the higher upgrade cost would probably be justified for me. Please pass this on.


Best regards,


Mike B.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20249481
> 
> 
> Are you familier witt the DTS hd issue?
> 
> I Think you made great products, witt a good historie off soft and hardware opgrade. Maby thats is the reason why people want things to happens faster and faster......if you no what i mean



I see that you've been sending details to Andrew - this is the right thing to do.


And I do realize that our customers are more demanding than the average - hi-end would not exist othwerwise!


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/20249720
> 
> 
> Nick,
> 
> 
> I have to agree with you. My D2 has been very stable running v. 1.33. I'm using a PS3, Oppo 980, the latest DirecTV sat. DVR's, Squeezebox, Toshiba HD-DVD player (rarely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), and ALL through HDMI with no issues. Of course I am decoding all hi-rez Blu-Ray audio through the PS3, which works great. My D2 is very solid, and even though the HDMI switching can at times be a little slow, it has always worked.
> 
> 
> Now, let me add that I'm still upset by the large upgrade price increase for the D2v upgrade. Even you said it was of relatively low value. This of course could be interpreted to mean that Anthem charged too much for the D2v upgrade, which IMHO they did. Now if Anthem adds 3D capabilities to the D2v, then the higher upgrade cost would probably be justified for me. Please pass this on.
> 
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> 
> Mike B.



I understand, and we try to keep prices as low as possible, always have been. At our volumes it is not possible to make them any lower - just compare our competition's offerings.


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20249396
> 
> 
> I've said these things again and again in private messages, reiterated here strictly for anyone who has an issue with Anthem's policies:
> 
> 
> HDMI problems that existed with sources a couple of years ago are mostly sorted out in the sources so they're non-issues now. I've taken a look at D2 software inquiries over the past several months and don't see more than one request, more like a shame-into-guilt attempt which hasn't flown with me since I was about seven, for a D2 update that would address an HDMI handshake problem. It was for an aging satellite receiver and my response was the same as in 2006 - use component. We can't support other companies' ancient problems especially when those companies never did. As readers here know our plan was to port applicable D2v HDMI code to D2 but things are so stable now why rock the boat? If you have a real D2 issue that justifies a fix through D2 software then send your request to [email protected] but be warned that if it's in regard to an old source with a history of HDMI instability then there won't be a fix.
> 
> 
> Hardware upgrades - timing is everything. If you had a D1 in the D2 days, a $2K upgrade was available to add HDMI and video processing. In my opinion the only upgrade in the history of home theater that was any more of a steal compared to this is anything that was applicable to the AVM 20, a model that appeared in 2001 and was upgradeable seven years later. (People bought the AVM 20 v1 after hearing about the AVM 2 which got us there eleven years ago, and some AVM 2 owners cried foul even though no one ever said it was hardware-upgradeable.) If you had a D1 and went for the D2v trade-in up to around a year ago, we were effectively buying back your D1, then a six year old model, for more than half of its list price. In my opinion this was also very generous and then unmatched by selling privately, by wide margin. Some have stated that there's no way they'd pay more than $2k for this trade-in but the list price difference between D1 and D2v is $3500 therefore trading in for less than that (or even the same amount) is impossible. Upgrade prices have changed in the last year and at this time you'd be better off selling old equipment privately.
> 
> 
> That's only part of Anthem's upgrade history and regard for existing customers.
> 
> 
> As for the controversial D2 to D2v trade-in, I always said there's nothing wrong with source decoding and always recommended against a D2 being traded in for D2v due to low value in doing so, but the numbers speak for themselves - many people have traded in. The only reason that D2v exists is not because HDMI introduced HDMI v1.3 but because of the overwhelming number of people that were willing to pay for it. Consumers as a group often forget how often they're accomplices. This entire AV processor platform would have been killed in favour of a new one (my wish, also ending hardware upgrades altogether in a fast-changing HDMI world) and yet it's still not happening - 3D hardware which we're working on for the D2v and AVM 50v adds another chapter.
> 
> 
> You see, we are giving people what they want. The de facto boss is none other than the end user, and majority rules.



Hi Nick.

I should have tempered my comment but as you said and I agree, Anthem customers _are_ more demanding and it is Anthem's fault










I guess my response would be, why is 1.47f still beta?


----------



## mlbrand

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* 
I understand, and we try to keep prices as low as possible, always have been. At our volumes it is not possible to make them any lower - just compare our competition's offerings.
Fair enough. I just hope that Anthem will offer a reasonable upgrade price for D2 owners once the 3D hardware is added. THAT would offer significant upgrade value, depending of course on pricing.


----------



## drhankz

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mlbrand* 
Fair enough. I just hope that Anthem will offer a reasonable upgrade price for D2 owners once the 3D hardware is added. THAT would offer significant upgrade value, depending of course on pricing.
My D2 Upgrade for 3D did not COST a PENNY

Buy a Panasonic DMP-BDT350 an everything works today - NO UPGRADE needed.


----------



## Milt99

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mlbrand* 
Fair enough. I just hope that Anthem will offer a reasonable upgrade price for D2 owners once the 3D hardware is added. THAT would offer significant upgrade value, depending of course on pricing.
I would think a D2->D3 upgrade offer highly unlikely and if there is one, the cost would be much higher than the D2->D2v.


What would Anthem do with all of the D2 carcasses other than incur recycling fees?


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Milt99* 
I would think a D2->D3 upgrade offer highly unlikely and if there is one, the cost would be much higher than the D2->D2v.


What would Anthem do with all of the D2 carcasses other than incur recycling fees?
They'd just be upgrading your 4-port HDMI board on the D2/AVM50/D2v/AVM50v to a 3D HDMI v1.4a compatible board. No need to toss the rest of the guts. This upgrade should be feasible. This would solve any problems you had with the v1.33 or v1.47f firmware you had with the D2 and introduce you to new problems with the new 3D based firmware







.


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *drhankz*
My D2 Upgrade for 3D did not COST a PENNY

Buy a Panasonic DMP-BDT350 an everything works today - NO UPGRADE needed.
Hank,

Are you suggesting 1.4a is not needed







Some Manufacturers are going to be angry with you









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20251072
> 
> 
> Hank,
> 
> Are you suggesting 1.4a is not needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some Manufacturers are going to be angry with you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



That is *CORRECT* if you BUY the *RIGHT* Player


Did you look at the diagram? It is from the Panasonic Manual


HDMI 1.4a is required if you want a SINGLE HDMI 3D Player


Blame Panasonic not me


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20250908
> 
> 
> My D2 Upgrade for 3D did not COST a PENNY
> 
> Buy a Panasonic DMP-BDT350 an everything works today - NO UPGRADE needed.



That's great to know Hank! I should have figured you would know a way around this.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20251193
> 
> 
> That is *CORRECT* if you BUY the *RIGHT* Player
> 
> 
> Did you look at the diagram? It is from the Panasonic Manual
> 
> 
> HDMI 1.4a is required if you want a SINGLE HDMI 3D Player
> 
> 
> Blame Panasonic not me



I love this, beating them at their own game










John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20251193
> 
> 
> That is *CORRECT* if you BUY the *RIGHT* Player
> 
> 
> Did you look at the diagram? It is from the Panasonic Manual
> 
> 
> HDMI 1.4a is required if you want a SINGLE HDMI 3D Player
> 
> 
> Blame Panasonic not me



Am I understanging the diagram. Does it suggest two hdmi cables, one for video direct to the display and one out to the receiver for sound?

John


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20251024
> 
> 
> They'd just be upgrading your 4-port HDMI board on the D2/AVM50/D2v/AVM50v to a 3D HDMI v1.4a compatible board. No need to toss the rest of the guts. This upgrade should be feasible. This would solve any problems you had with the v1.33 or v1.47f firmware you had with the D2 and introduce you to new problems with the new 3D based firmware
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



I haven't had any real problems with 1.33 but there must be a reason for 1.47f, right?

re: D2->D3 upgrade.

I have to believe that the mythical D3 would be an entirely new platform\\form factor and as such a board swap wouldn't do it.

Pure speculation on my part.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99* /forum/post/20252149
> 
> 
> I haven't had any real problems with 1.33 but there must be a reason for 1.47f, right?
> 
> re: D2->D3 upgrade.
> 
> I have to believe that the mythical D3 would be an entirely new platform\\form factor and as such a board swap wouldn't do it.
> 
> Pure speculation on my part.



v1.47f addresses video cards that expect to see a captive video monitor. We provided a fix for this because video cards that did not support hot-plugging and switching (contrary to HDMI spec) were widely used in hi-end servers. It's not an issue with most newer video cards.


Other than the 3D upgrade I don't expect to see a successor to the D2v and AVM 50v for a long time. There's ARC, support for HD audio bitstreams, support for 1080p "full HD" and soon 3D. Where do you go from there (besides expanding via MRX receivers)?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20251024
> 
> 
> This would solve any problems you had with the v1.33 or v1.47f firmware you had with the D2.



That's the part I don't understand any more - what problems besides those with ancient HDMI sources? (let [email protected] know... Monday is just around the corner)


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/20250811
> 
> 
> Fair enough. I just hope that Anthem will offer a reasonable upgrade price for D2 owners once the 3D hardware is added. THAT would offer significant upgrade value, depending of course on pricing.



It would be at as much as the current price of D2 to D2v trade-in, maybe more. What defines the subjective term "reasonable"? The prices we charge are determined by the design and manufacture. Like I mentioned earlier you can compare performance against any other product. If its price is more reasonable, buy it.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> The Presets menu will let you make entries that can't actually be applied due to your speaker setup. The Anthem will revert to the correct setting when you actually play content. So 5.1 content played into 5.1 speakers will yield NONE despite your Presets setting.



Thanks for that. Another question for anyone that knows. If I'm running an Epson TW-3200 1080p projector with an Oppo BD-83 player what are the best settings on the D2v under the secondary option screen (hold 7 on remote)? I saw the setting for Anamaphoric stretch and it was enabled, is that normal? Turning it off reduces the picture to a small box on the 100" 16:9 screen.


The reason for my questions is I have to enable Overscan and set it to 4% on the projector to get a 1:85 image to completely fit on the screen. Is this the best way to do this or am I missing something in the settings on either the projector or the Anthem. Does using Overscan affect the overall picture quality?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20252278
> 
> 
> That's the part I don't understand any more - what problems besides those with ancient HDMI sources? (let [email protected] know... Monday is just around the corner)



Nick, i honestly do not know since i come from the 50v and now the D2v world. Its just that some have been very vocal here about the lack of FW upgrades to the D2. I assumed the v1.33 was buggy or lacked features and the test version v1.47f was worse. Then talk aboutupgradavility dependent on red colored pc boards and transformers of different colors (or sizes ?) and got the impression the D2 was some complicated beast to upgrade.


I guess the D2 owners would like to know once and for all, if a FW upgrade is on the menu and hopefully would dial down the chatter on this topic here once and for all







.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20252266
> 
> 
> v1.47f addresses video cards that expect to see a captive video monitor. We provided a fix for this because video cards that did not support hot-plugging and switching (contrary to HDMI spec) were widely used in hi-end servers. It's not an issue with most newer video cards.
> 
> 
> Other than the 3D upgrade I don't expect to see a successor to the D2v and AVM 50v for a long time. There's ARC, support for HD audio bitstreams, support for 1080p "full HD" and soon 3D. Where do you go from there (besides expanding via MRX receivers)?



Oh I can think of quite a few places to go.










First I would add some of the features that the flagship D2v lacks that the MRX receivers have such as USB/Ethernet/HD Radio/Internet Radio. I find it strange the the receivers have this and apparently these features are no where in site for the Pre/Pros. Ethernet firmware updates alone would probably kill half the traffic in this thread.










And of course my number one feature request more LFE channels not just more LFE jacks. There are a lot of us running multiple subwoofers and seat transducers.


Still running my D2 on 1.33 although I still have the occasion quirk and wouldn't mind seeing an update.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20252415
> 
> 
> Nick, i honestly do not know since i come from the 50v and now the D2v world. Its just that some have been very vocal here about the lack of FW upgrades to the D2. I assumed the v1.33 was buggy or lacked features and the test version v1.47f was worse. Then talk aboutupgradavility dependent on red colored pc boards and transformers of different colors (or sizes ?) and got the impression the D2 was some complicated beast to upgrade.



Board colour makes no difference. When v1.47f was fresh we were cautious about who we recommended it to because we had only tested it extensively on newer (red) hardware. We later tested it on all versions. The only reason to use it is if an older video card needs support. None other.


Regardless no one should be using beta software without our recommendation, and it starts with contacting [email protected] .


And yes I do feel that all this is blown way out of proportion.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20252542
> 
> 
> Oh I can think of quite a few places to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I would add some of the features that the flagship D2v lacks that the MRX receivers have such as USB/Ethernet/HD Radio/Internet Radio. I find it strange the the receivers have this and apparently these features are no where in site for the Pre/Pros. Ethernet firmware updates alone would probably kill half the traffic in this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And of course my number one feature request more LFE channels not just more LFE jacks. There are a lot of us running multiple subwoofers and seat transducers.
> 
> 
> Still running my D2 on 1.33 although I still have the occasion quirk and wouldn't mind seeing an update.



If you haven't done so send a detailed description of the quirk to tech support but be warned that for a problem to be fixable it has to be reproducible i.e. the software engineers need the exact steps to make it happen often enough to catch.


Suggestions are always appreciated and valued.


re newfangled features I agree on the programming connection type and explained why things remain as they are earlier today. I disagree on anything to do with networked media - just connect a AppleTV, Boxee, Logitech Revue, PS3 - the list goes on. Specialized devices like these have richer features than anyone's built-in interface and have a better chance of staying up to date. And they're cheap. With 8 HDMI inputs on a D2 or D2v, i.e. likely at least one to spare, this would be my choice.


re multiple sub channels there's no technical merit (see http://www.anthemav.com/index.php?vi...n=com_quickfaq and go to first question on page 3) except EQing each sub before EQing the combination. Now for a shameless plug for current Paradigm subs, all of which can be EQd via a $99 PBK kit, except the three cheapest models. PBK is the sub-only ARC counterpart.


re multiple subs/transducers just run a splitter (there's no loss, this isn't impedance-matched coax video nor parallel speakers - also explained in the FAQ) and if your transducers don't have level control set D2 sub level according to desired transducer level then make final adjustment using sub's own level dials.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20252761
> 
> 
> If you haven't done so send a detailed description of the quirk to tech support but be warned that for a problem to be fixable it has to be reproducible i.e. the software engineers need the exact steps to make it happen often enough to catch.
> 
> 
> Suggestions are always appreciated and valued.
> 
> 
> re newfangled features I agree on the programming connection type and explained why things remain as they are earlier today. I disagree on anything to do with networked media - just connect a AppleTV, Boxee, Logitech Revue, PS3 - the list goes on. Specialized devices like these have richer features than anyone's built-in interface and have a better chance of staying up to date. And they're cheap. With 8 HDMI inputs on a D2 or D2v, i.e. likely at least one to spare, this would be my choice.
> 
> 
> re multiple sub channels there's no technical merit (see http://www.anthemav.com/index.php?vi...n=com_quickfaq and go to first question on page 3) except EQing each sub before EQing the combination. Now for a shameless plug for current Paradigm subs, all of which can be EQd via a $99 PBK kit, except the three cheapest models. PBK is the sub-only ARC counterpart.
> 
> 
> re multiple subs/transducers just run a splitter (there's no loss, this isn't impedance-matched coax video nor parallel speakers - also explained in the FAQ) and if your transducers don't have level control set D2 sub level according to desired transducer level then make final adjustment using sub's own level dials.



Nick:


- On the subwoofer issue, it'd be great if ARC managed to phase align the subs to each other and in combination to the rest of the mains. Right now, it's a very cumbersome process*see my sig below) relying on setting knobs in the backs of the subwoofers and hoping they remain intact when you accidentally move the sub. Maybe that's what the previous poster meant to say, but i'm just guessing here...


- How about an upgraded, modern and easier to manouever setup menu? Right now, you have the same one you had since the days of the AVM20 and its format has really never changed







. Now that ARC is part of your pre-pros, why not eliminate the manual EQ clutter from yesteryear that are no longer needed(Center EQ, Room resonance filter, TV size to name a few)?


- I am a fan of "FrameLock" but it takes forever to lock onto a frame rate as i use the same channel for bluray 30Hz(BD concerts) and 24Hz BD movies. Can it be made faster? How about a way implementing the HDMI repeater function?


- In an earlier post, i believe you said that we send you the timings of any custom video resolution? My Dell laptop is 1440 x [email protected] 60hz in 32-bit color. I have to settle for 1280 x 720p in the Anthem to display something decent from my laptops HDMI port but its never optimal at all.


You already covered the ethernet upgradability issue which as the poster jokingly said would kill AVS traffic in one-half, maybe even reduing tech-support call volumes.


Thanks,

David


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20252294
> 
> 
> It would be at as much as the current price of D2 to D2v trade-in, maybe more. What defines the subjective term "reasonable"? The prices we charge are determined by the design and manufacture. Like I mentioned earlier you can compare performance against any other product. If its price is more reasonable, buy it.



I stretched my budget back when I bought my D2, but I could justify it when upgrades at that time cost around $1500 to $2000. THAT's what I considered reasonable. Then Anthem charges $3,500 for the next admitted "low value" upgrade. That was too much for me. Especially when I now have 2 kids in college, in a tough economy. That said, if the 3D hardware, etc. is added and the upgrade price stays the same, I might go for that. Just tell the bean counters to not forget us little guys.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20251636
> 
> 
> Am I understanging the diagram. Does it suggest two hdmi cables, one for video direct to the display and one out to the receiver for sound?
> 
> John



Yes John - that is Correct - a HDMI Cable to 3D Display or Projector.

The 2nd HDMI Cable goes to any brand AVR.


That is the uniqueness of the Panasonic 3D Player. It solves the

problem for any BRAND AVR that does not have HDMI 1.4a or 3D Support.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20253404
> 
> 
> Yes John - that is Correct - a HDMI Cable to 3D Display or Projector.
> 
> The 2nd HDMI Cable goes to any brand AVR.
> 
> 
> That is the uniqueness of the Panasonic 3D Player. It solves the
> 
> problem for any BRAND AVR that does not have HDMI 1.4a or 3D Support.



Oppo 9x series of dvd players also provides two HDMI outs that will do exactly this also.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/20253417
> 
> 
> Oppo 9x series of dvd players also provides two HDMI outs that will do exactly this also.



Cool - Panasonic was the only one I knew about.


Does it SUPPORT *3D*


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20252414
> 
> 
> Thanks for that. Another question for anyone that knows. If I'm running an Epson TW-3200 1080p projector with an Oppo BD-83 player what are the best settings on the D2v under the secondary option screen (hold 7 on remote)? I saw the setting for Anamaphoric stretch and it was enabled, is that normal? Turning it off reduces the picture to a small box on the 100" 16:9 screen.
> 
> 
> The reason for my questions is I have to enable Overscan and set it to 4% on the projector to get a 1:85 image to completely fit on the screen. Is this the best way to do this or am I missing something in the settings on either the projector or the Anthem. Does using Overscan affect the overall picture quality?



i am a calibrator & turning on any sort of processing in the PJ will degrade the picture because it has to scale the original i.e. Overscan, keystone

you want dot-to-dot mapping of the original signal to the digital panel to keep the best picture

as soon as it scales, you lose 1/2 of the resolution


mark


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20253421
> 
> 
> Cool - Panasonic was the only one I knew about.
> 
> 
> Does it SUPPORT *3D*



Yes they do support 3D.


----------



## rovingtravler

I have to agree with Dmusoke. Older pre/pros at lower levels have better set up menus. B&K, Sony, etc. More color choices, more user friendly etc. On the Anthem the video pro. settings are entered in yet a different menu structure. Selecting what type of audio decoding is a little confusing. Under set up for DTS you have the option of picking Dolby digital... really? I hope the pre/pro figure out that DTS is not DD, but I have not tried this.


Also the remote is not exactly modern for today’s use and level of the unit. It is a hard button remote, yet there are not dedicated buttons for items that should have dedicated buttons. Some pre/pros at this level ship with two remotes one hard button and one with a touch screen for those that want to use it. Yes it cost money, and I understand the legacy support for the older 50 and d2, but that can only be used as a reason for so long before it becomes an excuse.


There are many great things about Anthem products and you never hear about them because they work well. There are however, some area that could use improvement.


One posted listed HD Radio, Wireless, streaming, etc... Nick you said you feel these are not high end options. You might be right, but they are value added and a lot of people want them. I do not want to use an Apple TV, Roku, Boxee, etc. their quality of output and support for true Full HD video and audio is not always there and recommending a $99 item to people that shelled out $6000 to $7500 on pre/pro is not really what many of us are looking for.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20253713
> 
> 
> One posted listed HD Radio, Wireless, streaming, etc... Nick you said you feel these are not high end options. You might be right, but they are value added and a lot of people want them. I do not want to use an Apple TV, Roku, Boxee, etc. their quality of output and support for true Full HD video and audio is not always there and recommending a $99 item to people that shelled out $6000 to $7500 on pre/pro is not really what many of us are looking for.



I agree with Nick on this one. I'd rather they keep it a *preamp* not a source device, and concentrate on the things that make a preamp pleasant to use (your other points: UI, remote). You think the thread is busy now, imagine if they added all the streaming services. At this price point I want to talk about hi-fi. (I've abandoned the new Sony BDP threads because all they talk about is Netflix support and other low-fi gimmicks. Nobody wants to talk about audio/video performance.)


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Thanks David for the suggestions. They're all things on many people's wish list. By the way for the meaning of timings see the pdf in the ARC download Utilities folder - there's a lot more to it than resolution and refresh rate.


And once again it's not like we're on a mission to price ourselves out of the market. Few people can predict revolutionary changes and their demand. History repeats itself only when you look for patterns and when you don't reality can be much more random. Before the D1 came out we had sights on HDMI (this was at a time when everyone was still asking about DVI) but not the version changes that were to follow... and who did? The other option would have been to not have upgrades at all. By the way they're not mentioned in lit at all as of D2v introduction yet the 3D upgrade is another last minute adaptation.


Please don't forget to keep your priorities in line, after all these are luxury goods meant for such a market. A lot more D2 owners went for the trade-in than AVM 50 owners, and in that case those who did mostly went for a D2v instead of AVM 50v. Does that surprise you? The second part surprised us - we didn't even have AVM 50 to D2v trade-up on the original trade-in price list.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20252988
> 
> 
> In an earlier post, i believe you said that we send you the timings of any custom video resolution? My Dell laptop is 1440 x [email protected] 60hz in 32-bit color. I have to settle for 1280 x 720p in the Anthem to display something decent from my laptops HDMI port but its never optimal at all.



We are talking about output resolution (I assume you're not trying to output images to the laptop) for displays that support non-standard resolutions and timings. A CRT projector works like an analog multi-sync monitor. They have no "native" res.


If you have a digital projector or flat panel TV then chances are your resolution is already supported. If you want to send 1440x900 from your laptop you can, but it needs to be scaled at some point to match the display's native res, and it might as well be the Anthem VXP doing the scaling.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20234618
> 
> *Low power-on volume:*
> 
> Known but due to rare occurence it's unpredictable therefore hard to fix.
> 
> *Occasional random reboots:*
> 
> Now there's a good reason to temporarily bypass power conditioner and see whether there's an effect.



I'll follow-up with Tech Support, but the low-volume is getting more frequent, almost daily now. It seems to be more likely if an HDMI source component (eg: BDP) is turned on before turning on the Anthem (this also causes other wierdness like green or pink screens). The funny thing is it can be fixed as you know, by cycling power on the Anthem, without ever turning off said source component. The other time is immediately after using the serial connection to run ARC.


For the reboots, it seems to be based on some user activity in the SETUP menu (eg: scrolling through the VIDEO OUTPUT configurations) rather than something spontaneous while the unit is just decoding audio/video. It never happens when I'm actually watching a program and not touching the remote.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20253713
> 
> 
> ...Also the remote is not exactly modern for today's use and level of the unit. It is a hard button remote, yet there are not dedicated buttons for items that should have dedicated buttons.
> 
> 
> ...I do not want to use an Apple TV, Roku, Boxee, etc. their quality of output and support for true Full HD video and audio is not always there and recommending a $99 item to people that shelled out $6000 to $7500 on pre/pro is not really what many of us are looking for.



Others can speak for themselves - what *exactly* are you looking for and roughly how much would it be worth to you? What built-in solution exists in this regard and is it really better than an external one?


I've been looking for another remote since the AVM 2 days - Pronto was then a contender but even in 4-digit quantities straight from Philips they were way too expensive, and its manual was longer than the prepro's. The scenario is always the same except that apps are gradually taking over*: You can't please everyone so the best hope is to try to please the lowest common denominator. On one hand custom installers want the cheapest throwaway remote possible, and they're a big part of our customer base. Although that's not what we use - it's backlit including mode indication, rubberized, learning, largest persistent memory available, most extensive code library available, lots of buttons, lots of modes, four colours... all this doubles the cost of the base template - I keep coming to the conclusion that what you see fits the bill better than anything else.


*iRule has been mentioned here and I did get a chance to check it out... it's nice! Maybe your best solution is this plus the cheapest iPod Touch if you don't have an iPhone, and a Global Cache iTach. Two years ago you would have needed an expensive custom setup to get this functionality.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20253947
> 
> 
> iRule has been mentioned here and I did get a chance to check it out... it's nice! Maybe your best solution is this plus the cheapest iPod Touch if you don't have an iPhone, and a Global Cache iTach. Two years ago you would have needed an expensive custom setup to get this functionality.



I agree with you in regard to the issue of remote controls and streaming services. Neither a fancy remote nor streaming service support belong as part of the D2V. People have different ideas as to what they want in these areas and there are many good aftermarket options, the best of which I think is a HTPC. These are rapidly changing areas, and including these in the D2V just drives the cost up to people who already have good solutions in this area and diverts the attention of your shop from what it should be focussing on. The D2V is not a flavor of the month investment like the latest mass market receiver can be.


The only thing I'd see as an need is better connectivity for software upgrades and the calibration process. RS-232 is a pain. If I had to choose it would be ethernet.


----------



## Surfrider

Nick, ETA on HDMI 1.4 upgrades for D2v?


My retailer (middle east) said she called you guys and were told (Q3/Q4). Ive got a burned up Denon receiver and need an immediate replacement. I want to step it up to D2v / P5, but I wont pull the trigger until its been updated.


How long am I realistically looking at waiting??


Thanks!


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20252761
> 
> 
> If you haven't done so send a detailed description of the quirk to tech support but be warned that for a problem to be fixable it has to be reproducible i.e. the software engineers need the exact steps to make it happen often enough to catch.



I knew you would ask. Unfortunately to reproduce it would require flying my wife up to your lab.







Seriously though it is mostly related to my cable STB when it switches resolutions. For the record I don't consider locking the resolution on the STB or switching to component as solutions. Not really directing this to you Nick but I know others will pop up with those suggestions.



> Quote:
> Suggestions are always appreciated and valued.
> 
> 
> re newfangled features I agree on the programming connection type and explained why things remain as they are earlier today. I disagree on anything to do with networked media - just connect a AppleTV, Boxee, Logitech Revue, PS3 - the list goes on. Specialized devices like these have richer features than anyone's built-in interface and have a better chance of staying up to date. And they're cheap. With 8 HDMI inputs on a D2 or D2v, i.e. likely at least one to spare, this would be my choice.



My D2 only has four HDMIs did I miss something?


I can see your point on the media streamers I actually have several Logitech boxes and a WDLive. It is a philosophical disagreement but in my opinion at least a basic form of streaming should exist in the center of my A/V system, at a minimum I would expect a DLNA compliant client and it would be nice to be able to plug a USB storage device directly into the pre/pro and stream from it. I'm struggling to understand why this is OK on the receivers but not the pre/pros.


> Quote:
> re multiple sub channels there's no technical merit (see http://www.anthemav.com/index.php?vi...n=com_quickfaq and go to first question on page 3) except EQing each sub before EQing the combination. Now for a shameless plug for current Paradigm subs, all of which can be EQd via a $99 PBK kit, except the three cheapest models. PBK is the sub-only ARC counterpart.
> 
> 
> re multiple subs/transducers just run a splitter (there's no loss, this isn't impedance-matched coax video nor parallel speakers - also explained in the FAQ) and if your transducers don't have level control set D2 sub level according to desired transducer level then make final adjustment using sub's own level dials.



Can't say I agree or disagree with the FAQ referenced but I'm not necessarily looking for Stereo bass and totally misses what many HT setups require. What I want is separate phase/polarity/distance/crossover settings for my various subs which are not co-located and spread through out the room. In addition I'd like to be able to have an independent crossover for my seat transducers. Actually once they are all phase matched I would have no problem with ARC treating it as one channel.


I'd also like to say thanks for stopping by. I know it can quickly turn in to a hornets nest around here but I always appreciate it when you stop by.


----------



## xMEATx

I have recently changed dish services to another carrier, whose sat receiver does not allow for native resolutions to be sent out to the anthem. Now my only choices are to send a fixed resolution to the anthem, such as 1080i, 720p. What does everyone recommend setting the sat receiver's output resolution to? I use HDMI for video/audio. I have to say, I feel the new picture is not as good as before. Thanks for your help.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/20254632
> 
> 
> I have recently changed dish services to another carrier, whose sat receiver does not allow for native resolutions to be sent out to the anthem. Now my only choices are to send a fixed resolution to the anthem, such as 1080i, 720p. What does everyone recommend setting the sat receiver's output resolution to? I use HDMI for video/audio. I have to say, I feel the new picture is not as good as before. Thanks for your help.



1080i would be the majority. If you're going to watch a marathon on ABC or PBS you might want to switch to 720p for the day.


----------



## AVfile

Can anyone recommend an inexpensive Composite (RCA) to S-video converter? I want to connect my old LD player to the Anthem but it doesn't scale Composite.


----------



## obie_fl

$15 cheap enough? RCA-DT5CS-Composite-Converter-Bidirectional 


Maybe I need to retire my Toshiba HD DVD player and hook my Laserdisc player back up. The new releases are about the same.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20253947
> 
> 
> .......I've been looking for another remote since ....... it's backlit including mode indication, *rubberized*, learning, largest persistent memory available, most extensive code library available, lots of buttons, lots of modes, four colours... .



Hi Nick,


I wasn't going to add to the chorus of whines, but since you used the magic word, I thought it appropriate to mention that the 'rubberized' feel of the Anthem remote appears to be a coating of Nextel paint which is said to be toxic.


It was used on a range of speakers one of which I owned some years back, but when it had a habit of turning sticky (the paintwork, not the speakers), it's use was discontinued by the manufacturers. I am now experiencing the same stickiness on your remote too and had to clean it off with alchohol (like I did with my speakers, as well as a Microsoft mouse).


Perhaps Anthem should take note and discontinue this 'rubberized' thing.


Ben


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/20254963
> 
> 
> Hi Nick,
> 
> 
> I wasn't going to add to the chorus of whines, but since you used the magic word, I thought it appropriate to mention that the 'rubberized' feel of the Anthem remote appears to be a coating of Nextel paint which is said to be toxic.
> 
> 
> It was used on a range of speakers one of which I owned some years back, but when it had a habit of turning sticky (the paintwork, not the speakers), it's use was discontinued by the manufacturers. I am now experiencing the same stickiness on your remote too and had to clean it off with alchohol (like I did with my speakers, as well as a Microsoft mouse).
> 
> 
> Perhaps Anthem should take note and discontinue this 'rubberized' thing.
> 
> 
> Ben



I will venture to guess less than 5% of D2 orD2v users use the remote except for possibly setup purposes. Harmony ,Crestron Pronto an others are the norm for more than 2 pieces of equipment.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20254922
> 
> 
> $15 cheap enough? RCA-DT5CS-Composite-Converter-Bidirectional
> 
> 
> Maybe I need to retire my Toshiba HD DVD player and hook my Laserdisc player back up. The new releases are about the same.



Thanks. I didn't think a passive device could properly split the signal into Y/C but I should be able to find one locally and it would be a cheap experiment.


I know it's totally retro, but I've got some pretty cool LD's with DTS sound that blows away the DVDs.







Unfortunately the S-video output on my Elite CLD-59 is flaky so I have to use composite. Fortunately my ancient CRT PJ is great with analog signals


----------



## rovingtravler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20253755
> 
> 
> Thanks David for the suggestions. They're all things on many people's wish list. By the way for the meaning of timings see the pdf in the ARC download Utilities folder - there's a lot more to it than resolution and refresh rate.
> 
> 
> And once again it's not like we're on a mission to price ourselves out of the market. Few people can predict revolutionary changes and their demand. History repeats itself only when you look for patterns and when you don't reality can be much more random. Before the D1 came out we had sights on HDMI (this was at a time when everyone was still asking about DVI) but not the version changes that were to follow... and who did? The other option would have been to not have upgrades at all. By the way they're not mentioned in lit at all as of D2v introduction yet the 3D upgrade is another last minute adaptation.
> 
> 
> Please don't forget to keep your priorities in line, after all these are luxury goods meant for such a market. A lot more D2 owners went for the trade-in than AVM 50 owners, and in that case those who did mostly went for a D2v instead of AVM 50v. Does that surprise you? The second part surprised us - we didn't even have AVM 50 to D2v trade-up on the original trade-in price list.



Nick,


I was talking about the vidoe processor setting not arc. I can understand ARC not being built in as it was added much later and the computing power of well a computer is probably better suited. My comments questions issues I believe apply to both the 50v and D2v. I understand I have a pre/pro with inferior audio hardware as compared to the D2v, but that should not discount the menu and remote issues since both are common to both systems.


I am also not asking anyone to predict the future, but as others have said, the addition of these futures to the receiver line with no chance of upgrade is disheartening. I agree I am not looking for streaming Netflix, but streaming radio and HD raido would be nice. or streaming full bit for bit rips of CDs would be nice.


As for remote not all of us have a crestron or AMX or ther ultra high end remote laying around. I understand maybe the D2v base "throws" away their remote, but for a manufacture to say if you and many others want more functionality go buy a $400 ipod I think that is off base for the 50v crowd. I do not think the remote should everything, but it should be very functional from the start.


Dmorse. I have to look at things from a non-D2v only stand point and if you do use the remote there are better ones out there even for oem purposes. Logitech makes great remotes I have a 900, however, I keep the manufacturer one arround as they should be the best layout to access every feature with actual labeled buttons.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20255184
> 
> 
> As for remote not all of us have a crestron or AMX or ther ultra high end remote laying around.


*WHY NOT?*


Mr. Ferrari should have one or the other


----------



## rovingtravler

That is why I am a lamborghini man DrHankz.







Doesn't everybody need another hobby besides Home theater










[post=20058841]


not sure how to link to another post so here is the pic.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20253761
> 
> 
> We are talking about output resolution (I assume you're not trying to output images to the laptop) for displays that support non-standard resolutions and timings. A CRT projector works like an analog multi-sync monitor. They have no "native" res.
> 
> Yes, I have a pioneer kuro 60" plasma i want to display my laptop video.
> 
> 
> If you have a digital projector or flat panel TV then chances are your resolution is already supported. If you want to send 1440x900 from your laptop you can, but it needs to be scaled at some point to match the display's native res, and it might as well be the Anthem VXP doing the scaling.
> 
> This is where i'd need the custom settings to support the odd 1440 x 900 resolution of my dell studio laptop.



See my comments above...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20255296
> 
> 
> That is why I am a lamborghini man DrHankz.



As a Ferrari man - I only Use Crestron.


As a Lamborghini man - You Should have BOTH


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20253838
> 
> 
> I'll follow-up with Tech Support, but the low-volume is getting more frequent, almost daily now. It seems to be more likely if an HDMI source component (eg: BDP) is turned on before turning on the Anthem (this also causes other wierdness like green or pink screens). The funny thing is it can be fixed as you know, by cycling power on the Anthem, without ever turning off said source component. The other time is immediately after using the serial connection to run ARC.
> 
> 
> For the reboots, it seems to be based on some user activity in the SETUP menu (eg: scrolling through the VIDEO OUTPUT configurations) rather than something spontaneous while the unit is just decoding audio/video. It never happens when I'm actually watching a program and not touching the remote.



I know of a way to guarantee low volume within the Anthem. Go to the Calibration menu and voila! Volume thankfully drops to a low level in this menu. You get out of it and volume returns to normal







.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20255124
> 
> 
> Thanks. I didn't think a passive device could properly split the signal into Y/C but I should be able to find one locally and it would be a cheap experiment.
> 
> 
> I know it's totally retro, but I've got some pretty cool LD's with DTS sound that blows away the DVDs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately the S-video output on my Elite CLD-59 is flaky so I have to use composite. Fortunately my ancient CRT PJ is great with analog signals



To be honest I thought you needed a comb filter to go from composite to S-Vid not sure how that device I linked does it but it definitely says bi-directional. And for the record I'm an analog CRT guy too.


----------



## rovingtravler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20255319
> 
> 
> As a Ferrari man - I only Use Crestron.
> 
> 
> As a Lamborghini man - You Should have BOTH



Thanks,


I needed a laugh today at work.


Hopefully you find the sig funny and not offensive. I love getting together with any of the exotic car club guys and gals.


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20249396
> 
> 
> I've said these things again and again in private messages, reiterated here strictly for anyone who has an issue with Anthem's policies:
> 
> 
> HDMI problems that existed with sources a couple of years ago are mostly sorted out in the sources so they're non-issues now. I've taken a look at D2 software inquiries over the past several months and don't see more than one request, more like a shame-into-guilt attempt which hasn't flown with me since I was about seven, for a D2 update that would address an HDMI handshake problem. It was for an aging satellite receiver and my response was the same as in 2006 - use component. We can't support other companies' ancient problems especially when those companies never did. As readers here know our plan was to port applicable D2v HDMI code to D2 but things are so stable now why rock the boat? If you have a real D2 issue that justifies a fix through D2 software then send your request to [email protected] but be warned that if it's in regard to an old source with a history of HDMI instability then there won't be a fix.
> 
> 
> Hardware upgrades - timing is everything. If you had a D1 in the D2 days, a $2K upgrade was available to add HDMI and video processing. In my opinion the only upgrade in the history of home theater that was any more of a steal compared to this is anything that was applicable to the AVM 20, a model that appeared in 2001 and was upgradeable seven years later. (People bought the AVM 20 v1 after hearing about the AVM 2 which got us there eleven years ago, and some AVM 2 owners cried foul even though no one ever said it was hardware-upgradeable.) If you had a D1 and went for the D2v trade-in up to around a year ago, we were effectively buying back your D1, then a six year old model, for more than half of its list price. In my opinion this was also very generous and then unmatched by selling privately, by wide margin. Some have stated that there's no way they'd pay more than $2k for this trade-in but the list price difference between D1 and D2v is $3500 therefore trading in for less than that (or even the same amount) is impossible. Upgrade prices have changed in the last year and at this time you'd be better off selling old equipment privately.
> 
> 
> That's only part of Anthem's upgrade history and regard for existing customers.
> 
> 
> As for the controversial D2 to D2v trade-in, I always said there's nothing wrong with source decoding and always recommended against a D2 being traded in for D2v due to low value in doing so, but the numbers speak for themselves - many people have traded in. The only reason that D2v exists is not because HDMI introduced HDMI v1.3 but because of the overwhelming number of people that were willing to pay for it. Consumers as a group often forget how often they're accomplices. This entire AV processor platform would have been killed in favour of a new one (my wish, also ending hardware upgrades altogether in a fast-changing HDMI world) and yet it's still not happening - 3D hardware which we're working on for the D2v and AVM 50v adds another chapter.
> 
> 
> You see, we are giving people what they want. The de facto boss is none other than the end user, and majority rules.



Nick,

Thank you for your response in great detail. I was told by Piero last year, ( around March ) that there was a new firmware coming out soon. Then you mentioned again last year the same thing. Can we say confusion, together. If there will be no fix for the HDMI using a Rogers DVR, then so be it. Just let us know and we won't expect a fix. I love my D2 and the odd time I need to power up/down is no skin off my butt. It's not just the DVR that I have a quirk with, the odd time my OPPO, DENON DVD and PS3 will lock up the D2. Some times just changing sources will lock it up, again no big deal. The D2 is THE BEST unit out there, ( ok D2.V ) and can't wait for the D3 or D4 or D5.

When will V1.47 be final if there is no fix in the future?

Thanks for your time


----------



## Milt99

Wow, this thread has taken off in the last few days, eh?

Thanks Nick, for spelling out the 1.47f firmware specifics.


I too would echo dmusoke's request for greater subwoofer management.

This would be a huge improvement for a lot of users.

Running 2 or more subs has really become more common and it is a bear to do right manually.


I always thought that if you guys did do a D3, it would be another level up in the D-series and not a replacement.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20255318
> 
> 
> See my comments above...



Just configure your 2nd display in the laptop's desktop/OS to match the res of the TV (1920x1080). No need to drive an external monitor at the same res as the laptop's built-in LCD (1400x1050). Even if you did, can the Anthem not scale 1400x1050 to 1920x1080? Of course this won't look as good as just making your 2nd display 1920x1080 to begin with.


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20255383
> 
> 
> To be honest I thought you needed a comb filter to go from composite to S-Vid not sure how that device I linked does it but it definitely says bi-directional. And for the record I'm an analog CRT guy too.



I have an 8-track tape player in my system, can you tell me the best way to connect this unit to the D2.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20256877
> 
> 
> Just configure your 2nd display in the laptop's desktop/OS to match the res of the TV (1920x1080). No need to drive an external monitor at the same res as the laptop's built-in LCD (1400x1050). Even if you did, can the Anthem not scale 1400x1050 to 1920x1080? Of course this won't look as good as just making your 2nd display 1920x1080 to begin with.



AVfile:


My laptops maximum resolution is 1440 x 900, so setting the 2nd display to 1920 x 1080 isn't an option for me, unfortunately. Yes, the anthem can scale the laptops native resolution but everything is letter-boxed and looks squished but i make do anyways.


Thanx for your good suggestions....


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/20258020
> 
> 
> I have an 8-track tape player in my system, can you tell me the best way to connect this unit to the D2.



....via the tape input of the D2?







You can select analogDSP for ARC for passthrough if you want.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/20255083
> 
> 
> I will venture to guess less than 5% of D2 orD2v users use the remote except for possibly setup purposes. Harmony ,Crestron Pronto an others are the norm for more than 2 pieces of equipment.



Spent all money on D2v, non left over for Harmony.


----------



## JimP

Has anyone with a D2V found that their system sound better without ARC than with ARC?


Can you totally bypass all video processing and if so, does the picture look exactly the same as running HDMI from the source device to the display? This may sound like a stupid question to many but I had a very recent experience with another prepro that even with all video processing turned off, you could see that the picture was different.


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone with a D2V found that their system sound better without ARC than with ARC?
> 
> 
> Can you totally bypass all video processing and if so, does the picture look exactly the same as running HDMI from the source device to the display? This may sound like a stupid question to many but I had a very recent experience with another prepro that even with all video processing turned off, you could see that the picture was different.




ARC makes an improvement in my room, no doubt about it...I don't believe it is possible to bypass the video processor, but I think it makes a positive improvement with my video sources.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/20258463
> 
> 
> Has anyone with a D2V found that their system sound better without ARC than with ARC?
> 
> 
> Can you totally bypass all video processing and if so, does the picture look exactly the same as running HDMI from the source device to the display? This may sound like a stupid question to many but I had a very recent experience with another prepro that even with all video processing turned off, you could see that the picture was different.



I know this is a long thread, but just randomly pick some pages and I think you'll get your answer about ARC









John


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *JimP* 
Has anyone with a D2V found that their system sound better without ARC than with ARC?


Can you totally bypass all video processing and if so, does the picture look exactly the same as running HDMI from the source device to the display? This may sound like a stupid question to many but I had a very recent experience with another prepro that even with all video processing turned off, you could see that the picture was different.
1. You surely jest, i reckon







!


2. If you have component in and out, then i believe you can bypass the video processor. But with HDMI, no. The Gennum processor is excellent imo for i use it to scale my 1080i HD broadcasts to 1080p and it looks awesome.

If you set the video output configuration to match the i/p signal, then little or no processing will happen in the Gennum and you'd be getting the equivalent of video pass-through.


----------



## JimP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20260070
> 
> 
> 1. You surely jest, i reckon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 2. If you have component in and out, then i believe you can bypass the video processor. But with HDMI, no. The Gennum processor is excellent imo for i use it to scale my 1080i HD broadcasts to 1080p and it looks awesome.
> 
> If you set the video output configuration to match the i/p signal, then little or no processing will happen in the Gennum and you'd be getting the equivalent of video pass-through.



Surely, I don't gest.










Just asking questions that I don't recall seeing answered before.


If someone would rather PM me with a response, that's fine. Too often people don't want to respond in the open forum in fear of getting flamed.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Surely, I don't gest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just asking questions that I don't recall seeing answered before.
> 
> 
> If someone would rather PM me with a response, that's fine. Too often people don't want to respond in the open forum in fear of getting flamed.



Flame away.







ARC is a fantastic addition to an already great pre/pro. Check out some of the reviews. Your system will never sound better.

John


----------



## JimP

John,


Just curious, how do you know that my system will never sound better?


After all, won't Anthem improve their products and in the future something would come out that would make my system sound better?


Just screwing with you.










I'm just trying to get good information on a product that I may be buying. Professional reviews are important but I've seen too many of those not finding issues that were found by users.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/20261160
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> Just curious, how do you know that my system will never sound better?
> 
> 
> After all, won't Anthem improve their products and in the future something would come out that would make my system sound better?
> 
> 
> Just screwing with you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just trying to get good information on a product that I may be buying. Professional reviews are important but I've seen too many of those not finding issues that were found by users.



Most of the issues on the thousand pages has to do with connectivity and HDMI issues. For the most part ARC has delivered the goods and a lot of tweaking questions and posting of charts by owners is what we deal with here. Perhaps you can be more specific with your questions so people can focus on that instead of getting many comments on how wonderful ARC is.

I can't remember one owner stating his system sounded worse with ARC so perhaps that answers your question.

John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20261444
> 
> 
> most of the issues on the thousand pages has to do with connectivity and hdmi issues. For the most part arc has delivered the goods and a lot of tweaking questions and posting of charts by owners is what we deal with here. Perhaps you can be more specific with your questions so people can focus on that instead of getting many comments on how wonderful arc is.
> 
> I can't remember one owner stating his system sounded worse with arc so perhaps that answers your question.
> 
> John



+1


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20261444
> 
> 
> Most of the issues on the thousand pages has to do with connectivity and HDMI issues. For the most part ARC has delivered the goods and a lot of tweaking questions and posting of charts by owners is what we deal with here. Perhaps you can be more specific with your questions so people can focus on that instead of getting many comments on how wonderful ARC is.
> 
> I can't remember one owner stating his system sounded worse with ARC so perhaps that answers your question.
> 
> John



I concur. I own a D2 and is does everything you could ask. I have zero HDMI handshake problems. i am using an OPPO BDP83SE, Comcast Motorola DCT6412III DVR, Popcorn Hour C-200, Apple Mini PC and JVC HM-100 Digital VHS.

After searching extensively thru all the threads here and in multiple forums the result was the Anthem D2 or D2v sounds better than any other HT surround processor. And you can always bypass the digital inputs and use analog direct for those instances where you use an external Hi End DAC, a music server and HiRez files (176/24 or 192/24).


----------



## nine ball

since I have been active on this thread. I have been busy building a fish tank. Yesterday, with a request for help on this thread Jayray has helped raise the bar for excellence in my home theater. I have a D2V that has been waiting for a system refresh and I thought I was making progress until today. As most of you know with a system firmware update and thorough audio calibration there is a considerable amount of change taking place.


John was incredible. His knowledge and support was invaluable. I appreciate the effort John and you certainly deserve public recognition for just how effective your help has been in maximizing the benefits of the D2V on my home theater. The net result of your effort on the performance of my system is nothing short of magical. I have never heard it sound this good and I don't think my imagination could even improve the real world results.


I would like to thank Anthem support in this process as well. I have always been a fan of this technology and this recent experience with your help has made this customer very happy. I am one of those folks who had a D2 and bought a D2v without taking advantage of the trade up. With the performance I am getting in my theater you can't have it back at twice the price!!!!!

By the way, I would strongly recommend packaging John with every install. He was worth his weight in gold.


Peter


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> since I have been active on this thread. I have been busy building a fish tank. Yesterday, with a request for help on this thread Jayray has helped raise the bar for excellence in my home theater. I have a D2V that has been waiting for a system refresh and I thought I was making progress until today. As most of you know with a system firmware update and thorough audio calibration there is a considerable amount of change taking place.
> 
> 
> John was incredible. His knowledge and support was invaluable. I appreciate the effort John and you certainly deserve public recognition for just how effective your help has been in maximizing the benefits of the D2V on my home theater. The net result of your effort on the performance of my system is nothing short of magical. I have never heard it sound this good and I don't think my imagination could even improve the real world results.
> 
> 
> I would like to thank Anthem support in this process as well. I have always been a fan of this technology and this recent experience with your help has made this customer very happy. I am one of those folks who had a D2 and bought a D2v without taking advantage of the trade up. With the performance I am getting in my theater you can't have it back at twice the price!!!!!
> 
> By the way, I would strongly recommend packaging John with every install. He was worth his weight in gold.
> 
> 
> Peter



Thanks Peter, but I'm afraid I wouldn't fit in the box









John


----------



## Texas steve

John you have helped us all!! In fact you helped me spend my money on a Sub 25!!! Ok, ok, but in the end it was absloutly worth it!!

























> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20262011
> 
> 
> Thanks Peter, but I'm afraid I wouldn't fit in the box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok I did some testing last night and switched off the Overscan setting to "off" (Epson TW-3200) and played some 2:35 and 1:78 content and it fills the screen perfectly (1:78 does) black borders are thicker on 2:35 which is normal after turning off Overscan. Now what doesn't fill the screen is 1:85 ratio and there's about 1.5cm-2cm top and bottom on the screen left to fill so like very thin black borders. I used the test pattern on the projector set it so the box is centered and the top and bottom lines of the box are as close to the edges as possible using the verticle and horizontal lens shift as well as the zoom.


How does one setup this projector on a 100" screen so it fills all 3 ratio's? In order for the 1:85 image to fill the entire screen I have to set the Overscan to 4% but from reading about this setting it degrades the picture. Any ideas? Am I missing something in the setup on either the projector or the Anthem D2v processor? The Oppo BD-83 is set to Auto Wide under video settings.


Sorry if this is getting off main topic of this thread but I thought I would ask here as the D2v is in the chain and I may have missed a setting.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> John you have helped us all!! In fact you helped me spend my money on a Sub 25!!! Ok, ok, but in the end it was absloutly worth it!!



Steve,

You're giving your wife a good reason to dislike me









John


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20252415
> 
> 
> Nick,
> 
> I guess the D2 owners would like to know once and for all, if a FW upgrade is on the menu and hopefully would dial down the chatter on this topic here once and for all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



It appears we will not get the definitive answer we seek ....... or maybe we have. It appears despite the several promises for a new final version of 1.47F for the D2, it is now felt it is not needed, unless I totally misread Nick's recent post on the subject.


I might comment that if Anthem is not hearing from very many for an updated D2 firmware or HDMI handshake fix, maybe it's because most have given up on it. Just a thought.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/20263281
> 
> 
> It appears we will not get the definitive answer we seek ....... or maybe we have. It appears despite the several promises for a new final version of 1.47F for the D2, it is now felt it is not needed, unless I totally misread Nick's recent post on the subject.
> 
> 
> I might comment that if Anthem is not hearing from very many for an updated D2 firmware or HDMI handshake fix, maybe it's because most have given up on it. Just a thought.



Nick specifically said that he looked at their 'problems database' and it only showed am HDMI problem with a cable box i blieve but i may be mistaken.


Can you write down the issues you are having with the current FW in your D2 that need fixing and send them to Anthem? I think its a mistaken belief that posting problems on this forum is the same as sending them to Anthem tech support, which is definately false.


----------



## Texas steve

She has a little "John" doll with pins stuck in the ears!!!


















> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20262463
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> You're giving your wife a good reason to dislike me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20262247
> 
> 
> Ok I did some testing last night and switched off the Overscan setting to "off" (Epson TW-3200) and played some 2:35 and 1:78 content and it fills the screen perfectly (1:78 does) black borders are thicker on 2:35 which is normal after turning off Overscan. Now what doesn't fill the screen is 1:85 ratio and there's about 1.5cm-2cm top and bottom on the screen left to fill so like very thin black borders. I used the test pattern on the projector set it so the box is centered and the top and bottom lines of the box are as close to the edges as possible using the verticle and horizontal lens shift as well as the zoom.
> 
> 
> How does one setup this projector on a 100" screen so it fills all 3 ratio's? In order for the 1:85 image to fill the entire screen I have to set the Overscan to 4% but from reading about this setting it degrades the picture. Any ideas? Am I missing something in the setup on either the projector or the Anthem D2v processor? The Oppo BD-83 is set to Auto Wide under video settings.
> 
> 
> Sorry if this is getting off main topic of this thread but I thought I would ask here as the D2v is in the chain and I may have missed a setting.



you have to use masking (to cover the bars), or an anamorphic lens to stretch the picture to fill the screen - a 16x9 screen will only display 1:78 material without black bars

i think most people live with the black bars while watching other formats


mark


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *texas steve* /forum/post/20264555
> 
> 
> she has a little "john" doll with pins stuck in the ears!!!:d



That's funny


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20245683
> 
> 
> Could be today or Monday. It is very close to release and if experience with the Beta is any indication, it looks good.
> 
> John



Any further news on the release of 2.11 ? I'm planning a day off to do some HT upgrades Friday and it would be nice to update the D2V as part of this.


----------



## Texas steve

Did you tell your Boss that you were gooffing off to update your system?!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20264950
> 
> 
> Any further news on the release of 2.11 ? I'm planning a day off to do some HT upgrades Friday and it would be nice to update the D2V as part of this.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/20264984
> 
> 
> Did you tell your Boss that you were gooffing off to update your system?!!



My wife already knows.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20264950
> 
> 
> Any further news on the release of 2.11 ? I'm planning a day off to do some HT upgrades Friday and it would be nice to update the D2V as part of this.



It was supposed to be out end of last week but I guess they found something to fix. Can't really say at this point.

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/20264584
> 
> 
> i think most people live with the black bars while watching other formats



Especially people with 100" screens


----------



## Kensmith48

Lets not forget about Bob's invaluable help also. Without his expertise I probably would of gotten a refund on my D2. He helped alot in fixing my D2's bugs.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20265147
> 
> 
> My wife already knows.




lol


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/20267124
> 
> 
> Lets not forget about Bob's invaluable help also. Without his expertise I probably would of gotten a refund on my D2. He helped alot in fixing my D2's bugs.



I don't think any of us will forget how much he has taught us. I won't









John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20267228
> 
> 
> I don't think any of us will forget how much he has taught us. I won't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



+1. That's such a VERY TRUE STATEMENT!!!!!!!


----------



## Heybrook

+2 he is [or was ] like having your own personal designer.

THX Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Heybrook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> +2 he is [or was ] like having your own personal designer.
> 
> THX Bob



He is still around









John


----------



## Heybrook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20267907
> 
> 
> He is still around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I know he still pops in now and again, and you guys are doing a great job with helping out. Hopefully he is just enjoying the sound as much as we are....


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Heybrook* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I know he still pops in now and again, and you guys are doing a great job with helping out. Hopefully he is just enjoying the sound as much as we are....



Apparently he's beta testing for Oppo and that takes up a lot of his time.

John


----------



## Donloz

We all have questions, some good and some ???? My poll question is:::::

How many people have actually read the D2 or D2.v manual. Front to back, back to front. When one has a question, do you look in the manual or ask Bob. Do you try to figure it out and learn on your own, or do you ask Bob. All answers are in the manual. Bob does give more GREAT detailed answers to the question.

Now being TOTALLY HONEST with your selfs, how many people have read the manual.????? With some questions here, I would say that they didn't even know there was a manual. I definently don't know as much as Bob or other great peoples out there in the D2 world. We all have a great unit and would like to set it up to the best parameters as possible. ARC is the BOMB...

I would like to see Anthem have ;;; A manual to understand ARC levels, discribe what all the levels mean, the +'s and -'s , not everybody is an electrical engineer.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We all have questions, some good and some ???? My poll question is:::::
> 
> How many people have actually read the D2 or D2.v manual. Front to back, back to front. When one has a question, do you look in the manual or ask Bob. Do you try to figure it out and learn on your own, or do you ask Bob. All answers are in the manual. Bob does give more GREAT detailed answers to the question.
> 
> Now being TOTALLY HONEST with your selfs, how many people have read the manual.????? With some questions here, I would say that they didn't even know there was a manual. I definently don't know as much as Bob or other great peoples out there in the D2 world. We all have a great unit and would like to set it up to the best parameters as possible. ARC is the BOMB...
> 
> I would like to see Anthem have ;;; A manual to understand ARC levels, discribe what all the levels mean, the +'s and -'s , not everybody is an electrical engineer.



I've read the manual. Printed a copy and bound it, I like paper in my hand







I read all my manuals but I agree it pays to do that before asking others. Below Bob's name you will see "Read the FAQ" Good advice. There is a lot of good info on the inner workings of ARC as well.

John


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20268635
> 
> 
> I've read the manual. Printed a copy and bound it, I like paper in my hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I read all my manuals but I agree it pays to do that before asking others. Below Bob's name you will see "Read the FAQ" Good advice. There is a lot of good info on the inner workings of ARC as well.
> 
> John



THX, I too have bonded every manual I use in my system. Some times the small print is missed, "READ THE faq" ( By Bob P.) It"s good, I like it, it works. Thanx Bob,,,Where would I find the ARC info? Is there a white sheet some place?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> THX, I too have bonded every manual I use in my system. Some times the small print is missed, "READ THE faq" ( By Bob P.) It"s good, I like it, it works. Thanx Bob,,,Where would I find the ARC info? Is there a white sheet some place?



ARC facts are in the first few links of the FAQ. Anthem doesn't give much away as to what's under the hood as it is a proprietary system. As for a better explanation of the tweakable parts, most of that is also in the FAQ..

John


----------



## ninja12

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Donloz* 
We all have questions, some good and some ???? My poll question is:::::

How many people have actually read the D2 or D2.v manual. Front to back, back to front. When one has a question, do you look in the manual or ask Bob. Do you try to figure it out and learn on your own, or do you ask Bob. All answers are in the manual. Bob does give more GREAT detailed answers to the question.

Now being TOTALLY HONEST with your selfs, how many people have read the manual.????? With some questions here, I would say that they didn't even know there was a manual. I definently don't know as much as Bob or other great peoples out there in the D2 world. We all have a great unit and would like to set it up to the best parameters as possible. ARC is the BOMB...

I would like to see Anthem have ;;; A manual to understand ARC levels, discribe what all the levels mean, the +'s and -'s , not everybody is an electrical engineer.








I read the manual before I even went to demo the D2. I wanted to be fully informed about what I was getting into. The dealer realized that I had did my homework and really just left me alone with the D2 in a closed room. As he said, "I see you have already done your homework. So, I am going to step out and leave you with the D2". I had a chance to go through everything on the D2. That was time very well spent. So, when I brought my D2 home, I was able to jump in with both feet.


----------



## tngiloy

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Donloz* 
We all have questions, some good and some ???? My poll question is:::::

How many people have actually read the D2 or D2.v manual. Front to back, back to front. When one has a question, do you look in the manual or ask Bob. Do you try to figure it out and learn on your own, or do you ask Bob. All answers are in the manual. Bob does give more GREAT detailed answers to the question.

Now being TOTALLY HONEST with your selfs, how many people have read the manual.????? With some questions here, I would say that they didn't even know there was a manual. I definently don't know as much as Bob or other great peoples out there in the D2 world. We all have a great unit and would like to set it up to the best parameters as possible. ARC is the BOMB...

I would like to see Anthem have ;;; A manual to understand ARC levels, discribe what all the levels mean, the +'s and -'s , not everybody is an electrical engineer.








I downloaded and printed out a manual years ago, which I read while I waited for my D2 to ship. Since it took 4-5 weeks to ship to my dealer I had plenty of time to read it.

It answered many questions, but it also raised some questions. Some of the questions it raised were answered by trial and error. Some were answered by Bob.


There is a pdf copy of the manuals that comes when you download ARC.

That pdf, along with pdf files of most of my components, are on my desktop for easy reference.


The one area that isn't covered thuroughly in the manual is ARC. There is good basic info, but there have been many improvements to ARC that (as jayray said) are covered in the FAQ on the first page of this thread.


Since Nick is not going to release the final D2 firmware that was promised a year ago, perhaps he will have time to write an updated pdf ARC manual that covers alot of the info in the FAQ.










Tom


----------



## rovingtravler

I read the manual that came with my 50v, then when I upgraded to the newer firmware I download the manual, printed and bound with all the others for my system. I do try to find the answers first before asking. Although the manual is good it is not that good as many issues people run into are individual.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20265296
> 
> 
> It was supposed to be out end of last week but I guess they found something to fix. Can't really say at this point.
> 
> John



maby it is the DTS-HD dekoding issue. turns down front 3 db


----------



## tngiloy

Can anyone here who owns the D2 and is using an Oppo BDP-93 tell me if they are working well together.


I'm thinking of going to the 93 so that I can download movies rather than use netflix by mail.

What resolution are you able to stream from Netflix (or any of the other services that the 93 gets)?? What type of audio is streamed.


Does the 93 work with the D2 when sending the video from the Oppo to the display via hdmi #1 out and audio to the D2 via hdmi #2??

Sorry if this is the wrong thread.


Tom


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20269903
> 
> 
> Since Nick is not going to release the final D2 firmware that was promised a year ago, perhaps he will have time to write an updated pdf ARC manual that covers alot of the info in the FAQ.



D2v manual section 3.15 contains everything you need to know about setting up ARC including "you're on your own if choosing to monkey with the targets". Ordinary people followed this to the letter and were blown away by the result. Why complicate it? AVSers may not realize it but they are a niche within a niche. The bass management section which hasn't changed since the AVM 20 days explains how to phase-align sub to mains.


The tech inbox awaits info regarding exactly which HDMI problem is attributable to Anthem. I suppose not many people here realize how much is involved in testing HDMI - well over half a million dollars' worth of test equipment (electrical as well as protocol) and attending HDMI Plugfest are part of it. I don't remember making any promises, just mentioning plans and their uncertainties. In return I get cheap shots.


Bye bye AVS.


----------



## jbua5150




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> D2v manual section 3.15 contains everything you need to know about setting up ARC including "you're on your own if choosing to monkey with the targets". Ordinary people followed this to the letter and were blown away by the result. Why complicate it? AVSers may not realize it but they are a niche within a niche. The bass management section which hasn't changed since the AVM 20 days explains how to phase-align sub to mains.
> 
> 
> The tech inbox awaits info regarding exactly which HDMI problem is attributable to Anthem. I suppose not many people here realize how much is involved in testing HDMI - well over half a million dollars' worth of test equipment (electrical as well as protocol) and attending HDMI Plugfest are part of it. I don't remember making any promises, just mentioning plans and their uncertainties. In return I get cheap shots.
> 
> 
> Bye bye AVS.



I do not own Anthem, yet i follow this thread because i am interested in their equipment. My first impression of Anthem was good because there is someone from Anthem (Nick) responding to threads. All you Anthem users are VERY fortunate to have this resource at your grasp, yet you seem to continue to bash the service you do get. WOW! Try getting that level of service from other manufactures.

As i said i do not own Anthem, but i would like to thank [email protected] for all the info he has provided to ALL of us.

THANKS NICK!


----------



## Ovation




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jbua5150* /forum/post/20271896
> 
> 
> I do not own Anthem, yet i follow this thread because i am interested in their equipment. My first impression of Anthem was good because there is someone from Anthem (Nick) responding to threads. All you Anthem users are VERY fortunate to have this resource at your grasp, yet you seem to continue to bash the service you do get. WOW! Try getting that level of service from other manufactures.
> 
> As i said i do not own Anthem, but i would like to thank [email protected] for all the info he has provided to ALL of us.
> 
> THANKS NICK!



+1


I've seen this happen at other fora and it is always regrettable. It's one thing if a particular tech support person simply has too many responsibilities (or if they are told by their employer to stay off the fora) but it's pretty sad when such a person leaves because a few people can't appreciate the fact they're getting service "above and beyond the call".


Tech reps from companies don't owe fora like this anything, much less any individual posting on one. Yet when one decides to make himself available, others decided they are "owed satisfaction". Well, congratulations. Bravo. Once again, the petulance of a few results in a loss for many.


----------



## MrKegFlex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jbua5150* /forum/post/20271896
> 
> 
> i do not own anthem, yet i follow this thread because i am interested in their equipment. My first impression of anthem was good because there is someone from anthem (nick) responding to threads. All you anthem users are very fortunate to have this resource at your grasp, yet you seem to continue to bash the service you do get. Wow! Try getting that level of service from other manufactures.
> 
> As i said i do not own anthem, but i would like to thank [email protected] for all the info he has provided to all of us.
> 
> Thanks nick!



+1


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20271568
> 
> 
> D2v manual section 3.15 contains everything you need to know about setting up ARC including "you're on your own if choosing to monkey with the targets". Ordinary people followed this to the letter and were blown away by the result. Why complicate it? AVSers may not realize it but they are a niche within a niche. The bass management section which hasn't changed since the AVM 20 days explains how to phase-align sub to mains.
> 
> 
> The tech inbox awaits info regarding exactly which HDMI problem is attributable to Anthem. I suppose not many people here realize how much is involved in testing HDMI - well over half a million dollars' worth of test equipment (electrical as well as protocol) and attending HDMI Plugfest are part of it. I don't remember making any promises, just mentioning plans and their uncertainties. In return I get cheap shots.
> 
> 
> Bye bye AVS.



Greetings,


Nick I appreciate your position. Time is tough to come by and when you use it to spend here trying to facilitate assistance and are engaged in this manner it can be frustrating.


Please remember this proverb: _Sometimes the majority only means that all the fools are on the same side._


Don't let the remarks of a few dissuade you from participating. Your help/input is much appreciated.


Best regards,


----------



## Texas steve

Nick, I echo what Ralph, John and others have said. Your input is GREATLY appreciated and is in part what keeps us in the "Anthem Family" of products. Please dont let the few ruin it for us many.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/20271998
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> 
> Don't let the remarks of a few dissuade you from participating. Your help/input is much appreciated.
> 
> 
> Best regards,


----------



## studlygoorite

Don't go into the light, stay away from the light. We have been lucky here, with the amount of posts in this thread I am surprised at how few whiners there really are. I count one new guy and one not so new that's not bad Nick, a good stiff drink tonight followed up by a total body massage from your woman and you will be good to go again.










People are right, don't let a couple ruin it for the majority.


John


----------



## Heybrook

Please remember this proverb: Sometimes the majority only means that all the fools are on the same side.


I`m not sure how to take this Ralph, because I would think the majority in here, want and appreciate Nick being here...


----------



## buttecreeker

I too have been following this thread, in the event I purchase a D2v. My hope is that the many will out way the few, and Nick will give the many another shot at his well informed wisdom.


My gratitude for all your info, and time, to this thread. Thanks Nick!

Dave


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Heybrook* /forum/post/20272781
> 
> 
> Please remember this proverb: Sometimes the majority only means that all the fools are on the same side.
> 
> 
> I`m not sure how to take this Ralph, because I would think the majority in here, want and appreciate Nick being here...



Greetings,


Point being the majority is not represented by the sentiments of a few..











Regards,


----------



## Texas steve

The heck with Nick, can I have one of the body massages and drink!!!!


















> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20272576
> 
> 
> Don't go into the light, stay away from the light. We have been lucky here, with the amount of posts in this thread I am surprised at how few whiners there really are. I count one new guy and one not so new that's not bad Nick, a good stiff drink tonight followed up by a total body massage from your woman and you will be good to go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People are right, don't let a couple ruin it for the majority.
> 
> 
> John


----------



## my2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20263535
> 
> 
> Nick specifically said that he looked at their 'problems database' and it only showed am HDMI problem with a cable box i blieve but i may be mistaken.
> 
> 
> Can you write down the issues you are having with the current FW in your D2 that need fixing and send them to Anthem? I think its a mistaken belief that posting problems on this forum is the same as sending them to Anthem tech support, which is definately false.



For me, this is not about solving individual problems sent in one at a time. I think this is about the fact that time was taken to develop a beta version of a new firmware (1.47f) to correct HDMI handshake issues (among other things) and bring the D2 up to D2V-like levels, in response to many such inquiries, then promising both privately and in this forum many times that the permanent fix release was right around the corner, then now evidently saying there doesn't appear to be sufficient justification for going forward with the update based on current interest. There must have been sufficient interest at one time, and many probably stopped writing thinking the fix was imminent, and are now expressing themselves.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As time goes on, I'm getting more convinced that the change in the V2.11 firmware really did fix the problem of permanent audio loss (requiring a power cycle to cure).


However, last night I had a series of failures where the D2v ended up getting very confused about HDMI video input. It was reporting things like 1922x106p/59.94 input! Yes 106p. Another time it reported 36p. Both times the screen was actually black. The video output side of things was fine -- no problem displaying the Video Source Adjust menu for example.


The video problem required a power cycle to cure.


I've tried to make it fail again today, and I've been unable to do so.


I've reported the details to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As time goes on, I'm getting more convinced that the change in the V2.11 firmware really did fix the problem of permanent audio loss (requiring a power cycle to cure).
> 
> 
> However, last night I had a series of failures where the D2v ended up getting very confused about HDMI video input. It was reporting things like 1922x106p/59.94 input! Yes 106p. Another time it reported 36p. Both times the screen was actually black. The video output side of things was fine -- no problem displaying the Video Source Adjust menu for example.
> 
> 
> The video problem required a power cycle to cure.
> 
> 
> I've tried to make it fail again today, and I've been unable to do so.
> 
> 
> I've reported the details to Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



I've played several movies since the install of 2.11 and so far no issues as described above. Is there something specific you were doing when it happened?

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *my2cents* /forum/post/20273324
> 
> 
> There must have been sufficient interest at one time, and many probably stopped writing thinking the fix was imminent, and are now expressing themselves.



Agreed. It might sound like whining, but I think everyone here has good intentions and people are trying to help contribute to the betterment of the product in their own ways.


As for your D2/AVM-50 firmware, don't be jealous of the D2v/50v firmware. I've had 0 updates since I bought the unit, and feeling a little deprived myself


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20271568
> 
> 
> D2v manual section 3.15 contains everything you need to know about setting up ARC including "you're on your own if choosing to monkey with the targets". Ordinary people followed this to the letter and were blown away by the result. Why complicate it? AVSers may not realize it but they are a niche within a niche. The bass management section which hasn't changed since the AVM 20 days explains how to phase-align sub to mains.
> 
> 
> The tech inbox awaits info regarding exactly which HDMI problem is attributable to Anthem. I suppose not many people here realize how much is involved in testing HDMI - well over half a million dollars' worth of test equipment (electrical as well as protocol) and attending HDMI Plugfest are part of it. I don't remember making any promises, just mentioning plans and their uncertainties. In return I get cheap shots.
> 
> 
> Bye bye AVS.



Nick, Please accept my appology.


Your presence and input on this thread are far more valuable than mine.

Please reconsider your decision to abandon the many who need your help because of my cheap shot. I can sometimes be a jerk, and this was one of those times.



Tom


----------



## ASW

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*
As time goes on, I'm getting more convinced that the change in the V2.11 firmware really did fix the problem of permanent audio loss (requiring a power cycle to cure).


However, last night I had a series of failures where the D2v ended up getting very confused about HDMI video input. It was reporting things like 1922x106p/59.94 input! Yes 106p. Another time it reported 36p. Both times the screen was actually black. The video output side of things was fine -- no problem displaying the Video Source Adjust menu for example.


The video problem required a power cycle to cure.


I've triedm to make it fail again today, and I've been unable to do so.


I've reported the details to Anthem.

--Bob
Bob,


I do not think that the audio drop-out issue is necessarily HDMI related at all. I have 2 Tivos (an S-3 and a Premier XL), a Sony 400 disc blu-ray player, a 5-disc DVD/SACD player and an Apple TV 1G connected to my D2v via an AVATRIX distribution matrixer. Video is connected via component and audio is connected via optical digital (the AVATRIX doesn't do HDMI and the source components cannot simultaneously output HDMI and component video, so I had to sacrifice HDMI connections in my HD source components for the AVATRIX's video distribution capability). The SACD player also is connected via multi-channel analog. My D2v is connected to my television via HDMI.


I have had an ongoing issue with audio drop-outs requiring a power cycle from all of my source components coming through the AVATRIX. I have a PS3 connected via HDMI that has had a similar issue. I have experienced drop-outs both before and after 2.11. I have not noticed dropouts when using analog source inputs.


Alan


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20273920
> 
> 
> Nick, Please accept my appology.



No worries. And I sure didn't expect the overall reaction. Aw...


---------------------------


In case anyone still missed it this time:


v1.47f was written to address video cards that expect to see a captive monitor, needing special care when not connected to a captive monitor due to their driver development having overlooked HDMI hot-plugging. It's in the HDMI spec as a requirement. Newer cards work better on their own. We did something for the old ones due to the abundance of servers using them. Changing one thing risks breaking another so there better be a real good reason.


Development didn't continue after that simply because up to this minute a reason to hasn't appeared. "My system works but I say Anthem owes software (containing 100% unclear purpose) to benevolent D2 owners awaiting it" doesn't buy anyone anything. Older cable/sat box? Component. We cannot support the unsupportable. Do disc players from people who also make AVRs have these HDMI problems when connected to an AVR or AVP? No. Think about it.


I'm not sure what's meant by bringing D2 software to D2v-like level because D2v problem reports come in more often than D2-like level unless turning back the pages of history and comparing to versions older than v1.33 in which case it's all the same. Think about that one too and always be careful what you wish for!


---------------------------------


For assistance with any problem please send observations-only reports to

http://www.anthemav.com/Contact-Technical-Support 


Andrew and Piero are standing by. To get a response don't forget to type your address correctly. Typos like "hotmial" can be figured out but not much else.


----------



## dmorse4765

I am considering purchasing iRule for system remote. I am curious as to if anyone on this forum has tried it with their D2v. My main concern is the stick on emitters. Also if anyone has tried using the rear ir inputs. Also if they can map all of the Anthem buttons, mode etc. Looks like a nice system but I am concerned about the lack of basic information on the site.


dmorse


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/20275730
> 
> 
> I am considering purchasing iRule for system remote. I am curious as to if anyone on this forum has tried it with their D2v. My main concern is the stick on emitters. Also if anyone has tried using the rear ir inputs. Also if they can map all of the Anthem buttons, mode etc. Looks like a nice system but I am concerned about the lack of basic information on the site.
> 
> 
> dmorse



I'm a Crestron user and stick on IR Emitters have worked since 1996


----------



## obie_fl

Why would you use a stick-on when the Anthem has IR input? I hate stick-ons if that isn't already apparent.







I've decided to only purchase new gear with IR input, Ethernet or RS-232. Thinking about giving the iRule a shot too, dmorse I'll report back if I do. I'm pretty sure there are a couple of Anthem guys here using it.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20275886
> 
> 
> Why would you use a stick-on when the Anthem has IR input? I hate stick-ons if that isn't already apparent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've decided to only purchase new gear with IR input, Ethernet or RS-232. Thinking about giving the iRule a shot too, dmorse I'll report back if I do. I'm pretty sure there are a couple of Anthem guys here using it.



On the D2v I could also use the RS232 from the GC 100 to the Anthems 232, however I don't want to purchase $200.00 equip. and the builder only to find out it is a pia to program. I would like it to at least mirror the activities and devices that my 880 does now. Plus I want to get rid of any emitters where I can use the IR inputs on the rear of my other equipment.


Dmorse


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20275886
> 
> 
> Why would you use a stick-on when the Anthem has IR input? I hate stick-ons if that isn't already apparent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've decided to only purchase new gear with IR input, Ethernet or RS-232. Thinking about giving the iRule a shot too, dmorse I'll report back if I do. I'm pretty sure there are a couple of Anthem guys here using it.



Anthem is one box of *MANY*


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/20276008
> 
> 
> On the D2v I could also use the RS232 from the GC 100 to the Anthems 232, however I don't want to purchase $200.00 equip. and the builder only to find out it is a pia to program. I would like it to at least mirror the activities and devices that my 880 does now. Plus I want to get rid of any emitters where I can use the IR inputs on the rear of my other equipment.
> 
> 
> Dmorse



Seen the WF2SL on a D2v and it works nicely - I don't imagine that the 100 would be different. Programming iRule is easy if you've done this kind of thing before. For anyone not afraid of computers it doesn't take too long to learn it either. iRule support is great too.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/20275730
> 
> 
> I am considering purchasing iRule for system remote. I am curious as to if anyone on this forum has tried it with their D2v. My main concern is the stick on emitters. Also if anyone has tried using the rear ir inputs. Also if they can map all of the Anthem buttons, mode etc. Looks like a nice system but I am concerned about the lack of basic information on the site.
> 
> 
> dmorse



I use the Universal Remote Controls RF to IR repeater with the rear ir inputs. It Works For Me(tm). I like this sort of thing much better than stick on emitters. One nice thing about the rear input block is that it is detachable which makes working with it much easier.


Also, with the stick on emitters I have found that glue dots work very well as a supplemental adhesive to augment or replace the adhesive that comes with the emitters.


The big positive thing about the stick on emitters is that you can get a one plug to 5 emitter device that will repeat the signal to several components from one repeater. The electrical repeater connections seem to be more or less limited to one component per repeater outlet.


----------



## ehlarson




Nick @ Anthem said:


> No worries. And I sure didn't expect the overall reaction. Aw...
> 
> 
> This particular forum is why I bought a D2V. If you survey the other high end processor threads on AVS you will see no direct interaction with manufacturer representatives.
> 
> 
> It is very telling and very appreciated.


----------



## ALCOMData




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/20268614
> 
> 
> We all have questions, some good and some ???? My poll question is:::::
> 
> How many people have actually read the D2 or D2.v manual. Front to back, back to front. When one has a question, do you look in the manual or ask Bob. Do you try to figure it out and learn on your own, or do you ask Bob. All answers are in the manual. Bob does give more GREAT detailed answers to the question.
> 
> Now being TOTALLY HONEST with your selfs, how many people have read the manual.????? With some questions here, I would say that they didn't even know there was a manual. I definently don't know as much as Bob or other great peoples out there in the D2 world. We all have a great unit and would like to set it up to the best parameters as possible. ARC is the BOMB...
> 
> I would like to see Anthem have ;;; A manual to understand ARC levels, discribe what all the levels mean, the +'s and -'s , not everybody is an electrical engineer.



My direct answer to your question, "Have you read the D2V manual cover to cover?" is no, I have not. However, I've downloaded the manual in pdf format and use Ctrl-F to find anything I'm looking for (assuming what I'm looking for IS in the manual). I've done the same for any other manuals that are available online.


----------



## xMEATx

I have an ARC related question, should I change to the cutoff frequency that ARC has picked for speakers to make the corrected green curve closer to the target curve? I have found, if I change some of speaker cutoffs, it results in a smoother green curve. I kinda think that ARC knows better than me. What do you think?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have an ARC related question, should I change to the cutoff frequency that ARC has picked for speakers to make the corrected green curve closer to the target curve? I have found, if I change some of speaker cutoffs, it results in a smoother green curve. I kinda think that ARC knows better than me. What do you think?



Listen to what ARC has done first and I mean for a couple of weeks to get used to the new sound. If after that you think it could be better, then tweak a little at a time. Personally, I leave what ARC came up with and so far I haven't been disappointed









John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/20276402
> 
> 
> I have an ARC related question, should I change to the cutoff frequency that ARC has picked for speakers to make the corrected green curve closer to the target curve? I have found, if I change some of speaker cutoffs, it results in a smoother green curve. I kinda think that ARC knows better than me. What do you think?



An absolutely flat frequency response does not also result in the system sounding better.


How does your manual adjustment sound compared to the ARC implementation ?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/20276402
> 
> 
> I have an ARC related question, should I change to the cutoff frequency that ARC has picked for speakers to make the corrected green curve closer to the target curve? I have found, if I change some of speaker cutoffs, it results in a smoother green curve. I kinda think that ARC knows better than me. What do you think?



Others have said it already, and I am going to repeat it. Just take some time to listen to what ARC has come up with. After listening to it for a while and you decide you want to tweak, then go for it. At least if you do decide you want to tweak, you will have a baseline to compare it to. I always recommend listening to what ARC has come up with first for a while and then tweak if you need to.


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> An absolutely flat frequency response does not also result in the system sounding better.
> 
> 
> How does your manual adjustment sound compared to the ARC implementation ?



I plan to upload the unaltered ARC solution tonight. I have been using my custom solution for while now and have a good list of reference material to listen to. I guess I was looking for your response about a flat frequency response not necessarily sounding the best. Thanks to everyone taking to time to respond.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20276146
> 
> 
> Seen the WF2SL on a D2v and it works nicely - I don't imagine that the 100 would be different. Programming iRule is easy if you've done this kind of thing before. For anyone not afraid of computers it doesn't take too long to learn it either. iRule support is great too.



Thanks Nick,it really looks interesting . I wish there customer support and directions were half as good as Anthems.


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20276228
> 
> 
> I use the Universal Remote Controls RF to IR repeater with the rear ir inputs. It Works For Me(tm). I like this sort of thing much better than stick on emitters. One nice thing about the rear input block is that it is detachable which makes working with it much easier.
> 
> 
> Also, with the stick on emitters I have found that glue dots work very well as a supplemental adhesive to augment or replace the adhesive that comes with the emitters.
> 
> 
> The big positive thing about the stick on emitters is that you can get a one plug to 5 emitter device that will repeat the signal to several components from one repeater. The electrical repeater connections seem to be more or less limited to one component per repeater outlet.



I don't want to interrupt the D2v thread any longer with iRule but have you used the rear IR input on your other devices wired from the itach or GC 100. All they talk about is emmitters and all my devices except 1 have rear input for external ir. If so you can pm me with how it is done. Now back to our regular scheduled forum.


Thanks to all for your input. dmorse


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/20276855
> 
> 
> I don't want to interrupt the D2v thread any longer with iRule but have you used the rear IR input on your other devices wired from the itach or GC 100. All they talk about is emmitters and all my devices except 1 have rear input for external ir. If so you can pm me with how it is done. Now back to our regular scheduled forum.
> 
> 
> Thanks to all for your input. dmorse



Greetings,


I am currently using the iRule via an iPad with my AVM50v and there are zero problems. Like Nick points out if you have any familiarity with programming universal remotes it's very simple. I use the GC-100/emitter set up and it works fine.


I use four dual emitters and two single cable connections to control nine devices. I see no reason why you would have a problem.


Regards,


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/20277116
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I am currently using the iRule via an iPad with my AVM50v and there are zero problems. Like Nick points out if you have any familiarity with programming universal remotes it's very simple. I use the GC-100/emitter set up and it works fine.
> 
> 
> I use four dual emitters and two single cable connections to control nine devices. I see no reason why you would have a problem.
> 
> 
> Regards,



Do you use any cables for ir directly from your GC 100 to the rear ir inputs on any of your devices. This is the part that concerns me.


----------



## obie_fl

I don't know about the GC 100 but I use a Xantech 791-44 amplified connecting box and I use the emitter output to go directly into my D2 and Oppo without any problem.


----------



## Texas steve

I have a Nevo and its fablous but pricey!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/20275730
> 
> 
> I am considering purchasing iRule for system remote. I am curious as to if anyone on this forum has tried it with their D2v. My main concern is the stick on emitters. Also if anyone has tried using the rear ir inputs. Also if they can map all of the Anthem buttons, mode etc. Looks like a nice system but I am concerned about the lack of basic information on the site.
> 
> 
> dmorse


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a Nevo and its fablous but pricey!



Did you get this before or after the Sub 25









John


----------



## Texas steve

I purchased it way before i had the sub25. Its a great touch screen (with some hard buttons) remote that is 100% customizable. If I would buy a new one now she would blame it on you!!

























> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20278028
> 
> 
> Did you get this before or after the Sub 25
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I purchased it way before i had the sub25. Its a great touch screen (with some hard buttons) remote that is 100% customizable. If I would buy a new one now she would blame it on you!!



My wife blames my purchases on me too, go figure









John


----------



## dmusoke

ARC has a bug that i found and has been verified with Andrew at tech support. It occurs when one sets to have identical movie and music configurations by checking the "Same As Movie" option box in the target screen.


As that option implies, the plots for music and movie are supposed to be IDENTICAL but they are not! Andrew couldn't explain it when i sent him my ARC files. He then said he has forwarded them to the software folks at Anthem.


----------



## Dvs006

Hi guys,


I am also a proud owner of Anthem gear like all of you. But, I am having the worst week with my gear... First off I contacted Andrew at tech support with the following issues:


1. My Avm 50v has audio drops upon switching hdmi inputs. I see that some of you were also complaining about that. Andrew recommended that I install firmware v2.11, which I did. It did solve my audio drops on hdmi inputs, but it has created a nasty new audio drop on my satelite source. When I switch over channels all the channels seems to function that have dolby 5.1, but some reason the channels with stereo sound their sound drops. A powercycle solves it. But switching to channels with dolby 5.1 and back to stereo takes me back to square one. I don't know what to do. My satelite only has hdmi output, I can't even hookup a component connection. I have tried a optical connection for the sound instead of hdmi audio with the same results. I desperately need a solution.


2. I also own a blx 200 bluray player, which makes nasty popping noises in it's main menu. When I play a bluray the popping seems to disappear. Andrew also recommended a firmware update, which I did. Again it did solve the popping sound issue. But.... now the player goes into standby at random times during movie playback. Powering it up again straight away is not possible. The standby light flashes twice and nothing happens. Leaving it for a while and then powering up seems to work. (this is my second machine, the first one malfunctioned completely).


Any of you guys have any advice?


Regards

Dewald


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20271568
> 
> *D2v* manual section 3.15 contains everything you need to know about setting up ARC including "you're on your own if choosing to monkey with the targets". Ordinary people followed this to the letter and were blown away by the result. Why complicate it? AVSers may not realize it but they are a niche within a niche. The bass management section which hasn't changed since the AVM 20 days explains how to phase-align sub to mains.



You are correct. the D2v manual has been updated to include the new ARC features, like the Quick Measure. The D2 manual has not.

Since I have the D2 manual pdf on my computer I had not seen the updated ARC info. If you could, would you please update the D2 manual on the archive page.


You are also correct about my being blown away by ARC. Although I do run ARC in the advanced mode (so that I can look at the results before uploading), the only change I make is setting sub to 'flat'. All other values uploaded are what ARC has determined.


The only (unsolicited) suggestions I would have for ARC would be to:

1-have it automatically set up phase and polarity for 2 (or more) subs. I don't know if this is even possible, but there are many pages on this thread dedicated to setting up multiple subs. The consensus is that it is a painful trial and error ordeal without something like the SVS AQ-1. If there were a way for ARC to do this I am sure it would be greatly appreciated. Most of us would have no trouble then phase aligning the sub to the mains.

2-Show the sub frequency chart below 20hz. This may be vanity, but for those of us who have subs rated to go below 20hz, it would be nice to see what they are really doing down there.


Tom


----------



## Ralph Potts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/20277261
> 
> 
> Do you use any cables for ir directly from your GC 100 to the rear ir inputs on any of your devices. This is the part that concerns me.



Greetings,


I am not currently but have done so with my Oppo Blu-ray player and Marantz DV7001 Universal player. It worked flawlessly.


Regards,


----------



## dmorse4765




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ralph Potts* /forum/post/20280748
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I am not currently but have done so with my Oppo Blu-ray player and Marantz DV7001 Universal player. It worked flawlessly.
> 
> 
> Regards,



Thanks Ralph, I think I will order everything next week.


Dmorse


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20280038
> 
> 
> You are correct. the D2v manual has been updated to include the new ARC features, like the Quick Measure. The D2 manual has not.
> 
> Since I have the D2 manual pdf on my computer I had not seen the updated ARC info. If you could, would you please update the D2 manual on the archive page.
> 
> 
> The only (unsolicited) suggestions I would have for ARC would be to:
> 
> 1-have it automatically set up phase and polarity for 2 (or more) subs. I don't know if this is even possible, but there are many pages on this thread dedicated to setting up multiple subs. The consensus is that it is a painful trial and error ordeal without something like the SVS AQ-1. If there were a way for ARC to do this I am sure it would be greatly appreciated. Most of us would have no trouble then phase aligning the sub to the mains.
> 
> 2-Show the sub frequency chart below 20hz. This may be vanity, but for those of us who have subs rated to go below 20hz, it would be nice to see what they are really doing down there.
> 
> 
> Tom



+1 on most the above from another D2 owner.


I can't think of anyway a D2 or D2v could do multiple subwoofer phase adjustments because there is just one channel. Well I can think of one convoluted way...but it would require unplugging each subwoofer in turn and the program would have to hold and some how average the results before unloading. Piece of cake compared to ARC.







It would be nice if they could at least try to get the resulting single subwoofer output in phase though.


I'm going to put in my 99th plug for *additional discrete subwoofer channels* in the next generation pre/pro although it sounds like any "D3" is a long way out there. I'll just keep requesting as eventually I'll wear them down and they will see the light.







Some times I think Anthem's great two channel legacy holds them back from fully understanding the multi-channel HT market, wackos that we are. Whatta ya mean hardly anyone has three subwoofers two powered woofers and seat transducers?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmorse4765* /forum/post/20280875
> 
> 
> Thanks Ralph, I think I will order everything next week.
> 
> 
> Dmorse



I'm taking the plunge too, going to order the GC-100-06 (I wanted the 18inch version with the 2nd RS232 but the price differential was too much to justify). Getting the GCX to Xantech converter too so I can plug it directly into my existing system. The good doctor can have his fancy smancy Crestron system.


----------



## dmusoke

I need y'alls advice on this one....


I was trying to sell my used but well kept and manicured AVM50v on Agon for a firm price($2000 below retail) and thought all was going well until the potential buyer wanted a lower price. Understandable, but i said my original price was firm. He back out saying my price was unreasonable and that 'dealers were dumping' new units on the market (for $4600) since they are only 1.3a compliant and not 3D compatible. Apparently 3D is hot







.


My question is, is this true that Anthem dealers are dumping these units in favor of 3-D compatible units? I asked anthem for prices a few months back and they listed their standard MSRP. What could be going on here?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've not been able to re-create the problem I reported above where the V2.11 firmware reported 1922x106p or x36p HDMI video input on my D2v (with a black screen). The nature of the problem had to do with powering up the Source device.


Once the D2v got into this state, there was no way to cure it by switching inputs or changing input video resolution to force new handshakes. You had to power cycle the D2v to get things correct again.


But as I said, I've tried everything I can think of and I can't get it to fail this way any more, so it must have been some bizarre sort of temporary corruption.

--Bob


----------



## rovingtravler

I have seen former authorized dealers selling their AVM50v for less than the price you quoted and the D2v for $1500 off retail. I have even seen a 50v for 2K off the 6K retail.


Yes they are all 1.3 units not 1.4 3D units.


Price is always subjective. I saw one go for 5k used 2 years old. I have also seen them go for below 3K


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20280955
> 
> 
> I'm going to put in my 99th plug for *additional discrete subwoofer channels* in the next generation pre/pro although it sounds like any "D3" is a long way out there.



Discrete sub channels have been a dream long before ARC (back to AVM 20 days) but like I mentioned some posts ago, the current platform has been refusing to die.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20281562
> 
> 
> He back out saying my price was unreasonable and that 'dealers were dumping' new units on the market (for $4600) since they are only 1.3a compliant and not 3D compatible. Apparently 3D is hot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> My question is, is this true that Anthem dealers are dumping these units in favor of 3-D compatible units? I asked anthem for prices a few months back and they listed their standard MSRP. What could be going on here?



The upcoming 3D upgrade will be applicable to any AVM 50v and D2v.


----------



## Texas steve

Nick, thats for staying with us!!! Greatly appreciated











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20283328
> 
> 
> The upcoming 3D upgrade will be applicable to any AVM 50v and D2v.


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/20276402
> 
> 
> I have an ARC related question, should I change to the cutoff frequency that ARC has picked for speakers to make the corrected green curve closer to the target curve? I have found, if I change some of speaker cutoffs, it results in a smoother green curve. I kinda think that ARC knows better than me. What do you think?



Hi,


I have indeed changed the cutoff frequency with results that ar good to my auditory taste.


ARC will often set the cutoff frequency of my mains at 60Hz. To my ear and also to allow the mains to work a little easier, I prefer this set at 80Hz. I would rather my sub woofer cover the 60-80 Hz range.


I can only guess why ARC sometimes prefers the mains at 60 Hz. Perhaps it fins the mains produce a cleaner sound between 60 and 80.


I always let ARC set my system calibration and only tweak if I feel something can be improved.


I used to say any auto setup program was just a start and then I would certainly have to tweak, but with ARC, 8 out of 10 times the ARC setting is better than I feel I could have done.


Feel free to experiment, you always have ARC to bail you out.


----------



## Mike Lindsey

OK, I finally got around today to running the ARC software and ran into a problem when it was taking the measurements on the 4th position. It didn't matter where I placed the mic for the 4th position, it continued to give the same error. I didn't write it down but it was something to the effect there was too much noise when taking the reading for the subwoofer and was telling me to increase the gain for the sub. Now granted, the subwoofer tone is at least 10 - 15 db quieter than my mains, center and surrounds (and I'm not quite sure why that is), but it doesn't have a problem with the first 3 positions (center, left of center and right of center).


My equipment is as follows:


Mains: Klipsch Khorns

Center: Klipsch KLF-C7

Surrounds: Klipsch Heresy's

Sub" SVS 20-39CSi w/Samson S700 amp


I have the gain turned all the way up on the Samson, and have tried increasing the subwoofer gain on the D2 remote and the Speaker Calibration menu, but it doesn't make a difference to the tone being played thru ARC. Regardless, I still don't get the error from the first 3 positions.


So, 2 questions:


1. Is there a way to increase the gain on the sub from within the D2, where ARC recognizes that gain?

2. Is there a sequence I need to adhere to when going thru the 5 positions? Maybe I have the mic in the wrong place for position 4.


Any help would really be appreciated.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/20285741
> 
> 
> OK, I finally got around today to running the ARC software and ran into a problem when it was taking the measurements on the 4th position. It didn't matter where I placed the mic for the 4th position, it continued to give the same error. I didn't write it down but it was something to the effect there was too much noise when taking the reading for the subwoofer and was telling me to increase the gain for the sub. Now granted, the subwoofer tone is at least 10 - 15 db quieter than my mains, center and surrounds (and I'm not quite sure why that is), but it doesn't have a problem with the first 3 positions (center, left of center and right of center).
> 
> 
> My equipment is as follows:
> 
> 
> Mains: Klipsch Khorns
> 
> Center: Klipsch KLF-C7
> 
> Surrounds: Klipsch Heresy's
> 
> Sub" SVS 20-39CSi w/Samson S700 amp
> 
> 
> I have the gain turned all the way up on the Samson, and have tried increasing the subwoofer gain on the D2 remote and the Speaker Calibration menu, but it doesn't make a difference to the tone being played thru ARC. Regardless, I still don't get the error from the first 3 positions.
> 
> 
> So, 2 questions:
> 
> 
> 1. Is there a way to increase the gain on the sub from within the D2, where ARC recognizes that gain?
> 
> 2. Is there a sequence I need to adhere to when going thru the 5 positions? Maybe I have the mic in the wrong place for position 4.
> 
> 
> Any help would really be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



Is this the procedure you followed and did you follow it EXACTLY as stated ?


This courtesy of Bob Pariseau from page 1


Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB. Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up). Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.


[ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]


Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position. There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.


ARC will use the Noise Level setting you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones, and the adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, can be level adjusted properly to match. If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.


----------



## Mike Lindsey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20285842
> 
> 
> Is this the procedure you followed and did you follow it EXACTLY as stated ?
> 
> 
> This courtesy of Bob Pariseau from page 1
> 
> 
> Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB. Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up). Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.
> 
> 
> [ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]
> 
> 
> Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position. There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.
> 
> 
> ARC will use the Noise Level setting you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones, and the adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, can be level adjusted properly to match. If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.



OK, i just tried this. For my front left I had to adjust the noise level to -5.5db (my mains are 105db effecient at 1w). When I put it on the subwoofer line and turned my Samson amp up to full gain it was only registering 62 db. I then remembered I was sharing the sub between my 2-ch tube rig and the HT, and was using a RCA Y adapter for the 2 inputs. I decided to plug the Anthem Sub out directly into the amp, and when the gain was all the way up it is now registering 72 db (not quite 75db, but much better), so I'll try it again next weekend when I get back into town and report back to you.


Do I want to keep the Noise level at -5.5db?


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## ehlarson

This weekend I installed a new multichannel amp, which seems to have a significantly higher gain than the old.


Given this gain increase is throwing off the balance between my speakers and subwoofer I am wondering what is the best way to compensate for the gain increase within my D2V's configuration. I don't think I should need to re-run ARC for this since it isn't a room reconfiguration.


Any suggestions?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20286078
> 
> 
> This weekend I installed a new multichannel amp, which seems to have a significantly higher gain than the old.
> 
> 
> Given this gain increase is throwing off the balance between my speakers and subwoofer I am wondering what is the best way to compensate for the gain increase within my D2V's configuration. I don't think I should need to re-run ARC for this since it isn't a room reconfiguration.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?



No you don't







. Since you've just changed the gain of the subwoofer system so your default levels are not -75dB. With the higher gain amp, it could be -72dB or greater. So just go and reset the Test Level and Movie/Music subwoofer levels in the Level Calibration menu to 0dB (remember what thry were before!). Measure the Sub output level using your SPL meter and dial down the gain at the back of your subwoofer till your SPL meter reads 75 dB.


Once that's done, re-enter the original values of the test levels and movie/music subwoofer trims to their original values and that should be it. Do a sanity check afterwards and cycle through all speakers to ensure they all read 75dB (+/-2 dB).


Ofcourse, if this coule take just as much time as re-ARCing your setup, so what the heck!







.


----------



## ehlarson

It isn't the subwoofer amp that was replaced. It was the multichannel amp that powers all my OTHER speakers.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20286344
> 
> 
> It isn't the subwoofer amp that was replaced. It was the multichannel amp that powers all my OTHER speakers.



Egg on my face







My apologies! In this case, you need to re-ARC.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20283328
> 
> 
> The upcoming 3D upgrade will be applicable to any AVM 50v and D2v.



Since at this point i have no real need for 3d i would like to know if this will be an extended offer (open to owners in the future if we choose to up grade a couple of years down the road) or will it just be a small window offering.


Regards


----------



## rovingtravler

I am sure Nick can answer this, but I would hope as long as the 50v HDMI 1.3 or 1.4 is the standard they would be willing to take your money and replace it with a nice new board for your unit.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/20288331
> 
> 
> Since at this point i have no real need for 3d i would like to know if this will be an extended offer (open to owners in the future if we choose to up grade a couple of years down the road) or will it just be a small window offering.
> 
> 
> Regards



I'm not Nick, but since it is just an HDMI daughter board that is swapped out, it looks like it would be available for some time.

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20275563
> 
> 
> For assistance with any problem please send observations-only reports to
> 
> http://www.anthemav.com/Contact-Technical-Support
> 
> 
> Andrew and Piero are standing by. To get a response don't forget to type your address correctly. Typos like "hotmial" can be figured out but not much else.



Nick,

Their response is normally very quick but I have sent a few very detailed issues recently (as per your request) and haven't heard back. I'm not sure how to interpret the silence... i.e. don't know if it means they are off busily working on my issues, disagree with my statements to the point of stalemate, or my e-mail simply got lost in the spam bucket.


Maybe you could add some kind of e-mail confirmation to your web submission form?


PS - Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss in private. I did not want to air everything in public but don't know how else to write you.


----------



## Shayne2

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jayray* 
I'm not Nick, but since it is just an HDMI daughter board that is swapped out, it looks like it would be available for some time.

John
Is that fact or a guess?


Regards


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Shayne2*
Is that fact or a guess?


Regards
It's an 'Educated Guess'.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/20286073
> 
> 
> OK, i just tried this. For my front left I had to adjust the noise level to -5.5db (my mains are 105db effecient at 1w). When I put it on the subwoofer line and turned my Samson amp up to full gain it was only registering 62 db. I then remembered I was sharing the sub between my 2-ch tube rig and the HT, and was using a RCA Y adapter for the 2 inputs. I decided to plug the Anthem Sub out directly into the amp, and when the gain was all the way up it is now registering 72 db (not quite 75db, but much better), so I'll try it again next weekend when I get back into town and report back to you.
> 
> 
> Do I want to keep the Noise level at -5.5db?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



Mike

I am not being sarcastic but you have to read the instructions more carefully.

You are using a Radio Shack meter set on C weighted and the meter set at the level so 75db is straight up ? Disregard any of the level settings as they should be at zero except the left front and sub after you adjust them. The levels you adjust and the ones at zero mean nothing at this point except as a level for ARC to use in the analysis. The real levels will be set in the setup after you upload the ARC results.


So, Set *ALL* your levels within the Anthem setup page to 0db

Then follow the instructions from Bob Pariseau below noting the ones I highlighted in bold as extra important.


This courtesy of Bob Pariseau from page 1


Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and *set the volume trims for all speakers including the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer to 0dB.* Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. *Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up)*. *Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.*


[ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]

*Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position.* There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.


ARC will use the Noise Level setting you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones, and the adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, can be level adjusted properly to match. If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.

Now run ARC and if they lok good upload the results to your Anthem.


----------



## Mike Lindsey

See my answers below in *Red*.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20291159
> 
> 
> Mike
> 
> I am not being sarcastic but you have to read the instructions more carefully.
> 
> You are using a Radio Shack meter set on C weighted and the meter set at the level so 75db is straight up ? Disregard any of the level settings as they should be at zero except the left front and sub after you adjust them. The levels you adjust and the ones at zero mean nothing at this point except as a level for ARC to use in the analysis. The real levels will be set in the setup after you upload the ARC results.
> 
> 
> So, Set *ALL* your levels within the Anthem setup page to 0db
> 
> Then follow the instructions from Bob Pariseau below noting the ones I highlighted in bold as extra important.
> 
> 
> This courtesy of Bob Pariseau from page 1
> 
> 
> Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and *set the volume trims for all speakers including the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer to 0dB.*
> 
> *I did this*
> 
> 
> Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. *Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up)*.
> 
> 
> *I did this by setting the Noise Level to -5.5db*
> 
> *Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.*
> 
> *I left the Front Left Speaker setting at 0db*
> 
> 
> [ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]
> 
> *Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position.* There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.
> 
> *I did this as well, and as I mentioned above, with the gain turned all the way up on my amp the meter only registers 72db. If my amp only went to 11 I could have probably gotten there.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ARC will use the Noise Level setting you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones, and the adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, can be level adjusted properly to match. If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.
> 
> Now run ARC and if they lok good upload the results to your Anthem.



*I think I read the instructions pretty carefully and did exactly as Bob mentioned. Unfortunately, I won't get an opportunity to run ARC again until this weekend.*


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/20294435
> 
> 
> See my answers below in *Red*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I think I read the instructions pretty carefully and did exactly as Bob mentioned. Unfortunately, I won't get an opportunity to run ARC again until this weekend.*



Mike

Please don't take my statements as negative or sarcastic. Sometimes what someone writes here is not clearly understood and I was only trying to get clarification to help you out.



Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the volume trims for all speakers including the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer to 0dB.


I did this GOOD


Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up).


I did this by setting the Noise Level to -5.5db GOOD


Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.


I left the Front Left Speaker setting at 0db


[ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]


Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position. There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.


I did this as well, and as I mentioned above, with the gain turned all the way up on my amp the meter only registers 72db. If my amp only went to 11 I could have probably gotten there. Should be OK as ARC will add gain

I think I read the instructions pretty carefully and did exactly as Bob mentioned. Unfortunately, I won't get an opportunity to run ARC again until this weekend.


Looking forward to seeing your charts


----------



## Mike Lindsey

Quote:

Originally Posted by *thestewman* 
Mike

Please don't take my statements as negative or sarcastic. Sometimes what someone writes here is not clearly understood and I was only trying to get clarification to help you out.


Looking forward to seeing your charts
I did not take them as negative nor sarcastic, and appreciate all of the help I get on here. I'm an old school 2-ch vinyl guy, and all of this new digital stuff confuses me most of the time.










I too am looking forward to hearing the difference that ARC can make, and will gladly post my charts once I have them. I've had the D2 for 4 months now and think it's time I finally get around to utilizing ARC.










I'm also having a Tuba HT being built as we speak, and hope that makes a difference on the bottom end. I'll be running ARC this week with the SVS, and then again 2 weeks from now with the THT. The THT is much more efficient than the SVS, and I am pretty certain it can attain the 75db without turning the gain all the way up on the Samson.


Mike


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/20298055
> 
> 
> I did not take them as negative nor sarcastic, and appreciate all of the help I get on here. I'm an old school 2-ch vinyl guy, and all of this new digital stuff confuses me most of the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I too am looking forward to hearing the difference that ARC can make, and will gladly post my charts once I have them. I've had the D2 for 4 months now and think it's time I finally get around to utilizing ARC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also having a Tuba HT being built as we speak, and hope that makes a difference on the bottom end. I'll be running ARC this week with the SVS, and then again 2 weeks from now with the THT. The THT is much more efficient than the SVS, and I am pretty certain it can attain the 75db without turning the gain all the way up on the Samson.
> 
> 
> Mike



I too am old school 2 channel guy though not expressibly vinyl.

Recently I moved forward and am ripping my Redbook CDs with Exact Audio Copy and putting the FLAC or WAV files on a hard drive. In addition I have started downloading 96, 176, and 192/24 files from HD Tracks,Ref recording and Linn. The results are sometimes fantastic and match the quality of my old Audio Research vinyl days when played back thru my Weiss DAC and the D2. Some of the Redbook CDs sound better ripped with EAC and played thru the DAC and D2 than off any high end CD player.

You will be surprised at the chart results and the sound from ARC.


----------



## Arcadeus

Hey all, im loving my new d2v! One issue im having however, is hooking up my media computer through the d2v to my samsung pc58c8000 through hdmi.... are there any known issues with this type of connection? It works in safe mode but when i try normal mode it blanks out right when the windows7 screen is supposed to come up...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Arcadeus* /forum/post/20298577
> 
> 
> Hey all, im loving my new d2v! One issue im having however, is hooking up my media computer through the d2v to my samsung pc58c8000 through hdmi.... are there any known issues with this type of connection? It works in safe mode but when i try normal mode it blanks out right when the windows7 screen is supposed to come up...



Arcadeus:


You need to match the reslution of the Samsung to the one supported by the media PC. In my case, even though my laptop's native resolution is 1440x900, I downrez it to 1280x720p to display correctly on my Pioneer plasma TV. Your media PC could have a resolution option that matches your TV, so you should use that one.


----------



## Kainam

I have a D2 (without ARC), and was wondering if there were any upgrades available for this model.


Is the ARC still available separately? I no longer see that on Anthem's website.


I am particularly interested in the HDMI 1.4a upgrade if possible.


What would the cost be to upgrade?




Thanks


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kainam* /forum/post/20304092
> 
> 
> I have a D2 (without ARC), and was wondering if there were any upgrades available for this model.
> 
> 
> Is the ARC still available separately? I no longer see that on Anthem's website.
> 
> 
> I am particularly interested in the HDMI 1.4a upgrade if possible.
> 
> 
> What would the cost be to upgrade?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



I'm sure that ARC would be available. It's just a software license and microphone. Well worth it. Get it now.


There has been no mention if the HDMI 1.4 upgrade is available for the D2.


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

I have a statement d2 serial #133180 running v1.33. Time Warner Cable installed a Cisco Explorer DVR 8642HDC. Cable Box is connected using HDMI. I get a picture but no sound. Amp says it is receiving analogDSP stereo. How can I fix it?


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a statement d2 serial #133180 running v1.33. Time Warner Cable installed a Cisco Explorer DVR 8642HDC. Cable Box is connected using HDMI. I get a picture but no sound. Amp says it is receiving analogDSP stereo. How can I fix it?



Connect using component and a digital coaxial for sound. TWC boxes and Anthem D2 and D2v hooked up with HDMI do not get along well. I now have a D2V and gave up on the HDMI. My previous D2 was even worse.


Mike


----------



## obie_fl

Make sure you have Audio In: set to Dig HDMI under 6f Source Setup. Also make sure HDMI audio is enabled on the Cable box too.


----------



## obie_fl

I use HDMI on my Explorer 8300 DVR box and it is actually quite stable now days. It is mostly a factor of what firmware/software your provider is running. It is against my religion to convert a digital signal to analog and then back to digital.







It is why I bought into HDMI.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacc* /forum/post/20305852
> 
> 
> I have a statement d2 serial #133180 running v1.33. Time Warner Cable installed a Cisco Explorer DVR 8642HDC. Cable Box is connected using HDMI. I get a picture but no sound. Amp says it is receiving analogDSP stereo. How can I fix it?



Sounds like you do not have the audio input for your source set up correctly


Basically on your remote hold down the Set up button until the menu appears and scroll down until you can select Set up Sources.

On the identify the source name TV1, TV2 etc you are using for the DVR.

Go to the audio input line and select the correct HDMI input you are using 1,2,3 or 4.

Back out of the menu until you can save the settings to Saved user Files

or

Go to page 31 of the D2 software version 1.3X manual.

If you do not have the manual you can download it from The Anthem Archive page on their web site for the D2


----------



## drlopezmdfacc

Thanks!!!


----------



## ehlarson

How are people doing with connecting to Scientific Atlanta cable boxes and Anthem D2Vs with the latest firmware? Is it still a matter of the boxes going into endless rebooting when the Anthem is in standby? Or has this been fixed?


----------



## AVfile

Mine keeps cycling the HDD in the PVR.

Anthem says they understand the issue and are working on a fix.


edit: Mine is a 50V running 2.10 software. I have not been offered 2.11 so I would assume the problem still exists in 2.11.


----------



## cargen

I realize this is a D2 thread, not a Tivo Series 3 thread, but for quite a while I wasn't sure which device was causing my reception problem. Since I found nothing via Google searches about this, I'm posting the following both here and on Tivo threads to hopefully help someone else down the road with a similar experience. I've subscribed to this thread since Page 1 and the D1 equivalent threads prior to D2.


I've had a D1 since 2004, upgraded to D2 in 2006 and a Tivo Series 3 ever since it first came out, which I've always had cabled to the D2 via component cables instead of via HDMI in order to avoid the "handshake dance". Picture quality was always superb until a few months ago when I noticed some faint horizontal waves in some recordings and live TV.


Thinking it was a Comcast issue maybe with line deterioration at entry into my home due to winter weather, I had them roll a truck. The Comcast tech proved that the problem was not their's via cable switching that reception was perfect via HDMI, instead of via component cables. So I left the Tivo Series 3 cabled to my D2 via HDMI, albeit at the trade-off of multiple irritating handshakes nearly every channel change. A couple weeks into this, my Tivo 3 failed completely. I ordered and installed a new 2 TB hard drive, but the Tivo would not boot. So I ordered and installed a $99 replacement Tivo 3 power supply from Weaknees and voila, it solved ALL my previous problems with reception via component cables. Picture is now perfect again via component cables = to picture quality via HDMI cabling.

Another benefit is the Tivo Series 3 is much more responsive = faster between Tivo menu changes + it departs Tivo recording confirmation windows much, much faster.


I now am sure that it was deterioration of the Tivo Series 3 power supply module that caused the picture deterioration via only component cables. A simple to install $99 swap-out procedure.


Chris


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20308334
> 
> 
> Mine keeps cycling the HDD in the PVR.
> 
> Anthem says they understand the issue and are working on a fix.
> 
> 
> edit: Mine is a 50V running 2.10 software. I have not been offered 2.11 so I would assume the problem still exists in 2.11.



Thanks for the info. I guess I'm going to stick with component for a while. The good thing is that supposedly my cableco is switching to Samsung boxes so maybe I'll be able to ditch my component cables then.


Hate Hate HATE RCA.


----------



## Arcadeus

this may be a silly question but here it goes... for some reason my default setting for when the anthem has no video signal has changed to a blue screen from the original black or clear screen it used to be... i.e. when it powers up and the logo comes up it is against a blue background... any idea how i changed that and how to change it back?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Arcadeus* /forum/post/20311328
> 
> 
> this may be a silly question but here it goes... for some reason my default setting for when the anthem has no video signal has changed to a blue screen from the original black or clear screen it used to be... i.e. when it powers up and the logo comes up it is against a blue background... any idea how i changed that and how to change it back?



I don't know if affects the power up screen but try in the setup under displays / timeout - main OS color.


----------



## studlygoorite

I purchased a Velodyne SMS-1 Sub EQ and it only has a composite out for video. I have plugged this into several composite inputs on my D2v and cannot get a picture, I have gone into source set up and changed the "composite in" to the composite input that I am connected to and am still without video. I brought a Plasma down and hooked the composite video directly into it from the EQ and I get video. Any idea, am I missing something simple?


John


----------



## obie_fl

Anthem does not digitize composite only passes it through. You will need a composite to S-Vid or component convertor as it will digitize those.


----------



## Mike Lindsey

OK, here are the ARC results. I'm not sure why the correction didn't take effect on the Left Front channel. I see some peaks on the Mains between 5 and 10k, and am not sure how to smooth those over either. Thoughts?


Mike

 

Arc.doc 238k . file


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/20314488
> 
> 
> OK, here are the ARC results. I'm not sure why the correction didn't take effect on the Left Front channel. I see some peaks on the Mains between 5 and 10k, and am not sure how to smooth those over either. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> Mike



Your front left looks like it's broke. Check the driver or of there is a jumper for biwiring make sure it is tight.


----------



## obie_fl

Mike looks like your left speaker's woofer isn't working. This is what is know as Richard's Syndrome around here.


----------



## Mike Lindsey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/20314619
> 
> 
> Your front left looks like it's broke. Check the driver or of there is a jumper for biwiring make sure it is tight.



They are bi-wired but that doesn't appear to be the issue. According to the graph, it looks like it could be a problem with the woofer. My speakers weigh 275 lbs each and they are not easy to maneuver. I will try and get into the cabinet and take a look at it and report back.


Mike


----------



## Mike Lindsey

I disconnected the woofer connection on the network and put a voltmeter (set to Ohm) on the disconnected left and right wire, and it registered 3.8 ohms, so the woofer appears to be good to me. When I follow the woofer connection on the back side the positive goes to a big red copper inductor, and the negative is bridged to the negative on the low input just like it is on the right speaker, so I'm not sure what the problem is but there is definitely nothing coming out of the woofer in that speaker.


Any ideas?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/20315183
> 
> 
> I disconnected the woofer connection on the network



What is "the network?"



> Quote:
> and put a voltmeter (set to Ohm) on the disconnected left and right wire, and it registered 3.8 ohms, so the woofer appears to be good to me. When I follow the woofer connection on the back side the positive goes to a big red copper inductor, and the negative is bridged to the negative on the low input just like it is on the right speaker,



It seems to me that you are still measuring the parallel input resistance of both the high and low terminals of your speaker. It would be best to remove one of those strapping bars so you can be sure to measure only the woofer's posts.


Compare all readings with the other speaker to see if that shows anything.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/20315183
> 
> 
> I disconnected the woofer connection on the network and put a voltmeter (set to Ohm) on the disconnected left and right wire, and it registered 3.8 ohms, so the woofer appears to be good to me. When I follow the woofer connection on the back side the positive goes to a big red copper inductor, and the negative is bridged to the negative on the low input just like it is on the right speaker, so I'm not sure what the problem is but there is definitely nothing coming out of the woofer in that speaker.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



Are you sure it's your woofer that is the problem.

Don't I recall you have DIY Sub so do you have some kind of EQ or crossover or jut the D2 and Arc ?

You could send an audio signal to the RF speaker via the D2 check the driver for output and then switch with the LF to compare.


----------



## Mike Lindsey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/20315826
> 
> 
> What is "the network?"



The Crossover network.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/20315826
> 
> 
> It seems to me that you are still measuring the parallel input resistance of both the high and low terminals of your speaker. It would be best to remove one of those strapping bars so you can be sure to measure only the woofer's posts.
> 
> 
> Compare all readings with the other speaker to see if that shows anything.



No, I was only measuring the wire coming directly from the woofer and was getting 3.8 ohms.


It appears I wasn't looking closely enough at the fuse on the crossover. It only protects the woofer and looks like it's the culprit. I'll pick up a new one today and then remeasure.


Mike


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20313886
> 
> 
> I purchased a Velodyne SMS-1 Sub EQ and it only has a composite out for video. I have plugged this into several composite inputs on my D2v and cannot get a picture, I have gone into source set up and changed the "composite in" to the composite input that I am connected to and am still without video. I brought a Plasma down and hooked the composite video directly into it from the EQ and I get video. Any idea, am I missing something simple?
> 
> 
> John



I use this EQ unit to help me set the phase between the Sub and the Fronts. Beats using your ears or the SPL meter.


There is a choice of S-video out apart from Composite from the EQ unit. It should give you a better signal. Well, mine did. Composite gives you the poorest video quality. Then set the D2v Source Setup as follows -


c. Scaler Input : S-video

e. S-video In : (your choice of S-video input)

g. Audo In : AnalgDir

i. Anlg Aud : (your choice of analog input)

m. ARC Room EQ : Off

n. Dolby Volume : Off


Remember NOT to select Analog DSP for g. because you do not want the D2v to process anything other than the output volume.


The setting on the other menu items are irrelevant.


Have fun.

Ben


----------



## Janski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20313886
> 
> 
> I purchased a Velodyne SMS-1 Sub EQ and it only has a composite out for video. I have plugged this into several composite inputs on my D2v and cannot get a picture, I have gone into source set up and changed the "composite in" to the composite input that I am connected to and am still without video. I brought a Plasma down and hooked the composite video directly into it from the EQ and I get video. Any idea, am I missing something simple?
> 
> 
> John



I think between the 2 replies you received lies the answer. Seems you need to use your scaler in order to output an analog source out the Anthem's HDMI output.


So try changing your scaler input from 'none' to DVD Composite and it should work if the theory is correct. It could also work right now the way you have it if you had connected a composite video cable from the Anthem to your PJ, but then you'd have to change the PJ input every time you want to see the EQ. You could also use S-Video, but unless there is a limitation on what the D2v digitizes, I don't see it as an absolute requirement. It is the same signal as an RCA, but it is spit into separate conductors which isolates better. I am not sure if that would fully apply an an adapter cable.


Advantage Anthem for being flexible here.


Thanks.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/20316367
> 
> 
> I think between the 2 replies you received lies the answer. Seems you need to use your scaler in order to output an analog source out the Anthem's HDMI output.
> 
> 
> So try changing your scaler input from 'none' to DVD Composite and it should work if the theory is correct. It could also work right now the way you have it if you had connected a composite video cable from the Anthem to your PJ, but then you'd have to change the PJ input every time you want to see the EQ. You could also use S-Video, but unless there is a limitation on what the D2v digitizes, I don't see it as an absolute requirement. *It is the same signal as an RCA, but it is spit into separate conductors which isolates better*. I am not sure if that would fully apply an an adapter cable.
> 
> 
> Advantage Anthem for being flexible here.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Bolding mine. Svideo splits out the luma (Y) and chroma (C) signals while Composite has it combined. (To be more precise Composite actually combines Y/C). You need a comb filter to separate the Y/C in composite. The Anthem does not have a comb filter thus it can not digitize composite for use with the scaler. There are cheap convertors available. Svideo and Component (3 RCAs) can both be input to the scaler (Digitized).


I also seem to recall that there was something about the SVideo on the SMS-1 that the Anthem had trouble with (weak signal?).


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski* /forum/post/20316367
> 
> 
> ......... So try changing your scaler input from 'none' to DVD Composite and it should work .........



You cannot upscale Composite video signals. You need to convert it to S-Video in order to upscale it.


Unfortunately, the D2v doesn't have a built-in converter.


So like I said earlier, use the S-Video output from the SMS-1 if you wish to use the D2v for display of the realtime frequency graph.


Ben


----------



## Mike Lindsey

OK, round 2 after getting the woofer straightened out. I have the filter set at 5K and have that bump between 5K and 10K. Should I play with the filter to see if I can even that out a bit?


Mike

 

Arc2.doc 243.5k . file


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/20317555
> 
> 
> OK, round 2 after getting the woofer straightened out. I have the filter set at 5K and have that bump between 5K and 10K. Should I play with the filter to see if I can even that out a bit?
> 
> 
> Mike



Your charts look pretty good. Post your Target's View. Now, it's time to sit back and listen for a while and let your ears tell you if you should agree with your charts.


Edit: If anything, you could play with the positioning of your sub some. If you could reduce the null from 40 Hz to 60 Hz so that it's closer to about 75db, that would help out ARC some.


----------



## Mike Lindsey

Here you go...


And as for the sound, I like it a lot. I just finished playing Toto's Falling In Between Live Blu-Ray, and it sounds fantastic! What a great recording!


Mike

 

Arc3.doc 151.5k . file


----------



## obie_fl

I think your are looking pretty darn good Mike. I personally don't mess with anything above 5Khz as it is too directional and you can easily do more harm than good. Like the Ninja says set back and listen for a while.


ETA: After seeing your targets you might want to try raising your fronts a bit to 70 or 80 just to see what it does. It might get rid of that little hump on the right speaker at 40hz.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/20317821
> 
> 
> Here you go...
> 
> 
> And as for the sound, I like it a lot. I just finished playing Toto's Falling In Between Live Blu-Ray, and it sounds fantastic! What a great recording!
> 
> 
> Mike



If you are liking the sound a lot, then I would say that you are done. So, sit back and continue enjoying what you are hearing.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/20316150
> 
> 
> I use this EQ unit to help me set the phase between the Sub and the Fronts. Beats using your ears or the SPL meter.
> 
> 
> There is a choice of S-video out apart from Composite from the EQ unit. It should give you a better signal. Well, mine did. Composite gives you the poorest video quality. Then set the D2v Source Setup as follows -
> 
> 
> c. Scaler Input : S-video
> 
> e. S-video In : (your choice of S-video input)
> 
> g. Audo In : AnalgDir
> 
> i. Anlg Aud : (your choice of analog input)
> 
> m. ARC Room EQ : Off
> 
> n. Dolby Volume : Off
> 
> 
> Remember NOT to select Analog DSP for g. because you do not want the D2v to process anything other than the output volume.
> 
> 
> The setting on the other menu items are irrelevant.
> 
> 
> Have fun.
> 
> Ben



Didn't even think of the S-Video, I hooked one up and am good to go. Thanks, time to play.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20316684
> 
> 
> . . .
> 
> I also seem to recall that there was something about the SVideo on the SMS-1 that the Anthem had trouble with (weak signal?).



That problem was only when feeding the Velodyne's S-video into the original D2. The Velodyne units only output every other field of the 480i for that user interface video feed, and the D2's video digitizer couldn't handle that and feed useful results to the scaler. So you had to resort to S-video "pass through" -- i.e., to the unprocessed, S-video output of the original D2.


The D2v's S-video input handles this poor quality 480i video input just fine. So you can get the video output on HDMI just as with other video sources.

--Bob


----------



## dvcdude

I have a 50v and planned to connect IR through the block on the rear. When I removed the block & looked at the manual, it has 4 screws for wires. The manual shows that the first 3 are for IR and the 4th is 12v trigger. I believe that I should have 2 wires going into the block in 2 slots, but the manual would suggest something different. How do I set up? Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a 50v and planned to connect IR through the block on the rear. When I removed the block & looked at the manual, it has 4 screws for wires. The manual shows that the first 3 are for IR and the 4th is 12v trigger. I believe that I should have 2 wires going into the block in 2 slots, but the manual would suggest something different. How do I set up? Thanks



The other pin is power in case your external IR receiver needs that.


There are actually 5 pins. Connect a signal pin and the ground pin. If your external IR receiver needs -12V power you can also hook up that pin.


See Section 2.5 of the Manual and note the 2nd picture with three wires going to the connector block.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/20254963
> 
> 
> Hi Nick,
> 
> 
> I wasn't going to add to the chorus of whines, but since you used the magic word, I thought it appropriate to mention that the 'rubberized' feel of the Anthem remote appears to be a coating of Nextel paint which is said to be toxic.
> 
> 
> It was used on a range of speakers one of which I owned some years back, but when it had a habit of turning sticky (the paintwork, not the speakers), it's use was discontinued by the manufacturers. I am now experiencing the same stickiness on your remote too and had to clean it off with alchohol (like I did with my speakers, as well as a Microsoft mouse).
> 
> 
> Perhaps Anthem should take note and discontinue this 'rubberized' thing.
> 
> 
> Ben



Note was taken and I just received the material safety data sheet for the coating on our remotes. It says that the coating does not contain toxic substances. The named supplier is not Nextel.


If concern remains please forward it to [email protected] .


----------



## dmusoke

Posted this in the 95 forum already but figured i would ask here as well....


Anyone got Michael Buble's BD "Caught in the Act". Superb sound indeed ... but i noticed his voice and orchestra are panned center to center-left. Anyone noticed this or is something off in my setup? Thanks!



PS...

Just finished calibrating my audio setup (re-positioned ribbon speaker system, placed dual subs on ASC's subtraps, room EQ using Anthem's ARC, etc) and it sounds amazing. Now i know what they mean by "counting cycles" when the double bass is thumping away....and i haven't yet phase matched my subs to the mains!


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20319626
> 
> 
> Note was taken and I just received the material safety data sheet for the coating on our remotes. It says that the coating does not contain toxic substances. The named supplier is not Nextel.
> 
> 
> If concern remains please forward it to [email protected]mav.com .



Thanks for responding, Nick.


Glad to be told it's not Nextel, but it sure looks, feels and seems to deteriorate like the stuff I had on my speakers a few years ago. Could be some similar compound. Never can tell with "Made in C...." these days.


After I posted that comment, I managed to sell my D2 and was happy to ship it off with the two offending remotes. Otherwise, I could have sent you the remaining sticky one (I cleaned only one of them) for you to examine.


So far, the two D2v remotes are fine, but if they ever becomes sticky, you'll be sure to hear from me again. Only 9 months old and too early to show any sign of the problem.


Ben


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys just a quick question. I performed another ARC cal last night as I've since made some minor adjustments to speaker position etc. The first time I ran ARC it set everything including subs to 75hz which I found strange, so ran it again and this time got what I have previously being mains 90hz, centre 75hz, rears 90hz and sub 120hz going by the results in the target window. Something must have thrown off my first cal and after having a listen after it set everything to 75hz the bass was almost not there.


So anyway my question is after the D2v turns off after the results are saved to it, the next time you turn it on does the input stay on the FM input? The reason I ask is that's normally what it does after running ARC but the first time I did the cal it went straight to my main input for watching Blu-Rays when I turned it on after the results were saved. Is it normal for the input to stay on the FM input after it turns off or should it default to one of the users inputs?


I thought something was wrong when it went to my input after running and saving the results the first time and I turned the unit on and it went straight to input 1 being for Blu-Ray playback. Hope this makes sense.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guys just a quick question. I performed another ARC cal last night as I've since made some minor adjustments to speaker position etc. The first time I ran ARC it set everything including subs to 75hz which I found strange, so ran it again and this time got what I have previously being mains 90hz, centre 75hz, rears 90hz and sub 120hz going by the results in the target window. Something must have thrown off my first cal and after having a listen after it set everything to 75hz the bass was almost not there.
> 
> 
> So anyway my question is after the D2v turns off after the results are saved to it, the next time you turn it on does the input stay on the FM input? The reason I ask is that's normally what it does after running ARC but the first time I did the cal it went straight to my main input for watching Blu-Rays when I turned it on after the results were saved. Is it normal for the input to stay on the FM input after it turns off or should it default to one of the users inputs?
> 
> 
> I thought something was wrong when it went to my input after running and saving the results the first time and I turned the unit on and it went straight to input 1 being for Blu-Ray playback. Hope this makes sense.



I've had it it do both of those things but it had no effect on ARC settings.

John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I've had it it do both of those things but it had no effect on ARC settings



Ok thanks for that. Now that is ruled out I believe the RS-232 cable may have come out a bit as the one I purchased is too wide (outer casing is thick plastic) so I had to remove the 2 screw points at the back of the D2v for it to fit. But it wont lock in and sometimes just slips out a notch and may cause the problem with the results. I believe now that was the issue.


Thanks Jayray for confirming that.


----------



## studlygoorite

Quote:

Originally Posted by *benleeys* 
I use this EQ unit to help me set the phase between the Sub and the Fronts. Beats using your ears or the SPL meter.


There is a choice of S-video out apart from Composite from the EQ unit. It should give you a better signal. Well, mine did. Composite gives you the poorest video quality. Then set the D2v Source Setup as follows -


c. Scaler Input : S-video

e. S-video In : (your choice of S-video input)

g. Audo In : AnalgDir

i. Anlg Aud : (your choice of analog input)

m. ARC Room EQ : Off

n. Dolby Volume : Off

*Remember NOT to select Analog DSP for g. because you do not want the D2v to process anything other than the output volume.*


The setting on the other menu items are irrelevant.


Have fun.

Ben
Hi Ben,


I had it hooked up with the D2v set to Analog Direct but was unable to adjust the volume of the sub with the SMS remote and the sub was silent during test sweeps. I switched the D2v to Analog DSP and everything works correctly with the SMS, not sure why.


John


----------



## benleeys

Quote:

Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* 
Hi Ben,


I had it hooked up with the D2v set to Analog Direct but was unable to adjust the volume of the sub with the SMS remote and the sub was silent during test sweeps. I switched the D2v to Analog DSP and everything works correctly with the SMS, not sure why.


John
John,


Offhand, I can't imagine why AnalogDir doesn't respond to an analog signal from the SMS-1 whereas AnalogDSP does when using an analog input socket ... unless you set the volume on the Anthem too low? The volume on the SMS-1 should also be sufficiently high for the Anthem to detect it, about 20-25 range should do. Both are complementary to each other.


Suggest you test try analog input from, say, a CD player and see if there's sound. If not, then you have to consider a firmware problem. Maybe someone out there can offer a possible solution.


Ben


----------



## Arcadeus

Hey folks... in post 33206... i mentioned that my background turned blue the other day from the original black that it was... i checked under display in the settings menu and main os was set to blue but there was no black option (which i know for a fact that it was)... i thought that strange... but additional video issues have started cropping up...


is there a known issue where the background screen will turn another color from the one set in the main os under display (flickers magenta, stays magenta and then turns back to blue)


This never happens when i have a video source ie my oppo is on (except in the case of issue two...)


issue two: i cant get my computer to hook up to my screen reliably... i think its a handshake issue because for a while i could change to a different input and then switch back and it would come up... yesterday this stopped working as well...


anyway your input would be greatly appreciated...


Mark


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/20324732
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> Offhand, I can't imagine why AnalogDir doesn't respond to an analog signal from the SMS-1 whereas AnalogDSP does when using an analog input socket ... unless you set the volume on the Anthem too low? The volume on the SMS-1 should also be sufficiently high for the Anthem to detect it, about 20-25 range should do. Both are complementary to each other.
> 
> 
> Suggest you test try analog input from, say, a CD player and see if there's sound. If not, then you have to consider a firmware problem. Maybe someone out there can offer a possible solution.
> 
> 
> Ben



I'm not familiar with the SMS-1 unit, and not sure I understand what your tring to do with it, _*but if you are trying to get a signal to your sub from a 2 chanel/stereo source, like CD, in AnalogDir it won't work.*_

When I hooked up my CD player to the 2Ch-Balanced inputs on my D2 I wanted to do an a/b comparison between AnalogDir (without ARC) and AnalogDSP (using ARC). In AnalogDir the signal is sent to the LR fronts only. There is zero signal sent to the sub. In AnalogDSP, with ARC enabled in that source, some of the bass was steered to the sub.

The only way I can think of to send an AnalogDir signal to your sub would be to use the subwoofer input on the '6ch in' analog input on your Anthem- the input you would use to hook up a SACD or DVD-A player or bluray player via analog. The signal would be then be sent directly to your sub in the AnalogDir mode.


Tom


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *benleeys* 
John,


Offhand, I can't imagine why AnalogDir doesn't respond to an analog signal from the SMS-1 whereas AnalogDSP does when using an analog input socket ... unless you set the volume on the Anthem too low? The volume on the SMS-1 should also be sufficiently high for the Anthem to detect it, about 20-25 range should do. Both are complementary to each other.


Suggest you test try analog input from, say, a CD player and see if there's sound. If not, then you have to consider a firmware problem. Maybe someone out there can offer a possible solution.


Ben
Getting the sub to work in AnalogDir involves bass management, which is involves the Motorola DSPs in the Anthem, so you'll need AnalogDSP aa a minimum. AnalogDir is simply a volume control pass-through with no involvement by the DPSs, which you'll need to strip the subwoofer signal from the stereo input sources.


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tngiloy* 
I'm not familiar with the SMS-1 unit, and not sure I understand what your tring to do with it, _*but if you are trying to get a signal to your sub from a 2 chanel/stereo source, like CD, in AnalogDir it won't work.*_

When I hooked up my CD player to the 2Ch-Balanced inputs on my D2 I wanted to do an a/b comparison between AnalogDir (without ARC) and AnalogDSP (using ARC). In AnalogDir the signal is sent to the LR fronts only. There is zero signal sent to the sub. In AnalogDSP, with ARC enabled in that source, some of the bass was steered to the sub.

The only way I can think of to send an AnalogDir signal to your sub would be to use the subwoofer input on the '6ch in' analog input on your Anthem- the input you would use to hook up a SACD or DVD-A player or bluray player via analog. The signal would be then be sent directly to your sub in the AnalogDir mode.

Tom
I believe Tom is correct. You have to connect your test signal source (CD player ) to the six channel analog inputs to get an analog signal to your sub.


----------



## dmusoke




dmusoke said:


> Posted this in the 95 forum already but figured i would ask here as well....
> 
> 
> Anyone got Michael Buble's BD "Caught in the Act". Superb sound indeed ... but i noticed his voice and orchestra are panned center to center-left. Anyone noticed this or is something off in my setup? Thanks!
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> Oh well ...just happened to walk by my speakers only to notice that my right speaker was disconnected, hence the left to center-left sensation i was hearing in the concert


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20325830
> 
> 
> I'm not familiar with the SMS-1 unit, and not sure I understand what your tring to do with it, _*but if you are trying to get a signal to your sub from a 2 chanel/stereo source, like CD, in AnalogDir it won't work.*_
> 
> When I hooked up my CD player to the 2Ch-Balanced inputs on my D2 I wanted to do an a/b comparison between AnalogDir (without ARC) and AnalogDSP (using ARC). In AnalogDir the signal is sent to the LR fronts only. There is zero signal sent to the sub. In AnalogDSP, with ARC enabled in that source, some of the bass was steered to the sub.
> 
> The only way I can think of to send an AnalogDir signal to your sub would be to use the subwoofer input on the '6ch in' analog input on your Anthem- the input you would use to hook up a SACD or DVD-A player or bluray player via analog. The signal would be then be sent directly to your sub in the AnalogDir mode.
> 
> 
> Tom



I have removed the left and right from the Analog In (CD) I was using to the 6ch and pulled the sub line out from the main sub out and put it in the 6ch. I left the S Vid in CD and set the source setting accordingly but do not get a picture. Am I missing something else? Is it bad to have the audio on Analog DSP and then tweak the sub with the Velodyne SMS?


John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20328995
> 
> 
> I have removed the left and right from the Analog In (CD) I was using to the 6ch and pulled the sub line out from the main sub out and put it in the 6ch. I left the S Vid in CD and set the source setting accordingly but do not get a picture. Am I missing something else? Is it bad to have the audio on Analog DSP and then tweak the sub with the Velodyne SMS?
> 
> 
> John



I believe you should be selecting Source Set up in the menu. Then 6 channel and setting S-Video and the correct input type


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20328995
> 
> 
> I have removed the left and right from the Analog In (CD) I was using to the 6ch and pulled the sub line out from the main sub out and put it in the 6ch. I left the S Vid in CD and set the source setting accordingly but do not get a picture. Am I missing something else? Is it bad to have the audio on Analog DSP and then tweak the sub with the Velodyne SMS?
> 
> 
> John



If all you are trying to do is get unaltered/unprocessed music playing thru your speakers and sub so that you can tweak, you don't necessarily have to use an analog source.

If you have a source component that plays sacd or dvd-a (like an Oppo/denon/sony dvd/bluray player) and a sacd or dvd-a disc, then you can send the 5.1 music thru your system and tweak away. But it must have the .1 channel. Even if the player is hooked up by hdmi (make sure to turn 'room correction' to off in the source setup, and set the mode to 'none') you will get unprocessed music to all speakers, including the sub.


But I'm still not sure what exactly you're trying to do with the Velodyne SMS-1.

Do you have more than 1 sub that you need it to adjust phase and polarity that ARC is unable to do?

Are you not able to get your sub positioned in your room to get a good ARC reading for your sub?

Or are you using the Velodyne SMS-1 instead of ARC? If so *WHY??*

Tom


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20325830
> 
> 
> ........ if you are trying to get a signal to your sub from a 2 chanel/stereo source, like CD, in AnalogDir it won't work......Tom



Yes, you are absolutely right, Tom. Thanks for jogging my memory.


I remember now that I was using the Front outputs, not the Sub output, to send the bass/LFE signal to the SMS-1. From the SMS-1, the signal then went to both the Front speakers and Sub to check phasing. If I had been using the Sub output from the Anthem, I would have got only silence.


For studlygoorite -


If that's what you are trying to do, i.e. checking phasing or taking measurements of the Sub, the settings I posted earlier still hold. But you must use the Anthem *Fronts for output* to the SMS-1.


Ben


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20329498
> 
> 
> If all you are trying to do is get unaltered/unprocessed music playing thru your speakers and sub so that you can tweak, you don't necessarily have to use an analog source.
> 
> If you have a source component that plays sacd or dvd-a (like an Oppo/denon/sony dvd/bluray player) and a sacd or dvd-a disc, then you can send the 5.1 music thru your system and tweak away. But it must have the .1 channel. Even if the player is hooked up by hdmi (make sure to turn 'room correction' to off in the source setup, and set the mode to 'none') you will get unprocessed music to all speakers, including the sub.
> 
> 
> But I'm still not sure what exactly you're trying to do with the Velodyne SMS-1.
> 
> Do you have more than 1 sub that you need it to adjust phase and polarity that ARC is unable to do?
> 
> Are you not able to get your sub positioned in your room to get a good ARC reading for your sub?
> 
> Or are you using the Velodyne SMS-1 instead of ARC? If so *WHY??*
> 
> Tom



What I am trying to do is get this Velodyne SMS EQ integrated into my system, reason being I would like to try a bass curve instead of a flat response. I have to use S Vid for video and I would get no sound from the sub going Analog Direct, it has been suggested that I do not use DSP but up to this point that is the only way I can get sound from the sub. Will experiment more when I get home from work.


John


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20330129
> 
> 
> What I am trying to do is get this Velodyne SMS EQ integrated into my system, reason being I would like to try a bass curve instead of a flat response. I have to use S Vid for video and I would get no sound from the sub going Analog Direct, it has been suggested that I do not use DSP but up to this point that is the only way I can get sound from the sub. Will experiment more when I get home from work.
> 
> 
> John



John,


I finally found this schematic in my manual. Maybe it will be of some help to you. Remember, this setup is only good for measurement and phase checking process. In actual use for music or movies, the connection is more straightforward.


Ben


----------



## nrwatson

I have just got my D2v

on a number of occasions the dvd tape has started but I get an awful screech from my system if I turn the D2V off and then on again the screeching stops

any ideas

Not happy as I a sure not good for the speakers


----------



## Arcadeus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Arcadeus* /forum/post/20325736
> 
> 
> Hey folks... in post 33206... i mentioned that my background turned blue the other day from the original black that it was... i checked under display in the settings menu and main os was set to blue but there was no black option (which i know for a fact that it was)... i thought that strange... but additional video issues have started cropping up...
> 
> 
> is there a known issue where the background screen will turn another color from the one set in the main os under display (flickers magenta, stays magenta and then turns back to blue)
> 
> 
> This never happens when i have a video source ie my oppo is on (except in the case of issue two...)
> 
> 
> issue two: i cant get my computer to hook up to my screen reliably... i think its a handshake issue because for a while i could change to a different input and then switch back and it would come up... yesterday this stopped working as well...
> 
> 
> anyway your input would be greatly appreciated...
> 
> 
> Mark



Hey folks, anyone have any idea whats happening here? I could really use some help...


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Arcadeus* /forum/post/20333247
> 
> 
> Hey folks, anyone have any idea whats happening here? I could really use some help...



Issue 1

Reboot all your devices including turning the D2v power off and disconnecting it

Check that the HDMI cable is in straight not cocked or with any weight on it.

Try a different HDMI input socket. If that does not help and you have a D2v try one from number 5 +.

Change that digital source connection to a different HDMI cable


Issue 2


You may have a compatibility issue with your Computer video board

Check the video board forum or the manufacturer web site


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20333827
> 
> 
> Issue 1
> 
> Reboot all your devices including turning the D2v power off and disconnecting it
> 
> Check that the HDMI cable is in straight not cocked or with any weight on it.
> 
> Try a different HDMI input socket. If that does not help and you have a D2v try one from number 5 +.
> 
> Change that digital source connection to a different HDMI cable
> 
> 
> Issue 2
> 
> 
> You may have a compatibility issue with your Computer video board
> 
> Check the video board forum or the manufacturer web site



If none of this helps, it may be worth re-installing your firmware.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Arcadeus* /forum/post/20325736
> 
> 
> Hey folks... in post 33206... i mentioned that my background turned blue the other day from the original black that it was... i checked under display in the settings menu and main os was set to blue but there was no black option (which i know for a fact that it was)...



Isn't there a GREY option?



> Quote:
> is there a known issue where the background screen will turn another color from the one set in the main os under display (flickers magenta, stays magenta and then turns back to blue)
> 
> 
> This never happens when i have a video source ie my oppo is on (except in the case of issue two...)



I get green a lot, and have seen magenta, when switching inputs/outputs. I haven't bothered complaining about it because it rarely gets stuck in a bad state, and would be too much work to characterize in enough detail to get support from anyone.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson* /forum/post/20333127
> 
> 
> I have just got my D2v
> 
> on a number of occasions the dvd tape has started but I get an awful screech from my system if I turn the D2V off and then on again the screeching stops
> 
> any ideas
> 
> Not happy as I a sure not good for the speakers



First of all some punctuation would help - I keep misreading your second sentence.


I've never had "screeching" when playing a DVD or BD. Only "popping sound" when starting an HD-DVD (known issue) or shutting off the Anthem. Better contact [email protected] with all the info on your DVD player including model number, firmware version if you can find it, and connections used.


----------



## nrwatson

Thanks will drop them a note

Sorry about the punctuation never my strong point

It was meant to be "not happy as I am sure the noise is not good for my speakers"


----------



## dvcdude

Wow! I never thought I would see a time when this thread would go nearly 48 hours without a post....are we all happy and just enjoying the performance of our Anthem processors? I know I am!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow! I never thought I would see a time when this thread would go nearly 48 hours without a post....are we all happy and just enjoying the performance of our Anthem processors? I know I am!



It has happened):

John


----------



## dmusoke

Feels abandoned almost ...unless Anthem introduces something new. Even seems that Bob P left as well. I notice fewer ARC charts posted. Does that mean that folks have become experts at ARC or fewer 50v/D2v's are being purchased?


----------



## mookie b

Sounds like you guys are in need of an issue!


I have a small one. When I power up 50% of the time, the volume is a lot lower than normal. If I power off, and power on again volume is back to normal levels.


Is this a bug? I couldn't find it when searching for it....


----------



## CycloneMike

Quote:

Originally Posted by *mookie b* 
Sounds like you guys are in need of an issue!


I have a small one. When I power up 50% of the time, the volume is a lot lower than normal. If I power off, and power on again volume is back to normal levels.


Is this a bug? I couldn't find it when searching for it....
More than likely random ear wax, you would probably feel the bug moving around.


Seriously, I am unaware of any power on volume bugs. Is the volume setting different or the volume you are hearing and the setting is the same (should power up to the power on volume setting in the setup menu).


----------



## mookie b

Quote:

Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* 
More than likely random ear wax, you would probably feel the bug moving around.


Seriously, I am unaware of any power on volume bugs. Is the volume setting different or the volume you are hearing and the setting is the same (should power up to the power on volume setting in the setup menu).
Yeah, its really random. At the set volume I have setup for power on, sometimes its a lot lower than usual. Like I said, recycling power will fix this.


----------



## Shayne2

Hi all I have read a bit and would like to thank all so much for all the additional info. Can not believe the number of posts here and it is not a sticky yet. Attached is my first run and I am not too sure what I am exactly look at yet so all comments are more than welcome.


I am running 2.11 firmware and have one question. In arc it says my sub target is 80 hz but after up loaded it is stated as 60 on the avm 50v. All others are set to target valves, is that normal and should it be left at 60 hz.


Regards


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/20347219
> 
> 
> Hi all I have read a bit and would like to thank all so much for all the additional info. Can not believe the number of posts here and it is not a sticky yet. Attached is my first run and I am not too sure what I am exactly look at yet so all comments are more than welcome.
> 
> 
> I am running 2.11 firmware and have one question. In arc it says my sub target is 80 hz but after up loaded it is stated as 60 on the avm 50v. All others are set to target valves, is that normal and should it be left at 60 hz.
> 
> 
> Regards



The difference in the ARC cutoff of 80hZ in the target page and the crossover value of 60hZ that uploaded to the Anthem is normal.

It is explained in the message in the middle of the ARC target page, although Bob P. explains it better. But that is totally normal, and you're not the first one to be concerned with it.


I'm not a chart expert, but to me all your speakers look good except for your sub. There is a big dip at @50hZ. There can be a number of causes, but most likely related to positioning.

Under the 'tools' tab at the top of the ARC page you will find 'quick measure'.

If you click on it you can choose to do a QM on your sub and try different positions in your room until you can get rid of that 50hZ dip. Or at least lessen it.


There are many posts on this thread talking about sub positioning to help you. It often takes only a minor repositioning to help.


Tom


Edit- It also looks like your ARC volume is at 85db.

Did you set your 'noise level' and in the 'level calibration' section of the Anthem's setup menu to 75 db using a SPL meter before running ARC??

If not that would be the first thing to do.


Tom


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/20347219
> 
> 
> Hi all I have read a bit and would like to thank all so much for all the additional info. Can not believe the number of posts here and it is not a sticky yet. Attached is my first run and I am not too sure what I am exactly look at yet so all comments are more than welcome.
> 
> 
> I am running 2.11 firmware and have one question. In arc it says my sub target is 80 hz but after up loaded it is stated as 60 on the avm 50v. All others are set to target valves, is that normal and should it be left at 60 hz.
> 
> 
> Regards



Shayne:


There's a difference(in defiintion) between Target frequencies and Crossover frequencies. The targets are the maximum or minimum frequecies where ARC will perform its correction for that speaker. Crossovers, as you may know, are are used for bass re-direction as part of Anthems bass management. Sometimes, the targets and crossovers are the same and sometimes not. I wouldn't change what values ARC has uploaded unless you have a darn good reason to do so (and its happened once or twice on this forum).


You mains and surrounds look good. Your sub needs some re-position to eliminate that peak at 40Hz. It will negatively bias the calculated frequency response curve and targets to give you a xover thats too low. Shoot for a flat top curve for your sub, which seems to have good low and high frequency response.


Tom has posted several times his killer subwoofer response. If you're nice to him, he'll post one for you too...










Also remember to choose the flat setting option for the sub in the Advanced tab in the targets menu.


EDIT: Jayray below has a sub that was inducted into the Jayray "Subwoofer Hall of Fame". You have to see its response to believe it....


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all I have read a bit and would like to thank all so much for all the additional info. Can not believe the number of posts here and it is not a sticky yet. Attached is my first run and I am not too sure what I am exactly look at yet so all comments are more than welcome.
> 
> 
> I am running 2.11 firmware and have one question. In arc it says my sub target is 80 hz but after up loaded it is stated as 60 on the avm 50v. All others are set to target valves, is that normal and should it be left at 60 hz.
> 
> 
> Regards




Your cutoff is 80 and what you see in the setup menu is crossover. Your charts for your speakers look very good. However, you should try moving your sub to move your measured curve up in the 40-100Hz. range. I can almost guarantee this is a positioning issue. Your sub appears to be quite capable but in the present location you're missing a lot of impact LFE. You can use the Quick measure utility in ARC's Advanced mode to test different locations. Once you do this and find a better location, you need to do a new full measurement, as quick measure wipes out previous settings and the new location needs to be considered for ARC to do it's "magic". Don't be surprised if your cutoff changes to 120 Hz once you have found a better location.

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20347315
> 
> 
> Jayray below has a sub that was inducted into the Jayray "Subwoofer Hall of Fame". You have to see its response to believe it....



Amen to that, brother.


----------



## MACCA350

Any particular reason the D2v's power on cycle duration isn't consistent?

Sometimes it powers on quickly, other times it seems to take forever.


I'd have thought it would be consistent, should it be? does it suggest an issue if it isn't?


Cheers


----------



## Shayne2

Thank guys for the help it is greatly appreciated. I knew my sub (Servo 15) should be preforming better with this new prepro. This is my second run and I have moved the sub around but can not seem to get it flat and it still has the peak but the notable dip is gone. I am currently welding up a new ht stand since I am worried that this new A5 will collapse my current one. Therefore things will be moving around for the next little while and the tweaking has just begun ;-). I am trying to get a feel for what I am looking for and your help and comments are invaluable.


The up load is still stating sub xover at 60 hz.


Regards


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/20348312
> 
> 
> Thank guys for the help it is greatly appreciated. I knew my sub (Servo 15) should be preforming better with this new prepro. This is my second run and I have moved the sub around but can not seem to get it flat and it still has the peak but the notable dip is gone. I am currently welding up a new ht stand since I am worried that this new A5 will collapse my current one. Therefore things will be moving around for the next little while and the tweaking has just begun ;-). I am trying to get a feel for what I am looking for and your help and comments are invaluable.
> 
> 
> The up load is still stating sub xover at 60 hz.
> 
> 
> Regards




That is still a nice bass graph, that peak may produce some unwanted rumble but should still sound very good. If you don't like the rumble try moving the sub a little further away from the corner, if it's in a corner.


John


----------



## 600M_Home

Greetings All,

Well finally made the jump from my current AVM-20 to a D2v! It's still in the box waiting for me to get home to install but in the mean time been tiring to read-up on all your collective knowledge.


This whole ARC process is new to me...is there an ARC-101 thread someplace to help get me pointed in the right direction. I have been looking at the links on page one for now but not sure what is history (been corrected in current firmware) and what I really need to pay attention too to get started.


Thanks in advance to allJim


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *600M_Home* /forum/post/20348710
> 
> 
> Greetings All,
> 
> Well finally made the jump from my current AVM-20 to a D2v! It's still in the box waiting for me to get home to install but in the mean time been tiring to read-up on all your collective knowledge.
> 
> 
> This whole ARC process is new to me...is there an ARC-101 thread someplace to help get me pointed in the right direction. I have been looking at the links on page one for now but not sure what is history (been corrected in current firmware) and what I really need to pay attention too to get started.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance to allJim



I would look at the *1st Post in This Thread*


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/20348312
> 
> 
> Thank guys for the help it is greatly appreciated. I knew my sub (Servo 15) should be preforming better with this new prepro. This is my second run and I have moved the sub around but can not seem to get it flat and it still has the peak but the notable dip is gone. I am currently welding up a new ht stand since I am worried that this new A5 will collapse my current one. Therefore things will be moving around for the next little while and the tweaking has just begun ;-). I am trying to get a feel for what I am looking for and your help and comments are invaluable.
> 
> 
> The up load is still stating sub xover at 60 hz.
> 
> 
> Regards



That subwoofer graph looks much better. Your entire graph looks very good.

Your volumes still look like they are at 85db instead of the recommended 75db. What is ARC uploading your speaker levels at?

If it having to compensate by turning all your speaker levels to -10, then you will want to set your levels to 75db before your next ARC run. See post #33189 on page 1107 for Bob's instructions. (someone needs to teach me how to add alink to a post)


Again, I'm not an expert, but 'what you are looking for' is getting your measured (red line) to get as close to the target (blue line) as possible so that when ARC calculates its correction (green line) they (the blue and green line) are basically the same.

The better your actual measured lines are, the less work ARC has to do to correct that speaker, and the more it can use that speaker to help correct deficits in other speakers.


While looking at the graphs is helpful, listening to music and watching movies is what its all about.

Sit back and enjoy your toys and see (hear) what you think.










Tom


----------



## ehlarson

So I am going to be doing a massive firmware update / re-arc soon. Currently I'm at firmware 2.07 and Arc 2.x.


Is there any particular order in which the new updates should be applied?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20349060
> 
> 
> (someone needs to teach me how to add alink to a post)
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Ask and you shall receive


Type and highlight or highlight the phrase or subject line you want to link

Then go to the icon with the insert link icon on the second line

Enter the URL address you want to link by pasting or typing it

Click Ok


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/20348312
> 
> 
> Thank guys for the help it is greatly appreciated. I knew my sub (Servo 15) should be preforming better with this new prepro. This is my second run and I have moved the sub around but can not seem to get it flat and it still has the peak but the notable dip is gone. I am currently welding up a new ht stand since I am worried that this new A5 will collapse my current one. Therefore things will be moving around for the next little while and the tweaking has just begun ;-). I am trying to get a feel for what I am looking for and your help and comments are invaluable.
> 
> 
> The up load is still stating sub xover at 60 hz.
> 
> 
> Regards



Your charts look good, and your sub chart looks a lot better. The peak is about 3db. So, I wouldn't really worry about that too much. I think you are at a point that you should now sit back and listen for a while and see if your ears like what they are hearing. Congrats!!!!!!


Edit: Before you run ARC again, you should turn down the Noise Level so that you are closer to 75db. Your graphs are around 85db which is higher than normal.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/20346598
> 
> 
> Yeah, its really random. At the set volume I have setup for power on, sometimes its a lot lower than usual. Like I said, recycling power will fix this.



Known issue but not well understood. If you can figure out a pattern or how to reproduce it Anthem would like to know.


----------



## ccool96

Finally upgraded my Denon receiver for an AVM50V. I had been using Anthem amps for sometime, but had put the processor on hold after upgrading my projector for a DP Titan Ref 3D.


Now 2 things Im trying to figure out. Im sure its listed somewhere in the thread but due to its size it is impossible to find.


Is there a way to setup say "DVD1" and have it set to 1080P/60 and then have it automatically change to 1080P/24 when that is detected?


I have setup a seperate video config for 1080P/24 then assigned it to "DVD2" but seems like to me there has to be a way to automatically do this??


Also is there a way to turn off the video processor or just a passthur method?


Thanks for the help! This has to be one of the longest threads I have ever seen on AVS!!!


----------



## ccool96

My ARC graphs:





















How do these compare to others?? Looks like my Surround Rears had a dip that Arc couldn't correct?


----------



## dmusoke

Shayne:


Like many others have said, you sub looks super and not to worry about the slight peak you're getting in the low regions. ARC has successfully taken care of it and its not a big deal anymore.


I think i understand why ARC picked a xover of 60Hz. Your mains (LF & RF) are very good







. They are practically full range so the sub is relegated to handle the much lower regions of the spectrum. Even though your mains could handle it, they wouldn't do it as well as a dedicated sub could in power and authority. So 60Hz is really OK.


You're RF has a big dip in the lowest of frequencies that (again like your earlier sub pics) can be eliminated by positioning. Its probably too close to a surface wall, but w/o knowing your setup, i'm guessing here.


Your center speaker response is sloping off at the high end. I'm assuming its of the same make as the rest of your speakers. Height positioning or tilting it upwards, towards you will flatten the response curve.


Others have plenty mentioned your reference 85dB levels are too high. Need to be 75dB. Just do it







!!!


I think you're at least 95% there and soon ready to enjoy the fruits of your labor







.


EDIT:


Shayne...could you help a brother out by making your charts a wee bit larger (ok, much larger than the ones you;ve been posting)?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccool96* /forum/post/20349684
> 
> 
> Is there a way to setup say "DVD1" and have it set to 1080P/60 and then have it automatically change to 1080P/24 when that is detected?
> 
> 
> I have setup a seperate video config for 1080P/24 then assigned it to "DVD2" but seems like to me there has to be a way to automatically do this??
> 
> 
> Also is there a way to turn off the video processor or just a passthur method?



I wish.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20349078
> 
> 
> So I am going to be doing a massive firmware update / re-arc soon. Currently I'm at firmware 2.07 and Arc 2.x.
> 
> 
> Is there any particular order in which the new updates should be applied?



I would update the FW first, for it will wipe out all flash data, including ARCs filter coefficients. After a successful FW uplaod, then perform ARC as needed.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccool96* /forum/post/20349684
> 
> 
> Finally upgraded my Denon receiver for an AVM50V. I had been using Anthem amps for sometime, but had put the processor on hold after upgrading my projector for a DP Titan Ref 3D.
> 
> 
> Now 2 things Im trying to figure out. Im sure its listed somewhere in the thread but due to its size it is impossible to find.
> 
> 
> Is there a way to setup say "DVD1" and have it set to 1080P/60 and then have it automatically change to 1080P/24 when that is detected?
> 
> 
> I have setup a seperate video config for 1080P/24 then assigned it to "DVD2" but seems like to me there has to be a way to automatically do this??
> 
> 
> Also is there a way to turn off the video processor or just a passthur method?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help! This has to be one of the longest threads I have ever seen on AVS!!!



Ccool96...i'll give this shot.


1. Activate FrameLock(Press 7 on your remote for the video processor menu. Then select Output ->FrameLock -> Auto) for DVD1 input. In this way, it sync to the source frame rate and send it out to the TV/projector. But note that FrameLock process is slow(5-10secs) when switching between sources of different frame rates. You decide if this delay is worth it to you.


2. Using HDMI, you can't bypass the video processor. At best, set the input and output video parameters to be identical to minimize any processing or scaling it may do. Using the analog composite and component video streams, you can bypass the processor.


(But why would you want to do so? Its an excellent processor in every way).


----------



## dmusoke

Ccool96:


1. Just as important, please post your Targets menu







.


2. Your sub needs to be repositioned to eliminate that large dip. Try moving it away from the corner, if that's where it is right now. Afterwards, then go to the Targets menu and pick the Advanced tab and change subwoofer high pass setting from Auto to Flat.


3. Your mains and rears have a sizable dip around 100Hz. I'd move them closer to the wall, if possible, to add more gain in that region. if you can't do that, then i'd reduce the room gain that ARC has calculated for you assigned.

But w/o knowing what that is, 'coz you've not posted the targets(














), its tough to recommend anything useful.


4. All your speakers drop off rapidly after 7KHz. I'm assuming this isn't what the mfgr designed them to be. Make sure the ARC microphone is pointing straight upwards during the tests and its not placed near any other surface at all. You might also have a faulty microphone that anthem would need to replace but let's not assume so now until you've implemented the recommendations above.


5. Is the dip in the surrounds from 500Hz to 2kHz part of teh speaker design? I know some manufacturers implement a unique speaker response to meet their tastes(e. BBC curve 'em brits like to use so much).


6. Leave the default target frequency to 5Khz based on your current speaker frequency response. Do not raise it.


----------



## ccool96




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20349834
> 
> 
> Ccool96:
> 
> 
> 1. Just as important, please post your Targets menu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 2. Your sub needs to be repositioned to eliminate that large dip. Try moving it away from the corner, if that's where it is right now. Afterwards, then go to the Targets menu and pick the Advanced tab and change subwoofer high pass setting from Auto to Flat.
> 
> 
> 3. Your mains and rears have a sizable dip around 100Hz. I'd move them closer to the wall, if possible, to add more gain in that region. if you can't do that, then i'd reduce the room gain that ARC has calculated for you assigned.
> 
> But w/o knowing what that is, 'coz you've not posted the targets(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), its tough to recommend anything useful.
> 
> 
> 4. All your speakers drop off rapidly after 7KHz. I'm assuming this isn't what the mfgr designed them to be. Make sure the ARC microphone is pointing straight upwards during the tests and its not placed near any other surface at all. You might also have a faulty microphone that anthem would need to replace but let's not assume so now until you've implemented the recommendations above.
> 
> 
> 5. Is the dip in the surrounds from 500Hz to 2kHz part of teh speaker design? I know some manufacturers implement a unique speaker response to meet their tastes(e. BBC curve 'em brits like to use so much).
> 
> 
> 6. Leave the default target frequency to 5Khz based on your current speaker frequency response. Do not raise it.



Here are my Targets:


----------



## dmusoke




ccool96 said:


> Here are my Targets:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ccool96:
> 
> 
> Try the positioning of the mains first before tinckering with the xovers as i suggested earlier. If this doesn't eliminate or reduce the hump around 100hz, then, i'd change the mains xovers from 60Hz to 100Hz. That will move the room gain hump away and above 100Hz. Your sub, once placed correctly, would be crossed at 120Hz or so, the max possible while still not hearing dialog from the sub, which you obviously do not want to have.
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> 
> Realy really cool and awesome movie theater
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! Wow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!!
> 
> Now, i can see that speaker movement is really not an option. Find a way to move the sub, if possible. That is the most critcal move you could make here...


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20349060
> 
> 
> That subwoofer graph looks much better. Your entire graph looks very good.
> 
> Your volumes still look like they are at 85db instead of the recommended 75db. What is ARC uploading your speaker levels at?
> 
> If it having to compensate by turning all your speaker levels to -10, then you will want to set your levels to 75db before your next ARC run. See post #33189 on page 1107 for Bob's instructions. (someone needs to teach me how to add alink to a post)
> 
> 
> Again, I'm not an expert, but 'what you are looking for' is getting your measured (red line) to get as close to the target (blue line) as possible so that when ARC calculates its correction (green line) they (the blue and green line) are basically the same.
> 
> The better your actual measured lines are, the less work ARC has to do to correct that speaker, and the more it can use that speaker to help correct deficits in other speakers.
> 
> 
> While looking at the graphs is helpful, listening to music and watching movies is what its all about.
> 
> Sit back and enjoy your toys and see (hear) what you think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Thanks for your coments I guess getting them to match is where playing with the EQ freq comes in? What I have done for both runs is set all speakers to 0 and adjust main to 75 db and then the volume control on the sub to match this 75. Using the sources spl1000.


Regards


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20349731
> 
> 
> Shayne:
> 
> 
> Like many others have said, you sub looks super and not to worry about the slight peak you're getting in the low regions. ARC has successfully taken care of it and its not a big deal anymore.
> 
> 
> I think i understand why ARC picked a xover of 60Hz. Your mains (LF & RF) are very good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They are practically full range so the sub is relegated to handle the much lower regions of the spectrum. Even though your mains could handle it, they wouldn't do it as well as a dedicated sub could in power and authority. So 60Hz is really OK.
> 
> 
> You're RF has a big dip in the lowest of frequencies that (again like your earlier sub pics) can be eliminated by positioning. Its probably too close to a surface wall, but w/o knowing your setup, i'm guessing here.
> 
> 
> Your center speaker response is sloping off at the high end. I'm assuming its of the same make as the rest of your speakers. Height positioning or tilting it upwards, towards you will flatten the response curve.
> 
> 
> Others have plenty mentioned your reference 85dB levels are too high. Need to be 75dB. Just do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!!
> 
> 
> I think you're at least 95% there and soon ready to enjoy the fruits of your labor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> 
> Shayne...could you help a brother out by making your charts a wee bit larger (ok, much larger than the ones you;ve been posting)?



I guess the general opinion is my source spl1000 is not the most accurate unit you can buy, any suggestion?


My LF is about 6' from a wall and 2' from the wood box. With my new stand I will be able to pinch my speakers closer to 22 - 30 degrees and pull my sub a bit farther off the wall.


The jpgs are fine before uploading but the forum compresses the I will try to fix.


Thanks guys for your time.


Regards


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. I decided to to orientate my centre to it's vertical position as I don't have it sitting on top of a lowline unit on it's side anymore. It's sitting on a low speaker stand with isolation pads same as the ones I'm using for the fronts called Auralex. I now have the mains angled slightly down firing at my main listening position, but the center speaker isn't as high as the mains due to the screen 100" being above it.


Anyway here are my latest ARC results. What are your thoughts? The dip on the LF is most likely due to the fact it's right near an open area where I have french folding doors opening to a hall way, and these were open during the calibration as I get a better bass result this way (I've tried both). To me the system sounds excellent and the bass is much improved since the first time I posted my results after taking delivery of my 2nd sub (Mark Seaton Submersive).


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *600M_Home* /forum/post/20348710
> 
> 
> Greetings All,
> 
> Well finally made the jump from my current AVM-20 to a D2v! It's still in the box waiting for me to get home to install but in the mean time been tiring to read-up on all your collective knowledge.
> 
> *This whole ARC process is new to me...is there an ARC-101 thread* someplace to help get me pointed in the right direction. I have been looking at the links on page one for now but not sure what is history (been corrected in current firmware) and what I really need to pay attention too to get started.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance to allJim


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post18914184


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/20350016
> 
> 
> Thanks for your coments I guess getting them to match is where playing with the EQ freq comes in? What I have done for both runs is set all speakers to 0 and *adjust main to 75 db* and then the volume control on the sub to match this 75. Using the sources spl1000.
> 
> 
> Regards



If what you mean by *'adjust the main'* is you go into the Anthem's set-up menu> level calibration.

Then set all speaker levels to 0.

Then turn 'noise sequence' to manual.

Then go to 'noise level' line and, using your spl meter at your primary listening position (at ear level and pointing straight up at least a foot in front of any surface), adjust the noise level til the spl (set to 'C weighting'/'slow') is reading is 75db.

Then push select.

Then going down to the sub line (music or movie) and then adjusting its volume by using the sub's own gain control until it measures 75db.

Then exiting the Anthem's set-up menu and running ARC.

Then were on the same page.


If you do this, then the ARC readings should be closer to 75db than 85db.


Tom


The link in the post above is Bob P.'s directions , and are probably better.


----------



## ccool96




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20349777
> 
> 
> Ccool96...i'll give this shot.
> 
> 
> 1. Activate FrameLock(Press 7 on your remote for the video processor menu. Then select Output ->FrameLock -> Auto) for DVD1 input. In this way, it sync to the source frame rate and send it out to the TV/projector. But note that FrameLock process is slow(5-10secs) when switching between sources of different frame rates. You decide if this delay is worth it to you.
> 
> 
> 2. Using HDMI, you can't bypass the video processor. At best, set the input and output video parameters to be identical to minimize any processing or scaling it may do. Using the analog composite and component video streams, you can bypass the processor.
> 
> 
> (But why would you want to do so? Its an excellent processor in every way).



I tried the FrameLock but that didnt seem to work, or atleast with my Titan Projector. I really wish I could get the AVM to switch between 1080P/60 and 1080P/24. It really only matters to me because I would like the Volume/Info overlay.


Right now im back to using the AVM for Audio only. I use a Lumagen Radiance XE because of 3D. One output feeds the Titan and the other feeds the AVM. The Radiance XE allows me to vertically stretch for 3D Frame-Packed Blu-ray so I can use im anamorphic lens. It also has seperate CMS calibration for 2D and 3D. That is why i was wondering if I could bypass the internal video processor.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/20350078
> 
> 
> I guess the general opinion is my source spl1000 is not the most accurate unit you can buy, any suggestion?
> 
> 
> My LF is about 6' from a wall and 2' from the wood box. With my new stand I will be able to pinch my speakers closer to 22 - 30 degrees and pull my sub a bit farther off the wall.
> 
> 
> The jpgs are fine before uploading but the forum compresses the I will try to fix.
> 
> 
> Thanks guys for your time.
> 
> 
> Regards



The RadioShack SPL meter that many of us use here is accurate enough.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccool96* /forum/post/20350835
> 
> 
> I tried the FrameLock but that didnt seem to work, or atleast with my Titan Projector. I really wish I could get the AVM to switch between 1080P/60 and 1080P/24. It really only matters to me because I would like the Volume/Info overlay.
> 
> 
> Right now im back to using the AVM for Audio only. I use a Lumagen Radiance XE because of 3D. One output feeds the Titan and the other feeds the AVM. The Radiance XE allows me to vertically stretch for 3D Frame-Packed Blu-ray so I can use im anamorphic lens. It also has seperate CMS calibration for 2D and 3D. That is why i was wondering if I could bypass the internal video processor.



Section 4 of my D2v manual says it all... page 71 ( 79 / 102 ).


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20350575
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post18914184



+1







Great Link Studly...this should be the definitive "How to ARC" link for all Anthem Users.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20351162
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great Link Studly...this should be the definitive "How to ARC" link for all Anthem Users.



It is for me, thanks again to Bob.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19103000
> 
> 
> Ok, so I took the opportunity to retire the aging Panasonic BD30 and picked up an OPPO BDS-83 which came with the AIX and Spears & Munsil.
> 
> 
> ***One big note is that neither of those discs contained test tones mastered in DTS-HDMA *5.1* which is the format that I've found major discrepancies with. Sure there's a DTS-HDMA 7.1 test and you'll note there is some behavior with it also.
> 
> 
> So here is the data comparing Bitstreaming to LPCM output:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of things pop out:
> 
> 1. Both the D2v and OPPO seem to be adjusting for DialNorm on the DD tracks by increasing DD levels by 4dB(which as I understand it was an agreement between THX and Dolby to allow this automatic increase in THX products)
> 
> 2. Both the D2v and OPPO seem to NOT be adjusting for DialNorm on the D-TrueHD tracks.
> 
> 3. PCM 5.1 + PLIIx Movie processing in the D2v causes an increase in levels of 3dB
> 
> 4. DTS-HDMA 7.1 processing in the D2v causes a drop in L/R channels of 3dB
> 
> 
> I will run some tests on DTS-HDMA 5.1 tracks and compare the Bitstream and LPCM output to see if anything pops up......based on the above tests the LPCM output 'should' be 3dB louder if the D2v is correctly processing DTS-HDMA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I made sure Dolby Volume was off in the 'Source Setup' menu and also ensured it and 'DD/DTS Dynamics' were not on while playing tracks
> 
> 
> I'm not so sure DialNorm is in play as the D2v seems to be compensating for DialNorm on DD tracks and increasing them by 4dB.
> 
> I had also thought DialNorm was responsible for 4dB of the difference leaving ~6dB unaccounted for. After seeing the results from these tests I wondered whether the PCM 5.1 +PLIIx issue was also present on DTS-HDMA 5.1 +PLIIx processing...........and the strange DTS-HDMA 7.1 processing leads me to believe there may be some other issue at play.
> 
> 
> Will run some more tests.
> 
> 
> EDIT: Here is War of the Worlds comparing Bitstream to LPCM output. Since it seems LPCM output with no processing is accurate I've used that as the comparator. Also the usual +4dB DialNorm didn't show up on this DD track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there is a few differences there. Ignoring the DVD tracks, there seems to be an increase of 3dB in the D2v when decoding DTS-HDMA and then another 3dB increase when applying PLIIx to it.............there's 6dB.
> 
> The rest is probably DialNorm and/or remix/remastering.
> 
> 
> cheers



I have narrow it down. The frontspeakers (play 3 db to low) issue when the Anthem dekoder DTS hd , is always in play. The overall level is 3 dB to hot vs pcm from Oppo, when its 5.1 DTS hd. DTS hd 7.1 does not have that issue. I have testet it on Toy story 3 and kick ass.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20352676
> 
> 
> I have narrow it down. The frontspeakers (play 3 db to low) issue when the Anthem dekoder DTS hd , is always in play.



Not always, you'll notice I found this when decoding DTS-HDMA 7.1 in the 'channel id' tests but not in the 'speaker balance' tests. Maybe there's a difference in the encoding, possibly something to do with the MA channel mapping thingamabob.


Are you suggesting it occurs when decoding DTS-HDMA 5.1 also?



> Quote:
> The overall level is 3 dB to hot vs pcm from Oppo, when its 5.1 DTS hd. DTS hd 7.1 does not have that issue. I have testet it on Toy story 3 and kick ass.



Thanks for checking, so you're findings concur with what was shown in my testing? Is there anything that stands out as different?


One thing I haven't been able to figure out is why there is such a level difference between DVD and BD versions. Maybe more testing is needed, but then again I did bring all this to Anthems attention way back then and left the ball in their court to sort it out.



Btw here's another post on the subject:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/19108730
> 
> 
> Bob, I ran more tests and while there is a small difference in level with ARC on/off it has no effect on the findings. The variations are there with or without ARC.
> 
> 
> Here's today's Data:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Findings:
> 
> 1. LPCM 7.1 seems to be processed perfectly
> 
> 2. LPCM 5.1 with the D2v in 5.1 mode or with PLIIx off seems to be processed perfectly
> 
> 3. LPCM 5.1 with the D2v in 6/7.1 mode with PLIIx off seems to be processed perfectly
> 
> 4. LPCM 5.1 with the D2v in 6/7.1 mode with PLIIx on seems to cause a 3dB increase in levels across all channels
> 
> (though the Surround Rears may be at the correct levels, there is no test on the disc for this)
> 
> 5. Dolby TrueHD 7.1 with the D2v in 7.1 mode seems to be processed perfectly
> 
> 6. Dolby TrueHD 7.1 with the D2v in 6.1 mode seems to cause a 6dB drop in the Surround Rear channel
> 
> (Dolby TrueHD tracks seem to be reduced by 4dB across the board with no DialNorm value reported by the D2v)
> 
> 7. Dolby Digital 5.1 with the D2v in 5/6/7.1 mode or with PLIIx on or off seems to be processed perfectly
> 
> 8. DTS-HDMA 7.1 with the D2v in 6/7.1 mode seems to cause a 3dB drop in the Front Left and Front Right channels.
> 
> There is also a strange mix going on where the Surround Left/Right channel signal is also sent to the respective
> 
> Front Left/Right channel but at a much lower SPL
> 
> 9. DTS 5.1 with the D2v in 5/6/7.1 mode or with PLIIx on or off seems to cause a drop of 3dB in the Surround Left and
> 
> Surround Right channels and a drop of 2dB in the Subwoofer channel (this also seems to be occurring in the OPPO BDP-83
> 
> when it decodes internally, so it may be either both are processing incorrectly or the AIX test tones are incorrect)
> 
> 10. DD and LPCM 2.0 with the D2v in 5/6/7.1 mode or with PLIIx on or off seem to be processed perfectly
> 
> (although AIX only has Total Left and Total Right channel signals for 2.0 tests)
> 
> 
> 11. AIX tests only carry signals for those specific channels, they don't encode phantom or matrix channels, so testing
> 
> PLIIx processing of those matrixed channels is not possible. For example the 5.1 tests in PLIIx will not reveal any issues
> 
> on the Surround Rear channels and 2.0 tests in PLIIx wont reveal any issues on the Centre or any Surround channels.
> 
> It's possible there are other processing issues that I have not uncovered yet. I do have some matrixed test signals so
> 
> may look at it another time.
> 
> 
> All the data has also been passed on to the Anthem's Australian tech department.
> 
> 
> Cheers


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20356224
> 
> 
> Not always, you'll notice I found this when decoding DTS-HDMA 7.1 in the 'channel id' tests but not in the 'speaker balance' tests. Maybe there's a difference in the encoding, possibly something to do with the MA channel mapping thingamabob.
> 
> i have turn op for the front (3db) and then turn down the center 3 db, to get around the issue. Are you saing that that is not allways in play? for me it sound right, when i see a movie.
> 
> 
> where did you find dts hd speaker balance?
> 
> 
> Are you suggesting it occurs when decoding DTS-HDMA 5.1 also?
> 
> 
> yes....the 3db frontspeaker issue is also in play when its dts hd 5.1.......and the overall sound is 2-3 db to hot.......but that is not in play when it is dts hd 7.1. its easy to hear/measure in toy story 3. there is dts hd 5.1 and 7.1. When playing bitstream the 5.1 track is 3db louder then 7.1...both dts hd.
> 
> 
> so my findings:
> 
> 
> dts hd 7.1 - front down by 3 db
> 
> 
> dts hd 5.1 - front down by 3 db and overall volume is 2-3db too hot
> 
> 
> when the anthem is decoding
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking, so you're findings concur with what was shown in my testing? Is there anything that stands out as different?
> 
> 
> One thing I haven't been able to figure out is why there is such a level difference between DVD and BD versions. Maybe more testing is needed, but then again I did bring all this to Anthems attention way back then and left the ball in their court to sort it out.
> 
> i have tested it on Seven dvd vs blu ray. i have not measured it , but my ges is that bd is about 6-8 db louder. good bye reference level :-(
> 
> Btw here's another post on the subject:



hj


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20356542
> 
> 
> i have turn op for the front (3db) and then turn down the center 3 db, to get around the issue. Are you saing that that is not allways in play? for me it sound right, when i see a movie.



Seems that way from those tests I did, though I haven't tested DTS-HDMA 5.1 tracks for this.



> Quote:
> where did you find dts hd speaker balance?



They're on the AIX Audio Calibration Disc, same disc I used for all the tests except those War of the World ones.



> Quote:
> yes....the 3db frontspeaker issue is also in play when its dts hd 5.1.......and the overall sound is 2-3 db to hot.......but that is not in play when it is dts hd 7.1. its easy to hear/measure in toy story 3. there is dts hd 5.1 and 7.1. When playing bitstream the 5.1 track is 3db louder then 7.1...both dts hd.
> 
> 
> so my findings:
> 
> dts hd 7.1 - front down by 3 db
> 
> dts hd 5.1 - front down by 3 db and overall volume is 2-3db too hot
> 
> when the anthem is decoding



that lines up with what I found on War of the Worlds, ie 3dB increase when bitstreaming. Have you found additional discrepancies when compared to DVD?


I found DTS-HDMA 5.1 3dB higher when decoded in the anthem, plus 3dB higher when using PLIIx(strange as all other testing seemed to suggest it only affected LPCM), plus another 3-4dB higher when compared to DVD's DD or DTS(no idea what's causing this one, may be an issue with the D2v or could be the mixers for the BD fiddled with the levels).........that's a total of 9-10dB higher than DVD tracks when bit streamed to the D2v.


I don't have access to the beta firmware so haven't been able to test for these issues, and was hoping to wait until then to go through it again. Hopefully something is/has been done to sort out these issues.



Edit:


> Quote:
> i have tested it on Seven dvd vs blu ray. i have not measured it , but my ges is that bd is about 6-8 db louder. good bye reference level :-(



Just noticed this, so you have found other discrepancies. Are you using PLIIx?


Cheers


----------



## p.las

MACCA350:

i will try to take some more movie test. What have you done to get around the issues?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20356224
> 
> 
> Not always, you'll notice I found this when decoding DTS-HDMA 7.1 in the 'channel id' tests but not in the 'speaker balance' tests. Maybe there's a difference in the encoding, possibly something to do with the MA channel mapping thingamabob.
> 
> 
> Are you suggesting it occurs when decoding DTS-HDMA 5.1 also?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking, so you're findings concur with what was shown in my testing? Is there anything that stands out as different?
> 
> 
> One thing I haven't been able to figure out is why there is such a level difference between DVD and BD versions. Maybe more testing is needed, but then again I did bring all this to Anthems attention way back then and left the ball in their court to sort it out.
> 
> 
> 
> Btw here's another post on the subject:





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20356598
> 
> 
> Seems that way from those tests I did, though I haven't tested DTS-HDMA 5.1 tracks for this.
> 
> 
> 
> They're on the AIX Audio Calibration Disc, same disc I used for all the tests except those War of the World ones.
> 
> 
> 
> that lines up with what I found on War of the Worlds, ie 3dB increase when bitstreaming. Have you found additional discrepancies when compared to DVD?
> 
> 
> I found DTS-HDMA 5.1 3dB higher when decoded in the anthem, plus 3dB higher when using PLIIx(strange as all other testing seemed to suggest it only affected LPCM), plus another 3-4dB higher when compared to DVD's DD or DTS(no idea what's causing this one, may be an issue with the D2v or could be the mixers for the BD fiddled with the levels).........that's a total of 9-10dB higher than DVD tracks when bit streamed to the D2v.
> 
> 
> I don't have access to the beta firmware so haven't been able to test for these issues, and was hoping to wait until then to go through it again. Hopefully something is/has been done to sort out these issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Just noticed this, so you have found other discrepancies. Are you using PLIIx?
> 
> 
> Cheers



no ,iam not using plIIx.


as you can see i have turn up for all my fronts, and the dial down the center. this will affeckt all incoming dts hd signal . if its not and issue on dts hd 5.1 the front will play 3 db louder in 5.1 vs 7.1 an center will not. But that not the case. My finding is when i measured the center speaker, it play louder in 5.1 vs 7.1. ore pcm vs bitsream


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20356224
> 
> 
> Not always, you'll notice I found this when decoding DTS-HDMA 7.1 in the 'channel id' tests but not in the 'speaker balance' tests. Maybe there's a difference in the encoding, possibly something to do with the MA channel mapping thingamabob.
> 
> 
> Are you suggesting it occurs when decoding DTS-HDMA 5.1 also?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking, so you're findings concur with what was shown in my testing? Is there anything that stands out as different?
> 
> 
> One thing I haven't been able to figure out is why there is such a level difference between DVD and BD versions. Maybe more testing is needed, but then again I did bring all this to Anthems attention way back then and left the ball in their court to sort it out.
> 
> 
> 
> Btw here's another post on the subject:





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20356598
> 
> 
> Seems that way from those tests I did, though I haven't tested DTS-HDMA 5.1 tracks for this.
> 
> 
> 
> They're on the AIX Audio Calibration Disc, same disc I used for all the tests except those War of the World ones.
> 
> 
> 
> that lines up with what I found on War of the Worlds, ie 3dB increase when bitstreaming. Have you found additional discrepancies when compared to DVD?
> 
> 
> I found DTS-HDMA 5.1 3dB higher when decoded in the anthem, plus 3dB higher when using PLIIx(strange as all other testing seemed to suggest it only affected LPCM), plus another 3-4dB higher when compared to DVD's DD or DTS(no idea what's causing this one, may be an issue with the D2v or could be the mixers for the BD fiddled with the levels).........that's a total of 9-10dB higher than DVD tracks when bit streamed to the D2v.
> 
> 
> I don't have access to the beta firmware so haven't been able to test for these issues, and was hoping to wait until then to go through it again. Hopefully something is/has been done to sort out these issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Just noticed this, so you have found other discrepancies. Are you using PLIIx?
> 
> 
> Cheers



no ,iam not using plIIx.


as you can see i have turn up for all my fronts, and the dial down the center. this will affeckt all incoming dts hd signal . if its not and issue on dts hd 5.1 the front will play 3 db louder in 5.1 vs 7.1 an center will not. But that not the case. My finding is when i measured the center speaker, it play louder in 5.1 vs 7.1. ore pcm vs bitsream


edit: i will check it to day, but ill bet that the issue is both dts hd 5.1 and 7.1.

it was on movies witt dts hd 5.1 i cut here there was somthing wrong. dilalog was way upfront. i didnt here it as louder, just more upfront


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20350814
> 
> 
> If what you mean by *'adjust the main'* is you go into the Anthem's set-up menu> level calibration.
> 
> Then set all speaker levels to 0.
> 
> Then turn 'noise sequence' to manual.
> 
> Then go to 'noise level' line and, using your spl meter at your primary listening position (at ear level and pointing straight up at least a foot in front of any surface), adjust the noise level til the spl (set to 'C weighting'/'slow') is reading is 75db.
> 
> Then push select.
> 
> Then going down to the sub line (music or movie) and then adjusting its volume by using the sub's own gain control until it measures 75db.
> 
> Then exiting the Anthem's set-up menu and running ARC.
> 
> Then were on the same page.
> 
> 
> If you do this, then the ARC readings should be closer to 75db than 85db.
> 
> 
> Tom
> 
> 
> The link in the post above is Bob P.'s directions , and are probably better.



Yes that is exactly what I have done for all my runs I have read all the posts that are linked to on the first page about arc. I have a summary of cut and pastes that may be useful and could be edited and placed on the first page but I am not the guy qualified to edit it. If anyone wants them let me know.


My SPL1000 is not accurate it is from the Source (Canada's radio shack) and is digital, we can not get the one from radio shack in Canada. I approximated this run by used 75/85 * 75 = 66 DB for my setting and they appear to be around the 75 range, Bob does say a ball park is what you are looking for, not too sure if these are close enough.


My sub sounds a lot better now, thanks guys. It now indicates 105 in the target but still gets set to 60. My centre will be moving up 16" with my new stand and I will have more flexibility on my front positions. It now sounds true amazing and any better would be a bonus. Happy camper here.


Regards


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/20356753
> 
> 
> Yes that is exactly what I have done for all my runs I have read all the posts that are linked to on the first page about arc. I have a summary of cut and pastes that may be useful and could be edited and placed on the first page but I am not the guy qualified to edit it. If anyone wants them let me know.
> 
> 
> My SPL1000 is not accurate it is from the Source (Canada's radio shack) and is digital, we can not get the one from radio shack in Canada. I approximated this run by used 75/85 * 75 = 66 DB for my setting and they appear to be around the 75 range, Bob does say a ball park is what you are looking for, not too sure if these are close enough.
> 
> 
> My sub sounds a lot better now, thanks guys. It now indicates 105 in the target but still gets set to 60. My centre will be moving up 16" with my new stand and I will have more flexibility on my front positions. It now sounds true amazing and any better would be a bonus. Happy camper here.
> 
> 
> Regards



Looks good. Good job compensating for your spl meter. Maybe one of the other Cannucks on this thread can help you find a more accurate spl meter.


It's time to enjoy. At least until you rearrange your speakers.


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that is exactly what I have done for all my runs I have read all the posts that are linked to on the first page about arc. I have a summary of cut and pastes that may be useful and could be edited and placed on the first page but I am not the guy qualified to edit it. If anyone wants them let me know.
> 
> 
> My SPL1000 is not accurate it is from the Source (Canada's radio shack) and is digital, we can not get the one from radio shack in Canada. I approximated this run by used 75/85 * 75 = 66 DB for my setting and they appear to be around the 75 range, Bob does say a ball park is what you are looking for, not too sure if these are close enough.
> 
> 
> My sub sounds a lot better now, thanks guys. It now indicates 105 in the target but still gets set to 60. My centre will be moving up 16" with my new stand and I will have more flexibility on my front positions. It now sounds true amazing and any better would be a bonus. Happy camper here.
> 
> 
> Regards



There is a place where you can get the analog version of the RS meter here in Canada but it escapes me at the moment. At a quiet moment it's sure to come back to me. BTW, your charts look excellent. This should sound fantastic.

John


Just found it. That's where I got mine.

http://www.sonicboomaudio.com/rs-ana...9ab8934c3e01bb


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20349750
> 
> 
> I would update the FW first, for it will wipe out all flash data, including ARCs filter coefficients. After a successful FW uplaod, then perform ARC as needed.



Yes, thanks. It has been a while since I did an upgrade (i.e. everything has been working). Mostly I'm doing this because the furniture in my listening room has changed and I have a new amp.


I was quite pleased that my settings survived. Now onto ARC 3. Fortunately there is a veritable plethora of information here on that topic.


----------



## m4bama

The cable used for ARC R32 cable ; can it be used for firmware updates as well.


----------



## Texas steve

yes











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *m4bama* /forum/post/20357930
> 
> 
> The cable used for ARC R32 cable ; can it be used for firmware updates as well.


----------



## m4bama

thank you .


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20356598
> 
> 
> Seems that way from those tests I did, though I haven't tested DTS-HDMA 5.1 tracks for this.
> 
> 
> 
> They're on the AIX Audio Calibration Disc, same disc I used for all the tests except those War of the World ones.
> 
> 
> 
> that lines up with what I found on War of the Worlds, ie 3dB increase when bitstreaming. Have you found additional discrepancies when compared to DVD?
> 
> 
> I found DTS-HDMA 5.1 3dB higher when decoded in the anthem, plus 3dB higher when using PLIIx(strange as all other testing seemed to suggest it only affected LPCM), plus another 3-4dB higher when compared to DVD's DD or DTS(no idea what's causing this one, may be an issue with the D2v or could be the mixers for the BD fiddled with the levels).........that's a total of 9-10dB higher than DVD tracks when bit streamed to the D2v.
> 
> 
> I don't have access to the beta firmware so haven't been able to test for these issues, and was hoping to wait until then to go through it again. Hopefully something is/has been done to sort out these issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Just noticed this, so you have found other discrepancies. Are you using PLIIx?
> 
> 
> Cheers



I have made som more measurements, on Toy story 3. This is when the i have turn the front up and the center down. But that Will not make Any difference. What i am interresded in id there difference.....pcm vs bitstream.


Oppo decoding DTS hd 7.1. Anthem decoding DTS hd 7.1


Front 60 dB Center 61 dB. Front 60 dB Center 61 dB


Perfect


Oppo decoding DTS hd 5.1. Anthem decoding DTS hd 5.1


Front 60 dB. Center 58 dB. Front 62 dB. Center 60 dB


Anthem running 2 dB to hot.

The front speaker issue is also in play when it is DTS hd 5.1


It seams like there is a diference in the mix to. But the results say it All.

Frontspeakers is down by 3 dB both on DTS hd 5.1 and 7.1

DTS hd 5.1 runs 2 dB hot. Maby its 3 dB......my radio shack is analog, so its hard to read the readings.

I was right







there both have the same issue + DTS hd 5.1 is running to hot


----------



## SimonNo10

I have noticed on certain BD's that the volume is quite different in volume but that can be due to it's mastering. But you mentioned Toy Story 3 and I found that track (DTS Master Audio) to be on the low side and I have to have the main volume on the D2v at around -14 to enjoy it. Most DTS HD-MA tracks I play back at around -18 to -16 like Hulk (Edward Norton) which is a loud track. I watched The Socerer's Apprentice recently (DTS HD-MA) and that is one loud disc. I hate the differences in Blu-Rays when it comes to their volumes, as it can catch you off guard if it's the first time your watching it. I tend to be careful and play them at around -17db and watch the first 5-10mins before deciding wether to turn it up or down. I'm aware that the LFE can be on the hot side on some discs but overall volume differences can be annoying.


Thanks guys for taking the time with the testing and hopefully Anthem will take this more seriously and address it with a firmware update. It's been awhile since Macca reported this to them.


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Shayne2* 
Yes that is exactly what I have done for all my runs I have read all the posts that are linked to on the first page about arc. I have a summary of cut and pastes that may be useful and could be edited and placed on the first page but I am not the guy qualified to edit it. If anyone wants them let me know.


My SPL1000 is not accurate it is from the Source (Canada's radio shack) and is digital, we can not get the one from radio shack in Canada. I approximated this run by used 75/85 * 75 = 66 DB for my setting and they appear to be around the 75 range, Bob does say a ball park is what you are looking for, not too sure if these are close enough.


My sub sounds a lot better now, thanks guys. *It now indicates 105 in the target but still gets set to 60.* My centre will be moving up 16" with my new stand and I will have more flexibility on my front positions. It now sounds true amazing and any better would be a bonus. Happy camper here.


Regards
Congrats Shayne ...the sub response looks way better now. If you feel up to it, see if you can move it around to remove that dip at 100Hz or so. (Also don't forget to set your sub high pass setting to Flat for the music configuration as well).


The 105Hz in the targets means that ARC has corrected your sub frequncy response up to 106Hz and left it uncorrected after that. The low cut off, I believe is due to the fact that your mains are very capable all the way down to 30Hz or so but the sub has been relegated to take over those frequencies as well. Have you tried to make your music configuration a 2.1 setup since your mains are full range? What you have now should sound really good, imo


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by *p.las* 
I have made som more measurements, on Toy story 3. This is when the i have turn the front up and the center down. But that Will not make Any difference. What i am interresded in id there difference.....pcm vs bitstream.


Oppo decoding DTS hd 7.1. Anthem decoding DTS hd 7.1


Front 60 dB Center 61 dB. Front 60 dB Center 61 dB


Perfect


Oppo decoding DTS hd 5.1. Anthem decoding DTS hd 5.1


Front 60 dB. Center 58 dB. Front 62 dB. Center 60 dB


Anthem running 2 dB to hot.

The front speaker issue is also in play when it is DTS hd 5.1


It seams like there is a diference in the mix to. But the results say it All.

Frontspeakers is down by 3 dB both on DTS hd 5.1 and 7.1

DTS hd 5.1 runs 2 dB hot. Maby its 3 dB......my radio shack is analog, so its hard to read the readings.

I was right







there both have the same issue + DTS hd 5.1 is running to hot
P.LAS & MACCA350, is Anthem aware of your findings? They will not act just because someone found bugs on this forum. They need to be in their database for corrective actions to occur.


----------



## p.las

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke* 
P.LAS & MACCA350, is Anthem aware of your findings? They will not act just because someone found bugs on this forum. They need to be in their database for corrective actions to occur.
yes....macca350 have send his finding for about a half a year a goo. and i have done it for about a month a goo. i also have send them a email two days a goo, after finding the new issue regarding dts hd 5.1 running to hot.


----------



## p.las

Quote:

Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* 
I have noticed on certain BD's that the volume is quite different in volume but that can be due to it's mastering. But you mentioned Toy Story 3 and I found that track (DTS Master Audio) to be on the low side and I have to have the main volume on the D2v at around -14 to enjoy it. Most DTS HD-MA tracks I play back at around -18 to -16 like Hulk (Edward Norton) which is a loud track. I watched The Socerer's Apprentice recently (DTS HD-MA) and that is one loud disc. I hate the differences in Blu-Rays when it comes to their volumes, as it can catch you off guard if it's the first time your watching it. I tend to be careful and play them at around -17db and watch the first 5-10mins before deciding wether to turn it up or down. I'm aware that the LFE can be on the hot side on some discs but overall volume differences can be annoying.


Thanks guys for taking the time with the testing and hopefully Anthem will take this more seriously and address it with a firmware update. It's been awhile since Macca reported this to them.
funny... i think that toy story 3 is pretty loud . what audio whas it? dts hd 5.1 ore 7.1........dts hd is 5.1 is a litlle bit louder than the 7.1. . Maby the danish version is different.....most likley.

and you right. many bd movies is vere loud. i hav try to compare Seven and Hostage on bd vs dvd, and the audio track is way higher than the dvd track. i do think that's the mix....but why?.


----------



## MACCA350

Quote:

Originally Posted by *p.las* 
I have made som more measurements, on Toy story 3. This is when the i have turn the front up and the center down. But that Will not make Any difference. What i am interresded in id there difference.....pcm vs bitstream.


Oppo decoding DTS hd 7.1. Anthem decoding DTS hd 7.1


Front 60 dB Center 61 dB. Front 60 dB Center 61 dB


Perfect


Oppo decoding DTS hd 5.1. Anthem decoding DTS hd 5.1


Front 60 dB. Center 58 dB. Front 62 dB. Center 60 dB


Anthem running 2 dB to hot.

The front speaker issue is also in play when it is DTS hd 5.1


It seams like there is a diference in the mix to. But the results say it All.

Frontspeakers is down by 3 dB both on DTS hd 5.1 and 7.1

DTS hd 5.1 runs 2 dB hot. Maby its 3 dB......my radio shack is analog, so its hard to read the readings.

I was right







there both have the same issue + DTS hd 5.1 is running to hot
Damn, I'm going to have to get my kit out again aren't I









Thanks for taking the time to run some tests. Now there's more evidence here that there is an increase across the board when the D2v is decoding DTS-HDMA 5.1, this is one thing that Anthem were looking for, more evidence of customers having an issue with this.


You have also shown there is an issue with the LR level drop on DTS-HDMA 5.1 tracks. Wether this is across the board I'm not sure as you can see in my tests one 7.1 track was affected but another wasn't.

I believe it has something to do with DTS-HDMA's ability to remap channel info into various speaker configurations . This is further suggested by the note I made on the affected track "*SL/SR test tone: some signal is also output from L/R speakers but the reverse is not true", it's as if the L/R channel has been reduced 3dB to accommodate mixing of surround channel info into L/R channels. At some stage I'll retest the track that didn't show this issue just to be sure, but it may be that this remapping may only affect certain tracks that have been authored in such a way to trigger this possible remapping in the decoder.

Wether this is an issue with the decoder not working properly or incorrect encoding settings or Anthem software not applying level adjustments correctly I'm not sure but it's definitely something they need to look into. Maybe the Anthem is working correctly with regard to this issue and it's the studios accidentally engaging incorrect encoder settings when mastering the MA track.


I had hoped I was done with testing and had given Anthem enough information to warrant them performing thorough testing themselves to ensure proper operation.


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350

Quote:

Originally Posted by *p.las* 
yes....macca350 have send his finding for about a half a year a goo. and i have done it for about a month a goo. i also have send them a email two days a goo, after finding the new issue regarding dts hd 5.1 running to hot.
As I recall Bob also informed Anthem of the issues raised last year.


Cheers


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20361903
> 
> 
> As I recall Bob also informed Anthem of the issues raised last year.
> 
> 
> Cheers



i also have the AIX test disc. i will try to check the speaker level chapter, and measure.

But i was sure that there was no dts hd track in that chapter. maby it's just DTS







i find out to night.

and again...why does there have to be so big difference en level betuine dvd and bd.......i am shure it's the mastering


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20361894
> 
> 
> Damn, I'm going to have to get my kit out again aren't I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to run some tests. Now there's more evidence here that there is an increase across the board when the D2v is decoding DTS-HDMA 5.1, this is one thing that Anthem were looking for, more evidence of customers having an issue with this.
> 
> 
> You have also shown there is an issue with the LR level drop on DTS-HDMA 5.1 tracks. Wether this is across the board I'm not sure as you can see in my tests one 7.1 track was affected but another wasn't.
> 
> I believe it has something to do with DTS-HDMA's ability to remap channel info into various speaker configurations . This is further suggested by the note I made on the affected track "*SL/SR test tone: some signal is also output from L/R speakers but the reverse is not true", it's as if the L/R channel has been reduced 3dB to accommodate mixing of surround channel info into L/R channels. At some stage I'll retest the track that didn't show this issue just to be sure, but it may be that this remapping may only affect certain tracks that have been authored in such a way to trigger this possible remapping in the decoder.
> 
> Wether this is an issue with the decoder not working properly or incorrect encoding settings or Anthem software not applying level adjustments correctly I'm not sure but it's definitely something they need to look into. Maybe the Anthem is working correctly with regard to this issue and it's the studios accidentally engaging incorrect encoder settings when mastering the MA track.
> but why have oppo bdp 83 not that issue?
> 
> I had hoped I was done with testing and had given Anthem enough information to warrant them performing thorough testing themselves to ensure proper operation.
> 
> 
> Cheers



i


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20362244
> 
> 
> but why have oppo bdp 83 not that issue?



Yeah, good point, I just wouldn't write off a combination of issues at play at this stage.


Maybe the OPPO is ignoring the channel mapping(or whatever it's called) info in the MA metadata and the D2v isn't, I'm not sure but the fact the surrounds are being mixed into the fronts would suggest this has something to do with it.


You can try this by playing the surround tones in that 7.1 MA AIX channel identification test, you'll hear the surround tones being output by the respective LR channel also but at a far lower level.


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20362237
> 
> 
> i also have the AIX test disc. i will try to check the speaker level chapter, and measure.
> 
> But i was sure that there was no dts hd track in that chapter. maby it's just DTS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i find out to night.
> 
> and again...why does there have to be so big difference en level betuine dvd and bd.......i am shure it's the mastering



Actually you're right, I just checked and there is no DTS-HDMA 7.1 track in the "Speaker Balance" section, it's actually an LPCM 7.1 track........not sure how I let that one through to the keeper







thanks for pointing that out










So this issue may very well occur on all MA tracks, though my last post still stands as there is some kind of channel mixing going on with(at least 7.1) DTS-HDMA tracks.


Cheers


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20362261
> 
> 
> Yeah, good point, I just wouldn't write off a combination of issues at play at this stage.
> 
> 
> Maybe the OPPO is ignoring the channel mapping(or whatever it's called) info in the MA metadata and the D2v isn't, I'm not sure but the fact the surrounds are being mixed into the fronts would suggest this has something to do with it.
> 
> 
> You can try this by playing the surround tones in that 7.1 MA AIX channel identification test, you'll hear the surround tones being output by the respective LR channel also but at a far lower level.
> 
> 
> Cheers



that sound weard. this is when you play 7.1 on a 5.1 setup?


there is so many things that can goo wrong


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20362298
> 
> 
> that sound weard. this is when you play 7.1 on a 5.1 setup?
> 
> 
> there is so many things that can goo wrong



No, this is when playing the AIX DTS-HDMA 7.1 tones on a 7.1 setup. I don't have any DTS-HDMA 5.1 test tones to check if it has the same issue, but since you've found the same 3dB drop in the LR channels of 5.1 it may.


Cheers


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20362354
> 
> 
> No, this is when playing the AIX DTS-HDMA 7.1 tones on a 7.1 setup. I don't have any DTS-HDMA 5.1 test tones to check if it has the same issue, but since you've found the same 3dB drop in the LR channels of 5.1 it may.
> 
> 
> Cheers



you are right.

check my note on the oppo dekoding 5.1 vs 7.1.

center reads the same , but the front have a higher output on 7.1 vs 5.1.......it coud be the same issue as you deskrive. i have tested it whit the center unplugged. i am not using any modes-PLIIX etc


edit: if that is right, it semes like its a MA 7.1 issue


----------



## dmusoke

P.las & Macca:


What did Anthem say when you presented your findings to them? The reason i ask is that [email protected] was here on the forum a while ago and basically said there are no outstanding issues that they know of with the D2v and 50v.


Is it possible to be DTS or Dolby certified and yet have these problems? Aren't these basic level differences easily flagged as part of the certification process?


----------



## AVfile

Reminder:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20246836
> 
> 
> I found a way to do an objective test, using the Toy Story 3 Blu-ray "setup" menu. There is a DTS HR 7.1 speaker level test. Results:
> 
> 
> L/R: -2 dB
> 
> C: 0 dB
> 
> LS/RS: 0 dB
> 
> LB/RB: +2 dB
> 
> 
> There is also a DD 5.1 EX speaker level test. Results are similar but without the L/R drop. I think the best *workaround* for now is to raise the L/R channels by 2 dB (or whatever you need) when playing DTS HD. I can live with the surround back channels being a little louder (that could be my room EQ) but you can lower those too by pressing the SUR-REAR button twice, if you want.
> 
> 
> Note: to raise only the L/R channels in the Anthem you have to increase the FRONT trim and then decrease the CENTRE trim by the same amount.
> 
> 
> Fortunately these trims are only stored for the current format (DTS HD) so it won't screw up PCM, Dolby or regular DTS modes. You should only have to do this once.



While we have presented workarounds, I don't see how anyone but Anthem can truly fix the issue.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20367212
> 
> 
> P.las & Macca:
> 
> 
> What did Anthem say when you presented your findings to them? The reason i ask is that [email protected] was here on the forum a while ago and basically said there are no outstanding issues that they know of with the D2v and 50v.
> 
> 
> Is it possible to be DTS or Dolby certified and yet have these problems? Aren't these basic level differences easily flagged as part of the certification process?



Last I heard they were digesting the info, I haven't had any feedback since Oct last year. They did mention that it did pass the Dolby, DTS and THX licence testing. But I don't know wether such testing would pick up these issues or whether later firmware updates have caused the issues.


All I know is these issues are present in firmware v2.10


Afaik firmware updates don't need to be retested by Dolby, DTS, THX, etc to retain their license or ensure they comply with their standards.


Cheers


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20367302
> 
> 
> Last I heard they were digesting the info, I haven't had any feedback since Oct last year. They did mention that it did pass the Dolby, DTS and THX licence testing. But I don't know wether such testing would pick up these issues or whether later firmware updates have caused the issues.
> 
> 
> All I know is these issues are present in firmware v2.10
> 
> 
> Afaik firmware updates don't need to be retested by Dolby, DTS, THX, etc to retain their license or ensure they comply with their standards.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Well, if October was the last you heard from them, then its likely been dropped. Please bug them regularly (month?) if you can. We all benefit by these kinds of fixes







.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20367313
> 
> 
> Well, if October was the last you heard from them, then its likely been dropped. Please bug them regularly (month?) if you can. We all benefit by these kinds of fixes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



the first time i mailed them was 1 april this year. Andrew from anthem said that there will look into it.


quote from the email.


Peter,


I have sent this to engineering for analysis to see what they can determine.



Best

Regards,


Andrew Cirurgiao

Technical Support


I also link the finding that Macca find last year.


the new issue dts hd 5.1 running to hot, i also have mailed to them....25 april.


no fedback yet


----------



## J. FRICANO

Hello All,

Thinking of replacing an Audio Alchemy DDS Pro transport (13 Years Old) with a PS Audio Perfect Wave Transport. I will be using the ABS/EBU Digital out into the D2. Any input as to whether this might be an improvement to my current set up? Are the DACs in the D2 capable of realizing the benefit of the memory transport's asynchronus clock output? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, John.

P.S. Next step may be the PS DAC but then the analog outs would be redigitized by the D2 to take advantage of ARC....Thoughts???? Thanks.


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *J. FRICANO* /forum/post/20369176
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> Thinking of replacing an Audio Alchemy DDS Pro transport (13 Years Old) with a PS Audio Perfect Wave Transport. I will be using the ABS/EBU Digital out into the D2. Any input as to whether this might be an improvement to my current set up? Are the DACs in the D2 capable of realizing the benefit of the memory transport's asynchronus clock output? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, John.
> 
> P.S. Next step may be the PS DAC but then the analog outs would be redigitized by the D2 to take advantage of ARC....Thoughts???? Thanks.



I happen to have a PSA PWT/PWD and love it, but I don't have it connected to my AV50. I have it connected to a PSA GCA-250 control amp in HT Bypass. This allows me to not even have my Anthem on when I am listening to high res 2 channel music.


I do not believe that the PWT has a clock out signal, nor does the D2v have a clock in signal, so I don't know what benefit you will see there.


To my ears, my 2 channel HT Bypass rig sounds better in this pure analogue mode than running 2 channels into my AVM50 and applying ARC.


I do love ARC for multi-channel, but high res 2 channel is better coming from the PWD directly into my amp.


Please note that opinions will vary significantly and equipment and room treatment can make a big difference in the ability to like the audio without ARC...



Ed


----------



## J. FRICANO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/20369777
> 
> 
> I happen to have a PSA PWT/PWD and love it, but I don't have it connected to my AV50. I have it connected to a PSA GCA-250 control amp in HT Bypass. This allows me to not even have my Anthem on when I am listening to high res 2 channel music.
> 
> 
> I do not believe that the PWT has a clock out signal, nor does the D2v have a clock in signal, so I don't know what benefit you will see there.
> 
> 
> To my ears, my 2 channel HT Bypass rig sounds better in this pure analogue mode than running 2 channels into my AVM50 and applying ARC.
> 
> 
> I do love ARC for multi-channel, but high res 2 channel is better coming from the PWD directly into my amp.
> 
> 
> Please note that opinions will vary significantly and equipment and room treatment can make a big difference in the ability to like the audio without ARC..
> 
> 
> Ed



Thank you very much Ed, John.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20367378
> 
> 
> the first time i mailed them was 1 april this year. Andrew from anthem said that there will look into it.
> 
> 
> quote from the email.
> 
> 
> Peter,
> 
> 
> I have sent this to engineering for analysis to see what they can determine.
> 
> 
> 
> Best
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> Andrew Cirurgiao
> 
> Technical Support
> 
> 
> I also link the finding that Macca find last year.
> 
> 
> the new issue dts hd 5.1 running to hot, i also have mailed to them....25 april.
> 
> 
> no fedback yet



Thanks Peter ....keep up the good work!


----------



## Screamingelvises

I am about to run arc again. I have a couple of silly questions.


I have my mains toed (angled) in to the sweet spot right where I sit in the middle seat of the couch, but the arc has you measure each sitting location (3 on couch, then 1 each on either side of the couch, which is hardly ever used and a little outside of the normal viewing environment, but I previously tested arc with them).


Should I


1.) un-toe the main speakers (i.e. have them un-angled)?

2.) eliminate the other 2 non-normal viewing angles?



Also, If I want to make music 2.1 or lower my main crossovers, do I do it in the arc program via my computer, or edit in the avm50 set up menu itself?


Thanks,

Mark


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Screamingelvises* /forum/post/20374667
> 
> 
> I am about to run arc again. I have a couple of silly questions.
> 
> 
> I have my mains toed (angled) in to the sweet spot right where I sit in the middle seat of the couch, but the arc has you measure each sitting location (3 on couch, then 1 each on either side of the couch, which is hardly ever used and a little outside of the normal viewing environment, but I previously tested arc with them).
> 
> 
> Should I
> 
> 
> 1.) un-toe the main speakers (i.e. have them un-angled)?
> 
> 2.) eliminate the other 2 non-normal viewing angles?
> 
> 
> 
> Also, If I want to make music 2.1 or lower my main crossovers, do I do it in the arc program via my computer, or edit in the avm50 set up menu itself?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark



The toe-in should be set while listening to a 2.0 Stereo source with EQ in the AVM50 for the source set to off. Listen for the best stereo imaging and good sound stage in stereo. It does not take much toe-in so don't get carried away..


You have to follow the ARC instructions and provide at least 5 listening positions separated by the distance they specify.

The reason for the multiple locations is not to imitate any listener postion.

Arc is measuring your whole room response and using the multiple microphone locations to listen to the different frequencies and then adjust itself.


Why do you want to override the Arc crossover settings ?

They are usually pretty accurate. If you must tweak and change, then do it inside the AVM 50 as the targets settings you see in side ARC are not the crossovers.


Quote from ARC target :

_"Response cutoffs are not crossover frequencies although the behavior and purpose is similar. Response cutoffs are part of equalization, but not necessarily bass redirection, and are meant to not stress speakers at frequency extremes. Crossover frequencies are uploaded to the unit’s bass manager during the upload procedure and are not necessarily the same as the response cutoff selected here. "


"Speakers marked as full range will have no bass redirection by the unit’s bass manager. If there is no subwoofer selected (i.e.: Subwoofer cutoff is set to ‘No Speaker’) then the fronts are forced to be full range. If you are planning on customizing any of these settings the auto detected settings are an excellent starting place."_


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20374896
> 
> 
> The toe-in should be set while listening to a 2.0 Stereo source with EQ in the AVM50 for the source set to off. Listen for the best stereo imaging and good sound stage in stereo. It does not take much toe-in so don't get carried away..
> 
> 
> You have to follow the ARC instructions and provide at least 5 listening positions separated by the distance they specify.
> 
> The reason for the multiple locations is not to imitate any listener postion.
> 
> Arc is measuring your whole room response and using the multiple microphone locations to listen to the different frequencies and then adjust itself.
> 
> 
> Why do you want to override the Arc crossover settings ?
> 
> They are usually pretty accurate. If you must tweak and change, then do it inside the AVM 50 as the targets settings you see in side ARC are not the crossovers.
> 
> 
> Quote from ARC target :
> 
> _"Response cutoffs are not crossover frequencies although the behavior and purpose is similar. Response cutoffs are part of equalization, but not necessarily bass redirection, and are meant to not stress speakers at frequency extremes. Crossover frequencies are uploaded to the unit's bass manager during the upload procedure and are not necessarily the same as the response cutoff selected here. "
> 
> 
> "Speakers marked as full range will have no bass redirection by the unit's bass manager. If there is no subwoofer selected (i.e.: Subwoofer cutoff is set to No Speaker') then the fronts are forced to be full range. If you are planning on customizing any of these settings the auto detected settings are an excellent starting place."_



If you change the crossovers (I wouldn't at all) and you do it in the AVM50 you break ARC. I would change them in ARC. For all speakers except the sub the crossover and cutoff should be the same.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/20375104
> 
> 
> If you change the crossovers (I wouldn't at all) and you do it in the AVM50 you break ARC. I would change them in ARC. For all speakers except the sub the crossover and cutoff should be the same.



Yes indeed ... do it inside ARC and not the 50v.


----------



## Screamingelvises

When listening music, going from Stereo direct to arc on I noticed my mains were missing a little bottom end (that is all), and to me it sounded better when arc wasn't cutting them off. My other reasoning was if I want to turn the subs' levels down or up etc.


The rest makes sense now , which is why I figured I would ask about the toe-in.


As always..... Thank you!


I will run ARC again soon and submit my results.


Mark


----------



## oyvindmo

After hearing wondrous things about ARC, I am considering an AVM50 or D2V.


I will start out with a stereo-only setup, but will probably extend it to a "4.0" system. In either case, a sub is _probably_ not in my future. Would ARC still be useful to me, in helping compensate for a difficult-shaped room?


Thanks for any help,

- Oyvind M


----------



## dschamis

Any updates on a D3 or the like? Apologies if it has been discussed recently.


David


----------



## AVfile

No, it's not in the cards. Nick just stated a few pages back that current platforms are upgradeable and "refuse to die". Other companies might add 3D and call it a new line, but for Anthem it will be a modular upgrade.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oyvindmo* /forum/post/20382873
> 
> 
> After hearing wondrous things about ARC, I am considering an AVM50 or D2V.
> 
> 
> I will start out with a stereo-only setup, but will probably extend it to a "4.0" system. In either case, a sub is _probably_ not in my future. Would ARC still be useful to me, in helping compensate for a difficult-shaped room?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help,
> 
> - Oyvind M



Yes it will. First get some room treatments if possible to tame those nasty nulls and resonances. Not too many to deadend the room ofcourse. The perform ARC and all will be well.


You aren't getting a sub because.....?


----------



## oyvindmo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20383573
> 
> 
> Yes it will. First get some room treatments if possible to tame those nasty nulls and resonances. Not too many to deadend the room ofcourse. The perform ARC and all will be well.



Thanks. My impression is that digital room correction is mostly effective at lower frequencies. How high frequencies is ARC usually used for correcting?



> Quote:
> You aren't getting a sub because.....?



Good question. I don't really have a good answer, though







Partly it's about "WAF" -- low frequency sound travels more distinctly to the living room in the floor above. Also there is limited placement freedom in my room, and since sub placement seems to be very important I may not have a good spot for it at all. Lastly, I usually listen at relatively low volume levels, where the "feel" of low frequencies maybe would be less effective.


Feel free to try to convert me, though I guess that belongs in a different thread.










- Oyvind


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oyvindmo* /forum/post/20384672
> 
> 
> Thanks. My impression is that digital room correction is mostly effective at lower frequencies. How high frequencies is ARC usually used for correcting?
> 
> The default and recommended target frequency is 5KHz. The minimum is 200Hz but you can change the default and have ARC correct up to 20kHz.
> 
> 
> Good question. I don't really have a good answer, though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Partly it's about "WAF" -- low frequency sound travels more distinctly to the living room in the floor above. Also there is limited placement freedom in my room, and since sub placement seems to be very important I may not have a good spot for it at all. Lastly, I usually listen at relatively low volume levels, where the "feel" of low frequencies maybe would be less effective.
> 
> 
> Feel free to try to convert me, though I guess that belongs in a different thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having a sub doesn't mean things have to be loud. Low level listening to a balanced set of 5.1 or 7.1 is awesome. Unless your front mains are uniquely full range and capable of producing infra-sonic frequencies at low distortion levels, then you'll need a sub.
> 
> 
> There are many subs that can fit any size and room decor. I use two Sunfire subs and they are small, musical and very very potent in the LFE department. WAF is extremely high. That's the whole reason Bob Carver designed these subs...his wife gave him an eviction notice of all his gear unless it appeared hidden and matched their living room decor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> - Oyvind



See my comments above...


----------



## oyvindmo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20386313
> 
> 
> The default and recommended target frequency is 5KHz. The minimum is 200Hz but you can change the default and have ARC correct up to 20kHz.



That seems quite versatile and powerful. Thanks for the info!


Also thanks for trying to sell me on getting a sub







I'll post some more questions about that in a more suitable sub-forum (no pun intended) and see where it takes me.


Oh, and for the record: Now that I have >3 posts, here's a sketch of my difficult room, which I hope ARC can help me with:

http://www.moll.no/kjellerstue/utkast2.jpg


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oyvindmo* /forum/post/20386915
> 
> 
> That seems quite versatile and powerful. Thanks for the info!
> 
> 
> Also thanks for trying to sell me on getting a sub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post some more questions about that in a more suitable sub-forum (no pun intended) and see where it takes me.
> 
> 
> Oh, and for the record: Now that I have >3 posts, here's a sketch of my difficult room, which I hope ARC can help me with:
> 
> http://www.moll.no/kjellerstue/utkast2.jpg



Plenty of ROOM for a SUB.


I hope your Pinball Game Collection is GOOD


----------



## oyvindmo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20387010
> 
> 
> Plenty of ROOM for a SUB.



Yeah, I'm almost starting to be swayed by those who say I should get _two_ subs. From zero to two in just a couple of postings -- this place is dangerous.



> Quote:
> I hope your Pinball Game Collection is GOOD



Pinball is just as "important" to me as the A/V system, so yeah, I like it.







If you're into pinball games, they are WH2O, LOTR, AFM, Shadow, WCS94, CftBL and SC (in various states of playability vs. restoration).



To keep this post at least slightly on-topic: I'm currently also wondering if I should go for AVM50v + Oppo BDP-93, or if I should go the extra mile and get D2v and BDP-95. If anyone has experience with comparing these, I'd be happy to read some listening notes.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oyvindmo* /forum/post/20404507
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'm almost starting to be swayed by those who say I should get _two_ subs. From zero to two in just a couple of postings -- this place is dangerous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pinball is just as "important" to me as the A/V system, so yeah, I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're into pinball games, they are WH2O, LOTR, AFM, Shadow, WCS94, CftBL and SC (in various states of playability vs. restoration).
> 
> 
> 
> To keep this post at least slightly on-topic: I'm currently also wondering if I should go for AVM50v + Oppo BDP-93, or if I should go the extra mile and get D2v and BDP-95. If anyone has experience with comparing these, I'd be happy to read some listening notes.



Every movie has low Frequencies - you need at least one SUB

to enjoy the movie How would you play pinball WITHOUT the Balls.


Speaking of Pinball - I have attached a couple of pictures.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oyvindmo* /forum/post/20404507
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'm almost starting to be swayed by those who say I should get _two_ subs. From zero to two in just a couple of postings -- this place is dangerous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pinball is just as "important" to me as the A/V system, so yeah, I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're into pinball games, they are WH2O, LOTR, AFM, Shadow, WCS94, CftBL and SC (in various states of playability vs. restoration).
> 
> 
> 
> To keep this post at least slightly on-topic: I'm currently also wondering if I should go for AVM50v + Oppo BDP-93, or if I should go the extra mile and get D2v and BDP-95. If anyone has experience with comparing these, I'd be happy to read some listening notes.



I had a 50v for more than a year. Definately a great piece of gear but i then upgraded to a D2v four months ago as ai listen to alot of analog sources and need the best in A/D conversion possible. Please refer to this posts as to the differences between the 50v and D2v:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=19470 

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=17883 


I still have an Oppo 83SE and not a BDP93/95 but from what Oppo and others say, the 95 is better sounding than the 83SE, which was their top of the line player and was well reviewed by many publications.

Have fun ....


----------



## slots1

Love my D2v. But 10 feet away is the Creature from the Black Lagoon pinball machine.

Also, with a vintage poster of it.


----------



## ehlarson

Hi -


I am considering purchasing some Theta Digital Enterprise monoblocks to power my speakers. The only fly in the ointment seems to be that these amps don't support a continuous 12V trigger to come out of standby mode; they need a pulse instead. Converting them to respond to a continuous voltage would be a factory mod.


Is there any way to get the D2V to issue a pulse instead of a continuous output? If not does anyone know of a gizmo that would act as an adapter between these two voltage modes?


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20405471
> 
> 
> I had a 50v for more than a year. Definately a great piece of gear but i then upgraded to a D2v four months ago as ai listen to alot of analog sources and need the best in A/D conversion possible. Please refer to this posts as to the differences between the 50v and D2v:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=19470
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=17883
> 
> 
> I still have an Oppo 83SE and not a BDP93/95 but from what Oppo and others say, the 95 is better sounding than the 83SE, which was their top of the line player and was well reviewed by many publications.
> 
> Have fun ....



The thing that gives me pause regarding the 93/95 is that it seems the firmware is still in beta, and DVD upconversion is not up to par with the BDP-83 (yet?). Since I have a large DVD collection with many titles not available in BD, DVD upconversion is very important to me.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20406526
> 
> 
> Hi -
> 
> 
> I am considering purchasing some Theta Digital Enterprise monoblocks to power my speakers. The only fly in the ointment seems to be that these amps don't support a continuous 12V trigger to come out of standby mode; they need a pulse instead. Converting them to respond to a continuous voltage would be a factory mod.
> 
> 
> Is there any way to get the D2V to issue a pulse instead of a continuous output? If not does anyone know of a gizmo that would act as an adapter between these two voltage modes?



As a Man from NJ - Support your local Companies.

Get a CRESTRON Control system and control your life


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20406602
> 
> 
> As a Man from NJ - Support your local Companies.
> 
> Get a CRESTRON Control system and control your life



It's much more likely that I'd do something with iRule.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20406535
> 
> 
> The thing that gives me pause regarding the 93/95 is that it seems the firmware is still in beta, and DVD upconversion is not up to par with the BDP-83 (yet?). Since I have a large DVD collection with many titles not available in BD, DVD upconversion is very important to me.



To be fair, they have an official version that was released late march-early april. Its this new beta that solves many issues of the official one(including better upscaling of DVDs, faster access for external drives, etc) but also introduces new issues for some. And the posters this affects are very vocal about it!


As for the DVD upscaling comparison with the 83, i believe the camp is split on this one. As mentioned above, this new beta noticeably improves on this feature alot and quite a few posters have mentioned it as well.


Oppo is new to the Qdeo chipset and so growing pains are to be expected though theirs have been suprisingly few and far between. Future upscaling enhancements are coming via software for sure as the beta-testers always remind us.


----------



## k elone

I am looking at purchasing a used Anthem AVM 50 in the near future. Consequently, I have a couple of questions about the unit.


Can ARC-1 be added to the original Anthem AVM 50? If so, are there any restrictions?


Would I be able to obtain Dolby True/DTS Master using the AVM50 with the blu-ray player doing the processing and sending the signal to the AVM 50 using HDMI? I thought I read that somewhere on the forum, but the dealer informed me that I would only be able to obtain these surround formats by using five or seven analog cables.


Thanks In Advance For Any & All Information Provided...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *k elone* /forum/post/20407308
> 
> 
> I am looking at purchasing a used Anthem AVM 50 in the near future. Consequently, I have a couple of questions about the unit.
> 
> 
> Can ARC-1 be added to the original Anthem AVM 50? If so, are there any restrictions?
> 
> Yes for ARC, No for restrictions
> 
> 
> Would I be able to obtain Dolby True/DTS Master using the AVM50 with the blu-ray player doing the processing and sending the signal to the AVM 50 using HDMI? I thought I read that somewhere on the forum, but the dealer informed me that I would only be able to obtain these surround formats by using five or seven analog cables.
> 
> No intrinsic decoding of hidef codecs. Just set your source player to decode them internally by setting its audio output format to LPCM. No difference in audio quality whether the decoding it at the source or not.
> 
> 
> Thanks In Advance For Any & All Information Provided...



See my answers above...


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *k elone* /forum/post/20407308
> 
> 
> I am looking at purchasing a used Anthem AVM 50 in the near future. Consequently, I have a couple of questions about the unit.
> 
> 
> Can ARC-1 be added to the original Anthem AVM 50? If so, are there any restrictions?
> 
> 
> Would I be able to obtain Dolby True/DTS Master using the AVM50 with the blu-ray player doing the processing and sending the signal to the AVM 50 using HDMI? I thought I read that somewhere on the forum, but the dealer informed me that I would only be able to obtain these surround formats by using five or seven analog cables.
> 
> 
> Thanks In Advance For Any & All Information Provided...



For ARC there is a hardware upgrade involved also so it's a little more expensive. I think it was about $800. I think some have installed it themselves but it was a recommended dealer install so they may change a bit also.


----------



## dmusoke

 http://www.avforums.com/review/Anthe...er-Review.html


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20406535
> 
> 
> ........... and DVD upconversion is not up to par with the BDP-83 (yet?). Since I have a large DVD collection with many titles not available in BD, DVD upconversion is very important to me.



Seems the Gen 2 Qdeo/Marvell processor used in the 93 is not doing as good as the HQV chip used in the 83, especially in the compression artifacts area.


Doug Blackburn's review of the 93 in the WSR Issue 156 is quite informative with regard to DVD upconversion.


Ben


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/20408627
> 
> 
> Seems the Gen 2 Qdeo/Marvell processor used in the 93 is not doing as good as the HQV chip used in the 83, especially in the compression artifacts area.
> 
> 
> Doug Blackburn's review of the 93 in the WSR Issue 156 is quite informative with regard to DVD upconversion.
> 
> 
> Ben



83/83SE use the ABS201x series of chips from Anchor Bay Technologies and not HQV Realta chipset.


----------



## greyflag

No problem using HDMI for sending decoded hi-res codecs from your player. I have a AVM50 with the ARC upgrade. If you're into doing it yourself, you have to replace the DSP board. It's a bit of a pain, but doable.


----------



## k elone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greyflag* /forum/post/20409249
> 
> 
> No problem using HDMI for sending decoded hi-res codecs from your player. I have a AVM50 with the ARC upgrade. If you're into doing it yourself, you have to replace the DSP board. It's a bit of a pain, but doable.



Do you know the price of the upgrade?


----------



## greyflag

$799 in 2009 through a Anthem dealer. I don't know if that has changed. It includes swapping out the DSP board, software, microphone and stand.


----------



## p.las

any news about the update? - regarding the DTS HD decoding issue?


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20409227
> 
> 
> 83/83SE use the ABS201x series of chips from Anchor Bay Technologies and not HQV Realta chipset.



Sorry, should have been more explicit. The 83 uses the *Reon HQV* chip, not the Realta chipset.


Ben


Edit: On browsing further, I can see that Adrian Wittenberg (Secrets) stated it's the ABT 2010 precessor that is used on the 83. Well, looks like either he or Doug Blackburn (WSR) is incorrect. Me? I just quote them. Perhaps someone else can shed any light on the discrepancies.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/20410872
> 
> 
> Sorry, should have been more explicit. The 83 uses the *Reon HQV* chip, not the Realta chipset.
> 
> 
> Ben
> 
> 
> Edit: On browsing further, I can see that Adrian Wittenberg (Secrets) stated it's the ABT 2010 precessor that is used on the 83. Well, looks like either he or Doug Blackburn (WSR) is incorrect. Me? I just quote them. Perhaps someone else can shed any light on the discrepancies.



According to the Oppo website the BDP-83/83SE uses the "VRS by Anchor Bay Video Processing". I'm pretty sure its the ABT 2010.


The BDP-93/95 uses "Qdeo by Marvell- Kyoto-G2 video processor"


I don't know if any of their older dvd players used the Reon or Realta chips, but neither of the Oppo Blurays do.


Tom


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20413455
> 
> 
> According to the Oppo website the BDP-83/83SE uses the "VRS by Anchor Bay Video Processing". I'm pretty sure its the ABT 2010.
> 
> 
> The BDP-93/95 uses "Qdeo by Marvell- Kyoto-G2 video processor"
> 
> 
> I don't know if any of their older dvd players used the Reon or Realta chips, but neither of the Oppo Blurays do.
> 
> 
> Tom



Yea, Tom, you and dmusoke are absolutely correct. I just had this reply from the WSR reviewer (whom I had the misfortune to [mis]quote earlier) in response to my query -

Oops, yes, indeed, the Oppo BDP-83 uses the Anchor Bay ABT2010 processor, not the Reon HQV processor.


Best regards,

Doug Blackburn


Ben


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20404793
> 
> 
> Every movie has low Frequencies - you need at least one SUB
> 
> to enjoy the movie How would you play pinball WITHOUT the Balls.
> 
> 
> Speaking of Pinball - I have attached a couple of pictures.



Nice collection.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/20417870
> 
> 
> Nice collection.



All Multi-Ball games to keep things FAST


----------



## steven2583




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20406526
> 
> 
> Hi -
> 
> 
> I am considering purchasing some Theta Digital Enterprise monoblocks to power my speakers. The only fly in the ointment seems to be that these amps don't support a continuous 12V trigger to come out of standby mode; they need a pulse instead. Converting them to respond to a continuous voltage would be a factory mod.
> 
> 
> Is there any way to get the D2V to issue a pulse instead of a continuous output? If not does anyone know of a gizmo that would act as an adapter between these two voltage modes?




I built my own little device to switch my theta dreadnaught on and off. I daisy chained two relays together. The anthem goes to one relay allows power to run from a wall wart to the amp. It also gives power to another relay which turns off the power from the amp to the wall wart. The relays have a delay between power and switch. So the amp sees power delay off. So it looks like a pulse.


Parts: 12v wall wart, 2 replys with 100 to 250 ms. Look in manual how long the pulse needs to be.


----------



## steven2583




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583* /forum/post/20418108
> 
> 
> I built my own little device to switch my theta dreadnaught on and off. I daisy chained two relays together. The anthem goes to one relay allows power to run from a wall wart to the amp. It also gives power to another relay which turns off the power from the amp to the wall wart. The relays have a delay between power and switch. So the amp sees power delay off. So it looks like a pulse.
> 
> 
> Parts: 12v wall wart, 2 replys with 100 to 250 ms. Look in manual how long the pulse needs to be.



That turns it on. I have another relay in my power code that actually hard switches off my amp so I don't worry about a pulse to turn off.


----------



## nrwatson

if you are using a blueray source what is the best audio input into the D2v

HDMI audio

Coaxial

or Toslink

sorry if this has already been asked

Neale


----------



## JimP

Neale,


HDMI is preferred.


Coaxial and Toslink don't have the bandwidth of HDMI.


----------



## esander3

HDMI is the only way to go. It is capable of up to 7.1 channels of CD or better quality digital. After that would have to be analogue if you don't want digital transfer...


Coax and Optical would be bottom of the list for BR, but the best for connecting to a DVD player that does not use HDMI.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:

Originally Posted by *steven2583* 
That turns it on. I have another relay in my power code that actually hard switches off my amp so I don't worry about a pulse to turn off.
Thanks. I found another device that seems like it will work as well, the Xantech 59900. Not too bad at about $50.


----------



## RobertR

I'm completely confused about how DVD1, DVD2, etc. works. How do I SELECT DVD1, 2, etc.??


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20424038
> 
> 
> I'm completely confused about how DVD1, DVD2, etc. works. How do I SELECT DVD1, 2, etc.??



Keep pressing the DVD button will cycle through them as long as you don't have them set to none in the source setup. There is a three button code listed in the manual to go directly to them. I think it's THX 9 2/3/4.


----------



## RobertR

Thanks! I'll program the macros into my Pronto.


----------



## RobertR

All the macros worked except DVD4. I have no idea why the Anthem refuses to accept it. It recognizes everything up to the second 8 in the "THX, 8, 8" sequence. I tried increasing the delay in the Pronto up to 0.6 seconds before the second 8. No go.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20425642
> 
> 
> All the macros worked except DVD4. I have no idea why the Anthem refuses to accept it. It recognizes everything up to the second 8 in the "THX, 8, 8" sequence. I tried increasing the delay in the Pronto up to 0.6 seconds before the second 8. No go.



It works for me on my URC MX-900. You don't happen to have that source disabled, do you?


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20425903
> 
> 
> It works for me on my URC MX-900. You don't happen to have that source disabled, do you?



The problem isn't related to the enabled status (I tried it enabled and disabled). If I enter THX 8 8 manually on the Anthem remote, it either goes to DVD4 or says it's disabled. If I program a macro on the Anthem with the same sequence, it also works. On the Pronto, I have macros programmed with the sequence:


THX

Delay 0.2 sec

8

Delay 0.2 sec

X


If X is 5, 6, or 7, it works perfectly. If X is 8, the Anthem keeps waiting for the second 8, then goes back to the current input. I tried increasing the second delay in 0.1 sec increments up to 0.6 sec, which should be more than enough. I can't figure out why the Anthem doesn't see the second 8 coming from the Pronto. Weird!!


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20426319
> 
> 
> The problem isn't related to the enabled status (I tried it enabled and disabled). If I enter THX 8 8 manually on the Anthem remote, it either goes to DVD4 or says it's disabled. If I program a macro on the Anthem with the same sequence, it also works. On the Pronto, I have macros programmed with the sequence:
> 
> 
> THX
> 
> Delay 0.2 sec
> 
> 8
> 
> Delay 0.2 sec
> 
> X
> 
> 
> If X is 5, 6, or 7, it works perfectly. If X is 8, the Anthem keeps waiting for the second 8, then goes back to the current input. I tried increasing the second delay in 0.1 sec increments up to 0.6 sec, which should be more than enough. I can't figure out why the Anthem doesn't see the second 8 coming from the Pronto. Weird!!



Maybe you should try learning the commands from the Anthem remote? Maybe what you have as codes in the Pronto aren't quite right, especially the 8.


----------



## TJG55

Where did you get the codes? If from a database, discard and learn to the Pronto directly from the Anthem remote. If that doesn't work, just repeat procedure after deleting the 8 button and start over. Worked on many Pronos over the years, you CAN eventually get them to work properly.

TJG


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/20426858
> 
> 
> Where did you get the codes? If from a database, discard and learn to the Pronto directly from the Anthem remote. If that doesn't work, just repeat procedure after deleting the 8 button and start over. Worked on many Pronos over the years, you CAN eventually get them to work properly.
> 
> TJG



So learn the Anthem code on the corresponding Pronto panel? It seems like 8 is the only problem here.


----------



## TJG55

Yes, but to be sure, delete the button with its current command, then, add the new button, name it as 8, then learn directly to it.

TJG


----------



## RobertR

Thanks for your help! I'll try it.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/20427369
> 
> 
> Yes, but to be sure, delete the button with its current command, then, add the new button, name it as 8, then learn directly to it.
> 
> TJG



I give up. I tried that, and it doesn't work. My Anthem WILL NOT accept consecutive 8s from my Pronto no matter what I do. The first 8, yes. Something other than 8 following it, yes.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20429511
> 
> 
> I give up. I tried that, and it doesn't work. My Anthem WILL NOT accept consecutive 8s from my Pronto no matter what I do. The first 8, yes. Something other than 8 following it, yes.



Send e-mail to Anthem with all the permutations you've tried...


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20429511
> 
> 
> I give up. I tried that, and it doesn't work. My Anthem WILL NOT accept consecutive 8s from my Pronto no matter what I do. The first 8, yes. Something other than 8 following it, yes.



Robert,


I was having the same problem you are describing with my universal remote.


I was able to get it to work by adding one more command at the end of the macro.

THX > 8 > 8 > Select (or Left, Right, Up or Down).


I don't know why it works, but it keeps the Anthem from getting hung up on the 8, and not going to the source you are trying to enter.


Hope this helps.


Tom


----------



## RobertR

Thanks Tom and to everyone else for your help (and to David for the Anthem!). This is a great thread! I FINALLY found a method that worked. I blasted THREE consecutive 8s (no delay) at the Anthem, and it FINALLY got the message.


----------



## AVfile

When is the new 50v / D2v software coming?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When is the new 50v / D2v software coming?



Just one more small issue being fixed and should be out shortly.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20430820
> 
> 
> Thanks Tom and to everyone else for your help (and to David for the Anthem!). This is a great thread! I FINALLY found a method that worked. I blasted THREE consecutive 8s (no delay) at the Anthem, and it FINALLY got the message.



Super (and relieved







!). Now for the ARC graphs...


(I also think you should have a sig that links to your awesome hometheater).


----------



## RobertR

A couple of questions about ARC for now: Should the prepro be off when making the measurement? Should the prepro be connected while measuring, or does it only need to be connected when transferring the data?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20433000
> 
> 
> A couple of questions about ARC for now: Should the prepro be off when making the measurement? Should the prepro be connected while measuring, or does it only need to be connected when transferring the data?



The prepro has to be connected and ARC will turn it off and on as required. It can be on to start or off doesn't matter. ARC sends signals to the prepro to generate the sounds that are measured from all the speakers. Of course your amp has to be on too. unless you have triggers set ARC does not control it.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/20433069
> 
> 
> The prepro has to be connected and ARC will turn it off and on as required. It can be on to start or off doesn't matter. ARC sends signals to the prepro to generate the sounds that are measured from all the speakers. Of course your amp has to be on too. unless you have triggers set ARC does not control it.



Thanks!


----------



## thestewman

Well I just bought a new D2v to replace my D2.

Can anyone guide me in how to back up and install my old settings form the D2 to the D2v. I seem to remember Anthem had a back up tool.


The new D2v has 2.1.1 installed.

Thanks


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Does anyone have a Roku box? I am having issues of having to reboot everytime when switching to and from the Roku.


----------



## joealbracht

I have a D2 with a Roku using component. No problems.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20433220
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Here's a link for a successful ARC calibration:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=33201


----------



## RobertR

Hi David, I need you to email me the microphone calibration file.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20434614
> 
> 
> Hi David, I need you to email me the microphone calibration file.



Done







!


----------



## RobertR

Thanks man.







ARC is a spectacular success. I'll try to show the graphs tomorrow.


----------



## Shayne2

Hi guys


New stand is done and re-arced I could show some more graphs but this system now simply kicks a$$. My centre sounds much better right in my face . The only think that is a bit of a bug is start up, it is like convulsions between the 50v and my tv as handshakes go on via hdmi. Green flashes which are jagged (not full 1080p) video snapping off and on a number of times. My wife says it looks like it is hurting the TV ;-). Is this normal? I guess I could try a different cable but this one (came with the set) has worked no problem with 2 other a/v receiver. Once it is up and running the video and audio are superb so as I said the only small bug.


Thanks for all the help guys.


----------



## RobertR

Here are my graphs:




















I'm extremely impressed by ARC. In less than half an hour, I got much better results than what I was able to achieve after hours and hours of tweaking with REW. And it not only measures great, but sounds fantastic.


----------



## dmusoke

Robert:


Great job on a successful ARC calibration







. Now please do the following:


1. Post your Targets chart to see what ARC has chosen for your crossovers and room gain.


2. In the Targets chart, set your Sub to Flat in the "Advanced" tab. This will flatten the top section of your subwoofer curve all the way to 20Hz.


3. The surrounds seem to slope off rapidly beyond 5KHz. You need to re-point them to maximuize their frequency response. Use the Quick measure tool for this (Tools -> Quick Measure) purpose.


4. Ditto for the mains as well. I think your ribbons should respond all the way past 20kHz easily.


5. You have no center speaker. Is this correct?


----------



## scheong

Hi all,


I have been reading up different threads on AVS while contemplating upgrades to my 10-year old HT system. Finally took the plunge about a month ago.







Here is my system: Samsung UN46C9000 LED-LCD TV, AVM50v/A5, Oppo BDP-95, B&W CM9 FL/FR, CM Centre 2, DS3 SL/SR, and NHT SubTwo.


My first post is about some video setup questions.


Is it necessary to have two separate video configurations, one for 1080p/24 (for BluRay) and another for 1080p/60 (for all others)? For DVD playback, should the BDP-95 handle the video upconversion (to 1080p/60) or leave the video upconversion to the AVM50v?


Thanx in advance.


Stanley


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scheong* /forum/post/20436870
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I have been reading up different threads on AVS while contemplating upgrades to my 10-year old HT system. Finally took the plunge about a month ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my system: Samsung UN46C9000 LED-LCD TV, AVM50v/A5, Oppo BDP-95, B&W CM9 FL/FR, CM Centre 2, DS3 SL/SR, and NHT SubTwo.
> 
> 
> My first post is about some video setup questions.
> 
> 
> Is it necessary to have two separate video configurations, one for 1080p/24 (for BluRay) and another for 1080p/60 (for all others)? For DVD playback, should the BDP-95 handle the video upconversion (to 1080p/60) or leave the video upconversion to the AVM50v?
> 
> 
> Thanx in advance.
> 
> 
> Stanley



Stanley:


Leave the upscaling to the BDP-95 and set the video config 1 of the 50v to 1080p/60 and config 2 to 1080p/24. Yes, I have 2 setups for /24 and /60 blurays.


- David


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20436745
> 
> 
> Robert:
> 
> 
> Great job on a successful ARC calibration
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now please do the following:
> 
> 
> 1. Post your Targets chart to see what ARC has chosen for your crossovers and room gain.
> 
> 
> 2. In the Targets chart, set your Sub to Flat in the "Advanced" tab. This will flatten the top section of your subwoofer curve all the way to 20Hz.
> 
> 
> 3. The surrounds seem to slope off rapidly beyond 5KHz. You need to re-point them to maximuize their frequency response. Use the Quick measure tool for this (Tools -> Quick Measure) purpose.
> 
> 
> 4. Ditto for the mains as well. I think your ribbons should respond all the way past 20kHz easily.
> 
> 
> 5. You have no center speaker. Is this correct?



David:


The room gain is about 3.9 dB. ARC wanted to choose 140 Hz for the crossover, but I manually set it to 65 Hz. The surrounds are a bipole design, and aren't supposed to point directly at the listener. You're correct, I have no center speaker.


I'm a little confused about the above 5 kHz issue. I thought Anthem was telling people it's not really effective to equalize above 5 kHz, because of uncertainties about what the actual response is? I set it at 10 kHz anyway. I think I want to put in a house curve to get a bit more bass oomph.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> David:
> 
> 
> The room gain is about 3.9 dB. ARC wanted to choose 140 Hz for the crossover, but I manually set it to 65 Hz. The surrounds are a bipole design, and aren't supposed to point directly at the listener. You're correct, I have no center speaker.
> 
> 
> I'm a little confused about the above 5 kHz issue. I thought Anthem was telling people it's not really effective to equalize above 5 kHz, because of uncertainties about what the actual response is? I set it at 10 kHz anyway. I think I want to put in a house curve to get a bit more bass oomph.



I wouldn't lower the cutoff, I believe that is what you changed, not the crossover, that much. ARC knows better than you what it should be set to so put it back to around 120 Hz.

Now for the sub. Raise the crossover on the back of the sub to it's highest freq. usually 150 or 180 Hz. Now move your sub around to see if you can move the measured curve higher from 100 to 20 Hz. Quick measure in the ARC Tool menu, can be used to speed this up. The better the measured curve, the better job ARC will do.

John


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20437221
> 
> 
> I wouldn't lower the cutoff, I believe that is what you changed, not the crossover, that much. ARC knows better than you what it should be set to so put it back to around 120 Hz.
> 
> Now for the sub. Raise the crossover on the back of the sub to it's highest freq. usually 150 or 180 Hz. Now move your sub around to see if you can move the measured curve higher from 100 to 20 Hz. Quick measure in the ARC Tool menu, can be used to speed this up. The better the measured curve, the better job ARC will do.
> 
> John



It was the crossover, setup shows it as 65 Hz. I don't have a conventional sub. It's an IB sub with 8 15 inch drivers, and is in a fixed position. I'm thinking I want to put in a house curve as described in this article:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...ed-how-do.html


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20437168
> 
> 
> David:
> 
> 
> The room gain is about 3.9 dB. ARC wanted to choose 140 Hz for the crossover, but I manually set it to 65 Hz. The surrounds are a bipole design, and aren't supposed to point directly at the listener. You're correct, I have no center speaker.
> 
> 
> I'm a little confused about the above 5 kHz issue. I thought Anthem was telling people it's not really effective to equalize above 5 kHz, because of uncertainties about what the actual response is? I set it at 10 kHz anyway. I think I want to put in a house curve to get a bit more bass oomph.



OK ...i agree with Jayray above not to change the response cutoff from what ARC suggested. This is not necessarily the crossover point. Its the frequency at which ARC has determined to apply its EQ and no more beyond that.


Give what ARC has suggested a listen before changing it. And yes, for the Ooomph you are looking for, setting the Sub EQ to flat will surely provide that. It won't roll of your Subwoofer below 20Hz. The current default curve does roll off your response as indicated by the hump in the target curve.


I think you'll be suprised how good the house curve that ARC provides...


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20437327
> 
> 
> OK ...i agree with Jayray above not to change the response cutoff from what ARC suggested. This is not necessarily the crossover point. Its the frequency at which ARC has determined to apply its EQ and no more beyond that.
> 
> 
> Give what ARC has suggested a listen before changing it. And yes, for the Ooomph you are looking for, setting the Sub EQ to flat will surely provide that. It won't roll of your Subwoofer below 20Hz. The current default curve does roll off your response as indicated by the hump in the target curve.
> 
> 
> I think you'll be suprised how good the house curve that ARC provides...



I'm confused. ARC suggested 140 Hz as the frequency _below_ which it won't equalize, and the number has nothing to do with the sub's crossover point? Why does the sub crossover point in the Anthem setup menu show as 65 Hz then, and match the 65 Hz I chose in that ARC menu?


----------



## David Shapiro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20436950
> 
> 
> Stanley:
> 
> 
> Leave the upscaling to the BDP-95 and set the video config 1 of the 50v to 1080p/60 and config 2 to 1080p/24. Yes, I have 2 setups for /24 and /60 blurays.
> 
> 
> - David



Wow, this my exact situation and my exact question. I am controlling my system with a Logitech Harmony. Is there some way to change the anthem output resolution from config1 to config2 with a button on the remote, or do I have to go back into setup to to change it manually. I have an oppo 93 with 2 HDMI outputs. Is it possible to use a separate input with a video configuration set up for 1080p/24?


Thanks,

David


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20437367
> 
> 
> I'm confused. ARC suggested 140 Hz as the frequency _below_ which it won't equalize, and the number has nothing to do with the sub's crossover point? Why does the sub crossover point in the Anthem setup menu show as 65 Hz then, and match the 65 Hz I chose in that ARC menu?



No:


The sub will be EQ'd up to 140Hz and then ARC will let the sub's natural frequency response after that untouched. Yes, sometimes the target response cutoffs are the same as the crossover. This is what ARC says about this topic: Response cutoffs are not crossover frequencies although the behavior and purpose is similar. Response cutoffs are part of equalization, but not necessarily bass redirection, and are meant to not stress speakers at frequency extremes. Crossover frequencies are uploaded to the unit’s bass manager during the upload procedure and are not necessarily the same as the response cutoff selected here.

.

.

.

So why 140 Hz? That's the magic of ARC, its secret sauce.


----------



## David Shapiro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David Shapiro* /forum/post/20437388
> 
> 
> Wow, this my exact situation and my exact question. I am controlling my system with a Logitech Harmony. Is there some way to change the anthem output resolution from config1 to config2 with a button on the remote, or do I have to go back into setup to to change it manually. I have an oppo 93 with 2 HDMI outputs. Is it possible to use a separate input with a video configuration set up for 1080p/24?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



After reading the manual again, is it possible that "frame lock" will change the output resolution to the source resolution automatically?


Thanks


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David Shapiro* /forum/post/20437388
> 
> 
> Wow, this my exact situation and my exact question. I am controlling my system with a Logitech Harmony. Is there some way to change the anthem output resolution from config1 to config2 with a button on the remote, or do I have to go back into setup to to change it manually. I have an oppo 93 with 2 HDMI outputs. Is it possible to use a separate input with a video configuration set up for 1080p/24?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



Yes, i believe its possible to change the resolution on the fly using the remote but me know not!


In my case, i set config 1 for my cable box at 1080p/60, config 2 for my bluray to 1080p/24 and set concert blurays(1080i/29.97Hz) to the config 1 setting but using a different audio source.


In your case, i'd set HDMI1 from the Oppo into the 50v as 1080p/24 on say HDMI 1. Then assign DVD input#2 of the same input the setup menu to 1080p/60 for DVD's and concert blurays. You'd toggle between the two sources by repeatedly pressing the DVD button on your remote.


I wouldn't use the 2nd HDMI input from the Oppo for video since its doesn't use the Qdeo processor.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David Shapiro* /forum/post/20437615
> 
> 
> After reading the manual again, is it possible that "frame lock" will change the output resolution to the source resolution automatically?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yes...but it's slow to lock onto a difference frame rate. If the delays are OK with you, then its no problem.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David Shapiro* /forum/post/20437388
> 
> 
> Wow, this my exact situation and my exact question. I am controlling my system with a Logitech Harmony. Is there some way to change the anthem output resolution from config1 to config2 with a button on the remote, or do I have to go back into setup to to change it manually. I have an oppo 93 with 2 HDMI outputs. Is it possible to use a separate input with a video configuration set up for 1080p/24?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



Yes, there is a way to set it up so that you can change from 1080p/60 to to 1080p/24 with one button push.


First you need to set up 2 different video output configurations in the Anthem setup- #1 for 1080p/24 and #2 for 1080p/60.


Then you need to set up 2 different sources (DVD1 and DVD2 for example), one for dvd playback and one for bluray. They can be named appropriatly, so that you know which one is selected.

So, for example, lets say you set up video config #1 to 1080p/24, and video config #2 at 1080p/60.


Now in the source setup section setup DVD#1 for Bluray. Rename it something like 'BLURAY' (pretty clever. huh?) ,so that is what will show on the front panel and OSD while you are using that source, and then chose video configuration #1 (1080p/24).

Now set up DVD#2 source, rename it 'DVD'. For it chose video configuration #2 (1080p/60).


Now (unless you want to use DVD3# or DVD#4 for another source) you can deactivate DVD #3 and DVD#4 in the source setup.

By pushing the DVD button on the remote, or the DVD button on the front panel, you can toggle between DVD#1 (BLURAY) and DVD#2 (DVD) with one button push.


If you do setup DVD#3 or DVD#4 for another source (like SACD), then you will need to push the button another time or two. Or you can use the codes in the Athem manual and configure a 'BLURAY' and 'DVD' and 'SACD' button in your universal remote.



Just to make things alittle more confusing, you also have the option with the OPPO of sending its HDMI#1 directly to your display, and HDMI#2 to your Anthem for audio.

Then you can setup the video output in the Oppo, and don't need to setup the video configurations in the Anthem.

I use the Oppo93 and have tried both ways. I prefer setting it up in the Anthem and using HDMI#1 out from the OPPO to the Anthem and HDMI out from the Anthem to my display.

This way seems to reduce handshaking problems and eliminate any audio synch issues.


Its really easy to do and will probably take less time to do it than it will to read my explanation.


Tom


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David Shapiro* /forum/post/20437615
> 
> 
> After reading the manual again, is it possible that "frame lock" will change the output resolution to the source resolution automatically?
> 
> 
> Thanks



FWIW, Bob always suggested leaving Frame Lock 'off'. Although, theoretically, it would do what you want, in reality it caused alot more handshaking problems.

He always suggested setting up a different source with a fixed video output for each source.


Tom


----------



## RobertR

I think I need to study the guides on ARC


----------



## Picasso Moon

With the upcoming 3D upgrade I wonder if there is any chance there will be a video pass-through option which would eliminate the need to have 2 video outputs setup for 24/60?


----------



## scheong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20436950
> 
> 
> Stanley:
> 
> 
> Leave the upscaling to the BDP-95 and set the video config 1 of the 50v to 1080p/60 and config 2 to 1080p/24. Yes, I have 2 setups for /24 and /60 blurays.
> 
> 
> - David



Thanx David for the quick reply.


Stanley


----------



## scheong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20437757
> 
> 
> Yes, there is a way to set it up so that you can change from 1080p/60 to to 1080p/24 with one button push.
> 
> 
> First you need to set up 2 different video output configurations in the Anthem setup- #1 for 1080p/24 and #2 for 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> Then you need to set up 2 different sources (DVD1 and DVD2 for example), one for dvd playback and one for bluray. They can be named appropriatly, so that you know which one is selected.
> 
> So, for example, lets say you set up video config #1 to 1080p/24, and video config #2 at 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> Now in the source setup section setup DVD#1 for Bluray. Rename it something like 'BLURAY' (pretty clever. huh?) ,so that is what will show on the front panel and OSD while you are using that source, and then chose video configuration #1 (1080p/24).
> 
> Now set up DVD#2 source, rename it 'DVD'. For it chose video configuration #2 (1080p/60).
> 
> 
> Now (unless you want to use DVD3# or DVD#4 for another source) you can deactivate DVD #3 and DVD#4 in the source setup.
> 
> By pushing the DVD button on the remote, or the DVD button on the front panel, you can toggle between DVD#1 (BLURAY) and DVD#2 (DVD) with one button push.
> 
> 
> If you do setup DVD#3 or DVD#4 for another source (like SACD), then you will need to push the button another time or two. Or you can use the codes in the Athem manual and configure a 'BLURAY' and 'DVD' and 'SACD' button in your universal remote.
> 
> 
> 
> Just to make things alittle more confusing, you also have the option with the OPPO of sending its HDMI#1 directly to your display, and HDMI#2 to your Anthem for audio.
> 
> Then you can setup the video output in the Oppo, and don't need to setup the video configurations in the Anthem.
> 
> I use the Oppo93 and have tried both ways. I prefer setting it up in the Anthem and using HDMI#1 out from the OPPO to the Anthem and HDMI out from the Anthem to my display.
> 
> This way seems to reduce handshaking problems and eliminate any audio synch issues.
> 
> 
> Its really easy to do and will probably take less time to do it than it will to read my explanation.
> 
> 
> Tom



Hi Tom,


This is exactly how I have things setup in the 50v to handle both BluRay and DVD playback from the BDP-95. With so much flexibility in the 50v, it is re-assuring to see others dealing with the same setup the same way.










Stanley


----------



## rovingtravler

Is anyone else having issues getting sound from their Oppo 93 when streaming Netflix?


What settings are you using?


I have it set up fine for dvd and BD, but streaming shows PCM for audio and no sound.


I get the same thiing from my HTPC. Video works flawlessly, but no sound. HDMI sound is set up and it works with no problem ona Panny and Sammy HDTV.


Any ideas?


Thanks.


----------



## David Shapiro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20437757
> 
> 
> Yes, there is a way to set it up so that you can change from 1080p/60 to to 1080p/24 with one button push.
> 
> 
> First you need to set up 2 different video output configurations in the Anthem setup- #1 for 1080p/24 and #2 for 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> Then you need to set up 2 different sources (DVD1 and DVD2 for example), one for dvd playback and one for bluray. They can be named appropriatly, so that you know which one is selected.
> 
> So, for example, lets say you set up video config #1 to 1080p/24, and video config #2 at 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> Now in the source setup section setup DVD#1 for Bluray. Rename it something like 'BLURAY' (pretty clever. huh?) ,so that is what will show on the front panel and OSD while you are using that source, and then chose video configuration #1 (1080p/24).
> 
> Now set up DVD#2 source, rename it 'DVD'. For it chose video configuration #2 (1080p/60).
> 
> 
> Now (unless you want to use DVD3# or DVD#4 for another source) you can deactivate DVD #3 and DVD#4 in the source setup.
> 
> By pushing the DVD button on the remote, or the DVD button on the front panel, you can toggle between DVD#1 (BLURAY) and DVD#2 (DVD) with one button push.
> 
> 
> If you do setup DVD#3 or DVD#4 for another source (like SACD), then you will need to push the button another time or two. Or you can use the codes in the Athem manual and configure a 'BLURAY' and 'DVD' and 'SACD' button in your universal remote.
> 
> 
> 
> Just to make things alittle more confusing, you also have the option with the OPPO of sending its HDMI#1 directly to your display, and HDMI#2 to your Anthem for audio.
> 
> Then you can setup the video output in the Oppo, and don't need to setup the video configurations in the Anthem.
> 
> I use the Oppo93 and have tried both ways. I prefer setting it up in the Anthem and using HDMI#1 out from the OPPO to the Anthem and HDMI out from the Anthem to my display.
> 
> This way seems to reduce handshaking problems and eliminate any audio synch issues.
> 
> 
> Its really easy to do and will probably take less time to do it than it will to read my explanation.
> 
> 
> Tom



Hi Tom,

Thanks so much for the advice. You were right, it took longer to read than to set up. Is there some way, other than reading the fine print, to see if the discs are /24 or /60? I tried reading the Oppo manual, but my eyes started to cross at 1 am.

I don't understand why it can't be automatic, but maybe that's just another reason for the sound to drop out.


Thanks.

David


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David Shapiro* /forum/post/20439285
> 
> 
> Hi Tom,
> 
> Thanks so much for the advice. You were right, it took longer to read than to set up. *Is there some way, other than reading the fine print, to see if the discs are /24 or /60?* I tried reading the Oppo manual, but my eyes started to cross at 1 am.
> 
> I don't understand why it can't be automatic, but maybe that's just another reason for the sound to drop out.
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> David



In the Oppo set the output resolution to to 1080p.

This will insure that all discs will be upscaled to 1080p from 480i(DVD) and 1080i(music BR), and that 1080p(most BR) will virtually pass thru. You can set the Oppo to 'source direct', but since the video chips in the Oppo 83/se and 93/95 are excellent just let the Oppo do the heavy lifting. You can do minimal tweaking to the video in the Anthem to suit your taste.


Then set the Oppo to 'auto' for 1080p/24 output. This will ensure that all the discs that are recorded at 1080p/24 (BR's) will be sent out at that rate.


When the actual movie starts press the 'select' button on the Anthem remote twice. The first push will display the firmware version/time. *The second push will display the video input resolution and refresh rate*.
*Or youcan push the 'info' button on the Oppo, which will show the resolution and refresh rates of the disc.*

Once you know if the Anthem is receiving 1080p/24 or 1080p/60, you can change the Anthem source to either DVD#1 or DVD#2 to match the correct input refresh rate (from the Oppo) to the matching refresh rate out (from the Anthem to your display).


Tom


Disclaimer: When I say 1080p/24 and 1080p/60 I am rounding up. The actual reading may be 1080p/23.xxx or 1080p/59.xxx.


----------



## RobertR

Okay, so I reran the calculations, and I came up with better curves, showing flat response to 15 k Hz. I also followed David's suggestion (Thanks David!) and got it flat to 20 Hz:


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, so I reran the calculations, and I came up with better curves, showing flat response to 15 k Hz. I also followed David's suggestion (Thanks David!) and got it flat to 20 Hz:



Now that looks better. Give it a listen and then tell us what you think. From the charts

I think I know what it will sound like









John


----------



## dmusoke

Robert:

I agree that your curves look much better now and your system should sound excellent







. Let us know how it sounds and congrats! Bythe way, don't forget to phase match the mains to the subwoofer.


PS

Your reference levels are pegge at 78dB instead of 75dB. This means that when you set the AVM50v volume to -10, it will play at a level of 78dB, instead of the dolby reference level of 75 dB which is what Anthem had intended. But really this is just a silly nitpick







.


----------



## a2k2000

I have an opportunity to buy an Anthrm D2 used. I have an Oppo BDP-93 which can send out PCM signal at 192 Khz via its HDMI which I plan to send to the D2's HDMI in for DTS-HD, SACD and DVD-Audio. But I read that the HDMI 1.1 in the D2 can take only an max of 96Hz signal. Is that true. I called anthem and they said it can take in 192 Khz. Can someone comment on this.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *a2k2000* /forum/post/20440732
> 
> 
> I have an opportunity to buy an Anthrm D2 used. I have an Oppo BDP-93 which can send out PCM signal at 192 Khz via its HDMI which I plan to send to the D2's HDMI in for DTS-HD, SACD and DVD-Audio. But I read that the HDMI 1.1 in the D2 can take only an max of 96Hz signal. Is that true. I called anthem and they said it can take in 192 Khz. Can someone comment on this.



The D2 is limited to 96K and then up samples to 192for internal processing. The D2v will accept 192K input.


----------



## scheong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20438655
> 
> 
> Is anyone else having issues getting sound from their Oppo 93 when streaming Netflix?
> 
> 
> What settings are you using?
> 
> 
> I have it set up fine for dvd and BD, but streaming shows PCM for audio and no sound.
> 
> 
> I get the same thiing from my HTPC. Video works flawlessly, but no sound. HDMI sound is set up and it works with no problem ona Panny and Sammy HDTV.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Hi David,


I believe with the current Netflix software with the Oppo 93/95, getting PCM for audio while streaming Netflix is normal. In fact, this is exactly what I got streaming Netflix earlier today through my Oppo 95.


As for no sound, you might have better luck getting answers from the Oppo 93 thread. I kind of recall seeing some posts about no audio while streaming Netflix. Might have something to do with SACD playback...


Stanley


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/20440780
> 
> 
> The D2 is limited to 96K and then up samples to 192for internal processing. The D2v will accept 192K input.



The input on the D2 is also limited to 5.1 channels.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *a2k2000* /forum/post/20440732
> 
> 
> I have an opportunity to buy an Anthrm D2 used. I have an Oppo BDP-93 which can send out PCM signal at 192 Khz via its HDMI which I plan to send to the D2's HDMI in for DTS-HD, SACD and DVD-Audio.



The AVM-50v would be a better buy for you, if you can get a discount. I got one running SACD @ 176k no problem and it sounds fantastic. Someone here was just selling one recently.


----------



## David Shapiro




Then set the Oppo to 'auto' for 1080p/24 output. This will ensure that all the discs that are recorded at 1080p/24 (BR's) will be sent out at that rate.
.[/QUOTE said:


> Hi,
> 
> Sorry to be so thick, but I understand that I set the Oppo to 1080p output resolution, but where do I set it again to 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David


----------



## scheong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David Shapiro* /forum/post/20441297
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Sorry to be so thick, but I understand that I set the Oppo to 1080p output resolution, but where do I set it again to 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



Hi David,


It is one of the menu item under "Video Setup". In fact, I believe it is the menu item following "Output Resolution".


I have it set to "Auto".


Stanley


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scheong* /forum/post/20438403
> 
> 
> This is exactly how I have things setup in the 50v to handle both BluRay and DVD playback from the BDP-95. With so much flexibility in the 50v, it is re-assuring to see others dealing with the same setup the same way.



Me too except I switch between 720p and 1080i frequently, since I have a CRT projector (not a fixed pixel display). I also made a dual setup for the cable box (TV1 / TV2) since some TV stations are in 720p vice 1080i and I prefer to watch them in their native form. If I ever get 72Hz modes working I will have even more setups!


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon* /forum/post/20437803
> 
> 
> With the upcoming 3D upgrade I wonder if there is any chance there will be a video pass-through option which would eliminate the need to have 2 video outputs setup for 24/60?



Regardless of the hardware update, I hope Anthem allows a pass-through option in a future software update. It would simplify my setup and also allow better integration with an outboard scaler.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David Shapiro* /forum/post/20441297
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Sorry to be so thick, but I understand that I set the Oppo to 1080p output resolution, but where do I set it again to 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



David,

Like Stanley said, its the next item after 'output resolution' in the video section of the Oppo's setup menu.

You may have to hit the \\/ down arrow to get it appear.


Tom


----------



## David Shapiro

Got it, thanks.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20440095
> 
> 
> Okay, so I reran the calculations, and I came up with better curves, showing flat response to 15 k Hz. I also followed David's suggestion (Thanks David!) and got it flat to 20 Hz:



Great sub chart !

I cannot ever recall seeing Lt/Rt front speakers flat out to to 15,000 khz.

Wonder what accounts for that unusual chart response ?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20441830
> 
> 
> Great sub chart !
> 
> I cannot ever recall seeing Lt/Rt front speakers flat out to to 15,000 khz.
> 
> Wonder what accounts for that unusual chart response ?



VMPS ribbon speakers with high-end frequency response rated above 20 KHz


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20441830
> 
> 
> Great sub chart !
> 
> I cannot ever recall seeing Lt/Rt front speakers flat out to to 15,000 khz.
> 
> Wonder what accounts for that unusual chart response ?



Setting the max EQ freq. to 15K.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20440389
> 
> 
> Now that looks better. Give it a listen and then tell us what you think. From the charts
> 
> I think I know what it will sound like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Robert:
> 
> I agree that your curves look much better now and your system should sound excellent. Let us know how it sounds and congrats! Bythe way, don't forget to phase match the mains to the subwoofer.



It sounds awesome







I just finished watched watching some of my favorite demo material, and all of my concerns about the bass having enough oomph are addressed. It's the best the sub has ever sounded! Deep, deep, solid, and POWERFUL. The rest of the spectrum is clear and detailed..wonderfully so. So, I should tweak the phase a little, eh David? Ok...you know us engineers like to tweak!


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20441830
> 
> 
> Great sub chart !
> 
> I cannot ever recall seeing Lt/Rt front speakers flat out to to 15,000 khz.
> 
> Wonder what accounts for that unusual chart response ?



Thanks







I wish the graph went lower...I've done previous testing that showed the response going down to 5 Hz or so.


----------



## RobertR

1


----------



## a2k2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20441259
> 
> 
> The input on the D2 is also limited to 5.1 channels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The AVM-50v would be a better buy for you, if you can get a discount. I got one running SACD @ 176k no problem and it sounds fantastic. Someone here was just selling one recently.




But I read the D2 had better sound quality because of upsampling. BTW I didn't know you could get 176K out of an SACD.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20442278
> 
> 
> It sounds awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just finished watched watching some of my favorite demo material, and all of my concerns about the bass having enough oomph are addressed. It's the best the sub has ever sounded! Deep, deep, solid, and POWERFUL. The rest of the spectrum is clear and detailed..wonderfully so. So, I should tweak the phase a little, eh David? Ok...you know us engineers like to tweak!



It's good to hear that your system sounds as good as your charts look. It's always good when the ears agree with the charts which doesn't always happen; but, in this case, it did happen. Good job and enjoy!!!!!!


----------



## Shayne2

Hi


Is there a way of deactivating a primary source altogether (like tape) so when I cycle through sources it skips that source button completely.


Regards


----------



## AVfile

Quote:

Originally Posted by *a2k2000* 
But I read the D2 had better sound quality because of upsampling.
Upsampling can be viewed as a subjective thing - sounds great in theory but not everyone likes it. Also for SACD, with the right player, you get a bit of upsampling at the source. But more importantly the 50v has other audio features the 50/D2 don't have. Check out the attached comparison chart and you decide...

Quote:

Originally Posted by *a2k2000* 
BTW I didn't know you could get 176K out of an SACD.
Depends on the player. I use a Sony BDP-s770 which converts DSD to 176k, which is actually higher than SACD "needs" but other players truncate to 88k or 96k which is lower than SACD "needs".

 

avm50_ComparisonChart.pdf 37.474609375k . file


----------



## RobertR

I listened to some of my favorite CDs last night, and I wanted to talk more about the sound with ARC. I was struck by the _smoothness_ of the sound. There is no peakiness, no shrillness, no boominess, no male chestiness. Everything is balanced. Highs are crystalline, bass is tight, and everything sounds very transparent and detailed. What wonderful software.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20449653
> 
> 
> I listened to some of my favorite CDs last night, and I wanted to talk more about the sound with ARC. I was struck by the _smoothness_ of the sound. There is no peakiness, no shrillness, no boominess, no male chestiness. Everything is balanced. Highs are crystalline, bass is tight, and everything sounds very transparent and detailed. What wonderful software.



Isn't the *ARCoolaid* great tasting









John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20449653
> 
> 
> I listened to some of my favorite CDs last night, and I wanted to talk more about the sound with ARC. I was struck by the _smoothness_ of the sound. There is no peakiness, no shrillness, no boominess, no male chestiness. Everything is balanced. Highs are crystalline, bass is tight, and everything sounds very transparent and detailed. What wonderful software.



So, I'm not sure I understand what your saying.

Do you or don't you like ARC ??











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20449802
> 
> 
> Isn't the *ARCoolaid* great tasting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I'll drink to that!!










Tom


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20448839
> 
> 
> Also for SACD, with the right player, you get a bit of upsampling at the source.



Are you referring to the players as you mention below that support various output sample rates like 176.4 or 88.2? That's not upsampling, it's the sample rate of the decimation filter. Unlike upsampling, in this case we hope there is actual recorded content up there. (Something that is all too rare, unfortunately







)



> Quote:
> Depends on the player. I use a Sony BDP-s770 which converts DSD to 176k, which is actually higher than SACD "needs" but other players truncate to 88k or 96k which is lower than SACD "needs".



When the decimation is 176.4 kHz, it's conversion, but when it's 88.2 kHz, it's truncation? Are they not all conversions since it's the same process in every case?


I have not seen any players with a 96 kHz SACD conversion, but the Denons use 44.1 kHz. 96k would be an odd choice since it is not integrally related with the SACD sample rate.


How do you mean "need"? Need for what? 88.2 kHz (40 kHz audio) far exceeds human perception. What else is needed?







I can see how 44.1 kHz might be deemed "less than needed" to achieve optimal fidelity.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/20444323
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> Is there a way of deactivating a primary source altogether (like tape) so when I cycle through sources it skips that source button completely.
> 
> 
> Regards



I'm not sure I understand your question.

If you are talking about using the 'seek' button on the remote, then no. It will cycle tru all the primary sources. You can disable TV2-4, DVD2-4 and SAT2 in the setup menu and skip them.

But what I'm wondering is,why you would want to cycle thru the sources? You can go directly to the source you want by using the source buttons on the bottom of the Anthem remote (or can program a universal remote to go directly to the source you want), and avoid the hassle of going thru the whole list of sources.


Tom


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/20450268
> 
> 
> Are you referring to the players as you mention below that support various output sample rates like 176.4 or 88.2? That's not upsampling, it's the sample rate of the decimation filter. Unlike upsampling, in this case we hope there is actual recorded content up there. (Something that is all too rare, unfortunately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> When the decimation is 176.4 kHz, it's conversion, but when it's 88.2 kHz, it's truncation? Are they not all conversions since it's the same process in every case?
> 
> 
> I have not seen any players with a 96 kHz SACD conversion, but the Denons use 44.1 kHz. 96k would be an odd choice since it is not integrally related with the SACD sample rate.
> 
> 
> How do you mean "need"? Need for what? 88.2 kHz (40 kHz audio) far exceeds human perception. What else is needed?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can see how 44.1 kHz might be deemed "less than needed" to achieve optimal fidelity.



Thank you, Roger, for informing us of the correct terminology. I should not have used the term upsampling but the end result, as seen from the receiving end, is a higher sample rate. This does not neccessarily mean better sound on the ears of course. I'm not sure about any DSD conversions to 96k (vice 44/88k) either, but hopefully the reader gets the idea.


Of course these super high sample rates are all theoretical advantages hence I put "need" in quotes. With a DSD sampling rate of 2.8224 MHz (1-bit) its bandwidth exceeds that of PCM 96 kHz (24-bit) but I am not advocating an apples to oranges comparison. I will just say that the tricks required to overcome some of the more technical issues at this point probably blow away my basic math.


In the end SACD sounds great when played back on my analog equipment without conversion to PCM. With conversion to PCM for my digital system by the Sony BDP-s770, it also sounds great - maybe even better. Whether that is due to the 176k support or not, I am confident that the little Sony is extracting every last ounce of goodness from my SACDs.


----------



## a2k2000

Is the Anthem D2 fully balanced from input to output all the way or is it just XLR terminated so the output is balanced when connected with other balanced devices.


----------



## barhoram

I'm looking to finally get a spectrophotometer and calibrate my D2/JVC RS20 combo and was looking at different products. I have seen mention that CalMan may be coming out with an one button auto calibration for the Gennum in the D2 Any thoughts on this potential feature and if it is worth waiting for? I thougt I would find some mention of it in this thread...but couldn't really find anything.


----------



## AVfile

Unless they will offer a free upgrade to the new SW when it comes out I would wait. I bought a CalMan/Chroma5 bundle but I missed the window of free upgrade to v4 so I am stuck with v3. Calibrating manually is fairly painless though with a fast meter like the Chroma5.


Interesting news by the way, I didn't know about that... how will CalMan connect to the Gennum in the Anthem?


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20450377
> 
> 
> I'm not sure I understand your question.
> 
> If you are talking about using the 'seek' button on the remote, then no. It will cycle tru all the primary sources. You can disable TV2-4, DVD2-4 and SAT2 in the setup menu and skip them.
> 
> But what I'm wondering is,why you would want to cycle thru the sources? You can go directly to the source you want by using the source buttons on the bottom of the Anthem remote (or can program a universal remote to go directly to the source you want), and avoid the hassle of going thru the whole list of sources.
> 
> 
> Tom



That is what I thought. I find it a bit weird that you can not say somewhere in the software Tape = not connected and therefore it will not hiccup and give you the red screen of death when you get to it.


Using another universal remote that does not have all those input button but one input that cycles. Makes that button a bit useless though to go though 6 components that are not connected to get to the one you want. You are right I can program the remote to go direct but my old a/v would cycle also no problem and you were able to say no it is not connected and it would be bypassed. I just thought I was missing something.


Thanks Tom


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20449653
> 
> 
> I listened to some of my favorite CDs last night, and I wanted to talk more about the sound with ARC. I was struck by the _smoothness_ of the sound. There is no peakiness, no shrillness, no boominess, no male chestiness. Everything is balanced. Highs are crystalline, bass is tight, and everything sounds very transparent and detailed. What wonderful software.



Robert:


A common test i often do to determine the performance of ARC to is turn it off and on for sources i'm listening to. You can toggle this in the Setup menu (Source Setup -> SOURCE -> ARC ROOM EQ). This is a true eye opener







.


----------



## dvcdude

Quote:

Originally Posted by *barhoram*
I'm looking to finally get a spectrophotometer and calibrate my D2/JVC RS20 combo and was looking at different products. I have seen mention that CalMan may be coming out with an one button auto calibration for the Gennum in the D2 Any thoughts on this potential feature and if it is worth waiting for? I thougt I would find some mention of it in this thread...but couldn't really find anything.
This feature did not make the latest software update, but is in the works. I highly recommend Calman software for calibration and suggest you check out the Calman forum at www.spectracal.com/forum .


----------



## a2k2000

Quote:

Originally Posted by *a2k2000* 
Is the Anthem D2 fully balanced from input to output all the way or is it just XLR terminated so the output is balanced when connected with other balanced devices.
I called Anthem today and they said it is nor incase anyone else in the forum is looking for this information.


----------



## a2k2000

Quote:

Originally Posted by *AVfile* 
Thank you, Roger, for informing us of the correct terminology. I should not have used the term upsampling but the end result, as seen from the receiving end, is a higher sample rate. This does not neccessarily mean better sound on the ears of course. I'm not sure about any DSD conversions to 96k (vice 44/88k) either, but hopefully the reader gets the idea.


Of course these super high sample rates are all theoretical advantages hence I put "need" in quotes. With a DSD sampling rate of 2.8224 MHz (1-bit) its bandwidth exceeds that of PCM 96 kHz (24-bit) but I am not advocating an apples to oranges comparison. I will just say that the tricks required to overcome some of the more technical issues at this point probably blow away my basic math.


In the end SACD sounds great when played back on my analog equipment without conversion to PCM. With conversion to PCM for my digital system by the Sony BDP-s770, it also sounds great - maybe even better. Whether that is due to the 176k support or not, I am confident that the little Sony is extracting every last ounce of goodness from my SACDs.


Thanks much for the response Stefan.


----------



## jerbob

Hello everyone, this may be a little off the subject but I'll go ahead anyway.


I purchased a used 50V from a owner on Audiogon a couple of weeks ago. And thanks to all of you I am enjoying it very much. I doubt if I could have set it up to function as well as it does without soaking up a lot of knowledge from the users on this forum.


I have listed my old processor for sale on Audiogon and when I went to see how it's doing today I cannot enter their site. It looks like their domain name needs to be renewed or the name is for sale.


Anyhow, I thought I would post it here as I'm sure many of you have used Audiogon in the past when buying or selling equipment and if fact may have items for sale now as I have.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob* /forum/post/20460862
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, this may be a little off the subject but I'll go ahead anyway.
> 
> 
> I purchased a used 50V from a owner on Audiogon a couple of weeks ago. And thanks to all of you I am enjoying it very much. I doubt if I could have set it up to function as well as it does without soaking up a lot of knowledge from the users on this forum.
> 
> 
> I have listed my old processor for sale on Audiogon and when I went to see how it's doing today I cannot enter their site. It looks like their domain name needs to be renewed or the name is for sale.
> 
> 
> Anyhow, I thought I would post it here as I'm sure many of you have used Audiogon in the past when buying or selling equipment and if fact may have items for sale now as I have.



Works fine for me in Canada.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob* /forum/post/20460862
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, this may be a little off the subject but I'll go ahead anyway.
> 
> 
> I purchased a used 50V from a owner on Audiogon a couple of weeks ago. And thanks to all of you I am enjoying it very much. I doubt if I could have set it up to function as well as it does without soaking up a lot of knowledge from the users on this forum.
> 
> 
> I have listed my old processor for sale on Audiogon and when I went to see how it's doing today I cannot enter their site. It looks like their domain name needs to be renewed or the name is for sale.
> 
> 
> Anyhow, I thought I would post it here as I'm sure many of you have used Audiogon in the past when buying or selling equipment and if fact may have items for sale now as I have.



Works fine for me in the U.S.


----------



## jerbob

Okay, mine is working now also. Must have been a temporary glitch.


Thank you


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, this may be a little off the subject but I'll go ahead anyway.
> 
> 
> I purchased a used 50V from a owner on Audiogon a couple of weeks ago. And thanks to all of you I am enjoying it very much. I doubt if I could have set it up to function as well as it does without soaking up a lot of knowledge from the users on this forum.
> 
> 
> I have listed my old processor for sale on Audiogon and when I went to see how it's doing today I cannot enter their site. It looks like their domain name needs to be renewed or the name is for sale.
> 
> 
> Anyhow, I thought I would post it here as I'm sure many of you have used Audiogon in the past when buying or selling equipment and if fact may have items for sale now as I have.



Maybe you should try again.

John


----------



## Arcadeus

Hey all, i ran Arc for the first time a week ago and everything sounds good but i was reading through some info on this forum and there was a post about setting up the spl from the speakers a certain way before you run arc because of some glitch...


has this been fixed with the newest arc version (i thought arc sets your spl)?


also any word on the 1.4a update? i heard they were doing a new graphical interface update as well...


----------



## Arcadeus

audiogon comes up but i cant seem to open any of the classified listings....


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Arcadeus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey all, i ran Arc for the first time a week ago and everything sounds good but i was reading through some info on this forum and there was a post about setting up the spl from the speakers a certain way before you run arc because of some glitch...
> 
> 
> has this been fixed with the newest arc version (i thought arc sets your spl)?
> 
> 
> also any word on the 1.4a update? i heard they were doing a new graphical interface update as well...



Use the method Bob posted on the first page, FAQ. Not sure what glitch you're referring to. There is no change to the GUI that I'm aware of on the D2 or D2v.

John


----------



## Shayne2

Hi


I have been playing with the Max EQ and curves in arc. Attached are my curves for 5000, 11000 and 15000. The 11000 is the closest to target. Comments, thoughts would be appreciated.


Regrads

 

Max EQ.pdf 132.1298828125k . file


----------



## jayray

you should post your Target window as well.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/20462255
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> I have been playing with the Max EQ and curves in arc. Attached are my curves for 5000, 11000 and 15000. The 11000 is the closest to target. Comments, thoughts would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Regrads



personnally the 15,000 loks better and flatter at the high end.

Have you been altering the crossovers or cutoffs ?

Looks like there is a big gap between the sub crossover and you left and right fronts.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20462502
> 
> 
> personnally the 15,000 loks better and flatter at the high end.
> 
> Have you been altering the crossovers or cutoffs ?
> 
> Looks like there is a big gap between the sub crossover and you left and right fronts.



No the only thing that has been altered is Max Eq. and sub to flat


Regards


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/20463384
> 
> 
> No the only thing that has been altered is Max Eq. and sub to flat
> 
> 
> Regards



FWIW, Anthem tech support is pretty adament about leaving the 'max eq' set at 5000k.

I, for one, believe them.


Your charts may look better at higher eq settings, but the engineers that developed ARC have decided that the 5000k is the optimal setting for listening.


You alone will be the final judge of what setting is best for you, and I encourage you to tweek your ARC setting to get it the best you can, but use you ears, not your eyes, to judge the results.


BTW, your charts look very good. The only changes I would make would be to set your sub to flat (like you did) and to bump up the room gain to the 2-2.5 range.


Tom


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19550511
> 
> 
> Looks good to me. Now try sneaking up Room Gain, keeping an eye in particular on sub at 50Hz and LF/RF at 200Hz for under correction.
> 
> 
> When you get a handle on how far you can push Room Gain, check the rest of the Calculated curves for smoothness, and if you see any problems, dial it back a bit, or dial back Max EQ Frequency, or both, looking for a sweet spot.
> 
> 
> If you can get near 2dB of Room Gain out of a 10KHz solution without the quality of the curves breaking down you should have something that sounds excellent.
> 
> --Bob



Could someone explain what it is we are looking for in "under correction" in the chart. Would this be calculated below target?


Regards


----------



## Arcadeus

Quote "Prior to running the ARC measurements, there is another step to do to get the test tone volumes correct:


Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB. Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up). Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.


[ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]


Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position. There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient."



This is the bug i was referring to in my earlier quote...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Arcadeus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quote "Prior to running the ARC measurements, there is another step to do to get the test tone volumes correct:
> 
> 
> Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB. Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up). Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.
> 
> 
> [ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]
> 
> 
> Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position. There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient."
> 
> 
> This is the bug i was referring to in my earlier quote...



That doesn't affect anything except when doing the test tone. That isn't a bug in ARC.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/20464643
> 
> 
> Could someone explain what it is we are looking for in "under correction" in the chart. Would this be calculated below target?
> 
> 
> Regards



Shayne:


In your case, you have large dips in your LF speaker betweem 40 - 100Hz. This limits the low-end roll off response that ARC has calculated. If you can move or re-position it, do so to see if that dip is reduced. If not, then by raising your room gain to between 2.0 - 3.0, you can have ARC add some gain in that region which will extend the roll off of the LF speaker. Watch out for the error 'wiggles' in your calculated graph and optimize the gain for the least amount error.


But finally, let your ears do the judging. Especially watch for 'chestiness' in male voices. There should be none, if at all


----------



## Arcadeus

sorry to belabor a point but i just want to make sure that i get this ... so what you are saying is that i can run arc independently of setting up this noise level and it will work fine.... i dont have an spl meter currently...


Mark


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Arcadeus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> sorry to belabor a point but i just want to make sure that i get this ... so what you are saying is that i can run arc independently of setting up this noise level and it will work fine.... i dont have an spl meter currently...
> 
> 
> Mark



No, you need to do the levels first. Zero out everything. Then set the front left speaker and sub to 75dB. The sub is adjusted on the back where the level control should be. Once this is done, run ARC. Most use the Radio Shack analog version.

John


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20465631
> 
> 
> Shayne:
> 
> 
> In your case, you have large dips in your LF speaker betweem 40 - 100Hz. This limits the low-end roll off response that ARC has calculated. If you can move or re-position it, do so to see if that dip is reduced. If not, then by raising your room gain to between 2.0 - 3.0, you can have ARC add some gain in that region which will extend the roll off of the LF speaker. Watch out for the error 'wiggles' in your calculated graph and optimize the gain for the least amount error.
> 
> 
> But finally, let your ears do the judging. Especially watch for 'chestiness' in male voices. There should be none, if at all



Please check the bottom of page 1114 for speaker positions (comments appreciated). I knocked out a lot of walls here (farm house) and a/v is in one 1800 ft2 open space pretty much. It is off in the dark side and the only speaker close to a wall is the left (8') the other side 40 - 50'. I have moved and twisted as foobaring for a number of hours and the best stereo (sub switched off) was with the fronts at about 30 degrees (6' to center) and a toe in about the same (bit less). I am not much of a theater buff but the tunes sound incredible with this anthem gear. Possibly the left woofers are weak they have been put out wet a couple of times ;-) I will check.

When you mention wiggles would they be what is seen from 200 to 2000 hz in my 11000 and 15000 max eq pdf charts (attached above) and if so is the amplitude in those charts acceptable?


Regards


----------



## Arcadeus

Thanks for the info... i just ordered a spl meter


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Arcadeus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info... i just ordered a spl meter



It's easy to do just make sure no one in the house is making noise when you start









John


----------



## newfer

Help!

I Have lost the rs 232 cable that comes with the D2. What can I use instead ? Normal Usb to DB 9 connector dosent work( connector cannot connect to rear of D2) .I live in Asia and we dont have a Anthem dealer here.

Thanks


----------



## rovingtravler

Any RS232 with 2bit stop will work. and or you can buy a 232 and usb adaptor. I have a usb to 232 adaptor and it works without any issues.


You can buy on Ebay or raido shack etc. still available almost everywhere.


----------



## newfer

Thanks for your quick reply! I am unable to plug my USB to rs 232 adapter because the rs 232 plug will not plug in to the back of my D2. The d 2 has female plugs for the screws and so does the db 9, so they are preventing the rs 232 from plugging into the d2's slot.

Sorry about my bad English description.

Thanks again


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfer* /forum/post/20467353
> 
> 
> Thanks for your quick reply! I am unable to plug my USB to rs 232 adapter because the rs 232 plug will not plug in to the back of my D2. The d 2 has female plugs for the screws and so does the db 9, so they are preventing the rs 232 from plugging into the d2's slot.
> 
> Sorry about my bad English description.
> 
> Thanks again



Sometimes when you have the incorrect matching locking screw setup you can unscrew the female nuts from the RS232 cable to allow the connectors to be inserted into the D2. Or use a RS232 adapter.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20463552
> 
> 
> FWIW, Anthem tech support is pretty adament about leaving the 'max eq' set at 5000k.
> 
> I, for one, believe them..............
> 
> Tom



It has been said that the mic readings at higher frequencies may not be accurate.


If you look at the charts from various posters here, you may have noticed a common feature that usually between 5kHz and 10kHz, the measured (red) graphs start to dip substantially.


So if we therefore attempt to correct those frequencies above 5kHz, it is possible that we may end up with exaggerated highs and your speakers can sound bright ,which is often mistaken for extended highs. Moreover, the resources ARC expanded in correcting those frequencies is done at the expense of the lower frequencies correction where it is more crucial to get right. This is clear from a comparison of the charts at different maximum correction levels. You will see more and more wiggles on the green line at frequencies below 500Hz as the max is raised.


That's why Anthem recommends against correction above 5kHz. Be that as it may be, not everyone's hearing is identical, so folks with less hearing ability at *normal* high frequencies or those with substantially dampened rooms may find raising the max correction above 5kHz more preferable to listen to.


Ben


----------



## Texas steve

And dont forget to:

1. unplug the phone

2. turn off your cell phone

3. put a muzzle on your dog (not your wife)

4. any wind up clocks with "tick,tick" and/or chimes


Each of the above have got me at one point or another during my various ARC's!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20466573
> 
> 
> It's easy to do just make sure no one in the house is making noise when you start
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## JimP

To add to your list


Sister in law not understanding what "no sound whatsoever" means.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20464923
> 
> 
> That doesn't affect anything except when doing the test tone. That isn't a bug in ARC.
> 
> John



So it goes unfixed?


----------



## Kensmith48

Add the furnace, air conditioning, and the hot water heater vent.


----------



## Texas steve

Opps, forgot about AC! Several times I had a jet fly over, now THAT will screw ARC up!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/20468085
> 
> 
> Add the furnace, air conditioning, and the hot water heater vent.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> So it goes unfixed?



It's a glitch in the test tone generated in the D2v not ARC per se as stated. Doesn't mean it won't get fixed.

John


----------



## TJG55

Not to mention next door neighbor intermittantly weed eating! This was in the early days when ONE error required a complete restart! Took over 2 hrs to get measurements. Then there was the mother who would not control THE BRAT, after several hrs we just quit. Some people don't deserve ARC! You guys don't know how lucky you are htat an error lets you restart from that point onward.

TJG


----------



## studlygoorite

Also, cut your dog's toenails if you have a wooden floor above your AV Room.


----------



## scheong

After listening to the AVM50v as is out of the box for almost a month, I have played with ARC for about a week. Attached is my graphs and target window. Looking forward to any comments.


With ARC, male vocal sounds "clearer". And the sound stage feels bigger.


Seeing all the messages today about unwanted noise during ARC just brought a knowing grin to my face.










Stanley

 

ARC_110519.doc 437.5k . file


----------



## ninja12

Quote:

Originally Posted by *scheong* 
After listening to the AVM50v as is out of the box for almost a month, I have played with ARC for about a week. Attached is my graphs and target window. Looking forward to any comments.


With ARC, male vocal sounds "clearer". And the sound stage feels bigger.


Seeing all the messages today about unwanted noise during ARC just brought a knowing grin to my face.










Stanley
Overall, your charts look really good. The only thing you need to play around with is your sub. You have over a 10db drop between 50Hz and 80Hz which means you are missing out on a good chunk of bass. You should try to eliminate that dip by trying different sub positions. You can use Quick Measure to see if you are making improvements as you move your sub around. The position that removes most or all of the dip is where you want to leave your sub providing you can do that. Sometimes you have to compromise when you are sharing living space. Anyway, listen to what you have first for a little while and then experiment with different sub positions. If you have a sub position that improves your sub's frequencies, you will have to do another full ARC Measurement.


Good Luck!!!!!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> overall, your charts look really good. The only thing you need to play around with is your sub. You have over a 10db drop between 50hz and 80hz which means you are missing out on a good chunk of bass. You should try to eliminate that dip by trying different sub positions. You can use quick measure to see if you are making improvements as you move your sub around. The position that removes most or all of the dip is where you want to leave your sub providing you can do that. Sometimes you have to compromise when you are sharing living space. Anyway, listen to what you have first for a little while and then experiment with different sub positions. If you have a sub position that improves your sub's frequencies, you will have to do another full arc measurement.
> 
> 
> Good luck!!!!!



+1


----------



## scheong

Thanx ninja and jayray for the sub suggestion. I will listen to what I have for a bit and then play around with sub positions.


Stanley


----------



## hantman

So I just moved into a new house and built a theater room, 13' x 23'. I ran ARC 3.01 on my AVM-50 once everything was done and I see some odd things on previously easy equipment, wondering if anyone has some thoughts on the attached.


I am using Martin Logan Spires for fronts, Stage for center, and Descent for sub. The pre-ARC fronts are confusing me, and the sub measurements are the most troubling. I have two rows of chairs in the theater, and the back row is a few feet from the back wall, with the sub behind the back row close to a corner. Should I be moving it?


thanks for any help!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scheong* /forum/post/20470599
> 
> 
> Thanx ninja and jayray for the sub suggestion. I will listen to what I have for a bit and then play around with sub positions.
> 
> 
> Stanley



In addition, if your rears have a wall switch setting, please flip it for it will eliminate the very pronouced hump on the low end.


----------



## scheong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20470629
> 
> 
> In addition, if your rears have a wall switch setting, please flip it for it will eliminate the very pronouced hump on the low end.



Nope, there is no wall switch setting on the DS3s.










Stanley


----------



## newfer

Hello,

I just bought a used d2 with arc. I have been trying to set up the arc using a usb serial adapter. When all connections are made and I run the software the program runs for about 30 seconds then it says "cannot find d1/d2" what am I doing wrong?

I dont have the rs 232 cable that came with the d2 so i am using the serial usb adapter and one male and female db9 (same gender)to connect to the d2 rs 232 port.

Any help would be great!


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hantman* /forum/post/20470610
> 
> 
> So I just moved into a new house and built a theater room, 13' x 23'. I ran ARC 3.01 on my AVM-50 once everything was done and I see some odd things on previously easy equipment, wondering if anyone has some thoughts on the attached.
> 
> 
> I am using Martin Logan Spires for fronts, Stage for center, and Descent for sub. The pre-ARC fronts are confusing me, and the sub measurements are the most troubling. I have two rows of chairs in the theater, and the back row is a few feet from the back wall, with the sub behind the back row close to a corner. _Should I be moving it?_
> 
> thanks for any help!



The first thing you need to do is set your speaker level. Your charts are all running along the 60dB line instead of the 75dB.

Get out your SPL meter and recheck your levels in your new room.


Your fronts may need some repositioning. I would be interested to see how they look after your speaker level is set correctly.

Your sub definitly needs some repositioning. 'Quick Measure' is your freind. With subs, like real estate, location is everything. Unfortunatly, there is no magic position I can recommend. Away from corner, maybe. Front corner, maybe. Center of wall, maybe.Side wall, maybe.

Its trial and error, but with 'QM' the trial is much easier.


Good luck.


Tom


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/20467975
> 
> 
> And dont forget to:
> 
> 1. unplug the phone
> 
> 2. turn off your cell phone
> 
> 3. put a muzzle on your dog (not your wife)
> 
> 4. any wind up clocks with "tick,tick" and/or chimes
> 
> 
> Each of the above have got me at one point or another during my various ARC's!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/20468085
> 
> 
> Add the furnace, air conditioning, and the hot water heater vent.



You guys have too much superfluous junk in your rooms


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfer* /forum/post/20470707
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I just bought a used d2 with arc. I have been trying to set up the arc using a usb serial adapter. When all connections are made and I run the software the program runs for about 30 seconds then it says "cannot find d1/d2" what am I doing wrong?
> 
> I dont have the rs 232 cable that came with the d2 so i am using the serial usb adapter and one male and female db9 (same gender)to connect to the d2 rs 232 port.
> 
> Any help would be great!



Do you have the Tripplite Keyspan Model USA-19HS USB adapter ?

If not buy one ? It will solve the adapter problems.

Highly recommended by D2 and D2v users and now included in any D2v purchased by Anthem.


----------



## scheong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20470772
> 
> 
> Do you have the Tripplite Keyspan Model USA-19HS USB adapter ?
> 
> If not buy one ? It will solve the adapter problems.
> 
> Highly recommended by D2 and D2v users and now included in any D2v purchased by Anthem.



The Keyspan USB-RS232 adapter came with the 50v I bought last month also.










Stanley


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *newfer* /forum/post/20470707
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I just bought a used d2 with arc. I have been trying to set up the arc using a usb serial adapter. When all connections are made and I run the software the program runs for about 30 seconds then it says "cannot find d1/d2" what am I doing wrong?
> 
> I dont have the rs 232 cable that came with the d2 so i am using the serial usb adapter and one male and female db9 (same gender)to connect to the d2 rs 232 port.
> 
> Any help would be great!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20470772
> 
> 
> Do you have the Tripplite Keyspan Model USA-19HS USB adapter ?
> 
> If not buy one ? It will solve the adapter problems.
> 
> Highly recommended by D2 and D2v users and now included in any D2v purchased by Anthem.




Also make sure your rs-232 cable is 'straight thru' and *not* 'null modem'.


Tom


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hantman* /forum/post/20470610
> 
> 
> I am using Martin Logan Spires for fronts, Stage for center, and Descent for sub. The pre-ARC fronts are confusing me, and the sub measurements are the most troubling. I have two rows of chairs in the theater, and the back row is a few feet from the back wall, with the sub behind the back row close to a corner. Should I be moving it?
> 
> 
> thanks for any help!



As a user of the Descent, I can assure you that this creature is capable of exemplary performance if you set it down at the right location in your room. Follow the often repeated advice of fellow posters on how to go about locating the ideal spot for a sub. Once you have obtained a reasonably level response, don't be afraid to make use of the 25Hz and 50Hz controls to tweak for a smoother response before taking final ARC measurements. Set these controls at 0 while moving the sub around.


Because this sub is designed with 3 horizontal facing units, do note that while trying to locate a suitable location in the room, turning the sub on its axis with each unit facing a slightly different direction each time within a 120 deg arc can also alter the response curve.


As for the Stage, the best response is obtained when the unit is angled directly at the viewer's face. I use a touchlight at the level of my ears to shine at the electrostatic panel. When you can spot 2, yes, 2 bright spots properly centered on the panel with the the tweeter between them, that's it.


Have fun!

Ben


----------



## MACCA350

Had a really strange glitch the other day. Turned the system on to watch some recorded shows on the pvr and the center channel wasn't working. All others were working but not properly, they sounded like they were fading out and breaking up like a radio station that's not quite tuned in. The D2v was receiving 2channel PCM and I had PLIIx Movie set.


So I power cycled the D2v and that didn't help. I switched to the Blu-ray player and the misses had an old DVD which only had a stereo sound track. Same thing happened, no center channel and all others were on the fritz. So I stuck in a BD and low an behold with a 5.1 source it played fine.


So I switched back to the pvr and no go. Power cycled a few times and after a while it fixed itself. Very strange indeed. But even stranger is the problem wasn't static, ie the sound would fade up and down in level without touching volume control, just like a radio station that's not quite tuned in.


You could imagine my befuddlement for about 30min until this gremlin disappeared. What has me concerned is that there seems to be no reason that it occurred or why and how it fixed itself and it may occur at any time.


Very weird indeed, I've never had AV gear have a brain snap like that before.


Cheers


----------



## AVfile

You running sw v2.10 or 2.11?


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20477867
> 
> 
> You running sw v2.10 or 2.11?



V2.10


Cheers


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> V2.10
> 
> 
> Cheers



Email anthem and ask them for password to tech download page, if you don't already have it. Version 2.11 beta is working well so far. Should be released soon.

John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Version 2.11 beta is working well so far



What's new with this version? Or is it just more stable than 2.10?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20478949
> 
> 
> What's new with this version? Or is it just more stable than 2.10?



CHANGE LIST


v2.11 release candidate:


1. Adjusted HDMI drive impedance to prevent audio dropouts in some situations.


So far no issues for me. Don't know about others. The official one that will appear on the website will have a few other tweaks.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20478122
> 
> 
> Email anthem and ask them for password to tech download page, if you don't already have it. Version 2.11 beta is working well so far. Should be released soon.
> 
> John



My new D2v came with Ver 2.11 installed so Anthem may be taking this firmware out of Beta


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> My new D2v came with Ver 2.11 installed so Anthem may be taking this firmware out of Beta



They're still tweaking 2.11 which is why it still isn't on the website.

John


----------



## RobertR

Are the settings preserved (including ARC) when the software upgrade is made?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are the settings preserved (including ARC) when the software upgrade is made?



Yes. Make sure you do a save in the setup menu to make sure.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You have to Reset Factory Defaults prior to doing any Firmware Install.

*So be sure you Save User and/or Installer settings *FIRST*.* Then Reset Factory Defaults. Then do the Firmware Install. Then Reload from your Saved Settings.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20482696
> 
> 
> You have to Reset Factory Defaults prior to doing any Firmware Install.
> 
> *So be sure you Save User and/or Installer settings *FIRST*.* Then Reset Factory Defaults. Then do the Firmware Install. Then Reload from your Saved Settings.
> 
> --Bob



Well Said by *Bob Who*


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20482696
> 
> 
> You have to Reset Factory Defaults prior to doing any Firmware Install.
> 
> *So be sure you Save User and/or Installer settings *FIRST*.* Then Reset Factory Defaults. Then do the Firmware Install. Then Reload from your Saved Settings.
> 
> --Bob



Well Said by *Bob Who*


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20482696
> 
> 
> You have to Reset Factory Defaults prior to doing any Firmware Install.
> 
> *So be sure you Save User and/or Installer settings *FIRST*.* Then Reset Factory Defaults. Then do the Firmware Install. Then Reload from your Saved Settings.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, this is a great thread.


----------



## ehlarson

OK, here is a question that has been bugging me for a while regarding HT setups.


Suppose I am using a couple of different amp types with different voltage gains, say a pair of monoblocks for my front L+R and then a 5 channel amp for my center, surrounds and rears. The monoblocks have a voltage gain of 29 and the 5 channel amp has a voltage gain of 26.


Won't there be a volume tracking issue? That is as I turn up the volume won't the L+R volume increase faster than the other speakers?


Is there anything that the D2V can do to compensate for this? Will ARC compensate for this?


----------



## RobertR

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ehlarson* 
OK, here is a question that has been bugging me for a while regarding HT setups.


Suppose I am using a couple of different amp types with different voltage gains, say a pair of monoblocks for my front L+R and then a 5 channel amp for my center, surrounds and rears. The monoblocks have a voltage gain of 29 and the 5 channel amp has a voltage gain of 26.


Won't there be a volume tracking issue? That is as I turn up the volume won't the L+R volume increase faster than the other speakers?


Is there anything that the D2V can do to compensate for this? Will ARC compensate for this?
I don't think you're looking at voltage gain correctly. The monoblocks would have a power output of 105 watts into an 8 ohm impedance. The 5 channel would have 85 watts. That doesn't mean the monoblocks get to a given volume level "faster". The relative levels are set in the prepro.


----------



## rovingtravler

When you set the speaker level in the setup this should compensate for the diferent gain. You may have to increase the S and R speakers to reach 75 DB but once set the pre will increase linearly.


This is how I understand it. I am am wrong I am sure someone will correct me










I am in a similar situation and have had no issues with the sound being at the correct volume at all levels.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:

When you set the speaker level in the setup this should compensate for the diferent gain. You may have to increase the S and R speakers to reach 75 DB but once set the pre will increase linearly.


This is how I understand it. I am am wrong I am sure someone will correct me










I am in a similar situation and have had no issues with the sound being at the correct volume at all levels.
Quote:

When you set the speaker level in the setup this should compensate for the diferent gain. You may have to increase the S and R speakers to reach 75 DB but once set the pre will increase linearly. Can anyone verify that this is the case?


This is how I understand it. I am am wrong I am sure someone will correct me


I am in a similar situation and have had no issues with the sound being at the correct volume at all levels.
OK, let me explain my concern in a little more detail. When you turn up the volume on a preamp you are increasing the voltage on the amp input. The amp output then increases according to the amp gain. Now you use the Anthem to set all the speakers at 75db at one particular volume setting they all match at that setting. However if you turn up the volume again, the voltage at the amp input terminals increases across all the amps by some amount. Since some of the amps have different voltage gains, the power output of the amps will increase at different rates for each voltage increment, and thus potentially the speaker output will increase at different rates. You may have a level match at that one volume setting, but nowhere else.


So as rovingtravler says, the level correction actually corrects the preamp gain so that the match is maintained across the whole volume range. That sounds pretty encouraging. Can anyone verify that this is the case?


----------



## RobertR

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ehlarson* 
Since some of the amps have different voltage gains, the power output of the amps will increase at different rates for each voltage increment
That's not correct. The rates are _not_ different for each voltage increment. As I said, the different voltage gains simply mean that the amps have different maximum power outputs into a given impedance.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20485421
> 
> 
> That's not correct. The rates are _not_ different for each voltage increment. As I said, the different voltage gains simply mean that the amps have different maximum power outputs into a given impedance.



That definition doesn't agree with anything else I have found on the Internet.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gain 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gain#Example 
http://www.diracdelta.co.uk/science/...in/source.html 
http://www.softwareforeducation.com/...age-GainWS.php


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20485846
> 
> 
> That definition doesn't agree with anything else I have found on the Internet.
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gain
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gain#Example
> http://www.diracdelta.co.uk/science/...in/source.html
> http://www.softwareforeducation.com/...age-GainWS.php



It does not say anywhere in the links you provided that the decibel gain from a given voltage increase depends on how many volts the amplifier is capable of putting out.


If Vout is 5 volts greater than Vin in the below formula, it doesn't magically become 8 volts greater in the monoblocks:











It's the same 5 volt increase, and will result in an identical dB gain.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20485876
> 
> 
> It does not say anywhere in the links you provided that the decibel gain from a given voltage increase depends on how many volts the amplifier is capable of putting out.



Yes, if you are at the max output of the amp your gain will not be a constant as you increase the input voltage. However that doesn't affect the definition of voltage gain as being Vout/Vin. This variation in gain with input is what is called clipping. The waveform changes that occur due to the variable gain are the distortion of the signal that occurs at clipping.


Below that max power output the voltage gain should be a constant. An ideal amp would have constant gain over all combinations of input and output voltages. Of course no such thing exists.


In regard to the equation you showed, lets consider 2 amps, Amp1 with a gain of 2, and the Amp2 with a gain of 10. With amp1 if I increase the input voltage (if I am below the max power output) from 1V to 2V the output voltage will increase according to the gain formula


With amp1 if I increase the input voltage (if I am below the max power output) from 1V to 2V the output voltage will increase according to the gain formula.


With amp2 if I increase the input voltage (if I am below the max power output) from 1V to 2V the output voltage will increase according to the gain formula. Since the gain for this amp is higher the voltage increase will be larger.


Plug the numbers in and solve the equations for yourself to see the impact of the different gains on output voltage.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20486000
> 
> 
> Below that max power output the voltage gain should be a constant.



That's exactly my point. Vout/Vin will be the same for all amps below their maximum output, regardless of whether or not the maximum output is the same.


I think you're confused about what the voltage gain spec is for amps. It doesn't mean "the voltage gain for any given voltage input". It means the voltage gain for the amp at the _rated_ voltage input. If that weren't the case, the monoblocks would _always_ put out 29 volts, regardless of what the preamp puts out. In other words, you seem to think Vout is _always_ 29 for the monoblocks in the formula I cited.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20486040
> 
> 
> That's exactly my point. Vout/Vin will be the same for all amps below their maximum output, regardless of whether or not the maximum output is the same.
> 
> 
> I think you're confused about what the voltage gain spec is for amps. It doesn't mean "the voltage gain for any given voltage input". It means the voltage gain for the amp at the rated voltage input. If that weren't the case, the monoblocks would _always_ put out 29 volts, regardless of what the preamp puts out. In other words, you seem to think Vout is _always_ 29 for the monoblocks in the formula I cited.



Vout/Vin is not the same for all amps below their max output. Look at the gain equation. If Vout/Vin were the same for all amps then every amp would have the same gain. That is clearly not the case.


However Vout/Vin is the same for a given amp over a range of voltage inputs up until the max power has been reached. If it weren't the voltage waveform representing the music would be distorted by the amp.


Since the voltage gain is constant up until max power there is no sense to specify "at max output" because in fact the gain is the same at any output BELOW max output".


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20486489
> 
> 
> Vout/Vin is not the same for all amps below their max output. Look at the gain equation. If Vout/Vin were the same for all amps then every amp would have the same gain. That is clearly not the case.
> 
> 
> However Vout/Vin is the same for a given amp over a range of voltage inputs up until the max power has been reached. If it weren't the voltage waveform representing the music would be distorted by the amp.
> 
> 
> Since the voltage gain is constant up until max power there is no sense to specify "at max output" because in fact the gain is the same at any output BELOW max output".



I didn't say all amps have the same gain. I said the _ratio_ Vout/Vin would be the same for all amps.


If I input, say, 100 mV to amp A, it will have a certain output voltage (gain). If I input the same voltage to amp B, it may well have a different output voltage (gain). That's what the level adjustments are for in the prepro. It adjusts the voltage the prepro sends to each amp so they output the same decibel level through the speakers. If, however, I increase the voltage output (volume), the Vout/Vin for amp A will be the same as for amp B. So the decibel gain will be the same. You DO have to specify the input voltage for the gain, otherwise you'd be saying that the monoblocks put out 29V even if the prepro is only sending them 50 mv.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20486638
> 
> 
> I didn't say all amps have the same gain. I said the _ratio_ Vout/Vin would be the same for all amps.



So basically you are still saying the gain definition and equation from the several references I provided is wrong?


If the equation isn't wrong the gain is determined by Vout/Vin and nothing else. If Vout/Vin is the same then the gain is the same. You can't have a situation where Vout/Vin are the same and the gain is different with this equation.


Do you have another proposal as to how gain should be calculated? And references to back it up?


If you don't have an alternative I think we have reached an impasse here and I'm going to give up because everything else you are saying is in conflict with the well established definition of voltage gain I provided earlier.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20486774
> 
> 
> Do you have another proposal as to how gain should be calculated? And references to back it up?
> 
> 
> If you don't have an alternative I think we have reached an impasse here and I'm going to give up because everything else you are saying is in conflict with the well established definition of voltage gain I provided earlier.



Let me try citing the spec sheet from a Krell amp. It states:


Gain: 25.4 dB

Input sensitivity: 3.04V

Output voltage: 57V RMS


The dB gain is obviously a constant. The voltage gain for a 3.04 volt input is 57/3.04, or 18.75. if you take the log of 18.75 and multiply it by 20, you get 25.46, which agrees with the dB gain. Now obviously, if you only input ONE volt, the amp will put out less voltage (that's what the volume control is for). It should be obvious that the ratio needs to be a constant 18.75 for the gain to be constant. Now let's say that another amp puts out 40V, with an input sensitivity of 2V (voltage gain of 20). Let's further assume the same speakers. Do the math, and the amp has a gain of 26 db. So you decrease the level in the prepro by 0.6 dB to match the Krell. Now the two are matched. The Krell needs 1.07 times as much input voltage as the second amp to match output levels. So if you input 0.5 volt to the second amp, you input 0.535v to the Krell.


Now, if you increase the volume by 10 db, you need to increase the voltage to the second amp by a factor of 3.16. Now it's getting 1.58V. For the Krell, the factor is the same, so it's getting 1.69 volts. Vout/Vin is the same for both amps. So is the multiplication factor for the two amps. Note that I've _increased_ the volume while maintaining the _same_ voltage gain of each of the amps. Perhaps I didn't make myself clear earlier. Vout/Vin isn't the same for all dB increases, but it is the same for the voltage gain for a given amp.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20486994
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's getting 1.58V. For the Krell, the factor is the same, so it's getting 1.69 volts. Vout/Vin is the same for both amps.



No. Vout is the same, but Vin isn't. Therefore Vout/Vin is different for the two amps.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20487669
> 
> 
> No. Vout is the same, but Vin isn't. Therefore Vout/Vin is different for the two amps.



Sorry, I should have said each amp. Anyway, I think my post answers your original question.


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20485148
> 
> 
> Since some of the amps have different voltage gains, the power output of the amps will increase at different rates for each voltage increment, and thus potentially the speaker output will increase at different rates.



No, you are incorrect, it is linear. This is why you adjust the levels individually that connect to the different amp inputs - so that the outputs track each other. Don't assume there is a one to one correspondence between voltage and power!


Rather than challenge me to a game of 'my internet reference beats your internet reference' just think - if what you said were true, then NO ONE would ever be able to use different amps in a system if they didn't have 'matching voltage gains.' Every time you changed the volume, the relative balance would vary. And I think we all know that just doesn't happen.


----------



## benleeys

What about using speakers of different sensitivities in the system. Does that complicate things a bit in terms of sound volume?


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As long as the amps and speakers are linear in their response, none of these differences in gain or sensitivity make ANY difference in volume balance. You simply adjust the level of input to each amp channel so as to balance the resulting output of each speaker.


If the speakers are balanced at one audio content level they will remain balanced at other content levels because of the linear response on each amp+speaker path. This is not rocket science.


E.g., twice the input to each amp yields twice the output on each speaker regardless of amp gain or speaker sensitivity differences BECAUSE the response is linear. That's what linear means. It's the input levels that are different after you balance the channels, but that difference only has to be set once.


Problems only arise if you mismatch components so that they can't be operated linearly, such as by forcing an amp to clip or a speaker to bottom out or asking an amp to drive a speaker of such low sensitivity that the amp output can't handle the load.


So volume matching is not a problem.


Nevertheless, mixing different components may be undesirable for other reasons, such as timbre mismatches between different speaker designs, or variation in ability to track transients in different amp designs. These can produce a lack of seamless blending in the surround field.

--Bob


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20488946
> 
> 
> As long as the amps and speakers are linear in their response, none of these differences in gain or sensitivity make ANY difference in volume balance. You simply adjust the level of input to each amp channel so as to balance the resulting output of each speaker.
> 
> 
> If the speakers are balanced at one audio content level they will remain balanced at other content levels because of the linear response on each amp+speaker path. This is not rocket science.



Yes, ultimately this was my question - whether the volume matching process adjusts the preamp gain or just the preamp voltage level. I hadn't considered the fact that there are also speakers in the system with their own gains which of course would never work if the level matching system only adjusted the preamp level even if all the amps in the system had the same gain. If the system response (R) is linear (which it has to be) it follows the relation R = gain*input + constant. The preamp level match could work be setting the preamp gain or the constant to get a level match. I'm confident now that it adjusts the preamp gain.


Thanks to all who answered my question. Now all I have to do is wait for my monoblocks to arrive.

























> Quote:
> Nevertheless, mixing different components may be undesirable for other reasons, such as timbre mismatches between different speaker designs, or variation in ability to track transients in different amp designs. These can produce a lack of seamless blending in the surround field.



Not to mention effects of room location etc. These are non-linear and we are hoping for ARC someday to fix all of them.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20487669
> 
> 
> No. Vout is the same, but Vin isn't. Therefore Vout/Vin is different for the two amps.



No... the gain of an amp is constant for a given load (and if its not clipping) so if Vin changes, them Vo _*changes*_ as well to keep the gain constant.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20491835
> 
> 
> No... the gain of an amp is constant for a given load (and if its not clipping) so if Vin changes, them Vo _*changes*_ as well to keep the gain constant.



Go back and read the grandparent message. There are two different amps involved here.


----------



## SimonNo10

I've just received my Oppo BDP-95 replacing my BD-83, under video what's the best option for watching Blurays, Source direct or select 1080p or Auto?


----------



## rovingtravler

I use 1080p or auto. Source direct bypasses all the great features of the 95... if you use that you might as well have stayed with the 83.


I use 1080p so the Anthem does not try to hunt for a certain type of signal and take to long. I then have my DVD video settings for BD 1, DVD 2, Streaming 3, in the Anthem setup


----------



## Arcadeus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20466260
> 
> 
> No, you need to do the levels first. Zero out everything. Then set the front left speaker and sub to 75dB. The sub is adjusted on the back where the level control should be. Once this is done, run ARC. Most use the Radio Shack analog version.
> 
> John



I told my installer about this and he said he had never heard of this glitch... he talked to anthem directly and they basically said that this is an old issue and there is currently no such problem??????


Can anyone confirm this?


Bob where are you!!! LOL


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Arcadeus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I told my installer about this and he said he had never heard of this glitch... he talked to anthem directly and they basically said that this is an old issue and there is currently no such problem??????
> 
> 
> Can anyone confirm this?
> 
> 
> Bob where are you!!! LOL



What glitch are you referring to? Here is the advice given by Bob to set the Volume levels.

*Prior to running the ARC measurements, there is another step to do to get the test tone volumes correct:


Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB. Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up). Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.


Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position. There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.


ARC will use the Noise Level setting you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones, and the adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, can be level adjusted properly to match. If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.


Back out of the Setup menu. Run the ARC application.*


John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I use 1080p or auto. Source direct bypasses all the great features of the 95... if you use that you might as well have stayed with the 83.
> 
> 
> I use 1080p so the Anthem does not try to hunt for a certain type of signal and take to long. I then have my DVD video settings for BD 1, DVD 2, Streaming 3, in the Anthem setup



Cool thanks for that


----------



## Texas steve

I would be interested in your comparison between the two units as it relates to sound and picture quality.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20496205
> 
> 
> I've just received my Oppo BDP-95 replacing my BD-83, under video what's the best option for watching Blurays, Source direct or select 1080p or Auto?


----------



## myc52002

I need a confirmation about Zone 2 and ARC. Can't find any clear answer to this. The ARC solution is not passed on to zone 2 correct? It remains a pass through signal if I understand correctly. I pass analog to that zone, no digital copy conversion. So even though I have ARC on for each source it is only applicable to the main zone right?


I remeasured ARC for my main room due to some new speakers and once it was completed it seems as though the bass I receive in zone 2 is quite diminished from previous to the remeasure. Just want to eliminate this as an issue since I can't yet find any other explanation.


Thanks


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002* /forum/post/20498153
> 
> 
> I need a confirmation about Zone 2 and ARC. Can't find any clear answer to this. The ARC solution is not passed on to zone 2 correct? It remains a pass through signal if I understand correctly. I pass analog to that zone, no digital copy conversion. So even though I have ARC on for each source it is only applicable to the main zone right?
> 
> 
> I remeasured ARC for my main room due to some new speakers and once it was completed it seems as though the bass I receive in zone 2 is quite diminished from previous to the remeasure. Just want to eliminate this as an issue since I can't yet find any other explanation.
> 
> 
> Thanks



ARC is not passed through to Zone 2 or 3.


----------



## Arcadeus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20496483
> 
> 
> What glitch are you referring to? Here is the advice given by Bob to set the Volume levels.
> 
> *Prior to running the ARC measurements, there is another step to do to get the test tone volumes correct:
> 
> 
> Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB. Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up). Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.
> 
> 
> Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position. There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.
> 
> 
> ARC will use the Noise Level setting you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones, and the adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, can be level adjusted properly to match. If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.
> 
> 
> Back out of the Setup menu. Run the ARC application.*
> 
> 
> John



Thats the glitch im refering to.... apparently you do not have to do this anymore as per anthems response... is this the case.... has anyone tried just running it before setting it up with an spl meter?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Arcadeus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thats the glitch im refering to.... apparently you do not have to do this anymore as per anthems response... is this the case.... has anyone tried just running it before setting it up with an spl meter?



It has ALWAYS been the case that for many folks it would "just work" if you ran ARC. Either because you had previous trim values from a prior setup, or because all your speakers and sub were already reasonably matched on their own.


The procedure for pre-setting the volume trims prior to running ARC, simply avoids issues for others and doesn't hurt for the folks who don't really need to do it.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Arcadeus* /forum/post/20500639
> 
> 
> Thats the glitch im refering to.... apparently you do not have to do this anymore as per anthems response... is this the case.... has anyone tried just running it before setting it up with an spl meter?



Since ARC is made to be run at 75dB, and the ARC microphones are calibrated at 75dB, why wouldn't you want to do the 'step' (glitch) of setting your speaker/sub levels at 75dB ??


The whole process takes less time to do than you have spent posting about it.


Also, there is another step (or glitch, if you prefer) you need to do. The speaker distances need to be put into the Anthem's setup menu by you. Distances are not automatically set by ARC.

You will need to get out a tape measure and input each speaker distance from the primary listening position and enter it into the setup menu.

If I remember correctly, this can be done either before or after running ARC.


Tom


----------



## rovingtravler

Can someone that uses an Oppo 93 with DVD contaent post their settings?


I am still getting a green screen many times when watching a DVD through the AVM 50v 2.11


I have the oppo set at 1080p /60 the anthem is set to receive 1080 and output 1080/60 however I can never get a good lock. I just get a green picture with correct 5.1 sound. When I switch to 1080/24 output I get the correct video and sound, but I want to avoid the extra processing.


Any ideas? Do I have something messed up in the video section of the the AVM? I never had this problem before I put the AVM into the mix.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20504351
> 
> 
> Can someone that uses an Oppo 93 with DVD contaent post their settings?
> 
> 
> I am still getting a green screen many times when watching a DVD through the AVM 50v 2.11
> 
> 
> I have the oppo set at 1080p /60 the anthem is set to receive 1080 and output 1080/60 however I can never get a good lock. I just get a green picture with correct 5.1 sound. When I switch to 1080/24 output I get the correct video and sound, but I want to avoid the extra processing.
> 
> 
> Any ideas? Do I have something messed up in the video section of the the AVM? I never had this problem before I put the AVM into the mix.



1080p/24 is half the bandwidth on the cable as 1080p/60. So what you are reporting strongly suggests you have a marginal HDMI cable. It could be the cable is not fully seated in the socket at both ends (straight in, with nothing tugging it any direction) or that the cable is too long. If you have HDMI Options Deep Color set to 36 or 30 bit in the Oppo that is also increasing the bandwidth on the cable.


There are two different types of communication on the cable and either can fail. The type that deals with setup can be simplified by using explicit settings. So use explicit 1080p in the Oppo (not Auto), and use, say, HDMI Color Space YCbCr 4:4:4 instead of Auto.


Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so your problem could actually be in the cable from the Anthem to your display -- and yes, that's true even if there isn't a problem from your other sources since they are not likely sending the high bandwidth deep color 1080p/60 signals.

--Bob


----------



## rovingtravler

Bob,


MY issue is that when using a DVD upscaled by the oppo throught the AVM I have a green screen, but only sometimes. However running everything the same from the oppo to the avm to the pj 1080 24 everything is fine.


I will try changing the cables. I have a long run at 35 feet, however as I stated. The green obnly happens about half the time.



Anybody have aany recommendations on a boosted cable or a "high speed" 35 foot run?


----------



## Texas steve

I have this cable in a 50' connected from my Anthem to Panny 4000 projector with zero issues! http://www.hdtvsupply.com/1080p-flat-hdmi-cable.html 




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20504984
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> MY issue is that when using a DVD upscaled by the oppo throught the AVM I have a green screen, but only sometimes. However running everything the same from the oppo to the avm to the pj 1080 24 everything is fine.
> 
> 
> I will try changing the cables. I have a long run at 35 feet, however as I stated. The green obnly happens about half the time.
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody have aany recommendations on a boosted cable or a "high speed" 35 foot run?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> MY issue is that when using a DVD upscaled by the oppo throught the AVM I have a green screen, but only sometimes. However running everything the same from the oppo to the avm to the pj 1080 24 everything is fine.
> 
> 
> I will try changing the cables. I have a long run at 35 feet, however as I stated. The green obnly happens about half the time.
> 
> 
> Anybody have aany recommendations on a boosted cable or a "high speed" 35 foot run?



I have a 40' cable from monoprice that cost me $100 and I have my oppo set to all the highest settings for video and no problems.

John


----------



## rovingtravler

Thanks for the cable recommendations. I have a high quality "high speed" cable that is 4K certified so I would think at 35 feet it would not be an issue. I have tried the same set up with only a 6 ft cable and get the same results so I do not think it is do to cable length or quality. The 6 ft is also 4K certified. I will have to check with tech support and see what they think.


----------



## Arcadeus

Just fyi tngiloy, this is what i was referring to... not the edited version that someone else posted....[ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]


as you can see, i wasn't the first to call this a bug/glitch.... Bob did... so you see there is a difference between a glitch and a step after all....


but thanks everyone for your explanations... i have an installer doing the initial setup of my screen and im getting his opinion on my sound setup as well... and for what he is charging i want to make sure that it is being done correctly...


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Arcadeus*
Just fyi tngiloy, this is what i was refering to... not the edited version that someone else posted....[ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]


as you can see, i wasnt the first to call this a bug/glitch.... Bob did... so you see there is a difference between a glitch and a step after all....
The speaker calibration step has been a practice since my AVM 50 over 3 years ago, so I have no idea why an apparent glitch would be with us for this long. If you or your installer don't want to do it we'll tell the ARC Police to leave you alone.

John


----------



## Arcadeus

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Texas steve* 
I have this cable in a 50' connected from my Anthem to Panny 4000 projector with zero issues! http://www.hdtvsupply.com/1080p-flat-hdmi-cable.html
i have trouble with my d2v handshaking with my computer occasionally... i just switch back to a different source and then back to the proper source... this causes it to initiate its handshake again and usually brings the picture back up....


----------



## Arcadeus

i was just saying that i wasn't the one that initially called it a bug... (or glitch)


Its not that i dont want to do this "step" either, i just want to make sure that, not having had any experience with ARC previously, it was setup correctly...


the manual says that ARC takes care of setting all the spl for the speakers and its not necessary to perform this manually... but the faq said to do it.. so i was (past tense) wondering if that was an old part of the faq that never got updated when ARC came out with new versions... obviously (as i have been told), it works better if you continue to manually set the spl... which makes sense, especially in the case of the sub...


in any case if i have inadvertently insulted someone or said something that rubbed someone the wrong way, I apologize most wholeheartedly... it was never my intention and i wont say another thing about it.


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Arcadeus*
i was just saying that i wasn't the one that initially called it a bug... (or glitch)


Its not that i dont want to do this "step" either, i just want to make sure that, not having had any experience with ARC previously, it was setup correctly...


the manual says that ARC takes care of setting all the spl for the speakers and its not necessary to perform this manually... but the faq said to do it.. so i was (past tense) wondering if that was an old part of the faq that never got updated when ARC came out with new versions... obviously (as i have been told), it works better if you continue to manually set the spl... which makes sense, especially in the case of the sub...


in any case if i have inadvertently insulted someone or said something that rubbed someone the wrong way, I apologize most wholeheartedly... it was never my intention and i wont say another thing about it.
None taken. We just want people to get the most out of their pre/pros and it has been the majority opinion on this thread that this step helped get you there. If I recall correctly, not many have done it without the spl step so if anyone has and thinks it is unnecessary, let us know.

John


----------



## rovingtravler

I think I found the issue. Frame lock was not on. Once I reset this to on and saved to ensure it would not change the issue of the green screen did not come back for any of the three movies I watched.


----------



## usxplong

Any word on the latest F.W.?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any word on the latest F.W.?



2.11Beta is on the tech download page which requires the password from Anthem. It is very close to what the final version will be except for some very minor issues. Should be out soon on the website but the MRX receivers seem to be ahead of us for the short term.

John


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20509072
> 
> 
> 2.11Beta is on the tech download page which requires the password from Anthem. It is very close to what the final version will be except for some very minor issues. Should be out soon on the website but the MRX receivers seem to be ahead of us for the short term.
> 
> John



Thanks Jayray.

Do you know what will be fixed on the new F.W. and do we need to redo ARC?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usxplong* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Jayray.
> 
> Do you know what will be fixed on the new F.W. and do we need to redo ARC?



There was a change in the HDMI impedance(to fix some audio dropout issue) and some analog video issue. ARC will not have to be re done.

John


----------



## Texas steve

I wish they would change the delay time when you turn it on - in my opinion - they made it too long!







. In fact its so long that my wife thinks she hit the wrong buttons and starts pushing more buttons - yall know the result of that action!! Seriously it is too long!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20509792
> 
> 
> There was a change in the HDMI impedance(to fix some audio dropout issue) and some analog video issue. ARC will not have to be re done.
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wish they would change the delay time when you turn it on - in my opinion - they made it too long!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . In fact its so long that my wife thinks she hit the wrong buttons and starts pushing more buttons - yall know the result of that action!! Seriously it is too long!



I think that is so everything syncs better and you know what we think when things don't sync, don't we? Explain that to your wife









John


----------



## rovingtravler

Does anybody know what video chip is in the D2v and AVM50v


I know it is Sigma Designs VXP: Is it ithe GF9450, GF9452, or something else.


Just wondering as my projector has the 9450 in it. I thought it had the 9452 and a 12 bit video i.e. 36 deep color but it is only 30 bit total


----------



## rovingtravler

I guess the next question is should I use the "features" of the AVM or the projector when changing video settings?


I think, always a bad thing, that I should use the pj to correct to D65 and color space, but I am wondering about the other controls.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Always try to do all your video adjustment in the TV first. If the TV can't get close enough then refine using the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## rovingtravler

Thanks Bob


That is what I figured. The pj makes everything look great. I have all the settings in the AVM set to do as close to nothing as I can.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20509792
> 
> 
> There was a change in the HDMI impedance(to fix some audio dropout issue) and some analog video issue. ARC will not have to be re done.
> 
> John



i hope there also will fix the dts-hd dekoding issue. front L/R down by 3 db - overall volume is 3 db to high - only on dts-hd 5.1


----------



## dvcdude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess the next question is should I use the "features" of the AVM or the projector when changing video settings?
> 
> 
> I think, always a bad thing, that I should use the pj to correct to D65 and color space, but I am wondering about the other controls.



If you use CalMan as you calibration software, they will have interactive calibration of Anthem processor in an upcoming version. This will allow you to tweak beyond what your PJ can normally do.


----------



## rovingtravler

I did not know that about Calman adding Anthem to the list of supported devices.


Calman already controls my projector (Runco Q-750i) and makes it so much easier; otherwise there would be a ton of paging back and forth between menus. The DDC is a very nice feature.

I do use 4.2.2 right now with an i1-Pro


Do you know what it will control in the anthem? Just the video settings I assume?


----------



## usxplong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20509792
> 
> 
> There was a change in the HDMI impedance(to fix some audio dropout issue) and some analog video issue. ARC will not have to be re done.
> 
> John



Thanks.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> i hope there also will fix the dts-hd dekoding issue. front L/R down by 3 db - overall volume is 3 db to high - only on dts-hd 5.1



I assume you have notified Anthem of this.

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20507637
> 
> 
> I think I found the issue. Frame lock was not on. Once I reset this to on and saved to ensure it would not change the issue of the green screen did not come back for any of the three movies I watched.



I have problems watching DVDs with the video settings on Auto. Like Bob says the explicit settings are more robust, and even if someone is not having problems they should gain a little speed. Setting my BD player and the Anthem to output 4:2:2 is a definite must on my system. Everyone should run out and do this now IMHO.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20513346
> 
> 
> I assume you have notified Anthem of this.
> 
> John



Yes several times. No acknowledgement that it is an Anthem bug though.


I make a point of the minor bugs, even if they have workarounds, because I don't think they would be all that hard to fix and a new release is going to be prepared anyway. Also only a small percentage of owners are aware of the workarounds so fixing the little things makes for a better product.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20513346
> 
> 
> I assume you have notified Anthem of this.
> 
> John



Many times. I'am not the only one.


----------



## rovingtravler

AVFile,


I do have everything set to 4:2:2 and nothing to auto


Did you have frame lock on in the video settings? When I changed that from no to yes the Anthem picked up the correct signal right away.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Many times. I'am not the only one.



Give them a call for an update.

John


----------



## dvcdude

Quote:

Originally Posted by *rovingtravler*
I did not know that about Calman adding Anthem to the list of supported devices.


Calman already controls my projector (Runco Q-750i) and makes it so much easier; otherwise there would be a ton of paging back and forth between menus. The DDC is a very nice feature.

I do use 4.2.2 right now with an i1-Pro


Do you know what it will control in the anthem? Just the video settings I assume?
I would think this would be limited to the video...I believe it is scheduled for CalMan 4.2.3 maybe.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'd still remind folks that it is almost always better to do your video adjustment in the display -- closer to the pixels.


Do that FIRST, then, if you can't get as close to perfect as you want, refine from there using the tools in the Anthem.


The big exception to this is that you may need to experiment to determine the video output data format from the Anthem (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4 and choice of bit depth) that your display is happiest with.


Remember that the idea is to get the one, video arrangement that works "best" between the Anthem and your display. It then becomes the Anthem's job to convert whatever you present to it as input into that one, "best" form of output.

--Bob


----------



## rovingtravler

Bob,


With both my projector and Anthem having the same video chip and using an Oppo -93 would you recommend using 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 for BD at all three pieces of equipment?


Same for DVD?


Sorry for the questions. This is my first pre/pro with video processing all the others have been pass through.


Both settings seem to work when everything is set the same.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20511050
> 
> 
> Does anybody know what video chip is in the D2v and AVM50v
> 
> 
> I know it is Sigma Designs VXP: Is it ithe GF9450, GF9452, or something else.
> 
> 
> Just wondering as my projector has the 9450 in it. I thought it had the 9452 and a 12 bit video i.e. 36 deep color but it is only 30 bit total



Probably the 9452 since its 12-bits and not 3-D compatible. It used to be the chip made by Gennum before they were bought out by Sigma Designs.


----------



## sukumar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20507637
> 
> 
> I think I found the issue. Frame lock was not on. Once I reset this to on and saved to ensure it would not change the issue of the green screen did not come back for any of the three movies I watched.



Curious. What is frame lock?Do you set in blu-ray player?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20515754
> 
> 
> I have problems watching DVDs with the video settings on Auto. Like Bob says the explicit settings are more robust, and even if someone is not having problems they should gain a little speed. Setting my BD player and the Anthem to output 4:2:2 is a definite must on my system. Everyone should run out and do this now IMHO.




What is 4:2:2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sukumar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Curious. What is frame lock?Do you set in blu-ray player?
> 
> 
> What is 4:2:2?



See the tutorial post links collected in the first post of this thread.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20516458
> 
> 
> Give them a call for an update.
> 
> John



I have emailed them Many times . No answer


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have emailed them Many times . No answer



If this is determined by a test disk, I personally don't use them to tell me what sounds good or for that matter, what sounds correct. Most of what I play is DTS-MA 5.1 and I can't say anything is awry here. I have a 7.1 system but if I set it to 5.1, I can't tell any diff in levels, test disks a side.

John


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20522113
> 
> 
> If this is determined by a test disk, I personally don't use them to tell me what sounds good or for that matter, what sounds correct. Most of what I play is DTS-MA 5.1 and I can't say anything is awry here. I have a 7.1 system but if I set it to 5.1, I can't tell any diff in levels, test disks a side.
> 
> John



Dont you trim your speaker levels , so there are read 75 dB? Why bother if you dont care about the issue .

Maby i gets this wrong. If you frontspeakers play 3 dB lower than whats is intended......you dont care? Becurse that is the issue. The dialog is very pronounced, becurse the front Play 3 dB lower.

I hope you understand my bad english.

I coud hear that there was so thing wrong......and then i used the testdisk to confirm


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Dont you trim your speaker levels , so there are read 75 dB? Why bother if you dont care about the issue .
> 
> Maby i gets this wrong. If you frontspeakers play 3 dB lower than whats is intended......you dont care? Becurse that is the issue. The dialog is very pronounced, becurse the front Play 3 dB lower.
> 
> I hope you understand my bad english.
> 
> I coud hear that there was so thing wrong......and then i used the testdisk to confirm



Apparently this doesn't happen to many people and only with the AIX disk. I do trim my levels prior to ARC and do watch many DTS-MA movies but I apparently don't have the problem you're referring to. If it was an issue with decoding within the DTS chip, all of us would have it and that is clearly not the case.

John


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20522803
> 
> 
> Apparently this doesn't happen to many people and only with the AIX disk. I do trim my levels prior to ARC and do watch many DTS-MA movies but I apparently don't have the problem you're referring to. If it was an issue with decoding within the DTS chip, all of us would have it and that is clearly not the case.
> 
> John



Macca and Bob also have this issue.

When my Oppo bdp 83 dekoding the trim levels on the test disk is All fin.

Maby you like that the dialog is more pronounced. But it is not correct dekoding.

I have tested it on Real movies too.......and the problem is also there. I was using a radio shack.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Macca and Bob also have this issue.
> 
> When my Oppo bdp 83 dekoding the trim levels on the test disk is All fin.
> 
> Maby you like that the dialog is more pronounced. But it is not correct dekoding.
> 
> I have tested it on Real movies too.......and the problem is also there. I was using a radio shack.



I don't notice any diff with dialog using true hd vs DTS-MA. As I mentioned, I have a 7.1 system and don't have to down convert to 5.1 which I understand is the issue.

John


----------



## dmusoke

Does anyone know what the resolution of the ARC graphs is? Is it 1/3 octave smoothing (which is useless as it hides troublesome room modes) or one with finer resolution?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20523115
> 
> 
> I don't notice any diff with dialog using true hd vs DTS-MA. As I mentioned, I have a 7.1 system and don't have to down convert to 5.1 which I understand is the issue.
> 
> John



Macca posted the detailed results last year. It's complicated. It has to do with the audio track format as well as how many speakers you have. As best I can tell there's no change in the Beta D2v firmware.


Personally, I use LPCM exclusively from my Oppo 93 for everything now -- except of course when just testing stuff.


But folks should understand that Dolby and DTS have some weird rules for how this stuff gets decoded. For example, if a DTS 7.1 track is decoded for 5.1 speakers it is *NOT* as if the Bitstream gets decoded to 7.1 LPCM and then that gets down-mixed to 5.1. Instead, the DTS rules require a DIFFERENT type of decode for 5.1. So it could just be that DTS and Dolby have outsmarted themselves and Anthem is stuck -- since they have to follow the DTS and Dolby rules.


I *THINK* there are some bugs in the D2v on this, but what Macca detailed might not *ALL* be bugs.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20523794
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what the resolution of the ARC graphs is? Is it 1/3 octave smoothing (which is useless as it hides troublesome room modes) or one with finer resolution?



Use Quick Measure, start moving the speaker or the mic around, and see for yourself how the graphs change.


Note that the Measured curve in an ARC run is a simple, unweighted average of the set of mic positions, so the single curve shown for each speaker in the charts will naturally be smoothed by that averaging. The ARC calculation itself uses all the raw data. There's more going on under the hood than the simple charts can show.

--Bob


----------



## budeone

I have the avm-50V and using it with a Sony kds-xbr2 60 inch. ( http://reviews.cnet.com/projection-t...=mncolBtm;rnav )


I am thinking of going with the new Sony coming out. XBR HX929


The picture using my tv now is so good I just have a hard time believing with this Anthem the new set will have a better picture than I have now.


Will I really see a difference?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *budeone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the avm-50V and using it with a Sony kds-xbr2 60 inch. ( http://reviews.cnet.com/projection-t...=mncolBtm;rnav )
> 
> 
> I am thinking of going with the new Sony coming out. XBR HX929
> 
> 
> The picture using my tv now is so good I just have a hard time believing with this Anthem the new set will have a better picture than I have now.
> 
> 
> Will I really see a difference?



The single most important factor in image quality is the quality of the display. The Anthem can see to it that perfect content gets presented to the display as perfect digital video, but if the display can't render that perfectly then you will lose quality.


This, for example, is why I always tell people to try to do all their video adjustments FIRST using only the controls in the display (Source and Anthem picture controls at default settings).


I don't know enough about these two Sony displays to know if the newer one is better. There are certainly plenty of cases out there of newer models having bugs or even shoddy design so that they are NOT better. But if the newer display is better, odds are you will see it, even using the Anthem with both.


(And vice versa, of course!)

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20524839
> 
> 
> Macca posted the detailed results last year. It's complicated. It has to do with the audio track format as well as how many speakers you have. As best I can tell there's no change in the Beta D2v firmware.
> 
> 
> Personally, I use LPCM exclusively from my Oppo 93 for everything now -- except of course when just testing stuff.
> 
> 
> But folks should understand that Dolby and DTS have some weird rules for how this stuff gets decoded. For example, if a DTS 7.1 track is decoded for 5.1 speakers it is *NOT* as if the Bitstream gets decoded to 7.1 LPCM and then that gets down-mixed to 5.1. Instead, the DTS rules require a DIFFERENT type of decode for 5.1. So it could just be that DTS and Dolby have outsmarted themselves and Anthem is stuck -- since they have to follow the DTS and Dolby rules.
> 
> 
> I *THINK* there are some bugs in the D2v on this, but what Macca detailed might not *ALL* be bugs.
> 
> --Bob



Is there Any reason why you use pcm? Beside the DTS hd issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20525508
> 
> 
> Is there Any reason why you use pcm? Beside the DTS hd issue.



In the Oppo 93 and 95 (and UNLIKE the case for the Oppo 83 and 83se), the player will still decode and use the high-bit rate primary audio track when you have Secondary Audio on.


If Secondary Audio is ON, and secondary audio is present, then that gets mixed into the decoded, high-bit rate primary track without loss of quality. In particular, the number of speaker channels, the sample rate and the sample size of the high bit rate primary are preserved (e.g., 7.1 192KHz 24-bit for example).


If you use HDMI Audio LPCM for output, that then is what gets sent out from the player.


So if you use LPCM from the 93 or 95 you can leave Secondary Audio ON all the time and lose nothing.


If, on the other hand, you use HDMI Audio Bitstream, then the result from the decoding and mixing above must be RE-encoded, on-the-fly, back into a Bitstream.


The Oppo does that as 1.536 Mbps DTS 5.1. This is the "full bit rate" version of lossy DTS.


So the output is not the lossless primary audio you were expecting. In addition, 7.1 or 2.0 tracks get converted to 5.1 for output (down-mixed from 7.1 or with silence in the surrounds from 2.0). The net result is that if you are using Bitstream output, it is usually best to leave Secondary Audio OFF unless and until you decide to use a Blu-ray disc feature that is implemented as secondary audio. Most typically these are "picture in picture" (PIP) Commentary tracks. Secondary audio is also commonly used to implement "menu sound effect" in Blu-ray discs, but that's not particularly exciting.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20525539
> 
> 
> In the Oppo 93 and 95 (and UNLIKE the case for the Oppo 83 and 83se), the player will still decode and use the high-bit rate primary audio track when you have Secondary Audio on.
> 
> 
> If Secondary Audio is ON, and secondary audio is present, then that gets mixed into the decoded, high-bit rate primary track without loss of quality. In particular, the number of speaker channels, the sample rate and the sample size of the high bit rate primary are preserved (e.g., 7.1 192KHz 24-bit for example).
> 
> 
> If you use HDMI Audio LPCM for output, that then is what gets sent out from the player.
> 
> 
> So if you use LPCM from the 93 or 95 you can leave Secondary Audio ON all the time and lose nothing.
> 
> 
> If, on the other hand, you use HDMI Audio Bitstream, then the result from the decoding and mixing above must be RE-encoded, on-the-fly, back into a Bitstream.
> 
> 
> The Oppo does that as 1.536 Mbps DTS 5.1. This is the "full bit rate" version of lossy DTS.
> 
> 
> So the output is not the lossless primary audio you were expecting. In addition, 7.1 or 2.0 tracks get converted to 5.1 for output (down-mixed from 7.1 or with silence in the surrounds from 2.0). The net result is that if you are using Bitstream output, it is usually best to leave Secondary Audio OFF unless and until you decide to use a Blu-ray disc feature that is implemented as secondary audio. Most typically these are "picture in picture" (PIP) Commentary tracks. Secondary audio is also commonly used to implement "menu sound effect" in Blu-ray discs, but that's not particularly exciting.
> 
> --Bob



I have a Oppo bdp 83.

Beside the DTS hd demo er issue. What Will be the.......in regards for Best audio.......pcm or bitstream.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Oppo bdp 83.
> 
> Beside the DTS hd demo er issue. What Will be the.......in regards for Best audio.......pcm or bitstream.



Personally I use LPCM with my 83 as well, but accept for this issue under discussion, there's not much reason to pick one or the other.


Note that for both the 83 and the 93 there are some special cases where Bitstream is better. The Oppo players won't decode rear channel info matrixed into lossy 5.1 DTS ES tracks. If you have a 6.1 or 7.1 speaker setup, use Bitstream and the D2v will extract that rear channel info (rather than just producing it algorithmically as with PLIIx).


And there is one, rare format where the Oppo doesn't have the horse power to do the full decode. That is the one, specific case of 192KHz DTS HD-MA 5.1. The Oppo will decode that as 96KHz. Use Bitstream and the D2v will decode the full 192KHz.


The 83 (but not the 93) has another limitation worth noting. HDCD Decoding ON in the 83 will be ignored unless HDMI Audio LPCM is also set. Since the Anthems don't do HDCD decoding, that means HDCD discs play as if they were normal CDs.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Bob, I too have the 83 and I read back somewhere where you suggested using Bitstream vs LPCM.







So should I set mine now to LPCM (I only have a 5.1 lilke you




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20525828
> 
> 
> Personally I use LPCM with my 83 as well, but accept for this issue under discussion, there's not much reason to pick one or the other.
> 
> 
> Note that for both the 83 and the 93 there are some special cases where Bitstream is better. The Oppo players won't decode rear channel info matrixed into lossy 5.1 DTS ES tracks. If you have a 6.1 or 7.1 speaker setup, use Bitstream and the D2v will extract that rear channel info (rather than just producing it algorithmically as with PLIIx).
> 
> 
> And there is one, rare format where the Oppo doesn't have the horse power to do the full decode. That is the one, specific case of 192KHz DTS HD-MA 5.1. The Oppo will decode that as 96KHz. Use Bitstream and the D2v will decode the full 192KHz.
> 
> 
> The 83 (but not the 93) has another limitation worth noting. HDCD Decoding ON in the 83 will be ignored unless HDMI Audio LPCM is also set. Since the Anthems don't do HDCD decoding, that means HDCD discs play as if they were normal CDs.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/20526058
> 
> 
> Bob, I too have the 83 and I read back somewhere where you suggested using Bitstream vs LPCM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So should I set mine now to LPCM (I only have a 5.1 lilke you



There's really not much reason to prefer one over the other except for the few items we've been just discussing.


I'm a Beta tester for Oppo and since I'm using LPCM on the 93 (for the reason mentioned above), I use LPCM as well on the 83 for easy comparison.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20524839
> 
> 
> Macca posted the detailed results last year. It's complicated. It has to do with the audio track format as well as how many speakers you have. As best I can tell there's no change in the Beta D2v firmware.
> 
> 
> Personally, I use LPCM exclusively from my Oppo 93 for everything now -- except of course when just testing stuff.
> 
> 
> But folks should understand that Dolby and DTS have some weird rules for how this stuff gets decoded. For example, if a DTS 7.1 track is decoded for 5.1 speakers it is *NOT* as if the Bitstream gets decoded to 7.1 LPCM and then that gets down-mixed to 5.1. Instead, the DTS rules require a DIFFERENT type of decode for 5.1. So it could just be that DTS and Dolby have outsmarted themselves and Anthem is stuck -- since they have to follow the DTS and Dolby rules.
> 
> 
> I *THINK* there are some bugs in the D2v on this, but what Macca detailed might not *ALL* be bugs.
> 
> --Bob



Why ist it only Anthem there are Stock.? Many other brands like Denon etc dont have these issue. And i know that for a fact.

If i have to "trust" my processor. I need to know that things is working correct......and there dont. Dont get mé wrong. I Think Anthem is very Nice pease of gear......ARC and the Sound that i'ts produce are fantastic. but it is buggin mé that a Denon receiver for a fraction of the price, handles the standard correct. They have to solve the problem, if you ask me. I'ts like having a Ferrari, where the aircondition dont work. It drives fantastick, but there still is a issue ther have to be fixet . I know that i Can let my Oppo dekode..........but now there is a dekoder in the Anthem, it have to work correct.


Edit: i have a M&K s150 mkII 5.1 system. So in my case its not about matrixen more channels etc. In fact there are more issue with DTS hd 5.1 vs 7.1. There both have the fronts l/r 3 dB to low. But the 5.1 also play around 3 dB to high.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20528318
> 
> 
> Why ist it only Anthem there are Stock.? Many other brands like Denon etc dont have these issue. And i know that for a fact.
> 
> If i have to "trust" my processor. I need to know that things is working correct......and there dont. Dont get mé wrong. I Think Anthem is very Nice pease of gear......ARC and the Sound that i'ts produce are fantastic. but it is buggin mé that a Denon receiver for a fraction of the price, handles the standard correct. They have to solve the problem, if you ask me. I'ts like having a Ferrari, where the aircondition dont work. It drives fantastick, but there still is a issue ther have to be fixet . I know that i Can let my Oppo dekode..........but now there is a dekoder in the Anthem, it have to work correct.



I'm sorry, I can't answer "why" questions. Those need to be addressed to Anthem.


I can tell you that the rules for handling DTS are complex. Even bizarre. It wouldn't surprise me to learn Denon has it wrong, or that DTS has specified two different ways to do it "correctly" and both Denon and Anthem have it right, even though the results are different. Yes, that's nutty, but if this is what's up, it's not the first nutty thing DTS has done.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20528337
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, I can't answer "why" questions. Those need to be addressed to Anthem.
> 
> 
> I can tell you that the rules for handling DTS are complex. Even bizarre. It wouldn't surprise me to learn Denon has it wrong, or that DTS has specified two different ways to do it "correctly" and both Denon and Anthem have it right, even though the results are different. Yes, that's nutty, but if this is what's up, it's not the first nutty thing DTS has done.
> 
> --Bob



I know










I have used the work around. That have fixed the main problem. Let us see what happens. I still Sound fantastic. Better than my old lex


----------



## Mp0wer

I just picked up a Anthem 50v and I'm having a problem with the picture, it has a blue tearing effect.


Here is a video ----> 



 Me[/URL]


----------



## Texas steve

are you HDMI? re-seat both ends again, be sure there is no pull up/down on the connector at each end.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer* /forum/post/20529944
> 
> 
> I just picked up a Anthem 50v and I'm having a problem with the picture, it has a blue tearing effect.
> 
> 
> Here is a video ---->
> 
> 
> 
> Me[/URL]


----------



## rovingtravler

Mpower


Make sure you turn your projector or display on first. Once up and running turn your AVM on. Once that has finished the start up select the input i.e. DVD 1 or DVD 3 etc. Then turn on your source.


That has been my HDMI sync issue, I however was mostly getting a green screen. Depending on your projector you maywant to turn frame lock on if it is a fairly new pj. Also make sure your source the anthem and the the display are all set for the same resolution if possible and that is what you want.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mpower
> 
> 
> Make sure you turn your projector or display on first. Once up and running turn your AVM on. Once that has finished the start up select the input i.e. DVD 1 or DVD 3 etc. Then turn on your source.
> 
> 
> That has been my HDMI sync issue, I however was mostly getting a green screen. Depending on your projector you maywant to turn frame lock on if it is a fairly new pj. Also make sure your source the anthem and the the display are all set for the same resolution if possible and that is what you want.



This is called the "drhankz maneuver". Works for most syncing issues









John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20530131
> 
> 
> This is called the "drhankz maneuver". Works for most syncing issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Thank You Mr. John Anthem


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thank You Mr. John Anthem



Always welcome









John


----------



## Mp0wer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20530101
> 
> 
> Mpower
> 
> 
> Make sure you turn your projector or display on first. Once up and running turn your AVM on. Once that has finished the start up select the input i.e. DVD 1 or DVD 3 etc. Then turn on your source.
> 
> 
> That has been my HDMI sync issue, I however was mostly getting a green screen. Depending on your projector you maywant to turn frame lock on if it is a fairly new pj. Also make sure your source the anthem and the the display are all set for the same resolution if possible and that is what you want.



I think it was a bad firmware upgrade, I tried upgrading a second time and everything seems to be working great, it also cured my popping issue I was having when switching inputs and fast fowarding in Windows Media Player Home Cinema.


Hopefully it doesn't act up again...










Thanks for the advice guys


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20528337
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, I can't answer "why" questions. Those need to be addressed to Anthem.
> 
> 
> I can tell you that the rules for handling DTS are complex. Even bizarre. It wouldn't surprise me to learn Denon has it wrong, or that DTS has specified two different ways to do it "correctly" and both Denon and Anthem have it right, even though the results are different. Yes, that's nutty, but if this is what's up, it's not the first nutty thing DTS has done.
> 
> --Bob



There is indeed more than one way do decode and downmix DTS Master Audio 7.1 sources and we feel that our implementation is best since it results in the least degradation. Sorry but I can't get into details due to licensing agreement and with approximately two people requesting a level change since the beginning, it is unlikely to occur. I also apologize for this being a "post and run" - please contact tech support through www.anthemav.com for further assistance.


----------



## MACCA350

Will any of the other level issues be looked at? There were a number of issues my research uncovered, not just with DTS-HDMA 7.1 but off the top of my head with DTS 5.1, DTS-HDMA 5.1, Dolby trueHD 7.1 and Dolby PLIIx processing.


I cannot accept that all those issues raised are the result of correct processing, even Rodger Dressler has stated in this thread that there are obvious issues that should be resolved.


Cheers


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20530931
> 
> 
> There is indeed more than one way do decode and downmix DTS Master Audio 7.1 sources and we feel that our implementation is best since it results in the least degradation. Sorry but I can't get into details due to licensing agreement and with approximately two people requesting a level change since the beginning, it is unlikely to occur. I also apologize for this being a "post and run" - please contact tech support through www.anthemav.com for further assistance.



its not downmixing. it is wrong level from the frontspeakers. both on dts hd 5.1 and 7.1 .

and i have contacted tech support .....more than once. i have made a work around. turning front up by 3 db, and then turning center speakerdown by 3db. then there all play 75db at reference. is it that hard to fix?


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20531379
> 
> 
> its not downmixing. it is wrong level from the frontspeakers. both on dts hd 5.1 and 7.1 .
> 
> and i have contacted tech support .....more than once. i have made a work around. turning front up by 3 db, and then turning center speakerdown by 3db. then there all play 75db at reference. is it that hard to fix?



Yes, I must have glazed over that point, these level issues we have raised are not related to downmixing. The level issues are present on simple playback, ie 5.1 in 5.1 out or 7.1 in 7.1 out. The other issue is with PLIIx processing adding 3dB to 5.1 LPCM.


None of this has anything to do with downmixing.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Macca,

Please repost your results here, and also send them again to Anthem tech support.


Nick,

I don't think the number of people reporting this issue is really relevant. Most folks are just going to assume the D2v is doing the right thing, and for the most part the level differences are small enough to be easily missed by ear. I can recall multiple posts from folks here who thought their surround levels were low, but I seriously doubt most of them took the step of following-up with Anthem.


As far as I know, the results Macca reported are not in dispute.


I.e., he is accurately reporting what's really happening. When he first reported these results last year I confirmed them, as best as I could, using an SPL meter with my 5.1 speaker setup. (The mic rig Macca is using to measure this stuff is more accurate than an SPL meter.)


As I reported back then, not all of these oddnesses are exclusive to the D2v. Some are also found in the decoding done by the Oppo and the PS3 AS WELL! These are the one's I suspect are due to the oddball rules for Dolby, and more particularly for DTS, decoding. But there are also instances where the PS3 and the Oppo appear to decode things differently from the D2v.


And the result Macca found for PLIIx (5.1 input expanded to 7.1 output as I recall) is also unexpected.


I honestly don't know what the right answer is here. I've been flummoxed by DTS' ideas on this stuff more than once for example. But folks are modifying their speaker calibration to try to remove these oddnesses, and doing that is either right or wrong. It would be nice to know which.


Personally, I've taken to using only LPCM from the Oppo, and I only use the LPCM tracks on the AIX disc for validating speaker levels.


It would be great if Anthem could take the lead in sorting out these discrepancies and giving people some advice: E.g., "DON'T alter your speaker levels according to the DTS tracks on AIX because the result will be wrong when you play real movies." Or, "DO use different speaker levels when playing DTS tracks decoded in the D2v if you have a 5.1 speaker setup." Or whatever the case may be.


When I looked at this stuff, the only discrepancy I could explain away was in the decoding of the TrueHD track, which apparently has a -4dB Dialog Normalization. The DTS-HD MA, lossy DTS, and application of PLIIx results all struck me as weird.


I'd have to go back to my email to you last year to dig up the details, but there is enough weirdness in these results that I think it is worth another look by Anthem, and perhaps some interaction with the AIX folks to see if there is something in the coding of that disc that could explain it.


By the way, as I recall the lossy DTS result also showed on the audio test tracks from the Avia Pro SD-DVD set. But I believe that was one of the cases where the Oppo the PS3 and the D2v all decode it the same, so that's likely just DTS strange idea of what's right.


My point is, even if the D2v is doing it all RIGHT, there's some value in explaining the results to us so we don't try to "fix" levels that aren't really broken.

--Bob


ps: Nick, I'll also forward this to you via the tech support email.


----------



## MACCA350

Here's a few links to my original posts on the issues:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post19092901 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post19095159 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19103000 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19108730 


There's probably others but from memory those were the main ones.


Here are just the graphs from those posts in order:

















NOTE: The below chart shows under "AIX-Speaker Balance" an "DTS-HDMA 7.1" track. This is incorrect it is actually an "LPCM 7.1" track.



























Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thanks for doing the archaeology Macca!










I don't have time to poor over this today, but I will get to it. I've also got to go dig up my emails from last fall, which should save some time once I find them.


Nick assures me they are taking a close look at this stuff again. I hope we can quickly separate the things which look odd but are right (such as the Dialog Normalization on the TrueHD track, if I'm right about that) from the things that look odd and ARE odd.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Quote:

Originally Posted by *MACCA350* 
Will any of the other level issues be looked at? There were a number of issues my research uncovered, not just with DTS-HDMA 7.1 but off the top of my head with DTS 5.1, DTS-HDMA 5.1, Dolby trueHD 7.1 and Dolby PLIIx processing.


I cannot accept that all those issues raised are the result of correct processing, even Rodger Dressler has stated in this thread that there are obvious issues that should be resolved.


Cheers
Actually it was clear that although he had a strong suspicion it was still only speculation based on hearsay not something he saw for himself.


What this really comes down to is SPL measurements vs electrical measurements on the Audio Precision analyzer as measured in our lab and that of the licensing bodies, using the test materials they created and methods specified. We passed all tests - there is not a single "fail" or even a "conditional pass".


Your efforts are noted and because of them we just took another look at this (no surprises), but what do you propose we do now?


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20533958
> 
> 
> Your efforts are noted and because of them we just took another look at this (no surprises), but what do you propose we do now?



I sympathize with you on this. The potential causes for this issue of it exists are legion.


The thing that concerns me most are the statements that component XYZ gets different results than the D2V.


Has anyone tried comparative actual measurements of the output of the D2V vs say an Oppo BDP over the set of encodings present on the DVD/BD versions of War of The Worlds?


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20533958
> 
> 
> Actually it was clear that although he had a strong suspicion it was still only speculation based on hearsay not something he saw for himself.



Granted, but Rodger was able to confirm an OPPO issue using his own electrical measurements which I discovered using my SPL measurements. I only point this out to show that the method is reasonably accurate.



> Quote:
> What this really comes down to is SPL measurements vs electrical measurements on the Audio Precision analyzer as measured in our lab and that of the licensing bodies, using the test materials they created and methods specified. We passed all tests - there is not a single "fail" or even a "conditional pass".



Are you referring to the original licensing testing? Have these tests been performed since that original testing. As suggested in my emails maybe there has been a change in recent firmwares that is causing this.

If these tests are recent, is the test unit running recent firmware? Are the tests actually designed to pick up these level issue?


Are you suggesting that these issues are not actually present, ie that there is something else at play or our test equipment or methods are not able to be relied upon?



> Quote:
> Your efforts are noted and because of them we just took another look at this (no surprises), but what do you propose we do now?



Did that look include tests? Have you been able to replicate the issues in the lab or in the field?


Sorry for all the questions but so many pop to mind.


Cheers


----------



## p.las

as i can recall there is no dialog norm on the AIX test disc. thats why there are a difference on true hd.

i have testet oppo bdp 83 dekoding vs the one in my Avm 50v. in regards to trim level on dts hd 7.1(using AIX test disc) all channel reads 75 db, when oppo does the decoding. when Anthem does the dekoding front L/R only reads 72 db = down by 3db.

thats also happens when it is dts hd 5.1 + the overall volume is about 3 db louder when it is anthem decoding vs Oppo....only when it is dts hd 5.1 NOT 7.1.


botum line on my system:

i can only find dts hd issue.


DTS hd 5.1 front L/R down by 3db + overall volume is 3 db louder vs the oppo decoding.


DTS hd 7.1 front L/R down by 3db.....no difference in overall volume.


that is mu findings


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20535723
> 
> 
> Are you referring to the original licensing testing? Have these tests been performed since that original testing.
> 
> ...
> 
> Are you suggesting that these issues are not actually present, ie that there is something else at play or our test equipment or methods are not able to be relied upon?
> 
> ...
> 
> Did that look include tests? Have you been able to replicate the issues in the lab or in the field?



Changes were made for v2.04 but Dolby re-certified for v2.10 with the addition of Dolby Volume, so it's all up to date.


We checked electrical output only, according to standard test method. Of course you realize, we don't make up the rules. There are several variables and test method is only one of them.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> DTS hd 5.1 front L/R down by 3db + overall volume is 3 db louder vs the oppo decoding



This would explain allot as I watched IP Man on BD 5.1 DTS-HD MA on say -18 on the D2v and it was very loud so had to back it off to -20. Same with Hulk (Edward Noton version) which is also DTS-HD MA 5.1.


So with this in mins should I let the Oppo BDP-95 do the decoding?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20536108
> 
> 
> This would explain allot as I watched IP Man on BD 5.1 DTS-HD MA on say -18 on the D2v and it was very loud so had to back it off to -20. Same with Hulk (Edward Noton version) which is also DTS-HD MA 5.1.
> 
> 
> So with this in mins should I let the Oppo BDP-95 do the decoding?



i think the real issue hear, is the 3db lower output from the frontL/R.


try to let the Oppo decode. I'am shure you dont think the dialog is so pronounced as bitstream


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20536058
> 
> 
> Changes were made for v2.04



Any chance I could get my hands on the original firmware and load that into the D2v to check if the issues show up under the original firmware?



> Quote:
> but Dolby re-certified for v2.10 with the addition of Dolby Volume, so it's all up to date.



Do you know if they ran a full retest or just tested the new Dolby Volume implementation?


So DTS or THX have not retested since the original certification?



> Quote:
> We checked electrical output only, according to standard test method. Of course you realize, we don't make up the rules. There are several variables and test method is only one of them.



Looking through those standard test procedures, will they actually reveal these resulting level issues?


Is it possible a problem occurred during a number of our firmware updates that is causing these issues and they are not present in a unit which is operating correctly? Do those of us who have found these issues all have faulty units?


Before or since performing the standard tests, were you able to replicate these issues in the lab using the test media and/or methods we have used?


I realize your time is precious and devoting time to these issues is not something you or your team would do lightly but given this is the 'statement' processor in Anthems lineup I was hoping Anthem would like to get to the bottom of these kinds of issues.


If these cannot be resolved I'll have to let the OPPO decode and pass audio off to the D2v as LPCM. The only problem for me then will be the PLIIx issue, but that's relatively easy to counter. The option of selling the D2v and looking elsewhere is not something I'd like to entertain.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> try to let the Oppo decode. *I'am shure you dont think the dialog is so pronounced as bitstream*



Sorry I don't understand the last line. Do you mean that the Dialog wont be as pronounced with the Oppo decoding as all the speakers will be outputting the same volume? So no drop in volume for the LF/RF.


So Macca if I'm running just 5.1 would it be better for me to let the Oppo 95 decode then?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20536128
> 
> 
> Any chance I could get my hands on the original firmware and load that into the D2v to check if the issues show up under the original firmware?
> 
> 
> 
> Do you know if they ran a full retest or just tested the new Dolby Volume implementation?
> 
> 
> So DTS or THX have not retested since the original certification?
> 
> 
> 
> Looking through those standard test procedures, will they actually reveal these resulting level issues?
> 
> 
> Is it possible a problem occurred during a number of our firmware updates that is causing these issues and they are not present in a unit which is operating correctly? Do those of us who have found these issues all have faulty units?
> 
> 
> Before or since performing the standard tests, were you able to replicate these issues in the lab using the test media and/or methods we have used?
> 
> 
> I realize your time is precious and devoting time to these issues is not something you or your team would do lightly but given this is the 'statement' processor in Anthems lineup I was hoping Anthem would like to get to the bottom of these kinds of issues.
> 
> 
> If these cannot be resolved I'll have to let the OPPO decode and pass audio off to the D2v as LPCM. The only problem for me then will be the PLIIx issue, but that's relatively easy to counter. The option of selling the D2v and looking elsewhere is not something I'd like to entertain.
> 
> 
> Cheers



when i was purchasing a new processor, i have som things that i want - one thing offcurse was good sound - THX aproved - and internal decoding .

i can't believe that this issue can not be solved. i dont thing this is a commen problem. Many other brands dosent have thise kind of problem.


And again.......i'am very happy for my Anthem. i just want it do do thing correct.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20536244
> 
> 
> Sorry I don't understand the last line. Do you mean that the Dialog wont be as pronounced with the Oppo decoding as all the speakers will be outputting the same volume? So no drop in volume for the LF/RF.
> 
> 
> So Macca if I'm running just 5.1 would it be better for me to let the Oppo 95 decode then?



i am sorry. my english issent that good










when the Oppo decodes, you can hear that the soundstage in movies is wider, becurse the front speaker L/R are playing 3db louder vs when Anthem dekodes. When Anthem decodes the front are down bye 3db. In my system its sound like the dialog is much more pronounced/loud


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20536108
> 
> 
> This would explain allot as I watched IP Man on BD 5.1 DTS-HD MA on say -18 on the D2v and it was very loud so had to back it off to -20. Same with Hulk (Edward Noton version) which is also DTS-HD MA 5.1.
> 
> 
> So with this in mins should I let the Oppo BDP-95 do the decoding?



Some DTS-MA movies are just louder than others so I don't think that is the issue. I've changed back and forth for some movies that exhibit this trait and volume stays the same, just loud from the sound guys when they made it it seems.

John


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20536424
> 
> 
> Some DTS-MA movies are just louder than others so I don't think that is the issue. I've changed back and forth for some movies that exhibit this trait and volume stays the same, just loud from the sound guys when they made it it seems.
> 
> John



yes. For some reasens many new release bd movie - especialy dts hd(all new films are whit dts hd) is mixet very loud. i have Seven on dvd and bluray. and the the bd is about 8db louder. what become of reference...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20536451
> 
> 
> yes. For some reasens many new release bd movie - especialy dts hd(all new films are whit dts hd) is mixet very loud. i have Seven on dvd and bluray. and the the bd is about 8db louder. what become of reference...



Looks like the Sound Wars on BD









John


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20536244
> 
> 
> So Macca if I'm running just 5.1 would it be better for me to let the Oppo 95 decode then?



That's one workaround, the other is to make the adjustment that's been mentioned(fronts down 3dB and center up 3dB) along with lowering the volume 3dB.


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/20536451
> 
> 
> yes. For some reasens many new release bd movie - especialy dts hd(all new films are whit dts hd) is mixet very loud. i have Seven on dvd and bluray. and the the bd is about 8db louder. what become of reference...



Yes, this was mentioned in the THX training as something that THX were trying to stop. I meant to have a chat with the instructor regarding the specifics of the problem but didn't get around to it at the time so I'm not sure what the actual problem was.


If it is in the mixing and not some form of decoder instruction to increase levels in the volume controller than it will have similar implications as we've seen in the music industry, ie dynamic compression to enable increased overall loudness.


All digital media has a brick wall limit to it's dynamic range but since we calibrate our systems to a 'reference' level we essentially have set the max recordable level(0dBFS) to this reference(105dB for main channels and 115dB for the LFE channel). So there are only two ways to increase the overall loudness of an audio mix in a calibrated system:

1) have the processor increase levels beyond calibration limits and/or

2) compress the mix and increase the loudness prior to encoding


Both of those are not acceptable in my opinion, but the lesser evil would be number 1.


I've shown numerous examples of DTS-MA tracks playing back at up to ~10dB louder than other formats of the same track. I've considered extracting the audio tracks and analyzing them to see exactly how much of this difference is in the track itself but I just haven't got around to it yet, maybe that will be my next project.


But much of that is besides the point here at the moment.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*The Potential Problem with Speaker Levels*


I refreshed my recollection of the previous discussion on this (which began in mid-August last year), and of my emails back then to Anthem.


I decided to take another crack at seeing what I could confirm.


Now note that I'm not really concerned about the relative level between tracks of different formats. There's too much chance that they've been authored differently. For example, I'm pretty sure the 7.1 TrueHD track on AIX has -4dB attenuation built in (Dialog Normalization). Nick has said in the past that Dialog Normalization *IS* being handled for the TrueHD decode in the D2v, but it does NOT show in the Status displays the way it does for lossy DD tracks.


Rather, what matters to me is the relative speaker balance WITHIN each track, and in particular whether that is DIFFERENT depending on where the decoding is done.


--------------------------------------


I'm testing with the Radio Shack digital SPL meter. My ARC solution is turned ON. Note that due to the effect of Room Gain in my ARC solution it is *NORMAL* for my subwoofer SPL to register about 3dB hotter than the main speakers. So I won't be reporting that below. I'll only be reporting the deviation from "normal".


To eliminate the potentially confusing effects of down-mixing or surround sound extension (i.e., PLIIx) I'll have the D2v set for my 5.1 speakers when playing 5.1 tracks and I'll lie to the D2v and say that I have a 7.1 speaker setup when playing 7.1 tracks. Of course since I don't actually have rear speakers, I won't hear any rear channel audio. (And the lack of ARC data for these unreal Rear speakers also won't make any difference.)


I'll be comparing decoding in the D2v against decoding in the Oppo BDP-93 and the PS3. In addition to the AIX calibration Blu-ray, I also have the Audio Tests disc from the Avia Pro SD-DVD multi-disc set (no longer in print) that has DD and DTS tracks. And I have DVE HD Basics, Blu-ray, which has a TrueHD 5.1 track.


The Oppo BDP-93, when connected to the D2v, will always decode 7.1 tracks to 7.1 channels of LPCM for HDMI output. The PS3 can be set to force a 5.1 decode for HDMI output, but I'm not going to use that because it's not clear exactly what it does and I have my suspicions. So the PS3 will also be decoding 7.1 tracks to 7.1 LPCM for output. By setting the D2v to 7.1 speakers when playing 7.1 tracks, I'm also ensuring the D2v does a 7.1 decode and no down-mix.


The nature of the decode is important to keep straight. DTS in particular has DIFFERENT rules for decoding a 7.1 DTS-HD MA track to 7.1 speakers or to 5.1 speakers. Since the PS3 and the Oppo can't know how many speakers I have on the D2v, they do 7.1 decoding for their HDMI output, and so I have to do that in the D2v as well for comparison.


--------------------------------------------


My test procedure when playing any given track will be to adjust main volume on the D2v as necessary to get 75dB SPL from the Left Front speaker (measured at ARC mic positon #1). Discrepancies up to +/- 3dB for other speakers will be read directly off the SPL meter. Discrepancies greater than that will be measured by CHANGING main volume on the D2v to produce a 75dB result for the mains (the amount of change being the discrepancy of course) or 78dB for the sub. This is to avoid the problem where the SPL meter gets less accurate as you go near either end of the scale at each range level, and the problem of adjacent range levels not being precisely matched if you switch range levels. I've used this method before and it seems to be quite reliable as the digital volume control in the D2v appears to be quite accurate.


--------------------------------------------


First the LPCM tracks.


The AIX 5.1 LPCM track produces the same result played either from the Oppo or the PS3. All channels are "normal".


The AIX 7.1 LPCM track produces the same result played either from the Oppo or the PS3. All channels are "normal" (again, I don't have Rear speakers so I'm not hearing those channels -- except for the low bass portion which ARC is sending to my sub).


--------------------------------------------


Next the DD 5.1 tracks


The AIX track and the Avia Pro SD-DVD track produce the same results, and the results are also the same whether decoding is done in the D2v, the Oppo, or the PS3. All channels are "normal"


--------------------------------------------


Next the DTS 5.1 tracks


The AIX track and the Avia Pro SD-DVD track produce **DIFFERENT** results (my recollection from last August notwithstanding). For BOTH discs, the results are the same whether decoding is done in the D2v, the Oppo, or the PS3.

*For the AIX DTS 5.1 track: The LS/RS output is -3dB down.*

*The Avia Pro SD-DVD DTS 5.1 track does *NOT* show this discrepancy.*


Since I've got the same result from all three decoders on each of these discs respectively, I can only conclude that the -3dB surround level is built into the authoring of that AIX test track.


[An alternate scenario is that AIX recorded equal levels, but the DTS spec has a built in -3dB attenuation for the surround channels. In that scenario, we'd have to assume that the Avia Pro people countered this presumed DTS spec by BOOSTING their recorded surround levels by +3dB so as to produce equal output results for testing purposes despite the presumed DTS spec.]

*In any event, you should *NOT* be altering your Side Surround speaker levels in the D2v to "fix" this oddness in the AIX result.*


That is, in my opinion, there is no bug in the D2v here.


Macca also reported that for the AIX DTS 5.1 tracks, the subwoofer was -2dB down. I'm seeing perhaps -1dB down, but that's within the limit of what I can test with the SPL meter, so it is not clear it is a "real" result.


I'm not seeing any reduction in sub output at all in the Avia Pro SD-DVD DTS 5.1 test track. And again, all three decoders are producing the same result for both discs respectively.


So even if my possible -1dB and Macca's -2dB on AIX sub level are "real", evidently they are authored into the AIX track. Once again, there is, in my opinion, no bug in the D2v here, and you should **NOT** be adjusting your subwoofer level to "fix" the odd result from the AIX DTS 5.1 track.


--------------------------------------


Next the TrueHD 7.1 track from AIX, Blu-ray


The results are identical whether the decoding is done in the D2v, the Oppo, or the PS3. All channels are "normal" (again, keeping in mind that I have no Rear speakers and thus can't hear those channels except in the subwoofer). I'm also ignoring the uniform -4dB attenuation across all channels in this track which I'm convinced is simply the effect of the Dialog Normalization attribute for this track. (You would simply adjust main volume to get a pleasing playback level.)


That is, in my opinion, there is no bug in the D2v here, although it would be nice if the Setup button status displays showed that Dialog Normalization really was being processed for this TrueHD track.


----------------------------------------


Next the TrueHD 5.1 track from DVE HD Basics, Blu-ray


Use Title 1, Chapters 7 to 19. This is a TrueHD 5.1 48KHz track. Note that some of these Chapters play pairs of adjacent speakers.


[Go to Complete Program Menu > Audio Test Signals and find the "Multi-channel Levels & Balance" test. This will be Chapter 19. Just Chapter back to get to Chapter 7 and play from there.]


Note that these will play about -10dB down from the AIX tracks, so raise main volume to compensate.


All three decoders produce the same results. All channels "normal".


----------------------------------------


Next the DTS-HD MA 7.1 track from AIX, Blu-ray


With decoding in the PS3, the over-all level is attenuated -3dB compared to the other AIX tracks. But after adjusting main volume to compensate for this, all channels are "normal" (again keeping in mind that I can't hear the Rear channels except in the subwoofer).


With decoding in the Oppo, there is no such attenuation. The same main volume level that works for the AIX LPCM tracks also works for the DTS-HD MA 7.1 track, and when set that way all channels are "normal".


It is not obvious which of the PS3 or the Oppo have this wrong, but my bet would be the Oppo has it right since, after all, that matches the other AIX tracks.


With decoding in the D2v, there is clearly a problem. The Left Front and Right Front speakers are attenuated -3dB. If you boost main volume to compensate for that (as with decoding in the PS3) then the Center, Left Side, Right Side, and Subwoofer are all now +3dB too hot. On the assumption that decoding in the Oppo is getting this right (as opposed to decoding in the PS3) then:

*For the AIX DTS-HD MA 7.1 track: Decoding in the D2v produces LF/RF -3dB down.*


Regardless of whether the Oppo or the PS3 has it right when they do the decoding, clearly the decoding in the D2v is wrong. Note that I can't be sure what the level is for the Rears given the way I'm testing this. And again, note that there is neither down-mixing nor surround sound expansion happening. *This is plain and simple, a decoding bug in D2v firmware V2.11.*


A workaround would be to raise LF/RF (but not C or any other speakers) by +3dB using the "temporary" level control buttons on the D2v remote when playing DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks using HDMI Bitstream audio (i.e., when decoding in the D2v). Don't forget to clear that afterwards. To do this you would need to RAISE "Fronts" and then LOWER "Center" to compensate since "Fronts" also alters Center speaker output. See Section 4.5 in the Manual.


A simpler workaround would be to use HDMI LPCM audio so that decoding is done in the player.


---------------------------------------


NOTE: I don't have a calibration disc with a DTS-HD MA 5.1 test track.


My conclusions are as follows:


1) My results are consistent with what Macca reported in his charts. This adds credence to the other results in his charts that I did NOT test above.


2) When both down-mixing and surround sound expansion processing are eliminated, I find there *IS* a problem with the decoding of DTS-HD MA 7.1 in the D2v. *THIS APPEARS TO BE A BUG IN THE V2.11 FIRMWARE.*


3) The discrepancy reported in the AIX DTS 5.1 track results appears to be authored into that track. There does *NOT* appear to be a D2v bug here, and there's no corrective action (speaker level adjustments) needed.


4) There are no problems with LPCM, TrueHD or DD.


Again, what I tested in this post was with BOTH down-mixing and surround sound expansion (i.e., PLIIx) ELIMINATED. Testing those would be the next logical step.

--Bob


ps: I'll make sure Nick at Anthem gets this info.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20537551
> 
> *The Potential Problem with Speaker Levels*
> 
> *For the AIX DTS-HD MA 7.1 track: Decoding in the D2v produces LF/RF -3dB down.*
> 
> 
> Regardless of whether the Oppo or the PS3 has it right when they do the decoding, clearly the decoding in the D2v is wrong. Note that I can't be sure what the level is for the Rears given the way I'm testing this. And again, note that there is neither down-mixing nor surround sound expansion happening. *This is plain and simple, a decoding bug in D2v firmware V2.11.*



Very interesting. I think it would be worth looking at more 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks. It well could be that there is a problem in the AIX track that is causing inconsistent results since all three systems decode it differently. It could well be that there is something on this track that is not adherent to standards and thus the three decoders are making their own assumptions about what is meant by the data.


----------



## AVfile

Thanks, Bob, I concur -- similar results with AVM-50v (2.10) here.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20537551
> 
> 
> NOTE: I don't have a calibration disc with a DTS-HD MA 5.1 test track.



Do you have a Disney Blu-ray?


My results:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post20246836 


The good thing is you can adjust the trims to compensate for the bug in DTS-HDMA mode (until Anthem makes a fix) without affecting the trims for other formats which don't have the bug.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20537672
> 
> 
> Very interesting. I think it would be worth looking at more 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks. It well could be that there is a problem in the AIX track that is causing inconsistent results since all three systems decode it differently. It could well be that there is something on this track that is not adherent to standards and thus the three decoders are making their own assumptions about what is meant by the data.



Yes, I think you are on to something here -- that there is some sort of meta data that is either out of spec or not being handled properly by the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20537708
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob, I concur -- similar results with AVM-50v (2.10) here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a Disney Blu-ray?
> 
> . . . .



Good suggestion, but the only Disney disc I have that uses DTS-HD MA 5.1 for the feature is "Wall-E", Blu-ray, and the Audio section of Setup on that disc only outputs Dolby Digital.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

You'll have to take my word for it then; I get the problem (although only 2dB not 3dB) with the Disney test tones so it's not just an AIX issue.


Also, subjectively, I would say my face gets blasted by every DTS-HDMA movie I watch! I noticed this "loud center channel" right away when I got the Anthem, until I adjusted the trims as I explained above.


----------



## MACCA350

Great stuff there Bob, I'll just note again that I'm running fw v2.10 so it's affected from at least then. May also affect earlier versions, actually I seem to recall I tested on the previous fw and then upgraded to v2.10 and tested again and they were the same in this regard.


Regarding that 4dB drop in the TrueHD 7.1 track, it may well have a -27dBFS DialNorm value which will result in a -4dB offset in DD decoders to replay DialNorm at -31dBFS. But the D2v, being a THX product, is supposed to adjust for that to result in a -27dBFS DialNorm playback level. In other words it should, if authored in that way, play that track 4dB louder than a non-THX certified product(note that the OPPO seems to handle DialNorm as per the THX spec). We can see this in action with the other DD tracks as they display a +4dB offset on the front panel of the D2v.


Did you note whether the PS3 played back the TrueHD track with the same -4dB attenuation?


You mentioned that "Nick has said in the past that Dialog Normalization *IS* being handled for the TrueHD decode in the D2v, but it does NOT show in the Status displays the way it does for lossy DD tracks." Did Nick clarify whether the D2v is handling TrueHD's DialNorm correctly as per the Dolby spec or as per the THX spec.


We can't rule out the fact the AIX TrueHD 7.1 test may be authored incorrectly either in their mastering level or DialNorm implementation.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes the volume level with the PS3 decoding that TrueHD track was also reduced. I don't know which spec the D2v is following for Dialog Normalization.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20538671
> 
> 
> Yes the volume level with the PS3 decoding that TrueHD track was also reduced. I don't know which spec the D2v is following for Dialog Normalization.
> 
> --Bob



in my system ,dts hd 5.1 plays 3 db louder , when it bistream, vs pcm. but from i can tell it is not nessersery a decoding problem. it coud easely be som strange behavyer regards DTS, ore.....?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> i am sorry. my english issent that good
> 
> 
> when the Oppo decodes, you can hear that the soundstage in movies is wider, becurse the front speaker L/R are playing 3db louder vs when Anthem dekodes. When Anthem decodes the front are down bye 3db. In my system its sound like the dialog is much more pronounced/loud



No worries and thanks for the reply. So as I would find having to adjust speaker trims every time I watch a BD with DTS-HD MA I think I will just let the Oppo-95 handle the decoding until Anthem addresses this issue.


Thanks to Macca, Bob and P.Las for all the testing and posting the results.


*Update*


Sorry AVfile I just clicked on your link and read your workaround. You said:

*Note: to raise only the L/R channels in the Anthem you have to increase the FRONT trim and then decrease the CENTRE trim by the same amount.


Fortunately these trims are only stored for the current format so it won't screw up PCM, Dolby or regular DTS modes. You should only have to do this once.*


Is this done in the main setup or only when your actually watching a movie in DTS-HD MA and do the changes on the remote? Sorry just want to get this right before watching anything.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20540917
> 
> 
> Is this done in the main setup or only when your actually watching a movie in DTS-HD MA and do the changes on the remote? Sorry just want to get this right before watching anything.



While playing the track use the remote RED(Front) and GREEN(Center) buttons to make the changes.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> While playing the track use the remote RED(Front) and GREEN(Center) buttons to make the changes.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Playing with these "temporary" speaker level trims can easily get confusing. Note that a change made with these does *NOT* alter the values in Setup > Level Calibration.


If you get confused about what you've done with the "temporary" settings, note that you can Reset all of them all at once as follows:


1) Go into Setup and Save User Settings


2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue using the Front Panel Display.


3) Load Saved User Settings


Since the "temporary" settings are not Saved, this resets them all. Tone Control Bypass is also a "temporary" setting, as are some of the other things you change on the fly using the remote. So you will also need to set that again afterwards if you use it (as I do).


Also, if you have set your Main Path Volume Limit too low, you may find that positive trim values aren't available.


------------------------------


ETA: This also means "temporary" settings do not survive a Firmware Install since you must Reset Factory Defaults prior to any Firmware Install, and the "temporary" settings are not stashed in Saved User/Installer Settings for reloading afterwards.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> While playing the track use the remote RED(Front) and GREEN(Center) buttons to make the changes.



Ok np. So as AVfile mentioned if I do this while playing a DTS-HD MA track the Anthem will remember for next time after it's turned off? So it's a one off thing?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20541112
> 
> 
> Ok np. So as AVfile mentioned if I do this while playing a DTS-HD MA track the Anthem will remember for next time after it's turned off? So it's a one off thing?



yes. it will remeber it every time there comes a dts hd 5.1 - 6.1 - and 7.1 .


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> yes. it will remeber it every time there comes a dts hd 5.1 - 6.1 - and 7.1



Great that's good to know. Will do this then until a fix happens.


----------



## benleeys

Bob,


I was perusing your discourse on analog LFE output on the Oppo 93 thread - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post20241732 . Very informative indeed as usual coming from you.


At the end of it, I was wondering how the D2v handles this signal coming in at its analog input. I can't seem to find any mention of it in the manual. Is there a boost setting somewhere?


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *benleeys*
Bob,


I was perusing your discourse on analog LFE output on the Oppo 93 thread - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post20241732 . Very informative indeed as usual coming from you.


At the end of it, I was wondering how the D2v handles this signal coming in at its analog input. I can't seem to find any mention of it in the manual. Is there a boost setting somewhere?


Ben
There is not.


The D2v applies 10dB boost automatically I believe. If you are doing Bass Management in the D2v for that multi-channel analog input, such as with ARC, (ANALOG-DSP Mode), then you will want all speakers set to Large in the 95 and so you can safely use a +5dB Sub output volume trim in the 95 to get the remaining part of the necessary boost. (Only alters multi-channel Analog output from the OPPO.)


Use the LPCM Tracks from the AIX disc to confirm.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20544273
> 
> 
> Great that's good to know. Will do this then until a fix happens.



Everyone should adjust their trims for DTS-HDMA and e-mail Anthem about the positive results. Then Anthem can make the fix at the firmware level. When new firmware is loaded the trims will be reset as Bob mentioned


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20546214
> 
> 
> There is not.
> 
> 
> The D2v applies 10dB boost automatically I believe. If you are doing Bass Management in the D2v for that multi-channel analog input, such as with ARC, (ANALOG-DSP Mode), then you will want all speakers set to Large in the 95 and so you can safely use a +5dB Sub output volume trim in the 95 to get the remaining part of the necessary boost. (Only alters multi-channel Analog output from the OPPO.)
> 
> 
> Use the LPCM Tracks from the AIX disc to confirm.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. So, if I understand correctly , with 'Large" speakers, I have to remember to account for the 5dB in the Oppo when using the D2v, whether Analog-DSP or Analog Mode is set in the latter.


I wish Oppo and Anthem mentioned their respective treatment of the Sub signals in their manuals instead of having the user find out for himself. My former Denon A1X player did.


Also, Oppo could have applied the additional 5dB attenuation ONLY when speakers are set to "Small". Not every user is tech savvy or have the benefit of your tutorials.


Thanks again.

Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/20546991
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob. So, if I understand correctly , with 'Large" speakers, I have to remember to account for the 5dB in the Oppo when using the D2v, whether Analog-DSP or Analog Mode is set in the latter.
> 
> 
> I wish Oppo and Anthem mentioned their respective treatment of the Sub signals in their manuals instead of having the user find out for himself. My former Denon A1X player did.
> 
> 
> Also, Oppo could have applied the additional 5dB attenuation ONLY when speakers are set to "Small". Not every user is tech savvy or have the benefit of your tutorials.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> Ben



I'm not really sure what the D2v will do if you use ANALOG-DIRECT mode. You'll have to check it. I *THINK* it will still apply the default +10dB boost to the incoming LFE signal. I'm not even sure whether the D2v's *OUTPUT* speaker volume trims are applied or not when using ANALOG-DIRECT. I don't use it (since you can't use ARC with ANALOG-DIRECT Sources), so it's just not something I've tested. All of this is trivial to check of course.


If you are using ANALOG-DIRECT then you will need to do Bass Management in the Oppo -- the D2v won't do it.


That means you will likely have some speakers set to Small in the Oppo and thus you should NOT apply the +5dB Sub output volume trim there for the reasons I mentioned in the post you cited.


Instead, you do any adjustment using the volume control on the subwoofer itself.


---------------------------------------


On an entirely separate note, the analog outputs of the Oppo are a little hotter than the D2v is expecting. In the Analog Input Levels part of Setup, you can correct for this by applying a -1.5dB input trim. The only reason to do this is to better match analog input volume levels against HDMI input volume levels.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20546959
> 
> 
> Everyone should adjust their trims for DTS-HDMA and e-mail Anthem about the positive results. Then Anthem can make the fix at the firmware level. When new firmware is loaded the trims will be reset as Bob mentioned



For folks using the Oppo 93 or 95, I still recommend using HDMI LPCM audio anyway. Which means this particular problem in the D2v is a non-issue for them.


The reason is that, in the 93 and the 95, if you use HDMI LPCM audio you can leave Secondary Audio ON all the time without loss of audio quality.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For folks using the Oppo 93 or 95, I still recommend using HDMI LPCM audio anyway. Which means this particular problem in the D2v is a non-issue for them.
> 
> 
> The reason is that, in the 93 and the 95, if you use HDMI LPCM audio you can leave Secondary Audio ON all the time without loss of audio quality.
> 
> --Bob



So for the 83, if you don't care about Secondary Audio, LPCM for everything, if you don't care about either. That's it Bob?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20547468
> 
> 
> So for the 83, if you don't care about Secondary Audio, LPCM for everything, if you don't care about either. That's it Bob?
> 
> John



Yes on the 83 you will need to leave Secondary Audio OFF (even when using LPCM) unless you actually want to use it at some point.


For all these Oppo players there are two cases where you might want to switch to Bitstream (with Secondary Audio OFF).


First, the Oppo players won't decode rear channel info matrixed into lossy DTS ES tracks. The D2v will. Using LPCM you'll get 5.1 and PLIIx in the D2v will do much the same thing, so no biggie.


Second, for the rare format DTS-HD MA 192KHz 5.1, and for JUST that format, the Oppo players will decode that as 96KHz. The D2v will decode the full 192KHz.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20547070
> 
> 
> I'm not really sure what the D2v will do if you use ANALOG-DIRECT mode. You'll have to check it. I *THINK* it will still apply the default +10dB boost to the incoming LFE signal. I'm not even sure whether the D2v's *OUTPUT* speaker volume trims are applied or not when using ANALOG-DIRECT. I don't use it (since you can't use ARC with ANALOG-DIRECT Sources), so it's just not something I've tested. All of this is trivial to check of course.
> 
> 
> If you are using ANALOG-DIRECT then you will need to do Bass Management in the Oppo -- the D2v won't do it.
> 
> 
> That means you will likely have some speakers set to Small in the Oppo and thus you should NOT apply the +5dB Sub output volume trim there for the reasons I mentioned in the post you cited.
> 
> 
> Instead, you do any adjustment using the volume control on the subwoofer itself.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> On an entirely separate note, the analog outputs of the Oppo are a little hotter than the D2v is expecting. In the Analog Input Levels part of Setup, you can correct for this by applying a -1.5dB input trim. The only reason to do this is to better match analog input volume levels against HDMI input volume levels.
> 
> --Bob



All noted, Bob. When my Oppo 95 arrives (on the way), I intend to fool around a bit with it's analog output to see how it compares; hence my interest in the Sub's input/output.


Thanks.

Ben


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes on the 83 you will need to leave Secondary Audio OFF (even when using LPCM) unless you actually want to use it at some point.
> 
> 
> For all these Oppo players there are two cases where you might want to switch to Bitstream (with Secondary Audio OFF).
> 
> 
> First, the Oppo players won't decode rear channel info matrixed into lossy DTS ES tracks. The D2v will. Using LPCM you'll get 5.1 and PLIIx in the D2v will do much the same thing, so no biggie.
> 
> 
> Second, for the rare format DTS-HD MA 192KHz 5.1, and for JUST that format, the Oppo players will decode that as 96KHz. The D2v will decode the full 192KHz.
> 
> --Bob



I have a couple of the Sonnheim recordings at 192/24 so I forgot about that.

Thanks Bob.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20547070
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> On an entirely separate note, the analog outputs of the Oppo are a little hotter than the D2v is expecting. In the Analog Input Levels part of Setup, you can correct for this by applying a -1.5dB input trim. The only reason to do this is to better match analog input volume levels against HDMI input volume levels.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, a few things have changed since the Oppo 83 came out. The rated output voltage for the 83/83SE was rated at 2.3 Vrms while the D2v/50v was expecting 2 Vrms, hence the necessary -1.5dB trim in the Anthems or 20*log(2.3/2.0)) = approx 1.5dB


Now, the BDP-95 is rated at 2.1 Vrms, hence the trim needed in the D2v/50v is -0.5dB or 20*log(2.1/2.0)).



Just FYI...


----------



## rovingtravler

Wow. I have not seen an equation with a log in it since college










That is a good thing


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20548416
> 
> 
> Now, the BDP-95 is rated at 2.1 Vrms, hence the trim needed in the *D2v/50v* is -0.5dB or 20*log(2.1/2.0)).





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20549942
> 
> 
> Wow. I have not seen an equation with a log in it since college



I'm still trying to figure out how you divide D2v by 50v


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still trying to figure out how you divide D2v by 50v



Now that's cool math









John


----------



## rovingtravler

that is a trick


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still trying to figure out how you divide D2v by 50v



use this: D2v > 50v









John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20550620
> 
> 
> I'm still trying to figure out how you divide D2v by 50v



I guess you haven't heard. It's the new Math.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20549942
> 
> 
> Wow. I have not seen an equation with a log in it since college
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a good thing



This is the AV *Science* Forum, after all.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20548416
> 
> 
> Bob, a few things have changed since the Oppo 83 came out. The rated output voltage for the 83/83SE was rated at 2.3 Vrms while the D2v/50v was expecting 2 Vrms, hence the necessary -1.5dB trim in the Anthems or 20*log(2.3/2.0)) = approx 1.5dB
> 
> 
> Now, the BDP-95 is rated at 2.1 Vrms, hence the trim needed in the D2v/50v is -0.5dB or 20*log(2.1/2.0)).
> 
> 
> 
> Just FYI...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20549942
> 
> 
> Wow. I have not seen an equation with a log in it since college
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a good thing





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20550620
> 
> 
> I'm still trying to figure out how you divide D2v by 50v





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20550698
> 
> 
> Now that's cool math
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20550858
> 
> 
> use this: D2v > 50v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/20551117
> 
> 
> I guess you haven't heard. It's the new Math.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20553397
> 
> 
> This is the AV *Science* Forum, after all.






You'll guys are simply too funny







... probably members of the math comedy club







!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> This is the AV Science Forum, after all.



Not in the cable thread









John


----------



## WiWavelength




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20548416
> 
> 
> 
> Now, the BDP-95 is rated at 2.1 Vrms, hence the trim needed in the D2v/50v...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20550620
> 
> 
> I'm still trying to figure out how you divide D2v by 50v



D2v/50v = D/25











AJ


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WiWavelength* /forum/post/20553679
> 
> 
> D2v/50v = D/25
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AJ



I agree the v cancels, but...


According to

http://www.cambiaresearch.com/c4/800...kup-Table.aspx 


D2 = 210 and 50 = 80 so 210/80 = 2.62500


----------



## AVfile

Unsubscribe


----------



## tngiloy

A 'Heads Up' for anyone here who uses the Oppo 93/95 players; there is a new Beta fiemware available.

It includes VUDU and Canadian Netflix, plus other goodies and repairs.


Check the Oppo website for info and download instructions and links.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Plays ISO files from attached drives!

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Wish they would add that to our 83's!!!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20554842
> 
> 
> A 'Heads Up' for anyone here who uses the Oppo 93/95 players; there is a new Beta fiemware available.
> 
> It includes VUDU and Canadian Netflix, plus other goodies and repairs.
> 
> 
> Check the Oppo website for info and download instructions and links.
> 
> 
> Tom


----------



## Mp0wer

Well I'm having problems with my 50v.


1. It's making my Motorola DCX3400 Comcast cable box go crazy, it's resetting all my settings, audio dropouts, making the unit freeze.


2. When watching a movie with Media Player Classic Home Cinema, if I fast forward or exit out I get popping, I also will lose audio and have to turn off the 50v and back on.



I'm using 2.11 Firmware


----------



## aps1233

Hi,


I'm looking for RS-232 control codes for the Anthem DV2. Can anybody point me in the right direction?


Thanks.


APS


----------



## obie_fl

Think it is time to upgrade my 83 to a 93. I could get rid of my WDLive.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aps1233* /forum/post/20555128
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I'm looking for RS-232 control codes for the Anthem DV2. Can anybody point me in the right direction?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> APS



Download ARC. There is an Excel file in there in the manuals folder.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer* /forum/post/20554992
> 
> 
> Well I'm having problems with my 50v.
> 
> 
> 1. It's making my Motorola DCX3400 Comcast cable box go crazy, it's resetting all my settings, audio dropouts, making the unit freeze.
> 
> 
> 2. When watching a movie with Media Player Classic Home Cinema, if I fast forward or exit out I get popping, I also will lose audio and have to turn off the 50v and back on.



If you temporarily disconnect all HDMI outputs from the Mot box and use analog video and S/PDIF (or analog) audio, does the box then work nicely?


----------



## aps1233

Thanks!!


----------



## Mp0wer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/20556753
> 
> 
> If you temporarily disconnect all HDMI outputs from the Mot box and use analog video and S/PDIF (or analog) audio, does the box then work nicely?



Hi Roger


I unplugged the cable box for 10 mins and everything seems to be ok, If I have this problem again I'll try your suggestion...Thanks


Question : Will I lose video quality using component cables vs HDMI or is it really the same seeing that it up converts to HDMI?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Roger
> 
> 
> I unplugged the cable box for 10 mins and everything seems to be ok, If I have this problem again I'll try your suggestion...Thanks
> 
> 
> Question : Will I lose video quality using component cables vs HDMI or is it really the same seeing that it up converts to HDMI?



You won't notice any difference.

John


----------



## JimP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer* /forum/post/20557054
> 
> 
> Hi Roger
> 
> 
> I unplugged the cable box for 10 mins and everything seems to be ok, If I have this problem again I'll try your suggestion...Thanks
> 
> 
> Question : Will I lose video quality using component cables vs HDMI or is it really the same seeing that it up converts to HDMI?



It doesn't all convert to HDMI.


Depending on your display, the picture quality from HDMI(digital) can either look the same as component(analog) or it can look better. It really just depends on the display.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/20559957
> 
> 
> It doesn't all convert to HDMI.
> 
> 
> Depending on your display, the picture quality from HDMI(digital) can either look the same as component(analog) or it can look better. It really just depends on the display.



Not necessarily disagreeing here but you kind of lost me. What doesn't all convert to HDMI? (colorspace?) Technically what we are talking about here is transcoding not up converting, although up conversion can certainly be done in the process.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/20559957
> 
> 
> It doesn't all convert to HDMI.
> 
> 
> Depending on your display, the picture quality from HDMI(digital) can either look the same as component(analog) or it can look better. It really just depends on the display.



I have never seen video quality look better by HDMI than component on plasmas, LCDs, multiple pjs etc. If syncing is an issue then the choice is easy from my experience but theoretically there might be a display that would show a diff. I just haven't seen one.

John


----------



## Kensmith48

I have a D2 w/ARC and I just purchased a MRX500 which also has ARC. I already have ARC installed on my laptop for the D2. I've tried to install ARC for the MRX 500 but since I already have it installed for the D2 it won't let the ARC install for the 500. I read the manual and it says: To set up multiple systems using one computer copy the 2 serialized files from each arc cd to the following directory once arc is installed:

C:\\ProgramFiles\\Anthem\\AnthemRoomCorrection


Could someone give easy detailed instructions on how to do this?


Thanks,

Ken


----------



## scheong

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* 
I have a D2 w/ARC and I just purchased a MRX500 which also has ARC. I already have ARC installed on my laptop for the D2. I've tried to install ARC for the MRX 500 but since I already have it installed for the D2 it won't let the ARC install for the 500. I read the manual and it says: To set up multiple systems using one computer copy the 2 serialized files from each arc cd to the following directory once arc is installed:

C:\\ProgramFiles\\Anthem\\AnthemRoomCorrection


Could someone give easy detailed instructions on how to do this?


Thanks,

Ken
Hi Ken,


On the ARC installation CD that came with the MRX500, there are two files (.cal and .file extensions) with the serial numbers of the MRX500 and the ARC microphone as part of their file names. Copy these two files to the directory on the computer with ARC installed.


When you fire up ARC, it will ask you to select the serial number of the Anthem product you are running ARC for.


When my installation guy was showing me how to run ARC, he had to copy these two files from my ARC installation CD to his computer before running ARC.


Stanley


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* 
I have a D2 w/ARC and I just purchased a MRX500 which also has ARC. I already have ARC installed on my laptop for the D2. I've tried to install ARC for the MRX 500 but since I already have it installed for the D2 it won't let the ARC install for the 500. I read the manual and it says: To set up multiple systems using one computer copy the 2 serialized files from each arc cd to the following directory once arc is installed:

C:\\ProgramFiles\\Anthem\\AnthemRoomCorrection


Could someone give easy detailed instructions on how to do this?


Thanks,

Ken
Load the ARC disk in your laptop.


If you have Autostart on your DVD drive and the program starts automatically cancel and exit the program.


Go to My Computer on your desktop and open it.

Double click on your DVD drive

The files on the DVD will appear.

Right click on the serialized file xxxxxx_xxxxxxAnthem.file

Select copy

Go to your hard drive in the My Computer explorer tree and find the

Program Files folder.

Left click on Program Files and find Anthem in the list of programs.

Left click on Anthem.

You should see the Room Correction Folder

Right click on the Room Correction Folder and select paste

Now go back to the DVD disk files and right click on xxxxxx_xxxxxx.cal

Select copy.

Go back to the Room Correction Folder in the Anthem Program Files and right click on Room Correction.

Select paste.

Now Left click on Room Correction and check that you have two sets of .file and .cal files in the folder which now includes the serialized files you just moved there.

When you run ARC you will have to select the correct serialized file for the D2 or MX500


Hope this helped.


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks for the detailed instructions but I only have one file with a number.That's the Anthem.file with my 500's serial #.I don't see any file for the mic.

I checked the Serial # on the microphone and it's the same as the MRX 500 serial number. Is this normal? The D2 has 2 different #'s.


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* 
Thanks for the detailed instructions but I only have one file with a number.That's the Anthem.file with my 500's serial #.I don't see any file for the mic.

I checked the Serial # on the microphone and it's the same as the MRX 500 serial number. Is this normal? The D2 has 2 different #'s.
My Arc disk for the D2v has 11 files on it.

there is a .file and a .cal file. Both have the unit serial number and the microphone number.

Possibly they changed the setup for the MX500.

I would check with Anthem on Monday


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/20561262
> 
> 
> Thanks for the detailed instructions but I only have one file with a number.That's the Anthem.file with my 500's serial #.I don't see any file for the mic.
> 
> I checked the Serial # on the microphone and it's the same as the MRX 500 serial number. Is this normal? The D2 has 2 different #'s.



There is only the one file for the MRX. They are all licensed by default where all D2's are not thus the extra file for the D2.


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks guys, ARC is up and running on the 500.


thestewman, thanks for the great detail. Your instructions should go into the 1st page of tweaks or a sticky file.


Ken


----------



## MStanic

Just moved my D2v setup onto a Panny 4000 projector from a Pioneer plasma. Was using a slightly higher quality HDMI audioquest cable with plasma and now a notch lower quality on the Panny 4000 but still a good audioquest cable. Both are 1.3 compliant. Since moving it over yesterday, noticed some issues and have some questions/concerns. Any help would be most appreciated.


How do I compensate for the audio being much louder using the BluRay source vs the Bell HD TV source. For example, BluRay plays loud at -45 on the volume knob but switching to Bell HD TV at -45 is extremely low volume (have to go up to about -30 just to get sound equivalent to -45 on BluRay source). Switching sources is where it becomes evident as going from Bell HD TV at -30 to BluRay creates an enormous jump in volume...rather startling and unexpected.


Does the Anthem D2v care it it's connected to a power line conditioner?


I just recently hooked it up to the Panny 4000 projector via an AudioQuest HDMI cable. I notice that I sometimes get where the volume just stops working but switching sources brings the volume back or sometimes I need to power the D2V off/on to get the volume back. This has happened twice since I hooked up the D2v to the Panny 4000 yesterday. It happened while using two different sources.


While running ARC, I would get through the first position test tones ok. On the second position, I would start it and the test tone would not jump past the first speaker. It would just keep emitting the test tone from the first speaker and not move to the next. Shutting down/aborting the ARC application would not stop the test tone from emitting. I had to power off/on the D2v and restart. It would keep on doing the same on the second position/first tone. Finally, I got through it ok after powering off the power to the rack. I have never experienced this before. Any thoughts/comments.


Before running ARC, should I set the speaker distances, calibrate volume level to 75db for all channels manually and then run ARC.....or.... do I just set the D2v to factory defaults and run ARC?


I also have the Perfect Bass Kit...should I run this on my sub first and then ARC or ARC and then PBK?


I am running the most current ARC version and the D2v has the latest firmware by the way.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Has there been any recent information on when the Anthem D2v will be available with 1.4 HDMI ?

Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just moved my D2v setup onto a Panny 4000 projector from a Pioneer plasma. Was using a slightly higher quality HDMI audioquest cable with plasma and now a notch lower quality on the Panny 4000 but still a good audioquest cable. Both are 1.3 compliant. Since moving it over yesterday, noticed some issues and have some questions/concerns. Any help would be most appreciated.
> 
> 
> How do I compensate for the audio being much louder using the BluRay source vs the Bell HD TV source. For example, BluRay plays loud at -45 on the volume knob but switching to Bell HD TV at -45 is extremely low volume (have to go up to about -30 just to get sound equivalent to -45 on BluRay source). Switching sources is where it becomes evident as going from Bell HD TV at -30 to BluRay creates an enormous jump in volume...rather startling and unexpected.
> 
> 
> Does the Anthem D2v care it it's connected to a power line conditioner?
> 
> 
> I just recently hooked it up to the Panny 4000 projector via an AudioQuest HDMI cable. I notice that I sometimes get where the volume just stops working but switching sources brings the volume back or sometimes I need to power the D2V off/on to get the volume back. This has happened twice since I hooked up the D2v to the Panny 4000 yesterday. It happened while using two different sources.
> 
> 
> While running ARC, I would get through the first position test tones ok. On the second position, I would start it and the test tone would not jump past the first speaker. It would just keep emitting the test tone from the first speaker and not move to the next. Shutting down/aborting the ARC application would not stop the test tone from emitting. I had to power off/on the D2v and restart. It would keep on doing the same on the second position/first tone. Finally, I got through it ok after powering off the power to the rack. I have never experienced this before. Any thoughts/comments.
> 
> 
> Before running ARC, should I set the speaker distances, calibrate volume level to 75db for all channels manually and then run ARC.....or.... do I just set the D2v to factory defaults and run ARC?
> 
> 
> I also have the Perfect Bass Kit...should I run this on my sub first and then ARC or ARC and then PBK?
> 
> 
> I am running the most current ARC version and the D2v has the latest firmware by the way.



Call Anthem about the volume issue, I've never experienced this.


1. I have the tests tones continue but is a rare occurrence.

2. Do what you described for running ARC. However zero out all values and then set the test tone to 75 dB. Now set the sub to 75dB using the volume on the back of the sub.

3. Run PBK first, then ARC.


John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/20571628
> 
> 
> Just moved my D2v setup onto a Panny 4000 projector from a Pioneer plasma. Was using a slightly higher quality HDMI audioquest cable with plasma and now a notch lower quality on the Panny 4000 but still a good audioquest cable. Both are 1.3 compliant. Since moving it over yesterday, noticed some issues and have some questions/concerns. Any help would be most appreciated.
> 
> 
> How do I compensate for the audio being much louder using the BluRay source vs the Bell HD TV source. For example, BluRay plays loud at -45 on the volume knob but switching to Bell HD TV at -45 is extremely low volume (have to go up to about -30 just to get sound equivalent to -45 on BluRay source). Switching sources is where it becomes evident as going from Bell HD TV at -30 to BluRay creates an enormous jump in volume...rather startling and unexpected.





> Quote:
> You can adjust volume in the Anthem only for sources connected byanalog.
> 
> If your source is connected by digital (coax, optical or hdmi) you cannot adjust the relative volume in the Anthem.
> 
> Some sources, like my Oppo 93, have their own volume control. Check your owners manual or the appropriate AVS thread to see if your BR player has a volume control.





> Quote:
> Does the Anthem D2v care it it's connected to a power line conditioner?





> Quote:
> I believe the Anthem manual advises against power conditioners, but I have always used one since I have occaisional power surges, and have never had a problem. FWIW I use a PS Audio quintet.





> Quote:
> I just recently hooked it up to the Panny 4000 projector via an AudioQuest HDMI cable. I notice that I sometimes get where the volume just stops working but switching sources brings the volume back or sometimes I need to power the D2V off/on to get the volume back. This has happened twice since I hooked up the D2v to the Panny 4000 yesterday. It happened while using two different sources.





> Quote:
> Bob suggests not using 'auto' settings. Where possible use fixed settings for color space, etc. This seems to help with hdmi dropouts.





> Quote:
> While running ARC, I would get through the first position test tones ok. On the second position, I would start it and the test tone would not jump past the first speaker. It would just keep emitting the test tone from the first speaker and not move to the next. Shutting down/aborting the ARC application would not stop the test tone from emitting. I had to power off/on the D2v and restart. It would keep on doing the same on the second position/first tone. Finally, I got through it ok after powering off the power to the rack. I have never experienced this before. Any thoughts/comments.





> Quote:
> Try turning off your firewall while running ARC or doing firmware upgrades. I was having the same problem you are encountering and turning off the firewall temporarally cured it.





> Quote:
> Before running ARC, should I set the speaker distances, calibrate volume level to 75db for all channels manually and then run ARC.....or.... do I just set the D2v to factory defaults and run ARC?





> Quote:
> Set all volumes to 0. Set the 'Noise level' to 75db. Set you sub to 75db by adjusting the volume control on the back of your sub.
> 
> Speaker distances need to be set, but I think you can do that post-ARC.





> Quote:
> I also have the Perfect Bass Kit...should I run this on my sub first and then ARC or ARC and then PBK?





> Quote:
> Some people do , some don't. Try it without PBK first and see what your charts look like. If there good then leave PBK off. If the sub chart doesn't look good, then you can try PBK and ARC.
> 
> I would suggest using 'Quick Measure' to try different sub positions first, though.



Tom


Sorry for the 'quote'-fest.


----------



## rigman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/20573929
> 
> 
> Has there been any recent information on when the Anthem D2v will be available with 1.4 HDMI ?
> 
> Thanks



I was told by my dealer that my D2V HDMI upgrade will be now done in August.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/20574465
> 
> 
> If you edit the post to add the "/" to close the quotes, it will look much nicer.



Thanks Roger.

It's better, but not quite right.

Hopefully MSTanic can decypher it.


Tom


----------



## MStanic

Thanks for all of the responses...great feedback.


With regards to the video output settings, what should I choose for each knowing that I am using the Panny 4000 with a 16:9 (92inch diagonal) Stewart Firehawk G3.


Specifically, on the D2v, I am asking about these settings:


1a: VIDEO OUT CONFIG 1

a: S-VIDEO OSD: ?

b: PREFERRED ?

c: RESL'N ?

d: COLOR SPACE ?

e: DATA ?

f: OUTPUT ?

g: LETTERBOX ?

h: SYNC ?

i: COMPONENT OUT ?


My main source components are a Sony BDP-S50, PS3 and SAT HD PVR. I am assuming that these are the critical settings to allow that "hdmi handshake" to work quickly and seamlessly?


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rigman* /forum/post/20575889
> 
> 
> I was told by my dealer that my D2V HDMI upgrade will be now done in August.



Thanks. Appreciate it.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/20577082
> 
> 
> Thanks for all of the responses...great feedback.
> 
> 
> With regards to the video output settings, what should I choose for each knowing that I am using the Panny 4000 with a 16:9 (92inch diagonal) Stewart Firehawk G3.
> 
> 
> Specifically, on the D2v, I am asking about these settings:
> 
> 
> 1a: VIDEO OUT CONFIG 1
> 
> a: S-VIDEO OSD: ?
> 
> b: PREFERRED ?
> 
> c: RESL'N ?
> 
> d: COLOR SPACE ?
> 
> e: DATA ?
> 
> f: OUTPUT ?
> 
> g: LETTERBOX ?
> 
> h: SYNC ?
> 
> i: COMPONENT OUT ?
> 
> 
> My main source components are a Sony BDP-S50, PS3 and SAT HD PVR. I am assuming that these are the critical settings to allow that "hdmi handshake" to work quickly and seamlessly?



a=NTSC

b=HDMI

c=1920x1080p/60

d=HDTV

e=Studio RGB

f=12 Bit (lower to 8 if having problems)

g=Black

h=Normal

i=Passthru


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I need to perform a loudspeaker calibration at a customer that owns a D2v.

Since his loudspeakers have a built in high quality equalizer and 3 points controllable crossover I suggested that I will first equalize these speakers separately to squeeze the best out of them and only then run ARC.

I would normally use some RTA software but, in this specific case, I just thought I could use the ARC Quick Measure feature on each of these speakers in order to maximize their performance.


What do you think?

How does it compare to a standard RTA solution, with all the problems that it imposes such as mike type, software, settings, external soundcard, mike preamp, etc....?


Thank you


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/20580952
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I need to perform a loudspeaker calibration at a customer that owns a D2v.
> 
> Since his loudspeakers have a built in high quality equalizer and 3 points controllable crossover I suggested that I will first equalize these speakers separately to squeeze the best out of them and only then run ARC.
> 
> I would normally use some RTA software but, in this specific case, I just thought I could use the ARC Quick Measure feature on each of these speakers in order to maximize their performance.
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> How does it compare to a standard RTA solution, with all the problems that it imposes such as mike type, software, settings, external soundcard, mike preamp, etc....?
> 
> 
> Thank you



Sounds like the perfect use of QM.

It should show you any differences as you tweak each speaker.


Have fun and let us know how it worked.


Tom


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20580966
> 
> 
> Sounds like the perfect use of QM.
> 
> It should show you any differences as you tweak each speaker.
> 
> 
> Have fun and let us know how it worked.
> 
> 
> Tom



Great. Thanks.

And since you show some interest, just so as you know, I am talking about a pair of Apogee The Grand (only 27 issued worldwide!)

BTW, they are paired with 2 Velodyne DD-18 subs for movies.

I thought I would use the internal automatic equalizer (in manual mode of course), before I run ARC.

Any suggestions here?

Maybe I could control the outcome with the ARC's QM too?


Thanks


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20576088
> 
> 
> Thanks Roger.
> 
> It's better, but not quite right.
> 
> Hopefully MSTanic can decypher it.



Tom,

Almost there. Change the ones from "QUOTE/" to "/QUOTE" in 3 places.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Where is the power supply located in the D2v?

Thanks


----------



## rovingtravler

If the D2V is the same as the AVM50V it is basicly right behind the plug.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where is the power supply located in the D2v?
> 
> Thanks



Along the right side of the chassis as you face the front panel.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20586090
> 
> 
> Along the right side of the chassis as you face the front panel.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. I am trying one of those Shantki(sp?) stones

That is suppose to help with RF and EMI and they said

It is best on top of power supply! Let you know

If there is any difference in sound.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/20586804
> 
> 
> Thanks. I am trying one of those Shantki(sp?) stones
> 
> That is suppose to help with RF and EMI and they said
> 
> It is best on top of power supply! Let you know
> 
> If there is any difference in sound.



Did you pay cash up front for the "Stone " ?


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20587048
> 
> 
> Did you pay cash up front for the "Stone " ?



No, my brother had an extra one he was no longer using.

He had one for his amp, preamp & CD player. But when he changed

Preamps he no longer needed this one. ( they work better on some gear and not as well on other gear) so it is strictly a try out basis.

If I don't hear a difference I am sending it back to him.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/20587385
> 
> 
> No, my brother had an extra one he was no longer using.
> 
> He had one for his amp, preamp & CD player. But when he changed
> 
> Preamps he no longer needed this one. ( they work better on some gear and not as well on other gear) so it is strictly a try out basis.
> 
> If I don't hear a difference I am sending it back to him.



Keep it.

If it doesn't work on your pre-amp it will still work as a doorstop or paperweight..


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20587520
> 
> 
> Keep it.
> 
> If it doesn't work on your pre-amp it will still work as a doorstop or paperweight..



It would make a poor paperweight and doorstop as it does not weigh much .

Either the it reduces EMI and RF and makes Anthem sound better or it goes back. Though I may try it on my 5 channel amp first.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/20587989
> 
> 
> It would make a poor paperweight and doorstop as it does not weigh much .
> 
> Either the it reduces EMI and RF and makes Anthem sound better or it goes back. Though I may try it on my 5 channel amp first.



Leave it under your pillow. I hear the tooth fairy lkes to play with those rocks.


----------



## Bigmoviefan

Ha ha

Well I see a few are from the no tweaks ever

Work category! I enjoy trying them out.

Should not have bothered to explain.

Thought you guys actually enjoyed this hobby!

But really you guys are opening act at Hobo Jacks

Laugh factory!


----------



## Bigmoviefan

 http://www.gcaudio.com/products/reviews/infoshakti.html 


Read about this tweak at this link. I see no problem in trying out tweaks to improve performance of components. Part of the hobby.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/20588111
> 
> 
> Ha ha
> 
> Well I see a few are from the no tweaks ever
> 
> Work category! I enjoy trying them out.
> 
> Should not have bothered to explain.
> 
> Thought you guys actually enjoyed this hobby!
> 
> But really you guys are opening act at Hobo Jacks
> 
> Laugh factory!



Saw and listened to these at THE SHOW in Newport

Beach. Several exhibitors were using them.
Room Treatment - Acoustic Art


----------



## Texas steve

Tried one sometime ago, did nothing but empty my wallett










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20588084
> 
> 
> Leave it under your pillow. I hear the tooth fairy lkes to play with those rocks.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20477783
> 
> 
> Had a really strange glitch the other day. Turned the system on to watch some recorded shows on the pvr and the center channel wasn't working. All others were working but not properly, they sounded like they were fading out and breaking up like a radio station that's not quite tuned in. The D2v was receiving 2channel PCM and I had PLIIx Movie set.
> 
> 
> So I power cycled the D2v and that didn't help. I switched to the Blu-ray player and the misses had an old DVD which only had a stereo sound track. Same thing happened, no center channel and all others were on the fritz. So I stuck in a BD and low an behold with a 5.1 source it played fine.
> 
> 
> So I switched back to the pvr and no go. Power cycled a few times and after a while it fixed itself. Very strange indeed. But even stranger is the problem wasn't static, ie the sound would fade up and down in level without touching volume control, just like a radio station that's not quite tuned in.
> 
> 
> You could imagine my befuddlement for about 30min until this gremlin disappeared. What has me concerned is that there seems to be no reason that it occurred or why and how it fixed itself and it may occur at any time.
> 
> 
> Very weird indeed, I've never had AV gear have a brain snap like that before.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Just had this same problem again yesterday and again it didn't fix with power cycles or changing sources but slowly disappeared after about 30min.


It simply makes no sense at all.


Cheers


----------



## obie_fl

MACCA - What happens if you turn PLIIx off when it happens to these stereo sources? I assume you have a 7.1 system since you mentioned PLII*x* specifically. Only other thought I have would be a thermal issue... something needs to warm up?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20589213
> 
> 
> Just had this same problem again yesterday and again it didn't fix with power cycles or changing sources but slowly disappeared after about 30min.
> 
> It simply makes no sense at all.
> 
> 
> Cheers



In my experience with the Anthems ( AVM30 and D2 for me) when things are making no sense its probably a corrupted firmware.

Either it wasn't downloaded and uploaded properly, or it got corrupted by a power surge type incident.


Best to go back to step one.


Download a new copy of whatever firmware you are using from the Anthem website.

Turn off your firewall.

Carefully following the Anthem instructions step by step, reload the firmware.

Turn your firewall back on.


If your problems persist then you can first curse me for the extra work, then call Anthem tech tommorow.


Tom


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20590450
> 
> 
> MACCA - What happens if you turn PLIIx off when it happens to these stereo sources? I assume you have a 7.1 system since you mentioned PLII*x* specifically. Only other thought I have would be a thermal issue... something needs to warm up?



Tried all the other modes, Neo6, etc and issue was still present. Not sure why but I couldn't switch to Stereo mode. Heat wasn't an issue, was the first time it was turned on all day and ambient temp was around 20 degrees celcius. I suppose it could be that something had to warm up, but since this has only happened twice I would expect if that were the problem then it would happen every time I turn it on, which it doesn't.


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20590737
> 
> 
> In my experience with the Anthems ( AVM30 and D2 for me) when things are making no sense its probably a corrupted firmware.
> 
> Either it wasn't downloaded and uploaded properly, or it got corrupted by a power surge type incident.
> 
> 
> Best to go back to step one.
> 
> 
> Download a new copy of whatever firmware you are using from the Anthem website.
> 
> Turn off your firewall.
> 
> Carefully following the Anthem instructions step by step, reload the firmware.
> 
> Turn your firewall back on.
> 
> 
> If your problems persist then you can first curse me for the extra work, then call Anthem tech tommorow.
> 
> 
> Tom



Worth a try I guess but from memory I have already previously reloaded this firmware so this would be the third install of this firmware version. Previous reinstall went without a hitch. I was planning to wait till 2.11 was officially released though and update then.


Cheers


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/20589147
> 
> 
> Tried one sometime ago, did nothing but empty my wallett



Some Components do a better job of shielding the power supply than others.

This product seems to work better with my multi-channel amp then with the Anthem processor. Amp also has larger power supply than Anthem. Anyway it works on some components and not on others.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20516455
> 
> 
> AVFile,
> 
> 
> I do have everything set to 4:2:2 and nothing to auto
> 
> 
> Did you have frame lock on in the video settings? When I changed that from no to yes the Anthem picked up the correct signal right away.



No, I don't (can't) use FRAME LOCK.


----------



## tngiloy

I have ordered an RF base station to use with my URC MX-900 remote.

I got it mainly to use with my Oppo 93, since it doesn't always work with IR commands unless it is pointed directly at the unit.

I would also like to use it with my D2. I know I can set it up with the little IR flasher attatchment that will come with the MRF-260, but if possible I would like to use the IR in connections on the back of the D2. I'm not sure how to hook it up, though.

The Oppo uses an 1/8'' mono male/male cable to connect to its IR in, but the D2 has that little green block on the back. It has 3 separate connections plus a ground. Is there a special tpye of connector for this type of connection, or can I cannibalize the same type of cable I bought for the Oppo, or one of the IR flasher cables that comes with the unit, and make it work with the D2?


Tom


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tngiloy* 
The Oppo uses an 1/8'' mono male/male cable to connect to its IR in, but the D2 has that little green block on the back. It has 3 separate connections plus a ground. Is there a special tpye of connector for this type of connection, or can I cannibalize the same type of cable I bought for the Oppo, or one of the IR flasher cables that comes with the unit, and make it work with the D2?

Tom
I have one of these I use on my D2V. Cannibalization works fine. Just cut off one of the emitters and connect the wires to positions 1 and ground on the green block. The block is removable making it an easy process.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20595221
> 
> 
> I have one of these I use on my D2V. Cannibalization works fine. Just cut off one of the emitters and connect the wires to positions 1 and ground on the green block. The block is removable making it an easy process.



Excellent!


Thanks for the quick reply.


Tom


----------



## p.las

i have tried that on my bdp 83. maby i have connectet it up wrong. can i use the IR eye on my anthem to control my Oppo bdp 83. i have tryed witt a mini jack cable from Anthem emitter out, inn to oppos IR in. th e only thing there is happen, is that my Oppo turns off.

my oppo is out off reach from my remote


----------



## tngiloy

Quote:

Originally Posted by *p.las* 
i have tried that on my bdp 83. maby i have connectet it up wrong. can i use the IR eye on my anthem to control my Oppo bdp 83. i have tryed witt a mini jack cable from Anthem emitter out, inn to oppos IR in. th e only thing there is happen, is that my Oppo turns off.

my oppo is out off reach from my remote
According to the D2v manual (sections 2.5, 2.6) the D2v will only send out signals thru its IR emitters that have been received thru the IR receicer on the back of the D2v.

IR signals received thru the IR receiver in the front panel display from a remote or flasher will *not* be transmitted thru the rear panel IR emitter.


There is the *IR-ES1 External IR sensor For BDP-83* available on the Oppo website for $20 that could work for you.


Tom


----------



## BillW

The Oppo 83 also uses an unusual cable with mono on one end and stereo on the other end. You can buy it from Oppo for $3 I believe.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillW* /forum/post/20603385
> 
> 
> The Oppo 83 also uses an unusual cable with mono on one end and stereo on the other end. You can buy it from Oppo for $3 I believe.



You can plug the BDP-83 cable directly into the RF base station. The stereo end goes into the BDP-83.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20589213
> 
> 
> Just had this same problem again yesterday and again it didn't fix with power cycles or changing sources but slowly disappeared after about 30min.
> 
> 
> It simply makes no sense at all.
> 
> 
> Cheers



This just happened for the third time now. Was able to narrow it down to the center channel, though at first it seemed to affect the others also. Setting to Stereo at first(had to change in the Modes menu) seemed to affect the L/R channels but not to the same degree. After a little while only the center channel was affected, ie stereo sounded fine Mono, or PLIIx or other mode that used the center channel caused this issue to show up.


After a little while, or maybe from the start(cant be certain), any sound out of the center channel was very low in volume and turning volume up caused distortion which sounded like signal clipping or similar to a radio station that's not tuned in right or a loose connection.


I was using the PVR so I switched to the BD player and put in a CD. Same thing, stereo was fine, Mono or PLIIx or other mode(all channel stereo etc) that used the center channel caused this issue to show up. I tried wiggling the XLR connections and cables from D2v to the speakers and that didn't help


So I ruled out the source device, source content, source connections and XLR output cables as the culprit. So I power cycled the center speaker(Seaton Catalyst) a couple of times, problem still present. I leave the Catalysts powered on all the time so there is no possible 'warm up' issue that could be attributed to them.


Next thing I did, with the D2v still running and source playing, was to power off the front Catalysts and put the input cable from the center speaker to the right speaker. Powered them on again and the problem did not follow the cable to the right speaker. Here I thought maybe the problem was the center speaker, that was until I put the cable back to the center speaker......the problem was gone. It would seem my time to diagnose was up(about 30min had passed).


So, anyone else had this kind of an issue. I'm about 95% certain the D2v is causing this problem. There's probably a 5% chance the center Catalyst is to blame. Until this happens again, and it only occures when the D2v has been cold powered on(it's winter here) so won't show up for a while.


I need to be certain before I send it back.


Cheers


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20604295
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing I did, with the D2v still running and source playing, was to power off the front Catalysts and put the input cable from the center speaker to the right speaker. Powered them on again and the problem did not follow the cable to the right speaker. Here I thought maybe the problem was the center speaker, that was until I put the cable back to the center speaker......the problem was gone. It would seem my time to diagnose was up(about 30min had passed).
> 
> 
> So, anyone else had this kind of an issue. I'm about 95% certain the D2v is causing this problem. There's probably a 5% chance the center Catalyst is to blame. Until this happens again, and it only occures when the D2v has been cold powered on(it's winter here) so won't show up for a while.
> 
> 
> I need to be certain before I send it back.
> 
> 
> Cheers



It seems like it could be an intermittent connection to or within the center speaker and moving the cable made it work again. If I were you I'd find another speaker to put in place of the center for a while.


Maybe you could also try RCA vs XLR outputs from the D2V.


Also instead of swapping with a different speaker just disconnect and reconnect the center.


----------



## obie_fl

I'd physically swap the center with either right or left and see if it moves. That would rule out the Catalysts for sure. Have you asked Mark about this? Maybe it is something he has seen before.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20604372
> 
> 
> It seems like it could be an intermittent connection to or within the center speaker and moving the cable made it work again. If I were you I'd find another speaker to put in place of the center for a while.
> 
> 
> Maybe you could also try RCA vs XLR outputs from the D2V.
> 
> 
> Also instead of swapping with a different speaker just disconnect and reconnect the center.



Already wiggled the connections while issue was present and that didn't fix it or change the sound of the issue. Usually you'll hear a change as you wiggle a loose cable or connection.


If/when it happens again I'll disconnect/reconnect the center speaker. If that does nothing I'll connect the center cable to the right speaker. That will eliminate/confirm the possibility of this being caused by the speaker. I'm not swapping out the center speaker unless absolutely nessisary as they weigh a ton.


I highly doubt this is a cable or speaker issue. It only seems to occur when the D2v is cold powered on.


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20604997
> 
> 
> I'd physically swap the center with either right or left and see if it moves. That would rule out the Catalysts for sure. Have you asked Mark about this? Maybe it is something he has seen before.



The problem only lasts for about 30min after the D2v is cold powered on, so my time to diagnose is limited. I tried what you suggested by connecting the center channel XLR cable to the right speaker, problem was gone. But when I moved the cable back to the center speaker to confirm the issue was still present the issue was gone. So I cannot confirm whether the issue was fixed during changing the cable to the right speaker or back to the center speaker. In other words I haven't ruled in or out the speaker as my 30min window was up.


Next time I'll perform that check almost straight away so I should be able to confirm the cause component. Haven't spoken to Mark as I don't know if it's the speaker.


Cheers


----------



## dmusoke

Right now, I have a 5.1 ribbon speaker system but I don't feel my horizontally mounted center speaker(directly under the plasma TV) is a good fit(from an audio point of view) even though all speakers are from the same manufacturer. Its about 2.5 feet from the floor while the rest of the speakers are almost 4 feet off the floor.


My question is, what would happen if i go from a 5.1 speaker setup to a 4.1 system, thus eliminating the center speaker? Do i need to re-ARC or simply upload the new setup?



Thanks,

David


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20605176
> 
> 
> Right now, I have a 5.1 ribbon speaker system but I don't feel my horizontally mounted center speaker(directly under the plasma TV) is a good fit(from an audio point of view) even though all speakers are from the same manufacturer. Its about 2.5 feet from the floor while the rest of the speakers are almost 4 feet off the floor.
> 
> 
> My question is, what would happen if i go from a 5.1 speaker setup to a 4.1 system, thus eliminating the center speaker? Do i need to re-ARC or simply upload the new setup?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



Depends on your system's ability to image correctly in your seating position(s) as to if you will be good to go with a 4.1 system.


If I am by myself, I frequently turn off the center channel and run a 6.1 system.


You should not need to re-ARC, but if you permanently turn off your center channel speaker, I would because there will be more resources dedicated to the other speakers by not having the center in the set-up.



Ed


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20605176
> 
> 
> Right now, I have a 5.1 ribbon speaker system but I don't feel my horizontally mounted center speaker(directly under the plasma TV) is a good fit(from an audio point of view) even though all speakers are from the same manufacturer. Its about 2.5 feet from the floor while the rest of the speakers are almost 4 feet off the floor.
> 
> 
> My question is, what would happen if i go from a 5.1 speaker setup to a 4.1 system, thus eliminating the center speaker? Do i need to re-ARC or simply upload the new setup?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



You shouldn't have to do the measurement part. You could open up your last measurement and remove the center speaker, recalculate and upload.


I'm thinking of trying my system without the center also. I have a second system without the center and it seems to image better than the one with the center.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/20607763
> 
> 
> Depends on your system's ability to image correctly in your seating position(s) as to if you will be good to go with a 4.1 system.
> 
> 
> If I am by myself, I frequently turn off the center channel and run a 6.1 system.
> 
> 
> You should not need to re-ARC, but if you permanently turn off your center channel speaker, I would because there will be more resources dedicated to the other speakers by not having the center in the set-up.
> 
> 
> 
> Ed





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/20608342
> 
> 
> You shouldn't have to do the measurement part. You could open up your last measurement and remove the center speaker, recalculate and upload.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of trying my system without the center also. I have a second system without the center and it seems to image better than the one with the center.



Thanks Ed and Shrike ...


Now what happens to all that bass and dialog that is directed into the center channel. Would that be panned into the left/right speakers with no overload issues?


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *dmusoke* 
Thanks Ed and Shrike ...


Now what happens to all that bass and dialog that is directed into the center channel. Would that be panned into the left/right speakers with no overload issues?
Suggestion!


Have you tried listening to your music with a music source set as analog direct or DSP in 2 channel Stereo. Then you would get the correct imaging and still have the correct setup for your video sources.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20609877
> 
> 
> Suggestion!
> 
> 
> Have you tried listening to your music with a music source set as analog direct or DSP in 2 channel Stereo. Then you would get the correct imaging and still have the correct setup for your video sources.



Actually yes, i have done so. But music stereo sources are coded different than movie sources which have lots of info placed in the center channel. So my concern was if any bass redirection from the (absent) center speaker would go to the LT/RT speakers causing possible overload.


----------



## AVfile

Has anyone else noticed this minor bug?


When feeding the Anthem with DTS-ES 6.1 Discrete the front panel sometimes displays "DTS 2.0 DISCRETE" text ... usually *after* pausing or skipping chapters on the DVD. It is purely a display glitch because pressing the INFO button shows that it is receiving and outputting the correct 7 or 8 channels. Pressing the INFO button or nudging the volume control causes the front panel display to refresh to the correct "DTS-ES 6.1 DISCRETE" text.


I have reported it to Tech Support...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20611997
> 
> 
> the front panel sometimes displays "DTS 2.0 DISCRETE" text ... usually when pausing or skipping chapters on the DVD.



How do you expect it to handle audio when *Pausing* & *Skipping*


----------



## AVfile

Sorry I meant:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20611997
> 
> 
> the front panel sometimes displays "DTS 2.0 DISCRETE" text ... usually *after* pausing or skipping chapters on the DVD.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20612238
> 
> 
> Sorry I meant:



That is way different.


Does it come back to normal AFTER the SKIP or PAUSE.


----------



## AVfile

No, it will stay that way for the rest of the movie unless you do something that forces the display text to update.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20612494
> 
> 
> No, it will stay that way for the rest of the movie unless you do something that forces the display text to update.



Then that does sound like a BUG.


Have you e-mail Anthem?


----------



## AVfile

Yes but I was asking in case anyone else has seen this, if they could e-mail Anthem too.


----------



## MACCA350

Anthem have been aware of the channel identification(and signal format) display glitch for some time. It's also not unique to just the format you mentioned, though it seems you've found a format and action that makes the glitch repeatable. Hopefully that in itself will be of help to create a fix.


Cheers


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anthem have been aware of the channel identification(and signal format) display glitch for some time. It's also not unique to just the format you mentioned, though it seems you've found a format and action that makes the glitch repeatable. Hopefully that in itself will be of help to create a fix.
> 
> 
> Cheers



MACCA350,

When playing DTS-MA tracks through your oppo as PCM, do you notice a difference in volume b/t that and bitstreaming? I find I now set volume to -16 for PCM where I used to set bitstreaming to -18

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20613001
> 
> 
> MACCA350,
> 
> When playing DTS-MA tracks through your oppo as PCM, do you notice a difference in volume b/t that and bitstreaming? I find I now set volume to -16 for PCM where I used to set bitstreaming to -18
> 
> John



John,

Are you trying to be cheeky?







We just had a several page discussion here about these DTS-MA volume level findings about 2 weeks ago. Look for posts by p.las, MACCA and me.










In fact you were in the thick of it:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8260&page=1123


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20613060
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> Are you trying to be cheeky? :roll eyes: We just had a several page discussion here about these DTS-MA volume level findings about 2 weeks ago. Look for posts by p.las, MECCA and me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact you were in the thick of it:
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8260&page=1123



While I may have been in the "thick of it", with all the info on the topic it escaped me what the answer to my question was. Now it has occurred to me that I have helped people in this forum on many occasions and answered questions that were previously asked many times, but did it without sarcasm or insinuating someone was being lazy, amnesiac or cheeky







The answer requires a yes or no. If you don't want to answer, then don't.

John


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20610814
> 
> 
> Actually yes, i have done so. But music stereo sources are coded different than movie sources which have lots of info placed in the center channel. So my concern was if any bass redirection from the (absent) center speaker would go to the LT/RT speakers causing possible overload.



It will not present any problem.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20613001
> 
> 
> MACCA350,
> 
> When playing DTS-MA tracks through your oppo as PCM, do you notice a difference in volume b/t that and bitstreaming? I find I now set volume to -16 for PCM where I used to set bitstreaming to -18
> 
> John



Absolutely. Here's a link to a post with all the charts http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post20532129 


Looking at the second last chart I found a 3dB increase while bitstreaming to the D2v. There's also another 3dB increase when using PLIIx, whether it's bitstreamed or not.


Note that this only applies to DTS-HDMA 5.1 not DTS-HDMA 7.1 as you'll notice in the last chart.

Also note that there's also the issue of the L/R channels being reduced by 3dB on both DTS-HDMA 5.1 and DTS-HDMA 7.1 when bitstreaming.


Cheers


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Absolutely. Here's a link to a post with all the charts http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post20532129
> 
> 
> Looking at the second last chart I found a 3dB increase while bitstreaming to the D2v. There's also another 3dB increase when using PLIIx, whether it's bitstreamed or not.
> 
> 
> Note that this only applies to DTS-HDMA 5.1 not DTS-HDMA 7.1 as you'll notice in the last chart.
> 
> Also note that there's also the issue of the L/R channels being reduced by 3dB on both DTS-HDMA 5.1 and DTS-HDMA 7.1 when bitstreaming.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Thanks, appreciate the link and info.

John


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20613898
> 
> 
> Thanks, appreciate the link and info.
> 
> John



No worries mate










Cheers


----------



## benleeys

Have any of you guys had the experience of not being able to bring the Setup menu onto your screen after watching a movie?


When the D2v is first switched on, everything is fine, but after a movie, I am usually unable to do so and have to depend on the display window to make my adjustments. I said 'usually' because occasionally, there's no problem.


I am wondering if some internal contacts have become bad after the unit has been sufficiently warmed up.


Ben


----------



## Texas steve

Yep, it happens sometimes. its a "snyc" ing fee







ling!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/20615257
> 
> 
> Have any of you guys had the experience of not being able to bring the Setup menu onto your screen after watching a movie?
> 
> 
> When the D2v is first switched on, everything is fine, but after a movie, I am usually unable to do so and have to depend on the display window to make my adjustments. I said 'usually' because occasionally, there's no problem.
> 
> 
> I am wondering if some internal contacts have become bad after the unit has been sufficiently warmed up.
> 
> 
> Ben


----------



## RIppolito

Good people,


I have been away for a long time. When I go to the Anthem web site, there is a ton of info about their current products, but nothing about the AVM 50.


Can someone please help me with the following questions...
what is the latest firmware version for the AVM 50?
what is the latest ARC version I should use?
Where can I get these two upgrades?


Thanks in advance for the help.

Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good people,
> 
> 
> I have been away for a long time. When I go to the Anthem web site, there is a ton of info about their current products, but nothing about the AVM 50.
> 
> 
> Can someone please help me with the following questions...
> 
> 
> [*]what is the latest firmware version for the AVM 50?[*]what is the latest ARC version I should use?[*]Where can I get these two upgrades?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help.
> 
> Ron



The ARC kit for the original AVM 50 is THE SAME as for the newer prepros. Download the ARC 3.01 kit from the D2v or AVM 50v page.


The firmware is V1.33. Look for the Search function on the Anthem page and search for "discontinued" and you'll find the link to the firmware downloads for the older products.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20613702
> 
> 
> Absolutely. Here's a link to a post with all the charts http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post20532129
> 
> 
> Looking at the second last chart I found a 3dB increase while bitstreaming to the D2v. There's also another 3dB increase when using PLIIx, whether it's bitstreamed or not.
> 
> 
> Note that this only applies to DTS-HDMA 5.1 not DTS-HDMA 7.1 as you'll notice in the last chart.
> 
> Also note that there's also the issue of the L/R channels being reduced by 3dB on both DTS-HDMA 5.1 and DTS-HDMA 7.1 when bitstreaming.
> 
> 
> Cheers



The disc I was referring to was a DTS MA 6.1, so there was no processing, yet there was a diff in volume of about 2-3 dB b/t bitstreaming and pcm. From what I saw on your chart 6.1 needs to be processed to show the volume level diff. Is that correct?

John


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/20615459
> 
> 
> Yep, it happens sometimes. its a "snyc" ing fee
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ling!



Glad to know I'm not alone with this problem. It's just an irritation - guess not worth bothering Anthem about.


Thanks

Ben


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20616095
> 
> 
> The disc I was referring to was a DTS MA 6.1, so there was no processing, yet there was a diff in volume of about 2-3 dB b/t bitstreaming and pcm. From what I saw on your chart 6.1 needs to be processed to show the volume level diff. Is that correct?
> 
> John



To my knowledge I haven't tested any MA 6.1 tracks, so I can't give you a definitive answer on that one.


From what you're saying it looks like MA 6.1 may have similar issues as MA 5.1 not MA 7.1. In which case there would be a 3dB increase via bitstreaming and an additional 3dB increase if using PLIIx.


Cheers


----------



## rovingtravler

There is an ARC 3.02, but it is a change only needed for the MRX receivers not for AVM or D2.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/20616373
> 
> 
> Glad to know I'm not alone with this problem. It's just an irritation - guess not worth bothering Anthem about.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ben



It's always worth bothering, manufacturers generally won't bother fixing small bugs unless there are enough complaints. So if people don't bother complaining, Anthem won't bother fixing.


Cheers


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To my knowledge I haven't tested any MA 6.1 tracks, so I can't give you a definitive answer on that one.
> 
> 
> From what you're saying it looks like MA 6.1 may have similar issues as MA 5.1 not MA 7.1. In which case there would be a 3dB increase via bitstreaming and an additional 3dB increase if using PLIIx.
> 
> 
> Cheers



This was using LOTR Extended Edtion DTSMA 6.1. I'm sure you'll get your hands on it and try it









John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/20615459
> 
> 
> Yep, it happens sometimes. its a "snyc" ing fee
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ling!



My 6 month old D2v also fails to display the setup screen at least 60% of the time. Is there a solution to this problem?


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20616615
> 
> 
> This was using LOTR Extended Edtion DTSMA 6.1. I'm sure you'll get your hands on it and try it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



I Should have some laying around, if I find any I'll test them out and let you know.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> This was using LOTR Extended Edtion DTSMA 6.1. I'm sure you'll get your hands on it and try it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Some of these "6.1" tracks can be confusing. This may be a 5.1 lossless track with the rear channel info matrixed into an ES lossy Core track.


That alters the decoding.


For example the Oppo decoding doesn't even try to extract that Rear from the lossy ES matrix. Thus PLIIx does it in the Anthem.


More fun with the ridiculous over complexity of the DTS codecs.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Some of these "6.1" tracks can be confusing. This may be a 5.1 lossless track with the rear channel info matrixed into an ES lossy Core track.
> 
> 
> That alters the decoding.
> 
> 
> For example the Oppo decoding doesn't even try to extract that Rear from the lossy ES matrix. Thus PLIIx does it in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> More fun with the ridiculous over complexity of the DTS codecs.
> 
> --Bob



It still sounded very impressive but I know your right on how crazy it is. Maybe they should have stuck with True HD.

John


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20616603
> 
> 
> It's always worth bothering, manufacturers generally won't bother fixing small bugs unless there are enough complaints. So if people don't bother complaining, Anthem won't bother fixing.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Actually, a few months back, I did email Andrew about it. He came back with half a dozen suggestions on my settings, but none of them solved this issue. After a dozen or so emailing back and forth, I simply got tired of the whole thing, seeing that he wasn't ready to concede that it might be an inherent fault in the unit.


Guess I did my part on this issue. So if any of you guys do experience this problem, it would help if you would .... well, you know what to do.


Thing is, when $2-500 BR players can incorporate a sophisticated looking on screen menu display which works without fail, what is an $8,000 D2v doing with a crude looking S-Video generated (correct me if I've got it wrong) menu which is so problematic? I got rid of my old D2 partly on account of, amongst other issues, problems with the menu too.


Sorry for the rant. Guess you triggered something bottled up in me, Macca.


Ben


----------



## AVfile

I hear you Ben.


----------



## yacht422

i have not been here for a few months -but -just re-did the acoustics.

how do the charts look?

thx

walt


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i have not been here for a few months -but -just re-did the acoustics.
> 
> how do the charts look?
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



These look very good. Try setting in ARC, the sub high pass filter to Flat and then recalculate. See if that flattens the sub curve as it approaches 20Hz. If it does, try uploading this and give it a listen. Post the sub chart so we can see for ourselves









John


----------



## obie_fl

Walt - I'm also a little curious at those bumps in your subwoofer at 1K and 2K. Is it possible your sub is causing something to resonate or rattle in the room? Normally I wouldn't bother but it looks like ARC may be using some resources to correct it.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/20620458
> 
> 
> i have not been here for a few months -but -just re-did the acoustics.
> 
> how do the charts look?
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



Walt:


Your reference level is set at 65dB instead of 75dB. Need to re-measure and change the Test Level to provide a reference volume of 75dB after setting all trims to 0dB. Ditto for the subwoofer via its gain knob after settins its trim levels to 0dB.


David


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Walt - I'm also a little curious at those bumps in your subwoofer at 1K and 2K. Is it possible your sub is causing something to resonate or rattle in the room? Normally I wouldn't bother but it looks like ARC may be using some resources to correct it.



Tom,

I don't think ARC uses any resources in that range.

John


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/20621058
> 
> 
> Walt:
> 
> 
> Your reference level is set at 65dB instead of 75dB. Need to re-measure and change the Test Level to provide a reference volume of 75dB after setting all trims to 0dB. Ditto for the subwoofer via its gain knob after settins its trim levels to 0dB.
> 
> 
> David


david:i am one of those folks that cannot achieve 75 db. we are a select few, but we are out here..

so, i am stuck at 65 dB, however, as noted by others with the same 'issue', at -10dB, the listening volume is where it usually is (was).

thx for the response

walt


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20621019
> 
> 
> Walt - I'm also a little curious at those bumps in your subwoofer at 1K and 2K. Is it possible your sub is causing something to resonate or rattle in the room? Normally I wouldn't bother but it looks like ARC may be using some resources to correct it.



tom, the room is solid as a rock(purpose built room) nothing rattles- i had checked for that very issue in the past.

thx for the recommendation.

walt


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20620721
> 
> 
> These look very good. Try setting in ARC, the sub high pass filter to Flat and then recalculate. See if that flattens the sub curve as it approaches 20Hz. If it does, try uploading this and give it a listen. Post the sub chart so we can see for ourselves
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


john: will do - have set it at flat in the past(servo 15's will take the heat) forgot to do it this measurement.

i'll post;

thx

walt


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> john: will do - have set it at flat in the past(servo 15's will take the heat) forgot to do it this measurement.
> 
> i'll post;
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



My previous sub, a solid worker and capable in the Flat area.

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/20621256
> 
> david:i am one of those folks that cannot achieve 75 db. we are a select few, but we are out here..
> 
> so, i am stuck at 65 dB, however, as noted by others with the same 'issue', at -10dB, the listening volume is where it usually is (was).
> 
> thx for the response
> 
> walt



I had a problem getting my 'noise level' to 75db a while back.

After trying to figure out why I could not raise it to the recommended 75db level, and becoming frustrated that I couldn't, I checked all my settings.

I had child-proofed the 'main max vol' (volume/path names-C) from the default +10 to -10.

After I reset it temporarally to the default +10, I was able to obtain the 75db 'noise level' and ran ARC.


I don't know if you have limited your 'main max volume' in your settings, but if you have you will be able to set your noise level to 75db by temporally disabling it.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422* /forum/post/20620458
> 
> 
> i have not been here for a few months -but -just re-did the acoustics.
> 
> how do the charts look?
> 
> thx
> 
> walt



Have you changed the cutoff points ? Your L/F and R/F speakers appear capable of providing a wider response down low.

You have a huge overlap with the sub going to 120hz and the L/R front speakers going down to 60hz.

I notice you have two different setups one for movies and one for music.

Why have you set the Max EQ frequency response different for the two setups ?

Which set up are you displaying with these charts ?


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20616095
> 
> 
> The disc I was referring to was a DTS MA 6.1, so there was no processing, yet there was a diff in volume of about 2-3 dB b/t bitstreaming and pcm. From what I saw on your chart 6.1 needs to be processed to show the volume level diff. Is that correct?
> 
> John



Just tested using X-Men The Last Stand(AU region B release) which has a DTS-HDMA 6.1 track. One issue though is that the OPPO player will only output it as 5.1 when set to PCM output. When set to Bitstream the D2v shows it's receiving 6.1 and the only way I can turn off processing is to set the speaker configuration to 6.1. So as far as I can tell the D2v picks up on the rear channel when it's decoding the bitstream but the OPPO won't decode the rear channel. I'm not sure whether this means the track is matrix and not discrete or whether the OPPO simply won't decode the rear channel.


Anyway the simple test between bitstream and PCM with no PLIIx, NEO:6 etc processing showed a *3dB(+/-0.2dB) increase on the center channel while bitstreaming DTS-HDMA 6.1*.

I ran a few 1-2min dialog scene A-wtd LEQ tests at both -10dB and 0dB master volume with only the center channel active. The reason I used only the center channel was to eliminate any possible influence of the 'L/R reduced by 3dB' issue.


It would seem the 3dB increase may be common to all DTS-HDMA formats.


Cheers


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20616997
> 
> 
> It still sounded very impressive but I know your right on how crazy it is. Maybe they should have stuck with True HD.
> 
> John



yes. True HD is the way to go.

for some reasons true HD still go for the reference level, where DTS hd is all over the place. all the mowies i got where there is True HD , i can hit reference level. that is not the case whit DTS HD - fare from


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20621109
> 
> 
> Tom,
> 
> I don't think ARC uses any resources in that range.
> 
> John



Yea I thought so too but it is still showing up in the green line. Maybe the sub rolloff is more gradual then I thought. The other reason I pointed it out is that those peaks are coming from some where (hopefully not the sub itself) and should be remedied. It could just be spurious noise and won't show back up in subsequent measurements. I find it a curiosity more then anything and you know what they say about curiosity.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/20622562
> 
> 
> Yea I thought so too but it is still showing up in the green line. Maybe the sub rolloff is more gradual then I thought. The other reason I pointed it out is that those peaks are coming from some where (hopefully not the sub itself) and should be remedied. It could just be spurious noise and won't show back up in subsequent measurements. I find it a curiosity more then anything and you know what they say about curiosity.



Killed the Cat







Maybe it's a sub channel message from another galaxy.









John


----------



## yacht422

Quote:

Originally Posted by *thestewman* 
Have you changed the cutoff points ? Your L/F and R/F speakers appear capable of providing a wider response down low.

You have a huge overlap with the sub going to 120hz and the L/R front speakers going down to 60hz.

I notice you have two different setups one for movies and one for music.

Why have you set the Max EQ frequency response different for the two setups ?

Which set up are you displaying with these charts ?
this answer goes out to jayray and thestewman:

john: re:sub setting to "flat" vs: auto. there is no need to post charts, as the readings are identical. nothing moves at all -anywhere - So, unless i am doing something incorrectly(looks intuitive to me) perhaps arc has an issue. i really do not know.

as for thestewman, my speakers are revel ultima type II, and are capable to 30 hz.

i am a movie guy, so the music can be the same as movie, to me, it does not matter.

regarding the crossovers, that is what arc set - i have changed nothing.

do the x-overs look incorrect? why? where should they be? i have all speakers set to small, as recommended.(they are all revels, save for the two servo 15's.

thanks for the interest.

walt


----------



## BladeRnR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/20767745
> 
> 
> Hi Blade,
> 
> 
> Sorry I went overboard on this, just wanted to distinguish between spurious leakage and intended leakage (to which category does Olestra belong??).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I agree it needs fixing. Even if it is actually caused by remapping, the decoder is applying it inappropriately. If it is something other than remapping, well, that would need fixin', too.



Not at all Roger, I really enjoy your posts (Especially in the ADA thread). I'm simply miffed that Anthem have been aware of this issue via a User report for a year yet have not rectified it. In fact they've recreated the "bug" (I'm a Programmer so that's what it is to me!) in their lab and now say it's normal?











Let's hope they take it seriously and address it for all our sakes.


All the best


Blade


----------



## rovingtravler

ehlarson,


I was considering the ADA. Just because they are geared towards a differenttype of person does not mean I am not interested. I do not like that there are known issues and with the Anthems and Techsupport just says we do not see it that way. They are VERY responsive for most things, but not all. I was looking at the ADA, however in Denver they told me it would be 3 to 9 months before they could get me a demo unit because they cannot make them fast enough. To me that is not a good model. You always want to macke one less than is needed, but if you have a9 month back log that is too much.


I did not want to wait 9 months and then have to wait for a production run before I could get unit to keep. I like the difference in the functions and the basically "new" design, however I move a lot and do not want to have to pay to have the ADA set up every time. The main reason I discountedthe ADA was the time issue though. I was still using a B&K ref 30. The remote was almost dead, and no HD audio ... it was just time.


I still do not like the pops, and the amount of time the AVM50v takes to lock onto channel changes from cable TV (SD and HD). It has slowed or stoped my channel surfing. I do really like ARC as it greatly imporves the sound, especially in a non dedicated room that I do not want to do to much as I will be selling the house in 2 or 3 years or renting it out and onto the next.


I do not see the issues with the AVM50v as a show stopper and the more prosumer ADA was just not available for me to test (and still is not) I have calledc and they are not sure when they can get me one. I would still love to have both in my theater to test side by side.


I never said I was locked into a certain type or style of pre/pro though. Do you always buy the same type of car from the same company? I buy what I need when I need it from whomever can supply the item. Hopefully I will not need to change out the pre/pro for a long time, but only time will tell.


I hope that answers your question.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20767761
> 
> 
> Interesting, I wasn't aware these issues affected products other than the D2v.



I can confirm that the DTS level errors affect the 50v. I think it's safe to say *all* D2v firmware/software issues would affect the 50v since they are essentially the same processors now (not like the D2/50 days).



> Quote:
> Do you know if the MRX issue that FilmMixer posted also affects the D2v?
> 
> If so this is the first I've heard of it, can someone elaborate on it?



Good question, so I just ran my Disney optimizer (DTS-HD High Resolution 7.1) test again with DTS and DTS-ES processing modes set to NONE. *Same results*, so I confirm this MRX issue is *not* contributing to our DTS level bug.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20767684
> 
> 
> No speaker angle settings in the D2v that I can see. The only thing that comes close is the screen size setting, but as far as I know the D2v uses that setting to only apply an EQ to the center speaker(though I believe it's bypassed when ARC is engaged). No mention of DTS remapping anywhere in the manual.



There are also the REAR / SIDE speaker types (DIPOLE, DIRECT). I wonder if they contribute to some kind of blending function, but it would make no sense that it would only affect DTS.

_Side note:_ My last THX Ultra2 certified processor (Lexicon) has a REAR speaker separation setting (TOGETHER, CLOSE, FAR) and I hadn't realized it was missing from the Anthem.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /forum/post/20765343
> 
> 
> Just get an Oppo and set it up for PCM or use trims to fix the level issues until Anthem fixes the firmware.



Actually you might not want to get an Oppo for PCM output. I hear they use a budget "DTS Essentials" decoder which means it won't output the matrixed rear channel from DTS-HDMA 5.1 ES soundtracks. Ideally you would want the 5.1 + matrixed channel decoded as PCM 6.1 but it will actually show up as PCM 5.1 and then you have to use your brain and ensure the Anthem extracts the matrixed channel using NEO:6 or some other mode (see Operating Manual section 4.8.5 on p.57).


I'm not sure if it affects all models of Oppo but my Sony 770 doesn't do it either. It can apply Neo:6 Cinema/Music right in the player but it gets output as PCM 7.1 so it is not the native 6.1 mix. It is the main reason I still use bitstream output and let the Anthem do all the work (and grudgingly apply the trims to make it correct, as you said in the latter part of your post).

*edit:* In my latest post I have uncovered another issue in the Anthem which could mean it has the same problem decoding DTS-HDMA 5.1 ES soundtracks. I would really like to know if there is a player out there that does this correctly (output as PCM 6.1).


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BladeRnR* /forum/post/20767734
> 
> 
> P.S I've switched my Marantz UD9004 to PCM to negate the issue.



Nice flagship player. I'm curious; does it have a "DTS Essentials" decoder or do you get PCM 6.1 when playing a DTS-HDMA 5.1 ES soundtrack?


----------



## rovingtravler

AVfile,


the Anthem does have the THX separation setting. you can set it from 1 to 4 feet and the over 4 if I remember curently.


Anyone else want to chime in?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20770140
> 
> 
> AVfile,
> 
> 
> the Anthem does have the THX separation setting. you can set it from 1 to 4 feet and the over 4 if I remember curently.
> 
> 
> Anyone else want to chime in?



Ah, right, I quickly checked the SPEAKER CONFIGURATION menu and forgot about the LISTENER POSITION menu.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Actually you might not want to get an Oppo for PCM output. I hear they use a budget "DTS Essentials" decoder which means it won't output the matrixed rear channel from DTS-ES 5.1 soundtracks. Ideally you would want the 5.1 + matrixed channel decoded as PCM 6.1 but it will actually show up as PCM 5.1 and then you have to use your brain and ensure the Anthem extracts the matrixed channel using NEO:6 (see Operating Manual section 4.8.5 on p.57).
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if it affects all models of Oppo but my Sony 770 doesn't do it either. It is the main reason I still use bitstream output and let the Anthem do all the work (and grudgingly apply the trims to make it correct, as you said in the latter part of your post).



First, in my testing there is no problem with decoding of regular DTS in the D2v. The problem in the D2v is with DTS-HD MA.


Second, there is no problem letting the OPPO decode DTS ES content and leaving PLIIx set as the Mode Preset for raising 5.1 input to 7.1 speakers.


So you can go either way for those tracks.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> There are also the REAR / SIDE speaker types (DIPOLE, DIRECT). I wonder if they contribute to some kind of blending function, but it would make no sense that it would only affect DTS.
> 
> 
> Side note: My last THX Ultra2 certified processor (Lexicon) has a REAR speaker separation setting (TOGETHER, CLOSE, FAR) and I hadn't realized it was missing from the Anthem.



Dipole/Direct only alters how the distance settings are applied for those speakers. Dipole speakers ate treated as if they were at the farthest distance set for any of the Direct speakers (since they work by bouncing the sound off the walls).


The Rear speaker setting is in Listener Position.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20767761
> 
> 
> Interesting, I wasn't aware these issues affected products other than the D2v.
> 
> 
> Do you know if the MRX issue that FilmMixer posted also affects the D2v?
> 
> If so this is the first I've heard of it, can someone elaborate on it?
> 
> 
> Cheers



No I don't believe the D2v exhibits this behavior.


DTS HD is weird. The decode is SUPPOSED to be different if the decoder knows the target is 5.1 speakers instead of 7.1 speakers. That difference is not always a good thing. If it isn't obvious yet, I'm no fan of the ridiculous complexity DTS has loaded onto that format. And don't even get me started on "alternate speaker presentation".


Decoding in a player like the Oppo is done to 7.1 (since the D2v accepts 7.1 HDMI input). The D2v then down-mixes the 7.1 LPCM input to 5.1 if you only have 5.1 speakers. Simple, and sounds great.

--Bob


----------



## RobertR

Changing the decoding to LPCM resulted in a _considerable_ level difference, with better balance with the surrounds. Definitely better.


----------



## AVfile

REFERENCES

AVM-50v Operator's Manual:

Section 3.7 (p.36)
Section 4.8.5 (p.57)

QUESTIONS

Should the native DTS-ES processing mode be applicable to DTS-HD(MA) 5.1 ES as it is with regular core DTS 5.1 ES?
Is the Anthem ignoring DTS-ES flags in the HD(MA) bitstream?
What do other products allow?

OBSERVATIONS

REF(1) does not distinguish between DTS-HD(MA) and core DTS.
Item g. "DTS-ES" in menu 7 (MODE PRESETS) does not get applied to DTS-HDMA 5.1 ES (Matrix) sources, regardless of setting. The setting in item f. "DTS" seems to take priority and gets applied to all forms of DTS-HDMA 5.1 including ES (Matrix) sources.
REF(2) lists HDMA, HDHR and core DTS but does not distinguish between the extensions to the format when it comes to DTS-ES processing.
REF(2) states that Neo:6 is used automatically to extract the matrixed channel from DTS-ES Matrix sources, and can be manually engaged for all other sources. This suggests Neo:6 is the minimum processing for DTS-ES and, assuming no other processing is applied on top of it, could be displayed as such but it is not.
It is not possible to press MODE and manually engage native DTS-ES processing mode with HDMA, as suggested in REF(2). A non-native 7.1 channel mode must be used.

SUMMARY

In order to extract the matrixed channel from DTS-HD(MA) 5.1 ES Matrix sources, we are forced to manually select a "heavier" processing mode when watching the movie such as Neo:6, Dolby PLIIx or THX Ultra2 Cinema. Alternately the mode default can be set globally via REF(1) menu item (f) which will unfortunately get applied to most other forms of DTS. Either way it is not possible to get plain DTS-ES processing and thus hear the native 6.1 channels of the original mix.


There is a separate menu item (g) for DTS-ES which does not work for DTS-HD(MA).


Failure to engage or default to one of the "heavier" processing modes will result in DTS-HD(MA) 5.1 ES Matrix soundtracks being output as 5.1 channels with the extra rear channel stripped. The rear speaker(s) will remain silent.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20770467
> 
> 
> First, in my testing there is no problem with decoding of regular DTS in the D2v. The problem in the D2v is with DTS-HD MA.



Sorry I meant DTS-HDMA 5.1 ES. From what I've seen these tracks will remain 5.1 channels unless Neo:6 is engaged in the player, and then they will become 7.1 channels (not sure if the rear is in mono).



> Quote:
> Second, there is no problem letting the OPPO decode DTS ES content and leaving PLIIx set as the Mode Preset for raising 5.1 input to 7.1 speakers.



When you say "no problem" do we know for a fact that PLIIx uses the matrixed information in a 5.1 ES track (HD or not) to get the Extra Surround channel before doing any more processing? What if I want to hear the original 6.1 mix without the extra processing of PLIIx?


I was suggesting bitstreaming should have the advantage here assuming the ES flags are recognized on the receiving end, but then I remembered having trouble with the Anthem in this regard (which led to my last post). It turns out you have to manually engage (or set as default) Neo:6 in the Anthem too! I realize most people prefer PLIIx or some of the THX modes and just default to one for everything, but I don't like the principle of this.


The sad thing is what was automatic with regular DTS-ES flags, is now a manual process with HDMA where the operator has to be on the ball. After all that I don't even know if the result is true to the source.


----------



## BladeRnR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20770094
> 
> 
> Nice flagship player. I'm curious; does it have a "DTS Essentials" decoder or do you get PCM 6.1 when playing a DTS-HDMA 5.1 ES soundtrack?



Hi AV. I have no idea what DTS Decoder the UD9004 runs (Hopefully one that works!







) but will do some testing and report back for you.


I do know switching to PCM recently to negate the Anthem level bug has certainly improved the Rear Channel and Main Channel presentation (i.e My subjective impression is the soundstage is less distracting than it was when the bug was present).


Blade


----------



## WiWavelength




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20770602
> 
> 
> If it isn't obvious yet, I'm no fan of the ridiculous complexity DTS has loaded onto that format.



Anything Dolby can do, DTS can do fettered.











AJ


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I'm curious; does it have a "DTS Essentials" decoder or do you get PCM 6.1 when playing a DTS-HDMA 5.1 ES soundtrack?



Are you referring to the Anthem's display (showing PCM 6.1 during playback) when playing back a BD with DTS HD-MA 5.1 ES track? How does one know if a BD has been encoded with the ES channel if it's 5.1? Isn't ES referred to 6.1 and 7.1 only. Sorry if I have misread anything.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20770080
> 
> 
> Actually you might not want to get an Oppo for PCM output. I hear they use a budget "DTS Essentials" decoder which means it won't output the *matrixed rear channel* from DTS-HDMA 5.1 ES soundtracks. *Ideally* you would want the 5.1 + matrixed channel decoded as PCM 6.1 but it will actually show up as PCM 5.1



I think 5.1 PCM is actually the ideal. If the player had a Neo:6 decoder inside to convert the 5.1 ES to 6.1 PCM, then it would not be easy/possible to instead play it with PLIIx in the AV processor. Mono rears sound so, well, mono.











> Quote:
> and then you have to use your brain and ensure the Anthem extracts the matrixed channel using NEO:6 or some other mode (see Operating Manual section 4.8.5 on p.57).



Yes, you'd have to, but then again, why not just leave PLIIx on all the time? Otherwise, the 5.1 sound is a) less dimensional and b), has the surrounds in less than ideal locations (90 instead of 110 deg). If you have a 7.1 system, why not use it fully?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20770927
> 
> 
> [*]Should the native DTS-ES processing mode be applicable to DTS-HD(MA) 5.1 ES as it is with regular core DTS 5.1 ES? [*]Is the Anthem ignoring DTS-ES flags in the HD(MA) bitstream?[*]What do other products allow?



As a point of reference, Dolby decoders can only follow the EX flag if a) the AVR offers the consumer an option to automatically apply EX when the flag exists, and b) the user chose that option. It could never force EX operation. Nowadays that option has been dropped for lack of interest on two fronts. If someone wanted the EX content processed in a 7.1 system, they usually wanted PLIIx instead of EX, as it works better. And 2, they usually just leave it on since it does not improve the result to play 5.1 content in 5 of 7 speakers of a 7.1 system.



> Quote:
> [*]REF(2) states that Neo:6 is used automatically to extract the matrixed channel from DTS-ES Matrix sources, and can be manually engaged for all other sources. This suggests Neo:6 is the minimum processing for DTS-ES and, assuming no other processing is applied on top of it, could be displayed as such but it is not.



Exactly.



> Quote:
> In order to extract the matrixed channel from DTS-HD(MA) 5.1 ES Matrix sources, we are forced to manually select a "heavier" processing mode when watching the movie such as Neo:6, Dolby PLIIx or THX Ultra2 Cinema. Alternately the mode default can be set globally via REF(1) menu item (f) which will unfortunately get applied to most other forms of DTS. Either way it is not possible to get *plain DTS-ES processing* and thus hear the native 6.1 channels of the original mix.



There is no difference between plain DTS-ES matrix 6.1 decoding and DTS+Neo:6 Cinema. They have to use Neo to extract the matrixed signal. In earlier incarnations of DTS-ES, it was bundled so they did not expose Neo as a participant. But that's what's behind the curtain.


Seems most of the problem is inconsistent nomenclature over the years.


Oh, and ES Discrete is totally different. We're not talking about that.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/20771549
> 
> 
> When you say "no problem" do we know for a fact that PLIIx uses the matrixed information in a 5.1 ES track (HD or not) to get the Extra Surround channel before doing any more processing?



It does. It is a one-step process, however. Two surrounds in, four surrounds out.



> Quote:
> What if I want to hear the original 6.1 mix without the extra processing of PLIIx?



PLIIx does not do extra processing, it just creates 4 outputs instead of 3. Which is the better way to feed 4 surround speakers?



> Quote:
> I was suggesting bitstreaming should have the advantage here assuming the ES flags are recognized on the receiving end, but then I remembered having trouble with the Anthem in this regard (which led to my last post). It turns out you have to manually engage (or set as default) Neo:6 in the Anthem too! I realize most people prefer PLIIx or some of the THX modes and just default to one for everything, but I don't like the principle of this.



I can understand about THX and ASA, but what about PLIIx bothers you on principle, considering that Neo:6 does not? They are both matrix decoders. If a sound effect is intended to come from directly behind (the EX" channel), both decoder sound exactly the same.


BTW, AVFile, I am not picking on you today. I just like this topic.


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guys. I've just had an issue which I thought had gone away for good but it's back and after 3hrs of trying everything I know it's not fixed. I will try and keep this short. Played a BD no problem last night and system has been working flawlessly for over 6 months. When I owned the Oppo BD-83 I encountered a buzzing from the front right speaker. After trying the usual things it ended up being an HDMI issue where if I took the HDMI cable from the Oppo and touched the back of the Anthem I heard a little spark sound and the buzzing went away never to return. I have since upgraded to the Oppo BDP-95 and it's been great without this issue....until tonight. I powered up my gear then turned on my Krell power amp and a loud buzzing was coming from the front speaker. First thing I tried was the HDMI from the Oppo but didn't go away. Suffice to say I have tried everything I could think of but it's still there. If I unplug the HDMI cables from the projector and Oppo buzzing goes away. Both cause buzzing if I touch the end from the Anthem to say the back of an Oppo input like an RCA (metal ring).
> 
> 
> As nothing else has changed in my system I'm thinking there's an issue with the Anthem D2v and it's HDMI board which for some reason isn't earthing. I'm running XLR's for all 5 speakers and with HDMI's connected and I remove the right channel XLR and touch the metal part of the connector and then with my other hand touch the Oppo or Anthem the buzzing stops. This is driving me crazy and wasted 3hours trying to get rid of the buzzing like turning off the main power to the house etc but it's still happening.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue and or have any suggestions as to fixing this problem? When I had this problem the first time I believe Bob said it was a grounding issue and he was right as the HDMI cable from the Oppo was the cause and after touching it's end to the back of the D2v it went away, but this time it's not fixing the issue. I have tried a different XLR cable but didn't fix it.
> 
> 
> Please help



Definitely seems like a groud loop issue. It seems that your audio setup has stay the same. Has anything else electrical changed? New power bar, conditioner installed? Any new dimmers or fluorescent or compact fluorescent bulbs installed?


----------



## SimonNo10

Quote:

Do you have a cable line or satellite line connected to any component ?
No. I have a very simple setup. Only 2 components connected into D2v, Epson TW-3200 projector and Oppo BDP-95 nothing else like Foxtel etc. I don't watch tv through my system.

Quote:

Run a temporary separate ground wire from each piece of equipment to see if the hum disappears.

I thought I read somewhere where Krell amps a plagued with AC hum.

Lift the ground from the Krell amp.
Sorry I'm not sure I understand how to do this. I live in Australia and all my equipment have 3 prongs into wall via a power board. Krell users a 15amp power point (plugged directly into wall no power board) where the others use a 10amp standard. I've changed nothing in the last 6 months to my HT (other than a new powerboard) or my house that would cause such an issue. The last time this happened I wasn't using XLR's just RCA's from Anthem to Krell and touching the HDMI cable from Oppo eliminated the buzzing but not this time.

Quote:

Lift the ground from the Krell amp
So how do I do this? I don't have a spare 15amp power cord and no idea how to alter the existing one.

Quote:

Has anything else electrical changed? New power bar, conditioner installed? Any new dimmers or fluorescent or compact fluorescent bulbs installed?
Yes to the powerboard. I was using a Thor PS-10 power center but changed to this about 4 months ago:

http://www.thoroughbredaudio.com/SPI240AU6/index.html 


Never been an issue. The first time I encountered this buzzing I had the Thor PS-10 installed and had the Oppo BDP-83 which had a 2 prong connection, BDP-95 has a 3 prong plug.


Thanks for the questions and suggestions. Was up until 2am this morning trying to fix it and tried it this morning and it's still there. I turned off the Krell over night.


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* 
No. I have a very simple setup. Only 2 components connected into D2v, Epson TW-3200 projector and Oppo BDP-95 nothing else like Foxtel etc. I don't watch tv through my system.




Sorry I'm not sure I understand how to do this. I live in Australia and all my equipment have 3 prongs into wall via a power board. Krell users a 15amp power point (plugged directly into wall no power board) where the others use a 10amp standard. I've changed nothing in the last 6 months to my HT (other than a new powerboard) or my house that would cause such an issue. The last time this happened I wasn't using XLR's just RCA's from Anthem to Krell and touching the HDMI cable from Oppo eliminated the buzzing but not this time.


So how do I do this? I don't have a spare 15amp power cord and no idea how to alter the existing one.


Yes to the powerboard. I was using a Thor PS-10 power center but changed to this about 4 months ago:

http://www.thoroughbredaudio.com/SPI240AU6/index.html 


Never been an issue. The first time I encountered this buzzing I had the Thor PS-10 installed and had the Oppo BDP-83 which had a 2 prong connection, BDP-95 has a 3 prong plug.


Thanks for the questions and suggestions. Was up until 2am this morning trying to fix it and tried it this morning and it's still there. I turned off the Krell over night.


Try a using a wire with alligator clips and connecting it temporarily from each component to ground or from one component to another as a test.


Or try a cheater plug on each component and see if this temporarily fixes the hum.


Call Krell they have information on amplifier hum because of ground loops.


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok guys it's fixed. I decided to disconnected everything from the D2v and tried each component in different wallpower points. With everything seperated I connected all of the XLR's from Krell to D2v and turned Anthem and Krell on...no buzzing. I didn't know this and call me stupid but I didn't realize that the D2v is a 2 prong unit (2 pins at the back) and I was using an after market power cord (All components are connected with the same brand powercord) that has 3. So what I did was I used the 2 prong power lead form my Oppo BD-83 player and connected that into the D2v and powered it up with XLR's and HDMI's from the Oppo BDP-95 and Projector and turned the system on (just Anthem and Oppo and Krell) and no buzzing. But a strange thing happened. The power to the projector had been cut and the main switch on my outside power board was in the off position. I flipped it to on position and turned on the system and buzzing not present, but I'm yet to turn projector on with the rest of the system. Thought I would just put a SACD on and run it for 30mins or so to test things out.


So at some point of connecting everything back something must have grounded and spiked the HDMI for the projector which cut power to it for safety but removed the buzzing. I can't put my finger on exactly what it was but the only thing different is I'm using a 2 prong power cord for the D2v rather than my 3 prong from power board into Anthem which would be using only 2 and not the ground.


I've decided I'm going to spend the money and get my whole house rewired with new meter box etc as I had a sparky over about 4 months (installed a CM-90 Thor 15amp power surge protector for the Krell only) ago and it was recommended. My place is about 45-50 years old. I hope this issue doesn't come back and thanks so much for all the suggestions.


----------



## MACCA350

Blame the gremlins










cheers


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Blame the gremlins



Mate seriously it wouldn't surprise me. Hate wasting the time I have to catch up on movies etc on silly grounding issues. Anyway hopefully it doesn't come back.


So Macca out of interest do you use a 2 prong power cable with your D2v?


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20876102
> 
> 
> Mate seriously it wouldn't surprise me. Hate wasting the time I have to catch up on movies etc on silly grounding issues. Anyway hopefully it doesn't come back.
> 
> 
> So Macca out of interest do you use a 2 prong power cable with your D2v?



Wouldn't have a clue mate, I just used what it was supplied with. Given there are only 2 prongs on the back of the D2v it won't matter wether you use a 2 or 3 prong cable.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Given there are only 2 prongs on the back of the D2v it won't matter wether you use a 2 or 3 prong cable.



As I was using a 3 prong, would plugging the lead into a powerboard that obviously caters for the 3rd prong would that cause my issue even though there's only 2 being feed into the Anthem? I just want to get to the bottom of this issue as I don't want it to happen again.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20876326
> 
> 
> As I was using a 3 prong, would plugging the lead into a powerboard that obviously caters for the 3rd prong would that cause my issue even though there's only 2 being feed into the Anthem? I just want to get to the bottom of this issue as I don't want it to happen again.



Shouldn't make a difference either way as the ground is disconnected in either senario. Ground loops can be difficult to pin down. Your case is even more intriguing given it only affects one channel, normally it causes a 50/60Hz hum in the whole system.


I had ground hum at one stage. Everything was fine until I introduced the QSC DSP4 into the sub loop. I firstly grounded the DSP4 with an extra wire to the back of the Denon(prior to having the D2v) which fixed the hum. Turns out the DSP4 is grounded through the signal inputs and the XLR to RCA cables that were supplied with the SubM have the ground wire cut. After I found this out I simply replaced the XLR to RCA adapters with those that came with my Sparks(ground not cut). Since I'm now using XLR to XLR with the D2v this is a non issue.


Yours seems to be a bit more complex though.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Yours seems to be a bit more complex though



My system couldn't really be more simple. It's not like I'm plugging many units into the D2v. Just the Oppo and the projector but when the buzzing started both ends of the HDMI's after unplugging for the Anthem were live as in the buzzing got worst if I touch either of them to the back panel of the Anthem.


The thing is I've got enough measures implememented I feel to eliminate any ground problems but it still occuring. Granted it's not every week as the last time it did it was over 3-4 moths ago (approx). I had 2 dedicated circuits (2 sets of power inputs so 4 outlets) put in for the 2 submersives and the Oppo/D2v with a surge module in the main power board. Plus a seperate Thor CM-90 15amp surge protector (for the Krell amp) installed in the actual wall outlet (behind it in the wall) link below:

http://www.rkcable.com.au/ThorTechCM90.htm 


And this in the main powerboard outside:

http://www.rkcable.com.au/Clipsal970MF20.htm 


So I'm certain it's something to do with the actual D2v either being too sensitive to slight spikes in HDMI or one of my power outlets could have a bad wire that could be touching something else. I had something similar occur when a sparky installed a phone input for internet but placed it right above a power point, which I was told later by a telephone cable installer was a big no no. And I was getting a bad feedback sound from my pc speakers which ended up being a cable being too close from the power point and was touching the metal frame thing that sits inside that allows you to screw the bracket on the front.


So what I'm going to do is pay the money and get my entire place rewired as I mentioned and that way I know that every power point will be addressed plus have the latest power board (outside) with multiple safety switches and get the system isolated from the rest of the house (as discussed with a different sparky in my area), been in business for over 20 years in my suburb.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20878607
> 
> 
> My system couldn't really be more simple. It's not like I'm plugging many units into the D2v. Just the Oppo and the projector but when the buzzing started both ends of the HDMI's after unplugging for the Anthem were live as in the buzzing got worst if I touch either of them to the back panel of the Anthem.
> 
> 
> The thing is I've got enough measures implememented I feel to eliminate any ground problems but it still occuring. Granted it's not every week as the last time it did it was over 3-4 moths ago (approx). I had 2 dedicated circuits (2 sets of power inputs so 4 outlets) put in for the 2 submersives and the Oppo/D2v with a surge module in the main power board. Plus a seperate Thor CM-90 15amp surge protector (for the Krell amp) installed in the actual wall outlet (behind it in the wall) link below:
> 
> http://www.rkcable.com.au/ThorTechCM90.htm
> 
> 
> And this in the main powerboard outside:
> 
> http://www.rkcable.com.au/Clipsal970MF20.htm
> 
> 
> So I'm certain it's something to do with the actual D2v either being too sensitive to slight spikes in HDMI or one of my power outlets could have a bad wire that could be touching something else. I had something similar occur when a sparky installed a phone input for internet but placed it right above a power point, which I was told later by a telephone cable installer was a big no no. And I was getting a bad feedback sound from my pc speakers which ended up being a cable being too close from the power point and was touching the metal frame thing that sits inside that allows you to screw the bracket on the front.
> 
> 
> So what I'm going to do is pay the money and get my entire place rewired as I mentioned and that way I know that every power point will be addressed plus have the latest power board (outside) with multiple safety switches and get the system isolated from the rest of the house (as discussed with a different sparky in my area), been in business for over 20 years in my suburb.



Be careful with the surge protectors and other other power conditioner units. Most amplifier manufacturers do not recommend them. Several state in their manuals that the results are not good when using them. You may be restricting the amplifiers output.

Anthem does not recommend any surge or power conditioners and recommends not using them.

Anthem provides all the necessary power controls internally.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Be careful with the surge protectors and other other power conditioner units. Most amplifier manufacturers do not recommend them



I spoke to a person at Thor before purchasing the CM-90 module for the Krell and asked that very question if the module would restrict it's power output and the answer was no.



> Quote:
> Anthem does not recommend any surge or power conditioners and recommends not using them



I wasn't aware that Anthem recommended that. Interesting. Thanks for the info.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20878607
> 
> 
> My system couldn't really be more simple. It's not like I'm plugging many units into the D2v.



Understood, I was referring to diagnosing and fixing the ground hum











> Quote:
> Just the Oppo and the projector but when the buzzing started both ends of the HDMI's after unplugging for the Anthem were live as in the buzzing got worst if I touch either of them to the back panel of the Anthem.



HDMI cables are live, as in they carry 5v power through the cable. This is why it's recommended to only connect/disconnect HDMI cables when all components are shut off(not just in standby but shut off at the GPO).


I'd open up the XLR connector for the channel that hums and check the connections, or use a multimeter and check continuity. Being just one channel humming it may be something in that one channel that's causing it. Could also be a poor XLR connector either on the cable or in the D2v or amp. Given the hum isn't consistent it may be a poor connection not just a disconnect somewhere in that channel, that's where I'd be looking.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Understood, I was referring to diagnosing and fixing the ground hum



Cool no worries.



> Quote:
> I'd open up the XLR connector for the channel that hums and check the connections, or use a multimeter and check continuity



I tried a different XLR that I had spare and got the same result.




> Quote:
> Could also be a poor XLR connector either on the cable or in the D2v or amp




That's possible I guess and the interesting thing is when it happened last time I think I was using RCA's instead of XLR's and it was the right front channel only as well. So might be the Krell. When I had the amp on and removed the XLR connector from the Anthem, when I touched pin 2 I think from memory it produced a loud buzz like bad feedback through the speaker. When I had the XLR in one hand and I touched the Anthem or Oppo chassis the buzzing went away.


Do you have your D2v plugged into a power surge board at all?


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20879501
> 
> 
> Do you have your D2v plugged into a power surge board at all?



Nothing fancy, just your basic surge protected power board.


Cheers


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20878954
> 
> 
> Be careful with the surge protectors and other other power conditioner units. Most amplifier manufacturers do not recommend them. Several state in their manuals that the results are not good when using them. You may be restricting the amplifiers output.
> 
> Anthem does not recommend any surge or power conditioners and recommends not using them.
> 
> Anthem provides all the necessary power controls internally.




Would you give me the source (page or link) where Anthem specifically says not to use surge or power conditioners? Thanks.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Would you give me the source (page or link) where Anthem specifically says not to use surge or power conditioners? Thanks.



They have stated this many times.

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20879501
> 
> 
> That's possible I guess and the interesting thing is when it happened last time I think I was using RCA's instead of XLR's and it was the right front channel only as well. So might be the Krell.



Could be normal if you're swapping cables like that. Does the amp have a Single-ended (RCA) / Balanced (XLR) selection switch? Some amps are automatic, some require you flip a switch on the back, and some require you terminate the unused connectors.



> Quote:
> When I had the amp on and removed the XLR connector from the Anthem, when I touched pin 2 I think from memory it produced a loud buzz like bad feedback through the speaker. When I had the XLR in one hand and I touched the Anthem or Oppo chassis the buzzing went away.



Do you get any buzzing noise when you're NOT touching pins?! If so it sounds like a flaky connection in the ground pin or the drain wire, or a cable is connected backwards. XLRs are directional as usually one end is connected to the drain (shield). By touching the chassis you were completing the circuit. Make sure all your cables terminate with the drain end at the same component, usually the preamp as it is the central hub (and hopefully that component is a grounded 3-pronger).



> Quote:
> Do you have your D2v plugged into a power surge board at all?



Yes, Panamax Pro series, no issues.


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20884164
> 
> 
> They have stated this many times.
> 
> John



Thanks John. This has been stated on the forum here? I had an Anthem regional representative in my home when the D2V was installed and he complimented me on my system, including the two Panamax surge protector/line conditioners. I also checked with Parasound when I linked the A51 power amp to the Panamax equipment and they saw no issues.


I would like to see where Anthem has this written.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks John. This has been stated on the forum here? I had an Anthem regional representative in my home when the D2V was installed and he complimented me on my system, including the two Panamax surge protector/line conditioners. I also checked with Parasound when I linked the A51 power amp to the Panamax equipment and they saw no issues.
> 
> 
> I would like to see where Anthem has this written.



Nick has mentioned that while they don't emphatically state not to use one, certain versions have been known to cause problems so they don't recommend them. I use a Panamax with my D2v, A5 and A2 amps and all associated sources and have never had an issue. But then do I really need the Panamax, who knows. If you've had no issues then you're ok and so is your Panamax.

John


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20885857
> 
> 
> Nick has mentioned that while they don't emphatically state not to use one, certain versions have been known to cause problems so they don't recommend them. I use a Panamax with my D2v, A5 and A2 amps and all associated sources and have never had an issue. But then do I really need the Panamax, who knows. If you've had no issues then you're ok and so is your Panamax.
> 
> John



Any idea what brands are known to be problematic?


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20885857
> 
> 
> Nick has mentioned that while they don't emphatically state not to use one, certain versions have been known to cause problems so they don't recommend them. I use a Panamax with my D2v, A5 and A2 amps and all associated sources and have never had an issue. But then do I really need the Panamax, who knows. If you've had no issues then you're ok and so is your Panamax.
> 
> John



Thanks John. You are always good about answering. I have cranked my volume up with no problems. I think the problems come from people using cheaper power strips and surge protectors that can't handle what a good amp throws at them. Anthem can't list specific products to avoid or they would get into legal issues, so it is easier to just say "Don't use surge protectors/line conditioners."


I'm not interested in stirring up the old "do you even need these products" debate. To me that is a personal decision.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks John. You are always good about answering. I have cranked my volume up with no problems. I think the problems come from people using cheaper power strips and surge protectors that can't handle what a good amp throws at them. Anthem can't list specific products to avoid or they would get into legal issues, so it is easier to just say "Don't use surge protectors/line conditioners."
> 
> 
> I'm not interested in stirring up the old "do you even need these products" debate. To me that is a personal decision.



That's how I look at it









John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea what brands are known to be problematic?



I don't, but it seems people use Panamax without issue.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The problem seems to be the quality of the power conditioner's power output when the attached devices suddenly raise their demand. Some power conditioners apparently don't track well as the demand suddenly changes, or simply can't meet the demand. Others apparently put out more than the usual amount of garbage when the wall power drops.


I've no idea how you find out whether any given power conditioner can meet demand changes (and fast enough) to be worth using.


It also wouldn't surprise me if there are potential grounding issues if using more than one conditioner on a collection of devices. I.e., possible ground loop problems. I'm speculating here.


Note that power conditioning and "surge protection" are two different things.


-----------------------------


Personally, I use an APC brand, battery backup (of the type sold to computer users) which also serves as surge protection. This is not a "power conditioner" but does allow the D2v to ride through brief power glitches. I.e., it doesn't have to be rebooted. Since other hardware is going down anyway during such glitches, there's really no issue of whether audio/video quality is affected by what the APC puts out during a power glitch. It's sole purpose is to keep the D2v from shutting down. For a longer power outage, I shut down the D2v manually after the APC takes over.


As best I can tell, there's no longer any statement regarding power conditioners in the D2v manual.

--Bob


----------



## Axatax

What is the deal with the "P1DS?" (Query Input Format) command (RS-232)?


I have a D1-HD (upgrade), and every other RS-232 command works fine except for this one (returns "Invalid Command").


Right now, I have to use the decoder status variable in lieu of Input Format for anything informative.


Is this command only for D2(x)? The RS-232 docs. make no mention of this?


----------



## guzz46

I'm thinking about getting an Anthem AVM50v and a MCA50, what would give the best sound for 2 channel CD playback? connecting an Oppo BDP-95 via the analog outs or connecting via HDMI to the AVM50v? essentially do you think the DAC's in the Oppo are better than the DAC's and ARC in the AVM50v.

Just trying to figure out if its worth spending the extra money on the BDP-95 over the BPD-93.


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *guzz46* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about getting an Anthem AVM50v and a MCA50, what would give the best sound for 2 channel CD playback? connecting an Oppo BDP-95 via the analog outs or connecting via HDMI to the AVM50v? essentially do you think the DAC's in the Oppo are better than the DAC's and ARC in the AVM50v.
> 
> Just trying to figure out if its worth spending the extra money on the BDP-95 over the BPD-93.
> 
> 
> Thanks



95 using hdmi and ARC. No contest, ARC is the way to go. Shame to have an AVM50v and not use ARC









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If the plan is to use HDMI for audio (which is what I do), there's no point in getting the OPPO 95. Get the 93.


If you get the 95 because you want the option of using its better Analog outputs, I'd still recommend using Analog-DSP and ARC in the Anthem. The advantages of ARC outweigh any differences in the DACs. Do all bass management, volume trims, and distance alignment in the Anthem.


Keep in mind that the Anthem is limited to 5.1 for Analog input.

--Bob


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20873794
> 
> 
> Number of things you can try.
> 
> 
> Do you have a cable line or satellite line connected to any component ?
> 
> If yes try disconnecting and see if the buzz disappears. if it does there is a ground loop occurring and you will probably need to ensure the coax feed is grounded properly.
> 
> 
> Try lifting the ground from each piece of equipment by using a 3 wire plug adapter that does not have ground pin.
> 
> 
> Run a temporary separate ground wire from each piece of equipment to see if the hum disappears.
> 
> I thought I read somewhere where Krell amps a plagued with AC hum.
> 
> Lift the ground from the Krell amp.



Some additional ideas -


Sometimes even properly grounded cable lines will induce hum. In this case an isolation transformer may be needed.


Sometimes the amp inputs may have a bad connector, cold solder or circuit board trace. This can be found by attaching an input cable that is not attached to another input device. If this causes a hum then it will be necessary to get the amp fixed. This happened to me a while ago on a subwoofer amp.


----------



## guzz46




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20893280
> 
> 
> If the plan is to use HDMI for audio (which is what I do), there's no point in getting the OPPO 95. Get the 93.
> 
> 
> If you get the 95 because you want the option of using its better Analog outputs, I'd still recommend using Analog-DSP and ARC in the Anthem. The advantages of ARC outweigh any differences in the DACs. Do all bass management, volume trims, and distance alignment in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the Anthem is limited to 5.1 for Analog input.
> 
> --Bob



I guess my next question will be do you think there will be any benefit in using the BDP-95's Analog outputs with the AVM50v's Analog-DSP over just using HDMI with Analog-DSP?


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *guzz46* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I guess my next question will be do you think there will be any benefit in using the BDP-95's Analog outputs with the AVM50v's Analog-DSP over just using HDMI with Analog-DSP?
> 
> 
> Thanks



ARC trumps DACs. This has been confirmed over and over again. The diff b/t analog and digital is marginal in the Anthem's if even that. So ARC's difference will be the reason it will sound so good









John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Does the amp have a Single-ended (RCA) / Balanced (XLR) selection switch?



No switch it's automatic.



> Quote:
> Do you get any buzzing noise when you're NOT touching pins?



Yes. Wasn't as loud but it was still there in the front right channel only.



> Quote:
> Make sure all your cables terminate with the drain end at the same component



Sorry but what do you mean by drain end? All 5 XLR cables were purchased new and are identical. As mentioend never had an issue until when it happened and I have had them is place for over 4 months without issue.


This is the Krell amp I'm using:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...rd-5-2002.html


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *guzz46* /forum/post/20894694
> 
> 
> I guess my next question will be do you think there will be any benefit in using the BDP-95's Analog outputs with the AVM50v's Analog-DSP over just using HDMI with Analog-DSP?
> 
> 
> Thanks



I don't have a 95, I have a 93. In the testing I've done with the 93, I can detect no difference using HDMI into ARC vs. using Analog into ARC. This was NOT the case with the prior, 83 player, where I preferred HDMI.


The analog output of the 93 is no slouch. Although the analog output of the 95 is measurably better, you will need not only a good pre-amp (the Anthem) but also good amps and good speakers to hear the improvement.


Some folks tout the fact that the Oppo players (both the 93 and the 95) have the special DACs that allow SACD discs to be played via DSD-direct-to-analog conversion (no intermediate conversion to LPCM). This is true, but when you do so you forego all processing in the player. Which means things like bass management, volume trims, and speaker time (distance) alignment have to be done externally. So again, you are using Analog-DSP in the Anthem.


To properly evaluate the Analog output of the Oppo players in YOUR listening room you will need to use Analog-Direct in the Anthem -- thus foregoing ARC and other processing in the Anthem. You will need to do bass management, etc. in the Oppo.


If you buy from Oppo, they have a 30 day return policy, so you can of course get a 95 and try it. If you find you can't hear a difference, or prefer to use ARC with Analog input anyway (which is even more likely), then you probably ought to return it and get the 93 instead.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20895143
> 
> 
> No switch it's automatic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. Wasn't as loud but it was still there in the front right channel only.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry but what do you mean by drain end? All 5 XLR cables were purchased new and are identical. As mentioend never had an issue until when it happened and I have had them is place for over 4 months without issue.
> 
> 
> This is the Krell amp I'm using:
> 
> http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...rd-5-2002.html



I found this in the Krell User manual which may have some effect since you are using a Thor PS-10 power center


"AC POWER GUIDELINES

Krell recommends operating the Theater Amplifier Standard from a dedicated 20-amp

AC power line. The Theater Amplifier Standard should be used only with the AC power

cord supplied. Please contact your Krell dealer, distributor, or Krell before using any

devices designed to alter or stabilize the AC power for the Theater Amplifier Standard. "


The Krell Theater Amplifier Standard can draw 20 amps under heavy load.

The Thor PS-10 may not be able to provide that amount of current as they do not state what the maximum output is.

Maybe another suggestion would be to unplug your amp from the conditioner and plug it directly into the wall as Krell recommends. The amp maybe able to then operate at full capacity and maybe the noise maybe remedied also.


I use Bryston amps and they state in the manual not to use any power conditioners. My experience testing different conditioners has always resulted in a constricted sound when compared with not using a conditioner.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry but what do you mean by drain end? All 5 XLR cables were purchased new and are identical. As mentioend never had an issue until when it happened and I have had them is place for over 4 months without issue.



Ok it is unlikely the cables fault but it would be good to check them anyway. We need to check they are all installed in the same direction. Do they have arrows or writing on the jackets you can use to judge direction? Also it is possible one has a bad connection or not wired correctly in the factory. If you have a multi meter or ohm meter this will be easy. If not you might want to buy an inexpensive one from a hardware store, or unscrew the XLR body and visually inspect. PM me for details.



> Quote:
> This is the Krell amp I'm using:
> 
> http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...rd-5-2002.html



That'll be grounded. Cable ends that have the drain wire connected should go to ground, and that should be the Krell instead of the Anthem. I just checked my Anthems and they are not (only 2 prong).


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> using a Thor PS-10 power center



I don't use a Thor PS-10 anymore for my HT and never had the Krell plugged into it as I have a dedicated 15amp power point for it (I asked Krell if a 15amp here in Australia is enough and they said yes) with a Thor CM-90 module protecting it.


I have never plugged the Krell other than mentioned above as I'm aware of power board restrictions.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> . We need to check they are all installed in the same direction. Do they have arrows or writing on the jackets you can use to judge direction?



XLR's are female on one end and male (pins) on the other and can only go one way. Krell accepts the male end and the Anthem accepts the female so I can't get it wrong. Not like RCA cables.


A multi meter is a good idea and may invest in one. Thanks for that


----------



## Axatax




> Quote:
> What is the deal with the "P1DS?" (Query Input Format) command (RS-232)?
> 
> 
> I have a D1-HD (upgrade), and every other RS-232 command works fine except for this one (returns "Invalid Command").
> 
> 
> Right now, I have to use the decoder status variable in lieu of Input Format for anything informative.
> 
> 
> Is this command only for D2(x)? The RS-232 docs. make no mention of this?




...Just FYI for anyone searching for this.


This command has apparently been removed in recent FW.


The decoder status command can provide much of the same information.


----------



## ninja12

I decided to download, install, and take a measurement with ARC v3.0.2. Since the only difference between 3.0.2 and 3.0.1 was just the addition of the Rear Channel, I didn't expect to see any difference in the measurements, and I really didn't. Anyway, here's what my measurements look like for ARC v3.0.2. Please have a look.


Also, all speaker trims are -2.5 to +2.5.


----------



## barhoram

Are the serial commands for the AVM 50 and D2 the same? RTI just released a two way serial driver for the AVM 50.....wondering if it will work for the D2 as well?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/20901269
> 
> 
> I decided to download, install, and take a measurement with ARC v3.0.2. Since the only difference between 3.0.2 and 3.0.1 was just the addition of the Rear Channel, I didn't expect to see any difference in the measurements, and I really didn't. Anyway, here's what my measurements look like for ARC v3.0.2. Please have a look.
> 
> 
> Also, all speaker trims are -2.5 to +2.5.



All looks very good and the sub is still in the Sub Hall of Fame







I'm not surprised that there isn't noticeable difference but this should already sound great! Now that doesn't stop most of us from trying to get a little more out of our gear does it









John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20901848
> 
> 
> All looks very good and the sub is still in the Sub Hall of Fame
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not surprised that there isn't noticeable difference but this should already sound great! Now that doesn't stop most of us from trying to get a little more out of our gear does it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Thanks jayray, and it's good to see that my sub is still worthy of the Sub Hall of Fame.







, and yes, it still sounds great!!! I have tweaked my system to the point that I have nothing else to do but to just kick back and enjoy it. It took me a while to get to this point; but, it was definitely worth all of the trials and errors. I will be a happy camper for years to come.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks jayray, and it's good to see that my sub is still worthy of the Sub Hall of Fame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , and yes, it still sounds great!!! I have tweaked my system to the point that I have nothing else to do but to just kick back and enjoy it. It took me a while to get to this point; but, it was definitely worth all of the trials and errors. I will be a happy camper for years to come.



Glad to hear









John


----------



## gblack

Can someone explain how levels work in ARC?


I recently relocated my theatre to a basement home theatre room. Tonight I re-ran ARC for the first time since the relocation. But before running ARC, I calibrated all the speakers to a level of 75db using a Radioshack meter. Most speakers were within +-1db post calibration.


Attached are my results after running ARC tonight. The equalization looks good. But the levels on the charts look low. I notice that after uploading the new eq settings and levels, the speaker levels in my D2 are much higher now. While front left 'base level' is still +1.5db where I calibrated it, all the channels are now boosted up to 81db as measured with the radioshack meter and have +5-6db applied to the levels in the D2 speaker level settings. I assume ARC did this.


Any thoughts on why the levels on these charts look low and why the speaker levels got boosted so much post-ARC? Should I be calibrating to a higher level than 75db when I first calibrate my speakers?


----------



## thestewman

Quote:

Originally Posted by *gblack* 
Can someone explain how levels work in ARC?


I recently relocated my theatre to a basement home theatre room. Tonight I re-ran ARC for the first time since the relocation. But before running ARC, I calibrated all the speakers to a level of 75db using a Radioshack meter. Most speakers were within +-1db post calibration.


Attached are my results after running ARC tonight. The equalization looks good. But the levels on the charts look low. I notice that after uploading the new eq settings and levels, the speaker levels in my D2 are much higher now. While front left 'base level' is still +1.5db where I calibrated it, all the channels are now boosted up to 81db as measured with the radioshack meter and have +5-6db applied to the levels in the D2 speaker level settings. I assume ARC did this.


Any thoughts on why the levels on these charts look low and why the speaker levels got boosted so much post-ARC? Should I be calibrating to a higher level than 75db when I first calibrate my speakers?
Did you follow these words of wisdom on setting the signal levels

from Bob Pariseau


"Prior to running the ARC measurements, there is another step to do to get the test tone volumes correct:


Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB. Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up). Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.


[ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]


Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position. There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.


ARC will use the Noise Level setting you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones, and the adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, can be level adjusted properly to match. If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.


Back out of the Setup menu. Run the ARC application.


----------



## gblack

Quote:

Originally Posted by *thestewman* 
Did you follow these words of wisdom on setting the signal levels

from Bob Pariseau


"Prior to running the ARC measurements, there is another step to do to get the test tone volumes correct:


Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB. Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up). Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.


[ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]


Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position. There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.


ARC will use the Noise Level setting you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones, and the adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, can be level adjusted properly to match. If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.


Back out of the Setup menu. Run the ARC application.
From reading your note, it sounds like calibrate first and then run ARC is the order of events. Which is what I did. Really what I'm interested in is why in my charts, is the target line approx 68db and not 75db. I've seen many other ARC charts on this thread and the target line is usually around 75-78db.


What I think is happening is that the ARC software does it's measurement. From that it calculates a target (for a flat response) and calculates what equalization is required to achieve that target. It then uploads that equalization. In my case the equalization resulted in the measured levels from the speakers getting lowered (you can see in the chart the measured line is much higher pre-flattening). So I assume that ARC is then applying a levels adjustment afterwards to get the speaker level output on each channel back up to 75db post equalization. Does that make sense and do you think that is what it is doing?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It appears to be simpler than that: Just a bug in the way the ARC application formats those charts.


As best we've been able to tell, folks who do the preliminary setup for 75dB actually do get a 75dB solution despite the scale value displayed on the charts. That is, real content, played at set levels for Main Volume using such an ARC solution produces output consistent with a 75dB solution.


What's puzzling is that this charting issue doesn't happen for everyone, and sometimes doesn't happen for the same user from run to run. And nobody has been able to figure out what makes the difference.


Anyway, if it really IS just a formatting error for the charts -- i.e., the curves are correct, but the displayed volume scale value is off -- then you can just ignore the numeric value and concentrate on whether the shape of the curves looks good.


--------------------------------------


One piece of evidence as to this being just a chart formatting error is that the Quick Measure charts seem to be displayed properly. The curve shown by Quick Measure is basically comparable to the red Measured curve on the main ARC charts. If Quick Measure is showing it at a different level than the main ARC charts are showing it, then one of the two charts must be wrong.


-------------------------------------


ARC is already biased towards producing a 75dB solution. For many folks, you'll just get that ANYWAY even if you don't do the preliminary setup. But if your speakers vary too much in their output, or are unusually strong or weak on the whole for a given level of signal, then ARC may have to shift the solution to stay within the limits of the trims it has to work with. The point of doing the preliminary setup is to get the test level at roughly 75dB to begin with (which means ARC can hear and Measure what it needs to) and to insure the volume setting on the subwoofer is not so out of whack with what the main speakers are producing that ARC has to shift things to get a match between them. That eliminates the two most likely reasons ARC might have trouble making the solution work at 75dB.


-------------------------------------


There is another Setup setting which has to do with the Maximum allowed value for Main Volume (to protect things in case the kids fiddle with the volume knob or whatever). That defaults to +10dB. If you lower that too much, then that will *ALSO* cap the maximum volume trims ARC can apply -- which means ARC may have to shift the solution downward.

--Bob


----------



## gblack

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*
It appears to be simpler than that: Just a bug in the way the ARC application formats those charts.


As best we've been able to tell, folks who do the preliminary setup for 75dB actually do get a 75dB solution despite the scale value displayed on the charts. That is, real content, played at set levels for Main Volume using such an ARC solution produces output consistent with a 75dB solution.


What's puzzling is that this charting issue doesn't happen for everyone, and sometimes doesn't happen for the same user from run to run. And nobody has been able to figure out what makes the difference.


Anyway, if it really IS just a formatting error for the charts -- i.e., the curves are correct, but the scale value is off -- then you can just ignore the numeric value and concentrate on whether the shape of the curves looks good.

--Bob
Thanks Bob. Any idea why post arc my speaker levels are boosted 5-6 db per channel and when I measure my speaker levels with a radioshack spl meter they now read 81db? I can't figure out why arc boosted the levels so much other than my theory that it had to as a result of what its equalization did to the total sound output per channel (ie did the equalization result in white noise sounding lower which requires a level boost?)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *gblack* 
Thanks Bob. Any idea why post arc my speaker levels are boosted 5-6 db per channel and when I measure my speaker levels with a radioshack spl meter they now read 81db? I can't figure out why arc boosted the levels so much other than my theory that it had to as a result of what its equalization did to the total sound output per channel (ie did the equalization result in white noise sounding lower which requires a level boost?)
No idea off hand. I edited my post above to add some stuff, so reread it to see if it suggests anything.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Quote:

Originally Posted by *gblack* 
From reading your note, it sounds like calibrate first and then run ARC is the order of events. Which is what I did. Really what I'm interested in is why in my charts, is the target line approx 68db and not 75db. I've seen many other ARC charts on this thread and the target line is usually around 75-78db.


What I think is happening is that the ARC software does it's measurement. From that it calculates a target (for a flat response) and calculates what equalization is required to achieve that target. It then uploads that equalization. In my case the equalization resulted in the measured levels from the speakers getting lowered (you can see in the chart the measured line is much higher pre-flattening). So I assume that ARC is then applying a levels adjustment afterwards to get the speaker level output on each channel back up to 75db post equalization. Does that make sense and do you think that is what it is doing?
I just want to make sure you understand Bob's instructions correctly that thestewman was kind enough to list in his post.


As I read your first post it sounded as if you went into the 'Speaker Level' section of setup and went down thru each speaker (LF/RF/C/LS/RS/SUB) and adjusted them to 75db. *Before* ARC this was the correct procedure.

When using ARC it is *not* correct.


At the risk of being a PITA, I want to make sure you understood the instructions correctly.

*Set all speaker levels to '0' and leave them there.* (You really only need to be sure that LF and sub are zeroed, but my OCD forces me to zero them all.) ARC will adjust and load the speaker levels as part of the upload.


Set the Anthem to Manual (still in the 'SpeakerLevel' section). Using your SPL meter set at C weight/slow set the *'Noise Level'* so that it reads 75db.


Scroll down thru all the speakers to 'Sub'. Adjust the sub level to 75db using the subs volume/gain adjustment. *Do not make any adjustments to any of the individual speakers in the Anthem setup menu. All speaker levels should be '0' including the sub.* *The only adjustments are to the 'Noise Level' and to the sub's own volume/gain.*


Then you're ready to run ARC.


As Bob said, if the ARC reading is not on the 75db line don't worry, its OK.

I made the mistake a while back of assuming that if the ARC line isn't at 75db that some owners hadn't done their setup correctly, but its a glitch and I stand corrected.


Just want to make sure you are following the instructions correctly so that your ARC works to the best it can.


Tom


----------



## gblack

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tngiloy*
I just want to make sure you understand Bob's instructions correctly that thestewman was kind enough to list in his post.


As I read your first post it sounded as if you went into the 'Speaker Level' section of setup and went down thru each speaker (LF/RF/C/LS/RS/SUB) and adjusted them to 75db. Before ARC this was the correct procedure.

When using ARC it is not correct.


At the risk of being a PITA, I want to make sure you understood the instructions correctly.


Set all speaker levels to '0' and leave them there. (You really only need to be sure that LF and sub are zeroed, but my OCD forces me to zero them all.) ARC will adjust and load the speaker levels as part of the upload.


Set the Anthem to Manual (still in the 'SpeakerLevel' section). Using your SPL meter set at C weight/slow set the 'Noise Level' so that it reads 75db.


Scroll down thru all the speakers to 'Sub'. Adjust the sub level to 75db using the subs volume/gain adjustment. Do not make any adjustments to any of the individual speakers in the Anthem setup menu. All speaker levels should be '0' including the sub. The only adjustments are to the 'Noise Level' and to the sub's own volume/gain.


Then you're ready to run ARC.


As Bob said, if the ARC reading is not on the 75db line don't worry, its OK.

I made the mistake a while back of assuming that if the ARC line isn't at 75db that some owners hadn't done their setup correctly, but its a glitch and I stand corrected.


Just want to make sure you are following the instructions correctly so that your ARC works to the best it can.


Tom
Yeah it was clear to me. My pre arc calibration had noise level +1.5 db and all other speakers basically within a half db of zero. Post arc then are +5/+6 db so I can't understand the big jump.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20905457
> 
> 
> I just want to make sure you understand Bob's instructions correctly that thestewman was kind enough to list in his post.
> 
> 
> As I read your first post it sounded as if you went into the 'Speaker Level' section of setup and went down thru each speaker (LF/RF/C/LS/RS/SUB) and adjusted them to 75db. *Before* ARC this was the correct procedure.
> 
> When using ARC it is *not* correct.
> 
> 
> At the risk of being a PITA, I want to make sure you understood the instructions correctly.
> 
> *Set all speaker levels to '0' and leave them there.* (You really only need to be sure that LF and sub are zeroed, but my OCD forces me to zero them all.) ARC will adjust and load the speaker levels as part of the upload.
> 
> 
> Set the Anthem to Manual (still in the 'SpeakerLevel' section). Using your SPL meter set at C weight/slow set the *'Noise Level'* so that it reads 75db.
> 
> 
> Scroll down thru all the speakers to 'Sub'. Adjust the sub level to 75db using the subs volume/gain adjustment. *Do not make any adjustments to any of the individual speakers in the Anthem setup menu. All speaker levels should be '0' including the sub.* *The only adjustments are to the 'Noise Level' and to the sub's own volume/gain.*
> 
> 
> Then you're ready to run ARC.
> 
> 
> As Bob said, if the ARC reading is not on the 75db line don't worry, its OK.
> 
> I made the mistake a while back of assuming that if the ARC line isn't at 75db that some owners hadn't done their setup correctly, but its a glitch and I stand corrected.
> 
> 
> Just want to make sure you are following the instructions correctly so that your ARC works to the best it can.
> 
> 
> Tom



Thanks for making the procedure so much clearer.


And everyone please call me Stew instead of the screen name


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/20905944
> 
> 
> Thanks for making the procedure so much clearer.
> 
> 
> And everyone please call me Stew instead of the screen name



Stew,

Bob's instructions were excellent. I just wasn't sure after reading gblack's post that he was following them.


Tom


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/20905476
> 
> 
> Yeah it was clear to me. My pre arc calibration had noise level +1.5 db and all other speakers basically within a half db of zero. Post arc then are +5/+6 db so I can't understand the big jump.



Just so I understand, your 'noise level' was set at +1.5 to get a 75db reading; LF and Sub set to '0' and your sub adjusted to 75db using the volume knob on the back of your sub. You then ran ARC and it uploaded levels of +5/+6 to all your speakers, including the LF.


If this is correct then something is wrong.

The 'noise level' uses your LF speaker for calibratiion, so it should upload a level of '0' (maybe +-0.5 allowing for differences in the ARC mic and your spl meter). If you are getting a setting of +5 then something is wrong with your spl meter or ARC.

First try a new battery in the spl meter. Then make sure you have it set to C weight/slow, and that the knob is set to '70' range, and then redo the 'noise level'.

If that seems consistent with the +1.5 reading you had before then the spl meter is probably OK.


You might then try a new upload of the newest ARC firmware from the Anthem website. Then redo ARC and upload.


You might try turning off your laptop's firewall while running and uploading ARC . I sometimes can't get ARC to run correctly with my firewall up. It will get stuck running sweeps on one speaker or won't upload speaker levels correctly.


If none of this works then I'm stumped.


Tom


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20907645
> 
> 
> ............... You then ran ARC and it uploaded levels of +5/+6 to all your speakers, including the LF.
> 
> 
> If this is correct then something is wrong...........
> 
> Tom



I agree that if ALL speaker levels are altered by a like amount, then something is not quite right.


But it is normal if, say, the fronts are altered by -3dB and the rears by +3dB. This is due to factors like the type (cone, planar, etc.) of each speaker, efficiency of each speaker and their location in the room. ARC is simply trying to balance the loudness of all the speakers.


Ben


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20907645
> 
> 
> Just so I understand, your 'noise level' was set at +1.5 to get a 75db reading; LF and Sub set to '0' and your sub adjusted to 75db using the volume knob on the back of your sub. You then ran ARC and it uploaded levels of +5/+6 to all your speakers, including the LF.
> 
> 
> If this is correct then something is wrong.
> 
> The 'noise level' uses your LF speaker for calibratiion, so it should upload a level of '0' (maybe +-0.5 allowing for differences in the ARC mic and your spl meter). If you are getting a setting of +5 then something is wrong with your spl meter or ARC.
> 
> First try a new battery in the spl meter. Then make sure you have it set to C weight/slow, and that the knob is set to '70' range, and then redo the 'noise level'.
> 
> If that seems consistent with the +1.5 reading you had before then the spl meter is probably OK.
> 
> 
> You might then try a new upload of the newest ARC firmware from the Anthem website. Then redo ARC and upload.
> 
> 
> You might try turning off your laptop's firewall while running and uploading ARC . I sometimes can't get ARC to run correctly with my firewall up. It will get stuck running sweeps on one speaker or won't upload speaker levels correctly.
> 
> 
> If none of this works then I'm stumped.
> 
> 
> Tom



All good suggestions Tom. I will give all of that a try and another go. Will report back here what I find.


GB


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/20908091
> 
> 
> All good suggestions Tom. I will give all of that a try and another go. Will report back here what I find.
> 
> 
> GB



Okay few observations.


Re-ran the procedure exactly as specified by Bob. Post ARC the speaker levels are now within 1db of zero as opposed to being raised 5-6db the last time. Also my noise level this time was +2.5db not 1.5db when I did it before.


Attached are the post run graphs. The curves look similar but again the scale on the charts is off and even lower this time (I trust that this is indeed a bug as Bob describes - though hard to believe Anthem hasn't addressed that. Can't be that difficult a bug to solve).


One thing I noticed and i never paid attention to this before is it seems that anthem provided the wrong mic calibration file. The ARC outside box, the package for the Mic and the CD are all labelled as serial # 101006. But the calibration file that is actually on the disc is labelled 1010101 (correctly identifying my pre-pro's serial number in the file name though). So I think I need to contact Anthem to get the corrected calibration file - not sure how much a difference that can make.


Thoughts on curves?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/20908386
> 
> 
> Okay few observations.
> 
> 
> Re-ran the procedure exactly as specified by Bob. Post ARC the speaker levels are now within 1db of zero as opposed to being raised 5-6db the last time. Also my noise level this time was +2.5db not 1.5db when I did it before.
> 
> 
> Attached are the post run graphs. The curves look similar but again the scale on the charts is off and even lower this time (I trust that this is indeed a bug as Bob describes - though hard to believe Anthem hasn't addressed that. Can't be that difficult a bug to solve).
> 
> 
> One thing I noticed and i never paid attention to this before is it seems that anthem provided the wrong mic calibration file. The ARC outside box, the package for the Mic and the CD are all labelled as serial # 101006. But the calibration file that is actually on the disc is labelled 1010101 (correctly identifying my pre-pro's serial number in the file name though). So I think I need to contact Anthem to get the corrected calibration file - not sure how much a difference that can make.
> 
> 
> Thoughts on curves?



I would contact Anthem about the file on your disc. Its possible it was just a typo, but I believe they keep records of all the mic calibration files so if there is a mistake they can send you a new disc, or maybe even send an e-mail with the file attatched. I don't think they are closed on Labor Day so you might be able to contact Anthem Tech today.

As far as the glitch on the charts, I think probably only us tweakers really notice it, but it would be nice if they could fix it. Why don't you mention it when you ask about your mic file and let us know what they say.


Your speaker levels seem much more reasonable. Looks like what ever was the problem in your previous runs is fixed.


I'm not the expert on ARC graphs, but it looks like your fronts have a peak in their lower frequencies. This can be caused by the fronts being too close to the wall behind them. ARC has taken care of it pretty well, but if you have the time and desire you can use the 'Quick Measure' feature in ARC and try to tune them in a little. Sometimes you're pretty limited to how much you can move speakers, but just a little bit out from the wall sometimes makes a difference.


Tom


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/20907964
> 
> 
> I agree that if ALL speaker levels are altered by a like amount, then something is not quite right.
> 
> 
> But it is normal if, say, the fronts are altered by -3dB and the rears by +3dB. This is due to factors like the type (cone, planar, etc.) of each speaker, efficiency of each speaker and their location in the room. ARC is simply trying to balance the loudness of all the speakers.
> 
> 
> Ben



I agree that ARC will compensate for the loudness of speakers compared to the 'noise level' and that it could certainly be +-5/6 db (or more) depending on the speaker type and distance discrepencies.

But I was under the impression that the LF should be pretty close to zero since it is the speaker used to set the 'noise level', and the other speakers are raised or lowered to match its level. But I could be wrong about that.

But since I've always used speakers that are pretty well matched and try to keep distances as equal as I can, my levels have always been within 1db. I sometimes forget that not everyone has the same setup that I do.


Tom


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I would contact Anthem about the file on your disc. Its possible it was just a typo, but I believe they keep records of all the mic calibration files so if there is a mistake they can send you a new disc, or maybe even send an e-mail with the file attatched. I don't think they are closed on Labor Day so you might be able to contact Anthem Tech today.
> 
> As far as the glitch on the charts, I think probably only us tweakers really notice it, but it would be nice if they could fix it. Why don't you mention it when you ask about your mic file and let us know what they say.
> 
> 
> Your speaker levels seem much more reasonable. Looks like what ever was the problem in your previous runs is fixed.
> 
> 
> I'm not the expert on ARC graphs, but it looks like your fronts have a peak in their lower frequencies. This can be caused by the fronts being too close to the wall behind them. ARC has taken care of it pretty well, but if you have the time and desire you can use the 'Quick Measure' feature in ARC and try to tune them in a little. Sometimes you're pretty limited to how much you can move speakers, but just a little bit out from the wall sometimes makes a difference.
> 
> 
> Tom



I'll call Piero in the am at anthem. Today is a holiday in Toronto and I'd be surprised if they're working.


Thanks for the comments on the charts. My fronts are bi-polar mirage speakers and so there are drivers on the front and rear of the speakers and they're places close to the front left/right corners. They're about 18" from back wall and almost butted up against side. I don't have much room to maneuver them. But as you say, it looks like ARC has the peak tamed anyways.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/20909001
> 
> 
> I'll call Piero in the am at anthem. Today is a holiday in Toronto and I'd be surprised if they're working.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the comments on the charts. My fronts are bi-polar mirage speakers and so there are drivers on the front and rear of the speakers and they're places close to the front left/right corners. They're about 18" from back wall and almost butted up against side. I don't have much room to maneuver them. But as you say, it looks like ARC has the peak tamed anyways.



GB:


To flatten out your subwoofer response, please go to ARC's subwoofer settings in the targets menu (see Ninja12 post a few posts back http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=34300 ). This will maximize the bass output from your subwoofer and ensure the lowest of frequencies are output at similat levels.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20908932
> 
> 
> I agree that ARC will compensate for the loudness of speakers compared to the 'noise level' and that it could certainly be +-5/6 db (or more) depending on the speaker type and distance discrepencies.
> 
> But I was under the impression that the LF should be pretty close to zero since it is the speaker used to set the 'noise level', and the other speakers are raised or lowered to match its level. But I could be wrong about that.
> 
> But since I've always used speakers that are pretty well matched and try to keep distances as equal as I can, my levels have always been within 1db. I sometimes forget that not everyone has the same setup that I do.
> 
> 
> Tom



Looking at the history of all my past measurements, apparently ARC looks for an average loudness level correction. If the difference between 2 speakers in the system is, say 6dB, then it places a -3dB correction for the loudest speaker and a +3dB correction for the softest, with those in between adjusted accordingly.


It would be interesting to hear from other ARC users on their post ARC speaker setup levels. Here's my own latest from a system which comprises electrostatic and cone units -


FL -3dB

FR -3.5dB

C. +3.5dB

RL +1.5dB

RR +3.5dB

SW -1.5dB


As you can correctly guess, the fronts are stats speakers, which have the characteristic line speaker rate of loudness decay compared to the center/rear cone type speakers.


Ben


----------



## p.las

M&K s150 mkII front/center

M&K s150T surround

2 x M&K mx 350


LF = 0

C = -0,5

LR = 0

RS = +1.5

LS = +1.0

sub = -1.5


my target curve hits 75 db.


the processor have make wonders for my system.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/20911122
> 
> 
> Looking at the history of all my past measurements, apparently ARC looks for an average loudness level correction. If the difference between 2 speakers in the system is, say 6dB, then it places a -3dB correction for the loudest speaker and a +3dB correction for the softest, with those in between adjusted accordingly.
> 
> 
> It would be interesting to hear from other ARC users on their post ARC speaker setup levels. Here's my own latest from a system which comprises electrostatic and cone units -
> 
> 
> FL -3dB
> 
> FR -3.5dB
> 
> C. +3.5dB
> 
> RL +1.5dB
> 
> RR +3.5dB
> 
> SW -1.5dB
> 
> 
> As you can correctly guess, the fronts are stats speakers, which have the characteristic line speaker rate of loudness decay compared to the center/rear cone type speakers.
> 
> 
> Ben



I believe you Ben. Your levels are enough to rebutt my hypothosis that LF is always '0'.

As I said I was basing my thoughts on my experiences, and I've always had speaker systems that are closely matched from the same manufacturer, and always tried to keep speaker distances as equal as possible.

My speaker levels are similar to p.las's. I can see that his speakers are closely matched to each other like mine.


Interesting that ARC decided to compensate for the 6db difference in your speakers by lowering the fronts and raising the center by 3db, and not leaving the LF at 0 and boosting the other speakers by 6db. Wonder why??

It would be nice if one of the ARC engineers would let us know.


Out of curiosity, are your graphs adjusted in any other way by the 6db difference? Do your graphs follow the 75db line or is it off by 6db also?


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I believe you Ben. Your levels are enough to rebutt my hypothosis that LF is always '0'.
> 
> As I said I was basing my thoughts on my experiences, and I've always had speaker systems that are closely matched from the same manufacturer, and always tried to keep speaker distances as equal as possible.
> 
> My speaker levels are similar to p.las's. I can see that his speakers are closely matched to each other like mine.
> 
> 
> Interesting that ARC decided to compensate for the 6db difference in your speakers by lowering the fronts and raising the center by 3db, and not leaving the LF at 0 and boosting the other speakers by 6db. Wonder why??
> 
> It would be nice if one of the ARC engineers would let us know.
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, are your graphs adjusted in any other way by the 6db difference? Do your graphs follow the 75db line or is it off by 6db also?
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom,

Easier to cut than to boost levels due to possible stressing of speakers.

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20911863
> 
> 
> Tom,
> 
> Easier to cut than to boost levels due to possible stressing of speakers.
> 
> John



Excellent point.

But then, why didn't ARC choose to cut his fronts by 6db? I'm sure the engineers had a reason to split the difference, just wondering why.

Guess I'll never know. And it really doesn't matter since ARC works so well.









Time to stop worrying and put on some Led Zep and enjoy!


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20912172
> 
> 
> Excellent point.
> 
> But then, why didn't ARC choose to cut his fronts by 6db? I'm sure the engineers had a reason to split the difference, just wondering why.
> 
> Guess I'll never know. And it really doesn't matter since ARC works so well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to stop worrying and put on some Led Zep and enjoy!
> 
> 
> Tom



Exactly. I spend most of my time just enjoying the great sound but I know others like to tweak just for the fun or frustration of it


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20911639
> 
> 
> ....... Out of curiosity, are your graphs adjusted in any other way by the 6db difference? Do your graphs follow the 75db line or is it off by 6db also?
> 
> 
> Tom



My graphs are corrected at the 66dB level.


Ben


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Guys, it's been a while since I've updated a D2(V). I have to move my D2V to a different shelf, and thus have to disconnect literally every connection on the back of it, to place it on the new shelf. I recall that this may be ideal for the upgrade (ie, nothing much connected to it, especially in the HDMI arena!). So while I have everything disconnected I figured I would update it. But any other gotchas I should know? I had ARC'd it under 2.08 about a year ago, and I was very satisfied with the ARC results at that time. Do I need to redo everything though? What about the config itself? It will still be retained post-upgrade right? Lastly, what new features/functions in the current GA version should I make sure to address right after the upgrade to get the most out of the new version?


Sorry for all the questions, I've lost track of most of what Anthem is up to. Thanks all!


-Brian


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Guys, it's been a while since I've updated a D2(V). I have to move my D2V to a different shelf, and thus have to disconnect literally every connection on the back of it, to place it on the new shelf. I recall that this may be ideal for the upgrade (ie, nothing much connected to it, especially in the HDMI arena!). So while I have everything disconnected I figured I would update it. But any other gotchas I should know? I had ARC'd it under 2.08 about a year ago, and I was very satisfied with the ARC results at that time. Do I need to redo everything though? What about the config itself? It will still be retained post-upgrade right? Lastly, what new features/functions in the current GA version should I make sure to address right after the upgrade to get the most out of the new version?
> 
> 
> Sorry for all the questions, I've lost track of most of what Anthem is up to. Thanks all!
> 
> 
> -Brian



Save user settings first. Most upload ARC files after firmware upgrades. No need to remeasure unless you last used an earlier version of ARC. Anything less than 3.00 and you might want to remeasure as there were some significant changes. Or you can use the newest version to reprocess your older file and then upload that.

John


----------



## 600M_Home

Greetings All,


Finally got the B/O surround speaker back from Paradigm and back up on the wall. I re-ran ARC and here are my charts and targets, any help/comments would be most welcome. Thanks for all the help in the past with the speaker issueseems OK now.


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *600M_Home*
Greetings All,


Finally got the B/O surround speaker back from Paradigm and back up on the wall. I re-ran ARC and here are my charts and targets, any help/comments would be most welcome. Thanks for all the help in the past with the speaker issueseems OK now.
Looks very good all round. That sub looks like a Hall of Fame candidate







Should sound excellent.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20921605
> 
> 
> Looks very good all round. That sub looks like a Hall of Fame candidate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should sound excellent.
> 
> John



+1 and the sub gets my vote for the Hall of Fame.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> +1 and the sub gets my vote for the Hall of Fame.



I hereby appoint it to the Sub Hall of Fame









John


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/20922506
> 
> 
> +1 and the sub gets my vote for the Hall of Fame.



+2


Wow!


----------



## ManWithAPlan

I just noticed my original ARC measurements and saved files were all under ARC 2.4. I see we're now up to 3.0.2, so I'm going to upgrade on my WinXP machine here pronto! [Not sure if I should remove the old ARC software, or just install this right over the top of the old]. But first and foremost, before I do ARC, I need to update from 2.08 on my D2V to 2.10 I guess. I assume I can go in 1 jump from 2.08 to 2.10. So here goes nothing guys...but it does seem like I will need to do complete re-measurements of everything when i get the new ARC version running. Will my existing ARC settings continue to exist at least in the D2V after I upgrade to 2.11??? I certainly hope so, as I'd rather have something than nothing in there, even if it's not perfect. It will take me several days before I can run ARC re-measurement with the full MIC setups, etc. [We are in the midst of a large renovation].


Wish me luck gang, I'm taking the dive into 2.10 and ARC 3.0.2-land!


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/20924483
> 
> 
> I just noticed my original ARC measurements and saved files were all under ARC 2.4. I see we're now up to 3.0.2, so I'm going to upgrade on my WinXP machine here pronto! [Not sure if I should remove the old ARC software, or just install this right over the top of the old]. But first and foremost, before I do ARC, I need to update from 2.08 on my D2V to 2.10 I guess. I assume I can go in 1 jump from 2.08 to 2.10. So here goes nothing guys...but it does seem like I will need to do complete re-measurements of everything when i get the new ARC version running. Will my existing ARC settings continue to exist at least in the D2V after I upgrade to 2.11??? I certainly hope so, as I'd rather have something than nothing in there, even if it's not perfect. It will take me several days before I can run ARC re-measurement with the full MIC setups, etc. [We are in the midst of a large renovation].
> 
> 
> Wish me luck gang, I'm taking the dive into 2.10 and ARC 3.0.2-land!



Yes your ARC will still be there after the firmware upgrade but you have the cable connected so using the new version of arc open your old measurement file, recalculate and upload with the new 3.02 calculations.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/20924592
> 
> 
> Yes your ARC will still be there after the firmware upgrade but you have the cable connected so using the new version of arc open your old measurement file, recalculate and upload with the new 3.02 calculations.



Very cool, except there's a new twist here - it appears I have lost the old files on my machine. Or to be clear, I have too many files, not sure which was the real deal! Any way to download the saved ARC settings directly from the D2V to "suck" whatever settings are in there down into my laptop? Thanks again.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/20924697
> 
> 
> Very cool, except there's a new twist here - it appears I have lost the old files on my machine. Or to be clear, I have too many files, not sure which was the real deal! Any way to download the saved ARC settings directly from the D2V to "suck" whatever settings are in there down into my laptop? Thanks again.



I don't see a way to download an ARC file from the Anthem to your computer, just a button to upload from your computer to the Anthem.


When I upgraded from ARC 2.4 to 3.0.2 and pulled up a 2.4 file I got a popup window saying that the 2.4 file might not be compatible with 3.0.2, and suggested a new measurement.


Might be time to get out the mic and stand and do a new measurement. It probably wouldn't take much longer than messing around with your computer.

Maybe less. And you will have a new measurement you can be sure is compatible with 3.0.2 .


Tom


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20925427
> 
> 
> I don't see a way to download an ARC file from the Anthem to your computer, just a button to upload from your computer to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> When I upgraded from ARC 2.4 to 3.0.2 and pulled up a 2.4 file I got a popup window saying that the 2.4 file might not be compatible with 3.0.2, and suggested a new measurement.
> 
> 
> Might be time to get out the mic and stand and do a new measurement. It probably wouldn't take much longer than messing around with your computer.
> 
> Maybe less. And you will have a new measurement you can be sure is compatible with 3.0.2 .
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom,


Thanks, yes, excellent point. I think I'll wait for the construction equipment to leave the room here, get it situated and then take fresh new measurements. Until then (a week or so), I'll just limp along with the existing ARC measurements that were in there all along. Certainly better than no ARC at all. Now I just need to figure out this whole Dolby Volume thing. I see it set to 9 and On for audio sources, and set to 9 and Cinema for things like Sat TV and Cable, and DVD/BR. If I understand it correctly, this could be quite helpful for at least TV viewing.


Thanks again Tom,

Brian


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20918701
> 
> 
> Save user settings first. Most upload ARC files after firmware upgrades. No need to remeasure unless you last used an earlier version of ARC. Anything less than 3.00 and you might want to remeasure as there were some significant changes. Or you can use the newest version to reprocess your older file and then upload that.
> 
> John



John,


Is there somewhere on this forum where I can find the changes that occurred from version 2.4 to 3.0.2? I had an audio engineer tweak my system when I first purchased it and I am told I will lose all of his work if I upgrade. If the changes to 3.0.2 are significant enough, I guess I will suck it up and make the upgrade.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/20925860
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> Is there somewhere on this forum where I can find the changes that occurred from version 2.4 to 3.0.2? I had an audio engineer tweak my system when I first purchased it and I am told I will lose all of his work if I upgrade. If the changes to 3.0.2 are significant enough, I guess I will suck it up and make the upgrade.



Just download ARC 3.02 from Anthem's site and in the folder will be the README ARC CD file. This will list the changes from 2.04 to 3.02. There a lot of changes so I would recommend, as others have, that you remeasure with this new version. Also, install on top of the older version. This will save your calibration files for the microphone.

John


----------



## ManWithAPlan

I guess I'm kinda slow at all this, but in anticipation of my new 3D-capable TV, I found out that DirecTV now provides some 3D channels and they've fixed all known issues they had earlier with their 3D broadcasts. That's great. But I guess I will not be able to enjoy them because the D2V will not pass the 3D signal on to the new TV. Or at least it seems that will be the case. Of course, I will try it anyway when the new TV arrives in 10 days here, but I think I'll be stuck until Anthem provides an HDMI 1.4 upgrade for the D2V. In the meantime, I know I can use my new Oppo95 to send 3D out of HDMI1 directly to the TV, bypassing the D2V altogether, but the DTV box doesn't have 2 HDMI outs for this type of setup. I'd love to see the ESPN 3D channel and others for big sports events etc. Hmmmm...


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/20931539
> 
> 
> I guess I'm kinda slow at all this, but in anticipation of my new 3D-capable TV, I found out that DirecTV now provides some 3D channels and they've fixed all known issues they had earlier with their 3D broadcasts. That's great. But I guess I will not be able to enjoy them because the D2V will not pass the 3D signal on to the new TV. Or at least it seems that will be the case. Of course, I will try it anyway when the new TV arrives in 10 days here, but I think I'll be stuck until Anthem provides an HDMI 1.4 upgrade for the D2V. In the meantime, I know I can use my new Oppo95 to send 3D out of HDMI1 directly to the TV, bypassing the D2V altogether, but the DTV box doesn't have 2 HDMI outs for this type of setup. I'd love to see the ESPN 3D channel and others for big sports events etc. Hmmmm...



You can do the same thing with DirectTV.


Get a cheap HDMI Switch from Monoprice and send the 3D

Video directly to the TV as with the Oppo. Maybe your TV

has multiple HDMI inputs - then you do not need a switch.


REMEMBER there is NO Hi-Def audio on TV - all you need is

a cheap optical cable from DirecTV to D2v.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20931675
> 
> 
> You can do the same thing with DirectTV.
> 
> 
> Get a cheap HDMI Switch from Monoprice and send the 3D
> 
> Video directly to the TV as with the Oppo. Maybe your TV
> 
> has multiple HDMI inputs - then you do not need a switch.
> 
> 
> REMEMBER there is NO Hi-Def audio on TV - all you need is
> 
> a cheap optical cable from DirecTV to D2v.



Yeah, it's just kinda sloppy setting it up that way, that's all. More things to worry about failing with an HDMI switch, etc. Plus I use the HDMI2 out of the D2V now for when I sit in my recliner next to the salamander rack and not in view of the main zone display. So I would be missing the output there, and also need output in Zones 2 and 3 so that would be an issue. It just gets really sloppy real quickly. I really want to see if the D2V can handle these 3d signals and just pass them through without issue. The more I research, it seems that *some* receivers that are only HDMI 1.3 compatible are indeed working for some guys to pass these signals. But of course 100% of the 1.4 compliant receivers are working just fine. So, it seems to be hit or miss with 1.3 capable receivers. I'm wondering if someone else has tackled this with DirecTV specifically, and can vouch for the D2V's ability to handle this or not. Thanks Hank, always good to hear your thoughts, as I know you've conquered just about everything when it comes to the D2. Cheers.


-Brian


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*
Yeah, it's just kinda sloppy setting it up that way, that's all. More things to worry about failing with an HDMI switch, etc. Plus I use the HDMI2 out of the D2V now for when I sit in my recliner next to the salamander rack and not in view of the main zone display. So I would be missing the output there, and also need output in Zones 2 and 3 so that would be an issue. It just gets really sloppy real quickly. I really want to see if the D2V can handle these 3d signals and just pass them through without issue. The more I research, it seems that *some* receivers that are only HDMI 1.3 compatible are indeed working for some guys to pass these signals. But of course 100% of the 1.4 compliant receivers are working just fine. So, it seems to be hit or miss with 1.3 capable receivers. I'm wondering if someone else has tackled this with DirecTV specifically, and can vouch for the D2V's ability to handle this or not. Thanks Hank, always good to hear your thoughts, as I know you've conquered just about everything when it comes to the D2. Cheers.


-Brian
With my MRX 500 I couldn't get 3D to work even though it is 1.4 compliant. Turned out it was the port saver I was using. Lots of things can interfere with 3D syncing. I'll try to find out when that upgrade is coming.

John


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jayray* 
With my MRX 500 I couldn't get 3D to work even though it is 1.4 compliant. Turned out it was the port saver I was using. Lots of things can interfere with 3D syncing. I'll try to find out when that upgrade is coming.

John
Thanks Jayray. Much appreciated. BTW, are you saying that once you got rid of the port saver dongle, that your MRX500 then passed the DirecTV 3D channel just fine? I would think so, but let me know.


Thanks again!

Brian


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*
Thanks Jayray. Much appreciated. BTW, are you saying that once you got rid of the port saver dongle, that your MRX500 then passed the DirecTV 3D channel just fine? I would think so, but let me know.


Thanks again!

Brian
This was with my PS3, not my SA 8300 PVR. Just wanted to mention that this port saver worked fine on 1080p/24 signals but wouldn't with 3D Blu-rays.

John


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jayray* 
This was with my PS3, not my SA 8300 PVR. Just wanted to mention that this port saver worked fine on 1080p/24 signals but wouldn't with 3D Blu-rays.

John
Ahh, I see. That's interesting. I use Port Savers as well, I bought them several years back from Monoprice I think. They had been recommended on this forum. I wonder if I should ditch them all now to give my 3d from the Oppo and eventually from the DirecTV the best chance of working.


Good feedback anyway Jayray, this stuff doesn't get any easier with these cable choices. I've also found that some "1.3 certified" cables that will work fine with Deep Color and 1080p, etc. may not work with 3D signals...nor with the Audio Return Channel stuff. I believe Audio Return Channel will be coming with the Anthem upgrades for D2V, right? And if so, I could get the audio from the TV itself (has its own HuluPlus apps, Skype camera and audio,etc) to come back into the D2V, something I will definitely need one way or another. I'd prefer to use HDMI for that of course, but there again, to prepare for all eventuality I should be purchasing HDMI cable today that can handle all this 3D and Audio Return business. Some of my existing runs will not work I suspect. Uggh...I hate this HDMI business.


-Brian


----------



## jayray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*
Ahh, I see. That's interesting. I use Port Savers as well, I bought them several years back from Monoprice I think. They had been recommended on this forum. I wonder if I should ditch them all now to give my 3d from the Oppo and eventually from the DirecTV the best chance of working.


Good feedback anyway Jayray, this stuff doesn't get any easier with these cable choices. I've also found that some "1.3 certified" cables that will work fine with Deep Color and 1080p, etc. may not work with 3D signals...nor with the Audio Return Channel stuff. I believe Audio Return Channel will be coming with the Anthem upgrades for D2V, right? And if so, I could get the audio from the TV itself (has its own HuluPlus apps, Skype camera and audio,etc) to come back into the D2V, something I will definitely need one way or another. I'd prefer to use HDMI for that of course, but there again, to prepare for all eventuality I should be purchasing HDMI cable today that can handle all this 3D and Audio Return business. Some of my existing runs will not work I suspect. Uggh...I hate this HDMI business.


-Brian
It was a monoprice port saver, go figure.

John


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jayray* 
It was a monoprice port saver, go figure.

John
Unreal, yeah. I'm thinking of ditching all my old 15 foot runs of first generation Kimber HDMI cables and just getting the cablemart flexible extreme cables for like 35 bucks a piece for 15 feet. They clearly state they are 3D and Deep Color and Audio Return Channel capable, and shouldn't need port savers as they bend very easily. Hmmm, maybe a worthy investment that will be guaranteed to work well now and in the future.


----------



## mkaye

i thought HDMI 1.3 supports 3D (not 1080p 3D)

unless the STB is putting out 1080p i don't see why you can't enjoy ESPN in 3D

@1080i


mark


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/20933568
> 
> 
> i thought HDMI 1.3 supports 3D (not 1080p 3D)
> 
> unless the STB is putting out 1080p i don't see why you can't enjoy ESPN in 3D
> 
> @1080i
> 
> 
> mark



Mark,


Yes, upon further research, it looks like you're right. However, DirecTV also uses native 1080p for the PPV that is 3D. And as far as I've been able to tell, HDMI 1.3 will not support Audio Return Channel, something that I would think Anthem will eventually support when the hardware upgrade to 1.4 comes out. So, there again, I only wanna lay these cables once, so I need to "future-proof" if you will from a cabling perspective. But I do appreciate the help - and you're right, 3D should pass with HDMI 1.3, so it's possible that at least basic viewing of 1080i-based 3D will work right now. As long as I bypass the D2V.


-Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/20736757
> 
> 
> I have been asked by an acquaintance for advice on scaler settings so thought I'd copy my response here because the question comes up fairly often. Note that the settings below for TV relate to Rogers cable service, adjust as necessary for other services. If you're in a PAL region simply substitute 576i where you see 480i below, and 50 for where you see 60.
> 
> *Blu-ray Player*:
> 
> 
> -set output to 16:9 (not 16:9 auto/wide)
> 
> 
> It is assumed that the player will output 480i60 when playing SD and 1080p24 when playing film-based Blu-ray.
> 
> *Cable box*:
> 
> 
> - set picture size to Full
> 
> - to set Scientific Atlanta box to native mode it is not enough to set Picture Format to Auto HDMI in the setup menu, you must also turn power off, press Guide+Info on the box front panel, then follow on-screen instructions to go to Advanced mode and select 1080i, 720p, and 480i Standard. Do not select the other three options even though your display can show them.
> 
> *Display* (assumed to be 1080p60 and 1080p24 capable):
> 
> 
> - set to dot for dot, disable overscan and masking
> 
> - set scaling to stretch (not panoramic side stretch nor zoom. Use 4:3 horizontal squeeze only if using a fixed anamorphic lens when not watching 2.4:1 source.)
> 
> *AVM/D*:
> 
> 
> In menu 1 set Video Output 1 to 1080p60 output and Video Output 2 to 1080p24.
> 
> 
> In menu 6 rename sources:
> 
> 
> DVD1 - DVD-WS (for anamorphic widescreen sources and Blu-ray which is 1080i60 or 720p60)
> 
> DVD2 - DVD-FS (for fullscreen sources to be displayed in 4:3)
> 
> DVD3 - DVD-LB (for widescreen letterboxed movies)
> 
> DVD4 - DVD-An (when using anamorphic lens)
> 
> TV1 - TV (for most channels via Rogers box, SD ones will be displayed in 4:3)
> 
> TV2 - TV-ZM1 (for letterboxed SD channels)
> 
> TV3 - TV-ZM2 (for windowboxed HD channels)
> 
> TV4 - TV-TCM (for Turner Classic Movies HD when it's underscanning)
> 
> SAT1 - Blu-24 (for Blu-ray which is 1080p24)
> 
> SAT2 - Blu-An (when using anamorphic lens)
> 
> 
> Assign video output 2 to the two SAT sources, output 1 for the rest.
> 
> 
> In the video processing menu (first select source then press and hold 7 on the remote, source must be playing, note that defaults are HDMI Auto Detect for Crop Input and Anamorphic Stretch for Scale Out, also remember to press Select after highlighting the desired option):
> 
> 
> DVD-WS - defaults
> 
> DVD-FS - change Scale Out to Letter/Pillar box (this shows 4:3 as 4:3, not stretched sideways)
> 
> DVD-LB - change Crop Input to 16:9 (this zooms the picture to delete letterboxing)
> 
> DVD-An - change Crop Input to Custom and Vertical Size to 810 (25% vertical stretch to set up 2.4:1 image for anamorphic projection)
> 
> TV - change Crop Input to Custom, Horizontal Size to 1892 / Vertical Size to 1064 (this trims the edges), Scale Out to Letter/Pillar Box (this shows SD channels in original aspect ratio i.e. 4:3)
> 
> TV-ZM1 - Crop Input to Custom, Vertical Size to 810, Vertical Position 589 (this centers the image), Edges On to 3 (this fine tunes cropping the easy way), Scale Out to Letter/Pillar (this constrains the vertical and horizontal scaling)
> 
> TV-ZM2 - Crop Input to Custom, Horizontal Size to 1440, Vertical Size to 810, Edges On to 8 (you may also set Scale Out to Letter/Pillar to constrain scaling in case you need to adjust these settings)
> 
> TV-TCM - Crop Input to Custom, Horizontal Size to 1778, Vertical Size to 1000, Vertical Position to 626, Scale Out to Letter/Pillar (as above just in case, and sometimes a varying amount of Edges trimming is needed - adjust until width of image matches screen)
> 
> Blu-24 - defaults
> 
> Blu-An - Crop Input to Custom and Vertical Size to 810
> 
> *ETA*: Almost forgot, if you're using a non-US satellite service you might need this instead of TV-TCM:
> 
> 
> TV4 - rename to TV-An and use default settings, trim edges as necessary. This stretches SD channels sideways, which is necessary when they're broadcast anamorphically. (Yes, in some cases SDTV does get broadcast in the same way as DVD that's "enhanced for widescreen TVs".)



Guys, in my re-configuration of certain equipment and all here of late, I've also made Source Input changes and video processor setting changes on the D2V per the guide that Nick at Anthem noted back in July above. Now, I have not gone to the full lengths here, especially with regard to the TV sources, but for the DVD and BluRay specifically, I am following his guidance to a tee now. And I've made the necessary changes as noted to the video parameters for things like DVD-FS and DVD-LB. My question is just when exactly would I use DVD-FS or DVD-LB? I guess for those old Full Screen editions of DVD's (I think I have one or two still). Can someone give a good example of when they have used DVD-FS with specific titles? Same thing with DVD-LB. Most of my widescreen DVD's are letterboxed, take The Fifth Element for example. But when I choose to Crop input at 16:9 to delete the letterboxing as Nick advises in the "DVD-LB" input settings, things just don't look right to me. Maybe they are though and I'm just being stupid. Can someone enlighten me on the advisability and usage of "DVD-LB" as well?


Thanks guys, just trying to really get a rock-solid set of Source Input settings (both real and virtual!), so that I'm ready for the foreseeable future with things here. Once I push my rack back into the wall, there is no going back (well, not easily anyway!)...thanks all.


-Brian


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/20933585
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 
> 
> Yes, upon further research, it looks like you're right. However, DirecTV also uses native 1080p for the PPV that is 3D. And as far as I've been able to tell, HDMI 1.3 will not support Audio Return Channel, something that I would think Anthem will eventually support when the hardware upgrade to 1.4 comes out. So, there again, I only wanna lay these cables once, so I need to "future-proof" if you will from a cabling perspective. But I do appreciate the help - and you're right, 3D should pass with HDMI 1.3, so it's possible that at least basic viewing of 1080i-based 3D will work right now. As long as I bypass the D2V.
> 
> 
> -Brian



no need to bypass the D2v for 1080i 3D


mark


----------



## Nuport

Just purchased a sub1. Is it best to use ARC with the PBK kit or just ARC alone. Appreciate any input. Thanks.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nuport* /forum/post/20935499
> 
> 
> Just purchased a sub1. Is it best to use ARC with the PBK kit or just ARC alone. Appreciate any input. Thanks.



You can just use ARC first without PBK to see how that looks. After that, you can decide if you want to use PBK. If you do decide to use PBK, you will do PBK first and then ARC second.


Also, post your charts.


----------



## Nuport




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You can just use ARC first without PBK to see how that looks. After that, you can decide if you want to use PBK. If you do decide to use PBK, you will do PBK first and then ARC second.
> 
> 
> Also, post your charts.



Will do. I appreciate the insight.

Thank you.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nuport* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Will do. I appreciate the insight.
> 
> Thank you.



Sub 1, a beast









John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20946230
> 
> 
> Raise the cutoff to 120 Hz and your sub response should improve around the 100 Hz region. This will be a hall of fame sub response after the change. Post so I can see the effect.
> 
> John



John,


Actually my ARC sub cutoff is usually at 110, so I recalculated there.


Here is the chart. It does look better. I'm going to upload and listen.


Tom


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20947232
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> Actually my ARC sub cutoff is usually at 110, so I recalculated there.
> 
> 
> Here is the chart. It does look better. I'm going to upload and listen.
> 
> 
> Tom



Superb response indeed. That is one heck of a sub


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20947232
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> Actually my ARC sub cutoff is usually at 110, so I recalculated there.
> 
> 
> Here is the chart. It does look better. I'm going to upload and listen.
> 
> 
> Tom



Looks very good. I also think that you should set the cutoff for your sub to 120. It will have no problem with that at all. Anyway, what you have now and your other charts look good. Hopefully, it sounds as good as your charts look.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/20944059
> 
> 
> They talk about the M1 and 3D upgrade for the D2v and AVM50v
> 
> Interviews are from Home Theater Forum
> 
> *Part 1 of 4*
> 
> *Part 2 0f 4*
> 
> *Part 3 of 4*
> 
> *Part 4 of 4*



Thanks for sharing the info drhankz.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> Actually my ARC sub cutoff is usually at 110, so I recalculated there.
> 
> 
> Here is the chart. It does look better. I'm going to upload and listen.
> 
> 
> Tom



Perfect, that's the way, from the measured curve, I thought it should. Hall of Fame Worthy









John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20948067
> 
> 
> Perfect, that's the way, from the measured curve, I thought it should. Hall of Fame Worthy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



yep, it gets my vote.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> yep, it gets my vote.



Seems the Hall of Fame is motivating people to dial in some great results









John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20948067
> 
> 
> Perfect, that's the way, from the measured curve, I thought it should. Hall of Fame Worthy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Thanks everyone.

Its an SVS SB-13 Plus sub, and it works great in my smallish HT/mancave.

The ARC QM really helped to tune it in-- Great feature!!


As I said before, my cross-over (or is it cutoff) for the sub is usually at 110-120 on the ARC Targets page. I did force it to 120 and then uploaded the new ARC, and it sounds great for music and movies.

I think I'll re-run ARC again today and see if that 90 cross-over was an anomoly, or if my tweaking has caused ARC to find a different value. Then I swear, I'll sit back and just enjoy it.










Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone.
> 
> Its an SVS SB-13 Plus sub, and it works great in my smallish HT/mancave.
> 
> The ARC QM really helped to tune it in-- Great feature!!
> 
> 
> As I said before, my cross-over (or is it cutoff) for the sub is usually at 110-120 on the ARC Targets page. I did force it to 120 and then uploaded the new ARC, and it sounds great for music and movies.
> 
> I think I'll re-run ARC again today and see if that 90 cross-over was an anomoly, or if my tweaking has caused ARC to find a different value. Then I swear, I'll sit back and just enjoy it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



I rarely second guess ARC but if it comes in again at 90, change it to 120 and leave it. Your sub looks much better at 120.

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20948478
> 
> 
> I rarely second guess ARC but if it comes in again at 90, change it to 120 and leave it. Your sub looks much better at 120.
> 
> John



It came in at 105 this time, which is consistent with my prior ARC targets. It was usually somewhere between 105-115 on the ARC runs I still had on file. I took your advice and bumped it to 120, set the sub to 'flat' and bumped up my 'music' room gain from 1.1xxxx to 2.0.


Sounds great.


Thanks for the help guys.


Tom


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/20950053
> 
> 
> It came in at 105 this time, which is consistent with my prior ARC targets. It was usually somewhere between 105-115 on the ARC runs I still had on file. I took your advice and bumped it to 120, set the sub to 'flat' and bumped up my 'music' room gain from 1.1xxxx to 2.0.
> 
> 
> Sounds great.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help guys.
> 
> 
> Tom



Sounds good. Now, sit back and enjoy the fruits of you labor.


----------



## Miketr75

Hi all

I'm new to the forum.

I currently have the Marantz AV8003 which has speaker C for bi-amp option. My new D2V is coming this Friday, is there such option on the D2V ? Thanks


----------



## ashishaleti

Folks,


I have a questions but i fear it is outside this particular thread. unfortunately i wasnt able to track down a Anthem owners thread, hence i feel my question might get answered in this tread.


I called Anthem few days back and spoke to a customer rep regarding upgrading a AVM50 to AVM50v and upgrading a D2 to D2v. the customer rep said anthem never performed upgrades, the only thing i can do is swap the unit at a dealer for the newer model at a price. but on the contrary i have read on this and other forums that owners can actually send the unit to anthem for a hardware upgrade for a price. can any one on this forum please direct me in the right way. also would you know the price for those upgrades.


thanks


ashish


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ashishaleti* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Folks,
> 
> 
> I have a questions but i fear it is outside this particular thread. unfortunately i wasnt able to track down a Anthem owners thread, hence i feel my question might get answered in this tread.
> 
> 
> I called Anthem few days back and spoke to a customer rep regarding upgrading a AVM50 to AVM50v and upgrading a D2 to D2v. the customer rep said anthem never performed upgrades, the only thing i can do is swap the unit at a dealer for the newer model at a price. but on the contrary i have read on this and other forums that owners can actually send the unit to anthem for a hardware upgrade for a price. can any one on this forum please direct me in the right way. also would you know the price for those upgrades.
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> ashish



I believe this was discontinued a while back.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ashishaleti* /forum/post/20951151
> 
> 
> Folks,
> 
> 
> I have a questions but i fear it is outside this particular thread. unfortunately i wasnt able to track down a Anthem owners thread, hence i feel my question might get answered in this tread.
> 
> 
> I called Anthem few days back and spoke to a customer rep regarding upgrading a AVM50 to AVM50v and upgrading a D2 to D2v. the customer rep said anthem never performed upgrades, the only thing i can do is swap the unit at a dealer for the newer model at a price. but on the contrary i have read on this and other forums that owners can actually send the unit to anthem for a hardware upgrade for a price. can any one on this forum please direct me in the right way. also would you know the price for those upgrades.
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> ashish




I think somewhere back in this forum someone posted that Anthem discontinued the upgrades.

You might be better off selling the units on Audiogon and buying a new one.

I did just that and couldn't be happier.

I have the name of an excellent dealer if you need one.


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gblack* /forum/post/20940587
> 
> 
> Hmm interesting. There used to be an option in the D2 (not sure if it is still there in v1.33 SW) which was a flag called "Repeater" when set to Yes it would 'fool' the display device to consider the D2 as a simple repeater and ignore its processing capabilities. Is it as simple as just fooling the display that the D2 is a 3D device?



It was actually a swap to go to the V series. I know it was about $4,000 to upgrade the AVM-50 to a V. Anthem has discontinued the upgrade. You need to basically sell your old one and buy a new one. Your dealer may buy your old one from you and sell you a new one, but you would likely do better to sell your outright and then go and buy a new one.



Ed


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20951308
> 
> 
> I believe this was discontinued a while back.
> 
> John



John


You must type faster than me John your answer got in before mine.


Stew


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> You must type faster than me John your answer got in before mine.
> 
> 
> Stew



Stew,

I use fewer words









John


----------



## AVfile

Hello Nick @ Anthem


Where is the software team with the LVSE program, and how did you make out with the DTS-HD level discrepancies?


----------



## usxplong

Any news on new software release?

It has been a loooong time.


----------



## Montekay

Any idea why Zone 2 wouldn't work on the AVM-20 HD? It hasn't been used in a long time but it use to work and I don't think any settings have been changed. The interesting thing is that it does work for radio but not for DVD or SAT. Those are the only sources I've tried. If you put zone 2 on radio it all works fine but either Sat or DVD there is nothing. I don't think there is anything in the source settings that would mute zone 2. Those sources work fine on the main output so seems like just activating zone 2 and selecting the source should work. Any ideas?


thanks,

mk


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/20956980
> 
> 
> Any idea why Zone 2 wouldn't work on the AVM-20 HD? It hasn't been used in a long time but it use to work and I don't think any settings have been changed. The interesting thing is that it does work for radio but not for DVD or SAT. Those are the only sources I've tried. If you put zone 2 on radio it all works fine but either Sat or DVD there is nothing. I don't think there is anything in the source settings that would mute zone 2. Those sources work fine on the main output so seems like just activating zone 2 and selecting the source should work. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> mk



I believe that you have to have analogue video hooked up for Zone 2 to get a picture. You cannot be using HDMI as the video source and get Zone 2 to work for video.


I believe that the same thing applies for audio. You cannot use digital audio and direct analogue audio to Zone 2.


Ed


----------



## CycloneMike

Last night I connected a TV in a second room from the HDMI2 D2v output. Everything worked fine until I shut off the projector that is fed from the HDMI1 output. I then lost the output from the HDMI2 to my new TV.


I then turned the projector back on and the HDMI2 synced up and I had the picture (and sound at the TV) back. I then decided to see what would happen if I shut off the TV, and the same thing happened to my projector – it lost the picture from the HDMI1 output. When I turned the TV back on the picture on the projector synced back up.


I only tried this with my cable TV as it was getting late and I needed to go to bed…I have not tried to see if the same thing happens with my Blu-Ray player supplying the input; the Blu-Ray is connected to the D2v via HDMI for picture and sound. The cable TV is hooked up via component cable for video and coaxial digital cable for sound.


This is very disappointing as one reason I wanted the second TV was so I would not have to turn on the projector (and save bulb life) if I was just watching something for a short time where a projector or surround sound was not warranted...


It makes no sense to me that both the projector and the TV have to be turned on in order for the HDMI (HDCP) to sync. It should be able to do this with either or both of the units connected through HDMI.


Any suggestions as to what options I may have are welcome….Thanks, Mike


----------



## mkaye

audio priority?

if i define analog & digital audio inputs for an input, does the digital take priority over analog (only if present)?


mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> audio priority?
> 
> if i define analog & digital audio inputs for an input, does the digital take priority over analog (only if present)?
> 
> 
> mark



Only if you have Auto Dig ON in the Source Setup settings for that pair of connections. Otherwise your current Audio In setting will select which is used. Note that with Auto Dig ON, if the digital input goes away, then the analog input is used WITH ANALOG-DSP in effect.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/20957532
> 
> 
> Last night I connected a TV in a second room from the HDMI2 D2v output. Everything worked fine until I shut off the projector that is fed from the HDMI1 output. I then lost the output from the HDMI2 to my new TV.
> 
> 
> I then turned the projector back on and the HDMI2 synced up and I had the picture (and sound at the TV) back. I then decided to see what would happen if I shut off the TV, and the same thing happened to my projector - it lost the picture from the HDMI1 output. When I turned the TV back on the picture on the projector synced back up.
> 
> 
> I only tried this with my cable TV as it was getting late and I needed to go to bedI have not tried to see if the same thing happens with my Blu-Ray player supplying the input; the Blu-Ray is connected to the D2v via HDMI for picture and sound. The cable TV is hooked up via component cable for video and coaxial digital cable for sound.
> 
> 
> This is very disappointing as one reason I wanted the second TV was so I would not have to turn on the projector (and save bulb life) if I was just watching something for a short time where a projector or surround sound was not warranted...
> 
> 
> It makes no sense to me that both the projector and the TV have to be turned on in order for the HDMI (HDCP) to sync. It should be able to do this with either or both of the units connected through HDMI.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions as to what options I may have are welcome.Thanks, Mike



Mike, sorry to hear about this...i completely agree, it's unacceptable to just deal with it, as the whole point is to NOT run the main display in Main Zone when using the other HDMI2 output. So, I don't have any absolute answers for you, but having just done this myself, and not having the problem you're having, I have a couple suggestions.


1. Make sure there are no HDMI cable "adapters" or "port savers" or HDMI switches/detectives, etc. on these 2 connections for HDMI1 and HDMI2 outputs. Remove any that exist either on the D2V side or display side.


2. Are you running the latest D2V firmware, 2.10? I was not, but now am. Before I did, I would notice that HDMI2 when powered on would cause HDMI1 display to flash off and on and re-handshake for up to 4 or 5 seconds, then both would be on. Similarly, when I turned off HDMI1 completely and left HDMI2 on, it would flash weirdly and then finally leave HDMI2 on by itself just fine. Since upgrading to 2.10 from the old 2.08, I do not have that problem, and of course most importantly, I can just power up the D2V and my HDMI2 display (leaving HDMI1 display totally off) and it comes up no problem.


3. So, if you have 2.10, you now have a new setting under Video Output for Bitrate of video output. The default is Auto, but you may want to try toggling between 8bit, 10bit, or 12 bit, and see if that makes any difference in your ability to handle the second TV in HDMI2 output. You may have an issue where your projector on HDMI1 can handle 10 or 12 bit, but the TV in the other room on HDMI2 is only capable of say 8bit. I admit that this theory doesn't make sense if the HDMI1 display is not even turned on, but you never know, just something else to try.


Sorry, wish I had more suggestions, or something definite, but look at your Video Output settings and see if any changes there change the behavior at all. If nothing else, it would be worth knowing under what conditions the situation changes.


Let us know what you find,

Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/20957532
> 
> 
> Last night I connected a TV in a second room from the HDMI2 D2v output. Everything worked fine until I shut off the projector that is fed from the HDMI1 output. I then lost the output from the HDMI2 to my new TV.
> 
> 
> I then turned the projector back on and the HDMI2 synced up and I had the picture (and sound at the TV) back. I then decided to see what would happen if I shut off the TV, and the same thing happened to my projector - it lost the picture from the HDMI1 output. When I turned the TV back on the picture on the projector synced back up.
> 
> 
> I only tried this with my cable TV as it was getting late and I needed to go to bedI have not tried to see if the same thing happens with my Blu-Ray player supplying the input; the Blu-Ray is connected to the D2v via HDMI for picture and sound. The cable TV is hooked up via component cable for video and coaxial digital cable for sound.
> 
> 
> This is very disappointing as one reason I wanted the second TV was so I would not have to turn on the projector (and save bulb life) if I was just watching something for a short time where a projector or surround sound was not warranted...
> 
> 
> It makes no sense to me that both the projector and the TV have to be turned on in order for the HDMI (HDCP) to sync. It should be able to do this with either or both of the units connected through HDMI.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions as to what options I may have are welcome.Thanks, Mike



Check that you have the latest firmware in the D2v.


If that doesn't give you a simple fix, try your Cable box with Component video and Optical Digital audio instead of HDMI. The HDMI handshake is driven by the Source device, and it is possible your cable box has a poor implementation of HDMI which is not doing "repeater processing" correctly -- i.e., is not properly detecting that one or the other TV is OFF and thus need not participate in the copy protection stuff. If the two HDMI outputs work correctly when using non-HDMI from the cable box, then see if they still work correctly using some other HDMI source device. If so, then you know for sure it is your cable box at fault. See if your cable company has a newer model they can swap in for you.

--Bob


----------



## CycloneMike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20959604
> 
> 
> Check that you have the latest firmware in the D2v.
> 
> 
> If that doesn't give you a simple fix, try your Cable box with Component video and Optical Digital audio instead of HDMI. The HDMI handshake is driven by the Source device, and it is possible your cable box has a poor implementation of HDMI which is not doing "repeater processing" correctly -- i.e., is not properly detecting that one or the other TV is OFF and thus need not participate in the copy protection stuff. If the two HDMI outputs work correctly when using non-HDMI from the cable box, then see if they still work correctly using some other HDMI source device. If so, then you know for sure it is your cable box at fault. See if your cable company has a newer model they can swap in for you.
> 
> --Bob



I will check the firmware, but I already use component for the cable box (see my post - easy to miss).


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/20959734
> 
> 
> I will check the firmware, but I already use component for the cable box (see my post - easy to miss).
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike



If you don't find you need a firmware update, then call Anthem tech support. You should not need to have both displays powered up all the time.

--Bob


----------



## mkaye

does it work if you only power 1 display at a time? (i suspect it will)

the problem may be that when both are powered up & you power it down it disrupts the HDCP handshake & the devices aren't smart enough to recover

i would believe under ideal conditions that powering 1 display down would cause a momentary loss of audio/video on the other


mark


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3* /forum/post/20957189
> 
> 
> I believe that you have to have analogue video hooked up for Zone 2 to get a picture. You cannot be using HDMI as the video source and get Zone 2 to work for video.
> 
> 
> I believe that the same thing applies for audio. You cannot use digital audio and direct analogue audio to Zone 2.
> 
> 
> Ed



Apparently when I first set it up it was with over the air TV which is an analog connection from the TV. That works, only the Sat and Blu-Ray are not working and those are both connected via HDMI.


This seems like a pretty stupid design error. So if I want to put the Sat TV sound over the whole house audio I have to connect the sound through an analog input? Brilliant! Maybe I'll trash this thing and just stick a Denon AVR in there.


mk


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/20961376
> 
> 
> Apparently when I first set it up it was with over the air TV which is an analog connection from the TV. That works, only the Sat and Blu-Ray are not working and those are both connected via HDMI.
> 
> 
> This seems like a pretty stupid design error. So if I want to put the Sat TV sound over the whole house audio I have to connect the sound through an analog input? Brilliant! Maybe I'll trash this thing and just stick a Denon AVR in there.
> 
> 
> mk



Well, you can "Copy Zone 1 to Zone2" and thus get video/audio into that zone without a problem, but if you want truly independent switchability for Zone 2 for a given source, then that source must have analog audio connected in addition to whatever other connections you're using digitally for that source. That's why if you're even thinking of needing to be playing one thing in Zone1 while listening to a totally different source in Zone 2 for instance, or Zone 3, then you should connect analog cables for every source right from the start, so it's there when you need it. Otherwise, you're limited to just "Copy Zone X to Zone Y"...which doesn't always cut it.


Good luck, and stay away from Denon - 4 out of 5 dentists recommend listening with Anthem over that "other" brand










Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently when I first set it up it was with over the air TV which is an analog connection from the TV. That works, only the Sat and Blu-Ray are not working and those are both connected via HDMI.
> 
> 
> This seems like a pretty stupid design error. So if I want to put the Sat TV sound over the whole house audio I have to connect the sound through an analog input? Brilliant! Maybe I'll trash this thing and just stick a Denon AVR in there.
> 
> 
> mk



Copy Protection prevents conversion of HDMI input to Component output. The same video restriction you are finding on Zone 2 would apply if you used Component output for the Main path as well. It would not work for HDMI Sources.


The Sat video doesn't gain from using HDMI for video, so you can likely hook it up either just Component or BOTH HDMI and Component. Zone 2 would use the Component feed.


Blu-ray is another kettle of fish as new players are not supposed to output HD on Component.


The OPPO 93 and 95 were part of the last generation grandfathered under the old rules, and can output 1080i on Component for Blu-ray, while also producing HDMI HD output. NOTE that ALL Blu-ray players, no matter how old, will limit SD-DVD playback to 480p over Component.


------------------------------------


For audio, the limitation is that only the Main Path has the decoder to convert digital audio Sources to analog. So to get audio on Zone 2 you EITHER have to use an analog Source, OR you have to "Copy" Main to Zone 2 for audio.


When you Copy Main like that, the audio selected for Main is available as a Stereo down-mix on Zone 2, even if Main is currently listening to a digital audio Source.

--Bob


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Montekay* /forum/post/20961376
> 
> 
> Apparently when I first set it up it was with over the air TV which is an analog connection from the TV. That works, only the Sat and Blu-Ray are not working and those are both connected via HDMI.
> 
> 
> This seems like a pretty stupid design error. So if I want to put the Sat TV sound over the whole house audio I have to connect the sound through an analog input? Brilliant! Maybe I'll trash this thing and just stick a Denon AVR in there.
> 
> 
> mk



i do a lot of home theatre installs & all receivers i have done work this way as well

you need an analog audio connection from the source device to zone 2/3

none will down-convert an HDMI audio signal


mark


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/20963309
> 
> 
> i do a lot of home theatre installs & all receivers i have done work this way as well
> 
> you need an analog audio connection from the source device to zone 2/3
> 
> none will down-convert an HDMI audio signal
> 
> 
> mark



Hmmm... Oh well! I'm only interested in the audio, sometimes I have the TV on but I'm doing things all around the house not really watching it. I wanted to use the AVM-20 Zone-2 as a source into the whole house audio system so I could have the sound in all the various rooms I'm going to be in and out of.


mk


----------



## Montekay




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/20961461
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck, and stay away from Denon - 4 out of 5 dentists recommend listening with Anthem over that "other" brand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brian



LOL... Well,... can't argue with that.


Of course this is just the down stairs TV, a 6+ year old rear projection, it's not like it's the home theatre.


Should have known this was a copy protection thing, 99.9% of limitations done in the name of copy protection don't do a damn thing to protect intellectual property, they just create inconveniences for legitimate users. Anyway, I stuck an RCA patch cord on the Sat analog out and now it works.


thanks,

mk


----------



## p.las

Hello.

On the remote, you Can adjust the sub+LFE on the fly. Press ones , you adjust the sub, Press twice, you adjust the LFE.

when i adjust the sub, is it only the redirectet bas from the front and surround, ore is it also the LFE Channel ? .

I funny thing is - i Can adjust the sub up and down, but the LFE i Can only adjust down. so my conclusion is that when i adjust the sub, it is both the sub and the LFE Channel. You then Got the option to turn down the LFE.

Can anybody confirm that?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sub is LFE plus steered bass. LFE is just LFE.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20965317
> 
> 
> Sub is LFE plus steered bass. LFE is just LFE.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks .

So you adjust redirectet bas , whit out adjusting LFE - fancy


----------



## gtx01

October 2010 I reported a problem to Anthem about a problem I'm having whereby certain CD music tracks are always muting at exactly the same point when played via a digital (coax or HDMI) connection to my AVM 50v. This happens with two different players. If I pause/play the disk the music comes back. If I use analogue connections the tracks play fine. This only started happening when I upgraded to v2.10 (I'm now on the latest release).


I've been chasing Anthem for the past year for a resolution but now Andrew says I'm the only person who's reported the problem. I'm sure I've seen people raise a similar problem here but wondered if anyone else has reported it to Anthem?


Thanks


GT


----------



## MACCA350

You're not the only one, I reported the same issue to Anthem 11 months ago.


Cheers


----------



## rovingtravler

What CD(s) are they. Maybe we can all try them and see. If many report the issue they might do something.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20978934
> 
> 
> What CD(s) are they. Maybe we can all try them and see. If many report the issue they might do something.



Just to name a few:


The Story So Far: The Very Best of Rod Stewart [Original recording remastered] (AU version Barcode 9325583013775)

Disc 1

Track 3

Timestamp 00:07


The Very Best of the Doors (AU version barcode 9325583042232)

Disc 1

Track 9

Timestamp 10:00


Cyndi Lauper: True Colors The Best Of (AU version barcode 886975365623)

Disc 2

Track 3

Timestamp 2:23


And here's a BD:

Dear John Blu-Ray, Dolby TrueHD (AU version Barcode 9398710889284)

Timestamp 1:14:39



There's many more CD's that are affected by this, just today the misses played a new one and it happened, but I stopped taking notes a while ago.


cheers


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/20978934
> 
> 
> What CD(s) are they. Maybe we can all try them and see. If many report the issue they might do something.



I haven't been keeping a note of them all. The one that is ingrained in my mind is Glee Vol 2, track 13, Smile (cover of Charlie Chaplin song). This is the missus's disk and I got the usual ear bashing of "why spend this amount of money on something that doesn't work, I bet Sony wouldn't have this problem, etc, etc.


I gave this disk information to Anthem and they said they'd buy a copy and see if they could replicate the problem. Three months later and nothing has happened.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/20979810
> 
> 
> This is the missus's disk and I got the usual ear bashing of "why spend this amount of money on something that doesn't work



And you're not the only one that got that ear full either










Cheers


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/20978626
> 
> 
> October 2010 I reported a problem to Anthem about a problem I'm having whereby certain CD music tracks are always muting at exactly the same point when played via a digital (coax or HDMI) connection to my AVM 50v. This happens with two different players. If I pause/play the disk the music comes back. If I use analogue connections the tracks play fine. This only started happening when I upgraded to v2.10 (I'm now on the latest release).
> 
> 
> I've been chasing Anthem for the past year for a resolution but now Andrew says I'm the only person who's reported the problem. I'm sure I've seen people raise a similar problem here but wondered if anyone else has reported it to Anthem?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> GT



I had this problem too right after the software update with Dolby Volume. Make sure it is totally disabled for your source. That took care of things for me.


----------



## jpoet




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/20978626
> 
> 
> October 2010 I reported a problem to Anthem about a problem I'm having whereby certain CD music tracks are always muting at exactly the same point when played via a digital (coax or HDMI) connection to my AVM 50v. This happens with two different players. If I pause/play the disk the music comes back. If I use analogue connections the tracks play fine. This only started happening when I upgraded to v2.10 (I'm now on the latest release).
> 
> 
> I've been chasing Anthem for the past year for a resolution but now Andrew says I'm the only person who's reported the problem. I'm sure I've seen people raise a similar problem here but wondered if anyone else has reported it to Anthem?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> GT



I rip my CDs to FLAC, and then play them using S/PDIF via a squeezebox. I have had the problem you are referring to, but each time I have been able to fix it, by re-ripping that track. So, I have never reported it to Anthem.


The Anthem does seem to be pickier than other devices. The tracks that cause the problem do play fine, when played right off the computer. That being said, obviously something happened during the rip, that causes a glitch that the Anthem is not able to recover from.


John


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU* /forum/post/20983439
> 
> 
> I had this problem too right after the software update with Dolby Volume. Make sure it is totally disabled for your source. That took care of things for me.



I've double checked and Dolby Volume is disabled for all my sources. Thanks for the suggestion though.


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpoet* /forum/post/20986192
> 
> 
> I rip my CDs to FLAC, and then play them using S/PDIF via a squeezebox. I have had the problem you are referring to, but each time I have been able to fix it, by re-ripping that track. So, I have never reported it to Anthem.
> 
> 
> The Anthem does seem to be pickier than other devices. The tracks that cause the problem do play fine, when played right off the computer. That being said, obviously something happened during the rip, that causes a glitch that the Anthem is not able to recover from.
> 
> 
> John



I'm using a Sonos connected via S/PDIF (coax) and I originally thought there was a problem with the rip so I re-ripped the track and the problem still occurred. I then tried playing the original disk on my Arcam DVD player and the same track stopped in exactly the same spot.


After a lot of experimentation, I eventually connected the Sonos using analogue outputs, i.e. using the Sonos DAC, and everything worked fine. I did the same with the DVD player and again everything worked fine. Everything points to a problem with the Anthem DAC, especially as I didn't have a problem before upgrading to v2.10.


I could of course continue to use the Sonos DAC but there is a noticeable difference in the sound and it kind of defeats the reason for spending a small fortune on the Anthem.


GT


----------



## shn750

Hello. I have the D2 with ARC (not D2v). I understand that the D2(v) will not support 3D material. I'm using a PS3 as my bluray player. To bypass the D2 for video, is it possible to still have the HDMI connected to the D2 and use some setting for "bypassing" video? Or will I need to connect the PS3 HDMI directly to the TV? What should I do about the audio portion? Would the D2 still handle this? This method isn't clean as far as connections go, so I'm wondering what the folks are doing?


Also if you need to completely bypass the D2 in HDMI connections, what are you guys doing for your remote if you are using a Harmony remote? Do you have a separate activity for Watch 3D? How is the D2 configured on your remote for video vs. audio portion for 3D content?


Thanks

Steve


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello. I have the D2 with ARC (not D2v). I understand that the D2(v) will not support 3D material. I'm using a PS3 as my bluray player. To bypass the D2 for video, is it possible to still have the HDMI connected to the D2 and use some setting for "bypassing" video? Or will I need to connect the PS3 HDMI directly to the TV? What should I do about the audio portion? Would the D2 still handle this? This method isn't clean as far as connections go, so I'm wondering what the folks are doing?
> 
> 
> Also if you need to completely bypass the D2 in HDMI connections, what are you guys doing for your remote if you are using a Harmony remote? Do you have a separate activity for Watch 3D? How is the D2 configured on your remote for video vs. audio portion for 3D content?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve



For the PS3 and Bluray, set the D2 to 1080p/24. It will not do any processing with Bluray. For other SD, use the D2, it will do a better job than the PS3.

John


----------



## shn750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/20990014
> 
> 
> For the PS3 and Bluray, set the D2 to 1080p/24. It will not do any processing with Bluray. For other SD, use the D2, it will do a better job than the PS3.
> 
> John



Jayray,


I'm a little confused. Are you saying for all bluray material including 3D, set the D2 to 1080p/24? Will this use the PS3 for all bluray processing and bypass the D2 for video and audio?


Thanks

Steve


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/20990225
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> 
> I'm a little confused. Are you saying for all bluray material including 3D, set the D2 to 1080p/24? Will this use the PS3 for all bluray processing and bypass the D2 for video and audio?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve



Steve,

I'm not Jayray, but I'm pretty sure that the video processor in the D2 will not pass a 3D signal. There is no 'pass thru' setting for the D2.


There is more than one way to skin a cat, though.


1- I see on the MonoPrice website that there is a HDMI splitter that they claim to handle 3D for @ $25. If it works as advertised you should be able to send the signal to both a 3D ready TV and the D2 via HDMI. Theoretically you would get both 3D and lossless audio. I have no experience with these splitters and they may cause handshaking problems that HDMI and the assosiated copy protection are notorious for.


2- You can buy a 3D BluRay player such as the Oppo 93/95 that has 2 HDMI outs. One HDMI can be sent directly to the TV for 3D, and one to the D2 for lossless audio. The Oppo 93 costs $500 (I think Panasonic and some others may have 2 HDMI models for @ $300). Oppo ,and hopefully the other manufacturers, have worked out most of the handshaking issues.


It is possible that you can run a 3D signal thru the D2. I don't have a 3D monitor so I haven't tried. Maybe someone else here has and can verify if it works, but I don't think it will.


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> 
> I'm a little confused. Are you saying for all bluray material including 3D, set the D2 to 1080p/24? Will this use the PS3 for all bluray processing and bypass the D2 for video and audio?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve



No it will bypass the D2 video processor and the PS3 will do nothing as well since at that resolution nothing needs processing. The D2 will not pass 3D.

John


----------



## dbox1080p

Hi guys I am pressed for time and would just love it if some of you experts would answer a few questions I have


I just got a bunch of new martin logans and I want to buy anthem because of ARC


I want an anthem pre for audio only as I dont care about video proc .I was thinking about buying an anthem D1 and wonder .... Is the dacs inside the anthem d1 d2 d2v the same ?


Would these three pre's sound the same if hooked up to analog ?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/20991922
> 
> 
> Hi guys I am pressed for time and would just love it if some of you experts would answer a few questions I have
> 
> 
> I just got a bunch of new martin logans and I want to buy anthem because of ARC
> 
> 
> I want an anthem pre for audio only as I dont care about video proc .I was thinking about buying an anthem D1 and wonder .... Is the dacs inside the anthem d1 d2 d2v the same ?
> 
> *NO !*
> 
> 
> Would these three pre's sound the same if hooked up to analog ?
> 
> *Theoretically yes, if set to Analog Direct. They then act as a pass thru with only the volume control effective.
> 
> If Set at Analog DSP it is not pass thru and the DACs would be effecting the audio signal.
> 
> Remember also, set at Analog Direct ARC is not turned on.*



Stew


----------



## dbox1080p

Thanks for the reply stew as it was very direct


I guess I will just try buying something else from anthem .I have heard that arc is not as good in the receivers so my choice now then would be a avm50 or avm50v or d2


Has anyone here noticed a considerable difference between 1.3 bitstream and 1.1 decoded in the player when using any of the awesome anthem prepro's


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. Thought I would post my thoughts after watching Thor on Bluray (DTS-HD MA 7.1). Now after setting my Oppo BDP-95 to LPCM (which I've had set for awhile now since Macca discovered the issues), I watched this movie tonight and noticed one thing...the sound was very average. Bass was weak and the dialogue was very low and overall sound stage was lacking. Since changing the setting in the Oppo to LPCM I haven't watched a BD with 7.1 until last week with Rambo and now Thor. After watching about 20mins of this movie I decided to try with the Bitstream setting on the Oppo and make the adjustments to the trims on the D2v while the movie was playing. So FL/FR set to +3 and Centre to -3. Holy crap what a difference the sound track came alive and the bass was insane. When I had the Oppo set to LPCM I was watching the movie at -16 (Wanting to turn it up allot more) on the D2v but with Bistream I watched the movie at -19 but boy was it loud and clear.


I read the review here that said that this BD was a powerful track and it is and will be a new reference for bass heads that's for sure:

http://bluray.highdefdigest.com/4368/thor.html 


Now from my reading setting the Oppo to LPCM for DTS-HD MA and for everything should solve the speaker trim levels when playing back 7.1 for both DTS-HD MA and True HD 7.1, but for some reason with the Thor movie the setting for LPCM just didn't sound right and turning it up didn't solve the problem. Changing to Bitstream and making the above adjustments was a whole new experience and reflected what the reviewer said.


Just sharing my thoughts and experience here guys and if anyone else has this movie please test it with both settings on the D2v and report back. In case someone asks the trims were all "0" on the Anthem when I had LPCM set in the Oppo.


----------



## AVfile

Dynamic Range setting in the Oppo?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20992981
> 
> 
> Hi guys. Thought I would post my thoughts after watching Thor on Bluray (DTS-HD MA 7.1). Now after setting my Oppo BDP-95 to LPCM (which I've had set for awhile now since Macca discovered the issues), I watched this movie tonight and noticed one thing...the sound was very average. Bass was weak and the dialogue was very low and overall sound stage was lacking. Since changing the setting in the Oppo to LPCM I haven't watched a BD with 7.1 until last week with Rambo and now Thor. After watching about 20mins of this movie I decided to try with the Bitstream setting on the Oppo and make the adjustments to the trims on the D2v while the movie was playing. So FL/FR set to +3 and Centre to -3. Holy crap what a difference the sound track came alive and the bass was insane. When I had the Oppo set to LPCM I was watching the movie at -16 (Wanting to turn it up allot more) on the D2v but with Bistream I watched the movie at -19 but boy was it loud and clear.
> 
> 
> 
> I read the review here that said that this BD was a powerful track and it is and will be a new reference for bass heads that's for sure:
> 
> http://bluray.highdefdigest.com/4368/thor.html
> 
> 
> Now from my reading setting the Oppo to LPCM for DTS-HD MA and for everything should solve the speaker trim levels when playing back 7.1 for both DTS-HD MA and True HD 7.1, but for some reason with the Thor movie the setting for LPCM just didn't sound right and turning it up didn't solve the problem. Changing to Bitstream and making the above adjustments was a whole new experience and reflected what the reviewer said.
> 
> 
> Just sharing my thoughts and experience here guys and if anyone else has this movie please test it with both settings on the D2v and report back. In case someone asks the trims were all "0" on the Anthem when I had LPCM set in the Oppo.



Recently I have been reading quite a few comments in other forums about there being a LFE filter being used by the studios on the BD versions of new movies even the Hi Rez codecs of Dolby and DTS. Though the filters are not being used on the standard DVD copies meaning the standard DVD copies have no LFE filter and stronger and better bass.


Maybe there are other modifications being done to HiRez audio BD Disks that are not being made public or are still undiscovered such as modifying the distance and time delay and alignment settings that might effect the sound stage. I remember reading and hearing there is a 4db change in some HiREZ audio BDs in the center channel that some critical users are now compensating for by changing their center distance setting.

Much still needs to be disclosed by the studios why they are doing this to the BD disks.


.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/20905291
> 
> 
> It appears to be simpler than that: Just a bug in the way the ARC application formats those charts.
> 
> 
> As best we've been able to tell, folks who do the preliminary setup for 75dB actually do get a 75dB solution despite the scale value displayed on the charts. That is, real content, played at set levels for Main Volume using such an ARC solution produces output consistent with a 75dB solution.
> 
> 
> What's puzzling is that this charting issue doesn't happen for everyone, and sometimes doesn't happen for the same user from run to run. And nobody has been able to figure out what makes the difference.
> 
> 
> Anyway, if it really IS just a formatting error for the charts -- i.e., the curves are correct, but the displayed volume scale value is off -- then you can just ignore the numeric value and concentrate on whether the shape of the curves looks good.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> One piece of evidence as to this being just a chart formatting error is that the Quick Measure charts seem to be displayed properly. The curve shown by Quick Measure is basically comparable to the red Measured curve on the main ARC charts. If Quick Measure is showing it at a different level than the main ARC charts are showing it, then one of the two charts must be wrong.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ARC is already biased towards producing a 75dB solution. For many folks, you'll just get that ANYWAY even if you don't do the preliminary setup. But if your speakers vary too much in their output, or are unusually strong or weak on the whole for a given level of signal, then ARC may have to shift the solution to stay within the limits of the trims it has to work with. The point of doing the preliminary setup is to get the test level at roughly 75dB to begin with (which means ARC can hear and Measure what it needs to) and to insure the volume setting on the subwoofer is not so out of whack with what the main speakers are producing that ARC has to shift things to get a match between them. That eliminates the two most likely reasons ARC might have trouble making the solution work at 75dB.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> There is another Setup setting which has to do with the Maximum allowed value for Main Volume (to protect things in case the kids fiddle with the volume knob or whatever). That defaults to +10dB. If you lower that too much, then that will *ALSO* cap the maximum volume trims ARC can apply -- which means ARC may have to shift the solution downward.
> 
> --Bob



I'm VERY glad I read posts addressing this. I did a recalibration, and I was puzzled at why my chart readings were so low--60dB. Yet, when I actually play material, it's anything but low--Master and Commander is EXTREMELY loud at a volume setting of -18 dB.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/20993882
> 
> 
> I'm VERY glad I read posts addressing this. I did a recalibration, and I was puzzled at why my chart readings were so low--60dB. Yet, when I actually play material, it's anything but low--Master and Commander is EXTREMELY loud at a volume setting of -18 dB.



Can you also post your targets ?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Dynamic Range setting in the Oppo?



No mate it's turned off. Looking forward to others testing Thor and see if they also have the same issue as me. Without a doubt the difference was huge and no amount of turning up the volume with the LPCM setting was going to change the fact, everything sounded flat and lifeless and had me scratching my head after reading the glowing reviews of the disc. I changed nothing but the audio output setting from LPCM to Bitstream (in the Oppo) and making the speaker trim adjustments on the D2v.


----------



## MACCA350

Regarding the Star Wars bitstreaming issues that seem to be popping up.


I bitstreamed ep I and had no issues so thought all was good and decided to go back to decoding in the player for ep II-V (which went without issues).


Thought I'd bitstream ep VI from OPPO 83 to D2v. This caused the audio to cut out at about 12min(and didn't come back, video keeps going and the D2v display shows it's not receiving audio signal) so I switched back to decoding in the player and it played through the same point without issue.


Cheers


----------



## dlynch34

if I have both files needed for arc and when I run arc it says unable to find microphone am I having a microphone failure?


----------



## gtimbers

My apologies for changing the direction. I tried a search and was unsuccessful. I have a D2 (v1.33) and it has a problem with SACD multichannel play back. If the disc does not have a LFE channel (4.0, or 5.0) the Anthem will consider it to be stereo. I have my Oppo output LPCM. The problem is specific to the Anthem as I have tried many receivers and other processors. I complained to Anthem over a year ago and they said to live with it.

I now find that current BluRays that are recorded as 5.0 exhibit the same problem. I can input either bit stream or LPCM and the Anthem considers the source to be stereo. Even though the D2 is discontinued, I think this problem should be rectified as it is a relatively easy flag recognition thing. Do I have the latest software? (1.33) I can't find anything on the site for the D2 any longer. Can anyone confirm that the D2v will properly decode recordings of all types? (5.1, 5.0, 4.0)

Thanks in advance for any help. I would hate to have to get rid of this unit as it is so outstanding in most ways. Regards, Greg


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/21001669
> 
> 
> if I have both files needed for arc and when I run arc it says unable to find microphone am I having a microphone failure?



Using My Computer or Windows Explorer check that your Anthem Folder and the files inside look exactly like this with the two files within the Anthem Room Correction Folder. The .cal and the .file should have your unit serial number and microphone number as the example I have posted.

Also you might try a different USB port or confirm you are using a Keyspan USB to RS232 adapter and the D2 sees the connection.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtimbers* /forum/post/21001744
> 
> 
> My apologies for changing the direction. I tried a search and was unsuccessful. I have a D2 (v1.33) and it has a problem with SACD multichannel play back. If the disc does not have a LFE channel (4.0, or 5.0) the Anthem will consider it to be stereo. I have my Oppo output LPCM. The problem is specific to the Anthem as I have tried many receivers and other processors. I complained to Anthem over a year ago and they said to live with it.
> 
> I now find that current BluRays that are recorded as 5.0 exhibit the same problem. I can input either bit stream or LPCM and the Anthem considers the source to be stereo. Even though the D2 is discontinued, I think this problem should be rectified as it is a relatively easy flag recognition thing. Do I have the latest software? (1.33) I can't find anything on the site for the D2 any longer. Can anyone confirm that the D2v will properly decode recordings of all types? (5.1, 5.0, 4.0)
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help. I would hate to have to get rid of this unit as it is so outstanding in most ways. Regards, Greg



I did not know there were any 4.0 or 5.0 disks.

When I had my D2 it had no problems with LPCM as the BD player was decoding the audio and the D2 was acting as a pass thru. Check to be sure you have a digital input selected for the BD player and the D2 shows it is receiving a digital audio

You might want to contact Anthem support again and ask for the beta software page and password as there is a beta 1.47f for the D2 which I was using that corrected several problems. The D2 is now not being produced but is on the Anthem site. Look under the discontinued archive listing.


----------



## xMEATx

Did anyone else notice a beta v2.11c on the support page? Installed it without incident, but have not noticed anything different.


----------



## xMEATx

^^^ I'm sorry, it's on the password protected support page.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/21001669
> 
> 
> if I have both files needed for arc and when I run arc it says unable to find microphone am I having a microphone failure?



If you have the files in your folder like Stew showed in his post, but you still are getting the 'unable to find microphone' you might be having the same problem I had with the new ARC the first time I used it.

I think it started with 3.0 (but might have been earlier) that when ARC is starting up it will say it found your unit and give the serial #.

Then a window will pop up showing your mic serial# with an "OK" button below. If you hit "OK" it will give you the 'can't find mic' message.

You need to point your cursor to the line in the pop up box where your mic serial# is listed and select it (it will highlight it in blue) and then select the "OK" button.

I guess this is for installers or users that may have have more than one anthem/mic combo loaded in their computer.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21003707
> 
> 
> If you have the files in your folder like Stew showed in his post, but you still are getting the 'unable to find microphone' you might be having the same problem I had with the new ARC the first time I used it.
> 
> I think it started with 3.0 (but might have been earlier) that when ARC is starting up it will say it found your unit and give the serial #.
> 
> Then a window will pop up showing your mic serial# with an "OK" button below. If you hit "OK" it will give you the 'can't find mic' message.
> 
> You need to point your cursor to the line in the pop up box where your mic serial# is listed and select it (it will highlight it in blue) and then select the "OK" button.
> 
> I guess this is for installers or users that may have have more than one anthem/mic combo loaded in their computer.
> 
> 
> Tom



Good catch Tom

I forgot that one. I did exactly that, did not highlight the microphone number.

I had two numbers when I upgraded to the D2v from the D2. After I removed the D2 microphone information I neglected to select the microphone the first time thru ARC.

.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21002339
> 
> 
> I did not know there were any 4.0 or 5.0 disks.
> 
> ..



The one that I know was a remix of Dark Side of the Moon from the original tape in quadraphonic by Alan Parson. It is not playable with a D2 unless you switch to analog. I don't know of any new recording that is just 4.0 or 5.0.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did anyone else notice a beta v2.11c on the support page? Installed it without incident, but have not noticed anything different.



I'm still running 2.10 so maybe it's time to upgrade. How stable is 2.11 generally - no worse than 2.10?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Loaded "Test" firmware V2.11c. Re-Uploaded my current ARC setup "just in case".


Did some basic sanity checks -- no problems detected.


I don't see any obvious difference in HDMI handshaking, but I wasn't having any significant problems beforehand, so I'm not sure I'd expect to see anything.


About the only change I've noticed so far is that if you cycle through the Select button displays it now seems to update the on-screen text one line at a time, so you see a kind of two-step transition for each new display.


I did a quick check of HDMI Bitstream for DTS-HD MA (using the AIX Channel ID test track), and it still seems to be the case that you need to use the "temporary" level adjustments to raise Fronts by +3dB and also lower Center by -3dB to get the levels in proper balance for that Bitstream format.


-------------------------------------------------------------


Release Notes for changes since the current, "official" V2.10 firmware now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.11c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Changed HDMI/HDCP for faster switching, less flicker, improved dual display support.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed analog video issues.
> 
> 
> Note: Addition of CEC is not complete. Disabling it in all connected devices is recommended.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.11 release:
> 
> 
> 1. Adjusted HDMI drive impedance to prevent audio dropouts in some situations.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.10c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Changed Dolby Volume default to Off and Dolby Volume Leveler to Low.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.10b beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Further muting fixes, for a certain music server.



As always, "Test" firmware is not finished yet, so it may come with some unpleasant surprises. If so, you may need to roll back to prior firmware. *Note in particular, that apparently Anthem is working on adding HDMI CEC control, but that is not working yet. So you need to make sure you have CEC features turned off in your HDMI Source and Display devices.*


I did not spot any new Menu entries that might be related to the addition of CEC features.


I did have one problem. I accidentally changed sources while the Setup menu was being displayed. The Source I changed to was not powered on. This apparently resulted in a crash of the video board -- loss of video output to the display that could not be recovered by forcing a new HDMI handshake. I had to power cycle the D2v to get video output back. HDMI audio input was still good so the basic HDMI handshaking stuff and the audio decoding path were still working. I suspect the video processor itself crashed. Note that since Setup was being displayed, a Source change like this would have resulted in a new HDMI handshake, but the video input itself would remain the internally generated S-video source which produces the Setup menu display. So this is fundamentally different from changing Sources during normal use -- and thus a possible generator of bugs. So far, I've not found any problems changing between Sources in normal use.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*PROBLEM WITH "TEST" V2.11c: Loss of Surround Audio (Which Fixed Itself!)*


Something nasty is going on in my installation of the "test" V2.11c firmware in my D2v. Basically I lost the Side Surround speakers in my 5.1 setup.


Kinda -- sorta.


Here are the symptoms during the failure:


1) I first noticed that PLIIx was not producing output in the surrounds when playing a DD2.0 HDMI Bitstream track. Pressing Select multiple times showed that only L/C/R/Sub were active for output!


2) Next I found that I *COULD* get output on all the speakers, including the two surrounds, using All Mono, or All Stereo mode! Indeed the Select audio output display now also showed LS/RS active. So the amps/speakers and wiring were all good. Anthem Logic Music and Anthem Logic Cinema also produced output on the surrounds. But *NONE* of the PLIIx modes nor the NEO:6 mode would do so.


3) Next I tried the DD 5.1 AIX Channel ID test track and discovered that there was no output to LS/RS, *EVEN THOUGH* the Select audio output display said LS/RS were active. A 5.1 LPCM track had the same result. So the failure here is *NOT* simply a failure of the surround audio mode processing. NOTE: The Surround INPUT channels WERE showing active in the Select display during these 5.1 tracks.


4) Next I discovered that the Manual Level Calibration Test Tones *ALSO* would not produce output on LS/RS! Mind you it was still the case that All Mono, All Stereo, and the two Anthem Logic modes could get output to them just fine.


5) I then power cycled, and tried the Level Calibration Test Tones again, and this time NONE of the speakers would produce Test Tone output!


6) The next step would have been to Reset Factory Defaults, but I tried power cycling one more time, and -- Voila! -- everything seems to be working properly again.


I've no idea why.


And I haven't figured out a way to make it fail again. Grrrr!


Hopefully an Anthem engineer can take the combo of symptoms above and make some sense of them, because I sure can't! If I WANTED to make it fail this way, I don't know how I'd accomplish it.


NOTE: It is evidently not a Trigger failure for the surround amps, as at least in the case of the DD2.0 input, the Select audio output display was actually showing that LS/RS were *NOT* active for output. It's as if the D2v forgot I had Side Surround speakers enabled -- for a while. But then, I could still get All Mono and All Stereo audio to them. Weird.


I'll pass this on to Anthem.


For you folks trying V2.11c, keep an eye on the Select Audio Output display (press Select multiple times until it shows which speakers are active for output), and check that your Surround speakers are indeed showing as active when they should be. Also be alert that you may not actually be getting audio from the Surrounds even though they show as active.

*As I said, this is a pretty nasty sort of failure, so there's a cookie available for anyone who can figure out a repeatable way to reproduce this.*

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21004895
> 
> 
> I did a quick check of HDMI Bitstream for DTS-HD MA (using the AIX Channel ID test track), and it still seems to be the case that you need to use the "temporary" level adjustments to raise Fronts by +3dB and also lower Center by -3dB to get the levels in proper balance for that Bitstream format.



Hey Bob, the other day I decided to use the "temporary" level adjustments while comparing bitstreaming Star Wars DTS-HDMA 6.1 to decoding in the OPPO 83 which output as LPCM 7.1. I thought the temp level settings were signal based but the adjustment applied to both signals so I couldn't do a quick switch and listen as I had to keep making the level adjustment change each time.


Btw, any idea why the OPPO is outputting HDMA 6.1 as 7.1 when it's decoding?

Or is this a D2v display error? Actually the D2v wasn't engaging PLIIx to expand to 7.1 so I'm pretty sure the OPPO was outputting 7.1.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21005055
> 
> 
> Hey Bob, the other day I decided to use the "temporary" level adjustments while comparing bitstreaming Star Wars DTS-HDMA 6.1 to decoding in the OPPO 83 which output as LPCM 7.1. I thought the temp level settings were signal based but the adjustment applied to both signals so I couldn't do a quick switch and listen as I had to keep making the level adjustment change each time.
> 
> 
> Btw, any idea why the OPPO is outputting HDMA 6.1 as 7.1 when it's decoding?
> 
> Or is this a D2v display error? Actually the D2v wasn't engaging PLIIx to expand to 7.1 so I'm pretty sure the OPPO was outputting 7.1.
> 
> 
> Cheers



I'm not seeing that using the AIX tracks. I'll have to wait for my next rental Star Wars disc to arrive to try it with the funky 6.1 tracks on those.


Be sure the audio is actually playing and that the D2v's Select displays have recognized the new format *BEFORE* you try to view or change any of the temporary level settings for that format. Otherwise you may be seeing values displayed for the PRIOR audio format. I.e., press Select a few times until you see the input audio format displayed. Then view/change your temporary level settings.


As I say, I just tried that on AIX and the adjustment for 7.1 DTS-HD MA does not affect 7.1 LPCM, 7.1 TrueHD or the other, non-DTS-HD MA tracks.


When I played my last Star Wars disc, I confirmed that the temporary level change I had made for 7.1 DTS-HD MA did indeed also get applied to 6.1 DTS-HD MA, as it should.


-----------------------------


I don't believe the D2v accept 6.1 LPCM, just as it doesn't accept 1.0 LPCM. So the handshake has the Oppo send 7.1 LPCM in the first case and 2.0 LPCM in the second case. The D2v accepts 6.1 and 1.0 Bitstream audio, though.


I'm pretty sure LPCM from the Oppo is sending the Center-Rear content of the 6.1 track to both Left-Rear and Right-Rear equally (attenuated a bit to account for using two speakers) but I can't confirm that in my 5.1 setup.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21005085
> 
> 
> I'm not seeing that using the AIX tracks. I'll have to wait for my next rental Star Wars disc to arrive to try it with the funky 6.1 tracks on those.
> 
> 
> Be sure the audio is actually playing and that the D2v's Select displays have recognized the new format *BEFORE* you try to view or change any of the temporary level settings for that format. Otherwise you may be seeing values displayed for the PRIOR audio format. I.e., press Select a few times until you see the input audio format displayed. Then view/change your temporary level settings.
> 
> 
> As I say, I just tried that on AIX and the adjustment for 7.1 DTS-HD MA does not affect 7.1 LPCM, 7.1 TrueHD or the other, non-DTS-HD MA tracks.
> 
> 
> When I played my last Star Wars disc, I confirmed that the temporary level change I had made for 7.1 DTS-HD MA did indeed also get applied to 6.1 DTS-HD MA, as it should.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------



I didn't spend much time on it so I'll have a thorough look into it later and let you know. Btw I'm on fw v2.10 iirc.


Did you have any issues bitstreaming any Star Wars BD's or have you been decoding in the player? See my earlier post about ep VI



> Quote:
> I don't believe the D2v accept 6.1 LPCM, just as it doesn't accept 1.0 LPCM. So the handshake has the Oppo send 7.1 LPCM in the first case and 2.0 LPCM in the second case. The D2v accepts 6.1 and 1.0 Bitstream audio, though.
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure LPCM from the Oppo is sending the Center-Rear content of the 6.1 track to both Left-Rear and Right-Rear equally (attenuated a bit to account for using two speakers) but I can't confirm that in my 5.1 setup.
> 
> --Bob



That's unfortunate, I'd much prefer to have PLIIx mix the rears from 6.1 to 7.1 than a simple copy of the center rear into the 7th channel. If that's why the OPPO is doing I'd even prefer it to down mix to 5.1 and let the D2v's PLIIx expand to 7.1 from there.........I have set the OPPO to 5.1 output but that doesn't seem to affect HDMI LPCM output, only analog output.


Any opinion on this?


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Oppo down-mix only alters its multi-channel analog outputs.


The output (including down-mixing) on HDMI is forced by the handshake.


What would you expect PLIIx to do differently raising 6.1 to 7.1? All that's involved is creating a phantom Center Rear speaker out of the two real Rear speakers.


So far I've tried Bitstream output of Episodes IV and III without problems. Episode VI will be the next one I try.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well I've lost the Surround speakers again in V2.11c. I've no idea what triggered it, and now I can't reproduce whatever I did the first time that cured it.


It's the same symptoms as before: ALL Mono, ALL Stereo, and the two Anthem Logic modes can produce output on LS/RS. The PLIIx modes, NEO:6, and NONE processing (of 5.1 input) all fail to produce output on LS/RS.


I've tried turning off ARC -- no help. I've tried switching to Music bass management -- no help. I've tried Resetting Factory Defaults and reloading my settings from Installer (which holds the stuff prior to the V2.11c install) -- no help. I've tried changing the Speaker Configuration to remove and re-enable the Side Surrounds, and also to enable Rear Surrounds (which I don't actually have). No help for either of those.


And power cycling isn't fixing it. I've also tried powering up with different audio content active on the initial Source at power up to see if that might be what fixed it last time. No help.


I suspect I'll have to revert to V2.11 and what until Anthem tackles this one.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*HA! I THINK I'VE FOUND IT!*


I think I've found what makes the Surround speakers work or fail.


If the original Source, i.e., whatever's selected at power up of the D2v, happens to be playing 2.0 audio as you power up *AND* if Anthem Logic - Cinema is the Mode Preset for 2.0 input, then the Surround speakers will work! You can now change the 2.0 content to PLIIx processing and the Surround speakers continue to work, or you can switch to 5.1 content (NONE processing) and the Surround speakers continue to work.


BUT if the original Source selected at power up happens to be playing 5.1 content, or if it is playing 2.0 content but with PLIIx-Movie as the Mode Preset, then the Surrounds will NOT work, from then on, in the fashion previously described. I.e., you CAN get audio from them with ALL Mono, ALL Stereo, or either Anthem Logic mode, but you CAN'T get audio from them with any PLIIx mode, the NEO:6 mode or NONE processing of 5.1 content. Once in this state, I've found no way out of it except to power cycle under the conditions described in the previous paragraph.


This appears to be repeatable. It doesn't matter whether the initial audio input at power up is HDMI or Optical Digital. So far I've only tested it with DD2.0 audio as the initial audio.


----------------------------------------------


In the course of testing this, it also looks like the new HDMI code is having trouble with the Oppo BDP-93 and also with my Comcast DVR. The symptoms are brief glitches after the handshake has apparently worked, or green screen (HDCP failure) from the Comcast box, or YCbCr/RGB confusion from the Oppo (shocking pink video).

*At this point I think I'm going to declare V2.11c no good, and revert back to V2.11.*


----------------------------------------


ETA: Whee! I got a cookie!

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21005138
> 
> 
> The Oppo down-mix only alters its multi-channel analog outputs.
> 
> 
> The output (including down-mixing) on HDMI is forced by the handshake.



So any setting to force 5.1 instead of 7.1 when playing 6.1?

More importantly though, any idea if they plan to allow mono and 6.1 LPCM input?



> Quote:
> What would you expect PLIIx to do differently raising 6.1 to 7.1? All that's involved is creating a phantom Center Rear speaker out of the two real Rear speakers.



PLIIx does not simply copy the 6th channel to the 7th, it uses the information in the 3 rear channels to create desecrate content in the 2 rear channels for 7.1(ie the 2 rears playback in stereo not mono) Not a major difference but one that I prefer.



> Quote:
> So far I've tried Bitstream output of Episodes IV and III without problems. Episode VI will be the next one I try.
> 
> --Bob



Let me know how it goes


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21005171
> 
> *At this point I think I'm going to declare V2.11c no good, and revert back to V2.11.*
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: Whee! I got a cookie!
> 
> --Bob



And you deserve it










Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Reverted back to V2.11 firmware and re-Uploaded my current ARC solution yet again.


It looks like everything is back to "normal".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21005204
> 
> 
> So any setting to force 5.1 instead of 7.1 when playing 6.1?
> 
> More importantly though, any idea if they plan to allow mono and 6.1 LPCM input?
> 
> 
> 
> PLIIx does not simply copy the 6th channel to the 7th, it uses the information in the 3 rear channels to create desecrate content in the 2 rear channels for 7.1(ie the 2 rears playback in stereo not mono) Not a major difference but one that I prefer.
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know how it goes
> 
> 
> Cheers



You can't force 5.1 -- short of changing to an original D2.


I don't really know how Oppo turns the Center-Rear into Left-Rear and Right-Rear. But personally, pulling Side surround content into the Rears doesn't strike me as all that great an idea.


I don't know what the limitation is on the D2v's handling of the unusual LPCM input configurations.

--Bob


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Reverted back to V2.11 firmware and re-Uploaded my current ARC solution yet again.
> 
> 
> It looks like everything is back to "normal".
> 
> --Bob



I think I'm going back to an earlier firmware, but I came from v2.10. Should I try v2.11, did it improve on handshakes over v2.10? Is it necessary to upload ARC settings after firmware changes? I thought they were stored in user settings.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21005171
> 
> *HA! I THINK I'VE FOUND IT!*
> 
> 
> I think I've found what makes the Surround speakers work or fail.
> 
> 
> If the original Source, i.e., whatever's selected at power up of the D2v, happens to be playing 2.0 audio as you power up *AND* if Anthem Logic - Cinema is the Mode Preset for 2.0 input, then the Surround speakers will work! You can now change the 2.0 content to PLIIx processing and the Surround speakers continue to work, or you can switch to 5.1 content (NONE processing) and the Surround speakers continue to work.
> 
> 
> BUT if the original Source selected at power up happens to be playing 5.1 content, or if it is playing 2.0 content but with PLIIx-Movie as the Mode Preset, then the Surrounds will NOT work, from then on, in the fashion previously described. I.e., you CAN get audio from them with ALL Mono, ALL Stereo, or either Anthem Logic mode, but you CAN'T get audio from them with any PLIIx mode, the NEO:6 mode or NONE processing of 5.1 content. Once in this state, I've found no way out of it except to power cycle under the conditions described in the previous paragraph.
> 
> 
> This appears to be repeatable. It doesn't matter whether the initial audio input at power up is HDMI or Optical Digital. So far I've only tested it with DD2.0 audio as the initial audio.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In the course of testing this, it also looks like the new HDMI code is having trouble with the Oppo BDP-93 and also with my Comcast DVR. The symptoms are brief glitches after the handshake has apparently worked, or green screen (HDCP failure) from the Comcast box, or YCbCr/RGB confusion from the Oppo (shocking pink video).
> 
> *At this point I think I'm going to declare V2.11c no good, and revert back to V2.11.*
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: Whee! I got a cookie!
> 
> --Bob




Wow, thanks for all your work on this one. Wonder how they missed this before releasing it?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/21005362
> 
> 
> I think I'm going back to an earlier firmware, but I came from v2.10. Should I try v2.11, did it improve on handshakes over v2.10? Is it necessary to upload ARC settings after firmware changes? I thought they were stored in user settings.



There are two parts to the ARC Upload. First are the Setup menu changes. Those can be saved with all your other Setup menu settings in User and/or Installer settings. You have to Reload Factory Defaults prior to doing a firmware install, so you'll want to save things in User or Installer so you can Reload from one of them AFTER the firmware install.


The other part of the ARC Upload is the Room Correction Parameters. Those are stored in a special memory that you can not see. They are supposed to be pretty bullet proof in there. They are not affected by doing a Reload Factory Defaults for example. Nor are they supposed to be affected by a firmware install. The only way to alter them is to do a new ARC Upload or to do an Erase from the ARC application.


So odds are you'll be fine if you just assume the Room Correction Parameters are still good, and just do the normal Reload from User or Installer settings after the firmware install to get the Setup settings restored as well.


---------------------------------------


That said, since I've got the cable hooked up anyway, my practice has always been to redo my latest ARC Upload after a firmware install, "just in case".


----------------------------------------


I've been on V2.11 since it came out as a "test". It's been too long, though, so I don't really recall what it changed compared to V2.10. I still, every now and again, have to power cycle the D2v because I don't get audio when I power up. But that's fairly rare. And of course there are still some long-standing bugs such as the DTS-HD MA speaker levels issue -- but that's also in V2.10.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/21005429
> 
> 
> Wow, thanks for all your work on this one. Wonder how they missed this before releasing it?



Like I said above, sometimes test releases aren't "done". Sometimes they are put out so that some customer can check whether a particular problem is really fixed, but additional work is necessary before they are ready for prime time.


It's also possible that there's something more complex going on here than the simple failure scenario I've described.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21005332
> 
> 
> You can't force 5.1 -- short of changing to an original D2.
> 
> 
> I don't really know how Oppo turns the Center-Rear into Left-Rear and Right-Rear. But personally, pulling Side surround content into the Rears doesn't strike me as all that great an idea.



IMHO it's the best way to do it, the rears in 7.1 sit between the surrounds and where the center back would be in a 6.1 setup, so their content should be a mix of the center and surrounds.

Dolby's PLIIx outputs stereo rears for 7.1 setups with both 5.1 & 6.1(even 2ch) content but DTS's NEO:6 does not, it produces a mono rear signal for both rears.


There's a 5.1 audio test track on AVIA which has a ball of sound which slowly moves 360 degrees around the listener, starting in the left speaker and smoothly transitioning through all others(phantom imaging between speakers) till it completes the circle a few times. This track makes it simple to hear how the different processing techniques deal with the additional channel processing.


With PLIIx you can hear the ball of sound move subsequently through all 4 surrounds as it circles you.

With NEO:6 it moves from right surround to both rears and treats them as one channel then to the left surround.


Both methods work but NEO:6 just sound like you've got one really wide speaker behind you where as PLIIx creates, IMHO, better imaging giving a more cohesive rear stage. It does it so well that 5.1 tracks with decent surround speaker usage sound as though they were in fact a discrete 7.1 mix, which is why I use PLIIx for all 2/5.1/6.1 movies.


The information is in the track, similar to the way center channel information is in stereo mixes in the form of phase correlated signals(phantom center), it's just a matter of deciding what to do with it.........Dolby chose one path while DTS chose another.


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/21005429
> 
> 
> Wow, thanks for all your work on this one. Wonder how they missed this before releasing it?



To expand on Bob's response, 2.11 and 2.11c are released on a password protected 'secret' site for beta testing. They are not official releases, the latest official release is v2.10.


I don't even have a link or password to access these beta releases, even though I've been 'beta testing' the D2v for over a year now







I did ask through Anthem Australia but didn't get an answer..........probably missed it in all my data










Cheers


----------



## MACCA350

Actually I recall DTS's suggested speaker layout use to put the 2 rears only a foot or so apart from the back center, though their current layouts are in line with Dolby's wider separation between the rears(135-150 degrees).

Given that (iirc) older DTS layout NEO:6 processing seems reasonable, for that particular layout, but I've never set mine up that way so I can't really comment.


I've only ever set mine up as per the Dolby spec(which is now DTS's "7.1 Standard" setup) and I prefer PLIIx over NEO:6


Cheers


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21005171
> 
> 
> I think I've found what makes the Surround speakers work or fail.
> 
> 
> If the original Source, i.e., whatever's selected at power up of the D2v, happens to be playing 2.0 audio as you power up ...



What happens if you follow the Anthem rules and power-up the preamp first, and wait for it to fully start before turning on your source?


I'm sure Anthem will fix it, but for now they will say turn on the preamp first (as they probably do in their test procedures).


Good work though, you saved us a lot of time!


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21005542
> 
> 
> I've been on V2.11 since it came out as a "test". It's been too long, though, so I don't really recall what it changed compared to V2.10. I still, every now and again, have to power cycle the D2v because I don't get audio when I power up. But that's fairly rare. And of course there are still some long-standing bugs such as the DTS-HD MA speaker levels issue -- but that's also in V2.10.
> 
> --Bob



So far I've not heard of any bugs in 2.11 that are not present in 2.10, so 2.11 could be the way to go if you are having HDMI issues with 2.10.


On the flip side, if you're still at 2.10 and happy, no need to upgrade.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> What happens if you follow the Anthem rules and power-up the preamp first, and wait for it to fully start before turning on your source?
> 
> 
> I'm sure Anthem will fix it, but for now they will say turn on the preamp first (as they probably do in their test procedures).
> 
> 
> Good work though, you saved us a lot of time!



Didn't help. It's not an issue of power on order.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21004895
> 
> 
> Loaded "Test" firmware V2.11c.
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> About the only change I've noticed so far is that if you cycle through the Select button displays it now seems to update the on-screen text one line at a time, so you see a kind of two-step transition for each new display.



Hmmm... Maybe they've been working on the display update bug (the one where it fails to update the display on some format changes until you press a button).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In fact it's not even an issue of HDMI. The same problem happens if the initial audio source is Optical Digital.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So any setting to force 5.1 instead of 7.1 when playing 6.1?
> 
> More importantly though, any idea if they plan to allow mono and 6.1 LPCM input?
> 
> 
> PLIIx does not simply copy the 6th channel to the 7th, it uses the information in the 3 rear channels to create desecrate content in the 2 rear channels for 7.1(ie the 2 rears playback in stereo not mono) Not a major difference but one that I prefer.
> 
> 
> Let me know how it goes
> 
> 
> Cheers



I got the same thing with Star Wars, oppo 83 shows 6.1, D2v shows 7.1 with no PLIIx engaged. This with LPCM selected in the oppo.

John


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21005860
> 
> 
> I got the same thing with Star Wars, oppo 83 shows 6.1, D2v shows 7.1 with no PLIIx engaged. This with LPCM selected in the oppo.
> 
> John



I only noticed this issue now as I've only recently decided to let the OPPO do all the decoding due to the D2v's level issues........now were damned if we do and damned if we don't










Could you check if your audio drops out while bitstreaming around 12min into ep VI?


Cheers


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I only noticed this issue now as I've only recently decided to let the OPPO do all the decoding due to the D2v's level issues........now were damned if we do and damned if we don't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you check if your audio drops out while bitstreaming around 12min into ep VI?
> 
> 
> Cheers



I'll try sometime today.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try sometime today.
> 
> John



Tried from 10:00-14:00 on Episode VI. No dropout using bitstreaming.

John


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21006554
> 
> 
> Tried from 10:00-14:00 on Episode VI. No dropout using bitstreaming.
> 
> John



Thanks for checking it out










Interesting, what fw are you running on the D2v?

I'm on v2.10



Cheers


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting, what fw are you running on the D2v?
> 
> I'm on v2.10
> 
> 
> Cheers



2.11b. so far no issues.

John


----------



## Michael_V

I am having trouble upgrading the firmware in my AVM50v from 2.08 to 2.10. I am using the Keyspan USB to serial adaptor recommended here. I am using the same Windows XP laptop I use for ARC without a hitch. Every time I try to upgrade the firmware, I get this error message: OKI FLASH will not enter block un-protected state.


My port settings are set to:


BAUD RATE: 19,200

Stop Bits: 2

Data Bits: 8

Flow Control: None

Parity: None

COM: 5


Even though I always get the error message and it never completes the install, my Anthem indicates it is now running FW 2.10. However, my audio is now buggy, with lots of random pops and crackles or sometimes no sound at all. This is just since attempting the firmware upgrade. Can anyone help? I don't want to have to send it back to Anthem if I don't have to!


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/21009024
> 
> 
> I am having trouble upgrading the firmware in my AVM50v from 2.08 to 2.10. I am using the Keyspan USB to serial adaptor recommended here. I am using the same Windows XP laptop I use for ARC without a hitch. Every time I try to upgrade the firmware, I get this error message: OKI FLASH will not enter block un-protected state.
> 
> 
> My port settings are set to:
> 
> 
> BAUD RATE: 19,200
> 
> Stop Bits: 2
> 
> Data Bits: 8
> 
> Flow Control: None
> 
> Parity: None
> 
> COM: 5
> 
> 
> Even though I always get the error message and it never completes the install, my Anthem indicates it is now running FW 2.10. However, my audio is now buggy, with lots of random pops and crackles or sometimes no sound at all. This is just since attempting the firmware upgrade. Can anyone help? I don't want to have to send it back to Anthem if I don't have to!



I don't know if this will help, but ever since I started turning off the firewall on my computer during ARC runs and firmware upgrades things seem to work much better. No glitches. Just remember to turn it back on after the upgrade.


Hope it helps,


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael_V* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am having trouble upgrading the firmware in my AVM50v from 2.08 to 2.10. I am using the Keyspan USB to serial adaptor recommended here. I am using the same Windows XP laptop I use for ARC without a hitch. Every time I try to upgrade the firmware, I get this error message: OKI FLASH will not enter block un-protected state.
> 
> 
> My port settings are set to:
> 
> 
> BAUD RATE: 19,200
> 
> Stop Bits: 2
> 
> Data Bits: 8
> 
> Flow Control: None
> 
> Parity: None
> 
> COM: 5
> 
> 
> Even though I always get the error message and it never completes the install, my Anthem indicates it is now running FW 2.10. However, my audio is now buggy, with lots of random pops and crackles or sometimes no sound at all. This is just since attempting the firmware upgrade. Can anyone help? I don't want to have to send it back to Anthem if I don't have to!



Typically the cure for this is to run the Flash Eraser from your Windows PC, and then redo the firmware install.


NOTE: You will lose your User and Installer memories. So back up your Setup and Video Source Adjust settings to a PC file and/or write them down for manual replacement afterwards. You will also need to re-Upload your ARC file.


Call Anthem tech support for access to the Flash Eraser utility, and for assistance.

--Bob


----------



## gonzalc3

Bob


Can you explain about the DTS HD MA bitstream issue? You mention something that it requires some leveling between the fronts and the center..


Thanks,


C


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3* /forum/post/21009433
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Can you explain about the DTS HD MA bitstream issue? You mention something that it requires some leveling between the fronts and the center..
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> C



There appears to be bug in the decoding of DTS-HD MA which results in LF/RF being a bit low.


While playing a DTS-HD MA Bitstream, use the "temporary" level adjustment buttons on the remote to RAISE "Fronts" +3dB and LOWER "Center" -3dB (to compensate for the fact that these controls include Center as part of Fronts).


Do this once and forget about it. It will only kick in when playing DTS-HD MA Bitstreams. Be sure this audio is playing before you make these adjustments.


NOTE: The "temporary" adjustments are not saved in User/Installer. So if you Reset Factory Defaults and then Load from User or Installer you will need to manually re-establish the "temporary" level adjustments.


If you use LPCM input (decoding in the player), no adjustment is necessary, even when playing a DTS-HD MA track.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A follow up on some Star Wars questions from above:


I played my rental copy of "Star Wars: Episode VI" on the Oppo 93 using the latest (0917) Official firmware in the player and the V2.11 firmware in the D2v.


1) I found no problem with the "temporary" level adjustment settings when switching between Bitstream and LPCM output from the 93. The "temporary" adjustments I had previously made for DTS-HD MA Bitstream playback *ONLY* kicked-in when the input was a DTS-HD MA Bitstream. Which is, of course, the desired result.


2) There were no audio dropouts at any point. MACCA I suspect you have a faulty disc copy. (Another possible explanation is the difference in decoding for 5.1 speakers vs. 7.1 speakers.)


The only potential confusion I found was that since there is no Mode Preset for 6.1 input, the one for 5.1 input apparently gets used instead.


I also played the first half-hour on the Oppo 83, again using Bitstream audio. There were no audio dropouts.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21005171
> 
> *HA! I THINK I'VE FOUND IT!*
> 
> 
> I think I've found what makes the Surround speakers work or fail.
> 
> 
> If the original Source, i.e., whatever's selected at power up of the D2v, happens to be playing 2.0 audio as you power up *AND* if Anthem Logic - Cinema is the Mode Preset for 2.0 input, then the Surround speakers will work! You can now change the 2.0 content to PLIIx processing and the Surround speakers continue to work, or you can switch to 5.1 content (NONE processing) and the Surround speakers continue to work.
> 
> 
> BUT if the original Source selected at power up happens to be playing 5.1 content, or if it is playing 2.0 content but with PLIIx-Movie as the Mode Preset, then the Surrounds will NOT work, from then on, in the fashion previously described. I.e., you CAN get audio from them with ALL Mono, ALL Stereo, or either Anthem Logic mode, but you CAN'T get audio from them with any PLIIx mode, the NEO:6 mode or NONE processing of 5.1 content. Once in this state, I've found no way out of it except to power cycle under the conditions described in the previous paragraph.
> 
> 
> This appears to be repeatable. It doesn't matter whether the initial audio input at power up is HDMI or Optical Digital. So far I've only tested it with DD2.0 audio as the initial audio.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> In the course of testing this, it also looks like the new HDMI code is having trouble with the Oppo BDP-93 and also with my Comcast DVR. The symptoms are brief glitches after the handshake has apparently worked, or green screen (HDCP failure) from the Comcast box, or YCbCr/RGB confusion from the Oppo (shocking pink video).
> 
> *At this point I think I'm going to declare V2.11c no good, and revert back to V2.11.*
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: Whee! I got a cookie!
> 
> --Bob



I thank God for folks like you Bob ...can't see myself being level headed enough to resolve the errors you've observed and managed to consistently duplicate, all in a space of a few hours or less. Good work indeed!


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20477783
> 
> 
> Had a really strange glitch the other day. Turned the system on to watch some recorded shows on the pvr and the center channel wasn't working. All others were working but not properly, they sounded like they were fading out and breaking up like a radio station that's not quite tuned in. The D2v was receiving 2channel PCM and I had PLIIx Movie set.
> 
> 
> So I power cycled the D2v and that didn't help. I switched to the Blu-ray player and the misses had an old DVD which only had a stereo sound track. Same thing happened, no center channel and all others were on the fritz. So I stuck in a BD and low an behold with a 5.1 source it played fine.
> 
> 
> So I switched back to the pvr and no go. Power cycled a few times and after a while it fixed itself. Very strange indeed. But even stranger is the problem wasn't static, ie the sound would fade up and down in level without touching volume control, just like a radio station that's not quite tuned in.
> 
> 
> You could imagine my befuddlement for about 30min until this gremlin disappeared. What has me concerned is that there seems to be no reason that it occurred or why and how it fixed itself and it may occur at any time.
> 
> 
> Very weird indeed, I've never had AV gear have a brain snap like that before.
> 
> 
> Cheers





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20604295
> 
> 
> This just happened for the third time now. Was able to narrow it down to the center channel, though at first it seemed to affect the others also. Setting to Stereo at first(had to change in the Modes menu) seemed to affect the L/R channels but not to the same degree. After a little while only the center channel was affected, ie stereo sounded fine Mono, or PLIIx or other mode that used the center channel caused this issue to show up.
> 
> 
> After a little while, or maybe from the start(cant be certain), any sound out of the center channel was very low in volume and turning volume up caused distortion which sounded like signal clipping or similar to a radio station that's not tuned in right or a loose connection.
> 
> 
> I was using the PVR so I switched to the BD player and put in a CD. Same thing, stereo was fine, Mono or PLIIx or other mode(all channel stereo etc) that used the center channel caused this issue to show up. I tried wiggling the XLR connections and cables from D2v to the speakers and that didn't help
> 
> 
> So I ruled out the source device, source content, source connections and XLR output cables as the culprit. So I power cycled the center speaker(Seaton Catalyst) a couple of times, problem still present. I leave the Catalysts powered on all the time so there is no possible 'warm up' issue that could be attributed to them.
> 
> 
> Next thing I did, with the D2v still running and source playing, was to power off the front Catalysts and put the input cable from the center speaker to the right speaker. Powered them on again and the problem did not follow the cable to the right speaker. Here I thought maybe the problem was the center speaker, that was until I put the cable back to the center speaker......the problem was gone. It would seem my time to diagnose was up(about 30min had passed).
> 
> 
> So, anyone else had this kind of an issue. I'm about 95% certain the D2v is causing this problem. There's probably a 5% chance the center Catalyst is to blame. Until this happens again, and it only occures when the D2v has been cold powered on(it's winter here) so won't show up for a while.
> 
> 
> I need to be certain before I send it back.
> 
> 
> Cheers





Remember this issue I had. It just happened again today so I had a chance to swap the center and right speaker outputs to determine where the problem is.


EDIT:

Just re-reading the above post and this time only the center channel seemed to affected so maybe this one is something different.......not sure, might have to happen a few more times to be more certain.


What happened:

1)I swapped the center and right XLR cables at the input of the speakers

2)The right speaker played the center source without issue

3)I then assumed the center speaker was the problem so swapped the cables back.

4)The center speaker played back at a lower level, but higher than before.

5)I power cycled the center speaker

6)I realized that in step 3) I accidentally muted the midrange amp on the center speaker

7)I unmuted the midrange driver

8)Playback was normal and problem fixed.


So now I'm back to square one, I'm not sure if the problem is the D2v or the speaker as it could be that simply switching the cables caused one or the other to fix, because the fix seems to have occurred when the cables wer switched.


I'm going to have to wait till this happens again, then I'll simply unplug and replug the center XLR(ensuring I don't accidentally touch the mute buttons.


I thought it may have been the center speaker as I had a similar issue with my left surround but it lasted for at least an hour and I had time to swap cables and channels a number of times and fiddle with a number of other things and it stayed with the speaker not the output channel. In the end I unplugged the speaker for about an hour after which I powered it on and everything was fine. Just checked it now and it's dropped in volume again so swapped the D2v left and right surrounds outputs a number of times and it definitely stays with the speaker, not the D2v. So this one is a problem with my left surround speaker.


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21009505
> 
> 
> A follow up on some Star Wars questions from above:
> 
> 
> I played my rental copy of "Star Wars: Episode VI" on the Oppo 93 using the latest (0917) Official firmware in the player and the V2.11 firmware in the D2v.
> 
> 
> 1) I found no problem with the "temporary" level adjustment settings when switching between Bitstream and LPCM output from the 93. The "temporary" adjustments I had previously made for DTS-HD MA Bitstream playback *ONLY* kicked-in when the input was a DTS-HD MA Bitstream. Which is, of course, the desired result.
> 
> 
> 2) There were no audio dropouts at any point. MACCA I suspect you have a faulty disc copy. (Another possible explanation is the difference in decoding for 5.1 speakers vs. 7.1 speakers.)
> 
> 
> The only potential confusion I found was that since there is no Mode Preset for 6.1 input, the one for 5.1 input apparently gets used instead.
> 
> 
> I also played the first half-hour on the Oppo 83, again using Bitstream audio. There were no audio dropouts.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for giving it a go Bob. Another possibility is that I have the Australian release and I assume you guys are using the US release.


Cheers


----------



## Michael_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21009376
> 
> 
> Typically the cure for this is to run the Flash Eraser from your Windows PC, and then redo the firmware install.
> 
> 
> NOTE: You will lose your User and Installer memories. So back up your Setup and Video Source Adjust settings to a PC file and/or write them down for manual replacement afterwards. You will also need to re-Upload your ARC file.
> 
> 
> Call Anthem tech support for access to the Flash Eraser utility, and for assistance.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob! I will give them a call!


Mike


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21005932
> 
> 
> I only noticed this issue now as I've only recently decided to let the OPPO do all the decoding due to the D2v's level issues........now were damned if we do and damned if we don't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you check if your audio drops out while bitstreaming around 12min into ep VI?
> 
> 
> Cheers



I use a HTPC and have not had any issues with any of the star wars blu ray disk for drop out and appears to be decoding it just fine.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Test firmware V2.11c for the D2v and AVM 50v has been pulled from Anthem's password protected download page.*


Test firmware V2.11b (dated 9/2/2011) has reappeared in its place. See the change notes I posted above regarding the V2.11c release to see the differences.


Personally, I'm sticking with V2.11 for now (dated 3/29/2011 -- also available in that download).

--Bob


----------



## cougar75

Hello. I am looking at purchasing a new Anthem 50v from my local dealer. Are there any known issues with this prepro that would change my mind?? Thanks in advance for your input. Also, for those of you that have this unit, would you buy it again?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello. I am looking at purchasing a new Anthem 50v from my local dealer. Are there any known issues with this prepro that would change my mind?? Thanks in advance for your input. Also, for those of you that have this unit, would you buy it again?



If you like great sound and state of the art video processing then you've narrowed to a good choice.

John


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75* /forum/post/21023106
> 
> 
> Hello. I am looking at purchasing a new Anthem 50v from my local dealer. Are there any known issues with this prepro that would change my mind?? Thanks in advance for your input. Also, for those of you that have this unit, would you buy it again?



That's what have and I love it. No major issues. Performance is way up there for movies....make sure you run ARC.


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21023190
> 
> 
> If you like great sound and state of the art video processing then you've narrowed to a good choice.
> 
> John



John, glad you mentioned the video processor. It doesn't get a lot of attention, but I noticed how good it was right away....noticeably better than my previous receivers.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> John, glad you mentioned the video processor. It doesn't get a lot of attention, but I noticed how good it was right away....noticeably better than my previous receivers.



It often is forgotten, ARC gets all the attention









John


----------



## Heybrook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75* /forum/post/21023106
> 
> 
> Hello. I am looking at purchasing a new Anthem 50v from my local dealer. Are there any known issues with this prepro that would change my mind?? Thanks in advance for your input. Also, for those of you that have this unit, would you buy it again?




I think the best part about this unit is you can get most of your issues fixed right here on this forum,these guys are excellent. Once you have everything tweaked to your room it works great.

Yes I would buy it again.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/21023249
> 
> 
> That's what have and I love it. No major issues. Performance is way up there for movies....make sure you run ARC.



and trim the front levels in DTS hd . A minor issue that will be fixed.... i hope.

anyway - i will bye this unit again. It is a very compleet unit, witt no compromice


----------



## SimonNo10

Anyone tried Thor on Bluray yet and compared LPCM and Bitstream?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone tried Thor on Bluray yet and compared LPCM and Bitstream?



Compared what between them?

John


----------



## cougar75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz* /forum/post/20258020
> 
> 
> I have an 8-track tape player in my system, can you tell me the best way to connect this unit to the D2.





Use duct tape.


----------



## Warpdrv

Anyone interested in a perfect condition used D2v - I've recently (with head and heart in hands) posted mine up for sale reluctantly in the classified section....










http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/vbcla...9#post21026435


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Compared what between them?
> 
> John



Read my post (No.34438) here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8260&page=1148


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Read my post (No.34438) here:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8260&page=1148



I watched it using PCM out of my oppo 83 and it sounded the same as bitstream.

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello. I am looking at purchasing a new Anthem 50v from my local dealer. Are there any known issues with this prepro that would change my mind?? Thanks in advance for your input. Also, for those of you that have this unit, would you buy it again?



The only aspect I was disappointed with was the video processor. It does not currently have the advanced flexibility of the previous D2 processor due to software limitation. I have been chasing Anthem for the missing software (LiveVideoSettingsEditor) all year. That said, if you have a modern digital display and you're not a videophile tweaker you will probably not need those features (but they are advertised in the spec sheet and user manual).


Another deficiency you may never notice: The de-interlacing is better for poorly mastered DVDs on my Toshiba HD-A35.


----------



## flash2003

Hi All,


I have a few questions for you D2 experts.


1) I have a D2 that's running v1.33 software and would like to update ARC and rerun it. What version of ARC should I use?


2) I am looking for a remote that would work well with the D2. I was thinking about a Logitech Harmony One or 900 or something in this price range. Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated.


Thanks in advance,


Flash


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flash2003* /forum/post/21030312
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I have a few questions for you D2 experts.
> 
> 
> 1) I have a D2 that's running v1.33 software and would like to update ARC and rerun it. What version of ARC should I use?
> 
> 
> 2) I am looking for a remote that would work well with the D2. I was thinking about a Logitech Harmony One or 900 or something in this price range. Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Flash



Run the latest ARC which is 3.0.1

if you have a capable Sub go to Targets then advance and set the sub high pass order to Flat.

I cannot comment on the remote control question


----------



## flash2003

Thanks for the reply thestewman.


I don't seem to be able to locate ARC v3.0.1 on the Anthem site. Is v3.0.2 ok to use? Seems to have some MRX receiver updates.


As for the subwoofer, I currently have a HSU VTF-12 (MK II I think). Should I be using the setting that you suggested with this sub -> Targets then advance and set the sub high pass order to Flat?


Flash


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flash2003* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply thestewman.
> 
> 
> I don't seem to be able to locate ARC v3.0.1 on the Anthem site. Is v3.0.2 ok to use? Seems to have some MRX receiver updates.
> 
> 
> As for the subwoofer, I currently have a HSU VTF-12 (MK II I think). Should I be using the setting that you suggested with this sub -> Targets then advance and set the sub high pass order to Flat?
> 
> 
> Flash



3.02 is fine for all Anthem products. Flat is for sub with the ability to go below 20Hz at high volume and that have protection beliw that level so sub isn't taxed too much.

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flash2003* /forum/post/21030593
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply thestewman.
> 
> 
> I don't seem to be able to locate ARC v3.0.1 on the Anthem site. Is v3.0.2 ok to use? Seems to have some MRX receiver updates.
> 
> 
> As for the subwoofer, I currently have a HSU VTF-12 (MK II I think). Should I be using the setting that you suggested with this sub -> Targets then advance and set the sub high pass order to Flat?
> 
> 
> Flash



Flash,


ARC 3.0.2 is the most recent official firmware. That's the one you want to use.


HSU makes some pretty good subs (I'm a SVS man myself) and can probably handle the 'flat' setting without any problems. Post your graphs and targets here after your new ARC run and the experts here can better advise if you should use the flat setting or not.


Tom


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I watched it using PCM out of my oppo 83 and it sounded the same as bitstream



That's very interesting. So you didn't need to change the volume up when setting the Oppo to LPCM as opposed to Bitstream?


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flash2003* /forum/post/21030312
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I am looking for a remote that would work well with the D2. I was thinking about a Logitech Harmony One or 900 or something in this price range. Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Flash



Hi Flash,


The Harmony One is great for the Anthem. I am using it for my D2v. Enables me to retire 6 individual remotes in my system.










Ben


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> That's very interesting. So you didn't need to change the volume up when setting the Oppo to LPCM as opposed to Bitstream?



No, I increase dB by 2 when using PCM. No other diff. This as per MACCA and Bob's advice.

John


----------



## flash2003

Hi All,


Thanks to jayray, tngiloy and benleeys for your replies.


I've had my eye on the Logitech Harmony One so it's nice to hear it works well with the D2.


The sub I have is a HSU vtf-3 MK2, don't know where I got the vtf-12 from?? I have been thinking about a Velodyne DD+ 12 but I am not sure if would be overkill for my HT. I had a chance to audition one and I must admit it's quite the monster. Anyways....


I will attempt to run ARC using v3.0.2 this weekend so hopefully I'll have some graphs for you folks to have a look at next week.


Again thanks for the info.


Flash


----------



## rovingtravler

Flash,


I have a much older HGS-15 from Velodyne, but the response curve, lack of distortion, and overall power are great..


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> No, I increase dB by 2 when using PCM. No other diff. This as per MACCA and Bob's advice



Ok thanks for letting me know.


----------



## cougar75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/21031804
> 
> 
> Hi Flash,
> 
> 
> The Harmony One is great for the Anthem. I am using it for my D2v. Enables me to retire 6 individual remotes in my system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ben




I have the Harmony 900. It is a Harmony One with RF. RF is very nice feature. No pointing required. Love mine.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21032151
> 
> 
> No, I increase dB by 2 when using PCM. No other diff. This as per MACCA and Bob's advice.
> 
> John



Don't believe we've recommended that. Here's a list of the issues 


If you're playing, as I believe Thor is, a DTS-HDMA 7.1 the only known issue is the -3dB on the front left and right channels when bitstreaming.


Cheers


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't believe we've recommended that. Here's a list of the issues
> 
> 
> If you're playing, as I believe Thor is, a DTS-HDMA 7.1 the only known issue is the -3dB on the front left and right channels when bitstreaming.
> 
> 
> Cheers



I believe a way back we were told that PCM had to be boosted by approximately 2dB to match the level of the bitstream version of a DTS MA track. My own listening indicates PCM to be quieter than bitstreaming by that amount.

John


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21035882
> 
> 
> I believe a way back we were told that PCM had to be boosted by approximately 2dB to match the level of the bitstream version of a DTS MA track. My own listening indicates PCM to be quieter than bitstreaming by that amount.
> 
> John



3dB, not 2dB, and as far as we can tell it's actually the DTS-HDMA 5.1 decoding that's increased not the LPCM that's decreased. So number 4) in the link I posted, bitstreamed DTS-HDMA 5.1 needs to be reduced by 3dB(along with applying the front left and right channel +3dB fix)


Another way to look at it is that bitstreaming DTS-HDMA 5.1 causes an increase of 3dB on channels Center, Surround Left, Surround Right and LFE.


Cheers


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 3dB, not 2dB, and as far as we can tell it's actually the DTS-HDMA 5.1 decoding that's increased not the LPCM that's decreased. So number 4) in the link I posted, bitstreamed DTS-HDMA 5.1 needs to be reduced by 3dB(along with applying the front left and right channel +3dB fix)
> 
> 
> Another way to look at it is that bitstreaming DTS-HDMA 5.1 causes an increase of 3dB on channels Center, Surround Left, Surround Right and LFE.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Gotcha,

Thanks,

John


----------



## airboyd

D2 with ARC 3.01, B&W 802 S3 in front, 805 rear, HTM center and Sunfire Sub.


I had to reload my firmware due to a display fault and decided put the spikes back on the fronts and then remeasure the room. I have been having trouble getting the Sunfire to read properly and had to increase the volume to max/15db on the sub. Not sure why, but it's the only thing that worked. Anyway.


I was reading the readme file while waiting and wondered what would happen if I set my fronts to Flat in the advanced menu. The measurement files are the first 2 screen shots and the 3rd is the calculated band for flat for fronts and rears. I tried it and the bass is much better than before and blends more naturally with the sub. The speakers sound more like I prefer a little more bassy.


I know it sounds better to me, but what did I achieve by changing the the Response Cutoffs to Flat?


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75* /forum/post/21035345
> 
> 
> I have the Harmony 900. It is a Harmony One with RF. RF is very nice feature. No pointing required. Love mine.



Useful feature .... for 90 more $.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd* /forum/post/21036098
> 
> 
> D2 with ARC 3.01, B&W 802 S3 in front, 805 rear, HTM center and Sunfire Sub.
> 
> 
> I had to reload my firmware due to a display fault and decided put the spikes back on the fronts and then remeasure the room. I have been having trouble getting the Sunfire to read properly and had to increase the volume to max/15db on the sub. Not sure why, but it's the only thing that worked. Anyway.
> 
> 
> I was reading the readme file while waiting and wondered what would happen if I set my fronts to Flat in the advanced menu. The measurement files are the first 2 screen shots and the 3rd is the calculated band for flat for fronts and rears. I tried it and the bass is much better than before and blends more naturally with the sub. The speakers sound more like I prefer a little more bassy.
> 
> 
> I know it sounds better to me, but what did I achieve by changing the the Response Cutoffs to Flat?




I'm not sure I understand you correctly.

The choice you have with the the settings in ARC for the fronts is *'full range'* or not.

In 'full range' all the bass (except for LFE encoded info on movie tracks if a sub is chosen) is sent to your fronts. Your B&W 802's sure look like they can handle the 'full range' setting. And if it sounds better to you then that's what counts.

Many people with full range speakers like yours will run a separate 'movie' and 'music' run in ARC, setting the fronts to 'full range' and no sub for the 'music' run, and leaving the sub on for the 'movie' ARC run to handle LFE in movie sound tracks.


There is a *'flat'* setting in the advanced ARC for your sub. That is for subs that can safely handle freq below 20 hz. If your sub is capable you can try that setting. The sub 'flat' setting will be more noticible in the LFE in movies.

Again if that sounds better, use it.


I'm a little concerned when you said that you needed to set your sub to volume to max/15db.
*Where are you setting the volume for your sub??*

The individual speaker settings in the Anthem menu 'LEVEL CALIBRATION' section should all be zero. From Front-L all the way thru Music Sub set the level to zero. The only adjustment is made in the 'noise level'/'test level' and with the subs gain/volume knob.


In the 'LEVEL CALIBRATION' menu set the 'noise sequence' to 'manual'. Using an SPL meter set to 'slow/C weight' the 'noise level'/test level' should be adjusted so that it reads @75db at the primary listening spot/ear level.


Then go down to the 'movie sub' line.
*Using the volume knob on your sub* adjust it so that it reads @73-75db on the SPL meter at the primary listening spot/ear level. Leave the sub setting in the Anthem menu at zero.


If that's what you did, great. If not, please redo your settings in the Anthem menu and re-run ARC.

Also, please include your 'targets' page with your attatched files next time.


Tom


----------



## gblack




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Useful feature .... for 90 more $.



The 900 also has the four colored action buttons that dvr's and blu-ray players use. With the One you'd have to map those keys to other buttons or the touch screen. IMO it's worth the $90 to have them as hard buttons.


----------



## airboyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21037418
> 
> 
> I'm not sure I understand you correctly.
> 
> The choice you have with the the settings in ARC for the fronts is *'full range'* or not.
> 
> In 'full range' all the bass (except for LFE encoded info on movie tracks if a sub is chosen) is sent to your fronts. Your B&W 802's sure look like they can handle the 'full range' setting. And if it sounds better to you then that's what counts.
> 
> Many people with full range speakers like yours will run a separate 'movie' and 'music' run in ARC, setting the fronts to 'full range' and no sub for the 'music' run, and leaving the sub on for the 'movie' ARC run to handle LFE in movie sound tracks.
> 
> 
> There is a *'flat'* setting in the advanced ARC for your sub. That is for subs that can safely handle freq below 20 hz. If your sub is capable you can try that setting. The sub 'flat' setting will be more noticible in the LFE in movies.
> 
> Again if that sounds better, use it.
> 
> 
> I'm a little concerned when you said that you needed to set your sub to volume to max/15db.
> *Where are you setting the volume for your sub??*
> 
> The individual speaker settings in the Anthem menu 'LEVEL CALIBRATION' section should all be zero. From Front-L all the way thru Music Sub set the level to zero. The only adjustment is made in the 'noise level'/'test level' and with the subs gain/volume knob.
> 
> 
> In the 'LEVEL CALIBRATION' menu set the 'noise sequence' to 'manual'. Using an SPL meter set to 'slow/C weight' the 'noise level'/test level' should be adjusted so that it reads @75db at the primary listening spot/ear level.
> 
> 
> Then go down to the 'movie sub' line.
> *Using the volume knob on your sub* adjust it so that it reads @73-75db on the SPL meter at the primary listening spot/ear level. Leave the sub setting in the Anthem menu at zero.
> 
> 
> If that's what you did, great. If not, please redo your settings in the Anthem menu and re-run ARC.
> 
> Also, please include your 'targets' page with your attatched files next time.
> 
> 
> Tom



I did the front left calibration per the ARC instructions here from 2008-ish.


Here's the readme: ARC Version 3.0 added features including



> Quote:
> 5. Further to item 4, added Flat correction range option when speakers are set to full range in Targets. To access Flat setting, select Full Range X-Over, then set frequency lower than 25 Hz or type "f" in the frequency window. (Also remember that typing "n" in frequency window disables the speaker in that configuration, as long as it is not Fronts, without discarding the measurement in case you would like to use it later).



I just want to know what this is actually achieving. Why did they add the Flat response in other words?


SO, I set to to full range and ran the Response Cutoffs to Flat. Picture attached. Yes, I'm still playing with the Max EQ above Bob's 12k suggestion for my speakers from several hundred pages ago. Separate discussion on playing with that number...I've finally had time to play with some different settings and take the time to see what changes they make. As a long time Mac user it's been a game of waiting until I really wanted to boot into Bootcamp. Lion and Parallels work fine now, so not as much of an issue.


Don't know what's wrong with the sub now. It kept failing measurment in position 2 and 4 and gave an error message and suggested turing up the volume on it, which I did. It's not been a problem before and is the same sub. I'm wondering if there was some sort of null in those two locations. Turning it up didn't seem to make much difference. The Sunfire has a +15/0/-15 setting and has always seemed arbitrary.


Anyway, really more interested in what the Flat setting does? I know the bass is better from the fronts, or at least louder and more powerful. Noticed a massive difference with the XBOX 360. I'm working the sub issue. I suspect my sub may be going bad.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd* /forum/post/21038428
> 
> 
> I did the front left calibration per the ARC instructions here from 2008-ish.
> 
> 
> Here's the readme: ARC Version 3.0 added features including
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just want to know what this is actually achieving. Why did they add the Flat response in other words?
> 
> 
> SO, I set to to full range and ran the Response Cutoffs to Flat. Picture attached. Yes, I'm still playing with the Max EQ above Bob's 12k suggestion for my speakers from several hundred pages ago. Separate discussion on playing with that number...I've finally had time to play with some different settings and take the time to see what changes they make. As a long time Mac user it's been a game of waiting until I really wanted to boot into Bootcamp. Lion and Parallels work fine now, so not as much of an issue.
> 
> 
> Don't know what's wrong with the sub now. It kept failing measurment in position 2 and 4 and gave an error message and suggested turing up the volume on it, which I did. It's not been a problem before and is the same sub. I'm wondering if there was some sort of null in those two locations. Turning it up didn't seem to make much difference. The Sunfire has a +15/0/-15 setting and has always seemed arbitrary.
> 
> 
> Anyway, really more interested in what the Flat setting does? I know the bass is better from the fronts, or at least louder and more powerful. Noticed a massive difference with the XBOX 360. I'm working the sub issue. I suspect my sub may be going bad.



Airboyd,


I have always used smaller fronts, so I never tried them as full range. I was unaware of a 'flat' setting for the fronts. Learned something new. Thanks.


I'm not sure but it sounds as if it may send all bass, including LFE, to the fronts at that setting. If you get a chance ask Anthem Tech and post what they say.


As for the Sunfire getting the error messaqge in the 2 and 4 mic positions, it does sound like a room null. Have you changed its position or settings since you last ran ARC? Seems weird it didn't happen before.


You might try going into the Anthem setup - 'speaker calibration' and set it to manual and select the sub (so that you are generating the pink noise from your sub) and see what happens if you stand in the 2 and 4 mic positions?

Does the sound diminish in those spots? Does it get better if you stand at the other mic positions?

I ask because when I was using 2 subs in my HT a while back, I had dead spots in my room for the sub. Once I set the phase on one sub to 180 and left the other at 0 the dead spots disapeared. I don't know if your sub is acting this way, but if it is you may be able to adjust the phase(either in the sunfires adjustments, or in the Anthem setup menu) to correct it.

Hope your sub isn't going bad, unless your looking for a good reason to buy a new one.










Tom


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flash2003* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I have a few questions for you D2 experts.
> 
> 
> 1) I have a D2 that's running v1.33 software and would like to update ARC and rerun it. What version of ARC should I use?
> 
> 
> 2) I am looking for a remote that would work well with the D2. I was thinking about a Logitech Harmony One or 900 or something in this price range. Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Flash



I use irule for remote control it is so easy and powerful of course u need an iPod iPhone or iPad to use it but is awesome.


----------



## MACCA350

As I understand it the Full Range setting disables the crossover on those speakers, same as the Large setting in other processors.


The Flat setting disables ARC's low end roll off or high pass(aka subsonic) filter. A high pass filter in this context is a form of protection as it filters out the lowest frequencies below what the subwoofer or speaker can safely handle. Most subs have this and/or other protection built in so there's no need to use it in ARC.

Most passive speakers do not have a subsonic filter so disabling it in ARC is not recommended. Disabling the crossover and running mains as Full Range is also not recommended, even if they can handle bass down below 20Hz there are numerous reasons to redirect the bass to a dedicated subwoofer.


If you're mains are producing better bass than you're sub you may need to look at your subs capabilities and positioning and sort that out first.


Cheers


----------



## runninkyle17

Just got my D2v in today and I am having some HDMI handshake issues with my HTPC.


I am running Win 7 x64 Pro, AMD HD6850 video card, and my display is a Panny VT25.


I can get the display to come up when I originally turn on the TV and the d2v with the HTPC always on. If I switch inputs and try to switch back to the HTPC, the display is often just black. If I try and move the mouse around while the d2v is trying to figure out the handshake then I usually get picture on the TV (but not always).


This is really frustrating since on my previous Onkyo receiver everything was working perfectly.


Any suggestions? I am willing to buy a switch to make it look like the HTPC's hdmi connection is always on, but I need a little guidance. Cheers!


----------



## runninkyle17

Any suggestions?


I set the video resolution to auto and the Aud-Dig to no. This seemed to help a little, but now I notice that the audio will work initially and then if I pause a video for a little (about 30 seconds) and when the video is restarted I get picture, but the D2v doesn't pick up the audio stream. I have to switch to another input, switch back to the HTPC input and make sure my mouse is moving so that the D2v gets a signal I guess.


Needless to say it is pretty infuriating to pay this kind of money for something that doesn't work properly. The sound is absolutely amazing, so I want to make this thing work


----------



## airboyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21039651
> 
> 
> As I understand it the Full Range setting disables the crossover on those speakers, same as the Large setting in other processors.
> 
> 
> The Flat setting disables ARC's low end roll off or high pass(aka subsonic) filter. A high pass filter in this context is a form of protection as it filters out the lowest frequencies below what the subwoofer or speaker can safely handle. Most subs have this and/or other protection built in so there's no need to use it in ARC.
> 
> Most passive speakers do not have a subsonic filter so disabling it in ARC is not recommended. Disabling the crossover and running mains as Full Range is also not recommended, even if they can handle bass down below 20Hz there are numerous reasons to redirect the bass to a dedicated subwoofer.
> 
> 
> If you're mains are producing better bass than you're sub you may need to look at your subs capabilities and positioning and sort that out first.
> 
> 
> Cheers



I'll email the techs. I can see my tweaking is going to get more exotic in the next few weeks.


I'm about to buy my friends speakers and add them to my 5.1 to make a 7.1 and add a two channel amp and let the 5 channel to the rest. My 2 channel will power my fronts and will likely get a separate ARC run for just them in music.


So now I'll have to figure out how to set the pre-ARC 75db setting for both amps as they won't be matched. Then my fronts are bi-wired with the B&W internal crossovers set at 400Hz and 3kHZ and I have to figure out what affect the ARC has on that still. The frequency range on the 802s is rated from 22Hz-25kHz with a frequency response of -9dB at 25Hz, so I'm not too worried about running them full range, but I'll look into the subsonic issues.


----------



## treky11

i have the chance to get an AVM 50v for just under $2k. Wondering if I should make the jump as I just spent some money on a pair of KEF Reference 205/2s. Guessing I would pair it with a MCA 50.


Anybody have any experience with this amp / speaker combo? Also, does the AVM 50V support 1.4 and 3D?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *treky11* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i have the chance to get an AVM 50v for just under $2k. Wondering if I should make the jump as I just spent some money on a pair of KEF Reference 205/2s. Guessing I would pair it with a MCA 50.
> 
> 
> Anybody have any experience with this amp / speaker combo? Also, does the AVM 50V support 1.4 and 3D?



That is a no brainer. Speaker combo with this preamp and amp will be irrelevant. It will sound great with ARC, as do any other combos.

John


----------



## bigcoupe2003

i have a anthem D2V and had a custom installer put everything in I'm not sure if the unit is having a handshaking issue or needs some firmware update but every time i turn on the directv or blu ray it keeps it on 480p resolution how do I get this unit to display the full 1080i for directv and 1080p for my blu ray


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigcoupe2003* /forum/post/21054453
> 
> 
> i have a anthem D2V and had a custom installer put everything in I'm not sure if the unit is having a handshaking issue or needs some firmware update but every time i turn on the directv or blu ray it keeps it on 480p resolution how do I get this unit to display the full 1080i for directv and 1080p for my blu ray



My Not Helpful ADVICE is call the CUSTOM INSTALLER BACK.


You did not get your money's worth.


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigcoupe2003* /forum/post/21054453
> 
> 
> i have a anthem D2V and had a custom installer put everything in I'm not sure if the unit is having a handshaking issue or needs some firmware update but every time i turn on the directv or blu ray it keeps it on 480p resolution how do I get this unit to display the full 1080i for directv and 1080p for my blu ray



Go into the setup menu (the blue generic one) and force the Anthem to set your resolution for those inputs. I had to do the same thing.


Oh, and make sure your DirecTV box is outputting all resolutions, and make sure the blu ray player is outputting 1080p.


----------



## runninkyle17

So after doing an EDID override and still not solving the handshake issue I broke down and bought a Gefen HDMI Detective Plus. One day shipping from amazon and set it all up today. Solved the problem perfectly. Basically the setup works just as my old Onkyo receiver did. Now I am a little pissed that I had to go through that at all, but I am mainly pissed at AMD for not being able to implement the whole EDID thing successfully.


I am more than happy now though as the D2v, Martin Logan Spires, Stage center channel and all the goodness is just singing now


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17* /forum/post/21055489
> 
> 
> So after doing an EDID override and still not solving the handshake issue I broke down and bought a Gefen HDMI Detective Plus. One day shipping from amazon and set it all up today. Solved the problem perfectly. Basically the setup works just as my old Onkyo receiver did. Now I am a little pissed that I had to go through that at all, but I am mainly pissed at AMD for not being able to implement the whole EDID thing successfully.
> 
> 
> I am more than happy now though as the D2v, Martin Logan Spires, Stage center channel and all the goodness is just singing now



That is the *RIGHT* Solution - Enjoy


----------



## gtx01

I've just purchased a Blu-ray which has a DTS-HD MA 2.0 soundtrack (it's a TV series). I'm bitstreaming from my Blu-ray player to my AVM-50v and getting sound from my two front speakers. Should I be able to apply processing such as Dolby PLIIx or DTS Neo:6 to a DTS-HD MA input so I can get output from all speakers?


I've tried pressing the Mode button but get no options to apply anything. If I keep pressing 'select' it says the input is L & R and output is L, R, C, LS, SR and Sub but this is false and there only sound from the L & R.


I'm on v2.11 software but wondered if this is connected with the problem Bob reported with v2.11c a few pages back, or should I simply not be able to alter a DTS-HD MA track?


Thanks


GT


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've just purchased a Blu-ray which has a DTS-HD MA 2.0 soundtrack (it's a TV series). I'm bitstreaming from my Blu-ray player to my AVM-50v and getting sound from my two front speakers. Should I be able to apply processing such as Dolby PLIIx or DTS Neo:6 to a DTS-HD MA input so I can get output from all speakers?
> 
> 
> I've tried pressing the Mode button but get no options to apply anything. If I keep pressing 'select' it says the input is L & R and output is L, R, C, LS, SR and Sub but this is false and there only sound from the L & R.
> 
> 
> I'm on v2.11 software but wondered if this is connected with the problem Bob reported with v2.11c a few pages back, or should I simply not be able to alter a DTS-HD MA track?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> GT



Go into setup and set 2.0 from your Bluray player to have PLIIx applied. See if that works of you haven't tried that yet.

John


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21067014
> 
> 
> Go into setup and set 2.0 from your Bluray player to have PLIIx applied. See if that works of you haven't tried that yet.
> 
> John



I don't seem to have the option to do that in my player. I have a Cambridge Audio Azur 751BD


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/21067541
> 
> 
> I don't seem to have the option to do that in my player. I have a Cambridge Audio Azur 751BD



I believe he means in the Anthem, under the Blu-Ray input.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I believe he means in the Anthem, under the Blu-Ray input.



That is correct.

John


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/21067591
> 
> 
> I believe he means in the Anthem, under the Blu-Ray input.



Sorry, my mistake, now it makes a lot more sense. I already have PLIIx set for 2.0 under the Mode Preset for the Blu-ray but it makes no difference. Nothing, except changing the Blu-ray output to LPCM, seems to get anything but stereo sound.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, my mistake, now it makes a lot more sense. I already have PLIIx set for 2.0 under the Mode Preset for the Blu-ray but it makes no difference. Nothing, except changing the Blu-ray output to LPCM, seems to get anything but stereo sound.



For the time being, use PCM since there is no diff b/t it and bitstreaming.

John


----------



## AVfile

So is this correct behavior for DTS 2.0?


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21069399
> 
> 
> So is this correct behavior for DTS 2.0?



I was wondering the same thing. I prefer to use bitstream as you can tell from the display what's actually being input.


One way or the other the Anthem seems to be doing something wrong as it's saying it's outputting on all speakers when it's not. If you simply should not be able to add processing to DTS-HD MA then shouldn't the Anthem say the output is just using L & R speakers?


----------



## obie_fl

Sounds like the issue we had in the early days of HDTV where the center and surround speakers had no data in them but still present in the bitstream. No way for the processor to know they are empty.


The 2.0 input settings are only for PCM I believe.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/21070397
> 
> 
> One way or the other the Anthem seems to be doing something wrong as it's saying it's outputting on all speakers when it's not. If you simply should not be able to add processing to DTS-HD MA then shouldn't the Anthem say the output is just using L & R speakers?



Yes. I would like to try it myself but I doubt that I have any DTS 2.0 material. What format & mode does the front panel display indicate?


When you say there's nothing coming out of the surrounds, how much surround activity are you expecting from a 2.0 source anyway? Do you get a lot of activity in PCM 2.0 with the same disc?


----------



## RobertR

I've noticed a big disparity in volume on some titles between bitstreaming and PCM on my 50V. For example, I was never impressed with the Ice Scene in Titan AE using bitstreaming, but switching over to PCM increases the volume by at least 8 dB, and the room is filled with room shaking bass.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've noticed a big disparity in volume on some titles between bitstreaming and PCM on my 50V. For example, I was never impressed with the Ice Scene in Titan AE using bitstreaming, but switching over to PCM increases the volume by at least 8 dB, and the room is filled with room shaking bass.



I've noticed only a 2dB diff. However volume is the only diff, nothing else on my D2v.

John


----------



## maxfli

I am considering buying a D2V or AVM 50V processor, but wanted to know if bi amping and HT sub-out was possible with the following hook-ups:


1) FL and FR XLR outputs to a tube amp connected to the tweeter and midrange of my FL and FR speakers.


2) Sub1 and Sub2 XLR outputs to a SS amp connected to the woofer of my FL and FR speakers.


3) Sub1 and Sub2 RCA outputs to (2) HT sub-woofers.


Thanks,

Max


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *maxfli* /forum/post/21073915
> 
> 
> I am considering buying a D2V or AVM 50V processor, but wanted to know if bi amping and HT sub-out was possible with the following hook-ups:
> 
> 
> 1) FL and FR XLR outputs to a tube amp connected to the tweeter and midrange of my FL and FR speakers.
> 
> 
> 2) Sub1 and Sub2 XLR outputs to a SS amp connected to the woofer of my FL and FR speakers.
> 
> 
> 3) Sub1 and Sub2 RCA outputs to (2) HT sub-woofers.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Max



All those outputs are always live, so that should work. You would not be able to set different crossover points for the XLR and RCA outputs. Also, the XLR outputs are 6 dB higher than the RCA outputs.


----------



## Texas steve

Bob and John,

I believe you both are using the D2V with 5.1. My question is for the "mode Presets" (A-H) that you have chosen for your DVD (Bob I think you have the 83 same as me), and Cable/Sat inputs.


Im not sure I got the optimum settings for these.










Also, just a note - I noted that a couple times now when I turn my D2v on it shows 5.1 all speakers in but when I check the screen info it only shows output of LCR! If I reboot all is well. Using the latest Official firmware.


Thanks Guys - Steve


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob and John,
> 
> I believe you both are using the D2V with 5.1. My question is for the "mode Presets" (A-H) that you have chosen for your DVD (Bob I think you have the 83 same as me), and Cable/Sat inputs.
> 
> 
> Im not sure I got the optimum settings for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, just a note - I noted that a couple times now when I turn my D2v on it shows 5.1 all speakers in but when I check the screen info it only shows output of LCR! If I reboot all is well. Using the latest Official firmware.
> 
> 
> Thanks Guys - Steve



I have a 7.1 setup. For 2.0 sources I use stereo. For anything else, PLIIx. 6.1 shows as 7.1, not sure why so nothing is used.

No cable box with my D2v, only my MRX.

John


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks John. I now Bob has a 5.1 so hopefully he can elaborate on the A-H settings.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21074732
> 
> 
> I have a 7.1 setup. For 2.0 sources I use stereo. For anything else, PLIIx. 6.1 shows as 7.1, not sure why so nothing is used.
> 
> No cable box with my D2v, only my MRX.
> 
> John


----------



## maxfli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR* /forum/post/21074401
> 
> 
> All those outputs are always live, so that should work. You would not be able to set different crossover points for the XLR and RCA outputs. Also, the XLR outputs are 6 dB higher than the RCA outputs.



Thanks Robert, I was wondering about crossovers, but should be fine with the same for both music and HT.


On the volume, the sub levels will be consistent for 2 CH music, but lower than other speakers on HT. I should be able to adjust with volume levels at the subwoofer to make up the difference.


Thanks,

Max


----------



## runninkyle17

Got a quick question that someone here might be able to help me with.


I have an HTPC and I use J. River Media Center to listen to music. All files are lossless (either FLAC, M4a or WAV). Sound from my HTPC is output via bitstreaming from my AMD 6850. When listening to two channel music the D2v shows a PCM stream and 7.1 output on the bottom of the D2v front panel.


Sound only comes out of the front main speakers and the sub. My question is this, how do I make sure that the D2v sees two channel music from my HTPC as just that, two channel music. I have tried to change the mode, but I really can't since the D2v is seeing a 7.1 channel audio stream. I would like to only use the two front speakers and not use the sub. My Spires go down to 29Hz anyway.


In the end, I want to have the ability to use just my two front mains when I want and add the sub for 2.1 if I want also. Any suggestions?


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got a quick question that someone here might be able to help me with.
> 
> 
> I have an HTPC and I use J. River Media Center to listen to music. All files are lossless (either FLAC, M4a or WAV). Sound from my HTPC is output via bitstreaming from my AMD 6850. When listening to two channel music the D2v shows a PCM stream and 7.1 output on the bottom of the D2v front panel.
> 
> 
> Sound only comes out of the front main speakers and the sub. My question is this, how do I make sure that the D2v sees two channel music from my HTPC as just that, two channel music. I have tried to change the mode, but I really can't since the D2v is seeing a 7.1 channel audio stream. I would like to only use the two front speakers and not use the sub. My Spires go down to 29Hz anyway.
> 
> 
> In the end, I want to have the ability to use just my two front mains when I want and add the sub for 2.1 if I want also. Any suggestions?



I too have the same amd card. I found the only way I could get around this was to set up a separate source for music and use the built in sound on the motherboard to get what you desire. The only downer is you have to change your playback settings in htpc every time as well. I am currently working on a macro to toggle that easily.


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21073220
> 
> 
> Yes. I would like to try it myself but I doubt that I have any DTS 2.0 material. What format & mode does the front panel display indicate?
> 
> 
> When you say there's nothing coming out of the surrounds, how much surround activity are you expecting from a 2.0 source anyway? Do you get a lot of activity in PCM 2.0 with the same disc?



I would only expect to get sound from the L & R speakers from 2.0 input so that is working as I would expect. I was trying to add PLIIx to the input so I would get sound from all speakers, same as I do for stereo music.


The front display says "DTS MA 2.0". If I press Mode the display on the screen says "DTS 5.1 Input", which is obviously wrong. If I keep pressing Select the display says "Input Format L R", which is correct, and "Output Format L C R Sub LS RS", which is wrong.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *maxfli* /forum/post/21075091
> 
> 
> Thanks Robert, I was wondering about crossovers, but should be fine with the same for both music and HT.
> 
> 
> On the volume, the sub levels will be consistent for 2 CH music, but lower than other speakers on HT. I should be able to adjust with volume levels at the subwoofer to make up the difference.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Max



Glad to help. One thing I learned to watch out for is to make sure your sub 2 out is NOT set to zone 2. I realized after several months that I had been listening to only 4 of my 8 subwoofer drivers.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *maxfli* /forum/post/21075091
> 
> 
> On the volume, the sub levels will be consistent for 2 CH music, but lower than other speakers on HT. I should be able to adjust with volume levels at the subwoofer to make up the difference.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Max



Max,


If you are running ARC in your setup, there is no need to manually compensate for the output difference between RCA and XLR connections. ARC automatically does that.


Ben


----------



## Texas steve

Bump - Bob or anyone else can you provide me with the info below . Thanks











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21074608
> 
> 
> Bob and John,
> 
> I believe you both are using the D2V with 5.1. My question is for the "mode Presets" (A-H) that you have chosen for your DVD (Bob I think you have the 83 same as me), and Cable/Sat inputs.
> 
> 
> Im not sure I got the optimum settings for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, just a note - I noted that a couple times now when I turn my D2v on it shows 5.1 all speakers in but when I check the screen info it only shows output of LCR! If I reboot all is well. Using the latest Official firmware.
> 
> 
> Thanks Guys - Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bump - Bob or anyone else can you provide me with the info below . Thanks



I have separate Source definitions for Stereo music and for everything else.


The Source for stereo music uses my ARC Music configuration (Center speaker not included). It is Preset to Stereo. If I want, I can manually change that to PLIIx-Music on the fly for surround music listening.


The Source for everything else uses my Movie ARC configuration and is Preset to PLIIx-Movie for stereo content and to None for multi-channel content (since I only use 5.1 speakers).


I don't use THX post processing at all with ARC except for rare discs that sound like the have not been re-equalized for home theater (a bit too much Treble). Note that you can turn on/off THX-Re-equalization separately from the rest of the THX stuff. Press the THX button twice.


That's fairly rare. More common is to find a 1950s or older movie that still has the Academy equalization (Treble boost for commercial theaters) and thus has that olde timey brassy hissy sound. Switch on the fly to Mono-Academy audio mode to fix that.


If the stereo disc I'm watching is of a TV show, I can also switch on the fly to Anthem Logic-Cinema, which is the stereo content Preset I prefer for Cable TV viewing. Meanwhile on the Cable TV Source, I can switch THAT on the fly to PLIIx-Movie if I'm actually watching a stereo movie on Cable.


Again, multi-channel content is easy for me since I only have 5.1 speakers. The only choice is whether or not to use THX, and my preference with ARC is to NOT use THX, except, rarely, for some newer movies that don't have the gross Academy Treble boost, but do still have the more subtle, modern Treble boost which sounds like it has not been removed as part of the transfer to disc.


Now, all that said, keep in mind that there is no "RIGHT" answer here! This is *ALL* a matter of personal preference. So play around and find out what YOU like and then build that into your Mode Presets.


Also note that some content can play havoc with these surround sound algorithms. So if you are playing a stereo movie and PLIIx-movie sounds oddly "wrong", don't hesitate to revert on the fly to plain old Stereo mode.


To change audio Mode on the fly, press Mode once and use Up/Down arrow to cycle through the choices. Your Mode Presets aren't altered and will take effect again when you switch Sources. Note that you will only see the choices that are actually available for the content you are playing and your speaker configuration and THX settings.


(ALSO NOTE: Going into or out of the Setup Menu is implemented as a Source switch. This can be confusing if you've changed Mode on the fly and then go into Setup to check you Mode Presets, as your prior on the fly change will be replaced by your current Preset!)


So if you have 5.1 speakers configured and are playing 5.1 content you will see no Mode choices as you have no Rear speakers needing audio. And if you have THX ON, you won't be able to ALSO apply the Mono-Academy filter Mode.


Another point of confusion is that the Anthem will let you set Mode Presets that can't actually be applied in your configuration -- such as PLIIx for 5.1 content when you only have 5.1 speakers. Not to worry. During actually listening the "correct" Mode ("None" in this case) gets used instead.

--Bob


----------



## maxfli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/21078713
> 
> 
> Max,
> 
> 
> If you are running ARC in your setup, there is no need to manually compensate for the output difference between RCA and XLR connections. ARC automatically does that.
> 
> 
> Ben



Great! Thanks Ben. Not surprised that ARC would match up the volumes, that certainly makes sense.


Max


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks Bob, I think my question was more on what to specifically set the "A-H Mode Presets" when playing DVD Movies (or Sat) since we both have 5:1


Steve


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21079799
> 
> 
> I have separate Source definitions for Stereo music and for everything else.
> 
> 
> The Source for stereo music uses my ARC Music configuration (Center speaker not included). It is Preset to Stereo. If I want, I can manually change that to PLIIx-Music on the fly for surround music listening.
> 
> 
> The Source for everything else uses my Movie ARC configuration and is Preset to PLIIx-Movie for stereo content and to None for multi-channel content (since I only use 5.1 speakers).
> 
> 
> I don't use THX post processing at all with ARC except for rare discs that sound like the have not been re-equalized for home theater (a bit too much Treble). Note that you can turn on/off THX-Re-equalization separately from the rest of the THX stuff. Press the THX button twice.
> 
> 
> That's fairly rare. More common is to find a 1950s or older movie that still has the Academy equalization (Treble boost for commercial theaters) and thus has that olde timey brassy hissy sound. Switch on the fly to Mono-Academy audio mode to fix that.
> 
> 
> If the stereo disc I'm watching is of a TV show, I can also switch on the fly to Anthem Logic-Cinema, which is the stereo content Preset I prefer for Cable TV viewing. Meanwhile on the Cable TV Source, I can switch THAT on the fly to PLIIx-Movie if I'm actually watching a stereo movie on Cable.
> 
> 
> Again, multi-channel content is easy for me since I only have 5.1 speakers. The only choice is whether or not to use THX, and my preference with ARC is to NOT use THX, except, rarely, for some newer movies that don't have the gross Academy Treble boost, but do still have the more subtle, modern Treble boost which sounds like it has not been removed as part of the transfer to disc.
> 
> 
> Now, all that said, keep in mind that there is no "RIGHT" answer here! This is *ALL* a matter of personal preference. So play around and find out what YOU like and then build that into your Mode Presets.
> 
> 
> Also note that some content can play havoc with these surround sound algorithms. So if you are playing a stereo movie and PLIIx-movie sounds oddly "wrong", don't hesitate to revert on the fly to plain old Stereo mode.
> 
> 
> To change audio Mode on the fly, press Mode once and use Up/Down arrow to cycle through the choices. Your Mode Presets aren't altered and will take effect again when you switch Sources. Note that you will only see the choices that are actually available for the content you are playing and your speaker configuration and THX settings.
> 
> 
> (ALSO NOTE: Going into or out of the Setup Menu is implemented as a Source switch. This can be confusing if you've changed Mode on the fly and then go into Setup to check you Mode Presets, as your prior on the fly change will be replaced by your current Preset!)
> 
> 
> So if you have 5.1 speakers configured and are playing 5.1 content you will see no Mode choices as you have no Rear speakers needing audio. And if you have THX ON, you won't be able to ALSO apply the Mono-Academy filter Mode.
> 
> 
> Another point of confusion is that the Anthem will let you set Mode Presets that can't actually be applied in your configuration -- such as PLIIx for 5.1 content when you only have 5.1 speakers. Not to worry. During actually listening the "correct" Mode ("None" in this case) gets used instead.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Didn't I answer that? I use PLIIx-Move (without THX) as the Mode Preset for stereo movie tracks and None for multi-channel tracks. Pretty simple, eh?

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

OK so you set "D" in the mode presets for 5.1PLIIX and the rest "none". Im sorry Bob, Im not getting it. I guess I dont understand what to set "A-H" in Mode Presets to! Sorry to be so thick!!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21086741
> 
> 
> Didn't I answer that? I use PLIIx-Move (without THX) as the Mode Preset for stereo movie tracks and None for multi-channel tracks. Pretty simple, eh?
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21086777
> 
> 
> OK so you set "D" in the mode presets for 5.1PLIIX and the rest "none". Im sorry Bob, Im not getting it. I guess I dont understand what to set "A-H" in Mode Presets to! Sorry to be so thick!!



What you are missing is that lines C through H have no effect if you only have 5.1 speakers.


For Movie viewing Sources, set lines A and B to PLIIx-Movie (without THX), and set C through H to None (or anything else, because "None" is what you will actually get while listening).


For Music listening Sources, set lines A and B to Stereo.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Thanks, yes I was missing that part! When I turned 60 brain waves were altered!! Thanks bob, greatly appreciated!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21086805
> 
> 
> What you are missing is that lines C through H have no effect if you only have 5.1 speakers.
> 
> 
> For Movie viewing Sources, set lines A and B to PLIIx-Movie (without THX), and set C through H to None (or anything else, because "None" is what you will actually get while listening).
> 
> 
> For Music listening Sources, set lines A and B to Stereo.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Bob, so with these settings for 5:1 what happens when I use a Bluray that has DTS-HD. will It be converted to PLIIX? I have the Oppo 83 as well.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21086854
> 
> 
> Thanks, yes I was missing that part! When I turned 60 brain waves were altered!! Thanks bob, greatly appreciated!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't think you have a handle on what these surround modes do. They raise a smaller number of content channels to a larger number of output speakers. If you play a 5.1 DTS-HD MA movie track -- either LPCM or Bitstream -- into your 5.1 speakers, there's nothing for a surround processing mode to do. Thus you get "None" processing.


If you play a 2.0 DTS-HD MA movie track -- again, either LPCM or Bitstream -- then a PLIIx Mode Preset specified for 2.0 surround input will activate PLIIx surround sound processing to raise that 2.0 input to 5.1 speakers output.


Those other lines C-H have to do with different ways of producing sound output for REAR speakers in a 7.1 speaker setup when the input content is 5.1 or 6.1.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob, so with these settings for 5:1 what happens when I use a Bluray that has DTS-HD. will It be converted to PLIIX? I have the Oppo 83 as well.



Yes. PLIIx will work with DTSMA as well if you have 5.1. For 7.1 of course, nothing is required.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21087041
> 
> 
> Yes. PLIIx will work with DTSMA as well if you have 5.1. For 7.1 of course, nothing is required.
> 
> John



Only if you have 7.1 speakers. He has 5.1 speakers, so he'll get "None" processing when playing DTS-HD MA 5.1 or 7.1 tracks.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up canceling the purchase because apparently arc cannot be added to the upgraded avm20hd for some reason .The seller showed me a letter from anthem and they stated that the avm20hd is not compatible with arc upgrade and it cannot get to be upgraded to 50v spec either .Only the avm30 and up can be upgraded to the avm with arc
> 
> 
> I wish that avm20hd could have been upgraded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as I am really desperate to get an anthem product with arc as my rooms not the best shape and I have martin logan speakers to complicate things further .
> 
> 
> I am disappointed that the receivers dont sound as good on HT as the avm50's with arc because my local dealer stocks all the mrx receivers. If I had alot of money I would buy a new avm50v but I dont



The MRX could be a good second choice. While it won't sound as good as an AVM50v, ARC does a very good job on these receivers and the sub correction is almost as good as the pre/pros. I think for the price they are a great alternative.

John


----------



## dbox1080p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21104664
> 
> 
> The MRX could be a good second choice. While it won't sound as good as an AVM50v, ARC does a very good job on these receivers and the sub correction is almost as good as the pre/pros. I think for the price they are a great alternative.
> 
> John



Today i was talking to a seller and he has the avm40 and I said I dont think that would work with hdmi audio like the avm50 and here is his reply in an email........... ",it does have video and audio ,i used hdmi from my blueray to it and it's suport video and audio too" and in his description he add this "i lost the arc,this unit about 1/2 year old".................. Is this statement correct and if so how do I go about adding arc ?


How is ARC added to the avm50 or 40 if I buy from this seller ? where do you get them ?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Today i was talking to a seller and he has the avm40 and I said I dont think that would work with hdmi audio like the avm50 and here is his reply in an email........... ",it does have video and audio ,i used hdmi from my blueray to it and it's suport video and audio too" and in his description he add this "i lost the arc,this unit about 1/2 year old".................. Is this statement correct and if so how do I go about adding arc ?
> 
> 
> How is ARC added to the avm50 or 40 if I buy from this seller ? where do you get them ?



I'm not sure I know what he's talking about. ARC works with the AVM50 by adding a DSP which has more power for correcting sound on the fly. The ARC kit comes with that DSP board, ARC software, a calibrated mic and a mic stand. As a previous poster stated, for around $700. I had this prior to my D2v, and it sounded great.

John


----------



## dbox1080p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21105325
> 
> 
> I'm not sure I know what he's talking about. ARC works with the AVM50 by adding a DSP which has more power for correcting sound on the fly. The ARC kit comes with that DSP board, ARC software, a calibrated mic and a mic stand. As a previous poster stated, for around $700. I had this prior to my D2v, and it sounded great.
> 
> John



I found out all the answers .Anthem emailed me and said that the avm40 is just the same as the 50 but with no video processing .I dont need video processing anyways as I plan on using a 3d pj with the oppo 93


Ok back to the arc. If the seller has had arc but he has "lost it " as he says then wont the hardware already be installed in the avm40 ? Does this mean I could just buy an arc kit from ebay ?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/21105522
> 
> 
> I found out all the answers .Anthem emailed me and said that the avm40 is just the same as the 50 but with no video processing .I dont need video processing anyways as I plan on using a 3d pj with the oppo 93
> 
> 
> Ok back to the arc. If the seller has had arc but he has "lost it " as he says then wont the hardware already be installed in the avm40 ? Does this mean I could just buy an arc kit from ebay ?



Did you look into a MRX


----------



## dbox1080p

Yes.


The dealer near me is called siteonsound and they are a little mom and pop old school audio store . I spoke with the owner about all things audio on the phone ,tubes,pjs, and speakers lol . He told me all about his tour of the anthem factory and how he watched em make martin logan speakers etc


He does not have the MRX 300 left in stock as they sold out and he does not carry the mrx700 at this time . He said he has a few mrx 500's on demo right now and he would love me to come in and listen


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/21105648
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> 
> He does not have the MRX 300 left in stock as they sold out and he does not carry the mrx700 at this time . He said he has a few mrx 500's on demo right now and he would love me to come in and listen



A nearby dealer with something to listen to is a start


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/21105648
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> 
> The dealer near me is called siteonsound and they are a little mom and pop old school audio store . I spoke with the owner about all things audio on the phone ,tubes,pjs, and speakers lol . He told me all about his tour of the anthem factory and how he watched em make martin logan speakers etc
> 
> 
> He does not have the MRX 300 left in stock as they sold out and he does not carry the mrx700 at this time . He said he has a few mrx 500's on demo right now and he would love me to come in and listen



This dealer told you he watched Martin Logan speakers being made at the Anthem factory? I don't think so.


----------



## dbox1080p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/21105688
> 
> 
> This dealer told you he watched Martin Logan speakers being made at the Anthem factory? I don't think so.



Thats what he said and I know that they dont stock martin logan speakers . I am 100% sure he told me that he went to the anthem factory as part of some kinda training thing blah blah


He seems pretty credible because during the conversation he was talking about how he learned vid calibration from one of joe canes ? courses . He said one of the geek squad guys was there and now he is passing on everything he knows to the geek squad .He said $250 for a cal and he's got 15k worth of equipment and you get a 5 page printout


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The MRX could be a good second choice. While it won't sound as good as an AVM50v, ARC does a very good job on these receivers and the sub correction is almost as good as the pre/pros. I think for the price they are a great alternative.
> 
> John



You won't find a better receiver at this price point in my opinion.


----------



## dlynch34

This is a bit off topic but I recall someone discussing a network media streamer for bluray does anyone have any suggestions? I have a nad set up for use.


----------



## dbox1080p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/21105895
> 
> 
> You won't find a better receiver at this price point in my opinion.



My dealer has the mrx500 for $1500 but I may just go with the anthem avm40


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well kids, I've got some good news and some bad news.


First the good news, with some background:


I use a Mac for my computing. The Mac OS comes with a feature called BootCamp which lets you set up a separate disc partition from which you can boot a Microsoft Windows installation. For some years now I've used Windows XP in BootCamp to do the basic setup stuff needed for the Anthem -- firmware installs, ARC setup, backups and such.


About a year ago, something got screwed up in that arrangement which resulted in a substantial slowdown in the Keyspan USB adapter, RS232 serial communication to my D2v. This was most noticeable during firmware installs -- which typically took 90 minutes to complete!


I never did figure out what went wrong. I tried all sorts of stuff to try to fix it, without luck. My guess is that Apple changed something which caused the USB port hardware to be presented strangely to the Keyspan adapter.


Fast forward to today. Apple's new "Lion" operating system for the Macs also includes BootCamp. However BootCamp for Lion no longer supports Windows XP. Simply put, Apple no longer makes the drivers available during a BootCamp install so that Windows XP can get to the Mac hardware.


So I started over with a fresh partition, and installed Windows 7 Home Premium 32-bit edition.


And I'm pleased to say that this new setup WORKS! Firmware installs -- with that same Keyspan adapter -- now take 15 minutes. ARC stuff, etc., also works.


So -- cool!


-------------------------------------------


Now the bad news:


To test this, I installed "test" firmware V2.11b from Anthem's password protected download page. (I had not tried this one earlier since the one change in it is not relevant to me.)


Unfortunately, V2.11b suffers from the same problem I previously reported in the short-lived V2.11c test release. To wit: In my 5.1 speaker configuration, it is frequently the case that the D2v powers up with the LS/RS speakers inoperative -- to the extent that they don't even show as active for output when your press Select enough times (only LF/C/RF/Sub show as active for output). However the hardware IS still good, as those speakers work fine in Stereo ALL mode.


Apparently the only way to be sure you can power up and get the surround speakers working is to make sure the Source first used at power up is sending 2.0 content, and with Anthem Logic-Cinema as the Mode Preset for that Source for 2.0 input. For the details, see my previous posts on V2.11c.


--------------------------------------


So I re-installed V2.11, and everything is back to "normal" again -- and that install ALSO took only 15 minutes.









--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/21105688
> 
> 
> This dealer told you he watched Martin Logan speakers being made at the Anthem factory? I don't think so.



Paradigm, Anthem, Martin Logan are now subsidiaries under ShoreView Industries. Last year, Martin Logan shifted their manufacturing facilities from Kansas to Canada.


Ben


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/21105688
> 
> 
> This dealer told you he watched Martin Logan speakers being made at the Anthem factory? I don't think so.



my brother-in-law works there are they have been making Martin-Logan speakers for quite a few months now


mark


----------



## dbox1080p

Hi guys


I just went ahead and bought the anthem avm40 in glamorous silver color . One good thing about having the anthem dealer within reach is that I can get the arc installed in the machine .I wonder if he installs arc himself or if he sends it to the factory .Anyways I'm just glad I got the anthem and cant wait to start running arc for my funky room


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> I just went ahead and bought the anthem avm40 in glamorous silver color . One good thing about having the anthem dealer within reach is that I can get the arc installed in the machine .I wonder if he installs arc himself or if he sends it to the factory .Anyways I'm just glad I got the anthem and cant wait to start running arc for my funky room



It's easy to install the DSP board so the dealer will likely do it. Good luck with it.

John


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/21107281
> 
> 
> Paradigm, Anthem, Martin Logan are now subsidiaries under ShoreView Industries. Last year, Martin Logan shifted their manufacturing facilities from Kansas to Canada.
> 
> 
> Ben



Thanks for correcting me. I knew Martin Logan had been purchased by another company and the speakers were being made in Canada. I did not know the company was attached to Anthem, I thought they only made Paradigm speakers.


Glad I got my M-L speakers when they were made in Kansas.


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/21107894
> 
> 
> Thanks for correcting me. I knew Martin Logan had been purchased by another company and the speakers were being made in Canada. I did not know the company was attached to Anthem, I thought they only made Paradigm speakers.
> 
> 
> Glad I got my M-L speakers when they were made in Kansas.



Why? Paradigm's manufacturing facilities and test facilities are some of the best in the world. I doubt that the ML's are taking a hit by being manufactured there, for all we know it is a better manufacturing facility than the one they had in Kansas. It certainly would be hard to beat Paradigm's capabilities.


----------



## gbhodge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/21108754
> 
> 
> Why? Paradigm's manufacturing facilities and test facilities are some of the best in the world. I doubt that the ML's are taking a hit by being manufactured there, for all we know it is a better manufacturing facility than the one they had in Kansas. It certainly would be hard to beat Paradigm's capabilities.



I did not say anything negative about Paradigm. I love my M-L speakers (Vantage fronts, Cinema i center, Fresco rears) and I bought them for the Martin Logan sound, not for a Paradigm (or anyone else) sound.


Same reason I have the A51 amp, the Velodyne DD12 and the D2v-I wanted each part of my system for a specific reason. Together, they create the exact sound quality I looked for.


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gbhodge* /forum/post/21107894
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Glad I got my M-L speakers when they were made in Kansas.



Maybe it's because they were American made and not another product of NAFTA.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/21094909
> 
> 
> Am running Summits with ARC. If you have a calibrated room with even frequency reponse, ARC is not so important. But if like my room which exhibits awful modes below 500Hz, ARC works wonders. Can't do without it.
> 
> 
> But remember that dipoles require very careful placements to achieve their best. Then run ARC. Lots of tips available from obliging guys at http://gator11.hostgator.com/~tdacquis/forum/
> 
> 
> Ben



Thanks Ben ...


My room is treated (maybe somewhat to the heavy side). My spires are 2.5ft from the side walls and 3 feet from the front wall. The 35Hz bass knob is set to 0(default) and that makes my bass hot w/o ARC (though pleasant sounding







). But ARC tames that as well. I will have to turn the knob down to maybe -4 or so to flatten the bass response and then (hopefully) ARC will not have to use may resources to perform its EQ and compare the sound with and w/o ARC.


David


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21111448
> 
> 
> Thanks Ben ...
> 
> 
> My room is treated (maybe somewhat to the heavy side). My spires are 2.5ft from the side walls and 3 feet from the front wall. The 35Hz bass knob is set to 0(default) and that makes my bass hot w/o ARC (though pleasant sounding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). But ARC tames that as well. I will have to turn the knob down to maybe -4 or so to flatten the bass response and then (hopefully) ARC will not have to use may resources to perform its EQ and compare the sound with and w/o ARC.
> 
> 
> David



Yes, adjusting the bass control to tame bass peaks first will improve ARC calibration.


Room treatment for ML speakers - what this guy did to his room may interest you.


Ben


----------



## cougar75

Anyone using XLR output to subwoofer instead of rca?? Any problems or negatives??


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75* /forum/post/21112063
> 
> 
> Anyone using XLR output to subwoofer instead of rca?? Any problems or negatives??



I have heard of some folks using the XLR connection from the processor to the sub, and I have not heard anything negative about it. The XLR connection is normally 6db louder than the rca connection. So, give it a try and let your ears tell you what they think.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75* /forum/post/21112063
> 
> 
> Anyone using XLR output to subwoofer instead of rca?? Any problems or negatives??



I have been using XLR output for all processor to amp connections (include rear and subwoofer) with no problem. Usually you can run longer cable length because they have better noise rejection. I find it better to have long XLR connections than long speaker connections.

As one person said the XLR signal 6db higher than rca because it does +V and -V compared to the RCA which use +V and ground. But this is usually taken care in your amp or subwoofer where they have different gain for different input.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75* /forum/post/21112063
> 
> 
> Anyone using XLR output to subwoofer instead of rca?? Any problems or negatives??



Yes, I am feeding my Descent-i with a 15ft XLR interconnect from a D2v. Absolutely no problem. The extra 6dB helps to counter the signal strength loss due to length, so I can keep the sub volume control at a low setting.


Ben


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/21112672
> 
> 
> Yes, I am feeding my Descent-i with a 15ft XLR interconnect from a D2v. Absolutely no problem. The extra 6dB helps to counter the signal strength loss due to length, so I can keep the sub volume control at a low setting.
> 
> 
> Ben


*ARC* corrects for any gain or loss


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/21112672
> 
> 
> Yes, I am feeding my Descent-i with a 15ft XLR interconnect from a D2v. Absolutely no problem. The extra 6dB helps to counter the signal strength loss due to length, so I can keep the sub volume control at a low setting.
> 
> 
> Ben



If you are seeing ANY measurable signal loss over a mere 15 feet of cable you have faulty cables!










Anyway, the 6dB difference is not due to the signal being sent with more "oomph". Rather it is due to the signal being sent TWICE -- one signal either side of ground. At the receiving end one signal is subtracted from the other; the theory being that any interference which penetrated the cable along its length would affect both signals equally and thus would get magically subtracted away. And THAT'S where the advantage comes in when using longer interconnect cables (particularly between Source and pre-amp, or between pre-amp and amp).


Now A - (-A) = 2A, and thus the result at the receiving end is twice the signal level -- 6dB hotter.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75* /forum/post/21112063
> 
> 
> Anyone using XLR output to subwoofer instead of rca?? Any problems or negatives??



As others have stated, there is no problem. XLR is better for long runs. I use XLR on fairly short runs since it protects from interference and reduces chances of ground loop problems.


If you are changing from RCA to XLR you should probably re-run ARC since it will be sending the RCA level signal via XLR. The dynamics betweens speakers and sub may be changed, and to get the best ARC results I would suggest a new ARC run.


ARC will compensate for any volume change in the sub's gain, but I would also suggest going into the Anthem's speaker level menu and seting the sub's level to 75db (using SPL meter) by adjusting the subs gain (the volume knob on the sub, not the adjustment in the Anthem set-up) to make sure that the difference is in ARC's correctible range, before re-running ARC.


Tom


----------



## Mike Lindsey

I am having a problem with receiving an audio and video signal from my D2 to my Samsung PN63C8000 Plasma TV. This just started happening a couple of weeks ago. It started with my having to power on and off the D2 a couple of times, but now its taking 6, 7 and 8 times before I get a picture and sound.


I am using the HDMI output connection between the D2 and the Samsung, and an HDMI cable between the D2 and DirecTV and Oppo BDP-83SE sources. The HDMI cable between the D2 and the TV is a 12' Blue Jeans Cable.


I saw some posts that said to change the batteries on the remote but that didn't help. I also have read that power cycling the D2 using the remote and rear switch might help, but am not real sure how to do this. I don't have real good access to the back panel of the D2, but will move some things around if anyone thinks this might be my issue. Its taking me 20 - 30 minutes to turn my darn system on now and its really getting frustrating.


Any ideas on what else might be causing the problem?


Thanks in advance,

Mike


----------



## rovingtravler

Mike,


Not sure, but you really need to contact Tech support at Anthem with one. If it is not a cable there could be a real issue here.


Do you always turn the TV on first then your D2 then the Cable box?


Try that order and see if it helps. You may not be passing the EDID information.


----------



## Mike Lindsey

I have tried the turn on sequence using different combinations but to no avail. Can you explain how to do the power cycle? I doubt if that is it, but I'm sure that will come in handy at other times. If I can't get this to work then I will definitely call customer support. I hope Bob can chime in at some point.


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/21119357
> 
> 
> I have tried the turn on sequence using different combinations but to no avail. Can you explain how to do the power cycle? I doubt if that is it, but I'm sure that will come in handy at other times. If I can't get this to work then I will definitely call customer support. I hope Bob can chime in at some point.
> 
> 
> Mike



There's nothing fancy to the power cycle. Once you've turned the unit off with the remote, reach behind it and flip the mechanical power switch off -- or just pull the plug -- for about 10 seconds and then turn it back on.


However, what you describe doesn't sound like this is the fix. I suspect you simply have an HDMI plug that's come a little loose in the socket at one end or the other. They are just friction fit, and it's easy for that to happen. Check both ends of every HDMI cable and make sure they are fully inserted straight into the socket without being tugged in any direction by the weight of the cable or whatever.

--Bob


----------



## Mike Lindsey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21119633
> 
> 
> There's nothing fancy to the power cycle. Once you've turned the unit off with the remote, reach behind it and flip the mechanical power switch off -- or just pull the plug -- for about 10 seconds and then turn it back on.
> 
> 
> However, what you describe doesn't sound like this is the fix. I suspect you simply have an HDMI plug that's come a little loose in the socket at one end or the other. They are just friction fit, and it's easy for that to happen. Check both ends of every HDMI cable and make sure they are fully inserted straight into the socket without being tugged in any direction by the weight of the cable or whatever.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob! If it's the cable that'll be a chore replacing it. It is attached to my tv mount and runs thru the wall out to the D2. I'll check it out next time I'm home and report back.


I appreciate the help.


Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey* /forum/post/21119792
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob! If it's the cable that'll be a chore replacing it. It is attached to my tv mount and runs thru the wall out to the D2. I'll check it out next time I'm home and report back.
> 
> 
> I appreciate the help.
> 
> 
> Mike



My guess is that it is NOT the cable, but simply the fit of the plug into the socket.


Keep in mind that HDMI is "end to end" so it could be the HDMI cable from your Source device. Check all HDMI plugs/sockets at both ends of each cable.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Sometimes the weight of the cable pushing down in the plug can cause a make/break or partial connection. I found this even after a year all of a sudden the signal would go. I used some liquid contact enhancer and reset the plug. Its been good now for almost a year.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21119866
> 
> 
> My guess is that it is NOT the cable, but simply the fit of the plug into the socket.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that HDMI is "end to end" so it could be the HDMI cable from your Source device. Check all HDMI plugs/sockets at both ends of each cable.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Rich X

I'm having a problem with an AVM50v that I'm trying to set up. I've searched this thread extensively and have not found anyone with quite the same issue, so hopefully I'm not being redundant.


I'm trying to connect the AVM50v to an InFocus Screenplay 7200 projector over HDMI. Prior to having the AVM50v, I connected all of my sources to the projector over HDMI using a DVDO VP50 video processor with no video problems whatsoever. I bought the AVM50v from a previous owner who said it worked fine for him. Before starting the set-up, I restored all settings to factory defaults. The status indicates that it is running firmware version 2.10. I have not tried to set-up ARC yet.


With the AVM50v I am able to view the OSD with out any real trouble. The projector seems to identify the output from the AVM50v and the picture comes up. However, with any other source I either get no picture at all (sound is fine) or I get a picture briefly (seconds or less) and then it drops out.


Two example sources:


1) Oppo BDP-93: Connected to AVM50v using HDMI1. Sometimes get a picture briefly and then drops out.


2) Cable STB: Connected to AVM50v using Component1. No picture at all. Sometimes projector indicates that it has sensed a signal and is beginning to set up the picture, but the picture never appears. Sound (connected using SPDIF) is fine. When viewing the OSD if I switch to Source Configuration and select this source as if to make changes to the set up, the OSD picture disappears (sounds continues to be fine).


Thanks for any help and suggestions.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rich X* /forum/post/21123595
> 
> 
> I'm having a problem with an AVM50v that I'm trying to set up. I've searched this thread extensively and have not found anyone with quite the same issue, so hopefully I'm not being redundant.
> 
> 
> I'm trying to connect the AVM50v to an InFocus Screenplay 7200 projector over HDMI. Prior to having the AVM50v, I connected all of my sources to the projector over HDMI using a DVDO VP50 video processor with no video problems whatsoever. I bought the AVM50v from a previous owner who said it worked fine for him. Before starting the set-up, I restored all settings to factory defaults. The status indicates that it is running firmware version 2.10. I have not tried to set-up ARC yet.
> 
> 
> With the AVM50v I am able to view the OSD with out any real trouble. The projector seems to identify the output from the AVM50v and the picture comes up. However, with any other source I either get no picture at all (sound is fine) or I get a picture briefly (seconds or less) and then it drops out.
> 
> 
> Two example sources:
> 
> 
> 1) Oppo BDP-93: Connected to AVM50v using HDMI1. Sometimes get a picture briefly and then drops out.
> 
> 
> 2) Cable STB: Connected to AVM50v using Component1. No picture at all. Sometimes projector indicates that it has sensed a signal and is beginning to set up the picture, but the picture never appears. Sound (connected using SPDIF) is fine. When viewing the OSD if I switch to Source Configuration and select this source as if to make changes to the set up, the OSD picture disappears (sounds continues to be fine).
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help and suggestions.



What are your settings for 'video output' configurations ??

When you reset to factory defaults it would have reset the video output configurations to factory default. Make sure that the vieo output configuration is one that your projector can handle.

If , for example, your projector can accept up to 720p for input, and the Anthem is sending out 1080p, your projector would be unable to process the input and you would get a blank screen.


Tom


----------



## Rich X

Tom,


I have the video output resolution set to 1028x720p60. The InFocus SP-7200 is a native 720p projector. It can accept resolutions up to 1080p, but I try to stick closer to native. 1028x720p60 is the resolution I used with the DVDO VP50 feeding the projector with good results. I found that projector could not really handle its pixel by pixel exact native format, but the 1028x720p60 standard format was fine.


When I select a source on the AVM50v there is a set-up indicator that the PJ shows on the screen. This indicator window appears whenever the PJ is processing a new signal. When I select the cable STB source as an example the indicator window shows that it has received a signal on the HDMI input and that the signal's resolution is "720p". It then looks like the PJ is going to set up the picture, there is a brief flash on the screen and then it goes black and the indicator window say "searching..." as if it cannot find the signal anymore.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/21133837
> 
> 
> The DTS hd issue ?



I don't have any more info than what I posted -- news is coming. But of course I'm assuming that's an item on the list.

--Bob


----------



## Rich X




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21124730
> 
> 
> 1) Check the Video Output > HDMI Sync setting. Your display may need the alternate setting
> 
> 
> 2) Simplify by setting the Video Output data size setting to 8-bit. I.E., no Deep Color to the display.
> 
> 
> 3) Simplify by using explicit settings for the Source devices and for Video Output -- not Auto. YCbCr 4:4:4 is the most likely choice to work well.
> 
> 
> 4) The simplest output resolution from Source devices is 480p -- not 480i. Use 480p from Sources until you get this working.
> 
> 
> 5) The simplest output to an HDTV display is 1080i, not 1080p
> 
> 
> 6) While trying to view a Source, press and hold "7" until the Video Source Adjust menu displays. Presuming you can see that, scroll right to the Output tab then scroll down to confirm that Frame Lock is OFF.
> 
> 
> 7) Check your Source Setup definition for each Source and make sure the correct HDMI input jack is specified in the Scaler In line. Double check you are cabled to the correct sockets. Be sure the HDMI plugs are fully inserted straight into the sockets without being tugged in any direction by the weight of the cable or whatever.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, I tried all of these things last night with out much luck. I could get a picture from the DVD player to stay on the screen for a little while, but it would flicker between a regular picture and what I can only describe as "colored snow" for a few seconds.


At one point, switching to other sources and then coming back to the DVD player what should have been black in the picture appeared as a bright purple color.


I could still not get a picture from the cable STB which is connected via component.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well at this point I think you'll need to give Anthem tech support a call and let them diagnose this with you further.

--Bob


----------



## Rich X




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21134811
> 
> 
> Well at this point I think you'll need to give Anthem tech support a call and let them diagnose this with you further.
> 
> --Bob



I connected with Anthem support. They gave me some suggestions. I will try them tonight and post the results.


----------



## adas

Hi, I own an Anthem AVM 50 and I'm having some issues getting audio to work correctly from an HTPC. I read on the first page of this thread that "The D2 support up to 8 channels of 192KHz/24bit digital audio over HDMI 1.1". Is it safe to assume that the AVM 50 also supports 8 channels at 192/24?


Right now my HTPC and PS3 both report that the preamp can only do 6 channels at up to 96. I think this is preventing me from passing DTS-MA and TrueHD soundtracks converted to LPCM to the preamp. When I do, it plays no sound. I can force the PS3 to send the other formats but how can I get the computer to recognize the full audio capabilities of the preamp? Do I need an EDID override? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adas* /forum/post/21139451
> 
> 
> Hi, I own an Anthem AVM 50 and I'm having some issues getting audio to work correctly from an HTPC. I read on the first page of this thread that "The D2 support up to 8 channels of 192KHz/24bit digital audio over HDMI 1.1". Is it safe to assume that the AVM 50 also supports 8 channels at 192/24?
> 
> 
> Right now my HTPC and PS3 both report that the preamp can only do 6 channels at up to 96. I think this is preventing me from passing DTS-MA and TrueHD soundtracks converted to LPCM to the preamp. When I do, it plays no sound. I can force the PS3 to send the other formats but how can I get the computer to recognize the full audio capabilities of the preamp? Do I need an EDID override? Thanks in advance.



A D2 supports 5.1 channels of 96/24 input. it up samples to 192/24 and 7.1 channels. Set the ps3 for pcm output to get DTS-MA. A D2v supports 192/24 and 7.1 channels.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21139506
> 
> 
> A D2 supports 5.1 channels of 96/24 input. it up samples to 192/24 and 7.1 channels. Set the ps3 for pcm output to get DTS-MA. A D2v supports 192/24 and 7.1 channels.



And I believe you must use HDMI.


----------



## adas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21139506
> 
> 
> A D2 supports 5.1 channels of 96/24 input. it up samples to 192/24 and 7.1 channels. Set the ps3 for pcm output to get DTS-MA. A D2v supports 192/24 and 7.1 channels.



I know that the D2 upsamples to 192/24. But I'm a bit confused about what the AVM 50 can take as input so just to clarify. Is the highest audio input that I can send to the AVM 50 5.1 channel at 96/24? When I force my ps3 to 7.1 pcm I can see the 8 channel setting show up on the anthems info screen...


Also, my problem isn't the ps3, I can force those settings. When I try to play DTS-MA on my HTPC I get no sound while all other formats work.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21139521
> 
> 
> And I believe you must use HDMI.



I'm using HDMI.


----------



## dbox1080p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21133577
> 
> 
> When the unit is powering on the front display says "AVM 40" or "AVM 40/ARC" for the first few seconds depending on what's inside. The same applies to AVM 50.
> 
> 
> ARC mics are no longer restricted to any one AVM/D or MRX but the files belonging to the mic are still needed for ARC to run. Tech support can e-mail them if provided with the mic's serial number. Mic kits are still available - contact your local dealer or tech support. ARC DSP cards for AVM 40/50 were discontinued a while ago.



I always thought anthem supported its customers. This means that every avm50 owner out there cant add ARC ?


I wish this information was posted for people like myself to view easily on the anthem website. I bidded on lots of avm50 pre's under the assumption that you can add arc. So I guess if this unit does not have arc then I am stuck with a pre that cant be tuned to a listening room properly


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adas* /forum/post/21139697
> 
> 
> I know that the D2 upsamples to 192/24. But I'm a bit confused about what the AVM 50 can take as input so just to clarify. Is the highest audio input that I can send to the AVM 50 5.1 channel at 96/24? When I force my ps3 to 7.1 pcm I can see the 8 channel setting show up on the anthems info screen...
> 
> 
> Also, my problem isn't the ps3, I can force those settings. When I try to play DTS-MA on my HTPC I get no sound while all other formats work.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using HDMI.



The highest HDMI audio input the original AVM 50 (and original D2) can accept is 5.1 channels, 96KHz, 24 bit.


The AVM 50 can accept 5.1 input and raise it to 7.1 speaker output. I suspect that's the "8 channel setting" you are seeing. Either that or you actually have an AVM 50v, which can accept up to 7.1 as HDMI input.


Are you sure your HTPC is ABLE to output DTS-HD MA as an HDMI Bitstream? Also, you will need to use a video resolution of 720p or higher from it to carry the high bit-rate audio.

--Bob


----------



## adas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21140222
> 
> 
> The highest HDMI audio input the original AVM 50 (and original D2) can accept is 5.1 channels, 96KHz, 24 bit.
> 
> 
> The AVM 50 can accept 5.1 input and raise it to 7.1 speaker output. I suspect that's the "8 channel setting" you are seeing. Either that or you actually have an AVM 50v, which can accept up to 7.1 as HDMI input.



It's definitely an AVM 50. When I force the PS3 to 7.1 the AVM 50 says 8-channel in the on screen info. When it's set to 5.1 the on screen info says 6 channel. Weird that it detects it but can't use it.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21140222
> 
> 
> Are you sure your HTPC is ABLE to output DTS-HD MA as an HDMI Bitstream? Also, you will need to use a video resolution of 720p or higher from it to carry the high bit-rate audio.
> 
> --Bob



The HTPC should be able to do DTS-HD MA bitstreaming. I never tried to set up bitstreaming though, from my understanding the AVM 50 couldn't do it. All I'm trying to get working is DTS-HD MA blurays playing through the HTPC to send the audio as pcm to the preamp. Right now all audio works through pcm except the DTS-HD MA and TrueHD soundtracks.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adas* /forum/post/21140383
> 
> 
> It's definitely an AVM 50. When I force the PS3 to 7.1 the AVM 50 says 8-channel in the on screen info. When it's set to 5.1 the on screen info says 6 channel. Weird that it detects it but can't use it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The HTPC should be able to do DTS-HD MA bitstreaming. I never tried to set up bitstreaming though, from my understanding the AVM 50 couldn't do it. All I'm trying to get working is DTS-HD MA blurays playing through the HTPC to send the audio as pcm to the preamp. Right now all audio works through pcm except the DTS-HD MA and TrueHD soundtracks.



Can the HTPC decode DTS-HD and TrueHD into the PCM stream?


----------



## adas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21140410
> 
> 
> Can the HTPC decode DTS-HD and TrueHD into the PCM stream?



Yes, I'm using Arcsoft TotalMedia 5 which has an option to "mix to uncompressed pcm". All other soundtracks play just fine and show up as PCM on the preamp.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/21140178
> 
> 
> I always thought anthem supported its customers. This means that every avm50 owner out there cant add ARC ?
> 
> 
> I wish this information was posted for people like myself to view easily on the anthem website. I bidded on lots of avm50 pre's under the assumption that you can add arc. So I guess if this unit does not have arc then I am stuck with a pre that cant be tuned to a listening room properly



you may not be able to bitstream thru your HTPC but you should be able to run it thru passthru mode. I do not know your hardware configuration to answer that. Make sure on your HTPC that you have set up the correct playback device in your sound settings. The other thing it could be is your drivers and or codecs installed on you HTPC. I would look at both of them as well.


----------



## jayray

Anyone tried Captain America using PCM from an oppo 83? I get no sound but with bitstreaming I do.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21142226
> 
> 
> Anyone tried Captain America using PCM from an oppo 83? I get no sound but with bitstreaming I do.
> 
> John



Yes, I watched it last night on my OPPO 83 using PCM to my D2. I didn't have any problems.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I watched it last night on my OPPO 83 using PCM to my D2. I didn't have any problems.



I keep trying but PCM doesn't work. I've rebooted my d2v but so far no luck. This a first.

John


----------



## briank12

Hi guys, I just picked up a demo AVM50 w/ ARC from my local dealer. Set up's been easy but now having trouble w/ ARC. When I start ARC, after a few moments I get the error mssg "failed to initialize Wave audio detector" ? I was hoping someone on the forum might know what this might be since unable to call Anthem till Monday.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *briank12* /forum/post/21143177
> 
> 
> Hi guys, I just picked up a demo AVM50 w/ ARC from my local dealer. Set up's been easy but now having trouble w/ ARC. When I start ARC, after a few moments I get the error mssg "failed to initialize Wave audio detector" ? I was hoping someone on the forum might know what this might be since unable to call Anthem till Monday.



ARC uses a part of the Windows system software, the Wave framework, to do audio capture through the mic. If you have a Custom Windows installation (where you pick and choose what gets installed), it is possible the necessary Media portion wasn't installed. You can use your Windows installation discs to add that without having to redo the installation from scratch.


It is also possible you have a hardware conflict with a built-in mic.


If you are using Windows 7, Anthem has a procedure to follow to make sure the ARC mic is the one in use and that it is working through the necessary system software. You can download the PDF file with these instructions from this forum post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post18798459 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21142493
> 
> 
> I keep trying but PCM doesn't work. I've rebooted my d2v but so far no luck. This a first.
> 
> John



Test the basics:


Try HDMI LPCM input from some other Blu-ray disc.


Try playing a CD -- which is of course Stereo LPCM.


ETA: I played "Captain America" using LPCM from my Oppo 93 without problems. That was rental disc so I no longer have it to try on the 83.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/21140178
> 
> 
> I always thought anthem supported its customers. This means that every avm50 owner out there cant add ARC ?
> 
> 
> I wish this information was posted for people like myself to view easily on the anthem website. I bidded on lots of avm50 pre's under the assumption that you can add arc. So I guess if this unit does not have arc then I am stuck with a pre that cant be tuned to a listening room properly



Sorry but there are limits to everything.


The AVM 50 was discontinued in late 2008 though its ARC upgrade kit was available until a couple of months ago. Upgrades are generally available until parts they're made of become unavailable or until sales slow to a pace that continuing to provide them becomes impractical. Both of these reasons apply to the AVM 40/50 ARC kit.


If you do not see a product listed on our web site as a current product then it is safe to assume that it is no longer available. When in doubt you can always inquire by contacting the factory or your local dealer.


At this time there are no hardware upgrades or factory trade-ins for our products*. Production date estimate for the AVM 50v / D2v hardware upgrade that allows 3D and video processor bypass is January.


*The regular ARC kit which does not involve replacing a DSP card is an accessory and will be available well into the foreseeable future.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adas* /forum/post/21140464
> 
> 
> Yes, I'm using Arcsoft TotalMedia 5 which has an option to "mix to uncompressed pcm". All other soundtracks play just fine and show up as PCM on the preamp.



You'll probably have to work this one with Anthem tech support. There are lots of possibilities that need to be sorted through.


Your HTPC may not be picking up the "allowed input" capabilities of the D2v correctly (the EDID transfer portion of the HDMI handshake). Typically EDID issues are more likely to show as video problems. Some folks have found sticking a gadget between the HTPC and the Anthem that captures the EDID from the Anthem and presents it to the HTPC can eliminate problems due to the computer OS changing gears too rapidly as it boots up and establishes the HDMI connection. Gefen HDMI Detective is the usual choice.


Your HTPC may simply have bug in the way it is handling DTS-HD MA. For example, it might have decided it had to use the "compatibility" core DTS track instead due to, say, Secondary Audio mixing and is screwing that up.


Or your HTPC may be having trouble doing the audio copy protection portion of the handshake when using DTS-HD MA audio.

--Bob


----------



## briank12

Thanks a bunch Bob, I'll see if that works.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adas* /forum/post/21139451
> 
> 
> Hi, I own an Anthem AVM 50 and I'm having some issues getting audio to work correctly from an HTPC. I read on the first page of this thread that "The D2 support up to 8 channels of 192KHz/24bit digital audio over HDMI 1.1". Is it safe to assume that the AVM 50 also supports 8 channels at 192/24?
> 
> 
> Right now my HTPC and PS3 both report that the preamp can only do 6 channels at up to 96. I think this is preventing me from passing DTS-MA and TrueHD soundtracks converted to LPCM to the preamp. When I do, it plays no sound. I can force the PS3 to send the other formats but how can I get the computer to recognize the full audio capabilities of the preamp? Do I need an EDID override? Thanks in advance.



D2 and AVM 50 HDMI-in supports 6 channels at 24/96

D2v and AVM 50v HDMI-in supports 8 channels at 24/192


In any case the PS3's HDMI audio auto-detection sets things correctly when connected to any of the above.


Where 7.1 channels cannot be played, Dolby Pro Logic IIx Movie can be used for a 7.1 upmix. I haven't seen anyone reliably claim an audible difference between 7.1 discrete channels vs 5.1 changed to 7.1 when playing a typical soundtrack and the two back speakers are positioned according to the recommended minimum distance of 6 feet behind the listener.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *briank12* /forum/post/21143335
> 
> 
> Thanks a bunch Bob, I'll see if that works.



Also keep in mind that the ARC application has to be "installed" on your Windows PC, and then you run that installed copy (i.e. out of Windows > Program Files -- more commonly by using the Short Cut the Installer leaves on your desktop). You can't just run the UNinstalled copy of the application that's sitting in the ARC install kit you download from the Anthem site.


Use the Setup.Exe program in the ARC install kit to do the install. Copy your pair of ARC license and mic calibration files into that same folder with Setup.Exe BEFORE you run it to do the install. They will then be copied into the proper place as part of the install. These are the two files with names made up of numbers -- the Serial # of your Anthem and the Serial # of your ARC mic.

--Bob


----------



## briank12

Still no luck. I am using Windows 7 on my Sony VAIO. I followed the Windows 7 Mic instructions but still not working. I previously used the same laptop to run ARC on an MRX300 with no problems. The Mic does show the correct mic number and unit serial number on the drop down list along with the old mic# from the MRX. Shortly after I select the mic is when the error mssg come up. It errored out when using the ARC cd that came with it so I updated it to ARC 3.02 but still no luck.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *briank12* /forum/post/21143455
> 
> 
> Still no luck. I am using Windows 7 on my Sony VAIO. I followed the Windows 7 Mic instructions but still not working. I previously used the same laptop to run ARC on an MRX300 with no problems. The Mic does show the correct mic number and unit serial number on the drop down list along with the old mic# from the MRX. Shortly after I select the mic is when the error mssg come up. It errored out when using the ARC cd that came with it so I updated it to ARC 3.02 but still no luck.



Go into Windows Add/Remove programs and Uninstall Anthem Room Correction.


Reboot the computer.


Download a fresh copy of ARC 3.0.2 from the Anthem web site. Then redo the Installation of ARC 3.0.2. Then reboot again.


Does that fix it? If not, you'll likely have to work the problem with Anthem tech support on Monday.


Try to remember what might have changed on this laptop since the last time you used ARC for the MRX without problems.

--Bob


----------



## briank12

Unfortunately still not working with ARC uninstalled and then installed from the website. I guess I'll have to talk to Anthem Tech support on Monday. Thanks for trying to help Bob.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Test the basics:
> 
> 
> Try HDMI LPCM input from some other Blu-ray disc.
> 
> 
> Try playing a CD -- which is of course Stereo LPCM.
> 
> 
> ETA: I played "Captain America" using LPCM from my Oppo 93 without problems. That was rental disc so I no longer have it to try on the 83.
> 
> --Bob



Just haven't had time to try that yet. Thanks Bob,

John


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21143291
> 
> 
> Production date estimate for the AVM 50v / D2v hardware upgrade that allows 3D and video processor bypass is January.



AHHHH, damn! January??? Wow, that seems a bit far off. Some of us could use this much sooner Nick, you know we've waited patiently for some time now  We would pay real dollars for this, and having it sooner would help make Anthem make some extra incremental revenue sooner! Can't we work something out here???


Pretty please???


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> AHHHH, damn! January??? Wow, that seems a bit far off. Some of us could use this much sooner Nick, you know we've waited patiently for some time now  We would pay real dollars for this, and having it sooner would help make Anthem make some extra incremental revenue sooner! Can't we work something out here???
> 
> 
> Pretty please???



It's being beta tested so you don't get an unworkable product









John


----------



## jayray

Tried three sources with PCM and none work, only bitstreaming works.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21145568
> 
> 
> Tried three sources with PCM and none work, only bitstreaming works.
> 
> John



If you list your settings in your OPPO 83, I can check them against my settings to see if something is different. I always use PCM from my 83 to my D2. It's my only choice.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> If you list your settings in your OPPO 83, I can check them against my settings to see if something is different. I always use PCM from my 83 to my D2. It's my only choice.



Thanks Ninja12,

It seems the issue is with D2v. All three sources have the same symptom and nothing has changed in any of them from a settings perspective. Will let Anthem know.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21145700
> 
> 
> Thanks Ninja12,
> 
> It seems the issue is with D2v. All three sources have the same symptom and nothing has changed in any of them from a settings perspective. Will let Anthem know.
> 
> John



Cool.....Good Luck.


----------



## CycloneMike

I have a new Oppo BDP-95 and the Analog XLR output sounds great through the D2v. (I can say that it is just as good as the analog from my Arcam CD192).


The one thing that I did notice is that I had to adjust the analog input level for the 2-channel XLR input by -14.0 dB. The Oppo output is pretty hot. When I first played the input I had distortion, so I immediately went in and adjusted the input and was suprised at the -14.0 requirement. I expected about -6.0 dB, but had to go to -14.0 to get the bars into the green.


Does anybody know if there is a "recommended settings" listing for the Oppo BDP-95 into the D2v? I pulled applicable information off this thread and the BDP-95 thread with searches, but did not know if anyone has compiled the information anywhere.


Thanks!


Mike


----------



## scheong

Hi all,


Got a Harmony One couple of weeks ago and am loving the general ease of use.


I did some searches on Harmony in this thread and found some references to command database updates relating to the D2v. Specifically, I am interested in information that allows the Harmony One to directly go to a selected input (DVD3 for example) without cycling through DVD1 and DVD2 first. Can the Harmony One do the same for the 50v?


Thanx for any help.


Stanley


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes. The three button combos for direct selection of Sources are listed in Appendix A of the Manual. If they are not already available in the Harmony D2v/Avm50v definition you are using, then you'll need to ask Harmony support to add them. They already have them in their database.

--Bob


----------



## scheong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21146108
> 
> 
> Yes. The three button combos for direct selection of Sources are listed in Appendix A of the Manual. If they are not already available in the Harmony D2v/Avm50v definition you are using, then you'll need to ask Harmony support to add them. They already have them in their database.
> 
> --Bob



Thanx Bob. I will contact Harmony support.


Stanley


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/21145949
> 
> 
> I have a new Oppo BDP-95 and the Analog XLR output sounds great through the D2v. (I can say that it is just as good as the analog from my Arcam CD192).
> 
> 
> The one thing that I did notice is that I had to adjust the analog input level for the 2-channel XLR input by -14.0 dB. The Oppo output is pretty hot. When I first played the input I had distortion, so I immediately went in and adjusted the input and was suprised at the -14.0 requirement. I expected about -6.0 dB, but had to go to -14.0 to get the bars into the green.
> 
> 
> Does anybody know if there is a "recommended settings" listing for the Oppo BDP-95 into the D2v? I pulled applicable information off this thread and the BDP-95 thread with searches, but did not know if anyone has compiled the information anywhere.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Mike



Pretty much you just use the defaults. If you are using ANALOG-DSP with that XLR Analog audio input, be sure to go into the ADC settings in the D2v and raise the sampling rate for re-digitizing stereo analog input to 96KHz. (Multi-channel analog input already defaults to that.) NOTE: You have to use ANALOG-DSP if you want ARC to function for that input.


I recommend using 1080p video input from the Oppo rather than Source Direct, as that will let you use the various features in the Oppo like the Zoom modes. EXCEPTION: If you are playing Netflix HD streams, or other 720p content, switch to 720p output from the 95. You can also set 1080p/24 Auto in the Oppo even if your display is not able to handle /24 frame rate video.


For HDMI Audio from the newer Oppos I like to use HDMI Audio LPCM with Secondary Audio ON.

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Last night I wanted to switch from watching a show on my TV to my projector. I had the show up and running on both the TV and PJ, when I turned off the TV the picture went out on the PJ. When I turned the TV back on the PJ pic came on also?????


I have a D2v feeding the TV on HDMI 1 aned PJ HDMI 2.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21153683
> 
> 
> Video processor bypass mode is required for 3D and can be used for 2D. It is enabled by setting Video Out Configuration in the Source Setup menu to Through. This selection only appears when the newer mezzanine board is installed and Scaler In is set to HDMI 1-4. Passthrough operation does not apply to HDMI output 2.
> 
> 
> To answer other inquiries sent to the factory by various readers:
> 
> 
> v2.12c beta may be used with any AVM 50v and D2v but is intended only for hardware beta testers. Production estimate is in January (an estimate is according to best knowledge and not a guarantee).
> 
> 
> Software must be installed _after_ installing hardware to make it operational, not before.



Nick, thanks for the info. Will Audio Return Channel feature be supported in the new software when it becomes production? IE, is that even on the roadmap for you guys? It would be very helpful with all of the native apps now on TV's (Skype, Netflix, Vudu, etc. etc.) to simply use the single HDMI 1 output from the D2V to the set as also the audio return channel for getting the TV's native audio back into the D2V for processing and surround sound. Right now, we have no choice but to run a separate Optical Audio out or the like from the TV back to the D2V for when we use the TV's native apps. Getting rid of 1 more cable would be very nice, and of course the HDMI 1.4 spec supports it, as do most newer displays.


Thanks for your input as always!


----------



## Rich X




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21150175
> 
> 
> Rich,
> 
> Does the DVD player have an RGB/YCbCr format selection? If so try YCbCr 4:2:2 - this is the only one that doesn't result in image flashes and black screen when I play a DVD into my 50v.
> 
> 
> PS - it didn't matter which format the 50v was outputting for me, but as Bob said I never use AUTO just to simplify the handshakes.



I did not test changing that format on the DVD player. I wasn't able to get a stable picture from the DVD Player and I got no picture at all from the Cable STB which was input to the AVM 50v over component.


I went back and forth with Anthem Technical Support a few times, but their suggestions did not work and were somewhat off the mark.


Finally I gave up! I'm keeping my DVDO VP50 and running all of my video sources into it and using it's output for my PJ. I have the audio running into the AVM50v. It is a shame not to be able to use the Anthem for the video processing, but something about the handshake between in and my PJ is not working. The DVDO output into my PJ is rock solid from all sources.


It could be that since the PJ is an older unit it just isn't compatible with the AVM50v using HDMI.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rich X* /forum/post/21157496
> 
> 
> Finally I gave up! I'm keeping my DVDO VP50 and running all of my video sources into it and using it's output for my PJ. I have the audio running into the AVM50v. It is a shame not to be able to use the Anthem for the video processing, but something about the handshake between in and my PJ is not working. The DVDO output into my PJ is rock solid from all sources.



No shame is using the VP50 as it's probably the better video processor. There is an upgrade coming from Anthem that will allow video passthru which should simplify your setup.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/21156140
> 
> 
> I checked out the setup menu and there is no mention or option to do anything called room eq
> 
> 
> I think I just got shafted and hope the seller can make things right with me . So far I am half way through Captain America and its does not sound good as I would have hoped .This is because of the room dimensions and no arc
> 
> 
> When I have been on the ps3 menu and as I scroll down the game demo downloads the picture goes all fuzzy for a second and I hear a loud hiss and the menu goes from 2ch back to 5.1 with each demo picture I select ? I played house of the dead trailer and it lost sync with the picture a couple of times with the pic going all static ?



If you used PayPal, Ebay or a Charge card you may have some recourse if you do not hesitate.


----------



## rovingtravler

Did you get this from 6th AVe electronics? They had old stock of new Anthem products. ie. brand new but years old. So the seller could have sold you a "new/6 month old" AVM 40.


If he or you bought from them it is a stock AVM 40 with no upgrades (no ARC)


----------



## airboyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21106455
> 
> 
> Well kids, I've got some good news and some bad news.
> 
> 
> First the good news, with some background:
> 
> 
> I use a Mac for my computing. The Mac OS comes with a feature called BootCamp which lets you set up a separate disc partition from which you can boot a Microsoft Windows installation. For some years now I've used Windows XP in BootCamp to do the basic setup stuff needed for the Anthem -- firmware installs, ARC setup, backups and such.
> 
> 
> About a year ago, something got screwed up in that arrangement which resulted in a substantial slowdown in the Keyspan USB adapter, RS232 serial communication to my D2v. This was most noticeable during firmware installs -- which typically took 90 minutes to complete!
> 
> 
> I never did figure out what went wrong. I tried all sorts of stuff to try to fix it, without luck. My guess is that Apple changed something which caused the USB port hardware to be presented strangely to the Keyspan adapter.
> 
> 
> Fast forward to today. Apple's new "Lion" operating system for the Macs also includes BootCamp. However BootCamp for Lion no longer supports Windows XP. Simply put, Apple no longer makes the drivers available during a BootCamp install so that Windows XP can get to the Mac hardware.
> 
> 
> So I started over with a fresh partition, and installed Windows 7 Home Premium 32-bit edition.
> 
> 
> And I'm pleased to say that this new setup WORKS! Firmware installs -- with that same Keyspan adapter -- now take 15 minutes. ARC stuff, etc., also works.
> 
> 
> So -- cool!
> 
> 
> --Bob



My bootcamp wouldn't load after upgrading to Lion.


But...


I did find out that Parallels 6 and 7 both work with Windows XP and my USB/Serial adapter on my Intel Macbook Pro now.


----------



## airboyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21039651
> 
> 
> As I understand it the Full Range setting disables the crossover on those speakers, same as the Large setting in other processors.
> 
> 
> The Flat setting disables ARC's low end roll off or high pass(aka subsonic) filter. A high pass filter in this context is a form of protection as it filters out the lowest frequencies below what the subwoofer or speaker can safely handle. Most subs have this and/or other protection built in so there's no need to use it in ARC.
> 
> Most passive speakers do not have a subsonic filter so disabling it in ARC is not recommended. Disabling the crossover and running mains as Full Range is also not recommended, even if they can handle bass down below 20Hz there are numerous reasons to redirect the bass to a dedicated subwoofer.
> 
> 
> If you're mains are producing better bass than you're sub you may need to look at your subs capabilities and positioning and sort that out first.
> 
> 
> Cheers



The answer on "what flat does" from Anthem:


The FLAT setting in ARC allows for no room correction below 20hz, which can be a good thing on some larger speakers in larger rooms. FULL RANGE still treats the speakers as large but limits sub-20hz response to prevent standing waves in certain installs. We recommend using whichever sounds best in your room.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd* /forum/post/21158908
> 
> 
> My bootcamp wouldn't load after upgrading to Lion.
> 
> 
> But...
> 
> 
> I did find out that Parallels 6 and 7 both work with Windows XP and my USB/Serial adapter on my Intel Macbook Pro now.



I deleted the old BootCamp partition (using BootCamp Assistant in Snow Leopard) prior to installing Lion, and then after the Lion install I created a new BootCamp partition (using the new, Lion, BootCamp Assistant) and did a fresh install of Windows 7 into it. No problems for me when doing it that way.


Lion creates a "hidden" Lion Restore partition during its installation and I suspect that affects stuff, particularly if you've already got more than one partition on your main hard drive.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billatlakegeorge* /forum/post/21157142
> 
> 
> Last night I wanted to switch from watching a show on my TV to my projector. I had the show up and running on both the TV and PJ, when I turned off the TV the picture went out on the PJ. When I turned the TV back on the PJ pic came on also?????
> 
> 
> I have a D2v feeding the TV on HDMI 1 aned PJ HDMI 2.



I also run dual displays. Whenever you turn off/on a display the Anthem/display run through a HDMI handshake, once that is completed the picture will be displayed. The handshake can take some time so be patient as the picture should return. If there is no picture after several minutes then power cycle the Anthem, if that doesn't work there may be a problem.


Cheers


----------



## bluemark81

I recently changed over from Bell Expressvu Satellite to Bell Fiberop (Motorola VIP1232) and one thing I am noticing is that when I am watching a recorded program and skip forward through a commercial, I often will lose my audio. I have to turn my D2v off and back on for it to come back. With Fiberop, I am using HDMI. Has anyone else experienced this with theirs? Any suggestions?


Additional info: One thing that is a common issue that I also had with the Bell Expressvu system is often times the volume level seemed to take a quick dip. It happens quickly so its hard to really detect what is actually happening. It may even be switching audio codec types. Not really sure, but there is an audible dip occurring occasionally.


I am running the most up to date software. 2.10


Thanks


----------



## Bruceko

I am thinking of replacing my D2 with something more up to date.

The D2v is a consideration but what other pre Pro's would be on your short list to consider.

I want something with

Room correction

2 hdmi outputs

1.4 compliant

It sure would be nice to have an ethernet connection for software updates


----------



## Rich X




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21158147
> 
> 
> No shame is using the VP50 as it's probably the better video processor. There is an upgrade coming from Anthem that will allow video passthru which should simplify your setup.



Probably true...I was just hoping that getting the AVM 50v would allow me to unload the VP50 for some cash to put into other things...not to be.


Though, I have to say I'm really enjoying what the ARC system has been able to to for the audio in my room. I have only listened for a few hours at this point, but so far I'm really pleased.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/21160257
> 
> 
> I am thinking of replacing my D2 with something more up to date.
> 
> The D2v is a consideration but what other pre Pro's wold be on your short list to consider.
> 
> I want something with
> 
> Room correction
> 
> 2 hdmi outputs
> 
> 1.4 compliant
> 
> It sure would be nice to have an ethernet connection for software updates



the D2v has the best room correction and has an upgrade to 1.4 hdmi coming shortly. I don't find the present updating procedure that onerous but then that's me.

John


----------



## billatlakegeorge




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21159401
> 
> 
> I also run dual displays. Whenever you turn off/on a display the Anthem/display run through a HDMI handshake, once that is completed the picture will be displayed. The handshake can take some time so be patient as the picture should return. If there is no picture after several minutes then power cycle the Anthem, if that doesn't work there may be a problem.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Thanks for your reply. It does work fine if I power cycle the D2v, but this just started happening. It has worked fine in the past.


----------



## wnba

Dose anthem has the plan of updating d2v for Dolby Pro logic iiz, without hardware updating? The added Front height channels are really wonderful.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wnba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Dose anthem has the plan of updating d2v for Dolby Pro logic iiz, without hardware updating? The added Front height channels are really wonderful.



I doubt it.

John


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/21155056
> 
> 
> Well today I unpacked the anthem avm40 and powered it up and all it reads is anthem avm40 a/v processor ? Now I dont ever have any hope of running arc
> 
> 
> I dont understand it though because the seller said it was only 6 month old so it should have hit the shelf's with arc installed
> 
> 
> Is it possible that the dsp board is inside but the software was never installed ?
> 
> 
> I hit the status button and it reads avm40 v1.33 day and time. When I peak inside the pcb is a red color
> 
> 
> Is there any way I can find out more about this machine via the serial number on the back ?



I thought the AVM40 was discontinued years ago? So how could it be only six months old? I wonder if they meant "only used for six months."


Seems *very* fishy to me.


----------



## briank12

Previously I reported that I was receiving an error mssg when trying to run ARC on an AVM50 with Windows 7 home premium,"Failed to intialize Wave audio capture device". I have since resolved the problem and wanted to post the fix in case anyone else runs into this. The Anthem AVM50 was designed to be run with Windows XP, so I just upgraded my Windows 7 home premium to Windows 7 Professional which allows you to download a Windows XP virtual mode. I did that and then loaded the ARC software into the XP virtual mode but then ARC was not able to locate the Anthem. I had to go to Tripp-lite's website and search for the Keyspan adaptor driver by model number. I downloaded, extracted and installed the Keyspan driver and now I finally have ARC working.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *briank12* /forum/post/21166582
> 
> 
> Previously I reported that I was receiving an error mssg when trying to run ARC on an AVM50 with Windows 7 home premium,"Failed to intialize Wave audio capture device". I have since resolved the problem and wanted to post the fix in case anyone else runs into this. The Anthem AVM50 was designed to be run with Windows XP, so I just upgraded my Windows 7 home premium to Windows 7 Professional which allows you to download a Windows XP virtual mode. I did that and then loaded the ARC software into the XP virtual mode but then ARC was not able to locate the Anthem. I had to go to Tripp-lite's website and search for the Keyspan adaptor driver by model number. I downloaded, extracted and installed the Keyspan driver and now I finally have ARC working.



I have no problems with windows home premium and ARC.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have no problems with windows home premium and ARC.



Neither do I.

John


----------



## tngiloy

]


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *briank12* /forum/post/21166582
> 
> 
> Previously I reported that I was receiving an error mssg when trying to run ARC on an AVM50 with Windows 7 home premium,"Failed to intialize Wave audio capture device". I have since resolved the problem and wanted to post the fix in case anyone else runs into this. The Anthem AVM50 was designed to be run with Windows XP, so I just upgraded my Windows 7 home premium to Windows 7 Professional which allows you to download a Windows XP virtual mode. I did that and then loaded the ARC software into the XP virtual mode but then ARC was not able to locate the Anthem. I had to go to Tripp-lite's website and search for the Keyspan adaptor driver by model number. *I downloaded, extracted and installed the Keyspan driver and now I finally have ARC working.*



I also have had no problems with windows7 home premium and ARC.


IIRC, the first time I plugged in the Keyspan adapter into my laptop it automatically searched for and downloaded the correct Keyspan driver.


I would guess if you had downloaded the driver firsrt that it would have worked. But that's hindsight.


If anyone else encounters this problem the driver download can be found on the Trpp Lite webpage.
http://www.tripplite.com/en/products...xtModelID=3914 

under the downloads.


Tom


----------



## dbox1080p

If someone has the arc dsp board installed on their anthem avm50 is it possible to take it back off and sell it to another anthem avm user


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/21167229
> 
> 
> If someone has the arc dsp board installed on their anthem avm50 is it possible to take it back off and sell it to another anthem avm user



OMG - we all told you to buy an MRX - now you are trying to BUILD ONE


----------



## dbox1080p

Well a receivers just not going to cut it for me I need a pre so I can run balanced connections to a theta intrepid .Its in my best interests to find a dsp arc board either new or not .This is why I ask the question ......If someone has the arc dsp board installed on their anthem avm50 is it possible to take it back off and sell it to another anthem avm user?


There is alot of folks out there with an arc dsp board on their avm 50 that may be willing to sell for a price


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/21167377
> 
> 
> Well a receivers just not going to cut it for me I need a pre so I can run balanced connections to a theta intrepid



Unbalanced outputs work fine.


I Own a D2 and all my AMPS have balanced inputs.


I DO NOT USE Balanced inputs. The few amps that

only have Balanced inputs - I use an Adapter.


----------



## jbtco

I have acquired 2 Dynaudio subs to use with my set up. They allow either to set both up as master and calibrate individually or one as master and the other as slave. Any thoughts on which is best. I assume that for Arc the 2 subs should be set up before running Arc whether being used as 2 masters or master slave.


----------



## briank12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21167131
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> I also have had no problems with windows7 home premium and ARC.
> 
> 
> IIRC, the first time I plugged in the Keyspan adapter into my laptop it automatically searched for and downloaded the correct Keyspan driver.
> 
> 
> I would guess if you had downloaded the driver firsrt that it would have worked. But that's hindsight.
> 
> 
> If anyone else encounters this problem the driver download can be found on the Trpp Lite webpage.
> http://www.tripplite.com/en/products...xtModelID=3914
> 
> under the downloads.
> 
> 
> Tom




Just to clarify, Windows 7 home premium works fine with ARC on MRX receivers, the AVM50v & D2v. Mine is the older AVM50 that requires Windows XP for ARC. I had a MRX receiver prior to the AVM50 and my Windows 7 home premium worked fine. The driver for the Keyspan adapter also automatically loaded the driver when first plugged into Windows 7 home premium but for some reason the Windows XP mode is like a separate "virtual" computer and the drivers do not transfer over from Windows 7 nor did it auto upload the driver into the XP mode like it did with Windows 7. I expected the keyspan driver to work in XP mode so that's why I didn't download it to the virtual machine XP mode. No biggie, it was easy to find and download. Just glad it's working now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *briank12* /forum/post/21168577
> 
> 
> Just to clarify, Windows 7 home premium works fine with ARC on MRX receivers, the AVM50v & D2v. Mine is the older AVM50 that requires Windows XP for ARC. I had a MRX receiver prior to the AVM50 and my Windows 7 home premium worked fine. The driver for the Keyspan adapter also automatically loaded the driver when first plugged into Windows 7 home premium but for some reason the Windows XP mode is like a separate "virtual" computer and the drivers do not transfer over from Windows 7 nor did it auto upload the driver into the XP mode like it did with Windows 7. I expected the keyspan driver to work in XP mode so that's why I didn't download it to the virtual machine XP mode. No biggie, it was easy to find and download. Just glad it's working now.



First, I'm glad you got it working!


But as far as I know, yours is the first report that ARC V3.0.2 and AVM 50 firmware V1.33 don't work well together when using Windows 7 (as opposed to Windows XP). The only problem I know of with ARC and Windows 7 is setup conflicts with built-in computer mics -- a problem which would affect ARC use with any of the Anthem units. That PDF file I linked to above shows the procedure to make sure that doesn't happen and to check that the ARC mic is working.


I'm pretty sure we've got lots of original D2 and original AVM 50/ARC owners posting here who are successfully using ARC under Windows 7. When Windows 7 first came out, there was definitely a problem with ARC, but that was fixed by a new ARC version that came out well over a year ago. There was a separate problem with folks trying to run both ARC and PBK software on the same Windows computer, but that too was fixed long ago.


Of course I'd love to know for sure WHY ARC was giving you fits, but practically speaking, if your Windows XP emulated environment is working just fine for ARC now, then "don't fix it"!









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/21167229
> 
> 
> If someone has the arc dsp board installed on their anthem avm50 is it possible to take it back off and sell it to another anthem avm user



They'd have to re-install the original DSP board -- if they still have it -- and re-install the firmware. Otherwise they'd end up with no audio. But yes, as far as I know it is not a one way change. Although WHY any AVM 50/ARC owner might want to do that is beyond me. NOTE: Anyone who bought an AVM 50/ARC from the factory, as opposed to upgrading an AVM 50 without ARC by swapping out the DSP board, would, of course, not have the original DSP board in the first place.


You'd need to get the rest of the ARC kit from them as well: Calibrated mic, mic stand, mic cable, and the two files that need to be included with the ARC software install on the Windows PC (license file, and mic calibration file matching that mic). The software install itself is just a download from the Anthem site.


Seriously, at this point, if you can't undo your purchase, your best recourse is likely to sell the unit you bought (cut your losses) and get a replacement unit that comes with ARC. It is possible that an Anthem dealer might take pity on you and give you a break on a trade-in.

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *briank12* /forum/post/21168577
> 
> 
> Just to clarify, Windows 7 home premium works fine with ARC on MRX receivers, the AVM50v & D2v. Mine is the older AVM50 that requires Windows XP for ARC. I had a MRX receiver prior to the AVM50 and my Windows 7 home premium worked fine. The driver for the Keyspan adapter also automatically loaded the driver when first plugged into Windows 7 home premium but for some reason the Windows XP mode is like a separate "virtual" computer and the drivers do not transfer over from Windows 7 nor did it auto upload the driver into the XP mode like it did with Windows 7. I expected the keyspan driver to work in XP mode so that's why I didn't download it to the virtual machine XP mode. No biggie, it was easy to find and download. Just glad it's working now.



I have a D1HD, far older than an AVM50. I have no problems with windows home premium and ARC. The processors only see a serial port and can't know the difference between Windows 7, XP or a Creston control system.


----------



## cougar75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/21167229
> 
> 
> If someone has the arc dsp board installed on their anthem avm50 is it possible to take it back off and sell it to another anthem avm user




You might try emailing as many Anthem dealers you can and see if they possibly have one laying around that got ordered but never installed. You never know.


----------



## chileboy

As many of you probably know, 6th Ave. Electronics is undergoing liquidation - I've been wanting an new preamp/processor and always looked at the Anthems, but hadn't researched them for awhile because I haven't had the funds. I've been using a B&K Reference 50 (in conjunction with their Reference 200.7 power amplifier) for years and have been quite happy.


But when I saw the AVM50 listed in the 6th Ave ad, I went to the Anthem site and did a scan of the specs for the AVM50V, and ran out to 6th Ave and grabbed one, thinking it was the same model - but of course it is not.


When I realized that, my first move was to read up on the archived specs for the AVM50, and with sinking heart realized it did not support the newer HD codecs (DTS-MA, DD TrueHD, et. al.) That was, unfortunately, the main reason I bought it.


I know, shame on me. I am usually far from an impulse buyer, in fact, I tend to over-analyze, but this time I screwed up.


When I found this thread and started scanning it, I was at first hopeful because it looked like the unit could be upgraded, but then I saw more recent posts that indicated the upgrade program had been discontinued and, anyway, I saw one note indicating the upgrade price was in the neighborhood of $4K anyway, which I could never swing right now.


I did see a couple of posts that implied perhaps I could send the HD signals in a format that would work, but after reading a lot of mostly-unrelated posts in the 1000+ pages here, I am still unclear as to if this will do what I want.


So, the situation is, my Blu-ray player is a PS3 - can I somehow make this work so that I can avail myself of the HD audio tracks? In every other regard, it was love at first sight with the AVM50.


As an aside, I do see it is one of the later models with ARC factory-installed, if that makes any difference.


I apologize in advance if I've missed some relevant posts here which address my question.


Many thanks,


- Mark


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy* /forum/post/21173851
> 
> 
> As many of you probably know, 6th Ave. Electronics is undergoing liquidation - I've been wanting an new preamp/processor and always looked at the Anthems, but hadn't researched them for awhile because I haven't had the funds. I've been using a B&K Reference 50 (in conjunction with their Reference 200.7 power amplifier) for years and have been quite happy.
> 
> 
> But when I saw the AVM50 listed in the 6th Ave ad, I went to the Anthem site and did a scan of the specs for the AVM50V, and ran out to 6th Ave and grabbed one, thinking it was the same model - but of course it is not.
> 
> 
> When I realized that, my first move was to read up on the archived specs for the AVM50, and with sinking heart realized it did not support the newer HD codecs (DTS-MA, DD TrueHD, et. al.) That was, unfortunately, the main reason I bought it.
> 
> 
> I know, shame on me. I am usually far from an impulse buyer, in fact, I tend to over-analyze, but this time I screwed up.
> 
> 
> When I found this thread and started scanning it, I was at first hopeful because it looked like the unit could be upgraded, but then I saw more recent posts that indicated the upgrade program had been discontinued and, anyway, I saw one note indicating the upgrade price was in the neighborhood of $4K anyway, which I could never swing right now.
> 
> 
> I did see a couple of posts that implied perhaps I could send the HD signals in a format that would work, but after reading a lot of mostly-unrelated posts in the 1000+ pages here, I am still unclear as to if this will do what I want.
> 
> 
> So, the situation is, my Blu-ray player is a PS3 - can I somehow make this work so that I can avail myself of the HD audio tracks? In every other regard, it was love at first sight with the AVM50.
> 
> 
> As an aside, I do see it is one of the later models with ARC factory-installed, if that makes any difference.
> 
> 
> I apologize in advance if I've missed some relevant posts here which address my question.
> 
> 
> Many thanks,
> 
> 
> - Mark



Have the PS3 send the audio as a PCM stream and you are good to go. The PS3 can encode the lossless formats into the PCM stream. Hope you got ARC with the unit.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The PS3 is a good match for use with the original AVM 50. Set the PS3 to HDMI LPCM audio output. Also disable the check boxes for 7.1 audio output (the AVM 50 will only accept up to 5.1 audio, although it can then raise that to 7.1 speakers for output). The automatic setup in the PS3 should do all of this for you all by itself. The AVM 50 is also limited to no higher than 96KHz audio input.


The high bit rate Bitstream formats (TrueHD and DTS-HD MA) are just methods for packing up multi-channel LPCM audio into a more compact form. They have to be decoded into LPCM anyway whenever they are used. So letting the PS3 do the decode into LPCM for you is a perfectly valid way to listen to those tracks. If you play a 7.1 track, it will down-mix the rears into the sides and send 5.1 to the AVM 50. The tracks are designed with this in mind.


If your AVM 50 does indeed have ARC then it will identify itself as an "AVM 50/ARC" in the front panel as it powers up. You should also have the rest of the ARC kit: The ARC mic, the mic stand, the long mic cable, and an install disc which includes one particularly important file which is the file of mic calibration data matching your particular ARC mic.

--Bob


----------



## aus

So I've gone back to catch up over the last 10+ pages.

MY HDMI output seems to have died on my AMV50 without ARC. I was kind of looking forward to sending it in for repairs since it's still under warranty and to get ARC. Now it seems it's not available anymore and there's not trade in option until Jan.


What's coming out in Jan 2012? Is it just AVM50v production is shut down for now? Or is it another upgrade? It kind of sucks having everything go through the AVM50 but the HDMI output not work. I connected an HDMI directly to the MOXI box and it works fine. I switched out HDMI cables and still not picture. I didn't work on the system or move anything around. There's still sound but the picture is black with the blue screen occasionally flickering on.


Any recommendations on what do to? I could wait until Jan if that's whats best.

.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aus* /forum/post/21174000
> 
> 
> So I've gone back to catch up over the last 10+ pages.
> 
> MY HDMI output seems to have died on my AMV50 without ARC. I was kind of looking forward to sending it in for repairs since it's still under warranty and to get ARC. Now it seems it's not available anymore and there's not trade in option until Jan.
> 
> 
> What's coming out in Jan 2012? Is it just AVM50v production is shut down for now? Or is it another upgrade? It kind of sucks having everything go through the AVM50 but the HDMI output not work. I connected an HDMI directly to the MOXI box and it works fine. I switched out HDMI cables and still not picture. I didn't work on the system or move anything around. There's still sound but the picture is black with the blue screen occasionally flickering on.
> 
> 
> Any recommendations on what do to? I could wait until Jan if that's whats best.
> 
> .



Give Anthem tech support a call and they'll walk you through diagnosing this.


Typical things to try are to reset factory defaults and try a simple output resolution like 480p to see if you can get the built in graphics to display (on screen volume displays, Setup menu, Video Source Adjust menu). Check both choices for HDMI Sync in Setup > Video Output. Focus on getting the internally generated stuff to display first, then worry about getting Source devices working as a next step.


Another step, short of sending the unit in for service, is to try a re-install of the firmware.


Again, Anthem can help you work through the possibilities here.

--Bob


----------



## nycjazz

I got my avm50v and I could'nt be happier...except that for the fact that the ARC does not come with the CD and I know it does not match the serial number (as the seller told me he had gotten it from another unit). I have all the hardware, including mic with the serial number (i know it is different than my avm50v serial #) and when I opened the instructions for the set up the first thing it said was that I needed the CD (don't have) and that the mic and the unit must be matching numbers. Is this something that Anthem could just send me (i mean, they should have a backup file somewhere!). Please help, this Sunday is not starting well...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got my avm50v and I could'nt be happier...except that for the fact that the ARC does not come with the CD and I know it does not match the serial number (as the seller told me he had gotten it from another unit). I have all the hardware, including mic with the serial number (i know it is different than my avm50v serial #) and when I opened the instructions for the set up the first thing it said was that I needed the CD (don't have) and that the mic and the unit must be matching numbers. Is this something that Anthem could just send me (i mean, they should have a backup file somewhere!). Please help, this Sunday is not starting well...



Call Anthem on Monday, they should be able to help. The AVM 50v comes with ARC, so I don't know why the previous owner had someone else's kit. Something fishy here. Is it an AVM50v or AVM50?

John


----------



## terryshep

Anthem D2v could any one tell me if these are now hdmi v1.4 as im about to buy one

im in the uk


thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anthem D2v could any one tell me if these are now hdmi v1.4 as im about to buy one
> 
> im in the uk
> 
> 
> thanks



No but Anthem is coming out with a 1.4 hdmi upgrade which will give you 4, 1.4 inputs, to allow for 3D. They're being beta tested now.

John


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21173878
> 
> 
> Have the PS3 send the audio as a PCM stream and you are good to go. The PS3 can encode the lossless formats into the PCM stream. Hope you got ARC with the unit.



and



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21173980
> 
> 
> The PS3 is a good match for use with the original AVM 50. Set the PS3 to HDMI LPCM audio output. Also disable the check boxes for 7.1 audio output (the AVM 50 will only accept up to 5.1 audio, although it can then raise that to 7.1 speakers for output). The automatic setup in the PS3 should do all of this for you all by itself. The AVM 50 is also limited to no higher than 96KHz audio input.
> 
> 
> The high bit rate Bitstream formats (TrueHD and DTS-HD MA) are just methods for packing up multi-channel LPCM audio into a more compact form. They have to be decoded into LPCM anyway whenever they are used. So letting the PS3 do the decode into LPCM for you is a perfectly valid way to listen to those tracks. If you play a 7.1 track, it will down-mix the rears into the sides and send 5.1 to the AVM 50. The tracks are designed with this in mind.
> 
> 
> If your AVM 50 does indeed have ARC then it will identify itself as an "AVM 50/ARC" in the front panel as it powers up. You should also have the rest of the ARC kit: The ARC mic, the mic stand, the long mic cable, and an install disc which includes one particularly important file which is the file of mic calibration data matching your particular ARC mic.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you both so much, I feel much better!


Right now I only have a 5.1 setup anyway, so that isn't a concern for me.


This is definitely an ARC unit, it says so on the box, and it's on a sticker on the back of the unit itself. And yes, the unopened ARC kit is there as well. (Pretty interesting about the matching file for the individual mic, BTW.)


Understood about max 96KHz input. What else am I lacking on the 50 vs. 50v? Do I need to be concerned in particular about the new HDMI 1.4 spec?


Thanks again, I really appreciate the fast and informative responses.










- Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got my avm50v and I could'nt be happier...except that for the fact that the ARC does not come with the CD and I know it does not match the serial number (as the seller told me he had gotten it from another unit). I have all the hardware, including mic with the serial number (i know it is different than my avm50v serial #) and when I opened the instructions for the set up the first thing it said was that I needed the CD (don't have) and that the mic and the unit must be matching numbers. Is this something that Anthem could just send me (i mean, they should have a backup file somewhere!). Please help, this Sunday is not starting well...



Call Anthem tech support and give them the serial number of your AVM 50v (back panel) and of your ARC mic (the mic or its box). These will ALWAYS be two different numbers. Be sure to tell them you have an AVM 50v, not the older AVM 50.


They can then generate and email to you the two small files: The ARC license and the individualized mic calibration file. Since you have an AVM 50v you may in fact only need the one, mic calibration file as all those units are licensed for ARC.


Meanwhile, download and Unzip the ARC 3.0.2 install kit from the Anthem site. Go into the resulting folder and find the Setup.exe program (the installer itself). When you get the 1or 2 files from Anthem -- they will have names made up from your 2 serial numbers -- copy them into the same place as that Setup.exe program and then run it to do the install on your Windows PC. You will not need the original ARC install CD at all.


Be sure to backup the 1 or 2 files you get from Anthem in a safe place.


Typically the reason the CD no longer matches is that the seller had service at some point that replaced the ARC mic or the main board in the Anthem -- thus a serial number changed. This is no big deal. But he ought to still have the NEW pair of files on whatever computer he was using. No matter. Anthem can get them to you.


IMPORTANT NOTE: Do NOT use files, such as the ones on that CD, that do not match the serial numbers of your Anthem and your ARC mic, as doing so will produce useless ARC results since the mic calibration data will be incorrect.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy* /forum/post/21175616
> 
> 
> Thank you both so much, I feel much better!
> 
> 
> Right now I only have a 5.1 setup anyway, so that isn't a concern for me.
> 
> 
> This is definitely an ARC unit, it says so on the box, and it's on a sticker on the back of the unit itself. And yes, the unopened ARC kit is there as well. (Pretty interesting about the matching file for the individual mic, BTW.)
> 
> 
> Understood about max 96KHz input. What else am I lacking on the 50 vs. 50v? Do I need to be concerned in particular about the new HDMI 1.4 spec?
> 
> 
> Thanks again, I really appreciate the fast and informative responses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Mark



There used to be a comparison chart on the Anthem site that showed the differences. In addition to the audio differences, the newer unit has more HDMI inputs, a 2nd HDMI video output, and an upgraded video processor. It also has Dolby Volume support although that has proven to be a great disappointment.


Your Anthem has HDMI V1.3 hardware. The HDMI V1.4 stuff is only relevant to folks running 3D. If you want to view 3D now you will need to bypass the Anthem for video while viewing 3D -- i.e., cable direct to the 3D display. It is helpful to have a Blu-ray player like the newer Oppo units with two HDMI outputs -- one to go to the TV for video and the other to go to the Anthem for audio.

--Bob


----------



## rovingtravler

Also single vs dual DSP chips. and as stated above 10 bit vs 12 bit video


----------



## aus

Has Anthem given any news as to what's going to come out in January? Nick mentioned production would start Jan 2012, but I didn't see anything about what's coming out?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's apparently the upgrade to add 3D pass-through support on half the inputs and one of the two outputs.

--Bob


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21175819
> 
> 
> There used to be a comparison chart on the Anthem site that showed the differences. In addition to the audio differences, the newer unit has more HDMI inputs, a 2nd HDMI video output, and an upgraded video processor. It also has Dolby Volume support although that has proven to be a great disappointment.
> 
> 
> Your Anthem has HDMI V1.3 hardware. The HDMI V1.4 stuff is only relevant to folks running 3D. If you want to view 3D now you will need to bypass the Anthem for video while viewing 3D -- i.e., cable direct to the 3D display. It is helpful to have a Blu-ray player like the newer Oppo units with two HDMI outputs -- one to go to the TV for video and the other to go to the Anthem for audio.
> 
> --Bob



Not sure any of that has great meaning to me - although the upgraded video processor might be nice. Right now I am using a DVDO iScan HD+ as my processor - my B&K pre/pro doesn't do video processing - obviously I'm going to compare the DVDO to the AVM50. I'm thinking the Anthem will be better, if only because it's newer technology, and it would certainly simplify my setup.


I don't have a 3D display (or player) right now either, but when, and if, I go that route, you've told me what I need to know.


Not to belabor the point, but just to clarify: if I had the AVM50v, I'd send the PS3 output via bitstream, the decoding would happen at the 50v, and the display on the 50v would say "DD TrueHD" (or whatever) - whereas with my AVM50 the decoding happens at the PS3, it's sent via LPCM, and the display on the AVM50 will read something like "DD 5.1" - is that accurate? Is there any (potential) difference in sonics, better or worse, in the two scenarios?


Thanks again for your help and patience.


- Mark


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy* /forum/post/21177356
> 
> 
> Not sure any of that has great meaning to me - although the upgraded video processor might be nice. Right now I am using a DVDO iScan HD+ as my processor - my B&K pre/pro doesn't do video processing - obviously I'm going to compare the DVDO to the AVM50. I'm thinking the Anthem will be better, if only because it's newer technology, and it would certainly simplify my setup.
> 
> 
> I don't have a 3D display (or player) right now either, but when, and if, I go that route, you've told me what I need to know.
> 
> 
> Not to belabor the point, but just to clarify: if I had the AVM50v, I'd send the PS3 output via bitstream, the decoding would happen at the 50v, and the display on the 50v would say "DD TrueHD" (or whatever) - whereas with my AVM50 the decoding happens at the PS3, it's sent via LPCM, and the display on the AVM50 will read something like "DD 5.1" - is that accurate? Is there any (potential) difference in sonics, better or worse, in the two scenarios?
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your help and patience.
> 
> 
> - Mark



There will be no difference in sound sending LPCM to and AVM50.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure any of that has great meaning to me - although the upgraded video processor might be nice. Right now I am using a DVDO iScan HD+ as my processor - my B&K pre/pro doesn't do video processing - obviously I'm going to compare the DVDO to the AVM50. I'm thinking the Anthem will be better, if only because it's newer technology, and it would certainly simplify my setup.
> 
> 
> I don't have a 3D display (or player) right now either, but when, and if, I go that route, you've told me what I need to know.
> 
> 
> Not to belabor the point, but just to clarify: if I had the AVM50v, I'd send the PS3 output via bitstream, the decoding would happen at the 50v, and the display on the 50v would say "DD TrueHD" (or whatever) - whereas with my AVM50 the decoding happens at the PS3, it's sent via LPCM, and the display on the AVM50 will read something like "DD 5.1" - is that accurate? Is there any (potential) difference in sonics, better or worse, in the two scenarios?
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your help and patience.
> 
> 
> - Mark



The display will read PCM.

John


----------



## mookie b

Hi, I haven't been posting much as my AMV50v has been awesome and haven't had any issues....


I'm thinking about picking up another subwoofer today....I already have one connected XLR to XLR. Any issue in hooking up the second one with the RCA out of the Sub 2 on the Anthem? Is there a volume issue if one is hooked up XLR and one RCA, or does ARC take care of that?


I can always order another XLR, but I'm asking because I already have an 8 foot RCA ran to the spot of the 2nd subwoofer....


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21177370
> 
> 
> There will be no difference in sound sending LPCM to and AVM50.



Depends if the AMV50 carries the same level issues the D2v (and iirc the AMV50v) has when decoding DTS-HDMA.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi, I haven't been posting much as my AMV50v has been awesome and haven't had any issues....
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about picking up another subwoofer today....I already have one connected XLR to XLR. Any issue in hooking up the second one with the RCA out of the Sub 2 on the Anthem? Is there a volume issue if one is hooked up XLR and one RCA, or does ARC take care of that?
> 
> 
> I can always order another XLR, but I'm asking because I already have an 8 foot RCA ran to the spot of the 2nd subwoofer....



Before doing your ARC Measurement pass, balance the two subs for volume using the volume knobs on each sub. Then run ARC and it will fine tune the combo volume for the pair of them.


The rule of thumb is to set each sub individually for 72dB to get roughly 75dB when they are played together.


The XLR output is +6dB hotter than the RCA, so expect you'll have to adjust the two volume knobs differently.


Use an SPL meter and the built in level calibration test tones in Setup to do this (one sub powered at a time).


You will ALSO need to adjust phase for both subs prior to Measuring for ARC. Again this must be done using the Phase knob on each sub. Power one sub at a time and Phase match it to Left Front. When both are adjusted, then they will also be in Phase with each other.


If the two subs are at different distances, use the average distance. Set that and set volume on each and then adjust Phase on each.

--Bob


----------



## rovingtravler

Has anyone used the video editor to make a custom gamma?


I have Calman 4.4 with i1 Pro hooked up to my Runco Q-750i. The Q has a 3 point gamma adjustment built in 30, 80, and 100. I would like to use the live video editor to adjust either the point the Q cannot or all points if needed. I have a really nice flat curve but it is just slightly high (2.27) at 50%.


Anyone have any tips or used this feature?


Thanks,


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21180551
> 
> 
> Depends if the AMV50 carries the same level issues the D2v (and iirc the AMV50v) has when decoding DTS-HDMA.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Correct, I was referencing the quality and not the volume trim issue. PCM gives the correct trims in any case.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21180551
> 
> 
> Depends if the AMV50 carries the same level issues the D2v (and iirc the AMV50v) has when decoding DTS-HDMA.
> 
> 
> Cheers





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21181213
> 
> 
> Correct, I was referencing the quality and not the volume trim issue. PCM gives the correct trims in any case.



You guys lost me here probably because I don't understand the trim issue with the "v" machines being a D2 guy. How can a AVM50 or plain D2 have the issue when it doesn't decode DTS-HDMA? That is a player function.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/21181336
> 
> 
> You guys lost me here probably because I don't understand the trim issue with the "v" machines being a D2 guy. How can a AVM50 or plain D2 have the issue when it doesn't decode DTS-HDMA? That is a player function.



You're right, it's a "v" issue correctly decoding speaker volume levels when decoding DTS-MA. The work around for that is to have the source send the loss less stream as LPCM. The D2 or AVM50 do not decode loss less formats but work just fine having the player send them as LPCM.


There is suppose to be some news soon from Anthem re this issue for the v series.


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21180738
> 
> 
> Before doing your ARC Measurement pass, balance the two subs for volume using the volume knobs on each sub. Then run ARC and it will fine tune the combo volume for the pair of them.
> 
> 
> The rule of thumb is to set each sub individually for 72dB to get roughly 75dB when they are played together.
> 
> 
> The XLR output is +6dB hotter than the RCA, so expect you'll have to adjust the two volume knobs differently.
> 
> 
> Use an SPL meter and the built in level calibration test tones in Setup to do this (one sub powered at a time).
> 
> 
> You will ALSO need to adjust phase for both subs prior to Measuring for ARC. Again this must be done using the Phase knob on each sub. Power one sub at a time and Phase match it to Left Front. When both are adjusted, then they will also be in Phase with each other.
> 
> 
> If the two subs are at different distances, use the average distance. Set that and set volume on each and then adjust Phase on each.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Sub wont be here for a week, but this will be helpful.


----------



## aus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21176319
> 
> 
> It's apparently the upgrade to add 3D pass-through support on half the inputs and one of the two outputs.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.

So no USB port for iPOD still!!!

I know it's not an audiophile source, but it's much easier when you just want to have music going during a party.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21181364
> 
> 
> The work around for that is to have the source send the loss less stream as LPCM. The D2 or AVM50 do not decode loss less formats but work just fine having the player send them as LPCM.



I guess this is the crux of my question regarding sound quality - if sending via LPCM gives the same end result, why should having hi-res decoding capability (i.e., the 50V vs. my 50) in the processor matter to me?


I'm sure I'm being dense here...


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21190148
> 
> 
> There were two other things that Live Video Settings Editor was used for: First it could be used to back up and restore the Video Source Adjust menu settings. That's something that's really missed.
> 
> 
> Anyway, the backup function and the custom Gamma function would definitely be worth restoring. I hope Anthem can free up the resources to address those.
> 
> --Bob



Have you tried this function of the software lately? Andrew @ Tech Support told me that one DOES work, but I never tried it.


----------



## AVfile

Here's Nick's reply from January. My memory was faulty about the new 8-input video board being the roadblock. Sounds like it was a software enhancement that broke LVSE.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/19925014
> 
> 
> No need to make things complicated. All you have to do is send an e-mail to tech support stating in simplest terms what you're trying to accomplish. LVSE development simply didn't keep up with adding two more video output configurations in menu, a much more popular request. This does not mean custom resolutions can no longer be uploaded, nor is LVSE the only means (it's just a GUI for serial commands). Regardless of how 1600x900 gets loaded, someone has to send us the projector's timing chart such that all the info that would be loaded in the custom resolution section of "normal" LVSE is known.


----------



## rovingtravler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/21190404
> 
> 
> The same de-interlacing chip, but that isn't what Lumagen is using to get the bulk of their video processing capabilities (especially in terms of calibration features). Those are running off an FPGA chip.



Kris,


Are you referring to a Flip pin grid array used by intel or a specific chip? I am only asking as the only FPGA I know of (I am not a chip techy guy) is Intel chipsets.


Thank you for the info.


----------



## rovingtravler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21190148
> 
> 
> First understand that CMS functions really need to be done INSIDE the display. Why? Because an external control can never boost a color point. It can only reduce it.
> 
> 
> So what was found in the Live Video Settings Editor utility was *NOT* a Color Management System. What was in there was a way of producing custom Gamma curves.
> 
> 
> Gamma is the shape of the response curve between black and full brightness either of gray scale (which is a combo of R, G, and B) or for R, G, and B individually. For technical reasons, the "correct" response from the display as the signal increases is not a linear increase in brightness. It is an exponential curve instead.
> 
> 
> Many displays have incorrect Gamma. Often this is done deliberately in the form of too low a Gamma exponential value (too straight line a curve) as that gives "false pop" to images which helps make displays more eye-catching in stores. The down-side of that (banding in near black scenes for example) doesn't get noticed until you get the set home, in more typical low-light viewing situations.
> 
> 
> The D2v and AVM 50v already have a simple Gamma correction setting in [Edited:] Video Source Adjust > Output which lets you alter the curviness of the exponential curve. For many people that's all that's needed.
> 
> 
> Live Video Settings Editor, on the other hand, let you build the curve from scratch -- either one curve for gray scale, or three curves for R, G, and B -- and Upload that result. The curve could be wildly different from an exponential curve. NOTE: Setting Gamma correctly -- particular if you are constructing the curve from scratch -- is *NOT* something that can be done by eye alone. You will almost certainly end up with really crappy results if you try. You need a light sensor and some software to help evaluate the results of the curve you've built.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, the current version of Live Video Settings Editor is not compatible with the current hardware. I don't know what the hold-up is, but Anthem apparently does not think it a priority to update that software.
> 
> 
> There were two other things that Live Video Settings Editor was used for: First it could be used to back up and restore the Video Source Adjust menu settings. That's something that's really missed.
> 
> 
> Second, it could be used to build custom output video timings for handling output to unusual displays. That's not really needed any more since all displays are standardized these days.
> 
> 
> Live Video Settings Editor could also be used to modify video settings from a computer while watching the screen. Almost nobody actually did that though.
> 
> 
> Anyway, the backup function and the custom Gamma function would definitely be worth restoring. I hope Anthem can free up the resources to address those.
> 
> --Bob



I would love to have any of these functions. And you are right you need a meter and software to adjust gamma correctly. Luckly I have an i1-Pro and CalMan 4.4 and my Runco Q-750 has a huge gamut and great gamma, I just really wanted to tweak it to absolute flat responce throughout the curve.


I also wanted to experiment with the live settings as this to me is fun.


I will play with the gamma adjust when I get home tonight and see what I can do. I have all the cables set up right now.


Thank you.


----------



## AVfile

FPGA = Field-Programmable Gate Array

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fpga 



> Quote:
> "FPGA redirects here. It is not to be confused with Flip-chip pin grid array."


----------



## Wookii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/21191114
> 
> 
> I would love to have any of these functions. And you are right you need a meter and software to adjust gamma correctly. Luckly I have an i1-Pro and CalMan 4.4 and my Runco Q-750 has a huge gamut and great gamma, I just really wanted to tweak it to absolute flat responce throughout the curve.
> 
> 
> I also wanted to experiment with the live settings as this to me is fun.
> 
> 
> I will play with the gamma adjust when I get home tonight and see what I can do. I have all the cables set up right now.
> 
> 
> Thank you.



Likewise, I have an i1Pro and Calman. My JVC 950 of course has it's own internal CMS and I may have to resort to using that, but it does feel a shame when I have just bought a high end AV Processor (kind of lacking on the 'V').


Likewise I could keep the Lumagen (and not tell the wife!) but then I guess I would have to route all the sources through through that and just output the audio to the D2v. Again it seems a shame given the level the D2v should be pitching at.


Don't get me wrong, I'm not bad mouthing the D2v, I've only just got it, and I'm very excited about setting it all up - it's just a little disappointing that I can't calibrate the video side properly with it.


----------



## bluemark81

I just purchased a headphone amp to hook into my D2v. The amp has RCA inputs on it. Would I just connect these to zone 2 or 3 on the back of the D2v? How do I defeat the sound in zone 1 or will this occur when I switch the D2v to zone 2 for headphone listening?


Thanks


----------



## mkaye

as a calibrator & as stated above always adjust the display (that way you are not dependant on the video processor & can change it)

if you can't get the desired results then tweak the video processor, but you can only reduce most things as Bob stated

i have done a Runco Q750 and found it calibrated very well, no need to tweak the video processor


mark


----------



## TJG55

Also an ISF calibrator using Calman. Have done at least 5 Q750s with excellent results, including nearly perfect gamma curves and precise color points,all 6. No need for anything else other than controls onboard the Runco Q 750.

TJG


----------



## rovingtravler

Guys you are correct the everything calibrated almost perfectly. I have just a slight drop in gamma at the low end and when I say slight I mean 2.15 or 18 I cannot reember exactly. I all 6 colors with all Delta Es below 1 and mostly below .5 Lum is even better. I just wanted to play around and see if gamma could be ultra flat. I have plenty of time to toy around and I thought the Anthem had the ability to do this. I also have a Sammy LCD that does not have as good results and was looking to use the AVM50v to make that better.


----------



## TJG55

RT

At what IRE level does the deviation occur? Remember, virtually all senors are unreliable below 20-30IRE. Great work on the Delta Es and L values. Despite the unneccessary back and forth, isn't the Q750 a joy to work with?

If they just had the 10 point IRE adjustments and the menu nav was a little bit better, we would have perfection. Note: if using a moveable anamorphic lens, you need to calibrate BOTH situations separately.

TJG


----------



## rovingtravler

TJG,


Thanks for the coments on the Q. The Q is so easy and a joy with the interactive CalMan, but still not nearly as many tweaks as my old Vidikron Vision 75 (Runco RS-1100 Ultra, now updated as the VX-3000) That thing had so many adjustments it was amazing.


The roll off on Gamma is slightly low at 20%, and I understand the i1-Pro is not great even at 20% IRE. I also get a slight rise to about 2.25 at 50% but I think I have everything dialed in as good as I can get it.


The menu does take a lot of switching, but I have the add on interactive ability in CalMan so I just drag the points for gamut, and then drag the graphs as well. It makes life so easy. Then I use the Q menu display in Calman to fine tune. Hope that makes sense.


Unfortunately I a just doing 16:9 right now. I am looking into an A lense once I get into the new house next summer.


----------



## dbox1080p

Great news guys ... My local dealer contacted anthem and he is friends with one of the staff who searched the factory for 2 days and found me an arc dsp board. I popped down and gave him $800 for the service so it looks like by next week my anthem avm40 will boot up with the words ........ANTHEM AVM40/ARC WOO HOOOO


I said to the dealer that he was a star for getting me it and even he told me his friend at the factory said "what are the chances of that " when he called to tell him he found one .I am sooo happy to have this and count the days till its up and running with the 5.1 martin logans


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Great news guys ... My local dealer contacted anthem and he is friends with one of the staff who searched the factory for 2 days and found me an arc dsp board. I popped down and gave him $800 for the service so it looks like by next week my anthem avm40 will boot up with the words ........ANTHEM AVM40/ARC WOO HOOOO
> 
> 
> I said to the dealer that he was a start for getting me it and even he told me his friend at the factory said "what are the chances of that " when he called to tell him he found one .I am sooo happy to have this and count the days till its up and running with the 5.1 martin logans



Excellent!

John


----------



## ooHe0Eejem1

That aside, in short, this thing rocks. The Gennum is incredible at cleaning up video, reducing artifacts, displaying the cleanest, crispest image I have yet seen on my Sony Qualia 006 set. I am sending 1080i out of the D2, and it looks great. Keep in mind something that Nick at Anthem taught me on this. The Gennum immediately deinterlaces and scales everything to 1080p, then from there adjusts it to meet whatever output one has chosen. So, when I feed the D2 480i from my DVD player over HDMI, it immediately performs inverse telecine true per-pixel deinterlacing, then scales the image to 1080p. The Gennum is always outputting a progressive signal, so Anthem included an interlacer in the D2 to allow for interlaced outputs when needed. So, the signal is interlaced then to 1080i, and sent to my Qualia over HDMI. The Qualia


----------



## Wookii

Sorry if this question has been asked before, but I'm about to do my first ARC calibration this weekend, and I am a little unsure of the correct microphone placement for the latter four of the five measures.


I have a two seater sofa, with the sweet spot being the left hand seat (selfish I know!







).


I understand that the first measure should be essentially where my head will be on that left seat, and that the further four measures need to be 24" away from this point, which I don't understand is where these measures should be taken?


The manual seems to suggest that they should be in a straight line across the listening space, i.e. measure sweet spot, measure 24" to the left, then 24" to the right, then 48" to the left (of sweet spot), and 48" to the right - is this correct?


Would it not be better going in front and behind the sweet spot instead, i.e. sweet spot, 24" left, 24" right, 24" in front, 24" behind? If this is not correct, is there any value in adding more measurement points to cover the front and rear areas? - I'm guessing this must be used where there are multiple rows of seats?


I haven't taken a look at the software yet, so sorry if this is a premature question, but how does ARC know which position you are measuring, or doesn't it matter?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977* /forum/post/21198200
> 
> 
> Sorry if this question has been asked before, but I'm about to do my first ARC calibration this weekend, and I am a little unsure of the correct microphone placement for the latter four of the five measures.
> 
> 
> I have a two seater sofa, with the sweet spot being the left hand seat (selfish I know!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> I understand that the first measure should be essentially where my head will be on that left seat, and that the further four measures need to be 24" away from this point, which I don't understand is where these measures should be taken?
> 
> 
> The manual seems to suggest that they should be in a straight line across the listening space, i.e. measure sweet spot, measure 24" to the left, then 24" to the right, then 48" to the left (of sweet spot), and 48" to the right - is this correct?
> 
> 
> Would it not be better going in front and behind the sweet spot instead, i.e. sweet spot, 24" left, 24" right, 24" in front, 24" behind? If this is not correct, is there any value in adding more measurement points to cover the front and rear areas? - I'm guessing this must be used where there are multiple rows of seats?
> 
> 
> I haven't taken a look at the software yet, so sorry if this is a premature question, but how does ARC know which position you are measuring, or doesn't it matter?



Bob did a great post in the MRX forum

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=7128


----------



## Wookii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21198206
> 
> 
> Bob did a great post in the MRX forum
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=7128



Thanks that's excellent. That answers almost all my questions.


One final question, having read Bob's post - is there any merit in adding additional measurement positions in my case, i.e. will this increase ARC's accuracy, or will it make it worse (in my situation) by spreading the equalisation over a wider area?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977* /forum/post/21198227
> 
> 
> Thanks that's excellent. That answers almost all my questions.
> 
> 
> One final question, having read Bob's post - is there any merit in adding additional measurement positions in my case, i.e. will this increase ARC's accuracy, or will it make it worse (in my situation) by spreading the equalisation over a wider area?



That will not be a bad idea. It allows ARC to measure more of your room. I did that, and my charts didn't change that much at all. I went from measuring 5 positions to measuring 10 positions, and the two charts looked very similar. I would say give a try, compare your charts, and listen to both measurements and see what you think. If you don't like the extra measurements, the just re-upload your previous measurements, and you will be right back to where you left off.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977* /forum/post/21198227
> 
> 
> will this increase ARC's accuracy, or will it make it worse (in my situation) by spreading the equalisation over a wider area?



Sorry but I would have thought the latter. Why does ARC need to know about the rest of the room when you only have 2 seats that you care about? Any improvement there would surely be at some expense to the sweet spot, even if the extra positions do carry lower weighting in the averages.


----------



## Wookii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21198393
> 
> 
> Sorry but I would have thought the latter. Why does ARC need to know about the rest of the room when you only have 2 seats that you care about? Any improvement there would surely be at some expense to the sweet spot, even if the extra positions do carry lower weighting in the averages.



To be fair, if my newly found understanding of ARC is correct, unlike other systems that would use the other point as seating positions, I believe ARC uses them to help identify standing waves for reflections etc? (which I'm guessing is why the have to be spaces so far apart).


Though, as I originally posted it would be good to be sure no averaging of any sort was going on between these points.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21198393
> 
> 
> Sorry but I would have thought the latter. Why does ARC need to know about the rest of the room when you only have 2 seats that you care about? Any improvement there would surely be at some expense to the sweet spot, even if the extra positions do carry lower weighting in the averages.



Even with 2 seats, you still have to do a minimum of 5 measurements with ARC. ARC definitely requires that the first measurement be in the sweet spot. After that, it will like you to move the mic around the room. I did a test from 5 to 10 positions, and my charts look pretty much the same.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/21196114
> 
> 
> The roll off on Gamma is slightly low at 20%, and I understand the i1-Pro is not great even at 20% IRE. I also get a slight rise to about 2.25 at 50% but I think I have everything dialed in as good as I can get it.



CalMAN is great and having all delta Es under 1 as you've achieved is fine but regarding the i1, it's not accurate even at 30 IRE (it's fine above that considering its cost). If you can get your hands on a meter recommended for low levels just to experiment with it you can compare measurements using the two side by side and see this. The only reason I'm mentioning it is to help prevent potentially unnecessary and untrustworthy adjustments.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21190780
> 
> 
> Here's Nick's reply from January. My memory was faulty about the new 8-input video board being the roadblock. Sounds like it was a software enhancement that broke LVSE.



Very sorry for the delay. I've been pushing for a "stripped" LVSE to allow user-entered custom resolution, even if it's for one user (note that only progressive formats are eligible). The issue is scheduling it with our software dept. and I'm hoping that it'll be ready by the time that the 3D hardware rolls out (which is what they've been tied up with among other things).


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977* /forum/post/21191411
> 
> 
> Likewise, I have an i1Pro and Calman. My JVC 950 of course has it's own internal CMS and I may have to resort to using that, but it does feel a shame when I have just bought a high end AV Processor



There is no substitute for CMS in the projector, and JVC's works fine on its own. With xyY control and 10 points it's the best kind there is and all that's needed. As mentioned in other replies the only purpose of external correction is for displays that do not have adequate control (this is where the phrase "resort to" can be used), and even then it can only go so far.


----------



## Farayar

Hello everybody,


The crossover for the mains was set to 60 Hz and the sub crossover was set to 80 Hz after the ARC solution was uploaded to the D2v.


Which would be the crossover region in order to produce the test tone to set the phase?


Around 60 Hz or 80 Hz?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## rovingtravler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21198788
> 
> 
> CalMAN is great and having all delta Es under 1 as you've achieved is fine but regarding the i1, it's not accurate even at 30 IRE (it's fine above that considering its cost). If you can get your hands on a meter recommended for low levels just to experiment with it you can compare measurements using the two side by side and see this. The only reason I'm mentioning it is to help prevent potentially unnecessary and untrustworthy adjustments.



Nick you are correct. I should have mentioned I used a friend's C6 and profiled it so I could compare and get accurate measurements at 30% and below.


Unfortunately the Q only has a 3 point gamma. 30, 80, and 100%.


Is it true that the video chip converts everything to 1080p then processes? If so I would think the clean output would be 1080p not 1080i. In other words I should feed my PJ the 1080p signal. The q has the 10bit version of the same video chip as the Anthem products.


----------



## TJG55

RT

Also use a recently re-calibrated CA-6 and the same restrictions apply as to low light performance. 30 IRE may be good, maybe even 20 but ignore below that (and suspect 20).

TJG


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/21199416
> 
> 
> Is it true that the video chip converts everything to 1080p then processes?



Yes - if the projector accepts 1080p, send it 1080p.


I should clarify for the general readership that the i1 can give accurate enough measurement with a 30 IRE source depending on luminance but this can also be part of the problem because although plasma, for example, has higher light output than a projection screen it also produces heat that can cause the i1 to drift even within the reset period. Like so many things, it all depends...


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Farayar* /forum/post/21199017
> 
> 
> Which would be the crossover region in order to produce the test tone to set the phase?
> 
> 
> Around 60 Hz or 80 Hz?



The sub and mains overlap through a range of frequencies, not just at the crossover frequency. A crossover is a slope not a cliff.


Play some between-station FM noise and adjust subwoofer phase until the noise in the bass region is loudest when heard from the listening area. Alternatively, temporarily set polarity to Inverted, adjust phase for least amount of noise, then set polarity back to Normal.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Farayar* /forum/post/21199017
> 
> 
> Hello everybody,
> 
> 
> The crossover for the mains was set to 60 Hz and the sub crossover was set to 80 Hz after the ARC solution was uploaded to the D2v.
> 
> 
> Which would be the crossover region in order to produce the test tone to set the phase?
> 
> 
> Around 60 Hz or 80 Hz?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Typically the test tone you find on calibration discs for checking sub phase will be a mix of frequencies (pink noise) in the bass region. So it will cover that 60-80 Hz and more. If you play a 60Hz test tone (say from the special set of test tones in the Room Response Filter portion of Setup), that will give you a feel for what 60Hz sounds like.


Now play your pink noise from a calibration disc into LF. Some of that bass will be steered to the sub via the crossover. While it is playing, adjust subwoofer Phase to maximize the amount of bass you hear (thus indicating the LEAST cancellation), particularly in the vicinity of that 60Hz, higher bass end where the cancellation will be taking place. Take your time as the effect is subtle when listening to pink noise as much of the bass noise tone is not subject to cancellation. Sneak up on the candidate phase setting from both sides and compare what you think is right to what you get with phase 180 degrees away from that candidate phase. This sort of test is valid even if you still have uncorrected problems in room bass response.


If you've already got your ARC solution in place (i.e., if you only have a single subwoofer and you've already built your ARC solution), then you can use the other type of sub phase test, as for instance from the AIX Audio Calibration Blu-ray. That's a single frequency tone that sweeps back and forth across the crossover region. If phase is correct *AND* your Arc solution is working well to correct room bass response issues, then you will hear the SAME volume from one end to the other of that sweeping tone. A dip in the vicinity of 60Hz would indicate phase is still not quite right.


If you have more than one sub, then you need to adjust phase for each of them BEFORE running the ARC setup. Power one at a time and adjust the phase for that one sub compared to LF using the pink noise test. Set each sub alone that way. When they are all in phase with LF then they are all in phase with each other as well. Set sub distance as the average of the actual distance for your subs, and balance each sub to the same volume (one sub powered at a time) before checking phase. Note that sub volumes add (logarithmically). So for example, set each of 2 subs to 72dB to get roughly 75dB when they play together. Once you have your multiple subs in phase, you can do your ARC setup (all subs powered) and then double-check the results using the sub phase sweep tone test.


With one sub, you can adjust phase without having to redo ARC. The change does not break the ARC solution With more than one sub, if you adjust phase on any of them then you need to redo ARC as the ARC solution is based on the combo sound from your set of subs, and their relative phase affects that.


Note 1: Set speaker distances BEFORE adjusting phase, and manually balance the sub and LF volumes as well (if ARC has not already done that for you) to make the cancellation effect easier to hear. An SPL meter makes this easier. If you have one subwoofer, you can use the phase setting in Setup in the Anthem. If you have more than one subwoofer than you must use an individual phase control on each sub as the phase setting in Setup affects ALL the sub outputs of the Anthem.


Note 2: Some subs also have a Polarity setting which is like reversing the wires to the sub. Phase controls operate near the likely crossover frequencies, because making an adjustable phase control that operates over the complete range of bass is too complicated. But Polarity affects all the frequencies played by the sub. Particularly if you have more than one sub, getting their Polarity correct is a big help in minimizing cancellation BETWEEN THE SUBS. The rule of thumb is to use "normal" Polarity for a sub in the front of the room and "inverted" Polarity for a sub at the back of the room. Think of the direction of cone travel. The sub in the back of the room has the cone facing the other way. If you have a sub with Polarity as well as phase adjustments, then you should find the "best" Phase for EACH of the two Polarity settings (comparing that sub against the LF speaker) and then compare those two candidate combos and pick the combo that seems to work best. With more than one sub, do that for each sub individually -- once you have Polarity/Phase right for each sub in comparison to LF, then it is also right between the subs.


Note 3: If you move a sub, adjust the sub distance as needed and then recheck phase (and redo your ARC solution).

--Bob


----------



## dbox1080p

Is this the proper rs232 to usb converter I should use to connect the avm40 to my laptop via usb ? http://www.amazon.com/Keyspan-USA-19.../dp/B0000VYJRY


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/21204110
> 
> 
> Is this the proper rs232 to usb converter I should use to connect the avm40 to my laptop via usb ? http://www.amazon.com/Keyspan-USA-19.../dp/B0000VYJRY



Yes. You will also need a "straight through" serial cable. Plug the USB from the adapter into your computer and run the serial cable from the adapter to the back of the Anthem.


You can leave the serial cable permanently attached to the back of the Anthem, coiled up out of the way when not in use.


Be careful not to get the identical looking "null modem" serial cable which swaps one pair of the 9 wires in the cable. Check the cable package to be sure it says that pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9.


Wait until you get your ARC kit from the Anthem dealer, as the correct serial cable may already be included in the ARC kit. (Anthem now bundles a serial cable with new units, but I don't think they did that with the ARC Upgrade kits.)

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21204174
> 
> 
> Yes. You will also need a "straight through" serial cable. Plug the USB from the adapter into your computer and run the serial cable from the adapter to the back of the Anthem.
> 
> 
> You can leave the serial cable permanently attached to the back of the Anthem, coiled up out of the way when not in use.
> 
> 
> Be careful not to get the identical looking "null modem" serial cable which swaps one pair of the 9 wires in the cable. Check the cable package to be sure it says that pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9.
> 
> 
> Wait until you get your ARC kit from the Anthem dealer, as the correct serial cable may already be included in the ARC kit. (Anthem now bundles a serial cable with new units, but I don't think they did that with the ARC Upgrade kits.)
> 
> --Bob



It was included with the upgrade kits, I got one with my AVM50.

John


----------



## nycjazz

I left town for business last week and I had the ARC going (thanks for the help there!) and had tested sound as follows: Chose opt and hdmi to output the surround sound for Blu Ray, front channels for DVD and CD (including Nat King Cole 3 Channel SACD from my Oppo). I even output sound to my surrounds and both Cable and DVD video to my 720P plasma (yes, I am upgrading). So life was good...I turned everything off for the week and when I got back the nightmare began...


I monkeyed around some more and when I reconnected the cable


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21205661
> 
> 
> I left town for business last week and I had the ARC going (thanks for the help there!) and had tested sound as follows: Chose opt and hdmi to output the surround sound for Blu Ray, front channels for DVD and CD (including Nat King Cole 3 Channel SACD from my Oppo). I even output sound to my surrounds and both Cable and DVD video to my 720P plasma (yes, I am upgrading). So life was good...I turned everything off for the week and when I got back the nightmare began...
> 
> 
> I monkeyed around some more and when I reconnected the cable



feed (Verizon). I got a great picture, but horrible blue and green coloring for about 25% of the screen! Most of the issue seemed to be on shadows. I changed the HDMI output, nothing. I changed the feed (from cable tv via hdmi to direct feed from my oppo). I changed HDMIs to my TV (which again, was working before!). I cycled through the Video Processing Menu (Input Color Space) and tried every combination...and nothing. I stepped through the patterns and all the colors look fine there, no smearing of blue and green.


I will call Anthem on Monday, but for the life of me I can't figure out why this is happening? I don't think I yanked the HDMI output (both of them?), I treat this unit with great respect! but i don't understand why this is happening. I also lost the audio through HDMI...


The weirdest thing to me is that the video feed through cable and dvd was working before I left...any insights are appreciated...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ This can happen if the HDMI daughter boards are not properly seated in the main video board. Typically that sort of problem shows from the first time you power up the unit (i.e., the boards shifted during shipping). I suppose it is possible that they shifted almost enough to fail and just now failed due to heating and cooling expansion -- that's just a guess.


Anyway, if that's what it is, the fix is easy: Remove the lid, and taking due care not to zap anything with static electricity from your hands, make sure the HDMI daughter boards at the top of the unit are seated in their sockets.


So don't panic. The fact that the internally generated patterns look good suggests the problem is on the Source inputs -- for example the HDMI daughter board for HDMI inputs 1-4. The video processor itself appears to be working and so does the video output.


This sort of stuff is best diagnosed with live help, so be patient and call Anthem on Monday so they can walk you through the steps.

--Bob


----------



## bballer

Can you turn off the video processing in the D2 and use a Radiance XD for video processing and the D2 as a switcher? If not what would be the best way to implement?

Will be using calman with radiance to calibrate Panasonic Vt25.


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21205743
> 
> 
> ^ This can happen if the HDMI daughter boards are not properly seated in the main video board. Typically that sort of problem shows from the first time you power up the unit (i.e., the boards shifted during shipping). I suppose it is possible that they shifted almost enough to fail and just now failed due to heating and cooling expansion -- that's just a guess.
> 
> 
> Anyway, if that's what it is, the fix is easy: Remove the lid, and taking due care not to zap anything with static electricity from your hands, make sure the HDMI daughter boards at the top of the unit are seated in their sockets.
> 
> 
> So don't panic. The fact that the internally generated patterns look good suggests the problem is on the Source inputs -- for example the HDMI daughter board for HDMI inputs 1-4. The video processor itself appears to be working and so does the video output.
> 
> 
> This sort of stuff is best diagnosed with live help, so be patient and call Anthem on Monday so they can walk you through the steps.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I am hoping that is it. I tried each of the HDMI inputs (1-8) and had the same issue so it must be both daughter boards...although they both worked before (with sound). Any other explanations? My Sundays are so filled with anxiety since I got this wonderful unit...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I am hoping that is it. I tried each of the HDMI inputs (1-8) and had the same issue so it must be both daughter boards...although they both worked before (with sound). Any other explanations? My Sundays are so filled with anxiety since I got this wonderful unit...



There is only one daughter board. The other 4 hdmi inputs are on the main video board.

John


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21206278
> 
> 
> There is only one daughter board. The other 4 hdmi inputs are on the main video board.
> 
> John



uh oh...that doesn't sound good. I will take another look at the video settings, although I cycled through all of them once...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> uh oh...that doesn't sound good. I will take another look at the video settings, although I cycled through all of them once...



If the problem is with the connection of the daughter board to the main video board, it can screw up all 8 inputs.


While waiting for Anthem, get a flashlight and inspect the HDMI plug and all 8 inputs for signs of pin damage. (HDMI sockets are delicate.)


If you have Component video output (3 cables) from any device, try that as that bypasses the HDMI inputs. If Component works, then it is the HDMI input connection. Next try the HDMI direct from the Source to the display. If that works them it is not the output of the source. It could still be the input cable unless you use that same cable for this test.


If all that still points to the inputs as the problem, then the two fixes short of sending the unit for service are to reset the input daughter board or to reinstall the firmware in case the problem is corrupted firmware. Again Anthem can help you work through the possibilities here.

--Bob


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21206929
> 
> 
> If the problem is with the connection of the daughter board to the main video board, it can screw up all 8 inputs.
> 
> 
> While waiting for Anthem, get a flashlight and inspect the HDMI plug and all 8 inputs for signs of pin damage. (HDMI sockets are delicate.)
> 
> 
> If you have Component video output (3 cables) from any device, try that as that bypasses the HDMI inputs. If Component works, then it is the HDMI input connection. Next try the HDMI direct from the Source to the display. If that works them it is not the output of the source. It could still be the input cable unless you use that same cable for this test.
> 
> 
> If all that still points to the inputs as the problem, then the two fixes short of sending the unit for service are to reset the input daughter board or to reinstall the firmware in case the problem is corrupted firmware. Again Anthem can help you work through the possibilities here.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I did try direct hdmi to the TV from the sources and they were fine, so it is not that cable. I did try the component route for the input, but not for the output. That didn't work, but isn't that because I can't switch component in to hdmi out? I will check out the HDMI connections, even though I tried each one in as input.


Messing around with the picture, I eventually lost the colored image and got a "no video input" on the screen (even though I was connected via hdmi, and all i got was a blank screen so I could not even play with the picture setting (no video recognized.). I then stopped as I my anxiety level just went through the roof, so I started setting up my new stand for my equipment.










Regarding the firmware update, the weirdest thing is that my unit avm50v, shows up on the screen as version 2.11; whereas the site offers the latest update as 2.10. Was the 2.11 buggy or should I stick with something that appears to be the latest?


Thanks!

nycjazz


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I did try direct hdmi to the TV from the sources and they were fine, so it is not that cable. I did try the component route for the input, but not for the output. That didn't work, but isn't that because I can't switch component in to hdmi out? I will check out the HDMI connections, even though I tried each one in as input.
> 
> 
> Messing around with the picture, I eventually lost the colored image and got a "no video input" on the screen (even though I was connected via hdmi, and all i got was a blank screen so I could not even play with the picture setting (no video recognized.). I then stopped as I my anxiety level just went through the roof, so I started setting up my new stand for my equipment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the firmware update, the weirdest thing is that my unit avm50v, shows up on the screen as version 2.11; whereas the site offers the latest update as 2.10. Was the 2.11 buggy or should I stick with something that appears to be the latest?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> nycjazz



It couldn't hurt. Easy to do and keep your fingers crossed that it helps. Taking the top off and checking the daughter board is easy and takes very little time. I did it last week.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

New units are shipping with 2.11.


Component in to HDMI out should work just fine up to 1080i.


In the Source definition you need to specify the Component in jacks both in the Scaler In line and in the Component line.

--Bob


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21208234
> 
> 
> New units are shipping with 2.11.
> 
> 
> Component in to HDMI out should work just fine up to 1080i.
> 
> 
> In the Source definition you need to specify the Component in jacks both in the Scaler In line and in the Component line.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Did that, nothing. I let the unit cool off for some time and I'm back to Blue in Green with audio and that is not the Bill Evans song. I will let the board know what I find out in the next few days...Thanks again!


NYCjazz


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21208234
> 
> 
> New units are shipping with 2.11.



I only occasionally got the "low power-on volume bug" with 2.10 (


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21210890
> 
> 
> I only occasionally got the "low power-on volume bug" with 2.10 (



I'm not at all sure that's a firmware problem. It may be hardware. I've not had that problem at all on my D2v for example.


I've had cases with 2.11 where the unit had NO audio on power up (regardless of source changes or volume setting) -- but that was apparently a problem recognizing the input stream and starting the DSPs. That requires a power cycle to cure. But I've not had cases where the unit had audio but with the volume lower than expected. I have my power on volume set at -50dB so it would be pretty obvious if the unit powered on with even lower volume than that from my power on Source.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21208442
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Did that, nothing. I let the unit cool off for some time and I'm back to Blue in Green with audio and that is not the Bill Evans song. I will let the board know what I find out in the next few days...Thanks again!
> 
> 
> NYCjazz



If you have no video from Component video input that's important information. Be sure you include that when you talk with Anthem. It means the problem is *NOT* the HDMI inputs. They'll probably want to walk through the settings with you to make sure you haven't made a simple mistake trying to set up to use Component video input. For example, double check that you are cabled to the Component video input jacks and not the output jacks.


On the other hand, the fact that you can bring up, say the Setup menu on your TV screen indicates the video processor itself is working. The Setup menu is an internally generated S-Video source.

--Bob


----------



## steven2583

Well I had my D2v modified by Parts Connexion. Op-amp OP627 installed on R/L. New attenuator PGA2310 for R/L channel. Dedicated power supply for the R/L delivering 12v to the op-amp and attenuator. The performance has improved. The music is more dynamic. Wider deeper sound stages. Biggest change in all was the added detail. Instruments stand out more as individual objects and location in space.


So it does get better. With ARC it's awesome. I just had to raise Arc to 15K to tame some brightness.


I think it was worth.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I had my D2v modified by Parts Connexion. Op-amp OP627 installed on R/L. New attenuator PGA2310 for R/L channel. Dedicated power supply for the R/L delivering 12v to the op-amp and attenuator. The performance has improved. The music is more dynamic. Wider deeper sound stages. Biggest change in all was the added detail. Instruments stand out more as individual objects and location in space.
> 
> 
> So it does get better. With ARC it's awesome. I just had to raise Arc to 15K to tame some brightness.
> 
> 
> I think it was worth.



Auditory memory lasts about 5 seconds so unless you had two units, one with the mod and the other without, it is very hard to determine the difference.

John


----------



## steven2583

Not really, That's a very general statement and in a general sense it's true. If I was listening to different systems and spending a day or even a week between multiple systems between the days I'm sure you are correct. If you get use to something because you lived it for three years and spent hundred of hours listening to different tunes you know when something isn't quite right. On a few of my disks the presentation changed and it hasn't been all to the better. There were positives and some negatives but the positive out weighs the negatives. Over all I feel the system has better resolution and I can tell the CDs that were not mastered very well and the ones better mastered better.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not really, That's a very general statement and in a general sense it's true. If I was listening to different systems and spending a day or even a week between multiple systems between the days I'm sure you are correct. If you get use to something because you lived it for three years and spent hundred of hours listening to different tunes you know when something isn't quite right. On a few of my disks the presentation changed and it hasn't been all to the better. There were positives and some negatives but the positive out weighs the negatives. Over all I feel the system has better resolution and I can tell the CDs that were not mastered very well and the ones better mastered better.



Interesting. I seem to be able to do that without any mods. The D2v + ARC seems to separate the good from the bad and even more subtle characteristics of the source. Not sure if I would want a third party changing anything in my D2v, the Anthem engineers seem to have gotten it right. You're a braver man than me.

John


----------



## steven2583

Yeah I had faith. Chris Johnson and a few techs from Parts Connexion worked with the Anthem product line before Sonic Frontier was sold to the Paradigm group. I believe Chris was on the design team. I owned quite a few pieces of audio equipment that was modified so I new that most mods improved performance. Denon 2900, Jolida JD302B (I actually owned both at once so I could hear the difference as I switched back and forth. Sansui modded TU-717 as better the unmodded TU-717 and just as good as the higher end TU-919.


There was an issue when my D2v originally came back with a wire that broke loose in shipping so I was getting nothing but hum in the back channel. So I sent it back. But before I sent it back I listened to it for a week. The front channels worked fine but after listening to them I wasn't happy with the mod. Considered taking it out. Some of the sound stage width was lost. What was most troublesome was that the depth of the sound stage was flattened and bass impact wasn't as strong as the unmod. It ended up that the power supply wasn't big enough to run everything. They fixed the power supply and the wire that broke loose. From that saga I can confirm that memory for sound is more then 2 seconds. It didn't sound right to me and they actually found that there was an issue.


Unit sounds awesome now. Worth it!


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583* /forum/post/21213261
> 
> 
> I believe Chris was on the design team.



He was a founding owner and designed feature checklists, not circuits.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21211985
> 
> 
> I'm not at all sure that's a firmware problem. It may be hardware. I've not had that problem at all on my D2v for example.
> 
> 
> I've had cases with 2.11 where the unit had NO audio on power up (regardless of source changes or volume setting) -- but that was apparently a problem recognizing the input stream and starting the DSPs. That requires a power cycle to cure. But I've not had cases where the unit had audio but with the volume lower than expected. I have my power on volume set at -50dB so it would be pretty obvious if the unit powered on with even lower volume than that from my power on Source.
> 
> --Bob



Hmmm, there seems to be more than one variation on this bug.


My power-on volume is -40 and soft mute is -20. Source changes don't help in my case either. The volume control works but it is way too low, as if the -20 were permanently applied (until 2nd power cycle).


Note that I never cold boot the unit unless I go on vacation. I always use Standby mode. Maybe I should power it off fully once a week or so?


That should be some good clues for their software guys to start debugging. If they wanted I suppose I could test some more scenarios and make actual measurements of the lowered volume level. (Nick - if you're reading feel free to PM me.)


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583* /forum/post/21213261
> 
> 
> Yeah I had faith. Chris Johnson and a few techs from Parts Connexion worked with the Anthem product line before Sonic Frontier was sold to the Paradigm group. I believe Chris was on the design team. I owned quite a few pieces of audio equipment that was modified so I new that most mods improved performance. Denon 2900, Jolida JD302B (I actually owned both at once so I could hear the difference as I switched back and forth. Sansui modded TU-717 as better the unmodded TU-717 and just as good as the higher end TU-919.
> 
> 
> There was an issue when my D2v originally came back with a wire that broke loose in shipping so I was getting nothing but hum in the back channel. So I sent it back. But before I sent it back I listened to it for a week. The front channels worked fine but after listening to them I wasn't happy with the mod. Considered taking it out. Some of the sound stage width was lost. What was most troublesome was that the depth of the sound stage was flattened and bass impact wasn't as strong as the unmod. It ended up that the power supply wasn't big enough to run everything. They fixed the power supply and the wire that broke loose. From that saga I can confirm that memory for sound is more then 2 seconds. It didn't sound right to me and they actually found that there was an issue.



Sounds like you were a vital part in their R&D on this mod.










I've done most of the mods on my analog Sonic Frontiers gear. Like you, I found that it can be a double-edged sword. Usually mods that make the thing sound more dynamic or transparent also make it sound more forward or lean, which is probably awesome for "audiophile" recordings but doesn't do a damned thing for my Genesis albums. After going through it all you sometimes realize the original designers had the best all-round sound. Other times there is a clear benefit with no pitfalls and the only excuse for original component selection was cost-savings.


As for the 5-second rule (I thought it was 7 seconds







) I would say that is valid in the context of surveying the general public for say a psychology class study. However an experienced Audiophile that knows what to listen for can make mental notes.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like you were a vital part in their R&D on this mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've done most of the mods on my analog Sonic Frontiers gear. Like you, I found that it can be a double-edged sword. Usually mods that make the thing sound more dynamic or transparent also make it sound more forward or lean, which is probably awesome for "audiophile" recordings but doesn't do a damned thing for my Genesis albums. After going through it all you sometimes realize the original designers had the best all-round sound. Other times there is a clear benefit with no pitfalls and the only excuse for original component selection was cost-savings.
> 
> 
> As for the 5-second rule (I thought it was 7 seconds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I would say that is valid in the context of surveying the general public for say a psychology class study. However an experienced Audiophile that knows what to listen for can make mental notes.



Not according to Floyd Toole's research.

John


----------



## JimP

Did Anthem ever come out with the replacement board for 3D?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/21216808
> 
> 
> Did Anthem ever come out with the replacement board for 3D?



An upgrade allowing 3D "pass through" on half the inputs and one of the 2 HDMI outputs is in the works. The latest post here from Nick at Anthem says it is slated for the first of the year. No info yet on pricing.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21212645
> 
> 
> Auditory memory lasts about 5 seconds so unless you had two units, one with the mod and the other without, it is very hard to determine the difference.
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21216151
> 
> 
> As for the 5-second rule (I thought it was 7 seconds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I would say that is valid in the context of surveying the general public for say a psychology class study. However an experienced Audiophile that knows what to listen for can make mental notes.



I think you are both right.

I often find myself saying, "God, I forgot how good this sounds!" as I listen to my system, anchored by my D2 with ARC.


Its nice to both know what good sound is, and (because of my faulty auditory memory) to be re-reminded each time that I have a system that is capable of producing it.










Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I think you are both right.
> 
> I often find myself saying, "God, I forgot how good this sounds!" as I listen to my system, anchored by my D2 with ARC.
> 
> 
> Its nice to both know what good sound is, and (because of my faulty auditory memory) to be re-reminded each time that I have a system that is capable of producing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Glad I could help you enjoy your system more Tom









John


----------



## boblam

I'm thinking about purchasing an Anthem AVM50v. I was wondering if anyone has heard anything about changes to this model or a new line coming out at CES 2012. Thoughts?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boblam* /forum/post/21218225
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about purchasing an Anthem AVM50v. I was wondering if anyone has heard anything about changes to this model or a new line coming out at CES 2012. Thoughts?


 3 posts back


----------



## rovingtravler

Only update in the works for Anthem pre/pro is 3D pass through. Minor firmware fixes every now and then.


----------



## cossie0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21216900
> 
> 
> An upgrade allowing 3D "pass through" on half the inputs and one of the 2 HDMI outputs is in the works. The latest post here from Nick at Anthem says it is slated for the first of the year. No info yet on pricing.
> 
> --Bob



It may be the first half of the year but did they say which year?


I bought a D2V last December taking advantage of the free 1.4 upgrade offer which was due early in the year. Since then it has been 3 months away no matter what month I asked


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cossie0* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> It may be the first half of the year but did they say which year?
> 
> 
> I bought a D2V last December taking advantage of the free 1.4 upgrade offer which was due early in the year. Since then it has been 3 months away no matter what month I asked



January is the present hope by Anthem. The firmware and hardware are being beta tested as we speak to make sure it is ready for prime time.

John


----------



## [email protected]!

Hi

I have orderd mine new Anthem D2v and i want to know witch is better for sound, Oppo 95 via hdmi or via analog cables?


Has the Anthem D2v only space for 5.1 analog in?


Thanks for the info


Martin.


----------



## boblam




> Quote:
> An upgrade allowing 3D "pass through" on half the inputs and one of the 2 HDMI outputs is in the works. The latest post here from Nick at Anthem says it is slated for the first of the year.



Is this a firmware upgrade or an actual board that I would have to take into my dealer for an upgrade (assuming I could get an upgrade)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^ Yes, only 5.1 in over analog (7.1 for HDMI), although the D2v can raise that to 7.1 speakers for output.


The Oppo 95 has very good analog output so you certainly ought to try both analog and HDMI into the D2v. But be aware that to use ARC with the analog input you must let the D2v re-digitize the analog audio so that it can be processed (ANALOG-DSP for the Source audio input). And then of course after processing it is the D2v that will re-convert back to analog for output.


Now ARC is so good, I think you'll want to use ARC even for the Analog audio.


Really you'll just have to try it and see which you like better.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Is there any way we can get the first post updated?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LEVESQUE* /forum/post/7411934
> 
> *PANIC ROOM!*
> 
> 
> * *Should I panic since the D2/AVM50 are NOT HDMI 1.3?* :
> 
> 
> Not anymore!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The D2/AVM50 will both be upgradable (hardware upgrade) to do the D2v, so they will be HDMI 1.3c, 7.1, and will support decoding of DD TrueHD, DTS HD and DTS-HD Master*



WRONG




> Quote:
> *ANTHEM ROOM CORRECTION (ARC-1) : AUDIO BLISS IN A FEW, EASY STEPS*
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14142274
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14160614
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14165296
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14181449
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14192486
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14207104
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14207158
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14207663
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14214469
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14216213
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14220432
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14232090
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14236866
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14256232
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14262027
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14267952
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14268617
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14286844
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14287488
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14296873
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14306824
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14320989
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14322061
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14327449
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14335277
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14347781
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14351330
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14353551
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14363180
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14365808
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14366806
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14370256
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14372958
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14377508
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14379882
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14380719
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14383015
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14384710
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14391953
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14393593
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14393664
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14394305
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14395567
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14396801
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14407572
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14413014
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14415277
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14420677
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14422227
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14424204
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14424251
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14424733
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14429013
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14430627
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14436325
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14439704
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14439977
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14440383
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14448571
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14451192
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14458172
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14459485
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14461019
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14462796
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14469019
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14477302
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post14484075



Yeah, just a few


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boblam* /forum/post/21223287
> 
> 
> Is this a firmware upgrade or an actual board that I would have to take into my dealer for an upgrade (assuming I could get an upgrade)?



A hardware change (board swap out) is required to change those HDMI sockets to HDMI V1.4. I presume it will be a change done by a dealer for folks buying an upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21223293
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> Yeah, just a few



Have you actually read them? Many are quite short.


As to your question, at this point it is unlikely the first post will be updated as only the thread starter can do it. That's just the way the forum software works. LEVESQUE has not posted in this thread in quite some time.


If you are volunteering to start your own FAQ, one suggestion is to add a link to it in your post signature.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Sorry I haven't read past the first few. Just thought I'd ask, to benefit the newbies that seem to constantly pop in and get redirected to the "FAQ".


For example, if I were looking for tips on how to place the microphone (since I find the stand too tall on my chairs) where would I start? I don't want to start and the beginning with all the historical info about ARC upgrade kits, etc.


Actually I found your most recent post about setting up subwoofers very informative and should be in the FAQ if not already.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes, well that's how the list of posts grew that long in the first place.










I believe that particular subwoofer setup advice is already in there, but perhaps not.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21223403
> 
> 
> For example, if I were looking for tips on how to place the microphone (since I find the stand too tall on my chairs) where would I start? I don't want to start and the beginning with all the historical info about ARC upgrade kits, etc.



I found a microphone boom attatchment that fit on the Anthem stand.

It allows me to place the stand infront of the seating/mic positions and put the mic in the optimum place. Works great and its cheap.


Attachment is picture of the boom- this was on the Sweetwater site, but you can find a similar model at any music/guitar store for $10-$15.

Tom


----------



## AVfile

Thanks Tom, that is a great idea! I ran out at lunch and found something similar in a local shop.


----------



## TJG55

UPDATE.....new Anthem product comes with a new stand. Lighter and with boom arm. Has been the case for several months.

TJG


----------



## matty1137




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21228775
> 
> 
> UPDATE.....new Anthem product comes with a new stand. Lighter and with boom arm. Has been the case for several months.
> 
> TJG



That's great news! Do you know if the stands coming with the newer 50v and D2v are the same stands that come with the MRX receivers?


----------



## TJG55

Yep!

TJG


----------



## matty1137




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21228902
> 
> 
> Yep!
> 
> TJG



Awesome! Thank you, sir.


----------



## MStanic

Why are some BluRay movies so much louder than others.


For example, I find movies in DTS 5.1 MA like King Kong, Aliens, Saving Private Ryan to play so much louder off my D2v using Neo 5.1 DTS MA over movies like Jurassic Park and Forbidden Kingdom which are 7.1 DTS MA? I am using the same DVD player (BDP S550) when playing these discs.


Anthem just said it has to do with the disc/source. They suggested changing my Dynamic setting from Reference to Off. Literally, I have to come down about 10 plus decibels when playing King Kong for example (I find this with most DTS 5.1 MA discs) vs Forbidden Kingdome for example or most DTS 7.1 MA discs which play so much softer. Any ideas/comments? Thanks.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why are some BluRay movies so much louder than others.
> 
> 
> For example, I find movies in DTS 5.1 MA like King Kong, Aliens, Saving Private Ryan to play so much louder off my D2v using Neo 5.1 DTS MA over movies like Jurassic Park and Forbidden Kingdom which are 7.1 DTS MA? I am using the same DVD player (BDP S550) when playing these discs.
> 
> 
> Anthem just said it has to do with the disc/source. They suggested changing my Dynamic setting from Reference to Off. Literally, I have to come down about 10 plus decibels when playing King Kong for example (I find this with most DTS 5.1 MA discs) vs Forbidden Kingdome for example or most DTS 7.1 MA discs which play so much softer. Any ideas/comments? Thanks.



This isn't the answer but prologic IIx works best for all formats, NEO not so good.

John


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21229043
> 
> 
> Why are some BluRay movies so much louder than others.
> 
> 
> For example, I find movies in DTS 5.1 MA like King Kong, Aliens, Saving Private Ryan to play so much louder off my D2v using Neo 5.1 DTS MA over movies like Jurassic Park and Forbidden Kingdom which are 7.1 DTS MA? I am using the same DVD player (BDP S550) when playing these discs.
> 
> 
> Anthem just said it has to do with the disc/source. They suggested changing my Dynamic setting from Reference to Off. Literally, I have to come down about 10 plus decibels when playing King Kong for example (I find this with most DTS 5.1 MA discs) vs Forbidden Kingdome for example or most DTS 7.1 MA discs which play so much softer. Any ideas/comments? Thanks.



Known issues http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post20844765 


If you use the Dolby Volume Reference setting you need to go into the level settings and set the Dolby Volume level setting to reference level(-30dBFS tones = 75dBC) using an SPL meter, otherwise it won't play at the correct level when engaged on content. Ie if you need to apply a -6dB to the DV reference setting and you didn't then when you engage DV Reference it will play +6dB louder than reference.


Cheers


----------



## AVfile

Have you also used the front trims to turn down the center channel 3dB for DTS HD?


There is of course the fact that some BD are just mastered too damn loud. Last night I was nearly deafened by Resident Evil 3 and it's Dolby TrueHD!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Have you also used the front trims to turn down the center channel 3dB for DTS HD?
> 
> 
> There is of course the fact that some BD are just mastered too damn loud. Last night I was nearly deafened by Resident Evil 3 and it's Dolby TrueHD!



I'd agree with that!

John


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21231052
> 
> 
> There is of course the fact that some BD are just mastered too damn loud. Last night I was nearly deafened by Resident Evil 3 and it's Dolby TrueHD!



Yep, Armageddon BD is another......compressed and cranked, had to turn it way down as even the dialog was too damn loud. Haven't double checked if the DVD was mastered the same though.


Cheers


----------



## boblam

On the way to listen to an AVM50v. This product has been out for a while. I have a AVM20 which is now showing it's age. Is the AVM50v design, processors, ... starting to show their age or is this still a viable product?


Don't want to purchase it this year if there is an AVM60 or whatever product around the corner.


I spoke with a dealer that stopped carrying Anthem because they wouldn't upgrade a customers D2. Thoughts on purchasing this or waiting for next generation?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boblam* /forum/post/21232411
> 
> 
> On the way to listen to an AVM50v. This product has been out for a while. I have a AVM20 which is now showing it's age. Is the AVM50v design, processors, ... starting to show their age or is this still a viable product?
> 
> 
> Don't want to purchase it this year if there is an AVM60 or whatever product around the corner.
> 
> 
> I spoke with a dealer that stopped carrying Anthem because they wouldn't upgrade a customers D2. Thoughts on purchasing this or waiting for next generation?



I doubt there is any NEXT Generation.


HOWEVER - Anthem - has announced a Video Upgrade for

the D2v and AVM50v in January 2012 to support HDMI 1.4

and 3D Video.


----------



## TJG55

Being a dealer for many years, that explanation really doesn't ring true.

There was ample time for anyone to upgrade. Maybe there were other reasons.

Go for the 50, it will amaze you!

No AVM replacements in the pipeline.

TJG


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Part of the reason for ending the upchange program is that the person looking to upgrade is better off selling privately and buying new. This wasn't the case when the program began, but then the days of 80 cents to the Canadian dollar are also gone.


----------



## Bruceko




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21232855
> 
> 
> Part of the reason for ending the upchange program is that the person looking to upgrade is better off selling privately and buying new. This wasn't the case when the program began, but then the days of 80 cents to the Canadian dollar are also gone.



Part of the reason I bought an AVM20 and then a D2 was because of the reasonable priced upgrade policy.

To me the cost of the upgrade to the D2V didn't offer enough new features.

I would consider it if it was offered with the HDMI 1.4


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/21233856
> 
> 
> Part of the reason I bought an AVM20 and then a D2 was because of the reasonable priced upgrade policy.
> 
> To me the cost of the upgrade to the D2V didn't offer enough new features.
> 
> I would consider it if it was offered with the HDMI 1.4



The new D2v is now being offered to include the 1.4 upgrade when it is released.


----------



## Bruceko




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21234430
> 
> 
> The new D2v is now being offered to include the 1.4 upgrade when it is released.



But I don't think the D2 will be included


----------



## ResEdit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21232855
> 
> 
> Part of the reason for ending the upchange program is that the person looking to upgrade is better off selling privately and buying new. This wasn't the case when the program began, but then the days of 80 cents to the Canadian dollar are also gone.



Guess I picked a bad time to time look into upgrades for my AVM50. Wish I had known the program had been ending. Sounds like the recommended path right now is sell the AVM50 privately (are AVM50's still sought?) and buy a new AVM50v? Seems best to wait for the 1.4 upgrade.


Is the ARC upgrade no longer available as well?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/21234971
> 
> 
> But I don't think the D2 will be included



No, the D2 will not get an HDMI V1.4 upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ResEdit* /forum/post/21234973
> 
> 
> Guess I picked a bad time to time look into upgrades for my AVM50. Wish I had known the program had been ending. Sounds like the recommended path right now is sell the AVM50 privately (are AVM50's still sought?) and buy a new AVM50v? Seems best to wait for the 1.4 upgrade.
> 
> 
> Is the ARC upgrade no longer available as well?



Nick previously posted that the ARC upgrade for the original AVM 50 is no longer available -- hasn't been for quite some time. We did get one post here from a guy who managed to scrounge one recently from some hidden recess of Anthem -- with the assistance of his dealer.


After this amount of time you may not remember that there never was an "upgrade" program to go from the AVM 50 to an AVM 50v or to go from a D2 to a D2v.


What there was, instead, was a factory run "trade-in program", where you sent in your old AVM 50 or D2 and some cash -- rather a lot of cash, actually -- and got a brand new AVM 50v or D2v in return. That trade-in stuff ended quite some time back, and the explanation that the costs involved no longer made sense for customers (i.e., better to sell your old unit yourself) seem to make sense to me. After all, there's not a lot Anthem can do to recoup costs from returned AVM 50 or D2 units. So the trade-in was priced pretty high.


Actually the AVM50/ARC upgrade was quite a surprise when it happened. Before ARC came out, the D2 was sold against the AVM 50 as supporting a future release of ARC -- i.e., that was one reason to pay more for the D2. The fact that Anthem managed to find a way to retrofit the horsepower into an AVM 50 to allow ARC was a pleasant surprise, and the last batch of AVM 50 units sold (just before the AVM 50v shipped) came bundled with the ARC upgrade. But since MOST people bought their AVM 50 never expecting to be able to run ARC on it, I'm not surprised that the interest in the fairly expensive, $800 upgrade (board swap plus the rest of the ARC kit) produced too little demand to keep making them.

--Bob


----------



## a2k2000

Hi Everyone,


Forgive me if it is the wrong place to post. I bought a brand new Anthem D2V 3 weeks ago from an authorized dealer for the new increased price with an assurance from Anthem the I will get the free upgrade to the HDMI 1.4 when it is available. Unfortunately due to a layoff in my company I was laid off last week. I have decided to sell my unit brand new sealed unit as I can put better use of my money especially with the holiday season looming in. If anyone is interested I am willing to let it go for 6500 if that is a fair asking price for a brand new sealed unit - That is the price I Paid after trading in my Marantz pre pro and I am fine with that. Kindly PM me and I can deliver within the Chicago region or ship it to you.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *a2k2000* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> 
> Forgive me if it is the wrong place to post. I bought a brand new Anthem D2V 3 weeks ago from an authorized dealer for the new increased price with an assurance from Anthem the I will get the free upgrade to the HDMI 1.4 when it is available. Unfortunately due to a layoff in my company I was laid off last week. I have decided to sell my unit brand new sealed unit as I can put better use of my money especially with the holiday season looming in. If anyone is interested I am willing to let it go for 6500 if that is a fair asking price for a brand new sealed unit - That is the price I Paid after trading in my Marantz pre pro and I am fine with that. Kindly PM me and I can deliver within the Chicago region or ship it to you.



Audiogon is another place to sell A/V equipment to reach more people.

John


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/21233856
> 
> 
> Part of the reason I bought an AVM20 and then a D2 was because of the reasonable priced upgrade policy.
> 
> To me the cost of the upgrade to the D2V didn't offer enough new features.
> 
> I would consider it if it was offered with the HDMI 1.4



Going all the way back to the AVM 20 the product lit always said something to the effect of upgrades will be offered for as long as technology allows. If it sounds like a copout I don't blame anyone but it's reality because we don't invent things like HDMI, nor create the demand for it (the end user is in full control of that). Of course technology does allow turning a D2 into a D2v without trading in, but it would have cost more.


Since the D2v appeared I always said there is nothing wrong with a D2 in conjunction with HD audio decoding in the player. 3D changes things but just a little.


As far as the HDMI organization is concerned, version monikers no longer exist, only supported features. If being in the market for "1.4" means being after 3D sensing and switching then there are ways of making older HDMI equipment, including the D2, pass it but conditions include being able to force frame packing format in the player and TV. Offhand I know that this is possible with Panasonic, and if I'm not mistaken not possible with Oppo but then it has two HDMI-outs to prevent the need for upgrading the AVP/AVR. Tech support is more up to date on forced-format tricks - you might want to contact them in case they've dealt with systems similar to yours.


----------



## Bruceko

Thanks Nick

i will get in touch with support


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21234999
> 
> 
> Actually the AVM50/ARC upgrade was quite a surprise when it happened.



and a perfect example of the end user being in control of demand. We never intended for AVM to have ARC - it only happened due to the high number of requests coming in.


----------



## budeone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21238528
> 
> 
> and a perfect example of the end user being in control of demand. We never intended for AVM to have ARC - it only happened due to the high number of requests coming in.



That upgrade was probably the best money I have ever spent.


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21238514
> 
> 
> Since the D2v appeared I always said there is nothing wrong with a D2 in conjunction with HD audio decoding in the player. 3D changes things but just a little.



Nick, you did say that, and I think more than once, and I still appreciate that. I have one of the early D2's with ARC, running rock solid on v.1.33. Yes, my source players have to decode the new hi-rez audio formats, but the only thing I am really missing is the discrete 7.1 back channels. I have to settle for PLIIx to fill in my back surrounds, which works just fine, thank you! I haven't yet dabbled in 3D, but as you alluded there are ways around that with the right source players. I might just keep running my D2 until the day it goes up in smoke!


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/21242401
> 
> 
> Nick, you did say that, and I think more than once, and I still appreciate that. I have one of the early D2's with ARC, running rock solid on v.1.33. Yes, my source players have to decode the new hi-rez audio formats, but the only thing I am really missing is the discrete 7.1 back channels. I have to settle for PLIIx to fill in my back surrounds, which works just fine, thank you! I haven't yet dabbled in 3D, but as you alluded there are ways around that with the right source players. I might just keep running my D2 until the day it goes up in smoke!



I have the same feeling about my AVM-50. I did purchase an ARC kit for it soon after it became available. Well worth the extra cost.


Would I like to have a v serise? Yes, but not for the additional investment. The AVM-50 works perfectly...



Ed


----------



## DoctorO

Haven't heard back--still looking at ways to make a D2V work in our system. Can a consumer access the "installer" save files--I am wondering if it is possible for the end user to save more than one system configuration, and how long it takes to load a saved configuration. Thanks for any help!


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DoctorO* /forum/post/21243612
> 
> 
> Haven't heard back--still looking at ways to make a D2V work in our system. Can a consumer access the "installer" save files--I am wondering if it is possible for the end user to save more than one system configuration, and how long it takes to load a saved configuration. Thanks for any help!



Yes you can access it. It's just a name and you can use either. It takes less than a second to load. This does not save or load ARC config. This is saved and loaded from a PC. the ARC measurement takes about 20-30 minutes and a few minutes to load. You can config and save 2 ARC configs, Music and Movie. These are set depending on the source or can be changed on the fly.


----------



## slots1

My D2v has been running great for about a year. I just recently gave up on my harmony 890 remote. Second unit that fried. I have been setting up with the URC mx-880z. It seems crazy but on the sat 1 for my directv i get no picture and out of range message on screen. Even when I turn it on manually the same thing happens. Any one have any suggestions. Help!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/21243655
> 
> 
> My D2v has been running great for about a year. I just recently gave up on my harmony 890 remote. Second unit that fried. I have been setting up with the URC mx-880z. It seems crazy but on the sat 1 for my directv i get no picture and out of range message on screen. Even when I turn it on manually the same thing happens. Any one have any suggestions. Help!



Check the Video Output Configuration selected in Setup > Source Setup for that one. You might have accidentally changed it.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Bob, first thanks as usual.

I did not change it, but the following no longer works

I had config 2 set up as follows

NTSC

HDMI

1920x1080 P24

HDTV

YcbCr 4:4:4

output auto

black

normal

pass thru


This was set up for blu ray 24P

On config 1 everything was the same except p60

when I changed it to i60 or p24 it worked but not with p60 or p50....

Don't I need p60 for directv 1080p and dvd or blu ray not 24 p.. What has changed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If 1080i/60 output to the display is working but 1080p/60 is not working then you likely have a cabling problem. Make sure the plugs are fully inserted straight into the sockets at both ends -- both the input and output cables.


1080p/24 output is not something you should be using with DirecTV input.

--Bob


----------



## FilmMixer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1080p/24 output is not something you should be using with DirecTV input.
> 
> --Bob



DirecTV does offer 1080p/24 programming.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FilmMixer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> DirecTV does offer 1080p/24 programming.



Ah. Good point. I forgot about that.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

so does that mean you set up two outputs for directv, one 60p and one 24P?

I will check the cables


----------



## barhoram

I'm guessing someone here was an AVM-40 owner at some point. Quick Question--does the source name and volume show up over HDMI on the AVM-40? I can't seem to understand the manual from this aspect. I dont need the whole OSD for setup, etc, just want to be ablve to view volume while watching TV on the main display over HDMI.


Sorrry to ask this here, but the older Anthem threads don't look to be active.


----------



## slots1

Well, of course Bob is right as usual. I unplugged the hdmi cords on the projector and then on the directv box, and on the Anthem. No change.

I bought HDMI extenders a few months ago that move so not to add pressure on the sockets.. I put one on the hdmi cord on the projector, and bingo back to 1080p 60 and no more static in the picture. Thanks again Bob.


----------



## terryshep

Hi iv just got the anthem d2v and I think I have a problem

When going from dolby digital to PCM sound on my sat box I

Get no sound I have to turn the sat box of and on again to get sound

Is this normal as I have only had the d2v for 2days

Thanks for your help


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That's likely the Sat box. A couple things:


1) You don't want to use PCM from a Sat or Cable box as that will give you a stereo down mix intended for use when directly connected to the stereo speakers in a TV. So leave it on Bitstream.


2) Sat and Cable boxes are notorious for lousy HDMI implementations. It is often better to use Optical Digital audio cabling from them to avoid the nuisance. You can still use HDMI for video.

--Bob


----------



## terryshep

Hi thanks for the reply I am only useing optical out

Any other help please


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, of course Bob is right as usual. I unplugged the hdmi cords on the projector and then on the directv box, and on the Anthem. No change.
> 
> I bought HDMI extenders a few months ago that move so not to add pressure on the sockets.. I put one on the hdmi cord on the projector, and bingo back to 1080p 60 and no more static in the picture. Thanks again Bob.



Those extenders are finicky. I had one that prevented 3D from my MRX but not 1080p/24. Removed it and all was well.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/21248148
> 
> 
> Hi thanks for the reply I am only useing optical out
> 
> Any other help please



As I said, the problem is likely in the Sat box. Is there some reason you WANT to switch between Bitstream and LPCM audio output in the Sat box?

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

So I am having one of those weird little problems that make no sense. My D2V seems to have recently dveloped decreased remote responsiveness, but only to the volume control. Regardless of whether I use the Anthem remote or my Harmony, I have to press the button a lot to get the volume to change, but other commands seem to respond no problem. Any ideas why this would be?


Also is there a way to change the default volume level when the unit turn on?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/21248644
> 
> 
> So I am having one of those weird little problems that make no sense. My D2V seems to have recently dveloped decreased remote responsiveness, but only to the volume control. Regardless of whether I use the Anthem remote or my Harmony, I have to press the button a lot to get the volume to change, but other commands seem to respond no problem. Any ideas why this would be?
> 
> 
> Also is there a way to change the default volume level when the unit turn on?



Yes you can set the Power On volume level in Setup > Volumes & Path Names.


As to the unresponsive volume control, try turning off the Rear IR receivers in Setup so that only the Front receiver is active. Failing that, the only thing I can think of is to do a firmware re-install.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

I have 2 items I would like some input on.

1. System consists of D-2, P-2, A-5, Sig 4s, ADPs. Normal width room but open to rear. No room treatment. After several runs, getting a room gain of 2.8xxx. Having run ARC many dozens of times on store syatem and clients, 3.9xxx is almost always the RG. ????

Thought about raising RG to 3.9 and reloading but want to check with you guys first. I know, load and listen, but any discussion might help.


2. To achieve normal movie or TV volume, must go to -6 to -3db. Seems like before the lastest update, 1.33?, this was not the case. Doesn't this seem very high for a small to medium room? Again, store demo system and with many clients, this gain setting would be VERY loud.


Jump in guys!

thanx

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21249028
> 
> 
> I have 2 items I would like some input on.
> 
> 1. System consists of D-2, P-2, A-5, Sig 4s, ADPs. Normal width room but open to rear. No room treatment. After several runs, getting a room gain of 2.8xxx. Having run ARC many dozens of times on store syatem and clients, 3.9xxx is almost always the RG. ????
> 
> Thought about raising RG to 3.9 and reloading but want to check with you guys first. I know, load and listen, but any discussion might help.
> 
> 
> 2. To achieve normal movie or TV volume, must go to -6 to -3db. Seems like before the lastest update, 1.33?, this was not the case. Doesn't this seem very high for a small to medium room? Again, store demo system and with many clients, this gain setting would be VERY loud.
> 
> 
> Jump in guys!
> 
> thanx
> 
> TJG



ARC limits its automatically assigned Room Gain to 4dB. For technical reasons, that gets reduced a hair -- thus the 3.9xxxx value you commonly see. All that means is that ARC's algorithm has measured a Room Gain greater than 4dB and it is limiting it to 4dB due to lack of confidence that the measurement truly reflects the inherent Room Gain in the room. You can manually set a Room Gain higher than 4dB, but ARC won't do that on its own.


Similarly, ARC won't assign a Room Gain less than 0dB since negative Room Gain has no useful physical meaning. Dips in the wrong place in the Measured curves will look to the algorithm like negative Room Gain, but ARC won't use that.


The 2.8 value you are seeing is likely what you want to stick with, unless you have some reason to believe ARC has been fooled by the nature of the Measured curves.


---------------------------------------


Check your Target curves for the flat part to the right of the crossovers. That's the basic volume level of the solution and should correspond to what "reference" audio input will produce when main volume is set at -10dB. (NOTE: PEAK volumes can be 15dB or so higher than that.) If your solution is lower volume than what you are seeing on client systems then going somewhat higher in main volume would be normal. To get the basic volume level of the solution nearer to 75dB, adjust the Test Level in Setup > Level Calibration before your next ARC pass.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21249028
> 
> 
> I have 2 items I would like some input on.
> 
> 1. System consists of D-2, P-2, A-5, Sig 4s, ADPs. Normal width room but open to rear. No room treatment. After several runs, getting a room gain of 2.8xxx. Having run ARC many dozens of times on store syatem and clients, 3.9xxx is almost always the RG. ????
> 
> Thought about raising RG to 3.9 and reloading but want to check with you guys first. I know, load and listen, but any discussion might help.
> 
> 
> 2. To achieve normal movie or TV volume, must go to -6 to -3db. Seems like before the lastest update, 1.33?, this was not the case. Doesn't this seem very high for a small to medium room? Again, store demo system and with many clients, this gain setting would be VERY loud.
> 
> 
> Jump in guys!
> 
> thanx
> 
> TJG



Yes, that volume seems very high to me also.

I run a similar set-up to yours (D2, A5, S2, ADP) and my volume is usually around -25 to -20 db.


How long ago was your 1.33 update?

Does this happen with all sources?


Tom


----------



## TJG55

Bob,

Set reference level to 75db, test level, LF, and S15 prior to run. Target curves check at 68db. ????

T,

Yes, same on all sources. Last update..?? many moons ago. Hesitant to change anything since everything else is rock solid.

TJG


----------



## Shayne2

Hi


I have a problem with the avm-50v and bell satellite when powering on or switch to the bell receiver from another input. I sometimes get no sound (random and common). This has been ongoing since i purchase the 50v, I get video but no audio. It was a problem with an expressvu 9200 receiver and now continues with a second, a 9242 pvr reciever. This happening on two receivers now rules out a faulty PVR. Only solution I have come up with is to turn off the processor and back on, sometimes more than once, until audio kicks in. The solution noted here before was to upgrade the units firmware. I am running 2.11. Is there a fix for this that anyone knows about?


Regards


----------



## weird 23

I'm considering picking up a D2 and was wondering if it accepts a PCM seven channel signal or is it just five channel?


----------



## TJG55

5, then use PL2x for 2 rear. That's what I do. Works well.

TJG


----------



## weird 23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21250008
> 
> 
> 5, then use PL2x for 2 rear. That's what I do. Works well.
> 
> TJG



Perfect answer, thank you.


----------



## weird 23

So when sending seven channel PCM to the D2 it would get down mixed to 5 channel and then matrixed back to seven channel using PLIIx? That seems like a lot of processing. I have no interest in 3-d, has there been any problems with the D2 passing 1080/24 bd video with the older version of HDMI? Right now I'm using the Anthem MRX 700 and am not sure whether moving to the D2 would be worth it. What originally attracted me to the D2 that I'm thinking about is the price, it is equipped with the ARC kit. I should mention that I'm using the MRX as just a processor right now.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/21249728
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> I have a problem with the avm-50v and bell satellite when powering on or switch to the bell receiver from another input. I sometimes get no sound (random and common). This has been ongoing since i purchase the 50v, I get video but no audio. It was a problem with an expressvu 9200 receiver and now continues with a second, a 9242 pvr reciever. This happening on two receivers now rules out a faulty PVR. Only solution I have come up with is to turn off the processor and back on, sometimes more than once, until audio kicks in. The solution noted here before was to upgrade the units firmware. I am running 2.11. Is there a fix for this that anyone knows about?
> 
> 
> Regards



Talk to Anthem tech support. They might give you a new board to try.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21253673
> 
> 
> Talk to Anthem tech support. They might give you a new board to try.



Thank you sir, I will.


I also lose audio with my PC and MPC HT. If a pause a movie and then restart it I sometimes get no audio just the video restarts. This is a simular problem to that of the PVR however with the PC i can play with audio drives to try to minimize the situation, with the PVR i have no where to go.


Regards


----------



## benleeys

Was playing a DTS-HD 2.0 movie just now and noticed the display (OK button) showing nothing for audio input (normally will show L R) while the output showed L R, which is as it should be.


Checked my Oppo 93 (Display button) and it showed DTS-HD 2.0 output.


Thought it weird. Replaced the disc with another with DTS-HD 5.1 and it displayed fine. Can't be a faulty disc, since Oppo indicates output 2.0 and D2v likewise, only refusing to display any input info. Video input/output info was correct.


Anyone had similar experience?


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/21254046
> 
> 
> Was playing a DTS-HD 2.0 movie just now and noticed the display (OK button) showing nothing for audio input (normally will show L R) while the output showed L R, which is as it should be.
> 
> 
> Checked my Oppo 93 (Display button) and it showed DTS-HD 2.0 output.
> 
> 
> Thought it weird. Replaced the disc with another with DTS-HD 5.1 and it displayed fine. Can't be a faulty disc, since Oppo indicates output 2.0 and D2v likewise, only refusing to display any input info. Video input/output info was correct.
> 
> 
> Anyone had similar experience?
> 
> 
> Ben



Sometimes the Select button displays check on status at the wrong time and get an odd result like this -- e.g., the prior status result which would apply before there was an audio input signal.


Often all you have to do is check again to get the correct result.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/21249728
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> I have a problem with the avm-50v and bell satellite when powering on or switch to the bell receiver from another input. I sometimes get no sound (random and common). This has been ongoing since i purchase the 50v, I get video but no audio. It was a problem with an expressvu 9200 receiver and now continues with a second, a 9242 pvr reciever. This happening on two receivers now rules out a faulty PVR. Only solution I have come up with is to turn off the processor and back on, sometimes more than once, until audio kicks in. The solution noted here before was to upgrade the units firmware. I am running 2.11. Is there a fix for this that anyone knows about?
> 
> 
> Regards



It is highly likely that you have a satellite receiver with a lousy HDMI implementation. HDMI handshakes are driven by the Source device, so failures like this are usually due to the Source not doing its job. NOTE: This would be a design flaw in the HDMI implementation, so a replacement unit would likely do the same thing. Typically the problem is that these boxes are simply not prepared for the range of signal types the Anthem will accept. They were designed expecting to be connected to a TV.


The easiest solution is to NOT USE HDMI for audio. Use Optical Digital cabling instead. The stereo and DD 5.1 programming on your satellite channels will transmit over Optical Digital with exactly the same quality as over HDMI, but without the hassle. You can still use HDMI input for video if that's working for you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/21253794
> 
> 
> Thank you sir, I will.
> 
> 
> I also lose audio with my PC and MPC HT. If a pause a movie and then restart it I sometimes get no audio just the video restarts. This is a simular problem to that of the PVR however with the PC i can play with audio drives to try to minimize the situation, with the PVR i have no where to go.
> 
> 
> Regards



The usual problem with HTPC setups is that they lose track of the EDID info (which specifies what the Anthem can accept). A pretty common fix for HDMI problems between an HTPC and the Anthem is to insert a device in-line such as the Geffen HDMI Detective which will capture the EDID info from the Anthem itself and re-present that to the HTPC as often as necessary.


It is unusual to lose audio simply due to Pause/Play. If that's what's happening, then it may be your HTPC is not properly restarting the audio stream when you go to Play again, so that the Anthem sees a bogus stream and mutes the audio to protect the speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21249318
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Set reference level to 75db, test level, LF, and S15 prior to run. Target curves check at 68db. ????
> 
> T,
> 
> Yes, same on all sources. Last update..?? many moons ago. Hesitant to change anything since everything else is rock solid.
> 
> TJG



There is apparently a charting bug in ARC which can sometimes cause the charts to show lower volume. The actual data is correct; the charts are just labeled incorrectly. Nobody has ever figured out what triggers this for some folks.


One way to test this is to do a Quick Measure and compare the level that shows you against the Measured curve for that speaker in your ARC solution. Quick Measure appears to chart correctly. If there's a difference then just ignore the absolute volume numbers on the ARC solution chart and focus on the shape of the curves.


Another thing to check is the speaker volume trims ARC has uploaded as part of its solution. If the are large and on opposite sides of 0dB the trim needs for your speakers may have run up against the maximum trim the unit can provide, so ARC has to shift the whole solution to compensate. The usual culprit in such cases is a subwoofer volume knob set dramatically higher or lower than it should be.


A final problem some folks have run into is if they have lowered the Max Volume limit in Setup > Volumes. If you lower that, then ARC may need to lower the level of the entire solution because the trims it wants to provide would push a speaker over that Max Volume.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

W23

Sending 5 channels, not 7, to D-2. I would use D-2 over MRX700.

TJG


----------



## TJG55

Bob,

Not really concerned with possible charting errors, just noting difference there. Main concern with Vol is the high level (-6 to -4 db) necessary for reasonable listening level. I understand the concept of gain but I would just like the normal level to be about -16 to -10db as others are. Compulsive?

Any ideas on possible room gain anomolies?

thanx

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Not really concerned with possible charting errors, just noting difference there. Main concern with Vol is the high level (-6 to -4 db) necessary for reasonable listening level. I understand the concept of gain but I would just like the normal level to be about -16 to -10db as others are. Compulsive?
> 
> Any ideas on possible room gain anomolies?
> 
> thanx
> 
> TJG



That's why I said to check the Uploaded volume trim levels and also your Max Volume setting in Setup. They can be the cause of the solution being shifted down, meaning you would need more main volume in use.


As I said on my earlier post, your 2.8 Room Gain is not a problem. Room Gain in the range 2-4dB is normal.


The problem, if any, is in your Customers' rooms that are measuring over 4 and being trimmed down to 4 by ARC.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Trims are all +/- 3 db, Max vol not an issue.

Other RGs are 3.1xx to 3.9xx, most are not maxed out.

Considering reloading 1.33 but since there are no real problems and all else is working great I may not. Remember, I did preface this as a discussion not problem solving. Just wanted some input from the most informed guys I know. Excepting, Nick and Pierro, of course.

thanx

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It ain't broke. So don't fix it!










I don't know what's up with your Volume issue. The roughly 10dB delta you are seeing is too small to be protect mode in the amps. And you don't have Dolby Volume in the D2 so the 10dB variance that it can introduce doesn't apply. I can't think of any other possibilities. Seriously, you could try the firmware re-install, but I don't recall a problem in V1.33 that might be related to this. Another possibility is to Reset Factory Defaults, manually re-enter just enough stuff to get some Source audio through to your speakers, and see if the Volume goes back to "normal" that way. Try it with ARC turned OFF for that Source.


(The 3.9xxx Room Gain in those customer systems (but not the 3.1 of course) IS maxed out. When ARC trims it to 4dB some processing technicalities reduce the value further to that 3.9xxx value. There's no problem even in that case unless ARC is having trouble taming their Measured curves down to the Target curves.)

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21256345
> 
> 
> Sometimes the Select button displays check on status at the wrong time and get an odd result like this -- e.g., the prior status result which would apply before there was an audio input signal.
> 
> 
> Often all you have to do is check again to get the correct result.
> 
> --Bob



This doesn't appear to be the case, Bob. Several times during the movie I checked, stopped the movie and restarted it. Still no audio input display, either on the screen or on the front panel. The following day, before playing another movie, I put this disc on the player to see what I'd get. Still no audio display, just a blank.


This is my first disc with 2.0 DTS-HD. Maybe the D2v's display does not respond to this particular input.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Could be true. It's a fairly unusual format, although not exactly rare.

--Bob


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21256346
> 
> 
> It is highly likely that you have a satellite receiver with a lousy HDMI implementation. HDMI handshakes are driven by the Source device, so failures like this are usually due to the Source not doing its job. NOTE: This would be a design flaw in the HDMI implementation, so a replacement unit would likely do the same thing. Typically the problem is that these boxes are simply not prepared for the range of signal types the Anthem will accept. They were designed expecting to be connected to a TV.
> 
> 
> The easiest solution is to NOT USE HDMI for audio. Use Optical Digital cabling instead. The stereo and DD 5.1 programming on your satellite channels will transmit over Optical Digital with exactly the same quality as over HDMI, but without the hassle. You can still use HDMI input for video if that's working for you.
> 
> --Bob



It is not a replacement unit but a complete different unit. My less expensive Denon's and Onkyo's did not have the same problem with the satellite receivers from Bell (or PC) that I experience with this unit. I therefore think that their HDMI implementation is just fine. You think this is because the anthem is too high tech and I should down grade the technology to it to the old opt connection? That is not an easy solution, NOT TO USE HDMI, it is a backward technology workaround. Sounds funny to mentioned running additional cables to a unit of this cost. This unit is made in Canada ... Bell is a Canadian satellite supplier. This problem should not exist and it does not with other manufacturers hardware. It should also be noted that bell gets it receivers from dish in the states so it is safe to assume they also have a poor implementation.


Since this also happens on my PC we must assume ATI/amd also has a poor HDMI implementation not for Denon and Onkyo just Anthem.


Regards


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The receivers come from a small set of manufacturers (Bell/Dish doesn't make them), and yes, some of them have been known to ship multiple models with the same HDMI problems. As I mentioned, the PC problem is likely a different issue related to EDID.


Anyway, by all means work the issue with Anthem tech support. But while you are waiting for a different solution, I think you'll find that running the optical cable from the Sat box will solve your audio problems and at no loss of quality. Or think of it as a diagnostic test. If the optical cabling ALSO exhibits your audio problem then that will be important info to tell Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> It is not a replacement unit but a complete different unit. My less expensive Denon's and Onkyo's did not have the same problem with the satellite receivers from Bell (or PC) that I experience with this unit. I therefore think that their HDMI implementation is just fine. You think this is because the anthem is too high tech and I should down grade the technology to it to the old opt connection? That is not an easy solution, NOT TO USE HDMI, it is a backward technology workaround. Sounds funny to mentioned running additional cables to a unit of this cost. This unit is made in Canada ... Bell is a Canadian satellite supplier. This problem should not exist and it does not with other manufacturers hardware. It should also be noted that bell gets it receivers from dish in the states so it is safe to assume they also have a poor implementation.
> 
> 
> Since this also happens on my PC we must assume ATI/amd also has a poor HDMI implementation not for Denon and Onkyo just Anthem.
> 
> 
> Regards



Have you called Anthem? They often have these Canadian cable boxes in Ottawa that the engineers can use to try and duplicate our problems.

John


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/21257324
> 
> 
> It is not a replacement unit but a complete different unit. My less expensive Denon's and Onkyo's did not have the same problem with the satellite receivers from Bell (or PC) that I experience with this unit. I therefore think that their HDMI implementation is just fine. You think this is because the anthem is too high tech and I should down grade the technology to it to the old opt connection? That is not an easy solution, NOT TO USE HDMI, it is a backward technology workaround. Sounds funny to mentioned running additional cables to a unit of this cost. This unit is made in Canada ... Bell is a Canadian satellite supplier. This problem should not exist and it does not with other manufacturers hardware. It should also be noted that bell gets it receivers from dish in the states so it is safe to assume they also have a poor implementation.
> 
> 
> Since this also happens on my PC we must assume ATI/amd also has a poor HDMI implementation not for Denon and Onkyo just Anthem.
> 
> 
> Regards



Do you still have all the settings on "auto"? Is Auto Dig set to "no"


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21257448
> 
> 
> The receivers come from a small set of manufacturers (Bell/Dish doesn't make them), and yes, some of them have been known to ship multiple models with the same HDMI problems. As I mentioned, the PC problem is likely a different issue related to EDID.
> 
> 
> Anyway, by all means work the issue with Anthem tech support. But while you are waiting for a different solution, I think you'll find that running the optical cable from the Sat box will solve your audio problems and at no loss of quality. Or think of it as a diagnostic test. If the optical cabling ALSO exhibits your audio problem then that will be important info to tell Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Except another cable that should be absolutely no need. Don't get me wrong this thing sounds good. I will put up with this box and HDMI (off n on) prior to stringing more cable but thanks. I've used coax many times as a workaround. That is def not we strive for. This HDMI handshake prob should be fixed! Do not tell me that BELL should bow to anthem cause that is ridiculous.


Regards


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/21258152
> 
> 
> Except another cable that should be absolutely no need. Don't get me wrong this thing sounds good. I will put up with this box and HDMI (off n on) prior to stringing more cable but thanks. I've used coax many times as a workaround. That is def not we strive for. This HDMI handshake prob should be fixed! Do not tell me that BELL should bow to anthem cause that is ridiculous.
> 
> 
> Regards



Shayne


This is forum of Anthem users trying to help other Anthem users.

We are users such as you and as individuals have no design or engineering control over the manufacturers or equipment designers or suppliers.

I understand you are frustrated but instead of replying in anger, read Bob's response carefully.

No where does he say Bell should bow down or even suggest that Bell change anything they are doing.

The way I read his response he is suggesting a temporary Work-a Round that completely remedies the problem, without any negative results to the audio, except an extra digital audio cable, while you contact Anthem and confer with them as they may already have an answer to the problem.

Personally, I would find it is hard to believe, that Anthem a Canadian based company, would not have a priority to remedy a software problem with another Canadian based company.

Maybe you should try Bob's suggestion to contact Anthem. Whether you keep your HDMI connected or add another digital audio cable while Anthem works it out is up to you.


----------



## MACCA350

I have my PVR(digital TV) set to output PCM because bitstreaming was just too flakey.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have my PVR(digital TV) set to output PCM because bitstreaming was just too flakey.
> 
> 
> Cheers



For most such TV set top boxes, selecting PCM output will force a 2.0 output and he box will select the 2.0 audio program from shows also offering 5.1. The 2.0 audio program is usually more compressed.


If you are getting 5.1 LPCM then fine. Otherwise the DD5.1 Bitstream you can get over Optical will be dramatically superior than the limited 2.0 LPCM output on HDMI

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21259768
> 
> 
> For most such TV set top boxes, selecting PCM output will force a 2.0 output and he box will select the 2.0 audio program from shows also offering 5.1. The 2.0 audio program is usually more compressed.
> 
> 
> If you are getting 5.1 LPCM then fine. Otherwise the DD5.1 Bitstream you can get over Optical will be dramatically superior than the limited 2.0 LPCM output on HDMI
> 
> --Bob



Tried that ages ago and it didn't help, I gave up and just left it to output 2.0 PCM and use PLIIx in the D2v, after all it's only Digital TV.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I use Optical audio all the time from my Comcast box (made by Motorola) without problems.


Optical is much easier for box to output and the D2v to handle than HDMI audio. If you are having problems with Optical audio you should contact tech support. It may be as simple as a damaged Optical cable (often due to kinking around corners or getting stepped on) or a dirt on the end of the Optical plug at one end or the other of the cable.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/21258152
> 
> 
> Do not tell me that BELL should bow to anthem cause that is ridiculous.



In 2006 we discovered something about the HDMI port on the Bell box which was way out of spec and causing us grief so we reported it to HDMI, mostly because of people saying "how can it be the established mega company's fault, it has to be Anthem's" right here on AVS. As a result, HDMI gave Bell 72 hrs to do something about it, and that 72 hrs does not include standard test and certification procedures.


HDMI uses 2-way communication and old school trial and error diagnosis and elimination doesn't always work.


btw a 5-year NDA is in effect so this is all I have to say.


----------



## rovingtravler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21259873
> 
> 
> I use Optical audio all the time from my Comcast box (made by Motorola) without problems.
> 
> 
> Optical is much easier for box to output and the D2v to handle than HDMI audio. If you are having problems with Optical audio you should contact tech support. It may be as simple as a damaged Optical cable (often due to kinking around corners or getting stepped on) or a dirt on the end of the Optical plug at one end or the other of the cable.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I am wondering which Moto box you have? I also have a Moto box hooked up to my AVM50v and do not have any audio drop out or lock issues. I did find the lock on audio/video was slightly faster when using optical or coax, but for almost 7 months and two different Moto boxes no issues.


I have the all black "newer" box with the huge hard drive in it and the touch buttons on the box (no physical buttons)


Did you have issues with speed of lock or drop outs? I wonder if the newer boxes are better at HDMI.


Cheer,


Hope all had a happy thanksgiving!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I use Optical because the Moto boxes do a 2 step handshake. First for HDMI video, then for video plus audio. This means video starts up without audio and audio comes on some seconds later. Optical avoids that audio startup delay.


I use HDMI for video because the latest Moto boxes finally seem to have gotten that right -- even when set to Native output. Took them long enough!

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/21258152
> 
> 
> Except another cable that should be absolutely no need. Don't get me wrong this thing sounds good. I will put up with this box and HDMI (off n on) prior to stringing more cable but thanks. I've used coax many times as a workaround. That is def not we strive for. This HDMI handshake prob should be fixed! Do not tell me that BELL should bow to anthem cause that is ridiculous.
> 
> 
> Regards



I did a little research via Google and found your sound problems are far from unique with Bell.

I also became aware that the Bell 9200 unit is obsolete and Bell no longer supports it and replaces them with the 9241.


It is common knowledge the 9241 suffers from cold solder joints with the HDMI connection to the mother board. just moving the unit can cause intermittent HDMI sound problems


Here is the Bell CA forum 


Here are some comments from Bell HDMI users


"The HDMI port has had issues right from the first days of the 9200 models, so it is nothing new. 99% are a pulled solder joint on the Motherboard. "


"Both of my 9241 are dropping the audio and video. It's pretty erratic in terms of when it happens but it's never really stable and sometimes there is no signal for extended periods."


And by the way,

The head moderator on the Bell forum (User Name "57" ) makes the same sugestion to the Bell users that Bob P made to you about using a digital audio cable for the sound.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I did a little research via Google and found your sound problems are far from unique with Bell.
> 
> I also became aware that the Bell 9200 unit is obsolete and Bell no longer supports it and replaces them with the 9241.
> 
> 
> It is common knowledge the 9241 suffers from cold solder joints with the HDMI connection to the mother board. just moving the unit can cause intermittent HDMI sound problems
> 
> 
> Here is the Bell CA forum
> 
> 
> Here are some comments from Bell HDMI users
> 
> 
> "The HDMI port has had issues right from the first days of the 9200 models, so it is nothing new. 99% are a pulled solder joint on the Motherboard. "
> 
> 
> "Both of my 9241 are dropping the audio and video. It's pretty erratic in terms of when it happens but it's never really stable and sometimes there is no signal for extended periods."
> 
> 
> And by the way,
> 
> The head moderator on the Bell forum (User Name "57" ) makes the same sugestion to the Bell users that Bob P made to you about using a digital audio cable for the sound.



Good detective work on that one. Arguing with Bob is like spitting into the wind









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/21257104
> 
> 
> This doesn't appear to be the case, Bob. Several times during the movie I checked, stopped the movie and restarted it. Still no audio input display, either on the screen or on the front panel. The following day, before playing another movie, I put this disc on the player to see what I'd get. Still no audio display, just a blank.
> 
> 
> This is my first disc with 2.0 DTS-HD. Maybe the D2v's display does not respond to this particular input.
> 
> 
> Ben



I just received my rental copy of Criterion's "Three Colors: White", Blu-ray, which happens to have a DTS-HD MA 2.0 48KHz audio track, and I can confirm what you have found.


When using Bitstream input, the Select displays correctly show the DTS-HD MA 48KHz but fail to show L/R as the active input channels.


I'll send an email to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## rovingtravler

Bob,


I understand what you are saying about the two step handshank on the Moto box. mine does do that, but it seems to lock within .2 - .4 of a second. I will see how long it takes for coax or optical as I have not found anything over 5.1 coming the box.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21261729
> 
> 
> I just received my rental copy of Criterion's "Three Colors: White", Blu-ray, which happens to have a DTS-HD MA 2.0 48KHz audio track, and I can confirm what you have found.
> 
> 
> When using Bitstream input, the Select displays correctly show the DTS-HD MA 48KHz but fail to show L/R as the active input channels.
> 
> 
> I'll send an email to Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Halelujah! Thought I was being paranoid.










Ben


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21261231
> 
> 
> Good detective work on that one. Arguing with Bob is like spitting into the wind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John




lol


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/21254046
> 
> 
> Was playing a DTS-HD 2.0 movie just now and noticed the display (OK button) showing nothing for audio input (normally will show L R) while the output showed L R, which is as it should be.
> 
> 
> Checked my Oppo 93 (Display button) and it showed DTS-HD 2.0 output.
> 
> 
> Thought it weird. Replaced the disc with another with DTS-HD 5.1 and it displayed fine. Can't be a faulty disc, since Oppo indicates output 2.0 and D2v likewise, only refusing to display any input info. Video input/output info was correct.
> 
> 
> Anyone had similar experience?
> 
> 
> Ben



I posted a similar problem a while back, and reported it Anthem. On the DTS-HD 2.0 disc I have the AVM doesn't allow any processing, such as PLIIx, to be added so I just get sound from the L & R speakers, as I'd expect. Strange thing is that the AVM display says the input is DTS MA 2.0 but if I press Mode the TV display says "DTS 5.1 Input". If I keep pressing Select the display says Input Format L R, which is correct, and Output Format L C R Sub LS RS, which is incorrect.


I have an AVM50v running 2.11. Although the problem isn't exactly the same as you are getting it does seem the AVM is a bit confused about what do do with DTS-HD 2.0 input. Anthem said they'd look in to it.


Gary


----------



## johngalt47

My remote does not seem to be communicating with the preamp. Are there any buttons I can press to "reboot" it?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johngalt47* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My remote does not seem to be communicating with the preamp. Are there any buttons I can press to "reboot" it?



Your AVM 50 is like several devices in one chassis: Main, Zone 2, Zone 3, Record. Just like the remote can be set to control some other device entirely, like a DVD player, it can also be set as to which portion of the Anthem it is talking to. And the most common reason to think the remote is broken is to have pressed a button by accident that switches that


So, in the collection of buttons near the top of the remote, press Main and see if that doesn't fix it.


If not, then replace the batteries -- even if you just did that (you might have a dud battery). Double check that the batteries are in the right way around.


If still no joy, then yes, there is a Reset procedure for the remote. It's in the back of the Manual after the discussion of setting the programmable features of the remote.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/21264961
> 
> 
> I posted a similar problem a while back, and reported it Anthem. On the DTS-HD 2.0 disc I have the AVM doesn't allow any processing, such as PLIIx, to be added so I just get sound from the L & R speakers, as I'd expect. Strange thing is that the AVM display says the input is DTS MA 2.0 but if I press Mode the TV display says "DTS 5.1 Input". If I keep pressing Select the display says Input Format L R, which is correct, and Output Format L C R Sub LS RS, which is incorrect.
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50v running 2.11. Although the problem isn't exactly the same as you are getting it does seem the AVM is a bit confused about what do do with DTS-HD 2.0 input. Anthem said they'd look in to it.
> 
> 
> Gary



I can confirm that this report is correct as well.


While waiting on the fix from Anthem, the workaround is to set your Blu-ray player to output HDMI LPCM instead of sending the 2.0 Bitstream.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25

Bob: Attached are the pictures for my room setup and ARC results.


Please let me know if you need anything else.


Thanks.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25* /forum/post/21265361
> 
> 
> Bob: Attached are the pictures for my room setup and ARC results.
> 
> 
> Please let me know if you need anything else.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I'm not Bob; but, it looks like you forgot to attach the attachments.


----------



## paradigm25

Bob: I am attaching the pictures and ARC results in Word format.


Thanks.

 

ARC MEASURED 112711.doc 205k . file


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25* /forum/post/21265580
> 
> 
> Bob: I am attaching the pictures and ARC results in Word format.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Not Bob either but I'd say your fronts are too close to the wall but ARC seems to have fixed it. You could set your sub to flat.


Everything looks fine.


Don't forget to attach your targets when posting


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25* /forum/post/21265580
> 
> 
> Bob: I am attaching the pictures and ARC results in Word format.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I would say that you are in good shape based on your charts. I will assume that you have a sub25 based on your user's name. If so, you should set your sub to Flat. You can do this by bringing up your Targets View, click on the Advanced button, change Auto to Flat. You can do that for music also if you want to. Click Ok, click Calculate, save your ARC file, and then click upload to upload the results.


Also, if you could pull your fronts out from the wall about 2', that will probably work out a little better for you. If you do move your speakers out 2', you will have to rerun ARC. I suggest that you listen to what you have first, and then if you want to experiment a little, you can try moving your speakers out a little.


Like I said, your charts look good; but, your ears have the final say. So, listen for a while and see if your ears like what they hear.


Also, could you please post your Targets View and also your speaker trims. You can just type your speaker trims for your fronts, center, surrounds, and sub.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I've received a PM from him that his audio is not sounding good at all -- to the point that his CAR audio sounds better. So something screwy is going on -- possibly in his Setup settings.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21265794
> 
> 
> ^ I've received a PM from him that his audio is not sounding good at all -- to the point that his CAR audio sounds better. So something screwy is going on -- possibly in his Setup settings.
> 
> --Bob



Did he check to make sure ARC is turned on for each source? What exactly does not sounding good mean? It sounds muffled, thin, boomy, what?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I've got to run -- late for something. Hopefully he'll post the details here so you folks can help him. He described his Anthem sound as "boomy" and said in comparison his car audio sounded "tighter with better lows and highs".


He says he has Dolby Volume OFF. I'm not sure that ARC is ON. I don't know what he's using as Sources or test content. He's just switched from firmware V2.08 to V2.10, but I don't think he's re-run his ARC setup since that. And I don't know how he is taking his ARC Measurements -- i.e., if he's following the "rules".

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21265893
> 
> 
> ^ I've got to run -- late for something. Hopefully he'll post the details here so you folks can help him. He described his Anthem sound as "boomy" and said in comparison his car audio sounded "tighter with better lows and highs".
> 
> 
> He says he has Dolby Volume OFF. I'm not sure that ARC is ON. I don't know what he's using as Sources or test content. He's just switched from firmware V2.08 to V2.10, but I don't think he's re-run his ARC setup since that.
> 
> --Bob



Ok Bob.


paradigm25,


I would suggest that you pull your fronts out from the wall about 2'. Also, from looking at your photo, it looks like your sub is located in cabinet. If your sub is located inside of the cabinet, I also suggest that you take it out of the cabinet and probably locate it near one of your fronts. You may have to play around with different locations for your sub; but, I would start by locating it beside one of your fronts.


Also, check to make sure that you have ARC on for each of the sources that you are using.


----------



## DoctorO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21243640
> 
> 
> Yes you can access it. It's just a name and you can use either. It takes less than a second to load. This does not save or load ARC config. This is saved and loaded from a PC. the ARC measurement takes about 20-30 minutes and a few minutes to load. You can config and save 2 ARC configs, Music and Movie. These are set depending on the source or can be changed on the fly.



Does the ARC config include the volume, crossover, etc, or just the room correction? Does change on the fly mean load from the PC or change at the DV?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DoctorO* /forum/post/21266152
> 
> 
> Does the ARC config include the volume, crossover, etc, or just the room correction? Does change on the fly mean load from the PC or change at the DV?



The ARC config does not include the volume, crossovers, source definitions, mode selects etc. Thing you see in the menus and can change are saved in the user and installer saves.


You can change from movie or music ARC as you are watching. The easiest way is to assign two inputs to the same source with different profiles assigned to each. IE assign DVD1 to your disk player with a music profile assigned to the input and assign DVD2 to the same disk player with a movie profile assigned.


----------



## stanger89

So, can I once again be lazy and ask a couple questions? I've been half keeping up with this thread but I want to make sure I've got my story straight.


Anyway, long story short I was all set to buy a 50V this last week while I was traveling (not terribly far) by a dealer I was hoping would be able to make me a deal, suffice to say they didn't and I didn't buy one. I was pleasantly surprised to see they were more "up" on technology (actually knew about some of the not well known equipment I use), so it was a fun talk. But part of that talk raised a few questions with me:


So, preface with with I don't particularly care about 3D today (no 3D display, no near-term urge to get one), but I've had my AVM20 for a very long time, and looking back the only mistake regarding that purchase was I didn't get/wait for the 30 which I could have upgraded to a 50V. I don't really want to do the same thing again.


So, I've read here, and the salesman told me there's a "3D" upgrade coming. Now here's where the questions come:


My reading here gave me the impression that the forthcoming upgrade is a hardware change that would "simply" add HDMI 1.4 support for 3D passthrough. However the saleman made it sound (intentionally or not I do not know) like there was a software-only upgrade for 3D passthrough in the works, and a much more ambitious hardware upgrade. He mentioned 2D-3D conversion.


So question 1 is, which is right? Is the 3D upgrade a board upgrade with "just" 3D passthrough, or is there a 3D software and an "ambitious" 3D hardware upgrade? (I'm inclined to believe the former).


I guess second is an opinion one, if you were going to buy a 50V, would you buy one now, or would it be worth waiting for a new 50V with the 3D upgrade? Actually, are there going to be 50Vs shipping with the 3D upgrade, or is it going to be an add on/option?


Thanks.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/21266933
> 
> 
> So question 1 is, which is right? Is the 3D upgrade a board upgrade with "just" 3D passthrough, or is there a 3D software and an "ambitious" 3D hardware upgrade? (I'm inclined to believe the former).



Wires have been crossed somewhere because it was the MRX receiver that had 3D enabled by software alone. AVM 50v and D2v require hardware unless by some chance (and this applies to any prepro or AVR with HDMI that doesn't recognize 3D) the player and TV allow forcing of the frame-packing format. This is a workaround that must be tried in-system before concluding anything.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/21264961
> 
> 
> I posted a similar problem a while back, and reported it Anthem. On the DTS-HD 2.0 disc I have the AVM doesn't allow any processing, such as PLIIx, to be added so I just get sound from the L & R speakers, as I'd expect. ........ Gary



At least, this part of your problem is same as what I encountered. Switch to PCM input, then processing is possible.


Now that Bob has entered into the picture, I am confident that Anthem will take this issue more seriously, somewhat minor as it is.


Ben


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21267271
> 
> 
> Wires have been crossed somewhere because it was the MRX receiver that had 3D enabled by software alone. AVM 50v and D2v require hardware unless by some chance (and this applies to any prepro or AVR with HDMI that doesn't recognize 3D) the player and TV allow forcing of the frame-packing format. This is a workaround that must be tried in-system before concluding anything.



Thanks Nick, I'd forgotten about the MRX's having a software update, that's probably what happened.


So am I right that the 50V/D2V hardware upgrade just adds 3D Passthrough? If I don't care about 3D for the time being, do you see a compelling reason to wait for a 50V to ship with HDMI 1.4, or would I be just as well off to get a 50V now and potentially get the upgrade at some point?


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21258513
> 
> 
> Shayne
> 
> 
> This is forum of Anthem users trying to help other Anthem users.
> 
> We are users such as you and as individuals have no design or engineering control over the manufacturers or equipment designers or suppliers.
> 
> I understand you are frustrated but instead of replying in anger, read Bob's response carefully.
> 
> No where does he say Bell should bow down or even suggest that Bell change anything they are doing.
> 
> The way I read his response he is suggesting a temporary Work-a Round that completely remedies the problem, without any negative results to the audio, except an extra digital audio cable, while you contact Anthem and confer with them as they may already have an answer to the problem.
> 
> Personally, I would find it is hard to believe, that Anthem a Canadian based company, would not have a priority to remedy a software problem with another Canadian based company.
> 
> Maybe you should try Bob's suggestion to contact Anthem. Whether you keep your HDMI connected or add another digital audio cable while Anthem works it out is up to you.



There was absolutily no anger in my response? And I have read his and your responses.


Regards


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21260695
> 
> 
> In 2006 we discovered something about the HDMI port on the Bell box which was way out of spec and causing us grief so we reported it to HDMI, mostly because of people saying "how can it be the established mega company's fault, it has to be Anthem's" right here on AVS. As a result, HDMI gave Bell 72 hrs to do something about it, and that 72 hrs does not include standard test and certification procedures.
> 
> 
> HDMI uses 2-way communication and old school trial and error diagnosis and elimination doesn't always work.
> 
> 
> btw a 5-year NDA is in effect so this is all I have to say.



Thanks Nick much appreciated. Just wonder why it did not happen on other receivers I have owned. As I said the off on until it kicks in will be the way I will go. Lip sync on dual cables is not any progress for me. The wife get upset but she now knows how to fix it.


Regards


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21261091
> 
> 
> I did a little research via Google and found your sound problems are far from unique with Bell.
> 
> I also became aware that the Bell 9200 unit is obsolete and Bell no longer supports it and replaces them with the 9241.
> 
> 
> It is common knowledge the 9241 suffers from cold solder joints with the HDMI connection to the mother board. just moving the unit can cause intermittent HDMI sound problems
> 
> 
> Here is the Bell CA forum
> 
> 
> Here are some comments from Bell HDMI users
> 
> 
> "The HDMI port has had issues right from the first days of the 9200 models, so it is nothing new. 99% are a pulled solder joint on the Motherboard. "
> 
> 
> "Both of my 9241 are dropping the audio and video. It's pretty erratic in terms of when it happens but it's never really stable and sometimes there is no signal for extended periods."
> 
> 
> And by the way,
> 
> The head moderator on the Bell forum (User Name "57" ) makes the same sugestion to the Bell users that Bob P made to you about using a digital audio cable for the sound.



I now have the 9242 not 9241 which is the better of the 2. I am familiar with the forum you reference but you need to take this info with a grain of salt since it is ran by Bell plants and filter extensively. Again was just wondering if there was a fix other than running more wire. Really did not mean to get all so riled up.


Regards


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/21269246
> 
> 
> I now have the 9242 not 9241 which is the better of the 2. I am familiar with the forum you reference but you need to take this info with a grain of salt since it is ran by Bell plants and filter extensively. Again was just wondering if there was a fix other than running more wire. Really did not mean to get all so riled up.
> 
> 
> Regards



Not a problem.


I womder if since you are in Canada if there is a possibility when you contact Anthem if they would comsider having you ship one of your PVR models to them so they can experience the problem first hand.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/21268487
> 
> 
> So am I right that the 50V/D2V hardware upgrade just adds 3D Passthrough? If I don't care about 3D for the time being, do you see a compelling reason to wait for a 50V to ship with HDMI 1.4, or would I be just as well off to get a 50V now and potentially get the upgrade at some point?



Yes, all it does is add passthrough which is more or less required for 3D. Hard to say whether it's better to buy now or to wait - it all depends on when exactly you'd like to have everything besides the passthrough mode, and whether taking the unit back to the dealer at upgrade time is convenient enough.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/21269201
> 
> 
> As I said the off on until it kicks in will be the way I will go. Lip sync on dual cables is not any progress for me. The wife get upset but she now knows how to fix it.



Are you saying that lip sync delay when using coax or optical is different from lip sync delay when using HDMI audio?


Some channels are badly out of sync for their own reasons - nothing to do with the home equipment.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21270759
> 
> 
> Yes, all it does is add passthrough which is more or less required for 3D. Hard to say whether it's better to buy now or to wait - it all depends on when exactly you'd like to have everything besides the passthrough mode, and whether taking the unit back to the dealer at upgrade time is convenient enough.



Thanks again Nick, always appreciate your insights. Like I said I don't particularly care about 3D, don't have any near-term plans to "upgrade" to a 3D projector (especially not if I get a 50V







). Are we still looking at a January release for the upgrade?


----------



## AVfile

D2v firmware 2.12p is on the beta site. Anyone try it on an AVM-50v?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21273961
> 
> 
> D2v firmware 2.12p is on the beta site. Anyone try it on an AVM-50v?


*DO NOT DO THAT!*


That version is only for use with the pre-release test hardware of the 3D upgrade for the D2v.


(And in general, you don't install D2v hardware on an AVM 50v anyway.)

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Bob, I note that this update for the D2V also fixes the following; so am I right to assume if we DONT have the 3D on our D2v we still might want to use this update (2.12P) to fix other issues lised?

2.12p beta - fixed:

1. Corrupted Audio Transitioning from 5.1 LPCM to 5.1 DD Bitstream

2. Slow HDMI Transition from 1080p/59.94 to 1080p/23.976 input

As well, similar reported issues may be fixed although we're not sure because we do not have the sources and displays as beta testers.

Known issues - both apply to non-Through mode only:

a. Switching between inputs on the top board especially 480i to 1080p and back (sometimes takes up to 50 switches) may cause the video processor to hang, requiring restart.

b. Occasional pink screen when switching between inputs on the top board.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21274082
> 
> *DO NOT DO THAT!*
> 
> 
> That version is only for use with the pre-release test hardware of the 3D upgrade for the D2v.
> 
> 
> (And in general, you don't install D2v hardware on an AVM 50v anyway.)
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No, not yet. That firmware is only for units that have the test hardware.


Don't go beyond V2.11 in your D2v or AVM 50v.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/21270905
> 
> 
> Are we still looking at a January release for the upgrade?



Production is scheduled for mid-January. How this propagates through all phases including distribution is something I really can't answer but would guess a minimum of three weeks for the first unit off the production line to end up in a dealer's hands, and that's assuming an order was placed right away.


That's best-case and even though there's nothing right now to say otherwise, anything can happen. Nothing is certain before the release is announced though our web site and/or dealer memo.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21274743
> 
> 
> That's best-case and even though there's nothing right now to say otherwise, anything can happen. Nothing is certain before the release is announced though our web site and/or dealer memo.



I know how that goes, thanks again for the info.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

v2.12p can in fact be used on any D2v (not AVM 50v but that's coming too) and the non-Through mode changes are in effect for all "v" models but these days we're focused on 3D units and will field-test on the remainder in the near future.


As a reminder, beta software is on a password protected site and not meant for use without tech support's recommendation.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21274839
> 
> 
> v2.12p can in fact be used on any D2v (not AVM 50v but that's coming too) and the non-Through mode changes are in effect for all "v" models but these days we're focused on 3D units and will field-test on the remainder in the near future.
> 
> 
> As a reminder, beta software is on a password protected site and not meant for use without tech support's recommendation.



OK, that's news.


However, I would suggest anyone wanting to try this on their D2v should be more than usually tolerant of (potentially unpleasant) surprises -- perhaps even to the point that you feel the need to roll back to a prior version. If you are more focussed on having a working unit than helping out with testing, it is still probably best, at this point, to go no further than V2.11. Obviously that will change as the new firmware gets more baked.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21274201
> 
> 
> Bob, I note that this update for the D2V also fixes the following; so am I right to assume if we DONT have the 3D on our D2v we still might want to use this update (2.12P) to fix other issues lised?
> 
> 2.12p beta - fixed:
> 
> 1. Corrupted Audio Transitioning from 5.1 LPCM to 5.1 DD Bitstream
> 
> 2. Slow HDMI Transition from 1080p/59.94 to 1080p/23.976 input
> 
> As well, similar reported issues may be fixed although we're not sure because we do not have the sources and displays as beta testers.
> 
> Known issues - both apply to non-Through mode only:
> 
> a. Switching between inputs on the top board especially 480i to 1080p and back (sometimes takes up to 50 switches) may cause the video processor to hang, requiring restart.
> 
> b. Occasional pink screen when switching between inputs on the top board.



Those of us with a D2 could use these fixes also. (Remember us?)


Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Umm, Ken, the "fixes" in that list are all for problems introduced in firmware between V2.11 and V2.12p. The "known problems" are also things introduced in firmware after V2.11.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/21275033
> 
> 
> Those of us with a D2 could use these fixes also. (Remember us?)



The D2 doesn't have the problems that are listed for the beta 3D units, nor an upper HDMI board for that matter. The whole "where are the D2 upgrades" thing was discussed at length in this thread last April. Excerpts:


If you have a real D2 issue that justifies a fix through D2 software then send your request to [email protected] but be warned that if it's in regard to an old source with a history of HDMI instability then there won't be a fix.


v1.47f addresses video cards that expect to see a captive video monitor. We provided a fix for this because video cards that did not support hot-plugging and switching (contrary to HDMI spec) were widely used in hi-end servers. It's not an issue with most newer video cards.


If you haven't done so send a detailed description of the quirk to tech support but be warned that for a problem to be fixable it has to be reproducible i.e. the software engineers need the exact steps to make it happen often enough to catch.


----------



## Texas steve

All words of wisdom - thanks!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21274939
> 
> 
> OK, that's news.
> 
> 
> However, I would suggest anyone wanting to try this on their D2v should be more than usually tolerant of (potentially unpleasant) surprises -- perhaps even to the point that you feel the need to roll back to a prior version. If you are more focussed on having a working unit than helping out with testing, it is still probably best, at this point, to go no further than V2.11. Obviously that will change as the new firmware gets more baked.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

I suppose that #2 on the list of upgrades would be the most beneficial to the D2. It takes quite awhile to switch fro 1080p/24 to 1080/60 and vice/versa. It took so long for me that I use a sd dvd and a bd player in my setup just so I don't have to wait for the D2 to switch.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Ken, besides specifying your setup and equipment and sending the info to tech support if you'd like results I think you're missing the main point: Switching in the D2 is as good as it can get when 2-way handshakes between *three* pieces of equipment are involved. In the as-yet-unreleased model it used to take longer and the goal was to make it like more like the D2. Always be careful what you wish for!


----------



## MACCA350

So Bob, any of these issues been addressed in the new firmware?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/20844765
> 
> 
> So the level issues seem to be:
> 
> 
> 1) D2v PLIIx processing adds +3dB on Center, L/R, SL/R, SUB channels when the D2v is decoding DTS-HDMA 5.1 or LPCM 5.1
> 
> (It may may or may not be applying +3dB on the newly created Surround Back L/R channels as this has not been tested)
> Reference , Reference
> 
> 
> 2) D2v (including OPPO and PS3) is applying DialNorm as per Dolby spec, ie DD and TrueHD bitstreams with -27dBFS are reduced by -4dB.
> Reference , Reference
> 
> 
> 3) D2v (including OPPO and PS3) is applying applying DialNorm to Legacy DTS bitstreams with encoded DialNorm values.
> 
> (Note: WOTW DTS 5.1 track is encoded with a DialNorm value(-4dB). This seems to cause a -4dB DN Offset on DTSHD decoders. Need to test on old DTS decoder to confirm this was ignored by Legacy DTS decoders)
> Reference , Reference
> 
> 
> 4) D2v is applying +3dB to all channels except L/R when decoding DTS-HDMA 5.1
> Reference (7)
> 
> 
> 5) D2v is applying -3dB to L/R channels when decoding DTS-HDMA 7.1 (also some SL/SR content is being redirected to L/R speakers at low level, could also affect issue 4)
> Reference , Reference (10), (13)
> 
> 
> 6) D2v is applying -6dB to Surround Back L/R channels when decoding TrueHD 7.1
> 
> (I have confirmed SBL/R are encoded at the same level as the Centre channel)
> Reference
> 
> 
> (I can add issues and references to specific posts later, so let me know if I've missed some or something needs correction/adjustment)
> 
> 
> cheers


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21274939
> 
> 
> However, I would suggest anyone wanting to try this on their D2v should be more than usually tolerant of (potentially unpleasant) surprises -- perhaps even to the point that you feel the need to roll back to a prior version. If you are more focussed on having a working unit than helping out with testing, it is still probably best, at this point, to go no further than V2.11. Obviously that will change as the new firmware gets more baked.
> 
> --Bob



Agreed I have been at 2.10 for a long time and only just upgraded to 2.11 release (not beta). However I am interested in 2.12p now because the release notes for Custom Resolution Manager say it is required. If that's true then I can't use Custom Resolution Manager yet because I have a 50v.


----------



## JimP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21274743
> 
> 
> Production is scheduled for mid-January. How this propagates through all phases including distribution is something I really can't answer but would guess a minimum of three weeks for the first unit off the production line to end up in a dealer's hands, and that's assuming an order was placed right away.
> 
> 
> That's best-case and even though there's nothing right now to say otherwise, anything can happen. Nothing is certain before the release is announced though our web site and/or dealer memo.



Nick....


I've held off buying a D2V because I wanted to wait until 3D was implemented and bugfree. I've also felt that since ARC ran better at 10Khz and below that it probably didn't have enough processor power to go full range. Any improvements in processor power in this new production or is it 3D only????


----------



## Bob Pariseau

How far up you can push ARC and get good results depends on how much correction it is being asked to do and the quality of your Measurements at treble frequencies. Many people such as me are happily using ARC results with Max EQ Frequency set to something higher than 10KHz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21276609
> 
> 
> So Bob, any of these issues been addressed in the new firmware?



Ask Again Later; The Future is Hazy

--Bob


----------



## JimP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21278974
> 
> 
> How far up you can push ARC and get good results depends on how much correction it is being asked to do and the quality of your Measurements at treble frequencies. Many people such as me are happily using ARC results with Max EQ Frequency set to something higher than 10KHz.
> 
> --Bob



Understood.


But for those of us who don't have a dedicated home theater that's fully or partially accoustically treated, having more processing power may be reason to buy the D2V or pass on it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/21279420
> 
> 
> Understood.
> 
> 
> But for those of us who don't have a dedicated home theater that's fully or partially accoustically treated, having more processing power may be reason to buy the D2V or pass on it.



I've seen ARC tame some pretty outrageous rooms.


Often the limitation is that there's a safety feature built in to ARC. It won't attempt to boost a dip more than +6dB. That's to protect speakers and amps. Consider that if you have a broken speaker, pumping outlandish signal into the amp still won't produce output. And if you have a cancellation null, pumping in more signal to the speaker just means more energy gets cancelled by that null.


The upshot is that if ARC in the D2v or AVM 50v is truly resource limited, that usually means you've got a room or equipment problem that likely really does need to be addressed -- such as by repositioning speakers for example. Or you can tweak the "cutoff" frequency values in ARC to keep it from trying to use the problem speakers in the problem frequency range.


I guess what I'm saying, is that I don't really recall running into cases where adding more resources (processing power) into ARC would have made the difference.


Now the situation is different in the MRX receivers. They have about half the processing power of ARC in the D2v or AVM 50v, and there are some rooms where that will make the difference.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Bob,

As a guess, what % do you think are operating higher than 10khz? Any others chime in on your set-up.

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well of course Anthem recommends people just leave it at 5KHz, so I imagine most folks haven't even tried raising it.


Of the folks who've tried, and decided they liked a higher value, I would expect that MOST are using something in the range 12-20KHz. I'm using 15KHz in my current solution.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/21278941
> 
> 
> Nick....
> 
> 
> I've held off buying a D2V because I wanted to wait until 3D was implemented and bugfree. I've also felt that since ARC ran better at 10Khz and below that it probably didn't have enough processor power to go full range. Any improvements in processor power in this new production or is it 3D only????



Nothing to do with processing power in the AVM/D's case. The mic is not reliable above 5 kHz unless, maybe, it is on the same plane as the tweeter. You just have to try different max frequencies and stick with whatever sounds best.


Practically all so-called omnidirectional mics become increasingly directional as frequency increases. Just to put things into perspective watch how this studio mic which costs more than the whole D2v becomes directional:

http://www.neumann.com/index.php?lan...s&cid=d01_data 


Click on "Interactive view of diagrams" then 8 kHz and 16 kHz. On the circle diagram pretend the mic capsule is pointing north. That's just one example - there are countless others.


----------



## Texas steve

Interesting! I also tried different settings as above about 7K I had a sharp decrease. In the end I choose the 5K default as I felt it was to harsh at anything above 7k setting. Its also a balance of where to force the processing to make the smooth overall curve.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21280178
> 
> 
> Nothing to do with processing power in the AVM/D's case. The mic is not reliable above 5 kHz unless, maybe, it is on the same plane as the tweeter. You just have to try different max frequencies and stick with whatever sounds best.
> 
> 
> Practically all so-called omnidirectional mics become increasingly directional as frequency increases. Just to put things into perspective watch how this studio mic which costs more than the whole D2v becomes directional:
> 
> http://www.neumann.com/index.php?lan...s&cid=d01_data
> 
> 
> Click on "Interactive view of diagrams" then 8 kHz and 16 kHz. On the circle diagram pretend the mic capsule is pointing north. That's just one example - there are countless others.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting! I also tried different settings as above about 7K I had a sharp decrease. In the end I choose the 5K default as I felt it was to harsh at anything above 7k setting. Its also a balance of where to force the processing to make the smooth overall curve.



That typically means you don't have good quality Measured data at the high frequencies, just as Nick said. Trust your ears and stick with 5KHz if that sounds better.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Guys,

Whenever you email Anthem, please state the importance of Nick's input to all of us. He is invaluable. Believe me, in 40 years in the industry, there has NEVER been anything like this. The opportunity to converse with the most informed source on your product is unprecented. Give a good word to Nick and his sidekicks ,Pierro and Anthony. Find another manufacturer with this kind of support. As a dealer, i find his info superoir to anything I get directly from the factory. What an great inside education!

P.S. Not to slight Bob in any way, he is our man on the scene and we greatly him.

TJG

TJG


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Another way of "forcing" better data for upper frequencies is varying mic height. Still comes down to trial and error.


TJG, aw shucks, thanks. If only I had more time... and I don't know how Bob does it.


----------



## TJG55

Guess I left out the "appreciate" in regards to Bob.

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I figured you were just leaving it to the reader to supply their own, favorite verb!









--Bob


----------



## TJG55

We could have a contest to supply your favorite verb. Weigh in, guys.

TJG


----------



## studlygoorite

I am intersted to see if the new beta firmware actually does help with the switch from 24fps to 60 and visa versa as it takes around 30 seconds on my D2v. If no one reports this I will give her a go on the weekend. If it does, this would be a major plus.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21279732
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> As a guess, what % do you think are operating higher than 10khz? Any others chime in on your set-up.
> 
> TJG



Before you do that you can take this test:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t=hearing+test 

To figure out first how good or bad is your hearing.

And then at higher frequency sound is very directional so it is not possible to fix every seating position if your room has a complex shape.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/21283848
> 
> 
> Before you do that you can take this test:
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t=hearing+test
> 
> To figure out first how good or bad is your hearing.
> 
> And then at higher frequency sound is very directional so it is not possible to fix every seating position if your room has a complex shape.



I'm no expert on hearing, but I do wonder whether tests like that accurately reflect how people perceive more complicate waveforms such as those produced by musical instruments.


You may not hear a pure tone at a higher frequency, which truly does reflect a degradation of hearing, but I suspect you MAY still sense the difference in timbre of a sound that is mostly lower frequencies but includes higher harmonics.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Be careful with the test!


You might be tempted but DO NOT increase the volume, relative to 1 kHz, to try and better hear the upper frequencies, otherwise you might end up sending the full power of the amp to the tweeters and they'll smoke in no time. Natural sounds and typical recorded music that's not heavy on synthesizers contains a lot more energy in the lower frequencies than in the upper ones so unless they're special-purpose, tweeters only have to handle a pretty small fraction of the speaker's overall power capability.


For a proper test like this you have to start at the upper end of the frequency range. Starting at the lower end could give false results because ringing in the ears from the previous tone might be mistaken as ability to hear the next higher one.


Our upper hearing limit drops off as a slope not a cliff, the same way crossover response works so even though you might hear say 16 kHz it might not be as clear as 12 kHz for example. This is where you don't want to be turning up the volume. If you're over 40 and can still hear the flyback transformer's high-pitched squeal coming from a CRT television (any of those things still around?) you're probably doing fine. If you're under 30 and can't, stop abusing your ears.


Hearing clinics usually only measure to 8 kHz, maybe 12 kHz by special request, because the phase response of the ear canal affects measurement accuracy. They usually don't charge very much for an exam even if you have no intention of buying aids. If interested just call and ask.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21284027
> 
> 
> I'm no expert on hearing, but I do wonder whether tests like that accurately reflect how people perceive more complicate waveforms such as those produced by musical instruments.
> 
> 
> You may not hear a pure tone at a higher frequency, which truly does reflect a degradation of hearing, but I suspect you MAY still sense the difference in timbre of a sound that is mostly lower frequencies but includes higher harmonics.
> 
> --Bob



Every time I look it seems the verdict is still not in. As far as I know this started in the 1970s with a Japanese study which concluded that the presence of supersonic frequencies affects the timbre of those in the audio range. The problem with their conclusion was that the difference in sound was nothing more than intermodulation distortion.


More recently studies have been done to determine whether recording at hi-res sampling rates have an audible effect. One, the controversial Meyer/Moran bottleneck test, says probably not while another says yes, but. Here's another example of how results can be misinterpreted and myths spread by those who don't take the time to read more than the abstract:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...2&postcount=35


----------



## rovingtravler

Being former military and a Helicopter pilot in the Army our hearing was monitered a min of once a year but recommended twice a year. I can tell you my hearing above 10KH (they test to 20) is still stellar. I have about 5db loss in sensitivity from standard. That is not too bad for my age and the flight time.


----------



## Kensmith48

I'm thinking of running ARC again on my D2. The pair of Def. Tech. Reference subs just don't seem to be performing up to par. I checked the backs of each sub and one had the hi pass filter set at half way and the low pass filter on each sub was set at half way. The hi pass and the low pass both have to be set at the highest setting correct?


Thanks,

Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/21285753
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of running ARC again on my D2. The pair of Def. Tech. Reference subs just don't seem to be performing up to par. I checked the backs of each sub and one had the hi pass filter set at half way and the low pass filter on each sub was set at half way. The hi pass and the low pass both have to be set at the highest setting correct?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



No. The low pass is the crossover. It limits the high bass reproduction of the sub. Disable it or put it to the highest possible value if you can't disable it to get it out of the way as much as possible. ARC in the Anthem will do the necessary crossover processing instead.


The high pass is the low bass limitation. It limits the lowest frequency bass reproduction of the sub for folks who are having problems such as Boundary Gain (low bass increase due to the sub interacting with a nearby wall). You want to get that out of the way as much as possible too, but you do that by setting it to the LOWEST value. That let's ARC hear the fullest possible range of output of the Sub. ARC will adjust that as necessary to correct for issues like Boundary Gain. DO NOT completely disable the high pass. It provides protection against very low frequency signals that might make it to the sub. This is particularly vital if you tell ARC to use "flat" for the sub.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

the *new beta 2.12q* is now on the tech download page and it works for both the D2v and AVM50v. It is always prudent to heed Bob's warnings about

BETA software. It should be used only when Anthem Tech suggests you do or you are a risk taker









John


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21286068
> 
> 
> No. The low pass is the crossover. It limits the high bass reproduction of the sub. Disable it or put it to the highest possible value if you can't disable it to get it out of the way as much as possible. ARC in the Anthem will do the necessary crossover processing instead.
> 
> 
> The high pass is the low bass limitation. It limits the lowest frequency bass reproduction of the sub for folks who are having problems such as Boundary Gain (low bass increase due to the sub interacting with a nearby wall). You want to get that out of the way as much as possible too, but you do that by setting it to the LOWEST value. That let's ARC hear the fullest possible range of output of the Sub. ARC will adjust that as necessary to correct for issues like Boundary Gain. DO NOT completely disable the high pass. It provides protection against very low frequency signals that might make it to the sub. This is particularly vital if you tell ARC to use "flat" for the sub.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob

The low and the hi pass dials on the back of each sub has a range of 40 to 150Hz, what do you suggest as a setting for each? I'm using the LFE In connector so I don't think the High pass filter is even working. According to the manual the High pass filter only works when the low-level inputs (wired) are used on the sub.


Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob
> 
> The low and the hi pass dials on the back of each sub has a range of 40 to 150Hz, what do you suggest as a setting for each? I'm using the LFE In connector so I don't think the High pass filter is even working. According to the manual the High pass filter only works when the low-level inputs (wired) are used on the sub.
> 
> 
> Ken



Well that's what I get for assuming how your sub works without reading its manual.


The description I gave you for the high pass filter is obviously not correct for your sub.


Read the manual on your sub. I'll guess again and say that the high pass setting controls OUTPUT jacks on your sub so that if you connect the LF/RF speaker outputs of your amp to the sub then the sub will extract bass according to the low pass setting and pass on the rest according to the high pass setting to output jacks intended to connect to your LF/RF speakers.


But that's not how you wire a sub when using the Anthem. So you need to find the line level input on the sub -- where you connect the cable from the sub out of the Anthem -- and then read in the manual whether or not those two settings have any effect on that input.


It's quite possible that high pass setting has no effect on the input you are supposed to use on the sub.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48




Bob Pariseau said:


> It's quite possible that high pass setting has no effect on the input you are supposed to use on the sub.
> 
> 
> According to the manual if I use the single LFE in on the Sub then the Anthem does both the Hi and the Low processing. The L/R LFE in's (wired) on the Sub are to be used if the Processor doesn't do any filtering.
> 
> 
> Thanks for helping me to sort this out. Now I have to figure out why I'm getting such a weak output from my subs.
> 
> 
> Ken


----------



## tngiloy




Kensmith48 said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21286498
> 
> 
> 
> It's quite possible that high pass setting has no effect on the input you are supposed to use on the sub.
> 
> 
> According to the manual if I use the single LFE in on the Sub then the Anthem does both the Hi and the Low processing. The L/R LFE in's (wired) on the Sub are to be used if the Processor doesn't do any filtering.
> 
> 
> Thanks for helping me to sort this out. Now I have to figure out why I'm getting such a weak output from my subs.
> 
> 
> Ken
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting up multiple subs can be tricky.
> 
> Its possible that your subs are cancelling each other out at certain frequencies.
> 
> 
> Bob wrote a post a few pages back discussing how to set the phase for each sub individually to the LF.
> 
> If you have done this, then a good realworld test is to go into the Anthem setup>speaker levels and set the test to manual and choose 'sub'. Walk around your listening area. If you hear an obvious drop in volume (or see it on an SPL meter) then try changing the phase on one of your subs.
> 
> 
> I was experiencing the same low sub level that you were when I used 2 subs in my HT. When I ran this test I actually lost all sub output when I stood between my subs. They were completely nullifying each other. When I switched phase on one sub to 180* and left the other at 0* I got an even sub level throughout the room. I probably got lucky, but 180* is probably a good place to start if you have this null effect.
> 
> 
> If you have an extra $800 you can also get an SVS AS-eq1 that does the phase/polarity adjustment for multiple subs. I think Kris Deering said he used it for his multiple subs in conjunction with his ARC, and he got outstanding results.
> 
> 
> Tom
Click to expand...


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks Tom,

I have the Velodyne SMS-1. I'll check to see if it can do the phase/polarity adjustment.


Ken


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/21289496
> 
> 
> Thanks Tom,
> 
> I have the Velodyne SMS-1. I'll check to see if it can do the phase/polarity adjustment.
> 
> 
> Ken



An excellent tool for checking phase/polarity, Ken. You can see the response in real time on your screen. I use it myself.


Ben


----------



## dbox1080p

Hi guys


I just got my anthem avm40 back from the dealer where he upgraded the unit to arc but I have a problem .When I load up the disk that came in the box I go into the install wisard and it breaks down giving me an error message D Anthemroomcorrection.exe.manifest verify that the file exists and that you can access it ?


Is there somthing wrong with the disk?


Edit: I just want to add that I am running windows 7


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/21292896
> 
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> I just got my anthem avm40 back from the dealer where he upgraded the unit to arc but I have a problem .When I load up the disk that came in the box I go into the install wisard and it breaks down giving me an error message D Anthemroomcorrection.exe.manifest verify that the file exists and that you can access it ?
> 
> 
> Is there somthing wrong with the disk?
> 
> 
> Edit: I just want to add that I am running windows 7



I'd download the latest from the website. There is no problem with windows 7, that's what I'm running.


----------



## dbox1080p

Download an arc program from anthem.com ?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/21293256
> 
> 
> Download an arc program from anthem.com ?



Actually Anthemav.com


----------



## dbox1080p

I downloaded the latest and it does not work. I think after paying $852 for an arc add on my dealer should have had me better informed or anthem should maybe have sent the updated version


well I went and downloaded from anthem and it worked until I went to run arc and go a message that the processor serial number cannot find the serial number for the mic


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/21293326
> 
> 
> I downloaded the latest and it does not work. I think after paying $852 for an arc add on my dealer should have had me better informed or anthem should maybe have sent the updated version
> 
> 
> well I went and downloaded from anthem and it worked until I went to run arc and go a message that the processor serial number cannot find the serial number for the mic



Just send an email to [email protected] , they can regenerate the license file from the serial number of your processor.

It should also be on the original arc cd if you gave the correct serial no when you order the arc option. If you are using the web download, just make sure to copy the license to your arc install directory. The arc license file look like this: 123456_789000.cal.


----------



## kamenoff

Guys, just apart from the D2v settings, any news on upgrade of D2v with 1.4 HDMI? I am on the market for new processor and Anthem is on top of my list but what stops me is the lack of 1.4 HDMI and the fact that the unit is about 5-6 year old. I undersatnd that there are new processors are on the market which offer even 36/192 decoding.

I also understand that Denon has been upgrading for awhile their A1 processor with 1.4 HDMI...I just don't want to buy D2v now and in month or two to pay extra money for upgrade...

Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## dbox1080p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/21293680
> 
> 
> Just send an email to [email protected] , they can regenerate the license file from the serial number of your processor.
> 
> It should also be on the original arc cd if you gave the correct serial no when you order the arc option. If you are using the web download, just make sure to copy the license to your arc install directory. The arc license file look like this: 123456_789000.cal.



You my friend are one smart man. After drowning my sorrows with beer because of my ARC failure you post the solution. I did exactly what you said and looked for that ****.cal file and just dragged from the CD into the ARC program I downloaded on the website and then it asked me to verify the mic number with the serial.


My anthem was like shutting down and I was like "Fu*N I broke it or messed up the intenal software and it wont work. Its too late at night now @3am to do my arc but I did get to hear the pulse from it so I know its working and cant wait to try it in the morning


Thank you kindly Trantle for fixing my problem and taking all the stress out of my night. N ow its time to fill a baby bottle with some jack D, put on a adult diaper and go night night


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kamenoff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Guys, just apart from the D2v settings, any news on upgrade of D2v with 1.4 HDMI? I am on the market for new processor and Anthem is on top of my list but what stops me is the lack of 1.4 HDMI and the fact that the unit is about 5-6 year old. I undersatnd that there are new processors are on the market which offer even 36/192 decoding.
> 
> I also understand that Denon has been upgrading for awhile their A1 processor with 1.4 HDMI...I just don't want to buy D2v now and in month or two to pay extra money for upgrade...
> 
> Thanks for the feedback.



The d2v is not 5-6 yrs old, perhaps 2-3. The hdmi 1.4 upgrade is scheduled for late January. New D2vs will likely include this upgrade at that time.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2v first shipped in 2009.

--Bob


----------



## kamenoff

Thank you but not according to the first page of this forum where anouncement was made in April 2006.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kamenoff* /forum/post/21295655
> 
> 
> Thank you but not according to the first page of this forum where anouncement was made in April 2006.



If you are talking about the review of the D2 that's not a D2v. I think the 2009 date is correct.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2 and the D2v are two separate models.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> If you are talking about the review of the D2 that's not a D2v. I think the 2009 date is correct.



Feb. 2009, got mine in June 2009.

John


----------



## slots1

Got my D2 in 2006 and exchanged it about one year ago for the D2v. Bob is right it came out in about Feb 2009


----------



## kamenoff

What were the defferences between D2 and D2v?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kamenoff* /forum/post/21297722
> 
> 
> What were the defferences between D2 and D2v?



See this chart from Anthem:

http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-...-chart/details 


Although they no longer include a column for the original D2 in it, almost all of the comparisons against the original AVM 50 apply.


In summary:


Next generation video processor (36 bit "Deep Color" processing)

More DSP power for audio processing

Allows 7.1 192 KHz HDMI input

8 HDMI inputs / 2 outputs (outputs run in parallel -- same video on each)

Decodes TrueHD and DTS-HD MA HDMI Bitstream input

Adds Dolby Volume processing

Comes bundled with Anthem Room Correction (ARC)

--Bob


----------



## cougar75

All this D2/D2v talk. What's my 50v, chopped liver??


----------



## lesterjd

I would like some advice please, I have an Oppo 95 connected to my D2v and all is great well until I wanted to add a external hard drive to the Oppo. In viewing the content's of the hard drive I did not want to have the Projector on for when I play music etc so I needed another monitor I tried the second HDMI on the Oppo but the D2v swapped to a down mix 5.1 for when I wanted to go back to movie watching which I believe the Oppo95 does when you use the second HDMI output. The aim was to keep both monitors connected and when I needed to view the content on say my lilliput 1080p 8" monitor I could just turn off my PJ. Then I noticed two HDMI's on the Anthem great I said (had the thing for two year's) connected the lilliput to the second HDMI output and no picture, so can you use the two output's independently from each other or is there something that I am missing. Your help is needed.



Regards Lesterjd


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lesterjd* /forum/post/21298461
> 
> 
> I would like some advice please, I have an Oppo 95 connected to my D2v and all is great well until I wanted to add a external hard drive to the Oppo. In viewing the content's of the hard drive I did not want to have the Projector on for when I play music etc so I needed another monitor I tried the second HDMI on the Oppo but the D2v swapped to a down mix 5.1 for when I wanted to go back to movie watching which I believe the Oppo95 does when you use the second HDMI output. The aim was to keep both monitors connected and when I needed to view the content on say my lilliput 1080p 8" monitor I could just turn off my PJ. Then I noticed two HDMI's on the Anthem great I said (had the thing for two year's) connected the lilliput to the second HDMI output and no picture, so can you use the two output's independently from each other or is there something that I am missing. Your help is needed.
> 
> Regards Lesterjd



Lesterjd,


I have a similar setup working very nicely right now for the exact reasons you mention. I use a small 7inch Xenarc HDMI monitor next to my favorite listening seat so that I can navigate the Oppo95's GUI to choose music servers on my network, play tunes, etc. I use the HDMI2 output from the D2V to the Xenarc 7inch monitor, while leaving HDMI1 out going directly to my Elite 70inch LED set. I don't like using the Elite for just surfing my music collection. I do get occasional handshake "blinking" when I first turn on the little monitor after watching the big one. But the HDMI handshaking then settles down like 5 seconds later and all is well. This works in any order of power on/off of the 2 sets. Now, the only time I cannot get a picture on the little 7inch is when the video output resolution on the D2V is set to 1080p/24 for a particular input (the 'virtual' input I labelled Blu-Ray). That may be what is happening is that you may have your Oppo set to output 1080p/24 and/or the D2V is set for a video output of 1080p/24 when the Oppo is the source. To solve this, all I did was create separate 'virtual Sources' on the D2V. For instance, I have one called DVD-WS for widescreen DVD viewing. When I choose "Listen-->Music" on my Universal MX-950, I have it programmed with macro to choose the DVD-WS input on the D2V. This ensures that the video output signal seen by the D2V is 1080p/60 and likewise that is what is output to the HDMI2 (and 1 for that matter) during music listening time. The little 7inch monitor can handle 1080p/60 in other words, but not 1080p/24. Perhaps yours is the same as mine in that regard.


Just a thought, hope it helps.

-Brian


----------



## lesterjd

Hi Brian, thanks for the reply and good points I will check the Oppo setting to see if that helps plus the D2v as it's now nearly 7 o clock and that's movie time will post back my finding as soon as I can.


Lesterjd


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lesterjd* /forum/post/21298686
> 
> 
> Hi Brian, thanks for the reply and good points I will check the Oppo setting to see if that helps plus the D2v as it's now nearly 7 o clock and that's movie time will post back my finding as soon as I can.
> 
> 
> Lesterjd



Great, yeah, and just to be clear, I have the Oppo set to output 1080p in all cases. I have the 24p flag set to 'Auto', meaning that the Oppo will figure out when to use 24p output and when not to. In other words, I have the Oppo doing the video upscaling itself, not relying on the D2V for that. The upscaling in the Oppo is very nice, so I feel like I'm not losing anything there at all. Others have seemed to concur. The reason this is important to point out is that it is important that when listening to sources like DVD-Audio discs in the Oppo, if you really want the best full bandwidth audio to come through to the D2V, you need to ensure the Oppo is set to output 1080p. If you have it on Source Direct for instance, I don't believe you will get the full high resolution audio from things like DVD Audio discs. I have a lot of these, so it's important to me.


Just wanted to complete the picture for ya. Let us know how it works out with that little monitor. It's a life-saver having that second HDMI output on the D2V, never thought it would be so important to me until now 


Cheers,

-Brian


----------



## Carlton Bale

Can someone please remind me the lower frequency limit on Anthem Room Correction? Will it EQ subsonic (down to 5 Hz)?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All this D2/D2v talk. What's my 50v, chopped liver??



Yeah just get a 50v (unless you must have the statement faceplate and upsampling DACs) and put the $2k towards Statement amps


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All this D2/D2v talk. What's my 50v, chopped liver??



I'd eat that chopped liver anytime









John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/21298746
> 
> 
> Great, yeah, and just to be clear, I have the Oppo set to output 1080p in all cases. I have the 24p flag set to 'Auto', meaning that the Oppo will figure out when to use 24p output and when not to. In other words, I have the Oppo doing the video upscaling itself, not relying on the D2V for that. The upscaling in the Oppo is very nice, so I feel like I'm not losing anything there at all. Others have seemed to concur. The reason this is important to point out is that it is important that when listening to sources like DVD-Audio discs in the Oppo, if you really want the best full bandwidth audio to come through to the D2V, you need to ensure the Oppo is set to output 1080p. If you have it on Source Direct for instance, I don't believe you will get the full high resolution audio from things like DVD Audio discs. I have a lot of these, so it's important to me.
> 
> 
> Just wanted to complete the picture for ya. Let us know how it works out with that little monitor. It's a life-saver having that second HDMI output on the D2V, never thought it would be so important to me until now
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> -Brian



Brian


The monitor you are using is it connected wired or wireless ?


Sounds like a great idea but I am wondering how to get it connected about 15 feet away from my equipment rack and no where to run a cable.


Stew


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21298751
> 
> 
> Yeah just get a 50v (unless you must have the statement faceplate and upsampling DACs) and put the $2k towards Statement amps



Anyone heard the new Anthem Signature M1 amps or seen a comprehensive listening review on them?

Anthem recently announced this new concept and design for a Class D amp but they are nowhere to be found or heard.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21298862
> 
> 
> Brian
> 
> 
> The monitor you are using is it connected wired or wireless ?
> 
> 
> Sounds like a great idea but I am wondering how to get it connected about 15 feet away from my equipment rack and no where to run a cable.
> 
> 
> Stew



Ahh, but that's where I'm really just lucky. My favorite recliner in the living room happens to be about 18 feet away from the big TV, but right next to my Salamander equipment rack that houses all my AV gear. I just made sure that the little 7 inch monitor is on one of the Salamander shelves exactly at eye level when I'm parked in the recliner! This is my favorite reading/relaxing chair and though not the ideal listening location, it is plenty good thanks to ARC.


Wired via HDMI.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21298876
> 
> 
> Anyone heard the new Anthem Signature M1 amps or seen a comprehensive listening review on them?
> 
> Anthem recently announced this new concept and design for a Class D amp but they are nowhere to be found or heard.



takes time to get them out and reviews are traditionally slow.

John


----------



## Randall Morton

Could someone take a look at my ARC files and make suggestions. Thanks.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/21299407
> 
> 
> Could someone take a look at my ARC files and make suggestions. Thanks.



Your charts look good. If your sub has low frequency protection, you should change the setting from Auto to Flat. If you do change it from Auto to Flat, you will not have to re-run ARC. Just calculate, save your file, and upload. Also, post your Targets' View. The big question is how does it sound to you?


----------



## Randall Morton

It sounds good except the sub volume seems too low. I use a Radio shack sound pressure meter before running ARC to adjust the level of the sub.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Your charts look good. If your sub has low frequency protection, you should change the setting from Auto to Flat. If you do change it from Auto to Flat, you will not have to re-run ARC. Just calculate, save your file, and upload. Also, post your Targets' View. The big question is how does it sound to you?



+1

After doing what ninja12 suggested you should be good to go.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/21299504
> 
> 
> It sounds good except the sub volume seems too low. I use a Radio shack sound pressure meter before running ARC to adjust the level of the sub.



Post your Targets' View and your speaker level trims. What kind of sub do you have?


----------



## Randall Morton

I don't think I have an Auto or Flat. Seaton Sub has a PGM SEL button. I have the button in which is what is recommended. Thanks for the help.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't think I have an Auto or Flat. Seaton Sub has a PGM SEL button. I have the button in which is what is recommended. Thanks for the help.



Flat is set in ARC advanced settings, not your sub.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/21299538
> 
> 
> I don't think I have an Auto or Flat. Seaton Sub has a PGM SEL button. I have the button in which is what is recommended. Thanks for the help.



Since you have a Seaton, you should set it to Flat. You can do it by:

1) Bring up your Targets' View

2) Click on the Advance Button

3) Change Auto to Flat.

4) Click Ok

5) Click Calculate

6) Save your ARC File

7) Upload the ARC File


After you upload your ARC File, make sure you go into your Anthem's menu and save User/Installer settings.


----------



## Randall Morton

Thanks guys, I reran room correction and changed auto to flat. Here are the new charts.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/21299688
> 
> 
> Thanks guys, I reran room correction and changed auto to flat. Here are the new charts.



Changing from Auto to Flat didn't require you to rerun ARC. The only thing you needed to do was just calculate and upload. Also, any changes you make in the Targets' View doesn't require you to rerun ARC. Just calculate, save your changes, and upload. Just FYI to save you some time in the future.


Now, since you say the bass was a little lacking, I say let's play around with your room gain. Try upping it to 3.000000, calculate, and upload. ARC normally goes as high as 3.945749 for room gain. You can even try that; however, continue to make sure you are not getting a lot of wiggles in the low end as you change the room gain. You will not have to rerun ARC when making these changes. Just calculate, save file, and upload. You can also post your charts after changing your room gain.


BTW, what did ARC set your speaker trims to?


----------



## lesterjd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan* /forum/post/21298746
> 
> 
> Great, yeah, and just to be clear, I have the Oppo set to output 1080p in all cases. I have the 24p flag set to 'Auto', meaning that the Oppo will figure out when to use 24p output and when not to. In other words, I have the Oppo doing the video upscaling itself, not relying on the D2V for that. The upscaling in the Oppo is very nice, so I feel like I'm not losing anything there at all. Others have seemed to concur. The reason this is important to point out is that it is important that when listening to sources like DVD-Audio discs in the Oppo, if you really want the best full bandwidth audio to come through to the D2V, you need to ensure the Oppo is set to output 1080p. If you have it on Source Direct for instance, I don't believe you will get the full high resolution audio from things like DVD Audio discs. I have a lot of these, so it's important to me.
> 
> 
> Just wanted to complete the picture for ya. Let us know how it works out with that little monitor. It's a life-saver having that second HDMI output on the D2V, never thought it would be so important to me until now
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> -Brian



Just got back from watching Long Kiss Goodnight and Battlestar and changed the D2v setting's so that it was not outputting 24f for the Lilliput monitor and on the Oppo changed to 1080p also tried Auto, but to no avail what I did get is picture on both then change input for movie watching and no picture or it flashes on and off on the screen, change back to music and no picture on the little monitor and if you turn off the monitor the D2v won't lock back onto anything for movie watching. I might try changing the monitor to one that has component and use the Oppo comp feed for the monitor instead.


lesterjd


----------



## Randall Morton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21299729
> 
> 
> Changing from Auto to Flat didn't require you to rerun ARC.
> 
> 
> BTW, what did ARC set your speaker trims to?



I had already started to rerun Arc so I just made the adjustment when it finished.


The speaker levels are:

Front L -1

Center -3.5

Front R -1

Sur R -2

Sur L +3.5

Sub -4.5


What does it do when I increase room gain? Also what would be the difference in just increasing the gain on the sub?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/21299846
> 
> 
> I had already started to rerun Arc so I just made the adjustment when it finished.
> 
> 
> The speaker levels are:
> 
> Front L -1
> 
> Center -3.5
> 
> Front R -1
> 
> Sur R -2
> 
> Sur L +3.5
> 
> Sub -4.5
> 
> 
> What does it do when I increase room gain? Also what would be the difference in just increasing the gain on the sub?



Adding room gain gives a little more punch from about 300 Hz down. Your hump will be a little larger. You shouldn't increase your sub's volume because ARC is already cutting it. Now, it's being cut by -4.5. If you increase your sub's volume, then ARC will cut it even more. If anything, you can turn your sub down a little. The goal is to get the speaker trims as close to 0 as possible. I try to shoot for -3 to +3 for all of my speakers. You are very close. The +3.5 to -3.5 is good. What you have now for your speaker trims is good. So, for now, I say just play around with the room gain and listen to it for a while.


----------



## Randall Morton

Thanks Ninja.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21286202
> 
> 
> the *new beta 2.12q* is now on the tech download page and it works for both the D2v and AVM50v. It is always prudent to heed Bob's warnings about
> 
> BETA software. It should be used only when Anthem Tech suggests you do or you are a risk taker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Good job you posted this and good job I read it, because I was working with Tech Support on the custom resolution stuff and they forgot to tell me it was finally available for the 50v!


So I have tried this new firmware and happy to report that I got it working and Custom Resolution Manager is working! Sometimes I get a blank screen but for the most part it is OK to use.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21303010
> 
> 
> Good job you posted this and good job I read it, because I was working with Tech Support on the custom resolution stuff and they forgot to tell me it was finally available for the 50v!
> 
> 
> So I have tried this new firmware and happy to report that I got it working and Custom Resolution Manager is working! Sometimes I get a blank screen but for the most part it is OK to use.



I wondered about the custom resolution file but since I have no need for it, I didn't mention it. How do you use it?

John


----------



## AVfile

It's a stand alone program that allows you to specify custom display timings (like Powerstrip for the PC) and upload one to the Anthem. Once uploaded you select a Video Output -> Resolution = Custom.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Looks like the intent is to replace the Custom Video Timings feature of the Live Video Settings Editor Windows PC utility app.


There are some post links in the first post of this thread that discuss the nature of the video timings. Last I checked there was also a diagram include in the docs in the ARC install kit that showed them graphically.


MOST folks with modern displays HAVE NO USE for non-standard video timings. This is almost exclusively a feature for folks who still have first or second generation HDMI displays or DVI displays with native pixel resolutions less than 1080p. The last major hassle with this that got discussed here was with some older, 768p Panasonic panels which worked just fine with standard stuff if you sent them 720p, 1080i or 1080p but needed custom timings if you sent them 1366x768p trying to get "native" resolution video into them. There's a post link in the first post specifically on that case.


Before you futz with trying to do full custom timings, you really REALLY need to make sure the standard timings don't work. For example, some 768p panels will accept the standard 1360x768p or 1366x768p but only if you make the change in Setup > Video Output Configuration to invert HDMI Sync.


Before futzing with Custom Video Timings, be sure you become familiar with the "shortcuts" on the remote (under the Mode button) that let you change between Video Output Configurations on the fly, and make sure you leave at least one Video Output Configuration using standard stuff so you can get your video back easily if your new, Custom stuff doesn't do what you are trying to do.


See the very end of Section 4.11 in the Manual. Also remember that even if you lose video, you can still make Setup menu changes using nothing but the Front Panel display.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/21299846
> 
> 
> I had already started to rerun Arc so I just made the adjustment when it finished.
> 
> 
> The speaker levels are:
> 
> Front L -1
> 
> Center -3.5
> 
> Front R -1
> 
> Sur R -2
> 
> Sur L +3.5
> 
> Sub -4.5
> 
> 
> What does it do when I increase room gain? Also what would be the difference in just increasing the gain on the sub?



ARC controls the volume trims. If you change the sub's volume knob and re-run ARC, then ARC will simply change the volume trim for Sub in the opposite direction to counter that.


NOTE: There are "temporary" speaker volume adjustments available via the remote control if you really want to experiment with changing things -- perhaps because the mix is incorrect in something you are playing. These adjustments are remembered on a "per audio input format" basis (affecting ALL Sources), so it is easy to get confused and leave a "temporary" trim active when you don't want it any longer. See the Manual. You can clear ALL the temporary trims all at once by Save User Settings, Reload Factory Defaults, Reload User Settings as the temporary trims don't get saved.


-------------------------------------------------------


"Room Gain" is a "desirable" room response characteristic. ARC tries to Measure the inherent Room Gain in your listening room and preserve that (within limits) even as it busies itself stomping out all the UNdesirable characteristics of your room.


Room Gain shows on the ARC charts as the broad, shallow hump in the ARC Target curves in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies and below. The effect of Room Gain is precisely what you would expect from the shape and height of that hump. The Room Gain value is the height (in dB) of the peak of that hump above the basic volume level of the ARC solution -- i.e., the volume level of the flat part of the Target curves to the right of the crossovers.


Room Gain values in the range of 2-4dB are typical. indeed ARC won't automatically apply a room gain above 4dB (although you can force a large one by manually changing the value in the Targets window and re-Calculating). Lower Room Gain values are typical of large rooms or rooms with "acoustic bass treatments" added to the walls.


Typically you do NOT futz with the Room Gain ARC has picked. Again, ARC is trying to preserve a Measured characteristic of your room so that natural sounds in sound tracks -- things that might actually happen in your room, like closing a door -- sound the same on the sound track as they do in real life. Room Gain is part of the "comfortable feel" of listening in a good listening room as opposed to the unnatural sound of an anechoic chamber (no Room Gain) or listening outdoors.


With experience you might decide to second guess ARC a bit on Room Gain.


1) If you have a peak in your mains near the crossovers, ARC might get confused into thinking the room has extra Room Gain, and so it sets its 4dB limit (actually shows as 3.9xxxx dB due to technical stuff). You might decide to go further and reduce that even a bit more.


2) If there is a dip in your mains near the crossovers, ARC will see a negative Room Gain, which has no useful physical meaning, and so it will set a 0dB or small positive Room Gain. You might decide to raise that a bit more -- to set 2dB for example. NOTE: RAISING Room Gain in such a case means ARC has to call for a bigger "boost" to fill that very dip. You may run into the +6dB boost limit ARC will apply -- i.e., raising Room Gain, rather than helping, may just produce a bigger residual error (failure of the Calculated curve to match the Target curve). In such cases you need to do other stuff to fix the dip such as repositioning the problem speakers or helping ARC pick different "cutoff" frequencies to avoid the problem frequency range.


3) Movie mixers generally assume listening rooms will have a modest amount of Room Gain and mix accordingly. Thus Room Gain in the 2-4dB range is a good match. But there is no such consensus among Music mixers. However the general rule of thumb is that Music mixers expect a little less Room Gain. You can't of course, build a solution that gets inside the head of each Music mixer out there, but my general rule of thumb is to decide what Room Gain I'm going to use for Movie and then reduce the Music Room Gain 1dB lower than that, and that seems to work well. NOTE: I only use my Music solution for listening to stereo music content. I use my Movie solution when playing multi-channel music content such as the 5.1 layer from SACDs.


4) Sometimes the solution Calculation in ARC works better if you change its Targets just a little. Adjusting Room Gain a little bit up or down is one Tweak worth trying to see if you get a cleaner ARC solution -- a better match to the Target curves. It's unlikely you can actually hear a change in the Room Gain setting +/- 0.5dB for example, so this is a useful flexibility when trying to Tweak things to refine the solution.


Note that on the Subwoofer curves the Room Gain hump rolls off at the lowest frequencies UNLESS you have set Flat in ARC's advanced settings for your subwoofer.


Also note that due to the impact of Room Gain -- the shape and height of that hump -- it is NORMAL for the subwoofer to run a few dB louder than the main speakers if you attempt to verify ARC's settings by using test noise and an SPL meter. That's simply because more of the output of the sub is coming from frequencies affected by the Room Gain hump.


---------------------------------------


Randall,

ARC's choice of Room Gain is a little on the low side in your charts (+1.57dB). Your results are typical of quite a large room or an acoustically treated room. I would probably tweak that up to +2.0dB or +2.5dB and see if that gives you a little fuller, tighter sound through the crossover frequencies. As a refinement, you could make the Music Room Gain a little less than what you end up with using for Movie. Perhaps +2.5dB for Movie and +2.0dB for Music. Whenever you Tweak like this, be sure to check how well ARC's Calculated solution matches the newly adjusted Target curves. If a Tweak results in new, residual errors (failure to match the Target curve) then you might want to back it off.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Anthem's ARC (as represented in the MRX 300 AVR) just won a "Best of 2011" award from Secrets of Home Theater*, and an additional special mention in their "Technologies on the Rise" section. See this post I just made in the MRX thread for details and article links:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post21307041 


--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21306890
> 
> 
> ARC controls the volume trims. If you change the sub's volume knob and re-run ARC, then ARC will simply change the volume trim for Sub in the opposite direction to counter that.
> 
> 
> NOTE: There are "temporary" speaker volume adjustments available via the remote control if you really want to experiment with changing things -- perhaps because the mix is incorrect in something you are playing. These adjustments are remembered on a "per audio input format" basis (affecting ALL Sources), so it is easy to get confused and leave a "temporary" trim active when you don't want it any longer. See the Manual. You can clear ALL the temporary trims all at once by Save User Settings, Reload Factory Defaults, Reload User Settings as the temporary trims don't get saved.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> "Room Gain" is a "desirable" room response characteristic. ARC tries to Measure the inherent Room Gain in your listening room and preserve that (within limits) even as it busies itself stomping out all the UNdesirable characteristics of your room.
> 
> 
> Room Gain shows on the ARC charts as the broad, shallow hump in the ARC Target curves in the vicinity of the crossover frequencies and below. The effect of Room Gain is precisely what you would expect from the shape and height of that hump. The Room Gain value is the height (in dB) of the peak of that hump above the basic volume level of the ARC solution -- i.e., the volume level of the flat part of the Target curves to the right of the crossovers.
> 
> 
> Room Gain values in the range of 2-4dB are typical. indeed ARC won't automatically apply a room gain above 4dB (although you can force a large one by manually changing the value in the Targets window and re-Calculating). Lower Room Gain values are typical of large rooms or rooms with "acoustic bass treatments" added to the walls.
> 
> 
> Typically you do NOT futz with the Room Gain ARC has picked. Again, ARC is trying to preserve a Measured characteristic of your room so that natural sounds in sound tracks -- things that might actually happen in your room, like closing a door -- sound the same on the sound track as they do in real life. Room Gain is part of the "comfortable feel" of listening in a good listening room as opposed to the unnatural sound of an anechoic chamber (no Room Gain) or listening outdoors.
> 
> 
> With experience you might decide to second guess ARC a bit on Room Gain.
> 
> 
> 1) If you have a peak in your mains near the crossovers, ARC might get confused into thinking the room has extra Room Gain, and so it sets its 4dB limit (actually shows as 3.9xxxx dB due to technical stuff). You might decide to go further and reduce that even a bit more.
> 
> 
> 2) If there is a dip in your mains near the crossovers, ARC will see a negative Room Gain, which has no useful physical meaning, and so it will set a 0dB or small positive Room Gain. You might decide to raise that a bit more -- to set 2dB for example. NOTE: RAISING Room Gain in such a case means ARC has to call for a bigger "boost" to fill that very dip. You may run into the +6dB boost limit ARC will apply -- i.e., raising Room Gain, rather than helping, may just produce a bigger residual error (failure of the Calculated curve to match the Target curve). In such cases you need to do other stuff to fix the dip such as repositioning the problem speakers or helping ARC pick different "cutoff" frequencies to avoid the problem frequency range.
> 
> 
> 3) Movie mixers generally assume listening rooms will have a modest amount of Room Gain and mix accordingly. Thus Room Gain in the 2-4dB range is a good match. But there is no such consensus among Music mixers. However the general rule of thumb is that Music mixers expect a little less Room Gain. You can't of course, build a solution that gets inside the head of each Music mixer out there, but my general rule of thumb is to decide what Room Gain I'm going to use for Movie and then reduce the Music Room Gain 1dB lower than that, and that seems to work well. NOTE: I only use my Music solution for listening to stereo music content. I use my Movie solution when playing multi-channel music content such as the 5.1 layer from SACDs.
> 
> 
> 4) Sometimes the solution Calculation in ARC works better if you change its Targets just a little. Adjusting Room Gain a little bit up or down is one Tweak worth trying to see if you get a cleaner ARC solution -- a better match to the Target curves. It's unlikely you can actually hear a change in the Room Gain setting +/- 0.5dB for example, so this is a useful flexibility when trying to Tweak things to refine the solution.
> 
> 
> Note that on the Subwoofer curves the Room Gain hump rolls off at the lowest frequencies UNLESS you have set Flat in ARC's advanced settings for your subwoofer.
> 
> 
> Also note that due to the impact of Room Gain -- the shape and height of that hump -- it is NORMAL for the subwoofer to run a few dB louder than the main speakers if you attempt to verify ARC's settings by using test noise and an SPL meter. That's simply because more of the output of the sub is coming from frequencies affected by the Room Gain hump.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Randall,
> 
> ARC's choice of Room Gain is a little on the low side in your charts (+1.57dB). Your results are typical of quite a large room or an acoustically treated room. I would probably tweak that up to +2.0dB or +2.5dB and see if that gives you a little fuller, tighter sound through the crossover frequencies. As a refinement, you could make the Music Room Gain a little less than what you end up with using for Movie. Perhaps +2.5dB for Movie and +2.0dB for Music. Whenever you Tweak like this, be sure to check how well ARC's Calculated solution matches the newly adjusted Target curves. If a Tweak results in new, residual errors (failure to match the Target curve) then you might want to back it off.
> 
> --Bob



A very fine and detailed explanation Bob. It shows that I trained you well.







Wait a minute, you been at this a lot longer than I have. I think that's the other way around, and you are still teaching me and others, and it's truly appreciated.


----------



## ninja12

If a Tweak results in new, residual errors (failure to match the Target curve) then you might want to back it off.

--Bob[/quote]


Hey Bob. I would like to get some clarification on this. My question is what's the threshold?


1) If I only have one speaker that doesn't meet the Target curve, and let's say it's off by 2db, is it worth backing off the room gain for that one speaker?


2) Also, do you factor in the frequency that is not meeting the threshold? For example, if the Target curve is being matched up to 120 Hz without any problem, and you get a little below 120 Hz when you start to see that the Target curve is not being met by a couple of db; but, it's in the area where the sub is kicking in and taking over the load. Is it worth adjusting the room gain down for that? I'm thinking that since the Target curve is being missed by 2db, and it's in the area where the sub is kicking in, then maybe that becomes a wash.


I would appreciate your comments as well as others who would like to chime in.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21307252
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> If a Tweak results in new, residual errors (failure to match the Target curve) then you might want to back it off.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Bob. I would like to get some clarification on this. My question is what's the threshold?
> 
> 
> 1) If I only have one speaker that doesn't meet the Target curve, and let's say it's off by 2db, is it worth backing off the room gain for that one speaker?
> 
> 
> 2) Also, do you factor in the frequency that is not meeting the threshold? For example, if the Target curve is being matched up to 120 Hz without any problem, and you get a little below 120 Hz when you start to see that the Target curve is not being met by a couple of db; but, it's in the area where the sub is kicking in and taking over the load. Is it worth adjusting the room gain down for that? I'm thinking that since the Target curve is being missed by 2db, and it's in the area where the sub is kicking in, then maybe that becomes a wash.
> 
> 
> I would appreciate your comments as well as others who would like to chime in.
Click to expand...


Residual errors that span a wider range of frequencies are more important than little bumps and wiggles.


+/-2dB of the Target is probably less than you can hear, particularly if it doesn't span a wide range.


For Main speakers, pick a cutoff/crossover frequency that leaves good correction for a full octave (factor of 2) under that frequency. That is, if you are *NOT* getting good correction down to 30Hz then you need to raise the cutoff/crossover for that speaker HIGHER than 60Hz! The reason is that the crossover is not a sudden switchover. It takes effect over about an octave. And so you want each main to still be good for an additional octave below its crossover so that its contribution through that range is still good. At one octave lower the crossover response is also -12dB down -- i.e., the crossover has pretty much fully taken effect -- and so errors below that point really won't be heard.


For the Sub, the question is where is the bass coming from? LFE content is basically gone above 120Hz, and crossovers for the mains really ought to be 100Hz or lower unless you've got a real problem with bass output from some main. So if the sub is good up to 120Hz, errors higher than that are likely not going to matter.


I try hard to find a solution that works for all speakers when I'm Tweaking. If that really can't be done, then you have to put your own value judgment on the compromise. For example, errors in the surrounds are less important than errors in the fronts.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21307313
> 
> 
> Residual errors that span a wider range of frequencies are more important than little bumps and wiggles.
> 
> 
> +/-2dB of the Target is probably less than you can hear, particularly if it doesn't span a wide range.
> 
> 
> For Main speakers, pick a cutoff/crossover frequency that leaves good correction for a full octave (factor of 2) under that frequency. That is, if you are *NOT* getting good correction down to 30Hz then you need to raise the cutoff/crossover for that speaker HIGHER than 60Hz! The reason is that the crossover is not a sudden switchover. It takes effect over about an octave. And so you want each main to still be good for an additional octave below its crossover so that its contribution through that range is still good. At one octave lower the crossover response is also -12dB down -- i.e., the crossover has pretty much fully taken effect -- and so errors below that point really won't be heard.
> 
> 
> For the Sub, the question is where is the bass coming from? LFE content is basically gone above 120Hz, and crossovers for the mains really ought to be 100Hz or lower unless you've got a real problem with bass output from some main. So if the sub is good up to 120Hz, errors higher than that are likely not going to matter.
> 
> 
> I try hard to find a solution that works for all speakers when I'm Tweaking. If that really can't be done, then you have to put your own value judgment on the compromise. For example, errors in the surrounds are less important than errors in the fronts.
> 
> --Bob



As always, thanks for the response.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21306877
> 
> 
> ^ Looks like the intent is to replace the Custom Video Timings feature of the Live Video Settings Editor Windows PC utility app.
> 
> 
> There are some post links in the first post of this thread that discuss the nature of the video timings. Last I checked there was also a diagram include in the docs in the ARC install kit that showed them graphically.
> 
> 
> MOST folks with modern displays HAVE NO USE for non-standard video timings. This is almost exclusively a feature for folks who still have first or second generation HDMI displays or DVI displays with native pixel resolutions less than 1080p. The last major hassle with this that got discussed here was with some older, 768p Panasonic panels which worked just fine with standard stuff if you sent them 720p, 1080i or 1080p but needed custom timings if you sent them 1366x768p trying to get "native" resolution video into them. There's a post link in the first post specifically on that case.
> 
> 
> Before you futz with trying to do full custom timings, you really REALLY need to make sure the standard timings don't work. For example, some 768p panels will accept the standard 1360x768p or 1366x768p but only if you make the change in Setup > Video Output Configuration to invert HDMI Sync.
> 
> 
> Before futzing with Custom Video Timings, be sure you become familiar with the "shortcuts" on the remote (under the Mode button) that let you change between Video Output Configurations on the fly, and make sure you leave at least one Video Output Configuration using standard stuff so you can get your video back easily if your new, Custom stuff doesn't do what you are trying to do.
> 
> 
> See the very end of Section 4.11 in the Manual. Also remember that even if you lose video, you can still make Setup menu changes using nothing but the Front Panel display.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21306617
> 
> 
> It's a stand alone program that allows you to specify custom display timings (like Powerstrip for the PC) and upload one to the Anthem. Once uploaded you select a Video Output -> Resolution = Custom.



Thanks for the info.

John


----------



## Randall Morton

Thanks much for the detailed info Bob. You are right on both counts, fairly large room and acoustically treated. I will play around with the gain a bit and see how it sounds with higher gain.


I talked to Mark Seaton today and he suggested that I take all reading on the level where I normally sit. I have a riser and have been taking 3 reading on the upper level and the last 2 readings on the lower level. I normally sit in back and will try doing 5 reading on top to see how it turns out. He also advised that I might try raising the gain a bit.


----------



## Texas steve

Bob is right about most things here - wonder if his wife will agree at home???














































> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/21310154
> 
> 
> Thanks much for the detailed info Bob. You are right on both counts, fairly large room and acoustically treated. I will play around with the gain a bit and see how it sounds with higher gain.
> 
> 
> I talked to Mark Seaton today and he suggested that I take all reading on the level where I normally sit. I have a riser and have been taking 3 reading on the upper level and the last 2 readings on the lower level. I normally sit in back and will try doing 5 reading on top to see how it turns out. He also advised that I might try raising the gain a bit.


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. A quick question. I used to own an SVS AS-EQ1 Sub Equalizer running one Sub and using ARC (D2v) with great results and then after a discussion here I sold the Sub eq and soley used ARC. I'm now running 2 Seaton Submersives and wondered if implementing the SVS unit would improve things? Or should I continue to just use ARC? Where I currently have the 2 subs they can't be moved anywhere else.


I will post my sub chart later tonight as I'm at work atm.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21310854
> 
> 
> Hi guys. A quick question. I used to own an SVS AS-EQ1 Sub Equalizer running one Sub and using ARC (D2v) with great results and then after a discussion here I sold the Sub eq and soley used ARC. I'm now running 2 Seaton Submersives and wondered if implementing the SVS unit would improve things? Or should I continue to just use ARC? Where I currently have the 2 subs they can't be moved anywhere else.
> 
> 
> I will post my sub chart later tonight as I'm at work atm.



What does the chart look like, for the two subs, when you run ARC? If it's not what you are satisfied with, then you should implement the SVS unit. EQ the two subs first with the SVS Unit and then run ARC so ARC can hear the two subs together and make corrections as needed.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21310854
> 
> 
> Hi guys. A quick question. I used to own an SVS AS-EQ1 Sub Equalizer running one Sub and using ARC (D2v) with great results and then after a discussion here I sold the Sub eq and soley used ARC. I'm now running 2 Seaton Submersives and wondered if implementing the SVS unit would improve things? Or should I continue to just use ARC? Where I currently have the 2 subs they can't be moved anywhere else.
> 
> 
> I will post my sub chart later tonight as I'm at work atm.



With 2 subs the SVS would have been of great help as it would phase balance both subs with repsect to the mains, which is extremely critical for users with 2 or more subs. This creates seamless transition between the subs and mains within the crossover regions.


Without it, you'd have to perform this phase alignment manually. Bob P. wrote an excellent write up on this topic a few weeks ago in this forum. Do a quick search to find it or if Bob chimes in here, he can point you to that excellent article.


OK ...found it here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post21200017


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks for your comments guys. Here is my Sub result with targets.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21312199
> 
> 
> Thanks for your comments guys. Here is my Sub result with targets.



My first suggestion to everyone is to listen for a little while to what ARC has given to you. This establishes a baseline for what you are hearing. After listening for a while, you can decide if you want to tweak. If you decide that you want to tweak, then please read on.










Overall, your charts are good. ARC did a good job of fixing the problem with your subs. You have a 10db drop from 40 Hz to 60 Hz. If you want to fix that, you probably will have to experiment with different sub locations to see if you can remove or reduce the valley from 40 Hz to 60 Hz. If you do decide to experiment with different sub locations, you can use Quick Measure to assist you. As you might know, movement of the subs will require you to re-run ARC. Also, I noticed that you don't have any Room Gain. You can also experiment with the Room Gain in the Targets' View. You can start of by setting it to 2.0 and see how that looks to you. As you are changing the Room Gain, keep an eye on the low frequencies to make sure you are not introducing any wiggles as you increase the Room Gain. I have not seen ARC set the Room Gain higher than 3.945749. So, if 2.0 looks good to you and you want to increase it, you can; but, I wouldn't go beyond 3.945749. Also, it looks like your sub is a good candidate for the Flat setting since it's playing very good down to 20 Hz. So, if your sub has built-in protection to protect itself against playing beyond its' capability with the low frequencies, then you can change the setting from Auto to Flat. This is done in the Targets' View by clicking on the Advance button and then changing Auto to Flat. The changes can be done step by step, and you can listen as you make each change. Changing of the Room Gain and from Auto to Flat do not require you to re-run ARC. You just have to Calculate, Save the ARC File, and Upload it. Once you Upload the ARC File, be sure to do a Save User/Installer Settings in your Anthem.


I hope this was helpful.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> My first suggestion to everyone is to listen for a little while to what ARC has given to you. This establishes a baseline for what you are hearing. After listening for a while, you can decide if you want to tweak. If you decide that you want to tweak, then please read on



Thanks for your comments. I probably should have mentioned that I have been on here for awhile posting my charts (Bob helped me allot as did others) plus I had 2 D2v units that were faulty and the 3rd finally was fine. I have indeed experimented with different sub positions since going 2 subs (using quick measure) and where they are now gives me the best results. Someone here suggested that I stack the Submersives as my chart for one Submersive was very good. I have not tried this as I live alone and need another person to assist but will try it one day. I have tried the Flat setting for the subs and to me I just didn't like what I was hearing. I will revisit that setting as well as playing with the room gain as you have suggested and have a listen.


So with the subs as they stand now would implementing the SVS sub EQ unit improve my situation? There's one I can get 2nd hand but not sure if it's worth the money.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21315717
> 
> 
> Thanks for your comments. I probably should have mentioned that I have been on here for awhile posting my charts (Bob helped me allot as did others) plus I had 2 D2v units that were faulty and the 3rd finally was fine. I have indeed experimented with different sub positions since going 2 subs (using quick measure) and where they are now gives me the best results. Someone here suggested that I stack the Submersives as my chart for one Submersive was very good. I have not tried this as I live alone and need another person to assist but will try it one day. I have tried the Flat setting for the subs and to me I just didn't like what I was hearing. I will revisit that setting as well as playing with the room gain as you have suggested and have a listen.
> 
> 
> So with the subs as they stand now would implementing the SVS sub EQ unit improve my situation? There's one I can get 2nd hand but not sure if it's worth the money.



Well, ARC did a good job at fixing your problems; but, honestly, I really can't answer your last question. I would say just listen to what you have and play with the Room Gain and listen to the changes and then decide if you should implement the SVS back into your system. "not sure if it's worth the money" tells me that you really don't think that it's going to be a benefit. I saw let your ears tell you what you should do.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21315717
> 
> 
> So with the subs as they stand now would implementing the SVS sub EQ unit improve my situation? There's one I can get 2nd hand but not sure if it's worth the money.



Why bother? Your ARC-corrected results look fine as is. You are only down a couple dB at 120Hz (compared to the basic volume level of the solution) and the Calculated curve is clean.


With two subs, the main thing you might want to experiment with is the Polarity/Phase setting for each of them. If they don't have their own built-in Phase controls, but the SVS EQ adds that (i.e., separate controls for each sub), then that WOULD be one reason to consider adding the extra EQ into the path. But if the subs have their own built-in Phase controls then use those. It's not obvious to me you can improve over the end result you have now, but that's the one thing I'd play with if you want to experiment.


Again, the trick is to get each sub, individually in the best possible Phase relationship to the main speakers, and with proper Polarity based on its room placement (normal at front of room, inverted at rear). When each sub is in proper Phase with the mains, then they should also be in proper Phase with each other.


Re-Measure for ARC if you change the Phase for either sub.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21315717
> 
> 
> Thanks for your comments. I probably should have mentioned that I have been on here for awhile posting my charts (Bob helped me allot as did others) plus I had 2 D2v units that were faulty and the 3rd finally was fine. I have indeed experimented with different sub positions since going 2 subs (using quick measure) and where they are now gives me the best results. Someone here suggested that I stack the Submersives as my chart for one Submersive was very good. I have not tried this as I live alone and need another person to assist but will try it one day. I have tried the Flat setting for the subs and to me I just didn't like what I was hearing. I will revisit that setting as well as playing with the room gain as you have suggested and have a listen.
> 
> 
> So with the subs as they stand now would implementing the SVS sub EQ unit improve my situation? There's one I can get 2nd hand but not sure if it's worth the money.



You can use the manual phase alignment method i told you about in my earlier post, the one that Bob P wrote so well about.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Why bother? Your ARC-corrected results look fine as is. You are only down a couple dB at 120Hz (compared to the basic volume level of the solution) and the Calculated curve is clean



No worries. I am liking what I'm hearing now (Last ARC cal was in July 2011) with small tweaks like changing my mains from 85hz to 90hz as it smoothed out the curves for both front mains. Just wanted to clairfy the possible addition of the SVS and wether it would be worth adding but I wont.


I tweaked the room gain last night and found that anything over .5 and the left front speaker curve drops below the target curve at 40-50hz approx. So I've set the room gain to .5 (original was "0") and changed the sub seeting to flat. Will post the new charts later tonight. I did upload to the D2v but haven't had a chance to listen to it as yet.


Thanks for the assistance guys.


----------



## SimonNo10

Here are my charts guys after changing room gain and sub setting to Flat from Auto. As mentioned I haven't had a chance to hear the system but will this weekend.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21322381
> 
> 
> No worries. I am liking what I'm hearing now (Last ARC cal was in July 2011) with small tweaks like changing my mains from 85hz to 90hz as it smoothed out the curves for both front mains. Just wanted to clairfy the possible addition of the SVS and wether it would be worth adding but I wont.
> 
> 
> I tweaked the room gain last night and found that anything over .5 and the left front speaker curve drops below the target curve at 40-50hz approx. So I've set the room gain to .5 (original was "0") and changed the sub seeting to flat. Will post the new charts later tonight. I did upload to the D2v but haven't had a chance to listen to it as yet.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the assistance guys.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21322557
> 
> 
> Here are my charts guys after changing room gain and sub setting to Flat from Auto. As mentioned I haven't had a chance to hear the system but will this weekend.



Your charts look good with the exception of no Room Gain. You say that your left front speaker curve drops below the target curve at 40-50hz approx. How far below low the curve is it dropping? It's good to be flat one octave below your cross over which would be 45 Hz in your case; but, if you are only off the Target Curve by a +/- 3db, then I wouldn't worry about it. Actually, at those frequencies 40-50 Hz, your sub is carrying the load and your mains have decreased in volume probably by 12 db. So, I say if you can set your Room Gain to 2.0 and you are within +/- 3db at 40-50 Hz and the rest of your speakers are looking good, then I would go with the 2.0 db to begin with. So, try 2.0 Room Gain and post your charts so that we can take a look.


----------



## mos6581




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21312301
> 
> 
> . Changing of the Room Gain and from Auto to Flat do not require you to re-run ARC. You just have to Calculate, Save the ARC File, and Upload it. Once you Upload the ARC File, be sure to do a Save User/Installer Settings in your Anthem.
> 
> 
> I hope this was helpful.



Do you actually need to save the arc file before uploading it? Isn't calculate and upload enough?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mos6581* /forum/post/21323014
> 
> 
> Do you actually need to save the arc file before uploading it? Isn't calculate and upload enough?



Just a good thing to do so nothing happens to the file b/t measuring and uploading. You wouldn't want to remeasure again would you









John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Actually I'm not sure you EVER have to "save" the ARC file.


Apparently the ARC Windows app writes changes to that file as you make them. If you want to see what I mean, right click on the File, choose Properties, and set it to Read Only.


Now double click on it and use it in ARC.


Every time you make a change -- accept new Targets -- do a new Calculation -- the application will complain that it can't write to that file. The changes actually happen inside the app itself, so this is actually a good way to experiment if you want to make sure you don't modify your file, even accidentally: Just change it to Read Only.


Usually when I make a new set of Measurements, the first thing I do is exit ARC and set that file to Read Only -- even before setting Targets or doing the first Calculation. Then I make copies of that file, as necessary, set them to be writeable again, and play around with them in ARC. When I get a solution I don't want to lose, I change it back to Read Only.

--Bob


----------



## terryshep

hi could someone look at my charts please and tell me if there good i just got my d2v


front left +2.5

center +0.5

front right +2.0

sur right +1.5

sur left -2.5

sub +4


thanks for your help


----------



## Texas steve

It appears you have your freq cutoff not activated on your sub as it sould not take a dive like that.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/21324406
> 
> 
> hi could someone look at my charts please and tell me if there good i just got my d2v
> 
> 
> front left +2.5
> 
> center +0.5
> 
> front right +2.0
> 
> sur right +1.5
> 
> sur left -2.5
> 
> sub +4
> 
> 
> thanks for your help


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/21324406
> 
> 
> hi could someone look at my charts please and tell me if there good i just got my d2v
> 
> 
> front left +2.5
> 
> center +0.5
> 
> front right +2.0
> 
> sur right +1.5
> 
> sur left -2.5
> 
> sub +4
> 
> 
> thanks for your help



Listen to it for a bit and let your ears adjust to what ARC did.


Overall, your charts look good with the exception of your sub. What kind of sub do you have? It's dropping off after 60 Hz which means that you are missing a lot of LFE. Do you have any filters are crossovers set on your sub? If so, you should disable them. You may have to also play around with different sub locations. The next time you run ARC, turn the volume knob, on your sub, up a notch or two. The goal is to be within +/-3 of 0 for all speakers. Maybe, that's my goal.







You have achieved that with the exception of your sub. Also, your test tone level is set too high. Your basic volume, the flat part that's to the right of the hump, is a little over 80db. You want that to come in close to 75db.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Your charts look good with the exception of no Room Gain. You say that your left front speaker curve drops below the target curve at 40-50hz approx. How far below low the curve is it dropping? It's good to be flat one octave below your cross over which would be 45 Hz in your case; but, if you are only off the Target Curve by a +/- 3db, then I wouldn't worry about it. Actually, at those frequencies 40-50 Hz, your sub is carrying the load and your mains have decreased in volume probably by 12 db. So, I say if you can set your Room Gain to 2.0 and you are within +/- 3db at 40-50 Hz and the rest of your speakers are looking good, then I would go with the 2.0 db to begin with. So, try 2.0 Room Gain and post your charts so that we can take a look.



Ok here are the results after changing room gain to 2. Note that left front and sub display the most noticable change plus a small change in the right surround.


Now I have something else that's just gone wrong with my D2v. After uploading the new ARC settings a day ago and turned it on last night to have a listen and noticed the display has some dead lcd pixels. Some characters aren't lighting up so it looks broken when the words for example Dolby Digital has some letters not illuminated and certain numbers with the volume like number 4 (only half of it is lit up). Will a reset resolve this or does it need to be serviced? Just another thing to add to the issues I've had with Anthem. I hope there's a quick fix.


----------



## terryshep




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21324526
> 
> 
> Listen to it for a bit and let your ears adjust to what ARC did.
> 
> 
> Overall, your charts look good with the exception of your sub. What kind of sub do you have? It's dropping off after 60 Hz which means that you are missing a lot of LFE. Do you have any filters are crossovers set on your sub? If so, you should disable them. You may have to also play around with different sub locations. The next time you run ARC, turn the volume knob, on your sub, up a notch or two. The goal is to be within +/-3 of 0 for all speakers. Maybe, that's my goal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have achieved that with the exception of your sub. Also, your test tone level is set too high. Your basic volume, the flat part that's to the right of the hump, is a little over 80db. You want that to come in close to 75db.



hi the sub is the weak part its an bk XLS200

Specifications

System Type: Critically Damped Active System with Variable Freq bass filter and 18 Litre Sealed Enclosure


Frequency Response at -6dB: 17Hz


Amplifier Input / Output Impedance: High Level 100K - Low Level 10K


Gain Control Range: 60dB


Drive Unit Impedance: 4 Ohm


im new to setting things up so any more help would be very nice


speakers are if this helps

b&w 803 Diamond fronts

B&w HTM2 Diamond center

B&w cm9 rear


hope this help you help me










im not blowen away from the sound as this processor cost me £8750

before this i had the marantz av8003


----------



## Texas steve

From your subs web page:

"Due to customer demand the new XLS200-DF MK2 now incorporates a filter bypass switch that allows the bass management of your AV Processor to manage the bass frequencies for home theatre work leaving the the XLS200's built in filtering to deal with the bass management on the High Level Input for Hi-Fi use. "











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/21325217
> 
> 
> hi the sub is the weak part its an bk XLS200
> 
> Specifications
> 
> System Type: Critically Damped Active System with Variable Freq bass filter and 18 Litre Sealed Enclosure
> 
> 
> Frequency Response at -6dB: 17Hz
> 
> 
> Amplifier Input / Output Impedance: High Level 100K - Low Level 10K
> 
> 
> Gain Control Range: 60dB
> 
> 
> Drive Unit Impedance: 4 Ohm
> 
> 
> im new to setting things up so any more help would be very nice
> 
> 
> speakers are if this helps
> 
> b&w 803 Diamond fronts
> 
> B&w HTM2 Diamond center
> 
> B&w cm9 rear
> 
> 
> hope this help you help me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im not blowen away from the sound as this processor cost me £8750
> 
> before this i had the marantz av8003


----------



## terryshep




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21325240
> 
> 
> From your subs web page:
> 
> "Due to customer demand the new XLS200-DF MK2 now incorporates a filter bypass switch that allows the bass management of your AV Processor to manage the bass frequencies for home theatre work leaving the the XLS200's built in filtering to deal with the bass management on the High Level Input for Hi-Fi use. "



hi i have the mk1 not to so does not have that i have phase 0 to 180 where should i set it

and frequency 40hz to 120 hz

filter in and out lfe (set this to out)

gain low level (set half way)

gain high level (set half way)


does this sound right to you im not very good at setting subs up sorry


thank you again for any help


----------



## mos6581




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21323269
> 
> 
> Actually I'm not sure you EVER have to "save" the ARC file.
> 
> 
> Apparently the ARC Windows app writes changes to that file as you make them. If you want to see what I mean, right click on the File, choose Properties, and set it to Read Only.
> 
> 
> Now double click on it and use it in ARC.
> 
> 
> Every time you make a change -- accept new Targets -- do a new Calculation -- the application will complain that it can't write to that file. The changes actually happen inside the app itself, so this is actually a good way to experiment if you want to make sure you don't modify your file, even accidentally: Just change it to Read Only.
> 
> 
> Usually when I make a new set of Measurements, the first thing I do is exit ARC and set that file to Read Only -- even before setting Targets or doing the first Calculation. Then I make copies of that file, as necessary, set them to be writeable again, and play around with them in ARC. When I get a solution I don't want to lose, I change it back to Read Only.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks a lot for the information.

I was a bit afraid i might be missing some parameters being uploaded to my avm50v since I only save after I've done the measurements, and not after making the targets and doing the calcuations. But after reading your post I'll sleep well again


----------



## Texas steve

Just a thought but perhaps they have a simple upgrade kit. Ill let others chime in but here are my comments;

Phase zero is correct

freq 40 but even that is not low enough

I would assume out on filter as well

Gain - dont know Im assuming that low is 40 and high gain is 120?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/21325296
> 
> 
> hi i have the mk1 not to so does not have that i have phase 0 to 180 where should i set it
> 
> and frequency 40hz to 120 hz
> 
> filter in and out lfe (set this to out)
> 
> gain low level (set half way)
> 
> gain high level (set half way)
> 
> 
> does this sound right to you im not very good at setting subs up sorry
> 
> 
> thank you again for any help


----------



## terryshep




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21324526
> 
> 
> Also, your test tone level is set too high. Your basic volume, the flat part that's to the right of the hump, is a little over 80db. You want that to come in close to 75db.



how do i change this arc is doing my head in lol


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21324944
> 
> 
> Ok here are the results after changing room gain to 2. Note that left front and sub display the most noticable change plus a small change in the right surround.
> 
> 
> Now I have something else that's just gone wrong with my D2v. After uploading the new ARC settings a day ago and turned it on last night to have a listen and noticed the display has some dead lcd pixels. Some characters aren't lighting up so it looks broken when the words for example Dolby Digital has some letters not illuminated and certain numbers with the volume like number 4 (only half of it is lit up). Will a reset resolve this or does it need to be serviced? Just another thing to add to the issues I've had with Anthem. I hope there's a quick fix.



Ok....I would not go any higher than 2.0 for the Room Gain. Your sub is about 1 to 2 db off target; but, I wouldn't worry too much about that. You could probably get a better raw measurement if you have the option of playing with different locations for your sub.


Anyway, what you have now should be pretty good. Listen to this for a while and let us know what you think. As for your pixel issue, you can try a firmware reinstall to see if that fixes your problem; but, you should probably contact Anthem first.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/21325296
> 
> 
> hi i have the mk1 not to so does not have that i have phase 0 to 180 where should i set it
> 
> and frequency 40hz to 120 hz
> 
> filter in and out lfe (set this to out)
> 
> gain low level (set half way)
> 
> gain high level (set half way)
> 
> 
> does this sound right to you im not very good at setting subs up sorry
> 
> 
> thank you again for any help



Normally, phase 0 is the standard setting. Here is where Quick Measure (QM) becomes your friend. I suggest that you change 1 setting at a time and use QM to see what your sub looks like. Don't change multiple settings because you will not know which setting may have caused the problem. Look and see what the impact of the setting is using QM. The settings that give you the best looking curve are the ones that you will want to use. Now, if you decide to go with the settings that you changed your sub to, you will have to re-run ARC. If you want to keep your original settings, you will have to upload your ARC file again because QM will reset the settings that were previously uploaded.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/21325480
> 
> 
> how do i change this arc is doing my head in lol



Bring up your menu, drill down until you see Level Calibration, select Level Calibration, change Noise Level. You can reduce by 5. These are the steps for a D2. I don't own a D2V; but, I would think that the names are similar.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> hi the sub is the weak part its an bk XLS200
> 
> Specifications
> 
> System Type: Critically Damped Active System with Variable Freq bass filter and 18 Litre Sealed Enclosure
> 
> 
> Frequency Response at -6dB: 17Hz
> 
> 
> Amplifier Input / Output Impedance: High Level 100K - Low Level 10K
> 
> 
> Gain Control Range: 60dB
> 
> 
> Drive Unit Impedance: 4 Ohm
> 
> 
> im new to setting things up so any more help would be very nice
> 
> 
> speakers are if this helps
> 
> b&w 803 Diamond fronts
> 
> B&w HTM2 Diamond center
> 
> B&w cm9 rear
> 
> 
> hope this help you help me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im not blowen away from the sound as this processor cost me £8750
> 
> before this i had the marantz av8003



I'd wait until you get things set up and a new sub. A cheap sub set to bloat sound might sound better to you than when it is corrected which wouldn't be the D2vs fault. There is no way the Marantz will have better correction than the Anthem or I suspect, the same build quality. It is not uncommon for people to INITIALLY think the sound is off only to give it more time and realize it is actually right on.

John


----------



## terryshep




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21325639
> 
> 
> I'd wait until you get things set up and a new sub. A cheap sub set to bloat sound might sound better to you than when it is corrected which wouldn't be the D2vs fault. There is no way the Marantz will have better correction than the Anthem or I suspect, the same build quality. It is not uncommon for people to INITIALLY think the sound is off only to give it more time and realize it is actually right on.
> 
> John



i no my sub is the weak part of my set up but its the last thing im going to up grade this set up his cost me an arm and a leg so what sub is good im in the uk


thanks for your help


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> i no my sub is the weak part of my set up but its the last thing im going to up grade this set up his cost me an arm and a leg so what sub is good im in the uk
> 
> 
> thanks for your help



Several questions first.

1. Volume of your room?

2. How loud do you play?

3. Your budget


John


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21317620
> 
> 
> Why bother? Your ARC-corrected results look fine as is. You are only down a couple dB at 120Hz (compared to the basic volume level of the solution) and the Calculated curve is clean.
> 
> 
> With two subs, the main thing you might want to experiment with is the Polarity/Phase setting for each of them. If they don't have their own built-in Phase controls, but the SVS EQ adds that (i.e., separate controls for each sub), then that WOULD be one reason to consider adding the extra EQ into the path. But if the subs have their own built-in Phase controls then use those. It's not obvious to me you can improve over the end result you have now, but that's the one thing I'd play with if you want to experiment.
> 
> 
> Again, the trick is to get each sub, individually in the best possible Phase relationship to the main speakers, and with proper Polarity based on its room placement (normal at front of room, inverted at rear). When each sub is in proper Phase with the mains, then they should also be in proper Phase with each other.
> 
> 
> Re-Measure for ARC if you change the Phase for either sub.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob, I'm sorry as I'm sure this question is answered somewhere within this huge tread. I have a D2 running Ver. 1.11e, It has been in storage for the last 4 years (Went through a divorce). I'm finally putting a system back together and was wondering what the latest software is. I was going to call Anthem but it's Saturday. When I go to there site all I can find is D2v software. Is it the same or do I have to take a different route.


Thanks in advance

Joe


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21328399
> 
> 
> Hi Bob, I'm sorry as I'm sure this question is answered somewhere within this huge tread. I have a D2 running Ver. 1.11e, It has been in storage for the last 4 years (Went through a divorce). I'm finally putting a system back together and was wondering what the latest software is. I was going to call Anthem but it's Saturday. When I go to there site all I can find is D2v software. Is it the same or do I have to take a different route.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Joe



No you don't use the D2v firmware.


The trick to finding the D2 firmware on the Anthem web site is to find the text search box at the upper right of their home page and do a search for "discontinued".


That will find one result. Click on that, and then find the entry for the D1/D2 and click on that.


There you will find the download for D2 firmware V1.33 which is the version you should install.


---------------------------------------


If you also have ARC for your D2, the current version of the ARC Windows PC application program is V3.0.2. The ARC app is the same for all processors, so you can download that from the normal download links for the D2v processor.


If you *DON'T* have ARC for your D2, what are you waiting for?










It is WELL worth the small cost. There's no hardware change to make. You just need to buy the kit which includes the ARC mic, mic stand, cables, and Windows PC install disc.


NOTE: If you have a really old version of ARC already on your PC, be aware that the new version installs in a new location. I suggest you use Windows Add/Remove programs to uninstall the old version and then reboot your PC. Now go to the ARC V3.0.2 install kit you just downloaded from Anthem, unzip it if necessary (the result is a folder) and dive into the folder to find the Setup.exe program which is the installer itself. Next insert your original ARC install CD. If it's install program starts automatically, just exit out of it. Browse into that CD to find it's copy of Setup.exe and in that same place you will find two small files with names made up of numbers. These are your ARC license and individualized ARC mic calibration data file. The numbers making up their names will be the combo of the serial number for your D2 and the serial number of your ARC mic.


Copy both of those files from your ARC install CD into the same place where you found Setup.exe in the downloaded version. You can now eject the install CD -- you are done with it.


Now run that Setup.exe program from the downloaded version. It will install ARC V3.0.2 and also copy those two files where they need to be. In the future, you can download new versions and just install on top of the prior version without having to do anything extra. Those two numerically named files will remain in place for use by the new version.

--Bob


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21328528
> 
> 
> No you don't use the D2v firmware.
> 
> 
> The trick to finding the D2 firmware on the Anthem web site is to find the text search box at the upper right of their home page and do a search for "discontinued".
> 
> 
> That will find one result. Click on that, and then find the entry for the D1/D2 and click on that.
> 
> 
> There you will find the download for D2 firmware V1.33 which is the version you should install.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you also have ARC for your D2, the current version of the ARC Windows PC application program is V3.0.2. The ARC app is the same for all processors, so you can download that from the normal download links for the D2v processor.
> 
> 
> If you *DON'T* have ARC for your D2, what are you waiting for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is WELL worth the small cost. There's no hardware change to make. You just need to buy the kit which includes the ARC mic, mic stand, cables, and Windows PC install disc.
> 
> 
> NOTE: If you have a really old version of ARC already on your PC, be aware that the new version installs in a new location. I suggest you use Windows Add/Remove programs to uninstall the old version and then reboot your PC. Now go to the ARC V3.0.2 install kit you just downloaded from Anthem, unzip it if necessary (the result is a folder) and dive into the folder to find the Setup.exe program which is the installer itself. Next insert your original ARC install CD. If it's install program starts automatically, just exit out of it. Browse into that CD to find it's copy of Setup.exe and in that same place you will find two small files with names made up of numbers. These are your ARC license and individualized ARC mic calibration data file. The numbers making up their names will be the combo of the serial number for your D2 and the serial number of your ARC mic.
> 
> 
> Copy both of those files from your ARC install CD into the same place where you found Setup.exe in the downloaded version. You can now eject the install CD -- you are done with it.
> 
> 
> Now run that Setup.exe program from the downloaded version. It will install ARC V3.0.2 and also copy those two files where they need to be. In the future, you can download new versions and just install on top of the prior version without having to do anything extra. Those two numerically named files will remain in place for use by the new version.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you so much. I actually have a complete arc setup that I got from my friend that had bought an AVM 50v. He has a dedicated theater with treatments and will not use any type of equalization LOL. I have the disc with the serial #'s, mic, cables etc. What do I need to do to use it. Do I just load Ver 1.33 and then load the Arc software?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21322693
> 
> 
> Your charts look good with the exception of no Room Gain. You say that your left front speaker curve drops below the target curve at 40-50hz approx. How far below low the curve is it dropping? It's good to be flat one octave below your cross over which would be 45 Hz in your case;



I never could figure this out.

Could you show me how you decide where the speaker crossover is.

In this case you say 45 Hz


Stew


----------



## obie_fl

Santa has decided he is going to upgrade my theater this year and he's run into a few questions and would like to solicit some advice from the knowledgeable Anthem folks in this thread. The D2 is going to remain my processor, note the lack of the v. I just do not see myself upgrading to the D2v especially considering the 3D upgrade isn't ready yet and to be truthful I just don't think the money for the upgrade is well spent at this point. I'm hoping we start hearing about a D2 replacement sometime next year so I'm holding off on a new Pre/Pro for now.


So what is new? I'm entering the 21st century and replacing my CRT of 12 years with a JVC RS45 digital projector. I'm also upgrading my EAP Oppo 83 to the 93. Other sources will be a PS3, Cable DVR, Toshiba HDDVD, and a WD Live+. Although I don't expect 3D to be a big factor in my viewing habits it is here none the less. The Oppo is easy enough to work around as it has two outputs but the rest will be tricky. To complicate things I'm seriously thinking of adding a Lumagen Mini 3D to the mix for its calibration capabilities. Hence some questions for the group.


1. Are people running two cables to their projector when using the Oppo 93 and a Pre/Pro? A switching unit would complicate matters but cuts down on the cabling.

2. Am I correct in assuming that the PS3 and Cable box would not be able to do 3D passed through the D2?

3. How would I integrate the Mini 3D into the system? I believe I would have to put it behind the D2 vice in front of it if I want to do 3D. I would feed it with the Oppo and D2. (Also solves number 1 above)

4. Assuming 2 and 3 are true how would I best set up the D2 to pass through my sources other than the Oppo?

5. Am I going to have handshake issues having both the Mini 3D and D2 in the chain?

6. Along the same lines does the Oppo have to handshake with both the D2 and the projector?


I know lots of question and I have plenty more but I'm interested in what you guys think. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21328557
> 
> 
> Thank you so much. I actually have a complete arc setup that I got from my friend that had bought an AVM 50v. He has a dedicated theater with treatments and will not use any type of equalization LOL. I have the disc with the serial #'s, mic, cables etc. What do I need to do to use it. Do I just load Ver 1.33 and then load the Arc software?



I suggest you download the current manual for the D2v and look for the section that talks about setting up ARC. The instructions in there are applicable to using ARC with the D2.


Yes install firmware V1.33 first.


Now you MAY have a problem with the ARC stuff you got from your friend. That's because D2 units were not originally sold bundled with ARC and thus the ARC license is keyed to the serial number of the unit so that people could not buy one ARC copy and share it among their friends.


I'm not sure the newest ARC software actually enforces that any more.


Go ahead and try it using ARC V3.0.2, and if it works without complaining then fine. But if it complains that it can't find the correct Anthem processor you will have to get the correct license and mic calibration files from Anthem tech support -- which means you may have to pay the $400 fee.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21328579
> 
> 
> I never could figure this out.
> 
> Could you show me how you decide where the speaker crossover is.
> 
> In this case you say 45 Hz
> 
> 
> Stew



For a main speaker, the "crossover" is the same frequency as the "cutoff" frequency shown in ARC's Targets window for that speaker. Suppose that's 90Hz.


Now, to see if your ARC solution is OK, look at the chart for that speaker and see how close the green Calculated curve comes to matching the dashed black line Target curve for the octave below the crossover frequency -- i.e., down to 1/2 that crossover frequency, or down to 45Hz in this example. If you've got good correction for that octave below the crossover then you are good to go for that speaker. I.e., don't worry about any residual errors that might be showing at frequencies even lower than that as the output of the speaker is already attenuated by the action of the crossover and any such errors (below 45Hz in this example) won't be heard.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21328579
> 
> 
> I never could figure this out.
> 
> Could you show me how you decide where the speaker crossover is.
> 
> In this case you say 45 Hz
> 
> 
> Stew



I think Bob gave you a good explanation above. So, just to add on to what Bob mentioned. An octave is just a doubling of a frequency. Let's say you start with 20 Hz. The next octave would be 40 Hz, and the next octave above 40 Hz would be 80 Hz etc.. So, if you have a crossover of 60 Hz, then you would want the ARC correction to be good one octave down below 60 Hz which means that you would want the correction to be good down to 30 Hz for a 60 Hz crossover. Any errors below the 30 Hz would not be worth worrying about because the sound would be attenuated at that point. Actually the sound is attenuated about 12 db 1 octave below the crossover, and it will continue to attenuate below that.


"In this case you say 45 Hz" ==> This is the one octave down frequency since his crossover was 90 Hz. So, the ARC correction should be good down octave, which is 45 Hz, for this ARC Solution; but, 45 Hz is not the actual crossover.


I hope Bob's post and my post were helpful. If not, post more questions, and we will give more answers.


----------



## terryshep




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21325639
> 
> 
> I'd wait until you get things set up and a new sub. A cheap sub set to bloat sound might sound better to you than when it is corrected which wouldn't be the D2vs fault. There is no way the Marantz will have better correction than the Anthem or I suspect, the same build quality. It is not uncommon for people to INITIALLY think the sound is off only to give it more time and realize it is actually right on.
> 
> John



hi just looking at the Paradigm Signature Sub 25 do you think this will sort the sub problem out


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/21328934
> 
> 
> hi just looking at the Paradigm Signature Sub 25 do you think this will sort the sub problem out



The Sub25 is a very good sub, and will have no problems with playing the VLF. If you can find a good location for it that works well in your room, then it will definitely solve your sub problem. Remember, when it comes to speakers, including the sub, it's all about Location Location Location!!!!!!!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The Sub25 is a very good sub, and will have no problems with playing the VLF. If you can find a good location for it that works well in your room, then it will definitely solve your sub problem. Remember, when it comes to speakers, including the sub, it's all about Location Location Location!!!!!!!



As a sub 25 owner, +1

John


----------



## terryshep




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21328994
> 
> 
> The Sub25 is a very good sub, and will have no problems with playing the VLF. If you can find a good location for it that works well in your room, then it will definitely solve your sub problem. Remember, when it comes to speakers, including the sub, it's all about Location Location Location!!!!!!!



ok sub now payed for its comeing next week ill re do arc and upload the charts here and see what we can do







thanks for everyones help


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> ok sub now payed for its comeing next week ill re do arc and upload the charts here and see what we can do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for everyones help



Which sub?

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> ok sub now payed for its comeing next week ill re do arc and upload the charts here and see what we can do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for everyones help



You implied that your old system sounded ok with the old sub? I used to think I needed a new sub until I got this Anthem


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Anyway, what you have now should be pretty good. Listen to this for a while and let us know what you think. As for your pixel issue, you can try a firmware reinstall to see if that fixes your problem; but, you should probably contact Anthem first.



Well I've tried a few movies that I know very well and I must say I love the sound. The room gain certainly changes the sound stage and the bass sounds so powerful and tight. I will leave things as they are now as I'm very happy with what I'm hearing.


Now I have to deal with this issue with the display and I've sent Anthem an e-mail (Friday) so waiting for a reply. Wasn't expecting this problem and not happy that this is the 3rd issue I've had since going to this brand. Previous 2 units had faulty video boards and had to wait almost 2 months to get a working unit and now this. Not happy at all but I love the sound too much to give up on Anthem and move onto something else.


----------



## terryshep




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21329791
> 
> 
> Which sub?
> 
> John



iv gone for the paradigm sub 15 hope this is the right choice


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> iv gone for the paradigm sub 15 hope this is the right choice



I had that one before the sub 25 and it is very capable.

John


----------



## PlatinumSV

Is there a trick to get these 2 to work together. I'm having all sorts of video issues. It seems the only way I can get a somewhat constant picture without all the fluttering is to set all the video outputs to custom. I'm using all 1.4 hdmi's (not like that matters), an Oppo Blu-Ray, Scientific Atlanta cable box (Ugg), Xbox 360 and PS3. I have set all the hdmi control stuff off, but still same thing, only 1360x768 out to my TV set to custom. Occasionally I can get a 1080P/60 image by playing with the output, but once I switch inputs it's gone. Is there a known EDID issue with my set and the D2. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Joe


----------



## AVfile

Joe,

What have you got sync polarity set to?


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21339398
> 
> 
> Joe,
> 
> What have you got sync polarity set to?



Thanks for the reply, I tried both. I gave in and sent it in to Z over at anthem for them to sort out. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21337610
> 
> 
> Is there a trick to get these 2 to work together. I'm having all sorts of video issues. It seems the only way I can get a somewhat constant picture without all the fluttering is to set all the video outputs to custom. I'm using all 1.4 hdmi's (not like that matters), an Oppo Blu-Ray, Scientific Atlanta cable box (Ugg), Xbox 360 and PS3. I have set all the hdmi control stuff off, but still same thing, only 1360x768 out to my TV set to custom. Occasionally I can get a 1080P/60 image by playing with the output, but once I switch inputs it's gone. Is there a known EDID issue with my set and the D2. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Joe



Start with the basics. In the D2, select an unused Source -- one with no video input, perhaps because the device is turned off. Bring up the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold "7" button). Scroll right to the Patterns tab and down to select any of the full screen test patterns.


Is that test pattern video stable on your display? If so then your Video Output Configuration settings are working in the D2.


If you are having problems with the output, try 480p (not 480i) output from the D2. 480p is the "simplest" HDMI output. Again, use the built in test patterns to check. If that works, then try 1080i. If that works then try 1080p.


If 480i and 1080i/60 work but 1080p/60 does not work then the odds are you have an HDMI cabling problem. Check that the plugs are fully inserted straight into the sockets at both ends without being tugged in any direction. Again, check both ends of the cable. Try the "wiggle test". Grab the HDMI cable about an inch from the plug, press the plug straight in towards the socket and give the cable a gentle wiggle. Test both ends of the cable. If that cleans up the signal then you have a problem with mechanical fit of the plug in the socket. Change cables or support the cable end near the plug in some fashion.


Note that we are testing this with /60 output, not /24. Be aware that some older displays accept 1080p/24 but do *NOT* accept 1080p/60 input.


If you can get the video test patterns to display in stable fashion then the output side of things is good and now you can work on the input side of things.


You mention /768p output. If your display needs 768p input for its "native" input then you need to check its manual for details. For example it may insist on 1360x768p instead of 1366x768p or the other way around. It may also insist on RGB input instead of YCbCr at that resolution. The engineers are likely expecting that input to only come from a computer so they've probably made some assumptions that you need to discover.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Bob,

Menory may be fuzzy here but I believe all D-2s came with ARC. That was a major upgrade over the D-1 which could be upgraded with ARC for about $400.

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21347038
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Menory may be fuzzy here but I believe all D-2s came with ARC. That was a major upgrade over the D-1 which could be upgraded with ARC for about $400.
> 
> TJG



No, the D2 was sold for most of its life without ARC. The ARC kit for such owners was a $400 upgrade -- just as with the D1.


ARC first became available, as this upgrade, in the last 6-9 months of the D2's life as I recall.


For the last few months of the D2's life, as Anthem was getting ready to start shipping the D2v, new D2 units WERE sold bundled with ARC.


The D2v was always sold bundled with ARC.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

As of 5/08, all D-2s were shipped with ARC,. Don't know when it started though. It was a harrowing experience initially, one noise on last measurement meant ....START ALL OVER. Be glad for the newer versions.

TJG


----------



## lk100

Just wondering. This D2v/50v upgrade is supposidly coming this January. Correct? Any word on what it entails? A new video board? Or new HDMI board? Cost? Self install? Seems awful close to release with no new details or news from Anthem (It's rumored to be a straight pass-thru for 3D on 4 of the input HDMIs). I'm wondering if this is a phantom upgrade that will never see the light of day as not much if anything seems to be happening with future D2v/50v development.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

************************************************************* **************

***** WARNING! DO NOT INSTALL "TEST" FIRMWARE V2.12T FOR THE D2V OR AVM 50V! *****

************************************************************ ***************



If you've nabbed "test" firmware V2.12t from Anthem's password protected download page, do *NOT* install it on the D2v or AVM 50v until further notice.


There is a potentially serious installer problem being investigated.

*I'm not kidding! Don't chance it!*


If you've downloaded it, please delete your copy from your computer to avoid possible, accidental future use.


If you have *ALREADY* installed V2.12t on your D2v or AVM 50v, and the install worked, then no worries. You've dodged the bullet. *There's no need to revert to an older version.* Just don't RE-install it.


************************************************************* **************

***** WARNING! DO NOT INSTALL "TEST" FIRMWARE V2.12T FOR THE D2V OR AVM 50V! *****

************************************************************ ***************


If after investigation, this turns out to be a "false alarm", I'll come back and edit this post. And of course any version newer than V2.12t will be vetted for this problem before it is put up for download.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

What Bob said, and it's real. Very unusual and under investigation.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Shipped dates, not necessarily showroom dates:


AVM 2 - Sep 2000

AVM 20 - Sep 2001

AVM 20 v2 - Sep 2002

D1 - Apr 2004

D2 - Feb 2006

D2 with ARC - Mar 2008

D2v - Jan 2009

MRX - Oct 2010

D2v 3D - Q1 2012? http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=34996


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100* /forum/post/21347458
> 
> 
> Just wondering. This D2v/50v upgrade is supposidly coming this January. Correct? Any word on what it entails? A new video board? Or new HDMI board? Cost? Self install?



Dealer-installed. The two small circuit boards for HDMI inputs 1-4 and HDMI output 1 get replaced by one bigger one, then software is loaded. "Through" becomes a per-source menu option for video output configuration as long as input 1-4 is assigned, and this mode applies to HDMI output 1 only. It is required for 3D, and for having the output refresh rate automatically follow the source's. No on-screen status display in Through mode since the video processing is bypassed. Cost tba upon official launch. I believe that is all info to be had until then.


----------



## lk100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21348474
> 
> 
> Dealer-installed. The two small circuit boards for HDMI inputs 1-4 and HDMI output 1 get replaced by one bigger one, then software is loaded. "Through" becomes a per-source menu option for video output configuration as long as input 1-4 is assigned, and this mode applies to HDMI output 1 only. It is required for 3D, and for having the output refresh rate automatically follow the source's. No on-screen status display in Through mode since the video processing is bypassed. Cost tba upon official launch. I believe that is all info to be had until then.



Thanks Nick,

Once configured, will the 3D "through" be automatic from a source that outputs both 2d and 3d (and 2d will automatically go through normal processing)? Or would the source need to have 2 HDMI outs, one for 2d, one for 3d?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Nick,
> 
> Once configured, will the 3D "through" be automatic from a source that outputs both 2d and 3d (and 2d will automatically go through normal processing)? Or would the source need to have 2 HDMI outs, one for 2d, one for 3d?



Same for both 2D and 3D. Through means no processing so for bluray 1080p/24, it will do nothing which in most cases would be fine.

John


----------



## lk100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21348873
> 
> 
> Same for both 2D and 3D. Through means no processing so for bluray 1080p/24, it will do nothing which in most cases would be fine.
> 
> John



Sounds good. There might be an issue with the PS3 for gaming and streaming say Netflix, which may require some processing, but I guess that could be handled by using different display modes on the display. Except for cable, and some dvds, depending on the disc player, it looks like the D2v video board will not be used or even needed with this upgrade.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

You can still do everything in the examples linked below. Nothing changes there. Just add source setups in Through mode where needed, as long as the sources and display to be used as such are connected to the top row of HDMI jacks.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=33971 


So for most people what this would mean is replacing the 1080p24 output configuration with Through. For those who watch a mix of 50 Hz and 60 Hz material from one source component, the same might apply.


----------



## stanger89

Nick, I didn't see this posted (or asked anywhere, forgive me if I missed it), is the MSRP/street price of the D2V 3D/AVM50V 3D going to be greater than that of the current V? Like maybe by the cost of the upgrade?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/21349407
> 
> 
> Nick, I didn't see this posted (or asked anywhere, forgive me if I missed it), is the MSRP/street price of the D2V 3D/AVM50V 3D going to be greater than that of the current V? Like maybe by the cost of the upgrade?



Sorry, no idea. The brass would determine that and before dealer memos get sent out, anything goes.


----------



## stanger89

Well, I'll soon (hopefully) be joining the 50V club. Stopped by my dealer today, talked to them a bit, and put down a deposit on a new 50V. Hopefully mid to late next week I'll have a new 50V in my HT :jump:


Thanks for all the help and answers to all the questions, Nick, Bob and everyone else.


----------



## matty1137

I'm trying to decide between the 50v and D2v. On the Anthem website it states that the D2v upsamples all incoming digital signals. Does that include Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio bitstreams as well?


----------



## TJG55

Looking for any BR players which will decode Dolby Tru HD/DTS MA internally and output correct PCM for hi rez sound. Some will send 7.1 analogue but want to find one to transfer over HDMI. (Any info on specific models....Denon BDP 1611 and 2012 and Marantz BD 7004? Info is scarce and manuals are unclear.)

thanx,

TJG


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21356225
> 
> 
> Looking for any BR players which will decode Dolby Tru HD/DTS MA internally and output correct PCM for hi rez sound. Some will send 7.1 analogue but want to find one to transfer over HDMI. (Any info on specific models....Denon BDP 1611 and 2012 and Marantz BD 7004? Info is scarce and manuals are unclear.)
> 
> thanx,
> 
> TJG



Why do you have to BUY an opulently priced player.


There are so many other alternative. The KING-of-the-Road

is Oppo, PS3 and Panasonic.


----------



## TJG55

As a dealer there are many different situations I have to deal with. These are some current examples.

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matty1137* /forum/post/21356128
> 
> 
> I'm trying to decide between the 50v and D2v. On the Anthem website it states that the D2v upsamples all incoming digital signals. Does that include Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio bitstreams as well?



Yes.


Most movie tracks are mastered for home theater as 48KHz LPCM. When that master is packed up as TrueHD or DTS-HD MA Bitstreams that sampling rate characteristic is preserved. When you play one of these Bitstreams, it has to be decoded as the first step, and what comes out of the decoder is a matching set of 48KHz LPCM streams -- one per speaker channel -- bit for bit identical to what went into the encoder in the studio. (Which is what is meant when people say that TrueHD and DTS-HD MA are "lossless".)


The D2v up-samples such 48KHz audio input to 192KHz prior to any other processing (e.g., ARC). That 192KHz 24-bit audio is what eventually goes to the DACs for conversion to Analog for output to your amps.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21356225
> 
> 
> Looking for any BR players which will decode Dolby Tru HD/DTS MA internally and output correct PCM for hi rez sound. Some will send 7.1 analogue but want to find one to transfer over HDMI. (Any info on specific models....Denon BDP 1611 and 2012 and Marantz BD 7004? Info is scarce and manuals are unclear.)
> 
> thanx,
> 
> TJG



As you can imagine, most discussions are focussed on a single model rather than model comparisons.


The other problem is that when people DO try to do a comparison, they are often honed in on just one aspect. Blu-ray players are complicated beasties asked to do all sorts of things, so if you only look at one thing at a time you end up with a LOT of discussions to wade through.


As a starting point, you might want to try the "help me pick a Blu-ray player" sticky thread at the top of the Blu-ray Players forum here. Be forewarned that a lot of the discussion in there is pretty shallow, and limited to cheaper models.


Another place to look is the Secrets of Home Theater web site. They are in the process of upgrading their benchmark testing to better reflect the peculiar things Blu-ray players get right or wrong. Recently, for example, they discovered a popular Sony model was putting out incorrect HDMI video data. Not incorrect by a lot, but by enough to screw things up if you happened to use that player as your "reference source" for calibrating a TV. (The Oppo player was their example of a player that "gets it right".)


As a dealer, you probably can't resell the Oppo 93 or the PS3 profitably. But you might very well be able to offer the Oppo 95, and it should stand up well against major brand players costing 2-3 times as much -- particularly when you factor in Oppo's exceptional Customer Service. There are some new (Nov. & Dec.) reviews just out on both the 93 and the 95 where the reviewers continue to be astounded at how Oppo does it for the price. FAIR WARNING: I'm an Oppo Beta tester, and thus biased.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Thanks, Bob

I'm just trying to find BR units for older D-2 clients (over HDMI) and specifics on the three listed models.

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21356796
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob
> 
> I'm just trying to find BR units for older D-2 clients (over HDMI) and specifics on the three listed models.
> 
> TJG



It's probably easiest just to ask in the appropriate owner's thread for each model in the Blu-ray Players forum here. If your main concern is whether/how they handle decoding of audio and LPCM transmission over HDMI that should be pretty easy to ferret out.


Keep in mind that the D2 is limited to 5.1 input over HDMI so you might also want to ask how each player does when down-mixing 7.1 tracks to 5.1 HDMI LPCM output.

--Bob


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21356682
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> 
> Most movie tracks are mastered for home theater as 48KHz LPCM. When that master is packed up as TrueHD or DTS-HD MA Bitstreams that sampling rate characteristic is preserved. When you play one of these Bitstreams, it has to be decoded as the first step, and what comes out of the decoder is a matching set of 48KHz LPCM streams -- one per speaker channel -- bit for bit identical to what went into the encoder in the studio. (Which is what is meant when people say that TrueHD and DTS-HD MA are "lossless".)
> 
> 
> The D2v up-samples such 48KHz audio input to 192KHz prior to any other processing (e.g., ARC). That 192KHz 24-bit audio is what eventually goes to the DACs for conversion to Analog for output to your amps.
> 
> --Bob



I received an answer from Anthem that AVM 50V does upsampling to 192KHz/24 bit for digital and 96KHz/24bit for analogue. But components are different which causes the difference in results. Somehow I still have my doubts about this but I specifically asked them if it does any upsampling of a digital signal before relaying it to DAC. The answer was "yes", to 192Khz/24bit. Can anybody from Anthem on this forum confirm that for me?


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/21354961
> 
> 
> Well, I'll soon (hopefully) be joining the 50V club. Stopped by my dealer today, talked to them a bit, and put down a deposit on a new 50V. Hopefully mid to late next week I'll have a new 50V in my HT :jump:
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the help and answers to all the questions, Nick, Bob and everyone else.



I got my AVM 50V last Saturday. Still struggling with URC MX-850 + MRF-350 to switch it on reliably to a chosen input. Sometimes instead of TV it switches to 2-ch and instead of CD to AUX. When it is powered on everything is OK. I am trying to develop a solution of how to fix it by varying the sequence in which I power on my equipment and setting different delays between operation. No luck so far. Sometimes it takes more than 30 seconds for processor to actually power up, switch to an input and start showing the picture and if I change input during this "startup" sequence it is not always reliable to actually switch to an input I need. In one case it was not physically switching between inputs but was showing correct names on display. So the unit is a little bit unstable but hopefully later firmware updates will fix it or I will find a good procedure for powering it up. Once powered up it works pretty stable.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21357185
> 
> 
> I got my AVM 50V last Saturday. Still struggling with URC MX-850 + MRF-350 to switch it on reliably to a chosen input. Sometimes instead of TV it switches to 2-ch and instead of CD to AUX. When it is powered on everything is OK. I am trying to develop a solution of how to fix it by varying the sequence in which I power on my equipment and setting different delays between operation. No luck so far. Sometimes it takes more than 30 seconds for processor to actually power up, switch to an input and start showing the picture and if I change input during this "startup" sequence it is not always reliable to actually switch to an input I need. In one case it was not physically switching between inputs but was showing correct names on display. So the unit is a little bit unstable but hopefully later firmware updates will fix it or I will find a good procedure for powering it up. Once powered up it works pretty stable.



I think you will need to delay selecting an input. The Anthem will the last one used at start up. So delay selection until the unit stabilizes

Also your MX 850 remote is RF and your receiver can be connected two ways. With flashers glued to the front or wired direct thru the Anthem rear connectors. If you are wired direct to the Anthem am not sure if the MRF-350 front flasher continues to work in sequence when using the wired flashers so you should probably turn off the Anthem front IR sensors.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21357753
> 
> 
> I think you will need to delay selecting an input. The Anthem will the last one used at start up. So delay selection until the unit stabilizes
> 
> Also your MX 850 remote is RF and your receiver can be connected two ways. With flashers glued to the front or wired direct thru the Anthem rear connectors. If you are wired direct to the Anthem am not sure if the MRF-350 front flasher continues to work in sequence when using the wired flashers so you should probably turn off the Anthem front IR sensors.



I connected MRF-350 to a back ir input of AVM 50V and disabled IR both on MRF-350 and in MX-850. I tried to set different delays (up to 10 seconds) before switching the input but it does not help much. The problem with Anthem is that it is impossible to predict when it is ready, it could be 30-40 seconds in some instances. I will try to add a longer pause at the end of sequence (right before switching MX-850 to another page) and if it does not help I will activate all flashers instead of individual per component. If those two steps don't help then I will be doing some random changes in sequence/delays to find the most stable condition. I wish Anthem could be powered on by issuing a "source" command instead of "on" -> "switch to ...". It works if I press "source" button on the unit itself but not with remote.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21358048
> 
> 
> I connected MRF-350 to a back ir input of AVM 50V and disabled IR both on MRF-350 and in MX-850. I tried to set different delays (up to 10 seconds) before switching the input but it does not help much. The problem with Anthem is that it is impossible to predict when it is ready, it could be 30-40 seconds in some instances. I will try to add a longer pause at the end of sequence (right before switching MX-850 to another page) and if it does not help I will activate all flashers instead of individual per component. If those two steps don't help then I will be doing some random changes in sequence/delays to find the most stable condition. I wish Anthem could be powered on by issuing a "source" command instead of "on" -> "switch to ...". It works if I press "source" button on the unit itself but not with remote.



I have the D2 and mx-900. Not the same, but similar. I am also using the mrf-350.


I have programed my ucr to : *power on D2>0.2 sec delay>D2 input*. Almost an immediate command from power on to input selection.

If you wait any longer you then have to wait for the Anthem to completely finish powering up before you can choose the input, and as you said, it can take a while.

If you do an immediate *power on>source* with no more than the shortest time delay between, it will act as if you pushed the souce button on the front panel.

Works for me, hope it works for you.


Tom


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21358794
> 
> 
> I have the D2 and mx-900. Not the same, but similar. I am also using the mrf-350.
> 
> 
> I have programed my ucr to : *power on D2>0.2 sec delay>D2 input*. Almost an immediate command from power on to input selection.
> 
> If you wait any longer you then have to wait for the Anthem to completely finish powering up before you can choose the input, and as you said, it can take a while.
> 
> If you do an immediate *power on>source* with no more than the shortest time delay between, it will act as if you pushed the souce button on the front panel.
> 
> Works for me, hope it works for you.
> 
> 
> Tom



Thank you Tom. Somehow after several rearrangements it started to work fine. I am not sure what exactly helped but I will leave everything like it is right now.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21358794
> 
> 
> I have the D2 and mx-900. Not the same, but similar. I am also using the mrf-350.
> 
> 
> I have programed my ucr to : *power on D2>0.2 sec delay>D2 input*. Almost an immediate command from power on to input selection.
> 
> If you wait any longer you then have to wait for the Anthem to completely finish powering up before you can choose the input, and as you said, it can take a while.
> 
> If you do an immediate *power on>source* with no more than the shortest time delay between, it will act as if you pushed the souce button on the front panel.
> 
> Works for me, hope it works for you.
> 
> 
> Tom



Here Here, great point Tom. I have the MX-950 and MRF-350 and my 0.2 second delays are just the ticket with the D2 and now D2V.


-Brian


----------



## TJG55

Have run ARC for store, clients and personally MANY times with few issues. Now using a newer computer Lenovo Win 7 64 bit, it will only infrequently find the mic. This is a new problem for us. Have searched the forum. Has anyone found a solution? This could become a serious time consuming item. Would appreciate any assistance. Have disabled firewalls, checked setting on Keyspan, running on AC, rebooted...... to no avail.

TJG


----------



## AVfile

If you're in the business of running ARC a lot, suggest getting an old Dell Lattitude D-series or M-series laptop with real hardware serial port. I know this is not a true fix for your problem but think of it as a dedicated Anthem service machine.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21361249
> 
> 
> Have run ARC for store, clients and personally MANY times with few issues. Now using a newer computer Lenovo Win 7 64 bit, it will only infrequently find the mic. This is a new problem for us. Have searched the forum. Has anyone found a solution? This could become a serious time consuming item. Would appreciate any assistance. Have disabled firewalls, checked setting on Keyspan, running on AC, rebooted...... to no avail.
> 
> TJG



I have win7 as well and haven't had any issues but you've covered most of the things we've done if problems do crop up. I can't think of anything but Bob may have some other tricks even as a MAC user. Try turning off wifi. This has caused problems with my MRX so who knows.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Quote:

Originally Posted by *TJG55* 
Have run ARC for store, clients and personally MANY times with few issues. Now using a newer computer Lenovo Win 7 64 bit, it will only infrequently find the mic. This is a new problem for us. Have searched the forum. Has anyone found a solution? This could become a serious time consuming item. Would appreciate any assistance. Have disabled firewalls, checked setting on Keyspan, running on AC, rebooted...... to no avail.

TJG
Try this procedure from Anthem to make sure any built-in mic, or mic setup in Win 7 isn't getting in the way.


If this doesn't do it, you may have a faulty USB cable or faulty ARC mic.

--Bob

 

Win 7 ARC Setup.pdf 485.87890625k . file


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21361308
> 
> 
> If you're in the business of running ARC a lot, suggest getting an old Dell Lattitude D-series or M-series laptop with real hardware serial port. I know this is not a true fix for your problem but think of it as a dedicated Anthem service machine.



Could not agree more - has been my solution for 6 years now


----------



## TJG55

B,

Will try your solution. Have tried multiple mics and cables...not the problem. Have contacted Pierro. Will see what happensand keep you posted.

TJG


----------



## TJG55

Newsflash....

Bob, tried your tip. Everything was already set properly. ARC program which was from website does not see mic. BUT, ARC will run correctly from included disc. However, when program is downloaded to computer....it will NOT run (not see mic). ??????

Ideas????

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21361629
> 
> 
> Newsflash....
> 
> Bob, tried your tip. Everything was already set properly. ARC program which was from website does not see mic. BUT, ARC will run correctly from included disc. However, when program is downloaded to computer....it will NOT run(see mic). ??????
> 
> Ideas????
> 
> TJG



Check Windows > Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction to see if the mic calibration data file got properly installed. It should be sitting in that same folder along with the installed copy of the ARC application itself.


The mic calibration data file has a name made of numbers -- the serial number of the Anthem and the serial number of the ARC mic. There's a 2nd such file as well which is the ARC license.


If the file(s) are not there, just copy them in there from the ARC install CD.


--------------------------------------------------


If still no luck, do this:


1) Reboot the PC

2) In Windows Add/Remove Programs, remove the currently installed version of ARC. If more than one version shows, Remove them all.

3) Reboot the PC

4) Download a fresh copy of the ARC V3.0.2 install kit from the Anthem site and unzip it.

5) Dive into the resulting folder and find the Setup.exe program -- the installer itself.

6) Insert the original ARC install CD in the drive. If its installer starts up automatically, just Quit out of it.

7) Dive into the files on the CD and find the Setup.exe program on it.

8) From that location on the CD, copy the two numerically named files from the CD to the location of Setup.exe in the downloaded version.

9) Eject the CD, you are done with it.

10) Run Setup.exe from the downloaded copy. It will install ARC V3.0.2 and copy the 2 files where they need to be.

11) Reboot the PC one last time.


ETA: This second procedure will be necessary if ARC on the original install CD is old enough.


--Bob


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21204174
> 
> 
> Yes. You will also need a "straight through" serial cable. Plug the USB from the adapter into your computer and run the serial cable from the adapter to the back of the Anthem.
> 
> 
> You can leave the serial cable permanently attached to the back of the Anthem, coiled up out of the way when not in use.
> 
> 
> Be careful not to get the identical looking "null modem" serial cable which swaps one pair of the 9 wires in the cable. Check the cable package to be sure it says that pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9.
> 
> 
> Wait until you get your ARC kit from the Anthem dealer, as the correct serial cable may already be included in the ARC kit. (Anthem now bundles a serial cable with new units, but I don't think they did that with the ARC Upgrade kits.)
> 
> --Bob



Forgive me again if I missed it, but do you know, does the ARC kit come with the USB/Serial adapter? I'm trying to make sure I've got everything I need in place when my 50V comes in. Ordered some short HDMI cables already, and from the 50V manual it seems to come with the serial cable, but doesn't mention a USB adapter.


Thanks again, can't wait for it to come in


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/21361743
> 
> 
> Forgive me again if I missed it, but do you know, does the ARC kit come with the USB/Serial adapter? I'm trying to make sure I've got everything I need in place when my 50V comes in. Ordered some short HDMI cables already, and from the 50V manual it seems to come with the serial cable, but doesn't mention a USB adapter.
> 
> 
> Thanks again, can't wait for it to come in



My understanding is that all new units now ship from the factory with both the Keyspan serial adapter and the necessary, "straight through" serial cable.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/21361743
> 
> 
> Forgive me again if I missed it, but do you know, does the ARC kit come with the USB/Serial adapter?



As of the beginning of 2011 adapters are included with new AVM 50v and D2v units. (They can also be ordered from tech support for a low price.)


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21361629
> 
> 
> Newsflash....
> 
> Bob, tried your tip. Everything was already set properly. ARC program which was from website does not see mic. BUT, ARC will run correctly from included disc. However, when program is downloaded to computer....it will NOT run (not see mic). ??????
> 
> Ideas????
> 
> TJG



If it wasn't the weekend I would have had a better answer but I *think* Andrew once mentioned a related driver update from the MS site for Windows 7. I might be mixing this up with something else but if nothing else works by Monday, try calling tech support and ask for him.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21357151
> 
> 
> I received an answer from Anthem that AVM 50V does upsampling to 192KHz/24 bit for digital and 96KHz/24bit for analogue. But components are different which causes the difference in results. Somehow I still have my doubts about this but I specifically asked them if it does any upsampling of a digital signal before relaying it to DAC. The answer was "yes", to 192Khz/24bit. Can anybody from Anthem on this forum confirm that for me?



Something's been misinterpeted. AVM DACs run at 24/192 only when the source is 24/192. There is no upsampling in any AVM model. In contrast, D2v DACs only run at 192 kHz due to the sample rate converter that precedes them, and the reconstruction filter that follows the Statement DAC was designed in-house and optimized for this rate.


For analog-DSP inputs in all models except the AVM 2 the analog-to-digital conversion rate is selected in the setup menu - 16/44.1, 16/48, 24/88.2, or 24/96. Rates higher than 96 kHz are not supported because the only apparent difference is a slight increase in noise.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21361777
> 
> 
> My understanding is that all new units now ship from the factory with both the Keyspan serial adapter and the necessary, "straight through" serial cable.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21361826
> 
> 
> As of the beginning of 2011 adapters are included with new AVM 50v and D2v units. (They can also be ordered from tech support for a low price.)



Thanks both again, I thought I'd read that, but my feeble Saturday afternoon search attempt didn't find it.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21361877
> 
> 
> Something's been misinterpeted. AVM DACs run at 24/192 only when the source is 24/192. There is no upsampling in any AVM model. In contrast, D2v DACs only run at 192 kHz due to the sample rate converter that precedes them, and the reconstruction filter that follows the Statement DAC was designed in-house and optimized for this rate.
> 
> 
> For analog-DSP inputs in all models except the AVM 2 the analog-to-digital conversion rate is selected in the setup menu - 16/44.1, 16/48, 24/88.2, or 24/96. Rates higher than 96 kHz are not supported because the only apparent difference is a slight increase in noise.



Thank you Nick, I really thought that it worked this way. As I am feeding the music from my computer I can upsample everything there if it makes any difference.


----------



## programmergeek

Any word on the Anthum 3D for the D2V, I have had a 3d set up now for a long timd but have been waiting on Anthum, what is taking them so long other companies have had stuff out for over a year.


I bought this because it could be upgraded but it it takes so long it is not really worth it.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any word on the Anthum 3D for the D2V, I have had a 3d set up now for a long timd but have been waiting on Anthum, what is taking them so long other companies have had stuff out for over a year.
> 
> 
> I bought this because it could be upgraded but it it takes so long it is not really worth it.



End of Jan. 2012. If all you wanted was 3D you should gave gotten an MRX but then you already know the D2v is an amazing pre/pro









John


----------



## snweiler

My theater consists of an Oppo 93 feeding my D2v feeding my JVC HD550 projector. I'm using source direct on the Oppo and have set up my D2v video output 1 to 1080p24 for Blurays and output 2 to 1080p60 for watching DVDs. My D2v bluray input uses 1 and my DVD input uses 2. The picture we get is great when watching blurays (or anything that is put out from the D2v at 1080p24 for that matter) but I have a lot of video noise in dark scenes whenever I run the D2v at 1080p60. Is/has anyone else seen this problem? I've tried playing around with all of the settings without success. The only things that works is to switch back to 1080p24 which of course can be a problem when watching DVDs.


Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.


Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snweiler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My theater consists of an Oppo 93 feeding my D2v feeding my JVC HD550 projector. I'm using source direct on the Oppo and have set up my D2v video output 1 to 1080p24 for Blurays and output 2 to 1080p60 for watching DVDs. My D2v bluray input uses 1 and my DVD input uses 2. The picture we get is great when watching blurays (or anything that is put out from the D2v at 1080p24 for that matter) but I have a lot of video noise in dark scenes whenever I run the D2v at 1080p60. Is/has anyone else seen this problem? I've tried playing around with all of the settings without success. The only things that works is to switch back to 1080p24 which of course can be a problem when watching DVDs.
> 
> 
> Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Steve



Describe the noise. If it is a random scattering of brighter pixels ( the "sparklies") then you need to upgrade your HDMI cables to Category 2 or "high speed" cables designed for 1080p signals.


1080p/60 is more than twice the bandwidth of 1080p/24, and thus puts more demands on the cabling.


Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol so the problem could be either (or both) the input or output cables.

--Bob


----------



## [email protected]!

Hi, i have 2 day's mine new D2v and it is awsome










I have a 7.1 set-up but when the source is DTS HD-MA 7.1 i see on screen 5.1 + PLIIx is this correct?


When starting I see DTS HD-MA then for a few sec's 7.1 and then 5.1 + PLIIx


In the menu is the 7.1 set to "none"


Thankz, Martin.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/21363072
> 
> 
> Any word on the Anthum 3D for the D2V, I have had a 3d set up now for a long timd but have been waiting on Anthum, what is taking them so long other companies have had stuff out for over a year.
> 
> 
> I bought this because it could be upgraded but it it takes so long it is not really worth it.



I am thinking of getting a 3D capable receiver that you can buy for 249.00 with 4 HDMI inputs while I wait, switching the bloody cables between the PS3 for 3D and the Direct TV for 3D and then to the Anthem for 2D is becoming annoying and if they can't meet the supposed date of end of January, who knows.


----------



## rovingtravler

Martin,


Do you have 7.1 selected in the set up menu?

Do you have 7.1 slected in the source set up menu for output?

Change the default output mode from PLx to DTS or THX, or DD ex etc.

This should help lock onto a 7.1 signal.


Also if the input signal is only 5.1 then you have to matrix (i.e. PLx or DTS matrix) to use the other 2 rear speakers.


So the input will still read 5.1 because that is the input on the display not the output.


Hope that Helps. Bob or John can recommend a more detailed help "file" for you.


Cheers,


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21361877
> 
> 
> Something's been misinterpeted. AVM DACs run at 24/192 only when the source is 24/192. There is no upsampling in any AVM model. In contrast, D2v DACs only run at 192 kHz due to the sample rate converter that precedes them, and the reconstruction filter that follows the Statement DAC was designed in-house and optimized for this rate.
> 
> 
> For analog-DSP inputs in all models except the AVM 2 the analog-to-digital conversion rate is selected in the setup menu - 16/44.1, 16/48, 24/88.2, or 24/96. Rates higher than 96 kHz are not supported because the only apparent difference is a slight increase in noise.



So if I have 16/44.1 digital input (PCM) fed to AVM 50V, does it do all the DSP and ARC corrections on 16/44.1 data (mathematically) or does it upsample it to something else (24/96, 24/44.1, ...) for DSP/ARC processing? So d2V upsamples 16/44.1 to 24/192 and does all the DSP/ARC correction algorithms on upsampled data and feeds 24/192 to DAC. But AVM 50V does all the digital manipulation on 16/44.1 (thus less precision and possible precision or rounding loss) and feeds 16/44.1 to DAC? Am I right?


----------



## boblam

Why doesn't the AVM-50v have an ethernet connection? It looks like it still only has a RS-232 connection. How do people connect these days to the AVM-50v with PCs without RS-232 connections?


Any thoughts for internet streaming, connecting media players and other digital assets? Looks like the MRX series has features like this.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/21363072
> 
> 
> Any word on the Anthum 3D for the D2V, I have had a 3d set up now for a long timd but have been waiting on Anthum, what is taking them so long other companies have had stuff out for over a year.
> 
> 
> I bought this because it could be upgraded but it it takes so long it is not really worth it.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21363124
> 
> 
> End of Jan. 2012. If all you wanted was 3D you should gave gotten an MRX but then you already know the D2v is an amazing pre/pro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boblam* /forum/post/21364797
> 
> 
> Why doesn't the AVM-50v have an ethernet connection? It looks like it still only has a RS-232 connection. How do people connect these days to the AVM-50v with PCs without RS-232 connections?
> 
> 
> Any thoughts for internet streaming, connecting media players and other digital assets? Looks like the MRX series has features like this.



Does anyone other then me find this a bit disconcerting? I've always found it a bit strange that the more "modest" receivers have a pretty big feature advantage over the "flagship" Pre/Pro. I've given serious thought to selling my D2 and replacing it with a real Video Processor and an MRX used as a Pre. The D2v is an amazing Pre/Pro mantra only goes so far if you can't easily integrate it in with the rest of your system. Give me USB, Ethernet, 3D, HD Radio, access to the guts of the VP so I can do CMS on it then I'll be amazed.


Sorry for the rant but it struck a raw nerve and I do realize you were being facetious John.


Here's an idea why not build an AVM-40 type Pre/Pro based on the MRX 700 platform? But then again I guess the AVM40 wasn't that popular as it never did get the "v" upgrade did it?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boblam* /forum/post/21364797
> 
> 
> Why doesn't the AVM-50v have an ethernet connection? It looks like it still only has a RS-232 connection. How do people connect these days to the AVM-50v with PCs without RS-232 connections?
> 
> 
> Any thoughts for internet streaming, connecting media players and other digital assets? Looks like the MRX series has features like this.



For firmware updates, and ARC setup, you connect using the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter included with the AVM 50, and a PC with a USB port.


For playback from digital assets, you will need a player that connects to the AVM 50v via normal A/V cabling.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/21364852
> 
> 
> Does anyone other then me find this a bit disconcerting? I've always found it a bit strange that the more "modest" receivers have a pretty big feature advantage over the "flagship" Pre/Pro. I've given serious thought to selling my D2 and replacing it with a real Video Processor and an MRX used as a Pre. The D2v is an amazing Pre/Pro mantra only goes so far if you can't easily integrate it in with the rest of your system. Give me USB, Ethernet, 3D, HD Radio, access to the guts of the VP so I can do CMS on it then I'll be amazed.
> 
> 
> Sorry for the rant but it struck a raw nerve and I do realize you were being facetious John.
> 
> 
> Here's an idea why not build an AVM-40 type Pre/Pro based on the MRX 700 platform? But then again I guess the AVM40 wasn't that popular as it never did get the "v" upgrade did it?



It is par for the course that receivers get more gewgaws than pre-pros simply because they come and go so much more frequently (both the receivers and the gewgaws). The value of having an integrated audio/video solution still argues against a separate video processor.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21364777
> 
> 
> So if I have 16/44.1 digital input (PCM) fed to AVM 50V, does it do all the DSP and ARC corrections on 16/44.1 data (mathematically) or does it upsample it to something else (24/96, 24/44.1, ...) for DSP/ARC processing? So d2V upsamples 16/44.1 to 24/192 and does all the DSP/ARC correction algorithms on upsampled data and feeds 24/192 to DAC. But AVM 50V does all the digital manipulation on 16/44.1 (thus less precision and possible precision or rounding loss) and feeds 16/44.1 to DAC? Am I right?



Essentially right. The internal data path inside the processing chips is likely larger than 16 bit but the input and output are, as you say 16/44.1.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/21364598
> 
> 
> I am thinking of getting a 3D capable receiver that you can buy for 249.00 with 4 HDMI inputs while I wait, switching the bloody cables between the PS3 for 3D and the Direct TV for 3D and then to the Anthem for 2D is becoming annoying and if they can't meet the supposed date of end of January, who knows.



Sounds like a good plan. I certainly wouldn't want to pay more for 3D convenience.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]!* /forum/post/21364031
> 
> 
> Hi, i have 2 day's mine new D2v and it is awsome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 7.1 set-up but when the source is DTS HD-MA 7.1 i see on screen 5.1 + PLIIx is this correct?
> 
> 
> When starting I see DTS HD-MA then for a few sec's 7.1 and then 5.1 + PLIIx
> 
> 
> In the menu is the 7.1 set to "none"
> 
> 
> Thankz, Martin.



This is most likely a settings problem in your Source device -- i.e., your Blu-ray player.


First, look for a setting in the player that disables "secondary audio mixing".


If you are using a PS3, make sure that the 7.1 output choices are enabled in its audio output setup.


Try using HDMI LPCM output from the player instead of HDMI Bitstream. (Keep in mind that you can only get 7.1 audio over HDMI.)


In your player Manual, look for a chart of audio output signals that will detail what you get for audio according to what you have selected from the disc and the settings you have made in the player.


Also keep in mind that on many discs, the 7.1 track is not the default audio track. You need to select the 7.1 track from the disc's own menus.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/21364852
> 
> 
> Does anyone other then me find this a bit disconcerting? I've always found it a bit strange that the more "modest" receivers have a pretty big feature advantage over the "flagship" Pre/Pro. I've given serious thought to selling my D2 and replacing it with a real Video Processor and an MRX used as a Pre. The D2v is an amazing Pre/Pro mantra only goes so far if you can't easily integrate it in with the rest of your system. Give me USB, Ethernet, 3D, HD Radio, access to the guts of the VP so I can do CMS on it then I'll be amazed.
> 
> 
> Sorry for the rant but it struck a raw nerve and I do realize you were being facetious John.
> 
> 
> Here's an idea why not build an AVM-40 type Pre/Pro based on the MRX 700 platform? But then again I guess the AVM40 wasn't that popular as it never did get the "v" upgrade did it?



I have a MRX 500 with all the "gewgaws" and as Bob said they come and go and are there at the expense of great components and ultimate sound. For me they are extraneous and often a nuisance. I'll take the phenomenal sound of my D2v over anything but then that's just me









John


----------



## snweiler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21363908
> 
> 
> Describe the noise. If it is a random scattering of brighter pixels ( the "sparklies") then you need to upgrade your HDMI cables to Category 2 or "high speed" cables designed for 1080p signals.



Bob this is exactly how I would describe the noise. I'll try switching out the cables.


Thanks.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/21364852
> 
> 
> Does anyone other then me find this a bit disconcerting?



I don't find it disconcerting at all, a bit unfortunate perhaps, but not disconcerting.



> Quote:
> I've always found it a bit strange that the more "modest" receivers have a pretty big feature advantage over the "flagship" Pre/Pro.



The answer is pretty simple, lets compare two products, say a $400 Denon AVR and the D2V, a $8000 SSP. Denon is likely to sell millions of AVRs, so they can spend tens or hundreds of millions each year in R&D and production updates. I'd imagine Denon has hundreds of engineers on their payroll developing the next series of AVRs.


In contrast, Anthem sells probably in the thousands, maybe tens of thousands (for reference, none of the 4 stores in my state I stopped at actually had a 50V in stock), even if they make ten times the margin on each unit, that still only gives Anthem maybe 1/10th the R&D budget of someone like Denon.


On top of that, AVRs like Denon's are often based on "off the shelf" SOCs and share design similarities with their brethren. Basically with an AVR like a Denon, they've got the entire might of the CE industry behind updating them each year due to similarities in parts choices between them.


Now you've got Anthem who builds their AVRs from scratch with lots of custom software inside, on much more powerful chips that requiring much more time/development in integration and testing that custom software.


To be clear, I just made all those numbers up (other than the prices) to illustrate the point, I have no idea what the real numbers are.



> Quote:
> I've given serious thought to selling my D2 and replacing it with a real Video Processor and an MRX used as a Pre.



I tried to talk myself into an MRX, but just couldn't bring myself to do it. That said I do sorta wish there were a 40V without the video processor built in (I'd get a Lumagen in that case).



> Quote:
> The D2v is an amazing Pre/Pro mantra only goes so far if you can't easily integrate it in with the rest of your system. Give me USB, Ethernet, 3D, HD Radio, access to the guts of the VP so I can do CMS on it then I'll be amazed.



What good are USB, Ethernet? OK, ethernet would be nice for IP control and firmware updates, but really, what good is it. My Samsung TV has USB on it, I never use it because it's internal "player" sucked and was out of date to begin with. Ethernet? Same thing, built in ethernet streaming sucks in general, and is out of date before the box leaves the manufacturer.


Leave Ethernet and USB (playback) to the people who do it well, like Logitech (Squeezebox), Sonos, Popcorn Hour, Oppo, Dune, etc who have much better media players than anything Anthem could hope to come up with burried in an SSP.


And I'm kind of lost on your integration comment. My AVM20 integrates seamlessly in my system via the URC MX880/MRF350 I use to control everything. I expect my AVM50V will be even better due to it's HDMI switching and OSD.



> Quote:
> Here's an idea why not build an AVM-40 type Pre/Pro based on the MRX 700 platform? But then again I guess the AVM40 wasn't that popular as it never did get the "v" upgrade did it?



Because it wouldn't be an AVM then, it would be an MRX without amplifiers. Don't forget (based on my reading) the AVM has twice the DSP power of the MRX line, along with all the other benefits.


I'm with jayray, I prefer products that do their primary purpose exceptionally rather than products that do a little bit of everything acceptably (if you're lucky, and often you're not).


Besides, if my luck with Anthem products holds out, there will probably be an AVM60/D3 out before long, considering I got my 20 not too long before the 30 came out


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

I don't know of many things that can be everything to everybody. I first realized this with the remote - some people want hard keys because they're easy to find without looking, while others want touchscreens for customization. Some want the remote to have latest technology while others want the cheapest ugliest thing possible because a universal remote or control system will be used instead.


It's the same with the features in the main box. Some people want inboard AirPlay for ease of use, others want an outboard AppleTV for more features. Some can't handle the AppleTV's on-screen keyboard so they go for a D-Link Boxee. The Logitech Revue goes a step further with a mouse pad but, not to hijack the thread, is lacking in other ways. Yet others want an audiophile-quality media player and there are choices there as well, but they may not get updates for new formats as often. Some use a dedicated laptop as a server connected via an asynchronous USB to S/PDIF converter.


And no matter what, no AVR will be able to contain all that without even bringing price into the discussion (and at AVM/D volumes, the royalties and buy-ins for all the decoding technologies would make just about anyone jump through the roof). There's not even an outboard box that satisfies everyone. The MRX receivers have some of it but they don't have eight HDMI inputs like the AVM/D do. So, AVM/D owners, you are the free birds who can choose any media player ranging in price from $50 to into the thousands that matches your needs as closely as possible, and sacrifice an HDMI input, maybe two, or a coax input to accommodate.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21364777
> 
> 
> So if I have 16/44.1 digital input (PCM) fed to AVM 50V, does it do all the DSP and ARC corrections on 16/44.1 data (mathematically) or does it upsample it to something else (24/96, 24/44.1, ...) for DSP/ARC processing? So d2V upsamples 16/44.1 to 24/192 and does all the DSP/ARC correction algorithms on upsampled data and feeds 24/192 to DAC. But AVM 50V does all the digital manipulation on 16/44.1 (thus less precision and possible precision or rounding loss) and feeds 16/44.1 to DAC? Am I right?



That's more than one topic in there - DSP and DAC.


In the Statement models the upsampling is the final stage before the DACs and the signal is already processed at that point. Regardless of model our mandate from the start has been no audible rounding errors in the DSP. To achieve this some processes go as far as 56-bit, regardless of the input format. This includes bass management in the ARC-less AVM 20.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/21364598
> 
> 
> ...supposed date of end of January...



for clarity:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=34996


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nick @ anthem* /forum/post/21366352
> 
> 
> i don't know of many things that can be everything to everybody. I first realized this with the remote - some people want hard keys because they're easy to find without looking, while others want touchscreens for customization. Some want the remote to have latest technology while others want the cheapest ugliest thing possible because a universal remote or control system will be used instead.
> 
> 
> It's the same with the features in the main box. Some people want inboard airplay for ease of use, others want an outboard appletv for more features. Some can't handle the appletv's on-screen keyboard so they go for a d-link boxee. The logitech revue goes a step further with a mouse pad but, not to hijack the thread, is lacking in other ways. Yet others want an audiophile-quality media player and there are choices there as well, but they may not get updates for new formats as often. Some use a dedicated laptop as a server connected via an asynchronous usb to s/pdif converter.
> 
> 
> And no matter what, no avr will be able to contain all that without even bringing price into the discussion (and at avm/d volumes, the royalties and buy-ins for all the decoding technologies would make just about anyone jump through the roof). There's not even an outboard box that satisfies everyone. The mrx receivers have some of it but they don't have eight hdmi inputs like the avm/d do. So, avm/d owners, you are the free birds who can choose any media player ranging in price from $50 to into the thousands that matches your needs as closely as possible, and sacrifice an hdmi input, maybe two, or a coax input to accommodate.



+1


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21366372
> 
> 
> That's more than one topic in there - DSP and DAC.
> 
> 
> In the Statement models the upsampling is the final stage before the DACs and the signal is already processed at that point. Regardless of model our mandate from the start has been no audible rounding errors in the DSP. To achieve this some processes go as far as 56-bit, regardless of the input format. This includes bass management in the ARC-less AVM 20.



I got it, thank you Nick.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Glad to be of help. I should have also mentioned that the upsampling in Statement models is more about the sample rate conversion than anything else. This allows smoother filtering at the end of the chain, and as a side effect reclocking which can reduce jitter. Bit errors, or rounding errors, on the other hand don't have much to do with sample rate - they're all about the number of bits, which determines the noise level.


----------



## obie_fl

I don't need every bell and whistle in a Pre/Pro but for $7K I expect to be pretty amazed. Maybe because I always had a dedicated video processor before the D2 I expect more in that area. You can argue that VPs are less relevant now days but there is still a need for things such as a CMS and a good VP can still do some amazing things. I just always felt the VPs in the Anthems could have been exploited a little better.


Like it not 3D is here and if you are trying to integrate it into an Anthem system right now it is not going to be easy. I don't plan on using 3D much but I'm really scratching my head trying to figure out a clean way to connect my 3D capable sources. Hopefully that will be remedied soon for the "v" folks with the upgrade. If I understand things it is just going to bypass the VP which brings me back to why even have the fancy VP if its not used. That is why I brought up the AVM-40 earlier.


I see the point in keeping streaming off the Pre/Pro but at this level I would think you would have a basic implementation. I wouldn't expect to see this until a new platform. The real reason I brought up ethernet and USB was for ARC and firmware updates. RS232 needs to hang around for legacy reasons but its days are numbered. This thread would probably be 100 pages shorter if there wasn't so many how do I get ARC to work with my USB adapter questions. Thankfully Anthem includes the Keyspan now but I still see a fair share of people having issues. Personally I keep a Dell laptop with RS232 around as others here have recently mentioned.


Not trying to be a downer but I guess my frustration is starting to show as I try to integrate a new projector and sources into my D2 centerpiece.


----------



## [email protected]!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21364939
> 
> 
> This is most likely a settings problem in your Source device -- i.e., your Blu-ray player.
> 
> 
> You need to select the 7.1 track from the disc's own menus.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks,


I think the problem is the blu-ray disc ( Hell Boy - Golden Army) with the Blu ray disc Transformers DOTM give me no problems I see on the display Treu HD 7.1. With Hell Boy I see for a few seconds DTS HD-MA 7.1 and then he jumps to 5.1 + PLIIx ( On Display Anthem).


With my previous amp ( Onkyo PR-SC5508) No problems with Hell Boy.


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]!* /forum/post/21367894
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> I think the problem is the blu-ray disc ( Hell Boy - Golden Army) with the Blu ray disc Transformers DOTM give me no problems I see on the display Treu HD 7.1. With Hell Boy I see for a few seconds DTS HD-MA 7.1 and then he jumps to 5.1 + PLIIx ( On Display Anthem).
> 
> 
> With my previous amp ( Onkyo PR-SC5508) No problems with Hell Boy.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



DTS for a while was pushing yet another idiotic complexity in the DTS-HD MA spec called "alternate speaker presentations". The idea was that the studio would specify the angle around the room of all the speakers in their mix, and then the user would also specify the angle around the room of all the speakers in their room, and the AVR would modify what audio went to which speaker by mathematically adjusting things to correct for the angle differences.


That oddball scheme never got completely implemented (no implementation in AVRs), but DESPITE that some studios -- New Line comes to mind -- took advantage of the scheme to put out "fake" DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks that were actually 5.1 tracks but with TWO pair of Side Surround speakers!


I.e., there are 4 surround channels, but all 4 of them are to the sides and none to the rear. This is a nifty marketing ploy because you can take your 5.1 movie theater master and market it as 7.1 on home disc without actually doing any work.


Decoding that as 5.1 actually better represents where the audio is supposed to come from. But some AVR and player makers, feeling the heat from customers who thought they had bought 7.1 tracks, changed the decode to put the extra pair of side channels into the rear speakers. The PS3 was one example of a device that originally decoded these as 5.1 but then switched to 7.1 despite the fact that the extra side channels aren't really associated with rear speaker positions.


Decoding as 5.1 and letting PLIIx algorithmically steer some of that to the Rear speakers is no worse, and might even be better.


My recollection is that the Hellboy disc you are talking about is an example of this.

--Bob


----------



## [email protected]!

Hello Bob, thanks for the info.


I'll shall check with my both players the Sony S5000es en Oppo-95.


Greetz from Holland







(Netherlands)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]!* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello Bob, thanks for the info.
> 
> 
> I'll shall check with my both players the Sony S5000es en Oppo-95.
> 
> 
> Greetz from Holland
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Netherlands)



The OPPO decodes these "alternate speaker presentation" 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks as 7.1 (last time I checked). "Hairspray" is another disc that does this.


I believe the type of DTS decoder licensed for players has no option but to do that since in DTS' scheme, players are not supposed to know about the possible extra processing -- that is, players don't get told about your speaker angles.


It doesn't make any sense, but DTS is kind of known for that.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21373317
> 
> 
> The OPPO decodes these "alternate speaker presentation" 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks as 7.1 (last time I checked). "Hairspray" is another disc that does this.
> 
> 
> I believe the type of DTS decoder licensed for players has no option but to do that since in DTS' scheme, players are not supposed to know about the possible extra processing -- that is, players don't get told about your speaker angles.
> 
> 
> It doesn't make any sense, but DTS is kind of known for that.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I can confirm that my Oppo 93 displays DTS-HD 7.1 for "HellBoy II", though my D2v shows only DTS-HD 5.1 being received. "Hairspray" is enroute, but I suppose it will be similar.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/21374383
> 
> 
> Yes, I can confirm that my Oppo 93 displays DTS-HD 7.1 for "HellBoy II", though my D2v shows only DTS-HD 5.1 being received. "Hairspray" is enroute, but I suppose it will be similar.
> 
> 
> Ben



OK, now try this with your 7.1 speaker setup.


First go into Setup > Mode Presets for your Source for playing movies from the Oppo 93.


Set the preset for DTS 5.1 input to PLIIx-Movie. Set the preset for 7.1 input to None. Note that THX is OFF for both.


Next set the 93 to HDMI Bitstream output with Secondary Audio OFF and start that track playing. Once the track is playing use the "temporary" volume trim buttons on the remote to correct for the DTS-HD MA level bug in the current D2v firmware. That is, press Fronts and raise that to +3dB, then press Center and lower that to -3dB. (Leave the other "temporary" trims at 0dB.) These settings will take effect any time you play a DTS-HD MA Bitstream input from any Source. DTS-HD MA Bitstream input must be playing before you make these adjustments. The adjustments are remembered until you manually change them or Reset Factory Defaults. (They are NOT saved in User or Installer Settings.)


Next switch the 93 to HDMI LPCM output -- you can do that on the fly while the track is still playing. Check with those temporary level trim buttons on the remote that the trims for LPCM input are all at 0dB.


Now do an A/B comparison of the track, changing the Oppo between HDMI LPCM output and HDMI Bitstream output. The LPCM output will be the 7.1 decode in the player, with the extra pair of Side channels sent to the Rear speakers. The D2v should say PCM input with all 7.1 input channels active for input and for speaker output.


The Bitstream output will be decoded as 5.1 in the D2v and then PLIIx-Movie will extract some of that audio to send to the Rear speakers. The D2v should say DTS-HD MA input with PLIIx-Movie -- 5.1 input channels active, and 7.1 speaker output active.


Which do you like better? Note that the question is NOT which one sends more volume to the Rear speakers. It is which mix, over all, sounds better to you? (It's OK if the answer is that they sound equally good!)

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21375149
> 
> 
> OK, now try this with your 7.1 speaker setup...........................
> 
> --Bob



Will try out your suggestions, Bob.


Cracked my head against a concrete wall last night while chasing a thief in my dream. Now nursing a lovely golf ball size bump on my forehead and feeling rather groggy. Hoping nothing serious within the grey matter.


Will get back when I'm more myself.


Mucho thanks.

Ben


----------



## Stevetd

Ambien's a hell of drug.


----------



## tngiloy

Ben,

Hope the wall's OK.


Tom


----------



## tngiloy

Since so many of the problems posted on this thread seem to involve hdmi switching problems I thought some of you might be interested in a new product from Tranformative Engineering (model HDS-12) that Outlaw Audio is testing.

I received an email saying that they were looking for users to be beta testers (sounds like a program similar to Oppo's eap testing) that were having hdmi switching problems.

Here is a link to the beta tester application form for anyone interested. http://www.outlawaudio.com/heta.html 


It sounds like its close to a general release, but if it works and you can get your hands on it early, all the better.


Tom


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/21374383
> 
> 
> Yes, I can confirm that my Oppo 93 displays DTS-HD 7.1 for "HellBoy II", though my D2v shows only DTS-HD 5.1 being received.



Same here on my system. Can't say I've noticed this with any other titles in my collection.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ There's actually a prior discussion, a long time back in this thread, about the short list of titles known to do this. The one I use for testing this is "Hairspray" which is interesting in that the New Line logo that comes up when you load the disc gets decoded as 7.1 but the feature itself gets decoded as 5.1 -- again due to this insane "alternate speaker presentation" DTS-HD MA stuff being used to put 4 side channels into the mix.

--Bob


----------



## fuzzybk

Hi guys. Haven't been in the forum for a while. I noticed that some people are running firmware version 2.11. When I went to Anthem's website, the official version for the AVM50v is 2.10. What gives? I've been running 2.10 with no problems but want to be up to date.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Anthem is shipping V2.11 in new units from the factory, but the changes are small enough that I don't think they felt it was worth pushing everyone to jump from V2.10 to V2.11. Typically this sort of thing happens when there is a running change in the production hardware such that new units need a small firmware mod, but old units do not.


Presumably there will be a much more significant firmware release next year as they ready the 3D pass-through upgrade for release. That firmware is already in Beta testing.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Beta firmware version 2.12w is now on the tech download page.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The installer problem found in V2.12t has been resolved.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

John, can we apply this if we are not testing the 3d?











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21381736
> 
> 
> Beta firmware version 2.12w is now on the tech download page.
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> John, can we apply this if we are not testing the 3d?



Yup, it's for both D2v and AVM50v.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ PLEASE keep in mind this "test" firmware is not done yet.

--Bob


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21381736
> 
> 
> Beta firmware version 2.12w is now on the tech download page.
> 
> John



What can we look forward to with the upgraded software?


Regards


----------



## Texas steve

absloutley, and on all test firmware (that I used), I have sent back input accordingly.
*HAVE A GREAT CHRISTMAS ALL!!*

























> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21382605
> 
> 
> ^ PLEASE keep in mind this "test" firmware is not done yet.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/21383425
> 
> 
> What can we look forward to with the upgraded software?
> 
> 
> Regards



From a feature change point of view, the important item is support for the upcoming 3D pass-through upgrade.


The rest is "unspecified" bug fixes. Collect them all! (Many of course are simply fixes to NEW bugs introduced as part of the 3D change. See my comment above about "not finished yet". Lots of stuff got touched in this new firmware, so new bugs can crop up just about anywhere even though things might not LOOK changed.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just got word that an even newer "test" version is in the pipe for possible release later today. So you might want to hold off installing V2.12w.


(Sounds like someone told the engineers that the best way to get on Santa's good side is to fix bugs fast!)


For folks not tolerant of surprises, it's generally wise to not try to be the first to load a "test" firmware version. Give it a few days to see if cries of dismay start getting posted. This is particularly true if you HAVE to have a working system for say, Christmas movie viewing.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Just loaded W and no HDMI in/out works (internal FM works). Going back to 2.011











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21384445
> 
> 
> Just got word that an even newer "test" version is in the pipe for possible release later today. So you might want to hold off installing V2.12w.
> 
> 
> (Sounds like someone told the engineers that the best way to get on Santa's good side is to fix bugs fast!)
> 
> 
> For folks not tolerant of surprises, it's generally wise to not try to be the first to load a "test" firmware version. Give it a few days to see if cries of dismay start getting posted. This is particularly true if you HAVE to have a working system for say, Christmas movie viewing.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21384850
> 
> 
> Just loaded W and no HDMI in/out works (internal FM works). Going back to 2.011



Are you using an AVM 50v with both HDMI outputs connected? I understand there may be a problem if the 2nd TV is not powered.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Using D2v all worked well with 2.011, checked user settings all good, even tried changing a input from 2 to 3 (HDMI) and changed source setting accordingly, no result.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21384865
> 
> 
> Are you using an AVM 50v with both HDMI outputs connected? I understand there may be a problem if the 2nd TV is not powered.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## JimP

I've been following this thread for quite a long time and haven't heard about something on the D2V that was posted on another thread.


On the other thread, someone posted that the D2V has a resynching problem when you're either skipping forward or replaying back using a DVR via digital.


I've not heard this about the D2V and am just asking as I think the poster was trying to justify a point he was trying to make.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I've not had that problem, nor do I recall complaints here about that except for set top boxes which are known to have faulty HDMI implementations such as some of the ones foisted on customers in Canada. And for those boxes, the issue is syncing at all -- not re-sync.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Went back to 2.11 all is well, I think W has a issue on D2V with HDMI, Ill adivse Nick



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21384877
> 
> 
> Using D2v all worked well with 2.011, checked user settings all good, even tried changing a input from 2 to 3 (HDMI) and changed source setting accordingly, no result.


----------



## Texas steve

I have no such problem, nor have I read it here.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/21385051
> 
> 
> I've been following this thread for quite a long time and haven't heard about something on the D2V that was posted on another thread.
> 
> 
> On the other thread, someone posted that the D2V has a resynching problem when you're either skipping forward or replaying back using a DVR via digital.
> 
> 
> I've not heard this about the D2V and am just asking as I think the poster was trying to justify a point he was trying to make.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been following this thread for quite a long time and haven't heard about something on the D2V that was posted on another thread.
> 
> 
> On the other thread, someone posted that the D2V has a resynching problem when you're either skipping forward or replaying back using a DVR via digital.
> 
> 
> I've not heard this about the D2V and am just asking as I think the poster was trying to justify a point he was trying to make.



I'm in Canada and I had no problem with my SA 8300 PVR.

John


----------



## jayray

Beta firmware 2.12x is now on the tech download page. All known reproducible issues have been fixed. This version has worked as expected on all D2v and AVM 50v test units. 2.12w is included in the folder in case you need to revert while Anthem is shut down for Christmas. Always heed Bob's warnings about Beta firmware.

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> What can we look forward to with the upgraded software?
> 
> 
> Regards



It supports the new Custom Resolution Manager (included with the download).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*going to party like it's 19,999*

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21387206
> 
> 
> Beta firmware 2.12x is now on the tech download page. All known reproducible issues have been fixed.



Got it running. Does "all known" include the DTS-HD issue?


I still get flaky behavior switching to/from my custom resolution. Sometimes a psychedelic distorted display and sometimes no display at all.


----------



## Texas steve

Well, as mentioned "W" HDMI did not work on my D2V so I went back to 2.11, Ill check X. Can anyone report any issue with "W" HDMI?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21387206
> 
> 
> Beta firmware 2.12x is now on the tech download page. All known reproducible issues have been fixed. This version has worked as expected on all D2v and AVM 50v test units. 2.12w is included in the folder in case you need to revert while Anthem is shut down for Christmas. Always heed Bob's warnings about Beta firmware.
> 
> John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21387663
> 
> 
> *going to party like it's 19,999*
> 
> --Bob



Congrats on your 20K Posts. Enjoy your party!!!!!!!!


----------



## Texas steve

Yeeee Haaa!! (hey Im from Texas what did you expect)











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21388822
> 
> 
> Congrats on your 20K Posts. Enjoy your party!!!!!!!!


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21387695
> 
> 
> I still get flaky behavior switching to/from my custom resolution. Sometimes a psychedelic distorted display and sometimes no display at all.



Is anything in the video output config menu set to Auto? If yes, try various forced settings.


I'm also curious, now that comparison is possible what pic quality differences do you see between 1080i60 vs 900p60 output by the prepro?


(On a 768p display I've seen no difference with the most difficult patterns, let alone normal video, between feeding it native from a D2 vs letting it scale down 1080p that's coming from the D2. But then that's all-progressive unlike your setup.)


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21389597
> 
> 
> Is anything in the video output config menu set to Auto? If yes, try various forced settings.
> 
> 
> I'm also curious, now that comparison is possible what pic quality differences do you see between 1080i60 vs 900p60 output by the prepro?
> 
> 
> (On a 768p display I've seen no difference with the most difficult patterns, let alone normal video, between feeding it native from a D2 vs letting it scale down 1080p that's coming from the D2. But then that's all-progressive unlike your setup.)



Hi Nick, Is Anthem open today? I've been trying to get ahold of somebody all day to get some info on my D2 that's in for service and nobody is getting back to me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem is closed until Tuesday.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

2.12x installed and played without incidence. Switching inputs had no issues. So far so good.

John


----------



## Texas steve

John did you ever try W?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21390756
> 
> 
> 2.12x installed and played without incidence. Switching inputs had no issues. So far so good.
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> John did you ever try W?



Steve,

No I didn't, I took Nick's advice to wait for X.

John


----------



## Texas steve

Just proves your smarter than me. Have a great Xmas!! Must be cold in Canada!!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21391106
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> No I didn't, I took Nick's advice to wait for X.
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just proves your smarter than me. Have a great Xmas!! Must be cold in Canada!!



Same to you and your family. About freezing but sunny and no snow yet.

John


----------



## stanger89

So I got my new 50V a couple days ago










Been going pretty well, got most of my sources set up, ARC run and nothing seems wrong with it's results, though I'm going to have to play with it's settings and some mic placement (think I had my mic a little low).


There is one question/problem though. Last night I was trying to set up my Xbox 360 on HDMI 2 and was running into trouble. In a nutshell I couldn't get a picture unless I swapped it to HDMI 5 (which I had set up for my SageTV extender) and back. And after that, I tried changing the Xbox to 1080p on HDMI 2 and lost the picture.


So I guess I'm wondering/hoping there's some setting I'm missing. It seems like there's some handshake issue on the HDMI 2 port, that causes or prevents the connected devices from initializing/reinitializing their HDMI outputs?


For now I've moved my Xbox to HDMI 5 where it's working fine, and my SageTV extender to HDMI 3.


Any thoughts? Unfortunately HDMI, video, output, "no signal" are such common terms a search doesn't seem to yield any relevant info.


----------



## Texas steve

Well just tried "X" and and same problem as "W" on my D2v. Inputs (HDMI) 1-4 do not work - did not try the other inputs. I do get the overlay out of HDMI 1 (volume info, etc). I have no 3D inputs just your standard Oppo etc.


I switched back to 2.11 and again all is fine. did not want to mess up the Xmas movie/game time with wife (sure death)!


Any thoughts?


----------



## ASW

I loaded X yesterday and all was working well. Input changes with different resolutions seemed to switch better than past D2 or D2V firmware. I had not tried W.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well just tried "X" and and same problem as "W" on my D2v. Inputs (HDMI) 1-4 do not work - did not try the other inputs. I do get the overlay out of HDMI 1 (volume info, etc). I have no 3D inputs just your standard Oppo etc.
> 
> 
> I switched back to 2.11 and again all is fine. did not want to mess up the Xmas movie/game time with wife (sure death)!
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?



Let Anthem know on Tuesday but stick with what works for now.

Santa


----------



## Bruceko

I think I am entering hdmi hell.

I just got an Epson 6010 projector. I have a D2, not D2v and an Oppo 93 and a Pioneer plasma 1540.

Currently the D2 hdmi output runs to the plasma

My plan was to run one hdmi output on the Oppo straight to the projector and the second hdmi output to the D2.

First I tried oppo hdmi2 to the projector and output one to the d2

In the oppo menu I set the hdmi2 to video and audio to lpcm

the picture works on the projector but no audio on the d2 one the movie actually starts.

I swapped the projector to hdmi1 on the Oppo and Hdmi 2 to the D2.

I get audio intermittently but it keeps dropping like it keeps trying to handshake.

The video stays solid. this is happening when the Oppo is set to Lpcm. If I switch to Bitstream I just get popping and static.

As a side note I ran a 40' monprice 24 gauge cable to the projector and no go for the 3d

Thanks for any insight you can offer


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/21395139
> 
> 
> I think I am entering hdmi hell.
> 
> I just got an Epson 6010 projector. I have a D2, not D2v and an Oppo 93 and a Pioneer plasma 1540.
> 
> Currently the D2 hdmi output runs to the plasma
> 
> My plan was to run one hdmi output on the Oppo straight to the projector and the second hdmi output to the D2.
> 
> First I tried oppo hdmi2 to the projector and output one to the d2
> 
> In the oppo menu I set the hdmi2 to video and audio to lpcm
> 
> the picture works on the projector but no audio on the d2 one the movie actually starts.
> 
> I swapped the projector to hdmi1 on the Oppo and Hdmi 2 to the D2.
> 
> I get audio intermittently but it keeps dropping like it keeps trying to handshake.
> 
> The video stays solid. this is happening when the Oppo is set to Lpcm. If I switch to Bitstream I just get popping and static.
> 
> As a side note I ran a 40' monprice 24 gauge cable to the projector and no go for the 3d
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can offer



This is just a wild guess as your description of which HDMI is going where is slightly confusing to me.

First, make sure your audio set up in the Oppo is limited to 96k as this is the max for the D2.

Second, if playing a BD disc and you have selected a HD codec then the decoding has to be done in the OPPO.

Third, whichever HDMI input you are using on the D2 for the audio signal make sure you have assigned that audio source button to the correct audio input, HDMI1, HDMI2, etc


----------



## arthurrubenstein

Does anyone know anyone in NY / long island area that could run ARC for me and/ or troubleshoot my system? I currently have the anthem A5 and avm 40 with b&w 803 d's front speakers and htm2d center and pioneer bp 09 fd blu ray. The audio dealer has been back to my house maybe 10-15 times since I first purchased the system about 1 and 1/2 years ago trying to correct what he has been describing as room deficiencies / poor acoustics...my issue is that the dialogue from the center channel has never sounded right...initially it was way too boomy with dialogue that was difficult to hear quite frequently.i upgraded the wiring to very expensive wires and spent a ton of money on acoustic panels on my ceiling and paneling behind the center speaker. Dealer recently reran the ARC and although the dialogue may be somewhat better/ clearer and less boomy it still doesn't sound right as voices do not sound natural and i actually get better sounding -more natural sound/ dialogue out of my panny plasma speakers in another room... At times the sound almost appears to be slightly distorted when for example someone raises their voice both from cable tv and the blu ray. It sounds like the voices are lacking their natural warmth now..and missing something.... The dealer tells me that to him the sound is fine but it is not fine to me and too many of my friends / family that listen.. When the ARC was running the guys were talking and walking around and sneeezing a few times and although they said that wouldn't affect the ARC - I am not sure....


Anyone have any suggestions or know anyone in ny / long island who can help me? I wish I could run the ARC on my own but wouldn't really have a clue how to do it.. Thanks so much.


----------



## JimP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21395478
> 
> 
> Does anyone know anyone in NY / long island area that could run ARC for me and/ or troubleshoot my system? I currently have the anthem A5 and avm 40 with b&w 803 d's front speakers and htm2d center and pioneer bp 09 fd blu ray. The audio dealer has been back to my house maybe 10-15 times since I first purchased the system about 1/12 years ago trying to correct what he has been describing as room deficiencies / poor acoustics...my issue is that the dialogue from the center channel has never sounded right...initially it was way too boomy with dialogue that was difficult to hear quite frequently.i upgraded the wiring to very expensive wires and spent a ton of money on acoustic panels on my ceiling and paneling behind the center speaker. Dealer recently reran the ARC and although the dialogue may be somewhat better/ clearer and less boomy it still doesn't sound right as voices do not sound natural and i actually get better sounding -more natural sound/ dialogue out of my panny plasma speakers in another room... At times the sound almost appears to be slightly distorted when for example someone raises their voice both from cable tv and the blu ray. It sounds like the voices are lacking their natural warmth now..and missing something.... The dealer tells me that to him the sound is fine but it is not fine to me and too many of my friends / family that listen.. When the ARC was running the guys were talking and walking around and sneeezing a few times and although they said that wouldn't affect the ARC - I am not sure....
> 
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions or know anyone in ny / long island who can help me? I wish I could run the ARC on my own but wouldn't really have a clue how to do it.. Thanks so much.



Wish I was local as I'd really like to come over and help.


First thing....if they're talking and sneezing while running ARC, it's a pretty good bet that they aren't trying to get it calibrated and are only going through the motions to get you to buy more product as it appears that they have. Best advice here is to STOP using them.


If possible, please post some photos of your room.


----------



## arthurrubenstein

/Users/arube1/Desktop/photo.JPG Thanks Jim- appreciate the reply....Let me know if you could see the pic- not sure i did it correctly thanks again


----------



## arthurrubenstein

 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...1&d=1324819419 


not sure i know how to attach pics unfortunately


----------



## wabbit636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/21395139
> 
> 
> I think I am entering hdmi hell.
> 
> I just got an Epson 6010 projector. I have a D2, not D2v and an Oppo 93 and a Pioneer plasma 1540.
> 
> Currently the D2 hdmi output runs to the plasma
> 
> My plan was to run one hdmi output on the Oppo straight to the projector and the second hdmi output to the D2.
> 
> First I tried oppo hdmi2 to the projector and output one to the d2
> 
> In the oppo menu I set the hdmi2 to video and audio to lpcm
> 
> the picture works on the projector but no audio on the d2 one the movie actually starts.
> 
> I swapped the projector to hdmi1 on the Oppo and Hdmi 2 to the D2.
> 
> I get audio intermittently but it keeps dropping like it keeps trying to handshake.
> 
> The video stays solid. this is happening when the Oppo is set to Lpcm. If I switch to Bitstream I just get popping and static.
> 
> As a side note I ran a 40' monprice 24 gauge cable to the projector and no go for the 3d
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can offer



Let me know if you eventually got this to work as I also have a D2 and want to use an HDMI from the Oppo 93 (still haven't bought one yet as my PS3 just died on me last night!) directly to the projector and the 2nd HDMI to the D2 in hopes that I can get a better picture this way without using the D2's "outdated" video processor.


If this doesn't work, is there a way to plug it into the D2 without the use of the D2's internal video processor?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/21395698
> 
> 
> I also have a D2 and want to use an HDMI from the Oppo 93



i think you need an Oppo 95 for dual hdmi out or a Panny 310


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/0
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...1&d=1324819419
> 
> 
> not sure i know how to attach pics unfortunately



Your center channel appears to be in a cabinet or semi enclosed area below the TV. This can cause boominess from the boundary gain in the enclosure. Moving it out and then remeasuring with ARC could help. You might want to post your charts so people can get a better idea of you ARC setup.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

arthurrubenstein,


Was the ARC setup done on your own computer? Do you have the ARC results file so that you can view the ARC results charts?


Running ARC yourself is really not that tough and there are lots of folks here who can help you. Your problem with dialog could be due to lots of things including even a broken Center speaker or a faulty amp channel for Center.


Or it could be you've got your Source device set up incorrectly.


Diagnosing this stuff simply means approaching it in a logical fashion. For example you can eliminate the amp channel by swapping the inputs and outputs at the amp between, say Center and Left Front.


But the first order of business is to get the lay of the land. Since you are using an AVM 40, you may not be using HDMI for audio. So what Source are you using when evaluating dialog, and how do you have things wired up?


Even if you don't have the ARC charts handy, there are some indications left by what ARC has Uploaded into your AVM 40.


So go into Setup and look at Speaker Configuration > Bass Management Movie and Music and post what you find for the Crossover frequency values for all speakers. They may be different for Movie and Music so check both.


Then go into Setup > Level Calibration and post what you find for the volume trim values -- all the lines.


Next go into Setup > Source Setup for that Source you are using when you have the dialog problem and post all the settings you have made for that Source. There are simple mistakes you could have made that could explain everything -- such as having ARC turned OFF for that Source!


Finally, if you can, post a couple more photos of your room showing how the seating is positioned with respect to the speakers and anything unusual about the architecture of the room. The photo you posted for the front of the room doesn't show anything that I would expect to cause acoustical problems.


I would really recommend you take the time to work with folks here and learn how to run the ARC setup yourself. The learning curve is not that steep and you'll feel a LOT more confident in the results than having someone -- anyone -- do it for you.


If you DO have the ARC results file, then capture and post the charts showing the results for all the speakers and sub (not just for Center). Also click on the Targets button (upper left) to bring up the Targets window and capture and post that as well. We can eliminate a lot of possibilities right off the bat if you can post the ARC charts for us to look at.


One other question: Does your TV have its own speakers, and do you have things wired so that audio can come out of the TV's speakers when using the AVM 40?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21395709
> 
> 
> i think you need an Oppo 95 for dual hdmi out or a Panny 310



The Oppo 93 and 95 both have dual HDMI outputs.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21395478
> 
> 
> Does anyone know anyone in NY / long island area that could run ARC for me and/ or troubleshoot my system? I currently have the anthem A5 and avm 40 with b&w 803 d's front speakers and htm2d center and pioneer bp 09 fd blu ray. The audio dealer has been back to my house maybe 10-15 times since I first purchased the system about 1 and 1/2 years ago trying to correct what he has been describing as room deficiencies / poor acoustics...my issue is that the dialogue from the center channel has never sounded right...initially it was way too boomy with dialogue that was difficult to hear quite frequently.i upgraded the wiring to very expensive wires and spent a ton of money on acoustic panels on my ceiling and paneling behind the center speaker. Dealer recently reran the ARC and although the dialogue may be somewhat better/ clearer and less boomy it still doesn't sound right as voices do not sound natural and i actually get better sounding -more natural sound/ dialogue out of my panny plasma speakers in another room... At times the sound almost appears to be slightly distorted when for example someone raises their voice both from cable tv and the blu ray. It sounds like the voices are lacking their natural warmth now..and missing something.... The dealer tells me that to him the sound is fine but it is not fine to me and too many of my friends / family that listen.. When the ARC was running the guys were talking and walking around and sneeezing a few times and although they said that wouldn't affect the ARC - I am not sure....
> 
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions or know anyone in ny / long island who can help me? I wish I could run the ARC on my own but wouldn't really have a clue how to do it.. Thanks so much.



First of all, with a little practice and following the ARC instructions in the Anthem manual and some of Bob's posts(faq stickies on pg1 of this thread/ARC) you will be able to run ARC by yourself. We will help you if you need it.


Second, if they were talking/sneezing during the ARC sweeps it will most certainly taint your results. I do my ARC runs when my wife is out of the house. I turn off the furnace. I make sure there is as little noise as possible.

Set up your laptop so that you are out of the room if possible. Do not walk around the room during the ARC runs, except to move the mic to different positions when prompted by ARC. Also, mic positioning is very crucial to getting accurate reading.

ARC has always made my center channel better, not worse. Dialog should be clearer and more natural with ARC.


Third, are you sure that your center channel speaker is not damaged or wired incorrectly? If possible, please post your ARC results and targets. You may be suffering from the 'Richard syndrome'. By having the people on this thread examine your charts we will be able to help you better.


Tom


edit- I see Bob beat me to it


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/21395139
> 
> 
> I think I am entering hdmi hell.
> 
> I just got an Epson 6010 projector. I have a D2, not D2v and an Oppo 93 and a Pioneer plasma 1540.
> 
> Currently the D2 hdmi output runs to the plasma
> 
> My plan was to run one hdmi output on the Oppo straight to the projector and the second hdmi output to the D2.
> 
> First I tried oppo hdmi2 to the projector and output one to the d2
> 
> In the oppo menu I set the hdmi2 to video and audio to lpcm
> 
> the picture works on the projector but no audio on the d2 one the movie actually starts.
> 
> I swapped the projector to hdmi1 on the Oppo and Hdmi 2 to the D2.
> 
> I get audio intermittently but it keeps dropping like it keeps trying to handshake.
> 
> The video stays solid. this is happening when the Oppo is set to Lpcm. If I switch to Bitstream I just get popping and static.
> 
> As a side note I ran a 40' monprice 24 gauge cable to the projector and no go for the 3d
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can offer



Nah, this is not HDMI hell. Just a character building challenge!










OK, first of all, to run a dual HDMI setup out of the Oppo 93 use the HDMI 1 output for video and the HDMI 2 output for audio. The HDMI 1 output is the one in the middle of the back panel. The HDMI 2 output is the one towards the side of the back panel.


Since you are using a D2, you *MUST* set the player to do the decoding and send HDMI LPCM audio to your D2.


So in the Oppo, set:


Video Setup > Primary Output HDMI 1

HDMI Color Space YCbCr 4:4:4

HDMI Deep Color OFF


Audio > HDMI Audio LPCM

SACD Output PCM

HDCD Decoding ON


NOTE: The LPCM rate limit another poster suggested you lower to 96KHz only affects the Optical/Coax digital audio outputs of the Oppo. Also, none of the Speaker Configuration settings in the Oppo alter its HDMI output. HDMI audio is configured automatically during the handshake with the D2.


For a start, also set 1080p/24 OFF, 3D Mode OFF, and Resolution 1080i (not 1080p).


Now, make sure you have your display set to use the input that is wired to the HDMI 1 output of the Oppo.


Then in the D2, go into Setup > Source Setup for the Source you are using when playing the Oppo.


Set it to send the appropriate HDMI input jack to the Scaler.

Set audio to HDMI Dig.

Set Auto Dig OFF


Finally, temporarily DISCONNECT the HDMI cable between the D2 and the TV.


Now try playing content on the Oppo and see if you get good video and audio.


If so, now we can start changing settings back to what you really want to use and see if problems develop. For example start by changing the output of the Oppo to 1080p.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/21395139
> 
> 
> I think I am entering hdmi hell.
> 
> I just got an Epson 6010 projector. I have a D2, not D2v and an Oppo 93 and a Pioneer plasma 1540.
> 
> Currently the D2 hdmi output runs to the plasma
> 
> My plan was to run one hdmi output on the Oppo straight to the projector and the second hdmi output to the D2.
> 
> First I tried oppo hdmi2 to the projector and output one to the d2
> 
> In the oppo menu I set the hdmi2 to video and audio to lpcm
> 
> the picture works on the projector but no audio on the d2 one the movie actually starts.
> 
> I swapped the projector to hdmi1 on the Oppo and Hdmi 2 to the D2.
> 
> I get audio intermittently but it keeps dropping like it keeps trying to handshake.
> 
> The video stays solid. this is happening when the Oppo is set to Lpcm. If I switch to Bitstream I just get popping and static.
> 
> As a side note I ran a 40' monprice 24 gauge cable to the projector and no go for the 3d
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can offer





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wabbit636* /forum/post/21395698
> 
> 
> Let me know if you eventually got this to work as I also have a D2 and want to use an HDMI from the Oppo 93 (still haven't bought one yet as my PS3 just died on me last night!) directly to the projector and the 2nd HDMI to the D2 in hopes that I can get a better picture this way without using the D2's "outdated" video processor.
> 
> 
> If this doesn't work, is there a way to plug it into the D2 without the use of the D2's internal video processor?



I'll be hooking my BDP 93 up tonight or tomorrow after it gets unwrapped. I have the original D2 also going to a a JVC RS-45 I'll let you know how it goes. I believe you want the Oppo HDMI 1 going to the projector, forget the reason though. My first guess is the 40ft cable to the projector even though you say video is working. Anyway you can use a shorter temporary cable to test? What happens if you run at 720P instead of 1080 assuming that's what you are running? Were you trying to bitstream DTS MA-HD or Dolby THD? Have you tried a regular DVD instead of a BD? Just trying to narrow things down.


Wabbit I'm in the same boat trying to figure out how to work around the D2's dated VP. There is no way to bypass the VP in the D2 or D2v, the upcoming 3D upgrade is supposed to allow bypassing. The D2 is really starting to show its age.

ETA: How the **** does Bob do it??? He types two very good responses while I fumble over one and on Xmas morning no less.
Merry Christmas


----------



## CharlieU

Arthur,


I'm wondering if your center speaker is even pointed properly. You may want to tilt it up a bit. When I sit in the sweet seat, if the tweeter took off like a rocket, it would hit me square between the eyes. I believe the vertical dispersion is only like 10 degrees with these speakers and the frequency response can drop dramatically when you are off axis. Of course you would have to run ARC again, but this might help until you can find someone to assist you.


Another thing to try if the speaker is too boomy, is to put in the port plug that came with the speaker.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21395709
> 
> 
> i think you need an Oppo 95 for dual hdmi out or a Panny 310



Nope the 95 is the "audiophile" version of the 93. Both have two HDMI's. Have another cup of coffee Doc.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/21395774
> 
> 
> Nope the 95 is the "audiophile" version of the 93. Both have two HDMI's. Have another cup of coffee Doc.



I looked at some website this morning that had the WRONG Info.


You and Bob are correct when you go to the OPPO website


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bruceko,


Another setting I forgot to suggest for your dual HDMI hookup:


In the OPPO Setup > Video Setup > HDMI Options set Video Only (HDMI 1) to YES.


That's in case your projector is unhappy with audio on its HDMI input.

--Bob


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Arthur,
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if your center speaker is even pointed properly. You may want to tilt it up a bit. When I sit in the sweet seat, if the tweeter took off like a rocket, it would hit me square between the eyes. I believe the vertical dispersion is only like 10 degrees with these speakers and the frequency response can drop dramatically when you are off axis. Of course you would have to run ARC again, but this might help until you can find someone to assist you.
> 
> 
> Another thing to try if the speaker is too boomy, is to put in the port plug that came with the speaker.



^^^ I have similar B&W speakers and have also noticed they are very directional. I raised the angle of my front speaker by placing rubber furniture pads under the front of the speaker, which I feel helped it's sound. I also had to move my front speaker out away front the wall, which helped with the low end. I had to play with the position for a while, but it is time well spent. Good luck & happy holidays to everyone.


----------



## arthurrubenstein

Thanks so much for all the info-the ARC was done on the dealers laptop and i dont have those results but i can ask him for that...i will check internally on the anthem for what you mentioned and report back...can i do the arc myself if i do not own a laptop? i have an imac but it is a desktop ..

What bothered me most was that after the Dealer did the ARC they basically wanted to run out before even listening to see what it sounded like....


is there any way i can tell other than bringing it somewhere to see if the center is damaged? the center was once damaged before when they claimed the tweeter was blown and they repaired it free of charge...there were very loud popping noises when i switched from blu ray to cable etc. previously, which i attributed to blowing the tweeter but the dealer said it was from playing it too loudly although i never do it play it loudly..he did something the other day he was here which he thinks eliminated the popping and so far it has..


Thanks again..


i have spent so much money with these guys including upgrading ( according to them) from the marantz 8003 to the anthem as well as the wiring, the panels, carpeting, etc...


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21395726
> 
> 
> arthurrubenstein,
> 
> 
> Was the ARC setup done on your own computer? Do you have the ARC results file so that you can view the ARC results charts?
> 
> 
> Running ARC yourself is really not that tough and there are lots of folks here who can help you. Your problem with dialog could be due to lots of things including even a broken Center speaker or a faulty amp channel for Center.
> 
> 
> Or it could be you've got your Source device set up incorrectly.
> 
> 
> Diagnosing this stuff simply means approaching it in a logical fashion. For example you can eliminate the amp channel by swapping the inputs and outputs at the amp between, say Center and Left Front.
> 
> 
> But the first order of business is to get the lay of the land. Since you are using an AVM 40, you may not be using HDMI for audio. So what Source are you using when evaluating dialog, and how do you have things wired up?
> 
> 
> Even if you don't have the ARC charts handy, there are some indications left by what ARC has Uploaded into your AVM 40.
> 
> 
> So go into Setup and look at Speaker Configuration > Bass Management Movie and Music and post what you find for the Crossover frequency values for all speakers. They may be different for Movie and Music so check both.
> 
> 
> Then go into Setup > Level Calibration and post what you find for the volume trim values -- all the lines.
> 
> 
> Next go into Setup > Source Setup for that Source you are using when you have the dialog problem and post all the settings you have made for that Source. There are simple mistakes you could have made that could explain everything -- such as having ARC turned OFF for that Source!
> 
> 
> Finally, if you can, post a couple more photos of your room showing how the seating is positioned with respect to the speakers and anything unusual about the architecture of the room. The photo you posted for the front of the room doesn't show anything that I would expect to cause acoustical problems.
> 
> 
> I would really recommend you take the time to work with folks here and learn how to run the ARC setup yourself. The learning curve is not that steep and you'll feel a LOT more confident in the results than having someone -- anyone -- do it for you.
> 
> 
> If you DO have the ARC results file, then capture and post the charts showing the results for all the speakers and sub (not just for Center). Also click on the Targets button (upper left) to bring up the Targets window and capture and post that as well. We can eliminate a lot of possibilities right off the bat if you can post the ARC charts for us to look at.
> 
> 
> One other question: Does your TV have its own speakers, and do you have things wired so that audio can come out of the TV's speakers when using the AVM 40?
> 
> --Bob



Thanks so much for all the info-the ARC was done on the dealers laptop and i dont have those results but i can ask him for that...i will check internally on the anthem for what you mentioned and report back...can i do the arc myself if i do not own a laptop? i have an imac but it is a desktop ..

What bothered me most was that after the Dealer did the ARC they basically wanted to run out before even listening to see what it sounded like....


is there any way i can tell other than bringing it somewhere to see if the center is damaged? the center was once damaged before when they claimed the tweeter was blown and they repaired it free of charge...there were very loud popping noises when i switched from blu ray to cable etc. previously, which i attributed to blowing the tweeter but the dealer said it was from playing it too loudly although i never do it play it loudly..he did something the other day he was here which he thinks eliminated the popping and so far it has..


Thanks again..


i have spent so much money with these guys including upgrading ( according to them) from the marantz 8003 to the anthem as well as the wiring, the panels, carpeting, etc...


----------



## arthurrubenstein

sorry for my lack of any experience with this equipment but i am unable to even figure out how to get in to the setup to find some of the settings on the avm 40 and , of course, i can't find the manual at the moment..


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21396340
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> is there any way i can tell other than bringing it somewhere to see if the center is damaged? the center was once damaged before when they claimed the tweeter was blown and they repaired it free of charge...there were very loud popping noises when i switched from blu ray to cable etc. previously, which i attributed to blowing the tweeter but the dealer said it was from playing it too loudly although i never do it play it loudly..he did something the other day he was here which he thinks eliminated the popping and so far it has..



One way to do is:

- disconnect all your speakers

- hook your center speaker to the left-front output

- play some music and put your ear close to each of the speakers on your center and check that some sound should be coming out from each of them.


A center speaker is usually pretty close to the spec of your left or right front and should sound good alone (no distortion).


----------



## ~Ohdee~

I Need HELP!


Got my 4 year old a Wii for Christmas.


Stupid yellow white and red ends.


Two hours later I can not get video. I have it **** up through Aux composite video in and Aux analog audio in.


I get audio but.... no video!!!


Going HDMI out to display.


What am I doing wrong???????


----------



## obie_fl

Have you selected Composite in the Input setup? Menu item 6 I believe.


ETA: Oh wait composite... won't work if you are using HDMI out. Any chance the Wii has S-Vid or component too?


----------



## tranle

^^ You need to get the Wii component cable adapter or use something else than hdmi to your tv.


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Component cable adapter? We'll at least I'm not going crazy! Can I get one at walmart?


Thanks...


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/21396478
> 
> 
> Component cable adapter? We'll at least I'm not going crazy! Can I get on at walmart?
> 
> 
> Thanks...



I think that Walmart may have them. Just do a google search for "Wii component cable" so you have an idea what it looks like.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Component cable adapter? We'll at least I'm not going crazy! Can I get on at walmart?
> 
> 
> Thanks...



You can also get an inexpensive Composite Video to S-video adapter. But Component (3 cable) video will look better.

--Bob


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21395726
> 
> 
> arthurrubenstein,
> 
> 
> Was the ARC setup done on your own computer? Do you have the ARC results file so that you can view the ARC results charts?
> 
> 
> Running ARC yourself is really not that tough and there are lots of folks here who can help you. Your problem with dialog could be due to lots of things including even a broken Center speaker or a faulty amp channel for Center.
> 
> 
> Or it could be you've got your Source device set up incorrectly.
> 
> 
> Diagnosing this stuff simply means approaching it in a logical fashion. For example you can eliminate the amp channel by swapping the inputs and outputs at the amp between, say Center and Left Front.
> 
> 
> But the first order of business is to get the lay of the land. Since you are using an AVM 40, you may not be using HDMI for audio. So what Source are you using when evaluating dialog, and how do you have things wired up?
> 
> 
> Even if you don't have the ARC charts handy, there are some indications left by what ARC has Uploaded into your AVM 40.
> 
> 
> So go into Setup and look at Speaker Configuration > Bass Management Movie and Music and post what you find for the Crossover frequency values for all speakers. They may be different for Movie and Music so check both.
> 
> 
> Then go into Setup > Level Calibration and post what you find for the volume trim values -- all the lines.
> 
> 
> Next go into Setup > Source Setup for that Source you are using when you have the dialog problem and post all the settings you have made for that Source. There are simple mistakes you could have made that could explain everything -- such as having ARC turned OFF for that Source!
> 
> 
> Finally, if you can, post a couple more photos of your room showing how the seating is positioned with respect to the speakers and anything unusual about the architecture of the room. The photo you posted for the front of the room doesn't show anything that I would expect to cause acoustical problems.
> 
> 
> I would really recommend you take the time to work with folks here and learn how to run the ARC setup yourself. The learning curve is not that steep and you'll feel a LOT more confident in the results than having someone -- anyone -- do it for you.
> 
> 
> If you DO have the ARC results file, then capture and post the charts showing the results for all the speakers and sub (not just for Center). Also click on the Targets button (upper left) to bring up the Targets window and capture and post that as well. We can eliminate a lot of possibilities right off the bat if you can post the ARC charts for us to look at.
> 
> 
> One other question: Does your TV have its own speakers, and do you have things wired so that audio can come out of the TV's speakers when using the AVM 40?
> 
> --Bob



Okay- here are some of the settings-


Front crossovers=60; center crossover =60; sub/lfe=60; surr=115


Speaker calib:FL=0; Center 3.0 ;FR=.5 ; Surr R=0;Sur L=-2.0 ;movie sub=

-1.5; music sub= 1.5


Listener position had 12.0 feet for everything ( odd since that is not correct) except rears had 4.0 for both...

incidentally i have high ceilings in the room... thanks for all your help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21396721
> 
> 
> Okay- here are some of the settings-
> 
> 
> Front crossovers=60; center crossover =60; sub/lfe=60; surr=115
> 
> 
> Speaker calib:FL=0; Center 3.0 ;FR=.5 ; Surr R=0;Sur L=-2.0 ;movie sub=
> 
> -1.5; music sub= 1.5
> 
> 
> Listener position had 12.0 feet for everything ( odd since that is not correct) except rears had 4.0 for both...
> 
> incidentally i have high ceilings in the room... thanks for all your help.



OK that's a good start. There are no problems showing in your crossover frequencies or speaker volume trim values.


I take it you have a 5.1 speaker system (Side surround speakers but no Rear surround speakers).


Go ahead and put in the proper speaker distances now. You can do that without having to re-run ARC. Incorrect speaker distances will screw up the positioning of sounds that are supposed to be located between pairs of speakers, but generally doesn't screw up dialog.


----------------------------------------------------


Now, don't rush this. Re-read my prior post. There are other questions that need to be answered.


What's the make and model of the source device you are playing when the dialog is screwed up?


How do you have that cabled for audio?


Go into Setup > Source Setup in the Anthem for the Source you are using when you play that device and post all the settings. In particular, everything you've complained about could be explained quite easily if you discover that ARC happens to be turned OFF for that Source.


Does your TV have built-in speakers. Is it capable of playing audio through those built-in speakers from the AVM-40? If you've accidentally got the TV speakers turned on AS WELL as your main set of 5.1 speakers that too could easily explain the problem you are having.


----------------------------------------


You will need a Windows PC running Windows XP, Vista, or Windows 7 to do ARC stuff. You need one USB port to attach the ARC mic to the PC and you also need a Serial (RS-232) connection to the Anthem. Many people use laptops that do not have a Serial port, and so they use a 2nd USB port along with the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter to provide the Serial port at the PC end.


You will need your ARC mic, mic stand, and USB mic cable, and your original ARC install CD which has your ARC license and mic calibration data file on it. If your dealer has those, you'll need them back.


NOTE: You need *YOUR* ARC mic -- the one that matches the calibration data file on your ARC install CD. The ARC mics have serial numbers.


NOTE 2: If your Mac is an Intel based (not PowerPC based Mac) then you can set it up to boot up into Windows instead of into Mac OS X. Apple includes a thing called Boot Camp that sets that up. If you are running the latest Mac OS (10.7.x -- Lion) you'll find BootCamp Assistant in Applications > Utilities with instructions. For the version of BootCamp that comes with Lion, you will need to set up Windows 7 (not XP or Vista). You will need to purchase a retail copy of Windows 7. BootCamp sets things up so that you can install Windows 7 in a new "partition" on your hard drive, and then you can select whether Windows or Mac boots up when you power up to the Mac.


----------------------------------------


The AVM-40 Manual (a PDF file) can be downloaded from here:

http://archive.anthemav.com/NewSitev...edProduct.html 


The firmware in your AVM 40 should be V1.33. Press Select once on the AVM 40 remote and the firmware version will show in the Front Panel display.


ARC setup is done using a Windows PC application. The current ARC application version is V3.0.2. If the version on your ARC install CD is older, you need to update to the current version, which is easy, once you get a Windows PC to use.

--Bob


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21396873
> 
> 
> OK that's a good start. There are no problems showing in your crossover frequencies or speaker volume trim values.
> 
> 
> I take it you have a 5.1 speaker system (Side surround speakers but no Rear surround speakers).
> 
> 
> Go ahead and put in the proper speaker distances now. You can do that without having to re-run ARC. Incorrect speaker distances will screw up the positioning of sounds that are supposed to be located between pairs of speakers, but generally doesn't screw up dialog.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Now, don't rush this. Re-read my prior post. There are other questions that need to be answered.
> 
> 
> What's the make and model of the source device you are playing when the dialog is screwed up?
> 
> 
> How do you have that cabled for audio?
> 
> 
> Go into Setup > Source Setup in the Anthem for the Source you are using when you play that device and post all the settings. In particular, everything you've complained about could be explained quite easily if you discover that ARC happens to be turned OFF for that Source.
> 
> 
> Does your TV have built-in speakers. Is it capable of playing audio through those built-in speakers from the AVM-40? If you've accidentally got the TV speakers turned on AS WELL as your main set of 5.1 speakers that too could easily explain the problem you are having.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> You will need a Windows PC running Windows XP, Vista, or Windows 7 to do ARC stuff. You need one USB port to attach the ARC mic to the PC and you also need a Serial (RS-232) connection to the Anthem. Many people use laptops that do not have a Serial port, and so they use a 2nd USB port along with the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter to provide the Serial port at the PC end.
> 
> 
> You will need your ARC mic, mic stand, and USB mic cable, and your original ARC install CD which has your ARC license and mic calibration data file on it. If your dealer has those, you'll need them back.
> 
> 
> NOTE: You need *YOUR* ARC mic -- the one that matches the calibration data file on your ARC install CD. The ARC mics have serial numbers.
> 
> 
> NOTE 2: If your Mac is an Intel based (not PowerPC based Mac) then you can set it up to boot up into Windows instead of into Mac OS X. Apple includes a thing called Boot Camp that sets that up. If you are running the latest Mac OS (10.7.x -- Lion) you'll find BootCamp Assistant in Applications > Utilities with instructions. For the version of BootCamp that comes with Lion, you will need to set up Windows 7 (not XP or Vista). You will need to purchase a retail copy of Windows 7. BootCamp sets things up so that you can install Windows 7 in a new "partition" on your hard drive, and then you can select whether Windows or Mac boots up when you power up to the Mac.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The AVM-40 Manual (a PDF file) can be downloaded from here:
> 
> http://archive.anthemav.com/NewSitev...edProduct.html
> 
> 
> The firmware in your AVM 40 should be V1.33. Press Select once on the AVM 40 remote and the firmware version will show in the Front Panel display.
> 
> 
> ARC setup is done using a Windows PC application. The current ARC application version is V3.0.2. If the version on your ARC install CD is older, you need to update to the current version, which is easy, once you get a Windows PC to use.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob- will answer the rest of your questions later but the pioneer plasma does not have speakers and the source for most of the poor dialogue is the pioneer bd-09 blu ray which is connected to the system via 5.1 ( i think----i know for sure it is not hdmi-there were some switching problems with hdmi so we switched ) because i am told the pioneer blu ray has such good processing it is running direct from there...the cable tv is run through hdmi... i do have the mic and the cd and all that stuff...


by the way all the speakers were set to advanced and i tried to change it to small and it probably sounded worse...i did switch on the center eq...


also i have rear wall speakers (built in) and do not have side speakers.. i just downloaded the manual- excellent!- thanks !!


----------



## Texas steve

Bob, was Santa not good to you that your on your computer all day Xmas? Or, werent you a good boy?!!! Merry Xmas!


----------



## arthurrubenstein

Bob-here are the readouts for the following:

Source for TV read as follows:

Convert in---hdmi;

IF YCBCR In: hdtv

RGB in---studio ;

Component, s-video,compos in-no;

audio: dig coax tv;

Auto dig :no

muting:min

Eq:LF = 0.0 HF 0.0

Bass Mngr: Movie

Room Eq:0n

Lip Sync 0.0


FOR DVD-

Convert In- hdmi

IF YCBCR: HDTV

IF RGB In:Studio

Component In:NO

S-video-NONE

Compos In:NO

Audio: Dig Coax DVD

Auto Dig : YES

Muting :Medium

Eq:LF =0.0 HF 0.0

Bass mngr: Movie

Room Eq: On

Lip sync: 0.0


seems confusing to me because my dvd is not hooked up via hdmi- what do you think?


----------



## Bruceko




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21395755
> 
> 
> Nah, this is not HDMI hell. Just a character building challenge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, first of all, to run a dual HDMI setup out of the Oppo 93 use the HDMI 1 output for video and the HDMI 2 output for audio. The HDMI 1 output is the one in the middle of the back panel. The HDMI 2 output is the one towards the side of the back panel.
> 
> 
> Since you are using a D2, you *MUST* set the player to do the decoding and send HDMI LPCM audio to your D2.
> 
> 
> So in the Oppo, set:
> 
> 
> Video Setup > Primary Output HDMI 1
> 
> HDMI Color Space YCbCr 4:4:4
> 
> HDMI Deep Color OFF
> 
> 
> Audio > HDMI Audio LPCM
> 
> SACD Output PCM
> 
> HDCD Decoding ON
> 
> 
> NOTE: The LPCM rate limit another poster suggested you lower to 96KHz only affects the Optical/Coax digital audio outputs of the Oppo. Also, none of the Speaker Configuration settings in the Oppo alter its HDMI output. HDMI audio is configured automatically during the handshake with the D2.
> 
> 
> For a start, also set 1080p/24 OFF, 3D Mode OFF, and Resolution 1080i (not 1080p).
> 
> 
> Now, make sure you have your display set to use the input that is wired to the HDMI 1 output of the Oppo.
> 
> 
> Then in the D2, go into Setup > Source Setup for the Source you are using when playing the Oppo.
> 
> 
> Set it to send the appropriate HDMI input jack to the Scaler.
> 
> Set audio to HDMI Dig.
> 
> Set Auto Dig OFF
> 
> 
> Finally, temporarily DISCONNECT the HDMI cable between the D2 and the TV.
> 
> 
> Now try playing content on the Oppo and see if you get good video and audio.
> 
> 
> If so, now we can start changing settings back to what you really want to use and see if problems develop. For example start by changing the output of the Oppo to 1080p.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob for the help You are of great value to the AVS Community


I made the changes you suggested and it fixed the audio drop out on the D2.

I then started playing withe the settings on the OPPO and it seems odd to me but when I changed all the settings you suggested back to where they were before EXCEPT the Color space the audio continues to work fine.

The 4.4.4 seems to be the correct one


Now I need to work on trying to get the OPPO to send a 3d signal to the Epson Projector. I suspect my problem is the 40' HDMI cable but want to rule out the settings on the OPPO.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21397105
> 
> 
> Bob-here are the readouts for the following:
> 
> Source for TV read as follows:
> 
> Convert in---hdmi;
> 
> IF YCBCR In: hdtv
> 
> RGB in---studio ;
> 
> Component, s-video,compos in-no;
> 
> audio: dig coax tv;
> 
> Auto dig :no
> 
> muting:min
> 
> Eq:LF = 0.0 HF 0.0
> 
> Bass Mngr: Movie
> 
> Room Eq:0n
> 
> Lip Sync 0.0
> 
> 
> FOR DVD-
> 
> Convert In- hdmi
> 
> IF YCBCR: HDTV
> 
> IF RGB In:Studio
> 
> Component In:NO
> 
> S-video-NONE
> 
> Compos In:NO
> 
> Audio: Dig Coax DVD
> 
> Auto Dig : YES
> 
> Muting :Medium
> 
> Eq:LF =0.0 HF 0.0
> 
> Bass mngr: Movie
> 
> Room Eq: On
> 
> Lip sync: 0.0
> 
> 
> seems confusing to me because my dvd is not hooked up via hdmi- what do you think?



You say you are using that "DVD" Source definition in the AVM 40 when playing the Pioneer Blu-ray player?


A couple things. Right now you have that set to get audio on Coaxial Digital audio cabling. That will work, but you can not get the high bit-rate Blu-ray tracks (DTS-HD MA, TrueHD, or multi-channel LPCM) over that cabling. The Pioneer will be forced to send a "compatibility" track instead which doesn't sound as good. Indeed if you have the Pioneer set the wrong way it may only be sending a STEREO DOWN-MIX out that cable, which will sound pretty bad and could be a significant factor in your finding dialog screwed up.


Next you have Auto Dig set for that source. What that means is that if the digital signal goes away on the Coaxial input, the AVM 40 will start pulling ANALOG audio from the DVD *STEREO* Analog jacks instead. So if those are cabled from the Blu-ray player and if you have things set incorrectly in that player, you may even be getting ANALOG input of a stereo down mix which will make the situation even worse.


Now, the AVM 40 has no video processing to speak of. It's HDMI video is basically pass through. So sending HDMI Audio/Video into the AVM 40 with video going on from the 40 to your display should work just fine with no degradation of video quality.


And you'll either need to do that or hook up MULTI-CHANNEL analog audio from the Pioneer to the 40 to get proper audio from Blu-ray discs.


For the TV input you are also using Coaxial Digital Audio cabling. That's a good choice for audio from a TV set top box, but there too it is possible to screw things up. You must make sure the set top box is set to send Bitstream audio over that cabling instead of PCM audio. If it is set to PCM (which is likely the default), then you will get a STEREO DOWN MIX of any multi-channel programs you happen to watch.


I'm beginning to suspect that there's a basic setup problem here that needs to be addressed first. Anybody vetting your Blu-ray setup would be concerned that you are depending on Coax audio from that player. That's a red flag raising the possibility there may be other, simple setup mistakes. At the very least it's time to go through the source settings to make sure the TV box is putting out the right stuff and to check again to see if you can use HDMI audio from the Pioneer Blu-ray.


If there's some good reason why you can't use either HDMI audio or at least multi-channel Analog audio from that player, then you might need to consider replacing that player.


The good news is that if we find a simple setup mistake like that, then there may be an easy fix to your audio problem!


----------------------------------------------------


Did you confirm the firmware version in the 40 was V1.33? And what version of the ARC application have you been using?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21397076
> 
> 
> Bob, was Santa not good to you that your on your computer all day Xmas? Or, werent you a good boy?!!! Merry Xmas!



We here at "Bob Pariseau" live only to serve....


And typing keeps the fingers warm when the coal fire burns low.


Can't chat now -- Mr. Scrooge is returning.

--Bob (God Bless us Every One!) P.


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21397372
> 
> 
> You say you are using that "DVD" Source definition in the AVM 40 when playing the Pioneer Blu-ray player?
> 
> 
> A couple things. Right now you have that set to get audio on Coaxial Digital audio cabling. That will work, but you can not get the high bit-rate Blu-ray tracks (DTS-HD MA, TrueHD, or multi-channel LPCM) over that cabling. The Pioneer will be forced to send a "compatibility" track instead which doesn't sound as good. Indeed if you have the Pioneer set the wrong way it may only be sending a STEREO DOWN-MIX out that cable, which will sound pretty bad and could be a significant factor in your finding dialog screwed up.
> 
> 
> Next you have Auto Dig set for that source. What that means is that if the digital signal goes away on the Coaxial input, the AVM 40 will start pulling ANALOG audio from the DVD *STEREO* Analog jacks instead. So if those are cabled from the Blu-ray player and if you have things set incorrectly in that player, you may even be getting ANALOG input of a stereo down mix which will make the situation even worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, the AVM 40 has no video processing to speak of. It's HDMI video is basically pass through. So sending HDMI Audio/Video into the AVM 40 with video going on from the 40 to your display should work just fine with no degradation of video quality.
> 
> 
> And you'll either need to do that or hook up MULTI-CHANNEL analog audio from the Pioneer to the 40 to get proper audio from Blu-ray discs.
> 
> 
> For the TV input you are also using Coaxial Digital Audio cabling. That's a good choice for audio from a TV set top box, but there too it is possible to screw things up. You must make sure the set top box is set to send Bitstream audio over that cabling instead of PCM audio. If it is set to PCM (which is likely the default), then you will get a STEREO DOWN MIX of any multi-channel programs you happen to watch.
> 
> 
> I'm beginning to suspect that there's a basic setup problem here that needs to be addressed first. Anybody vetting your Blu-ray setup would be concerned that you are depending on Coax audio from that player. That's a red flag raising the possibility there may be other, simple setup mistakes. At the very least it's time to go through the source settings to make sure the TV box is putting out the right stuff and to check again to see if you can use HDMI audio from the Pioneer Blu-ray.
> 
> 
> If there's some good reason why you can't use either HDMI audio or at least multi-channel Analog audio from that player, then you might need to consider replacing that player.
> 
> 
> The good news is that if we find a simple setup mistake like that, then there may be an easy fix to your audio problem!
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Did you confirm the firmware version in the 40 was V1.33? And what version of the ARC application have you been using?
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob - I believe the blu ray is run through multi channel analog...i have the 5 cables going in the 6 channel in the back of the av 40 - with that in mind are the settings correct? Also. How would I know if I am in fact using the DVD source in the 40 for blu ray? I think I was just assuming that...the firmware is v.1.33 as you said and I am not sure what version of the arc application I am using...how would I check that? would that be on the cd?


As far as the cable box I don't think there is a setting for bitstream or PCM audio...


Should I check to see what the settings are on the blu ray? As far as bitstream ..etc...? Thanks again ! Arthur


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21398105
> 
> 
> Hi Bob - I believe the blu ray is run through multi channel analog...i have the 5 cables going in the 6 channel in the back of the av 40 - with that in mind are the settings correct? Also. How would I know if I am in fact using the DVD source in the 40 for blu ray? I think I was just assuming that...the firmware is v.1.33 as you said and I am not sure what version of the arc application I am using...how would I check that? would that be on the cd?
> 
> 
> As far as the cable box I don't think there is a setting for bitstream or PCM audio...
> 
> 
> Should I check to see what the settings are on the blu ray? As far as bitstream ..etc...? Thanks again ! Arthur



When you play something through the AVM 40, you select what you want to listen to using the Source buttons on the bottom of the AVM 40 remote. The currently selected Source (e.g., "DVD") will show in the normal Front Panel display on the AVM 40.


If you are selecting "DVD" to play that Blu-ray player, then that's the Source Definition you posted and it definitely is *NOT* using the 6-channel analog inputs for its audio. It's using either the Coaxial Digital audio feed connected to the DVD Coax Input jack on the AVM 40 or (since you have Auto Dig YES) it is using the STEREO Analog input jacks labeled "DVD" on the AVM 40.


To play audio from the 6-channel Analog input jacks on your AVM-40 you must use the "6-CH" Source instead of the "DVD" Source. And if that's the one you are using then you need to go back into Setup and post the Source Setup settings for 6-CH for us to look at.


-------------------------------------------------------


With the AVM 40 powered, press Select once and the firmware version number will be displayed in the Front Panel.


Your ARC install CD comes in a plastic protective case. The label on that case should say which version of ARC is on that CD. Once you have ARC installed on a Windows PC, you can also get the version number from the menu bar (Help > About ARC).


NOTE: Since your dealer used his own PC, he may have a different version of ARC on it than you have on your install CD, or he may have just used your install CD. The only way to know would be to ask him.


When you get your Windows PC, we'll have you download the latest ARC version (V3.0.2) and install that anyway. The version of ARC is important, because some older versions of ARC have bugs and your AVM 40 is old enough that it likely came with an older version.


----------------------------------------------------


Since your cable box has a Coax or Optical Digital audio output, it definitely has a setting somewhere to select between PCM and Bitstream digital audio format.


The PCM format from such boxes is intended for direct connection to a TV that doesn't understand things like Dolby Digital Bitstreams. It is a stereo down mix for the stereo speakers in such TVs. Most set top boxes will have this set by default because it is the "safer" choice since they can't know how you are hooking up the box.


The OTHER choice may be labeled different things, but what it does is allow Dolby Digital to be sent out over that Digital audio cable. THAT'S the choice you want. Look in the setup menu of your set top box for any settings related to audio and it should be in there. The setting will just have those two choices -- stereo down mix (PCM) or multi-channel Dolby Digital (Bitstream).


Similarly, if you really are using the Coax Digital audio output from your Blu-ray player, there's a setting just like that in the Blu-ray player too. Again you want the Bitstream choice.


In addition, there may be a setting for limiting the sampling rate of LPCM output on that cable (for when you are playing an LPCM-only source like a CD). If you find that in the Blu-ray player, set it to 96KHz for use with your AVM 40. (You won't find a setting like that in your cable TV box.)


Now, once we figure out what cabling your really are using from the Blu-ray player, and correct the Settings in the AVM 40 to match, then we'll also need to go through the settings in your Blu-ray player.


Again, right now we are just checking to see if there is an obvious setup problem in your current configuration that might explain your audio problem. As for the SOLUTION, the right answer, I suspect is to get back to using HDMI audio from your Blu-ray player.


------------------------------------------------


You understand what I'm getting at here? Your ARC setup may in fact be just fine -- we don't know that, for sure, but it's quite possible. The PROBLEM may be that you are not using your source devices correctly through the AVM 40.


For example, your dealer, who thinks everything is fine now, may have been using the "6-CH" Source input to check the resuls, whereas you are still using an improperly set up "DVD" input.


At some point we are going to have to see ARC charts to know, for sure, what's going on with ARC. If you can't get those from the dealer then we need to get you to the point where you can do your OWN ARC setup.


---------------------------------------------------


I should add that using 6-channel analog from a Blu-ray player can be COMPLICATED. There a whole bunch of speaker configuration and speaker level setting adjustments that need to be checked. Lots of chances for things to get screwed up.


HDMI audio is A LOT simpler to get right.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21398105
> 
> 
> Hi Bob - I believe the blu ray is run through multi channel analog...i have the 5 cables going in the 6 channel in the back of the av 40 - with that in mind are the settings correct? Also. How would I know if I am in fact using the DVD source in the 40 for blu ray? I think I was just assuming that...the firmware is v.1.33 as you said and I am not sure what version of the arc application I am using...how would I check that? would that be on the cd?
> 
> 
> As far as the cable box I don't think there is a setting for bitstream or PCM audio...
> 
> 
> Should I check to see what the settings are on the blu ray? As far as bitstream ..etc...? Thanks again ! Arthur



Arthur,


I'm not Bob, but I think I may be able to help a little.


If they set up your audio from your bluray to your Anthem with analog rca cables (there should be 6 cables, not 5, from the 'analog out' connections on the bluray attatched to the '6 ch in' on the back of your Anthem- LF>LF,RF>RF etc ...SW>SW).

You will need to set up your bluray for its analog outs to work properly. Usually setting all the speakers to large at the same distance and selecting which speakers you are using- or not using. In a 5.1 it would be fronts, center, surrounds (not rears, even though your surrounds are on your back wall) and subwoofer.

Please refer to your bluray's manual for proper set-up of the analog outs.


The speaker distances will be set in the Anthem's setup menu--get a tape measure and measure to the nearest 1/2 foot.


Bass management will be handled by ARC.


Plan A.

Next go into the Anthem setup menu and go to 'source setup'. Go to DVD1. Scroll down to 'i'--is it 'analog audio' ??

I'm running v1.47f on my D2 and I'm not sure that 1.33 has this option. If you do have that option then choose '6 ch s/e'.


If you don't have that option then we go to plan B.

That means you will set up your bluray in the '6-ch' source.

You can rename that source whatever you want, but you will access it by pushing the '6-ch' button on the front panel or remote.

You will want 'audio in' set to 'analog dsp'.

Set 'analog audio' to '6 ch s/e'.


After doing either A or B, put in a bluray with a lossless audio track (and make sure that audio is selected in the bluray's menu) and give a listen.

Any difference?? Center sound better/same/worse??


Theoretically you should be able to set up your bluray with hdmi cable, but since you have it set up for analog already this may be worth a try.


Tom


edit: I really need to learn how to type faster.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The first 10,000 posts are the toughest....









--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

congrats - I think!! bob have you tried X for the D2v? As mentioned I tried it and W neither would any HDMI input work. you would get the graphic overlay out of HDMI 1 (volume, etc), and internal FM would work fine but no HDMI inputs. I went back to 2.11 and all works fine. Any thoughts? I sent Nick a email











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21398952
> 
> 
> ^ The first 10,000 posts are the toughest....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob


----------



## arthurrubenstein

Hey Bob-Okay-when i turn the blu ray on this is what initially comes on the display: Dvd Analog DSP Main AL- cinema-- then a few seconds later this: DVD 1 PCM AL- Cinema... then a few seconds later this: DVD1 Dolby D 5.1 + NEO:6 then +PLIIX- movie.


not sure what it all means,however, i agree that hdmi would be much much simpler but the dealer said because of switching issues we couldn't use hdmi-i suspect there is something wrong with this set up..


the numbers on the cd cover of ARC reads :10528d ( microphone serial #) and # 137094 ( Anthem serial # )


To answer Tom's question there are 5 wires going in to "6 ch" area of the av40 and a

6th wire going into the composite area labeled dvd on the back of the av40.



not sure what all this means but i am calling the dealer now and ask some questions which i know will not make them happy...


As far as the cable box is concerned the only sound adjustments i can find are for

" narrow " , "wide" or " normal" (scientific atlanta explorer hdtv 8300)



Thanks very much all !


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21399409
> 
> 
> Hey Bob-Okay-when i turn the blu ray on this is what initially comes on the display: Dvd Analog DSP Main AL- cinema-- then a few seconds later this: DVD 1 PCM AL- Cinema... then a few seconds later this: DVD1 Dolby D 5.1 + NEO:6 then +PLIIX- movie.
> 
> 
> not sure what it all means,however, i agree that hdmi would be much much simpler but the dealer said because of switching issues we couldn't use hdmi-i suspect there is something wrong with this set up..
> 
> 
> the numbers on the cd cover of ARC reads :10528d ( microphone serial #) and # 137094 ( Anthem serial # )
> 
> 
> To answer Tom's question there are 5 wires going in to "6 ch" area of the av40 and a
> 
> 6th wire going into the composite area labeled dvd on the back of the av40.
> 
> 
> 
> not sure what all this means but i am calling the dealer now and ask some questions which i know will not make them happy...
> 
> 
> As far as the cable box is concerned the only sound adjustments i can find are for
> 
> " narrow " , "wide" or " normal" (scientific atlanta explorer hdtv 8300)
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks very much all !



OK, you are indeed using the "DVD" source definition -- the one you posted -- the "DVD" in that first line of info. It is starting up thinking it will use the stereo analog input jacks which may not even be cabled -- due to Auto Dig YES in the Source Setup -- thus the "Analog DSP" info. You should change the DVD Source Setup to Auto Dig NO since you DEFINITELY do not want to use those stereo analog input jacks.


Then it switches to getting a digital signal on the Coax Digital audio connection from the Blu-ray player as soon as it sees the signal on that cable.


The good news is that it appears you *ARE* getting Bitstream format digital audio over that connection from the player -- as indicated by the "DD 5.1" info. However, as I said above, the high bit rate Blu-ray formats can't be transmitted on Coax Digital audio cable, so when you play a Blu-ray disc, the audio you are actually getting is the lossy "compatibility" track (traditional DD 5.1 or DTS 5.1) that's always on Blu-ray discs for just this purpose. To get the high bit rate tracks you must either use HDMI LPCM Audio from the player or multi-channel Analog -- which means selecting the 6-CH Source input in the AVM 40.


Those numbers off the ARC case are your AVM 40 and ARC mic serial numbers. I'm surprised the ARC version is not on that label, but no matter. When you get your Windows PC set up we'll make sure you get the newest version of the ARC app.


Now, press Select once on the AVM 40 remote and confirm that your firmware version is V1.33 (in the Front Panel display).


----------------------------------


That Narrow/Wide/Normal stuff is for the ANALOG audio outputs of the cable TV box.


Unfortunately I don't use a Scientific Atlanta box so I don't know how to get you to the PCM vs. Bitstream setting for its Coax Digital audio output. Perhaps someone else here can chime in on that.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21399409
> 
> 
> Hey Bob-Okay-when i turn the blu ray on this is what initially comes on the display: Dvd Analog DSP Main AL- cinema-- then a few seconds later this: DVD 1 PCM AL- Cinema... then a few seconds later this: DVD1 Dolby D 5.1 + NEO:6 then +PLIIX- movie.
> 
> 
> not sure what it all means,however, i agree that hdmi would be much much simpler but the dealer said because of switching issues we couldn't use hdmi-i suspect there is something wrong with this set up..
> 
> 
> the numbers on the cd cover of ARC reads :10528d ( microphone serial #) and # 137094 ( Anthem serial # )
> 
> 
> To answer Tom's question there are 5 wires going in to "6 ch" area of the av40 and a
> 
> 6th wire going into the composite area labeled dvd on the back of the av40.
> 
> 
> 
> not sure what all this means but i am calling the dealer now and ask some questions which i know will not make them happy...
> 
> 
> As far as the cable box is concerned the only sound adjustments i can find are for
> 
> " narrow " , "wide" or " normal" (scientific atlanta explorer hdtv 8300)
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks very much all !



I'm guessing. No subwoofer ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I'm surprised the Neo:6 and then PLIIx Movie stuff is showing up when you use the Blu-ray player. Those are surround modes for taking a smaller number of input channels and raising it to a larger number of output speakers. Since you only have a 5.1 speaker configuration you should not be seeing those when the input is already 5.1 channels.


You would expect to see one of those when the input is 2.0 channels -- as may be the case when starting up your player. Perhaps it switched from 5.1 input to 2.0 input and you didn't mention that? The surround mode selected will be according to whatever default you have specified in Setup > Mode Presets for the "DVD" Source for the different possible audio input formats.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21399469
> 
> 
> I'm guessing. No subwoofer ?



ARC has Uploaded volume trims for a subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## arthurrubenstein

Where would i see the 2.0 input? i didn't see that...so you do not need to see the 6 ch configuration in the source as it is not using that? thanks !


----------



## arthurrubenstein

Okay i changed the auto dig : to "no" but there is also one called " AUDIO"- leave that on Dig Coax DVD? thanks.... should i have these guys put back the hdmi since the hdmi cable is already there? ( my components are downstairs in my basement and my Plasma and speakers are upstairs by the way)


----------



## arthurrubenstein

Also- do you have any idea why they didn't use the multi channel source rather than dvd?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

arthurrubenstein,


I found an old discussion of your SA 8300 box that says the setting you want is found at Settings/Audio/Digital Out. Select the Dolby Digital choice there.

--Bob


----------



## arthurrubenstein

is it possible or does it make sense that we are by passing the anthem av40 with the blu ray the way it is set up? that is what my dealer has told me in the past - that the blu ray has such good 5.1 capabilities that it is better than hdmi..and we are processing through the blu ray so to speak... does that make any sense? thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21399519
> 
> 
> Okay i changed the auto dig : to "no" but there is also one called " AUDIO"- leave that on Dig Coax DVD? thanks.... should i have these guys put back the hdmi since the hdmi cable is already there? ( my components are downstairs in my basement and my Plasma and speakers are upstairs by the way)



I think now would be an excellent chance for you to spend some quality time with that AVM 40 Manual you just downloaded to get familiar with the cabling choices and Setup options.


A lot of the questions you have now regarding basic setup like this are well covered in that manual.


The Audio: Dig Coax DVD setting is the one that's selecting that Coax Digital audio jack for audio input when you use the "DVD" Source.


To get best audio from your Blu-ray player, you are going to need to use HDMI audio (which you can do in the "DVD" definition if you'd like) or you will need to start using the "6-CH" Source to use that multi-channel analog cabling.


I think you should try with HDMI and see if you run into whatever problem the dealer thought there was with HDMI. Note that when the playback video or audio formats change a new "HDMI handshake" will happen to reconfigure the data going on that HDMI cable. This takes about 2 seconds or so EACH TIME there's a format change. This is perfectly normal when using HDMI. Expect some video flashing and loss of audio while this is happening.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21399568
> 
> 
> is it possible or does it make sense that we are by passing the anthem av40 with the blu ray the way it is set up? that is what my dealer has told me in the past - that the blu ray has such good 5.1 capabilities that it is better than hdmi..and we are processing through the blu ray so to speak... does that make any sense? thanks



He likely has HDMI video running from the Blu-ray player directly to the TV, thus bypassing the video path in the AVM 40.


It's not clear to me that this will get you better video. The AVM 40 does not process HDMI video -- it is just "pass through".


If you find you really want to cable HDMI video directly to the display, but still use HDMI audio, you might consider a new Blu-ray player like the Oppo BDP-93 that has two HDMI outputs for just such a case.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21399480
> 
> 
> ARC has Uploaded volume trims for a subwoofer.
> 
> --Bob



ArthurRubenstein has not responded to the question.


I was trying to understand why there were only 5 audio connections as stated earlier.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21399519
> 
> 
> Okay i changed the auto dig : to "no" but there is also one called " AUDIO"- leave that on Dig Coax DVD? thanks.... should i have these guys put back the hdmi since the hdmi cable is already there? ( my components are downstairs in my basement and my Plasma and speakers are upstairs by the way)



AR

Please explain this more clearly as I see a component that might be your Blue Ray player in the lower right hand side of your cabinet below the center speaker in your system photo.


Can you list separately each of your components (Make and Model)

List the connections to each of the components as they are now

The components location relative to the speakers and the video display.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Ah! Good point.


arthurrubenstein,

The multi-channel audio cabling from the Blu-ray player -- if you ever choose to use it -- should have SIX analog audio cables. In addition to that Coax cable connected to the DVD Digtal audio input. EIther you miscounted or you are missing a cable.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21399409
> 
> 
> Hey Bob-Okay-when i turn the blu ray on this is what initially comes on the display: Dvd Analog DSP Main AL- cinema-- then a few seconds later this: DVD 1 PCM AL- Cinema... then a few seconds later this: DVD1 Dolby D 5.1 + NEO:6 then +PLIIX- movie.
> 
> 
> not sure what it all means,however, i agree that hdmi would be much much simpler but the dealer said because of switching issues we couldn't use hdmi-i suspect there is something wrong with this set up..
> 
> 
> the numbers on the cd cover of ARC reads :10528d ( microphone serial #) and # 137094 ( Anthem serial # )
> 
> 
> To answer Tom's question *there are 5 wires going in to "6 ch" area of the av40 and a
> 
> 6th wire going into the composite area labeled dvd on the back of the av40.*
> 
> not sure what all this means but i am calling the dealer now and ask some questions which i know will not make them happy...
> 
> 
> As far as the cable box is concerned the only sound adjustments i can find are for
> 
> " narrow " , "wide" or " normal" (scientific atlanta explorer hdtv 8300)
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks very much all !



There should be 6 cables coming from the br player's 'analog out' connected to the six inputs on the Anthem's '6 ch in'.

Where on the br player does sixth cable (that goes into the composite area) originate?

Is it coming from the 'analog out' connections on the br player? Or from a composite out on the br player? There is really no reason I can think of to have a composite video connection going from the br player to the Anthem.


Which speaker outputs are the cables connected to on the br player?

Into which speaker inputs are they connected on the Anthem's '6 ch in'.?



I really think Bob is correct when he says you should use the hdmi connection from the br player to your avm-40.

Fewer cables. Easier setup.

With the proper settings in your br player and the avm-40 -such as using as many specific settings rather than 'auto'- the handshaking problems will be minimized.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21399928
> 
> 
> There should be 6 cables coming from the br player's 'analog out' connected to the six inputs on the Anthem's '6 ch in'.
> 
> Where on the br player does sixth cable (that goes into the composite area) originate?
> 
> Is it coming from the 'analog out' connections on the br player? Or from a composite out on the br player? There is really no reason I can think of to have a composite video connection going from the br player to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Which speaker outputs are the cables connected to on the br player?
> 
> Into which speaker inputs are they connected on the Anthem's '6 ch in'.?
> 
> 
> 
> I really think Bob is correct when he says you should use the hdmi connection from the br player to your avm-40.
> 
> Fewer cables. Easier setup.
> 
> With the proper settings in your br player and the avm-40 -such as using as many specific settings rather than 'auto'- the handshaking problems will be minimized.
> 
> 
> Tom



Athurrubenstein


Please answer the previous questions above so we can advise properly what you should do to correct your problems.


Do you have a sub woofer ?


Please explain the location of your components you say are in your basement as I see a component that might be your Blue Ray player in the lower right hand side of your cabinet below the center speaker in your system photo.


Can you list separately each of your components (Make and Model)

List the connections to each of the components as they are now

The components location relative to the speakers and the video display.


Where on the BD player does sixth cable (that goes into the composite area of the AVM40) originate?


----------



## arthurrubenstein

Okay- i missed a lot---thanks for the discussion--- very enlightening....

1- i do have a subwoofer--it is a JL audio fathom f112-

2- the blu ray player is in fact in the cabinet to the right of the center speaker( good eyes) - it is a pioneer bdp-09 fd


All of the other following components are downstairs --directly underneath:

3- Anthem av40

4- Anthem statement A5

5- Flash 4 model ( kDS/key digital)

6-Control 4

7-Cisco slm 2008 ( router?)

8-cable box scientific atlanta explorer 8300



---There are definitely 5 wires going in to the av 40 6 channel area with no wire for the "sur" L-


---There is an HDMI wire lying loose that was previously used for the pioneer which has the other end upstairs sitting in the back of the blu ray- not connected.


to be cont'd...


----------



## arthurrubenstein

first photo is the back of the blu -ray player-

2nd photo is back of av40-with dvd and tv "digital in" apparently


----------



## arthurrubenstein

this is the back of the anthem av40 of the 6 channel input area


----------



## arthurrubenstein

I forgot to mention i also have an ipod underneath my plasma in the cabinet with i believe wires going in the back of the anthem av40 as can be seen in pic # 2 above in the digital input area...



thanks for listening and helping!


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21399928
> 
> 
> There should be 6 cables coming from the br player's 'analog out' connected to the six inputs on the Anthem's '6 ch in'.
> 
> Where on the br player does sixth cable (that goes into the composite area) originate?
> 
> Is it coming from the 'analog out' connections on the br player? Or from a composite out on the br player? There is really no reason I can think of to have a composite video connection going from the br player to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Which speaker outputs are the cables connected to on the br player?
> 
> Into which speaker inputs are they connected on the Anthem's '6 ch in'.?
> 
> 
> 
> I really think Bob is correct when he says you should use the hdmi connection from the br player to your avm-40.
> 
> Fewer cables. Easier setup.
> 
> With the proper settings in your br player and the avm-40 -such as using as many specific settings rather than 'auto'- the handshaking problems will be minimized.
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom- the 6th wire comes from the digital out of the blu ray that goes in to the digital( i previously said composite- sorry) input on the anthem..(i am really confused by all of this stuff-) Thanks for all of your input. appreciate it..


----------



## thestewman

Here is what I see so far.


Anyone else that sees additional please post your ideas or thoughts


The Anthem AVM 40, 6 Channel analog input is missing the Surround left input cable. The installer may not be using it.


Most likely, because the installer is using the GREEN digital audio output cable from the Pioneer BDP-09FD that is going to the AVM 40 Digital audio input.


Looks like there is a HDMI cable from the Pioneer BDP-09 HDMI out to the video display for BD/DVD video.


There is an unkmown source for the green wire connected to the Anthem AVM40 composite video input.

Could this be going to the Video Display for Cable video ?

_If_ the above is true the cable video is not 1080i and the Blue ray audio is the lossy 5.1


I would hesitate to change the AVM 40 source selections as the installer is using the RS232 port for the remote input and this may change the controller..


Bob P and anyone else ??


Stew


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21401287
> 
> 
> Here is what I see so far.
> 
> 
> Anyone else that sees additional please post your ideas or thoughts
> 
> 
> The Anthem AVM 40, 6 Channel analog input is missing the Surround left input cable. The installer may not be using it.
> 
> 
> Most likely, because the installer is using the GREEN digital audio output cable from the Pioneer BDP-09FD that is going to the AVM 40 Digital audio input.
> 
> 
> Looks like there is a HDMI cable from the Pioneer BDP-09 HDMI out to the video display for BD/DVD video.
> 
> 
> There is an unkmown source for the green wire connected to the Anthem AVM40 composite video input.
> 
> Could this be going to the Video Display for Cable video ?
> 
> _If_ the above is true the cable video is not 1080i and the Blue ray audio is the lossy 5.1
> 
> 
> I would hesitate to change the AVM 40 source selections as the installer is using the RS232 port for the remote input and this may change the controller..
> 
> 
> Bob P and anyone else ??
> 
> 
> Stew



Stew,


I think the installer canibalized the green LSurr cable to use as the digital coax connection.


I don't know if the rs-232 connection is for remote, or if he just keeps the cable connected for ARC runs. Arthur??


Arthur,

I don't see any video feeds going into the avm-40. Where do you have the 'main hdmi out' cable connected?

Do you have the hdmi out from the br player connected directly to your display?-forgive me if you answered these before, I'm just trying to get a handle on the set-up.


If your pioneer br player can internally decode the lossless/hi-def audio codecs and send them out thru the 'analog outs'(and I bet it can) then take the green cable from the digital coax connection and use it for the LSurr connection.

The digital coax is fine for the lossy audio, but can not pass DTS-MA or Dolby HD. But the analog connections can pass the good audio.


But again, the hdmi can pass all the hi-def audio and video, and will allow you to rid of alot of those cables. The back of your components reminds me of the scene in 'Raiders' when Indy looks down into the tomb with all the snakes.










The back of my shelf doesn't look much better, but I have used hdmi where ever I can to help reduce the clutter.


I may be wrong, but I bet you can get it to work with hdmi with the right set-up and the latest firmware for your bluray.


Bob has helped us all at one time or another to get things running correctly.


Maybe you should have your installer join in the conversation here and explain what he was thinking when he set your system up.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21401477
> 
> 
> Stew,
> 
> 
> I think the installer canibalized the green LSurr cable to use as the digital coax connection.
> 
> 
> I don't know if the rs-232 connection is for remote, or if he just keeps the cable connected for ARC runs. Arthur??
> 
> 
> Arthur,
> 
> I don't see any video feeds going into the avm-40. Where do you have the 'main hdmi out' cable connected?
> 
> Do you have the hdmi out from the br player connected directly to your display?-forgive me if you answered these before, I'm just trying to get a handle on the set-up.
> 
> 
> If your pioneer br player can internally decode the lossless/hi-def audio codecs and send them out thru the 'analog outs'(and I bet it can) then take the green cable from the digital coax connection and use it for the LSurr connection.
> 
> The digital coax is fine for the lossy audio, but can not pass DTS-MA or Dolby HD. But the analog connections can pass the good audio.
> 
> 
> But again, the hdmi can pass all the hi-def audio and video, and will allow you to rid of alot of those cables. The back of your components reminds me of the scene in 'Raiders' when Indy looks down into the tomb with all the snakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of my shelf doesn't look much better, but I have used hdmi where ever I can to help reduce the clutter.
> 
> 
> I may be wrong, but I bet you can get it to work with hdmi with the right set-up and the latest firmware for your bluray.
> 
> 
> Bob has helped us all at one time or another to get things running correctly.
> 
> 
> Maybe you should have your installer join in the conversation here and explain what he was thinking when he set your system up.
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom


Your probably right about the use of the green cable. But, an analog audio cable is not the correct cable. it should be 75-ohm coaxial to carry the digital signal.


If this was my installer I would be livid. The cables should not only be connected correctly, which may or may not be the case here, but they should be be routed and fastened into some type of wiring harness to present an orderly professional appearance.


And the composite video input to the Anthem? What is that ?

If the installer had problems with the HDMI from the cable box then he should have gotten the correct three component video cables to replace the HDMI so the user would at least have HD video via cable.

Or maybe the video display has 2 HDMI inputs and the installer also is running a separate HDMI from the cable box to the display.

AR has not stated there is another HDMI cable.


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21401287
> 
> 
> Here is what I see so far.
> 
> 
> Anyone else that sees additional please post your ideas or thoughts
> 
> 
> The Anthem AVM 40, 6 Channel analog input is missing the Surround left input cable. The installer may not be using it.
> 
> 
> Most likely, because the installer is using the GREEN digital audio output cable from the Pioneer BDP-09FD that is going to the AVM 40 Digital audio input.
> 
> 
> Looks like there is a HDMI cable from the Pioneer BDP-09 HDMI out to the video display for BD/DVD video.
> 
> 
> There is an unkmown source for the green wire connected to the Anthem AVM40 composite video input.
> 
> Could this be going to the Video Display for Cable video ?
> 
> _If_ the above is true the cable video is not 1080i and the Blue ray audio is the lossy 5.1
> 
> 
> I would hesitate to change the AVM 40 source selections as the installer is using the RS232 port for the remote input and this may change the controller..
> 
> 
> Bob P and anyone else ??
> 
> 
> Stew



Hi Stew- thanks for the input- i believe the green wire connected to the composite video input on the anthem avm 40 is the for the ipod.

There is an hdmi cable connected to the blu ray that, i think you are correct, is going directly to the plasma.


I wasn't aware of, until now, that the sound from both the cable and the blu ray is apparently wired by non hdmi cable- not sure why they did that with the cable as well...could this be why both the sound from the cable and the blu ray is lacking? thanks! Arthur


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21401724
> 
> 
> Tom
> 
> 
> Your probably right about the use of the green cable. But, an analog audio cable is not the correct cable. it should be 75-ohm coaxial to carry the digital signal.
> 
> 
> If this was my installer I would be livid. The cables should not only be connected correctly, which may or may not be the case here, but they should be be routed and fastened into some type of wiring harness to present an orderly professional appearance.
> 
> 
> And the composite video input to the Anthem? What is that ?
> 
> If the installer had problems with the HDMI from the cable box then he should have gotten the correct three component video cables to replace the HDMI so the user would at least have HD video via cable.
> 
> Or maybe the video display has 2 HDMI inputs and the installer also is running a separate HDMI from the cable box to the display.
> 
> AR has not stated there is another HDMI cable.



Hey Tom- there is an hdmi cable coming from the cable box that i think is going to the plasma directly- i believe- it is not so easy tracing these wires....i will take a pic to show you what a mess these guys left behind the components downstairs- ( in there defense i did tell them i am eventually re-doing my basement and i think they were not concerned with neatness) thanks Arthur


----------



## arthurrubenstein

the back of the audio rack


----------



## arthurrubenstein

another pic of back of rack


----------



## JimP

We ought to start a thread where we post jpgs of our wiring mess. Winner gets some wiring ties.


----------



## arthurrubenstein

i agree







but i bet most didn't pay as much as i did for a mess like mine..


----------



## arthurrubenstein

Just spoke to the installer/ dealer and he said he was aware that the 6th wire was missing from the input in the anthem avm40 and said there was a reason but wouldn't tell me why ..?? He was angry at me that I wasn't happy with the sound and said cable sound is always awful and the blu ray sounded good to him - i told him i want to have hdmi for cable and blu ray and he Said he had to gather his thoughts and will get back to me .. He also said he was aware that the source for the blu ray was the DVD on the anthem - He also said the wire for the digital in is in fact 75 ohm - and is the correct cable -


Any thoughts? Thanks for pointing out all of the above to me ! Arthur


----------



## stanger89

Bob and all, I don't suppose you could take a look at my post from a day or two ago? I just got my 50V last week and am having a bit of trouble with HDMI2. Details here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post21392903 


Thanks


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21402271
> 
> 
> i agree
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i bet most didn't pay as much as i did for a mess like mine..



Arthur,


this is not meant to be a 'nanner nanner'







, but here are pictures of the back of my bluray player and D2 using hdmi connections.


I may have fewer components than you, but notice the lack of clutter and simplicity.


Glad to hear he used the correct cable for the digital coax connection, but I'm very interested to hear his explanation for not connecting the LS analog cable.


Tom


Anthem D2; Anthem A5; Oppo bdp-93; Ayre CX7-Emp; Dish vip-722 DVR


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/21402608
> 
> 
> Bob and all, I don't suppose you could take a look at my post from a day or two ago? I just got my 50V last week and am having a bit of trouble with HDMI2. Details here:
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post21392903
> 
> 
> Thanks



Not familiar with the xbox 360 but,

Try using any of the other HDMI ports 1 to 4 from that HDMI board ?

Using the same source settings you have setup for HDMI input for port 5

Just change the scaler input to the new HDMI port number

If none of the 1- 4 ports work then try another port other than #5 from the bottom board

Maybe the upper board needs to be reseated.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21402497
> 
> 
> Just spoke to the installer/ dealer and he said he was aware that the 6th wire was missing from the input in the anthem avm40 and said there was a reason but wouldn't tell me why ..?? He was angry at me that I wasn't happy with the sound and said cable sound is always awful and the blu ray sounded good to him - i told him i want to have hdmi for cable and blu ray and he Said he had to gather his thoughts and will get back to me .. He also said he was aware that the source for the blu ray was the DVD on the anthem - He also said the wire for the digital in is in fact 75 ohm - and is the correct cable -
> 
> 
> Any thoughts? Thanks for pointing out all of the above to me ! Arthur



Hi Arthur. Sorry to hear that you are going through so much with your dealer. Sounds like to me, your dealer doesn't have your best interest at heart. Sounds like your dealer is trying to make some bucks and keep it moving. This statement "cable sound is always awful" is very untrue. I have Verizon FIOS, and it sounds terrific in my setup. And of all statements, this statement "he was aware that the 6th wire was missing from the input in the anthem avm40 and said there was a reason but wouldn't tell me why ..??" is enough to say that you are dealing with the wrong dealer. And for the life of me, I can't figure out why your dealer would not connect your LS. Have you checked to see if there are other Anthem Dealers in your area? If so, it might be wise to get someone else to come out and check out your setup because it doesn't look like you are going to get much farther with your current dealer other than your wallet becoming lighter.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Arthur. Sorry to hear that you are going through so much with your dealer. Sounds like to me, your dealer doesn't have your best interest at heart. Sounds like your dealer is trying to make some bucks and keep it moving. This statement "cable sound is always awful" is very untrue. I have Verizon FIOS, and it sounds terrific in my setup. And of all statements, this statement "he was aware that the 6th wire was missing from the input in the anthem avm40 and said there was a reason but wouldn't tell me why ..??" is enough to say that you are dealing with the wrong dealer. And for the life of me, I can't figure out why your dealer would not connect your LS. Have you checked to see if there are other Anthem Dealers in your area? If so, it might be wise to get someone else to come out and check out your setup because it doesn't look like you are going to get much farther with your current dealer other than your wallet becoming lighter.



Good points and a call to Anthem about the dealer might be warranted as well.

John


----------



## arthurrubenstein

it was one of the strangest conversations i have ever had with him- i had to laugh during our conversation when he said he wouldn't tell me why....very strange...makes me wonder now...but i didn't press him on it...because i am hoping they come back and fix everything .... i dont think he is all that happy that i am educating myself in this area ( albeit slowly and minimally) ...i have spent so much money with them that i feel i am stuck with them ... can't really afford at this point to pay someone else to come in and correct any mistakes they may have made... although if i must i will..thanks ... Arthur


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> it was one of the strangest conversations i have ever had with him- i had to laugh during our conversation when he said he wouldn't tell me why....very strange...makes me wonder now...but i didn't press him on it...because i am hoping they come back and fix everything .... i dont think he is all that happy that i am educating myself in this area ( albeit slowly and minimally) ...i have spent so much money with them that i feel i am stuck with them ... can't really afford at this point to pay someone else to come in and correct any mistakes they may have made... although if i must i will..thanks ... Arthur



Knowledge is power









John


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21402644
> 
> 
> Arthur,
> 
> 
> this is not meant to be a 'nanner nanner'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but here are pictures of the back of my bluray player and D2 using hdmi connections.
> 
> 
> I may have fewer components than you, but notice the lack of clutter and simplicity.
> 
> 
> Glad to hear he used the correct cable for the digital coax connection, but I'm very interested to hear his explanation for not connecting the LS analog cable.
> 
> 
> Tom
> 
> 
> Anthem D2; Anthem A5; Oppo bdp-93; Ayre CX7-Emp; Dish vip-722 DVR



Tom- that i imagine is what it should look like (your set up)... you can perhaps tell from my pictures that the audio rack in the closet is backwards so that when you walk in you see the rear of the components...the wires may be too short to turn it around the correct way- but that is how they set it up... crazy


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21403173
> 
> 
> it was one of the strangest conversations i have ever had with him- i had to laugh during our conversation when he said he wouldn't tell me why....very strange...makes me wonder now...but i didn't press him on it...because i am hoping they come back and fix everything .... i dont think he is all that happy that i am educating myself in this area ( albeit slowly and minimally) ...i have spent so much money with them that i feel i am stuck with them ... can't really afford at this point to pay someone else to come in and correct any mistakes they may have made... although if i must i will..thanks ... Arthur



Sad and an unpleasant experience. You have excellent equipment which should give you a good sounding and viewing experience. Keep the pressure on the dealer to make it right.

I see in the latest photo you posted he has all the sound outputs connected to your amp inputs so you should be able to hear 5.1.


Describe or provide a photo on how your cable box is connected.

If the installer did not run a separate audio feed you cannot get 5.1 with the HDMI going directly to the plasma display.


I would suggest from your latest photos along with cleaning up the wire mess he provided on the installation you have him cleanup the expensive flat wire speaker cables he has dangling everywhere. The speaker cable placement can be critical to good sound.


Please follow the advice you received about connecting one of the front speaker cables to your center speaker, putting your ear close to each driver to ensure you can hear sound from ALL the drivers.

Get a PC laptop, a Radio Shack Sound Level Meter and read how to do ARC.

It is pretty easy. During the setup you will learn more about your system and be able to hear each speaker individually.


Let us know how it works out.


Stew


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21403191
> 
> 
> Tom- that i imagine is what it should look like (your set up)... you can perhaps tell from my pictures that the audio rack in the closet is backwards so that when you walk in you see the rear of the components...the wires may be too short to turn it around the correct way- but that is how they set it up... crazy



Looks like you should be able to have them at least turn it 45 degrees so you can see the front


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/21392903
> 
> 
> So I got my new 50V a couple days ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been going pretty well, got most of my sources set up, ARC run and nothing seems wrong with it's results, though I'm going to have to play with it's settings and some mic placement (think I had my mic a little low).
> 
> 
> There is one question/problem though. Last night I was trying to set up my Xbox 360 on HDMI 2 and was running into trouble. In a nutshell I couldn't get a picture unless I swapped it to HDMI 5 (which I had set up for my SageTV extender) and back. And after that, I tried changing the Xbox to 1080p on HDMI 2 and lost the picture.
> 
> 
> So I guess I'm wondering/hoping there's some setting I'm missing. It seems like there's some handshake issue on the HDMI 2 port, that causes or prevents the connected devices from initializing/reinitializing their HDMI outputs?
> 
> 
> For now I've moved my Xbox to HDMI 5 where it's working fine, and my SageTV extender to HDMI 3.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts? Unfortunately HDMI, video, output, "no signal" are such common terms a search doesn't seem to yield any relevant info.



Odds are you just happened to have a bad mechanical fit between that particular HDMI cable plug and the HDMI 2 socket. Perhaps the weight of the cable was shifting the plug in the socket a bit.


I wouldn't worry about it unless you discover that other devices are ALSO having problems on HDMI 2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21402497
> 
> 
> Just spoke to the installer/ dealer and he said he was aware that the 6th wire was missing from the input in the anthem avm40 and said there was a reason but wouldn't tell me why ..?? He was angry at me that I wasn't happy with the sound and said cable sound is always awful and the blu ray sounded good to him - i told him i want to have hdmi for cable and blu ray and he Said he had to gather his thoughts and will get back to me .. He also said he was aware that the source for the blu ray was the DVD on the anthem - He also said the wire for the digital in is in fact 75 ohm - and is the correct cable -
> 
> 
> Any thoughts? Thanks for pointing out all of the above to me ! Arthur



Arthur,

There is nothing wrong with your current Coax Digital audio feed from the cable TV set top box, presuming that set top box is set to use Bitstream audio on that cable as we discussed.


The audio available on cable TV programs never includes the high bit rate tracks you find on Blu-ray discs. The Coax Digital audio feed from the cable set top box carries the IDENTICAL digital audio signal you would get using HDMI.


Since you can't find the setting in the cable box to insure it's Coax Digital audio output is set to allow Dolby Digital bitstreams, the thing to do is watch some cable TV and switch channels, particularly in the HDTV channels while checking to see what the AVM 40 says it is receiving for audio input. If you see Dolby Digital 5.1 audio coming from *ANY* cable TV channel then the Coax output of that cable box is already set up correctly. If you only ever see stereo PCM input for EVERY channel, then you need to find that setting in the cable box and change it.


---------------------------------------


There is actually a good reason to use Coax or Optical Digital audio from a cable box even when you are using HDMI for video from it. That's because many cable TV set top boxes have a poor implementation of HDMI and do the HDMI handshake in two steps. First for just video, and then for both video and audio. The result is that there is a few seconds delay for audio to start after the video starts. This is particularly annoying if you have the cable box set to output "native" resolution, where the video resolution it sends out tracks whatever is coming in on the channel you are currently watching (480i, 720p, or 1080i).


Using Coax or Optical Digital audio avoids that audio startup delay each time the video changes.

--Bob


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21403404
> 
> 
> Arthur,
> 
> There is nothing wrong with your current Coax Digital audio feed from the cable TV set top box, presuming that set top box is set to use Bitstream audio on that cable as we discussed.
> 
> 
> The audio available on cable TV programs never includes the high bit rate tracks you find on Blu-ray discs. The Coax Digital audio feed from the cable set top box carries the IDENTICAL digital audio signal you would get using HDMI.
> 
> 
> Since you can't find the setting in the cable box to insure it's Coax Digital audio output is set to allow Dolby Digital bitstreams, the thing to do is watch some cable TV and switch channels, particularly in the HDTV channels while checking to see what the AVM 40 says it is receiving for audio input. If you see Dolby Digital 5.1 audio coming from *ANY* cable TV channel then the Coax output of that cable box is already set up correctly. If you only ever see stereo PCM input for EVERY channel, then you need to find that setting in the cable box and change it.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> There is actually a good reason to use Coax or Optical Digital audio from a cable box even when you are using HDMI for video from it. That's because many cable TV set top boxes have a poor implementation of HDMI and do the HDMI handshake in two steps. First for just video, and then for both video and audio. The result is that there is a few seconds delay for audio to start after the video starts. This is particularly annoying if you have the cable box set to output "native" resolution, where the video resolution it sends out tracks whatever is coming in on the channel you are currently watching (480i, 720p, or 1080i).
> 
> 
> Using Coax or Optical Digital audio avoids that audio startup delay each time the video changes.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob-then i will leave the cable tv alone...i will do as you suggest and look for dolby digital 5.1 when playing cable...the dealer/installer said what you did concerning the hdmi issues with cable audio... so he got that right...which is good... when i talk with the guy again i will ask again why he didnt utilize the LS on the connection to the av40 but i guess it wont really matter if we go back to hdmi... i suspect something went wrong when they initially connected the 6 channel and then felt they had to change it.... and came up with that solution... which is why he probably didn't want to tell me the reason...but who knows?anyway thanks

Arthur


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21403173
> 
> 
> it was one of the strangest conversations i have ever had with him- i had to laugh during our conversation when he said he wouldn't tell me why....very strange...makes me wonder now...but i didn't press him on it...because i am hoping they come back and fix everything .... i dont think he is all that happy that i am educating myself in this area ( albeit slowly and minimally) ...i have spent so much money with them that i feel i am stuck with them ... can't really afford at this point to pay someone else to come in and correct any mistakes they may have made... although if i must i will..thanks ... Arthur



John is absolutly right.

Knowledge is power.


You can find most of the knowledge you need in the manuals that came with your equipment. Some manuals are better than others. The Anthem manuals are among the best.


The better av companies also have quality tech help on line or by phone. These companies are the exception to the rule, but Anthem, Oppo and SVS are the ones that come to mind. Because of their exceptional customer/tech service I will continue to patronize these companies, and recommend them to freinds.


"How to'' videos for many things you would need to know about hooking up your system yourself can even be found on YouTube.


There are also many threads, similar to this one, on AVS for the different components.


I bet there is someone you work with or know who has been bitten by the av bug and would be willing to help you.


Your installer should be explaining what he is doing and why he is doing it, and you should be watching him so that you can troubleshoot problems when the occur. After all you are paying for these lessons. Take advantage and ask questions when you don't understand something. He should be happy that you are taking an interest and be happy to teach you as much as he can.

The first time he 'wouldn't tell me why' would be the last time he would be in my house.


When you look at the back of your equipment rack it can be overwhelming if you don't know whats going on, but if you take it one component at a time and follow the manual's diagrams for connections and settings, its really pretty straightforward.


Look, if I can do it anyone can.










Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21402644
> 
> 
> Arthur,
> 
> 
> this is not meant to be a 'nanner nanner'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but here are pictures of the back of my bluray player and D2 using hdmi connections.
> 
> 
> I may have fewer components than you, but notice the lack of clutter and simplicity.
> 
> 
> Glad to hear he used the correct cable for the digital coax connection, but I'm very interested to hear his explanation for not connecting the LS analog cable.
> 
> 
> Tom
> 
> 
> Anthem D2; Anthem A5; Oppo bdp-93; Ayre CX7-Emp; Dish vip-722 DVR



Arthurrubenstein


OK It is my turn to show my pride and joy. Nine components are controlled by the Anthem D2v. Five are by HDMI. There are 3 units which have analog direct inputs and one 6 channel analog setup.

All done by myself and I am not in the industry.

My priority was to have it neat and easily accessible for any changes which have been pretty often since I like to pursue better and better sound.


----------



## CycloneMike

Arthur,


Where do you live? There may be a member here who is willing to give you a hand by visting your home and helping that way. If you lived in the Kansas City area, I would be more than willing to stop by and give you a hand.


One thing most of us members enjoy is to be able to talk shop any time with other members, both online and, if possible, in person.


Take Care,


Mike


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Arthur,
> 
> 
> Where do you live? There may be a member here who is willing to give you a hand by visting your home and helping that way. If you lived in the Kansas City area, I would be more than willing to stop by and give you a hand.
> 
> 
> One thing most of us members enjoy is to be able to talk shop any time with other members, both online and, if possible, in person.
> 
> 
> Take Care,
> 
> 
> Mike



Same for me in San Diego. I'd love to get my hands on your setup!


----------



## [email protected]!

Hi,


why give the Oppo 95 more handshake problems than my other player Sony 5000ES? The Sony give no problem at all.


When the Oppo change picture resolution it takes 1 or 2 minutes that i see a normal picture on screen.


I was testing picture quality with oppo and the anthem d2v with sd material. I think that the Oppo to set on 576I and the anthem on 1080p-50hz (is PAL 50 or 60hz?) give me the best picture quality.


Is it better to set the anthem on "auto" or set on "1920x1080P-50hz or 60hz" ?


thanks, martin.


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike* /forum/post/21405760
> 
> 
> Arthur,
> 
> 
> Where do you live? There may be a member here who is willing to give you a hand by visting your home and helping that way. If you lived in the Kansas City area, I would be more than willing to stop by and give you a hand.
> 
> 
> One thing most of us members enjoy is to be able to talk shop any time with other members, both online and, if possible, in person.
> 
> 
> Take Care,
> 
> 
> Mike



Hi Mike - very nice of you - i am far from you though ...live in long island New York unfortunately....I really appreciate all the advice and suggestions i have received here...are there any other new york members on here?


someone suggested I can get a sound meter from radio shack to run the arc? Did I understand that correctly? I do not have a laptop pc. Thanks again.....Arthur


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/21405967
> 
> 
> Same for me in San Diego. I'd love to get my hands on your setup!




Thanks Mookie.....


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21405025
> 
> 
> John is absolutly right.
> 
> Knowledge is power.
> 
> 
> You can find most of the knowledge you need in the manuals that came with your equipment. Some manuals are better than others. The Anthem manuals are among the best.
> 
> 
> The better av companies also have quality tech help on line or by phone. These companies are the exception to the rule, but Anthem, Oppo and SVS are the ones that come to mind. Because of their exceptional customer/tech service I will continue to patronize these companies, and recommend them to freinds.
> 
> 
> "How to'' videos for many things you would need to know about hooking up your system yourself can even be found on YouTube.
> 
> 
> There are also many threads, similar to this one, on AVS for the different components.
> 
> 
> I bet there is someone you work with or know who has been bitten by the av bug and would be willing to help you.
> 
> 
> Your installer should be explaining what he is doing and why he is doing it, and you should be watching him so that you can troubleshoot problems when the occur. After all you are paying for these lessons. Take advantage and ask questions when you don't understand something. He should be happy that you are taking an interest and be happy to teach you as much as he can.
> 
> The first time he 'wouldn't tell me why' would be the last time he would be in my house.
> 
> 
> When you look at the back of your equipment rack it can be overwhelming if you don't know whats going on, but if you take it one component at a time and follow the manual's diagrams for connections and settings, its really pretty straightforward.
> 
> 
> Look, if I can do it anyone can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Hey Tom- thanks for the inspiration... You are correct - the thing is with this dealer he has made it clear that he wants me to leave it all to him...But i should have paid more attention all along...I will from this point on... Thanks

Arthur


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21405338
> 
> 
> Arthurrubenstein
> 
> 
> OK It is my turn to show my pride and joy. Nine components are controlled by the Anthem D2v. Five are by HDMI. There are 3 units which have analog direct inputs and one 6 channel analog setup.
> 
> All done by myself and I am not in the industry.
> 
> My priority was to have it neat and easily accessible for any changes which have been pretty often since I like to pursue better and better sound.



Stew,


Sweet!! Nice setup. You should be proud.

And you still have your reel to reel. Far out.


Great example of what can be accomplished with thoughtful planning.

An obvious labor of love.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21406678
> 
> 
> Hey Tom- thanks for the inspiration... You are correct - *the thing is with this dealer he has made it clear that he wants me to leave it all to him*...But i should have paid more attention all along...I will from this point on... Thanks
> 
> Arthur



So, does he at least let you fill out and sign the checks, or does he want you to leave that to him also??










Tom


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21406678
> 
> 
> Hey Tom- thanks for the inspiration... You are correct - the thing is with this dealer he has made it clear that he wants me to leave it all to him...But i should have paid more attention all along...I will from this point on... Thanks
> 
> Arthur



"he wants me to leave it all to him" That's not a good position to be in. You see where that has gotten you so far. Take your manual out and read it. It's really not hard. Before I went to listen to the D2, I had read the manual from beginning to end. When I went in to listen to it, the salesman was telling me about it and then he realized that I knew more about the D2 than he did. He said you know what, you know more about this than I do. So, I'm going to leave you in the room with it. His only request was that I didn't change anything in the menus. So, it was me and the D2 for about 2 hours, and I went through every menu option and understood how they had it setup. So, when I did make the purchase, I pretty much knew everything about it. Like they say "Knowledge is Power". Do yourself a favor and educate yourself on the equipment that you have. After all, we are going to be able to only help but so much. You are going to have to dig in and try to figure some things out too. You will appreciate it in the end.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Arthur,

You are reading a "tweaking" thread -- basically full of Anthem owners who like to do this stuff themselves. So of course there's a bias here towards doing it yourself.


There are plenty of good dealers out there -- both storefront and custom installers -- who can set things up right, but if you've gotten frustrated enough to find this thread and dive in, then that's probably a sign it is time for you to get into this stuff yourself. With your dealer's assistance if you like, but with YOU in charge. And that means you need to do some learning.


--------------------------------------


An SPL (Sound Pressure Level) meter is not a substitute for the Windows PC you will need to do your own ARC setup or to install new firmware versions in your Anthem as they become available.


An SPL meter is a good thing to have. You use it for basic setting of speaker volumes and checking those volumes if you think there is a problem. It measures volume in decibels (dB) by listening over a wide range of frequencies. You use it with the sort of test "noise" tones that are produced by Setup > Level Calibration in the Anthem. Just about everyone uses an inexpensive, digital readout, meter from Radio Shack. You certainly do *NOT* need an expensive SPL meter. However, I just checked their web site, and the popular Radio Shack version appears to be out of stock at the moment.











Here's a link showing it on Radio Shack in the UK:

http://www.radioshackuk.co.uk/RadioS...nd-Level-Meter 


There are some SPL meters showing on Amazon, but I don't have experience with those.

--Bob


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21406996
> 
> 
> So, does he at least let you fill out and sign the checks, or does he want you to leave that to him also??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



very funny....point well taken...


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21407624
> 
> 
> "he wants me to leave it all to him" That's not a good position to be in. You see where that has gotten you so far. Take your manual out and read it. It's really not hard. Before I went to listen to the D2, I had read the manual from beginning to end. When I went in to listen to it, the salesman was telling me about it and then he realized that I knew more about the D2 than he did. He said you know what, you know more about this than I do. So, I'm going to leave you in the room with it. His only request was that I didn't change anything in the menus. So, it was me and the D2 for about 2 hours, and I went through every menu option and understood how they had it setup. So, when I did make the purchase, I pretty much knew everything about it. Like they say "Knowledge is Power". Do yourself a favor and educate yourself on the equipment that you have. After all, we are going to be able to only help but so much. You are going to have to dig in and try to figure some things out too. You will appreciate it in the end.



agreed.....thanks....


----------



## mookie b

Are a lot of people planning on doing the 3D upgrade? Just curious...


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21409647
> 
> 
> Arthur,
> 
> You are reading a "tweaking" thread -- basically full of Anthem owners who like to do this stuff themselves. So of course there's a bias here towards doing it yourself.
> 
> 
> There are plenty of good dealers out there -- both storefront and custom installers -- who can set things up right, but if you've gotten frustrated enough to find this thread and dive in, then that's probably a sign it is time for you to get into this stuff yourself. With your dealer's assistance if you like, but with YOU in charge. And that means you need to do some learning.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> An SPL (Sound Pressure Level) meter is not a substitute for the Windows PC you will need to do your own ARC setup or to install new firmware versions in your Anthem as they become available.
> 
> 
> An SPL meter is a good thing to have. You use it for basic setting of speaker volumes and checking those volumes if you think there is a problem. It measures volume in decibels (dB) by listening over a wide range of frequencies. You use it with the sort of test "noise" tones that are produced by Setup > Level Calibration in the Anthem. Just about everyone uses an inexpensive, digital readout, meter from Radio Shack. You certainly do *NOT* need an expensive SPL meter. However, I just checked their web site, and the popular Radio Shack version appears to be out of stock at the moment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a link showing it on Radio Shack in the UK:
> 
> http://www.radioshackuk.co.uk/RadioS...nd-Level-Meter
> 
> 
> There are some SPL meters showing on Amazon, but I don't have experience with those.
> 
> --Bob



Great info..thanks... i will see if i can pick that up at the local Radio Shack..


The dealer guy ( via email) told me he used the digital connection for the blu ray as a test to see if he could eliminate the hissing we heard when we switched from cable to blu ray or visa versa- which he did on his last visit because it did correct that problem.. He said he is working on a game plan as for our next move and will get back to me or come over next week..


Spoke with Anthem today and was surprised how nice and helpful they were...the guy basically told me that the 6 channel would provide better audio ( the HD tracks) from blu ray -- With the hdmi, he said, we would be getting the core audio track, however, he thought it would fix my sound issue and that it is overall a simpler and less complicated way to go... He also said that the ARC works better with hdmi ( or was intended for hdmi )and that it is not necessarily needed with the 6 channel...interesting stuff...



Thanks again! Arthur


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Great info..thanks... i will see if i can pick that up at the local Radio Shack..
> 
> 
> The dealer guy ( via email) told me he used the digital connection for the blu ray as a test to see if he could eliminate the hissing we heard when we switched from cable to blu ray or visa versa- which he did on his last visit because it did correct that problem.. He said he is working on a game plan as for our next move and will get back to me or come over next week..
> 
> 
> Spoke with Anthem today and was surprised how nice and helpful they were...the guy basically told me that the 6 channel would provide better audio ( the HD tracks) from blu ray -- With the hdmi, he said, we would be getting the core audio track, however, he thought it would fix my sound issue and that it is overall a simpler and less complicated way to go... He also said that the ARC works better with hdmi ( or was intended for hdmi )and that it is not necessarily needed with the 6 channel...interesting stuff...
> 
> 
> Thanks again! Arthur



HDMI and 6ch can both carry HD sound. The core sound is carried by coax or optical. I think you may have gotten this mixed up.

ARC only works with a digital signal ie. hdmi but not with 6ch. from your player. So your best bet is to use hdmi from the bluray into the Anthem.

John


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21410385
> 
> 
> HDMI and 6ch can both carry HD sound. The core sound is carried by coax or optical. I think you may have gotten this mixed up.
> 
> ARC only works with a digital signal ie. hdmi but not with 6ch. from your player. So your best bet is to use hdmi from the bluray into the Anthem.
> 
> John



Hey John- i am definitely going to go to hdmi and just hope that i don't get that popping /hissing noises when i go from blu ray to Cable and visa versa- that is what happened initially and forced ( according to the installer )the installer to go to the 6 channel...


This is what the guy from Anthem said ( and wrote via email) :


Arthur,


The 6 ch would provide you with better audio from blu-ray.

It would be the HD tracks just sent out the 6ch.

On the HDMI you would get the core audio track and not the HD track.

However the HDMI may fix the issue.

Try connecting this and see if it resolves the problem.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey John- i am definitely going to go to hdmi and just hope that i don't get that popping /hissing noises when i go from blu ray to Cable and visa versa- that is what happened initially and forced ( according to the installer )the installer to go to the 6 channel...
> 
> 
> This is what the guy said ( and wrote via email) from Anthem:
> 
> 
> Arthur,
> 
> 
> The 6 ch would provide you with better audio from blu-ray.
> 
> It would be the HD tracks just sent out the 6ch.
> 
> On the HDMI you would get the core audio track and not the HD track.
> 
> However the HDMI may fix the issue.
> 
> Try connecting this and see if it resolves the problem.



Arthur,

6ch would cause you to forgo ARC and that would NOT give you better sound. So I'd be trying to find out why there is hissing so you could use HDMI.

John


----------



## arthurrubenstein

you know what i just realized? the whole process of the dealer /installer using ARC the other day was worthless since we were going 6 channel ( before he switched apparently to coax digital audio to eliminate the hissing) - am i correct on this?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> you know what i just realized? the whole process of the dealer /installer using ARC the other day was worthless since we were going 6 channel ( before he switched apparently to coax digital audio to eliminate the hissing) - am i correct on this?



Yes. I guess he thought that eliminating the hissing was more important than getting the best sound experience and that you wouldn't know the difference.

John


----------



## arthurrubenstein

Exactly--he thought i wouldn't know the difference- but what i am angry about is that i think he knew that the whole ARC operation was a sham - since he is somewhat knowledgable and knew we were connected via 6 channel-- this was before he switched to coax digital --which he did just before he left-- without telling me---->he just said the hissing noise is gone-- it was not until you guys pointed out the coax digital audio connection that i realized what was going on--


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Exactly--he thought i wouldn't know the difference- but what i am angry about is that i think he knew that the whole ARC operation was a sham - since he is somewhat knowledgable and knew we were connected via 6 channel-- this was before he switched to coax digital --which he did just before he left-- without telling me---->he just said the hissing noise is gone-- it was not until you guys pointed out the coax digital audio connection that i realized what was going on--



Well you can now look forward to even better sound, that's the upside







Hang in you're almost there.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21410527
> 
> 
> Hey John- i am definitely going to go to hdmi and just hope that i don't get that popping /hissing noises when i go from blu ray to Cable and visa versa- that is what happened initially and forced ( according to the installer )the installer to go to the 6 channel...
> 
> 
> This is what the guy from Anthem said ( and wrote via email) :
> 
> 
> Arthur,
> 
> 
> The 6 ch would provide you with better audio from blu-ray.
> 
> It would be the HD tracks just sent out the 6ch.
> 
> On the HDMI you would get the core audio track and not the HD track.
> 
> However the HDMI may fix the issue.
> 
> Try connecting this and see if it resolves the problem.



I think the Anthem rep was suggesting the 6 channel because the AVM 40 does not decode the Blue Ray HD codecs

The correct thing to do here would be to use the HDMI and set your Pioneer BDP-09 to decode the HD audio and send it out as LPCM not Bitstream as the Anthem AVM 40 does not decode the Blue Ray HD audio codecs. When your dealer suggests his game plan to clean up and re-engineer the wiring and setup this would be a good time to have him do this.

This also would allow ARC to function as ARC does not work with 6 Channel which is analog audio and there is no digital signal that can be modified by ARC.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21410716
> 
> 
> Exactly--he thought i wouldn't know the difference- but what i am angry about is that i think he knew that the whole ARC operation was a sham - since he is somewhat knowledgable and knew we were connected via 6 channel-- this was before he switched to coax digital --which he did just before he left-- without telling me---->he just said the hissing noise is gone-- it was not until you guys pointed out the coax digital audio connection that i realized what was going on--



I must take a minute here and add to the negative comments some have alluded to and made about the dealer.

You are assuming he is that knowledgeable and knows the Anthem that well. remains to be proven.

What irks me the most is, that if he sold you these components you now some top end components, but he was, and may still be, taking advantage of you. At the time you were not experienced enough to see through his ineptness and the crude assembly of your system.


Stew

.


----------



## nycjazz

Hi,


a few questions:


1) when getting the ARC file for the 50V (the one i got was not the original ARC), should the file I get from tech be matched to the 50V unit serial number or the serial number on the mic?


2) is there a firm date for the 3d upgrade?


3) What is anthem's timing policy for a free 3D upgrade? (what are the purchase dates that get a free upgrade)


4) If not eligible for the free upgrade, how much would it cost?


Txs!


NYCJazz


----------



## arthurrubenstein

Stew- I agree with you... This whole situation is almost shocking to me- as this dealer is not just a little mom and pop shop but rather a Large ( if not the largest in the area) dealer for anthem -as well as [email protected] - I have spent so much money with them Not to mention that I had referred them to a few other customers, with one spending over 50k doing their entire home....I trusted these guys and absolutely believed they knew what they were doing - now I am starting to believe that every time they had me spend more $ to fix the sound issues we were having was just to generate revenue for them...

I read in the manual that when ARC is performed that the first mic placement should be done from the center/main listening area...the first setting they did was just a couple of feet from the front speakers...where noone sits....so not only was the ARC unnecessary ( as it was done with the 6 channel set up) but also done incorrectly...crazy stuff...


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21411321
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> a few questions:
> 
> 
> 1) when getting the ARC file for the 50V (the one i got was not the original ARC), should the file I get from tech be matched to the 50V unit serial number or the serial number on the mic?
> 
> 
> 2) is there a firm date for the 3d upgrade?
> 
> 
> 3) What is anthem's timing policy for a free 3D upgrade? (what are the purchase dates that get a free upgrade)
> 
> 
> 4) If not eligible for the free upgrade, how much would it cost?
> 
> 
> Txs!
> 
> 
> NYCJazz



1. You will have to give them both serial numbers and you should receive two files.


2. None announced.


3. None announced.


4. None announced.


----------



## rovingtravler

NYC,


You need to talk to your dealer about about the upgrade. Many were offering the upgrade free as long ago as 8 months.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21411831
> 
> 
> Not to mention that I had referred them to a few other customers, with one spending over 50k doing their entire home......



Can you imagine how that may be performing and what that may look like under the covers ?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21411321
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> a few questions:
> 
> 
> 1) when getting the ARC file for the 50V (the one i got was not the original ARC), should the file I get from tech be matched to the 50V unit serial number or the serial number on the mic?
> 
> 
> 2) is there a firm date for the 3d upgrade?
> 
> 
> 3) What is anthem's timing policy for a free 3D upgrade? (what are the purchase dates that get a free upgrade)
> 
> 
> 4) If not eligible for the free upgrade, how much would it cost?
> 
> 
> Txs!
> 
> 
> NYCJazz



The 3D upgrade is not free and is scheduled for the end of January. The cost has not been determined as yet.

John


----------



## JeffDaniel

I introduced a 65" plasma to my tv room a few weeks ago. I now have a strange buzzing sound from my D2 (louder than plasma buzz coming directly from the D2), could the 2 be related? Would adding ferrite cores to hdmi cables and power cables help?


Or should the unit be sent in for repair?


My D2 has been rock solid for years.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

arthurrubenstein,


You've received some incorrect advice in recent posts. I suspect some posters are confusing your AVM 40 processor with the Anthem MRX receivers but no matter.


First, your AVM 40 does not "decode" the new, lossless Bitstream formats found on Blu-ray discs -- Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA. However it DOES accept high bit rate, multi-channel LPCM digital audio over HDMI from players that can do their own decoding.


Your Pioneer BDP-09 Blu-ray player is capable of doing its own decoding. NOTE: The brochure on the Pioneer site says that early production models of that player will need a firmware update to decode DTS-HD MA format. Presumably that's available by now, and it may very well be the case that your player came with that firmware already installed. If not, your dealer should be able to help you get it installed.


Now that means you should set the Pioneer player to output LPCM audio on the HDMI cable. LPCM audio is the "simplest" form of digital audio -- it's what you get after decoding any Bitstream format, including TrueHD and DTS-HD MA. Your AVM 40 is able to accept up to 5.1 channels at up to 96KHz of that. The HDMI handshake will automatically insure the player only sends that to you. When playing a 7.1 track for example, the player will down mix the Rear surround channels into the Side surround channels as part of the decode.


So method number one to get best audio from your Blu-ray player is to use HDMI audio with the player set to output LPCM (not Bitstream). And you may need a firmware update in your Pioneer player.


-------------------------------------------------


Next, you *CAN* use ARC with multi-channel Analog audio input in your AVM 40. Set the Source Setup for the 6-Channel Source to use ANALOG-DSP as its audio input. This will cause the AVM 40 to re-digitize that 6 channel Analog audio input. Then if Room EQ is also ON, ARC will be applied. And the result will be converted back to Analog for output to your speakers.


The AVM 40 has 5.1 (not 7.1) multi-channel Analog inputs. So to use this you set the Pioneer player to down mix its multi-channel Analog output to 5.1. Note that you have to set this in the player -- there's no handshake that sets things automatically when using Analog audio.


Other than the down mix to 5.1 output, ALL speaker configuration processing will be handled by ARC in the AVM 40. So you don't want the Pioneer player also trying to do this.


To keep that from happening you need to go into the Pioneer's speaker configuration settings and set:


1) All speakers to "large" -- i.e., no crossover processing to steer bass from any main speaker channel to the subwoofer. Crossover processing will be handled by ARC in the AVM 40.


2) All speakers at equal distance. Any distance will do so long as they are all the same. Distance adjustment will be handled in your AVM 40. And,


3) All speakers at 0dB volume trim. Speaker volume trim is handled by ARC.


Now there is an extra complexity for #3. You need to get an audio calibration disc -- I recommend the AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, disc -- and double check the level of the player's Analog Subwoofer output.


Analog sub output from players needs to be boosted to balance with the rest of the speaker channels. Technically this is so that you can carry LOUD bass in that output without clipping the input of the pre-amp at the other end of the cable. Your AVM 40 automatically provides +10dB boost on that Analog subwoofer input, and you need to check that that's correct for your Pioneer player. Again, you use a calibration disc to check this.

*(By the way, this is the sort of thing you do with an SPL Meter -- as discussed in my post from yesterday.)*


All of the above speaker configuration and sub level items are *ONLY* for the multi-channel analog audio connection. Again, with HDMI this stuff happens automagically.


Anyway, the bottom line is that multi-channel Analog audio from the Pioneer player is a SECOND way to get best quality audio from it. The player has to decode audio tracks (including TrueHD and DTS-HD MA) to produce such Analog output. And your AVM 40 *CAN* be set so that ARC gets applied to multi-channel Analog input.


-------------------------------------------


My recommendation is that you use HDMI audio from the Pioneer player, with the player set to produce LPCM digital audio output (i.e., to do its own decoding).


-------------------------------------------


You mentioned problems with mic placement in the ARC setup done by your dealer. Mic placement is *CRUCIAL* to getting good ARC results. A poor choice of mic positions could easily explain the problems you've been having with dialog.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDaniel* /forum/post/21413112
> 
> 
> I introduced a 65" plasma to my tv room a few weeks ago. I now have a strange buzzing sound from my D2 (louder than plasma buzz coming directly from the D2), could the 2 be related? Would adding ferrite cores to hdmi cables and power cables help?
> 
> 
> Or should the unit be sent in for repair?
> 
> 
> My D2 has been rock solid for years.



Are you sure the sound is coming from the D2 chassis itself and not from, say, the subwoofer?


If it is coming from the D2 chassis it sounds like the D2's power supply is unhappy.


First, disconnect wall power from the new TV and also disconnect any cables at the back of the D2 which are going to the TV. That may just be the HDMI cable, but whatever; disconnect them all.


Power up the D2. Still have the buzzing from the D2 chassis? If so, call Anthem tech support as your D2 likely needs service. It is probably just coincidence that this happened at the same time as changing the TV. Anthem tech support will likely ask you to go even further and disconnect *ALL* cables from the D2 except for the power cord to make sure there isn't some short or whatever in a different cable that might be related to this problem.


If there's no buzzing from the D2 chassis in the test above, then plug the TV back into power but LEAVE IT UNCABLED from the D2. Power up BOTH the TV and the D2. Does the buzzing return in the D2 chassis? If so you may have a voltage problem -- insufficient voltage to service both the TV and the D2. This could happen because you are using a power conditioner that can't output enough juice for both of them.


If still no buzzing then power down and just reconnect the HDMI cable from the TV to the D2. Power both up. Does the buzzing return? Again, it is crucial that you are sure the buzzing is coming from the D2 chassis. If it is coming from a speaker, such as your subwoofer, there's a different problem to be addressed -- a "ground loop".


If the buzzing from the D2 chassis returns, try a different HDMI input into your TV. Call Anthem tech support for further assistance diagnosing this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21412879
> 
> 
> The 3D upgrade is not free and is scheduled for the end of January. The cost has not been determined as yet.
> 
> John



It wouldn't surprise me if some dealers are offering to cover the cost of the upgrade as part of a deal to get other business from some customers, but of course that would be a dealer by dealer sort of thing. The upgrade will cost money and SOMEBODY will end up paying for it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21410716
> 
> 
> Exactly--he thought i wouldn't know the difference- but what i am angry about is that i think he knew that the whole ARC operation was a sham - since he is somewhat knowledgable and knew we were connected via 6 channel-- this was before he switched to coax digital --which he did just before he left-- without telling me---->he just said the hissing noise is gone-- it was not until you guys pointed out the coax digital audio connection that i realized what was going on--



You've mentioned this "hissing" noise a few times. Is that a general, low level of hiss underneath the audio you are actually playing or are you referring to a total loss of audio so that *ALL* you hear is hiss?


If the first, then hiss added to audio is often a symptom of "radio frequency interference". One common culprit for this is room light dimmers, possibly even in another room. See the Hum/Hiss FAQ sticky thread at the top of the Audio Theory forum here.


If you are talking about total loss of audio (just hiss), then that's something else, and we'd need more details about what you were trying to do when it happened.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21410568
> 
> 
> you know what i just realized? the whole process of the dealer /installer using ARC the other day was worthless since we were going 6 channel ( before he switched apparently to coax digital audio to eliminate the hissing) - am i correct on this?



No, not really.


The ARC setup is independent of any Source device settings including how you choose to use audio from different Sources. ARC setup is done between the Anthem and the Windows PC and the ARC mic, with the Anthem generating the test tones in a manner that's independent of any of your Sources.


And as I said in the post above, you've received incorrect information in some recent posts here. Your AVM 40 is perfectly capable of applying ARC to the 6-channel Analog input -- so long as you have that 6-CH Source set to ANALOG-DSP with Room EQ ON.


Of course as currently cabled, you would have no audio for your Left Surround speaker....

--Bob


----------



## JeffDaniel

thanks Bob. I have done some of those debug steps but will continue on them before giving tech support a call. Buzz does appear to be coming from the chassis though.


Power could be an issue, I have a dedicated circuit and everything plugged into a Rotel power conditioner but an old house. I really should have at least 2 dedicated circuits, will investigate that further this weekend as well.


My D2 is an older unit and has the old power supply that gets really hot so I guess that could be getting unhappy too.


Thanks again for the advice debug will continue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDaniel* /forum/post/21413284
> 
> 
> thanks Bob. I have done some of those debug steps but will continue on them before giving tech support a call. Buzz does appear to be coming from the chassis though.
> 
> 
> Power could be an issue, I have a dedicated circuit and everything plugged into a Rotel power conditioner but an old house. I really should have at least 2 dedicated circuits, will investigate that further this weekend as well.
> 
> 
> My D2 is an older unit and has the old power supply that gets really hot so I guess that could be getting unhappy too.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the advice debug will continue.



Take the Rotel out of the power hook up as a first step and see if that makes the D2 happier. It could be that the Rotel is going bad.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, not really.
> 
> 
> The ARC setup is independent of any Source device settings including how you choose to use audio from different Sources. ARC setup is done between the Anthem and the Windows PC and the ARC mic, with the Anthem generating the test tones in a manner that's independent of any of your Sources.
> 
> 
> And as I said in the post above, you've received incorrect information in some recent posts here. Your AVM 40 is perfectly capable of applying ARC to the 6-channel Analog input -- so long as you have that 6-CH Source set to ANALOG-DSP with Room EQ ON.
> 
> 
> Of course as currently cabled, you would have no audio for your Left Surround speaker....
> 
> --Bob



That was my mistake, for some reason I thought Analog DSP could not be used with 6ch analog. It's been a while since I used my HDDVD using 6ch. Thanks for the correction.

John


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU* /forum/post/21412116
> 
> 
> 1. You will have to give them both serial numbers and you should receive two files.
> 
> 
> 2. None announced.
> 
> 
> 3. None announced.
> 
> 
> 4. None announced.



Thanks. Why do I need 2 files for the ARC? I thought one file was for the ARC authorization for the unit, but the 50Vs already come with ARC authorized. If the mic does not match the one used in the factory, can I really ever use a different mic? Thanks!


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21414600
> 
> 
> Thanks. Why do I need 2 files for the ARC? I thought one file was for the ARC authorization for the unit, but the 50Vs already come with ARC authorized. If the mic does not match the one used in the factory, can I really ever use a different mic? Thanks!



You need the license file that has the mic and anthem serial numbers and a mic calibration file.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21414600
> 
> 
> Thanks. Why do I need 2 files for the ARC? I thought one file was for the ARC authorization for the unit, but the 50Vs already come with ARC authorized. If the mic does not match the one used in the factory, can I really ever use a different mic? Thanks!



One file is your ARC license. The other file is the mic calibration data individualized for your ARC mic.


I'm not sure the current ARC application software enforces the need for the ARC license file for the AVM 50v since, as you say, all such units are licensed for ARC.


If you ever switch to a different ARC mic -- perhaps because your current mic fails -- you will need a new mic calibration file to match or you will get bogus ARC results. Anthem tech support can email you the correct ARC mic calibration file. They will need the serial number of your AVM 50v and the serial number of your new ARC mic.


You can not use just any old mic with ARC. It must be an ARC mic.

--Bob


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21414775
> 
> 
> One file is your ARC license. The other file is the mic calibration data individualized for your ARC mic.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure the current ARC application software enforces the need for the ARC license file for the AVM 50v since, as you say, all such units are licensed for ARC.
> 
> 
> If you ever switch to a different ARC mic -- perhaps because your current mic fails -- you will need a new mic calibration file to match or you will get bogus ARC results. Anthem tech support can email you the correct ARC mic calibration file. They will need the serial number of your AVM 50v and the serial number of your new ARC mic.
> 
> 
> You can not use just any old mic with ARC. It must be an ARC mic.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. Yes, I thought about this after talking to tech. I explained the problem, but they only asked for the unit's serial number. So I will not use ARC since the file I got from them is probably calibrated to a different Mic. Still, I am puzzled as to how I can use a different ARC Mic since I thought the unit and the Mic were paired at factory. With the units and the mic's serial for two unmated pairs, how can I ever get a truly calibrated file?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21414851
> 
> 
> Thanks. Yes, I thought about this after talking to tech. I explained the problem, but they only asked for the unit's serial number. So I will not use ARC since the file I got from them is probably calibrated to a different Mic. Still, I am puzzled as to how I can use a different ARC Mic since I thought the unit and the Mic were paired at factory. With the units and the mic's serial for two unmated pairs, how can I ever get a truly calibrated file?



The calibration only relates to the Mic -- derived from testing that Mic. There's nothing about the specific Anthem unit that changes the calibration.


It used to be that not all units were sold with ARC. So the idea was to keep people from buying one ARC kit and sharing it.


The ARC application would use the license file to determine that the given Anthem processor was authorized for ARC -- based on the processor serial number, which it reads over the serial cable. Then the license file would also tell which mic to use since that mic serial number was part of the file name. So the ARC application could automatically find the correct mic calibration file -- same unit serial number and mic serial number.


In the current ARC application it simply lists all the calibration files it finds and asks you to confirm which one matches the serial number of the ARC mic you are using.


As for your current situation: Tech knows which ARC mic originally went with your unit's serial number. The name of the file(s) they sent should be made up of the two numbers -- the serial number of the unit and the serial number of your ARC mic.


If the serial number of your ARC mic is DIFFERENT from the one included in the names of those files then you need to call tech support again. They can easily generate the correct mic calibration file for you from their records.


Don't just use the calibration file for a different ARC mic as you'll get bogus results.

--Bob


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21414931
> 
> 
> The calibration only relates to the Mic -- derived from testing that Mic. There's nothing about the specific Anthem unit that changes the calibration.
> 
> 
> It used to be that not all units were sold with ARC. So the idea was to keep people from buying one ARC kit and sharing it.
> 
> 
> The ARC application would use the license file to determine that the given Anthem processor was authorized for ARC -- based on the processor serial number, which it reads over the serial cable. Then the license file would also tell which mic to use since that mic serial number was part of the file name. So the ARC application could automatically find the correct mic calibration file -- same unit serial number and mic serial number.
> 
> 
> In the current ARC application it simply lists all the calibration files it finds and asks you to confirm which one matches the serial number of the ARC mic you are using.
> 
> 
> As for your current situation: Tech knows which ARC mic originally went with your unit's serial number. The name of the file(s) they sent should be made up of the two numbers -- the serial number of the unit and the serial number of your ARC mic.
> 
> 
> If the serial number of your ARC mic is DIFFERENT from the one included in the names of those files then you need to call tech support again. They can easily generate the correct mic calibration file for you from their records.
> 
> 
> Don't just use the calibration file for a different ARC mic as you'll get bogus results.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks! This makes sense. Now, another question. I have seen on ebay some ARC units which look smaller than the ones the 50Vs come with. Can those be used the 50Vs? I remember the mics were on a tripod, and yes, they were ARCs from Anthem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ No idea.

--Bob


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21415781
> 
> 
> ^ No idea.
> 
> --Bob



Here is the listing: The cover was of the box has red and picture of a mic. It went really cheap but I wasn't sure it would work on the 50V.


ANTHEM ARC SONIC FRONTIERS ROOM CORRECTION SYSTEM VERSION 3.0.1You are bidding on a New Anthem Room Correction System ARC Version 3.0.1. The ARC system includes

- Anthem Room Correction (ARC) software installation CD

- Microphone and microphone clip

- Telescoping stand and base

- 12 ft(3.6m) USB microphone cable

- 15ft (4.6m) serial cable

The Anthem Room Correction (ARC) System is used in conjunction w/ Anthem processors to correct the effect's of a room's reflective surfaces on sound quality.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21415204
> 
> 
> Thanks! This makes sense. Now, another question. I have seen on ebay some ARC units which look smaller than the ones the 50Vs come with. Can those be used the 50Vs? I remember the mics were on a tripod, and yes, they were ARCs from Anthem.



Some new Anthem owners have reported that the microphone stand has been changed and they no longer use the one with the big heavy iron base.

Maybe that is what he is referring to or what he saw.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21414775
> 
> 
> I'm not sure the current ARC application software enforces the need for the ARC license file for the AVM 50v since, as you say, all such units are licensed for ARC.



Although mics are no longer constrained to one AVM/D, both files are still needed to run the program (and in contrast the MRX-bundled kits use only the mic number in the file name). The important thing is to have the mic match the second half of the serial number in the file name. The first part, which is the AVM/D serial number, no longer matters.


Tech support can look things up given either the AVM/D or the mic serial number and tie the two but since the AVM/D number is the first part, it's a bit easier to look it up when the file names are arranged alphanumerically.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JeffDaniel* /forum/post/21413284
> 
> 
> My D2 is an older unit and has the old power supply that gets really hot so I guess that could be getting unhappy too.



Standard opening question when diagnosing hum/buzz/hiss/snap/crackle/pop etc:


From how far is it audible?


In general, if not audible from the listening position it's not considered problematic. If it can be heard from the listening area more questions usually follow.


All D2s use a switching power supply for the video processing section. In later production the entire unit was fed by a switching supply (still the case for D2v and 50v) whereas in the older warmer D2s the audio section was fed by a linear supply, same as the one in the D1.


The part of the supply that feeds the video processor - any model - generates noise for which level varies according to what the video processor is doing. This is normal even for plasma TVs - just put your ear near the vent holes at the back while it's displaying something and then change its input. It normally can't be heard from more than around 3-4 feet away.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21410568
> 
> 
> you know what i just realized? the whole process of the dealer /installer using ARC the other day was worthless since we were going 6 channel ( before he switched apparently to coax digital audio to eliminate the hissing) - am i correct on this?



As others mentioned there's hardly a reason to connect analog audio for the main zone when the player can send multichannel PCM to the prepro. The 6-ch input exists only for legacy DVD-A/SACD players which have no other way of putting out multichannel audio.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]!* /forum/post/21406657
> 
> 
> When the Oppo change picture resolution it takes 1 or 2 minutes that i see a normal picture on screen.
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> Is it better to set the anthem on "auto" or set on "1920x1080P-50hz or 60hz" ?



Auto settings for HDMI in menu 1 are best avoided to make handshakes quicker and more reliable - use forced settings where possible. For Data there is hardly ever a good technical reason to use 12 bits though if the TV/projector tells the AVM 50v or D2v that it handles 12-bit video, the AVM/D will try to send that when in Auto mode. To start, try the 10-bit setting, and Studio RGB for the format.


HDMI lock should never take more than a few seconds - it's usually around four to six, more when repeaters or matrix switches are involved (every HDMI stage adds around two seconds).


If you haven't done so I'd recommend contacting tech support because things like this are very system-dependent.


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21413232
> 
> 
> You've mentioned this "hissing" noise a few times. Is that a general, low level of hiss underneath the audio you are actually playing or are you referring to a total loss of audio so that *ALL* you hear is hiss?
> 
> 
> If the first, then hiss added to audio is often a symptom of "radio frequency interference". One common culprit for this is room light dimmers, possibly even in another room. See the Hum/Hiss FAQ sticky thread at the top of the Audio Theory forum here.
> 
> 
> If you are talking about total loss of audio (just hiss), then that's something else, and we'd need more details about what you were trying to do when it happened.
> 
> --Bob



Morning Bob- Presently it is more of popping noise actually-let me backup a second- when we initially had the hdmi connection from the blu ray to the anthem i heard random loud hissing noises emanating from all of the speakers which sounded like the sound checks from the speakers when you run ARC if i recall correctly.....it was really loud and went from speaker to speaker-we also got a sort of a popping noise when i went from blu ray to cable or visa versa and when the system was shut off you would hear a pop....... this is what caused the dealer to go to the 6 channel...he thought it was an anthem/hdmi issue--recently up until he changed the setup from 6 channel to digital coax we heard a popping noise coming from i believe the center channel and /or a rear channel when we switched from cable to blu ray or visa versa and when the unit was shut off..this is what caused him to go to digital coax ( without telling me ) - this did eliminate the popping noises completely...

thanks Arthur


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21416724
> 
> 
> As others mentioned there's hardly a reason to connect analog audio for the main zone when the player can send multichannel PCM to the prepro. The 6-ch input exists only for legacy DVD-A/SACD players which have no other way of putting out multichannel audio.



Nick- the dealer utilized the 6 channel because of issues we were having with hdmi- and he told me that because the pioneer( bd-09) has such good processing (?) whereby we were bypassing the anthem av40 that the 6 channel set up is superior to hdmi- but because of popping noises he switched it to coax digital...


Also- i read in the manual that the MIC placement is critical in getting good results from ARC- is that accurate? that the first MIC placement should be done in front of the main listening area first? because the first Mic placement was done close to the front speakers at the end of a L couch i have... thanks Arthur


----------



## JeffDaniel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21416704
> 
> 
> Standard opening question when diagnosing hum/buzz/hiss/snap/crackle/pop etc:
> 
> 
> From how far is it audible?
> 
> 
> In general, if not audible from the listening position it's not considered problematic. If it can be heard from the listening area more questions usually follow.
> 
> 
> All D2s use a switching power supply for the video processing section. In later production the entire unit was fed by a switching supply (still the case for D2v and 50v) whereas in the older warmer D2s the audio section was fed by a linear supply, same as the one in the D1.
> 
> 
> The part of the supply that feeds the video processor - any model - generates noise for which level varies according to what the video processor is doing. This is normal even for plasma TVs - just put your ear near the vent holes at the back while it's displaying something and then change its input. It normally can't be heard from more than around 3-4 feet away.



Thank you Nick. Yes you can hear it from the seating position, rather loud. Seating is ~7-8 feet away. It is a new thing as I have never heard this type of noise before. I need to do some further debug following suggestions from Bob to determine exactly the issue.


I'm hoping it's minor I'd be lost if I had to send my D2 in for service.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21417038
> 
> 
> Also- i read in the manual that the MIC placement is critical in getting good results from ARC- is that accurate? that the first MIC placement should be done in front of the main listening area first? because the first Mic placement was done close to the front speakers at the end of a L couch i have... thanks Arthur



I'm not Nick; but, yes, MIC placement is critical. The first position should be at you main listening position, and the mic should be placed at ear level, and the mic should be pointing up towards the ceiling. Then you should move the mic to the next listening position. Keep in mind that you should have at least 2' of space between the last measured position and the next measured position. Also, if you can, try not to be in the room when the sweeps are taking place. If you can't avoid that, then just make sure you are not between the mic and any of the speakers when the sweeps are taking place. When you are doing the measurements, make sure the room is quiet which means turn off the furnace, radio, or anything that will make noise.


----------



## Shrike645

I believe ARC uses the first mic position for the speaker volume level trims so yes it is important.


I don't think being in the room while measurements happen is a problem. After all you are in the room when you are listening so if your presence affects ARC measurement in any way then it should be there when you are listening too.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21417024
> 
> 
> Morning Bob- Presently it is more of popping noise actually-let me backup a second- when we initially had the hdmi connection from the blu ray to the anthem i heard random loud hissing noises emanating from all of the speakers which sounded like the sound checks from the speakers when you run ARC if i recall correctly.....it was really loud and went from speaker to speaker-we also got a sort of a popping noise when i went from blu ray to cable or visa versa and when the system was shut off you would hear a pop....... this is what caused the dealer to go to the 6 channel...he thought it was an anthem/hdmi issue--recently up until he changed the setup from 6 channel to digital coax we heard a popping noise coming from i believe the center channel and /or a rear channel when we switched from cable to blu ray or visa versa and when the unit was shut off..this is what caused him to go to digital coax ( without telling me ) - this did eliminate the popping noises completely...
> 
> thanks Arthur



Well that's not radio frequency interference. It is an HDMI problem.


The first things to do when you have an HDMI handshaking problem is to check the HDMI cables and check the settings in the Source and the Anthem to simplify the handshake -- i.e., use explicit settings instead of "Auto".


HDMI is an end to end protocol so the cables on either side of the AVM 40 could be the problem even though you are not sending audio out to the display.


As I understand it you have the AVM 40 in a different room from the Blu-ray player and the display, so you may be using longish HDMI cables. If so, those cables may not be up to handling 1080p video signals. Your cable TV box will only send 1080i signals (half the bandwidth) which put less demand on the cables.


HDMI plugs are only friction fit, and it only takes a small shift of the plug in the socket to screw up the connection -- perhaps even from just the weight of the cable. So make sure the plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets at each end, without being tugged in any direction.


Settings in the player which cause it to have to figure out every time whether to send LPCM or Bitstream audio over the HDMI cable could be another source of the problem as the player might get confused. The HDMI handshake (connection setup) is driven by the Source device. So tell the player you want HDMI LPCM output rather than letting it figure that out on its own. Also check to see if there is a firmware update for the player.


Try 480p (not 480i) and then 1080i video output from the player. If those work without problems but 1080p output has problems then that's pretty strong evidence that your HDMI cables are not up to the challenge.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21418280
> 
> 
> Well that's not radio frequency interference. It is an HDMI problem.
> 
> 
> The first things to do when you have an HDMI handshaking problem is to check the HDMI cables and check the settings in the Source and the Anthem to simplify the handshake -- i.e., use explicit settings instead of "Auto".
> 
> 
> HDMI is an end to end protocol so the cables on either side of the AVM 40 could be the problem even though you are not sending audio out to the display.
> 
> 
> As I understand it you have the AVM 40 in a different room from the Blu-ray player and the display, so you may be using longish HDMI cables. If so, those cables may not be up to handling 1080p video signals. Your cable TV box will only send 1080i signals (half the bandwidth) which put less demand on the cables.
> 
> 
> HDMI plugs are only friction fit, and it only takes a small shift of the plug in the socket to screw up the connection -- perhaps even from just the weight of the cable. So make sure the plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets at each end, without being tugged in any direction.
> 
> 
> Settings in the player which cause it to have to figure out every time whether to send LPCM or Bitstream audio over the HDMI cable could be another source of the problem as the player might get confused. The HDMI handshake (connection setup) is driven by the Source device. So tell the player you want HDMI LPCM output rather than letting it figure that out on its own. Also check to see if there is a firmware update for the player.
> 
> 
> Try 480p (not 480i) and then 1080i video output from the player. If those work without problems but 1080p output has problems then that's pretty strong evidence that your HDMI cables are not up to the challenge.
> 
> --Bob



Arthur


Another suggestion when the dealer returns, do not let him talk you into replacing the HDMI cables with expensive $$$ HDMI Cables. Us either of the two vendors on the AVS forum at the top of every page. Either Monoprice or Blue Jeans Cables. Blue Jean cables are 100% American Made not just assembled from Chinese products.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ What he said.


When you check out the Blue Jeans web page you'll see that they have two different "best" HDMI cables -- both reasonably priced. The difference is that one of them is designed for longer length cable runs.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21418147
> 
> 
> I believe ARC uses the first mic position for the speaker volume level trims so yes it is important.
> 
> 
> I don't think being in the room while measurements happen is a problem. After all you are in the room when you are listening so if your presence affects ARC measurement in any way then it should be there when you are listening too.



The first mic position is definitely the most important one, as that's the one used to set speaker volume trims. It should be set at the center of your primary seating, with the mic tip at seated ear height and with the mic pointed straight up.


A "boom arm" mic stand makes it easy to extend the mic over seat cushions or from behind, over a seat back to get it to your head position. You can get a complete, light weight boom arm mic stand for about $30, shipped, or just the boom arm itself to put on the top of the Anthem-supplied, straight pole stand. Simply unscrew the mic clip from the Anthem stand and screw it on to the end of the boom arm. Here's a complete stand I like:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Mic_Stand.html 


Keep the mic tip away from reflective or blocking surfaces. E.g., if you have high seat backs raise the mic tip a few inches to clear the seat back or move the mic about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from the seat back. Try to keep the mic tip a good foot or more away from walls. 18 inches is better. This can be a bit tough if your seating is flush to a back wall.


Subsequent mic positions have the mic set the same way for height and pointing. They must alternate either side of #1 and no two mic positions (whether or not sequential) should be closer than 24 inches apart -- I like to use 30 inches.


It is a good idea to have some forward/backward shift in the positions as well as side to side. So if you were measuring for typical sofa seating, rather than run 5 positions all along the seat back of the sofa, swing the outer two positions in closer to the screen by about the width of the sofa cushion. Typically that will put the outer two positions outside the sofa arms and roughly aligned with the front of the sofa cushion.


Note that you are NOT trying to get a mic position at each sitter's head position The idea is to sample the range of the listening area, but within the rules above.


Choose your mic positions with the aid of a steel tape measure. It helps to mark each position with a piece of painter's masking tape (the type that leaves no residue behind) placed on the furniture below where you want the mic to be. That makes it easier to repeat the positions. Jot down some notes about HOW you arranged the mic positions so that it is easy to do it again the next time you try -- which makes it easier to compare results.

--Bob


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21418114
> 
> 
> I'm not Nick; but, yes, MIC placement is critical. The first position should be at you main listening position, and the mic should be placed at ear level, and the mic should be pointing up towards the ceiling. Then you should move the mic to the next listening position. Keep in mind that you should have at least 2' of space between the last measured position and the next measured position. Also, if you can, try not to be in the room when the sweeps are taking place. If you can't avoid that, then just make sure you are not between the mic and any of the speakers when the sweeps are taking place. When you are doing the measurements, make sure the room is quiet which means turn off the furnace, radio, or anything that will make noise.



Thanks...i have relayed some of this info to the dealer and i am sure he is not happy ( with me trying to tell him how to do his job ) but he is coming back next week to hook up the hdmi and hopefully to run ARC again


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21419190
> 
> 
> The first mic position is definitely the most important one, as that's the one used to set speaker volume trims. It should be set at the center of your primary seating, with the mic tip at seated ear height and with the mic pointed straight up.
> 
> 
> A "boom arm" mic stand makes it easy to extend the mic over seat cushions or from behind, over a seat back to get it to your head position. You can get a complete, light weight boom arm mic stand for about $30, shipped, or just the boom arm itself to put on the top of the Anthem-supplied, straight pole stand. Simply unscrew the mic clip from the Anthem stand and screw it on to the end of the boom arm. Here's a complete stand I like:
> 
> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Mic_Stand.html
> 
> 
> Keep the mic tip away from reflective or blocking surfaces. E.g., if you have high seat backs raise the mic tip a few inches to clear the seat back or move the mic about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from the seat back. Try to keep the mic tip a good foot or more away from walls. 18 inches is better. This can be a bit tough if your seating is flush to a back wall.
> 
> 
> Subsequent mic positions have the mic set the same way for height and pointing. They must alternate either side of #1 and no two mic positions (whether or not sequential) should be closer than 24 inches apart -- I like to use 30 inches.
> 
> 
> It is a good idea to have some forward/backward shift in the positions as well as side to side. So if you were measuring for typical sofa seating, rather than run 5 positions all along the seat back of the sofa, swing the outer two positions in closer to the screen by about the width of the sofa cushion. Typically that will put the outer two positions outside the sofa arms and roughly aligned with the front of the sofa cushion.
> 
> 
> Note that you are NOT trying to get a mic position at each sitter's head position The idea is to sample the range of the listening area, but within the rules above.
> 
> 
> Choose your mic positions with the aid of a steel tape measure. It helps to mark each position with a piece of painter's masking tape (the type that leaves no residue behind) placed on the furniture below where you want the mic to be. That makes it easier to repeat the positions. Jot down some notes about HOW you arranged the mic positions so that it is easy to do it again the next time you try -- which makes it easier to compare results.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob- there is some great info in there and i have borrowed some of it and relayed it to the dealer and i guess we will see what his reaction is...if he doesn't re do the ARC then i will do as you outlined above.....thanks so much


Arthur


----------



## obie_fl

Just adding on to what Bob said I've had good luck using a 5 position X configuration with the center of the X being my 1st position.


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21418697
> 
> 
> Arthur
> 
> 
> Another suggestion when the dealer returns, do not let him talk you into replacing the HDMI cables with expensive $$$ HDMI Cables. Us either of the two vendors on the AVS forum at the top of every page. Either Monoprice or Blue Jeans Cables. Blue Jean cables are 100% American Made not just assembled from Chinese products.



he sold me the hdmi cables i have now but it wouldn't surprise me if he told me i need better ones now..  thanks for the info... Arthur


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21418280
> 
> 
> Well that's not radio frequency interference. It is an HDMI problem.
> 
> 
> The first things to do when you have an HDMI handshaking problem is to check the HDMI cables and check the settings in the Source and the Anthem to simplify the handshake -- i.e., use explicit settings instead of "Auto".
> 
> 
> HDMI is an end to end protocol so the cables on either side of the AVM 40 could be the problem even though you are not sending audio out to the display.
> 
> 
> As I understand it you have the AVM 40 in a different room from the Blu-ray player and the display, so you may be using longish HDMI cables. If so, those cables may not be up to handling 1080p video signals. Your cable TV box will only send 1080i signals (half the bandwidth) which put less demand on the cables.
> 
> 
> HDMI plugs are only friction fit, and it only takes a small shift of the plug in the socket to screw up the connection -- perhaps even from just the weight of the cable. So make sure the plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets at each end, without being tugged in any direction.
> 
> 
> Settings in the player which cause it to have to figure out every time whether to send LPCM or Bitstream audio over the HDMI cable could be another source of the problem as the player might get confused. The HDMI handshake (connection setup) is driven by the Source device. So tell the player you want HDMI LPCM output rather than letting it figure that out on its own. Also check to see if there is a firmware update for the player.
> 
> 
> Try 480p (not 480i) and then 1080i video output from the player. If those work without problems but 1080p output has problems then that's pretty strong evidence that your HDMI cables are not up to the challenge.
> 
> --Bob



You are absolutely correct- the hdmi cables are very long going from the basement through the ceiling and up to the blu ray...i will check to see if everything is in accordance with what you describe above once the hdmi cables are back in place...by the way we did the firmware update for the blu ray and although there are some updates for the anthem avm 40 the dealer guy said they were not important and didn't update it...



Thanks Arthur


----------



## nycjazz

Ok,


After a couple of months of waiting for my AVM50v it is finally here. I first posted to get help with some issues on the video for which they went back to Anthem and the video is now great. Since I never had a chase to really play with it, I am having some newbie issues







. So here's where I need help:


1.) I connected my Oppo (configured for 5.1) via hdmi to the 50v, but the audio comes out as a 2 channel mix. I can see the oppo menu fine and the music is great, but is comes as a 2 channel. When I press Mode it says "6 channel input dolby d". I know the oppo is configured correctly as I have been using in it in this 5.1 mode for some time.


2) I have the same 2 channel issue when connecting to my TV. Great picture and sound, but the output of the 50V seems to be set to stereo... When I press mode: "mode for 2 ch input anthem-logic cinema".


Sorry if this is such a trivial question, but I have been struggling with it for hours...


Thanks!


NYC Jazz


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21420244
> 
> 
> Ok,
> 
> 
> After a couple of months of waiting for my AVM50v it is finally here. I first posted to get help with some issues on the video for which they went back to Anthem and the video is now great. Since I never had a chase to really play with it, I am having some newbie issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So here's where I need help:
> 
> 
> 1.) I connected my Oppo (configured for 5.1) via hdmi to the 50v, but the audio comes out as a 2 channel mix. I can see the oppo menu fine and the music is great, but is comes as a 2 channel. When I press Mode it says "6 channel input dolby d". I know the oppo is configured correctly as I have been using in it in this 5.1 mode for some time.
> 
> 
> 2) I have the same 2 channel issue when connecting to my TV. Great picture and sound, but the output of the 50V seems to be set to stereo... When I press mode: "mode for 2 ch input anthem-logic cinema".
> 
> 
> Sorry if this is such a trivial question, but I have been struggling with it for hours...
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> NYC Jazz



Sorry, forgot to add, that both inputs into the 50v are via HDMI as are the outputs into my av receiver (set to Direct mode, so it should get the raw decoded signal from the 50V)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21420259
> 
> 
> Sorry, forgot to add, that both inputs into the 50v are via HDMI as are the outputs into my av receiver (set to Direct mode, so it should get the raw decoded signal from the 50V)



Urh, why are you running the output from the AVM 50v through *ANOTHER* AV Receiver?


The HDMI output of the AVM 50v does indeed carry audio, but it is only a stereo down mix (2.0 LPCM). It is intended for people who directly connect to an HDMI TV and want to use the internal stereo speakers built into their TV.


The idea of having an AVM 50v is so that the AVM 50v will handle your audio. The multi-channel audio output of the AVM 50v is "line level" ANALOG audio -- intended to go to your power amp for your speakers (except for the subwoofer output that gets wired directly to the line-level input on your sub, which typically has its own, built in power amp).


If you are using your other receiver as a power amp then you want to connect the RCA jack main audio outputs (up to 8 cables) to the multi-channel analog inputs of your receiver.


I think you need to spend some quality time with the Connections descriptions and sample wiring diagrams in the AVM 50v manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21420092
> 
> 
> You are absolutely correct- the hdmi cables are very long going from the basement through the ceiling and up to the blu ray...i will check to see if everything is in accordance with what you describe above once the hdmi cables are back in place...by the way we did the firmware update for the blu ray and although there are some updates for the anthem avm 40 the dealer guy said they were not important and didn't update it...
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Arthur



Well long HDMI cables can definitely be a source of problems with 1080p video (and the audio signal embedded in it).


As I mentioned earlier, the correct firmware for your AVM 40 is V1.33. Press Select once on the AVM 40 remote and the firmware version will display in the Front Panel display.

--Bob


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21420338
> 
> 
> Urh, why are you running the output from the AVM 50v through *ANOTHER* AV Receiver?
> 
> 
> The HDMI output of the AVM 50v does indeed carry audio, but it is only a stereo down mix (2.0 LPCM). It is intended for people who directly connect to an HDMI TV and want to use the internal stereo speakers built into their TV.
> 
> 
> The idea of having an AVM 50v is so that the AVM 50v will handle your audio. The multi-channel audio output of the AVM 50v is "line level" ANALOG audio -- intended to go to your power amp for your speakers (except for the subwoofer output that gets wired directly to the line-level input on your sub, which typically has its own, built in power amp).
> 
> 
> If you are using your other receiver as a power amp then you want to connect the RCA jack main audio outputs (up to 8 cables) to the multi-channel analog inputs of your receiver.
> 
> 
> I think you need to spend some quality time with the Connections description and sample diagrams in the AVM 50v manual.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob! Yes, I am using the AV receiver as a power amp while I save for my dedicated amp







.


I will connect the analogue outputs of the 50v to my AV amp. In this kind of set up, should I wait until I get my dedicated amp to run ARC?


Thanks again. I have been a strict 2 channel guy for 25 years listening mostly to vinyl. My transition to multichannel has been a bit scary. Thanks for the support!!!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21420411
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob! Yes, I am using the AV receiver as a power amp while I save for my dedicated amp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> I will connect the analogue outputs of the 50v to my AV amp. In this kind of set up, should I wait until I get my dedicated amp to run ARC?
> 
> 
> Thanks again. I have been a strict 2 channel guy for 25 years listening mostly to vinyl. My transition to multichannel has been a bit scary. Thanks for the support!!!!!!



There's no need to wait to run ARC, however you should plan on redoing your ARC setup once your "real" power amp arrives.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21418147
> 
> 
> I believe ARC uses the first mic position for the speaker volume level trims so yes it is important.
> 
> 
> I don't think being in the room while measurements happen is a problem. After all you are in the room when you are listening so if your presence affects ARC measurement in any way then it should be there when you are listening too.



Being in the room while measurements happen may or may not be a problem. Remember, ARC is trying to correct for problems with the room. If you are in the room and possibly standing in a reflection point, then that may cause ARC to not apply corrections. I don't think highs will reflect off of a body; but, it will reflect off of a hard surface. If you are standing at the reflection point, then ARC probably will not hear the problem frequency. My preference is to not be in the room when the sweeps are occurring; but, if that's not possible, then you have to do what you have to do.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Bungee cords through the ceiling vents? You have to remember that not everyone here is a Ninja.










Many people simply get down on the floor while the ARC sweeps are running for each mic position.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21420460
> 
> 
> ^ Bungee cords through the ceiling vents? You have to remember that not everyone here is a Ninja.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many people simply get down on the floor while the ARC sweeps are running for each mic position.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I do have my secrets, that I can't share with anyone, on how I get out of the room without anyone noticing.


----------



## studlygoorite

We definately have some great people on this forum, nice to see.


----------



## ninja12

^We do our best.


----------



## [email protected]!

Hello,


i have a small problem with the "output resolution".

In anthem menu i have set the output on "1920 x 1080P 24hz" for blu-ray but when i play a SD-dvd disc the picture is a little bit shocking because the 24hz framerate. So i must set the output on "1920 x 1080P 50hz".


Is there a easier way to fix this? What is "Custom" in de output menu? is that the same as through? The "Auto" function doesn't work very well and that's not a option.


Thanks for the help....


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21420412
> 
> 
> Well long HDMI cables can definitely be a source of problems with 1080p video (and the audio signal embedded in it).
> 
> 
> As I mentioned earlier, the correct firmware for your AVM 40 is V1.33. Press Select once on the AVM 40 remote and the firmware version will display in the Front Panel display.
> 
> --Bob



yes- somewhere lost in the vast array of messages i have put out i indicated it is in fact v1.33... thanks!


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]!* /forum/post/21421599
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> i have a small problem with the "output resolution".
> 
> In anthem menu i have set the output on "1920 x 1080P 24hz" for blu-ray but when i play a SD-dvd disc the picture is a little bit shocking because the 24hz framerate. So i must set the output on "1920 x 1080P 50hz".
> 
> 
> Is there a easier way to fix this? What is "Custom" in de output menu? is that the same as through? The "Auto" function doesn't work very well and that's not a option.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help....



There are two video out configs. Set one up for 1080p24 and the other for 1080p60 (or 50 as applies to your country). Then in your source definition assign one of these outputs to the source. ie for your blue ray source (DVD1?) set it to use output config 1 assuming you have set it up for 1080p24 and your to source to use output config source 2 assuming you have it set for 1080p60. You could set up a DVD2 to use the same inputs as DVD1 but assign it to output config 2 if you are viewing a 1080p source on your bluray player.


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]!* /forum/post/21421599
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> i have a small problem with the "output resolution".
> 
> In anthem menu i have set the output on "1920 x 1080P 24hz" for blu-ray but when i play a SD-dvd disc the picture is a little bit shocking because the 24hz framerate. So i must set the output on "1920 x 1080P 50hz".
> 
> 
> Is there a easier way to fix this? What is "Custom" in de output menu? is that the same as through? The "Auto" function doesn't work very well and that's not a option.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help....



Make another input for the player use the 50 or 60 hz and assign it to the same source. Then use one for blu rays and one for DVDs.


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/21420566
> 
> 
> We definately have some great people on this forum, nice to see.



I agree 100%... really nice knowledgeable people


----------



## thestewman

Originally Posted by [email protected]!

Hello,


i have a small problem with the "output resolution".

In anthem menu i have set the output on "1920 x 1080P 24hz" for blu-ray but when i play a SD-dvd disc the picture is a little bit shocking because the 24hz framerate. So i must set the output on "1920 x 1080P 50hz".


Is there a easier way to fix this? What is "Custom" in de output menu? is that the same as through? The "Auto" function doesn't work very well and that's not a option.


Thanks for the help....


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21421901
> 
> 
> There are two video out configs. Set one up for 1080p24 and the other for 1080p60 (or 50 as applies to your country). Then in your source definition assign one of these outputs to the source. ie for your blue ray source (DVD1?) set it to use output config 1 assuming you have set it up for 1080p24 and your to source to use output config source 2 assuming you have it set for 1080p60. You could set up a DVD2 to use the same inputs as DVD1 but assign it to output config 2 if you are viewing a 1080p source on your bluray player.



If your not familiar with the setup instructions

First follow the instructions in the manual on Page 18

Setting Configuration #1 as 1920 X 1080P 24hz then

Setting Configuration #2 as 1920 X 1080P 50hz


Then follow the instructions on page 32

Set DVD Source #1 to configuration #1 then

Set DVD Source #2 to Configuration #2

By selecting and pressing multiple times the DVD source button on the remote you can now instantly scroll through the format you need for the video in your player


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21422826
> 
> 
> I agree 100%... really nice knowledgeable people



I truly believe we are all following in the footsteps of Bob Pariseau and emulating the style he has established on this forum


Stew


----------



## Bob Pariseau

We here at "Bob Pariseau" thank you for your kind words.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21422936
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by [email protected]!
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> i have a small problem with the "output resolution".
> 
> In anthem menu i have set the output on "1920 x 1080P 24hz" for blu-ray but when i play a SD-dvd disc the picture is a little bit shocking because the 24hz framerate. So i must set the output on "1920 x 1080P 50hz".
> 
> 
> Is there a easier way to fix this? What is "Custom" in de output menu? is that the same as through? The "Auto" function doesn't work very well and that's not a option.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help....
> 
> 
> 
> If your not familiar with the setup instructions
> 
> First follow the instructions in the manual on Page 18
> 
> Setting Configuration #1 as 1920 X 1080P 24hz then
> 
> Setting Configuration #2 as 1920 X 1080P 50hz
> 
> 
> Then follow the instructions on page 32
> 
> Set DVD Source #1 to configuration #1 then
> 
> Set DVD Source #2 to Configuration #2
> 
> By selecting and pressing multiple times the DVD source button on the remote you can now instantly scroll through the format you need for the video in your player



To add to the above:


In the Appendix at the back of the manual you will find three button sequences for directly selecting these multiple sources -- e.g., directly selecting DVD 2 without having to press the DVD button an unknown number of times. These three button sequences are useful if using a programmable remote control for example.


On top of that, there are a set of "shortcuts" hidden under the Mode button. See the write up at the very end of Section 4.11 in the Manual. One of these allows you to view the currently selected Video Output Configuration (out of the set of up to 4 of them) and change that selection on the fly using the Up/Down arrows.

--Bob


----------



## [email protected]!

Guy's thanks for the help now i get it







I have 2 players so thats why it was a little bit difficult.


config 1 is set to 1920x1080 24hz (for HD)

config 2 is set to 1920x1080 50hz ( for SD)


dvd1 = oppo 95 (hdmi 1)

dvd2 = sony s5000es (hdmi 2)


So it is now:


dvd1 = hdmi 1 = config 1

dvd2 = hdmi 1 = config 2

dvd3 = hdmi 2 = config 1

dvd4 = hdmi 2 = config 2


It's logical now i see it










Thanks and Happy New year!! for me about 2 hours from now.


Martin.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21405338
> 
> 
> Arthurrubenstein
> 
> 
> OK It is my turn to show my pride and joy. Nine components are controlled by the Anthem D2v. Five are by HDMI. There are 3 units which have analog direct inputs and one 6 channel analog setup.
> 
> All done by myself and I am not in the industry.
> 
> My priority was to have it neat and easily accessible for any changes which have been pretty often since I like to pursue better and better sound.



Stew ... ( if you don't mind), who makes your rack? It looks nice and i'm in the market for one. Does it have fans at the top or is it air-conditioned somehow?


David


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21423884
> 
> 
> Stew ... ( if you don't mind), who makes your rack? It looks nice and i'm in the market for one. Does it have fans at the top or is it air-conditioned somehow?
> 
> 
> David



The rack is a Middle Atlantic Slim 5-43 which is 73" high. They build a terrific product. Go to their web site and download Rack tools 3.5 their design tool. You can drag and drop all the components and custom build your rack. They have most of the face plates already laser cut to fit. Any they do not have, if you ship them your component they custom laser cut the plate and ship everything back prepaid. Shop around for each of the items you need there are some suppliers who competitively price the parts. I can advise on the pricing by PM if you want.

Another point I need to make. Almost every unit you see in my jpg is sitting on a shelve so the face plate is not supporting the unit.

I have fans on the top cover which help but since there are no sides and no back any air brought in front thru the bottom front vents does not adequately cool the rack. Middle Atlantic makes a cooling unit that works great and is thermostatically controlled called Duct Cool.


Stew


----------



## Lefreck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21420338
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> The HDMI output of the AVM 50v does indeed carry audio, but it is only a stereo down mix (2.0 LPCM). It is intended for people who directly connect to an HDMI TV and want to use the internal stereo speakers built into their TV.
> 
> ...
> 
> --Bob



While I understand this feature I think it should be possible to disable the audio output on the HDMI output. I've added volume up and down buttons on my Harmony remote for my Panasonic Plasma...


I have the D2V now for a couple of weeks and this is one of the things I don't like, but I think (and hope) this could be changed via firmware update.


Other things that get me annoyed:

- HDMI audio from my Tvix is not recognized, so I had to connect a coax digital cable to get any sound from this box.

- HDMI audio from my cable box (Technisat) is very randomly recognized. I guess I have to install another coax/optical cable.

- No HDMI video passthrough: I've opted for the "Auto"-res output in my video config 1. I use this setting for my Oppo BD-83SE and while this is mainly OK, there is judder on horizontal pans with 24p material (hope the expressions are correct, English is not my native language). I've read on the last pages here, that it is preferable to not use the "auto"-output, but that means you have to define 3 video res/rates: [email protected] for movies, [email protected](concerts) and [email protected](europ. video productions & dvds).


All of this was much easier with my DVDO Edge( no problems in recognizing HDMI-audio from TVIX and Technisat and working at native refreshrate), so I'm a little bit disappointed here...

What's really fantastic on the D2V is the movie sound, so not everything is bad


----------



## mkaye

i loaded 2.12x on my D2v last week & am having trouble with the HDMI connection to my media tank (HDX-1000)

i have to reboot the NMT to get a proper handshake, switching inputs will not do it


mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Be sure to report such problems direct to Anthem. Do not assume Anthem will see reports against the "test" software that are only posted here

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lefreck* /forum/post/21425721
> 
> 
> While I understand this feature I think it should be possible to disable the audio output on the HDMI output. I've added volume up and down buttons on my Harmony remote for my Panasonic Plasma...
> 
> 
> I have the D2V now for a couple of weeks and this is one of the things I don't like, but I think (and hope) this could be changed via firmware update.
> 
> 
> Other things that get me annoyed:
> 
> - HDMI audio from my Tvix is not recognized, so I had to connect a coax digital cable to get any sound from this box.
> 
> - HDMI audio from my cable box (Technisat) is very randomly recognized. I guess I have to install another coax/optical cable.
> 
> - No HDMI video passthrough: I've opted for the "Auto"-res output in my video config 1. I use this setting for my Oppo BD-83SE and while this is mainly OK, there is judder on horizontal pans with 24p material (hope the expressions are correct, English is not my native language). I've read on the last pages here, that it is preferable to not use the "auto"-output, but that means you have to define 3 video res/rates: [email protected] for movies, [email protected](concerts) and [email protected](europ. video productions & dvds).
> 
> 
> All of this was much easier with my DVDO Edge( no problems in recognizing HDMI-audio from TVIX and Technisat and working at native refreshrate), so I'm a little bit disappointed here...
> 
> What's really fantastic on the D2V is the movie sound, so not everything is bad



Disabling audio on the Anthem's HDMI output has been requested before. I imagine it is in the list somewhere.


If you don't actually want to use the speakers built-into your display, be aware that most modern displays with built-in speakers have a simple setting for turning off those speakers. It is usually labeled something like External Speakers or Stereo System (meaning something outside the TV is handling the speakers).


-------------------------------------


It has been posted here that the firmware update which supports 3D video "pass through" will be usable for non-3D video as well, even in units that do not have the 3D hardware upgrade, to provide video pass through. Of course that also means bypassing any video processing in the D2v.


-------------------------------------


I don't know what a Tvix is, but HDMI audio from cable TV boxes is simple. It is either stereo LPCM or DD 2.0/5.1. If the D2v is having trouble getting audio from the cable box the odds are it is a problem in the implementation of HDMI in the cable box -- or an HDMI cabling problem, although that usually show up in video first. Lots, and I do mean *LOTS* of cable TV boxes out there have crufty implementations of HDMI. Rather than fighting that, it is almost always better to just use optical/coax digital audio from such a box just as you are planning on doing. The digital audio that comes over optical/coax from such a box is identical to what would be on the HDMI anyway -- another reason to believe it is not the Anthem that is having trouble recognizing the audio but rather the cable box having trouble getting its HDMI act together.


Since it worked before with your Edge, you might want to revisit cables. Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so it could be the HDMI cables on either side of the D2v contributing to the problem. But odds are the cable box is simply getting confused because the Edge doesn't present the range of audio formats to it that the D2v does. Of course the cable box isn't using all those choices but it still has to handle the list that's presented.

--Bob


----------



## Lefreck

Thanks alot Bob for the quick reply on a 1st of January... I really appreciate! The DVICO TVIX S1 is a media player...

The only "sure" way to get audio via HDMI from the cable box to the D2V is "cutting" the power off the cable box...

Passthrough would be fine as I think the videoprocessing in the Oppo is good enough. In my former setup, I connected the Oppo directly in the TV via HDMI, but I have to connect it to theD2V to get High def audio...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lefreck* /forum/post/21426583
> 
> 
> Thanks alot Bob for the quick reply on a 1st of January... I really appreciate! The DVICO TVIX S1 is a media player...
> 
> The only "sure" way to get audio via HDMI from the cable box to the D2V is "cutting" the power off the cable box...
> 
> Passthrough would be fine as I think the videoprocessing in the Oppo is good enough. In my former setup, I connected the Oppo directly in the TV via HDMI, but I have to connect it to theD2V to get High def audio...



You also have the option of switching to the Oppo 93 or 95 which have dual HDMI outputs. Wire HDMI 1 directly to the display, and HDMI 2 to the Anthem for audio.

--Bob


----------



## petrostheplumber

hi friends i'm new here and i just want to ring in and say that i tried to read the thread....and my brain exploded...(just kidding) well i have a simple question to ask i'm looking at 2 different systems for my home theater the bryston sp3 with the 4b and 6b amps, or the anthem d2v processors with the p5 amp.....i have the oppo 95 player and a vt30 65" flatscreen i like good sound but i also want to get the most out of the system i can without running into a lot of problems....oh and i'm running a 5.1 system mains center 2 rears and 2 subs....i hope some of you might be able to ring in and give some opinions.....thanks.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *petrostheplumber* /forum/post/21428516
> 
> 
> hi friends i'm new here and i just want to ring in and say that i tried to read the thread....and my brain exploded...(just kidding) well i have a simple question to ask i'm looking at 2 different systems for my home theater the bryston sp3 with the 4b and 6b amps, or the anthem d2v processors with the p5 amp.....i have the oppo 95 player and a vt30 65" flatscreen i like good sound but i also want to get the most out of the system i can without running into a lot of problems....oh and i'm running a 5.1 system mains center 2 rears and 2 subs....i hope some of you might be able to ring in and give some opinions.....thanks.



Both the Anthem D2v and the Bryston SP3 are excellent pieces of equipment.

The Bryston SP3 is an audio only processor where as the Anthem D2v has video processing built-in. The Anthem has ARC to process the digital sound for your room characteristics. Both have analog audio pass through with only the Volume control effective on the signal and neither uses a digital volume control so there is no loss of audio performance. I have the D2v and use 2 Bryston 7B mono amps for stereo and a Bryston 9B for the surround audio.

The Bryston SP3 is more expensive. Both companies have excellent customer service and support.

I suggest you find a dealer and listen to each carefully with the sources you intend to listen to.


----------



## Texas steve

I had a similar problem with W and X and have advised Nick. On my D2V HDMI in simply would not work. The graphic overlay (volume, etc) shows up on HDMI1 out. Went back to 2.11 and all is fine again. So it appears there is a issue



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/21425824
> 
> 
> i loaded 2.12x on my D2v last week & am having trouble with the HDMI connection to my media tank (HDX-1000)
> 
> i have to reboot the NMT to get a proper handshake, switching inputs will not do it
> 
> 
> mark


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *petrostheplumber* /forum/post/21428516
> 
> 
> hi friends i'm new here and i just want to ring in and say that i tried to read the thread....and my brain exploded...(just kidding) well i have a simple question to ask i'm looking at 2 different systems for my home theater the bryston sp3 with the 4b and 6b amps, or the anthem d2v processors with the p5 amp.....i have the oppo 95 player and a vt30 65" flatscreen i like good sound but i also want to get the most out of the system i can without running into a lot of problems....oh and i'm running a 5.1 system mains center 2 rears and 2 subs....i hope some of you might be able to ring in and give some opinions.....thanks.



Both are two good amps. I don't think you can go wrong with either. The Brystons are 300 watts into 8ohms and 500 watts into 4 ohms. The Anthem P5 is 325 watts into 8ohms, 500 watts into 4ohms, and 675 watts into 2ohms. With the Anthem, you will need on piece of equipment to drive your system. With the Bryston, that you are looking at, you will need 2 pieces of equipment to drive your system. The P5s are monoblocks and use two power cords, and recommends a 30 amp power outlet since it requires 3600 watts when driven to its' max. However, the Bryston does have a 20 year warranty which is very nice. If you could listen to them both, that would be best and would really help in you in making your decision.


Good luck to you!!!


----------



## dkojevnikov

I am curious if using 5.1 + THX cinema instead of just 5.1 (or PLIIx + THX vs PLIIx) change the crossover frequency to 80Hz or it leaves crossovers unchanged from what it was set for each set of speakers by ARC? Does Anthem change target curve when THX is on (i.e. in 5.1 + THX cinema)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21430676
> 
> 
> I am curious if using 5.1 + THX cinema instead of just 5.1 (or PLIIx + THX vs PLIIx) change the crossover frequency to 80Hz or it leaves crossovers unchanged from what it was set for each set of speakers by ARC? Does Anthem change target curve when THX is on (i.e. in 5.1 + THX cinema)?



It does not change the crossovers.


The "THX" brand label is slapped on a variety of different things. In this case it refers to THX audio post-processing as described in the Anthem Manual (Section 4.8.6). (As opposed to THX bass management recommendations or THX certification of subwoofers or THX certification of receivers, or..... THX makes money from lots of distinct uses of that logo.)


NOTE that a number of items described in that Section only apply if you have a 7.1 speaker system and are playing content which has fewer than 7.1 active channels.


ALSO NOTE that THX Re-equalization is one piece of that post-processing which is separated out from the others. You can turn the THX RE-equalization ON or OFF for a given audio input format regardless of whether the rest of the THX post processing is enabled. Press the THX button TWICE to view/change the current re-equalization setting.


ALSO ALSO NOTE that some of the Audio Surround Modes in the Anthem will only be available when THX post processing is turned OFF. MONO-ACADEMY mode is one that comes to mind.


My personal preference is to not use THX post processing any more, now that we've got ARC refining the quality of the surround speakers. In addition, THX Re-equalization is *USUALLY* not necessary when playing movies, as movies on disc and on TV are typically ALREADY re-equalized for home theater use -- i.e., the modest treble boost added for playback in theaters has already been removed. The exception tends to be old, 4:3 movies predating 1950, which may still retain the much more aggressive "Academy" treble boost for theaters. Use MONO-ACADEMY mode to adjust those and get rid of that hissy, brassy, olde-timey sound that results from leaving the theater treble boost in place. Regular TV shows (not movies) never need re-equalization.

--Bob


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21431530
> 
> 
> It does not change the crossovers.
> 
> 
> My personal preference is to not use THX post processing any more, now that we've got ARC refining the quality of the surround speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob. So if I have 5.1 speaker set and Re-Equalization off, will there be any difference in sound between 5.1 and (5.1 + THX)? Or this difference will be not noticeable in most cases? I understand that ARC is trying to normalize all speakers frequencies to a some predefined curve. With 5.1 + THX, will it try to match timbre of surrounds with mains to an even greater extent which still could be negligible as ARC already did its job?

And the last question about surround modes. If I have a 5.1 source and PlIIx switched on, will it down mix the 5.1 signal to 2.1 and apply PlIIx or it will just skip any additional processing if 5.1 source is detected?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21431766
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob. So if I have 5.1 speaker set and Re-Equalization off, will there be any difference in sound between 5.1 and (5.1 + THX)? Or this difference will be not noticeable in most cases? I understand that ARC is trying to normalize all speakers frequencies to a some predefined curve. With 5.1 + THX, will it try to match timbre of surrounds with mains to an even greater extent which still could be negligible as ARC already did its job?
> 
> And the last question about surround modes. If I have a 5.1 source and PlIIx switched on, will it down mix the 5.1 signal to 2.1 and apply PlIIx or it will just skip any additional processing if 5.1 source is detected?



If you have 5.1 speakers and play 5.1 content, PLIIx mode will not be available. The Anthem will automatically switch to using NONE surround mode.


I think 5.1 content played into 5.1 speakers (via ARC) sounds better with THX audio post-processing *OFF*. This sort of stuff is personal preference, so try it and hear for yourself.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21424487
> 
> 
> The rack is a Middle Atlantic Slim 5-43 which is 73" high. They build a terrific product. Go to their web site and download Rack tools 3.5 their design tool. You can drag and drop all the components and custom build your rack. They have most of the face plates already laser cut to fit. Any they do not have, if you ship them your component they custom laser cut the plate and ship everything back prepaid. Shop around for each of the items you need there are some suppliers who competitively price the parts. I can advise on the pricing by PM if you want.
> 
> Another point I need to make. Almost every unit you see in my jpg is sitting on a shelve so the face plate is not supporting the unit.
> 
> I have fans on the top cover which help but since there are no sides and no back any air brought in front thru the bottom front vents does not adequately cool the rack. Middle Atlantic makes a cooling unit that works great and is thermostatically controlled called Duct Cool.
> 
> 
> Stew



Stew:


Thanks so much. I will download their tool and play with it a bit. I will contact you via PM on pricing tips once i've settled on the configuration i want.


Thanks again ...

- David


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you have 5.1 speakers and play 5.1 content, PLIIx mode will not be available. The Anthem will automatically switch to using NONE surround mode.
> 
> 
> I think 5.1 content played into 5.1 speakers (via ARC) sounds better with THX audio post-processing *OFF*. This sort of stuff is personal preference, so try it and hear for yourself.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob, I have a quick question. My D2 has been at Anthem for 3 weeks. I can't get the HDMI image to stabilize or be consistent on my me Samsung PN64d8000 plasma. After being there for all this time, there telling me it works fine on older sets, but not on the newer ones and its a software issue. So the need to release a software fix. Does this sound right? Have you heard of any other D2 issues like this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I have not heard of issues like this.

--Bob


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^ I have not heard of issues like this.
> 
> --Bob



Am I getting the run around


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Why on earth would you think that? Sounds to me like they are telling you they are working the issue.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21435070
> 
> 
> Am I getting the run around



It doesn't sound like you are getting the run around to me. They have isolated your problem, and they are telling you that they need to make a change to the software to fix it. How is that getting the run around?


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why on earth would you think that? Sounds to me like they are telling you they are working the issue.
> 
> --Bob



I don't know. I'm just a little stir crazy I guess from being without through the holidays and now finding out it can be months before this is resolved.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21435097
> 
> 
> I don't know. I'm just a little stir crazy I guess from being without through the holidays and now finding out it can be months before this is resolved.



Let's hope that it will not take months for them to resolve the issue for you. Depending on the complexity of the software change, they might work out a deal for you to upgrade to the D2v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There's got to be something more going on here than is suggested in the post above. If the D2 had a systemic problem with "newer displays" we'd be seeing much more howling in this thread.


By the way, Anthem has, in the past, been known to make quick fix "test" releases available to individual customers. So don't despair yet.

--Bob


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There's got to be something more going on here than is suggested in the post above. If the D2 had a systemic problem with "newer displays" we'd be seeing much more howling in this thread.
> 
> 
> By the way, Anthem has, in the past, been known to make quick fix "test" releases available to individual customers. So don't despair yet.
> 
> --Bob



Thats my point. I would think that many more people would be having the same sort of issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sure, but obviously Anthem tech support gains nothing by holding on to your unit to no good purpose. There's no reason to be suspicious. They're working the problem.


I suspect there's something peculiar about what you are trying to do that has not come out here. You may not even know it. This is not to slight your post. It's just that it's likely the issue is more complicated than simply the D2 not working with newer displays.

--Bob


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sure, but obviously Anthem tech support gains nothing by holding on to your unit to no good purpose. There's no reason to be suspicious. They're working the problem.
> 
> 
> I suspect there's something peculiar about what you are trying to do that has not come out here. You may not even know it. This is not to slight your post. It's just that it's likely the issue is more complicated than simply the D2 not working with newer displays.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, well they gave me the option to keep it and send it back once the software is written and loaded or send it back now and send me a patch. They said they have 3 D2's with similar issues. So I'm having them send it back.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well like I said this is news to me. But if they've got three examples of whatever the problem is, that should make it easier for them to generate the fix.

--Bob


----------



## gdc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21420466
> 
> 
> Yes, I do have my secrets, that I can't share with anyone, on how I get out of the room without anyone noticing.



My technique for staying out of the room during each ARC pass - I use a USB wireless mouse on my laptop, and drag the laptop over near the doorway. For each position, I place the mouse pointer over the OK button in the dialog box while sitting just outside of the room. (The mouse is on a pad so it doesn't move once I position it.) I close the door, carefully click on the mouse, and go do something else for five minutes. Rinse and repeat.


For those with larger rooms, you may need a USB extension for the ARC mike and a serial extension for the AV/D cable.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> My technique for staying out of the room during each ARC pass - I use a USB wireless mouse on my laptop, and drag the laptop over near the doorway. For each position, I place the mouse pointer over the OK button in the dialog box while sitting just outside of the room. (The mouse is on a pad so it doesn't move once I position it.) I close the door, carefully click on the mouse, and go do something else for five minutes. Rinse and repeat.
> 
> 
> For those with larger rooms, you may need a USB extension for the ARC mike and a serial extension for the AV/D cable.



My technique exactly









John


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/21435443
> 
> 
> My technique for staying out of the room during each ARC pass - I use a USB wireless mouse on my laptop, and drag the laptop over near the doorway. For each position, I place the mouse pointer over the OK button in the dialog box while sitting just outside of the room. (The mouse is on a pad so it doesn't move once I position it.) I close the door, carefully click on the mouse, and go do something else for five minutes. Rinse and repeat.



I guess I'm lucky. I have a small 6x12 media storage/equipment room off my theater. I have full access to the back of my equipment rack I just sit back there with my laptop.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If that space has a door to your main listening room, be sure that door is closed when you run the ARC sweeps (just as it would be in normal use) or you will get strange bass results.


I had a similar sized storage area off a prior listening room, and if I forgot and left that door open, all my 50Hz went in there to hide.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21436875
> 
> 
> ^ If that space has a door to your main listening room, be sure that door is closed when you run the ARC sweeps (just as it would be in normal use) or you will get strange bass results.
> 
> 
> I had a similar sized storage area off a prior listening room, and if I forgot and left that door open, all my 50Hz went in there to hide.
> 
> --Bob



Come on Bob, your 50Hz was just playing Hide and Seek with you!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm embarrassed to admit how long it took me to figure out why I kept getting ARC results that were inconsistent at 50Hz. By a lot.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21436985
> 
> 
> I'm embarrassed to admit how long it took me to figure out why I kept getting ARC results that were inconsistent at 50Hz. By a lot.
> 
> --Bob



It's a lesson that you will never forget.


----------



## spiderv6

This ARC in the room/out of the room topic comes up every few months and it cracks me up the length some people go to!


I'm pretty sure that once you are ready to sit down and listen to some music or watch a movie, you will actually be *in* the room.....presumably disrupting and un-doing all of your efforts










Way too serious guys!


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/21438091
> 
> 
> This ARC in the room/out of the room topic comes up every few months and it cracks me up the length some people go to!
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure that once you are ready to sit down and listen to some music or watch a movie, you will actually be *in* the room.....presumably disrupting and un-doing all of your efforts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Way too serious guys!



If you're looking to stamp out OCD in your lifetime, this is probably *not* the right thread to start with.


It's probably best if you just humor us as we seek perfection in an imperfect world.










Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21438195
> 
> 
> If you're looking to stamp out OCD in your lifetime, this is probably *not* the right thread to start with.
> 
> 
> It's probably best if you just humor us as we seek perfection in an imperfect world.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



You want to experience OCD or maybe listen to fanaticism. Visit the LCD Flat Panel or the OVER $3000.00 projector forums.


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You want to experience OCD or maybe listen to fanaticism. Visit the LCD Flat Panel or the OVER $3000.00 projector forums.



Agreed. I've been looking at projectors recently and those pages make this one child's play!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Although of course the room conditions will vary during actual listening in ways that aren't worth worrying bout -- number of people in the room, their seating locations, ambient noises and such, food being eaten -- that does *NOT* mean you should be cavalier about conditions while you are taking ARC Measurements.


First of all, eliminate ambient noises, and yes that includes talking. Pay particular attention to mechanical noises that might produce bass you've simply gotten used to and don't hear any more. Refrigerators and heating/air-conditioning are probably the biggies here. And of course turn off the phone and send the kids and pets someplace else.


ARC makes multiple sweeps for each speaker and mic location, which helps it eliminate some ambient noise, but if you can keep the noise from happening in the first place, that's better.


The mic is an "omnidirectional" mic. It pretty much hears everything in the hemisphere above the mic tip. The mic calibration acts to correct variations in the mic's polar response with frequency. For this to work it's important the mic is pointed straight up. Noises from below the mic tip pretty much don't get heard unless they are reflected up and back down again. This is one reason why you want the mic tip at seated ear height. The most important sound the mic hears is of course the direct sound coming from each speaker.


You wouldn't turn a speaker off or throw a blanket over and it do your ARC Measurements, so also don't stand between the speaker and the mic. Given the mic's response, getting down on the floor is usually a good method to insure you are entirely out of the way.


A small number of mic positions attempts to model the entire listening area. That gives the data from each mic position added importance. Some care taken to make sure the mic is properly positioned, not distracted by ambient noise, and not blocked from hearing what it needs to hear from each speaker will result in better data and a better solution.


When you are using the home theater, you likely won't take that much care. Just use the room and enjoy it. But when you are doing the setup you WANT to be particular. The solution can't be any better than the data the mic hears.


If you play something you really want to hear well, you will stop moving, shut up and listen and enjoy. You won't be that careful all the time you are listening. But when it matters, you will be. But you can't tell ARC, "I really want to hear this; pretend I wasn't so sloppy when I did the ARC setup." It's too late.

--Bob


----------



## Grifo

is there any "scaler off" option in the D2v

so that you can use only the audio components

of the preamp. like in other hi end processors without

a video section?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Grifo* /forum/post/21440152
> 
> 
> is there any "scaler off" option in the D2v
> 
> so that you can use only the audio components
> 
> of the preamp. like in other hi end processors without
> 
> a video section?



There is not.


As fas as I can recall, nobody who has tested the D2v has discovered any artifacts in the audio due to the presence of the video board.

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Grifo* /forum/post/21440152
> 
> 
> is there any "scaler off" option in the D2v
> 
> so that you can use only the audio components
> 
> of the preamp. like in other hi end processors without
> 
> a video section?



When the upgrade for 3D comes out shortly (a month?) there will be a "through" mode.


----------



## Grifo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21440195
> 
> 
> 
> As fas as I can recall, nobody who has tested the D2v has discovered any artifacts in the audio due to the presence of the video board.
> 
> --Bob



No, I don't mean artifacts in the audio but in the video obtained

From an external videoprocessor...

Anyway if a pass through is coming with the 3d upgrade

I' m really happy... And that proves that some problem exists...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Grifo* /forum/post/21440774
> 
> 
> No, I don't mean artifacts in the audio but in the video obtained
> 
> From an external videoprocessor...
> 
> Anyway if a pass through is coming with the 3d upgrade
> 
> I' m really happy... *And that proves that some problem exists*...



Urh, I think you just jumped to a conclusion there.


"Pass through" is being added because 3D video streams are not suitable for processing. Since it is being added for 3D, Anthem is also making it available on 2D for any user who wants to give it a try.


NOTE: If you are using HDMI for audio, then the video system is still in the signal path even with "pass through". That's because HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the "blanking intervals" of HDMI video -- even if that video is just a constant black screen. And so the HDMI input has to be processed enough to extract the audio from the video. "Pass through" simply means the video is not further processed beyond that except as is necessary to re-buffer the HDMI output.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite

Well I have some bad news.....for me.


I have always had HDMI problems with my computer going through my D2v to my Epson 6500 projector but they were toleratable and now I have purchased a new 3D projector the Epson 6010 and every morning I have no picture with a re-boot of the computer being the only thing that would fix it. The computer has an HDMI out and I thought maybe the video card was over heating or something as I leave it on all the time. I got rid of Vista and replaced it with Windows 7 but the projector would still not show the computer after sitting overnight with a power on of the D2v and projector in the morning. I decided to run another HDMI directly from the computer to the projector, bypassing the D2v and have not had a problem since. Sure looks like the D2v is to blame here again as I bet if I dropped my old Denon in there I would not have this problem. Sad too see things even get worse with newer equipment, bought a new HDMI cable with no affect. I have been through this for a couple years now and have all my settings correct in the D2v per Anthem Support but after this I have to wonder wtf. I am now going to peruse other options, PM me if you are interested in my D2v


John


----------



## JimP

Studlygoorite,


Just to ask the obvious, when you turn on your home theater, do you turn on the computer last?


Edit: what am I thinking.....PM me how much you want for your D2V.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimP* /forum/post/21442965
> 
> 
> Studlygoorite,
> 
> 
> Just to ask the obvious, when you turn on your home theater, do you turn on the computer last?
> 
> 
> Edit: what am I thinking.....PM me how much you want for your D2V.



He said he leaves the computer on all the time.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/21442858
> 
> 
> I have always had HDMI problems with my computer going through my D2v to my Epson 6500 projector but they were toleratable and now I have purchased a new 3D projector the Epson 6010 and every morning I have no picture with a re-boot of the computer being the only thing that would fix it.



Sounds like an old and very familiar problem where certain video cards expect to see a captive monitor and don't like it when a repeater, switch, power cycle etc is involved (contrary to the hot-plugging requirement in HDMI - a repeater is a device with both HDMI inputs and outputs). We have seen patterns according to video card manufacturer and model series - contact tech support if details are needed. There's nothing we can do about that problem and it's not unique to Anthem.


This device's predecessor, the Gefen DVI Detective, was a known solution in such cases and the latest HDMI version may also be the answer for newer systems:

http://www.gefen.com/kvm/dproduct.jsp?prod_id=8005


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdc* /forum/post/21435443
> 
> 
> My technique for staying out of the room during each ARC pass - I use a USB wireless mouse on my laptop, and drag the laptop over near the doorway. For each position, I place the mouse pointer over the OK button in the dialog box while sitting just outside of the room. (The mouse is on a pad so it doesn't move once I position it.) I close the door, carefully click on the mouse, and go do something else for five minutes. Rinse and repeat.
> 
> 
> For those with larger rooms, you may need a USB extension for the ARC mike and a serial extension for the AV/D cable.



me hides behind the main listening couch, being assualted by the high squeeky sweeps from all speakers including the rears







, trying to see if i can pass the time finding enjoyable rhythms in these high pitched squills. Haven't been successful so far







.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21435365
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, well they gave me the option to keep it and send it back once the software is written and loaded or send it back now and send me a patch. They said they have 3 D2's with similar issues. So I'm having them send it back.



To clarify, the issue was reproduced with other D2s at hand but this is not meant to imply that it's a D2 issue or that engineering is looking at it right now. It's merely a confirmation that it's not a unit-specific hardware issue.


Though quite rare with displays made in the last 2-3 years, this appears to be an HDMI interoperability issue which is nothing new. We have seen plenty of cases where the D2 had issues when connected to certain brand projectors and flat panels (small number of them but certainly a pattern). The most common fix was actually a software fix supplied by the display manufacturer.


Related: The same can be said for cable boxes and satellite receivers. Historically, just-released models have more problems than their predecessors and though we have done -- and undone -- workarounds in the past, even for MRX receivers only a few months ago, I really can't remember any cases where the real fix didn't come from the cable/sat provider, over time. For the longest time the service provider's response was "HDMI unsupported, use component" but with a recent 3D-capable model, DirecTV actually said on their site that there were issues with all AVRs and certain named TV brands (we've been saying it since the D2's intro in 2005...). We provided a workaround, and only days later DirecTV provided a fix negating ours. This is nothing new, since HDMI appeared.


So frankly, when something such as v1.33 appears broken all of a sudden due to the introduction of new connected devices, the best approach on our part, in my opinion, is to wait and see.


----------



## barhoram

Anyone have audio issues playing Midnight in Paris on a D2? This is a DTS HD 3.0 (woody allen special) title. I'm trying to playback through an Oppo 93 Blu Ray player with HDMI audio set to LCPM on the Oppo. Audio in the Previews play fine. Audio on on the Menu plays fine. When I start the movie, there is no sound whatsoever. I've turned on and off the D2 and Anthem several times...but can't seem to get any sound. A quick check over on the Oppo thread doesnt seem to indicate others with the same problem. Any ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone have audio issues playing Midnight in Paris on a D2? This is a DTS HD 3.0 (woody allen special) title. I'm trying to playback through an Oppo 93 Blu Ray player with HDMI audio set to LCPM on the Oppo. Audio in the Previews play fine. Audio on on the Menu plays fine. When I start the movie, there is no sound whatsoever. I've turned on and off the D2 and Anthem several times...but can't seem to get any sound. A quick check over on the Oppo thread doesnt seem to indicate others with the same problem. Any ideas?



The OPPO 93 decodes that as 5.1 LPCM with silence in LS/RS/LFE. Your D2 will see 5.1 LPCM input which it handles just fine. I've tested it on a D2v, not a D2, but there's nothing in that audio input your D2 hasn't seen many times before.


When you press Select multiple times on the D2 remote, what does it say is coming in as audio input? There was new OPPO firmware put out before Christmas, are you using that?

--Bob


----------



## Grifo

well, I understand what Bob wrote about

the pass through mode..

I just wonder if, to keep unchanged a video signal processed by an external

video processor (radiance or other ones), it's better a pre only audio (like the Cary Cinema 12) or it can be enough the pass through coming in the D2v


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Grifo* /forum/post/21445471
> 
> 
> well, I understand what Bob wrote about
> 
> the pass through mode..
> 
> I just wonder if, to keep unchanged a video signal processed by an external
> 
> video processor (radiance or other ones), it's better a pre only audio (like the Cary Cinema 12) or it can be enough the pass through coming in the D2v



I think what Bob was saying was that if you are using HDMI _any_ piece of equipment will be processing the signal to extract audio or video.


----------



## rovingtravler

There is a lot of talk on the web about that BD (woody Allan) that LPCM will not work properly. A friend had to change to Bitstream (low bot rate/core audio) in order to watch it. It is the BD that does not play nice with a lot of equipment.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/21446568
> 
> 
> There is a lot of talk on the web about that BD (woody Allan) that LPCM will not work properly. A friend had to change to Bitstream (low bot rate/core audio) in order to watch it. It is the BD that does not play nice with a lot of equipment.



I'll give it a TRY TONIGHT and Report Back


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/21446568
> 
> 
> There is a lot of talk on the web about that BD (woody Allan) that LPCM will not work properly. A friend had to change to Bitstream (low bot rate/core audio) in order to watch it. It is the BD that does not play nice with a lot of equipment.



Is this on the Blu-Ray Version or DVD version?


----------



## dkojevnikov

I ran ARC on my AVM 50V and it set my center response cutoff to 70Hz (PMC) and mains cutoff to 60Hz (Harbeth), also subwoofer response cutoff to 120Hz (although subwoofer crossover was set to 70Hz). I am wondering would it be reasonable to set both cutoffs for center and mains manually to 70 Hz just to make ARC's life easier (having crossover set to the same for mains, center and subwoofer would simplify the calculation of filters I guess)?

In addition to that I have an urge to raise the MAX EQ frequency to 7Khz from 5Khz to smooth high-frequency peak on my surrounds, it it something that worth trying to do or microphone behaviour above 5KHz can be misleading so it is better to leave everything above 5Khz as it is?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21446800
> 
> 
> I ran ARC on my AVM 50V and it set my center response cutoff to 70Hz (PMC) and mains cutoff to 60Hz (Harbeth), also subwoofer response cutoff to 120Hz (although subwoofer crossover was set to 70Hz). I am wondering would it be reasonable to set both cutoffs for center and mains manually to 70 Hz just to make ARC's life easier (having crossover set to the same for mains, center and subwoofer would simplify the calculation of filters I guess)?
> 
> In addition to that I have an urge to raise the MAX EQ frequency to 7Khz from 5Khz to smooth high-frequency peak on my surrounds, it it something that worth trying to do or microphone behaviour above 5KHz can be misleading?



I don't see how setting the crossovers the same is going to make ARC's life easier. Personally I don't care about making it easier. I want it to do the best job possible and work as hard as possible to please me.







.


I am running ARC at higher than 5K eq. It's an easy thing to try. Raise the EQ recalculate and upload. If you don't like it then set it back to 5K recalculate and upload. In fact if you just want to test set Music mode for 5K and Movie mode to 7K, calculate and upload. Then just swap the source back and forth to see if you like the difference.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21446858
> 
> 
> I don't see how setting the crossovers the same is going to make ARC's life easier. Personally I don't care about making it easier. I want it to do the best job possible and work as hard as possible to please me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Mathematically speaking it is easier to calculate adjustments if everything is crossed in one point and result can be better. As my crossover values are close to each other changing them to one value may improve the final response curve. I read in Audyssey forums that they actually recommend using the 80Hz as a crossover for all speakers.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21446858
> 
> 
> I am running ARC at higher than 5K eq. It's an easy thing to try. Raise the EQ recalculate and upload. If you don't like it then set it back to 5K recalculate and upload. In fact if you just want to test set Music mode for 5K and Movie mode to 7K, calculate and upload. Then just swap the source back and forth to see if you like the difference.



This is also strictly mathematical question. Should I trust ARC microphone above 5KHz? Both ARC and REW showing 2Db peak from 5.5KHz to 7.7KHz which is smoothed on ARC's graph if I set maximum frequency in 7KHz. So I am wondering if it is even worth trying to play with those numbers or anything above 5KHz is unreliable (I live in a condo and my room is acoustically untreated).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21446800
> 
> 
> I ran ARC on my AVM 50V and it set my center response cutoff to 70Hz (PMC) and mains cutoff to 60Hz (Harbeth), also subwoofer response cutoff to 120Hz (although subwoofer crossover was set to 70Hz). I am wondering would it be reasonable to set both cutoffs for center and mains manually to 70 Hz just to make ARC's life easier (having crossover set to the same for mains, center and subwoofer would simplify the calculation of filters I guess)?
> 
> In addition to that I have an urge to raise the MAX EQ frequency to 7Khz from 5Khz to smooth high-frequency peak on my surrounds, it it something that worth trying to do or microphone behaviour above 5KHz can be misleading so it is better to leave everything above 5Khz as it is?



Unless you see a problem in the charts don't assume it would be better for your ARC solution to modify the cutoff frequencies.


ARC knows what it is doing with the crossover math. The effective crossover is a combination of the crossover filter itself and the room correction parameters which you can not see. By changing the crossover you may actually make ARC's job tougher.


There ARE reasons for changing the cutoff frequencies while tweaking, but trying to match the crossovers for all speakers is not one of them.


On the issue of raising Max EQ Frequency the easy answer is to try it and see which setting you prefer. The difference between 5KHz and 7KHz is not great. I'm using 15KHz in my solution and I love the result.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21446599
> 
> 
> Is this on the Blu-Ray Version or DVD version?



I believe folks are talking about the DTS-HD MA 3.0 48KHz track on "Midnight in Paris", Blu-ray -- LF/C/RF only. The current "official" firmware for the Oppo BDP-93 decodes that as 5.1 LPCM with silence in LS/RS/LFE. That should be simple for the D2 to handle -- no different than the decode of any 5.1 track.

--Bob


----------



## rovingtravler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21446599
> 
> 
> Is this on the Blu-Ray Version or DVD version?



This was the BD version. MY friend got it from red box. Had issues they gave him a new BD of the same movie. Same issue. He did some looking around and we talked ... tried bitstream (his AVR does not do DTS MA or DD HD)... that is why he used the core track.


He has a Visio BD player feeding an old pioneer audio only. The HDMI goes direct to a MITs HC-4000


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21447386
> 
> 
> I believe folks are talking about the DTS-HD MA 3.0 48KHz track on "Midnight in Paris", Blu-ray -- LF/C/RF only. The current "official" firmware for the Oppo BDP-93 decodes that as 5.1 LPCM with silence in LS/RS/LFE. That should be simple for the D2 to handle -- no different than the decode of any 5.1 track.
> 
> --Bob



I have BOTH the Blu-Ray and the DVD - I will try BOTH and let you know.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21447386
> 
> 
> I believe folks are talking about the DTS-HD MA 3.0 48KHz track on "Midnight in Paris", Blu-ray -- LF/C/RF only. The current "official" firmware for the Oppo BDP-93 decodes that as 5.1 LPCM with silence in LS/RS/LFE. That should be simple for the D2 to handle -- no different than the decode of any 5.1 track.
> 
> --Bob



I tried *Midnight in Paris* - Blu-Ray on two Blu-Ray Players - a Panasonic

DMP-BDT310 and a FAT PS3. Both players played the same outputting

48 Khz PCM NP to the D2. The input display on the D2 showed L C R LFE.


I HOPE THAT HELPS.


It appears nothing is WRONG.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21389597
> 
> 
> Is anything in the video output config menu set to Auto? If yes, try various forced settings.



No but I did have it outputting 10-bit color for some reason. I set it to 8-bit color and it's stable through many movie nights, until I switch to a different output mode. Then right away I got the crazy jagged picture that looked like a photoshop effect gone mad. So I went into the other video output configurations and set them ALL to 8-bit and disabled deep color in the BDP. This improved switching FROM custom output to the other output modes - no problem in that direction. However upon switching from a normal mode back TO custom I get a blank screen (either green or red or black) every time. A power cycle is required to recover











> Quote:
> I'm also curious, now that comparison is possible what pic quality differences do you see between 1080i60 vs 900p60 output by the prepro?
> 
> 
> (On a 768p display I've seen no difference with the most difficult patterns, let alone normal video, between feeding it native from a D2 vs letting it scale down 1080p that's coming from the D2. But then that's all-progressive unlike your setup.)



Yes 







My projector can scan to any frequency within the limits of its bandwidth (full 1080p works but it is beyond what the tubes and optics can resolve, so you get a very soft picture). This is why I was looking for something in between 1080p and 720p. 1920x1080i works well but more horizontal resolution than I need and too little vertical resolution, plus I get wavy lines for some reason. 1600x900p seems to be spot on







The next step is to experiment with higher refresh rates that are multiples of 24fps since it has the bandwidth. I'm hoping the VXP will do proper film cadence detection and eliminate judder.


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21395478
> 
> 
> Does anyone know anyone in NY / long island area that could run ARC for me and/ or troubleshoot my system? I currently have the anthem A5 and avm 40 with b&w 803 d's front speakers and htm2d center and pioneer bp 09 fd blu ray. The audio dealer has been back to my house maybe 10-15 times since I first purchased the system about 1 and 1/2 years ago trying to correct what he has been describing as room deficiencies / poor acoustics...my issue is that the dialogue from the center channel has never sounded right...initially it was way too boomy with dialogue that was difficult to hear quite frequently.i upgraded the wiring to very expensive wires and spent a ton of money on acoustic panels on my ceiling and paneling behind the center speaker. Dealer recently reran the ARC and although the dialogue may be somewhat better/ clearer and less boomy it still doesn't sound right as voices do not sound natural and i actually get better sounding -more natural sound/ dialogue out of my panny plasma speakers in another room... At times the sound almost appears to be slightly distorted when for example someone raises their voice both from cable tv and the blu ray. It sounds like the voices are lacking their natural warmth now..and missing something.... The dealer tells me that to him the sound is fine but it is not fine to me and too many of my friends / family that listen.. When the ARC was running the guys were talking and walking around and sneeezing a few times and although they said that wouldn't affect the ARC - I am not sure....
> 
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions or know anyone in ny / long island who can help me? I wish I could run the ARC on my own but wouldn't really have a clue how to do it.. Thanks so much.




UPdate: I asked the Audio dealer to get me a printout of the ARC and was told he was not sure he has it but will check...if i am able to get a copy i will print it here ... I also asked anthem if they would take a look at the results and Anthem responded with the following (while also telling me that running ARC improperly could not be the cause of the problem) ------->


Arthur,

Not sure the ARC results are going to help me much.

Try this.

Take the center channel output from the AVM and run it into a different speaker on the amp.

If the same issue continues then I would have the AVM-40 sent in.

If not than you may want to look at the amp or then the speakers as the culprit.


Now.. interestingly enough... when i did as he suggested i was unable to get any PICTURE or sound from my cable tv??????? nothing.... i was able to get blu ray pic and sound but no cable? just a black screen... put the center output back where it belonged and cable pic and sound returned...not sure what that is all about...As far as the sound from the blu ray -- it might have been slightly better but still not great coming from the left front speaker... i am at a loss now because Anthem ( who previously told me running arc properly may make a big difference now tells me otherwise -- perhaps after speaking to my dealer?- am i getting paranoid? ) The dealer had asked me if i was going to send the results of the ARC ( if he could find it ) to anthem? i am going to guess that he will not be able to find the arc results...anyway... anyone have any thoughts on my ramblings? thanks Arthur


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21448517
> 
> 
> However upon switching from a normal mode back TO custom I get a blank screen (either green or red or black) every time. A power cycle is required to recover.



That's going to be tough to diagnose without the same projector model at hand. What's the source when switching to custom mode - component, HDMI, or off - and if it's more than one of the above is there any correlation to the green/red/black result?


Is a second display connected and are the normal output modes programmed because of it?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Grifo* /forum/post/21445471
> 
> 
> well, I understand what Bob wrote about
> 
> the pass through mode..
> 
> I just wonder if, to keep unchanged a video signal processed by an external
> 
> video processor (radiance or other ones), it's better a pre only audio (like the Cary Cinema 12) or it can be enough the pass through coming in the D2v



Something has to deinterlace and/or scale the signal when the input does not match the display's native resolution. D2v uses the VXP video processor and the quality is as good as it gets. If the projector also has VXP then perhaps it would likely make little or no difference whether the D2v scales/deinterlaces or the projector does it - note that we added custom code in the original D2 for better dithering therefore there may be small differences.


If you wish you can consider the D2v an external video scaler that also processes audio.


The main advantage with processing in the D2v vs the projector is that it allows per-input settings. These are some possibilities:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=33971


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Note that you are NOT trying to get a mic position at each sitter's head position The idea is to sample the range of the listening area, but within the rules above.



why not? I mean if the former accomplishes the latter then isn't that better? I thought we wanted ARC to "hear " what the listeners hear (and "if a tree falls in the forest..." applies to the rest of the room) but I've only gathered this from reading the brief instructions in the manual.


Also why do the positions need to be separated so far? My seats are close and have no choice to move them around.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lefreck* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> While I understand this feature I think it should be possible to disable the audio output on the HDMI output. I've added volume up and down buttons on my Harmony remote for my Panasonic Plasma...
> 
> 
> I have the D2V now for a couple of weeks and this is one of the things I don't like, but I think (and hope) this could be changed via firmware update.
> 
> 
> Other things that get me annoyed:
> 
> - HDMI audio from my Tvix is not recognized, so I had to connect a coax digital cable to get any sound from this box.
> 
> - HDMI audio from my cable box (Technisat) is very randomly recognized. I guess I have to install another coax/optical cable.
> 
> - No HDMI video passthrough: I've opted for the "Auto"-res output in my video config 1. I use this setting for my Oppo BD-83SE and while this is mainly OK, there is judder on horizontal pans with 24p material (hope the expressions are correct, English is not my native language). I've read on the last pages here, that it is preferable to not use the "auto"-output, but that means you have to define 3 video res/rates: [email protected] for movies, [email protected](concerts) and [email protected](europ. video productions & dvds).
> 
> 
> All of this was much easier with my DVDO Edge( no problems in recognizing HDMI-audio from TVIX and Technisat and working at native refreshrate), so I'm a little bit disappointed here...
> 
> What's really fantastic on the D2V is the movie sound, so not everything is bad



Yes I find these restrictions a bit limiting not to mention the need to manually select the right output depending on the disc you pop in. No way most of our wives would tolerate this!


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> That's going to be tough to diagnose without the same projector model at hand. What's the source when switching to custom mode - component, HDMI, or off - and if it's more than one of the above is there any correlation to the green/red/black result?
> 
> 
> Is a second display connected and are the normal output modes programmed because of it?



I have the same source (Sony BDPs770) setup 3 times with different output resolutions (DVD1: normal 720p, DVD2: normal 1080i, DVD3: custom 900p). All other video settings are identical and nothing is auto for the 3.


The only display connected is an HDFury3 HDMI video DAC (actual PJ should be irrelevant). Nothing on secondary.


I just cycle through the 3 modes by pressing the DVD button (slowly).


Thanks


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^^Which D2v software version are you running?


Before this goes further I'd like to ask for assurance that it would be worthwhile, because as you said 1600x900 output, your projector's native res, provides the best image. _Is there a real need to switch away from it?_ Also please remember that HD Fury defines the opposite of HDCP compliance - there's only so much support we can provide for this issue.


We do not have a 1600x900-capable projector nor an HD Fury so could you temporarily load a different "dummy" custom resolution such as 720p or 1080i and let tech support know what happens when switching? We can only attempt to reproduce the issue with a straight HDMI connection and a "standard custom" resolution.


----------



## AVfile

Has anyone else noticed an issue switching TO/FROM custom resolution?


^^ I am running 2.12x


I was hoping to use 720p for DVD, 1080i for cable TV, and 900p for Blu-ray and HD-DVD. I will do as you say and report back. I can also connect some other HDMI TVs that I have in the house to remove the HDFury from the equation.


Thanks for the help.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21450013
> 
> 
> I was hoping to use 720p for DVD, 1080i for cable TV, and 900p for Blu-ray and HD-DVD.



WHY in the world would you want to run 3 different resolutions.


You should run whatever is the *NATIVE* resolution of your *DISPLAY*


----------



## Lefreck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21449494
> 
> 
> Yes I find these restrictions a bit limiting not to mention the need to manually select the right output depending on the disc you pop in. No way most of our wives would tolerate this!



That's exactly the point: I'm quite lucky my wife doesn't question my "buys" in electronic, but the usability has to be there for her, otherwise she gets VERY annoyed. So for the cablebox, I added another optical cable and for TV sound, I found a nice workaround on the Panasonic Plasma: I can "opt" for the sound on the HDMI-inputs to be digital or analog, so I changed from digital to analog an no more sound on the HDMI input. I can't disable audio completely, as advised formerly, as I also use the internal tuner sometimes... Can't wait to get the passthrough option of the video signal though.

I still got a couple of questions:

How can I get the macro commands for the inputs (e.g. THX,8,5) in a Logitech Harmony remote, on which I have defined activities, but very often get the wrong input?

Aren't there such "macros" for changing the video refreshrate on the fly?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21450044
> 
> 
> WHY in the world would you want to run 3 different resolutions.
> 
> 
> You should run whatever is the *NATIVE* resolution of your *DISPLAY*



There is NO native resolution, only a theoretical maximum, because it is analog. It is like a multi-sync CRT monitor.


CRT users drop down to 720p for SD since there is no need to overdrive it and heat up the room more on lower-res material.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21450065
> 
> 
> There is NO native resolution, only a theoretical maximum, because it is analog. It is like a multi-sync CRT monitor.



I have used Multi-Sync CRTs since the 90's - There is always

a best resolution where it was tuned for. That is why we use

a Video Processor - External or Internal.


Changing Resolutions is a BAD practice.


I still don't understand your needs - but it is OBVIOUSLY OLD Technology.


Digital is TODAY.


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21448926
> 
> 
> UPdate: I asked the Audio dealer to get me a printout of the ARC and was told he was not sure he has it but will check...if i am able to get a copy i will print it here ... I also asked anthem if they would take a look at the results and Anthem responded with the following (while also telling me that running ARC improperly could not be the cause of the problem) ------->
> 
> 
> Arthur,
> 
> Not sure the ARC results are going to help me much.
> 
> Try this.
> 
> Take the center channel output from the AVM and run it into a different speaker on the amp.
> 
> If the same issue continues then I would have the AVM-40 sent in.
> 
> If not than you may want to look at the amp or then the speakers as the culprit.
> 
> 
> Now.. interestingly enough... when i did as he suggested i was unable to get any PICTURE or sound from my cable tv??????? nothing.... i was able to get blu ray pic and sound but no cable? just a black screen... put the center output back where it belonged and cable pic and sound returned...not sure what that is all about...As far as the sound from the blu ray -- it might have been slightly better but still not great coming from the left front speaker... i am at a loss now because Anthem ( who previously told me running arc properly may make a big difference now tells me otherwise -- perhaps after speaking to my dealer?- am i getting paranoid? ) The dealer had asked me if i was going to send the results of the ARC ( if he could find it ) to anthem? i am going to guess that he will not be able to find the arc results...anyway... anyone have any thoughts on my ramblings? thanks Arthur




Okay- the dealer sent me the arc results- he said i need the software to open it? is it self explanatory? thanks-- also anthem said they never heard of losing the pic and sound by pulling out the center channel output... dealer said the same...so who knows what is going on? thanks


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21450271
> 
> 
> I have used Multi-Sync CRTs since the 90's - There is always
> 
> a best resolution where it was tuned for. That is why we use
> 
> a Video Processor - External or Internal.
> 
> 
> Changing Resolutions is a BAD practice.
> 
> 
> I still don't understand your needs - but it is OBVIOUSLY OLD Technology.
> 
> 
> Digital is TODAY.



I've had Multi-Sync CRTs since the 80's.









I've also had a CRT in my HT up until a month ago.

I know exactly where AVfile is coming from.

CRTs definitely have a sweetspot both with the electronics and the resolving power of the actual tubes. The problem is it is a tradeoff because of all the different scan rates of video. Ideally you would like to do 960P on a CRT projector. But a lot of times that may result in a soft image so you make tradeoffs. I disagree that changing resolutions is bad practice. You want to maximize your source to your projector and that is not always possible with one resolution on a CRT.


It is OBVIOUSLY *VERY* OLD Technology but there is still something about the fluid motion of an analog display. And don't even try to match the black level of a digital projector to a CRT.


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/21447660
> 
> 
> This was the BD version. MY friend got it from red box. Had issues they gave him a new BD of the same movie. Same issue. He did some looking around and we talked ... tried bitstream (his AVR does not do DTS MA or DD HD)... that is why he used the core track.
> 
> 
> He has a Visio BD player feeding an old pioneer audio only. The HDMI goes direct to a MITs HC-4000



Update on this....as I was the one originally asking about this issue. Since my D2 does not do DTS MA either, my setting in the Oppo was PCM output, that has always worked with any Blu-Ray I've thrown at it. However, I had to change this setting in the Oppo to Bitstream to get any audio. This was a redbox copy of the movie as well. It has always been my undersanding that PCM was the correct setting from the Oppo to the D2 since it can't do the newer formats, and Bitstream would mean the decoding would take place in the Anthem vs the Oppo...so I'm a bit confused as to why this fixed the problem.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/21451079
> 
> 
> Update on this....as I was the one originally asking about this issue. Since my D2 does not do DTS MA either, my setting in the Oppo was PCM output, that has always worked with any Blu-Ray I've thrown at it. However, I had to change this setting in the Oppo to Bitstream to get any audio. This was a redbox copy of the movie as well. It has always been my undersanding that PCM was the correct setting from the Oppo to the D2 since it can't do the newer formats, and Bitstream would mean the decoding would take place in the Anthem vs the Oppo...so I'm a bit confused as to why this fixed the problem.



I Assume you saw *MY POST* - I had a Redbox Blu-Ray also.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram* /forum/post/21451079
> 
> 
> Update on this....as I was the one originally asking about this issue. Since my D2 does not do DTS MA either, my setting in the Oppo was PCM output, that has always worked with any Blu-Ray I've thrown at it. However, I had to change this setting in the Oppo to Bitstream to get any audio. This was a redbox copy of the movie as well. It has always been my undersanding that PCM was the correct setting from the Oppo to the D2 since it can't do the newer formats, and Bitstream would mean the decoding would take place in the Anthem vs the Oppo...so I'm a bit confused as to why this fixed the problem.



with bitstream you're now getting the core DTS not DTSMA I believe. So that's what you're hearing.

John


----------



## obie_fl

What John says.... you are not getting the lossless tracks but the lossy core. I may have missed it but does your Oppo have the latest firmware? It almost has to be the player if you tried the disk in other players and it worked.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/21451197
> 
> 
> What John says.... you are not getting the lossless tracks but the lossy core. I may have missed it but does your Oppo have the latest firmware? It almost has to be the player if you tried the disk in other players and it worked.



I'm pretty sure that if the D2 has a bitstreamed DTSMA track, the DTS core, 1500 kb/s, will be what it puts out since it can't decode the lossless track, hence you do hear something, just not the lossless track.

John


----------



## obie_fl

That is correct John but normally with the D2 you are decoding in the player that is where he had issues.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/21451437
> 
> 
> That is correct John but normally with the D2 you are decoding in the player that is where he had issues.



Obie,

I was aware of that but I was answering his question as to why he got sound bitstreaming instead of with pcm. He seemed puzzled by that. I agree, it seems like the player not the D2.

John


----------



## obie_fl

John - I was agreeing with you on the first post and the second post and now with this third post.







I'm interested in how it is resolved because I thought this issue was fixed in the Oppo. Guess I need to rent the disk and find out huh.


----------



## AVfile

Arthur,



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21450614
> 
> 
> Okay- the dealer sent me the arc results- he said i need the software to open it? is it self explanatory? thanks



Yes you need to install ARC Software on your PC and open the report file they sent you with it. I don't think the PC needs to be connected to the Anthem just to view a report. I don't know what this is going to tell you though... Your next question will be how to interpret all the graphs







and it's obvious the dealer did not run ARC correctly, based on what you said.


Why don't you just turn OFF ARC (Room EQ - see the manual) and perform some basic manual setup? You mentioned you don't have a laptop to run ARC but you can calibrate using the Anthem's internal test tones and an SPL meter. This is how I've been calibrating since 1999










Please make sure you have the basic hookups covered first. You do not need lossless 6CH analog connections to perform the initial evaluation - that would be just icing on the cake.



> Quote:
> -- also anthem said they never heard of losing the pic and sound by pulling out the center channel output... dealer said the same...so who knows what is going on? thanks



It must have been a coincidence. Perhaps you knocked a connector loose when you unplugged the speaker. If it is not repeatable I wouldn't worry.


Hope this helps...


Stefan


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/21451531
> 
> 
> John - I was agreeing with you on the first post and the second post and now with this third post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm interested in how it is resolved because I thought this issue was fixed in the Oppo. Guess I need to rent the disk and find out huh.



I was looking at your HT pics and wondered if it was a basement? Thought they didn't do basements in Florida. Nice room and rack.

John


----------



## obie_fl

John - I get that question a lot yes it is a basement. You got PM.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21396721
> 
> 
> Okay- here are some of the settings-
> 
> 
> Front crossovers=60; center crossover =60; sub/lfe=60; surr=115
> 
> 
> Speaker calib:FL=0; Center 3.0 ;FR=.5 ; Surr R=0;Sur L=-2.0 ;movie sub=
> 
> -1.5; music sub= 1.5
> 
> 
> Listener position had 12.0 feet for everything ( odd since that is not correct) except rears had 4.0 for both...
> 
> incidentally i have high ceilings in the room... thanks for all your help.



As Bob said, most of your settings seem reasonable so you might not have to run out and buy an SPL meter if you don't have access to one.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21396873
> 
> 
> OK that's a good start. There are no problems showing in your crossover frequencies or speaker volume trim values.
> 
> 
> Go ahead and put in the proper speaker distances now. You can do that without having to re-run ARC. Incorrect speaker distances will screw up the positioning of sounds that are supposed to be located between pairs of speakers, but generally doesn't screw up dialog.



What he said










After you do this and turn off ARC you can sit in your listening position and run the manual test tones (see user manual). Listen to them buzz around the room and see if all the speakers are working and sound approximately the same (I know this is subjective). Listen to some music or movies and please report back on the sound quality.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21450614
> 
> 
> Okay- the dealer sent me the arc results- he said i need the software to open it? is it self explanatory? thanks-- also anthem said they never heard of losing the pic and sound by pulling out the center channel output... dealer said the same...so who knows what is going on? thanks



On your loss of picture/sound, I think the odds are excellent that you disturbed some other cables when you fiddled with that Center speaker output.


On ARC, yes you will need to install the ARC application to view the file.


You will need a Windows PC computer running XP or later. If you are getting something new, you might as well get Windows 7. Avoid Windows Vista. Many people use inexpensive laptop computers. You don't need anything fancy in the way of graphics, audio, or processing on the PC. The Anthem itself generates the test tones used by the ARC setup, and the ARC application uses a standard Windows feature to input the mic data. The rest is just computation.


The PC will need a USB port for attaching the ARC mic cable. The PC will also need a serial (RS-232) connection to go to the Anthem. Many people do that by using a SECOND USB port on the PC along with the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/serial adapter. Plug the adapter into the computer and run the serial cable from the adapter to the back of the Anthem. If you don't have the Keyspan adapter already in your ARC kit (I don't think Anthem was distributing them back when you got your AVM 40), you can buy it at Amazon or even direct from Anthem. Accept no substitutes. Use just that specific Keyspan adapter. Your ARC kit will include the microphone cable. It should also include the necessary serial cable.


Now, your AVM 40 is old. And that means the ARC software on your install CD is old. To avoid problems, I'm going to suggest you *NOT* install the software from the ARC install CD.


And that means you need to do a few additional steps.


First, download the ARC V3.0.2 install kit from Anthem:

http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-...pport/software 


That link is from Anthem's page for the D2v, but no matter. The ARC install kit is the same for all Anthem processors. (You just need the ARC kit. Don't download the D2v firmware!)


UnZip that downloaded file on your Windows PC and you will end up with a folder. Browse into that folder and find the program Setup.Exe. That's the installer.


Now insert your original ARC install CD. If the Installer on the CD starts up automatically just quit out of it. Now browse into that CD and find the Setup.Exe program on the CD. In that same folder on the CD you will find two files with names made up of numbers. The numbers are the Serial Number of your AVM 40 and the Serial Number of your ARC mic. The two files are your ARC license and the individualized calibration data for your ARC mic.


Copy both of those files from the CD into the place where you found Setup.Exe in the downloaded ARC V3.0.2 stuff.


You can now eject the CD. You are done with it.


Run Setup.Exe in the downloaded version. It will install ARC V3.0.2 and also copy your ARC license and mic calibration files into the correct location. It will add a "shortcut" icon on your Windows desktop which you can use to launch the ARC application itself.


In the future, you can just download and install new ARC versions without having to do the extra steps with those two files. They will simply carry over from the prior install of ARC.


Once you have ARC installed, reboot your Windows PC.


Now, find that file you got from the dealer. Right Click on it and select Properties from the Pop Up menu. Then select Read Only. Then click Apply. Then click OK. You've just write protected that file to make sure you don't accidentally alter it while getting familiar with ARC.


Now you can double-click on that file and it will open in ARC and you can view your ARC charts and Targets window.

--Bob


----------



## xMEATx

I read somewhere that my display converts 24hz to 72hz or something like that. If that is the case, should I set the anthem to output 72hz for my bluray source? Thanks


----------



## AVfile

^^ No, use the stock 24 Hz output mode and let the display do its thing.


To output 72Hz you would have to create a custom output mode with CustomResolutionManager and that is only for dinosaurs with antiquated equipment like me. Then there's no guarantee that the Anthem's VXP will correctly perform 3:3 frame repetition since nobody here has reported trying it with the new software.


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^ No, use the stock 24 Hz output mode and let the display do its thing.
> 
> 
> Do you have a 50v/D2v or regular D2?



Thanks for responding, I have the D2v. I currently use the stock 24hz output, but with all the discussions of custom resolutions, I began thinking.....may not be the best way to do things.


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21451542
> 
> 
> Arthur,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you need to install ARC Software on your PC and open the report file they sent you with it. I don't think the PC needs to be connected to the Anthem just to view a report. I don't know what this is going to tell you though... Your next question will be how to interpret all the graphs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it's obvious the dealer did not run ARC correctly, based on what you said.
> 
> 
> Why don't you just turn OFF ARC (Room EQ - see the manual) and perform some basic manual setup? You mentioned you don't have a laptop to run ARC but you can calibrate using the Anthem's internal test tones and an SPL meter. This is how I've been calibrating since 1999
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please make sure you have the basic hookups covered first. You do not need lossless 6CH analog connections to perform the initial evaluation - that would be just icing on the cake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It must have been a coincidence. Perhaps you knocked a connector loose when you unplugged the speaker. If it is not repeatable I wouldn't worry.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps...
> 
> 
> Stefan



thanks for the info- i too thought it was a coincidence and/or a wire became loose- but i tested it 3 times... each time i lost pic and sound and when the wire was put back in everything returned... 3 times...i can do it again but i know what will happen already


----------



## arthurrubenstein




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21451934
> 
> 
> On your loss of picture/sound, I think the odds are excellent that you disturbed some other cables when you fiddled with that Center speaker output.
> 
> 
> On ARC, yes you will need to install the ARC application to view the file.
> 
> 
> You will need a Windows PC computer running XP or later. If you are getting something new, you might as well get Windows 7. Avoid Windows Vista. Many people use inexpensive laptop computers. You don't need anything fancy in the way of graphics, audio, or processing on the PC. The Anthem itself generates the test tones used by the ARC setup, and the ARC application uses a standard Windows feature to input the mic data. The rest is just computation.
> 
> 
> The PC will need a USB port for attaching the ARC mic cable. The PC will also need a serial (RS-232) connection to go to the Anthem. Many people do that by using a SECOND USB port on the PC along with the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/serial adapter. Plug the adapter into the computer and run the serial cable from the adapter to the back of the Anthem. If you don't have the Keyspan adapter already in your ARC kit (I don't think Anthem was distributing them back when you got your AVM 40), you can buy it at Amazon or even direct from Anthem. Accept no substitutes. Use just that specific Keyspan adapter. Your ARC kit will include the microphone cable. It should also include the necessary serial cable.
> 
> 
> Now, your AVM 40 is old. And that means the ARC software on your install CD is old. To avoid problems, I'm going to suggest you *NOT* install the software from the ARC install CD.
> 
> 
> And that means you need to do a few additional steps.
> 
> 
> First, download the ARC V3.0.2 install kit from Anthem:
> 
> http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-...pport/software
> 
> 
> That link is from Anthem's page for the D2v, but no matter. The ARC install kit is the same for all Anthem processors. (You just need the ARC kit. Don't download the D2v firmware!)
> 
> 
> UnZip that downloaded file on your Windows PC and you will end up with a folder. Browse into that folder and find the program Setup.Exe. That's the installer.
> 
> 
> Now insert your original ARC install CD. If the Installer on the CD starts up automatically just quit out of it. Now browse into that CD and find the Setup.Exe program on the CD. In that same folder on the CD you will find two files with names made up of numbers. The numbers are the Serial Number of your AVM 40 and the Serial Number of your ARC mic. The two files are your ARC license and the individualized calibration data for your ARC mic.
> 
> 
> Copy both of those files from the CD into the place where you found Setup.Exe in the downloaded ARC V3.0.2 stuff.
> 
> 
> You can now eject the CD. You are done with it.
> 
> 
> Run Setup.Exe in the downloaded version. It will install ARC V3.0.2 and also copy your ARC license and mic calibration files into the correct location. It will add a "shortcut" icon on your Windows desktop which you can use to launch the ARC application itself.
> 
> 
> In the future, you can just download and install new ARC versions without having to do the extra steps with those two files. They will simply carry over from the prior install of ARC.
> 
> 
> Once you have ARC installed, reboot your Windows PC.
> 
> 
> Now, find that file you got from the dealer. Right Click on it and select Properties from the Pop Up menu. Then select Read Only. Then click Apply. Then click OK. You've just write protected that file to make sure you don't accidentally alter it while getting familiar with ARC.
> 
> 
> Now you can double-click on that file and it will open in ARC and you can view your ARC charts and Targets window.
> 
> --Bob



thanks so much... this like reading a treatise on the subject.... thank you again


p.s. i did not disturb any other cables and every time i replaced the center connection the pic and sound returned... 3 times... i am at a loss...crazy ..


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21396721
> 
> 
> Okay- here are some of the settings-
> 
> 
> Front crossovers=60; center crossover =60; sub/lfe=60; surr=115
> 
> 
> Speaker calib:FL=0; Center 3.0 ;FR=.5 ; Surr R=0;Sur L=-2.0 ;movie sub=
> 
> -1.5; music sub= 1.5
> 
> *Listener position had 12.0 feet for everything ( odd since that is not correct) except rears had 4.0 for both...*incidentally i have high ceilings in the room... thanks for all your help.




Speaker distances need to be put in by you (or should have been put in by your installer).

ARC does *not* calculate speaker distances (or speaker type-direct vs dipole- for your rears/surrounds).

Get a tape measure at your local hardware store and measure from the front of your speaker to primary listening position for each speaker, then enter the distances in the 'speaker distance' section of the setup menu.


You may want to print out the ARC instructions for your installer/dealer.

It is becoming apprent he doesn't have a clue how to run ARC properly.


On second thought, *learn to run ARC yourself*.

You will find that its no big deal.

And you will want to re-run ARC if you ever change speakers, or even move their positions, or change your seating position.


Tom


----------



## boblam

I am looking at a 4K resolution on a new TV. Looks like the pass-through upgrade that is coming soon would be the answer for this. Having said that, I have a noob video switching question for the 50V.


Can all of my video inputs / outputs just be pass-through and allow the end TV and the settings of my input device to work together without any processing from the 50V? If that is true, will I still see the volume (and other messages from the 50V) on the TV in pass-through mode? Basically can the 50V work like a switching device for multiple HDMI inputs that are then routed to the TV output?


----------



## AVfile

Yes but no OSD.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21453325
> 
> 
> thanks for the info- i too thought it was a coincidence and/or a wire became loose- but i tested it 3 times... each time i lost pic and sound and when the wire was put back in everything returned... 3 times...i can do it again but i know what will happen already



Most bizarre... Exactly what cable AND on what component(s) were you pulling it from?


------


So are you going to turn off ARC, do the speaker test, and tell us how it sounds?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> thanks so much... this like reading a treatise on the subject ..



If you just want to view the report your dealer sent you don't need to connect your PC to the Anthem or the Mic. I assume they sent you a .ARC file?


Just download and install the ARC software and run it. When the opening dialog says Welcome, "Automatic (recommended)" you select "Manual or Open Existing File" instead. The latter is exactly what you want to do with the .arc file they sent you.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21449592
> 
> 
> We do not have a 1600x900-capable projector nor an HD Fury so could you temporarily load a different "dummy" custom resolution such as 720p or 1080i and let tech support know what happens when switching? We can only attempt to reproduce the issue with a straight HDMI connection and a "standard custom" resolution.



I'm going to let tech support know but thought I would post here also.


I've narrowed down the switching problem using standard resolutions as you suggest. The problem is when switching from an interlaced mode to Custom.


I think you said before that Custom doesn't support interlaced modes, but looks like Custom has an issue coming FROM an interlaced mode as well.


Note: the symptoms have changed slightly. With 1080i -> 900p switching I was getting the psychedelic colors, now with 1080i -> 720p (custom) I get a split screen with the image repeated twice on either side of a horizontal green bar. 720p -> 720p (custom) seems to work fine.


----------



## SimonNo10

Well the issue with my D2v front display continues. Basically characters on the main display aren't illuminated so I get broken type. I have turned on max brightness and left it on for 30mins last night to see if that makes a difference but nothing changed.


I've contacted the place of purchase who have referred the issue to Anthem ( I've also contacted Anthem). I've sent pics of the issue as well to place of purchase. Just another issue I've had with the unit and just got my projector back from service center (dust blob) been 2 weeks and came back the same long story. Not getting a break from issues at the moment. Looks like the Anthem will have to go for a repair and I've just started my holidays 2 weeks. Great.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well the issue with my D2v front display continues. Basically characters on the main display aren't illuminated so I get broken type.
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> Looks like the Anthem will have to go for a repair and I've just started my holidays 2 weeks. Great.



I had this problem with a few dim characters just after I performed a firmware upgrade. I was panicking because I thought my laptop went into standby during the video portion of it, which can't be interrupted! So I immediately redid the upgrade and all was well. I'm still not sure what happened.


I feel for you with all this. My advice is to hold onto your Anthem and enjoy it for your holidays. Ship it off if you must when you go back to work.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boblam* /forum/post/21455404
> 
> 
> I am looking at a 4K resolution on a new TV. Looks like the pass-through upgrade that is coming soon would be the answer for this. Having said that, I have a noob video switching question for the 50V.
> 
> 
> Can all of my video inputs / outputs just be pass-through and allow the end TV and the settings of my input device to work together without any processing from the 50V? If that is true, will I still see the volume (and other messages from the 50V) on the TV in pass-through mode? Basically can the 50V work like a switching device for multiple HDMI inputs that are then routed to the TV output?



4K is not supported but then unless you can get your hands on a 4K source any time soon the 4K TV would be upscaling a 1080p and lower source, i.e. no issue in this case.


By definition, pass-through mode does nothing to the signal and that includes adding OSD. If you'd like OSD use processed mode. All the fears I see here about running the source through video processing seem to come from people who haven't tried it. In a digital world "copies" are bit-perfect clones of the source so have no fear with something like a 1080p HDMI input running through a processor with 1080p output - "generational loss" is par for the course only in an analog world. If in doubt, use test patterns and observe.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21455766
> 
> 
> I've narrowed down the switching problem using standard resolutions as you suggest. The problem is when switching from an interlaced mode to Custom.



Thanks, we'll try it in-house likely with 1080p for Custom, or VGA variants for JVC-based projectors.


----------



## MStanic

I have a question regarding the audio that I should be receiving via my Sonos ZP90 and Apple TV. For example, I have both connected digitally with the ZP90 using Coaxial in the CD input and set to "Dig Coax CD" for the "Audio In" setting while the Apple TV is connected via HDMI using the DVD input and set to "Dig HDMI" for the "Audio In:" setting of the "Source Setup" section of the D2V.


When I stream music, from Sonos (subscribe to RDIO for example) or my iTunes library I am only getting 2ch coming out so I can only engage 2ch PLIIx for example. I cannot change the mode to anything but 2ch modes. Is it correct for it to read as 2ch? If it is, then I guess I use the various sound modes to enchance 2ch (ie. Neo6, PLIIx, etc).


What about when you airplay. For example, I have an Airport Express connected purely for Airplaying. I can send it to ALL ZONES in my house but it is connected to the mini RCA of the Airport Express and then to the mini RCA of a C4 HC300 receiver which is connected to the D2V. Thanks.


----------



## ninja12

Now, that football is over for today, the wife decided that she wanted to listen to some music for a little while. So, I turned on some tones for her, and she sits in my spot. After the first couple of songs, she says to me "Honey, why is sound only coming from the speaker in the middle and not from the two tall speakers"? I look at her with a smile on my face and said, the middle speaker is not on. She says "Yes it is. That's the only one that I hear sound coming from". I said no, really, it's not on, and I told her to walk up to it and put her ear to it, and she did. Her jaw almost hits the floor in disbelief, and she say "Oh My God, it's not on. How did you do that". I told her it's that little black box that's on the rack that has "Anthem" on it and it's using something that's called "ARC" to make that happen. Her response really, that little thing is making that happen? I said yes, and she said, well in that case, make sure you keep it. Now, I can't get her out of my spot.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I had this problem with a few dim characters just after I performed a firmware upgrade. I was panicking because I thought my laptop went into standby during the video portion of it, which can't be interrupted! So I immediately redid the upgrade and all was well. I'm still not sure what happened.



I just installed firmware 2.11 (had 2.10) and the display issue is still there. I'm a little nervous installing 2.11x so will hold off. Knowing my luck it will brick the unit.


Thanks for the reply.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21461420
> 
> 
> I have a question regarding the audio that I should be receiving via my Sonos ZP90 and Apple TV. For example, I have both connected digitally with the ZP90 using Coaxial in the CD input and set to "Dig Coax CD" for the "Audio In" setting while the Apple TV is connected via HDMI using the DVD input and set to "Dig HDMI" for the "Audio In:" setting of the "Source Setup" section of the D2V.
> 
> 
> When I stream music, from Sonos (subscribe to RDIO for example) or my iTunes library I am only getting 2ch coming out so I can only engage 2ch PLIIx for example. I cannot change the mode to anything but 2ch modes. Is it correct for it to read as 2ch? If it is, then I guess I use the various sound modes to enchance 2ch (ie. Neo6, PLIIx, etc).
> 
> 
> What about when you airplay. For example, I have an Airport Express connected purely for Airplaying. I can send it to ALL ZONES in my house but it is connected to the mini RCA of the Airport Express and then to the mini RCA of a C4 HC300 receiver which is connected to the D2V. Thanks.



Most music is stereo (2 Channel) unless you are talking about SACD or DVD-A and those generally aren't streamed. So yes you have to apply PLIIx or NEO-6 to get additional channels. Give Anthem-Music a shot too it does a good job with 2 channel music.


As far as video/audio it really depends on the provider.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, we'll try it in-house likely with 1080p for Custom, or VGA variants for JVC-based projectors.



The other side-effect I noticed is the VXP menu does not report what is being output in the INFO section. It says "unknown". Also it does not respond to Frame Lock selection.


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now, that football is over for today, the wife decided that she wanted to listen to some music for a little while. So, I turned on some tones for her, and she sits in my spot. After the first couple of songs, she says to me "Honey, why is sound only coming from the speaker in the middle and not from the two tall speakers"? I look at her with a smile on my face and said, the middle speaker is not on. She says "Yes it is. That's the only one that I hear sound coming from". I said no, really, it's not on, and I told her to walk up to it and put her ear to it, and she did. Her jaw almost hits the floor in disbelief, and she say "Oh My God, it's not on. How did you do that". I told her it's that little black box that's on the rack that has "Anthem" on it and it's using something that's called "ARC" to make that happen. Her response really, that little thing is making that happen? I said yes, and she said, well in that case, make sure you keep it. Now, I can't get her out of my spot.



Isn't correct imaging a wonderful thing? I have trouble listening to systems that can't get that right.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21463889
> 
> 
> Isn't correct imaging a wonderful thing? I have trouble listening to systems that can't get that right.
> 
> John



Yes it is. And, it's even better when the wife likes it which makes upgrading a lot easier.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it is. And, it's even better when the wife likes it which makes upgrading a lot easier.



I've had a similar experience when I got ARC for my AVM50. Wife approval is like a great review from Secrets of Home Theater









John


----------



## seang86s




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21455556
> 
> 
> Yes but no OSD.



Side question. The second HDMI output on the D2v does not have the OSD as well? I just hooked up a projector to the second output (with my plasma hooked up to the first HDMI output) and noticed no OSD on the projector. I'm thinking of using an HDMI splitter to keep the OSD on both display devices.


----------



## Texas steve

there is only OSD on the first HDMI that is normal it is not on the second











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seang86s* /forum/post/21465730
> 
> 
> Side question. The second HDMI output on the D2v does not have the OSD as well? I just hooked up a projector to the second output (with my plasma hooked up to the first HDMI output) and noticed no OSD on the projector. I'm thinking of using an HDMI splitter to keep the OSD on both display devices.


----------



## Texas steve

You have just been blessed my son!!! wow go buy someother good AV stuff while the "mood" is right!! run Forrest run!!


















> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21462177
> 
> 
> Now, that football is over for today, the wife decided that she wanted to listen to some music for a little while. So, I turned on some tones for her, and she sits in my spot. After the first couple of songs, she says to me "Honey, why is sound only coming from the speaker in the middle and not from the two tall speakers"? I look at her with a smile on my face and said, the middle speaker is not on. She says "Yes it is. That's the only one that I hear sound coming from". I said no, really, it's not on, and I told her to walk up to it and put her ear to it, and she did. Her jaw almost hits the floor in disbelief, and she say "Oh My God, it's not on. How did you do that". I told her it's that little black box that's on the rack that has "Anthem" on it and it's using something that's called "ARC" to make that happen. Her response really, that little thing is making that happen? I said yes, and she said, well in that case, make sure you keep it. Now, I can't get her out of my spot.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21462177
> 
> 
> Now, that football is over for today, the wife decided that she wanted to listen to some music for a little while. So, I turned on some tones for her, and she sits in my spot. After the first couple of songs, she says to me "Honey, why is sound only coming from the speaker in the middle and not from the two tall speakers"? I look at her with a smile on my face and said, the middle speaker is not on. She says "Yes it is. That's the only one that I hear sound coming from". I said no, really, it's not on, and I told her to walk up to it and put her ear to it, and she did. Her jaw almost hits the floor in disbelief, and she say "Oh My God, it's not on. How did you do that". I told her it's that little black box that's on the rack that has "Anthem" on it and it's using something that's called "ARC" to make that happen. Her response really, that little thing is making that happen? I said yes, and she said, well in that case, make sure you keep it. Now, I can't get her out of my spot.



The next time your wife is out of the house re-run ARC, using your new seat as the #1 mic position.

Don't tell your wife. Let her keep thinking that she's in the 'sweet spot' seat.









Its a win-win.










Tom


----------



## MStanic

I am having an issue running ARC on my D2V whereby the test tone/application goes into a continous loop on any random speaker in any of the five random positions and it will not stop emitting the test tone. It simply does not go onto the next speaker and just remains locked on the specified speaker with the test tone continously emitting. No error occurs and the only way to stop the test tone from emitting is to power off the D2V. I then end the ARC program on the laptop. This happens on two laptops so I don't believe it's the laptop or software. At this point, I am lucky if I can get through a complete sweep of ARC without this issue occurring regularly.


Attached, is the latest results from running ARC on my D2V. This one, was on position 2 or 3 when suddenly no sound emitted after moving onto the next speaker in sequence. When it finished the L,C,R test tones, it continued to the right surround but no sound/beep for about 10 seconds. After that ARC returned a problem message and allowed me to say to continue. It all completed okay after that. Attached are the charts from this result. Let me what you think of the results.


The usual problem is with the sound just locking on one speaker and not moving onto the next one. I am running the latest D2V firmware, ARC latest software and using the Keyspan USB Serial Adapter from Anthem. I have reported the issue to Anthem but they are not sure what's up yet.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21466253
> 
> 
> You have just been blessed my son!!! wow go buy someother good AV stuff while the "mood" is right!! run Forrest run!!



Yes, I have been blessed above and beyond!!!!














As for the good AV stuff, I am good with what I have for a long long long time; but, when it's time for me to upgrade, I think I have built myself a good case.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21466929
> 
> 
> The next time your wife is out of the house re-run ARC, using your new seat as the #1 mic position.
> 
> Don't tell your wife. Let her keep thinking that she's in the 'sweet spot' seat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a win-win.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



She is being nice to me tonight since the BCS National Championship is on. I'm back in the sweet seat; but, your idea is a good one. I will have to remember that.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21467152
> 
> 
> I am having an issue running ARC on my D2V whereby the test tone/application goes into a continous loop on any random speaker in any of the five random positions and it will not stop emitting the test tone. It simply does not go onto the next speaker and just remains locked on the specified speaker with the test tone continously emitting. No error occurs and the only way to stop the test tone from emitting is to power off the D2V. I then end the ARC program on the laptop. This happens on two laptops so I don't believe it's the laptop or software. At this point, I am lucky if I can get through a complete sweep of ARC without this issue occurring regularly.
> 
> 
> Attached, is the latest results from running ARC on my D2V. This one, was on position 2 or 3 when suddenly no sound emitted after moving onto the next speaker in sequence. When it finished the L,C,R test tones, it continued to the right surround but no sound/beep for about 10 seconds. After that ARC returned a problem message and allowed me to say to continue. It all completed okay after that. Attached are the charts from this result. Let me what you think of the results.
> 
> 
> The usual problem is with the sound just locking on one speaker and not moving onto the next one. I am running the latest D2V firmware, ARC latest software and using the Keyspan USB Serial Adapter from Anthem. I have reported the issue to Anthem but they are not sure what's up yet.



Your charts look good. The only small problem I see is with your Right Front (RF). It's having problems between 100 Hz and 400 Hz. Is it close to a wall or a corner? If so, you can try moving it away from the corner and/or wall to see if that fixes your problem. If you do decide to do move your RF, you can use Quick Measure (QM) to see if it fixes the problem. If it does, then you will have to re-run ARC. However, what you have right now should sound pretty good. So, I suggest you listen to what you have for a while and then decide if you would like to tweak.


Also, please post your Targets' View.


What kind of sub do you have? It looks really really really good. It looks so good that it gets my vote for the Sub Hall of Fame. It looks like it qualifies for the Flat Setting as long as it has LF protection. If you have it set to Auto, you can change it to Flat by bringing up your Targets' View, click on the Advance push button, change Auto to Flat, click Ok, click Calculate, save your ARC file, upload it to your D2V, and save User and/or Installer Settings.


As for the continuous test sweeps, that did happen to me once. I stopped the measurements and rebooted my PC and the problem did not occur anymore. It seems your problem is different from mine because you said that you used a different PC, and the problem still occurred. Hopefully, Anthem or someone on this forum will be able to figure it out for you.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Your charts look good. The only small problem I see is with your Right Front (RF). It's having problems between 100 Hz and 400 Hz. Is it close to a wall or a corner? If so, you can try moving it away from the corner and/or wall to see if that fixes your problem. If you do decide to do move your RF, you can use Quick Measure (QM) to see if it fixes the problem. If it does, then you will have to re-run ARC. However, what you have right now should sound pretty good. So, I suggest you listen to what you have for a while and then decide if you would like to tweak.
> 
> 
> Also, please post your Targets' View.
> 
> 
> What kind of sub do you have? It looks really really really good. It looks so good that it gets my vote for the Sub Hall of Fame. It looks like it qualifies for the Flat Setting as long as it has LF protection. If you have it set to Auto, you can change it to Flat by bringing up your Targets' View, click on the Advance push button, change Auto to Flat, click Ok, click Calculate, save your ARC file, upload it to your D2V, and save User and/or Installer Settings.
> 
> 
> As for the continuous test sweeps, that did happen to me once. I stopped the measurements and rebooted my PC and the problem did not occur anymore. It seems your problem is different from mine because you said that you used a different PC, and the problem still occurred. Hopefully, Anthem or someone on this forum will be able to figure it out for you.



+1 on the sub.

John


----------



## Wookii

Hi all,


I'm having a little issue with my system that I am hoping someone can help shed some light on.


The source is an Oppo BDP-95, and I am trying to use the dual HDMI outputs on it to send the video to my Lumagen Radiance XS, and the audio to my D2v, however when I play a blu-ray through this set-up I get severe stuttering and frame dropping on the video.


If I unplug the HDMI from the D2v and switch all components off/on the video plays smoothly.


My other alternative is to route both the video and audio through the Radiance and then use the second HDMI output on the Radiance to send the audio back to the D2v. If I do this the D2v reports the bitstream audio as 2 channel PCM. (Lumagen support have comfirmed that the Radiance has no physical ability to alter the bitstream).


Does anyone have any idea what might be going on here as I am at a bit of a loss?


My final possible option is to route everything through the D2v and then send the video out to the Lumagen, but I am concerned if this extra processing step may affect image quality?


Any help is greatly appreciated!


Thanks


Gareth


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21467152
> 
> 
> I am having an issue running ARC on my D2V whereby the test tone/application goes into a continous loop on any random speaker in any of the five random positions and it will not stop emitting the test tone. It simply does not go onto the next speaker and just remains locked on the specified speaker with the test tone continously emitting. No error occurs and the only way to stop the test tone from emitting is to power off the D2V. I then end the ARC program on the laptop. This happens on two laptops so I don't believe it's the laptop or software. At this point, I am lucky if I can get through a complete sweep of ARC without this issue occurring regularly.
> 
> 
> Attached, is the latest results from running ARC on my D2V. This one, was on position 2 or 3 when suddenly no sound emitted after moving onto the next speaker in sequence. When it finished the L,C,R test tones, it continued to the right surround but no sound/beep for about 10 seconds. After that ARC returned a problem message and allowed me to say to continue. It all completed okay after that. Attached are the charts from this result. Let me what you think of the results.
> 
> 
> The usual problem is with the sound just locking on one speaker and not moving onto the next one. I am running the latest D2V firmware, ARC latest software and using the Keyspan USB Serial Adapter from Anthem. I have reported the issue to Anthem but they are not sure what's up yet.



I had that same problem a while back and Bob suggested that I turn off my firewall during ARC runs.

It worked. I haven't had any problem since.


I also turn off my firewall during firmware upgrades with my D2 and it seems to go much faster without any error messages.

I stick a postit on my laptop to remind me to turn it back on when I'm done with ARC.


I assume this problem is specific to certain firewalls (I use the firewall in Bitdefender) and many people don't have this problem, but it might be worth a try the next time you run ARC.


Tom


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977* /forum/post/21468726
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I'm having a little issue with my system that I am hoping someone can help shed some light on.
> 
> 
> The source is an Oppo BDP-95, and I am trying to use the dual HDMI outputs on it to send the video to my Lumagen Radiance XS, and the audio to my D2v, however when I play a blu-ray through this set-up I get severe stuttering and frame dropping on the video.
> 
> 
> If I unplug the HDMI from the D2v and switch all components off/on the video plays smoothly.
> 
> 
> My other alternative is to route both the video and audio through the Radiance and then use the second HDMI output on the Radiance to send the audio back to the D2v. If I do this the D2v reports the bitstream audio as 2 channel PCM. (Lumagen support have comfirmed that the Radiance has no physical ability to alter the bitstream).
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any idea what might be going on here as I am at a bit of a loss?
> 
> 
> My final possible option is to route everything through the D2v and then send the video out to the Lumagen, but I am concerned if this extra processing step may affect image quality?
> 
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Gareth



Use the Lumagen as a switcher. Feed the audio back to the Anthem. There are some settings in the Lumagen that allow for the audio to be passed back without issue but I don't recall them off the top of my head and I'm at work. I had this same issue for a bit and resolved it by calling Lumagen. They knew which settings to change. Sorry for being vague, I just don't have the stuff in front of me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is also a post in the OPPO threads indicating that the Lumagen is sensitive to the HDMI cables being TOO SHORT.


Try 6 foot, high speed, HDMI cables for the Lumagen input and output to see if that cures the video issue.


Use HDMI 1 from the OPPO for the video -- the connector in the middle of the back panel. Set Primary Output to HDMI 1. Try 1080p/24 OFF. Try HDMI Deep Color OFF. Also try 1080i output. If 1080i works but 1080p does not, that suggests a cable problem. Since HDMI is an end to end protocol, the problem may be the cable to your display.

--Bob


----------



## PlatinumSV

Hi All,

I'm sure it is posted in this thread somewhere, however I've been looking for 45 min and can't find anything. I just ran ARC the latest version on my D2 and when I initially switch to a source I loose the center channel, at which point I have to change the input and then change it back for the sound to return. This never happened prior to ARC. Is there something I'm missing or is this a known issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Joe


----------



## MStanic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21469749
> 
> 
> I had that same problem a while back and Bob suggested that I turn off my firewall during ARC runs.
> 
> It worked. I haven't had any problem since.
> 
> 
> I also turn off my firewall during firmware upgrades with my D2 and it seems to go much faster without any error messages.
> 
> I stick a postit on my laptop to remind me to turn it back on when I'm done with ARC.
> 
> 
> I assume this problem is specific to certain firewalls (I use the firewall in Bitdefender) and many people don't have this problem, but it might be worth a try the next time you run ARC.
> 
> 
> Tom



Thanks. What about devices as I have a very busy network with a full blown Control 4 System integrated with numerous Sonos devices. For example, the problem seems to have started after a C4 HC300 receiver, Sonos ZP90 and two network switches were installed in the same rack as my D2V. There are plenty more devices (Sonos and C4) throughout the whole household also on the same wired/wireless network. They are all ON when I run ARC so could they be interfering?


----------



## MStanic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21467273
> 
> 
> Your charts look good. The only small problem I see is with your Right Front (RF). It's having problems between 100 Hz and 400 Hz. Is it close to a wall or a corner? If so, you can try moving it away from the corner and/or wall to see if that fixes your problem. If you do decide to do move your RF, you can use Quick Measure (QM) to see if it fixes the problem. If it does, then you will have to re-run ARC. However, what you have right now should sound pretty good. So, I suggest you listen to what you have for a while and then decide if you would like to tweak.
> 
> 
> Also, please post your Targets' View.
> 
> 
> What kind of sub do you have? It looks really really really good. It looks so good that it gets my vote for the Sub Hall of Fame. It looks like it qualifies for the Flat Setting as long as it has LF protection. If you have it set to Auto, you can change it to Flat by bringing up your Targets' View, click on the Advance push button, change Auto to Flat, click Ok, click Calculate, save your ARC file, upload it to your D2V, and save User and/or Installer Settings.
> 
> 
> As for the continuous test sweeps, that did happen to me once. I stopped the measurements and rebooted my PC and the problem did not occur anymore. It seems your problem is different from mine because you said that you used a different PC, and the problem still occurred. Hopefully, Anthem or someone on this forum will be able to figure it out for you.




Thanks for the input. Attached, is my targets view. As far as the RF speaker, I can't really move it left or right because of the screen and the fireplace and mantle next to it (very tight fit). If I move it out/forward a bit might it make a difference? See Left/Right speaker pics.


As for a sub, I have the Paradigm SUB 15. What does it mean if I change the sub to flat as you suggest? I'm glad my sub makes it into the Hall of Subs


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21472105
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. Attached, is my targets view. As far as the RF speaker, I can't really move it left or right because of the screen and the fireplace and mantle next to it (very tight fit). If I move it out/forward a bit might it make a difference? See Left/Right speaker pics.
> 
> 
> As for a sub, I have the Paradigm SUB 15. What does it mean if I change the sub to flat as you suggest? I'm glad my sub makes it into the Hall of Subs



You should set your sub to Flat. The Flat setting causes ARC to not roll off the low frequencies and just send them to your sub. This allows you to feel a little more oomph from your sub. Since your sub has built-in protection, it will not try to play any low frequencies that is below its' limit. So, try it out and see if you like it. You *DO NOT* have to rerun ARC if you set it to Flat. Just Calculate and upload your ARC File.


You can try moving your front speakers forward a little and toeing them in towards your listening area. You don't have to toe them in too much. Just a little should be fine. You can use Quick Measure to see the results of moving them forward and toeing them in. If it doesn't show any improvement or make them worse, then you can move them back to their current location. So, make sure you mark the current location before you move them so that you can put them back. If you move them back to their current location, then you will have to upload your ARC File again because Quick Measure will zero out some of your previous ARC settings. If you see that moving your front speakers out and toeing them in still makes your LF look good and it fixes the problem area between 100 Hz and 400 Hz for your RF, then you will have to rerun ARC again.


I hope this was helpful and good luck to you.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21471993
> 
> 
> Thanks. What about devices as I have a very busy network with a full blown Control 4 System integrated with numerous Sonos devices. For example, the problem seems to have started after a C4 HC300 receiver, Sonos ZP90 and two network switches were installed in the same rack as my D2V. There are plenty more devices (Sonos and C4) throughout the whole household also on the same wired/wireless network. They are all ON when I run ARC so could they be interfering?



I do not have nearly the network devices that you do, and am in no way a computer whiz.

All I can say is that when I was having problems with ARC like your's (stuck on one speaker running the sweeps over and over....) those problems disappeared after I disabled my firewall during ARC runs and uploads, and Anthem firmware upgrades went much quicker and smoother with the firewall off.


Can't garantee it will work for you, but its easy enough to try the next time you run ARC.

Hope it helps.

Just remember to turn your firewall back on after your done.


Tom


Also, what Ninja 12 said about repositioning your RF speaker with the help of Quick Measure is excellent advice.

Even a few inches could make a big difference, and if the difference is for the better then you can re-run ARC.

If you do re-run ARC, try turning off your firewall and see if that solves that problem.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I do not have nearly the network devices that you do, and am in no way a computer whiz.
> 
> All I can say is that when I was having problems with ARC like your's (stuck on one speaker running the sweeps over and over....) those problems disappeared after I disabled my firewall during ARC runs and uploads, and Anthem firmware upgrades went much quicker and smoother with the firewall off.
> 
> 
> Can't garantee it will work for you, but its easy enough to try the next time you run ARC.
> 
> Hope it helps.
> 
> Just remember to turn your firewall back on after your done.
> 
> 
> Tom



I've found turning off my wireless connection helps too.

John


----------



## PlatinumSV

Scratch my last post. It's just happening with my oppo BDP-93. I'm sending audio to my D2 via HDMI LPCM and I loss the center channel every once and a while since I ran arc. I need to switch the input to another and back for it to start working again. Any help would be appreciated.


Thanks

Joe


----------



## SimonNo10

Update on the front display of my D2v. I've spoken to the place of purchase and they have arranged to have the display replaced at the nominated service provider. Should be done on the same day so wont be without it for long. Now to pack it up and arrange a courier.


Great service.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21472105
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. Attached, is my targets view. As far as the RF speaker, I can't really move it left or right because of the screen and the fireplace and mantle next to it (very tight fit). If I move it out/forward a bit might it make a difference? See Left/Right speaker pics.
> 
> 
> As for a sub, I have the Paradigm SUB 15. What does it mean if I change the sub to flat as you suggest? I'm glad my sub makes it into the Hall of Subs



I second the recommendation to toe in your front speakers - they are awfully close to the walls.


Your sub must be placed well though - Where is it? Mine (Mirage BPS-400) is in front under the screen and it has a little 30 Hz hump. I have not set it to flat yet.


PS - nice Stewart screen, I have the same one


----------



## AVfile

Why does firewall and wireless seem to affect the execution of ARC? This makes no sense to me. No offense and I know many have made this observation but it is bordering on superstition! Perhaps Anthem software engineers should investigate.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why does firewall and wireless seem to affect the execution of ARC? This makes no sense to me. No offense and I know many have made this observation but it is bordering on superstition! Perhaps Anthem software engineers should investigate.



Not superstition, just a direct causal affect from turning the wireless off or disabling the firewall. Just another example of computers doing weird stuff









John


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, we'll try it in-house likely with 1080p for Custom, or VGA variants for JVC-based projectors.



Hi Nick,

Im having a bit of an issue with my oppo BDP-93 and my D2. I'm sending audio to my D2 via HDMI LPCM and I lose the center channel every once and a while(only upon startup, never in the middle of a movie) I need to switch the input to another and back for it to start working again. I'm running HDMI 1 from the oppo as video only to my display and HDMI 2 to my D2. It is the only device that I'm having this issue with as all others are sending a bitstream signal, not PCM. I did however just try another BluRay player that I had in my bedroom and set that to output PCM over HDMI and I had the same thing happen. Like I said its not constant and the quick fix is to switch inputs back and forth, but is this a known sync issue, or a setting issue on my end. I'm running ver. 1.47f on my D2 which was installed at Anthem as my unit is just back from a checkup. Any help would be appreciated.


Thanks in Advance

Joe


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Nick,
> 
> Im having a bit of an issue with my oppo BDP-93 and my D2. I'm sending audio to my D2 via HDMI LPCM and I lose the center channel every once and a while(only upon startup, never in the middle of a movie) I need to switch the input to another and back for it to start working again. I'm running HDMI 1 from the oppo as video only to my display and HDMI 2 to my D2. It is the only device that I'm having this issue with as all others are sending a bitstream signal, not PCM. I did however just try another BluRay player that I had in my bedroom and set that to output PCM over HDMI and I had the same thing happen. Like I said its not constant and the quick fix is to switch inputs back and forth, but is this a known sync issue, or a setting issue on my end. I'm running ver. 1.47f on my D2 which was installed at Anthem as my unit is just back from a checkup. Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks in Advance
> 
> Joe



Hi again Nick, it's actually more than the center. It's the Center and Rears, I've just noticed that when this occurs I'm only getting audio from my mains.


Joe


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^^please contact tech support. I don't know why v1.47f would have been installed since it's only meant for special cases, and offhand the only *possible* reason I can think of for what's happening is a 2.0 Music config being misapplied, perhaps with Auto-LFE setting for speaker config in the mix.


I haven't been in tech support for over 2 years, am not up to date on many issues, and just here sometimes on breaks...


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^please contact tech support. I don't know why v1.47f would have been installed since it's only meant for special cases, and offhand the only *possible* reason I can think of for what's happening is a 2.0 Music config being misapplied, perhaps with Auto-LFE setting for speaker config in the mix.
> 
> 
> I haven't been in tech support for over 2 years, am not up to date on many issues, and just here sometimes on breaks...



Thanks Nick


----------



## Bruceko

Any official announcement on the 1.4 update for the D2V?

I thought maybe CES would


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/21478495
> 
> 
> Any official announcement on the 1.4 update for the D2V?
> 
> I thought maybe CES would



I saw somewhere that Anthem will do free updates for purchases after July 2011? I'm sure that's not the case (i understand that to be dealer dependent) as I asked this here before, but ask again in case that has changed. Also, has the upgrade cost been announced? thanks!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I saw somewhere that Anthem will do free updates for purchases after July 2011? I'm sure that's not the case (i understand that to be dealer dependent) as I asked this here before, but ask again in case that has changed. Also, has the upgrade cost been announced? thanks!



Nothing has changed since I answered your question.

John


----------



## Orup70

My Anthem D2v died this morning!










Turned it off like usual yesterday and this morning it was completely dead. No response on the remote, nothing when switching it on and off at the back, nothing when removing the power cord and inserting it again, or even when switching the power cord to another one from a working item. As dead as it gets.


I live in the south of Sweden with a very stable electricity grid and there was no power outage last night (all digital clocks are fine...).


Any thought on how to go on with the troubleshooting? Are there any accessible fuses in the D2v?


Thanks for any input!


/ Påhl


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Orup70* /forum/post/21480605
> 
> 
> My Anthem D2v died this morning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned it off like usual yesterday and this morning it was completely dead. No response on the remote, nothing when switching it on and off at the back, nothing when removing the power cord and inserting it again, or even when switching the power cord to another one from a working item. As dead as it gets.
> 
> 
> I live in the south of Sweden with a very stable electricity grid and there was no power outage last night (all digital clocks are fine...).
> 
> 
> Any thought on how to go on with the troubleshooting? Are there any accessible fuses in the D2v?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any input!
> 
> 
> / Påhl



Sorry to hear about your unfortunate incident with your D2V.


A couple of quick things you can do.


1) Make sure the power button is on on the back of your D2V

2) Plug your D2V into a different outlet. If that works, check your circuit box to make sure the breaker didn't trip for the outlet that your D2V was plugged into.


If no luck with those two, then I suggest you contact Anthem ASAP.


----------



## Orup70




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21480814
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear about your unfortunate incident with your D2V.
> 
> 
> A couple of quick things you can do.
> 
> 
> 1) Make sure the power button is on on the back of your D2V
> 
> 2) Plug your D2V into a different outlet. If that works, check your circuit box to make sure the breaker didn't trip for the outlet that your D2V was plugged into.
> 
> 
> If no luck with those two, then I suggest you contact Anthem ASAP.



Thanks for the input!


1. I have tried switching the power button on the back on/off many times and have also tried to detach/attach the power cord without luck.


2. I have my satellite box and PS3 attached to the same outlet and they are working fine.


Maybe the firmware has "crashed" badly? I think I remember a post on this thread where someone had a similar issue where the front lights, as controlled by the firmware, remained off but he was able to connect a computer to the RS232C connector at the back and update the firmware. But I'm usually not that lucky...







...but it might be worth a try?


----------



## bluemark81

Every once in a while when I am watching tv (Bell FiberOp System) through my D2v, I get intermittent flashes of the blue screen. It only lasts a split second but none the less, it is annoying. I am using component video cables instead of the HDMI which created other issues. Does anyone have any suggestions?


Thanks


----------



## rovingtravler

I thought there was a fuse just behind the power plug and switch on the back. You would have to unscrew that board and look. I have not done this for a while so I could easily be wrong.


If there is a fuse and it is blown, hopefully problem solved. If there is not...does the internal powersupply look charred or have a smell?


Hopefully it is the fuse.


----------



## Orup70

Isn't it strange? I had just bought a HDMI switch and was unloading my old amplifier (not as heavy as my P5 but still a hefty 71 pounds) and my non-HDMI A/V Processor, when my wife greets me in door with "it's working now".










Kind of mixed feeling, for a short while, about all the unnecessary work. But now it feels great again.










But I have absolutely no idea what went wrong this morning and why and how it managed to fix itself. Maybe a mechanical glitch or a strange firmware crash that locked the d2v for a while and then maybe restarted itself?


A little bit worried about the future. Glitches tend to repeat themselves, but for now I'm just happy!!


----------



## steven2583

I had a dead d2v a couple of years ago. It died for about three days. Turn it off and on many time and nothing. Unplugged everthing and still same issue. I let it sit over the weekend and didn't touch it. I decided to try it one more time Sunday night before I called Anthem on Monday. It came back alive. I haven't had a problem like that sense.


----------



## WildZero

Hello,


I moved to a new flat and wanted to do a new ARC measurement. But somehow the upload does not work anymore. I get the error message "Failed to enter debug mode"










I tried resetting to factory default but that did not help.

Audio and Video seems to work normal.


Any ideas what I can do? :-(


Chris


Edit: I am using VMware on a MacBook pro + Keyspan USA-19HS. Could the problem lie in the port settings of the Keyspan serieal adapter? I was using a PC before.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/21483262
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I moved to a new flat and wanted to do a new ARC measurement. But somehow the upload does not work anymore. I get the error message "Failed to enter debug mode"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried resetting to factory default but that did not help.
> 
> Audio and Video seems to work normal.
> 
> 
> Any ideas what I can do? :-(
> 
> 
> Chris



Call Anthem tech support. The problem is likely on your Windows PC and not in the Anthem. You may need to uninstall and re-install the ARC application.

--Bob


----------



## Bigmoviefan

I am thinking of switching from TWC to AT&T Uverse. I currently have an Anthem D2 with HDMI 1.1. HDMI of the D2 works with Both the TWC DVR and with the DirecTV DVR (which I have for NFL Sunday ticket). I wanted to know if any of you have AT&T Uverse with a D2 and does the HDMI work with it?

Be terrible to find out after they installed it that it did not work.

Thanks for any help you can give me.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/21484147
> 
> 
> I am thinking of switching from TWC to AT&T Uverse. I currently have an Anthem D2 with HDMI 1.1. HDMI of the D2 works with Both the TWC DVR and with the DirecTV DVR (which I have for NFL Sunday ticket). I wanted to know if any of you have AT&T Uverse with a D2 and does the HDMI work with it?
> 
> Be terrible to find out after they installed it that it did not work.
> 
> Thanks for any help you can give me.



HDMI is a transport protocol.


It does not know what data it is transporting.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21484185
> 
> 
> HDMI is a transport protocol.
> 
> 
> It does not know what data it is transporting.



I will re-word my question. If anyone uses AT& T Uverse

With a D2 have you had any switching issues

With HDMI input?


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21484185
> 
> 
> HDMI is a transport protocol.
> 
> 
> It does not know what data it is transporting.



Sorry my question was worded incorrectly.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry my question was worded incorrectly.



Don't worry, it was a good question. The good Dr must have missed all the recent "sat/cable boxes HDMI implementations suck" posts recently


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bigmoviefan* /forum/post/21484804
> 
> 
> Sorry my question was worded incorrectly.



I gave you the *CORRECT* answer - reword it all you want.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21484876
> 
> 
> Don't worry, it was a good question. The good Dr must have missed all the recent "sat/cable boxes HDMI implementations suck" posts recently



Boxes that do not follow the protocol guidelines can screw things up.


I use HDMI on my D2 with THINGS that need it - Hi-Def Video and Audio.


My 4 Cable boxes (DVRs) are connected to my D2 via *Component*.

*NO HDMI needed.*


----------



## AVfile

Unless I missed it, Anthem has not announced all the bug fixes that are in the latest firmware. The release notes just say something vague like "all known reproducible bugs are fixed".


NEWS FLASH


The DTS-HD level mismatch is fixed!!


I'm not sure what version it was fixed in but I'm guessing one of the 2.12 betas, since it wasn't fixed in 2.11. I'm at the latest 2.12x and just tested it - all 7 channels are spot on. Good work Anthem!


----------



## obie_fl

Geesh Doc you give the guy a snippy answer then he apologizes and you give another snippy answer, you off your meds or something?










Some people actually want to use those fancy new HDMI connections on their expensive gear. Not everybody wants to run four cables instead of one or do needless D/A and A/D conversions. I have no issue with you using component but that doesn't mean you have to give out snippy little one liners that add nothing in the way of explanation or add to the conversation. For all we know the guy wants to do 3D and needs to use HDMI on his AT&T box.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/21485033
> 
> 
> For all we know the guy wants to do 3D and needs to use HDMI on his AT&T box.


*NO 3D with a D2*


----------



## obie_fl

Have you tried running "side by side" or "over-under" 3D which most satellite and cable providers use through the D2? You might be surprised.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/21485134
> 
> 
> Have you tried running "side by side" or "over-under" 3D which most satellite and cable providers use through the D2? You might be surprised.



THEN in theory - a PS3 on 3D should work by your definition.


No I use a Panny 310 for 3D.


None of my Cable Boxes are 3D.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21485150
> 
> 
> THEN in theory - a PS3 on 3D should work by your definition.
> 
> 
> No I use a Panny 310 for 3D.
> 
> 
> None of my Cable Boxes are 3D.



It's the query for 3D that doesn't work on a D2. I can get some games on the PS3 working in 3D on my D2 by setting the TV manually to 3D. Any movies I've tried won't let you set the option in the movie unless the query for 3D passes.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21484876
> 
> 
> Don't worry, it was a good question. The good Dr must have missed all the recent "sat/cable boxes HDMI implementations suck" posts recently



Thanks. I was just trying to find out if HDMI switching issues

Have happened with D2 owners and Uverse DVRs. That's all.


----------



## Bigmoviefan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/21485033
> 
> 
> Geesh Doc you give the guy a snippy answer then he apologizes and you give another snippy answer, you off your meds or something?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some people actually want to use those fancy new HDMI connections on their expensive gear. Not everybody wants to run four cables instead of one or do needless D/A and A/D conversions. I have no issue with you using component but that doesn't mean you have to give out snippy little one liners that add nothing in the way of explanation or add to the conversation. For all we know the guy wants to do 3D and needs to use HDMI on his AT&T box.



Thank you!


----------



## Bigmoviefan

My current TWC HD DVR (Samsung)only has HDMI for digital sound out. No digital out other HDMI. ( no digital coaxial output) It does have right and left analog audio out if plugging

Into stereo receiver. But if you want 5.1 Dolby digital you must use

An HDMI. Just wondering if Uverse has any switching issues(first TWC HD DVR would not switch via HDMI Without dropping out) simply wanted to know

If anyone has AT&T Uverse and AN Anthem D2 hooked up via HDMI and if they had any issues ! That's all. Thanks!


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Unless I missed it, Anthem has not announced all the bug fixes that are in the latest firmware. The release notes just say something vague like "all known reproducible bugs are fixed".
> 
> 
> NEWS FLASH
> 
> 
> The DTS-HD level mismatch is fixed!!
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what version it was fixed in but I'm guessing one of the 2.12 betas, since it wasn't fixed in 2.11. I'm at the latest 2.12x and just tested it - all 7 channels are spot on. Good work Anthem!



Is the 2.12x still rated as "beta"?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21485150
> 
> 
> THEN in theory - a PS3 on 3D should work by your definition.
> 
> 
> No I use a Panny 310 for 3D.
> 
> 
> None of my Cable Boxes are 3D.



You lost me on your logic there. I haven't tried 3D on my PS3 through the D2 I assume it would *not* work as it outputs packed frames not sure about games though. I assume you connect your Pany straight to the display as it is packed frame also. Most satellite and cable companies use side by side or over-under for bandwidth reasons. I've done 3D through my D2 using my cable box as they use over-under not packed frames like BDs. In fact I've watched several cable 3D PPV shows via HDMI going through my D2 you just have to remember to match resolutions in my case 720P.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Use the Lumagen as a switcher. Feed the audio back to the Anthem. There are some settings in the Lumagen that allow for the audio to be passed back without issue but I don't recall them off the top of my head and I'm at work. I had this same issue for a bit and resolved it by calling Lumagen. They knew which settings to change. Sorry for being vague, I just don't have the stuff in front of me.



Kris, have you ever tried custom refresh rates with the Anthem VXP? I've got mine running at 72Hz and I think it is looking very smooth with 24p film. I need to switch back to 60Hz for video of course.


Can you recommend some test patterns for testing this? I have Video Essentials, AVIA, DVE (DVD, HDDVD, BD).


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Is the 2.12x still rated as "beta"?



Yes but it seems just as stable as 2.10.


----------



## Mark Harrison

January 11th, 2012 -- by AVguide Staff

Source: AVGuide


Anthem Statement D2v and Anthem AVM 50v Processors Get 3D: CES 2012


Las Vegas, NV – International CES 2011 – January 10-13 – Venetian 30-336 – Anthem, a leading manufacturer of high-end electronics for music, home theater and distributed audio systems, announces a major upgrade to the award-winning Anthem Statement D2v and Anthem AVM 50v. Owners of these high performance A/V processors will now be able to switch between 3D sources on HDMI inputs one through four and HDMI output one, or enable automatic passthrough as a per-source menu option for video output configuration.


A physical upgrade for existing owners of the two Anthem preamplifier/processors will also be available via a new dealer-installed circuit board which replaces two smaller boards for HDMI inputs one through four and HDMI output one, followed by a software update. Complementing the 3D switching and automatic passthrough features, the upgrade equips the Statement D2v and Anthem AVM 50V with video processor bypass for 2D, useful for reference quality video content that doesn’t require cleanup or scaling. The on-screen status display information does not apply in “Through” mode, since video processing is bypassed.


For additional convenience, the upgraded processors automatically match the output refresh rate to the source’s frame refresh rate which is useful for sources that output a mix between

24, 50, and 60 Hz.


In developing the upgrades, Anthem also put both A/V processors through rigorous compliance testing to achieve HDMI 1.4a certification. As a pioneer in the troubleshooting and integration of HDMI, Anthem understands how to utilize these connections to their fullest. The processors are equipped with four additional HDMI 1.3c inputs (for a total of eight) and one additional HDMI 1.3c output (for a total of two), delivering unprecedented connection capabilities for a preamplifier/processor. All inputs and outputs offer Deep-Color support (36-bit).


Anthem’s heralded Room Correction System (ARC-1™) also comes standard with the Statement D2v 3D and AVM 50v 3D. While equalizing frequency response in a room to achieve some generic (i.e. "flat") response is a common approach to solving problems with room acoustics, it results in an unnatural-sounding spectral balance since it does not account for in-room cues that the human ear/brain mechanism expects. ARC is a true audiophile solution: it differs from other systems in that it uses proprietary processing to compute each speaker's in-room frequency response and then computes a target frequency response for each to yield the most natural sound as determined by multiple double-blind listening tests spanning many years.


The estimated availability of the Statement D2v 3D and AVM 50v 3D is Q1 2012. Estimated US FMV for the Anthem Statement D2v 3D is $8,999 and for the Anthem AVM 50v 3D $5,999. The US FMV for the 3D upgrade kit is TBA. For more information, please visit www.anthemav.com


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Harrison* /forum/post/21485629
> 
> 
> January 11th, 2012 -- by AVguide Staff
> 
> Source: AVGuide
> 
> 
> Anthem Statement D2v and Anthem AVM 50v Processors Get 3D: CES 2012
> 
> 
> Las Vegas, NV – International CES 2011 – January 10-13 – Venetian 30-336 – Anthem, a leading manufacturer of high-end electronics for music, home theater and distributed audio systems, announces a major upgrade to the award-winning Anthem Statement D2v and Anthem AVM 50v. Owners of these high performance A/V processors will now be able to switch between 3D sources on HDMI inputs one through four and HDMI output one, or enable automatic passthrough as a per-source menu option for video output configuration.
> 
> 
> A physical upgrade for existing owners of the two Anthem preamplifier/processors will also be available via a new dealer-installed circuit board which replaces two smaller boards for HDMI inputs one through four and HDMI output one, followed by a software update. Complementing the 3D switching and automatic passthrough features, the upgrade equips the Statement D2v and Anthem AVM 50V with video processor bypass for 2D, useful for reference quality video content that doesn’t require cleanup or scaling. The on-screen status display information does not apply in “Through” mode, since video processing is bypassed.
> 
> 
> For additional convenience, the upgraded processors automatically match the output refresh rate to the source’s frame refresh rate which is useful for sources that output a mix between
> 
> 24, 50, and 60 Hz.
> 
> 
> In developing the upgrades, Anthem also put both A/V processors through rigorous compliance testing to achieve HDMI 1.4a certification. As a pioneer in the troubleshooting and integration of HDMI, Anthem understands how to utilize these connections to their fullest. The processors are equipped with four additional HDMI 1.3c inputs (for a total of eight) and one additional HDMI 1.3c output (for a total of two), delivering unprecedented connection capabilities for a preamplifier/processor. All inputs and outputs offer Deep-Color support (36-bit).
> 
> 
> Anthem’s heralded Room Correction System (ARC-1™) also comes standard with the Statement D2v 3D and AVM 50v 3D. While equalizing frequency response in a room to achieve some generic (i.e. "flat") response is a common approach to solving problems with room acoustics, it results in an unnatural-sounding spectral balance since it does not account for in-room cues that the human ear/brain mechanism expects. ARC is a true audiophile solution: it differs from other systems in that it uses proprietary processing to compute each speaker's in-room frequency response and then computes a target frequency response for each to yield the most natural sound as determined by multiple double-blind listening tests spanning many years.
> 
> 
> The estimated availability of the Statement D2v 3D and AVM 50v 3D is Q1 2012. Estimated US FMV for the Anthem Statement D2v 3D is $8,999 and for the Anthem AVM 50v 3D $5,999. The US FMV for the 3D upgrade kit is TBA. For more information, please visit www.anthemav.com



Cool Beans! .... wonder what the upgrade price would be?


----------



## BladeRnR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21485150
> 
> 
> THEN in theory - a PS3 on 3D should work by your definition.
> 
> 
> No I use a Panny 310 for 3D.
> 
> 
> None of my Cable Boxes are 3D.



Relax mate.


Life is generally smoother and people more amenable if you don't *shout* at them. Not everyone is right all of the time.


Blade


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Anybody here with a Harmony RC?

What is so special with the Mode command in the D2v RC that the Harmony is unable to comprehend?

This is the only command I never managed to get the Harmony to learn.

Help appreciated.


Thanks


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21485581
> 
> 
> Kris, have you ever tried custom refresh rates with the Anthem VXP? I've got mine running at 72Hz and I think it is looking very smooth with 24p film. I need to switch back to 60Hz for video of course.
> 
> 
> Can you recommend some test patterns for testing this? I have Video Essentials, AVIA, DVE (DVD, HDDVD, BD).



Can't say I have. I don't really see a reason for it with my setup. I just pass the native 1080p24 signal from my BD player to the display as is. The FPD Benchmark Blu-ray disc has a lot of different motion tests on it that may work well for testing out different frame rates and their affect on resolution. But I don't know where you can get it in the wild. I got one from a manufacturer a few years ago.


----------



## AbMagFab

Just got out of the Anthem suite at CES, and only a couple things new:

New M1 class D mono amps, with 1KW into 8ohms, selling for $3500 retail
New 3D capable versions of the 50v, D2v, and the AVRs, available by end of Q1
Upgrade to D2v and 50v HDMI boards (hardware) for ~$500, same timeframe


The M1 amps are nice, but a really narrow target audience of people really into music. No plans for a class D multichannel amp (a la P5). But they do have plans for a 2-channel pre-pro to pair with the M1s, audio only.


For 3D, only the top 4 HDMI ports will be 1.4a, and only the first output will be 1.4a. They're having issues getting the HDMI certification, which is the cause of the delay.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Keep On Tweakin'!*


Tweakin', like the doo-dah man

once told me, "You gotta have a plan.

Sometimes the tricks ain't worth a damn,

if you don't like the sound!"


What in the world ever became of your deep bass?

Seems to me, you know, it isn't the same.

Grateful Dead use to shake up the whole place!

Now all a friend can say is, "Ain't it a shame?"


Sometimes the light's all shinin' on me;

other times I can barely see.

Must recalibrate TV!

What a long, strange clip it's been.


ARCin', for the 13th time!

Neighbor says he's gonna drop a dime

on me, if I don't turn it down!

But I keep ARCin' on and on!


Sometimes the light's all shinin' on me;

other times I can barely see.

Now I need to add 3D!

What a long, strange clip it's been.


Tweakin', got it dialed in!

Whoa whoa baby, what a silly grin!

Wife says, she's gonna move back in!

But I'll keep Tweakin' on and on!


--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




----------



## tngiloy

When are the tickets going on sale for the *Bob and the Tweaktones* national tour??


Are you planning to come to Redrocks??


----------



## PlatinumSV

Am I missing something, or is there no independent source volume gain or reduction within the setup menu?


----------



## gtx01

At the suggestion of Anthem Support I just loaded v2.12x in the hopes it would resolve a problem I reported to them back in Oct 2010 and they eventually said they'd reproduced.


Unfortunately it didn't fix the problem so I think their statement that v2.12x contains "Fixes for last known reproducible bugs." is incorrect.


To add insult to injury after I loaded v2.12x neither of my HDMI connected devices would produce a picture, all I got was a red or blue screen. I reloaded v2.11 and everything worked again, except of course my original problem.


I know this is still beta software but given they think it already fixes all existing problems I'm not optimistic that the final version is going to resolve a problem that's being outstanding for over a year.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/21492351
> 
> 
> At the suggestion of Anthem Support I just loaded v2.12x in the hopes it would resolve a problem I reported to them back in Oct 2010 and they eventually said they'd reproduced.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately it didn't fix the problem so I think their statement that v2.12x contains "Fixes for last known reproducible bugs." is incorrect.
> 
> 
> To add insult to injury after I loaded v2.12x neither of my HDMI connected devices would produce a picture, all I got was a red or blue screen. I reloaded v2.11 and everything worked again, except of course my original problem.
> 
> 
> I know this is still beta software but given they think it already fixes all existing problems I'm not optimistic that the final version is going to resolve a problem that's being outstanding for over a year.



On my old D2 it was usually advised to disconnect all hdmi device before firmware update, I don't know if it is still true for the newer D2v but it could be that you have a corrupted firmware update.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21491993
> 
> 
> Am I missing something, or is there no independent source volume gain or reduction within the setup menu?



8. Analog Input Levels


Cheers


----------



## slots1

I asked at the anthem suite about a future D3 and as usual was told it was off in the future at least a year. I did exchange my D2 for a D2v a little over a year ago. I just could not wait any longer. I just purchased a Pioneer 1021-k for 299 from new egg for another room in my house for 299. It has everything on it, including internet connection for streaming whatever you want and 3d hdmi 1.4a. It sounds pretty decent also.

No, I am not giving up my D2v, I love it. Yes, the Pioneer is mass produced. But it is interesting that we do not even have usb connections on the D2v.


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/21492374
> 
> 
> On my old D2 it was usually advised to disconnect all hdmi device before firmware update, I don't know if it is still true for the newer D2v but it could be that you have a corrupted firmware update.



I didn't disconnect the HDMI cables as they're difficult to get to but I did power of all other components at the mains, which is what I normally do. This has always worked for other firmware updates, unless 2.12x is more sensitive.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/21492553
> 
> 
> I didn't disconnect the HDMI cables as they're difficult to get to but I did power of all other components at the mains, which is what I normally do. This has always worked for other firmware updates, unless 2.12x is more sensitive.



I have left everything as is before the last 3 updates and the process worked fine. The ARC program says to do this but it was for an older pj from sony that neccessitated that. Anthem has said it is not necessary now. However, do it the way you are most comfortable.

John


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21492380
> 
> 
> 8. Analog Input Levels
> 
> 
> Cheers



Thanks, but I know that there is analog input adjustments. I was wondering if somewhere buried within the menu there was digital source volume offsets as my previous MC-12 had.


----------



## PlatinumSV

Here's another question. I'm not sure if anyone has actually checked this, but because of an issue I was having I realized that when I'm feeding a 48k pcm signal to my D2 via HDMI from my Oppo BDP-93 (At least that's what it says is playing when I hit the info button on the Oppo) and hit the select button on my D2 to see the input signal, it says 44.1k. Is this normal? Has anyone else noticed? I know the end result is 24/194 output, but shouldn't it say 48k?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21493088
> 
> 
> Thanks, but I know that there is analog input adjustments. I was wondering if somewhere buried within the menu there was digital source volume offsets as my previous MC-12 had.



Nope, no volume trims on a per Source basis.


Also note that the primary purpose of the Analog Input Level adjustments is to correct for the different voltages various Source devices put out on their Analog audio outputs. I.e., adjust as necessary to maximize the input level meter without clipping.


Such a mismatch can't happen with Digital audio inputs.


----------------------------------


Dolby Volume (D2v and AVM 50v only) can be used to limit volume variations from a given Source -- at some loss of audio quality.


Keep in mind that for movie content, much of the volume differences you hear will be due simply to the way the movie audio track was authored. I.e., it is expected that you'll likely need to adjust volume movie by movie.

--Bob


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21493158
> 
> 
> Nope, no volume trims on a per Source basis.
> 
> 
> Also note that the primary purpose of the Analog Input Level adjustments is to correct for the different voltages various Source devices put out on their Analog audio outputs. I.e., adjust as necessary to maximize the input level meter without clipping.
> 
> 
> Such a mismatch can't happen with Digital audio inputs.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume (D2v and AVM 50v only) can be used to limit volume variations from a given Source -- at some loss of audio quality.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that for movie content, much of the volume differences you hear will be due simply to the way the movie audio track was authored. I.e., it is expected that you'll likely need to adjust volume movie by movie.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, Did you see my other ?. I'm getting a reading of 44.1k input even on SACD's. Is this normal or not?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21493116
> 
> 
> Here's another question. I'm not sure if anyone has actually checked this, but because of an issue I was having I realized that when I'm feeding a 48k pcm signal to my D2 via HDMI from my Oppo BDP-93 (At least that's what it says is playing when I hit the info button on the Oppo) and hit the select button on my D2 to see the input signal, it says 44.1k. Is this normal? Has anyone else noticed? I know the end result is 24/194 output, but shouldn't it say 48k?



The Oppo is reporting what's being read off the disc -- which is usually, but not always the same as what goes out as output. The D2 is reporting what it is receiving as input. My recollection is this is a known D2 bug, but check with Anthem tech support.


In the Oppo, be sure you have HDMI Audio LPCM (not Auto) set -- and SACD Output PCM.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/21492524
> 
> 
> I asked at the anthem suite about a future D3 and as usual was told it was off in the future at least a year. I did exchange my D2 for a D2v a little over a year ago. I just could not wait any longer. I just purchased a Pioneer 1021-k for 299 from new egg for another room in my house for 299. It has everything on it, including internet connection for streaming whatever you want and 3d hdmi 1.4a. It sounds pretty decent also.
> 
> No, I am not giving up my D2v, I love it. Yes, the Pioneer is mass produced. But it is interesting that we do not even have usb connections on the D2v.



The whole point of buying something like the D2v is because you believe in the value of "separates" -- buying separate components with each of them focussed on doing a few things well.


For USB media playback, consider a media box or a universal player like the Oppos connected into the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/21492351
> 
> 
> At the suggestion of Anthem Support I just loaded v2.12x in the hopes it would resolve a problem I reported to them back in Oct 2010 and they eventually said they'd reproduced.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately it didn't fix the problem so I think their statement that v2.12x contains "Fixes for last known reproducible bugs." is incorrect.
> 
> 
> To add insult to injury after I loaded v2.12x neither of my HDMI connected devices would produce a picture, all I got was a red or blue screen. I reloaded v2.11 and everything worked again, except of course my original problem.
> 
> 
> I know this is still beta software but given they think it already fixes all existing problems I'm not optimistic that the final version is going to resolve a problem that's being outstanding for over a year.



What was the original problem you were trying to resolve?


Although Nick has stated here that "test" firmware V2.12x is supposed to work on D2v and AVM 50v units which have *NOT* received the 3D pass-through hardware upgrade, I don't believe they have finished testing it yet for that hardware. The comment you were referring to in the release notes for V2.12x was, I believe referring to known issues related to supporting the upgraded hardware. Even there, I suspect the comment was a bit, umm, optimistic. I.e., the engineers thought they had everything nailed down, but you don't REALLY know until the testers start getting mean with it.


NOTE: It is important that you let Anthem tech support know that V2.12x did not work in your setup. They may need additional information on your Source devices and Display.


--------------------------------


Folks, now that the new D2v 3D is announced, I don't think Nick would mind me confirming that I've been testing the new hardware and software for some time now. The new firmware, which was needed of course to support the new hardware, introduced quite a few problems, and Anthem has been diligently fixing them all. V2.12x is *A LOT* better than what I started out with, but it is still not done yet. And since the focus has been on getting the new firmware ready for release of the new hardware, it doesn't surprise me that there are some lingering issues regarding support for the old hardware. Be patient. They are on the case.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/21487506
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Anybody here with a Harmony RC?
> 
> What is so special with the Mode command in the D2v RC that the Harmony is unable to comprehend?
> 
> This is the only command I never managed to get the Harmony to learn.
> 
> Help appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks



The Mode button has different functionality for "press" and for "press and hold" and for "press and hold then release then press again".


As such, you probably need Harmony to replace your "learned" command with one that's been tweaked by their command editors. Frankly, at this point I'm surprised it isn't already correct in their database for the D2v as they've had a correct version of the command for several years now.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21493170
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, Did you see my other ?. I'm getting a reading of 44.1k input even on SACD's. Is this normal or not?



Another thought here. If you are using *BOTH* HDMI outputs of the Oppo you must use HDMI 2 for audio. HDMI 1 will carry a stereo down-mix when both outputs are live. HDMI 1 is the connector in the middle of the Oppo back panel. HDMI 2 is the connector on the side of the back panel opposite the power cord.

--Bob


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Another thought here. If you are using *BOTH* HDMI outputs of the Oppo you must use HDMI 2 for audio. HDMI 1 will carry a stereo down-mix when both outputs are live. HDMI 1 is the connector in the middle of the Oppo back panel. HDMI 2 is the connector on the side of the back panel opposite the power cord.
> 
> --Bob



I have HDMI 1 connected to my display and set to Video Only, and HDMI 2 connected to my D2. Would the video only on 1 effect 2.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21493235
> 
> 
> The comment you were referring to in the release notes for V2.12x was, I believe referring to known issues related to supporting the upgraded hardware. Even there, I suspect the comment was a bit, umm, optimistic.



I suspected as much too. However software release notes should list all the bugs that were fixed, no matter how tedious. When the new code goes to general release, it's going to be difficult for them to make proper a release note if they didn't keep the changes documented along the way.


Case in point, the DTS HD level mismatch was fixed recently but we weren't notified.... By the way it would be nice to know what the cause of this problem was, seeing as how their previous certification tests passed.


----------



## Texas steve

2.12X (and W) gave me the same problem with HDMI inputs, back to 2.11 all worked again. I reported to TechSupport and was told "its possible as they have not done much testing on D2Vs w/o 3d board. We must remember that this is Beta!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/21492351
> 
> 
> At the suggestion of Anthem Support I just loaded v2.12x in the hopes it would resolve a problem I reported to them back in Oct 2010 and they eventually said they'd reproduced.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately it didn't fix the problem so I think their statement that v2.12x contains "Fixes for last known reproducible bugs." is incorrect.
> 
> 
> To add insult to injury after I loaded v2.12x neither of my HDMI connected devices would produce a picture, all I got was a red or blue screen. I reloaded v2.11 and everything worked again, except of course my original problem.
> 
> 
> I know this is still beta software but given they think it already fixes all existing problems I'm not optimistic that the final version is going to resolve a problem that's being outstanding for over a year.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have HDMI 1 connected to my display and set to Video Only, and HDMI 2 connected to my D2. Would the video only on 1 effect 2.



No, it only affects HDMI 1.

--Bob


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21493235
> 
> 
> What was the original problem you were trying to resolve?
> 
> 
> 
> NOTE: It is important that you let Anthem tech support know that V2.12x did not work in your setup. They may need additional information on your Source devices and Display.--Bob



The original problem is that I'm getting muting on certain music tracks, always the same tracks at the same point. This happens with both my CD player and the ripped version via my Sonos. With analogue connections the tracks play fine so it points to a problem with the Anthem DAC. This only started when I upgraded to v2.10/v2.11, I never had the problem on v2.8. Anthem say they have reproduced the problem.


I have sent an email to Anthem Tech Support telling them what happened when I loaded v2.12x .


----------



## dkojevnikov

I bought OPPO DBD-93 and I have a bunch of weird HDMI issues with my AVM 50V. Everything worked well for a month and today I decided to replace the old HDMI cable between them with the new one provided with OPPO (1.4a think one with ethernet and 3D compatible). The problem is that no matter what I do there is no picture from OPPO through AVM 50V with that cable where as direct OPPO -> TV works fine. Does Anthem have issue with latest 1.4a HDMI cables?


Then I replaced it with the old cable and got the same effect, in 90% of cases picture from OPPO just disappears and no reboot/power down helps. In 10% of cases I get picture but after several switching off/on/change input it disappears (Anthem showing just no video/no audio in status) so it is rather unstable.


The only way to make it work more or less stable is to connect AVM 50V with OPPO through HDMI2 (different video chip). Is it a well-known issue with Anthem 50V with OPPO (I believe it is Anthem as OPPO works fine through other equipment)? Is there a hope that Anthem will fix this issue? Is newer beta API or new 3D board will fix handshake issue with OPPO? Why did it suddenly start behaving like that? What kind of HDMI cables is compatible with AVM 50V?


By the way, when connected through OPPO's HDMI1 I can see 240p mode at short moments after signal disappears which looks really strange to me. And in some cases instead of video signal format on the LCD screen I simply see "MAIN" instead of "2.1" or "5.1" for those sources where I am getting problems.


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21493640
> 
> 
> I suspected as much too. However software release notes should list all the bugs that were fixed, no matter how tedious. When the new code goes to general release, it's going to be difficult for them to make proper a release note if they didn't keep the changes documented along the way.
> 
> 
> Case in point, the DTS HD level mismatch was fixed recently but we weren't notified.... By the way it would be nice to know what the cause of this problem was, seeing as how their previous certification tests passed.



I wish Tech Support knew which bugs had been fixed. If they'd known when I asked I wouldn't have wasted my time loading v2.12x to try and fix the problem I'm having. Their response was 'not sure what's in it, give it a try if you want and see what happens'.


I accept this is beta software and may be prone to cliches but if you're trying to fix a specific issue it would be really nice to know if a particular version is supposed to fix it or not


----------



## MStanic

Okay, so I toed in the L/R speakers and reran ARC. Attached are the measurments which include setting my Paradigm SUB15 to FLAT. What do you all think about these results?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, so I toed in the L/R speakers and reran ARC. Attached are the measurments which include setting my Paradigm SUB15 to FLAT. What do you all think about these results?



Looks excellent. That sub is now Hall of Fame worthy







this should sound terrific now.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21494040
> 
> 
> Okay, so I toed in the L/R speakers and reran ARC. Attached are the measurments which include setting my Paradigm SUB15 to FLAT. What do you all think about these results?



You still have the slight problem with your RF between 100 Hz and 400 Hz; but, it's not bad. I would say that your charts looks pretty good. So, sit back and listen to it for a week or two and see if your ears like what they are hearing. After all, your ears have the final say instead of the charts.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21493854
> 
> 
> I bought OPPO DBD-93 and I have a bunch of weird HDMI issues with my AVM 50V. Everything worked well for a month and today I decided to replace the old HDMI cable between them with the new one provided with OPPO (1.4a think one with ethernet and 3D compatible). The problem is that no matter what I do there is no picture from OPPO through AVM 50V with that cable where as direct OPPO -> TV works fine. Does Anthem have issue with latest 1.4a HDMI cables?
> 
> 
> Then I replaced it with the old cable and got the same effect, in 90% of cases picture from OPPO just disappears and no reboot/power down helps. In 10% of cases I get picture but after several switching off/on/change input it disappears (Anthem showing just no video/no audio in status) so it is rather unstable.
> 
> 
> The only way to make it work more or less stable is to connect AVM 50V with OPPO through HDMI2 (different video chip). Is it a well-known issue with Anthem 50V with OPPO (I believe it is Anthem as OPPO works fine through other equipment)? Is there a hope that Anthem will fix this issue? Is newer beta API or new 3D board will fix handshake issue with OPPO? Why did it suddenly start behaving like that? What kind of HDMI cables is compatible with AVM 50V?
> 
> 
> By the way, when connected through OPPO's HDMI1 I can see 240p mode at short moments after signal disappears which looks really strange to me. And in some cases instead of video signal format on the LCD screen I simply see "MAIN" instead of "2.1" or "5.1" for those sources where I am getting problems.



There is no such thing as an HDMI V1.4 cable. There are high speed cables and non high speed cables. The one included with the Oppo is high speed, which is what you want.


Since the problem just started happening when you changed cables, the first thing to do is to power down, get a flashlight and examine the plugs and pins of EVERY HDMI connection -- both ends of EACH cable -- for signs of pin damage. HDMI plugs and sockets are delicate.


Next check that each HDMI plug is fully inserted straight into the socket with nothing (including the weight of the cable) tugging it in any direction. Since HDMI is an end to end protocol be sure to check the cable to your display (both ends) since that's where the problem may be. If you've switched to longer cables as part of this, that too might be the problem. If you've added cable adapters or wall plates in the path that too can be the cause.


Try 1080i output from BOTH the Oppo and from the AVM 50v. If that works but 1080p does not, that too suggests a cable or connection problem.


Oppo has an AVM 50v in the lab and tests regularly against the AVM 50v. Anthem also has an Oppo BDP-93 in their lab. There are no general problems like you report between the Oppo BDP-93 and the Anthem AVM 50v. Any HDMI connection can have random glitches now and again, but the sort of easily repeatable failure you are reporting is something else.


You might have a hardware problem with the HDMI on the AVM 50v, but it is much more likely this is a cable/connection problem.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21494067
> 
> 
> Looks excellent. That sub is now Hall of Fame worthy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this should sound terrific now.
> 
> John



Yep, the sub gets my vote for the Sub Hall Of Fame.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, the sub gets my vote for the Sub Hall Of Fame.



I thought they would









John


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21494078
> 
> 
> There is no such thing as an HDMI V1.4 cable. There are high speed cables and non high speed cables. The one included with the Oppo is high speed, which is what you want.
> 
> 
> Since the problem just started happening when you changed cables, the first thing to do is to power down, get a flashlight and examine the plugs and pins of EVERY HDMI connection -- both ends of EACH cable -- for signs of pin damage. HDMI plugs and sockets are delicate.
> 
> 
> Next check that each HDMI plug is fully inserted straight into the socket with nothing (including the weight of the cable) tugging it in any direction. Since HDMI is an end to end protocol be sure to check the cable to your display (both ends) since that's where the problem may be. If you've switched to longer cables as part of this, that too might be the problem. If you've added cable adapters or wall plates in the path that too can be the cause.
> 
> 
> Try 1080i output from BOTH the Oppo and from the AVM 50v. If that works but 1080p does not, that too suggests a cable or connection problem.
> 
> 
> Oppo has an AVM 50v in the lab and tests regularly against the AVM 50v. Anthem also has an Oppo BDP-93 in their lab. There are no general problems like you report between the Oppo BDP-93 and the Anthem AVM 50v. Any HDMI connection can have random glitches now and again, but the sort of easily repeatable failure you are reporting is something else.
> 
> 
> You might have a hardware problem with the HDMI on the AVM 50v, but it is much more likely this is a cable/connection problem.
> 
> --Bob



It does not work even at 480i with OPPO cable (changing the resolution at OPPO does not change anything). BDP-93 -> 50V no picture. All the other equipment works fine with this cable even at 1080p. All cables are under 6 feet. Never had issues with the same cables and old OPPO 980H. Removing one side of the cable from 50V and connecting it to TV makes OPPO happy. Reconnecting it back to AVM does not help. Doing the same thing with the other side of the cable (changing HDMI2 to HDMI1 on OPPO) makes it OK again. This is what is happening:

1) OPPO HDMI1 -> 50V does not work

2) OPPO HDMI1 -> TV works fine always

3) OPPO HDMI2 -> TV works fine always

4) OPPO HDMI2 -> 50V works but in some cases there are problems


Mathematically speaking I listed all the possible combinations so I can conclude that there is something in OPPO HDMI2 -> 50V. And it worked before and not working now. Is there any way on how I can reset the Anthem? With Denon/Marantz there was some kind of a procedure on how to reset processor which fixed a lot of strange things. I find a lot of threads in the internet about Anthem d2/50 + OPPO HDMI1 issues where as HDMI2 is usually working fine (same video chip as in old OPPO which worked fine for me). It may be that video chip driving HDMI1 is somehow more sensitive to cable quality but I cannot understand how it can be. Maybe my old cables are not good enough and the one provided by OPPO is somehow defective (but it works fine with my other equipment).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It certainly wouldn't hurt to try a re-install of the AVM 50v firmware; that's the best way to reset things.


You can also do a reset and power cycle of the Oppo. While you are at it, erase Persistent Storage in the Oppo. If you want to go whole hog also download the Oppo firmware and re-install it via a USB stick.


ETA: Note you should do a Reset after re-installing the OPPO firmware.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21494437
> 
> 
> It does not work even at 480i with OPPO cable (changing the resolution at OPPO does not change anything). BDP-93 -> 50V no picture. All the other equipment works fine with this cable even at 1080p. All cables are under 6 feet. Never had issues with the same cables and old OPPO 980H. Removing one side of the cable from 50V and connecting it to TV makes OPPO happy. Reconnecting it back to AVM does not help. Doing the same thing with the other side of the cable (changing HDMI2 to HDMI1 on OPPO) makes it OK again. This is what is happening:
> 
> 1) OPPO HDMI1 -> 50V does not work
> 
> 2) OPPO HDMI1 -> TV works fine always
> 
> 3) OPPO HDMI2 -> TV works fine always
> 
> 4) OPPO HDMI2 -> 50V works but in some cases there are problems
> 
> 
> Mathematically speaking I listed all the possible combinations so I can conclude that there is something in OPPO HDMI2 -> 50V. And it worked before and not working now. Is there any way on how I can reset the Anthem? With Denon/Marantz there was some kind of a procedure on how to reset processor which fixed a lot of strange things. I find a lot of threads in the internet about Anthem d2/50 + OPPO HDMI1 issues where as HDMI2 is usually working fine (same video chip as in old OPPO which worked fine for me). It may be that video chip driving HDMI1 is somehow more sensitive to cable quality but I cannot understand how it can be. Maybe my old cables are not good enough and the one provided by OPPO is somehow defective (but it works fine with my other equipment).



Have you tried a different hdmi in connection port on the 50v?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> It does not work even at 480i with OPPO cable (changing the resolution at OPPO does not change anything). BDP-93 -> 50V no picture. All the other equipment works fine with this cable even at 1080p. All cables are under 6 feet. Never had issues with the same cables and old OPPO 980H. Removing one side of the cable from 50V and connecting it to TV makes OPPO happy. Reconnecting it back to AVM does not help. Doing the same thing with the other side of the cable (changing HDMI2 to HDMI1 on OPPO) makes it OK again. This is what is happening:
> 
> 1) OPPO HDMI1 -> 50V does not work
> 
> 2) OPPO HDMI1 -> TV works fine always
> 
> 3) OPPO HDMI2 -> TV works fine always
> 
> 4) OPPO HDMI2 -> 50V works but in some cases there are problems
> 
> 
> Mathematically speaking I listed all the possible combinations so I can conclude that there is something in OPPO HDMI2 -> 50V. And it worked before and not working now. Is there any way on how I can reset the Anthem? With Denon/Marantz there was some kind of a procedure on how to reset processor which fixed a lot of strange things. I find a lot of threads in the internet about Anthem d2/50 + OPPO HDMI1 issues where as HDMI2 is usually working fine (same video chip as in old OPPO which worked fine for me). It may be that video chip driving HDMI1 is somehow more sensitive to cable quality but I cannot understand how it can be. Maybe my old cables are not good enough and the one provided by OPPO is somehow defective (but it works fine with my other equipment).



Do you have another receiver to try? Just because it works directly to TV doesn't mean you don't have a bent pin.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21494652
> 
> 
> Do you have another receiver to try? Just because it works directly to TV doesn't mean you don't have a bent pin.



I have 8 HDMI ins on Anthem 50V and 8 HDMI cables, 4 of them are from Monoprice and advertised as high speed. All 8 HDMI ins on Anthem with all 8 cables behave the same. I spent another 5 hours trying all the possible configurations. Everything except from OPPO work fine, no HDMI handshake issues whatsoever (Rogers 8642HD, regular HTPC with NVidia video card). With OPPO even if I manage to get picture at 1080P through HDMI1, changing the resolution to 1080i makes it disappear and further consequent changes in resolution do not help. It is like Anthem is caching the error condition in HDMI handshake and it gets stuck.


The whole situation is a little bit more stable if I unplug my TV. But still even with only OPPO connected to Anthem with 3 feet high speed Monoprice cable I cannot make it stable. As soon as I switch them off and on, I lose the signal (instead of 1080p there is MAIN on the screen). I guess that with my current cable set I cannot make the combination of OPPO + Anthem work. More interesting is the fact that with cable from OPPO (which really looks like Monoprice one) I cannot make them to perform handshake at all. Based on this my hypothesis is that Monoprice cables are not good for OPPO HDMI1+Anthem combination (a little bit better with OPPO HDMI2 + Anthem) and I will have to buy at least two very good new cables (high speed shielded) to try them out. I wish OPPO provided us with some kind of a button to initiate HDMI handshake, it could help a lot in this situation.


But still, there are zero issues with HTPC/DVR -> Marantz -> TV on 1080p with any of my existing cables. For now I connected Anthem from OPPO HDMI2 that seems to be more stable and simple change of source back and forth can fix the issue if it arises. With OPPO HDMI1 even the cold reboot does not help but plugging out/in of the HDMI cables does.


Bob, what types of cables are you using when testing OPPO + Anthem?


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21494605
> 
> 
> Have you tried a different hdmi in connection port on the 50v?



All of them, same behavior. As a system software developer I can tell that it is either the issue with HDMI handshake algorithm that can be fixed in the future with the new firmware for OPPO and/or Anthem or HDMI1 on OPPO is very demanding and I need better cable for it (and possibly to a TV set) as a couple of cables do not with it at all (but work fine with HTPC).


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21494481
> 
> 
> It certainly wouldn't hurt to try a re-install of the AVM 50v firmware; that's the best way to reset things.
> 
> 
> You can also do a reset and power cycle of the Oppo. While you are at it, erase Persistent Storage in the Oppo. If you want to go whole hog also download the Oppo firmware and re-install it via a USB stick.
> 
> 
> ETA: Note you should do a Reset after re-installing the OPPO firmware.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob. First I will try to buy a pair of better cables (OPPO->Anthem->TV). Re-installing the Anthem firmware is problematic as I have 2.11 with my unit but there is only 2.10 available on the site. I sent an official request to Anthem to provide me with the test beta to test on my unit but I am not sure if I will get it and when. But I want to try better cables first although I don't understand how a 3 feet Monoprice high speed cable can be bad (when I was testing Anthem together with OPPO but with no TV, although Oppo's cable did not work even in this combination, without TV, but works well with other equipment). Funny thing, when I had OPPO connected to Anthem and TV disconnected, I was getting 1080p on the screen. Connecting the TV cable instantly changed 1080p to MAIN (and no video/audio), disconnecting the TV restored the link between OPPO and Anthem. It is like there was something wrong with the whole HDMI handshaking sequence between three of my components but I could not find a solution on how to fix it (re-sending the HDMI handshake request from OPPO would probably help but nothing I tried worked)


----------



## WildZero




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21483273
> 
> 
> Call Anthem tech support. The problem is likely on your Windows PC and not in the Anthem. You may need to uninstall and re-install the ARC application.
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob, I re-installed ARC and now it works! Bob for president!










A weird thing I have noted is that I sometimes get a strange crackling noise from my front right speaker when playing the ARC test tone.

The speaker is not damaged and is working fine.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/21495698
> 
> 
> Hello Bob, I re-installed ARC and now it works! Bob for president!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A weird thing I have noted is that I sometimes get a strange crackling noise from my front right speaker when playing the ARC test tone.
> 
> The speaker is not damaged and is working fine.



I got crackling noise from one of my front ARC speakers.


GUESS WHAT - *IT WAS DAMAGED* - I got it fixed - Now NO CRACKLING NOISE.


----------



## WildZero

I do not think it is the speaker. I tried various sweeps and test tones and this only happens with ARC. When listening to music or watching movies there is no crackling noise as well, even at high volumes. Even with ARC it does not happen all of the time, I would say 6/10 times there is this noise.










I think I will try another re-install.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/21495796
> 
> 
> I do not think it is the speaker. I tried various sweeps and test tones and this only happens with ARC. When listening to music or watching movies there is no crackling noise as well, even at high volumes. Even with ARC it does not happen all of the time, I would say 6/10 times there is this noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I will try another re-install.


*TRUST ME* - that was my exact experience.


I have big RIBBON Speakers and only ARC sent tones that got the

RIBBON to make the Cracking Noise.


STAND NEXT to the Speaker with the Noise - you will hear the noise

first hand.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/21495796
> 
> 
> I do not think it is the speaker. I tried various sweeps and test tones and this only happens with ARC. When listening to music or watching movies there is no crackling noise as well, even at high volumes. Even with ARC it does not happen all of the time, I would say 6/10 times there is this noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I will try another re-install.



You can see the 6 Ft tall speakers in this picture


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21494906
> 
> 
> The whole situation is a little bit more stable if I unplug my TV. But still even with only OPPO connected to Anthem with *3 feet* high speed Monoprice cable I cannot make it stable. As soon as I switch them off and on, I lose the signal (instead of 1080p there is MAIN on the screen). I guess that with my current cable set I cannot make the combination of OPPO + Anthem work. More interesting is the fact that with cable from OPPO (which really looks like Monoprice one) I cannot make them to perform handshake at all. Based on this my hypothesis is that Monoprice cables are not good for OPPO HDMI1+Anthem combination (a little bit better with OPPO HDMI2 + Anthem) and I will have to buy at least two very good new cables (high speed shielded) to try them out. I wish OPPO provided us with some kind of a button to initiate HDMI handshake, it could help a lot in this situation.



Maybe Bob has already mentioned it but I believe some people with other video processors (Lumagen) have had problems with short HDMI cables. Have you tried a 6 foot cable?


----------



## WildZero




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21495802
> 
> *TRUST ME* - that was my exact experience.
> 
> 
> I have big RIBBON Speakers and only ARC sent tones that got the
> 
> RIBBON to make the Cracking Noise.
> 
> 
> STAND NEXT to the Speaker with the Noise - you will hear the noise
> 
> first hand.



Thank for you help drhankz! If the speaker is damaged there should always be crackling noise when running

the ARC test tone shouldn't it? Was it the same with your speaker that the noise only came from time to time

when running the ARC signal? Just tried again several times and now there was no crackling at all! Even when very close

to the speaker (Focal Alto Utopia BE).


The problem seems to have occured a few times after the re-install but now is gone?! Maybe a loose/bad connection somewhere? I just moved and had to do a complete system set up.


Guess I will have my speaker checked out anyways.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/21495947
> 
> 
> Thank for you help drhankz! If the speaker is damaged there should always be crackling noise when running
> 
> the ARC test tone shouldn't it? Was it the same with your speaker that the noise only came from time to time
> 
> when running the ARC signal? Just tried again several times and now there was no crackling at all! Even when very close
> 
> to the speaker (Focal Alto Utopia BE).
> 
> 
> The problem seems to have occured a few times after the re-install but now is gone?! Maybe a loose/bad connection somewhere? I just moved and had to do a complete system set up.
> 
> 
> Guess I will have my speaker checked out anyways.


*That is a WRONG Assumption.* I never heard anything WRONG

from my Speaker - Right Side - until ARC. They use tones

that you don't see in normal playing. It is the *BEST Early

Warning Test Tones* around.


Stand next to speaker and hear. Reloading ARC will do nothing.


----------



## WildZero

OK! I just do not understand why the crackling is gone now with ARC










I will follow your advice and get my speaker checked out.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/21495989
> 
> 
> OK! I just do not understand why the crackling is gone now with ARC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will follow your advice and get my speaker checked out.



Loose connections can do the same thing


----------



## hoehne

I have a D2V with firmware 2.10.


I am using a Pronto 9600 remore with the RFX9600 serial extender to control the D2V to get direct access to several commands and this has been working great for over a year until yesterday.


I am using Windows 7 64 bit home premium with a Keyspan usb-serial adapter.


Yesterday I was using Livevideosettingseditor which is in the utilities folder of the latest ARC download to create some custom resolutions. When I was done messing with this and plugged my serial cable back into the serial extender, I no longer can control the D2V with serial commands.


Using the same cable and connecting back to a computer I can update the firmware, backup settings, and launch the Livevideosettingseditor and communicate with the D2V, but not with the extender.


I also control my pioneer tv from the extender and that is working. I switched the D2V to that serial port and reconfigured the software to use that port which I know works to control the D2V and still nothing.


The regular remote works fine. Is there some way the serial port on the D2V is damaged from connecting/disconnecting cables? If it was damaged, I would assume no other device or software would work either.


Any suggestions of help on this to ensure I didn't change something in the D2V to disable the serial port remote control feature? Is there an easy way to user hyperterminal or something similar to test communication and a list of command syntax to do so.


I have reloaded the firmware, but to no avail. Are there other tools available to do testing and troubleshooting? I see reference to the SETUP EDITOR which is different than Livevideosettingseditor, but cannot find and do not have access to the secure page on Anthem to look. You can PM me the logon information if I can get a new firmware or software there to try out.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/21496396
> 
> 
> I have a D2V with firmware 2.10.
> 
> 
> I am using a Pronto 9600 remore with the RFX9600 serial extender to control the D2V to get direct access to several commands and this has been working great for over a year until yesterday.
> 
> 
> I am using Windows 7 64 bit home premium with a Keyspan usb-serial adapter.
> 
> 
> Yesterday I was using Livevideosettingseditor which is in the utilities folder of the latest ARC download to create some custom resolutions. When I was done messing with this and plugged my serial cable back into the serial extender, I no longer can control the D2V with serial commands.
> 
> 
> Using the same cable and connecting back to a computer I can update the firmware, backup settings, and launch the Livevideosettingseditor and communicate with the D2V, but not with the extender.
> 
> 
> I also control my pioneer tv from the extender and that is working. I switched the D2V to that serial port and reconfigured the software to use that port which I know works to control the D2V and still nothing.
> 
> 
> The regular remote works fine. Is there some way the serial port on the D2V is damaged from connecting/disconnecting cables? If it was damaged, I would assume no other device or software would work either.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions of help on this to ensure I didn't change something in the D2V to disable the serial port remote control feature? Is there an easy way to user hyperterminal or something similar to test communication and a list of command syntax to do so.
> 
> 
> I have reloaded the firmware, but to no avail. Are there other tools available to do testing and troubleshooting? I see reference to the SETUP EDITOR which is different than Livevideosettingseditor, but cannot find and do not have access to the secure page on Anthem to look. You can PM me the logon information if I can get a new firmware or software there to try out.



Check the RS-232 Settings portion of Setup in the D2v. Odds are you reconfigured something in there when doing a firmware install or using the Anthem utilities. The usual culprit is the RS-232 TX Status setting which is OFF by default but needs to be ON for some remote control systems to work properly. The Flow Control setting may be the other culprit. See Section 3.11 in the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WildZero* /forum/post/21495989
> 
> 
> OK! I just do not understand why the crackling is gone now with ARC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will follow your advice and get my speaker checked out.



If the crackling was happening in either speaker A or B at the point when ARC was transitioning from sending sweep tones to speaker A and starting to send them to speaker B then you likely have nothing to worry about. Sometimes ARC doesn't completely mute things properly during the transition between speakers.


If on the other hand the crackling was happening DURING the sweep tones for a given speaker then the odds are excellent either the speaker has an internal problem or it has loose speaker wire connections.


It is not unusual that ARC would expose a speaker problem you don't hear during normal playback. Typically ARC sends deeper bass and higher treble to your speakers then they would normally see in real use. Deep bass can cause vibrations that show up loose connections. High treble can show broken tweeters. And since ARC sweeps through all frequencies you will also hear problems that only show up at certain mechanical resonance frequencies.


First check that all your speaker connections are tight -- Anthem to amp to speaker.


If that doesn't fix it, swap the outputs at the back of the Anthem between the problem speaker and any other speaker. If the crackling stays in the problem speaker, then the odds are excellent that speaker needs service.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21494943
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob. First I will try to buy a pair of better cables (OPPO->Anthem->TV). Re-installing the Anthem firmware is problematic as I have 2.11 with my unit but there is only 2.10 available on the site. I sent an official request to Anthem to provide me with the test beta to test on my unit but I am not sure if I will get it and when. But I want to try better cables first although I don't understand how a 3 feet Monoprice high speed cable can be bad (when I was testing Anthem together with OPPO but with no TV, although Oppo's cable did not work even in this combination, without TV, but works well with other equipment). Funny thing, when I had OPPO connected to Anthem and TV disconnected, I was getting 1080p on the screen. Connecting the TV cable instantly changed 1080p to MAIN (and no video/audio), disconnecting the TV restored the link between OPPO and Anthem. It is like there was something wrong with the whole HDMI handshaking sequence between three of my components but I could not find a solution on how to fix it (re-sending the HDMI handshake request from OPPO would probably help but nothing I tried worked)



Let Anthem know you need V2.11. Anthem tech support can get you access to their password protected download page. The download which includes the V2.12x "test" firmware also includes V2.11 for use with units that already have that installed.


I use the Oppo provided cables all the time. I also use cables from Blue Jeans Cable (an AVS Forum sponsor). Of course any cable can have a defect. Have you checked all plugs and sockets for signs of pin damage yet?


The HDMI handshake involves ALL connected devices. If any connection is marginal it can screw up HDMI even over paths not using that connection.


By the way, you could also give Oppo a call and they too can give you assistance diagnosing this.


ETA: Another test to try is to do delayed power up in reverse order of the HDMI connections. That is, power up the display. Wait. Then power up the Anthem. Wait. Then power up the Oppo.


If that works then that suggests the problem is that your display is not handling its HDMI properly during power up. This is not uncommon. Once the display gets confused, it tends to remain confused.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21493292
> 
> 
> The Mode button has different functionality for "press" and for "press and hold" and for "press and hold then release then press again".
> 
> 
> As such, you probably need Harmony to replace your "learned" command with one that's been tweaked by their command editors. Frankly, at this point I'm surprised it isn't already correct in their database for the D2v as they've had a correct version of the command for several years now.
> 
> --Bob



You are right. Their template was wrong.

But I managed to solve the problem. The regular way to learn IR commands is called Analyzed (whatever that means?!). But in Advanced mode it can learn IR commands in Raw mode (?!). That's the one that worked.

Thanks for bringing my attention on the complexity of that command.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21496862
> 
> 
> Let Anthem know you need V2.11. Anthem tech support can get you access to their password protected download page. The download which includes the V2.12x "test" firmware also includes V2.11 for use with units that already have that installed.
> 
> 
> I use the Oppo provided cables all the time. I also use cables from Blue Jeans Cable (an AVS Forum sponsor). Of course any cable can have a defect. Have you checked all plugs and sockets for signs of pin damage yet?
> 
> 
> The HDMI handshake involves ALL connected devices. If any connection is marginal it can screw up HDMI even over paths not using that connection.
> 
> 
> By the way, you could also give Oppo a call and they too can give you assistance diagnosing this.
> 
> 
> ETA: Another test to try is to do delayed power up in reverse order of the HDMI connections. That is, power up the display. Wait. Then power up the Anthem. Wait. Then power up the Oppo.
> 
> 
> If that works then that suggests the problem is that your display is not handling its HDMI properly during power up. This is not uncommon. Once the display gets confused, it tends to remain confused.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob. I actually grabbed a pair of new HDMI cables exceeding the specifications 4X times. Result is the same. I now more inclined to think that this is an issue with HDCP handshake between my TV and Anthem (but not TV and OPPO as they both work fine). I have rather old TV Toshiba 52XV540U and I guess there is some bug somewhere in HDCP handshake between my component. And I am sure it is HDCP protection as I see all the signs like black screen, no sound, blinking screen, white noise etc.


BUT THE ISSUE IS GONE after I connected my TV to hdmi2 out and all my other equipment to HDMI5-HDMI8 ins (so all from the bottom HDMI row). Right now HDMI2 from OPPO goes to HDMI7 in Anthem and HDMI2 from Anthem to TV. This combination works fine. I know that Anthem uses different boards for HDMI1-HDMI4 ins and HDMI1 out, so my OPPO -> Anthem -> TV combination does not work reliably through this top HDMI set. Fortunately I am getting those swapped out with new 3D version by my dealer and maybe it will solve the issue with the top row (not that I really need it). For now I am staying at bottom HDMI row.


Bob, are there different chips used for top and bottom HDMI rows? I am just trying to understand why do I have so different behavior with HDMI1:HDMI4+HDMI1 and HDMI5:HDMI8+HDMI2. It is rock solid right now, no issue with HDCP and handshake is much faster on border of unnoticeable (with HDMI1:HDMI4+HDMI1 I could have several seconds of blinking and switching on and off)


----------



## SimonNo10

Just thought I would share my impressions on firmware 2.12x. Almost everything is perfect except for one thing, the switching of sources. My setup is pretty basic with just an Oppo BDP-95 connected and Epson EH TW-3200 projector (1080p). I have 2 settings, one for Blu-Ray and one for USB (.avi's on a stick) and when I switch to either for the first time the menu for the Oppo is average where the words look low rez (jaggered). When I switch back the issue is resolved and going back and forth from then on is fine no problem. It's the first switching that is (for me) that I get the issue. It's not a deal breaker but can be annoying if you want things just to be right







.


I cannot test to see if the DTS-HD MA issue is fixed, but some others here have confirmed it. Not sure if it's just me but I've listened to 2 Blu-Rays with DTS-HD MA and to me they sounded louder than before with a bigger sound stage and the bass seems more potent. Main volume level was the same so I'm just confirming that the DTS-HD MA issue has definitely been resolved and I'm just imagining this difference I'm hearing







.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21497183
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob. I actually grabbed a pair of new HDMI cables exceeding the specifications 4X times. Result is the same. I now more inclined to think that this is an issue with HDCP handshake between my TV and Anthem (but not TV and OPPO as they both work fine). I have rather old TV Toshiba 52XV540U and I guess there is some bug somewhere in HDCP handshake between my component. And I am sure it is HDCP protection as I see all the signs like black screen, no sound, blinking screen, white noise etc.
> 
> 
> BUT THE ISSUE IS GONE after I connected my TV to hdmi2 out and all my other equipment to HDMI5-HDMI8 ins (so all from the bottom HDMI row). Right now HDMI2 from OPPO goes to HDMI7 in Anthem and HDMI2 from Anthem to TV. This combination works fine. I know that Anthem uses different boards for HDMI1-HDMI4 ins and HDMI1 out, so my OPPO -> Anthem -> TV combination does not work reliably through this top HDMI set. Fortunately I am getting those swapped out with new 3D version by my dealer and maybe it will solve the issue with the top row (not that I really need it). For now I am staying at bottom HDMI row.
> 
> 
> Bob, are there different chips used for top and bottom HDMI rows? I am just trying to understand why do I have so different behavior with HDMI1:HDMI4+HDMI1 and HDMI5:HDMI8+HDMI2. It is rock solid right now, no issue with HDCP and handshake is much faster on border of unnoticeable (with HDMI1:HDMI4+HDMI1 I could have several seconds of blinking and switching on and off)



The upper row of HDMI inputs in the Anthem is handled by the same type of hardware, but on a separate daughter board. It is possible that board has a problem.


The HDMI 1 output of the Oppo has a more complicated HDMI handshake since it has to include the player's video processor in the protocol.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/21497182
> 
> 
> You are right. Their template was wrong.
> 
> But I managed to solve the problem. The regular way to learn IR commands is called Analyzed (whatever that means?!). But in Advanced mode it can learn IR commands in Raw mode (?!). That's the one that worked.
> 
> Thanks for bringing my attention on the complexity of that command.



Analyzed means they attempt to match the raw input against their database and replace the raw input with a code already in their database if they think they have a match.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21497183
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Bob, are there different chips used for top and bottom HDMI rows? I am just trying to understand why do I have so different behavior with HDMI1:HDMI4+HDMI1 and HDMI5:HDMI8+HDMI2. It is rock solid right now, no issue with HDCP and handshake is much faster on border of unnoticeable (with HDMI1:HDMI4+HDMI1 I could have several seconds of blinking and switching on and off)



I am not Bob, but I think that the D2v uses a daughter board for the top row of hdmi connections and this is what get replaced with the 3D upgrade.

It could be that the internal connections to daughter got loosed inside if you have recently moved your D2v.


Edit: well the real Bob was faster that me.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21497900
> 
> 
> The upper row of HDMI inputs in the Anthem is handled by the same type of hardware, but on a separate daughter board. It is possible that board has a problem.
> 
> 
> The HDMI 1 output of the Oppo has a more complicated HDMI handshake since it has to include the player's video processor in the protocol.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you! I will just wait then for those upper daughter boards to be swapped with the new 3D ones, no reason to hurry as with low HDMI row everything works perfectly now. The most amazing thing is that everything else works fine with those daughter boards except from OPPO BDP-93.


I have one more theoretical question about Anthem AVM 50V. When I am feeding the 192 KHz music, is it down-converteing to 96 KHz first to be processed by DSP/ARC or DSP/ARC work in 192 KHz domain, or Anthem does not apply some corrections to 192 Khz input? I am asking because when looking at input and output format I can see 192 KHz for input but 96 KHz (or sometimes even 48 KHz) for output on LCD screen so I am wondering why not 192 KHz for output.


----------



## PlatinumSV

Quick question. If arc sets the x-over roll-off for my left, center and right to 60hz, is it ok to change them back to 80 without screwing up the eq that was done by arc. 60hz is just to low and at high volumes depending on the listening material the mud-woofers are bottoming out.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21498276
> 
> 
> Quick question. If arc sets the x-over roll-off for my left, center and right to 60hz, is it ok to change them back to 80 without screwing up the eq that was done by arc. 60hz is just to low and at high volumes depending on the listening material the mud-woofers are bottoming out.



You can do it in your Targets View. After you make the change, then Calculate, Save ARC File, and then upload the ARC File.


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You can do it in your Targets View. After you make the change, then Calculate, Save ARC File, and then upload the ARC File.



Thank you. Do you access that before or after you run arc.


Joe


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. Do you access that before or after you run arc.
> 
> 
> Joe



The file you saved after running ARC is what you use to change the targets.

John


----------



## hoehne




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21496781
> 
> 
> Check the RS-232 Settings portion of Setup in the D2v. Odds are you reconfigured something in there when doing a firmware install or using the Anthem utilities. The usual culprit is the RS-232 TX Status setting which is OFF by default but needs to be ON for some remote control systems to work properly. The Flow Control setting may be the other culprit. See Section 3.11 in the Manual.
> 
> --Bob




Bob, thanks for your response. I did reset the values per your suggestion and it didn't work, so I kept digging thinking I was close. I did notice in a response earlier about setting the serial port to 8-N-2 so I decided to double check the setting in my remote where they were 8-N-1. I corrected that and all is well and back to normal. I have no idea why it worked before and then stopped working as I never remember changing those settings, but maybe some updates in the D2V made it realize it didn't want to communicate on 8-N-1 anymore.


Are there any other pieces of software that can be used to configure the D2V? It seems like the Video settings can be setup, but you still have to do many of the configurations to assign Video Output via the D2V on screen menu. Just curious if this could be done easier by PC or not.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21495810
> 
> 
> You can see the 6 Ft tall speakers in this picture



Doc ...are these Carvers original ribbons ("The Amazing Loudspeaker")? How far from the back and side walls do you have them placed? I know they love lots of room to breath...


----------



## hoehne

New day, new problem.


I am using Livevideosettingseditor to upload a custom resolution to my D2V running 2.10.


The resolution works great until i turn the D2V off and on. The D2V defaults to 720/60P and the custom resolution is no longer in the D2V.


It seems like it is not retaining uploaded settings and now I am wondering if other settings like are are also not being retained.


Please help figure out how to make the settings be retained and verify ARC is also being retained


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/21504427
> 
> 
> New day, new problem.
> 
> 
> I am using Livevideosettingseditor to upload a custom resolution to my D2V running 2.10.
> 
> 
> The resolution works great until i turn the D2V off and on. The D2V defaults to 720/60P and the custom resolution is no longer in the D2V.
> 
> 
> It seems like it is not retaining uploaded settings and now I am wondering if other settings like are are also not being retained.
> 
> 
> Please help figure out how to make the settings be retained and verify ARC is also being retained



I am not an expert on the LVSE, but after you did the upload you may want to go into the D2v's setup and save the user settings/installer settings.

Don't know if it will work, but a pretty simple procedure.


I think your speaker levels would all be '0' if ARC somehow got erased during the LVSE upload.

You can always upload your ARC again to make sure if you are worried.


It would probably be a good idea to check your other settings in the D2v setup menu if you are worried.


Tom


----------



## rovingtravler

Also isn't there something about having to be on at least firmware 2.11 or 2.12 for LVSE to work?


----------



## AVfile

^^ That is correct, you need 2.12 and CustomResolutionManager. LVSE is no longer supported unless you have a very old firmware.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21497726
> 
> 
> Just thought I would share my impressions on firmware 2.12x. Almost everything is perfect except for one thing, the switching of sources. My setup is pretty basic with just an Oppo BDP-95 connected and Epson EH TW-3200 projector (1080p). I have 2 settings, one for Blu-Ray and one for USB (.avi's on a stick) and when I switch to either for the first time the menu for the Oppo is average where the words look low rez (jaggered). When I switch back the issue is resolved and going back and forth from then on is fine no problem. It's the first switching that is (for me) that I get the issue. It's not a deal breaker but can be annoying if you want things just to be right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Since I've been playing with Custom resolution, I've been doing lots of switching with 2.12 firmware. There are definitely glitches but I often had switching glitches (blank screens or colored screens) with my factory installed 2.10 firmware. I find that if I avoid interlaced modes (1080i) and leave *nothing* to fate (AUTO) the switching is much more reliable.



> Quote:
> I cannot test to see if the DTS-HD MA issue is fixed, but some others here have confirmed it. Not sure if it's just me but I've listened to 2 Blu-Rays with DTS-HD MA and to me they sounded louder than before with a bigger sound stage and the bass seems more potent. Main volume level was the same so I'm just confirming that the DTS-HD MA issue has definitely been resolved and I'm just imagining this difference I'm hearing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



The soundstage should be broader than before. Depending on your main speakers you may get more bass now too.


If you are still applying front speaker volume trims as was recommended when the issue was identified here, then you are now hearing the front L/R too loud compared to the center speaker.


If you are NOT applying front speaker volume trims, which (I think) should be the default after firmware update process, then you are now hearing the fronts at the correct level. Please check and ... Enjoy!


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21496821
> 
> 
> First check that all your speaker connections are tight -- Anthem to amp to speaker.



Also inspect the entire cable for damage. I once had a cable partially hidden by a cover plate and accidentally drove a screw through it. It still played sound but slowly killed the amp!


If your wires are in-wall the same could happen... or they could have been chewed by mice this time of year. In that case get an ohm-meter and measure the end-to-end resistance of each leg (should be very close to 0 ohms).


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> If you are NOT applying front speaker volume trims, which (I think) should be the default after firmware update process, then you are now hearing the fronts at the correct level. Please check and ... Enjoy!



Yes it was the first thing I checked. All trims were back to "0" after the firmware update and loading User Settings.


Thanks for the reply.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21496862
> 
> 
> Let Anthem know you need V2.11. Anthem tech support can get you access to their password protected download page. The download which includes the V2.12x "test" firmware also includes V2.11 for use with units that already have that installed.
> 
> --Bob



OK, I finally got info from Anthem. I updated my firmware to ver. 2.11x and everything works fine now. All the HDMI inputs, outputs, and HDCP handshake is much faster. Setup menu is also much faster now. So I am finally happy. Thank you all for your help.


----------



## hoehne




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21506584
> 
> 
> ^^ That is correct, you need 2.12 and CustomResolutionManager. LVSE is no longer supported unless you have a very old firmware.



My firmware is 2.10 and LVSE is part of the ARC 3.0.2 download from Anthem. I assume these are all compatible.


I may try to use CRM with firmware 2.12p or higher according to the readme. What is the easy math to determine a 1080P/48Hz output from the Anthem in CRM? In LVSE is provided an easy way to choose this output and changed the settings accordingly.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> My firmware is 2.10 and LVSE is part of the ARC 3.0.2 download from Anthem. I assume these are all compatible.
> 
> 
> I may try to use CRM with firmware 2.12p or higher according to the readme. What is the easy math to determine a 1080P/48Hz output from the Anthem in CRM? In LVSE is provided an easy way to choose this output and changed the settings accordingly.



I know they bundled the software that way but sadly it doesn't work. Anthem also needs to update the user manuals to remove reference to LVSE.


Sorry I can't help you with the math. I don't know what timings your display needs. I experimented with Powerstrip on my laptop driving my PJ directly to come up with my own timings. Once known I input them to CRM. It was a long battle and wait but we've come a long way and it's finally working.


----------



## SimonNo10

Well my D2v's display has been replaced so should get it back tomorrow. Now to wait for my projector to get repaired. Hopefully have it up and working by this weekend. Fingers crossed.


----------



## SimonNo10

**Update**


Received the unit back today and hooked it up (no projector as yet will be tomorrow), and now I don't get any audio using HDMI input 1 or 2 with Oppo BDP-95 hooked up to it only. Test tones work in setup to verify correct speaker connections and inputs (XLR). I have reinstalled firmware 2.12x and also redid latest firmware on Oppo. Suffice to say the unit has come back to me with a new fault.


I swear I'm at my end with putting up with these issues with the D2v. First 2 units had faulty video boards and then my 3rd unit developed a display fault and now this. The display is perfect now and working fine just no HDMI audio between Oppo and Anthem. I tested a different HDMI cable just to rule it out and rechecked all connections (pretty basic setup here) all fine.


I disconnected the Oppo and hooked it up to my Sony LCD (1080p) Tv and all settings are perfect. Also strange is if I boot up the Oppo when connected to the D2v it doesn't go past the Oppo logo on the display (on the Oppo unit itself) and I have set it up so the display turns off when in use. So I tested it by just turning the Oppo on by itself and it works no problem but as soon as I turn the D2v first then the Oppo the player wont boot properly.


Not sure now what to do:


1. Get it sent off for repair once again


2. Get a full refund and go something else.


My holidays finish tomorrow (Friday) and back to work Monday so can't be home for Anthem pickup if I send it back to repairer which will have to be next week sometime. Repair guy didn't touch anything else just the main display which is connected by one cable apparently. No idea why now the HDMI is failing to work. I checked the box and no dents or damage during transit and was packed well.

**Update 2**


Something I've just noticed tonight. When the D2v is turned off I can clearly see a faint horizontal line of broken text still visible (not normal) and red horizontal lines( which may be normal). Boxing up the unit again and off it goes back to the repairer, which is crap as I'm getting back my projector tomorrow after a week in repair.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21515003
> 
> **Update**
> 
> 
> Received the unit back today and hooked it up (no projector as yet will be tomorrow), and now I don't get any audio using HDMI input 1 or 2 with Oppo BDP-95 hooked up to it only. Test tones work in setup to verify correct speaker connections and inputs (XLR). I have reinstalled firmware 2.12x and also redid latest firmware on Oppo. Suffice to say the unit has come back to me with a new fault.
> 
> 
> I swear I'm at my end with putting up with these issues with the D2v. First 2 units had faulty video boards and then my 3rd unit developed a display fault and now this. The display is perfect now and working fine just no HDMI audio between Oppo and Anthem. I tested a different HDMI cable just to rule it out and rechecked all connections (pretty basic setup here) all fine.
> 
> 
> I disconnected the Oppo and hooked it up to my Sony LCD (1080p) Tv and all settings are perfect. Also strange is if I boot up the Oppo when connected to the D2v it doesn't go past the Oppo logo on the display (on the Oppo unit itself) and I have set it up so the display turns off when in use. So I tested it by just turning the Oppo on by itself and it works no problem but as soon as I turn the D2v first then the Oppo the player wont boot properly.
> 
> 
> Not sure now what to do:
> 
> 
> 1. Get it sent off for repair once again
> 
> 
> 2. Get a full refund and go something else.
> 
> 
> My holidays finish tomorrow (Friday) and back to work Monday so can't be home for Anthem pickup if I send it back to repairer which will have to be next week sometime. Repair guy didn't touch anything else just the main display which is connected by one cable apparently. No idea why now the HDMI is failing to work. I checked the box and no dents or damage during transit and was packed well.
> 
> **Update 2**
> 
> 
> Something I've just noticed tonight. When the D2v is turned off I can clearly see a faint horizontal line of broken text still visible (not normal) and red horizontal lines( which may be normal). Boxing up the unit again and off it goes back to the repairer, which is crap as I'm getting back my projector tomorrow after a week in repair.



Is Anthem the repairer ?


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21515003
> 
> **Update**
> 
> 
> Received the unit back today and hooked it up (no projector as yet will be tomorrow), and now I don't get any audio using HDMI input 1 or 2 with Oppo BDP-95 hooked up to it only. Test tones work in setup to verify correct speaker connections and inputs (XLR). I have reinstalled firmware 2.12x and also redid latest firmware on Oppo. Suffice to say the unit has come back to me with a new fault.
> 
> 
> I swear I'm at my end with putting up with these issues with the D2v. First 2 units had faulty video boards and then my 3rd unit developed a display fault and now this. The display is perfect now and working fine just no HDMI audio between Oppo and Anthem. I tested a different HDMI cable just to rule it out and rechecked all connections (pretty basic setup here) all fine.
> 
> 
> I disconnected the Oppo and hooked it up to my Sony LCD (1080p) Tv and all settings are perfect. Also strange is if I boot up the Oppo when connected to the D2v it doesn't go past the Oppo logo on the display (on the Oppo unit itself) and I have set it up so the display turns off when in use. So I tested it by just turning the Oppo on by itself and it works no problem but as soon as I turn the D2v first then the Oppo the player wont boot properly.
> 
> 
> Not sure now what to do:
> 
> 
> 1. Get it sent off for repair once again
> 
> 
> 2. Get a full refund and go something else.
> 
> 
> My holidays finish tomorrow (Friday) and back to work Monday so can't be home for Anthem pickup if I send it back to repairer which will have to be next week sometime. Repair guy didn't touch anything else just the main display which is connected by one cable apparently. No idea why now the HDMI is failing to work. I checked the box and no dents or damage during transit and was packed well.
> 
> **Update 2**
> 
> 
> Something I've just noticed tonight. When the D2v is turned off I can clearly see a faint horizontal line of broken text still visible (not normal) and red horizontal lines( which may be normal). Boxing up the unit again and off it goes back to the repairer, which is crap as I'm getting back my projector tomorrow after a week in repair.



Does it work if OPPO is hooked up to different HDMI inputs (say HDMI5-HDMI8)?


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21496781
> 
> 
> Check the RS-232 Settings portion of Setup in the D2v. Odds are you reconfigured something in there when doing a firmware install or using the Anthem utilities. The usual culprit is the RS-232 TX Status setting which is OFF by default but needs to be ON for some remote control systems to work properly. The Flow Control setting may be the other culprit. See Section 3.11 in the Manual.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob, Does Arc do the speaker distances, or do you do that manually. I just ran arc and prior to running it I set everything to 0. After the upload distances are still at 0. Also it it possible that the Sub is at -7.5 while all others are at +6-7 etc. I was pretty close to 75db across the board before with my SPL meter and had way different volume levels.


Thanks

Joe


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21517135
> 
> 
> Hi Bob, Does Arc do the speaker distances, or do you do that manually. I just ran arc and prior to running it I set everything to 0. After the upload distances are still at 0. Also it it possible that the Sub is at -7.5 while all others are at +6-7 etc. I was pretty close to 75db across the board before with my SPL meter and had way different volume levels.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Joe



You have to set the distances manually. ARC does not do this. ARC uses a much wider range to measure the speaker trims. Your sub is quite a bot too loud with a 14db difference.


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21517206
> 
> 
> You have to set the distances manually. ARC does not do this. ARC uses a much wider range to measure the speaker trims. Your sub is quite a bot too loud with a 14db difference.



Thank you, should those distances be set before or after (Or does it not matter). One other thing is that in my Target Customization menu, I have all set to 80hz and the sub at 120hz, I then recalculate and upload, however all the 80hz settings take for my L,C,R and surrounds, but for the sub in the D2 it still set at 80hz , not 120hz. I've tried it 3 times and get the same outcome.


Joe


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21517305
> 
> 
> Thank you, should those distances be set before or after (Or does it not matter). One other thing is that in my Target Customization menu, I have all set to 80hz and the sub at 120hz, I then recalculate and upload, however all the 80hz settings take for my L,C,R and surrounds, but for the sub in the D2 it still set at 80hz , not 120hz. I've tried it 3 times and get the same outcome.
> 
> 
> Joe



Clarify what you are stating here. Are you changing the cutoffs in the target page after running ARC ? If so why ? If you are changing them then you are defeating what ARC is doing.

AND


The ARC target cutoffs are not the same as the crossover settings

_From the target setup page_


Response cutoffs are not crossover frequencies although the behavior and purpose is similar. Response cutoffs are part of equalization, but not necessarily bass redirection, and are meant to not stress speakers at frequency extremes. *Crossover frequencies are uploaded to the unit's bass manager during the upload procedure and are not necessarily the same as the response cutoff selected here.*


Speakers marked as full range will have no bass redirection by the unit's bass manager. If there is no subwoofer selected (i.e.: Subwoofer cutoff is set to No Speaker') then the fronts are forced to be full range. If you are planning on customizing any of these settings the auto detected settings are an excellent starting place.


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21517365
> 
> 
> Clarify what you are stating here. Are you changing the cutoffs in the target page after running ARC ? If so why ? If you are changing them then you are defeating what ARC is doing.
> 
> AND
> 
> 
> The ARC target cutoffs are not the same as the crossover settings
> 
> _From the target setup page_
> 
> 
> Response cutoffs are not crossover frequencies although the behavior and purpose is similar. Response cutoffs are part of equalization, but not necessarily bass redirection, and are meant to not stress speakers at frequency extremes. *Crossover frequencies are uploaded to the unit's bass manager during the upload procedure and are not necessarily the same as the response cutoff selected here.*
> 
> 
> Speakers marked as full range will have no bass redirection by the unit's bass manager. If there is no subwoofer selected (i.e.: Subwoofer cutoff is set to No Speaker') then the fronts are forced to be full range. If you are planning on customizing any of these settings the auto detected settings are an excellent starting place.




I was changing the response cutoffs because at 60hz my LCR's where clapping at louder volumes and I was told to change it in the Target menu and recalculate as apposed to due it on the anthem speaker menu.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Is Anthem the repairer ?



No a local service repair center for Anthem gear (Australia) here:

http://www.audioactive.net.au/ 



> Quote:
> Does it work if OPPO is hooked up to different HDMI inputs (say HDMI5-HDMI8)?



I tried HDMI audio inputs 1,2 & 8 and get nothing. Once this was tested with negative results I gave up. If it doesn't work on one then as far as I'm concerned it's a faulty unit, as it worked before using input 1 and projector was plugged into HDMI output 1. Don't have the projector yet arrives today...I hope. But the D2v is getting boxed up so wont get to test the video output.


I'm over being a tester.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21517409
> 
> 
> I was changing the response cutoffs because at 60hz my LCR's where clapping at louder volumes and I was told to change it in the Target menu and recalculate as apposed to due it on the anthem speaker menu.



It doesn't matter if you set the distances before or after and ARC measure. I never recommend changing the crossover values that ARC sets but what you are doing is correct. For all speakers except the sub the cutoff and crossover can be thought of as the same. Setting the cutoff for the sub if the frequency at which ARC stops applying correction. The crossover will be lower than that. I would say that you are getting what you expect with the crossover for the sub at 80hz and cutoff at 120. Did ARC set your sub cutoff at 120 before you changed it? Is it capable of going that high?


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21517365
> 
> 
> Clarify what you are stating here. Are you changing the cutoffs in the target page after running ARC ? If so why ? If you are changing them then you are defeating what ARC is doing.



You are defeating what ARC is doing if you are changing the crossover after you uploaded the ARC correction. If you change cutoffs in ARC application, recalculate and upload to Anthem, then you are not defeating anything as ARC will be calculating corrections for cutoffs you specified in ARC application (even if they are different from what ARC identified automatically). There is always a question if you really need to do that but the beauty of ARC is that you can always change parameters, upload it to Anthem and evaluate the difference.


For all speakers except from sub-woofer crossover will be set to a cutoff frequency defined by ARC. For sub-woofer cutoff and crossover are different values in most cases. If crossover for some speaker is set at 80 Hz, it does not mean that no information will be output below 80 Hz from that speaker (above 80 Hz if it is sub-woofer).


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You are defeating what ARC is doing if you are changing the crossover after you uploaded the ARC correction. If you change cutoffs in ARC application, recalculate and upload to Anthem, then you are not defeating anything as ARC will be calculating corrections for cutoffs you specified in ARC application (even if they are different from what ARC identified automatically). There is always a question if you really need to do that but the beauty of ARC is that you can always change parameters, upload it to Anthem and evaluate the difference.
> 
> 
> For all speakers except from sub-woofer crossover will be set to a cutoff frequency defined by ARC. For sub-woofer cutoff and crossover are different values in most cases. If crossover for some speaker is set at 80 Hz, it does not mean that no information will be output below 80 Hz from that speaker (above 80 Hz if it is sub-woofer).



Thank you.


Joe


----------



## SimonNo10

Well the unit just got picked up and back to the repairer. I have spoken to the guy that fixed the display and he tested the unit fully including the HDMI audio inputs and HDMI ouputs plus XLR/analog interconnects.


No idea now as to why it arrived back to me not working. It's possible it was knocked about during transit as that's the only explanation now. Really doesn't explain the things I'm seeing on the display when the unit is in standby. As mentioned the box didn't show any signs of rough handling and I'm using all the original packing materials that came with the unit.


Oh well the courier couldn't promise same day delivery so it will most likely arrive on Monday. The wait begins again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21517305
> 
> 
> Thank you, should those distances be set before or after (Or does it not matter).
> 
> . . . .



You can set distances after setting up ARC without having to re-run ARC so long as you only have one subwoofer. ARC never hears more than one speaker playing at a time so the distance settings don't affect the ARC results. In particular, you can set subwoofer Phase (which is a function of distance) AFTER setting up ARC.


However, if you have more than one subwoofer you need to set subwoofer Phase for EACH sub PRIOR to running ARC since ARC will hear the combination of your subs playing simultaneously and their combined output is affected by their Phase settings. Since Phase is a function of distance that means you need to set the distances manually, manually get the sub volumes in the ballpark of the front speaker volumes (to make it easier to hear what you need to hear to set Phase), manually set Phase for each sub (one sub powered at a time), and THEN run ARC setup. ARC will refine your manually set volume trims, but it will not alter what you set for speaker distances or, of course, the Phase knob setting you make on each sub.

--Bob


----------



## moparfan

From a non-owner, what are the pluses and minuses of using room correction up to the 5k limit for the MRX series?


edit: sorry wrong thread.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21517984
> 
> 
> I tried HDMI audio inputs 1,2 & 8 and get nothing. Once this was tested with negative results I gave up. If it doesn't work on one then as far as I'm concerned it's a faulty unit, as it worked before using input 1 and projector was plugged into HDMI output 1. Don't have the projector yet arrives today...I hope. But the D2v is getting boxed up so wont get to test the video output.
> 
> 
> I'm over being a tester.



Did you only try Blu-ray audio? I hope this isn't a case of foolish software that thinks it needs HD video to produce HD audio. Sounds silly but I vaguely recall reading this in some user manual somewhere, possibly for a BD player. Lossy audio would still work in this case, so I hope you tried a DVD before exiling your unit.


It's been a while since I tried mine without a display, if ever.


I get the faint horizontal red lines on the front panel display in STANDBY. There are a few very faint blue specs of light (pixels?) near one corner of the display, like dust particles, barely visible.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Did you only try Blu-ray audio?



No the first thing I tried was a normal cd and then moved onto a Blu-ray. Even without connecting the D2v to a display via it's HDMI 1 output, I should still get audio from most media"s wether it's cd or Blu-Ray using HDMI into an audio input? I hope I didn't have to have a display hooked up in order to get audio from the CD/BD.



> Quote:
> I get the faint horizontal red lines on the front panel display in STANDBY. There are a few very faint blue specs of light (pixels?) near one corner of the display, like dust particles, barely visible.



Thanks for that. I see the red lines as well but the big issue other than the audio not working is that I can see right across the screen broken up thin text right in the middle. I can't make out what it says but was not there before.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21519626
> 
> 
> No the first thing I tried was a normal cd and then moved onto a Blu-ray. Even without connecting the D2v to a display via it's HDMI 1 output, I should still get audio from most media"s wether it's cd or Blu-Ray using HDMI into an audio input? I hope I didn't have to have a display hooked up in order to get audio from the CD/BD.



You should also try some other (not your oppo 95) hdmi device that you know is working correctly to rule out that is not a problem with the oppo.


Or if you have a tv that have hdmi plug the oppo directly to your tv and try the same media to check that you can get sound out of the oppo.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Or if you have a tv that have hdmi plug the oppo directly to your tv and try the same media to check that you can get sound out of the oppo.



I didn't check the audio side of things with the Oppo plugged into the tv. The fact that the Oppo won't boot up properly when it's connected to the D2v suggests something is wrong with the HDMI audio input on the Anthem. No such issues when the Oppo is turned on it's own or when plugged into the tv.


I don't have any other HDMI enabled devices as that would have been one of the things I would have tested for sure.


Can't test anymore now as the Anthem was picked up this morning. What I will test is the audio with the Oppo connected to the tv just to rule that out.


Thanks for your reply and suggestions.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *simonno10* /forum/post/21520196
> 
> 
> the fact that the oppo won't boot up properly when it's connected to the d2v suggests something is wrong with the hdmi audio input on the anthem.


*I believe that is a false assumption.*


----------



## obie_fl

Simon - Sorry if this is an obvious question but are you sure you had Audio In set to HDMI on the Anthem input you were testing on? This is different from the Scaler Input where you select the actual HDMI port number.


Also is this your third unit or have they repaired the same unit three times?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/21521180
> 
> 
> Simon - Sorry if this is an obvious question but are you sure you had Audio In set to HDMI on the Anthem input you were testing on? This is different from the Scaler Input where you select the actual HDMI port number.



I think that is a strong possibility.


Simon

Why didn't you box up the OPPO and send it with the Anthem ?


----------



## AVfile

^^ All good ideas.


My Pioneer universal disc player would not work with the Anthem on HDMI but it works fine connected directly to a TV on HDMI. I blamed the Anthem but in the end I sent the Pioneer in for service, and it was diagnosed with a faulty HDMI circuit of some kind and could not be fixed. The tech explained to me (in broken english) that it would work fine with a TV but some flaw in the circuit meant that it would NEVER work with a full A/V receiver.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21521443
> 
> 
> ^^ All good ideas.
> 
> 
> My Pioneer universal disc player would not work with the Anthem on HDMI but it works fine connected directly to a TV on HDMI. I blamed the Anthem but in the end I sent the Pioneer in for service, and it was diagnosed with a faulty HDMI circuit of some kind and could not be fixed. The tech explained to me (in broken english) that it would work fine with a TV but some flaw in the circuit meant that it would NEVER work with a full A/V receiver.



My Oppo BDP-93 did not work with anthem on HDMI1-HDMI4 and my TV. I emailed Anthem support and asked for a beta firmware. Works like a charm now on all HDMI inputs. But their verdict was that my daughter boards were faulty and I needed to send my unit for repair. I am glad I insisted on trying the beta firmware.


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21519365
> 
> 
> You can set distances after setting up ARC without having to re-run ARC so long as you only have one subwoofer. ARC never hears more than one speaker playing at a time so the distance settings don't affect the ARC results. In particular, you can set subwoofer Phase (which is a function of distance) AFTER setting up ARC.
> 
> 
> However, if you have more than one subwoofer you need to set subwoofer Phase for EACH sub PRIOR to running ARC since ARC will hear the combination of your subs playing simultaneously and their combined output is affected by their Phase settings. Since Phase is a function of distance that means you need to set the distances manually, manually get the sub volumes in the ballpark of the front speaker volumes (to make it easier to hear what you need to hear to set Phase), manually set Phase for each sub (one sub powered at a time), and THEN run ARC setup. ARC will refine your manually set volume trims, but it will not alter what you set for speaker distances or, of course, the Phase knob setting you make on each sub.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, Quick question. My sub volume was set to -7.5db within the D2 when I ran ARC and I'm having some auto on/off issues at low levels. Will I effect the ARC setup by using a Radio Shack SPL meter and adjusting the subs SPL to the same setting it is currently but by lowering the sub amp volume and raising the Pre-Amp out, so I don't have the Auto on/off issues at lower volumes. Or would I have to re-run ARC.


Joe


----------



## steven2583

SimonNo10 try different HDMI cables or switching them around. Cables do go bad. I have a HDMI to a unit that changes HDMI to component attached from my D2v (HDMI1 out) and if the cables wiggle a little loose by the cats walking behind my equipment my D2v won't boot it hangs after Anthem A/V doesn't show the 2nd line. So I'm thinking there is a bad connection between your OPPO and D2v. I go back behind all my stuff reset the HDMI to componet decryptor and make sure that cable is pushed all the way in reboot the D2v and it works. I'm just starting to get an issue on Audio doesn't want to come on in my D2v. I go to my Oppo 93 and switch Audio to LPCM or Bitstream or Auto around a couple of times and then sound starts. I'm just starting to troubleshoot that issue. Good luck.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I believe that is a false assumption



I disagree but yet to test Oppo for audio on tv.



> Quote:
> Simon - Sorry if this is an obvious question but are you sure you had Audio In set to HDMI on the Anthem input you were testing on? This is different from the Scaler Input where you select the actual HDMI port number.
> 
> 
> Also is this your third unit or have they repaired the same unit three times?



Yes I'm quite familiar with the setup of the D2v since troubleshooting on the 2 previous faulty units I had. I always check the basics before getting into the more advanced things. Always good to double check







. Everything was how I left it before it went away for repair. It came back with all setting intact the repairer didn't change a thing.



> Quote:
> Simon
> 
> Why didn't you box up the OPPO and send it with the Anthem ?



Because as far as I'm concerned it's not the player. Nothing else has changed other than the D2v being fixed. I didn't touch the Oppo in any way (HDMI still in back connected) all I did was turn off the power to the units before removing HDMI cables from the back of the D2v. Even the place of purchase said it's extremely unlikely it's my player.



> Quote:
> My Pioneer universal disc player would not work with the Anthem on HDMI but it works fine connected directly to a TV on HDMI. I blamed the Anthem but in the end I sent the Pioneer in for service, and it was diagnosed with a faulty HDMI circuit of some kind and could not be fixed. The tech explained to me (in broken english) that it would work fine with a TV but some flaw in the circuit meant that it would NEVER work with a full A/V receiver.



That's very interesting but not the case with my Oppo BDP-95, it's worked without issues with the D2v until now. The fact as I mentioned is it (Oppo) wont boot up properly when turned on with the D2v. If I turn it on it's own with the D2v off it boots fine, and connects and works fine when plugged into the tv using exactly the same HDMI input on the Oppo (HDMI 1). I also checked that HDMI on the Oppo in the setting was Video only (set to No) in it's menu. Once again I changed nothing in the Oppo settings since the Anthem was sent off for it's display fix.



> Quote:
> My Oppo BDP-93 did not work with anthem on HDMI1-HDMI4 and my TV. I emailed Anthem support and asked for a beta firmware. Works like a charm now on all HDMI inputs. But their verdict was that my daughter boards were faulty and I needed to send my unit for repair. I am glad I insisted on trying the beta firmware.



Ok so did you have to send the Anthem off for repair? I'm currently using firmware 2.12x and the only issue was the switching between sources other than that everything was fine.



> Quote:
> SimonNo10 try different HDMI cables or switching them around. Cables do go bad. I have a HDMI to a unit that changes HDMI to component attached from my D2v (HDMI1 out) and if the cables wiggle a little loose by the cats walking behind my equipment my D2v won't boot it hangs after Anthem A/V doesn't show the 2nd line.



Yep tried a different HDMI cable it didn't resolve the issue same problem. Everything was tight and not loose as I check that as well going through the basic things as you do. I can't test anymore as the Anthem is at the repairer and arrived there yesterday which was quick as the courier company said it wouldn't arrive until Monday. Made no difference as the repairer can't test it anyway until Monday.



> Quote:
> Also is this your third unit or have they repaired the same unit three times?



No it's not the same unit fixed 3 times it's 3 different units.


Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions and hope I didn't miss anyone







.


----------



## obie_fl

Simon - My educated guess at this point is the D2v does not like being operated upside down. I'm sorry but it seems you will have to move to the Northern Hemisphere. Here's hoping you get to the _bottom_ of things sooner rather then later.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Simon - My educated guess at this point is the D2v does not like being operated upside down. I'm sorry but it seems you will have to move to the Northern Hemisphere. Here's hoping you get to the bottom of things sooner rather then later.



LOL would not surprise me in the least. Well I plugged in the Oppo to my Sony (1080p HDMI 1 from Oppo) LCD tv and works flawlessly. Audio comes through and picture is fine with a Blu-Ray disc. So the Oppo is working perfectly.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21523531
> 
> 
> Ok so did you have to send the Anthem off for repair? I'm currently using firmware 2.12x and the only issue was the switching between sources other than that everything was fine.



Of course I did not send it to Anthem because it was obvious for me from the very beginning that this is a software issue, not the hardware issue. Moreover I will be getting a free upgrade for 3D hardware so those top HDMI daughter-boards will be replaced anyway.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21523531
> 
> 
> Because as far as I'm concerned it's not the player. Nothing else has changed other than the D2v being fixed. I didn't touch the Oppo in any way (HDMI still in back connected) all I did was turn off the power to the units before removing HDMI cables from the back of the D2v. Even the place of purchase said it's extremely unlikely it's my player.



My intention of boxing up the OPPO was not to blame the OPPO but to allow the repairer to work with and experience the same component setup in trying to solve the problem.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> My intention of boxing up the OPPO was not to blame the OPPO but to allow the repairer to work with and experience the same component setup in trying to solve the problem.



I completely understood what you meant but I didn't want to risk couriering my Oppo as well with my past luck with such things (another story). The repairer has an Oppo BDP-83 to test with the Anthem. I will find out Monday if he has the same issues as me, if not then it must be my Oppo as remote as that may be considering I tested it with my TV today and there's no issues at all. Nothing changed in the Oppo setup using same HDMI input.


----------



## CycloneMike

I watched Harry Potter - DHP2 last night on Bluray and found the center channel to be lacking. I have an Oppo 95 and the D2v. This is the first movie that I remember watching in which I had to boost the center channel by 2 dB to be able to clearly hear the dialog over the background sounds.


Odd - anybody else encounter this with the movie?


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## AVfile

^^Mike - I noticed that too.


Stefan


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Compare LPCM vs. Bitstream output from the player. This will help determine if the problem is in the content or is in the decoder in the Player vs the decoder in the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

I spoke to the tech guy that's testing my D2v today and he hooked it up to an Oppo-93 and it all works using the same setup as me and he changed nothing in the Anthem's setup menu, left it exactly as I have it setup at home. He used HDMI for both the output and input on the D2v and was getting sound and picture without issues.


So I am at a complete loss as to why it wont all of a sudden not work with my Oppo-95 which works fine on my Sony Tv using HDMI from Oppo. I will be getting the Anthem back this Thursday and will hook it back up as per normal and see what happens.


Just can't figure this one out.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21534727
> 
> 
> So I am at a complete loss as to why it wont all of a sudden not work with my Oppo-95 which works fine on my Sony Tv using HDMI from Oppo. I will be getting the Anthem back this Thursday and will hook it back up as per normal and see what happens.
> 
> 
> Just can't figure this one out.



Your OPPO sees a different protocol when connected to

the display versus the AVR. When connected to the display

it sees the display. When Connected to the AVR - it sees

a Repeated Signal versus the source. In THEORY - it should

be fine.


I still think your problem is the OPPO and not the Anthem.

But my opinion is only worth 2 cents American


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21534727
> 
> 
> I spoke to the tech guy that's testing my D2v today and he hooked it up to an Oppo-93 and it all works using the same setup as me and he changed nothing in the Anthem's setup menu, left it exactly as I have it setup at home. He used HDMI for both the output and input on the D2v and was getting sound and picture without issues.
> 
> 
> So I am at a complete loss as to why it wont all of a sudden not work with my Oppo-95 which works fine on my Sony Tv using HDMI from Oppo. I will be getting the Anthem back this Thursday and will hook it back up as per normal and see what happens.
> 
> 
> Just can't figure this one out.



I have to repeat my suggestion from before. Send him your OPPO and your cables.

Eliminate any doubt. If its the OPPO, their CS people may be able to help


----------



## steven2583

I think I'm having the same problem with Simon now. Things degraded over the weekend. Most of the time now I get no audio from my D2v with multiple HDMI sources right when I boot everything up. I play around switching between sources for awhile and then it comes one. I upgraded the firmware to 2.12x and then back down to 2.10. Made no difference. I also configured the Opt1 and AES and it does the same thing. No audio. I switch around the sources and go into the menu and something seems to click and then the audio starts. I haven't figured out a pattern yet. Once the sound comes on the audio is there in all it's glory until I power down the unit. I switched a few HDMI cables out and the noise on the picture went down but the configuration is basically the same configuration I was running months ago with no issues.


----------



## rovingtravler

There is a much newer Firmware on the tech page. If you call and they think it will help.


It is 2.13 something... I cannot remember off hand. I am running 2.11 (c) with the best results.


----------



## obie_fl

If you were seeing cable dependant noise on digital HDMI video you very likely have some cabling or connector issues. Digital video should be perfect with regards to noise and since it is digital data what affects the video is likely affecting the audio too.


----------



## jerbob




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21498020
> 
> 
> Thank you! I will just wait then for those upper daughter boards to be swapped with the new 3D ones, no reason to hurry as with low HDMI row everything works perfectly now. The most amazing thing is that everything else works fine with those daughter boards except from OPPO BDP-93.
> 
> 
> I have one more theoretical question about Anthem AVM 50V. When I am feeding the 192 KHz music, is it down-converteing to 96 KHz first to be processed by DSP/ARC or DSP/ARC work in 192 KHz domain, or Anthem does not apply some corrections to 192 Khz input? I am asking because when looking at input and output format I can see 192 KHz for input but 96 KHz (or sometimes even 48 KHz) for output on LCD screen so I am wondering why not 192 KHz for output.



Did you ever get your HD music problem resolved? I ask because I have the exact same problem. I am feeding my Anthem AVM 50V, 192 KHz music from an Oppo BDP 93 player through HDMI 1. My 50V shows that it is receiving 192 KHz input but it is ouputting 96 KHz.


I have tried other inputs and some other settings but no luck. Any help will be appreciated.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I think I'm having the same problem with Simon now. Things degraded over the weekend. Most of the time now I get no audio from my D2v with multiple HDMI sources right when I boot everything up. I play around switching between sources for awhile and then it comes one. I upgraded the firmware to 2.12x and then back down to 2.10. Made no difference. I also configured the Opt1 and AES and it does the same thing. No audio. I switch around the sources and go into the menu and something seems to click and then the audio starts. I haven't figured out a pattern yet. Once the sound comes on the audio is there in all it's glory until I power down the unit. I switched a few HDMI cables out and the noise on the picture went down but the configuration is basically the same configuration I was running months ago with no issues



That's pretty interesting. At the time of my testing I didn't have a display connected so I couldn't go into the Oppo and change anything like Bitstream/pcm to see if that made any difference. I did go into the D2v's setup and switched sources and changed the HDMI audio inputs according to what I had connected at the time where I tried inputs 1-2 and then 8. I spent an hour trying but it simply wouldn't talk to the Oppo.


I had the opportunity to get the unit delivered to a relatives today then get it on Thursday but after talking to the place of purchase they would prefer the unit be tested more to completly cover everything. The service person couldn't use HDMI 1 video (output) on the D2v as his tv wouldn't accept 1920x108024p (setup for Bluray) and he didn't want to mess around with the setup so he used HDMI 2 instead (setup for dvd 1920x1080i60). He encountered "0" issues.


The service guy unfortunalty isn't in today and no one else can test it out, so I have to wait until tomorrow before he can replicate exactly how I have it at home and he said he will have a projector on hand this time which is good.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob* /forum/post/21538281
> 
> 
> Did you ever get your HD music problem resolved? I ask because I have the exact same problem. I am feeding my Anthem AVM 50V, 192 KHz music from an Oppo BDP 93 player through HDMI 1. My 50V shows that it is receiving 192 KHz input but it is ouputting 96 KHz.
> 
> 
> I have tried other inputs and some other settings but no luck. Any help will be appreciated.



I did not receive an answer from Bob on my question and I don't actually consider it a problem. I really suspect that DSP in Anthem 50V cannot (or does not like or want) to handle 192 KHz so it down-converts 192 KHz to 96 KHz if correction is on. When you switch ARC Room EQ off, you will get full 192 KHz on output as well so it indirectly proves my theory. If 50v and d2v have the same DSP chips then d2v should behave the same otherwise it is just a marketing ploy to down-sample 192 KHz in 50v for ARC/processing which would be a bit unfair.


----------



## goatwuss

Hello folks,


I have an Anthem D2. I got a pair of Revel Studio speakers the other day, and they have mad bass output for my room! I figured that I would run them full range, and not use a sub.


I ran through ARC (version 3.0.1 I believe), and I set the target curve to "flat."


All seems to be well, except when LFE kicks in it is super loud! It sounds like it's up 10db or so.


Anyone know what might be going on and how to fix it?


Thanks!!!


Todd

(Goatwuss)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21538870
> 
> 
> I did not receive an answer from Bob . . .



That's because Bob didn't know the answer. If the AVM 50v has a quirk like this it's news to me, but I don't use an AVM 50v so I can't check.

--Bob


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21539139
> 
> 
> That's because Bob didn't know the answer. If the AVM 50v has a quirk like this it's news to me, but I don't use an AVM 50v so I can't check.
> 
> --Bob



True, but you was the only one who honestly answered technical questions about Anthem processors and I thank you for that. Anthem support evade direct answers altogether. DSP chips in 50v and d2v look similar according to specifications (dual core 800 MIPS) but d2v upconverts everything up to 192 KHz (either before ARC/DSP or after) so probably it is always showing 192 KHz in audio output where as 50v is honestly stating that initial 192 KHz was down-converted to 96 KHz for ARC processing. According to this review ARC is working with frequencies up to 96 KHz so my guess is that d2v is down-converting the 192 KHz before ARC too but we don't see (and hear) it:
http://www.avforums.com/review/Anthe...er-Review.html


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Can a D2v without the new HDMI daughter board already take advantage of the new firmware available in beta (D2v v2.13b) in order to use the new auto frame rate switching?


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Can a D2v without the new HDMI daughter board already take advantage of the new firmware available in beta (D2v v2.13b) in order to use the new auto frame rate switching?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yes, at your own risk of course









John


----------



## xtrips

Ok. Good enough. Did you try that yourself? What about ARC? Do I need to do a rerun afterwards?


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/21540299
> 
> 
> Ok. Good enough. Did you try that yourself? What about ARC? Do I need to do a rerun afterwards?



The version of ARC did not change so you don't have to rerun it. You may need to re-upload your old arc settings after updating the firmware.


----------



## Texas steve

Just FYI with my D2V w/o 3d board, beta version 2.12X the HDMI inputs did not work, went back to 2.11 and all fine. Dont know about 2.13, but as John says, "at your own risk" Anyone else try 2.13b w/o 3d board and have HDMI input problems?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21540235
> 
> 
> Yes, at your own risk of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/21540299
> 
> 
> Ok. Good enough. Did you try that yourself? What about ARC? Do I need to do a rerun afterwards?



Hopefully trying it today. No need to rerun ARC.

John


----------



## cougar75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21539139
> 
> 
> That's because Bob didn't know the answer.
> 
> --Bob




That would defy the law of physics.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75* /forum/post/21540669
> 
> 
> That would defy the law of physics.



Scotty said you can't defy the laws of physics so therefore he must know









John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21539361
> 
> 
> True, but you was the only one who honestly answered technical questions about Anthem processors and I thank you for that. Anthem support evade direct answers altogether. DSP chips in 50v and d2v look similar according to specifications (dual core 800 MIPS) but d2v upconverts everything up to 192 KHz (either before ARC/DSP or after) so probably it is always showing 192 KHz in audio output where as 50v is honestly stating that initial 192 KHz was down-converted to 96 KHz for ARC processing. According to this review ARC is working with frequencies up to 96 KHz so my guess is that d2v is down-converting the 192 KHz before ARC too but we don't see (and hear) it:
> http://www.avforums.com/review/Anthe...er-Review.html



Maybe you missed this on the forum you talked about above.


************************************************************ ************************************************************ *******


" The D2v, which replaced the D2 in Jan 2009 and has four DSP cores instead of two, accepts 192k (8 channels). It does not necessarily down-convert for ARC, only doing so when certain other processes are on, namely Dolby Volume* and/or THX. The mandate was to keep sample rate native where possible, and to use the highest possible when down-res is unavoidable.


*which is very intensive, requiring conversion all the way to 48k."


Best Regards,

[email protected]

AND


************************************************************ ************************************************************ ******


Q: How does the MRX 300/500/700 ARC implementation compare to D2v/AVM50v?


A: ARC consists of software that runs on a user-supplied computer which calculates a room correction solution and a DSP chip in the receiver which implements it. The ARC software is the same for all Anthem A/V receivers and processors. The MRX DSP is about half as powerful as in the D2v/AVM50v.

*Nick @ Anthem elaborates:*


MRX 300/500/700 DSP has around the same amount of number crunching ability as anything in the price range, which is around half as much as AVM/D prepros using ARC (and PBK for that matter), which have as much as pro systems in the five figures. This means that MRX 300/500/700 corrected response usually does not meet target response as closely as AVM/D, thought it's also usually not too far off.

The other difference is that correction range not only defaults to 5 kHz but cannot be made to go higher. Correction above 5 kHz is not normally recommended regardless.

Another difference not dependent on ARC is that MRX DSP uses crossover frequencies of 60, 80, 100, 120, and 150 whereas AVM/D allows 25-160 in 5 Hz steps. It relates because ARC selects the crossover frequencies based on in-room measured response.

The practical difference depends on the amount of correction the room speaker/combo needs, and this varies greatly. MRX-ARC still improves things regardless, using the same principles as the other ARC.


Stew


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21540876
> 
> 
> Maybe you missed this on the forum you talked about above.
> 
> 
> ************************************************************ ************************************************************ *******
> 
> 
> " The D2v, which replaced the D2 in Jan 2009 and has four DSP cores instead of two, accepts 192k (8 channels). It does not necessarily down-convert for ARC, only doing so when certain other processes are on, namely Dolby Volume* and/or THX. The mandate was to keep sample rate native where possible, and to use the highest possible when down-res is unavoidable.
> 
> 
> *which is very intensive, requiring conversion all the way to 48k."
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> Stew



I just checked Anthem data sheet for 50v and d2v and both of them have two dual-core DSP processors with total up to 800MIPS. So there is no difference in DSP here between those processors but 50v is clearly downsamples to 96KHz from 192KHz when ARC is on and no Dolby volume and THX. So technically speaking either d2v does the same downconversion for ARC but we don't see it because it upconverts it back to 192 KHz or 50v was deliberately doing it just to be different from d2v (but not because it should do that).


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/21538968
> 
> 
> Hello folks,
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem D2. I got a pair of Revel Studio speakers the other day, and they have mad bass output for my room! I figured that I would run them full range, and not use a sub.
> 
> 
> I ran through ARC (version 3.0.1 I believe), and I set the target curve to "flat."
> 
> 
> All seems to be well, except when LFE kicks in it is super loud! It sounds like it's up 10db or so.
> 
> 
> Anyone know what might be going on and how to fix it?
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!
> 
> 
> Todd
> 
> (Goatwuss)



Todd,

By setting the sub to flat in ARC you diable ARC's filters that are meant to protect your sub -- or speakers set to full range.

Many subs have their own protection built in, which makes setting the sub to flat safe. ARC will send the unfiltered bass/lfe to the sub or speaker, and the filters in the sub or speaker will decide what is safe.

Not all subs have this filtering built in, which is why it is recommended to check first before using the flat setting.

I would guess that even fewer speakers have this type of protection built in.

*If I were you I would disable the flat setting in ARC to your fronts. Immediatly.* You can check with Revel to see if there is built in protection for LFE.


You have the option in ARC of:

-setting your fronts to full range, but leaving the sub setting at auto, not flat.

-using your sub for lfe, and setting it to flat, if it is capable.

-setting up separate music and movie speaker configurations in ARC, using your sub for movies, but setting your fronts to full for music.


My sugestion would be to setup the separate movie and music configurations in ARC, using your sub for movies, but leaving your speakers at full range range for the music configuration.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21541171
> 
> 
> Todd,
> 
> By setting the sub to flat in ARC you diable ARC's filters that are meant to protect your sub -- or speakers set to full range.
> 
> Many subs have their own protection built in, which makes setting the sub to flat safe. ARC will send the unfiltered bass/lfe to the sub or speaker, and the filters in the sub or speaker will decide what is safe.
> 
> Not all subs have this filtering built in, which is why it is recommended to check first before using the flat setting.
> 
> I would guess that even fewer speakers have this type of protection built in.
> 
> *If I were you I would disable the flat setting in ARC to your fronts. Immediatly.* You can check with Revel to see if there is built in protection for LFE.
> 
> 
> You have the option in ARC of:
> 
> -setting your fronts to full range, but leaving the sub setting at auto, not flat.
> 
> -using your sub for lfe, and setting it to flat, if it is capable.
> 
> -setting up separate music and movie speaker configurations in ARC, using your sub for movies, but setting your fronts to full for music.
> 
> 
> My sugestion would be to setup the separate movie and music configurations in ARC, using your sub for movies, but leaving your speakers at full range range for the music configuration.
> 
> 
> Tom



He has no sub and using the LFE at high volume with these audio speakers with 2 8" woofers may not be safe.


Specs for Revel Studio

Frequency responses: in-room response and first-reflection, 31Hz-12kHz, ±1dB; listening window, 31Hz-20kHz, ±1.5dB. Low-frequency extension: -10dB at 22Hz, -6dB at 26Hz, -3dB at 33Hz.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/21538968
> 
> 
> Hello folks,
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem D2. I got a pair of Revel Studio speakers the other day, and they have mad bass output for my room! I figured that I would run them full range, and not use a sub.
> 
> I ran through ARC (version 3.0.1 I believe), and I set the target curve to "flat."
> 
> All seems to be well, except when LFE kicks in it is super loud! It sounds like it's up 10db or so.
> 
> Anyone know what might be going on and how to fix it?
> 
> Thanks!!!
> 
> Todd
> 
> (Goatwuss)



Todd


I suggest posting the ARC results including targets.


Stew


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21541342
> 
> 
> He has no sub and using the LFE at high volume with these audio speakers with 2 8" woofers may not be safe.
> 
> 
> Specs for Revel Studio
> 
> Frequency responses: in-room response and first-reflection, 31Hz-12kHz, ±1dB; listening window, 31Hz-20kHz, ±1.5dB. Low-frequency extension: -10dB at 22Hz, -6dB at 26Hz, -3dB at 33Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Todd
> 
> 
> I suggest posting the ARC results including targets.
> 
> 
> Stew



Stew,

It's unclear to me whether or not he has a sub (and decided to take it out of the mix) or has no sub. You may be correct in your assumption.


Either way Todd should remove the 'flat' setting ASAP.

There is a chance he may damage his speakers if they do not have built in protection necessary to run ARC at flat.

Better safe than sorry.


Tom


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21540235
> 
> 
> Yes, at your own risk of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



So I loaded the 2.13b FW after I saved my settings and erased flash.

Then I loaded my settings back and my ARC parameters.

All is working fine and there is this new Video Out Res'n parameter called "Auto".

It sounded like that was what I was looking for.

I tried different video input formats (24/50/60) but the output is always 60.

So I guess this Auto thing has no effect for the moment.

Maybe with the new daughter board.

Does anybody here has some info about that?


Thanks


----------



## matty1137

Do the Statement and AVM processors use the same power cord?


----------



## goatwuss

Hi Tom and Stew,


Thanks so much for replying to me!


I do have a sub that I can use (2 actually, either a Rythmic 12" or a Rel Strata III), so I will plan on taking your advice and putting one of them back in the mix.


I appreciate your feedback on the danger of running the speakers flat like that - but do you know the answer to the question I was asking by any chance?


Basically my situation is that LFE content is WAY TOO LOUD with my current setup after running ARC. Do either of you know why this would be happening?


Thanks,

Todd


----------



## mookie b

Does anyone run an external video processor with their D2v or 50v? I'm curious what something like a lumagen would provide beyond the video processor inside the Anthems....which to my eyes is really good.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone run an external video processor with their D2v or 50v? I'm curious what something like a lumagen would provide beyond the video processor inside the Anthems....which to my eyes is really good.



I believe most people sell their video processors with both models. Seems like overkill.

John


----------



## obie_fl

I've mentioned Lumagen here before without much response. I'm still on the original D2 so it makes a little more sense for my setup. Several possible advantages for me, a CMS, 3D capable, additional HDMI inputs and video autocal with both SpectraCal and Chromapure.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/21543691
> 
> 
> Hi Tom and Stew,
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for replying to me!
> 
> 
> I do have a sub that I can use (2 actually, either a Rythmic 12" or a Rel Strata III), so I will plan on taking your advice and putting one of them back in the mix.
> 
> 
> I appreciate your feedback on the danger of running the speakers flat like that - but do you know the answer to the question I was asking by any chance?
> 
> 
> Basically my situation is that LFE content is WAY TOO LOUD with my current setup after running ARC. Do either of you know why this would be happening?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Todd



I am under the impression that something else may be causing the problem.


Did you check to see if you may have set the sub bass to super in setup ?

Did you set subwoofer to NO in the basic setup ?

How is the audio input set when the listening problem is heard. Dig, ANL-DSP, Anlg-Dir ?

Did you zero out the sub in the ARC setup ?


Post your ARC results if you want further info or help


----------



## goatwuss




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21544188
> 
> 
> I am under the impression that something else may be causing the problem.
> 
> 
> Did you check to see if you may have set the sub bass to super in setup ?
> 
> Did you set subwoofer to NO in the basic setup ?
> 
> How is the audio input set when the listening problem is heard. Dig, ANL-DSP, Anlg-Dir ?
> 
> Did you zero out the sub in the ARC setup ?
> 
> 
> Post your ARC results if you want further info or help



Subs are set to "None"


I only hear the problem on 5.1 content, ie. dolby digital & blu rays. Analog sounds fine, along with stereo digital.


Yes, in the ARC setup I turned the sub off.


Here are my ARC results:


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/21544380
> 
> 
> Subs are set to "None"
> 
> 
> I only hear the problem on 5.1 content, ie. dolby digital & blu rays. Analog sounds fine, along with stereo digital.
> 
> 
> Yes, in the ARC setup I turned the sub off.
> 
> 
> Here are my ARC results:



What version of firmware are you running in your D2? It should be V1.33.


With no Sub, and Flat set for LF/RF, LFE content and bass in the normal LF/RF channels well down into the subsonic frequencies is being sent to LF/RF with no attenuation. It is possible your LF/RF have peaks below 20Hz that aren't showing on the chart.


To check that, take them off Flat and set a cutoff/crossover at 20 or 30Hz in ARC's Targets window. Re-Calculate and re-Upload.


You also appear to have about 4dB of Room Gain in the solution. ARC's Targets window would show that. That's the rise in the Targets curves to the left of the normal crossover frequencies. Because of that, LFE will run about 4dB hot -- which is the desired effect of the Room Gain. You could try lowering Room Gain a bit in Targets (re-Calculate and re-Upload).


You can check your levels using a good calibration disc and an SPL meter. I recommend the LPCM Channel ID test tracks from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray. If you really do have a +10dB error in LFE output in your configuration it will easily show up in such a test. If so, talk to Anthem tech support as you may have found a new bug.


NOTE: It's also possible your player is putting out incorrect LFE levels. If so, that should be a topic of considerable comment in the owner's thread for that player. Many early Blu-ray players had bugs that resulted in +5 or +10dB errors in HDMI LFE output. There should be a firmware upgrade available for any such players.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Also make sure you don't have any "temporary" level adjustments hanging around screwing up your playback levels.


To clear ALL the Temporary adjustments all at once, go into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video at this point, continue via the Front Panel display

3) Reload Saved User Settings


The Temporary level adjustment settings you can make using the buttons on the remote are not saved, so this procedure resets all of them.


While you are at it, go into Setup > Source Setup for your Source and make sure ARC (i.e., Room EQ) is turned ON for that Source. If it is OFF you will be hearing odd stuff since Setup settings Uploaded by ARC are in effect but the Room Correction parameters are disabled.

--Bob


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/21544380
> 
> 
> Subs are set to "None"
> 
> 
> I only hear the problem on 5.1 content, ie. dolby digital & blu rays. Analog sounds fine, along with stereo digital.
> 
> 
> Yes, in the ARC setup I turned the sub off.
> 
> 
> Here are my ARC results:



Hi,


I'm a long-time reader of this thread (and have frequently benefitted from other contributors thanks to all) but this is my first post.

I have had a D2v for just over two years and have (for the most part) enjoyed the performance. However, I have experienced high bass levels when using Music mode which is set for just FL/FR and Stereo sources (versus my Movie mode which is 6.1). I appreciate that this is slightly different to what you describe, but in some ways it sounds similar. After banging my head fruitlessly against Anthem's tech support and explaining the symptoms in a dozen emails, supplying all of the ARC files and even supplying ETF measurements (using calibrated mic/pre-amp), I finally gave up.

Anthem basically said "it's normal" because the LF from the other speakers is redirected to the FL/FR... I repeatedly said the other speakers are not enabled, but to no effect (no sensible response). I am sure that I did not suffer from this earlier in the year (with the same SW/FW versions) and the phenomenon is certainly worse with AL Music engaged under the same circumstances.

I eventually enabled the surround speakers (but still no Sub) and the problem is gone. As far as I am concerned, there is a bug but Anthem will take no action because they cannot reproduce the symptom (or haven't tried...) and no one else has reported the symptoms.

Regards

Russell


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I just checked Anthem data sheet for 50v and d2v and both of them have two dual-core DSP processors with total up to 800MIPS. So there is no difference in DSP here between those processors but 50v is clearly downsamples to 96KHz from 192KHz when ARC is on and no Dolby volume and THX. So technically speaking either d2v does the same downconversion for ARC but we don't see it because it upconverts it back to 192 KHz or 50v was deliberately doing it just to be different from d2v (but not because it should do that).



The 50v has different DACs - not sure if they can run at 196k or are limited to 96k.


edit: We know the 50v does not upsample to 192k like the D2v but don't know if it downsamples 192k to 96k before hitting the DACs or if the DACs do this inherently. Right now the display does seem to indicate that is the case (example: INPUT 176k = OUTPUT 96k) but I don't recall if it did this with my original 2.10 firmware. I will have to downgrade and try it.


Anyway I think something is up with recent firmware. I used to play high-res multi-ch PCM (SACD converted to 176k by Sony BDPs770) and it sounded glorious! The last time I tried a SACD was with v2.10.


Now (2.12x) I get a "grating" treble (distorted upper-mid?) and crushed dynamics as if waveforms are being cut off. It's most noticeable as a resonance on piano or vibraphone.


No problem with DD or DTS or low-res LPCM from movies. Only with 5.1 LPCM 176kHz so far. I don't have any 192k DVDA or BD. Can anyone else try this?


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/21542083
> 
> 
> So I loaded the 2.13b FW after I saved my settings and erased flash.
> 
> Then I loaded my settings back and my ARC parameters.
> 
> All is working fine and there is this new Video Out Res'n parameter called "Auto".
> 
> It sounded like that was what I was looking for.
> 
> I tried different video input formats (24/50/60) but the output is always 60.
> 
> So I guess this Auto thing has no effect for the moment.
> 
> Maybe with the new daughter board.
> 
> Does anybody here has some info about that?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Bump!

So in short, does the auto framerate feature operates without the new HDMI board or not?

Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

AVfile,


I'm using V2.13b firmware on the D2v.


2L "The Nordic Sound", Blu-ray, has a 5.1 LPCM 192KHz 24-bit track, which the Oppo 93 outputs just that way to the D2v. It sounds fine to me, both for treble and for dynamics. Track 2, for example is a piano track.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Thanks Bob. I will have to experiment with different source material such as 96k DVDs.


Anyone with a 50v running 2.12+ with >96k input?


Note: Perhaps "grating treble" is not the right word. There is definitely distortion in the upper midrange that causes a very irritating ringing in my ears that becomes very fatigueing over time. At first I thought I had a blown tweeter or midrange unit but it is coming from all the speakers. I tried different surround processing modes including NONE and without ARC EQ.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/21545772
> 
> 
> Bump!
> 
> So in short, does the auto framerate feature operates without the new HDMI board or not?
> 
> Thanks



I think he already tried it and answered his own question. That is, NO way, you need the new hardware as Nick originally announced.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21545514
> 
> 
> Now (2.12x) I get a grating treble and crushed dynamics as if waveforms are being cut off. It's most noticeable as a resonance on piano or vibraphone.



AVM 50v only. Appeared in v2.12x and fixed in v2.13b. All multiples of 44.1 were affected.


----------



## AVfile

^^ Awesome, thanks! I know what I'll be doing tonight - oh darn, it's Robbie Burns day










Just guessing here, was the bug introduced because the new 50v beta code stemmed from the new D2v beta code and the DACs are different?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I will have to experiment with different source material such as 96k DVDs.
> 
> 
> Anyone with a 50v running 2.12+ with >96k input?
> 
> 
> Note: Perhaps "grating treble" is not the right word. There is definitely distortion in the upper midrange that causes a very irritating ringing in my ears that becomes very fatigueing over time. At first I thought I had a blown tweeter or midrange unit but it is coming from all the speakers. I tried different surround processing modes including NONE and without ARC EQ.



There's an audio fix for the AVM 50v in V2.13b. Perhaps it is related?


ETA: Ah, I see Nick has already clarified this.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21546186
> 
> 
> Just guessing here, was the bug introduced because the new 50v beta code stemmed from the new D2v beta code and the DACs are different?



Nothing to do with D2v or DACs.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21545514
> 
> 
> The 50v has different DACs - not sure if they can run at 196k or are limited to 96k.
> 
> 
> edit: We know the 50v does not upsample to 192k like the D2v but don't know if it downsamples 192k to 96k before hitting the DACs or if the DACs do this inherently. Right now the display does seem to indicate that is the case (example: INPUT 176k = OUTPUT 96k) but I don't recall if it did this with my original 2.10 firmware. I will have to downgrade and try it.
> 
> 
> Anyway I think something is up with recent firmware. I used to play high-res multi-ch PCM (SACD converted to 176k by Sony BDPs770) and it sounded glorious! The last time I tried a SACD was with v2.10.
> 
> 
> Now (2.12x) I get a "grating" treble (distorted upper-mid?) and crushed dynamics as if waveforms are being cut off. It's most noticeable as a resonance on piano or vibraphone.
> 
> 
> No problem with DD or DTS or low-res LPCM from movies. Only with 5.1 LPCM 176kHz so far. I don't have any 192k DVDA or BD. Can anyone else try this?



According to spec sheet for 50v DACs they can accept 192 KHz (and they do with ARC EQ off). I saw this 192 KHz -> 96 KHz with 2.10 too when ARC EQ was ON. With ARC EQ off, both input and output are 192 KHz so it clearly downsamples for ARC for some reason.


----------



## Texas steve

anyone try 2.13B W/O the 3d board on their D2V? I tried 2.12X and the HDMI inputs did not work, switched back to 2.11 and all good again. NICK - I sent this info into Tech Support as well.


----------



## trav720

I recently had the ARC upgrade performed on my AVM50 & ran it the other day. I just wanted to see if my results are fairly normal, or if there are ways that I can improve the sound in my room. Thanks.

 

ARC results.doc 491.5k . file


----------



## Texas steve

IF you could post your settings as well that would be helpfull. One issue I see is on your sub, it apears to have a cut-off freq set as it plunges down at the end. Check to see that the cutoff is set to zero.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trav720* /forum/post/21547895
> 
> 
> I recently had the ARC upgrade performed on my AVM50 & ran it the other day. I just wanted to see if my results are fairly normal, or if there are ways that I can improve the sound in my room. Thanks.


----------



## trav720

Thanks for the response. I'm not sure which settings you are referring to, but the response cutoffs that ARC set are: Fronts: 60/Center:115/Surrounds:85/Sub:120. Room Gain is 3.945749. Is there some other setting I can check for the sub cutoff? The LP filter is set to off on the sub. I would think that the cutoffs for the front and center speakers would be similar due to the drivers being the same. I’m running Paradigm CC-100 for the fronts, CC-590 Center, ADP-590 surrounds & a f112 sub. Thanks, Travis


----------



## k elone

I am aware that this the "Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 Tweaking Guide," but I figured that if anyone had information about Anthem Amps, you guys would.


I am looking at getting a new Anthem MCA 50 Amp. Does anyone know the current suggested retail price of the amp? What would be a fair price for the amp?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21546308
> 
> 
> There's an audio fix for the AVM 50v in V2.13b. Perhaps it is related?
> 
> 
> ETA: Ah, I see Nick has already clarified this.
> 
> --Bob



Distortion problem is fixed but now there is a constant hissing noise


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21550119
> 
> 
> Distortion problem is fixed but now there is a constant hissing noise



The Anthem does not like your choice of music? Do you hear any faint booing, too?


All seriousness aside, no hiss here. You'll need to work the issue with Anthem tech support. I presume you had no hiss before. Hiss is sometimes due to radio frequency interference -- the usual culprit being room light dimmer switches, sometimes in an adjacent room. (See the Hiss/Hum FAQ sticky thread in the Audio Theory forum here for other suggestions.)

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

There is also applause between tracks on some music... LOL


Seriously this is a very loud hiss and once again, only starts when playing 176k (multiples of 44k) material. 96k (multiples of 48k) is fine.


I have e-mailed Andrew.


----------



## Texas steve

bump










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21547799
> 
> 
> anyone try 2.13B W/O the 3d board on their D2V? I tried 2.12X and the HDMI inputs did not work, switched back to 2.11 and all good again. NICK - I sent this info into Tech Support as well.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21547799
> 
> 
> anyone try 2.13B W/O the 3d board on their D2V? I tried 2.12X and the HDMI inputs did not work, switched back to 2.11 and all good again. NICK - I sent this info into Tech Support as well.



I am running 2.13b now but I see no point of doing so without the HDMI new board.


----------



## Texas steve

are you running it with or w/o the 3d board? I note that there are several fixes from 2.11 that are seperate from the 3d board. Just asking










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/21552378
> 
> 
> I am running 2.13b now but I see no point of doing so without the HDMI new board.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> are you running it with or w/o the 3d board? I note that there are several fixes from 2.11 that are seperate from the 3d board. Just asking



You're correct, there are fixes for non new HDMI board so why not try it.

John


----------



## mookie b

These are all betas you're talking about, right?


Anthem's website still shows 2.10 and 3.02 for ARC as the current ones, which is what I've had for several years it seems. Just confirming.


----------



## Texas steve

Correct, but I thought 2.11 was a offical release for teh D2V


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/21552907
> 
> 
> These are all betas you're talking about, right?
> 
> 
> Anthem's website still shows 2.10 and 3.02 for ARC as the current ones, which is what I've had for several years it seems. Just confirming.


----------



## Texas steve

John have you tried it w/o the 3d board?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21552543
> 
> 
> You're correct, there are fixes for non new HDMI board so why not try it.
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> John have you tried it w/o the 3d board?



Steve,

I have the 3D board, as does Bob, but haven't had a chance to load it yet.

John


----------



## Texas steve

So, you have the 3d board but not installed AND you have not loaded 2.13B or you have not installed the 3d board and have installed 2.13B and all works?










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21553050
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> I have the 3D board, as does Bob, but haven't had a chance to load it yet.
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, you have the 3d board but not installed AND you have not loaded 2.13B or you have not installed the 3d board and have installed 2.13B and all works?



The board is installed but I haven't loaded 2.13b.

John


----------



## Texas steve

Got it! thanks John, hope all is well in 2012!

























> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21553435
> 
> 
> The board is installed but I haven't loaded 2.13b.
> 
> John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got it! thanks John, hope all is well in 2012!



Thanks Steve,

I'll report back when firmware is installed.

John


----------



## Randall Morton

Is it possible to get sound from a blu-ray HDMI source through the D2 without a video output? I'm just wondering if there is a way to use 3D with the D2? I have a Panasonic BR player with two live HDMI outputs so I could go straight to the projector with the video. I'm still happy with my D2 and don't really want to spend the money for a D2V for 3D.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it possible to get sound from a blu-ray HDMI source through the D2 without a video output? I'm just wondering if there is a way to use 3D with the D2? I have a Panasonic BR player with two live HDMI outputs so I could go straight to the projector with the video. I'm still happy with my D2 and don't really want to spend the money for a D2V for 3D.



I believe some already do that. Drhankz comes to mind.

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21553711
> 
> 
> I believe some already do that. Drhankz comes to mind.
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/21553561
> 
> 
> Is it possible to get sound from a blu-ray HDMI source through the D2 without a video output? I'm just wondering if there is a way to use 3D with the D2? I have a Panasonic BR player with two live HDMI outputs so I could go straight to the projector with the video. I'm still happy with my D2 and don't really want to spend the money for a D2V for 3D.



Correct John the Panny 310 works fine with the D2.


----------



## Randall Morton

I have the Pany 310. Seems like I've tried most settings but I'm unable to get the audio to output if I disconnnect the HDMI out to projector from the D2. What am I doing wrong?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Randall Morton* /forum/post/21553875
> 
> 
> I have the Pany 310. Seems like I've tried most settings but I'm unable to get the audio to output if I disconnnect the HDMI out to projector from the D2. What am I doing wrong?



The Panny Manual is pretty clear with what you need for Cabling

and Settings. I leave my D2 Video out connected all the time.


I ran a new VIDEO ONLY Cable to the PJ - HDMI-2 Input and

the Audio Cable from the 310 to the D2.


Which Connector you use for Audio and Video is *CRITICAL* as

are the Panny *Internal Settings.*


----------



## Randall Morton

Still doesn't work for me. I get sound as long as I have a live output to my projector from D2. I have HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 on my Marantz projector and have both connected, HDMI 1 to Pany HDMI output and HDMI 2 to D2 HDMI output. I've switched HDMI cables on Pany with the same results. If I turn on video for HDMI AV out sub I get video to the projector from the D2 with sound.


AV out sub to D2 with Video off Audio on.


AV out main to projector.


----------



## SimonNo10

I'm getting my D2v returned today to one of my relatives and then I will pick it up tomorrow. The service place has replaced the front display and just to make sure, they have fully replaced the HDMI boards (full set) new from the factory as was the new display (1st attempt came from another new D2v but I saw an issue on it) when put in mine.


So been awhile but finally getting it back and I got my projector back from repair yesterday so whole weekend to test things out.


----------



## Chris P

I sent my D2v to Anthem after board failed and everything works upon reconnection except PS3. HDMI connection, worked perfectly prior to repair. I tested the PS3 with my Lumagen XE, worked fine.


Does anyone have similar problems with PS3? Ideas?

Thanks


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chris P* /forum/post/21557320
> 
> 
> I sent my D2v to Anthem after board failed and everything works upon reconnection except PS3. HDMI connection, worked perfectly prior to repair. I tested the PS3 with my Lumagen XE, worked fine.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have similar problems with PS3? Ideas?
> 
> Thanks



Sorry if I am stating the obvious....you have tried the PS3 on a known good HDMI port with a known good cable? It's a game of elimination....


Also, have you changed the resolution settings on the PS3 while your D2V was away (maybe using it on a different display?). If yes, start up the PS3 by pressing *and holding* the power button on the machine and that forces a resolution reset (I think after a while it beeps once or twice - wait for that, should default down to 480i or similar).


----------



## PlatinumSV

How do you attach arc files to the thread. I'd like some opinions, after several runs I finally got it were it sounds great, however I'm still lacking a bit in the sub department. With Room EQ disabled and using my spl I am very pleased with the low end. However once I enable arc it seems to lack a bit. I've tried both my JLf113 and my Epik Empire and I get the same result. Is it ok to manual raise the LFE a few db hot or will that completly screw up arc.


Joe


----------



## Chris P

I have not used the PS3 since the D2 failed but will try the resolution change. I tested the PS2 on the lumagen with a different cable but will test again tonight with same cable each way.

Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chris P* /forum/post/21557320
> 
> 
> I sent my D2v to Anthem after board failed and everything works upon reconnection except PS3. HDMI connection, worked perfectly prior to repair. I tested the PS3 with my Lumagen XE, worked fine.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have similar problems with PS3? Ideas?
> 
> Thanks



Try RESETTING PS3


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you attach arc files to the thread. I'd like some opinions, after several runs I finally got it were it sounds great, however I'm still lacking a bit in the sub department. With Room EQ disabled and using my spl I am very pleased with the low end. However once I enable arc it seems to lack a bit. I've tried both my JLf113 and my Epik Empire and I get the same result. Is it ok to manual raise the LFE a few db hot or will that completly screw up arc.
> 
> 
> Joe




Attachment 235449 



Attachment 235450 



Attachment 235451 


Here are my settings?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my settings?



Try bumping up the room gain perhaps to 2 from 0 which ARC set then recalculate and upload.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21557516
> 
> Attachment 235449
> 
> 
> 
> Attachment 235450
> 
> 
> 
> Attachment 235451
> 
> 
> Here are my settings?



Your charts look good. My thinking is that ARC didn't apply any Room Gain because of your surrounds. They are dropping off after 180 Hz. What kind of surrounds do you have? What's the spec for your surrounds? I'm wondering if the woofers are damaged on your surrounds or maybe it's a matter of placement. You can do as jayray suggested and change your Room Gain to 2.0; but, keep your eyes on your surrounds when you do that to see if ARC is still able to correct them.


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Your charts look good. My thinking is that ARC didn't apply any Room Gain because of your surrounds. They are dropping off after 180 Hz. What kind of surrounds do you have? What's the spec for your surrounds? I'm wondering if the woofers are damaged on your surrounds or maybe it's a matter of placement. You can do as jayray suggested and change your Room Gain to 2.0; but, keep your eyes on your surrounds when you do that to see if ARC is still able to correct them.



Thank you. Arc did apply room gain of 1.973etc, however I have been playing with the room gain and recalculating as 0 has left me with the best sound. My surrounds are Atlantic Technology 8200e SR's running bi-pole. The recommended as 80hz to 20khz.


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. Arc did apply room gain of 1.973etc, however I have been playing with the room gain and recalculating as 0 has left me with the best sound. My surrounds are Atlantic Technology 8200e SR's running bi-pole. The recommended as 80hz to 20khz.



Also I just wanted to mention that it's placement. My right surround is right next to a door opening than a wall with a huge window.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21557516
> 
> Attachment 235449
> 
> 
> 
> Attachment 235450
> 
> 
> 
> Attachment 235451
> 
> 
> Here are my settings?



Are you making changes with your SPL meter after you did the ARC measurement and then switching ARC on and off? Are you then resetting the speaker volume trims to the values set by ARC when turning ARC on? Can you post your speaker trim values?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21558175
> 
> 
> Thank you. Arc did apply room gain of 1.973etc, however I have been playing with the room gain and recalculating as 0 has left me with the best sound. My surrounds are Atlantic Technology 8200e SR's running bi-pole. The recommended as 80hz to 20khz.




Several questions they may influence your ARC


Did you use a sound level meter to set the levels for all the speakers and your sub before running ARC ? The levels may be low as they should be 75db.


Did you change the cutoffs to 80 hz for your speakers instead of letting ARC set them ? Go into the D2 setup and let us know what ARC has set the crossovers for each speaker.

Did you set your sub freq control to off so it does not influence ARC.

I think your sub response could be higher as it cuts of pretty sharply.


----------



## PlatinumSV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Several questions they may influence your ARC
> 
> 
> Did you use a sound level meter to set the levels for all the speakers and your sub before running ARC ? The levels may be low as they should be 75db.
> 
> 
> Did you change the cutoffs to 80 hz for your speakers instead of letting ARC set them ? Go into the D2 setup and let us know what ARC has set the crossovers for each speaker.
> 
> Did you set your sub freq control to off so it does not influence ARC.
> 
> I think your sub response could be higher as it cuts of pretty sharply.



The sub freq control is off. My mains, center were set to 60 with arc and the rears were 95. I found that at 60 they would clap at hi volumes as they can't handle that freq to well, so I set them all to 80 and recalculated. The sub on arc is what it is 120. In my setup menu the crossovers were all set to 80 by arc including the sub once I uploaded it. Prior to running arc I zero'd everything out, which on an spl ranges between 74-76. On the sub I zero'd out on the Pre-amp and adjusted the subs volume down, so it was reading around 77 on my meter.


----------



## SimonNo10

Well got my D2v back today and just finished hooking everything back up. Simple test first with turning the D2v first then the Oppo and signal lock straight away no issues. Put in a Bluray disc and watched the display on the Anthem and it picked up the DTS HD-MA no problem. So it was the D2v after all not the Oppo or cables etc which is great.


Will test the projector later on today as it's 34deg at the moment so will wait until things cool down before turning the whole system on.


----------



## mookie b

I'm getting a new projector in a few weeks and want to set it and the old one up side by side to compare. Is it as easy as using HDMI 2 out? Not sure if there are limitations to that output..,


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/21560283
> 
> 
> I'm getting a new projector in a few weeks and want to set it and the old one up side by side to compare. Is it as easy as using HDMI 2 out? Not sure if there are limitations to that output..,



So long as you are OK with the same video settings on both outputs (resolution and such) it is just that easy. Note that video on the HDMI 2 output does not include the on screen displays.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

I tested the whole system tonight and no issues. The only thing that is still present is the thin light green line of something (horizontal) on the main D2v's display when turned off. I asked my brother if his shows anything and his is completely black. I tried taking photos with digital camera (without flash) but it doesn't come out. It's not a deal breaker but it's there. I was told by the repairer that there's 2 led lights that are inside near the display inside that maybe be lighting up something. I've never had it before I had issues with the display and mine's been changed twice now. Maybe something with the current builds that is different than the older ones?


I'm going to install 2.13b tomorrow as switching sources (while movie was paused and going into main setup menu on D2v then out again) produced a blue screen which I had to stop the movie and start again to get the picture back. The repair guy put on firmware 2.11.


----------



## jayray

2.13b uploaded but took longer due to the video processor portion of the code. Check the readme file in the firmware folder, there's a warning in there now.

Switching sources went fine and the first movie I ran did so without incident.

Music off of my Naim server also ran fine in 2ch mode.

John


----------



## goatwuss

Hi Guys,


I'm having trouble getting my D2 and ARC to do what I want it to do.


Basically, I want my fronts to be pretty much full range (to 30hz or so), and I want my rears to cross over at about 60hz to the sub.


I have run ARC, and set my target for the front to 30hz, and left the sub at the default 80hz.


When looking at the ARC graphs, it is showing both the fronts, and the sub playing the frequencies from 30-80hz. I was hoping that since I set the front target to 30hz, it would mean that the audio ported to the fronts would NOT play from the sub unless it was below 30hz.


Unfortunately, what seems to be happening is that both the sub and the fronts are playing audio in this range.


I used TrueRTA to play a tone at 50hz, and I was hoping sound would only come out of the front speakers as this is above the cutoff frequencies I set for them, but the SUB is going at full blast it seems at 50hz!


In the speaker settings, the "FRONT XOVER" is set to 30hz. Changing this value up or down does not seem to have any effect on the 50hz tone.


Can anyone direct me how to proceed to accomplish my goal of:


Front speakers - play down to 30hz

Rear Speakers - Play down to 60hz

Sub - Plays front speaker content below 30hz, and rear speaker content below 60hz


Thank you!!!


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/21563875
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> I'm having trouble getting my D2 and ARC to do what I want it to do.
> 
> 
> Basically, I want my fronts to be pretty much full range (to 30hz or so), and I want my rears to cross over at about 60hz to the sub.
> 
> 
> I have run ARC, and set my target for the front to 30hz, and left the sub at the default 80hz.
> 
> 
> When looking at the ARC graphs, it is showing both the fronts, and the sub playing the frequencies from 30-80hz. I was hoping that since I set the front target to 30hz, it would mean that the audio ported to the fronts would NOT play from the sub unless it was below 30hz.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, what seems to be happening is that both the sub and the fronts are playing audio in this range.
> 
> 
> I used TrueRTA to play a tone at 50hz, and I was hoping sound would only come out of the front speakers as this is above the cutoff frequencies I set for them, but the SUB is going at full blast it seems at 50hz!
> 
> 
> In the speaker settings, the "FRONT XOVER" is set to 30hz. Changing this value up or down does not seem to have any effect on the 50hz tone.
> 
> 
> Can anyone direct me how to proceed to accomplish my goal of:
> 
> 
> Front speakers - play down to 30hz
> 
> Rear Speakers - Play down to 60hz
> 
> Sub - Plays front speaker content below 30hz, and rear speaker content below 60hz
> 
> 
> Thank you!!!



You really have to read the manual or at least some website describing what is crossover frequency and cutoff frequency. Crossover and cutoff frequencies are not frequencies at which some speaker stops receiving the signal. It is just some reference point where filters are applied to different speakers to blend them together. There is no such thing as "Play down to ...", you are wishing for impossible, either it is ARC, Audyssey or any other room correction algorithm. And even explanation with filters and their order is too simplified to explain how it actually works.

Also, you should not change anything in processor's menu for speaker crossover frequencies after uploading the ARC settings. If you need to change something do it in ARC application (cutoff frequencies) and then re-upload the new settings but don't change them afterwards in receiver itself, you will break the ARC settings.


This is just one link explaining the crossover:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_crossover


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/21563875
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> I'm having trouble getting my D2 and ARC to do what I want it to do.
> 
> 
> Basically, I want my fronts to be pretty much full range (to 30hz or so), and I want my rears to cross over at about 60hz to the sub.
> 
> 
> I have run ARC, and set my target for the front to 30hz, and left the sub at the default 80hz.
> 
> 
> When looking at the ARC graphs, it is showing both the fronts, and the sub playing the frequencies from 30-80hz. I was hoping that since I set the front target to 30hz, it would mean that the audio ported to the fronts would NOT play from the sub unless it was below 30hz.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, what seems to be happening is that both the sub and the fronts are playing audio in this range.
> 
> 
> I used TrueRTA to play a tone at 50hz, and I was hoping sound would only come out of the front speakers as this is above the cutoff frequencies I set for them, but the SUB is going at full blast it seems at 50hz!
> 
> 
> In the speaker settings, the "FRONT XOVER" is set to 30hz. Changing this value up or down does not seem to have any effect on the 50hz tone.
> 
> 
> Can anyone direct me how to proceed to accomplish my goal of:
> 
> 
> Front speakers - play down to 30hz
> 
> Rear Speakers - Play down to 60hz
> 
> Sub - Plays front speaker content below 30hz, and rear speaker content below 60hz
> 
> 
> Thank you!!!



What dkojenikov said about crossovers and cutoffs is exactly right.


ARC chooses those settings in order to blend the speakers so that they sound the best they can, and to remove as many of problems caused by your environment.


Did you take the time to listen to your system with the room correction that ARC chose?

If not then do yourself a favor and listen to your system with ARC for a few days and see (hear) what you think.


Some minor tweaking of the settings in ARC may help. Some of us make minor changes in the settings ARC chooses, like raising the Max EQ or Room Gain, but many just leave the settings that ARC chooses.


Load ARC at the values that it chose.

Put away your test discs and put on some of your favorite music and movies.

Sit in your primary listening seat, and enjoy.


Tom


----------



## goatwuss

Thanks guys,


I guess I am a bit mental! I want my fronts to handle the bass, I guess ARC wants to pass it to the sub. ARC wins


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/21564415
> 
> 
> Thanks guys,
> 
> 
> I guess I am a bit mental! I want my fronts to handle the bass, I guess ARC wants to pass it to the sub. ARC wins



why do you want the fronts to handle the bass?


by not handling the bass there is more power available for the higher frequencies which gives more headroom and better dynamics


if just for music, then use the other profile that where you have removed the sub (and any other speakers you didn't want)


mark


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/21564415
> 
> 
> Thanks guys,
> 
> 
> I guess I am a bit mental! I want my fronts to handle the bass, I guess ARC wants to pass it to the sub. ARC wins



Any audio system (and speaker) will do that, this is how it is done by everybody, there is simply no another way to do it good. It's a math and physics of our universe (in short, all the functions in our universe are continuous function and infinitely continuously differentiable so everything is smooth). Do you want your car to stop instantly once you pressed the power break? Me too but I understand that it won't happen in this universe (or current technology). And you are complaining that if pedal is called "break", it should stop the car instantly. Get over it. Or if you believe it is Anthem's (or ARC) fault, grab any other receiver at Best Buy and measure its output. You will get the same result. Just read the article about audio filters on how to blend two sources into one.

Mathematically speaking what you want is to have not a second order filter at cross point but much more higher order filter to do it, it is possible but amount of problems with the sound at cross point will be exponentially more. Your front speakers can handle low frequencies well enough but on lower levels. Subwoofer can handle higher frequencies too but also on lower levels (lower than your listening level). Here where high and low pass filters work together to blend output from two speakers into one sound stream. Just look at the graph and you will see how it works. You can't just stop some frequencies at one speaker and continue at another with good results. Otherwise everybody would be doing it already.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I used TrueRTA to play a tone at 50hz, and I was hoping sound would only come out of the front speakers as this is above the cutoff frequencies I set for them, but the SUB is going at full blast it seems at 50hz!



I'm not familiar with TrueRTA - what channel were you playing the test tone on? You will still get bass above 30hz if it is in the LFE channel. If the front channels then you should not have heard much in the sub and something is misconfigured.


As others have said any fiddling with the crossovers should ultimately be done in ARC Software, but if you want to quickly mess around with them in the Anthem for purpose of experimenting just turn off ARC Room EQ.


----------



## PlatinumSV

Is there a setting on the D2's video processor that is similar to Game mode to reduce online gaming lag?


----------



## dschamis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/21564866
> 
> 
> why do you want the fronts to handle the bass?
> 
> 
> by not handling the bass there is more power available for the higher frequencies which gives more headroom and better dynamics
> 
> 
> if just for music, then use the other profile that where you have removed the sub (and any other speakers you didn't want)
> 
> 
> mark



In Music mode I disable the sub - I feel like it just sounds better for normal 2-channel music - do you guys disagree with that theory?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/21565491
> 
> 
> In Music mode I disable the sub - I feel like it just sounds better for normal 2-channel music - do you guys disagree with that theory?



No.

If you have speakers capable of going low enough to handle your music, and goatwuss's speakers certainly fit in that catagory, then it makes sense to set up separate movie and music configurations in ARC.


If you set up a movie configuration (with all your speakers and sub) and a music configuration (without sub) you can a/b test the difference by changing your choice for speaker configuration from 'music' to 'movie' in your source setup menu. Then you can be the judge.


I have Paradigm S2's for my fronts, and when I tested my music using the Black Key's Brothers cd, I prefered using my sub in the mix. I imagine if I had the S8's I very well might prefer just running my fronts at full range for music.


These are matters of personal choice, and ARC lets you make those choices.

Testing these, and other options, is what tweaking is all about.









Fell free to test and tweak to your hearts desire, and let your ears (and not any one on this thread) make your decision for you.


Tom


----------



## goatwuss

Thanks for the good discussion guys.


Based on the great feedback - what I'll do is use the Music mode to be front speakers only w/ no sub. (FYI my main audio source is my turntable, Michell Orbe)


When I tried that before, ARC was rolling off my speakers way too high, like at 60hz or something. To fix this, would I just set the cut-off frequency in ARC to 25hz or something?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/21566017
> 
> 
> Thanks for the good discussion guys.
> 
> 
> Based on the great feedback - what I'll do is use the Music mode to be front speakers only w/ no sub. (FYI my main audio source is my turntable, Michell Orbe)
> 
> 
> When I tried that before, ARC was rolling off my speakers way too high, like at 60hz or something. To fix this, would I just set the cut-off frequency in ARC to 25hz or something?



Assuming that your turntable is connected via analog (either balanced or unbalanced) you can test what the full range setting will do by going into source setup and changing the turntables setting from 'AnalogDSP' (this setting is necessary to use ARC) to 'Analog'. In 'Analog' the anthem pre/pro will basically only control volume-- there will be no bass management or room correction--but you will be able to evaluate what your fronts will handle bass-wise. But, again, there will be no room correction, so keep that in mind.


In ARC you can set your fronts to 'full range' and then set to 'f' for 'flat' in the advanced menu. I have never used this setting, so someone who has used it can advise you better.


Please note that even if your fronts can handle the full range it doesn't necessarally mean that you should use it. You may find that you prefer having your sub included in your music configuration.

Take the time to compare the different configurations and then choose what you prefer.


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> In Music mode I disable the sub - I feel like it just sounds better for normal 2-channel music - do you guys disagree with that theory?



That's how I do it and it sounds great. My Studio 100s do just fine without a sub for Music. They are set to Flat.

John


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/21566017
> 
> 
> Thanks for the good discussion guys.
> 
> 
> Based on the great feedback - what I'll do is use the Music mode to be front speakers only w/ no sub. (FYI my main audio source is my turntable, Michell Orbe)
> 
> 
> When I tried that before, ARC was rolling off my speakers way too high, like at 60hz or something. To fix this, would I just set the cut-off frequency in ARC to 25hz or something?



You know that 25Hz is the roll-off frequency for speakers measured in unechoic chamber. You room is no unechoic so the roll-off measured by ARC could actually be much higher (or lower as in my case) than values specified. It is better to start with finding the best placement for your speakers using either ARC's quick measure function or you can use any other software you have like HOLM, REW, etc. Once the best placement is found, run ARC and check automatically identified values. Of course you can change automatically identified values in ARC software if you like them better (like switching off subwoofer for music). But once you uploaded the values to a processor, try not to change anything if you don't know exactly how it is going to influence the results.


----------



## bekindrewind

Hi guys,


I just purchased a Sharp Elite PRO-70X5FD LED LCD TV. It has the Netflix app. When I click on Netflix, the Elite will display the video, but it will not provide sound thru the HDMI cable. I am able to get sound thru the speakers in the Elite, if I turn on the internal speakers.


Here's what the Elite manual says:


AUDIO RETURN CHANNEL

This function allows you to listen to the TV audio via audio equipment without using an optical fiber cable, which conventionally is required.


REQUIREMENTS FOR USING AN ARC-COMPATILBE AV AMPLIFIER:

ARC-compatible AV amplifier connected to the ARC-compatible HDMI terminal (HDMI 1). (Refer to the operation manual of the ARC-compatible equipment for details.)

Use of an ARC-compatible cable.

AUTO:You can listen to the TV audio with ARC-compatible audio equipment.

OFF: This fuction does not work.


NOTE:

If the TV audio cannot be output from the AV amplifier even after making the necessary setting, connect the TV to the AV amplifier with an optical fiber cable and select "off".


So guys, am I missing something? I believe I have the setting right on the Elite (any Sharp Elite owners out here?). I've talked to Elite on the phone and she said it most likely is the receiver. To make sure the HDMI cable is qualified, I bought a AUVIO cable from Radio Shack that says: Auvio cables incorporate HDMI Ethernet channel, Audio Return Channel, 3D and 4K technology.


If I'm watching Directv and click on Netflix, the Elite screen will now show Netflix, but the sound will continue to be what's on Directv.


Does the D2v acknowledge ARC - Audio Return Channel?


I have, v2.10 update. I believe that is the most current?


Thoughts?


----------



## dkojevnikov

Another question for connoisseurs. We were told that setting and changing the speaker distance does not have influence on ARC. Is changing subwoofer phase have an influence on ARC? Can I change subwoofer phase after I uploaded ARC without messing with its settings?


I was measuring individual speakers and different sets of speakers (like left only, right only, left+subwofer, right+subwoofer, left+right+subwoofer) with "HOLM Impulse" software and my calibrated microphone and I see quite different response curves for sets of speakers when changing their distance and subwoofer phase and I also see quite a different actual room gain when playing the sweep through individual speakers or set of speakers (measured room gain is almost 2x larger with left+right speakers comparing to just left speaker).


Does it mean ARC does not use phase and delay information when calculating filters (thus it does not correct issues when for example left and subwoofer can cancel each other at some frequencies) or it is still better to set distance and phase before doing ARC and it will be using the measured phase information for correction? Does ARC correct frequencies only and does not care about phase? Just left speaker and subwoofer can be pretty well equalized independently but when playing the actual music through left speaker + subwoofer, phase differences can spoil this pretty easy and it worries me that I see exactly this behavior on my graphs. As I remember, Audyssey tries to actually blend all the speakers together and not just equalize individual speakers separately so it uses the logical distance and phase information when calculating the acoustic bubble.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bekindrewind* /forum/post/21567898
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> I just purchased a Sharp Elite PRO-70X5FD LED LCD TV. It has the Netflix app. When I click on Netflix, the Elite will display the video, but it will not provide sound thru the HDMI cable. I am able to get sound thru the speakers in the Elite, if I turn on the internal speakers.
> 
> 
> Here's what the Elite manual says:
> 
> 
> AUDIO RETURN CHANNEL
> 
> This function allows you to listen to the TV audio via audio equipment without using an optical fiber cable, which conventionally is required.
> 
> 
> REQUIREMENTS FOR USING AN ARC-COMPATILBE AV AMPLIFIER:
> 
> ARC-compatible AV amplifier connected to the ARC-compatible HDMI terminal (HDMI 1). (Refer to the operation manual of the ARC-compatible equipment for details.)
> 
> Use of an ARC-compatible cable.
> 
> AUTO:You can listen to the TV audio with ARC-compatible audio equipment.
> 
> OFF: This fuction does not work.
> 
> 
> NOTE:
> 
> If the TV audio cannot be output from the AV amplifier even after making the necessary setting, connect the TV to the AV amplifier with an optical fiber cable and select "off".
> 
> 
> So guys, am I missing something? I believe I have the setting right on the Elite (any Sharp Elite owners out here?). I've talked to Elite on the phone and she said it most likely is the receiver. To make sure the HDMI cable is qualified, I bought a AUVIO cable from Radio Shack that says: Auvio cables incorporate HDMI Ethernet channel, Audio Return Channel, 3D and 4K technology.
> 
> 
> If I'm watching Directv and click on Netflix, the Elite screen will now show Netflix, but the sound will continue to be what's on Directv.
> 
> 
> Does the D2v acknowledge ARC - Audio Return Channel?
> 
> 
> I have, v2.10 update. I believe that is the most current?
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



The next video board HW upgrade(HDMI 1-4) for the AVM50v and D2v will support 3D and so the ARC feature as well. Current units don't support 3D. features.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21568064
> 
> 
> Another question for connoisseurs. We were told that setting and changing the speaker distance does not have influence on ARC. Is changing subwoofer phase have an influence on ARC? Can I change subwoofer phase after I uploaded ARC without messing with its settings?
> 
> 
> I was measuring individual speakers and different sets of speakers (like left only, right only, left+subwofer, right+subwoofer, left+right+subwoofer) with "HOLM Impulse" software and my calibrated microphone and I see quite different response curves for sets of speakers when changing their distance and subwoofer phase and I also see quite a different actual room gain when playing the sweep through individual speakers or set of speakers (measured room gain is almost 2x larger with left+right speakers comparing to just left speaker).
> 
> 
> Does it mean ARC does not use phase and delay information when calculating filters (thus it does not correct issues when for example left and subwoofer can cancel each other at some frequencies) or it is still better to set distance and phase before doing ARC and it will be using the measured phase information for correction? Does ARC correct frequencies only and does not care about phase? Just left speaker and subwoofer can be pretty well equalized independently but when playing the actual music through left speaker + subwoofer, phase differences can spoil this pretty easy and it worries me that I see exactly this behavior on my graphs. As I remember, Audyssey tries to actually blend all the speakers together and not just equalize individual speakers separately so it uses the logical distance and phase information when calculating the acoustic bubble.



I belueve such detailed technical info is poart of the IP that anthem likes to keep close to the vest. They are rather cagey in detailing the inner works of the ARC algorithm, which is understandable. You might try their tech support line for further details. If they spill the beans, please let us know







.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21568526
> 
> 
> I belueve such detailed technical info is poart of the IP that anthem likes to keep close to the vest. They are rather cagey in detailing the inner works of the ARC algorithm, which is understandable. You might try their tech support line for further details. If they spill the beans, please let us know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



There is a big difference between commercial secret and explaining how an instrument should be used. It is unclear from the manual if setting speaker difference and phase should be done before ARC. For example, Audyssey does not make a secret that everything should be set before measurements and that distances measured are logical distances, not physical. For example, Audyssey always identified my subwoofer about 2 meters farther than it was physically located probably due to delays in subwoofer's amplifier. In case of ARC I cannot identify this logical distance and it really looks like Anthem is not doing any correction in time domain so setting at least main speakers in phase with subwoofer is crucial otherwise they will be cancelling each others and this is what I see by measuring my response curve and varying distance and phase. Right now I just found the correction to my subwoofer distance where I have stronger combined signal (main + subwoofer) with no significant dips for frequencies from 50Hz to 90 Hz (crossover is 60Hz).


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21568626
> 
> 
> There is a big difference between commercial secret and explaining how an instrument should be used. It is unclear from the manual if setting speaker difference and phase should be done before ARC. For example, Audyssey does not make a secret that everything should be set before measurements and that distances measured are logical distances, not physical. For example, Audyssey always identified my subwoofer about 2 meters farther than it was physically located probably due to delays in subwoofer's amplifier. In case of ARC I cannot identify this logical distance and it really looks like Anthem is not doing any correction in time domain so setting at least main speakers in phase with subwoofer is crucial otherwise they will be cancelling each others and this is what I see by measuring my response curve and varying distance and phase. Right now I just found the correction to my subwoofer distance where I have stronger combined signal (main + subwoofer) with no significant dips for frequencies from 50Hz to 90 Hz (crossover is 60Hz).



In my case, i perform the level (@75dB) and phase alignment between my dual subs and afterwards with the mains before ARC (see the link beneath my signature). This way, ARC see's the best frequency response before it optimizes its frequency further for the room. This is a critical step to do if you are to extract the most performance out of your system. For example, SW phase alignment evens out the in-room frequency response to compensate for peaks and nulls and other anomalies caused by the listening room. This makes the subs 'play' as one unit. Afterwards, i perform another phase alignment (this time within ARC by varing SW distance) to blend the subs to the mains around the crossover regions (60Hz - 100Hz). I use either the left or right speaker for this final alignment. The results are definately worth it for you hear your entire system play as one unit and no discontinuity is heard between the mains and the subs. Transitions around the crossover regions are very smooth indeed, IMO.


As for speaker distances (which as you know are physical distances), they can be set before or after ARC. Hope this helps...


David


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21568064
> 
> 
> ............ Is changing subwoofer phase have an influence on ARC? Can I change subwoofer phase after I uploaded ARC without messing with its settings?..........



This question has been dealt with extensively by our good friend Bob P. in the recent past a number of times.


Briefly, ARC listens to only one speaker at a time during the setup. As such, it does not deal with distance and phase.


You have to manually set the speaker distances and phase either before or after running/uploading ARC.


Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21568503
> 
> 
> The next video board HW upgrade(HDMI 1-4) for the AVM50v and D2v will support 3D and so the ARC feature as well. Current units don't support 3D. features.



I'll be very surprised if the upcoming 3D "pass through" upgrade also adds support for additional optional features from the HDMI V1.4 spec such as Audio Return Channel or Ethernet over HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21568064
> 
> 
> Another question for connoisseurs. We were told that setting and changing the speaker distance does not have influence on ARC. Is changing subwoofer phase have an influence on ARC? Can I change subwoofer phase after I uploaded ARC without messing with its settings?
> 
> 
> I was measuring individual speakers and different sets of speakers (like left only, right only, left+subwofer, right+subwoofer, left+right+subwoofer) with "HOLM Impulse" software and my calibrated microphone and I see quite different response curves for sets of speakers when changing their distance and subwoofer phase and I also see quite a different actual room gain when playing the sweep through individual speakers or set of speakers (measured room gain is almost 2x larger with left+right speakers comparing to just left speaker).
> 
> 
> Does it mean ARC does not use phase and delay information when calculating filters (thus it does not correct issues when for example left and subwoofer can cancel each other at some frequencies) or it is still better to set distance and phase before doing ARC and it will be using the measured phase information for correction? Does ARC correct frequencies only and does not care about phase? Just left speaker and subwoofer can be pretty well equalized independently but when playing the actual music through left speaker + subwoofer, phase differences can spoil this pretty easy and it worries me that I see exactly this behavior on my graphs. As I remember, Audyssey tries to actually blend all the speakers together and not just equalize individual speakers separately so it uses the logical distance and phase information when calculating the acoustic bubble.



With ARC you must manually set the speaker distances and (after that) the subwoofer phase.


If you have only one subwoofer, you can do this before or after doing your ARC setup. Since ARC only listens to one output channel at a time it does not hear changes due to distance or sub phase settings.


But if you have MORE than one subwoofer, then you must set the speaker distances for all speakers and then the subwoofer phase for each subwoofer BEFORE you run ARC. This is because ARC plays your set of subs together, and phase adjustments alter the combined sub output. Distances must be set first since phase is a function of distance. When setting phase, it is helpful to have the speakers and subs roughly volume balanced to make it easier to hear the effect of the adjustment, so when doing this preliminary setup due to multiple subs, it is a good idea to manually adjust the volume trims with the built-in test tones and an SPL meter prior to doing your phase adjustment. ARC will replace your rough trim settings with precise settings when you do your ARC setup. Power one sub at a time when adjusting its phase control for best match with the mains (usually using the Left Front speaker as the surrogate).


Unless you move the speakers, this distance/phase setup is something you only have to do once -- not each time you run ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlatinumSV* /forum/post/21565423
> 
> 
> Is there a setting on the D2's video processor that is similar to Game mode to reduce online gaming lag?



There is not


The video processing delay in the D2 and D2v is less than one frame time, but it is not 0, and it can not be reduced by any user settings.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis* /forum/post/21565491
> 
> 
> In Music mode I disable the sub - I feel like it just sounds better for normal 2-channel music - do you guys disagree with that theory?



There is no pat answer to this. In my setup, I selected a very accurate ("musical") sub and prefer a setup where the sub supports the bottom end of the LF/RF speakers. As a rule of thumb, there's a tradeoff in subs between max bass output volume and accuracy. That goes into your choice of sub of course. Some subs actually let you adjust this bias.


"Full range" main speakers that test well at low frequencies often will *NOT* be able to do that well when playing at higher bass volumes. If your mains don't have powered woofers, they likely fall into this class. For such speakers, even though they Measure well in bass, it is often better to let a subwoofer handle the low end ANYWAY. Whether this is important in your setup depends on the content you are playing and the volumes you use. Most music doesn't go all that deep into bass, but there are notable exceptions (e.g., pipe organ).


Trust your ears.

--Bob


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21568937
> 
> 
> In my case, i perform the level (@75dB) and phase alignment between my dual subs and afterwards with the mains before ARC (see the link beneath my signature). This way, ARC see's the best frequency response before it optimizes its frequency further for the room. This is a critical step to do if you are to extract the most performance out of your system. For example, SW phase alignment evens out the in-room frequency response to compensate for peaks and nulls and other anomalies caused by the listening room. This makes the subs 'play' as one unit. Afterwards, i perform another phase alignment (this time within ARC by varing SW distance) to blend the subs to the mains around the crossover regions (60Hz - 100Hz). I use either the left or right speaker for this final alignment. The results are definately worth it for you hear your entire system play as one unit and no discontinuity is heard between the mains and the subs. Transitions around the crossover regions are very smooth indeed, IMO.
> 
> 
> As for speaker distances (which as you know are physical distances), they can be set before or after ARC. Hope this helps...
> 
> 
> David



Thank you David. Somehow after looking at my response curves (with left+sub and right+sub on) through HOLM I noticed that if I switch off my sub, response curves are perfect, as soon as I switch it on, response curves are way out of shape from 40Hz to 150Hz. I tried to vary the phase and noticed that curve changes dramatically. Then I looked at graphs a little bit closer and together with my empirical data accumulated for different subwoofer phases I concluded that I needed to move my subwoofer logical distance about 1.8 meters (6 feet) farther. I did not believe my eyes when I did my measurements again. All three (left+sub), (right_sub), (center+sub) curves are smooth from 20Hz to 150Hz and looked similar. They are a bit scattered afterwards but the wavelength is much shorter there and those problems are not subwoofer-related. But things are so much improved around the crossover point now.

I am going to use your method to try to improve my results even further. I wish I read this in anthem's manual or they could include this kind of test into their processor as it is pretty simple to implement, just play the signal through pairs of speakers.


----------



## MC485

Hi, everyone. I'm owner of MRX300 which used for pre-amp function that I have 5 ch power amp. Is 50v very huge difference with MRX300 on sound and surround performance? Is it worth to upgrade as price is quite expensive...


Thanks~


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MC485* /forum/post/21569881
> 
> 
> Hi, everyone. I'm owner of MRX300 which used for pre-amp function that I have 5 ch power amp. Is 50v very huge difference with MRX300 on sound and surround performance? Is it worth to upgrade as price is quite expensive...
> 
> 
> Thanks~



I really have my doubts that you will notice any difference. Minor, probably yes, but I have my doubts even here. Power amplifiers and speakers as well as different algorithms of room normalization are having the most effect on final sound quality. In you case you will get a little bit cleaner output from dedicated processor but difference in DAC should not give any perceivable difference between MRX300 and 50v, especially for movies. If you go up to d2v, you may get improved sound for music as d2v is using different DACs and other components, and have separate upscaler to 192KHz/24 bit for all its inputs. ARC should be more advanced on 50v/d2v due to faster DSP processors but the final difference may be barely perceivable. I got 50v because I wanted a pure AV processor with ARC. I was considering to go with MRX-300 as a pre/pro first too. Having 50v looked for me as a "cleaner" solution so I just got one.


I would say that if you really want Anthem (and not another system like Cary Audio Cinema 12 or Classe SSP-800) and can afford 50v, get 50v instead of MRX-300. But don't base you decision on difference in sound, you may not hear any.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *goatwuss* /forum/post/21566017
> 
> 
> Thanks for the good discussion guys.
> 
> 
> Based on the great feedback - what I'll do is use the Music mode to be front speakers only w/ no sub. (FYI my main audio source is my turntable, Michell Orbe)
> 
> 
> When I tried that before, ARC was rolling off my speakers way too high, like at 60hz or something. To fix this, would I just set the cut-off frequency in ARC to 25hz or something?



You want to disable the crossover and typically there is a "crossover" setting like LARGE or FULL or FLAT for that.


But what about my questions ?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21569269
> 
> 
> I'll be very surprised if the upcoming 3D "pass through" upgrade also adds support for additional optional features from the HDMI V1.4 spec such as Audio Return Channel or Ethernet over HDMI.
> 
> --Bob



Well Bob ... *since you are beta testing the new HW upgrade board*







, you can definately answer the question. Does it support ARC or Ethernet over HDMI?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21569851
> 
> 
> Thank you David. Somehow after looking at my response curves (with left+sub and right+sub on) through HOLM I noticed that if I switch off my sub, response curves are perfect, as soon as I switch it on, response curves are way out of shape from 40Hz to 150Hz. I tried to vary the phase and noticed that curve changes dramatically. Then I looked at graphs a little bit closer and together with my empirical data accumulated for different subwoofer phases I concluded that I needed to move my subwoofer logical distance about 1.8 meters (6 feet) farther. I did not believe my eyes when I did my measurements again. All three (left+sub), (right_sub), (center+sub) curves are smooth from 20Hz to 150Hz and looked similar. They are a bit scattered afterwards but the wavelength is much shorter there and those problems are not subwoofer-related. But things are so much improved around the crossover point now.
> 
> I am going to use your method to try to improve my results even further. I wish I read this in anthem's manual or they could include this kind of test into their processor as it is pretty simple to implement, just play the signal through pairs of speakers.



Actually dk, I believe you have succeeded in spades. Assuming your sub is optimally located in your room (within practical limits ofcourse), by adjusting the SW phase and fine tuning the logical distance to even out the room FR is what my method (as listed in my signature) is all about. You just happen to have a fancier tool to help you get there


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Well Bob ... since you are beta testing the new HW upgrade board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , you can definately answer the question. Does it support ARC or Ethernet over HDMI?



I'm not really supposed to talk about it. In any event I don't have any devices with Audio Return Channel output to test against it. I've seen nothing in Setup to indicate audio back from the display is an option.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bekindrewind* /forum/post/21567898
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> I just purchased a Sharp Elite PRO-70X5FD LED LCD TV. It has the Netflix app. When I click on Netflix, the Elite will display the video, but it will not provide sound thru the HDMI cable. I am able to get sound thru the speakers in the Elite, if I turn on the internal speakers.
> 
> 
> Here's what the Elite manual says:
> 
> 
> AUDIO RETURN CHANNEL
> 
> This function allows you to listen to the TV audio via audio equipment without using an optical fiber cable, which conventionally is required.
> 
> 
> REQUIREMENTS FOR USING AN ARC-COMPATILBE AV AMPLIFIER:
> 
> ARC-compatible AV amplifier connected to the ARC-compatible HDMI terminal (HDMI 1). (Refer to the operation manual of the ARC-compatible equipment for details.)
> 
> Use of an ARC-compatible cable.
> 
> AUTO:You can listen to the TV audio with ARC-compatible audio equipment.
> 
> OFF: This fuction does not work.
> 
> 
> NOTE:
> 
> If the TV audio cannot be output from the AV amplifier even after making the necessary setting, connect the TV to the AV amplifier with an optical fiber cable and select "off".
> 
> 
> So guys, am I missing something? I believe I have the setting right on the Elite (any Sharp Elite owners out here?). I've talked to Elite on the phone and she said it most likely is the receiver. To make sure the HDMI cable is qualified, I bought a AUVIO cable from Radio Shack that says: Auvio cables incorporate HDMI Ethernet channel, Audio Return Channel, 3D and 4K technology.
> 
> 
> If I'm watching Directv and click on Netflix, the Elite screen will now show Netflix, but the sound will continue to be what's on Directv.
> 
> 
> Does the D2v acknowledge ARC - Audio Return Channel?
> 
> 
> I have, v2.10 update. I believe that is the most current?
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



Yes, I have both the 70inch Elite and the D2V. They have been working great together since October. The D2V *WILL NOT* be supporting Audio Return Channel in the new HDMI upgrade board, I have confirmed that. So turn that off on the Elite and forget about it, it will not be working, most likely ever. Now then, take a deep breath and realize it's not that big of a deal anyway. What I've done to get audio out of my Elite for the rare times that I care to (Skype perhaps), I connected a very long optical audio cable back to the D2V and created a "virtual" input on the D2V called "TV" (as opposed to Cable or Satellite, which are for other things in my setup). I rarely use this input, but the key for it was to then map the right activities on my Universal Remote so that when I say "Watch Skype" on my remote, the Elite changes to the internal Skype app, the D2V changes the input to "TV", and various other things happen. The key as always for this kind of thing is in the programming of a nice remote like the URC's or the Harmony's etc. Without them, it would be a royal mess. I never use the Elite's other native apps and such (netflix et al.), because I prefer to use my Oppo 95 for all streaming "app" usage (netflix, vudu, pandora, etc. etc.).


Hope that helps,

-Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21574222
> 
> 
> I'm not really supposed to talk about it. In any event I don't have any devices with Audio Return Channel output to test against it. I've seen nothing in Setup to indicate audio back from the display is an option.
> 
> --Bob



Correct. Audio Return Channel will NOT be supported in the new HDMI board. Confirmed with Nick.


----------



## lk100

$500 seems a bit steep for a small board that does nothing but pass through the signal.


----------



## rovingtravler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100* /forum/post/21576385
> 
> 
> $500 seems a bit steep for a small board that does nothing but pass through the signal.



Yep. You could buy an Oppo Digital BDP-93 for that and problem solved!


Actually I think the reatil is $800... can anyone comment?


----------



## Milwaukeesk

I've researched and searched the posts here and learned a lot about adding multiple subs and using ARC. The one area that I couldn't find info on was regarding the use of adding in a Mid bass module (sub) as a second sub and how to configure it appropriately considering the shortcomings of ARC with the use of a second sub and some of the complexities on configuring.


Any thoughts on how to go about integrating the midbass module successfully along with using ARC? Any thoughts on mid bass modules in general?


BTW- I've done several searches and couldn't find anything on this topic...that said, if this was covered before I apologize. Only so much digging you can do with 1200 pages of content










Thank you in advance


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/21576781
> 
> 
> I've researched and searched the posts here and learned a lot about adding multiple subs and using ARC. The one area that I couldn't find info on was regarding the use of adding in a Mid bass module (sub) as a second sub and how to configure it appropriately considering the shortcomings of ARC with the use of a second sub and some of the complexities on configuring.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on how to go about integrating the midbass module successfully along with using ARC? Any thoughts on mid bass modules in general?
> 
> 
> BTW- I've done several searches and couldn't find anything on this topic...that said, if this was covered before I apologize. Only so much digging you can do with 1200 pages of content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you in advance



Plenty of information in the subwoofer section under HSU subs


----------



## AVfile

I thought the hissing audio on SACD would be easy for Anthem to reproduce.


Can someone with a 50v firmware 2.13b please try an 88.2 or 176.4 kHz PCM source and tell me if you hear hissing noise?


----------



## Milwaukeesk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21577237
> 
> 
> Plenty of information in the subwoofer section under HSU subs



Thanks. I've looked there. I guess what I was hoping for was a little bit more guidance with regard to what to look for when using ARC...


----------



## stanger89

Anyone ever seen a red "haze" with their 50V/D2V? Every once in a while, most often after changing sources I'll see what I can only describe as a red haze over parts of the picture?


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/21576560
> 
> 
> Yep. You could buy an Oppo Digital BDP-93 for that and problem solved!
> 
> 
> Actually I think the reatil is $800... can anyone comment?



Is there any advantage to going through the processor for 3d as opposed to using dual outs from a blu ray player? I would think with blu ray you may as well use an oppo as opposed to getting the upgrade done....just need an extra HDMI run to the display, right?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milwaukeesk* /forum/post/21577300
> 
> 
> Thanks. I've looked there. I guess what I was hoping for was a little bit more guidance with regard to what to look for when using ARC...



I almost bought two of these and still might to go with my Sub 2, they are very helpfull and informative there. I am sure I was instructed on how to set them up but can't remember the steps exactly. Try e-mailing Pete, he should be able to answer your question..........then please share.


John


[email protected]


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any advantage to going through the processor for 3d as opposed to using dual outs from a blu ray player? I would think with blu ray you may as well use an oppo as opposed to getting the upgrade done....just need an extra HDMI run to the display, right?



No advantage so do as you said.

John


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/21577965
> 
> 
> Is there any advantage to going through the processor for 3d as opposed to using dual outs from a blu ray player? I would think with blu ray you may as well use an oppo as opposed to getting the upgrade done....just need an extra HDMI run to the display, right?



You could use a HDMI switch prior to the run to the projector to eliminate the need for a second long run, then all you need to do is switch it instead of switching in the PJ.


Cheers


----------



## bekindrewind

Many many pages on this forum. Is there a quick way to do a topic search?


Question about Dolby volume, for which I could not find an explaination in the manual.


What is the difference between: off, on and cinema?

Dolby vol level: off, low, 1-9 and high?

Half mode and on?


Thank you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bekindrewind* /forum/post/21579874
> 
> 
> Many many pages on this forum. Is there a quick way to do a topic search?
> 
> 
> Question about Dolby volume, for which I could not find an explaination in the manual.
> 
> 
> What is the difference between: off, on and cinema?
> 
> Dolby vol level: off, low, 1-9 and high?
> 
> Half mode and on?
> 
> 
> Thank you.



OFF = No Dolby Volume Processing

ON = Normal Dolby Volume Processing

Cinema = Normal Dolby Volume Processing PLUS a roughly +10dB volume boost (taking typical home theater audio calibration at 75dB and making it into the 85dB used in commercial movie theaters -- i.e., it just gets louder.)


Dolby Volume Level is a setting controlling how aggressively Dolby Volume Processing, when set to ON, attempts to raise quieter passages to keep everything at the same volume as louder passages. I.e., adjust your Main Volume so that louder passages play at a comfortable level and you'll still be able to hear quieter passages. The higher the number, the stronger the effect. OFF or low number choices tend to be preferable. There is a slight lag when content volume changes (either direction) before the effect adjusts for that, and with higher numbers this constant changing of the adjustment will become too noticeable.


In addition to the choice of doing content volume based adjustments, Dolby Volume also does FREQUENCY based adjustments of volume when Dolby Volume is ON -- i.e., the volume adjustment varies according to the frequencies present in the content. The idea is to help out with frequencies that are harder to hear when you are playing quiet content with a low Main Volume setting. Think of it as a fancy "Loudness setting" adjustment curve except that it functions by constantly re-analyzing the content. The degree to which it does that adjustment can not be controlled -- it is simply either ON or OFF according to the first Dolby Volume setting. However Half Mode ON turns OFF this frequency-based adjustment whenever the combination of content volume and your Main Volume setting is high enough that it isn't really needed. I.e., it only works for the "lower half" of the combined content+Main volume range. Half Mode ON is strongly recommended whenever you use Dolby Volume ON for any Source.


Dolby Volume OFF altogether is strongly recommended whenever you are doing critical, audiophile listening, regardless of Source type or audio format. With Dolby Volume OFF, the Level and Half Mode settings are ignored. Keep in mind that these settings are remembered separately for each Setup > Source Setup definition. There is also a Short Cut on the remote -- press and hold the "0" button -- for viewing the main Dolby volume setting in effect at the moment and changing it, on the fly, using the Up/Down arrows.


-----------------------------------


If you look just above the first post on any page while viewing this thread, you'll find a gray bar with a Search This Thread option on the right hand side.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone ever seen a red "haze" with their 50V/D2V? Every once in a while, most often after changing sources I'll see what I can only describe as a red haze over parts of the picture?



That would be a new one for me but I've had my share of switching glitches. Do you have any HDMI video settings in the source or receiver set to AUTO? If you choose fixed settings for things like RGB/YCbCr format, deep color bit depth, resolution, frame rate, etc. it will make the HDMI handshake go smoother.


----------



## mookie b

FWIW, I don't like Anthem's Dolby volume implementation. I don't use it on any source. I had an Arcam AVR600 before the Anthem, and Arcam's Dolby Volume is definitely different for some reason. I loved it on that machine and used it for everything, definitely not on the Anthem.


P.S. I love my Anthem and the Arcam just pissed me off


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21580244
> 
> 
> That would be a new one for me but I've had my share of switching glitches. Do you have any HDMI video settings in the source or receiver set to AUTO? If you choose fixed settings for things like RGB/YCbCr format, deep color bit depth, resolution, frame rate, etc. it will make the HDMI handshake go smoother.




Yeah, it's really hard to explain what it actually is (and since I don't know when it will happen it's hard to get a picture), but it's almost like anything full black is displayed as red instead, and it doesn't happen only after a source switch, but sometimes it will just randomly happen in the middle of something.


I was looking through the manual, is it possible to force colorspace for an input on the 50V, it looks like only on the output. I'll have to dig and see if I can force it on my source. Suppose I could try a different HDMI cable too.


----------



## nycjazz

s


----------



## Texas steve

?????????????????????????:d



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21584070
> 
> 
> s


----------



## nycjazz

Hi, just got my used amp to match my 50V. I have connected the 50V since Dec '11 to my TV with great audio and video. I also had it checked out by Anthem as well, so I don't believe it is the unit. I am new to the AV world and Anthem is my first real processor so I wonder if there's a setting Im missing. Since I am already getting audio and video through my TV, I took the Mcintosh MC205 and connected from the 50V first via balanced outputs (i checked that the setting on the MC205 was on 8 ohms to drive my Reference Kef 205/2s). When turned everything back on, I had to crank it it to about -10 DB to hear faintly the content. When I cranked it up to +10, I could still hear the content, but also everything crackled and popped. I check the output volume (volume path name) and it is set to -35 to +10. I tested the tone and I could barely hear them (though not crackling and popping) The needles on the amp showed no activity unless the crackling and the popping came on (about 20 watts). Level Calibration is all 0 DB.


Any help would be appreciated. Of course, the MC205 could be problem, but I wanted to check with the group in case anyone has had an issue with this combination 50v And MC205 or any other insights. Am I missing a setting? It is quite a lift to get this thing out my basement. Thanks


----------



## nycjazz

Hi, just got my amp to match my 50V. I have connected the 50V since Dec '11 to my TV with great audio and video. I also had it checked out by Anthem as well, so I don't believe it is the unit, update 2.11 installed by anthem (they erased the previous 2.12, don't know why) . I am new to the AV world and Anthem is my first real processor so I wonder if there's a setting Im missing. Since I am already getting audio and video through my TV, I took the Mcintosh MC205 and connected from the 50V first via balanced outputs (i checked that the setting on the MC205 was on 8 ohms to drive my Reference Kef 205/2s). When turned everything back on, I had to crank it it to about -10 DB to hear faintly the content. When I cranked it up to +10, I could still hear the content, but also everything crackled and popped. I check the output volume (volume path name) and it is set to -35 to +10. I tested the tone and I could barely hear them (though not crackling and popping) The needles on the amp showed no activity unless the crackling and the popping came on (about 20 watts). Level Calibration is all 0 DB. Same thing when connecting to RCA (i tested all combination of 5 channels).


Any help would be appreciated. The MC205 could be problem, but I wanted to check with the group in case anyone has had an issue with this combination 50v And MC205 or any other insights, the amp is a backbreaker. Am i missing a setting? Thanks


----------



## nycjazz

maybe that's where all my problems are coming from!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21584185
> 
> 
> Hi, just got my amp to match my 50V. I have connected the 50V since Dec '11 to my TV with great audio and video. I also had it checked out by Anthem as well, so I don't believe it is the unit, update 2.11 installed by anthem (they erased the previous 2.12, don't know why…) . I am new to the AV world and Anthem is my first real processor so I wonder if there's a setting Im missing. Since I am already getting audio and video through my TV, I took the Mcintosh MC205 and connected from the 50V first via balanced outputs (i checked that the setting on the MC205 was on 8 ohms to drive my Reference Kef 205/2s). When turned everything back on, I had to crank it it to about -10 DB to hear faintly the content. When I cranked it up to +10, I could still hear the content, but also everything crackled and popped. I check the output volume (volume path name) and it is set to -35 to +10. I tested the tone and I could barely hear them (though not crackling and popping) The needles on the amp showed no activity unless the crackling and the popping came on (about 20 watts). Level Calibration is all 0 DB. Same thing when connecting to RCA (i tested all combination of 5 channels).
> 
> 
> Any help would be appreciated. The MC205 could be problem, but I wanted to check with the group in case anyone has had an issue with this combination 50v And MC205 or any other insights, the amp is a backbreaker. Am i missing a setting? Thanks



There are no settings specific to enabling the XLR outputs.


Give Anthem tech support a call and they can walk you through isolating the problem. It could be as simple as you aren't powering up the Main path in the AVM 50v or you aren't set up right for Triggers to take the new amp out of standby.


One thing you can check while waiting is the pinouts of the XLR on the AVM 50v (see the Specifications at the back of the AVM 50v manual) vs. the pin-ins of the amp. There is an uncommon, alternate wiring for the 3 pins in an XLR socket and your amp may have a selector setting for which to expect.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/21577787
> 
> 
> Anyone ever seen a red "haze" with their 50V/D2V? Every once in a while, most often after changing sources I'll see what I can only describe as a red haze over parts of the picture?



If you are seeing normal video that is tinted Shocking Pink over the whole screen then that's an HDMI handshake failure. The two sides of the cable are in disagreement about whether RGB or YCbCr video data format will be used. If the confusion is reversed the other way around the video is tinted Ghastly Green.


As with any case of HDMI handshake failure, the first thing to look to is the quality/length of your cables and the mechanical fit of plugs in sockets (fully inserted straight in with nothing tugging the plug in any direction).


Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so the problem could be either the cable from your Source device or the cable to the Display. Check the plugs at both ends of each cable.


It is useful to simplify the HDMI handshake by using explicit settings instead of Auto -- e.g., in Setup > Video Output pick YCbCr 4:4:4 data format for example instead of Auto. Look for a similar choice in your Source devices.


Next try running for a while using 1080i video in and out of the Anthem instead of 1080p. If that works without problems then that suggests your cables are not up to carrying the higher bandwidth 1080p signals over their given length. Try upgrading your cables. I like the HDMI cables from Blue Jeans Cable (and AVS Forum sponsor). Note that they have two types of "best" cable: One for normal lengths and the other for long lengths.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/21577965
> 
> 
> Is there any advantage to going through the processor for 3d as opposed to using dual outs from a blu ray player? I would think with blu ray you may as well use an oppo as opposed to getting the upgrade done....just need an extra HDMI run to the display, right?



To get the best video from the Oppo you want to use its HDMI 1 output. If you have that wired directly to the TV that means you can't pass HDMI 1 video through the D2v for normal -- non-3D -- stuff either.


With 3D pass-through in the D2v you can wire HDMI 1 from the Oppo to the D2v and leave its HDMI 2 output unused. Then you have the advantage of the best from the Oppo as well as the flexibility of using features in the D2v for non-3D video.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/21580299
> 
> 
> FWIW, I don't like Anthem's Dolby volume implementation. I don't use it on any source. I had an Arcam AVR600 before the Anthem, and Arcam's Dolby Volume is definitely different for some reason. I loved it on that machine and used it for everything, definitely not on the Anthem.
> 
> 
> P.S. I love my Anthem and the Arcam just pissed me off



I agree. Dolby Volume on the Anthem D2v is a great disappointment to me. I've found no good use for it.


I'd love to learn that it is just a bug in the implementation, but I really don't think that's the case. I think Dolby missed the mark on this one. Perhaps the Arcam simply defaults the settings to levels where Dolby Volume isn't really doing much. Apparently there are several different levels of implementation possible for Dolby Volume, with fuller implementation requiring substantial DSP horsepower. It is my understanding the Anthems do that fuller implementation.

--Bob


----------



## BladeRnR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21562731
> 
> 
> 2.13b uploaded but took longer due to the video processor portion of the code. Check the readme file in the firmware folder, there's a warning in there now.
> 
> Switching sources went fine and the first movie I ran did so without incident.
> 
> Music off of my Naim server also ran fine in 2ch mode.
> 
> John



I've tried loading 2.13b 3 times (D2V) with no success for HDMI inputs. No Picture or Sound. I also noticed the OSD does not work on any HDMI Input. I tried another Input (CD) and I get Audio (And the OSD works). Switched back to 2.11 and everything is normal. First time I've ever had a Firmware not work. I did notice 2.13b rectifies the "pink" OSD issue.


Are there any hidden settings or anything special with 2.13b that I might not know about? Works fine on my Brothers unit. Reset to Factory Defaults as recommended prior to Load.


Cheers


Blade


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FWIW, I don't like Anthem's Dolby volume implementation. I don't use it on any source. I had an Arcam AVR600 before the Anthem, and Arcam's Dolby Volume is definitely different for some reason. I loved it on that machine and used it for everything, definitely not on the Anthem.



I'm not liking the volume / muting logic in this one either. Unmuting and blasting you while you try to LOWER the volume is stupid, IMO.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When turned everything back on, I had to crank it it to about -10 DB to hear faintly the content. When I cranked it up to +10, I could still hear the content, but also everything crackled and popped. I check the output volume (volume path name) and it is set to -35 to +10. I tested the tone and I could barely hear them (though not crackling and popping) The needles on the amp showed no activity unless the crackling and the popping came on (about 20 watts). Level Calibration is all 0 DB.



sounds like the low power-on volume bug. Happens all the time to me. Did you try restarting the Anthem? That always fixes it for me. It seems to happen less often if you turn on the Anthem first, source last.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BladeRnR* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried loading 2.13b 3 times (D2V) with no success for HDMI inputs. No Picture or Sound. I also noticed the OSD does not work on any HDMI Input. I tried another Input (CD) and I get Audio. Switched back to 2.11 and everything is normal. First time I've ever had a Firmware not work. I did notice 2.13b rectifies the "pink" OSD issue.
> 
> 
> Are there any hidden settings or anything special with 2.13b that I might not not about? Works fine on my Brothers unit. Reset to Factory Defaults as recommended prior to Load.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Blade



No settings that would cause your problems. Let Anthem know.

John


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21585553
> 
> 
> sounds like the low power-on volume bug. Happens all the time to me. Did you try restarting the Anthem? That always fixes it for me. It seems to happen less often if you turn on the Anthem first, source last.



Thanks. I will try this and Bob's suggestions and let the group know. Is the low power on bug present in 2.11? I sent in the item to Anthem in Dec right after i bought it to fix a video issue and I noticed they went from the 2.12 version and put in the 2.11 version. Thanks!


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21585339
> 
> 
> If you are seeing normal video that is tinted Shocking Pink over the whole screen then that's an HDMI handshake failure. The two sides of the cable are in disagreement about whether RGB or YCbCr video data format will be used. If the confusion is reversed the other way around the video is tinted Ghastly Green.
> 
> 
> As with any case of HDMI handshake failure, the first thing to look to is the quality/length of your cables and the mechanical fit of plugs in sockets (fully inserted straight in with nothing tugging the plug in any direction).



That does sort of sound like it, except it's not the whole screen, it's just the darkest areas. Maybe I'll grab my 7D and set it up to record video for a while to see if I can catch it.


Does a handshake failure resolve itself on it's own? Or would it be something that was "stuck" from the initial connection.



> Quote:
> Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so the problem could be either the cable from your Source device or the cable to the Display. Check the plugs at both ends of each cable.



The cable in question is actually (IIRC) a new Monoprice high speed cable, only a half meter one at that.



> Quote:
> It is useful to simplify the HDMI handshake by using explicit settings instead of Auto -- e.g., in Setup > Video Output pick YCbCr 4:4:4 data format for example instead of Auto. Look for a similar choice in your Source devices.



Wish I had a setting like that on my source device, I'll have to double check if anyone figured out how to trick it.



> Quote:
> Next try running for a while using 1080i video in and out of the Anthem instead of 1080p.



Actually I think the issue happens most with 480i (DVDs) than anything else, though IIRC 480i has oddly high bandwidth requirements.




> Quote:
> If that works without problems then that suggests your cables are not up to carrying the higher bandwidth 1080p signals over their given length. Try upgrading your cables. I like the HDMI cables from Blue Jeans Cable (and AVS Forum sponsor). Note that they have two types of "best" cable: One for normal lengths and the other for long lengths.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah, I've actually been debating about getting a new cable for my 50V to Planar, not because the current one doesn't work, but because I've currently got a 50' cable from the when I had a longer run,and probably only need 25' now.


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21585563
> 
> 
> You know you can edit/delete your posts right?



Ah, I see it now!!!! Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/21585753
> 
> 
> That does sort of sound like it, except it's not the whole screen, it's just the darkest areas. Maybe I'll grab my 7D and set it up to record video for a while to see if I can catch it.
> 
> 
> Does a handshake failure resolve itself on it's own? Or would it be something that was "stuck" from the initial connection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cable in question is actually (IIRC) a new Monoprice high speed cable, only a half meter one at that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I had a setting like that on my source device, I'll have to double check if anyone figured out how to trick it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually I think the issue happens most with 480i (DVDs) than anything else, though IIRC 480i has oddly high bandwidth requirements.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I've actually been debating about getting a new cable for my 50V to Planar, not because the current one doesn't work, but because I've currently got a 50' cable from the when I had a longer run,and probably only need 25' now.



No, the Shocking Pink handshake failure is unmistakable. The entire image is tinted like you are viewing it through a red gel.


If you are just seeing the problem in regions that are supposed to be near black, that sounds like some sort of floating black levels problem. That COULD be an HDMI problem (stuck bits), but it strikes me as more likely to be a Display problem. Look for settings in your display that dynamically change black levels or contrast according to the content. The algorithm may be on the fritz.


As I understand it, the problem is not easily reproducible. If you have an easy cure -- such as changing to a different input and back -- it might be wise to just live with it for a while to see if it gets more common -- which would make it easier to isolate what's screwing up.


HDMI cables can cause problems EITHER because they are too long OR because they are too short. The most reliable length is about 6 feet or 2 meters simply because the HDMI transmitter and receiver electronics are optimized for that.


-------------------------------


480i is transmitted just like it is 480p -- via a hack that involves duplicating pixels to get the bandwidth up. It is actually more complicated for the electronics to handle than 480p because of having to deal with this hack at either end. In addition, there are still quite a few devices out there which screw up in one way or another when fed 480i. Typical problems include incorrect video levels, clipping near blacks and whites, and pixel cropping around the edges. 480p is the "simplest" signal for HDMI. If you are having problems with 480i over HDMI, try 480p instead and see if the problems go away.

--Bob


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21585750
> 
> 
> Thanks. I will try this and Bob's suggestions and let the group know. Is the low power on bug present in 2.11? I sent in the item to Anthem in Dec right after i bought it to fix a video issue and I noticed they went from the 2.12 version and put in the 2.11 version. Thanks!



It is in 2.13a, I am getting it from time to time. Restarting the Anthem fixes the issue. I am also getting pink screens and HDCP issues with my Cisco cable box but it is not happening often enough to be annoying.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21586105
> 
> 
> No, the Shocking Pink handshake failure is unmistakable. The entire image is tinted like you are viewing it through a red gel.



Yeah, definitely not that.



> Quote:
> If you are just seeing the problem in regions that are supposed to be near black, that sounds like some sort of floating black levels problem. That COULD be an HDMI problem (stuck bits), but it strikes me as more likely to be a Display problem. Look for settings in your display that dynamically change black levels or contrast according to the content. The algorithm may be on the fritz.



I would say it's not my projector because I never had this issue before I put the 50V in the loop.



> Quote:
> As I understand it, the problem is not easily reproducible. If you have an easy cure -- such as changing to a different input and back -- it might be wise to just live with it for a while to see if it gets more common -- which would make it easier to isolate what's screwing up.



It's tricky that, in the sense that there isn't something specific I can do that makes it happen for sure it's not reproducible. However it does happen relatively often, like several times each "session" I use it. I don't actually have a cure beyond it fixes itself within a second or so of when it happens, I was just saying it would be tricky to get a picture because by the time I would see it happen and grab the camera, it would already be cleared up.



> Quote:
> HDMI cables can cause problems EITHER because they are too long OR because they are too short. The most reliable length is about 6 feet or 2 meters simply because the HDMI transmitter and receiver electronics are optimized for that.



I see, that would unfortunately make a bit of a mess of my "rack".




> Quote:
> 480i is transmitted just like it is 480p -- via a hack that involves duplicating pixels to get the bandwidth up. It is actually more complicated for the electronics to handle than 480p because of having to deal with this hack at either end. In addition, there are still quite a few devices out there which screw up in one way or another when fed 480i. Typical problems include incorrect video levels, clipping near blacks and whites, and pixel cropping around the edges. 480p is the "simplest" signal for HDMI. If you are having problems with 480i over HDMI, try 480p instead and see if the problems go away.
> 
> --Bob



I may try that, but that would be quite unfortunate because my source device is not very good at deinterlacing (especially if the flags are hosed), and on top of that my Planar 8150 which also uses a Gennum VXP didn't have the same issues, with a direct connection, but I need to use HDMI to get HBR audio from said source device.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/21586556
> 
> 
> I may try that, but that would be quite unfortunate because my source device is not very good at deinterlacing (especially if the flags are hosed), and on top of that my Planar 8150 which also uses a Gennum VXP didn't have the same issues, with a direct connection, but I need to use HDMI to get HBR audio from said source device.



The point of trying 480p is diagnostic.


Anyway, give Anthem tech support a call and they can help walk you through diagnosing this.

--bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89* /forum/post/21585753
> 
> 
> Wish I had a setting like that on my source device, I'll have to double check if anyone figured out how to trick it.
> 
> 
> Actually I think the issue happens most with 480i (DVDs) than anything else, though IIRC 480i has oddly high bandwidth requirements.



Are you playing DVDs on a blu-ray player? The Anthem has serious problems with this when the video format is set to AUTO in my player. All the BD & HD players I've seen (old and new) have a setting for RGB format. Pick the "standard" one as opposed to "enhanced" or "auto". They don't always label things clearly like "RGB / YCbCr 4:2:2 / 4:4:4" but if you do see that, 4:2:2 (8-bit) works best for my Sony BDP.



> Quote:
> Yeah, I've actually been debating about getting a new cable for my 50V to Planar, not because the current one doesn't work, but because I've currently got a 50' cable from the when I had a longer run,and probably only need 25' now.



You're using a 50' HDMI cable and wondering why you're having problems?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21586551
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Is the low power on bug present in 2.11?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is in 2.13a, I am getting it from time to time. Restarting the Anthem fixes the issue.
Click to expand...


It has been there a long time, at least since v2.10, and as far as I know there is no fix planned by Anthem as they say it is "difficult to reproduce".


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21587214
> 
> 
> Are you playing DVDs on a blu-ray player? The Anthem has serious problems with this when the video format is set to AUTO in my player. All the BD & HD players I've seen (old and new) have a setting for RGB format.



It's not a BD player, it's a SageTV HD Theater/extender.



> Quote:
> You're using a 50' HDMI cable and wondering why you're having problems?



I have no trouble with that cable, it does 1080p60 just fine and has since I got it. The 1080p from the 50V to the projector (the OSD, test patters, VP menus) is perfect with no issues whatsoever.


----------



## Texas steve

I had the exact issues with 2.12 w&X. went back to 2.11 and all worked fine. I have not tried 2.13b for that reason. I notifed Anthem and Nick but no response except to say that most of their testing has been done WITH new 3d boards. I do not have a 3d board in and Im assuming you dont either?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BladeRnR* /forum/post/21585539
> 
> 
> I've tried loading 2.13b 3 times (D2V) with no success for HDMI inputs. No Picture or Sound. I also noticed the OSD does not work on any HDMI Input. I tried another Input (CD) and I get Audio. Switched back to 2.11 and everything is normal. First time I've ever had a Firmware not work. I did notice 2.13b rectifies the "pink" OSD issue.
> 
> 
> Are there any hidden settings or anything special with 2.13b that I might not not about? Works fine on my Brothers unit. Reset to Factory Defaults as recommended prior to Load.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Blade


----------



## naxos41

Any chance AVM50V getting Dolby iiz? I have seen this topic discussed and then got dismissed, but MRX has iiz. Why not AVM50V?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *naxos41* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any chance AVM50V getting Dolby iiz? I have seen this topic discussed and then got dismissed, but MRX has iiz. Why not AVM50V?



The MRX uses the back channels for the front height. It doesn't have 9 channels.

John


----------



## naxos41

MRX users can choose the rear or front height. Why wouldn't Anthem give the same option to AVM50V users? That was my question.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I had the exact issues with 2.12 w&X. went back to 2.11 and all worked fine. I have not tried 2.13b for that reason. I notifed Anthem and Nick but no response except to say *that most of their testing has been done WITH new 3d boards. I do not have a 3d board in and Im assuming you dont either?*



Hi there. I'm Blades brother and I'm currently using 2.13b without issues but the HDMI boards were replaced (not 3D) when I had audio not working with HDMI. Does anyone know if Anthem have changed anything in the last year with the boards before the 3D? Also has there been any changes to the main display? The issue (not big) with my display (in standby I can clearly see a thin line of something running across the middle) of the screen but my brothers D2v in the same mode is completly black. I was told by the repairer that there's 2 led lights inside that may be illuminating the display, but the previous display didn't show this at all.


So I wonder if Anthem have made some slight changes in the boards and display for the D2v?


----------



## bekindrewind




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21579933
> 
> 
> OFF = No Dolby Volume Processing
> 
> ON = Normal Dolby Volume Processing
> 
> Cinema = Normal Dolby Volume Processing PLUS a roughly +10dB volume boost (taking typical home theater audio calibration at 75dB and making it into the 85dB used in commercial movie theaters -- i.e., it just gets louder.)
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume Level is a setting controlling how aggressively Dolby Volume Processing, when set to ON, attempts to raise quieter passages to keep everything at the same volume as louder passages. I.e., adjust your Main Volume so that louder passages play at a comfortable level and you'll still be able to hear quieter passages. The higher the number, the stronger the effect. OFF or low number choices tend to be preferable. There is a slight lag when content volume changes (either direction) before the effect adjusts for that, and with higher numbers this constant changing of the adjustment will become too noticeable.
> 
> 
> In addition to the choice of doing content volume based adjustments, Dolby Volume also does FREQUENCY based adjustments of volume when Dolby Volume is ON -- i.e., the volume adjustment varies according to the frequencies present in the content. The idea is to help out with frequencies that are harder to hear when you are playing quiet content with a low Main Volume setting. Think of it as a fancy "Loudness setting" adjustment curve except that it functions by constantly re-analyzing the content. The degree to which it does that adjustment can not be controlled -- it is simply either ON or OFF according to the first Dolby Volume setting. However Half Mode ON turns OFF this frequency-based adjustment whenever the combination of content volume and your Main Volume setting is high enough that it isn't really needed. I.e., it only works for the "lower half" of the combined content+Main volume range. Half Mode ON is strongly recommended whenever you use Dolby Volume ON for any Source.
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume OFF altogether is strongly recommended whenever you are doing critical, audiophile listening, regardless of Source type or audio format. With Dolby Volume OFF, the Level and Half Mode settings are ignored. Keep in mind that these settings are remembered separately for each Setup > Source Setup definition. There is also a Short Cut on the remote -- press and hold the "0" button -- for viewing the main Dolby volume setting in effect at the moment and changing it, on the fly, using the Up/Down arrows.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you look just above the first post on any page while viewing this thread, you'll find a gray bar with a Search This Thread option on the right hand side.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, and all others who read this post...

I, we, are very fortunate to have Bob's input to our questions. Thank you so very much for taking the time to answer and elaborate with such detail when you answered my question, and from what I've read, all the other's members questions too. I truely appreciate your help.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21579933
> 
> 
> Cinema = Normal Dolby Volume Processing PLUS a roughly +10dB volume boost (taking typical home theater audio calibration at 75dB and making it into the 85dB used in commercial movie theaters -- i.e., it just gets louder.)



Not sure I follow you on this one Bob, home theatre calibrations and cinema calibration result in the same 'reference level' calibration.

Calibrating to 75dB or 85dB is dependent on the test tones used, not whether it's for a HT or cinema, ie -30dBFS tones to calibrate to 75dB and -20dBFS tones to calibrate to 85dB. The result is the same, 105dB max at reference level(or 0dB on the D2v's master volume) from each main channel.


I did notice an increase in level then using the Cinema mode UNTIL I properly set the Dolby Volume reference level in the D2v's settings......right next to the reference level setting. Now there is only a slight difference in frequency adjustments noticed when switching between Dolby volume ON and CINEMA(tested at -30dB master volume)



> Quote:
> Dolby Volume Level is a setting controlling how aggressively Dolby Volume Processing, when set to ON, attempts to raise quieter passages to keep everything at the same volume as louder passages. I.e., adjust your Main Volume so that louder passages play at a comfortable level and you'll still be able to hear quieter passages. The higher the number, the stronger the effect. OFF or low number choices tend to be preferable. There is a slight lag when content volume changes (either direction) before the effect adjusts for that, and with higher numbers this constant changing of the adjustment will become too noticeable.



Yep, the numbered scale in Dolby Volume dictates the dynamic compression level(similar to Audysseys Dynamic Volume or Dolby's DRC), low numbers for low compression levels and high numbers for high compression levels. I can only assume there are some variations to the frequency adjustments depending on this high/low setting.



> Quote:
> In addition to the choice of doing content volume based adjustments, Dolby Volume also does FREQUENCY based adjustments of volume when Dolby Volume is ON -- i.e., the volume adjustment varies according to the frequencies present in the content. The idea is to help out with frequencies that are harder to hear when you are playing quiet content with a low Main Volume setting. Think of it as a fancy "Loudness setting" adjustment curve except that it functions by constantly re-analyzing the content. The degree to which it does that adjustment can not be controlled -- it is simply either ON or OFF according to the first Dolby Volume setting.



As I understand it, switching between ON and CINEMA mode adjusts the aggressiveness of this frequency based adjustment. ON seems to be less aggressive whereas CINEMA seems to be more aggressive. I believe the Cinema mode makes the adjustments relative to reference level to give the listener a similar frequency balance to what they would hear at reference level(similar to Audysseys Dynamic EQ).



> Quote:
> However Half Mode ON turns OFF this frequency-based adjustment whenever the combination of content volume and your Main Volume setting is high enough that it isn't really needed. I.e., it only works for the "lower half" of the combined content+Main volume range. Half Mode ON is strongly recommended whenever you use Dolby Volume ON for any Source.



At and above reference level(0dB on the D2v) the frequency based adjustments are no longer needed so the Half Mode ON setting turns them off at or above 0dB master volume(similar to Audysseys Dynamic EQ). The lower in volume you go the more aggressive this adjustment gets, the closer to reference level you get the less aggressive this adjustment gets.


I personally use Dolby Volume ON mode quite extensively for TV or late night movie viewing. I use the highest dynamic compression setting which stops the commercials from blasting away between the shows and allows comfortable movie listening at low volumes (generally -35dB) without having to adjust volume to hear dialogue between bombastic scenes.


Of course, for movies or audio at reasonable hours I turn Dolby Volume off and crank that sucker up










Cheers


Ps, where's Rodger Dressler when you need him


----------



## MACCA350

Hmm, I could run some tests to see what sort of frequency adjustments are made at the differing volumes and control levels, similar to those I did with Audysseys Dynamic EQ:









(Red is reference level, each trace below that is a 10dB reduction of master volume)


This clearly shows Audyssey Dyn EQ's frequency adjustment to the low and high frequencies increases as master volume is reduced. Basically, as you mentioned, a loudness curve that varies in aggressiveness depending on the volume. Note that at reference level the response is flat which means the adjustment has been reduced to nil.


Cheers


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21589127
> 
> 
> Ps, where's Rodger Dressler when you need him



Hiding. I just came off an arduous discussion of Audyssey DEQ and RLO. I'm taking a break...


----------



## BladeRnR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21587897
> 
> 
> I had the exact issues with 2.12 w&X. went back to 2.11 and all worked fine. I have not tried 2.13b for that reason. I notifed Anthem and Nick but no response except to say that most of their testing has been done WITH new 3d boards. I do not have a 3d board in and Im assuming you dont either?



Quite right TS - I do not have the new 3D board. I'm assuming it's simply a compatability issue with non-3D HDMI boards. Given JayRay is a Beta tester for the HDMI 1.4 Upgrade it's not an apples to apples comparsion and is irrelevant.


No matter. I'll simply wait for the Hardware Upgrade when it's ready and revert to 2.11/2.12x in the interim.


The fact 2.13b works fine on my Brother Simon's unit (He recently had both Daughter Boards replaced with a warranty repair) adds an element of confusion and also suggests there have been some progressive improvements of the "old" HDMI boards during the Anthem D2V's lifecycle (as Simon suggested above). That approach certainly isn't uncommon with products that have lengthy lifespans (especially cars).


Cheers


Blade


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21589127
> 
> 
> Not sure I follow you on this one Bob, home theatre calibrations and cinema calibration result in the same 'reference level' calibration.
> 
> Calibrating to 75dB or 85dB is dependent on the test tones used, not whether it's for a HT or cinema, ie -30dBFS tones to calibrate to 75dB and -20dBFS tones to calibrate to 85dB. The result is the same, 105dB max at reference level(or 0dB on the D2v's master volume) from each main channel.
> 
> 
> I did notice an increase in level then using the Cinema mode UNTIL I properly set the Dolby Volume reference level in the D2v's settings......right next to the reference level setting. Now there is only a slight difference in frequency adjustments noticed when switching between Dolby volume ON and CINEMA(tested at -30dB master volume)
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, the numbered scale in Dolby Volume dictates the dynamic compression level(similar to Audysseys Dynamic Volume or Dolby's DRC), low numbers for low compression levels and high numbers for high compression levels. I can only assume there are some variations to the frequency adjustments depending on this high/low setting.
> 
> 
> 
> As I understand it, switching between ON and CINEMA mode adjusts the aggressiveness of this frequency based adjustment. ON seems to be less aggressive whereas CINEMA seems to be more aggressive. I believe the Cinema mode makes the adjustments relative to reference level to give the listener a similar frequency balance to what they would hear at reference level(similar to Audysseys Dynamic EQ).
> 
> 
> 
> At and above reference level(0dB on the D2v) the frequency based adjustments are no longer needed so the Half Mode ON setting turns them off at or above 0dB master volume(similar to Audysseys Dynamic EQ). The lower in volume you go the more aggressive this adjustment gets, the closer to reference level you get the less aggressive this adjustment gets.
> 
> 
> I personally use Dolby Volume ON mode quite extensively for TV or late night movie viewing. I use the highest dynamic compression setting which stops the commercials from blasting away between the shows and allows comfortable movie listening at low volumes (generally -35dB) without having to adjust volume to hear dialogue between bombastic scenes.
> 
> 
> Of course, for movies or audio at reasonable hours I turn Dolby Volume off and crank that sucker up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Ps, where's Rodger Dressler when you need him



Assuming you have followed instructions in setting up the Anthem manually or with ARC, you will end up with a 75dB solution. "Reference Level" content from movies or whatever will play at 75dB when you have Main Volume set to the Anthem selected level of -10dB. This choice of assigning Main Volume -10dB the role of "reproduce calibrated level" is specifically so that it is easier to raise the calibrated level to 85dB by simply turning up the volume to 0dB. For most folks that will be too loud for home theater use which is why 75dB is the recommended calibration level for home theater.


But the way movie theaters are set up, that *SAME* "reference level" movie content will play at 85dB. This is done quite deliberately to overcome the extra ambient noise in a movie crowd. Movie theaters are set to play movies more loudly. It's like they leave their Main Volume setting on 0dB all the time.


NOTE: "Peak" levels in movie content (or whatever) can easily exceed "reference level" by +15dB, or even more in some cases.


Dolby Volume Cinema changes playback to target the 85dB level. This is not quite the same as raising Main Volume to 0dB as it alters the way Dolby Volume's algorithm adjusts the content playback for frequency contour and volume leveling.


-------------------------------------------


The Dolby Level control in Setup > Level Calibration does indeed affect all this. The idea is to set that to produce 75dB SPL. If your speaker solution is in fact set up for 75dB (e.g., from ARC) then the correct setting for that Dolby Level setting is its default, 0dB value. If your speaker solution differs from 75dB, then the Dolby Level setting gives you and independent way to tell Dolby what gain through the Anthem results in 75dB, so that Dolby Volume can bias its algorithm accordingly.


If you deliberately set Dolby Level incorrectly, you can indeed eliminate the volume difference between Dolby Volume ON and Dolby Volume Cinema. But that also screws up the Dolby Volume algorithm. I.e., it has a negative impact on Dolby Volume being able to do its job for EITHER Dolby Volume ON or Dolby Volume Cinema.


That's the theory. I've tried it, and my subjective opinion is that the theory is correct. I.e., I don't like what Dolby Volume is doing, but I like it even less if I have deliberately misadjusted Dolby Level to eliminate the volume difference between Dolby Volume ON and Dolby Volume Cinema. If you adjust Dolby Level to eliminate the volume difference between Dolby Volume ON and Dolby Volume Cinema, you get, in my opinion, worse results with either.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

Bob or anyone else, have you been able to get more details about what causes ARC to set the Reference Level Offset to -1? Also, what's the real impact of changing it from -1 to 0? I'm just curious. I have been setting mine to 0 just to see if I can hear a difference.


----------



## MACCA350

I still don't follow you Bob, reference level is the same whether it's for HT or cinema, the only difference is the recorded level of the test tones used. For instance AVIA uses -20dBFS tones that must be calibrated to 85dB to achieve correct calibration, having done that you can play DVE's -30dBFs test tones and they will playback 10dB lower at 75dB through the same system.


Reference level isn't 75dB or 85dB, it's 105dB max from the main channels and 115dB max from the LFE channel. This is the same for both HT and Cinema, peak SPL when in full flight can exceed 120dB due to the summation of channels. Using full scale(0dBFS) tones to set reference is impractical for both equipment and calibrators hearing(even with ear protection) so a solution of -20dBFS and -30dBFS test tones are used. I have and use both, -30dBFS test tones are generally used in HT equipment because they are easier on the consumers ears.


Btw, I just checked my reference level settings and they are -1.0 for reference and 0.0 for Dolby Volume reference. I recall originally I had to reduce the reference level by -6dB, but a while ago I adjusted my active speakers gain down a little to allow less adjustment on the D2v.

Just checked the levels and both playback at 75dB and when in use there is definitely not a 10dB increase when switching to Dolby Volume Cinema mode..........only thing I can imagine is there was a bug in earlier firmware or maybe I'm remembering incorrectly










Either way I cannot fathom a logical reason why Cinema mode would bump the levels by 10dB. Mine doesn't, which is how I believe it should operate.......as I mentioned the only difference seems to be in the frequency adjustments, though I haven't done much in the way of comparisons.


Rodger, have you finished that break yet?










Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Perhaps you'd find it easier to think of it this way. EVERYTHING in the Anthem, including ARC and Dolby Volume is built around the idea that you will set Main Volume no higher than -10dB for critical listening. So think of it as your absolute, 85dB calibration level attenuated by -10dB -- so as to produce a better fit for home theater use.


Dolby Volume Cinema undoes that. Unless you misadjust the Level Calibration > Dolby Level setting.

--Bob


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21591417
> 
> 
> ^ Perhaps you'd find it easier to think of it this way. EVERYTHING in the Anthem, including ARC and Dolby Volume is built around the idea that you will set Main Volume no higher than -10dB for critical listening. So think of it as your absolute, 85dB calibration level attenuated by -10dB -- so as to produce a better fit for home theater use.
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume Cinema undoes that. Unless you misadjust the Level Calibration > Dolby Level setting.
> 
> --Bob



So if I am mostly listening at volume -20db or lower, should I manually set Reference Level Offset to -2? With Audyssey it made a huge difference but I am not sure if it influences ARC in some way (if I am not using Dolby volume).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> So if I am mostly listening at volume -20db or lower, should I manually set Reference Level Offset to -2? With Audyssey it made a huge difference but I am not sure if it influences ARC in some way (if I am not using Dolby volume).



I doubt that's a good idea.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21591417
> 
> 
> ^ Perhaps you'd find it easier to think of it this way. EVERYTHING in the Anthem, including ARC and Dolby Volume is built around the idea that you will set Main Volume no higher than -10dB for critical listening. So think of it as your absolute, 85dB calibration level attenuated by -10dB -- so as to produce a better fit for home theater use.
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume Cinema undoes that. Unless you misadjust the Level Calibration > Dolby Level setting.
> 
> --Bob



Sorry, Bob but that makes no sense at all










So far my testing has found that Anthems method of setting reference level with the internal test tones as specified in the manual(page 30, Test Noise Level) results in the correct reference level achieved when the master volume is at 0.0dB.


They even state that both Test Noise Level and Dolby Volume Calibration should read 75dB, and as I stated that results in reference playback at 0.0dB master volume.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes, but the "reference playback" you are getting at 0dB Main Volume is 85dB which is too loud for Home Theater use.


When ARC builds a 75dB solution, that corresponds to a -10dB setting on Main Volume.

--Bob


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21585750
> 
> 
> Thanks. I will try this and Bob's suggestions and let the group know. Is the low power on bug present in 2.11? I sent in the item to Anthem in Dec right after i bought it to fix a video issue and I noticed they went from the 2.12 version and put in the 2.11 version. Thanks!



Thanks folks, I tried all of it and it works, not sure which, but no matter! Wow! I am blown away. So far impressed by the 2 channel ability to deliver music. I love the DACs and Im sure the D2V are even better. I am still playing with the settings and the movies thus far have been underwhelming though I am putting Master and Commander later this evening and will around more with the settings. I'm sure its in the manual someplace, but do i have to set something special for the Master Audio to kick in? Im using an Oppo HDIMI. Thanks!!!!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks folks, I tried all of it and it works, not sure which, but no matter! Wow! I am blown away. So far impressed by the 2 channel ability to deliver music. I love the DACs and Im sure the D2V are even better. I am still playing with the settings and the movies thus far have been underwhelming though I am putting Master and Commander later this evening and will around more with the settings. I'm sure its in the manual someplace, but do i have to set something special for the Master Audio to kick in? Im using an Oppo HDIMI. Thanks!!!!



Make site you turn off Secondary Audio in the oppo setup menu and set Audio to Bitstream if you want up see it on the D2v display.

John


----------



## dkojevnikov

I first published my very long post with frustration about ARC but decided to shorten it a bit.


So in few words. ARC is calculating the filters and response curves for mains and subwoofer in their crossover point but to combine those curves into final curve one should really know the logical distance between mains and subwoofer so that waves would come to a listening point in correct phase. Unlike Audyssey and all the other room correction algorithms, ARC is not doing it thus the resulting curve and real world results are so much different when varying the subwoofer distance so I would say that the whole point of measuring and correcting everything around crossover loses its sense, it is simply does not work as difference in phases can give deltas in 15 Db. And this is exactly what I am seeng in my case. Setting speaker pairs using the maximum method (by varying the distance until maximum is reached) does not give the best sounding option as there is no guarantee that ARC calculated filters using this method.


I am currently trying to invent some good way on how to set the distance manually but it is a major issue of ARC which is not explained by Anthem for some reason.


First I will set room gain to 0 so that the final calculated response curve would be flat around crossover. Then I guess I can play with distances while measuring what is going on around crossover. I can simulate this in HOLM through its C=A+B function (where A is my main speaker with subwoofer off, B is subwoofer with my amplifier off and changing the time zero point for mains and subwoofer). Just playing with it on my computer I am getting very different results. And not knowing what final curve was calculated by ARC, it was impossible to understand which is right. But setting room gain to 0 should give me some starting point as the final response curve (A+B) should look flat.


ARC could do this automatically by playing the sound through pairs of speakers because it cannot identify logical speaker distance due to unknown latency of computer interface. I think they should have plugged the microphone to a processor itself instead of computer thus eliminating this latency. But as it is right now, it looks like they are not going to help us with this and good manual (or assisted by processor) algorithm should be proposed to overcome this issue. As I already mentioned, just changing the subwoofer distance I am getting all variations of sound from junk to superb.


And finally my advice to everybody using Anthem and ARC who has subwoofer in their system. Changing subwoofer distance can have dramatic influence on final results so don't be afraid to do it (plus minus 3 meters would be enough for most). Now I understand why some hear much better stereo sound with subwoofer off. It is just because its distance is not set right so it deteriorates the sound of main speakers.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am gradually losing my hope in ARC. The more I measure and tweak settings the more I understand that ARC is limited (and even incapable) in its abilities if subwoofer is present in the system.
> 
> 
> We already have the confirmation that ARC is not doing anything in time domain. Today I put on some slow Bossa nova with bass and female voice and started to vary the distance of my sub (plus minus 4 meters). Previously I used calibrated microphone and HOLM software to set speaker distances so that curves left+sub and right+sub would look smooth an similar to each other. The problem is that I got a very large bump from 50Hz to 110Hz (about 8 Db) and bass sounded too boomy for me with these settings.
> 
> 
> Then I started to change subwoofer distance while listening the music and was amaized that even with 0.2 cm steps I was getting completely different sound. Not just bass but vocals as well. At some point (1 meter farther than my identified "ideal" location) the sound changed dramatically, it's like completely different system. And stepping up and down by 0.2 cm from that location changed it back to a much worse one. At this sweet spot I frequency curves do not look good (there is a 4 Db difference between left+sub and right+sub) but sound is 100x better, I hear airiness, pleasant voice, bass is not boomy.
> 
> 
> I can easily understand why it is happening (knowing the theory of waves) but because ARC is not doing anything in time domain (unlike Audyssey), it is unable to do a good room correction automatically. It looks like setting the right speaker distance is crucial for getting the best sound and ARC is not helping with it.
> 
> 
> The problem is that it is unclear how Anthem is calculating its curves, what is time zero for mains and subwoofer (is it first peak, first positive peak, casual impulse, largest peak, highest positive peak or something else) so there is absolutely no way to tell what is the correct distance between speakers so that Anthem filters would yield the curve for main+subwoofer as intended (other than just sitting and flipping the distance manually and hoping on your ears).
> 
> 
> In case of other room correction algorithms (like Audissey), they measure the impulse/zero point themselves setting correct delays so that the final result will be as close to calculated as possible. With ARC, when I am moving my sub I am getting anything from plus 8 Db to minus 4 Db in final response and I don't know what is the correct value. Just setting all the distances to get the maximum amplitude at crossover point gives uneven response curves although the best sound overall.
> 
> 
> If I switch my subwoofer off, I get perfect response curves and in this case ARC is doing a great job. But not identifying the correct "logical distance" automatically is a major oversight that leads to the wrong response curves around crossover frequency for mains + sub which significantly degrades sound. I hope Anthem will do something about it in the future as it is very easy to implement. Meanwhile I have to spend hours trying to find the best parameters manually (and my wife is not happy about it).
> 
> 
> Sorry for the long post but customers should really know all the benefits and limitations of room correction system other than just stating that it is the best. The more I think about ARC as a mathematician the more I am inclined to believe that it is not that advanced at all as it is said to be. Maybe because of that any question about its algorithms as answered with "it is a commercial secret" reply. Just go to Audyssey website and check how detailed they are explaining everything what they are doing.



Sorry you feel that way but you are definitely in the minority. Contrary to your comments, not one review of ARC has agreed with your observations. Something seems wrong and your measuring technique may be flawed, settings may be off or your room is difficult to tame. Sub correction in ARC is excellent something I've not experienced with Audyssey.

John


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21593127
> 
> 
> Sorry you feel that way but you are definitely in the minority. Contrary to your comments, not one review of ARC has agreed with your observations. Something seems wrong and your measuring technique may be flawed, settings may be off or your room is difficult to tame. Sub correction in ARC is excellent something I've not experienced with Audyssey.
> 
> John



I am in minority only in a sense that I have a measurement tool (calibrated microphone which is more precise than Anthem microphone) and free software (HOLM). As you know, sound is waves and pressure of sound wave can differ from minus delta to plus delta and length of wave is speed_of_sound/frequency.

So for 60 Hz (my crossover) length of wave is 340 m/s / 60 1/s = 5.7 meters (around 19 feet). If you have two speakers playing the same 60Hz and their waves arrive at your ear at their maximum, you will get 2*delta sound pressure. If waves arrive at opposite phases, you will get 0 (nothing, no sound). Audyssey is measuring phases and adjusts delays (and applies filters) so that all the waves at cross point arrive at predefined phase. There is simply no other way mathematically speaking. ARC is doing the same thing (they did not invent the wheel, the only know-how in their technology is "room gain") but as they don't have control of delay (they cannot measure it due to unknown latency of computer), there is no way to make those waves to arrive at calculated phase, the only way out for a user is to identify it manually (trial and error). OK, just try to set the distance of your subwoofer 2.8 meters (9.3 feet) farther that it is set right now and listen to some tune with low frequencies. You will be amazed at difference of sound.


And no review can cancel the mathematics of waves. Statements like "there are 5 reviews out of 5 known to me that are raving" do not have any validity. Audyssey is simply doing the sub correction (frequency and phase) and they clearly state it on their website. Anthem is only doing the frequency correction and they hide all the information about their algorithms (they don't even specify how many filters they are using). I am more than inclined to think that excellent sound of Anthem equipment is not due to exclusiveness of ARC but because they make outstanding equipment. Yes, it uses IIR filters instead of FIR and it also can influence the results. But in the long run the only benefit of ARC is the possibility to set room gain and maximum frequency for correction. With Audyssey you really have to go to a PRO version to have this. BUT if you can find the right logical distances of your speakers, ARC starts working as intended. The problem is that it does not do it automatically and does not help to do it manually.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I am in minority only in a sense that I have a measurement tool (calibrated microphone which is more precise than Anthem microphone) and free software (HOLM). As you know, sound is waves and pressure of sound wave can differ from minus delta to plus delta and length of wave is speed_of_sound/frequency.
> 
> So for 60 Hz (my crossover) length of wave is 340 m/s / 60 1/s = 5.7 meters (around 19 feet). If you have two speakers playing the same 60Hz and their waves arrive at your ear at their maximum, you will get 2*delta sound pressure. If waves arrive at opposite phases, you will get 0 (nothing, no sound). Audyssey is measuring phases and adjusts delays (and applies filters) so that all the waves at cross point arrive at predefined phase. There is simply no other way mathematically speaking. ARC is doing the same thing (they did not invent the wheel, the only know-how in their technology is "room gain") but as they don't have control of delay (they cannot measure it due to unknown latency of computer), there is no way to make those waves to arrive at calculated phase, the only way out for a user is to identify it manually (trial and error). OK, just try to set the distance of your subwoofer 2.8 meters (9.3 feet) farther that it is set right now and listen to some tune with low frequencies. You will be amazed at difference of sound. And no review can cancel the mathematics of waves.



My ears tell me it sounds good as do all the people who hear my system, many of whom have Audyssey. Do you think the Engineers at Anthem are hoping their secret that ARC "has no clothes" won't be discovered? If you don't think it works, them sell your unit and get something else. All I know is the majority of people are amazed by the effect ARC has on the sound in their rooms. If your hypothesis doesn't agree with a large sample size of users experiences, then your hypothesis is faulty

John


----------



## saeyedoc

If the problem with arc had to do with the unknown latency of the computer, why would a pro calibration of audyssey not have the same issues?


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *saeyedoc* /forum/post/21593776
> 
> 
> If the problem with arc had to do with the unknown latency of the computer, why would a pro calibration of audyssey not have the same issues?



Latency words are Anthem words, not mine. I know that it is possible to determine the logical difference between speakers (say left and subwoofer) on any computer and its latency does not have influence on results. And they need only relative, not absolute, distances. The problem with Anthem is that first, they don't consider speaker distance so cannot set exact wave phase of two speakers they are blending automatically (although you can do it manually spending a couple of hours with SPL meter). And second, they don't tell anything about their algorithms. Audyssey has several pages explaining their algorithms and settings with graphs and resulting curves. I am not telling that ARC is worse than Audyssey. I am just telling that Anthem is trying to mystify ARC by hiding the facts.


I forgot about another difference between ARC and Audyssey that can actually influence on better experience with ARC. Anthem is correcting both dips and peaks where as Audyssey is only correcting peaks, not dips.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21593509
> 
> 
> My ears tell me it sounds good as do all the people who hear my system, many of whom have Audyssey. Do you think the Engineers at Anthem are hoping their secret that ARC "has no clothes" won't be discovered? If you don't think it works, them sell your unit and get something else.



I had 3 systems with Audyssey before getting Anthem and all of them sounded stellar because with Audyssey I learned how to adjust its settings to sound good. Now I am learning Anthem and I am starting to understand that it is over hyped. Purchasing good speakers and external amplifier caused the higher influence on final results.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21593509
> 
> 
> All I know is the majority of people are amazed by the effect ARC has on the sound in their rooms. If your hypothesis doesn't agree with a large sample size of users experiences, then your hypothesis is faulty
> 
> John



You probably never studied math. My hypothesis would be wrong if it did not agree with all user experiences. Moreover, how a good user experience disproves my theory that subwoofer distance significantly influences the final curve?


Having even one example contradicting the negation of my hypothesis ("ARC does everything right regardless of speaker distance") gives some hope that my hypothesis could be right. And I just gave you this example which you cannot disproof because it is a wave physics. Two waves with opposite phase will completely annihilate themselves regardless what system is producing them. If you happen to set distance for you subwoofer and mains so that their waves are opposite to your main speakers you will get zero sound at cross point. Varying the distance you change phase so you ill get all the kinds of distortions but the best point would one that ARC as used to calculate its filters. With current ARC implementation it is impossible to find this point automatically or semi-automatically and the only way to find it is by trying all the possible settings for subwoofer value in range of [-wavelength_of_crossover/2; wavelength_of_crossover/2]. You may be either lucky to set it right away (which I doubt) or you don't know that you can make your system sound even better.



Even if it is wrong on 1000 samples, it does not prove anything (mathematically speaking). I am not talking faith, I am talking math. Just change you subwoofer's distance by 9 feet farther from you and tell me which sound out of two do you consider correct one? Then on what basis do you state that distance that you set manually for your subwoofer is the right one which ARC was expected to produce?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Latency words are Anthem words, not mine. I know that it is possible to determine the logical difference between speakers (say left and subwoofer) on any computer and its latency does not have influence on results. And they need only relative, not absolute, distances. The problem with Anthem is that first, they don't consider speaker distance so cannot set exact wave phase of two speakers they are blending automatically (although you can do it manually spending a couple of hours with SPL meter). And second, they don't tell anything about their algorithms. Audyssey has several pages explaining their algorithms and settings with graphs and resulting curves. I am not telling that ARC is worse than Audyssey. I am just telling that Anthem is trying to mystify ARC by hiding the facts.



It's proprietary and very good so why should they let everyone know how they do it. Many people claim Audyssey doesn't let much out of the bag either so who cares how they do it. I'm just glad they do and do it well they can. BTW what is the big deal about measuring speaker distances anyway?

John


----------



## saeyedoc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21593817
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot about another difference between ARC and Audyssey that can actually influence on better experience with ARC. Anthem is correcting both dips and peaks where as Audyssey is only correcting peaks, not dips.



My dealer told me this is the main reason he thinks ARC works better than Audyssey. He said this in the context of recommending the Anthem MRX 300 to use as a pre/pro over the more expensive Integra 80.3.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21593910
> 
> 
> It's proprietary and very good so why should they let everyone know how they do it. Many people claim Audyssey doesn't let much out of the bag either so who cares how they do it. I'm just glad they do and do it well they can. BTW what is the big deal about measuring speaker distances anyway?
> 
> John



As I already mentioned, depending in what phase waves from main speaker and subwoofer arrive at listening point at crossover frequency, you can get anything from 0 to 2*max for this frequency and I bet Anthem engineers did not want you to hear 0 there. I am not telling that ARC is bad, I am telling that as an automatic system it is incomplete and it lacks one major component, phase alignment of speakers (and I am not talking only about mains+sub but also left+right, mains+surrounds etc.).


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21591902
> 
> 
> ^ Yes, but the "reference playback" you are getting at 0dB Main Volume is 85dB which is too loud for Home Theater use.
> 
> 
> When ARC builds a 75dB solution, that corresponds to a -10dB setting on Main Volume.
> 
> --Bob



Ignoring this 75/85dB notion, what you're basically saying is that -10dB on the master volume is -10dB from reference level.........well I have no arguement there. But it makes no sense for the Cinema mode to apply a +10dB level adjustment.

0dB master volume is reference level, if one wishes to listen at -10dB or -20dB that's their choice, boosting one DSP mode by 10dB is illogical(and as I mentioned earlier my D2v is not applying this 10dB boost to Cinema mode)........if one wants to listen at full reference level just turn the master volume to 0dB.


Cheers


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *saeyedoc* /forum/post/21593925
> 
> 
> My dealer told me this is the main reason he thinks ARC works better than Audyssey. He said this in the context of recommending the Anthem MRX 300 to use as a pre/pro over the more expensive Integra 80.3.



I am not sure if ARC works better than Audyssey (and by Audyssey I really mean pro-version of XT32). As I see right now there are 4 major differences between ARC and Audyssey.


First, ARC tries to identify room gain and does not correct it to flat. Anthem says that it makes system sound more natural. You can do this with Audyssey too but only in PRO version (actually, Audyssey PRO is much more advanced in this case because you can paint response curve yourself).


Second, ARC corrects dips and peaks, where as Audyssey only peaks. Although you can lower the overall level and it will looks like you are correcting the dips but I am not sure if Audyssey is doing that.


Third, ARC (in more advanced 50v and d2v) allows to specify the maximum frequency where to apply correction and it also may influence the quality of final results. Audyssey is correcting all the frequencies. Worth mentioning is the fact that every ARC has individually calibrated microphones where as most of Audysseys include generic lower quality microphones. Only the PRO version uses the individually calibrated microphone and it really may be the cause of a better ARC performance in most cases.


Fourth, ARC works only in frequency domain, where as Audyssey is working in frequency and time domains. By setting the speaker distance manually you can align wave phases (takes quite a time and you need additional SPL meter or calibrated microphone) but with much less accuracy than Audyssey is doing automatically. Not much of a deal because crossover is usually set at low frequency where wave length is pretty long.


Conclusion is that both technologies are good when all their features are available. I would say that with current implementation, ARC allows to make better correction than regular versions of Audyssey. But many users who set incorrect logical distances for their speakers will be disappointed with ARC results. As I already mentioned, changing the distance of my subwoofer by 4 feet changes my gorgeous sound into junk with boomy bass and distorted vocals (and I clearly see it on my measured response curves).


----------



## obie_fl

I thought it was well know that ARC didn't do time corrections. Setting distances and phase manually has always been required with ARC. Sure I wish they would implement it automatically but I guess I don't understand why this makes ARC any worse then Audyssey in terms of room correction, less user friendly maybe. By the same token I've had auto distance screw up too (Outlaw and low end Denon) so I'm used to doing it manually. In my case with multiple subs and powered woofers in my mains I pretty much have to do it manually.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21593938
> 
> 
> As I already mentioned, depending in what phase waves from main speaker and subwoofer arrive at listening point at crossover frequency, you can get anything from 0 to 2*max for this frequency and I bet Anthem engineers did not want you to hear 0 there. I am not telling that ARC is bad, I am telling that as an automatic system it is incomplete and it lacks one major component, phase alignment of speakers (and I am not talking only about mains+sub but also left+right, mains+surrounds etc.).



If you take a tape measure and measure the distance from each of the speaker and entered it. Then the D2 dsp will add the time delay so that sound waves from each speakers will arrive in phase at your listening area. So ARC computation assume all wave arrive in sync at the listening area.


Although it is not a correct assumption for all seating locations, you cannot optimize for all locations. All if you speaker have weird phase pattern at the crossing frequency then this assumption is not correct either.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21594030
> 
> 
> Ignoring this 75/85dB notion, what you're basically saying is that -10dB on the master volume is -10dB from reference level.........well I have no arguement there. But it makes no sense for the Cinema mode to apply a +10dB level adjustment.
> 
> 0dB master volume is reference level, if one wishes to listen at -10dB or -20dB that's their choice, boosting one DSP mode by 10dB is illogical(and as I mentioned earlier my D2v is not applying this 10dB boost to Cinema mode)........if one wants to listen at full reference level just turn the master volume to 0dB.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Sure, it's just a volume preference. Setups for home theater are geared for 75dB output as the loudest typical volume setting. Setups for commercial theater are set without that -10dB reduction.


The problem is that Dolby Volume's algorithm apparently has to know which flavor of setup you are using. It even has its own level calibration to make sure it knows what gain through the Anthem is yielding 75dB.


Dolby Volume ON evidently biases its volume adjustments assuming you are using a "normal" home theater setup geared for 75dB -- i.e., including that -10dB attenuation.


If you would prefer to hear what Dolby Volume can do for an 85dB configuration -- as if you were in a commercial theater -- then you can use the Dolby Volume CINEMA choice. Rather than requiring you to raise Main Volume, it does it for you. (Unless you misadjust its level calibration.) How useful is that? Not much, in my opinion. The difference in result, other than it just being louder, is nothing more than Dolby Volume reacting to your now-stated preference for listening to movies at the louder level. That apparently alters what it thinks is best to do with the content frequency-based and volume-based adjustments.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Wow, everyone needs to take a step back and calm down on this ARC distance/phase stuff. A little more respect, please for what others are posting.


-------------------------------------


From the get go it has been stated repeatedly here that ARC users must complete some manual steps to get the best results from ARC. Crucially, this includes setting the speaker distances and adjusting Phase for the subwoofer(s).


If you have only one subwoofer you can do both of these steps either before or after doing your ARC setup. Correcting these settings does not alter the ARC solution.


If you have MORE than one subwoofer then you MUST do both of these steps PRIOR TO doing your ARC setup or you will get incorrect results. That's because ARC hears all of your subs playing simultaneously and the relative Phase settings of the subs alters their interaction. Distances must be set before adjusting Phase because Phase is a function of relative distance.


--------------------------------------------


This is just two of MANY things ARC does not do automatically for you.


ARC also doesn't wire your speakers correctly.


ARC also doesn't point your speakers correctly.


ARC also doesn't move your subwoofer to its optimal position in the room.


ARC doesn't take any broken speakers off to be repaired.


My understanding is that Anthem chose not to include automatic speaker distance setting because, although it usually can be done well, when it screws up (due to room reflections for example) it screws up royally. Folks who have had good results from some other company's automatic distance adjustment system need to realize that your good result is partly due to luck. Other users may not be so lucky.


It is a trivial exercise for the user to enter the correct distances, and the result is always right. Always.


The current ARC architecture can not set Subwoofer Phase (even allowing that the user has manually set the speaker distances) because ARC only listens to one output at a time. That is, it can't hear the relative Phase between the sub and any speaker. In addition, the hardware only allows for one common signal regardless of whether you have 1, 2, 3, or 4 subwoofers wired. Which means that even if ARC were changed to compare Sub output vs., say, Left Front for Phase adjustment, it would only work properly for folks who have just one subwoofer.


And NO such system can correct for problems in Subwoofer POLARITY -- essential a mismatch in wiring between subs both in front and in back of the listener. Phase controls only alter response near the crossover frequencies, whereas incorrect Polarity reverses the ENTIRE range of bass frequencies.


So Anthem chose to make Polarity/Phase adjustment an additional manual task for the user. If you have more than one Subwoofer, then you adjust Phase for each separately (one sub powered at a time) for best match with your mains -- usually using Left Front as the surrogate for your mains. When each Sub is individually in Phase with Left Front, then they are all also in Phase with each other.


------------------------------------------------


Phase setting is not that complicated (although it IS a new skill most users need to develop), and the correct setting is surprisingly forgiving. That is there's a fairly wide range of Phase settings that will work equally well. You don't need an SPL meter to adjust Phase. If you have more than one Sub, power one of them at a time and repeat until all are done.


Anthem recommends using the FM Source tuned to the noise between stations. Since that noise is mostly higher frequencies, you will be looking to adjust Phase on each Sub to maximize the bass output -- the low end of that noise.


Alternatively, you can use a Sub Phase test track from a calibration disc. Since those pink noise tracks are mostly bass, you will be adjusting Phase, again, to maximize the output, but now you will be concentrating on the higher frequency end of that bass noise.


Use Stereo audio Mode so you are not confused by sounds being steered to the surrounds.


The effect is subtle, and, as I said above, there's a fairly wide range of possible Phase settings that will work "just as well". So take you time and sneak up on the correct Phase setting from both sides. Switch to 180 degrees away from the candidate Phase setting to reconfirm the subtle difference -- i.e., that the candidate setting is better. Once you have those two candidate settings, actually USE the setting in between them.


Unless you have a remotely controlled Sub, it is wise to enlist a friend to do the Phase knob twiddling while you do the listening at ARC mic position #1.


NOTE: Some folks prefer to invert the Subwoofer Polarity setting in Setup in the Anthem and then listen for MINIMUM bass (maximum cancellation) to find the correct Phase setting. Just remember to put Polarity in the Anthem back to normal when you are done setting up each Sub's Phase.


Note that as with distance setting, Phase setting for each sub is something you do once -- unless you move the speakers. If your sub is in the front of the room right next to your front speakers, odds are a Phase setting of 0 degrees will be right (and with "normal" Polarity).


Again, you must have speaker distances entered correctly beforehand, and it also helps to have the sub and the main speaker (e.g., Left Front) that you are using in rough volume balance. If you are adjusting Phase before running ARC you can do that with an SPL meter and the built in test tones. If you've already run ARC, the volume trims it has in place are all you need.


For Polarity, the usual Rule of Thumb is to set normal Polarity for each sub in the front of the room and inverted Polarity for each sub in the rear of the room. Just think of the direction of cone travel due to the sub in the rear being rotated 180 degrees.


If you are not certain which Polarity works best, determine the best Phase choice for BOTH Polarities (the result may very well be different) and just experiment to see which combo of Polarity/Phase gives the most pleasing result. Indeed, you may find your Sub doesn't even offer a Polarity control.


The main consequence of Polarity mismatch is cancellation BETWEEN SUBS (as opposed to between any Sub and the Mains). Since ARC hears the combined output of all your Subs playing together it WILL hear such dips -- and correct for them. But getting Polarity right is still a good first step, just as getting the physical positioning of the Sub right is a good first step.


NOTE: Using the Quick Measure Tool in ARC with sets of Subs powered in turn is a way to see the effect of the various Polarity setting combos. E.g., as you add each Sub to the mix, set its Polarity to give the best "uncorrected" Quick Measure response with the Subs already powered.


-----------------------------------------------


If you have only one subwoofer, you can use the Sub Polarity/Phase controls in Setup in the Anthem OR the controls on your Sub. If you have MORE than one Sub, then you must use individual controls on each Sub. Leave the Anthem settings at "normal" Polarity and 0 degrees Phase.


(I'll add an additional important NOTE here for folks with more than one subwoofer. If you are using ARC then you MUST set the Anthem to 1 Sub regardless of how many more you have. The other choices alter how the subwoofer volume trims are interpreted and the volume trims that ARC Uploads are calculated assuming you are using the 1 Sub setting.)


-----------------------------------------------


Incorrect speaker distance settings will show up as imprecise positioning of sounds "between" speakers in the surround field. Incorrect Phase will show up as a dip in bass response through the crossover frequencies.


Both effects are easy to miss. Music listeners for example will seldom notice imprecision in the surround field (since there are no visual clues -- no video). And bass is not localizable at all, so incorrect Sub distance has no impact on the perceived location of sounds -- which is what lets you use distance much as an alternate control for Phase when it comes to Subwoofers.


And for many MANY rooms and speaker setups, the MAXIMUM amount of Phase cancellation -- the worst result from the worst Phase setting -- will nevertheless still be small enough that you probably won't notice it unless you look with an audio test rig.


This is not to say you shouldn't take the time to make these settings. it's just that even if you HAVEN'T made these settings the results will still sound good at first blush. It will just sound BETTER once you have distance/polarity/phase set right.


And if you happen to have a room which is susceptible to significant Phase cancellation, getting the Phase set right WILL be noticeable in much of your listening -- more so than the subtle effect you hear during the setup with the test noise bursts would suggest would be the case.


-------------------------------------------------------


By the way, MANY posters here HAVE double-checked their ARC results with separate calibrated mics and independent measurement systems. As have quite a few of the professional reviewers.


I've done it myself.


My personal results from such checking validate what my ears are also telling me: Once I've gone through the effort to set up ARC correctly -- including the required, manual steps -- the results are simply wonderful to listen to. And the independent test graphs look pretty to boot!










--------------------------------------------------------


ETA: The AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, includes a Subwoofer Crossover test track which is useful as a simple validation that everything is set up correctly. Use this AFTER you have completed your ARC setup (including the manual parts). If you have more than one Sub, do this test with ALL of them powered. The test sends a tone to Left Front that sweeps up and down either side of the crossover frequencies. Play that with Stereo audio Mode set. The high frequency end of the sweep will play entirely in Left Front. The low frequency end will play entirely in the Subwoofers (due to the action of the crossover). If you have Phase correct for the Subs, and if ARC has done its job right trimming speaker volumes and correcting for room bass response effects, you will hear constant volume throughout the entire range of that sweep -- except for the lowest bass end which you will have trouble hearing.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

^ Wow!!

Recommended reading for all!!


Moderator- *Please* add this post to stickies ASAP.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21595237
> 
> 
> If you would prefer to hear what Dolby Volume can do for an 85dB configuration -- as if you were in a commercial theater -- then you can use the Dolby Volume CINEMA choice. Rather than requiring you to raise Main Volume, it does it for you. (Unless you misadjust its level calibration.) How useful is that? Not much, in my opinion.



Useful, I'd call it idiotic.......if one wants to turn the volume up all you have to do is 'turn the volume up', pushing a cinema mode button to bump the volume by 10dB is just plain rediculose. Especially since Dolby are extremely conscious of concept of reference level. For example, say a customer turns the volume up to 0dB to play at reference level then applies this cinema mode, you're suggesting it will play 10dB above reference.


As I've stated, that's not how it's operating in my case, maybe others can check on their units. And I've already stated reference and Dolby reference levels are set as per the user manual, in my case -1dB and 0dB respectively to attain 75dB from the built in test tones. I have also confirmed this results in correct reference level at master volume 0dB with my Sencore calibration gear and with numerous calibration discs.


So as far as I can tell the Cinema mode is not operating as you suggest. Is it possible that this Cinema mode simply applies the frequency based adjustment when master volume is reduced below reference level? In which case the ON mode basically activates the dynamic range compression based on the user set High/Low settings.

I could run some tests, as I did for Audysseys Dyn EQ, would shed more light on what's going on.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ What did you have set differently when you WERE hearing the +10dB increase from Dolby Volume Cinema? In a previous post you said you adjusted the Dolby Volume calibration level to eliminate that, but the settings you just posted don't appear to be altered like that.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21595307
> 
> 
> This is just two of MANY things ARC does not do automatically for you.
> 
> 
> ARC also doesn't wire your speakers correctly.
> 
> 
> ARC also doesn't point your speakers correctly.
> 
> 
> ARC also doesn't move your subwoofer to its optimal position in the room.
> 
> 
> ARC doesn't take any broken speakers off to be repaired.



Oh come on Bob you're just being silly. I have my D2 making Espresso in the morning. Well I did have to add an RS232 port to my Espresso machine and hack the D2 firmware but hey lets just call it an undocumented feature. I'm also trying to train Hamsters to provide clean power but that's a story for another day.










> Quote:
> My understanding is that Anthem chose not to include automatic speaker distance setting because, although it usually can be done well, when it screws up (due to room reflections for example) it screws up royally. Folks who have had good results from some other company's automatic distance adjustment system need to realize that your good result is partly due to luck. Other users may not be so lucky.



Yep been there done that. They like to come up with numbers double the actual distance.


> Quote:
> The current ARC architecture can not set Subwoofer Phase (even allowing that the user has manually set the speaker distances) because ARC only listens to one output at a time. That is, it can't hear the relative Phase between the sub and any speaker. In addition, the hardware only allows for one common signal regardless of whether you have 1, 2, 3, or 4 subwoofers wired. Which means that even if ARC were changed to compare Sub output vs., say, Left Front for Phase adjustment, it would only work properly for folks who have just one subwoofer.
> 
> 
> And NO such system can correct for problems in Subwoofer POLARITY -- essential a mismatch in wiring between subs both in front and in back of the listener. Phase controls only alter response near the crossover frequencies, whereas incorrect Polarity reverses the ENTIRE range of bass frequencies.



This is why I've been advocating for more sub channels. To heck with all these 9.1 and 11.1 systems just give me a 7.7 or at least a 7.2 system. Every time I bring it up Nick seems to think I'm talking about stereo or discrete channel bass which may or may not be of value. I really want it for the individual phase and polarity controls.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21595653
> 
> 
> ^ Wow!!
> 
> Recommended reading for all!!
> 
> 
> Moderator- *Please* add this post to stickies ASAP.



Thank you Bob for explaining everything. But I would like Anthem to explain all of this in their manual instead of just casually mentioning to play with distances and phase afterwards.


OK, this is an answer from Audyssey about proper alignment of frequencies and phases at crossover that I would be proud to read from Anthem:

To get the crossover region to be as smooth as possible, there are three things that need to happen:


1. The highpass and lowpass filters applied in the bass management system have to properly add in amplitude and phase so as to not introduce a dip or a bump.


2. The EQ filters applied to the sub and speaker must not introduce any additional phase that would alter the complex summation of the crossover.


3. The subwoofer and speaker must be time aligned for #1 to work as designed.


Audyssey takes care of #2 and #3. The AVR takes care of #1.


Sometimes, the roll off slopes of the speakers don't match the fixed slopes of the bass management filters. With MultEQ Pro, the software tries several frequencies to find the best crossover frequency that minimizes summation problems that can occur due to slope mismatch. This is done for each speaker individually.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/21596002
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> This is why I've been advocating for more sub channels. To heck with all these 9.1 and 11.1 systems just give me a 7.7 or at least a 7.2 system. Every time I bring it up Nick seems to think I'm talking about stereo or discrete channel bass which may or may not be of value. I really want it for the individual phase and polarity controls.



One of the TV makers is going to be showing off super high definition broadcast TV of the upcoming London Olympics in closed circuit to several locations around the US. If I recall correctly, the audio will be 24.8.


I think that means they'll have to have people sitting on the speakers....

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21596039
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob for explaining everything. But I would like Anthem to explain all of this in their manual instead of just casually mentioning to play with distances and phase afterwards.
> 
> 
> OK, this is an answer from Audyssey about proper alignment of frequencies and phases at crossover that I would be proud to read from Anthem.
> 
> 
> . . . .



I'm not sure why Anthem doesn't produce more white paper quality write-ups on their technology. I suspect it's more press of other work than any real desire to keep the information proprietary.


The Anthem Manuals for the D2v and AVM 50v are actually very good. Clearly they've been written/edited by people who've actually had to deal with real customers having real-world confusions about this stuff. I've read a lot of manuals that were far FAR worse -- from much bigger companies who really ought to know better.


As for ARC, I think they've got misgivings about encouraging customers to go off exploring tweaks the way we do every day in this thread. I do think some more tutorial stuff on getting the best from ARC WOULD be good in the manual.


But then, what would we have to talk about here?









--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21589252
> 
> 
> Hmm, I could run some tests to see what sort of frequency adjustments are made at the differing volumes and control levels, similar to those I did with Audysseys Dynamic EQ:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Red is reference level, each trace below that is a 10dB reduction of master volume)
> 
> 
> This clearly shows Audyssey Dyn EQ's frequency adjustment to the low and high frequencies increases as master volume is reduced. Basically, as you mentioned, a loudness curve that varies in aggressiveness depending on the volume. Note that at reference level the response is flat which means the adjustment has been reduced to nil.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Keep in mind that Dolby Volume also takes the input signal level into account - there's more to it than the volume setting.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21595711
> 
> 
> Useful, I'd call it idiotic.......if one wants to turn the volume up all you have to do is 'turn the volume up', pushing a cinema mode button to bump the volume by 10dB is just plain rediculose. Especially since Dolby are extremely conscious of concept of reference level. For example, say a customer turns the volume up to 0dB to play at reference level then applies this cinema mode, you're suggesting it will play 10dB above reference.



We have implemented Dolby Volume to the letter according to the manual, and passed Dolby certification.


The Dolby Volume manual says to apply 10 dB gain for Cinema mode, citing differences between how music and movies are typically recorded. The user controls whether the mode is on or off.


I don't have much more to say on this that hasn't been said except that searching "loudness war" on Youtube is a start.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/21596002
> 
> 
> This is why I've been advocating for more sub channels. To heck with all these 9.1 and 11.1 systems just give me a 7.7 or at least a 7.2 system. Every time I bring it up Nick seems to think I'm talking about stereo or discrete channel bass which may or may not be of value. I really want it for the individual phase and polarity controls.



In 12 years I've answered between 50 and 60 thousand tech support e-mails, among countless phone calls, both support and pre-sales, but I don't know what you're referring to because I haven't been in tech support since 2009.


If the question was why doesn't _ARC_ have two sub channels the standard answer would have been and remains that in hardware from the DSP to the gain stage to the DAC there's only one sub channel. The manual, which has the purpose of explaining setup to the average user and not being a treatise on acoustics, assumes that the user has no special tools besides a basic SPL meter and that the DIY-setup user / super-tweak who has even heard of phase alignment would get more info from wherever phase alignment was even mentioned. To go with this tech support, while happy to answer quick general-interest questions not directly related to system setup simply can't get into advanced topics. I can't tell you how many times phone calls started with "just have a quick question", progressed to "while I have you on the phone" to something bound to become a seminar if it went on any longer.


As was mentioned elsewhere in this discussion there are always tradeoffs and ARC is meant to cover a listening area not just one sweet spot. The more subs you add, the more the problem takes care of itself because more subs = more even pressure through the room.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21596320
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why Anthem doesn't produce more white paper quality write-ups on their technology. I suspect it's more press of other work than any real desire to keep the information proprietary.
> 
> 
> The Anthem Manuals for the D2v and AVM 50v are actually very good. Clearly they've been written/edited by people who've actually had to deal with real customers having real-world confusions about this stuff. I've read a lot of manuals that were far FAR worse -- from much bigger companies who really ought to know better.
> 
> 
> As for ARC, I think they've got misgivings about encouraging customers to go off exploring tweaks the way we do every day in this thread. I do think some more tutorial stuff on getting the best from ARC WOULD be good in the manual.
> 
> 
> But then, what would we have to talk about here?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



You are 99% correct and thank you for the good words about the manual. Three of us started with the AVM 2 manual (an engineer who ironically had nothing to do with the model, a marketing director who also did the layout, and myself). Sometime between the AVM 20 v2 and D1 I started doing the entire thing from composition to layout aside from the front cover photo. One time an Acrobat update killed my ability to convert the layout to pdf just before release so a coworker did that last step, which put her name in the "author" part of the pdf's Properties. This could have caused confusion as to how many people were involved.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21596725
> 
> 
> In 12 years I've answered between 50 and 60 thousand tech support e-mails, among countless phone calls, both support and pre-sales, but I don't know what you're referring to because I haven't been in tech support since 2009.



Easy Nick I wasn't talking about the current implementation, sorry. It was a discussion we had here (AVS) a couple of times over the years. I wasn't necessarily talking about ARC or the current hardware but more towards forward looking hardware designs. I have no issues the way it is implemented currently, in fact I don't trust the automated distance routines. It's more of a dream for the next generation hardware that hopefully your R&D guys will consider, that being multiple sub channels with discrete controls. Tell them Obie said it was a good idea.











> Quote:
> As was mentioned elsewhere in this discussion there are always tradeoffs and ARC is meant to cover a listening area not just one sweet spot. The more subs you add, the more the problem takes care of itself because more subs = more even pressure through the room.



Agreed and in my mind makes discrete controls even more valuable. You need to get them all in phase and in my case the sub in the rear needs it's polarity reversed to smooth it out.


----------



## dseliger

I have a D2V, Oppo BDP-93, and a JVC RS65 Projector.


I'm trying get this setup to work with a Dual HDMI output configuration.


I currently have the Oppo BDP-93 connected directly to the projector through with HDMI 1.


I have the Oppo HDMI port 2 connected to the D2V (HDMI port 2 in on the D2V).


My settings on the Oppo:

HDMI 1 (Video Only): On

Audio Format: Bitstream


I can see the video on the projector but i cannot seem to get the D2V process the audio... I tested the HDMI port on the D2V with another source and the audio comes through fine.


Does anyone have any tips? I'm probably missing one simple step...Any help would be greatly appreciated.


I just upgraded to 2.13b beta to resolve some other HDMI issues with the JVC and that didnt help either.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The most likely reason is that you've confused the two outputs on the Oppo. HDMI 1 is the output in the middle of the back panel. HDMI 2 is the output on the side of the back panel away from the power cord.


If that's not it, then you may have a bad connection of the HDMI plug into HDMI 2.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

do you have the new 3d Board in your D2V? Just asking because I could not get any HDMI inputs to work when I went to 2.13. I do not have the 3d boards.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/21597173
> 
> 
> I have a D2V, Oppo BDP-93, and a JVC RS65 Projector.
> 
> 
> I'm trying get this setup to work with a Dual HDMI output configuration.
> 
> 
> I currently have the Oppo BDP-93 connected directly to the projector through with HDMI 1.
> 
> 
> I have the Oppo HDMI port 2 connected to the D2V (HDMI port 2 in on the D2V).
> 
> 
> My settings on the Oppo:
> 
> HDMI 1 (Video Only): On
> 
> Audio Format: Bitstream
> 
> 
> I can see the video on the projector but i cannot seem to get the D2V process the audio... I tested the HDMI port on the D2V with another source and the audio comes through fine.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any tips? I'm probably missing one simple step...Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> I just upgraded to 2.13b beta to resolve some other HDMI issues with the JVC and that didnt help either.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21551046
> 
> 
> There is also applause between tracks on some music... LOL
> 
> 
> Seriously this is a very loud hiss and once again, only starts when playing 176k (multiples of 44k) material. 96k (multiples of 48k) is fine.
> 
> 
> I have e-mailed Andrew.



Further to the communication, I'm still unable to reproduce the issue. Between CD (44.1), SACD (88.2), flac (all multiples), and wav (and then some) I've tried about everything there is to try. Where hiss is present all I hear is hiss that's in the recording, with ear next to the speaker and/or volume on +10.


One example is the fade-in on Shine On You Crazy Diamond, party because it allowed an apples-to-apples comparison. I used the 176.4 kHz flac download, the 44.1 kHz wav from the CD in the Discovery set*, the CD converted to 48 kHz wav, and the flac converted to 96 kHz wav. Apparently the Oppo 93 plays 176.4 and 192 kHz flac but when it's wav there's a pause about every second so making comparisons with such wavs was largely abandoned.


I hear no notable difference in hiss level or character between any of the above, ARC on or off. Sample rate coming into the AVM 50v was verified in each case. Speaker configs were 2.1 and 7.1.


*for anyone interested, the dynamic range in the Discovery set is not as compressed as it was on the previous set, not bad at all by today's wretched standards, though it was still monkeyed with as a comparison vs the hi-res flac reveals. For SOYCD pt. 1-5 there's a 1.5 dB difference in one channel's average level and 1.8 dB in the other's. There's no reason that the CD can't have the same dynamic range as the hi-res flac but it's under the producer's control and why anyone would apply compression for a mere 1.5 dB average level "loudness war" increase is beyond me.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl* /forum/post/21596964
> 
> 
> It's more of a dream for the next generation hardware that hopefully your R&D guys will consider, that being multiple sub channels with discrete controls.



Gotcha, and it still comes back to the hardware platform. We're audio nuts with the very same dreams!


Running hardware upgrades complicate matters and everything comes back to the 80:20 rule.


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21597290
> 
> 
> do you have the new 3d Board in your D2V? Just asking because I could not get any HDMI inputs to work when I went to 2.13. I do not have the 3d boards.



I don't have the 3d board, my dealer says its still not orderable, has this changed?


Maybe i'll have to roll back again and give it another try.


----------



## dseliger




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21597280
> 
> 
> ^ The most likely reason is that you've confused the two outputs on the Oppo. HDMI 1 is the output in the middle of the back panel. HDMI 2 is the output on the side of the back panel away from the power cord.
> 
> 
> If that's not it, then you may have a bad connection of the HDMI plug into HDMI 2.
> 
> --Bob



I'm positive i'm using HDMI2 and im positive the cable and the d2v input is good, i tested it on another source.


It sounds like 2.13b without the new 3d board might be the issue?


----------



## Texas steve

I had sent a email to Nick, that when not having the 3d board for my D2v and applying 2.12W&X (did not try 2.13B) that the HDMI inputs would not work. I then went back to 2.11 and all worked again. Nick?











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/21597750
> 
> 
> I don't have the 3d board, my dealer says its still not orderable, has this changed?
> 
> 
> Maybe i'll have to roll back again and give it another try.


----------



## BladeRnR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21597779
> 
> 
> I had sent a email to Nick, that when not having the 3d board for my D2v and applying 2.12W&X (did not try 2.13B) that the HDMI inputs would not work. I then went back to 2.11 and all worked again. Nick?



I'ver had to revert to 2.11. Neither 2.12x or 2.13b worked on my Anthem D2V. To add to the confusion 2.13b works on my Brothers Non-3D Upgrade Anthem D2V but he just had the 2 Daughter Boards replaced under warranty.


Blade


----------



## Texas steve

Intersting, NIck? My ser#142118



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BladeRnR* /forum/post/21597913
> 
> 
> I'ver had to revert to 2.11. Neither 2.12x or 2.13b worked on my Anthem D2V. To add to the confusion 2.13b works on my Brothers Non-3D Upgrade Anthem D2V but he just had the 2 Daughter Boards replaced under warranty.
> 
> 
> Blade


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> do you have the new 3d Board in your D2V? Just asking because I could not get any HDMI inputs to work when I went to 2.13. I do not have the 3d boards.



I do not have the 3D board (50v manufactured in Nov 2010) and the 2.12x/2.13b work OK.


My only issues specific to the beta firmware are:

1) video gets screwed up switching to/from custom resolution

2) hissing noise on 176k material from Sony BDP


PS - thanks to Nick helping make the CustomResolutionManager utility available I am really enjoying watching blu-rays at 72Hz on my CRT PJ!


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Further to the communication, I'm still unable to reproduce the issue. Between CD (44.1), SACD (88.2), flac (all multiples), and wav (and then some) I've tried about everything there is to try. Where hiss is present all I hear is hiss that's in the recording, with ear next to the speaker and/or volume on +10.
> 
> 
> One example is the fade-in on Shine On You Crazy Diamond, party because it allowed an apples-to-apples comparison. I used the 176.4 kHz flac download, the 44.1 kHz wav from the CD in the Discovery set*, the CD converted to 48 kHz wav, and the flac converted to 96 kHz wav. Apparently the Oppo 93 plays 176.4 and 192 kHz flac but when it's wav there's a pause about every second so making comparisons with such wavs was largely abandoned.
> 
> 
> I hear no notable difference in hiss level or character between any of the above, ARC on or off. Sample rate coming into the AVM 50v was verified in each case. Speaker configs were 2.1 and 7.1.
> 
> 
> *for anyone interested, the dynamic range in the Discovery set is not as compressed as it was on the previous set, not bad at all by today's wretched standards, though it was still monkeyed with as a comparison vs the hi-res flac reveals. For SOYCD pt. 1-5 there's a 1.5 dB difference in one channel's average level and 1.8 dB in the other's. There's no reason that the CD can't have the same dynamic range as the hi-res flac but it's under the producer's control and why anyone would apply compression for a mere 1.5 dB average level "loudness war" increase is beyond me.



Nick, thanks for trying all that and also appreciate the extra insight to the Pink Floyd remastering. I got the WYWH SACD and have not played it yet because the hissing is so loud at -20 dB. All I know is Doug Sax did an amazing job on DSOTM.


I will have to roll back to v2.11 and give it a listen. I just hope that doesn't royally screw up the video processor now that I have custom res uploaded?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gotcha, and it still comes back to the hardware platform.
> 
> ...
> 
> everything comes back to the 80:20 rule.



yes let's not forget cost. You could get a Lexicon with L/R sub channels but it would cost twice a D2v!


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21597779
> 
> 
> I had sent a email to Nick, that when not having the 3d board for my D2v and applying 2.12W&X (did not try 2.13B) that the HDMI inputs would not work. I then went back to 2.11 and all worked again. Nick?



Never got to me but again I haven't been tech support for 2.5 years now, but happily assisting when I can. I don't know why v2.13b wouldn't work because the engineers check software on all hardware versions before sending it out for field tests.


To all who have tried it on 2D hardware where it's not working:


Please send the unit's serial number and any history especially board swaps since the unit left the factory to [email protected] explaining what's happening.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21598083
> 
> 
> I will have to roll back to v2.11 and give it a listen. I just hope that doesn't royally screw up the video processor now that I have custom res uploaded?



I wish I could answer but the answer should come from the engineers and I'll see to it that Andrew is up to speed on Monday.


My suspicion is that it shouldn't be an issue because the problem was getting the data into the video processor. Now that it's there and presumably saved in user settings, I don't see how it would be affected by loading different software.


eta If you have newer recordings to try it would be great. Not to put down recordings by the Abdabs but we're still talking early to mid 1970s noise floors here (exacerbated when tracks are bounced), and Dolby SR hadn't come along yet.


----------



## dseliger

I'll send my serial number in tonight, I've had serious HDMI issues for the past month or so, to the point that i cant even watch movies now. Quite frustrating, this is one of the reasons im trying to do the dual hdmi setup.


I had per-ordered my D2V so it is one of the first batches out and i haven

't had any board swaps since it left the factory.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21598153
> 
> 
> To all who have tried it on 2D hardware where it's not working:
> 
> 
> Please send the unit's serial number and any history especially board swaps since the unit left the factory to [email protected] explaining what's happening.


----------



## nycjazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21592697
> 
> 
> Make site you turn off Secondary Audio in the oppo setup menu and set Audio to Bitstream if you want up see it on the D2v display.
> 
> John



Thanks for the tip. Wow again! I was fast forwarding through the movie and the sound was ok, until I fast forwarded to the latter chapters. I waited for the sound to come, but it never did. I cycled the anthem and it came back. It did the same thing with other blu rays Im testing. Any thoughts?


Thanks!


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21595852
> 
> 
> ^ What did you have set differently when you WERE hearing the +10dB increase from Dolby Volume Cinema? In a previous post you said you adjusted the Dolby Volume calibration level to eliminate that, but the settings you just posted don't appear to be altered like that.
> 
> --Bob



I found why I'm not hearing this volume difference, as mentioned before, I use the High setting in Dolby Volume. If I turn that to OFF then this volume difference shows its head.


Basically the high DRC setting is doing its job and eliminating differences in volume. It's a little humorous that one setting in Dolby Volume eliminates the effects of another setting in Dolby Volume........almost like an internal arguement.


Sorry for badgering you on this issue Bob, I just had to get to the bottom of it given it was not presenting itself in my setup.


It's still a rediculose setting, thanks to Nick we know it's Dolby's rediculose idea and not an error.


I'd suggest this Dolby Volume Cinema mode should be mothballed and NEVER used or seen again










Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dseliger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I'm positive i'm using HDMI2 and im positive the cable and the d2v input is good, i tested it on another source.
> 
> 
> It sounds like 2.13b without the new 3d board might be the issue?



Perhaps I misread your original post. Didn't you say you first noticed this problem BEFORE going to V2.13b?


In any event, it is easy enough to revert back to confirm. V2.11 is available in the same download.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I found why I'm not hearing this volume difference, as mentioned before, I use the High setting in Dolby Volume. If I turn that to OFF then this volume difference shows its head.
> 
> 
> Basically the high DRC setting is doing its job and eliminating differences in volume. It's a little humorous that one setting in Dolby Volume eliminates the effects of another setting in Dolby Volume........almost like an internal arguement.
> 
> 
> Sorry for badgering you on this issue Bob, I just had to get to the bottom of it given it was not presenting itself in my setup.
> 
> 
> It's still a rediculose setting, thanks to Nick we know it's Dolby's rediculose idea and not an error.
> 
> 
> I'd suggest this Dolby Volume Cinema mode should be mothballed and NEVER used or seen again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers



In my testing the volume leveling works by RAISING lower volume passages. Since you are playing at 0dB Main Volume and using High leveling, I wonder if you might be running up against the Max Volume limit setting in Setup > Volumes? (Default is +10dB.)


In other words, there may be no room for Cinema mode to add its +10dB when you play stuff that loud and also crank the leveling up to 11. Any positive speaker volume trims may also play into this math.


By the way, I hope you are taking care not to damage your hearing.


I'm hoping Roger has some insight into what's intended in the design. There is precious little public documentation available anywhere on Dolby Volume. I've checked manuals from other companies.


The lag in action of high levels of leveling is a major annoyance to me. I can hear the algorithm heaving the leveling back and forth -- lagging the actual changes in the content volume. Sounds like one of those parodies where the bad lounge singer swings the hand mic closer or farther from his mouth, but gets the timing wrong.


And even on poor quality audio from TV, I find the frequency based adjustments weird -- unpleasing. So I don't even like it for casual listening.


I do a lot of low volume listening with subtitles on when testing OPPO video (I'm a Beta Tester), so I'd really love it if Dolby Volume worked well for me. But alas....

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nycjazz* /forum/post/21598702
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip. Wow again! I was fast forwarding through the movie and the sound was ok, until I fast forwarded to the latter chapters. I waited for the sound to come, but it never did. I cycled the anthem and it came back. It did the same thing with other blu rays Im testing. Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



If you lose audio due to a failed handshake it is often sufficient just to force a new handshake -- e.g., use the Resolution button on the Oppo remote to change output to 1080i and then back to 1080p.


Check that you are using the latest firmware in the Oppo and in the Anthem. By the way, the "test" firmware V2.13b does appear to be more robust in this regard, although it is still not done yet.


Try running 1080i output from the Oppo AND from the Anthem for a while. If you don't have the audio failure using 1080i but DO have it using 1080p then that suggests you need to upgrade your HDMI cabling. Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol so the problem could be the cable from the Anthem to your display.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21599119
> 
> 
> In my testing the volume leveling works by RAISING lower volume passages. Since you are playing at 0dB Main Volume and using High leveling, I wonder if you might be running up against the Max Volume limit setting in Setup > Volumes? (Default is +10dB.)
> 
> 
> In other words, there may be no room for Cinema mode to add its +10dB when you play stuff that loud and also crank the leveling up to 11. Any positive speaker volume trims may also play into this math.
> 
> 
> By the way, I hope you are taking care not to damage your hearing.
> 
> 
> I'm hoping Roger has some insight into what's intended in the design. There is precious little public documentation available anywhere on Dolby Volume. I've checked manuals from other companies.
> 
> 
> The lag in action of high levels of leveling is a major annoyance to me. I can hear the algorithm heaving the leveling back and forth -- lagging the actual changes in the content volume. Sounds like one of those parodies where the bad lounge singer swings the hand mic closer or farther from his mouth, but gets the timing wrong.
> 
> 
> And even on poor quality audio from TV, I find the frequency based adjustments weird -- unpleasing. So I don't even like it for casual listening.
> 
> 
> I do a lot of low volume listening with subtitles on when testing OPPO video (I'm a Beta Tester), so I'd really love it if Dolby Volume worked well for me. But alas....
> 
> --Bob



As mentioned, I don't use Dolby Volume when I want to crank the volume.


I find the High setting works fine for TV/PS3/Wii and late night movie viewing(-35dB to -25dB).........remembering DRC is a compromising tool







I also have the subwoofers off, and only turn them on when I don't need to compromise










Most movie viewing is between -5dB to -15dB depending on the movie and mix. Rarely will I run at 0dB, probably only a handful of times in the last year or so........ignoring short demos










I know what you mean about the lag, mostly only noticeable on action flix.


Cheers


----------



## Texas steve

2.13b was for me so I went back to 2.11 and like magic all worked again! Hope Nick figures this one out. He's been silent on it so far.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21599066
> 
> 
> Perhaps I misread your original post. Didn't you say you first noticed this problem BEFORE going to V2.13b?
> 
> 
> In any event, it is easy enough to revert back to confirm. V2.11 is available in the same download.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21598153
> 
> 
> Never got to me but again I haven't been tech support for 2.5 years now, but happily assisting when I can. I don't know why v2.13b wouldn't work because the engineers check software on all hardware versions before sending it out for field tests.
> 
> 
> To all who have tried it on 2D hardware where it's not working:
> 
> 
> Please send the unit's serial number and any history especially board swaps since the unit left the factory to [email protected] explaining what's happening.



I tried 2.12x in my AVM 50v a few weeks back and couldn't get anything out of (or maybe in to) any of my HDMIs. I reloaded 2.11 and everything worked again. I've had no hardware upgrades/replacements since I bought it.


I did inform Andrew but was told that I'd just have to await the official release of the software.


----------



## Texas steve

thanks Nick. I did talk to Andrew and he said "most of the testing has been done on the 3D boards". Again I did not try 2.13B as 2.12X had this problem, and it appears now that others see the same in 2.13B with non-3d boards.


Inputs of HDMI dont work. you do see the outpout of graphic overlay on HDMI1 (volume etc) but no output (ie input not working). Internal FM and non-HDMI inputs work. then, back to 2.11 and all works well. D2V ser#142118 1st owner, all orginal internals etc.










Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  
_Never got to me but again I haven't been tech support for 2.5 years now, but happily assisting when I can. I don't know why v2.13b wouldn't work because the engineers check software on all hardware versions before sending it out for field tests.


To all who have tried it on 2D hardware where it's not working:


Please send the unit's serial number and any history especially board swaps since the unit left the factory to [email protected] explaining what's happening._


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/21600353
> 
> 
> I tried 2.12x in my AVM 50v a few weeks back and couldn't get anything out of (or maybe in to) any of my HDMIs. I reloaded 2.11 and everything worked again. I've had no hardware upgrades/replacements since I bought it.
> 
> 
> I did inform Andrew but was told that I'd just have to await the official release of the software.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21600246
> 
> 
> 2.13b was for me so I went back to 2.11 and like magic all worked again! Hope Nick figures this one out. He's been silent on it so far.



I appreciate the info provided here, which I see only by chance when stopping by during the weekend, but your news will come from tech support (not me). I'm only involved with the 3D test group and haven't asked anyone else to load software from the password-protected site. "Official" 2D testing hasn't started.


----------



## Texas steve

understood Nick, and we apprciate all your input. I sent it to Jason, just as a FYI as they begin testing the 2D cards as well. Glad you "stop by" here!! the D2V with my 106" screen and the upcoming Super Bowl is gonna be fun!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21600419
> 
> 
> I appreciate the info provided here, which I see only by chance when stopping by during the weekend, but your news will come from tech support (not me). I'm only involved with the 3D test group and haven't asked anyone else to load software from the password-protected site. "Official" 2D testing hasn't started.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Would the prepro have been better without Dolby Volume? If some settings are extreme, avoid them. I'm sure there's a happy medium for everyone.


Preference plays a role therefore experimentation is needed. At night I listen to TV at -50 and prefer Leveler on 4. Higher than that starts to make a female news anchor sound a bit like Barry White while if lower I still have to adjust volume when channel surfing or during commercials.


These complaints are as old as 5.1 in the home:


- Transition from 5.1 to 2.0 material, be it a source change or change in material within the source, blasts the listener out of the room.


- With 5.1 material dialog is hard to hear / effects are too loud. Common and incorrect fix: Raising center channel level (some installers routinely add 3 dB... then the customer might say the surrounds and/or sub aren't loud enough). Dynamic scaling aka late night mode only works if the source is in multichannel Dolby Digital and contains scaling cues.


Today's music server version of the problem:


- When playing music in Shuffle mode you have to keep adjusting the volume (no doubt the result of loudness war).


ymmv but as far as I can tell it's within Dolby Volume to improve all of the above if used judiciously.


----------



## slots1

I got my D2v in Nov 2010 and still running on 2.1. No problems.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got my D2v in Nov 2010 and still running on 2.1. No problems.



What version of ARC are you using?

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate the info provided here, which I see only by chance when stopping by during the weekend, but your news will come from tech support (not me). I'm only involved with the 3D test group and haven't asked anyone else to load software from the password-protected site. "Official" 2D testing hasn't started.



Is Anthem planning on maintaining a separate 2D branch of the software (that is say 2.11 with DTS bugs fixed and support for CustomResManager) or carry on with one branch and ensure it is compatible with new and old hardware?


The former could answer most of the concerns on here while I could see the latter a long time coming.


----------



## mkaye

i loaded 2.11x on my D2v and had problems switching between HDMI devices (i.e. wrong colorspace)

loaded 2.13b and am not having any problems


mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i loaded 2.11x on my D2v and had problems switching between HDMI devices (i.e. wrong colorspace)
> 
> loaded 2.13b and am not having any problems
> 
> 
> mark



Lots of bug fixes between V2.11x (or any other letter) and V2.13b. Your choices at this point should ONLY be either V2.11 (no letter) or V2.13b.

--Bob


----------



## tizzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21603835
> 
> 
> Lots of bug fixes between V2.11x (or any other letter) and V2.13b. Your choices at this point should ONLY be either V2.11 (no letter) or V2.13b.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I tried 2.13b on my 50v (no 3D board) yesterday, hoping better performance for handshaking. HDMI audio was lost. Video signal was not checked, as I immediately reverted back to 2.11. Just for info.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tizzy* /forum/post/21604750
> 
> 
> Bob, I tried 2.13b on my 50v (no 3D board) yesterday, hoping better performance for handshaking. HDMI audio was lost. Video signal was not checked, as I immediately reverted back to 2.11. Just for info.



Sure, that makes sense. Presumably Anthem is working on fixing that.


My point is, don't bother trying any of the releases BETWEEN V2.11 and "test" firmware V2.13b.

--Bob


----------



## Kris Deering

I'm running V2.13b with no issues at all so far.


----------



## Texas steve

On a D2V? 3d board?[


quote=Kris Deering;21604995]I'm running V2.13b with no issues at all so far.[/quote]


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/21604995
> 
> 
> I'm running V2.13b with no issues at all so far.



I am running V2.13b om 50V with old 2d boards. I have handshake issue with my Cisco/Rogers PVR box from time to time but it is tolerable. With v2.11 I was not able to make my OPPO BDP-93 work with HDMI1:HDMI4 (top HDMI row). I guess I have newer revision 2d board as I purchased my 50v 2 months ago.


----------



## slots1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21601089
> 
> 
> What version of ARC are you using?
> 
> John



Jayray

I am away in florida until mar 4. It was whatever was on the new unit in November. I think 3.1


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jayray
> 
> I am away in florida until mar 4. It was whatever was on the new unit in November. I think 3.1



Just wondered because 3.1 had a lot of improvements.

John


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21606677
> 
> 
> On a D2V? 3d board?[
> 
> 
> quote=Kris Deering;21604995]I'm running V2.13b with no issues at all so far.



[/quote]


Yes, with the 3D boards installed. Haven't had a single hiccup yet with any material or resolution. Feeding it from several Blu-ray players at various refresh rates and resolutions.


----------



## tizzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21606844
> 
> 
> I am running V2.13b om 50V with old 2d boards. I have handshake issue with my Cisco/Rogers PVR box from time to time but it is tolerable. With v2.11 I was not able to make my OPPO BDP-93 work with HDMI1:HDMI4 (top HDMI row). I guess I have newer revision 2d board as I purchased my 50v 2 months ago.



Mine is one of the very 1st generation bought April 2009 .... So Anthem did some changes during that time, I assume.


----------



## oyvindmo

So... In a large part thanks to this thread and its inhabitants, I decided to buy a D2v, so I'm now a proud Anthem owner! I was able to locate a second-hand specimen for sale, which doesn't happen often here in Norway, so I pulled the trigger on it even if it was old and out of warranty. Have read nothing but good words about Anthem's build quality and upgradeability, so I'm not too worried.


Now, time to set it up. Bet there will be further posts...










Btw, anything in particular I should check or do with an "unknown" D2v? I'm going to reset to factory settings before connecting anything, I guess, but is there anything else?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Check which firmware is in it (press Select once on remote). Update the firmware as needed. Reset Factory Defaults. Turn Room EQ (i.e., ARC) *OFF* for every Source in Setup > Source Setup until you have a chance to Upload your own ARC solution. Get a flashlight and check each HDMI socket for any signs of pin damage. Check the ARC install disc to see that it is labeled as matching the unit and the ARC mic that came with the unit for the two serial numbers. Press Select multiple times until the unit serial number shows in the front panel. Compare against the sticky label on the back panel (they could be different if the unit had a board swapped out during service at any point.

--Bob


----------



## oyvindmo

Thanks, Bob, that's very helpful indeed!


It is running 2.08. I'll try upgrading to 2.10 now. Fingers crossed










Edit: But of course, I don't have any computers with RS-232... I just ordered the Keyspan that was mentioned here earlier, so the updates and ARC will have to wait I guess.


Edit 2: On the other hand: No visible HDMI socket issues, and serial numbers are matching for both ARC and the unit itself. Goody!


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oyvindmo* /forum/post/21611315
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob, that's very helpful indeed!
> 
> 
> It is running 2.08. I'll try upgrading to 2.10 now. Fingers crossed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: But of course, I don't have any computers with RS-232... I just ordered the Keyspan that was mentioned here earlier, so the updates and ARC will have to wait I guess.
> 
> 
> Edit 2: On the other hand: No visible HDMI socket issues, and serial numbers are matching for both ARC and the unit itself. Goody!




And

If you did not get User manual download the current one from Anthem's website.


----------



## AVfile

When you get up and running with Blu-ray you will need to adjust the volume trims for DTS-HD Master Audio. The problem is the front speakers are 3 dB too low. You need to raise the FRONT trim +3.0 and lower CENTER trim -3.0


This is fixed in the beta software (v2.12+)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oyvindmo* /forum/post/21611315
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob, that's very helpful indeed!
> 
> 
> It is running 2.08. I'll try upgrading to 2.10 now. Fingers crossed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: But of course, I don't have any computers with RS-232... I just ordered the Keyspan that was mentioned here earlier, so the updates and ARC will have to wait I guess.
> 
> 
> Edit 2: On the other hand: No visible HDMI socket issues, and serial numbers are matching for both ARC and the unit itself. Goody!


----------



## TJG55

FYI,


After prior ARC run, got RG of 2.9xxx, somewhat concerned with this. Have seldom seen this in many runs, so changed RG to 3.9xxx. After several hrs of listening, reverted to original ARC setting. No contest! Learned my lesson and learned it well. (Sorry, Carly)

Don't fool with ARC. it knows best.

TJG


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21616121
> 
> 
> FYI,
> 
> 
> After prior ARC run, got RG of 2.9xxx, somewhat concerned with this. Have seldom seen this in many runs, so changed RG to 3.9xxx. After several hrs of listening, reverted to original ARC setting. No contest! Learned my lesson and learned it well. (Sorry, Carly)
> 
> Don't fool with ARC. it knows best.
> 
> TJG



You changed it back to 2.9xxx because 3.9xxx was too bassy, boomy, or ....? Also, what is your room like? Is it treated? How large is it?


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21616258
> 
> 
> You changed it back to 2.9xxx because 3.9xxx was too bassy, boomy, or ....? Also, what is your room like? Is it treated? How large is it?



I am having plus minus 6Db in bass by simply varying the speaker (subwoofer) distance. As ARC is not helping you to align phases of your speakers (distance, phase), you have to do it manually. By the way, I got much smoother response curve by changing the cutoff frequency for my mains, center and subwoofer to be the same. But all those settings and variations are really dependent on your room acoustics and speakers. But changing the speaker distance (left, right and subwoofer) can have dramatic effect on final sound and it is not controlled by ARC.


----------



## dmusoke

Does anyone know when we'll get the new official FW upgrade? I'm still running 2.10c, the version that came with my new D2v 1 year ago. What is the latest and most stable version out there?


----------



## p.las

helle.

i have a odd problem. i am running my AVM50v witt actice M&K monitors. for the last 14 days witt RCA connectors. last night i switced to balanced cable. I then have run a new measurement from ARC. the intern testtone reads 75db on my radioshack. the graph also reads 75db. so everrything seams to bee right. but witt movie content the overall volume is much higher. i had my avm for one year, an it is fantastic. i am using the right proces to calibreding. Any surgestion i what cut be the problem


regards Peter

Denmark


----------



## AVfile

Balanced signals are 6 dB higher. I don't know what ARC is doing, but it seems to be working.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21619143
> 
> 
> Balanced signals are 6 dB higher. I don't know what ARC is doing, but it seems to be working.



but ARC shut compensate for that, when it sets the trim levels.


so what you saing is. that i shut turn down the master volume 6db to compensate? ore....?


----------



## TJG55

N 12

Dead on soundwise. Room is not treated but is quite open. Not a large house but several rooms open into main room. As a long time Anthem dealer, I have been running ARC since the beginning and normally RG is 3.9xxx or somewhat close. Have run mine many times before and always got 2.9xxx. Thought it might be some inherent bug ( I have a level readout discrepancy). I was wrong! ARC was correct. Very obvious. Using D-2 and Servo 15 v2.

TJG


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> but ARC shut compensate for that, when it sets the trim levels.
> 
> 
> so what you saing is. that i shut turn down the master volume 6db to compensate? ore....?



Maybe ARC does not compensate if all the channels are equally raised. It could have just raised the sub 6bB to match. Note there is a limit to how far the internal trims can go, which is why an SPL meter should be used to set the initial sub level to 75 dB (see section 3.5 of the user manual).


If you've done everything properly and it is too loud, you will have to turn down the master volume. Many solid-state amps just have too much gain. Some amps like Bryston have adjustable gain or a switch that cuts it by 6dB for exactly this reason.


----------



## SimonNo10

I decided to redo ARC after having the main boards replaced etc so here are my results.


Now I don't get any room gain and I have experimented with adding some like 1.5 or even 2.0 but it really effects the front left speaker and right surround speakers, where the correction curve drops below the target curve allot. I have listened to a few Blu-Rays and noticed that I tend to hear more from the left surround and the right, seems like it's receiving less info than the left surround.


My room is not a dedicated one but I do have sound panels on the sides of the room plus 3 diffusor ceiling panels, all installed by Accoustic Vision who came out and performed measurements etc so there not just thrown anywhere







. I did like the sound when I introduced the room gain (2.0) but after picking up rear surround issue I decided to redo ARC and leave it.


Any thoughts on wether I should add room gain and what value and until it really starts to effect the curve to the point of stopping? I am in 2 minds with changing the sub to flat from Auto as it really doesn't change the results as much. I was running it with Flat but now I'm thinking of just leaving things as ARC has set by default which is Auto.


----------



## SimonNo10

Here is the graph with the sub setting set to Flat. Thoughts on which one I should choose Auto or Flat?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21632480
> 
> 
> I decided to redo ARC after having the main boards replaced etc so here are my results.
> 
> 
> Now I don't get any room gain and I have experimented with adding some like 1.5 or even 2.0 but it really effects the front left speaker and right surround speakers, where the correction curve drops below the target curve allot. I have listened to a few Blu-Rays and noticed that I tend to hear more from the left surround and the right, seems like it's receiving less info than the left surround.
> 
> 
> My room is not a dedicated one but I do have sound panels on the sides of the room plus 3 diffusor ceiling panels, all installed by Accoustic Vision who came out and performed measurements etc so there not just thrown anywhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I did like the sound when I introduced the room gain (2.0) but after picking up rear surround issue I decided to redo ARC and leave it.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on wether I should add room gain and what value and until it really starts to effect the curve to the point of stopping? I am in 2 minds with changing the sub to flat from Auto as it really doesn't change the results as much. I was running it with Flat but now I'm thinking of just leaving things as ARC has set by default which is Auto.



With the exception of no room gain, your charts are good. If you have the option of moving your sub around to different locations, I think you should experiment with that. Your sub has a dip from 35 Hz to 60 Hz that you should try to eliminate or reduce. You can use Quick Measure (QM) to see what's the impact of moving your sub around to different locations. When you added the 2db of room gain, your other speakers were fine; but, ARC was not able to fully correct your sub because of the dip from 35 Hz to 60 Hz; but, it wasn't far off from fully correcting your sub. So as for room gain, I would not go any higher than 2.0. So, my suggestion would be to definitely try to eliminate or reduce the dip in your sub. If you do play around with different sub positions, you will have to rerun ARC. If you find that the sub is in the best position now after using QM as you move the sub around, you will have to re-upload your ARC results because QM resets the things that ARC previously set.


I hope this was helpful.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> When you added the 2db of room gain, your other speakers were fine



Thanks for the reply. What about the front left and right surround? The correction curve drops below the target curve a bit. Would that be audible? As for the 2 subs (Seaton Submersives) I'm very limited in where they can go and I did use QM and had them under my screen with one on each side and the results were bad. I have them currently on the right side along a wall as when I only had one, the results were quite good. Someone here suggested that I stack them and use QM and see what I get. I live alone so I personally can't lift one of these subs myself. Will get around to experimenting but I have read that when you have 2 subs one should be at the front and one at the back. Of course every room is different and wont work for everyone. Here is a site that I visit regulary and the question was asked and post 2 has a link to a pdf where extensive testing was performed:

http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?showtopic=99375


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21632499
> 
> 
> Here is the graph with the sub setting set to Flat. Thoughts on which one I should choose Auto or Flat?



In addition to what others have said, i'd make sure the subs are phase matched with each other. This ensures they wouldn't have opposing resonant modes where they cancel each other out at certain frequencies.They would then play as one sub. Afterwards, you'll phase match this 'one' sub with the mains using the subwoofer distance method in ARC (see the link in my signature for details).The effort is and very audible definately worth it.


As to AUTO or FLAT, i always prefer FLAT...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21632480
> 
> 
> I decided to redo ARC after having the main boards replaced etc so here are my results.
> 
> 
> Now I don't get any room gain and I have experimented with adding some like 1.5 or even 2.0 but it really effects the front left speaker and right surround speakers, where the correction curve drops below the target curve allot. I have listened to a few Blu-Rays and noticed that I tend to hear more from the left surround and the right, seems like it's receiving less info than the left surround.
> 
> 
> My room is not a dedicated one but I do have sound panels on the sides of the room plus 3 diffusor ceiling panels, all installed by Accoustic Vision who came out and performed measurements etc so there not just thrown anywhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I did like the sound when I introduced the room gain (2.0) but after picking up rear surround issue I decided to redo ARC and leave it.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on wether I should add room gain and what value and until it really starts to effect the curve to the point of stopping? I am in 2 minds with changing the sub to flat from Auto as it really doesn't change the results as much. I was running it with Flat but now I'm thinking of just leaving things as ARC has set by default which is Auto.



IMO, since you have a huge 6dB null between 100 - 300Hz and ARC has done a remarkable job of filling in the null, you have a net gain of zero. If you could re-position the speakers to eliminate this null, maybe by moving them back a bit to take advantage of natural room gain, then ARC would give you the gain you're looking for ...


But in all seriousness, first listen to what you have now... and if you don't like it, then improve it as suggested above.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21635800
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. What about the front left and right surround? The correction curve drops below the target curve a bit. Would that be audible? As for the 2 subs (Seaton Submersives) I'm very limited in where they can go and I did use QM and had them under my screen with one on each side and the results were bad. I have them currently on the right side along a wall as when I only had one, the results were quite good. Someone here suggested that I stack them and use QM and see what I get. I live alone so I personally can't lift one of these subs myself. Will get around to experimenting but I have read that when you have 2 subs one should be at the front and one at the back. Of course every room is different and wont work for everyone. Here is a site that I visit regulary and the question was asked and post 2 has a link to a pdf where extensive testing was performed:
> 
> http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?showtopic=99375



I wouldn't worry about the small correction that ARC was unable to do because 1) the speaker's volume is being attenuated, 2) The complete correction is only about 1 db off from being fully corrected which the human ear can't hear, and 3) Your sub has kicked in and is taking over the load in that area.


As for your subs, you have very capable subs; but, unfortunately, they are not playing nice with each other. The only way to fix that problem is to move them to different locations. Having multiple subs is a good thing as long as they play nice with each other. It takes work sometimes to make them play nice which I think you will have to do. Anyway, since you are limited in the location of your subs, I guess you will have to live with what you have and make do.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21636075
> 
> 
> 
> But in all seriousness, first listen to what you have now... and if you don't like it, then improve it as suggested above.



I agree with this statement 100%. It's good to listen for a while, like a week or 2, just to develop a baseline before doing any tweaking. This will allow you to have something to compare to.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21636101
> 
> 
> I agree with this statement 100%. It's good to listen for a while, like a week or 2, just to develop a baseline before doing any tweaking. This will allow you to have something to compare to.



Or get a calibrated microphone and some free software like HOLM impulse. You will find out many interesting things about your system and ARC itself.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> In addition to what others have said, i'd make sure the subs are phase matched with each other. This ensures they wouldn't have opposing resonant modes where they cancel each other out at certain frequencies.They would then play as one sub. Afterwards, you'll phase match this 'one' sub with the mains using the subwoofer distance method in ARC (see the link in my signature for details).The effort is and very audible definately worth it.



Thanks. The subs do not have any dials for phase adjustment. I have read your method for setting distances using the Null method so when you say LF are you referring to the Front Left speaker? Also the external noise source (to generate signals) depends on what ARC sets my speakers to which so what frequency do I have going when using the SPL meter? I went into the menu and looked at the speaker settings and the sub is set to 85kz even though it says 120 on the chart.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21636299
> 
> 
> Thanks. The subs do not have any dials for phase adjustment. I have read your method for setting distances using the Null method so when you say LF are you referring to the Front Left speaker? Also the external noise source (to generate signals) you refer to can the one generated by the D2v be sufficient or is that what your referring to anyway? I'm a little confused.



Yes, LF = Left front speaker.


For the noise source, i used a shareware test tone generator ( http://www.esseraudio.com/test-tone-...st-factor.html )


The test frequencies used are the ones around the crossover set by ARC. If its set to 80Hz, i'd start using test frequencies from 60 - 100Hz in 5Hz increments. I have an Excel app to help with this. PM me if you want it.


As you have no phase adjustments on the subs (and i believe you said they are heavy) then do the best to get the most even frequency response using Quick Measure in the positions you are able to move them into.


I have two suggestions on how to phase match them with the mains.


1. Treat both subs as one sub and perform the phase match as written in my link. This is valid whether the subs are closely spaced together on the same side of the room.


2. Phase match each speaker seperately and note the optimal distances for each. They should be multiples of the longest room wavelength, e.g if you find a null at 10ft for the 1st sub, you could also find one at 20', 30', 40' etc as an example.


Then find the distance that seems to best overlap both speakers. You could find that the 2nd sub has nulls at 11', 22' 33' etc. I then would find the average distance of (10+11)/2 = 10.5' and put that as my final subwoofer distance number in ARC. (Note that this distance could be vastly different from the actual physical distance of the subs to your listening position. That's OK for we are talking about logical distances here anyways).


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Yes, LF = Left front speaker



Ok will pm you as I have further questions which may not be fully related to the Anthem. Thanks for you assistance so far.


----------



## johnfusco

Hey guys, Quick question. I just purchased a D2v and I have a SVS AS-EQ1 Sub EQ in my setup do I need to turn it off before I run ARC or should I just let ARC take care of all the LFE and not even use the sub EQ. Thanks for any input


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnfusco* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys, Quick question. I just purchased a D2v and I have a SVS AS-EQ1 Sub EQ in my setup do I need to turn it off before I run ARC or should I just let ARC take care of all the LFE and not even use the sub EQ. Thanks for any input



I think people have suggested using the sub EQ and then to run ARC.

John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnfusco* /forum/post/21639965
> 
> 
> Hey guys, Quick question. I just purchased a D2v and I have a SVS AS-EQ1 Sub EQ in my setup do I need to turn it off before I run ARC or should I just let ARC take care of all the LFE and not even use the sub EQ. Thanks for any input



Personnally I set my sub eq to pass through, run ARC and then tweak with the eq. I never thought of doing it the other way around and will give it a try.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Personnally I set my sub eq to pass through, run ARC and then tweak with the eq. I never thought of doing it the other way around and will give it a try.



That's how I did my Sub 25 using PBK. First PBK, then ARC.

John


----------



## johnfusco

 Attachment 237184 

Attachment 237185 


How do they look guys?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnfusco* /forum/post/21641240
> 
> Attachment 237184
> 
> Attachment 237185
> 
> 
> How do they look guys?



Did you use a sound level meter to set the levels before running ARC ?

Your levels are too high. They should be set at 75db per the ARC Manual.


Did you also set the level on your sub and did you turn off the crossover or crossover bypass on your sub . It should be capable of going lower.


----------



## johnfusco




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21641828
> 
> 
> Did you use a sound level meter to set the levels before running ARC ?
> 
> Your levels are too high. They should be set at 75db per the ARC Manual.
> 
> 
> Did you also set the level on your sub and did you turn off the crossover or crossover bypass on your sub . It should be capable of going lower.



I did spl all the speakers to 75db and set the sub 3db higher before running Arc.







I have the sub crossover on bypass. All the ports are open on the SVS thats why I'm only getting down to 20hz but getting more spl out of them that way.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnfusco* /forum/post/21642175
> 
> 
> I did spl all the speakers to 75db and set the sub 3db higher before running Arc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the sub crossover on bypass. All the ports are open on the SVS thats why I'm only getting down to 20hz but getting more spl out of them that way.



ARC has removed or I should say compensated for some pretty significant dips and peaks between 100 and 200 hz on all your speakers.

The system should sound much better.


All your speakers look 10db too high. They are at 85db when they should be at 75db.

Your sub output has dropped off significantly below 40hz.

I would suggest you redo ARC and reset the levels following the manual or Bob P setup advice from the front page of the forum.

Make sure your sound level meter is set at C level and slow reading.

And do not bump your sub up 3db before the setup. You can always bump the output afterwards with the sub or the D2v remote.

If you repost your latest ARC run post the Target page too.


----------



## studlygoorite

He may be one of the lucky few like myself in that even though we set our volume at 75dbs with out SPL Meter our ARC results are 10db off. Mine are 10db lower but I think I read that someone was 10 db higher a while ago. If this is the case, then Bob and Anthem have stated that it is just a glitch and there is nothing to worry about.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/21644226
> 
> 
> He may be one of the lucky few like myself in that even though we set our volume at 75dbs with out SPL Meter our ARC results are 10db off. Mine are 10db lower but I think I read that someone was 10 db higher a while ago. If this is the case, then Bob and Anthem have stated that it is just a glitch and there is nothing to worry about.



If I am correct the glitch is only when you set the ARC levels with a Sound level meter at 75db and the results are at 65db. That has do with a graphing error not a real bug in the level. If you are spending $3000 to 7000 for a processor and maybe some have to buy the ARC separately why would you not buy a sound level meter to set the levels precisely ?

You measure everything else ? Distance,etc.


----------



## TJG55

Stud

Have the same situation, display levels on D-2 are 10db too low. Any fix you know of?

TJG


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Stud
> 
> Have the same situation, display levels on D-2 are 10db too low. Any fix you know of?
> 
> TJG



There is no fix simply put, it has no effect on sound levels, just looks odd on the charts.

John


----------



## johnfusco

The setup sounds really good I almost don't want to rerun Arc! To change the way it sounds! But I guess I will because I want Arc to be done right..


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21644844
> 
> 
> If I am correct the glitch is only when you set the ARC levels with a Sound level meter at 75db and the results are at 65db. That has do with a graphing error not a real bug in the level. If you are spending $3000 to 7000 for a processor and maybe some have to buy the ARC separately why would you not buy a sound level meter to set the levels precisely ?
> 
> You measure everything else ? Distance,etc.



Did he not say he set the levels with a SPL Meter? The only problem I see is that he raised the volume of his sub with the D2v. Am I missing something?


----------



## johnfusco

 Attachment 237273


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/21645990
> 
> 
> Did he not say he set the levels with a SPL Meter? The only problem I see is that he raised the volume of his sub with the D2v. Am I missing something?



Yes he did say he set the spl. He did not say how he did the level setup.


There has to be something amiss as I have never seen anyone with levels too high


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnfusco* /forum/post/21646104
> 
> Attachment 237273



Thanks for the targets. There may be a problem with your LF and RF speaker cutoffs in the target.


The Paradigm Signature S8 v.3 Mains are full range speakers ( 41Hz-22kHz) and they should have a lower cutoff than your surrounds or your Paradigm Signature C5 v.3 center which is a horizontal S8.


----------



## johnfusco




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21646656
> 
> 
> Thanks for the targets. There may be a problem with your LF and RF speaker cutoffs in the target.
> 
> 
> The Paradigm Signature S8 v.3 Mains are full range speakers ( 41Hz-22kHz) and they should have a lower cutoff than your surrounds or your Paradigm Signature C5 v.3 center which is a horizontal S8.



I did think it was odd that it set the mains at 65hz, center at 60hz and surrounds at 60hz. It also set the sub crossover at 65hz but the weird thing is the my system never sounded better..


----------



## johnfusco




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21646605
> 
> 
> Yes he did say he set the spl. He did not say how he did the level setup.
> 
> 
> There has to be something amiss as I have never seen anyone with levels too high



There's also another guy who had similar results page 1002 post #30032


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnfusco* /forum/post/21647261
> 
> 
> I did think it was odd that it set the mains at 65hz, center at 60hz and surrounds at 60hz. It also set the sub crossover at 65hz but the weird thing is the my system never sounded better..



This is not right. These are great full range speakers and a great sub in a good room with some audio acoustic wall coverings.


I would start all over from scratch and check every item and remeasure.

Set the speaker distances and redo all the sound levels individually with a sound level meter.

If you are using SVS to set up the sub do that before ARC.

Then post your charts and targets without any additional modifications.


----------



## johnfusco




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21650382
> 
> 
> This is not right. These are great full range speakers and a great sub in a good room with some audio acoustic wall coverings.
> 
> 
> I would start all over from scratch and check every item and remeasure.
> 
> Set the speaker distances and redo all the sound levels individually with a sound level meter.
> 
> If you are using SVS to set up the sub do that before ARC.
> 
> Then post your charts and targets without any additional modifications.



Will do. I'll rerun everything over the weekend and follow the Guidelines from the fist page of this thread. I'll post up the new charts. Thanks


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21650382
> 
> 
> This is not right. These are great full range speakers and a great sub in a good room with some audio acoustic wall coverings.
> 
> 
> I would start all over from scratch and check every item and remeasure.
> 
> Set the speaker distances and redo all the sound levels individually with a sound level meter.
> 
> If you are using SVS to set up the sub do that before ARC.
> 
> Then post your charts and targets without any additional modifications.



IMHO ARC is doing exactly what is supposed to, and doing it right. Look at his charts, his main LR speakers have big dips between 60 and 100 hz, while his sub is measuring really flat in most of that range. Using the sub in that range makes a lot of sense.


I have a LARGE pair of main speakers (GR Research LS-6's) that are capable of prodigous bass output down to 20 hz. But just like Johnfusco, my dual subs play much flatter in the low bass frequencies than my mains. My ARC crossover settings are much like his, even a little higher, and like Johnfusco said, it sounds great! When I first ran ARC on this setup several years ago, like you I thought this couldn't be right. I tried re-measuring, changing cross over settings, ARC vs no ARC, and in the end I decided that ARC knew best, and that's what sounds and works the best for me. People with large mains and a good sub(s) are often surprised with the ARC crossover settings, but I think ARC is usually, if not always right. Where we locate our main speakers is usually counter productive to flat bass. Using our subs for the low end is actually good news for us, as it takes pressure off our main speaker amps, and lets the sub amps share the load. More power for what the mains do well is always a good thing. In ARC I trust.


----------



## johnfusco

I saved the existing settings. So I guess the test will be if I get similar results when I rerun Arc.


----------



## jamulian

I have the AVM50.

A post a few pages back there was a reference to dolby volume control which referred to on, off, and cinema. I cannot find this setting on my unit or in the manual. I can only find "dynamics" (normal, reduced & late night). Is this the same as on, off, cinema?

Thank you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the AVM50.
> 
> A post a few pages back there was a reference to dolby volume control which referred to on, off, and cinema. I cannot find this setting on my unit or in the manual. I can only find "dynamics" (normal, reduced & late night). Is this the same as on, off, cinema?
> 
> Thank you.



Dolby Volume is only on the D2v and AVM 50v. Not on the original AVM 50.

--Bob


----------



## bekindrewind

Seems when putting in a new dvd/blu-ray or switching a dvd/blu-ray in the oppo BDP-83, the D2v will not always handshake ok.


I may hear the sound and no picture, or picture no sound, or no picture/sound.

I've try switching from DVD to another input, like TV, then back to DVD on the D2v front panel and sometimes it works. Sometimes I'll try it 2-3 times and it doesn't work. I've also turned the D2v off and on, some times that works sometimes not.


The D2v does trigger the amp on every time.


This is a problem that has just started. What gives?


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bekindrewind* /forum/post/21652532
> 
> 
> Seems when putting in a new dvd/blu-ray or switching a dvd/blu-ray in the oppo BDP-83, the D2v will not always handshake ok.
> 
> 
> I may hear the sound and no picture, or picture no sound, or no picture/sound.
> 
> I've try switching from DVD to another input, like TV, then back to DVD on the D2v front panel and sometimes it works. Sometimes I'll try it 2-3 times and it doesn't work. I've also turned the D2v off and on, some times that works sometimes not.
> 
> 
> The D2v does trigger the amp on every time.
> 
> 
> This is a problem that has just started. What gives?



Try the lower HDMI row for inputs or beta 13b firmware. I had same things with my new 50v. Changing to lower row of HDMI inputs helped with OPPO BDP-83. Updating the firmware to the latest beta fixed HDMI handshake with upper row too (but introduced minor handshake issues with my Rogers/Cisco HD PVR).


----------



## xMEATx

Any recommendations for a HDMI over 35 feet?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any recommendations for a HDMI over 35 feet?



Monoprice or Blue Jean cables. My monoprice 45' cable works with 1080p/24 3D and everything else.

John


----------



## dkojevnikov

I am curious, Anthem AVM-50V does not do up-conversion of its sources (unline D2V). But I am listening my music through some Windows-based HTPC. Will I get better sound if I set HTPC to upconvert everything to 24/96KHz? I am using XBMC on HTPC which has manual setting for up-conversion. Or I can simply upsample all my flacs to 96/24 with Foobar2000. I tried it with my CDs and I definitely hear the difference but I am not sure which one is better or close to original.


My question is probably to those who know the DACs used in 50V (AKM AK4382s if it is true that they are the same as in AVM-20). Do they sound better with 44KHz/16bit input (for example, they are applying some de-emphasis for 44Hz and 48Hz) or 96Khz/24bit input? I read that some DACs sound much better if fed with frequencies higher than 44/48KHz.


----------



## bekindrewind




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21652934
> 
> 
> Try the lower HDMI row for inputs or beta 13b firmware. I had same things with my new 50v. Changing to lower row of HDMI inputs helped with OPPO BDP-83. Updating the firmware to the latest beta fixed HDMI handshake with upper row too (but introduced minor handshake issues with my Rogers/Cisco HD PVR).



Thank you.


I am running the current version v2.10 on the D2v.

What is beta 13b?


I get information on my TV screen (volume up/down) when using the top HDMI out, but not the second lower HDMI out on the D2v. Is that correct, or should I get info on the second one too?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bekindrewind* /forum/post/21654480
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> I am running the current version v2.10 on the D2v.
> 
> What is beta 13b?
> 
> 
> I get information on my TV screen (volume up/down) when using the top HDMI out, but not the second lower HDMI out on the D2v. Is that correct, or should I get info on the second one too?



That is exactly as designed.


As for your black screen problem, what have you got the RGB/YCbCr output option on the Oppo BDP set to? I had problems playing DVD when it was set to AUTO (but I was using Sony BDP at the time). YCbCr 4:2:2 worked best.


Generally you will get faster, more reliable handshakes if you minimize use of any "auto" settings. That includes color space, deep color bit depth, etc. These are things that once you settle on a combination that works best for you, should not need to change anyway.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bekindrewind* /forum/post/21654480
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> I am running the current version v2.10 on the D2v.
> 
> What is beta 13b?
> 
> 
> I get information on my TV screen (volume up/down) when using the top HDMI out, but not the second lower HDMI out on the D2v. Is that correct, or should I get info on the second one too?



I meant lower HDMI row for input, not output. You should use HDMI2 output to have an overlay menu, lower HDMI output does not have this feature. On my 50v with firmware 2.11 I was not able to make OPPO BDP-93 work reliably, in 90% I was getting either black screen or no sound. When I plugged it into a lower row HDMI in, those issues disappeared. Then I asked Anthem customer service for latest beta v2.13b firmware. With this firmware I got my OPPO to work with upper HDMI row too (but got more problems with Cisco HD PVR). So basically it is a firmware issue (HDCP handshake) and probably a lot of these issues will be resolved when Anthem releases a newer firmware (or new 3d HDMI board). But you may have another issue, so just try the lower HDMI row for your OPPO and see if there is any difference. If it does not help you can try to get a newer firmware from Anthem. They are reluctant to give it but they will finally do it if you insist.


----------



## jamulian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21651700
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume is only on the D2v and AVM 50v. Not on the original AVM 50.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the reply.

MY BAD!

I do have the AVM50v.

Can you tell me where I can find dolby volume on my unit.

I could not find it in the manual.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamulian* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> MY BAD!
> 
> I do have the AVM50v.
> 
> Can you tell me where I can find dolby volume on my unit.
> 
> I could not find it in the manual.



It's in Setup > Source Setup for each Source. There's also a calibration setting in Level Calibration.


You can download an updated manual from Anthem's web site.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21645072
> 
> 
> There is no fix simply put, it has no effect on sound levels, just looks odd on the charts.
> 
> John



Jayray,

That is exactly what is happening. Sound level display of D-2 is reading 10db too high. In other words, when display is reading 0db, it is really -10db. I fully realize it has no discernable effect on SQ....just bugs me.

tjg


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21659438
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> That is exactly what is happening. Sound level display of D-2 is reading 10db too high. In other words, when display is reading 0db, it is really -10db. I fully realize it has no discernable effect on SQ....just bugs me.
> 
> tjg



I know, it would probably bug me too









John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/21659438
> 
> 
> Jayray,
> 
> That is exactly what is happening. Sound level display of D-2 is reading 10db too high. In other words, when display is reading 0db, it is really -10db. I fully realize it has no discernable effect on SQ....just bugs me.
> 
> tjg





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21659628
> 
> 
> I know, it would probably bug me too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



tjg,


Just to make sure I'm understanding you correctly. Are you sayng that you need to turn your volume to +0db (as shown on your front panel or on screen display) to acheive the same volume level that you used to acheive at -10db?


If I remember correctly you also had ARC charts that ran across a line lower than 75db.


Just wondering if these two anomolies are somehow connected.


As you said, it doesn't affect SQ, so its really no big deal, but I'm wondering if people who's ARC readings run along lines other than 75db, either lower like your's or higher (like the many people who are at 85db) need to adjust their actual volume settings to compensate? And if there may be another setting in the Anthem's setup that may be causing these anomolies.


Just out of curiosity, have you changed the settings in the 'main max vol' in your setup menu?


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21663352
> 
> 
> tjg,
> 
> 
> Just to make sure I'm understanding you correctly. Are you sayng that you need to turn your volume to +0db (as shown on your front panel or on screen display) to acheive the same volume level that you used to acheive at -10db?
> 
> 
> If I remember correctly you also had ARC charts that ran across a line lower than 75db.
> 
> 
> Just wondering if these two anomolies are somehow connected.
> 
> 
> As you said, it doesn't affect SQ, so its really no big deal, but I'm wondering if people who's ARC readings run along lines other than 75db, either lower like your's or higher (like the many people who are at 85db) need to adjust their actual volume settings to compensate? And if there may be another setting in the Anthem's setup that may be causing these anomolies.
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity, have you changed the settings in the 'main max vol' in your setup menu?
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom,

I think there may be some confursion. I am referring to the anomolie on the ARC charts which show something other than 75 dB. This has no affect on the sound levels when listening to movies or music played at the same display levels on the front panel.

John


----------



## johnfusco

 Attachment 237624 

Attachment 237625 

Attachment 237626 



I reran Arc last night and followed BP setup guidlines word for word. Got similar results..


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnfusco* /forum/post/21664020
> 
> Attachment 237624
> 
> Attachment 237625
> 
> Attachment 237626
> 
> 
> 
> I reran Arc last night and followed BP setup guidlines word for word. Got similar results..



The only issue that I see is with your Right Surround (RS). You have close to a 20db null from 90 Hz to 200 Hz. If it's possible to play around with positioning a little for your RS, then that might be worth trying to reduce or eliminate the dip. However, ARC brought it to within about 3db of complete correction, so, I wouldn't worry about it too much if you really can't do much with it.


If your sub has LFE Protection, then you should set your sub to Flat. If you set your sub to Flat, you will not have to rerun ARC. Just OK the Advanced Window, OK the Targets' Window, Calculate, Save your ARC File, and Upload it.


The big question is, how do your ears like what they are hearing? Regardless of how your charts look, your ears are the final judge above all other things.


BTW, what version of ARC are you running? I'm only asking because I don't see the Reference Level Offset and the sub setting of Auto for your sub in the main view.


----------



## johnfusco

My right surround is wall mounted so there's not much flexablity. Everything sounds great, so I guess thats what matters. I believe I'm running the latest version of Arc 3.0.2


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21663655
> 
> 
> Tom,
> 
> I think there may be some confursion. I am referring to the anomolie on the ARC charts which show something other than 75 dB. This has no affect on the sound levels when listening to movies or music played at the same display levels on the front panel.
> 
> John



John,


I understand about the anomoly with ARC graphs showing other than 75db, even when sound level is set to 75db with an spl meter.

But it sounded to me like TJG55 was saying that he needed to adjust his actual volume +10db to get the same listening level. I may have mis understood. TJG55 can clarify if he wants.


Just a little history. A while back when I was setting my 'noise level' in the 'level calibration' section of my D2 setup with my spl I was unable to raise the level to 75db. The D2 would not let me go higher than 72db because the 'noise level' would not let me adjust enough to get to 75db spl reading.

After checking with Anthem tech (and on this thread) about my problem, I still could not figure out why I could not adjust 'sound level' enough to get it right.

After going thru all my settings I noticed tthat I had set the 'max vol' setting to -10db (the default setting is +10db) because I didn't want someone to accidentally blow out my speakers. When I reset the 'max vol' to +10db I was able to set the 'noise level' enough to get it to 75db easily. So it seems that the 'max vol' does affect 'noise level'.


I'm just wondering if the ARC anomoly is tied to a 'max vol' setting other than the default setting of +10db.


Since it doesn't affect SQ, its really not important. But it is odd how some of us have ARC readings at 75db and others at 65db or 85db, when we have all set our 'noise level' to 75db. It doesn't make sense and it kind of bugs me also.

Just curious if it has anything to with the 'max vol' setting.


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> I understand about the anomoly with ARC graphs showing other than 75db, even when sound level is set to 75db with an spl meter.
> 
> But it sounded to me like TJG55 was saying that he needed to adjust his actual volume +10db to get the same listening level. I may have mis understood. TJG55 can clarify if he wants.
> 
> 
> Just a little history. A while back when I was setting my 'noise level' in the 'level calibration' section of my D2 setup with my spl I was unable to raise the level to 75db. The D2 would not let me go higher than 72db because the 'noise level' would not let me adjust enough to get to 75db spl reading.
> 
> After checking with Anthem tech (and on this thread) about my problem, I still could not figure out why I could not adjust 'sound level' enough to get it right.
> 
> After going thru all my settings I noticed tthat I had set the 'max vol' setting to -10db (the default setting is +10db) because I didn't want someone to accidentally blow out my speakers. When I reset the 'max vol' to +10db I was able to set the 'noise level' enough to get it to 75db easily. So it seems that the 'max vol' does affect 'noise level'.
> 
> 
> I'm just wondering if the ARC anomoly is tied to a 'max vol' setting other than the default setting of +10db.
> 
> 
> Since it doesn't affect SQ, its really not important. But it is odd how some of us have ARC readings at 75db and others at 65db or 85db, when we have all set our 'noise level' to 75db. It doesn't make sense and it kind of bugs me also.
> 
> Just curious if it has anything to with the 'max vol' setting.
> 
> 
> Tom



I don't think they are related as far as I know because I had that anomoly with one version of ARC but it didn't affect vol. levels and nothing changed in my setup settings. Now I'm back to 75dB.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnfusco* /forum/post/21664325
> 
> 
> My right surround is wall mounted so there's not much flexablity. Everything sounds great, so I guess thats what matters. I believe I'm running the latest version of Arc 3.0.2



Cool....Well, since it sounds great, you are done. Now, sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor.


----------



## johnfusco

 Attachment 237650 

Attachment 237651 

Attachment 237652 


Thanks Ninja!! You where right.. It wasnt the latest version of Arc..







I pulled a rookie move.. It being my first time using Arc.







Trial and error I guess.. Thanks everone for the help and input!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnfusco* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Niga!! You where right.. It wasnt the latest version of Arc..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I pulled a rookie move.. It being my first time using Arc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trial and error I guess.. Thanks everone for the help and input!



Try setting the sub to Flat in the advanced menu as long as your sub can play below 20Hz at high volume. Just save that file change and upload.

John


----------



## johnfusco




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21665062
> 
> 
> Try setting the sub to Flat in the advanced menu as long as your sub can play below 20Hz at high volume. Just save that file change and upload.
> 
> John



Ok will do.. Thanks


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnfusco* /forum/post/21665155
> 
> 
> Ok will do.. Thanks



To add one more thing to what jayray said about your sub and setting it to Flat. Also, make sure your sub has LFE Protection. LFE Protection is a mechanism that the sub has to prevent it from playing below its' limits for the low frequencies. For example, if your sub will play down to 15 Hz, then its' protective mechanism will kick in and not play any frequencies that are below 15 Hz. The Flat setting will cause ARC to pass all the low frequencies to your sub which gives you a little more oomph. The Auto setting will cause ARC to roll off the low frequencies as they begin to reach the lower limits of what your sub can play.


----------



## johnfusco




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21666243
> 
> 
> To add one more thing to what jayray said about your sub and setting it to Flat. Also, make sure your sub has LFE Protection. LFE Protection is a mechanism that the sub has to prevent it from playing below its' limits for the low frequencies. For example, if your sub will play down to 15 Hz, then its' protective mechanism will kick in and not play any frequencies that are below 15 Hz. The Flat setting will cause ARC to pass all the low frequencies to your sub which gives you a little more oomph. The Auto setting will cause ARC to roll off the low frequencies as they begin to reach the lower limits of what your sub can play.



Thanks for the explanation. I was wondering what the difference between auto and flat settings is. Thanks again.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The 50v has different DACs - not sure if they can run at 196k or are limited to 96k.
> 
> 
> edit: We know the 50v does not upsample to 192k like the D2v but don't know if it downsamples 192k to 96k before hitting the DACs or if the DACs do this inherently. Right now the display does seem to indicate that is the case (example: INPUT 176k = OUTPUT 96k) but I don't recall if it did this with my original 2.10 firmware. I will have to downgrade and try it.
> 
> 
> Anyway I think something is up with recent firmware. I used to play high-res multi-ch PCM (SACD converted to 176k by Sony BDPs770) and it sounded glorious! The last time I tried a SACD was with v2.10.
> 
> 
> Now (2.12x) I get a "grating" treble (distorted upper-mid?) and crushed dynamics as if waveforms are being cut off. It's most noticeable as a resonance on piano or vibraphone.
> 
> 
> No problem with DD or DTS or low-res LPCM from movies. Only with 5.1 LPCM 176kHz so far. I don't have any 192k DVDA or BD. Can anyone else try this?



You might want to do another arc measurement. It sounds like a tweeter or driver problem possibly.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You might want to do another arc measurement. It sounds like a tweeter or driver problem possibly.



I did try that incidentally but that's not it. The distortion was fixed by Anthem in 2.13b but now there is a hissing noise. It's only with Sony SACD at 176k PCM. 88k and 96k PCM and other formats are fine.


----------



## terryshep

hi could someone look at my charts please


does the sub look of as its the Paradigm Reference Signature Sub 25


thanks for any help


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/21677558
> 
> 
> hi could someone look at my charts please




Have you posted them ?

Be sure and include the targets also


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/21677558
> 
> 
> hi could someone look at my charts please
> 
> 
> does the sub look of as its the Paradigm Reference Signature Sub 25
> 
> 
> thanks for any help



Your charts look good. The only problem I see, and the reason that ARC set the cutoff for your sub to 85 Hz, is the null that you have from 60 Hz to 100 Hz. You should use Quick Measure to help you find a better location for your sub to eliminate or reduce the null. Once you do that, ARC will set the cutoff for your sub to 120 Hz which is the goal, and your sub's chart will look even better.


jayray has a Sub25, and here's a link to what his sub looks like after using PBK. You should try to achieve the same thing if you can.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...3&d=1308688275


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> hi could someone look at my charts please
> 
> 
> does the sub look of as its the Paradigm Reference Signature Sub 25
> 
> 
> thanks for any help




Check the MRX thread's FAQ, second post, to see what a Sub 25 can do with good positioning, PBK and the ARC.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21677991
> 
> 
> Check the MRX thread's FAQ, second post, to see what a Sub 25 can do with good positioning, PBK and the ARC.
> 
> John



I included the link to your sub in my post.







I didn't think you would mind at all.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I included the link to your sub in my post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't think you would mind at all.



I completely missed your post and no I don't mind that's why it's there









John


----------



## dmusoke

Someone remind me again why we need room gain and why ARC implements it?


----------



## TJG55

Jayray, Tom,

Yes, my charts are centered on 65db, although pre ARC levels were set to approx 75db. Tom, you are correct...a D-2 readout of 0db is really -10db.


TJG


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21670679
> 
> 
> I did try that incidentally but that's not it. The distortion was fixed by Anthem in 2.13b but now there is a hissing noise. It's only with Sony SACD at 176k PCM. 88k and 96k PCM and other formats are fine.



Anyone using a Sony blu-ray player with SACD or SACD player with HDMI please PM me.


----------



## Bruceko

Any news On the D2V 3D? I thought it was supposed to be released mid January. or is it 2013?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Last word we had is that they are in the final stages of securing HDMI Certification.

--Bob


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/21684890
> 
> 
> Any news On the D2V 3D? I thought it was supposed to be released mid January. or is it 2013?



2014 is more like it........


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21677991
> 
> 
> Check the MRX thread's FAQ, second post, to see what a Sub 25 can do with good positioning, PBK and the ARC.
> 
> John



Isn't the idea that with ARC you don't need PBK?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds* /forum/post/21685694
> 
> 
> Isn't the idea that with ARC you don't need PBK?



That's not necessarily true. I always recommend to use ARC first. If it looks like ARC is having a hard time fixing some trouble frequency areas and you are limited in sub locations, then I would suggest the usage of the sub's EQ to fix the trouble areas and then re-run ARC. However, I always suggest trying different sub locations first to resolve a problem; but, it that doesn't do the trick, then it's time to use the sub's EQ and then re-run ARC on top of that.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> that's not necessarily true. I always recommend to use arc first. If it looks like arc is having a hard time fixing some trouble frequency areas and you are limited in sub locations, then i would suggest the usage of the sub's eq to fix the trouble areas and then re-run arc. However, i always suggest trying different sub locations first to resolve a problem; but, it that doesn't do the trick, then it's time to use the sub's eq and then re-run arc on top of that.



+1


----------



## hoehne

I was reading a review of the Anthem D2 and ARC at the following website and got pulled into the building of this reviewers music room. http://www.ultraaudio.com/twbas/twbas_20080715.htm 


One thing in particular that caught my attention was how he addressed a room mode or standing wave by adjusting the phase of his subwoofer to effectively cancel out the standing wave frequency. He could do this this because his main speakers were full range to 20 Hz and with subwoofer placement and phase adjustment could cancel out the 27 and 40 something modes.


This was in one of the internal links and posted her for reference. http://www.ultraaudio.com/twbas/twbas_20051215.htm 



This seems counter intuitive to me and the other informaiton posted so many times regarding proper alignment of phase and spending extra effort to get speakers and and subwoofers in phase for better, crisper, and cleaner reproduction.


I am sure I am missing some small detail, but given the reviewer's expertise and the hired professional he had come in, I would think their method was valid, but just curious how this compares to all the discussions previously on phase adjustment and if there should be a further discussion of when proper phase is required vs. when it can help with room accoustics.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^ Last word we had is that they are in the final stages of securing HDMI Certification.
> 
> --Bob



They must be busy. I have sent dozens of emails to tech support about various issues unrelated to the new hardware, which I find very time consuming, to no avail.


----------



## teachdocs

Greetings. I am pretty new for posting to the forum, but have been reading and searching for some time. I finally decided to do my first software update.

I installed 2.10 per forum advice and it seemed to go well.

Since the update, my Pany TC-P65V10 will not display 1920x1080P at 60. It will only flicker an image occasionally. It will display an image at 1920x1080P at 24 but seems to have some subtle stutter and choppy movement in the content. The Pany has a setting to handle 24 at 48,60, or 96. The 48 is no good, the 60 and 90 are better but still seem to occasionally stutter.

Prior to the update, the image was displayed perfectly on the Pany at the 60 rate. I have rechecked all of the cables and connectors.

The native resolution for this Pany is 1920x1080.

Any ideas on what might be going on?

Should I try to reinstall the 2.10 again?

Thanks for any and all suggestions!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *teachdocs* /forum/post/21697334
> 
> 
> Greetings. I am pretty new for posting to the forum, but have been reading and searching for some time. I finally decided to do my first software update.
> 
> I installed 2.10 per forum advice and it seemed to go well.
> 
> Since the update, my Pany TC-P65V10 will not display 1920x1080P at 60. It will only flicker an image occasionally. It will display an image at 1920x1080P at 24 but seems to have some subtle stutter and choppy movement in the content. The Pany has a setting to handle 24 at 48,60, or 96. The 48 is no good, the 60 and 90 are better but still seem to occasionally stutter.
> 
> Prior to the update, the image was displayed perfectly on the Pany at the 60 rate. I have rechecked all of the cables and connectors.
> 
> The native resolution for this Pany is 1920x1080.
> 
> Any ideas on what might be going on?
> 
> Should I try to reinstall the 2.10 again?
> 
> Thanks for any and all suggestions!



The most likely explanation is that you bumped the HDMI cables when setting up to do the firmware install with the RS-232 cable.


Make sure all the HDMI plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket, with nothing (e.g. cable weight) tugging the plug in any direction. Check both ends of each cable. HDMI plugs are just friction fit and it only takes a small shift in the socket to make the connection marginal.


Next got into the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" button) and bring up one of the full screen Patterns displays. These are generated independent of any Source device input. Do you get good 1080p/60 output that way. If so, then your problem is on the Source side. If not, double check that you restored your Video Output Configuration settings properly after the firmware install. I recommend you use an explicit data format (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of Auto. Also check the Deep Color bit size setting. See if 8 bit works better with your display.

--Bob


----------



## teachdocs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The most likely explanation is that you bumped the HDMI cables when setting up to do the firmware install with the RS-232 cable.
> 
> 
> Make sure all the HDMI plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket, with nothing (e.g. cable weight) tugging the plug in any direction. Check both ends of each cable. HDMI plugs are just friction fit and it only takes a small shift in the socket to make the connection marginal.
> 
> 
> Next got into the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" button) and bring up one of the full screen Patterns displays. These are generated independent of any Source device input. Do you get good 1080p/60 output that way. If so, then your problem is on the Source side. If not, double check that you restored your Video Output Configuration settings properly after the firmware install. I recommend you use an explicit data format (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of Auto. Also check the Deep Color bit size setting. See if 8 bit works better with your display.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Thanks for the prompt reply. I had already double checked the cables as you said.

My particular issue had to do with the deep color bit setting you suggested. It was set on Auto. It will only display 1080p60 correctly when set to either 10 or 8 bit.

I now have it set to 10 bit deep color and 4:4:4 with a great picture!

Thanks again for such a rapid response to my problem.

I will have to post my ARC graphs and see what you think.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *teachdocs* /forum/post/21697434
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for the prompt reply. I had already double checked the cables as you said.
> 
> My particular issue had to do with the deep color bit setting you suggested. It was set on Auto. It will only display 1080p60 correctly when set to either 10 or 8 bit.
> 
> I now have it set to 10 bit deep color and 4:4:4 with a great picture!
> 
> Thanks again for such a rapid response to my problem.
> 
> I will have to post my ARC graphs and see what you think.



Great! That Deep Color bit setting was a late addition to the firmware, so it makes sense that you got the default Auto choice since you might not have had it in your earlier firmware.


NOTE: The fact that 10 bit works but 12 bit does not suggests you might need to upgrade your HDMI cable to the display. Check the owner's thread for your display to see if other folks are reporting problems with 12 bit. 10 and 12 bit put more signal bandwidth on the cable, which can lead to problems if the cable is marginal.


By the way, the problem with /24 and certain Panasonic models is pretty much a given. The fact that the 48Hz setting is working so poorly is a sign that you may have one of those models. Check the owner's thread for your model. Using only /60 to the display may be your best bet if so.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Great! That Deep Color bit setting was a late addition to the firmware, so it makes sense that you got the default Auto choice since you might not have had it in your earlier firmware.
> 
> 
> NOTE: The fact that 10 bit works but 12 bit does not suggests you might need to upgrade your HDMI cable to the display. Check the owner's thread for your display to see if other folks are reporting problems with 12 bit. 10 and 12 bit put more signal bandwidth on the cable, which can lead to problems if the cable is marginal.
> 
> 
> By the way, the problem with /24 and certain Panasonic models is pretty much a given. The fact that the 48Hz setting is working so poorly is a sign that you may have one of those models. Check the owner's thread for your model. Using only /60 to the display may be your best bet if so.
> 
> --Bob



My panasonic plasma stutters on 48Hz. It's a VT25. On 60Hz it works perfectly, It's a well known issue.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21697504
> 
> 
> My panasonic plasma stutters on 48Hz. It's a VT25. On 60Hz it works perfectly, It's a well known issue.
> 
> John



Yes, and I believe that the models that have THAT problem with the 48Hz setting also generate false contours (banding) if you use the 96Hz setting.


Which basically means that /24 input to them is a flop. Use /60 and be happy.


(Before anyone asks, I don't know which Panasonic models or model years are subject to this, so check the owner's thread for your model.)

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, and I believe that the models that have THAT problem with the 48Hz setting also generate false contours (banding) if you use the 96Hz setting.
> 
> 
> Which basically means that /24 input to them is a flop. Use /60 and be happy.
> 
> 
> (Before anyone asks, I don't know which Panasonic models or model years are subject to this, so check the owner's thread for your model.)
> 
> --Bob



Correct on the 96Hz as well.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21697475
> 
> 
> Great! That Deep Color bit setting was a late addition to the firmware, so it makes sense that you got the default Auto choice since you might not have had it in your earlier firmware.
> 
> 
> NOTE: The fact that 10 bit works but 12 bit does not suggests you might need to upgrade your HDMI cable to the display. Check the owner's thread for your display to see if other folks are reporting problems with 12 bit. 10 and 12 bit put more signal bandwidth on the cable, which can lead to problems if the cable is marginal.
> 
> 
> By the way, the problem with /24 and certain Panasonic models is pretty much a given. The fact that the 48Hz setting is working so poorly is a sign that you may have one of those models. Check the owner's thread for your model. Using only /60 to the display may be your best bet if so.
> 
> --Bob



Where is the deep color setting in the Anthem menu? I'm running version 2.10c and can't seem to find it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Where is the deep color setting in the Anthem menu? I'm running version 2.10c and can't seem to find it.



Video Output Configuration > Output


See Section 3.1 in the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## teachdocs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21697475
> 
> 
> Great! That Deep Color bit setting was a late addition to the firmware, so it makes sense that you got the default Auto choice since you might not have had it in your earlier firmware.
> 
> 
> NOTE: The fact that 10 bit works but 12 bit does not suggests you might need to upgrade your HDMI cable to the display. Check the owner's thread for your display to see if other folks are reporting problems with 12 bit. 10 and 12 bit put more signal bandwidth on the cable, which can lead to problems if the cable is marginal.
> 
> 
> By the way, the problem with /24 and certain Panasonic models is pretty much a given. The fact that the 48Hz setting is working so poorly is a sign that you may have one of those models. Check the owner's thread for your model. Using only /60 to the display may be your best bet if so.
> 
> --Bob



Prior to the addition of a deep color bit setting, what bit rate was used? Just wondering, since my display worked great prior to this update. That would suggest it was no higher than 10 bit because that is all that works now. The cables are all the same before and after the update.

Same with the 24 settings: seemed to work fine without stutter before the update. The only time I would send a /24 to the display was certain blue ray content and it worked well on the Pany at any setting (24,48,96). I need to confirm that with the update at 10 bit, that a /24 Anthem output will display correctly at any Pany /24 setting.

Good idea about the cables.....it may be that they "seemed" fine before. I may have been only using 10 bit but But now need an upgrade to in fact carry the 12 bit. The HDMI setup currently involves 3 cables and 2 wall plate adapters. The in-wall cable is 15 ft if I remember correctly, while the other two are 3 footers. It would be extremely difficult to replace the in wall HDMI cable.


----------



## shah993

Hi! I am upgrading from the original D2 to the Dv2.Last post about the 3D upgrade said that it was in the final stages.Anybody heard anything more?My dealer in Montreal could not tell me the ETA either.


----------



## rovingtravler

Is the factory still upgrading D2s to D2vs? I thought that program ended.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is the factory still upgrading D2s to D2vs? I thought that program ended.



There was never an actual upgrade. What there was was a factory sponsored trade in program. That is no longer available. Your best bet is to sell your D2 privately (e.g., Audiogon) or work a deal with your dealer for trade in.

--Bob


----------



## shah993

I meant to say trade.Sorry.


----------



## E.S.A.

Hi, I'm sure has been asked and answered before. I have a D2 with the ARC kit and in the past I had no problem running Arc on XP. However, last night I loaded from disk v1.2.5 to a windows 7 laptop, it found the D2 but I kept receiving the notice;" Measurement Procedure Failed, Failed to initalize wave audio capture device".

I tried the "Windows 7 ARC configuration for setting up the mic". No luck with that. The D2 does not even attempt to produce any sweep tones, It usually turns it self off. I don't remember how many times the D2 would turn on and off during the discovery process prior to starting the ARC measurments.

I don't know what the issue is, I loaded the driver for my Keyspan adapter as well. I had'nt ran ARC in years till I tried last night, I moved my speakers around a bit. I'm guessing Windows 7 may have something to do with it. I know v1.2.5 did work with XP with no problems.


So, any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *E.S.A.* /forum/post/21701451
> 
> 
> Hi, I'm sure has been asked and answered before. I have a D2 with the ARC kit and in the past I had no problem running Arc on XP. However, last night I loaded from disk v1.2.5 to a windows 7 laptop, it found the D2 but I kept receiving the notice;" Measurement Procedure Failed, Failed to initalize wave audio capture device".
> 
> I tried the "Windows 7 ARC configuration for setting up the mic". No luck with that. The D2 does not even attempt to produce any sweep tones, It usually turns it self off. I don't remember how many times the D2 would turn on and off during the discovery process prior to starting the ARC measurments.
> 
> I don't know what the issue is, I loaded the driver for my Keyspan adapter as well. I had'nt ran ARC in years till I tried last night, I moved my speakers around a bit. I'm guessing Windows 7 may have something to do with it. I know v1.2.5 did work with XP with no problems.
> 
> 
> So, any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.



The first thing to do is go to the Anthem website and download ARC 3.0.2, the latest ARC firmware. There are some pretty cool features like 'Quick Measure' and the ability to set your sub to 'flat' that you may find very helpful.

Then you will need to load the original ARC disc that came from Anthem with your ARC kit. In it are 2 files that contain your D2 serial# and mic serial #. One is a CAL file and the other a FILE file. You will need to copy those files to your new ARC folder.


Some of the more computer literate on this thread can help you more, but you really should download the most recent ARC 3.0.2 from the Anthem website. There have been a number of improvements since 1.2.5.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *E.S.A.* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi, I'm sure has been asked and answered before. I have a D2 with the ARC kit and in the past I had no problem running Arc on XP. However, last night I loaded from disk v1.2.5 to a windows 7 laptop, it found the D2 but I kept receiving the notice;" Measurement Procedure Failed, Failed to initalize wave audio capture device".
> 
> I tried the "Windows 7 ARC configuration for setting up the mic". No luck with that. The D2 does not even attempt to produce any sweep tones, It usually turns it self off. I don't remember how many times the D2 would turn on and off during the discovery process prior to starting the ARC measurments.
> 
> I don't know what the issue is, I loaded the driver for my Keyspan adapter as well. I had'nt ran ARC in years till I tried last night, I moved my speakers around a bit. I'm guessing Windows 7 may have something to do with it. I know v1.2.5 did work with XP with no problems.
> 
> 
> So, any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.



The version of ARC you are trying to run does not support Windows 7 -- as you've found out.


Use Windows Add/Remove programs to uninstall that version. Reboot.


Get the latest version of ARC from the Anthem site. Unzip that. Find the pair of ARC licensing and mic calibration files on your original ARC install CD and copy them into the unzipped stuff in the same place as the Setup.exe program (the installer). Then run Setup.exe to install the new ARC. Reboot again.


You should now be good to go.

--Bob


----------



## E.S.A.

Thanks for the quick replies, I did go to Anthem's site and saw the newest ARC file,however, from what I read it did'nt seem to support the D2, justD2v and everything else. How do I find the needed files on the disk that came with the ARC kit? I'm running v1.33 in the D2, I assume that too is far outdated as well. I suppose I now need to know how to find the serialized files on the disk.


Thanks again!

Ps. Its good to see that you're still around here Bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *E.S.A.* /forum/post/21701705
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick replies, I did go to Anthem's site and saw the newest ARC file,however, from what I read it did'nt seem to support the D2, justD2v and everything else. How do I find the needed files on the disk that came with the ARC kit? I'm running v1.33 in the D2, I assume that too is far outdated as well. I suppose I now need to know how to find the serialized files on the disk.
> 
> 
> Thanks again!
> 
> Ps. Its good to see that you're still around here Bob



The latest version of ARC works for all hardware D2 included.

1.33 is the latest firmware fr the d2.


As Tom said the files have numbers in the file name. These numbers are your serial numbers for the mic and D2. and the extensions are .cal and .file


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. Been giving some more thought into improving the bass response in my room by implementing some bass traps. The company that I deal with for treatments is this one:

http://www.acousticvision.com.au/ 


The traps that I'm interested in are these:

http://www.acousticvision.com.au/RPG...4/Default.aspx 


I received an e-mail from the contact there for specs and they are:

*For the 40 L we should get about 35 – 62 Hz with the XX mm port and 65 – 96 Hz with the YY mm port

For the 80 L we should get about 25 – 42 Hz with the XX mm port and 40 – 60 Hz with the YY mm port*


My ARC results are here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8260&page=1201 *Post 36004*. Running without any room gain.


Without going too much off topic here is it worth me going down this path as I cannot reposition the subs or speakers? Please feel free to PM me as I don't want to take this thread too much off topic.


----------



## E.S.A.

Thanks.

How do I find the serial# files within the ARC program? I just keep opening the program itself. The only other stuff in

Anthem Statement folder is the ARC-1 manual pdf, D2 operating manual pdf, RS 232 commands and the room correction program itself and when I click on it, it starts. So, I don't know where to look.


----------



## E.S.A.

Opps, I think I've found it.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21700019
> 
> 
> There was never an actual upgrade. What there was was a factory sponsored trade in program. That is no longer available. Your best bet is to sell your D2 privately (e.g., Audiogon) or work a deal with your dealer for trade in.
> 
> --Bob



Are there any more AVM-20/30 HD upgrade kits around?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21704201
> 
> 
> Are there any more AVM-20/30 HD upgrade kits around?



No idea, but if it isn't shown on the Anthem web site, odds are they are no longer available.

--Bob


----------



## chileboy

Hi - I am just starting to setup my AVM 50 ARC (yes, it's brand new) - when I tried to run the Setup, it crashes out with an error about a system policy preventing the installation of the Visual C++ Runtime Libraries - don't know why that would be the case, and I am logged into an admin account in any case. I tried downloading the latest software 3.0.2 as described below, but one of the first questions Setup asks is your model, and of course the AVM 50 is not listed.


Does that matter, i.e., should I just claim to have the 50v?


Many thanks,


- Mark



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21451934
> 
> 
> On your loss of picture/sound, I think the odds are excellent that you disturbed some other cables when you fiddled with that Center speaker output.
> 
> 
> On ARC, yes you will need to install the ARC application to view the file.
> 
> 
> You will need a Windows PC computer running XP or later. If you are getting something new, you might as well get Windows 7. Avoid Windows Vista. Many people use inexpensive laptop computers. You don't need anything fancy in the way of graphics, audio, or processing on the PC. The Anthem itself generates the test tones used by the ARC setup, and the ARC application uses a standard Windows feature to input the mic data. The rest is just computation.
> 
> 
> The PC will need a USB port for attaching the ARC mic cable. The PC will also need a serial (RS-232) connection to go to the Anthem. Many people do that by using a SECOND USB port on the PC along with the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/serial adapter. Plug the adapter into the computer and run the serial cable from the adapter to the back of the Anthem. If you don't have the Keyspan adapter already in your ARC kit (I don't think Anthem was distributing them back when you got your AVM 40), you can buy it at Amazon or even direct from Anthem. Accept no substitutes. Use just that specific Keyspan adapter. Your ARC kit will include the microphone cable. It should also include the necessary serial cable.
> 
> 
> Now, your AVM 40 is old. And that means the ARC software on your install CD is old. To avoid problems, I'm going to suggest you *NOT* install the software from the ARC install CD.
> 
> 
> And that means you need to do a few additional steps.
> 
> 
> First, download the ARC V3.0.2 install kit from Anthem:
> 
> http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-...pport/software
> 
> 
> That link is from Anthem's page for the D2v, but no matter. The ARC install kit is the same for all Anthem processors. (You just need the ARC kit. Don't download the D2v firmware!)
> 
> 
> UnZip that downloaded file on your Windows PC and you will end up with a folder. Browse into that folder and find the program Setup.Exe. That's the installer.
> 
> 
> Now insert your original ARC install CD. If the Installer on the CD starts up automatically just quit out of it. Now browse into that CD and find the Setup.Exe program on the CD. In that same folder on the CD you will find two files with names made up of numbers. The numbers are the Serial Number of your AVM 40 and the Serial Number of your ARC mic. The two files are your ARC license and the individualized calibration data for your ARC mic.
> 
> 
> Copy both of those files from the CD into the place where you found Setup.Exe in the downloaded ARC V3.0.2 stuff.
> 
> 
> You can now eject the CD. You are done with it.
> 
> 
> Run Setup.Exe in the downloaded version. It will install ARC V3.0.2 and also copy your ARC license and mic calibration files into the correct location. It will add a "shortcut" icon on your Windows desktop which you can use to launch the ARC application itself.
> 
> 
> In the future, you can just download and install new ARC versions without having to do the extra steps with those two files. They will simply carry over from the prior install of ARC.
> 
> 
> Once you have ARC installed, reboot your Windows PC.
> 
> 
> Now, find that file you got from the dealer. Right Click on it and select Properties from the Pop Up menu. Then select Read Only. Then click Apply. Then click OK. You've just write protected that file to make sure you don't accidentally alter it while getting familiar with ARC.
> 
> 
> Now you can double-click on that file and it will open in ARC and you can view your ARC charts and Targets window.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy* /forum/post/21704409
> 
> 
> Hi - I am just starting to setup my AVM 50 ARC (yes, it's brand new) - when I tried to run the Setup, it crashes out with an error about a system policy preventing the installation of the Visual C++ Runtime Libraries - don't know why that would be the case, and I am logged into an admin account in any case. I tried downloading the latest software 3.0.2 as described below, but one of the first questions Setup asks is your model, and of course the AVM 50 is not listed.
> 
> 
> Does that matter, i.e., should I just claim to have the 50v?
> 
> 
> Many thanks,
> 
> 
> - Mark



Yes, select 50v.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21701804
> 
> 
> Hi guys. Been giving some more thought into improving the bass response in my room by implementing some bass traps. The company that I deal with for treatments is this one:
> 
> http://www.acousticvision.com.au/
> 
> 
> The traps that I'm interested in are these:
> 
> http://www.acousticvision.com.au/RPG...4/Default.aspx
> 
> 
> I received an e-mail from the contact there for specs and they are:
> 
> *For the 40 L we should get about 35 - 62 Hz with the XX mm port and 65 - 96 Hz with the YY mm port
> 
> For the 80 L we should get about 25 - 42 Hz with the XX mm port and 40 - 60 Hz with the YY mm port*
> 
> 
> My ARC results are here:
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8260&page=1201 *Post 36004*. Running without any room gain.
> 
> 
> Without going too much off topic here is it worth me going down this path as I cannot reposition the subs or speakers? Please feel free to PM me as I don't want to take this thread too much off topic.



Adding bass traps cannot hurt, they tighten up your bass. I just installed 4 and have 5 more to go.


----------



## cosmos5861

I have not use this unit for over 1 1/2 years. I want to sell it. Where is the best place to sell this unit? it is great condition.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosmos5861* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have not use this unit for over 1 1/2 years. I want to sell it. Where is the best place to sell this unit? it is great condition.



In the US, Audiogon and in Canada, canuckaudiomart.com.

John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Adding bass traps cannot hurt, they tighten up your bass. I just installed 4 and have 5 more to go.



That's the idea but I'm space limited so corner traps are my best option. The 40L trap costs $495 and the 80L is $595 (Australian dollars). Can only afford 2 at the moment but not sure which type?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21698901
> 
> 
> Video Output Configuration > Output
> 
> 
> See Section 3.1 in the Manual.
> 
> --Bob



Guess 12-bit is deep color ...Should have known that. Thanks Bob!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21701804
> 
> 
> Hi guys. Been giving some more thought into improving the bass response in my room by implementing some bass traps. The company that I deal with for treatments is this one:
> 
> http://www.acousticvision.com.au/
> 
> 
> The traps that I'm interested in are these:
> 
> http://www.acousticvision.com.au/RPG...4/Default.aspx
> 
> 
> I received an e-mail from the contact there for specs and they are:
> 
> *For the 40 L we should get about 35 - 62 Hz with the XX mm port and 65 - 96 Hz with the YY mm port
> 
> For the 80 L we should get about 25 - 42 Hz with the XX mm port and 40 - 60 Hz with the YY mm port*
> 
> 
> My ARC results are here:
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8260&page=1201 *Post 36004*. Running without any room gain.
> 
> 
> Without going too much off topic here is it worth me going down this path as I cannot reposition the subs or speakers? Please feel free to PM me as I don't want to take this thread too much off topic.



Simon:


I still think you need to get rid of the huge 6dB suckout you have from 100-300Hz (see post #36009), the region where room gain is applied. Do your speakers have a toom gain switch? IF so, try moving it in the opposite position and see how that goes.


BTW, how did the speaker phase matching process we talked about go?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I still think you need to get rid of the huge 6dB suckout you have from 100-300Hz (see post #36009), the region where room gain is applied. Do your speakers have a toom gain switch?



No my speakers don't have that option. These are the front 3 speakers that I'm running:

http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/triple-8ht/ 


These for rears:

http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/slanted-8/ 



Regarding the phase for the subs, I set the distance that you suggested going by the excel document but I will redo the procedure again as I didn't disconnect all the other speakers from the power amp as suggested. Do you think adding 2 bass traps will assist in the 100-300hz issue?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21706263
> 
> 
> That's the idea but I'm space limited so corner traps are my best option. The 40L trap costs $495 and the 80L is $595 (Australian dollars). Can only afford 2 at the moment but not sure which type?



You would only want the bass traps in the corners, even where the wall meets the ceiling. I think you are going down the right path, as for the RPG Modex Corner, I am not familiar with them but have looked at them in the past. I decided to go the DIY route.


----------



## Stevetd

Hey all, I need some quick advice. I finally found a second used JL F212 (with my DefTech 7001's that makes six 12' subs woohoo!







) to go in my system and was going to update my ARC and D2v software from 3.0.1 and 2.10 to 3.0.2 and 2.13b and then run ARC again but, it failed loading the D2v software. I did the flash erase and still nothing. It just hangs at Updating EEPROM". I'm running Windows 7 and using the serial to USB that is recommended on here. I have company coming this weekend arrrggghhh! Any suggestions. Thanks.


----------



## Stevetd

It now appears to be DOA......


It won't power up, and the Anthem software no longer can recognize it. I've unplugged everything twice. I guess that what I get for f'n with it at a critical time. I should have known better. Oh well.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/21713960
> 
> 
> It now appears to be DOA......
> 
> 
> It won't power up, and the Anthem software no longer can recognize it. I've unplugged everything twice.



Have you thought about picking up the PHONE and calling Anthem Tech Support?


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21713968
> 
> 
> Have you thought about picking up the PHONE and calling Anthem Tech Support?



Yes I have. Thanks for the sarcasm.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/21714115
> 
> 
> Yes I have. Thanks for the sarcasm.



It is *NOT SARCASM* - it is the *RIGHT* thing to do.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/21713960
> 
> 
> It now appears to be DOA......
> 
> 
> It won't power up, and the Anthem software no longer can recognize it. I've unplugged everything twice. I guess that what I get for f'n with it at a critical time. I should have known better. Oh well.



Are you saying that Flash Eraser can no longer find it? That's not good.


Download a fresh copy of Flash Eraser. There are 2 different Flash Eraser programs in that download, make sure you are using the correct one. Reboot your Windows computer.


Double check that the connections between the computer and the D2v for serial are tight. Screw down both ends of the serial cable for example, and check that the USB plug has not become loose where it fits into the USB/Serial adapter, as well as where it fits into the computer. Pull the wall power plug from the D2v for about 10 minutes.


Plug the D2v back into wall power and try the newly downloaded Flash Eraser again. If it still can't find the D2v hardware then the odds are your unit will need to go back to the factory for service. There are a few things Anthem Tech Support can have you try as an alternate way to get the D2v to reset, but really if Flash Eraser can't find it any more (using a connection that worked just a while ago), that likely means a hardware reset is needed -- at the factory.


------------------------------------------------


If you *CAN* get the D2v reset with Flash Eraser, I suggest you load the V2.11 firmware -- not V2.13b. V2.11 is in the same download where you got V2.13b. There have been too many reports here that V2.13b is not working -- even after the firmware install completes normally -- on units that do not have the 3D hardware upgrade yet.

--Bob


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21714123
> 
> 
> It is *NOT SARCASM* - it is the *RIGHT* thing to do.



If I mis-read, I apologize.


I won't have time to devote to a support call before next week.


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21714156
> 
> 
> Are you saying that Flash Eraser can no longer find it? That's not good.
> 
> 
> Download a fresh copy of Flash Eraser. There are 2 different Flash Eraser programs in that download, make sure you are using the correct one. Reboot your Windows computer.
> 
> 
> Double check that the connections between the computer and the D2v for serial are tight. Screw down both ends of the serial cable for example, and check that the USB plug has not become loose where it fits into the USB/Serial adapter, as well as where it fits into the computer. Pull the wall power plug from the D2v for about 10 minutes.
> 
> 
> Plug the D2v back into wall power and try the newly downloaded Flash Eraser again. If it still can't find the D2v hardware then the odds are your unit will need to go back to the factory for service. There are a few things Anthem Tech Support can have you try as an alternate way to get the D2v to reset, but really if Flash Eraser can't find it any more (using a connection that worked just a while ago), that likely means a hardware reset is needed -- at the factory.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you *CAN* get the D2v reset with Flash Eraser, I suggest you load the V2.11 firmware -- not V2.13b. V2.11 is in the same download where you got V2.13b. There have been too many reports here that V2.13b is not working -- even after the firmware install completes normally -- on units that do not have the 3D hardware upgrade yet.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I will try your suggestions.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/21714248
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I will try your suggestions.



If you do get it to resond, try turning off your firewall in your computer before running the firmware upgrade. It may help aleviate the hangups you were experiencing.

In my experience both firmware and ARC runs go much faster and smoother when my firewall is turned off. It might sound strange, but it works.


Tom


----------



## studlygoorite

Here is a weird one,


My PC is connected to my D2v then out to my projector and I have been having problems with the picture going black. I ordered a Gefen HDMI Detective Plus and installed it with the same results, now I have discovered, and get this, when the picture goes black if I minimize the screen it will come back on everytime, as soon as I click to make it full screen the picture goes black again. Now I have the PC running direct to my 2nd HDMI input on my projector and all is fine. Any thoughts?


John


----------



## mookie b

Is a 15 second power up sequence normal with my AVM50v? The time it takes from hitting power to it outputting video...


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/21716564
> 
> 
> Is a 15 second power up sequence normal with my AVM50v? The time it takes from hitting power to it outputting video...



It is on the D2v (more like 30 seconds), this began with a firmware upgrade about 8 months ago, maybe longer.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is a 15 second power up sequence normal with my AVM50v? The time it takes from hitting power to it outputting video...



I never thought it to be an unreasonably long time - what are your thoughts?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is a weird one,
> 
> 
> My PC is connected to my D2v then out to my projector and I have been having problems with the picture going black. I ordered a Gefen HDMI Detective Plus and installed it with the same results, now I have discovered, and get this, when the picture goes black if I minimize the screen it will come back on everytime, as soon as I click to make it full screen the picture goes black again. Now I have the PC running direct to my 2nd HDMI input on my projector and all is fine. Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> John



I've seen this before with windows trying to play a DVD with media player. I was just using an XP laptop with VGA output, no HDMI. I thought it was a bug in the media player or something to do with dual monitor support in Windows. With the application on the primary monitor it works fine full screen. Drag it over the the second display (projector), maximize it, and blank screen! I no longer use it, piece of junk.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you do get it to resond, try turning off your firewall in your computer before running the firmware upgrade. It may help aleviate the hangups you were experiencing.
> 
> In my experience both firmware and ARC runs go much faster and smoother when my firewall is turned off. It might sound strange, but it works.
> 
> Tom



I would bet there is something wrong with the PC or serial connection before suspecting a dead AVM/D. Can you confirm the serial port works with another device? Can you try another PC? I keep an old Dell laptop with XP and a hardware serial port for this reason.


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I never thought it to be an unreasonably long time - what are your thoughts?



It's longer than any other processor I've used. It makes power up macros extremely difficult since its basically always going to power up to the last source used since it's booting up for so long you can't send it the input command.


One of those things that I can deal with, but makes it so my family can't use it without me which is not what I want.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Actually if you give it a few seconds delay after the Power On command it WILL buffer a 3-button Source selection command and implement that a little later in the power on sequence. There should also be a bit of a delay after sending a Source selection. Both are easy to implement in the Harmony remotes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21716868
> 
> 
> You can just power the device on VIA source selection.



Yes, if you don't want to get to one of the overlaid Sources (e.g., DVD 2).

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Actually I just tried this (pressing DVD to power on) and it doesn't work via the remote. I could have sworn it used to work. Pressing DVD on the front panel works and it remembers the last used (eg: DVD2).


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21707446
> 
> 
> No my speakers don't have that option. These are the front 3 speakers that I'm running:
> 
> http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/triple-8ht/
> 
> 
> These for rears:
> 
> http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/slanted-8/
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the phase for the subs, I set the distance that you suggested going by the excel document but I will redo the procedure again as I didn't disconnect all the other speakers from the power amp as suggested. Do you think adding 2 bass traps will assist in the 100-300hz issue?



Yes, as they'll absorb the low frequency resonances which accumulate most in corners ... and ARC will thank you as well








.


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I would bet there is something wrong with the PC or serial connection before suspecting a dead AVM/D. Can you confirm the serial port works with another device? Can you try another PC? I keep an old Dell laptop with XP and a hardware serial port for this reason.



That was apparently the problem. I got the old XP laptop out and although it took about three tries I finally got everything restored. Weird thing is I did the last ARC on the windows 7 PC. Thanks to all for the help. My unit does have some issues that may have contributed to the problem. HDMI ports 1-4 haven't worked since day one and the display appears to be failing. I've been waiting patiently for the HDMI board update so I only have to remove from system one time. I'm growing weary though in that regard.


----------



## AVfile

Phew! +1 for old faithful. I've done tons of uploads using a REAL serial port and never had a single issue.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/21716543
> 
> 
> Here is a weird one,
> 
> 
> My PC is connected to my D2v then out to my projector and I have been having problems with the picture going black. I ordered a Gefen HDMI Detective Plus and installed it with the same results, now I have discovered, and get this, when the picture goes black if I minimize the screen it will come back on everytime, as soon as I click to make it full screen the picture goes black again. Now I have the PC running direct to my 2nd HDMI input on my projector and all is fine. Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> John



I think this just started when I installed Windows 7, I wonder what in the Anthem or combination of the Anthem and PC would cause this. I am running 2.11 any thoughts that upgrading to 2.13b would help?


----------



## dvcdude

I have a homegrown HTPC running Win 7 Pro 64 bit that has never had a hiccup. I run HDMI from the ATI GPU to HDMI in #4 and everything runs fine.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/21716821
> 
> 
> It's longer than any other processor I've used. It makes power up macros extremely difficult since its basically always going to power up to the last source used since it's booting up for so long you can't send it the input command.



I'm sure Anthem will say their code is full of workarounds for other manufacturer's components, and nobody else does this.


For me it would be better if I could turn everything on at the same time and walk away, but they recommend gradually turning components on in a specific sequence to avoid HDMI issues. That is hard on a "family".


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21716852
> 
> 
> Actually if you give it a few seconds delay after the Power On command it WILL buffer a 3-button Source selection command and implement that a little later in the power on sequence. There should also be a bit of a delay after sending a Source selection. Both are easy to implement in the Harmony remotes.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I'm waiting on a harmony update because my new Mac with OS X Lion doesn't recognize the 1100 anymore....I will try this as soon as I can.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/21718745
> 
> 
> I think this just started when I installed Windows 7, I wonder what in the Anthem or combination of the Anthem and PC would cause this. I am running 2.11 any thoughts that upgrading to 2.13b would help?



You don't think it's a software problem? Perhaps you missed my reply: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=36132 


2.13b fixes some DTS issues but I currently see the following new problems:

White noise hiss with 16-bit / 176k PCM
Unable to change audio mode (eg: PLIIx) with 6.1 sources
Pressing MODE the first time indicates "LATE NIGHT" mode until mode is changed


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> That was apparently the problem. I got the old XP laptop out and although it took about three tries I finally got everything restored. Weird thing is I did the last ARC on the windows 7 PC. Thanks to all for the help. My unit does have some issues that may have contributed to the problem. HDMI ports 1-4 haven't worked since day one and the display appears to be failing. I've been waiting patiently for the HDMI board update so I only have to remove from system one time. I'm growing weary though in that regard.



That's funny my HDMI 1-4 only worked for a month and then they died also. I have been waiting on the upgrade, didn't see any reason to live without the d2v twice. Anyone know why there is an issue with 1-4 and thankfully not 5-8?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/21721372
> 
> 
> That's funny my HDMI 1-4 only worked for a month and then they died also. I have been waiting on the upgrade, didn't see any reason to live without the d2v twice. Anyone know why there is an issue with 1-4 and thankfully not 5-8?



The HDMI 1-4 inputs are on a separate daughter board that plugs into the main video board. It is of course possible that the daughter board itself has had a failure, but before assuming that it would be wise to check that the daughter board is properly seated in its connections to the main board. And then re-install the firmware just in case the loose connection kept the programming from happening properly with respect to that daughter board.


Note: Do NOT open up the chassis and start fiddling with the boards unless you know how to take precautions against static electricity discharge from your body. Otherwise you might zap something and do more harm than good. Since the video board is the single most expensive replaceable part in there, that could be expensive harm.

--Bob


----------



## mkaye

had 2.13b installed on my D2v w/o 3D board

i had no audio out zone 2 or 3 (i use zone 2 for AM/FM distribution)

reinstalled 2.11 and all OK


mark


----------



## Texas steve

did you get any video out with 2.13B on HDMI 1 or two? What happend to me was I did have graphic overlay (volume, etc) showing up on HDMI 1, but non of the HDMI inputs would work, went back to 2.11 all good. I do not have 3d board.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye* /forum/post/21723164
> 
> 
> had 2.13b installed on my D2v w/o 3D board
> 
> i had no audio out zone 2 or 3 (i use zone 2 for AM/FM distribution)
> 
> reinstalled 2.11 and all OK
> 
> 
> mark


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/21716821
> 
> 
> It's longer than any other processor I've used. It makes power up macros extremely difficult since its basically always going to power up to the last source used since it's booting up for so long you can't send it the input command.
> 
> 
> One of those things that I can deal with, but makes it so my family can't use it without me which is not what I want.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21716852
> 
> 
> Actually if you give it a few seconds delay after the Power On command it WILL buffer a 3-button Source selection command and implement that a little later in the power on sequence. There should also be a bit of a delay after sending a Source selection. Both are easy to implement in the Harmony remotes.
> 
> --Bob



If you are using a Harmony remote, I believe it is possible to add the Power On command to the Source selection macro sequence such that the button will work as if you are pressing the Source button on the front panel to Power Up. Refer to Page 80 of the D2v manual.


Ben


----------



## mkaye

yes, video and everything else was fine

took me a week to remember the update & back it out (only pulled 1/2 my hair out)


mark


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21714156
> 
> 
> Are you saying that Flash Eraser can no longer find it? That's not good.
> 
> 
> Download a fresh copy of Flash Eraser. There are 2 different Flash Eraser programs in that download, make sure you are using the correct one. Reboot your Windows computer.
> 
> 
> Double check that the connections between the computer and the D2v for serial are tight. Screw down both ends of the serial cable for example, and check that the USB plug has not become loose where it fits into the USB/Serial adapter, as well as where it fits into the computer. Pull the wall power plug from the D2v for about 10 minutes.
> 
> 
> Plug the D2v back into wall power and try the newly downloaded Flash Eraser again. If it still can't find the D2v hardware then the odds are your unit will need to go back to the factory for service. There are a few things Anthem Tech Support can have you try as an alternate way to get the D2v to reset, but really if Flash Eraser can't find it any more (using a connection that worked just a while ago), that likely means a hardware reset is needed -- at the factory.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you *CAN* get the D2v reset with Flash Eraser, I suggest you load the V2.11 firmware -- not V2.13b. V2.11 is in the same download where you got V2.13b. There have been too many reports here that V2.13b is not working -- even after the firmware install completes normally -- on units that do not have the 3D hardware upgrade yet.
> 
> --Bob



I feel for his problem and hope the best.


Not too sure where people are getting these? I would assume some password protected beta site since the 2.11 that my box came with are not even publicly available for download yet.


I flash $130 motherboards, $700 graphics card, ps3 etc but would think twice prior to being a beta tester with my precious. How it goes is if it an't broke and the updated firmware does not do anything more for your needs don't flash it. I know if I do it will not be on a rainy day and I will be looking for others feed back first ;-).


Regards


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2* /forum/post/21724392
> 
> 
> How it goes is if it an't broke and the updated firmware does not do anything more for your needs don't flash it. I know if I do it will not be on a rainy day and I will be looking for others feed back first ;-).
> 
> 
> Regards



Absolutely. +1


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21704462
> 
> 
> Yes, select 50v.



Thanks for that, it worked fine, ran my ARC and it sounds fantastic - I am very happy!


I have gotten all of my sources set up on the AVM50 except one, and that is my Roku box. I only have component on my display. I'm using component inputs at 1080i for my everything except for my laserdisc - I'm using the S-Video in and it scales it fine to the component.


The Roku can use either HDMI or composite and analog L/R, so I have to use the latter. Am I correct that I cannot scale the composite to component? I could not get it to work, in any case.


So I still must be doing something wrong with this - I now have the cables from the Roku going to the TAPE inputs - Composite and L/R audio. Then I have the TAPE COMPOSITE OUT to a Composite IN on my display. I get sound from the Anthem, but no picture when I select the appropriate Composite Input on my display.


How should this be setup in Source Setup to simply send the Tape Composite In to Tape Composite Out? I have all of the inputs except composite set to NONE - even tried setting that to NONE, but it didn't make any difference. I have tried Video Config 1 (which is my default), and then switched it to 2 and tried every setting there I could, but still no picture.


I have read the manual, it doesn't really say much of anything about using composite in to the composite out. Seems like there really shouldn't be anything TO configure.


Thanks,


- Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Composite video is only "pass through". The AVM 50v and D2v act only as a "switcher" for Composite sources. Composite can not be video processed in the Anthem, meaning that it can't be de-interlaced or scaled or converted to another form of video output.


There are two easy solutions. First, to get switched, pass-through Composite output for the Main Path, use the Main Composite output plug, which is several plugs to the right of the Tape Out you are trying to use now. (To use Tape Out you need to set up the Record Path in the Anthem. The Anthem is like 4 devices in one chassis: Main, Zone 2, Zone 3, and Record, which are separately controllable.)


However a better solution is to purchase an inexpensive, in-line Composite to S-video converter gizmo and use S-video input instead. S-video input can be video processed, so you can use your normal Component video output setup. It won't look all that great, but then Composite video doesn't look all that great to begin with.


A somewhat more expensive solution is to get a gizmo like HD Fury that will take HDMI output and convert it to Component video for your display. Attach the HD Fury to the Component inputs of your TV and use HDMI for input and output on the AVM 50v.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy* /forum/post/21729001
> 
> 
> Thanks for that, it worked fine, ran my ARC and it sounds fantastic - I am very happy!
> 
> 
> I have gotten all of my sources set up on the AVM50 except one, and that is my Roku box. I only have component on my display. I'm using component inputs at 1080i for my everything except for my laserdisc - I'm using the S-Video in and it scales it fine to the component.
> 
> 
> The Roku can use either HDMI or composite and analog L/R, so I have to use the latter. Am I correct that I cannot scale the composite to component? I could not get it to work, in any case.
> 
> 
> So I still must be doing something wrong with this - I now have the cables from the Roku going to the TAPE inputs - Composite and L/R audio. Then I have the TAPE COMPOSITE OUT to a Composite IN on my display. I get sound from the Anthem, but no picture when I select the appropriate Composite Input on my display.
> 
> 
> How should this be setup in Source Setup to simply send the Tape Composite In to Tape Composite Out? I have all of the inputs except composite set to NONE - even tried setting that to NONE, but it didn't make any difference. I have tried Video Config 1 (which is my default), and then switched it to 2 and tried every setting there I could, but still no picture.
> 
> 
> I have read the manual, it doesn't really say much of anything about using composite in the composite out. Seems like there really shouldn't be anything TO configure.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> - Mark



Your correct it is not very clear


I would first check by connecting the Roku to your display's composite in directly to make sure there is a signal.

If there is a signal reconnect again to the Anthem Composite Tape Out then check your source setup for Tape again and check you have none selected for the Scaler Input


----------



## fuzzybk

Is there any benefit in setting the bass management for music mode? Right now I have my movie mode set for 5.1 and all is well. I want to listen to my ARCAM cd player in analog direct. I have set this preference in my source setup and it sounds good.


Will I gain anything by setting the music mode for 2.1 then running ARC and using analog direct vs. Using the movie mode settings and analog direct?


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk* /forum/post/21729563
> 
> 
> Is there any benefit in setting the bass management for music mode? Right now I have my movie mode set for 5.1 and all is well. I want to listen to my ARCAM cd player in analog direct. I have set this preference in my source setup and it sounds good.
> 
> 
> Will I gain anything by setting the music mode for 2.1 then running ARC and using analog direct vs. Using the movie mode settings and analog direct?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



If you use ANALOG-DIRECT there is *NO* processing by ARC. There's no audio processing at all with ANALOG-DIRECT. No bass management at all for example. So the Movie vs. Music choice simply doesn't apply.


If you want to use ARC with your CD player's analog output you need to set the Source Setup to ANALOG-DSP.


------------------------------------------


There is no difference in processing between ARC's Movie and Music setups. The names are simply chosen as a convenience. They could have been called 1 and 2, or George and Fred.


So the only differences between Movie and Music are the ones that YOU build into their setups. For example, some people like to build the Music setup excluding the Center speaker. Other folks like to do a separate ARC Measurement pass for Music because they configure the room differently for music listening -- e.g., projection screen up.


I use my Movie setup for listening to any multi-channel music content and my Music setup for listening to only mono or stereo music content. This is simply a choice I've made, not something built into the way Movie and Music work.


Given my choice, I've done my ARC setup so that Music excludes my Center speaker but includes all my other speakers and the Sub. (Another choice I've made is that I want the sub active for stereo music content to support the low end of my main speakers.)


Then in the Mode Presets for my stereo music content Source definitions, I have specified Stereo audio surround mode as the default for use with 2.0 content input.


And in Source Setup for those stereo music content Source definitions, I have either specified HDMI audio input or ANALOG-DSP audio input, and with Room EQ ON and Dolby Volume OFF. Thus ARC (Music configuration in this case) does indeed get used when selecting these Sources.


That means by default I'll have LF/RF/Sub active for output and with ARC doing its thing.


If I feel like lighting up the surround speakers when playing these Mono or Stereo music tracks, I can use the Mode button to change to, say, PLIIx-Music on the fly. Since I have excluded Center from my Music configuration, this will light up the surrounds, the fronts (except Center), and the subwoofer.


Again, this is personal preference. The thing to do is play around with different possibilities and decide what YOU like to use.

--Bob


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21729400
> 
> 
> ^ Composite video is only "pass through". The AVM 50v and D2v act only as a "switcher" for Composite sources. Composite can not be video processed in the Anthem, meaning that it can't be de-interlaced or scaled or converted to another form of video output.
> 
> 
> There are two easy solutions. First, to get switched, pass-through Composite output for the Main Path, use the Main Composite output plug, which is several plugs to the right of the Tape Out you are trying to use now. (To use Tape Out you need to set up the Record Path in the Anthem. The Anthem is like 4 devices in one chassis: Main, Zone 2, Zone 3, and Record, which are separately controllable.)



Ahh! OK, thanks, I get it, and that works fine. Didn't even notice that one of the composite outputs is labeled "MAIN" - it doesn't even mention that in the manual, I don't think. As thestewman said, not very clear.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> However a better solution is to purchase an inexpensive, in-line Composite to S-video converter gizmo and use S-video input instead. S-video input can be video processed, so you can use your normal Component video output setup. It won't look all that great, but then Composite video doesn't look all that great to begin with.



I actually have a DVDO iScan HD+ that, until I got the AVM50 set up, I had been running my laserdisc S-Video through to upscale it to component 1080i, and I could use it to upscale the Roku composite but I'm looking to eliminate it from my setup. I need to compare the output from the two to see what gives better results, though. Whenever I get to it. I just got the Roku, and I never bothered. As you said, it won't look that great anyway.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ]A somewhat more expensive solution is to get a gizmo like HD Fury that will take HDMI output and convert it to Component video for your display. Attach the HD Fury to the Component inputs of your TV and use HDMI for input and output on the AVM 50v.



How is that possible? I don't mean from a technical standpoint, I mean legally - I thought all products were required to respect the (idiotic) copy-protection of HDMI.


- Mark


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21729663
> 
> 
> ...If you want to use ARC with your CD player's analog output you need to set the Source Setup to ANALOG-DSP...



Bob, as a new user, I found this entire post incredibly helpful...thanks!


- Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The legality of the HD Fury has always been a bit of a puzzle, but they've been around for quite a while with no problems so far.


THEIR explanation is that once the Fury is attached to the TV it becomes PART of the TV -- just as if you opened up the TV and added an HDMI upgrade board. The Fury implements HDMI HDCP copy protection. So you have now "upgraded" the TV to be a fully compliant HDMI TV.


Go figur....

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, this is the sort of adapter I'm talking about to take a Composite video Source device and instead use an S-video input into the Anthem:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


Note that these low quality analog video signals can be a bit crufty, so the adapter MAY not work given your particular Composite video Source device, but for a buck to try it, it's hard to go wrong.


The S-video input signal quality has to be within certain tolerances for the video digitizer in the Anthem to recognize and process it -- an essential step to upscale and convert to Component output. Basically you'll either get an image or not.


If it works, the S-video input can be scaled up and output on the Component output cabling from the Anthem that you are using now.


Your Roku box is capable of much MUCH better video output on its HDMI output. So you'll get better results from it if you go the HD Fury route so you can use HDMI in and out of the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21729922
> 
> 
> THEIR explanation is that once the Fury is attached to the TV it becomes PART of the TV -- just as if you opened up the TV and added an HDMI upgrade board. The Fury implements HDMI HDCP copy protection. So you have now "upgraded" the TV to be a fully compliant HDMI TV.



Well, I found that quite funny - good for them!


I am a bit concerned about a degradation in quality - right now I am set up like this:


Source component 1080i -> AVM50 -> Component 1080i Out -> Display Component 1080i In


I'd be adding two conversions:


Source component 1080i -> AVM50 -> HDMI 1080i Out -> HD Fury -> Component 1080i Out -> Display Component 1080i In


Or does converting 1080i between component and HDMI and back not really matter?










- Mark


PS OK, just saw your post about the Roku - that makes a lot of sense, and might be worth any slight degradation in quality form my DVD...


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21729663
> 
> 
> If you use ANALOG-DIRECT there is *NO* processing by ARC. There's no audio processing at all with ANALOG-DIRECT. No bass management at all for example. So the Movie vs. Music choice simply doesn't apply.
> 
> 
> If you want to use ARC with your CD player's analog output you need to set the Source Setup to ANALOG-DSP.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> There is no difference in processing between ARC's Movie and Music setups. The names are simply chosen as a convenience. They could have been called 1 and 2, or George and Fred.
> 
> 
> So the only differences between Movie and Music are the ones that YOU build into their setups. For example, some people like to build the Music setup excluding the Center speaker. Other folks like to do a separate ARC Measurement pass for Music because they configure the room differently for music listening -- e.g., projection screen up.
> 
> 
> I use my Movie setup for listening to any multi-channel music content and my Music setup for listening to only mono or stereo music content. This is simply a choice I've made, not something built into the way Movie and Music work.
> 
> 
> Given my choice, I've done my ARC setup so that Music excludes my Center speaker but includes all my other speakers and the Sub. (Another choice I've made is that I want the sub active for stereo music content to support the low end of my main speakers.)
> 
> 
> Then in the Mode Presets for my stereo music content Source definitions, I have specified Stereo audio surround mode as the default for use with 2.0 content input.
> 
> 
> And in Source Setup for those stereo music content Source definitions, I have either specified HDMI audio input or ANALOG-DSP audio input, and with Room EQ ON and Dolby Volume OFF. Thus ARC (Music configuration in this case) does indeed get used when selecting these Sources.
> 
> 
> That means by default I'll have LF/RF/Sub active for output and with ARC doing its thing.
> 
> 
> If I feel like lighting up the surround speakers when playing these Mono or Stereo music tracks, I can use the Mode button to change to, say, PLIIx-Music on the fly. Since I have excluded Center from my Music configuration, this will light up the surrounds, the fronts (except Center), and the subwoofer.
> 
> 
> Again, this is personal preference. The thing to do is play around with different possibilities and decide what YOU like to use.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I am aware by using analog direct I will not be able to use ARC. I just want to hear the dacs in my ARCAM cd player vs the anthem dacs. I will then decide if I need arc or not for 2ch.


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. With my continued quest for improved bass response, I revisited the D2v manual and came across the Room Resonance Filter which I've never used. Is anyone with a D2v using this feature and is it worth trying out?


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21730681
> 
> 
> Hi guys. With my continued quest for improved bass response, I revisited the D2v manual and came across the Room Resonance Filter which I've never used. Is anyone with a D2v using this feature and is it worth trying out?



You can't use it if you are using ARC.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> You can't use it if you are using ARC



Right well that answers that then. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## mookie b




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You can't use it if you are using ARC.



What does it do that ARC isn't doing by itself?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21730681
> 
> 
> Hi guys. With my continued quest for improved bass response, I revisited the D2v manual and came across the Room Resonance Filter which I've never used. Is anyone with a D2v using this feature and is it worth trying out?



What do you feel is lacking with your bass? Post your charts and Targets so that we can see what they look like. Maybe we can spot something that's causing your bass problem.


----------



## SimonNo10

It's all good Ninja12, well sort of







. I posted my charts a few pages back and the results are that a have a 6db drop between 100hz-300hz which can only be fixed by repositioning my subs, or implementing some bass traps. As I'm room restricted it makes things difficult. I actually redid ARC yesterday as I moved my surrounds a little and added some foam bass traps (these were purchased awhile ago), and have been told they aren't the best for improving bass. I put them back into the room (stacked 3 in the front right corner behind front right speaker) just to see if they did anything positive. Here are my results.


My brother is coming over at some point in the next week and we will perform a Quick Measure and see if I see improvements by moving one of my subs (running 2 Seaton Submersives). Too heavy to move alone.


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok. Decided to remove a 2 seater couch which I don't use in the room and place one of the subs there. Here are the results. Opinions?


In my haste to get this all done as quickly as possible, I completely forgot to remeasure each sub with my SPL meter and adjust accordingly before running ARC. ARC has set the trim to +2.5 for the subs. Should I redo the calibration?


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mookie b* /forum/post/21730705
> 
> 
> What does it do that ARC isn't doing by itself?



There are some legacy pre-ARC functions remaining for compatibility. This is one of those outdated functions not needed if ARC is used. Same with crossover settings, you shouldn't change them in processor if using ARC.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21731033
> 
> 
> Ok. Decided to remove a 2 seater couch which I don't use in the room and place one of the subs there. Here are the results. Opinions?
> 
> 
> In my haste to get this all done as quickly as possible, I completely forgot to remeasure each sub with my SPL meter and adjust accordingly before running ARC. ARC has set the trim to +2.5 for the subs. Should I redo the calibration?



There is something that ARC does not do. It does not align phase of main speakers and subwoofer. Try varying the subwoofer distance +/- 2 6 feet and you will hear completely different results. I was shocked first time I heard it so I bought a calibrated microphone and learned how to use free application called HOLMImpulse ( http://www.holmacoustics.com/holmimpulse.php ) and then everything became clear to me. I like HOLM because you can play test signals separately through left, right and center channels (so I test left+subwoofer, right+subwoofer, left+right+subwoofer, center+ subwoofer). ARC does not show you the final curve when speakers play together, it only equalizes individual speakers, not pairs or sets but it is really important fro final result to align their phases. Alas you can do it only yourself either with calibrated microphone (much more understandable and visual results) or regular SPL meter (less "scientific" and no response curve to see and think about), we already covered the topic several times in this thread.

Using those techniques I came from ugly curve wit a boomy or non-existent bass to a nice flat one.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21730755
> 
> 
> It's all good Ninja12, well sort of
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I posted my charts a few pages back and the results are that a have a 6db drop between 100hz-300hz which can only be fixed by repositioning my subs, or implementing some bass traps. As I'm room restricted it makes things difficult. I actually redid ARC yesterday as I moved my surrounds a little and added some foam bass traps (these were purchased awhile ago), and have been told they aren't the best for improving bass. I put them back into the room (stacked 3 in the front right corner behind front right speaker) just to see if they did anything positive. Here are my results.
> 
> 
> My brother is coming over at some point in the next week and we will perform a Quick Measure and see if I see improvements by moving one of my subs (running 2 Seaton Submersives). Too heavy to move alone.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21731033
> 
> 
> Ok. Decided to remove a 2 seater couch which I don't use in the room and place one of the subs there. Here are the results. Opinions?
> 
> 
> In my haste to get this all done as quickly as possible, I completely forgot to remeasure each sub with my SPL meter and adjust accordingly before running ARC. ARC has set the trim to +2.5 for the subs. Should I redo the calibration?



Your charts look good. Between the two measurements, your sub looks better in the new position that you moved it to. Now, the only problem that I see is that you have little to no room gain which may be contributing to your lack of bass. So, I suggest that you manually set your room gain to 2.0 or 2.5. Once you do that, just Calculate and upload your ARC file and give that a listen to see how it sounds to you.


----------



## spiderv6

This is slightly off topic, but if I bet you guys will have some opinions on this.


I currently have a SONOS connected to my D2V and it works very well. I love the iPad control I have over this system.


However, I am collecting more and more hi-res format files that SONOS cannot handle.


My music all sits in a Synology NAS.


Ideally, I want a cable that I connect from the USB of my NAS to a digital input of my D2V (oh for a simple life!)


For that I need to buy a ($$$) box with a DAC that I don't need (my D2V can handle that job just fine).


Has anybody solved ths problem in an elegant way?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I found that quite funny - good for them!
> 
> 
> I am a bit concerned about a degradation in quality - right now I am set up like this:
> 
> 
> Source component 1080i -> AVM50 -> Component 1080i Out -> Display Component 1080i In
> 
> 
> I'd be adding two conversions:
> 
> 
> Source component 1080i -> AVM50 -> HDMI 1080i Out -> HD Fury -> Component 1080i Out -> Display Component 1080i In
> 
> 
> Or does converting 1080i between component and HDMI and back not really matter?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Mark
> 
> 
> PS OK, just saw your post about the Roku - that makes a lot of sense, and might be worth any slight degradation in quality form my DVD...



The HDFury3 is an awesome product. Chances are it has more accurate analog component video output than your DVD player or other source. I have tested it and there are no Chroma delays or other anomalies that even my $1200 Pioneer Elite player has. It can also output RGB format if you have a CRT projector. What is your display?


I have only one analog source, Pioneer Elite Laserdisc. I got best results using its S output to the AVM upconverting it to HDMI. Composite to S adapter on the AVM input was a disaster - horrible picture! You would have better results just sending composite directly to your TV, if it supports it, than using a cheap adapter (there are more sophisticated active converters, but at that point you are better off going HDMI and using the Fury as Bob said).


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The legality of the HD Fury has always been a bit of a puzzle, but they've been around for quite a while with no problems so far.
> 
> 
> THEIR explanation is that once the Fury is attached to the TV it becomes PART of the TV -- just as if you opened up the TV and added an HDMI upgrade board. The Fury implements HDMI HDCP copy protection. So you have now "upgraded" the TV to be a fully compliant HDMI TV.
> 
> 
> Go figur....
> 
> --Bob



Yeah, the VGA connector has screws and they supply strict instructions to bolt it directly to your TV (in my case a female VGA wall plate leading to 25' of RGB cables up to my PJ)










Not to mention they are based out of Hong Kong. Curtpalme stopped selling them here due to legal trouble (who is the party pooper that blew the whistle?) and I'm not sure if Monoprice still has them.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is something that ARC does not do. It does not align phase of main speakers and subwoofer. Try varying the subwoofer distance +/- 2 6 feet and you will hear completely different results.



Or just use the Advanced settings - Subwoofer Phase and Polarity (manual section 3.3).


If using multiple subs see section 3.5 first.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21731929
> 
> 
> Or just use the Advanced settings - Subwoofer Phase and Polarity (manual section 3.3).
> 
> 
> If using multiple subs see section 3.5 first.



Phase and polarity is an area of tweaking that I am having a little trouble understanding, and I don't think I'm alone here. So please humor me and answer a few questions I have.


1- Will any difference in settings made in *phase* in the Anthem's setup show up in ARC graphs? Or QM?

I'm thinking that it won't since phase is the working relationship between the speakers/sub, but it would be nice to have some visible feedback.


2- I assume that any difference I may hear while adjusting phase will probably be pretty subtle, but will an SPL meter be of any assistance? If so, will the highest reading be the best setting.


3- If I do find a better/different setting for the phase, should I re-run ARC?


Thanks,

Tom


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks for the feedback guys. I did some testing with the new sub position and simply didn't like what I was hearing. Deep bass was limited and I could localise the sub now. Suffice to say I have moved the sub back but to it's original position (give or take a few feet for both subs). I redid ARC and played the same material and I have really deep hard hitting bass which sounds great to me (even though ARC graph may say otherwise).


Sorry dkojevnikov I didn't read your post until this morning (I'm in Australia) otherwise I would have tried adding room gain. I was doing testing until 11pm (Sunday) so had to move things back into place and redo ARC before going back to work today. Thanks for your suggestions.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21733373
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback guys. I did some testing with the new sub position and simply didn't like what I was hearing. Deep bass was limited and I could localise the sub now. Suffice to say I have moved the sub back but to it's original position (give or take a few feet for both subs). I redid ARC and played the same material and I have really deep hard hitting bass which sounds great to me (even though ARC graph may say otherwise).
> 
> 
> Sorry dkojevnikov I didn't read your post until this morning (I'm in Australia) otherwise I would have tried adding room gain. I was doing testing until 11pm (Sunday) so had to move things back into place and redo ARC before going back to work today. Thanks for your suggestions.



That's why I always say your ears should have the final say and not the charts. If you are liking what you are hearing now, then I would say that your job is done regardless of how your charts look.


Enjoy!!!!


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21731929
> 
> 
> Or just use the Advanced settings - Subwoofer Phase and Polarity (manual section 3.3).
> 
> 
> If using multiple subs see section 3.5 first.



It is still something ARC is not doing and not helping with. Subwoofer phase/polarity is not the same as subwoofer distance so your "or" should actually be replaced with "and"), both of them can be used for speaker phase alignment. Although in my case I got much better results with just varying the subwoofer distance as it is not applying any kind of filters at the crossover point (phase/polarity), just delaying the signal (distance).


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21733485
> 
> 
> That's why I always say your ears should have the final say and not the charts. If you are liking what you are hearing now, then I would say that your job is done regardless of how your charts look.
> 
> 
> Enjoy!!!!



The problem with hearing is that it is subjective. It may initially like the wrong sound and dislike the right one but after some time it may like the right one even better. So it is always better to set everything right with some calibrated tools and ask you ears in a month if you like it.


----------



## SimonNo10

All valid points guys. Agree sound is subjective and what my perceptions of great bass may be completely different to some of you. I know my current room isn't perfect but Im trying to get the best result with what I have to work with.


After setting volume on both subs using spl meter ARC set the final trim to +4.5. I found this odd as the meter was reading approx 72-73db for each ( they were done separately). Should I leave as is or adjust subs with spl again so ARC gets the trim closer to "0".? Is +4.5 too much of an adjustment for ARC to make. Clearly I set the subs volume nob on each too low despite what my analogue meter was showing. I use a proper tripod and connect spl to it and it's set to slow and C weight. It was calibrated about 3 years ago by Macca who posts here







. Last calibration I got it to +.5 so I must have misread the meter.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21732715
> 
> 
> Phase and polarity is an area of tweaking that I am having a little trouble understanding, and I don't think I'm alone here. So please humor me and answer a few questions I have.



Sound is waves in air and for low frequencies they are pretty long. And the length of wave is (speed of sound)/(frequency). For example, for 80Hz, the length of sound wave is 340.29 m/s divided by 80 Hz is 4.25 m (1126 ft/s divided by 80Hz is 14 feet). So for 80Hz you should try adjusting subwoofer frequency from minus 7 to plus 7 feet to cover the entire wave length. If two waves meet, they produce the new wave but the rusulting value can be anything from -2*amplitude to 2*amplitude (and zero is also in this range).

You can find a lot of information in the Internet, for example this is an excellent explanation with demos:
http://www.acoustics.salford.ac.uk/f...aves/super.htm 



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21732715
> 
> 
> 1- Will any difference in settings made in *phase* in the Anthem's setup show up in ARC graphs? Or QM?
> 
> I'm thinking that it won't since phase is the working relationship between the speakers/sub, but it would be nice to have some visible feedback.



You are right, ARC won't show any difference as it is measuring the individual speakers and not pairs. But it is a different picture if you have more than one subwoofer.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21732715
> 
> 
> 2- I assume that any difference I may hear while adjusting phase will probably be pretty subtle, but will an SPL meter be of any assistance? If so, will the highest reading be the best setting.



No, the difference is huge. You can get anything from zero (when phases of main speakers and subwoofer are at 180 degrees from each other thus cancelling altogether) to 2*what_you_should_have. But it is mostly obvious in a crossover points where speakers are trying to blend in. For example, if your crossover point for mains is 80hz, then phase should be aligned at 80Hz. SPL meter is more than enough to do the alignment but calibrated microphone is a much better tool and you can actually see the resulting response curve not for individual speakers (like in ARC) but for different sets of speakers (left+sub, right+sub, center+sub, left+right+sub etc).


Highest reading will not be the best in most cases. When playing the test tone of your crossover frequency (and in its vicinity) through your left and sub (or right and sub), your SPL meter should register something close to 75 Db + your room gain set by ARC (I recommend HOLMImpulse for it). But the problem is the delta can be up to 1-2 Db so it is really easier to see thing in graph if you have calibrated microphone. So if crossover frequency for your main speakers is 80Hz, you should play 80Hz plus minus 10-20Hz and choose subwofer distance and phase so that that range would sound as close to 75Db + room gain as it is possible (but you have to make sure you set your sound level so that your higher frequencies not affected by room gain would be at 75 Db).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21732715
> 
> 
> 3- If I do find a better/different setting for the phase, should I re-run ARC?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



Please start with subwoofer distance first (plus minus 6-7 feet), phase applies some filter at a crossover point which complicates things. And you don't have to rerun ARC after you find a sweet spot. By the way, if you set the same crossover frequency for your mains and center, it may help a bit as it will be easier to align phases (for example if you have 65Hz and 70Hz, just choose 70Hz for both). Also, you can try to shift your cutoff frequency up or down in ARC software and choose the one which gives the smoothest graph possible, especially at the crossover point.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21733631
> 
> 
> All valid points guys. Agree sound is subjective and what my perceptions of great bass may be completely different to some of you. I know my current room isn't perfect but Im trying to get the best result with what I have to work with.
> 
> 
> After setting volume on both subs using spl meter ARC set the final trim to +4.5. I found this odd as the meter was reading approx 72-73db for each ( they were done separately). Should I leave as is or adjust subs with spl again so ARC gets the trim closer to "0".? Is +4.5 too much of an adjustment for ARC to make. Clearly I set the subs volume nob on each too low despite what my analogue meter was showing. I use a proper tripod and connect spl to it and it's set to slow and C weight. It was calibrated about 3 years ago by Macca who posts here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Last calibration I got it to +.5 so I must have misread the meter.



You should listen to what you have for a while to see how it sounds to you. If you run ARC again, I think you should turn up your sub a notch or two so ARC can set the trim, for your sub, closer to 0. BTW, ARC setting your sub's trim to +4.5 is not out of the norm; but, for me, I try to keep all of my speaker trims +/-3. Currently, all of my speaker trims are +/-1 with my sub's trim being set to +0.0.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> You should listen to what you have for a while to see how it sounds to you. If you run ARC again, I think you should turn up your sub a notch or two so ARC can set the trim, for your sub, closer to 0. BTW, ARC setting your sub's trim to +4.5 is not out of the norm; but, for me, I try to keep all of my speaker trims +/-3. Currently, all of my speaker trims are +/-1 with my sub's trim being set to +0.0.



Yep normally that's what I strive to get. All my other speakers are .5 to 1. I prefer the sub trim to be close to zero as possible like yourself. I tested a Bluray (Thor) and the bass sounded great, nice and deep room filling. I will redo it so the trims are closer to zero for the subs.


I remember reading years ago when I got into HT that we should try eliminate the receiver/processors calibration software from doing large corrections as it adds distortion. Is this the reason why we strive to get the trims as close to zero as possible for the subs?


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21731887
> 
> 
> The HDFury3 is an awesome product. Chances are it has more accurate analog component video output than your DVD player or other source. I have tested it and there are no Chroma delays or other anomalies that even my $1200 Pioneer Elite player has. It can also output RGB format if you have a CRT projector. What is your display?
> 
> 
> I have only one analog source, Pioneer Elite Laserdisc. I got best results using its S output to the AVM upconverting it to HDMI. Composite to S adapter on the AVM input was a disaster - horrible picture! You would have better results just sending composite directly to your TV, if it supports it, than using a cheap adapter (there are more sophisticated active converters, but at that point you are better off going HDMI and using the Fury as Bob said).



Now that I think about it, you're right - like you, the only source I have without an HDMI output is actually my Pioneer Elite Laserdisc CLD-97 - what model do you have (just curious)? So I wasn't thinking, other than the laserdisc I'd be feeding HDMI to the Anthem.


My display is a rear-projection Toshiba 65HX81.


A quick search didn't turn up any US distributors for the HDfury3 - and honestly not sure about shelling out $400 directly to HDfury, when I'm probably close to buying a new display anyway. There's some much less expensive devices around that do the conversion - Monoprice has one for $40, and there's this one on Amazon that looks pretty good - but not sure how they compare.


- Mark


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21732715
> 
> 
> Phase and polarity is an area of tweaking that I am having a little trouble understanding, and I don't think I'm alone here. So please humor me and answer a few questions I have.
> 
> 
> 1- Will any difference in settings made in *phase* in the Anthem's setup show up in ARC graphs? Or QM?
> 
> I'm thinking that it won't since phase is the working relationship between the speakers/sub, but it would be nice to have some visible feedback.
> 
> 
> 2- I assume that any difference I may hear while adjusting phase will probably be pretty subtle, but will an SPL meter be of any assistance? If so, will the highest reading be the best setting.
> 
> 
> 3- If I do find a better/different setting for the phase, should I re-run ARC?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



1. Oh yes ... if you have 2 or more subs, i have two subwoofers and phase matching them manually produces the best sub frequency response in my room, this assumes you've placed them at positions that are optimal as best you can. By best, i mean the widest possible and most even response before ARC. You do not want to have huge peaks and nulls in your response curve using "Quick Measure" as the test tool. After you've amplitude and phase match them, then let ARC do the rest. You'll get the best SW response curve your subs are able to produce in your room than you would w/o phase matching them.


In my room , i have one sub in front and the other behind me and its the best combination for me to get the most even bass as i movee about the room (YMMV).


2. The effects of phase matcing the subs to the room and then to the mains is not subtle but very audible. You may refer to my sig for further details on phase matching, if interested.


3. As i said before, i phase match the subs to the room before ARC. Afterwards, i run ARC then match the subs to the mains (around ARC's xover frequency) by varying the speaker distance. In my case, the results are worth it. The bass is not intrusive and doesn't call attention to itself. You get a seamless transition between your mains and subs that you do not notice where the mains end and the sub starts! Worth it indeed IMO


----------



## SimonNo10

I hope I'm not boring others here with ARC charts, but here are the most recent ones with subs back to normal positions give or take a few feet. I have sent the results to a guy (HAA certified) that works for Acoustic Vision and he will advise what Bass Traps would suit my room and help improve the bass response.


I wont bother redoing ARC to get the subs trim lower than +4.5 as I will wait until I purchase the traps and then redo ARC.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21734987
> 
> 
> 1. Oh yes ... if you have 2 or more subs, i have two subwoofers and phase matching them manually produces the best sub frequency response in my room, this assumes you've placed them at positions that are optimal as best you can. By best, i mean the widest possible and most even response before ARC. You do not want to have huge peaks and nulls in your response curve using "Quick Measure" as the test tool. After you've amplitude and phase match them, then let ARC do the rest. You'll get the best SW response curve your subs are able to produce in your room than you would w/o phase matching them.
> 
> 
> In my room , i have one sub in front and the other behind me and its the best combination for me to get the most even bass as i movee about the room (YMMV).
> 
> 
> 2. The effects of phase matcing the subs to the room and then to the mains is not subtle but very audible. You may refer to my sig for further details on phase matching, if interested.
> 
> 
> 3. As i said before, i phase match the subs to the room before ARC. Afterwards, i run ARC then match the subs to the mains (around ARC's xover frequency) by varying the speaker distance. In my case, the results are worth it. The bass is not intrusive and doesn't call attention to itself. You get a seamless transition between your mains and subs that you do not notice where the mains end and the sub starts! Worth it indeed IMO



Thanks for the input dkojevnikov and dmusoke.


dmusoke-- I reread your null/peak post and decided to apply it to my system.

Since I have only one sub I fortunatly didn't have to match subs to each other first.


I decided to use the null procedure, but I cheated a little, so please let me know if this is OK since my whole measurement depends on it. Since I have my front speakers bi-wired to the posts with spades (no banana plugs) reversing the wiring is a pita, so I went into the D2 setup menu-Speaker Configuration- and inverted the polarity on the sub during the test. Since the idea is to reverse the relative polarity between the LF and sub I didn't think it should matter where its done.

*Assuming thats OK*, I then put in a test cd I have that can be set to play specific freqencies. Since my crossovers are set to 60hz for fronts and center in my D2 setup 3a/b (not the cutoffs in ARC) I then played the 60hz track while adjusting the sub distance in the Listener Position section of setup.

The actual distance is @9.5 ft on a tape measure, but the lowest null reading came in at 18.5 ft. I don't know if its a coincidence that its approximately 2x the actual measurement or if its due to my room dimensions (10.5 ft wide x 17 ft deep) or the wave length of 60 hz, or what







, but that was definitly the distance that got the lowest reading on my SPL meter. So thats the subwoofer distance I input into the D2 setup menu.


I then went back into 3a/b and set the sub polarity back to normal.


Bass seems fuller, but not boomy. Can't guarantee that its not placebo effect. Its not a huge difference to me, but definitly seems improved to my ears.


Tom


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21736732
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input dkojevnikov and dmusoke.
> 
> 
> dmusoke-- I reread your null/peak post and decided to apply it to my system.
> 
> Since I have only one sub I fortunatly didn't have to match subs to each other first.
> 
> 
> I decided to use the null procedure, but I cheated a little, so please let me know if this is OK since my whole measurement depends on it. Since I have my front speakers bi-wired to the posts with spades (no banana plugs) reversing the wiring is a pita, so I went into the D2 setup menu-Speaker Configuration- and inverted the polarity on the sub during the test. Since the idea is to reverse the relative polarity between the LF and sub I didn't think it should matter where its done.
> 
> *Assuming thats OK*, I then put in a test cd I have that can be set to play specific freqencies. Since my crossovers are set to 60hz for fronts and center in my D2 setup 3a/b (not the cutoffs in ARC) I then played the 60hz track while adjusting the sub distance in the Listener Position section of setup.
> 
> The actual distance is @9.5 ft on a tape measure, but the lowest null reading came in at 18.5 ft. I don't know if its a coincidence that its approximately 2x the actual measurement or if its due to my room dimensions (10.5 ft wide x 17 ft deep) or the wave length of 60 hz, or what
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but that was definitly the distance that got the lowest reading on my SPL meter. So thats the subwoofer distance I input into the D2 setup menu.
> 
> 
> I then went back into 3a/b and set the sub polarity back to normal.
> 
> 
> Bass seems fuller, but not boomy. Can't guarantee that its not placebo effect. Its not a huge difference to me, but definitly seems improved to my ears.
> 
> 
> Tom



It seems to me that reverting the polarity for sub is OK for the null procedure. 18.5 ft is very close to the length of the 60Hz wave, 9.5 ft being close to a half of the 60Hz wavelength so your observations coincide with the physics of this world. I am curious what is the distance to your main speakers? Is the difference between (distance_to_main_speaker) - (distance_to_subwoofer) close to 9.5 ft? And where your subwoofer is located in reference to main speakers and your main seating point?


In my case the maximum was not the best settings as I had very huge bump at my crossover point with this setting. So I had to vary the distance until I found the smoothest response curve possible. It was actally less than physical distance to subwoofer. It may seem strange at first that the best setting is not a physical distance but you have to remember that your subwoofer is probably using the different amplifier than your main speakers and the speaker of subwoofer is much heavier thus there could be significant delays in wave impulse between main speakers and subwoofer. That's why it is more often called logical distance, not physical distance.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21738005
> 
> 
> It seems to me that reverting the polarity for sub is OK for the null procedure. 18.5 ft is very close to the length of the 60Hz wave, 9.5 ft being close to a half of the 60Hz wavelength so your observations coincide with the physics of this world. I am curious what is the distance to your main speakers? Is the difference between (distance_to_main_speaker) - (distance_to_subwoofer) close to 9.5 ft? And where your subwoofer is located in reference to main speakers and your main seating point?



The subwoofer, an SVS SB13plus, is against the front wall in the corner 1' to the right of and behid the RF speaker. About 3'' fron the side wall and 15'' from the front wall. This is the optimal, practical position as found using QM in ARC.

The distance from my seat is 8.5' to RF and 9.5' to the sub.

The fronts are Paradigm S2's. They are 3' from backwall, 2.5' from the side walls and raised on stands that place the tweeters at ear-level. They were positioned for the best stereo imaging.

The center, C3, is on a shelf under my plasma centered between the fronts.


I have posted my most recent ARC music graph an targets.


Tom


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> It is still something ARC is not doing and not helping with. Subwoofer phase/polarity is not the same as subwoofer distance so your "or" should actually be replaced with "and"), both of them can be used for speaker phase alignment. Although in my case I got much better results with just varying the subwoofer distance as it is not applying any kind of filters at the crossover point (phase/polarity), just delaying the signal (distance).



Sorry I thought the Anthem "phase" was just an absolute phase adjustment not something funky like that! It actually had no effect for me until 180 degrees, the same as flipping polarity, so I don't use it.


I used quick measure to find the best place for the sub and would rather not move any speakers around. So I will have to be careful fiddling with the crossover points to get smooth interactions. Why fiddle? Because I noticed that ARC tends to give up and just cutoff problematic areas rather than try to EQ them.


Do you guys know if the LFE filter is applied to all bass in the sub channel including redirected bass or just the LFE channel?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now that I think about it, you're right - like you, the only source I have without an HDMI output is actually my Pioneer Elite Laserdisc CLD-97 - what model do you have (just curious)? So I wasn't thinking, other than the laserdisc I'd be feeding HDMI to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> My display is a rear-projection Toshiba 65HX81.
> 
> 
> A quick search didn't turn up any US distributors for the HDfury3 - and honestly not sure about shelling out $400 directly to HDfury, when I'm probably close to buying a new display anyway. There's some much less expensive devices around that do the conversion - Monoprice has one for $40, and there's this one on Amazon that looks pretty good - but not sure how they compare.
> 
> 
> - Mark



I have the lowly CLD-59, wish I had the 97!


I dunno about those cheaper devices. They are probably very limited in bandwidth and what kind of support do they come with? The Fury line has taken a long time to get where they are and each generation has better picture quality and support, more stable firmware, less bugs, etc.


If you're not planning on keeping your set long then see if they'll sell you a HDF2. It will suit your needs, won't cost much, and help you sell that big ol' set.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21736732
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input dkojevnikov and dmusoke.
> 
> 
> dmusoke-- I reread your null/peak post and decided to apply it to my system.
> 
> Since I have only one sub I fortunatly didn't have to match subs to each other first.
> 
> 
> I decided to use the null procedure, but I cheated a little, so please let me know if this is OK since my whole measurement depends on it. Since I have my front speakers bi-wired to the posts with spades (no banana plugs) reversing the wiring is a pita, so I went into the D2 setup menu-Speaker Configuration- and inverted the polarity on the sub during the test. Since the idea is to reverse the relative polarity between the LF and sub I didn't think it should matter where its done.
> 
> *Assuming thats OK*, I then put in a test cd I have that can be set to play specific freqencies. Since my crossovers are set to 60hz for fronts and center in my D2 setup 3a/b (not the cutoffs in ARC) I then played the 60hz track while adjusting the sub distance in the Listener Position section of setup.
> 
> The actual distance is @9.5 ft on a tape measure, but the lowest null reading came in at 18.5 ft. I don't know if its a coincidence that its approximately 2x the actual measurement or if its due to my room dimensions (10.5 ft wide x 17 ft deep) or the wave length of 60 hz, or what
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but that was definitly the distance that got the lowest reading on my SPL meter. So thats the subwoofer distance I input into the D2 setup menu.
> 
> 
> I then went back into 3a/b and set the sub polarity back to normal.
> 
> 
> Bass seems fuller, but not boomy. Can't guarantee that its not placebo effect. Its not a huge difference to me, but definitly seems improved to my ears.
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom:


First of all, congrats on a successful phase cailibration







. Its worth the effort indeed. Yes, you can reverse the sub polarity as you indicated or you can reverse the wires at the back end of your AVR /Power amplifier as well.


The null of 18.5 feet is right on. The actual value should be 18.77ft but ARC only does 0.5ft increments. The speed of sound is 1126 ft/sec (at 20 degrees Celcius), so at 60Hz, the first null is 1,126/60 = 18.77ft. You'll find other nulls at multiples of this distance of 18.77ft for ever (well, within reason for this calculated sub distance could be outside your own house and into the streets







).


----------



## SimonNo10

Well couldn't wait as that +4.5 sub trim was annoying me. I redid ARC after turning each sub up one notch and ARC set it to 0







. Other channels are:


LF:0, RF:0.5, C:0.5, SL:0.5, SR:0.5.


Pretty happy with the sub trim now. Got too late to test the system so will have a listen tomorrow night.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21739682
> 
> 
> Sorry I thought the Anthem "phase" was just an absolute phase adjustment not something funky like that! It actually had no effect for me until 180 degrees, the same as flipping polarity, so I don't use it.



I actually don't know what kind of filter Anthem is using for phase adjustment, it is their secret but by looking at response curve, the result of changing the phase and distance looked different. I could not achieve results similar to varying distance with varying the phase.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

These secrets are revealed by searching for "all-pass filter". It is the standard phase control, delaying the signal by an amount that depends on frequency.


Polarity inversion is different and very often confused with the above in the case of 180 degree shift. Inversion makes the driver go in instead of out and out instead of in, with no delay.


Time alignment is also different. It delays the signal with no other alteration to it.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21739712
> 
> 
> I have the lowly CLD-59, wish I had the 97!



I got lucky on eBay...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I dunno about those cheaper devices. They are probably very limited in bandwidth and what kind of support do they come with? The Fury line has taken a long time to get where they are and each generation has better picture quality and support, more stable firmware, less bugs, etc.



OK, that all makes sense



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you're not planning on keeping your set long then see if they'll sell you a HDF2. It will suit your needs, won't cost much, and help you sell that big ol' set.










Makes sense too, I may try that route.


Thanks.










- Mak


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21741029
> 
> 
> These secrets are revealed by searching for "all-pass filter". It is the standard phase control, delaying the signal by an amount that depends on frequency.
> 
> 
> Polarity inversion is different and very often confused with the above in the case of 180 degree shift. Inversion makes the driver go in instead of out and out instead of in, with no delay.
> 
> 
> Time alignment is also different. It delays the signal with no other alteration to it.



Thanks.


I have a bi-polar sub so my results may be atypical.


----------



## AVfile

Do you guys get a pop from your speakers when turning OFF the AVM/D2?


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21741564
> 
> 
> Do you guys get a pop from your speakers when turning OFF the AVM/D2?



Yes, but it may be my amplifier or amplifier + processor together.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21741564
> 
> 
> Do you guys get a pop from your speakers when turning OFF the AVM/D2?



No. My amps are enabled by D2v triggers and presumably go into standby before the D2v itself completes its power down.

-Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Do you guys get a pop from your speakers when turning OFF the AVM/D2?



I get a slight pop sound when the Krell amp is on and the D2v turns off during the ARC calibration. But under normal conditions I've been told it's advisable to turn on the power amp/Subs after everything else is turned on (D2v,Bluray player,Projector). Then turn off Power amp/subs first when your finished using the system.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, but it may be my amplifier or amplifier + processor together.



I think it is the AVM sending a small spike when it goes down - just minor annoyance, but not something I would expect at this snacking level.


Obviously using triggers would be better, but some people like to keep their amps on (warmed) at all times.


I don't think it would be all that hard for Anthem to fix do you?


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21745269
> 
> 
> I think it is the AVM sending a small spike when it goes down .....



That is indeed so.


Ever wondered by your incandescent light bulbs always tend to blow when you switch on or off, seldom while it's on? Same thing. As any electrical hobbyist can tell you, the switching process causes a spark at the switch or relay poles. This spark is a voltage spike which goes down the setup chain and gets amplified by the amp, hence the "pop". Its also the reason why switching contact points always get charred after some use.


This spark is usually largely absorbed by a filter circuit at the switch poles and power supply filter circuits, but sometimes, depending on design quality, there is a small leakage, so a small "pop". A big "pop" can burn your precious tweeters, as I have learnt from bitter experience.


The recommended procedure in powering down your equipment is to switch off your power amps first, then the pre and finally the sources. The reverse is true for switching on. Guaranteed no "pop".


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/21750210
> 
> 
> Ever wondered by your incandescent light bulbs always tend to blow when you switch on or off, seldom while it's on?



Well, I for one did and found that it's not all that analogous to switching ordinary audio equipment on and off beyond the cringe factor. Perhaps it causes worry because it sends something to the senses, i.e. sound or a flash of light then darkness, but virtually all electrical equipment can be subjected to surges.


In school I learned that the tungsten filament in an incandescent bulb must be run as hot as possible for most efficient light output. There is also the matter of how cheaply bulbs are made and if enough money was spent on it a filament that lasts a lifetime can be had. Household bulbs are intended to be cheap and replaceable which is why they use sockets. Later, as a tube amp hobbyist and technician, I observed that it is rare for the filaments in tubes to burn out whereas a screen grid in a pentode output tube that's biased too low can develop hot spots, visible when peering through the holes in the plate, leading to catastrohpic failure especially if the tube is from a certain factory which cranks out otherwise very cost-effective tubes.


I'm not asking anyone to take my word for it because as a company rep I expect that anything I say will be viewed with skepticism, but then I wouldn't be surprised if this stuff was well known since Edison's time.

http://donklipstein.com/bulb1.html#wbt 


I'm sure everyone here has looked inside a bulb that just failed and noticed that the filament is severed somewhere between the supports. There is no filament in an AVM/D outside of the front panel display.


Getting back to turn on/off spikes coming through speakers, which is more a tick than a pop as any AVM/D owner knows, consider its loudness relative to the loudest sound your speakers can make when playing music (the speaker can't tell whether the current it's seeing is music or noise), or if so inclined try to find any citation of an AVM/D turn on/off spike leading to equipment failure. I've never heard of such a thing and for over a decade I received all the problem reports.


----------



## Steve Dodds

Is it possible to update the AVM 40 with the latest versions of ARC?


It has had the ARC upgrade.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21750430
> 
> 
> Getting back to turn on/off spikes coming through speakers, which is more a tick than a pop as any AVM/D owner knows, consider its loudness relative to the loudest sound your speakers can make when playing music (the speaker can't tell whether the current it's seeing is music or noise), or if so inclined try to find any citation of an AVM/D turn on/off spike leading to equipment failure. I've never heard of such a thing and for over a decade I received all the problem reports.



You're right, of course, Nick. Unlike the olden times, these days it's rare for surges caused by turning off equipment to damage speakers. I still have memorable experience in the 70's with a HK Citation Pre and Amp which did fry my tweeters.


As for tick or pop, it depends on whether there's a biggish woof in your speaker system.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/21750819
> 
> 
> As for tick or pop, it depends on whether there's a biggish woof in your speaker system.



True, and I suppose it's safe enough to assume that there almost always is one in a system with a prepro like AVM/D.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds* /forum/post/21750632
> 
> 
> Is it possible to update the AVM 40 with the latest versions of ARC?



ARC v3 works with all ARC-equipped prepros and AVRs.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21745269
> 
> 
> some people like to keep their amps on (warmed) at all times.



Some amp manufacturers even advise that but from what I've seen, and this involves thousands of Audio Precision measurements on new production and service units, tube and solid state, cold starts and running nonstop for days, sources, preamps, and amps, leaving any of the above on 24/7 in hope of better sound is generally pointless. I'm sure most people realize that virtually all amps have higher temperature when they're playing something at higher than background levels for a little while vs idling for a long while, and I've never seen a controlled listening test involving instant switching between a cold amp (which doesn't stay cold for very long when playing!) and a warm one.


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21751273
> 
> 
> ARC v3 works with all ARC-equipped prepros and AVRs.



Thanks Nick. Another quick question. Does the AVM 40 have a video overlay of the volume and/or inputs status?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds* /forum/post/21753130
> 
> 
> Thanks Nick. Another quick question. Does the AVM 40 have a video overlay of the volume and/or inputs status?



Not in any useful way especially these days - only for S-Video in/out. This is because the AVM 40 has HDMI switching only, no video processing.


Background for anyone interested: We were reluctant to introduce the 40 but had just barely enough requests for a switching-only model to do so. Then a funny thing happened: an increasing number people who home-demoed or bought it came back for the AVM 50 and so began the 40's path to discontinuation. It's not all that surprising. For 2006-2007 when the average deinterlacer left much to be desired, this $1000 step-up added the equivalent of a $4000 outboard video processor, plus the convenience and seamless integration of HDMI audio and video in one box, not to mention on-screen overlay.


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21755467
> 
> 
> Not in any useful way especially these days - only for S-Video in/out. This is because the AVM 40 has HDMI switching only, no video processing.
> 
> 
> Background for anyone interested: We were reluctant to introduce the 40 but had just barely enough requests for a switching-only model to do so. Then a funny thing happened: an increasing number people who home-demoed or bought it came back for the AVM 50 and so began the 40's path to discontinuation. It's not all that surprising. For 2006-2007 when the average deinterlacer left much to be desired, this $1000 step-up added the equivalent of a $4000 outboard video processor, plus the convenience and seamless integration of HDMI audio and video in one box, not to mention on-screen overlay.



Hmm.


I wish I'd read this before pressing the Buy It Now button on an AVM-40 (with ARC) a few hours ago.


I don't need the video processing given my projector (JVC RS20) has similarly fine abilities built-in, but I specifically asked the seller if the AVM40 would do an overlay of volume level via HDMI and he said it did. Whilst this isn't a vital thing, it is very handy when your partner doesn't quite know what to do when there is no sound and so turns up the volume before searching for an active input.


Still, the AVM 40 appears to do enough tweaky things (compared to my MRX 500) that I have a weird desire for but probably don't really need to make it worthwhile given the price is about the same.


Or at least that is what I shall be telling myself.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds* /forum/post/21755595
> 
> 
> Hmm.
> 
> 
> I wish I'd read this before pressing the Buy It Now button on an AVM-40 (with ARC) a few hours ago.
> 
> 
> ... I specifically asked the seller if the AVM40 would do an overlay of volume level via HDMI and he said it did. Whilst this isn't a vital thing, it is very handy when your partner doesn't quite know what to do when there is no sound and so turns up the volume before searching for an active input.



I was just looking at the exact same item for a friend. The OSD overlay is paramount in his case because the AVM will be in a hidden installation. After checking the specs online we were still unsure, so he e-mailed Anthem Tech support the same question you just asked. The answer was "Yes it will do OSD and volume control with HDMI". The question was very carefully worded by the way, so I can only assume they did not carefully read it before answering.


Fortunately he did not buy the AVM-40 as I was suspicious and obtained a second answer from a kind forum member - that made more sense given the unit has no video processor.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21750430
> 
> 
> Getting back to turn on/off spikes coming through speakers, which is more a tick than a pop as any AVM/D owner knows, consider its loudness relative to the loudest sound your speakers can make when playing music (the speaker can't tell whether the current it's seeing is music or noise), or if so inclined try to find any citation of an AVM/D turn on/off spike leading to equipment failure. I've never heard of such a thing and for over a decade I received all the problem reports.



OK I just wanted to make sure there wasn't something wrong with my system and bring the subject to light, not as a defect but in the interest of continuous product improvement.


----------



## terryshep

Any more news on the 3d upgrade


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21755863
> 
> 
> I was just looking at the exact same item for a friend. The OSD overlay is paramount in his case because the AVM will be in a hidden installation. After checking the specs online we were still unsure, so he e-mailed Anthem Tech support the same question you just asked. The answer was "Yes it will do OSD and volume control with HDMI". The question was very carefully worded by the way, so I can only assume they did not carefully read it before answering.
> 
> 
> Fortunately he did not buy the AVM-40 as I was suspicious and obtained a second answer from a kind forum member - that made more sense given the unit has no video processor.



From the manual it does an OSD over HDMI. It was the volume control indication I wanted.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep* /forum/post/21756029
> 
> 
> Any more news on the 3d upgrade



Last word we got is that they are in the final throws of getting the necessary HDMI certification.

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

Hey folks, will the D2v work okay for 3D image? I am thinking of upgrading my Panny 4000 projector to the Panny 7000 which does 3D. Also, does anybody have experience with the 7000 and is anybody using it with a Stewart Firehawk G3. If not, how would this screen (90 inch diaganol) be for 3D? What about my HDMI cable from my D2v to the current Panny 4000, do I need to upgrade that cable for 3D?


Any thoughts/opinions would be greatly appreciated, thanks all.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21760029
> 
> 
> Hey folks, will the D2v work okay for 3D image? I am thinking of upgrading my Panny 4000 projector to the Panny 7000 which does 3D. Also, does anybody have experience with the 7000 and is anybody using it with a Stewart Firehawk G3. If not, how would this screen (90 inch diaganol) be for 3D? What about my HDMI cable from my D2v to the current Panny 4000, do I need to upgrade that cable for 3D?
> 
> 
> Any thoughts/opinions would be greatly appreciated, thanks all.



The D2v will not pass 3D signals (except for the special format that embeds 3D in a regular 1080p signal at half resolution).


What you need to do right now is bypass the D2v to get 3D to your new display. A player with two HDMI outputs such as the Oppo 93 or 95 would make that easy.


"Real Soon Now" an upgrade will be offered for the D2v that replaces half the HDMI inputs and one of the HDMI outputs with new hardware and enables "pass through" of 3D signals on the new hardware. Pricing is not set.


You need "1080p High Speed" HDMI cables (both in and out). You may already have those. Nothing beyond that is needed for 3D. You DON'T need the cable version that also includes Ethernet.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12

Here's a link with my sub response vs jayray's sub response. I think this is as close as I can get to matching jayray's sub. What do you think?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post21761845


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21761857
> 
> 
> Here's a link with my sub response vs jayray's sub response. I think this is as close as I can get to matching jayray's sub. What do you think?
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post21761845



Sure looks good indeed







. Did you use the SubEQ first before you ran ARC?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Sure looks good indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Did you use the SubEQ first before you ran ARC?



I used PBK first. Not sure what ninja used.

John


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21762864
> 
> 
> Sure looks good indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Did you use the SubEQ first before you ran ARC?



Yes, I used my Sub's EQ before I ran ARC. However, the first thing I did was to find the best location that gave me the flattest response without using any EQ at all. After I found that, then I used my Sub's EQ.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I used my Sub's EQ before I ran ARC. However, the first thing I did was to find the best location that gave me the flattest response without using any EQ at all. After I found that, then I used my Sub's EQ.



+1

john


----------



## MStanic

Anybody have any opinion on the Denon preamp (AVP-A1HDCI) in comparison to the D2v? The Denon seems to have a ton of features in comparison to the D2v. It's also been made HDMI 1.4 ready.


What's the 3D HDMI upgrade going to cost for the D2v and is there any other reason for the upgrade on the D2v besides HDMI 1.4 compliancy? Will we ever see the D2v with an ethernet connection as most receivers nowadays including the Denon preamp?


With respect to the following comment:


*** What you need to do right now is bypass the D2v to get 3D to your new display. A player with two HDMI outputs such as the Oppo 93 or 95 would make that easy. ***


Does this mean I am hooking on HDMI out from the Oppo directly to the projector and then the other HDMI from the Oppo to the D2v so that picture is processed by the Oppo/Projector and sound by the Oppo/D2v. Is there any advantage or drawback to this setup if I forego the upgrade to the D2v? Assuming, of course, that the upgrade to the D2v is only to address HDMI 1.4 for 3D playback via the D2v.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anybody have any opinion on the Denon preamp (AVP-A1HDCI) in comparison to the D2v? The Denon seems to have a ton of features in comparison to the D2v. It's also been made HDMI 1.4 ready.
> 
> 
> What's the 3D HDMI upgrade going to cost for the D2v and is there any other reason for the upgrade on the D2v besides HDMI 1.4 compliancy? Will we ever see the D2v with an ethernet connection as most receivers nowadays including the Denon preamp?
> 
> 
> With respect to the following comment:
> 
> 
> *** What you need to do right now is bypass the D2v to get 3D to your new display. A player with two HDMI outputs such as the Oppo 93 or 95 would make that easy. ***
> 
> 
> Does this mean I am hooking on HDMI out from the Oppo directly to the projector and then the other HDMI from the Oppo to the D2v so that picture is processed by the Oppo/Projector and sound by the Oppo/D2v. Is there any advantage or drawback to this setup if I forego the upgrade to the D2v? Assuming, of course, that the upgrade to the D2v is only to address HDMI 1.4 for 3D playback via the D2v.



One hdmi to pj from oppo and the other to D2v for uncompressed sound from oppo. Therefore upgrade not needed.

Ethernet not likely until a new model comes out.

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21764373
> 
> 
> 
> With respect to the following comment:
> 
> 
> *** What you need to do right now is bypass the D2v to get 3D to your new display. A player with two HDMI outputs such as the Oppo 93 or 95 would make that easy. ***
> 
> 
> Does this mean I am hooking on HDMI out from the Oppo directly to the projector and then the other HDMI from the Oppo to the D2v so that picture is processed by the Oppo/Projector and sound by the Oppo/D2v. Is there any advantage or drawback to this setup if I forego the upgrade to the D2v? Assuming, of course, that the upgrade to the D2v is only to address HDMI 1.4 for 3D playback via the D2v.



I'm not familiar with the with the Denon preamp, so I will let others comment on how it compares to the D2v, but I use the Oppo 93 with my D2 connected the way you described.


The only disadvantage is you may need to buy another hdmi cable to connect to both the projector and D2v. The Oppo comes with a more than adequate 6' hdmi cable.


The advantage is you will get an excellent universal disc player (BR/3d, DVD, DVD-A, SACD,CD) from a company that prides itself on superior customer care. Between the excellent video processing in the Oppo and the outstanding audio D/A conversion in the Anthem you should be very happy. Maybe even ecstatic.


If possible audition both the D2v and the Denon and see (and hear) what you think, but Bob's suggestion of the Oppo is more than a work-around. Its a very good option.


Tom


----------



## MStanic

So going the Oppo player with two HDMI outs makes the D2v upgrade redundant then? In other words, other than flexibility/setup whereby it's all processed by the D2v, is the only real advantage to this upgrade. Then again, have to factor cost. Oppo player, extra cable and not being able to use my Sony's for 3D playback (including PS3, don't care for games though).


Any word on pricing for this upgrade and when we can start sending our units in and how long the turnaround time is. I guess new units will be made with HDMI 1.4 already installed.


Is the Panny 7000 currently the best 3D projector out there?


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There are several reasons for getting the 3D upgrade.


First, you might already have a 3D source device that only has one HDMI output.


Second, you might have more than one 3D source device. Even if they ALL have dual outputs, running each of them direct to your TV is a nuisance.


Third, you might want to take advantage of video processing in the D2v when you are NOT using it in "pass through" mode for 3D. For example, if you aren't thrilled with the SD-DVD de-interlacing or upscaling performance in your otherwise acceptable 3D Blu-ray player and would rather have the D2v do the heavy lifting.


Fourth, you've got a long cable run -- as to a projector -- or it is otherwise inconvenient for you to make a second cable run to the display to carry 3D from a dual output source device.


-----------------------------------------


Pricing and availability have not been announced, although my understanding is that new D2v units being sold today by authorized dealers will get the upgrade, when available, for no additional charge -- as a dealer install, not a return to the factory. Check with your dealer to be sure on this.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

So long 3D upgrade questions, until the next time










-----------------------


I have found another minor bug with the beta firmware (2.13b) :


When playing a 5.1 digital source, if you press MODE on the remote or front panel the first time after power-up, the display shows 5.1 LATE NIGHT. If you change the mode it displays correctly.


My mode preset for all the 5.1 formats is LAST USED.


----------



## SimonNo10

I've had a few issues with 2.13b. First loss of audio after switching sources then back again while watching a Bluray (had source set to dvd watching originally). I've had the main display on the D2v all broken up with missing letters had to turn off and on top rectify. I played The Watchmen on Bluray on the weekend and the audio kept dropping out (first time since owning the movie this has happened), disc has no marks or scratches. Accessing the main menu on screen results in hit and miss sometimes it simply wont display at all. I've decided to go back to 2.11 and make the neccesary level changes for DTS-HD MA +3 for fronts, -3 for centre. 2.13b is too erratic for me.


My question is should I redo ARC after changing the main firmware?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21774174
> 
> 
> I've had a few issues with 2.13b. First loss of audio after switching sources then back again while watching a Bluray (had source set to dvd watching originally). I've had the main display on the D2v all broken up with missing letters had to turn off and on top rectify. I played The Watchmen on Bluray on the weekend and the audio kept dropping out (first time since owning the movie this has happened), disc has no marks or scratches. Accessing the main menu on screen results in hit and miss sometimes it simply wont display at all. I've decided to go back to 2.11 and make the neccesary level changes for DTS-HD MA +3 for fronts, -3 for centre. 2.13b is too erratic for me.
> 
> 
> My question is should I redo ARC after changing the main firmware?



No need to re Measure for ARC, but while you've got the cable hooked up, I'd suggest you re Upload your existing ARC solution after the firmware install (and restoring your Setup setting) "just in case". It's not supposed to be necessary, but it just takes a few minutes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21771739
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> I have found another minor bug with the beta firmware (2.13b) :
> 
> 
> When playing a 5.1 digital source, if you press MODE on the remote or front panel the first time after power-up, the display shows 5.1 LATE NIGHT. If you change the mode it displays correctly.
> 
> 
> My mode preset for all the 5.1 formats is LAST USED.



Not happening here. Check your Dynamics setting when playing such a track after power up by pressing the 0 button once (to view Dolby Volume) and then again (to view non-Dolby Volume, DD DTS Dynamics).

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> No need to re Measure for ARC, but while you've got the cable hooked up, I'd suggest you re Upload your existing ARC solution after the firmware install (and restoring your Setup setting) "just in case". It's not supposed to be necessary, but it just takes a few minutes.



Thanks Bob. I put on 2.11 the other night so will upload my last ARC tonight to cover all bases.


----------



## [email protected]!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21761252
> 
> 
> "Real Soon Now" an upgrade will be offered for the D2v that replaces half the HDMI inputs and one of the HDMI outputs with new hardware and enables *"pass through"* of 3D signals on the new hardware. Pricing is not set.
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Is "Pass Through" also for 2D signals?


Thanks


----------



## SimonNo10

I can't remember if I have asked this question before so apologies if I have. I used to own an SVS ASEQ sub EQ unit but sold it over 2 years ago (had only 1 sub at the time). Now I'm contemplating getting another one to help improve my bass as I have 2 Seaton Submersives. Is it worth it and will the SVS EQ unit assist or help ARC in it's overall result?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21776006
> 
> 
> I can't remember if I have asked this question before so apologies if I have. I used to own an SVS ASEQ sub EQ unit but sold it over 2 years ago (had only 1 sub at the time). Now I'm contemplating getting another one to help improve my bass as I have 2 Seaton Submersives. Is it worth it and will the SVS EQ unit assist or help ARC in it's overall result?



I suggest to just try ARC first and see how it looks. You may have to play around with different sub locations also to see which location gives you the smoothest response and to make sure they are not canceling each other out. This is where Quick Measure (QM) becomes your friend. Once you have done that and your charts are still not to your satisfaction, then I would say you should add the EQ. If you do add the EQ, then use the EQ first and then run ARC after you have EQed the subs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]!* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Is "Pass Through" also for 2D signals?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yes. But be aware that this also loses on screen display of things like Volume changes. I can think of no good reason to want to use "pass through" except when playing 3D content.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21776006
> 
> 
> I can't remember if I have asked this question before so apologies if I have. I used to own an SVS ASEQ sub EQ unit but sold it over 2 years ago (had only 1 sub at the time). Now I'm contemplating getting another one to help improve my bass as I have 2 Seaton Submersives. Is it worth it and will the SVS EQ unit assist or help ARC in it's overall result?



You are aware the SVS AS-EQ1 was discontinued ?


----------



## EL

Last time I checked (it's been a while) frame lock was not working right


so for 1080p24 (blu-ray movie) I created a 1080p24 video output and a 1080p60 video output for gaming (using PS3). I manually switch between DVD1 (1080p60) and DVD2 (1080p24) depending on the need.


with passthrough, it would not matter. I would see just that as a nice reason to have passthrough for 2D signal


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not happening here. Check your Dynamics setting when playing such a track after power up by pressing the 0 button once (to view Dolby Volume) and then again (to view non-Dolby Volume, DD DTS Dynamics).
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for checking.


They are set to NORMAL / OFF. They even say so if I check when the mode is shown as LATE NIGHT.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21776791
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking.
> 
> 
> They are set to NORMAL / OFF. They even say so if I check when the mode is shown as LATE NIGHT.



Try this:


In Setup, Save User Settings (so you can easily recover later). Reset Factory Defaults. Exit the Setup menu. Power cycle the D2v.


Now power up and manually re-enter just the bare minimum Setup settings needed to test this problem -- i.e., get video on your display and get access to one Source device.


Power cycle again and see if this problem still exists. IF NOT, then you may have some sort of corruption in your regular set of Setup settings.


Try manually re-entering *ALL* of your Setup settings (a chore to be sure) and see if the problem is still solved. IF SO, then whatever was wrong with your original set of Setup settings may also explain some of the other problems you've been having.


The idea here is that V2.13b may not be playing nice with pre-existing Setup settings. Which would be a bug of course. This could happen, for example, if the settings really are corrupted in some fashion -- perhaps due to a problem that occurred quite some time ago -- and the new V2.13b firmware is sensitive to that corruption whereas V2.11 does not notice it.


NOTE: Don't forget you'll need to re-enter your Video Source Adjust menu settings as well for each Source. If there's not time to do all that now, you can just Reload Saved User Settings for now and do the time consuming process of starting from scratch later.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21776006
> 
> 
> I can't remember if I have asked this question before so apologies if I have. I used to own an SVS ASEQ sub EQ unit but sold it over 2 years ago (had only 1 sub at the time). Now I'm contemplating getting another one to help improve my bass as I have 2 Seaton Submersives. Is it worth it and will the SVS EQ unit assist or help ARC in it's overall result?



I have a Velodyne SMS 1 and find that if I equallize with it first and get as good as a response as I can get, I then run ARC and my ARC chart looks better and I would imagine ARC has less to do. I have tried the other way around, tweaking with the Velodyne SMS 1 last but running ARC last gives me the best results. Note that the frequency response graph for the Velodyne looks nothing like ARC's in that if I equalize with the Velodyne and have a very good flat responce, when I run ARC, ARC's response looks nothing like the Velodyne's.


----------



## xtrips

Hello

Anybody tried the new 2.13g FW for the D2v?

It is specific for non-3D D2v's.


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> Anybody tried the new 2.13g FW for the D2v?
> 
> It is specific for non-3D D2v's.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Works with 3D AVM50v and D2v as well.

John


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21777968
> 
> 
> Works with 3D as well.
> 
> John



Yes but only beta testers have the 3D board, right?

I was asking for all the guys like me that have a D2v but no 3D.

Do we have any incentive to upgrade to 2.13g?

The release notes don't say much.

And I do not want to try it myself









I've been down this path with 2.13b and back.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes but only beta testers have the 3D board, right?
> 
> I was asking for all the guys like me that have a D2v but no 3D.
> 
> Do we have any incentive to upgrade to 2.13g?
> 
> The release notes don't say much.
> 
> And I do not want to try it myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been down this path with 2.13b and back.



I haven't tried it but I'm not sure what it improves yet.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The recent firmware development has all been in support of the new hardware (the upcoming 3D "pass through" upgrade). The intention is to have one firmware release that also supports the NON-upgraded hardware. Posters here who took it upon themselves to try the test firmware with NON-upgraded hardware reported some problems. Frankly, I'm amazed it worked at all.


This new "test" firmware, V2.13g, is the FIRST one which states it is intended to work with the NON-upgraded hardware. Until folks try it, there's no way to know. I imagine some brave souls will try it soon.


As with all "test" releases, this firmware is not finished yet. So don't even bother to try it unless you are OK with the possibility of unpleasant surprises -- up to and including having to roll back to prior firmware.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^ The recent firmware development has all been in support of the new hardware (the upcoming 3D "pass through" upgrade). The intention is to have one firmware release that also supports the NON-upgraded hardware. Posters here who took it upon themselves to try the test firmware with NON-upgraded hardware reported some problems. Frankly, I'm amazed it worked at all.
> 
> 
> This new "test" firmware, V2.13g, is the FIRST one which states it is intended to work with the NON-upgraded hardware. Until folks try it, there's no way to know. I imagine some brave souls will try it soon.
> 
> 
> As with all "test" releases, this firmware is not finished yet. So don't even bother to try it unless you are OK with the possibility of unpleasant surprises -- up to and including having to roll back to prior firmware.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Do you know what this firmware fixes?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Nope. I just installed it (on a 3D modified D2v), and it does *NOT* fix two pending problems I've been tracking. The install went without problems -- it is the extended length install due to modifying the video board firmware -- and the unit passes all my initial sanity checks after the install. I.e., it works.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^ Nope. I just installed it (on a 3D modified D2v), and it does *NOT* fix two pending problems I've been tracking. The install went without problems -- it is the extended length install due to modifying the video board firmware -- and the unit passes all my initial sanity checks after the install. I.e., it works.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks.

John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I suggest to just try ARC first and see how it looks. You may have to play around with different sub locations also to see which location gives you the smoothest response and to make sure they are not canceling each other out. This is where Quick Measure (QM) becomes your friend. Once you have done that and your charts are still not to your satisfaction, then I would say you should add the EQ. If you do add the EQ, then use the EQ first and then run ARC after you have EQed the subs.



Yep spent a few hours moving both subs using QM a few weeks ago but nothing really worked well or showed huge improvements.



> Quote:
> You are aware the SVS AS-EQ1 was discontinued ?



No I didn't but I can still purchase the unit locally here in Australia without issue from a guy that sells SVS subs/speakers here.



> Quote:
> I have a Velodyne SMS 1 and find that if I equallize with it first and get as good as a response as I can get, I then run ARC and my ARC chart looks better and I would imagine ARC has less to do.



This is what I'm thinking so any improvement is a good one







. Thanks for all the responses guys.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips* /forum/post/21777633
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> Anybody tried the new 2.13g FW for the D2v?
> 
> It is specific for non-3D D2v's.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I just installed it on my non-modified 50V. Works better, looks like all the HDCP/handshaking issues are gone and switching is a bit faster. I had lots of handshake issues with previous firmwares.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21779554
> 
> 
> I just installed it on my non-modified 50V. Works better, looks like all the HDCP/handshaking issues are gone and switching is a bit faster. I had lots of handshake issues with previous firmwares.



Finally, maybe a stable beta







...


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21776006
> 
> 
> I can't remember if I have asked this question before so apologies if I have. I used to own an SVS ASEQ sub EQ unit but sold it over 2 years ago (had only 1 sub at the time). Now I'm contemplating getting another one to help improve my bass as I have 2 Seaton Submersives. Is it worth it and will the SVS EQ unit assist or help ARC in it's overall result?



I run one with a pair of JL Fathom f113's. It didn't do much for my ARC measurements as the subs were pretty good to start, but what it did do was make it a snap to get both subs playing nicely together and getting the phase right. Any of that can be done manually with a bit of work. I had one before I purchased my AVM so I used it. Had I had ARC first, I wouldn't own an ASEQ-1.


----------



## johnfusco

Running my SVS sub EQ first did help ARC give me the flattest response for my room.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21778439
> 
> 
> ^ Nope. I just installed it (on a 3D modified D2v), and it does *NOT* fix two pending problems I've been tracking. The install went without problems -- it is the extended length install due to modifying the video board firmware -- and the unit passes all my initial sanity checks after the install. I.e., it works.
> 
> --Bob



Hmmm, Anthem tech support hasn't replied to me about any of my 6 or 7 non-3D issues lately so I wasn't expecting this, but that hasn't stopped them quietly fixing bugs in the past


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I run one with a pair of JL Fathom f113's. It didn't do much for my ARC measurements as the subs were pretty good to start, but what it did do was make it a snap to get both subs playing nicely together and getting the phase right. Any of that can be done manually with a bit of work. I had one before I purchased my AVM so I used it. Had I had ARC first, I wouldn't own an ASEQ-1.





> Quote:
> Running my SVS sub EQ first did help ARC give me the flattest response for my room



Thanks guys. I contacted the place that sells SVS subs locally and he didn't have any ASEQ-1's left.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21776869
> 
> 
> Try this:
> 
> 
> In Setup, Save User Settings (so you can easily recover later). Reset Factory Defaults. Exit the Setup menu. Power cycle the D2v.
> 
> 
> Now power up and manually re-enter just the bare minimum Setup settings needed to test this problem -- i.e., get video on your display and get access to one Source device.
> 
> 
> Power cycle again and see if this problem still exists. IF NOT, then you may have some sort of corruption in your regular set of Setup settings.
> 
> 
> Try manually re-entering *ALL* of your Setup settings (a chore to be sure) and see if the problem is still solved. IF SO, then whatever was wrong with your original set of Setup settings may also explain some of the other problems you've been having.
> 
> 
> The idea here is that V2.13b may not be playing nice with pre-existing Setup settings. Which would be a bug of course. This could happen, for example, if the settings really are corrupted in some fashion -- perhaps due to a problem that occurred quite some time ago -- and the new V2.13b firmware is sensitive to that corruption whereas V2.11 does not notice it.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Don't forget you'll need to re-enter your Video Source Adjust menu settings as well for each Source. If there's not time to do all that now, you can just Reload Saved User Settings for now and do the time consuming process of starting from scratch later.
> 
> --Bob



I just reset the AVM to factory defaults and the LATE NIGHT mode problem is still there. I also tried 2.11 and 2.13g. They all behave the same. Can someone with a 50v try this? All you have to do is set one of the MODE PRESETS (eg: 6.0 or DTS) to "LAST USED" and play something with that format. When the display reads the expected format (eg: 5.1) press the MODE button and you will see LATE NIGHT.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


However loading factory defaults fixes another problem I was having with a hissing noise on SACD (Sony BDP @ 176kHz PCM). I am now worried that there could be other corruptions causing degradation of performance - the hissing just happens to be an obvious one - so I will have to reload all my settings manually!


EDIT: as soon as I turn off ARC the hissing is back, even with factory defaults. So that was the magic setting, I guess with the latest beta firmware. With the previous firmware I am sure I tried SACD with ARC on and off (so did Anthem) to no effect. I don't know what's going on, unless they half fixed something...


----------



## bekindrewind

I'm trying to figure out why I am haveing switching problems.

Let's say I use my Harmony one remote to turn on my D2v, (D2v turns on the McIntosh MC205) TV and Oppo player. Sometimes everything comes on and works as it should. Sometimes I may have a picture, no sound, eventhough the MC205 got turned on. Sometimes sound no picture. Let's say I started with DVD, get picture no sound. I'll try and select another sorce like TV, wait for it to cycle thru, then back to DVD and find sometime it corrects it and it works, sometimes not. I find I have to turn the D2v off and on, to fix the problem. Do you think one or more of my circuit boards are going bad?


So I was looking into my setting and now I have a question about the 12v trigger. What is Baud Rate, Flow Control and RS-232 TX Status?


Baud rate, which setting... 2400, 4800, 9600, 19200, 38400, 57600, 115200.


Flow control options... none and RTS/CTS.


RS-232 TX Status...off or on?


I don't think one of those setting will help me with the switching problems, but I should confirm I have those set correctly.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21784018
> 
> 
> Thanks guys. I contacted the place that sells SVS subs locally and he didn't have any ASEQ-1's left.



The funny thing is that i bought the ASEQ1 more than a year ago and never got around to open up the box. It's still in the same box the UPS man brought it in, tape and all. Keep thinking that i would use it one day?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bekindrewind* /forum/post/21785430
> 
> 
> I'm trying to figure out why I am haveing switching problems.
> 
> Let's say I use my Harmony one remote to turn on my D2v, (D2v turns on the McIntosh MC205) TV and Oppo player. Sometimes everything comes on and works as it should. Sometimes I may have a picture, no sound, eventhough the MC205 got turned on. Sometimes sound no picture. Let's say I started with DVD, get picture no sound. I'll try and select another sorce like TV, wait for it to cycle thru, then back to DVD and find sometime it corrects it and it works, sometimes not. I find I have to turn the D2v off and on, to fix the problem. Do you think one or more of my circuit boards are going bad?
> 
> 
> So I was looking into my setting and now I have a question about the 12v trigger. What is Baud Rate, Flow Control and RS-232 TX Status?
> 
> 
> Baud rate, which setting... 2400, 4800, 9600, 19200, 38400, 57600, 115200.
> 
> 
> Flow control options... none and RTS/CTS.
> 
> 
> RS-232 TX Status...off or on?
> 
> 
> I don't think one of those setting will help me with the switching problems, but I should confirm I have those set correctly.



Leave those at the factory default settings unless you NEED to change one of them because you are using a type of remote control that connects to the serial port on the D2v.


You can see the default settings in a picture in the Manual. Or you can go into Setup and Save User Settings, Reload Factory Defaults, note down the default settings, and then Load User Settings to get back where you were. Adjust those back to the defaults.


That said, I seriously doubt any setting in there has any bearing on the problem you are trying to fix with your power up sequence.


----------------------------------------


The usual advice for power up problems is to power things up in reverse order of the HDMI connections. I.e., TV on first, then wait, then D2v on, then wait, then Source device on.


In the configuration for your Harmony, you can control the power-on order for devices for each Activity. You can also specify a power on delay for each device -- how much the Harmony waits before going to the next step when it turns something on.


The usual problem in power up order is the displays. They are slow to get their act together on power up and thus don't respond properly when the HDMI handshakes start. The reason why audio is sometimes affected is that HDMI is an end to end protocol. So the establishment of the correct connection between the Source and the D2v also depends on things going right between the D2v and the TV.


Before fiddling with the Harmony setup. TEST THIS by getting the original remotes for each device and MANUALLY powering them up in the suggested order and with a significant delay after each device powers up and before you power up the next device. If you find this ordering works well with the original remotes THEN is the time to start fiddling with your Harmony setup.


There's a whole Forum here devoted to programmable remotes where you can get advice on how to find the correct adjustments in your Harmony configuration.


----------------------------------------------


When switching between Sources, the power up delay in the Harmony also comes into play as, by default, the Harmony turns devices off and back on again as it thinks you are using them.


In addition, there's ANOTHER delay setting -- a pause after Source Selection, which says how long the Harmony waits after given the new Source Selection command to the D2v before it sends subsequent commands.


To see if your problem is power on/off related for the Sources, you can temporarily set the Harmony to LEAVE EACH DEVICE ON all the time -- even when it is not used in the current Activity. If you find your Source switching works better that way, then, again adjusting the power on delay in the Harmony configuration for each device may do the trick.


----------------------------------------------


If you find you are still having problems even when using the original device remote controls -- so you can do commands manually with any arbitrary amount of delay -- then that suggests what's really going on here is an HDMI cabling problem.


Test this by temporarily setting each Source, AND ALSO the output of the D2v to 480p. 480p (not 480i) is the "simplest" signal for HDMI. See if Source switching now works. Then try 1080i. Then back to 1080p. If you find things work OK when using 480p and 1080i, but not when using 1080p, then that is strong evidence that your HDMI cabling is marginal. This could be as simple as a plug having shifted a bit in its socket. They are only friction fit, and even the weight of the cable can cause them to shift.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21785030
> 
> 
> I just reset the AVM to factory defaults and the LATE NIGHT mode problem is still there. I also tried 2.11 and 2.13g. They all behave the same. Can someone with a 50v try this? All you have to do is set one of the MODE PRESETS (eg: 6.0 or DTS) to "LAST USED" and play something with that format. When the display reads the expected format (eg: 5.1) press the MODE button and you will see LATE NIGHT.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> However loading factory defaults fixes another problem I was having with a hissing noise on SACD (Sony BDP @ 176kHz PCM). I am now worried that there could be other corruptions causing degradation of performance - the hissing just happens to be an obvious one - so I will have to reload all my settings manually!
> 
> 
> EDIT: as soon as I turn off ARC the hissing is back, even with factory defaults. So that was the magic setting, I guess with the latest beta firmware. With the previous firmware I am sure I tried SACD with ARC on and off (so did Anthem) to no effect. I don't know what's going on, unless they half fixed something...



I had not noticed you were using LAST USED as the Mode Preset to get this failure. It may be your unit is having trouble recording the Audio Surround Mode status when it powers off, so it is getting a bad value the first time it tries after power up. Alternatively, it could be the Mode *IS* being set correctly, but it is just the formatting of the text display which is getting confused.


The way to test that is to establish some easy to spot mode and then power cycle and see if that mode is in fact in use when it starts up, despite the display showing the wrong message. For example, if you could get the problem to show using Stereo source content, then you could set, say Stereo ALL or Mono ALL, which would be easy to spot if it really gets used after the power cycle.


------------------------------------------------


On the SACD hiss problem, note that there are some settings which are disabled when ARC is ON. Things like Center EQ get superseded by ARC's processing. But when you turn ARC OFF those settings come back into play. So check your audio settings to see if there's anything strange left in these legacy settings.


Next, try with a different SACD player. The DSD format used to encode data on SACD discs is inherently subject to significant quantization noise. A technique called "noise shaping" is used with SACD to push that noise up above 20KHz at the expense of making it more severe above that. It could be your SACD player is letting too much noise through in its conversion of DSD to LPCM to send to the D2v.


By the way, in conversion of SACD to analog, a filter is supposed to be included to kill off frequencies above 50KHz. This trims that format related noise (which has nothing to do with the content or how it was produced) and keeps it from causing problems. The equivalent for LPCM output is to use 88.2KHz instead of 176.4 KHz LPCM. The math is such that 88.2 KHz automatically prevents frequencies above 44.1KHz from getting into the output signal. Thus that format related quantization noise is squelched.


Another thing to try is a NON-SACD source. For example, the 2L brand Blu-ray music discs include 192KHz 24-bit multi-channel LPCM tracks. See if you have the problem there as well. Again, it would be wise to also try another Blu-ray player if you are using the same player as before for this Blu-ray test.


Finally, hiss is often due to radio frequency interference getting into your electronics. Why it would only show up for these 176.4KHz tracks would be a puzzle, but you should think about possible sources of interference. The usual culprit when it comes to hiss is room light dimmer switches -- perhaps in an adjacent room. Those switches usually have a full cutoff mechanical switch on them (used when changing bulbs). Use that to power off the dimmer, rather than just turning it down all the way, and see if your hiss goes away.

--Bob


----------



## bekindrewind

Bob Pariseau,

Thank you for taking the time to elaborate with such detail. I will try everything you suggested and post my results. Others may have or down the road run into this situation also.

The forum is lucky to have people like Bob helping us.

Cheers,

bekindrewind.


----------



## Lefreck

Where can I get the beta software for my D2v? Di I have to register with Anthem to get access? On there home page there's only the2.10 firmware. My unit was delivered with 2.11...


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lefreck* /forum/post/21790009
> 
> 
> Where can I get the beta software for my D2v? Di I have to register with Anthem to get access? On there home page there's only the2.10 firmware. My unit was delivered with 2.11...



You have to request the username and password from tech support for the link to the beta directory. I think they usually give it out pretty freely but they do want to keep track of users.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

It's password protected because it has a specific purpose. Things can go wrong when development software is used without knowing what it is. If you're not sure, just ask tech support before using it.


----------



## Steve Dodds

I recently bought an AVM-40 and I was finally able to set it up today.


However, it is really buggy, mainly with HDMI.


I'm hoping it just needs a firmware upgrade, however, when I press Select it doesn't give firmware details - just shows AVM40/ARC v1.479. Is there any other way to see the firmware?


I've downloaded 1.33, but the USB Serial adaptor I have (which worked just fine with my MRX-500) isn't working here. When I try the upgrade the Anthem turns off, but then the software says it can't find an AVM50. Should I just grab the official Keyspan?


Also the OSD (via HDMI) works on my projector but not on my monitor (Sony EX400). It says the input is not supported. I assume it is outputting 480i. Do some monitors have trouble with this?


Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds* /forum/post/21797322
> 
> 
> I recently bought an AVM-40 and I was finally able to set it up today.
> 
> 
> However, it is really buggy, mainly with HDMI.
> 
> 
> I'm hoping it just needs a firmware upgrade, however, when I press Select it doesn't give firmware details - just shows AVM40/ARC v1.479. Is there any other way to see the firmware?
> 
> 
> I've downloaded 1.33, but the USB Serial adaptor I have (which worked just fine with my MRX-500) isn't working here. When I try the upgrade the Anthem turns off, but then the software says it can't find an AVM50. Should I just grab the official Keyspan?
> 
> 
> Also the OSD (via HDMI) works on my projector but not on my monitor (Sony EX400). It says the input is not supported. I assume it is outputting 480i. Do some monitors have trouble with this?
> 
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.



Sounds like you nabbed the firmware installer for the AVM-50 instead of for the AVM-40.


The "official" firmware for the AVM-40 is V1.33, but of course you need the copy of that for the right hardware. Get it here:

http://archive.anthemav.com/NewSitev...edProduct.html 


The "test" firmware for the AVM-40 is V1.47g. I suspect that's what you have on your unit now (and not "V1.479" as you posted). That firmware comes from Anthem tech support. I suggest you email Anthem and ask them whether they advise leaving V1.47g in your AVM-40 or replacing it with the "official" V1.33 firmware. The V1.47g firmware fixed problems with certain connected hardware, but generally the "official" firmware is the one to use. Let Anthem know what you intend to use for Source devices and Display.


-----------------------------------------------------


Your problem getting the firmware install to work is most likely that you downloaded the wrong V1.33 file. Nevertheless, yes, you should get the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/serial adapter as it is the most reliable and robust one that we know of.


-----------------------------------------------------


Many monitors have problems with 480i input. In the AVM-40, the on-screen display works with S-video Source inputs only. See the Manual, Section 3.12


-----------------------------------------------------


HDMI problems can certainly be confusing, but the trick is to start simply. 480p is the simplest signal for HDMI to handle. Try using that from your Source devices and see if you can get the basic setup settings figured out. Then go from there to the resolutions you really want to use.


Keep in mind that the single most common reason for HDMI problems is cabling -- marginal cables or plugs not properly inserted in sockets.

--Bob


----------



## Steve Dodds

Thanks Bob, nice pickup on the AVM-50 firmware.


How embarrassing.


The adapter works OK now and I've rolled it back to 1.33 and it appears to be more stable, even with the splitter to my projector.


Still no joy on getting the setup menu onto the Sony monitor. Its specs say it handles 480i, but not so far.


I was referring to the setup menu before, not the OSD (assuming they are different).


All the other sources seem to be working fine, although 1080P from the new AppleTV is a little shaky.


Hopefully I can stop power-cycling it when changing inputs.


Next step will be to see if I can retrieve my old ARC measurements from my MRX.


----------



## Lefreck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645* /forum/post/21790050
> 
> 
> You have to request the username and password from tech support for the link to the beta directory. I think they usually give it out pretty freely but they do want to keep track of users.



Thanks, I'll give it a try...


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21797391
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Many monitors have problems with 480i input.
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



According the manual, the AVM-40 can output the Setup Menu on 480i and 576i.


Is there any way to force it to output one or the other so I can see if my monitor will have better luck with it?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds* /forum/post/21800601
> 
> 
> According the manual, the AVM-40 can output the Setup Menu on 480i and 576i.
> 
> 
> Is there any way to force it to output one or the other so I can see if my monitor will have better luck with it?



For HDMI output, no. It is selected automatically by the HDMI handshake. If you run S-video output to your display you can change S-Video OSD in Video Configuration between NTSC and PAL to force one or the other.


To see if you can get HDMI output to work at 480i, in Setup > Video Output try both choices of Sync, and also try explicit choices of DATA (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of Auto. Remember that you will need to Confirm such a change before it takes effect. Some displays will need the alternate Sync setting to work with HDMI 480i. And using an explicit Data choice simplifies the HDMI handshake.

--Bob


----------



## Steve Dodds

Thanks again. I tried the various options in Sync and Data and the monitor seems to have a think before deciding the format still should not be supported. However, I didn't explicitly Confirm, rather just scrolled through.


How does one explicitly Confirm?


If the output is selected via handshake with the monitor, there may be a way to get the monitor to ask for either 480i or 576i.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Setup will ask you to confirm as you exit from the Video Configuration menu. Changes you make in there don't actually take effect until you confirm on the way out of that menu.

--Bob


----------



## Steve Dodds

Well, I discovered that switching the S-Video OSD from PAL to NTSC also switches the HDMI out, should one need to do this.


And that changes to the SYNC and DATA menus are live, but don't stick unless you confirm them.


But none of this made my monitor recognize the Setup Menu, whereas the projector is just fine.


Oh well, the Sony was annoying me anyway because of weird shut-offs so this could be a good reason to replace it.


Thanks for the suggestions.


----------



## scheong

Hi,


I have an AVM-50V. I just got a new subwoofer today and went through ARC measurements. The graphs look good and uploaded the new ARC configs to the 50v. My movie and music configs are almost the same except I specified "no speaker" for the center in music.


Listened to some music and couple of movie scenes and am quite happy with everything. I was going to try different subwoofer distances for phase adjustment when I noticed that the subwoofer polarity setting is different between the movie and music configs. In the movie config, polarity setting is "normal". In the music config, polarity setting is "inverted". Has anyone seen this before? Shouldn't the polarity setting be the same? I am thinking I need to get this figured out before playing around with subwoofer distance, correct?


Thanx.


Stanley


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Sub Polarity is not set by the ARC Upload. Whatever setting was in there before is maintained. Set Sub Polarity and Phase manually.

--Bob


----------



## scheong

^ Thanx Bob for the quick reply. I will set the polarity to "normal" for both and listen some more before adjusting phase through subwoofer distance.


Stanley


----------



## Wookii

Hi guys,


I have had my D2v for a while now, and ran the ARC set-up, and have been very impressed with the mid-range and higher frequency sounds my speakers produce, but a little disappointed with the bass control versus my older system which was a Pioneer LX83 twinned with an Antimode 8033, which produce very tight and well controlled bass with almost perfect and seamless integration with the mains - some thing the D2v falls slightly (only slightly mind) short of.


After having read through some of the posts in this thread, I suspect it may be something to do with the sub's phase, polarity or distance settings not being correct (something the LX83 would have correct automatically), but I have to admit I haven't got a very good grasp on what these settings are (in real production of the sound in my room), and how changing them affects the sound or most importantly how I go about deciding what they should be set to.


My sub is an MK MX350 MkII, which has a 'Phase' switch with selectable + or - options (but it does have two drivers set-up in a push/pull configuration for those that aren't familiar with this model). My room is fairly small at 18ft long x 11.5ft wide, and my sub is (due to room restrictions) around 6ft away from the listening position, but this is the position it sounds best in my doing the usual "move the sub to all possible locations and check which sounds best at the listening position" method.


Can anyone explain to me (in simpleton terms!) exactly how I go about determining the correct phase, polarity and distance (setting in the D2v, not physical distance) for the sub?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977* /forum/post/21821297
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> I have had my D2v for a while now, and ran the ARC set-up, and have been very impressed with the mid-range and higher frequency sounds my speakers produce, but a little disappointed with the bass control versus my older system which was a Pioneer LX83 twinned with an Antimode 8033, which produce very tight and well controlled bass with almost perfect and seamless integration with the mains - some thing the D2v falls slightly (only slightly mind) short of.
> 
> 
> After having read through some of the posts in this thread, I suspect it may be something to do with the sub's phase, polarity or distance settings not being correct (something the LX83 would have correct automatically), but I have to admit I haven't got a very good grasp on what these settings are (in real production of the sound in my room), and how changing them affects the sound or most importantly how I go about deciding what they should be set to.
> 
> 
> My sub is an MK MX350 MkII, which has a 'Phase' switch with selectable + or - options (but it does have two drivers set-up in a push/pull configuration for those that aren't familiar with this model). My room is fairly small at 18ft long x 11.5ft wide, and my sub is (due to room restrictions) around 6ft away from the listening position, but this is the position it sounds best in my doing the usual "move the sub to all possible locations and check which sounds best at the listening position" method.
> 
> 
> Can anyone explain to me (in simpleton terms!) exactly how I go about determining the correct phase, polarity and distance (setting in the D2v, not physical distance) for the sub?



Hopefully, this link can help you out some. This link is courtesy of dmusmoke.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630


----------



## programmergeek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bob pariseau* /forum/post/21761252
> 
> 
> the d2v will not pass 3d signals (except for the special format that embeds 3d in a regular 1080p signal at half resolution).
> 
> 
> What you need to do right now is bypass the d2v to get 3d to your new display. A player with two hdmi outputs such as the oppo 93 or 95 would make that easy.
> 
> 
> "real soon now" an upgrade will be offered for the d2v that replaces half the hdmi inputs and one of the hdmi outputs with new hardware and enables "pass through" of 3d signals on the new hardware. Pricing is not set.
> 
> 
> You need "1080p high speed" hdmi cables (both in and out). You may already have those. Nothing beyond that is needed for 3d. You don't need the cable version that also includes ethernet.
> 
> --bob



what do you mean one input? I have been waiting 2 years for this board and it will only pass 1 hdmi input i have several 3d sources.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *programmergeek* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> what do you mean one input? I have been waiting 2 years for this board and it will only pass 1 hdmi input i have several 3d sources.



Read it again. "output" not "input"


4 3D capable inputs / 4 more non-3D inputs


1 3D capable output (pass through) / 1 more non-3D output.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977* /forum/post/21821297
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> I have had my D2v for a while now, and ran the ARC set-up, and have been very impressed with the mid-range and higher frequency sounds my speakers produce, but a little disappointed with the bass control versus my older system which was a Pioneer LX83 twinned with an Antimode 8033, which produce very tight and well controlled bass with almost perfect and seamless integration with the mains - some thing the D2v falls slightly (only slightly mind) short of.
> 
> 
> After having read through some of the posts in this thread, I suspect it may be something to do with the sub's phase, polarity or distance settings not being correct (something the LX83 would have correct automatically), but I have to admit I haven't got a very good grasp on what these settings are (in real production of the sound in my room), and how changing them affects the sound or most importantly how I go about deciding what they should be set to.
> 
> 
> My sub is an MK MX350 MkII, which has a 'Phase' switch with selectable + or - options (but it does have two drivers set-up in a push/pull configuration for those that aren't familiar with this model). My room is fairly small at 18ft long x 11.5ft wide, and my sub is (due to room restrictions) around 6ft away from the listening position, but this is the position it sounds best in my doing the usual "move the sub to all possible locations and check which sounds best at the listening position" method.
> 
> 
> Can anyone explain to me (in simpleton terms!) exactly how I go about determining the correct phase, polarity and distance (setting in the D2v, not physical distance) for the sub?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21821350
> 
> 
> Hopefully, this link can help you out some. This link is courtesy of dmusoke.
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630



Thanks ninja







...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21740757
> 
> 
> Well couldn't wait as that +4.5 sub trim was annoying me. I redid ARC after turning each sub up one notch and ARC set it to 0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Other channels are:
> 
> 
> LF:0, RF:0.5, C:0.5, SL:0.5, SR:0.5.
> 
> 
> Pretty happy with the sub trim now. Got too late to test the system so will have a listen tomorrow night.



Simon:


This is excellent .... How did you get them so tight? Do your speakers have individual level trims?



- David


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> This is excellent .... How did you get them so tight? Do your speakers have individual level trims?



No my speakers don't have individual trims. The speakers are these:


Mains:

http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/triple-8ht/ 


Rears:

http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/slanted-8/ 


What I noticed when I re-did the SPL on the FL (Test tone to set Main Volume) was before I had it at -11.5 but now the value is -8.5 (Possibly due to slight speaker positioning change). So after making that adjustment I performed ARC and got the above result. I have since performed another ARC as I moved one of my subs another foot and now have these results:


L:0

c:-.05

R:-1

SL:0

SR:+1

Sub:-1


No huge differences but very pleased with the overall result. I've installed 2.13g and system sounds excellent. So just testing this firmware at the moment as 2.13b was problematic for me. So far so good with 2.13g.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21823398
> 
> 
> No my speakers don't have individual trims. The speakers are these:
> 
> 
> Mains:
> 
> http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/triple-8ht/
> 
> 
> Rears:
> 
> http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/slanted-8/
> 
> 
> What I noticed when I re-did the SPL on the FL (Test tone to set Main Volume) was before I had it at -11.5 but now the value is -8.5 (Possibly due to slight speaker positioning change). So after making that adjustment I performed ARC and got the above result. I have since performed another ARC as I moved one of my subs another foot and now have these results:
> 
> 
> L:0
> 
> c:-.05
> 
> R:-1
> 
> SL:0
> 
> SR:+1
> 
> Sub:-1
> 
> 
> No huge differences but very pleased with the overall result. I've installed 2.13g and system sounds excellent. So just testing this firmware at the moment as 2.13b was problematic for me. So far so good with 2.13g.



I'd say that this is pleasantly rare indeed. Most of us have trims in the +/- 3dB or less. Is your room treated or not? Either way, as i said, this is excellent


----------



## SimonNo10

Yes my room is treated. I have 4 acoustic panels on both sides of the room, plus 3 ceiling diffusor panels as well. All purchased from a reputable company that specializes in sound acoustics (HAA certified). Website here:

http://www.acousticvision.com.au/ 


Have spoken to them about bass traps and have forwarded my ARC results to assist in them selecting the appropriate ones. They make them to order and make sure their tuned to the room based on the ARC results. Their excellent to deal with.


The panels I have placed on the walls are these:

http://www.acousticvision.com.au/Wha...0/Default.aspx 


And the ceiling ones I couldn't find on their site but there similar to the wall ones but have small holes under the fabric and 3 layers of diffusion. These made the biggest difference in my room once implemented.


----------



## nrwatson

Help I am sorry for the simple question

But having problems with my speakers

I have a 7.1 set up but the sound on 5.1 goes to my side speakers rather than the rear speakers

Thanks Neale


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson* /forum/post/21824115
> 
> 
> Help I am sorry for the simple question
> 
> But having problems with my speakers
> 
> I have a 7.1 set up but the sound on 5.1 goes to my side speakers rather than the rear speakers
> 
> Thanks Neale



What Anthem model do you have ?

What are your set up settings in the speaker configuration ?

Have you tried more than a single 5.1 playback source ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Help I am sorry for the simple question
> 
> But having problems with my speakers
> 
> I have a 7.1 set up but the sound on 5.1 goes to my side speakers rather than the rear speakers
> 
> Thanks Neale



That's correct. The Surround channels in 5.1 content are SIDE surrounds, not Rears.


You can use an Audio Surround Mode, like PLIIx-Movie to process the 5.1 content into 7.1 speaker output.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *simonno10* /forum/post/21823398
> 
> 
> no my speakers don't have individual trims. The speakers are these:
> 
> 
> Mains:
> 
> http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/triple-8ht/
> 
> 
> rears:
> 
> http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/slanted-8/
> 
> 
> what i noticed when i re-did the spl on the fl (test tone to set main volume) was before i had it at -11.5 but now the value is -8.5 (possibly due to slight speaker positioning change). So after making that adjustment i performed arc and got the above result. I have since performed another arc as i moved one of my subs another foot and now have these results:
> 
> 
> L:0
> 
> c:-.05
> 
> r:-1
> 
> sl:0
> 
> sr:+1
> 
> sub:-1
> 
> 
> no huge differences but very pleased with the overall result. I've installed 2.13g and system sounds excellent. So just testing this firmware at the moment as 2.13b was problematic for me. So far so good with 2.13g.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21823933
> 
> 
> i'd say that this is pleasantly rare indeed. Most of us have trims in the +/- 3db or less. Is your room treated or not? Either way, as i said, this is excellent



+1.


----------



## scheong

Hi,


As I posted a few days ago, I had just gotten a new subwoofer (a Submersive HP replacing a 12-year old NHT SubTwo). Ran ARC and everything look good. I even went through dmusoke's phase adjustment steps. Base on my ears, everything sounds really good.


However, like a true geek, I went through couple of calibration disks last night to check sound levels just because. That's when I noticed the subwoofer sound levels relative to other channels were different between the SACD disk (Stay in Tune with PentaTone tracks 43-48) and the Bluray disk (AIX Audio Calibration Disc). Using the Bluray disk, the subwoofer is 1/2 db louder than the other channels. Using the SACD disk, the subwoofer is almost 6 db louder!


Part of this could be because I am connecting the AVM 50V and Submersive via balanced interconnect (not the RCA interconnect). Anyhow, just want to get some opinions here to see if I need to adjust my setup.


Thanx.


Stanley


----------



## nrwatson

thanks bob


----------



## dmusoke

Bob:


I use the D2v in conjunction with my BDP-95. Does the D2v scaler (Gennum?) & Video DACs alter/degrade Oppo's excellent color accuracy? Would it pass the same HDMI tests SoHT did on the Oppo?


- David


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scheong* /forum/post/21825789
> 
> 
> I went through couple of calibration disks last night to check sound levels just because. That's when I noticed the subwoofer sound levels relative to other channels were different between the SACD disk (Stay in Tune with PentaTone tracks 43-48) and the Bluray disk (AIX Audio Calibration Disc). Using the Bluray disk, the subwoofer is 1/2 db louder than the other channels. Using the SACD disk, the subwoofer is almost 6 db louder!
> 
> 
> Part of this could be because I am connecting the AVM 50V and Submersive via balanced interconnect (not the RCA interconnect). Anyhow, just want to get some opinions here to see if I need to adjust my setup.



First, ignore the AIX disc. Then ignore the Penta disc.


How does the bass sound? If too strong, reduce it. If too weak, increase it.


I'm serious.


The AIX disc is useless for this test because it is unfiltered wideband pink. The SPL will vary with the bandwidth of the sub. Totally meaningless as a woofer calibration without a spectrum analyzer. With a spectrum analyzer, it should read 10 dB [higher] than the same BW of a main channel.


I have the Penta disc but don't remember how the signals were prepared.


If you are using a C-wtd SPL meter, I recommend using any DVD that has THX Optimizer tones. The sub signal is steeply filtered to cover 40-80 Hz, [and it is level compensated -10 dB to the same SPL as the main channels]. It usually reads very close to the same SPL as the main channels. But even if it does not, no matter. Just write it down for future ref as a spot check. Don't use an SPL meter to fine tune the sub. Use your ears.


----------



## Wookii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21821350
> 
> 
> Hopefully, this link can help you out some. This link is courtesy of dmusmoke.
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630



Thanks ninja12, and thanks dmusmoke for the original post.


How can I go about creating a noise source at the cross over point? Is there a download somewhere that can be burnt to a DVD? I have the Digital Essentials Blu-ray, I'll have to check if this has frequency specific noise signals?


Also, which crossover point do you select if ARC has set up your speakers with different point - presumably the cross over it has selected for the FL? Will this still be correct if the crossover ARC has given for your centre is, say 10dB higher?


It is amazing that ARC, with all is wizardry, can't set this for you (and speakers distances for that matter).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My advice regarding bass level adjustment would be a bit different from Roger's above:


Trust ARC.


If you want to double check ARC, go ahead and use an SPL meter with the test tones of your choice, but expect some differences. In addition to the stuff Roger mentioned, Room Gain will also, typically, result in the sub's SPL level being a few dB higher than the mains.


My recommendation would be that you *DO NOT* trust your ears in setting bass levels. Unless you are very familiar with what a properly set up audio system sounds like you will almost certainly make the mistake of raising sub volume too high. With most content, the sub should NOT be prominent. Its impact should be more subtle than that. But most folks starting out with this stuff will keep raising the sub volume because heck, if you can't hear it, why'd you buy it in the first place? Then they get all excited when a truly dynamic bass track knocks the pictures off the walls. Dramatic, to be sure, but wrong.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21827301
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I use the D2v in conjunction with my BDP-95. Does the D2v scaler (Gennum?) & Video DACs alter/degrade Oppo's excellent color accuracy? Would it pass the same HDMI tests SoHT did on the Oppo?
> 
> 
> - David



I've not seen HDMI digital data captures from the D2v the way I have with the Oppo, but I see no indications in my testing that the D2v is doing anything odd with colors presuming you leave the input Picture level settings (Source Adjust > Picture for each Source) at the defaults.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scheong* /forum/post/21825789
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> As I posted a few days ago, I had just gotten a new subwoofer (a Submersive HP replacing a 12-year old NHT SubTwo). Ran ARC and everything look good. I even went through dmusoke's phase adjustment steps. Base on my ears, everything sounds really good.
> 
> 
> However, like a true geek, I went through couple of calibration disks last night to check sound levels just because. That's when I noticed the subwoofer sound levels relative to other channels were different between the SACD disk (Stay in Tune with PentaTone tracks 43-48) and the Bluray disk (AIX Audio Calibration Disc). Using the Bluray disk, the subwoofer is 1/2 db louder than the other channels. Using the SACD disk, the subwoofer is almost 6 db louder!
> 
> 
> Part of this could be because I am connecting the AVM 50V and Submersive via balanced interconnect (not the RCA interconnect). Anyhow, just want to get some opinions here to see if I need to adjust my setup.
> 
> 
> Thanx.
> 
> 
> Stanley



Use the LPCM tracks from AIX when measuring this stuff. The Bitstream tracks have a few oddities encoded into them. Use the LPCM track that matches your speaker configuration (5.1 or 7.1).


What player are you using for SACD? The specs for SACD are screwed up -- have been from the beginning. In SACD, the recorded LFE channel is *NOT* attenuated -10dB compared to the other channels as it is with every other format. This is pretty nutzo as the whole idea of HAVING a separate channel for LFE is so that you can put LOUD bass in there -- which means you have to carry it attenuated to keep from clipping pre-amp electronics. If you are not going to do that you might as well just put all the bass in the main speaker channels anyway.


And indeed many studios producing SACD content do just that. Their 5.1 layer content has nothing in the .1 channel. All the bass is in the main channels. The music samples on that PentaTone disc are recorded just that way. ONLY the test tones on that disc put out content on the .1 channel.


Now, what all this means is that if you are playing SACD into the same setup you are using for other content, then the .1 channel of the SACD content has to be attenuated -10dB so that you can CONTINUE to apply the +10dB boost that's already used for all your other LFE Source content.


If your SACD player is not doing that, then the subwoofer test track from that Pentatone disc will be too hot. By 10dB. The difference between that and the 6dB you measured could be any number of factors, but the most likely one is that the hotter sub measurement was up at the end of the range you picked on the SPL meter. SPL meters are less accurate towards either extreme end of each of their range choices.


It's also possible that your SACD player simply has a bug on the output you are using. +5dB errors for LFE output are pretty common, although it is unusual for it to only show up when playing SACD content. Check both multi-channel Analog and HDMI output from the player (if possible) for consistency.


(And yes, you should be using the level calibration tracks -- i.e., tracks 43-48 -- on that Pentatone SACD disc to check this. Do *NOT* use the very similar sounding Channel ID tracks found earlier on that disc as the Subwoofer track in those is deliberately boosted -- by about 10dB -- to make it easier to hear the sub when doing a quick check for speaker presence.)


NOTE: If your SACD player setup is incorrectly putting out LFE +10dB too hot, you MAY VERY WELL NOT HEAR THAT when playing your real SACD content. Why? Because as I said above, the music studios -- all pretty much exasperated by this screwed up spec -- typically produce their SACD discs with NO CONTENT in the LFE channel. They put all their bass in the main speaker channels -- and it gets to your sub from those via crossover processing. Of course you still want to get the LFE level right for SACD playback in case you run into a disc that does include LFE content.


ETA: I suppose for completeness I should also mention that in the early days of SACD there was such outright confusion about this silly spec that some studios put out SACD discs that *DID* (incorrectly, as far as the spec is concerned) record LFE attenuated -10dB. As a consumer, the only thing you can do is check for reviews on specific titles to see which discs have been spotted doing it this way.

--Bob


----------



## Steve Dodds

Since we are kind of talking about SUB/LFE levels I have a question about Anthem Bass Management.


I have seen many charts like those posted here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post21664998 


The 'cutoffs' are set to 70Hz HP for the fronts and 120Hz LP for the sub.


Judging by the charts, there is a considerable amount of overlap. I know ARC doesn't necessarily set the cutoff as crossover, but I was curious how this pans out in real life since similar settings create more bass than I was expecting.


So I set a target of 60Hz Movie, 40Hz Music and 120Hz Sub (Stereo Mode), then switched my mains off.


What appears to happen is that the sub plays up to 120Hz (if you select that) no matter where the target for the mains is set. Adjusting the Speaker Configuration crossovers makes no difference.


If you turn ARC off, the crossover applies itself as one would expect, ie a 40Hz xover cuts off everything above 40Hz even when the SUB target is set to 120Hz.


So having your Sub crossover target set higher than your Mains target appears to double your bass up to that higher point.


This can be good, but can also make things warmer than they should be.


On the MRX thread, setting the SUB/LFE to 120Hz seems to be what is advised (and I didn't do the same test when I had my MRX-500), but I'm wondering why you would do this with the prepros?


The actual LFE channel is also affected unless you select the LFE Bypass.


So I am also wondering if the LFE channel is corrected by ARC independently of where you set the Main crossover. In other words if I set the Mains to crossover at say 40Hz, and the Sub at the same point so they don't double up, will the LFE channel still be corrected up to the full 120Hz?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes. ARC handles LFE specially. A more sophisticated version of LFE bypass


As to the Crossovers: I'd trust what ARC is doing to blend things through the Room Correction processing.

--Bob


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21828397
> 
> 
> Yes. ARC handles LFE specially. A more sophisticated version of LFE bypass
> 
> 
> As to the Crossovers: I'd trust what ARC is doing to blend things through the Room Correction processing.
> 
> --Bob



I think you have to trust it. As mentioned above, adjusting the crossovers after running ARC appears to have no effect unless you turn ARC off.


I was more curious about those who specifically choose 120Hz as their SUB target thinking (I assume) that this means they will not lose any LFE as happens with other processors.


And whether ARC corrects the LFE channel separately from any Sub setting you may make.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes. To take a more reasonable case, it is not uncommon for a Sub "Cutoff" of 120 to result in a Sub "Crossover" of 70 or 80 getting Uploaded. Nevertheless, LFE appears to get out to the sub all the way up to the upper limit of LFE (which is about 120) -- much as if LFE Bypass were in effect in the pre-ARC days.


There are a combination of factors as to whether ARC uses the Crossover roll-off or OTHER tools it has at its disposal to manage the energy that gets out to each speaker. And the fact that content is coming in on LFE is one of them.

--Bob


----------



## Bardia

If I use my 5.1 analog out of my Oppo 95, can I still use the ARC on the D2 or is the ARC available only when using HDMI?


Thank you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bardia* /forum/post/21829682
> 
> 
> If I use my 5.1 analog out of my Oppo 95, can I still use the ARC on the D2 or is the ARC available only when using HDMI?
> 
> 
> Thank you.



ARC *WILL* work for the multi-channel analog input. You must set the 6-CH input to ANALOG-DSP so that the D2 can re-digitize that analog input (ARC processing works in the digital domain). After ARC does its thing, the DACs in the D2 will then convert that result back to Analog to go to your amps.


Also check that the ADC sampling rate for re-digitizing the 6-CH Analog input is still set to the default 96KHz. If you are going to do the same thing with stereo analog input jacks, you should set that the 2-CH Analog-DSP rate to 96KHz as well. See Section 3.9 of the Manual.


In the Oppo, set the Analog speaker configuration so that the Subwoofer is ON, all speakers are Large (except for the Rears which are OFF). Set the Down-mix to 5.1. Set all speakers equidistant -- any distance will do so long as they are all the same. Set all speakers to 0dB volume trim except set the Oppo's Subwoofer output to +5dB volume trim. These settings provide the optimum input into the D2. If you don't need the separate, dedicated Analog stereo outputs on the Oppo 95, then remember that you can reconfigure that output to be used INSTEAD OF the normal LF/RF jacks in the multi-channel Analog output set -- which will give you the advantage of the better DAC configuration on the dedicated pair for your LF/RF channels.


The D2 w/ARC active will adjust that input to your ACTUAL speaker configuration.


Check the Analog Input Level in the D2 for the 6-CH input. You may find it necessary to lower that setting by -1.5dB to prevent clipping the input in the loudest passages. See Section 3.8 in the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## Bardia




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21829816
> 
> 
> ARC *WILL* work for the multi-channel analog input. You must set the 6-CH input to ANALOG-DSP so that the D2 can re-digitize that analog input (ARC processing works in the digital domain). After ARC does its thing, the DACs in the D2 will then convert that result back to Analog to go to your amps.
> 
> 
> Also check that the ADC sampling rate for re-digitizing the 6-CH Analog input is still set to the default 96KHz. If you are going to do the same thing with stereo analog input jacks, you should set that the 2-CH Analog-DSP rate to 96KHz as well. See Section 3.9 of the Manual.
> 
> 
> In the Oppo, set the Analog speaker configuration so that the Subwoofer is ON, all speakers are Large (except for the Rears which are OFF). Set the Down-mix to 5.1. Set all speakers equidistant -- any distance will do so long as they are all the same. Set all speakers to 0dB volume trim except set the Oppo's Subwoofer output to +5dB volume trim. These settings provide the optimum input into the D2. If you don't need the separate, dedicated Analog stereo outputs on the Oppo 95, then remember that you can reconfigure that output to be used INSTEAD OF the normal LF/RF jacks in the multi-channel Analog output set -- which will give you the advantage of the better DAC configuration on the dedicated pair for your LF/RF channels.
> 
> 
> The D2 w/ARC active will adjust that input to your ACTUAL speaker configuration.
> 
> 
> Check the Analog Input Level in the D2 for the 6-CH input. You may find it necessary to lower that setting by -1.5dB to prevent clipping the input in the loudest passages. See Section 3.8 in the Manual.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thank you so much. I am still debating which pre/pro to go with. Let me ask your opinion. I have a Proceed Amp 5 and 4 Totem Rainmakers and 1 Raimaker Center. BD player is Oppo 95. I am also getting a turntable.


My choices for Pre/Pro are Integra DHC 80.3 or Anthem D2 or D2V.


Reason I am leaning more towards D2 is for one, I like to use the analog outs of the 95 as the DAC on that machine seems to be amazing.


Also, I don't like to see volume or other info on my TV when I use the remote. I also don't know if I benefit from a better picture on my Elite Kuro when I watch BD or DVDs, hence plugging the HDMI directly from Oppo to the TV. I also want exceptional 2 channel which the D2 seems to have.


I know with Integra, only HDMI will give you the XT32 feature so that is why I am leaning more towards the D2 as I don't need D2V's DTS-MA and Dolby True HD processor.


Please chime in.


----------



## Bardia




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21790212
> 
> 
> It's password protected because it has a specific purpose. Things can go wrong when development software is used without knowing what it is. If you're not sure, just ask tech support before using it.



Nick, is the SQ on the D2 and D2v pretty much the same? Besides the D2v being able to decode HD audio, what are the major differences? Thx


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The audio from the D2v is actually better than the audio from the D2. I found the difference surprisingly easy to hear when I made the transition. It's hard to pinpoint where the improvement is coming from. It's a combination of factors in the Analog AND Digital design of the D2v.


In my opinion, the D2v is a better match for the Oppo 95.


Now, when you use ARC, the DACs your speakers are hearing are actually the DACs in the Anthem. That doesn't mean that better input (as from the 95) will be completely masked, but it does mean that the speakers are not hearing the raw output of the 95.


Time and again, folks here who've tried it have found that the advantages of ARC outweigh this. But what you might want to do is compare HDMI audio input vs. 5.1 and stereo Analog audio input from the 95 -- with all of those processed through ARC. If you DON'T hear an improvement for Analog over HDMI then you can save yourself some money and get the Oppo 93 -- to pair with the D2v. If you are a music listener, one particular thing to try in the Analog configuration is DSD-Direct-to-Analog conversion in the 95 for SACD disc playback. Normally using DSD is a pain in the neck because it disables all audio processing in the 95. But when you feed that result into ARC in the D2v the D2v is doing all the necessary processing (crossover, speaker distance adjustment, etc.). So it's a natural fit. And since the D2v doesn't accept HDMI DSD input, this Analog approach is the only way to try it.


ETA: I should point out that one down-side of both the D2 and the D2v is that they only allow 5.1 Analog input -- not 7.1. You can process that 5.1 input up to 7.1 speaker output (e.g., PLIIx), but you can't get discrete Rear channel input on Analog. HDMI input on the D2v can accept 7.1 at up to 192KHz. HDMI input on the D2 is limited to 5.1 at up to 96KHz.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds* /forum/post/21828366
> 
> 
> So I set a target of 60Hz Movie, 40Hz Music and 120Hz Sub (Stereo Mode), then switched my mains off.
> 
> 
> What appears to happen is that the sub plays up to 120Hz (if you select that) no matter where the target for the mains is set. Adjusting the Speaker Configuration crossovers makes no difference.



Couple of things seem odd to me.


1) That Target Customization screen lists a Subwoofer filter. In other processors it is rightly called the LFE filter, if we are talking about the same thing -- filtering the LFE signal. This is very useful since some odd content is not well frequency constrained, and for music it sounds a lot better to limit LFE to 80 Hz than 120 Hz, so nice of Anthem to offer separate presets for each.


Can someone confirm this is really an LFE filter? If not, the rest of this post will make no sense.


2) The only bass that you should hear redirected to the sub from the main channels is what is defined by the crossover frequency (not the LFE low-pass just mentioned). It should not matter whether ARC is on or off.



> Quote:
> If you turn ARC off, the crossover applies itself as one would expect, ie a 40Hz xover cuts off everything above 40Hz even when the SUB target is set to 120Hz.



That's how it should always be.



> Quote:
> So having your Sub crossover target set higher than your Mains target appears to double your bass up to that higher point.
> 
> 
> This can be good, but can also make things warmer than they should be.



If this is desirable (which I doubt), then it should be optional, not automatic.



> Quote:
> So I am also wondering if the LFE channel is corrected by ARC independently of where you set the Main crossover.



ARC does not correct channels, it corrects speaker signals. Everything that coagulates to feed the sub will pass thru the ARC corrections for the Sub, all the way to wherever the sub rolls off or where ARC gives up, whichever comes first.



> Quote:
> In other words if I set the Mains to crossover at say 40Hz, and the Sub at the same point so they don't double up, will the LFE channel still be corrected up to the full 120Hz?



It will be corrected, but you will have thrown away any LFE above 40 Hz.


----------



## Bardia




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21829973
> 
> 
> ^ The audio from the D2v is actually better than the audio from the D2. I found the difference surprisingly easy to hear when I made the transition. It's hard to pinpoint where the improvement is coming from. It's a combination of factors in the Analog AND Digital design of the D2v.
> 
> 
> In my opinion, the D2v is a better match for the Oppo 95.
> 
> 
> Now, when you use ARC, the DACs your speakers are hearing are actually the DACs in the Anthem. That doesn't mean that better input (as from the 95) will be completely masked, but it does mean that the speakers are not hearing the raw output of the 95.
> 
> 
> Time and again, folks here who've tried it have found that the advantages of ARC outweigh this. But what you might want to do is compare HDMI audio input vs. 5.1 and stereo Analog audio input from the 95 -- with all of those processed through ARC. If you DON'T hear an improvement for Analog over HDMI then you can save yourself some money and get the Oppo 93 -- to pair with the D2v. If you are a music listener, one particular thing to try in the Analog configuration is DSD-Direct-to-Analog conversion in the 95 for SACD disc playback. Normally using DSD is a pain in the neck because it disables all audio processing in the 95. But when you feed that result into ARC in the D2v the D2v is doing all the necessary processing (crossover, speaker distance adjustment, etc.). So it's a natural fit. And since the D2v doesn't accept HDMI DSD input, this Analog approach is the only way to try it.
> 
> 
> ETA: I should point out that one down-side of both the D2 and the D2v is that they only allow 5.1 Analog input -- not 7.1. You can process that 5.1 input up to 7.1 speaker output (e.g., PLIIx), but you can't get discrete Rear channel input on Analog. HDMI input on the D2v can accept 7.1 at up to 192KHz. HDMI input on the D2 is limited to 5.1 at up to 96KHz.
> 
> --Bob



I like the fact that the Oppo 95 has a stereo balanced out and also 2 HDMIs.

But if you are saying that the analog out of the oppo might be the same SQ as the HDMI route to D2v, now it makes the decision a little tougher. I noticed you did not mention the Integra!

Also, it sounds to me that as good as the analog out of 95 is, the over all SQ you get from using the ARC, outweighs the benefit of those 5.1 outputs, correct?

And as for D2v sounding better? is the difference worth $2500-$3000 more in price??


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Only you can evaluate the value proposition. There is, of course, no upper $$$$ limit in the hunt for audio perfection. See the over $20K forum here for examples -- marvel at big spenders in their natural habitat.







The question is whether YOU can hear an improvement that you can afford.


For example, I don't recommend spending $5K on a power cable.


I don't know enough about the Integra to make useful comments about it.


There are a number of folks here who decided that they prefer to use Analog input -- even with ARC processing. It's really something you'd have to try yourself. What I said above is that if YOU don't hear an advantage with Analog then you can save money and go HDMI with the Oppo 93.

--Bob


----------



## Bardia




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21830155
> 
> 
> ^ Only you can evaluate the value proposition. There is, of course, no upper $$$$ limit in the hunt for audio perfection. See the over $20K forum here for examples -- marvel at big spenders in their natural habitat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The question is whether YOU can hear an improvement that you can afford.
> 
> 
> For example, I don't recommend spending $5K on a power cable.
> 
> 
> I don't know enough about the Integra to make useful comments about it.
> 
> 
> There are a number of folks here who decided that they prefer to use Analog input -- even with ARC processing. It's really something you'd have to try yourself. What I said above is that if YOU don't hear an advantage with Analog then you can save money and go HDMI with the Oppo 93.
> 
> --Bob



I think for $500 more, I will get the 95, just for 2 channel sake of having the balance output and have 3d for future.


But I must really decide on the pre/pro. Thanks for your input. I just need to find a stereo shop that has these installed so I can hear them. I bet that will be a challenge.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21830040
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> It will be corrected, but you will have thrown away any LFE above 40 Hz.



As I stated above LFE is handled specially, much as happens with the LFE Bypass setting when not using ARC.


ARC corrects the content destined for the Sub up to the Sub Cutoff frequency region (e.g., 120Hz when set that way).


The confusion, I think, is assuming the Sub Crossover gets applied to all signals destined for the Sub. Evidently that is not true for content that comes from the LFE input.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite

Anyone see anything wrong with placing my center channel, Paradigm C5, on top of my Sub 2 or just above? I am changing from my 142" scope screen to a 174" AT scope screen and would like to put the sub at the front behind the screen. Just wondering if the bass would interact with the center in a negative way?


John


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21830293
> 
> 
> ARC corrects the content destined for the Sub up to the Sub Cutoff frequency region (e.g., 120Hz when set that way).



Yes, it should correct all signals that the sub speaker can reproduce.



> Quote:
> The confusion, I think, is assuming the Sub Crossover gets applied to all signals destined for the Sub. Evidently that is not true for content that comes from the LFE input.



Yes, the crossover frequency has nothing to do with LFE, so the choice of crossover frequency should never apply to the LFE channel.


But can you verify how redirected bass is handled while ARC is on? Is it LPF'd at the crossover frequency, or at the mislabeled "Sub" frequency?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977* /forum/post/21827890
> 
> 
> Thanks ninja12, and thanks dmusmoke for the original post.
> 
> 
> How can I go about creating a noise source at the cross over point? Is there a download somewhere that can be burnt to a DVD? I have the Digital Essentials Blu-ray, I'll have to check if this has frequency specific noise signals?
> 
> I found a free test tone generator on the web, remarkably called Test Tone Generator (TTG). Google will be ur friend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, which crossover point do you select if ARC has set up your speakers with different point - presumably the cross over it has selected for the FL? Will this still be correct if the crossover ARC has given for your centre is, say 10dB higher?
> 
> I use a frequency 10Hz or so around the xover ARC chooses. So if it choosed 80Hz, i'd start the procedure from 70Hz and go all the way to 90Hz.
> 
> 
> It is amazing that ARC, with all is wizardry, can't set this for you (and speakers distances for that matter).



See my answers above ...


----------



## scheong

Thanx Roger and Bob for responding to my post.


As part of the ARC procedure, I did set both the front left and subwoofer sound level to 75db using a SPL meter before starting the ARC measurement. After uploading the new ARC result, I spent the next couple of days just listening and enjoying the new setup playing various CDs, Bluray movies, and SACDs. I was (and am) really happy with everything.


That's why I was more than a bit surprised by the measured subwoofer sound level difference between the two calibration disks. Both disks were played by an Oppo 95 connected to the 50v via HDMI. I will re-do the measurements with the two calibration disks again later this week just to cross check myself.


Stanley


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If you get the same problem when you repeat the SACD test (compared to the AIX result), give OPPO a call with the details. You may have found a +5dB bug in your 95.


That would reduce the unexpected SACD result to only +1dB, which is well within the measurement error for bass SPL measurement.


You can check this by using PCM (not DSD) for the SACD Output setting and changing the 95's Analog subwoofer output trim -5dB lower than you are using now for AIX while running the SACD disc test.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21832002
> 
> 
> Yes, it should correct all signals that the sub speaker can reproduce.
> 
> 
> Yes, the crossover frequency has nothing to do with LFE, so the choice of crossover frequency should never apply to the LFE channel.
> 
> 
> But can you verify how redirected bass is handled while ARC is on? Is it LPF'd at the crossover frequency, or at the mislabeled "Sub" frequency?



I'm not sure. There have been conflicting reports here, and I suspect what's going on may depend on the particular solution ARC builds for an individual system. Keep in mind this stuff is being done in software, so the fact that there's a numeric value for a Crossover does not necessarily mean there must be the equivalent of a hardware filter operating the way a hardware filter would normally operate. Which might be another reason folks are getting unexpected results if they fiddle with the Uploaded Crossover values instead of having ARC do it by making changes in the ARC Targets window.


I tend to put more faith in tests that DON'T presume to know how the settings in Setup actually function when ARC is ON. E.g., the AIX Crossover Sweep test -- is the resulting volume really constant over the frequency range or not when ARC is doing its thing?

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/21831568
> 
> 
> Anyone see anything wrong with placing my center channel, Paradigm C5, on top of my Sub 2 or just above? I am changing from my 142" scope screen to a 174" AT scope screen and would like to put the sub at the front behind the screen. Just wondering if the bass would interact with the center in a negative way?
> 
> 
> John



Many large 'full range' speakers use midrange and tweeters (which is basically your C5) stacked on top of a large woofer or two. The full range speaker makers usually try to isolate the speakers from each other in the cabinet enclosure, and you should try to isolate your center from your sub to reduce any possible negative interaction.

Vibrapods, Auralex, etc offer reasonably priced vibration/isolation products.

You can also get sorbothane vibration pads made for putting under appliances like washers and dryers at Home Depot.


There are some important placement issues that you need to address with the sub and center, though.


I would suggest that you first use ARC Quick Measure to make sure that the proposed new sub position behind your screen is a good placement for the sub. *Optimal sub placement is vital.*


If that position is good, then it is important to make sure that the center is pointed at the main listening area. The tweeters and midrange are much more directional than the bass and lfe, and you will want to match the sound from the center, especially dialog, to the action on the screen. Placing your speaker behind the screen will do alot to accomplish this. I wish I had the same optiion with my plasma.

I own the C3 and it has adjustable feet so that you can point the front up or down as needed. I assume the C5 also has these adjustable feet. If that amount of adjustment is not enough then you will need to rig something up to make sure the center's tweeters are aimed at the primary listening area. The Auralex speaker pads offer a tilting option that may come in handy.


Good luck,

Tom


----------



## TJG55

Stud,

An even cheaper solution for isolation is EZ Tack or similar stuff. Find it at Target (under 3M products) or Michael's. Works very well in many apps.

TJG


----------



## studlygoorite

Thanks people, I was just throwing this out there as when I do get the screen and if, only if, the best location for the sub turns out to be center front then I was curious. If I get another Sub 2, center front and center back may be my only options as center sides are not. With the C5 on top of the Sub 2 the tweeters are almost ear level and any vibration should not be an issue as you can pump 110dbs out of this sub with a full wine glass on it with barely a ripple.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

The tech support option after calling the main number is 6 (was 2).


Also, routing is the same whether calling Paradigm or Anthem - 905-564-1994 or 905-362-0958.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21832002
> 
> 
> But can you verify how redirected bass is handled while ARC is on? Is it LPF'd at the crossover frequency, or at the mislabeled "Sub" frequency?



When ARC is active, LFE Bypass Xover is in effect. This means that redirected bass is crossed over at the Sub Xover frequency displayed in the setup menu, while LFE runs unfiltered at its native 120 Hz bandwidth. Behind-the-scenes DSP is in effect to prevent combing the frequency response as a result of adding a signal to its delayed counterpart (all filters cause delay according to slope, frequency, and type). Some time ago a magazine which checks bass management under all user options stated that when it came to non-standard configurations ours was the only one that they observed getting it right, primarily because of avoiding comb filtering issues. I wish I could remember which magazine it was. Part of the equation is the use of minimum-phase filters all around. You could set individual crossover numbers identically between our prepro and others that allow it, and the result would be considerably different - this is something we knew all along.


The ARC Target panels indicate the correction cutoff or range, not crossover frequencies as is often thought, although the two almost always use the same figures, the exception being what happens to the LFE portion of the sub channel assuming no manual overrides are in effect.


When LFE Bypass is not engaged, i.e. when a more conventional crossover is in effect, "Sub Xover" which is seen in the setup menu (and not ARC Targets) performs exactly as labeled - set it too low and you lose too much LFE. This is indeed why we provided a Movie and Music configuration starting long before ARC. There was also a room resonance filter, center EQ, and other things to combat room effects but as far as I'm concerned that era became the dark age from the moment ARC appeared.


The MRX receivers do not use the same crossovers as AVM/D though as much as possible their different means reach similar ends.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/21836358
> 
> 
> Thanks people, I was just throwing this out there as when I do get the screen and if, only if, the best location for the sub turns out to be center front then I was curious. If I get another Sub 2, center front and center back may be my only options as center sides are not. With the C5 on top of the Sub 2 the tweeters are almost ear level and any vibration should not be an issue as you can pump 110dbs out of this sub with a full wine glass on it with barely a ripple.



Stud


First, I would be concerned with marring the finish on the top of the Sub2.


You would probably be better off with a center speaker stand for the C5 and then finding the best sounding place for the Sub2 between the L/F, Center

and R/F speakers if the sub has to be along the front wall.

I have heard that a vertical center speaker if it is going to be behind or just below the screen is optimum. I don't know the dispersion of the C5. You might want to investigate.


Stew


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scheong* /forum/post/21832801
> 
> 
> Thanx Roger and Bob for responding to my post.
> 
> 
> As part of the ARC procedure, I did set both the front left and subwoofer sound level to 75db using a SPL meter before starting the ARC measurement. After uploading the new ARC result, I spent the next couple of days just listening and enjoying the new setup playing various CDs, Bluray movies, and SACDs. I was (and am) really happy with everything.
> 
> 
> That's why I was more than a bit surprised by the measured subwoofer sound level difference between the two calibration disks. Both disks were played by an Oppo 95 connected to the 50v via HDMI. I will re-do the measurements with the two calibration disks again later this week just to cross check myself.
> 
> 
> Stanley



Stanley,

Please check that you have up to date firmware in your Oppo BDP-95. The folks at OPPO just re-confirmed for me that the Analog output SACD LFE level is correct in the two most recent firmware versions (from last December, and from just this month). I.e., it is attenuated -15dB compared to the other Analog channels just as is the case with Analog LFE output from other multi-channel audio formats.


However there WAS a bug in the firmware for the 95 from earlier last year which had the SACD LFE Analog output level on the 95 +5dB too hot.


Check in Setup > Device Setup > Firmware Information. The Main firmware version should end either 1219 (the one from last December) or 0302 (the one from this month).

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Does the BDP-83 have this 5dB fix?


If our SACD player has a +5 or +10dB LFE error and we setup an input for it on the AVM/D called "SACD" can it be configured to always apply -5 or -10dB to the LFE channel?


In other words can specific channel trims (LFE only, not sub) be applied on a source input basis or just globally?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21833462
> 
> 
> Many large 'full range' speakers use midrange and tweeters (which is basically your C5) stacked on top of a large woofer or two. The full range speaker makers usually try to isolate the speakers from each other in the cabinet enclosure, and you should try to isolate your center from your sub to reduce any possible negative interaction.



They also try to make sure there are no cabinet edges near the tweeter or midrange (these days). For example, look at the newer B&W Nautilus series compared to the old Matrix series. Not saying you need a spherical cabinet but do try to keep the faces of the cabinets that you are placing together flush with eachother. With the design of the Sub-2 (hexagonal) this will be difficult and look funny at best.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bardia* /forum/post/21830185
> 
> 
> I think for $500 more, I will get the 95, just for 2 channel sake of having the balance output and have 3d for future.
> 
> 
> But I must really decide on the pre/pro. Thanks for your input. I just need to find a stereo shop that has these installed so I can hear them. I bet that will be a challenge.



I'm going to give you a different viewpoint than the other guys...


Since you are keen on 2-channel I think the balanced BDP-95 is a good choice, but only with a great analog preamp. Assuming you only have one system, I would then suggest getting the D2 and using it in analog bypass for 2-ch mode. Then the "better digital parts" in the D2v would be irrelevant. Combining 2-ch stereo and HT is always a compromise, and this is the best compromise for reasonable money and complexity IMO.


If you are more keen on a 7.1 movie setup then the D2v or even 50v is better.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21839666
> 
> 
> Does the BDP-83 have this 5dB fix?
> 
> 
> If our SACD player has a +5 or +10dB LFE error and we setup an input for it on the AVM/D called "SACD" can it be configured to always apply -5 or -10dB to the LFE channel?
> 
> 
> In other words can specific channel trims (LFE only, not sub) be applied on a source input basis or just globally?



As best I can recall the Oppo 83 has never had a problem like that. So no worries.


You can't save volume trims per Source in the Anthem. You can apply "temporary" trims per audio input format using the buttons on the remote, which might accomplish the same thing.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21838730
> 
> 
> When ARC is active, LFE Bypass Xover is in effect. This means that redirected bass is crossed over at the Sub Xover frequency displayed in the setup menu, while LFE runs unfiltered at its native 120 Hz bandwidth.
> 
> 
> When LFE Bypass is not engaged, i.e. when a more conventional crossover is in effect, "Sub Xover" which is seen in the setup menu (and not ARC Targets) performs exactly as labeled - set it too low and you lose too much LFE.



Thanks for the clarification. In summary I guess it would be safest to keep LFE Bypass on at all times. With ARC on there is no worry, but with ARC off it keep the "Sub Xover" working more consistently. The other way we could lose LFE and I can't think of a reason why you would want that. It's not like the LFE is preserved by sending it to the main speakers right? (If there is a concern with sending higher frequencies to the sub that's why subs have their own filters.)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21838730
> 
> 
> The ARC Target panels indicate the correction cutoff or range, not crossover frequencies as is often thought, although the two almost always use the same figures, the exception being what happens to the LFE portion of the sub channel assuming no manual overrides are in effect.



Why does ARC have cutoff ranges at all? Is it not desirable to have the solution computed over the greatest range possible (within reason) or would that be too time consuming?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21839810
> 
> 
> Thanks for the clarification. In summary I guess it would be safest to keep LFE Bypass on at all times. With ARC on there is no worry, but with ARC off it keep the "Sub Xover" working more consistently. The other way we could lose LFE and I can't think of a reason why you would want that. It's not like the LFE is preserved by sending it to the main speakers right? (If there is a concern with sending higher frequencies to the sub that's why subs have their own filters.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why does ARC have cutoff ranges at all? Is it not desirable to have the solution computed over the greatest range possible (within reason) or would that be too time consuming?



Sure, leaving Bypass LFE ON is a good idea just in case you have ARC off for some reason. Also, if you have a sub that goes deep you should have THX Ultra 2 Sub set. And if the Sub is up against a wall you may or may not want to have Boundary Gain Compensation set. Then also turn Room EQ Filter OFF and Center EQ OFF unless you are sure you want those engaged when ARC is OFF.


Finally, keep in mind that actual output when ARC is On is a combination of the Volume Trims the Crossovers *AND* cuts and boosts implemented by the Room Correction parameters. When you turn ARC OFF, the Room Correction parameters stop being used, the settings above START being used but the volume trims and Crossovers ARC Uploaded remain in effect. Those Volume trims and Crossovers MIGHT NOT be the best choices in a solution you set up Manually. For example if the Room Correction was doing mostly cuts, then the Volume trims WITHOUT Room Correction might be a bit high.


The point is, it is not really easy to set up to use ARC with some Sources and NOT with other Sources (except of course for Analog Direct Sources where ARC, and all the other stuff, doesn't apply anyway).


------------------------------------------


Limiting the correction range allows ARC to concentrate its processing resources in the frequency range you want corrected. Which may result in a cleaner solution. Limiting the correction range in treble for the main speakers means that ARC may not make FAULTY correction based on BOGUS high frequency results from the mic.

--Bob


----------



## scheong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21839594
> 
> 
> Stanley,
> 
> Please check that you have up to date firmware in your Oppo BDP-95. The folks at OPPO just re-confirmed for me that the Analog output SACD LFE level is correct in the two most recent firmware versions (from last December, and from just this month). I.e., it is attenuated -15dB compared to the other Analog channels just as is the case with Analog LFE output from other multi-channel audio formats.
> 
> 
> However there WAS a bug in the firmware for the 95 from earlier last year which had the SACD LFE Analog output level on the 95 +5dB too hot.
> 
> 
> Check in Setup > Device Setup > Firmware Information. The Main firmware version should end either 1219 (the one from last December) or 0302 (the one from this month).
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


I am pretty sure I installed the latest official firmware for the BDP-95. I will check tonight. The bug you are referring to seem to only affect the multi-channel analog outputs, correct? In my case, I am connecting the BDP-95 to the AVM50v via HDMI. So this bug should not impact my subwoofer measurements with the SACD test disk.


For both Bluray and SACD, I have the BDP-95 decode to LPCM via HDMI to the AVM50v. Base on my understanding, I should not see any difference on the subwoofer measurement between either the Bluray AIX test disk and the SACD test disk. As I said, I will do the measurement again later this week to cross check myself.


Thanx for pursuing my measurement anomaly with Oppo. You and quite a few others make this thread a must read for me.


Stanley


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scheong* /forum/post/21840038
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I am pretty sure I installed the latest official firmware for the BDP-95. I will check tonight. The bug you are referring to seem to only affect the multi-channel analog outputs, correct? In my case, I am connecting the BDP-95 to the AVM50v via HDMI. So this bug should not impact my subwoofer measurements with the SACD test disk.
> 
> 
> For both Bluray and SACD, I have the BDP-95 decode to LPCM via HDMI to the AVM50v. Base on my understanding, I should not see any difference on the subwoofer measurement between either the Bluray AIX test disk and the SACD test disk. As I said, I will do the measurement again later this week to cross check myself.
> 
> 
> Thanx for pursuing my measurement anomaly with Oppo. You and quite a few others make this thread a must read for me.
> 
> 
> Stanley



Actually that old bug (fixed some time ago) also affected SACD LFE level on the HDMI output.


Remember that it is not the absolute SPL level that you are matching. There's no reason to believe the tones on the two discs are recorded at the same volume. What matters is the trims you need to make to balance sub vs. mains. The level adjustments you make to balance sub vs. mains on the AIX disc should ALSO work for the Pentatone SACD test -- i.e., no need to use DIFFERENT sub volume trim just because you are listening to SACD.


Presuming you are using ANALOG-DSP and ARC in the Anthem, the speakers in the OPPO should all be set to Large (with Sub ON) and the volume trims in the OPPO for all of them should be at 0dB --EXCEPT for Sub which should be at +5dB. Set Analog down-mix in the OPPO to 5.1. Set that way, the volume trims ALREADY established by ARC in the Anthem will work correctly both for HDMI audio AND for this multi-channel Analog audio from the OPPO. You may need to lower the Analog Input Level in the Anthem for the 6-CH input by -1.5dB to match the absolute volume levels of the Analog input and HDMI input (and remove any chance the Analog input might clip). But that's a change that happens across all speakers so it doesn't alter the relative volume balance between them.

--Bob


----------



## scheong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21840231
> 
> 
> Actually that old bug (fixed some time ago) also affected SACD LFE level on the HDMI output.
> 
> 
> Remember that it is not the absolute SPL level that you are matching. There's no reason to believe the tones on the two discs are recorded at the same volume. What matters is the trims you need to make to balance sub vs. mains. The level adjustments you make to balance sub vs. mains on the AIX disc should ALSO work for the Pentatone SACD test -- i.e., no need to use DIFFERENT sub volume trim just because you are listening to SACD.
> 
> 
> Presuming you are using ANALOG-DSP and ARC in the Anthem, the speakers in the OPPO should all be set to Large (with Sub ON) and the volume trims in the OPPO for all of them should be at 0dB --EXCEPT for Sub which should be at +5dB. Set Analog down-mix in the OPPO to 5.1. Set that way, the volume trims ALREADY established by ARC in the Anthem will work correctly both for HDMI audio AND for this multi-channel Analog audio from the OPPO. You may need to lower the Analog Input Level in the Anthem for the 6-CH input by -1.5dB to match the absolute volume levels of the Analog input and HDMI input (and remove any chance the Analog input might clip). But that's a change that happens across all speakers so it doesn't alter the relative volume balance between them.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


Yes, I understand. The relative sound level between sub and mains should be the same between the AIX disk and Pentatone SACD test disk...if things are working correctly.


Since I am connecting the BDP-95 to the AVM50v via HDMI, do I still need to go into the BDP-95's multi-channel setup menu to set speaker size, volume trim, and down-mix?


Stanley


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Also, if you have a sub that goes deep you should have THX Ultra 2 Sub set. And if the Sub is up against a wall you may or may not want to have Boundary Gain Compensation set.



Hi Bob. As I have 2 Seaton Submersives should I experiment with the above? Would engaging THX Ultra 2 sub override settings set by ARC?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21839049
> 
> 
> Stud
> 
> 
> First, I would be concerned with marring the finish on the top of the Sub2.
> 
> 
> You would probably be better off with a center speaker stand for the C5 and then finding the best sounding place for the Sub2 between the L/F, Center
> 
> and R/F speakers if the sub has to be along the front wall.
> 
> I have heard that a vertical center speaker if it is going to be behind or just below the screen is optimum. I don't know the dispersion of the C5. You might want to investigate.
> 
> 
> Stew



Thanks Stew, I have read that the center should be the same as the mains, S8s, if it's going behind the screen. I am not as worried about my finish on top of the Sub 2 as not long after I installed it it rattled the heat vent cover out of the ceiling and it fell on the sub leaving a bad 6" long dent in the wood.







Maybe the best spot will be between the main and the center, I'll see when I get it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Bob. As I have 2 Seaton Submersives should I experiment with the above? Would engaging THX Ultra 2 sub override settings set by ARC?



No. When ARC is active for a Source, those settings I mentioned are ignored -- replaced by the more sophisticated ARC processing.


Those settings are also ignored during ARC Measurement.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scheong* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Yes, I understand. The relative sound level between sub and mains should be the same between the AIX disk and Pentatone SACD test disk...if things are working correctly.
> 
> 
> Since I am connecting the BDP-95 to the AVM50v via HDMI, do I still need to go into the BDP-95's multi-channel setup menu to set speaker size, volume trim, and down-mix?
> 
> 
> Stanley



No those OPPO settings only alter it's multi-channel Analog outputs. I somehow got the impression you were using both Analog and HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## scheong

Hi Bob,


Looks like the BDP-95 bug affecting the SACD LFE level on the HDMI output is still there. My BDP-95 is on the latest official firmware (BDP9x-65-0302).


SACD test disk sound levels:

LF - 60db, C - 60db, RF - 60db, LS - 61db, RS - 61db, Sub - 68db


AIX bluray test disk sound levels:

LF - 60db, C - 60db, RF - 60db, LS - 61db, RS - 61db, Sub - 63db


I will forward this info to Oppo.


Thanx for your help.


Stanley


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scheong* /forum/post/21841976
> 
> 
> Looks like the BDP-95 bug affecting the SACD LFE level on the HDMI output is still there. I will forward this info to Oppo.



Make sure you tell them you've got the Oppo outputting SACD as PCM so they don't say it's your receiver.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21839856
> 
> 
> Limiting the correction range allows ARC to concentrate its processing resources in the frequency range you want corrected. Which may result in a cleaner solution.



Yeah but from looking at where the dips and peaks start in my charts it seems ARC is set to "give up" just when the going gets tough. I guess this is by design to not "stress" the speakers from massive corrections.


----------



## scheong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21841995
> 
> 
> Make sure you tell them you've got the Oppo outputting SACD as PCM so they don't say it's your receiver.



Will do.


Stanley


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah but from looking at where the dips and peaks start in my charts it seems ARC is set to "give up" just when the going gets tough. I guess this is by design to not "stress" the speakers from massive corrections.



I've no idea what you are talking about. You can change the Max EQ Frequency you know if you want ARC to correct higher up in frequency and believe the mic data up there is accurate. Keep in mind the mic data may NOT be accurate at the highest frequencies due to speaker directionality and environmental effects.


ARC's protective limit is that it won't try to provide more than +6dB boost to a dip. It doesn't pick a different default Max EQ Frequency on its own based on whether it sees treble problems.


If your speakers need a lot of correction across all frequencies, then instructing ARC to correct higher up may produce poorer results in the normal correction range due to the diversion of resources. Thus it is usually good to take what steps you can to improve the raw, uncorrected treble output first -- such as correcting speaker pointing or checking for improper grill mounting.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scheong* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Looks like the BDP-95 bug affecting the SACD LFE level on the HDMI output is still there. My BDP-95 is on the latest official firmware (BDP9x-65-0302).
> 
> 
> SACD test disk sound levels:
> 
> LF - 60db, C - 60db, RF - 60db, LS - 61db, RS - 61db, Sub - 68db
> 
> 
> AIX bluray test disk sound levels:
> 
> LF - 60db, C - 60db, RF - 60db, LS - 61db, RS - 61db, Sub - 63db
> 
> 
> I will forward this info to Oppo.
> 
> 
> Thanx for your help.
> 
> 
> Stanley



I'll repeat that test on my 93 in a bit and report back.


ETA: Once I've had a chance to check this, I'll reply to your post in this in the BDP-95 thread, since we should move this discussion over there until we are sure there's not a problem in your OPPO.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21842260
> 
> 
> I've no idea what you are talking about. You can change the Max EQ Frequency you know if you want ARC to correct higher up in frequency and believe the mic data up there is accurate.
> 
> 
> ARC's protective limit is that it won't try to provide more than +6dB boost to a dip. It doesn't pick a different default Max EQ Frequency on its own based on whether it sees treble problems.



I am talking more the cutoffs for each speaker not the Max EQ freq. From what I see the targets are not being set very aggressively. Getting +6dB boost would be better than nothing.


For the higher frequencies the charts show that all my speakers drop off 3-6dB at around 10k (the fronts rather sharply; the surrounds more gradually). Would that appear to be consistent (i.e. trustworthy) readings and therefore justification for increasing Max EQ freq?


I was more curious about the cutoffs though. For example, ARC set the cutoff on my Energy Veritas Center to 95 Hz (it should be good down to at least 60) and that is right at a large peak in my chart (60 - 100 Hz). Below that is a large dip (40 - 60 Hz). I was thinking of this as "giving up" on the situation but I guess they chose to let the crossover filter take over early instead of applying cut, boost, then crossover.


Thanks,

Stefan


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Just to not leave things hanging, it appears that Stanley has indeed found an OPPO player bug re his discovery posted above that SACD .1 channel level is roughly +5dB too hot.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21843180
> 
> 
> I am talking more the cutoffs for each speaker not the Max EQ freq. From what I see the targets are not being set very aggressively. Getting +6dB boost would be better than nothing.
> 
> 
> For the higher frequencies the charts show that all my speakers drop off 3-6dB at around 10k (the fronts rather sharply; the surrounds more gradually). Would that appear to be consistent (i.e. trustworthy) readings and therefore justification for increasing Max EQ freq?
> 
> 
> I was more curious about the cutoffs though. For example, ARC set the cutoff on my Energy Veritas Center to 95 Hz (it should be good down to at least 60) and that is right at a large peak in my chart (60 - 100 Hz). Below that is a large dip (40 - 60 Hz). I was thinking of this as "giving up" on the situation but I guess they chose to let the crossover filter take over early instead of applying cut, boost, then crossover.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Stefan



It looks like ARC takes into account the AMOUNT of correction it would need to apply if it used a lower Cutoff on a main speaker channel. If the Subwoofer measures as capable, then ARC does indeed end up picking a higher Cutoff for the main speaker and relying on the Sub to support that speaker below that point rather than forcing a lot of correction.


A peak with a dip just below it in frequency can look to ARC like the main speaker's natural rolloff has already started at a frequency above the peak. I.e., that the "dip" is in fact not a dip, but just the extension of the natural roll off of that speaker -- which means the peak just above that in frequency is an even BIGGER problem.


Sometimes the eye can see things here that ARC doesn't spot, and so lowering the Cutoff to use some of the lower frequency energy might be a good "tweak".


One thing to keep in mind though: The Crossover is not like a switch. It doesn't happen suddenly at one frequency. It rolls into effect over about an octave of frequencies (a factor of 2). THAT MEANS when checking to see if a a Cutoff is well chosen, you need to check for how good the correction is (i.e., how closely the Calculated curve matches the Target curve) for an octave BELOW the Cutoff.


In other words, a Cutoff of 60Hz is only "good" if ARC is able to produce good correction down to 30Hz -- one octave lower. If not, then the Cutoff should be raised above 60Hz. A Cutoff of 100Hz is "good" if ARC has good correction all the way down to at least 50Hz. The response curve is -12dB down one octave lower, so residual errors in the correction below that frequency don't matter as the basic signal is already attenuated enough down there that you won't hear them.


There are different requirements tugging in the other direction though. A Cutoff that's too high will move high bass into the subwoofer -- making it localizable (i.e., you can tell the sound is coming from it). This is particularly a problem if Center is given a high Cutoff because then dialog starts being heard from the Sub.


Try to keep the Cutoff for Center no higher than about 90Hz to prevent this. Of course if your Center really isn't capable of going that low, then you have a problem -- best fixed by replacing it with a more capable Center speaker.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scheong* /forum/post/21840579
> 
> 
> Yes, I understand. The relative sound level between sub and mains should be the same between the AIX disk and Pentatone SACD test disk...if things are working correctly.



Just to reiterate, unless you are using a spectrum analyzer, the AIX disc is not useful for LFE channel calibration.


Did you find a THX Optimizer disc? That will be much more useful wrt PCM confirmation.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21843851
> 
> 
> Just to reiterate, unless you are using a spectrum analyzer, the AIX disc is not useful for LFE channel calibration.
> 
> 
> Did you find a THX Optimizer disc? That will be much more useful wrt PCM confirmation.



Roger, I don't follow your concern here with the AIX LPCM test tracks. So far, every test I've done with them is consistent in result with other test tracks (including the THX stuff found on some discs). The AIX results are also consistent with what I would expect given my ARC solution (e.g., the small increase in Sub level associated with the retained Room Gain).

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21838730
> 
> 
> When ARC is active, LFE Bypass Xover is in effect. This means that *redirected bass is crossed over at the Sub Xover frequency displayed in the setup menu*,



Good.



> Quote:
> while LFE runs unfiltered at its native 120 Hz bandwidth.



Not so good. The problem with LFE is that it is not always properly limited to 120 Hz. So it is best to have an LFE filter all the time. And being able to set it, say, for Movies (120 Hz) and Music (80 Hz) is a great idea.



> Quote:
> Behind-the-scenes DSP is in effect to prevent combing the frequency response as a result of adding a signal to its delayed counterpart (all filters cause delay according to slope, frequency, and type).



Where would a delayed counterpart come from? LFE is not redirected bass, it is a different channel.



> Quote:
> Some time ago a magazine which checks bass management under all user options stated that when it came to non-standard configurations ours was the only one that they observed getting it right, primarily because of avoiding comb filtering issues.



That's good, as far as it goes. I presume they were testing with some sort of test signal that puts a frequency sweep into all channels simultaneously. It's a reasonable test, but does not represent most real-world content. No harm in dealing with it as you have, of course.



> Quote:
> I wish I could remember which magazine it was.



Probably one with David Ranada. Stereo Review? We helped make test signals for him back in the day.



> Quote:
> When LFE Bypass is not engaged, i.e. when a more conventional crossover is in effect, "Sub Xover" which is seen in the setup menu (and not ARC Targets) performs exactly as labeled - set it too low and you lose too much LFE. This is indeed why we provided a Movie and Music configuration starting long before ARC.



If "Sub Crossover" is a crossover, then why would any LFE signal be lost? If it is lost because it is a lowpass filter without a complementary highpass (and redirection), then it is indeed an LFE filter and not a crossover as I thought.










Is there a block diagram somewhere? Something like this? The 110 Hz filter is the one I'm referring to as the LFE filter. Is that the user adjustable "Sub Crossover"?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21843942
> 
> 
> Roger, I don't follow your concern here with the AIX LPCM test tracks. So far, every test I've done with them is consistent in result with other test tracks (including the THX stuff found on some discs). The AIX results are also consistent with what I would expect given my ARC solution (e.g., the small increase in Sub level associated with the retained Room Gain).



Your result does not mean that every user will get a consistent result. If the bandwidth of the subwoofer changes, the SPL will change because the AIX LFE channel is 20 kHz wide. Two correctly calibrated subs, one that covers 10 Hz to 100 Hz and another that covers 30 Hz to 80 Hz will read different SPLs. But if you play the THX signal thru them, they will both read the same, as they should.


----------



## scheong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21843851
> 
> 
> Just to reiterate, unless you are using a spectrum analyzer, the AIX disc is not useful for LFE channel calibration.
> 
> 
> Did you find a THX Optimizer disc? That will be much more useful wrt PCM confirmation.



Hi Roger,


No, I don't have a THX Optimizer disc. Can you recommend one? I will try a search on Amazon.


Stanley


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21844031
> 
> 
> Your result does not mean that every user will get a consistent result. If the bandwidth of the subwoofer changes, the SPL will change because the AIX LFE channel is 20 kHz wide. Two correctly calibrated subs, one that covers 10 Hz to 100 Hz and another that covers 30 Hz to 80 Hz will read different SPLs. But if you play the THX signal thru them, they will both read the same, as they should.



I'm still not with you. If the problem is that the subwoofer is not capable of reproducing the full bass range -- and thus reads a lower SPL (compared to a sub with wider range) when you play this test track -- why SHOULDN'T its output be raised to compensate? When playing real content, the frequencies it can reproduce will be a bit overemphasized, but the frequencies it can't reproduce will be missing. On, umm, balance, isn't this the desired result?


ETA: And as for Stanley's case, the AIX tracks are reading the "correct" results -- the results we would expect after an ARC setup -- whereas it is the SACD test which is unexpectedly hot for the LFE channel. If I understand your concern, it would be that that AIX track might produce an SPL that is confusingly higher than a more constrained bass test track would produce. I.e., switching to a different, more constrained, comparison track instead of AIX could only make Stanley's observed SACD anomaly worse. Right?

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21843993
> 
> 
> The problem with LFE is that it is not always properly limited to 120 Hz. So it is best to have an LFE filter all the time.
> 
> 
> LFE is not redirected bass, it is a different channel.
> 
> 
> If "Sub Crossover" is a crossover, then why would any LFE signal be lost? If it is lost because it is a lowpass filter without a complementary highpass (and redirection), then it is indeed an LFE filter and not a crossover as I thought. Is there a block diagram somewhere?
> 
> 
> The 110 Hz filter is the one I'm referring to as the LFE filter. Is that the user adjustable "Sub Crossover"?



Responses numbered to correlate with excerpts above:


1. Sampling rate for LFE is 240 Hz, no? Therefore it cannot have content above 120 Hz. Tom Holman's book (2nd ed) page 60:

http://books.google.ca/books?id=nnLA...0%20Hz&f=false 


So my question is that even if the encoder's 120 Hz filter is not selected and the input signal has content above that frequency, how would it be possible to encode it without the result being loaded with aliasing artifacts? That would be a lot more concerning than any other implication discussed here on the playback end.


2. LFE may be a different channel but that doesn't stop anyone from putting the same content as other channels in it, for example with a pop album recreated in surround for DVD-A or Blu-ray. It's not like the kick drum or bass guitar are exclusive to the LFE track in the surround mix - there is overlap if not wholesale copy from L/R, which can remain full range in the recording. Even if it's only crossed over, limiting L/R bandwidth in the recording, there is still overlap and the phase effects from adding signals in the electrical domain (the summed sub channel) are a lot nastier than in the acoustic domain (phase-matching fronts and sub) since that involves decorrelation to varying degree. It also happens that most of the energy from kick drum and bass guitar is usually right around 80 Hz.


ETA: Page 3-6 in 46_DDEncodingGuidelines.pdf (use the file name as search term) in the last paragraph before section 3.5 says that essential info should never be exclusive to LFE and that LFE info essential to the listening experience should be copied to the fronts to ensure that it will be heard if the LFE channel is discarded, which is not only allowed but most often the case during downmix (AVM/D preserves it). In other words there's plenty of shared content out there between front and LFE channels.


3. The crossover configuration options in the Dolby Licensee Information Manual have all channels being summed with LFE before any filtering takes place, therefore once the summed Sub channel is run through the low-pass filter, redirected bass and LFE are rolled off alike. Again, this is not what happens when LFE Bypass is selected, as ARC always does. LFE Bypass selection is in the same setup menu as the crossovers in case anyone's looking for this.


4. It isn't.


----------



## dmusoke

Nick:


Thanks for your contributions to this thread as i, for one, value them highly, along with Bob Pariseau, of course.


In my case, I have electro-statics (dipole) speakers for mains (Martin Logans Spires) that broadcast sound from the front and back. I have found that using ARC, my imaging width and depth narrows greatly which is a suprise to me at all. I've never had standard cone speakers so i can't relate if others have the same experience or not. If i turn if off, then the imaging expands as expected. My room is well-treated with bass, mid and high-frequency sound absorbers.


My question is: Does the ARC process alter the interphase timing between speakers than was in the program material before? If not, would you have an explanation for what i'm clearly hearing?


Thanks,

David


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21844950
> 
> 
> Responses numbered to correlate with excerpts above:



Nick,


Thanks for the replies.



> Quote:
> 1. Sampling rate for LFE is 240 Hz, no? Therefore it cannot have content above 120 Hz.
> 
> 
> So my question is that even if the encoder's 120 Hz filter is not selected and the input signal has content above that frequency, how would it be possible to encode it without the result being loaded with aliasing artifacts? That would be a lot more concerning than any other implication discussed here on the playback end.



No, the sampling rate of the LFE channel in DD is not 240 Hz. The bandwidth can go as far as 600-700 Hz. Yes, there would be aliasing which is why Dolby provides the 120 Hz LPF.


But the world of 5.1 is not confined to DD. PCM, lossless, they can all carry wideband audio in the "LFE" channel.



> Quote:
> 2. LFE may be a different channel but that doesn't stop anyone from putting the same content as other channels in it, for example with a pop album recreated in surround for DVD-A or Blu-ray. It's not like the kick drum or bass guitar are exclusive to the LFE track in the surround mix - there is overlap if not wholesale copy from L/R, which can remain full range in the recording.



Yes, the LFE track is often derived from the mains, but it is not merely copied -- at least not if the mix engineer is worth his salt. Various tools and effects are used to embellish the LFE content.



> Quote:
> Even if it's only crossed over, limiting L/R bandwidth in the recording, there is still overlap and the phase effects from adding signals in the electrical domain (the summed sub channel) are a lot nastier than in the acoustic domain (phase-matching fronts and sub) since that involves decorrelation to varying degree. It also happens that most of the energy from kick drum and bass guitar is usually right around 80 Hz.



That's why music does not belong in the LFE channel in the first place. That's not what it is for. Maybe the cannon from the 1812 Overture, but other than that...



> Quote:
> ETA: Page 3-6 in 46_DDEncodingGuidelines.pdf (use the file name as search term) in the last paragraph before section 3.5 says that essential info should never be exclusive to LFE and that LFE info essential to the listening experience should be copied to the fronts to ensure that it will be heard if the LFE channel is discarded, which is not only allowed but most often the case during downmix (AVM/D preserves it). In other words there's plenty of shared content out there between front and LFE channels.



There is very little in LFE that is "essential" to the storytelling, so very little would be copied to the mains. One example where they neglected to do so was in the opening of Lion King, where the elephant stomps in over the hill. Turn off LFE: no elephant. This is an obvious example that shows LFE is not routinely shifted to the mains. I can assure you no one is doing that on any regular basis.


Probably getting too far OT to delve further into LFE use, and I already stated originally that it was a nice gesture for Anthem to have taken care to avoid combing if that condition should arise. But this has nothing to do with the question at hand: the LFE filter.



> Quote:
> 3. The crossover configuration options in the Dolby Licensee Information Manual have all channels being summed with LFE before any filtering takes place, therefore once the summed Sub channel is run through the low-pass filter, redirected bass and LFE are rolled off alike.



Yes, we did this to minimize the number of filters. This was 1995, and DSPs were meager at best. The crossover was also limited to >80 Hz in those days. Now the DSPs have moved on, and each channel (or subgroup) can have its own full crossover, with the filtered bass mixed with the LFE. Thus, the LFE now cannot rely on the crossover filter to restrict the BW (or to hide any aliasing), so a separate LFE filter is needed, and routinely included.



> Quote:
> Again, this is not what happens when LFE Bypass is selected, as ARC always does. LFE Bypass selection is in the same setup menu as the crossovers in case anyone's looking for this.



Yes, I now understand that LFE Bypass means the unfiltered LFE goes straight through. This is the reason I commented "not so good." Not a critical problem, but not ideal either. Something for future reference.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scheong* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Roger,
> 
> 
> No, I don't have a THX Optimizer disc. Can you recommend one? I will try a search on Amazon.
> 
> 
> Stanley



Check your DVD and BD collection for THX logos. Many of the Disney Pixar titles have it - an option in the setup menu.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not so good. The problem with LFE is that it is not always properly limited to 120 Hz. So it is best to have an LFE filter all the time. And being able to set it, say, for Movies (120 Hz) and Music (80 Hz) is a great idea.



What processors do this and where would you have them send the LP filtered LFE? Back to the mains? If you are suggesting discarding it then every sub already does this by nature.


----------



## scheong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21845579
> 
> 
> Check your DVD and BD collection for THX logos. Many of the Disney Pixar titles have it - an option in the setup menu.



Thanx Stefan. I will check the Pixar titles in my collection.


Stanley


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21845597
> 
> 
> What processors do this and where would you have them send the LP filtered LFE? Back to the mains? If you are suggesting discarding it then every sub already does this by nature.



Yes, discard above the cutoff frequency.


Yes, subs have filters in them, but the idea is to defeat those filters so as to minimize their effects thus allowing the AVR/processor to take control. If you set the sub's LPF for 120 Hz, it will mess with the signals being redirected from the mains set for 80 Hz, let's say.


Lots of processors have a separate filter for LFE (the ones that don't, lump the LFE into the redirected bass feeding the crossover filter, but these are getting rarer over time). Not all processors let the consumer adjust the filter breakpoint. It is preset in my SSP-800. It was adjustable in my Tag AV32-R. Marantz happens to allow adjustment. Here's the text from the AV7005 manual:



> Quote:
> LPF for LFE : Set LFE signal playback range.
> 
> • 80Hz / 90Hz / 100Hz / 110Hz / 120Hz / 150Hz / 200Hz / 250Hz



In reading the Statement D2 manual, I found an enlightening explanation:



> Quote:
> Advanced Settings – Bypass LFE Crossover:
> 
> If you have set SUB/LFE XOVER to much lower than 80 Hz, the upper portion of the LFE signal will be lost. With BYPASS LFE XOVER set to Yes, LFE goes to the subwoofer without going through the crossover, preventing loss of LFE information.



So it looks to me like in one case all the bass is summed with LFE and that goes thru the Sub crossover filter. But there is an option to break out the LFE and let it go to the sub directly. Since there is no LFE filter, then yes, it might be worth activating the LPF in the subwoofer around 120 Hz in that case. But then the ARC should be run again so it can see it.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21844552
> 
> 
> I'm still not with you. If the problem is that the subwoofer is not capable of reproducing the full bass range -- and thus reads a lower SPL (compared to a sub with wider range) when you play this test track -- why SHOULDN'T its output be raised to compensate? When playing real content, the frequencies it can reproduce will be a bit overemphasized, but the frequencies it can't reproduce will be missing. On, umm, balance, isn't this the desired result?



Just that; >>the frequencies it can reproduce will be a bit overemphasized.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Roger, it still sounds to me like all you are saying is that the better your Sub -- the wider range of its output -- the better the single measure of SPL works as a surrogate for properly correcting the Sub's frequency response. If you've got a poor quality Sub, SPL Measurement can only do so much to help you pick a level for it.


If you have a Sub with limited capabilities, raising its output a bit to compensate for the missing frequencies would seem better to me for Movies (but perhaps not for Music). If you have a Sub with wide ranging capability, using a wider range bass tone in the SPL measurement would seem more accurate to me given that you are relying an a single, aggregate measure in the first place.


Of course all this is just an intellectual exercise for ARC users since ARC takes care of all of that stuff across the frequency range the Sub can reproduce. I.e., no SPL or test tone worries anyway.


And it still doesn't explain the SACD anomaly -- since presumably the SACD bass test tone can't be wider range than the AIX test tone. If AIX is producing a bad comparison here -- and again both in Stanley's case and in my tests AIX is producing what appears to be the expected -- correct -- result given the ARC solution -- using a more limited range tone than AIX would just make the SACD anomaly look worse, right?

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21845174
> 
> 
> Nick:
> 
> 
> Thanks for your contributions to this thread as i, for one, value them highly, along with Bob Pariseau, of course.
> 
> 
> In my case, I have electro-statics (dipole) speakers for mains (Martin Logans Spires) that broadcast sound from the front and back. I have found that using ARC, my imaging width and depth narrows greatly which is a suprise to me at all. I've never had standard cone speakers so i can't relate if others have the same experience or not. If i turn if off, then the imaging expands as expected. My room is well-treated with bass, mid and high-frequency sound absorbers.
> 
> 
> My question is: Does the ARC process alter the interphase timing between speakers than was in the program material before? If not, would you have an explanation for what i'm clearly hearing?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



David,

I noticed in your targets that 'max eq freq' is set to 500 rather than the default 5000. Some of the people here, including Bob if I remember correctly, set their 'max eq' higher than 5000, but I haven't seen many who choose to set it lower.

Is this a setting you use because of your Martin logans? If so, why?


FWIW, I did a quick a/b/c check toggling between 'analog'/'analog dsp' and 'arc on'/'arc off'.

I couldn't hear any difference in the soundstage/imaging between 'analog'/'analog dsp'. I wasn't using music with deep bass that I would need my sub to reproduce.

With arc on I felt that imaging was significantly better than with it off.

All results are subjective. YMMV.

I use standard cone in an enclosure speakers -Paradigm S2's.


Any way, I was more concerned about your 'max eq' choice.


Tom


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21845174
> 
> 
> Does the ARC process alter the interphase timing between speakers than was in the program material before? If not, would you have an explanation for what i'm clearly hearing?



ARC fixes phase indirectly. When the room's effect on frequency response is undone the room's phase effects that affected frequency response are inherently countered.


That ARC focuses the image is an almost universal comment and I suspect it's because the frequency response gets closer to a perfect match left to right. This is the opposite of the "rechanneled for stereo" effect where a mono signal is split into frequency bands alternating between left and right to create a wider image. In a way some vinyl effects are similar in that differences between the two groove walls modulate left and right differently resulting in a big soundstage that sounds nice despite not being on the master tape. THX Adaptive Decorrelation is like this too for the surrounds, and plenty of studio tricks follow the same lines.


If you're up for an experiment that more or less shows what this is about, send a decent-sounding mono recording such as Buddy Holly like to the surround inputs of 6-Ch S/E, temporarily reconnect the surround pre-outs to front amp ins, and compare the sound with THX Music Mode on/off (give it a few seconds for Adaptive Decorrelation to kick in since it has to sense that the signal is mono before taking effect). Alternatively, split either channel from the source to the surround inputs for a real mono source.


Back to the point: Your measured curves show differences between left and right in the 150-400 Hz region. Eliminating them via EQ is what I suspect is narrowing the image, or restoring it depending on how you prefer to look at it.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21845353
> 
> 
> But the world of 5.1 is not confined to DD. PCM, lossless, they can all carry wideband audio in the "LFE" channel.



True although I'd have to say that the only time I've heard of a sub directionality issue was when ARC's sub frequency limit was 160 Hz (lowered to 120 quite a while ago) and that was a result not of LFE but of redirecting the bottom end of male dialog to a sub beside the listening chair.


In the event of an anomalous recording containing higher frequencies where they don't belong there's still the option of disabling LFE Bypass. If in doubt, the main amps can always be turned off briefly to check what's coming out of the sub.


Correction: In the event of an anomalous recording that results in actual directional bass that's audible when the main speakers are on, use the sub's built in crossover at a frequency higher than the crossover frequency in the AVM/D. Due to the slopes involved, there's no overlap to speak of when the processor's is at say 120 while the the sub's is set to 160.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21843180
> 
> 
> Getting +6dB boost would be better than nothing. ... For example, ARC set the cutoff on my Energy Veritas Center to 95 Hz (it should be good down to at least 60) and that is right at a large peak in my chart (60 - 100 Hz). Below that is a large dip (40 - 60 Hz). I was thinking of this as "giving up" on the situation but I guess they chose to let the crossover filter take over early instead of applying cut, boost, then crossover.



Try this:


Reset your ARC file to the auto detected settings. Now your fronts targets are at 60 whereas center is at 95. That's because of the center's huge dip at 50 Hz, which is in sharp contrast to the peak at 70 Hz then another at 90 Hz. Now change the fronts target to 60 Hz, just as an experiment not that I'd recommend leaving it there. What do you see in the corrected curve right at 50 Hz? A boost of exactly 6 dB, the most that's allowed by design to prevent bad things from happening to speakers, but still 6 dB off target because the measured dip is by chance exactly *12* dB from target. You can't lose what you never had and there are limits to everything.


While it's probably not easy to reposition the center channel, I recommend doing something about the sub instead. It's almost tanking at 125 Hz which means rolloff is starting at 50-60 Hz. Fix the 125 Hz trough by repositioning and response will be much better up to where it counts, around 100 Hz. Just ask Jayray.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21847142
> 
> 
> True although I'd have to say that the only time I've heard of a sub directionality issue was when ARC's sub frequency limit was 160 Hz (lowered to 120 quite a while ago) and that was a result not of LFE but of redirecting the bottom end of male dialog to a sub beside the listening chair.



Excess dialog bass is indeed an annoyance caused by the HDTV programmers who upmix 5.1 from stereo. These fake LFE channels are mostly counterproductive.



> Quote:
> In the event of an anomalous recording containing higher frequencies where they don't belong there's still the option of disabling LFE Bypass.



So it is actually possible to disable the LFE bypass while ARC is running? I thought that was not possible based on an earlier post.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21848018
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> So it is actually possible to disable the LFE bypass while ARC is running? I thought that was not possible based on an earlier post.



I'm curious about this too!










If it can be done, it can ALSO be disabled By Mistake -- something to watch out for if folks are hearing problems.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21848018
> 
> 
> So it is actually possible to disable the LFE bypass while ARC is running? I thought that was not possible based on an earlier post.



You're right, I goofed. The LFE Bypass menu setting is ignored when ARC is on.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21848018
> 
> 
> Excess dialog bass is indeed an annoyance caused by the HDTV programmers who upmix 5.1 from stereo. These fake LFE channels are mostly counterproductive.



But here's the thing - despite LFE bypass I've never had a single complaint about it from users.


----------



## drhankz

Anthem is closed for the weekend.


I had to UPGRADE my D2 version 1.33 to 1.47f for 3D support with

the Panasonic dual HDMI 310.


That fixed that problem.


Today I tried to run ARC version 3.0.2.


I have never run this version on this computer - Windows 7 Ultimate.


Everything appears to run normal - all the tones go to all 7.1 Speakers.


My Problem is ARC does not like my Subwoofer. It gets an error code 0x04.


I have tried all the level adjust I can - NOTHING solves the problem.


Any IDEAS?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Are you getting the test sweep tones produced on the Sub? If not, make sure the Sub is enabled in your Speaker Configuration in the D2. ARC will produce an error if you tell it to try to Measure a speaker that is not enabled in the Speaker Configuration.


Also check that the Sub is turning on. If you are using Triggers, I believe ARC does its work with the FM Source selected. Which means you need to be sure the Trigger for the Sub is active when the FM Source is selected. If the Trigger is just based on Power ON for the Main path of the D2 that should suffice.


If you ARE getting the sweep tone from the Sub but ARC still does't like it, then I don't have any suggestions for you except for the level changes you've already tried.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21846509
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> I noticed in your targets that 'max eq freq' is set to 500 rather than the default 5000. Some of the people here, including Bob if I remember correctly, set their 'max eq' higher than 5000, but I haven't seen many who choose to set it lower.
> 
> Is this a setting you use because of your Martin logans? If so, why?
> 
> 
> FWIW, I did a quick a/b/c check toggling between 'analog'/'analog dsp' and 'arc on'/'arc off'.
> 
> I couldn't hear any difference in the soundstage/imaging between 'analog'/'analog dsp'. I wasn't using music with deep bass that I would need my sub to reproduce.
> 
> With arc on I felt that imaging was significantly better than with it off.
> 
> All results are subjective. YMMV.
> 
> I use standard cone in an enclosure speakers -Paradigm S2's.
> 
> 
> Any way, I was more concerned about your 'max eq' choice.
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom:


I choose the 500Hz cutoff because, above that, the frequency response of the speaker are fairly flat and frequencies become more directional so i decided to leave them alone. I was also deciding to see reducing the EQ frequency would help alleviate the imaging problems i'm having.


Thanks for taking the time to test the imaging quality with and w/o ARC. Its really helpful to know you don't hear these problems i'm having.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21849531
> 
> 
> If you ARE getting the sweep tone from the Sub but ARC still does't like it, then I don't have any suggestions for you except for the level changes you've already tried.
> 
> --Bob


*YES BOB* - I get all the sweep tones in the 7.1 Channels INCLUDING the

Subs. I even turned down the 4 extra sub channels to ZERO.


The Sub channels sound LOUD - but ARC does not like it. I will call Anthem

on Monday or Tuesday. This is a Problem I have had since day-one and

I was lucky enough with Nick's HELP and OLDER SW to get it to run.


I wonder if I have had a faulty mic since day-one that does not like Low Frequencies


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21849228
> 
> 
> Everything appears to run normal - all the tones go to all 7.1 Speakers. My Problem is ARC does not like my Subwoofer. It gets an error code 0x04. I have tried all the level adjust I can - NOTHING solves the problem.



That's a new one for me if the sub tone is loud enough. There have been Windows 7 issues here and there but as far as I know they're the kind that don't recognize the mic. Still, I can't think of any other possibility, even a highly remote one and I wish I could help but all I can say is wait for Andrew's response on Monday since he's more in tune with ARC over Windows 7.


Another thing to try until then is to make a copy of the old ARC file and open it with v3 software. It'll be converted to the new format and if nothing looks unusual in the graphs and you're a bit adventurous, just load it into the D2. I can't imagine any big issue except maybe having to manually adjust sub level.


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21849776
> 
> 
> Tom:
> 
> 
> I choose the 500Hz cutoff because, above that, the frequency response of the speaker are fairly flat and frequencies become more directional so i decided to leave them alone. I was also deciding to see reducing the EQ frequency would help alleviate the imaging problems i'm having.
> 
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to test the imaging quality with and w/o ARC. Its really helpful to know you don't hear these problems i'm having.



I also have full-range dipoles and ARC produces no imaging anomalies.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21848316
> 
> 
> But here's the thing - despite LFE bypass I've never had a single complaint about it from users.



I can understand that. No one had complained to Classe, either. Until I brought it up, that is. It took me a year to drill down and find this issue in my current setup. Some things never made sense, like why the stereo mix on a given SACD sounded spectrally correct (like most CDs), while the 5.1 mix was so different (muddy bass). Could the engineers be ignoring all this bass muck?


When I changed my LFE filter from 200 Hz to 80 Hz, it all snapped into place: the 5.1 spectral balance matched the stereo mix.







My suspicion is that the mix engineers were undoubtedly listening to their full range monitors plus a subwoofer just for the LFE, which was probably limited to 80 Hz. The LFE they heard was thus limited to 80 Hz but the signal they printed was not filtered the same way. 200 Hz? How about 120 Hz? Nope, it was better but not sufficient.


This is just one example to illustrate that even if people hear the unintended result, it might not automatically trigger a suspicion about the LFE bandwidth. And with movies it's even less obvious because of the artificial nature of LFE content. 5.1 music was the tip-off for me, and the benefits that came along for TV audio, and to a lesser extent for movies, were icing on the cake.


Playing a lot of content with an adjustable LFE filter helps one develop a feel for how it affects the overall result -- which indeed varies depending on the type of source and how it was prepared.


----------



## MStanic

At Source Setup, should Dolby Volume and Dolby Volume Level be set to ON or OFF. All of my sources are set as follows:


Dolby Volume ON

Dolby Volume Level 9


Does ARC set these or not and what should they be set to?


Also, are there any other settings that ARC does or does not effect which should be set to ON or OFF or adjusted manually (before or after ARC is run) in order to achieve optimal sound.


Finally, I wish to rerun ARC so what are the steps again to reset (do I actually do a factory default reset on the D2v) the current values. Are the test tones still being calibrated to 75db and the speaker distances being set manually or do we let ARC take care of this?


I also have the PBK kit, so should I run it first before ARC in order to set my sub again?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21849827
> 
> 
> That's a new one for me if the sub tone is loud enough. There have been Windows 7 issues here and there but as far as I know they're the kind that don't recognize the mic. Still, I can't think of any other possibility, even a highly remote one and I wish I could help but all I can say is wait for Andrew's response on Monday since he's more in tune with ARC over Windows 7.
> 
> 
> Another thing to try until then is to make a copy of the old ARC file and open it with v3 software. It'll be converted to the new format and if nothing looks unusual in the graphs and you're a bit adventurous, just load it into the D2. I can't imagine any big issue except maybe having to manually adjust sub level.



OMG - Find the Old ARC files - that was two generations of computers

ago. I might have the oldest D2 - I was running XP then and later Vista

and Now Windows 7. I don't change OS - I change Computers










I will search my files - *DO THEY HAVE ARC* in the Name?


Today I will try OLDER ARC software. I doubt it is Windows 7.


I HONESTLY believe it might be the *MIC* - It was like this *DAY-ONE*.


I’ll call Andrew during the week.


I found the OLD ARC Files - the most recent one was ARC v2.1 with a Measure date of 3-13-09.

I opened the file with ARC Version 3.0.2 and Uploaded it.


----------



## MStanic

Anybody running 2.13g without issue on the D2v. I'm looking at updating from 2.10 but just want to make sure it's not going to blow up my D2v.


Here is a note from their readme on this version, does it literally take 30-45 min?


NOTE: This version will re-program video processing. This takes 30-45 minutes and resets video processor settings. Settings in your video processing setup should survive this update, but record them before running the update in case of failed installation.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anybody running 2.13g without issue on the D2v. I'm looking at updating from 2.10 but just want to make sure it's not going to blow up my D2v.
> 
> 
> Here is a note from their readme on this version, does it literally take 30-45 min?
> 
> 
> NOTE: This version will re-program video processing. This takes 30-45 minutes and resets video processor settings. Settings in your video processing setup should survive this update, but record them before running the update in case of failed installation.



It can take that long due to the video files. It seems to repeat itself during this process but ignore and wait for it to finish.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21850895
> 
> 
> Anybody running 2.13g without issue on the D2v. I'm looking at updating from 2.10 but just want to make sure it's not going to blow up my D2v.
> 
> 
> Here is a note from their readme on this version, does it literally take 30-45 min?
> 
> 
> NOTE: This version will re-program video processing. This takes 30-45 minutes and resets video processor settings. Settings in your video processing setup should survive this update, but record them before running the update in case of failed installation.



Yes. This is the long-style install because the video board is getting a complete reprogramming. They used to do that in on long pass but that wasn't reliable enough. So now they do it and quite a few shorter transfers, with verification. It takes longer, but it is reliable. It looks a bit odd while it is doing it, because the progress bar gives the appearance that it is stuck in a loop retrying the transfer.


Normally the video board doesn't get a complete reprogramming and the install takes more like 15 minutes.


In my case I found the Video Source Adjust settings did survive the install (i.e., they were restored as expected when I Reloaded Saved User Settings after completing the install), so the warning I think is just them being extra cautious.


It's good to have a record of your settings anyway. If the install fails (pretty rare), you may need to run the Flash Eraser to reset the hardware for a re-install, and that WILL delete your personal settings.


In the ARC install kit you will find a Utilities folder. Settings Backup Utility will save and restore all your Setup menu settings in a PC file. Live Video Settings Editor does not work for EVERYTHING with the current and new firmware, but it CAN be used to save and restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings in a PC file. Power UP the Anthem first, and THEN launch Live Video Settings Editor. Once it connects, click on the Get button to load the Video Source Adjust menu settings into the PC from the Anthem, and then click on Save to write them to a PC file. Alternatively use the File menu > Open to Open an existing file of saved settings on the PC, and then click on Load to upload those settings into Video Source Adjust on the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21847382
> 
> 
> While it's probably not easy to reposition the center channel, I recommend doing something about the sub instead. It's almost tanking at 125 Hz which means rolloff is starting at 50-60 Hz. Fix the 125 Hz trough by repositioning and response will be much better up to where it counts, around 100 Hz. Just ask Jayray.



Thanks Nick!


Actually I can move the Center speaker easily and I tried that. There is no TV or equipment rack anywhere near it. No matter how far from the wall it still had the wonky response. I wonder if it is too close to the floor (18") and i need to get a taller stand? It is hard to find proper center speaker stands in town.


As for the sub I have two easy placement options - between the Left and Center channels or left corner of the room. In either case it is close to the Left speaker. It is a large cube with two side-firing 12" woofers (Mirage bi-polar) so I put it in the corner diagonally so that neither woofer is barking directly into a wall. The response on quick-measure was even worse in the other position. I suppose I could try along the left side wall with a longer cable. Given that it is side firing that should give it more room to breathe.


----------



## MStanic

Can someone please link the steps to running ARC. I am searching the thread but no luck yet. I am sure Bob has outlined this step by step procedure. I am going to install 2.13g and then I want to start ARC from scratch. What do I do after the firmware update is complete.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21850748
> 
> 
> OMG - Find the Old ARC files - that was two generations of computers
> 
> ago. I might have the oldest D2 - I was running XP then and later Vista
> 
> and Now Windows 7. I don't change OS - I change Computers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will search my files - *DO THEY HAVE ARC* in the Name?
> 
> 
> Today I will try OLDER ARC software. I doubt it is Windows 7.
> 
> 
> I HONESTLY believe it might be the *MIC* - It was like this *DAY-ONE*.
> 
> 
> I’ll call Andrew during the week.
> 
> 
> I found the OLD ARC Files - the most recent one was ARC v2.1 with a Measure date of 3-13-09.
> 
> I opened the file with ARC Version 3.0.2 and Uploaded it.



Some things to try while waiting for Monday to get here:


First, when testing this, tell ARC you only have LF/RF and Sub wired. That will make it get around to the Sub test tone faster, rather than waiting through all the speakers.


-----------------------------------------


Second, since this is the first time you have used ARC on this computer, check in Windows Hard Drive > Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction. In there you should find the ARC application itself, and you should ALSO find your pair of licensing/calibration files -- the two files with names made up of numbers (the serial number of your D2 and the serial number of your ARC mic). If either file is missing, you will find them on your original ARC install CD or on whatever prior computer you were using with ARC. I suppose its possible that if the mic calibration file is missing, ARC can't properly interpret bass from your mic.


-----------------------------------------------


Third, since Windows moves in mysterious ways, it wouldn't hurt to try a fresh re-install of ARC:


1) Download a fresh copy of the ARC 3.0.2 install kit and unzip it.


2) Go into Windows Add/Remove Programs and Remove Anthem Room Correction. If you find more than one of them in there, remove all of them.


3) Reboot your Windows PC. Do not skip this step.


4) Go into the downloaded ARC install kit and find the Setup.Exe program (the installer itself). Now load your original ARC install CD. If its installer starts up automatically just quit out of it. WARNING: Do NOT install using the installer on your original ARC install CD. Now dive into the CD and find the Setup.Exe program on the CD. In that same folder you will find your pair of ARC licensing/calibration files.


5) Pause for a moment and verify that the two file you have found do indeed have names which match the actual serial number of your D2 and the serial number of your ARC mic. If there is a mismatch -- perhaps because you got a new part due to service -- you will need to get the proper pair of files from Anthem tech support on Monday. They can email them to you.


6) Copy both files from the CD to the same place where the Setup.Exe program is found in the downloaded install kit. You can now eject the CD, you are done with it.


7) Run Setup.Exe from the downloaded install kit. It will install ARC V3.0.2 and also copy your pair of files where they need to be.


8) Reboot the computer one more time. Do not skip this step.


Now check to see if ARC is happier with your subwoofer.


----------------------------------------------------------------


Fourth, try the exercise for resetting Subwoofer level before running ARC. Start by making sure the Speaker Configuration is set for "1 Sub". When using ARC you must set "1 Sub" even if you have more than one. Then:


1) In Setup > Level Calibration, zero out *ALL* The lines


2) In the first line, set test mode to Manual


3) Scroll down one line to Test/Noise Level. The test tone should be coming from your Left Front speaker. Adjust that Test/Noise Level line to yield 75dB SPL as measured using your SPL meter at ARC mic position #1.


4) Scroll down to either subwoofer line. The test tone should be coming from your combined system of subwoofers. Leave that line at 0dB. Check to see if the combined SPL from your system of subwoofers is roughly 75dB SPL measured from the same spot as above. If not you should adjust the output of your subwoofers using their own controls -- leave the subwoofer line in Level Calibration at 0dB. I'm sure you have your preferred method of doing this which leaves all your subs balanced with respect to each other.


Now try ARC setup again.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DRHANKZ,

Here's a support document from Anthem which walks you through a belt-and-suspenders approach to making SURE nothing in the Audio setup of your Windows 7 PC is conflicting with what ARC needs to use the ARC mic properly.


Most folks do NOT need to go through these steps to use ARC on Windows 7, but it's one more thing you can try while waiting for Monday.


This is a PDF file.

--Bob

 

Win 7 ARC Setup.pdf 485.87890625k . file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21851383
> 
> 
> Can someone please link the steps to running ARC. I am searching the thread but no luck yet. I am sure Bob has outlined this step by step procedure. I am going to install 2.13g and then I want to start ARC from scratch. What do I do after the firmware update is complete.



Odds are you won't have to do anything special if you were happy with your prior ARC setup.


You are supposed to Reload Factory Defaults prior to doing a firmware install. So Save User Settings, Reload Factory Defaults, do the firmware install, and then Reload Saved User Settings. This will have the effect of restoring all the basic stuff you used with your last ARC run. So that means you should be good to go doing a new ARC run without any other preliminaries.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21850576
> 
> 
> At Source Setup, should Dolby Volume and Dolby Volume Level be set to ON or OFF. All of my sources are set as follows:
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume ON
> 
> Dolby Volume Level 9
> 
> 
> Does ARC set these or not and what should they be set to?
> 
> 
> Also, are there any other settings that ARC does or does not effect which should be set to ON or OFF or adjusted manually (before or after ARC is run) in order to achieve optimal sound.
> 
> 
> Finally, I wish to rerun ARC so what are the steps again to reset (do I actually do a factory default reset on the D2v) the current values. Are the test tones still being calibrated to 75db and the speaker distances being set manually or do we let ARC take care of this?
> 
> 
> I also have the PBK kit, so should I run it first before ARC in order to set my sub again?



ARC does not touch the Dolby Volume settings. When the firmware came out that launched Dolby Volume it was set ON by default. The current firmware sets it OFF by Factory Default, but since your settings will carry over from the prior firmware you wouldn't know that unless you Reset Factory Defaults.


My strong recommendation is that you turn Dolby Volume OFF for ALL your Sources, at least until you are quite happy with your new setup. Then you can experiment with it if you want (I don't use it at all). With Dolby Volume OFF the other Dolby Volume settings are ignored. With Dolby Volume ON for any Source, I recommend you use a much lower setting for the Dolby Volume Leveling (which acts to reduce volume swings). Try 3 or 5.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21850286
> 
> 
> I can understand that. No one had complained to Classe, either. Until I brought it up, that is. It took me a year to drill down and find this issue in my current setup. Some things never made sense, like why the stereo mix on a given SACD sounded spectrally correct (like most CDs), while the 5.1 mix was so different (muddy bass). Could the engineers be ignoring all this bass muck?
> 
> 
> When I changed my LFE filter from 200 Hz to 80 Hz, it all snapped into place: the 5.1 spectral balance matched the stereo mix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My suspicion is that the mix engineers were undoubtedly listening to their full range monitors plus a subwoofer just for the LFE, which was probably limited to 80 Hz. The LFE they heard was thus limited to 80 Hz but the signal they printed was not filtered the same way. 200 Hz? How about 120 Hz? Nope, it was better but not sufficient.
> 
> 
> This is just one example to illustrate that even if people hear the unintended result, it might not automatically trigger a suspicion about the LFE bandwidth. And with movies it's even less obvious because of the artificial nature of LFE content. 5.1 music was the tip-off for me, and the benefits that came along for TV audio, and to a lesser extent for movies, were icing on the cake.
> 
> 
> Playing a lot of content with an adjustable LFE filter helps one develop a feel for how it affects the overall result -- which indeed varies depending on the type of source and how it was prepared.



Yet another reason why lots of studios author SACD without putting ANY content in the LFE channel.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21851472
> 
> 
> Yet another reason why lots of studios author SACD without putting ANY content in the LFE channel.



If only that were the universal way! But why do they use LFE? Because consumers complained when they "only" got 5.0 content.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21851417
> 
> 
> DRHANKZ,
> 
> Here's a support document from Anthem which walks you through a belt-and-suspenders approach to making SURE nothing in the Audio setup of your Windows 7 PC is conflicting with what ARC needs to use the ARC mic properly.
> 
> 
> Most folks do NOT need to go through these steps to use ARC on Windows 7, but it's one more thing you can try while waiting for Monday.
> 
> 
> This is a PDF file.
> 
> --Bob



ARC was a FRESH install on this computer - this week.


I did the OLD Install first to get MIC License and then upgraded to 3.0.2.


THANKS - I'll review the PDF but it should FAIL on the 1st speaker and

not the 8th speaker - the SUB.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21851607
> 
> 
> ARC was a FRESH install on this computer - this week.
> 
> 
> I did the OLD Install first to get MIC License and then upgraded to 3.0.2.
> 
> 
> THANKS - I'll review the PDF but it should FAIL on the 1st speaker and
> 
> not the 8th speaker - the SUB.



OK, that may be your problem. The old installer is not compatible with Windows 7. It may have left something behind that the new install didn't fully replace.


Follow the procedure I detailed above to re-install 3.0.2 after first Removing whatever ARCishness is currently on your Windows 7 PC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DRHANKZ,

If the Remove and re-Install doesn't fix it, another thing to try is to look at what ARC is seeing from the Sub using the Quick Measure tool (Tools menu). That will show you in real time what the mic is actually presenting to the ARC app while the Sub is playing.


If the mic is failing in bass frequencies, that should be pretty obvious.


There will be several sweep passes of the Sub to initialize things and then the chart will update in real time. It should look like the raw, uncorrected, Measured curve for the Sub from that mic location.


Note: Quick Measure re-initializes the D2 settings just as is done prior to an ARC Measurement. So you will need to re-Upload your old solution again, if you can't get a new solution generated and Uploaded.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21851666
> 
> 
> DRHANKZ,
> 
> If the Remove and re-Install doesn't fix it, another thing to try is to look at what ARC is seeing from the Sub using the Quick Measure tool (Tools menu). That will show you in real time what the mic is actually presenting to the ARC app while the Sub is playing.
> 
> 
> If the mic is failing in bass frequencies, that should be pretty obvious.
> 
> 
> There will be several sweep passes of the Sub to initialize things and then the chart will update in real time. It should look like the raw, uncorrected, Measured curve for the Sub from that mic location.
> 
> 
> Note: Quick Measure re-initializes the D2 settings just as is done prior to an ARC Measurement. So you will need to re-Upload your old solution again, if you can't get a new solution generated and Uploaded.
> 
> --Bob



HOW do you do that - I only get the Welcome Screen from ARC

with the START Button.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21851682
> 
> 
> HOW do you do that - I only get the Welcome Screen from ARC
> 
> with the START Button.



By default ARC uses the Automatic mode.


On that Welcome screen, select the alternate mode whatever it is called -- Manual mode as I recall -- and that will bring up the view you normally use to see the charts -- along with the menu bar across the top and the Measure / Targets / Calculate / Upload buttons under that. Quick Measure is in the Tools menu in the menu bar.


Try Quick Measure on a main speaker first so you see how it it supposed to work, and then try it on the Sub.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21850286
> 
> 
> I can understand that. No one had complained to Classe, either. Until I brought it up, that is. It took me a year to drill down and find this issue in my current setup. Some things never made sense, like why the stereo mix on a given SACD sounded spectrally correct (like most CDs), while the 5.1 mix was so different (muddy bass). Could the engineers be ignoring all this bass muck?
> 
> 
> When I changed my LFE filter from 200 Hz to 80 Hz, it all snapped into place: the 5.1 spectral balance matched the stereo mix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My suspicion is that the mix engineers were undoubtedly listening to their full range monitors plus a subwoofer just for the LFE, which was probably limited to 80 Hz. The LFE they heard was thus limited to 80 Hz but the signal they printed was not filtered the same way. 200 Hz? How about 120 Hz? Nope, it was better but not sufficient.
> 
> 
> This is just one example to illustrate that even if people hear the unintended result, it might not automatically trigger a suspicion about the LFE bandwidth. And with movies it's even less obvious because of the artificial nature of LFE content. 5.1 music was the tip-off for me, and the benefits that came along for TV audio, and to a lesser extent for movies, were icing on the cake.
> 
> 
> Playing a lot of content with an adjustable LFE filter helps one develop a feel for how it affects the overall result -- which indeed varies depending on the type of source and how it was prepared.



This reminds me of a story I heard from the head Tech guy at Velodyne some time back. Back when their DD series Ultra 2 (i.e., goes very deep) subs were new, they got a bunch of complaints that certain SACDs were causing the subs to go into thermal protect. Actually it took a while to figure out these particular SACDs were the cause, but I'll cut out that part of the story.


Anyway, what they discovered is that these SACDs -- all from the same studio -- had HUMONGOUS 16Hz in the LFE channel. Apparently the studio had a vibration source that was getting picked up during the recording and the engineers never realized it because the monitor subs they were using were incapable of going that deep.


The moral of the story of course is don't play crappy content.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21851708
> 
> 
> Try Quick Measure on a main speaker first so you see how it it supposed to work, and then try it on the Sub.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the HELP - I have attached two channels.


I don't see any reason the SUB is failing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21851833
> 
> 
> Thanks for the HELP - I have attached two channels.
> 
> 
> I don't see any reason the SUB is failing.



Is this *AFTER* you did the Remove and re-Install? Have you tried doing a normal ARC Measurement after that?


If you haven't done the Remove and re-Install you really need to do that. The old installer on your original ARC install CD for the D2 is not designed for Windows 7. Among other things, it is most likely the old version that puts the licensing/calibration files in the wrong location for use with the new ARC app.


Anyway, there's certainly no indication that ARC on Windows 7 is having trouble with the mic or that the mic is failing. The only thing that stands out is that the sub is about 20dB too hot at 40Hz, and about 10dB too hot on average -- but I would think both of those were within a range ARC could handle.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21851859
> 
> 
> Is this *AFTER* you did the Remove and re-Install? Have you tried doing a normal ARC Measurement after that?
> 
> 
> If you haven't done the Remove and re-Install you really need to do that. The old installer on your original ARC install CD for the D2 is not designed for Windows 7. Among other things, it most likely is the old version that puts the licensing/calibration files in the wrong location for use with the new ARC app.
> 
> 
> Anyway, there's certainly no indication that ARC on Windows 7 is having trouble with the mic or that the mic is failing. The only thing that stands out is that the sub is about 20dB too hot at 50Hz, and about 10dB too hot on average -- but I would think both of those were within a range ARC could handle.
> 
> --Bob



The error message keeps saying turn UP the Sub.


I will Strip out ARC - where to the license files go?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21851871
> 
> 
> The error message keeps saying turn UP the Sub.
> 
> 
> I will Strip out ARC - where to the license files go?



They changed the name of the ARC install directory when the ARC upgrade came out for the AVM 50. It used to be a D2 related name of some sort (which of course no longer made sense at that point) and now its just Anthem Room Correction.


Anyway, the important thing is to go into Windows Add/Remove programs and Remove ANY and ALL Anthem Room Correction programs you find listed there. You may very will find two. If so, Remove both of them.


Then reboot, then re-install -- using JUST the downloaded version -- after moving the two license/calibration files into the same place as the downloaded installer program. (See the details in my post above.)


Then reboot again.


-------------------------------------------


It wouldn't surprise me if the error here is that the ARC error message is incorrect, and that it should be telling you to lower the Subwoofer volume. But do the Remove and re-Install first.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bob pariseau* /forum/post/21851889
> 
> 
> but do the remove and re-install first.
> 
> --bob



doing it now


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21850895
> 
> *Anybody running 2.13g without issue on the D2v. I'm looking at updating from 2.10 but just want to make sure it's not going to blow up my D2v.*
> 
> Here is a note from their readme on this version, does it literally take 30-45 min?
> 
> 
> NOTE: This version will re-program video processing. This takes 30-45 minutes and resets video processor settings. Settings in your video processing setup should survive this update, but record them before running the update in case of failed installation.



MStanic asked a question that wasn't answered. I, too, would like to know how stable this version is. What are the main advantages over the released v2.10?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds* /forum/post/21850189
> 
> 
> I also have full-range dipoles and ARC produces no imaging anomalies.



Thanks Steve just curious, what dipoles do you have?


----------



## drhankz

Hi Bob


I have done everything you suggested.


1) I removed all ARC Software


2) Rebooted


3) Did a Fresh Install from the Anthem site of ARC 3.0.2


4) Manually installed MIC License Files.


5) Rebooted


6) Manually set MIC Record parameters as in Windows 7 PDF


7) Manually set all levels to 75db


8) Killed my LOW Freq SUBS and used Normal Sub at 75db


9) Tried the Measure operation - same error failure 0x04


10) Did a Quick Measure - files attached.


11) Reloaded my last ARC file from 2009.

*I GIVE UP*


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Well I've no idea why this should be so -- given the preliminary adjustment steps you took -- but Quick Measure still shows your sub as too hot.


If you've got the energy for one last try, lower your Sub's volume by something in the range -15dB to -20dB from where it is now and check with Quick Measure that this really does bring the Sub down into the same range as Left Front. And if so, do a Measurement pass with it set that way.


ETA: You are doing the preliminary Sub volume setting with your SPL meter, right? When was the last time you put a fresh battery in it?

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21852128
> 
> 
> ^ Well I've no idea why this should be so -- given the preliminary adjustment steps you took -- but Quick Measure still shows your sub as too hot.
> 
> 
> If you've got the energy for one last try, lower your Sub's volume by something in the range -15dB to -20dB from where it is now and check with Quick Measure that this really does bring the Sub down into the same range as Left Front. And if so, do a Measurement pass with it set that way.
> 
> --Bob



I am OUT of Energy Until I talk to Andrew.


THANKS AGAIN for your Patience


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Hah! I bet you post on this again before Monday.










(Note the comment I added above about the meter battery.)

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

Okay, saved user settings, reset unit to factory default, completed firmware update okay to latest beta level and restored settings. All seems okay. However, it does not make sense that I can just run ARC on top of ARC settings. Kind of like installing the same OS over itself again, messy. Don't I need to zero out speaker levels at least and probably recalibrate to 75 db and then rerun ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21852350
> 
> 
> Okay, saved user settings, reset unit to factory default, completed firmware update okay to latest beta level and restored settings. All seems okay. However, it does not make sense that I can just run ARC on top of ARC settings. Kind of like installing the same OS over itself again, messy. Don't I need to zero out speaker levels at least and probably recalibrate to 75 db and then rerun ARC?



Nope. No worries. ARC does the necessary Setup menu changes for you prior to starting the Measurement pass, so that it hears the necessary raw (uncorrected) audio. These changes are, of course, replaced by what you Upload as the last step of the ARC setup process. All that ARC relies on is your current Speaker Configuration (i.e., which speakers are enabled) and the Test Level line in Setup > Level Calibration, and all that is in place because you reloaded your prior settings after the firmware install. And of course it also relies on the current setting of the Volume knob on your Sub, but that hasn't changed either.

--Bob


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21852048
> 
> 
> Thanks Steve just curious, what dipoles do you have?



The ones in my signature, modified DIY Linkwitz Orions.


Here's the commercial version:

http://www.theorionspeakers.com/ 


ARC works just fine with them. Audyssey was not so successful.


----------



## MStanic

With Dolby Volume set to OFF, my system is super loud in comparison to when it was set to ON. I have to turn the volume knob down to practically -40 to -50 so it's not so loud. Is this normal?


Previously, I had it set to ON with the level at 9 for every source. I guess this was the default for each source in 2.10. I'm on firmware 2.13g now.


----------



## MStanic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21852762
> 
> 
> With Dolby Volume set to OFF, my system is super loud in comparison to when it was set to ON. I have to turn the volume knob down to practically -40 to -50 so it's not so loud. Is this normal?
> 
> 
> Previously, I had it set to ON with the level at 9 for every source. I guess this was the default for each source in 2.10. I'm on firmware 2.13g now.



Went back to my satellite tv input and it seems normal. The loudness seems to be on the Panny 310 where I am sending one HDMI to the projector (Main) from the Panny and the other (Sub) to the D2v. This should have no effect on the audio right? I assume that when I watch a 2D video the split still needs to happen as it does with 3D whereby the video is sent from the Panny to the Projector (bypassing the D2v) and the audio is from the Panny to the D2v. Anybody have this player/setup that might be able to comment please.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21851335
> 
> 
> Actually I can move the Center speaker easily and I tried that. There is no TV or equipment rack anywhere near it. No matter how far from the wall it still had the wonky response. I wonder if it is too close to the floor (18") and i need to get a taller stand? It is hard to find proper center speaker stands in town.



Before bringing in another stand would you be able to prop up the speaker by whichever sturdy means lying around the house to the maximum height that might be permanent and run a measurement to see what happens?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21850286
> 
> 
> When I changed my LFE filter from 200 Hz to 80 Hz, it all snapped into place: the 5.1 spectral balance matched the stereo mix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My suspicion is that the mix engineers were undoubtedly listening to their full range monitors plus a subwoofer just for the LFE, which was probably limited to 80 Hz. The LFE they heard was thus limited to 80 Hz but the signal they printed was not filtered the same way. 200 Hz? How about 120 Hz? Nope, it was better but not sufficient.



That makes me wonder how many broken movie soundtracks there are, and why enabling the sub's built-in crossover as I mentioned earlier wouldn't have similar enough result. 160 is about as high as I would set it for any reason though it can be set quite a bit lower depending on the redirected crossover without unwanted side effects.


This LFE/sub confusion actually goes back to Brian Florian's review of the AVM 20, where the same questions arose after which parts this article resulted:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...rs-9-2002.html 


To cross over before summing vs the other way around... we've been having that discussion since the beginning and the choice of DSP plays a central role in this even though we don't use the built-in algorithms for anything but decoding (in the AVM/D at least, not so much in the MRX). There are always tradeoffs. Being less than ideal in one area doesn't mean it's broken, and fixing one thing can break another. Always be careful what you wish for!


Regardless, the boom channel was supposed to be disposable where a subwoofer is not present, supposed to be limited to 120 Hz, and I've always agreed that the LFE channel has no place in music unless special effects such the Telarc cannon -- in all of one recording -- are present. Have movie soundtrack production standards really deteriorated to the joke that run of the mill music "engineering" became a long time ago? Sure there will always be something falling through cracks for whatever bad reason but how widespread is this? How hard is it to follow the movie surround sound production guidelines?


If the studio is crossing over the sub at 80 Hz as you suspect (and I don't doubt), shouldn't everyone else?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21851815
> 
> 
> The moral of the story of course is don't play crappy content.



Exactly! I don't mean anything like stop listening to great music just because it was recorded in 78 rpm, but only when something is unacceptable because it's not according to the standards of its day by a long shot. Look at the fuss that just one dissolve is causing:

http://www.hometheaterforum.com/t/31...ory-in-blu-ray 


We're always on the lookout for demo material and once in a blue moon we also find something that's broken. I can think of one fairly recent example of something with a crazy LFE channel. Wouldn't it be worthwhile to fix the movie and re-release it if all its other aspects are spectacular? I can't imagine going back to 80 Hz global crossovers for the sake of crappy content, wherever it may be. If 80 Hz is right for LFE to prevent directionality and focus issues, it would also be right for redirected bass because the sub doesn't know or care which channel the content is coming from.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21853219
> 
> 
> That makes me wonder how many broken movie soundtracks there are



Very few are broken if you ask me. But it’s not so black and white as being broken or not. Not all is perfection even for movies.



> Quote:
> Regardless, the boom channel was...supposed to be limited to 120 Hz.



Yes. So if a content maker wanted to create an LFE signal that met this requirement, using his mixing console, what filter order and corner frequency would he use? A typical 120 Hz filter will not meet this requirement because filters have slopes. As shown in the graph, a 120 Hz 4th order LPF (green) is only down 6 dB at 120 Hz. The 80 Hz filter is down 14 dB (red) -- better, but still not optimal.












> Quote:
> Have movie soundtrack production standards really deteriorated to the joke that run of the mill music "engineering" became a long time ago? Sure there will always be something falling through cracks for whatever bad reason but how widespread is this? How hard is it to follow the movie surround sound production guidelines?



It depends on how the guidelines are interpreted. Here’s what the DD Encoding manual says:


> Quote:
> The LFE Lowpass Filter parameter can be used to activate a 120 Hz low-pass filter applied to the LFE input channel. If the digital signal fed to the LFE input *does not contain information above 120 Hz*, this filter can be disabled.



The 8th-order 120 Hz elliptic (blue) certainly meets the requirement, but it is not intended to shape the audible spectrum, just to limit the extent to avoid aliasing and minimize bitrate. The "sound" of a brickwall filter is rather odd when it is in the audible passband. Ideally the LFE spectrum would be defined by the 80 Hz plus the elliptic.



> Quote:
> If the studio is crossing over the sub at 80 Hz as you suspect (and I don't doubt), shouldn't everyone else?



Just to be clear, I was describing an LFE sub limited to 80 Hz. No crossovers. And yes. Ideally LFE should be *filtered* at 80 Hz (and limited to 120 Hz), and the filter should be in the signal path being recorded, not in the monitor path.


Let me mention something else. The heyday of theatrical 5.1 and LFE really came with the advent of digital film sound, even though they originated with 70mm mag. Not many people realize it but DTS theatrical was a 5.0 signal path, with the LFE spliced into the surrounds. The cinema processor split the signals with 80 Hz filters: HP to the surrounds; LP to the subs. This forced movies to be monitored with LFE limited to 80 Hz so that the results would be consistent on the stages and in theaters with any of the digital formats. But even then the recorded LFE tracks were not uniformly confined to 80 Hz. This became rather apparent at home when comparing a DTS track to the same soundtrack on DD (rare as that was). The "deeper, tighter" DTS bass was easily replicated by filtering the DD LFE to 80 Hz. Should we hear what the mixers heard and what was played in the cinemas, or what was recorded in the track?


So as you can see there are differing practices involved, and the results vary as a result. Depending on who you ask, the question of whether it is correct to reproduce everything delivered in the LFE channel has different answers. But unless the answer is "yes, always" then some sort of LFE filter option is needed, even when when ARC is running.


----------



## MStanic

************************************************************ ******


1) In Setup > Level Calibration, zero out *ALL* The lines


2) In the first line, set test mode to Manual


3) Scroll down one line to Test/Noise Level. The test tone should be coming from your Left Front speaker. Adjust that Test/Noise Level line to yield 75dB SPL as measured using your SPL meter at ARC mic position #1.


4) Scroll down to either subwoofer line. The test tone should be coming from your combined system of subwoofers. Leave that line at 0dB. Check to see if the combined SPL from your system of subwoofers is roughly 75dB SPL measured from the same spot as above. If not you should adjust the output of your subwoofers using their own controls -- leave the subwoofer line in Level Calibration at 0dB. I'm sure you have your preferred method of doing this which leaves all your subs balanced with respect to each other.

************************************************************ ****


With respect to the quote above, when I measure 75db at the "Test/Noise Level" line for the Left Front speaker, I set this to 75db. Then, do the rest of the speakers matter as far as getting them to 75db besides the sub. The sub is at 75db when I set the Front Left but the remaining speakers are not all at 75db. They are close at between 73 to 76. Do I leave those values, for the remaining speakers at 0 and let ARC do it's thing or do I also line adjust each speaker to 75db? Note, I have set my speaker distances prior to doing this part.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21854619
> 
> 
> ************************************************************ ******
> 
> 
> 1) In Setup > Level Calibration, zero out *ALL* The lines
> 
> 
> 2) In the first line, set test mode to Manual
> 
> 
> 3) Scroll down one line to Test/Noise Level. The test tone should be coming from your Left Front speaker. Adjust that Test/Noise Level line to yield 75dB SPL as measured using your SPL meter at ARC mic position #1.
> 
> 
> 4) Scroll down to either subwoofer line. The test tone should be coming from your combined system of subwoofers. Leave that line at 0dB. Check to see if the combined SPL from your system of subwoofers is roughly 75dB SPL measured from the same spot as above. If not you should adjust the output of your subwoofers using their own controls -- leave the subwoofer line in Level Calibration at 0dB. I'm sure you have your preferred method of doing this which leaves all your subs balanced with respect to each other.
> 
> ************************************************************ ****
> 
> 
> With respect to the quote above, when I measure 75db at the "Test/Noise Level" line for the Left Front speaker, I set this to 75db. Then, do the rest of the speakers matter as far as getting them to 75db besides the sub. The sub is at 75db when I set the Front Left but the remaining speakers are not all at 75db. They are close at between 73 to 76. Do I leave those values, for the remaining speakers at 0 and let ARC do it's thing or do I also line adjust each speaker to 75db? Note, I have set my speaker distances prior to doing this part.



You can leave the values, for the remaining speakers, at 0. Just setting the LF to 75db and the sub to 75db is good. Once you have set them to 75db, you can run ARC, and ARC will take care of things from there.


----------



## MStanic

Did that ninja12.


ARC is very picky software. On my Dell laptop, which I ran ARC with no problem before and same 3.0.2 version, it would not even kick off. It would get to the point where it would recognize the unit and turn it on but not come up with the prompt to have the mic at position #1 to and hit OK to start the measuring sequence.


Went to my Macbook Pro, running Windows 7 bootcamp, and it went okay there as it has before as well.


Funny thing, good that I have two laptops though. I wish ARC would have some error logging so that we can send stuff to Anthem when it seizes up or goes into a loop (I've had ARC just stop on a random speaker, regardless of the listening position and never move onto the next speaker because it would not stop emitting the test tone). I wrote to Anthem on that but they never did get back to me with a solution or any thoughts as to what might be causing this.


On the run of ARC I just did, an error came up with to the effect of too much noise detected at surround right and would I like to repeat the test tones to which I said YES and it continued okay from there. I'm always leary, however, when ARC does not complete without error. Lately, I find I just hate running ARC because it's not very reliable and when errors happen it's a very tedious and time consuming process.


----------



## MStanic

Attached are my latest ARC results, what do you guys think?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21854830
> 
> 
> Attached are my latest ARC results, what do you guys think?



Your RF has a dip that ARC couldn't fully correct; but, it's within 3db of full correction so I wouldn't worry to much about it. Other than that, your charts look very good. How does it sound to you?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Attached are my latest ARC results, what do you guys think?



The good news is you won't have to run ARC

again







Charts look very good.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21854916
> 
> 
> Your RF has a dip that ARC couldn't fully correct; but, it's within 3db of full correction so I wouldn't worry to much about it. Other than that, your charts look very good. How does it sound to you?



He could lower Room Gain a bit to help with that. Which would just be a re-Calculate and re-Upload. No need to re-Measure.

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

Thanks folks for all the help. Yah, it sounds pretty amazing.


On the video side, I have my Video 1 and Video 2 settings as follows:


S-Video OSD: NTSC

Preferred: HDMI

Resln: 1920 x 1080 p24 (Video 2 is set to 1920 x 1080 p60)

Color Space: HDTV

Data: YCbCr 4:4:4

Output: 12 bit

Letterbox: Black

Sync: Normal

Component 2 Out: Passthru


Exact same settings for Video 2 save p60 as shown above.


I use Video 1 (p24) for my Sony BDP-780. I also used it for my Panny BDT-310 but it's probably a mute point/setting for it as I have the main out of the Panny going to the projector. I also use Video 1 for my PS3.


I use Video 2 (p60) for my Sat TV and Apple TV.


What's the general rule of thumb for p60 vs p24 usage based on my devices for example? Can I use p24 for iTV as I have the new iTV that does 1080p now.


On my Sony 780, just in the menu screens of the player, I notice lag/ghosting when moving from left to right of the menu screens but does not seem to happen when I go up and down.


Playback looks amazing but every now and then I get HDMI handshake issues. Do I have these settings, for the most part, correct? If it helps, I am using an Epson 6010 onto a Firehawk G3 (90 diagnonal).


Guess I'm bored today thus really nerding it out with my D2v


----------



## MStanic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21852027
> 
> 
> MStanic asked a question that wasn't answered. I, too, would like to know how stable this version is. What are the main advantages over the released v2.10?



Since going to 2.13g, I've had about 3 or 4 full/complete audio dropouts where I've had to turn off/on my D2v in order to get audio back. I've experienced these dropout only when changing sources or leaving the unit idle with no audio playing and then coming back to use it. I have not experienced an audio dropout or hiccup, however, while the unit is playing. Still, I never experienced so many audio dropouts (in such a short time) with version 2.10. I don't understand why Anthem has not released a non beta of > 2.10; particularly, when there are fixes to be addressed.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21852064
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> 9) Tried the Measure operation - same error failure 0x04
> 
> *I GIVE UP*



It has been a while that I did not run arc and today I ran ARC and I also got the error 0x4.


I think that 0x4 is when it could not hear anything from the 4th speaker in the sequence. I have a 4.1 config (no center) and it was doing Fron-Left, Front-Right, Surround-Left, and nothing.


After having check all cabling, and everything was connected correctly. Then I figured that I forgot to uncheck "Rear" in ARC, so it was just trying measure Rear{L or R} which I don't have.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21855572
> 
> 
> Since going to 2.13g, I've had about 3 or 4 full/complete audio dropouts where I've had to turn off/on my D2v in order to get audio back. I've experienced these dropout only when changing sources or leaving the unit idle with no audio playing and then coming back to use it. I have not experienced an audio dropout or hiccup, however, while the unit is playing. Still, I never experienced so many audio dropouts (in such a short time) with version 2.10. I don't understand why Anthem has not released a non beta of > 2.10; particularly, when there are fixes to be addressed.



Thanks Mstanic ... i guess i'm suprised, despite the many that have installed beta FW in the past, that no one else here contributed to answer your own question for i suspect many would like to know the answer as well. Sad indeed ... and thanks again for taking the time to answer(your very own question!).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/21855839
> 
> 
> It has been a while that I did not run arc and today I ran ARC and I also got the error 0x4.
> 
> 
> I think that 0x4 is when it could not hear anything from the 4th speaker in the sequence. I have a 4.1 config (no center) and it was doing Fron-Left, Front-Right, Surround-Left, and nothing.
> 
> 
> After having check all cabling, and everything was connected correctly. Then I figured that I forgot to uncheck "Rear" in ARC, so it was just trying measure Rear{L or R} which I don't have.



I have 7.1 and it gets the error on the 8th speaker - The Sub.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21853629
> 
> 
> But unless the answer is "yes, always" then some sort of LFE filter option is needed, even when when ARC is running.



I agree in principle but as mentioned in practice things may not work ideally when redirected channels must be summed with LFE and room correction is to be run on top of it, all with a crossover algorithm created to prevent audible rounding errors plus a room correction system that uses twice the processing power as the industry average for home systems and about as same as pro systems. In an ideal world one fast DSP chip would handle everything with no compromise but that has to wait for another time. The D1 was the first processor to use dual Motorola chips, having been planned with room correction in mind, and for that we had to create a way of making one chip talk to the other. It wasn't as easy as it seemed in the beginning and that alone delayed the project more than could have been anticipated. Later, that end evolved into the current dual core Freescale chips with the HD decoders and 8-channel 192 kHz capability, but the perfect system is still elusive. How bad is this? I say hardly bad at all. Hypothetically, others can claim that they have the ideal system but frankly I'll believe that when I see it and wouldn't give up ARC for anything else on the market today. (Yes that's obviously biased even though I just work here, but just try to pry it away...).


So when these cards are dealt, the lesser of two evils has to be decided on. Again, engineering is about finding the best tradeoffs, and there will always be tradeoffs. To filter LFE for the sake of the odd soundtrack that could use it, or do as was done to avoid taxing other things? Some time ago I sampled the LFE output of several big ticket movies, running them through a spectrum analyzer to see what the upper bandwidth limit was (the opposite of what owners of big subs look for), and while there was plenty up to 120 Hz, I didn't see anything beyond that. Not to say it doesn't exist, just that it's usually in hiding.


So in the end we picked our poison and what's done is done because it's impossible to please everyone and everything, and more importantly because as you and I agree cases that could have used the other option are far from being great in number. Now this makes me wonder, what's a good and practical reason to disable the encoder's 120 Hz filter anyhow? That's even if the LFE track really has nothing above 120 Hz. Just asking in case anyone reading this knows.


----------



## AVfile

I'm not worried. The highest my sub's LPF goes is 100 Hz.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21855572
> 
> 
> Since going to 2.13g, I've had about 3 or 4 full/complete audio dropouts where I've had to turn off/on my D2v in order to get audio back. I've experienced these dropout only when changing sources or leaving the unit idle with no audio playing and then coming back to use it. I have not experienced an audio dropout or hiccup, however, while the unit is playing.



I've not seen any beta tester report that can be connected to this problem description. If you haven't, please send a report to tech support including model numbers of everything involved, connection types, audio formats, video formats, direction of switching when problem appears, how often it happens, and D2v serial number just in case build date has anything to do with it. This is the only way anything can be done about it.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21854808
> 
> 
> I wish ARC would have some error logging so that we can send stuff to Anthem when it seizes up or goes into a loop (I've had ARC just stop on a random speaker, regardless of the listening position and never move onto the next speaker because it would not stop emitting the test tone). I wrote to Anthem on that but they never did get back to me with a solution or any thoughts as to what might be causing this.



That's a communication error where ARC is trying to tell the tone generator to stop sweeping but the command isn't getting through. I've heard of that with USB adapters in the mix, never with straight serial. As for the communication error with tech support (happens sometimes), please just re-send using the online template instead of straight e-mail if more help is needed, or give Piero a call.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21853152
> 
> 
> Before bringing in another stand would you be able to prop up the speaker by whichever sturdy means lying around the house to the maximum height that might be permanent and run a measurement to see what happens?



I did just that... Put some shelving material under the stand to raise it a good 2 inches and also allow me to slide it around while making measurements. The extra height didn't affect the response at all. I could go 2 more inches but the next size up in actual speaker stands that I can buy locally is 22" which would put the top of the speaker too close to the bottom of the screen.


The only thing that helped slightly was moving it about 1" closer to the wall. New graph attached. I think I am stuck with the response of this CENTER speaker in this room (middle of almost square room).


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21847382
> 
> 
> While it's probably not easy to reposition the center channel, I recommend doing something about the sub instead. It's almost tanking at 125 Hz which means rolloff is starting at 50-60 Hz. Fix the 125 Hz trough by repositioning and response will be much better up to where it counts, around 100 Hz. Just ask Jayray.



First attachement is my "convenient" front-left corner position. I found this to give the most low bass using quick measure.


Now, in the second attachment, I managed to move it to the left side about 1/4 of the way into the room. In the third chart it is 1/3 of the way in. I think it lost too much at 50 Hz so I put it back in the corner for now.


Given that the sub's LPF kicks in at 100 Hz, should I push ARC a bit to get as much out of the mains as possible, leaving the sub for the bottom octaves only?


Thanks,

Stefan


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21856399
> 
> 
> I agree in principle but as mentioned in practice things may not work ideally when redirected channels must be summed with LFE and room correction is to be run on top of it, all with a crossover algorithm created to prevent audible rounding errors plus a room correction system that uses twice the processing power as the industry average for home systems and about as same as pro systems.



The room correction will have no knowledge of the LFE filter, be it in the recording studio or in the AV processor, so that's not an issue.



> Quote:
> In an ideal world one fast DSP chip would handle everything with no compromise but that has to wait for another time. The D1 was the first processor to use dual Motorola chips, having been planned with room correction in mind, and for that we had to create a way of making one chip talk to the other.



I have the luxury of talking about these concepts absent the realities of any particular product's design issues.











> Quote:
> To filter LFE for the sake of the odd soundtrack that could use it, or do as was done to avoid taxing other things?



I'm talking about making the overall reproduced sound quality better, not just dealing with odd soundtracks.



> Quote:
> Some time ago I sampled the LFE output of several big ticket movies, running them through a spectrum analyzer to see what the upper bandwidth limit was (the opposite of what owners of big subs look for), and while there was plenty up to 120 Hz, I didn't see anything beyond that.



Yes. that's true. My question is whether that is what we should really be reproducing, wrt the filter diagram I posted. It's a rhetorical question.



> Quote:
> Now this makes me wonder, what's a good and practical reason to disable the encoder's 120 Hz filter anyhow?



Very little. If the content maker has provided sufficient filtering, or otherwise created an LFE signal that is constrained to


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic;2185461914)* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ....... Scroll down to either subwoofer line. The test tone should be coming from your combined system of subwoofers. Leave that line at 0dB. Check to see if the combined SPL from your system of subwoofers is roughly 75dB SPL measured from the same spot as above. If not you should adjust the output of your subwoofers using their own controls -- leave the subwoofer line in Level Calibration at 0dB. .......



While adjusting your sub levels, you might wish to take note that some SPL meters exhibit a low frequency rolloff, resulting in an actually higher level being set. Example: the newer RS SPL meters are down about 5dB at 31.5Hz (digital version 3dB) and almost 10dB at 20Hz (digital 6dB). The older meters exhibit a much lesser rolloff.


This effect is evidenced by a higher post ARC trimming of the sub level as compared to the other channels.


Ben


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21854808
> 
> 
> Funny thing, good that I have two laptops though. I wish ARC would have some error logging so that we can send stuff to Anthem when it seizes up or goes into a loop (I've had ARC just stop on a random speaker, regardless of the listening position and never move onto the next speaker because it would not stop emitting the test tone). I wrote to Anthem on that but they never did get back to me with a solution or any thoughts as to what might be causing this.



When I had this same problem a while back Bob suggested that I turn off my firewall off in my laptop. Just temporarily turning it off during the ARC procedure, that is, not turning it off permanently.

I have not had that problem since.


Tom


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21854830
> 
> 
> Attached are my latest ARC results, what do you guys think?



I am surprised no one mentioned your "Hall Of Fame" worthy bass graph.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21856560
> 
> 
> In the third chart it is 1/3 of the way in. I think it lost too much at 50 Hz so I put it back in the corner for now.



Did you run a full measurement to see what the corrected result is like? That would be worthwhile because this Quick Measure has the widest range of the three. You might end up losing a little at 50 Hz after correction but gain a lot at 100 Hz.


Besides, I wouldn't be remotely as afraid of EQ applying +6 dB at 50 Hz in the sub instead of the center channel, just for the sake of the center channel's driver, in case you're still inclined to change its correction target from 95 Hz to 60 Hz. I still don't recommend that but it all really depends on how loudly you'll ever play things.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21857015
> 
> 
> I have the luxury of talking about these concepts absent the realities of any particular product's design issues.



And we have the luxury of making things the way we want them to be in our own homes! ;-)


I hope everyone understands that taking the audio hobby to the next step of getting into the biz is a bit of an insane choice -- as much as many in it are afraid to admit, I'm sure -- and when planning our flagship systems we start with a dream system concept the same as anyone else would. Then reality sets in and one of my favorite Albert Einstein quotes is the first thing that pops into the mind: In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are not.


So after the rhetorical questions have been pondered while considering everything that has been written and talked about on the sound quality of our gear, especially since ARC came into the mix, I can't see any reason that we should have done things differently, and I realize opinions will vary to no end just as they do on the production end. If there's a standard and it's not always followed, how can there be only one way of doing things on the playback end? Maybe one day we'll have the dream DSP chip that will allow the dream system. Maybe it'll even allow the ditching of the PC in running ARC parameter calculations as practically everyone would like. That's still just a dream with nothing on the DSP horizon to even hint at change.


Gotta go for now, the reality that work and hobby are two different things is setting in on yet another Monday morning.


----------



## drhankz

Hello Bob and Nick.

*Bob was RIGHT* - When ARC says Error 0x04 Turn Up

SUB Volume. It really means *DOWN*.


With Andrew's Help today all is well. I must admit to get

ARC to run - the Sub Tones are wicked low - but then I

am use to strong BASS.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ A low sounding bass sweep makes sense, since much of the sweep range is below the frequencies you can hear anyway.


So did you re-engage your floor bouncers?









--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21859027
> 
> 
> ^ A low sounding bass sweep makes sense, since much of the sweep range is below the frequencies you can hear anyway.
> 
> 
> So did you re-engage your floor bouncers?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



OF COURSE - but not while running ARC. I just used conventional Subs.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21858971
> 
> 
> When ARC says Error 0x04 Turn Up
> 
> SUB Volume. It really means *DOWN*



0x04 can also mean it's clipping, though unlikely if Quick Measure readings were below 90 dB.


Balancing main channel levels by ear isn't hard but setting the sub 10-25 dB too high based on test noises is not unusual because our ears just aren't sensitive down there.


----------------------------


SPL meter phone apps are becoming more popular. Be careful with them - phones have automatic gain control for their mics which throws off readings by a huge amount.


If you download such an app make sure you calibrate it against a normal meter while playing the main speaker test noise at 75 dB, and check readings again using the sub test noise. Chances are that the app will still be way off in the bass but if it holds the peak reading, it may be the more accurate one. It depends on your phone and the app, and different apps don't even agree between themselves on the same phone even after calibration. Try to memorize the margin of error if you intend to use the app afterwards.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21859504
> 
> 
> 0x04 can also mean it's clipping, though unlikely if Quick Measure readings were below 90 dB.


*I HAVE ALWAYS USED a SPL Meter.
*

All I was saying when I set it at 73db this morning and ARC

put out TEST Tones - it sounded very LOW.


But the END Results are GREAT.


I was just irritated all weekend the error code said turn up Sub

Volume. It should have said DOWN.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You sure you weren't using the Australian version of the program?









--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21859742
> 
> 
> ^ You sure you weren't using the Australian version of the program?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I credited you with being RIGHT - you said

it might be BACKWARDS.


----------



## dmusoke

Should the center speaker's low frequency response be as wide as the mains(or as wide as possible) or should it be limited as the most surrounds are?


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21859582
> 
> *I HAVE ALWAYS USED a SPL Meter.
> *
> 
> All I was saying when I set it at 73db this morning and ARC
> 
> put out TEST Tones - it sounded very LOW.
> 
> 
> But the END Results are GREAT.
> 
> 
> I was just irritated all weekend the error code said turn up Sub
> 
> Volume. It should have said DOWN.



Check your speaker Calibration Levels in the Setup Menu after loading your ARC results. If your Sub trim level shown is much higher relative to the other channels, it means its test tone level was set too high.


As I mentioned earlier, most SPL meters exhibit substantial low frequency rolloff resulting in an actually higher test tone level being set. So, if your SPL meter reads 75dB, the actual level may be 80dB or even higher, which ARC may object.


Ben


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The room correction will have no knowledge of the LFE filter, be it in the recording studio or in the AV processor, so that's not an issue.
> 
> 
> I have the luxury of talking about these concepts absent the realities of any particular product's design issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm talking about making the overall reproduced sound quality better, not just dealing with odd soundtracks.
> 
> 
> Yes. that's true. My question is whether that is what we should really be reproducing, wrt the filter diagram I posted. It's a rhetorical question.
> 
> 
> Very little. If the content maker has provided sufficient filtering, or otherwise created an LFE signal that is constrained to


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It will correct up to the Sub "Cutoff" frequency as specified in the Targets window. Think of Sub Cutoff kind of like Max EQ Frequency for the Sub.


(I suspect there's actually a roll off of EQ resources around that Cutoff frequency rather than it being a hard stopping point. The way to check this is to see if there's improvement -- reduction in residual error compared to the Sub Target curve -- for any additional frequency range above that Cutoff.)


Just as with Max EQ Frequency, raising Sub Cutoff may produce a solution that does not look as good due to resource limitations -- too much correction needed. That's why we stress repositioning the Sub to find a location where less correction is needed so that you CAN raise Sub Cutoff (if ARC hasn't already put it up at 120Hz).

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

I moved my sub (again) to the best spot in the room and re-did ARC. It magically raised the sub cutoff to 110Hz (was 80Hz last time). Given that my sub rolls off at 100Hz this is probably as close to the full range as I'll get


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21857505
> 
> 
> Did you run a full measurement to see what the corrected result is like? That would be worthwhile because this Quick Measure has the widest range of the three. You might end up losing a little at 50 Hz after correction but gain a lot at 100 Hz.
> 
> 
> Besides, I wouldn't be remotely as afraid of EQ applying +6 dB at 50 Hz in the sub instead of the center channel, just for the sake of the center channel's driver, in case you're still inclined to change its correction target from 95 Hz to 60 Hz. I still don't recommend that but it all really depends on how loudly you'll ever play things.



I did a full re-measure and made two configurations. Movie has the automatic settings with the Center at 100Hz - 10kHz; Music at 60Hz - 15kHz.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ 60Hz looks too low for Music. The dip at 50Hz is under-corrected too much.


Try 80Hz. The ripples between 60-250Hz may go away as well when you do that, or you could try smaller tweaks of Max EQ Frequency to see if an intermediate value would smooth those. But the ripples are probably something you can ignore if you can fix that dip at 50Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21862078
> 
> 
> ^ It will correct up to the Sub "Cutoff" frequency as specified in the Targets window. Think of Sub Cutoff kind of like Max EQ Frequency for the Sub.
> 
> 
> (I suspect there's actually a roll off of EQ resources around that Cutoff frequency rather than it being a hard stopping point. The way to check this is to see if there's improvement -- reduction in residual error compared to the Sub Target curve -- for any additional frequency range above that Cutoff.)
> 
> 
> Just as with Max EQ Frequency, raising Sub Cutoff may produce a solution that does not look as good due to resource limitations -- too much correction needed. That's why we stress repositioning the Sub to find a location where less correction is needed so that you CAN raise Sub Cutoff (if ARC hasn't already put it up at 120Hz).
> 
> --Bob



Ah, but this is how the whole discussion started.


When I set the main crossover to 40Hz (for example), and the Sub Cutoff target to 120Hz, ARC does not appear to discriminate between the LFE channel and the redirected bass. The main speakers are still crossing over at 40Hz, but the Sub plays up to 120Hz.


This for two channel music, BTW.


If I set the Sub Cutoff to be the same as the crossover, things act like they should, but I don't know if ARC is correcting the LFE channel above the Sub cutoff.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ ARC corrects frequency response after LFE and redirected bass are summed so yes, LFE response is corrected through to the upper cutoff target.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21863164
> 
> 
> ^ 60Hz looks too low for Music. The dip at 50Hz is under-corrected too much.
> 
> 
> Try 80Hz. The ripples between 60-250Hz may go away as well when you do that, or you could try smaller tweaks of Max EQ Frequency to see if an intermediate value would smooth those. But the ripples are probably something you can ignore if you can fix that dip at 50Hz.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I'll try that.


Quick question about this warning message. Is it referring to the settings currently in the ARC Software or the settings in the AVM itself?? Do I need to re-upload my saved ARC solution to the AVM any time I use Quick Measure?!


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21866672
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I'll try that.
> 
> 
> Quick question about this warning message. Is it referring to the settings currently in the ARC Software or the settings in the AVM itself?? Do I need to re-upload my saved ARC solution to the AVM any time I use Quick Measure?!



Providing that you didn't move any of your speakers or any furniture, then yes, you would just need to re-upload your latest ARC results. However, if you have moved speakers or furniture, then you should re-run ARC.


----------



## AVfile

So just using Quick-Measure wipes out your ARC solution in flash? Ouch! I hope everyone realizes this...


edit: the warning says save your "bass manager and level settings". I think this can be done just by saving User settings via the AVM Save/Load menu, and then re-loading them after messing around with QM.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21866775
> 
> 
> So just using Quick-Measure wipes out your ARC solution in flash? Ouch! I hope everyone realizes this...
> 
> 
> edit: the warning says save your "bass manager and level settings". I think this can be done just by saving User settings via the AVM Save/Load menu, and then re-loading them after messing around with QM.



Yes, you could probably reload User Settings; but, since you already have your computer connected to your D2, I would just re-upload the last ARC run just to be on the safe side in case QM reset some things that are not set my doing a reload of User Settings.


----------



## shn750

Hello


I have the D2 (not D2v) and just ordered the ARC kit from my dealer. On the D2, I'm running a very old firmware, probably 1.2x or something similar. Regardless it's old where I have never did a firmware upgrade since purchasing the D2 years ago.


My question with the ARC and required firmware update, after I save all my settings etc, can I do the firmware upgrade straight from the current version to the latest 2.10? Also, Anthem's website only specifies a firmware for the D2v. I'm assuming that these are interchangable with the original D2?


For now, I'm reading through the ARC helpful links on the main page of this thread. If I have any questions, I'll be sure to ask. I'll be very curious if ARC makes a noticable difference










Thanks everyone!

Steve


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21868226
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> I have the D2 (not D2v) and just ordered the ARC kit from my dealer. On the D2, I'm running a very old firmware, probably 1.2x or something similar. Regardless it's old where I have never did a firmware upgrade since purchasing the D2 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone!
> 
> Steve



The FW 1.33 is *HERE* but if you are upgrading to 3D also you will

need 1.47f. You will have to get that from Anthem Tech Support.


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21866335
> 
> 
> ^ ARC corrects frequency response after LFE and redirected bass are summed so yes, LFE response is corrected through to the upper cutoff target.



That's a shame. I was hoping ARC would correct the LFE channel up to 120Hz no matter what the sub cut-off is set to, which is how it should work.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The whole idea is to allow you to constrain the range of correction so that the bass correction resources can be better utilized through the crossover region.


Bass Management through the crossover region is much more important than high frequency LFE.


Think of the Sub Cutoff as like Max EQ Frequency for the Sub channel.


To get Correction up to 120Hz you need to arrange things so that the Sub doesn't also need a ton of correction through the normal bass frequency range.


Note that you can't force crossover frequencies (not Cutoffs) for BOTH the mains and the Sub and still expect ARC to work. That would be over-constraining the problem. ARC needs the flexibility to pick the Sub crossover itself.


Adjust main speaker crossovers using their Cutoff settings and leave it to ARC to pick the best Sub crossover. Then, if that combo doesn't require too MUCH bass correction, you can ALSO raise the Sub Cutoff to try to extend correction into its high bass (for high LFE).

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21868226
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> I have the D2 (not D2v) and just ordered the ARC kit from my dealer. On the D2, I'm running a very old firmware, probably 1.2x or something similar. Regardless it's old where I have never did a firmware upgrade since purchasing the D2 years ago.
> 
> 
> My question with the ARC and required firmware update, after I save all my settings etc, can I do the firmware upgrade straight from the current version to the latest 2.10? Also, Anthem's website only specifies a firmware for the D2v. I'm assuming that these are interchangable with the original D2?
> 
> 
> For now, I'm reading through the ARC helpful links on the main page of this thread. If I have any questions, I'll be sure to ask. I'll be very curious if ARC makes a noticable difference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone!
> 
> Steve



,


Steve,

drhankz gave you the link to the Anthem 'archive' page which is where the D2 downloads are. You might want to bookmark this link since the D2 stuff is kind of buried in the Anthem website now. drhankz saved you valuable time by posting this link for you. It took me a while to dig down to this page.


Also on that page is an updated D2 manual. I suggest you save a copy of the D2 manual pdf on your computer. There is a section on 'ARC setup' in this manual that has alot of information you will need to run ARC.


If you are using a computer or laptop that does not have a serial port (and most new ones don't) you will need to get a usb-serial adapter. The Keyspan usa-19hs is highly recommended. I think Anthem is including this adapter with the D2v now. You can find it on the net or possible locally if you don't already have one.


You will probably have some questions when you first start to run ARC. Please feel free to ask for help. There are many experienced users here who will be happy to help you. Pay special attention to suggestions from Bob P.-his help is invaluable.


You already found the stickies on the first page of this thread on ARC. Some are better than others, and they may raise more questions than they answer, but it would be worth your time to read thru them while you are waiting for your kit to arrive.


I would be very surprised if you don't think ARC makes a significant improvement. It was the best $400 I have spent on my system.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ My early, probably flip, appraisal of ARC still strikes me as pretty apt after all this time: Adding ARC is like spending twice as much on your speakers.

--Bob


----------



## shn750

Thank you drhankz, tngiloy, and of course Bob Pariseau for the ARC info.


Once I get my ARC kit I'm sure I'll have more questions after ARC has been run. I've tried to read all the various threads on the ARC graphs and the measurements etc. Frankly, I can't make heads or tails on what a good reading should look like. The D2 manual mostly only writes about how to set it up and run it. It doesn't really tell you how to make improvements based on the graphs. Is ARC more or less plug and play? Meaning once the measurements are made, there's really no real tweaks needed? I've mostly read recommendations on moving the subs around.


Are there any threads on the sticky that explains how to read the ARC graphs?


Regards,

Steve


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21869324
> 
> 
> Thank you drhankz, tngiloy, and of course Bob Pariseau for the ARC info.
> 
> 
> Once I get my ARC kit I'm sure I'll have more questions after ARC has been run. I've tried to read all the various threads on the ARC graphs and the measurements etc. Frankly, I can't make heads or tails on what a good reading should look like. The D2 manual mostly only writes about how to set it up and run it. It doesn't really tell you how to make improvements based on the graphs. Is ARC more or less plug and play? Meaning once the measurements are made, there's really no real tweaks needed? I've mostly read recommendations on moving the subs around.
> 
> 
> Are there any threads on the sticky that explains how to read the ARC graphs?
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Steve



I suggest you take a shot at running ARC based on what you have read and then post your graphs and targets. From there, we will provide you guidance. We are friendly people and love to help.


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21868638
> 
> 
> ^ The whole idea is to allow you to constrain the range of correction so that the bass correction resources can be better utilized through the crossover region.
> 
> 
> Bass Management through the crossover region is much more important than high frequency LFE.
> 
> 
> Think of the Sub Cutoff as like Max EQ Frequency for the Sub channel.
> 
> 
> To get Correction up to 120Hz you need to arrange things so that the Sub doesn't also need a ton of correction through the normal bass frequency range.
> 
> 
> Note that you can't force crossover frequencies (not Cutoffs) for BOTH the mains and the Sub and still expect ARC to work. That would be over-constraining the problem. ARC needs the flexibility to pick the Sub crossover itself.
> 
> 
> Adjust main speaker crossovers using their Cutoff settings and leave it to ARC to pick the best Sub crossover. Then, if that combo doesn't require too MUCH bass correction, you can ALSO raise the Sub Cutoff to try to extend correction into its high bass (for high LFE).
> 
> --Bob



The problem is that raising the sub cut-off also raises the sub low pass, which is not ideal in all circumstances.


I would prefer it if ARC treated the LFE channel like a separate channel.


On the other hand it is really only an issue when listening to SACD and DTS CDs which use the LFE channel for music. I'm not that fussed whether my explosions are 100% room corrected.


Fortunately Anthem does let me have the different Movie and Music settings.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds* /forum/post/21869471
> 
> 
> The problem is that raising the sub cut-off also raises the sub low pass, which is not ideal in all circumstances.
> 
> 
> . . . .



If you lower the Cutoffs for the mains (all of them) and raise it for the Sub, the Crossover for the sub will typically be kept low. (The result varies of course by what the speakers Measure -- what they are actually capable of doing.) Whether you can get a well corrected solution when you do that is another matter. Basically, the Sub crossover is primarily selected by where it needs to be to blend well with the mains.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds* /forum/post/21868560
> 
> 
> That's a shame. I was hoping ARC would correct the LFE channel up to 120Hz no matter what the sub cut-off is set to, which is how it should work.



Questioning things is important not to mention fun, but it's just as important avoid fixating on "philosophical" issues when it's the ears that should be the judge. Blanket statements can be dangerous.


If one focuses on placing the sub properly as much as why ARC is setting and using targets the way it does, and the auto-target gets as close as possible to 120 Hz which I don't believe is difficult* for anyone who's tweak-minded and aren't we all othwerwise we wouldn't be worrying about this stuff, I promise you that the sound will improve for real not just psychologically. Never forget that electronic correction is icing on the cake and that it never was a miracle cure. Trying to squeeze the most out of electronic correction without first getting the best from uncorrected in-room sound is a waste of time. It seems I've been saying this a lot lately - you can't lose what you never had! When was the last time anyone said that ARC made the sound worse?


Everyone wants the same thing - to have it all, in essence. Believe it or not, this includes engineers and product managers or whoever comes up with original concepts then sees them materialize. Then, after years of work and research are put into something such as a room correction system, the "philosophy" may change unexpectedly but this does not mean it's compromised. It just means that something was learned along the way and something was made practical.


The best advice I can give is that after Quick Measure is performed so that the sub is best placed, and then ARC does its thing, listen first with the ears, not the eyes, and try to avoid itchy fingers.


*If you want a real challenge try something like this comical one: ARCing the open-air 3.1-channel system at the entrance of our Cedia booth. It's been there for the last two years, since the MRX receiver came out. Anyone who's been there and sat on the couch for even just 10 seconds knows how great it sounded. During setup, this is a few feet away from fork lifts, be they idling or whizzing by, cherry pickers, power tools, and plenty of people traffic including people with bullhorns. And no carpet - rolling it out is the last step before doors open. To put it simply, with perserverance astounding results can be had no matter how impossible the situation may seem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21869324
> 
> 
> Thank you drhankz, tngiloy, and of course Bob Pariseau for the ARC info.
> 
> 
> Once I get my ARC kit I'm sure I'll have more questions after ARC has been run. I've tried to read all the various threads on the ARC graphs and the measurements etc. Frankly, I can't make heads or tails on what a good reading should look like. The D2 manual mostly only writes about how to set it up and run it. It doesn't really tell you how to make improvements based on the graphs. Is ARC more or less plug and play? Meaning once the measurements are made, there's really no real tweaks needed? I've mostly read recommendations on moving the subs around.
> 
> 
> Are there any threads on the sticky that explains how to read the ARC graphs?
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Steve



ARC is mostly plug and play. Tweaking the results, based on the charts, is for folks who want to experiment and deal with the learning curve.


The one exception is that some charts will alert you that you have a problem, such as a speaker with a blown driver, or a badly positioned subwoofer. Fixing something like that is essential, not just a tweak.


Although there ARE posts in here that discuss what the charts show you, the fastest way to climb the learning curve is simply to post your charts here and follow the bouncing ball of advice that will start rolling in.


And ask questions of course. The charts are not that mysterious.


Here's your first piece of advice: Don't change something ARC has chosen for you unless you have a good reason. Odds are ARC has already made the right choices. In particular, a good reason does *NOT* include advice that comes from OTHER ways to set up your audio system (e.g., "The only good Crossover is an 80Hz Crossover!"). A good reason *DOES* include changing ARC's Targets to fix problems showing in the charts according to the advice you'll get from posters here. You should be able to see the improvement yourself, and you should be able to hear the improvement when you test it. And the reasoning behind the change should make logical sense to you as filtered through your growing understanding of how ARC works. That is, work WITH ARC not AGAINST ARC when making changes.


Here's your second piece of advice: You need to set speaker distances and subwoofer Phase manually. ARC does not set those for you.


When you are reading those tutorial posts, pay particular attention to the rules for proper mic placement. ARC's solution can only be as good as what the mic hears.

--Bob


----------



## cvinfig

So what should be a great, exciting time is turning into a real bummer. One of my new Monitor Audio Platinum speakers has a damaged tweeter (replacement on the way), the cable I bought from Radio Shack for a 12V trigger proved to be defective (along with two others I tried in the store before finding one that was actually good), and my week old AVM 50v with v2.11 software is spitting out audio sporadically. I'll quadruple check all of my audio connections and the amp (Outlaw 7500) tonight but thus far the Anthem seems to be the likely culprit. Occasionally it has worked flawlessly. Other times I'd get nothing for a while, switch inputs multiple times, and eventually get audio. Most times it sits silent with a little static emanating from the speakers. Sometimes there's a soft pop/tick that seems to go from one speaker to the next around the room.


Connections are few - satellite box and blu-ray player via HDMI, Wii via analog, and a Squeezebox via digital coax. All have worked / failed to work at some point, along with the FM tuner. These last couple of days have been a roller-coaster of sulking, anger, and frustration which has led to an unorganized process of checking/rechecking wiring, switching inputs, powering off/on, and tweaking setup options. Any suggestions for things to try tonight? I'll keep a log of everything I try and the results. Or I might say screw it and drink heavily and attack it on Saturday instead...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cvinfig* /forum/post/21871787
> 
> 
> So what should be a great, exciting time is turning into a real bummer. One of my new Monitor Audio Platinum speakers has a damaged tweeter (replacement on the way), the cable I bought from Radio Shack for a 12V trigger proved to be defective (along with two others I tried in the store before finding one that was actually good), and my week old AVM 50v with v2.11 software is spitting out audio sporadically. I'll quadruple check all of my audio connections and the amp (Outlaw 7500) tonight but thus far the Anthem seems to be the likely culprit. Occasionally it has worked flawlessly. Other times I'd get nothing for a while, switch inputs multiple times, and eventually get audio. Most times it sits silent with a little static emanating from the speakers. Sometimes there's a soft pop/tick that seems to go from one speaker to the next around the room.
> 
> 
> Connections are few - satellite box and blu-ray player via HDMI, Wii via analog, and a Squeezebox via digital coax. All have worked / failed to work at some point, along with the FM tuner. These last couple of days have been a roller-coaster of sulking, anger, and frustration which has led to an unorganized process of checking/rechecking wiring, switching inputs, powering off/on, and tweaking setup options. Any suggestions for things to try tonight? I'll keep a log of everything I try and the results. Or I might say screw it and drink heavily and attack it on Saturday instead...



Well first of all, you should already be working the problem with Anthem tech support. Diagnosing stuff like this often goes more swiftly with someone on the phone or with direct email exchange.


Whenever weird things like this start happening the thing to do is simplify your setup and re-check the basics.


(By the way, your comment about static from the speakers makes me suspect you may have a "ground loop" -- interference coming into your system. A common culprit is an improperly installed cable or satellite TV feed, so try disconnecting that at the wall and see if the noise from the speakers goes away. The speakers should be absolutely silent when there is no audio playing.)


Pick one source device for testing -- I recommend you use a Blu-ray player, not a TV program feed -- and disconnect the others for now. Recheck all of your cables to make sure they are properly connected in the correct sockets. A common problem with new installations is that the HDMI plugs -- which are only friction fit -- work a bit loose in the sockets under the weight of the cable or just by being knocked about as you check stuff. They need to be fully inserted straight into the sockets with nothing tugging them in any direction. Check both ends of EVERY HDMI cable -- both inputs and output to your display.


Next see if you can bring up the video images internally generated in the AVM 50v. This would include the Setup menu, and also the Video Source Adjust menu (Press and hold the "7" button on the remote). These are independent of your Source device.


If you can bring up the Video Source Adjust menu, then scroll right to the Patterns tab and down to select any of the full screen test patterns built into the AVM 50v. Do you get a proper display of those? If not then the problem is on the OUTPUT side of your AVM 50v -- either the Video Configuration or the settings in your display.


Next go to Setup > Level Calibration, change the first line "Test Mode" to Manual, and scroll down the list of speaker lines below it to make sure you are getting audio from each speaker, and only from the correct speaker. Use the Back button to shut off the test tone. If you are getting good audio from each speaker, then your physical connections to the power amp and speakers are working. If not, then, again, the problem is on the OUTPUT side of the AVM 50v. Check connections to the amp and to the speakers.


You mentioned using Trigger connections to turn on our amps. A common problem with new installations is that the plug at either end of the trigger wire is not fully inserted into the jack. NOTE: The AVM 50v Trigger sockets expect a MONO mini-jack, not a STEREO mini-jack.


Once you have verified that the OUTPUT side of the AVM 50v is working for video and audio, THEN go to your Source device.


Start simply: Set the device to output 480p (not 480i). 480p is the simplest HDMI signal. Try playing something simple like a CD disc. Do you get good audio and video?


Basically at this point you start working back up, one step at a time, to your desired configuration. See how far you can go before problems start re-appearing (if they do come back). That will give you more info as to what's happening.

--Bob


----------



## cvinfig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21871951
> 
> 
> Well first of all, you should already be working the problem with Anthem tech support. Diagnosing stuff like this often goes more swiftly with someone on the phone or with direct email exchange.
> 
> 
> Whenever weird things like this start happening the thing to do is simplify your setup and re-check the basics.
> 
> 
> (By the way, your comment about static from the speakers makes me suspect you may have a "ground loop" -- interference coming into your system. A common culprit is an improperly installed cable or satellite TV feed, so try disconnecting that at the wall and see if the noise from the speakers goes away. The speakers should be absolutely silent when there is no audio playing.)
> 
> 
> Pick one source device for testing -- I recommend you use a Blu-ray player, not a TV program feed -- and disconnect the others for now. Recheck all of your cables to make sure they are properly connected in the correct sockets. A common problem with new installations is that the HDMI plugs -- which are only friction fit -- work a bit loose in the sockets under the weight of the cable or just by being knocked about as you check stuff. They need to be fully inserted straight into the sockets with nothing tugging them in any direction. Check both ends of EVERY HDMI cable -- both inputs and output to your display.
> 
> 
> Next see if you can bring up the video images internally generated in the AVM 50v. This would include the Setup menu, and also the Video Source Adjust menu (Press and hold the "7" button on the remote). These are independent of your Source device.
> 
> 
> If you can bring up the Video Source Adjust menu, then scroll right to the Patterns tab and down to select any of the full screen test patterns built into the AVM 50v. Do you get a proper display of those? If not then the problem is on the OUTPUT side of your AVM 50v -- either the Video Configuration or the settings in your display.
> 
> 
> Next go to Setup > Level Calibration, change the first line "Test Mode" to Manual, and scroll down the list of speaker lines below it to make sure you are getting audio from each speaker, and only from the correct speaker. Use the Back button to shut off the test tone. If you are getting good audio from each speaker, then your physical connections to the power amp and speakers are working. If not, then, again, the problem is on the OUTPUT side of the AVM 50v. Check connections to the amp and to the speakers.
> 
> 
> You mentioned using Trigger connections to turn on our amps. A common problem with new installations is that the plug at either end of the trigger wire is not fully inserted into the jack. NOTE: The AVM 50v Trigger sockets expect a MONO mini-jack, not a STEREO mini-jack.
> 
> 
> Once you have verified that the OUTPUT side of the AVM 50v is working for video and audio, THEN go to your Source device.
> 
> 
> Start simply: Set the device to output 480p (not 480i). 480p is the simplest HDMI signal. Try playing something simple like a CD disc. Do you get good audio and video?
> 
> 
> Basically at this point you start working back up, one step at a time, to your desired configuration. See how far you can go before problems start re-appearing (if they do come back). That will give you more info as to what's happening.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks for the reply. If I can't get this figured out by the end of the weekend I'll definitely be contacting Anthem tech support.


A couple notes:


Video hasn't been a problem at all; satellite, blu-ray, and Wii have all displayed video perfectly every time I've switched to those sources.


The static coming from the speakers when the audio isn't working is unlike ground-loop hums I've experienced in the past and it was never an issue with the Outlaw 990 in the system.


As for the trigger, it's connected to an APC H15. Since the delayed outlets weren't turning on I decided to check the mono cable with an ohmmeter and it turned out to be bad. I took the cable and my ohmmeter to Radio Shack and found two other bad cables before exchanging for one that tested out good. The good cable is working properly.


I think I'll start by disconnecting everything, recheck the connections to the amp and test that with the Outlaw 990. If that works I'll reconnect the balanced cables to the Anthem, load the factory settings, and do Setup > Level Calibration, and go through the Manual test mode. I tried the manual test mode once before and there was no audio. If that works I'll start building the system back up one piece at a time.


----------



## mateored

Question for you knowledgeable ones:


I've got an Anthem AVM 50v, and I just bought a pair of Sennheiser RS 220 wireless headphones. I tried to hook the base station for the phones up to the Anthem using digital coax, so I plugged it into the Digital audio REC output 1. However, I am not getting any signal to the phones. I tried manually changing the record path to the source I want, but no luck.


Sources are:

Mac Mini (HDMI)

DirecTV (HDMI)

Oppo Blu-Ray (HDMI)


Any suggestions? What am I doing wrong?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Digital audio output is for digital tape recorders and basically will only function if you have a stereo digital source (that's not copy protected). E.g., copying the LPCM stereo digital audio from a CD music disc to a digital tape recorder.


In particular it won't work with HDMI audio Sources since virtually all HDMI audio is copy protected.


You can also use the Digital audio output with stereo Analog sources that are set to ANALOG-DSP.


See Section 2.2 of the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## mateored




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21873919
> 
> 
> The Digital audio output is for digital tape recorders and basically will only function if you have a stereo digital source (that's not copy protected). E.g., copying the LPCM stereo digital audio from a CD music disc to a digital tape recorder.
> 
> 
> In particular it won't work with HDMI audio Sources since virtually all HDMI audio is copy protected.
> 
> 
> You can also use the Digital audio output with stereo Analog sources that are set to ANALOG-DSP.
> 
> 
> See Section 2.2 of the Manual.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. So does that mean that I have to hook this up to analog outputs via RCA cables? That seems a shame, since I think the Sennheiser will have to re-convert it to digital (not totally sure about that).



Sorry for being dense. I saw the section of the manual to which you are referring, but I thought it could be clearer. You should re-write their manual!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I'd suggest you hook it up both to the digital out and also a stereo output (perhaps Zone 3). If you are playing a digital source like a CD you can then use the digital out if you want. Note that the Digital Record out is part of the "Record" path in the unit. The unit is like 4 devices in one box (Main, Zone 2, Zone 3, and Record) which are separately controllable but can kind of be "ganged together" so that selections you make on the Main Path also apply to what happens on other Paths. You'll likely want to set it up for Record to be putting out what you have selected for Main.


For the Analog output you'll need to use Copy mode to Copy any digital Source to the Analog output Path. That's the only way a digital Source can get converted to Analog. I.e., only the Main Path inputs have the ability to convert a digital audio input source to analog.


See Section 4.3 in the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## mateored

 Thanks again, Bob!


Question: I ripped several hundred CDs in Apple Lossless format on my Mac. Shouldn't I be able to listen to those through the digital out, or is the HDMI connection preventing that?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

HDMI is preventing that. In addition your headphones would need to know how to play Apple Lossless. That's a proprietary format.

--Bob


----------



## mateored




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21874065
> 
> 
> HDMI is preventing that. In addition your headphones would need to know how to play Apple Lossless. That's a proprietary format.
> 
> --Bob



The Mac doesn't output the tunes in Apple Lossless. iTunes somehow converts it into a digital format that the Anthem recognizes and plays, so I don't think that's an issue. Your point about HDMI is well taken, however. I'll try the analog hook-up and see how it sounds. Thanks.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mateored* /forum/post/21873730
> 
> 
> I've got an Anthem AVM 50v, and I just bought a pair of Sennheiser RS 220 wireless headphones. I tried to hook the base station for the phones up to the Anthem using digital coax, so I plugged it into the Digital audio REC output 1. However, I am not getting any signal to the phones. I tried manually changing the record path to the source I want, but no luck.
> 
> 
> Sources are:
> 
> Mac Mini (HDMI)
> 
> DirecTV (HDMI)
> 
> Oppo Blu-Ray (HDMI)





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mateored* /forum/post/21873969
> 
> 
> So does that mean that I have to hook this up to analog outputs via RCA cables? That seems a shame, since I think the Sennheiser will have to re-convert it to digital (not totally sure about that).



No need to reconvert. All of your sources have have S/PDIF outputs. Set up new inputs on the D2 using them and then the Rec out will work into the headphones.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21655923
> 
> 
> On my 50v with firmware 2.11 I was not able to make OPPO BDP-93 work reliably, in 90% I was getting either black screen or no sound. When I plugged it into a lower row HDMI in, those issues disappeared. Then I asked Anthem customer service for latest beta v2.13b firmware. With this firmware I got my OPPO to work with upper HDMI row too (but got more problems with Cisco HD PVR). So basically it is a firmware issue (HDCP handshake) and probably a lot of these issues will be resolved when Anthem releases a newer firmware (or new 3d HDMI board). But you may have another issue, so just try the lower HDMI row for your OPPO and see if there is any difference. If it does not help you can try to get a newer firmware from Anthem. They are reluctant to give it but they will finally do it if you insist.



It's too bad 3D hardware issues are holding up the new firmware. There are some good fixes in the beta, even support for LVSE and CustomResolutionManager, which we have been waiting for a long time.


I sent an email to Anthem suggesting they release a non-3D related firmware update for everyone. I think it would be wise to maintain separate streams of the software and keep the 3D stuff separate in case there are issues in the future that prevent it from being backwards compatible with old hardware. Their response was something like "we plan to release all the fixes together" ... ugh.


----------



## cvinfig

This morning I disconnected everything but the balanced audio-out cables, RS-232, triggers to turn on the amp and subwoofer outlets, and the am antenna. Turned the unit on to the FM tuner and had audio! I ran ARC and all was going well until the fifth speaker during the fourth position. Audio stopped and the software threw an error dialog. I was able to start with the same speaker and it finished fine as well as the fifth position. Great. Finished up the whole ARC process and since the FM tuner was still producing audio I decided to make a couple more connections after turning the unit off and flipping the power switch on the back - HDMI1 out so I could traverse the menu system easier, coax digital in from the Squeezebox, powered IR in, and the FM antenna. Turned the unit back on and once again no audio. I then started removing one connection at a time (turning the unit off each time) and trying again until I was back to the same configuration that was working before. Still no audio. I sent a message to Anthem tech support but I'm guessing they were off because of Good Friday because I never got a reply. I went ahead and redid all of my connections and I've powered the unit on/off several times today switching to various inputs and not one trace of audio. For the Squeezebox the display actually bounces back and forth between digital and PCM for a few seconds with some audible ticking but eventually it stops on digital and no sound.


Oh, at one point I did connect unbalanced audio front L/R to my zone2 amp and tried the FM tuner but still no audio (when I try FM tuner the stereo light does illuminate btw).


Since I have family coming in town tomorrow and this system is in our main room, would I be stupid to try and load the v2.10 firmware that's available for download?


EDIT: Just tried headphones and no audio out there either...


----------



## mateored




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21874001
> 
> 
> ^ I'd suggest you hook it up both to the digital out and also a stereo output (perhaps Zone 3). If you are playing a digital source like a CD you can then use the digital out if you want. Note that the Digital Record out is part of the "Record" path in the unit. The unit is like 4 devices in one box (Main, Zone 2, Zone 3, and Record) which are separately controllable but can kind of be "ganged together" so that selections you make on the Main Path also apply to what happens on other Paths. You'll likely want to set it up for Record to be putting out what you have selected for Main.
> 
> 
> For the Analog output you'll need to use Copy mode to Copy any digital Source to the Analog output Path. That's the only way a digital Source can get converted to Analog. I.e., only the Main Path inputs have the ability to convert a digital audio input source to analog.
> 
> 
> See Section 4.3 in the Manual.
> 
> --Bob



UPDATE: I got the headphones working, but the answer is a little different than we thought. I hooked up the analog outputs and it still wasn't working. Then I remembered Bob's post above about using Copy mode to copy any digital source to the analog record-output path, so I did that, and it worked great. That got me wondering whether that was the same problem with the coax digital record output, so I hooked up the coax cable again and this time it worked! So, it turns out that:

1. you need to use copy mode even to pass a digital source to the digital REC output; and "

2. HDMI sources do not prevent the digital signal from being passed to the digital REC output -- at least not with the sources that I used (DirecTV and MacMini playing iTunes music (both ripped CDs and purchased mp3's, and Mac Mini playing Pandora via web browser). I haven't tried the Blu Ray yet.


That all having been said, I am disappointed with the sound quality of the Sennheisers right out of the box. I am going to let them burn in for a while, and will also upgrade the coax cable (I am using the crappy one that came with the headphones, but have a good one on order). If the sound doesn't improve a lot, I'm going to return these and just get a 15' Cardas cord for my trusty old Sennheiser HD600's.


Also worth noting, at least with this crummy coax cable, the analog path produces a louder line-level signal.


Thanks for the help, guys.


----------



## dmusoke

Hey y'all .... what is the word on using power-conditioners/surge-protectors etc with the D2(v)/AVM50(v)? Are they taboo or recommended by Anthem? if taboo, why???


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cvinfig* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I ran ARC and all was going well until the fifth speaker during the fourth position. Audio stopped and the software threw an error dialog. I was able to start with the same speaker and it finished fine as well as the fifth position. Great. Finished up the whole ARC process ...



Same thing happened to me today, same place. Bur the error was "excessive background noise detected" so I thought nothing of it and everything is fine now.



> Quote:
> Since I have family coming in town tomorrow and this system is in our main room, would I be stupid to try and load the v2.10 firmware that's available for download?



Since you've gone right back to the pure 'tuner only' setup that worked before, I think you've exhausted the possibility of a digital input screwing up. Unless you feel like trying another analog input, I'd say it's time to reload some firmware. Given that tech support is closed, why not. You could try 2.13g first.


I have a 50v with 2.13g so feel free to PM me.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey y'all .... what is the word on using power-conditioners/surge-protectors etc with the D2(v)/AVM50(v)? Are they taboo or recommended by Anthem? if taboo, why???



Anthem (and Sonic Frontiers before that) has never recommended them and often warns against them. I think some of these products do more harm than good. For them to do any good you probably need really lousy power to begin with (which is unlikely in any residential and civilized part of the world) and poorly designed equipment.


Most components have transformers to guard against that, and all amplifiers convert the AC to DC. A lot of equipment has filtered IEC connectors too, if not you can install them. That leaves surge protection which can be installed on your entire house at the panel if you're really paranoid or just get a simple power bar. I don't believe in the really sophisticated ones that regenerate power as they have running issues.


Having said all that I run a Panamax Pro outlet bar on my HT for convenience, surge protection and some noise filtering "just in case". It was $200 max. On my 2ch stereo there is nothing.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21878232
> 
> 
> Anthem (and Sonic Frontiers before that) has never recommended them and often warns against them. I think some of these products do more harm than good. For them to do any good you probably need really lousy power to begin with (which is unlikely in any residential and civilized part of the world) and poorly designed equipment.
> 
> 
> Most components have transformers to guard against that, and all amplifiers convert the AC to DC. A lot of equipment has filtered IEC connectors too, if not you can install them. That leaves surge protection which can be installed on your entire house at the panel if you're really paranoid or just get a simple power bar. I don't believe in the really sophisticated ones that regenerate power as they have running issues.
> 
> 
> Having said all that I run a Panamax Pro outlet bar on my HT for convenience, surge protection and some noise filtering "just in case". It was $200 max. On my 2ch stereo there is nothing.



Thanks AVFile ...the reason i asked is that we had a unique power outage 2 days ago here in my apartment and my loudspeakers/subs made loud and scary popping sounds! It sounded like *POP ....POP,POP,POP.........POP, POP, POP*. This went for for about 3 minutes with house lights turning on and off randomly!!! The speakers/subs and the rest of the equipment seem fine but the popping sound was really scary and was frightened (and now paranoid) for my equipment.


I just wanted to find a way to quell these sounds. My APC S15BLK conditioner didn't seem to prevent these sounds


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I use an APC brand battery backup -- the type they sell for use with computers. It also acts as a surge protector. Its main role is to help the D2v stay alive across brief power glitches so I don't have to wait for the D2v to boot up again. I also have anything with a disk drive in it plugged into the battery backup (e.g., my Comcast HD/DVR).


The APC is NOT a power conditioner. The problem with power conditioners, in general, is that they can't handle a sudden increase in power draw needed by whatever is plugged into them.


There's nothing wrong with surge protectors, nor with battery backup as a convenience or to help protect devices with moving parts.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21878316
> 
> 
> I use an APC brand battery backup -- the type they sell for use with computers. It also acts as a surge protector. Its main role is to help the D2v stay alive across brief power glitches so I don't have to wait for the D2v to boot up again. I also have anything with a disk drive in it plugged into the battery backup (e.g., my Comcast HD/DVR).
> 
> 
> The APC is NOT a power conditioner. The problem with power conditioners, in general, is that they can't handle a sudden increase in power draw needed by whatever is plugged into them.
> 
> 
> There's nothing wrong with surge protectors, nor with battery backup as a convenience or to help protect devices with moving parts.
> 
> --Bob



So Bob, i take it that you have no 'protection' for your speakers/subs, BD players, power amplifier(s)?


----------



## SimonNo10

Hey dmusoke. I use one of these for my Anthem & Oppo BDP-95:

http://www.thoroughbredaudio.com/SPI240AU6/index.html 


I also have on my main power board outside one of these:

http://www.rkcable.com.au/Clipsal970MF20.htm 


I have that protecting 4 dedicated power outlets that the above powerboard is plugged into. So it's just protecting my HT equipment. My Krell power amp is protected by one of these (15amp version) and has it's own 15amp power outlet in the wall:

http://www.rkcable.com.au/ThorTechCM90.htm


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> So Bob, i take it that you have no 'protection' for your speakers/subs, BD players, power amplifier(s)?



BD player yes (moving parts). Amps sub speakers no.

--Bob


----------



## tizzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21878188
> 
> 
> Same thing happened to me today, same place. Bur the error was "excessive background noise detected" so I thought nothing of it and everything is fine now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since you've gone right back to the pure 'tuner only' setup that worked before, I think you've exhausted the possibility of a digital input screwing up. Unless you feel like trying another analog input, I'd say it's time to reload some firmware. Given that tech support is closed, why not. You could try 2.13g first.
> 
> 
> I have a 50v with 2.13g so feel free to PM me.



I've tried to upgrade installed FW 2.11 with 2.13g on my 50v, but no audio came out of the speakers









How did you managed having 2.13g working?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tizzy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried to upgrade installed FW 2.11 with 2.13g on my 50v, but no audio came out of the speakers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you managed having 2.13g working?



I've never had a lack of audio problem with any version of FW. All I can suggest at this point is to Load Factory Defaults and make sure you are loading 50v FW not D2v FW.


----------



## Texas steve

On my D2V I have 2:11 working fine, tried to upgade to 2.13G and no sound, so your not alone, Hopefully Anthem is aware of this











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21879180
> 
> 
> I've never had a lack of audio problem with any version of FW. All I can suggest at this point is to Load Factory Defaults and make sure you are loading 50v FW not D2v FW.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21878361
> 
> 
> Hey dmusoke. I use one of these for my Anthem & Oppo BDP-95:
> 
> http://www.thoroughbredaudio.com/SPI240AU6/index.html
> 
> 
> I also have on my main power board outside one of these:
> 
> http://www.rkcable.com.au/Clipsal970MF20.htm
> 
> 
> I have that protecting 4 dedicated power outlets that the above powerboard is plugged into. So it's just protecting my HT equipment. My Krell power amp is protected by one of these (15amp version) and has it's own 15amp power outlet in the wall:
> 
> http://www.rkcable.com.au/ThorTechCM90.htm



Thanks Simon ... good for the guys downunder!


----------



## tizzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21879180
> 
> 
> I've never had a lack of audio problem with any version of FW. All I can suggest at this point is to Load Factory Defaults and make sure you are loading 50v FW not D2v FW.



I definitely used AVM 50v 2.13g.exe AND I did the Restore Factory Defaults prior FW upgrade. Rolling back to 2.11 resolved the problem. So, let's hope Anthem is already aware of this misbehavior of the beta FW!


----------



## Umrswimr

It's been a long, long, long time since I visited you fine folks.


My Lexicon DC-1 finally gave up the ghost, which was the precondition for the "boss" to let me replace it. Been poking around and the Anthem D2 looks to be one of the best choices- especially since the D2 (non-v) can be found for under $3k used on Audiogon.

I see the non-V has fewer HDMI inputs, doesn't decode lossless internally, and doesn't support deep color. All of these appear to be unnecessary for my situation since my PS3 handles the HD decoding and I don't GAF about deep color, right?

Anything else I should be worried about before I pull the trigger? The feedback here seems overwhelmingly positive, so I'm about ready to fire up PayPal....

*Gear:*

Samsung LN55A950 (local dimming LCD, no 3D)

Rega Planet

Sony PS3

Velodyne F1800RII sub

Snell E5 F/C/R

Carver A500 and A750 amps (5 channel only, currently)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2 is also limited to 5.1 channel input. If you have a 7.1 speaker setup you can use surround sound processing (e.g., PLIIx) to raise 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output, but you can't get discrete input of the rear channels. The D2 is also limited to 96KHz input which is only important if you are interested in some of the high bit rate music discs and media files out there now.


The D2 doesn't have Dolby Volume. No great loss there.


The video processing in the D2 is a generation older than the D2v. The audio path through the D2 is a generation older than the D2v. Both audio and video is, in my opinion, noticeably improved in the D2v.


The firmware in the D2v has more flexibility in assigning inputs to Source definitions, primarily if you use Analog audio inputs.


When buying a used D2, be sure to check whether it comes with ARC (Anthem Room Correction) and that the seller is able to deliver the ARC items. D2 units were only bundled with ARC late in the life of the D2. For earlier units, ARC was (and still is) a $400 upgrade -- just software and the mic setup, no hardware change needed in the D2. So a used D2 may never have had ARC. ARC is a must have to get the full value from the D2.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Umrswimr* /forum/post/21885524
> 
> 
> It's been a long, long, long time since I visited you fine folks.
> 
> 
> My Lexicon DC-1 finally gave up the ghost, which was the precondition for the "boss" to let me replace it. Been poking around and the Anthem D2 looks to be one of the best choices- especially since the D2 (non-v) can be found for under $3k used on Audiogon.
> 
> I see the non-V has fewer HDMI inputs, doesn't decode lossless internally, and doesn't support deep color. All of these appear to be unnecessary for my situation since my PS3 handles the HD decoding and I don't GAF about deep color, right?
> 
> Anything else I should be worried about before I pull the trigger? The feedback here seems overwhelmingly positive, so I'm about ready to fire up PayPal....
> 
> *Gear:*
> 
> Samsung LN55A950 (local dimming LCD, no 3D)
> 
> Rega Planet
> 
> Sony PS3
> 
> Velodyne F1800RII sub
> 
> Snell E5 F/C/R
> 
> Carver A500 and A750 amps (5 channel only, currently)



I am STILL a D2 Owner and recently did an Upgrade to 3D using

the D2 and Panny 310 with Dual HDMI out.


In my opinion - you only need HDMI for Blu-Ray DVD and Hi-Def

Audio. With the 310 - it solves the Hi-def audio problem.


YOU DO NOT NEED HDMI for any other source that is NOT 1080p

and Copy Protected with Lossless Audio.


I am happy with (4) HDMI ports - just make sure you get a D2

with the ARC Kit.


ALSO you can look at the MRX line as something NEW and much

less expensive than the Statement line.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tizzy* /forum/post/21884447
> 
> 
> I definitely used AVM 50v 2.13g.exe AND I did the Restore Factory Defaults prior FW upgrade. Rolling back to 2.11 resolved the problem. So, let's hope Anthem is already aware of this misbehavior of the beta FW!



From time to time I have no audio (to be more precise, I have to raise the volume level to maximum to hear a very quiet sound) when switched on or changed source on my 50V with 2.13g. Switching 50v off and on restores the normal sound. Sometimes I have HDCP issues as well. So 2.13g is still an unstable beta but at least my OPPO works with it.


----------



## dherrick

I have a D2v that just developed a video issue. It is running firmware version 2.10 and had been running fine until Sunday, when I began noticing blue/green blotches on flesh and skin on my TV picture. It has since gotten worse and now I also have highly distorted picture , video noise in red backgrounds and now have trouble holding an HDMI connection to my TV (Panasonic TC-P65VT30).


This is occurring with both my cable box and Oppo BDP-83 Blu-ray player The cable box (Scientific Atlanta 8300HD) is connected via component video, as it never would successfully HDMI handshake with the D2v and the Oppo is connected to the D2v via HDMI. The output is via HDMI to the TV input. I originally thought that the issues were with the TV but have since isolated the issue to the Anthem.


I have swapped HDMI cables, changed HDMI inputs to the TV. With no improvement. When I bypassed the Anthem and directly connected the cable box and Oppo to the TV via HDMI, the issue goes away, leaving me with the conclusion that the issue is with the D2v. I have also emailed Anthem Tech Support but thought that I'd post here as well to solicit additional advice. Plus I know Nick monitors this forum.


Has anyone seen this before or have any ideas? Thanks in advance for your input.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Get in touch with Anthem tech support. It sounds like you are having problems with the HDMI hardware.


The HDMI circuits are on the main video board, and also on a pair of daughter boards that plug into it (for the upper row of ins and outs). The type of symptoms you are describing can happen if the daughter boards have come loose in their connection to the main board. If that's what's going on, then the fix is as simple as reseating them -- only a bit complicated in that you have to take precautions against static electricity so that you don't zap the boards when you touch them.


It's also possible that a re-install of the firmware could fix this.


Anyway, get in touch with Anthem and they'll walk you through figuring this out. Obviously, one necessary step is confirming your display has not failed -- i.e., plug an HDMI source into the display directly. If the HDMI hardware in the D2v has failed, then of course the unit will need service.


This is NOT the type of video damage that would typically happen if you have bent pins or other damage to the HDMI plugs or sockets themselves. But you can grab a flashlight and give them a careful look (both ends of each cable).

--Bob


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21890828
> 
> 
> ^ Get in touch with Anthem tech support. It sounds like you are having problems with the HDMI hardware.
> 
> 
> The HDMI circuits are on the main video board, and also on a pair of daughter boards that plug into it (for the upper row of ins and outs). The type of symptoms you are describing can happen if the daughter boards have come loose in their connection to the main board. If that's what's going on, then the fix is as simple as reseating them -- only a bit complicated in that you have to take precautions against static electricity so that you don't zap the boards when you touch them.
> 
> 
> It's also possible that a re-install of the firmware could fix this.
> 
> 
> Anyway, get in touch with Anthem and they'll walk you through figuring this out. Obviously, one necessary step is confirming your display has not failed -- i.e., plug an HDMI source into the display directly. If the HDMI hardware in the D2v has failed, then of course the unit will need service.
> 
> 
> This is NOT the type of video damage that would typically happen if you have bent pins or other damage to the HDMI plugs or sockets themselves. But you can grab a flashlight and give them a careful look (both ends of each cable).
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. The display is only a few months old and is fine as I plugged the cable box and Oppo directly into it and all works well.


If the fix is as simple as reseating the connectors then great. I thought of reinstalling the firmware but thought I'd get with the forum and Anthem tech support first.


Thanks for your advice. I will let the forum know how its resolved.


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick* /forum/post/21890963
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. The display is only a few months old and is fine as I plugged the cable box and Oppo directly into it and all works well.
> 
> 
> If the fix is as simple as reseating the connectors then great. I thought of reinstalling the firmware but thought I'd get with the forum and Anthem tech support first.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your advice. I will let the forum know how its resolved.



I spoke with Andrew in Anthem tech support and they believe that it is likely a failed video board or power supply. Either of which require sending it to Anthem. So I will be packing up my unit and sending it in. Thanks, Bob for your input. As always, it is valuable.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21889226
> 
> 
> From time to time I have no audio (to be more precise, I have to raise the volume level to maximum to hear a very quiet sound) when switched on or changed source on my 50V with 2.13g. Switching 50v off and on restores the normal sound. Sometimes I have HDCP issues as well. So 2.13g is still an unstable beta but at least my OPPO works with it.



That bug has been around a LONG time, at least since 2.10


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Umrswimr* /forum/post/21885524
> 
> 
> (5 channel only, currently)



Get the D2, it is a very stable product.


If 7-channel get the 50v which often goes unmentioned - it is almost as good as the D2v and much more stable than any MRX product.


----------



## cvinfig

I've traded several emails with Andrew, done everything he's asked me to try, and still no audio. Thinking "I'm done with this thing" I unplugged the AVM50v and removed it from my entertainment console. When I did I noticed a weird noise that I can produce at will. When I tilt the unit forward and back it sounds like something is sliding around in the case. I had my wife watch as I did this with a flashlight and she couldn't see anything move. I ran upstairs and shook my old Outlaw 990 around and never heard a peep from it. Is the sound of something sliding around inside the Anthem normal??? I'm not about to crack open the case without Andrew's blessing...


----------



## shn750

I just picked up the ARC kit for my D2 from my dealer today. I plan on doing the ARC measurements this weekend. Right now, I'm prepping for the firmware upgrade and hope to have this done before tomorrow. I've ready all the stickies and FAQ on ARC so I "think" I have a good understanding of what to do.


I have a few questions I'm hoping I can get assistance on:


1) Regarding the firmware upgrade. I just checked and I'm running the original firmware v1.11e (yikes). Can I upgrade directly to 1.33 for my D2? I assume yes but wanted to verify.


2) Is the latest ARC software 3.0.2 is compatible with the older D2 firmware 1.33?


3) Using the Live Video Settings Editor that comes with 1.33 to save all my settings, will it automatically detect my currernt settings and all that is needed is to click save? Or will I need some manual intervention to input my settings by scrolling through all my settings menu and then inputting it to LVSE before saving? There's also a "Settings Backup" file in the firmware download. What is this for? Can I also use this to save my current settings.


That's it for now. I'm sure I'll be in panic mode this weekend. Thanks everyone!


Regards,

Steve


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cvinfig* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've traded several emails with Andrew, done everything he's asked me to try, and still no audio. Thinking "I'm done with this thing" I unplugged the AVM50v and removed it from my entertainment console. When I did I noticed a weird noise that I can produce at will. When I tilt the unit forward and back it sounds like something is sliding around in the case. I had my wife watch as I did this with a flashlight and she couldn't see anything move. I ran upstairs and shook my old Outlaw 990 around and never heard a peep from it. Is the sound of something sliding around inside the Anthem normal??? I'm not about to crack open the case without Andrew's blessing...



This is not normal. Mention it to Anthem. Don't give up too soon this is a great unit. You won't regret it.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just picked up the ARC kit for my D2 from my dealer today. I plan on doing the ARC measurements this weekend. Right now, I'm prepping for the firmware upgrade and hope to have this done before tomorrow. I've ready all the stickies and FAQ on ARC so I "think" I have a good understanding of what to do.
> 
> 
> I have a few questions I'm hoping I can get assistance on:
> 
> 
> 1) Regarding the firmware upgrade. I just checked and I'm running the original firmware v1.11e (yikes). Can I upgrade directly to 1.33 for my D2? I assume yes but wanted to verify.
> 
> 
> 2) Is the latest ARC software 3.0.2 is compatible with the older D2 firmware 1.33?
> 
> 
> 3) Using the Live Video Settings Editor that comes with 1.33 to save all my settings, will it automatically detect my currernt settings and all that is needed is to click save? Or will I need some manual intervention to input my settings by scrolling through all my settings menu and then inputting it to LVSE before saving?
> 
> 
> That's it for now. I'm sure I'll be in panic mode this weekend. Thanks everyone!
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Steve



1. Yes

2. Yes

3. Not sure


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cvinfig* /forum/post/21896553
> 
> 
> I've traded several emails with Andrew, done everything he's asked me to try, and still no audio. Thinking "I'm done with this thing" I unplugged the AVM50v and removed it from my entertainment console. When I did I noticed a weird noise that I can produce at will. When I tilt the unit forward and back it sounds like something is sliding around in the case. I had my wife watch as I did this with a flashlight and she couldn't see anything move. I ran upstairs and shook my old Outlaw 990 around and never heard a peep from it. Is the sound of something sliding around inside the Anthem normal??? I'm not about to crack open the case without Andrew's blessing...



No that's not normal. It may just be coincidence -- perhaps a loose mounting screw in the bottom of the chassis that has nothing at all to do with your audio problem -- but since you've tried everything else, it certainly seems worth investigating.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Just a stab but are you sure it's not the buttons at the front moving in and out? I also thought my D2v had something loose inside but turned out it was the front buttons moving when I tilted it backwards and fowards?


----------



## p.las

i have just reading about the cutt off in ARC regarding pass true etc.


is it right that , how matter i sets the cutt off ,ARC will always set pass true to on.?


i am running a system with M&K poweret speakers. i hav eeksperimentet with aditionels cross overs, and always ending up with 80hz - best sound for all speakers. But what about sub cutt off? IF i set it on 120hz , uploading. Chekking the skema, it says 80hz. If i set it to 80hz, it will read 80hz in the settings skema in my AVM50v.

from what i have read, sub cuff off is the same as max freq arc will correct. But what about the targetcurve that ARC is made? there is a roll off from 80hz if this this what i setting the sub cutt off to.


why can i not set the sub roll off to 80hz , like THX recomended - by all means, this is a THX aproved unit.

Forgive my bad english


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The THX recommendation is a "one size fits all" suggestion that does not take into account the actual abilities of your speakers or how room characteristics are affecting the audio from your speakers.


80Hz is not some magic number that always works best. But for folks who have no ability to measure what's really going on in their setup, 80Hz is a better "guess" than something significantly higher or lower.


In addition, when THX attempts to "certify" equipment -- i.e., attempts to prove by testing (for marketing purposes) that the equipment meets some minimum level of capability -- part of the problem is that the certain settings have to be assumed for such testing to make any sense at all. For certification, THX requires main speakers and subwoofers to function "properly" when set up with an 80Hz crossover.


That doesn't mean they can't ALSO work properly with a crossover higher or lower, but just that they are TESTED against an assumed 80Hz crossover.


---------------------------------------


When you use ARC, the green "Calculated" curve for the Subwoofer shows the expected output response of the Subwoofer as seen by LFE content. As you can see by experimenting, the shape of that curve will change if you alter the Subwoofer's "Cutoff" frequency setting.


In addition to LFE content (i.e., the .1 channel in 5.1 or 7.1 content), the Subwoofer will ALSO play bass steered from the main speakers. And the Subwoofer's output response for that bass will also be represented by the Subwoofer's Calculated curve. HOWEVER, there is one big difference. The bass sent to the Subwoofer from the main speakers is sent according to THEIR settings (Crossover and Cutoff).


So steered bass and LFE bass are handled differently. The higher frequency LFE bass is not attenuated AS IF it was coming from a main speaker channel as steered bass.


----------------------------------------------


If you want to force the Subwoofer to attenuate its output above 80Hz you can lower its Cutoff setting. However that may very well not be as good a bass management solution as what ARC selects. In particular, higher frequency LFE content will be discarded, and, if your main speakers are not actually capable of producing good output down to 40Hz (1 octave below that Crossover) then there will be something of a "hole" in the steered bass management where the Sub can't take over and handle the bass the main speakers can't produce well themselves.


Alternatively, you could turn on the crossover built into the sub itself -- thus eliminating its capability to output higher bass. When you next Measure, ARC will see that poorer high bass output from the Sub, will decide the Sub is "less capable" in high bass output, and will adjust its use of the Subwoofer accordingly. Effectively you have turned your Subwoofer into a lower performing device -- one that is incapable of reproducing higher bass frequencies.


--------------------------------------


It's also important not to assume too much according to the numbers you see as Cutoff and Crossover. That's because the ACTUAL implementation also includes cuts and boosts arising from the Room Correction parameters. Rather than making assumptions about the underlying implementation, judge what you are getting based on the shape of the Calculated curves in the ARC charts, and, of course, what you are hearing when you do listening tests.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21898578
> 
> 
> ^ The THX recommendation is a "one size fits all" suggestion that does not take into account the actual abilities of your speakers or how room characteristics are affecting the audio from your speakers.
> 
> 
> 80Hz is not some magic number that always works best. But for folks who have no ability to measure what's really going on in their setup, 80Hz is a better "guess" than something significantly higher or lower.
> 
> 
> In addition, when THX attempts to "certify" equipment -- i.e., attempts to prove by testing (for marketing purposes) that the equipment meets some minimum level of capability -- part of the problem is that the certain settings have to be assumed for such testing to make any sense at all. For certification, THX requires main speakers and subwoofers to function "properly" when set up with an 80Hz crossover.
> 
> 
> That doesn't mean they can't ALSO work properly with a crossover higher or lower, but just that they are TESTED against an assumed 80Hz crossover.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------
> 
> 
> When you use ARC, the green "Calculated" curve for the Subwoofer shows the expected output response of the Subwoofer as seen by LFE content. As you can see by experimenting, the shape of that curve will change if you alter the Subwoofer's "Cutoff" frequency setting.
> 
> 
> In addition to LFE content (i.e., the .1 channel in 5.1 or 7.1 content), the Subwoofer will ALSO play bass steered from the main speakers. And the Subwoofer's output response for that bass will also be represented by the Subwoofer's Calculated curve. HOWEVER, there is one big difference. The bass sent to the Subwoofer from the main speakers is sent according to THEIR settings (Crossover and Cutoff).
> 
> 
> So steered bass and LFE bass are handled differently. The higher frequency LFE bass is not attenuated AS IF it was coming from a main speaker channel as steered bass.
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> If you want to force the Subwoofer to attenuate its output above 80Hz you can lower its Cutoff setting. However that may very well not be as good a bass management solution as what ARC selects. In particular, higher frequency LFE content will be discarded, and, if your main speakers are not actually capable of producing good output down to 40Hz (1 octave below that Crossover) then there will be something of a "hole" in the steered bass management where the Sub can't take over and handle the bass the main speakers can't produce well themselves.
> 
> 
> Alternatively, you could turn on the crossover built into the sub itself -- thus eliminating its capability to output higher bass. When you next Measure, ARC will see that poorer high bass output from the Sub, will decide the Sub is "less capable" in high bass output, and will adjust its use of the Subwoofer accordingly. Effectively you have turned your Subwoofer into a lower performing device -- one that is incapable of reproducing higher bass frequencies.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 
> It's also important not to assume too much according to the numbers you see as Cutoff and Crossover. That's because the ACTUAL implementation also includes cuts and boosts arising from the Room Correction parameters. Rather than making assumptions about the underlying implementation, judge what you are getting based on the shape of the Calculated curves in the ARC charts, and, of course, what you are hearing when you do listening tests.
> 
> --Bob



Okay - thanks.


When i set All speakers in ARC to 80hx expect sub cutt off - that i set to 120hz. When i upload the parameters , and check the uploaded sub cutt off, ARC have set it to 80hz ........why.


What shal i set sub cutt off frekvens to 80 or 120hz


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ This is normal. Sub Crossover is selected by ARC according to what is needed to make bass steering work best from the main speakers. That may very well be different from a setting you pick for Sub Cutoff. They are two different things.


For the main speakers, ARC lets you control their Crossovers by setting their Cutoffs. But ARC has to be able to pick the Sub Crossover on its own based on what works best given the Measured data and the settings for the Mains. If not, it can't build a solution (the problem is "over constrained").


Raising Sub Cutoff to 120 is good if the resulting Calculated solution LOOKS good. That is, if there are no significant residual errors left between the Sub's Calculated curve and the Sub's Target curve in the charts. If ARC can't fully correct the Sub because you have set its Cutoff too high, then you either need to back off that Cutoff choice or reposition the Sub so less correction is needed. Such errors may show anywhere in the bass range; not just at the higher bass frequency end.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

D2v and AVM 50v "test" firmware V2.14 is up on Anthem's password protected download page. Based on the number, it looks like Anthem may be thinking of this one as a "Release Candidate" -- and indeed the change notes label it as that. Compared to the prior "test" firmware, it contains "minor" HDMI fixes primarily for the non-upgraded, 2D hardware.


As always, "test" firmware is not finished yet. Do not install it unless you are OK with the possibility of unpleasant surprises, perhaps requiring you to revert back.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21904003
> 
> 
> D2v and AVM 50v "test" firmware V2.14 is up on Anthem's password protected download page. Based on the number, it looks like Anthem may be thinking of this one as a "Release Candidate" -- and indeed the change notes label it as that. Compared to the prior "test" firmware, it contains "minor" HDMI fixes primarily for the non-upgraded, 2D hardware.
> 
> 
> As always, "test" firmware is not finished yet. Do not install it unless you are OK with the possibility of unpleasant surprises, perhaps requiring you to revert back.
> 
> --Bob



This version is going to be used on production units.

John


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21904066
> 
> 
> This version is going to be used on production units.
> 
> John



Did not notice any improvement in HDCP handshake with 2.14 so far (50V), same bugs as with 2.13g. Will be testing more.


----------



## shn750

I just got my ARC kit for my D2 and getting ready to spend the weekend playing with ARC. It looks like I'm already having problems with ARC and I haven't even done any measurements yet.


I'm running windows XP. I'm trying to install the ARC software that came with my ARC kit. Click on setup, Select D2v, follow the prompts, hit next, the install starts. Then errors out with "Source file not found: D:\\AnthemRoomCorrection.exe. manifest. Verify that the source file exists and that you can acccess it." I click Try Again but no joy.


I browse the CD and it does have this file listed. Any ideas?


Thanks

Steve


----------



## shn750

I ended up downloaded the ARC application from the Anthem site. Copied the two serialized files that came with the CD into the download directory. Did the setup and it worked. Crisis averted. Whew. Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I ended up downloaded the ARC application from the Anthem site. Copied the two serialized files that came with the CD into the download directory. Did the setup and it worked. Crisis averted. Whew. Thanks



That is what we always recommend. Glad it worked.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21904701
> 
> 
> I ended up downloaded the ARC application from the Anthem site. Copied the two serialized files that came with the CD into the download directory. Did the setup and it worked. Crisis averted. Whew. Thanks



If the ARC install CD you were using was original to the D2 you just got, then it is probably REALLY old. I'm not surprised the installer on it was having some problems.


You did the correct thing getting the newest version from the Anthem site and installing as you did. Good for you for figuring this out!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I installed "test" firmware V2.14 in my D2v with the Beta 3D HDMI hardware and it appears to be working, EXCEPT that one bug reported fixed in the change notes (Video ADC Settings non-functional) does *NOT* appear to be fixed.


I have a mix of Source devices using both the new and the old HDMI inputs, but of course only using the new HDMI output. So I can't really report results that would directly duplicate running this firmware on a non-upgraded D2v. But for what it is worth, the old style HDMI inputs (HDMI 5-8), appear to be working.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

I would be intrested in anyone with a D2V who installed this on a non 3D version. The one problem I have had after 2.11 to G was always no HDMI output (it would not see the inputs) but FM worked fine. Went back to 2.11 and all good again.


So, anyone triy 2.14 with non 3d yet?











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21904929
> 
> 
> I installed "test" firmware V2.14 in my D2v with the Beta 3D HDMI hardware and it appears to be working, EXCEPT that one bug reported fixed in the change notes (Video ADC Settings non-functional) does *NOT* appear to be fixed.
> 
> 
> I have a mix of Source devices using both the new and the old HDMI inputs, but of course only using the new HDMI output. So I can't really report results that would directly duplicate running this firmware on a non-upgraded D2v. But for what it is worth, the old style HDMI inputs (HDMI 5-8), appear to be working.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21298876
> 
> 
> Anyone heard the new Anthem Signature M1 amps or seen a comprehensive listening review on them?
> 
> Anthem recently announced this new concept and design for a Class D amp but they are nowhere to be found or heard.



Have you heard anything yet Stu? I have read all the specs on the Statement M1 but can't find any talk about them and am interested in getting a few.


----------



## Murat

I guess this might have been discussed somewhere in this huge thread, but I'll ask again










-Can the 3D HDMI upgrade for D2v installed by the dealers/users?


-When will it be finally available and at what cost?


Thank You


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/21906088
> 
> 
> I guess this might have been discussed somewhere in this huge thread, but I'll ask again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Can the 3D HDMI upgrade for D2v installed by the dealers/users?
> 
> 
> -When will it be finally available and at what cost?
> 
> 
> Thank You



1. Yes... but so can the user if they want.


2. I believe the last price i read about in this forum was about $2K. Bob P and others can confirm.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Yes... but so can the user if they want.
> 
> 
> 2. I believe the last price i read about in this forum was about $2K. Bob P and others can confirm.



$500 is the last estimate from Anthem.

John


----------



## Murat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21906238
> 
> 
> $500 is the last estimate from Anthem.
> 
> John




2K for such an upgrade was kinda steep










Any idea when??


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 2K for such an upgrade was kinda steep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea when??



Not sure. Email Anthem.

John


----------



## Texas steve

Ok loaded 2.14 on D2V w/o 3d boards. All works good EXCEPT one strange thing. In all HDMI inputs my Driect TV will NOT work except HDMI1 (get picture but no sound) . Every other HDMI device (oppo 83 etc) works in all other HDMI inputs but not the Direct TV. strange!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21906005
> 
> 
> I would be intrested in anyone with a D2V who installed this on a non 3D version. The one problem I have had after 2.11 to G was always no HDMI output (it would not see the inputs) but FM worked fine. Went back to 2.11 and all good again.
> 
> 
> So, anyone triy 2.14 with non 3d yet?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes, that's very strange given the way the hardware is configured and the way the firmware works. At the very least sockets 1-4 should react the same and sockets 5-8 should react the same.


I'd think it more likely that you are missing something when you change the Source Setup to account for the new socket. Or perhaps the cable you are using from the DirecTV box has a problem (bent pins or marginal mechanical fit).

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

Set up as same as 2.11 all I did was upgrade (following the "Deluxe Bob" written procedure). I keept the connections the same so it should have worked. But when I swapped the DTV to HDMI-1 and changed the source accordingly it worked. Strange! so, since it works as is Ill leave it that way.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21906906
> 
> 
> ^ Yes, that's very strange given the way the hardware is configured and the way the firmware works. At the very least sockets 1-4 should react the same and sockets 5-8 should react the same.
> 
> 
> I'd think it more likely that you are missing something when you change the Source Setup to account for the new socket. Or perhaps the cable you are using from the DirecTV box has a problem (bent pins or marginal mechanical fit).
> 
> --Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Did you actually try the other ports besides the original and #1?


The problem may be the DirecTV box "remembering" the old setup so it does not handshake fully. I.E., if you go back to the original port it may now work again.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve

yep sure did, and I would get picture only, no sound (I did change the configuration as well so there should have been sound). But is works in port 1 for some reason, so Im just going to leave it there!











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21906959
> 
> 
> ^ Did you actually try the other ports besides the original and #1?
> 
> 
> The problem may be the DirecTV box "remembering" the old setup so it does not handshake fully. I.E., if you go back to the original port it may now work again.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## shn750

I finally got my first ARC run completed on my D2. The actual ARC installation and setup was a breeze. Zero problems!


My first measurement took almost 3 hours. I'm using 9 mic positions and it kept informing me that the sub variance was over 10 points between the positions. This was what took forever to fix. It was pure trial and error. I was moving the sub around in an attempt to get the variance in db to come under 10 points between the mic positions. After a multitude of measurements, I finally decided to move my sub from the left to the right side of the room. This was a pain because I had to reroute my cables and tear apart all my cable management. I was desperate! My room is odd with angular walls and high ceilings so I really didn't know what to expect. I ran the measurements from scratch and it completed! Yes!


Next I ran the targets, calculated, and uploaded. After ARC is uploaded I had to go into the set up for Source setup and turn on Room EQ=Yes for all the sources. Is this correct? Otherwise, ARC isn't in affect for the D2 correct? I spent all week reading the stickies and FAQs but I want to confirm that what I did was correct.


So...I'm a complete newbie and can't make heads or tails from the results. I'm hoping the ARC experts help out with any recommendations on how it looks? For the sub, I just left it at its current position after moving it. At that point I was happy that the measurements completed and didn't want to mess with it.


So here are the graphs...Is it bad?!? Bear in mind I'm kind of limited on the LCR speakers as these are Signature W5 on walls. I can only rotate them left/right and up/down for the center.


Thanks everyone! This forum rocks.

Steve


----------



## dweltman

One thing I find strange about the D2V is how a firmware reinstall will banish a case of the HDMi grelims that periodically show up. I can understand how a firmware upgrade might address a specific handshake issue, but reinstalling the same firmware?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I finally got my first ARC run completed on my D2. The actual ARC installation and setup was a breeze. Zero problems!
> 
> 
> My first measurement took almost 3 hours. I'm using 9 mic positions and it kept informing me that the sub variance was over 10 points between the positions. This was what took forever to fix. It was pure trial and error. I was moving the sub around in an attempt to get the variance in db to come under 10 points between the mic positions. After a multitude of measurements, I finally decided to move my sub from the left to the right side of the room. This was a pain because I had to reroute my cables and tear apart all my cable management. I was desperate! My room is odd with angular walls and high ceilings so I really didn't know what to expect. I ran the measurements from scratch and it completed! Yes!
> 
> 
> Next I ran the targets, calculated, and uploaded. After ARC is uploaded I had to go into the set up for Source setup and turn on Room EQ=Yes for all the sources. Is this correct? Otherwise, ARC isn't in affect for the D2 correct? I spent all week reading the stickies and FAQs but I want to confirm that what I did was correct.
> 
> 
> So...I'm a complete newbie and can't make heads or tails from the results. I'm hoping the ARC experts help out with any recommendations on how it looks? For the sub, I just left it at its current position after moving it. At that point I was happy that the measurements completed and didn't want to mess with it.
> 
> 
> So here are the graphs...Is it bad?!? Bear in mind I'm kind of limited on the LCR speakers as these are Signature W5 on walls. I can only rotate them left/right and up/down for the center.
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone! This forum rocks.



Your results are excellent. Listen for a while and let us know how it sounds. You found a great spot for your sub

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

And yes, setting Room EQ = ON for each and every Source Is the correct thing to do to enable your shiny new ARC solution!


If you have any Analog audio sources, you must also use ANALOG-DSP for them in Source Setup, not ANALOG-DIRECT. That lets them use ARC as well.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21907726
> 
> 
> your results are excellent. Listen for a while and let us know how it sounds. You found a great spot for your sub
> 
> john



+1



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bob pariseau* /forum/post/21907739
> 
> 
> and yes, setting room eq = on for each and every source is the correct thing to do to enable your shiny new arc solution!
> 
> 
> If you have any analog audio sources, you must also use analog-dsp for them in source setup, not analog-direct. That lets them use arc as well.
> 
> --bob



+1


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21907630
> 
> 
> I finally got my first ARC run completed on my D2. The actual ARC installation and setup was a breeze. Zero problems!
> 
> 
> My first measurement took almost 3 hours. I'm using 9 mic positions and it kept informing me that the sub variance was over 10 points between the positions. This was what took forever to fix. It was pure trial and error. I was moving the sub around in an attempt to get the variance in db to come under 10 points between the mic positions. After a multitude of measurements, I finally decided to move my sub from the left to the right side of the room. This was a pain because I had to reroute my cables and tear apart all my cable management. I was desperate! My room is odd with angular walls and high ceilings so I really didn't know what to expect. I ran the measurements from scratch and it completed! Yes!
> 
> 
> Next I ran the targets, calculated, and uploaded. After ARC is uploaded I had to go into the set up for Source setup and turn on Room EQ=Yes for all the sources. Is this correct? Otherwise, ARC isn't in affect for the D2 correct? I spent all week reading the stickies and FAQs but I want to confirm that what I did was correct.
> 
> 
> So...I'm a complete newbie and can't make heads or tails from the results. I'm hoping the ARC experts help out with any recommendations on how it looks? For the sub, I just left it at its current position after moving it. At that point I was happy that the measurements completed and didn't want to mess with it.
> 
> 
> So here are the graphs...Is it bad?!? Bear in mind I'm kind of limited on the LCR speakers as these are Signature W5 on walls. I can only rotate them left/right and up/down for the center.
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone! This forum rocks.
> 
> Steve



Like Jayray said, you finally found a good spot for you sub.

If you open ARC in the 'manual' mode you will see an option at the top labeled 'help'.

In 'help' is a 'quick measure' option that allows you to test one speaker at a time. This can be very helpful, especially when positioning a subwoofer.


Also make sure that you took the time to set your 'noise level'/'test level' and sub to @75db in the 'speaker leve calibrationl' section of the D2 setup menu.


If the speaker levels that ARC uploaded are off by more than a few db from each other (especially if you have matched speakers like you do) then the error message you were getting may have been due to the fact that you didn't set you 'noise level' and sub to 75db before running ARC.

The levels that ARC uploaded to your 'speaker level' ( think thats what the D2 setup menu calls it) or 'level calibration' (D2v) should have the sub within a few db of the other speakers.

If ARC needed to +/- the sub more than a few db from the other speakers then you may want to get out your trusty RS spl and set the 'noise level' and sub level to 75db the next time you run ARC. And I bet you'll run it again if your looking on the 'tweaking thread'.










Depending on the size of your room you may not need to run 9 mic positions. If you have a large HT with multiple levels 9 is a good idea. If you have a small/med HT, 5 mic positions may be enough. More is certainly better, but don't do more than you need.


Yes, you need to make sure that 'room eq' is on for the sources you want ARC to work in. Arc will not work in sources set to 'analog'. If you have a source, (like cd or 2ch balanced or 6ch) you will need to set it to 'analog DSP' in order to use ARC for that source.


Bottom line is your graphs look good.

How does it sound?

Sit back and enjoy it for a while before you re-tweak.

There's plenty of time to make minor adjustments.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/21906020
> 
> 
> Have you heard anything yet Stu? I have read all the specs on the Statement M1 but can't find any talk about them and am interested in getting a few.



I have been unable to find anyone who has them or has written any kind of report on how they sound.

The May/June 2012 issue of the Absolute Sound has interviews with 9 notable designers of high end amplifiers and the majority state a Class D amp is not the way to go. Maybe someone from Anthem will respond here to the status of their new amps.

I'll contact my Anthem dealer and see if any demo units are to be made available.

I am going to The Show in Newport Beach in June but for unknown reasons Anthem and Paradigm are never represented.


----------



## shn750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21907840
> 
> 
> Like Jayray said, you finally found a good spot for you sub.
> 
> If you open ARC in the 'manual' mode you will see an option at the top labeled 'help'.
> 
> In 'help' is a 'quick measure' option that allows you to test one speaker at a time. This can be very helpful, especially when positioning a subwoofer.
> 
> 
> Also make sure that you took the time to set your 'noise level'/'test level' and sub to @75db in the 'speaker leve calibrationl' section of the D2 setup menu.
> 
> 
> If the speaker levels that ARC uploaded are off by more than a few db from each other (especially if you have matched speakers like you do) then the error message you were getting may have been due to the fact that you didn't set you 'noise level' and sub to 75db before running ARC.
> 
> The levels that ARC uploaded to your 'speaker level' ( think thats what the D2 setup menu calls it) or 'level calibration' (D2v) should have the sub within a few db of the other speakers.
> 
> If ARC needed to +/- the sub more than a few db from the other speakers then you may want to get out your trusty RS spl and set the 'noise level' and sub level to 75db the next time you run ARC. And I bet you'll run it again if your looking on the 'tweaking thread'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the size of your room you may not need to run 9 mic positions. If you have a large HT with multiple levels 9 is a good idea. If you have a small/med HT, 5 mic positions may be enough. More is certainly better, but don't do more than you need.
> 
> 
> Yes, you need to make sure that 'room eq' is on for the sources you want ARC to work in. Arc will not work in sources set to 'analog'. If you have a source, (like cd or 2ch balanced or 6ch) you will need to set it to 'analog DSP' in order to use ARC for that source.
> 
> 
> Bottom line is your graphs look good.
> 
> How does it sound?
> 
> Sit back and enjoy it for a while before you re-tweak.
> 
> There's plenty of time to make minor adjustments.
> 
> 
> Tom



Thanks tngiloy, Jayray, Bob and everyone that has helped. Your pointers are extremely helpful and I'll probably run ARC again tomorrow just for kicks







It's actually fun tweaking around. I'll leave the sub where it's at for now, but I think I'm going to be more consistient with mic positioning on my next run. My HT room is medium size so maybe I'll try less mic positions.


For now, I'm watching movies and listen to music to see how the results are. So far, I'm pretty impressed. I had no idea that my previous sub position might have been less than ideal. Now the bass isn't as boomy and definitely an improvement to my ears. Before, on certaiin content, I can hear where the bass is coming from. Now it blends in the room better. I want to keep an ear on this to see if its really better. I want to make sure it's not the placebo effect so early in the game.


Thanks again.

Steve


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21907894
> 
> 
> Thanks tngiloy, Jayray, Bob and everyone that has helped. Your pointers are extremely helpful and I'll probably run ARC again tomorrow just for kicks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's actually fun tweaking around. I'll leave the sub where it's at for now, but I think I'm going to be more consistient with mic positioning on my next run. My HT room is medium size so maybe I'll try less mic positions.
> 
> 
> For now, I'm watching movies and listen to music to see how the results are. So far, I'm pretty impressed. I had no idea that my previous sub position might have been less than ideal. Now the bass isn't as boomy and definitely an improvement to my ears. Before, on certaiin content, I can hear where the bass is coming from. Now it blends in the room better. I want to keep an ear on this to see if its really better. I want to make sure it's not the placebo effect so early in the game.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> Steve



Steve:


As other have said:

1. Make sure you test level is set to give an SPL of 75dB in the anthem setup menu. Your graphs show the reference SPL is 65dB.


2. In the Targets menu, Advanced Settings option, set the subwoofer HPF to Flat, instead of Auto. It'll extend and flatten out your subwoofer frequency response in the lower registers.


Happy Listening ....

David


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21906460
> 
> 
> Ok loaded 2.14 on D2V w/o 3d boards. All works good EXCEPT one strange thing. In all HDMI inputs my Driect TV will NOT work except HDMI1 (get picture but no sound) . Every other HDMI device (oppo 83 etc) works in all other HDMI inputs but not the Direct TV. strange!



My Moxi cable box hiccups a greater deal using v2.14 than 2.10 when i loose audio but retain video. I have to force a handshake which sometimes works else i power cycle the D2v.


David


----------



## shn750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21908127
> 
> 
> Steve:
> 
> 
> As other have said:
> 
> 1. Make sure you test level is set to give an SPL of 75dB in the anthem setup menu. Your graphs show the reference SPL is 65dB.
> 
> 
> 2. In the Targets menu, Advanced Settings option, set the subwoofer HPF to Flat, instead of Auto. It'll extend and flatten out your subwoofer frequency response in the lower registers.
> 
> 
> Happy Listening ....
> 
> David



dmusoke,


Thanks for the advice. I did use a SPL to measure the test tone on the LF speaker and sub. I set those to 75db. When the SPL registered 75db, to my ears it did sounded a little low. Maybe I need to change the batteries since it was sitting in storage for several years










So my question is:

1. Once I reset my test tone for the LF and sub, Will I need to re-run ARC?

2. In the target menu>Advanced settings. When I change the sub from auto to Flat, will I need to re-run ARC? Or do I just recalculate and then upload?


Best Regards,

Steve


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21908159
> 
> 
> dmusoke,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice. *I did use a SPL to measure the test tone on the LF speaker and sub.* I set those to 75db. When the SPL registered 75db, to my ears it did sounded a little low. Maybe I need to change the batteries since it was sitting in storage for several years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my question is:
> 
> 1. Once I reset my test tone for the LF and sub, Will I need to re-run ARC?
> 
> 2. In the target menu>Advanced settings. When I change the sub from auto to Flat, will I need to re-run ARC? Or do I just recalculate and then upload?
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Steve



Just to be clear, the LF and sub should be set to '0' in the 'level calibration' section of the D2 setup menu--and stay set to '0'. In fact I find it easier to set all the speaker and sub levels to '0' initially.
*The adjustment is made in the 'noise level' line (5b).* The 'noise level' uses the LF to send tones, but make sure not to change the level in the 'front-L' line(5c).

The adjustment is similar for the sub. The 'movie sub' and 'music sub' (5j-k) are set to, and stay set to, '0'. The adjustment for the sub level is done by raising or lowering the gain/volume by using the adjustment on the sub itself.


ARC will make volume level adjustments for all the speakers relative to each other for the primary listening spot, which is ARC mic position #1. After your ARC upload, the values for all the speaker levels will probably change from the '0' setting. The setting for the 'noise level' will not change, but stay at the setting you made to get it to 75db.


To answer your other questions:

1- Yes

2- No. The adjustments to the settings in ARC (flat, max eq, room gain, etc) can be played with to see how the graphs look with different values you choose before you upload to your D2.

Just go into the 'targets' window for your ARC file, make the changes, click on 'OK', the click on 'Calculate'. The new graphs will show the ARC solution for those values.

To get back to the original ARC values: go back into the 'targets' window and click on 'auto detect'.

No changes are made to the ARC solution in your D2 until you upload it.

*Trust ARC to choose the correct values*. There are very few of the setting that should be changed IMHO.

Setting your sub to flat is one of those changes, as long as your sub has internal protection. Most subs do, but if you have a question please check before changing it to flat.

Raising room gain is another, if ARC sets it low. I think yours is at or near the max, so you can leave it alone.

Raising the ' max freq' is another, but the default 5000 setting is usually the best choice.


But the nice thing about ARC is that you can make adjustments and look at them. If they look good, you can upload and listen. If they sound good you can keep them. If not you can easily revert back to different or original settings.

ARC is a great program.


Tom


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21908159
> 
> 
> dmusoke,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice. I did use a SPL to measure the test tone on the LF speaker and sub. I set those to 75db. When the SPL registered 75db, to my ears it did sounded a little low. Maybe I need to change the batteries since it was sitting in storage for several years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my question is:
> 
> 1. Once I reset my test tone for the LF and sub, Will I need to re-run ARC?
> 
> 2. In the target menu>Advanced settings. When I change the sub from auto to Flat, will I need to re-run ARC? Or do I just recalculate and then upload?
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Steve





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21908971
> 
> 
> Just to be clear, the LF and sub should be set to '0' in the 'level calibration' section of the D2 setup menu--and stay set to '0'. In fact I find it easier to set all the speaker and sub levels to '0' initially.
> *The adjustment is made in the 'noise level' line (5b).* The 'noise level' uses the LF to send tones, but make sure not to change the level in the 'front-L' line(5c).
> 
> The adjustment is similar for the sub. The 'movie sub' and 'music sub' (5j-k) are set to, and stay set to, '0'. The adjustment for the sub level is done by raising or lowering the gain/volume by using the adjustment on the sub itself.
> 
> 
> ARC will make volume level adjustments for all the speakers relative to each other for the primary listening spot, which is ARC mic position #1. After your ARC upload, the values for all the speaker levels will probably change from the '0' setting. The setting for the 'noise level' will not change, but stay at the setting you made to get it to 75db.
> 
> 
> To answer your other questions:
> 
> 1- Yes
> 
> 2- No. The adjustments to the settings in ARC (flat, max eq, room gain, etc) can be played with to see how the graphs look with different values you choose before you upload to your D2.
> 
> Just go into the 'targets' window for your ARC file, make the changes, click on 'OK', the click on 'Calculate'. The new graphs will show the ARC solution for those values.
> 
> To get back to the original ARC values: go back into the 'targets' window and click on 'auto detect'.
> 
> No changes are made to the ARC solution in your D2 until you upload it.
> 
> *Trust ARC to choose the correct values*. There are very few of the setting that should be changed IMHO.
> 
> Setting your sub to flat is one of those changes, as long as your sub has internal protection. Most subs do, but if you have a question please check before changing it to flat.
> 
> Raising room gain is another, if ARC sets it low. I think yours is at or near the max, so you can leave it alone.
> 
> Raising the ' max freq' is another, but the default 5000 setting is usually the best choice.
> 
> 
> But the nice thing about ARC is that you can make adjustments and look at them. If they look good, you can upload and listen. If they sound good you can keep them. If not you can easily revert back to different or original settings.
> 
> ARC is a great program.
> 
> 
> Tom



I couldn't have said it any better Tom. Well said indeed


----------



## shn750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21908971
> 
> 
> Just to be clear, the LF and sub should be set to '0' in the 'level calibration' section of the D2 setup menu--and stay set to '0'. In fact I find it easier to set all the speaker and sub levels to '0' initially.
> *The adjustment is made in the 'noise level' line (5b).* The 'noise level' uses the LF to send tones, but make sure not to change the level in the 'front-L' line(5c).
> 
> The adjustment is similar for the sub. The 'movie sub' and 'music sub' (5j-k) are set to, and stay set to, '0'. The adjustment for the sub level is done by raising or lowering the gain/volume by using the adjustment on the sub itself.
> 
> 
> ARC will make volume level adjustments for all the speakers relative to each other for the primary listening spot, which is ARC mic position #1. After your ARC upload, the values for all the speaker levels will probably change from the '0' setting. The setting for the 'noise level' will not change, but stay at the setting you made to get it to 75db.
> 
> 
> To answer your other questions:
> 
> 1- Yes
> 
> 2- No. The adjustments to the settings in ARC (flat, max eq, room gain, etc) can be played with to see how the graphs look with different values you choose before you upload to your D2.
> 
> Just go into the 'targets' window for your ARC file, make the changes, click on 'OK', the click on 'Calculate'. The new graphs will show the ARC solution for those values.
> 
> To get back to the original ARC values: go back into the 'targets' window and click on 'auto detect'.
> 
> No changes are made to the ARC solution in your D2 until you upload it.
> 
> *Trust ARC to choose the correct values*. There are very few of the setting that should be changed IMHO.
> 
> Setting your sub to flat is one of those changes, as long as your sub has internal protection. Most subs do, but if you have a question please check before changing it to flat.
> 
> Raising room gain is another, if ARC sets it low. I think yours is at or near the max, so you can leave it alone.
> 
> Raising the ' max freq' is another, but the default 5000 setting is usually the best choice.
> 
> 
> But the nice thing about ARC is that you can make adjustments and look at them. If they look good, you can upload and listen. If they sound good you can keep them. If not you can easily revert back to different or original settings.
> 
> ARC is a great program.
> 
> 
> Tom



I re-ran ARC today and verified that the all the speakers and sub levels were set to zero. I used the SPL and set the noise level (line 5b) to 75db. I also used the sub's internal controls to set the volume to 75db at the 1st mic position. By the way, this was the same process that I did on the first ARC run.


Once completed, the targets and calculations looked pretty similar to the first ARC run. The graphs are still showing at volume level of around 65-67db. Is this correct? Should I just trust ARC with this volume level despite having set the noise level to 75db before running ARC?


Thanks

Steve


----------



## fuzzybk

Does arc 3.02 still have the 3db Centre channel problem with DTS HD Master audio or was that a firmware 2.10 problem?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21910467
> 
> 
> I re-ran ARC today and verified that the all the speakers and sub levels were set to zero. I used the SPL and set the noise level (line 5b) to 75db. I also used the sub's internal controls to set the volume to 75db at the 1st mic position. By the way, this was the same process that I did on the first ARC run.
> 
> 
> Once completed, the targets and calculations looked pretty similar to the first ARC run. The graphs are still showing at volume level of around 65-67db. Is this correct? Should I just trust ARC with this volume level despite having set the noise level to 75db before running ARC?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve



Steve:


Unfortunately, some have reported that 10dB error bug between what the ARC graph plots show and what the SPL meter displays. To my knowledge, Anthem has no idea what the cause is, let alone a solution to fix it.


The 75dB reference level corresponds to a volume setting of -10dB on the D2 processor. In the end, trust your ears. If it sounds low, just increase the volume level or re-do ARC with an 85dB reference level.


BTW, what was your reference level offset in line 5b, the one needed to get the 75dB output level?


----------



## spiderv6

V2.14 successfully installed on a non-3D D2V.


Only problem was my Dune Prime had no audio but after a power cycle that was solved.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Steve:
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, some have reported that 10dB error bug between what the ARC graph plots show and what the SPL meter displays. To my knowledge, Anthem has no idea what the cause is, let alone a solution to fix it.
> 
> 
> The 75dB reference level corresponds to a volume setting of -10dB on the D2 processor. In the end, trust your ears. If it sounds low, just increase the volume level or re-do ARC with an 85dB reference level.
> 
> 
> BTW, what was your reference level offset in line 5b, the one needed to get the 75dB output level?



That error has no effect on the actual vol. levels so it can be ignored as long as you set the test tone to 75db.

John


----------



## MStanic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/21910606
> 
> 
> V2.14 successfully installed on a non-3D D2V.
> 
> 
> Only problem was my Dune Prime had no audio but after a power cycle that was solved.



Installed 2.14 and pretty much same as 2.13g. No real issue other than the odd HDMI handshanke issues whereby I just lose the audio when jumping from one source to the other. I have noticed this since moving from 2.10 where I never really had that issue (maybe once in a couple of months on 2.10). Also, where my Apple TV is connected, HDMI 4, the handshake seems to be erratic whereby I will get blinking sometimes for 5 seconds or so before it will settle into proper display. I don't think these handshake issue will ever be totally resolved as there is just too much device protocol that needs to be in sync within seconds. If that doesn't happen then we're left to try again or power off/on the D2v. Otherwise, works well aside from the dreaded HDMI handshake issues at times.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21907630
> 
> 
> I finally got my first ARC run completed on my D2. The actual ARC installation and setup was a breeze. Zero problems!
> 
> 
> My first measurement took almost 3 hours. I'm using 9 mic positions and it kept informing me that the sub variance was over 10 points between the positions. This was what took forever to fix. It was pure trial and error. I was moving the sub around in an attempt to get the variance in db to come under 10 points between the mic positions. After a multitude of measurements, I finally decided to move my sub from the left to the right side of the room. This was a pain because I had to reroute my cables and tear apart all my cable management. I was desperate! My room is odd with angular walls and high ceilings so I really didn't know what to expect. I ran the measurements from scratch and it completed! Yes!
> 
> 
> Next I ran the targets, calculated, and uploaded. After ARC is uploaded I had to go into the set up for Source setup and turn on Room EQ=Yes for all the sources. Is this correct? Otherwise, ARC isn't in affect for the D2 correct? I spent all week reading the stickies and FAQs but I want to confirm that what I did was correct.
> 
> 
> So...I'm a complete newbie and can't make heads or tails from the results. I'm hoping the ARC experts help out with any recommendations on how it looks? For the sub, I just left it at its current position after moving it. At that point I was happy that the measurements completed and didn't want to mess with it.
> 
> 
> So here are the graphs...Is it bad?!? Bear in mind I'm kind of limited on the LCR speakers as these are Signature W5 on walls. I can only rotate them left/right and up/down for the center.
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone! This forum rocks.
> 
> Steve





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21908127
> 
> 
> Steve:
> 
> 
> As other have said:
> 
> 1. Make sure you test level is set to give an SPL of 75dB in the anthem setup menu. Your graphs show the reference SPL is 65dB.
> 
> 
> 2. In the Targets menu, Advanced Settings option, set the subwoofer HPF to Flat, instead of Auto. It'll extend and flatten out your subwoofer frequency response in the lower registers.
> 
> 
> Happy Listening ....
> 
> David



Based on the sub chart, I think it's best to leave the sub set to Auto since it begins to drop off around 25 Hz. In order to set the sub to Flat, it must play, with good volume, down to 20 Hz without any drop off, and the sub should have built in sub protection to prevent it from play frequencies beyond its' capabilities. If any one of those two features is missing, then it's best and safer to keep the Auto setting for the sub.


----------



## shn750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21910533
> 
> 
> Steve:
> 
> 
> BTW, what was your reference level offset in line 5b, the one needed to get the 75dB output level?



To get my SPL to register 75db, the noise level in line 5b was set to -0.5dB. I reset all the speaker levels to 0dB. After ARC uploaded the changes, the speaker levels now showed:


Front-L: +1.0

Center: +0.5

Front-R: +1.0

Surr-R: +1.0

Sur-L: -1.0

Movie Sub: -3.0

Music Sub: -3.0


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21910854
> 
> 
> To get my SPL to register 75db, the noise level in line 5b was set to -0.5dB. I reset all the speaker levels to 0dB. After ARC uploaded the changes, the speaker levels now showed:
> 
> 
> Front-L: +1.0
> 
> Center: +0.5
> 
> Front-R: +1.0
> 
> Surr-R: +1.0
> 
> Sur-L: -1.0
> 
> Movie Sub: -3.0
> 
> Music Sub: -3.0



All of your levels look good. If it sounds as good as your charts and levels look, then you should be in very good shape.


Enjoy and Good Job!!!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21910854
> 
> 
> to get my spl to register 75db, the noise level in line 5b was set to -0.5db. I reset all the speaker levels to 0db. After arc uploaded the changes, the speaker levels now showed:
> 
> 
> Front-l: +1.0
> 
> center: +0.5
> 
> front-r: +1.0
> 
> surr-r: +1.0
> 
> sur-l: -1.0
> 
> movie sub: -3.0
> 
> music sub: -3.0





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21910886
> 
> 
> all of your levels look good. If it sounds as good as your charts and levels look, then you should be in very good shape.
> 
> 
> Enjoy and good job!!!



+1 !


----------



## shn750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21911574
> 
> 
> +1 !





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/21910886
> 
> 
> All of your levels look good. If it sounds as good as your charts and levels look, then you should be in very good shape.
> 
> 
> Enjoy and Good Job!!!



So all you guys are saying that I shouldn't worry that the ARC graphs are all showing around 65dB as long as I did set my noise level and subs to 75dB? Is this correct? If so, I'm just going to sit back and let my ears do the judging for a week before I tweak any further.


Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate all your time in reading my questions.


Steve


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21911620
> 
> 
> So all you guys are saying that I shouldn't worry that the ARC graphs are all showing around 65dB as long as I did set my noise level and subs to 75dB? Is this correct? If so, I'm just going to sit back and let my ears do the judging for a week before I tweak any further.
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate all your time in reading my questions.
> 
> 
> Steve



Yes. Now, it's time to sit back and see if your ears agree with your eyes.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21911620
> 
> 
> So all you guys are saying that I shouldn't worry that the ARC graphs are all showing around 65dB as long as I did set my noise level and subs to 75dB? Is this correct? If so, I'm just going to sit back and let my ears do the judging for a week before I tweak any further.
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate all your time in reading my questions.
> 
> 
> Steve



Ditto.

I was just concerned that you may not have done the pre-ARC speaker level setup correctly from the way you worded your post.


You did the setup correctly.


The bug is in ARC. Some people get graphs around 65db, some around 85db, and some around 75db. All have done the pre-ARC speaker level setup correctly. No one so far has figured out why. May be its a setting. May be its the phase of the moon or solar flares. It may be that the engineers at Anthem are just screwing around with us, seeing how many posts they can generate on this thread because of the '10db bug'.










Bottom line, and more importantly, it doesn't affect how ARC works.

Let us know what you think of ARC after listening for a while.


Tom


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21907846
> 
> 
> I have been unable to find anyone who has them or has written any kind of report on how they sound.
> 
> The May/June 2012 issue of the Absolute Sound has interviews with 9 notable designers of high end amplifiers and the majority state a Class D amp is not the way to go. Maybe someone from Anthem will respond here to the status of their new amps.



They're shipping. More reviews are in the works but here's the first:

http://www.anthemavs.co.uk/wp-conten...1_HFN_PM-1.pdf 


the summary:

http://anthemelectronics.blogspot.ca...uccess-at.html 


As for generalizations regarding class D:

http://www.anthemav.com/products/ant...ural-amplifier 


3/4 down the page, starting with this paragraph:


Not all Class D amplifiers are created equal!

In the audio press and across the Internet many generalizations have been made about deficiencies in Class D amplifier design. While such generalizations may hold true for other brands of amplifiers, below, Anthem responds to each one as it relates to our M1.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21907051
> 
> 
> yep sure did, and I would get picture only, no sound (I did change the configuration as well so there should have been sound). But is works in port 1 for some reason, so Im just going to leave it there!



Not altogether surprising if it now works in all ports. Sometimes when HDMI code changes take effect, registers in the chips need to be cleared and the surest way is to reconnect the source or to power cycle the source and the prepro separately.


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. A friend of mine has gone and purchased a new 5.1 system which includes:


Krix:Neuphonix (Mains)


Epicentrix (Centre)


Acoustix (Surrounds)


2x SVS SB12 NSD Subwoofers


Anthem 50v Processor


Wryed For Sound 5 channel power amp.


We performed ARC and these are the results (5 positions).


Thoughts please and possible suggestions to improve them. Thanks in advance.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21915276
> 
> 
> Hi guys. A friend of mine has gone and purchased a new 5.1 system which includes:
> 
> 
> Krix:Neuphonix (Mains)
> 
> 
> Epicentrix (Centre)
> 
> 
> Acoustix (Surrounds)
> 
> 
> 2x SVS SB12 NSD Subwoofers
> 
> 
> Anthem 50v Processor
> 
> 
> Wryed For Sound 5 channel power amp.
> 
> 
> We performed ARC and these are the results (5 positions).
> 
> 
> Thoughts please and possible suggestions to improve them. Thanks in advance.



Simon:


Do the center and left surround speakers have a switch in the back to enable mounting on or close to a wall? If so, I would flip them the other way and see the effect on the frequency response. The center, especially is loosing bass rather fast. If not, move the center closer to the wall to 'gain' bass by taking advantage of room boundary gain.


The left surround has a huge hole in the lower bass regions. Try moving it around, or re-orienting it, if possible.


The same for the subwoofer. Moving it to even out the huge dip in its response. its well worth the effort indeed as your sub seems to have excellent frequency response. I still prefer the flat setting over the auto


----------



## dmusoke

I bought a new CD not too long ago and played it today for the first time on my BDP95 player through my D2v. I have the balanced o/ps cobbected to the balanced analog-dsp inputs of the pre-pro. When i switched to hear the analog-sp input, the sound was very distorted, clipping severly is what i think. When i switch to HDMI, no clipping at all!!!


I'm using v2.14 FW i installed a few days ago. What gives???


----------



## mlbrand

Does the D2 (not v) support hi res audio input greater than 96khz?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Do the center and left surround speakers have a switch in the back to enable mounting on or close to a wall?



No they don't. There's room to move the center back as it's sitting on top of a lowline unit but if it's moved back there will be a surface in front of it so not sure if that will effect the sound. Also the surround's can be moved further back as well.


One sub is to the front right of the room and the 2nd is directly behind the main listening position give or take a few feet from the lounge. Didn't have time to perform quick measures of their positions.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does the D2 (not v) support hi res audio input greater than 96khz?



No. The HDMI limit is up to 5.1 and up to 96KHz.


For HDMI on the D2v that's 7.1 and 192KHz.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/21915588
> 
> 
> Does the D2 (not v) support hi res audio input greater than 96khz?



If by "hi res audio" you meant things like DTS-HD, then no the D2 cannot decode these new hi res audio, but you can send it the LPCM of those decoded stream up to 96KHz, so also no on that part the old D2 cannot accept digital input at higher frequency than 96KHz.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21915484
> 
> 
> I bought a new CD not too long ago and played it today for the first time on my BDP95 player through my D2v. I have the balanced o/ps cobbected to the balanced analog-dsp inputs of the pre-pro. When i switched to hear the analog-sp input, the sound was very distorted, clipping severly is what i think. When i switch to HDMI, no clipping at all!!!
> 
> 
> I'm using v2.14 FW i installed a few days ago. What gives???




David,

You may need to adjust the input level for your CD. Any analog source should be checked in the 'analog input level' section of the D2v stup menu (3.8) pg 37.

When connected thru hdmi (digital) its not a problem.


There are instructions in the manual on how to adjust the analog input level. My guess is its too hot, especially if your using xlr connections. You probably just need to reduce the input level to get it to work.


My cdp (ayre cx-7e) is hooked up to the '2ch balanced' connection and I had to turn it down to -12 or so to get it to sound right. But when adjusted correctly it sounds really right.










Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21913033
> 
> 
> They're shipping. More reviews are in the works but here's the first:
> 
> http://www.anthemavs.co.uk/wp-conten...1_HFN_PM-1.pdf
> 
> 
> the summary:
> 
> http://anthemelectronics.blogspot.ca...uccess-at.html
> 
> 
> As for generalizations regarding class D:
> 
> http://www.anthemav.com/products/ant...ural-amplifier
> 
> 
> 3/4 down the page, starting with this paragraph:
> 
> 
> Not all Class D amplifiers are created equal!
> 
> In the audio press and across the Internet many generalizations have been made about deficiencies in Class D amplifier design. While such generalizations may hold true for other brands of amplifiers, below, Anthem responds to each one as it relates to our M1.



Nick


Thank you for the information. I will be checking with my dealer for a demo as soon as possible.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21915625
> 
> 
> No they don't. There's room to move the center back as it's sitting on top of a lowline unit but if it's moved back there will be a surface in front of it so not sure if that will effect the sound. Also the surround's can be moved further back as well.
> 
> 
> One sub is to the front right of the room and the 2nd is directly behind the main listening position give or take a few feet from the lounge. Didn't have time to perform quick measures of their positions.



You can try tilting the center channel as best a possible to see if the obstruction is really a big deal or not. I doubt if it will be but you need to run QM to verify this.


On the sub issue, i believe you know what to do. Time to stretch your muscles and take a tall drink of patience







. Afterwards, don't forget to re-phase align them as we've talked about before...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21915693
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> You may need to adjust the input level for your CD. Any analog source should be checked in the 'analog input level' section of the D2v stup menu (3.8) pg 37.
> 
> When connected thru hdmi (digital) its not a problem.
> 
> 
> There are instructions in the manual on how to adjust the analog input level. My guess is its too hot, especially if your using xlr connections. You probably just need to reduce the input level to get it to work.
> 
> 
> My cdp (ayre cx-7e) is hooked up to the '2ch balanced' connection and I had to turn it down to -12 or so to get it to sound right. But when adjusted correctly it sounds really right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom ...you are a breath of fresh air indeed







!


----------



## RobertR

Just thought I'd show a recalibration I did of my front speakers.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> You can try tilting the center channel as best a possible to see if the obstruction is really a big deal or not. I doubt if it will be but you need to run QM to verify this.
> 
> 
> On the sub issue, I believe you know what to do. Time to stretch your muscles and take a tall drink of patience . Afterwards, don't forget to re-phase align them as we've talked about before...



Thanks for the advice. Just a reminder this is not my system so will be referring this to my friend who will need to perform the QM etc







.


----------



## dmusoke

Nice hearing from you Robert ...How has the 50v being doing all this time? I see your mic has a wide frequency response. I miss it







! The one for my D2v falls off after 5KHz







.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21915893
> 
> 
> Nice hearing from you Robert ...How has the 50v being doing all tis time. I see your mic has a wide frequency response. I miss it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! The one for my D2v falls off after 5KHz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Better than ever, thank you sir.







Every time I watch a movie or listen to music that I hadn't experienced before I got it, I find it fascinating how much more detail there is in the sound!


----------



## hoehne

Having not used ARC in a while and wanting to obtain the best results, I decided to review as much as I could find on proper ARC technique. In doing so, I wrote my own set of instructions that seemed to do the trick. I wanted to share them with everyone with the goal of tweaking and coming up with the tips and tricks not found in the basic instruction manuals and things that are easy to miss.


I encourage some feedback within reason.

 

Setting up and Running ARC.doc 82k . file


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21915630
> 
> 
> No. The HDMI limit is up to 5.1 and up to 96KHz.
> 
> 
> For HDMI on the D2v that's 7.1 and 192KHz.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I suppose this same 96KHz limit applies to the coax and SPDIF inputs as well?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/21917295
> 
> 
> Having not used ARC in a while and wanting to obtain the best results, I decided to review as much as I could find on proper ARC technique. In doing so, I wrote my own set of instructions that seemed to do the trick. I wanted to share them with everyone with the goal of tweaking and coming up with the tips and tricks not found in the basic instruction manuals and things that are easy to miss.
> 
> 
> I encourage some feedback within reason.



Good job hoehne.

Looks like you invested alot of time to consolidate the numerous posts in the ARC section on pg1 of this thread.

Many people new to this thread found the multitude of ARC posts overwhelming. One concise accurate post detailing the instructions has long been needed.

Since I don't completely understand cutoffs/cross-overs, and phase/polarity that well, it will be useful to let Bob and the other experts give you their feedback and possible revisions, but I for one appreciate your time and effort.

Once its fiallized it should recieve a prominent place in the ARC stickies in pg1.


Thanks again for your hard work,

Tom


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/21918775
> 
> 
> Good job hoehne.
> 
> Looks like you invested alot of time to consolidate the numerous posts in the ARC section on pg1 of this thread.
> 
> Many people new to this thread found the multitude of ARC posts overwhelming. One concise accurate post detailing the instructions has long been needed.
> 
> Since I don't completely understand cutoffs/cross-overs, and phase/polarity that well, it will be useful to let Bob and the other experts give you their feedback and possible revisions, but I for one appreciate your time and effort.
> 
> Once its fiallized it should recieve a prominent place in the ARC stickies in pg1.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your hard work,
> 
> Tom



+1 indeed, indeed







!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Good job hoehne.
> 
> Looks like you invested alot of time to consolidate the numerous posts in the ARC section on pg1 of this thread.
> 
> Many people new to this thread found the multitude of ARC posts overwhelming. One concise accurate post detailing the instructions has long been needed.
> 
> Since I don't completely understand cutoffs/cross-overs, and phase/polarity that well, it will be useful to let Bob and the other experts give you their feedback and possible revisions, but I for one appreciate your time and effort.
> 
> Once its fiallized it should recieve a prominent place in the ARC stickies in pg1.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your hard work,
> 
> Tom



The first page of the Anthem MRX thread has a lot of the info on cutoffs, crossovers etc. in the FAQ section.

John


----------



## johnfusco




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/21917295
> 
> 
> Having not used ARC in a while and wanting to obtain the best results, I decided to review as much as I could find on proper ARC technique. In doing so, I wrote my own set of instructions that seemed to do the trick. I wanted to share them with everyone with the goal of tweaking and coming up with the tips and tricks not found in the basic instruction manuals and things that are easy to miss.
> 
> 
> I encourage some feedback within reason.



Thanks, Good info.


----------



## sharok




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/21917295
> 
> 
> Having not used ARC in a while and wanting to obtain the best results, I decided to review as much as I could find on proper ARC technique. In doing so, I wrote my own set of instructions that seemed to do the trick. I wanted to share them with everyone with the goal of tweaking and coming up with the tips and tricks not found in the basic instruction manuals and things that are easy to miss.
> 
> 
> I encourage some feedback within reason.




Questions:


Per your instructions, "Set the front left speaker level calibration to 0 db, Adjust the noise line level to 75 db SPL in Setup/Speaker Calibration".


What should I do with the other speakers? Should I calibrate them to 75 db aa well?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sharok* /forum/post/21920810
> 
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 
> Per your instructions, "Set the front left speaker level calibration to 0 db, Adjust the noise line level to 75 db SPL in Setup/Speaker Calibration".
> 
> 
> What should I do with the other speakers? Should I calibrate them to 75 db aa well?



It doesn't matter. ARC will ignore what you set for the speakers -- it resets all the speaker volume trims to 0dB before doing its Measurements, and Uploads proper, new trim values as part of the ARC solution.


The reason you set Left Front to 0dB before adjusting the Noise Level line is that the two settings interact. The reason you set the Subwoofer line to 0dB is so that you get an accurate read of what the Volume knob setting on your Subwoofer is producing (using the Noise Level you have just set).


ARC uses Noise Level, and it also uses (of course) whatever volume knob setting you have made on your Sub. So those are the two things to pre-set.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand* /forum/post/21917431
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I suppose this same 96KHz limit applies to the coax and SPDIF inputs as well?



Correct (for the D2). Of course you can only even get that 96KHz with a stereo signal on those. (Multi-channel on S/PDIF Optical or Coax can only be traditional, lossy, Dolby Digital or DTS -- 48KHz. Only a stereo LPCM signal can be higher.)

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21920854
> 
> 
> (Multi-channel on S/PDIF Optical or Coax can only be traditional, lossy, Dolby Digital or DTS -- 48KHz. Only a stereo LPCM signal can be higher.)



The one exception to that rule is DTS 96/24. While rare, it can pass 5.1-ch 96 kHz over S/PDIF.


----------



## sharok

Thank You Bob. It makes sense now.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/21910606
> 
> 
> V2.14 successfully installed on a non-3D D2V.
> 
> 
> Only problem was my Dune Prime had no audio but after a power cycle that was solved.



and then last night the Dune would not give up ANY audio. Weird. No power cycling or other cable wiggling would cure it. All other components just fine.


Will waste an hour trying to fix that later today.


Seems this audio problem isn't quite fixed yet in the FW.


----------



## Texas steve

Yep I had the exact problem with my DTV. I simply switched it to another input ( I had it in HDMI2 and move it to HDMI1) and it worked fine. Nick suggested that you reboot your source and Anthem, then plug in your HDMI, then turn on the Anthem and try. I did not do that as it worked with me just switching inputs.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/21921928
> 
> 
> and then last night the Dune would not give up ANY audio. Weird. No power cycling or other cable wiggling would cure it. All other components just fine.
> 
> 
> Will waste an hour trying to fix that later today.
> 
> 
> Seems this audio problem isn't quite fixed yet in the FW.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21921959
> 
> 
> Yep I had the exact problem with my DTV. I simply switched it to another input ( I had it in HDMI2 and move it to HDMI1) and it worked fine. Nick suggested that you reboot your source and Anthem, then plug in your HDMI, then turn on the Anthem and try. I did not do that as it worked with me just switching inputs.



Very curious.


Tried all of that and couldn't get it to play ball. Rolled back to the official version. All good again.


Funny, it worked immediately after 2.14 install all night but then not the next day or today.


----------



## Texas steve

send a email to Anthem support so they are aware of it.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/21923308
> 
> 
> Very curious.
> 
> 
> Tried all of that and couldn't get it to play ball. Rolled back to the official version. All good again.
> 
> 
> Funny, it worked immediately after 2.14 install all night but then not the next day or today.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> send a email to Anthem support so they are aware of it.



Installed 2.14 and so far no problem. This with the 3D HDMI board installed.

John


----------



## gtx01

In the vain hope that v2.14 may fix a long standing problem I have where certain audio tracks are muting I loaded it on my 50v (no 3d card installed).


It didn't fix the muting problem but everything else seems to be working OK, however, I did notice a couple of differences with my Sky HD satellite box.


If I go in to the 50V main menu while I'm watching Sky when I exit the picture is purple. Power cycling the Sky box gets the normal picture back. This never happened on previous firmware versions and doesn't happen when my blu-ray player is selected.


Due to reasons best known to themselves Sky does not output Dolby Digital over HDMI, you need to connect a separate coax cable for audio. When watching Sky If I cycle through the 50v Status Display (pressing 'select') all the info seems correct. However, if I go to 'Info' on the Video Processing Menu (press & hold 7) Audio Source keeps flicking between "2-CH Fs:48khz" and "2-CH Fs: n/a". This is even when the input is 5.1. I think previously it just said "lossy"


Both of the above 'issues' I can live and apart from the these everything seems to be working OK (apart from my original muting problem).


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/21926239
> 
> 
> If I go in to the 50V main menu while I'm watching Sky when I exit the picture is purple.



Last night I was experimenting with different video output formats in the 50V menu (YCbCr 4:4:4 and RGB) and got various magenta and green screens. The only setting that works reliable for me is 4:2:2. Setting the bit depth to 10 or 12 resulted in a light background (grey instead of black) so I also left that alone at 8 bit.


I haven't played with these settings in a long time so I doubt that it's because of the new 2.14 firmware, just confirms that those settings are best for me. I believe they are also closest to what's on the disc (YCbCr 4:2:2 8-bit) and minimizes chance for processing error in the Anthem.


Check your video output settings. Leave nothing to fate (AUTO).


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/21926239
> 
> 
> If I go in to the 50V main menu while I'm watching Sky when I exit the picture is purple. Power cycling the Sky box gets the normal picture back. This never happened on previous firmware versions and doesn't happen when my blu-ray player is selected.
> 
> 
> Due to reasons best known to themselves Sky does not output Dolby Digital over HDMI, you need to connect a separate coax cable for audio. When watching Sky If I cycle through the 50v Status Display (pressing 'select') all the info seems correct. However, if I go to 'Info' on the Video Processing Menu (press & hold 7) Audio Source keeps flicking between "2-CH Fs:48khz" and "2-CH Fs: n/a". This is even when the input is 5.1. I think previously it just said "lossy".



Purple hue is almost always fixable by setting Data Format in menu 1 to Studio RGB instead of Auto. If it's already set to Studio RGB please contact tech support. If it's set to Auto, the fact that the problem only occurs with one source is probably because of handshake propagation time.


Audio info in the video processing menu only pertains to HDMI input thus irrelevant when using digital coax/optical audio, something I always recommend for satellite/cable since the boxes have some of the worst HDMI implementations and because multichannel lossless audio is not involved. The info displayed when pressing Status is sourced from the DSP, so it trumps the other audio info.


----------



## AVfile

Nick,

The switching from 1080i to any Custom Res'n still results in a blank or garbled screen. The only way out is to go 1080i -> 720p/1080p -> Custom. Difficult to do if you have one source setup for 1080i (sat/cable) and another source for Custom (BD/DVD) and just want to switch between them.


Regards,

Stefan


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21926350
> 
> 
> Nick,
> 
> The switching from 1080i to any Custom Res'n still results in a blank or garbled screen. The only way out is to go 1080i -> 720p/1080p -> Custom. Difficult to do if you have one source setup for 1080i (sat/cable) and another source for Custom (BD/DVD) and just want to switch between them.



Sorry to hear that but you're using "unofficial" hardware as the HDMI front end for your analog-in projector. We did the best we could and I don't know why 1080i-to-custom isn't working on your system though it has no bearing on devoting any more resources to address interoperability with something that's not HDMI-licensed. If this wasn't explained via tech support, our apologies for that.


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21926328
> 
> 
> Purple hue is almost always fixable by setting Data Format in menu 1 to Studio RGB instead of Auto. If it's already set to Studio RGB please contact tech support. If it's set to Auto, the fact that the problem only occurs with one source is probably because of handshake propagation time.
> 
> 
> Audio info in the video processing menu only pertains to HDMI input thus irrelevant when using digital coax/optical audio, something I always recommend for satellite/cable since the boxes have some of the worst HDMI implementations and because multichannel lossless audio is not involved. The info displayed when pressing Status is sourced from the DSP, so it trumps the other audio info.



I had the Data Format in menu 1 set to YCbCr 4:4:4 as this matched the input from the Sky box. I tried changing it to Studio RGB but it made no difference, same purple haze when I exit from the 50v menu. I only had Data Bits set to auto so I changed that to 8 bit, again there was no difference.


I'm not really worried about this as I rarely need to go in to the set-up menus and all the other video seems to work fine.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/21927328
> 
> 
> I had the Data Format in menu 1 set to YCbCr 4:4:4 as this matched the input from the Sky box. I tried changing it to Studio RGB but it made no difference, same purple haze when I exit from the 50v menu. I only had Data Bits set to auto so I changed that to 8 bit, again there was no difference.
> 
> 
> I'm not really worried about this as I rarely need to go in to the set-up menus and all the other video seems to work fine.



Since you are only having the problem with the Sky box, see if the Sky box offers settings for its output. If so, set an explicit choice rather than auto.


While testing this, keep the Anthem output at an explicit setting as well. Try both YCbCr and RGB.


Try both YCbCr and RGB from the Sky box. (4 possible combos of Sky and Anthem choices.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

"Test" firmware V2.14a has appeared on the password protected download page. The changes listed are additional HDMI fixes primarily for support of cable boxes and primarily for the 2D-only HDMI hardware.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/21927328
> 
> 
> I had the Data Format in menu 1 set to YCbCr 4:4:4 as this matched the input from the Sky box. I tried changing it to Studio RGB but it made no difference, same purple haze when I exit from the 50v menu. I only had Data Bits set to auto so I changed that to 8 bit, again there was no difference.



The constantly changing audio format display that you mentioned sounded strange enough and we discovered something that may be related when using a local cable box. So, we now have v2.14a on the password site, which we can't test here with a Sky box for obvious reasons though if you'd like to try it, please do. It should improve HDMI switching* for all AVM/D hardware versions but more so for 2D.


*entering and exiting the setup menu are new source selections as far as HDMI is concerned


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Installed "test" firmware V2.14a in my D2v with the Beta 3D hardware. No obvious problems.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Test firmware v2.14 is definately buggy on my D2v with the standard 2D hardware. The audio dropouts are simply too much. When I play a CD and then turn on my TV, i'm bombarded with audio drop outs for the next 60 seconds or so. Despite the fact that i turn off all HDMI CEC control on my plasma or even tell the D2v to use analog audio outputs with Scaler Input = None, all i get are drop outs for about a full minute. This was never the case with v2.10







.


Here's another weird one ...when i switch back to the playing CD(for its on repeat all on my Oppo95), it drops out for a second or so and then skips to the next song BUT the display still says its the previous song number!!! For example, if i was playing song #2, it'd skip to the next song BUT still display that its playing song #2...


Also when i switch from watching a BD movie to my cable box, my MOXI box freezes(no audio and video) and this IS also new indeed!!! I have to shut off the D2v to get my cable box 'started'.


I really hope they fix these HDMi related problems as i seem to like the reduced HDMI switching speeds. Even entering the setup anthem menu is much faster in v2.14 than it was in v2.10







.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21928988
> 
> 
> Test firmware v2.14 is definately buggy on my D2v with the standard 2D hardware.



Please try v2.14a, which mostly targets 2D hardware. When new software comes out the only thing that makes older software mean anything is when it works better.


Also please remember that while I check threads around these times when software is released, the best way to get problems resolved is to send reports to tech support with enough detail for someone else to reproduce the problem - model numbers of everything involved, cable length, audio format, video format, exact steps to reproduce problem, how often problem occurs, disc title if it matters etc. Without this info there's little chance that anyone who can make a difference will even be aware that something is wrong.


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21927710
> 
> 
> Since you are only having the problem with the Sky box, see if the Sky box offers settings for its output. If so, set an explicit choice rather than auto.
> 
> 
> While testing this, keep the Anthem output at an explicit setting as well. Try both YCbCr and RGB.
> 
> 
> Try both YCbCr and RGB from the Sky box. (4 possible combos of Sky and Anthem choices.)
> 
> --Bob



Unfortunately the Sky box offers very little configuration options for the HDMI, basically you can only set the output as 1080i, 720 or Auto. I use Auto so I can use the 50v for upscaling.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21927847
> 
> 
> The constantly changing audio format display that you mentioned sounded strange enough and we discovered something that may be related when using a local cable box. So, we now have v2.14a on the password site, which we can't test here with a Sky box for obvious reasons though if you'd like to try it, please do. It should improve HDMI switching* for all AVM/D hardware versions but more so for 2D.
> 
> 
> *entering and exiting the setup menu are new source selections as far as HDMI is concerned



I loaded v2.14a and the problems are exactly the same as I posted above. Just to clarify the purple haze only appears when I exit the 50v setup menu whilst watching Sky TV. I can switch between blu-ray and the Sky box with no issues and if I exit the setup menu whilst watching blu-ray/DVD there is no issue.


I tried changing various settings on menu 1, e.g. RESl'N, color space, data, but nothing made a difference.


Incidentally, I saw on previous posts that there would be a 'pass through' option for 2D sources on the new firmware but I can't see anything different on the menus. Do you need the 3D hardware installed to enable this or am I missing something?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/21929733
> 
> 
> I loaded v2.14a and the problems are exactly the same as I posted above. Just to clarify the purple haze only appears when I exit the 50v setup menu whilst watching Sky TV. I can switch between blu-ray and the Sky box with no issues and if I exit the setup menu whilst watching blu-ray/DVD there is no issue.
> 
> 
> I tried changing various settings on menu 1, e.g. RESl'N, color space, data, but nothing made a difference.
> 
> 
> Incidentally, I saw on previous posts that there would be a 'pass through' option for 2D sources on the new firmware but I can't see anything different on the menus. Do you need the 3D hardware installed to enable this or am I missing something?



Thank you for loading the software, trying various settings, and providing the feedback. Although the problem only appears as it does I still hope it eventually gets resolved by whichever means.


The passthrough option is only applicable with "3D" hardware, which is technically "passthrough" hardware that engages the mode when 3D material is detected, regardless of scaled output setting for 2D material if set otherwise. The kit will be retrofittable to any "v" unit via local dealer or distributor.


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok I decided to do a major alteration and move one of my Submersives to the back of the room (back left corner) and left one at the front right of the room.

Sub1 graph is before the move with both submersives next to each other at the front right of the room and the Sub 2 graph is the new positions.


I haven't heard the system yet as it's midnight here so too late to try it out. So going by the graphs is the new placement an improvement? In both graphs Subs are set to Flat in ARC.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21929963
> 
> 
> Ok I decided to do a major alteration and move one of my Submersives to the back of the room (back left corner) and left one at the front right of the room.
> 
> Sub1 graph is before the move with both submersives next to each other at the front right of the room and the Sub 2 graph is the new positions.
> 
> 
> I haven't heard the system yet as it's midnight here so too late to try it out. So going by the graphs is the new placement an improvement? In both graphs Subs are set to Flat in ARC.



Yes, the new placement is an improvement.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the new placement is an improvement.



+1

John


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21929841
> 
> 
> Thank you for loading the software, trying various settings, and providing the feedback. Although the problem only appears as it does I still hope it eventually gets resolved by whichever means.
> 
> 
> The passthrough option is only applicable with "3D" hardware, which is technically "passthrough" hardware that engages the mode when 3D material is detected, regardless of scaled output setting for 2D material if set otherwise. The kit will be retrofittable to any "v" unit via local dealer or distributor.



I loaded 2.14a on my 50V with old 2D cards and it looks like all my HDCP issues with Rogers cable box, OPPO BDP-93 and Windows HTPC (NVidia) are now gone. I also don't experience low audio level bug anymore. Will be testing more but I did several tests and was not able to break the HDCP handshake so far.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21929963
> 
> 
> Ok I decided to do a major alteration and move one of my Submersives to the back of the room (back left corner) and left one at the front right of the room.
> 
> Sub1 graph is before the move with both submersives next to each other at the front right of the room and the Sub 2 graph is the new positions.
> 
> 
> I haven't heard the system yet as it's midnight here so too late to try it out. So going by the graphs is the new placement an improvement? In both graphs Subs are set to Flat in ARC.



Yes sir ...much improved. The dip at 60hz is much reduced and the top portion is much more even than before.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21928988
> 
> 
> Test firmware v2.14 is definately buggy on my D2v with the standard 2D hardware. The audio dropouts are simply too much. When I play a CD and then turn on my TV, i'm bombarded with audio drop outs for the next 60 seconds or so. Despite the fact that i turn off all HDMI CEC control on my plasma or even tell the D2v to use analog audio outputs with Scaler Input = None, all i get are drop outs for about a full minute. This was never the case with v2.10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Here's another weird one ...when i switch back to the playing CD(for its on repeat all on my Oppo95), it drops out for a second or so and then skips to the next song BUT the display still says its the previous song number!!! For example, if i was playing song #2, it'd skip to the next song BUT still display that its playing song #2...
> 
> 
> Also when i switch from watching a BD movie to my cable box, my MOXI box freezes(no audio and video) and this IS also new indeed!!! I have to shut off the D2v to get my cable box 'started'.
> 
> 
> I really hope they fix these HDMi related problems as i seem to like the reduced HDMI switching speeds. Even entering the setup anthem menu is much faster in v2.14 than it was in v2.10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21929382
> 
> 
> Please try v2.14a, which mostly targets 2D hardware. When new software comes out the only thing that makes older software mean anything is when it works better.
> 
> 
> Also please remember that while I check threads around these times when software is released, the best way to get problems resolved is to send reports to tech support with enough detail for someone else to reproduce the problem - model numbers of everything involved, cable length, audio format, video format, exact steps to reproduce problem, how often problem occurs, disc title if it matters etc. Without this info there's little chance that anyone who can make a difference will even be aware that something is wrong.



Thanks Nick ... i loaded v2.14a late last night and tried it out this morning.


- Good new mostly but with the limited testing i've done so far, the audio drop outs i mentioned earlier are reduced now to less than 10 secs.


- The BD player doesn't seem to lock up when i switch inputs or turn off the TV, tho as i said above drop outs are still there tho with less frequency. A new bug i never saw before...it now sometimes tells my player to stop playing as i switch inputs. I have to press play again on my remote and then starts the first track.


- The purple haze is still there when i exit the anthem setup menu as others have mentioned above. This happens 4-5 out of 10 times in my setup


- It plays much better with my Moxi cable box. No strange TV colors when i switch between the box and my BD player. Though i loose audio/video when i switch back to the BD player. I have to switch to another input to get it back.


Moxi outputs 1080i/60 and 720p/60 streams into the D2v. My HDMI cable length to my TV is 30ft and use 1080p60, 36-bit RGB color space to my Pioneer Elite Kuro plasma from my D2v. My tests were done playing CD's and not BDs on my BDP-95. Haven't tried BD movies yet...


----------



## shn750




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne* /forum/post/21917295
> 
> 
> Having not used ARC in a while and wanting to obtain the best results, I decided to review as much as I could find on proper ARC technique. In doing so, I wrote my own set of instructions that seemed to do the trick. I wanted to share them with everyone with the goal of tweaking and coming up with the tips and tricks not found in the basic instruction manuals and things that are easy to miss.
> 
> 
> I encourage some feedback within reason.



Thanks for taking the time to create this cheat sheet. I'm saving this in my notes.


Regards,

Steve


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21930496
> 
> 
> yes sir ...much improved. The dip at 60hz is much reduced and the top portion is much more even than before.



+3


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks for the replies. Here's the graphs guys. I don't get any room gain so should I experiment with adding some? My rooms treated but no bass traps as yet.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21931930
> 
> 
> Thanks for the replies. Here's the graphs guys. I don't get any room gain so should I experiment with adding some? My rooms treated but no bass traps as yet.



The reason for no room gain is the large dip between 100 - 300 Hz of your LF speaker. If you can move them back to get more room gain, this could help.


David


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21932370
> 
> 
> The reason for no room gain is the large dip between 100 - 300 Hz of your LF speaker. If you can move them back to get more room gain, this could help.
> 
> 
> David



Unfortunately that's as far as I can have it.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21932375
> 
> 
> Unfortunately that's as far as I can have it.



I'd recommend you listen to some very familiar music with deep bass and see how you like it. For folks with low or no room gain, i think Bob P said you can raise it up to 2.5 without much trouble. But watch out for the smoothness of the frequency response curves that ARC produces. If you begin to get more wiggles than normal, greater than 1dB from the reference norm line at 75dB, i'd then back off and give that a listen. In the end, it show your ears perceive the new sound with increased room gain. Lots of people have gains up to the maximum of about 4.0


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21932758
> 
> 
> I'd recommend you listen to some very familiar music with deep bass and see how you like it. For folks with low or no room gain, i think Bob P said you can raise it up to 2.5 without much trouble. But watch out for the smoothness of the frequency response curves that ARC produces. If you begin to get more wiggles than normal, greater than 1dB from the reference norm line at 75dB, i'd then back off and give that a listen. In the end, it show your ears perceive the new sound with increased room gain. Lots of people have gains up to the maximum of about 4.0



I remember reading that sometime ago so I've added 1.1 for gain and had a listen to Pink Floyde DSOTM on sacd and the bass was very deep more impact than before. Also tried Dire Straits-Brother in Arms on sacd and that too was excellent. Any more than 1.2-1.5 in gain and the SR and LF curves start to drop. I changed the rears to 100hz from 95hz to reduce the drop in the SR after adding the 1.2 gain but decided to go back to how ARC did them (only the SR drops after gain is added). I will be testing more material today to see if I still like it but so far it all sounds excellent.


Thanks for the suggestions and help as always.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Test firmware v2.14 is definately buggy on my D2v with the standard 2D hardware. The audio dropouts are simply too much. When I play a CD and then turn on my TV, i'm bombarded with audio drop outs for the next 60 seconds or so. Despite the fact that i turn off all HDMI CEC control on my plasma or even tell the D2v to use analog audio outputs with Scaler Input = None, all i get are drop outs for about a full minute. This was never the case with v2.10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Here's another weird one ...when i switch back to the playing CD(for its on repeat all on my Oppo95), it drops out for a second or so and then skips to the next song BUT the display still says its the previous song number!!! For example, if i was playing song #2, it'd skip to the next song BUT still display that its playing song #2...
> 
> 
> Also when i switch from watching a BD movie to my cable box, my MOXI box freezes(no audio and video) and this IS also new indeed!!! I have to shut off the D2v to get my cable box 'started'.
> 
> 
> I really hope they fix these HDMi related problems as i seem to like the reduced HDMI switching speeds. Even entering the setup anthem menu is much faster in v2.14 than it was in v2.10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



I loaded 2.14 on my 2d D2v and have no problems at all With many different souuces (actually, I have had more audio drop-outs with earlier firmware versions, so this firmware version is a real fix for me). Switching sources or channels with different resolutions works much better than with all earlier software versions. Go figure.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/21932936
> 
> 
> I loaded 2.14 on my 2d D2v and have no problems at all With many different souuces (actually, I have had more audio drop-outs with earlier firmware versions, so this firmware version is a real fix for me). Switching sources or channels with different resolutions works much better than with all earlier software versions. Go figure.



Curious ... what BDP and cable box do you have and was the TV on when playing a CD? Mine was on as i like to watch the track info on my plasma TV.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Curious ... what BDP and cable box do you have and was the TV on when playing a CD? Mine was on as i like to watch the track info on my plasma TV.



I have a Tivo Series 3 and a Tivo Piemier feeding into the D2v through an AVAtrix AVM-562 video distributor, a Sony DVP-NC650v DVD/CD/SACD 5-disc changer ( run through the AVAtrix), a Sony BDP-CX960 400 disc blu ray player, a PS3 and an Apple TV (also through the AVAtrix) and then a Denon LA-2300 laser disc player, an old Sony VCR, a Teac analog radio tuner and a Harmon Kardon cassette deck.


The AVAtrix is connected via component and optical, the PS3 and the blue ray player are connected via HDMI.


The TV was on when playing all sources.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW* /forum/post/21932936
> 
> 
> I loaded 2.14 on my 2d D2v and have no problems at all With many different souuces (actually, I have had more audio drop-outs with earlier firmware versions, so this firmware version is a real fix for me). Switching sources or channels with different resolutions works much better than with all earlier software versions. Go figure.



Just try the newer 2.14a. I had tons of HDMI issues with 2.14 on my 2D 50V and they are all gone with 2.14a. This is the first really stable firmware for me (and I tried all of them).


----------



## dmusoke

I agree that 2.14*a* is much more reliable than 2.14. It eliminated 95% of problems i was having with 2.14. I still the the pink haze whenever i quit the Anthem setup menu, though i enter the menu much faster which is nice. I also noticed changing channels from my Moxi cable box is faster. Its connected via HDMI/Optical Coax.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source. If you have S-video from any other Source device try setting that up and see if you get the same problem.


If so, this would show the problem is related to the transition from S-video to other input, or from 480i input resolution to a different input resolution.


By the way, I'm not seeing this problem exiting the Setup menu on my D2v.

--Bob


----------



## xMEATx

I know the passwords to the updated firmware site, but the address has been erased from my browser. Can someone send me the address?


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21935606
> 
> 
> ^ The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source. If you have S-video from any other Source device try setting that up and see if you get the same problem.
> 
> 
> If so, this would show the problem is related to the transition from S-video to other input, or from 480i input resolution to a different input resolution.
> 
> 
> By the way, I'm not seeing this problem exiting the Setup menu on my D2v.
> 
> --Bob



I can confirm that I have exactly the same issue from my Sky+ HD box through the D2v: Pink haze when exiting the D2v OSD. This occurred with V2.14 but not with 2.10. Forcing an HDMI handshake (change inputs or resolution) fixes it. In a ll other ways, the 2.14a seems to be a step forward.

The same Pink haze often previously occurred when switching HDMI inputs under V2.14, but this seems to be fixed albeit with limited use up to now.


----------



## paradigm25

I am trying to get some help set up my equipment:


I have the following;


Fronts: S-8's

Surrounds: S-2's

Center: C-3

Sub: Sub 25


Processor: D2v

Amp: P-5


My problem is that I am not able to ge the sound quality as one would expect from this type of equipment, and I have a very specific question. I have my P5 located in the basement below my listining room, and connected to D2v with 12 feet long XLR cables. Is that lenght of cables can affect the sound quality. Before I haul the P5 back upstairs I would like to get some input. Thank you.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25* /forum/post/21936959
> 
> 
> I am trying to get some help set up my equipment:
> 
> 
> I have the following;
> 
> 
> Fronts: S-8's
> 
> Surrounds: S-2's
> 
> Center: C-3
> 
> Sub: Sub 25
> 
> 
> Processor: D2v
> 
> Amp: P-5
> 
> 
> My problem is that I am not able to ge the sound quality as one would expect from this type of equipment, and I have a very specific question. I have my P5 located in the basement below my listining room, and connected to D2v with 12 feet long XLR cables. Is that lenght of cables can affect the sound quality. Before I haul the P5 back upstairs I would like to get some input. Thank you.



The use of good quality 12 ft long balanced XLR cables from your D2v to the amplifier should not cause a degradation in your audio signal. I use Mogami 2549 25 ft long balanced XLR cables in my system with excellent results. Balanced cables would be recommended when they are of any longer length


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21937003
> 
> 
> The use of good quality 12 ft long balanced XLR cables from your D2v to the amplifier should not cause a degradation in your audio signal. I use Mogami 2549 25 ft long balanced XLR cables in my system with excellent results. Balanced cables would be recommended when they are of any longer length



I am using Blue Jeans Cables.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> - The purple haze is still there when i exit the anthem setup menu as others have mentioned above. This happens 4-5 out of 10 times in my setup
> 
> 
> 36-bit RGB color space to my Pioneer Elite Kuro plasma from my D2v.



My guess is that's your problem. Try DATA = YCbCr 4:2:2 (and maybe even OUTPUT = 8 bit).


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21937195
> 
> 
> My guess is that's your problem. Try DATA = YCbCr 4:2:2 (and maybe even OUTPUT = 8 bit).



My setup has worked fine with v2.10 for a long time and just started to act up on v2.14 along with other problems. v2.14a improved many of these problems though some remain still remain as mentioned above.


Switching from an S-Video signal (Anthem setup menu) to an HDMI signal (Cable box) causes the pink haze on my non-3D D2v. Others with the same setup with no 3D HW have experienced the same thing.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21926998
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear that but you're using "unofficial" hardware as the HDMI front end for your analog-in projector. We did the best we could and I don't know why 1080i-to-custom isn't working on your system though it has no bearing on devoting any more resources to address interoperability with something that's not HDMI-licensed.



There's nothing wrong with the HDFury3 but never mind that. I tried it with a Sony Bravia LCD and get the same problem, only the symptoms are more constant (see attached).



> Quote:
> If this wasn't explained via tech support, our apologies for that.



There was no indication that they tried and were unable to reproduce the problem. Just silence after the usual questions. I have no idea what's going on with my list of issues, if anything...

*Has anyone got this to work?* The first pic is the stock 1080i working; second pic is 720p uploaded to CUSTOM RES memory from the file provided with CustomResolutionManager. Stock 720p works of course and looks just like the first pic.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21937351
> 
> 
> My setup has worked fine with v2.10 for a long time and just started to act up ...



I can understand you wanting to stick with that position, but I don't think it will get you anywhere with tech support. As I have learned they are not interested in doing a "diff" on their code between 2.10 and 2.14 to see what the problem could be.


However I don't understand why you want the Anthem converting the signal from component and changing the colorspace and bit depth? I think you are better off letting the Pioneer do what it needs to do. I always recommend component 4:2:2 because it is closest to what's on the disc or mpeg stream.


----------



## AVfile

On a more positive note I want to give credit to Anthem for the enhancements they have made since 2.10. Besides the obvious support for upcoming 3D hardware and passthru mode, not too many people are talking about fixed DTS level bugs, new CustomResolutionManager, return of LiveVideoSettingsEditor (!) and other minor fixes.


Included is an example of what I was able to achieve using the custom gamma curve editor (middle pic). The before & after calibration reports show the huge difference it made.


----------



## tizzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21935595
> 
> 
> I agree that 2.14*a* is much more reliable than 2.14. It eliminated 95% of problems i was having with 2.14. I still the the pink haze whenever i quit the Anthem setup menu, though i enter the menu much faster which is nice. I also noticed changing channels from my Moxi cable box is faster. Its connected via HDMI/Optical Coax.



I cannot really understand what's going on with 2.14a. It seems to work for some users (like you) but for other (like me, AVM 50v owner) it seems to be still buggy. I tried it today and still no audio signal from HDMI sources, no difference in with HDMI row (upper or lower) they are connected.

Can anybody confirm that 2.14a is working in 50v without 3D video board installed?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tizzy* /forum/post/21937578
> 
> 
> Can anybody confirm that 2.14a is working in 50v without 3D video board installed?



I confirm.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tizzy* /forum/post/21937578
> 
> 
> Can anybody confirm that 2.14a is working in 50v without 3D video board installed?



2.14a works like a charm for me on my 50V with old 2D video board. I have never experienced any HDCP handshake issues since I updated my unit to this version. With older firmwares I had to switch off and on my 50v in 80% of cases so that to restore either picture or sound.


No audio from all HDMI sources is a rather strange behavior, it could be that something really simple and silly with your configuration that makes it work like this. Or you have a faulty unit.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 2.14a works like a charm for me on my 50V with old 2D video board. I have never experienced any HDCP handshake issues since I updated my unit to this version. With older firmwares I had to switch off and on my 50v in 80% of cases so that to restore either picture or sound.
> 
> 
> No audio from all HDMI sources is a rather strange behavior, it could be that something really simple and silly with your configuration that makes it work like this. Or you have a faulty unit.



2.14a works perfectly with my 2D D2V as well. Maybe poor behavior is a result of a bad flash?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21937440
> 
> 
> I can understand you wanting to stick with that position, but I don't think it will get you anywhere with tech support. As I have learned they are not interested in doing a "diff" on their code between 2.10 and 2.14 to see what the problem could be.
> 
> 
> However I don't understand why you want the Anthem converting the signal from component and changing the colorspace and bit depth? I think you are better off letting the Pioneer do what it needs to do. I always recommend component 4:2:2 because it is closest to what's on the disc or mpeg stream.



I have no analog video sources into my D2v, only HDMI sources. I was referring to the s-video internal source the anthem uses to generate the setup menu that once you quit the menu, you get a pink haze afterwards and is only eliminated by forcing an HDMI handshake. In my case, i force this handshake by switching between a 720p channel (few in number) and a 1080i channel (plentiful).


My pioneer plasma is most accurate in RGB mode so that's what i use and have done so successfully for years using both AVM20/50 and D2v pre-pros.


I believe they know what to fix in the firmwae since v2.14 was so bad with my D2v unit and now with 2.14a, it became drastically improved.


----------



## rovingtravler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21937481
> 
> 
> On a more positive note I want to give credit to Anthem for the enhancements they have made since 2.10. Besides the obvious support for upcoming 3D hardware and passthru mode, not too many people are talking about fixed DTS level bugs, new CustomResolutionManager, return of LiveVideoSettingsEditor (!) and other minor fixes.
> 
> 
> Included is an example of what I was able to achieve using the custom gamma curve editor (middle pic). The before & after calibration reports show the huge difference it made.




So LIve Video Setting Editor works?


I need to tweak my gamma curve ever so slightly for my PJ.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have no analog video sources into my D2v, only HDMI sources. I was referring to the s-video internal source the anthem uses to generate the setup menu that once you quit the menu, you get a pink haze afterwards and is only eliminated by forcing an HDMI handshake. In my case, i force this handshake by switching between a 720p channel (few in number) and a 1080i channel (plentiful).
> 
> 
> My pioneer plasma is most accurate in RGB mode so that's what i use and have done so successfully for years using both AVM20/50 and D2v pre-pros.
> 
> 
> I believe they know what to fix in the firmwae since v2.14 was so bad with my D2v unit and now with 2.14a, it became drastically improved.



When I said "component" I meant digital (YCbCr not analog YPbPr. The former is what's on the disc and you are trusting the Anthem with converting it to digital RGB rather than the TV. That's fine if it works but in my experience it complicates the handshake. It would be nice to know if YCbCr 4:2:2 affects your purple haze, which should be relatively easy to try, and help Anthem debug the issue if it changes the result (I think you've tried everything else).


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So LIve Video Setting Editor works?
> 
> 
> I need to tweak my gamma curve ever so slightly for my PJ.



Yeah the last few beta firmwares are compatible with it - not sure what version brought it back as there was no announcement or release note and I have not upgraded the program itself.


If you've never used the interface it is a bit odd - instead of the usual 5 or 10% grey steps you get 1024 steps and the uppermost few seem to be above peak white. You get to pick your points and you have to do some mental arithmetic to make them relate to your calibration levels.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21939500
> 
> 
> When I said "component" I meant digital (YCbCr not analog YPbPr. The former is what's on the disc and you are trusting the Anthem with converting it to digital RGB rather than the TV. That's fine if it works but in my experience it complicates the handshake. It would be nice to know if YCbCr 4:2:2 affects your purple haze, which should be relatively easy to try, and help Anthem debug the issue if it changes the result (I think you've tried everything else).



It's been widely reported here at AVS that Kuro sets like his produce better imagery when fed Studio RGB. It's a quirk of their design. Of course there's no reason the input and output data formats need be the same. The Anthem does high precision conversion.


Generally speaking, the handshake is only complicated if you leave it to the Source device or the Anthem to negotiate a data format. If you set a specific data format such as YCbCr 4:4:4 input into the Anthem and Studio RGB output to the display there are no complications.

--Bob


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21937440
> 
> 
> However I don't understand why you want the Anthem converting the signal from component and changing the colorspace and bit depth? I think you are better off letting the Pioneer do what it needs to do. I always recommend component 4:2:2 because it is closest to what's on the disc or mpeg stream.



For blu-ray/DVD I use 4:2:2 but for my Sky HD box I use 4:4:4 as this is what the 50v says its receiving on the Video Processing menu. I tried 4:2:2 but still get the purple haze when I exit the main menu.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tizzy* /forum/post/21937578
> 
> 
> I cannot really understand what's going on with 2.14a. It seems to work for some users (like you) but for other (like me, AVM 50v owner) it seems to be still buggy. I tried it today and still no audio signal from HDMI sources, no difference in with HDMI row (upper or lower) they are connected.
> 
> Can anybody confirm that 2.14a is working in 50v without 3D video board installed?



2.14a is working fine so far on my 50v (no 3D board) with the exception that if I exit from the 50v main menu whilst watching Sky TV I get a purple haze on the picture. In general I would say switching between blu-ray/DVD/Sky HD is smoother with 14a. So far I've had no HDMI audio problems.


----------



## AVfile

^ very good.


I can't even get a stable picture in the setup menu with anything other than 4:2:2 output.










edit: I tried a different HDMI display device and it started working. Switched back to my original device and now it's working too!


----------



## tizzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21937786
> 
> 
> 2.14a works like a charm for me on my 50V with old 2D video board. I have never experienced any HDCP handshake issues since I updated my unit to this version. With older firmwares I had to switch off and on my 50v in 80% of cases so that to restore either picture or sound.
> 
> 
> No audio from all HDMI sources is a rather strange behavior, it could be that something really simple and silly with your configuration that makes it work like this. Or you have a faulty unit.



Thanks to all who gave their feedback on this topic!

I will try flashing 2.14a again and hope it will work. Actually 2.11 has no audio issues, just audio dropouts after handshaking.

If it doesn't work, I'll have to contact Anthem support, I suppose. However, I am not sure if they will just recommend to wait an official firmware release.......


----------



## spiderv6

2.14a is no different than 2.14 for me. Everything works except my Dune Prime (no audio) and as that is what I use to access my movie server.....not good.


Anybody else running a Dune Prime that can report back?


----------



## billatlakegeorge

Oppo BDP-93 to D2v


Can anyone point me to the recommended settings for both the Oppo and D2v


I'm using hdmi all the way.


----------



## Kensmith48

I'm getting the upgrade bug. I'm wondering what the price is on a D2v these days. I've seen $7500, 8000, 9000, and 10,000 USD.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21937358
> 
> 
> The first pic is the stock 1080i working; second pic is 720p uploaded to CUSTOM RES memory from the file provided with CustomResolutionManager. Stock 720p works of course and looks just like the first pic.



Interesting, this is news to me at least. If you haven't sent the Bravia model number to support, please do and I'll track it down.


----------



## shn750

Hello.


Since the D2 is capable of doing a pixel-to-pixel mapping for the video output, does anyone know what the actual native resolution is for a 50 inch Pioneer plasma? I have an older PDP-5050HD and the manual says the number of pixels are 1280x768. However, when selecting this output for the video in the D2, the screen comes up blank. I can only select 1280x760 to view any content through the D2. Should I just keep it as is or should I try to look for the actual resolution of the display?


I can't find the actual native resolution of the Pioneer anywhere and wondering if anyone actually knows?


Thanks

Steve


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> 
> Since the D2 is capable of doing a pixel-to-pixel mapping for the video output, does anyone know what the actual native resolution is for a 50 inch Pioneer plasma? I have an older PDP-5050HD and the manual says the number of pixels are 1280x768. However, when selecting this output for the video in the D2, the screen comes up blank. I can only select 1280x760 to view any content through the D2. Should I just keep it as is or should I try to look for the actual resolution of the display?
> 
> 
> I can't find the actual native resolution of the Pioneer anywhere and wondering if anyone actually knows?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve



I would have thought the manual would have it like my Panasonic.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21939533
> 
> 
> It's been widely reported here at AVS that Kuro sets like his produce better imagery when fed Studio RGB. It's a quirk of their design. Of course there's no reason the input and output data formats need be the same. The Anthem does high precision conversion.
> 
> 
> Generally speaking, the handshake is only complicated if you leave it to the Source device or the Anthem to negotiate a data format. *If you set a specific data format such as YCbCr 4:4:4 input into the Anthem and Studio RGB output to the display there are no complications.*--Bob



OK, i set my Kuro to AUTO and D2v output config to YCbCr 4:4:4 as my Moxi box outputs YCbCr 4:4:4, according to Anthem and set output data to 8-bits. I still get the pink haze when exiting the anthem setup menu. So despite the ideal settings i used from the cable box and allowing the plasma to Auto select whatever its given by my D2v, i still get the pink haze. Something else is going on here.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21943352
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> 
> Since the D2 is capable of doing a pixel-to-pixel mapping for the video output, does anyone know what the actual native resolution is for a 50 inch Pioneer plasma? I have an older PDP-5050HD and the manual says the number of pixels are 1280x768. However, when selecting this output for the video in the D2, the screen comes up blank. I can only select 1280x760 to view any content through the D2. Should I just keep it as is or should I try to look for the actual resolution of the display?
> 
> 
> I can't find the actual native resolution of the Pioneer anywhere and wondering if anyone actually knows?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve



Your best bet is to ask in the owner's thread here for your particular model of display. There are quite a few Pioneer display experts here at AVS, so odds are you'll get an answer in short order as to what's the "best" input resolution for your older Pioneer display.


It is not uncommon for such displays to not accept their actual pixel matrix as a valid input resolution. In other cases (e.g., with some older Panasonic panels), you can only get the display to accept its pixel matrix as an input resolution if you build a custom set of video timings. Ask in the owner's thread for your display whether folks using any specialized video scalers have found that necessary. If you find custom video timings are necessary, the D2 can do that. Anthem tech support can help with that if you can get the parameters from one of the folks that's already got some other external scaler working that way. Basically you build the custom timings using an Anthem tool and then upload that as the "custom" output resolution of the D2, selectable in Setup > Video Output.


The 1280x760 that you've already found works may indeed be the best answer given the restrictions your display puts on non-standard input resolutions. Ideally, the display will then leave the missing 8 lines of video black (e.g., 4 black lines each left at top and bottom) as that would mean the display is not attempting to "scale" that 1280x760 input to 768 lines, which is almost certainly bad news. (Scaling between resolutions that are pretty close together like that is just asking for scaling artifacts.)


Note that 1280/768 and 1280/760 are both distinct from 16/9. Which means that at some point the 16:9 content has to be scaled to match those non-square pixels in your display. It is quite possible the D2 can do that better than your display, so this is certainly worth checking.


Also note that many displays assume such non-standard resolutions are coming from a computer rather than a home theater device. As such, when fed such a resolution the display may shift gears internally in the way it does things. For example it may shift to a lower Gamma correction value or may disable the dithering necessary for best home theater viewing. The point being, you need to check to see whether "native resolution" input remains properly calibrated for video levels and truly looks better than just feeding a "standard" resolution to your display.

--Bob


----------



## JimP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21943352
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> 
> Since the D2 is capable of doing a pixel-to-pixel mapping for the video output, does anyone know what the actual native resolution is for a 50 inch Pioneer plasma? I have an older PDP-5050HD and the manual says the number of pixels are 1280x768. However, when selecting this output for the video in the D2, the screen comes up blank. I can only select 1280x760 to view any content through the D2. Should I just keep it as is or should I try to look for the actual resolution of the display?
> 
> 
> I can't find the actual native resolution of the Pioneer anywhere and wondering if anyone actually knows?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve



Steve

I have a 6070 and although it's also a 768 native resolution display, it'll only recognize 480i/p, 760 and 1080i/p. In other words, it won't recognize a 768 signal. There is no native 768 content. It doesn't really matter because somewhere, either externally or internally, scaling is going to happen. I wouldn't complain as the picture has always been better than other displays at that point in time.


One more thing, the 6070 seems to do better with a 1080i signal than a 1080p signal. You might want to try both to see if the same applies to your display.


----------



## dkojevnikov

Experienced my first bug win 2.14a (50V 2d, OPPO-93, HTPC). This was a "very low audio volume" bug. I wanted to listen to some music (flac) and even at 0 the audio was almost non-existent. Switching on and off (soft) did not help much, a little bit louder but still too low, switching to different input and player (HTPC OPPO) did not change anything so Anthem cached some wrong volume level somewhere. The only thing that helped was powering 50V off an on completely (via the back switch). Now the volume is back to normal.


----------



## AVfile

Damn!


----------



## Kensmith48

I still haven't been informed of the MSRP on a new D2v.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I still haven't been informed of the MSRP on a new D2v.



Have you tried a dealer?

John


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21937358
> 
> 
> I tried it with a Sony Bravia LCD and get the same problem, only the symptoms are more constant (see attached).



Good info and although the LCD model number is unknown, v2.14b may be the cure - please try it. It's in the usual place.


1. (As reported by Bob) Analog input video adjustments in video processing menu stopped working in an earlier beta - fixed.


2. (As reported by AVFile) Custom output resolution sometimes resulted in double screen when switching from interlaced output configuration - fixed.


All, recent activity may give the impression that if problems are reported here they will be fixed. This is not the case, if not by coincidence - they need to go to tech support, and in detail. I can't say this enough. I'm the only one from the company that visits forums and it's not on a regular basis.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21944963
> 
> 
> Experienced my first bug win 2.14a (50V 2d, OPPO-93, HTPC). This was a "very low audio volume" bug.



Still on the to do list and happens so rarely since the beginning that it is difficult to track.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shn750* /forum/post/21943352
> 
> 
> I have an older PDP-5050HD and the manual says the number of pixels are 1280x768. However, when selecting this output for the video in the D2, the screen comes up blank.



With a quick search it seems that this is a HDMI-input TV. 768p normally requires DVI input.


If 720p works, compare picture quality with 1080i. It's often better to scale down from 1080i than up from 720p, at least that's what I found using test patterns into a DVI-in 768p TV.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21943542
> 
> 
> The 1280x760 that you've already found works may indeed be the best answer given the restrictions your display puts on non-standard input resolutions.



Typo? He could have meant 1280x720.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/21942261
> 
> 
> I'm getting the upgrade bug. I'm wondering what the price is on a D2v these days. I've seen $7500, 8000, 9000, and 10,000 USD.



Best to get latest info from the source, tech support included.


$8999 in US

$9999 in Canada

International - contact local distributor, or conatact us and we'll forward inquiry to local distributor


As always, prices are subject to change. Unlike "commodity" electronics, the ones made here are more prone to inflation not to mention other costs due to fluctuating currency values and skyrocketing materials prices, for example copper, aluminum, and neodymium in the case of speakers, to name a few.


----------



## drhankz

*IF Anyone want to UPGRADE a D2 to 3D I have Experience*

I Highly Recommend the Sony BDP-S790 and my Experience *HERE*


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> IF Anyone want to UPGRADE a D2 to 3D I have Experience
> 
> 
> I Highly Recommend the Sony BDP-S790 and my Experience HERE



Good one Hank!

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/21945540
> 
> 
> I still haven't been informed of the MSRP on a new D2v.



I sent you a PM. Read it yet ?

Stew


----------



## Bruceko




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/21942261
> 
> 
> I'm getting the upgrade bug. I'm wondering what the price is on a D2v these days. I've seen $7500, 8000, 9000, and 10,000 USD.



Is the D2v2 actually finally available?

Or is it still February 2013?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The V2.14b "test" firmware now identifies a unit with the 3D "pass through" hardware upgrade installed by saying the unit is a "STATEMENT D2v 3D" in the front panel during power up.


This is how you will be able to distinguish upgraded units in the used equipment market for example.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is the D2v2 actually finally available?
> 
> Or is it still February 2013?



There is no D2v2. No one knows when another version will be available.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Hmm, unfortunately the new "3D" identifier means you can no longer see the installed firmware version number. Ooops!

--Bob


----------



## Bruceko




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21947260
> 
> 
> There is no D2v2. No one knows when another version will be available.
> 
> John



So are new d2v's that are being sold now equipped with 3d capability?

I assume there is no upgrade path available for owners of D2?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So are new d2v's that are being sold now equipped with 3d capability?
> 
> I assume there is no upgrade path available for owners of D2?



I believe new units are equipped with the 3D upgrade and I also believe D2s can also be upgraded,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/21947400
> 
> 
> So are new d2v's that are being sold now equipped with 3d capability?
> 
> I assume there is no upgrade path available for owners of D2?



The tea leaves I'm looking at say that once the hardware is released, all new AVM 50v and D2v units will come with the hardware upgrade pre-installed by the factory. Owners of existing AVM 50v and D2v units will be able to purchase the hardware upgrade -- to be dealer/distributor installed (i.e., no need to send the unit back to the factory). I believe that many (all?) dealers have been including the upgrade in the price of their most recent sales, so that for recent purchasers there would be no additional charge to get the upgrade. Check with your dealer.


The pricing of the upgrade has not been announced publicly. But based on the recent price increase of the D2v (which presumably is intended to cover the upgrade) it looks like something around $500.


The upgrade replaces 4 of the 8 HDMI inputs and 1 of the 2 HDMI outputs with hardware capable of 3D video "pass through".


Since the upgrade is done by replacing the daughter boards that attach to the main video board, and since neither the original D2 nor the original AVM 50 use such daughter boards, I don't believe the upgrade can be made available to original AVM 50 or D2 owners.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is one significant bug I'm tracking at this point:


Bitstream input of DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks incorrectly presents LS audio also in the LF speaker and RS audio also in the RF speaker. The workaround is to use LPCM input for such tracks. This is true both with 7.1 and with 5.1 speakers configured. DTS-HD MA 5.1 tracks and all TrueHD and LPCM tracks do not have this problem.


I've also had some rare instances of loss of audio which appear to be a glitch in the portion of the audio processing that decides whether the digital audio input is a valid stream or not. I.e., *NOT* an HDMI handshake failure. The evidence is that you can get audio back by Pausing the input stream and starting it again -- which of course does not cause an HDMI retry.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21947770
> 
> 
> Bitstream input of DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks incorrectly presents LS audio also in the LF speaker and RS audio also in the RF speaker. The workaround is to use LPCM input for such tracks. This is true both with 7.1 and with 5.1 speakers configured. DTS-HD MA 5.1 tracks and all TrueHD and LPCM tracks do not have this problem.



Sounds suspiciously like that DTS "remapping" process, which is mistakenly attempting to phantom image the 110-deg surround speakers more forward to 90-deg.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21947770
> 
> 
> Bitstream input of DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks incorrectly presents LS audio also in the LF speaker and RS audio also in the RF speaker. The workaround is to use LPCM input for such tracks. This is true both with 7.1 and with 5.1 speakers configured. DTS-HD MA 5.1 tracks and all TrueHD and LPCM tracks do not have this problem.



Yeah that's been an issue since v2.10 or before.


I haven't tested any of the beta fw, I requested through Anthem Australia ages ago but the request seems to have been ignored.

From what I've heard the beta fw fixed the DTS-HDMA 5.1 LF/RF to all other channels 3dB level discrepancy, but did they fix it by increasing the LF/RF channels by 3dB or did they reduce all the others by 3dB as was needed to bring DTS-HDMA 5.1 inline with everything else?


Number 4 on the list:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post20844765 


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21948052
> 
> 
> Sounds suspiciously like that DTS "remapping" process, which is mistakenly attempting to phantom image the 110-deg surround speakers more forward to 90-deg.



Yes, that's my working assumption as well, except it sounds to me more like it's trying to image something like 60 degrees. It's obviously wrong, in either case. Anthem is on it.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> but did they fix it by increasing the LF/RF channels by 3dB or did they reduce all the others by 3dB as was needed to bring DTS-HDMA 5.1 inline with everything else?



I too would like an answer to this. Hopefully Anthem support can confirm how they did it.


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/21947060
> 
> 
> Is the D2v2 actually finally available?
> 
> Or is it still February 2013?



It will come out 1 week after I buy a D2v. lol


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/21949314
> 
> 
> It will come out 1 week after I buy a D2v. lol



I doubt there is any improvement Anthem can make that they

have NOT Already made with the 3D HDMI ports.


My Guess is the NEXT update will be 4K support in 2014 but that is

just my WILD GUESS - I have no knowledge of Anthem's Next anything.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I doubt there is any improvement Anthem can make that they
> 
> have NOT Already made with the 3D HDMI ports.
> 
> 
> My Guess is the NEXT update will be 4K support in 2014 but that is
> 
> just my WILD GUESS - I have no knowledge of Anthem's Next anything.



+1

What else could the D2v offer in a mass market way, not some specific feature a hand full of people want?

John


----------



## RobertR

I just had a very strange problem happen to me that I hope someone can help me with:


My setup uses a phantom center. (50v). Per the level issues discussed here, I've been using the LPCM setting on my Oppo BDP83 instead of bitstream. Everything has been fine for months, up to a couple of days ago, when I was watching Mission Impossible GP (True HD 7.1). I have made no recent changes to my setup.


But JUST TODAY, I was watching the Iron Man BR (True HD 5.1), and ALL center channel information DISAPPEARED. I then put in Cloverfield (also True HD 5.1), and the same thing happened. The center channel info REAPPEARS if I set the Oppo to Bitstream. Does anyone have any idea why it suddenly disappeared with the LPCM setting??


Edit: The problem went away when I turned off Prologic IIX movie.


----------



## rovingtravler

Anybody remember how to change the center channel width?


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/21951204
> 
> 
> Anybody remember how to change the center channel width?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Only a few of the Audio Surround Modes have adjustable parameters like Center Channel Width. See Section 4.8.3 in the Manual.


If using a mode like PLIIx-Music which has such parameters, then the way you change them is to press the Mode button 2 or 3 times (to view the parameter you want to change) and then the Up/Down Arrow keys to adjust it.

--Bob


----------



## rovingtravler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21951264
> 
> 
> Only a few of the Audio Surround Modes have adjustable parameters like Center Channel Width. See Section 4.8.3 in the Manual.
> 
> 
> If using a mode like PLIIx-Music which has such parameters, then the way you change them is to press the Mode button 2 or 3 times (to view the parameter you want to change) and then the Up/Down Arrow keys to adjust it.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob!

That is why I could not find it... since it is only a some of the modes.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21949350
> 
> 
> I doubt there is any improvement Anthem can make that they
> 
> have NOT Already made with the 3D HDMI ports.
> 
> 
> My Guess is the NEXT update will be 4K support in 2014 but that is
> 
> just my WILD GUESS - I have no knowledge of Anthem's Next anything.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21949852
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> What else could the D2v offer in a mass market way, not some specific feature a hand full of people want?
> 
> John



I can definately think of something they need to improve on...the ANALOG sections of the D2v/50v. The ADC's, DAC's and possibly op-amps used are really old by todays standards. I wish they could use DACs like ESS 9xxx series from ESS Technologies used in the Oppo 83SE, 95 and other high-end manufacturers. It would nice to have the analog section of the well regarded Oppo 95 in the D2v. I would buy, in a heartbeat, a newly designed analog board that could be swapped out with the current one! Please LORD, let it be so







!!! The analog passthrough section needs to be much clearer as well.


Since, as you've all said, they've done practically all they can do for the digital side, they can now improve the analog sections of their pre-pros. After all, with an MSRP of about $10K (







!)for the D2v, this is the least they can do and need to do.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21951914
> 
> 
> I can definately think of something they need to improve on...the ANALOG sections of the D2v/50v. The ADC's, DAC's and possibly op-amps used are really old by todays standards. I wish they could use DACs like ESS 9xxx series from ESS Technologies used in the Oppo 83SE, 95 and other high-end manufacturers. It would nice to have the analog section of the well regarded Oppo 95 in the D2v. I would buy, in a heartbeat, a newly designed analog board that could be swapped out with the current one! Please LORD, let it be so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!! The analog passthrough section needs to be much clearer as well.
> 
> 
> Since, as you've all said, they've done practically all they can do for the digital side, they can now improve the analog sections of their pre-pros. After all, with an MSRP of about $10K (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !)for the D2v, this is the least they can do and need to do.



Maybe Vacuum Tubes










Analog is DEAD


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21951914
> 
> 
> I can definately think of something they need to improve on...the ANALOG sections of the D2v/50v. The ADC's, DAC's and possibly op-amps used are really old by todays standards. I wish they could use DACs like ESS 9xxx series from ESS Technologies used in the Oppo 83SE, 95 and other high-end manufacturers. It would nice to have the analog section of the well regarded Oppo 95 in the D2v. I would buy, in a heartbeat, a newly designed analog board that could be swapped out with the current one! Please LORD, let it be so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!! The analog passthrough section needs to be much clearer as well.
> 
> 
> Since, as you've all said, they've done practically all they can do for the digital side, they can now improve the analog sections of their pre-pros. After all, with an MSRP of about $10K (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !)for the D2v, this is the least they can do and need to do.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21951926
> 
> 
> Maybe Vacuum Tubes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Analog is DEAD



Nah !!! not even by a long shot. The analog from the D2v needs to soundlike it comes from a $10K player ... After all, everything in the audio chain ends up analog in the end, right?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is no D2v2. No one knows when another version will be available.
> 
> John



Actually the D2v is the D2v2 (the original name, which was simply shortened before the product was released).


Perhaps he meant D2v 3D?


----------



## cougar75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/21951204
> 
> 
> Anybody remember how to change the center channel width?
> 
> 
> Thanks.





Buy a larger speaker??


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21951914
> 
> 
> I can definately think of something they need to improve on...the ANALOG sections of the D2v/50v. The ADC's, DAC's and possibly op-amps used are really old by todays standards. I wish they could use DACs like ESS 9xxx series from ESS Technologies used in the Oppo 83SE, 95 and other high-end manufacturers. It would nice to have the analog section of the well regarded Oppo 95 in the D2v. I would buy, in a heartbeat, a newly designed analog board that could be swapped out with the current one! Please LORD, let it be so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!! The analog passthrough section needs to be much clearer as well.
> 
> 
> Since, as you've all said, they've done practically all they can do for the digital side, they can now improve the analog sections of their pre-pros. After all, with an MSRP of about $10K (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !)for the D2v, this is the least they can do and need to do.



Anthem states the Analog Direct is untouched by any circuitry except the volume control and that is analog.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/21951926
> 
> 
> Maybe Vacuum Tubes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Analog is DEAD



Analog Dead ? Only for home theater codecs.

My D2v Analog Direct playing music from a DAC sounds better than digital even with Digital using ARC.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21952326
> 
> 
> Nah !!! not even by a long shot. The analog from the D2v needs to soundlike it comes from a $10K player ... After all, everything in the audio chain ends up analog in the end, right?



Get a good DAC and use the digital output of your OPPO or maybe a Logitech player to the DAC then output the DAC via analog to the D2v.

You'll be in audio heaven.


Stew


Ready for the flaming


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Anthem states the Analog Direct is untouched by any circuitry except the volume control and that is analog.
> 
> 
> Analog Dead ? Only for home theater codecs.
> 
> My D2v Analog Direct playing music from a DAC sounds better than digital even with Digital using ARC.
> 
> 
> Get a good DAC and use the digital output of your OPPO or maybe a Logitech player to the DAC then output the DAC via analog to the D2v.
> 
> You'll be in audio heaven.
> 
> 
> Stew
> 
> 
> Ready for the flaming



Stew,

I ran my Arcam(good DACs) through analog and then through Analog DSP using ARC and the Analog DSP with ARC won by a long shot.

John


----------



## Bruceko




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21952815
> 
> 
> Actually the D2v is the D2v2 (the original name, which was simply shortened before the product was released).
> 
> 
> Perhaps he meant D2v 3D?



Yep that is what I meant. 3d


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep that is what I meant. 3d



3D ready D2vs still are not being produced. Soon though.

John


----------



## tbailey

am having a new problem with my DirecTV satellite box, (HR24) and my D2 processor, (v1.33 sw). The following error message appears when attempting to view HBO channels only,


Your TV does not support this program's content protection. Replacing the TV's HDMI cable with component cables will allow you to view the program.


This message ONLY appears when I still have the satellite output connected to the D2 input (whether it is turned on or not). The HDMI connection works fine when going directly to the Panasonic HDTV, (TC-P54V10) and bypassing the D2.


I presently have the H24 component output cables directly connected to the TV so the D2 does not need to be turned on to watch TV, but I still get the error message UNTIL I disconnect the HDMI connection to the D2. Is this a problem related to hardware in the D2 or can it be resolved with a future software release?


I called Anthem Tech Support and they first told me to upgrade to v1.33 and it would fix the problem at which time I told the tech it has been that version sw since I bought it. He then advised me to dump the HDMI and go with component cables which I find dissapointing to say the least. I bought the Anthem D2 in the first place for the best sound and audio I could get.


I KNOW DirecTV is not going to write the code to accept the D2 and it doesn't sound like Anthem cares one way or the other. Does anyone have this issue with the D2V?


I posted this originally under the title above and posted over here after some sage advise.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbailey* /forum/post/21958681
> 
> 
> am having a new problem with my DirecTV satellite box, (HR24) and my D2 processor, (v1.33 sw). The following error message appears when attempting to view HBO channels only,



A quick search turns up this result which indicates that some H24 owners have similar issue while others don't, though the latter group may not include HBO subscribers.

http://forums.directv.com/pe/action/...ostID=11051592 


At any rate Anthem isn't mentioned and though we indeed care enough to get on planes to meet with cable and satellite box designers from around the world for the sole purpose of ensuring HDMI interoperability according to its specification, I doubt there's anything we can do about things like this one.


----------



## RobertR

I'm considering splitting the HDMI output from my PC to go to both my bedroom system (Pioneer VSX21TX and Panasonic TC-P65VT25 Plasma) and my AVM50V. I noticed that when I send the video card's HDMI signal to the Panasonic, I have to adjust the desktop size down to something like (I don't have the exact numbers) 1860 x 1020p to keep the image from "overscanning". Would the AVM 50V have any trouble converting that back to standard 1080p or 1080i output?


Edit: I just noticed that the Panasonic has a "95% or 100%" size adjustment. 95% of 1920 x 1080 is 1824 x 1026, which I now recall is the desktop size I set. So it appears I can send a 1080p signal from the PC "unmolested".


----------



## Texas steve

Upgraded to 2.14b so far so good, D2V non-3d board.


----------



## p.las

What is the Best mode for making 5.1 to 7.1? DTS neos. - pro-Logic IIx or thx Cinema ultra 2.

Or Maby it is Best to keep it 5.1 when it's 5.1 and 7.1 when it's 7.1


Any experience anyone?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the Best mode for making 5.1 to 7.1? DTS neos. - pro-Logic IIx or thx Cinema ultra 2.
> 
> Or Maby it is Best to keep it 5.1 when it's 5.1 and 7.1 when it's 7.1
> 
> 
> Any experience anyone?



PLIIx is the choice of most of us, NEO is for 5.1 to 6.1 I believe.

John


----------



## MACCA350

NEO:6 will output to 7.1 but it sends a mono signal to the rears. PLIIx sends a stereo signal to the rears.


I personally use PLIIx Movie to expand all 5/6.1 movies to my 7.1 setup.


Cheers


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> NEO:6 will output to 7.1 but it sends a mono signal to the rears. PLIIx sends a stereo signal to the rears.
> 
> 
> I personally use PLIIx Movie to expand all 5/6.1 movies to my 7.1 setup.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I agree with the above, and would add that my personal preference is NOT to engage the optional THX post processing when already using ARC.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve* /forum/post/21959408
> 
> 
> Upgraded to 2.14b so far so good, D2V non-3d board.



Good to hear! I, unfortunately, had to downgrade today from 2.14a to the release2.10a version. The pink haze i got from exiting thr setup screen and the increased HDMI handshakes with my Oppo95 made it unbearable.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bob pariseau* /forum/post/21959798
> 
> 
> i agree with the above, and would add that my personal preference is not to engage the optional thx post processing when already using arc.
> 
> --bob



+1


----------



## dmusoke

I have component video and stereo RCA audio outputfrom my cable box(Moxi) to the D2v and then have HDMI output to my TV plasma. The audio is fine and the picture colors are fine....except that the video cuts out every 2-3 seconds. What am i doing wrong?


EDIT: When i switch the audio input to optical, it then stutters along with the video.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbailey* /forum/post/21958681
> 
> 
> am having a new problem with my DirecTV satellite box, (HR24) and my D2 processor, (v1.33 sw). The following error message appears when attempting to view HBO channels only,
> 
> 
> Your TV does not support this program's content protection. Replacing the TV's HDMI cable with component cables will allow you to view the program.
> 
> 
> This message ONLY appears when I still have the satellite output connected to the D2 input (whether it is turned on or not). The HDMI connection works fine when going directly to the Panasonic HDTV, (TC-P54V10) and bypassing the D2.
> 
> 
> I presently have the H24 component output cables directly connected to the TV so the D2 does not need to be turned on to watch TV, but I still get the error message UNTIL I disconnect the HDMI connection to the D2. Is this a problem related to hardware in the D2 or can it be resolved with a future software release?
> 
> 
> I called Anthem Tech Support and they first told me to upgrade to v1.33 and it would fix the problem at which time I told the tech it has been that version sw since I bought it. He then advised me to dump the HDMI and go with component cables which I find dissapointing to say the least. I bought the Anthem D2 in the first place for the best sound and audio I could get.
> 
> 
> I KNOW DirecTV is not going to write the code to accept the D2 and it doesn't sound like Anthem cares one way or the other. Does anyone have this issue with the D2V?
> 
> 
> I posted this originally under the title above and posted over here after some sage advise.



You might want to try this


What might be happening is the HDCP (high definition content protection) *in the tv* is stopping you from displaying the picture.

HDCP is an annoying piece of technology that stops people from making perfect digital copies of programs, movies, etc.


What you need to do is go into the Direct TV setup and go to the *audio* output settings, once there change the audio output to PCM audio. You should get your picture back.


Direct tv may have updated something in their system that created the conflict changing it to PCM should fix this.


----------



## AVfile

Normally I use PLIIx but also THX Ultra2 when I feel like toning down a bright soundtrack (such as Terminator 2). I know the purists will balk but I would rather be kind to my ears.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I personally use PLIIx Movie to expand all 5/6.1 movies to my 7.1 setup.



Unfortunately PLIIx cannot be applied to DTS-ES 6.1 right now for some reason.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have component video and stereo RCA audio outputfrom my cable box(Moxi) to the D2v and then have HDMI output to my TV plasma. The audio is fine and the picture colors are fine....except that te video cuts out every 2-3 seconds. What am i doing wrong?



Does the audio drop out as well? My cable box had that problem when using HDMI but component was fine. I think the cable co. fixed it because the problem went away after a while.


----------



## AVfile

Also is that with 2.10 or 2.14a? Bob found a problem with analog video on the latter which was fixed in 2.14b.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21960153
> 
> 
> Does the audio drop out as well? My cable box had that problem when using HDMI but component was fine. I think the cable co. fixed it because the problem went away after a while.



I just amended my original post to add that if i switch the audio input to optical, the audio and video stutter together in sync. If audio input is via RCA analog, then no audio stuttering but assaid before, video stutters.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21960156
> 
> 
> Also is that with 2.10 or 2.14a? Bob found a problem with analog video on the latter which was fixed in 2.14b.



2.10a ... i had rolled back from 2.14a but its hdmi issues forced me to backtrack to the release version.


----------



## p.las

I have tested all tree. And it seams to mé that thx ultra impraces the upper midranges, on the frontspeakers (thx EQ is off) Pro Logic Sound like it's only affekt the surroundspeakers - .

I Think that thx ultra creates a wider surroundstage, but at the same time it is a more diffuse Sound


----------



## AbMagFab

Any update on the availability of the 3D upgrade for existing D2v owners?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab* /forum/post/21960950
> 
> 
> Any update on the availability of the 3D upgrade for existing D2v owners?





I hope the delay doesn't mean there are problems with it.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I hope the delay doesn't mean there are problems with it.



I have no problem with mine







3D works fine.

John


----------



## metallicafreak

Hi All,

Been some time since I was around here (couple years). I know there are and have been plenty of conversations about these products, but I feel reluctant to search the 1000 plus pages.


Two questions:


Statement D2 - was the bug with the video processing chip that should a choppy image like it dropped frames when fed 1080p signals resolved?


Second, any rumors/news of new AV processor products coming?


Thanks


FREAK!


----------



## dweltman

Quick question. I have a relatively full range center channel, but I need to simulate what would happen if I went to smaller center channel and crossed over at 80 or 100 to the right/left (I have no sub). Am I correct that as long as I have ARC on I can't force a full range speaker to be treated as a small center?


----------



## tbailey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/19365203
> 
> 
> A reminder for folks with the original AVM 50 or D2 who might be thinking about installing "test" V1.47f:
> 
> 
> The best info I have is that V1.47f is not going to work on some older production runs of the AVM 50 or D2 hardware.
> 
> 
> Look through the top vent slots of your unit with a flashlight. If you can see that the video board (the big board at the top, right under the slots) is colored red -- even if it is a replacement board, *OR* if you can see that your power supply does *NOT* have the big, toroidal (donut shaped) transformer, then, if either of those is true, your hardware is OK for V1.47f.
> 
> 
> If your power supply HAS the donut, *AND* your video board is gray or green, then your unit *MIGHT* be OK for V1.47f, but there is no easy way for you to tell, so don't install V1.47f without first checking with Anthem tech support.
> 
> --Bob



I just performed the upgrade to 1.47f per Nick's suggestion in an earlier post. The DirecTV programming is fine now so, (knock on wood) the only issue I've found so far is a momemtary audio dropout when adjusting the bass or treble during playback which is no big deal. I knew about the upgrade, but was paranoid because my video board is green, not red. Thank's Nick! You as well a Bob are da' MEN!


----------



## tbailey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/21959881
> 
> 
> You might want to try this
> 
> 
> What might be happening is the HDCP (high definition content protection) *in the tv* is stopping you from displaying the picture.
> 
> HDCP is an annoying piece of technology that stops people from making perfect digital copies of programs, movies, etc.
> 
> 
> What you need to do is go into the Direct TV setup and go to the *audio* output settings, once there change the audio output to PCM audio. You should get your picture back.
> 
> 
> Direct tv may have updated something in their system that created the conflict changing it to PCM should fix this.



I checked this setting on the HR24 satellite box, but the unit did not have the option, only Dolby Digital "on or off". Either way, there's marital bliss back in the Bailey household.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tbailey* /forum/post/21961415
> 
> 
> I checked this setting on the HR24 satellite box, but the unit did not have the option, only Dolby Digital "on or off". Either way, there's marital bliss back in the Bailey household.



And that is most important !


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/21961336
> 
> 
> Quick question. I have a relatively full range center channel, but I need to simulate what would happen if I went to smaller center channel and crossed over at 80 or 100 to the right/left (I have no sub). Am I correct that as long as I have ARC on I can't force a full range speaker to be treated as a small center?



Yes you can. Change parameters in ARC application and upload them to your processor.


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov* /forum/post/21961884
> 
> 
> Yes you can. Change parameters in ARC application and upload them to your processor.



But I thought ARC changed crossover settings in the background and I couldnt control them through the ARC software?




So I think to do the test I want, I have to turn ARC off for the source I am listening to, go into bass managment, turn advanced managment off, xover freg to 80. Then I can toggle my center speaker back and forth from small to large. I am assuming when I set center as small, below 80 goes to my left/right and with center as large, nothing is being crossed out of the center?


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/21962171
> 
> 
> But I thought ARC changed crossover settings in the background and I couldnt control them through the ARC software?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I think to do the test I want, I have to turn ARC off for the source I am listening to, go into bass managment, turn advanced managment off, xover freg to 80. Then I can toggle my center speaker back and forth from small to large. I am assuming when I set center as small, below 80 goes to my left/right and with center as large, nothing is being crossed out of the center?



ARC software allows you to set cut-off frequencies (and specify which speakers are small and which are large) manually for each pair of speakers. Just change it to your liking (but try not to decrease the frequency identified automatically, only increase). Then calculate, upload and you are set. But don't change crossover frequency in processor itself, only in software.


You can create two different ARC sets for movies and music. You can leave everything on auto for music and change center channel speaker to small for movies (as well as modify cut-off frequencies if you like). Then you can switch between these two presets to compare results. It is better than switching ARC off and setting everything manually.


----------



## gtx01

Has anyone had any sound distortion' using v2.14/a/b?


I installed V2.14 last week but didn't have much time to use it before v2.14a came out and I installed that to cure the pink screen problem I was getting when exiting the setup menu. As usual I saved and restored my settings before the install.


What I noticed was that the sound on both stereo music and Sky TV (not so much on blu-ray) was distorted, the most obvious difference being a lot of sibilance. Bass sounded more boomy, imaging not so good, and overall the sound was rough'.


Over the past week I've reloaded my original ARC settings and even redone ARC. I also thought v2.14a may not have installed correctly so installed v2.14b, but no difference. In the end I went back to v2.11, which I've been using for some time, and everything sounds better. I'm still not sure it sounds as good as it did before I installed v2.14 but it may be that I'm now listening for ssssssibilance and just picking out what should be there and never really noticed before. I think I need a holiday away from this and come back with clean ears.


Incidentally, I tried setting the ARC threshold to 5k and 10k, as I do have a peak after 5k, but nothing made a difference. My norm is to have it to set to 10k to smooth out the peak. Anyway, I was previously happy with a 10k setting (and that's how Anthem actually installed the system) so I don't think that's the problem.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21960141
> 
> 
> Normally I use PLIIx but also THX Ultra2 when I feel like toning down a bright soundtrack (such as Terminator 2). I know the purists will balk but I would rather be kind to my ears.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately PLIIx cannot be applied to DTS-ES 6.1 right now for some reason.




Why not use PLIIx and add re-EQ ?........Them you don't have to use the coloring of thx ultra


----------



## tizzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/21963230
> 
> 
> Has anyone had any sound distortion' using v2.14/a/b?
> 
> 
> I installed V2.14 last week but didn't have much time to use it before v2.14a came out and I installed that to cure the pink screen problem I was getting when exiting the setup menu. As usual I saved and restored my settings before the install.
> 
> 
> What I noticed was that the sound on both stereo music and Sky TV (not so much on blu-ray) was distorted, the most obvious difference being a lot of sibilance. Bass sounded more boomy, imaging not so good, and overall the sound was rough'.
> 
> 
> Over the past week I've reloaded my original ARC settings and even redone ARC. I also thought v2.14a may not have installed correctly so installed v2.14b, but no difference. In the end I went back to v2.11, which I've been using for some time, and everything sounds better. I'm still not sure it sounds as good as it did before I installed v2.14 but it may be that I'm now listening for ssssssibilance and just picking out what should be there and never really noticed before. I think I need a holiday away from this and come back with clean ears.
> 
> 
> Incidentally, I tried setting the ARC threshold to 5k and 10k, as I do have a peak after 5k, but nothing made a difference. My norm is to have it to set to 10k to smooth out the peak. Anyway, I was previously happy with a 10k setting (and that's how Anthem actually installed the system) so I don't think that's the problem.



I am on 2.14a now and sound has no problems at all, neither stereo nor multichannel.

I only experienced initially weird behavior after FW update re. HDMI handshaking which could be resolved by reconfiguring the source setup of all devices connected by HDMI.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tizzy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am on 2.14a now and sound has no problems at all, neither stereo nor multichannel.
> 
> I only experienced initially weird behavior after FW update re. HDMI handshaking which could be resolved by reconfiguring the source setup of all devices connected by HDMI.



Same here but with 2.14b. Simply viewing the video output config to check everything was ok then backing out the menus was enough to clear up some initial weirdness. A quick reboot may have been involved too.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21960141
> 
> 
> Unfortunately PLIIx cannot be applied to DTS-ES 6.1 right now for some reason.



Nicely spotted, I rarely watch DVDs and have had my OPPO set to LPCM output so I've never really encountered this. Thanks for pointing it out.


So I chucked in LOTR EE which has DTS-ES DISCRETE 6.1 and had a play. Here's what seems to happen:


1) OPPO bitstreaming - D2v uses NEO:6 I assume because it splits the single discrete rear channel to both rears for 7.1 output, or it's done by anthems own processing. Either way you end up with mono discrete rears.


2) OPPO decoding - OPPO either drops the rear channel or sums it into the sides and outputs LPCM 5.1 which allows the D2v to use PLIIx to expand to 7.1. You end up missing the discrete channel info but you gain stereo rears.


I shut down all speakers and just listened to the sides and rears. Here's what comes out while playing the same scene:


1) OPPO bitstreaming - with just the rears playing you hear very little in that discrete channel, almost no musical score or environmental cues, it seems to be mostly foley and some dialog. The sides handle pretty much all the enveloping musical score and environmental cues, the discrete rear is used very little compared to the sides. Playing all four surrounds and most of the environment is beside you with some few cues expanding behind you.


2) OPPO decoding - with just the rears playing you hear the foley and dialog from the discrete channel(it's either already mixed in the sides as well as the discrete rear by the studio(likely) or the OPPO is mixing it into the sides(unlikely)), but you also hear the musical score and environmental cues. Playing all four surrounds and the music score and environment expands behind you and you are enveloped more evenly increasing immersion while directional cues continue to move throughout that expanded environment.



It is strange that the Anthem doesn't decode the discrete channel then allow PLIIx to expand 6.1 to 7.1, pretty sure other processors do (inc my old Denon 3808, though I'd have to recheck to be certain).

There is a setting in the D2v's Mode preset specifically for DTS-ES which allows you to select PLIIx processing so I'm not sure why it's not applying it. Maybe it only applies to ES Matrix and not Discrete. Or maybe it is applying it and PLIIx on ES Discrete doesn't produce stereo rears, doubt it as I'm pretty sure PLIIx will always produce stereo rears(calling Rodger Dressler) .......might find some ES Matrix tracks and see what it does.


Edit: just checked an ES Matrix track and the anthem does state its decoding ES Matrix and allows PLIIx processing on it.


Cheers


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21965776
> 
> 
> So I chucked in LOTR EE which has DTS-ES DISCRETE 6.1 and had a play. Here's what seems to happen:
> 
> 
> 1) OPPO bitstreaming - D2v uses NEO:6 I assume because it splits the single discrete rear channel to both rears for 7.1 output, or it's done by anthems own processing. Either way you end up with mono discrete rears.



If it is really a 6.1 discrete track, then there is no purpose for Neo:6. The mono rear channel is directly mapped to the 2 rears, -3dB.


Discrete 6.1 trumps applying PLIIx. And there's no easy way around it, other than selecting the DD 5.1EX track. Then you can use PLIIx.



> Quote:
> 2) OPPO decoding - OPPO either drops the rear channel or sums it into the sides and outputs LPCM 5.1 which allows the D2v to use PLIIx to expand to 7.1. You end up missing the discrete channel info but you gain stereo rears.



Yes, the Oppo has the "DTS Essentials" kit, which only does the core 5.1 decoding. The Oppo ignores the Cback channel, so it neither comes out, nor does it get subtracted from the Ls/Rs channels.



> Quote:
> It is strange that the Anthem doesn't decode the discrete channel then allow PLIIx to expand 6.1 to 7.1, pretty sure other processors do (inc my old Denon 3808, though I'd have to recheck to be certain).



PLIIx does not know what to do with a mono or 3-ch signals. It only works with 2 channels (Ls/Rs). It is technically possible to decode only the DTS 5.1 core and feed a PLIIx decoder, so maybe that's what your Denon offered. But I suspect that since 6.1 is a bygone format, there's little interest in dealing with it anymore.



> Quote:
> There is a setting in the D2v's Mode preset specifically for DTS-ES which allows you to select PLIIx processing so I'm not sure why it's not applying it. Maybe it only applies to ES Matrix and not Discrete.



Yes, thanks to the ambiguity of dropping Discrete or Matrix, it gets confusing. In this case DTS-ES is the matrix variety, same as DD EX, so the D2v is allowing you to choose which surround processor to pair it with.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21961027
> 
> 
> I have no problem with mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3D works fine.
> 
> John



That's good, hope to see it soon then, I remember saying that last year.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21965776
> 
> 
> It is strange that the Anthem doesn't decode the discrete channel then allow PLIIx to expand 6.1 to 7.1, pretty sure other processors do (inc my old Denon 3808, though I'd have to recheck to be certain).
> 
> There is a setting in the D2v's Mode preset specifically for DTS-ES which allows you to select PLIIx processing so I'm not sure why it's not applying it.



Thanks for confirming and analyzing my observation further.


I was expecting it to work also. My previous processor was a Lexicon, but now I can't remember if PLIIx worked so it was more likely their own Logic7 processing that I was using with 6.1 sources.


When I reported the issue to Anthem I was led to believe that it SHOULD work and they were looking into it. Now with Roger's kind reply, I guess they have nothing to do except get better at letting us know the AVM/D is working correctly


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/21965840
> 
> 
> Yes, thanks to the ambiguity of dropping Discrete or Matrix, it gets confusing. In this case DTS-ES is the matrix variety, same as DD EX, so the D2v is allowing you to choose which surround processor to pair it with.



I've been through some confusion with Anthem regarding the "DTS-ES" mode preset also. Another limitation people should be aware of is that it only applies to lossy (core) DTS-ES.


Playback of Blu-rays marked as *DTS-HD Master Audio 5.1ES* (eg: some of the Disney Pixar titles) will not be affected by this mode preset. Apparently they are a bit deceiving as there is NO OFFICAL AUDIO FORMAT that offers this particular combination of lossless DTS-HDMA with a matrix encoded ES channel! It simply offers these choices to the decoder:

DTS-HD Master Audio 5.1 (lossless but no ES) for the HD system
DTS-ES 5.1 Matrix (lossy core) for the legacy system


Anthem chooses #1, while other processors may "cop out" and choose #2 with no indication.


So now with your post this all makes sense. If this option was clearly described in the user manual as "mode preset for core DTS-ES Matrix only" it would have avoided confusion on both accounts.


Thank you!


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21966368
> 
> 
> If this option was clearly described in the user manual as "mode preset for core DTS-ES Matrix only" it would have avoided confusion on both accounts.



It does... see sections 3.7 (mode presets) and the note at the bottom of 4.8.9 (on the fly mode selection for DTS).


----------



## Obsidians

Looking at upgrading to separates at some point (coming from the MRX 300) and I'm curious what people recommend for a 7.1 setup in terms of the allocation of amp channels. That is, I was considering doing something like a 2 channel amp for the mains + a 5 channel for the remaining channels, with the 2 channel being the stronger (say, P2 + A5). That seems like a reasonable compromise to me in terms of price / performance. However, that leaves the centre on the 5, and since I do mainly HT, that's kind of a key channel. Since there isn't a P3 + A4 option, or even P1 + P2, what should I be looking at? Adding an M1 is quite a pricey option, not sure that that would be worth it. What does everyone else do?


----------



## TJG55

O

I run the P2 and A5 (with D2) and it is fine!!! The A5's 225w for the center is plenty of power.

TJG


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21937358
> 
> 
> I tried it with a Sony Bravia LCD and get the same problem, only the symptoms are more constant (see attached).



Custom Resolution Manager v1.1.0 uploaded - could you try it? Please be sure that it's used in conjunction with v2.14b, not v2.14a.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Obsidians* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looking at upgrading to separates at some point (coming from the MRX 300) and I'm curious what people recommend for a 7.1 setup in terms of the allocation of amp channels. That is, I was considering doing something like a 2 channel amp for the mains + a 5 channel for the remaining channels, with the 2 channel being the stronger (say, P2 + A5). That seems like a reasonable compromise to me in terms of price / performance. However, that leaves the centre on the 5, and since I do mainly HT, that's kind of a key channel. Since there isn't a P3 + A4 option, or even P1 + P2, what should I be looking at? Adding an M1 is quite a pricey option, not sure that that would be worth it. What does everyone else do?



I use my D2v with an A2 for fronts, as I am a stereo guy for music, and an A5 for the centre and 4 surrounds. The centre, during movies, sounds terrific. Depending on your room dimensions, speaker impedances and sensitivity, the A2 and A5 could easily do the job for a lot less cash.

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I use my D2v with an A2 for fronts, as I am a stereo guy for music, and an A5 for the centre and 4 surrounds. The centre, during movies, sounds terrific. Depending on your room dimensions, speaker impedances and sensitivity, the A2 and A5 could easily do the job for a lot less cash.
> 
> John



Me too! I second this recommendation. The A2 sounds very nice with music, probably easier on the ears than the P2. I compared it directly to my much bigger, more expensive amp (Simaudio W5) on large inefficient speakers and it surprised me. The A2 actually sounded better in some ways.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

To anyone using v2.14b and finding that the picture is tinted upon switching sources or exiting setup menu:


Before reporting this to tech support, please press and hold 7 on the remote control or Display on the front panel. This superimposes the on-screen video processor menu - let tech support know whether it's also tinted. As well, how often the problem appears and model numbers of everything involved - we're still unable to reproduce it. Thanks


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21974029
> 
> 
> The A2 sounds very nice with music, probably easier on the ears than the P2.



Not sure which would win a blind comparison if any preference is found at all within the A2's power limit, though the P2's distortion is barely measurable on an Audio Precision. As well, the residual as seen on an o'scope is the cleanest I've ever seen from a power amp, and the noise background is completely random.


Going in the other direction, another money saving option - MCA 30 for the three fronts, PVA 4 for the surrounds. I always say let the budget decide. Don't spend too little or you'll be spending more by replacing it sooner than expected, don't spend too much or you'll find it harder to enjoy.


----------



## p.las

Hello.

After i have placed 2 surround back in my room, i am now usling PLIIx to make 7.1 from 5.1 . It works wery well. But tonight i was seen LOTR FOTR EX . On this disc there is DTS hd 6.1.

When i engage PLIIx the overall volume became about 3 dB higher. This is not the case when it is DTS hd 5.1 ore true Hd . Any who have also experienced this minor issue ?


----------



## bsoko2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/21976649
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> After i have placed 2 surround back in my room, i am now usling PLIIx to make 7.1 from 5.1 . It works wery well. But tonight i was seen LOTR FOTR EX . On this disc there is DTS hd 6.1.
> 
> When i engage PLIIx the overall volume became about 3 dB higher. This is not the case when it is DTS hd 5.1 ore true Hd . Any who have also experienced this minor issue ?



I have a Pioneer SC-57 and get the same thing with Dolby audio. Alot of Pio users have reported the same thing.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/21976649
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> After i have placed 2 surround back in my room, i am now usling PLIIx to make 7.1 from 5.1 . It works wery well. But tonight i was seen LOTR FOTR EX . On this disc there is DTS hd 6.1.
> 
> When i engage PLIIx the overall volume became about 3 dB higher. This is not the case when it is DTS hd 5.1 ore true Hd . Any who have also experienced this minor issue ?



Known issues: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post20844765 


Have a look at 1) and it's references about DTS 5.1 and DTS-HDMA 5.1 PLIIx level issues.


Also posted this about DTS-ES (not the HD codecs), you'll note that only ES Matrix allows application of PLIIx. It's possible that the above PLIIx bug also applies to DTS-ES Matrix, since as Rodger Dressler mentioned the 6th rear channel is ignored in such a case.


As for HDMA 6.1, I've never tested it but there is definitly a link with DTS and this PLIIx bug.


Cheers


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21974554
> 
> 
> To anyone using v2.14b and finding that the picture is tinted upon switching sources or exiting setup menu:
> 
> 
> Before reporting this to tech support, please press and hold 7 on the remote control or Display on the front panel. This superimposes the on-screen video processor menu - let tech support know whether it's also tinted. As well, how often the problem appears and model numbers of everything involved - we're still unable to reproduce it. Thanks



On screen video overlay is normal color(i think). Since its translucent, the purple haze is seen thru the screen so its tough to determine if its hazed or not.


I gave my details to Andrew a few days ago. I had the purpople haze in 2.14a when exiting the setup menu but not so much in 2.14b. I get it in 2.14b when i switch between the component and HDMI video streams from my cable box into my D2v(the reasons i do that do not matter for now). I output HDMI RGB to my plasma TV(Pioneer KURO PRO151FD).


Purple haze is observed on the HDMI stream while video blanking of 1-4 seconds is observed when switching to the component stream. I have to cycle the power to eliminate these problems.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21978014
> 
> 
> Also posted this about DTS-ES (not the HD codecs), you'll note that only ES Matrix allows application of PLIIx. It's possible that the above PLIIx bug also applies to DTS-ES Matrix, since as Rodger Dressler mentioned the 6th rear channel is ignored in such a case.
> 
> 
> As for HDMA 6.1, I've never tested it but there is definitly a link with DTS and this PLIIx bug.



I just tested HDMA 6.1 (star wars) and was so shocked that PLIIx engaged that I forgot all about the level issue. As I just recently reported, PLIIx will not engage for DTS-ES 6.1 with the Anthem and I accepted Rodger's explanation for that, but now we have a contradiction. So can we come to an agreement, with Anthem, on what the official position is on applying PLIIx to 6.1 channel sources?


By they way, it even allows NEO6 to be applied but I'm guessing that won't do anything at all given that the source is already 6.1? I hope it doesn't drop the real 6th channel and try to construct a fake 6th channel!


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21978014
> 
> 
> Known issues: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post20844765
> 
> 
> Have a look at 1) and it's references about DTS 5.1 and DTS-HDMA 5.1 PLIIx level issues.
> 
> 
> Also posted this about DTS-ES (not the HD codecs), you'll note that only ES Matrix allows application of PLIIx. It's possible that the above PLIIx bug also applies to DTS-ES Matrix, since as Rodger Dressler mentioned the 6th rear channel is ignored in such a case.
> 
> 
> As for HDMA 6.1, I've never tested it but there is definitly a link with DTS and this PLIIx bug.
> 
> 
> Cheers



hmm. i can applie PLIIx to DTS HD 6.1 - but it is 3db to hot. This is not the case with DTS HD 5.1. my findings tell me that there is no issue with DTS HD 5.1 + PLIIx. Only when it is 6.1........No PLIIx on 7.1 materiel is possible

My processor is AVM 50v.

offcurse i have the DTS HD isse regards L/R fronts


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> hmm. i can applie PLIIx to DTS HD 6.1 - but it is 3db to hot. This is not the case with DTS HD 5.1. my findings tell me that there is no issue with DTS HD 5.1 + PLIIx. Only when it is 6.1........No PLIIx on 7.1 materiel is possible
> 
> My processor is AVM 50v.
> 
> offcurse i have the DTS HD isse regards L/R fronts



You're right, I found the Star Wars 6.1 disc especially loud but didn't realize it was partly due to PLIIx.


THX Ultra2 Cinema can also be applied instead. It tones it down a notch but who knows what it's doing with that CR channel... Maybe it is dropped.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> It does... see sections 3.7 (mode presets) and the note at the bottom of 4.8.9 (on the fly mode selection for DTS).



Sorry Nick, I did read 3.7 before posting but must have missed the last sentence which is nice and clear!


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/21978561
> 
> 
> hmm. i can applie PLIIx to DTS HD 6.1 - but it is 3db to hot.



maybe its not really discrete 6.1 but has an ES Matrix flag or something




> Quote:
> This is not the case with DTS HD 5.1. my findings tell me that there is no issue with DTS HD 5.1 + PLIIx. Only when it is 6.1



Interesting, heres what I found with War of the Worlds (AU release) DTS-HDMA 5.1









Thats the Morgan Freeman narration at the start of the movie so mostly Center channel dialog. Certainly showed PLIIx increase by 3dB



> Quote:
> My processor is AVM 50v.
> 
> offcurse i have the DTS HD isse regards L/R fronts



I'm running the last official D2v firmware(v2.10), so maybe there's a difference. Should point out though that I'm not certain what fw version I was running when I ran the above test.


Cheers


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21978620
> 
> 
> maybe its not really discrete 6.1 but has an ES Matrix flag or something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting, heres what I found with War of the Worlds (AU release) DTS-HDMA 5.1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats the Morgan Freeman narration at the start of the movie so mostly Center channel dialog. Certainly showed PLIIx increase by 3dB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running the last official D2v firmware(v2.10), so maybe there's a difference. Should point out though that I'm not certain what fw version I was running when I ran the above test.
> 
> 
> Cheers



i will try some different movies at se what happens. lat night it was ...In time - Transformers II - U571 - TFTF - cant remember the last one


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/21978638
> 
> 
> i will try some different movies at se what happens. lat night it was ...In time - Transformers II - U571 - TFTF - cant remember the last one



Just had a play with Avatar DTS-HDMA 5.1 and there doesn't seem to be an increase with PLIIx either bitstreaming nor when decoding in the player and outputting as LPCM 5.1


Strange, I can't seem to get that PLIIx bug to show up.......might have to setup my test equipment and run the tests again.


cheers


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21978676
> 
> 
> Just had a play with Avatar DTS-HDMA 5.1 and there doesn't seem to be an increase with PLIIx either bitstreaming nor when decoding in the player and outputting as LPCM 5.1
> 
> 
> Strange, I can't seem to get that PLIIx bug to show up.......might have to setup my test equipment and run the tests again.
> 
> 
> cheers



okay.

this will say that PLIIx only increase the volume when it is DTS HD 6.1..........for now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I have my Comcast HD/DVR hooked up both by HDMI and Component for video (and Optical for audio). I just spent some time switching the D2v between the two inputs multiple times, and had no instances at all of Shocking Pink video in either direction of change.


The HD/DVR was sending 1080i, and YCbCr 4:4:4 for the HDMI connection. The D2v was sending RGB Studio Level, 8-bit, to my Display.


It is probably relevant that the HDMI from the Comcast was connected to one of the new style HDMI inputs in the Beta upgrade hardware.


This is with the latest "test" firmware: V2.14b.


I've also had no problems going in and out of the Setup menu.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/21978679
> 
> 
> okay.
> 
> this will say that PLIIx only increase the volume when it is DTS HD 6.1..........for now.



Well it's got me quite baffled as I went through some quite extensive and vigorous testing which proved PLIIx caused an increase of 3dB on atleast LPCM 5.1 without a doubt. And it wasn't just me, others tested and had the same observations.


I'm pretty certain those tests were conducted on my current fw 2.10. So it has me perplexed.


I'm not looking forward to it but it looks like I will have to get the test gear out and spend a day running some thorough tests again.


Edit: Here's one of the old tests










Cheers


----------



## p.las

I have almost forgotten. DTS HD 7.1 only the fronts are Down by 3 dB. When it is DTS HD 5.1 the center and the side/rears is 3db to hot...wasent that the case?


----------



## p.las

Yes i Got the DTS HD issue right.


I Will try som testing to Night regards PLIIx issue


----------



## AVfile

Why not conduct these tests with the LATEST beta firmware? The DTS front level issue was fixed several versions ago, and no matter what you report to Anthem they will probably ask you to try the latest version.


Bob said a minor issue with 7.1 was introduced in the latest 2.14 and they're working on it, so you might want to request 2.13g from Anthem for your regular listening (not tests).


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why not conduct these tests with the beta firmware? The DTS front level issue was fixed several versions ago, and no matter what you report to Anthem they will probably ask you to try the latest version.
> 
> 
> Bob said a minor issue with 7.1 was introduced in 2.14 and they're working on it, so you might want to try 2.13g if you can find it.



Which version of firmware was the DTS front speaker volume issue fixed on?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21978379
> 
> 
> I just tested HDMA 6.1 (star wars) and was so shocked that PLIIx engaged...



PLIIx is displayed but that doesn't mean it's engaged. Unfortunately the logic only allows a true/false state with regard to yes it's surround / no it's not, and this determines which surround modes can be applied. When "funny" formats such as 3.0, 4.0, or this case are received, there's no easy way to say "N/A" when the mode button is pressed. It would be ideal though would require huge code changes to do it kludge-style to make up for the fact that no third, fourth, etc. state exists.


So, it is what it is - the selection is displayed but otherwise ignored. Does DTS-MA 6.1 _sound_ different when comparing between mode selections including None?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21979445
> 
> 
> Bob said a minor issue with 7.1 was introduced in 2.14 and they're working on it, so you might want to try 2.13g if you can find it.



It would be a waste of time if the issue does not exist in current beta.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx* /forum/post/21979470
> 
> 
> Which version of firmware was the DTS front speaker volume issue fixed on?



I don't know ... But I think it was somewhere in the 2.12 range.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21978014
> 
> 
> It's possible that the above PLIIx bug also applies to DTS-ES Matrix, since as Rodger Dressler mentioned the 6th rear channel is ignored in such a case.



Two things need to be understood before going further with this:


1. Roger was referring to a player's decoding, which is 5.1 core only. AVM/D always use the lossless track where present. When in doubt, press Status/Select enough times to display the audio input format and populated channels.


2. DTS-ES Matrix is a lossy 5.1-channel format. The 6th "channel" is the result of upmix upon playback. DTS-ES Matrix is the same as Neo:6 Cinema other than being flagged in the source. This info and how/where Matrix applies is in all AVM/D manuals since AVM 20 v2.1, when EX and ES appeared almost 10 years ago.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21979493
> 
> 
> I don't know, there wasn't any announcement from Nick and it's not in the release notes ... But I think it was somewhere in the 2.12 range.
> 
> 
> I announced it here but I'm sure many people missed it (for obvious reasons).



Yeah, I saw when you mentioned it had been fixed. I just haven't got access to the beta fw to test it. I did request through Anthem Australia but in our conversations they never gave me the access details, from memory they said they requested through Anthem USA but never received an answer. I gave up and decided to just test the official fw when it's released.


Cheers


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21979547
> 
> 
> Yeah, I saw when you mentioned it had been fixed. I just haven't got access to the beta fw to test it. I did request through Anthem Australia but in our conversations they never gave me the access details, from memory they said they requested through Anthem USA but never received an answer. Do I gave up and decided to just test the official fw when it's released.
> 
> 
> Cheers



That's rediculous that an Anthem distributor doesn't know the Anthem tech support download particulars. Maybe they should ask Anthem CANADA not USA


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The volume problem across the fronts with DTS-HD MA Bitstreams was fixed fairly early in the set of test firmware releases for the new hardware. I forget the exact release number.


There are undoubtedly other bugs still to be fixed, but the specific problem I'm keeping an eye on right now is that DTS-HD MA 7.1 Bitstreams produce output in the wrong speakers. Specifically content intended for LS is also coming out in LF, and content intended for RS is also coming out in RF. I don't consider this a minor problem, but since it is probably related to the decoder implementation, I'm not optimistic it will get fixed all that fast. The workaround is to use LPCM input for DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21979557
> 
> 
> That's rediculous that an Anthem distributor doesn't know the Anthem tech support download particulars. Maybe they should ask Anthem CANADA not USA



Pretty sure they have access but probably had to ask head office(sorry, I assumed USA) permission to hand it out










Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21979584
> 
> 
> The workaround is to use LPCM input for DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks.
> 
> --Bob



Which is what I've been doing since those tests, not just for HDMA 7.1 but for everything










Cheers


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21979588
> 
> 
> Pretty sure they have access but probably had to ask head office(sorry, I assumed USA) permission to hand it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers



You can ASK Directly from Tech Support for Beta Access
http://anthemav.com/Contact-Technical-Support


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I was doing some testing with the Disney "WOW World of Wonder" SD-DVD calibration and sampler disc set. The 2nd disc in this set, called "Visions", includes a sampling of 5-10 minute long clips of various sorts.


Much to my surprise, I found some of these clips used the rare DTS 5.0 96KHz 24-bit format. I believe this is the first time I've seen that format used on an SD-DVD that was not specifically a "music only" disc.


When I sent that as HDMI Bitstream to the D2v it recognized and handled it just fine.


Cool!


(The "DTS Essentials" decoder in the OPPO players decodes that as only LPCM 48KHz.)

--Bob


----------



## p.las

Where do you find these beta versions off the software? I Can only find vs2.10


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where do you find these beta versions off the software? I Can only find vs2.10



They are on a password protected download page. Anthem has asked us not to hand out the access info. It's no big secret -- if you just ask Tech Support they will likely give it to you -- but this gives them a chance to keep some sort of tabs on who is using this stuff, and also to make sure you understand that "test" firmware is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises.


Since this latest set of test firmware is associated with hardware that is not shipping yet, Anthem may be stricter on who gets access for the moment.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21979547
> 
> 
> I just haven't got access to the beta fw to test it.


 [email protected] or in case the firewall thinks it's spam from a first-time sender use

http://www.anthemav.com/Contact-Technical-Support 


We're testing v2.14d today and possibly tomorrow so you might want to get the password now and download tomorrow or the day after. In this version it's all motherboard changes to clean up minor glitches, not HDMI fixes which are pretty much done. A last minute change targets 3.0 and 6.1 input to prevent inapplicable mode selections from being displayed.


And again, my habits regarding monitoring AVS intermittently revolve around beta testing being in high gear - for all other issues and at all other times contact tech support.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21979785
> 
> 
> ...and also to make sure you understand that "test" firmware is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises.



That's exactly what it's all about. All too often people read these boards without realizing that this is test software being talked about, not a general release nor in production.


----------



## chileboy

After some earlier posts and helpful replies here, I went ahead and got myself an HDFury2, which I love (Thanks, Bob P. and AVFile!). I'm using the HDMI inputs and output now for everything (and the S-Video from my laserdisc) and couldn't be happier. Especially glad about being able to use the HDMI from my Roku.


So, now of course, I want to tinker with it, for no particularly good reason other than the learning experience.


My Toshiba will accept up to 540p / 1080i on its input. I was trying to set up a custom resolution for 540p, but I am just not "getting" the software. I was able to backup my current config, and pull the config from the processor into the software. Then went onto the "Custom" branch, and as a start, loaded in some of the predefined, standard resolutions (that I know work with my set, a Toshiba 65HX81), and then, using the sliders, set the "Active" H x V to 960 x 540. But I have no idea what the other settings should be. Is there a chart or tutorial somewhere? I did search before asking, really!


I also couldn't figure out how to "Upload" the settings to the Anthem, at least, unless I am misunderstanding something. I clicked on "Load", and it says it was successful, but if I exit the software, restart it and click "Get", shouldn't my Custom settings show in the software again? It just reverts to the defaults that are in there before "Get"ing anything.


Many thanks.


- Mark


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21979632
> 
> 
> Much to my surprise, I found some of these clips used the rare DTS 5.0 96KHz 24-bit format. I believe this is the first time I've seen that format used on an SD-DVD that was not specifically a "music only" disc.



Some music videos (Peter Gabriel Play, Queen Rock Montreal, Neil Young) used DTS 96/24 (5.1). Possible reason that it didn't appear on movie DVDs is that it ran at the full 1509 or 1536 kbps DTS lossy rate, which doesn't fit on a feature length DVD with bonus materials, which is why the DTS laser disc and theatrical rate was cut in half for DTS DVD movie releases. This was widely unknown without the help of a prepro had an audio bit rate display, as AVM was among the first to, or until DTS-HD promo material mentioning this appeared. (Side topic - the full rate did happen to fit on DTS promo DVDs containing movie highlights...)


----------



## Kris Deering

There were a few full bitrate DTS Audio tracks on DVD. Most of the first titles that appeared with DTS tracks had them (albeit not with any features though!). I think Warner did a few full bitrate samples too, but that didn't last long.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21980034
> 
> 
> Some music videos (Peter Gabriel Play, Queen Rock Montreal, Neil Young) used DTS 96/24 (5.1). Possible reason that it didn't appear on movie DVDs is that it ran at the full 1509 Mbps DTS lossy rate, which doesn't fit on a feature length DVD, which is why the DTS laser disc and theatrical rate was cut in half for DTS DVD movie releases.



Full bitrate DTS soundtracks do indeed fit on DVD. The Sony Superbit discs used it on some releases, such as Antz. But those discs were stripped down to a single language, no extras, to compensate.


As Kris mentioned, Warner did a few discs as a test. Twister, Interview With A Vampire, and the Lethal Weapon trilogy.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy* /forum/post/21979874
> 
> 
> I was trying to set up a custom resolution for 540p, but I am just not "getting" the software. I was able to backup my current config, and pull the config from the processor into the software. Then went onto the "Custom" branch, and as a start, loaded in some of the predefined, standard resolutions (that I know work with my set, a Toshiba 65HX81), and then, using the sliders, set the "Active" H x V to 960 x 540. But I have no idea what the other settings should be.
> 
> 
> I also couldn't figure out how to "Upload" the settings to the Anthem, at least, unless I am misunderstanding something. I clicked on "Load", and it says it was successful, but if I exit the software, restart it and click "Get", shouldn't my Custom settings show in the software again? It just reverts to the defaults that are in there before "Get"ing anything.



You need to use CustomResolutionManager which is a new stand-alone program included with the beta firmware. The custom resolution part of LVSE is not working, but the rest of it should work (I used it for custom Gamma only).


Not sure when exactly you are supposed to Get or Load but I followed a similar process to yours and it went well. Fortunately the Gamma adjustments are made on the fly (live) so you can take screen measurements while making adjustments. I'm not sure if a LOAD is required to make them permanent, but it seems to do no harm.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering* /forum/post/21980103
> 
> 
> There were a few full bitrate DTS Audio tracks on DVD. Most of the first titles that appeared with DTS tracks had them (albeit not with any features though!). I think Warner did a few full bitrate samples too, but that didn't last long.



True, but imo just another curio all things considered. Compression still depended on running time. Point I was trying to make is that audio on at least 98% of DTS DVDs is 768 kbps for a reason, which is maybe why 96/24 is so rare.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/21979788
> 
> [email protected] or in case the firewall thinks it's spam from a first-time sender use
> 
> http://www.anthemav.com/Contact-Technical-Support
> 
> 
> We're testing v2.14d today and possibly tomorrow so you might want to get the password now and download tomorrow or the day after. In this version it's all motherboard changes to clean up minor glitches, not HDMI fixes which are pretty much done. A last minute change targets 3.0 and 6.1 input to prevent inapplicable mode selections from being displayed.
> 
> 
> And again, my habits regarding monitoring AVS intermittently revolve around beta testing being in high gear - for all other issues and at all other times contact tech support.



Done










Cheers


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21981577
> 
> 
> Done



You downloaded 2.14d already?


Just kidding










It's good to hear they're working on it... I love getting new firmware in time for the weekend


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/21981577
> 
> 
> Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers



Are you going to test if the issues is are historie?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21978882
> 
> 
> I have my Comcast HD/DVR hooked up both by HDMI and Component for video (and Optical for audio). I just spent some time switching the D2v between the two inputs multiple times, and had no instances at all of Shocking Pink video in either direction of change.
> 
> 
> The HD/DVR was sending 1080i, and YCbCr 4:4:4 for the HDMI connection. The D2v was sending RGB Studio Level, 8-bit, to my Display.
> 
> 
> It is probably relevant that the HDMI from the Comcast was connected to one of the new style HDMI inputs in the Beta upgrade hardware.
> 
> 
> This is with the latest "test" firmware: V2.14b.
> 
> 
> I've also had no problems going in and out of the Setup menu.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Thanks for taking the time to test this feature on your system. I tried different outp resolutions from auto to 12-bits. I got the pink screen within a3-4 clicks switching back and forth from HDMI and component.


The main difference between your system and mine is that i have 2D hardware and you have 3D hardware. I'm also running at a resolution of 1920x1080p/60 to my TV though I tried other resolutions at 1080i and 720p and got similar results. I even told my Moxi cable box to output video at only 1080i which didn't help resolve the problems. Pink screens on the component feed and video blanking in and out on the HDMI feed










I'm at a loss as to what would cause these problems on my system with v2.14b







.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Shocking Pink or Ghastly Green video are symptoms that the two ends of the cable are in disagreement over whether YCbCr or RGB data format is in use.


Of course this is not supposed to be possible. It is a handshake failure.


As with all handshake failures, reducing bandwidth of the signals (lower resolution or Deep Color disabled so you only use 24 bits per pixel) and improving HDMI cabling are the common things to try.


But for THIS failure in particular, the usual trick is to get every device to use an explicit choice of data format (YCbCr or RGB) rather than using an Auto setting to let the handshake figure it out. In the case of the Anthem, that's set in the Video Output Configuration for output to your display. But you should also look for a setting in your Source devices that selects a fixed data format.


Now Component analog video is always YPbPr -- the Analog equivalent of YCbCr for Digital video. So if your Source or Display prefers RGB then there is a format switch that has to happen. In my case I'm always sending RGB from the D2v to my display, and my Comcast box is set to use YCbCr on HDMI, so that matches the YPbPr it uses for Component.


The Resolutions in use may also be a factor. And of course, as you state, the fact that I'm using the new HDMI hardware for the Comcast input is almost certainly relevant.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21982862
> 
> 
> Shocking Pink or Ghastly Green video are symptoms that the two ends of the cable are in disagreement over whether YCbCr or RGB data format is in use.
> 
> 
> Of course this is not supposed to be possible. It is a handshake failure.
> 
> 
> As with all handshake failures, reducing bandwidth of the signals (lower resolution or Deep Color disabled so you only use 24 bits per pixel) and improving HDMI cabling are the common things to try.
> 
> 
> But for THIS failure in particular, the usual trick is to get every device to use an explicit choice of data format (YCbCr or RGB) rather than using an Auto setting to let the handshake figure it out. In the case of the Anthem, that's set in the Video Output Configuration for output to your display. But you should also look for a setting in your Source devices that selects a fixed data format.
> 
> 
> Now Component analog video is always YPbPr -- the Analog equivalent of YCbCr for Digital video. So if your Source or Display prefers RGB then there is a format switch that has to happen. In my case I'm always sending RGB from the D2v to my display, and my Comcast box is set to use YCbCr on HDMI, so that matches the YPbPr it uses for Component.
> 
> 
> The Resolutions in use may also be a factor. And of course, as you state, the fact that I'm using the new HDMI hardware for the Comcast input is almost certainly relevant.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob ...all my settings from the cable box, D2v and TV are explicitly set. No settings on AUTO as i have had more failures in the past using this setting option.


----------



## dmusoke

Aufdiogon has a 4-month old AVM50v for sale for those interested at a steal







!


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21980263
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy* /forum/post/21979874
> 
> 
> After some earlier posts and helpful replies here, I went ahead and got myself an HDFury2, which I love (Thanks, Bob P. and AVFile!). I'm using the HDMI inputs and output now for everything (and the S-Video from my laserdisc) and couldn't be happier. Especially glad about being able to use the HDMI from my Roku.
> 
> 
> So, now of course, I want to tinker with it, for no particularly good reason other than the learning experience.
> 
> 
> My Toshiba will accept up to 540p / 1080i on its input. I was trying to set up a custom resolution for 540p, but I am just not "getting" the software. I was able to backup my current config, and pull the config from the processor into the software. Then went onto the "Custom" branch, and as a start, loaded in some of the predefined, standard resolutions (that I know work with my set, a Toshiba 65HX81), and then, using the sliders, set the "Active" H x V to 960 x 540. But I have no idea what the other settings should be. Is there a chart or tutorial somewhere? I did search before asking, really!
> 
> 
> I also couldn't figure out how to "Upload" the settings to the Anthem, at least, unless I am misunderstanding something. I clicked on "Load", and it says it was successful, but if I exit the software, restart it and click "Get", shouldn't my Custom settings show in the software again? It just reverts to the defaults that are in there before "Get"ing anything.
> 
> 
> Many thanks.
> 
> 
> - Mark
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to use CustomResolutionManager which is a new stand-alone program included with the beta firmware. The custom resolution part of LVSE is not working, but the rest of it should work (I used it for custom Gamma only).
> 
> 
> Not sure when exactly you are supposed to Get or Load but I followed a similar process to yours and it went well. Fortunately the Gamma adjustments are made on the fly (live) so you can take screen measurements while making adjustments. I'm not sure if a LOAD is required to make them permanent, but it seems to do no harm.
Click to expand...


Remember my unit is an AVM50 ARC, so that won't work for me...I have to use the Live Video Settings Editor I believe.


I'm not even at the Gamma adjustment level yet...I'd just like to get the Custom Resolution sorted out as a starting point...


Thanks,


- Mark


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

v2.14d is on the password protected site.


1. HDCP change which may improve cable box operation.


2. Fixes for displayed info - alignment, mode selection, Dolby Volume status.


----------



## gerard1meehan

It has been a very long time since I have read this thread, so I apologize if this has been addressed a million times already. But I have been reading some of the posts and see people referring to firmware updates higher then 2.10, while the Anthem site shows nothing past 2.10


Where do I find the 2.13, or the 2.14 (once finalized)???



G


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It has been a very long time since I have read this thread, so I apologize if this has been addressed a million times already. But I have been reading some of the posts and see people referring to firmware updates higher then 2.10, while the Anthem site shows nothing past 2.10
> 
> 
> Where do I find the 2.13, or the 2.14 (once finalized)???
> 
> 
> G



Call Anthem Tech support for the password to the protected support site. They prefer we don't give it as they like to keep track of who is using the various beta releases which you are referring to. Once finalized you can find it in the usual place on the Anthem site.

John


----------



## gerard1meehan

Wow, Did not even know there was such a site! could you post teh address?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow, Did not even know there was such a site! could you post teh address?



You'll need the password to access the site and Anthem gives that out and the site address.

John


----------



## Texas steve

Installed 2.14D, so far so good. (D2V, non 3-D, came from 2.14B)


----------



## SimonNo10

Well I tried putting 2.14d on (previous firmware 2.13g) and it failed 10mins into it, to click retry and nothing. Getting error "Unit cannot be found) and now the D2v wont turn on. This is the first time this has happened installing new firmware. I made sure I selected the corrected D2v firmware etc. Anyway of recovering the unit?


Not happy. My mate just tried his 50v and the same thing has happened, but his running windows 7 where as I'm running XP and never had issues with connectivity.


How do you recover the unit to get the laptop to see it again? I pressed retry but because the unit is off after it fails so I'm getting the error message that the unit can't be found, so how can a user retry it?


----------



## rovingtravler

At a min shut down then boot the computer. Also fully un[p[lug the D2v and make sure it is completely reset. See if you can get into the menu or if the unit will load at all then try to connect again.


Also make sure firewalls and anti virus are off.


Hope it works.


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21986076
> 
> 
> Well I tried putting 2.14d on (previous firmware 2.13g) and it failed 10mins into it, to click retry and nothing. Getting error "Unit cannot be found) and now the D2v wont turn on. This is the first time this has happened installing new firmware. I made sure I selected the corrected D2v firmware etc. Anyway of recovering the unit?
> 
> 
> Not happy. My mate just tried his 50v and the same thing has happened, but his running windows 7 where as I'm running XP and never had issues with connectivity.
> 
> 
> How do you recover the unit to get the laptop to see it again? I pressed retry but because the unit is off after it fails so I'm getting the error message that the unit can't be found, so how can a user retry it?



I just updated my 50v (old 2d boards) to 2.14d. Everything went well.


----------



## SimonNo10

My mate was able to recover his but he doesn't know how but he put back on 2.11 and it installed without issues. I can't even get that far (tried 2.11) and it looks like my D2v (2d) isn't getting power as the front display normally shows a slight green haze (I call it that) and it's not there. I've tried a different power point changing com ports etc nothing is working.


Is there a reset switch on the main motherboard that I try? Any suggestions to recover my unit? Can't believe this is happening. Silly software that says retry but if unit is off how can it talk to it after failure? Makes no sense.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ Any recollection of the error message, e.g. failed eeprom programming?


Knowing it would really help but if you don't remember, try Flash Eraser. It's on the same page as the beta software. Download Data Analyzer too in case it's needed later. Then try v2.14d again. If Flash Eraser doesn't unlock it, send an e-mail to [email protected] and further instructions will follow.


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi Nick. No eeprom message just said update failed please retry or something so I did and nothing.I have downloaded the Flash Eraser so will give that a try. Will report back shortly.


*Update* Flash Eraser does not find the unit so can't progress any further. Looks to me that the unit isn't getting any power at all as the front display isn't showing the normal signs (described in my earlier post) so that's why nothing is working. So looks like a bricked unit. Once again for the forth time I will have to send this my D2v to the repair center (previous 2 units both arrived with DOA video boards). I'm not having any luck with the Anthem units and something as simple as a firmware update totally ruins a unit is just plain frustrating and stupid.


Another $100 for freight (all up) and time off work....great.


----------



## dmusoke

Bricked my D2v as well from v2.14b (2D version) .... It fails to find the Anthem unit now. It began to program the EEPROM till the progress bar reached the very end and then froze and said like "Can't find D2v...check serial port connections ...etc". (Sigh!) .... Will try flash erase.


*UPDATE*


Flash erase failed. Seems the unit is totally dead as no extrenal lights seem to come on at all. I see internal green lights so unit is receiving power. Very unresponsive and annoying indeed!!!


BTW ... All inputs and outputs are disconnected from the D2v!


----------



## SimonNo10

What the hell is going on here. Another failed upload on a D2v?? I'm seriously questioning Anthems testing now as this is just unacceptable in this day and age. Hope you can restore your unit dmusoke fingers crossed but sounds like exactly the same as what happened to mine. Knew I should have just stayed with 2.13g but you don't know until you try. Just find it strange that a user can't restore a unit after a failed upload with the retry function. Bizarre.


----------



## BladeRnR

That's just appalling. A firmware bricking units? Does Anthem perform any form of testing before releasing BETA files?


2 people with bricked units using a standard procedure. Unacceptable.











Blade


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21986472
> 
> 
> What the hell is going on here. Another failed upload on a D2v?? I'm seriously questioning Anthems testing now as this is just unacceptable in this day and age. Hope you can restore your unit dmusoke fingers crossed but sounds like exactly the same as what happened to mine. Knew I should have just stayed with 2.13g but you don't know until you try. Just find it strange that a user can't restore a unit after a failed upload with the retry function. Bizarre.



This unit is the center of my entire HT system. With it dead, its like those times when power is cut ny the utility company and everything goes dark and strangely quite.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BladeRnR* /forum/post/21986503
> 
> 
> That's just appalling. A firmware bricking units? Does Anthem perform any form of testing before releasing BETA files?
> 
> 
> 2 people with bricked units using a standard procedure. Unacceptable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blade



I agree that their beta testing needs much improvement. What are the chances that two separate units die within minutes of each other???


----------



## SimonNo10

I'm the same as you mate it's the center of my HT without it I can't watch anything. I'm in Australia so weekend just started and now I can't enjoy my Blu-Rays which is what I do as I work shift during the week and it's too late when I get home to put anything on so weekends are my only opportunity to watch movies.


Hope Anthem has a method to recover our units without the need to send to a repairer.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21986535
> 
> 
> I'm the same as you mate it's the center of my HT without it I can't watch anything. I'm in Australia so weekend just started and now I can't enjoy my Blu-Rays which is what I do as I work shift during the week and it's too late when I get home to put anything on so weekends are my only opportunity to watch movies.
> 
> 
> Hope Anthem has a method to recover our units without the need to send to a repairer.



Last time this happened was on my 50v more than 2 years ago. I had to ship the unit back to Canada for repair. They had a more robust version of flash erase enabled them to erase the eeprom and other stuff and then reset the unit to the then current FW version. Took 1 week between me shippin it and receiving it from east coast in Canada. I'm on the west coast of the US.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Not good. Here's something to try.


Power down the computer.


Turn off back panel power switch on the Anthem.


Pull power cord for the Anthem. Leave the Anthem unplugged for about 15 minutes.


Meanwhile, disconnect wall power for everything else in your system. Leave it disconnected in what follows.


Power up just the computer. Download a fresh copy of Flash Eraser. Note that there are two versions of Flash Eraser. You want to use the one for units with video.


Reboot your computer after you get that fresh download. Double check all the connections are tight in the serial cabling to the Anthem.


By now, 15 minutes should have passed. Reconnect wall power to the Anthem and turn on its back power switch (only). Do NOT try to power up the Anthem. Only the Anthem and your computer should have wall power.


Try running Flash Eraser again. If it fails the first time. Try it a few more times.


If Flash Eraser fails, I'm afraid the odds are the unit will need to be sent in to service for a factory reset. So do keep trying.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If still no luck, do send an email to Anthem with your situation (email address in Nick's post above). There's still a chance they can figure out a reset sequence you can do without having to send the unit in.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It is correct that the unit is OFF when running Flash Eraser. If the unit has wall power and the back panel power switch is ON, then the serial port used by Flash Eraser is live.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21986608
> 
> 
> If still no luck, do send an email to Anthem with your situation (email address in Nick's post above). There's still a chance they can figure out a reset sequence you can do without having to send the unit in.
> 
> --Bob



Done that already. I've disconnected all inputs and outputs and turned off wall power to the D2v. I will leave it on all night and try again in the morning ... Fingers crossed










I'm now using my stereo 2-Ch preamp (NAD 1155) i had in college more than 25 years ago as my 'prepro' between my cable box and TV! I really wish for the simple days







...


----------



## SimonNo10

Tried your suggestion Bob no luck. Tried Flash Eraser (version 2.3) 10 times same outcome.



> Quote:
> If the unit has wall power and the back panel power switch is ON, then the serial port used by Flash Eraser is live.



But if the main board in the D2v isn't getting any power at all then no communication will happen between the laptop and the D2v, this is what I believe is happening. So this new firmware really does kill the board completely in both our cases which is just ridiculous. Just like current motherboards there should be a backup made so if any error happens the software will revert back to the previous firmware/bios. Can't believe such a simple procedure can brick a $10,000 processor.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm afraid this is one of those "unpleasant surprises" I keep harping on about. There's a reason "test" software is on a password protected download page.


I say again, folks should NOT try running "test" software unless you have a high tolerance for potential problems. At the very least, don't be the first to jump on new "test" software the instant it comes out unless you are fully prepared to take a bullet for the community.


I know Anthem runs such software installs through numerous test units before they get moved to the password protected page. And Nick, of course, always installs on his own personal unit as well before moving the firmware to that page.


It is unusual for a problem like this to crop up this late in a release cycle. The changes that are being made in the firmware at this point are just not that dramatic. There WAS a problem like this early in the Beta testing of the new hardware, but back then big swatches of the firmware were changing all at the same time. A bug was introduced that had the potential for screwing up the programming of the main board. I suppose it is possible that, somehow, that bug has been re-introduced in V2.14d.


For now, my recommendation is that folks with access to that password protected download page hold off trying to install V2.14d until Nick has a chance to work with Engineering and get a handle on what's happened.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21986694
> 
> 
> Tried your suggestion Bob no luck. Tried Flash Eraser (version 2.3) 10 times same outcome.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion.



Send and email to the address in Nick's post above. There are additional things they may want you to try before concluding the unit has to go back for a factory reset.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Summary of the situation:


v2.14d has been pulled from the password protected beta site and we just tried every 2D and 3D unit at hand again, both at home and in the software department's office, rolling back to v2.14b then installing v2.14d to see if anything fails. No hiccups. We've been testing v2.14d on many units for the past couple of days with no issue whatsoever until now. What we're left with is two cases of failed installs. If unplugging the power cord for 15 minutes (this is plenty of time, overnight won't do anything more) followed by another software installation attempt doesn't work, there's one thing left -- special commands specific to the situation -- before the last resort of sending units back to the factory. I'll be communicating to SimonNo10 and dmusoke directly.


Also of note, these programming failures are almost surely on the motherboard. While 2D vs 3D hardware needs its own version of HDMI code, the motherboard is the same therefore 2D vs 3D hardware has nothing to do with these failures. Since the programming worked on many other units, be they in the office or in the field, 2D and 3D, the prime suspect is none other than a communication problem between PC and D2v during the programming and though it all might sound a little too coincidental, there's nothing to rule it out. A broken installer would have more likely bricked all units.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21986694
> 
> 
> Tried your suggestion Bob no luck. Tried Flash Eraser (version 2.3) 10 times same outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if the main board in the D2v isn't getting any power at all then no communication will happen between the laptop and the D2v, this is what I believe is happening. So this new firmware really does kill the board completely in both our cases which is just ridiculous. Just like current motherboards there should be a backup made so if any error happens the software will revert back to the previous firmware/bios. Can't believe such a simple procedure can brick a $10,000 processor.



Short of the power supply failing (quite a coincidence) or a cable coming loose there's nothing a failed install can do to keep the serial port from being powered when the unit is plugged in to a live socket and its back panel power switch is ON. The communication and control stuff used by Flash Eraser operates at a very low level. The main board is not "booted up".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If you are using the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter, double check the connection between the USB cable (coming from the computer) and the body of the adapter. Particularly in newer Keyspan units, that connection seems to have a tendency to wiggle loose.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks Nick. Really hoping your fix will resolves this issue for us both. As mentioned I've changed nothing in the tools that I use to update firmware or ARC so no idea what the issue now is if I'm using the exact same hardware (Laptop running XP and serial cable that I've always used $45 cable). LED's on end to indicate transmission on the serial cable so it's not a cheap one.


Looking forward to your proposed solution.


Bob it's the first thing I always double/triple check is the connections







. This is the serial cable I'm using:

http://easysync-ltd.com/product/527/es-u-1001-r100.html


----------



## AVfile

Screen saver or power management kicking in during upload?


----------



## SimonNo10

Always disabled.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21986783
> 
> 
> This is the serial cable I'm using:
> 
> http://easysync-ltd.com/product/527/es-u-1001-r100.html



Note that this is a USB-serial adapter not a serial cable, strictly speaking.


----------



## SimonNo10

Yes but I have that connected to an extension cable (1m) that plugs directly into the Anthem. Has always worked until now. My brother who also owns a D2v also uses the same cables as me and never had any issues. It's not a cable or connection issue (no offence) as the cable end that goes into the D2v is screwed on using both screw points on the cable so it can't loosen or fall out. Same goes for the adapter serial cable connecting to the extension cable it's screwed in. The led light flash when it's connected to the laptop so it's communicating fine and was working when I performed the update. As mentioned I didn't do anything different than I have done many times before.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21986866
> 
> 
> As mentioned I didn't do anything different than I have done many times before.



That's good to know, but when trying to diagnose an issue it's equally good to know whether an adapter is involved. Mention of "cable" instead of "adapter" a few posts up threw me off a bit. (A serial extension cable is used regardless.)


----------



## SimonNo10

Apologies for any confusion caused.


----------



## dmusoke

I experience everything that Simon see's in his D2v as well except that i have Win 7 Professional on my Dell laptop. The RS232 is screwed in tight permanently at the back end of the D2v and i've tried all USB ports on my laptop with no success. I even reset the serial port settings to the default numbers of 9600,N,8. It didn't help. Resetting the laptop mutliple times and downloading fresh copies of flash erase and v2.14d firmware haven't helped either.


I hope Nick comes to rescue quick ...one odd thing he asked me was the kind of FM connector i had on the backend of my D2v, whether it was it smooth or threaded. Apparently, the resolution he comes up with depends on this... Wonder what this is all about.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21986967
> 
> 
> I experience everything that Simon see's in his D2v as well except that i have Win 7 Professional on my Dell laptop. The RS232 is screwed in tight permanently at the back end of the D2v and i've tried all USB ports on my laptop with no success. I even reset the serial port settings to the default numbers of 9600,N,8. It didn't help. Resetting the laptop mutliple times and downloading fresh copies of flash erase and v2.14d firmware haven't helped either.
> 
> 
> I hope Nick comes to rescue quick ...one odd thing he asked me was the kind of FM connector i had on the backend of my D2v, whether it was it smooth or threaded. Apparently, the resolution he comes up with depends on this... Wonder what this is all about.



^ That's simply a way for them to get some info on what production version of board you have in your unit without having to open up the chassis.


They have a utility which can query the unit for such info, but of course it won't run if the unit is bricked.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Well followed Nicks instructions to the letter using the Data Analyzer program and it didn't work so it's a bricked unit. Not happy. I can understand Bob about the warnings about using Beta but it should install and not fail 10mins into it, warnings are for the firmwares actual use after it installs that I can agree with.


Denon can get this right with their flagship pre-pro I just wish Anthem could be the same. Oh well back in the box once again (2nd time with this unit) and organize a courier next week to have it sent to my local (over 30kms away) repairer. Good times....NOT!!.


Thanks Bob and Nick for your continued assistance. Appreciate it.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21987073
> 
> 
> Well followed Nicks instructions to the letter using the Data Analyzer program and it didn't work so it's a bricked unit. Not happy. I can understand Bob about the warnings about using Beta but it should install and not fail 10mins into it, warnings are for the firmwares actual use after it installs that I can agree with.
> 
> 
> Denon can get this right with their flagship pre-pro I just wish Anthem could be the same. Oh well back in the box once again (2nd time with this unit) and organize a courier next week to have it sent to my local (over 30kms away) repairer. Good times....NOT!!.
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob and Nick for your continued assistance. Appreciate it.



Followed the same instructions on using the Data Analyzer program he recommended and it simply refused to work. I hope they perform a quick turn around of less than 4 days.


BTW, is the 3-D board 4K compatible?


----------



## SimonNo10

Sorry to hear mate. Yep wasted a whole day with this, very frustrating and pissed off. No idea when I can take the morning off to be home for the courier and they make their own times as well. Around the Anthem Merry go Round we go







.


----------



## spiderv6

Yikes. Sorry guys.


I had planned to install the latest version today to see if the HDMI Audio issue (with my Dune Prime) was solved - all the other recent beta releases did not work for me.


I guess I will stick with what I have.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21987183
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear mate. Yep wasted a whole day with this, very frustrating and pissed off. No idea when I can take the morning off to be home for the courier and they make their own times as well. Around the Anthem Merry go Round we go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Anthem is looking into having me re-program the motheboardr myself using a dongle like this http://www.kanda.com/products/Kanda/AVRISP-U.html . I'm ok with it. Will keep you posted...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6* /forum/post/21987459
> 
> 
> Yikes. Sorry guys.
> 
> 
> I had planned to install the latest version today to see if the HDMI Audio issue (with my Dune Prime) was solved - all the other recent beta releases did not work for me.
> 
> 
> I guess I will stick with what I have.



Its been pulled from the website so you are safe







. Unfortunately, its things like this that makes folks to shy away from beta testing their firmware. It wouldn't be so bad if one could easiliy uninstall the buggy FW. I remember the days of yore when all you had to do to reset your motherboard's bios was to short the pins of its EEPROMs or simply move a jumper to reset the bios







.


I don't think 2.14d is buggy in of itself but the process of programming the FW using (Windows machines?) RS232-USB converters is still somewhat buggy. When it fails, you really in for a bad day!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Anthem is looking into having me re-program the motheboardr myself using a dongle like this http://www.kanda.com/products/Kanda/AVRISP-U.html . I'm ok with it. Will keep you posted...
> 
> 
> Its been pulled from the website so you are safe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Unfortunately, its things like this that makes folks to shy away from beta testing their firmware. It wouldn't be so bad if one could easiliy uninstall the buggy FW. I remember the days of yore when all you had to do to reset your motherboard's bios was to short the pins of its EEPROMs or simply move a jumper to reset the bios
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> I don't think 2.14d is buggy in of itself but the process of programming the FW using (Windows machines?) RS232-USB converters is still somewhat buggy. When it fails, you really in for a bad day!



I remember those computer days and shorting the pins with fondness










BTW, with 2.14b I didn't get any pink flashing from the setup menu or changing sources. This is with the new HDMI 3D passthrough.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21988010
> 
> 
> I remember those computer days and shorting the pins with fondness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, with 2.14b I didn't get any pink flashing from the setup menu or changing sources.
> 
> John



You must be BLESSED is all i can say







!


Would you know if the new 3D board is 4K compatible?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You must be BLESSED is all i can say
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> Would you know if the new 3D board is 4K compatible?



This new HDMI board simply allows pass through so whatever is sent can go through unprocessed. So I don't know what happens if sent a 4K signal, but it seems nothing would happen and the signal would go through untouched. Perhaps Bob or Nick have a different explanation.

John


----------



## MStanic

Wow, sorry to hear about the bricked units. Nothing worse with electronics then when they fail; particularly, because of a firmware update that's suppose to make them perform better. Hope you all get your units back pronto.


I did update to 2.14d and it went okay. Is 2.14d then okay to run? Nontheless, I'm to nervous to even entertain the idea of downgrading or upgrading now. Beta or not, firmware updates are always suspect to failure. At any point, the power could go out or your computer could crash. It's no different than errors causing computer crashes or programs not to respond. Can't Anthem make it so that a backup FW is always resident in the D2v. This way, a sequence of actions could allow the D2v to boot up with the backup firmware so that at least the unit will restore to working condition should a failure occur when upgrading.


Anybody have any ideas on this problem for me though not related to the D2v.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1409053 


Thanks.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/21988136
> 
> 
> Wow, sorry to hear about the bricked units. Nothing worse with electronics then when they fail; particularly, because of a firmware update that's suppose to make them perform better. Hope you all get your units back pronto.
> 
> 
> I did update to 2.14d and it went okay. Is 2.14d then okay to run? Nontheless, I'm to nervous to even entertain the idea of downgrading or upgrading now. Beta or not, firmware updates are always suspect to failure. At any point, the power could go out or your computer could crash. It's no different than errors causing computer crashes or programs not to respond. Can't Anthem make it so that a backup FW is always resident in the D2v. This way, a sequence of actions could allow the D2v to boot up with the backup firmware so that at least the unit will restore to working condition should a failure occur when upgrading.
> 
> 
> Anybody have any ideas on this problem for me though not related to the D2v.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1409053
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I believe 2.14d is ok to run once successfully loaded. Others, like oyu are running it fine! Your video blinking problem i get on component video from my cabel box with v2.14b hence my eagerness to change to 2.14d.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow, sorry to hear about the bricked units. Nothing worse with electronics then when they fail; particularly, because of a firmware update that's suppose to make them perform better. Hope you all get your units back pronto.
> 
> 
> I did update to 2.14d and it went okay. Is 2.14d then okay to run? Nontheless, I'm to nervous to even entertain the idea of downgrading or upgrading now. Beta or not, firmware updates are always suspect to failure. At any point, the power could go out or your computer could crash. It's no different than errors causing computer crashes or programs not to respond. Can't Anthem make it so that a backup FW is always resident in the D2v. This way, a sequence of actions could allow the D2v to boot up with the backup firmware so that at least the unit will restore to working condition should a failure occur when upgrading.
> 
> 
> Anybody have any ideas on this problem for me though not related to the D2v.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1409053
> 
> 
> Thanks.



If already installed, no need to worry.

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Custom Resolution Manager v1.1.0 uploaded - could you try it? Please be sure that it's used in conjunction with v2.14b, not v2.14a.



Tried it ... Still no joy


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Anthem is looking into having me re-program the motheboardr myself using a dongle



I'm happy to use this method as well but I'm in Australia so I wonder if I can purchase this locally rather than waiting for it to be shipped. Will do some searching on the net. Much prefer this solution than boxing the unit up and going through the whole courier thing.


Thanks Nick for this idea.


*Update* Think I will just purchase this from Kanda and save myself some time and effort finding a similar local version. Safer to purchase one recommended by Nick. $91 including express shipping to Australia.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21988074
> 
> 
> This new HDMI board simply allows pass through so whatever is sent can go through unprocessed. So I don't know what happens if sent a 4K signal, but it seems nothing would happen and the signal would go through untouched. Perhaps Bob or Nick have a different explanation.
> 
> John



I don't have any 4K Sources to try it with, but I'd be surprised if 4K works.


The problem is that the HDMI is never truly "pass through" in an AVR or pre-pro as if the AVR were just some sort of passive switch. The HDMI video needs to be recognized so that the audio can be extracted from it. (HDMI audio is embedded in the blanking intervals of HDMI video).


And I don't think the circuits that do that are capable of handling a 4K HDMI signal. I.e., the Anthem will likely tell the Source that it can only accept up to 1920x1080p 36-bit (plus 3D) -- even when set to use "pass through" for the video.


As I said, since I can't test it, I can't be sure, but I don't think it likely.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't have any 4K Sources to try it with, but I'd be surprised if 4K works.
> 
> 
> The problem is that the HDMI is never truly "pass through" in an AVR or pre-pro as if the AVR were just some sort of passive switch. The HDMI video needs to be recognized so that the audio can be extracted from it. (HDMI audio is embedded in the blanking intervals of HDMI video).
> 
> 
> And I don't think the circuits that do that are capable of handling a 4K HDMI signal. I.e., the Anthem will likely tell the Source that it can only accept up to 1920x1080p 36-bit (plus 3D) -- even when set to use "pass through" for the video.
> 
> 
> As I said, since I can't test it, I can't be sure, but I don't think it likely.
> 
> --Bob



That makes sense. Thanks.

John


----------



## chiliman

A little help if possible folks. Ive searched the thread without definitive answers. I'm working to get my iPad assigned to an input on my avm 50 via the Apple hdmi adapter. It is going to a Marantz 11s2. I am unable to get the Anthem to either recognize the signal &/or scale it out via the hdmi out. If I hook the iPad directly to the projector it works fine. Anyone currently doing this and have some input? I've tried nearly every source and output setting combination I think I can. Is this an Apple issue (Steve Jobs controlling my life from the grave) or an Anthem issue?


All inout is always appreciated.


Randy


----------



## MStanic

So what's going on with the upgrade to 3D for the D2v and/or new D2v units with 3D capability? How long are we going to sit on beta firmware before Anthem moves forward with this? Also, what about pricing for the upgrade and turnaround time? Are any of you running the 3D board yet? I think you are running it right Bob? If so, can you comment on the performance?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So what's going on with the upgrade to 3D for the D2v and/or new D2v units with 3D capability? How long are we going to sit on beta firmware before Anthem moves forward with this? Also, what about pricing for the upgrade and turnaround time? Are any of you running the 3D board yet? I think you are running it right Bob? If so, can you comment on the performance?



I tested 3D on mine with the new hdmi board, and it works perfectly. Price to be around $500 and possibly dealer installed. Still waiting for QC to give the go ahead. If you have ever worked on computers swapping video cards , this would be very easy to do. Of course grounding yourself would be prudent









John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Anthem is looking into having me re-program the motheboard myself using a dongle



Hey Nick. If we do go ahead with the reprogramming of the motherboard ourselves, is the unit still covered under warranty if something else goes wrong?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/21991710
> 
> 
> A little help if possible folks. Ive searched the thread without definitive answers. I'm working to get my iPad assigned to an input on my avm 50 via the Apple hdmi adapter. It is going to a Marantz 11s2. I am unable to get the Anthem to either recognize the signal &/or scale it out via the hdmi out. If I hook the iPad directly to the projector it works fine. Anyone currently doing this and have some input? I've tried nearly every source and output setting combination I think I can. Is this an Apple issue (Steve Jobs controlling my life from the grave) or an Anthem issue?
> 
> 
> All inout is always appreciated.
> 
> 
> Randy



The new ipad has a maximum resolution of 2048x1536. The ipad2 has a 1024x768 resolution. So if you have the ipad2, you should be able to display its sceen easily thru the 50v. If using the new ipad, you might want to use AUTO and if that fails then tuse the Custom Resolution Manager to program the custom horizontal and vertical pixel sizes into the 50v.


According to the apple site:


*TV and Video Specdfor the new IPAD*


• AirPlay Mirroring to Apple TV (2nd and 3rd generation) at 720p

• AirPlay video streaming to Apple TV (3rd generation) at up to 1080p and Apple TV (2nd generation) at up to 720p

• Video mirroring and video out support: Up to 1080p with Apple Digital AV Adapter or Apple VGA Adapter (adapters sold separately)

• Video out support at 576i and 480i with Apple Composite AV Cable (cable sold separately)

• Video formats supported: H.264 video up to 1080p, 30 frames per second, High Profile level 4.1 with AAC-LC audio up to 160 Kbps, 48kHz, stereo audio in .m4v, .mp4, and .mov file formats; MPEG-4 video up to 2.5 Mbps, 640 by 480 pixels, 30 frames per second, Simple Profile with AAC-LC audio up to 160 Kbps per channel, 48kHz, stereo audio in .m4v, .mp4, and .mov file formats; Motion JPEG (M-JPEG) up to 35 Mbps, 1280 by 720 pixels, 30 frames per second, audio in ulaw, PCM stereo audio in .avi file format.



*TV and Video Specd for the IPAD2*.


• AirPlay Mirroring to Apple TV support at 720p

• Video mirroring and video out support: Up to 1080p with Apple Digital AV Adapter or Apple VGA Adapter (adapters sold separately)

• Video out support at 576p and 480p with Apple Component AV Cable; 576i and 480i with Apple Composite AV Cable (cables sold separately)

• Video formats supported: H.264 video up to 1080p, 30 frames per second, High Profile level 4.1 with AAC-LC audio up to 160 Kbps, 48kHz, stereo audio in .m4v, .mp4, and .mov file formats; MPEG-4 video up to 2.5 Mbps, 640 by 480 pixels, 30 frames per second, Simple Profile with AAC-LC audio up to 160 Kbps per channel, 48kHz, stereo audio in .m4v, .mp4, and .mov file formats; Motion JPEG (M-JPEG) up to 35 Mbps, 1280 by 720 pixels, 30 frames per second, audio in ulaw, PCM stereo audio in .avi file format


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ He's trying to use the iPad as an HDMI Source, not an HDMI Display. Custom Resolution Manager does not apply.


---------------------------------


Apple has a long history of strange HDMI implementations. Not "wrong", just "strange". I don't believe we've had any reports here of anyone using an iPad as an HDMI Source device. It used to be that the Anthem units could not handle HDMI input from the AppleTV, but that was fixed some time ago. It could be as simple as the iPad's HDMI implementation does not handle "repeater" processing -- i.e., it expects to be directly connected to a TV with no AVR in between.

--Bob


----------



## MStanic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/21992003
> 
> 
> I tested 3D on mine with the new hdmi board, and it works perfectly. Price to be around $500 and possibly dealer installed. Still waiting for QC to give the go ahead. If you have ever worked on computers swapping video cards , this would be very easy to do. Of course grounding yourself would be prudent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Wow, dealer installed or hopefully self installed. Yes, I have swapped dozens of video cards and build my own PC's so it should be fairly straightforward then. It would be nice if Anthem could ship those boards to us along with some instructions on the swap or send to the dealers so they can upgrade it on the spot. We shall see. Thanks for the update.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ My information is it is definitely intended to be a dealer or distributor install -- not a return to the factory.


Doing it as a user install is probably problematic because of warranty issues if the user zaps a board with static electricity or otherwise fumbles what's really a pretty simple procedure.


A firmware install will also likely be needed after the boards are in place so that the new hardware gets properly recognized and initialized, even if you were already running the new firmware.


In many ways it will be like the "ARC Upgrade" offered to original AVM 50 owners, which included a board swap out (at the dealer) and a firmware re-install.


I want to caution that there is no solid information on the upgrade pricing yet.


Expect that the hardware will first ship as factory pre-installed in NEW units, and THEN upgrade stuff will be offered for existing units. One good reason for this is it allows the factory to do the final verification of the production hardware -- test rigs and burn in and such -- to establish a baseline for whether there is any reason to worry upgrade boards might show problems only when installed in the field.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21993036
> 
> 
> ^ He's trying to use the iPad as an HDMI Source, not an HDMI Display. Custom Resolution Manager does not apply.
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> Apple has a long history of strange HDMI implementations. Not "wrong", just "strange". I don't believe we've had any reports here of anyone using an iPad as an HDMI Source device. It used to be that the Anthem units could not handle HDMI input from the AppleTV, but that was fixed some time ago. It could be as simple as the iPad's HDMI implementation does not handle "repeater" processing -- i.e., it expects to be directly connected to a TV with no AVR in between.
> 
> --Bob



CRM programs the Anthem units to accept custom input resolutions, correct? If so abd the problem is an odd ball HDMI resolution from the Ipad, then why wouldn;t CRm work for him?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21994140
> 
> 
> CRM programs the Anthem ubits to accept custome input resolutions, correct?



ubits? No, it programs the Anthem for custom *output* resolution.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/21994989
> 
> 
> ubits? No, it programs the Anthem for custom *output* resolution.










... i meant units. Thanks for clarifying thta CRM deals with output resolutions.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/21991710
> 
> 
> A little help if possible folks. Ive searched the thread without definitive answers. I'm working to get my iPad assigned to an input on my avm 50 via the Apple hdmi adapter. It is going to a Marantz 11s2. I am unable to get the Anthem to either recognize the signal &/or scale it out via the hdmi out. If I hook the iPad directly to the projector it works fine. Anyone currently doing this and have some input? I've tried nearly every source and output setting combination I think I can. Is this an Apple issue (Steve Jobs controlling my life from the grave) or an Anthem issue?
> 
> 
> All inout is always appreciated.
> 
> 
> Randy



Since nobody has chimed in saying they got their iPad to work, your best bet is probably to send an email to Anthem tech support to see if they have any info on using the iPad as an HDMI Source device.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem has placed a new version of the V2.14d "test" firmware on the password protected download page.


This version is identified as "V2.14d (May 5)". Often such naming means the firmware itself has not changed, but the installer application has been updated.


There's nothing in the release notes specifically addressing what's different about this "May 5" version, and I've not heard from Nick yet whether he thinks this version is OK for testers to use, or is intended for just a few people to nab to help validate the installation process.


I recommend you *NOT* install this "May 5" version until we hear more. Personally, I'm going to wait.


Stay tuned.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

I received an e-mail from Nick regarding the new version and he said Quote:

*"We tried it on every "v" unit at hand, which includes every hardware version new and old, and there was no issue"*


I hope Nick you don't mind me posting this as it should reassure others that you have indeed tested it thoroughly. Still take Bob's advice and only put in on if you really need to and it fixes issues on your unit.


*Update*


I borrowed my mates Keyspan adapter (Came with his 50v) and tried it with the Eraser and Data Analyzer programs and nothing changed. So I've 100% ruled out cables and I had the D2v connected to my main pc running Windows 7 Ultimate Edition. What has annoyed me with all of this is that a simple failed install (10mins into install) and the message saying "if fails press retry" and it didn't even work. How can firmware brick a D2v during an install and a failed one as well and not allow the user to use the retry function?? I just don't get it.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21997101
> 
> 
> How can firmware brick a D2v during an install and a failed one as well and not allow the user to use the retry function?? I just don't get it.



Never hurts to ask and to everything there's a reason. v2.14d rebuild was not intended to wake up non-communicative motherboards - only the boot loader programming I sent last night can do that.


Whenever power-on time is increased we get negative reaction to it -- consider that the 5.1-channel AVM 2 took only 2-3 seconds to power on with the slower processor of its day -- and building in a user reset would increase it even more, but in light of these last two incidents we're considering it.


As an alpha tester as well as beta I completely understand how inconvenient it has been since Friday, and we're doing everything we can to get your and dmusoke's units running again as quickly as possible (the Australian distributor is also standing by), but imagine how many times software has been loaded into an AVM/D relative to how often it has crashed. The "which problem are we trying to fix" question is always part of the picture and I know of only one other time that this sort of thing has happened in all AVM/D beta testing.


ETA: That e-mail also mentioned a zip attachment containing motherboard code and installation instructions using the Kanda connector. If the attachment, which did not have an executable within, did not arrive let me know via e-mail. Your motherboard has to be reprogrammed before the usual software can be installed.


----------



## chiliman

Thanks all on the iPad input. I think Bob's right, send the email out and if Anthem has a suggestion.


Randy


----------



## matty1137

If I choose 'Yes' to 'Bypass LFE Crossover' in my D2 will that automatically disengage ARC? ARC has currently set my LFE crossover to 75, and I fear I may be losing some LFE information with option set to 'Yes'.


----------



## jayray

Just loaded the new 2.14d and it went fine. Testing some stuff now.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matty1137* /forum/post/21998146
> 
> 
> If I choose 'Yes' to 'Bypass LFE Crossover' in my D2 will that automatically disengage ARC? ARC has currently set my LFE crossover to 75, and I fear I may be losing some LFE information with option set to 'Yes'.



No. The Bypass LFE Crossover setting, whichever way it is might be set, is ignored both during ARC Measurements, and also during normal listening for any Source with Room EQ = ON.


However, not to worry. ARC treats LFE specially. Think of what ARC does as a more sophisticated form of Bypass LFE Crossover. The same is true at the other end -- e.g., the Boundary Gain Compensation and THX Ultra2 Sub settings. ARC ignores those as well and handles all that stuff automagically for you down there.

--Bob


----------



## matty1137




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21998296
> 
> 
> No. The Bypass LFE Crossover setting, whichever way it is might be set, is ignored both during ARC Measurements, and also during normal listening for any Source with Room EQ = ON.
> 
> 
> However, not to worry. ARC treats LFE specially. Think of what ARC does as a more sophisticated form of Bypass LFE Crossover. The same is true at the other end -- e.g., the Boundary Gain Compensation and THX Ultra2 Sub settings. ARC ignores those as well and handles all that stuff automagically for you down there.
> 
> --Bob



Awesome, That's good to know! I feel much better. Thanks, Bob.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/21998296
> 
> 
> No. The Bypass LFE Crossover setting, whichever way it is might be set, is ignored both during ARC Measurements, and also during normal listening for any Source with Room EQ = ON.
> 
> 
> However, not to worry. ARC treats LFE specially. Think of what ARC does as a more sophisticated form of Bypass LFE Crossover. The same is true at the other end -- e.g., the Boundary Gain Compensation and THX Ultra2 Sub settings. ARC ignores those as well and handles all that stuff automagically for you down there.
> 
> --Bob



I like your creativeness !


"automagically"


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ They've always said I certainly do away with words.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Installed "test" firmware V2.14d(May 5) and re-Uploaded my existing ARC solution.


No problems. This is on a D2v with the Beta 3D "pass through" hardware.


The firmware passes all of my initial sanity checks.


The firmware version is, once again, properly displayed when you press the Select button.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Installed "test" firmware V2.14d(May 5) and re-Uploaded my existing ARC solution.
> 
> 
> No problems. This is on a D2v with the Beta 3D "pass through" hardware.
> 
> 
> The firmware passes all of my initial sanity checks.
> 
> 
> The firmware version is, once again, properly displayed when you press the Select button.
> 
> --Bob



So far mine passed too, also with beta 3D "pass through", display is corrected too.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/21988867
> 
> 
> I'm happy to use this method as well but I'm in Australia so I wonder if I can purchase this locally rather than waiting for it to be shipped. Will do some searching on the net. Much prefer this solution than boxing the unit up and going through the whole courier thing.
> 
> 
> Thanks Nick for this idea.
> 
> 
> *Update* Think I will just purchase this from Kanda and save myself some time and effort finding a similar local version. Safer to purchase one recommended by Nick. $91 including express shipping to Australia.



Simon:


Have you recieved your programmer? If so, please ask Nick for the programming files and instructions to program your D2v. He's already sent these files to me. My programmer was ordered yesterday morning and shipped today will arrive Thursday







. In the meantime, i wait listening to all 5.1 content in stereo, direct output from my cable box







.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/21999861
> 
> 
> Simon:
> 
> 
> Have you received your programmer? If so, please ask Nick for the programming files and instructions to program your D2v. He's already sent these files to me. My programmer was ordered yesterday morning and shipped today will arrive Thursday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . In the meantime, i wait listening to all 5.1 content in stereo, direct output from my cable box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



No received an e-mail saying it will be shipped today (that was yesterday) so I don't know if it will arrive in time for this weekend (I'm in Australia). I did receive the e-mail from Nick with the loader etc so that's covered. Look forward to how you go with it as I'm sure you will get yours first.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> No received an e-mail saying it will be shipped today (that was yesterday) so I don't know if it will arrive in time for this weekend (I'm in Australia). I did receive the e-mail from Nick with the loader etc so that's covered. Look forward to how you go with it as I'm sure you will get yours first.



You guys could retire and become Anthem Motherboard programmers. Do you think there'd be enough work









John


----------



## MrKegFlex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Installed "test" firmware V2.14d(May 5) and re-Uploaded my existing ARC solution.
> 
> 
> No problems. This is on a D2v with the Beta 3D "pass through" hardware.
> 
> 
> The firmware passes all of my initial sanity checks.
> 
> 
> The firmware version is, once again, properly displayed when you press the Select button.
> 
> --Bob



For 50v without 3D hardware owners -


Installed v2.14d(May 5) test firmware and reloaded my ARC solution, everything seems to be working fine.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22000376
> 
> 
> You guys could retire and become Anthem Motherboard programmers. Do you think there'd be enough work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Hmmm you might be onto something


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm you might be onto something



Good luck with it









John


----------



## steven2583

I have a couple of questions.


1. The 3D hardware board. Does that replace the whole video processor board? Any idea of pricing yet?


2. I'm having sync issues with my D2v and my Oppo 93. My Directv and D2 always comes up sometimes it takes 5-10 seconds. My Oppo sometimes takes up to 45 seconds to pull up a picture. Sometimes the picture is split. Right side of screen starts in the middle and goes over the the right. The left side of the screen is on the right. This also happens with my son's PS3 too. My the DirectTv never does that. Sometimes I have to switch the source back and forth between SAT input and Oppo input for it to sync and get a picture. It seems to be getting worse compared to 6 months ago. I have firmware 2.13f I believe. Last time I updated it was in November. I had to back down one version after I tried to upgrade in December because the picture was not showing. Has anyone been having these types of issues. They are driving me nuts.


----------



## Texas steve

I have D2v, non 3d board with 2.14d with Oppo 83 and have no problems.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583* /forum/post/22003846
> 
> 
> I have a couple of questions.
> 
> 
> 1. The 3D hardware board. Does that replace the whole video processor board? Any idea of pricing yet?
> 
> 
> 2. I'm having sync issues with my D2v and my Oppo 93. My Directv and D2 always comes up sometimes it takes 5-10 seconds. My Oppo sometimes takes up to 45 seconds to pull up a picture. Sometimes the picture is split. Right side of screen starts in the middle and goes over the the right. The left side of the screen is on the right. This also happens with my son's PS3 too. My the DirectTv never does that. Sometimes I have to switch the source back and forth between SAT input and Oppo input for it to sync and get a picture. It seems to be getting worse compared to 6 months ago. I have firmware 2.13f I believe. Last time I updated it was in November. I had to back down one version after I tried to upgrade in December because the picture was not showing. Has anyone been having these types of issues. They are driving me nuts.


----------



## chiliman

Is there a quick link on what the 2.14 version is updating or improving over the 2.11?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a quick link on what the 2.14 version is updating or improving over the 2.11?



It's in the folder of the latest beta version. Just download and read all the changes for the last number of versions.

John


----------



## chiliman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22004527
> 
> 
> It's in the folder of the latest beta version. Just download and read all the changes for the last number of versions.
> 
> John



Not seeing it on the Anthem site, assistance in pointing me that way is appreciated.


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Not seeing it on the Anthem site, assistance in pointing me that way is appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks



It's on the tech password protected page where the beta firmware is. Password obtainable from tech support.

John


----------



## chiliman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22004669
> 
> 
> It's on the tech password protected page where the beta firmware is. Password obtainable from tech support.
> 
> John



That's what I thought. I'm just interested in knowing the changes/improvements to consider getting the file. Is there any documentation to read anywhere? I could go ask Tech Support for it but figured why bother them when I'm not sure if I even want to do it.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/22004703
> 
> 
> That's what I thought. I'm just interested in knowing the changes/improvements to consider getting the file. Is there any documentation to read anywhere? I could go ask Tech Support for it but figured why bother them when I'm not sure if I even want to do it.



IT COULD SAY ----


CHANGE LIST


v2.14d


1. HDCP change which may improve cable box operation.


2. Fixes for displayed info - alignment, mode selection, Dolby Volume status.


If using Custom Resolution Manager, be sure it's v1.1.0, not the previous version.



v2.14b


1. Analog input video adjustments in video processing menu stopped working in an earlier beta - fixed.


2. Custom output resolution sometimes resulted in double screen when switching from interlaced output configuration - fixed.


v2.14a


1. More HDMI changes to address some issues, particularly with cable boxes, more so for 2D hardware.



v2.14 release candidate:


1. Minor changes to HDMI code, primarily for 2D hardware.


2. S-Video adjustments weren't working in video processing menu - fixed.


----------



## chiliman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/22004742
> 
> 
> IT COULD SAY ----
> 
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.14d
> 
> 
> 1. HDCP change which may improve cable box operation.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixes for displayed info - alignment, mode selection, Dolby Volume status.
> 
> 
> If using Custom Resolution Manager, be sure it's v1.1.0, not the previous version.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.14b
> 
> 
> 1. Analog input video adjustments in video processing menu stopped working in an earlier beta - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. Custom output resolution sometimes resulted in double screen when switching from interlaced output configuration - fixed.
> 
> 
> v2.14a
> 
> 
> 1. More HDMI changes to address some issues, particularly with cable boxes, more so for 2D hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.14 release candidate:
> 
> 
> 1. Minor changes to HDMI code, primarily for 2D hardware.
> 
> 
> 2. S-Video adjustments weren't working in video processing menu - fixed.




Thanks!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> IT COULD SAY ----
> 
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.14d
> 
> 
> 1. HDCP change which may improve cable box operation.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixes for displayed info - alignment, mode selection, Dolby Volume status.
> 
> 
> If using Custom Resolution Manager, be sure it's v1.1.0, not the previous version.
> 
> 
> v2.14b
> 
> 
> 1. Analog input video adjustments in video processing menu stopped working in an earlier beta - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. Custom output resolution sometimes resulted in double screen when switching from interlaced output configuration - fixed.
> 
> 
> v2.14a
> 
> 
> 1. More HDMI changes to address some issues, particularly with cable boxes, more so for 2D hardware.
> 
> 
> v2.14 release candidate:
> 
> 
> 1. Minor changes to HDMI code, primarily for 2D hardware.
> 
> 
> 2. S-Video adjustments weren't working in video processing menu - fixed.



Thanks Hank, I don't have access to my laptop at the moment so I couldn't post it.

John


----------



## SimonNo10

Package left London on the 9th (it's the 10th here) ETA is supposed to be tomorrow via express TNT. Fingers crossed I get it for the weekend.


Finding it hard not having the HT up and running but my 2 dogs are enjoying the peace and quiet







.


----------



## p.las

Any news about the DTS hd 7.1 issue? I am thinking off Sound steert to FL/FR from the surround


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any news about the DTS hd 7.1 issue? I am thinking off Sound steert to FL/FR from the surround



Not fixed yet. Use LPCM for DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks.

--Bob


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/21991710
> 
> 
> A little help if possible folks. Ive searched the thread without definitive answers. I'm working to get my iPad assigned to an input on my avm 50 via the Apple hdmi adapter. It is going to a Marantz 11s2. I am unable to get the Anthem to either recognize the signal &/or scale it out via the hdmi out. If I hook the iPad directly to the projector it works fine. Anyone currently doing this and have some input? I've tried nearly every source and output setting combination I think I can. Is this an Apple issue (Steve Jobs controlling my life from the grave) or an Anthem issue?
> 
> 
> All inout is always appreciated.
> 
> 
> Randy



Did you consider connecting an Apple TV (3rd generation) to the AVM 50? The Apple TV supports playing content on iPad and iPhones (via AirPlay) and also content on Macs/PCs running iTunes. BTW, the 3rd generation Apple TV supports 1080p content (unlike the 2nd generation Apple TV, which only supports 720p).


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/22005046
> 
> 
> Package left London on the 9th (it's the 10th here) ETA is supposed to be tomorrow via express TNT. Fingers crossed I get it for the weekend.
> 
> 
> Finding it hard not having the HT up and running but my 2 dogs are enjoying the peace and quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



I finally managed to program the D2v today after the AVRIsp programmer arrived late afternoon at my door. The process really was very quick indeed!!! The longest part of it(for me) was the removal of the D2v's cover. Man, this thing has screws, screws and more screws







!


MB Programming took less than 2 minutes. A few unexpected glitces in the programming menu but just hit ok and then RESET at the top right of the menu and all will be ok







.


I then loaded version 2.14d(May 5) with no problems. I reloaded my settings and they seemed intact. I reloaded my ARC solution just in case







.


I retired my stereo NAD 1155 pre-amp from my college days more than 25 years ago. Its nice to have my HT system functional again after 7 days of listening to 5.1 audio in stereo. I even refused to watch some of my favorite recorded programs until i got my HT working fine. Finally, all is good







!


I will keep the programmer closeby in case this happens again







!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I finally managed to program the D2v today after the AVRIsp programmer arrived late afternoon at my door. The process really was very quick indeed!!! The longest part of it(for me) was the removal of the D2v's cover. Man, this thing has screws, screws and more screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> MB Programming took less than 2 minutes. A few unexpected glitces in the programming menu but just hit ok and then RESET at the top right of the menu and all will be ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> I then loaded version 2.14d(May 5) with no problems. I reloaded my settings and they seemed intact. I reloaded my ARC solution just in case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> I retired my stereo NAD 1155 pre-amp from my college days more than 25 years ago. Its nice to have my HT system functional again after 7 days of listening to 5.1 audio in stereo. I even refused to watch some of my favorite recorded programs until i got my HT working fine. Finally, all is good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> I will keep the programmer closeby in case this happens again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !



You're right TONS of screws. Took it off once and hope I don't have to again







Glad it's up and running.

John


----------



## SimonNo10

God that's great news and a relief to know the programmer fixes it. Now fingers crossed I get mine delivered to my work before the weekend.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22008903
> 
> 
> You're right TONS of screws. Took it off once and hope I don't have to again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad it's up and running.
> 
> John



I had to remove deal with these screws twice as i had flipped the cover 180 degrees. I had found myself with 4 extra screws after the first go around







.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/22008948
> 
> 
> God that's great news and a relief to know the programmer fixes it. Now fingers crossed I get mine delivered to my work before the weekend.



Its a breeze... Just don't get confused with the 10-pin to 6-pin connector board. Just don't use it and use the 10-pin cable. The connection path should be:


USB(laptop) cable --> AVRIsp --> 10-pin wire connector to the D2v motherboard.


----------



## SimonNo10

Awesome mate. Well the TNT Express tracking says mine has arrived in Melbourne and is in transit to my work so looks like it's going to arrive today. Thanks for the pics appreciate it.


Also you mentioned Software glitches, what did you mean by that? I just want to get this right and cover all the bases. Nick sent me a pic of the motherboard (my request) showing the connector which is very helpful.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Not fixed yet. Use LPCM for DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks.
> 
> --Bob



Unless you have a player like the Oppo 83 with buggy decoder chipset, then better to just use bitstream and "suffer" with soundstage shifted forward slightly.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you have a player like the Oppo 83 with buggy decoder chipset, then better to just use bitstream and "suffer" with soundstage shifted forward slightly.



I just watched Underworld Awakening, a DTSMA 7.1 track using my Oppo 83 using PCM and the surround effects were excellent. So that's what I'll use until they fix it.

John


----------



## rovingtravler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/22008864
> 
> 
> I finally managed to program the D2v today after the AVRIsp programmer arrived late afternoon at my door. The process really was very quick indeed!!! The longest part of it(for me) was the removal of the D2v's cover. Man, this thing has screws, screws and more screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> MB Programming took less than 2 minutes. A few unexpected glitces in the programming menu but just hit ok and then RESET at the top right of the menu and all will be ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> I then loaded version 2.14d(May 5) with no problems. I reloaded my settings and they seemed intact. I reloaded my ARC solution just in case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> I retired my stereo NAD 1155 pre-amp from my college days more than 25 years ago. Its nice to have my HT system functional again after 7 days of listening to 5.1 audio in stereo. I even refused to watch some of my favorite recorded programs until i got my HT working fine. Finally, all is good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> I will keep the programmer closeby in case this happens again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !



That is great! Congrats.


I also want to thank Nick for his and Anthem's willingness to help customers in a very non tradational way. It is amazing that they let you reprogram your unit, send you the code, and the like.


That is beyond good customer service!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> That is great! Congrats.
> 
> 
> I also want to thank Nick for his and Anthem's willingness to help customers in a very non tradational way. It is amazing that they let you reprogram your unit, send you the code, and the like.
> 
> 
> That is beyond good customer service!



Absolutely!

John


----------



## SimonNo10

Yes I'm very happy Nick went above and beyond to help us repair our units without the need to ship them off.


Now all we need from him and Anthem Tech support is to develop a system where a user can restore or roll back to previous firmware when installing new firmware crashes or fails during the process







. Once this is done I believe all will be covered.


Again thanks Nick for your assistance and effort.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *simonno10* /forum/post/22009436
> 
> 
> yes i'm very happy nick went above and beyond to help us repair our units without the need to ship them off.
> 
> 
> Now all we need from him and anthem tech support is to develop a system where a user can restore or roll back to previous firmware when installing new firmware crashes or fails during the process
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Once this is done i believe all will be covered.
> 
> 
> Again thanks nick for your assistance and effort.



^^^ +1







!


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/22009308
> 
> 
> Unless you have a player like the Oppo 83 with buggy decoder chipset, then better to just use bitstream and "suffer" with soundstage shifted forward slightly.



Infact i have a oppo 83 . Wasent familier that this Unit have any bugs. What is the problem?


----------



## SimonNo10

It's arrived







. Will do it tonight after I finish work at 8pm.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Infact i have a oppo 83 . Wasent familier that this Unit have any bugs. What is the problem?



The DTS-HD MA 7.1 decoding in the 83 can produce distortion in high dynamics portions of a few tracks out there. Not all such tracks will trigger this. Examples are the beginning of Toy Story 3. The beginning of Jurassic Park. And chapter 21 in War Horse. The workaround is to use Bitstream output or to turn on Secondary Audio which causes the Core DTS 5.1 compatibility track to be used instead.


For Toy Story 3, you can also select its alternate DTS-HD MA 5.1 track, and thus avoid the problem.


The 93 and 95 don't have this problem as they use newer decoder hardware.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/22009944
> 
> 
> It's arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Will do it tonight after I finish work at 8pm.



Good for you







... Just make sure you completely turn off the D2v and unplug it from wall power for a few minutes after programming the MB and uploading the latest firmware. Else, the unit will behave odd and weird.


- David


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/22010060
> 
> 
> Good for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Just make sure you completely turn off the D2v and unplug it from wall power for a few minutes after programming the MB and uploading the latest firmware. Else, the unit will behave odd and weird.
> 
> 
> - David



Thanks for the tip mate. I hope it goes as well as yours did.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22009953
> 
> 
> The DTS-HD MA 7.1 decoding in the 83 can produce distortion in high dynamics portions of a few tracks out there. Not all such tracks will trigger this. Examples are the beginning of Toy Story 3. The beginning of Jurassic Park. And chapter 21 in War Horse. The workaround is to use Bitstream output or to turn on Secondary Audio which causes the Core DTS 5.1 compatibility track to be used instead.
> 
> 
> For Toy Story 3, you can also select its alternate DTS-HD MA 5.1 track, and thus avoid the problem.
> 
> 
> The 93 and 95 don't have this problem as they use newer decoder hardware.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob .

Another question - in extremes when i play loud, the treblle Can in some cases become a little to bright. Not harsh ore compressed...... I have a'lot off headroom, in a heavely treaded room . Can i use the tone control? Ore is it generel a bad idea? I don't now what area treble control is adjusting. I want to now what happens, before i turn the not. I have tryed thx re-EQ . But that make the Sound boxy. My roomgain is 2.0

When i Said loud - transformers III is running in -5db on the Master volume.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Just try it and see. It is personal preference.


Also check your ARC set up. In particular, check mic height, speaker pointing, particularly vertical pointing, and whether you have Max EQ Frequency set too high and are thus trying to correct poor quality treble data from the mic.


Of course you may just be overdriving your tweeters.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Played "Grumpy Old Men" on my Oppo 93 this evening and got no audio from bitstream output to my D2v. Changed to LPCM output and got the sound.


Why is it that my D2v will not read the DTS-HD 2.0 track that Oppo does fine? The same disc also contain the sequel "Grumpier Old Men" with DTS-HD 5.1 on the same side and which played fine on the D2v.


Any ideas, please? Thanks.


Feeling just as grumpy now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Played "Grumpy Old Men" on my Oppo 93 this evening and got no audio from bitstream output to my D2v. Changed to LPCM output and got the sound.
> 
> 
> Why is it that my D2v will not read the DTS-HD 2.0 track that Oppo does fine? The same disc also contain the sequel "Grumpier Old Men" with DTS-HD 5.1 on the same side and which played fine on the D2v.
> 
> 
> Any ideas, please? Thanks.
> 
> 
> Feeling just as grumpy now.



No idea. 2.0 plays fine here.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Just reporting in to say my D2v is...ALIVE. All went very smoothly and loaded 2.14d without issues.


Big thank you to Nick and others for assisting with this problem. Glad to have my system back for the weekend.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22010193
> 
> 
> No idea. 2.0 plays fine here.
> 
> --Bob



Must be a faulty disc. Wonder if Oppo is outputting the lossy track in LPCM instead. Or perhaps my D2v doen't like grumpy old men. "Indian Summer" and Mystic Pizza", both DTS-HD 2.0 too, played fine.


Anyway, Amazon is rushing a replacement copy to me.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/22010357
> 
> 
> Just reporting in to say my D2v is...ALIVE. All went very smoothly and loaded 2.14d without issues.
> 
> 
> Big thank you to Nick and others for assisting with this problem. Glad to have my system back for the weekend.



Congrats indeed Simon ... Now to some good music and movie sessions







!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *niualaals94* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, I just ordered my ARC. My guy at Sounds Deluxe says its just amazing!
> 
> 
> I am looking forward to it.



Which processor do you have?

John


----------



## AVfile

I thought there were no more kits.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought there were no more kits.



Maybe he meant a processor with ARC, not just a kit. Hard to tell.

John


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/22010357
> 
> 
> Just reporting in to say my D2v is...ALIVE.



My thanks go to co-workers who dropped whatever they were doing last Friday night to try and resolve this as quickly as possible, and especially to Simon and dmusoke for having made the best of the situation.


----------



## dbox1080p




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/22013721
> 
> 
> I thought there were no more kits.



This is what I thought and was told but a trip down to my local dealer and a couple of phone calls made by him got me a new ARC board installed on my avm40 4 months ago.


I have a question for Anthem or some guys here. I am a big fan of anthem so I brought home an Anthem mrx300 today and it got me thinking. Will I run into problems installing the MRX300 ARC program on the 1 laptop I have. I just got my avm40 ARC sorted out and I dont want to mess this up by installing another disk for the MRX300


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/22013823
> 
> 
> My thanks go to co-workers who dropped whatever they were doing last Friday night to try and resolve this as quickly as possible, and especially to Simon and dmusoke for having made the best of the situation.



Yeah, top marks to Nick and Anthem for their quick response and going the extra miles to help out Simon and dmusoke, well done










Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10

I hope someone can answer this for me. I know Macca your listening to all your movies with the player doing the decoding (set to lpcm). Now I put Thor on tonight Bluray DTS MA 7.1 and set my Oppo 95 to Lpcm and listened to when Odin slams his staff on the floor during Thors celebration and had the volume at -18 which is normally loud enough for me, and the impact was average bass was weak. Switching the player to Bitstream and the huge soundstage comes back in spades at the same volume and bass is amazing and deep. Why is there such a big difference in volume between Lpcm and Bistream and sound quality? I don't understand what is going on and why the big difference. It's very obvious and I've changed nothing but the processing ( Switching from Bitstream to Lpcm).


Anyone else get this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ On the 95, check that you have the latest firmware (0413). Check that you have Dynamic Range Compression OFF.


ETA: You are using HDMI for audio in both cases correct?

--Bob


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p* /forum/post/22013861
> 
> 
> This is what I thought and was told but a trip down to my local dealer and a couple of phone calls made by him got me a new ARC board installed on my avm40 4 months ago.
> 
> 
> I have a question for Anthem or some guys here. I am a big fan of anthem so I brought home an Anthem mrx300 today and it got me thinking. Will I run into problems installing the MRX300 ARC program on the 1 laptop I have. I just got my avm40 ARC sorted out and I dont want to mess this up by installing another disk for the MRX300



The program is the same so no need to reinstall. I assume you could even use the same mic and calibration files. You just need to keep the teh solutions files named properly to separate them.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22014239
> 
> 
> ^ On the 95, check that you have the latest firmware (0413). Check that you have Dynamic Range Compression OFF.
> 
> 
> ETA: You are using HDMI for audio in both cases correct?
> 
> --Bob



Yes I have the latest firmware for the 95 and DRC is always turned off. I'm using HDMI across the board.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Check what the D2v says it is receiving for audio input when using LPCM (Press Select multiple times).


Check what Audio Mode is in effect in the D2v when using LPCM (press Mode).


Check that Dolby Volume is OFF and Dynamics are "Normal" in the D2v. Press "0" two times to see both.


Clear any "temporary" volume trims that might have been left set by accident. In Setup:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue via the Front Panel display.

3) Reload Saved User Settings


The "temporary" settings are not saved, so this resets all of them.


If none of the above cures the problem, send OPPO the disc details (including the bar code number from the packaging), and a description of what's happening.


There was no such problem reported by OPPO testers against Thor when it first released, but of course there may be something unusual in the version you got, or a new bug may have been introduced. If it's a disc version issue, OPPO may already have reports against it.


Whenever there is odd behavior from the OPPO, one good thing to try is a reset. It's easy enough to do while waiting to hear back from them:


1) Remove any disc. Jot down your personal settings.


2) In Setup, Erase Persistent Storage, then Reset Factory Defaults. When the Easy Setup Wizard finishes, power down the player.


3) Pull the power plug for about 10 seconds. Do not skip this step..


4) Power up and re-enter your personal settings.


5) Power down once more. Settings are saved during the power down cycle.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks for the reply Bob. I will test as you have suggested and report back. It's 11.45pm now so it's a bit late now so will test tomorrow.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Also, how are you cabled up. OPPO HDMI 1 to the D2v with OPPO HDMI 2 unused, or are you using dual cabling from the OPPO?

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There was no such problem reported by OPPO testers against Thor when it first released, but of course there may be something unusual in the version you got, or a new bug may have been introduced. If it's a disc version issue, OPPO may already have reports against it.



They should in fact. I recall similar reports right here in this thread at the time Thor was released. I don't think there was any explanation and people just agreed to disagree and stuck with what worked for them.


By the way I finally watched Thor last night also and it sounded as dynamic as anything! Of course I was using the DTS bitstream and didn't bother with the PCM method.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I used LPCM when I tested Thor (back when it came out), and spotted no problem with dynamics.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

It was Simon! (8 months ago)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/20992981
> 
> 
> Hi guys. Thought I would post my thoughts after watching Thor on Bluray (DTS-HD MA 7.1). Now after setting my Oppo BDP-95 to LPCM (which I've had set for awhile now since Macca discovered the issues), I watched this movie tonight and noticed one thing...the sound was very average. Bass was weak and the dialogue was very low and overall sound stage was lacking. Since changing the setting in the Oppo to LPCM I haven't watched a BD with 7.1 until last week with Rambo and now Thor. After watching about 20mins of this movie I decided to try with the Bitstream setting on the Oppo and make the adjustments to the trims on the D2v while the movie was playing. So FL/FR set to +3 and Centre to -3. Holy crap what a difference the sound track came alive and the bass was insane. When I had the Oppo set to LPCM I was watching the movie at -16 (Wanting to turn it up allot more) on the D2v but with Bistream I watched the movie at -19 but boy was it loud and clear.
> 
> 
> I read the review here that said that this BD was a powerful track and it is and will be a new reference for bass heads that's for sure:
> 
> http://bluray.highdefdigest.com/4368/thor.html
> 
> 
> Now from my reading setting the Oppo to LPCM for DTS-HD MA and for everything should solve the speaker trim levels when playing back 7.1 for both DTS-HD MA and True HD 7.1, but for some reason with the Thor movie the setting for LPCM just didn't sound right and turning it up didn't solve the problem. Changing to Bitstream and making the above adjustments was a whole new experience and reflected what the reviewer said.
> 
> 
> Just sharing my thoughts and experience here guys and if anyone else has this movie please test it with both settings on the D2v and report back. In case someone asks the trims were all "0" on the Anthem when I had LPCM set in the Oppo.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ My personal review notes on "Thor", Blu-ray, are from September 15. I used HDMI 1 on the OPPO 93 with LPCM audio.


The notes start off: "A very loud, LFE-fest, with lots of sparkly, cheesy visuals." Later on I called it, "An LFE demo track."


Doesn't sound like dynamics problems to me!










Now, I was using a 93 and not a 95. But the decoding is the same in the two players.


I suspect there's something else going on here than simple decoding problems.


NOTE: I was playing the 2D version, and it was a "rental special", not a retail copy.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

I just installed 2.14d via serial connection without issue











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/22004742
> 
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v2.14d
> 
> 
> 1. HDCP change which may improve cable box operation.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixes for displayed info - alignment, mode selection, Dolby Volume status.



2 - Incorrect "LATE NIGHT" indication when the MODE button is pressed while MODE PRESET = LAST USED is fixed. However the LAST USED setting is not working as I would expect. It doesn't remember the mode after a reboot so the mode always reverts to NONE. The mode is remembered during operation regardless of the MODE PRESET setting. In other words there is no use for the LAST USED setting since it is working the same as the NONE setting.










It appears as if the fix for "LATE NIGHT" indication in this scenario was to overwrite it with "NONE" and the extra state is still present, since an extra button press is still required to get out of this state. It is unknown to me if LATE NIGHT dynamics are being applied in this state, therefore I would still avoid the LAST USED setting.


DTS-ES 6.1 Discrete and DTS-HDMA 6.1 now consistently do not allow application of PLIIx (fixed). The mode is correctly indicated as "NONE" but also confusingly as "7.1 INPUT".



> Quote:
> v2.14b
> 
> 
> 1. Analog input video adjustments in video processing menu stopped working in an earlier beta - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. Custom output resolution sometimes resulted in double screen when switching from interlaced output configuration - fixed.



2 - not fixed for my displays


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Make sure you are using the new version of Custom Resolution Manager.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

^ I sure did, and I'm not trying this again until at least one other person says they've tried it and it worked.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm not sure there's ANYONE left posting here who's using that stuff now. It was pretty commonly in use with older, non-1080p displays, but not so much today.









--Bob


----------



## AVfile

It's not super high priority for me either, as I can avoid the interlaced formats most of the time, but I didn't think it would be this hard to fix.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/22014949
> 
> 
> However the LAST USED setting is not working as I would expect. It doesn't remember the mode after a reboot so the mode always reverts to NONE.



Been like that since AVM 2 (last sentence in section 4.8.10). For full-time dynamic range reduction try Dolby Volume starting with Leveler set on 4. Dolby Digital Dynamics only acts on multichannel sources containing scaling flags whereas Dolby Volume acts on any input format.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/22015149
> 
> 
> Been like that since AVM 2



Thanks Nick. Wow, I guess Last Used is something that never got implemented because it currently does nothing different than the NONE setting. I am surprised though, that nobody else has questioned it (or perhaps they have) after all these years.


You should check out the Lexicon user manuals. They have some really cool logic for "Last Used" and volume muting/unmuting functions. I hate getting blasted when the volume is muted and I try to reduce the volume! I can explain more if it's not obvious from the manuals and you are interested. I think all your products could benefit from it, and it should hopefully be just a minor tweak.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/22015149
> 
> 
> (last sentence in section 4.8.10). For full-time dynamic range reduction try Dolby Volume starting with Leveler set on 4. Dolby Digital Dynamics only acts on multichannel sources containing scaling flags whereas Dolby Volume acts on any input format.



To clarify I am talking about Last Used, not Late Night.


----------



## chiliman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/21991710
> 
> 
> A little help if possible folks. Ive searched the thread without definitive answers. I'm working to get my iPad assigned to an input on my avm 50 via the Apple hdmi adapter. It is going to a Marantz 11s2. I am unable to get the Anthem to either recognize the signal &/or scale it out via the hdmi out. If I hook the iPad directly to the projector it works fine. Anyone currently doing this and have some input? I've tried nearly every source and output setting combination I think I can. Is this an Apple issue (Steve Jobs controlling my life from the grave) or an Anthem issue?
> 
> 
> All inout is always appreciated.
> 
> 
> Randy




SO....my issue is a dead HDMI input. Input 4 is dead. Wasn't using it previously so didn't know. UGH. I have a 50v I purchased used on Audiogon in transit to replace this 50. The whole process of convincing myself to spend the money was based on what I would recoup from the sale of this 50. This is going to kill the value a lot.


I'll send an email to tech support to get an idea if it's worth fixing before selling.


Randy


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Ouch! If 3 works but 4 doesn't, that sounds like a faulty socket. Perhaps a bent pin. 3 and 4 share the same electronics.


It's a long shot, but it wouldn't hurt to do a firmware reinstall to see if reprogramming the HDMI logic fixes the issue.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22015898
> 
> 
> ^ Ouch! If 3 works but 4 doesn't, that sounds like a faulty socket. Perhaps a bent pin. 3 and 4 share the same electronics.
> 
> 
> It's a long shot, but it wouldn't hurt to do a firmware reinstall to see if reprogramming the HDMI logic fixes the issue.
> 
> --Bob



Providing you tried a different HDMI cable made by a different manufacturer.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> It was Simon! (8 months ago



Ah yes I remember that post now. Suggests to me it's the disc then but will try as you have suggested Bob and report back. I have Real Steel which is DTS-HD MA 7.1 so will try that in Lpcm and compare with Bitstream. Thor Blu-ray was imported from the states not locally (Australia) and I'm only using HDMI 1 not 2.


----------



## chiliman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22015898
> 
> 
> ^ Ouch! If 3 works but 4 doesn't, that sounds like a faulty socket. Perhaps a bent pin. 3 and 4 share the same electronics.
> 
> 
> It's a long shot, but it wouldn't hurt to do a firmware reinstall to see if reprogramming the HDMI logic fixes the issue.
> 
> --Bob



Yep. 3 works. 4 doesn't. I cannot see evidence of a bent pin or any other visual difference between 4 and the other inputs. I'll look at the firmware reinstall.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/22015982
> 
> 
> Providing you tried a different HDMI cable made by a different manufacturer.



Took my input cable from hdmi 1 into input 4 resulting in no signal. Then put my 4 into 1 and immediately locked in the signal I couldn't get on 1.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/22016150
> 
> 
> Yep. 3 works. 4 doesn't. I cannot see evidence of a bent pin or any other visual difference between 4 and the other inputs. I'll look at the firmware reinstall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took my input cable from hdmi 1 into input 4 resulting in no signal. Then put my 4 into 1 and immediately locked in the signal I couldn't get on 1.



Should you not have to make a change in the source setup to Scaler Input 4 to get a video signal ?


----------



## chiliman

^^^^^^

Was doing that. No source receives signal from hdmi input 4, regardless of source device. All sources receive signal from inputs 1-3.


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok Bob I did as you suggested and still the same result. I checked Dynamic Range was Normal for both Lpcm and Bitstream, pressing Mode showed the same result for both.


It must be my disc then if yours is fine using Lpcm. Will test Real Steel and see if I get similar results.


----------



## BladeRnR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/22009436
> 
> 
> Yes I'm very happy Nick went above and beyond to help us repair our units without the need to ship them off.
> 
> 
> Now all we need from him and Anthem Tech support is to develop a system where a user can restore or roll back to previous firmware when installing new firmware crashes or fails during the process
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Once this is done I believe all will be covered.
> 
> 
> Again thanks Nick for your assistance and effort.



Agreed an impressive show of official support. My initial anger was more about my Brother having had numerous issues with his unit and then this final disappointment.


All is well that ends well.


Good job Anthem Support.


Blade


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/22016569
> 
> 
> Ok Bob I did as you suggested and still the same result. I checked Dynamic Range was Normal for both Lpcm and Bitstream, pressing Mode showed the same result for both.
> 
> 
> It must be my disc then if yours is fine using Lpcm. Will test Real Steel and see if I get similar results.



It can't be JUST the disc, as the same Bitstream used for decoding in the OPPO is what gets sent to the D2v.


However, it could be a difference in authoring between the disc I used (2D and a "rental special") and the disc you used which is triggering a decoding bug in the OPPO. The studios make these discs in multiple versions, and it is rather common for odd stuff to show up in one version but not another. Nevertheless, if the D2v decodes it without problem, then the OPPO should be able to as well.


At this point, you should get the disc details to OPPO, including 2D vs. 3D and the bar code number from the packaging, along with the details of what you've found and what you've checked (e.g., current firmware in the OPPO and Dynamic Range Compression OFF). Be sure to include how you are connected (1 or 2 HDMI outputs in use from OPPO, and what they are wired to).


NOTE: If you are using both HDMI outputs from the OPPO, then you must use HDMI 2 to carry the audio to the D2v. HDMI 1 will only have a stereo down-mix for audio when HDMI 2 is also in use. HDMI 1 is the connector towards the middle of the back panel. HDMI 2 is the connector on the far right side of the back panel as you face the front of the player.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

No worries Bob. As mentioned I'm not using HDMI 2 only HDMI1, but I will forward my details with disc details to Oppo and see what they say. Also I've only got the 2D version not the 3D.


*Update* Email has been sent to Oppo tech support so will wait their reply.


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I don't still have that rental copy of "Thor", of course. But I've put in a request to the other OPPO Beta testers in case one of them has the disc handy and can check out LPCM vs. Bitstream.


Do you happen to have the time code of that scene you mentioned? I believe it was Odin banging his staff or some such?

--Bob


----------



## Wookii

Forgive me if this has already been answered elsewhere on this thread, but is there a release date for the 3D upgrade in the UK, for the D2v?


Also does anyone know if, or when, the D2v will support the new front height and width channels (via DTS Neo:X, Dolby Pro Logic IIz etc)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Release date for the 3D upgrade isn't even nailed down in the US yet.










It's unlikely the D2v will have height speaker support added as there are no outputs for the extra speakers. I.e., it would involve a pretty significant hardware change. If it is going to happen at all, it would be more likely to happen in a new model, and there are no hints yet as to when that might happen.

--Bob


----------



## Wookii

Could it not use the second centre output and second sub output, and use those as either the front height, or front width - I appreciate there aren't enough to achieve both at the same time without sacrificing the rears in a 7.1 set-up. That said I guess there are enough outputs for someone with 5.1 to have front height and width channels at the same time?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sure, but I'd doubt a "partial" solution like that would have much market value. Anyway, there's no suggestion this is in the works for the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Bob,

I searched this forum for Oppo settings for an Oppo 83.

I just sold my D2 and got a D2v. I've read your posts about calibrating the display device 1st (projector), which I've done. Now I'd like to know what settings to use for the 83 as well as a sd dvd player (Oppo 983) so that the D2v does the audio/video processing. The 983 doesn't have 480i so what else could I use?

I also have a Samsung tv tuner. Do I set this to 480i also?

I'll set the Anthem when I set the dvd players menu's. If you can point me to a previous post (if one exists) I'd appreciate it.


Thanks,

Ken


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/22017674
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I searched this forum for Oppo settings for an Oppo 83.
> 
> I just sold my D2 and got a D2v. I've read your posts about calibrating the display device 1st (projector), which I've done. Now I'd like to know what settings to use for the 83 as well as a sd dvd player (Oppo 983) so that the D2v does the audio/video processing. The 983 doesn't have 480i so what else could I use?
> 
> I also have a Samsung tv tuner. Do I set this to 480i also?
> 
> I'll set the Anthem when I set the dvd players menu's. If you can point me to a previous post (if one exists) I'd appreciate it.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



Ken,


Obviously I'm not Bob, But I have a question about your question.
*If you are using an Oppo 83 why would you need the 983?*

The 83 does everything the 983 does and more. To me using both seems redundant. Sell the 983 and buy some Blurays with the profit.










The 83 can be set to 'source direct' which will send s-dvd's at 480i and bluray at 1080p.

Bob used to suggest setting the Oppo83 to 1080p (rather than 'source direct')and letting the 83 do the heavy lifting with video conversion. That was for the D2; I'm not sure if he changed his mind with the D2v, but the video chip in the 83 was the equal of the gennum VXP chip in the D2.

By setting it to 1080p it will also allow you to enjoy the full impact of DVD-A's and SACD's. If I remember correctly, 'source direct' doesn't allow the full bandwith to be sent from the 83. I may be confusing this with the oppo 980 I used to own before I got my oppo83 (I now use the 93), but I seem to remember there being problems with DVD-A's and SACD's if the oppo83 was set to source direct.


If your projector can accept 1080p/24, the 83 can be set to '24p- auto'. This is probably the only setting in the 83 that should be set to auto. If your projector can't handle 24p, then set that to 'off'.


If you have calibrated the projector then all of the 'picture adjustment' settings in the oppo should remain at default of '0'. Any minor tweaks can be made in the D2v video setup if needed to suit your taste and adjust for different sources.


Color space is more of a trial and error process, but should be set to a specific setting, not auto. If you plan to use the D2v for scaling, then set the oppo to 4:2:2--I believe this will send the purest, unaltered signal to the D2v. What you set the D2v to send to your projector will be trial and error. Others with your make and model of projector may be able to help you which setting between RGB, 4:2:2 or 4:4:4, is best.


Tom


----------



## Kensmith48

Tom

When I had the D2 the switching between the 983 and the 83 took quite awhile so I just used the 2 players and set them up as dvd1 & dvd2. Shortened the time and less syncing by the D2.

With the D2v I will try the 83 with both settings and see how it switches.

I have a JVC RS20 proj. which does 1080p/24. I'm using 4:4:4 in the 1. Video config., but on the Video adj. screen of the D2v under "info" it says 1080p RGB?


Ken


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tom
> 
> When I had the D2 the switching between the 983 and the 83 took quite awhile so I just used the 2 players and set them up as dvd1 & dvd2. Shortened the time and less syncing by the D2.
> 
> With the D2v I will try the 83 with both settings and see how it switches.
> 
> I have a JVC RS20 proj. which does 1080p/24. I'm using 4:4:4 in the 1. Video config., but on the Video adj. screen of the D2v under "info" it says 1080p RGB?
> 
> 
> Ken



My RS 50 only works with RGB in the 83, D2v and pj. Otherwise I get magenta hue over everything.

John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Do you happen to have the time code of that scene you mentioned? I believe it was Odin banging his staff or some such?



Sorry Bob only just read your post. I'm at work now so can't answer your question completely but yes it's when Odin slams his staff down during the ceremony. The issue is not scene specific it's just more obvious with a large bass bit so I just picked one, otherwise the sound difference is across the board.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/22018096
> 
> 
> Tom
> 
> When I had the D2 the switching between the 983 and the 83 took quite awhile so I just used the 2 players and set them up as dvd1 & dvd2. Shortened the time and less syncing by the D2.
> 
> With the D2v I will try the 83 with both settings and see how it switches.
> I have a JVC RS20 proj. which does 1080p/24. I'm using 4:4:4 in the 1. Video config., but on the Video adj. screen of the D2v under "info" it says 1080p RGB?
> 
> 
> Ken



I'm not sure I understand.

Are you saying that you are using Video config 1 for the oppo83 source, and video conf 1 is set to send 4:4:4, but the video adjustment screen (the screen that pops up when you press/hold #7) says you are sending out RGB??


The video info screen(#7) shows what 'color space' the D2v is receiving from the source, but not what it is sending out. At least thats how it looks on the D2.

The D2v may show both.

The 1-4 video configuration setups will allow you to choose what color space is sent out from the D2v to your display.


It may be that the oppo is sending out RGB, and that is what the video info screen is showing. If video configuration 1 is set to send out 4:4:4, then that is what it will send out.

If video config 1 is set to 'auto' it will check with the display and may be choosing to send out RGB.


If your projector is like jayray's then you should set the video config 1 to output RGB, not 'auto'. It should shorten the handshake when switching to that source.


Tom


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a JVC RS20 proj. which does 1080p/24.



Hi,

Another setting I can recommend for you is DVD 24p in the Oppo BDP-83 for film-based DVDs. You will need to explicitly set output to 1080p24 (not Source Direct) for this item to be available.


This is something the D2v won't do on its own (produce 24p from 480i) but it will happily pass 1080p24 from the player to your PJ as if you are watching a blu-ray.


Source Direct is only recommended for video processors that can do this "inverse telecine" process. Fortunately the BDP-83 does this internally (maybe not as well as an external VP like a Lumagen, but I've yet to discover the downside).


This will also render the other DVD player in your system redundant.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/22017674
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I searched this forum for Oppo settings for an Oppo 83.
> 
> I just sold my D2 and got a D2v. I've read your posts about calibrating the display device 1st (projector), which I've done. Now I'd like to know what settings to use for the 83 as well as a sd dvd player (Oppo 983) so that the D2v does the audio/video processing. The 983 doesn't have 480i so what else could I use?
> 
> I also have a Samsung tv tuner. Do I set this to 480i also?
> 
> I'll set the Anthem when I set the dvd players menu's. If you can point me to a previous post (if one exists) I'd appreciate it.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken



For the 83:


1) I recommend you use explicit 1080p output all the time. For SD-DVDs in particular, the 83 is a remarkable player for de-interlacing and upscaling.


2) Leave 1080p/24 set to AUTO whether or not your display handles /24 input. The Anthem will convert that to /60 output for your display (a trivial process).


3) Assuming 1080p output, use 16:9 Wide/Auto in the 83, and use "Anamorphic" scaling in the Anthem for that input (Video Source Adjust > Scaling while the OPPO input is selected). This will give you the best results for 4:3 SD-DVDs.


4) The choice of Color Space and Deep Color settings in the OPPO has no pat answer. It depends how your Display interacts with the Anthem. In the setup for my Display for example, it works better if I turn on Dithering in the OPPO. I use YCbCr 4:4:4 and Deep Color OFF (Dithered). See my post on "Ratatouille", Blu-ray, in the BDP-93 sticky thread in the Blu-ray players forum for one way to check which combo of Color Space and Deep Color choices works best through the Anthem for YOUR display. NOTE: Do *NOT* use RGB PC Level in the OPPO for HDMI to the Anthem.


5) Use TV System Multi. The Anthem will convert Pal (/50) to /60 for output to your Display.


6) Very Important: In the 83, set Secondary Audio OFF, regardless of whether you are using HDMI LPCM or HDMI Bitstream output, unless you intend to play a disc feature that requires Secondary Audio (e.g., a Picture in Picture Commentary track that has its audio implemented as Secondary Audio). With Secondary Audio ON in the 83 the player will not decode a TrueHD or DTS-HD MA track you have selected. You'll get the lossy, compatibility track instead. (NOTE: The 93 and 95 handle this differently.)


7) I use HDMI Audio LPCM most of the time.


8) Set HDMI CEC OFF


9) In the 83, I recommend you set BD-Live OFF unless you want to use a BD-Live feature on some disc.


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/22018096
> 
> 
> Tom
> 
> When I had the D2 the switching between the 983 and the 83 took quite awhile so I just used the 2 players and set them up as dvd1 & dvd2. Shortened the time and less syncing by the D2.
> 
> With the D2v I will try the 83 with both settings and see how it switches.
> 
> I have a JVC RS20 proj. which does 1080p/24. I'm using 4:4:4 in the 1. Video config., but on the Video adj. screen of the D2v under "info" it says 1080p RGB?
> 
> 
> Ken



Video Source Adjust > Info reports the data format of the Video INPUT.


What you have set in Setup > Video Output Configuration is the data format of the Video OUTPUT.


They need not be the same.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

On the "info" it said RGB, but I wasn't playing a disc. Once I put a blu ray in it said 4:4:4. I played 3 movies and they all said 4:4:4. In the video adjust both 4:4:4 and RGB were checked (default). Should I take the check mark off the RGB?

Thanks for the help.

Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/22019993
> 
> 
> On the "info" it said RGB, but I wasn't playing a disc. Once I put a blu ray in it said 4:4:4. I played 3 movies and they all said 4:4:4. In the video adjust both 4:4:4 and RGB were checked (default). Should I take the check mark off the RGB?
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> Ken



No, leave those both checked -- the Auto position for YCbCr and the Studio position for RGB. That menu does dual duty selecting what to do if the input format is YCbCr and also what to do if it is RGB.


When you are not playing a disc, the player is still sending video (its splash screen or menus) so long as it is powered on.


You should have the 83's output HDMI Color Space set to an explicit choice, e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4, and not Auto. Then it should send whichever you have selected even when you are not playing a disc.


-----------------------------------------


Additional to my notes above:


1) Set SACD Output PCM when playing SACD discs over HDMI audio to the Anthem -- the normal way to do it with the 83.


2) Set HDCD Decoding ON.


3) Pick an explicit choice (LPCM or Bitstream) for HDMI Audio. Do not use Auto. Similarly, set 1080p output resolution in the 83. Do not use Auto.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/22015442
> 
> 
> To clarify I am talking about Last Used, not Late Night.



Got it now, and from what I see the problem is that if Last Used is set in Mode Presets (v2.14d), it's acting like it's set to None, for example after reselecting the source. Does that sum it up on your end?


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks Bob,

One more question. In the Video conf. on the D2v what's the recommended setting for the Output Bits, 8, 10, or 12?


On a side note. What's up with the Spears & Munsil test disc. The contrast & brightness are always off with everything I've tried it with.


Ken


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/22020507
> 
> 
> Got it now, and from what I see the problem is that if Last Used is set in Mode Presets (v2.14d), it's acting like it's set to None, for example after reselecting the source. Does that sum it up on your end?



Yes, but I did not try reselecting a source. Here's what I did:

Set mode preset for DTS to "NONE".
Play a DTS source and observe mode changes from PCM to DTS 5.1 NONE.
Change mode to PLIIx.
Pause source and observe mode changes back to PCM.
Play source and observe mode is recalled as DTS 5.1 PLIIx (good).
Now change DTS mode preset to "LAST USED".
Observe DTS 5.1 PLIIx still displayed and then pause source.
Restart AVM by setting MAIN to Standby and then back on.
Wait for mode to indicate PCM.
Play the source and mode changes to DTS 5.1 NONE (not good).


----------



## gerard1meehan

My home is a High ranch and I currently have my temporary theater room (waiting to move a load bearing wall) downstairs that houses my D2v and other equipment. Upstairs in my living room I have another "smaller system". On many occasions I run both systems off my D2v. Basicly I utilize the second HDMI of the D2v and have that going into my upstairs Yamaha AV reciver as an HDMI source. Since the the D2v's HDMI output only supports 2 channel audio I also utilize the coax out of my blue ray player and feed the Yamaha multi channel audio. (or in a case of HDCP lossy audio)


Is there a way I could connect the coax from the player to the D2v and then have the D2v send the audio via coax? (while still utilizing the HDMI for Vidio) I have tried a few ways and I can't figure out how to do it (blu ray or DVD). I would like to use the D2v to send the audio because of its ability to up sample the bit rate. Just as the HDMI into the Yamaha feeds it the improved video of the D2v.


Obviously not as important as faulty units or firmware issues but challenging non the less.


On a side note I have installed the latest Firmware (2.14d) and the unit is working flawlessly. It took 6 try's though where the process timed out due to the loader not responding in the right baud rate. But once in I reloaded and ran ARC. Very happy with the results


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ No setup required besides adding the coax cables to Coax-DVD input and either DIGITAL REC coax output. The data will be passed through with default settings, and 2.0 PCM downmix if REC is set to copy mode (don't do it in this case).


DIGITAL2 coax output has additional setup options in menu 9 in case they're needed some day.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/22021044
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> One more question. In the Video conf. on the D2v what's the recommended setting for the Output Bits, 8, 10, or 12?
> 
> 
> On a side note. What's up with the Spears & Munsil test disc. The contrast & brightness are always off with everything I've tried it with.
> 
> 
> Ken



Again, that's something you need to check against your particular Display. Even Displays that claim to accept 10 or 12 sometimes only treat it as 8, or have peculiarities (i.e., bugs) in the way they display it. The test scene in "Ratatouille", Blu-ray, I alluded to can help in figuring this out.


But before you can even attempt to see such subtle differences, you need to get your calibration levels correct. Which brings us to your Spears & Munsil issue.

*The gray scale charts on Spears & Munsil, Blu-ray are ACCURATE. If you are having trouble getting Contrast and Brightness correct then something is wrong in your setup.*


The OPPO 83 you are using puts out "reference" signals on the HDMI cable when set to its default value (0) Picture Adjustment settings. Set everything in Picture Adjustment on the 83 to 0.


Similarly, in the Anthem, leave the Video Source Adjust > Picture > Brightness/Contrast, etc., settings at their default values for that input from the OPPO.


Make all of your level adjustments using the controls IN YOUR DISPLAY.


In the first post of this thread you will find links to tutorial posts that may give you a leg up on getting things set up correctly. In particular, you need to start by picking the correct "Picture Mode" in your TV. See the Setup related posts included in that long list of tutorial post links.


There's also a whole forum here devoted to Display calibration, where you'll find sticky threads with tutorial information, and folks with helpful advice.


Also check the owner's thread for your model of Display for advice on any preliminary settings you need to make to make it POSSIBLE to adjust the Display properly. Things like turning off Automatic Gain or Contrast adjustments, or Flesh Tone "enhancement".


But trust me on this, the Spears & Munsil gray scale charts are correct, and the 83 renders those charts correctly, and the Anthem passes that along correctly.


By the way, there's a thread here at AVS run by the people who authored that disc, where they answer questions on how to use that disc. A Search should find it.


When people say they are having trouble getting Contrast and Brightness right, often there are one of two common problems. First, they've got the wrong Picture Mode set in their Display -- a mode that makes it impossible to calibrate the display correctly. Second, at some point in the video chain they are sending video in the RGB data format, and there is a mismatch between the two devices at either end of that cable as to which flavor of RGB is in use.


In the OPPO, these are RGB Video Level (the one you want) or RGB PC Level. In the Anthem, the one that matches with RGB Video Level is called Studio RGB. In your Display it could be called anything, but the setting will have only two choices. The one you want is where Black is given the value of 16 instead of 0. If you use YCbCr data format you won't have to worry about this.


This choice as to which flavor of RGB data will be sent and which flavor the receiving device expects has to be made MANUALLY in both devices. The HDMI handshake can determine automatically that RGB data format is in use, but it can NOT tell which flavor of RGB is in us. If there is a mismatch in the choices set in the two devices at either end of a cable, and if RGB data format is in use on that cable, then gray scale will be messed up.

--Bob


----------



## anjora

i noticed a question about 4k support for anthem dv2 3d. i am sure it will pass-trough any video within hdmi 1.4a specifications. the problem is that hdmi 1.4a only allows for 24hz at 3840*2160, for 60hz a higher bitrate connection like displayport 1.2, 120hz requires 2 displayport cables.


my next monitor will be have a resulotion of 2560*1440 so i would like to see a prepro doing video processing for good resolution and not only 1080p. i would like to have a 3840*2160(or 2400) monitor for my next pc, it's for computer monitors it's really needed. i really hopes displayport 1.2 will replace hdmi for several reasons but it might only become standard for pc monitors, this is much dependent by the next gen gaming consoles.


----------



## SimonNo10

Hey Bob. Oppo did get back to me and they want me to test the disc using Analog instead of HDMI but I don't have 5 spare cables to test this so can't do it. Also I got Underworld-Awakening which is DTS-HD MA 7.1 and I tested both Bitstream and LPCM and there was no huge difference that I could tell (I think Bitstream was a little louder but I may be wrong). Not like the difference I'm hearing with Thor. I'm lending the Thor disc to my mate who owns the 50v and he will test it tonight.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Bob. Oppo did get back to me and they want me to test the disc using Analog instead of HDMI but I don't have 5 spare cables to test this so can't do it. Also I got Underworld-Awakening which is DTS-HD MA 7.1 and I tested both Bitstream and LPCM and there was no huge difference that I could tell (I think Bitstream was a little louder but I may be wrong). Not like the difference I'm hearing with Thor. I'm lending the Thor disc to my mate who owns the 50v and he will test it tonight.



I tested Underworld too and found no diff b/t PCM and bitstreaming. The surround effects were the best I have heard in a 7.1 track.

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *anjora* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i noticed a question about 4k support for anthem dv2 3d. i am sure it will pass-trough any video within hdmi 1.4a specifications. the problem is that hdmi 1.4a only allows for 24hz at 3840*2160, for 60hz a higher bitrate connection like displayport 1.2, 120hz requires 2 displayport cables.
> 
> 
> my next monitor will be have a resulotion of 2560*1440 so i would like to see a prepro doing video processing for good resolution and not only 1080p. i would like to have a 3840*2160(or 2400) monitor for my next pc, it's for computer monitors it's really needed. i really hopes displayport 1.2 will replace hdmi for several reasons but it might only become standard for pc monitors, this is much dependent by the next gen gaming consoles.



If it's for a monitor why does it need to go through the D2v? Just go direct to the display from your computer.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, but I did not try reselecting a source.



Nick,

I just tried it and the mode is not remembered across source selections either (no power cycle involved this time). The LAST USED mode preset is truly behaving the same as the NONE mode preset.


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/22021903
> 
> 
> ^ No setup required besides adding the coax cables to Coax-DVD input and either DIGITAL REC coax output. The data will be passed through with default settings, and 2.0 PCM downmix if REC is set to copy mode (don't do it in this case).
> 
> 
> DIGITAL2 coax output has additional setup options in menu 9 in case they're needed some day.



Nick


I didn't do a good job on explaining what I was trying to achieve. I was looking to utilize hdmi for both audio and video on the D2v. Then route the video to my second system via coax. I was acheving this by using the coax out of my blu ray. I would rather route the coax through the D2v. When I try this by conecting the coax out of the blu ray to the digital input for dvd I do not get a signal from the D2v 's coax out


Look forward to you input


----------



## gerard1meehan

I meant route the video to the second system via hdmi and audio via coax


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22023280
> 
> 
> I tested Underworld too and found no diff b/t PCM and bitstreaming. The surround effects were the best I have heard in a 7.1 track.
> 
> John



Without going off topic, but yes one of the best sounding BD's I've yet heard (only watched about 15mins) and some of the best use of surrounds. Incredible sound design so far.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/22023652
> 
> 
> Without going off topic, but yes one of the best sounding BD's I've yet heard (only watched about 15mins) and some of the best use of surrounds. Incredible sound design so far.



And the LFE is insane







.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/22023876
> 
> 
> and the lfe is insane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



+10


----------



## anjora




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/22023303
> 
> 
> If it's for a monitor why does it need to go through the D2v? Just go direct to the display from your computer.



cumputer monitors often has very poor(if any) video processing. i would love to have a prepro with upscaling and processing up to 4k but i don't know if it ever will be released.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/22023242
> 
> 
> Hey Bob. Oppo did get back to me and they want me to test the disc using Analog instead of HDMI but I don't have 5 spare cables to test this so can't do it. Also I got Underworld-Awakening which is DTS-HD MA 7.1 and I tested both Bitstream and LPCM and there was no huge difference that I could tell (I think Bitstream was a little louder but I may be wrong). Not like the difference I'm hearing with Thor. I'm lending the Thor disc to my mate who owns the 50v and he will test it tonight.



Testing 5.1 Analog from the OPPO would be a good test because it would tell whether the issue was in the decoding in the OPPO, or rather something unusual in the way the HDMI LPCM was being handled (either the HDMI data itself or some sort of bug in the Anthem peculiar to LPCM input from that track).


Since the problem is an easy one to spot -- lack of bass dynamics -- to test this, you do NOT need fancy Analog cables. 3 pair of decent, shielded, stereo RCA interconnect cables (one of which is unused) would do the trick. Odds are you have 3 pair of suitable RCA cables hiding in your drawer of old cables.


In the OPPO, set all speakers "Large" and the subwoofer ON. Set all of them equidistant -- any distance will do so long as they are all the same. Set all of them to 0dB Volume Trim, *EXCEPT* set the Subwoofer to +5dB volume trim. Set Down-mix to 5.1. Leave Dynamic Range Control OFF. The Crossover setting is ignored since all speakers in the OPPO are set to Large. Set Volume to Fixed. Set Secondary Audio to OFF for this test.


In the Anthem, set the 6-channel Analog input to ANALOG-DSP with Room EQ ON and Dolby Volume OFF. You can still use HDMI for video. Your existing ARC solution and speaker setup in the Anthem will not need any change. Nor will there be any change in your current Source Setup for the HDMI audio + video from the OPPO.


Check the speaker levels on the 6-channel input using the 5.1 LPCM test track from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, and your SPL meter. They should all be balanced (except sub may be a few dB hot due to Room Gain in your ARC solution).


The +5dB Analog subwoofer volume trim in the OPPO, plus the "standard" +10dB Analog LFE input boost provided in the Anthem, will combine to give you the necessary +15dB boost for that subwoofer Analog input from the OPPO, so the speaker levels already set up via ARC for your HDMI use should not need any further adjustment. But check with AIX to make sure there isn't a goof up in the new connection's settings.


Then check that DTS-HD MA 7.1 track and compare the Analog levels against HDMI LPCM and HDMI Bitstream levels using your original Source Setup definition for the HDMI connection. You'll only have 5.1 input on the Analog connection of course, but that should not affect your test for bass dynamics.


NOTE: By spec, the DTS decoder does different stuff when it knows it is decoding a 7.1 track for 5.1 speakers instead of 7.1 speakers. That means your Analog output will be following this different path through the DTS decoder in the OPPO since you have its down-mix set to 5.1. (Because the Anthem only accepts up to 5.1 on Analog.)


To check whether this is the problem, fib to the OPPO and set the Analog Down-mix in the OPPO to 7.1 with the Rear Left and Rear Right speakers set to Large and configured the same as the other speakers above -- even though those two outputs of the OPPO are not actually wired. Of course this would mean you lose Rear channel content, since it is not down mixed for that Analog output. But that won't impact bass dynamics. If you find a significant reduction in bass dynamics on the Analog output when using the 5.1 down mix vs. using the 7.1 down mix setting with the Rear speakers set to Large (even though they are not wired from the OPPO outputs), then that would be a very significant finding. I don't think that's LIKELY to be the case since the HDMI LPCM path to the Anthem is ALSO a 7.1 channel path. Which means 7.1 style decoding. (The Anthem does the down mix in that case if you actually only have 5.1 speakers configured in it.)

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Bob I lent my disc to my mate who owns the 50v and he got the same result as me with LPCM using HDMI. He also tested his own copy (local Australian) and it did the same thing. So no idea what's going on there.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/22024153
> 
> 
> Bob I lent my disc to my mate who owns the 50v and he got the same result as me with LPCM using HDMI. He also tested his own copy (local Australian) and it did the same thing. So no idea what's going on there.



Pass on the new info to OPPO. And do consider doing the multi-channel Analog test they suggested.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/22023876
> 
> 
> And the LFE is insane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



You want to test your LFE?

Try "The Art of Flight (2011)"

And at least it is enjoyable.


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/22014199
> 
> 
> I hope someone can answer this for me. I know Macca your listening to all your movies with the player doing the decoding (set to lpcm). Now I put Thor on tonight Bluray DTS MA 7.1 and set my Oppo 95 to Lpcm and listened to when Odin slams his staff on the floor during Thors celebration and had the volume at -18 which is normally loud enough for me, and the impact was average bass was weak. Switching the player to Bitstream and the huge soundstage comes back in spades at the same volume and bass is amazing and deep. Why is there such a big difference in volume between Lpcm and Bistream and sound quality? I don't understand what is going on and why the big difference. It's very obvious and I've changed nothing but the processing ( Switching from Bitstream to Lpcm).
> 
> 
> Anyone else get this?



I have a Cambridge Audio blu ray player in the UK, very similar to Oppo 95 I think. I get the same problem with Thor. Bitstream is louder and more dynamic, LPCM is much quieter with less bass and high end. I don't notice the difference so much with other discs but think LPCM is a bit quieter.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22022044
> 
> 
> When people say they are having trouble getting Contrast and Brightness right, often there are one of two common problems. First, they've got the wrong Picture Mode set in their Display -- a mode that makes it impossible to calibrate the display correctly. Second, at some point in the video chain they are sending video in the RGB data format, and there is a mismatch between the two devices at either end of that cable as to which flavor of RGB is in use.



I would add that some test patterns rely on blacker-than-black info. Some players don't reproduce blacker-than-black or it is lost somewhere in the video chain from unwise settings such as extended RGB.


There are fancier test patterns that don't rely on blacker-than-black. In either case a common problem is that people don't know how to use or interpret the patterns, especially if their system is not showing blacker-than-black info.


----------



## [email protected]!

Hello,


has anyone tested PCM stereo via hdmi to the D2V, I have a lack of bass en the sound is thin. Stereo via aanalog is great.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/22024640
> 
> 
> I would add that some test patterns rely on blacker-than-black info. Some players don't reproduce blacker-than-black or it is lost somewhere in the video chain from unwise settings such as extended RGB.
> 
> 
> There are fancier test patterns that don't rely on blacker-than-black. In either case a common problem is that people don't know how to use or interpret the patterns, especially if their system is not showing blacker-than-black info.



There's no such problem when using Spears & Munsil as each Luma value is individually labeled in the charts used for setting Black levels (and also for White levels). In any event, the OPPO players have no problem rendering the Blacker than Black values, and the Anthem has no problem passing them along, assuming in both cases you don't use RGB PC Level data format (which can not carry either the Blacker than Black or Peak White data ranges). So any problem with either of those ranges would have to be in the Display.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]!* /forum/post/22024825
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> has anyone tested PCM stereo via hdmi to the D2V, I have a lack of bass en the sound is thin. Stereo via aanalog is great.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Sure. All the time.


Odds are you have a simple setup error in the setting you are using for the LPCM audio. For example, in Setup > Source Setup for that input make sure you have Room EQ ON so that your ARC solution is in use.


On AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, there's an LPCM test track for Crossover that can be used to check your setup. It sends a tone to your Left Front speaker that sweeps back and forth across the Crossover frequency range. The high frequency end of that bass tone will come out of Left Front exclusively. The low frequency end will come out of your Subwoofer exclusively due to the action of the Crossover in your ARC setup. In between the tone will come partially from both. If things are set correctly, that tone will be constant volume across the full frequency range. If you are playing multi-channel LPCM use the 5.1 or 7.1 LPCM test tracks from that disc to make sure your speaker levels are balanced and that LFE audio (the .1 channel of 5.1 or 7.1) is getting to your Subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]!* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> has anyone tested PCM stereo via hdmi to the D2V, I have a lack of bass en the sound is thin. Stereo via aanalog is great.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I use pcm stereo exclusively, no sub, and there is plenty of bass and the sound is excellent.

John


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22022044
> 
> 
> Again, that's something you need to check against your particular Display. Even Displays that claim to accept 10 or 12 sometimes only treat it as 8, or have peculiarities (i.e., bugs) in the way they display it. The test scene in "Ratatouille", Blu-ray, I alluded to can help in figuring this out.
> 
> 
> But before you can even attempt to see such subtle differences, you need to get your calibration levels correct. Which brings us to your Spears & Munsil issue.
> 
> *The gray scale charts on Spears & Munsil, Blu-ray are ACCURATE. If you are having trouble getting Contrast and Brightness correct then something is wrong in your setup.*
> 
> 
> The OPPO 83 you are using puts out "reference" signals on the HDMI cable when set to its default value (0) Picture Adjustment settings. Set everything in Picture Adjustment on the 83 to 0.
> 
> 
> Similarly, in the Anthem, leave the Video Source Adjust > Picture > Brightness/Contrast, etc., settings at their default values for that input from the OPPO.
> 
> 
> Make all of your level adjustments using the controls IN YOUR DISPLAY.
> 
> 
> In the first post of this thread you will find links to tutorial posts that may give you a leg up on getting things set up correctly. In particular, you need to start by picking the correct "Picture Mode" in your TV. See the Setup related posts included in that long list of tutorial post links.
> 
> 
> There's also a whole forum here devoted to Display calibration, where you'll find sticky threads with tutorial information, and folks with helpful advice.
> 
> 
> Also check the owner's thread for your model of Display for advice on any preliminary settings you need to make to make it POSSIBLE to adjust the Display properly. Things like turning off Automatic Gain or Contrast adjustments, or Flesh Tone "enhancement".
> 
> 
> But trust me on this, the Spears & Munsil gray scale charts are correct, and the 83 renders those charts correctly, and the Anthem passes that along correctly.
> 
> 
> By the way, there's a thread here at AVS run by the people who authored that disc, where they answer questions on how to use that disc. A Search should find it.
> 
> 
> When people say they are having trouble getting Contrast and Brightness right, often there are one of two common problems. First, they've got the wrong Picture Mode set in their Display -- a mode that makes it impossible to calibrate the display correctly. Second, at some point in the video chain they are sending video in the RGB data format, and there is a mismatch between the two devices at either end of that cable as to which flavor of RGB is in use.
> 
> 
> In the OPPO, these are RGB Video Level (the one you want) or RGB PC Level. In the Anthem, the one that matches with RGB Video Level is called Studio RGB. In your Display it could be called anything, but the setting will have only two choices. The one you want is where Black is given the value of 16 instead of 0. If you use YCbCr data format you won't have to worry about this.
> 
> 
> This choice as to which flavor of RGB data will be sent and which flavor the receiving device expects has to be made MANUALLY in both devices. The HDMI handshake can determine automatically that RGB data format is in use, but it can NOT tell which flavor of RGB is in us. If there is a mismatch in the choices set in the two devices at either end of a cable, and if RGB data format is in use on that cable, then gray scale will be messed up.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for all the info Bob but the S&M disc still doesn't work.

I had the JVC RS20 projector calibrated by Jeff Meier. I checked the Oppo 83 settings and they are all at "0". The Brightness & Contrast settings for the D2v were set at 50. I believe this is the default setting for the Anthem.

I pulled up the proj. menu and turning up the Brightness I can see the #17 black bar but the Contrast is a different story.

I ran Contrast up & down the scale and all I can see are 5 bars on the far left.

If I leave the proj. settings where they are and use the Anthem controls for the Contrast & Brightness all of the bars are visible but when adjusted per the instructions, the Contrast is way off. The Brightness isn't as bad though since I went from 50 to 53. The Contrast was from 50 down to 40.


I'm using User 1 for the Picture Mode on the projector w/4:4:4. The Anthem is set to 4:4:4.

Are you saying to set the 83 & the Anthem both to RGB and then calibrate? (the proj. also has a RGB setting). Do I set them back when I'm done?


Ken


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan* /forum/post/22023353
> 
> 
> I didn't do a good job on explaining what I was trying to achieve.



Oops, you explained it right though my thinking was stuck in the pre-HDMI days when defaults would have worked.


This second method will work as long as you need coax passthrough for only one source: Connect it to any unused D2v input, for example Tape or Aux, and in its source setup assign this coax connection. On the D2v output side, use the second coax output and in menu 9 assign DIGITAL2 to the same input. This hard-wiring only works for the second digital REC output.


----------



## p.las

I have the European edition ( Thor ) and a bdp 83. I Will try to see if there is a differencen pcm vs bitstream


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/22025329
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the info Bob but the S&M disc still doesn't work.
> 
> I had the JVC RS20 projector calibrated by Jeff Meier. I checked the Oppo 83 settings and they are all at "0". The Brightness & Contrast settings for the D2v were set at 50. I believe this is the default setting for the Anthem.
> 
> I pulled up the proj. menu and turning up the Brightness I can see the #17 black bar but the Contrast is a different story.
> 
> I ran Contrast up & down the scale and all I can see are 5 bars on the far left.
> 
> If I leave the proj. settings where they are and use the Anthem controls for the Contrast & Brightness all of the bars are visible but when adjusted per the instructions, the Contrast is way off. The Brightness isn't as bad though since I went from 50 to 53. The Contrast was from 50 down to 40.
> 
> 
> I'm using User 1 for the Picture Mode on the projector w/4:4:4. The Anthem is set to 4:4:4.
> 
> Are you saying to set the 83 & the Anthem both to RGB and then calibrate? (the proj. also has a RGB setting). Do I set them back when I'm done?
> 
> 
> Ken



You have a settings problem somewhere. Most likely in the Projector.


Try this: Set the OPPO to output YCbCr 4:4:4. Set the Anthem to Output EITHER YCbCr 4:4:4 OR Studio RGB (check both). Use the default Picture Adjustment settings in the OPPO and the default Video Source Adjust > Picture settings in the Anthem.


With those settings the output of the Anthem will include the full Luma range. If you raise Brightness in the projector the Blacker than Black Luma values (16 and below) should become visible. If you lower Contrast in the projector the Peak White Luma values (236 to 254) should become visible. Now you should be able to adjust Brightness/Contrast in the projector to achieve proper levels.


Your CALIBRATED settings in the Projector should already do that *UNLESS* your calibrator set your projector to expect RGB PC Level video (what the Anthem calls RGB Extended).


RGB PC Level video encodes Black as 0 and Reference White as 255. Since there are no values below 0 or above 255 there's no place to put Blacker than Black or Peak White data. Your display should not be calibrated that way, but perhaps your calibrator had to do that to work around some problem in the equipment you were using before to feed the display.


RGB Video Level (and YCbCr) encode Black as 16 and Reference White as 235. The values below 16 are the Blacker than Black values. The values above 235 are the Peak White values.


What I'm saying is that if you can't see the Blacker than Black and Peak White Luma values by adjusting Brightness/Contrast in the projector then there is some problem in the setup of the projector.

--Bob


----------



## Wookii

I think this problem is in the D2v, because I have the exact same problem. I have the JVC X70 (RS65 in the US I think) and if the brightness and contrast in the D2v are both set to 50 it clips the video signal somehow and you lose BTB and WTW (if that's the right terminology).


To fix it you have up brightness to mid 50's and reduce contrast to mid 40's.


I confirmed this by taking the D2v out of the video loop and going through a Lumagen instead; doing so without any other adjustments fixed the issue with no need to change anything on the fully calibrated PJ.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977* /forum/post/22026089
> 
> 
> I think this problem is in the D2v, because I have the exact same problem. I have the JVC X70 (RS65 in the US I think) and if the brightness and contrast in the D2v are both set to 50 it clips the video signal somehow and you lose BTB and WTW (if that's the right terminology).
> 
> 
> To fix it you have up brightness to mid 50's and reduce contrast to mid 40's.
> 
> 
> I confirmed this by taking the D2v out of the video loop and going through a Lumagen instead; doing so without any other adjustments fixed the issue with no need to change anything on the fully calibrated PJ.



No. I guarantee you the D2v is not clipping blacks or whites when set to its default Video Source Adjust input settings and using Studio RGB, YCbCr 4:4:4, or YCbCr 4:2:2 output.


By pushing Brightness up and Contrast down the way you describe what you are doing is squeezing the range from Black to Reference White into a smaller number of steps. That's what's forcing that data into visibility.


The most likely cause is your setup with the D2v in the video path is using RGB PC Level ("Extended RGB") at some point without the appropriate setting in place at both ends of the cable. In the D2v the input choice is made in Video Source Adjust > Picture > Input Color Space by check marking the correct line of the two RGB choices. In the D2v the output choice is made in Video Output Configuration > Data Format by selecting Studio RGB or Extended RGB.


Keep in mind that when set correctly, the Blacker than Black values are not supposed to be visible. Luma 16 and below should merge together into a single, indistinguishable Black. But if you raise Brightness IN THE PROJECTOR, then those values below 16 should become visible because you have told the projector to show them. That's just to prove the data is getting to the projector. You need to lower Brightness back down in the projector to make them properly invisible again.

--Bob


----------



## Wookii

Ok, I'll have to experiment some more - off the top of my head, this may have something to do with the HDMI Enhanced setting in the JVC. What I can't understand is why everything is fine when the D2v is out of the loop (the Lumagen was definitely set to 16-235) as the D2v is (I think).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Typically the problem is that you are using RGB in one setup and YCbCr in the other. Which means the Black Level setting (i.e., whether Black is encoded as 16 -- what you want -- or 0) applies in one case and not the other.


My understanding is that the JVC projectors tend to work better with RGB input as well, which can complicate things depending on just what it is they do oddly with YCbCr input.


If you are using an Auto setting in the Lumagen or the Anthem then they may be finding the JVC prefers RGB as the choice.


But you definitely want to figure this out, because raising Brightness and lowering Contrast like that is squishing the Luma range into a fewer number of steps, which means lower quality video. I.e., you've fixed one mistake by setting a second, counteracting mistake. And such a combo is discarding information.


ETA: That "HDMI 'Enhanced'" setting you allude to sounds like a Prime Suspect to me.

--Bob


----------



## Wookii

OK, if that's the case that's bad







I am all about maximising the image quality.


When the Lumagen was in play it was definately YCbCr all the way through, the Lumagen info screen confirmed that.


The D2v is set to Auto rather than forcing YCbCr, so I will try that.


It is strange as the HDMI Enhanced setting has always been recommended to be on, even from ISF pros that I have spoken to and again it was on when the Lumagen was in play even though the Lumagen was set to 16-235 and the BTB calibration bar could be dialled in without an issue.


I'll spin up my test disc later and run through some options to see if I can get the BTB bar to show up with the D2v settings at 50.


----------



## p.las

Okay - i have tryed to watch Thor bitstream vs lpcm. Bitstream is 6db louder.but i Can not hear any difference in LFE , bitstream vs lpcm. But i must say that it seams to me that bitstream Sounds a tad more open. I have made the test on captain America and kick ass and the levvels are the same. But again - bitstream Sounds a tad more open


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ That's an interesting finding. I presume you are correcting for the volume difference before comparing them.


I wonder what might cause that volume difference just for that track?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977* /forum/post/22026240
> 
> 
> OK, if that's the case that's bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am all about maximising the image quality.
> 
> 
> When the Lumagen was in play it was definately YCbCr all the way through, the Lumagen info screen confirmed that.
> 
> 
> The D2v is set to Auto rather than forcing YCbCr, so I will try that.
> 
> 
> It is strange as the HDMI Enhanced setting has always been recommended to be on, even from ISF pros that I have spoken to and again it was on when the Lumagen was in play even though the Lumagen was set to 16-235 and the BTB calibration bar could be dialled in without an issue.
> 
> 
> I'll spin up my test disc later and run through some options to see if I can get the BTB bar to show up with the D2v settings at 50.



My guess is the Auto setting is sending RGB to that projector and the "enhanced" setting is expecting Extended RGB as the input format. Sending explicit YCbCr should duplicate what's happening from the Lumagen.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22026441
> 
> 
> ^ That's an interesting finding. I presume you are correcting for the volume difference before comparing them.
> 
> 
> I wonder what might cause that volume difference just for that track?
> 
> --Bob



I have corrected the volume 6 dB , when i compared them. I was in the start when Odin hammert he's stick inn the Ground , and the folowing break inn


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My guess is the Auto setting is sending RGB to that projector and the "enhanced" setting is expecting Extended RGB as the input format. Sending explicit YCbCr should duplicate what's happening from the Lumagen.
> 
> --Bob



In my RS 50, I use Auto, oppo RGB, Anthem Studio RGB. Recommended by Nick and my calibrator Michael Chen. These settings work just as Bob suggests with test discs.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> In my RS 50, I use Auto, oppo RGB, Anthem



Auto in the OPPO will send YCbCr 4:4:4 to the D2v, which is fine.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have corrected the volume 6 dB , when i compared them. I was in the start when Odin hammert he's stick inn the Ground , and the folowing break inn



I should ask you to confirm that Dynamic Range Control is set to OFF in the OPPO.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22026559
> 
> 
> I should ask you to confirm that Dynamic Range Control is set to OFF in the OPPO.
> 
> --Bob



Also what is p.las using to measure this 6dB difference?


Although I'm not too worried about relative level differences so long as there are decoding errors in the Anthem with DTS 7.1


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22026529
> 
> 
> Auto in the OPPO will send YCbCr 4:4:4 to the D2v, which is fine.
> 
> --Bob



I think he said Auto in the JVC, RGB elsewhere.


But wouldn't Auto in the source depend on what the display is requesting, even with the D2v in between?


----------



## Whitl

I have the D2 and have ordered a BDP-95, I want to use the balanced analog outputs, it is difficult to see the back of the D2 but based on the picture in the manual they look like male xlr connectors, and the BDP-95 also looks like males as well, is there such a thing as female to female xlr cables and anybody have any recommendations for a decent cable


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/22026961
> 
> 
> I think he said Auto in the JVC, RGB elsewhere.
> 
> 
> But wouldn't Auto in the source depend on what the display is requesting, even with the D2v in between?



No. Auto from the Source gets the preferred setting from the EDID of the Anthem (which is YCbCr 4:4:4). That *might* be different if "Through" is set in the new hardware, but I've not tested that.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/22026399
> 
> 
> Okay - i have tryed to watch Thor bitstream vs lpcm. Bitstream is 6db louder.but i Can not hear any difference in LFE , bitstream vs lpcm. But i must say that it seams to me that bitstream Sounds a tad more open. I have made the test on captain America and kick ass and the levvels are the same. But again - bitstream Sounds a tad more open



This begs the question, which one is playing back at the correct level?


I don't have Thor on bluray but here's an old test with War of the Worlds:










The tested segment was the Morgan Freeman narration at the beginning of the movie so it really only shows the difference in levels on the center channel.

They were old tests so may be a tad outdated given the fw updates.


I'll pick up Thor and run some tests at some stage.


Cheers


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I should ask you to confirm that Dynamic Range Control is set to OFF in the OPPO.
> 
> --Bob



In my case Dynamic Range Control is definitely off.


The scene I'm testing with in where the robot thingy comes down and attacks the town. Using bitstream the LFE in the footfalls is better and the tinkle in the breaking glass and crashing cars is more noticeable I am accounting for the difference in volume level between bitstream and LPCM.


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks again Bob and Jayray for the help.


When I change the settings as suggested and calibrate do I leave the settings you suggest or go back to what I was using?


Ken


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/22027773
> 
> 
> In my case Dynamic Range Control is definitely off.
> 
> 
> The scene I'm testing with in where the robot thingy comes down and attacks the town. Using bitstream the LFE in the footfalls is better and the tinkle in the breaking glass and crashing cars is more noticeable I am accounting for the difference in volume level between bitstream and LPCM.



Yeah it's the whole movie that sounds weaker using LPCM, and that's confirmed on my mates setup using an Oppo 93 and a 50v (HDMI 1 only). He said it was a big difference and even raising the volume while using LPCM didn't change his impressions.


I'm just glad it's not just me and my system.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22026559
> 
> 
> I should ask you to confirm that Dynamic Range Control is set to OFF in the OPPO.
> 
> --Bob



yes - DR is off , and so are Secundery audio


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/22026909
> 
> 
> Also what is p.las using to measure this 6dB difference?
> 
> 
> Although I'm not too worried about relative level differences so long as there are decoding errors in the Anthem with DTS 7.1



i have using a radioshack to measure som dialog, in the coffey shop scene, where Thor is eating.


i think the right levels are from LPCM. In bitstream i get 110-115 db output , when the mastervolume is on - 7 db


i will use bitstream - i think it's a tad more open .


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350* /forum/post/22027651
> 
> 
> This begs the question, which one is playing back at the correct level?
> 
> 
> I don't have Thor on bluray but here's an old test with War of the Worlds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tested segment was the Morgan Freeman narration at the beginning of the movie so it really only shows the difference in levels on the center channel.
> 
> They were old tests so may be a tad outdated given the fw updates.
> 
> 
> I'll pick up Thor and run some tests at some stage.
> 
> 
> Cheers



there is no doubt in my mind that the correct level is LPCM - output from my system when the master volume is -7db is about 110-115 db. that is almost the 6db difference bitstream vs LPCM.


i am pretty convenst that bitstream is a tad more open - and maybe it sound a little bit more dynamic in the treble - a consecuens of the more open sound.

but that's on all movies i have tested DTS HD 5.1 and 7.1


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob and Jayray for the help.
> 
> 
> When I change the settings as suggested and calibrate do I leave the settings you suggest or go back to what I was using?
> 
> 
> Ken



Once you've found settings that allow for proper calibration, you can start to experiment. But when you change something, recheck the calibration. Don't use settings that prevent you from achieving proper calibration. It's OK if different choices of Color Space or Deep Color require tweaks in the settings in your Display to restore proper calibration. Just write any such stuff down and remember to make the changes when comparing between choices.


If you find different combos of settings that all let you calibrate properly (possibly with tweaks in your Display settings), then the issue is choosing between them. That scene in "Ratatouille", Blu-ray may be helpful in making that choice.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe i have managed to reliably duplicate the purple haze this time...
> 
> 
> Whenever i switch back and forth from a source whose Scaler Input setting is "HDMI1" (for example for my HD DVR cable box) to another whose Scaler Input setting is set to "None" (which i have for my 2CH direct mode for CD playback).
> 
> 
> When i change the setting from None to HDMI1, for example, and switch between sources with scaler inputs set to HDMI, the haze disappears. But if i switch it back to None and switch back and forth between them, then the purple haze appears again.
> 
> 
> This is easily reproducible in version 2.14d(may 5) FW in my system.
> 
> 
> I have my video o/p config is 1080p/60, 12-bits, Studio RGB, HDTV colorspace.



That sounds like good info to email to Anthem. Don't assume they'll see it if you just post it here.

--Bob


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> there is no doubt in my mind that the correct level is LPCM - output from my system when the master volume is -7db is about 110-115 db. that is almost the 6db difference bitstream vs LPCM.
> 
> 
> i am pretty convenst that bitstream is a tad more open - and maybe it sound a little bit more dynamic in the treble - a consecuens of the more open sound.
> 
> but that's on all movies i have tested DTS HD 5.1 and 7.1



I agree that bitstream sounds more open, I thought it was just me as most people here say there is no difference between bitstream and LPCM. I agree that on a lot of movies the difference is minimal but I still think there is one. On Thor the difference is most noticeable.


Incidentally, I have a 5.1 system so I'm wondering if the Anthem is doing something weird to 'squeeze' the 7.1 tracks when using LPCM, i.e. losing something?


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/22025353
> 
> 
> Oops, you explained it right though my thinking was stuck in the pre-HDMI days when defaults would have worked.
> 
> 
> This second method will work as long as you need coax passthrough for only one source: Connect it to any unused D2v input, for example Tape or Aux, and in its source setup assign this coax connection. On the D2v output side, use the second coax output and in menu 9 assign DIGITAL2 to the same input. This hard-wiring only works for the second digital REC output.



Worked like a charm! thanks.


Is that output upscaled by the D2v? (24/192?)


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22028385
> 
> 
> That sounds like good info to email to Anthem. Don't assume they'll see it if you just post it here.
> 
> --Bob



Already sent to Nick last night ...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Folks, keep in mind that we KNOW Bitstream decoding of DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks is duplicating Side Surround speaker content in the LF/RF speakers on the same side.


This could give a "false impression" of fuller or "more open" sound simply because of the characteristics of the front speakers, when in reality it is just an artifact of faulty decoding in the Anthem.


The test for whether dynamics are correct or not probably won't be confused by this, although any necessary volume matching WILL be affected by it.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *anjora* /forum/post/22023944
> 
> 
> cumputer monitors often has very poor(if any) video processing. i would love to have a prepro with upscaling and processing up to 4k but i don't know if it ever will be released.



Prepros are usually the last component to get video processing for new formats. It starts with projectors, displays, then stand-alone video scalers, then receivers, then prepros (or sometimes never).


Note: For computer data you wouldn't want scaling, generally speaking, the computer should do the scaling and feed the monitor at its native resolution. If watching movies on the monitor it would be ideal to feed the display at 24Hz if the monitor could perform frame repition internally to bring that up to 72Hz without need for specialized high-bandwidth interfaces.


----------



## Kensmith48




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22028382
> 
> 
> Once you've found settings that allow for proper calibration, you can start to experiment. But when you change something, recheck the calibration. Don't use settings that prevent you from achieving proper calibration. It's OK if different choices of Color Space or Deep Color require tweaks in the settings in your Display to restore proper calibration. Just write any such stuff down and remember to make the changes when comparing between choices.
> 
> 
> If you find different combos of settings that all let you calibrate properly (possibly with tweaks in your Display settings), then the issue is choosing between them. That scene in "Ratatouille", Blu-ray may be helpful in making that choice.
> 
> --Bob



To get to the Contrast & Brightness screen with all the bars visible on the S&M disc I had to set the proj. the Oppo 83 and the D2v all to RGB. Otherwise , with Jayrays settings I had a grass colored screen and with other settings I got a magenta screen.

I had to lower the brightness fro +1 to -4 but the contrast stayed the same.

I still have to go into the D2v's menu and set the brightness & contrast there but that should be easy. I didn't have the time today.

The RGB on movies looked a little off. I went back to 4:4:4 on everything and the picture is alot better. Just a little darker. The adjustments I'll make in the D2v will probably correct this. I'm using 10 bit on everything.


Ken


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22029396
> 
> 
> Folks, keep in mind that we KNOW Bitstream decoding of DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks is duplicating Side Surround speaker content in the LF/RF speakers on the same side.
> 
> 
> This could give a "false impression" of fuller or "more open" sound simply because of the characteristics of the front speakers, when in reality it is just an artifact of faulty decoding in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> The test for whether dynamics are correct or not probably won't be confused by this, although any necessary volume matching WILL be affected by it.
> 
> --Bob



I also feel that is on DTS hd 5.1. But Maybe it is placebo. But i feels like there is more attack inn midrange and treble .


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> To get to the Contrast & Brightness screen with all the bars visible on the S&M disc I had to set the proj. the Oppo 83 and the D2v all to RGB. Otherwise , with Jayrays settings I had a grass colored screen and with other settings I got a magenta screen.
> 
> I had to lower the brightness fro +1 to -4 but the contrast stayed the same.
> 
> I still have to go into the D2v's menu and set the brightness & contrast there but that should be easy. I didn't have the time today.
> 
> The RGB on movies looked a little off. I went back to 4:4:4 on everything and the picture is alot better. Just a little darker. The adjustments I'll make in the D2v will probably correct this. I'm using 10 bit on everything.
> 
> 
> Ken



There must be a diff b/t the RS20 and RS50. My settings look great and if the pj is set to anything else I get the magenta and grass screen. Go figure.

John


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/22027190
> 
> 
> I have the D2 and have ordered a BDP-95, I want to use the balanced analog outputs, it is difficult to see the back of the D2 but based on the picture in the manual they look like male xlr connectors, and the BDP-95 also looks like males as well, is there such a thing as female to female xlr cables and anybody have any recommendations for a decent cable



The 2-ch in xlr connections on the D2 are female.

The xlr outs on the oppo 95 are male.

So you will need just the standard m/f xlr cable.


Monoprice cables has good cables for @$11/3ft pair, blu jeans cables for @$30/3ft pair.


You may be able to find some good cables, at a reasonable price, at a guitar/music store locally, since musicians use xlr cables to connect their equipment.


If you want to spend twice as much for cables as the Oppo 95 costs, there are a number of cable manufacturers who would be happy to sell you a pair for thousands of dollars, but they probably won't work any better than the much cheaper Blue Jeans or Monoprice.

I doubt that you or I could tell the difference in a double blind test.


Tom


EDIT: Also remember to check the 'analog input level' for the '2-ch bal' input in the D2 setup menu after you get the oppo 95 hooked up. The signal input thru the balanced xlr connections sometimes runs a little hotter and you may need to tone it down to get it sounding right. There are good instructions in the D2 manual for doing this.


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Folks, keep in mind that we KNOW Bitstream decoding of DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks is duplicating Side Surround speaker content in the LF/RF speakers on the same side.
> 
> 
> This could give a "false impression" of fuller or "more open" sound simply because of the characteristics of the front speakers, when in reality it is just an artifact of faulty decoding in the Anthem.
> 
> 
> The test for whether dynamics are correct or not probably won't be confused by this, although any necessary volume matching WILL be affected by it.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


When using a 5.1 system and LPCM for a 7.1 track where should the sound for the non existent side speakers go, the rear speakers or just be lost? Are we sure the Anthem is handling this correctly?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> When using a 5.1 system and LPCM for a 7.1 track where should the sound for the non existent side speakers go, the rear speakers or just be lost? Are we sure the Anthem is handling this correctly?



In a 5.1 configuration, the surround speakers are SIDE speakers, regardless of how far back you have actually placed them.


The 7.1 LPCM has Rear speaker channels which are mixed into the Sides when using only 5.1 speakers for output. Both are attenuated for balance since one speaker will be carrying the content for two channels on each side.


There is standardized math for doing this and the Anthem does it correctly.

--Bob


----------



## Whitl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> The 2-ch in xlr connections on the D2 are female.
> 
> The xlr outs on the oppo 95 are male.
> 
> So you will need just the standard m/f xlr cable.
> 
> 
> Monoprice cables has good cables for @$11/3ft pair, blu jeans cables for @$30/3ft pair.
> 
> 
> You may be able to find some good cables, at a reasonable price, at a guitar/music store locally, since musicians use xlr cables to connect their equipment.
> 
> 
> If you want to spend twice as much for cables as the Oppo 95 costs, there are a number of cable manufacturers who would be happy to sell you a pair for thousands of dollars, but they probably won't work any better than the much cheaper Blue Jeans or Monoprice.
> 
> I doubt that you or I could tell the difference in a double blind test.
> 
> 
> Tom
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also remember to check the 'analog input level' for the '2-ch bal' input in the D2 setup menu after you get the oppo 95 hooked up. The signal input thru the balanced xlr connections sometimes runs a little hotter and you may need to tone it down to get it sounding right. There are good instructions in the D2 manual for doing this.



Thank you very much for your help I could have sworn the D2 had female connectors, will order the blue cables, any experience with their speaker cables and do you think bi-wiring is worth it, very difficult to double up on the back of the D2.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/22031289
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for your help I could have sworn the D2 had female connectors, will order the blue cables, any experience with their speaker cables and do you think bi-wiring is worth it, very difficult to double up on the back of the D2.



The D2 '2 ch bal' connectors are female. The oppo's balanced out connections are male.

XLR's with m/f connectors are what you want. Garrantee it.


FWIW I bi-wire my fronts and center. I never really a/b'd bi-wiring and just using the jumpers that came with my speakers, but it makes me feel better.










Tom


----------



## wasteofmoney

Hello. First time in here. Nice thread you got goin here. Just got a nice Bryston 9B-ST for $600 shipped and pulled the trigger on a mint D2 w/ARC for $2050 shipped. I assume it's the new style since it was made in 2008. Did I get dupped? Not sure what the going rate is with all the D2V's out now. Wondering how this D2 will hold its value. I hate to dish out that kind of money for a pre


----------



## AVfile

I don't know what you could have gotten better for that money. Should be a great system! They are both very high quality components built by reputable companies with the best service in the business.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/22032775
> 
> 
> Hello. First time in here. Nice thread you got goin here. Just got a nice Bryston 9B-ST for $600 shipped and pulled the trigger on a mint D2 w/ARC for $2050 shipped. I assume it's the new style since it was made in 2008. Did I get dupped? Not sure what the going rate is with all the D2V's out now. Wondering how this D2 will hold its value. I hate to dish out that kind of money for a pre



This sounds suspicious.

Where did you buy the Bryston @ $600.00 ?

You can't buy the face plate for $600.

The D2 was also a steal.

About $1000.00 below the market


----------



## AVfile

Yeah, for those prices I hope he is happy with the sound. Maybe he meant $6000!


That reminds me, whatever happened to our old friend Arthur who was not happy with the D2v? This was his last post, after getting much help here, but he seems to have gone to the Audyssey forum since











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurrubenstein* /forum/post/21453341
> 
> 
> thanks so much... this like reading a treatise on the subject.... thank you again
> 
> 
> p.s. i did not disturb any other cables and every time i replaced the center connection the pic and sound returned... 3 times... i am at a loss...crazy ..


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah, for those prices I hope he is happy with the sound. Maybe he meant $6000!
> 
> 
> That reminds me, whatever happened to our old friend Arthur who was not happy with the D2v? This was his last post, after getting much help here, but he seems to have gone to the Audyssey forum since



I guess Audyssey is easier to use









John


----------



## wasteofmoney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/22033452
> 
> 
> This sounds suspicious.
> 
> Where did you buy the Bryston @ $600.00 ?
> 
> You can't buy the face plate for $600.
> 
> The D2 was also a steal.
> 
> About $1000.00 below the market




Yes. $600 on Ebay. He listed one for $575 shipped which I watched vanish right in front of my eyes. I then contacted him on the side to see what else he had. He emailed me and said he had a bunch of these amps (three 9B-ST's, and one 8B-ST) which were part of an extensive home system. I offered him $575 for the second one, but he told me $600 and would send a detailed Paypal invoice. Of course I said yes, and immediately asked him if I can also purchase the third one for my brother-in-law once he sends me the tracking for the first one.


I wanted to make sure this guy was for real. He probably caught on and realized he was giving them away, so he never responded to my offer about the third one. I seen one listed this morning on Ebay (same seller) for $975 shipped (which is still cheap) and it vanished within 15 minutes. I considered snatching it today, but I was waiting for FedEx to deliver the one I already paid him $600 for to make sure I didn't get scammed. I did get it, and it was the real deal (only 8 years old) however not exaclty as he described it (excellent condition). The front was clean with a 1/2" scratch on the handle, and the back handles (it's a PRO series) were both bent inward with a tiny dent on the top right corner of the case. Internals and heat sinks all look good, no broken speaker terminals, all channels work, powers up and stays nice and quiet. I just straightened the handles with a soft rag and a pipe wrench. No original box/receipt. I'm happy though. I wouldn't be surprised if they were hot considering the unusual damage, and no original packing. Maybe someone was trying run with these beasts










As far as the D2 goes, I just kept offering some guy on Audigon 2K while he sat on an overpriced one for quite a while, and he finally caved in and decided to let it go.


I'm so excited, i'm crappin in my pants. The old Onkyo TX-SR606 is getting the boot right off to Ebay. I'm on the hunt for some good speakers. probably Dynaudio's. I have a 2-channel rig with some pretty high end Dynaudio's which I keep seperate from my H/T system. Most likely will stock up on 4 used Dynaudio Audience bookshelves and matching center, and Velodyne sub. I'm sure the Bryston can tell them where to shove it. For the small amount I will have invested, I will be abusive. The Dyn's like it anyway and sound best when pounded hard. The drivers are top notch


----------



## wasteofmoney

Can anyone recommend a good BD player to go with the D2? Would the Oppo BDP-93 be overkill? Not sure if it would add any benefit since the D2 does video processing.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/22038577
> 
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good BD player to go with the D2? Would the Oppo BDP-93 be overkill? Not sure if it would add any benefit since the D2 does video processing.



What are you looking for beyond just BD video performance. Are you into net streaming of audio/video files? Then get the 93. Do you cate for excellent analog audio? Then get the 95 ($999), which has the exact video performance and other features as the 93, with the exception of a specialized analgo audio with extra stereo outputs via XLR and RCA outputs.


Do you care for excellent and responsive customer support? Prompt FW releases to add features and fix bugs? Do you want a player that has virtually won praises and accolades friom all major and minor audio/video establishments? The pluses for the 93/95 are simply too many to list ...







My 95 works superb with my D2v...


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/22038577
> 
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good BD player to go with the D2? Would the Oppo BDP-93 be overkill? Not sure if it would add any benefit since the D2 does video processing.



It would be of benefit if:


-If you have (or plan to get) a 3D display, since you can run hdmi1 from the oppo93 to display and hdmi2 from the oppo to D2 for audio.

-If you want to stream movies

-if you want to play movies or music off a computer

-if you play SACD's or DVD-A music

-if you want to buy from a company that stands behind its product with exceptional customer and tech service


I hope I don't sound like too much of a fanboy, but there's a reason many of the contributors on this thread use an Oppo. Well worth the price IMHO.


Tom


----------



## wasteofmoney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/22038661
> 
> 
> It would be of benefit if:
> 
> 
> -If you have (or plan to get) a 3D display, since you can run hdmi1 from the oppo93 to display and hdmi2 from the oppo to D2 for audio.
> 
> -If you want to stream movies
> 
> -if you want to play movies or music off a computer
> 
> -if you play SACD's or DVD-A music
> 
> -if you want to buy from a company that stands behind its product with exceptional customer and tech service
> 
> 
> I hope I don't sound like too much of a fanboy, but there's a reason many of the contributors on this thread use an Oppo. Well worth the price IMHO.
> 
> 
> Tom



Actually I only intend to play Blu-ray discs in this HT system. No 3D. I don't care for the quality and service of Netflix streaming. I subsribe to them for discs only. I don't intend on streaming music either. I just wanted to know if the Oppo-93will give me better video quality than a sub-$150 BD player when used with the D2. I do desire good build quality from the BD player though.


----------



## Kris Deering

There are plenty of inexpensive Blu-ray players that deliver an accurate image from Blu-ray discs that cost less than the Oppo. Build quality is reflective of their price, but if image from BD discs is all you care about, you can find the same performance as the Oppo for a lot less money. Typically I recommend the Panasonic players to those looking for just solid Blu-ray playback without the bells and whistles and at low prices.


----------



## wasteofmoney

Yes Kris. That's exactly right. Image quality is my only concern, and also something that wont rattle and fall apart within a year. Any particular models of the Panasonic that you recommend?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/22038794
> 
> 
> Actually I only intend to play Blu-ray discs in this HT system. No 3D. I don't care for the quality and service of Netflix streaming. I subsribe to them for discs only. I don't intend on streaming music either. I just wanted to know if the Oppo-93will give me better video quality than a sub-$150 BD player when used with the D2. I do desire good build quality from the BD player though.



If thats all you want it for then, like Kris said, Panasonic is fine. Sony is also good. Ther may be others as well. There isn't much needed to get 1080p to 1080p with BR.

If you have dvd's also, the D2 will handle converting 480i to 1080p extremely well. The D2 has an excellent video section, as you'll find out soon.

I don't know what components you are replacing with the anthem, but chances are you will notice an improvement in audio quality also. But I'm a D2 fanboy, too.











Tom


----------



## wasteofmoney

I'm replacing a lower tier Onkyo TX-NR606 and cheap satellites. Definitely will notice an improvement










Never had the space at my old house. The basement in the home I just purchased happens to have a perfectly rectangular room ideal for sound. Just need to do some budget acoustic treatments and run the ARC. I will also have a completely seperate 2-channel system in the room (Bryston BP-25DA pre, 4B-SST amp, and pair of Dynaudio Focus 220MKII's). I have over 600GB of FLAC files to keep me occupied incase I get sick of the screen.


Tom. I have a few hundred DVD's now that you mention it so that's cool that the improvement is there with the D2.


----------



## dweltman

So I moved into a new house, and have set up a projector screen setup with a new JVC projector. We are running a Key Digital cat6 balun about 75 feet, and I am having no problems with 1080p24, 1080i60, or 1080p50. (not that I use 1080p50 but I thought I would try it out.) With 1080p60 I get the green speckles. We tried swapping out HDMI cables to no avail. Also we tried plugging the 1080p60 sources (a Verizon Fios box and an Xbox 360 Kinect) directly into the balun and the speckles disappeared. This is making my installer think it is an Anthem issue. I tried reflashing the 2.11 firmware, without change. Is there anything else to try? Is this a bad HDMI board that will require sending the D2V back to Canada, or are there things Anthem support can do short of seeing the unit back at the factory?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So I moved into a new house, and have set up a projector screen setup with a new JVC projector. We are running a Key Digital cat6 balun about 75 feet, and I am having no problems with 1080p24, 1080i60, or 1080p50. (not that I use 1080p50 but I thought I would try it out.) With 1080p60 I get the green speckles. We tried swapping out HDMI cables to no avail. Also we tried plugging the 1080p60 sources (a Verizon Fios box and an Xbox 360 Kinect) directly into the balun and the speckles disappeared. This is making my installer think it is an Anthem issue. I tried reflashing the 2.11 firmware, without change. Is there anything else to try? Is this a bad HDMI board that will require sending the D2V back to Canada, or are there things Anthem support can do short of seeing the unit back at the factory?



Ask Anthem for the beta version 2.14d. That may help.

John


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22041387
> 
> 
> Ask Anthem for the beta version 2.14d. That may help.
> 
> John



I have it and could try it, I am not using 3D however.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have it and could try it, I am not using 3D however.



It does fix some hdmi issues so try it. 3D is not a requirement for that version.

John


----------



## wasteofmoney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/22039436
> 
> 
> If you have dvd's also, the D2 will handle converting 480i to 1080p extremely well. The D2 has an excellent video section, as you'll find out soon.
> 
> Tom



How does the D2 perform with a cable box overall? Any switching issues?


----------



## p.las

Can someone please explaine to me what graph/targetcurve ARC (sub Cut off) showing to me?

Is it only the LFE ?

Is it LFE and sub(redirectet bas)?


I having a hard time to find out what Cut off is the right choise for my setup. Mains and surround x - over is 80hz.


For sub Cut off i have tryed 80hz and 120hz . When i set it to 80hz i some movies there i a loss of energi. If i set it to 120hz sometimes it seames to be to much bass - especialy when it is Dolby digital. But also in bd movies


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/22041312
> 
> 
> So I moved into a new house, and have set up a projector screen setup with a new JVC projector. We are running a Key Digital cat6 balun about 75 feet, and I am having no problems with 1080p24, 1080i60, or 1080p50. (not that I use 1080p50 but I thought I would try it out.) With 1080p60 I get the green speckles. ...



75 feet is very long. You could try to move your D2 closer (for testing) to your projector and use a standard 6ft cable and also try your player directly into the projector. This should tell you right away if it is the cable, the D2, the projector or the player.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/22043243
> 
> 
> How does the D2 perform with a cable box overall? Any switching issues?



Possibly, possibly not.

My Dish dvr works fine using hdmi. Others here have had problems with some cable boxes using hdmi.

If you do have problems with switching using hdmi you can use component for video and coax or optical for audio. More cables, but more stable. Component/coax combo will handle 1080i and DD 5.1, which is usually the maximum quality that cable offers. The D2 will upscale to 1080p from component in to hdmi out with no problem.

You can also ask Anthem tech for the password to their beta downloads on their password protected website. There are beta firmwares for the D2, and many, including myself, have had much more stable switching using 1.47f firmware. Many are happy using 1.33. Both are stable firmwares, but 1.47f has made my hdmi switching quicker and more stable. YMMV.


Tom


EDIT--Let us know which cable box/provider you are using. If anyone here has had experience with that box they may be able to offer more accurate info.


----------



## wasteofmoney

Thanks Tom. I plan on using a Comcast HD Box.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/22044000
> 
> 
> Thanks Tom. I plan on using a Comcast HD Box.



Component works BEST with all DVR boxes.


TiVo works great with my D2 as does Sony DVRs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Comcast uses several different vintages of hardware for their boxes, so it depends a bit on your luck of the draw when they hand you a box. But I use HDMI for video from my Comcast HD/DVR into my D2v, and there are no problems. I would expect the situation with the D2 to be similar. (Some of the older Comcast HD hardware has known bugs -- i.e., the image they put out on the HDMI cable is just plain wrong, not even considering handshaking stuff. Use Component video from such boxes, i.e., if you spot a problem like that. Or go badger your Comcast office to give you a less broken model of box.)


I use "native" resolution from the Comcast box, which means the HDMI re-handshakes as the program content changes for 480i, 720p, and 1080i stations. This gets you the best looking video. But if HDMI handshakes bother you, you can tell the Comcast to always put out 1080i (and thus do the upscaling itself).


Or you can use Component video from the Comcast box and avoid HDMI altogether.


I use Optical Digital audio from the Comcast box simply because Comcast likes to do a 2-step HDMI handshake where they first do video and then do video plus audio. This means the audio doesn't start up until a couple seconds after the video. Using Optical for audio (which gets you exactly the same quality of audio given the type of programming Comcast puts on the cable), you typically end up with audio starting before the new video locks in, which I like better.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/22043243
> 
> 
> How does the D2 perform with a cable box overall? Any switching issues?



I have a Verizon FIOS DVR Cable Box, and I am using HDMI from the Cable Box to my D2, and I don't have any switching problems at all. Picture and sound are fantastic.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/22043363
> 
> 
> Can someone please explaine to me what graph/targetcurve ARC (sub Cut off) showing to me?
> 
> Is it only the LFE ?
> 
> Is it LFE and sub(redirectet bas)?
> 
> 
> I having a hard time to find out what Cut off is the right choise for my setup. Mains and surround x - over is 80hz.
> 
> 
> For sub Cut off i have tryed 80hz and 120hz . When i set it to 80hz i some movies there i a loss of energi. If i set it to 120hz sometimes it seames to be to much bass - especialy when it is Dolby digital. But also in bd movies



Why don't you post your 3 sets of charts?


1) The charts and Targets showing what ARC picked for you (no modifications at all for ANY values in Targets).


2) The charts and Targets showing your modified 80Hz configuration.


3) The charts and Targets showing your modified 120Hz configuration.


It sounds like you are forcing ARC into doing its best to try to do something your speakers can not do. That's why (1) is important to see as well.


The Sub Calculated curve shows the expected sub response for different frequencies (regardless of source). For LFE, the content goes up to about 120Hz and so the sub response up to that is important. For STEERED bass, if you are not steering high frequency bass to the sub, then its response up there is irrelevant. What's important is the Sub response from the crossover frequency of you OTHER speakers and below.


Now you also have to deal with the fact that some source content is just not mixed all that well. For example, they may have built in an artificial bass emphasis thinking that many listeners wouldn't have good bass response. So you have to decide what your standard is here when validating the ARC results. It can't possibly make ALL content sound good. Crappy recordings are still going to sound bad. In fact they may sound worse as the mistakes in recording or application of compression or whatever become MORE noticeable.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/22043243
> 
> 
> How does the D2 perform with a cable box overall? Any switching issues?



I had a few issues with my Moxi DVR but as said before, i set the DVR to output al content at 1080i for minimal problems and optical for audio. OTA, you could also try Component into the D2v and then HDMI out to your TV.


The video quality is identical, imo, as i couldn't tell the difference between the converted and un-converted video. This speaks very well to the D2's(v) Video ADC's. You get a pristine picture either way with no audio dropouts.


----------



## p.las

okay Bob.

this is what ARC come up whit.

the dips i have in the 100hz region, is my settings. i have a very small rum (3 x 4.5meters) and it is heavely treaded. But small rooms have issues.

so i can not relocate my subs and mains - there ar behind at screenwall.

i think thise settings arc come up whit sound to laidback and soft.


----------



## p.las

and this is my modefied 80hz Sub cut off


----------



## p.las

and last , my 120hz sub cut off.


my speakers are M&K mp 2510 aktive as front ( same as s150 pasive) - surrounds are M&K s150t.

and sub is two M&K mx350MK II - there are known for there good respons over 50hz.


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle* /forum/post/22043546
> 
> 
> 75 feet is very long. You could try to move your D2 closer (for testing) to your projector and use a standard 6ft cable and also try your player directly into the projector. This should tell you right away if it is the cable, the D2, the projector or the player.



That of course was the reason I went with the cat6 balun rather than HDMI. The wire goes out the side of the house, up and into a closet in the second story, and down into the ceiling where the projector is mounted. As I said, I would be willing to chalk it up to the balun except that running a 1080p60 source directly through the balun without the Anthem works with no problems.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

p.las,

Well I'm not surprised you have weak bass in the all 80Hz configuration. The reason ARC has set the 140Hz crossover to begin with is the deep dip in LF and also in C, with a lesser problem in RF.


Those are really nasty.


In the all 80Hz configuration you are severely under-corrected in C and also in LF in just the critical frequencies for bass impact. ARC won't push more than 6dB boost to a speaker to protect the amp and the speaker itself if that energy is just being consumed by, say, a room cancellation null.


C in particular is a problem because in many mixes the Center channel carries the brunt of critical bass -- the bass that the mixer wants people to be able to hear even if they have no subwoofer and thus won't hear LFE.


And of course the sub can't help because you've rolled it off starting from below the problem area.


-----------------------------------


In your 120Hz configuration you are STILL severely under-corrected in C and LF, although slightly less because you've also lowered the Room Gain.


What you need to understand is that proper bass output means that BOTH the main speaker and the subwoofer have to do their job at a given frequency. Since C and LF can't meet their assigned Target output through those frequencies the resulting solution has a hole. I.e., the sub isn't filling in enough. If ARC boosted the sub output to fill in for those two, it would be incorrect both for LFE and also for the other speakers.


Now, you say that with some discs you feel you are getting too much bass in the 120Hz configuration. I suspect that might be due to you not being used to what LFE sounds like when a sub is set to reproduce the high end of LFE. I.e., you are hearing real LFE in those tracks that you had not heard before. You might not LIKE that mix, but it is "real". In the 80Hz configuration you lose the top end of LFE output so you don't hear it.


But it's still not right even with the sub back up at 120Hz, because LF and C in particular can't contribute what they are supposed to contribute when forced to use an 80Hz crossover.


-------------------------------------


The bottom line here is that you really need to address the cause of those deep dips in Center and LF (and to a lesser extent in RF) either side of 100Hz.


-------------------------------------


ETA: In the original 140/120Hz configuration that ARC chose, I would expect problems with dialog being directed from C to the Sub, but it should not sound laid back or soft unless your sub is underperforming. I.e., the sub is being asked to carry a lot of the burden here and if it is "loud but not accurate" for example (a rather common style of sub design), that could be problem in bass region attacks.


Another thing that would be *VITAL* to the configuration ARC chose is that you make sure your Sub is set correctly for Phase and Polarity. If you are getting cancellation between the Sub and the fronts for example because the Sub is out of Phase than the results will be a mess because the sub is carrying the load so high up in frequency. "Soft" would certainly be the result, and "laid back" might even apply.


If you only have one Sub, you can correct its Phase and Polarity without having to re-Measure for ARC.


-----------------------------------------------


ETA 2: If you take a look at the 140/120Hz configuration you can see what ARC did. ARC realized that LF and C in particular could not be made to work through the dip region. It would take too much boost. But the Sub *COULD* be set to carry the entire load through there.


And so ARC set the high crossover for LF and C to ask them to do only what they were capable of doing given your room problem, and that meant the Sub would carry basically all of the bass for them. But ARC also had to push up the crossover for the other speakers as well to get a solution. I.e., it apparently couldn't BOTH blend bass for them and take over bass for LF and C. So it took over bass for EVERYTHING. This could be due to resource constraints or to the difficulty of doing room correction for the other speakers if they were allowed to reproduce bass themselves.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/22044263
> 
> 
> okay Bob.
> 
> this is what ARC come up whit.
> 
> the dips i have in the 100hz region, is my settings. i have a very small rum (3 x 4.5meters) and it is heavely treaded. But small rooms have issues.
> 
> so i can not relocate my subs and mains - there ar behind at screenwall.
> 
> i think thise settings arc come up whit sound to laidback and soft.



p.las, the dip at 100Hz sets your mains to cross at higher higher frequencies which, i believe, sets the sub to cross higher to cover the low end defiencies of the mains. Since you can't move the mains or my speaker, have you tried to remove some of the roome treatments around the mains and see if it imroves the huge dip at 100hz?


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22041387
> 
> 
> Ask Anthem for the beta version 2.14d. That may help.
> 
> John



I tried installing 2.14d and it failed twice. Going to try and reinstall 2.11 now


EDIT: now won't reinstall 2.11. Guess I am calling Anthem support tomorrow...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I tried installing 2.14d and it failed twice. Going to try and reinstall 2.11 now
> 
> 
> EDIT: now won't reinstall 2.11. Guess I am calling Anthem support tomorrow...



I thought that might happen since 2.14d seems to install ok. Reboot the computer, check the USB/serial adapter is secure. It should work. Reboot the Anthem by unplugging it. Leave off for 5 min.

John


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/22044925
> 
> 
> p.las, the dip at 100Hz sets your mains to cross at higher higher frequencies which, i believe, sets the sub to cross higher to cover the low end defiencies of the mains. Since you can't move the mains or my speaker, have you tried to remove some of the roome treatments around the mains and see if it imroves the huge dip at 100hz?



i can not move the treatments. they are built in to the walls. i am just so unlucky that my primary seat have a null.

when i quick meassure, i can clearly see the dips. but if i move the mic one ore two feed to the left/right ore forward, the dips dessepear.

in the frontend off the room, i have 100mm arbsorbent. in the back of the room i got diffuseres. bastraps in the podie. And slam arbsorbent on the sidewalls. All hidden by panels.

from what i can see - the distance from seating to sidewalls and backwall is the same. but i only have 10feed to my screenwall, so i can not move the seats forward - damn


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22044897
> 
> 
> p.las,
> 
> Well I'm not surprised you have weak bass in the all 80Hz configuration. The reason ARC has set the 140Hz crossover to begin with is the deep dip in LF and also in C, with a lesser problem in RF.
> 
> 
> Those are really nasty.
> 
> 
> In the all 80Hz configuration you are severely under-corrected in C and also in LF in just the critical frequencies for bass impact. ARC won't push more than 6dB boost to a speaker to protect the amp and the speaker itself if that energy is just being consumed by, say, a room cancellation null.
> 
> 
> C in particular is a problem because in many mixes the Center channel carries the brunt of critical bass -- the bass that the mixer wants people to be able to hear even if they have no subwoofer and thus won't hear LFE.
> 
> 
> And of course the sub can't help because you've rolled it off starting from below the problem area.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 
> 
> In your 120Hz configuration you are STILL severely under-corrected in C and LF, although slightly less because you've also lowered the Room Gain.
> 
> 
> What you need to understand is that proper bass output means that BOTH the main speaker and the subwoofer have to do their job at a given frequency. Since C and LF can't meet their assigned Target output through those frequencies the resulting solution has a hole. I.e., the sub isn't filling in enough. If ARC boosted the sub output to fill in for those two, it would be incorrect both for LFE and also for the other speakers.
> 
> 
> Now, you say that with some discs you feel you are getting too much bass in the 120Hz configuration. I suspect that might be due to you not being used to what LFE sounds like when a sub is set to reproduce the high end of LFE. I.e., you are hearing real LFE in those tracks that you had not heard before. You might not LIKE that mix, but it is "real". In the 80Hz configuration you lose the top end of LFE output so you don't hear it.
> 
> 
> But it's still not right even with the sub back up at 120Hz, because LF and C in particular can't contribute what they are supposed to contribute when forced to use an 80Hz crossover.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> The bottom line here is that you really need to address the cause of those deep dips in Center and LF (and to a lesser extent in RF) either side of 100Hz.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA: In the original 140/120Hz configuration that ARC chose, I would expect problems with dialog being directed from C to the Sub, but it should not sound laid back or soft unless your sub is underperforming. I.e., the sub is being asked to carry a lot of the burden here and if it is "loud but not accurate" for example (a rather common style of sub design), that could be problem in bass region attacks.
> 
> 
> Another thing that would be *VITAL* to the configuration ARC chose is that you make sure your Sub is set correctly for Phase and Polarity. If you are getting cancellation between the Sub and the fronts for example because the Sub is out of Phase than the results will be a mess because the sub is carrying the load so high up in frequency. "Soft" would certainly be the result, and "laid back" might even apply.
> 
> 
> If you only have one Sub, you can correct its Phase and Polarity without having to re-Measure for ARC.
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> ETA 2: If you take a look at the 140/120Hz configuration you can see what ARC did. ARC realized that LF and C in particular could not be made to work through the dip region. It would take too much boost. But the Sub *COULD* be set to carry the entire load through there.
> 
> 
> And so ARC set the high crossover for LF and C to ask them to do only what they were capable of doing given your room problem, and that meant the Sub would carry basically all of the bass for them. But ARC also had to push up the crossover for the other speakers as well to get a solution. I.e., it apparently couldn't BOTH blend bass for them and take over bass for LF and C. So it took over bass for EVERYTHING. This could be due to resource constraints or to the difficulty of doing room correction for the other speakers if they were allowed to reproduce bass themselves.
> 
> --Bob



thanks for the evelation.

i have two subs and there are both in the right phase.

i shout have a big headroom with the two subs for my small room.

and the sound from the system is good - very tight bass.

but clearly there is a problem.

i just dont't now how to solve it


edit - so you think that i "only" have to solve the dips in the mains........the subs isent so critical?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Let me check one simple mistake to start. When using ARC you must set your speaker configuration to "1 sub", even though you actually have 2.


Next, get the AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, and load up ARC's original solution (140/120). Then play the Crossover test from that disc. That will send a tone to Left Front that sweeps back and forth across the crossover frequency range. The high frequency end of that will come exclusively from Left Front. The low frequency end will come just from your subs due to the action of the Crossover for Left Front. If your 2 subs really are in phase, and ARC has properly corrected your room, the volume of that test tone should be constant across the entire frequency range of the sweep (except that your ears will likely have trouble hearing the lowest bass end of that).


Note, this won't work in either of your modified configurations for ARC due to the hole in the LF response around 100Hz.


If you DON'T get constant volume, you likely need to recheck how you set Polarity and Phase for your subs. The Measured curve for your pair of subs looks clean, which suggests they are indeed in Phase with each other, but they might still be out of Phase with Left Front.


Next use the Speaker Phase test on AIX to double check that all your main speakers are wired with the correct polarity compared to what's working for Left Front as confirmed by the Crossover test.


Also as a reminder you must have your speaker distances all set before you can do Sub Phase checks.


Start here so we can eliminate simple setup errors first.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

What I think is you can't use 80Hz crossovers for the mains while those dips are still there.


Let's see what you get with the checks above first (using the original ARC solution).


Then we can try lowering the crossover for the mains below the 140Hz picked by ARC, but not as far as the 80Hz you tried -- and with the subs left at 120Hz.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22045825
> 
> 
> What I think is you can't use 80Hz crossovers for the mains while those dips are still there.
> 
> 
> Let's see what you get with the checks above first (using the original ARC solution).
> 
> 
> Then we can try lowering the crossover for the mains below the 140Hz picked by ARC, but not as far as the 80Hz you tried -- and with the subs left at 120Hz.
> 
> --Bob



i have set the sub for 1.

i am using a seperet Sub EQ ( svs a1) to ping the subs together.

and i have set the distance before meassuring.

i will try my AIX dics regards sveepe.

all my speakers is inn phase. In fact AIX help me to solve a problem on that matter. My frontspeakers are active, my surrounds aren't. to run these speakers i'am using JBL Amplifirers -pro units. i just didn't know that JBL pro gear was plaing inverted Phase  i know that now ;-)

and thank's for you time


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've not used the SVS EQ, so I'm not sure what you can do with it. But if it is only sending test tones to the two subs -- i.e., no tone to LF or any other main speaker -- then all it can do is help get the two subs in phase with each other. The pair of subs might still be out of phase with the mains.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22046018
> 
> 
> I've not used the SVS EQ, so I'm not sure what you can do with it. But if it is only sending test tones to the two subs -- i.e., no tone to LF or any other main speaker -- then all it can do is help get the two subs in phase with each other. The pair of subs might still be out of phase with the mains.
> 
> --Bob



it is a Auddesey thing. it will ping the two subs together. its also sending pink noise ( i think its pink noise) out of the left frontspeaker - so the phase shout bee right.


i have just spoken to my acustikker. he said that it is a null. All standing waves and nulls, is a consequens of rum dimension. there is not much to do with the room - but he said that i shout try to take some big plades and but one up agianst the one sidewall, whit a little bit angel- and then messuere ,to see what happens. a angel wall shout eliminete standing waves and nulls.


but i will try to use ARC recomendations , and hear what happens.


----------



## dlynch34

3d kits for d2v. Is this available and if so is this user installed and for how much is the upgrade?



Thanks


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34* /forum/post/22046788
> 
> 
> 3d kits for d2v. Is this available and if so is this user installed and for how much is the upgrade?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



Not available yet and don't hold your breath. I bought a D2v in September 2010 that included the upgrade. When I got my unit HDMI ports 1-4 were inoperative. I thought that I would just wait for the upgrade that was "right around the corner" and almost two years have past........


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Not available yet and don't hold your breath. I bought a D2v in September 2010 that included the upgrade. When I got my unit HDMI ports 1-4 were inoperative. I thought that I would just wait for the upgrade that was "right around the corner" and almost two years have past........



Do they work now?

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/22045244
> 
> 
> I tried installing 2.14d and it failed twice. Going to try and reinstall 2.11 now
> 
> 
> EDIT: now won't reinstall 2.11. Guess I am calling Anthem support tomorrow...



Oh yeah ...mine (and another poster Simon10) failed as well about 2 weeks ago. We ended up getting programming kits suggested by Anthem to reprogram the Atmel micro-controller (they sned you all the instructions and programming files). Then we had to upload the new FW which it did successfully. The process was very easy and painless. you might want to look into it if you don't want to send your unit back to Anthem for them to do the same thing.


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/22047264
> 
> 
> Oh yeah ...mine (and another poster Simon10) failed as well about 2 weeks ago. We ended up getting programming kits suggested by Anthem to reprogram the Atmel micro-controller (they sned you q all the instructions and programming files). Then we had to upload the new FW which it did successfully. The process was very easy and painless. you might want to look into it if you don't want to send your unit back to Anthem for them to do the same thing.



Thanks for the info. The good news is that unplugging the unit for a while seems to have done the trick, I was able to reinstall 2.11 this morning. Whew!


Not I just have to look into my 1080p60 problem


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. The good news is that unplugging the unit for a while seems to have done the trick, I was able to reinstall 2.11 this morning. Whew!
> 
> 
> Not I just have to look into my 1080p60 problem



Glad it worked.

John


----------



## p.las

Hello Bob.


I have now chekked the cross over on aix test disc. And i having a hard time to hear any difference 140/120 vs 80/120. It dosens Sound like somthing is missing.

I also have tryed on film. The difference is in some Way small - there is a tab more bass on the 140/120 vs 80/120. But there is more attack on 80/120 vs 140/120. Tings that my speakers i known for. It was getting late so i have not played very loud ........- 14db


----------



## wasteofmoney

Has anyone tried out headphones with the D2? I have a pair of Sennheiser HD 650's and was just curious how they might sound with home theatre, and music. I'm assuming the audiophile grade DAC in the D2 splits off to the headphone output in additon to the other analog outputs


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/22048411
> 
> 
> Hello Bob.
> 
> 
> I have now chekked the cross over on aix test disc. And i having a hard time to hear any difference 140/120 vs 80/120. It dosens Sound like somthing is missing.
> 
> I also have tryed on film. The difference is in some Way small - there is a tab more bass on the 140/120 vs 80/120. But there is more attack on 80/120 vs 140/120. Tings that my speakers i known for. It was getting late so i have not played very loud ........- 14db



OK, then it sounds like your sub Phase is good, as you thought.


Now, the next step is to see how far you can lower main speaker crossovers below 140 before you start running into trouble. I notice you also lowered Room Gain, which will also help reduce the impact of those dips and give you more room to lower main speaker crossovers.


As an experiment, start with just adjusting Center. Leave the Sub at 120. See if you can get Center down to at least 100 before the residual error through the dip exceeds 2dB below Target. That will be crucial to keep dialog out of the Sub.


Next see how far you can go down with LF/RF. Only go as far as you can before the residual error starts showing in the dip in LF.


We already know that 80Hz is too low. So the answer will be somewhere between 80 and 140. NOTE: You do *NOT* have to have all the speakers set to the same crossover. Adjust each according to its own capabilities.


Finally you can lower the Surrounds which should give you no problems.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/22048585
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried out headphones with the D2? I have a pair of Sennheiser HD 650's and was just curious how they might sound with home theatre, and music. I'm assuming the audiophile grade DAC in the D2 splits off to the headphone output in additon to the other analog outputs



Headphones will sound best if you play stereo content. Down-mixing multi-channel movie tracks to stereo will be OK but not great.

--Bob


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22047019
> 
> 
> Do they work now?
> 
> John



No.


I have been getting by with the other four because I figured as soon as I pulled it out and sent it back to get fixed the update would come out. I do need two more HDMI connections but, I'm using component video and Toslink audio in the mean time.


I'm not one to complain about slow updates. I've been on the update train since the very early HD-DVD days but, this one has really frustrated me. I mean two frik'n years? Geesh.....


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> 
> 
> I have been getting by with the other four because I figured as soon as I pulled it out and sent it back to get fixed the update would come out. I do need two more HDMI connections but, I'm using component video and Toslink audio in the mean time.
> 
> 
> I'm not one to complain about slow updates. I've been on the update train since the very early HD-DVD days but, this one has really frustrated me. I mean two frik'n years? Geesh.....



It is quite easy to install that daughter board. You should have called Anthem and they would have sent one out to you. Did you ever contact them?

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It wouldn't surprise me if the problem with HDMI inputs 1-4 is simply that the current daughter board in there has come loose -- i.e., isn't properly seated.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^ It wouldn't surprise me if the problem with HDMI inputs 1-4 is simply that the current daughter board in there has come loose -- i.e., isn't properly seated.
> 
> --Bob



That has occurred a number of times so it wouldn't surprise me as well. If I called Anthem I suspect they would have told me the same.

John


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22048694
> 
> 
> OK, then it sounds like your sub Phase is good, as you thought.
> 
> 
> Now, the next step is to see how far you can lower main speaker crossovers below 140 before you start running into trouble. I notice you also lowered Room Gain, which will also help reduce the impact of those dips and give you more room to lower main speaker crossovers.
> 
> 
> As an experiment, start with just adjusting Center. Leave the Sub at 120. See if you can get Center down to at least 100 before the residual error through the dip exceeds 2dB below Target. That will be crucial to keep dialog out of the Sub.
> 
> 
> Next see how far you can go down with LF/RF. Only go as far as you can before the residual error starts showing in the dip in LF.
> 
> 
> We already know that 80Hz is too low. So the answer will be somewhere between 80 and 140. NOTE: You do *NOT* have to have all the speakers set to the same crossover. Adjust each according to its own capabilities.
> 
> 
> Finally you can lower the Surrounds which should give you no problems.
> 
> --Bob



regards room gain. i always end up with gain 2 - 2.2. shal i leave it on the calculated gain 3.3 ? or shout i lower it?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> regards room gain. i always end up with gain 2 - 2.2. shal i leave it on the calculated gain 3.3 ? or shout i lower it?



Given the severe dips, I'm surprised ARC isn't getting confused and deciding you have NO Room Gain. It may be they are just high enough in frequency that ARC is instead seeing the rise at lower frequencies as higher Room Gain.


In the ARC solution, the high (140) crossover for the speakers means Room Gain doesn't affect those. It only lifts the sub. If you really can lower the crossover for the speakers then Room Gain will lift their lower bass. You'll see this as a lift in their Target curves at lower frequencies (but above the crossover).


Now as for what to choose, lowering the Room Gain will mean less boost needed in those dips, and so you'll be able to use a lower crossover. But try to keep at least 2dB of Room Gain. Higher Room Gain, say 3 or 3.5, will make bass sound fuller but is pointless if that means the dips are not corrected.


(It is "normal" for the "real" Room Gain to be low in a large room or a room with lots of bass treatments. But if you can keep at least 2dB of Room Gain then it should sound fine. I tend to prefer somewhat more Room Gain -- perhaps 0.5 to 1.0 dB more -- in the Movie solution, which I also use for multi-channel music, then in the Music solution I only use for stereo music content.)


So I suspect you will HAVE TO lower Room Gain to have any chance of lowering the crossovers for the speakers at all while still correcting those dips.


If you can't fix the room or move the speakers, finding Targets that correct those dips (at lower crossover) has to be your priority.


--------------------------------


If like me you use your Music solution only for playing stereo music content -- whether or not you use something like PLIIx-Music to raise that into the surround speakers, then you should seriously consider excluding the Center speaker from the Music solution.


Do that by putting "n" (for "no speaker" in the ARC Targets Cutoff value for Center in just the Music column.


That means you wont have to solve the dip for Center in the Music solution, and can concentrate on solving the dip in LF.


Even folks without problems in Center like to do this to "improve the front sound stage" even when using the surrounds during playback of stereo content.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22050329
> 
> 
> Given the severe dips, I'm surprised ARC isn't getting confused and deciding you have NO Room Gain. It may be they are just high enough in frequency that ARC is instead seeing the rise at lower frequencies as higher Room Gain.
> 
> 
> In the ARC solution, the high (140) crossover for the speakers means Room Gain doesn't affect those. It only lifts the sub. If you really can lower the crossover for the speakers then Room Gain will lift their lower bass. You'll see this as a lift in their Target curves at lower frequencies (but above the crossover).
> 
> 
> Now as for what to choose, lowering the Room Gain will mean less boost needed in those dips, and so you'll be able to use a lower crossover. But try to keep at least 2dB of Room Gain. Higher Room Gain, say 3 or 3.5, will make bass sound fuller but is pointless if that means the dips are not corrected.
> 
> 
> (It is "normal" for the "real" Room Gain to be low in a large room or a room with lots of bass treatments. But if you can keep at least 2dB of Room Gain then it should sound fine. I tend to prefer somewhat more Room Gain -- perhaps 0.5 to 1.0 dB more -- in the Movie solution, which I also use for multi-channel music, then in the Music solution I only use for stereo music content.)
> 
> 
> So I suspect you will HAVE TO lower Room Gain to have any chance of lowering the crossovers for the speakers at all while still correcting those dips.
> 
> 
> If you can't fix the room or move the speakers, finding Targets that correct those dips (at lower crossover) has to be your priority.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------
> 
> 
> If like me you use your Music solution only for playing stereo music content -- whether or not you use something like PLIIx-Music to raise that into the surround speakers, then you should seriously consider excluding the Center speaker from the Music solution.
> 
> 
> Do that by putting "n" (for "no speaker" in the ARC Targets Cutoff value for Center in just the Music column.
> 
> 
> That means you wont have to solve the dip for Center in the Music solution, and can concentrate on solving the dip in LF.
> 
> 
> Even folks without problems in Center like to do this to "improve the front sound stage" even when using the surrounds during playback of stereo content.
> 
> --Bob



regards the high room gain and front speakers dip. first time i was setting my system up with ARC ther was only the 3 front and the two subs - no surrounds. ARC roomgain was 0db . then i intalled the side surrounds. ARC roomgain was then 2.8.

2 month after i intalled the surround back - ARC roomgain was then 3.3db.


the thing i will do is to set the roomgain to 2.2 and then lower the cross over , just about to the point when i hit the 2 db limit - isent that the way to do it?


i hope that you are better to read my english, than i am to right it


----------



## manutdsoc20

Hello,


I'm wanting to know if anyone in thread has AVM50v connected to a HTPC.


I have had an AVM50 for years and am very familiar with Anthem products, setting up and updating firmware.


When I had the AVM50- I used a ATI 4670 with 10.8-11.4 catalyst driver and the Realtek HDMI audio drivers and recently an Intel HD3000 for graphics and HDMI audio.


I never really had any problems other than with the Intel HD3000 I could not playback DTS MA 7.1 discrete tracks.


I just recently recieved my AVM50V and I'm in the early stages of testing it out with my HTPC.


I was having problems playing back DVD's and I would just be kicked out of the movie and back to Media Browser. To me the AVM50V is having problems locking on the audio. I played back I Robot on Blu Ray and that seemed to play fine. I will test more tonight on DVD and Blu Ray playback.


Anthem AVM50V is on 2.11 firmware. I will be updating it tonight to 2.14d



My current Setup:

HTPC-AVM50V-Sony VPL-VW100

Intel I5(HD3000) Latest Intel Video and Audio Drivers

Windows 7 32 Bit

Media Browser 2.53

Arcsoft TMT 5 version 5.120


If anyone has a specific known working setup please describe the hardware used( Intel, AMD, Nvidia) and drivers used.



Thanks in advance for everyone's help.


Cheers Jason


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/22050486
> 
> 
> regards the high room gain and front speakers dip. first time i was setting my system up with ARC ther was only the 3 front and the two subs - no surrounds. ARC roomgain was 0db . then i intalled the side surrounds. ARC roomgain was then 2.8.
> 
> 2 month after i intalled the surround back - ARC roomgain was then 3.3db.
> 
> 
> the thing i will do is to set the roomgain to 2.2 and then lower the cross over , just about to the point when i hit the 2 db limit - isent that the way to do it?
> 
> 
> i hope that you are better to read my english, than i am to right it



Experiments like this take no time at all since you are just recalculating the charts. I suggest you start by seeing how low you can go with Crossover using the Room Gain ARC found.


And THEN lower the Room Gain to, for example, 2.2, and see how much LOWER (if any) you can go with Crossover.


Again keep in mind that it's OK to have different crossover values for the different speakers. Keep the sub at 120 while doing all this.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22052677
> 
> 
> Experiments like this take no time at all since you are just recalculating the charts. I suggest you start by seeing how low you can go with Crossover using the Room Gain ARC found.
> 
> 
> And THEN lower the Room Gain to, for example, 2.2, and see how much LOWER (if any) you can go with Crossover.
> 
> 
> Again keep in mind that it's OK to have different crossover values for the different speakers. Keep the sub at 120 while doing all this.
> 
> --Bob



yes - ARC is very user friendley.


when i listen to the 80/120 setup vs 140/120 ARC it dosen't seam's to be much off a difference regards bas. that is surpricing when i look at the graphs. the graphs indicating that there shout be som lack off bass in the 80/120 vs 140/120 - but there aint


----------



## cougar75

I have an Anthem AVM50v. When I power off my system I get a low level pop from my speakers. Anyone have an idea on what might be causing this?


----------



## dkojevnikov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75* /forum/post/22055331
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem AVM50v. When I power off my system I get a low level pop from my speakers. Anyone have an idea on what might be causing this?



Not a big deal if it is a low level. In most cases it is amplifier which does this pop.


----------



## rovingtravler

I get a similar pop it is due to my amps turning off after the AVM.


----------



## dmusoke

I also get the pop when i turn off my D2v and it can be loud if the prior volume was load. This is the first pre-pro that i've had with such an audible turn-off pop. I wish there was a way to reduce/eliminate the pop


----------



## nrwatson

Is there away to toggle through the different surround options if so is there an rs 232 code thanks Neale


----------



## wasteofmoney

I'm looking to keep my Bryston 2Ch Pre-amp and hook it up inline with the D2. I know the Bryston doesn't have HT bypass. Just wodering if the D2 can be adjusted to do this


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/22057408
> 
> 
> I'm looking to keep my Bryston 2Ch Pre-amp and hook it up inline with the D2. I know the Bryston doesn't have HT bypass. Just wodering if the D2 can be adjusted to do this



waste of money


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson* /forum/post/22056745
> 
> 
> Is there away to toggle through the different surround options if so is there an rs 232 code thanks Neale



The RS-232 control codes can do *ANYTHING*. They are complete beyond all belief. The documentation is found in a spreadsheet included in the ARC 3.0.2 install kit download.


As it turns out, you can even do direct selection of the Audio Surround Modes appropriate for each type of audio input using the IR remote control commands. These are done using 3 key combos (which could be programmed as "macros" in a programmable remote). See Appendix A in the Manual for the details.

--Bob


----------



## wasteofmoney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/22057426
> 
> 
> waste of money



Life is a waste of money










Seriously though, I wanted to be able to toggle back and forth between the D2 and Bryston (without switching the wires around) to see if one sounds better in 2ch than the other. I may eventually settle for one of them.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Life is a waste of money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously though, I wanted to be able to toggle back and forth between the D2 and Bryston (without switching the wires around) to see if one sounds better in 2ch than the other. I may eventually settle for one of them.



Why would you want to forgo ARC? There is little chance the Bryston would sound better. My music is played in stereo and it sounds fantastic. The D2 is an excellent 2ch device when needed to do this. Enjoy.

John


----------



## wasteofmoney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22057706
> 
> 
> Why would you want to forgo ARC?



I think this would be doable without foregoing the ARC if you're just allowing a certain device to pe a pass-through.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22057706
> 
> 
> There is little chance the Bryston would sound better0



Possible, but according to most stereo guys a dedicated analog pre-amp always wins against a pre-pro. I have to make my own conclusions.

The D2 will be at my doorstep in two days.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I think this would be doable without foregoing the ARC if you're just allowing a certain device to pe a pass-through.
> 
> 
> Possible, but according to most stereo guys a dedicated analog pre-amp always wins against a pre-pro. I have to make my own conclusions.
> 
> The D2 will be at my doorstep in two days.



The old analog vs digital argument is wishful thinking. I tried that with my Arcam player into my D2v using Analog In. Then tried it digitally in with ARC and there was no contest. You should read the "The Ten biggest lies in Audio". it's time to end that myth now. Don't waste your money









John


----------



## wasteofmoney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22058068
> 
> 
> The old analog vs digital argument is wishful thinking. I tried that with my Arcam player into my D2v using Analog In. Then tried it digitally in with ARC and there was no contest.John



So I guess the D2/ARC can do wonders as far as correcting/equalizing the main apeakers for 2ch listening?


With your Arcam experiment, i'm a little confused as to what DAC was used here. I'm assuming the Arcam. Do the D2 XLR analog inputs travel through the Anthem DAC circuit before going out to the mains?


----------



## wasteofmoney

I'm reading some reviews on the D2v just for craps and giggles, and was wondering if the statement below is just marketing hype. How much distinguishable video improvement does the VXP processor offer for a blu-ray?

Can you D2v owners honestly tell the difference?






Well aware of these trends, Anthem (which is a division of Paradigm Electronics) has created what is in essence a next-generation D2 controller, called the D2V. The D2V addresses all of the requirements we outlined above.


Specifically, the D2V provides:


1) Eight HDMI inputs instead of four, with two HDMI outputs.


2) An updated VXP digital image processor said to provide professional-grade, fully adaptive deinterlacing, adaptive 3D noise reduction, mosquito noise reduction, block artifact reductions, adaptive detail enhancement featuring sharpness and texture enhancement with overshoot control, and adaptive contrast enhancement.


3) Two dual-core DSP engines delivering a combined 800 MIPS (million instructions per second) of processing power, provide onboard decoding for Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD Master audio, plus support for 24-bit/192kHZ PCM audio inputs for up to 7.1 channels.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> So I guess the D2/ARC can do wonders as far as correcting/equalizing the main apeakers for 2ch listening?
> 
> 
> With your Arcam experiment, i'm a little confused as to what DAC was used here. I'm assuming the Arcam. Do the D2 XLR analog inputs travel through the Anthem DAC circuit before going out to the mains?



ARC can do exactly that. Take the measurements for say a 5.1 system and then set for music a two speaker configuration. This will give you a great stereo experience. It has been stated here many times that ARC will trump any differences between DACs.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22058163
> 
> 
> ARC can do exactly that. Take the measurements for say a 5.1 system and then set for music a two speaker configuration. This will give you a great stereo experience. It has been stated here many times that ARC will trump any differences between DACs.
> 
> John



Not 100% true. The D2v is good but there are better DACS.

The D2v using Analog-DIG and ARC is no comparison listing to stereo using Analog Direct and my Weiss DAC 202.


Waste of Money


You can play your music using Analog Direct which bypasses everything except the D2 volume control. Anthem claims their volume control is not digital and has no effect on the sound.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Not 100% true. The D2v is good but there are better DACS.
> 
> The D2v using Analog-DIG and ARC is no comparison listing to stereo using Analog Direct and my Weiss DAC 202.
> 
> 
> Waste of Money
> 
> 
> You can play your music using Analog Direct which bypasses everything except the D2 volume control. Anthem claims their volume control is not digital and has no effect on the sound.



ARC will make more of a difference than DACs. To bypass ARC makes no sense to me since the the room issues are, in most cases, the most important factor. Use Analog DSP to use ARC. Try both and see what you think.

John


----------



## wasteofmoney

thestewman


That's actually the feature I was looking for. My pre-amp is a Bryston BP25DA (Integrated DAC) which gets it music source (streamed FLAC) from a networked Server > Squeezebox Touch (digital coax out).

Just to clarify, if I connect from the BP25 XLR out to the D2 XLR analog in, I would just set the D2 to Analog Direct and leave both the pre-amp and D2 powered on. I would assume it's best to have the D2 knob turned up to 100% and use the Bryston volume control for music? And when I want to watch movies I just turn off the Bryston just like you would a CD player, phono or any other source.


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/22058315
> 
> 
> thestewman
> 
> 
> That's actually the feature I was looking for. My pre-amp is a Bryston BP25DA (Integrated DAC) which gets it music source (streamed FLAC) from a networked Server > Squeezebox Touch (digital coax out).
> 
> Just to clarify, if I connect from the BP25 XLR out to the D2 XLR analog in, I would just set the D2 to Analog Direct and leave both the pre-amp and D2 powered on. I would assume it's best to have the D2 knob turned up to 100% and use the Bryston volume control for music? And when I want to watch movies I just turn off the Bryston just like you would a CD player, phono or any other source.



Do not do this. Analogue Direct is not a HT Pass Thru. It is simply a mode where the D2 turns off its digital front end and acts like a conventional analogue pre-amp. The volume is still active and you will be applying gain to the signal in the D2, not to mention that your other pre-amp will be applying gain and you could get to a point where the signal is too high.


Also, you are adding the noise floor of both devices.


If your Bryson does not have a HT Bypass mode, you are kind of stuck switching wires to do your A-B test.


As a person with a PSA GCA-250 and PW-DAC, I can tell you that this combination can sound so much better than my AVM-50 w/ arc in the right environment...


Not willing to give them up, or the AVM-50. Both have a place in my home...


----------



## wasteofmoney

Thats what I discovered after I just researched. The D2 adds boost like any pre-amp.


----------



## p.las

okay Bob. What do you say to these graph. i have not lisent to these setup yet.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/22059398
> 
> 
> Thats what I discovered after I just researched. The D2 adds boost like any pre-amp.



In Theory you have the 2nd Best Pre-Pro on the planet.


Only the D2v is #1.


JUST USE IT.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/22059400
> 
> 
> okay Bob. What do you say to these graph. i have not lisent to these setup yet.



Getting pretty close -- given that you have to live with those dips.


The residual error in Center is fine at 110Hz. I'd like to get its crossover closer to 100Hz, but you are right on the edge of being under-corrected now. You might try lowering it from 110Hz to 105Hz just to see how much wore the residual error gets through that dip. The idea is to minimize the amount of male dialog that gets shifted over into the subwoofers.


As for LF/RF, I suggest you raise the crossover a bit more for LF/RF as you've still got about 6dB error uncorrected in that dip for LF. Try 120Hz or 125Hz for LF/RF leaving all the other stuff as is.

--Bob


----------



## wasteofmoney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/22059423
> 
> 
> In Theory you have the 2nd Best Pre-Pro on the planet.
> 
> 
> Only the D2v is #1.
> 
> 
> JUST USE IT.



That's what I figured too. I got the D2 wARC for 2K. I just seen a Bryston BP25DA like mine sell on Ebay for $1500. It can almost pay for the D2.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/22059713
> 
> 
> That's what I figured too. I got the D2 wARC for 2K. I just seen a Bryston BP25DA like mine sell on Ebay for $1500. It can almost pay for the D2.



Anthem D2 ot D2v with ARC is way better than OLD Analog Technology.


Enjoy it and sell the Bryston Pre-Pro.


----------



## dmusoke

I want the D2v to trigger my MCH power amplifier using the 12V triggers. What kind of cable do i need and where can i get one?


Thanks,

David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ At the D2v end you need a cable with two wires and a Mono Mini-jack (NOT a Stereo mini-jack). That's pretty typical for amps as well, but you'll need to check the manual for your Amp. Some just take bare leads into a spring connector for example. You don't need anything fancy as far as the cable. It needn't even be shielded. The cheaper the better.


You can easily find short length Mono cables with a mini-jack at either end at places that sell memo recorders like Radio Shack. The trick is finding a longer length. Typically the easiest thing to do is get the short length and cut it in half. Now you've got two pieces with a jack at one end and bare wire at the other. Extend that to whatever length you need with any type of 2-wire cable. Once you expose the leads at the two cut ends you can use those little plastic twist on caps to join the two exposed leads to the ends of your longer wire.


See the Specifications pages at the back of the Manual for the polarity. (Tip is positive and Sleeve is ground.)


If you have any trouble getting it to work, check that the mini-jack really is fully inserted in the socket. They can be a bit stiff to insert.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22060427
> 
> 
> ^ At the D2v end you need a cable with two wires and a Mono Mini-jack (NOT a Stereo mini-jack). That's pretty typical for amps as well, but you'll need to check the manual for your Amp. Some just take bare leads into a spring connector for example. You don't need anything fancy as far as the cable. It needn't even be shielded. The cheaper the better.
> 
> 
> You can easily find short length Mono cables with a mini-jack at either end at places that sell memo recorders like Radio Shack. The trick is finding a longer length. Typically the easiest thing to do is get the short length and cut it in half. Now you've got two pieces with a jack at one end and bare wire at the other. Extend that to whatever length you need with any type of 2-wire cable. Once you expose the leads at the two cut ends you can use those little plastic twist on caps to join the two exposed leads to the ends of your longer wire.
> 
> 
> See the Specifications pages at the back of the Manual for the polarity. (Tip is positive and Sleeve is ground.)
> 
> 
> If you have any trouble getting it to work, check that the mini-jack really is fully inserted in the socket. They can be a bit stiff to insert.
> 
> --Bob



Cool ...thx Bob! So what setting do i have in the Anthem within the Trigger/IR/RS232 menu option? The "All Triggers" options are Disabled, Enabled and RS232.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22060427
> 
> 
> ^ At the D2v end you need a cable with two wires and a Mono Mini-jack (NOT a Stereo mini-jack).



All you need is a mono jack, but it will still work with a stereo jack, right?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There have been mixed reports. Not clear if people were using the wrong wires or what.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Cool ...thx Bob! So what setting do i have in the Anthem within the Trigger/IR/RS232 menu option? The "All Triggers" options are Disabled, Enabled and RS232.



Use Enabled if you are going to use the Table offered in there for which events turn on which Triggers. See the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22060652
> 
> 
> Use Enabled if you are going to use the Table offered in there for which events turn on which Triggers. See the Manual.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks again Bob!


----------



## AVfile

I was able to get a 6' generic mono cable at a local stereo & tv shop. They had longer too, but not shorter.


----------



## AVfile

However it was not the solution to the annoying clicks I get in the speakers when turning off the preamp and A5. Still room for Anthem to improve on these products compared to some other brands.


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> However it was not the solution to the annoying clicks I get in the speakers when turning off the preamp and A5. Still room for Anthem to improve on these products compared to some other brands.



I get a slight pop when my B&K five channel amp powers down, but not with my 2 channel parasound, so it might be an an amp only thing.


----------



## AVfile

Sorry there is no noise if I only turn off the amp. The pops are coming from the pre and the trigger cannot turn off the amp in time (plus it must still be energized). Both are Anthem, connected by balanced cables.


I think the trigger shortens the pop to a click, but it does not mute the amp.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Try Muting the D2v before you turn things off. If that doesn't do it, then check to see if you have a power problem -- that is, amp and D2v at a different ground potential. This is easy to have if the amp has a dedicated power circuit.


For example, if you have two 20-amp breakers in the box one on top of the other then they are connected to either side of your 3-phase power coming into that box, which means the odds are good they are at different ground potential.


That's easy to fix by moving one of those breakers so they are both drawing from the same side.

--Bob


----------



## wasteofmoney

Just took delivery on my used D2 today. Overall in great cosmetic condition (one nick on front top ear corner). After inspecting the unit I noticed that the video board is gray. Not sure if it's older, or newer than the red board discussed a while back in this thread. Firmware has been updated to 1.33. I just got a chance to power it on and noticed that the main display is slightly dim (even in the dark) with the characters sort of lacking fullness. Is this common?


Not sure if the video board is going to be an issue, or if I should even bother addressing the display issue. I paid around $2000.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just took delivery on my used D2 today. Overall in great cosmetic condition (one nick on front top ear corner). After inspecting the unit I noticed that the video board is gray. Not sure if it's older, or newer than the red board discussed a while back in this thread. Firmware has been updated to 1.33. I just got a chance to power it on and noticed that the main display is slightly dim (even in the dark) with the characters sort of lacking fullness. Is this common?
> 
> 
> Not sure if the video board is going to be an issue, or if I should even bother addressing the display issue. I paid around $2000.



Maybe the display was set to dim by the previous owner.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/22065933
> 
> 
> Just took delivery on my used D2 today. Overall in great cosmetic condition (one nick on front top ear corner). After inspecting the unit I noticed that the video board is gray. Not sure if it's older, or newer than the red board discussed a while back in this thread. Firmware has been updated to 1.33. I just got a chance to power it on and noticed that the main display is slightly dim (even in the dark) with the characters sort of lacking fullness. Is this common?
> 
> 
> Not sure if the video board is going to be an issue, or if I should even bother addressing the display issue. I paid around $2000.



Start over on your settings by doing a Reset Factory Defaults. That way you won't be confused by settings leftover from the previous owner, such as the Front Panel Display brightness.


Also make sure you have Room EQ = OFF set for each Source in Setup > Source Setup so that you are not accidentally using an old ARC solution set up by the previous owner. Simply resetting Factory Defaults won't clear the prior ARC solution. After you get your own ARC solution loaded then go back and set Room EQ = ON for each Source.


There's no way to be sure of the age of the video board just by its color as different colors were re-used in different production runs. Really, the only thing that's important is whether it works.

--Bob


----------



## wasteofmoney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22066071
> 
> 
> Maybe the display was set to dim by the previous owner.
> 
> John



That's what I was hoping but I already set it to maximum and it's still slightly dim with no uniformity in the characters. It serves its function, but just not what I expected for a piece of equipment that sold for 5-6K four years ago. It's most likely a hardware issue, but may possbly be a firmware issue. I'm not sure if the firmware has anything to do with the display control.


----------



## SimonNo10

Now that I've had 2.14d for a little while I thought I would mention this as it's happened twice now. After I've started up the system and I leave it for about 10-15mins without playing anything and I put a Blu-Ray in, the Oppo or the Anthem don't respond. So when I press play no sound comes out of the speakers and the decoding format doesn't display on the D2v. Last night I turned on the system left it for 10mins approx, and put in Avatar (2d) and the resume message came up so pressed that and the decoding worked but the volume was very very low despite turning up the main volume higher to what I would normally have it, made no difference. I had to power off both the Oppo BDP-95 and the D2v to get the volume back to normal. I tried just the D2v first but I got a pink screen and switching sources didn't rectify the issue.


Other than the above the firmware is quite stable.


*Edit* Another issue came up last night. I hit the input button instead of the "0" and cycled through until I got back to the input required and couldn't get the sound to come back (disc was playing at the time), so again had to turn off the Anthem and the Oppo. Surely this is not normal?


----------



## wasteofmoney

I'll do that Bob. Thanks for the help


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22065737
> 
> 
> ^ Try Muting the D2v before you turn things off.


*I have to agree with BOB.
*

I have 24,000 watts of Audio fed by my D2.


I have never heard a pop.


I do set the D2 to MUTE before I turn off the D2.

D2 - turned off 1st.


Then I POWER DOWN the amps - NO POPS.


----------



## wasteofmoney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/22039436
> 
> 
> If thats all you want it for then, like Kris said, Panasonic blu-ray player is fine. Sony is also good. Ther may be others as well. There isn't much needed to get 1080p to 1080p with BR.
> 
> Tom



Just got a Panasonic DMP-BD85K WiFi Enabled Blu-Ray Disc Player for $100 shipped off Flea Bay. Excellent condition, all acessories included. It's pretty sexy looking and supposedly loads pretty fast. Thanks for the advice


----------



## dmusoke

Hi:


I have 2 subs that are 70-ft away and a plasma TV 15-ft from the proposed rack where i]ll have my HT components. I just ordered a power conditioner for the rack (Torus RM15 AVR, 15Amps model) that i'd like to plug these cords into.


Is there a maximum distance limitation on power cords? If so , what is it? And if not, what is the recommended wire guage?


Thanks,

David


----------



## Roger Dressler

^^ Why not plug the subs into the closest AC outlet? You don't really want the current draw from a pair of subs passing thru the surge protector feeding all the low-level signal devices. Let along passing thru 75+ feet of extension cord, if that's what you had in mind.


I doubt the subs need power conditioning (RF noise reduction) but if they do, the 75' extension cord will make a nice antenna to pick it up. So you'd need another filter near the subs anyway.


Regardless, surge protection is always useful. That could be covered by a whole house unit at the service panel and a smaller one for the subs, such as a Leviton duplex box unit, for example.


----------



## p.las

Hello Bob.


I now have tried All combinations. Buttomline is - the Best sound i get , is when i sets the cross overs to 80/120 and roomgain to 2.2db.


I have tried to set a small bafflewall around my center to see what happens . It's boosting the bas's around 150hz, but at the same time , makes the Nulls around 100hz deeper.


Very frustating .


----------



## p.las

When i set my oppo bdp 83 to pcm and play transformer II , there is a issue from the surround. My setup is 7.2 so i use PLIIx. When the player decoding, there is a lak off - øh something. Mary it's dynamik, but coud also bee a level issue. It's easy to hear in the start off the movie, when paramount panorering around the surround. When it's bitstream the Sound is seamlees around the All speakers.

Is it a known issue?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have to agree with BOB.
> 
> 
> I have 24,000 watts of Audio fed by my D2.
> 
> 
> I have never heard a pop.
> 
> 
> I do set the D2 to MUTE before I turn off the D2.
> 
> D2 - turned off 1st.
> 
> 
> Then I POWER DOWN the amps - NO POPS.



I should clarify that I am not pulling the plug or dumping the rear panel switch. I am putting it in Standby which (in my mind) is a controlled shutdown. I expect the software to do whatever it has to do, to ensure it is a graceful one.


To me this is a good workaround (thanks) but Anthem should fix the software. It doesn't seem like it would be that difficult.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now that I've had 2.14d for a little while I thought I would mention this as it's happened twice now. After I've started up the system and I leave it for about 10-15mins without playing anything and I put a Blu-Ray in, the Oppo or the Anthem don't respond. So when I press play no sound comes out of the speakers and the decoding format doesn't display on the D2v. Last night I turned on the system left it for 10mins approx, and put in Avatar (2d) and the resume message came up so pressed that and the decoding worked but the volume was very very low despite turning up the main volume higher to what I would normally have it, made no difference. I had to power off both the Oppo BDP-95 and the D2v to get the volume back to normal. I tried just the D2v first but I got a pink screen and switching sources didn't rectify the issue.
> 
> 
> Other than the above the firmware is quite stable.
> 
> 
> *Edit* Another issue came up last night. I hit the input button instead of the "0" and cycled through until I got back to the input required and couldn't get the sound to come back (disc was playing at the time), so again had to turn off the Anthem and the Oppo. Surely this is not normal?



I get both issues too. However the volume has never been stuck low. I could always turn it up but it would be 20dB too low, which is my muting level. Is your muting level more than that?


It's as if the muting level gets applied depending on timing of your startup sequence. Last night I turned the source on too soon, while the AVM was still booting up, and the low volume bug happened. Sometimes I let the AVM sit for 10-20 minutes before turning the source on and it happens, so maybe there is a finite window of opportunity where it works properly.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney* /forum/post/22068444
> 
> 
> Just got a Panasonic DMP-BD85K WiFi Enabled Blu-Ray Disc Player for $100 shipped off Flea Bay. Excellent condition, all acessories included. It's pretty sexy looking and supposedly loads pretty fast. Thanks for the advice



Thats good.


In regards to your front panel problems, if Bob's 'reset to factory defaults' doesn't cure the problem you may want to reinstall the v1.33 firmware.

There is no garantee that the previous owner had it installed correctly, or that it wasn't corrupted somehow before it got to you.

The D2 download page is listed under the discontinued products on the anthem website. http://archive.antemav.com/NewSitev2.0/Downloads/DiscontinuedStatementProduct.html 

There is also the D2 manual there.


If you do decide to do the v1.33 reload, just follow the instructions to the letter.

I also suggest that you turn off your firewall during the install--not when you download it from the anthem site.


Tom


----------



## ejn1

Hi all,

Great thread...

Quick question. I had a mrx 300 that I was using as preamp and had it ARC calibrated. I recently sold it and got a AVM 50/ARC... Can I just upload the previous ARC calibration file into the AVM 50 to save the setup time? I'm going to be moving in a couple of months and will do another calibration then so wanted to save some time.

Thanks,

Ejn1


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejn1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Great thread...
> 
> Quick question. I had a mrx 300 that I was using as preamp and had it ARC calibrated. I recently sold it and got a AVM 50/ARC... Can I just upload the previous ARC calibration file into the AVM 50 to save the setup time? I'm going to be moving in a couple of months and will do another calibration then so wanted to save some time.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ejn1



Not sure if the AVM50 will ask to reprocess that file or just say it's not a valid file. That's what happens when you take a AVM50 or D2v file and try uploading it into an MRX. The AVM 50 has twice the processing ability as the MRXs so if the upload attempt fails, just do another measurement and upload that. It will be interesting to hear your observations.

John


----------



## wasteofmoney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/22070050
> 
> 
> There is no guarantee that the previous owner had it installed correctly, or that it wasn't corrupted somehow before it got to you.
> 
> If you do decide to do the v1.33 reload, just follow the instructions to the letter.
> 
> I also suggest that you turn off your firewall during the install--not when you download it from the anthem site.
> 
> 
> Tom



Thanks Tom. I thought about doing that as well. Cant hurt.


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejn1* /forum/post/22070422
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Great thread...
> 
> Quick question. I had a mrx 300 that I was using as preamp and had it ARC calibrated. I recently sold it and got a AVM 50/ARC... Can I just upload the previous ARC calibration file into the AVM 50 to save the setup time? I'm going to be moving in a couple of months and will do another calibration then so wanted to save some time.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ejn1



I did this when I went from an MRX300 to an AVM40. The MRX file transferred without a hitch.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/22069115
> 
> 
> Hi:
> 
> 
> I have 2 subs that are 70-ft away and a plasma TV 15-ft from the proposed rack where i]ll have my HT components. I just ordered a power conditioner for the rack (Torus RM15 AVR, 15Amps model) that i'd like to plug these cords into.
> 
> 
> Is there a maximum distance limitation on power cords? If so , what is it? And if not, what is the recommended wire guage?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler* /forum/post/22069181
> 
> 
> ^^ Why not plug the subs into the closest AC outlet? You don't really want the current draw from a pair of subs passing thru the surge protector feeding all the low-level signal devices. Let along passing thru 75+ feet of extension cord, if that's what you had in mind.
> 
> 
> I doubt the subs need power conditioning (RF noise reduction) but if they do, the 75' extension cord will make a nice antenna to pick it up. So you'd need another filter near the subs anyway.
> 
> 
> Regardless, surge protection is always useful. That could be covered by a whole house unit at the service panel and a smaller one for the subs, such as a Leviton duplex box unit, for example.



Bob:


That's what i am doing right now but the AC mains closest to the subs aren't protected at all and are 'very 'noisy'. I measured the noise using a AC mains power line analyzer. Having another cheaper power conditioner to aid the subs was not recommended by my dealer as he said that one should use line conditioners that use the same technology and that its not wise to mix them up. The best(i think) i can do is maybe place a cheaper unconditioner next to the subs and then plug that conditioner into the main Torus unit. My 1000W dual subs are rated to draw a maximum of 200W each from the AC mains. My new conditioner uses an isolated transformer( http://www.toruspower.com/products/n...a/rm-15-cs-15/ ) to decouple its output from the mains, hence cutting down or eliminating line noise, including hum, spikes and surges.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I did this when I went from an MRX300 to an AVM40. The MRX file transferred without a hitch.



Did it reprocess the file before uploading?

John


----------



## ejn1

Thanks. I'll let you know if I'm successful also with the MRX 300 ARC file upload.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejn1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks. I'll let you know if I'm successful also with the MRX 300 ARC file upload.



ARC should ask if the file should be reprocessed because the Statement pre/pros have twice the amount of processing compared to the MRXs.

John


----------



## AVfile

Maybe not. He has a 50 not 50v.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe not. He has a 50 not 50v.



Both the 50 and 50v have the same processing power so it shouldn't matter which model he has.

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Both the 50 and 50v have the same processing power so it shouldn't matter which model he has.
> 
> John



No 50v got upgraded to D2/D2v level.


----------



## AVfile

Here you go; only 50v gets the "dual-core, dual-processor audio DSP" of the Statement line:

http://www.anthemav.com/index.php?op...id=69&Itemid=8


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I get both issues too. However the volume has never been stuck low. I could always turn it up but it would be 20dB too low, which is my muting level. Is your muting level more than that?



I don't know the Mute level on my D2v will check it out. Good to know I'm not alone with this issue. My mate who just purchased a 50v gets the low level issue as well and his running 2.11 firmware, but was also happening with 2.10.


----------



## chiliman

Just upgraded from the 50 to the 50v and have been working the ARC this week. It's frustrating as all hell that it keeps calibrating with my Paradigm S8's crossover at 115hz while the C5 gets set at 60hz. Currently I'm manually changing the S8's to 60hz before downloading. I'll post the graphs later for more input.


I'll tell you what, I did not expect such a drastic level of audio improvement from the 50v vs the 50. Very happy with my upgrade. Got a pretty good deal on a 4 month old unit on Audiogon.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/22072023
> 
> 
> Just upgraded from the 50 to the 50v and have been working the ARC this week. It's frustrating as all hell that it keeps calibrating with my Paradigm S8's crossover at 115hz while the C5 gets set at 60hz. Currently I'm manually changing the S8's to 60hz before downloading. I'll post the graphs later for more input.
> 
> 
> I'll tell you what, I did not expect such a drastic level of audio improvement from the 50v vs the 50. Very happy with my upgrade. Got a pretty good deal on a 4 month old unit on Audiogon.



Yes, please post your Targets' View. It sounds like you might be having some speaker placement issues. The S8's are very good speakers, and they can go pretty low.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/22071277
> 
> 
> Here you go; only 50v gets the "dual-core, dual-processor audio DSP" of the Statement line



This is for decoding 192 kHz sources (previous models went up to 96 kHz) - ARC is the same.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/22072023
> 
> 
> Just upgraded from the 50 to the 50v and have been working the ARC this week. It's frustrating as all hell that it keeps calibrating with my Paradigm S8's crossover at 115hz while the C5 gets set at 60hz. Currently I'm manually changing the S8's to 60hz before downloading. I'll post the graphs later for more input.
> 
> 
> I'll tell you what, I did not expect such a drastic level of audio improvement from the 50v vs the 50. Very happy with my upgrade. Got a pretty good deal on a 4 month old unit on Audiogon.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/22072084
> 
> 
> Yes, please post your Targets' View. It sounds like you might be having some speaker placement issues. The S8's are very good speakers, and they can go pretty low.




My S2's crossover at 60hz.Your S8's should go at least that low.

Are you bi-wiring them? If so check your connections.

And please post all your charts.


Tom


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here you go; only 50v gets the "dual-core, dual-processor audio DSP" of the Statement line:
> 
> http://www.anthemav.com/index.php?op...id=69&Itemid=8



I was referring to 50s that had ARC so they had the upgraded DSP board. I was not referring to any other processing ability other than ARC.

John


----------



## ejn1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22072163
> 
> 
> I was referring to 50s that had ARC so they had the upgraded DSP board. I was not referring to any other processing ability other than ARC.
> 
> John



Hmm, I had called Anthem tech support and they said that the ARC upgrade for a avm 50 consisted of the software and accessories plus a firmware upgrade. I specifically asked if their was a hardware upgrade and they said no... Is this not the case?


----------



## chiliman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/22072160
> 
> 
> My S2's crossover at 60hz.Your S8's should go at least that low.
> 
> Are you bi-wiring them? If so check your connections.
> 
> And please post all your charts.
> 
> 
> Tom



Yep. I am bi-wiring them. I'll check the connections as well as run a reading with the stock jumpers in place.


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejn1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, I had called Anthem tech support and they said that the ARC upgrade for a avm 50 consisted of the software and accessories plus a firmware upgrade. I specifically asked if their was a hardware upgrade and they said no... Is this not the case?



When my AVM 50 was upgraded for ARC, a dual DSP board was also installed since they only had a single DSP. So yes there is a hardware upgrade as well.

John


----------



## ejn1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22072381
> 
> 
> When my AVM 50 was upgraded for ARC, a dual DSP board was also installed since they only had a single DSP. So yes there is a hardware upgrade as well.
> 
> John



Thanks. So it does have the same DSP as the 50v?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/22072142
> 
> 
> This is for decoding 192 kHz sources (previous models went up to 96 kHz) - ARC is the same.



DSP used only when ARC is engaged? Confused because the 50v cuts it to 96k when ARC is engaged. When ARC is off thought it was straight to the DAC, no DSP


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejn1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. So it does have the same DSP as the 50v?



Yes.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

The DSP is required not just for ARC but to decode compressed formats, bass management, time alignment, lip-sync delay, surround upmix, Dolby Volume, Dolby Digital dynamics control, bass/treble, center channel EQ, Boundary Gain Compensation, Room Resonance Filter, phase and polarity controls, and anything else meant to change the sound.


AVM 50 (no ARC) - single DSP

AVM 50/ARC - dual DSP

AVM 50v - dual dual-core DSP (like 4 single-core)


All different but in the latter two ARC result is the same. Twice the sampling rate requires twice the processing and for that matter twice the storage on the media. Number of DSPs doesn't mean anything on its own because if one DSP can do the job just as well as ten different ones, there's no point in using ten DSPs. The job that needs to be done determines which DSP to use and how many, and all that really matters is what comes out the output jack, not so much how it got there.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The DSP is required not just for ARC but to decode compressed formats, bass management, time alignment, surround upmix, Dolby Volume, Dolby Digital dynamics control, bass/treble, center channel EQ, Boundary Gain Compensation, Room Resonance Filter, phase and polarity controls, and anything else meant to change the sound.
> 
> 
> AVM 50 (no ARC) - single DSP
> 
> AVM 50/ARC - dual DSP
> 
> AVM 50v - dual dual-core DSP (like 4 single-core)
> 
> 
> All different but in the latter two ARC result is the same. Twice the sampling rate requires twice the processing and for that matter twice the storage on the media. Number of DSPs doesn't mean anything on its own because if one DSP can do the job just as well as ten different ones, there's no point in using ten DSPs. The job that needs to be done determines which DSP to use and how many, and all that really matters is what comes out the output jack, not so much how it got there.



Thanks for that Nick.

John


----------



## ejn1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem* /forum/post/22072501
> 
> 
> The DSP is required not just for ARC but to decode compressed formats, bass management, time alignment, lip-sync delay, surround upmix, Dolby Volume, Dolby Digital dynamics control, bass/treble, center channel EQ, Boundary Gain Compensation, Room Resonance Filter, phase and polarity controls, and anything else meant to change the sound.
> 
> 
> AVM 50 (no ARC) - single DSP
> 
> AVM 50/ARC - dual DSP
> 
> AVM 50v - dual dual-core DSP (like 4 single-core)
> 
> 
> All different but in the latter two ARC result is the same. Twice the sampling rate requires twice the processing and for that matter twice the storage on the media. Number of DSPs doesn't mean anything on its own because if one DSP can do the job just as well as ten different ones, there's no point in using ten DSPs. The job that needs to be done determines which DSP to use and how many, and all that really matters is what comes out the output jack, not so much how it got there.



Thanks Nick. I assume the DSP in my AVM50/ARC can do all the things you mention but I dont think they are included in the upgrade (eg Dolby Volume)?


Also, The attempt to upload my MRX300 ARC file to the AVM50 did not go so well. I opened the ARC program, then opened the ARC file from the MRX300, then the program flashed a message that the ARC file was from a different model and asked me if I wanted to convert it. I said yes, it converted the file and then I proceeded to upload. The upload froze at about 90% complete and I couldnt abort as everthing was frozen still. I had to unplug, wipe the ARC software from my laptop and proceed to run ARC from scratch with the new mic and software intended for the AVM50. I wound up wasting more time than just doing it from scratch the first time and was a bit worried I might have to reflash the unit. All seem to be good now though.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/22072023
> 
> 
> Just upgraded from the 50 to the 50v and have been working the ARC this week. It's frustrating as all hell that it keeps calibrating with my Paradigm S8's crossover at 115hz while the C5 gets set at 60hz. Currently I'm manually changing the S8's to 60hz before downloading. I'll post the graphs later for more input.
> 
> 
> I'll tell you what, I did not expect such a drastic level of audio improvement from the 50v vs the 50. Very happy with my upgrade. Got a pretty good deal on a 4 month old unit on Audiogon.



When I moved my room around my S8s went from a 60hz to a 115hz crossover, I moved them out from the back wall 2 more inches for a total of 26" now and all three cross over at 60hz again.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved my room around my S8s went from a 60hz to a 115hz crossover, I moved them out from the back wall 2 more inches for a total of 26" now and all three cross over at 60hz again.



The Sigs and Studios like being up to 3 ft. Away from the wall. My studio 100s did the same thing.

John


----------



## xtrips

Is it true Anthem is not releasing their new HDMI 1.4 3D boards because they are deeply invested in the new holographic video boards due 2020?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22074109
> 
> 
> The Sigs and Studios like being up to 3 ft. Away from the wall. My studio 100s did the same thing.
> 
> John



Chiliman,


Studlygoorite and jayray make an excellent point.

Placement is very important to speaker response.

I looked at your pictures of your HT and it looks like the mains are in recessed alcoves which may be causing the problem you are experiencing.


In ARC, under 'tools' there is a very useful option called 'quick measure'. If you are not familiar with it, it allows you to run sweeps on one speaker at a time. It has been very helpful to many of us here in finding an optimal subwoofer position, but in your case it should help you find a better spot for your fronts.


Start it with LF and see what it looks like. Since you haven't posted your charts I can't be sure, but I guess there's a pretty big dip thats causing ARC to set its crossover so high.

Move it out a little from the wall and see what happens in QM. Keep moving it around until you get the best response possible.

Switch the QM to RF and repeat the process. Chances are its optimal position will mirror the RF.

If you have any other speakers that need their position tweeked (especially the sub) you can do that also while running QM.

Once their distance from your back and side walls is determined you may want to tweek the toe in of your fronts for optimal imaging (after you've run QM, but before re-running ARC.) Be sure that 'room eq' is turned off for the source you use to test your imaging.


You will of course need to re-run ARC after moving the speakers, but you should get a much better solution for your speakers.


This takes a little time, but will be well worth it in sound quality.


Tom


----------



## MStanic

Question folks,


If I setup an HTPC, does the video card HDMI out (connected to one of the D2v's HDMI inputs as a source) take care of the video for sure and audio as well? In other words, I don't need to have a sound card or sound enabled on the HTPC for the audio and video to work.


I'm primarily interested in playing my movies off ripped files on my hard drive and not directly from the PC's Bluray player. I want to use Windows Media Center or Apple TV3 as my main interface(s) to queue up everything and run the movies.


I have some spare parts (old 4870 radeon but no HDMI out just DVI and an Intel E8500/3.1Ghz Core 2 Duo CPU) but I'm not sure they will cut it for what I am looking to do. Particularly, the video card which does not have and HDMI out. Any thoughts/comments/help would be appreciated.


Also, does streaming movies from a native hard drive on your mobo work better/faster than having a USB drive attached to it?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/22075334
> 
> 
> Question folks,
> 
> 
> If I setup an HTPC, does the video card HDMI out (connected to one of the D2v's HDMI inputs as a source) take care of the video for sure and audio as well? In other words, I don't need to have a sound card or sound enabled on the HTPC for the audio and video to work.
> 
> 
> I'm primarily interested in playing my movies off ripped files on my hard drive and not directly from the PC's Bluray player. I want to use Windows Media Center or Apple TV3 as my main interface(s) to queue up everything and run the movies.
> 
> 
> I have some spare parts (old 4870 radeon but no HDMI out just DVI and an Intel E8500/3.1Ghz Core 2 Duo CPU) but I'm not sure they will cut it for what I am looking to do. Particularly, the video card which does not have and HDMI out. Any thoughts/comments/help would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Also, does streaming movies from a native hard drive on your mobo work better/faster than having a USB drive attached to it?



Mstanic:


I believe that since the audio is embedded inside video on any HDMI signal and your contents are valid video/movie files, i see no reason to have a separate audio card. All audio and video should be available from the HDMI connector as other normal devices.


----------



## chiliman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/22074033
> 
> 
> When I moved my room around my S8s went from a 60hz to a 115hz crossover, I moved them out from the back wall 2 more inches for a total of 26" now and all three cross over at 60hz again.



Great. Will work with some placement.


Thanks

Randy


----------



## chiliman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite* /forum/post/22074033
> 
> 
> When I moved my room around my S8s went from a 60hz to a 115hz crossover, I moved them out from the back wall 2 more inches for a total of 26" now and all three cross over at 60hz again.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy* /forum/post/22075255
> 
> 
> Chiliman,
> 
> 
> Studlygoorite and jayray make an excellent point.
> 
> Placement is very important to speaker response.
> 
> I looked at your pictures of your HT and it looks like the mains are in recessed alcoves which may be causing the problem you are experiencing.
> 
> 
> In ARC, under 'tools' there is a very useful option called 'quick measure'. If you are not familiar with it, it allows you to run sweeps on one speaker at a time. It has been very helpful to many of us here in finding an optimal subwoofer position, but in your case it should help you find a better spot for your fronts.
> 
> 
> Start it with LF and see what it looks like. Since you haven't posted your charts I can't be sure, but I guess there's a pretty big dip thats causing ARC to set its crossover so high.
> 
> Move it out a little from the wall and see what happens in QM. Keep moving it around until you get the best response possible.
> 
> Switch the QM to RF and repeat the process. Chances are its optimal position will mirror the RF.
> 
> If you have any other speakers that need their position tweeked (especially the sub) you can do that also while running QM.
> 
> Once their distance from your back and side walls is determined you may want to tweek the toe in of your fronts for optimal imaging (after you've run QM, but before re-running ARC.) Be sure that 'room eq' is turned off for the source you use to test your imaging.
> 
> 
> You will of course need to re-run ARC after moving the speakers, but you should get a much better solution for your speakers.
> 
> 
> This takes a little time, but will be well worth it in sound quality.
> 
> 
> Tom



Will do. I do have the alcoves but the S8's are pulled out of them. I need to take the room down to the studs and rebuild it but that just isn't in the cards right now. I'll move them around a bit and work with the quick measure tool.


I redid ARC last night and it crossed over at 60hz. I had tightened the binding posts and re-positioned a bit. The LF and RF on my graphs are fairly the same. I'll get them posted shortly.


Now, I just have to understand Room Gain better. I'm really not that dense but I've read a bunch of posts here explaining it but for the life of me I do not understand why room gain is "good" and how tweaking it effects the ARC calculations. My room gain is at the max 3.9xxx. I am tweaking it down to and comparing the post calculation graphs and the calculated line looks to be much closer to the target line along the graphs with the gain tweaked down.


Again. Will get them posted. They're on another computer.


Randy


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Will do. I do have the alcoves but the S8's are pulled out of them. I need to take the room down to the studs and rebuild it but that just isn't in the cards right now. I'll move them around a bit and work with the quick measure tool.
> 
> 
> I redid ARC last night and it crossed over at 60hz. I had tightened the binding posts and re-positioned a bit. The LF and RF on my graphs are fairly the same. I'll get them posted shortly.
> 
> 
> Now, I just have to understand Room Gain better. I'm really not that dense but I've read a bunch of posts here explaining it but for the life of me I do not understand why room gain is "good" and how tweaking it effects the ARC calculations. My room gain is at the max 3.9xxx. I am tweaking it down to and comparing the post calculation graphs and the calculated line looks to be much closer to the target line along the graphs with the gain tweaked down.
> 
> 
> Again. Will get them posted. Their on another computer.
> 
> 
> Randy



If you lower room gain the listening will tell you what you're missing as opposed to the charts. Without room gain the sound could take on the characteristic of Flat sounding like you're listening outside in a field. With it sounds are more realistic. It's one of the reasons other correction schemes don't sound as good.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

chiliman,

It's not that Room Gain per se is good. It's that preserving the inherent Room Gain of your listening room is good. It's part of what gives the perception of listening in a good room instead of out of doors or in an anechoic chamber.


Movie mixers assume a modest amount of Room Gain will be present in your room -- 2-4 dB.


Room Gain is a room response characteristic. But unlike most of those, it is one ARC tries to measure and preserve. That makes recordings sound "natural" in your particular room. I.E., like "real" sounds that might happen in the room.


Room Gain is a shallow boost of bass frequencies. It shows on the charts as the shallow hump up of the Target curves near the crossover frequencies. The Room Gain value is simply the height of that hump in dB over the basic volume level of the solution (easily found in the flat part of the Target curves for the main speakers off to the right of the crossover frequencies).


Raise or lower the Room Gain value and you'll see how the shape of that hump varies. 0 dB Room Gain means no hump!


The audible effect of Room Gain is precisely what you might expect given the shape of that hump.

--Bob


----------



## p.las

Hello Bob.

thanks for the time you have uses on my graphs. i have dessided to make a bafflewall. it will not solve my problems. but will give some more output from 100hz.

i have attached to messuement off my centerspeaker. One freestanding behind the screenwall (the first graph) and one at the same location, but with a small baffle mounted around the center speaker - the size off the baffle is about 1 feed from the speakerbaffle and out.

as you can see, it makes a big difference. i am exieded to see what happens when the bafflewall become mutch larger - the same size as the screen.... 108"


my acoustoc said that with the small room i got, there will always bee nulls and peaks.


edit. my speakers are closed, so there will not bee mutch output under 100hz - M&K mp2510 active studie monitors


----------



## chiliman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22078165
> 
> 
> If you lower room gain the listening will tell you what you're missing as opposed to the charts. Without room gain the sound could take on the characteristic of Flat sounding like you're listening outside in a field. With it sounds are more realistic. It's one of the reasons other correction schemes don't sound as good.
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau* /forum/post/22078325
> 
> 
> chiliman,
> 
> It's not that Room Gain per se is good. It's that preserving the inherent Room Gain of your listening room is good. It's part of what gives the perception of listening in a good room instead of out of doors or in an anechoic chamber.
> 
> 
> Movie mixers assume a modest amount of Room Gain will be present in your room -- 2-4 dB.
> 
> 
> Room Gain is a room response characteristic. But unlike most of those, it is one ARC tries to measure and preserve. That makes recordings sound "natural" in your particular room. I.E., like "real" sounds that might happen in the room.
> 
> 
> Room Gain is a shallow boost of bass frequencies. It shows on the charts as the shallow hump up of the Target curves near the crossover frequencies. The Room Gain value is simply the height of that hump in dB over the basic volume level of the solution (easily found in the flat part of the Target curves for the main speakers off to the right of the crossover frequencies).
> 
> 
> Raise or lower the Room Gain value and you'll see how the shape of that hump varies. 0 dB Room Gain means no hump!
> 
> 
> The audible effect of Room Gain is precisely what you might expect given the shape of that hump.
> 
> --Bob



WAHOO. I am enlightened. Thanks guys, I get it now.


Randy


----------



## TJG55

Is that "WAHOO" an abbreviated form of Wa Hoo Wa?

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las* /forum/post/22078640
> 
> 
> Hello Bob.
> 
> thanks for the time you have uses on my graphs. i have dessided to make a bafflewall. it will not solve my problems. but will give some more output from 100hz.
> 
> i have attached to messuement off my centerspeaker. One freestanding behind the screenwall (the first graph) and one at the same location, but with a small baffle mounted around the center speaker - the size off the baffle is about 1 feed from the speakerbaffle and out.
> 
> as you can see, it makes a big difference. i am exieded to see what happens when the bafflewall become mutch larger - the same size as the screen.... 108"
> 
> 
> my acoustoc said that with the small room i got, there will always bee nulls and peaks.
> 
> 
> edit. my speakers are closed, so there will not bee mutch output under 100hz - M&K mp2510 active studie monitors



It looks like you killed off about 6dB of that dip, which is definitely a good thing. It might even allow ARC to do full correction through the dip now without you having to struggle. I'd say you are on the right track.


These cancellation dips come from reflections interacting with each other. Bass sets up "standing waves" that span the volume of the room and if the standing waves from reflections are out of phase with the direct output from the speaker then you get cancellation. By killing off reflections (e.g. a bass trap behind the speaker -- which is what it sounds like you have installed) you can tame the cancellations and thus reduce such dips.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/22078848
> 
> 
> WAHOO. I am enlightened. Thanks guys, I get it now.
> 
> 
> Randy



I think its an acronym for What A Helpful Online eye Opener!!


Thanks Bob, that was the most helpful explanation of Room Gain I have seen on this thread.


----------



## chiliman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55* /forum/post/22080876
> 
> 
> Is that "WAHOO" an abbreviated form of Wa Hoo Wa?
> 
> TJG



Like Button


----------



## chiliman

Alrighty. Here's the screen shots of the ARC run. Just ran it again. The alcoves are really messing with the S8's. If I pull them out and place them in front of the screen the big dip from 80-120hz nearly goes away completely. At this point my only answer is to work with what I have. I've pulled them out of the alcove but still in front of it. Little improvement, but some.


Randy


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/22082428
> 
> 
> Alrighty. Here's the screen shots of the ARC run. Just ran it again. The alcoves are really messing with the S8's. If I pull them out and place them in front of the screen the big dip from 80-120hz nearly goes away completely. At this point my only answer is to work with what I have. I've pulled them out of the alcove but still in front of it. Little improvement, but some.
> 
> 
> Randy



I think what you have here looks pretty good. I think that you should try to play around with a different sub location if you can because your sub is dropping off after 40Hz. I would guess that ARC probably set your sub's cutoff around 80Hz based on your sub's graph. Your Rears are suffering about a 10 - 12 db drop from 180Hz to 100Hz. So, if you could possibly reposition or repoint your Rears, that might help to eliminate and or reduce the null.


Also, please post your Target's View so that we can see the cutoffs that ARC has set for your speakers.


----------



## Whitl

I have a D1 with the first upgrade to a 2 with the HDMI's. I have bought an OPPO BDP-95 and I'm going through the setup. I will need to have the 95 do the conversion to LPCM for the Blu-ray discs as my D2 version doesn't support bit-stream, what happens to mkv files that will be played through the USB input as they will only be DTS and DD do they get converted as well and what will the display read on the D2 so that I know thinks are setup right. I'm sure there is a post on here with the setup configuration for the 95 and the D2, would appreciate it greatly if someone could give me as link, as I also want to setup 6 channel analog and 2 channel balanced analog.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/22084061
> 
> 
> I have a D1 with the first upgrade to a 2 with the HDMI's. I have bought an OPPO BDP-95 and I'm going through the setup. I will need to have the 95 do the conversion to LPCM for the Blu-ray discs as my D2 version doesn't support bit-stream, what happens to mkv files that will be played through the USB input as they will only be DTS and DD do they get converted as well and what will the display read on the D2 so that I know thinks are setup right. I'm sure there is a post on here with the setup configuration for the 95 and the D2, would appreciate it greatly if someone could give me as link, as I also want to setup 6 channel analog and 2 channel balanced analog.



For HDMI, set the 95 to HDMI Audio LPCM and it will do all the necessary decoding -- yes, even for the media files you play from your USB drive.


There's no "wrong" way to set that in the 95, so if you are getting HDMI LPCM audio input reported by the D2 then you are in good shape.


The D2's info displays (press the Select button repeatedly) will show the audio input as PCM of the appropriate sampling rate (e.g., 48KHz) and will show the speaker channels currently active for input according to whatever you are playing.


For SACD playback, set SACD Output PCM.


For HDCD playback, set HDCD Decoding ON.


Since you will be using HDMI Audio LPCM, it is also OK to leave Secondary Audio set to ON all the time.


---------------------------------------


For Analog, go into the Speaker Configuration settings in the 95 and set it as follows. NOTE: These settings have no effect on the HDMI audio output which will be live simultaneously. Again these are settings in the OPPO:


1) Set all speakers to Large, and the Subwoofer to ON -- EXCEPT set the Left Rear and Right Rear to OFF.


2) Set all speakers and the sub equidistant. Any distance will do so long as they are all the same. The default, 12.00 foot distance is fine even if that is not what you've actually got.


3) Set the output volume trim on all speakers to 0dB -- EXCEPT set the Subwoofer output volume trim to +5dB.


4) After you've got all speakers set this way, set the Down-Mix to 5.1 The D2 can only accept up to 5.1 on its multi-channel Analog input. Run the 6 cables and you are good to go. For 7.1 tracks the OPPO will down mix Rear channel info into the Side surround channels for output.


5) Set Dynamic Range Control to OFF


6) The Crossover setting in the OPPO will be ignored because you have set all speakers to Large. You can leave it at the default 80Hz.


7) Set Volume in the 95 to "Fixed".


The above settings assume you will have your D2 do any processing needed on this multi-channel Analog input -- i.e., volume trims, crossovers, and speaker distance adjustment. This would be the case, for example, if you were using ARC with that input. I.e., if your speakers aren't REALLY "full range" -- Large -- speakers, it's the D2 that takes care of that (via ARC) not the OPPO. Or if you don't actually have a Center speaker, it's the D2 that takes care of that.


These settings to not affect the dedicated stereo outputs on the 95. You can separately cable those to a stereo input pair on the D2.


If you do not *NEED* the separate, dedicated stereo configuration, then run the L/R from the dedicated stereo Analog outputs IN PLACE OF the normal Left Front / Right Front of the multi-channel Analog outputs to the 5.1 input on the D2, and make the setting change in the 95 to reconfigure those dedicated stereo Analog outputs to work in place of the normal LF/RF outputs of the multi-channel set. That gives you a higher quality Analog audio output path for Left Front and Right Front. When set that way, those stereo analog output jacks react to the speaker settings in the OPPO just the way the normal LF/RF jacks do.


My personal recommendation is that you set the Source Setup in the D2 for the Analog inputs you are using to ANALOG-DSP with ROOM EQ = ON so that the Analog audio input gets processed through ARC. That assumes you are using ARC with your D2. If you are not, you should!

--Bob


----------



## Whitl

Bob


Once again thank you very much!


----------



## Whitl

Bob


With respect to the video, if I set the Blu-ray for 1080p/24 what will happen to the mkv files, I don't think they play to well at the 1080p/24 tried it once with the WD box and the picture frames were like slow motion.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/22084957
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> With respect to the video, if I set the Blu-ray for 1080p/24 what will happen to the mkv files, I don't think they play to well at the 1080p/24 tried it once with the WD box and the picture frames were like slow motion.



Well it depends on what's inside the MKV for video format, resolution, and frame rate.


Any content that is not /24 to begin with will be output as /60.


1080p/24 content using the typical video codecs for Blu-rays should be output as 1080p/24. Which is fine even if your TV doesn't accept that because the D2 will raise that to 1080p/60 for output (a trivial bit of processing).


720p/24 content will likely be output as 1080p/60. If you set 720p output you will get 720p/60. That last is due to the fact that the HDMI specs don't allow a 720p/24 signal. The first is I believe an artifact of the processing done to extract content from MKV.


Anyway, it is easy enough to try. Remember you can bring up the OPPO Setup menu even while content is playing. Most (but not all) of the settings in there can be changed "on the fly" while content is playing.


Keep in mind that the on-screen Info display from the OPPO shows what's coming out of the CONTENT (disc or file) -- NOT what's being sent out as output.


To see what's happening for output from the OPPO (input into the D2) use the Select button displays on the D2. Also press and hold the "7" button to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu and see what is reported in the INFO tab on the right of that list of tabs.

--Bob


----------



## chiliman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/22082994
> 
> 
> I think what you have here looks pretty good. I think that you should try to play around with a different sub location if you can because your sub is dropping off after 40Hz. I would guess that ARC probably set your sub's cutoff around 80Hz based on your sub's graph. Your Rears are suffering about a 10 - 12 db drop from 180Hz to 100Hz. So, if you could possibly reposition or repoint your Rears, that might help to eliminate and or reduce the null.
> 
> 
> Also, please post your Target's View so that we can see the cutoffs that ARC has set for your speakers.




I'll post targets later tonight when I'm at that computer. Sub is set at 80hz. My rears are in ceiling...ain't going anywhere...any other ideas?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/22089740
> 
> 
> I'll post targets later tonight when I'm at that computer. Sub is set at 80hz. My rears are in ceiling...ain't going anywhere...any other ideas?



Nope.


----------



## chiliman

Ninja12:


Here's the targets screen shot.


I'm not sure if I am reading these graphs correctly. I see a 1/2 db dip between 30-40hz along the "calculated" green line. The red "measured" line is 3db higher in the 30-40hz. Is that what you refer to as dropping off after below 40hz? Isn't the calculated fairly right on target?


Bob, any thoughts on my readings?


Randy


----------



## Whitl

I have finally got everything installed and wired up, been quite a while since I have updated the software version on the D2, currently using 1.33, do I need to progress up to the latest or go right to the current D2 software.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/22090062
> 
> 
> Ninja12:
> 
> 
> Here's the targets screen shot.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if I am reading these graphs correctly. I see a 1/2 db dip between 30-40hz along the "calculated" green line. The red "measured" line is 3db higher in the 30-40hz. Is that what you refer to as dropping off after below 40hz? Isn't the calculated fairly right on target?
> 
> 
> Bob, any thoughts on my readings?
> 
> 
> Randy



No, the 1/2 dip is not what I'm talking about. I'm talking about the drop off of frequencies from 40Hz to 120Hz. What you should try to shoot for is a pretty smooth and flat response from 20Hz to 120Hz and a natural cutoff setting of 120Hz for your sub. ARC has set the cutoff for your Rears at 115Hz which means your Rears will play frequencies down to 115Hz and the frequencies below 115Hz will be sent to your sub; but, your sub is not kicking in until it receives frequencies from 80Hz on down. Therefore, you have a hole between your Rears and Sub of 35Hz. Normally, Bass frequencies go as high as 120Hz, and that's the reason why you want ARC to naturally set your sub's cutoff to 120Hz so that you can cover the higher Bass Frequencies. Also, what did ARC set for your sub's trim? From the looks of your chart, you might want to turn your sub's volume, using your sub's volume knob, down a little.


I have attached my sub's graph so that you can see what I am talking about.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/22090268
> 
> 
> I have finally got everything installed and wired up, been quite a while since I have updated the software version on the D2, currently using 1.33, do I need to progress up to the latest or go right to the current D2 software.



v1.33 is the latest official software for the D2. If you are not having any problems, then you can stick with v1.33.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/22090285
> 
> 
> No, the 1/2 dip is not what I'm talking about. I'm talking about the drop off of frequencies from 40Hz to 120Hz. What you should try to shoot for is a pretty smooth and flat response from 20Hz to 120Hz and a natural cutoff setting of 120Hz for your sub. ARC has set the cutoff for your Rears at 115Hz which means your Rears will play frequencies down to 115Hz and the frequencies below 115Hz will be sent to your sub; but, your sub is not kicking in until it receives frequencies from 80Hz on down. Therefore, you have a hole between your Rears and Sub of 35Hz. Normally, Bass frequencies go as high as 120Hz, and that's the reason why you want ARC to naturally set your sub's cutoff to 120Hz so that you can cover the higher Bass Frequencies. Also, what did ARC set for your sub's trim? From the looks of your chart, you might want to turn your sub's volume, using your sub's volume knob, down a little.
> 
> 
> I have attached my sub's graph so that you can see what I am talking about.



Show off







!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman* /forum/post/22090062
> 
> 
> Ninja12:
> 
> 
> Here's the targets screen shot.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if I am reading these graphs correctly. I see a 1/2 db dip between 30-40hz along the "calculated" green line. The red "measured" line is 3db higher in the 30-40hz. Is that what you refer to as dropping off after below 40hz? Isn't the calculated fairly right on target?
> 
> 
> Bob, any thoughts on my readings?
> 
> 
> Randy



Chillman:


Change the subwoofer setting from auto to Flat in the advanced tab. But before all this, did you move the sub to find a better placement for better FR? The slide from 40Hz onwards is quite steep and show s placement problem that would be resoved if moved to a better place.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/22090576
> 
> 
> Chillman:
> 
> 
> Change the subwoofer setting from auto to Flat in the advanced tab. But before all this, did you move the sub to find a better placement for better FR? The slide from 40Hz onwards is quite steep and show s placement problem that would be resoved if moved to a better place.



Chiliman,


We all know here that moving a sub around isn't a lot of fun, but we've all done it.

Sometimes just a foot or two (or even inches) will make a huge difference.

Sometimes moving it to a different wall is the answer. jayray moved his to his side wall and his subwoofer graph looks even better than ninja12's.

Again, the Quick Measure is the way to go when finding the best spot for your sub.


Tom


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/22090557
> 
> 
> Show off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !



LOL!!! Not at all. Besides, this is all jayray's fault.







He has set the standard real high for everyone to achieve. If you can come close to what jayray has set, then the payoff is enormous. My graph is not as good as his; but, it's close, and I am very happy with the results.


So, when I look at people's sub charts, my goal is to try to give advice to help the person to achieve a graph that looks similar to my sub's graph or jayray's sub graph, and there are a lot of folks who have achieved that goal. It's not impossible, and jayray's Sub Hall Of Fame has grown quite a bit.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Chillman:
> 
> 
> Change the subwoofer setting from auto to Flat in the advanced tab.



how do you know that will be safe for his sub? If he posted the model I missed it.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/22091124
> 
> 
> LOL!!! Not at all. Besides, this is all jayray's fault.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He has set the standard real high for everyone to achieve. If you can come close to what jayray has set, then the payoff is enormous. My graph is not as good as his; but, it's close, and I am very happy with the results.
> 
> 
> So, when I look at people's sub charts, my goal is to try to give advice to help the person to achieve a graph that looks similar to my sub's graph or jayray's sub graph, and there are a lot of folks who have achieved that goal. It's not impossible, and jayray's Sub Hall Of Fame has grown quite a bit.



I just happen to be filled with envy whenever i see sub plots such as yours. Even with my dual Sunfire subs, i only get a flat response to 80hz or so and then decline rapdily after that. I moved subs all day long and the only way i could get it to top out at 100Hz or more was to have it at the center of my room







. Quite quite practical unless i intend to use them as foot rests as well







!


I'm about to get a new AV rack for the first time so it will clear up some space and will have to repeat the whole exercise again







!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/22091635
> 
> 
> how do you know that will be safe for his sub? If he posted the model I missed it.



I believe the Flat setting only flattens the response down to 20Hz. Below that ARC stops compensating and the response follows its natural course all the way down to DC.


----------



## Whitl

Anthem tech support gave me a link to the latest versions for arc and the D2, the version for the D2 is 1.47f, do you see any problem in going from 1.33 to that version, the arc version they gave me is 3.0.2, would that be compatible with the 1.47f software on the D2.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/22092454
> 
> 
> Anthem tech support gave me a link to the latest versions for arc and the D2, the version for the D2 is 1.47f, do you see any problem in going from 1.33 to that version, the arc version they gave me is 3.0.2, would that be compatible with the 1.47f software on the D2.



I went from version 1.33 to 1.47f without any problems. 1.33 is the official version, and 1.47f was not officially released; but, Anthem created 1.47f to resolve some HDMI handshake issues. I don't know if it's still true; but, 1.47f would not install on older versions of the D2; but, since Anthem gave you the link to 1.47f, then they must know that it will work with your D2. And yes, ARC 3.0.2 works fine with 1.47f which is what I am running on my D2.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl* /forum/post/22092454
> 
> 
> Anthem tech support gave me a link to the latest versions for arc and the D2, the version for the D2 is 1.47f, do you see any problem in going from 1.33 to that version, the arc version they gave me is 3.0.2, would that be compatible with the 1.47f software on the D2.



If you *DO NOT HAVE PROBLEMS* - stick with 1.33


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/22091635
> 
> 
> how do you know that will be safe for his sub? If he posted the model I missed it.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/22092251
> 
> 
> I believe the Flat setting only flattens the response down to 20Hz. Below that ARC stops compensating and the response follows its natural course all the way down to DC.



The Flat setting should only be used if a sub can play down to 20Hz with good volume, and it has built-in low frequency protection. When the Flat Option is selected, ARC doesn't apply a roll off of the low frequencies. ARC just sends everything to the sub with the expectations that the sub will be able to handle/protect itself in playing the low frequencies. If a sub doesn't have both of these features, then the Flat Option should not be selected.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Flat setting should only be used if a sub can play down to 20Hz with good volume, and it has built-in low frequency protection. When the Flat Option is selected, ARC doesn't apply a roll off of the low frequencies. ARC just sends everything to the sub with the expectations that the sub will be able to handle/protect itself in playing the low frequencies. If a sub doesn't have both of these features, then the Flat Option should not be selected.



Hence my question.


By the way, which Paradigm subs have "built-in low frequency protection"?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Hence my question.
> 
> 
> By the way, which Paradigm subs have "built-in low frequency protection"?



Sub 12 and up.

John


----------



## jstabb

Hi, I posted this in the MRX thread and jayray recommended I post it here as well.


I just purchased an MRX-500 and no matter how many times I run ARC I can't seem to get it to apply any filters to the subwoofer channel (note: It says that it is applying filters in ARC, but measured output in REW shows no change whatsover). I don't know if I'm doing something fundamentally wrong, but I figured you guys know this stuff the best.


Here's the process I followed:

Set speaker distances on receiver
Ran ARC measurements with 5 positions distributed around my seating area.
Left targets at default
Calculated filters
Uploaded to MRX
Setup 2 sources using the same input and settings (Dolby Volume off, Bass management set to Movie) with one having Room EQ on and one having Room EQ off.
Took measurements in REW from the center of the listening area for each of the 2 sources defined above.

Note that the peak at 33hz does not change at all, even though the calculated response in ARC indicates that it is attempting to correct the peak. The only changes you see in the graph are due to the filters being applied to the front right speaker which was active when I took these measurements. I've taken measurements since with only the sub active and then the graphs are carbon copies of each other.


Any ideas? Or do I have a defective receiver?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12* /forum/post/22091124
> 
> 
> LOL!!! Not at all. Besides, this is all jayray's fault.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He has set the standard real high for everyone to achieve. If you can come close to what jayray has set, then the payoff is enormous. My graph is not as good as his; but, it's close, and I am very happy with the results.
> 
> 
> So, when I look at people's sub charts, my goal is to try to give advice to help the person to achieve a graph that looks similar to my sub's graph or jayray's sub graph, and there are a lot of folks who have achieved that goal. It's not impossible, and jayray's Sub Hall Of Fame has grown quite a bit.



BTW, do you have a separate music config from the movie? If so, is the sub still set to 120Hz and the mains lower? I have my music config set as 2.1 with sub at 80Hz and mains at 60Hz and it sounds great so far. It seems my sub, as expected, does a better job producing the lows than my mains even tho they are rated down to 29Hz.


----------



## obie_fl

Jstabb - If I didn't know better I'd say you were running in analog direct. Does the 500 even have that setting?


ETA: Actually now that I look at it again your sub is kicking in so the REW signal is getting crossed to the sub. Hmm the only thing I can think of is to reset the 500 and try to re-upload the ARC data.


----------



## chiliman

Ninja12, tngilogy, dmusoke, AVfile, etc etc. (not bothering quoting everything)


I'm in the restaurant business so just catching up, our Fridays and Saturdays are not our own!


I will start moving the sub around and take some readings. I have some flexibility with an in-wall sub line run on both sides of room back to the cabinet and can extend externally from there. With that said, sub size is a concern and limits where I can put it. I have an SVS PB12-Ultra/2, so 26"x19"x29" can be a daunting presence in the room. It should have NO problem with 20hz! What may be an issue is the room size, hence the sub choice. I have a full basement bar/game/HT room. The HT side of the room is open to the bar & gathering side of room. (see pics from my sig line, old but accurate)


I am getting better at reading the graphs. Thanks for the comparative posts, that helps a lot.


Randy


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke* /forum/post/22093843
> 
> 
> BTW, do you have a separate music config from the movie? If so, is the sub still set to 120Hz and the mains lower? I have my music config set as 2.1 with sub at 80Hz and mains at 60Hz and it sounds great so far. It seems my sub, as expected, does a better job producing the lows than my mains even tho they are rated down to 29Hz.



No, I don't have a separate Music Config. I used to have a separate Music Config, and ARC set my mains and sub the same as it did for Movie because nothing in my room changes from Music to Movie, and I took the measurements in the exact same place. For Movie and Music, ARC set my mains to 60Hz and my sub to 120Hz.


----------



## MStanic

I setup my HTPC to HDMI 6 (configured DVD as the source). I get picture but not sound whatsoever. I am using W7 64 bit with the latest drivers in everything. It's a fresh install of OS and app's. I get picture but no sound. I have a Radeon 7850 with the latest catalyst drivers connected to the D2v via HDMI from video card to HDMI6 of D2v. Windows 7 shows the AVM50 as the defaul audio device (strange that it's not D2v). Do I need drivers for the D2v to work with sound. I thought just the HDMI cable with a modern GPU would give me the video and audio together.


Also, I have a Samsung 23 inch LCD connected to the PC via DVI so that I can work from there if/when I need to do some setup/configuration of the OS or app's. What's the best way to setup resolution for the D2v. Currently, it does not fit the screen totally when the OS desktop is display or when I start a movie from Windows Media player. Any help would be most appreciated.


Thanks.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray* /forum/post/22092993
> 
> 
> Sub 12 and up.



Actually they all do according to their needs. Smaller ones have more aggressive low-end shaping than the bigger ones. Sub 2 has hardly any filtering at 15 Hz, full output, whereas entry level PDR models play almost nothing below 40-50 Hz, all filtered at the input and shifting up at higher output (there's a 32x price difference).


The rest are of course somewhere between. Note that lately there's a Monitor Sub 12 as well as the Studio Sub 12 (300W vs 1700W max sustained output).


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/22095782
> 
> 
> I setup my HTPC to HDMI 6 (configured DVD as the source). I get picture but not sound whatsoever. I am using W7 64 bit with the latest drivers in everything. It's a fresh install of OS and app's. I get picture but no sound. I have a Radeon 7850 with the latest catalyst drivers connected to the D2v via HDMI from video card to HDMI6 of D2v. Windows 7 shows the AVM50 as the defaul audio device (strange that it's not D2v). Do I need drivers for the D2v to work with sound. I thought just the HDMI cable with a modern GPU would give me the video and audio together.
> 
> 
> Also, I have a Samsung 23 inch LCD connected to the PC via DVI so that I can work from there if/when I need to do some setup/configuration of the OS or app's. What's the best way to setup resolution for the D2v. Currently, it does not fit the screen totally when the OS desktop is display or when I start a movie from Windows Media player. Any help would be most appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Mine shows up as an AVM50 as well. Try going to Control Panel -> Sound, select AVM50 from the list and click Configure. Do a Test and see if you get any sound. I had to play with it before I got any sound from my Intel HD 3000 based board.


----------



## MStanic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02* /forum/post/22098197
> 
> 
> Mine shows up as an AVM50 as well. Try going to Control Panel -> Sound, select AVM50 from the list and click Configure. Do a Test and see if you get any sound. I had to play with it before I got any sound from my Intel HD 3000 based board.



Thanks, I had tried that already but no sound. Also, what display setting should my video card be set to so that I get an optimal movie display from the GPU. I have a 6010 projector with a 90 inch diagonal Stewart film screen.


----------



## MStanic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/22100355
> 
> 
> Thanks, I had tried that already but no sound. Also, what display setting should my video card be set to so that I get an optimal movie display from the GPU. I have a 6010 projector with a 90 inch diagonal Stewart film screen.



Could it be that I'm using a very cheap HDMI cable. I spent $15 bucks for a High Speed Ethernet HDMI cable at Walmart. It's giving me the picture but not the sound at all. Worth changing the cable for a better one?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Could it be that I'm using a very cheap HDMI cable. I spent $15 bucks for a High Speed Ethernet HDMI cable at Walmart. It's giving me the picture but not the sound at all. Worth changing the cable for a better one?



Worth a try.

John


----------



## ejn1

Hi,


I have my AVM 50 set to handle all of the upconversion and I have my monitor (JVC RS15) resolution set at 1080P 60 in the Anthem. I have my Oppo BDP-93 set for pass through. Question: When I play a Bluray at 1080P24, will the output always upconvert to 1080P60? If so, how can I have it play at 24 fps without having to manual change it each time?


Thanks,

ejn1


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejn1* /forum/post/22100904
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I have my AVM 50 set to handle all of the upconversion and I have my monitor (JVC RS15) resolution set at 1080P 60 in the Anthem. I have my Oppo BDP-93 set for pass through. Question: When I play a Bluray at 1080P24, will the output always upconvert to 1080P60? If so, how can I have it play at 24 fps without having to manual change it each time?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> ejn1



EJ:


The way you have it now, a BD playing at 24p will be converted to 60p in the Anthem. With the 93 in passthrough mode, the Anthem will convert all input stream rates (24p,60i, 60p) to 60p.


I would have the Oppo do the conversion instead as it has a new Marvell processor than the Anthem VXP which is excellent as well not as as new (But decide for yourself which produces a better visual image for you as far as upconversion is concerned).


With Oppo set to output at 1080p60, the Anthem will always receive a 60p stream from the Oppo regardless of the original frame rate of the DVD/BD so no switching is required on your part.


----------



## p.las

why dosent frame to frame work in the AVM 50V?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

They are predicting 12-18 hours to accomplish the Big AVS Move.


It's my understanding that at least 9 hours of that will be for copying this thread.


See all you kids on the flip side!









--Bob


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic* /forum/post/22100355
> 
> 
> Thanks, I had tried that already but no sound. Also, what display setting should my video card be set to so that I get an optimal movie display from the GPU. I have a 6010 projector with a 90 inch diagonal Stewart film screen.



So you're not getting any sound when doing the Test in Control Panel? I don't have any experience with your card so I couldn't say what it needs to be set at. Try over in the HTPC forum and see if any of those guys know.


I use a Tartan HDMI cable from Blue Jeans. Cheap but works great.


----------



## ninja12

Welcome back!!!


----------



## [email protected]!

Hi,


when you select in Dolby Volume the "Cinema Reference" mode the sound is great!! With Dolby Volume on "OFF" the sound is thin.


When you change from Dolby Volume OFF to Cinema Reference due you must re-run ARC again??


Thanks


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37230#post_22101395
> 
> 
> 
> EJ:
> 
> 
> 
> The way you have it now, a BD playing at 24p will be converted to 60p in the Anthem. With the 93 in passthrough mode, the Anthem will convert all input stream rates (24p,60i, 60p) to 60p.
> 
> 
> 
> I would have the Oppo do the conversion instead as it has a new Marvell processor than the Anthem VXP which is excellent as well not as as new (But decide for yourself which produces a better visual image for you as far as upconversion is concerned).
> 
> 
> 
> With Oppo set to output at 1080p60, the Anthem will always receive a 60p stream from the Oppo regardless of the original frame rate of the DVD/BD so no switching is required on your part.



Why wouldn't you send 1080p24 to the JVC RS15? Does it not support 72Hz?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejn1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37230#post_22100904
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> I have my AVM 50 set to handle all of the upconversion and I have my monitor (JVC RS15) resolution set at 1080P 60 in the Anthem. I have my Oppo BDP-93 set for pass through. Question: When I play a Bluray at 1080P24, will the output always upconvert to 1080P60? If so, how can I have it play at 24 fps without having to manual change it each time?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> ejn1



You have to setup two VIDEO OUTPUT configurations for your BD player (say DVD1 1080p24, DVD2 1080p60) and manually switch by pressing the DVD button on the remote when the content drops from 1080p24 to something else (not that often if you're mostly watching blu-ray movies).


----------



## dmusoke

Unless i missed it, its manual didn't say anything about 72Hz support.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It looks like the AVS migration team have done something clever.


The tutorial post links in the first post of this thread automatically get translated into links to where those posts NOW reside here in the new forum.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

I guess the new site has screwed up the iPad App for AVS.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Discard the old iOS app. A different app is "coming soon".

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37230#post_22104653
> 
> 
> Discard the old iOS app. A different app is "coming soon".
> 
> --Bob



Already done.

John


----------



## studlygoorite

I have finally decided to upgrade the firmware on my D2v from 2.11 to 2.14d and I must say the switch from 60 fps to 24 and visa versa is much much quicker, same with the menu for the D2v, going in and out is much quicker, thank you for that. I still do get an all purple picture switching from satellite dish to satellite dish and to and from the PC too many times for my liking though. I have my projector set to YCbCr and same with the D2v. My satellite dishes do not have an option for color space, is there anything else I can try to help reduce these occurrences?


I should mention that forcing a handshake always fixes it.


John


----------



## studlygoorite

I now have my new 174" scope, AT, curved screen that I will install on Saturday, this means I will have to place my Paradigm S8s and C5 up against the wall or very close to it, should I place some bass traps or accoustic panels directly behind the speakers or might there be any other suggestions that will aid ARC?


John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37230#post_22105249
> 
> 
> I now have my new 174" scope, AT, curved screen that I will install on Saturday, this means I will have to place my Paradigm S8s and C5 up against the wall or very close to it, should I place some bass traps or accoustic panels directly behind the speakers or might there be any other suggestions that will aid ARC?
> 
> John



Explain a bit further John


You say you have an AT scope curved screen.

Do you not have to wall mount a scope screen ?

And if yes, why is it AT when the speakers are not behind the screen ?


----------



## ejn1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37230#post_22102897
> 
> 
> Why wouldn't you send 1080p24 to the JVC RS15? Does it not support 72Hz?



The RS15 will definately play 1080P24 but I was trying to use the video upconversion from the Anthem as it's every bit the equal if not more than the Oppo plus I like what it does with my other sources (Directv, Roku)... Seems like this is not an easy fix without always manually switching.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejn1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37230#post_22105894
> 
> 
> The RS15 will definately play 1080P24 but I was trying to use the video upconversion from the Anthem as it's every bit the equal if not more than the Oppo plus I like what it does with my other sources (Directv, Roku)... Seems like this is not an easy fix without always manually switching.



EJ:


Why not set the Oppo and all other sources to output at 60Hz? In this way, no switching is needed on your part. Oppo's conversion to 60p is excellent.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37230#post_22105237
> 
> 
> I have finally decided to upgrade the firmware on my D2v from 2.11 to 2.14d and I must say the switch from 60 fps to 24 and visa versa is much much quicker, same with the menu for the D2v, going in and out is much quicker, thank you for that. I still do get an all purple picture switching from satellite dish to satellite dish and to and from the PC too many times for my liking though. I have my projector set to YCbCr and same with the D2v. My satellite dishes do not have an option for color space, is there anything else I can try to help reduce these occurrences?
> 
> I should mention that forcing a handshake always fixes it.
> 
> John



I've had this problem ever since 2.10c and the solution was the same...force an HDMI handshake. With 2.14d, i always get "Purple Haze" whenever i switch between a source whose video input setting is set to HDMI input (say cable dvr) and another whose video input setting is set to None (say FM radio or CD). I have e-mailed Anthem twice on this and told they still haven't had time to duplicate it, let alone work on it. Yet its smething easy to reproduce in my setup and obviously yours as well.


I've asked others here on this forum to try replicating it and have had no takers. Maybe if you also let Anthem know, it will help. I was told by one fo the Anthem folks that AVS members only represent about 3% of their clientell so they may not be as motivated to fix it as quickly as we'd like since there's a temporary workaround.



David


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37230#post_22105720
> 
> 
> Explain a bit further John
> 
> You say you have an AT scope curved screen.
> 
> Do you not have to wall mount a scope screen ?
> 
> And if yes, why is it AT when the speakers are not behind the screen ?



Hi Stu,


You do not have to wall mount it, I will have it moved out from the wall approximately 3 to 4' so that I can get my speakers behind it. The screen itself will be hung from the ceiling and fastened to the floor.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37230#post_22106099
> 
> 
> I've had this problem ever since 2.10c and the solution was the same...force an HDMI handshake. With 2.14d, i always get "Purple Haze" whenever i switch between a source whose video input setting is set to HDMI input (say cable dvr) and another whose video input setting is set to None (say FM radio or CD). I have e-mailed Anthem twice on this and told they still haven't had time to duplicate it, let alone work on it. Yet its smething easy to reproduce in my setup and obviously yours as well.
> 
> I've asked others here on this forum to try replicating it and have had no takers. Maybe if you also let Anthem know, it will help. I was told by one fo the Anthem folks that AVS members only represent about 3% of their clientell so they may not be as motivated to fix it as quickly as we'd like since there's a temporary workaround.
> 
> David



Hi David,


I have gone to support, maybe a year ago now, I was just instructed on what settings I should have everything on and I have done that. Hoping maybe that the new 3D upgrade might do something if it involves 4 new HDMI inputs.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37230#post_22106099
> 
> 
> I have e-mailed Anthem twice on this and told they still haven't had time to duplicate it, let alone work on it.



More specifically, we can't reproduce it using any of the equipment at hand. The Moxi DVR which you use doesn't work with our local cable service as far as I know.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37230#post_22105237
> 
> 
> I have my projector set to YCbCr and same with the D2v.



Studio RGB is worth a try. This is the VXP native format. One conversion at the input from a YCbCr source shouldnt hurt the image in any case - it's a simple operation and it's happening right now anyway.


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22106891
> 
> 
> More specifically, we can't reproduce it using any of the equipment at hand. The Moxi DVR which you use doesn't work with our local cable service as far as I know.





Nick,


I experienced this issue yesterday evening. I us my CD input for my Sonos music server (distal via coax) with video input from my sat box via HDMI. When I switched to my Direct TV (same video source) I get the purple screen.


----------



## thestewman

John


Sent you a PM


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22106931
> 
> 
> Studio RGB is worth a try. This is the VXP native format. One conversion at the input from a YCbCr source shouldnt hurt the image in any case - it's a simple operation and it's happening right now anyway.



Thanks Nick, I'll give this a try when I get home from work.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37230#post_22095782
> 
> 
> I setup my HTPC to HDMI 6 (configured DVD as the source). I get picture but not sound whatsoever. I am using W7 64 bit with the latest drivers in everything. It's a fresh install of OS and app's. I get picture but no sound. I have a Radeon 7850 with the latest catalyst drivers connected to the D2v via HDMI from video card to HDMI6 of D2v. Windows 7 shows the AVM50 as the defaul audio device (strange that it's not D2v). Do I need drivers for the D2v to work with sound. I thought just the HDMI cable with a modern GPU would give me the video and audio together.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I have a Samsung 23 inch LCD connected to the PC via DVI so that I can work from there if/when I need to do some setup/configuration of the OS or app's. What's the best way to setup resolution for the D2v. Currently, it does not fit the screen totally when the OS desktop is display or when I start a movie from Windows Media player. Any help would be most appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.



In your drivers CCC control panel for ati there is a section flat panel tv or something like that, in there there is an overscan which you need to set slider to 0 not 50 to fill the screen


My ati card you need to use the adapter from one specific DVI out to get sound, the hdmi out does not provide sound.


Regards


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22106891
> 
> 
> More specifically, we can't reproduce it using any of the equipment at hand. The Moxi DVR which you use doesn't work with our local cable service as far as I know.



Nick:


The problem i believe you are referring to involved switching between the component and HDMI outputs of my Moxi. I gave up on that after extensive comms with Moxi where they said their box cannot and shouldn't be able to generate both streams simultanously so that's why it was messing up the D2v.


The problem case i'm now refererring to only involves the HDMI output from my DVR. I've had Moxi boxes for a long time from my days using the AVM30, AVM50v and now D2v with no problems. The problem is easy to reproduce... Switch back and forth between input sources where one's video input settings is set to "HDMI" and the other one set to "None". The purple screen shows up really quickly. I surmise that maybe some register settings are corrupted or not correctly or fully restored when this type of switching occurs, though obviously i'm just guessing here i'm not familiar with the innards of the D2v design & circuitry.


----------



## dmusoke

I once heard that Anthem doesn't recommend using a power conditioner for the D2v/50v. If true, would anyone know why this is the case?


I have just bought a powerline noise analyzer from ebay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Entech-Wideband-Powerline-Noise-and-EMI-Analyzer-Sniffer-Monster-Cable-with-Case-/310406312969?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4845a87409 )


The audible output from this analyzer(that you plug into your AC wall socket) was the worst kind of filth and crud one can ever possible hear! Depending on the AC wall sockets around the house, i could clearly decode local AM radio stations. AM radio broadcasts usinf carrier frequencies from 520 kHz to 1.610 MHz. This means the electrical wiring in my house (and yours as well) is one long AM antenna!


I don't think the power supplies of many audio and video systems are equipped to filter RF or sub-RF frequencies that well. I wonder if some AVS'ers here use power conditioners, not just surge suppressors or those miracle units from Monster Inc!


I have ordered the Torus AVR15 from Plitron Inc.(Canadian firm) as it not only cleans up the power line, but completely isolates the house mains from the AC outputs via one big toroidal transformer. The plus side of this is that the transfomer has high dynamic headroom and is able to produce 300 Amps for 1/2 AC cycle, 150 Amps for 1 second and 75 Amps for 10 seconds due to the energy stored within the transformer coils


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37230#post_22106079
> 
> 
> EJ:
> 
> Why not set the Oppo and all other sources to output at 60Hz? In this way, no switching is needed on your part. Oppo's conversion to 60p is excellent.



Why not take advantage of his display's ability to display a 24fps source at a whole multiple of 24Hz without judder introduced by 3:2 pulldown? There is NO conversion necessary, only frame repetition.


Ideally what you want is the new passthrough mode of the 3D upgrade board when it gets released by Anthem. For now just rename DVD1 to something like "BD-24p" and DVD2 to something like "BD-60p" so you don't forget to switch.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22106931
> 
> 
> Studio RGB is worth a try. This is the VXP native format. One conversion at the input from a YCbCr source shouldnt hurt the image in any case - it's a simple operation



Interesting. I used to recommend YCbCr 4:2:2 all the way but have recently noticed wavy lines on bright red objects with the AVM set this way. I think this was introduced by a firmware update in the AVM some time in the last few months. Anyway I switched to Studio RGB in the AVM and the problem is gone. The picture is excellent!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22108444
> 
> 
> Why not take advantage of his display's ability to display a 24fps source at a whole multiple of 24Hz without judder introduced by 3:2 pulldown? There is NO conversion necessary, only frame repetition.
> 
> Ideally what you want is the new passthrough mode of the 3D upgrade board when it gets released by Anthem. For now just rename DVD1 to something like "BD-24p" and DVD2 to something like "BD-60p" so you don't forget to switch.



Thing is that when the op wants to watch broadcast TV from satellite/cable, the Anthem will then be forced to convert from 60hz to 24Hz then have the projector up-convert to some multiple of 24Hz. I'm trying having him make this unnecessary step as converting 24Hz tp 60Hz in the Oppo isextremely clean and transparent, the only component that would ever give him 24Hz rates. All others would be 60Hz sources. Regardless, a 3:2 pulldown will have to be done somewhere in the video chain either the Oppo or the Anthem.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Thing is that when the op wants to watch broadcast TV from satellite/cable, the Anthem will then be forced to convert from 60hz to 24Hz then have the projector up-convert to some multiple of 24Hz.



No, he's not going to be watching sat / cable on the DVD1 input. He has to switch to the SAT / CABLE input anyway which would remain configured at 60Hz. Switching between physical source components should be as elegant as before.


note: The switch back to DVD will default to the last used one of DVD1 (24p) or DVD2 (60p). Simply press DVD a second time to toggle between them, if required. On power-up it should default to the most commonly used DVD1.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22108208
> 
> 
> I once heard that Anthem doesn't recommend using a power conditioner for the D2v/50v. If true, would anyone know why this is the case?
> 
> I have just bought a powerline noise analyzer from ebay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Entech-Wideband-Powerline-Noise-and-EMI-Analyzer-Sniffer-Monster-Cable-with-Case-/310406312969?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4845a87409 )
> 
> The audible output from this analyzer(that you plug into your AC wall socket) was the worst kind of filth and crud one can ever possible hear! Depending on the AC wall sockets around the house, i could clearly decode local AM radio stations. AM radio broadcasts usinf carrier frequencies from 520 kHz to 1.610 MHz. This means the electrical wiring in my house (and yours as well) is one long AM antenna!
> 
> I don't think the power supplies of many audio and video systems are equipped to filter RF or sub-RF frequencies that well. I wonder if some AVS'ers here use power conditioners, not just surge suppressors or those miracle units from Monster Inc!
> 
> I have ordered the Torus AVR15 from Plitron Inc.(Canadian firm) as it not only cleans up the power line, but completely isolates the house mains from the AC outputs via one big toroidal transformer. The plus side of this is that the transfomer has high dynamic headroom and is able to produce 300 Amps for 1/2 AC cycle, 150 Amps for 1 second and 75 Amps for 10 seconds due to the energy stored within the transformer coils



Interesting device, this sniffer. So it converts RFI into an audible spectrum? Reminds me of those PC firewall programs that report every single network anomoly to the user so they think they are under attack. Ahhh, ignorance is bliss!


Most good gear have filtered IEC sockets, catching most noise after the power cord, if not you can install one. No need for fancy power cords. Just remove and replace the IEC socket with a filtered one of the correct amperage and pinout (about $10-20 at an electronics supply store or $7 at Digikey.com).


I don't like the idea of the devices that reconstruct power (eg: PS Audio Power Plant) unless you live in some remote uncivilized part of the world that has extremely poor power. No matter how massive they are going to limit current and generate heat as they will never be 100% efficient. That spells potential serious running issues, not to mention reports of making amps sound worse.


However I need something for convenience and protection from lightning so I have a Panamax Pro power bar. I only wanted it for components that are always on, since they are at risk the most, but the rules say the whole system has to plugged into it to be covered under their guarantee. It has a certain amount of RFI filtration so I can tick that box in my mental checklist and move on. Oh they are also handy for identifying improperly wired outlets or bad ground. Panamax has "fancier" models but this is something simple and well-built, no gimmicky marketing claims like Monster.


I heard the Plitrons are very good - I wonder what the efficiency is. My Bryston amps use Torus transformers inside so nothing to fiddle with there. All the gear in that system have overdesigned power supplies (+filtered IECs) and rarely left on so I don't bother with any power bar at all.


So I believe Anthem's concern is there is a wide range of products out there, including some rather finnicky designs, that their product could be plugged into and they can't guarantee support if you're having issues.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22108926
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Thing is that when the op wants to watch broadcast TV from satellite/cable, the Anthem will then be forced to convert from 60hz to 24Hz then have the projector up-convert to some multiple of 24Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> No, he's not going to be watching sat / cable on the DVD1 input. He has to switch to the SAT / CABLE input anyway which would remain configured at 60Hz. Switching between physical source components should be as elegant as before.
> 
> note: The switch back to DVD will default to the last used one of DVD1 (24p) or DVD2 (60p). Simply press DVD a second time to toggle between them, if required. On power-up it should default to the most commonly used DVD1.
Click to expand...


Gotcha! Thanx AV...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22109075
> 
> 
> Interesting device, this sniffer. So it converts RFI into an audible spectrum? Reminds me of those PC firewall programs that report every single network anomoly to the user so they think they are under attack. Ahhh, ignorance is bliss!
> 
> Most good gear have filtered IEC sockets, catching most noise after the power cord, if not you can install one. No need for fancy power cords. Just remove and replace the IEC socket with a filtered one of the correct amperage and pinout (about $10-20 at an electronics supply store or $7 at Digikey.com).
> 
> I don't like the idea of the devices that reconstruct power (eg: PS Audio Power Plant) unless you live in some remote uncivilized part of the world that has extremely poor power. No matter how massive they are going to limit current and generate heat as they will never be 100% efficient. That spells potential serious running issues, not to mention reports of making amps sound worse.
> 
> However I need something for convenience and protection from lightning so I have a Panamax Pro power bar. I only wanted it for components that are always on, since they are at risk the most, but the rules say the whole system has to plugged into it to be covered under their guarantee. It has a certain amount of RFI filtration so I can tick that box in my mental checklist and move on. Oh they are also handy for identifying improperly wired outlets or bad ground. Panamax has "fancier" models but this is something simple and well-built, no gimmicky marketing claims like Monster.
> 
> I heard the Plitrons are very good - I wonder what the efficiency is. My Bryston amps use Torus transformers inside so nothing to fiddle with there. All the gear in that system have overdesigned power supplies (+filtered IECs) and rarely left on so I don't bother with any power bar at all.
> 
> So I believe Anthem's concern is there is a wide range of products out there, including some rather finnicky designs, that their product could be plugged into and they can't guarantee support if you're having issues.



Ahhh ...never thought of IEC filtered sockets at all. Thanx, its a great idea. BTW, Bryston helped Piltron design and beta test the Torus line conditioners and is now carrying their own (designed by plitron) conditioners under the BIT line(Bryston Isolation Technology).


David


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22106931
> 
> 
> Studio RGB is worth a try. This is the VXP native format. One conversion at the input from a YCbCr source shouldnt hurt the image in any case - it's a simple operation and it's happening right now anyway.



Well as luck would have it my new projector only has options for YCbCr and YPbPr, tried Studio RGB out of the D2v and got the purple haze, have now switched to Extended RGB.


Update, just got it with Extended RGB will go back to YCbCr to match with the projector.


----------



## dmusoke

Anyone using the AS-EQ1 subwoofer equalizer(from SVS) with ARC? Please PM me as i need some help in setting things up







!


Thanks,

David


----------



## ejn1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22108926
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Thing is that when the op wants to watch broadcast TV from satellite/cable, the Anthem will then be forced to convert from 60hz to 24Hz then have the projector up-convert to some multiple of 24Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> No, he's not going to be watching sat / cable on the DVD1 input. He has to switch to the SAT / CABLE input anyway which would remain configured at 60Hz. Switching between physical source components should be as elegant as before.
> 
> note: The switch back to DVD will default to the last used one of DVD1 (24p) or DVD2 (60p). Simply press DVD a second time to toggle between them, if required. On power-up it should default to the most commonly used DVD1.
Click to expand...


Thanks you guys... I'm going to try the multiple input option. Seems like a good work around.


Many thanks for the all the help!


----------



## MStanic

Help.


Something is wrong and I think it's the Anthem settings. Basically, as I indicated in a few other recent posts, I get no sound out of my HDMI connection from my HTPC's GPU into the D2v using HDMI6 on the D2v. I believe it's the settings on my D2v and/or the way I have it connected possible. Thus far, I only get video and no sound whatsoever.


Tried two HDMI cables.

Tried HDMI 6 and HDMI 7 on D2v. Have about five other sources that all work okay.

Tried 3 different/new Radeon video cards. Tried two 7850's (Sapphire and Gigabit) and I am now using a Sapphire 7870 also no sound.

Tried drivers 12.3, 12.4 and now have 12.6 beta from AMD.


Basically, I am using an Epson 6010 which connects back to the D2v for as the main video display. I then have my normal sources connected to the D2v (PS3, Apple TV, Bluray DVD). Also, I have the second HDMI out from the projector going into the HDMI input of the Panny Bluray player for 3D (dual HDMI on the back of ths bluray player). The other HDMI from the Panny bluray player goes to the Anthem for audio. All of this works fine.


My video card is connected to HDMI 6 of the D2v. I have this source setup available as the second press (DVD1 source is for Apple TV while a second press of this source/DVD2 changes it to HTPC). I have scaler input set to HDMI 6 and the Audio In setting to Dig HDMI with Auto Dig set to Yes (have tried No also for Auto Dig but no difference).


No sound whatsoever. Only picture is output. When I press 7 for onscreen and go to info, I get the Audio piece showing a toggled setting. Just flashes constantly between


Audio Source 8ch Fs 48Khz

2ch Fs N/A


Just flashes between the 8ch and 2ch and no sound. It's like it's trying to lock onto 8ch or 2ch. I am using the latest W7 64bit OS and drivers including all updates. I have my AMD device set as my default sound device in windows. I get no sound when trying to run any channel (Stereo, Quadrophonic, 5.1, 7.1) test via the W7 control panel for my AMD High Definition device.


Help plz.


----------



## MStanic

Bizarre,


So I went to Nvidia, GTX 670, and this card is worse. Not only does it not produce audio but the HDMI out from the card doesn't even give me video. It gave it to me once, when I reset the connection as it was turned on and then I lost it and it has not come back since. I then tried a DVI to HDMI adapter but the connection is unstable. I had it and lost it using the adapter and now I can't get it back. The Samsung LCD monitor for the PC always displays okay though.


What I notice is that neither Nvidia or AMD are detecting an HDMI audio connection as being available. I can select the display as the default windows device, when it's showing up on the Nvidia which is really flaky whereas the AMD always locked onto the video signal via HDMI. However, the HDMI audio portion of the display/GPU shows up as greyed out or not available in both the Nvidia and AMD cards under Playback Devices. This is why I cannot get audio via HDMI. Dunno what's happening now. Well, hopefully someone chimes in. Hope you all are having a good weekend.


----------



## tranle

For MStanic,

did you install the NVIDIA HDMI audio driver ?


----------



## ejn1

All,


Does the AVM 50 have a pass through mode for video processing?


Thanks,

ejn1111


----------



## MStanic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22116724
> 
> 
> For MStanic,
> 
> did you install the NVIDIA HDMI audio driver ?



Yah, I did. I always do a custom install on the drivers to see what it's going to install and the Nvidia Audio driver is checked off as part of the install. I assume that's what you mean?


As far as the ports on the back on the Asus 670GTX, they seem to be okay as testing each one with the Samsung LED monitor always gives me the main display from the card. Even the HDMI one when I use an HDMI to DVI adapter. However, when using the HDMI to HDMI or DVI to HDMI from the GTX 670 to the D2v I simply don't get anything showing 99% of the time. I have only seen a display show up once or twice but then I lose it if/when I switch inputs on the D2v or shutdown and restart the PC. Funny, the AMD cards (both 7850's and 7870) always had a display via the HDMI out. However, I have not heard any audio from any of the cards and driver versions that I have tried.


I really don't know how Nvidia and AMD can sell these products as advertised to work over HDMI. I recognize that there is a lot of protocol/handshaking that needs to occur but these GPU's should be as solid as a Bluray player with respect to their HDMI out. There is plenty of forum discussion all describing no audio and/or video over HDMI and/or lost picture signal all over the internet. I didn't realize that Nvidia was plagued with this until I decided to switch to it today only to encounter the same issue but probably worse as the display to the D2v over HDMI simply does not work.


What to do?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bushgeroge551*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22117117
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Battlefield 3 (BF3) takes massive online warfare to a whole new level of immersion. Those of you familiar with Battlefield: Bad Company 2 will notice the similarities, however BF3 turns the formula back towards the wider mix of infantry and vehicle warfare that was in Battlefield 2. Fighter aircraft take to the skies again, there are over 20 driveable vehicles, and a whole new range of vehicle and weapons modifications provide something for every style of gameplay. With 9 huge multiplayer maps and 5 game modes (Team Deathmatch, Squad Deathmatch, Rush, Squad Rush and Conquest), playing BF3 is as close as many of us will get to the feeling of being in the thick of a large-scale battle. It's no exaggeration to say that Battlefield 3 really pours on the adrenaline-charged action in precisely the way that many BF2 fans have been eagerly awaiting.




I think you're on the wrong thread.

John


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22116926
> 
> 
> I really don't know how Nvidia and AMD can sell these products as advertised to work over HDMI. I recognize that there is a lot of protocol/handshaking that needs to occur but these GPU's should be as solid as a Bluray player with respect to their HDMI out. There is plenty of forum discussion all describing no audio and/or video over HDMI and/or lost picture signal all over the internet. I didn't realize that Nvidia was plagued with this until I decided to switch to it today only to encounter the same issue but probably worse as the display to the D2v over HDMI simply does not work.
> 
> What to do?


I don't know what's going on with your setup, but I can say that I'm getting stellar audio AND video over HDMI with my GeForce GTX 550 Ti connected to both a Pioneer VSX-21TXH and an Anthem AVM 50V.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejn1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22116910
> 
> 
> All,
> 
> Does the AVM 50 have a pass through mode for video processing?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> ejn1111



It does not.


If your concern is getting the output video format to automatically change to match whatever's happening on the input video, then you are out of luck. That's not how the AVM 50 works.


If your concern is sending, say, 1080p video through the AVM 50 without degradation, then no worries. Set the input Picture adjustment settings in the AVM 50 for your 1080p Source to their default values, set 1080p video output, and the video processor basically has no work to do so it doesn't change things.

--Bob


----------



## p.las

after i run ARC , i have checket the levels on AIX test disc. One thing that bouth my attension is....... Why is ARC set the Sublevels to high - 2-3db higher than all the other speakers. And this is messured with a radio skack, that are known to messure to low, in the low frekvensies...........from what i know you shout add about 2db to get the right readings. i dont know if this is comming inn to play, but my room gain is 2.5db


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22120004
> 
> 
> after i run ARC , i have checket the levels on AIX test disc. One thing that bouth my attension is....... Why is ARC set the Sublevels to high - 2-3db higher than all the other speakers. And this is messured with a radio skack, that are known to messure to low, in the low frekvensies...........from what i know you shout add about 2db to get the right readings. i dont know if this is comming inn to play, but my room gain is 2.5db


Do not worry about these readings. First, they are very good as they are. Also, it is quite unreliable to measure LF noise, as it is affected by various factors -- the meter being one as you mentioned. Response smoothness and extension being another. In the case of AIX, even the crossover point will matter because the LFE signal on the disc is wideband. The SPL will vary somewhat depending on the crossover frequency.


Even if the meter had said "0 dB" same as the main channels, that carries little weight with me, as the amount of bass you need can be affected by how loud you play content. Not sure if ARC does this, but Audyssey tunes for "ref level movie" playback. Except no one really does that in everyday, normal use of their systems. Most folks play back 10-20-30 dB lower, and that means more bass is needed. So now they have DEQ to attempt to compensate, but that's another story.


Anyway, bass balance cannot be decided using a meter, only your ears, playing familiar content.


----------



## MStanic

Okay, I gave up on drawing audio from the GPU's HDMI.


I get video okay and connected my motherboards (Rampage III Formula - XFI 2 HD Audio) toslink out to the Anthem. I get sound now but only 2 channel. I guess that's a limitation of SPDIF and/or Toslink? In other words, it only carrie two channel. The D2v is detecting a PCM feed but only two channel. Is that correct until I can get HDMI working from the GPU to the D2v with audio. This happens when I play ripped movies from Pavtue in an M4V (iTunes) format. These same files will play with full HD audio via iTunes however from my Apple TV on the D2v. Also, if I stick in a Bluray disc in my HTPC's drive, it will play the full HD audio (5.1 or 7.1) from the same toslink cable. Is it my ripped files that won't carry the full HD audio other than in iTunes/Apple TV? They don't carry the full HD audio when I play them from Windows Media Center using Arcsoft Total Media Theater Five. It will play the full HD audio fom the Bluray drive though of the HTPC.


Sorry to bombard this thread with HTPC stuff but I just need some help with this setup, thanks ALL.


----------



## mateored

I'm wondering if you good folks could help me interpret my ARC graphs since I'm still not quite happy with my sound. My living room is a nightmare, but I'm not sure how much I can do with it, given our tiny house and the WAF. I'm running a 5.1 system with the fronts and TV all in a large custom-built MDF built-in bookshelf/cabinets. The fronts are small monitors sitting on the MDF countertop. The center is mounted to the wall above the TV, so it is about 1 foot higher than the FL and FR. The sub is about 5 feet to the right of the FR, and there really isn't anywhere else to put it. The surrounds are in-ceiling speakers. The room is open to the dining alcove and a couple of hallways, as well.


Here's a full list of my equipment:


Processor: Anthem AVM 50v

Amps: 2 x Linn 5125 (each amp has 5x125W)

Front Skrs: Linn Katan (Aktiv)

Center: Linn Trikan (Aktiv)

Surrounds: Linn Custom 2K 104-C (passive)

Sub: Linn Akurate 221 (10" driver, 500W)

BDP: Oppo BDP-93

DirecTV

Mac Mini (this is my primary source for music)


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22123543
> 
> 
> Okay, I gave up on drawing audio from the GPU's HDMI.
> 
> I get video okay and connected my motherboards (Rampage III Formula - XFI 2 HD Audio) toslink out to the Anthem. I get sound now but only 2 channel. I guess that's a limitation of SPDIF and/or Toslink? In other words, it only carrie two channel. The D2v is detecting a PCM feed but only two channel. Is that correct until I can get HDMI working from the GPU to the D2v with audio. This happens when I play ripped movies from Pavtue in an M4V (iTunes) format. These same files will play with full HD audio via iTunes however from my Apple TV on the D2v. Also, if I stick in a Bluray disc in my HTPC's drive, it will play the full HD audio (5.1 or 7.1) from the same toslink cable. Is it my ripped files that won't carry the full HD audio other than in iTunes/Apple TV? They don't carry the full HD audio when I play them from Windows Media Center using Arcsoft Total Media Theater Five. It will play the full HD audio fom the Bluray drive though of the HTPC.
> 
> Sorry to bombard this thread with HTPC stuff but I just need some help with this setup, thanks ALL.



I know this is OT but just some ideas


Run Mediainfo on your ripped files and see what audio files are contained in the rips. There may be several.

If there are multiple audio files somewhere in you playback GUI you would need to select the correct file.

I gave up on the HTPC and use a Popcorn Hour C200 and stream full Bluray video in 1080p/ 24 or 180P/60 with DTS and Dolby HD audio.

Cheaper and it works

I have usually have to select the correct audio file from the Bluray menu

By the way how are you ripping the Blurays ?


----------



## MStanic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22123825
> 
> 
> I know this is OT but just some ideas
> 
> Run Mediainfo on your ripped files and see what audio files are contained in the rips. There may be several.
> 
> If there are multiple audio files somewhere in you playback GUI you would need to select the correct file.
> 
> I gave up on the HTPC and use a Popcorn Hour C200 and stream full Bluray video in 1080p/ 24 or 180P/60 with DTS and Dolby HD audio.
> 
> Cheaper and it works
> 
> I have usually have to select the correct audio file from the Bluray menu
> 
> By the way how are you ripping the Blurays ?



I am ripping using Pavtube to an M4V, iTunes format, as my original goal was just to use Apple TV. I did notice, however, that an MKV playback (in other words, using Pavtube's Byte Copy) does give me full 5.1, 6.1 or 7.1 playback over the toslink connection.


Too bad I can't afford Kaleidescape as that would be the current ultimate solution. There is nothing better until Apple eventuall does all of it correctly via Apple TV and iTunes. Then, Kaleidescape should be worried but I'm sure they are watching closely as it's just a matter of time before Apple replaces the disc format.


Oh well, thanks.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mateored*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22123769
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if you good folks could help me interpret my ARC graphs since I'm still not quite happy with my sound. My living room is a nightmare, but I'm not sure how much I can do with it, given our tiny house and the WAF. I'm running a 5.1 system with the fronts and TV all in a large custom-built MDF built-in bookshelf/cabinets. The fronts are small monitors sitting on the MDF countertop. The center is mounted to the wall above the TV, so it is about 1 foot higher than the FL and FR. The sub is about 5 feet to the right of the FR, and there really isn't anywhere else to put it. The surrounds are in-ceiling speakers. The room is open to the dining alcove and a couple of hallways, as well.
> 
> Here's a full list of my equipment:
> 
> Processor: Anthem AVM 50v
> 
> Amps: 2 x Linn 5125 (each amp has 5x125W)
> 
> Front Skrs: Linn Katan (Aktiv)
> 
> Center: Linn Trikan (Aktiv)
> 
> Surrounds: Linn Custom 2K 104-C (passive)
> 
> Sub: Linn Akurate 221 (10" driver, 500W)
> 
> BDP: Oppo BDP-93
> 
> DirecTV
> 
> Mac Mini (this is my primary source for music)



Red = Current (pre-ARC) graph of your speakers

Green = ARC-corrected curve of your speakers

Blue = Targeted response


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mateored*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37260#post_22123769
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if you good folks could help me interpret my ARC graphs since I'm still not quite happy with my sound. My living room is a nightmare, but I'm not sure how much I can do with it, given our tiny house and the WAF. I'm running a 5.1 system with the fronts and TV all in a large custom-built MDF built-in bookshelf/cabinets. The fronts are small monitors sitting on the MDF countertop. The center is mounted to the wall above the TV, so it is about 1 foot higher than the FL and FR. The sub is about 5 feet to the right of the FR, and there really isn't anywhere else to put it. The surrounds are in-ceiling speakers. The room is open to the dining alcove and a couple of hallways, as well.
> 
> Here's a full list of my equipment:
> 
> Processor: Anthem AVM 50v
> 
> Amps: 2 x Linn 5125 (each amp has 5x125W)
> 
> Front Skrs: Linn Katan (Aktiv)
> 
> Center: Linn Trikan (Aktiv)
> 
> Surrounds: Linn Custom 2K 104-C (passive)
> 
> Sub: Linn Akurate 221 (10" driver, 500W)
> 
> BDP: Oppo BDP-93
> 
> DirecTV
> 
> Mac Mini (this is my primary source for music)
> 
> 
> . . . .



Given the situation in your room layout and the nature of your speakers these charts actually look pretty good (although there is certainly room for improvement).


Since you are not happy with the sound you are getting now, let's check a couple basics first:


1) For every Source you are using in Setup > Source Setup check to make sure you have Room EQ = ON (which enables ARC for that Source) and Dolby Volume OFF.


2) Make sure you have your speaker distances entered in Setup > Listener Position. This has to be done manually.


3) Check that your Subwoofe Polarity and Phase are correct. You can do this using the settings in Speaker Configuration > Bass Manager Movie and Music. Select the FM tuner, select a position in between stations so your hear the static hiss, make sure you have the audio surround mode set to Stereo (press Mode and use Up/Down arrow), and turn the volume up the comfortably loud level. Now for each of the two Polarity choices, find the Phase setting that gives the maximum bass output in that hiss (the low end frequencies of the hiss). Then compare the two Polarity/Phase combos you've found and pick the one that produces the most bass out of those two.


All of the above can be done without having to re-Measure for ARC. Your existing ARC solution will just sound better when paired with the correct settings for the above.


4) Your Surround speakers have very poor bass output. Your Sub is covering for those, but if you were EXPECTING better bass output from your Surrounds you should check that they are installed properly. If they have separate input jacks for bass, be sure the coupling bars are in place so that both sets of input jacks are getting fed the speaker signal. If they have a "bass port" you may need to open that. Any change here would require re-Measuring for ARC.


5) Your Left Front / Right Front speakers are hot in treble from about 4KHz to 12KHz. This is not that uncommon for small speakers. You can raise the Max EQ Frequency setting in the ARC Targets window above its default 5KHz setting to raise how high up ARC will apply correction. Try10KHz for example. You can do this (make the Targets change and re-Calculate to see the result) without having to re-Measure. Now your fronts need quite a bit of correction at lower frequencies, and re-distributing ARC's correction resources up to higher frequencies may result in less complete correction lower down. So play around and see if you can find a compromise setting for Max EQ Frequency which provides more correction in Treble without falling apart as far as the good correction you had now in lower frequencies. Again, you can do such experiments of Targets/Calculate without having to re-meaure. And then Upload the new result to the Anthem if you find a new result that looks like an improvement.


6) Your Sub is not particularly good in low bass. It is good down to about 30Hz, which is pretty typical of smaller subs. That means you are missing out on the lowest octave of bass (down to 15Hz) which is more felt than heard. This may very well be the best that 10" sub can do -- i.e., to do better you may have to change to a better Sub. You say you have no flexibility on positioning the sub, but if you find you can move it closer to a wall -- or even better closer to a corner -- then you will get "boundary gain" which improves the lowest bass output. Also check to make sure there is no setting on the sub limiting its low frequency output. This might be a switch saying "near a wall". Tell the sub it it NOT near a wall. Or it may be a knob with adjustment in the very low frequency range (say 20-40Hz), Disable that or set it to its lowest frequency to allow maximum low bas output from the sub. While you are at it, disable any internal "crossover" in the sub which is limiting its HIGH bass frequency response. Either disable the crossover in the sub or crank it up to its highest frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. This is important so that the sub can go high enough to fill in the weak bass output of your Surrounds. This may be masquerading as a "THX" setting -- which imposes an 80Hz crossover. Turn off such a setting. Any changes in the settings on the sub itself -- or shifting of position of the Sub -- will require you to re-Measure for ARC. The "Tools > Quick Measure" option in ARC will let you see a real time chart of uncorrected Sub output, so you can see the impact of shifting the sub in position (for example) while you are doing it.


ETA: On Source Setup settings, if you are using ANALOG audio input from any of your Sources, make sure you are using ANALOG-DSP and not ANALOG-DIRECT in Source Setup for them, otherwise ARC can not work with that input.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater

Bob,


Reading your post raised two questions to mind (they are probably answered somewhere else in the 1244 pages of posts, I'm sure):


Why did you specifically mention to turn Dolby Volume off with room EQ on? I thought that the Anthem implementation of Dolby Volume took into account ARC settings? Or is this just personal preference?
I had a similar situation with my surrounds. They go down to 80 but ARC put the crossover at 130. In your experience should you "force" ARC to put a lower crossover and just see? When I do that, my calculated response is still lower than the target.


Your post made me look at a few things in a different light. Thanks for that.


Regards,

Theo


----------



## mateored

Bob - Thanks for the excellent response! I need to spend some time checking these things out and playing around with my various settings. My surround speakers don't go below 100Hz, so I'm not really surprised by that result. My sub is supposed to go down as low as 10Hz, although it starts rolling off at a higher frequency. According to hometheater.com, "The Akurate 221's close-miked response, normalized to the level at 80 Hz, indicates that the lower –3dB point is at 29 Hz and the –6dB point is at 25 Hz." I will definitely check the sub's settings to see if I have a lower limit imposed on it. It is highly adjustable. I understand that this is a small sub (Linn actually calls it a "bass reinforcement speaker") made more for music than HT. That's actually ok with me since I am more interested in music and I don't want to shake the floor too much in our little house and bug my wife and kids!


Anyway, I'll start tweaking and report back.


BTW, I mis-spoke -- this sub actually has a very small 8" driver, so I'm not expecting any thunder. On the other hand, this is a pretty serious piece of gear. I bought it second hand for a good price, but this thing listed for $3750 new, if you can believe it. Linn later replaced it with the larger Akurate 226.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22125692
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Reading your post raised two questions to mind (they are probably answered somewhere else in the 1244 pages of posts, I'm sure):
> 
> Why did you specifically mention to turn Dolby Volume off with room EQ on? I thought that the Anthem implementation of Dolby Volume took into account ARC settings? Or is this just personal preference?
> I had a similar situation with my surrounds. They go down to 80 but ARC put the crossover at 130. In your experience should you "force" ARC to put a lower crossover and just see? When I do that, my calculated response is still lower than the target.
> 
> Your post made me look at a few things in a different light. Thanks for that.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Theo



In the poster's charts, the raw, uncorrected output from his Surrounds -- the Measured curve -- is clearly weak in bass. ARC really did choose a very reasonable crossover value given the actual output of those speakers. Now there may be reasons his Surrounds were underperforming in bass when measured, which is why I suggested he check a few things.


In your case, I haven't seen your charts, but your statement that your Surrounds go down to 80Hz may not be correct. It is often the case that speakers, particularly smaller speakers are "rated" in marketing down to a frequency below what their actual output can match. I'd have to see what ARC was seeing (the charts) to see if there really was a disconnect in ARC's calculation.


The crossover does not work like a switch. It rolls into effect over about an octave (a factor of 2 in frequency). So for an 80Hz crossover to be "a good choice" you'd need to see that ARC was able to correct the Measured response of those speakers to match the intended Target response down to 40Hz -- within a couple dB. For a 130Hz crossover to be good, ARC would only have to be able to get the speakers responding well down to 65Hz -- which is not far from the 80Hz figure you think is correct for them.


Dolby Volume may be a good tool for some people in some listening circumstances -- i've yet to find a case where I like to use it, but that's just me. But EVERYBODY agrees that for critical listening -- e.g., when gauging whether ARC has done a good job for example -- you should listen with Dolby Volume OFF.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mateored*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22126118
> 
> 
> Bob - Thanks for the excellent response! I need to spend some time checking these things out and playing around with my various settings. My surround speakers don't go below 100Hz, so I'm not really surprised by that result. My sub is supposed to go down as low as 10Hz, although it starts rolling off at a higher frequency. According to hometheater.com, "The Akurate 221's close-miked response, normalized to the level at 80 Hz, indicates that the lower –3dB point is at 29 Hz and the –6dB point is at 25 Hz." I will definitely check the sub's settings to see if I have a lower limit imposed on it. It is highly adjustable. I understand that this is a small sub (Linn actually calls it a "bass reinforcement speaker") made more for music than HT. That's actually ok with me since I am more interested in music and I don't want to shake the floor too much in our little house and bug my wife and kids!
> 
> Anyway, I'll start tweaking and report back.
> 
> BTW, I mis-spoke -- this sub actually has a very small 8" driver, so I'm not expecting any thunder. On the other hand, this is a pretty serious piece of gear. I bought it second hand for a good price, but this thing listed for $3750 new, if you can believe it. Linn later replaced it with the larger Akurate 226.



For the sub, that article's -3dB point of 29Hz is consistent with what ARC is seeing in the Measured curved for the sub.


Music bass typically goes down to about 40Hz -- with exceptions for things like pipe organs the can go substantially lower. The most important part of home theater bass is in the 50-80Hz range where bass sound effects (e.g., explosions) occur. However effects bass can go QUITE a bit lower. Enthusiasts typically look for sub response that is flat down to 20Hz and extends to 15Hz with a little drop, and that goes up to 120Hz at the other end.


Another thing to think about is that it is possible for a sub to Measure well at low volume even though it is not capable of performing that well at higher volume. Subs work by "pressurizing" the entire volume of air in the listening room -- which is why bass seems to come from everywhere instead of from the sub itself. You have to huff A LOT OF AIR to pressurize a normal sized listening room at 20Hz or lower, and a 10 inch sub -- much less an 8 inch sub -- will be hard pressed to do that. Basically this means that for the sub to work well AT VOLUME it has to be properly sized to match the 3-dimensional volume of air space in your listening room. Or you have to solve the problem by using more than one sub.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22126663
> 
> 
> In the poster's charts, the raw, uncorrected output from his Surrounds -- the Measured curve -- is clearly weak in bass. ARC really did choose a very reasonable crossover value given the actual output of those speakers. Now there may be reasons his Surrounds were underperforming in bass when measured, which is why I suggested he check a few things.
> 
> In your case, I haven't seen your charts, but your statement that your Surrounds go down to 80Hz may not be correct. It is often the case that speakers, particularly smaller speakers are "rated" in marketing down to a frequency below what their actual output can match. I'd have to see what ARC was seeing (the charts) to see if there really was a disconnect in ARC's calculation.
> 
> The crossover does not work like a switch. It rolls into effect over about an octave (a factor of 2 in frequency). So for an 80Hz crossover to be "a good choice" you'd need to see that ARC was able to correct the Measured response of those speakers to match the intended Target response down to 40Hz -- within a couple dB. For a 130Hz crossover to be good, ARC would only have to be able to get the speakers responding well down to 65Hz -- which is not far from the 80Hz figure you think is correct for them.
> 
> 
> 
> Dolby Volume may be a good tool for some people in some listening circumstances -- i've yet to find a case where I like to use it, but that's just me. But EVERYBODY agrees that for critical listening -- e.g., when gauging whether ARC has done a good job for example -- you should listen with Dolby Volume OFF.
> 
> --Bob


  
 


Bob, here's my corrected graph. I had ARC calculate up to 20kHz. But you can see with the left and right surrounds (which are Revel C15 in-ceiling that go down to 80Hz in their specs). It's below the target curve when I set the cutoff for those speakers at 80Hz. When I run ARC by default, it gives me a 130Hz cutoff. To my untrained eye, ARC seems to do a wonderful job both on the graph and in real-world in my setup. The sub graph is absolutely ruler-flat on the target plot from 60Hz down to 20Hz. It's truly remarkable.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22126809
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> Bob, here's my corrected graph. I had ARC calculate up to 20kHz. But you can see with the left and right surrounds (which are Revel C15 in-ceiling that go down to 80Hz in their specs). It's below the target curve when I set the cutoff for those speakers at 80Hz. When I run ARC by default, it gives me a 130Hz cutoff. To my untrained eye, ARC seems to do a wonderful job both on the graph and in real-world in my setup. The sub graph (which I didn't upload) is absolutely ruler-flat on the target plot from 60Hz down to 20Hz. It's truly remarkable.



Well you can see from the red Measured curve -- which is the raw, uncorrected output of those two Surrounds -- that they have a problem in bass.


At 80Hz the Left Surround is down about 4-5dB, which is consistent with the sort of marketing tricks you'll sometime see. I.e., the lower frequency spec of the speaker is not where the crossover should BEGIN but where the usable response of the speaker is nearly at an end.


But the Right Surround speaker is much worse -- down about 8dB at 80Hz. Something about that right speaker is making it underperform the left speaker in bass. The right speaker might even have a broken bass driver (woofer).


The maximum boost ARC will apply is +6dB. That's to protect the speakers themselves and the amps.


The "end point" of the crossover is supposed to be 12dB below the basic volume level of the solution. Add +6dB boost into the mix and that says ARC is looking for the point where the speaker drops no more than -18dB below the basic volume level of the solution.


In your case the basic volume level is 70dB, so let's see where the raw output of these two speakers hits 52dB (-18dB lower). For the Left Surround that's at 50Hz. For the Right Surround that's at 55Hz. Doubling the highest of those says the crossover should be no lower than 110Hz. But running the boost at the maximum is not good planning. So a 130Hz crossover makes sense. Let's see what's happening at half of that for these two speaker, i.e., at 65Hz.


Left Surround at 65Hz is 60dB. Right Surround at 65Hz is 56dB. The Target, one octave below the crossover like this is 58dB (-12dB lower than the basic volume level). Again, a 130Hz crossover looks like a reasonable choice, not requiring a lot of boost.


But the problem is that your Subwoofer doesn't go up that high. So you have a "hole" between the Surrounds and the Sub where the bass the Surrounds want to send to the Sub can't be reproduced by the Sub. You don't have this problem with respect to your other speakers and the Sub.


You could try to improve the top end of your Sub -- making sure its internal crossover is disabled and experimenting with repositioning for example. Or you could instruct ARC to use a lower crossover for the Surrounds anyway -- thus requiring more boost in their bass. The speakers may or may not react well to boosted volumes in bass they can't really reproduce all that well. They might bottom out for example. But a modest reduction of crossover would seem worth a try. However, the Measured output from Left Surround and Right Surround certainly doesn't support a crossover for them as low as 80Hz. The lower limit for their crossover is going to be something more like 105Hz unless you can find a way to improve their actual bass output (as reflected in the Red Measured curve).

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22126866
> 
> 
> Well you can see from the red Measured curve -- which is the raw, uncorrected output of those two Surrounds -- that they have a problem in bass.
> 
> At 80Hz the Left Surround is down about 4-5dB, which is consistent with the sort of marketing tricks you'll sometime see. I.e., the lower frequency spec of the speaker is not where the crossover should BEGIN but where the usable response of the speaker is nearly at an end.
> 
> But the Right Surround speaker is much worse -- down about 8dB at 80Hz. Something about that right speaker is making it underperform the left speaker in bass. The right speaker might even have a broken bass driver (woofer).
> 
> 
> 
> The maximum boost ARC will apply is +6dB. That's to protect the speakers themselves and the amps.
> 
> The "end point" of the crossover is supposed to be 12dB below the basic volume level of the solution. Add +6dB boost into the mix and that says ARC is looking for the point where the speaker drops no more than -18dB below the basic volume level of the solution.
> 
> In your case the basic volume level is 70dB, so let's see where the raw output of these two speakers hits 52dB (-18dB lower). For the Left Surround that's at 50Hz. For the Right Surround that's at 55Hz. Doubling the highest of those says the crossover should be no lower than 110Hz. But running the boost at the maximum is not good planning. So a 130Hz crossover makes sense. Let's see what's happening at half of that for these two speaker, i.e., at 65Hz.
> 
> Left Surround at 65Hz is 60dB. Right Surround at 65Hz is 56dB. The Target, one octave below the crossover like this is 58dB (-12dB lower than the basic volume level). Again, a 130Hz crossover looks like a reasonable choice, not requiring a lot of boost.
> 
> 
> 
> But the problem is that your Subwoofer doesn't go up that high. So you have a "hole" between the Surrounds and the Sub where the bass the Surrounds want to send to the Sub can't be reproduced by the Sub. You don't have this problem with respect to your other speakers and the Sub.
> 
> You could try to improve the top end of your Sub -- making sure its internal crossover is disabled and experimenting with repositioning for example. Or you could instruct ARC to use a lower crossover for the Surrounds anyway -- thus requiring more boost in their bass. The speakers may or may not react well to boosted volumes in bass they can't really reproduce all that well. They might bottom out for example. But a modest reduction of crossover would seem worth a try. However, the Measured output from Left Surround and Right Surround certainly doesn't support a crossover for them as low as 80Hz. The lower limit for their crossover is going to be something more like 105Hz unless you can find a way to improve their actual bass output (as reflected in the Red Measured curve).
> 
> --Bob



The surrounds are in-ceiling as I mentioned. The left is close to the left wall +/- 1 foot or so. The right is about 5 feet from the right wall. Both are about 18 feet from the rear wall. The are also closed-back designs and are in an open ceiling ( http://www.revelspeakers.com/downloads/products/prod_84_634480498879029206_Revel_IC15_Intro_Sheet.pdf ). Thus, there is nothing to really reinforce the bass, which I knew was shy to begin with. On paper they are only 80Hz - 20kHz +/- 3db. They are Timbre matched to the Ultima and Performa series and closed back, however, which is why I chose those for the surrounds. I'll have to likewise double-check the contour switches to make sure I don't have one enabled somewhere somehow accidentally.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22126916
> 
> 
> The surrounds are in-ceiling as I mentioned. The left is close to the left wall +/- 1 foot or so. The right is about 5 feet from the right wall. Both are about 18 feet from the rear wall. The are also closed-back designs and are in an open ceiling ( http://www.revelspeakers.com/downloads/products/prod_84_634480498879029206_Revel_IC15_Intro_Sheet.pdf ). Thus, there is nothing to really reinforce the bass, which I knew was shy to begin with. On paper they are only 80Hz - 20kHz +/- 3db. They are Timbre matched to the Ultima and Performa series and closed back, however, which is why I chose those for the surrounds. I'll have to likewise double-check the contour switches to make sure I don't have one enabled somewhere somehow accidentally.



Play some stereo content with bass and select Mono All surround mode. Now go get up on a step ladder and put your ear up close to the bass driver of Left Surround and Right Surround to see if Right Surround is even firing for bass. It may have a broken woofer. If these speakers have separate input jacks for bass, check that the bass inputs on Right Surround are wired.


For the type of in-ceiling speakers you are talking about, this may be the best bass output you can get. The spec matches pretty closely to what Left Surround is doing. But that doesn't mean you can have an 80Hz crossover. It means you can have something more like a 120hz crossover. To do their part, the speakers have to have reasonable response for an additional octave below the crossover. For a 120Hz crossover, the question is how good is the speaker down to 60Hz.


The real problem here is not so much that the Surrounds are weak in bass, but that your Sub, as shown in these charts, isn't going up high enough to support them.


For best bass response, ceiling mounted speakers typically need something pretty solid above them -- like a sandbag instead of just open air. Check the installation instructions for them.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Bob,


Am in the process of setting up a Zone 2 system with my D2v. Can you advise if ARC works with Zone 2 at the same time as the Main? If not, will it work with Zone 2 alone?

I can find nothing in the manual that touches on this.


Thanks.

Ben


----------



## Thxtheater

Ben,


ARC works only on the MAIN zone. Zones 2 and 3 have no room correction.


Regards,

Theo


----------



## stanger89

So, I picked up a new toy the other day, a Darbee Darblet . It's a kind of neat little box, but I've had a few issues getting it seamlessly integrated into my system with my 50V. At first I had a number of problems, but I ended up tracing that down to my HDMI cable. I used a shorted one and things are better, but it convinced me to order a nice BJC Series-1 cable for the run to my projector.


But now, I still have potentially a couple issues. The main one is that for some reason the OSD doesn't display when the Darblet is in the path. So the question to the group here is, any idea why the Darblet would "disable" the OSD, even though it's just a passthrough/processor in the path between my 50V and my projector?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22130212
> 
> 
> So, I picked up a new toy the other day, a Darbee Darblet . It's a kind of neat little box, but I've had a few issues getting it seamlessly integrated into my system with my 50V. At first I had a number of problems, but I ended up tracing that down to my HDMI cable. I used a shorted one and things are better, but it convinced me to order a nice BJC Series-1 cable for the run to my projector.
> 
> But now, I still have potentially a couple issues. The main one is that for some reason the OSD doesn't display when the Darblet is in the path. So the question to the group here is, any idea why the Darblet would "disable" the OSD, even though it's just a passthrough/processor in the path between my 50V and my projector?



Make sure you are plugged into the Main (upper) HDMI output. The 2nd HDMI output does not carry the on-screen displays.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys

Thanks, Theo, for your confirmation.


It makes sense because Zones 2/3 would be different environments from that of the Main. I was a bit confused by the manual's Zone Copy instructions, thinking that if Zone 2 were to be playing from the same source as Main at the same time, Zone 2 would be playing the ARCed signal as well.


Ben


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22130688
> 
> 
> Make sure you are plugged into the Main (upper) HDMI output. The 2nd HDMI output does not carry the on-screen displays.
> 
> --Bob



I am, it's really weird, no OSD with the Darblet in the path, pull that out and plug the projector directly into the same port (1), and now there's an OSD


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22131294
> 
> 
> 
> I am, it's really weird, no OSD with the Darblet in the path, pull that out and plug the projector directly into the same port (1), and now there's an OSD


so out of pure curisoity, how does the Darblet look with Bluray and HD cable?


----------



## stanger89

Still trying to decide really, it depends on how you set it up. But if you set it just high enough so that it's just below creating artifacts it does make "textures" more pronounced which is pretty nice. You could say it give the image more "pop" (as much as I don't really like that word).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22131294
> 
> 
> I am, it's really weird, no OSD with the Darblet in the path, pull that out and plug the projector directly into the same port (1), and now there's an OSD



Same Source selected in the D2v, with same Video Output Configuration selected? You'll also lose OSD if you switch to Through with the new hardware.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22132532
> 
> 
> Same Source selected in the D2v, with same Video Output Configuration selected?



Yeah, if I just unplug the Darbee and plug the projector cable in directly, no other changes, the OSD works just fine










> Quote:
> You'll also lose OSD if you switch to Through with the new hardware.
> 
> --Bob



Don't have that yet on my 50V.


----------



## wasteofmoney

Need some advice on connecting two identical subwoofers to the D2. I have the option of connecting each subwoofer into the SUB1 and SUB 2 XLR outputs of the Anthem D2, or coming out of the SUB 1 XLR output on the D2 into the first subwoofer, and then out of its XLR slave output to the XLR input of the second subwoofer. I assume it doesn't really matter either way


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22134403
> 
> 
> Need some advice on connecting two identical subwoofers to the D2. I have the option of connecting each subwoofer into the SUB1 and SUB 2 XLR outputs of the Anthem D2, or coming out of the SUB 1 XLR output on the D2 into the first subwoofer, and then out of its XLR slave output to the XLR input of the second subwoofer. I assume it doesn't really matter either way



This is something you'll need to try yourself as rooms and sub positions make the difference, not the connection to the Anthem. I have a couple of JL Fathoms that I tried both as a Master-Slave and as individual subs. It did make a difference in my ARC solution and ended up running Master-Slave. Later I changed around my room and sub positions and ended up running them as individual subs.


----------



## wasteofmoney

If the subs are individually connected to the D2, does ARC still see the 2nd one (SUB 2 output) as a slave? In other words will it output signal equally to SUB1 and SUB 2 out, or treat them differently?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22135740
> 
> 
> If the subs are individually connected to the D2, does ARC still see the 2nd one (SUB 2 output) as a slave? In other words will it output signal equally to SUB1 and SUB 2 out, or treat them differently?



The two sub outputs -- in fact the 4 sub outputs if you use both RCA and XLR -- always carry the same signal. There are no controls that distinguish between them, and ARC treats them as a set, not individually. So for example the Polarity, Phase, volume trim, distance, and ARC bass management and room correction processing are the same for all of them.


Any difference between them has to be done using controls external to the Anthem, such as the individual Volume and Phase controls built into each sub.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

stranger89,

No idea what's going on with your loss of OSD. It's just pixels. There's no way the Darblet could know which pixels are OSD and which aren't, and there are only a few things you could do that would keep the OSD from being generated in the output video stream. And you say you've eliminated those already. So you'll probably need to contact Anthem tech support and see if they can figure it out.

--Bob


----------



## wasteofmoney

So it would be safe to assume that if the built-in sub controls (volume, phase, etc..) are equally set on both subs coneecting as master/slave from one sub to the other, or directly to the D2 individually wouldn't make a difference in the bass output. I'm also assuming the ARC would send a stronger signal to a one sub configuration, as opposed to a weaker signal to multiple subs to balance things out.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wasteofmoney*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22135841
> 
> 
> So it would be safe to assume that if the built-in sub controls (volume, phase, etc..) are equally set on both subs coneecting as master/slave from one sub to the other, or directly to the D2 individually wouldn't make a difference in the bass output. I'm also assuming the ARC would send a stronger signal to a one sub configuration, as opposed to a weaker signal to multiple subs to balance things out.



On the sub phase/volume issue,,, the ianswer is No, Because you have a room that will distort the lower frequencies and depending on where you place the second sub, their respective volume and phase settings will be different. If the sibs are colocated, thne yes, the volume/phase can be identical. But if placed opposite each eithr on the long or short end of the room, then each sub will have to be adjusted separated for phase and volume. As far as volume is concerned, set each sub to read about 72-73 dB on the RS meter(Slow setting, C-weighted).


Phase is different as you'll need help using ARC's Quick measure(QM) tool.


1. Manually set sub 1 and sub 2 phase knobs to zero.


2. Using QM, adjust the phase knob of sub 2 until you get the most even and extended frequency response from both subs. This ensures that the subs are phase aligned with respect to each other and will sound as *ONE* sub. You do not want one sub to 'fight' theother, cancelling out each others effects.


3. After the subs are ONE or in sync with each other, you now need to align this 'ONE' sub with the mains around the xover region to ensure a smooth transition of from the mains to the subs. See my sig for a detailed way to do it. Also Bob P has another way of doing it. Search maybe two pages using search terms like "Radio or FM Hiss"





The XLR SUB outputs ilwl have identical voltages which will be twice those of the RCA sub outputs, So you don't lose anything using both sub XLR outputs versus slaving one sub off the other. I use the dual outputs in my setup as well,


Hope this helps ...


- David


----------



## RobertR

Which would give the most accurate channel levels on my 50v:


a. Setting the levels using the prepro's built in test tones;


or


b. Using the AIX disc (with the player set to LPCM to avoid the DTS level issue)


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22136303
> 
> 
> Which would give the most accurate channel levels on my 50v:
> 
> a. Setting the levels using the prepro's built in test tones;
> 
> or
> 
> b. Using the AIX disc (with the player set to LPCM to avoid the DTS level issue)



c: let ARC set the levels.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37300_100#post_22136347
> 
> 
> c: let ARC set the levels.



Or said another way - ARC will set them regardless of what you do


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22136347
> 
> 
> c: let ARC set the levels.


The problem I have with that is that ARC sets the level for the _average_ of the six listening positions I measure. I want to set the level for my primary listening chair (which is in use 99+% of the time), ie manually. So I repeat my question.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630



Hi David,


That's an excellent procedure. Could the same thing be accomplished by adjusting the subwoofer phase? I ask because adjusting the phase in 5 degree increments may give finer control than 0.5 ft increments.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22136371
> 
> 
> The problem I have with that is that ARC sets the level for the _average_ of the six listening positions I measure. I want to set the level for my primary listening chair (which is in use 99+% of the time), ie manually. So I repeat my question.



ARC sets the level for the first measuring position.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22136407
> 
> 
> ARC sets the level for the first measuring position.


It's not an average? It sets it only based on the first position?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22136427
> 
> 
> It's not an average? It sets it only based on the first position?



Yes. Correction is an average the levels are not.

John


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22136485
> 
> 
> Yes. Correction is an average the levels are not.
> 
> John


Interesting! Thanks, I never knew that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22136371
> 
> 
> The problem I have with that is that ARC sets the level for the _average_ of the six listening positions I measure. I want to set the level for my primary listening chair (which is in use 99+% of the time), ie manually. So I repeat my question.



Actually ARC sets the volume trim levels using the #1 Mic position. The ROOM CORRECTION stuff is done using all of the data (not just the average of the data) from the different mic positions.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22136371
> 
> 
> The problem I have with that is that ARC sets the level for the _average_ of the six listening positions I measure. I want to set the level for my primary listening chair (which is in use 99+% of the time), ie manually. So I repeat my question.



Take your ARC measurments from around your chair, trying to stay only 2' apart each measurement.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22136398
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19542630
> 
> 
> 
> Hi David,
> 
> That's an excellent procedure. Could the same thing be accomplished by adjusting the subwoofer phase? I ask because adjusting the phase in 5 degree increments may give finer control than 0.5 ft increments.
Click to expand...


Robert:


If you have one sub, then yes if you set the subwoofer distance to zero BUT why do this? Its easier to set the phase to zero on the subwoofer and instead adjust the subwoofer distance as described in the procedure in my sig. Also know that a 0.5ft increment means a time change of 0.5ms which the human brain cannot resolve. The anthem increments are plenty fine for the purpose they were intended.


If you have 2 subs, then no as the phase knob will be used to phase align the subwoofers to themselves and continue on as previously described.



Nice to see you posting here again ... and glad to see the 50v is doing fine.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22137253
> 
> 
> Robert:
> 
> If you have one sub, then yes if you set the subwoofer distance to zero BUT why do this? Its easier to set the phase to zero on the subwoofer and instead adjust the subwoofer distance as described in the procedure in my sig.
> 
> If you have 2 subs, then no as the phase knob will be used to phase align the subwoofers to themselves and continue on as previously described.
> 
> Nice to see you posting here again ... and glad to see the 50v is doing fine.


Thanks David. Oh, I love the thing more than ever.


----------



## wasteofmoney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22136099
> 
> 
> The XLR SUB outputs ilwl have identical voltages which will be twice those of the RCA sub outputs, So you don't lose anything using both sub XLR outputs versus slaving one sub off the other. I use the dual outputs in my setup as well,
> 
> .- David




Thanks for the explanation. Because of the isolated voltages coming out of the D2 sub outputs I can see why it would make more sense to go dual output. I will go this route and will also research some of the tweaking instructions you mentioned


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22136303
> 
> 
> Which would give the most accurate channel levels on my 50v:
> 
> a. Setting the levels using the prepro's built in test tones;
> 
> or
> 
> b. Using the AIX disc (with the player set to LPCM to avoid the DTS level issue)



I defer to the senior members, but I have heard that using the internal test tones is the most accurate. The AIX disk is nice but you always want to level with the Anthem pink noise (or use ARC). That's been my understanding. I'm not sure if there is a particular nuance to using the disk to level/adjust the player itself as a separate source. I have the Oppo and the AIX disk but always calibrate to the Anthem tones and it's truly sonic bliss.


The other issues you run into if not using ARC pertain to calibrated microphone and the kind of meter you are using, etc. etc. etc.


I'm curious for the authoritative answer myself.


Regards,

Theo


----------



## Thxtheater

Apple TV Gen 2 and Pink Screen with Anthem AVM50v


I was reading through many of the previous posts and didn't see this particular issue so I wanted to post and document it if possible for others.


I have an Anthem 50v with an AppleTV generation 2 and I get a pink screen on my Sony LCD TV with the following steps:

[Turn on everything normally
When I'm switched to the AppleTV via HDMI on the Anthem and then go to MENU the menu options come up normally.
When I exit the menu and go back to the AppleTV, my screen goes pink
Going back to the menu did nothing. Switching inputs did nothing. I had to shut down the Anthem to get rid of the pink issue. Changing HDMI cables was no use.
The ultimate solution was changing the AppleTV to go from AUTO in the HDMI out option to force either RGB or Cr.... That permanently fixed the pink screen issue.
So, this was a setting issue and nothing more.


Hope that helps someone with this issue and searching around the Internet for a solution.


Regards,

Theo


----------



## Thxtheater

Question to Bob regarding this forum and more general questions to all:


My posts from a few days ago really got me revisiting several items and settings. I re-ran ARC and got a totally normal response from my in-ceiling speakers. I used different mic positions. That leads me to the following questions:
The FAQ is great but the ARC section needs some indexing... need some help with that? It would be nice to see clusters of topics with ARC. I'd be happy to volunteer and perhaps others would.
Speaking of ARC and mic positions. I've heard varying things. Is there a "best practice" on locations? Should all locations for measurement be in front of the primary listing position, all around the primary listening position, at different HEIGHTS around the listening position, as many as possible? I've been reading some things and it's added more confusion than clarity at this point.


Regarding the video settings on the D2/50v: Are there more granular video controls to color calibrate each source from the Anthem? The color controls that I've seen in the software are pretty rudimentary. I know that some other pre-pros offer ISF calibration and even day/evening options. I'd like to have different calibrated settings for the BlyRay, cableTV, AppleTV, DVD player, etc that are specific to each source. I've gone through the manual extensively. Am I missing something or is it just that one color menu that overlays on the screen? I have a software component on the PC but the documentation on that is sparse. Any additional insight on that is much appreciated.


Regards,

Theo


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22137476
> 
> 
> I defer to the senior members, but I have heard that using the internal test tones is the most accurate. The AIX disk is nice but you always want to level with the Anthem pink noise (or use ARC). That's been my understanding. I'm not sure if there is a particular nuance to using the disk to level/adjust the player itself as a separate source. I have the Oppo and the AIX disk but always calibrate to the Anthem tones and it's truly sonic bliss.
> 
> The other issues you run into if not using ARC pertain to calibrated microphone and the kind of meter you are using, etc. etc. etc.
> 
> I'm curious for the authoritative answer myself.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Theo



I originally asked the question because I've seen it argued that when you set the levels from an actual disc, that would most closely match "real world" conditions (ie playing a movie).


I have to say that I readjusted the settings in accordance what what ARC found, along with David's method for tuning the subwoofer phase, and I'm extremely pleased with the results. The surround field seems more seamless, and the bass is more solid and impressive. Great stuff.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22137623
> 
> 
> I originally asked the question because I've seen it argued that when you set the levels from an actual disc, that would most closely match "real world" conditions (ie playing a movie).
> 
> I have to say that I readjusted the settings in accordance what what ARC found, along with David's method for tuning the subwoofer phase, and I'm extremely pleased with the results. The surround field seems more seamless, and the bass is more solid and impressive. Great stuff.



Trust the levels that ARC sets. It is more accurate than what you can accomplish with an SPL meter using the internal test tones because ARC takes into account a wider range of frequencies. In addition, the effective volume trim is actually a COMBINATION of the trim setting as Uploaded by ARC into Setup > Level Calibration, and the cuts and boosts implemented as part of the Room Correction parameters.


If you would like to double check what ARC is doing then I recommend you use the LPCM test tracks from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, in conjunction with your SPL meter. Pick the 5.1 or 7.1 LPCM track from AIX according to your actual speaker configuration. Note that the subwoofer level will typically measure a few dB higher than the main speakers due to the Room Gain that ARC has preserved in the bass solution.


For folks using ARC, the internal test tones still have two uses. First, they can provide a quick check that the speaker wiring is correct, and that Triggers have turned on the amps. Second, they can be used prior to your first ARC run to set up the Noise Level line at the top of Level Calibration, and also to adjust the volume knob on your Sub to get it into the proper ballpark of matching well with your main speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22137526
> 
> 
> Question to Bob regarding this forum and more general questions to all:
> 
> My posts from a few days ago really got me revisiting several items and settings. I re-ran ARC and got a totally normal response from my in-ceiling speakers. I used different mic positions. That leads me to the following questions:
> The FAQ is great but the ARC section needs some indexing... need some help with that? It would be nice to see clusters of topics with ARC. I'd be happy to volunteer and perhaps others would.
> Speaking of ARC and mic positions. I've heard varying things. Is there a "best practice" on locations? Should all locations for measurement be in front of the primary listing position, all around the primary listening position, at different HEIGHTS around the listening position, as many as possible? I've been reading some things and it's added more confusion than clarity at this point.
> 
> Regarding the video settings on the D2/50v: Are there more granular video controls to color calibrate each source from the Anthem? The color controls that I've seen in the software are pretty rudimentary. I know that some other pre-pros offer ISF calibration and even day/evening options. I'd like to have different calibrated settings for the BlyRay, cableTV, AppleTV, DVD player, etc that are specific to each source. I've gone through the manual extensively. Am I missing something or is it just that one color menu that overlays on the screen? I have a software component on the PC but the documentation on that is sparse. Any additional insight on that is much appreciated.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Theo



I believe the new forum software continues the restriction imposed in the prior forum software that only the Thread Starter (or a forum Moderator) can edit the first post of any thread. Since LEVESQUE has moved on to other interests, that makes it pretty much impossible to edit the stuff in the first post.


In addition, apparently the idea with the new forum software is FAQ information such as found in the first post of this thread should instead be done in separate "Articles". I don't know whether people will actually start doing that or not. If you'd like to try reconfiguring the information into a FAQ "Article" by all means give it a shot. Also check out what they've done in the Anthem MRX Receivers thread here.


The rules for ARC mic placement are simple but important. They've been covered here more than once, but it doesn't hurt to repeat them.


1) The mic must point straight up at each location.


2) The mic tip should be set at seated ear height. If you use recliners, then judge seated ear height as they will normally be set. If you have rows of seating at different heights then adjust the mic height accordingly for positions close to each row.


3) The #1 mic position must be in the center of your seating area. This position is used to set the levels so you need it in the center so it can act as a suitable surrogate for all the seating.


4) Subsequent mic positions must alternate either side of #1.


5) No two mic positions, whether or not sequential, should be closer than 24 inches apart. I like to use 30 inches as the typical minimum.


6) The idea is to sample the seating area, not match mic positions to head positions.


7) You should have some forward/backward variation in positions as well as the side to side variation. So if you are sampling a single row of seating, as with a sofa, instead of running all the positions along the back rest of the sofa, have the outer two positions shifted closer to the screen by about the depth of the sofa cushion. So in a 5 position layout, you would have #1 at the center head position, #2 and #3 about 30 inches either side of that and positioned the same with respect to the back of the sofa, and #4 and #5 just outside the arms of the sofa and about at the front of the sofa cushion. For two rows of seating a box configuration is typically used with #1 behind the center position of the first row, #2 and #3 left and right and forward in the first row, and #4 and #5 left and right and back at the head line in the back row.


8) Keep the mic tip away from blocking or reflective surfaces. Adjust to have about 18 inches separation from a side or back wall. If you have a high seat back, either raise the mic tip a few inches to clear the seat back or move the mic about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from the seat back.


The video design of the Anthem processors assumes there is one "best" video setup for your display. Whatever Video Output Configuration you set up, the Anthem will put out "reference" signals on the HDMI output. You then do the calibration in your display to best render those reference input signals. (Pick the Video Output Configuration that works best for your Display.) It is the Anthem's job to convert whatever you feed it for input into that same reference output so that you don't have to change settings in your Display for each Source.


If each Source is sending "reference" signals to the Anthem, then you just leave the Anthem at its default settings.


If there is a problem with what some Source is producing -- or if you want to change things as a matter of taste -- you use the settings in the Video Source Adjust menu to alter the video from that Source. Those settings are remembered on a "per Source" basis. So you can have different settings for your different Source definitions. Just select the desired Source for playback, press an hold the "7" button until Video Source Adjust appears on screen while that Source is playing, and adjust the video settings as you wish. The changes you make are just for that Source.


If the controls in your Display don't let you achieve proper video, regardless of the video output data format you specify in the Anthem, then you can also use the Video Source Adjust menu settings to correct for this failure in your Display. You'd have to do that for EACH Source of course.


I strongly recommend you try using calibrated levels for every Source. I.e., set your Display to properly render the output of the Anthem, set each Source to send reference signal levels to the Anthem, and leave the Anthem's video adjustments at their default values. If your Display or some Source can't be set properly, then of course you can use the adjustments in the Anthem to compensate, but if you are making video changes as a matter of personal test, I recommend that you frequently revisit what "calibrated" video looks like from each Source. If you are like most folks, you will pretty rapidly decide that "calibrated" actually looks better than "adjusted for personal taste".

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater

Bob, point #7 is an especially helpful comment. I have a single row of seating. What I've been doing is measuring positions 4 & 5 in front of the seating area by about 40" (basically in the carpet area where no one sits). The outer let position also gets close to a window by about 3 feet so if I get outside that area, then I'm getting very close to that side boundary.


----------



## Doozer428

Anyone know what a faulty preamp output sounds like? My D2v center channel recently started making a popping noise when engaged and then hiss and distortion continuously. I've swapped amp channels around and I can say for sure that it is not the amplifier side. That leaves preamp out (and, btw, it's both center pre-outs... I normally use both to bi-amp my center, but both are creating the odd noise through my center speaker when used individually or as a pair)... unless somehow a faulty speaker can cause the same issue? I guess I'll test my center speaker through my left or right preamp out to be sure...


Anyone know what would cause a pre-out to fail? Is there a separate 'board' for each channel that could explain why both center pre-outs are faulty? This sucks, my three year warranty period just ended.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22139187
> 
> 
> Anyone know what a faulty preamp output sounds like? My D2v center channel recently started making a popping noise when engaged and then hiss and distortion continuously. I've swapped amp channels around and I can say for sure that it is not the amplifier side. That leaves preamp out (and, btw, it's both center pre-outs... I normally use both to bi-amp my center, but both are creating the odd noise through my center speaker when used individually or as a pair)... unless somehow a faulty speaker can cause the same issue? I guess I'll test my center speaker through my left or right preamp out to be sure...
> 
> Anyone know what would cause a pre-out to fail? Is there a separate 'board' for each channel that could explain why both center pre-outs are faulty? This sucks, my three year warranty period just ended.



Test this using the internal test tone for Center in Setup > Level Calibration. That is independent of any Source device or audio processing mode.


If you can't hear the problem with the internal test tone then the issue is either with a Source or with the audio processing you are doing in the D2v.


Presuming you still hear the problem, next connect the D2v Center OUT to the amp's Left Front IN and see if the problem moves to your Left Front speaker. Do this at the rear of the D2v -- i.e., using the same cable you are currently using for Left Front just in case your Center Out cable has a problem.


If the problem does NOT move then the problem is in something beyond the D2v: The Center Out cable, your Center amp, or your Center speaker.


If the problem DOES move to Left Front, first try a full power off reset. I.e., power down, then turn off the rear panel power switch, then pull the wall power plug for the D2v for about 10 minutes.


If still no joy, then give Anthem tech support a call so they can help you diagnose this further. They may ask you to try a Reset Factory Defaults (in case you have an instance of corrupted settings memory) or a re-install of the firmware.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22137687
> 
> 
> 8) Keep the mic tip away from blocking or reflective surfaces. Adjust to have about 18 inches separation from a side or back wall. If you have a high seat back, either raise the mic tip a few inches to clear the seat back or move the mic about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from the seat back.



Why treat the mic kinder than our ears? I think this is often a problem in 7.1 systems - Surround sound effects blocked by headrests. A lot of people end up turning the rear speakers up a few dB to get their money's worth. so why not let ARC read it that way and do what it has to do?


Thanks


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Did Anthem start shipping the 3D upgrade kit in the US and Canada at least?


Thanks


----------



## AVfile

Has anyone tried playing a Sony SACD or some other source at 176k PCM via HDMI into the AVM-50v?


Just wondering if anyone else heard the hissing noise when ARC is OFF and where Anthem is with this issue...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22139605
> 
> 
> Why treat the mic kinder than our ears? I think this is often a problem in 7.1 systems - Surround sound effects blocked by headrests. A lot of people end up turning the rear speakers up a few dB to get their money's worth. so why not let ARC read it that way and do what it has to do?
> 
> Thanks



The mic locations are chosen so that ARC can hear room effects. Not duplicate blocked ears. ARC has no way of knowing it should treat a location specially because you put the mic up against a seat back.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22140432
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Did Anthem start shipping the 3D upgrade kit in the US and Canada at least?
> 
> Thanks



Not yet.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37290#post_22133043
> 
> 
> Yeah, if I just unplug the Darbee and plug the projector cable in directly, no other changes, the OSD works just fine confused.gif



I discovered a solution to the issue I was having. I had my 50V set to output 12bit YPbPr 4:4:4, I set it to 8-bit and now things work as expected.


I've also discovered something about HDMI over the past couple weeks. That is that while the quality of the cable may not make any difference (assuming it's "good enough") as far as picture quality goes, they do seem to make a relatively large difference as far as stability and reliability, especially in the area of handshaking.


I was running a 50' 22AWG Monoprice HDMI cable that "worked fine", it passed 1080p60 video. But in debugging my Darbee issues I discovered that some issues I was attributing to bugs in my source device, largely cleared up when I replaced it with a 25' cable. So I've got some BJC Series-1 cables on the way to hopefully solve my HDMI issues for good.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22145564
> 
> 
> I discovered a solution to the issue I was having. I had my 50V set to output 12bit YPbPr 4:4:4, I set it to 8-bit and now things work as expected.
> 
> I've also discovered something about HDMI over the past couple weeks. That is that while the quality of the cable may not make any difference (assuming it's "good enough") as far as picture quality goes, they do seem to make a relatively large difference as far as stability and reliability, especially in the area of handshaking.
> 
> I was running a 50' 22AWG Monoprice HDMI cable that "worked fine", it passed 1080p60 video. But in debugging my Darbee issues I discovered that some issues I was attributing to bugs in my source device, largely cleared up when I replaced it with a 25' cable. So I've got some BJC Series-1 cables on the way to hopefully solve my HDMI issues for good.



I've not heard of anyone here reporting an issue getting the on-screen display to work in conjunction with 10 or 12 bit Deep Color output. That really is very odd as the overlay of the OSD graphics is almost certainly done before that output format choice gets implemented. I'd think we'd have lots of folks screaming about this as many people these days have Deep Color capable displays.


HDMI signals include both high and low bandwidth component parts, and cables can be marginal with respect to both types of signal or just one. Whether a marginal cable works also depends on the cleverness of the transmitter and receiver chips at each end (along with things like the mechanical fit of plugs in sockets). If the high bandwidth part is failing and the low bandwidth is working, then you get a good handshake but corrupted video. If the low bandwidth part is failing and the high bandwidth is working, then you get handshake problems, often in the form of copy protection errors. If you go to the Blue Jeans Cable site they have some white papers on the problems of getting both types of signals to pass correctly -- e.g., in the face of cable length, or use of adapters or whatever. But the bottom line is that it really is the case that sometimes it is the supposedly "simpler" low bandwidth signal that is the one that has all the problems.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22145797
> 
> 
> I've not heard of anyone here reporting an issue getting the on-screen display to work in conjunction with 10 or 12 bit Deep Color output. That really is very odd as the overlay of the OSD graphics is almost certainly done before that output format choice gets implemented. I'd think we'd have lots of folks screaming about this as many people these days have Deep Color capable displays.



I suppose I wasn't clear, or that I could have gone into more detail. It's only with the Darbee in the path that the OSD didn't work at high bit depths. At this point I'm chalking it up to my cables, that they're marginal and something with the interaction between the 50V, Darbee, and my Planar 8150 over "marginal" cables cause the 50V to not display it's OSD, where as with 8-bit video, it reduced the bandwidth/interference enough for everything to settle out.


> Quote:
> HDMI signals include both high and low bandwidth component parts, and cables can be marginal with respect to both types of signal or just one. Whether a marginal cable works also depends on the cleverness of the transmitter and receiver chips at each end (along with things like the mechanical fit of plugs in sockets). If the high bandwidth part is failing and the low bandwidth is working, then you get a good handshake but corrupted video. If the low bandwidth part is failing and the high bandwidth is working, then you get handshake problems, often in the form of copy protection errors. If you go to the Blue Jeans Cable site they have some white papers on the problems of getting both types of signals to pass correctly -- e.g., in the face of cable length, or use of adapters or whatever. But the bottom line is that it really is the case that sometimes it is the supposedly "simpler" low bandwidth signal that is the one that has all the problems.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah, I can see that if I really step back and think about things (interference can happen at low frequencies but not high) but it's not "intuitively obvious" as a friend of mine would say.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

stanger89,

I realize the OSD display issue was only with the Darbee. It's just that whether or not the OSD info is composited in with the normal video is independent of whether the HDMI handshake works or not. I.e., if you see the normal video on the Main HDMI output you should also see the OSD. I'm not aware of any type of HDMI handshake failure which would still let you see the normal video correctly, but would somehow block the generation of the OSD overlay.


Oh well, as long as it's working for you now, that's the important thing.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89

Yeah, we'll see what happens when I hook my new HDMI cables up. I'll set the bit depth back to 12 and if it doesn't work then, guess I'll drop Anthem support a line.


----------



## Thxtheater

All,


I'm having some signal drops between my Oppo Bluray player and my display. Once or twice per movie the signal will cut out. I've replaced the cable between my 50v and the Oppo several times with the stock cable that came with the Oppo, a BlueJeans HDMI cable, and a Tributaries series 3. All exhibit the same behavior.


None of my other sources are affected. It is only the Oppo and it happens with either BluRay or DVDs.


I want to replace the HDMI between the TV and the Anthem. I currently have a 25' BlueJeans cable there that has been flawless for several years. I don't see any signs of strain on the cable, but we all know that doesn't mean anything. Any brands at a 25' distance work particularly well for everyone?


If anyone thinks it may be another issue and not the HDMI cable, I'm anxious for some insights.


Thanks,

Theo


----------



## Wookii

Due to the arrival of a new little addition to the family, I have to keep the volume down on my system so as not to wake the poor little chap, so I have invested in a new set of Sennheiser HD600 headphones. I plan to use these almost exclusively for movie and TV watching (perhaps with a little stereo music listening thrown in). So a few questions if someone can help me please?:


I have a headphone amp (Furutech GT40), but will hopefully be comparing the output on this versus the headphone output direct from my D2v.


1. Is the D2v capable of driving the HD600's well (which are rated at 300 ohms?

2. Given that most movies I will be watching will be blu-rays with HD soundtracks, does the D2v down mix the track fully to output to its headphone socket, i.e. is the resolution of the track is maintained, but all 6 or 8 channels are down mixed to stereo (i.e. it doesn't do anything odd, like just utilise the DTS core etc).

3. If using a headphone amp, is it simply the case again of changing the output settings (for, say, DVD4) to analogue stereo, and then using the stereo RCA outputs from the D2v into the headphone amp?

4. Again, as with Q2 above, is the HD soundtrack quality maintained and just down mixed to 2 channels to output via the stereo RCA sockets.

5. Given my two options above, which would be expected to give the superior performance for headphone output.


Thanks in advance,


Gareth


----------



## Bob Pariseau

"Release Candidate" Test firmware V3.00 for the D2v and AVM 50v is now up on Anthem's password protected download page. The only listed change from V2.14d is minor HDMI tweaks.


This is likely to become the real thing if people don't find and report any major issues.


Nevertheless, this is still Test firmware at this point, so don't install it unless you are willing to deal with possibly unpleasant surprises.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite

Just upgraded to v3.00 took 12 minutes, unfortunately it did not fix my only problem, every time I switch between satellite dishes I get the purple haze while forcing a handshake will fix it. My D2v is set at YCbCr 4:4:4 and my projector is set at YCbCr, changing the D2v to Studio RGB or 4:2:2 does not make a dfference. My satellite dishes do not have an option for RGB or YCbCr.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I installed Test firmware V3.00 on my D2v with the Beta 3D pass-through hardware, and had no problems with that. As is my usual procedure, I also re-Uploaded my existing ARC solution.


The new firmware passes all of my initial sanity checks.


Of the short list of bugs I'm tracking I found a change in only one of them -- a fix for how S-video input is handled from my Velodyne DD series subwoofer.


If this really DOES become the released software, that means the engineers will already have a to-do list of pending bug fixes for the next release! 

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Bob, I take it the DTS 7.1 decoding error is not fixed?


----------



## Steve Dodds

Hey all. Just wondering how ambient and traffic noise affects the accuracy of ARC.


IU've just moved and whilst the new audio space is good, there is traffic from a road outside.


I ran ARC for the first time late last night and had to redo a couple of measurements because of cars going past. But it did eventually complete.


The end result had a few more glitches in the low bass than I expected based on other measurements using pink noise and TrueRTA.


So if ARC completes its run in a noisier than ideal environment, should I view the results with suspicion, or accept them?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37350#post_22152823
> 
> 
> Hey all. Just wondering how ambient and traffic noise affects the accuracy of ARC.
> 
> IU've just moved and whilst the new audio space is good, there is traffic from a road outside.
> 
> I ran ARC for the first time late last night and had to redo a couple of measurements because of cars going past. But it did eventually complete.
> 
> The end result had a few more glitches in the low bass than I expected based on other measurements using pink noise and TrueRTA.
> 
> So if ARC completes its run in a noisier than ideal environment, should I view the results with suspicion, or accept them?



I'd be inclined to redo the measurement when it is quiet. Cars going by could distort the results.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37350#post_22152670
> 
> 
> Bob, I take it the DTS 7.1 decoding error is not fixed?



Correct. Use LPCM input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37350#post_22152823
> 
> 
> Hey all. Just wondering how ambient and traffic noise affects the accuracy of ARC.
> 
> IU've just moved and whilst the new audio space is good, there is traffic from a road outside.
> 
> I ran ARC for the first time late last night and had to redo a couple of measurements because of cars going past. But it did eventually complete.
> 
> The end result had a few more glitches in the low bass than I expected based on other measurements using pink noise and TrueRTA.
> 
> So if ARC completes its run in a noisier than ideal environment, should I view the results with suspicion, or accept them?



What sort of glitches are you talking about? Unexpected dips and peaks? Since ARC collects data over multiple mic positions, you would expect it to pick up nulls and resonances related to how the bass couples with the geometry of the room. So I wouldn't reject the result just because ARC found problems to fix which you were not expecting. The key will be how it sounds.


ARC records multiple sweeps and appears to keep going until it has enough sweeps that are similar enough to reject brief noises during a given sweep. ARC also will report if it decides the overall ambient noise level is too high to use the results. In general this means that if ARC doesn't complain then things won't be TOO wrong.


That said, the better environment you can give ARC to listen in the better the results must be. You might need to get up in the wee hours of the morning to try to measure when there's less traffic noise. I've found early or late on a Sunday is often a good time to try.


Another thing you should do is make sure sources of ambient bass are shut off. If you've got a drinks fridge nearby, or an air conditioner, or anything else with a motor, turn them off during the sweeps.


I also think its a good idea to do a buzz/rattle test before running the ARC sweeps. You'll find such tests on calibration discs like the AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray. The test simply sweeps a tone through bass so you can listen for anything in the room that buzzes or rattles at different frequencies. Start at modest volume, then redo the test at progressively louder volumes until you feel you've run it at quite a loud volume. If you hear any buzzes or rattles at a given volume level, then find and fix them, and then move on in volume.

--Bob


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37350#post_22152877
> 
> 
> I'd be inclined to redo the measurement when it is quiet. Cars going by could distort the results.
> 
> John



That's the problem, even at 1AM there were cars going by.


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37350#post_22152934
> 
> 
> What sort of glitches are you talking about? Unexpected dips and peaks? Since ARC collects data over multiple mic positions, you would expect it to pick up nulls and resonances related to how the bass couples with the geometry of the room. So I wouldn't reject the result just because ARC found problems to fix which you were not expecting. The key will be how it sounds.



The level of low bass according to the charts was higher than I was expecting based on my RTA measurements.


I'll try again tonight and wait until even later.


----------



## dmusoke

Can you do the ARC between 3AM- 4AM ? Just kidding, though. Do you close your windows and turn off noisy equipment such fridges, A/C or heaters etc?


----------



## wasteofmoney

I checked some old posts in this thread, and i'm still a little confused about the sampling process in the D2 DAC's


I have over 20,000 songs ripped from CD's to FLAC files on my hard drive. I use a Squeezebox Touch to stream them from my server. If I go digital coax out from the Squeezebox to digital coax input of the D2 will the 44.1/16 format remain intact without getting upsampled/downsampled, and butchered around when I listen to 2 channel music.? The balanced analog outputs on the D2 will be used to feed my amp>mains as well as the other speakers. The reason I ask is because many claim that upsampling CD quality can make it sound worse since it was never recorded in the higher format.


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37350#post_22152902
> 
> 
> Correct. Use LPCM input.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


It's odd that the DTS 7.1 issue has not been resolved. Is this issue hindered by a harware limitation, or is the programing that complicated to impliment?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37350#post_22153487
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> It's odd that the DTS 7.1 issue has not been resolved. Is this issue hindered by a harware limitation, or is the programing that complicated to impliment?



Usually anything that takes this long from Anthem it's software they need to get from the chip manufacturers.


----------



## p.las

Regards the DTS hd 7.1 issue.


I'am running a oppo bdp 83 to my avm 50v. I know that there shudent be any difference if it's pcm or bitstream. But i Can hear on the dialog that the pcm signal is more dull than the bitstream. So for me pcm from my oppo issent a option. If that wasent the case, i coudent Care less about the DTS 7.1 issue.


So why is it so hard the fix this issue - it's being around for a White now?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37350#post_22155395
> 
> 
> Well,
> 
> I just installed 3.0 on my non 3D 50v and sorry to report that there is no sound whatsoever on any HDMI input unless you count a continuous low level, low frequency pop... but no actual music or soundtrack sounds. FM radio, coax inputs are producing sound. HDMI issue> HDCP issue> Hardware revision? What could be the problem here? I like how fast and clean the video switching is with the newest beta but I can't watch silent movies, unless, of course, they're meant to be silent. I Reverted back to 2.11. HDMI sound came back. I have bog-standard audio/video equipment.



In Setup, Save your current settings, then Reset Factory Defaults, then MANUALLY re-enter just the minimum settings necessary to test HDMI audio from, say, your disc player.


If that WORKS, but your current settings don't work, then you may have a case of corrupted settings (which the new firmware is sensitive to). The fix would be to manually re-enter the rest of your settings rather than using your Saved settings. (You still have your Saved settings to fall back on if the above doesn't result in a solution.)


If no luck, give Anthem tech support a call and see if they have other suggestions for diagnosing what's going on here.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

Installed 3.00 on my D2v with 3D HDMI, and all is working fine.

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37350#post_22154012
> 
> 
> So why is it so hard the fix this issue - it's being around for a While now?



Not to mention the decoding was fine before the error was introduced.


----------



## p.las

The DTS 7.1 decoding have worked correct???


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37350#post_22156206
> 
> 
> The DTS 7.1 decoding have worked correct???



Yes, see my NEWS FLASH here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/35580#post_21484893 


As of 2.12x the levels were properly matched in all DTS modes (ignoring the fact that they are just louder than PCM). Only recently (2.14?) the 7.1 levels became a bit front heavy.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37350#post_22156263
> 
> 
> Yes, see my NEWS FLASH here:
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/35580#post_21484893
> 
> As of 2.12x the levels were properly matched in all DTS modes (ignoring the fact that they are just louder than PCM). Only recently (2.14?) the 7.1 levels became a bit front heavy.



my avm50v is about one year old - i have not make any software change... still using the one that whas installed from the factory - i think it's 2.10. i will wait till the software is whitout any bugs. Does that means that i dont have the dts 7.1 issue? i have the front L/R issue ( dts hd 5.1 ) , but there is a workaround, så thats not a problem for me.


----------



## AVfile

That's correct Peter.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37350#post_22156394
> 
> 
> my avm50v is about one year old - i have not make any software change... still using the one that whas installed from the factory - i think it's 2.10. i will wait till the software is whitout any bugs. Does that means that i dont have the dts 7.1 issue? i have the front L/R issue ( dts hd 5.1 ) , but there is a workaround, så thats not a problem for me.



Peter:


I've followed your discontent on this issue(?) for while. Maybe your FW may still have the issue.


----------



## p.las

Ill Will try to test it on the aix test disc - there is a DTS hd 7.1 test track.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

MACCA reported that Bitstream input of DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks was sending audio to the wrong speakers in V2.10 or prior.


But I did not notice that to be the case until my testing with the new test releases after V2.11 (i.e., for the new hardware). The issue in the NEW firmware (V3.00) is that Bitstream input of DTS-HD MA 7.1 -- only that one specific format, not 5.1 or any other format -- sends audio for LS to LF as well, and sends audio for RS to RF as well. This is true whether you have a 5.1 or a 7.1 speaker configuration. The workaround is to use LPCM input when playing a DTS-HD MA 7.1 track.


The OLD problem with DTS-HD MA Bitstream input (both 5.1 and 7.1) was that the levels were wrong for LF/RF compared to the other speakers. This is the problem people have been addressing by raising Fronts +3dB and lowering Center -3dB (so Center is not also raised) using the "temporary" level adjustments on the remote. (Or again, by using LPCM input for such tracks.) Such changes, made while playing a DTS-HD MA track as Bitstream, would apply to all DTS-HD MA Bitstream input. But that problem is now FIXED in the V3.00 firmware, so if you have those temporary level adjustments in place you should stop using them with V3.00.


Note that temporary level adjustments are not Saved in User or Installer Settings, so the normal process of doing a firmware install -- Reset Factory Defaults, do the install, reload Saved User Settings -- would clear all such temporary settings as a simple consequence of doing the install.


If you've made temporary level settings, or think you might have made them, you can clear all of them in one go by going into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video, continue via the Front Panel Display

3) Reload Saved User Settings


--Bob


----------



## KenLand

Hi Everyone! Thanks for all the great info.

My trusty D2 that was upgraded long ago from my trusty D1 has just lost its center and left balanced outs.










Anyone have recent experience with repairs? I'm just wondering if I'm going to get hosed or if the service pricing is reasonable? Is it time to look for a new processor?


Thanks for any insight!

-Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem Tech Support can probably give you an estimate even before you send it in -- assuming worst case that the audio board has to be replaced.


Used D2 units are still getting reasonable pricing on Audiogon, so even if you do decide to replace it you might want to get it fixed. Or work a trade-in deal with an Anthem dealer who ought to have a pretty good idea what getting the unit repaired would cost him.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Anybody with an Xbox connected to a D2v? Lately I have been experiencing sound drop outs intermittently and at regular intervals.

I am actually running the v.3 FW and before that I ran 2.14.

Does it have something to do with the betas? Should I go back to the 2.10 or 2.12?


Thanks


----------



## stanger89

I haven't noticed anything like that with my Xbox connected to my 50V.


----------



## p.las

So - i run the aix test. And my software also have the DTS 7.1 issue.......Sound from the side speakers also go out in the fronts. I have not bean so Big concern for my, till i reasonly expand my setup till 7.1 from 5.1 . There i have forgotten the issue


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22160924
> 
> 
> So, after reading your response, Bob, I Installed 3.0 on my 50v again. I couldn't get any sound from any source the first time I installed it. That was, I now realize, because I didn't do something very specific. The ONLY way I can get sound with 3.0 via HDMI is if my PS3 is on! How weird is that? If I turn off the PS3 while another source is playing, say the Scientific Atlanta 8300HD PVR, then the sound of the PVR sound cuts out. If I turn the PS3 back on, the sound from the PVR comes back. Same thing happens with my Bluray player, a Panny DMPBDT-350 or any other source that I have other than the Intel based HTPC - no sound at all from that one, regardless of what I do ( This was also the case for 2.14a and 2.14b but NOT the case for previous firmwares). My AVM 50v has visited the Underverse, Riddick style, and has come back half machine, half something else.



It sounds to me like you have an electrical fault on that HDMI input from the PS3, and the new firmware is more sensitive to it. It may even be deliberately muting audio as a protective step.


The fault could be in the PS3, or in the cable. Or it could be that you have a ground loop you are not aware of, and it's interaction with the Anthem is different depending on whether the PS3 is powered.


To start with, I recommend you disconnect the PS3 from the AVM 50v and also unplug the PS3 from wall power. Disconnect the cable at the back of the AVM 50v (not at the back of the PS3) in case the problem is a cable issue. While doing this, get a flashlight and check the HDMI plug and socket for that cable carefully for signs of pin damage on either. Definitely do this at the back of the AVM 50v, but you should probably also do it at the PS3 end.


Now, with that cable disconnected from the AVM 50v -- and no OTHER cables running between the PS3 and the AVM 50v -- check whether your other audio sources work or not.


If the answer is yes, then there's something screwy going on electrically in the connection from the PS3.


If, on the other hand, the audio still doesn't work from the other sources, switch a different source -- any of them -- into the HDMI input on the 50v that you had been using for the PS3 and see if audio comes back when that new source is powered on. If the answer is yes, then give Anthem tech support a call with this information. I doubt this is a firmware problem. I think it is a hardware problem that the new firmware is just revealing.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenLand*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22159148
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone! Thanks for all the great info.
> 
> My trusty D2 that was upgraded long ago from my trusty D1 has just lost its center and left balanced outs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have recent experience with repairs? I'm just wondering if I'm going to get hosed or if the service pricing is reasonable? Is it time to look for a new processor?
> 
> Thanks for any insight!
> 
> -Ken



Ken,

Just to make sure the problem is in the D2, have you switched your D2 LF and center balanced cables out to different inputs on your amp?

Does the dead channel follow the D2 output or the amp input?

Does the s/e rca for those channels work from the D2 to your amp?

Have you checked speaker cable connectons at both ends?

Is this problem on all sources,? Analog (like cd or 6ch in), digital coax or toslink (like cable/sat) and hdmi (like BR/DVD) ?

Please forgive me if you've already done this kind of trouble-shooting, but the problem could possibly be in source components or cabling before the D2, or amp and speakers (and associated cabling) after the D2.

Just want to make sure you're fixing the right problem.


Tom


----------



## nrwatson

Help seem to be reaching an impasse I am trying to use the rs232 to control my dv2 with irule and the global cache the irule side is all setup fine and I am using the straight through cable

But no luck is there a way to simply check the RS 232 port of the anthem

Thanks Neale


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37350#post_22152934
> 
> 
> What sort of glitches are you talking about? Unexpected dips and peaks? Since ARC collects data over multiple mic positions, you would expect it to pick up nulls and resonances related to how the bass couples with the geometry of the room. So I wouldn't reject the result just because ARC found problems to fix which you were not expecting. The key will be how it sounds.
> 
> 
> 
> ARC records multiple sweeps and appears to keep going until it has enough sweeps that are similar enough to reject brief noises during a given sweep. ARC also will report if it decides the overall ambient noise level is too high to use the results. In general this means that if ARC doesn't complain then things won't be TOO wrong.
> 
> That said, the better environment you can give ARC to listen in the better the results must be. You might need to get up in the wee hours of the morning to try to measure when there's less traffic noise. I've found early or late on a Sunday is often a good time to try.
> 
> Another thing you should do is make sure sources of ambient bass are shut off. If you've got a drinks fridge nearby, or an air conditioner, or anything else with a motor, turn them off during the sweeps.
> 
> I also think its a good idea to do a buzz/rattle test before running the ARC sweeps. You'll find such tests on calibration discs like the AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray. The test simply sweeps a tone through bass so you can listen for anything in the room that buzzes or rattles at different frequencies. Start at modest volume, then redo the test at progressively louder volumes until you feel you've run it at quite a loud volume. If you hear any buzzes or rattles at a given volume level, then find and fix them, and then move on in volume.
> 
> --Bob



I've redone the measurements (2AM Sunday) and got broadly similar results. The bass boost is only really apparent on the main speakers so I guess if it was from passing traffic it would visible on the surround or sub channels too. I think my new room supports more deep bass than I was expecting.


However, all my measurements also show a dip in the high treble at about 10K. I'm assuming this is a measurement/mic error?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22161966
> 
> 
> Help seem to be reaching an impasse I am trying to use the rs232 to control my dv2 with irule and the global cache the irule side is all setup fine and I am using the straight through cable
> 
> But no luck is there a way to simply check the RS 232 port of the anthem
> 
> Thanks Neale



In the Anthem D2v's setup under 'Trigger/IR/rs-232' you need to set the proper 'baud rate', 'flow control' and 'rs-232 tx status' to match the irule.

The tech help at irule may be able to help you with the proper settings for the D2v would be, or perhaps someone here that uses irule rs-232 knows the settings.

I use the rear ir input of my D2 from my ucr rf base station, so I don't know what the settings are, but I do know they need to be entered.


Tom


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22162300
> 
> 
> I've redone the measurements (2AM Sunday) and got broadly similar results. The bass boost is only really apparent on the main speakers so I guess if it was from passing traffic it would visible on the surround or sub channels too. I think my new room supports more deep bass than I was expecting.
> 
> However, all my measurements also show a dip in the high treble at about 10K. I'm assuming this is a measurement/mic error?



Steve:


The HF rolloff could be due a mic placement (say if placed close to an an absorbtive material like your headrest on your sofa), speaker frequency response or a faulty microphone. Eliminate the first two options as possible causes before you call Anthem for a mic replacement.


In my case, it was a faulity mic that they replaced for free and that solved the problem. I knew the FR of my speakers was much higher than what ARC was saying(per several professional reviews) and no matter how many times i performed ARC using different mic heights, the FR came up short.The mic was the culprit...


David


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37350#post_22152258
> 
> 
> Just upgraded to v3.00 took 12 minutes, unfortunately it did not fix my only problem, every time I switch between satellite dishes I get the purple haze while forcing a handshake will fix it. My D2v is set at YCbCr 4:4:4 and my projector is set at YCbCr, changing the D2v to Studio RGB or 4:2:2 does not make a dfference. My satellite dishes do not have an option for RGB or YCbCr.
> 
> John



I also have been pagued by these purple screens for a while and also disappointed that v3.0 didn't fix the problem. I have a MOXI HD DVR into my D2v and the purple haze occurs under the following conditions


1. Whenever i enter the setup menu and exit, purple/hot pink screen occurs. I have to toggle to another input to clear the problem. Whenever i check the input source(by pressing 7 on the remote),


2. When i toggle to another source whose video setting is set to None (such as an AUX input), i also get the purple screen. I'd have to force a handshake with another input as described above to get it to normal.



The strange thing about all this is that whenever i get the purple haze, the D2v claims i have an RGB input from my Moxi, which is false.


When i toggle to get rid of the haze, the D2v says that i have a YCrCr 4:4:4 video source which is the norm for my DVR.


I told Anthem about it months ago, but still not fixed as thye can't duplicate it. *Please, can anyone here try the test(s) above and see if they observe this purple haze phenomena?*


----------



## nrwatson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22162305
> 
> 
> In the Anthem D2v's setup under 'Trigger/IR/rs-232' you need to set the proper 'baud rate', 'flow control' and 'rs-232 tx status' to match the irule.
> 
> The tech help at irule may be able to help you with the proper settings for the D2v would be, or perhaps someone here that uses irule rs-232 knows the settings.
> 
> I use the rear ir input of my D2 from my ucr rf base station, so I don't know what the settings are, but I do know they need to be entered.
> 
> Tom



which socket do you use to input your ir


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22162620
> 
> 
> which socket do you use to input your ir



I took an ir flasher and cut off the flasher. There are 2 skinny wires at the emitter.

I stripped down the wires.

On the back of the anthem just to the right of the rs-232 connection is a small green block that unplugs from the rear of the unit.

I connected one wirw to the far left screw, and the other to the far right (ground).

i think I may have gotten lucky when I chose which wire to c onnect to the ground, so if it doesn't work try switching the wires.


Tom


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22162560
> 
> 
> Steve:
> 
> The HF rolloff could be due a mic placement (say if placed close to an an absorbtive material like your headrest on your sofa), speaker frequency response or a faulty microphone. Eliminate the first two options as possible causes before you call Anthem for a mic replacement.
> 
> In my case, it was a faulity mic that they replaced for free and that solved the problem. I knew the FR of my speakers was much higher than what ARC was saying(per several professional reviews) and no matter how many times i performed ARC using different mic heights, the FR came up short.The mic was the culprit...
> 
> David



It doesn't show up (to anywhere the same extent) when using a Behringer mic and TrueRTA and sounds fine. I've also noticed my charts appear to be at 60db rather than 70 so I may boost the levels and see what that does. The room is 39 x 39 opening into a similar space so there's always going to be some roll-off.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22163245
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I installed 3.0 for the third time. As always, I followed all the recommended procedures, and re-uploaded the ARC results after the firmware update. The PS3 was unplugged both at the AC end and at the HDMI end and the HDMI cable removed completely from the system. I inspected all HDMI cable terminations and the HDMI Inputs on the 50v as well as HDMI outputs on all sources with a flashlight and a magnifying glass. All pins appear perfect. Nothing is broken or strained in any way. I unplugged all other HDMI sources from the 50V and their respective HDMI cables except one. I tried this configuration with 4 different sources: Bluray, HTPC, HDDVD, PVR so that I would have a cross-section of HDMI revision sources ( 1.0-1.4). When only one source is connected to the 50v via HDMI, only inputs 1 or 5 on the 50V produce sound when connected alone. All other sources, when connected alone to the various other HDMI inputs, produce no sound but do produce picture. However, the HTPC steadfastly refuses to produce sound through the 50v through any HDMI input with 3.0 firmware, not even the speaker sound test in control panel - and I do see the green level meter in control panel going up and down while this happens. When I connect a second HDMI source to HDMI inputs other than 1 or 5 on the 50v, I do get picture and sound as long as I have a functioning HDMI source connected to either HDMI 1 or 5 ( ie., the source on 1 or 5 has established a proper HDMI handshake with the 50v) . If I turn off the source connected to HDMI 1 or 5 while the other source is playing and selected in the 50v, that second source (connected to an HDMI input other than 1 or 5 on the 50v) will lose its sound while the picture remains. I even switched HDMI inputs on the TV to no effect. I tried different HDMI cables (made by different manufacturers and of varying lengths) to no effect. Should I conclude at this point that there is a fundamental incompatibility between the 3.0 firmware and my 50v or that, as you have suggested, there may be some defect in my 50v which the 3.0 has found out? My 50v is not 3D capable. At the back it says 50v.2. If it does become necessary to effect a physical repair, I am leery of shipping my unit. Also, I do not have the original box. Do you suspect, as I do, that the HDMI boards may be the culprits? If so, could it be arranged that these be replaced at the dealer rather than shipping the unit?
> 
> Thanks for your assistance.



At this point you've collected enough information that you should have a talk with Anthem tech support. Half the HDMI sockets are part of the main video board, and that's a big deal if that has to be replaced. See what tech support has to suggest. The type of audio problem you are talking about is very unusual. I don't recall any other reports here like yours.

--Bob


----------



## nrwatson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22163041
> 
> 
> I took an ir flasher and cut off the flasher. There are 2 skinny wires at the emitter.
> 
> I stripped down the wires.
> 
> On the back of the anthem just to the right of the rs-232 connection is a small green block that unplugs from the rear of the unit.
> 
> I connected one wirw to the far left screw, and the other to the far right (ground).
> 
> i think I may have gotten lucky when I chose which wire to c onnect to the ground, so if it doesn't work try switching the wires.
> 
> Tom


Thanks Tom


----------



## Steve Dodds

Does anyone know if the XLR and RCA pre-outs can be used simultaneously? I want to try out some other speakers and this would make it easier.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22164117
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if the XLR and RCA pre-outs can be used simultaneously? I want to try out some other speakers and this would make it easier.



Yes, they can. Be aware that if you try to mix them, XLR is +6dB hotter than RCA simply because of the way XLR works. Your amp may already correct for the difference, or offer a switch setting that selects that.

--Bob


----------



## Martycool007

Just wanted to drop in on this Anthem thread and let you guys know that I have a mint condition Anthem AVM-20 for sale. I will be listing it in the classifieds this afternoon so if any of you are interested, please feel free to pm me. I am letting it go super cheap!


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22162610
> 
> 
> I also have been pagued by these purple screens for a while and also disappointed that v3.0 didn't fix the problem. I have a MOXI HD DVR into my D2v and the purple haze occurs under the following conditions
> 
> 1. Whenever i enter the setup menu and exit, purple/hot pink screen occurs. I have to toggle to another input to clear the problem. Whenever i check the input source(by pressing 7 on the remote),
> 
> 2. When i toggle to another source whose video setting is set to None (such as an AUX input), i also get the purple screen. I'd have to force a handshake with another input as described above to get it to normal.
> 
> The strange thing about all this is that whenever i get the purple haze, the D2v claims i have an RGB input from my Moxi, which is false.
> 
> When i toggle to get rid of the haze, the D2v says that i have a YCrCr 4:4:4 video source which is the norm for my DVR.
> 
> I told Anthem about it months ago, but still not fixed as thye can't duplicate it. *Please, can anyone here try the test(s) above and see if they observe this purple haze phenomena?*



I have discovered that going into my set up and then back out, only with my Direct TV, HR23-700, I also get the purple haze every time.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22163245
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I installed 3.0 for the third time. As always, I followed all the recommended procedures, and re-uploaded the ARC results after the firmware update. The PS3 was unplugged both at the AC end and at the HDMI end and the HDMI cable removed completely from the system. I inspected all HDMI cable terminations and the HDMI Inputs on the 50v as well as HDMI outputs on all sources with a flashlight and a magnifying glass. All pins appear perfect. Nothing is broken or strained in any way. I unplugged all other HDMI sources from the 50V and their respective HDMI cables except one. I tried this configuration with 4 different sources: Bluray, HTPC, HDDVD, PVR so that I would have a cross-section of HDMI revision sources ( 1.0-1.4). When only one source is connected to the 50v via HDMI, only inputs 1 or 5 on the 50V produce sound when connected alone. All other sources, when connected alone to the various other HDMI inputs, produce no sound but do produce picture. However, the HTPC steadfastly refuses to produce sound through the 50v through any HDMI input with 3.0 firmware, not even the speaker sound test in control panel - and I do see the green level meter in control panel going up and down while this happens. When I connect a second HDMI source to HDMI inputs other than 1 or 5 on the 50v, I do get picture and sound as long as I have a functioning HDMI source connected to either HDMI 1 or 5 ( ie., the source on 1 or 5 has established a proper HDMI handshake with the 50v) . If I turn off the source connected to HDMI 1 or 5 while the other source is playing and selected in the 50v, that second source (connected to an HDMI input other than 1 or 5 on the 50v) will lose its sound while the picture remains. I even switched HDMI inputs on the TV to no effect. I tried different HDMI cables (made by different manufacturers and of varying lengths) to no effect. Should I conclude at this point that there is a fundamental incompatibility between the 3.0 firmware and my 50v or that, as you have suggested, there may be some defect in my 50v which the 3.0 has found out? My 50v is not 3D capable. At the back it says 50v.2. If it does become necessary to effect a physical repair, I am leery of shipping my unit. Also, I do not have the original box. Do you suspect, as I do, that the HDMI boards may be the culprits? If so, could it be arranged that these be replaced at the dealer rather than shipping the unit?
> 
> Thanks for your assistance.



If you reloaded v2.11 release at this point I would be curious if it worked any better.


For non-3D folks I don't see any point loading v3.00 beta as Tech Support has just informed me all the latest fixes are for 3D only.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22160978
> 
> 
> So - i run the aix test. And my software also have the DTS 7.1 issue.......Sound from the side speakers also go out in the fronts.



You are still running 2.10 release?


I don't have AIX (only Toy Story 3 for 7.1 test) but I don't recall hearing this issue in v2.10 - v2.13 beta.


I'm told the MRX products which are much less mature don't have this bug, so why do we have to get this bug?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22162610
> 
> 
> The strange thing about all this is that whenever i get the purple haze, the D2v claims i have an RGB input from my Moxi, which is false.
> 
> When i toggle to get rid of the haze, the D2v says that i have a YCrCr 4:4:4 video source which is the norm for my DVR.



Did you try Studio RGB in the Anthem VIDEO OUPUT setting like Nick suggested? I'd be curious if that produces the inverse problem (purple haze when YCrCr 4:4:4 video source, OK when RGB input).


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22164874
> 
> 
> I have discovered that going into my set up and then back out, only with my Direct TV, HR23-700, I also get the purple haze every time.



Now, the problem is duplicated by your Satellite box and my Cable box made by different manufacturers. This can't be a coincidence. Do you also get the purple haze when you switch to another input whose Video Setting has been set to "None" like i do?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22165633
> 
> 
> Did you try Studio RGB in the Anthem VIDEO OUPUT setting like Nick suggested? I'd be curious if that produces the inverse problem (purple haze when YCrCr 4:4:4 video source, OK when RGB input).



Oh Yes, i tried all possible combinations of color speaces and bit depths between the DVR and Pioneer Kuto Plasma TV. I right now have my DVR outputting YCbCr (which i can't change) and convert(in the D2v) to RGB all the way using 8/10/12 bits produced the purple haze when i enter and leave the Anthem setup menu.


Like i said, when i get this purple haze, it (Video Source Menu Screen) claims i have an RGB input which my DVR can't output. Only when i toggle with another HDMI source does it read an display correctly.


The strange and puzzling thing is that it never used to be this way! When i had my 50v(before i sold it and got the D2v), this problem NEVER occured at all. Even when i got my D2v in Jan 2011, this was stiill the case. I don't know which production FW was running in Jan 2011 but it also NEVER had this purple haze problem. And BTW, my DVR received its last FW update in Aug 2010 which didn't trip the AVM50v i had then and the D2v i have now.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22166065
> 
> 
> Now, the problem is duplicated by your Satellite box and my Cable box made by different manufacturers. This can't be a coincidence. Do you also get the purple haze when you switch to another input whose Video Setting has been set to "None" like i do?
> 
> Oh Yes, i tried all possible combinations of color speaces and bit depths between the DVR and Pioneer Kuto Plasma TV. I right now have my DVR outputting YCbCr (which i can't change) and convert(in the D2v) to RGB all the way using 8/10/12 bits produced the purple haze when i enter and leave the Anthem setup menu.
> 
> Like i said, when i get this purple haze, it (Video Source Menu Screen) claims i have an RGB input which my DVR can't output. Only when i toggle with another HDMI source does it read an display correctly.
> 
> The strange and puzzling thing is that it never used to be this way! When i had my 50v(before i sold it and got the D2v), this problem NEVER occured at all. Even when i got my D2v in Jan 2011, this was stiill the case. I don't know which production FW was running in Jan 2011 but it also NEVER had this purple haze problem. And BTW, my DVR received its last FW update in Aug 2010 which didn't trip the AVM50v i had then and the D2v i have now.



Have you tried it with component instead of HDMI? Cable boxes can be flakey with HDMI. Just a suggestion instead of being frustrated by the purple haze.

John


----------



## dmusoke

Component output of my cable box is inferior to the HDMI output as i pass it thru the D2v with HDMI output to the TV. Going component direct to the TV is possible but what s hassle of cables i'd have to drag to the TV







!


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22166938
> 
> 
> Component output of my cable box is inferior to the HDMI output as i pass it thru the D2v with HDMI output to the TV. Going component direct to the TV is possible but what s hassle of cables i'd have to drag to the TV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !



Yea, whenever we get the 3D upgrade HDMI will be a must. My set up screen just started having problems as of 2.14d but before that I was at 2.11. It's nice that the set up screen comes in and out so quick now though, and that the switch to and from 24fps is 10 times quicker, just a little more tweak to the fireware and I should be out of problems.......If indeed this is not the last firmware.







David, I don't have any inputs that have video set to none.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22165583
> 
> 
> You are still running 2.10 release?
> 
> I don't have AIX (only Toy Story 3 for 7.1 test) but I don't recall hearing this issue in v2.10 - v2.13 beta.
> 
> I'm told the MRX products which are much less mature don't have this bug, so why do we have to get this bug?



yes - still runing 2.10


on the AIX test disc - when play the DTS HD MR 7.1 test signal , side surround. there also are coming "noise" out of the front L/R.


One more thing - there have been some (my self inkluded) there have reportet higher volume on the movie Thor....about 6db, when it is Bitstream.


Last night i wash watcing Ice age III there are also i DTS HD MR 7.1 track. This track is also 6db higher than the PCM from my Oppo bdp 83.


i also have a Integra 80.2 processor - i then try to run the same thing on that - no problem










i know that the DTS flag is very complex - but why isent there others there have the same problem - Denon - Integra - Yamaha - etc.....?


very frustating to have a high end gear that can't handle things right


----------



## dmusoke

Studley:


Actually, you can temporarily set one input settings (say the one for the BD player) to "None" and perform the test. Afterwards, you can return it to its original setting







.



- David


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37380#post_22165563
> 
> 
> If you reloaded v2.11 release at this point I would be curious if it worked any better.
> 
> For non-3D folks I don't see any point loading v3.00 beta as Tech Support has just informed me all the latest fixes are for 3D only.




I don't know about that... V3 fixed my Pink Screen issue.










Russ


----------



## wingnut4772

I may be looking to trade my less than one month old Integra DHC 80.3 for a D2v with Arc with some cash to equalize the difference. PM me if interested.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RussVC*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22167379
> 
> 
> I don't know about that... V3 fixed my Pink Screen issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Russ



Not surprised Tech Support did not know or did not give me all the information.


Were you at 2.14 prior to that?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22167285
> 
> 
> yes - still runing 2.10
> 
> on the AIX test disc - when play the DTS HD MR 7.1 test signal , side surround. there also are coming "noise" out of the front L/R.
> 
> One more thing - there have been some (my self inkluded) there have reportet higher volume on the movie Thor....about 6db, when it is Bitstream.
> 
> Last night i wash watcing Ice age III there are also i DTS HD MR 7.1 track. This track is also 6db higher than the PCM from my Oppo bdp 83.
> 
> i also have a Integra 80.2 processor - i then try to run the same thing on that - no problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i know that the DTS flag is very complex - but why isent there others there have the same problem - Denon - Integra - Yamaha - etc.....?
> 
> very frustating to have a high end gear that can't handle things right



Yes it is frustrating. I have a Yamaha sound bar for another TV that seems to handle the various formats more gracefully.


I recall you also saying bitstream sounds more dynamic and better bass impact than PCM, and I think I heard it too. So there are a few reasons to continue bitstreaming despite the fact that digital theory says PCM should be just as good.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22167844
> 
> 
> Yes it is frustrating. I have a Yamaha sound bar for another TV that seems to handle the various formats more gracefully.
> 
> I recall you also saying bitstream sounds more dynamic and better bass impact than PCM, and I think I heard it too. So there are a few reasons to continue bitstreaming despite the fact that digital theory says PCM should be just as good.



Yes. It whas where easy to hear on the the ICE age bd disc .


----------



## p.las

hello Bob.

thanks for you help with my graphs.


just want you to see the new messuerment after i have installed a bafflewall

   


what i big difference a bafflewall do


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22169150
> 
> 
> hello Bob.
> 
> thanks for you help with my graphs.
> 
> just want you to see the new messuerment after i have installed a bafflewall
> 
> 
> what i big difference a bafflewall do



I can't remember what your previous graphs looked like, but these look excellent. Now you'll be able to detect differences in DTS MA 7.1 tracks even better

John


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22169196
> 
> 
> I can't remember what your previous graphs looked like, but these look excellent. Now you'll be able to detect differences in DTS MA 7.1 tracks even better
> 
> John



Hæhæ - i wount dissepoint you ;-)


Before there was some nasty null from 150hz to 100hz , on All tree frontspeakers.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22169302
> 
> 
> Hæhæ - i wount dissepoint you ;-)
> 
> Before there was some nasty null from 150hz to 100hz , on All tree frontspeakers.



Well you've done a great job. Enjoy. BTW, have you tried Flat in ARC for your sub? Looks like it could do it.

John


----------



## studlygoorite

If by setting the video to none you mean the scaler in then that does not give me the purple haze going to or coming from an input with that set up. What I did find though playing around this much is that several times I lost audio too and sometimes my set up screen would not even show on screen, I had to read it at the receiver. Think I am going to revert back to 2.11 and start getting in touch with support again.


----------



## Bghead8che

Can someone help me?


I am thinking of purchasing an Anthem D2 used to save some cash. I can't afford the $9K for the newest model. Is the Anthem D2 upgradeable to the latest "V" model? Does anyone know the cost of doing so? Is there anything in particular I should look for (our out for) when buying one of these used (something about a "red board").


Any help would be appreciated.


Thanks!


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22169196
> 
> 
> I can't remember what your previous graphs looked like, but these look excellent. Now you'll be able to detect differences in DTS MA 7.1 tracks even better
> 
> John



I DO recall what his old charts look like and these are a BIG improvement.


p.las, now that you've tamed your bass problem you might want to experiment with raising Max EQ Frequency to 10 or 12KHz (I probably would not try to go any higher due to mic response issues that are likely the cause of the steep drop off at the highest frequencies) to see if you like the result of extending correction an octave higher into treble. In addition to judging the sound by ear, also keep an eye on whether raising Max EQ Frequency results in poorer correction (a less clean Calculated curve) in the low frequencies. If so, back off Max EQ Frequency and see if you can find a compromise setting that maintains good correction in the low frequencies, while still extending correction in the high end somewhat above the default 5KHz.


Your Subwoofer also looks like it might be a good candidate for the Flat option in Targets > Advanced settings, which will minimize the roll-off at the lowest bass frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bghead8che*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22169983
> 
> 
> Can someone help me?
> 
> I am thinking of purchasing an Anthem D2 used to save some cash. I can't afford the $9K for the newest model. Is the Anthem D2 upgradeable to the latest "V" model? Does anyone know the cost of doing so? Is there anything in particular I should look for (our out for) when buying one of these used (something about a "red board").
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Brian



Brian, there was never an "upgrade" to go from the D2 to the D2v. The D2v has an entirely new, expensive video board (among other things), so the upgrade cost would have been excessive. What there was, for a while, was a factory sponsored "trade-in" program -- return your old D2 and get a new D2v. But I don't believe Anthem is doing that any more.


That means if you buy a D2, your upgrade path down the road to a D2v would be to sell the D2 -- perhaps by making some sort of trade-in deal at an Anthem dealer.


Also be aware that some D2 units were sold BEFORE ARC was bundled with the unit. A big part of the value of the Anthem stuff is its Room Correction system for audio (ARC). Check that your used D2 comes with ARC. If not, then you CAN buy an ARC kit for the D2, but that will run you about another $400. That gets you the ARC microphone, mic stand, cable, and software. (There is no hardware change needed in the D2 to use the ARC upgrade kit with it.)

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RussVC*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22167379
> 
> 
> I don't know about that... V3 fixed my Pink Screen issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Russ



Bummer not for me but good for you







!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bghead8che*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22169983
> 
> 
> Can someone help me?
> 
> I am thinking of purchasing an Anthem D2 used to save some cash. I can't afford the $9K for the newest model. Is the Anthem D2 upgradeable to the latest "V" model? Does anyone know the cost of doing so? Is there anything in particular I should look for (our out for) when buying one of these used (something about a "red board").
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Brian



Agon has some really mint ones (less than 6 weeks) for about $6.5k. A few older ones for $6K...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22169150
> 
> 
> hello Bob.
> 
> thanks for you help with my graphs.
> 
> just want you to see the new messuerment after i have installed a bafflewall
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> what i big difference a bafflewall do



Peter ..congrats! You've tamed that ugly null you had in the past setup and now things should sound great!


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22169150
> 
> 
> hello Bob.
> 
> thanks for you help with my graphs.
> 
> just want you to see the new messuerment after i have installed a bafflewall
> 
> 
> what i big difference a bafflewall do



I'm curious as to what ARC calculated for your room gain. looks like you set it to these values. did you chance cutoffs too?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22170629
> 
> 
> I'm curious as to what ARC calculated for your room gain. looks like you set it to these values. did you chance cutoffs too?



ARC set the speakers to 100hz and sub Cut off to 120hz. Roomgain what set to 3.8 dB.


I have thosen these settings above, becurse this is where it Sounds Best to me.


----------



## jayray

3D kits begin shipping today to those who bought from 2010, then to others who want to upgrade.

John


----------



## [email protected]!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22171471
> 
> 
> 3D kits begin shipping today to those who bought from 2010, then to others who want to upgrade.
> 
> John



Good news!

http://anthemelectronics.blogspot.ca/2012/06/introducing-anthem-avm-50v-3d-and-d2v.html


----------



## rovingtravler

Just saw that Anthem released the 3D kit and it is free for purchases in 2010 and up. It willbe interesting to see how they handle and prove when a pre/pro was bought by the end user and not the delaer. As I know mine was sitting on a shelf ain the warehouse for a while.


Anyone know how they will handle this and or not having a local dealer. I am moving to the middle of nowhere in 3 days!


----------



## Texas steve


were do you see that it is free.  I do qualify


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22172051
> 
> 
> were do you see that it is free.  I do qualify



It is true.

John


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22172363
> 
> 
> 
> It is true.
> 
> John


FAQs on Anthems page or here?


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22172469
> 
> 
> FAQs on Anthems page or here?


well I dont see it anywhere.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22172520
> 
> 
> well I dont see it anywhere.



From Nick.

John


----------



## Texas steve


not on Anthems site,  just announces the 3D no info on free anyware.   can one of you guys give me a link please.   Perhaps I drank too much JD in my youth!


----------



## stanger89

See the link above.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22172624
> 
> 
> See the link above.


Yep see it but no were does it say its free, just "see your dealer"!!


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22172624
> 
> 
> See the link above.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22172642
> 
> 
> Yep see it but no were does it say its free, just "see your dealer"!!



Interesting!

When I looked at the link a couple hours ago it mentioned the 'free' info.

It seems to have been removed in an updated release.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Updated D2v 3D Manual and Data Sheet available here:*

http://anthemav.com/products/anthem-statement/a-v-processor/d2v-3d 


The Data Sheet says that upgrades will be available for units purchased after July 14, 2010, but does not say anything about pricing. The upgrade is described as a "dealer install".


Note, the software link on this page has still not been updated to reflect the V3.00 firmware.


The Manual reflects firmware version V3.0x.


ETA: The first page of the Data Sheet has a red tag that says upgrade kits will ship starting August 1. Evidently they've beaten that date. I believe recent purchasers were promised upgrade kits as part of their purchase, and I would presume upgrades would go to those folks first. So the August 1 date may reflect their estimate for when owners of older units could expect shipment of upgrades they order starting now.


Also, it looks like the 3D hardware and firmware is now bundled in all new unit shipment.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22172700
> 
> 
> Interesting!
> 
> When I looked at the link a couple hours ago it mentioned the 'free' info.
> 
> It seems to have been removed in an updated release.



I did read that too. Probably some dealer said to Anthem "hey I don't work for free" so the charges may vary.


Where are the new boards being made?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The AVM 50v 3D Manual is also now on the Anthem web site. As with the D2v 3D Manual, it reflects the V3.0x firmware.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22172605
> 
> 
> not on Anthems site,  just announces the 3D no info on free anyware.   can one of you guys give me a link please.   Perhaps I drank too much JD in my youth!



The link makes no mention of the free upgrade but Nick told me it applies to those who purchased from the middle of 2010 onward.

There is a guy on Audiogon selling a D2v, he said was 6 months old, because 3D was important to his family. He doesn't realise he's eligible for the free upgrade. He's taking a big hit on price to get 3D.

John


----------



## veerapaneni

Hi,, Any comments on my first ARC run? Let me know if i need to change anything.


----------



## dmusoke

^^^ I think you might have a mic placement problem as all plots fall of rapidly after 5 KHz. Please make sure its pointed straight up the ceiling and away from hard or absorptive surfaces like the head rest by at least a foot or so. If you still get the same results (and assuming your speakers don't fall off after 5 KHz), then you might have a faulty microphone and might have to talk with Anthem about getting a new one.


Your sub has a huge dip at 40Hz but ARC has managed to compensate for it but you might want to move it around to reduce or eliminate the dip and ARC will have mroe resources to apply somewhere else in its processing. Thought 40Hz sees like a room height mode for 8 ft. ceilings so raising the sub might also help but hopefully this will not needed.


----------



## dmusoke

Which 3D chipset do they use in their upgrade? Still confused whether its a free upgrade or not for those of us who bought units after 2010. I bought mine (D2v) Jan 2011...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22173307
> 
> 
> Which 3D chipset do they use in their upgrade? Still confused whether its a free upgrade or not for those of us who bought units after 2010. I bought mine (D2v) Jan 2011...



With original paperwork you would apply. Anyone who purchased in the second half of 2010 and later. Contact your dealer for details.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22173307
> 
> 
> Which 3D chipset do they use in their upgrade? Still confused whether its a free upgrade or not for those of us who bought units after 2010. I bought mine (D2v) Jan 2011...



3D is "pass through". There's no video processing when viewing 3D. So basically what you've got is the 3D-capable HDMI video in and out (which is new) and the HDMI audio processing, which is functionally the same, although there are bug fixes in the new firmware. Your 3D source negotiates with your 3D display, with the signal passing through the D2v unchanged as regards video. The D2v extracts the audio and processes it as normal.


So you don't have things like 2D to 3D conversion in the D2v, or other video processing which might raise the question, "Which 3D chipset". You even lose some things you've likely gotten used to, like being able to view volume changes on-screen, when "pass through" is engaged. When viewing 3D, the 2nd HDMI output of the D2v is also muted to black.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22173353
> 
> 
> With original paperwork you would apply. Anyone who purchased in the second half of 2010 and later. Contact your dealer for details.
> 
> John



Thanks John ...i've already done so







.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22173401
> 
> 
> 3D is "pass through". There's no video processing when viewing 3D. So basically what you've got is the 3D-capable HDMI video in and out (which is new) and the HDMI audio processing, which is functionally the same, although there are bug fixes in the new firmware. Your 3D source negotiates with your 3D display, with the signal passing through the D2v unchanged as regards video. The D2v extracts the audio and processes it as normal.
> 
> So you don't have things like 2D to 3D conversion in the D2v, or other video processing which might raise the question, "Which 3D chipset". You even lose some things you've likely gotten used to, like being able to view volume changes on-screen, when "pass through" is engaged. When viewing 3D, the 2nd HDMI output of the D2v is also muted to black.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob ... but just to be clear, if i future-proof my D2v with this upgrade (as i have a 2D plasma TV set), will i still be able to view volume changes in screen while viewing 2D content on my current 2D plasma but none if viewing 3D content on a new 3D capable TV set i'd get in the future?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22173566
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob ... but just to be clear, if i future-proof my D2v with this upgrade (as i have a 2D plasma TV set), will i still be able to view volume changes in screen while viewing 2D content on my current 2D plasma but none if viewing 3D content on a new 3D capable TV set i'd get in the future?



You lose the on-screen display when Video Configuration "Through" is in use for a Source. For 3D, you have to use Through. For 2D, "Through" is an option you can select in lieu of one of the 4, normal, processed Video Output Configurations. If you use a normal Video Output Configuration for 2D, then the on-screen display continues to work on the Main HDMI Output as it always has.

--Bob


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37410#post_22167805
> 
> 
> Not surprised Tech Support did not know or did not give me all the information.
> 
> Were you at 2.14 prior to that?




Yes, 2.14. I think it was 2.14b.


Russ


----------



## AVfile

^ Good to know V3 improved something over 2.14 for non-3D users.


Anthem Techs take note!


----------



## studlygoorite

CRAP, bought mine in 2009.


----------



## rovingtravler

Sorry guys. I am moving and do not get to check very often right now. I saw the release on the Anthem Facebook page and then clicked the link. It WAS listed clear as day that the upgrade is free. Maybe Anthem now offers the board for free, but the dealer may charge to install.



I am still out of luck as there is no dealer within hours and hours of where I am moving. If it can be installed by the end user then I am set, otherwise I might be out of luck. I bought mine in spring 2011 though so at least I qualify.


Just checked the links I saw yesterday. Very nice of them to change their annoucement to remove ALL mention of the free part. I have to say this is a FAIL on Anthem's part.


Many of us saw the free announcement and they should have figured out their approach long ago. Now to change it is just down right low class for such a large corp.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22175329
> 
> 
> Sorry guys. I am moving and do not get to check very often right now. I saw the release on the Anthem Facebook page and then clicked the link. It WAS listed clear as day that the upgrade is free. Maybe Anthem now offers the board for free, but the dealer may charge to install.
> 
> I am still out of luck as there is no dealer within hours and hours of where I am moving. If it can be installed by the end user then I am set, otherwise I might be out of luck. I bought mine in spring 2011 though so at least I qualify.



It's easy to install yourself.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22173653
> 
> 
> You lose the on-screen display when Video Configuration "Through" is in use for a Source. For 3D, you have to use Through. For 2D, "Through" is an option you can select in lieu of one of the 4, normal, processed Video Output Configurations. If you use a normal Video Output Configuration for 2D, then the on-screen display continues to work on the Main HDMI Output as it always has.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob ...will have to use the OSD on the pre-pro should i ever get and use 3D in the future.


----------



## gary cornell

Not interested in 3D, just great sound - any changes with the D2v 3D with Dolby True HD or DTS HD MA sound quality or same as before?


----------



## veerapaneni




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22173136
> 
> 
> ^^^ I think you might have a mic placement problem as all plots fall of rapidly after 5 KHz. Please make sure its pointed straight up the ceiling and away from hard or absorptive surfaces like the head rest by at least a foot or so. If you still get the same results (and assuming your speakers don't fall off after 5 KHz), then you might have a faulty microphone and might have to talk with Anthem about getting a new one.
> 
> Your sub has a huge dip at 40Hz but ARC has managed to compensate for it but you might want to move it around to reduce or eliminate the dip and ARC will have mroe resources to apply somewhere else in its processing. Thought 40Hz sees like a room height mode for 8 ft. ceilings so raising the sub might also help but hopefully this will not needed.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *veerapaneni*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22172968
> 
> 
> Hi,, Any comments on my first ARC run? Let me know if i need to change anything.



Not Sure Why . I have used another microphone. But the plots fall after 5KHZ. and i dont think all my 6 speakers failed. Can someone give me a clue please. I am confused.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rovingtravler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22175329
> 
> 
> Just checked the links I saw yesterday. Very nice of them to change their annoucement to remove ALL mention of the free part. I have to say this is a FAIL on Anthem's part.
> 
> Many of us saw the free announcement and they should have figured out their approach long ago. Now to change it is just down right low class for such a large corp.



There's been a plan since 2010 and it hasn't changed. "Free" was removed from the web because it applies across the board whereas the plan applies to US/Canada only and within a promotional period. The extra word was a slip, copied from a US/Canada dealer e-mail memo blast, and corrected on the web page about as quickly as it went up. Sorry for the inconvenience. If at time of purchase your dealer said you're entitled to a free upgrade, you're entitled to a free upgrade. Conditions apply, starting with proof of purchase date. For details or to check for eligibility, contact your dealer. Upgrades will be provided in phases according to purchase date. If your dealer is no longer around, or vice versa, *and you have the original invoice*, contact tech support.


Large corporation? That's flattering but all of Paradigm is a small business by US standards according to this table:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_business#Size_definitions


----------



## Kensmith48

According to the Anthem website there's a circuit board replacement and a software upgrade. This is for units purchased after July 14, 2010.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22177294
> 
> 
> According to the Anthem website there's a circuit board replacement and a software upgrade. This is for units purchased after July 14, 2010.



It's the HDMI daughter board, inputs 1-4, that is replaced and then the latest firmware.

John


----------



## spiderv6

So is the new version of the FW released, is there still only one FW for both 3D and non-3D units?


Is the 'no audio' issue fixed for the non-3D units?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22177912
> 
> 
> Bob or Nick,
> 
> Were there any internal board revision changes for the AVM 50v sometime in 2010 0r 2011? I have a 50v with a revision C HDMI Mezzanine RX_VC daughter board dated August 26, 2008. ( I can see it through the grill.) Firmware version 3.0 is no-go for me. (I tried it 5 times, followed all proper procedures, downloaded it new each time etc.) I called tech support, spoke to Z and he said it's the first and only time he has heard of my problem (Only hdmi 1 or 5 work with sound and picture, others produce picture only unless 1 or 5 has a source playing on it.) Could there be an HDCP issue here? I had no such trouble with previous firmwares. My A/V equipment is quite standard: Panasonic Bluray, PS3, Toshiba HDDVD player etc, so no surprises there. All HDMI cables inspected and tested good in 2 different systems and a many different sources. Will 3.0, upon its general release, become the universal standard firmware for all all 50v and D2V models or will it be limited to 3-D enabled models only? Perhaps I have a very early revision product which is not compatible with 3.0 firmware? I'm attempting to understand what is going on with my unit so I need more input please.
> 
> Thanks



Version 3.0 beta is for both 2D and 3D.

John


----------



## rovingtravler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22176693
> 
> 
> There's been a plan since 2010 and it hasn't changed. "Free" was removed from the web because it applies across the board whereas the plan applies to US/Canada only and within a promotional period. The extra word was a slip, copied from a US/Canada dealer e-mail memo blast, and corrected on the web page about as quickly as it went up. Sorry for the inconvenience. If at time of purchase your dealer said you're entitled to a free upgrade, you're entitled to a free upgrade. Conditions apply, starting with proof of purchase date. For details or to check for eligibility, contact your dealer. Upgrades will be provided in phases according to purchase date. If your dealer is no longer around, or vice versa, *and you have the original invoice*, contact tech support.
> 
> Large corporation? That's flattering but all of Paradigm is a small business by US standards according to this table:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_business#Size_definitions




If need be I will go to the dealer 2+ hours away in TX. I would like to have the upgrade as I have 3D products. Again thank you for the information.


Thank you for the information, but Wiki has nothing. Please use the NAICs system to determine small or not small business. I actually am a contracting Officer for the US Federal Govt and must buy all purchases of $150,000 or less from small business based on the NAICS codes for that product or service. http://www.census.gov/eos/www/naics/ 



Sonic frontiers, Anthem etc.. Not sure how big your company actually is. The code closet I could find is 423620 (2012 codes) and is for consumer electronics wholesalers and the size standard for Small business is less than 100 employees not a dollar value.


----------



## CycloneMike

So, if I have a D2v that was purchased in early 2009 can it be upgraded to 3D? If yes, what will that cost and when will the upgrade be available?


Thanks, Mike


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22179403
> 
> 
> So, if I have a D2v that was purchased in early 2009 can it be upgraded to 3D? If yes, what will that cost and when will the upgrade be available?
> 
> Thanks, Mike



It can be upgraded. Cost is around $400-500 and once the free ones are done then they will start on everyone else.

John


----------



## stanger89

So what do you do if you called your dealer and they had no idea what you were talking about re the 3D upgrade?


----------



## Texas steve


have them call Nick!


----------



## stanger89

Yeah, unfortunately that's tricky given it's an hour drive


----------



## RobertR

After inviting some friends over today to listen to my AVM50v, they suggested that I use Dolby Prologic IIx to get the full benefit of my rear surrounds. So I made the switch, with the following observations/questions:


o I couldn't enable Prologic IIx using LPCM output from my Oppo. I had to set it to bitstream output.


o Once I set it to bitstream and engaged DPLIIx, all Dolby sources sounded great, with full use of the rear speakers. A friend put in his Mission to Mars DVD, and there's a scene where you can clearly hear his voice circle through the room from front to side to rear and back.


o 5.1 DTS MA, however, does NOT use the rear speakers with DPLIIx engaged. Is this normal? I didn't try to use lossy DTS.


o With bitstream engaged, 5.1 DTS MA sounds MUCH louder, at least 5dB. Again, is this normal?


----------



## budeone

I guess I have been out of the game longer than I thought. I am still on 2.1.0 I dont see any reason I cant go right from 2.1.0 to v3.. I guess I have a project for Tuesday.


----------



## wingnut4772

I am considering getting an AVM 50 to replace my Integra 80.3. I'm just not happy with Audyssey and I can't afford a D2v. Is there any discernible difference from the D2 to the 50? Is the ARC feature the same? Can anyone compare the 50 with the 80.3? Would I notice an improvement or would I be going sideways?


Thanks


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22181633
> 
> 
> After inviting some friends over today to listen to my AVM50v, they suggested that I use Dolby Prologic IIx to get the full benefit of my rear surrounds. So I made the switch, with the following observations/questions:
> 
> o I couldn't enable Prologic IIx using LPCM output from my Oppo. I had to set it to bitstream output.
> 
> o Once I set it to bitstream and engaged DPLIIx, all Dolby sources sounded great, with full use of the rear speakers. A friend put in his Mission to Mars DVD, and there's a scene where you can clearly hear his voice circle through the room from front to side to rear and back.
> 
> o 5.1 DTS MA, however, does NOT use the rear speakers with DPLIIx engaged. Is this normal? I didn't try to use lossy DTS.
> 
> o With bitstream engaged, 5.1 DTS MA sounds MUCH louder, at least 5dB. Again, is this normal?



PLIIx Will use the surround back always. The only time it woldn't is when it is 6.1 ore 7.1 . So something isent right in you setup.


Anthem decode DTS HD MR higher than pcm. Don't know why. Hopefully there Will come a fix


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22181848
> 
> 
> I am considering getting an AVM 50 to replace my Integra 80.3. I'm just not happy with Audyssey and I can't afford a D2v. Is there any discernible difference from the D2 to the 50? Is the ARC feature the same? Can anyone compare the 50 with the 80.3? Would I notice an improvement or would I be going sideways?
> 
> Thanks



In the past the 50 was a watered down version of the D2, but the 50v has the same processing power and features as the D2v. The only thing it is missing is the upsampling DACs and closer tolerance (hand matched?) components in the analog path.


My dealer offered me great prices on both. At the time I could find no testimonial from a user or reviewer that justified the $2k difference so I went with the 50v.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22181848
> 
> 
> I am considering getting an AVM 50 to replace my Integra 80.3. I'm just not happy with Audyssey and I can't afford a D2v. Is there any discernible difference from the D2 to the 50? Is the ARC feature the same? Can anyone compare the 50 with the 80.3? Would I notice an improvement or would I be going sideways?
> 
> Thanks




I have both a avm50v and a integra 80.2. 80.2 and 80.3 have the same audio circuts.......no difference inn Sound.


Hope you understand my bad english 


First ARC vi audessey .


Auddessey does a better job with two Subs . ARC can't handle two Subs , regards EQ anyway. You Can phase Them manuel.


In my book, the bigest drawback for Auddessey is it's All or nothing. In ARC you Can set a Cut off for how High in frekvens you want to EQ . Changing room gain, is also i good tool.


I'am not the Best to deskrive the tecnical difference. Only if it is on Danish ;-)


Buttonline in praksis. When you hear integra whit out Auddessey . You hear the integra Sound. When you turn Auddessey on , you hear the Sound off Auddessey . And that isent a good Sound. The timbre change dramatic. Yes - the bas's become tighter. But that is what EQ suppose to do........made bad thing better. The problem is that Auddessey also makes good thing bad - espessaly the treble .


ARC don't set the same fingerprint on the sound. It just make bad thing Sound good, and good tings Sounds better. When ARC is in the chain, you still hear the Sound from anthem


The Sound difference anthem avm 50v vs integra:

Both units have a very neutral Sound. Integra have a more Smooth Sound - marginal. But that have some drawbacks. Anthem kills the integra regards attack and dynamik . Much more teksture inn the bass. Integra have a more flat Sound. The Sound from anthem is very much "Real World " where integra just Sounds "Nice"

Anthem have also a more open Sound.


You get a very good processor for the Price - integra.

But the anthem just better in All aspekts. And in dynamik and attack it simply outperform the integra . To me it Sound that integra take the egde off the Sound, simply to make it Sound "Nice".


If i have to say one drawback against anthem is the DTS hd MR 7.1 issue. It mixes the surround side channels , in to th the front L/R. But that issue Will hopefully bee fixed soon.


All the above is only regards movies. For Music i Will not compare integra to the anthem. It is not fair to the integra. Anthem dosent have thiese kind off limitations.


Anthem avm50v is a very complet processor. My search for no limitations processor is over.

Before anthem - audiolab - lexicon - primare - integra i still have.


Hope you understand my impresions.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22181948
> 
> 
> PLIIx Will use the surround back always. The only time it woldn't is when it is 6.1 ore 7.1 . So something isent right in you setup.
> 
> Anthem decode DTS HD MR higher than pcm. Don't know why. Hopefully there Will come a fix


So you're saying that you get 7.1 channels on all your 5.1 DTS MA material with DPL IIx engaged? What could be wrong with my setup? The Oppo is set to bitstream, secondary audio off.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22182074
> 
> 
> So you're saying that you get 7.1 channels on all your 5.1 DTS MA material with DPL IIx engaged? What could be wrong with my setup? The Oppo is set to bitstream, secondary audio off.



Check the mode setup. Have you set All the speakers in speakers configuration to 7.1?


Yes - All my 5.1 materiale is mixet to 7.1 when PLIIx is in the chain


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22182108
> 
> 
> Check the mode setup. Have you set All the speakers in speakers configuration to 7.1?
> 
> Yes - All my 5.1 materiale is mixet to 7.1 when PLIIx is in the chain


Yes, my rears are set to 7.1. As I said, sound comes out of the rear speakers fine when playing any Dolby track, so it doesn't seem to have anything to do with my speaker setup. They are silent when playing DTS 5.1 MA tracks. Why would rears be nonexistent with DTS MA and not with Dolby?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22182167
> 
> 
> Yes, my rears are set to 7.1. As I said, sound comes out of the rear speakers fine when playing any Dolby track, so it doesn't seem to have anything to do with my speaker setup. They are silent when playing DTS 5.1 MA tracks. Why would rears be nonexistent with DTS MA and not with Dolby?



Does the display say DTS HD MR 5.1 + PLIIx . It shout bee


----------



## wingnut4772

Thanks for the responses. Does the 50 have separate speaker crossover settings for music and movies? Can I EQ 2 subs separately with ARC?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22182258
> 
> 
> Thanks for the responses. Does the 50 have separate speaker crossover settings for music and movies? Can I EQ 2 subs separately with ARC?



Yes - you can have two setup for Music and movies. I fact you Can have two EQ settings for Music and movies . Also two difference messured setup. Onenwhere you meassues All the speakers . And another where you only meassure the two frontspeakers.


ARC Can not EQ two Subs seperatly. But that also goes for audessey ......audessey are automatik setting the phase, and then it EQ the two Subs as one. When it is ARC you have to set the phase manuel .


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37400_100#post_22182258
> 
> 
> Can I EQ 2 subs separately with ARC?



ANSWER to Question is NO.


I have 6 SUBS.


My procedure is to set each sub to output the same level sound with a Digital Sound Meter.


Then I run ARC with all 6 Active and it sounds great.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22182258
> 
> 
> Thanks for the responses. Does the 50 have separate speaker crossover settings for music and movies? Can I EQ 2 subs separately with ARC?



Lots of people have used ARC to correct 2 subs with excellent results. In the MRX thread there is a FAQ on the first page, second post, telling you how to do it.

John


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22182223
> 
> 
> Does the display say DTS HD MR 5.1 + PLIIx . It shout bee


Yes it does.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22182544
> 
> 
> Yes it does.



Okay. I Think you Unit have a problem then.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22182588
> 
> 
> Okay. I Think you Unit have a problem then.


Hmmm. Maybe I should reload software 2.10? Or load 2.14? How do I get to the download page to get these later versions anyway?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22182713
> 
> 
> Hmmm. Maybe I should reload software 2.10? Or load 2.14? How do I get to the download page to get these later versions anyway?



I am running software 2.10


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CycloneMike*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37440#post_22179403
> 
> 
> So, if I have a D2v that was purchased in early 2009 can it be upgraded to 3D? If yes, what will that cost and when will the upgrade be available?
> 
> Thanks, Mike



Yea, same boat as me, I would imagine we bought their flagship model too early and now we have to get to the end of the line, beta testing their top unit for three years will not get you to the front of the line.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22182738
> 
> 
> I am running software 2.10


I reloaded 2.10 and it made no difference.


----------



## wingnut4772

Awwww screw it! I'm getting a D2v


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22182955
> 
> 
> Awwww screw it! I'm getting a D2v



That really was your only choice

John


----------



## wingnut4772

Ha. That's a testament to how much I dislike Audyssey I guess. I used to have a D2 back in the day and regret selling it. I'm glad I'm returning to the Anthem.


----------



## jayray

[ quote name="wingnut4772" url="/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22183103"]Ha. That's a testament to how much I dislike Audyssey I guess. I used to have a D2 back in the day and regret selling it. I'm glad I'm returning to the Anthem.[/quote]


Well then if you didn't have ARC at that time, you're in for a treat.









John


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22183210
> 
> 
> [ quote name="wingnut4772" url="/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22183103"]Ha. That's a testament to how much I dislike Audyssey I guess. I used to have a D2 back in the day and regret selling it. I'm glad I'm returning to the Anthem.


Well then if you didn't have ARC at that time, you're in for a treat.









John[/quote]


Can't wait!


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22182874
> 
> 
> I reloaded 2.10 and it made no difference.



Try to contact tecs support. Is it a avm 50v?


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22183627
> 
> 
> Try to contact tecs support. Is it a avm 50v?


Yes, I sent them an email.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22183751
> 
> 
> Yes, I sent them an email.



good luck


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22182291
> 
> 
> ANSWER to Question is NO.
> 
> I have 6 SUBS.
> 
> My procedure is to set each sub to output the same level sound with a Digital Sound Meter.
> 
> Then I run ARC with all 6 Active and it sounds great.



I actually don't mind EQ ing them together as long as I can keep their distances separate. Is that possible?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500_100#post_22184461
> 
> 
> I actually don't mind EQ ing them together as long as I can keep their distances separate. Is that possible?



Did you READ the Multi-Sub FAQ links *HERE* and Bob's Recommended Procedure *HERE*


Do not worry about things that do not matter. ARC hears and sets accordingly.


AGAIN - I have (6) subs all over the room. Distance means nothing.


----------



## matty1137

If I want to raise my MAX EQ FREQUENCY from 5000 KHz to 15000 KHz do I need to re-measure( re-run ARC), or can I just raise it, 'calculate', and 'upload'?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matty1137*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22184608
> 
> 
> If I want to raise my MAX EQ FREQUENCY from 5000 KHz to 15000 KHz do I need to re-measure( re-run ARC), or can I just raise it, 'calculate', and 'upload'?



Just recalculate and upload making sure the correction curve doesn't change too much at the lower end.

John


----------



## wingnut4772

I am actually getting the new D2V 3D. What difference is there really besides the 3D? I am not really interested in 3D.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500_100#post_22184831
> 
> 
> I am actually getting the new D2V 3D. What difference is there really besides the 3D? I am not really interested in 3D.



RESALE VALUE - RESALE VALUE - RESALE VALUE


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22184876
> 
> 
> RESALE VALUE - RESALE VALUE - RESALE VALUE




Lol!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500_100#post_22185097
> 
> 
> Lol!


*3D* is important to everyone else.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22184831
> 
> 
> I am actually getting the new D2V 3D. What difference is there really besides the 3D? I am not really interested in 3D.



All 3D means is your HDMI inputs 1-4 have a Through Mode and are 1.4 compliant. Other than that nothing.

John


----------



## RobertR

I'm disappointed in Anthem customer service. I've been on hold for a good half hour, and no one's picked up the phone.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22185253
> 
> 
> I'm disappointed in Anthem customer service. I've been on hold for a good half hour, and no one's picked up the phone.



it's a holiday in Canada


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22185405
> 
> 
> it's a holiday in Canada


Thanks, that explains it.


----------



## xtrips

Are you eligible for the early 3D kit soon to be available?

Simple.

If your D2v serial comes after 142626 then you are.

If not then wait for the next batch.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22183796
> 
> 
> good luck


I spoke to Anthem tech support, and he suggested I restore factory defaults. Doing so gave me rear channels on both DTS MA and PCM with DP IIx, so I'm happy. Only problem is, I lost them again when I reloaded my settings. So now I just have to change things one at a time to see what setting made me lose the rear channels.


Edit: Found it. DPL IIx won't extract the rear channels on DTS MA and PCM if there is no center channel (I use a phantom center). The rears only appear on Dolby tracks (either lossless or lossy), and DTS lossy.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22185479
> 
> 
> Are you eligible for the early 3D kit soon to be available?
> 
> Simple.
> 
> If your D2v serial comes after 142626 then you are.
> 
> If not then wait for the next batch.



I purchased my 50v in April 2011 and therefore i am within the sugguested time frame for a cheaper upgrade. Do we need to contact our seller or will they be contacting us? Is this a free if you know about it deal or for all that recently purchased and Anthem will be contacting us?


Regards


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22187342
> 
> 
> I spoke to Anthem tech support, and he suggested I restore factory defaults. Doing so gave me rear channels on both DTS MA and PCM with DP IIx, so I'm happy. Only problem is, I lost them again when I reloaded my settings. So now I just have to change things one at a time to see what setting made me lose the rear channels.



Hope you get it fixed. Mary you shout remeassure


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22187577
> 
> 
> I purchased my 50v in April 2011 and therefore i am within the sugguested time frame for a cheaper upgrade. Do we need to contact our seller or will they be contacting us? Is this a free if you know about it deal or for all that recently purchased and Anthem will be contacting us?
> 
> Regards



Check with your dealer and if they don't know what's going on, call Anthem.

John


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22185214
> 
> 
> All 3D means is your HDMI inputs 1-4 have a Through Mode and are 1.4 compliant. Other than that nothing.
> 
> John



Thanks. That's the answer I was looking for.


----------



## dmusoke

I have an Oppo 95 into my D2v. I would like to 'bypass' the D2v for the analogs (by using analog-direct with no ARC processing) and use the distance settings in the 95 instead by setting them to small? Are there any dis-advantage(or bugs) in using the small speaker setting in the Oppo?


- David


----------



## wingnut4772

ARC comes with the cables, right? I only need to get the USB Serial adapter?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22189696
> 
> 
> ARC comes with the cables, right? I only need to get the USB Serial adapter?




New Arc units are now is shipped with the USB Serial adapter. And yes all the cables are included.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22189378
> 
> 
> I have an Oppo 95 into my D2v. I would like to 'bypass' the D2v for the analogs (by using analog-direct with no ARC processing) and use the distance settings in the 95 instead by setting them to small? Are there any dis-advantage(or bugs) in using the small speaker setting in the Oppo?
> 
> - David



How will you control the volume ?


Why not use the analog output of the Oppo 95 which has an exceptional DAC for analog output and use Analog Direct from the D2v.

This bypasses any processing in the Anthem except the volume control which is not digital.

You only need to set the speakers to small and large for surround processing in the digital domain.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22189923
> 
> 
> New Arc units are now is shipped with the USB Serial adapter. And yes all the cables are included.




Thanks! You just saved me $25!


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22187342
> 
> 
> Found it. DPL IIx won't extract the rear channels on DTS MA and PCM if there is no center channel (I use a phantom center). The rears only appear on Dolby tracks (either lossless or lossy), and DTS lossy.


Be sure to let Anthem know what you found so they can add it to the bug list.


----------



## dweltman

I hope someone will soon give us a review of how well the D2V works in passthrough mode. I think there are a lot of people looking forward to this feature.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500_100#post_22190560
> 
> 
> I hope someone will soon give us a review of how well the D2V works in passthrough mode. I think there are a lot of people looking forward to this feature.



One would think the *BETA testers* could speak up NOW.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22189950
> 
> 
> How will you control the volume ?
> 
> Why not use the analog output of the Oppo 95 which has an exceptional DAC for analog output and use Analog Direct from the D2v.
> 
> This bypasses any processing in the Anthem except the volume control which is not digital.
> 
> You only need to set the speakers to small and large for surround processing in the digital domain.



That is exactly what i was thinking of doing but needed specific details on how to implement it. Thx for the details.


Now, for Analog Direct, is it completely 'ARC-free'? No remnants of ARC, i.e Bass Management configurarions, level trims, xovers etc? I ask because i tried the analog direct route with my stereo analog i/ps and still got sound from my sub. I expected a 2.0 output but instead got a 2.1 output (My normal music speaker config with ARC engaged is 2.1). What gives?


- David


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22190560
> 
> 
> I hope someone will soon give us a review of how well the D2V works in passthrough mode. I think there are a lot of people looking forward to this feature.



It works fine. 3D looks as good as it can depending on source material, player and display. I haven't used it with 2D but will try it soon just for fun. Switching sources is faster and going in and out of the setup menu is faster with no visual anomalies. If you're into 3D and don't want to use drhankz alternate method, go for it.

John


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22190651
> 
> 
> Now, for Analog Direct, is it completely 'ARC-free'? No remnants of ARC, i.e Bass Management configurarions, level trims, xovers etc? I ask because i tried the analog direct route with my stereo analog i/ps and still got sound from my sub. I expected a 2.0 output but instead got a 2.1 output (My normal music speaker config with ARC engaged is 2.1). What gives?


Anlg Direct bypasses the A/D converters, thus disabling any DSPs. Anlg DSP uses the A/D so all DSP processes are available. This applies to both 2-ch and 6-ch analog inputs. That's what the manual says, anyway.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22190651
> 
> 
> That is exactly what i was thinking of doing but needed specific details on how to implement it. Thx for the details.
> 
> Now, for Analog Direct, is it completely 'ARC-free'? No remnants of ARC, i.e Bass Management configurarions, level trims, xovers etc? I ask because i tried the analog direct route with my stereo analog i/ps and still got sound from my sub. I expected a 2.0 output but instead got a 2.1 output (My normal music speaker config with ARC engaged is 2.1). What gives?
> 
> - David





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22190799
> 
> 
> Anlg Direct bypasses the A/D converters, thus disabling any DSPs. Anlg DSP uses the A/D so all DSP processes are available. This applies to both 2-ch and 6-ch analog inputs. That's what the manual says, anyway.



Roger is 100% correct. Just remember Analog Direct is pure analog and 2 channel no subwoofer. Analog DSP is 2.1 and uses DSP processing so it can include a subwoofer.

I have been touting Analog Direct for Stereo using the D2v and digital HD music files with an external DAC as it sounds great.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22190651
> 
> 
> That is exactly what i was thinking of doing but needed specific details on how to implement it. Thx for the details.
> 
> Now, for Analog Direct, is it completely 'ARC-free'? No remnants of ARC, i.e Bass Management configurarions, level trims, xovers etc? I ask because i tried the analog direct route with my stereo analog i/ps and still got sound from my sub. I expected a 2.0 output but instead got a 2.1 output (My normal music speaker config with ARC engaged is 2.1). What gives?
> 
> - David



Check and see how you have the analog output setup in the Oppo.

If you have it set to crossover at 80hz, and have the sub chosen in the mix in Oppo's audio setup, the Anthem will send out- -unprocessed--whatever it is receiving. There will be no bass management in the Anthem, but if you have set the Oppo up to do bass management then it will send out a signal to your sub.


Tom


----------



## dmusoke

Thanks guys ...will let you know how it goes!


EDIT: Tested and works just as you said . Thx guys!


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22190764
> 
> 
> It works fine. 3D looks as good as it can depending on source material, player and display. I haven't used it with 2D but will try it soon just for fun. Switching sources is faster and going in and out of the setup menu is faster with no visual anomalies. If you're into 3D and don't want to use drhankz alternate method, go for it.
> 
> John



I am basically interested in using passthrough for 2D, and I suspect that there are quite a few others here who want to do the same.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22191310
> 
> 
> I am basically interested in using passthrough for 2D, and I suspect thaere are quite a few others here who want to do the same.



Why?

John


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22191357
> 
> 
> Why?
> 
> John



To bypass all the D2V video processing, which in an era when most of the video I watch is either Blu-Ray or HDTV on cable, has outlived its usefulness. The D2V is a wonderful but sometimes frustrating product, and I am hoping there will be less HDMI glitches to talk about here when running in passthrough mode.

Dave


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22191379
> 
> 
> To bypass all the D2V video processing, which in an era when most of the video I watch is either Blu-Ray or HDTV on cable, has outlived its usefulness. The D2V is a wonderful but sometimes frustrating product, and I am hoping there will be less HDMI glitches to talk about here when running in passthrough mode.
> 
> Dave



Generally I haven't had any glitches and as i mentioned before that with the latest firmware, 3.00, everything is working very well and the switching b/t sources is much faster. No sparklies or purple screens when exiting the setup menu.

John


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22191379
> 
> 
> To bypass all the D2V video processing, which in an era when most of the video I watch is either Blu-Ray or HDTV on cable, has outlived its usefulness. The D2V is a wonderful but sometimes frustrating product, and I am hoping there will be less HDMI glitches to talk about here when running in passthrough mode.
> 
> Dave



I have an AVM40, which has no video processing.


I still get a few 'quirks'.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22191529
> 
> 
> I have an AVM40, which has no video processing.
> 
> I still get a few 'quirks'.



The video processing, if bypassed, still has the signal travel through the HDMI cables so the glitches could still be there. Your experience seems to support that.

John


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22191379
> 
> 
> To bypass all the D2V video processing, which in an era when most of the video I watch is either Blu-Ray or HDTV on cable, has outlived its usefulness. The D2V is a wonderful but sometimes frustrating product, and I am hoping there will be less HDMI glitches to talk about here when running in passthrough mode.
> 
> Dave



I don't know but my cable only comes in at 1080i and the video processing up to 1080p that my 50v does is anything but useless. Funny that the things that make me smile frustrate you? The only hdmi trouble I have had is audio hankshake issues (no audio) never a video problem, I would try new cables.


Regards


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22185479
> 
> 
> Are you eligible for the early 3D kit soon to be available?
> 
> Simple.
> 
> If your D2v serial comes after 142626 then you are.
> 
> If not then wait for the next batch.



May I ask where you obtained this information?


Regards


Russ


----------



## spiderv6

Is anybody running V3 on a non-3D unit?


----------



## wingnut4772

A couple of excited anticipatory questions:


Do I let my D2V handle video > my Oppo 95?


What video setting do I use for a Pioneer Kuro? 1080 x24? ...x60?


Thanks


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22187803
> 
> 
> Check with your dealer and if they don't know what's going on, call Anthem.
> 
> John



Are the kits actually shipping at all? I am getting non-commital answers from Anthem like "I'll have to check" and "as soon as they are available" and yes, I was supposed to be one of the first.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22192096
> 
> 
> A couple of excited anticipatory questions:
> 
> Do I let my D2V handle video > my Oppo 95?
> 
> What video setting do I use for a Pioneer Kuro? 1080 x24? ...x60?
> 
> Thanks



See this post:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37230#post_22102910 


If you are getting a brand new "3D" unit then you could just enable the passthru instead of having two configurations, but you will lose any video processing including the OSD.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RussVC*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22191898
> 
> 
> May I ask where you obtained this information?
> 
> Regards
> 
> Russ



Here is what I received from my dealer who is on top of everything immediately


_"We got an e-mail with dealer info on the D2V (and AVM 50V) upgrades.

Anthem is making free 3D upgrade ‘kits’ available to owners who purchased their AVM or D2V between 5/2010 and 12/2010 first,

and will e-mail dealers when all those customers have been taken care of to begin supplying kits to folks who purchased their products in 2011

(Stewart… you got your D2V on 5/11/11).

The kits are scheduled to begin shipping in August, and according to Anthem, the kit includes a board which the dealer is supposed to install, as well as a software update.


As soon as we get an e-mail from Anthem indicating that upgrade kits are available for 2011 D2V purchases

we’ll get in touch and make arrangements to install the upgrade in your D2V.


Anthem included a phone number that dealers can call with questions.

If you have any further questions, just let us know and we’ll be happy to follow up with Anthem directly."



Happy Listening!
_


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22191101
> 
> 
> Thanks guys ...will let you know how it goes!
> 
> EDIT: Tested and works just as you said . Thx guys!


*WHERE IS THE BASS GONE?*

*My D2v current setup is:*


2-CH (Stereo) analog -> Analog Direct(AD) in the D2v.

6-CH MCH analog -> Analog Direct (AD) in the D2v.

*My Oppo Setup:*


All speakers set to "SMALL" with xover set to 60Hz

Stereo Signal = Front Left/Right.

*Test stereo CD* = Enya "Watermark". First soundtrack is also called "Watermark" which is the test track.


When i select 2-CH input in the D2, the bass is severely muted in this track. When i select 6-CH MCH analog, the bass 'comes back' and is as full as expected as the subwoofer is engaged. Both D2v input configs have no ARC processing whatsoever since they are analog-direct to the D2v output.


I know my speakers are not lacking in bass as they have response down to 20Hz and below (see Music config attachment from ARC).


So, why is the bass missing in the 2CH AD mode but not in the 6CH mode? Why and where is it gone in the Front Left/Right mode (which is my preferred stereo mode)?


Also (maybe related?) ... when i change the Stereo Signal mode in the Oppo to from "Front left/Right" to "Down-mixed Stereo", the bass seems to come back, maybe not as much as before (but my ears could be fooling me here i admit).








Music Config.jpg 341k .jpg file


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22190134
> 
> 
> Be sure to let Anthem know what you found so they can add it to the bug list.


Thanks Roger, I went ahead and reported it. I'm going to try version 2.14 to see if that makes a difference.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22192082
> 
> 
> Is anybody running V3 on a non-3D unit?



I am.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RussVC*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22191898
> 
> 
> May I ask where you obtained this information?
> 
> Regards
> 
> Russ



When Anthem were asked if I was illegible I was just handed that serial number and asked to check my D2v if it was newer or older.

So I guess the conclusion is not far fetched.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22193116
> 
> *WHERE IS THE BASS GONE?*
> *My D2v current setup is:*
> 
> 2-CH (Stereo) analog -> Analog Direct(AD) in the D2v.
> 
> 6-CH MCH analog -> Analog Direct (AD) in the D2v.
> *My Oppo Setup:*
> All speakers set to "SMALL" with xover set to 60Hz
> 
> Stereo Signal = Front Left/Right.
> *Test stereo CD* = Enya "Watermark". First soundtrack is also called "Watermark" which is the test track.
> 
> When i select 2-CH input in the D2, the bass is severely muted in this track. When i select 6-CH MCH analog, the bass 'comes back' and is as full as expected as the subwoofer is engaged. Both D2v input configs have no ARC processing whatsoever since they are analog-direct to the D2v output.
> 
> I know my speakers are not lacking in bass as they have response down to 20Hz and below (see Music config attachment from ARC).
> 
> So, why is the bass missing in the 2CH AD mode but not in the 6CH mode? Why and where is it gone in the Front Left/Right mode (which is my preferred stereo mode)?
> 
> Also (maybe related?) ... when i change the Stereo Signal mode in the Oppo to from "Front left/Right" to "Down-mixed Stereo", the bass seems to come back, maybe not as much as before (but my ears could be fooling me here i admit).
> Music Config.jpg 341k .jpg file



David,

In the oppo's speaker menu set the fronts to large with no x-over and see what happens with 2-ch.


Tom


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22193512
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> In the oppo's speaker menu set the fronts to large with no x-over and see what happens with 2-ch.
> 
> Tom


In theory those settings only apply to the M/C outputs but it would be the first thing I would check too, just to be sure.


There's a pretty nasty 40hz null in the room that could be coming in to play also. Could it be you are sitting in the null of RF & LF but not the sub? What happens if you change seating position? Are you sure RF & LF are in phase? Just throwing stuff out there.


Be difficult to explain away the downmix phenomena though.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22193512
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> In the oppo's speaker menu set the fronts to large with no x-over and see what happens with 2-ch.
> 
> Tom





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22193615
> 
> 
> In theory those settings only apply to the M/C outputs but it would be the first thing I would check too, just to be sure.
> 
> There's a pretty nasty 40hz null in the room that could be coming in to play also. Could it be you are sitting in the null of RF & LF but not the sub? What happens if you change seating position? Are you sure RF & LF are in phase? Just throwing stuff out there.
> 
> Be difficult to explain away the downmix phenomena though.



In the Oppo 95 manual on pg 71 it states that if speakers are set to small that *no* bass is sent to the speaker. All bass is sent to sub.

If speakers are set to large then bass is sent to those speakers, adjusted by the x-over chosen.

You can choose to assign speaker pairs as large or small-- in other words you can set fronts to large and surrounds /rears to small.

So, I think, if you set the fronts to large and set its crossover to 40hz and set all other speakers to small that you will get the bass you are looking for out of your fronts in 2-ch with analog direct.You can try and see, but according to the manual it sounds like it might work.


Tom


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22193660
> 
> 
> In the Oppo 95 manual on pg 71 it states that if speakers are set to small that *no* bass is sent to the speaker. All bass is sent to sub.
> 
> If speakers are set to large then bass is sent to those speakers, adjusted by the x-over chosen.
> 
> You can choose to assign speaker pairs as large or small-- in other words you can set fronts to large and surrounds /rears to small.
> 
> So, I think, if you set the fronts to large and set its crossover to 40hz and set all other speakers to small that you will get the bass you are looking for out of your fronts in 2-ch with analog direct.You can try and see, but according to the manual it sounds like it might work.
> 
> Tom


But those only apply to the 6 channel outputs....Top of page 70:


> Quote:
> Speaker Configuration applies to the multi-channel analog audio outputs only.


Maybe I've misinterpreted how he is hooked up. Is he not using the 2 channel Oppo outputs into the Anthem 2CH?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22193116
> 
> *WHERE IS THE BASS GONE?*





> Quote:
> When i select 2-CH input in the D2, the bass is severely muted in this track. When i select 6-CH MCH analog, the bass 'comes back' and is as full as expected as the subwoofer is engaged. Both D2v input configs have no ARC processing whatsoever since they are analog-direct to the D2v output.


It looks like you are throwing the bass away when you select the 2-ch input. The Oppo has redirected the bass to the Sub out, but the 2-ch input is not a 2.1 input, so that signal is not heard, until you select the 6-ch (5.1) input.


If you want to hear 2.1, you have to use the 6-ch input.


Even i the Oppo is in fact sending full range audio from the stereo outputs, you are still not using your subs, and that can also explain the lack of bass. Same solution: use the 6-ch input all the time.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22193512
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> In the oppo's speaker menu set the fronts to large with no x-over and see what happens with 2-ch.
> 
> Tom



Tom ...when set to 'Large' at the lowest crossover (don't know how to turn off the xover) of 40Hz, the bass comes back though not as authoritative as when with the sub is involved which makes me think some bass is thrown away somewhere?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22193615
> 
> 
> In theory those settings only apply to the M/C outputs but it would be the first thing I would check too, just to be sure.
> 
> There's a pretty nasty 40hz null in the room that could be coming in to play also. Could it be you are sitting in the null of RF & LF but not the sub? What happens if you change seating position? Are you sure RF & LF are in phase? Just throwing stuff out there.
> 
> Be difficult to explain away the downmix phenomena though.



Moved around the listening room and the bass was still gone for sure!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22193729
> 
> 
> But those only apply to the 6 channel outputs....Top of page 70:
> 
> Maybe I've misinterpreted how he is hooked up. Is he not using the 2 channel Oppo outputs into the Anthem 2CH?



Yes you are correct. I am using only anthem 2CH.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22193807
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> When i select 2-CH input in the D2, the bass is severely muted in this track. When i select 6-CH MCH analog, the bass 'comes back' and is as full as expected as the subwoofer is engaged. Both D2v input configs have no ARC processing whatsoever since they are analog-direct to the D2v output.
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like you are throwing the bass away when you select the 2-ch input. The Oppo has redirected the bass to the Sub out, but the 2-ch input is not a 2.1 input, so that signal is not heard, until you select the 6-ch (5.1) input.
> 
> If you want to hear 2.1, you have to use the 6-ch input.
Click to expand...


Yes, i figured that was the case but surely there has to be a way to direct all the bass into the Left and Right analog channels only? What did people do listening to stereo music before bass management and subwoofers came along? Is there a way to disable the xover for 2CH sessions only? Right now, the lowest it can be set is 40Hz...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22193116
> 
> *WHERE IS THE BASS GONE?*
> *My D2v current setup is:*
> 
> 2-CH (Stereo) analog -> Analog Direct(AD) in the D2v.
> 
> 6-CH MCH analog -> Analog Direct (AD) in the D2v.
> *My Oppo Setup:*
> 
> All speakers set to "SMALL" with xover set to 60Hz
> 
> Stereo Signal = Front Left/Right.
> *Test stereo CD* = Enya "Watermark". First soundtrack is also called "Watermark" which is the test track.
> 
> When i select 2-CH input in the D2, the bass is severely muted in this track. When i select 6-CH MCH analog, the bass 'comes back' and is as full as expected as the subwoofer is engaged. Both D2v input configs have no ARC processing whatsoever since they are analog-direct to the D2v output.
> 
> I know my speakers are not lacking in bass as they have response down to 20Hz and below (see Music config attachment from ARC).
> 
> So, why is the bass missing in the 2CH AD mode but not in the 6CH mode? Why and where is it gone in the Front Left/Right mode (which is my preferred stereo mode)?
> 
> Also (maybe related?) ... when i change the Stereo Signal mode in the Oppo to from "Front left/Right" to "Down-mixed Stereo", the bass seems to come back, maybe not as much as before (but my ears could be fooling me here i admit).
> Music Config.jpg 341k .jpg file



Your problem is that you have your OPPO 95 set to configure its dedicated Stereo outputs for use IN PLACE OF the normal Left Front / Right Front outputs of the multi-channel set.


That means they are responding to all the settings that would normally apply to Left Front / Right Front in the multi-channel set. In particular, the 60Hz crossover is extracting bass from them and sending it to the multi-channel Subwoofer output.


If you want to wire the dedicated Stereo outputs separately from the Multi-channel outputs, then set them to "Down-mixed Stereo" and the crossover will not be applied against them. You will need to wire Left Front / Right Front from the multi-channel set to the 6-CH input of the Anthem, and separately wire the dedicated L/R Stereo outputs to a stereo input pair in the Anthem.


Now when listening to CDs using the multi-channel set, some bass is being sent to the OPPOs subwoofer output. In ANALOG-DIRECT in the Anthem, that bass is then going to your Subwoofer -- uncorrected by ARC.


Meanwhile when listing to CDs using the stereo outputs (Down-mixed Stereo) all the bass is maintained in L/R and that's being sent to your Left Front/Right Front speakers by the Anthem. I.e., when using ANALOG-DIRECT there is no crossover processing -- no bass steering -- in the Anthem at all. Not by ARC, and not by any manual setting you might make in Speaker Configuration in the Anthem. NO AUDIO is going to your Subwoofer.


So it is perfectly normal for the bass to sound different even when the OPPO is configured correctly (Down-mix stereo) because ARC is not correcting the bass transition between your mains and sub, and your mains may not be able to reproduce bass as well as your sub.


If you want to use ANALOG-DIRECT with the analog inputs, you have to take it on faith that things are just working in your room and in how your speaker and sub naturally match up, or you have to do physical adjustments like installing bass traps or such to better match main speaker bass and subwoofer bass. Life is tough for folks who prefer to live in an all-analog, pre-ARC world.









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22192096
> 
> 
> A couple of excited anticipatory questions:
> 
> Do I let my D2V handle video > my Oppo 95?
> 
> What video setting do I use for a Pioneer Kuro? 1080 x24? ...x60?
> 
> Thanks



I recommend you use 1080p from the OPPO for all video. Among other things, this means you'll be able to use all the value added features in the OPPO like the Zoom modes.


Set 1080p/24 Auto, and the OPPO will send 1080p/24 to the D2v when appropriate. Now, in the D2v you can choose to have that raised to /60 or passed on to your display as /24 -- AVFILE has posted info on that.


For your Kuro display, many posters at AVS say the Kuros work better if fed Studio RGB video data format. You can set that in the Video Output configuration in the D2v. This does not mean you must also send RGB from the OPPO to the D2v. Experiment a bit and see which output configuration in the OPPO seems to work best for the feed into the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Bravo Bob!


That was helpful indeed and now i understand why i am losing my bass. By setting the stereo mode to LF/RF, i was allowing the xover settings for the MCH speaker outputs to apply to the dedicated stereo outs. I began to think maybe that was the case but i had no proof to back up my suspicions.


Now, my 5.1 analog MCH outs from the Oppo 95 go to the D2v MCH inputs and set in Analog-Direct mode to take advantage of the ESS DACs in the 95.


My dedicated stereo outputs(XLR) form the Oppo 95 go to the D2v stereo inputs, also XLR and set in Analog Direct mode as well.


Speaker configuration in the Oppo is set to "Small" andnow stereo mode set to "Down-Mix".


I plan to use analogs for music CD's for now and so far the. Do not know yet how the MCH SACD's and BD music concerts will sound in this mode yet. The rest(movies mostly) will be (and are) HDMI from the Oppo to the D2v.


Yes, i have bass traps and other room treatments around the apartment. They make for an dull / visually boring room (ugly some would say?) but they tamed many many nasty modes in my listening room. This is shown in the previous Music Config chart i posted from ARC shows relatively flat and even frequency response of my room.


I had set the stereo mode to LF/RF on advice of a poster on the 95 forum who said this mode 'sounded' better than the down-mix mode, so i believed him wihout thinking why that would be the case








.


Is the Down-mix mode precision accurate in down-converting the MCH signals to Stereo? I presume all this is done digitally, pre DACs, right?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22194059
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> Is the Down-mix mode precision accurate in down-converting the MCH signals to Stereo? I presume all this is done digitally, pre DACs, right?



Down-mixing in the OPPO is done digitally. It is accurate enough, but understand that whenever you down-mix for Analog output the signals have to be attenuated so that the combined signal doesn't clip the Analog input of whatever's on the other end of that cable. That of course raises the noise floor.


In addition, when down-mixing to the dedicated stereo outputs (i.e., set to down-mix stereo) any LFE content is discarded. This is to avoid the even greater attenuation that would be needed to match the main channels to the LFE -- which is recorded on disc at -10dB bias to allow headroom for LOUD bass.


The bottom line is that when listening to multi-channel content, if you REALLY want it down-mixed to stereo you should use the multi-channel outputs and let the D2v do the down-mixing -- which means running ANALOG-DSP.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Yup ... i have no desire to listen to MCH analog music content in Stereo mode so the LFE discard is a non-issue here. I don't think they put LFE content in MCH SACDs anyways, do they? That would be odd, me thinks! Movies will use HDMI only...


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22194059
> 
> 
> Do not know yet how the MCH SACD's and BD music concerts will sound in this mode yet.


IIRC the Oppo can drive its DACs with DSD audio, but not when bass management is turned on. Then it has to convert internally to PCM. You might want to compare the sound with bass management turned off in the Oppo, and as Bob just mentioned for downmixing, use Anlg DSP to let the D2v do the bass management. See if there's any difference.


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37530#post_22192082
> 
> 
> Is anybody running V3 on a non-3D unit?



yes, but i am getting audio dropouts on my Rogers box (HDMI) every couple of minutes, going back to 2.14


mark


----------



## tizzy

Installed firmware v. 3.00 on my AVM 50v, no 3D board. Basically, it works flawlessly. I'm still experiencing some handshake issues with Oppo 93, maybe somewhat more than with the previous beta firmware (2.14d).


----------



## studlygoorite

On 3.00 I get the purple haze switching to and from two specific inputs and coming out of the D2v's set up menu on these inputs. Also just found that I can no longer get audio on my Canadian Satellite dish with HDMI, just ordered a 6' Optical to fix this. Not sure if this problem is my D2v or the dish receiver......yet.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22195950
> 
> 
> On 3.00 I get the purple haze switching to and from two specific inputs and coming out of the D2v's set up menu on these inputs. Also just found that I can no longer get audio on my Canaidian Satellite dish with HDMI, just ordered a 6' Optical to fix this. Not sure if this problem is my D2v or the dish receiver......yet.



Also have had and still have the purple haze when i enter and exit the Anthem setup screen from my Moxi cable box input ... Sigh!

Problem existed in previous beta as well.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22194610
> 
> 
> IIRC the Oppo can drive its DACs with DSD audio, but not when bass management is turned on. Then it has to convert internally to PCM. You might want to compare the sound with bass management turned off in the Oppo, and as Bob just mentioned for downmixing, use Anlg DSP to let the D2v do the bass management. See if there's any difference.


+1


----------



## chileboy

I'm using a AVM50 ARC that I got fairly recently, and couldn't be happier until I can afford one of the newer models. But I am having a few everyday issues that I was hoping for some help with.


First, I noticed that when I switch sources, I get a pretty loud hiss until the Anthem syncs up (I suppose), which can take a second or two. It didn't really bother me that much, but I have now started streaming wav files to my PS3 (using Twonky) and between every track I get the same issue, I'm guessing because there's no signal for a second. I'm assuming these issues are related. It's worse with the music because, while I generally have the volume pretty low when switching sources, I often don't when playing an album, and it can be startling.


The other issue is that my display has only component inputs, and based on discussions I had here, I got an HDFury, which I also am very happy with. But, when first powering up, it seems the Anthem has trouble syncing to it. I will get either static on the screen, intermittently interspersed with the real signal, or else it doesn't recognize the HDCP and won't display video (or play audio) at all. The only consistent way to resolve the issue is to disconnect the power from the HDFury for a second and then reconnect it. I should note the HDFury always has power, even when the rest of the system is powered-off.


All of my inputs to the Anthem are HDMI.


Many thanks for any advice.


- Mark


----------



## spiderv6

V3.0 on my non-3D D2V (141xxx serial number....early model) ;


It works for me - almost. Problem is my Dune Prime 3.0 which works sometimes and doesn't others (audio). It seems to take forever to lock on to the audio stream, and sometimes doesn't manage it without powering everything off and trying again. Sometimes it works immediately. Ugh.....never had this problem with other versions of the FW. Every other component working fine.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37470#post_22182058
> 
> 
> I have both a avm50v and a integra 80.2. 80.2 and 80.3 have the same audio circuts.......no difference inn Sound.



Thank you for your post. I have an Anthem D2, and I'm considering upgrading to a newer processor. If only the D2 supported 7.1 LPCM, I would be able to wait longer (it only supports 5.1 LPCM input). Also, since it is no longer a current model, I would have to live with any HDMI issues it has.


Unfortunately, to my dismay, Anthem no longer supports upgrading the D2. Since I can't get a break on an upgrade, it would only be right to look at what other processors are good to consider in addition to Anthem. Unlike when I bought my D2, I no longer listen critically to music on my home theater (mainly due to lack of time). I use my Home Theater just for movies. So, I think this rules out the D2v and makes the 50v a candidate. Also, in the past the D2 was touted as being more potentially upgradable than the 50, but I think that's really no longer the case with the D2v and 50v.


Anyway, the Integra 80.3 is one of the other processors that I am considering. It has the latest bells and whistles and a really nice feature list and Ethernet connectivity/upgradability. . Of course, sound is important but it's hard to compare the two given dealerships for the two aren't that common (hence it's good to hear from folks with experience with the two).


One thing that I'd really like to know, since you have an Integra and an Anthem, is: how does Anthem and Integra compare when it comes to reliability, lack of firmware bugs, and HDMI handshaking issues (which was something of a struggle with the D2)? I really would like a new processor that I won't be spending a lot of time with debugging issues.



Thanks..


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500_100#post_22201543
> 
> 
> Thank you for your post. I have an Anthem D2, and I'm considering upgrading to a newer processor..



I own a D2 and have *no intention* of wasting Money on SOMETHING NEW.


I have a 7.1 Speaker setup and a great 3D Projector.


If you have excess money to *BURN* - send some my WAY


----------



## wingnut4772

Speaking of something new...has anyone here heard the Classe SSP 800? How does that stack up against the D2v?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22201543
> 
> 
> Thank you for your post. I have an Anthem D2, and I'm considering upgrading to a newer processor. If only the D2 supported 7.1 LPCM, I would be able to wait longer (it only supports 5.1 LPCM input). Also, since it is no longer a current model, I would have to live with any HDMI issues it has.
> 
> Unfortunately, to my dismay, Anthem no longer supports upgrading the D2. Since I can't get a break on an upgrade, it would only be right to look at what other processors are good to consider in addition to Anthem. Unlike when I bought my D2, I no longer listen critically to music on my home theater (mainly due to lack of time). I use my Home Theater just for movies. So, I think this rules out the D2v and makes the 50v a candidate. Also, in the past the D2 was touted as being more potentially upgradable than the 50, but I think that's really no longer the case with the D2v and 50v.
> 
> Anyway, the Integra 80.3 is one of the other processors that I am considering. It has the latest bells and whistles and a really nice feature list and Ethernet connectivity/upgradability. . Of course, sound is important but it's hard to compare the two given dealerships for the two aren't that common (hence it's good to hear from folks with experience with the two).
> 
> One thing that I'd really like to know, since you have an Integra and an Anthem, is: how does Anthem and Integra compare when it comes to reliability, lack of firmware bugs, and HDMI handshaking issues (which was something of a struggle with the D2)? I really would like a new processor that I won't be spending a lot of time with debugging issues.
> 
> Thanks..



If wii forget about the DTS hd 7.1 issue, there issent any difference i liability. The anthem dosent clic and make Sounds when there a charges in Sound etc


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22202158
> 
> 
> Speaking of something new...has anyone here heard the Classe SSP 800? How does that stack up against the D2v?



I don't know what kind of room correction it has, but I suspect with ARC the D2v will be missing nothing compared to that Classe.

John


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22203073
> 
> 
> I don't know what kind of room correction it has, but I suspect with ARC the D2v will be missing nothing compared to that Classe.
> 
> John


The Classe has no automated room correction.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22203828
> 
> 
> The Classe has no automated room correction.



Then the choice is a no brainer unless you have treated your room so well that it is out of the equation.

John


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22202146
> 
> 
> I own a D2 and have *no intention* of wasting Money on SOMETHING NEW.
> 
> I have a 7.1 Speaker setup and a great 3D Projector.
> 
> If you have excess money to *BURN* - send some my WAY



That's the problem with this hobby.... Got the itch to upgrade after all these years with the D2...


I just need to remind myself that using 5.1 LPCM out with surround mode for rear speakers is probably good enough given that 7.1 rear effects are probably not that big a deal for most movies... What mode do you use for Blu-Rays with your 7.1 system?


I'm not that big of a 3D fan, but i'm about to upgrade my projector and I suppose as long as the projector has two HDMI inputs, I can use one of them for a direct feed from my Oppo BDP-93 for 3D movies.


I'm kind of peeved that Anthem No longer let D2 users upgrade anymore ... Need to fight the itch to upgrade. It's not just the cost of a new processor, but all the many many hours/days required to spend rewiring things, setup, upgrade firmware, keeping up with the latest info in this thread, etc. . Things I used to love when I first got my D2 but sadly have little time to do these days (and I prefer to spend more time watching movies than tweaking a new system...). Got to fight the urge to upgrade. Repeat.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500_100#post_22204515
> 
> 
> What mode do you use for Blu-Rays with your 7.1 system?.



I let the D2 Generate 7.1 from 5.1.


How many Blu-Ray Movies have 7.1 sound in the 1st place.


Extremely a *LOW NUMBER*


If you don't believe me - go through your Library and count them up????????????


----------



## AVfile

WHAT *MODE*?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22203938
> 
> 
> Then the choice is a no brainer unless you have treated your room so well that it is out of the equation.


When I finished my room I had to select a processor to replace the Tag McLaren, as I wanted HDMI for HD audio. Spent a lot of time weighing the SSP-800 and the D2v.


What I learned from previous experience with MultEQ XT in a few units was that it did not hit the nail on the head relative to my taste in target curve. Not even sure the big Denon prepro had XT32 PRO at that time (3 years ago). I liked that ARC allowed manual cutoff of the correction. The room gain adjustment was good too, but I also wanted to avoid spending any of the prepro money on video processing.


Monitoring the two threads back then showed both units had their share of bugs, but I was seeing a good amount of them in the video proc for the D2v but not so much in the SSP (HDMI handshakes mostly). [Currently the SSP is very bug free. I know as I found over 2 dozen of them!)


Having used manual EQs over the years and the PEQ in the Tag I was confident I could dial it in, so I went with the SSP. For subwoofer EQ I start with 4 subs driven by a JBL BassQ which really evens out the bass response around the seats, then I use the PEQ to fine tune.


I had an AP20 here about a year ago so I could play with Dirac Live, and it works great, and has "Audyssey Pro"-like target curve adjustment. Its EQ sounded better in certain respects than what I had dialed in myself via the PEQ, so I used REW to see the Dirac correction curves and used them as a template to create a basic curve fit in PEQ. What amazed me is that they sounded essentially the same at that point. Since then I have made some additional tweaks to my house curve as I listen well below reference yet I still want to hear the bottom octave.


I really like the idea of automatic EQ with a properly sampled multi-mic capture, but only if I can bias the target curve to my liking. Very few products do that. The new Datasat RS-20i may be the king of that hill.


Doing manual EQ tuning with the SSP is no picnic if you want really good results, but at least the latest FW release added a handy wideband pink noise signal in each channel so it is possible to read them without disconnecting amps or speakers to kill unwanted outputs.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22204896
> 
> 
> WHAT *MODE*?


There is only one mode that makes 7.1 from 5.1 in the D2: PLIIx.


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22204970
> 
> 
> When I finished my room I had to select a processor to replace the Tag McLaren, as I wanted HDMI for HD audio. Spent a lot of time weighing the SSP-800 and the D2v.
> 
> What I learned from previous experience with MultEQ XT in a few units was that it did not hit the nail on the head relative to my taste in target curve. Not even sure the big Denon prepro had XT32 PRO at that time (3 years ago). I liked that ARC allowed manual cutoff of the correction. The room gain adjustment was good too, but I also wanted to avoid spending any of the prepro money on video processing.
> 
> Monitoring the two threads back then showed both units had their share of bugs, but I was seeing a good amount of them in the video proc for the D2v but not so much in the SSP (HDMI handshakes mostly). [Currently the SSP is very bug free. I know as I found over 2 dozen of them!)
> 
> Having used manual EQs over the years and the PEQ in the Tag I was confident I could dial it in, so I went with the SSP. For subwoofer EQ I start with 4 subs driven by a JBL BassQ which really evens out the bass response around the seats, then I use the PEQ to fine tune.
> 
> I had an AP20 here about a year ago so I could play with Dirac Live, and it works great, and has "Audyssey Pro"-like target curve adjustment. Its EQ sounded better in certain respects than what I had dialed in myself via the PEQ, so I used REW to see the Dirac correction curves and used them as a template to create a basic curve fit in PEQ. What amazed me is that they sounded essentially the same at that point. Since then I have made some additional tweaks to my house curve as I listen well below reference yet I still want to hear the bottom octave.
> 
> I really like the idea of automatic EQ with a properly sampled multi-mic capture, but only if I can bias the target curve to my liking. Very few products do that. The new Datasat RS-20i may be the king of that hill.
> 
> Doing manual EQ tuning with the SSP is no picnic if you want really good results, but at least the latest FW release added a handy wideband pink noise signal in each channel so it is possible to read them without disconnecting amps or speakers to kill unwanted outputs.




Interesting... I went through almost exactly the same process searching for a replacement for my Tag McLaren AV192R (via the Audyssey external processor), but ended up with a D2v. I now wish I had gone with the SSP800 because I'm fed-up with the lack of progress and enhancements on the D2v and recently found out that despite paying a hell-of-a-lot more in the UK (£7,500... over $11k) and meeting the stated serial number requirements for the "free" Bypass upgrade (which I only want because my new Panasonic P65VT50 does a much better job of scaling/deinterlacing than the buggy and underused VXP in the D2v), this does not apply outside of the USA, or so my Dealer tells me. So, not happy with Anthem.

Regards


Russ


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22204981
> 
> 
> There is only one mode that makes 7.1 from 5.1 in the D2: PLIIx.



What about THX Ultra2 Cinema?


----------



## chileboy

Any chance of some help with this ?


Thanks...


- Mark


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22212114
> 
> 
> Any chance of some help with this ?
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> - Mark



I hesitated to answer as I do not have any experience with streaming using Twonky and a PS3. I do know that I heard on several forums that Twonky was often considered a poor way to stream video.

Concerning your problem with the Anthem and HDMI my main question would be why not take the component output of the Anthem directly into your tv instead of using HDMI and the Fury.

It should work better.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22212297
> 
> 
> I hesitated to answer as I do not have any experience with streaming using Twonky and a PS3. I do know that I heard on several forums that Twonky was often considered a poor way to stream video.
> 
> Concerning your problem with the Anthem and HDMI my main question would be why not take the component output of the Anthem directly into your tv instead of using HDMI and the Fury.
> 
> It should work better.


Well, as I said, I'm not sure the problem is directly related to Twonky (which I'm only using to stream audio, BTW), as I get the same burst of hiss simply changing sources, as though it's trying to lock onto the audio signal or something.


Regarding the HDFury, I was cabled that way (i.e., via component out), but the Anthem won't allow you to use an HDMI source with component out, so I couldn't access the Dolby TrueHD or DTS HT on Blu-Ray sources, nor could I use my Roku, etc., that have only HDMI out (no component).


Wasn't meaning to sound impatient...I appreciate the help, thanks.


- Mark


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22211986
> 
> 
> What about THX Ultra2 Cinema?


The description I have for Ultra2 Cinema is:


> Quote:
> THX Ultra2 Cinema. This mode is identical to THX Cinema, except it does a "soft EX decoding", giving us some output from the rear, but does not allow the sound to collapse there. Surround sound predominantly comes from the side dipole speakers.


That sounds like 6.1 to me.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22212574
> 
> 
> Well, as I said, I'm not sure the problem is directly related to Twonky (which I'm only using to stream audio, BTW), as I get the same burst of hiss simply changing sources, as though it's trying to lock onto the audio signal or something.



You could try changing the "Muting" setting in the source setup. IIRC that controls how long the 50/D2 mutes the output when it detects a change in source, that might let the source "sync" better before it turns the audio back on.


----------



## wingnut4772

My D2V came in today! I am just getting the hook ups etc. Haven't even calibrated or anything. It's not the most intuitive processor, I will say that. I couldn't resist putting the Squeezebox on though and all I gotta say is Wowza!


----------



## wingnut4772

Ok Questions....




I keep setting the Bass Management ( Both music and movie) Subs to 2 but it keeps reverting back to 1. Even after I save the settings. Why?


Also....I personally have to set speaker distance and level or does ARC do this?


And what do most people set their room gain to and how do I determine? The default. sounds pretty good though.


----------



## dkojevnikov

Just measure the distance from speakers to your main listening position and set those numbers as a starting point. Then you have to either trust your ears or use SPL meter or even better calibrated microphone with any freeware software to adjust those distances so that to align the phases. It is especially critical for subwoofer distance near the crossover point. ARC won't do it for you although it could provide some manual mode for helping with this. I am using calibrated microphone and free HolmImpulse software and varying speaker distances does have a significant influence on real (not simulated) response curve. I just try to find the setting so that my combined curves (left + subwoofer, right + subwoofer) were as close to a reference curve as it is possible. One trick that helps a lot is to calculate and upload settings with room gain set to zero, in this case target curve will be flat at it is easier to do phase alignment. After you set distances you can reupload settings with automatically calculated room gain.


Or you can just play you favorite songs while changing the subwoofer distance (plus/minus 6 feet) to find the sweet spot.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22214057
> 
> 
> Ok Questions....
> 
> I keep setting the Bass Management ( Both music and movie) Subs to 2 but it keeps reverting back to 1. Even after I save the settings. Why?
> 
> Also....I personally have to set speaker distance and level or does ARC do this?
> 
> And what do most people set their room gain to and how do I determine? The default. sounds pretty good though.




From the D2v manual, Page 25, Speaker Setup 3.3


Subwoofer


Choose 1 SUB

Use this setting when using ARC and using one or more subwoofers


----------



## AVfile

You're right wingnut, not the most intuitive, especially some of the remote shortcut keys as you may discover (i.e. holding down buttons like '7' or 'Back' to bring up a menu).


I have no experience with multiple subs but I do know that the Anthem only has a single LFE/bass channel so I think you will generally leave that set to 1 sub even if you are using both sub outputs.


You personally have to set the speaker distances. Tip: if you have an SPL meter set the test tone noise level via the menu to 75dB before running ARC, try to get your sub's gain level close to that too, then ARC takes care of the rest.


Most people go with the default room gain. ARC measures your actual room gain and sets targets to achieve the nominal room gain (3.94).


edit: Just noticed the others beat me to it, sorry all.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22214319
> 
> 
> From the D2v manual, Page 25, Speaker Setup 3.3
> 
> Subwoofer
> 
> Choose 1 SUB
> 
> Use this setting when using ARC and using one or more subwoofers



Thank you, yes. I read that. I asked my dealer about it and he said I could select 2 and use ARC so I am pretty confused. I have my 4 subs hooked up in pairs with a Y cable. The first pair on Sub 1 and the second on Sub 2.


When I run ARC it does ping all 4 subs but the setting reverts to one sub. Why ? I just want to make sure all 4 are in play after the fact and it doesn't make much sense to me ....?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22214673
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22214319
> 
> 
> From the D2v manual, Page 25, Speaker Setup 3.3
> 
> Subwoofer
> 
> Choose 1 SUB
> 
> Use this setting when using ARC and using one or more subwoofers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, yes. I read that. I asked my dealer about it and he said I could select 2 and use ARC so I am pretty confused. I have my 4 subs hooked up in pairs with a Y cable. The first pair on Sub 1 and the second on Sub 2.
> 
> 
> When I run ARC it does ping all 4 subs but the setting reverts to one sub. Why ? I just want to make sure all 4 are in play after the fact and it doesn't make much sense to me ....?
Click to expand...


The 1 Sub vs. 2 Subs setting alters how the Subwoofer volume trims are interpreted in Setup > Level Calibration. That's the only difference.


The values that ARC Uploads into Level Calibration are calculated assuming 1 Sub is set, and so when using ARC you should set 1 Sub even if you have more than 1 so that the Movie/Music values ARC Uploads for the volume trims for your combination of Subwoofers are interpreted/applied correctly.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22214772
> 
> 
> The 1 Sub vs. 2 Subs setting alters how the Subwoofer volume trims are interpreted in Setup > Level Calibration. That's the only difference.
> 
> The values that ARC Uploads into Level Calibration are calculated assuming 1 Sub is set, and so when using ARC you should set 1 Sub even if you have more than 1 so that the Movie/Music values ARC Uploads for the volume trims for your combination of Subwoofers are interpreted/applied correctly.
> 
> --Bob




I see. So even at Sub 1 if I have the subs hooked up to both 1 and 2 Sub 2 will get used?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22214824
> 
> 
> I see. So even at Sub 1 if I have the subs hooked up to both 1 and 2 Sub 2 will get used?



Yes. Indeed you can have all FOUR Sub outputs connected (2 RCA and 2 XLR) and they'll all be live even though you have specified "1 Sub".

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

 *Warning: Spoiler!* (Click to show) 


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22215351
> 
> 
> Yes. Indeed you can have all FOUR Sub outputs connected (2 RCA and 2 XLR) and they'll all be live even though you have specified "1 Sub".
> 
> --Bob



Well ain't that a hoot! Thanks.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22214824
> 
> 
> I see. So even at Sub 1 if I have the subs hooked up to both 1 and 2 Sub 2 will get used?



Your Subwoofer connections are OK


Next step would be setting the volume levels of your speakers and then checking the phases of your subwoofers


From Bob Pariseau - How to set Set your volume levels for all your speakers


Prior to running the ARC measurements, there is another step to do to get the test tone volumes correct:


Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB. Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up). Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.


Remember -Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.


Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position. There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.


ARC will use the Noise Level setting you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones, and the adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, can be level adjusted properly to match. If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.



Then follow these instructions from Bob Pariseau for your subs


1) Go to Setup > Speaker Configuration and specify that you have only 1 sub. This is the necessary setting for use with ARC regardless of how many subs you have. Always specify "1 Sub" if you intend to use ARC.


2) Next set the sub volumes separately.

Turn one sub off (at the sub itself -- unplug it if necessary). Go to Setup > Level Calibration. Zero out every line in there. Then set Noise Level to produce 75dB SPL (the LF speaker will be the one playing). Then scroll to either sub line and, leaving that line at 0dB, adjust the volume knob in the still powered sub to produce 73dB SPL (not 75dB). Turn off that sub and turn on the other sub (again, at the subs). Adjust it's volume knob to also produce 73dB. You are done. In combo they'll produce roughly 75dB and they are balance with respect to each other. "Roughly" is close enough.


3) Next set the phase for each sub separately.



With only one sub powered at a time, adjust the Polarity/Phase for that sub to best match the LF speaker. Use the phase/polarity controls on the sub itself. You'll need the phase adjustment tones on a calibration DVD -- details are in those post links in the first post of this thread. When both subs are in phase with LF then they are also in phase with each other.


Dmusoke provided this for setting subwoofer phasing: http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/31380#post_19542630 for setting the Subwoofer phasing


4) Now do ARC Measurement (with BOTH subs powered on). ARC will hear the two subs as a combo and will correct accordingly. This is the only proper way to use ARC with more than one sub.


5) After you do your ARC Upload you should find that 1 Sub is still specified. The speaker volume trim and crossover uploaded for the sub will be the correct values for your combo of two subs.


----------



## wingnut4772

Very helpful. Thank you. I had them all 4 subs at 75db together from my previous Audyssey set up but I will try this tonight.


----------



## uberanalyst

Time to replace either my Statement D2 or my Oppo BDP-93? Apparently they're incompatible.


Now that our dedicated home theater room is "finished" and I've re-run ARC to re-tune the acoustics, I'm back to a problem that I've had since getting the Oppo.
1. Multichannel DVD-Audio and SACD discs will never play music through my rear speakers in a 7.1 configuration. The D2 display simply says PCM "6-channel" and won't let me select any audio processing surround modes such as DPL Iix, or Anthem's music mode. The result is that I can get 5.1 rear channel music out the "side" speakers but nothing out the "rear" speakers -- they're silent.


For those DVD-Audio or SACD discs with selectable 2-channel audio tracks, 7.1 surround modes (such as DPL Iix) work just fine. Blu-Ray discs also play OK, with the D2 generating 7.1 surround out the sides and rears using DPL Iix. It's DVD-Audio and SACD 5.1 recordings that won't play out the rear speakers.


2. DVD-Audio or SACD discs without center channel content, (multichannel 4.0 or 4.1 recordings) won't play ANY music through ANY speakers. Video from the Oppo displays just fine, but there is only silence in the theater. The Oppo displays "4.0" or "4.1" when I push the 'i" button on the Oppo remote.


3. SACD discs without a ".1" subwoofer channel (multichannel 5.0 recordings) also won't play ANY music through ANY speakers.


Since the D2 is only HDMI 1.1, all audio/video is being routed over HDMI to the D2 as "LPCM" (i.e., the Oppo decodes all multichannel audio). I've tried both HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 outs of the Oppo, with no difference in behavior. The HDMI chain is Oppo BDP-93 --> D2 --> JVC DLA-RS1 projector.


I really want to be able to utilize all 7 speakers when listening to surround SACDs or DVD-Audio discs. Silent rear speakers (or complete silence on some discs) won't do.


Do I sell the Anthem D2 or the Oppo? (My hunch is the problem is D2 firmware -- I'm running 1.47f in the D2, which is the last update Anthem ever released.) Will I have the same problem if I replace the D2 with a D2v?


----------



## Roger Dressler

^^ The Oppo is working correctly. No point in replacing it.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22215936
> 
> 
> Time to replace either my Statement D2 or my Oppo BDP-93? Apparently they're incompatible.
> 
> Now that our dedicated home theater room is "finished" and I've re-run ARC to re-tune the acoustics, I'm back to a problem that I've had since getting the Oppo.
> 1. Multichannel DVD-Audio and SACD discs will never play music through my rear speakers in a 7.1 configuration. The D2 display simply says PCM "6-channel" and won't let me select any audio processing surround modes such as DPL Iix, or Anthem's music mode. The result is that I can get 5.1 rear channel music out the "side" speakers but nothing out the "rear" speakers -- they're silent.
> 
> For those DVD-Audio or SACD discs with selectable 2-channel audio tracks, 7.1 surround modes (such as DPL Iix) work just fine. Blu-Ray discs also play OK, with the D2 generating 7.1 surround out the sides and rears using DPL Iix. It's DVD-Audio and SACD 5.1 recordings that won't play out the rear speakers.
> 
> 2. DVD-Audio or SACD discs without center channel content, (multichannel 4.0 or 4.1 recordings) won't play ANY music through ANY speakers. Video from the Oppo displays just fine, but there is only silence in the theater. The Oppo displays "4.0" or "4.1" when I push the 'i" button on the Oppo remote.
> 
> 3. SACD discs without a ".1" subwoofer channel (multichannel 5.0 recordings) also won't play ANY music through ANY speakers.
> Since the D2 is only HDMI 1.1, all audio/video is being routed over HDMI to the D2 as "LPCM" (i.e., the Oppo decodes all multichannel audio). I've tried both HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 outs of the Oppo, with no difference in behavior. The HDMI chain is Oppo BDP-93 --> D2 --> JVC DLA-RS1 projector.
> 
> I really want to be able to utilize all 7 speakers when listening to surround SACDs or DVD-Audio discs. Silent rear speakers (or complete silence on some discs) won't do.
> 
> Do I sell the Anthem D2 or the Oppo? (My hunch is the problem is D2 firmware -- I'm running 1.47f in the D2, which is the last update Anthem ever released.) Will I have the same problem if
> 
> I replace the D2 with a D2v?



Check your OPPO and D2 setup as multichannel SACDs play perfect with 5.1 + PLIIx.


OPPO setup

Secondary Audio - OFF

Menu Sound - OFF

HDMI Audio - *LPCM*

SACD Output - *PCM*

Coaxial Optical - Any

LPCM Rate Limit - 96k (for a D2)


You can also use the Multichannel Analog Audio setup as your OPPO 93 has an audiophile DAC for audiophile analog sound.


Here is what I use for multichannel SACDs

Use the 8 channel OPPO outputs using only the LF,RF,C, RS,LS and Sub SE connections from the OPPO

and input to the 6 channel D2 input.

Then choose the 6 channel in setup.

You can then use Analog DSP and utilize 5. 1 + PL11x for 7.1.


I am not aware of how often you may find a 4.0 or 4.1 recordings. I have none in my library.


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22216330
> 
> 
> Check your OPPO and D2 setup as multichannel SACDs play perfect with 5.1 + PLIIx.
> 
> OPPO setup
> 
> Secondary Audio - OFF
> 
> Menu Sound - OFF
> 
> HDMI Audio - *LPCM*
> 
> SACD Output - *PCM*
> 
> Coaxial Optical - Any
> 
> LPCM Rate Limit - 96k (for a D2)
> 
> You can also use the Multichannel Analog Audio setup as your OPPO 93 has an audiophile DAC for audiophile analog sound.
> 
> Here is what I use for multichannel SACDs
> 
> Use the 8 channel OPPO outputs using only the LF,RF,C, RS,LS and Sub SE connections from the OPPO
> 
> and input to the 6 channel D2 input.
> 
> Then choose the 6 channel in setup.
> 
> You can then use Analog DSP and utilize 5. 1 + PL11x for 7.1.
> 
> I am not aware of how often you may find a 4.0 or 4.1 recordings. I have none in my library.



Thanks for the suggestions.


I went back and checked my Oppo settings: they all agree with yours EXCEPT "Menu Sound - OFF" which doesn't seem to exist anywhere in the menu structure (I'm running the latest Oppo firmware version). The closest thing I could find was to set the Oppo's on-screen display (OSD) to "Silent."


Once again I tried a 5.1 multichannel SACD (The Telarc Sampler Vol. 1), and can only get sound out of the 7.1 "side" surrounds, not the "rear." There's no way to select DPL IIx -- if I hit the "Mode" button on the D2, the OSD and front D2 panel display shows "6-Channel INPUT, None." No amount of turning a knob or button pushing will let me apply ANY surround modes to the SACD 5.1 channel mix in order to get sound out of the rear surround speakers.


FWIW, I've got the Oppo HDMI set to 1080p, 24 fps, and 4:4:4 video. I've also set the Oppo speakers configuration to down mix 7.1 to 5.1 (since the D2 can't support native 7.1 content).


I'd really like to avoid the analog cabling hookup you suggested, since that would require going digital-->analog-->digital. I prefer to maintain a pure digital audio signal over HDMI without the extra conversions.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22213115
> 
> 
> You could try changing the "Muting" setting in the source setup. IIRC that controls how long the 50/D2 mutes the output when it detects a change in source, that might let the source "sync" better before it turns the audio back on.


That helped, but did not completely solve the issue - the hiss is just shorter in duration.


Something doesn't seem right - I mean, I have a Denon DVD-3910, and if I am sitting at the main menu of the DVD, simply selecting menu items causes the hiss. What I mean is, if the DVD menu shows, for instance, "Play Movie", "Settings" and "Extras" and I select "Settings", I get 1-3 seconds of hiss until the menu finishes loading. Is that normal?


Same thing happens on a Blu-ray loaded in my PS3.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22216635
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions.
> 
> I went back and checked my Oppo settings: they all agree with yours EXCEPT "Menu Sound - OFF" which doesn't seem to exist anywhere in the menu structure (I'm running the latest Oppo firmware version). The closest thing I could find was to set the Oppo's on-screen display (OSD) to "Silent."
> 
> Once again I tried a 5.1 multichannel SACD (The Telarc Sampler Vol. 1), and can only get sound out of the 7.1 "side" surrounds, not the "rear." There's no way to select DPL IIx -- if I hit the "Mode" button on the D2, the OSD and front D2 panel display shows "6-Channel INPUT, None." No amount of turning a knob or button pushing will let me apply ANY surround modes to the SACD 5.1 channel mix in order to get sound out of the rear surround speakers.
> 
> FWIW, I've got the Oppo HDMI set to 1080p, 24 fps, and 4:4:4 video. I've also set the Oppo speakers configuration to down mix 7.1 to 5.1 (since the D2 can't support native 7.1 content).
> 
> I'd really like to avoid the analog cabling hookup you suggested, since that would require going digital-->analog-->digital. I prefer to maintain a pure digital audio signal over HDMI without the extra conversions.


I have pretty much the same setup. To be honest I haven't done much SACD or DVD-A listening since upgrading from the 83 to the 93. I'll see if I can't duplicate your issues this weekend. I have the Tearc sampler I believe. My memory is rusty but wasn't this an issue with the 83 too?


ETA:I should mention I'm still running the 1.33 official firmware never upgraded and I'm still using the Oppo firmware that allows iso playback.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37500#post_22190134
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by RobertR View Post
> 
> 
> Found it. DPL IIx won't extract the rear channels on DTS MA and PCM if there is no center channel (I use a phantom center). The rears only appear on Dolby tracks (either lossless or lossy), and DTS lossy.
> 
> 
> Be sure to let Anthem know what you found so they can add it to the bug list.


I notified Anthem of the bug and they said they'd check it. But the only followup so far has been to say "try version 3.00a". I'm disappointed in Anthem. They didn't even bother to say they're working on it.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22216635
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions.
> 
> I went back and checked my Oppo settings: they all agree with yours EXCEPT "Menu Sound - OFF" which doesn't seem to exist anywhere in the menu structure (I'm running the latest Oppo firmware version). The closest thing I could find was to set the Oppo's on-screen display (OSD) to "Silent."
> 
> Once again I tried a 5.1 multichannel SACD (The Telarc Sampler Vol. 1), and can only get sound out of the 7.1 "side" surrounds, not the "rear." There's no way to select DPL IIx -- if I hit the "Mode" button on the D2, the OSD and front D2 panel display shows "6-Channel INPUT, None." No amount of turning a knob or button pushing will let me apply ANY surround modes to the SACD 5.1 channel mix in order to get sound out of the rear surround speakers.
> 
> FWIW, I've got the Oppo HDMI set to 1080p, 24 fps, and 4:4:4 video. I've also set the Oppo speakers configuration to down mix 7.1 to 5.1 (since the D2 can't support native 7.1 content).
> 
> I'd really like to avoid the analog cabling hookup you suggested, since that would require going digital-->analog-->digital. I prefer to maintain a pure digital audio signal over HDMI without the extra conversions.



uberanalyst


If you are using CD as the source for playing SACD and do not have the Audio In set to Dig HDMI there is no selection of modes

Also the Scaler Input should be the HDMI connection # where the OPPO is connected in the D2.

I set up CD as analog and used DVD2 for SACD

Go into the setup and select DVD 2 as your source for playing SACD or DVD-A.

You can rename it as SACD if you want.

Set up this source as on page 33 of the D2 manual selecting bass management as movie or music not LFE

Then follow Page 33 choosing PLIIx for A, B,C,D and E

Also

Double check your Anthem connections and other settings for the D2

Reference Page 24 for the correct speaker configuration and that your rears are set to direct or dipole 7.1

Make sure in Bass Management you do not have surrounds or rears set to None


----------



## p.las

I have send anthem a mail , regards the DTS HD MR 7.1 issue. I like to know how long time it Will take before there is a fix. i am starting to fear there issent going to bee a fix........is it two years now sins the first report of the issue?


----------



## Kensmith48

I'm thinking of adding a DarbeeVision Darbet to my system. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience using a D2v with this unit.


----------



## stanger89

The Darblet works fine with my 50V, thought I had to replace some of my HDMI cables because apparently they were marginal (at best)


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22217233
> 
> 
> uberanalyst
> 
> If you are using CD as the source for playing SACD and do not have the Audio In set to Dig HDMI there is no selection of modes
> 
> Also the Scaler Input should be the HDMI connection # where the OPPO is connected in the D2.
> 
> I set up CD as analog and used DVD2 for SACD
> 
> Go into the setup and select DVD 2 as your source for playing SACD or DVD-A.
> 
> You can rename it as SACD if you want.
> 
> Set up this source as on page 33 of the D2 manual selecting bass management as movie or music not LFE
> 
> Then follow Page 33 choosing PLIIx for A, B,C,D and E
> 
> Also
> 
> Double check your Anthem connections and other settings for the D2
> 
> Reference Page 24 for the correct speaker configuration and that your rears are set to direct or dipole 7.1
> 
> Make sure in Bass Management you do not have surrounds or rears set to None



Thanks again.


I've checked all my configuration parameters, and (other than the naming convention for my inputs) they are identical to what you recommended. Still no joy, with no ability to change the 6-channel HDMI surround mode from "None" despite all the presets for that input set to DPL IIx.


Are you also running firmware 1.47f in your D2? I did notice that the version 1.3 firmware D2 manual (the most recent one I could find) lists some potentially-relevant configuration parameters that are missing in 1.47f. For example, in "9. ADC/AUDIO OUTPUT" there are:


a. 6-Ch REVERSE S/R: Yes or No

b. COPY SUR To REAR: Yes or No


My D2 running 1.47f is missing these menu options -- why would Anthem delete these in newer firmware? I wonder if I need to revert to firmware 1.33? (If it's even still available?). I seem to recall that 1.47f was "beta" firmware meant to fix or speed up HDMI handshaking with the D2.


----------



## spiderv6

Help me work this out please!


I reported earlier that I had upgraded my non-3D unit to V3.0 with success except for my Dune Prime 3.0 which frequently refuses to provide audio without multiple on/off cycles that sometimes make it work and sometimes does not. Did not have any such problem in previous FW versions.


So I discovered a way to fix this (by accident) and I just can't work out why this happens....


When watching the Dune (picture but no audio) and then only powering on my PS3 - the audio immediately starts on my Dune. Switch off the PS3 and audio drops out again.


I cannot imagine what is going on here - any ideas?


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22216976
> 
> 
> I notified Anthem of the bug and they said they'd check it. But the only followup so far has been to say "try version 3.00a". I'm disappointed in Anthem. They didn't even bother to say they're working on it.


Now a new problem has popped up: with software version 3.00a, the 50v won't play audio from my HTPC. So not only did 3.00a not fix the earlier problem, it created a new one. Not good at all.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22218125
> 
> 
> Now a new problem has popped up: with software version 3.00a, the 50v won't play audio from my HTPC. So not only did 3.00a not fix the earlier problem, it created a new one. Not good at all.



I feel your pain Robert. I told them aboutt my pink haze problem when i exit setup numerous times with no resolution to the problem so far. Maybe they give preference to the newer MRX receiver units since these are the ones selling at a much faster rate than the older D2v/50v units. Or could be they are busy coding for new successors to the D2/50v units?


- David


----------



## Thxtheater

I too have started having audio drop outs with an AppleTV once sources are switched. The Anthem 50v does not register audio from either the HDMI or Toslink ports. I haven't been able to figure out if it's something that's gone wrong with the AppleTV and coincidental with the 3.0 software update or if it's something buggy with the 3.0 update. I get video just fine, so that's why I'm leaning towards it being a possible 3.0 bug.


Theo


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22217834
> 
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> I've checked all my configuration parameters, and (other than the naming convention for my inputs) they are identical to what you recommended. Still no joy, with no ability to change the 6-channel HDMI surround mode from "None" despite all the presets for that input set to DPL IIx.
> 
> Are you also running firmware 1.47f in your D2? I did notice that the version 1.3 firmware D2 manual (the most recent one I could find) lists some potentially-relevant configuration parameters that are missing in 1.47f. For example, in "9. ADC/AUDIO OUTPUT" there are:
> 
> a. 6-Ch REVERSE S/R: Yes or No
> 
> b. COPY SUR To REAR: Yes or No
> 
> My D2 running 1.47f is missing these menu options -- why would Anthem delete these in newer firmware? I wonder if I need to revert to firmware 1.33? (If it's even still available?). I seem to recall that 1.47f was "beta" firmware meant to fix or speed up HDMI handshaking with the D2.



I no longer have my D2 which was running 1.47f and when I had it I had zero problems with the rear channels. I bought a D2v because I wanted the Dolby and DTS HD audio capabilities of the D2v as I stream BluRay videos from a PCH 200 and PCH 300 and they pass through the DTS and Dolby HD audio. .

I suggest you contact Anthem support describing the problem. And keep on them about it.

Describe exactly what is happening with the rear channels. Also your setup and the fact that you hear audio from the rear channels with other sources and when using the sound

level adjustments for ARC.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22217834
> 
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> I've checked all my configuration parameters, and (other than the naming convention for my inputs) they are identical to what you recommended. Still no joy, with no ability to change the 6-channel HDMI surround mode from "None" despite all the presets for that input set to DPL IIx.
> 
> Are you also running firmware 1.47f in your D2? I did notice that the version 1.3 firmware D2 manual (the most recent one I could find) lists some potentially-relevant configuration parameters that are missing in 1.47f. For example, in "9. ADC/AUDIO OUTPUT" there are:
> 
> a. 6-Ch REVERSE S/R: Yes or No
> 
> b. COPY SUR To REAR: Yes or No
> 
> My D2 running 1.47f is missing these menu options -- why would Anthem delete these in newer firmware? I wonder if I need to revert to firmware 1.33? (If it's even still available?). I seem to recall that 1.47f was "beta" firmware meant to fix or speed up HDMI handshaking with the D2.



Ran a quick test with the Telarc sampler this evening while waiting for the wife to start a movie. I was able to apply the Dolby modes and DTS NEO-6 processing and get sound to my rears. I am running the production 1.33 firmware so you may what to try reverting to that. It is still on Anthems site here. I should also mention my Oppo 93 is running the older iso enabled BDP9x-61-1219 firmware.


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/17880#post_15546653
> 
> 
> The D2 and D2v are in the "near exotic" class of equipment in my estimation -- and Anthem expects you to pay for that. Such equipment exhibits diminishing returns -- you can pay a lot more for only a little improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> As comparison, I would say that folks who added ARC to their original AVM 50 (an incredible bargain of an upgrade) probably got more net return in audio quality than if they had gone from the AVM 50 without ARC to a D2 without ARC.
> 
> 
> All of this stuff is incredibly hard to sort out. What's really needed is to find a way to compare the two units in actual use. But unfortunately that is not possible for most people due to the dealers simply not keeping demo units...
> 
> 
> --Bob



Above is an old quote from Bob made 3 or so years ago. Is it fair to conclude that this also applies to the latest and greatest 3D versions of the D2v and 50v?


I got the D2 when it first came out and a major reason I got it in favor of the 50 was that it was unclear if Anthem would provide ARC for the 50 (given that the D2 had more powerful DSP and Anthem said they were not sure if ARC would be available for the 50). Well, turns out that wasn't the case. Also, at the time, i had just upgraded to Paradigm Signature speakers and also listened to music more critically back then (but these days movies are it).


Unfortunately, as Bob indicated, it's virtually impossible to find a dealer that has both D2v and 50v in their showroom. It's hard enough to find an Anthem dealer that carries either one!


Is it fair to conclude that the sonic differences between the D2v and 50v are somewhat similar to the difference (i.e. small) between the Oppo BDP-93 and BDP-95? I know we're taking apples and oranges here, but I'm trying to gauge the differences without the benefit of actually being able to compare them myself.


Thanks


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22219535
> 
> 
> Ran a quick test with the Telarc sampler this evening while waiting for the wife to start a movie. I was able to apply the Dolby modes and DTS NEO-6 processing and get sound to my rears. I am running the production 1.33 firmware so you may what to try reverting to that. It is still on Anthems site here. I should also mention my Oppo 93 is running the older iso enabled BDP9x-61-1219 firmware.



Thanks for the test. Sounds like I need to "downgrade" D2 firmware from 1.47f back to 1.33 to get the surround modes back for SACDs and DVD-A discs playing on the Oppo. I'll give it a try.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37620#post_22219685
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22219535
> 
> 
> Ran a quick test with the Telarc sampler this evening while waiting for the wife to start a movie. I was able to apply the Dolby modes and DTS NEO-6 processing and get sound to my rears. I am running the production 1.33 firmware so you may what to try reverting to that. It is still on Anthems site here. I should also mention my Oppo 93 is running the older iso enabled BDP9x-61-1219 firmware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the test. Sounds like I need to "downgrade" D2 firmware from 1.47f back to 1.33 to get the surround modes back for SACDs and DVD-A discs playing on the Oppo. I'll give it a try.
Click to expand...


The V1.33 firmware *REMAINS* the correct firmware to use with the original D2. The V1.47f "test" firmware has some changes specific to fixing issues with certain displays, but unless Anthem tech support has suggested you use it, you should be using V1.33.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22218125
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22216976
> 
> 
> I notified Anthem of the bug and they said they'd check it. But the only followup so far has been to say "try version 3.00a". I'm disappointed in Anthem. They didn't even bother to say they're working on it.
> 
> 
> 
> Now a new problem has popped up: with software version 3.00a, the 50v won't play audio from my HTPC. So not only did 3.00a not fix the earlier problem, it created a new one. Not good at all.
Click to expand...


Firmware V3.00a is not even out as "test" firmware yet on the normal, password protected page. It sounds like Anthem has asked you to try it for diagnostic purposes, since there are changes being made in it that could alter the code path in the area where you are having your problem, even though there's no fix in it specific to your problem. Sounds to me like they are trying to gather additional information for the engineers -- or as you might put it, they ARE working on the problem.


Be sure Anthem knows what you found with it, and then just roll back to prior firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22219683
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22217928
> 
> 
> Help me work this out please!
> 
> I reported earlier that I had upgraded my non-3D unit to V3.0 with success except for my Dune Prime 3.0 which frequently refuses to provide audio without multiple on/off cycles that sometimes make it work and sometimes does not. Did not have any such problem in previous FW versions.
> 
> So I discovered a way to fix this (by accident) and I just can't work out why this happens....
> 
> When watching the Dune (picture but no audio) and then only powering on my PS3 - the audio immediately starts on my Dune. Switch off the PS3 and audio drops out again.
> 
> I cannot imagine what is going on here - any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Spiderv6,
> 
> 
> Please read posts 37385, 37387, 37396 and 37398. I have a similar problem to yours with my 50V using firmware 3.0, so I have reverted to a prior version. With 3.0 firmware, I cannot get audio from HDMI 2,3,4,6,7,8 UNLESS I have an HDMI source connected and turned on ( such as the PS3) on HDMI ports 1 or 5. Like you, I thought it had something bizarre to do with the PS3 or my cables but after exhaustive testing, I have to conclude that the fault lies with the combination of the 50V and the 3.0 firmware. No other firmware produces this problem. Have you tried your HDMI 2 out? Is it working properly? Out of curiosity, what is the revision number of your mezzanine boards? You can see them through the top grill with a flashlight. Mine are Ver C 02. My main board is Ver N. It has a green dot which presumably means it passed inspection at the time of manufacture. All are dated Aug 26 2008. I suspect you may have the same board revisions and/or a similar hardware fault to me.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Certz
Click to expand...


Perhaps this helps explain why firmware V3.00 has not yet been posted as an "official" upgrade for the 50v or D2v (without 3D hardware)?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22219623
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/17880#post_15546653
> 
> 
> The D2 and D2v are in the "near exotic" class of equipment in my estimation -- and Anthem expects you to pay for that. Such equipment exhibits diminishing returns -- you can pay a lot more for only a little improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> As comparison, I would say that folks who added ARC to their original AVM 50 (an incredible bargain of an upgrade) probably got more net return in audio quality than if they had gone from the AVM 50 without ARC to a D2 without ARC.
> 
> 
> All of this stuff is incredibly hard to sort out. What's really needed is to find a way to compare the two units in actual use. But unfortunately that is not possible for most people due to the dealers simply not keeping demo units...
> 
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Above is an old quote from Bob made 3 or so years ago. Is it fair to conclude that this also applies to the latest and greatest 3D versions of the D2v and 50v?
> 
> 
> I got the D2 when it first came out and a major reason I got it in favor of the 50 was that it was unclear if Anthem would provide ARC for the 50 (given that the D2 had more powerful DSP and Anthem said they were not sure if ARC would be available for the 50). Well, turns out that wasn't the case. Also, at the time, i had just upgraded to Paradigm Signature speakers and also listened to music more critically back then (but these days movies are it).
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, as Bob indicated, it's virtually impossible to find a dealer that has both D2v and 50v in their showroom. It's hard enough to find an Anthem dealer that carries either one!
> 
> 
> Is it fair to conclude that the sonic differences between the D2v and 50v are somewhat similar to the difference (i.e. small) between the Oppo BDP-93 and BDP-95? I know we're taking apples and oranges here, but I'm trying to gauge the differences without the benefit of actually being able to compare them myself.
> 
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...


I don't know about the difference in audio between the 50v and the D2v. I've never listened to a 50v.


But I CAN tell you that when I switched from a D2 to a D2v I immediately noticed an improvement in audio. This was totally unexpected, as I knew the major hardware changes where in the video signal path, and I expected only evolutionary changes in the audio path that would be hard to detect.


As with the original 50, I'd be willing to bet the 50v is no slouch when it comes to audio. But I think it likely the D2v is better. Whether you will hear the improvement depends on lots of factors, including the quality of your speakers and amps, the type of content you play, and you own critical listening abilities.


My recommendation remains, if you can afford the price increase get the D2v. If not, get the 50v and be happy.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22219683
> 
> 
> Hi Spiderv6,
> 
> Please read posts 37385, 37387, 37396 and 37398. I have a similar problem to yours with my 50V using firmware 3.0, so I have reverted to a prior version. With 3.0 firmware, I cannot get audio from HDMI 2,3,4,6,7,8 UNLESS I have an HDMI source connected and turned on ( such as the PS3) on HDMI ports 1 or 5. Like you, I thought it had something bizarre to do with the PS3 or my cables but after exhaustive testing, I have to conclude that the fault lies with the combination of the 50V and the 3.0 firmware. No other firmware produces this problem. Have you tried your HDMI 2 out? Is it working properly? Out of curiosity, what is the revision number of your mezzanine boards? You can see them through the top grill with a flashlight. Mine are Ver C 02. My main board is Ver N. It has a green dot which presumably means it passed inspection at the time of manufacture. All are dated Aug 26 2008. I suspect you may have the same board revisions and/or a similar hardware fault to me.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Certz



Curious. Indeed my Dune is on HDMI-4 and my PS3 on HDMI-1.


I can't easily check the physical board markings, but I can tell you I have an early D2V with a serial number in the 141xxx range.


Have you reported this to Anthem and had any response?


----------



## ejn1

All,


I would appreciate some opinions on...


I have a AVM 50/ARC and moving overseas for 3-4 years to a place that has a HT AV system already installed. Due to this, I'm going to use my existing speakers, amp, etc for a two-channel music system in another room. The music source will be digital (likely a Squeezebox). I'm debating whether to (1) try and pick up used a analog preamp and DAC for my two channel system, (2) purchase a DAC and run into my AVM50 and use Analog Direct setting or nix the DAC altogether and (3) just feed the AVM directly via coax digital and get the full benefits of ARC and bass management. Appreciate the forums views on using the AVM50 as a stereo pre in the before mentioned setups compared to trying out the analog world with a separate decicated pre. The dedicated pre's I've been looking at are in the $1000-$1500 used range from Wyred 4 sound and Primare or equivalent. I would then have to add around $500-$1000 DAC which they're several to choose from that use the ESS Sabre chips.


I have heard (i think) Bob P mention that the benefits of ARC will outweigh the benefits of a high quality analog pre setup so this is resonating in the back of my mind on this one.


Many thanks,

ejn1


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37620#post_22219880
> 
> 
> The V1.33 firmware *REMAINS* the correct firmware to use with the original D2. The V1.47f "test" firmware has some changes specific to fixing issues with certain displays, but unless Anthem tech support has suggested you use it, you should be using V1.33.
> 
> --Bob



OK, tried to "down convert" my D2 from 1.47f back to 1.33 with no success.


First tried from my Mac running Boot Camp, Windows 7, and the recommended Keyspan USB-Serial adapter. The app showed "D2 found," turned on the D2, and then locked up (crashed) Windows 7! Tried this multiple times with the same result. This is the exact same configuration I successfully used to run ARC a few weeks ago, so my hardware/software should also be good to go for a firmware update.


Given this failure, I resorted to trying my ancient Dell laptop (with a real serial port!) that I had successfully used in years past for D2 firmware upgrades. The installer app showed "D2 found," turned on the D2, and then displayed the error message "Cannot connect to the OKI boot loader." Tried multiple times with no luck.


FWIW, I disconnected all the HDMI cables from the D2 when trying to install 1.33 firmware.


Is it possible that you can't go backwards from a newer to an older firmware version on the D2? Any ideas of what to try next?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37600_100#post_22220618
> 
> 
> \
> 
> Is it possible that you can't go backwards from a newer to an older firmware version on the D2? Any ideas of what to try next?



I have gone forward and backwards MANY times with my D2.


Just USE the ERASER.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37620#post_22220618
> 
> 
> OK, tried to "down convert" my D2 from 1.47f back to 1.33 with no success.
> 
> 
> First tried from my Mac running Boot Camp, Windows 7, and the recommended Keyspan USB-Serial adapter. The app showed "D2 found," turned on the D2, and then locked up (crashed) Windows 7! Tried this multiple times with the same result. This is the exact same configuration I successfully used to run ARC a few weeks ago, so my hardware/software should also be good to go for a firmware update.
> 
> 
> Given this failure, I resorted to trying my ancient Dell laptop (with a real serial port!) that I had successfully used in years past for D2 firmware upgrades. The installer app showed "D2 found," turned on the D2, and then displayed the error message "Cannot connect to the OKI boot loader." Tried multiple times with no luck.
> 
> 
> FWIW, I disconnected all the HDMI cables from the D2 when trying to install 1.33 firmware.
> 
> 
> Is it possible that you can't go backwards from a newer to an older firmware version on the D2? Any ideas of what to try next?



From the same place you got V1.47f, download and run the Flash Eraser utility. That's a Windows program that resets all the programmable parts in the D2 and puts it back in the state where it can accept a firmware install. I suggest you do this with your Dell as your Windows 7 machine may have a problem.


There are two versions of Flash Eraser, so read the descriptions and use the one for units with video boards (like your D2).


After Flash Eraser runs, you should be able to do the firmware install. You will need to re-enter your settings as Flash Eraser clears all that stuff out.

--Bob


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37620#post_22220691
> 
> 
> From the same place you got V1.47f, download and run the Flash Eraser utility. That's a Windows program that resets all the programmable parts in the D2 and puts it back in the state where it can accept a firmware install. I suggest you do this with your Dell as your Windows 7 machine may have a problem.
> 
> There are two versions of Flash Eraser, so read the descriptions and use the one for units with video boards (like your D2).
> 
> After Flash Eraser runs, you should be able to do the firmware install. You will need to re-enter your settings as Flash Eraser clears all that stuff out.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks -- I'll try to run the Eraser. The only problem is that since there haven't been any firmware updates for the D2 in years, I no longer saved the information needed to get into "the same place you got V1.47f." Unless somebody wants to send me a private message, I'll have to contact Anthem on Monday for help.


BTW, I *was* able to successfully use the Backup app to communicate over RS-232 with my D2.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37600_100#post_22221091
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I *was* able to successfully use the Backup app to communicate over RS-232 with my D2.



I can e-mail the Flash Eraser if you PM me


----------



## drhankz


Flash Eraser v2.3 (AVM 20-HD and up).exe.zip 102k .zip file


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37600_100#post_22221091
> 
> 
> I'll have to contact Anthem on Monday for help.


*FLASH ERASER* Attached *ABOVE*


----------



## Thxtheater

Bob's already answered this further down, but to reiterate: if you can afford the D2v, the audio is reference-class. This goes especially with analog if I recall correctly. What you're saying with the oppo, the only difference is better analog DACs. The HDMI or digital out is identical between both Oppo units. I don't recall if there are better DACs or more DACs per channel with the D2v. As a critical listener, I can tell you that the 50v is simply a beautiful and wonderful piece of equipment. Add in the flexibility of ARC in terms of playing with the curve to suite to taste and I couldn't be happier.


----------



## Thxtheater

In my particular case where this has arisen with an AppleTV, the audio anomaly manifests itself on both HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 out. I have my setup simultaneously feeding a Sony LCD and Samsung Plasma TV. Anomaly arises whether or not one or both TVs are on. The anomaly in my case will almost certainly arise with the following conditions as a result of the 3.0 firmware:


1) If I turn OFF the TV for some reason, the audio will drop. It will attempt to reconnect and there will be no audio.

2) If I turn the TV back ON, the audio will not come back on. Previous to the 3.0 firmware, the HDMI signal would resync and it would be fine. Not so any longer.

3) Even if I have the audio coming from the Toslink port, the audio will drop. I'll get video fine but not audio in both cases.


I'm assuming this is a 3.0 bug as I've not seen it prior to this. If this is of interest to others as part of the 3.0 debugging, I'm happy to spend some time and document some scenarios. Otherwise, I'm deciding whether to downgrade to the previous firmware version or keep 3.0 and just live with this. I do not appear to have this issue with my other sources (Scientific Atlanta Cable box and Oppo BDP-83). I haven't tested the Roku yet for this issue.


Theo


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejn1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37620#post_22220216
> 
> 
> All,
> 
> 
> I have heard (i think) Bob P mention that the benefits of ARC will outweigh the benefits of a high quality analog pre setup so this is resonating in the back of my mind on this one.
> 
> Many thanks,
> 
> ejn1



Absolutely correct. Remember as well that the benefits of ARC or any room correction are directly proportional to the difficulty of the room. There is no question in my case that the Anthem without ARC is noticeably different than the Anthem with ARC. It's really night and day. The room is 50% of the equation in the sound reproduction chain. So spend $15,000 on a preamp in a sub-par room and you don't get what you pay for. I'm totally sold on room correction and both 2-channel and multichannel audio are my priority.


----------



## wingnut4772

In Analog Direct will my speakers just be set to 'Large or Full Range?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37620#post_22221798
> 
> 
> In Analog Direct will my speakers just be set to 'Large or Full Range?



There is no bass management or ARC in Analog Direct


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37620#post_22221924
> 
> 
> There is no bass management or ARC in Analog Direct



Ok great. That works out perfectly for my turntable.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37620#post_22222588
> 
> 
> Ok great. That works out perfectly for my turntable.



Remember that you can run separate ARC movie and music setups. You can set the music ARC for fronts only--full range. This will allow you to run fronts at full range plus the benefits of ARC.

If you do this you will need to set the Anthem to 'Analog DSP' for the source you run your turntable thru.

It will then be possible to A/B by switching from 'Analog' to 'Analog DSP' to see which you prefer.


Tom


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37620#post_22219892
> 
> 
> I don't know about the difference in audio between the 50v and the D2v. I've never listened to a 50v.
> 
> But I CAN tell you that when I switched from a D2 to a D2v I immediately noticed an improvement in audio. This was totally unexpected, as I knew the major hardware changes where in the video signal path, and I expected only evolutionary changes in the audio path that would be hard to detect.
> 
> As with the original 50, I'd be willing to bet the 50v is no slouch when it comes to audio. But I think it likely the D2v is better. Whether you will hear the improvement depends on lots of factors, including the quality of your speakers and amps, the type of content you play, and you own critical listening abilities.
> 
> My recommendation remains, if you can afford the price increase get the D2v. If not, get the 50v and be happy.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, Thxtheater - thanks for your input. Yeah, I'm surprised that you noticed an improvement in audio going from the D2 to D2v!


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37620#post_22222634
> 
> 
> Remember that you can run separate ARC movie and music setups. You can set the music ARC for fronts only--full range. This will allow you to run fronts at full range plus the benefits of ARC.
> 
> If you do this you will need to set the Anthem to 'Analog DSP' for the source you run your turntable thru.
> 
> It will then be possible to A/B by switching from 'Analog' to 'Analog DSP' to see which you prefer.
> 
> Tom


Thanks. I prefer the sound of Direct with my vinyl. I am using a Cambridge 640p phono Pre. I do like Analog DSP on other sources.


----------



## cougar75

Quote: As with the original 50, I'd be willing to bet the 50v is no slouch when it comes to audio. But I think it likely the D2v is better. Whether you will hear the improvement depends on lots of factors, including the quality of your speakers and amps, the type of content you play, and you own critical listening abilities. Bob Pariseau








Not me. But my labrador retriever sure can. He is one happy dog.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

"All the highest notes, neither sharp nor flat.


"The ear can't HEAR as high as that!


"Still, I ought to please any passing bat


"With my High Fi-Del-I-Ty!"


--Flanders & Swann, "A Song of Reproduction"


--Bob


----------



## chileboy





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37590#post_22216660
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37560#post_22213115
> 
> 
> You could try changing the "Muting" setting in the source setup. IIRC that controls how long the 50/D2 mutes the output when it detects a change in source, that might let the source "sync" better before it turns the audio back on.
> 
> 
> 
> That helped, but did not completely solve the issue - the hiss is just shorter in duration.
> 
> Something doesn't seem right - I mean, I have a Denon DVD-3910, and if I am sitting at the main menu of the DVD, simply selecting menu items causes the hiss. What I mean is, if the DVD menu shows, for instance, "Play Movie", "Settings" and "Extras" and I select "Settings", I get 1-3 seconds of hiss until the menu finishes loading. Is that normal?
> 
> Same thing happens on a Blu-ray loaded in my PS3.
Click to expand...


Anyone have any suggestions other than the Muting setting? Or is the noise I'm describing an expected (or normal) behaviour?


Sent an e-mail to Anthem also, but haven't received a response.


On an unrelated note - having used ARC to calibrate (it's an AVM50 ARC fw 1.33) , in the Speaker Calibration, should my CENTER EQ be set to "YES" or "NO" - it's currently set to NO, the default I believe. The manual says if the center speaker is immediately above the screen - mine is - it should be set to "Yes". But I'm thinking the ARC already figured all of that out. Is that correct? For some reason I never really noticed that setting before.


Thanks,


- Mark


----------



## Thxtheater

Mark,


The center EQ is something that pre-dates ARC and has been there at least from the AVM20 days to help compensate for the properties of a center channel in relation to a TV. The settings themselves are not "gospel" in the sense that if you have a 60" TV then that setting is absolutely the one to use. Anthem states that you should use your ears to determine which setting is best. Now, with ARC, I believe that this setting is largely irrelevant. That is my recollection without looking at a current manual. So in my case, I leave my center EQ to NO (or the default off position). So, I believe that your understanding is correct. Re-read the ARC setting section, which basically tells you which legacy settings are irrelevant. I think this is one of them as is the notch filter.


Theo


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Center EQ is one of the settings that is disabled when ARC is in use. It does not matter how you have it set, either during ARC Measurement, or in use for any Source with Room EQ ON.


Other settings like this include Room Resonance Filter, THX Ultra II Sub, and Boundary Gain Compensation. ARC supersedes all that stuff.


This is actually in the Manual, although it can be a bit hard to spot.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37620#post_22223770
> 
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions other than the Muting setting? Or is the noise I'm describing an expected (or normal) behaviour?



Without hearing your "hiss", I can't say for sure, but I don't notice anything like that on my 50V when switching sources.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37620#post_22223909
> 
> 
> This is actually in the Manual, although it can be a bit hard to spot.
> 
> --Bob



Ouch. I'm usually pretty good about that, did not see it. Thanks Bob & Theo.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37620#post_22224295
> 
> 
> Without hearing your "hiss", I can't say for sure, but I don't notice anything like that on my 50V when switching sources.



Well, not sure you need to actually hear it, but it's a fairly loud - jarringly so at times - hiss whenever I switch sources or move between menu items on a DVD or Blu-ray - doesn't seem to matter which source component. I guess you have silence, which is probably the norm?


I've had the issue since Day 1, just trying to sort it out now.


Thanks.


- Mark


----------



## stanger89

Might be worth contacting your dealer or Anthem, that doesn't seem right to me.


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37620#post_22220691
> 
> 
> From the same place you got V1.47f, download and run the Flash Eraser utility. That's a Windows program that resets all the programmable parts in the D2 and puts it back in the state where it can accept a firmware install. I suggest you do this with your Dell as your Windows 7 machine may have a problem.
> 
> There are two versions of Flash Eraser, so read the descriptions and use the one for units with video boards (like your D2).
> 
> After Flash Eraser runs, you should be able to do the firmware install. You will need to re-enter your settings as Flash Eraser clears all that stuff out.
> 
> --Bob



Used the Flash Eraser, Backup utility, and successfully downgraded my D2 from firmware 1.47f to 1.33 using my Mac running Windows 7. Restored all my configuration settings, and re-applied ARC.


The good news is that I can now apply various surround modes including DPL IIx to all SACDs and DVD-Audio discs playing on my Oppo BDP-93. (using LPCM from the Oppo to the D2). Firmware 1.47f wouldn't do this.


But there's a strange new behavior:


- For SACDs and DVD-Audio discs with 5.1 channel content everything works perfectly. All 7.1 speakers now work with DPL IIx applied to 6 channels of LPCM content.


- But for SACDs and DVD-Audio discs with 5.0, 4.1, or 4.0 channel content the D2 only uses the Left and Right front LPCM channels from the Oppo and then applies whichever "2 Channel" surround mode is selected, playing through 7.1 speakers. The Left Rear and Right Rear input channels are ignored by the D2!!!


This is really disappointing given that I've got multiple classical 5.0 SACDs. I also have some quadraphonic 4.0 DVD-A rock recordings where access to only the front channel content lets you hear only half the music.


Any more suggestions, or time to call Anthem?


----------



## Steve Dodds

I finally setup my full measuring system to try and tame my new room. Like many of us, I had a separate setup for Movies and Music.


Movie was as ARC recommended. Music was set to a 40Hz crossover with a 40Hz Sub Cut-off so as to (theoretically) avoid overlap.


The results are fairly obvious.


The lesson is that it isn't wise to second-guess ARC


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22225435
> 
> 
> Used the Flash Eraser, Backup utility, and successfully downgraded my D2 from firmware 1.47f to 1.33 using my Mac running Windows 7. Restored all my configuration settings, and re-applied ARC.
> 
> 
> The good news is that I can now apply various surround modes including DPL IIx to all SACDs and DVD-Audio discs playing on my Oppo BDP-93. (using LPCM from the Oppo to the D2). Firmware 1.47f wouldn't do this.
> 
> 
> But there's a strange new behavior:
> 
> 
> - For SACDs and DVD-Audio discs with 5.1 channel content everything works perfectly. All 7.1 speakers now work with DPL IIx applied to 6 channels of LPCM content.
> 
> 
> - But for SACDs and DVD-Audio discs with 5.0, 4.1, or 4.0 channel content the D2 only uses the Left and Right front LPCM channels from the Oppo and then applies whichever "2 Channel" surround mode is selected, playing through 7.1 speakers. The Left Rear and Right Rear input channels are ignored by the D2!!!
> 
> 
> This is really disappointing given that I've got multiple classical 5.0 SACDs. I also have some quadraphonic 4.0 DVD-A rock recordings where access to only the front channel content lets you hear only half the music.
> 
> 
> Any more suggestions, or time to call Anthem?



When you press Select several times on the D2 remote, what type of audio does it say it is receiving from the OPPO 93, and which channels are active for INPUT?


It should report that the input is LPCM 88.2KHz with 5.1 channels active -- even though the disc content is less than 5.1. I.e., the OPPO should be sending your 5.0 content SACD discs as 5.1 with the Subwoofer channel silent. If that's not what you are getting, check the VIDEO output resolution of the OPPO. It needs to be 720p or higher to get multi-channel, high bit-rate audio. Also make sure the OPPO is reporting that it is playing the 5.1 layer on such SACDs and not the Stereo layer.


Also, if you are using BOTH HDMI outputs of the 93, then be aware that HDMI 1 will carry a stereo down-mix of the audio. Use HDMI 2 for audio when both are wired.


While sorting this out, hook up 5.1 ANALOG audio connections from the 93 and use the 6-ch input of the D2 with ANALOG-DSP set. That will appear to the audio processing in the D2 as 5.1 input and you'll be able to do what you can do with any other 5.1 input.

--Bob


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22224717
> 
> 
> Might be worth contacting your dealer or Anthem, that doesn't seem right to me.


Did send an e-mail to Anthem a few days back, I haven't heard anything.


My dealer was 6th Ave. Electronics, so that 's out!


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22225557
> 
> 
> When you press Select several times on the D2 remote, what type of audio does it say it is receiving from the OPPO 93, and which channels are active for INPUT?
> 
> It should report that the input is LPCM 88.2KHz with 5.1 channels active -- even though the disc content is less than 5.1. I.e., the OPPO should be sending your 5.0 content SACD discs as 5.1 with the Subwoofer channel silent. If that's not what you are getting, check the VIDEO output resolution of the OPPO. It needs to be 720p or higher to get multi-channel, high bit-rate audio. Also make sure the OPPO is reporting that it is playing the 5.1 layer on such SACDs and not the Stereo layer.
> 
> Also, if you are using BOTH HDMI outputs of the 93, then be aware that HDMI 1 will carry a stereo down-mix of the audio. Use HDMI 2 for audio when both are wired.
> 
> 
> 
> While sorting this out, hook up 5.1 ANALOG audio connections from the 93 and use the 6-ch input of the D2 with ANALOG-DSP set. That will appear to the audio processing in the D2 as 5.1 input and you'll be able to do what you can do with any other 5.1 input.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the suggestions, but I've already tried everything but the old-fashioned analog audio cabling:


- The Oppo 93 reports 5.0, 4.1, or 4.0 multichannel playback for the problematic SACD or DVD-Audio discs. (I've made sure to select the multichannel rather than "stereo" content layer -- if available -- for these discs on the Oppo.)

- When cycling the SELECT button on the D2 remote, it reports that only the "L" and "R" channels are being input for 5.0, 4.1, or 4.0 discs (at whatever LPCM rate the recording was encoded at). In contrast, when playing a 5.1-channel SACD or DVD-A disc, the INPUT correctly shows "L, C, R, LFE, LS, RS"

- The Oppo is set to output everything at 1080p video resolution (also with 1080p24 enabled for movies), so it should be sending multichannel PCM audio (with 5.1-channel Blu-Rays, SACDs and DVD-A disc content correctly input by the D2).

- Only HDMI 1 out is being used by the Oppo (not configured to use both HDMI 1 and 2).


You can tell by listening to quad 4.0 or 4.1 discs that no down-mixing to stereo is occurring. Instead, the D2 is ignoring the rear channel inputs and leaving out significant musical content.


I'm quite sure ANALOG audio connections will work properly between the Oppo and D2, but I bought a D2 so I could use HDMI and shouldn't have to resort to performance-degrading digital-->analog-->digital conversions. (I'm forced to do this on my other system between an older Lexicon MC-12 with room correction and an Oppo BDP-83SE.)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I don't have a D2 I can check against, but the OPPO is supposed to go UP in channel count for those discs. That is, if the D2 says it can't accept 5.0 or 4.0 LPCM for those, then the OPPO should be sending 5.1 with silence in the unused channels.


Which firmware are you running in the OPPO 93?


Check that the OPPO has SACD Output PCM set and HDMI Audio LPCM.


If that doesn't give you an answer, call Anthem. They have OPPO players they can check against.


The Analog suggestion was just a workaround until you can get this sorted out on HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## uberanalyst




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22225998
> 
> 
> ^ I don't have a D2 I can check against, but the OPPO is supposed to go UP in channel count for those discs. That is, if the D2 says it can't accept 5.0 or 4.0 LPCM for those, then the OPPO should be sending 5.1 with silence in the unused channels.
> 
> Which firmware are you running in the OPPO 93?
> 
> Check that the OPPO has SACD Output PCM set and HDMI Audio LPCM.
> 
> If that doesn't give you an answer, call Anthem. They have OPPO players they can check against.
> 
> The Analog suggestion was just a workaround until you can get this sorted out on HDMI.
> 
> --Bob



The OPPO is running the latest official firmware 66-0413, SACD Output is set to PCM, and HDMI Audio is LPCM -- just as you suggested.


Time to call Anthem, although I won't get my hopes up for a product (the D2) they said won't have any more firmware updates. I wonder if the D2v has these same issues when inputting 4.0, 4.1, or 5.0 LPCM instead of bitstream from the Oppo BDP-93?


----------



## wingnut4772

How do I go back into ARC and make adjustments to a previous calibration? Whenever I re-open it there is nothing saved.

Thanks.


----------



## greyflag

I have had the hiss when changing sources forever on my AVM 50 ARC. I even changed out the DSP board and tried the 1.47f test firmware as well as per Anthem tech support. I just live with it.


Glenn


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22227604
> 
> 
> How do I go back into ARC and make adjustments to a previous calibration? Whenever I re-open it there is nothing saved.
> 
> Thanks.


At the end of your original Measurement pass you were asked to name a file to hold the results. Simply double-click on that file (which will launch the ARC application), or open that file using the File > Open menu item in the ARC application itself.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greyflag*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22227666
> 
> 
> I have had the hiss when changing sources forever on my AVM 50 ARC. I even changed out the DSP board and tried the 1.47f test firmware as well as per Anthem tech support. I just live with it.
> 
> 
> Glenn



It wouldn't hurt to shoot them an email with your history on this and see if they have any new information.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22227866
> 
> 
> At the end of your original Measurement pass you were asked to name a file to hold the results. Simply double-click on that file, or open it using the File > Open menu item in the ARC application itself.
> 
> --Bob



Oh. I just left it the way it was. I didn't rename it. I was afraid I was gonna mess something up.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22227871
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22227866
> 
> 
> At the end of your original Measurement pass you were asked to name a file to hold the results. Simply double-click on that file, or open it using the File > Open menu item in the ARC application itself.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh. I just left it the way it was. I didn't rename it.
Click to expand...


Well then there's a file on your hard drive with that default name and location. Probably in your Documents folder.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uberanalyst*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22226874
> 
> 
> The OPPO is running the latest official firmware 66-0413, SACD Output is set to PCM, and HDMI Audio is LPCM -- just as you suggested.
> 
> Time to call Anthem, although I won't get my hopes up for a product (the D2) they said won't have any more firmware updates. I wonder if the D2v has these same issues when inputting 4.0, 4.1, or 5.0 LPCM instead of bitstream from the Oppo BDP-93?



I just verified the 5.0 and 4.0 issue, don't think I have any 4.1 discs. The 5.0 and 4.0 are of questionable origin but the kicker is I could have sworn they used to be fine, which makes me wonder if this is an Oppo issue. I still have my Oppo BDP-83 and my old DV-970HD players. It would be a pain to hook them up but maybe if I can get time this weekend I'll check with them.


----------



## AVfile

Roger recently posted that the D2v has a problem extracting rear channels without center channel but I think that was only with PLIIx. You should still be able to hear all the native channels with processing mode set to NONE.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22227868
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greyflag*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22227666
> 
> 
> I have had the hiss when changing sources forever on my AVM 50 ARC. I even changed out the DSP board and tried the 1.47f test firmware as well as per Anthem tech support. I just live with it.
> 
> Glenn
> 
> 
> 
> It wouldn't hurt to shoot them an email with your history on this and see if they have any new information.
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...


I did so last week, haven't heard anything.


Bob, are you saying this isn't normal behavior for the AVM50 ARC?


Thanks.


- Mark


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22229106
> 
> 
> Roger recently posted that the D2v has a problem extracting rear channels without center channel but I think that was only with PLIIx. You should still be able to hear all the native channels with processing mode set to NONE.


Stefan - If you are referencing uberanalyst's issue that I duplicated it is the original D2 not the D2v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22229204
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22227868
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greyflag*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22227666
> 
> 
> I have had the hiss when changing sources forever on my AVM 50 ARC. I even changed out the DSP board and tried the 1.47f test firmware as well as per Anthem tech support. I just live with it.
> 
> Glenn
> 
> 
> 
> It wouldn't hurt to shoot them an email with your history on this and see if they have any new information.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I did so last week, haven't heard anything.
> 
> 
> Bob, are you saying this isn't normal behavior for the AVM50 ARC?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> - Mark
Click to expand...


I've never used a 50, and it's been a long time since we've had a lot of active postings on it here. My recollection is that there was a hiss problem early on, but I thought it had been fixed a long time ago.


I'm assuming what we are talking about here is not the typical sort of hiss that comes from radio frequency interference -- typically from room light dimmer switches.

--Bob


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22229532
> 
> 
> I've never used a 50, and it's been a long time since we've had a lot of active postings on it here. My recollection is that there was a hiss problem early on, but I thought it had been fixed a long time ago.
> 
> I'm assuming what we are talking about here is not the typical sort of hiss that comes from radio frequency interference -- typically from room light dimmer switches.
> 
> --Bob



No, this almost borders on static, definitely produced by the Anthem, at whatever volume it happens to be set, under the circumstances I've described. Once the unit locks onto the audio (or whatever it's trying to do while the noise is produced), if there is supposed to be silence - say, during a movie lead-in - there is dead silence.


----------



## stanger89

I thought I'd posted earlier, but I've never heard anything like that on my 50V.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22229596
> 
> 
> I thought I'd posted earlier, but I've never heard anything like that on my 50V.



I just heard back from Anthem, he thinks it might be a bad DSP board, but he's unsure they still have any.


The thing that kills me is that (as I mentioned) I got it new about 8 months ago when 6th Ave. went under. Not a demo, new in box.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37600_100#post_22229862
> 
> 
> I just heard back from Anthem, he thinks it might be a bad DSP board, but he's unsure they still have any.
> 
> The thing that kills me is that (as I mentioned) I got it new about 8 months ago when 6th Ave. went under. Not a demo, new in box.



New in the BOX only means *NOT SOLD yet*.


The D2 has been out of production for *many years.*


I would never ever buy anything from 6th Ave but that is my personal opinion


----------



## greyflag

I swapped out DSP boards as I posted earlier with very little, if any, change. The noise occurs when switching sources. It occurs also, when switching from a standard def TV channel to HD and during menu or preview changes on DVD or BluRay. I think it is a HDMI switching issue as it occurs when changing video and/or audio signals.


Glenn


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22229959
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22229862
> 
> 
> I just heard back from Anthem, he thinks it might be a bad DSP board, but he's unsure they still have any.
> 
> The thing that kills me is that (as I mentioned) I got it new about 8 months ago when 6th Ave. went under. Not a demo, new in box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New in the BOX only means *NOT SOLD yet*.
> 
> The D2 has been out of production for *many years.*
> 
> I would never ever buy anything from 6th Ave but that is my personal opinion
Click to expand...


Umm, ok, I understand that - I wasn't faulting anybody, least of all Anthem, just feeling sorry for myself. My point was that, if the DSP board is bad, it most likely came from the factory that way. From what I have seen, I know Anthem will help me however they can. If nothing can be done, so be it, that's my tough luck.


Not sure why you're sour on 6th Ave., but I bought almost all of my gear from them over the years, and never had a bad experience, in fact, developed a great relationship with one of the managers. In any case, they're out of business now, so it's a moot point.


- Mark


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greyflag*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22229963
> 
> 
> I swapped out DSP boards as I posted earlier with very little, if any, change. The noise occurs when switching sources. It occurs also, when switching from a standard def TV channel to HD and during menu or preview changes on DVD or BluRay. I think it is a HDMI switching issue as it occurs when changing video and/or audio signals.
> 
> Glenn



Yes, I saw that - but from the other posts, and now after going back-and-forth with Anthem a few times, it does sound abnormal. Maybe we coincidentally have the same hardware issue, but it isn't the DSP board?


- Mark


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37600_100#post_22230282
> 
> 
> Umm, ok, I understand that - I wasn't faulting anybody, least of all Anthem, just feeling sorry for myself. My point was that, if the DSP board is bad, it most likely came from the factory that way. From what I have seen, I know Anthem will help me however they can. If nothing can be done, so be it, that's my tough luck.



Welcome to your 1st Bad Experience - But I bet Anthem will HELP you out.


I see that in my Crystal Ball.


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greyflag*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22227666
> 
> 
> I have had the hiss when changing sources forever on my AVM 50 ARC. I even changed out the DSP board and tried the 1.47f test firmware as well as per Anthem tech support. I just live with it.
> 
> Glenn



I have the same thing on my AVM40. It hisses when there is no active source connected. When you hit play on that sopurce or switch to another active one the hiss disappears.


It's mildly annoying.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22231170
> 
> 
> I have the same thing on my AVM40. It hisses when there is no active source connected. When you hit play on that sopurce or switch to another active one the hiss disappears.
> 
> It's mildly annoying.



You're right, it's usually only annoying - it didn't bother me that much until I started streaming music, and it also does it between tracks, I guess because there's no signal for a second.


If I switch from an active source to another active source, I also have the problem. Does that not happen on yours? How about simply moving between menus on a DVD or Blue-ray (where it also occurs for me)?


- Mark


----------



## Steve Dodds

It doesn't happen when I switch from one active source to another, ie when cable TV is playing to Mac Mini playing. But it does if the source isn't active, or if I scroll up and down the inputs list.


I don't get it in-between tracks when streaming, but then again I have Gapless Playback on automatically in iTunes.


----------



## wingnut4772

Ok I saved the file as a new name but when I try to open it it says invalid file format. Also when I finish calibrating , I can't see that window that shows what crossovers etc. the ARC has chosen. How do I see that?


----------



## wingnut4772

Also I notice I'm getting some audio drop outs occasionally. What should I check for? One in CD input only dig coax. No HDMI.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232131
> 
> 
> Ok I saved the file as a new name but when I try to open it it says invalid file format. Also when I finish calibrating , I can't see that window that shows what crossovers etc. the ARC has chosen. How do I see that?



On the view that shows the results charts, there's a set of buttons up top-left (i.e., under the menus bar) for Measurement, Calculation, etc. One of those is Targets and that will bring up the Targets window with that information.


On the file format problem, evidently the version of ARC that came on your install disc is the one that got out which does not set up the file associations properly (so that double-clicking an ARC results file opens up the ARC application). Instead when you double-click on that file it is trying to open a different program which then, of course, complains that file is not in the right format for it. To fix that:


1) Go to Anthem's site and download a copy of the ARC V3.0.2 install kit. Unzip that. Inside the resulting folder you'll find the SETUP.EXE program which is the installer for ARC. But DON'T run that just yet. Just remember where it is.


2) Reboot your Windows computer.


3) In Windows Control Panel find their utility for Removing installed programs. In there, find Anthem Room Correction and Remove it.


4) Reboot your Windows computer.


5) In that downloaded ARC 3.0.2 installer folder, run the setup.exe program, i.e., run its installer.


6) Reboot your Windows computer one last time.


Now you should be able to double-click on your existing ARC results file and it will open in ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232497
> 
> 
> Also I notice I'm getting some audio drop outs occasionally. What should I check for? One in CD input only dig coax. No HDMI.



No HDMI at all? Not even to your display?


Typically brief losses of audio are due to an HDMI cabling problem. If you have HDMI to your display, check that. (A marginal HDMI signal to the display cause HDMI retries, and audio gets muted briefly while that happens.)

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232565
> 
> 
> No HDMI at all? Not even to your display?
> 
> Typically brief losses of audio are due to an HDMI cabling problem. If you have HDMI to your display, check that. (A marginal HDMI signal to the display cause HDMI retries, and audio gets muted briefly while that happens.)
> 
> --Bob


Yes. I meant no HDMI for that input. CD.

I don't use the TV at all for the CD input and all the other HDMI sources are off.

What about the invalid file for ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232629
> 
> 
> Yes. I meant no HDMI for that input. CD.
> 
> I don't use the TV at all for the CD input and all the other HDMI sources are off.
> 
> What about the invalid file for ARC?


Turn the TV on and see if you still get the dropouts. I suspect your TV, even though it is "off" is doing stuff on that HDMI input.


As for the ARC file, did you skip over my other reply above?









--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232701
> 
> 
> Turn the TV on and see if you still get the dropouts. I suspect your TV, even though it is "off" is doing stuff on that HDMI input.
> 
> As for the ARC file, did you skip over my other reply above?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



I disconnected the HDMI to the tv entirely and it still drops out.


Oh my, yes. Totally missed it. Sorry.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232769
> 
> 
> I disconnected the HDMI to the tv entirely and it still drops out. ...



OK, next step is to try a different COAX cable from the CD and make sure that it is fully inserted at both ends.


Also check the discs you are playing to see if they need cleaning. CD format is not great for error correction so you'll get skips if the player is having trouble reading the disc.


CD digital audio is only 2.0 LPCM 44.1 KHz 16-bit. I.e., it's nothing exotic. So there are limited ways problems can happen with it.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232786
> 
> 
> OK, next step is to try a different COAX cable from the CD and make sure that it is fully inserted at both ends.
> 
> Also check the discs you are playing to see if they need cleaning. CD format is not great for error correction so you'll get skips if the player is having trouble reading the disc.
> 
> CD digital audio is only 2.0 LPCM 44.1 KHz 16-bit. I.e., it's nothing exotic. So there are limited ways problems can happen with it.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. Did that. It's still doing it. I am not playing CDs. I use this for my Squeezebox input. I've never had a drop out issue in the past.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232808
> 
> 
> Thanks. Did that. It's still doing it. I am not playing CDs. I use this for my Squeezebox input. I've never had a drop out issue in the past.



I don't know anything about Squeezebox. If it offers ANALOG audio, try hooking that up and seeing if you still get the dropouts -- which would pretty much point the finger at something screwy going on in the Squeezebox.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232816
> 
> 
> I don't know anything about Squeezebox. If it offers ANALOG audio, try hooking that up and seeing if you still get the dropouts -- which would pretty much point the finger at something screwy going on in the Squeezebox.
> 
> --Bob



I have never had a issue with my Squeezebox. This has only started with th eD2v. I have it hooked up both digital and analog. Analog for zone 2 and digital for main.


----------



## wingnut4772

My computer won't open the downloaded file. It says file not found. Verify that file exists and that you can access it.



Never mind. Found it Not used to Windows.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232824
> 
> 
> I have never had a issue with my Squeezebox. This has only started with th eD2v. I have it hooked up both digital and analog. Analog for zone 2 and digital for main.


In Setup > Source Setup for the Source using the digital audio from it, confirm that you have Auto Dig OFF.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232842
> 
> 
> My computer won't open the downloaded file. It says file not found. Verify that file exists and that you can access it.


The ARC V3.0.2 file downloaded from the Anthem site is a Zip Archive. Right-click on it and select Extract All from the pop-up menu. The result will be a Folder.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232847
> 
> 
> In Setup > Source Setup for the Source using the digital audio from it, confirm that you have Auto Dig OFF.
> 
> --Bob




It's set to no. I found the extract files thing. Not used to Windows.


----------



## wingnut4772

I got my files to open. Thanks. Now to cure the drop outs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Try a different COAX input on the D2v and see if the Squeezebox works into that.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater

Can I ask a very silly question that may have no relevance? Is the digital input set to "AUTO". In other words, do you have the Anthem set to auto-sense a digital signal from (possibly) multiple inputs.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232886
> 
> 
> Can I ask a very silly question that may have no relevance? Is the digital input set to "AUTO". In other words, do you have the Anthem set to auto-sense a digital signal from (possibly) multiple inputs.



It was set to 'No'.


----------



## wingnut4772

Could it have anything to do with running the analog out to Zone 2 while simultaneously the digital to main?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232922
> 
> 
> Could it have anything to do with running the analog out to Zone 2 while simultaneously the digital to main?


It shouldn't. That's a normal thing to do. If you are have Copy Main -> Zone 2 set you don't also need the Analog input wired, but it won't hurt to have it connected.


Describe the type of dropouts you are experiencing. How frequently do they happen? How long is audio gone each time? Is there noise present while the audio is gone? Does the audio drop out at track changes or the like, or can it happen at any time during content playback? What audio format is the Squeezebox sending over that digital audio input cable?


Have you tried a different COAX input yet on the D2v?

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

It's very brief. Spilt second. No other noise occurs and it can happen any time.

Not sure what SB is putting out. Whatever it was before ....?


I'll try a different input now ....


----------



## wingnut4772

Still does it on different input.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22233080
> 
> 
> Still does it on different input.



When you press the Select button on the D2v remote while playing the Squeezebox it will tell you what the audio input format is and how many channels are active for input.


If there's not a different style of audio connection you can try from it, you'll likely have to call Anthem tech support and see if they can figure out what's up.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232808
> 
> 
> Thanks. Did that. It's still doing it. I am not playing CDs. I use this for my Squeezebox input. I've never had a drop out issue in the past.




For a test take a different digital coax source and replace the input used for the Squeezebox to the D2 with that source.

If it plays correctly without audio dropouts its something in your Squeezebox setup.


It could be a number of things if it is your Squeezebox.

It might be the internet connection, your wifi setup, your internet source provider, Mog, Rhapsody, Radioio etc.

You will have to eliminate them one by one.

If you are using the Logitech server with your Squeezebox . Check you have the latest firmware ( Logitech Media Server v7.7.2)

It is available here Logitech My Squeezebox Download .

Many things can effect the Squeezebox functioning.

Recently I had the same issue and it took rebooting every component in my network. The cable modem, router, network switches and the computer or source running the Logitech server software.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22232870
> 
> 
> I got my files to open. Thanks. Now to cure the drop outs.



I was going to say forget all that and just select "Manual or Open existing file" when you run ARC if you want to see the charts or have full control, instead of "Automatic".


Running ARC this way I've never had to hunt for files or mess around with the control panel and Windows file associations.


For the dropouts, what kind of coax cable are you using and how long is it?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22229241
> 
> 
> Stefan - If you are referencing uberanalyst's issue that I duplicated it is the original D2 not the D2v.



I know - I was referencing his question "I wonder if the D2v has these same issues when inputting 4.0, 4.1, or 5.0 LPCM instead of bitstream from the Oppo BDP-93?"


The answer is it has its own issue, although not as severe, when there is no centre channel.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22233087
> 
> 
> When you press the Select button on the D2v remote while playing the Squeezebox it will tell you what the audio input format is and how many channels are active for input.
> 
> If there's not a different style of audio connection you can try from it, you'll likely have to call Anthem tech support and see if they can figure out what's up.
> 
> --Bob



Ok. I'll check. I am trying my Oppo via HDMI to zone 2 and main with no dropouts.


----------



## wingnut4772

SB input is PCM 44.1 khz


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22233154
> 
> 
> I was going to say forget all that and just select "Manual or Open existing file" when you run ARC if you want to see the charts or have full control, instead of "Automatic".
> 
> Running ARC this way I've never had to hunt for files or mess around with the control panel and Windows file associations.
> 
> For the dropouts, what kind of coax cable are you using and how long is it?



One is a Straight Wire ( I think ) and about 3 feet. The other I'm not sure and 6 feet.


I'm trying optical now.


----------



## wingnut4772

And it's stil doing it. Sigh.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37620#post_22219887
> 
> 
> Firmware V3.00a is not even out as "test" firmware yet on the normal, password protected page. It sounds like Anthem has asked you to try it for diagnostic purposes, since there are changes being made in it that could alter the code path in the area where you are having your problem, even though there's no fix in it specific to your problem. Sounds to me like they are trying to gather additional information for the engineers -- or as you might put it, they ARE working on the problem.
> 
> Be sure Anthem knows what you found with it, and then just roll back to prior firmware.
> 
> --Bob


Thanks, Bob. I did notify Anthem. They said they're still looking into the issue. What's important to me is that they take it seriously and work to solve it in a reasonable amount of time.


----------



## wingnut4772

Ok. I think it's consistently cutting out about 3-5 seconds before SB changes to the next song. Maybe that will set off a light bulb for someone ?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22233091
> 
> 
> For a test take a different digital coax source and replace the input used for the Squeezebox to the D2 with that source.
> 
> If it plays correctly without audio dropouts its something in your Squeezebox setup.
> 
> It could be a number of things if it is your Squeezebox.
> 
> It might be the internet connection, your wifi setup, your internet source provider, Mog, Rhapsody, Radioio etc.
> 
> You will have to eliminate them one by one.
> 
> If you are using the Logitech server with your Squeezebox . Check you have the latest firmware ( Logitech Media Server v7.7.2)
> 
> It is available here Logitech My Squeezebox Download .
> 
> Many things can effect the Squeezebox functioning.
> 
> Recently I had the same issue and it took rebooting every component in my network. The cable modem, router, network switches and the computer or source running the Logitech server software.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22233576
> 
> 
> Ok. I think it's
> 
> consistently cutting out about 3-5 seconds before SB changes to the next song. Maybe that will set off a light bulb for someone ?



Missed my posting ?


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22233633
> 
> 
> Missed my posting ?



Yep.










I have the newest firmware. I'll try rebooting everything.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37680#post_22233091
> 
> 
> For a test take a different digital coax source and replace the input used for the Squeezebox to the D2 with that source.
> 
> If it plays correctly without audio dropouts its something in your Squeezebox setup.
> 
> It could be a number of things if it is your Squeezebox.
> 
> It might be the internet connection, your wifi setup, your internet source provider, Mog, Rhapsody, Radioio etc.
> 
> You will have to eliminate them one by one.
> 
> If you are using the Logitech server with your Squeezebox . Check you have the latest firmware ( Logitech Media Server v7.7.2)
> 
> It is available here Logitech My Squeezebox Download .
> 
> Many things can effect the Squeezebox functioning.
> 
> Recently I had the same issue and it took rebooting every component in my network. The cable modem, router, network switches and the computer or source running the Logitech server software.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22233751
> 
> 
> Yep.



Ok so do the first test. Change the digital source to something other than the Squeezebox.

Tell us what happens.

If it worked OK reconnect the Squeezebox and change to a different digital source to the Squeezebox,

Change your internet files or something other than what you are currently using,

Then Follow ALL The STEPS in my posting above


----------



## wingnut4772

  



Rebooting everything seems to have worked! ( so far....fingers crossed)


----------



## wingnut4772

Ok. Next question...:


I ran ARC with my subs all gain matched ( not level matched because I forgot) and it set my LFE crossover to 90. Once I realized, I level matched ( all hitting me at 75 with noise level and sub at 0) I reran ARC and it put my LFE crossover at 110. That seems a bit high to me. My mains are crossed at 60, my center at 70 , my sides at 65 and my rears at 80.

SO what's up with the 110?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22234022
> 
> 
> Ok. Next question...:
> 
> I ran ARC with my subs all gain matched ( not level matched because I forgot) and it set my LFE crossover to 90. Once I realized, I level matched ( all hitting me at 75 with noise level and sub at 0) I reran ARC and it put my LFE crossover at 110. That seems a bit high to me. My mains are crossed at 60, my center at 70 , my sides at 65 and my rears at 80.
> 
> SO what's up with the 110?



Was the crossover 110 or the cutoff? Perhaps you should post your charts and the Targets window so people will have a better idea of your situation.

John


----------



## wingnut4772

Ok. Let me figure out how do that.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22234022
> 
> 
> Ok. Next question...:
> 
> I ran ARC with my subs all gain matched ( not level matched because I forgot) and it set my LFE crossover to 90. Once I realized, I level matched ( all hitting me at 75 with noise level and sub at 0) I reran ARC and it put my LFE crossover at 110. That seems a bit high to me. My mains are crossed at 60, my center at 70 , my sides at 65 and my rears at 80.
> 
> SO what's up with the 110?



Wingnut


Read the printed information under your targets. Those are cutoffs not the crossovers. To find the crossovers you will need to go back into the D2 setup to view them.

ARC is almost always correct.

It is recommended that you do not arbitrarily change them.


If you did not set the sub levels on each sub individually then I suggest you rerun ARC



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22234455
> 
> 
> Ok. Let me figure out how do that.



Copy the charts to your computer as JPGs. If using a PC you can use PRTSC and then paste them into the Paint program.

You will need three JPGs to include the targets. The use the image button when doing your reply and find them on your computer.


----------



## Bghead8che

Hi Guys,


Looks like I can pick up a D2V for a pretty good price. I've been going back and forth between the D2V and the Onkyo 5508 or upcoming 5509.


I have several concerns regarding the D2V that perhaps you guys can address?


1. The D2V is three times as expensive as the 5508.

2. Does the D2V have any type of networking or the ability to stream music? I assume you would have to buy a dedicated music server with the D2V whereas you would not if you owned the 5508. Am I correct?

3. The D2V only EQs one sub correct? I know that Audyssey can EQ dual subs.

4. The firmware upgrade process on the D2V is a pain.

5. The interface on the D2V is old school compared to the 5508.

6. The D2V does not handle SACD natively, correct? In other words an SACD signal is converted to PCM. By converting the signal to PCM first do you not lose the advantage of the higher bit rate of SACDs defeating the point of an SACD?

7. My number once concern is the D3. I read some posts going back nearly a year talking about the D3. Is the D2V about to be replaced by the D3? I'd hate to pay this much only to fork out several thousand more for the D3? What's the scoop on the next model?


Lastly, perhaps nothing more than an academic concern, the Onkyo 5508 measure better in terms of distortion, SNR, channel seperation, etc. according to HT Magazine.


Thanks in advance for any feedback or comments.


-Brian


----------



## AVfile

Hi Brian,


1. Yes but it's made in North America, you will cherish it







The 50v is a bit cheaper and almost as good, but still above any Onkyo.

2. No networking (that's what the bluray players do now), so your assumption is correct, but keeping complex software away from Anthem is a good thing IMO.

3. It EQs your subs as a set. There were posts 1 or 2 pages back for wingnut on how to do this.

4. Not painful if you have a laptop with serial port.

5. Agreed the interface is clunky and sometimes cryptic.

6. Most SACD players with HDMI do high quality 24/96 PCM conversion and it sounds awesome.

7. There is no D3 or any replacement product on the horizon. A 3D upgrade is being released right now for the D2v and 50v.


----------



## AVfile

Wingnut those crossovers are excellent. I think the optimal range for LFE is


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22235064
> 
> 
> Wingnut those crossovers are excellent. I think the optimal range for LFE is


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bghead8che*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22234921
> 
> 
> Lastly, perhaps nothing more than an academic concern, the Onkyo 5508 measure better in terms of distortion, SNR, channel seperation, etc. according to HT Magazine.


Which issue was that in?


Interesting as the Secrets tests don't correlate:
Anthem D2v 

Onkyo 5508 


Cheers


----------



## wingnut4772

Ok . What am I looking at?


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bghead8che*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22234921
> 
> 
> 2. Does the D2V have any type of networking or the ability to stream music? I assume you would have to buy a dedicated music server with the D2V whereas you would not if you owned the 5508. Am I correct?



True, but consider that the "built in" media players generally suck compared to what you can buy separately and aren't updated nearly as quickly. If you get something like a D2V, you'll have it for 5-10 years, maybe more, that's an eternity in the media player market. Even if it came with a media player, I think you'd find yourself replacing it after 6-12 months becuase something better would come out or already be out.


> Quote:
> 5. The interface on the D2V is old school compared to the 5508.



Probably is, but I say "so what", I hardly ever use the interface on my 50V, it's all programmed into my URC remote and all I ever see is the OSD.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22235231
> 
> 
> Ok . What am I looking at?


Your charts look really good. One question. Did ARC set the cutoff for your sub to 105 or did you do it? Based on your sub's chart, I would've thought that ARC would've set your sub to 120. One other thing that you can do is set your sub to Flat. You can do this by bringing up the Target's View, click on the Advance button, change Auto to Flat, click Ok, click Calculate, Save your ARC file, and click Upload. After you upload to your D2v, make sure you save User/Installer settings. However, before you set you sub to Flat, make sure your sub has built-in Low Frequency Protection because the Flat setting cause all of the Low Frequencies to be sent to your sub which means your sub needs to have built-in protection to not try play any low frequencies beyond its' limits. The Flat setting does provide a little more oomph for the low frequencies. The Auto setting causes ARC to roll-off the low frequencies before hitting your sub's limitations.


Anyway, what you have now looks good and you should sit back and just listen to it for a week or two to see if you like what you are hearing.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22235246
> 
> 
> Your charts look really good. One question. Did ARC set the cutoff for your sub to 105 or did you do it? Based on your sub's chart, I would've thought that ARC would've set your sub to 120. One other thing that you can do is set your sub to Flat. You can do this by bringing up the Target's View, click on the Advance button, change Auto to Flat, click Ok, click Calculate, Save your ARC file, and click Upload. After you upload to your D2v, make sure you save User/Installer settings. However, before you set you sub to Flat, make sure your sub has built-in Low Frequency Protection because the Flat setting cause all of the Low Frequencies to be sent to your sub which means your sub needs to have built-in protection to not try play any low frequencies beyond its' limits. The Flat setting does provide a little more oomph for the low frequencies. The Auto setting causes ARC to roll-off the low frequencies before hitting your sub's limitations.
> 
> Anyway, what you have now looks good and you should sit back and just listen to it for a week or two to see if you like what you are hearing.



ARC set the cutoff. Hmmmm I'm worried about setting it to flat. I have 4 HSU ULS 15 s but I have already had to replace 1 amp and 1 driver which I was wondering if Audyssey boosting the low end caused.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22235253
> 
> 
> ARC set the cutoff. Hmmmm I'm worried about setting it to flat. I have 4 HSU ULS 15 s but I have already had to replace 1 amp and 1 driver which I was wondering if Audyssey boosting the low end caused.


Ok...I understand your concern, and in your case, you should leave it set to Auto.


----------



## wingnut4772

I just verified with HSU and they said their subs don't carry that protection and to leave it set to Auto.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22235981
> 
> 
> I just verified with HSU and they said their subs don't carry that protection and to leave it set to Auto.


Yep, since your sub doesn't have the low frequency protection, then Auto is the right setting for your setup. I always recommend that folks check to make sure that their sub has the built-in low frequency protection before changing the setting to Flat. Anyway, like I said earlier, what you have now looks good. So, sit back for a week or two and just listen and let your ears judge and guide you now.


Enjoy!!!!


----------



## p.las

I have now tryed to contact anthem tec support , regards the very old DTS HA MR 7.1 issue. No respond - very frustating.

Does anybody known if there are a solution on the way?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22235231
> 
> 
> Ok . What am I looking at?



Wingnut:


In addiion to the wonderful advice already given here. i would move the center speaker outward to reduce the bass hump and even out the frequency response in the lower bass regions. Some speakers have a switch in the back to support wall (close to the wall) installations as well as far away installations. I know there's a name for this phenomena but can;t think of it right now.


I would also play with the its tilt until it points directly to the mic to even out its high frequency response as well.


Use ARC's helpful quick measure for these tasks. Click on the Tools -> Quick Measure


You'd have to perform ARC again and upload the results.


- David


----------



## WiWavelength




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22235223
> 
> 
> Which issue was that in?
> 
> Interesting as the Secrets tests don't correlate:
> Anthem D2v
> Onkyo 5508
> 
> Cheers



The Secrets measurements are, unfortunately, not directly comparable. John E. Johnson, Jr. performed the D2V measurements, while Chris Heinonen did the SC5508 measurements. Something seems to be wrong or limited with Chris' instruments, as his reviews consistently depict noise floors (on a dB/Hz basis) that are elevated ~20 dB greater than they should be.


AJ


----------



## WiWavelength




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22237112
> 
> 
> I know there's a name for this phenomena but can;t think of it right now.



Boundary Compensation


AJ


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WiWavelength*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22237200
> 
> 
> Boundary Compensation
> 
> AJ
























...


----------



## dmusoke

For those 'worried' about the audio quality of the AVM50v ... this review from 10/28/2009 should put you at ease( http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/receivers/receivers-reviews/anthem-avm50v-audiovideo-processor/page-4-the-anthem-avm50v-audio-video-processor-in-use.html ):


"

.

.

.

Enough has been said about the audio output quality of the AVM series (20/30/40/50) that I don't need to reinvent the wheel here. As mentioned at the onset of the review, that portion of the product is practically unchanged since the original and continues to impress and inspire with its insanely neutral and natural quality, ridiculously low noise floor, and flawless presentation. At the end of the day, this is what really counts ...

.

.

.

"



As for its software, we presentlly still have some of the issues they had in 2009...


"

.

.

In my mind, while there will always be some HD material which is shot interlaced, or progressive material handled as interlaced, as well as material which can benefit from noise reduction and other shaping, video processing of Blu-ray is almost point moot in that we are dealing with an industry which finally matured from the mire of telecine'd material and is now into 24p from source to disc with no intermediary conversion. Here the Anthem should simply be asked to be transparent but my experience fell a little short. Specifically I found the AVM50v to be a little fussy in terms of receiving HDMI signals. On occasion a stream would play with video but no audio, or the video would be in the wrong color space. I also ran into situations where a 2.0 PCM track would be fed, the display would show "2.0 + Pro Logic II", but the Anthem would actually be in stereo mode. In addition there is a certain amount of snap, crackle, pop as you navigate around discs which can get pretty annoying after a while. Bottom line though is that while we can expect a more challenging road for companies writing their own software, at this price point we should see interoperability a least as smooth as off-the-shelf solutions. However, Anthem's track record of continuous improvement and refinement of their product and software gives faith that things will get better.

.

.

.

*Conclusions*


This, at the end of a decidedly lengthy review, is the challenging part. What can be said that has not been already? Way back at the introduction I illustrated just how mature the product line is. Anthem's AVM line of audio and video processors remains a solid, SOLID value, delivering top tier features and performance, deceptively so since although not priced cheap, are still in the mid-range when looking at the market and industry whole.


I did have to report the HDMI quirks, though I have every confidence in their being address by Anthem in the weeks or months to come.


That point notwithstanding, there are precious few pieces of consumer audio/video equipment which are as safe a bet as the Anthems. In a phrase, "Buy with confidence"



Cheers







!


- David, a D2v user!


----------



## dmusoke

Factoid i didn't know about the 50v/D2v ... All input video to be processed by the VXP processor is first converted into the RGB color space and then processed by the VXP processor and output to the color space as dictated by the Video output configuration... So for no color speace conversion, RGB is the way to go. Other color spaces go through YCrCb ->. RGB -> YCrCb to the TV.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37710#post_22237112
> 
> 
> Wingnut:
> 
> In addiion to the wonderful advice already given here. i would move the center speaker outward to reduce the bass hump and even out the frequency response in the lower bass regions. Some speakers have a switch in the back to support wall (close to the wall) installations as well as far away installations. I know there's a name for this phenomena but can;t think of it right now.
> 
> I would also play with the its tilt until it points directly to the mic to even out its high frequency response as well.
> 
> Use ARC's helpful quick measure for these tasks. Click on the Tools -> Quick Measure
> 
> You'd have to perform ARC again and upload the results.
> 
> - David



Thank you. The center channel is as away from the wall as I can get it. It's on the edge of a floating shelf. I have it angled slightly up but I can play with it some more.


----------



## cargen

I have followed this thread since page 1.


I have a D2 upgraded from a D1, which I've owned since 2004 and which has been entirely reliable for 8 +/- years.


All 4 HDMI and all 3 optical inputs are utilized as are the 6-channel audio inputs. 

But I just realized that my entire bank of analog Audio-In inputs has apparently gone dead. I don't know how long the bank has been inoperable because the only cables I had hooked up via analog Audio-In were the set-up audio cords for the occasional equalization procedure for my dual Velodyne DD-15 subwooofers, which since the addition of Anthem's ARC, I haven't utilized in a couple years.


To confirm that the entire bank of analog Audio-In inputs are in fact inoperable, I plugged a simple iPod source dual RCA cable into each set of Left-Right Audio-In inputs.


Since this unit is way out-of-warranty and the closest dealer is in another state, does anyone here have suggestions?


Could it possibly be just software? Maybe I should try a software re-install? 

I hate the thought of having to ship and wait weeks for a factory repair roundtrip.


Does any repair resource do non-warranty repair of a D2?


Thanks in advance for any help.


Chris


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cargen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37700_100#post_22240340
> 
> 
> Does any repair resource do non-warranty repair of a D2?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> 
> Chris



Try *Anthem* - There will FIX if they have the parts


----------



## thestewman

Chris


Have you checked your source setup ? If the source you select from the front panel or your remote has not been changed to use the analog input it will not work.

Go into the setup for the source you selected and double check that audio in is analog and that correct input is selected under Analog Audio


And if using Analog Direct I believe you will bypassing the analog circuits



Stew


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Chris,

Do you get audio from the AM/FM tuner? That's also Analog.


And have you tried the LF/RF pair of the 6-Channel Analog input? Are you SURE that iPOD cabling you're using is working? It could be as simple as the jack is not fully inserted into the iPOD.

--Bob


----------



## cargen

Stew and Bob,


I got it working!!!


I had been trying to custom assign TV3 Source3 Setup, wherein neither AnlgDSP nor AnlgDir would deliver the signal. I didn't think to try using a different Source Setup screen.


Bob's comment about audio from AM/FM, which I had, made me re-think to try using a different Source Setup screen.


I ended up using the CD Setup screen, which I had assigned to another source. AnlgDSP and AnlgDir worked immediately from that source!


Could it be that the "echo screens" such as TV2, TV3, TV4 and DVD2, DVD3, DVD4 are "flakier" somehow regarding only AnlgDSP and AnlgDir than the Source Setups that have no echoes such as CD, TAPE, VCR, AUX?


I was surely baffled and while neither of your responses delivered exactly, they both made me keep at it and . . . All's well that ends well!


THANKS!


Stew, been Barbados-bound lately?


My best,


Chris


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Chris,

Great! I'm glad you got it working! No trip back to Canada for it THIS time!










No there should be no difference in the overlaid Source definitions (e.g., TV 3) as regards assignment of Analog inputs, but you do have to check that you have then set at top to be distinct from the main definition, and of course you have to be careful that you've actually selected them for input -- i.e., pressed the TV source selection button just the right number of times. My guess would be you got the DEFINITION correct but you didn't actually have that TV3 (or whichever) selected as the Main path Source. In addition to simple key bounce problems, that could also happen if you accidentally had the remote set to command Zone 2 instead of the Main path when you were trying to test this.

--Bob


----------



## Bghead8che

What version of D2V includes HDMI 1.4? Did the new 3D upgarde add 1.4? Basically I am wondering how I know if I used unit has HDMI 1.4. What model do I look for?


Thanks!


-Brian


----------



## rsinclair

I’ve got a D2V that I’ve had problems with since day 1. At random (but fairly frequent) times, when I power up the unit or switch inputs, I get either a strong magenta tint over the picture, or no picture at all. My dealer tried a number of different settings and spent awhile on the phone with Anthem support when I first purchased it, but no resolution to the problem was ever found (we also tried an entirely separated d2v unit.) The only surefire fix is to reboot the Anthem. Given the overall superior A/V quality of the unit, I elected to keep it rather than switching to another brand, even though entry-level A/V processors from Best Buy don’t exhibit basic functional problems like this.


I have my D2V connected via HDMI to a Pioneer Kuro 600M, and to several sources including a Comcast HD box, an HTPC, an Xbox 360 and PS3. It seems fairly obvious that it’s an HDMI handshaking issue, and I think others in this forum have had similar issues.


In any case, my question is: would the new D2V 3D upgrade kit potentially alleviate these problems, in combination with newer firmware? To my knowledge the pricing for the upgrade kit hasn’t been announced yet, and I have no actual need for 3D since the Kuro isn’t 3D capable, but if they’ve made any improvements or corrections overall to the HDMI interfaces, I might be interested.


Thanks,

R


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsinclair*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37740#post_22246225
> 
> 
> I’ve got a D2V that I’ve had problems with since day 1. At random (but fairly frequent) times, when I power up the unit or switch inputs, I get either a strong magenta tint over the picture, or no picture at all. My dealer tried a number of different settings and spent awhile on the phone with Anthem support when I first purchased it, but no resolution to the problem was ever found (we also tried an entirely separated d2v unit.) The only surefire fix is to reboot the Anthem. Given the overall superior A/V quality of the unit, I elected to keep it rather than switching to another brand, even though entry-level A/V processors from Best Buy don’t exhibit basic functional problems like this.
> 
> I have my D2V connected via HDMI to a Pioneer Kuro 600M, and to several sources including a Comcast HD box, an HTPC, an Xbox 360 and PS3. It seems fairly obvious that it’s an HDMI handshaking issue, and I think others in this forum have had similar issues.



Check your cables, I was having handshaking issues with my 50V (which got much worse when I added the Darbee Darblet), and replacing all my cables with real, high-speed certified BJC cables solved or greatly reduced my issues.


----------



## rsinclair

@stranger89, one of the things we tried was to have Anthem actually send out known-good HDMI cables for testing that they use themselves. While they were a bit more expensive brand than the cables I was using, I experienced the same issue even with their supplied cables.


Thanks,

-R


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bghead8che*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37740#post_22246172
> 
> 
> What version of D2V includes HDMI 1.4? Did the new 3D upgarde add 1.4? Basically I am wondering how I know if I used unit has HDMI 1.4. What model do I look for?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Brian



The D2v with the 3D upgraded board has HDMI 1.4. On the unit's osd, it will say D2v 3D if the board has been installed and with the latest firmware.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ In the updated hardware ("D2v 3D") only the top 4 HDMI inputs -- inputs 1-4 -- and the top HDMI output -- Main Out -- are updated to the 1.4 spec. The lower 4 inputs (HDMI 5-8) and the lower output are still HDMI V1.3.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsinclair*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37740#post_22246225
> 
> 
> I’ve got a D2V that I’ve had problems with since day 1. At random (but fairly frequent) times, when I power up the unit or switch inputs, I get either a strong magenta tint over the picture, or no picture at all. My dealer tried a number of different settings and spent awhile on the phone with Anthem support when I first purchased it, but no resolution to the problem was ever found (we also tried an entirely separated d2v unit.) The only surefire fix is to reboot the Anthem. Given the overall superior A/V quality of the unit, I elected to keep it rather than switching to another brand, even though entry-level A/V processors from Best Buy don’t exhibit basic functional problems like this.
> 
> 
> I have my D2V connected via HDMI to a Pioneer Kuro 600M, and to several sources including a Comcast HD box, an HTPC, an Xbox 360 and PS3. It seems fairly obvious that it’s an HDMI handshaking issue, and I think others in this forum have had similar issues.
> 
> 
> In any case, my question is: would the new D2V 3D upgrade kit potentially alleviate these problems, in combination with newer firmware? To my knowledge the pricing for the upgrade kit hasn’t been announced yet, and I have no actual need for 3D since the Kuro isn’t 3D capable, but if they’ve made any improvements or corrections overall to the HDMI interfaces, I might be interested.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> R



Shocking Pink video is a symptom that the devices at both ends of the HDMI handshake have failed to agree on whether the data format for video is YCbCr or RGB. This isn't supposed to happen, but can happen if the handshake doesn't complete normally. If the disagreement goes the other way you get Ghastly Green video.


There are two usual fixes: (1) Set an explicit video data format (e.g, YCbCr 4:4:4 or Studio RGB) instead of using Auto, or (2) upgrade your HDMI cables


The consensus opinion on AVS is that the Pioneer Kuro displays are happiest receiving Studio RGB from the Anthem. So set that in Setup > Video Output.


But keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol so the problem may ACTUALLY be on the Source side. Again, look for a setting in the Source device that tells it to output a specific format instead of negotiating via Auto.

--Bob


----------



## p.las

Okay - i am sure that People's are tirred to hear about the DTS HD MR issue. BUT i am beginning to bee very frustrated . Two times i have contacted anthem tec support about this issue , the last tree weeks. No respond.

I am felling that i have no options , beside to bye a oppo bdp 93. But that can't bee right. The audio performence from this Unit is second to non. But why Can i get a answer from anthem?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37700_100#post_22248437
> 
> 
> Okay - i am sure that People's are tirred to hear about the DTS HD MR issue. BUT i am beginning to bee very frustrated . Two times i have contacted anthem tec support about this issue , the last tree weeks. No respond.
> 
> I am felling that i have no options , beside to bye a oppo bdp 93. But that can't bee right. The audio performence from this Unit is second to non. But why Can i get a answer from anthem?



What method did you USE?


e-mail [email protected]


Phone +1-905-362-0958


Form http://anthemav.com/Contact-Technical-Support


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37740#post_22248585
> 
> 
> What method did you USE?
> 
> e-mail [email protected]
> 
> Phone +1-905-362-0958
> 
> Form http://anthemav.com/Contact-Technical-Support



The one at the bottum.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37700_100#post_22248862
> 
> 
> The one at the bottum.



Many people have complained about that one.


Try the 1st one - email


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37740#post_22248883
> 
> 
> Many people have complained about that one.
> 
> Try the 1st one - email



I Will try that - thanks a lot


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37700_100#post_22248937
> 
> 
> I Will try that - thanks a lot



Of course the Phone works the BEST but I understand you are across the pond.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A heads up. It looks like Settings Backup Utility V1.03 from the ARC V3.0.2 kit may not be compatible with the D2v 3D hardware running the V3.00 firmware.


Nick conjectures the hardware/firmware combo is returning a Model ID the utility is not expecting.


This is being checked. The symptom should be that the utility can not find the D2v.


Use the User and Installer memories or pen and paper to back up your settings.


The above is not confirmed yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37740#post_22248937
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37740#post_22248883
> 
> 
> Many people have complained about that one.
> 
> Try the 1st one - email
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Will try that - thanks a lot
Click to expand...


If you use email or the web form, double check that the SPAM/JUNK filter in your email is not discarding the reply emails from Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

What does the dipole setting on the surrounds do, exactly?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37740#post_22249857
> 
> 
> What does the dipole setting on the surrounds do, exactly?



Simple. It disables the ability to set speaker distance for those, and automatically uses instead the largest distance you have set for any other speaker. The idea being that Dipoles work by reflecting sound off the adjacent walls/ceiling, so a directed-radiated distance is not appropriate.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37740#post_22249912
> 
> 
> Simple. It disables the ability to set speaker distance for those, and automatically uses instead the largest distance you have set for any other speaker. The idea being that Dipoles work by reflecting sound off the adjacent walls/ceiling, so a directed-radiated distance is not appropriate.
> 
> --Bob




Cool. Thanks.


----------



## wingnut4772

Am I nuts thinking I might like the sound of my direct, in ceilings surrounds in dipole mode? I tried it just for kicks.


----------



## boostie

Has anyone solved the popping noise through the speakers on shut down? Most concenrning as I like to use the 12 volt triggers to turn the equipment on and off.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37740#post_22250649
> 
> 
> Has anyone solved the popping noise through the speakers on shut down? Most concenrning as I like to use the 12 volt triggers to turn the equipment on and off.



You should not have any noise if you turn off the amps first.

Some amplifiers have a huge amount of capacitance storage that is slow to dissipate after shutdown.

I know the old Adcom amps I had would make noise after everything was shut down due to stored capacitance,


----------



## boostie

I understand that thank you, but if using the 12 volt trigger on the anthem the amp will always turn off after the amp. Had no issues with my Yamaha 3800.


Pointless having 12volt triggers on the anthem if you can't use them with causing issues.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37740#post_22251304
> 
> 
> I understand that thank you, but if using the 12 volt trigger on the anthem the amp will always turn off after the amp. Had no issues with my Yamaha 3800.
> 
> 
> Pointless having 12volt triggers on the anthem if you can't use them with causing issues.



"The amp will always turn off after the amp" is a typo?


Be sure you have the triggers configured correctly. You have to enable the set of triggers and you have to set the events that invoke each of the 3 triggers separately. It sounds like your amp may be responding to input audio voltage instead of to the trigger so also check the setting on the amp itself.


The Specifications in the back of the Manual state the Polarity of the Trigger voltage -- Tip positive, Sleeve ground. Make sure the cable is wired to deliver the Polarity your amp expects.


In addition, check that the mini-plug is FULLY inserted in the jack. Some of them can be a bit stubborn.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37740#post_22250570
> 
> 
> Am I nuts thinking I might like the sound of my direct, in ceilings surrounds in dipole mode? I tried it just for kicks.



Not nuts. Just listener bias. It would be no different than putting in the "wrong" distance setting for those speakers. Some installers deliberately miss-set the distance for the Surrounds to "open up the surround field". Essentially they are just decorrelating the sound between the Surrounds and the mains. The THX post processing for 7.1 speaker setups does a similar sort of trick.


But this mostly acts as a bandaid for room issues. With an ARC solution in place, my recommendation is that you leave THX post processing OFF for each audio format for each Source setup, and also use accurate distances for the Surround speakers. Which includes marking Direct firing speakers as Direct.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22251336
> 
> 
> Not nuts. Just listener bias. It would be no different than putting in the "wrong" distance setting for those speakers. Some installers deliberately miss-set the distance for the Surrounds to "open up the surround field". Essentially they are just decorrelating the sound between the Surrounds and the mains. The THX post processing for 7.1 speaker setups does a similar sort of trick.
> 
> But this mostly acts as a bandaid for room issues. With an ARC solution in place, my recommendation is that you leave THX post processing OFF for each audio format for each Source setup, and also use accurate distances for the Surround speakers. Which includes marking Direct firing speakers as Direct.
> 
> --Bob




Hmmmmm ...so what is it doing exactly? Why would a 3 foot difference matter? If the surrounds are equal to the mains on dipole they would now be at 10ft vs 7 feet. It just sounds a little less localized to me. Does that make any sense? That's an effect I like.


----------



## p.las

Okay - this is the answer i Got from anthem tech support . I am not sure Info got it right.


Good morning Peter,


This is actually a DTS Decoder issue, which technically must be fixed by the manufacturer.

However we will incorporate the solution/fix for this if and when it is released.


This issue has been brought to their attention in the past, however we are still awaiting this correction.



Andrew Cirurgiao

Technical Support


The part i don't like is...........if and when. Is he saying that there MABYE Will be a fix ? Ore there WILL be a fix


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37700_100#post_22252967
> 
> 
> Okay - this is the answer i Got from anthem tech support . I am not sure Info got it right.
> 
> Good morning Peter,
> 
> This is actually a DTS Decoder issue, which technically must be fixed by the manufacturer.
> 
> However we will incorporate the solution/fix for this if and when it is released.
> 
> This issue has been brought to their attention in the past, however we are still awaiting this correction.
> 
> Andrew Cirurgiao
> 
> Technical Support
> 
> The part i don't like is...........if and when. Is he saying that there MABYE Will be a fix ? Ore there WILL be a fix



Whoever makes the DTS decoder Chip is in control.


AT LEAST YOU GOT AN ANSWER


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22253002
> 
> 
> Whoever makes the DTS decoder Chip is in control.
> 
> AT LEAST YOU GOT AN ANSWER



A answer that simply issent god enough. I don't belive that owners off d2v and avm 50v Think that okay?

Wunder what owners of the ols versions , who have paid for the decider upgrade Think of that.


This is the next respond i Got


This really is dependent on the decoder manufacturer.

If they do not release a fix we cannot implement this.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37700_100#post_22253067
> 
> 
> 
> This is the next respond i Got
> 
> This really is dependent on the decoder manufacturer.
> 
> If they do not release a fix we cannot implement this.



It is *IMPOSSIBLE* for Anthem to change the FW in the chip.


My answer is *WHO CARES.*


That is why Blu-Ray players decode to LPCM in the player.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22253075
> 
> 
> It is *IMPOSSIBLE* for Anthem to change the FW in the chip.
> 
> My answer is *WHO CARES.*
> 
> That is why Blu-Ray players decode to LPCM in the player.



Know matter how - it is not okay that a highend processor dosent do thinks right.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22253002
> 
> 
> Whoever makes the DTS decoder Chip is in control.
> 
> AT LEAST YOU GOT AN ANSWER



Forgive me but what is the recommended work-around, then? I recall seeing somewhere to apply a 3db boost? Is that correct?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22253829
> 
> 
> Forgive me but what is the recommended work-around, then? I recall seeing somewhere to apply a 3db boost? Is that correct?



Use PCM out from the bluray player.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22253950
> 
> 
> Use PCM out from the bluray player.
> 
> John



Beta v3.03 released today.

Release notes:


v3.03 beta

 

1.  Multichannel Dolby TrueHD downmix to stereo level was low - fixed.

 

2.  Certain CD tracks were muting mid-song - fixed.

 

3.  Dolby Pro Logic IIx did not always result in sound from rear channels - fixed.


John


----------



## Texas steve


You gonna be the ginni pig?


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22256074
> 
> 
> Beta v3.03 released today.
> 
> Release notes:
> 
> v3.03 beta
> 
> 
> 
> 3.  Dolby Pro Logic IIx did not always result in sound from rear channels - fixed.
> 
> John


Wrong. It's NOT fixed. I just tried it, and it did absolutely nothing to solve the problem for me.


I have to wonder if Anthem always assumes there's a center channel, and doesn't bother to check that it should be off to duplicate my conditions.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22256359
> 
> 
> Wrong. It's NOT fixed. I just tried it, and it did absolutely nothing to solve the problem for me.
> 
> I have to wonder if Anthem always assumes there's a center channel, and doesn't bother to check that it should be off to duplicate my conditions.



Let them know it didn't work for you. That's all we can do.

John


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22256442
> 
> 
> Let them know it didn't work for you. That's all we can do.
> 
> John



If I get a chance, yes.

John


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22256442
> 
> 
> Let them know it didn't work for you. That's all we can do.
> 
> John


I sent them an email. I specifically asked if they turned off the center channel (I've a feeling I must constantly remind them of it).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Installed "test" firmware V3.03. Also re-Uploaded my existing ARC solution, as is my practice.


There's a new nasty in this one. Something is screwed up in the power up sequence. From the looks of the front panel, I suspect power up is crashing and restarting. It does end up properly powered up, it just goes through a retry getting there.


This has a significant consequence in my case, which is that the D2v does not properly buffer the initial Source Selection command sent by my Logitech remote during power up. I.e., that's getting lost due to what I suspect is the power-on retry. The upshot is that the D2v always powers up on the Source that was last in use when it powered down. I have to select the desired Source after the D2v powers up.


On old issues, the problem with DTS-HD MA 7.1 Bitstreams decoding improperly -- audio intended for the Side surrounds is also sent to the Fronts on that side -- still exists.


And an issue I've been having with S-Video input from my Velodyne DD series subwoofer also still exists.


Other than the above, this firmware passes all of my initial sanity checks.


NOTE: I've not tested the 3 items that are supposedly fixed by this firmware.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Refresh my memory Bob or anyone please, does firmware 2.14d have the DTS-HD MA 7.1 issue? I'm running this firmware as it's been the most stable for me but I haven't made the level adjustment for center and fronts. For some reason I thought it was fixed with 2.14d?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22256700
> 
> 
> Refresh my memory Bob or anyone please, does firmware 2.14d have the DTS-HD MA 7.1 issue? I'm running this firmware as it's been the most stable for me but I haven't made the level adjustment for center and fronts. For some reason I thought it was fixed with 2.14d?



The Level problem IS fixed (and is still fixed). This is a DIFFERENT problem that only affects 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks. That problem is in the firmware you are running and has not yet been fixed. Use LPCM input when playing 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks.

--Bob


----------



## boostie

Still no luck solving this issue. Set up the Yamaha 3800 next to the d2v and swapped the 12v trigger back and forth. Yamaha,no pop. d2v pop. Could this be a grounding issue with the d2v?


My s8s don't like the popping......


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22257392
> 
> 
> The Level problem IS fixed (and is still fixed). This is a DIFFERENT problem that only affects 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks. That problem is in the firmware you are running and has not yet been fixed. Use LPCM input when playing 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks.
> 
> --Bob



Does this include the 3d version also?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22257442
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22257392
> 
> 
> The Level problem IS fixed (and is still fixed). This is a DIFFERENT problem that only affects 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks. That problem is in the firmware you are running and has not yet been fixed. Use LPCM input when playing 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does this include the 3d version also?
Click to expand...


Yes. The symptom, when playing a 7.1 DTS-HD MA track as Bitstream input, is that audio intended for LS also comes out on LF, and audio intended for RS also comes out on RF. This is independent of whether you have a 5.1 or 7.1 speaker configuration. The only workaround at the moment is to use LPCM input when playing a 7.1 DTS-HD MA track.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22257421
> 
> 
> Still no luck solving this issue. Set up the Yamaha 3800 next to the d2v and swapped the 12v trigger back and forth. Yamaha,no pop. d2v pop. Could this be a grounding issue with the d2v?
> 
> 
> My s8s don't like the popping......



You mean you swapped the speaker outputs AND the trigger, or just the trigger?


Also try this simple test: With the D2v connected to the power amps, try using it with the Trigger wire DISCONNECTED and make sure the power amps don't actually turn on simply because of audio voltage on the feed cables.


Also try using a different trigger output from the D2v. They time sequence with #1 going first and #3 going last.


It's possible, but not all that likely, that this could be a problem of varying ground potential in your power outlets -- i.e,. the outlets themselves, not inside the D2v. Try temporarily powering the D2v and the power amp from the SAME outlet. If that cures the problem, then you may need to get your electrician in to reconnect the separate power outlets to use the same ground -- a relatively simple procedure done inside the circuit breaker box.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22257536
> 
> 
> Yes. The symptom, when playing a 7.1 DTS-HD MA track as Bitstream input, is that audio intended for LS also comes out on LF, and audio intended for RS also comes out on RF. This is independent of whether you have a 5.1 or 7.1 speaker configuration. The only workaround at the moment is to use LPCM input when playing a 7.1 DTS-HD MA track.
> 
> --Bob




Ok. Thanks. Hope they fix that. Pretty annoying for the $$$ spent.


----------



## gtx01

After 22 months of chasing Anthem regarding the problem where certain CD tracks always mute at the same spot I received an email last night saying that it should be fixed in v3.03. I loaded v3.03 today and played one of the 'difficult' tracks watching with bated breath as it counted down to the point the sound usually stopped, and it worked! I tried a couple of other tracks which gave the same problem and they worked too. I cannot remember every track that used to stop but I'm hopeful the problem is really fixed at last.


The last time I tried a firmware upgrade I got the pink/purple screen every time I exited the Anthem menu whilst my Sky satellite box was selected, that also seems to be fixed.


I haven't had any power-up problems with my AVM 50v like Bob reported above. I use a Logitech remote too so that would have been a problem.


Previously I reported that I could notice a distinct difference in 'dynamics' between LPCM and Bitstream, especially on the Thor blu-ray. I tested that out using v3.03 and, volume level aside, I now can't notice any difference between LPCM and Bitstream. I don't know if that just magically fixed itself or Anthem have done something but now I'll use LPCM.


Given that I've only done a couple of hours testing I can't find any problems with v3.03, so unless Anthem come up with some fix I really need (the 7.1 DTS-HD MA encoding perhaps) I think I'll leave it well alone, sit back, and enjoy my music playing all the way through.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22257563
> 
> 
> Ok. Thanks. Hope they fix that. Pretty annoying for the $$$ spent.



Se my post higher up on this side. There is some answer from anthem tech support........i am not optimistisk


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37700_100#post_22257719
> 
> 
> Se my post higher up on this side. There is some answer from anthem tech support........i am not optimistisk


*Lets Be FAIR*

It is NOT SOMETHING they have control over and might NEVER EVER

be able to FIX it - *IT IS IN THE DECODER CHIP.*


There is a Work-Around


----------



## Thxtheater

Thanks John. I couldn't find the original thread. I'm serving out bitstream from my Oppo and I'll switch it out.


----------



## Thxtheater

Hi all,


I just upgraded to full range fronts. They really are full-range and go down to 20Hz. They are great top-to-bottom and even though I've had a Revel B15 sub, the mid-bass and bass from the new speakers is amazing and very clean. Aside from re-running ARC, here's how I'd like to do my setup:


Serve music stereo with speakers running full-range
Serve movies with speakers running as full-range as possible without either:
a) Sending damaging signals as hintend at in the 50v user manual
b) Having both the sub and fronts work in tandem with deep-bass on movie tracks


I vaguely recall that I could have both the fronts and sub active in the presence of an LFE signal back in the day with my AVM20. I don't see that option with the 50v. I have a very, very large room and I'd like to get the support of both the sub and full range fronts with movies. Is there a "best practice" for this setup or is this not recommended?


I appreciate any insights.


Regards,

Theo


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22257755
> 
> *Lets Be FAIR*
> 
> It is NOT SOMETHING they have control over and might NEVER EVER
> 
> be able to FIX it - *IT IS IN THE DECODER CHIP.*
> 
> There is a Work-Around



Ok. Guess I'll just put my Oppo to PCM :-/


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22257755
> 
> *Lets Be FAIR*
> 
> It is NOT SOMETHING they have control over and might NEVER EVER
> 
> be able to FIX it - *IT IS IN THE DECODER CHIP.*
> 
> There is a Work-Around



Anthem have the responsibility to the costumer. The manufaktur off the chip have a responsibility to anthem. This is how tings work.

If you have a problem witt you car eks Ford ....the Electric vindow jam, when you are open it. The manufaktur of the Electric motor for the Windows don't know how to fix it. The workaround is to not to open the Windows . I don't Think that Will never happens .

I know that anthem can't make the fix. But then there have to make the manufaktur make it - mabye it's time for anthem to not ask nice .

I Can see that you Think that i am a pain in the a.., becurse of my demands. But i have paid a lot of money for this processor. And i Can't not accept that this issue is not to bee fix. I have the right to not accept this.

Hope you understand my english


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22257960
> 
> 
> Anthem have the responsibility to the costumer. The manufaktur off the chip have a responsibility to anthem. This is how tings work.
> 
> If you have a problem witt you car eks Ford ....the Electric vindow jam, when you are open it. The manufaktur of the Electric motor for the Windows don't know how to fix it. The workaround is to not to open the Windows . I don't Think that Will never happens .
> 
> I know that anthem can't make the fix. But then there have to make the manufaktur make it - mabye it's time for anthem to not ask nice .
> 
> I Can see that you Think that i am a pain in the a.., becurse of my demands. But i have paid a lot of money for this processor. And i Can't not accept that this issue is not to bee fix. I have the right to not accept this.
> 
> Hope you understand my english



What you are asking is not an unreasonable response to a product problem. But, in reality it may never be possible to get done. Anthem like all other electronic manufacturers purchases chips from all over the world from sources supplying a premade product. The chip manufacturer probably spent years in getting the chip and software developed. The process of fixing software bugs can take an extraordinary amount of time. The product containing the chip may be obsolete by then. The product manufacturer has no control over how the final chip performs. That is why so many companies use the same chips to overcome surprises in software issues. If you do not believe this go to some of the other forum pages and scroll through the issues being talked about. With the issue being talked about here all the companies using the chip are more than likely experiencing the same bug. In Anthem's use in this product we are much more inclined to find and experience problems like this because we are the small section of audiophile and video users who understand exactly how a unit is functioning.

There currently is no high end units that perform bug free. To my knowledge the Anthem is better than almost everyone of them in this regard and that is why I purchased a D2 and then replaced it with a D2v.. If the chip manufacturer cannot get the bug fixed, possibly Anthem can work out a software work-a -round to overcome this problem


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800_100#post_22258404
> 
> 
> What you are asking is not an unreasonable response to a product problem. But, in reality it may never be possible to get done. Anthem like all other electronic manufacturers purchases chips from all over the world from sources supplying a premade product. The chip manufacturer probably spent years in getting the chip and software developed. The process of fixing software bugs can take an extraordinary amount of time. The product containing the chip may be obsolete by then. The product manufacturer has no control over how the final chip performs. That is why so many companies use the same chips to overcome surprises in software issues. If you do not believe this go to some of the other forum pages and scroll through the issues being talked about. With the issue being talked about here all the companies using the chip are more than likely experiencing the same bug. In Anthem's use in this product we are much more inclined to find and experience problems like this because we are the small section of audiophile and video users who understand exactly how a unit is functioning.
> 
> There currently is no high end units that perform bug free. To my knowledge the Anthem is better than almost everyone of them in this regard and that is why I purchased a D2 and then replaced it with a D2v.. If the chip manufacturer cannot get the bug fixed, possibly Anthem can work out a software work-a -round to overcome this problem


*3 Cheers*
























Well Written


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22258404
> 
> 
> What you are asking is not an unreasonable response to a product problem. But, in reality it may never be possible to get done. Anthem like all other electronic manufacturers purchases chips from all over the world from sources supplying a premade product. The chip manufacturer probably spent years in getting the chip and software developed. The process of fixing software bugs can take an extraordinary amount of time. The product containing the chip may be obsolete by then. The product manufacturer has no control over how the final chip performs. That is why so many companies use the same chips to overcome surprises in software issues. If you do not believe this go to some of the other forum pages and scroll through the issues being talked about. With the issue being talked about here all the companies using the chip are more than likely
> 
> the same bug. In Anthem's use in this product we are much more inclined to find and experience problems like this because we are the small section of audiophile and video users who understand exactly how a unit is functioning.
> 
> There currently is no high end units that perform bug free. To my knowledge the Anthem is better than almost everyone of them in this regard and that is why I purchased a D2 and then replaced it with a D2v.. If the chip manufacturer cannot get the bug fixed, possibly Anthem can work out a software work-a -round to overcome this problem



I don't Think you are wrong. but i don't Think you are right eather.

i don't have any insight in how those things are working.....chip , decider and Electronics - but why issent it possible to implement a new dekoder chip? Becurse it issent a god busines .

If anthem want that issue to bee fixed , then there Will be a fix. Nothing is imposible. It is a matter of priorites..........and money.


Edit:

I have a integra processor also. There issent any decoder bugs of any kind. But my anthem is just the Best sounding processor that have being in my home cinema......and wii are talking about lexicon , primare....you name it. And maby that is why iam so frustrated . I Can not sell my anthem and bye another processor that Sound A's god A's my anthem avm 50v. So frankley - i am maried to it. So it Will be so fu..... Nice if it was working correct.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22257392
> 
> 
> The Level problem IS fixed (and is still fixed). This is a DIFFERENT problem that only affects 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks. That problem is in the firmware you are running and has not yet been fixed. Use LPCM input when playing 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


> Quote:
> Installed "test" firmware V3.03. Also re-Uploaded my existing ARC solution, as is my practice.
> 
> 
> There's a new nasty in this one. Something is screwed up in the power up sequence. From the looks of the front panel, I suspect power up is crashing and restarting



Have you mentioned your power issue to Nick/Anthem? Lets hope they can replicate it with their units.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22258589
> 
> 
> I don't Think you are wrong. but i don't Think you are right eather.
> 
> i don't have any insight in how those things are working.....chip , decider and Electronics - but why issent it possible to implement a new dekoder chip? Becurse it issent a god busines .
> 
> If anthem want that issue to bee fixed , then there Will be a fix. Nothing is imposible. It is a matter of priorites..........and money.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> I have a integra processor also. There issent any decoder bugs of any kind. But my anthem is just the Best sounding processor that have being in my home cinema......and wii are talking about lexicon , primare....you name it. And maby that is why iam so frustrated . I Can not sell my anthem and bye another processor that Sound A's god A's my anthem avm 50v. So frankley - i am maried to it. So it Will be so fu..... Nice if it was working correct.



Peter,

While I understand your frustration, there is a work around that, in my experience, solves the problem without compromise. I haven't noticed any sonic quality difference using LPCM over bitstreaming using my oppo BD83. Increasing our blood pressure over this may be counter productive

John


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22258753
> 
> 
> Peter,
> 
> While I understand your frustration, there is a work around that, in my experience, solves the problem without compromise. I haven't noticed any sonic quality difference using LPCM over bitstreaming using my oppo BD83. Increasing our blood pressure over this may be counter productive
> 
> John



You proberly right.

There are some drawbacks regards th bdp 83 decoding. But that is only in toy story 3 and jurrasic park i think. Mabye After some time i Will replaced it witt bdp 93- i like that things Being done proberly









Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22258751
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> Have you mentioned your power issue to Nick/Anthem? Lets hope they can replicate it with their units.



Yep. Along with the other stuff. Never, ever, just post problem reports here. Nick would get worried if he didn't get at least one email from me after a firmware release.










On the DTS-HD MA 7.1 decoding issue, the thing that boggles my mind is that the decoder maker was able to get that decoder certified by DTS in the first place. I mean this is not some weirdly technical mistake on the periphery of common usage. Getting audio decoded into the correct channels is kind of basic. And you know that when the problem report went to the decoder maker, the first thing that must have come back was, "We can't change anything now. The way it is, passes certification." Fortunately, there IS a workaround. It could be worse.

--Bob


----------



## boostie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22257540
> 
> 
> You mean you swapped the speaker outputs AND the trigger, or just the trigger?
> 
> Also try this simple test: With the D2v connected to the power amps, try using it with the Trigger wire DISCONNECTED and make sure the power amps don't actually turn on simply because of audio voltage on the feed cables.
> 
> Also try using a different trigger output from the D2v. They time sequence with #1 going first and #3 going last.
> 
> 
> 
> It's possible, but not all that likely, that this could be a problem of varying ground potential in your power outlets -- i.e,. the outlets themselves, not inside the D2v. Try temporarily powering the D2v and the power amp from the SAME outlet. If that cures the problem, then you may need to get your electrician in to reconnect the separate power outlets to use the same ground -- a relatively simple procedure done inside the circuit breaker box.
> 
> --Bob



I swapped out the speaker output and the trigger. I will try what you have suggested and report back.


Thanks.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22258840
> 
> 
> Yep. Along with the other stuff. Never, ever, just post problem reports here. Nick would get worried if he didn't get at least one email from me after a firmware release.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the DTS-HD MA 7.1 decoding issue, the thing that boggles my mind is that the decoder maker was able to get that decoder certified by DTS in the first place. I mean this is not some weirdly technical mistake on the periphery of common usage. Getting audio decoded into the correct channels is kind of basic. And you know that when the problem report went to the decoder maker, the first thing that must have come back was, "We can't change anything now. The way it is, passes certification." Fortunately, there IS a workaround. It could be worse.
> 
> --Bob



No problem Bob and thanks for your continued support and testing. It surprises me with this DTS issue as one would think that the same chips would be going out to other companies like for instance Denon with their flagship pre-pro. I haven't read a single problem being reported with that product and they recently had a major hardware upgrade which from reports is all good. Hope it does get resolved in some way other than the LPCM setting. I will try the latest firmware and see if I get the same issue as you have and report back.


----------



## Lefreck

I just moved the Anthem D2v from our living room to my little home theater and now have the follwing problem: The D2v doesn't recognize any HDMI-audio-signal coming from the dedicated HDMI-audio-out on my DVD iScan DUO. I've tested it with a Panasonic BD-310 and and a Toshiba XE1 HDDVD player. The firmware of the unit is 2.11 and I tried to reach the Anthem homepage to look for a newer firmware, but it seems to be down :-( Is there a new official firmware (newer than 2.11) available? I have to say that my Marantz AV8003 has no problem with recognizing the HDMI audio streams fed from the DUO...


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22258823
> 
> 
> You proberly right.
> 
> There are some drawbacks regards th bdp 83 decoding. But that is only in toy story 3 and jurrasic park i think. Mabye After some time i Will replaced it witt bdp 93- i like that things Being done proberly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



So do most of us

John


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800_100#post_22258823
> 
> 
> After some time i Will replaced it witt bdp 93- i like that things Being done proberly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



Don't waste your MONEY on Oppo.


Buy a *Sony BDP-S790* it is way better than any Oppo


----------



## boostie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22258846
> 
> 
> I swapped out the speaker output and the trigger. I will try what you have suggested and report back.
> 
> Thanks.



Ok, tried a few things still the same issue.


I disconnected the 12v trigger and with the power amp OFF and turning the D2v on and off and

I still am getting the popping noise. Looks like it is coming from the anthem via feedback through the amp.


Both units plugged into the same outlet.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22259152
> 
> 
> Don't waste your MONEY on Oppo.
> 
> Buy a *Sony BDP-S790* it is way better than any Oppo



I have a masking system on my screen. So i have to shift the subtiles away from the blackbars. That said - i have never owned a component that have so god costumer respons as oppo.There have never being a single problem witt my Unit.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've isolated the power up sequence failure in the V3.03 firmware. It has to do with sending a 3-button Source Selector command to the D2v *DURING* power up.


A 3-button sequence allows direct selection of a Source for input. For example THX-8-9 selects the TV1 Source. (See Appendix A in the Manual).


You can send such a sequence during power up and it will be buffered and executed at the right time so that the D2v powers up initially using the Source you want to use.


The new problem in the V3.03 firmware is that this no longer works. When THX-8 is sent at "the wrong time" during power up, the failure happens. No need to send the 9 as well. If you wait until the unit is fully powered up, then commands like THX-8-9 work without problem.


"The wrong time" appears to be roughly 3 seconds after the Power ON command is sent to the D2v.


When the D2v receives Power ON, its Front Panel display immediately lights up with the model announcement text. In addition you get several blue button lights on the front panel. You get Main Path in the upper left, the Source last used for input (when the D2v was previously powered down) in the lower left, and you get Main Power in the lower right.


When the THX-8 is then received at "the wrong time", the Front Panel display goes black and all but one of the blue button lights also turn off. The Main Path light in the upper left remains lit. This is something that should not be able to happen -- i.e., this is not a normal combination of lights and indicators. This is the failure.


MEANWHILE, the D2v is still trying to power up. At a certain point in the power up cycle, the D2v becomes truly live and you hear its muting relays disengaging (the mechanical click). In the failure scenario, at that instant, the Front Panel display turns back on, and the normal button lights also turn back on -- and the D2v is now properly powered up except that the Source Selector command which initiated the failure never got executed so the D2v is using the wrong Source for input (presuming that's different from whatever you last used when you last powered the D2v down).


You can now do Source Selector commands and they will work normally. I.e, once powered up, the D2v appears to function correctly.


All of the above can be made to happen even using the D2v's own remote (assuming you get the timing "wrong"), and with HDMI Sources and the Display left powered down (so it's not HDMI related).


Details on all of the above have been sent to Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6

Has anyone tested the 'no audio' HDMI issue that was introduced (for apparently early model D2Vs) in V3.0?


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22260055
> 
> 
> Has anyone tested the 'no audio' HDMI issue that was introduced (for apparently early model D2Vs) in V3.0?



I read a previous post that it did.


I've been playing lots of CDs all weekend with no issue, but I can't confirm that the specific CDs I have been playing exhibited the issue prior to 3.0.


----------



## Lefreck

Is the ANTHEM HOMEPAGE ( http://www.anthemav.com )down? Can't access since yesterday :-(


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22259152
> 
> 
> Don't waste your MONEY on Oppo.
> 
> Buy a *Sony BDP-S790* it is way better than any Oppo



That's an interesting claim Dr.

I know it is OT for a Anthem forum.

Would you be able to explain how and why this might be possible

considering both the video and audio qualities of the Oppo ?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800_100#post_22260628
> 
> 
> That's an interesting claim Dr.
> 
> I know it is OT for a Anthem forum.
> 
> Would you be able to explain how and why this might be possible
> 
> considering both the video and audio qualities of the Oppo ?


*NEXT Generation* Stuff is always BETTER.


This is the 1st 4K Blu-ray Player. For those with

the Sony 4K PJ - it is the only player to OWN.


Also for us with 2K PJs - you still get the benefits

of having a 4K Scaler chip inside.


It *STREAMS* everything versus the Oppo which does not.


You can *START HERE* and Read,.


I own it and it makes everything else OBSOLETE


----------



## AVfile

Hope the Sony drive mechanics have improved. My 770 vibrates so loud now that STREAMING is about all it's good for.


It might also be good for SACD but Anthem has not solved the 16/176k problem yet.


So I now use an ANCIENT Oppo BDP-83


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800_100#post_22260702
> 
> 
> Hope the Sony drive mechanics have improved. My 770 vibrates so loud now that STREAMING is about all it's good for.
> 
> It might also be good for SACD but Anthem has not solved the 16/176k problem yet.
> 
> So I now use an ANCIENT Oppo BDP-83


*ANCIENT* is the right word


BTW I do not run the 790 video through the Anthem --- it is a better

SCALER than Anthem


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22259337
> 
> 
> Ok, tried a few things still the same issue.
> 
> I disconnected the 12v trigger and with the power amp OFF and turning the D2v on and off and
> 
> I still am getting the popping noise. Looks like it is coming from the anthem via feedback through the amp.
> 
> Both units plugged into the same outlet.



I think the click/pop on shutdown is common to all AVM/D but most people ignore or don't notice it. The reason is the unit does not mute itself when powering down (going into Standby). The unfortunate workaround is for the user to press MUTE before Standby or powering down.


Anyone upset by this should send a request to tech support for the AVM/D firmware to implement an automatic MUTE BEFORE STANDBY sequence.


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22260653
> 
> *NEXT Generation* Stuff is always BETTER.
> 
> This is the 1st 4K Blu-ray Player. For those with
> 
> the Sony 4K PJ - it is the only player to OWN.
> 
> Also for us with 2K PJs - you still get the benefits
> 
> of having a 4K Scaler chip inside.
> 
> It *STREAMS* everything versus the Oppo which does not.
> 
> You can *START HERE* and Read,.
> 
> I own it and it makes everything else OBSOLETE



Here we go again


----------



## Texas steve


Bob, hope they get that power up sorted out as I would guess the majority of us use the source command .


----------



## boostie


Doc1.docx 131k .docx file

Doc2.docx 255k .docx file


How do these look?? First go with ARC.


----------



## SimonNo10

Installed 3.03 and decided to do a new calibration. Here are the results:

 

 

 


The only change this time is I moved the right surround about a foot closer into the room and angled it more towards the main listening position. I only changed the angle on the left surround and didn't move it.




The only difference this time is ARC set my surrounds to 115 where it normally sets them to 95. Here is my previous chart before doing the new cal. Notice the difference in the right surround:

 


I must say I watched Sherlock Homes 2 last night and the sound stage was huge and impressive, but haven't had time to test anything else. Operation of the D2v is normal and started up fine using my Logitech Harmony One turning on 3 things. So far so good. Any reason why ARC would be setting my surrounds now to 115?


Also of note is I don't get any room gain so I've added 1.2 gain and set the subs to Flat (2 Seaton Submersives).


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22261156
> 
> 
> Installed 3.03 and decided to do a new calibration. Here are the results:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only change this time is I moved the right surround about a foot closer into the room and angled it more towards the main listening position. I only changed the angle on the left surround and didn't move it.
> 
> The only difference this time is ARC set my surrounds to 115 where it normally sets them to 95. Here is my chart before doing the new cal. Notice the difference in the right surround:
> 
> 
> I must say I watched Sherlock Homes 2 last night and the sound stage was huge and impressive, but haven't had time to test anything else. Operation of the D2v is normal and started up fine using my Logitech Harmony One turning on 3 things. So far so good. Any reason why ARC would be setting my surrounds now to 115?
> 
> Also of note is I don't get any room gain so I've added 1.2 gain.



Usually 1.2 is too low and would be hard to detect. Try 2-2.5.

John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Usually 1.2 is too low and would be hard to detect. Try 2-2.5.
> 
> John



No worries here are the results after applying 2.0 gain:

 

 

 


Thoughts?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22261344
> 
> 
> No worries here are the results after applying 2.0 gain:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



If sherlock sounds good I suspect everything will. Looks good to me but others may give you advice on how to tweak further. Now listen to material you are familiar with to compare.

John


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> If sherlock sounds good I suspect everything will. Looks good to me but others may give you advice on how to tweak further. Now listen to material you are familiar with to compare.
> 
> John



Will do and thanks.


----------



## SimonNo10

Quick question to anyone that owns an Oppo BDP-95 and a D2v. I'm thinking of trying out the dual HDMI method (Oppo has 2 HDMI ports) as I've read it could provide a better PQ, but I'm not sure how to hook it up to the D2v. Can someone enlighten me please







. Is it worth trying out?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22261344
> 
> 
> No worries here are the results after applying 2.0 gain:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?


I would say listen to what you have with the 2.0 room gain and see how that sounds to you. If you feel you need a little more oomph, then you can increase the room gain to 2.5. However, if you do, then definitely keep an eye on your LF. I say that because you want to have full correction one octave below the cutoff which in your case would be down to 45 Hz. Right now, with a 2.0 room gain, your LF is about 1 or 2 db from being fully corrected with the room gain set at 2.0. So, increasing the room gain to 2.5 might be a bit much. Like I said earlier, listen to it with the 2.0 room gain, and if it's pleasing to your ears, your job is done, and you can sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22261194
> 
> 
> Usually 1.2 is too low and would be hard to detect. Try 2-2.5.
> 
> John



Is that what most use? I still have mine on the default.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22261932
> 
> 
> Quick question to anyone that owns an Oppo BDP-95 and a D2v. I'm thinking of trying out the dual HDMI method (Oppo has 2 HDMI ports) as I've read it could provide a better PQ, but I'm not sure how to hook it up to the D2v. Can someone enlighten me please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Is it worth trying out?



To try it out, wire HDMI 1 from the OPPO direct to your Display and wire HDMI 2 from the OPPO to the D2v. HDMI 1 is the socket in the middle of the OPPO's back panel. Set Video Setup > Primary Output = HDMI 1 in the OPPO. No changes are needed in D2v settings. Set your Display to listen to the input coming from the OPPO. Be sure to adjust the video levels for that input in the Display as necessary, e.g., using a calibration disc like Spears & Munsil. Keep in mind that most TVs remember such settings separately for each input.


This is the way people set this up if they have a 3D display but don't yet have the 3D "pass through" upgrade for the D2v for example.


When you are viewing other Sources, change the TV to listen to the HDMI cable coming from the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22261992
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22261194
> 
> 
> Usually 1.2 is too low and would be hard to detect. Try 2-2.5.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that what most use? I still have mine on the default.
Click to expand...


Room Gain in the range of 2-4 dB is normal. If that's what ARC is already using then no need to change it. In large rooms or rooms with lots of acoustic treatment, or if there's something unusual going on in the output of your speakers, ARC will decide the inherent Room Gain in the room is less than 2 dB. In that case, telling it to add more Room Gain can be a good thing.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800_100#post_22261932
> 
> 
> Quick question to anyone that owns an Oppo BDP-95 and a D2v. I'm thinking of trying out the dual HDMI method (Oppo has 2 HDMI ports) as I've read it could provide a better PQ, but I'm not sure how to hook it up to the D2v. Can someone enlighten me please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Is it worth trying out?



Why use something *MANY* years old unless you already own one??????????


See my Sony 790 Posts - the Scaler in the 790 is much better than Anthem

and has Dual HDMI for 3D support.


----------



## boostie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22261110
> 
> Doc1.docx 131k .docx file
> Doc2.docx 255k .docx file
> 
> How do these look?? First go with ARC.



Can someone please give some feedback on the graphs?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> I would say listen to what you have with the 2.0 room gain and see how that sounds to you. If you feel you need a little more oomph, then you can increase the room gain to 2.5. However, if you do, then definitely keep an eye on your LF. I say that because you want to have full correction one octave below the cutoff which in your case would be down to 45 Hz. Right now, with a 2.0 room gain, your LF is about 1 or 2 db from being fully corrected with the room gain set at 2.0. So, increasing the room gain to 2.5 might be a bit much. Like I said earlier, listen to it with the 2.0 room gain, and if it's pleasing to your ears, your job is done, and you can sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor



I am simply blown away by the results. I tested Thor tonight and it's the best I've heard it, it's like I'm hearing another layer from the track especially from the center channel as dialogue is so clear and the soundstage is incredible. This calibration is a keeper.


> Quote:
> Why use something MANY years old unless you already own one??????????



Yes I already own a BDP-95 and have no desire to change it at the moment.


> Quote:
> To try it out, wire HDMI 1 from the OPPO direct to your Display and wire HDMI 2 from the OPPO to the D2v.



Thanks Bob. So do I still use HDMI input 1 (Main video input) on the D2v that I'm currently using direct from my projector now, from the Oppo's HDMI 2?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22262045
> 
> 
> Can someone please give some feedback on the graphs?


You should repost your charts because the graph for your RF is messed up. It looks like you may have mistakenly adjusted the graph some how. Anyway, if your RF looks like your LF then overall, your graphs are good. I would, however, suggest that you play around with different sub locations. You have some dips that hopefully can be corrected by trying different sub locations. One thing with the sub, moving it a matter of inches can make a big difference. Right now, ARC has set your sub's cutoff to 80 Hz. The goal is for ARC to set your sub's cutoff to 120 Hz. A 120 Hz setting will ensure that you will not miss out on any of bass frequencies. You can use Quick Measure to see the results of moving the sub around to different locations. Once you find a spot that gives you better results, you will have to rerun ARC again to calculate a new measurement. Also, you should change the setting for your sub from Flat to Auto because your sub is beginning to drop off around 25 Hz. You should only set your sub to Flat if your sub has built-in low frequency protection, and it plays with good volume down to 20 Hz and below. The Flat setting causes ARC to send all the low frequencies to the sub which means that your sub needs to be able to protect itself from playing the low frequencies that are beyond its' capabilities. If it can't, then you could damage your sub by setting it to Flat. The Auto setting causes ARC to roll off the low frequencies to ensure your sub doesn't play frequencies that are beyond its' capabilities.


If you go to the Anthem MRX Receivers Forum and go to the FAQ and scroll down to Jayray sub's chart, that's what you should try to make your sub's graph look like or come close to.


I hope this was helpful.


----------



## Thxtheater

For the color haze/overlay issue you need to specify an HDMI color output. Using "auto" causes this. Reference a post I did on this issue several weeks ago in this thread. I found using the RGB high setting to be best in my setup. This is an AppleTV and Anthem issue. It's only creeped up with the Anthem in the mix. I had an Oppo HDMI switcher and cheap Monoprice HDMI Matrix switcher without issues. Regardless, specifying the color output fixes the issue. Try that and see if it fixes it for you.


Theo


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22256442
> 
> 
> Let them know it didn't work for you. That's all we can do.
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37770#post_22256359
> 
> 
> Wrong. It's NOT fixed. I just tried it, and it did absolutely nothing to solve the problem for me.
> 
> I have to wonder if Anthem always assumes there's a center channel, and doesn't bother to check that it should be off to duplicate my conditions.



I heard back from Anthem today, and they verified the center channel is off. So they're getting sound from the rears and I'm not. How can that be???


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22260520
> 
> 
> I installed 3.03 on my 50v and so far the no HDMI audio issue on HDMI ports 234678 problem persists, so for me, it has not been fixed. I did make a hardware addition; namely an apple TV (1080p black model) which is hooked up to HDMI 1. This has created a workaround, a HDMI handshake enabler if you will, allowing all the other ports to function normally. It behaves like an HDCP issue. Once the 50V has established a proper HDMI handshake with a device on port 1 or 5, it okays all other ports to receive audio. You get to the point where you just get tired of fiddling. Anyways, there is something new that has been introduced, something I have not seen before and that is sometimes a pink haze using the apple TV. If I go into the 50v's setup menu and then back out of it while using the Apple TV as source, this can happen but does not always happen. Turning the Apple TV off and on again seems to resolve the issue. Also, I believe that my HDMI 2 out is shot. The output is much lighter, almost hazy, the colours are posterized or solarized and the edges are filled with lines. It just doesn't look right, like an 8 bit computer screen. How this happened I do not know as I have never used that port before I tried it a couple of weeks ago and discovered it was faulty. Whether this is the cause of my no audio problem with firmwares 2.14 and above, I do not know. Whether this indicates that there is a failure on some level on the main mezzanine processing board I do not know. I do know that HDMI 2 is on the main board. Perhaps I should take it in to repair before the warranty expires just to have it checked out thoroughly. In any case, the 3.03 offers quick switching and better menu in/out response.



Here is the post with my suggested steps to remedy the AppleTV situation. I'm using a 50v and this solved it:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37320#post_22137510


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22260520
> 
> 
> I installed 3.03 on my 50v and so far the no HDMI audio issue on HDMI ports 234678 problem persists, so for me, it has not been fixed. I did make a hardware addition; namely an apple TV (1080p black model) which is hooked up to HDMI 1. This has created a workaround, a HDMI handshake enabler if you will, allowing all the other ports to function normally. It behaves like an HDCP issue. Once the 50V has established a proper HDMI handshake with a device on port 1 or 5, it okays all other ports to receive audio. You get to the point where you just get tired of fiddling. Anyways, there is something new that has been introduced, something I have not seen before and that is sometimes a pink haze using the apple TV. If I go into the 50v's setup menu and then back out of it while using the Apple TV as source, this can happen but does not always happen. Turning the Apple TV off and on again seems to resolve the issue. Also, I believe that my HDMI 2 out is shot. The output is much lighter, almost hazy, the colours are posterized or solarized and the edges are filled with lines. It just doesn't look right, like an 8 bit computer screen. How this happened I do not know as I have never used that port before I tried it a couple of weeks ago and discovered it was faulty. Whether this is the cause of my no audio problem with firmwares 2.14 and above, I do not know. Whether this indicates that there is a failure on some level on the main mezzanine processing board I do not know. I do know that HDMI 2 is on the main board. Perhaps I should take it in to repair before the warranty expires just to have it checked out thoroughly. In any case, the 3.03 offers quick switching and better menu in/out response.



I just got an email from support to say that V3.03 fixed the issue. Will try it later today and find out.


----------



## RobertR

I'd like to ask anyone with a 50v to set his center to no, and try extracting a DTS MA or PCM 5.1 source to the rears using DPLIIX and software version 3.03. Anthem says 3.03 fixed the problem.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22262777
> 
> 
> I just got an email from support to say that V3.03 fixed the issue. Will try it later today and find out.



It didn't work. Still have the HDMI/audio issue in V3.03


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22263060
> 
> 
> It didn't work. Still have the HDMI/audio issue in V3.03


It's really annoying for Anthem to say "we fixed the problem", when actual users report otherwise.


----------



## RobertR

Anthem just sent me version 3.04. I was initially excited, because I heard sound coming from the rears. But then, the bad news: 3.04 says "ok, you set center to none, so you must REALLY mean I shouldn't bother with center channel information, so I'm going to kill ALL center channel sound". So now I have no dialogue, nothing. Sigh. Double sigh.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22263579
> 
> 
> Anthem just sent me version 3.04. I was initially excited, because I heard sound coming from the rears. But then, the bad news: 3.04 says "ok, you set center to none, so you must REALLY mean I shouldn't bother with center channel information, so I'm going to kill ALL center channel sound". So now I have no dialogue, nothing. Sigh. Double sigh.



Welcome to the exciting world of "test" firmware!










Grab a refreshing beverage, and take heart that they are actually working the issue, and it sounds like they are closing in on a real solution.

--Bob


----------



## boostie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22262207
> 
> 
> You should repost your charts because the graph for your RF is messed up. It looks like you may have mistakenly adjusted the graph some how. Anyway, if your RF looks like your LF then overall, your graphs are good. I would, however, suggest that you play around with different sub locations. You have some dips that hopefully can be corrected by trying different sub locations. One thing with the sub, moving it a matter of inches can make a big difference. Right now, ARC has set your sub's cutoff to 80 Hz. The goal is for ARC to set your sub's cutoff to 120 Hz. A 120 Hz setting will ensure that you will not miss out on any of bass frequencies. You can use Quick Measure to see the results of moving the sub around to different locations. Once you find a spot that gives you better results, you will have to rerun ARC again to calculate a new measurement. Also, you should change the setting for your sub from Flat to Auto because your sub is beginning to drop off around 25 Hz. You should only set your sub to Flat if your sub has built-in low frequency protection, and it plays with good volume down to 20 Hz and below. The Flat setting causes ARC to send all the low frequencies to the sub which means that your sub needs to be able to protect itself from playing the low frequencies that are beyond its' capabilities. If it can't, then you could damage your sub by setting it to Flat. The Auto setting causes ARC to roll off the low frequencies to ensure your sub doesn't play frequencies that are beyond its' capabilities.
> 
> If you go to the Anthem MRX Receivers Forum and go to the FAQ and scroll down to Jayray sub's chart, that's what you should try to make your sub's graph look like or come close to.
> 
> I hope this was helpful.



Thankyou very much. I will have a play and see how I go. I am running two Svs pb 13 ultras which I believe have subsonic filters which should protect it. They are set at 15hz. Both subs are in the back two corners of my room.


Yes I stuffed up the graph on the right channel,it is the same as the front left.


----------



## boostie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22263733
> 
> 
> Thankyou very much. I will have a play and see how I go. I am running two Svs pb 13 ultras which I believe have subsonic filters which should protect it. They are set at 15hz. Both subs are in the back two corners of my room.
> 
> Yes I stuffed up the graph on the right channel,it is the same as the front left.



 

 

 




Uploaded charts again.


----------



## dmusoke

Help!!!


I have my D2v with the standard ears on its sides. I have now bought a rack and got the rack ears for it as well and was planning to swap out the rack ears. I took of the cover of the D2v and found the screws for the rack ears deeply buried and hard to access w/o strippind down the whole D2v unit from its metal cage, it seems. Anyone know of a simpler way to remove the standard ears from the D2v and replace with the rack mount kits?



Thx,

David


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/10320#post_12522588
> 
> 
> 
> There are some HIDDEN front panel screws on the
> 
> 
> inside of the chassis. Still no big Deal - I not only
> 
> 
> did my own I even made my own [GRIN] - it was
> 
> 
> faster.



Drhankz:


I pulled a post you wrote on this topic 5 years ago. How did you manage to remove the curved ears easily? I see no simple way to access the screws to do so? I agree i am a green thumb in most things mechanical, but this seems like quite a job to do ...


- David


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800_100#post_22264099
> 
> 
> Drhankz:
> 
> I pulled a post you wrote on this topic 5 years ago. How did you manage to remove the curved ears easily? I see no simple way to access the screws to do so? I agree i am a green thumb in most things mechanical, but this seems like quite a job to do ...
> 
> - David



It is Soooooooooo Long Ago I have no memory of it NOW.


Where there pictures with my post - i remember taking some.


I did FIND the Pictures but they do not show the *HIDDEN SCREWS*


Hank


----------



## dmusoke









.... I understand.


I've finally managed to pull the entire front face off the D2v to access the hidden screws but what a pain-and-not-an-obvious-thing-to-do for some of us...


- David


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800_100#post_22264151
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... I understand.
> 
> I've finally managed to pull the entire front face off the D2v to access the hidden screws but what a pain-and-not-an-obvious-thing-to-do for some of us...
> 
> - David



YES YES YES - I remember that now that you mentioned it.


I sent you a PM


----------



## boostie

how does the sub look now?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22264990
> 
> 
> how does the sub look now?


Yes, that's better, and ARC has set your sub's cutoff to 120 Hz. I say now sit back and listen to your setup for about a week or two and let your ears be your judge and guide now. Good work. Congrats!!!!!!!


----------



## boostie

Is anyone running a Svs as-eq1 with the d2v? I have one that I used prior to the d2 and was wondering if it's worth using or not?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22265025
> 
> 
> Is anyone running a Svs as-eq1 with the d2v? I have one that I used prior to the d2 and was wondering if it's worth using or not?



There's no point in adding extra processing if ARC is already producing a clean solution. But if you do decide to use it, set that up FIRST, and THEN run your ARC setup, so that ARC hears the modified output of your subwoofers. You can't do it the other way around because the SVS stuff can't alter what ARC has done with the OTHER speakers to blend in their bass transition to the subs.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22265025
> 
> 
> Is anyone running a Svs as-eq1 with the d2v? I have one that I used prior to the d2 and was wondering if it's worth using or not?



Bob is right about needing to run the eq1 program first.

Its worth is dependant on how much it is needed-- that is, how bad does your ARC sub graph look without as-eq1.

I found it to be useful in my system-- I use 2 sb13-plus subs in my system.

Many here run the PBK program on their Paradigm subs before ARC with good results.


If your sub graph looks bad (or if you think there is room for improvement) first do the _other things_:

-Use the Quick Measure feature in the ARC program and move your sub(s) to get the optimal sub placement.

- Make sure, if you are using multiple subs, that they are in phase with each other.

-Once thats done, make sure the sub(s) is in phase with your other speakers.

- Then run ARC.


If you have questions the people here are good help, but don't hesitate to use the people at SVS. I have found their customer and tech service to be second to none. And that inludes Anthem and Oppo.



Tom


If you find that you don't need the as-eq1 you can always sell it and buy another toy for your system


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22265025
> 
> 
> Is anyone running a Svs as-eq1 with the d2v? I have one that I used prior to the d2 and was wondering if it's worth using or not?



I am using it witt a better result that only ARC . I know that a user more also used this svs boks witt great result.

Just go for it


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22265466
> 
> 
> I am using it witt a better result that only ARC . I know that a user more also used this svs boks witt great result.
> 
> Just go for it



A's Bob said. Run svs first. Then plot det messured subdistance in to your anthem. The distance Will be greather than the physic distance, becurse of the delay svs is aplying. And then run ARC as normal


----------



## Kris Deering

I am running the AS-EQ with my D2V. I have three subs in my room (2 JL F-113s and a SVS PB12/2 Plus) so I use the SVS first to do some minor EQ'ing and to do phase alignment than I run ARC. The two JLs are run as a single sub and are equidistant to the main listening position in the front corners. ARC doesn't do phase for subs so using the SVS allows for proper phasing with the mains and each other. My sub response is already pretty flat in the room without EQ'ing with my treatments and positioning, so very little EQ'ing is being done.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22263681
> 
> 
> Welcome to the exciting world of "test" firmware!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a refreshing beverage, and take heart that they are actually working the issue, and it sounds like they are closing in on a real solution.
> 
> --Bob










Anthem sent me 3.04a this morning. I'm going to try it tonight.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22265025
> 
> 
> Is anyone running a Svs as-eq1 with the d2v? I have one that I used prior to the d2 and was wondering if it's worth using or not?



I do run it on my 2 subs before ARC and works great. I need it to level and phase align both subs and once done, I then apply ARC for the finally touches. doing it this way, ARC doesnlt have to do much processing for the sub(s) as that's already been done by the AS-EQ1. This leaves ARC with more processing power to apply to the higher ends of the frequency spectrum.


Should you decide to sell this unit (dont know why u would want to), it will sell fast as there's no other standalone box that will level and phase align your subs, a critical function indeed.


- David


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22266003
> 
> 
> I do run it on my 2 subs before ARC and works great. I need it to level and phase align both subs and once done, I then apply ARC for the finally touches. doing it this way, ARC doesnlt have to do much processing for the sub(s) as that's already been done by the AS-EQ1. This leaves ARC with more processing power to apply to the higher ends of the frequency spectrum.
> 
> Should you decide to sell this unit (dont know why u would want to), it will sell fast as there's no other standalone box that will level and phase align your subs, a critical function indeed.
> 
> - David



The sub resources don't get allocated to the other speakers if they're not used. So if you don't use it you could lose it

John


----------



## boostie

My sub graphs are on post 37858, do you think it is worth playing with the SVS AS-EQ1 or is there little to gain.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22267134
> 
> 
> My sub graphs are on post 37858, do you think it is worth playing with the SVS AS-EQ1 or is there little to gain.



It looks excellent now so I don't think it willl improve much with it.

John


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22265771
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anthem sent me 3.04a this morning. I'm going to try it tonight.


I'm pleased to report that the problem has been almost completely resolved. I tested a 5.1 DTS MA disc and a 5.1 PCM disc, and I got sound out of the rears along with full center sound. The ONLY remaining quirk is that I have to set the Oppo to bitstream to get the rear channels, but I don't think that's going to be a big deal. Kudos to Anthem for working on the problem, rare though it might be.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22267502
> 
> 
> I'm pleased to report that the problem has been almost completely resolved. I tested a 5.1 DTS MA disc and a 5.1 PCM disc, and I got sound out of the rears along with full center sound. The ONLY remaining quirk is that I have to set the Oppo to bitstream to get the rear channels, but I don't think that's going to be a big deal. Kudos to Anthem for working on the problem, rare though it might be.



Good to hear.

John


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22267693
> 
> 
> Good to hear.
> 
> John


3.04a did turn out to have a problem with HDMI output from my HTPC, but Anthem responded quickly with 3.04b, which seems to have no issues, and looks like a keeper.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22269339
> 
> 
> 3.04a did turn out to have a problem with HDMI output from my HTPC, but Anthem responded quickly with 3.04b, which seems to have no issues, and looks like a keeper.



Even better to hear

John


----------



## p.las

Bob : are you familier witt at decoder bug in oppo bdp 83 when playing transformers 2? The surround speakers in the start is much weeker than when anthem decodes - and it is also easy to feel that the bass also missing something in impackt. Offcurse i komensate for the lower volume , when it is pcm.

This is something i that i not have notist in otter movies .


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22263196
> 
> 
> It's really annoying for Anthem to say "we fixed the problem", when actual users report otherwise.



True, annoying, but it's beta FW......but ask yourself how many component manufacturers you know that will directly work with you, respond to your emails, and send you FW updates for you to try. All within days of your issue. Not sure there are (m)any others.


I got V3.04b sent to me today and my HDMI/Audio issue is solved.


Big Thumbs Up to Anthem!


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22269899
> 
> 
> True, annoying, but it's beta FW......but ask yourself how many component manufacturers you know that will directly work with you, respond to your emails, and send you FW updates for you to try. All within days of your issue. Not sure there are (m)any others.
> 
> I got V3.04b sent to me today and my HDMI/Audio issue is solved.
> 
> Big Thumbs Up to Anthem!


Yes, I congratulate Anthem on being so responsive (venting my frustration notwithstanding). And you're right, working that closely with a customer is rare.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22262009
> 
> 
> To try it out, wire HDMI 1 from the OPPO direct to your Display and wire HDMI 2 from the OPPO to the D2v. HDMI 1 is the socket in the middle of the OPPO's back panel. Set Video Setup > Primary Output = HDMI 1 in the OPPO. No changes are needed in D2v settings. Set your Display to listen to the input coming from the OPPO. Be sure to adjust the video levels for that input in the Display as necessary, e.g., using a calibration disc like Spears & Munsil. Keep in mind that most TVs remember such settings separately for each input.
> 
> This is the way people set this up if they have a 3D display but don't yet have the 3D "pass through" upgrade for the D2v for example.
> 
> When you are viewing other Sources, change the TV to listen to the HDMI cable coming from the D2v.
> 
> --Bob



Sorry Bob you missed my question regarding this hook up. From the Oppo HDMI 2 does that then go into one one the Audio HDMI inputs on the D2v? By following this method using both HDMI's from the Oppo, how will I get up the display menu of the D2v on the screen from the projector if I'm not using the HDMI 1 (output) on the D2v. Currently that output is connected to the Projector.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22270899
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37830#post_22262009
> 
> 
> To try it out, wire HDMI 1 from the OPPO direct to your Display and wire HDMI 2 from the OPPO to the D2v. HDMI 1 is the socket in the middle of the OPPO's back panel. Set Video Setup > Primary Output = HDMI 1 in the OPPO. No changes are needed in D2v settings. Set your Display to listen to the input coming from the OPPO. Be sure to adjust the video levels for that input in the Display as necessary, e.g., using a calibration disc like Spears & Munsil. Keep in mind that most TVs remember such settings separately for each input.
> 
> This is the way people set this up if they have a 3D display but don't yet have the 3D "pass through" upgrade for the D2v for example.
> 
> When you are viewing other Sources, change the TV to listen to the HDMI cable coming from the D2v.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Bob you missed my question regarding this hook up. From the Oppo HDMI 2 does that then go into one one the Audio HDMI inputs on the D2v? By following this method using both HDMI's from the Oppo, how will I get up the display menu of the D2v on the screen from the projector if I'm not using the HDMI 1 (output) on the D2v. Currently that output is connected to the Projector.
Click to expand...


Yes with dual cabling from the OPPO, HDMI 2 from the OPPO goes to an HDMI input on the D2v. The Display is set to view HDMI 1 direct from the OPPO. Wired this way you CAN'T view the on-screen graphics generated by the D2v since the display is not seeing any video from the D2v. This of course is one reason why it is preferable to run video THROUGH the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## KCWolfPck

If anyone is looking for a 9/10 condition AVM-50 with ARC....I am selling mine and it's priced to sell fast.


http://www.avsforum.com/t/1422439/anthem-avm-50-with-anthem-room-correction-arc-and-dual-dsp-upgrade 



It's hard to say goodbye to this baby, but it's time to move on for me. I'm just hoping it's new owner enjoys it as much as I did.


PM with any questions.


Scott


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22270113
> 
> 
> Yes, I congratulate Anthem on being so responsive (venting my frustration notwithstanding). And you're right, working that closely with a customer is rare.



Ditto. Anthem's stellar support (in addition to the obvious product quality) is a reason why I've been a fan and user since the AVM/20. The entire Anthem support team gets highest marks.


Theo


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22271853
> 
> 
> Ditto. Anthem's stellar support (in addition to the obvious product quality) is a reason why I've been a fan and user since the AVM/20. The entire Anthem support team gets highest marks.
> 
> Theo



I agree, my amp blew in my Sub 2 and I had a replacement within a week. Now hopefully they can focus on my Hdmi issues on my D2v.


----------



## dweltman

So I am getting video but no soud when I have my daughter's XBox hooked up to the D2V. Any suggestions?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22273160
> 
> 
> So I am getting video but no soud when I have my daughter's XBox hooked up to the D2V. Any suggestions?



Not to be a smart ass but do you have the source audio set to Hdmi? What have you tried so far?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22273160
> 
> 
> So I am getting video but no soud when I have my daughter's XBox hooked up to the D2V. Any suggestions?



Yea, your daughter's Xbox









John


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22273476
> 
> 
> Not to be a smart ass but do you have the source audio set to Hdmi? What have you tried so far?



Well I am probably not the guy that should be trying to help you, I have my Xbox hooked up with optical for 3D and switched to HDMI to confirm settings for you and I could not get any sound either. I had the source set to HDMI and rebooted the Xbox and then the D2v and still nothing. Oh and when I went into the D2v's settings I got the all purple screen that I had to switch inputs to get rid of, nice. If you still can't get audio there is a cable you can buy or maybe it came with your Xbox that enables you to use optical, like apparently I have to now.


----------



## fuzzybk

Need some help guys. I am thinking of purchasing an Oppo 95 for SACD through the multi channel analog inputs on my AVM 50v. If I set the Oppo to output SACD as DSD to Analog direct, would this be the best choice for the AVM 50v? Or would setting SACD DSD-PCM analog conversion be the better choice? Another option is using HDMI. Will the the AVM 50v accept SACD DSD output via HDMI? What option will sound the best?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22273892
> 
> 
> Need some help guys. I am thinking of purchasing an Oppo 95 for SACD through the multi channel analog inputs on my AVM 50v. If I set the Oppo to output SACD as DSD to Analog direct, would this be the best choice for the AVM 50v? Or would setting SACD DSD-PCM analog conversion be the better choice? Another option is using HDMI. Will the the AVM 50v accept SACD DSD output via HDMI? What option will sound the best?



The Anthem cannot handle DSD output which would be over HDMI. You will have to set the OPPO to PCM to use HDMI.

But the alternative for multi channel is even better and you would use the OPPO Multi channel analog outputs.

The only reason to buy a OPPO 95 is because it has an TWO audiophile Sabre SS 9018 audio chips in it's DAC and its analog output is very very good.


----------



## N2AUDIO

I know that this thread is for owners of Anthem AVM 50, but I have a question that hopefully current owners of Anthem AVM 20 (and possibly AVM 50 owners) can help me with. I recently sent my AVM 20 in for repair to Anthem to fix a problem related to an upgrade I tried to perform, which they fixed fine. The problem is that I accidentally shipped my power cord in with my processor (thinking that they'd need it) and when Anthem shipped my processor back....you guessed it, no power cord. I notified Anthem of this situation and they promptly shipped another power cord out to me. However, the power cord that Anthem shipped out to me doesn't seem to be as, how shall I say, "robust" as the one I remember shipping to Anthem (I only owned the AVM 20 about two weeks before I shipped it to Anthem for repairs). I could have sworn that the power cord I sent them was a either a 12 or 14-gauge, three-prong-type power cord rather than a two-prong polarized plug type, but I could be mistaken.


My question to Anthem owners is what kind of power cord came with your Anthem processor....was it a 12 or 14-gauge, two-prong polarized-type plug or was it a 12 or 14-gauge, three-prong-type plug?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22273892
> 
> 
> Need some help guys. I am thinking of purchasing an Oppo 95 for SACD through the multi channel analog inputs on my AVM 50v. If I set the Oppo to output SACD as DSD to Analog direct, would this be the best choice for the AVM 50v? Or would setting SACD DSD-PCM analog conversion be the better choice? Another option is using HDMI. Will the the AVM 50v accept SACD DSD output via HDMI? What option will sound the best?



By going direct you give up ARC. So would a DAC make more diff than ARC, you'll have to decide based on your room and how much correction was needed. You can set it to Analog DSP and ARC will be engaged.

John


----------



## AVfile

Fuzzybk,

Any player that converts DSD to 24/96k PCM will work great with the 50v. I use an Oppo 83 but the 93 is the current model. Use HDMI so the 95 is not necessary.


Just don't get a Sony because the 50v doesn't like 16/176k.


If you do end up using analog there will have to be PCM conversion somewhere along the way to perform time alignment and bass management!


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N2AUDIO*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22274024
> 
> 
> My question to Anthem owners is what kind of power cord came with your Anthem processor....was it a 12 or 14-gauge, two-prong polarized-type plug or was it a 12 or 14-gauge, three-prong-type plug?



I'm pretty sure my 20 and my 50V's power cords are non-grounded.


----------



## Lefreck




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22269899
> 
> 
> True, annoying, but it's beta FW......but ask yourself how many component manufacturers you know that will directly work with you, respond to your emails, and send you FW updates for you to try. All within days of your issue. Not sure there are (m)any others.
> 
> I got V3.04b sent to me today and my HDMI/Audio issue is solved.
> 
> Big Thumbs Up to Anthem!



Happy you... hope I will get access to beta firmware for my D2v soon, too, because at the moment the HDMI-issues rellay su.... so much I'm considering reselling the unit :-( But what is the latest OFFICIAL firmware for the D2v? It just can't be the 2.10 downloadable on the Anthem site...


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22273476
> 
> 
> Not to be a smart ass but do you have the source audio set to Hdmi? What have you tried so far?



Yes I did go through the XBox settings menu and it is set for HDMI, as I said I am getting video signal to my projector, just no sound.


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22273490
> 
> 
> Yea, your daughter's Xbox
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Really! Her Christmas present. Honest.


----------



## dweltman

Has anyone successfully ordered/received the 3D upgrade yet (especially folks with older D2V's).


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22274514
> 
> 
> Yes I did go through the XBox settings menu and it is set for HDMI, as I said I am getting video signal to my projector, just no sound.


I think his question pertains to the audio setting in the Anthem, not the Xbox. Did you set the Anthem audio input to HDMI?


----------



## Lefreck

Well it seems I'm not the only one experiencing problems with HDMI audio recognition. Hdmi video signal passed my D2v but audio (which was selected in the source setup of the Anthem) was not (or not always) recognized with a Tvix mediaplayer and a Technisat cablebox. In the end, I connected them via coax. rsp. optical cable to always get sound...


----------



## Lefreck

I got mail from Anthem







They are really quick!


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lefreck*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22274721
> 
> 
> I got mail from Anthem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are really quick!


I know that from experience


----------



## N2AUDIO

Would using a grounded-type power cord harm the AVM 20 in any way? I have a high-end, 12-gauge power cord (from DH Labs) that is the grounded-type, but I don't know if it's safe to use on my AVM 20. Anybody have any experience with this situation?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N2AUDIO*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22274024
> 
> 
> I know that this thread is for owners of Anthem AVM 50, but I have a question that hopefully current owners of Anthem AVM 20 (and possibly AVM 50 owners) can help me with. I recently sent my AVM 20 in for repair to Anthem to fix a problem related to an upgrade I tried to perform, which they fixed fine. The problem is that I accidentally shipped my power cord in with my processor (thinking that they'd need it) and when Anthem shipped my processor back....you guessed it, no power cord. I notified Anthem of this situation and they promptly shipped another power cord out to me. However, the power cord that Anthem shipped out to me doesn't seem to be as, how shall I say, "robust" as the one I remember shipping to Anthem (I only owned the AVM 20 about two weeks before I shipped it to Anthem for repairs). I could have sworn that the power cord I sent them was a either a 12 or 14-gauge, three-prong-type power cord rather than a two-prong polarized plug type, but I could be mistaken.
> 
> My question to Anthem owners is what kind of power cord came with your Anthem processor....was it a 12 or 14-gauge, two-prong polarized-type plug or was it a 12 or 14-gauge, three-prong-type plug?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22274488
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure my 20 and my 50V's power cords are non-grounded.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N2AUDIO*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22274810
> 
> 
> Would using a grounded-type power cord harm the AVM 20 in any way? I have a high-end, 12-gauge power cord (from DH Labs) that is the grounded-type, but I don't know if it's safe to use on my AVM 20. Anybody have any experience with this situation?



Interesting piece from Anthem about 2 prong power cords


"Although more difficult and expensive to implement, Anthem has always used 2-prong AC cords to make installation easier.


A 3-prong cord is prone to ground loops if the system includes other 3-prong equipment or cable/satellite TV. For example: If the preamplifier uses three prongs it is grounded not only through its power cord but also through any non-optical connections to other 3-prong components. This can result in humming or buzzing through the speakers as well as video noise problems. The more elaborate the system, the greater the chance of a ground loop. With 3-prong equipment, balanced XLR interconnection is needed throughout and that type of interconnection is not always possible.


With a 2-prong cord, safety is maintained through either double or reinforced insulation. The next time you see a corded power tool, look for the double-square symbol. It requires more expensive wires on the live side and greater distance between live circuits and isolated circuits and chassis. The distance requirement also applies to spacing inside transformers, making them larger and more expensive. A 2-prong cord also requires a larger line filter because according to safety standards the line-chassis leakage current limit is ten times lower compared to 3-prong. Ironically, a higher leakage current allowance aggravates hum problems in 3-prong systems.


To clear up any final misconceptions, the earth ground provided by the third prong is not meant as a shield, it is a safety measure meant to trip breakers should a chassis become live as a result of coming into contact with a live wire."


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N2AUDIO*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22274810
> 
> 
> Would using a grounded-type power cord harm the AVM 20 in any way? I have a high-end, 12-gauge power cord (from DH Labs) that is the grounded-type, but I don't know if it's safe to use on my AVM 20. Anybody have any experience with this situation?



No harm, the ground will just not be connected at all to the AVM. It has a two prong IEC socket which will physically accept a 3 hole plug (you can't do the reverse).


There may also be a theoretical benefit if your fancy cord has the shield connected to the ground pin at the wall end. Any noise picked up by the shield gets shunted to ground at whichever end of the cable is connected.


----------



## Thxtheater

As a 50v owner and one who still has his AVM20 (I'm putting it up for sale soon since it's been sitting for months on a shelf) It's not a three-prong grounded outlet. Neither the anthem chassis has a ground nor did the plug that came with it have a three-prong ground. In my case, I use Shunyata grounded plugs just because I love their power products.


In terms of the actual gauge of the power cable, I don't specifically recall so I'm sorry I can't enlighten you on that. If the power cord is that much of an issue for you, you would be better-served with an aftermarket one.


Given prior experience with Anthem support, they wouldn't cheap you on purpose with a power cord.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N2AUDIO*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22274810
> 
> 
> Would using a grounded-type power cord harm the AVM 20 in any way? I have a high-end, 12-gauge power cord (from DH Labs) that is the grounded-type, but I don't know if it's safe to use on my AVM 20. Anybody have any experience with this situation?



Wouldn't harm it at all.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N2AUDIO*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22274810
> 
> 
> Would using a grounded-type power cord harm the AVM 20 in any way? I have a high-end, 12-gauge power cord (from DH Labs) that is the grounded-type, but I don't know if it's safe to use on my AVM 20. Anybody have any experience with this situation?


I hope you're not thinking the "high end" power cord is going to give you a "deeper, wider soundstage" or "tighter bass" or a "blacker background" or some such nonsense.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22275340
> 
> 
> I hope you're not thinking the "high end" power cord is going to give you a "deeper, wider soundstage" or "tighter bass" or a "blacker background" or some such nonsense.



Yea really... that's what HiFi-Tuning Fuses are for!


Sorry just got a MusicDirect Email hawking the fuses.


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22274055
> 
> 
> By going direct you give up ARC. So would a DAC make more diff than ARC, you'll have to decide based on your room and how much correction was needed. You can set it to Analog DSP and ARC will be engaged.
> 
> John[/quote
> 
> 
> I want to continue to use ARC. Guess I will use the multi channel analog outputs of the Oppo 95 into the multi channel analog inputs into my AVM 50v. I will set the Oppo 95 to output SACD as DSD and sit back and enjoy.
> 
> 
> Thanks to all.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ That works well since the OPPO can do no processing on its Analog outputs while DSD-direct-to-Analog conversion is engaged for them. I.e., the OPPO will treat each speaker output as Large, equidistant with the others, and with no individual volume trim. In addition, if you have less than 5.1 speakers configured, the OPPO output can not down-mix while SACD Output DSD is in use. All of those settings can only be applied when sending PCM to the Analog outputs.


But this is fine for you because ANALOG-DSP input set on your AVM 50v, combined with ARC, will do all of that (and more), and the type of output the OPPO is sending to it is precisely what it needs to do that right.


Note that you will need to set HDMI Audio OFF to get DSD output to engage in the OPPO since your AVM 50v can not accept HDMI DSD as input.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37860#post_22273590
> 
> 
> Well I am probably not the guy that should be trying to help you, I have my Xbox hooked up with optical for 3D and switched to HDMI to confirm settings for you and I could not get any sound either. I had the source set to HDMI and rebooted the Xbox and then the D2v and still nothing. Oh and when I went into the D2v's settings I got the all purple screen that I had to switch inputs to get rid of, nice. If you still can't get audio there is a cable you can buy or maybe it came with your Xbox that enables you to use optical, like apparently I have to now.



Well Anthem sent me firmware 3.04b and unfortunately it did not fix my problems. I rolled back to v2.10 and presto, I have my HDMI audio back on my Canadian dish and my Xbox and I don't get the all purple screen swithing between inputs and when I go into the D2v's setup. Think I will stay here for a while.


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22277669
> 
> 
> ^ That works well since the OPPO can do no processing on its Analog outputs while DSD-direct-to-Analog conversion is engaged for them. I.e., the OPPO will treat each speaker output as Large, equidistant with the others, and with no individual volume trim. In addition, if you have less than 5.1 speakers configured, the OPPO output can not down-mix while SACD Output DSD is in use. All of those settings can only be applied when sending PCM to the Analog outputs.
> 
> But this is fine for you because ANALOG-DSP input set on your AVM 50v, combined with ARC, will do all of that (and more), and the type of output the OPPO is sending to it is precisely what it needs to do that right.
> 
> Note that you will need to set HDMI Audio OFF to get DSD output to engage in the OPPO since your AVM 50v can not accept HDMI DSD as input.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. So will I have to go into the set up menu of the Oppo every time I switch between listening to SACD (with HDMI audio off) and then watching a Blu Ray via HDMI (turn HDMI audio back on)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22279465
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. So will I have to go into the set up menu of the Oppo every time I switch between listening to SACD (with HDMI audio off) and then watching a Blu Ray via HDMI (turn HDMI audio back on)?


Yes, but ONLY if you want to use SACD Output DSD for the Analog outs. If you use SACD Output PCM you can leave HDMI Audio LPCM or HDMI Audio Bitstream all the time. I use HDMI Audio LPCM.


You can change the HDMI Audio setting "on the fly" while a disc is playing. While playing an SACD disc, the Music playback screen will tell you whether DSD or PCM is in use, to remind you to change if you wish.

--Bob


----------



## N2AUDIO

Hello Everyone,


I discovered a new problem with my Anthem AVM 20, only this time it's with the Anthem remote control. But first, a little history. I purchased my AVM 20 second-hand (I could never afford a new one). The guy I bought it from apparently took very good care of his AVM 20 processor, because it is cosmetically in flawless condition from top to bottom. For some reason, however, the remote control that came with the AVM 20 is making a continuous "buzzing" noise inside. It doesn't matter if the processor is turned on or off, it still makes the noise. It's the weirdest thing. And it's very noticeable, too. I've tried replacing the batteries with new ones, but that doesn't help stop the noise either. Has anyone ever experienced this problem with their Anthem remotes? If so, what was your solution? Also, it doesn't appear that the "channel/pre-set" buttons work, because I programmed my radio stations into memory, but the pre-set "up/down" buttons won't change the channels. I have to physical press each preset button to do that. Also, the remote doesn't backlight to "blue" each time I press a key on the remote, which as I understand from the manual, it's supposed to do. Other than that, however, it functions as it's supposed to and I'm able to get into the setup menus on my processor with it, adjust volume, channel surround modes, etc. Is there a setup menu on the processor that controls the backlighting or other functions on the remote?


Thanks in advance for your help.


----------



## N2AUDIO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22275340
> 
> 
> I hope you're not thinking the "high end" power cord is going to give you a "deeper, wider soundstage" or "tighter bass" or a "blacker background" or some such nonsense.



No, I wasn't expecting "miracles," but I would expect some enhancement in sound, even if it was minimal.


----------



## N2AUDIO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22275300
> 
> 
> As a 50v owner and one who still has his AVM20 (I'm putting it up for sale soon since it's been sitting for months on a shelf) It's not a three-prong grounded outlet. Neither the anthem chassis has a ground nor did the plug that came with it have a three-prong ground. In my case, I use Shunyata grounded plugs just because I love their power products.
> 
> In terms of the actual gauge of the power cable, I don't specifically recall so I'm sorry I can't enlighten you on that. If the power cord is that much of an issue for you, you would be better-served with an aftermarket one.
> 
> Given prior experience with Anthem support, they wouldn't cheap you on purpose with a power cord.



Thanks for all your help with this.....I ended up using the 3-prong cord on the amplifier side and used the 2-prong cord that Anthem gave me on the processor end. The amp was already setup with a grounding plug anyway, so I just used the better cord on this piece. I don't know why I didn't think of doing that before. Old age must be setting in on me...


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22279893
> 
> 
> Yes, but ONLY if you want to use SACD Output DSD for the Analog outs. If you use SACD Output PCM you can leave HDMI Audio LPCM or HDMI Audio Bitstream all the time. I use HDMI Audio LPCM.



Then the 95 DACs are wasted and he might as well get the 93 as I suggested before: http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22274319


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22260710
> 
> *ANCIENT* is the right word
> 
> BTW I do not run the 790 video through the Anthem --- it is a better
> 
> SCALER than Anthem



Good to see Sony has added DVD 24p output, a feature which the Oppo 83 has but their later 93/95 models lack (in this case "ANCIENT" is good).


As for the 4K processing, doesn't your PJ do that? Another case of "6 of one, half dozen of the other".


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22274518
> 
> 
> Has anyone successfully ordered/received the 3D upgrade yet (especially folks with older D2V's).



Nope. They told me "as soon as they are available" when I last inquired (June 27).


This Wednesday will be the 1-year anniversary of the first promise


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22280572
> 
> 
> Good to see Sony has added DVD 24p output, a feature which the Oppo 83 has but their later 93/95 models lack (in this case "ANCIENT" is good).
> 
> As for the 4K processing, doesn't your PJ do that? Another case of "6 of one, half dozen of the other".



Just for clarification the new beta firmware released a few days ago for the Oppo 93/95 has added DVD 24p.


Tom


----------



## AVfile

^ Nice!


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N2AUDIO*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22280237
> 
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I discovered a new problem with my Anthem AVM 20, only this time it's with the Anthem remote control. But first, a little history. I purchased my AVM 20 second-hand (I could never afford a new one). The guy I bought it from apparently took very good care of his AVM 20 processor, because it is cosmetically in flawless condition from top to bottom. For some reason, however, the remote control that came with the AVM 20 is making a continuous "buzzing" noise inside. It doesn't matter if the processor is turned on or off, it still makes the noise. It's the weirdest thing. And it's very noticeable, too. I've tried replacing the batteries with new ones, but that doesn't help stop the noise either. Has anyone ever experienced this problem with their Anthem remotes? If so, what was your solution? Also, it doesn't appear that the "channel/pre-set" buttons work, because I programmed my radio stations into memory, but the pre-set "up/down" buttons won't change the channels. I have to physical press each preset button to do that. Also, the remote doesn't backlight to "blue" each time I press a key on the remote, which as I understand from the manual, it's supposed to do. Other than that, however, it functions as it's supposed to and I'm able to get into the setup menus on my processor with it, adjust volume, channel surround modes, etc. Is there a setup menu on the processor that controls the backlighting or other functions on the remote?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help.



There is no area of the setup menu that controls the backlighting of the remote.

I have never heard of of remote buzzing--- it is definitly not normal.

Is there something your not telling us? Was there something spilled on the remote?? Accidentally stepped on it??










One work around is to use a universal remote that has the Anthem codes in its data base.

Another is to contact Anthem tech and se if they have a replacement remote-- I would bet they do.


When you talk to Anthem Ask them if the D2 remote will work for the AVM-20. If their remotes are interchangable let me know. I have two D2 remotes and I don't use either since I have a good universal remote.


Tom


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N2AUDIO*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22280243
> 
> 
> No, I wasn't expecting "miracles," but I would expect some enhancement in sound, even if it was minimal.


Why would you expect _any_ "enhancement" in sound?


----------



## N2AUDIO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22280703
> 
> 
> There is no area of the setup menu that controls the backlighting of the remote.
> 
> I have never heard of of remote buzzing--- it is definitly not normal.
> 
> Is there something your not telling us? Was there something spilled on the remote?? Accidentally stepped on it??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One work around is to use a universal remote that has the Anthem codes in its data base.
> 
> Another is to contact Anthem tech and se if they have a replacement remote-- I would bet they do.
> 
> When you talk to Anthem Ask them if the D2 remote will work for the AVM-20. If their remotes are interchangable let me know. I have two D2 remotes and I don't use either since I have a good universal remote.
> 
> Tom



I don't know much about the history of the remote as I am just recently the second owner. However, the remote (for all practical purposes) looks brand new. Like I said in my earlier post, the guy I bought it from took extremely good care of this equipment. But the buzzing remote is an annoyance, to say the least. I'm generally not fond of universal remotes, because they tend to have their functions buried in pages that you can't access very easily. As long as the D2 remote is the same type of remote as the AVM 20, the codes are probably pretty similar, especially if they're built on the same type of architecture. I was hoping to avoid having to spend another $150 on a remote, since I just spent and extra $172 just to have Anthem fix a software upgrade I attempted that went bad and froze my processor. Anthem was able to update the software to v2.21 and it works great now, but that damn remote!! Ugh!


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *N2AUDIO*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22280856
> 
> 
> I don't know much about the history of the remote as I am just recently the second owner. However, the remote (for all practical purposes) looks brand new. Like I said in my earlier post, the guy I bought it from took extremely good care of this equipment. But the buzzing remote is an annoyance, to say the least. I'm generally not fond of universal remotes, because they tend to have their functions buried in pages that you can't access very easily. As long as the D2 remote is the same type of remote as the AVM 20, the codes are probably pretty similar, especially if they're built on the same type of architecture. I was hoping to avoid having to spend another $150 on a remote, since I just spent and extra $172 just to have Anthem fix a software upgrade I attempted that went bad and froze my processor. Anthem was able to update the software to v2.21 and it works great now, but that damn remote!! Ugh!



In the D2v manual it mentions 2 things that you might try.

First make sure you are using alkaline batteries, not rechargable ones.

Next, try resetting the remote. *Press and hold 'LEARN' until the light flasses twice, then press 9,8,0.*


Tom


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22275297
> 
> 
> No harm, the ground will just not be connected at all to the AVM. It has a two prong IEC socket which will physically accept a 3 hole plug (you can't do the reverse).
> 
> There may also be a theoretical benefit if your fancy cord has the shield connected to the ground pin at the wall end. Any noise picked up by the shield gets shunted to ground at whichever end of the cable is connected.



Back to this power cord thread... One thing that I have noticed on both my older AVM20 and my AVM50v is that when I do use a 3-prong power adapter in the back of the units, it is a bit loose. What I mean by loose is that you can pull it out quite easily. Is this a characteristic of the fact that i'm using a 3-prong plug in an IEC socket in the back of the Anthem?


Thanks,

Theo


----------



## Doozer428

Anyone know how long Anthem service usually takes? They've had my D2v for about a month to fix a pre-out problem. Dealer claims to have no ETA. I needs me some music! And tv speakers truly suck. I haven't had to listen to normal tv speakers for like 12 years! Except in hotel rooms I suppose.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Craig Morris*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22283525
> 
> 
> Anyone know how long Anthem service usually takes? They've had my D2v for about a month to fix a pre-out problem. Dealer claims to have no ETA. I needs me some music! And tv speakers truly suck. I haven't had to listen to normal tv speakers for like 12 years! Except in hotel rooms I suppose.



That seems like a long time especially since you're not dealing with border issues. I'd call Anthem directly to find out what's up.

John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22283478
> 
> 
> Back to this power cord thread... One thing that I have noticed on both my older AVM20 and my AVM50v is that when I do use a 3-prong power adapter in the back of the units, it is a bit loose. What I mean by loose is that you can pull it out quite easily. Is this a characteristic of the fact that i'm using a 3-prong plug in an IEC socket in the back of the Anthem?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Theo



Probably the use of thin stamped metal in the plug end if it's just a molded plastic type. The better IEC plugs used for making custom cables have solid (billet) nickel and brass parts that tend to grip a lot tighter.


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37890#post_22279893
> 
> 
> Yes, but ONLY if you want to use SACD Output DSD for the Analog outs. If you use SACD Output PCM you can leave HDMI Audio LPCM or HDMI Audio Bitstream all the time. I use HDMI Audio LPCM.
> 
> You can change the HDMI Audio setting "on the fly" while a disc is playing. While playing an SACD disc, the Music playback screen will tell you whether DSD or PCM is in use, to remind you to change if you wish.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks again Bob and everyone else. You guys are a wealth of knowlegde.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22283927
> 
> 
> Probably the use of thin stamped metal in the plug end if it's just a molded plastic type. The better IEC plugs used for making custom cables have solid (billet) nickel and brass parts that tend to grip a lot tighter.



I have two different Shunyatas that I've tried a diamondback and copperhead and both don't fit snug in either the AVM 50v or 20. So if I move out my rack, the plug will sometimes fall out of the Anthem back. I don't have the issue if I use the Shunyatas on other equipment. That's why I found it odd.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22285623
> 
> 
> 
> I have two different Shunyatas that I've tried a diamondback and copperhead and both don't fit snug in either the AVM 50v or 20. So if I move out my rack, the plug will sometimes fall out of the Anthem back. I don't have the issue if I use the Shunyatas on other equipment. That's why I found it odd.


Yep I have the same problem (different brand) with my D2V, I just hold onto the cable when I push in/out


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22285623
> 
> 
> I have two different Shunyatas that I've tried a diamondback and copperhead and both don't fit snug in either the AVM 50v or 20. So if I move out my rack, the plug will sometimes fall out of the Anthem back. I don't have the issue if I use the Shunyatas on other equipment. That's why I found it odd.



I had the same problem with some aftermarket power cords and my subs. Seems some plugs and connections have slightly different tolerences.


I took some electrical tape and ran it around the plug- one time around was sufficient- and it fit snuggly.

It will not fall out unless I pull it out. Easy, cheap, and it works well.


Tom


----------



## wingnut4772

I am finding more and more that my D2V 3d is having problems acquiring audio. I have to turn it off and then back on sometimes which fixes the problem. This happens in Satellite ( my Direct TV input) and DVD Input. On the DVD input I use the HDMI cable that came with my OPPO 95 so I'm sure it is the latest technology. Not sure about the Satellite HDMI. Any ideas?

Thanks.


----------



## boostie

I am having similar problems with my PS3 and oppo.


Have to turn the D2V on and off to get connected again. Mine is 1 week old with 3d upgrade.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22287636
> 
> 
> I am having similar problems with my PS3 and oppo.
> 
> Have to turn the D2V on and off to get connected again. Mine is 1 week old with 3d upgrade.



Which firmware are you using?

John


----------



## N2AUDIO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22280703
> 
> 
> There is no area of the setup menu that controls the backlighting of the remote.
> 
> I have never heard of of remote buzzing--- it is definitly not normal.
> 
> Is there something your not telling us? Was there something spilled on the remote?? Accidentally stepped on it??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One work around is to use a universal remote that has the Anthem codes in its data base.
> 
> Another is to contact Anthem tech and se if they have a replacement remote-- I would bet they do.
> 
> When you talk to Anthem Ask them if the D2 remote will work for the AVM-20. If their remotes are interchangable let me know. I have two D2 remotes and I don't use either since I have a good universal remote.
> 
> Tom



Tom,


I explained to Anthem Tech Support the problems with the buzzing remote and they pretty much said that the remote is malfunctioning and should be replaced. Tech Support also said that the D2 remote will work with the AVM 20. They didn't, however, tell me how much it would cost for a replacement remote. I do have a Logitech Harmony 700 universal remote, but it's a bit of a pain to use because I have to flip through several pages just to change surround modes (or any other button that isn't direct access) and I can't even access the setup button (I have to manually press the button on the front panel, which sort of defeats the purpose of the remote). You mentioned that you have two D2 remotes. Would you be willing to part with one?


James


----------



## boostie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22288251
> 
> 
> Which firmware are you using?
> 
> John



3.0. I have just turned off the auto digital setting so I will see how it goes.


----------



## boostie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22258840
> 
> 
> Yep. Along with the other stuff. Never, ever, just post problem reports here. Nick would get worried if he didn't get at least one email from me after a firmware release.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the DTS-HD MA 7.1 decoding issue, the thing that boggles my mind is that the decoder maker was able to get that decoder certified by DTS in the first place. I mean this is not some weirdly technical mistake on the periphery of common usage. Getting audio decoded into the correct channels is kind of basic. And you know that when the problem report went to the decoder maker, the first thing that must have come back was, "We can't change anything now. The way it is, passes certification." Fortunately, there IS a workaround. It could be worse.
> 
> --Bob



Can you explain what the decoder issue is with 7.1 please? News to me...


I just watched Kung fu panda 2 which is in 7.1 and it sound awful. Low volume and no effects.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22288692
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37800#post_22258840
> 
> 
> Yep. Along with the other stuff. Never, ever, just post problem reports here. Nick would get worried if he didn't get at least one email from me after a firmware release.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the DTS-HD MA 7.1 decoding issue, the thing that boggles my mind is that the decoder maker was able to get that decoder certified by DTS in the first place. I mean this is not some weirdly technical mistake on the periphery of common usage. Getting audio decoded into the correct channels is kind of basic. And you know that when the problem report went to the decoder maker, the first thing that must have come back was, "We can't change anything now. The way it is, passes certification." Fortunately, there IS a workaround. It could be worse.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you explain what the decoder issue is with 7.1 please? News to me...
> 
> 
> I just watched Kung fu panda 2 which is in 7.1 and it sound awful. Low volume and no effects.
Click to expand...


Your issue is something else. Most likely your player is using the lossy DTS 5.1 "compatibility" track instead of the DTS-HD MA 7.1 track, or possibly even down-mixing to just 2.0. I.e., I think you have a setup error in the way you are using your player.


The issue I'm referring to is a long standing problem where audio for the side surrounds is also coming out in the fronts when playing a DTS-HD MA 7.1 track as Bitstream input. I.e., the LS sound also goes to LF and the RS sound also goes to RF. The workaround is to let the player do the decode and use LPCM input instead.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" Firmware V3.04b Now on Password Protected Download Page*


Anthem has placed "test" firmware V3.04b for the D2v and AVM 50v on the password protected download page.


Change notes for the V3.x series now read:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v3.04a beta - fixes:
> 
> 
> 1. Depending on hardware, an active source was needed on HDMI1 to enable audio on HDMI2-4. Same with HDMI5 / HDMI6-8.
> 
> 
> 2. Depending on system, Custom Resolution Manager v1.1.0 resulted in double image.
> 
> 
> 3. Unusual audio input formats such as 6.1 (Star Wars) allowed scrolling through non-applicable surround modes (Pro Logic IIx) - mode list now shows only "None" in such cases.
> 
> 
> 4. DTS mode preset was not being applied (surround mode had to be selected on the fly).
> 
> 
> 5. Further fix for item 3 below.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.03 beta
> 
> 
> 1. Multichannel Dolby TrueHD downmix to stereo level was low - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. Certain CD tracks were muting mid-song - fixed.
> 
> 
> 3. Dolby Pro Logic IIx did not always result in sound from rear channels - fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.01 - new unit production release
> 
> 
> 
> v3.00 release candidate
> 
> 
> 1. Some minor timing changes to HDMI. These are not expected to affect operation with equipment combinations already working and may improve operation with reportedly problematic combinations (we couldn't reproduce those problems).




I believe it is just a typo that the most recent note refers to V3.04a instead of V3.04b.


As always, please be aware that "test" firmware is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises, perhaps requiring you to roll back to an earlier firmware version. If you are not comfortable with such an adventure, please wait until an "official" firmware is released.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I loaded "test" firmware V3.04b into my D2v 3D without problems. As is my practice, I also re-Uploaded my existing ARC solution.


The new firmware passes all of my initial sanity checks.


However, for the three issues I'm currently tracking, there is no change in this firmware:


1) Bitstream input of DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks still decodes sound for LS into LF as well, and sound for RS into RF as well.


2) The failure of the power up sequence if a 3-button Source selection command is sent prior to the unit fully powering up still exists. The front panel goes black for a bit and the Source selection command gets ignored.


3) The problem I'm having with incorrect rendering of S-Video input from my Velodyne DD series subwoofer still exists.


For these 3 issues, there is no change in behavior from V3.03.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve


The failure of the power up sequence if a 3-button Source selection command is sent prior to the unit fully powering up still exists. The front panel goes black for a bit and the Source selection command gets ignored.

 

Pretty important one as I would suggest that most of us use this feature!


----------



## dmusoke

Hi all:


*I believe i have managed to reliably duplicate the purple haze this time*... Whenever i switch back and forth from a source whose Scaler Input setting is "HDMI1" (for example for my HD DVR cable box) to another whose Scaler Input setting is set to "None" (which i have for my 2CH direct mode for CD playback).


When i change the setting from None to HDMI1, for example, and switche between sources with scaler inputs set to HDMI, the haze disappears. But if i switch it back to None, then the purple haze appears again.


This is easily reproducible. Please let me know if you any of you can reproduce it in your setups. I'm using the latest beta v3.04b and have had this problem as far back as 2.14d, if not earlier.


Thanks,


David


PS

I have my video o/p config is 1080p/60, 12-bits, Studio RGB, HDTV colorspace. I tried all other colorspaces and video bit-depths


----------



## boostie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22288968
> 
> 
> Your issue is something else. Most likely your player is using the lossy DTS 5.1 "compatibility" track instead of the DTS-HD MA 7.1 track, or possibly even down-mixing to just 2.0. I.e., I think you have a setup error in the way you are using your player.
> 
> The issue I'm referring to is a long standing problem where audio for the side surrounds is also coming out in the fronts when playing a DTS-HD MA 7.1 track as Bitstream input. I.e., the LS sound also goes to LF and the RS sound also goes to RF. The workaround is to let the player do the decode and use LPCM input instead.
> 
> --Bob



Dissapointing that I was not made aware of this issue when I purchased it. Is this a firmware issue or "chip" issue?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22290969
> 
> 
> Dissapointing that I was not made aware of this issue when I purchased it. Is this a firmware issue or "chip" issue?



Just change the output from your source to PCM and it will fix this issue. PCM will sound the same as bitstream.

John


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22289888
> 
> 
> I loaded "test" firmware V3.04b into my D2v 3D without problems. As is my practice, I also re-Uploaded my existing ARC solution.
> 
> The new firmware passes all of my initial sanity checks.
> 
> However, for the three issues I'm currently tracking, there is no change in this firmware:
> 
> 1) Bitstream input of DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks still decodes sound for LS into LF as well, and sound for RS into RF as well.


Bob:


What's a good soundtrack for demonstrating this effect? I played Jurassic Park 7.1 DTS MA from XBMC on my PC, and listened for it, but its presence wasn't obvious.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22291184
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22289888
> 
> 
> I loaded "test" firmware V3.04b into my D2v 3D without problems. As is my practice, I also re-Uploaded my existing ARC solution.
> 
> The new firmware passes all of my initial sanity checks.
> 
> However, for the three issues I'm currently tracking, there is no change in this firmware:
> 
> 1) Bitstream input of DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks still decodes sound for LS into LF as well, and sound for RS into RF as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> What's a good soundtrack for demonstrating this effect? I played Jurassic Park 7.1 DTS MA from XBMC on my PC, and listened for it, but its presence wasn't obvious.
Click to expand...


It's most easily spotted playing a calibration track that sends audio to one channel at a time. You'll find a 7.1 DTS-HD MA calibration track on, for example, AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, or Disney WOW World of Wonder, Blu-ray.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boostie*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22290969
> 
> 
> Dissapointing that I was not made aware of this issue when I purchased it. Is this a firmware issue or "chip" issue?



It is likely a firmware issue in the 3rd party decoder which Anthem has incorporated into the design. I.e., it is likely fixable in a firmware update if the decoder vendor can be convinced to get off their duff.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22290960
> 
> 
> Hi all:
> 
> 
> *I believe i have managed to reliably duplicate the purple haze this time*... Whenever i switch back and forth from a source whose Scaler Input setting is "HDMI1" (for example for my HD DVR cable box) to another whose Scaler Input setting is set to "None" (which i have for my 2CH direct mode for CD playback).
> 
> 
> When i change the setting from None to HDMI1, for example, and switche between sources with scaler inputs set to HDMI, the haze disappears. But if i switch it back to None, then the purple haze appears again.
> 
> 
> This is easily reproducible. Please let me know if you any of you can reproduce it in your setups. I'm using the latest beta v3.04b and have had this problem as far back as 2.14d, if not earlier.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David
> 
> 
> PS
> 
> I have my video o/p config is 1080p/60, 12-bits, Studio RGB, HDTV colorspace. I tried all other colorspaces and video bit-depths



As a workaround, try setting the None scaler to a video input that is not connected -- e.g., S-Video, or Component 3. Your problem may be due to the scaler being turned on and off by use of None. A "No Signal" input might actually work better than None. Either way, it is useful extra data for the Anthem engineers.


Why HDMI 1 would be "special" as the other end of this Source change is another question.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22291259
> 
> 
> As a workaround, try setting the None scaler to a video input that is not connected -- e.g., S-Video, or Component 3. Your problem may be due to the scaler being turned on and off by use of None. A "No Signal" input might actually work better than None. Either way, it is useful extra data for the Anthem engineers.
> 
> Why HDMI 1 would be "special" as the other end of this Source change is another question.
> 
> --Bob



Bob ... thx for responding to my query. First of all, there's nothing unique about HDMI1. Its just the DVR input i use for my broadcast viewing.


Now, i set the scaler to S-Video, Component1-4. The pink haze is still there. And now, here is the kicker... *it doesn't occur on any of the used or unused HDMI inputs*. I use HDMI1 for my DVR and HDMI2 for my BDP-95. HDMI3 thru 8 are unused and empty ( well, i have cable savers in their slots to cut down on the dust and stress on their connectors but are electrically inert).


So its seems if the scaler is set to None or any of the analog input sources, the pink haze occurs. No haze occurs on the HDMI inputs, whether used or not.


I will update Anthem on this as well....


- David


PS


Have you tried to emulate my problem in your setup?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22291259
> 
> 
> As a workaround, try setting the None scaler to a video input that is not connected -- e.g., S-Video, or Component 3. Your problem may be due to the scaler being turned on and off by use of None. A "No Signal" input might actually work better than None. Either way, it is useful extra data for the Anthem engineers.
> 
> Why HDMI 1 would be "special" as the other end of this Source change is another question.
> 
> --Bob



Could the video problem be related to the audio issue starting with HDMI 1 ?



CHANGE LIST


v3.04a beta - fixes:


1. Depending on hardware, an active source was needed on HDMI1 to enable audio on HDMI2-4. Same with HDMI5 / HDMI6-8.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22291218
> 
> 
> It is likely a firmware issue in the 3rd party decoder which Anthem has incorporated into the design. I.e., it is likely fixable in a firmware update if the decoder vendor can be convinced to get off their duff.
> 
> --Bob



If Anthem is using an off the shelf decoder chip I wonder how many other units made by other manufacturers are having the same problem.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22291218
> 
> 
> It is likely a firmware issue in the 3rd party decoder which Anthem has incorporated into the design. I.e., it is likely fixable in a firmware update if the decoder vendor can be convinced to get off their duff.


The decoder chip is fine. It is the Anthem executive code telling it to use the alternative surround speaker arrangement.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ That's logical, and was my guess as well, but Anthem says no.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite

I wonder if updating the firmware so many times has something to do with it. Since 2.14 I started getting the purple haze coming out of the D2v's set up on two of my inputs and also when switching between these two inputs only and had lost HDMI audio on my Xbox and one of my satellite dishes. I switched back to 2.10 and for the life of me I can't remember why I left it, I am having no problems now, I am sure there were problems before and that's why I upgraded from 2.10, One I can remember was switching to a 24fps source, it took something like 15 attempts to get video now it is just as fast as when they fixed it in 2.14.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22291755
> 
> 
> The decoder chip is fine. It is the Anthem executive code telling it to use the alternative surround speaker arrangement.



so it is not the manufaktor off the chip there have to fix it - it is anthem. they have say to me that it was out off there hands.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22291702
> 
> 
> Could the video problem be related to the audio issue starting with HDMI 1 ?
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> v3.04a beta - fixes:
> 
> 1. Depending on hardware, an active source was needed on HDMI1 to enable audio on HDMI2-4. Same with HDMI5 / HDMI6-8.



Actualy 3.04*a* did not fix that problem but 3.04*b* did.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22290960
> 
> 
> Hi all:
> *I believe i have managed to reliably duplicate the purple haze this time*... Whenever i switch back and forth from a source whose Scaler Input setting is "HDMI1" (for example for my HD DVR cable box) to another whose Scaler Input setting is set to "None" (which i have for my 2CH direct mode for CD playback).
> 
> When i change the setting from None to HDMI1, for example, and switche between sources with scaler inputs set to HDMI, the haze disappears. But if i switch it back to None, then the purple haze appears again.
> 
> This is easily reproducible. Please let me know if you any of you can reproduce it in your setups. I'm using the latest beta v3.04b and have had this problem as far back as 2.14d, if not earlier.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David
> 
> PS
> 
> I have my video o/p config is 1080p/60, 12-bits, Studio RGB, HDTV colorspace. I tried all other colorspaces and video bit-depths





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22291259
> 
> 
> As a workaround, try setting the None scaler to a video input that is not connected -- e.g., S-Video, or Component 3. Your problem may be due to the scaler being turned on and off by use of None. A "No Signal" input might actually work better than None. Either way, it is useful extra data for the Anthem engineers.
> 
> Why HDMI 1 would be "special" as the other end of this Source change is another question.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22291481
> 
> 
> Bob ... thx for responding to my query. First of all, there's nothing unique about HDMI1. Its just the DVR input i use for my broadcast viewing.
> 
> Now, i set the scaler to S-Video, Component1-4. The pink haze is still there. And now, here is the kicker... *it doesn't occur on any of the used or unused HDMI inputs*. I use HDMI1 for my DVR and HDMI2 for my BDP-95. HDMI3 thru 8 are unused and empty ( well, i have cable savers in their slots to cut down on the dust and stress on their connectors but are electrically inert).
> 
> So its seems if the scaler is set to None or any of the analog input sources, the pink haze occurs. No haze occurs on the HDMI inputs, whether used or not.
> 
> I will update Anthem on this as well....
> 
> - David
> 
> PS
> 
> Have you tried to emulate my problem in your setup?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22291702
> 
> 
> Could the video problem be related to the audio issue starting with HDMI 1 ?
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> v3.04a beta - fixes:
> 
> 1. Depending on hardware, an active source was needed on HDMI1 to enable audio on HDMI2-4. Same with HDMI5 / HDMI6-8.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22292571
> 
> 
> Actuall 3.04*a* did not fix that problem but 3.04*b* did.



And i'm using 3.04b but have had this issue since 2.1x versions.


Can anyone try to duplicate the problem? Its really a quick and simple thing to do, simply switch back and forth between an active HDMI source input (say your TV) and one whose scaler input is set to None (like the FM-AM input). Do you get the purple haze afterwards?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22292757
> 
> 
> And i'm using 3.04b but have had this issue since 2.1x versions.
> 
> Can anyone try to duplicate the problem? Its really a quick and simple thing to do, simply switch back and forth between an active HDMI source input (say your TV) and one whose scaler input is set to None (like the FM-AM input). Do you get the purple haze afterwards?



dmusoke


I have a D2v using v2.11,

I tried several sources and could not get any defects like you described.

I switched from my Comcast Motorola DCT6412 III DVR HDMI input to Aux, FM-AM, and several sources under Sat. Also tried using a C-200 PCH, C-300 PCH and an OPPO BDP-83 as the HDMI sources to the HDMI scaler inputs set as none.

No purple haze


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22291770
> 
> 
> ^ That's logical, and was my guess as well, but Anthem says no.
> 
> --Bob


I am not guessing. I expect the situation to get resolved sooner than later.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22291755
> 
> 
> The decoder chip is fine. It is the Anthem executive code telling it to use the alternative surround speaker arrangement.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22291770
> 
> 
> ^ That's logical, and was my guess as well, but Anthem says no.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22293217
> 
> 
> I am not guessing. I expect the situation to get resolved sooner than later.



In addition to the 7.1 audio issue Anthem now has done damage to their integrity. Why would the support people deny the truth ? Are we dealing with tech support people unknowledgeable who are not caring or what ?

Is this the reason many queries to Anthem support bring no response ?

If there is a problem step up, acknowledge it and don't hide behind false information.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Here's hoping you are right! My usual source of info is not optimistic.

--Bob


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22291205
> 
> 
> It's most easily spotted playing a calibration track that sends audio to one channel at a time. You'll find a 7.1 DTS-HD MA calibration track on, for example, AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, or Disney WOW World of Wonder, Blu-ray.
> 
> --Bob


Playing the AIX disc makes the problem clearly audible. I'm glad the workaround is simple. I did notice something very strange, though: When I set XBMC to decode the 7.1 DTS MA Jurassic Park soundtrack instead of bitstreaming it, the Anthem display shows "PCM--5.1 + DPL IIX" instead of "PCM--7.1".


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22293397
> 
> 
> Playing the AIX disc makes the problem clearly audible. I'm glad the workaround is simple. I did notice something very strange, though: When I set XBMC to decode the 7.1 DTS MA Jurassic Park soundtrack instead of bitstreaming it, the Anthem display shows "PCM--5.1 + DPL IIX" instead of "PCM--7.1".


Those discs are encoded strangely and can produce a variety of odd results.


I believe what you are seeing is due to the disc authors having used a high bit rate form of audio for the "Secondary Audio" on that disc. The decoder may not have the horsepower to decode both that AND the lossless 7.1, so it is using the lossy 5.1 compatibility track instead.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*OK, things are moving on this DTS-HD MA 7.1 Bitstream decoding issue.*


The latest conjecture is: It is working correctly!


The D2v does a fancier form of DTS decoding which takes into account meta-data in the Bitstream for where the speakers were placed when the mix was created. This is an added complexity in the DTS data that most decoders simply ignore. In theory it would be paired with a user specification of where the speakers are placed in the home theater (i.e., angle around the center seat to point to each speaker). In practice the D2v uses default, standard locations for the home theater speakers. If the disc contents say the mix's speakers are at a different angle then the presumed, default, home theater speaker locations, then the decoder puts some audio into the home speakers on either side of the specified mix speaker locations.


Anthem has now confirmed that the DTS-HD MA 7.1 track on AIX includes meta-data saying the side surround speakers are at a 90 degree angle instead of the default 110 degree angle used by the decoder for the home speaker Side Surrounds. Thus it is "correct" for this style of decoder to steer some of the audio to the front speaker on the same side.


I had thought for some time that there might be an error in the home speaker placement defaults Anthem was using during its DTS decode. It appears what is ACTUALLY happening is that the test track on the AIX disc is encoded using different side surround locations than "normal". Again, decoders in players would not be sensitive to this because they do not do this mix steering type of decoding.


The Anthem folks are also going to check the Disney WOW World of Wonder, Blu-ray, which exhibits the same behavior to confirm if it is also encoded like this.


(This sort of disc encoding oddness is not new in the world of DTS. New LIne put out some 7.1 discs where there really wasn't audio for true rear speakers. Instead the mix included TWO sets of SIDE speakers -- 4 side speakers in all! I.e., a cheap way to take a 5.1 commercial theater mix and re-market it as a 7.1 home disc mix!)


To the best of my knowledge, nobody ever implemented the other half of DTS's grand scheme here -- i.e, adding a UI for the user to specify the actual home speaker angles. So really, people probably shouldn't be authoring the discs using odd mix speaker positioning, but you know how that goes. Give people toys to play with, and they will play.


Anyway, I think we are getting closer to a correct understanding of what's going on, and the question is what to do about it.


One solution would be to turn off the mix steering function in the DTS decoding in the D2v. That would instantly give the same results as the Blu-ray players are producing. However that discards the value of the mix steering type of decoding in real content where it may very well be working just fine.


Another solution would to alter the default home speaker locations the D2v decoder is using for this, but that would screw things up for discs authored "normally".


The third solution is to acknowledge that this is actually working correctly, and educate users accordingly. For example, this means the results of using a test track such as the one found on AIX will, by design, be different if the player is doing the decoding (LPCM input) instead of the D2v doing the decoding (Bitstream input).


Stay tuned.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

^ a good reason for why we shouldn't jump to conclusions. Thanks for that update Bob.

John


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22293434
> 
> 
> Those discs are encoded strangely and can produce a variety of odd results.
> 
> I believe what you are seeing is due to the disc authors having used a high bit rate form of audio for the "Secondary Audio" on that disc. The decoder may not have the horsepower to decode both that AND the lossless 7.1, so it is using the lossy 5.1 compatibility track instead.
> 
> --Bob


Perhaps I should look for a way to turn off secondary audio in XBMC. The news that it may be correct for some of the surround sound to be in the fronts is quite interesting.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22293692
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22293434
> 
> 
> Those discs are encoded strangely and can produce a variety of odd results.
> 
> I believe what you are seeing is due to the disc authors having used a high bit rate form of audio for the "Secondary Audio" on that disc. The decoder may not have the horsepower to decode both that AND the lossless 7.1, so it is using the lossy 5.1 compatibility track instead.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps I should look for a way to turn off secondary audio in XBMC. The news that it may be correct for some of the surround sound to be in the fronts is quite interesting.
Click to expand...


I'm not sure I'm recalling this situation correctly, but I *THINK* what you are seeing also happens on the OPPO 83 (but not on the 93 or 95). The problem is that the Blu-ray certification tests force the decoder to set up AS IF you are using Secondary Audio (when it is present) even if you aren't. And in the 83 that meant the lossy primary track had to be used because Pixar -- for God only knows what reason -- had pointlessly used a high bit rate format for the Secondary Audio. The 93 and the 95 have more horsepower so they aren't bitten by this.


NOW, I'm assuming you have Secondary Audio mixing turned OFF -- i.e., for THESE Pixar discs, this problem shows even when it IS off. But if you have Secondary Audio mixing enabled in your decoder then yes, you should start by turning it OFF as many decoders can not mix Secondary Audio INTO the high bit rate result of decoding the lossless Primary. So if you have Secondary Audio mixing enabled, these decoders have to decode the lossy compatibility track for the Primary (which is never move than 5.1) ANYWAY.


More powerful audio setups (such as in the OPPO 93 and 95) can decode the full, lossless Primary, and also the Secondary (even if it is higher than normal bit rate) and mix those together into high bit rate LPCM -- i.e., full quality. And if you are using LPCM output, then you are golden. But even in these devices, if you have specified Bitstream output you are stuck. That's because the LPCM resulting after that mix has to be RE-encoded, on the fly, back into a Bitstream for output. And no consumer hardware has the horsepower to encode a lossless bitstream on the fly. So the RE-encode is done using a lossy Bitstream -- again, as 5.1.


Confused yet?










Basically, if you are using Bitstream output you should probably have Secondary Audio OFF. If you are using LPCM output, from a player with enough horsepower, you can leave Secondary Audio ON -- leave it OFF otherwise. But these Pixar discs may give you trouble even if Secondary Audio is OFF.


Obviously if you want to use a disc feature that requires Secondary Audio -- typically Menu Sound Effects and Picture in Picture Commentary tracks -- then you turn it back on for that playback.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350

This channel remapping feature is something we've suspected for a while. The question is should the processor be implementing it fully? Or ignoring it completely?


Points of ponder:


There is no interface to tell the D2v what angles the user is actually using. For example my side surrounds are actually at 90 degrees which means the processor is incorrectly correcting such encoded tracks. So without a user input interface should the feature be ignored as it is in virtually every other processor.


These oddly encoded tracks are possibly incorrectly encoded with such metadata and as such should be ignored by the processor.....is this is a redundant feature that is not and should not be implemented.


Should the user be given the option to disable this feature completely?


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mark at AIX has confirmed that they choose 90 for the sides in the 7.1 tracks (110-120 for the sides in the 5.1 tracks). This may be guided by what they think best for music.


Anthem could probably turn off the mixing style decode, but on balance I think it is "a good thing". It's just the potential for user confusion from test tracks like this which says otherwise. In reality the decode difference for 110 vs 90 location is probably close to negligible for real content -- swamped by other listening room issues.


The upshot is that when using the AIX test tracks for speaker calibration, it is best to use the LPCM tracks on that AIX disc, as I've long recommended.


Now, if all this pans out, this means there really isn't a bug, there's just a designed-in decoding difference for DTS-HD MA between players and the D2v. Depending on how closely your actual speaker configuration comes to matching the assumptions built into the player and into the D2v the difference will be larger or smaller, but except for specialized test tracks like this it will likely not be something that jumps out at you. In any event, this would suggest there's not really a bug here, and the choice between using LPCM input or Bitstream input then becomes one of personal preference for which style of decoding you like better.


ETA: Using LPCM input is equivalent to turning off mix steering, so there may be no need to add an option for that in the D2v.


Again, this is info in progress, so stay tuned.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350

The only thing is that this probably ties in with that front L/R level issue we had, ie it's reducing the front L/R levels by 3dB so it can mix the side surround info into those channels.


You mention that AIX confirmed this was a design decision, but did they infact test this decision? And why on earth would they make this decision on calibration test tones?


I think the whole thing just opens up a can of worms and leaves us no option to ignore poor decisions or unintended consequences.


The problem I have with this is that there is no way for the user to input the information that this feature needs to properly operate. It's like singing happy birthday to someone when you don't even know when their birthday is.......you might get it right but not all the time.


I really think Anthem should atleast give us the option to disable this. Especially when there are Bluray players and media players that only bitstream HD tracks and cannot decode them to LPCM.


Cheers


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22293868
> 
> 
> Mark at AIX has confirmed that they choose 90 for the sides in the 7.1 tracks (110-120 for the sides in the 5.1 tracks). This may be guided by what they think best for music.
> 
> Anthem could probably turn off the mixing style decode, but on balance I think it is "a good thing". It's just the potential for user confusion from test tracks like this which says otherwise. In reality the decode difference for 110 vs 90 location is probably close to negligible for real content -- swamped by other listening room issues.
> 
> The upshot is that when using the AIX test tracks for speaker calibration, it is best to use the LPCM tracks on that AIX disc, as I've long recommended.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, if all this pans out, this means there really isn't a bug, there's just a designed-in decoding difference for DTS-HD MA between players and the D2v. Depending on how closely your actual speaker configuration comes to matching the assumptions built into the player and into the D2v the difference will be larger or smaller, but except for specialized test tracks like this it will likely not be something that jumps out at you. In any event, this would suggest there's not really a bug here, and the choice between using LPCM input or Bitstream input then becomes one of personal preference for which style of decoding you like better.
> 
> ETA: Using LPCM input is equivalent to turning off mix steering, so there may be no need to add an option for that in the D2v.
> 
> Again, this is info in progress, so stay tuned.
> 
> --Bob


Does this mean that "regular" 7.1 DTSMA soundtracks may have minimal to no mixing of surrounds to the fronts? I tried to listen for it with JP, and it wasn't obvious.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22293933
> 
> 
> Does this mean that "regular" 7.1 DTSMA soundtracks may have minimal to no mixing of surrounds to the fronts? I tried to listen for it with JP, and it wasn't obvious.



I suspect you will find it very hard to hear the difference in real content. You'd need something like a constant volume sound panning around the room. If you have Dipole surrounds I doubt you'd hear it at all in real content.


This has been the dig against this whole thing from the beginning. DTS added this complexity for no particularly useful advantage. But the PROBLEM is that studios CAN and DO author their discs specifying these oddball mix-speaker locations -- e.g., "Hairspray". So the mix-style decoding could, on balance, be a good thing even though the other HALF of the puzzle -- letting the user specify the actual home-speaker locations -- is not implemented by anybody. It may only be a good thing on some discs. It may make no noticeable difference on many discs. And I suspect there are only a handful of discs where the results would be detrimental -- the sort of disc authoring errors Macca alludes to.

--Bob


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22292757
> 
> 
> And i'm using 3.04b but have had this issue since 2.1x versions.
> 
> Can anyone try to duplicate the problem? Its really a quick and simple thing to do, simply switch back and forth between an active HDMI source input (say your TV) and one whose scaler input is set to None (like the FM-AM input). Do you get the purple haze afterwards?



I am running 2.11, and beside of the occasional no audio hdmi handshake, have no issues with this box and no purple haze. Hdmi 1 sat/pvr box, hdmi 2 ps3, hdmi 3 htpc.


I would be hard pressed to complain about the overall quality of my 50v.


I did find upgrading my monoprice hdmi to monoprice high speed hdmi cables have decreased my audio handshake issues by about 70%. Still would like that fixed .... but just maybe the free 3D board will help?


Bata usally means beta.


Regards


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22292757
> 
> 
> And i'm using 3.04b but have had this issue since 2.1x versions.
> 
> 
> Can anyone try to duplicate the problem? Its really a quick and simple thing to do, simply switch back and forth between an active HDMI source input (say your TV) and one whose scaler input is set to None (like the FM-AM input). Do you get the purple haze afterwards?



Using V3.04b. I send native resolution, 8 bit, Studio RGB to my display.


My Comcast HD/DVR uses HDMI 2 input. I set it to a 1080i channel (it uses "Native" resolution output). The comcast box is set to send YCbCr 4:4:4 to the D2v.


My FM/AM Source normally also gets its Video from the Comcast box. (I just don't power up my display if I don't also want that video.) I changed it to NONE settings for Scaler Input, Component In, S-Video In, and Composite In.


I then switched back and forth between them a dozen times. No Shocking Pink video failures occurred. The handshake going back to the Comcast was slower than I'd prefer, but it got it right every single time. Of course the video was muted to black when I was on FM/AM.


I'm sorry, but I can not reproduce your failure.

--Bob


----------



## a1usedcomp

Can someone tell me the current download for the D2 I dont see the D2 download on Anthems site


Mine shows v1.33


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *a1usedcomp*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22294560
> 
> 
> Can someone tell me the current download for the D2 I dont see the D2 download on Anthems site
> 
> 
> Mine shows v1.33



That's the right one.


The trick to finding the downloads for the older products is to do a search on their web page for "discontinued":

http://anthemav.com/discontinued-products 


--Bob


----------



## a1usedcomp

Thanks


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22293143
> 
> 
> dmusoke
> 
> I have a D2v using v2.11,
> 
> I tried several sources and could not get any defects like you described.
> 
> I switched from my Comcast Motorola DCT6412 III DVR HDMI input to Aux, FM-AM, and several sources under Sat. Also tried using a C-200 PCH, C-300 PCH and an OPPO BDP-83 as the HDMI sources to the HDMI scaler inputs set as none.
> 
> No purple haze





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22294136
> 
> 
> I am running 2.11, and beside of the occasional no audio hdmi handshake, have no issues with this box and no purple haze. Hdmi 1 sat/pvr box, hdmi 2 ps3, hdmi 3 htpc.
> 
> I would be hard pressed to complain about the overall quality of my 50v.
> 
> I did find upgrading my monoprice hdmi to monoprice high speed hdmi cables have decreased my audio handshake issues by about 70%. Still would like that fixed .... but just maybe the free 3D board will help?
> 
> Bata usally means beta.
> 
> Regards





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22294375
> 
> 
> Using V3.04b. I send native resolution, 8 bit, Studio RGB to my display.
> 
> My Comcast HD/DVR uses HDMI 2 input. I set it to a 1080i channel (it uses "Native" resolution output). The comcast box is set to send YCbCr 4:4:4 to the D2v.
> 
> My FM/AM Source normally also gets its Video from the Comcast box. (I just don't power up my display if I don't also want that video.) I changed it to NONE settings for Scaler Input, Component In, S-Video In, and Composite In.
> 
> I then switched back and forth between them a dozen times. No Shocking Pink video failures occurred. The handshake going back to the Comcast was slower than I'd prefer, but it got it right every single time. Of course the video was muted to black when I was on FM/AM.
> 
> I'm sorry, but I can not reproduce your failure.
> 
> --Bob



I would like to relay my thanks and appreciation to Shayne, Stew and Bob for attempting to duplicate my pink haze problem i'm having. My setup is very similar to yours Bob, in that, i have YCbCr 4:4:4 from my Moxi DVR and convert to 1080p / RGB into my TV. I have attached my setup screen for my cable DVR. Is there a problem i'm missing? I tried 8/10/12-bit depths and problem still exists.


It seems a wrong colorspace is returned when i perform the switching between analog inputs or when scaler is set to None for any input.

I have a 20ft HDMi cable to the TV


Anthem Setup Menu.JPG 527k .JPG file


----------



## p.las

so - i have my side surround about 110 degrees from my centerspeaker. that means that mine is woorking correctly?


what about the big level difference - about 6db on some movies with DTS HD MR 7.1 audio?


what firmware will you recomend? - a am running v2.10


i have to say that this is good news


----------



## dmusoke

Anyone using the 50v/D2v with the Pioneer KURO Elite plasma TV's (PRO-151)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22294776
> 
> 
> I would like to relay my thanks and appreciation to Shayne, Stew and Bob for attempting to duplicate my pink haze problem i'm having. My setup is very similar to yours Bob, in that, i have YCbCr 4:4:4 from my Moxi DVR and convert to 1080p / RGB into my TV. I have attached my setup screen for my cable DVR. Is there a problem i'm missing? I tried 8/10/12-bit depths and problem still exists.
> 
> 
> It seems a wrong colorspace is returned when i perform the switching between analog inputs or when scaler is set to None for any input.
> 
> I have a 20ft HDMi cable to the TV. . . .



I realize this is a painful suggestion, but since you've tried just about everything else this is probably the next step:


Disconnect and move the Anthem close enough to your display that you can run a good quality "high speed" 6 foot HDMI cable from the Anthem to the display. Not shorter. 6 foot (2 meters) is the sweet spot length for HDMI cables. Also move you Cable TV box to the same location and cable it to the Anthem using another, good quality, "high speed" 6 foot cable. Again, not shorter. To do this you will need power outlets, and you'll also need to run a long enough cable TV feed wire so that your cable box has signal. You don't need to wire up the other sources or your speaker outputs.


Now check your method of switching between a NONE source and the cable box. Do you still get the Shocking Pink video? If not, the culprit is likely your prior HDMI cabling.


If you DO, then the NEXT step is to Save User Settings (so you can recover if this doesn't work), Reset Factory Defaults, and then MANUALLY re-enter just enough of your setup configuration to try the test again. You will need your Video Output configuration and the two Source definitions (cable TV and FM/AM). Do you still get the Shocking Pink video? If NOT, the culprit may be that your Setup or Video Source Adjust menu settings are corrupted. Which means the cure is to continue from this Reset state and manually re-enter the rest of your settings.


I think you are going to discover the problem is your HDMI cabling. HDMI cables carry both high and low bandwidth signals. The high bandwidth signals carry the program content, and the low bandwidth signals are involved in the handshake. It is quite possible for an HDMI cable to handle the high bandwidth stuff just peachy but still screw up the low bandwidth stuff -- meaning you get HDMI handshake problems or copy protection check failures.


If your 20 foot cable run is using adapters, wall plates, or daisy chained cables, those alone could be the cause of all this grief. Now why would it NOT fail when switching from a different HDMI input Source? Because the handshake timing is different.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22294776
> 
> 
> I would like to relay my thanks and appreciation to Shayne, Stew and Bob for attempting to duplicate my pink haze problem i'm having. My setup is very similar to yours Bob, in that, i have YCbCr 4:4:4 from my Moxi DVR and convert to 1080p / RGB into my TV. I have attached my setup screen for my cable DVR. Is there a problem i'm missing? I tried 8/10/12-bit depths and problem still exists.
> 
> It seems a wrong colorspace is returned when i perform the switching between analog inputs or when scaler is set to None for any input.
> 
> I have a 20ft HDMi cable to the TV.]



David


Why not use the following as a work-a-round. I have some of my analog connections set to an HDMI input as some of my sources for audio have metadata for the music to display.

So, try setting your analog input source to an unused HDMI input instead of NONE and see if it solves the dilemma


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22293515
> 
> *OK, things are moving on this DTS-HD MA 7.1 Bitstream decoding issue.*
> 
> The latest conjecture is: It is working correctly!
> 
> The D2v does a fancier form of DTS decoding which takes into account meta-data in the Bitstream for where the speakers were placed when the mix was created. This is an added complexity in the DTS data that most decoders simply ignore. *In theory it would be paired with a user specification of where the speakers are placed in the home theater (i.e., angle around the center seat to point to each speaker). In practice the D2v uses default, standard locations for the home theater speakers.* If the disc contents say the mix's speakers are at a different angle then the presumed, default, home theater speaker locations, then the decoder puts some audio into the home speakers on either side of the specified mix speaker locations.
> *Anthem has now confirmed that the DTS-HD MA 7.1 track on AIX includes meta-data saying the side surround speakers are at a 90 degree angle instead of the default 110 degree angle used by the decoder for the home speaker Side Surrounds.* Thus it is "correct" for this style of decoder to steer some of the audio to the front speaker on the same side.


Therein lies the problem. Actually two of them. a) the default for 7.1 content creation is and always has been 90 deg. This 110 deg variant is a rogue. Therefore the default for home speaker setup is 90 deg, and the AV decoder should also default to 90.


The other problem is having the decoder apply remapping when the end user has no means to inform the processor where the speakers are positioned. Thus the "fancy" remapping is pointless and should be deactivated. Short of that, defaulting to 90 will mitigate the remapping issue for all but occasional oddball 7.1 content. This is why I stated the error was not inside the HDMA decoder chip (which is merely doing what it was told), but in how the Anthem executive code was informing the processor to behave.


> Quote:
> I had thought for some time that there might be an error in the home speaker placement defaults Anthem was using during its DTS decode. It appears what is ACTUALLY happening is that the test track on the AIX disc is encoded using different side surround locations than "normal".


You were correct the first time. The AIX disc is correct. The standard for 7.1 sides is 90 deg. No one even advocates 110, so why it is in there remains a mystery.


> Quote:
> To the best of my knowledge, nobody ever implemented the other half of DTS's grand scheme here -- i.e, adding a UI for the user to specify the actual home speaker angles. So really, people probably shouldn't be authoring the discs using odd mix speaker positioning, but you know how that goes. Give people toys to play with, and they will play.


Exactly!


> Quote:
> Anyway, I think we are getting closer to a correct understanding of what's going on, and the question is what to do about it.
> 
> 
> One solution would be to turn off the mix steering function in the DTS decoding in the D2v. That would instantly give the same results as the Blu-ray players are producing. However that discards the value of the mix steering type of decoding in real content where it may very well be working just fine.


Remapping has no proven benefit except to attempt to fix poorly mastered software or poorly arranged speakers. That's a waste of effort IMHO. Turning it off is the not only the simple solution, it is 100% safe and effective.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Roger is that 90 degree side position for 7.1 speakers also true for Dolby TrueHD tracks?


I thought TrueHD recommended 110 for the Sides (for both 5.1 and 7.1 speakers).

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

DMUSOKE,

if this helps, I am using a D2 with the Kuro 151. No similar problems.

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau

On the 7.1 DTS-HD MA decoding/mixing stuff, Nick tells me they are revisiting whether a design change is appropriate here, which is good, but for now they are not going to rush in any change as the current stuff is doing what they designed it to do. I.e., it's not a bug, it's a feature!


By the way, the 7.1 DTS-HD MA decoding in these products has apparently worked this way from the day dot. Only the folks here at AVS have been canny enough to even raise the issue whether the design of this stuff ought to be changed, i.e., is there a BETTER way to do it given what's going on in real home theater installations (recommendations notwithstanding), the nature of the strangeness studios insist on putting on their discs, and the half implemented nature of DTS's exciting-in-its-primitive-splendor complexity here.


Personally, I didn't notice it until I was doing the detailed rechecks of everything as part of the D2v/3D beta hardware testing! I think Macca gets kudos for spotting it first, quite some time back.


It's clear to me that Anthem has had to make some design choices based on the reality on the ground for DTS these days. It's NOT clear to me that a different approach is actually better yet.


I'm satisfied they'll update their survey data on this and see if an adjustment is a good idea.


For now, my recommendation is to select between LPCM and Bitstream input as a matter of personal preference.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22295896
> 
> 
> DMUSOKE,
> 
> if this helps, I am using a D2 with the Kuro 151. No similar problems.
> 
> TJG



Thx TJ ...Its really helps and what a relief to know the D2 plys well with the Kuro.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22294862
> 
> 
> David
> 
> Why not use the following as a work-a-round. I have some of my analog connections set to an HDMI input as some of my sources for audio have metadata for the music to display.
> 
> So, try setting your analog input source to an unused HDMI input instead of NONE and see if it solves the dilemma










Actually Stew, thats how i have it now but i'm going crazy to find the root cause of all these problems i'm having. I will do what Bob suggested above for its driving me nuts to get to the bottom of all these problems.


- David


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22294831
> 
> 
> I realize this is a painful suggestion, but since you've tried just about everything else this is probably the next step:
> 
> Disconnect and move the Anthem close enough to your display that you can run a good quality "high speed" 6 foot HDMI cable from the Anthem to the display. Not shorter. 6 foot (2 meters) is the sweet spot length for HDMI cables. Also move you Cable TV box to the same location and cable it to the Anthem using another, good quality, "high speed" 6 foot cable. Again, not shorter. To do this you will need power outlets, and you'll also need to run a long enough cable TV feed wire so that your cable box has signal. You don't need to wire up the other sources or your speaker outputs.
> 
> Now check your method of switching between a NONE source and the cable box. Do you still get the Shocking Pink video? If not, the culprit is likely your prior HDMI cabling.
> 
> If you DO, then the NEXT step is to Save User Settings (so you can recover if this doesn't work), Reset Factory Defaults, and then MANUALLY re-enter just enough of your setup configuration to try the test again. You will need your Video Output configuration and the two Source definitions (cable TV and FM/AM). Do you still get the Shocking Pink video? If NOT, the culprit may be that your Setup or Video Source Adjust menu settings are corrupted. Which means the cure is to continue from this Reset state and manually re-enter the rest of your settings.
> 
> I think you are going to discover the problem is your HDMI cabling. HDMI cables carry both high and low bandwidth signals. The high bandwidth signals carry the program content, and the low bandwidth signals are involved in the handshake. It is quite possible for an HDMI cable to handle the high bandwidth stuff just peachy but still screw up the low bandwidth stuff -- meaning you get HDMI handshake problems or copy protection check failures.
> 
> If your 20 foot cable run is using adapters, wall plates, or daisy chained cables, those alone could be the cause of all this grief. Now why would it NOT fail when switching from a different HDMI input Source? Because the handshake timing is different.
> 
> --Bob



Actually Bob, i'm determined enough to go nuclear and do what you've suggested above. I just placed my system in a rack on wheels so it will be easier to move it closer to the TV and do the tests as suggested above ...


Thx for the hints!

- David


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22295772
> 
> 
> ^ Roger is that 90 degree side position for 7.1 speakers also true for Dolby TrueHD tracks?
> 
> I thought TrueHD recommended 110 for the Sides (for both 5.1 and 7.1 speakers).
> 
> --Bob


TrueHD has no knowledge of speaker positions -- doesn't care. Dolby makes recommendations as to where to put speakers in a home, and they include "wedge" zones for every speaker. *For example* . Notice that side surrounds are shown at 90-110 deg. The idea was to show tolerance for people who had build their 5.1 rooms with inwall surrounds, then upgraded to 7.1, would not feel disenfranchised and pressured to yank them out of the wall and move them 2' forward. But given a clean sheet, 90 is preferred.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22296278
> 
> 
> TrueHD has no knowledge of speaker positions -- doesn't care. Dolby makes recommendations as to where to put speakers in a home, and they include "wedge" zones for every speaker. *For example* . Notice that side surrounds are shown at 90-110 deg. The idea was to show tolerance for people who had build their 5.1 rooms with inwall surrounds, then upgraded to 7.1, would not feel disenfranchised and pressured to yank them out of the wall and move them 2' forward. But given a clean sheet, 90 is preferred.




How do they measure the 90 deg and 110 degs ?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22296472
> 
> 
> How do they measure the 90 deg and 110 degs ?



From the centerspeaker


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22296472
> 
> 
> How do they measure the 90 deg and 110 degs ?


Seems straightforward to me: Directly in front is 0 degrees, then do simple trig to get the degrees (arcsin of lateral distance to surround divided by distance to surround).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22296278
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22295772
> 
> 
> ^ Roger is that 90 degree side position for 7.1 speakers also true for Dolby TrueHD tracks?
> 
> I thought TrueHD recommended 110 for the Sides (for both 5.1 and 7.1 speakers).
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> TrueHD has no knowledge of speaker positions -- doesn't care. Dolby makes recommendations as to where to put speakers in a home, and they include "wedge" zones for every speaker. *For example* . Notice that side surrounds are shown at 90-110 deg. The idea was to show tolerance for people who had build their 5.1 rooms with inwall surrounds, then upgraded to 7.1, would not feel disenfranchised and pressured to yank them out of the wall and move them 2' forward. But given a clean sheet, 90 is preferred.
Click to expand...


Got it. Thanks! Yes I knew that it doesn't matter to the Dolby decode, but obviously folks aren't going to move their speakers according to whether they are playing a Dolby or DTS track.


I suppose the remaining piece of information Anthem needs to gather is whether installers are more commonly using 90 or 110 (despite the recommendations) for 7.1. I'm sure Anthem has their own sources of such market intelligence, but do you know of any existing, published surveys on such stuff? I.e., what people are ACTUALLY doing in 7.1 installations? (This of course assumes Anthem leaves the mix steering in place for DTS-HD MA. If not, this is all moot.)


For example, I just spoke to my OPPO contacts, and it is their impression that 110 is the way to go for 7.1. Such fun!









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22296472
> 
> 
> How do they measure the 90 deg and 110 degs ?



It's the position angle (to either side) around the center seating location where 0 degrees is to the center of the screen. 90 degrees is directly left or right of the center seating location. 110 degrees is mostly to the side but also a bit behind the center seating location. (The distance from center seating to the speaker doesn't come into this. This is just the position angle.)


This speaker angle stuff is a world of confusion, particularly if you are trying to use the same speaker positions for Movies AND TV AND Music!


If you followed ALL the recommendations you'd need to get up and physically reposition your speakers -- and then also re-Upload the matching ARC configuration -- for each new content you play....









--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22296885
> 
> 
> It's the position angle (to either side) around the center seating location where 0 degrees is to the center of the screen. 90 degrees is directly left or right of the center seating location. 110 degrees is mostly to the side but also a bit behind the center seating location. (The distance from center seating to the speaker doesn't come in to this. This is just the position angle.)
> 
> This speaker angle stuff is a world of confusion, particularly if you are trying to use the same speaker positions for Movies AND TV AND Music!
> 
> If you followed ALL the recommendations you'd need to get up and physically reposition your speakers -- and then also re-Upload the matching ARC configuration -- for each new content you play....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



If using dipoles for side and back, I think you said it would not be noticeable. I certainly don't notice anything so I guess you're right Bob.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22296965
> 
> 
> If using dipoles for side and back, I think you said it would not be noticeable. I certainly don't notice anything so I guess you're right Bob.
> 
> John



You are probably too enraptured by your subwoofer response to notice anything else!









--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22296871
> 
> 
> Yes I knew that it doesn't matter to the Dolby decode, but obviously folks aren't going to move their speakers according to whether they are playing a Dolby or DTS track.


That's why everybody has agreed upon the same nominal setup for 7.1: 0/30/90/150 deg. (See diagram) This includes Dolby, DTS, THX, and even Gary Reber in case anyone is interested. Some may cite Audyssey DSX diagrams 's 110 deg sides, but since DSX is not about optimizing artistic intent, we need not worry about that further.


> Quote:
> I suppose the remaining piece of information Anthem needs to gather is whether installers are more commonly using 90 or 110 (despite the recommendations) for 7.1. I'm sure Anthem has their own sources of such market intelligence, but do you know of any existing, published surveys on such stuff? I.e., what people are ACTUALLY doing in 7.1 installations?


What random people do and what constitutes a properly configured home theater are not necessarily the same thing. Often, compromises have to be made.


If you look at p.304 of the Toole book "Sound Reproduction" he summarizes the various standards and even makes a case for sides slightly forward of the listening position, say 80-deg instead of 90, in a 7.1 setup. I think that would actually be useful, too.


Remember where the 110 position came from. The ITU was attempting to define a standard speaker setup (and other room conditions) that could be consistently used in laboratories around the world conducting listening tests on multichannel audio. This would make it possible to compare results validly. For the surrounds they wanted to be able to convey both a sense of spatial envelopment and rearward directional cues. Unfortunately it is not possible to do both optimally from one pair of surrounds, so they "split the difference" and found a happy medium at 110 deg. With 7.1, we can satisfy each effect with its own set of speakers, so neither pair ought to remain at 110 deg to achieve the optimal benefit of 4 surrounds. Hence 90/150.


> Quote:
> (This of course assumes Anthem leaves the mix steering in place for DTS-HD MA. If not, this is all moot.)


To minimize the imposition of remapping, the decoder ought to be thinking "90" as that is how most content is made. BTW, no matter how 7.1 content is mixed, it sounds better when played on a proper 7.1 system with remapping turned off. No?


> Quote:
> For example, I just spoke to my OPPO contacts, and it is their impression that 110 is the way to go for 7.1. Such fun!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob


Sincerely, with all due respect to Oppo, how does their opinion matter more than anyone else's? Maybe if they made an AVR or something... Or developed surround processing algorithms. Since I helped develop PLIIx, I have some insights into these matters. It is my diagram you see in the Dolby info, with the "wedges." It has remained the same since introduced 10 years ago.


The speaker config perspective figures (p. 68-70 in the BDP-93 manual) show the sides forward of the seating area. The speaker distance diagram, p.71, shows the opposite. No mention of angles is made anywhere. I would not read either as any indication of where to place speakers. And that's as it should be in a BD player manual.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22296885
> 
> 
> This speaker angle stuff is a world of confusion, particularly if you are trying to use the same speaker positions for Movies AND TV AND Music!
> 
> If you followed ALL the recommendations you'd need to get up and physically reposition your speakers -- and then also re-Upload the matching ARC configuration -- for each new content you play....


Movies and TV are the same animal, so there's no distinction there. Music? Is there any need to treat music surrounds any differently than movies/TV? If you have a 5.1 setup, no changes needed. If you have a 7.1 setup, why try to use only 5.1 speakers? Use either stereo or 7.1 and there's never a need to mess with anything. If the source is 5.1, use PLIIx.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22296972
> 
> 
> You are probably too enraptured by your subwoofer response to notice anything else!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



You've got that right

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Roger,

So you don't believe in narrower front speaker spacing for TV and wider for Music? Or narrower rear speaker spacing for Music?










I don't know if Lexicon is still doing it, but at one point they had like 5 or more different speaker layouts suggested, each appropriate for different types of content.


I suppose all of this begs the question, if there's only one proper way to lay out the speakers, why did DTS confuse things with this alternate speaker presentation stuff in the first place? That's a rhetorical question. Obviously they were just trying to add on something, anything, they could use as a point of differentiation. And then the studios glommed on to that as a new toy. Deep sigh....


And by the way, I only mentioned OPPO as an example of street thinking -- not as an authoritative source on this.

--Bob


----------



## uberanalyst

Almost anyone who constructs a dedicated home theater will have at least 2 rows of seating. If so, then it's "geometrically impossible" to simultaneously achieve 90/150 degree surrounds/rears for BOTH the 1st and 2nd rows of seating. Which means it would be very difficult to provide a user interface so that the system could be provided with the appropriate speaker angles -- it won't work with 2 rows of seating.


In our 7.1 theater with surround speakers hidden in columns (see http://www.avsforum.com/t/1413336/swizzle-stick-theater ), the side speakers are located between the 2 seating rows (with the rear surrounds along the back wall). The result is that the side surround speakers are located at greater than 90 degrees from front row listeners, but located at less than 90 degrees for the people seated in the rear row. Similarly the rear speaker spread differs between front and rear seating rows.


And then to further complicate things all of our surrounds are dipoles mounted high up on the walls -- which purposely makes it harder to discern where sounds are coming from.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22297070
> 
> 
> Roger,
> 
> So you don't believe in narrower front speaker spacing for TV and wider for Music? Or narrower rear speaker spacing for Music?


Noop! In fact, I have my rears at the 135 deg locations for better envelopment in the front row MLP, but amazingly it still works great in the rear row. I found that 150 imaged too narrow.










> Quote:
> I don't know if Lexicon is still doing it, but at one point they had like 5 or more different speaker layouts suggested, each appropriate for different types of content.


Yes, engineers can sometimes carry things to too many decimal points.










> Quote:
> I suppose all of this begs the question, if there's only one proper way to lay out the speakers, why did DTS confuse things with this alternate speaker presentation stuff in the first place? That's a rhetorical question.


I have never heard the reason. I thought that is was to accommodate the 7.1 remixes being done at MiCasa, as Brant leaves the side speakers in the 5.1 position and just switches on the rears, but I read somewhere that he does not intend the mixes to be played that way. Do Lionsgate titles flag as 90 or 110?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22294831
> 
> 
> I realize this is a painful suggestion, but since you've tried just about everything else this is probably the next step:
> 
> Disconnect and move the Anthem close enough to your display that you can run a good quality "high speed" 6 foot HDMI cable from the Anthem to the display. Not shorter. 6 foot (2 meters) is the sweet spot length for HDMI cables. Also move you Cable TV box to the same location and cable it to the Anthem using another, good quality, "high speed" 6 foot cable. Again, not shorter. To do this you will need power outlets, and you'll also need to run a long enough cable TV feed wire so that your cable box has signal. You don't need to wire up the other sources or your speaker outputs.
> 
> Now check your method of switching between a NONE source and the cable box. Do you still get the Shocking Pink video? If not, the culprit is likely your prior HDMI cabling.
> 
> If you DO, then the NEXT step is to Save User Settings (so you can recover if this doesn't work), Reset Factory Defaults, and then MANUALLY re-enter just enough of your setup configuration to try the test again. You will need your Video Output configuration and the two Source definitions (cable TV and FM/AM). Do you still get the Shocking Pink video? If NOT, the culprit may be that your Setup or Video Source Adjust menu settings are corrupted. Which means the cure is to continue from this Reset state and manually re-enter the rest of your settings.
> 
> I think you are going to discover the problem is your HDMI cabling. HDMI cables carry both high and low bandwidth signals. The high bandwidth signals carry the program content, and the low bandwidth signals are involved in the handshake. It is quite possible for an HDMI cable to handle the high bandwidth stuff just peachy but still screw up the low bandwidth stuff -- meaning you get HDMI handshake problems or copy protection check failures.
> 
> If your 20 foot cable run is using adapters, wall plates, or daisy chained cables, those alone could be the cause of all this grief. Now why would it NOT fail when switching from a different HDMI input Source? Because the handshake timing is different.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22296161
> 
> 
> Actually Bob, i'm determined enough to go nuclear and do what you've suggested above. I just placed my system in a rack on wheels so it will be easier to move it closer to the TV and do the tests as suggested above ...
> 
> Thx for the hints!
> 
> - David



OK ...so i managed to move things around and moved my rack close to the TV as possible and used another HDMI 1.3 cable, 6 ft in length(from Monoprice i believe) which i connected directly from the D2v output to the TV, bypassing my cable savers and cable extensions. Bummer, i still received the pink haze switching between HDMI 1 and the FM/AM input.


I then performed another test. I switched between my Oppo95(HDMI 2) and the FM/AM input several times. No pink haze and all was good which made me think that it was either HDMI 1 itself that was bad or the source on HDMI 1 was bad. I switched sources between HDMI 1 and 2. I then switched several times between HDMI 2 and the AM/FM input. The pink haze occured. It had moved to HDMI 2 this time!


This led me to the cuplrit being the source itself which is my Moxie DVR HD cable box. Unfortunately, support for the Moxi box is very spotty ever since they were bought out by Arris. So i'm left with 2 options...Change all "Scaler to None" to "Scaler= HDMIx" , where x= 1 to 8. Or use the Component video output from my cable box into the D2v(which works btw with no pink haze). Trying to assess the difference between the component and hdmi input i've been using viewing broadcast TV from Time Warner Cable. Tough to tell so far but all is still preliminary...


Thanks all for help provided so far. It seems i have a finicky cable box.


Thanks again,

- David


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22297591
> 
> 
> OK ...so i managed to move things around and moved my rack close to the TV as possible and used another HDMI 1.3 cable, 6 ft in length(from Monoprice i believe) which i connected directly from the D2v output to the TV, bypassing my cable savers and cable extensions. Bummer, i still received the pink haze switching between HDMI 1 and the FM/AM input.
> 
> I then performed another test. I switched between my Oppo95(HDMI 2) and the FM/AM input several times. No pink haze and all was good which made me think that it was either HDMI 1 itself that was bad or the source on HDMI 1 was bad. I switched sources between HDMI 1 and 2. I then switched several times between HDMI 2 and the AM/FM input. The pink haze occured. It had moved to HDMI 2 this time!
> 
> This led me to the cuplrit being the source itself which is my Moxie DVR HD cable box. Unfortunately, support for the Moxi box is very spotty ever since they were bought out by Arris. So i'm left with 2 options...Change all "Scaler to None" to "Scaler= HDMIx" , where x= 1 to 8. Or use the Component video output from my cable box into the D2v(which works btw with no pink haze). Trying to assess the difference between the component and hdmi input i've been using viewing broadcast TV from Time Warner Cable. Tough to tell so far but all is still preliminary...
> 
> Thanks all for help provided so far. It seems i have a finicky cable box.
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> - David



Cable boxes are notorious for HDMI issues as Bob has mentioned on many occasions. Welcome to the club

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I would run, not walk, to get your Component cables (and optical audio) attached. Life is too short to fight with a cable TV box's shoddy HDMI implementation.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22297013



Roger


Looking at your diagram would you recommend the rear speakers be angled in towards the center seating position like in your graphic ?


And


If the surround side speakers were a monopole speaker like below how would this effect the layout and sound ?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22297619
> 
> 
> Cable boxes are notorious for HDMI issues as Bob has mentioned on many occasions. Welcome to the club
> 
> John


Yeah, bummer but why me?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22297636
> 
> 
> I would run, not walk, to get your Component cables (and optical audio) attached. Life is too short to fight with a cable TV box's shoddy HDMI implementation.
> 
> --Bob



Will do so indeed... Have you ever managed to do a comparison between an HDMI and Component video feed from a cable box? Do i now have to 'tune' the VideoADC parameters used for analog video as displayed in the video display menu? Are component video cables rated ( or certified) in any way like HDMI ones?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22297662
> 
> 
> Roger
> 
> Looking at your diagram would you recommend the rear speakers be angled in towards the center seating position like in your graphic ?


Yes. I did so in my theater, where I built triangular enclosures which house in-wall speakers. The attached diagram shows one flavor of the concept, aiming the surrounds toward the furthest seat. In my room I chose to aim all the surrounds to the MLP.

 


> Quote:
> If the surround side speakers were a monopole speaker like below how would this effect the layout and sound ?


I would not expect any difference, as I assume the properties (on- and off-axis response, and directivity) are much the same as a conventional 3-way monopole speaker.


----------



## a1usedcomp

Is anyone using a Harmony 1100 with the D2 ? I am having an issue with the volume , it jumps 3db at a time sometimes more .


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *a1usedcomp*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22299063
> 
> 
> Is anyone using a Harmony 1100 with the D2 ? I am having an issue with the volume , it jumps 3db at a time sometimes more .


If you mean that a single press and release of the Volume button sometimes does a multi-step volume jump, then what you need to do is reduce the "key repeat count" to 0 in the Harmony's device configuration for the Anthem. Look in Troubleshooting for "Commands happen more than once".


Many devices will reject a command unless they receive it more than once. So by default the Harmony will send commands more than once. Thus each button press for Volume Up/Down is sending more than one of those.


If you mean that pressing Volume several times rapidly, or pressing and holding it, causes Volume to change at a more rapid rate, that's the way the Anthem is designed. Try it with the original remote. If you press Volume several times rapidly or press and hold, the Volume will first change by half dB steps and then it will start changing more rapidly under the assumption you are trying to make a bigger change.

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

Speaking of HDMI issues, I wanted report that I have used the new Monoprice 65 feet HDMI cable with Redmere between my D2V and my JVC projector with success. It is passing a 1080p60 12 bit signal without artifacts.


----------



## a1usedcomp

Thanks again Bob works perfect set at 0


----------



## a1usedcomp

Did you buy the Ultra Slim RedMere ? I was thinking of getting some


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *a1usedcomp*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22299316
> 
> 
> Did you buy the Ultra Slim RedMere ? I was thinking of getting some



That's the one. Seems to work as advertised, and I bought the longest length they sell currently.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22297636
> 
> 
> I would run, not walk, to get your Component cables (and optical audio) attached. Life is too short to fight with a cable TV box's shoddy HDMI implementation.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22297882
> 
> 
> Yeah, bummer but why me?
> 
> Will do so indeed... Have you ever managed to do a comparison between an HDMI and Component video feed from a cable box? Do i now have to 'tune' the VideoADC parameters used for analog video as displayed in the video display menu? Are component video cables rated ( or certified) in any way like HDMI ones?



Bob?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It's highly unlikely you'll need to adjust the Video ADC settings when using Component. Those tend to be more useful when dealing with S-video input from simple devices.


Component cables need to be shielded, and should be kept as short as practical given the placement of the equipment. They are not rated in the way that HDMI cables are rated. You don't need exotic Component cables. See what Blue Jeans and Monoprice are offering if you don't already have a set of decent cables in your drawer.


I wouldn't recommend using Component for connecting a Blu-ray player, but given the actual content resolution on Cable HDTV Component will work just fine. I used Component for quite some time with a prior Comcast cable box that had a faulty HDMI implementation. I've also checked Component 1080i input from my OPPO 93 for testing purposes. And I still have my current Comcast box hooked up both ways so I can check that its HDMI really is working correctly.


Of course the bottom line is that anything that works is better than anything that doesn't work, and since HDMI is faulty from your Cable box, Component is definitely the way to go. Odds are excellent the problems in the cable TV content quality will swamp anything the Component hookup itself might be causing.

--Bob


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37980#post_22297591
> 
> 
> OK ...so i managed to move things around and moved my rack close to the TV as possible and used another HDMI 1.3 cable, 6 ft in length(from Monoprice i believe) which i connected directly from the D2v output to the TV, bypassing my cable savers and cable extensions. Bummer, i still received the pink haze switching between HDMI 1 and the FM/AM input.
> 
> I then performed another test. I switched between my Oppo95(HDMI 2) and the FM/AM input several times. No pink haze and all was good which made me think that it was either HDMI 1 itself that was bad or the source on HDMI 1 was bad. I switched sources between HDMI 1 and 2. I then switched several times between HDMI 2 and the AM/FM input. The pink haze occured. It had moved to HDMI 2 this time!
> 
> This led me to the cuplrit being the source itself which is my Moxie DVR HD cable box. Unfortunately, support for the Moxi box is very spotty ever since they were bought out by Arris. So i'm left with 2 options...Change all "Scaler to None" to "Scaler= HDMIx" , where x= 1 to 8. Or use the Component video output from my cable box into the D2v(which works btw with no pink haze). Trying to assess the difference between the component and hdmi input i've been using viewing broadcast TV from Time Warner Cable. Tough to tell so far but all is still preliminary...
> 
> Thanks all for help provided so far. It seems i have a finicky cable box.
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> - David



Cables r cheap and the back or the box pretty resilient I would ditch the port savers.


and mine

 


wouldn’t care to run component ever. There is a work around to the purple haze correct?


I have a couple of questions.


1) Is there any way of getting 2.1 to zone 2. Even at copy would be good, could I run sub 2 out to zone 2. Solution when sat box is not on zone 1 with a vol issue I could control using the back of the sub.


2) If I drive zone 1 music 2.1 would a separate arc show improvements over 5.1 movie.


3) Will anthem ever put a check box on don’t show this splash screen again and let us open arc manually by default.


Regards


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22300998
> 
> 
> I have a couple of questions.
> 
> 
> 1) Is there any way of getting 2.1 to zone 2. Even at copy would be good, could I run sub 2 out to zone 2. Solution when sat box is not on zone 1 with a vol issue I could control using the back of the sub.
> 
> 
> 2) If I drive zone 1 music 2.1 would a separate arc show improvements over 5.1 movie.
> 
> 
> 3) Will anthem ever put a check box on don’t show this splash screen again and let us open arc manually by default.
> 
> 
> Regards



1) Zone 2 is stereo only. If you are Copying Main to Zone 2 (so that both are playing the same content), then you'll have Sub output on the unused Sub jack, but the result if you wire that to your Zone 2 location will be unsatisfactory because the Sub output is using the ARC solution for the Main room, and bass steering is not happening on the L/R audio outputs for Zone 2. So the short answer is NO.


2) Calculating a separate Movie and Music ARC solution is certainly worth a try. If there is nothing changing in the room itself between using it for movies and music you can do this with a single Measurement pass for Movies -- your existing ARC solution for example -- and then going into Targets in ARC and in the Music column, uncheck Same as Movie. Then for the speakers you DON'T want to use, put an "n" -- for "no speaker" -- in the "cutoff" Targets value for each. Accept those adjusted Targets, re-Calculate, and re-Upload. Data from those speakers will not be considered as ARC builds the Music solution. Upload that and set a Source to use Base Management Music. Now, depending on your room and speakers -- i.e., depending on how much ARC has to adjust things when those other speakers are included -- doing this may or may not produce an audibly different result of just using your existing 5.1 Movie solution but setting the Audio Mode to STEREO when playing your stereo music content. I.e., press the Mode button once then Up/Down arrow to select Stereo. 2.0 input played using Stereo audio mode while using a 5.1 ARC solution will only put output on 2.1 speakers, which is what you desire. The difference is that the 5.1 solution was calculated considering the needs of the Center and Surround speakers, which may be different than if you Calculate a separate Music solution with Center and the Surrounds set to No Speaker. If you like the result of using your 5.1 solution but played in Stereo audio mode, you can set up a Source where Setup > Mode Presets for that Source automatically selects Stereo audio mode as the default each time you play 2.0 content on that Source.


3) Double-click on any existing ARC results file and the ARC application will open immediately in the chart view for that file -- i.e., skipping the initial selection screen.

--Bob


----------



## a1usedcomp

I have my Oppo 93 set to 1080p output 1080/24 auto the D2 display reads 1080p but my TV shows 720x480 60


if I go into the D2 under video settings and choose 1024/768 60 it says mode cant be supported .


If I pick 1920/1024 60 it will work if I leave it to auto I only get 720x480 on tv even is D2 shows 1080p



What would be my best setting ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If you have an HDTV start with 1920x1080i/60 as that's the standard resolution for HDTV broadcasts, and any HDTV should be able to accept that.


Your TV may also accept 1920x1080p/60.


If you have an older HDTV that has a native pixel matrix of 720p or 768p then there may be a better choice but the 1080i or 1080p choices should be your starting point for an HDTV while you are getting familiar with how things work.


The Manual for your TV should tell you what resolutions it will accept as input, and from that, or marketing material, or the owner's thread for your TV here on AVS you should be able to find out what the native pixel matrix of the TV is. Most new, better quality HDTV sets will be 1920x1080p for their native matrix.


Get the /60 stuff working first before you worry about how to get /24 video working.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" Firmware on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page.*


Anthem has placed TWO new firmware versions on their password protected download page.


V3.05 is identical to V3.04b except for the version number. It is a "release candidate", and may become the next "official" release shortly, specifically for people who are about to receive their 3D upgrade kits and have to have a firmware version to complete that install.


V3.05a is an "experimental" version with DTS speaker position remapping disabled. See the discussion in recent posts. If you want to have a go at this firmware be aware of a couple things:


1) Nick tells me this V3.05a build is hot off the presses. It has not received the normal level of internal testing that typically happens BEFORE firmware appears on the password protected page. This means it might possibly fail in very basic ways due to some simple mistake in building it -- mistakes which normally would have been caught before we'd ever get to see it. Thus the usual caveat is even more important. "Test" firmware is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises. Do not install "test" firmware unless you are OK with that.


2) A change like this may have unintended side effects in the Bitstream decoding. So don't assume that ONLY the remapping is affected. Keep a sharp eye out for other aspects of decoding that might have gotten broken by this experimental change.

--Bob


----------



## a1usedcomp

Sorry Typo 1920x1080p 60 works


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22300162
> 
> 
> ^ It's highly unlikely you'll need to adjust the Video ADC settings when using Component. Those tend to be more useful when dealing with S-video input from simple devices.
> 
> Component cables need to be shielded, and should be kept as short as practical given the placement of the equipment. They are not rated in the way that HDMI cables are rated. You don't need exotic Component cables. See what Blue Jeans and Monoprice are offering if you don't already have a set of decent cables in your drawer.
> 
> I wouldn't recommend using Component for connecting a Blu-ray player, but given the actual content resolution on Cable HDTV Component will work just fine. I used Component for quite some time with a prior Comcast cable box that had a faulty HDMI implementation. I've also checked Component 1080i input from my OPPO 93 for testing purposes. And I still have my current Comcast box hooked up both ways so I can check that its HDMI really is working correctly.
> 
> Of course the bottom line is that anything that works is better than anything that doesn't work, and since HDMI is faulty from your Cable box, Component is definitely the way to go. Odds are excellent the problems in the cable TV content quality will swamp anything the Component hookup itself might be causing.
> 
> --Bob



Thx Bob!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22299233
> 
> 
> Speaking of HDMI issues, I wanted report that I have used the new Monoprice 65 feet HDMI cable with Redmere between my D2V and my JVC projector with success. It is passing a 1080p60 12 bit signal without artifacts.



BTW ... what would these artifacts look like?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22300998
> 
> 
> Cables r cheap and the back or the box pretty resilient I would ditch the port savers.
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Regards



I got the port savers because people were accidently destroying the back end input connectors whenever they would attempt to insert HDMI cables at skewed angles in low light conditions.


----------



## wingnut4772

In what instance would the 1080p 24 setting be best? I have a Kuro but I set the video to 1080p 60 for all except my Oppo input which I've set to Through. Mostly because I really have no idea what I'm doing. Lol.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22302806
> 
> 
> In what instance would the 1080p 24 setting be best? I have a Kuro but I set the video to 1080p 60 for all except my Oppo input which I've set to Through. Mostly because I really have no idea what I'm doing. Lol.



Thats exactly how i've set my system as well. The Kuro upconverts the 24Hz from the Oppo 95 to 72Hz, otherwise all else is /60p.


----------



## gerard1meehan

Remote options



I was curious what other members of this forum used for controlling their D2v’s and other equipment in their home theaters. I have been investigating systems like Crestron, Control 4 , Harmony, and others. I like the idea of utilizing a tablet as I also use my tablet for my Sonos system.


Just curious what other people utilize and what they like and do not like about it


Thanks

G


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22302391
> 
> 
> BTW ... what would these artifacts look like?



I was getting blue/green sparkles


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Were you playing 70s music?









--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22303664
> 
> 
> Remote options
> 
> I was curious what other members of this forum used for controlling their D2v’s and other equipment in their home theaters. I have been investigating systems like Crestron, Control 4 , Harmony, and others. I like the idea of utilizing a tablet as I also use my tablet for my Sonos system.
> 
> Just curious what other people utilize and what they like and do not like about it
> 
> Thanks
> 
> G



I use a Harmony 900 and it works great. My only complaint is I can't figure out how to change surround formats on the fly.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Experimental" Firmware V3.05a Update*


Nick tells me they did find some issues in internal testing with V3.05a, but the fixes have already been found. They are now considering putting up an alternate "release candidate" with the intention to choose between that one and V3.05 to become "the real thing". Stay tuned.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22303737
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22303664
> 
> 
> Remote options
> 
> I was curious what other members of this forum used for controlling their D2v’s and other equipment in their home theaters. I have been investigating systems like Crestron, Control 4 , Harmony, and others. I like the idea of utilizing a tablet as I also use my tablet for my Sonos system.
> 
> Just curious what other people utilize and what they like and do not like about it
> 
> Thanks
> 
> G
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Harmony 900 and it works great. My only complaint is I can't figure out how to change surround formats on the fly.
Click to expand...


I've used Harmony for years, and loved the ease of user programmability, but recently their Support has taken the dreadful step of charging $30 per incident after the first 90 days. Now keep in mind that your configuration is on their servers and the only way to use it is via software whose versioning they control.


It has and does happen that they will make software changes that BREAK your working configuration, and so the next time you update the remote with some minor change things are now broken. In the past they offered free configuration support for the life of the product, and so you could get such things fixed. Basically a minor nuisance.


Now you have to pay per incident even when it was their change, which you had no choice but to use, which broke things.


Deep sigh....


To select the Surround Mode you need the Mode button and Up/Down Arrow. These are in the database.


To go to a SPECIFIC Mode directly, you need to send a 3-button command. See Appendix A in the Manual.


The 3-Button commands are not in the database for this, but Harmony Support can add them to your configuration.


For a fee.....

--Bob


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22303858
> 
> 
> I've used Harmony for years, and loved the ease of user programmability, but recently their Support has taken the dreadful step of charging $30 per incident after the first 90 days. Now keep in mind that your configuration is on their servers and the only way to use it is via software whose versioning they control.
> 
> It has and does happen that they will make software changes that BREAK your working configuration, and so the next time you update the remote with some minor change things are now broken. In the past they offered free configuration support for the life of the product, and so you could get such things fixed. Basically a minor nuisance.
> 
> Now you have to pay per incident even when it was their change, which you had no choice but to use, which broke things.
> 
> Deep sigh....
> 
> To select the Surround Mode you need the Mode button and Up/Down Arrow. These are in the database.
> 
> To go to a SPECIFIC Mode directly, you need to send a 3-button command. See Appendix A in the Manual.
> 
> The 3-Button commands are not in the database for this, but Harmony Support can add them to your configuration.
> 
> For a fee.....
> 
> --Bob



So the Harmony does not give you the option to self program buttons or your remote?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22303949
> 
> 
> So the Harmony does not give you the option to self program buttons or your remote?



Sure, it can "Learn" single buttons that aren't in the database, but you need Harmony support to:


1) Add a 3-button sequence as a single button in your configuration.


2) Code a button to auto-repeat if it is pressed and held -- the way Volume Up/Down do by default.


3) Code a button to send a "long command" signal when pressed and held instead of just one command or an auto-repeat multiple command.


For example, you want "7" to send a long command when pressed and held so you can access the Video Source Adjust menu. "0", "8", "Mode", and "Setup" also need this. The Arrow buttons need to send multiple commands.


If the database entries are wrong, their support has to fix it.


My most recent experience is that some change THEY made in their software broke some customizations like this they had previously done for me. And now they want $30 to fix their screw up.

--Bob


----------



## Doozer428




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37920#post_22283559
> 
> 
> That seems like a long time especially since you're not dealing with border issues. I'd call Anthem directly to find out what's up.
> 
> John



Well, I spoke to my dealer and they said the delay is because Anthem cannot reproduce the problem... which is really frustrating because I spent a long time swapping interconnects, speakers, amp channels, user settings vs. factory default, etc. to isolate this to the Center Channel Pre-Outs. So unless a wonkey connection got bounced back into place during shipping, or some weird software thing is occurring, there is no obvious explanation.


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22304018
> 
> 
> Sure, it can "Learn" single buttons that aren't in the database, but you need Harmony support to:
> 
> 1) Add a 3-button sequence as a single button in your configuration.
> 
> 2) Code a button to auto-repeat if it is pressed and held -- the way Volume Up/Down do by default.
> 
> 3) Code a button to send a "long command" signal when pressed and held instead of just one command or an auto-repeat multiple command.
> 
> For example, you want "7" to send a long command when pressed and held so you can access the Video Source Adjust menu. "0", "8", "Mode", and "Setup" also need this. The Arrow buttons need to send multiple commands.
> 
> If the database entries are wrong, their support has to fix it.
> 
> My most recent experience is that some change THEY made in their software broke some customizations like this they had previously done for me. And now they want $30 to fix their screw up.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob,


I will have to dig into the Harmony option a little more. I'd like to find out if anyone is using a Crestron system and how they like it too.


G


----------



## mkaye

i am an independent Crestron programmer (CAIP), so use a Crestron system

i have coded a lot of commands beyond the AVM20 module i started with, but there are still things i haven't coded or added to my system

with time i could implement every possible function listed in their spreadsheet, but most of us would never need all of it

my point is that a Crestron programmer could implement anything that is documented and hopefully design a reasonable GUI to use them


mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*CAUTION: "Test" Firmware Not Ready for Prime Time Yet!*


If you take a peek in Anthem's password protected download page and see "test" versions NEWER than V3.05, don't bother installing them yet. They need some additional fixes. The "release candidate" V3.05, which is just "test" V3.04b with an "official" version number, is OK to load.


Sometimes getting a firmware release out is like trying to fold a lawn chair. Push on one part and another part pops out....

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22303710
> 
> 
> ^ Were you playing 70s music?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



lol


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22304143
> 
> 
> i am an independent Crestron programmer (CAIP), so use a Crestron system
> 
> i have coded a lot of commands beyond the AVM20 module i started with, but there are still things i haven't coded or added to my system
> 
> with time i could implement every possible function listed in their spreadsheet, but most of us would never need all of it
> 
> my point is that a Crestron programmer could implement anything that is documented and hopefully design a reasonable GUI to use them
> 
> 
> mark



The Crestron remote system, particularly when connected into the Anthem's Serial port, is capable of doing EVERYTHING. The Serial port command set for the Anthems is extensive beyond belief -- see the documentation included in the download for the ARC install kit. WAY more than what you can do with an IR remote. Two directional, too, so your Crestron can read status BACK from the Anthem.


But since the Crestron can do EVERYTHING, it pretty much takes a programmer to make it do ANYTHING.










Folks who do Crestron programming for a living can make it jump through hoops of course. We have a few people here who've programmed their own Crestron setups (e.g., DRHANKZ). The learning curve can be, umm, interesting. There's a whole Forum here at AVS devoted to programmable remotes.

--Bob


----------



## uberanalyst

Has anyone tried one of the new Darbee Darblet video processors with their D2 or AVM50 -- with their older HDMI 1.1 hardware?


The reason I ask is that placing the Darblet between my D2 and JVC DLA-RS1 projector causes HDMI copy protection (HDCP) to act up and shut down the video stream -- regardless of the source signal. I get HDCP warnings generated by my TivoHD, Oppo 93 Blu-Ray player, and occasionally from the D2 itself -- saying that my "TV" doesn't support HDCP.


I've tried multiple long and short HDMI cables, played with different video formats (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4, 4:4:2, and RGB output from the D2), and still get shutdown of the source due to HDCP. As soon as I get rid of the Darblet and put back my original 25-foot HDMI cable to the projector, everything works OK.


Despite the Darblet not working between the D2 and projector, it performs beautifully if placed on a D2 HDMI *input* from either the TivoHD or Oppo player. Everything people have been saying about its performance seems to be true -- it really does add more "pop" to the image with minimal artifacts.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22304208
> 
> *CAUTION: "Test" Firmware Not Ready for Prime Time Yet!*
> 
> If you take a peek in Anthem's password protected download page and see "test" versions NEWER than V3.05, don't bother installing them yet. They need some additional fixes. The "release candidate" V3.05, which is just "test" V3.04b with an "official" version number, is OK to load.
> 
> Sometimes getting a firmware release out is like trying to fold a lawn chair. Push on one part and another part pops out....
> 
> --Bob


Bob, I wonder if they fixed the issue regarding remotes selelcting a source at startup?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Not yet.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve


think Ill hold till they get that fixed as I use it on all my sources etc.  Im assuming you notified them?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Sure. I don't expect anything to happen until after this DTS-HD MA kerfuffle gets resolved one way or the other. I.e., if they need to, V3.05 will become "official" despite having this problem.


The sad thing is, it worked in V3.00, so it's some late breaking change that broke this.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38040#post_22307558
> 
> 
> ^ Sure. I don't expect anything to happen until after this DTS-HD MA kerfuffle gets resolved one way or the other. I.e., if they need to, V3.05 will become "official" despite having this problem.
> 
> The sad thing is, it worked in V3.00, so it's some late breaking change that broke this.
> 
> --Bob


Yes it works fine in 3.00, I can work arround the dts issue for now, but sure want my remote to work on turn on!!   Hope Nick is listening!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Well I'm more pissed off at Logitech/Harmony, as I went in to raise the Power-On delay in my Harmony 880 configuration -- that and only that -- and discovered their exciting in its primitive splendor new remote configuration software FUBARed the D2v configuration for my Harmony 880.


And now the fun loving wags at Harmony "support" want me to pay them $30 to fix their screw up. Just a chuckle a minute, they are!


It's so sad. They used to have some of the best "free" support in the business.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38040#post_22307676
> 
> 
> Well I'm more pissed off at Logitech/Harmony, as I went in to raise the Power-On delay in my Harmony 880 configuration -- that and only that -- and discovered their exciting in its primitive splendor new remote configuration software FUBARed the D2v configuration for my Harmony 880.
> 
> And now the fun loving wags at Harmony "support" want me to pay them $30 to fix their screw up. Just a chuckle a minute, they are!
> 
> It's so sad. They used to have some of the best "free" support in the business.
> 
> --Bob


I could change the delay on mine as well , but that means it has to keep pointed at the Anthem longer, and as it is my wife puts it down to early anyway!   Simple -Anthem please fix this that worked in 3.0 and we will all be happy.   By the way my remote is a NEVO


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38040#post_22307707
> 
> 
> I could change the delay on mine as well , but that means it has to keep pointed at the Anthem longer, and as it is my wife puts it down to early anyway!   Simple -Anthem please fix this that worked in 3.0 and we will all be happy.   By the way my remote is a NEVO



Funny, my wife does the same thing with all my remotes

John


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38010#post_22301325
> 
> 
> 1) Zone 2 is stereo only. If you are Copying Main to Zone 2 (so that both are playing the same content), then you'll have Sub output on the unused Sub jack, but the result if you wire that to your Zone 2 location will be unsatisfactory because the Sub output is using the ARC solution for the Main room, and bass steering is not happening on the L/R audio outputs for Zone 2. So the short answer is NO.
> 
> 2) Calculating a separate Movie and Music ARC solution is certainly worth a try. If there is nothing changing in the room itself between using it for movies and music you can do this with a single Measurement pass for Movies -- your existing ARC solution for example -- and then going into Targets in ARC and in the Music column, uncheck Same as Movie. Then for the speakers you DON'T want to use, put an "n" -- for "no speaker" -- in the "cutoff" Targets value for each. Accept those adjusted Targets, re-Calculate, and re-Upload. Data from those speakers will not be considered as ARC builds the Music solution. Upload that and set a Source to use Base Management Music. Now, depending on your room and speakers -- i.e., depending on how much ARC has to adjust things when those other speakers are included -- doing this may or may not produce an audibly different result of just using your existing 5.1 Movie solution but setting the Audio Mode to STEREO when playing your stereo music content. I.e., press the Mode button once then Up/Down arrow to select Stereo. 2.0 input played using Stereo audio mode while using a 5.1 ARC solution will only put output on 2.1 speakers, which is what you desire. The difference is that the 5.1 solution was calculated considering the needs of the Center and Surround speakers, which may be different than if you Calculate a separate Music solution with Center and the Surrounds set to No Speaker. If you like the result of using your 5.1 solution but played in Stereo audio mode, you can set up a Source where Setup > Mode Presets for that Source automatically selects Stereo audio mode as the default each time you play 2.0 content on that Source.
> 
> 3) Double-click on any existing ARC results file and the ARC application will open immediately in the chart view for that file -- i.e., skipping the initial selection screen.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you very much Bob you are always a big help, 1 is a bummer. I appreciate the detailed answer to 2, your short cut will save me some time and 3 I know and was just a bit of a tongue and cheek.


Regards


----------



## a1usedcomp

I replaced my Audioquest Columbia RCA's today between my D2 and Amp with Audioquest Columbia XLR's


The question I have is why the XLR Balanced is 7db higher than the RCA Unblanced side is this normal ?


My levels on L&R went from -3.5 db to -10.5 db ?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *a1usedcomp*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38040#post_22310635
> 
> 
> I replaced my Audioquest Columbia RCA's today between my D2 and Amp with Audioquest Columbia XLR's
> 
> The question I have is why the XLR Balanced is 7db higher than the RCA Unblanced side is this normal ?
> 
> My levels on L&R went from -3.5 db to -10.5 db ?


XLR Connections normally provide a 6db boost over RCA Connections.


----------



## a1usedcomp

Thanks just seemed strange that I nned to have a setting of -10.5 to get 75db


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *a1usedcomp*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38040#post_22310635
> 
> 
> I replaced my Audioquest Columbia RCA's today between my D2 and Amp with Audioquest Columbia XLR's
> 
> 
> The question I have is why the XLR Balanced is 7db higher than the RCA Unblanced side is this normal ?
> 
> 
> My levels on L&R went from -3.5 db to -10.5 db ?


Yes, it's normal. See Section 2 of the Manual. The actual difference is +6 dB (XLR is twice as hot as RCA) and it is a simple consequence of the way XLR works.


XLR sends the signal twice; presented either side of ground. At the receiving end, one signal is subtracted from the other. The cunning scheme is that any interference that penetrates the cable shield along the length of the cable will affect both sides equally. And thus this subtraction automagically eliminates any such cable-penetrating interference.


Now for the math: a - (-a) = 2a

QED


Some amps will provide an input selector switch which can be set to attenuate this standard, +6dB difference when using XLR cabling.

--Bob


----------



## a1usedcomp

I see that now thanks , I just added the Columbia's on the L&R for now and might add another on the center channel if I happen to run across one . For the surrounds I will use a cheaper XLR cable . Also my amp does have a switch for each channel Bal - Un Bal


----------



## programmergeek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38000_100#post_22297910
> 
> 
> Yes. I did so in my theater, where I built triangular enclosures which house in-wall speakers. The attached diagram shows one flavor of the concept, aiming the surrounds toward the furthest seat. In my room I chose to aim all the surrounds to the MLP.
> 
> 
> I would not expect any difference, as I assume the properties (on- and off-axis response, and directivity) are much the same as a conventional 3-way monopole speaker.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38000_100#post_22297662
> 
> 
> Roger
> 
> Looking at your diagram would you recommend the rear speakers be angled in towards the center seating position like in your graphic ?
> 
> And
> 
> If the surround side speakers were a monopole speaker like below how would this effect the layout and sound ?



This is a good start, but you can't be this analytical. Also you could add the room dementions and caculate the speaker placement to remove the standing waves but that is a good start. Normally when I build rooms for acustics we look a the type and brand of speaker some dissappear much better than others, some are better high some are better low. Best thing to do is I will hook up the speaker sit in a couple of positions snd figure out where that speaker images best in the room place some sound pannels around to make them all sound similar before you even eq anything. At the end of the day it is about what sounds best not where the piece of paper tells you to put it, the paper can't account for differences in rooms like doorways funiture etc. But the gole is to make the speakers sound crisp, clear, and disappear into the room.


----------



## terryshep

hi sorry if this is in the wrong forum but i have a anthem d2v 3d and my blu ray player has just died pionner lx91 what i need to no is what is best for the d2v the OPPO BDP-95EU or the 93 what one would you go for i dont wont to wast my money

thanks for your help


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38040#post_22312835
> 
> 
> hi sorry if this is in the wrong forum but i have a anthem d2v 3d and my blu ray player has just died pionner lx91 what i need to no is what is best for the d2v the OPPO BDP-95EU or the 93 what one would you go for i dont wont to wast my money
> 
> thanks for your help


The OPPO 95 would be best *IF* you are into analog audio.The 95 has a better DAC chips and better analog output circuits.

I believe the video performance and digital audio is the same for both units.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38000_100#post_22312835
> 
> 
> hi sorry if this is in the wrong forum but i have a anthem d2v 3d and my blu ray player has just died pionner lx91 what i need to no is what is best for the d2v the OPPO BDP-95EU or the 93 what one would you go for i dont wont to wast my money
> 
> thanks for your help



My *TWO CENT Opinion* is the SONY S790 as long as Analog is not a Criteria


----------



## jayray

*Beta 3.08a Released*



CHANGE LIST

 

v3.08a beta:

 

1.  DTS Master Audio surround position mapping disabled.  The reason for this choice is that newer 7.1-speaker installations are more likely to have the side surround speakers directly beside the central listening position instead of slightly behind it.

 

2.  v3.04b contained some changes to the timing of subroutines.  This may have affected the response to certain third party IR macros sent during power-on.  The timing has been re-adjusted in an attempt to restore operation of these macros (note that without said macros at hand to test with, this is a shot in the dark).


John


----------



## RobertR

Thanks for the update, John. I'll give 3.08a a try tomorrow.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I installed "test" firmware V3.08a in my D2v/3D and re-Uploaded my existing ARC solution.


The firmware passes my basic sanity checks.


There HAS been a change related to sending a Source selector during power up but it's still not fixed. It remains the case that it fails -- with the front panel briefly going black -- if you wait, say, 4 seconds after Power On to sent the command. My prior timing of 4.5 seconds which worked in V3.00 and earlier still fails.


Note that in the older firmware, sending the command earlier than about 4 seconds meant it just got ignored.


The NEW thing is that if you NOW send the command EARLIER it "almost works". After some brief experimentation it looks like waiting 2 seconds is closest to right. The front panel does not go black and the Source selector is applied. The PROBLEM is that if you send a selector with a repeated number, e.g., THX-8-8 it doesn't work unless there's some pause between the two 8s. This is not necessary for THX-8-9, and after the the unit is fully powered up, it's also not necessary for THX-8-8. I'm not sure if I can adjust the programmable remote to workaround this. All of the testing here was doing using the REAL D2v remote, counting off the seconds and manually pressing the right buttons.


Unfortunately that's all the testing I'll be able to do on this probably until the weekend. In particular, I can't test the DTS-HD MA stuff right now.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I had a chance to do a pass of DTS-HD MA Bitstream testing against "test" firmware V3.08a this morning.


The only problem I found was that 6.1 DTS-HD MA is not handling the Center-Rear content correctly. In my 5.1 speaker setup, Center-Rear is only coming out on LS. RS remains silent.


The mapping of Sides into the Fronts is fixed. Volume appears balanced across the LF/C/RF fronts -- i.e., no +/- 3dB error.


My caution against trying recent "test" versions is lifted. I see no problem with folks trying this version if you want to help shake it out.


It would be great if some others here could bang on this version and see if anything breaks.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Found another problem with V3.08a:


When 2.0 DTS-HD MA Bitstream is played using PLIIx-Movie in my 5.1 speaker configuration the volume is WAY low compared to LPCM input.


Tested with the Audio/Video Sync chart on Disney WOW, Blu-ray.


Curiously this problem does NOT show when playing the 2.0 DTS-HD MA speaker level calibration test on that disc. I suspect PLIIx-Movie has a phase error combining LF/RF input in the Bitstream, which wouldn't happen on the level calibration chart since only one channel at a time is active.


As stated, LPCM input does not have this problem.

--Bob


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38040#post_22314949
> 
> 
> I had a chance to do a pass of DTS-HD MA Bitstream testing against "test" firmware V3.08a this morning.
> 
> The only problem I found was that 6.1 DTS-HD MA is not handling the Center-Rear content correctly. In my 5.1 speaker setup, Center-Rear is only coming out on LS. RS remains silent.
> 
> The mapping of Sides into the Fronts is fixed. Volume appears balanced across the LF/C/RF fronts -- i.e., no +/- 3dB error.
> 
> 
> Found another problem with V3.08a:
> 
> 
> When 2.0 DTS-HD MA Bitstream is played using PLIIx-Movie in my 5.1 speaker configuration the volume is WAY low compared to LPCM input.
> 
> 
> My caution against trying recent "test" versions is lifted. I see no problem with folks trying this version if you want to help shake it out.
> 
> It would be great if some others here could bang on this version and see if anything breaks.
> 
> --Bob


Bob,


On my 7.1 setup (with a phantom center), I noticed no missing information from any of the speakers on the 6.1 LOTR DTS MA soundtrack. I didn't try DTS MA 2.0, but I did try the mono DTS MA track on Citizen Kane, and it sounded fine. So far, everything is good.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" Firmware V3.08b Now On Anthem's Password Protected Download Page*


This is the next cut at the adjusted handling of DTS-HD MA. The release notes say it fixes the down-mix of 6.1 DTS-HD MA to 5.1 speakers. I don't know if it also addresses the issue I found with 2.0 DTS-HD MA dual channel Mono tracks and PLIIx-Movie -- something to check.


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I installed "test" firmware V3.08b and it passes all my initial sanity checks.


The bug screwing up 6.1 DTS-HD MA Bitstream input in a 5.1 speaker configuration has indeed been fixed. Center-Rear content is now properly split between LS and RS in the 5.1 speakers.


At this point, it looks like Bitstream input of 5.1, 6.1, and 7.1 DTS-HD MA is working as hoped.


However, 2.0 DTS-HD MA Bitstream input is still doing strange stuff. The key new symptom I noticed this time is that ALL the surround modes are limiting their output to just LF/RF/Sub. This even includes things like All Channel Mono and All Channel Stereo! The volume difference on that dual channel Mono 2.0 DTS-HD MA A/V Sync test from Disney WOW may simply be a function of how aggressively each type of surround mode is collapsing that down to just Center -- combined with the fact that Center isn't actually being SENT any audio!


LPCM input of the same tracks works fine.


The problem with trying to send a 3-button Source selector during Power Up is unchanged from V3.08a. I.e, it's still broken.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Bob ...i just wanted to thank you for being brave and volunteering to feret out the bugs with these beta codes from Anthem







. I am waiting for the green-light from you or Anthem to safely upload the software.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38040#post_22317628
> 
> 
> I installed "test" firmware V3.08b and it passes all my initial sanity checks.
> 
> The bug screwing up 6.1 DTS-HD MA Bitstream input in a 5.1 speaker configuration has indeed been fixed. Center-Rear content is now properly split between LS and RS in the 5.1 speakers.
> 
> At this point, it looks like Bitstream input of 5.1, 6.1, and 7.1 DTS-HD MA is working as hoped.
> 
> However, 2.0 DTS-HD MA Bitstream input is still doing strange stuff. The key new symptom I noticed this time is that ALL the surround modes are limiting their output to just LF/RF/Sub. This even includes things like All Channel Mono and All Channel Stereo! The volume difference on that dual channel Mono 2.0 DTS-HD MA A/V Sync test from Disney WOW may simply be a function of how aggressively each type of surround mode is collapsing that down to just Center -- combined with the fact that Center isn't actually being SENT any audio!
> 
> LPCM input of the same tracks works fine.
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with trying to send a 3-button Source selector during Power Up is unchanged from V3.08a. I.e, it's still broken.
> 
> --Bob



Are most movies in 5.1 DTS ? What comes in the 2.0?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38070#post_22317850
> 
> 
> Are most movies in 5.1 DTS ? What comes in the 2.0?



The Big blue - luc besson


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38070#post_22317888
> 
> 
> The Big blue - luc besson



Ok. I'm not too worried then.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38040#post_22317628
> 
> 
> I installed "test" firmware V3.08b and it passes all my initial sanity checks.
> 
> The bug screwing up 6.1 DTS-HD MA Bitstream input in a 5.1 speaker configuration has indeed been fixed. Center-Rear content is now properly split between LS and RS in the 5.1 speakers.
> 
> At this point, it looks like Bitstream input of 5.1, 6.1, and 7.1 DTS-HD MA is working as hoped.
> 
> However, 2.0 DTS-HD MA Bitstream input is still doing strange stuff. The key new symptom I noticed this time is that ALL the surround modes are limiting their output to just LF/RF/Sub. This even includes things like All Channel Mono and All Channel Stereo! The volume difference on that dual channel Mono 2.0 DTS-HD MA A/V Sync test from Disney WOW may simply be a function of how aggressively each type of surround mode is collapsing that down to just Center -- combined with the fact that Center isn't actually being SENT any audio!
> 
> LPCM input of the same tracks works fine.
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with trying to send a 3-button Source selector during Power Up is unchanged from V3.08a. I.e, it's still broken.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I assume since the D2 accepts only 5.1 input and pcm that this is not a problem for D2 owners, right?


A suggestion for your remote-- with my urc I do 'power on' and 'source select' (dvd, cd, or whatever) almost immediately with only a 0.2 sec delay in the macro between commands and it works fine. If I wait any longer for the 'source' command I need to wait til it has completely powered up to change sources. I don't know if you can program your remote to do this, but if you can it might be worth a try.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38070#post_22317982
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I assume since the D2 accepts only 5.1 input and pcm that this is not a problem for D2 owners, right?
> 
> 
> A suggestion for your remote-- with my urc I do 'power on' and 'source select' (dvd, cd, or whatever) almost immediately with only a 0.2 sec delay in the macro between commands and it works fine. If I wait any longer for the 'source' command I need to wait til it has completely powered up to change sources. I don't know if you can program your remote to do this, but if you can it might be worth a try.
> 
> 
> Tom



The issue Anthem is working on for DTS-HD MA is whether there is a "better" way to handle Bitstream input. Since the original D2 does not accept Bitstream for those tracks the issue does not arise. Any questions like that would be handled by the decoding in your player.


The timing for Power Up is quite different between the D2 and the D2v as more hardware is booting in the D2v. The problem seems limited to 3-button Source selectors tried during Power Up, such as sending THX-8-9 to select TV1 directly (see Appendix A in the Manual) while the D2v is still powering up. This worked up through V3.00, but is broken in newer firmware. There's no problem with 3-button commands AFTER the D2v is fully powered up.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38070#post_22317850
> 
> 
> 
> Are most movies in 5.1 DTS ? What comes in the 2.0?



Older movies on Blu-ray often have their original Mono audio on disc as 2.0 DTS-HD MA. This "dual channel Mono" -- both channels contain the same content -- rather than real Stereo.


Musical performances will also often offer a traditional Stereo track, perhaps along with a surround sound track.


Commentary tracks are also normally Stereo, although usually those are also lossy encoded.

--Bob


----------



## Mitch57




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38070#post_22317982
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I assume since the D2 accepts only 5.1 input and pcm that this is not a problem for D2 owners, right?
> 
> A suggestion for your remote-- with my urc I do 'power on' and 'source select' (dvd, cd, or whatever) almost immediately with only a 0.2 sec delay in the macro between commands and it works fine. If I wait any longer for the 'source' command I need to wait til it has completely powered up to change sources. I don't know if you can program your remote to do this, but if you can it might be worth a try.
> 
> Tom



Many manufactures allow the processor to power on by selecting a source (CD, DVD, Radio, etc.). Since I don't own any Anthem products this may not be possible. But I thought I would throw that out there as this would solve many of the issues you may be having with your remote macros if Anthem supports this feature.


Cheers,


Mitch


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The D2v has "overlaid" Sources. That is, there is a single TV Source button but if your Setup allows, that button can cycle through TV1, TV2, TV3, and TV4 which can each have their own unique Setup definitions.


The D2v WILL power up if you press the TV Source button on its Front Panel, but that just gets you back to whichever one of those four which was last in use.


And in any event, that only works for the Front Panel. The TV button on the Remote does not also power up the D2v.


The IR Remote control codes allow 3-button sequences to go directly to any of the overlaid Source definitions. For example the 3-button sequence THX-8-9 goes to TV1 regardless of where you were before. With the TV button you have to know where you were coming from and which of the 4 TV choices you used last, which the Remote won't know.


Once the D2v is powered up, the 3-button commands work fine. The problem is that they are no longer being handled correctly DURING power up -- which takes about 11 seconds. Too long to have to keep the programmable remote pointed in the right direction.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

How do I bring up my current firmware version?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It looks like the newest device definition Logitech/Harmony has for the D2v is not TRYING to use the 3-button commands for direct access to, e.g., TV2 Source.


Instead it appears the remote is trying to keep track of the usage status of each of the overlaid Sources and then sending the correct number of "cycle" commands to get where you are trying to go. So if it thinks the TV overlay was last on TV2, and if you are currently on DVD1, an attempt to get to TV1 works like this:


1) Send TV -- that gets you to the last used of the TV overlays, TV2 in this example.


2) Send TV three times more -- that gets you cycled around to TV3, then TV4, then TV1. Which, at long last, is where you want to be.


This scheme only works if the remote has a valid record of where you last were on each of the overlaid sources. It's not clear to me if the Harmony is trying to remember that even after the D2v is powered off.


And in this example this also means you wait through 4 "input selection" delays, as each sending of the TV button gets followed by whatever you have specified as the delay after changing the D2v's input (to give it a chance to react).


So I'll try for a bit to make this scheme work as it doesn't look like a fix for the 3-button selectors during Power Up is likely to happen for a bit.


I *KNOW* Harmony knows who to formulate and transmit the 3-button selector commands properly, so why they've got their D2v definition doing it this way is beyond me.


Their newest D2v definition has other oddities. For example the definition does not include commands for the numeric keys! Bizarre. You have to "learn" those.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38070#post_22319157
> 
> 
> How do I bring up my current firmware version?



Press Select once on the remote and it will be at the right hand end of the first line of status text that comes up in the Front Panel, and also on-screen if you have the on-screen display enabled.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38070#post_22319182
> 
> 
> Press Select once on the remote and it will be at the right hand end of the first line of status text that comes up in the Front Panel, and also on-screen if you have the on-screen display enabled.
> 
> --Bob



Cool. I have 3.01










I will wait I guess until the new versions are official.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ That would be wise as V3.01 is not on the web site if you don't like the newer stuff and want to revert.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38070#post_22319179
> 
> 
> It looks like the newest device definition Logitech/Harmony has for the D2v is not TRYING to use the 3-button commands for direct access to, e.g., TV2 Source.
> 
> Instead it appears the remote is trying to keep track of the usage status of each of the overlaid Sources and then sending the correct number of "cycle" commands to get where you are trying to go. So if it thinks the TV overlay was last on TV2, and if you are currently on DVD1, an attempt to get to TV1 works like this:
> 
> 1) Send TV -- that gets you to the last used of the TV overlays, TV2 in this example.
> 
> 2) Send TV three times more -- that gets you cycled around to TV3, then TV4, then TV1. Which, at long last, is where you want to be.
> 
> This scheme only works if the remote has a valid record of where you last were on each of the overlaid sources. It's not clear to me if the Harmony is trying to remember that even after the D2v is powered off.
> 
> And in this example this also means you wait through 4 "input selection" delays, as each sending of the TV button gets followed by whatever you have specified as the delay after changing the D2v's input (to give it a chance to react).
> 
> 
> 
> So I'll try for a bit to make this scheme work as it doesn't look like a fix for the 3-button selectors during Power Up is likely to happen for a bit.
> 
> I *KNOW* Harmony knows who to formulate and transmit the 3-button selector commands properly, so why they've got their D2v definition doing it this way is beyond me.
> 
> Their newest D2v definition has other oddities. For example the definition does not include commands for the numeric keys! Bizarre. You have to "learn" those.
> 
> --Bob



Bob:


Have you tried to go back to v3.00 to see if the problem exists? It seems, from what i've read that the problem is due to mostly the new Harmony One code and partially Anthem in its latest versions but that all was well with v3.00. Is this correct?.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The problem with the Anthem can be demonstrated with its own remote, and does not exist in V3.00 or earlier. (I've not tried V3.01).


Power up and select DVD1. Power down. Press Power Up, count 4 seconds, enter THX-8-9 (to select TV1 while the power up is still in process). It will fail with the Front Panel briefly going black, and you will be left on DVD1.


The problem with the Harmony is an entirely separate matter. I'm trying to recover from the fact that they made some software change at some point that destroyed my previously working D2v configuration when I updated the remote with a different power on delay for the D2v. The Harmony comments I'm making here are mostly because I'm pissed off at Harmony's response to their mistake and because I thought folks might be interested in how poorly the default D2v configuration for the Harmony works. This is entirely separate from the D2v bug.


(Really, after all this time there's no excuse for Harmony not having a fully functional and complete database entry for the D2v. Their system is SUPPOSED to capture fixes they do for people so the database for each device gets progressively more perfect. They FAIL at this.)

--Bob


----------



## Mitch57




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38070#post_22319469
> 
> 
> ^ The problem with the Anthem can be demonstrated with its own remote, and does not exist in V3.00 or earlier. (I've not tried V3.01).
> 
> (Really, after all this time there's no excuse for Harmony not having a fully functional and complete database entry for the D2v. Their system is SUPPOSED to capture fixes they do for people so the database for each device gets progressively more perfect. They FAIL at this.)
> 
> --Bob



As do other remote manufacturers. URC isn't much better. You would think a company that specializes in remotes only would be able to get all the database codes correct. Especially since the codes are provided to them, in most cases, by the manufacturer. But half the time the codes for a particular piece of equipment in URC's database don't work at all. Go figure....!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I don't know about URC, but Harmony has claimed from the beginning that any adjustments they make to a device definition -- particularly adjustments made by Level 2 support or the experts they call upon for the tough jobs -- will get fed back into the database so that later customers won't have to go through the same struggle.


Harmony has known how to do the D2v "correctly" for a LONG time. But nope, if you load up a brand new D2v definition today you still find issues that were fixed several years ago.


I've no doubt I can get them fixed AGAIN.


But I shouldn't have to.

--Bob


----------



## a1usedcomp

Looking for some advice , my main seating for me and the wife is a love seat which has a consel in the middle . The consol is the sweet spot at this point so Im pushed off to the left side and closer to the left main speaker and left surround and the left of the tv screen. I have not ran Arc yet beacuse I want to get everything in order all I have done was use a SPL and I hear the left speaker over the right and the wife hears the right speaker over the left . Will Arc fix this issue ?


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38070#post_22319942
> 
> 
> ^ I don't know about URC, but Harmony has claimed from the beginning that any adjustments they make to a device definition -- particularly adjustments made by Level 2 support or the experts they call upon for the tough jobs -- will get fed back into the database so that later customers won't have to go through the same struggle.
> 
> Harmony has known how to do the D2v "correctly" for a LONG time. But nope, if you load up a brand new D2v definition today you still find issues that were fixed several years ago.
> 
> I've no doubt I can get them fixed AGAIN.
> 
> But I shouldn't have to.
> 
> --Bob



In my latest setup, at my installers suggestion, I stated using VCR, satellite, cd inputs etc, for my additional sources and just renaming them in the Anthem setup menu to whatever I had DVD2 and so forth set to. It has made life so much easier than trying to make the Anthem cycle through the 1-4 inputs. I can't believe I didn't think of that after all this time.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Oh yee of only a few Sources!










ALL of my Source slots are in use including all the overlays.


(Some of these are for things like switching between two different Video Source Adjust menu setups for the same input device.)

--Bob


----------



## dweltman

Yes I have TV for my Fios box, DVD1 for my Oppo at 1080p24, another for my Oppo at 1080p60, 1 for my kid's Xbox, and 1 for my Sony 5400 when I don't want to play SACDs on the Oppo so I can feed to the D2V at 176/24. Having an Oppo really gets down on the number of boxes in my system. I thought it would true of you as well


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38070#post_22320641
> 
> 
> Yes I have TV for my Fios box, DVD1 for my Oppo at 1080p24, another for my Oppo at 1080p60, 1 for my kid's Xbox, and 1 for my Sony 5400 when I don't want to play SACDs on the Oppo so I can feed to the D2V at 176/24. Having an Oppo really gets down on the number of boxes in my system. I thought it would true of you as well



By the way, there's a REASON the OPPO does its SACD decodes at 88.2KHz instead of 176.4KHz. See this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1311806/official-oppo-bdp-95-owners-thread/7200#post_21468581 


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Harmony Remote vs. D2v saga continues:


The newest Anthem Statement D2v definition in the Harmony database is actually a substantial improvement over their prior D2 definition, but it's still not all there.


The D2v has a collection of buttons that need to be coded to produce a "long command" if the button is pressed and held. If the button is pressed and released a normal, "regular command" is sent. This "long command" behavior is distinct from the 3rd choice which is a "multiple command".


The Volume Up/Down buttons are the classic example of a button that does a multiple command when pressed and held.


But buttons like Menu and the "7" key need to send a long command if pressed and held so that the D2v knows to bring up the appropriate menu.


The new D2v database entry HAS correct entries for all of these. For example there's an entry for "VideoProcessor" which is actually the "7" button set up this way. And "Sub-LFE", which is also the "Menu" button is also set up this way.


The database does NOT have entries for the numeric keys but it has named entries which are actually each of the numeric keys, specially coded as needed. So digits 1-6 are actually "Preset1" through "Preset6", and 7, 8, 9, and 0, are "VideoProcessor", "Display", "ToneBypass", and "Dynamics". The other keys that need special coding, like Mode and Menu also have correctly coded named entries. All of this stuff had to be fixed specially by Harmony back in the days of their original D2 definition.


So that part is good. You just have to translate the names they've used into the buttons you want to apply them to.


The database definition is set to a Key Repeat Count of 1. That has to be changed to 0 or the Volume Up/Down keys will make multiple volume steps with each press.


This is a change the user can make in his configuration for the D2v device. The D2v, like the D2 before it, does not need each command sent multiple times (key repeat) before it will accept and act on the command.


The remaining problems are


1) The Source input selectors for things like TV1 and DVD3 work strangely. Rather than sending the 3-button sequence (e.g., "THX-8-9" for TV1) they are attempting to send repeated cycling commands (e.g., the regular "TV" button) enough times to get to the right place. This is kind of slow since you need an input selector delay after each of them. But even with an appropriate delay this still doesn't work because the remote is not sending the commands when you go into or out of any specific overlaid set. So going from TV1 to TV3 works, or TV2 to TV1. But going from CD to TV1 fails, as does TV1 to CD, and TV1 to DVD3. I'm going to see if I can get them to go back to using the 3-button selectors. Note that the remote can't "learn" a 3-button sequence, nor can you define a multi-key sequence for an input selector. So this is a fix Harmony has to do.


2) The Arrow keys WORK in the current database definition, and they even do "multiple commands" when pressed and held as they are supposed to (both or which are issues I had to get fixed back in the day). But they work SLOWLY. Evidently the command they have coded into them has some sort of extended sequence. I tried "Learning" new commands to replace the database Arrow key entries, but that does not work. The same problem happened back in the day. There's something extra-funky about the Arrow keys in the Anthem remotes. Anyway, Harmony has it almost right, and hopefully they can finish the job.


I'll report when they get me a new configuration to try that works better.

--Bob


----------



## cougar75

I dumped my Harmony remote. I now have a TouchSquid.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38070#post_22321799
> 
> 
> I dumped my Harmony remote. I now have a TouchSquid.



Interesting device. How detailed and flexible is its device library as compared to Harmony? How does its setup compare to the Harmony?


----------



## cougar75

It is software driven (Android). Easy to program. Do not have to log on to a website to use software. Everything is downloaded into the TouchSquid and immediately accessible. Highly customizable. Large 5" high resolution color screen. Has built-in IR, WiFi and Bluetooth. I am using it with a WiFi to IR converter made by Global Cache (purchased separately). It utilizes my home WiFi network. Much more dependable than the Harmony system and very fast. Here is the TouchSquid forum link: http://touchsquid.info/forum/index.php 


You can also purchase just the software and run it on a tablet if you choose to go that route.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*New "Test" Firmware V3.08c Now on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page*


"Test" firmware V3.08c is expected to have the fix in it for the broken interaction between 2.0 DTS-HD MA Bitstream input and the Surround Audio Processing modes such as PLIIx-Movie. I believe that was the last remaining known issue in the new DTS-HD MA stuff. I'll be checking that later this afternoon.

--Bob


----------



## a1usedcomp

Is a used D2 / Arc worth 1100.00 more than a MRX-500/Arc ? Used MRX-500 1100.00 Used D2 2200.00


Also an Amp and cables needed to use the D2



MRX-500 USED 1100.00 Total no cables and amp needed


D2/ARC USED 2200.00 PLUS AMP 800-900.00 XLR/RCA X5 $? Min of 3500.00 Total


Total diffrence combined 2400.00


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" Firmware V3.08c Looking Good!*


I loaded "test" firmware V3.08c and re-Uploaded my existing ARC configuration. It passes all of my usual, post-install sanity checks.


I've now completed going through my complete set of audio tests and I've not found a single problem in my 5.1 speaker configuration!


Unless there's a problem lurking for folks with 7.1 speakers I'd say this audio change is done.


The issue with 3-button Source selectors also show some improvement. Although I can still get the failure mode to happen if I wait about 4 seconds after Power ON before sending the Selector, I've found that in this firmware I can send the command EARLIER and get it work work -- apparently reliably -- with ONE EXCEPTION.


The exception is THX-8-8 (DVD4). It looks like the D2v simply won't buffer a repeated digit until after it is fully powered on. Fortunately there's only one such case in the list of 3-button Source selectors, but it's still annoying not to have a complete solution.


The oddball problem with S-video from my Velodyne DD series subwoofer also still exists. Other S-video sources work fine.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25

I have a Sony ES 5400 CD player and to an Oppo 95 connected to Anthem D2v. While playing CD's through both players via HDMI to D2v,sound drop offs in between for 3-4 seconds and comes back 4-5 times during a full play of a CD. I have tried changing HDMI cables, same issue. Anyone has had this situation? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38070#post_22325337
> 
> 
> I have a Sony ES 5400 CD player and to an Oppo 95 connected to Anthem D2v. While playing CD's through both players via HDMI to D2v,sound drop offs in between for 3-4 seconds and comes back 4-5 times during a full play of a CD. I have tried changing HDMI cables, same issue. Anyone has had this situation? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.



That sounds like you are having an HDMI copy protection failure. Copy protection rechecks the HDMI setup every 10 to 15 minutes or so -- usually in the background so you don't notice. But it LIKES to fail, and if if fails then you get an HDMI retry (a reset of the connection) which lasts 2-4 seconds. Audio is muted during that. If this is what's going on it will happen playing ANY CD and it will happen at random time codes -- not repeatable if you play the same portion over again. Given the timing, that would occur 4-5 times in a typical length CD.


I'm assuming you have a "simple" HDMI hookup -- i.e., one cable from each player to the D2v, and one cable from the D2v to your display and NO OTHER HDMI CABLES. If things are more complicated -- for example if you are using BOTH HDMI outputs of the OPPO 95, then there are other things to try.


Assuming the simple hookup, start by temporarily disconnecting the HDMI from the D2v to your display. Now play a CD using HDMI input from the OPPO 95 and see if the problem has gone away. If so, then the issue is on the display side of the D2v. If that's the case, and if you are playing CDs with your display turned OFF, re-connect the HDMI between it and the D2v and try again with the display turned ON while playing the CD. If THAT makes the problem go away, then try again, this time changing the display to some OTHER input -- perhaps one that's not even cabled -- before turning it OFF. The display may be doing funky things on its "last used" HDMI input while the display is supposedly OFF.

-Bob


----------



## scheong




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38070#post_22321754
> 
> 
> The Harmony Remote vs. D2v saga continues:
> 
> The newest Anthem Statement D2v definition in the Harmony database is actually a substantial improvement over their prior D2 definition, but it's still not all there.
> 
> The D2v has a collection of buttons that need to be coded to produce a "long command" if the button is pressed and held. If the button is pressed and released a normal, "regular command" is sent. This "long command" behavior is distinct from the 3rd choice which is a "multiple command".
> 
> The Volume Up/Down buttons are the classic example of a button that does a multiple command when pressed and held.
> 
> But buttons like Menu and the "7" key need to send a long command if pressed and held so that the D2v knows to bring up the appropriate menu.
> 
> The new D2v database entry HAS correct entries for all of these. For example there's an entry for "VideoProcessor" which is actually the "7" button set up this way. And "Sub-LFE", which is also the "Menu" button is also set up this way.
> 
> The database does NOT have entries for the numeric keys but it has named entries which are actually each of the numeric keys, specially coded as needed. So digits 1-6 are actually "Preset1" through "Preset6", and 7, 8, 9, and 0, are "VideoProcessor", "Display", "ToneBypass", and "Dynamics". The other keys that need special coding, like Mode and Menu also have correctly coded named entries. All of this stuff had to be fixed specially by Harmony back in the days of their original D2 definition.
> 
> So that part is good. You just have to translate the names they've used into the buttons you want to apply them to.
> 
> 
> 
> The database definition is set to a Key Repeat Count of 1. That has to be changed to 0 or the Volume Up/Down keys will make multiple volume steps with each press.
> 
> This is a change the user can make in his configuration for the D2v device. The D2v, like the D2 before it, does not need each command sent multiple times (key repeat) before it will accept and act on the command.
> 
> 
> 
> The remaining problems are
> 
> 1) The Source input selectors for things like TV1 and DVD3 work strangely. Rather than sending the 3-button sequence (e.g., "THX-8-9" for TV1) they are attempting to send repeated cycling commands (e.g., the regular "TV" button) enough times to get to the right place. This is kind of slow since you need an input selector delay after each of them. But even with an appropriate delay this still doesn't work because the remote is not sending the commands when you go into or out of any specific overlaid set. So going from TV1 to TV3 works, or TV2 to TV1. But going from CD to TV1 fails, as does TV1 to CD, and TV1 to DVD3. I'm going to see if I can get them to go back to using the 3-button selectors. Note that the remote can't "learn" a 3-button sequence, nor can you define a multi-key sequence for an input selector. So this is a fix Harmony has to do.
> 
> 2) The Arrow keys WORK in the current database definition, and they even do "multiple commands" when pressed and held as they are supposed to (both or which are issues I had to get fixed back in the day). But they work SLOWLY. Evidently the command they have coded into them has some sort of extended sequence. I tried "Learning" new commands to replace the database Arrow key entries, but that does not work. The same problem happened back in the day. There's something extra-funky about the Arrow keys in the Anthem remotes. Anyway, Harmony has it almost right, and hopefully they can finish the job.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll report when they get me a new configuration to try that works better.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


First of all, thanx for working with Harmony to fix the D2v definition. I have a 50v, not a D2v. Do you know if the latest 50v definition suffers the same issues?


It has been a while since I have updated anything on my Harmony One. The last time was after working with Harmony's level two support to put in the 3-button sequence for direct source selection into the 50v definition. At that time, I also recall the numeric keys were not in the definition and I had to "learn" the numeric keys.


I am hoping that the soon-to-be released official firmware from Anthem will include a fix for the 3-button sequence during power up so that I don't have to update my Harmony One.










Stanley


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Much as I'd like to believe what I'm doing with Logitech/Harmony will benefit other users, what their "customer support" is telling me now is that there's NO WAY fixes they make for me will find their way into the "official" database entry for the D2v. This is a very different tune from the one they sang in 2008.


(I've not looked at the entry for the AVM 50v, so I don't really know what's in there.)


They're telling me that even Harmony Level 2 support can not push changes into their database -- that changes can only come from some mysterious group of luminous beings known only as "engineering".


Of course now that they are CHARGING for support (after 90 days) there's not much incentive for them to keep from having to fix the SAME problem for DIFFERENT customers over and over again....


Lest this all sound entirely negative, I should mention that their current configuration software, combined with current firmware in the remotes, allows a LOT more flexibility in laying out a convenient arrangement of the controls than was true back in the day.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

I am getting strange static like popping noises on loud movie scenes with my Direct TV DVR. I think it's only happening on this input. Any ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38100#post_22327129
> 
> 
> I am getting strange static like popping noises on loud movie scenes with my Direct TV DVR. I think it's only happening on this input. Any ideas?



Since it's a DVR, replay the scene and if the same sounds happen at the same point then it is likely in the content DirecTV is sending you. It happens. Try a different channel and see if the problem goes away.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" Firmware V3.09 Now on Anthem's Password Protect Download Page*


This includes a fix for some relatively minor issues relating to 1.0 DTS-HD MA and the Surround modes.


From the version number, it looks like they may be thinking of this one as a Release Candidate although it is identified as a Beta.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just loaded "test" firmware V3.09 and also re-Uploaded my current ARC solution, as is my practice. It passes all my normal, post-install sanity checks.


I'll be throwing different sorts of audio and video at it, but I don't really expect anything different from the good results I got with V3.08c.


Known issues (for me) are that the interaction between Power ON and 3-button Source selectors is unchanged from V3.08c. And the oddball issue with S-video from my Velodyne DD series subwoofer still exists.

*I'm only equipped to check this stuff in a 5.1 speaker configuration. I certainly hope that some other brave souls here are also checking this -- particularly if you have 7.1 speakers.


And of course also folks with original AVM 50v and D2v hardware (without the 3D upgrade).*

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

How long should it take for the firmware to post on the site?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The firmware is on their password protected download page now. It won't be put on the normal, public download page until it becomes "Official".


It's no big secret, but the idea is to keep new users from installing "test" firmware without realizing the difference, and also to make sure folks who do install "test" firmware are aware that it is "not finished yet" and may come with unpleasant surprises, possibly warranting a re-install of the prior firmware.


If you feel you can help in testing this stuff, and are OK with the potential nuisances that might come with it from time to time, then just talk to Anthem tech support. Any problems you find should be emailed to Anthem -- not just posted here.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38100#post_22328060
> 
> 
> ^ The firmware is on their password protected download page now. It won't be put on the normal, public download page until it becomes "Official".
> 
> It's no big secret, but the idea is to keep new users from installing "test" firmware without realizing the difference, and also to make sure folks who do install "test" firmware are aware that it is "not finished yet" and may come with unpleasant surprises, possibly warranting a re-install of the prior firmware.
> 
> If you feel you can help in testing this stuff, and are OK with the potential nuisances that might come with it from time to time, then just talk to Anthem tech support. Any problems you find should be emailed to Anthem -- not just posted here.
> 
> --Bob



Nah. I'll wait. I'm too chicken.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've now finished my audio AND video testing on V3.09 and I've spotted no problems in my 5.1 speaker configuration (other than the 2 items previously mentioned above).


I've also just heard from Nick that they ARE considering V3.09 to be a "Release Candidate". That means time is short if you are going to find and report problems prior to this getting released.


It looks like the fix for the 3-button Source selection during startup may have to wait for a "test" firmware after this one becomes "official".

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25

Bob: It surely is related to the display as you suspected. It does not happen while the TV is ON, no matter on what input, I was watching PBS through Antenna, and my D2v played without muting. I tried connecting the TV HDMI to the D2v while it was playing CD as you suggested, but it does not make the problem go away.


Little more on the setup though; I have HDMI 1 from Oppo 95 connected directly to the TV and HDMI 2 from Oppo goes to the D2v, and I have my Sony SACD ES 5400 also connected to the D2v. Sound drop off happens on both players. It does not happen on analog playback as you probably know. Please let me know. It is very frustrating, I cannot have the TV ON while listening to CD's. Thanks.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38100#post_22328950
> 
> 
> Bob: It surely is related to the display as you suspected. It does not happen while the TV is ON, no matter on what input, I was watching PBS through Antenna, and my D2v played without muting. I tried connecting the TV HDMI to the D2v while it was playing CD as you suggested, but it does not make the problem go away.
> 
> Little more on the setup though; I have HDMI 1 from Oppo 95 connected directly to the TV and HDMI 2 from Oppo goes to the D2v, and I have my Sony SACD ES 5400 also connected to the D2v. Sound drop off happens on both players. It does not happen on analog playback as you probably know. Please let me know. It is very frustrating, I cannot have the TV ON while listening to CD's. Thanks.



Explain why you have the OPPO connected this way ?

If you want to listen to a CD and view the metadata, disc info, and cover art, it might be better to just use only the OPPO HDMI 1 connected to the D2v HDMI 1 input.

Connect the D2v HDMI 1 out to your tv

Then, in Source setup for for your source CD, choose Scaler Input HDMI 1 and for Audio In: Dig HDMI.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38100#post_22328950
> 
> 
> Bob: It surely is related to the display as you suspected. It does not happen while the TV is ON, no matter on what input, I was watching PBS through Antenna, and my D2v played without muting. I tried connecting the TV HDMI to the D2v while it was playing CD as you suggested, but it does not make the problem go away.
> 
> 
> Little more on the setup though; I have HDMI 1 from Oppo 95 connected directly to the TV and HDMI 2 from Oppo goes to the D2v, and I have my Sony SACD ES 5400 also connected to the D2v. Sound drop off happens on both players. It does not happen on analog playback as you probably know. Please let me know. It is very frustrating, I cannot have the TV ON while listening to CD's. Thanks.



It sounds like your TV is doing odd things on its last used HDMI input when it is supposedly OFF. Try setting the TV to a DIFFERENT input -- not the HDMI from the OPPO nor the HDMI from the D2v -- preferably set your TV to an HDMI input on it that's not connected to anything. THEN power OFF the TV and see if that fixes things.


And as mentioned in the post above, unless you have a 3D TV and want to bypass the Anthem for video because of that, it is most likely preferable to wire just HDMI 1 from the OPPO to the Anthem, and then HDMI from the Anthem to the TV.


Another thing to check is to turn off HDMI CEC in the OPPO and in your TV (and in any other Sources -- the Anthem does not have any such setting). HDMI CEC is a protocol which lets one device control another (like a remote) over the HDMI cable, and it is one reason that devices have to keep their HDMI sockets live even when they are "off".

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25

Bob: My TV is a 3D TV, Sony XBR 929, so that is the reason I have the HDMI1 from Oppo connected directly to the TV, not that I watch a lot of 3D, I can disconnect and only use one HDMI1 output from the Oppo (HDMI1 I think) to the D2v if nothing else works.


I tried setting the TV to HDMI4, where I only have an HDMI cable connected, but no source on the other end, and that did not fix it. I cannot choose an input which is not connected at all, it does not appear in the list on the TV.


One thing I want to make sure I am understanding correctly; what you are suggesting is that switch the TV to an input which is not even connected, and then turn the TV OFF, and then see if D2v skips right, correct me if I am wrong.


I tried to search CEC in the TV manual, but nothing appeared, so it may not be an option there but I know it is there in Oppo, and I will see if that is ON.


One thing I would like to mention, is that if I remember correctly, this thing only started to happen when I got the Oppo 95 in the mix, and I did something unknowingly and it fixed itself, then again, I changed things around and it started to happen again, and now it happens with both players, but one thing is certain, if you turn the TV ON, it stops doing that.


Please advise.


Thanks.


----------



## paradigm25

I have a TV which is a 3D TV, not that I watch lot of 3D, but that is how you are supposed to do to be able to watch 3D from Oppo, and get sound through D2v. Thanks.


----------



## [email protected]!

Here the new firmware version V3.09

http://www.anthemav.com/products/anthem-statement/a-v-processor/d2v-3d 


Martin.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

***************************************************************

*****

***** ....................... Firmware V3.09 is Now OFFICIAL!

*****

***************************************************************


As expected, Anthem has now posted Firmware V3.09 on their public download pages as the new "Official" Firmware for the AVM 50v and for the Statement D2v, both with and without the new, 3D "pass through" hardware upgrade.


For the Anthem Statement D2v and Statement D2v 3D:

http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-statement/processor/d2v/download-support/software 


For the Anthem AVM 50v and AVM 50v 3D

http://anthemav.com/downloads/anthem/a-v-processor/avm-50v/software 



Release Notes for changes since the prior, Official Firmware -- V2.10 -- read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v3.09:
> 
> 
> This version is applicable to any AVM 50v and D2v, but latest hardware is required for 3D handling and video passthrough mode. The unit displays "3D" on the front panel during power-on if 3D-capable.
> 
> 
> 1. Added support for 3D hardware upgrade kit. Video "Through" mode is required for 3D but can also be used with 2D sources. It must be enabled manually by setting Video Out Configuration in the Source Setup (menu 6) to Through. Scaler In must be set to HDMI 1-4 to allow this selection. Through mode cannot be applied to HDMI output 2 or HDMI inputs 5-8.
> 
> 
> 2. DTS Master Audio surround position mapping disabled. The reason for this choice is that newer 7.1-speaker installations are more likely to have the side surround speakers directly beside the central listening position instead of slightly behind it. Previously, the side-surround channels were partly mixed to the fronts to move the surround image forward.
> 
> 
> 3. General fixes and improvements for HDMI.
> 
> 
> 4. Certain CD tracks were muting mid-song - fixed.
> 
> 
> 5. Interoperability improvements with certain video cards and cable/sat receivers.
> 
> 
> 6. Added support for Custom Resolution Manager v1.1.0 utility (replaces Live Video Settings Editor).
> 
> 
> NOTE: If updating from a version prior to v2.14 beta, the video processor will be reprogrammed. This takes 30-45 minutes and usually resets user settings in the video processor. Make a record of your settings before updating software to this version.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.01 production-only release:
> 
> 
> 1. New units are 3D capable.
> 
> 
> 
> v2.11 production-only release:
> 
> 
> 1. Changed Dolby Volume default to Off and Dolby Volume Leveler to Low.




Enjoy!

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38100#post_22329840
> 
> 
> Bob: My TV is a 3D TV, Sony XBR 929, so that is the reason I have the HDMI1 from Oppo connected directly to the TV, not that I watch a lot of 3D, I can disconnect and only use one HDMI1 output from the Oppo (HDMI1 I think) to the D2v if nothing else works.
> 
> 
> I tried setting the TV to HDMI4, where I only have an HDMI cable connected, but no source on the other end, and that did not fix it. I cannot choose an input which is not connected at all, it does not appear in the list on the TV.
> 
> 
> One thing I want to make sure I am understanding correctly; what you are suggesting is that switch the TV to an input which is not even connected, and then turn the TV OFF, and then see if D2v skips right, correct me if I am wrong.
> 
> 
> I tried to search CEC in the TV manual, but nothing appeared, so it may not be an option there but I know it is there in Oppo, and I will see if that is ON.
> 
> 
> One thing I would like to mention, is that if I remember correctly, this thing only started to happen when I got the Oppo 95 in the mix, and I did something unknowingly and it fixed itself, then again, I changed things around and it started to happen again, and now it happens with both players, but one thing is certain, if you turn the TV ON, it stops doing that.
> 
> 
> Please advise.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



OK, leave HDMI 1 from the OPPO connected directly to the TV and leave HDMI 2 from the OPPO connected to the D2v. Double check you don't have these two confused. The HDMI 1 output is the one toward the center of the back panel on the OPPO. The HDMI 2 output is the one towards the edge of the back panel on the opposite side from the power cord.


In the OPPO, set Setup > Video Setup > Primary Output HDMI 1


Set Resolution 1080p (not Auto and not Source Direct)

Set HDMI Audio LPCM or Bitstream (not Auto)

Set 1080p/24 OFF -- for now, for diagnostic purposes

Set 3D Mode Auto

Set HDMI Color Space YCbCr 4:4:4 (not Auto)


In the Anthem, go to Setup > Source Setup for the Source you are using when playing CDs on the 95. That Source should have the HDMI 2 from the OPPO sent to the Scaler and you should be using HDMI Dig for audio in that Source.


Confirm that Auto Dig is off in that Source.


Now, temporarily DISCONNECT the HDMI cable from the D2v to the display so that the display can ONLY get video from the OPPO.


Now turn on the TV and select the HDMI input from the OPPO. Start a CD playing in the OPPO and confirm that you are getting proper HDMI audio through the Anthem -- without dropouts. Once you've played the CD long enough to confirm that, then, while the CD is still playing, switch the TV to its over the air or cable broadcast TV tuner -- so that it is no longer displaying what's on the HDMI 1 input from the OPPO. Just switch the TV. Leave the Anthem and OPPO playing the CD.


Do you STILL get good CD audio? NOTE: At the moment you switch the TV away from the HDMI input from the OPPO to its broadcast tuner, there will likely be a loss of audio for a few seconds while a new HDMI handshake happens (audio gets muted during a handshake). But after audio comes back it should continue without further dropouts.


If so, and while a CD is still playing and with the TV showing that broadcast TV, now turn off the TV.


What happens to the CD audio? There may be a new handshake when you turn off the TV, but after a few seconds the audio should come back and continue without further dropouts. If you DO get further dropouts on this test, give OPPO Tech Support a call and see if they have some history on your model of Sony TV. There may be some setting they know about which will keep your TV from doing funky things on its HDMI input while the TV is OFF.


If you CAN get good audio with the TV OFF at the end of this test, now try the whole thing AGAIN, but this time leaving the HDMI from the Anthem to the TV connected as normal. You won't be USING that HDMI from the Anthem to the TV, but the way HDMI works, the handshake and copy protection stuff is more complicated while that cable from Anthem to TV is connected even if you are not using it. That's why we'll test first with that cable DISCONNECTED.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25

Bob: I will try all you suggested this evening and report back to you, but it is interesting to read that in their (Anthem) new firmware release they say "4. Certain CD tracks were muting mid-song - fixed." Maybe that is our answer as well, I think I should also update the firmware as well, but would certainly do the test you suggested first. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38100#post_22331065
> 
> 
> Bob: I will try all you suggested this evening and report back to you, but it is interesting to read that in their (Anthem) new firmware release they say "4. Certain CD tracks were muting mid-song - fixed." Maybe that is our answer as well, I think I should also update the firmware as well, but would certainly do the test you suggested first. Thanks.



Good catch! Since I've not had that problem with CDs it didn't occur to me to mention it. If your problem is only showing with CDs then you may be onto the answer.


In any event, now that V3.09 is "official" your first step should be to update to V3.09 as the HDMI improvements in it may also affect this behavior.

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Speaking of 3D: Has anyone heard when these kits are coming out? I thought they were slated for Aug. 1st. I purchased my D2v new approx. 6 months ago and I haven't heard anything about it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Should be happening now. Getting V3.09 "official" was, I believe the last step.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350

Excellent, shall update shortly


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350

FYI the update seems to get stuck at "programming video processors uC FLASH.....Please Wait" and the progress bar cycles for about 10 minutes. Don't panic, just let it run, after 10 minutes the progress bar will slow and the update should finish about 7 minutes after that.


All up the update takes about 30 minutes, probably dependent on current firmware version.


Cheers


----------



## dmusoke

Macca350 ...is it possible for you to repeat the tests you performed many moons ago that showed the level differences between the speaker channels when using DTS-HD sources? I believe LPCM sources never had this problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes, that's what you see when the video board needs its programming updated. Rather than push one big update, it is being sent in batches which takes longer but is much more reliable.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38100#post_22332104
> 
> 
> Macca350 ...is it possible for you to repeat the tests you performed many moons ago that showed the level differences between the speaker channels when using DTS-HD sources? I believe LPCM sources never had this problem.


Yep, will run the full set of tests sometime next week


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38100#post_22332107
> 
> 
> ^ Yes, that's what you see when the video board needs its programming updated. Rather than push one big update, it is being sent in batches which takes longer but is much more reliable.
> 
> --Bob


Makes sense, just had me concerned for a bit.


It's been a while since I set up my harmony one remote. I noticed you mentioned something about the long press buttons like 'menu' etc now being in the Logitech database. Is that true and is it worth updating my harmony remote?


At the moment I keep the D2v remote handy just for a couple of those long press button functions 'menu' and 'dynamics'. Would be nice to pack it away.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yeah the long press buttons are currently all in Harmony's definition for the Statement D2v. On the other hand the input selectors are broken and the arrow keys, although they work, are slower than they should be.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Hi Bob:


I measured the internal temperature of my D2v in its rack and it measued anywhere from 100F (37.8C) to 110F(43.3C) depending on the time of day. Is this normal? If not, what is the typical or safe are of operation for this unit? I placed the temperature probe within the slots on the left side of the unit.



Thanks,


David


----------



## a1usedcomp

Can somone tell me the difference between the AVM-50 and the D2 is one better than the other ?


----------



## SimonNo10

Just installed firmware 3.09 without an issue. My test disc is Thor on BD and my god the improvement in the whole soundstage is clearly noticeable. Rears are much improved as is the front stage and bass so basically everything. Now I was listening to it at -18 which is what I always listen to this movie at (just reloaded my previous ARC calibration) and to me it sounded louder. Not sure why (is it due to the 7.1 DTS-HD fix possibly) but now I'm interested in Macca's testing of the levels now.


All I can say is this firmware is what we have been waiting for, the locking onto the signal after changing chapters is almost instant (quicker now) as is the bringing up of the main D2v menu. Thanks to Anthem for looking after their clients and just in time for Avengers next week (Australian release is 29th Aug).


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22332994
> 
> 
> Just installed firmware 3.09 without an issue. My test disc is Thor on BD and my god the improvement in the whole soundstage is clearly noticeable. Rears are much improved as is the front stage and bass so basically everything. Now I was listening to it at -18 which is what I always listen to this movie at (just reloaded my previous ARC calibration) and to me it sounded louder. Not sure why (is it due to the 7.1 DTS-HD fix possibly) but now I'm interested in Macca's testing of the levels now.
> 
> All I can say is this firmware is what we have been waiting for, the locking onto the signal after changing chapters is almost instant (quicker now) as is the bringing up of the main D2v menu. Thanks to Anthem for looking after their clients and just in time for Avengers next week (Australian release is 29th Aug).



before this fix, thor was 6db louder when my anthem was decoding vs my Oppo bdp 83 player. Don't know why, but it aint constanly. theise 6 db i also noticed on Ice age 3 , sin city , and more...can't remeber them all 

but on Captain America the levels are the same, bitstream from the player vs LPCM. So Maby there is som flag on theise Disc in DTS regards??


----------



## wingnut4772

Is the D2v ( 3D) something that will be eventually upgradable to a 4k unit should that ever catch on?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Unlikely unless you are happy with just "pass through" as now with 3D.


The video processor is not designed for 4K, and replacing the video board would be a major cost. I.E., it would be a new unit (perhaps via trade-in), not an upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22333068
> 
> 
> before this fix, thor was 6db louder when my anthem was decoding vs my Oppo bdp 83 player. Don't know why, but it aint constanly. theise 6 db i also noticed on Ice age 3 , sin city , and more...can't remeber them all
> 
> but on Captain America the levels are the same, bitstream from the player vs LPCM. So Maby there is som flag on theise Disc in DTS regards??



Hmm perhaps. I've always used Bitstream but this time Thor did seem louder at same level.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *a1usedcomp*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22332978
> 
> 
> Can somone tell me the difference between the AVM-50 and the D2 is one better than the other ?



The difference is solely in audio.


Early in this thread, several people took the time to give both units a try, and there was close to 100% agreement the original D2 sounded enough better than the original AVM 50 that these folks could hear the difference. This was true even for folks who ended up deciding to save money and get the AVM 50. I.E., the D2 sounded better, but not enough better to them to want to spend the extra money because, really, the AVM 50 is no slouch for audio.


NOTE: Adding ARC is a hardware upgrade for the original AVM 50. DO NOT GET an AVM 50 that does not already HAVE the ARC upgrade, because I'm not sure you can still get the upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22332574
> 
> 
> Hi Bob:
> 
> 
> I measured the internal temperature of my D2v in its rack and it measued anywhere from 100F (37.8C) to 110F(43.3C) depending on the time of day. Is this normal? If not, what is the typical or safe are of operation for this unit? I placed the temperature probe within the slots on the left side of the unit.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David



I've no idea what's normal for the internal temperature. Keep in mind those vents are SUPPOSED to be warm because that's where the heat comes out. If you have your unit in an enclosed, space a better measure is the temperature of the surfaces of the enclosure facing the unit, for example the under-side of whatever's above it. If those are not warming up too much then the heat leaving the Anthem is dissipating as designed. I.E., no problems.


My rule of thumb is that the surface above the Anthem should be not much more than 10 degrees warmer than ambient room temperature.


If those surfaces are heating up a lot then you have your Anthem in an oven, and that's not good. Double the space, or open it more to air, or add a fan.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

I have a fan on my D2V. On my amps too. Cool equipment is happy equipment.


----------



## dmusoke

Hi Bob:


I measured the internal temperature of my D2v in its rack and it measued anywhere from 100F (37.8C) to 110F(43.3C) depending on the time of day. Is this normal? If not, what is the typical or safe are of operation for this unit? I placed the temperature probe within the slots on the left side of the unit.


Thanks,

David



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22333228
> 
> 
> I've no idea what's normal for the internal temperature. Keep in mind those vents are SUPPOSED to be warm because that's where the heat comes out. If you have your unit in an enclosed, space a better measure is the temperature of the surfaces of the enclosure facing the unit, for example the under-side of whatever's above it. If those are not warming up too much then the heat leaving the Anthem is dissipating as designed. I.E., no problems.
> 
> My rule of thumb is that the surface above the Anthem should be not much more than 10 degrees warmer than ambient room temperature.
> 
> If those surfaces are heating up a lot then you have your Anthem in an oven, and that's not good. Double the space, or open it more to air, or add a fan.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22333279
> 
> 
> I have a fan on my D2V. On my amps too. Cool equipment is happy equipment.



Thanks all. This is what Anthem said to me below:

David,



Just asked engineering. They said it seems normal.


If you’re worried you can always have extra fans blowing air out of the rack.



Andrew Cirurgiao

Technical Support


I read a paper on thermo management from MiddleAtlantic and they said the maximum temp should be 85F. For every 10 degree change afterthat reduces the device reliability by 40%. This is what frightened me the most. I have a 35CFM (cubic feet per minute) fan on it now but plan to change to a new 128CFM fan once it arrives.


When i asked what the maximum safe operating tempearture of the D2v was, the response was:

The answer can't be summarized with one number. We test our designs by monitoring several points inside the unit simultaneously, no fans.


Thermal protection is built in, and a message is displayed just before the unit shuts down.


The last time anyone here got a report of this happening in the field was many years ago and not only was it from a country a lot closer to the equator than the US, but the unit was completely enclosed in a piece of furniture.


A fan was in there too but it did nothing because no air was being exchanged - the air it was blowing into the unit was the same temperature as the air being taken away from it, in other words it was the same air.




To summarize, the general answer is that if the D2v's thermal protection isn't engaging, the parts inside the unit are probably well within their safe operating range, however, the cooler you can keep your electronics, any electronics, the longer they'll last, regardless of whether it has thermal protection.


----------



## steven2583

ARC question. The subwoofer cut-off that ARC sets to roll. The LFE frequency that are high then the cut-off are rerouted to the front speakers? I'm thinking yes but just wanted to verify? Example I have it set to 100hz. Anything over 100Hz will go to the front speakers?


----------



## EricE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38100#post_22332361
> 
> 
> ^ Yeah the long press buttons are currently all in Harmony's definition for the Statement D2v. On the other hand the input selectors are broken and the arrow keys, although they work, are slower than they should be.
> 
> --Bob



Bob or anyone else using a Harmony... Is there a reason that the volume up/down control is set to 2db not 0.5db as the original Anthem remote?


I've finally moved into the D2 world and have been setting it up the past few days.


----------



## Thxtheater

Hi Eric,


If we're talking about the same thing (I use a harmony with a 50v) if you press the volume and hold, then it does jump faster. However, if you press it once, then it moves in 0.5db increments with my implementation.


Theo


----------



## wingnut4772

Uploaded new firmware and no problems.


Quick question:


I tinkered with my subs ( had to replace one ) and reran ARC. ARC set my subwoofer to 80 ( I know it's not a crossover ) where it was previously 105. What kind of changes would cause ARC to lower it ? Is that a good thing? Bad thing ?


I fiddled with them using the output on my SMS1 to get a very good Pre ARC room response. The only real change I made was setting my RR sub's crossover frequency control to about 43hz. Doing this made my in room response the best I've seen it ( on the SMS1 graph) but I'm really just fiddling to see what happens.


----------



## SimonNo10

So has anyone else installed the new firmware and noticed any difference?


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22334966
> 
> 
> So has anyone else installed the new firmware and noticed any difference?



I'm still toying with it. Haven't really noticed anything yet. I'll put in a movie later.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EricE*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22334689
> 
> 
> Bob or anyone else using a Harmony... Is there a reason that the volume up/down control is set to 2db not 0.5db as the original Anthem remote?
> 
> 
> I've finally moved into the D2 world and have been setting it up the past few days.



In your Harmony configuration, go to the Devices section and Troubleshoot the Anthem. Select the item for commands happen too many times. It will bring up the key repeat count value which is how many times the command is sent for each button push. Change that to 0. Some devices won't respond to remote commands unless they are sent more than once. The Anthem does not need that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22334599
> 
> 
> ARC question. The subwoofer cut-off that ARC sets to roll. The LFE frequency that are high then the cut-off are rerouted to the front speakers? I'm thinking yes but just wanted to verify? Example I have it set to 100hz. Anything over 100Hz will go to the front speakers?



No. LFE above 100Hz is attenuated and lost. Mind you there isn't much LFE up there.


None of the LFE content goes to the fronts when you have a subwoofer in the configuration.

--Bob


----------



## steven2583

So ARC is telling me 120 for the subwoofer cut-off. If I don't want to lose anything I should have a higher setting for my Movie setting. Music setting I only have 2 channel music so having it at 100 shouldn't matter because it doesn't get anything unless it's redirected from the mains which I have set at 60. That seems like a design flaw to me that LFE would be thrown away. I would think there would be some option in keep it and rerouting it to the mains.



Has any one out there ever checked what frequency range most movies send to the sub?


----------



## chiliman

The search function here is maddening. Can someone point me to the ARC instructions for setting up with 2 subwoofers. Just set up 2 new SVS PB12+ to replace a single PB Ultra.


Bob...if you're out there...help....


Thanks

Randy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22335345
> 
> 
> So ARC is telling me 120 for the subwoofer cut-off. If I don't want to lose anything I should have a higher setting for my Movie setting. Music setting I only have 2 channel music so having it at 100 shouldn't matter because it doesn't get anything unless it's redirected from the mains which I have set at 60. That seems like a design flaw to me that LFE would be thrown away. I would think there would be some option in keep it and rerouting it to the mains.
> 
> 
> 
> Has any one out there ever checked what frequency range most movies send to the sub?



LFE in movie content is gone by 120Hz. The 120 cutoff you have for Movies is fine.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chiliman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22335632
> 
> 
> The search function here is maddening. Can someone point me to the ARC instructions for setting up with 2 subwoofers. Just set up 2 new SVS PB12+ to replace a single PB Ultra.
> 
> 
> Bob...if you're out there...help....
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Randy



Measure the distance from ARC mic position #1 to each sub. Use the average of those two distances as your Subwoofer distance setting. Put in normal distance settings for your other speakers.


Set "1 Sub" in your Speaker configuration, even though you have two. When using ARC you must set "1 Sub" if you have Subwoofers.


Zero out all the lines in Setup > Level Calibration. Use the internal test tones to set the Test Level line to yield 75dB SPL (the noise will be coming from Left Front). Go to either of the Subwoofer lines but leave that line at 0.


With only one sub turned on, adjust the volume knob on that sub to 72 (not 75) dB SPL.. Switch and do the same with just the other sub powered. When combined they will yield roughly 75dB SPL which is close enough for ARC to work with.


(All the lines in Level Calibration stay at 0 except for Test Level, which ARC will use.)


With one sub powered at a time, adjust the Phase and Polarity controls on that sub for best match with the Left Front speaker. You can use the FM tuner set to produce the hiss between stations (set Stereo audio surround mode so audio only goes to Left Front/Right Front/Sub). Adjust Polarity/Phase (controls ON THE SUB) for maximum bass in that hiss. See the Setup section of tutorial post links in the first post of this thread for more hints on this.


Repeat with just the other sub powered. When each Sub is in proper phase with the fronts then they are also in phase with each other.


All the preliminaries are now done.


Power up both subs and do an ARC Measurement pass as normal. Look at the red Measured curve for Subwoofer to see how well your two subs are operating together without producing peaks and dips. If there are still substantial problems you may need to shift one or both subs and redo the above preliminaries. The Quick Measure tool in the ARC Tools menu can be used with one sub powered at a time to get a feel for how shifting the sub alters its uncorrected output.


If the red Measured curve doesn't look too bad, and the green Calculated curve shows that ARC has produced results close to the Target curve then you are in good shape. As a final check, the volume trim ARC Uploads into Level Calibration when you do the Upload should be within a few dB either side of 0.

--Bob


----------



## chiliman

THANKS. You're awesome!


Randy


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22335680
> 
> 
> Measure the distance from ARC mic position #1 to each sub. Use the average of those two distances as your Subwoofer distance setting. Put in normal distance settings for your other speakers.
> 
> Set "1 Sub" in your Speaker configuration, even though you have two. When using ARC you must set "1 Sub" if you have Subwoofers.
> 
> Zero out all the lines in Setup > Level Calibration. Use the internal test tones to set the Test Level line to yield 75dB SPL (the noise will be coming from Left Front). Go to either of the Subwoofer lines but leave that line at 0.
> 
> With only one sub turned on, adjust the volume knob on that sub to 72 (not 75) dB SPL.. Switch and do the same with just the other sub powered. When combined they will yield roughly 75dB SPL which is close enough for ARC to work with.
> 
> (All the lines in Level Calibration stay at 0 except for Test Level, which ARC will use.)
> 
> With one sub powered at a time, adjust the Phase and Polarity controls on that sub for best match with the Left Front speaker. You can use the FM tuner set to produce the hiss between stations. Adjust for maximum bass in that hiss. See the Setup section of tutorial post links in the first post of this thread for more hints on this.
> 
> Repeat with just the other sub powered.
> 
> All the preliminaries are not done.
> 
> Power up both subs and do an ARC Measurement pass as normal. Look at the red Measured curve for Subwoofer to see how well your two subs are operating together without producing peaks and dips. If there are still substantial problems you may need to shift one or both subs and redo the above preliminaries. The Quick Measure tool in the ARC Tools menu can be used with one sub powered at a time to get a feel for how shifting the sub alters its uncorrected output.
> 
> If the red Measured curve doesn't look too bad, and the green Calculated curve shows that ARC has produced results close to the Target curve then you are in good shape. As a final check, the volume trim ARC Uploads into Level Calibration when you do the Upload should be within a few dB either side of 0.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

So Bob have you had a chance to test any 7.1 Blurays (I know you have a 5.1 setup like me), and noticed any level differences? I've only tried Thor and it sounded awesome but it did seem to be louder at the same volume I normally listen to it at.


Very keen to hear others impressions of this new firmware seeing it's gone public and has pretty much most fixes that we have all been waiting for.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22335724
> 
> 
> So Bob have you had a chance to test any 7.1 Blurays (I know you have a 5.1 setup like me), and noticed any level differences? I've only tried Thor and it sounded awesome but it did seem to be louder at the same volume I normally listen to it at.
> 
> 
> Very keen to hear others impressions of this new firmware seeing it's gone public and has pretty much most fixes that we have all been waiting for.



All DTS-HD MA sounds a bit louder than the LPCM alternative, but the channels appear to be properly balanced against each other either way -- i.e., just adjust main volume as needed. I've not noticed any issue on specific discs.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22335873
> 
> 
> All DTS-HD MA sounds a bit louder than the LPCM alternative, but the channels appear to be properly balanced against each other either way -- i.e., just adjust main volume as needed. I've not noticed any issue on specific discs.
> 
> --Bob



Yes I've always known that but after listening to Thor last night it was definatly louder with 3.09 at the same volume with the previous firmware I had installed which was 3.03. Anyway will be keen to read Macca's feedback on the level testing. Thanks Bob.


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22335345
> 
> 
> So ARC is telling me 120 for the subwoofer cut-off. If I don't want to lose anything I should have a higher setting for my Movie setting. Music setting I only have 2 channel music so having it at 100 shouldn't matter because it doesn't get anything unless it's redirected from the mains which I have set at 60. That seems like a design flaw to me that LFE would be thrown away. I would think there would be some option in keep it and rerouting it to the mains.
> 
> Has any one out there ever checked what frequency range most movies send to the sub?



ARC does treat bass differently compared to other processors.


Not only does it throw away any LFE above whatever it sets as the sub cut-off, but if it sets the mains to 60Hz and the sub to 120Hz (for example) it will roll off the mains at 60Hz and have the sub overlapping them up to 120hz.


As far as I've been able to work out, it doesn't treat the LFE as separate channel.


Most other prepros would attempt to do a crossover at 60Hz for your L/R main channel signal and run the LFE separately.


Anthem seem to see this as a feature rather than a bug. I've done a bunch of measurements and this overlapping bass does indeed measure smoother than forcing it (via Targets) to do a more traditional crossover. In fact, in my room I get better response truning ARC Off than I do when forcing it cross both sub and mains at a specified point (40Hz in my case).


I posted the measurements here a while back:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22225485


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22335938
> 
> 
> Yes I've always known that but after listening to Thor last night it was definatly louder with 3.09 at the same volume with the previous firmware I had installed which was 3.03. Anyway will be keen to read Macca's feedback on the level testing. Thanks Bob.



i will try to install the new software, and then messaure the difference , bitstream vs LPCM on Thor. last time the difference was 6 db - bitstream was the loudest one.


this is the first time i have to install new software - is there anything i shout bee aware off??? or is it allmost the same as upload ARC?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22335345
> 
> 
> So ARC is telling me 120 for the subwoofer cut-off. If I don't want to lose anything I should have a higher setting for my Movie setting. Music setting I only have 2 channel music so having it at 100 shouldn't matter because it doesn't get anything unless it's redirected from the mains which I have set at 60. That seems like a design flaw to me that LFE would be thrown away. I would think there would be some option in keep it and rerouting it to the mains.
> 
> Has any one out there ever checked what frequency range most movies send to the sub?



as i recall there is a brickwall at 120 hz on the LFE track


infact THX recomend a lowpass filter at 80hz24db.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22336173
> 
> 
> i will try to install the new software, and then messaure the difference , bitstream vs LPCM on Thor. last time the difference was 6 db - bitstream was the loudest one.
> 
> this is the first time i have to install new software - is there anything i shout bee aware off??? or is it allmost the same as upload ARC?



I will let Bob answer that one in more detail but it is very simple if you follow the instructions. What firmware are you running at the moment? So you've never installed firmware since purchasing the unit?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22336166
> 
> 
> Not only does it throw away any LFE above whatever it sets as the sub cut-off, but if it sets the mains to 60Hz and the sub to 120Hz (for example) it will roll off the mains at 60Hz and have the sub overlapping them up to 120hz. As far as I've been able to work out, it doesn't treat the LFE as separate channel.



When LFE Bypass Xover is set to Yes in the speaker configuration menu, LFE is not run through the crossover. Behind-the-scenes signal processing addresses comb filtering that would have resulted from mixing an unfiltered signal with its filtered counterpart.


When ARC is on, LFE Bypass Xover is in effect regardless of the menu setting. As the info box in the Targets panel says, the sub graph shows the correction range, not what the crossover inside the processor is doing.


This whole topic was discussed in detail on this thread last March and at previous times.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22335645
> 
> 
> LFE in movie content is gone by 120Hz. The 120 cutoff you have for Movies is fine.
> 
> --Bob



My latest ARC calibration set my Sub to 80. Should I change it to 120?


----------



## EricE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22335273
> 
> 
> In your Harmony configuration, go to the Devices section and Troubleshoot the Anthem. Select the item for commands happen too many times. It will bring up the key repeat count value which is how many times the command is sent for each button push. Change that to 0. Some devices won't respond to remote commands unless they are sent more than once. The Anthem does not need that.
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob and Theo for the quick replies!

I'll try it out tonight and see if it fixes the volume setting.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22336508
> 
> 
> I will let Bob answer that one in more detail but it is very simple if you follow the instructions. What firmware are you running at the moment? So you've never installed firmware since purchasing the unit?


My update(from previous official fw) took about 30min. Seemed to stall for about 10 minutes at the video processor update but Bob mentioned that's normal as I hadn't installed any of the beta fw.


So if anyone's updating from the last official fw just let it run, it will take a while.


Will get into those tests next week but anecdotally it's much more user friendly, faster hdmi switching and signal acquisition. Enjoying bitstreaming again. All round feels much more stable.......top job anthem!


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22336527
> 
> 
> My latest ARC calibration set my Sub to 80. Should I change it to 120?


I run mine at 80Hz........but that's just me










Cheers


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22336613
> 
> 
> I run mine at 80Hz........but that's just me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers



It's not the crossover though. It's the cutoff.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22336622
> 
> 
> It's not the crossover though. It's the cutoff.


Yes, but it's generally where the crossover ends up being set. Just check the bass management settings.......mine are all set to 80Hz, including LFE.


Personally I don't want my subs putting out up to 120Hz, I'd rather discard that stuff and set the lot to 80Hz


Cheers


----------



## wingnut4772

It's all very confusing to me. I read on another thread that having ARC set it at 120 is desirable. I'm a little lost.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ ARC likely picked 80 for a reason. You'll have to post your charts if you want folks here to help you figure that out. Your sub may not be capable of going higher, or you may need to reposition it. The most important part of LFE is 30 to 80 Hz. And working to go even lower than 30 is more important than working to go higher than 80.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22336949
> 
> 
> It's all very confusing to me. I read on another thread that having ARC set it at 120 is desirable. I'm a little lost.


Desirable if you want your subs to play all LFE content up to 120Hz.....I find that undesirable due to the localization that comes with those higher frequencies, that's the main reason THX recommend setting the LFE LPF to 80Hz. In any case much of that information is already in the main channels, it's not nessisary to keep it. Personally I've tried it both ways and to my ears I prefer it set to 80Hz.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22336173
> 
> 
> i will try to install the new software, and then messaure the difference , bitstream vs LPCM on Thor. last time the difference was 6 db - bitstream was the loudest one.
> 
> 
> this is the first time i have to install new software - is there anything i shout bee aware off??? or is it allmost the same as upload ARC?



When you run the installer it will put up text reminding you of things you need to do first. If you haven't done those then exit the installer, do them, and restart the installer.


The preliminaries are:


1) Save User Settings

2) Jot down your Video Source Adjust menu settings for each Source.

3) Reload Factory defaults

4) Power down

5) Remove wall power (not just turn Off) from your Display and any HDMI Source devices.


Then run the installer and be patient if it looks like it is stuck in loop.


After the install finishes, power up and Load Saved User Settings (using the Front Panel to see the menu). Power down again and restore power to your Display and Sources. Power up and check your Video Source Adjust Menu settings. In MOST cases they will be intact, but if not matching what you wrote down above, fix them.


It is not supposed to be necessary, but since the wire is hooked up anyway, my practice at this point is to re-Upload my existing ARC solution just in case. After that, check your Setup menu, which should all be correct already, and then Save User and Installer Settings to make sure what's in those 2 memories properly reflects your setup now just in case they were out of date.


Power down.


You are done.


Figure about an hour including the ARC Upload if your video board needs reprogramming. About half an hour otherwise.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater

I installed 3.09 yesterday. I upgraded from 3.0. I'm running a 50v.


I played Thor and for me, in my system and in my setup I did indeed notice a difference--specifically in the smoothness and ambiance of the surrounds. I tested briefly with Thor and with Star Wars III. Chapter 2 with the opening space battle scene where a star destroyer is blown up and they fly through it is a good if not spectacular test of the entire system's ability to handle a moving, ambient sound field. If there are any timbre, timing, or tonal issues, you'll hear it right away in that scene.


So I give the 3.09 a thumbs up in that regard.


I didn't do any level testing so I can't comment on that.


Regards,

Theo


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22336949
> 
> 
> It's all very confusing to me. I read on another thread that having ARC set it at 120 is desirable. I'm a little lost.



In addition to the above comments I think the key in what you quote is having *ARC set it* to 120 and not just changing what ARC sets to 120, calculating and uploading. Positioning of the sub is the key.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22337069
> 
> 
> In addition to the above comments I think the key in what you quote is having *ARC set it* to 120 and not just changing what ARC sets to 120, calculating and uploading. Positioning of the sub is the key.




Yes. And my initial question was why the heck would ARC change it from 105 to 80. Subs are located in the exact same spots. The only change was my RR low pass is set at @43 now.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22337252
> 
> 
> Yes. And my initial question was why the heck would ARC change it from 105 to 80. Subs are located in the exact same spots. The only change was my RR low pass is set at @43 now.



If you want help with questions like this you'll need to post your charts and ARC's Targets window.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22337034
> 
> 
> Desirable if you want your subs to play all LFE content up to 120Hz.....I find that undesirable due to the localization that comes with those higher frequencies, that's the main reason THX recommend setting the LFE LPF to 80Hz. In any case much of that information is already in the main channels, it's not nessisary to keep it. Personally I've tried it both ways and to my ears I prefer it set to 80Hz.
> 
> Cheers


It's true that your sub will play content up to 120Hz if ARC set your sub's cutoff to 120Hz. However, you really have to look at what your crossover is set to because your sub's graph will reflect the crossover more that it will the cutoff. For example and to make this easy, let's say that the crossover is set to 60Hz for all of the speakers. So, now if you look at your sub's graph, you will see that ARC begins to attenuate the sound from the sub from 60Hz on up, meaning that all frequencies above 60Hz will not be played as loud and with the same authority as the frequencies 60Hz and below. So, in this example, your other speakers are really carrying the load for the bass more than your sub is. Now, your sub is still taking part and playing the frequencies from 60Hz up to 120Hz; but, the volume from your sub will not be as loud. So, in essence, the sub is just providing a little more bottom to the 60Hz to 120Hz frequencies without fully taking over the load which gives an overall fuller sound.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Harmony Remote saga continued....*


I'm still waiting for Harmony Level 2 support to attempt to fix the issues in their current definition for the D2v. Evidently it takes them a week to get to such stuff these days.


i've discovered that I can kinda sorta work around the problem by adding the appropriate 3-button sequence to the end of the Enter Activity stuff. To do this, go to the Activity and Review Settings. It will bring up a list of what it is doing as it goes into the Activity. Select that Yes these are correct but I want to add additional controls.


This will walk you through several pages of settings (which you just accept as is), and then bring you back to a similar display of what happens when you Enter the activity and when you Leave the activity.


At this point you can add three commands to be sent to the D2v at the end of the Enter Activity list. For example add a THX then a Display then a ToneBypass, which is the names in their definition for the button sequence THX-8-9, which is the Selector for TV1.


Now this will work after everything is powered up without you doing anything special. The funky stuff they are doing now to try to get to the right Source will simply be superseded by this 3-button sequence that follows.


But on power up -- particularly in this V3.09 firmware -- you need to get this 3-button sequence sent VERY QUICKLY after sending Power ON or you will trigger the failure case (front panel goes black briefly, and Selector is ignored). The alternative is to build in an 11 second delay to wait for the D2v to fully power up, but that's no fun.


So you need to reduce the Power On Delay for the D2v to next to nothing -- e.g., 200ms. In addition you have to consider what ELSE is taking up time before those 3-buttons can be sent. So you may need to reduce the Power ON Delay and also the Inter-Device Delay for the other things that are also involved in this activity. Obviously there's a trade-off here as to whether reducing those delays make the use of the remote less reliable in other cases.


If you can reduce the whole power on sequence enough then those 3 buttons will be sent to the D2v early enough after its own power on to be processed.


It helps if you have a handle on how the Harmony organizes what it sends. It will power on devices in the order listed. There's another Settings option in the Activity where you can force whatever order works best. It will delay sending the NEXT command to a device until after its individual power on delay -- but only if the device actually has to be turned on. It will also delay sending a command to any OTHER device until after the Inter-device delay for the prior device. Within those two limits it will try to send commands to ALL the devices simultaneously. So for example, it will send power on to 3 devices, with the Inter-device Delay between each -- NOT the Power ON Delay. For that set of devices it will wait the shortest of the Power ON Delays and then start sending any subsequent commands to THAT device while still waiting out the Power On Delays for the other devices. When the next shortest Power On Delay expires it will now be able to send commands to TWO devices -- allowing for the Inter-device Delay whenever it wants to switch which of them it is sending to. When the third (longest) Power On Delay expires it will do the same mix now among 3 devices.


So to send stuff quickly to the D2v after its own Power ON you need to shorten its own Power On Delay and ALSO the Inter-device Delays for the OTHER devices participating in that activity. A third delay -- the Inter-Key Delay for the D2v -- says how long it waits between sending sequential commands to the D2v. That can be quite small for the D2v -- e.g., 100ms.


And then there's the Key Repeat Count referred to in my post above which controls how long it takes to send even ONE button -- because with a repeat more than 0 it is sending the IR command multiple times. For the D2v that can and should be set to 0.


If you get all this "just so", then the workaround about adding in the 3-buttons will work for switching activities *AND* for selecting the proper starting Source during power up.


Now, if you use the Help function on the remote, it won't know anything about the 3-buttons you added. But the funky Selector stuff Harmony is CURRENTLY using in the D2v definition (e.g., send TV button enough times to cycle around to where you want to be) works well enough to make Help work. You just may have to say that No, it's not at the right input yet, multiple times.


Are we having fun yet?


We'll see what happens when they finally prod Level 2 into adding the real, 3-button sequences in as Source selectors.


Last time I had Harmony do this (back in 2008) it took them several tries to get it right. One big stumbling block is that there is yet another delay, the Input Delay, which is waited out after changing to a new Source (to give the D2v time to do it). What Harmony had coded was causing the Input Delay to get sent after EACH of the 3 buttons -- meaning the 3-button selector timed out before the 3rd button ever got sent.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22337276
> 
> 
> If you want help with questions like this you'll need to post your charts and ARC's Targets window.
> 
> --Bob



Fine. Be that way.










I'll post them this evening if I remember how.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You also have to learn the secret handshake...









--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

  
 


Ok. Here are the latest. The subs are in same physical location. The phases are changed to 180 ( all subs ) and the RR is LP at approx. 43 ( which, IF I believe my SMS1 helped with a null in that range ).


Here is my prior ARC:
 
 



Which looks better and why?


----------



## jayray











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22338632
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok. Here are the latest. The subs are in same physical location. The phases are changed to 180 ( all subs ) and the RR is LP at approx. 43 ( which, IF I believe my SMS1 helped with a null in that range ).
> 
> Here is my prior ARC:
> 
> 
> 
> Which looksw better and why?



The second one is flat from 100Hz to 20Hz which is what you want. Look at how your measured curve changed.

John


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22337252
> 
> 
> The only change was my RR low pass is set at @43 now.



Sorry, I'm jumping into the discussion late but if the above means what I think it does, it would explain why the upper end is suddenly missing from the newer sub graph.


In that case, disable the sub's filtering as much as possible by flattening all eq functions if it has any, and bypass its crossover, then re-run ARC. If the sub doesn't have a crossover bypass switch, setting it to at least 150 Hz is usually close enough.


In general, the first pass of ARC should be without any other EQ or crossover.


If you haven't, use the Flat setting under Advanced Targets / Subwoofer High Pass Order since your 20 Hz isn't rolling off.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22339223
> 
> 
> Sorry, I'm jumping into the discussion late but if the above means what I think it does, it would explain why the upper end is suddenly missing from the newer sub graph.
> 
> In that case, disable the sub's filtering as much as possible by flattening all eq functions if it has any, and bypass its crossover, then re-run ARC. If the sub doesn't have a crossover bypass switch, setting it to at least 150 Hz is usually close enough.
> 
> In general, the first pass of ARC should be without any other EQ or crossover.
> 
> If you haven't, use the Flat setting under Advanced Targets / Subwoofer High Pass Order since your 20 Hz isn't rolling off.



Thanks. I was advised not to use the Flat setting since my subs don't have built in protection.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22337614
> 
> 
> It's true that your sub will play content up to 120Hz if ARC set your sub's cutoff to 120Hz. However, you really have to look at what your crossover is set to because your sub's graph will reflect the crossover more that it will the cutoff. For example and to make this easy, let's say that the crossover is set to 60Hz for all of the speakers. So, now if you look at your sub's graph, you will see that ARC begins to attenuate the sound from the sub from 60Hz on up, meaning that all frequencies above 60Hz will not be played as loud and with the same authority as the frequencies 60Hz and below. So, in this example, your other speakers are really carrying the load for the bass more than your sub is. Now, your sub is still taking part and playing the frequencies from 60Hz up to 120Hz; but, the volume from your sub will not be as loud. So, in essence, the sub is just providing a little more bottom to the 60Hz to 120Hz frequencies without fully taking over the load which gives an overall fuller sound.


I was referring to the LFE low pass filter, in which case that information above the LFE LPF is not redirected to the mains, it is discarded.


With regard to the main channels crossover, which redirects bass from the mains to the sub, you are correct. The decision of where to set the crossover is dependaant on the capability of those main speakers and the subwoofer.

In most cases 80Hz is a good crossover point as most subs are capable above that and most mains are capable below that. It's low enough that is reduces the localization of the sub since frequencies above 100Hz become increasingly localizable. And it's high enough that it gives the majority of the power hungry bass to the subs, which are generally more capable and positioned to deliver a better result.


Btw, I set all ARC's cutoffs to 80Hz and then, after uploading ARC, check the bass management setting to ensure all crossovers are set to 80Hz......in my case they are.


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22338632
> 
> 
> Ok. Here are the latest. The subs are in same physical location. The phases are changed to 180 ( all subs ) and the RR is LP at approx. 43 ( which, IF I believe my SMS1 helped with a null in that range ).
> 
> Here is my prior ARC:
> 
> 
> Which looks better and why?


This one looks better, as Jayray mantioned it results in a flatter response.


The reason why ARC set the newer result to 80Hz is because that(if I deduced correctly) low pass filter at 43Hz you placed on one of the subs is reducing their combined output from 50Hz up.


As Nick mentioned, disable all other EQ and run ARC. If that prior graph is with all other EQ disabled it's quite reasonable.


Also I'm assuming you switched the phase to 180 to blend in with the mains, a better method is adjusting delay.......there's a write up on here somewhere of how to do it.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Crossovers ARC Uploads will always match the Cutoffs you select EXCEPT in the case of the Subwoofer.


There's an entirely separate question whether ARC can construct a quality solution if you go manually selecting the Cutoff values. It will do the best it can, but it is easy for you to over-constrain the problem if you fiddle unwisely.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

Thanks for the replies. I set them back the way they were before.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22339948
> 
> 
> The Crossovers ARC Uploads will always match the Cutoffs you select EXCEPT in the case of the Subwoofer.
> 
> There's an entirely separate question whether ARC can construct a quality solution if you go manually selecting the Cutoff values. It will do the best it can, but it is easy for you to over-constrain the problem if you fiddle unwisely.
> 
> --Bob



Anthem has said "you're on your own" if you do.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Harmony Remote Saga Continues.....*


I spent some quality time on the phone with Harmony Level 2 support, and they tried various changes to get the 3-button Source Selector's working but were unable to get anything beyond the THX button to be sent.


I explained to them that not only had they got this working for me back in 2008, but that they got it working for new customers posting here as recently as a few months ago.


So they are going off to research the problem further.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22340242
> 
> 
> Anthem has said "you're on your own" if you do.
> 
> John


And that's fine if you know what you're doing.


I'm not suggesting to arbitrarily set everything to 80Hz. I would suggest though that if ARC has automatically selected cutoffs for the mains at or below 80Hz and at or above 80Hz for the subwoofer, adjusting them all to 80Hz can be in most cases beneficial and at least non detrimental.


Cheers


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22340704
> 
> 
> And that's fine if you know what you're doing.
> 
> I'm not suggesting to arbitrarily set everything to 80Hz. I would suggest though that if ARC has automatically selected cutoffs for the mains at or below 80Hz and at or above 80Hz for the subwoofer, adjusting them all to 80Hz can be in most cases beneficial and at least non detrimental.
> 
> Cheers



My sub cutoff for my sub is 120 and I have no localise issues at all. Mains crossover is at 60 and sub crossover is 60.

John


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38130#post_22334966
> 
> 
> So has anyone else installed the new firmware and noticed any difference?



I have an AVM50v and 5.1 set-up, I've just installed 3.09 and noticed no difference from 3.03 which I installed a couple of weeks ago, BUT, I did notice a big difference when I installed 3.03. The greatest difference was the level of bass across all my sources, blu-ray, DVD, Satellite and 2 channel music. There was definitely more bass coming through than prior to 3.03, in fact on 2 channel music it had become a bit 'boomy'. I'd previously upped the room gain on my ARC setting for Music to get more bass, when I loaded 3.09 I reloaded ARC using its default settings (with lower room gain) and the bass sounds good again.


For blu-ray/DVDs I was using 5.1 analogue inputs for sound as I was never happy with the LPCM over HDMI and wanted to bypass the 7.1. decoding issues. With 3.09 I've done a comparison between 5.1 analogue, LPCM over HDMI and bitstream over HDMI and now cannot hear any difference (except for the volume level when using bitstream). I'm planning on staying with the 5.1 analogue input as my blu ray player upsamples to 24/192khz (also it means there's not a massive volume difference when I switch between sources). Has anyone got an opinion on whether this is a good/bad idea as opposed to using bitstream, given that I cannot actually hear a difference between them?


With 3.09 everything seems to be great , everything just sounds better.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38160#post_22340508
> 
> *Harmony Remote Saga Continues.....*
> 
> I spent some quality time on the phone with Harmony Level 2 support, and they tried various changes to get the 3-button Source Selector's working but were unable to get anything beyond the THX button to be sent.
> 
> I explained to them that not only had they got this working for me back in 2008, but that they got it working for new customers posting here as recently as a few months ago.
> 
> So they are going off to research the problem further.
> 
> --Bob



Will Harmony update their database for everybody once this fix is done?


----------



## wingnut4772

DTS HD MA bitstream still isn't right with the firmware update. Not sure if it was supposed to help that or not. I switched back to PCM.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22341082
> 
> 
> DTS HD MA bitstream still isn't right with the firmware update. Not sure if it was supposed to help that or not. I switched back to PCM.



What problem dó you have?


----------



## wingnut4772

The rear surrounds seem to heavy and unbalanced compared to the sides. When I switch to PCM everything is balanced and natural.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22341239
> 
> 
> The rear surrounds seem to heavy and unbalanced compared to the sides. When I switch to PCM everything is balanced and natural.


Is that when playing a 5.1 or a 7.1 HDMA program? If 5.1, with PLIIx? If 7.1, can you confirm with a test disc (AIX or Disney) and compare SPL with a meter, between PCM and bitstream?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22341239
> 
> 
> The rear surrounds seem to heavy and unbalanced compared to the sides. When I switch to PCM everything is balanced and natural.



i also use PLIIx to all 5.1 contend . And i have no problem at all - installed software 3.09 last night, and all seams to work fantastic. the unit now seams to work a lot more smoother and fast - fanstastic


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22340704
> 
> 
> And that's fine if you know what you're doing.
> 
> I'm not suggesting to arbitrarily set everything to 80Hz. I would suggest though that if ARC has automatically selected cutoffs for the mains at or below 80Hz and at or above 80Hz for the subwoofer, adjusting them all to 80Hz can be in most cases beneficial and at least non detrimental.
> 
> Cheers



" Paging Dr. MACCA .... paging Dr. MACCA. Wake up from your slumber and please present your test level data stat !!! "







.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22341981
> 
> 
> i also use PLIIx to all 5.1 contend . And i have no problem at all - installed software 3.09 last night, and all seams to work fantastic. the unit now seams to work a lot more smoother and fast - fanstastic



Peter ... have you verified these results with test data as you did in the past? If not, please kindly do so







.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22340704
> 
> 
> And that's fine if you know what you're doing.
> 
> I'm not suggesting to arbitrarily set everything to 80Hz. I would suggest though that if ARC has automatically selected cutoffs for the mains at or below 80Hz and at or above 80Hz for the subwoofer, adjusting them all to 80Hz can be in most cases beneficial and at least non detrimental.
> 
> Cheers





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22342330
> 
> 
> " Paging Dr. MACCA .... paging Dr. MACCA. Please present your test level data stat !!! "
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Other than setting my subs to 'flat' I have found that ARC's solution is much better than setting everything to 80.

ARC does so much more-- compensating for weaknesses in all the different speakers by utilizing the strengths of other speakers-- that I think it is unwise to change the cutoff's. Period.


If you have big deficiencies in your graphs the first thing to do is us use the "quick measure" function in ARC to reposition your speakers.

If ARC sets cutoffs and cross-overs other than the old THX suggested 80 hz crossovers then it knows what it is doing.

My ears can attest to ARC's superiority over the old 80 hz crossover. Even before ARC I set my system's crossovers to 65 for fronts and 95 for subs by my ears, ignoring the recommended 80hz settings.

ARC now set's my fronts to 60hz and subs to 105/60. Guess I was on the right track.

All the additional voodoo that ARC does just makes it better.


Invest some time in positioning your speakers (again the QM function is most usefull) then TRUST ARC !!!


Just saying,


Tom


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22341713
> 
> 
> Is that when playing a 5.1 or a 7.1 HDMA program? If 5.1, with PLIIx? If 7.1, can you confirm with a test disc (AIX or Disney) and compare SPL with a meter, between PCM and bitstream?



7.1. I don't have those test discs.


----------



## a1usedcomp

Looking for some help , I have a Squeeze Box Duet hooked up to my D2 Aux/Coax I have not got around to running ARC but setup all my levels with a SPL meter , I also have Room EQ set to off . For some reason the music just sound awful .


I also have a MRX-500 setup the same way and it sounds decent


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22342343
> 
> 
> Peter ... have you verified these results with test data as you did in the past? If not, please kindly do so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



I Will dó that inn the first half off the week


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *a1usedcomp*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22342792
> 
> 
> Looking for some help , I have a Squeeze Box Duet hooked up to my D2 Aux/Coax I have not got around to running ARC but setup all my levels with a SPL meter , I also have Room EQ set to off . For some reason the music just sound awful .
> 
> I also have a MRX-500 setup the same way and it sounds decent



If you use analog in, use Analog DSP so ARC will be used. The same as with your MRX, use ARC. Why have an Anthem and not utilise ARC.

John


----------



## a1usedcomp

I have not got around to running ARC yet , is there any advantage analog / coax my Squeeze Box I always thought Coax was better .


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *a1usedcomp*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22343033
> 
> 
> I have not got around to running ARC yet , is there any advantage analog / coax my Squeeze Box I always thought Coax was better .



I have no idea why coax would be better than HDMI. Either way alone is not better than using ARC.

John


----------



## a1usedcomp

Coax vs Analog the Squeeze box don't have HDMI I will find the time to run the ARC Thanks


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22342714
> 
> 
> 7.1. I don't have those test discs.


What, you do not have Toy Story 3?


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22343524
> 
> 
> What, you do not have Toy Story 3?



Nope


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22342521
> 
> 
> Other than setting my subs to 'flat' I have found that ARC's solution is much better than setting everything to 80.
> 
> ARC does so much more-- compensating for weaknesses in all the different speakers by utilizing the strengths of other speakers-- that I think it is unwise to change the cutoff's. Period.
> 
> If you have big deficiencies in your graphs the first thing to do is us use the "quick measure" function in ARC to reposition your speakers.
> 
> If ARC sets cutoffs and cross-overs other than the old THX suggested 80 hz crossovers then it knows what it is doing.
> 
> My ears can attest to ARC's superiority over the old 80 hz crossover. Even before ARC I set my system's crossovers to 65 for fronts and 95 for subs by my ears, ignoring the recommended 80hz settings.
> 
> ARC now set's my fronts to 60hz and subs to 105/60. Guess I was on the right track.
> 
> All the additional voodoo that ARC does just makes it better.
> 
> Invest some time in positioning your speakers (again the QM function is most usefull) then TRUST ARC !!!
> 
> Just saying,
> 
> Tom


Not saying you can't get a good result with ARC's automated results. There's just a number of considerations why setting the lot to 80Hz can be constructive.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10

Got to test some more Blurays one being Real Steel 7.1 DTS-MA track and overall the volume is noticeably louder and I had to turn the volume down to -20 ( normal listening is -17,-18,). Watched Ironman 2 DTS-MA 5.1 and again overall volume was louder, so something must have changed with firmware 3.09. Don't get me wrong so far every movie I'm playing sounds the best I've heard it, but it could be due to this volume increase and tricking me into thinking its something else.


Nick or Macca can you please test and see what's actually happening. I don't want to cause any damage to my speakers with having the volume too high, as unlikely as that may be







.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *a1usedcomp*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22343033
> 
> 
> I have not got around to running ARC yet , is there any advantage analog / coax my Squeeze Box I always thought Coax was better .



In this case you are right. Use the coax and let the DAC in the Anthem do its thing. It's much better than the one in the Duet. Take the time and run ARC too and enable it for the Duet. My CD rips (FLAC & WAV) sound just as good through the Duet as putting the actual disk in my Oppo. Streaming services such as Rhapsody or MP3's are hit and miss as the Anthem will not cover up for bad encodes.


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22343749
> 
> 
> Got to test some more Blurays one being Real Steel 7.1 DTS-MA track and overall the volume is noticeably louder and I had to turn the volume down to -20 ( normal listening is -17,-18,). Watched Ironman 2 DTS-MA 5.1 and again overall volume was louder, so something must have changed with firmware 3.09. Don't get me wrong so far every movie I'm playing sounds the best I've heard it, but it could be due to this volume increase and tricking me into thinking its something else.
> 
> Nick or Macca can you please test and see what's actually happening. I don't want to cause any damage to my speakers with having the volume too high, as unlikely as that may be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



I've tested out Thor and Immortals and agree the volume is definitely louder than before. Tried Star Trek with Dolby True HD and the volume is lower, So I guess something has been done with DTS-MA. This is one of the reasons I've decided to retain the 5.1 analogue connectivity from my blu-ray player. If I use Bitstream there's going to be a large jump in volume when I switch from another source to blu-ray, unless I always remember to lower the volume first.


As I mentioned above I really do believe all sources sound better with the new firmware and I'm sure it's not due to just a volume difference. I don't know what Anthem have done but I'm glad they did it!


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22343749
> 
> 
> Got to test some more Blurays one being Real Steel 7.1 DTS-MA track and overall the volume is noticeably louder and I had to turn the volume down to -20 ( normal listening is -17,-18,). Watched Ironman 2 DTS-MA 5.1 and again overall volume was louder, so something must have changed with firmware 3.09. Don't get me wrong so far every movie I'm playing sounds the best I've heard it, but it could be due to this volume increase and tricking me into thinking its something else.
> 
> Nick or Macca can you please test and see what's actually happening. I don't want to cause any damage to my speakers with having the volume too high, as unlikely as that may be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Will do Simon, probably start getting into it tomorrow.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

gtx01,

If that's all you are worried about you can use the Temporary level adjustment buttons on the remote to set an attenuation around the board which will be applied when you play that type of Bitstream again. Those are remembered per type of audio and survive until you next reload settings.


Personally I find the variation in volume between movies -- i.e., in the track content as authored -- is a bigger factor. I find it hard to believe some folks who say they can set the volume knob once and then forget it.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22343814
> 
> 
> Personally I find the variation in volume between movies -- i.e., in the track content as authored -- is a bigger factor. I find it hard to believe some folks who say they can set the volume knob once and then forget it.
> 
> --Bob


That's the thing, everyone was bagging Dolby for their Dialog Normalization feature, so much so that it seems to have been dropped from the latest movie soundtracks. Yet the whole point of it was to enable people to "set the volume knob once and then forget it".


The irony of it all










Cheers


----------



## p.las

I have made som Quick test - using aix studios disc and and Thor . I also have checket armagedon that have a DTS HD MR 5.1 audio.


First aix dics:


DTS HD MR 7.1 bitstream vs LPCM. Bitstream are 3 dB louder than LPCM. This is the same result i Got last time i tested - but this time the All speakers had the same output , and no re-mapping to the fronts.


True hd is 3 dB under reference - but thas is becurse off no dial norm on the aix test dics.


So that means that the DTS HD MR 7.1 audio issue is solved. For some reason bitstream in DTS HD MR 5.1/7.1 is louder than LPCM . Other than anthem owners have also reportet that.


Last time that i tested thor , bitstream was 6 dB louder than LPCM . This time my readings was the same 6db difference . So i Can not confirm the result others have about this movie.


In armagedon ( DTS HD MR 5.1) there also was a difference inn levels , but only 3 dB - the same result as last time i tested.


Before installing this new software , i was using v2.10.


So bottumline - i Got the same result A's last time i tested (software v2.10)


The only difference is the DTS HD MR 5.1 ( low levels on the two fronts)that now is fixed, and the remapping to the front in DTS HD MR that also is fixed.


The higher volume in DTS HD MR 5.1/7.1 i Think most bee i DTS flag ore something . Becurse on captain America (DTS HD MR 7.1) , the levels are the same - bitstream vs LPCM


----------



## wingnut4772

No one else is finding their surround steering wonky in bitstream - post update- in DTS HD MA?


My firmware updated succsessfully according to the little message it gave me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22344582
> 
> 
> No one else is finding their surround steering wonky in bitstream - post update- in DTS HD MA?
> 
> 
> My firmware updated succsessfully according to the little message it gave me.



A suggestion: Re-Upload your existing ARC solution. No need to re-Measure. Just double click on the file with your ARC solution (which will open it up in the charts view) and click on the Upload button in the strip upper left.


Doing the firmware install requires a reset to Factory Defaults, which you then fix after the install by reloading Saved settings. But if you didn't have your latest ARC results saved in those settings then you didn't get the right stuff put back in. Re-Uploading your existing ARC solution is the simple fix. Then Save User and Installer Settings after that (and after any new ARC Uploads) to prevent a recurrence.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22344608
> 
> 
> A suggestion: Re-Upload your existing ARC solution. No need to re-Measure. Just double click on the file with your ARC solution (which will open it up in the charts view) and click on the Upload button in the strip upper left.
> 
> Doing the firmware install requires a reset to Factory Defaults, which you then fix after the install by reloading Saved settings. But if you didn't have your latest ARC results saved in those settings then you didn't get the right stuff put back in. Re-Uploading your existing ARC solution is the simple fix. Then Save User and Installer Settings after that (and after any new ARC Uploads) to prevent a recurrence.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. I did reload ARC.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Are you sure you used the right ARC results file?


Get the AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, or Disney's WOW, World of Wonder, Blu-ray, and you can check what's actually happening when you play a 7.1 DTS-HD MA Bitstream calibration track.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22344613
> 
> 
> ^ Are you sure you used the right ARC results file?
> 
> Get the AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray and you can check what's actually happening when you play a 7.1 DTS-HD MA Bitstream.
> 
> --Bob



Yes. But in the big picture, I actually ended up rerunning ARC after replacing a defective sub.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Also check what your player is producing when you have it decoding 7.1 DTS-HD MA to LPCM. For example, in many players if you have Secondary Audio Mixing enabled what you will ACTUALLY get is a decode of the lossy, 5.1 DTS compatibility track, even though the player SAYS it is playing the 7.1 DTS-HD MA.

--Bob


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22343814
> 
> 
> gtx01,
> 
> If that's all you are worried about you can use the Temporary level adjustment buttons on the remote to set an attenuation around the board which will be applied when you play that type of Bitstream again. Those are remembered per type of audio and survive until you next reload settings.
> 
> Personally I find the variation in volume between movies -- i.e., in the track content as authored -- is a bigger factor. I find it hard to believe some folks who say they can set the volume knob once and then forget it.
> 
> --Bob


I'm amazed at how big the difference is sometimes. I play some DTS MA titles from my HTPC at -14 dB, and they're LOUD. To get similar loudness with some old DVD DD material, I need to go all the way to 0 dB.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22344630
> 
> 
> Also check what your player is producing when you have it decoding 7.1 DTS-HD MA to LPCM. For example, in many players if you have Secondary Audio Mixing enabled what you will ACTUALLY get is a decode of the lossy, 5.1 DTS compatibility track, even though the player SAYS it is playing the 7.1 DTS-HD MA.
> 
> --Bob



Ok I will look. I have the OPPO 95.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22344798
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22344630
> 
> 
> Also check what your player is producing when you have it decoding 7.1 DTS-HD MA to LPCM. For example, in many players if you have Secondary Audio Mixing enabled what you will ACTUALLY get is a decode of the lossy, 5.1 DTS compatibility track, even though the player SAYS it is playing the 7.1 DTS-HD MA.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I will look. I have the OPPO 95.
Click to expand...

In that case it should be no problem presuming you are comparing HDMI output in both cases. If you are using Analog output in either case then there are other things to check.


NOTE: When using Bitstream output, you must set Secondary Audio OFF in the OPPO 95 to get the output you are trying to get.


Get either the AIX or Disney disc I mentioned and you can compare directly what happens with HDMI Bitstream and HDMI LPCM output of their test 7.1 DTS-HD MA track.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Harmony Saga Continues....*


If anybody here has managed to get Harmony Technical Support to implement 3-button Source selectors for the D2v in their Harmony remote THIS YEAR -- particularly if it has happened quite recently -- please PM me. I'm trying to find out how recently Harmony has been able to do this for D2v owners, since they seem to be struggling to do it for me this weekend.


The question is whether some recent software change on Harmony's side has broken this, or whether they are simply not looking in the right place in their archives to find out how they've done it for us in the recent past.


Another question: If anyone who already *HAS* got 3-button Source selectors working in their Harmony remote, *AND* has "updated" their remote recently (say within the past month) with some configuration change -- any change at all -- and still has the 3-button Source selectors working, please let me know as well. The question is whether Harmony has changed something in the loading software or the firmware in the remotes which has broken 3-button Source selectors that used to work.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22343784
> 
> 
> Will do Simon, probably start getting into it tomorrow.
> 
> Cheers



Awesome mate thanks. I just wanted to know as to whether I need to redo ARC due to this increase in volume. It's enough for me to be concerned as nothing else has changed other than installing 3.09. My normal practice after installing new firmware is redoing ARC (personal choice), but after my last Cal sounding so good i don't want to do it again.


Thanks again for going to the trouble and thanks to P.Las also for doing some testing.


----------



## Thxtheater

Two quick things:

I'm very, very happy with the way 3.09 is behaving with the surrounds. I'm sending bitstream from my Oppo BDP-83 via HDMI to my 50v (not yet 3D upgraded). I've tried Thor and Star Wars on BluRay and Incredibles. To me, (I was running 3.0 before) the way that everything has been tweaked with the DTS Master HD tracks is great. My surrounds are all in-ceiling and angled in-ceiling. They are direct firing. My surrounds are slightly behind primary listening position (about 110 degrees), but they are pointed directly at the primary listening position. My rears are also direct firing and pointed at the primary listening position)
I know that this is still a lingering bug, but the low-volume on startup bug is still present in 3.09. It happened to me again last night. Is there any hint at all as to what the root of this might be and why this is still a lingering issue?


So far, thumbs up. My only lingering bug on my 50v unit is the low volume on startup that requires a reboot (off and then on) of the system.


Theo


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22345396
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38190#post_22343784
> 
> 
> Will do Simon, probably start getting into it tomorrow.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome mate thanks. I just wanted to know as to whether I need to redo ARC due to this increase in volume. It's enough for me to be concerned as nothing else has changed other than installing 3.09. My normal practice after installing new firmware is redoing ARC (personal choice), but after my last Cal sounding so good i don't want to do it again.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for going to the trouble and thanks to P.Las also for doing some testing.
Click to expand...


There is no need to redo ARC.


What's happening here is no different than if you played a track with a slightly higher volume knob setting. Your ARC solution does not depend on content volume.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22345496
> 
> 
> There is no need to redo ARC.
> 
> What's happening here is no different than if you played a track with a slightly higher volume knob setting. Your ARC solution does not depend on content volume.
> 
> --Bob



Yep understood Bob. Thanks for the confirmation. As mentioned I am extremely happy with the way my system sounds now, and after watching Real Steel and Ironman 2 last night it was like listening to them for the first time. Incredible experience.


My mate who purchased 50v just took delivery of 2 SVS Ultra 13's and its totally blown away by his system now with 3.09. One thing he did mention and I also noticed this is, when you first start ARC and the test tone comes out of the first speaker you hear a very quick sound (squeel) and then it begins the test tone. This happens on each speaker and I personally have never had that happen until I installed 3.03. The strange thing is my mate ran ARC after connecting the new subs and that sound did come out but only for the front 3 speakers for the 1st position then it didn't happen. He decided to redo ARC again and it came out of the front left only for the 1st position only and for the rest of the calibration it didn't happen. Does anyone else get this quick squeel sound first then the test tone per speaker? When I did ARC after putting on 3.03 I got it and ARC set my surrounds to 115 where it has always set them to 95. Mind you I did move the surround right a foot closer to the room and angled it more in towards the main listening position as well as the left surround (rotated only not moved).


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22344850
> 
> *Harmony Saga Continues....*
> 
> If anybody here has managed to get Harmony Technical Support to implement 3-button Source selectors for the D2v in their Harmony remote THIS YEAR -- particularly if it has happened quite recently -- please PM me. I'm trying to find out how recently Harmony has been able to do this for D2v owners, since they seem to be struggling to do it for me this weekend.
> 
> The question is whether some recent software change on Harmony's side has broken this, or whether they are simply not looking in the right place in their archives to find out how they've done it for us in the recent past.
> 
> Another question: If anyone who already *HAS* got 3-button Source selectors working in their Harmony remote, *AND* has "updated" their remote recently (say within the past month) with some configuration change -- any change at all -- and still has the 3-button Source selectors working, please let me know as well. The question is whether Harmony has changed something in the loading software or the firmware in the remotes which has broken 3-button Source selectors that used to work.
> 
> --Bob



Can't really comment as to the Harmony One support issues for the 3-button source selection but I can say if you are unable to find a solution (why does harmony cripple their remotes with their crappy software?) I can suggest an Ir to RS232 device... I recently added a Lumagen XS to my D2 to assume video duties... I also use a Harmony One and was now confronted with the problem of no longer easily seeing the D2 OSD/status displays (the D2 is hooked up to the second HDMI output on the Lumagen while the first is connected to the projector)... So I added this:

http://www.industrologic.com/ir2prod.htm 


to my rack... works like a champ, relatively inexpensive and now I can program the One to do pretty much anything with the D2 via RS232 (like turn on/off room correction, specify modes, etc.) without needing to see the D2 OSD/display. The only limitations of the device to which I linked is that it requires a sony SIRCS control set (easily added to the Harmony... I used a sony tv device) and it has a limit of 127 ir to rs232 mappings.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22345689
> 
> 
> ...when you first start ARC and the test tone comes out of the first speaker you hear a very quick sound (squeel) and then it begins the test tone... Does anyone else get this quick squeel sound first then the test tone per speaker?



The system unmutes after the first sweep has begun so you're hearing only the last part of it - the upper frequencies. From the second sweep onward, it's the full 5-24k Hz sweep. This has always been happening though the length of the muting may vary with software. All ARC cares about in this regard is seeing enough consecutive sweeps that are the same as one another - the first one's being cut off makes no difference to results.


----------



## MACCA350

Ok, just finished the AIX level tests and as you can see a few things have changed.

Once again the tests were done with master volume at -10dB, ARC ON and levels were set to 75dBC(Slow) using the AIX 7.1 LPCM test tones.


Here's the new results under fw3.09
 


Here's the old results for comparison
 


As you can see almost everything seems to be good except an increase of +3dB across the board on 7.1 DTS-HDMA. I think we already accepted that that 5.1 DTS is a non issue as both the D2v and the OPPO agree on it's levels(though they both could be incorrect)


+3dB on PLIIx processing is fixed

-6dB on TrueHD rear channel in 6.1 mode is fixed

-3dB on Front L/R channels of 7.1 DTS-HDMA decoding is fixed as is the mixing of Surround L/R into the Front L/R channels

-2dB on LFE channel of 5.1 DTS decoding seems to be fixed in both the D2v and the OPPO.......I detected a slight drop but at most 0.5dB



Now for a strange one. The D2v's internal test tones seem to have the Rear L/R channels in a 7.1 setup down by -2dB. what this means is if you use it's internal test tones to calibrate, your rears will end up +2dB louder than the other channels.............either that or ALL of the AIX 7.1 test tones have the Rear L/R channel level tones +2dB too loud.

If I can be bothered I may run some other tests tones to decipher which is correct and how accurate ARC or the internal test tones are with regard to reference level.


All in all, well done to Anthem for sorting out most of the issues..........now if we can sort out that increase on HDMA tracks we'd be set










Edit: Forgot to mention, I ran all tests with the D2v in 6.1 and 5.1 mode also and they concurred with the 7.1 tests.........ie in 5.1 mode the rear channels were played through the surround speakers at the same levels as they were playing out of the rear speakers in 7.1


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10

Great work Macca and thanks for going to that trouble. So I wasn't imagining the increase in volume with 7.1 sources. Well just got back from JB-HI and now have The Avengers DTS-MA 7.1 so will play tonight and report back. Counting on this disc to be reference.


----------



## dmusoke

Great work Macca350! I know it took lots of effort and dedication on your part to collect this data in detail. Excellent work indeed and thanks from all of us at AVS







!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22345834
> 
> 
> The system unmutes after the first sweep has begun so you're hearing only the last part of it - the upper frequencies. From the second sweep onward, it's the full 5-24k Hz sweep. This has always been happening though the length of the muting may vary with software. All ARC cares about in this regard is seeing enough consecutive sweeps that are the same as one another - the first one's being cut off makes no difference to results.



Wow Nick, i wasn't aware the ARC starts its calibration tones at 5Hz and tops out at 24kHz! Are you also saying the ARC microphone is accurate down to 5Hz and if so within what spec would that be? In general, what is the frequency response and accuracy spec of the calibrated ARC microphone that would pass your QC criteria?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22345897
> 
> 
> Ok, just finished the AIX level tests and as you can see a few things have changed.
> 
> Once again the tests were done with master volume at -10dB, ARC ON and levels were set to 75dBC(Slow) using the AIX 7.1 LPCM test tones.
> 
> Here's the new results under fw3.09
> 
> 
> Here's the old results for comparison
> 
> 
> As you can see almost everything seems to be good except an increase of +3dB across the board on 7.1 DTS-HDMA. I think we already accepted that that 5.1 DTS is a non issue as both the D2v and the OPPO agree on it's levels(though they both could be incorrect)
> 
> +3dB on PLIIx processing is fixed
> 
> -6dB on TrueHD rear channel in 6.1 mode is fixed
> 
> -3dB on Front L/R channels of 7.1 DTS-HDMA decoding is fixed as is the mixing of Surround L/R into the Front L/R channels
> 
> -2dB on LFE channel of 5.1 DTS decoding seems to be fixed in both the D2v and the OPPO.......I detected a slight drop but at most 0.5dB
> 
> Now for a strange one. The D2v's internal test tones seem to have the Rear L/R channels in a 7.1 setup down by -2dB. what this means is if you use it's internal test tones to calibrate, your rears will end up +2dB louder than the other channels.............either that or ALL of the AIX 7.1 test tones have the Rear L/R channel level tones +2dB too loud.
> 
> If I can be bothered I may run some other tests tones to decipher which is correct and how accurate ARC or the internal test tones are with regard to reference level.
> 
> All in all, well done to Anthem for sorting out most of the issues..........now if we can sort out that increase on HDMA tracks we'd be set
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Forgot to mention, I ran all tests with the D2v in 6.1 and 5.1 mode also and they concurred with the 7.1 tests.........ie in 5.1 mode the rear channels were played through the surround speakers at the same levels as they were playing out of the rear speakers in 7.1
> 
> Cheers



what i dont understand is the rais of volume regards DTS HD MR 7.1 when playing AIX - but i have messured Thor as having the same 6db difference as the old software. i Will try to check captain America tonight - the old Software v2.10 dosent have any levels difference bitsream vs LPCM , on that movie. I will try to see how the new software handle it


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22346190
> 
> 
> what i dont understand is the rais of volume regards DTS HD MR 7.1 when playing AIX - but i have messured Thor as having the same 6db difference as the old software. i Will try to check captain America tonight - the old Software v2.10 dosent have any levels difference bitsream vs LPCM , on that movie. I will try to see how the new software handle it


It's possible there's a difference in the metadata that is affecting the way the D2v is treating different HDMA tracks.

I'll run some LEQ tests tomorrow on a few different HDMA tracks to shed some light on things.


Cheers


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22346221
> 
> 
> It's possible there's a difference in the metadata that is affecting the way the D2v is treating different HDMA tracks.
> 
> I'll run some LEQ tests tomorrow on a few different HDMA tracks to shed some light on things.
> 
> Cheers



i have in the past done some test on DT HD MR 7.1 audio - and the same 6db level differnce also was on Sincity , ice age 3 , i am not shure if Kick ass was one off them. And my findigs is that the 6db difference is the same on this new software


----------



## wingnut4772

I re uploaded the firmware and it seems that the bitstream issue I was having is corrected. I'll have to fiddle more later.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22231212
> 
> 
> You're right, it's usually only annoying - it didn't bother me that much until I started streaming music, and it also does it between tracks, I guess because there's no signal for a second.
> 
> If I switch from an active source to another active source, I also have the problem. Does that not happen on yours? How about simply moving between menus on a DVD or Blue-ray (where it also occurs for me)?
> 
> - Mark





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37650#post_22231421
> 
> 
> It doesn't happen when I switch from one active source to another, ie when cable TV is playing to Mac Mini playing. But it does if the source isn't active, or if I scroll up and down the inputs list.
> 
> I don't get it in-between tracks when streaming, but then again I have Gapless Playback on automatically in iTunes.



Just to follow-up: Anthem had me send the unit in, and they did a DSP board-level repair apparently. As painful as it was to go without the unit, I had it back about 3 weeks after I shipped it, and the problem is completely solved - so I am one happy customer!










Kudos to Anthem for the exemplary customer service.


- Mark


----------



## hoehne

Has anyone used CRM with the new firmware to upload a custom output for the D2V for a Pioneer Signature 141 with 1920 x 1080p [email protected] 48 Hz? I am curious what all the timing, blanking, start, sync, etc settings would be to successfully try this out. I know the 141 will accept 48 Hz as I did it with the old Live Video Setting Editor.


----------



## MACCA350

Here's some tests of a few DTS-HDMA 7.1 and DTS-HDMA 5.1 tracks
 


There doesn't seem to be any pattern, though it is a small sample size. All we can say for sure is that ALL DTS-HDMA 5/7.1 tracks are either 3dB or 6dB louder when bitstreamed to the D2v.


Notice on that 1min section of Terminator Salvation there seems to be a reduction of dynamics along with the increase in LEQ levels when bitstreamed.........I retested that section a number of times just to be sure the results were accurate and you'll note it shows up in both the center and left channel tests. I generally test dialog scenes and that scene was dialog mixed with effects. Im not sure if this is an odd ball or whether more testing of dynamic scenes is warranted to see if there is an actual reduction in dynamics when bitstreaming.


cheers


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22349500
> 
> 
> Here's some tests of a few DTS-HDMA 7.1 and DTS-HDMA 5.1 tracks
> 
> 
> There doesn't seem to be any pattern, though it is a small sample size. All we can say for sure is that ALL DTS-HDMA 5/7.1 tracks are either 3dB or 6dB louder when bitstreamed to the D2v.
> 
> Notice on that 1min section of Terminator Salvation there seems to be a reduction of dynamics along with the increase in LEQ levels when bitstreamed.........I retested that section a number of times just to be sure the results were accurate and you'll note it shows up in both the center and left channel tests. I generally test dialog scenes and that scene was dialog mixed with effects. Im not sure if this is an odd ball or whether more testing of dynamic scenes is warranted to see if there is an actual reduction in dynamics when bitstreaming.
> 
> cheers



that is also what i am comming up with. I will try to test captain america. This lack off dynamic looks odd


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Harmony Remote Saga -- RESOLVED!!*


Logitech Harmony Level 2 support finally rediscovered the recipe to make 3-button Input Selectors work for the Anthem Statement D2v device in my Harmony One remote configuration.


These are the set of input selectors defined in Appendix A of the D2v Manual. Things like getting to TV1 directly, without regard to what you last used as a "TV" input, and regardless of where you are coming from, which can be done by sending the 3-button sequence THX-8-9.


The TV1-4, DVD1-4, SAT1-2, FM1-3, and AM inputs are now all implemented as 3-button sequences in the D2v definition in my Harmony One configuration. The Input Selectors that only need a single button sent still send just the single button. So for example CD and VCR are implemented as single button selectors.


One complexity in getting these in is that the Harmony database entry for the D2v does not include the digits named as digits. I.e., there is no database code for "8". In fact all the digits are in the database entry for the D2v but they are specially coded to work differently if pressed and held. So for example the "7" button needs to bring up the Video Source Adjust Menu when pressed and held.


Well what they've got in the database entry is a code for "VideoProcessing" which is simply "7" with this special coding. So if you want the numeric buttons to work you need to assign the named entries to the right buttons. The Harmony database does not do this for you automatically as it has rules that the only thing it will AUTOMATICALLY assign to the "1" button, for example, is a code with the name "1" -- and they don't include the same command with different names in a database entry.


Anyway, the mapping is straightforward:


Buttons 1 - 6 are "Preset1" - "Preset6"

7 is VideoProcessing

8 is Display

9 is ToneBypass, and

0 is Dynamics


And it is these named entries that need to be combined with the "THX" command to make the correct sequence. If you just try to "learn" the digits you won't get the right result.


So in Appendix A it says that the command to get to TV1 directly is THX-8-9, and that gets entered by Harmony Level 2 support as THX-Display-ToneBypass.



With the scripts defined for these, all the Input Selectors WORK, but now you also have to do the typical Harmony stuff of adjusting "delays" for the devices. For example, to send an Input Selector while the D2v is powering up -- and also with the new bug introduced in the V3.09 firmware -- the 3-button sequence has to be sent VERY SOON after the Power ON is sent to the D2v. If you delay for a few seconds it won't work until the D2v is FULLY powered up, which takes about 11 seconds.


So you need to lower the "Power ON Delay" for the D2v device to a small number. I'm using 200ms.


But there are other things that happen as well before the remote sends the input selector to the D2v. It sends Power On to any other devices used in the Activity that need it. And that means their delays also get added in. But it is not the Power On Delay for another device (e.g., a Blu-ray player) that matters but rather it's "Inter-device Delay" which is how long the remote waits after sending commands to device "A" before it will send any command to any OTHER device, so that the other device has no problem seeing its command as new, and not simply an extension of what was just sent to "A".


So in addition to lowering the Power ON Delay for the D2v, you may also need to lower the Inter-device Delays for other devices. Typically these default to 1000ms (1 second). I've found 400 or 500 works.


But if you lower it TOO much then device "B" will get confused if sent a command too soon after one goes to device "A", so there's a bit of a compromise as to what works.



That's the power up side of things. The other side of the coin is switching activities while the D2v remains powered up. In that case the trick is to make sure the 3-button sequence (e.g., THX-8-9) gets sent without anything intervening. The problem is that the D2v will time out if the 8 and 9 don't arrive soon enough after the THX. So if the remote sends the THX, and then sends a command to another device, the inter-device delay for that other device kicks in before the 8 gets sent.


This can be fixed as well by judicious tweaking of the delays. If a small inter-device delay works (e.g., 400ms), then there may be no problem because EVEN IF that delay intervenes the whole of THX-8-9 may still get sent fast enough. And other tweaks can fix the order in which things get sent out in stubborn circumstances. All of this sort of tweaking can be done by you, the Harmony owner, in their standard configuration stuff, and if you've spent any time doing anything at all complicated with the Harmony setup, you've probably already done such stuff. Again, this is in the device definition for each device -- the item for "Adjust Delays". Changes made there automatically get applied to what happens when you enter and leave Activities.



The one case where this sort of stuff could not be fixed using the normal user-level adjustments was my PS3. The PS3 (as controlled by an IR2BT infrared to Bluetooth converter gadget) does not have a discrete Power OFF command. You need to maneuver it through its menus to get to a Power Off item and select that. The Harmony database definition for the IR2BT device has the sequence pre-defined so you just select its Power OFF command and the right magic gets sent to the PS3 -- a sequence of IR commands that go through the IR2BT. But that sequence takes time.


And the problem was that sequence kept getting in the way of the 3-button sequence (e.g., THX-8-9) that was trying to go to the D2v to select the correct input for the NEXT Activity when you LEFT the PS3 related activity.


Harmony Level 2 support had to fix that by building in a special delay in the Leave Activity portion of the Activity using the PS3. The delay they added allowed the remote to send the 3-button sequence to the D2v (to select the next desired input) BEFORE the power down sequence of commands started being sent to the IR2BT.



And with that last tweak it all works. At least so far as I've tested it to this point.


NOW, if YOU have a Harmony remote and would like to get to take advantage of this, the key item is the scripting that implements the 3-button Input Selector sequences for the D2v device definition in your configuration. These DO WORK -- as can be proven by using the "Help" button to resend them as needed. But you may then need to do delays tweaking as described above so that they work properly when powering up the D2v and also when switching between activities given the needs or your various devices. That sort of tweaking will be specific to your set of devices. For the most part, it will ALL be done by tweaking the "Adjust Delays" portion in each device's definition. It is unlikely you'll need to do anything fancier in the Activities themselves -- unless you, too, have something funky like the PS3.


So how do you get this stuff?


Harmony Support tells me is is UNLIKELY the 3-button scripting they've done for me will show up in their definition for the Anthem Statement D2v. Not now, and maybe not ever. Don't ask me why. They just said that's the reality.


BUT, if you point them to my configuration they CAN pull the script out of my configuration for the D2v and apply it to YOUR configuration for the D2v. Then, you'd need to do the timing tweaks to optimize how well it works.


To do that, you need to have the "user ID' for my Harmony account.


I'm not going to post that here because I'd rather Google didn't pick it up.


But if you want to do this, just send me a PM.


====================================================================


ETA: I don't currently have an Activity defined that uses DVD4 = THX-8-8, but I suspect if I did, that 3-button code might NOT work FOR POWER UP due to the OTHER piece of the V3.09 bug which is that evidently it will not buffer a repeated digit in IR input until it is fully powered up -- 11 seconds later. The code will work just fine AFTER the D2v is fully powered up, which means using the "Help" button after power up will work to get you to DVD4 if it didn't work during power up.


I've not actually tried DVD4 for power up with what Harmony has just done for my configuration (above). It is possible -- but not ALL that likely -- that the way they send THX-8-8 as an Input Selector would also work during power up.


DVD4 is the only Input Selector with a repeated digit, so it's the only one that might have this problem.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoehne*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22349267
> 
> 
> Has anyone used CRM with the new firmware to upload a custom output for the D2V for a Pioneer Signature 141 with 1920 x 1080p [email protected] 48 Hz? I am curious what all the timing, blanking, start, sync, etc settings would be to successfully try this out. I know the 141 will accept 48 Hz as I did it with the old Live Video Setting Editor.



I have done this for a CRT PJ but not Pioneer plasma so my timings won't be of any use to you. I will say that if your display can use it, it seems to work well. What you can do is run a utility like Powerstrip on your PC to get your display working at 1080p48 and then transcribe the numbers you arrive at from Powerstrip to CRM. This way you can fiddle with the PC and only have to upload to the Anthem once.


edit: If your TV can accept 24p you're better off letting it do the work and just use Anthem's stock 1080p24 video config. Straight frame repition should be child's play for the TV. *Anthem's VXP does not handle converting film-based 60i material to 24p (inverse telecine) if that's what you were hoping to gain.*


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22345404
> 
> 
> I know that this is still a lingering bug, but the low-volume on startup bug is still present in 3.09. It happened to me again last night. Is there any hint at all as to what the root of this might be and why this is still a lingering issue?
> 
> 
> So far, thumbs up. My only lingering bug on my 50v unit is the low volume on startup that requires a reboot (off and then on) of the system.
> 
> Theo



Sad to hear that one is still there. I was hoping that Anthem was tweaking the startup sequence in their code in an effort to fix this, when Bob reported the new bug related to source selection during power-up. If not I wonder why they touched the startup sequence.


----------



## dkojevnikov

Yes, low-level volume at startup is still present at my 50V with 3.09. Changing sources does not help. The only thing that helps is switching it off and on. Strange thing is that it never happens with my Rogers digital box (SA 8642HD) but happens in about 20% of cases with my NVidia-based HTPC.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22349500
> 
> 
> Here's some tests of a few DTS-HDMA 7.1 and DTS-HDMA 5.1 tracks
> 
> 
> There doesn't seem to be any pattern, though it is a small sample size. All we can say for sure is that ALL DTS-HDMA 5/7.1 tracks are either 3dB or 6dB louder when bitstreamed to the D2v.
> 
> Notice on that 1min section of Terminator Salvation there seems to be a reduction of dynamics along with the increase in LEQ levels when bitstreamed.........I retested that section a number of times just to be sure the results were accurate and you'll note it shows up in both the center and left channel tests. I generally test dialog scenes and that scene was dialog mixed with effects. Im not sure if this is an odd ball or whether more testing of dynamic scenes is warranted to see if there is an actual reduction in dynamics when bitstreaming.
> 
> cheers



I have now tested captain America - and on this film there is now a 3 dB difference bitstream vs lpcm . This wasent the case with the old software . On the v2.10 there wasent any difference in level. Cut it be a metadata or something like that?

. This is the same findings A's on the aix test disc. But Odd that the 6db difference on the Thor - Iceage - etc dosent have chance After the new software


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38250#post_22355767
> 
> 
> I have now tested captain America - and on this film there is now a 3 dB difference bitstream vs lpcm . This wasent the case with the old software . On the v2.10 there wasent any difference in level. Cut it be a metadata or something like that?
> 
> . This is the same findings A's on the aix test disc. But Odd that the 6db difference on the Thor - Iceage - etc dosent have chance After the new software


Yeah, that's what I'm thinking, there must be something in the metadata that the D2v is mistakenly using as a trigger for the different level increases. We know it's not the number of channels (ie 7.1 or 5.1) that's triggering 3dB or 6dB, so it's got to be something in the metadata that is consistent with each of the increases.


Cheers


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38250#post_22355804
> 
> 
> Yeah, that's what I'm thinking, there must be something in the metadata that the D2v is mistakenly using as a trigger for the different level increases. We know it's not the number of channels (ie 7.1 or 5.1) that's triggering 3dB or 6dB, so it's got to be something in the metadata that is consistent with each of the increases.
> 
> Cheers



a workaround if ones care for the levels, cut be to lower front - surround . sub - LFE on the direct bottums on the remote, when playing DTS HDMR . or what....?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Why complicate it? Lower the Main Volume if you feel the need.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350

Yeah, what Bob said, no need to complicate things...


I've emailed Anthem Tech my findings so hopefully they'll sort it out soon.


Cheers


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38250#post_22355905
> 
> 
> ^ Why complicate it? Lower the Main Volume if you feel the need.
> 
> --Bob



yes . i know. but i love these standards. when my master volume saids 0.0 db i know that i playing at reference level - stupid i know


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22355069
> 
> 
> Sad to hear that one is still there. I was hoping that Anthem was tweaking the startup sequence in their code in an effort to fix this, when Bob reported the new bug related to source selection during power-up. If not I wonder why they touched the startup sequence.



My 50v was sent back to Anthem and passed all specs and didn't require any servicing, so I'm not sure what the root cause of the audio suckout is; however, it's obviously an acknowledged problem.


Theo


----------



## AVfile

I think the low power-on volume bug has gotten worse. I just installed 3.09 and after playing one movie had the system unplugged for a few days. Upon restarting everything I was hit with the low volume bug. A power cycle did NOT fix it the first time, i.e. it happened twice in a row! Before that I was running 2.14d for a long time and it never happened once.


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38250#post_22356788
> 
> 
> I think the low power-on volume bug has gotten worse. I just installed 3.09 and after playing one movie had the system unplugged for a few days. Upon restarting everything I was hit with the low volume bug. A power cycle did NOT fix it the first time, i.e. it happened twice in a row! Before that I was running 2.14d for a long time and it never happened once.




You are not the only one seeing this. But I have gotten it to stop by going into the menu loading the Factory default and then hitting reload users settings. Once they were reloaded it stopped. We will see if that fix sticks. But good for two days now with multiple sources like Satellite TV, DVD region 1 & 2, and Blu Rays regions A&B.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I was about to suggest that some of this might be due to corrupted settings that the new firmware is more sensitive to than the old.


The problem is that settings issues like that might actually be Saved in the two memories. So reloading Saved settings might not fix it.


So the test would be to Reload Factory Defaults, and then MANUALLY re-enter just enough of your settings to check what happens over a series of power cycles. If the results look good then Manually re-enter the rest of your settings. I.e., don't trust what's in the Memories now. Save to the Memories AFTER Manually re-entering your settings. That's a pretty large amount of work just to check for a solution that has no guarantee. But if someone with the problem is willing to do it, we could get an indication of whether this is a good thing to try.


For example, the settings related to power on volume might be corrupted even though they display correctly when you look in the Setup menu.


However if just a Reset Factory and Load Saved User does the trick, then that's a lot simpler. It would be odd if that fixed it though, as you have to Reset Factory prior to the firmware install, and most folks will do a Load Saved User after the install to recover their normal settings.

--Bob


----------



## bohai

My new DV2 3D should arrive within the next hour(waiting on pins and needles). So therefore I have just started following these discussions. I hope you guys are talking about firmware upgrades causing problems and not new out of the box kit. Right?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Don't panic. Threads like this always tend to focus on problems, even if minor and even if rare.


Your new unit will likely come with firmware v3.09 pre-installed, which is the latest and greatest.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

My mind may be playing tricks on me but since I downloaded the new firmware and re-ran ARC, my D2 sounds even better with movies. More fluid. Did they do something to improve the soundstage?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38250#post_22358390
> 
> 
> My mind may be playing tricks on me but since I downloaded the new firmware and re-ran ARC, my D2 sounds even better with movies. More fluid. Did they do something to improve the soundstage?



Yep that's what I posted after installing 3.09, everything so far sounds better with a larger sound stage etc. I'm liking 3.09.


----------



## gerard1meehan

I also hear a difference in the soundstage with the new firmwear. More dynamic & much larger. I was watching the blue rays of the New Battlestar Galactica (huge Sifi geek) and the improvement was drastic. Now I watch these often and so sonic memory is very established with these.


Back to the low volume bug. The Fix I noted before did not hold. I was switching disks on my Oppo and when the next disk in the series loaded the volume was a whisper. This was not on power up but mid use. I went back in and did the load factory load user and it was back to normal. But obviously that is not a long term fix. Essentially the same as a reboot for those who do not want all of their amps and other devices powering on and off again


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38250#post_22359756
> 
> 
> I also hear a difference in the soundstage with the new firmwear. More dynamic & much larger. I was watching the blue rays of the New Battlestar Galactica (huge Sifi geek) and the improvement was drastic. Now I watch these often and so sonic memory is very established with these.
> 
> Back to the low volume bug. The Fix I noted before did not hold. I was switching disks on my Oppo and when the next disk in the series loaded the volume was a whisper. This was not on power up but mid use. I went back in and did the load factory load user and it was back to normal. But obviously that is not a long term fix. Essentially the same as a reboot for those who do not want all of their amps and other devices powering on and off again



Yes. More dynamic. This isn't in our heads? Lol


----------



## TJG55

Bob,

Right you are, again. Just received a new 50v and right there on the box....a sticker saying 3.09.

TJG


----------



## jayray

Very quiet here, must be 3.09 which is keeping everyone in their HTs listening to the improved sound. Will install it on mine tomorrow to see if it is the real deal

John


----------



## wingnut4772

Until I get confirmation Fromm Bob that my D2V sounds better with the new firmware, I refuse to believe it , lol.


----------



## Texas steve


Believe it!


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38250#post_22363589
> 
> 
> Very quiet here, must be 3.09 which is keeping everyone in their HTs listening to the improved sound. Will install it on mine tomorrow to see if it is the real deal
> 
> John



I'd rerun ARC too.


----------



## SimonNo10

I asked the question to Bob regarding re running ARC after a firmware install and he said


> Quote:
> There is no need to redo ARC.
> 
> 
> What's happening here is no different than if you played a track with a slightly higher volume knob setting. Your ARC solution does not depend on content volume.
> 
> --Bob



So no need to redo it.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38250#post_22363788
> 
> 
> I'd rerun ARC too.



No need to do that and in fact I don't load factory settings, or unplug my other HDMI sources before I do firmware updates and I've a lot so far and no problems yet. BTW, don't tell Bob.







You should follow whatever has worked for you.

John


----------



## wingnut4772

Ok but for some reason mine didn't sound right until I redid ARC. Probably user error.


----------



## Pete

Sorry if i missed it somewhere, but does anyone know if the A2 is built entirely in Canada, or is China now involved in the production process?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pete*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38250#post_22363913
> 
> 
> Sorry if i missed it somewhere, but does anyone know if the A2 is built entirely in Canada, or is China now involved in the production process?



A2 is built in Canada at the Anthem/Paradigm factory. The Statement line are all built there.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38250#post_22363905
> 
> 
> Ok but for some reason mine didn't sound right until I redid ARC. Probably user error.



That can happen quite easily if you futz with the Setup Menu settings ARC Uploads. Perhaps by accident. Or if you set "temporary" level adjustments with the remote and forget you've done so.


If the audio is not right then:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults

3) Load Saved User Settings


(This clears any mistaken "temporary" settings.)


4) Re-Upload your CURRENT ARC Solution. No need to re-Measure. This fixes any Setup changes you made by mistake.

5) Save User and Installer Settings to capture any such "corrections" the ARC re-Upload has made for changes you made by mistake.

6) Double-check that Room EQ is on for each Setup > Source Setup

7) When playing content, confirm you are getting the type of audio you are expecting as input and confirm that the Surround Sound Audio Mode you want is really in effect.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38250#post_22364142
> 
> 
> That can happen quite easily if you futz with the Setup Menu settings ARC Uploads. Perhaps by accident. Or if you set "temporary" level adjustments with the remote and forget you've done so.
> 
> If the audio is not right then:
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 
> 2) Reload Factory Defaults
> 
> 3) Load Saved User Settings
> 
> (This clears any mistaken "temporary" settings.)
> 
> 4) Re-Upload your CURRENT ARC Solution. No need to re-Measure. This fixes any Setup changes you made by mistake.
> 
> 5) Save User and Installer Settings to capture any such "corrections" the ARC re-Upload has made for changes you made by mistake.
> 
> 6) Double-check that Room EQ is on for each Setup > Source Setup
> 
> 7) When playing content, confirm you are getting the type of audio you are expecting as input and confirm that the Surround Sound Audio Mode you want is really in effect.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah. It was probably something in there I did or forgot. No matter. It sounds amazing now. I am still waiting for you to validate my belief that it sounds even better after the update.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38250#post_22364442
> 
> 
> Yeah. It was probably something in there I did or forgot. No matter. It sounds amazing now. I am still waiting for you to validate my belief that it sounds even better after the update.



Watched Hunger Games 7.1 DTS MA and it sounded fantastic, problem is it was the first time

I had watched it so not able to compare. At some point some familiar material will be used to compare.

John


----------



## LesPaul

I loaded 3.09 over the weekend and noticed a few things. First I rented Hunger Games from NetFix and did not have the DTS 7.1 content available on the disk. Are there different version of this disk? Also after upgrading to 3.09 from 2.11 I have noticed that I need to turn up the volume more to get to the same level as before my upgrade. Has anyone else noticed this? I did go through all the steps that Bob suggested and the update went flawless.


LesPaul


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22366995
> 
> 
> I loaded 3.09 over the weekend and noticed a few things. First I rented Hunger Games from NetFix and did not have the DTS 7.1 content available on the disk. Are there different version of this disk? Also after upgrading to 3.09 from 2.11 I have noticed that I need to turn up the volume more to get to the same level as before my upgrade. Has anyone else noticed this? I did go through all the steps that Bob suggested and the update went flawless.
> 
> LesPaul



You must have had the SD version not the Bluray.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LesPaul*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22366995
> 
> 
> I loaded 3.09 over the weekend and noticed a few things. First I rented Hunger Games from NetFix and did not have the DTS 7.1 content available on the disk. Are there different version of this disk? Also after upgrading to 3.09 from 2.11 I have noticed that I need to turn up the volume more to get to the same level as before my upgrade. Has anyone else noticed this? I did go through all the steps that Bob suggested and the update went flawless.
> 
> 
> LesPaul



The Blu-ray Netflix is renting of "The Hunger Games" is a "rental special" which differs from the normal retail version. For one thing it is lacking some Extras content.


But in particular, this rental special is crippled for audio, having only a lossy 5.1 track instead of the excellent, lossless 7.1 track found on the retail version.


Although Lions Gate deserves the major portion of the blame for cheating on their rental customers like this, I also blame Netflix for not pushing back and forcing the studio to do right by their customers. If you read the details in Netflix's write up for this title, they do describe the audio delivered on their rental version correctly. But still....

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22293515
> 
> *OK, things are moving on this DTS-HD MA 7.1 Bitstream decoding issue.*
> 
> The latest conjecture is: It is working correctly!
> 
> The D2v does a fancier form of DTS decoding which takes into account meta-data in the Bitstream for where the speakers were placed when the mix was created. This is an added complexity in the DTS data that most decoders simply ignore.



What do the MRX receivers do?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22367531
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37950#post_22293515
> 
> *OK, things are moving on this DTS-HD MA 7.1 Bitstream decoding issue.*
> 
> The latest conjecture is: It is working correctly!
> 
> The D2v does a fancier form of DTS decoding which takes into account meta-data in the Bitstream for where the speakers were placed when the mix was created. This is an added complexity in the DTS data that most decoders simply ignore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do the MRX receivers do?
Click to expand...


I don't have an MRX, but my understanding is that the MRX receivers handle DTS-HD MA Bitstreams the same way that V3.09 now does in the D2v and AVM 50v.

--Bob


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22367423
> 
> 
> The Blu-ray Netflix is renting of "The Hunger Games" is a "rental special" which differs from the normal retail version. For one thing it is lacking some Extras content.
> 
> But in particular, this rental special is crippled for audio, having only a lossy 5.1 track instead of the excellent, lossless 7.1 track found on the retail version.
> 
> Although Lions Gate deserves the major portion of the blame for cheating on their rental customers like this, I also blame Netflix for not pushing back and forcing the studio to do right by their customers. If you read the details in Netflix's write up for this title, they do describe the audio delivered on their rental version correctly. But still....
> 
> --Bob



What a rip off! I'm glad we've upgrade to handle these new codecs only to have the rug pulled out from under us

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22367558
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22367423
> 
> 
> The Blu-ray Netflix is renting of "The Hunger Games" is a "rental special" which differs from the normal retail version. For one thing it is lacking some Extras content.
> 
> But in particular, this rental special is crippled for audio, having only a lossy 5.1 track instead of the excellent, lossless 7.1 track found on the retail version.
> 
> Although Lions Gate deserves the major portion of the blame for cheating on their rental customers like this, I also blame Netflix for not pushing back and forcing the studio to do right by their customers. If you read the details in Netflix's write up for this title, they do describe the audio delivered on their rental version correctly. But still....
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a rip off! I'm glad we've upgrade to handle these new codecs only to have the rug pulled out from under us
> 
> John
Click to expand...


Yes, well since Lions Gate has made their business decision, MY business decision is that I'm boycotting any purchases of Lions Gate titles.










And I let Netflix know what I think of them as well.


I think of it as shoddy product. It's bad enough to strip Extras, or strip alternate language tracks. But screwing up the main title audio is no different than if they had screwed up the video by lowering the bit rate, or deleted scenes, or replaced the final Chapter with a title card reading, "If you want to see how the story turns out, go buy a real, retail copy!"


And yes, there are studios that have put out rental versions with crippled video, too. Some studios have no shame. If you can't put out a quality product, you shouldn't have it in rental in the first place.


Universal has been known to put out rental versions that even include the entire disc menu structure of the retail copy. But if you try to use one of the items listed in the menus a message pops up saying "Go buy a real copy, you cheapskate!" Or words to that effect.


You even have to be careful with varying retail versions. Some studios have been known to put out lesser quality product in Europe for example. Really, nothing is beyond them.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22367599
> 
> 
> Yes, well since Lions Gate has made their business decision, MY business decision is that I'm boycotting any purchases of Lions Gate titles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I let Netflix know what I think of them as well.
> 
> I think of it as shoddy product. It's bad enough to strip Extras, or strip alternate language tracks. But screwing up the main title audio is no different than if they had screwed up the video by lowering the bit rate, or deleted scenes, or replaced the final Chapter with a title card reading, "If you want to see how the story turns out, go buy a real, retail copy!"
> 
> And yes, there are studios that have put out rental versions with crippled video, too. Some studios have no shame. If you can't put out a quality product, you shouldn't have it in rental in the first place.
> 
> Universal has been known to put out rental versions that even include the entire disc menu structure of the retail copy. But if you try to use one of the items listed in the menus a message pops up saying "Go buy a real copy, you cheapskate!" Or words to that effect.
> 
> You even have to be careful with varying retail versions. Some studios have been known to put out lesser quality product in Europe for example. Really, nothing is beyond them.
> 
> --Bob




Bob,

You are exactly right. I have bought some used blurays from BlockBuster and when I tried to access some of the bonus material I got the error message-- I believe it was something more like 'This material is not available on this copy'--- but it might as well have been "go buy a real copy you cheapskate!!" If I remember correctly it was a Universal title, and I was trying to access the 'deleted scenes' listed on the menu.Deleted scenes and optional endings, etc. should be included on any copy of the disc, rental or not.

They are truly shameless.


If you don't care about any of the extras, then a used BB copy at $5 is fine. Otherwise wait for it to go onsale at Amazon or BestBuy. Thats what I do now.

Caveat emptor, as they say..


Tom


----------



## bohai

Zone 2 Hookup. I know that my HDMI in feeds will not work for zone 2/3 outs, but will a optical work for zone 2/3. ie an optical out from DVR and BD Player to optical 1 and optical 2 IN on the D2v 3D If not I assume standard analog audio cables from the devices to audio in on the D2v.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22367802
> 
> 
> Zone 2 Hookup. I know that my HDMI in feeds will not work for zone 2/3 outs, but will a optical work for zone 2/3. ie an optical out from DVR and BD Player to optical 1 and optical 2 IN on the D2v 3D If not I assume standard analog audio cables from the devices to audio in on the D2v.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Here it is in a nutshell: *Only the Main path knows how to convert digital audio to Analog.* Digital audio is what comes in on HDMI or Optical or Coax.


So to get audio to the stereo Analog outputs of Zone 2 (or Zone 3) you have TWO choices:


1) Use Analog audio input from your Source, e.g., a stereo RCA audio pair. Note that in Setup > Source Setup you can specify which stereo Analog input pair is used by that Source even if you have specified a digital audio input connection for its Main path audio. Be sure to check each Source, however, as some Source devices will mute their Analog outputs when HDMI output is in use. OR,


2) For Zone 2 only, set Zone 2 to "Copy" audio from Main. You'll need both Main and Zone 2 powered up, and you'll make your Source selection on the Main path. But set this way, the Main path will decode and convert to Analog (as a stereo down-mix) any digital audio input you wish, and that will go out on the Zone 2 stereo Analog outputs. I'm pretty sure this also works even for copy protected HDMI audio input.

--Bob


----------



## bohai

Thanks Bob, so with zone 2 set to copy htere is no need to even run analog cables from BD and DVR? Correct? But if I wanted to listen to something different on zone 2 than what is on Main, then I do need to connect the analogs? Just started my new install today.


----------



## LesPaul

I did call up Netflix and told them that I was disappointed and they stated that the audio was correctly posted on the disk rental sight. I suggest that to be fair and to put pressure on the studios they should also list the difference or exclusions of their rental disks compared to the purchased disk.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22367856
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, so with zone 2 set to copy htere is no need to even run analog cables from BD and DVR? Correct? But if I wanted to listen to something different on zone 2 than what is on Main, then I do need to connect the analogs? Just started my new install today.


Yes, but if you are still setting things up you might as well run them anyway so you have the flexibility later.


Also keep in mind that HDMI *VIDEO* can't be output on the Component video jacks for Zone 2. Copying won't help there as the problem is the lack of copy protection on the Component outputs. So you'll need to hook up Component video if you want video out on Zone 2.


Another way to keep all this in mind is that the Main path provides all the fancy conversion whereas Zone 2 and Zone 3 are simply unprocessed switchers of Analog sources -- with Zone 2 providing Analog video and audio and Zone 3 only providing Analog audio. For audio, Copying from Main is a way to get another type of Analog audio input -- i.e., the result of the down-mix conversion generated by Main.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Bob, I'm revisiting my setup now that the 3d upgrade is available. I've been using the 2 HDMI output scenario from my Oppo 95 up until this point, using 2 different inputs on my TV, one for the D2v's HDMI out, and one for a direct connection from the Oppo for viewing 3D blu-ray's. My question is this - is there an advantage to acquiring the new 3D card and going back to a more straightforward connection scenario? With everything in place today, it seems to work fine, but just weighing my options here. Your opinion is always appreciated!


Thanks,

-Brian


----------



## bohai

Audio Return CHannel for D2v 3D - Is it supported? My Panny has the capability to feed it back.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22370991
> 
> 
> Bob, I'm revisiting my setup now that the 3d upgrade is available. I've been using the 2 HDMI output scenario from my Oppo 95 up until this point, using 2 different inputs on my TV, one for the D2v's HDMI out, and one for a direct connection from the Oppo for viewing 3D blu-ray's. My question is this - is there an advantage to acquiring the new 3D card and going back to a more straightforward connection scenario? With everything in place today, it seems to work fine, but just weighing my options here. Your opinion is always appreciated!
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Brian



The main reason would be if you think you might want to add a 2nd, 3D-capable Source device. Or if you have any OTHER 2D Source you would like to run in "through" mode via the D2v.


Since 3D in the D2v 3D MUST be run in "through" mode, you don't get on-screen display of the D2v stuff, so looking to do that during 3D playback would NOT be a reason.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22371252
> 
> 
> Audio Return CHannel for D2v 3D - Is it supported? My Panny has the capability to feed it back.



Nope. Not even with the latest, 3D upgrade hardware.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite

Can anyone tell me if the DTS-HD Master Audio 5.1 glitch where the left and right fronts need to be set 3db higher than the center exists in firmware version 2.10 as I have to use this?


John


----------



## bohai

Bob, my new DV2 3D box states model 3.01. Is this the latest?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22371590
> 
> 
> Bob, my new DV2 3D box states model 3.01. Is this the latest?



3.09 is the latest and greatest, definitely upload that version.

John


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22371523
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me if the DTS-HD Master Audio 5.1 glitch where the left and right fronts need to be set 3db higher than the center exists in firmware version 2.10 as I have to use this?
> 
> John


Yes it does.


I believe the channel remapping 'glitch' exists in all official firmwares prior to 3.09


Cheers


----------



## dmusoke

I have my ARC setup as 5.1 for movies and 2.1 for music, all crossed at 60 Hz. I now want to try out a 2.0 Music setup. Do i have to re-do ARC or simply change some parametsr and re-upload?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22372096
> 
> 
> I have my ARC setup as 5.1 for movies and 2.1 for music, all crossed at 60 Hz. I now want to try out a 2.0 Music setup. Do i have to re-do ARC or simply change some parametsr and re-upload?



Go into the ARC Targets window. In the Music column replace the Subwoofer cutoff with "n" for No Speaker". Make sure that LF/RF are set to Full Range in the check box (this should happen automatically when you turn off the Subwoofer, but check it).


Accept those Targets changes, re-Calculate and re-Upload.


HOWEVER, it is a rare speaker -- even ones sold as "full range" -- that can handle the lowest bass frequencies at decent volume. If you have a decent subwoofer, a better approach would be to leave the Sub in the configuration but force a low "cutoff" for LF/RF -- say, 30 Hz. Thus any subsonic bass (below 30Hz) will still go to the Sub. Now most music won't go that low so you'll get your desired effect. But if you DO play something with, say 20Hz organ pedals in it, the Sub will carry that load.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22372179
> 
> 
> Go into the ARC Targets window. In the Music column replace the Subwoofer cutoff with "n" for No Speaker". Make sure that LF/RF are set to Full Range in the check box (this should happen automatically when you turn off the Subwoofer, but check it).
> 
> Accept those Targets changes, re-Calculate and re-Upload.
> 
> HOWEVER, it is a rare speaker -- even ones sold as "full range" -- that can handle the lowest bass frequencies at decent volume. If you have a decent subwoofer, a better approach would be to leave the Sub in the configuration but force a low "cutoff" for LF/RF -- say, 30 Hz. Thus any subsonic bass (below 30Hz) will still go to the Sub. Now most music won't go that low so you'll get your desired effect. But if you DO play something with, say 20Hz organ pedals in it, the Sub will carry that load.
> 
> --Bob



Cool! Thanks, i like the low xover option even better. This is simply a test i'm doing to see how low my speakers can go.


Now another thing i've observed. I presume the 75dB target reference level is for a volume setting of -10dB on the D2v. But at that level for movies, it seems too low for my hearing. I often have to bump up the volume from -7dB to 0dB to get a listenable experience. Am i getting deaf? Are movies supposed to be listened at 75dB in the home?


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22372385
> 
> 
> I presume the 75dB target reference level is for a volume setting of -10dB on the D2v. But at that level for movies, it seems too low for my hearing. I often have to bump up the volume from -7dB to 0dB to get a listenable experience.


No, 'reference level is for a volume setting of *0dB* on the D2v


Reference tones can be mastered at either -20dBFS to read 85dB(C, slow) using an SPL meter or -30dBFS to read 75dB(C, slow) using an SPL meter. Both will result in the same reference level, ie if you calibrate to 75dB using -30dBFS tones, -20dBFS tones will playback at 85dB at the same master volume.


The D2v's internal test tones under 'level calibration' are mastered at -30dBFS which means calibrating to 75dB(C, slow) will result in reference level at master volume 0dB


> Quote:
> Am i getting deaf?


Everyone's hearing degrades as we age, but your just assuming reference level is 10dB lower than it actually is.


> Quote:
> Are movies supposed to be listened at 75dB in the home?


No, they are mastered to be played back at reference level, otherwise whispers and other soft sounds get lost in the noisefloor and loud bangs, explosion, etc don't have the intended impact.


The 'recommendation' for movies to be played back at 10dB below reference for home theaters is simply because reference level is loud, it can be uncomfortable in rooms not properly acoustically treated and many home systems cannot reach reference level without distorting.


In the end, you've got the remote so it's up to you what volume you listen at.


Cheers


----------



## BuckeyeAmps

So.....I finally need to ask this question as I came across a killer deal on a Like New AVM50v.


My setup

- Anthem MRX700

- Paradigm Monitor 11's Series 7

- Paradigm Center 3 Series 7

- Paradigm Monitor 3 Surrounds

- Paradigm Sub 25

- Sony VPL-HW30ES projector

- 133" Da-Lite screen

- Dedicated home theater room (properly sound treated) for Blu-ray, DirecTV HD sports, and HD gaming



At this point there are only two things left I could do (on my budget) to improve upon my current sound experience

1) Upgrade to the Paradigm Studio line

2) Upgrade to an Anthem Pre/Pro setup



So my question is this: what improvement can I realistically expect by going from an MRX700 to an AVM50v + PVA 5 setup? Would this improvement be greater then going from the Paradigm Monitor line to the Studio line?

*Note: I do not use this setup/room for any music listening. At all.


I love my room right now. Love it. No complaints about sound. The only small complaint I have is that Anthems MRX line always seems to have a glitch or problem that needs fixed....and once firmware is released for that fix another one pops up. Nothing major though.



I appreciate any and all input.

Thanks!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22372538
> 
> 
> No, 'reference level is for a volume setting of *0dB* on the D2v
> 
> Reference tones can be mastered at either -20dBFS to read 85dB(C, slow) using an SPL meter or -30dBFS to read 75dB(C, slow) using an SPL meter. Both will result in the same reference level, ie if you calibrate to 75dB using -30dBFS tones, -20dBFS tones will playback at 85dB at the same master volume.
> 
> The D2v's internal test tones under 'level calibration' are mastered at -30dBFS which means calibrating to 75dB(C, slow) will result in reference level at master volume 0dB
> 
> Everyone's hearing degrades as we age, but your just assuming reference level is 10dB lower than it actually is.
> 
> No, they are mastered to be played back at reference level, otherwise whispers and other soft sounds get lost in the noisefloor and loud bangs, explosion, etc don't have the intended impact.
> 
> The 'recommendation' for movies to be played back at 10dB below reference for home theaters is simply because reference level is loud, it can be uncomfortable in rooms not properly acoustically treated and many home systems cannot reach reference level without distorting.
> 
> In the end, you've got the remote so it's up to you what volume you listen at.
> 
> Cheers



Macca ...you are the Bomb







! Thanks for the well written tutorial. Glad to know i'm not going deaf!


When i play a Pandora station via my Oppo 95, it is really loud (at my default -15dB volume level) that i often have to turn down the volume to -30dB on my D2v for comfort. Could it have been mastered at a higher level?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22372558
> 
> 
> So.....I finally need to ask this question as I came across a killer deal on a Like New AVM50v.
> 
> My setup
> 
> - Anthem MRX700
> 
> - Paradigm Monitor 11's Series 7
> 
> - Paradigm Center 3 Series 7
> 
> - Paradigm Monitor 3 Surrounds
> 
> - Paradigm Sub 25
> 
> - Sony VPL-HW30ES projector
> 
> - 133" Da-Lite screen
> 
> - Dedicated home theater room (properly sound treated) for Blu-ray, DirecTV HD sports, and HD gaming
> 
> At this point there are only two things left I could do (on my budget) to improve upon my current sound experience
> 
> 1) Upgrade to the Paradigm Studio line
> 
> 2) Upgrade to an Anthem Pre/Pro setup
> 
> So my question is this: what improvement can I realistically expect by going from an MRX700 to an AVM50v + PVA 5 setup? Would this improvement be greater then going from the Paradigm Monitor line to the Studio line?
> 
> *Note: I do not use this setup/room for any music listening. At all.
> 
> I love my room right now. Love it. No complaints about sound. The only small complaint I have is that Anthems MRX line always seems to have a glitch or problem that needs fixed....and once firmware is released for that fix another one pops up. Nothing major though.
> 
> I appreciate any and all input.
> 
> Thanks!



If you currently like the speakers that you have, then get the 50v + PVA 5 setup over the MRX700. You'll get much better and more powerful power definition for your speakers at all impedance levels down to 2 ohms without problems. ARC in the MRX700 is not as good as that in the 50v/D2v. I believe its stopped to 5KHz for the MRX and not as many filters whereas there are no such limitations in the 50v/D2v. but the differences might not be that audible in reality...


OTOH, the greatest change in your audio system will be the speakers and the 90W/Ch in all 5-channels from the MRX700 will not disappoint at all if the impedance levels are around 8 ohms.


If i had to choose, i would get the Paradigm speaker option as it would produce the greatest audio change in your system from what you have and ARC will correct for any room anomalies in your home theater.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22372538
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> The 'recommendation' for movies to be played back at 10dB below reference for home theaters is simply because reference level is loud, it can be uncomfortable in rooms not properly acoustically treated and many home systems cannot reach reference level without distorting.
> 
> 
> In the end, you've got the remote so it's up to you what volume you listen at.
> 
> 
> Cheers



There's also the issue of whether playing at 85dB will:


a) Do harm to your hearing -- folks with systems like this tend to watch MANY more movies at home than in commercial theaters. 85dB is LOUD even without worrying about whether your home system distorts at that volume. Hours of listening at 85dB can be a challenge. (Newbies: Also keep in mind that Reference Level does not mean PEAK Level. PEAK sounds in action movies can easily rise 15dB higher.)


b) Alarm the neighbors -- are any of them on heart medication?


c) Shift the foundation or damage your collection of delicate Ming vases


d) Wake the dead -- we are getting close to Halloween after all.


Personally, I don't enjoy listening to movies at home which are set to that level. The system can do it, but I don't run it that way.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22372591
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> When i play a Pandora station via my Oppo 95, it is really loud (at my default -15dB volume level) that i often have to turn down the volume to -30dB on my D2v for comfort. Could it have been mastered at a higher level?



Yes. A lot of commercial music at the quality level played on Pandora is boosted in volume (and then compressed to try to reduce clipping -- i.e., it all plays loud without much actual RANGE of dynamics). Some of the stuff on commercial radio stations is mangled beyond belief.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22371684
> 
> 
> Yes it does.
> 
> I believe the channel remapping 'glitch' exists in all official firmwares prior to 3.09
> 
> Cheers[/quote
> 
> 
> Thank you MACCA350, it's just the 5.1 not the 7.1 correct?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22372558
> 
> 
> So.....I finally need to ask this question as I came across a killer deal on a Like New AVM50v.
> 
> My setup
> 
> - Anthem MRX700
> 
> - Paradigm Monitor 11's Series 7
> 
> - Paradigm Center 3 Series 7
> 
> - Paradigm Monitor 3 Surrounds
> 
> - Paradigm Sub 25
> 
> - Sony VPL-HW30ES projector
> 
> - 133" Da-Lite screen
> 
> - Dedicated home theater room (properly sound treated) for Blu-ray, DirecTV HD sports, and HD gaming
> 
> At this point there are only two things left I could do (on my budget) to improve upon my current sound experience
> 
> 1) Upgrade to the Paradigm Studio line
> 
> 2) Upgrade to an Anthem Pre/Pro setup
> 
> So my question is this: what improvement can I realistically expect by going from an MRX700 to an AVM50v + PVA 5 setup? Would this improvement be greater then going from the Paradigm Monitor line to the Studio line?
> 
> *Note: I do not use this setup/room for any music listening. At all.
> 
> I love my room right now. Love it. No complaints about sound. The only small complaint I have is that Anthems MRX line always seems to have a glitch or problem that needs fixed....and once firmware is released for that fix another one pops up. Nothing major though.
> 
> I appreciate any and all input.
> 
> Thanks!



i have tested the MRX in my room. i have a AVM 50v to compare.


better ARC in AVM .....audible differnce - Not so harsch treble in avm - More detail in AVM - much more impack an texture in the bass in AVM - the sound from AVM is more open - and at the same time a more "warm" sound. When playing loud (- 5db) the AVM sounds more dynamick with a lower noiseflor. On the MRX i think that things at higher volume become more "stressfull". AVM just sound more naturel.


I will say that the difference is big. AVM 50 just is a very complete processor with no compromice.


At the same time i was having a Integra 80.2 - t think that MRX was better than the integra.


i was not using the amp in the MRX - i have active speakers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22373010
> 
> 
> Thank you MACCA350, it's just the 5.1 not the 7.1 correct?


No, it's both.......though I've only tested in DTS-HDMA 7.1 sources for this myself, I believe others found the same in DTS-HDMA 5.1 sources.


Cheers


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22371382
> 
> 
> The main reason would be if you think you might want to add a 2nd, 3D-capable Source device. Or if you have any OTHER 2D Source you would like to run in "through" mode via the D2v.
> 
> Since 3D in the D2v 3D MUST be run in "through" mode, you don't get on-screen display of the D2v stuff, so looking to do that during 3D playback would NOT be a reason.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I'm on the fence, because my Tivo THR-22 from DirecTV is "neutered" with no 3D capability (at least for now), so the Oppo95 is my only 3D source. This is a tough call. Will make my decision soon. Cheers!


----------



## BuckeyeAmps

Well the deal on the AVM50v fell through....someone beat me to the punch (it was 9/10 condition for $2600 on Audiogon). I guess this gives me a chance to save up money for a possible Christmas/2013 upgrade to my theater room.


Does anyone know if Anthem is planning a new Processor model release soon here? Possibly this weekend at CEDIA?


I know from direct word of mouth from our regions Paradigm rep that a new Studio line will be out by early 2013, so I am wondering if I should wait until that happens to re-evaluate my Studio line vs. Anthem pre/pro upgrade. Heck, maybe by then I can afford both. lol


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22373092
> 
> 
> No, it's both.......though I've only tested in DTS-HDMA 7.1 sources for this myself, I believe others found the same in DTS-HDMA 5.1 sources.
> 
> Cheers



Thanks again


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22373763
> 
> 
> Well the deal on the AVM50v fell through....someone beat me to the punch (it was 9/10 condition for $2600 on Audiogon). I guess this gives me a chance to save up money for a possible Christmas/2013 upgrade to my theater room.
> 
> Does anyone know if Anthem is planning a new Processor model release soon here? Possibly this weekend at CEDIA?
> 
> I know from direct word of mouth from our regions Paradigm rep that a new Studio line will be out by early 2013, so I am wondering if I should wait until that happens to re-evaluate my Studio line vs. Anthem pre/pro upgrade. Heck, maybe by then I can afford both. lol



The diff between versions of the Studio models is evolutionary not revolutionary so I don't think the new models will be that different. The Monitor 11s are excellent speakers so the avm 50 may be the biggest diff.

John


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22372179
> 
> 
> Go into the ARC Targets window. In the Music column replace the Subwoofer cutoff with "n" for No Speaker". Make sure that LF/RF are set to Full Range in the check box (this should happen automatically when you turn off the Subwoofer, but check it).
> 
> Accept those Targets changes, re-Calculate and re-Upload.
> 
> HOWEVER, it is a rare speaker -- even ones sold as "full range" -- that can handle the lowest bass frequencies at decent volume. If you have a decent subwoofer, a better approach would be to leave the Sub in the configuration but force a low "cutoff" for LF/RF -- say, 30 Hz. Thus any subsonic bass (below 30Hz) will still go to the Sub. Now most music won't go that low so you'll get your desired effect. But if you DO play something with, say 20Hz organ pedals in it, the Sub will carry that load.
> 
> --Bob



Bob and All,


Now you piqued my curiosity and question: I do, indeed have true full-range speakers that go -3dB at 23Hz and -6dB at 20Hz and -10dB at 17Hz. They go up to 45kHz. I also have a sub that goes to 18Hz at -3db.


Movies are fine and optimized. No complaints with movies.


However, *for music only*, I want to get the optimal configuration with my full range speakers. Right now, I'm indeed cutting off at 30Hz. However I'd like to test and try overlap of both the sub and my full-range speakers between 30Hz and below. The reason for this is that the room is very, very large (that's why I have full range speakers and a 15" sub). I feel as though I need just a bit more weight at the bottom end---not for explosions, etc, but for appropriate weight and impact of instruments at lower frequencies.


So, if I want to test an overlap both the sub and the full-range speakers at the lowest frequencies:

What is the best way/practice to overlap full range and a sub? I recall seeing it once in the manual and can't find it again. I don't know if this was with my 20v or with my 50v.
Does Anthem recommend this approach in my specific situation (I recall that they don't recommend overlap)
Are there other configuration options/suggestions? There's no specific LFE channel in music, so it's not like I can just turn up the DB in the speaker config.


Am I just barking up the wrong tree? Any thoughts are much appreciated.


Theo


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22373830
> 
> 
> Bob and All,
> 
> Now you piqued my curiosity and question: I do, indeed have true full-range speakers that go -3dB at 23Hz and -6dB at 20Hz and -10dB at 17Hz. They go up to 45kHz. I also have a sub that goes to 18Hz at -3db.
> 
> Movies are fine and optimized. No complaints with movies.
> 
> However, *for music only*, I want to get the optimal configuration with my full range speakers. Right now, I'm indeed cutting off at 30Hz. However I'd like to test and try overlap of both the sub and my full-range speakers between 30Hz and below. The reason for this is that the room is very, very large (that's why I have full range speakers and a 15" sub). I feel as though I need just a bit more weight at the bottom end---not for explosions, etc, but for appropriate weight and impact of instruments at lower frequencies.
> 
> So, if I want to test an overlap both the sub and the full-range speakers at the lowest frequencies:
> 
> What is the best way/practice to overlap full range and a sub? I recall seeing it once in the manual and can't find it again. I don't know if this was with my 20v or with my 50v.
> Does Anthem recommend this approach in my specific situation (I recall that they don't recommend overlap)
> Are there other configuration options/suggestions? There's no specific LFE channel in music, so it's not like I can just turn up the DB in the speaker config.
> 
> Am I just barking up the wrong tree? Any thoughts are much appreciated.
> 
> Theo



I don't have content that goes down that low so I don't use my sub. I do set my Studio 100s to full range and set to 25Hz and it sounds fantastic.

John


----------



## BuckeyeAmps




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22373821
> 
> 
> The diff between versions of the Studio models is evolutionary not revolutionary so I don't think the new models will be that different. The Monitor 11s are excellent speakers so the avm 50 may be the biggest diff.
> 
> John



Since I didn't capitalize on the AVM50v on-time I have even begun to look at severely discounted D2v's (around $5000). Is there a sound quality difference between the AVM50v and the D2v for strictly 5.1 surround sound listening? Or is the difference between the two more inputs/outputs and more technical specs geared at music reproduction/listening?


Thanks!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22374492
> 
> 
> Since I didn't capitalize on the AVM50v on-time I have even begun to look at severely discounted D2v's (around $5000). Is there a sound quality difference between the AVM50v and the D2v for strictly 5.1 surround sound listening? Or is the difference between the two more inputs/outputs and more technical specs geared at music reproduction/listening?
> 
> Thanks!



I went from an AVM50 to a D2v and there was an appreciable difference. However I don't know if that's the case from an AVM50v.

John


----------



## ejn1

Hi All,


I have a AVM50 and was wondering if I could run a compononent output to my main display and use HDMI inputs? Will the AVM50 transcode the video from HDMI to Component out? Also, assume I could still use the HDMI audio stream?


Thanks in advance,

ejn1


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22374492
> 
> 
> Since I didn't capitalize on the AVM50v on-time I have even begun to look at severely discounted D2v's (around $5000). Is there a sound quality difference between the AVM50v and the D2v for strictly 5.1 surround sound listening? Or is the difference between the two more inputs/outputs and more technical specs geared at music reproduction/listening?
> 
> Thanks!



I would say the Statement D2v is more for audiophiles. If you already have an audiophile stereo preamp and will only use the pre/pro for movies I would go with the AVM-50v. The only differences are:

- upsampling DACs (there are different opinions on the merits of this)

- tighter tolerance on some discrete components

- Statement faceplate


In the old AVM-50 days the Statement line had more processing power but now the 50v is on par. The video processor and input/outputs are the same.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22372765
> 
> 
> There's also the issue of whether playing at 85dB will:
> 
> 
> a) Do harm to your hearing -- folks with systems like this tend to watch MANY more movies at home than in commercial theaters. 85dB is LOUD even without worrying about whether your home system distorts at that volume. Hours of listening at 85dB can be a challenge. (Newbies: Also keep in mind that Reference Level does not mean PEAK Level. PEAK sounds in action movies can easily rise 15dB higher.)
> 
> 
> Personally, I don't enjoy listening to movies at home which are set to that level. The system can do it, but I don't run it that way.
> 
> --Bob



Does this take into account the gain of the amps and sensitivity of the speakers? For example running balanced connections nets you another 6dB.

I run balanced to Statement amps (29 dB gain) with average sensitivity speakers (Energy Veritas) and find it plenty LOUD at -20 dB on the dial for DTS movies. With Dolby a little higher, say -15 dB.


I did some measurements once playing loud DVD-Audio 5.1 concert at 100 dB peaks and the volume still wasn't near 0.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22373821
> 
> 
> The diff between versions of the Studio models is evolutionary not revolutionary so I don't think the new models will be that different. The Monitor 11s are excellent speakers so the avm 50 may be the biggest diff.
> 
> John



Agreed, plus with the more powerful ARC you can afford your speakers more correction.


I would also be skeptical of "new" speaker models. These days it more often means a switch in manufacturing or outsourcing components / cabinets (i.e. from Canada to China) than an actual improvement in quality. Stick with what you know works.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22374824
> 
> 
> Does this take into account the gain of the amps and sensitivity of the speakers? For example running balanced connections nets you another 6dB.
> 
> I run balanced to Statement amps (29 dB gain) with average sensitivity speakers (Energy Veritas) and find it plenty LOUD at -20 dB on the dial for DTS movies. With Dolby a little higher, say -15 dB.
> 
> I did some measurements once playing loud DVD-Audio 5.1 concert at 100 dB peaks and the volume still wasn't near 0.


Such things are irrelevant when a system is properly calibrated.


In a calibrated system at reference level SPL's can reach 105dB from each speaker and 115dB from the LFE, due to the combined output in full swing levels can exceed 120dB. That's assuming the system has the dynamic range capability.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejn1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22374769
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I have a AVM50 and was wondering if I could run a compononent output to my main display and use HDMI inputs? Will the AVM50 transcode the video from HDMI to Component out? Also, assume I could still use the HDMI audio stream?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> ejn1



You can not convert HDMI video input to Component video output due to the lack of copy protection on Component video.


For Component output you will need to use either Component or S-video input.


HOWEVER, there's another solution people have been using -- a gizmo sold under the name HDFury. This is a gizmo that affixes to your TV. It takes HDMI input (complete with copy protection) and converts that to feed the Component input jacks on the TV. Their legal theory -- so far they've not been challenged on this -- is that once you affix the device to the TV it is now PART of the TV and thus no different than if you had opened up the TV and added HDMI input hardware as a TV upgrade. Using one of these you can then use HDMI in and out on the AVM 50 to drive your HDFury/TV combo.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22373830
> 
> 
> Bob and All,
> 
> 
> Now you piqued my curiosity and question: I do, indeed have true full-range speakers that go -3dB at 23Hz and -6dB at 20Hz and -10dB at 17Hz. They go up to 45kHz. I also have a sub that goes to 18Hz at -3db.
> 
> 
> Movies are fine and optimized. No complaints with movies.
> 
> 
> However, *for music only*, I want to get the optimal configuration with my full range speakers. Right now, I'm indeed cutting off at 30Hz. However I'd like to test and try overlap of both the sub and my full-range speakers between 30Hz and below. The reason for this is that the room is very, very large (that's why I have full range speakers and a 15" sub). I feel as though I need just a bit more weight at the bottom end---not for explosions, etc, but for appropriate weight and impact of instruments at lower frequencies.
> 
> 
> So, if I want to test an overlap both the sub and the full-range speakers at the lowest frequencies:
> 
> What is the best way/practice to overlap full range and a sub? I recall seeing it once in the manual and can't find it again. I don't know if this was with my 20v or with my 50v.
> Does Anthem recommend this approach in my specific situation (I recall that they don't recommend overlap)
> Are there other configuration options/suggestions? There's no specific LFE channel in music, so it's not like I can just turn up the DB in the speaker config.
> 
> 
> Am I just barking up the wrong tree? Any thoughts are much appreciated.
> 
> 
> Theo



Attempting to circumvent ARC and force overlap is a bad idea. The concept (known as SuperSub in the Setup menu) is a hack that predates ARC which was evidently put in for marketing reasons to compete against other systems that were touting the extra boomy bass you could use to rock your neighborhood if you didn't care a damn about actual calibrated audio.


It is a GOOD idea to allow ARC to use BOTH the Sub and Mains when setting up your Music solution -- presuming you have a decent Sub in the first place -- as that gives ARC more degrees of freedom to construct a well calibrated solution. But let ARC do its thing. Always set "1 Sub" in Setup when using ARC (even if you have more than 1 Sub). Never use SuperSub.



In general, there is a tradeoff in Sub design between how much volume they can produce and how accurate they are. My Velodyne DD series Sub even has a "servo" adjustment setting where one end provides maximum output and the other end (which I use) provides maximum accuracy.


My recommendation is that you buy a Sub which tests as being highly accurate, as well as being able to go quite deep into low frequencies, and then use that to support the low end of your speakers EVEN IF those speakers are sold as "full range". If such a Sub doesn't produce enough volume, buy two.


You must understand that there's quite a lot of guff out there in bass specs for main speakers. Even well engineered full range speakers may only be able to meet their low frequency specs when played at lower volumes. If your speaker does not have powered woofers, odds are a separate sub (of decent design) will do a better job despite the specs for the speaker.


This is why I recommend pairing even "full range" speakers with a decent Sub setup -- albeit perhaps at a low crossover like 30Hz so that the Sub is only handling the lowest portion of steered bass. The sub will ALSO be handling the ENTIRETY of LFE channel content, so it needs to be a good quality -- full bass range sub -- not just a thumper suitable only for those lowest of the low frequencies. LFE content is, by design, where LOUD bass resides. And so it makes sense to have the Sub handle that as the bass capacity of full range speakers will be weakest when asked to reproduce LOUD bass.

--Bob


----------



## BuckeyeAmps




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22374792
> 
> 
> I would say the Statement D2v is more for audiophiles. If you already have an audiophile stereo preamp and will only use the pre/pro for movies I would go with the AVM-50v. The only differences are:
> 
> - upsampling DACs (there are different opinions on the merits of this)
> 
> - tighter tolerance on some discrete components
> 
> - Statement faceplate
> 
> In the old AVM-50 days the Statement line had more processing power but now the 50v is on par. The video processor and input/outputs are the same.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22374834
> 
> 
> Agreed, plus with the more powerful ARC you can afford your speakers more correction.
> 
> I would also be skeptical of "new" speaker models. These days it more often means a switch in manufacturing or outsourcing components / cabinets (i.e. from Canada to China) than an actual improvement in quality. Stick with what you know works.



Awesome! Thanks for the replies.


I love the sound of my Series 7 Monitor speakers and have no gripes with them: their styling fits my theater room, they haven't let me down during any movie so far, and they were perfect on my wallet. Plus, having that Sub 25 keeps me grinning even to this day when watching movies.

Sounds like my mind is made-up: I will save up for a new AVM50v unless I find a used one by the time I have the funds (late November or December).


Anyone heard any rumors of a new Anthem processor coming out soon?


----------



## BuckeyeAmps

jayray,


I know your very active in the MRX thread and always aware of any new problems that pop up with firmware updates, etc.


In your opinion, do the AVM50v/D2v suffer as numerous problems, big or small, as the MRX's?


Thanks!


----------



## bohai

OK, setting up my D2v. I have noticed that when playing something with a ticker tape, sports scores, stock prices etc, that it is not smooth but rather jerky. I am playing back recordings of Boss. There are scenes that are smooth, and then scenes that are jerky.


And I would think my Direct TV source is 1080P, however Anthem is displaying 1080i. Is there a problem?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22375652
> 
> 
> jayray,
> 
> I know your very active in the MRX thread and always aware of any new problems that pop up with firmware updates, etc.
> 
> In your opinion, do the AVM50v/D2v suffer as numerous problems, big or small, as the MRX's?
> 
> Thanks!



These models have been around longer and are built in Canada which means Anthem can solve problems faster because the engineers don't have to wait for sourced out component companies to fix their product. The engineers solve problems quickly in general, and for the MRXs, the latest firmware is pretty stable.

John


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22374492
> 
> 
> Since I didn't capitalize on the AVM50v on-time I have even begun to look at severely discounted D2v's (around $5000). Is there a sound quality difference between the AVM50v and the D2v for strictly 5.1 surround sound listening? Or is the difference between the two more inputs/outputs and more technical specs geared at music reproduction/listening?
> 
> Thanks!


 D2v_50v Comp Chart.pdf 37k .pdf file


See attachment...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38280#post_22372767
> 
> 
> Yes. A lot of commercial music at the quality level played on Pandora is boosted in volume (and then compressed to try to reduce clipping -- i.e., it all plays loud without much actual RANGE of dynamics). Some of the stuff on commercial radio stations is mangled beyond belief.
> 
> --Bob


Sheesh .... and i thought it was lossless!


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22375748
> 
> 
> OK, setting up my D2v. I have noticed that when playing something with a ticker tape, sports scores, stock prices etc, that it is not smooth but rather jerky. I am playing back recordings of Boss. There are scenes that are smooth, and then scenes that are jerky.
> 
> And I would think my Direct TV source is 1080P, however Anthem is displaying 1080i. Is there a problem?



Standard HD channels on DirecTV are 1080i or 720p. Pay-Per-View movies can go to 1080p. I haven't noticed any jerkiness in the bottom crawls, but I don't really look at them for more than a second or two. I'd make sure you have your video out set for 60hz.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22374976
> 
> 
> Awesome! Thanks for the replies.
> 
> I love the sound of my Series 7 Monitor speakers and have no gripes with them: their styling fits my theater room, they haven't let me down during any movie so far, and they were perfect on my wallet. Plus, having that Sub 25 keeps me grinning even to this day when watching movies.
> 
> Sounds like my mind is made-up: I will save up for a new AVM50v unless I find a used one by the time I have the funds (late November or December).



Good decision. Not to confuse matters but what would a used D2 w/ARC go for (not the D2v)? I still think it is a good option if you don't have a 7.1 speaker setup, i.e. you can live with 5.1 LPCM (HDMI 1.1 limitation).


> Quote:
> Anyone heard any rumors of a new Anthem processor coming out soon?



No, they only just released the 3D upgrade kit for the 50v & D2v.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22376138
> 
> 
> Standard HD channels on DirecTV are 1080i or 720p. Pay-Per-View movies can go to 1080p. I haven't noticed any jerkiness in the bottom crawls, but I don't really look at them for more than a second or two. I'd make sure you have your video out set for 60hz.



Right. Since there are a few new users here it's worth repeating that you need to setup more than one video output configuration in the Anthem if you want to take advantage of 24Hz films because the video processor does not perform inverse telecine (converting 60Hz film-based material to 24p) plus there is always 60Hz video-based material on TV, concert videos, amateur movies, etc.


So if you have a true 24p source (Blu-ray or HD-DVD) use the 1080p24 output configuration if your TV supports that. For other sources choose from the other output configurations (1080i60, 1080p60, 720p60) whichever works best for your TV. If the source is capable of producing multiple formats (i.e. channel surfing with tuner set to bypass mode) the video processor can nicely handle upconversion of everything to 1080p60 if your TV supports that and assuming it is a fixed pixel display, not a CRT.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22375922
> 
> D2v_50v Comp Chart.pdf 37k .pdf file
> 
> See attachment...



Ah, my favorite chart, thanks for digging it up










Interesting:

*Inverse Telecine = future software*


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22374925
> 
> 
> Attempting to circumvent ARC and force overlap is a bad idea. The concept (known as SuperSub in the Setup menu) is a hack that predates ARC which was evidently put in for marketing reasons to compete against other systems that were touting the extra boomy bass you could use to rock your neighborhood if you didn't care a damn about actual calibrated audio.
> 
> It is a GOOD idea to allow ARC to use BOTH the Sub and Mains when setting up your Music solution -- presuming you have a decent Sub in the first place -- as that gives ARC more degrees of freedom to construct a well calibrated solution. But let ARC do its thing. Always set "1 Sub" in Setup when using ARC (even if you have more than 1 Sub). Never use SuperSub.
> 
> 
> 
> In general, there is a tradeoff in Sub design between how much volume they can produce and how accurate they are. My Velodyne DD series Sub even has a "servo" adjustment setting where one end provides maximum output and the other end (which I use) provides maximum accuracy.
> 
> My recommendation is that you buy a Sub which tests as being highly accurate, as well as being able to go quite deep into low frequencies, and then use that to support the low end of your speakers EVEN IF those speakers are sold as "full range". If such a Sub doesn't produce enough volume, buy two.
> 
> You must understand that there's quite a lot of guff out there in bass specs for main speakers. Even well engineered full range speakers may only be able to meet their low frequency specs when played at lower volumes. If your speaker does not have powered woofers, odds are a separate sub (of decent design) will do a better job despite the specs for the speaker.
> 
> This is why I recommend pairing even "full range" speakers with a decent Sub setup -- albeit perhaps at a low crossover like 30Hz so that the Sub is only handling the lowest portion of steered bass. The sub will ALSO be handling the ENTIRETY of LFE channel content, so it needs to be a good quality -- full bass range sub -- not just a thumper suitable only for those lowest of the low frequencies. LFE content is, by design, where LOUD bass resides. And so it makes sense to have the Sub handle that as the bass capacity of full range speakers will be weakest when asked to reproduce LOUD bass.
> 
> --Bob



That's great Bob. Thanks. So I'm indeed remembering that from my AVM/20 days.


I'm not worried about the quality of either as I'm using Revel Ultima2's along with a Revel B15 sub. So I've got checks next to great speakers and sub. Playing music in full range is utterly spectacular in full range mode; however, given the size of my room and seating distance, there is indeed "room" for more punch--at low to moderate volumes. At moderate to louder volumes everything is spectacularly amazing without a sub. I don't miss a sub there one bit.


I know that I could use Dolby Volume, but I prefer not to use Dolby Volume in a 2-channel listening setup. There's certainly a difference; and in my setup with 2-channel critical listening, Dolby Volume isn't complementary.


Thanks,

Theo


----------



## ejn1

Many thanks Bob for the quick response.


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22377158
> 
> 
> Ah, my favorite chart, thanks for digging it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting:
> *Inverse Telecine = future software*



LOL I haven't seen that chart in quite some time and that had me







too.


----------



## paradigm25

Bob: I have tried all that, and it still mute’s mid-play on CD’s. I even tried to make one of the unused HDMI input on the TV active and switch the TV to that input while playing the CD’s and it did not change anything. I also went into TV setup and turned off all HDMI control within the TV, still nothing. I talked to Anthem support, but they could not help as well, so I am out of ideas at this point. Please let me know if you or anyone has any other ideas. It is very frustrating. It happens with my Oppo 95 and Sony ES 5400 as well. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Ask in the owner's thread for your TV to see is anyone has gotten what you are trying to do to work with any other HDMI Player/AVR combo? If so, compare settings in the TV.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25

Bob: I have discussed this before with you on this forum, and I have something very different to report, and I think you can help explain it to me, because there definitely seems to be some issue with my D2v itself, or my mic, or files which came with the unit, because I just cannot understand.

If you look at my old post, you will see that I was trying to setup my system and the overall sound from my system was less than mediocre, and you suggested many things, and we went back and forth with lot of things but nothing really made any appreciable improvement.

I was basically using the setup method right out of the book, and some things you had suggested in the beginning of this thread. Do the speaker distance,…… set the test tone level,……set the sub level with the volume knob on the sub itself etc. etc., except that I was really not able to tell the difference in sound when I turned the phase knob on my Paradigm Sub25 (because sound really sucked), but other than that, it was pretty much out of the book.

Couple of days ago I just saved user settings and loaded factory defaults, and just did some basic setup, like speaker distances, and source setup to use HDMI out from Oppo 95 so that I can start playing something, and this is where it gets interesting and baffling at the same time.

The only thing I did is to go under Bass Management Movie and tried two setups, one Adv Settings ON and one Adv Settings OFF, and as you know, it sets all five speakers and sub to 80 THX crossover when the settings are ON. When I have Adv Settings ON it shows that Sub Polarity is Inverted (by default, is that right?), and Sub Phase is defaulting at 15 degrees (is that right?). I would expect the Polarity to be Normal, and Phase to be zero. I have ARC OFF under source setup. It sounds better with Adv Settings ON and with ARC OFF (Dolby Vol is always OFF). Sound is just awful with ARC ON, not so bad with ADV Settings OFF.

I have two few questions; first, why it is defaulting Polarity to Inverted, and Phase to 15 degree (I did try to change Polarity to Normal, and Phase to 0, but it sounds better with where it is right now, not a huge difference but still). I would expect Polarity to be Normal, and Phase to be 0. Now here is the interesting part; my system is sounding amazing with these settings, it has never sounded this good, I can leave it where it is, sure, but I know by reading what all you guys have said that it can sound better if my ARC can really do its thing. Believe me when I say this that there is a day and night difference in the sound I have right now with the settings I described above and the sound I have (had) with ARC engaging and all that good stuff. It is so much more open, and clear. The only way I can define the sound with ARC on and other good stuff is the sound you get with a towel thrown on the speakers.

My next question becomes what’s wrong; I don’t believe that my ARC procedure is incorrect, then is it the microphone, or something more than that, I have no idea, but I would surely like to get to the bottom of this, so please let me know what do you think on this issue. I am thinking there is some hardware issue, it might be the microphone or something in the D2v itself. But at this point I am at least enjoying very good sound from my system, may be not the best possible, but it never sounded this good.

Another thing I would like to know is that you have always said to set the Polarity on the sub itself, but if D2v setup has those settings then why not use those, it is lot easier to change those settings sitting at your listening position rather than have someone else do that what you try to listen for the peak volume. My sub does not have Polarity setting on it, so please tell me why we should not use Polarity and Phase under D2v setup itself. Thank you very much.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The Factory Default settings for Subwoofer Polarity and Phase are Normal and 0. If that's not what you are getting when you do a Reset then your unit either needs a firmware re-install or hardware service.


There's no problem at all with using the Polarity and Phase controls in the Anthem to make those Subwoofer adjustments SO LONG AS YOU ONLY HAVE ONE SUBWOOFER! If you have MORE than one Subwoofer, however, you can't make the adjustments with the controls in the Anthem because they alter both Subwoofer outputs at the same time -- i.e., there are not separate adjustments for each Subwoofer. So instead you have to use controls built into the Subwoofers themselves.



Regarding your poor results with ARC, obviously something is wrong. It is simply not possible for things to be right and the audio with ARC to sound as bad as you describe. I.e., it's not like ARC just doesn't work well for some rooms or some speakers or some particular taste in audio content.


Now there are several possibilities, but the first thing to do is start with the basics. Make sure you have the right firmware installed -- that's V3.09 for your D2v. Check that by pressing Select once on the remote. Make sure you are using the right version of the ARC application -- that's V3.0.2. Check that by running the ARC application in the advanced mode (the one that shows the charts), then About in the Help menu.


Next make sure that you are using the correct ARC microphone calibration file. Your install of ARC on your Windows PC should have placed two files in Windows Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction. One of those is the ARC license and the other is the individualized mic calibration file. They both have names made up of numbers: The serial number of your D2v and the serial number of your ARC mic. Check that the two files you've got actually match your D2v and your ARC mic. If not, Anthem tech support can email you the correct 2 files.


Next understand how ARC places stuff in your D2v. When you do an Upload, ARC loads Room Correction Parameters into a special memory (which you can not see) and ALSO loads settings into the Setup memory. The settings are your speaker configuration, crossover values, and speaker level trims. Those values that ARC Uploads into Setup are matched against the calculation it made to produce the Room Correction Parameters. So if you alter those values in Setup you will break the ARC solution.


After each ARC Upload you should Save User and Installer Settings. That way you won't accidentally destroy the ARC Uploaded settings in Setup by restoring settings from one of those two memories. And of course you also should not go in and start fiddling with the settings ARC has Uploaded. If you think you MIGHT have messed up what ARC Uploaded, then the best solution is to open your latest ARC results file in the ARC application and redo the Upload. (No need to re-Measure or re-Calculate).


Now, I believe we've talked about how to take Measurement for ARC. The rules are simple, but even if you screw them up quite a bit you are not going to end up with audio that sounds like somebody threw a towel over it. So either the stuff ARC has Uploaded has been mistakenly altered after the fact (i.e., you changed the wrong things in Setup), or the ARC results aren't getting remembered correctly in your D2v (a hardware fault), or the ARC results aren't being produced correctly from your Measurements (a bad mic, the wrong mic calibration file, or faulty function of your computer).


Anthem tech support has tools that let them look inside an ARC results file and see things that will not be displayed by the ARC application. So you should let Anthem know what's happening and ask them to look at the ARC file you email to them. This is the ARC results file itself -- not just picture captures of the charts. From that, they ought to be able to tell whether the ARC mic seems to be working -- again, presuming you've already verified you have the correct mic calibration file -- and whether the calculated results look plausible.


If none of the above gets you a solution, then the only other possibility is that the ARC memory is faulty in your D2v or the DSP audio processing electronics aren't working correctly. Before sending the unit in for service, be sure to try a re-install of the firmware, and then re-Measure for ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38310#post_22373830
> 
> 
> Bob and All,
> 
> Now you piqued my curiosity and question: I do, indeed have true full-range speakers that go -3dB at 23Hz and -6dB at 20Hz and -10dB at 17Hz. They go up to 45kHz. I also have a sub that goes to 18Hz at -3db.
> 
> Movies are fine and optimized. No complaints with movies.
> 
> However, *for music only*, I want to get the optimal configuration with my full range speakers. Right now, I'm indeed cutting off at 30Hz. However I'd like to test and try overlap of both the sub and my full-range speakers between 30Hz and below. The reason for this is that the room is very, very large (that's why I have full range speakers and a 15" sub). I feel as though I need just a bit more weight at the bottom end---not for explosions, etc, but for appropriate weight and impact of instruments at lower frequencies.
> 
> So, if I want to test an overlap both the sub and the full-range speakers at the lowest frequencies:
> 
> What is the best way/practice to overlap full range and a sub? I recall seeing it once in the manual and can't find it again. I don't know if this was with my 20v or with my 50v.
> Does Anthem recommend this approach in my specific situation (I recall that they don't recommend overlap)
> Are there other configuration options/suggestions? There's no specific LFE channel in music, so it's not like I can just turn up the DB in the speaker config.
> 
> Am I just barking up the wrong tree? Any thoughts are much appreciated.
> 
> Theo



You don't need to use the SuperSub setting as ARC often does it for you. If you have the targets for your Mains set to 60Hz, for example, and ARC picks 120Hz for the sub cutoff, the sub will overlap up to 120Hz. Or at least mine does.


----------



## paradigm25

Thanks Bob. I will go over things one more time this weekend. One question though. If I am going to use ARC on all sources, then should I still worry about adjusting Polarity and Phase in D2v or ARC will take care of that (I am using one sub).


If I should adjust the Polarity and Phase manually before running ARC (in D2v), then at what stage it should be done, i.e. right after a reset, or after running ARC, but I will have to setup at lease speaker distances, and FM or DVD player to play something (I have AIX discs).


I have read lot of posts, but somehow this question is still not clear in my mind. Thanks.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38340#post_22380201
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I will go over things one more time this weekend. One question though. If I am going to use ARC on all sources, then should I still worry about adjusting Polarity and Phase in D2v or ARC will take care of that (I am using one sub).
> 
> If I should adjust the Polarity and Phase manually before running ARC (in D2v), then at what stage it should be done, i.e. right after a reset, or after running ARC, but I will have to setup at lease speaker distances, and FM or DVD player to play something (I have AIX discs).
> 
> I have read lot of posts, but somehow this question is still not clear in my mind. Thanks.



ARC will not set distances, polarity or phase. These have to be done manually and can be done before or after ARC.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If you only have 1 Subwoofer then you can safely set distances and Sub Polarity and Phase before OR after setting up ARC. This is because ARC only hears one speaker at a time.


But if you have 2 or more Subwoofers then you must set distances (all speakers) and Polarity/Phase (individually using controls on each Sub) BEFORE Measuring for ARC. This is because ARC hears both Subs playing together and thus their relative Phase makes a difference, and because you can't set Phase correctly before you enter the distances. For a set of Subs, since there is only one distance entry, use the average of their distances. Their individual Phase adjustments will correct for the actual distance difference to each of them.

--Bob


----------



## bohai

OK, on my DV2, I was having video issues. Confirmed it was not line to TV(FWIW I go from my D2v with an HDMI out, to a balun switch, CAT6 cable, to a balun converter and then HDMI to TV) TV is 0ver 50 ft from AV closet. Connected DTV box to balun switch, all fine, so ruled out balun or CAT 6 cable. Replaced HDMI out to balun switch. Now getting great picture but no sound. Just switching teh HDMI out should not affect sound.


Any suggestions? D2v is 1 week old.


----------



## bohai

I wanted to add I am not getting sound output from any source.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Do the level calibration noises in the setup menu work?


If they do, the only easy, and I use the term loosely here, method of figuring this out is to temporarily break the setup down to a basic one, starting with a flat panel and shorter run of straight copper if possible between D2v and display, and adding HDMI components now in use one by one until the problem reappears. If it doesn't work from the start then contact tech support.


Bypassing the D2v to troubleshoot intuitively is "analog diagnosis" and doesn't work with HDMI because it uses 2-way communication and too many factors to account for without means of monitoring and analyzing HDMI transactions. Also, the DTV box doesn't use 1080p60 nor Deep Color, which the D2v will try to output if the downstream device says it accepts it, therefore a bandwidth issue anywhere in the connections between D2v and TV is another possibility.


You may want to send an equipment list including model numbers to tech support. They're pretty familiar with situations involving "problem" cable/sat box models, baluns, matrix switchers etc and what may be done about each.


If your dealer ordered your D2v from the factory recently it probably has v3.09 but check by pressing Status/Select and if a previous version is displayed, an update is the first step in order.


----------



## bohai

DEaler ordered two weeks ago from Anthem. It was drop shipped to him then I received it last week. It is 3.01(why would the factory send out a unit with the old 3.01).


Anyway, I am not getting SOUND ON FROM ANY SOURCE. Mute is not on. Amp is on.


----------



## bohai

Ok I got sound back, but it is disturbing that I had to turn the unit on/off numerous times before getting sound to come back on. I touched nothing on the menus to get it back. It just started when I turned it on the last time


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38340#post_22384141
> 
> 
> Ok I got sound back, but it is disturbing that I had to turn the unit on/off numerous times before getting sound to come back on. I touched nothing on the menus to get it back. It just started when I turned it on the last time



Now time to update firmware to v3.09 and see if that helps.

John


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Sorry for the troubles but initial setup sometimes takes a while before it's ironed out, especially in more complex systems.


The unit shipped with the previous software because the current software didn't exist on the day that the unit shipped. When v3.09 was approved for general release all inventory at the factory was updated, the same day.


The sound loss is odd unless the amp is using an auto-on mode. I recommend installing v3.09 and then (but not before) contacting tech support if the problem reappears. Since the problem coincided with a change to HDMI connections, and since the new software contains changes to how HDMI works, however minor, it's only natural that the next step be to update the software. This can be done by connecting your laptop via the supplied serial cable and Keyspan adapter, the same way that ARC is connected, or if you wish, you can contact your dealer about having the update done.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I suspect a setup error with the Baluns. I've seen this before. There are switch settings on the Baluns at each end which alter the nature of the HDMI handshake. There are also typically two cable runs between the Baluns meaning 4 possible connections to come loose in the sockets NOT COUNTING the HDMI cable at either end.


I suspect the difference you are seeing is that the DTV box you used to check the Baluns does not enforce copy protection.


START by double checking the set of connections at each end of the Balun path. If that doesn't provide an easy fix, check the Manual for the Baluns for HDMI handshake switch settings (being sure to distinguish the transmitter end from the receiver end).

--Bob


----------



## rsinclair

Help!


I just installed a firmware upgrade (3.09) on my d2v for the first time, and it's made my d2v completely unusable.


I downloaded the latest firmware file from the Anthem website, followed all instructions for installation to the tee, and successfully upgraded the firmware with no problems.


However, upon rebooting the system, ALL of my inputs flicker out after a few seconds. Tried with a Cable box and my HTPC (both on HDMI) going out to my Pioneer Kuro. I made NO hardware or cable adjustments at all. I made sure to save my User Settings before the upgrade as instructed, and reloaded them and still experience the problem. Even the Anthem's built in Settings menu (accessed via holding down MENU) flickers out to black, so I have to use the LED panel to make adjustments. Also tried loading Factory Default settings, but it didn't fix anything.


I tried switching my output cable from HDMI Out 1 to HDMI Out 2, and it didn't help much at all. Instead of dropping out after 5 seconds (and usually staying out), it will drop out momentarily every 30 seconds or so, and come back, then drop out again 30 seconds (repeatedly and consistently.)


Also after switching to HDMI, I noticed the PCM sound on my Xbox 360 no longer works — after the initial bootup sound, the system outputs what sounds like a repeating cricket sound constantly.


I'd be on the phone with Anthem support right now, but of course they're closed until Monday AM.


Has anyone else experienced any issue like this? What's the solution?


Do I need to roll back my firmware to an early version? This is the first firmware upgrade I've done, not sure what the firmware was before but was whatever came factory-installed back in April 2010. *Update*: I pulled the CD-ROM that came with my system and it has a copy of firmware v2.08 (dated Nov. 20 2009) on it. Should I attempt to install this firmware? Will it even allow it to be installed over the new version?


Thanks for any input, this is infuriating!


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsinclair*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38340#post_22385381
> 
> 
> Help!
> 
> I just installed a firmware upgrade (3.09) on my d2v for the first time, and it's made my d2v completely unusable.
> 
> I downloaded the latest firmware file from the Anthem website, followed all instructions for installation to the tee, and successfully upgraded the firmware with no problems.
> 
> However, upon rebooting the system, ALL of my inputs flicker out after a few seconds. Tried with a Cable box and my HTPC (both on HDMI) going out to my Pioneer Kuro. I made NO hardware or cable adjustments at all. I made sure to save my User Settings before the upgrade as instructed, and reloaded them and still experience the problem. Even the Anthem's built in Settings menu (accessed via holding down MENU) flickers out to black, so I have to use the LED panel to make adjustments. Also tried loading Factory Default settings, but it didn't fix anything.
> 
> I tried switching my output cable from HDMI Out 1 to HDMI Out 2, and it didn't help much at all. Instead of dropping out after 5 seconds (and usually staying out), it will drop out momentarily every 30 seconds or so, and come back, then drop out again 30 seconds (repeatedly and consistently.)
> 
> Also after switching to HDMI, I noticed the PCM sound on my Xbox 360 no longer works — after the initial bootup sound, the system outputs what sounds like a repeating cricket sound constantly.
> 
> I'd be on the phone with Anthem support right now, but of course they're closed until Monday AM.
> 
> Has anyone else experienced any issue like this? What's the solution?
> 
> Do I need to roll back my firmware to an early version? This is the first firmware upgrade I've done, not sure what the firmware was before but was whatever came factory-installed back in April 2010. *Update*: I pulled the CD-ROM that came with my system and it has a copy of firmware v2.08 (dated Nov. 20 2009) on it. Should I attempt to install this firmware? Will it even allow it to be installed over the new version?
> 
> Thanks for any input, this is infuriating!




I would do another install of 3.09 then if it does not work do a rollback to the old software.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Re-install V3.09. Do it just like the first time, don't skip any steps.


Download a fresh copy from the Anthem web site and use that.


Before starting the Installer, unplug all of your HDMI Source devices and your Display from wall power. This will make sure you can't have any live HDMI connections during the install.


If the re-install does not fix it, I suggest you wait until you can talk to Anthem on Monday.


The prior version, if you have to roll back is V2.10. Anthem can make that available to you.

--Bob


----------



## rsinclair




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsinclair*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38340#post_22385381
> 
> 
> Help!
> 
> I just installed a firmware upgrade (3.09) on my d2v for the first time, and it's made my d2v completely unusable.
> 
> I downloaded the latest firmware file from the Anthem website, followed all instructions for installation to the tee, and successfully upgraded the firmware with no problems.
> 
> However, upon rebooting the system, ALL of my inputs flicker out after a few seconds.



After some more _sleuthing_, I've figured out what the problem seemed to be: I have a Gefen HDMI Detective installed (one of the many things I tried to minimize Shocking Pink screens). I removed it and the system seemed to stabilize. I was able to make it through a whole movie and tried some Xbox and didn't have any video dropouts.


So word of warning to anyone updating firmware if you've got an HDMI Detective installed—remove it! It can probably be reinstalled after the firmware update (as long as its settings are flushed), but I'm going to see if the firmware update addresses any of the Pink screen or source switching issues I've been plagued with before I give it another shot.


-R


----------



## tranle

^

I think that the Gefen device is supposed to take a snapshot of HDMI handshake, and for D2* it is recommended to remove all the HDMI devices before firmware install.

It may be that after the firmware install you need to tell the Gefen device to re-take another snapshot.


----------



## bohai

I don't think it is the baluns as they were working just fine thru my old Onkyo. The new type of baluns also only require one Cat6 out vs the older style, which required 2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38340#post_22388007
> 
> 
> I don't think it is the baluns as they were working just fine thru my old Onkyo. The new type of baluns also only require one Cat6 out vs the older style, which required 2.



I still think it would be wise to pull out the Manual for the baluns and review the switch settings on them at each end.


Failing that, you'll likely need to work this issue with Anthem tech support. They may have history with the type of balun hardware you are using.


It's a pain in the neck, but at some point you may need to move the Anthem and a Source close enough to the display that you can check whether things work properly with a "normal" -- say 6 foot long -- "high speed" HDMI cable. For audio muting issues, check whether the headphone jack audio is also muting. If so you can use headphones to test this when you move the unit rather than needing to run interconnects to your power amp.

--Bob


----------



## Wookii

I wonder if anyone can help me trouble shoot an issue I am having with my D2v and new amps.


I have just bought a new set of bespoke amps for my home cinema set-up; three monoblocs for the front LCR and a multi-channel amp for the rears, replacing my Sunfire 7-channel amp. I hooked them up last night via XLR with 12v triggers from the D2v to switch them on, and I am getting a strange low level, but high(ish) pitched whine from all of my speakers, together with a great deal of hiss. The noise is easily audible from a couple of feet in front of each speaker, and because it is coming from all speakers, it is audible at the listening position.


The amps are high quality units, which has measured SNR levels in excess of 125dB, so I don't think they are at fault here. They also have ground lift switches on the rear - I have tried these and there is no effect on the whine/noise. It may be a red herring, but the amps do have quite a high sensitivity (input voltage) - the is set to 4.0v for each of the monoblocs, 2.5v for the multichannel amp.


The noise also stops when I switch the D2v off, so the amps aren't picking up any interference independently or sending a signal to the speakers off their own back.


Also the level (volume) of the noise and the hiss does not change when I change the volume on the D2v - it is even unchanged when I put the D2v on mute.


What is most strange, is that I have the led screen on my D2v set to turn off after several seconds of remote control inactivity, and when it does, the pitch of the whine changes (goes slightly lower in pitch), and when I press a button on the remote which of course turns the D2v's LED screen back on, the pitch of the noise/whine increases again.


This latter point leads me to suspect there is some issue in the communication from the D2v and the amps?


Has anyone encountered anything like this with their D2v at all? Any suggestions of things to try to get to the bottom of the problem, would be most welcome.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38340#post_22388007
> 
> 
> I don't think it is the baluns as they were working just fine thru my old Onkyo.



As mentioned, diagnosing HDMI this way often leads to nowhere, for example the previous AVR may not have been sending out Deep Color (just one of many possible causes).


The observation that the balun worked in another system is valid and useful but the rationalization to the effect of "then it must be the D2v" is bound to cause unnecessary frustration and delay. Since the beginning of this thread, which started with our first HDMI product, there are countless examples as such. The way that HDMI works is much too complicated to diagnose through process of elimination. Please heed all the suggestions provided - we're only trying to help.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38340#post_22388627
> 
> 
> What is most strange, is that I have the led screen on my D2v set to turn off after several seconds of remote control inactivity, and when it does, the pitch of the whine changes (goes slightly lower in pitch), and when I press a button on the remote which of course turns the D2v's LED screen back on, the pitch of the noise/whine increases again.



What happens if the system consists of nothing but D2v, one amp, any number of speakers, both power cords connected to the same power source, and no other connections whatsoever besides power and D2v-amp interconnect and speaker? Please send your response to tech support - I'm about to start my regular work week and won't be monitoring posts.


----------



## Wookii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38340#post_22388668
> 
> 
> What happens if the system consists of nothing but D2v, one amp, any number of speakers, both power cords connected to the same power source, and no other connections whatsoever besides power and D2v-amp interconnect and speaker? Please send your response to tech support - I'm about to start my regular work week and won't be monitoring posts.



Hi Nick,


I will try this when I get home in a few hours (I'm based in the UK).


Is there an e-mail address for Tech Support - I've not had to use it before?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38340#post_22388684
> 
> 
> Hi Nick,
> 
> I will try this when I get home in a few hours (I'm based in the UK).
> 
> Is there an e-mail address for Tech Support - I've not had to use it before?


[email protected]


----------



## EricE

First post in the Anthem thread after dreaming of owning one for a long time...









Finally got a D2 and it's been a joy ever since.


Everything is working perfectly except I do not see the onscreen setup menu on my display. I am strictly using HDMI but I have also tried an s-video cable as I believe that is where the onscreen display is generated. All I get is a blank screen when I select the setup menu… I do see the volume and status display and also the video setup menus. It leads me to believe that the s-video board may be the problem.


Is there a later software version that I could try that is still in the beta area? I believe it is 1.47 I am currently still running 1.33


I got up to page 400 so please forgive me if it has been discussed before.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EricE*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38340#post_22388758
> 
> 
> First post in the Anthem thread after dreaming of owning one for a long time...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got a D2 and it's been a joy ever since.
> 
> Everything is working perfectly except I do not see the onscreen setup menu on my display. I am strictly using HDMI but I have also tried an s-video cable as I believe that is where the onscreen display is generated. All I get is a blank screen when I select the setup menu… I do see the volume and status display and also the video setup menus. It leads me to believe that the s-video board may be the problem.
> 
> Is there a later software version that I could try that is still in the beta area? I believe it is 1.47 I am currently still running 1.33
> 
> I got up to page 400 so please forgive me if it has been discussed before.



Eric,


I assume you mean a D2 and not a D2v. Double-check in the setup menu that S-Video is indeed selected as the on-screen menu output. That's the first step.


Theo


----------



## dmusoke

Has anyone ever noticed how 'noisy' the D2v can be?


When i mute the D2v sound and place my ears next to my rear speakers(closest to the unit), i hear significant broadband noise from speaker. When i shutoff the D2v, then the noise level dramatically drops and only hear the faint amplifier noise. When i turn on the D2v and mute it, the noise level jumps up again. I even went and bought RCA shorting caps and placed them on all analog and digital inputs on my D2v. Noise levels didn't change much, if at all.


Even as a long short, i replaced my RCA connections to my amp with XLRs. Meh ...tough to tell if that helped at all. Noise is just as much as with the RCAs.


In my system anyway, the D2v is the noisiest component. Sad that one pays $8K for a pre-pro that isn't as quiet as you'd expect.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38300_100#post_22389455
> 
> 
> In my system anyway, the D2v is the noisiest component. Sad that one pays $8K for a pre-pro that isn't as quiet as you'd expect.



Stone Cold Quite here with THOUSANDS of Watts of Audio


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389465
> 
> 
> Stone Cold Quite here with THOUSANDS of Watts of Audio



+ 1


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389455
> 
> 
> Has anyone ever noticed how 'noisy' the D2v can be?
> 
> When i mute the D2v sound and place my ears next to my rear speakers(closest to the unit), i hear significant broadband noise from speaker. When i shutoff the D2v, then the noise level dramatically drops and only hear the faint amplifier noise. When i turn on the D2v and mute it, the noise level jumps up again. I even went and bought RCA shorting caps and placed them on all analog and digital inputs on my D2v. Noise levels didn't change much, if at all.
> 
> Even as a long short, i replaced my RCA connections to my amp with XLRs. Meh ...tough to tell if that helped at all. Noise is just as much as with the RCAs.
> 
> In my system anyway, the D2v is the noisiest component. Sad that one pays $8K for a pre-pro that isn't as quiet as you'd expect.



Maybe start disconnecting each of your sources to the D2v one at a time and see if you can find the source of the noise that the D2v is amplifying.


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389544
> 
> 
> + 1



Not to jump on the band wagon, but same here. I do not experiance that noise at all. Perhaps it is comming from anther sorce? Or you are getting cross talk from a router or a cell phone?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389465
> 
> 
> Stone Cold Quite here with THOUSANDS of Watts of Audio





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389544
> 
> 
> + 1





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389556
> 
> 
> Maybe start disconnecting each of your sources to the D2v one at a time and see if you can find the source of the noise that the D2v is amplifying.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389559
> 
> 
> Not to jump on the band wagon, but same here. I do not experiance that noise at all. Perhaps it is comming from anther sorce? Or you are getting cross talk from a router or a cell phone?



OK guys ...first of all thanks for the feedback you've provided. Very much appreciated. But i have to ask whether you quieted down all other external sources of noise in your theater(AC, fans, lights, fridge etc) before you performed the listening tests, playing some music for while(10 secs or so) before muting the D2v? Forgive my arrogance here but also did you place your ear right next to your speaker with the amplifier(s) on (and not in auto-mute as some amps do)?


My only sources into the D2v are the DVR, via Optical and HDMI and the Oppo 95 player via HDMI, Stereo XLR and 5.1 MCH analog. The Oppo is off but will test both it and the cable box for possible sources of noise.


Thanks again guys! Appreciate the feedback







!

*EDIT*:


Removed all my sources from the D2v and no apparent change in noise levels


----------



## gerard1meehan

I have shut everything down as in lights, AC, ETC. the works. I have had my ears to my speakers doing this just the other night as I thought one of my Paradigm S8’s was having a tweeter or clicking issue. That issue was a rouge cricket, but I could hear it with during the playback of a movie. With that I had my whole system fired up (D2v, 2 x P2, and a P5 Amps, Oppo 83, Sonos, & DVR Sat box) and muted it and heard nothing. My S8’s fronts are 4 feet from my D2v, and my Sub 1 is less than two feet from it and no noise.


Do you have a line conditioned between your D2v and the outlet? Any other device on the same circuit as the amps?


By the way I had bunch of issues like this in an earlier system and it wound up that every time my blackberry sent or received and e-mail I got the noise you are referring to.


----------



## sfm

So I have an aged D2 (purchased in 2006) with firmware 1.33 and to it is connected an Oppo BDP-83 (latest firmware via HDMI)... I have the Oppo configured with secondary audio off and output set to LPCM... with EVERY DTS-MA 7.1 soundtrack I notice nasty cracks/clipping in the right/left mains and center during loud/active passages (scary enough to think that it might be damaging the speakers... which are JTR triple 8's)... particulary bad was the BD of "War Horse" (the cracks/clipping not necessarily the movie), the scene where the main character participated in the trench assault... good lord I thought the speakers were blown...


To test, I configured the Oppo to use just the DTS core and, as expected (since the core is only 5.1?), everything was fine... Next I tested the "War Horse" BD using my HTPC (via HDMI to the D2) and played it using TMT 3 (which is configured to output MA as uncompressed LPCM) and it played fine as well. Anyone else with an Oppo 83/D2 combo notice anything similar?


----------



## EricE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389342
> 
> 
> Eric,
> 
> I assume you mean a D2 and not a D2v. Double-check in the setup menu that S-Video is indeed selected as the on-screen menu output. That's the first step.
> 
> Theo



Yes I am running a D2. In the setup menu I have set it to show to all. I hope it wasn't just a simple mistake as having to specify s-video...


----------



## EricE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389930
> 
> 
> So I have an aged D2 (purchased in 2006) with firmware 1.33 and to it is connected an Oppo BDP-83 (latest firmware via HDMI)... I have the Oppo configured with secondary audio off and output set to LPCM... with EVERY DTS-MA 7.1 soundtrack I notice nasty cracks/clipping in the right/left mains and center during loud/active passages (scary enough to think that it might be damaging the speakers... which are JTR triple 8's)... particulary bad was the BD of "War Horse" (the cracks/clipping not necessarily the movie), the scene where the main character participated in the trench assault... good lord I thought the speakers were blown...
> 
> To test, I configured the Oppo to use just the DTS core and, as expected (since the core is only 5.1?), everything was fine... Next I tested the "War Horse" BD using my HTPC (via HDMI to the D2) and played it using TMT 3 (which is configured to output MA as uncompressed LPCM) and it played fine as well. Anyone else with an Oppo 83/D2 combo notice anything similar?



sfm, I am running a Oppo 83SE and the only problem I have heard is the known problem with Toy Story and Jurassic Park 1. It is partially solved by turning secondary audio to "on" thereby listening to the core 5.1 output. I believe this is a known issue with the Oppo83/D2 combo.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389866
> 
> 
> I have shut everything down as in lights, AC, ETC. the works. I have had my ears to my speakers doing this just the other night as I thought one of my Paradigm S8’s was having a tweeter or clicking issue. That issue was a rouge cricket, but I could hear it with during the playback of a movie. With that I had my whole system fired up (D2v, 2 x P2, and a P5 Amps, Oppo 83, Sonos, & DVR Sat box) and muted it and heard nothing. My S8’s fronts are 4 feet from my D2v, and my Sub 1 is less than two feet from it and no noise.
> 
> Do you have a line conditioned between your D2v and the outlet? Any other device on the same circuit as the amps?
> 
> By the way I had bunch of issues like this in an earlier system and it wound up that every time my blackberry sent or received and e-mail I got the noise you are referring to.



Gerard ...thx for the feedback. I have a Torus line conditioner between the wall and the rest of the electronics in my rack. I unplugged the D2v from the Torus and went direct to the wall outlet. No change in noise levels sadly but it seems the noise is mainly centered around 60Hz in the woofer with other higher frequencies heard in my tweeters.


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EricE*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22390054
> 
> 
> sfm, I am running a Oppo 83SE and the only problem I have heard is the known problem with Toy Story and Jurassic Park 1. It is partially solved by turning secondary audio to "on" thereby listening to the core 5.1 output. I believe this is a known issue with the Oppo83/D2 combo.



Interesting... all MA 7.1 BD's I have (admittedly not a lot... but the recent Hunger Games also exhibits the same issues for me) and all that I have rented have exhibited this same behavior (and turning secondary audio on is the way I work around it... but not a desirable solution)... I don't understand why this wouldn't be just an Oppo issue as opposed to an Oppo/D2 combo issue since the D2 doesn't accept 7.1 LPCM and assuming the Oppo properly recognizes this wouldn't the Oppo simply mix the back 2 channels with the surround channels and call it a day?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22390352
> 
> 
> Shot in the dark but:
> 
> 1. Did you try unplugging the incoming cable tv coax from your DVR? Cable TV feed can be a nasty source of RF and spuriae as well as causing a ground loop. If this proves the source of your noise contaminant, you may need ground blocking adapter on the coax or call your cable company and complain about the noisy line. In my case, squirrels had chewed the wires outside my house, exposing the copper.
> 
> 2. Did you try plugging the unit into another outlet?
> 
> 3. Do you also hear the noises through the headphone output?
> 
> 4. Can you test the unit at the dealer's store or do you know someone at whose home you can set up your Anthem temporarily? If the noises you hear are also present in the headphone output, no need to bring anything else like amps and wires.
> 
> Good luck.



1. One of the first things i suspected and did. No change.


2. Yes, no change.


3. Don't have headphones to test with







.


4. Dealer is hours away and have no friends close by(I know. Its pathetic, isn't it?)


I will have to come up with something else.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Check the Hum and Hiss FAQ in the Audio Theory forum here for suggestions.


A common source of hiss is radio frequency interference from room light dimmers, perhaps in a different room. To test this remove power from the dimmer (not just turn it down). Many dimmers have a cutoff switch on them you are supposed to use before changing bulbs -- or cut off the power at the circuit breaker box.


60Hz interference is typically either ground loop current (see that FAQ) or power line interference that has penetrated cables which have lesser quality shielding. That last can often be addressed simply by shifting cables around.


Isolating the cause of ground loop current requires some logical thinking about how to cable things up in different combos. Ground loop current is garbage current (often 60Hz power line interference) that travels between your devices along the shields of the cables connecting them looking for a path back to ground. A device in the path doesn't even have to be turned on to form the next link in the path. The exit to ground is often through the 3rd pin of a 3-prong power outlet on some device. The most common source of ground loop garbage is stuff coming into your house on the shield of an improperly grounded cable or satellite TV feed wire. The next most common is due to using multiple power outlets which happen to be wired to different circuits with different ground potential. All of this stuff has easy fixes once you isolate the cause.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22390290
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EricE*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22390054
> 
> 
> sfm, I am running a Oppo 83SE and the only problem I have heard is the known problem with Toy Story and Jurassic Park 1. It is partially solved by turning secondary audio to "on" thereby listening to the core 5.1 output. I believe this is a known issue with the Oppo83/D2 combo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting... all MA 7.1 BD's I have (admittedly not a lot... but the recent Hunger Games also exhibits the same issues for me) and all that I have rented have exhibited this same behavior (and turning secondary audio on is the way I work around it... but not a desirable solution)... I don't understand why this wouldn't be just an Oppo issue as opposed to an Oppo/D2 combo issue since the D2 doesn't accept 7.1 LPCM and assuming the Oppo properly recognizes this wouldn't the Oppo simply mix the back 2 channels with the surround channels and call it a day?
Click to expand...


The problem you are having is a bug in the OPPO 83. Certain recent 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks are authored in a way that the decoder in the OPPO 83 can't handle properly. How "certified" studio encoders can produce audio tracks which "certified" decoding chips can't handle would make for interesting reading I suppose. Good old DTS. The problem only happens in the OPPO 83 (not their newer players, which use newer decoder hardware) and only for 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks when the player is doing the decoding -- i.e., HDMI LPCM output or Analog output.


There's no problem with 5.1 DTS-HD MA tracks or traditional, lossy, DTS tracks. Not all 7.1 DTS-HD MA tracks will exhibit the problem, but it looks like you've just managed to try viewing a number of tracks that do exhibit the problem. "War Horse", the first "Jurassic Park", and the 7.1 track on "Toy Story 3" are examples. The 5.1 track which is ALSO on Toy Story 3 has no problem.


For folks with a decoding AVR (like the D2v) the workaround would be to use Bitstream output from the OPPO 83. Since your D2 can not decode 7.1 DTS-HD MA, the best workaround is to set Secondary Audio ON, which causes the full-bit, rate, but still lossy, 5.1 DTS 1.536Mbps "compatibility" track to be used instead in the player. Not ideal, to be sure, but the best known workaround. Of course for Toy Story 3 the workaround would be to select its alternate, 5.1 DTS-HD MA track.


The audible symptoms are often described as sounding like "clipping", and that's a pretty fair description, although technically, what is happening is not clipping. For example lowering the output Volume on the OPPO's Analog outputs won't help.


The bug is apparently tied up with a hardware issue on the decoder chip used in the 83. It does not appear that a fix is possible in firmware.

--Bob


----------



## EricE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EricE*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22390030
> 
> 
> Yes I am running a D2. In the setup menu I have set it to show to all. I hope it wasn't just a simple mistake as having to specify s-video...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389342
> 
> 
> Eric,
> 
> I assume you mean a D2 and not a D2v. Double-check in the setup menu that S-Video is indeed selected as the on-screen menu output. That's the first step.
> 
> Theo



Just did a full reinstall of software ver. 1.33 and my ARC measurements.

Everything is back exactly as I left it and my on-screen display is operational again!!!!


All is perfect now!


Thanks to all the great info in this thread. Bob has been a help with both the D2 and the Oppo.

Good luck with your noise problem dmusoke. I just checked the noise floor of my system and it has never been this silent. I'm also using a P2 as my main amp and Harmon Citation amps to drive the other channels in bridged mode. Even those channels are silent. The only noise in my room now is from the display of the Velodyne SMS-1 controller that whines a bit when on so I make sure to turn off that display.


So far I am very very happy with the D2. So much so that I'm on the look out for a D2v even though it will cost another 4K to upgrade...


----------



## bohai

NEw issue with D2v, so tonight I am watching the local news. I pause the DVR, when I come back, there is a very muted sound. Cranked volume to 0 db, no increase in sound. Seems there are a lot of issues for a $9000 receiver that shouldn't be there.


----------



## bohai

Turned off and back on again, problem went away. My ppoint is that this should not be hapeening to a high end kit. I might expect it from Pioneer, Denon Onkyo, but they are also a LOT LESS EXPENSIVE. Detect hostility? YES, you do.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22391234
> 
> 
> Turned off and back on again, problem went away. My ppoint is that this should not be hapeening to a high end kit. I might expect it from Pioneer, Denon Onkyo, but they are also a LOT LESS EXPENSIVE. Detect hostility? YES, you do.



Many set top boxes (like DVRs) are infamous for having lousy HDMI implementations. Lots of folks use Optical Digital Audio cabling from their DVRs to avoid audio issues the DVR has on its HDMI output.

--Bob


----------



## bohai

Ok how do I set this up. I have a toslink digital and analog capabilities form my DTV DVR. Will I srill get my 7.1 Channel sound this way?


Funny thing is that having had the exact same setup and exact same cable for over a year to my old Oknyo, I NEVER experienced this problem. So with due respect Bob, as I know you are a valued member and contributor here, why is it always another component that causes the problem and not the Anthem?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22391234
> 
> 
> Turned off and back on again, problem went away. My ppoint is that this should not be hapeening to a high end kit. I might expect it from Pioneer, Denon Onkyo, but they are also a LOT LESS EXPENSIVE. Detect hostility? YES, you do.



Have you contacted Anthem? [email protected] All companys have issues but not all of them will help like Anthem.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22391281
> 
> 
> Ok how do I set this up. I have a toslink digital and analog capabilities form my DTV DVR. Will I srill get my 7.1 Channel sound this way?
> 
> 
> Funny thing is that having had the exact same setup and exact same cable for over a year to my old Oknyo, I NEVER experienced this problem. So with due respect Bob, as I know you are a valued member and contributor here, why is it always another component that causes the problem and not the Anthem?



It's not "always" another device. It is just "often" another device. HDMI handshakes in particular are driven by the Source device through the Anthem, which is likely a more complicated process for your DVR than was the case with the Onkyo.


Optical will give you only up to 5.1 channels input from the DVR. If your DVR is capable of playing 7.1 channel program content then you will need to use HDMI, in which case the next step is to consider upgrading your HDMI cables, which may reduce the chances the DVR has to deal with signal error situations (a task it may not be good at).


If you meant you were getting 5.1 from the DVR that was being expanded to 7.1 speaker output in the Anthem (the more normal scenario) then that will continue to work the same way using Optical audio from the DVR.


In Setup > Source Setup for your DVR input, simply change Audio In from HDMI Dig to whichever Optical input jack you have used.


In the DVR, set its Digital Audio output to use Bitstream (may be called Dolby Digital) instead of LPCM (which will only be stereo).

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22391216
> 
> 
> I pause the DVR, when I come back, there is a very muted sound. Cranked volume to 0 db, no increase in sound.



Which software version? In my last post I recommended updating v3.01 to v3.09 but you haven't indicated whether it's been done.


Another reminder - the worst way to diagnose HDMI is by elimination and conjecture. Comparing your new system vs old amounts to two data points out of millions possible, and the longest path to a solution.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389455
> 
> 
> When i mute the D2v sound and place my ears next to my rear speakers(closest to the unit), i hear significant broadband noise from speaker. When i shutoff the D2v, then the noise level dramatically drops and only hear the faint amplifier noise.



Can the noise be heard from a couple of feet away? If not, it's within spec. Sometimes it's within spec even if the noise can be heard from the listening position, like when super-efficient speakers are used.


Silence when ear is against tweeter is not a design criterion, and comparing amp noise to preamp noise is apples vs oranges. In general, preamps have a 20 dB or so lower signal to noise ratio than amps and this includes our lineup. All active devices generate random noise, and the higher the gain the higher the noise floor. The only way to completely remove it is to put the brakes on particle motion, though there will be other much bigger issues if temperature is low enough to make that happen.


----------



## Thxtheater

I need some help and suggestions here from the group: I'm looking for a good TV tuner solution to use with my AVM50v. I'm decommissioning Cable in my house and transitioning to over-the-air HD and streaming. Ideally, I'd like to route everything into my Anthem for two reasons:


1) Ease of switching and audio purposes.

2) Use of the 50v video card and options

3) Ability to send audio and video to a second zone where I have a second HDTV.


So, I believe that the only missing piece for over-the-air is an HD Tuner solution that I can use to give me either component or HDMI out.


Has anyone used a truly good solution?


Currently, I'm running the antenna to my HDTV and then using Toslink out back to my AVM50v.


I'd appreciate any feedback and additional suggestions.


Theo


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38300_100#post_22392098
> 
> 
> I need some help and suggestions here from the group: I'm looking for a good TV tuner solution to use with my AVM50v. I'm decommissioning Cable in my house and transitioning to over-the-air HD and streaming. Ideally, I'd like to route everything into my Anthem for two reasons:
> 
> 1) Ease of switching and audio purposes.
> 
> 2) Use of the 50v video card and options
> 
> 3) Ability to send audio and video to a second zone where I have a second HDTV.
> 
> So, I believe that the only missing piece for over-the-air is an HD Tuner solution that I can use to give me either component or HDMI out.
> 
> Has anyone used a truly good solution?
> 
> Currently, I'm running the antenna to my HDTV and then using Toslink out back to my AVM50v.
> 
> I'd appreciate any feedback and additional suggestions.
> 
> Theo



I use TiVo for Both Cable and OTA - But I am NOT SURE if the NEW TiVo's Have OTA.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22392137
> 
> 
> I use TiVo for Both Cable and OTA - But I am NOT SURE if the NEW TiVo's Have OTA.



I've indeed looked at the TiVo Premiere. Great product. The only drawback is the mandatory service fee for the first year.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38300_100#post_22392214
> 
> 
> I've indeed looked at the TiVo Premiere. Great product. The only drawback is the mandatory service fee for the first year.



Subscription Fee Every Year. Nothing is for Nothing


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22392227
> 
> 
> Subscription Fee Every Year. Nothing is for Nothing



Actually, for TiVo, you only need to pay for the first year. You can cancel after that. I had called them a few months ago during my initial explorations.


----------



## cvinfig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22392098
> 
> 
> I need some help and suggestions here from the group: I'm looking for a good TV tuner solution to use with my AVM50v. I'm decommissioning Cable in my house and transitioning to over-the-air HD and streaming. Ideally, I'd like to route everything into my Anthem for two reasons:
> 
> 1) Ease of switching and audio purposes.
> 
> 2) Use of the 50v video card and options
> 
> 3) Ability to send audio and video to a second zone where I have a second HDTV.
> 
> So, I believe that the only missing piece for over-the-air is an HD Tuner solution that I can use to give me either component or HDMI out.
> 
> Has anyone used a truly good solution?
> 
> Currently, I'm running the antenna to my HDTV and then using Toslink out back to my AVM50v.
> 
> I'd appreciate any feedback and additional suggestions.
> 
> Theo



Check out the Channel Master CM-7001 Antenna and Cable Tuner . More info from Channel Master ...


----------



## Shayne2

Hi


It appears that it maybe time to upgrade my avm 50v firmware form 2.11 for the first time since there is a posted 3.09. I am hoping I can get a bit of help from the ones in the know. I have arc software 3.02 installed.


1)
Is Bobs’ belt & suspenders approach still the preferred way to flash or is it now more slip streamed as far a retaining settings?


2)
I have backed up with Settings Backup creating a small 9.20 KB .a20 file is this approximately the correct size?


3)
I have tried to back up my settings with LiveVideoSettingsEditor with no success. I connect and it indicates “success found avm 50" not 50 v however when I click “get” it just hangs with pop up indicating “please wait.... receiving data.....” after an hour I hit abort in the pop up and the window closes so it is not frozen but never finishes. This is the com cable I have ran arc on a number of times without problem. But I need it working flawlessly now for sure. Do I need these settles and what maybe the fix?


4)
The software did not come with the Anthem Setup Editor program where would I download it? And is it required.


Regards


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22394423
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> It appears that it maybe time to upgrade my avm 50v firmware form 2.11 for the first time since there is a posted 3.09. I am hoping I can get a bit of help from the ones in the know. I have arc software 3.02 installed.
> 
> 1)
> Is Bobs’ belt & suspenders approach still the preferred way to flash or is it now more slip streamed as far a retaining settings?
> 2)
> I have backed up with Settings Backup creating a small 9.20 KB .a20 file is this approximately the correct size?
> 3)
> I have tried to back up my settings with LiveVideoSettingsEditor with no success. I connect and it indicates “success found avm 50" not 50 v however when I click “get” it just hangs with pop up indicating “please wait.... receiving data.....” after an hour I hit abort in the pop up and the window closes so it is not frozen but never finishes. This is the com cable I have ran arc on a number of times without problem. But I need it working flawlessly now for sure. Do I need these settles and what maybe the fix?
> 4)
> The software did not come with the Anthem Setup Editor program where would I download it? And is it required.
> Regards



Most people just do,

1. Disconnect HDMI sources.

2. Save User Setting

3. Load Default Settings

4. Start firmware upgrade.


Personally I just start without doing 1-4 but I prefer you do 1-4 so I don't get blamed if it doesn't work.









John


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cvinfig*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22392302
> 
> 
> Check out the Channel Master CM-7001 Antenna and Cable Tuner . More info from Channel Master ...



Thanks for the Channel Master reference. I had read a review about the ChannelMasterTV product on HomeTheater and was left with the impression of the extremely hot operating temperature. I didn't realize that they had other products too that were akin to more traditional tuner solutions. This looks like a good direction. Thanks for that reference. I'm going to look at this in more detail.


Theo


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389455
> 
> 
> Has anyone ever noticed how 'noisy' the D2v can be?
> 
> When i mute the D2v sound and place my ears next to my rear speakers(closest to the unit), i hear significant broadband noise from speaker. When i shutoff the D2v, then the noise level dramatically drops and only hear the faint amplifier noise. When i turn on the D2v and mute it, the noise level jumps up again. I even went and bought RCA shorting caps and placed them on all analog and digital inputs on my D2v. Noise levels didn't change much, if at all.
> 
> Even as a long short, i replaced my RCA connections to my amp with XLRs. Meh ...tough to tell if that helped at all. Noise is just as much as with the RCAs.
> 
> In my system anyway, the D2v is the noisiest component. Sad that one pays $8K for a pre-pro that isn't as quiet as you'd expect.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389465
> 
> 
> Stone Cold Quite here with THOUSANDS of Watts of Audio





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389544
> 
> 
> + 1





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389556
> 
> 
> Maybe start disconnecting each of your sources to the D2v one at a time and see if you can find the source of the noise that the D2v is amplifying.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389559
> 
> 
> Not to jump on the band wagon, but same here. I do not experiance that noise at all. Perhaps it is comming from anther sorce? Or you are getting cross talk from a router or a cell phone?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389866
> 
> 
> I have shut everything down as in lights, AC, ETC. the works. I have had my ears to my speakers doing this just the other night as I thought one of my Paradigm S8’s was having a tweeter or clicking issue. That issue was a rouge cricket, but I could hear it with during the playback of a movie. With that I had my whole system fired up (D2v, 2 x P2, and a P5 Amps, Oppo 83, Sonos, & DVR Sat box) and muted it and heard nothing. My S8’s fronts are 4 feet from my D2v, and my Sub 1 is less than two feet from it and no noise.
> 
> Do you have a line conditioned between your D2v and the outlet? Any other device on the same circuit as the amps?
> 
> By the way I had bunch of issues like this in an earlier system and it wound up that every time my blackberry sent or received and e-mail I got the noise you are referring to.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22391161
> 
> 
> ^ Check the Hum and Hiss FAQ in the Audio Theory forum here for suggestions.
> 
> A common source of hiss is radio frequency interference from room light dimmers, perhaps in a different room. To test this remove power from the dimmer (not just turn it down). Many dimmers have a cutoff switch on them you are supposed to use before changing bulbs -- or cut off the power at the circuit breaker box.
> 
> 60Hz interference is typically either ground loop current (see that FAQ) or power line interference that has penetrated cables which have lesser quality shielding. That last can often be addressed simply by shifting cables around.
> 
> Isolating the cause of ground loop current requires some logical thinking about how to cable things up in different combos. Ground loop current is garbage current (often 60Hz power line interference) that travels between your devices along the shields of the cables connecting them looking for a path back to ground. A device in the path doesn't even have to be turned on to form the next link in the path. The exit to ground is often through the 3rd pin of a 3-prong power outlet on some device. The most common source of ground loop garbage is stuff coming into your house on the shield of an improperly grounded cable or satellite TV feed wire. The next most common is due to using multiple power outlets which happen to be wired to different circuits with different ground potential. All of this stuff has easy fixes once you isolate the cause.
> 
> --Bob



Hey all:


After much anguish and toil late into the night yesterday, i managed to find the source of the hum. It wasn't the D2v as i had thought but it was the external bass manager i use to phase/time align my subs(AS-EQ1). The sub RCA outputs from my D2v are plugged into the EQ1 and whose output goes to my subwoofers. Somehow, connecting the D2v into the EQ1 caused the hum i have been experiening. Not sure why the shields of the d2v subouts and the EQ1 created a ground loop of sorts.


Anyway, i used the XLR outs of the D2v and went into a balun whose output fed the RCA inputs of the EQ1. Then its RCA outputs are fed back into the balun, which outputs an XLR outs for my sub. Now the noise level is gone. Thank you all for the help







.


- David


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22394497
> 
> 
> Most people just do,
> 
> 1. Disconnect HDMI sources.
> 
> 2. Save User Setting
> 
> 3. Load Default Settings
> 
> 4. Start firmware upgrade.
> 
> Personally I just start without doing 1-4 but I prefer you do 1-4 so I don't get blamed if it doesn't work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John



Thank you very much John. Status says 3.09 and i am listinging to Vavaldi again. Toke a really long time programing the video processor but it verified and gave me the green check mark of approval







. Not the most relaxing thing i have done today for sure.







Thanks again you guys are great.


Regards


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22394678
> 
> 
> Thank you very much John. Status says 3.09 and i am listinging to Vavaldi again. Toke a really long time programing the video processor but it verified and gave me the green check mark of approval
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Not the most relaxing thing i have done today for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again you guys are great.
> 
> Regards



Because you updated from a much earlier version, the video files took much longer to finish . Glad it worked for you.

John


----------



## Wookii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38340#post_22388668
> 
> 
> What happens if the system consists of nothing but D2v, one amp, any number of speakers, both power cords connected to the same power source, and no other connections whatsoever besides power and D2v-amp interconnect and speaker? Please send your response to tech support - I'm about to start my regular work week and won't be monitoring posts.



Just by way of an update I have tried this - one amp, one XLR connection from the D2v to the amp, all other connectors removed - the noise remains. I also, switched over to a different amp, and performed the test again - the noise is still there.


----------



## Shayne2

Thanks again for the help with 3.09 upgrade. I am wondering if this is the firmware for the 3D board up grade and if so after the board swap should all be up and running or is there a difference and i need to flash again?


Regards


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22394979
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the help with 3.09 upgrade. I am wondering if this is the firmware for the 3D board up grade and if so after the board swap should all be up and running or is there a difference and i need to flash again?
> 
> 
> Regards



I believe you'll have to redo the V3.09 installation to properly initialize the newly installed hardware. Since your video board is now already updated with the new firmware, the re-install will take only about 15 minutes.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22394964
> 
> 
> Just by way of an update I have tried this - one amp, one XLR connection from the D2v to the amp, all other connectors removed - the noise remains. I also, switched over to a different amp, and performed the test again - the noise is still there.



Was the other amp also XLR? If not, then it sounds like a D2v problem. Please try RCA connection if you haven't and if noise remains contact your dealer or tech support (we usually can't fix something that we can't reproduce here).


This might have to do with the XLR side:

http://www.rane.com/note165.html


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22394659
> 
> 
> After much anguish and toil late into the night yesterday, i managed to find the source of the hum.



ah but it might have taken less time if you said "hum" in your last post, which said, "When i mute the D2v sound and place my ears next to my rear speakers(closest to the unit), i hear significant broadband noise from speaker."


There is a big difference between hum and broadband noise, aka hiss, pink noise, white noise, random noise, and waterfall sound.


Public service announcement: Please always be precise when describing a problem or noise. These are all different but often confused (certainly not singling you out dmusoke):


hiss - there will always be some, but should not be audible from the listening area with average-efficiency speakers


hum - almost always caused by a ground loop, can be caused by bad filter cap in power amp (or bad design) but I haven't seen that since the tube days


buzz - most often caused when there is a ground loop with cable TV connection, at least when I was in tech support. Quick easy test - disconnect cable to see if buzz disappears. It just occurred to me that I haven't heard anyone mention it since the switch to digital cable, no idea whether that amounts to anything. Also caused by faulty ground connection in interconnect. There are other causes but they're relatively rare as far as everyday HT is concerned.


snap, crackle, pop, whine - exactly what each name implies


digital noise - can mean anything, please be more specific


When reporting any of the above please always indicate relative loudness, such as how far from speaker one has ot stand to hear it, the speaker model or efficiency if known, and exactly when noise does and doesn't occur. This could save a ton of time in the end.


----------



## Wookii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22395341
> 
> 
> Was the other amp also XLR? If not, then it sounds like a D2v problem. Please try RCA connection if you haven't and if noise remains contact your dealer or tech support (we usually can't fix something that we can't reproduce here).
> 
> This might have to do with the XLR side:
> http://www.rane.com/note165.html



Yes, both tests were via XLR. I will try RCA tonight. Andrew in Tech Support is currently helping me try a few things to troubleshoot the problem.


To clarify on the noise, following your post above, it is a high pitched hum - I may have referred to it as a whine previously because of the high pitch (though I'm not sure at which point a high pitched hum becomes a whine?







) - this is combined with excessive hiss. It's just about audible from 15ft, clearly audible from a few feet.


Thanks for the link to the Rane article - I have been doing a fair bit of reading on the XLR wiring. Can you (or anyone else) confirm whether PIN 1 on the D2v's XLR terminals are wired to signal ground or chassis ground?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22395462
> 
> 
> Yes, both tests were via XLR. I will try RCA tonight. Andrew in Tech Support is currently helping me try a few things to troubleshoot the problem.
> 
> To clarify on the noise, following your post above, it is a high pitched hum - I may have referred to it as a whine previously because of the high pitch (though I'm not sure at which point a high pitched hum becomes a whine?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) - this is combined with excessive hiss. It's just about audible from 15ft, clearly audible from a few feet.
> 
> Thanks for the link to the Rane article - I have been doing a fair bit of reading on the XLR wiring. Can you (or anyone else) confirm whether PIN 1 on the D2v's XLR terminals are wired to signal ground or chassis ground?



Believe it or not, BEFORE i had the problems mentioned a few posts above, i too had a high-pitched noise in ALL of my speakers from the D2v when i power the bass manager(BM) from my racks built-in 12VDC power supply rack-mount module. Regardless of whatever input i used on the D2v, it was always there which was frustrating.


I panicked for a long while until then ended up using a standard 12V AC/DC converter that i plugged into my 120VAC outlet to feed my BM. Powering the BM using the racks built in 12v supply caused high-pitched noise. Powering it using a standard 12V wall wart eliminated the noise. Why ???? Really don't know but it worked.


- David


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ That's a perfect example of why it's important to keep an open mind, treating each case as its own and not relying entirely on previous cases to try and match symptoms with causes. Tech support makes seemingly unusual reqests at times like temporarily bypassing any kind of power conditioning and connecting power cords straight into the wall. Along with braking the system down to a basic one these are just inital steps which can lead to any number of findings. The rack itself can be the cause of a ground loop, so sometimes equipment has to be pulled right out, not just interconnects.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22395462
> 
> 
> Can you (or anyone else) confirm whether PIN 1 on the D2v's XLR terminals are wired to signal ground or chassis ground?



It's also about what's shielded in addition to what the shield is connected to, and our equipment meets Neil Muncy's good practice recommendations. The XLR socket's construction plays into it too.


By swapping in RCA as the first step I just wanted to see whether the noise was XLR-related for any reason before further investigation.


----------



## Wookii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22398170
> 
> 
> It's also about what's shielded in addition to what the shield is connected to, and our equipment meets Neil Muncy's good practice recommendations. The XLR socket's construction plays into it too.
> 
> By swapping in RCA as the first step I just wanted to see whether the noise was XLR-related for any reason before further investigation.



I tested again last night Nick, and basically unplugged everything both from the back of the D2v, and unplugged all equipment from each other and from the mains. Then I just plugged the D2v and one amp directly into the wall socket and tested firstly with and XLR cable and then an RCA cable. In both cases the noise was present, and was alternating between a constant high(ish) pitched hum/whine, and a warbling/variable pitched sound, every couple of minutes.


When I went back to the rear of the rack, and turn off the amp again, I could hear the exact same sound coming from inside the D2v itself - but with a more high pitched electrical/static type sound (I hadn't hear this before with all the other equipment on). This sound also changed from a constant pitch tone to a warbling tone. I switched the amp back on and checked the speaker, and the sound it emitted (from constant to warble) changed at the same point the sound changed that was coming from the D2v.


I switched everything else off and unplugged it, and just kept the D2v on and the noise coming from it continued.


I think therefore my beloved D2v must have developed a fault.


Andrew at Anthem Tech Support has already referred my case to the UK Support team, and Tom Garrett has already contacted me to arrange transport of my D2v to their premises for testing/repair. I guess I get to try out Anthem's legendary customer support!


----------



## Thxtheater

Greetings all!


Is anyone else seeing an increase in the audio volume bug since 3.09 update? (I don't know if this affects D2v users too)


I have a 50v and since I upgraded to 3.09 (I was previously on the 3.0 build) I've noticed a pretty dramatic increase in the number of times I get the audio bug on startup. To summarize, when you startup the Anthem, volume sounds like it's been muted. You need to crank up the volume to -10 for it to be equivalent to somewhere between -55 to -45 normally. Turning the unit off and then on again normally corrects the issue and volume is normal again.


Prior to the 3.09 update, I'd get the bug perhaps twice or three times a month with almost daily use of the 50v. Now, since the update, I'm getting the audio bug as often as 2-3 times/week. It's very strange and I want to know if I'm the only one.


I'm also assuming that there's no further progress on correcting this issue?


Thanks

Theo


----------



## MrKegFlex

I experience the bug occasionaly on my 50v but I don't think the number of occurances has increased since upgrading to 3.09.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrKegFlex*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22398936
> 
> 
> I experience the bug occasionaly on my 50v but I don't think the number of occurances has increased since upgrading to 3.09.



Thanks for that validation. It could just be a cluster on my end and perception that's why I wanted to ask around.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22399019
> 
> 
> Thanks for that validation. It could just be a cluster on my end and perception that's why I wanted to ask around.



This occurred quite a few versions back but haven't had it since.

John


----------



## p.las




Running v 3.09 on my avm50v. Not a single issue after upgrading. Low volume before upgrade had happen maby ten times in a year


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22398919
> 
> 
> Greetings all!
> 
> Is anyone else seeing an increase in the audio volume bug since 3.09 update? (I don't know if this affects D2v users too)
> 
> I have a 50v and since I upgraded to 3.09 (I was previously on the 3.0 build) I've noticed a pretty dramatic increase in the number of times I get the audio bug on startup. To summarize, when you startup the Anthem, volume sounds like it's been muted. You need to crank up the volume to -10 for it to be equivalent to somewhere between -55 to -45 normally. Turning the unit off and then on again normally corrects the issue and volume is normal again.
> 
> Prior to the 3.09 update, I'd get the bug perhaps twice or three times a month with almost daily use of the 50v. Now, since the update, I'm getting the audio bug as often as 2-3 times/week. It's very strange and I want to know if I'm the only one.
> 
> I'm also assuming that there's no further progress on correcting this issue?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Theo



I noticed it also with my 50v, but a couple of weeks ago I had to run ARC again because of some changes I made to my system and I haven't had it happen since. Of course now that I said that, it will probably happen the next time I turn it on.


----------



## Shayne2

I have a 50v and have never had the audio come on low (muted). The audio would just not come on at all and I would need to cycle power or sometimes switch to another source and back would create the handshake. Maybe i just did not hear it since my on volume is set a -35 db but I think not since the sub did not power on with the knock sound? High speed HDMI cables helped but did not correct this problem completely. This was with 2.11 and as of yet have had no issues with 3.09. The wife mentioned "it is nice to turn it on and you get sound beofre you would not alot of the times" I have her monitoring the no audio for me also. Will repost if that changes but to date 3.09 seems to be a improvement.


Regards


----------



## jerbob

Glad you brought this up. I have a 50V and had no low volume or muted volume issues on startup while I was running 2.10. Since I installed 3.09 I have low volume on startup approximately 20% of the time. Not muted volume always low volume.


I figured Anthem would be issuing a software upgrade shortly to correct this problem since it was reported by a couple of other users a while back. Maybe not, since it does not seem to be widespread.


I wonder if any new purchasers of their product are having this problem since new units apparently are being shipped with 3.09 installed? And if they are what happens if you are not aware that you are having a low volume issue and try to run ARC?


Did you try to reinstall 3.09 to see if that would correct the problem? I haven't to this point. I guess i was just happy that my first install seemed to go okay.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22402072
> 
> 
> Glad you brought this up. I have a 50V and had no low volume or muted volume issues on startup while I was running 2.10. Since I installed 3.09 I have low volume on startup approximately 20% of the time. Not muted volume always low volume.
> 
> I figured Anthem would be issuing a software upgrade shortly to correct this problem since it was reported by a couple of other users a while back. Maybe not, since it does not seem to be widespread.
> 
> I wonder if any new purchasers of their product are having this problem since new units apparently are being shipped with 3.09 installed? And if they are what happens if you are not aware that you are having a low volume issue and try to run ARC?
> 
> Did you try to reinstall 3.09 to see if that would correct the problem? I haven't to this point. I guess i was just happy that my first install seemed to go okay.



I just don't understand the root of the problem. Nick... I know you sometimes lurk this forum; is there any light you can shed on this for us????


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ So far very little... we've been getting reports for a while but it's been very difficult to reproduce. About a week or two ago someone mentioned that the problem occurs when powering on to a certain source, one which has an nVidia card. Aside from the problem apparently being AVM 50v-only, this is the first real clue! If you observe the problem please send details to tech support, especially the model number of the source being powered on to and what it's playing if anything. Hopefully we can put enough pieces of the puzzle together that way.


----------



## dmusoke

Hey guys ... need some advice here.


My rack is full on equipment that has many LED lights...red, green blue and amber. Some blink frequently but others are steady. Unfortunately, this makes for a Las Vegas style rack which is very destracting.


Anyone know of some HT light friendly covers?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22403445
> 
> 
> Hey guys ... need some advice here.
> 
> My rack is full on equipment that has many LED lights...red, green blue and amber. Some blink frequently but others are steady. Unfortunately, this makes for a Las Vegas style rack which is very destracting.
> 
> Anyone know of some HT light friendly covers?



I use small squares of tar paper left over from when I built my HT, and they let no light though them. The price is right but if you use the room during the day, you might not like the look. In low lighting they are invisible.

John


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22403268
> 
> 
> ^ So far very little... we've been getting reports for a while but it's been very difficult to reproduce. About a week or two ago someone mentioned that the problem occurs when powering on to a certain source, one which has an nVidia card. Aside from the problem apparently being AVM 50v-only, this is the first real clue! If you observe the problem please send details to tech support, especially the model number of the source being powered on to and what it's playing if anything. Hopefully we can put enough pieces of the puzzle together that way.



Nick, I think (or hope) that several of us would be willing to do that. I don't have any sources that I'm aware of with an NVidia card. If (by memory) I can remember any coincidence, it may be when my AppleTV is the source selected. I'll certainly have to pay more attention to that, however.


The one thing I can tell you is that in my case I have certain sources powered on all the time and connected via HDMI. For example, my Cable Box (Scientific Atlanta 4500HD) and AppleTV and Roku are all always connected and in sleep mode or still on.


Next time it happens, I'll make a note of the source that is selected and its power state. It's quite odd that this is an AVM50v-specific problem if the same HDMI board is being used between the 50v and D2v.


OK, that gives me some additional info to look into and take note of.


Thanks!

Theo


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22403268
> 
> 
> ^ So far very little... we've been getting reports for a while but it's been very difficult to reproduce. About a week or two ago someone mentioned that the problem occurs when powering on to a certain source, one which has an nVidia card. Aside from the problem apparently being AVM 50v-only, this is the first real clue! If you observe the problem please send details to tech support, especially the model number of the source being powered on to and what it's playing if anything. Hopefully we can put enough pieces of the puzzle together that way.



Most equipment manufacturers allow you to turn off or dim the equipment displays.

You will have to check the user manual for each piece of gear.

The alternative is a black marker to sufficiently color over the led sufficiently to dim or extinguish the light


----------



## obie_fl

Here's a solution for bright LEDs.


----------



## Shayne2

Hi


Just to let you know I to got the low volume issue today when i turn on the receiver to hdmi, ati card, computer and hdmi audio from foobar. Power off and on and audio normal.


Regards


----------



## dkojevnikov

I have ASrock mini PC (Vision 3D series) which I am using as a media server with XBMC. It has NVIDIA GeForce GT425M video card. I have a lot of low volume issues when I power up the system in the following sequence: TV -> pause -> AVM-50V -> pause -> PC. I changed it to power up in different sequence: TV -> pause -> PC -> longer_pause -> AVM-50V and I have much less issues with low volume bug. I cannot test it right now as I have my AVM-50V with Anthem for 3D upgrade (it takes quite a time, already more than 9 days) but it looks like if AVM-50V is powered on and it "sees" the entire process of starting of my computer (starting with BIOS splash screen probably in low resolution mode, them Windows splash screen at 720p, then actually a Windows desktop at full resolution 1080p), there is a good chance to get a low volume bug. When computer is booting, it changes through many video modes so maybe at some point something is going wrong with HDCP between Anthem and PC. If computer is started first, takes some time to boot and only after that AVM50-V is powered on, there is no low volume bug (or it is happening much less frequently).


Rebooting computer does not always restore the sound level, rebooting AVM-50V does in all cases.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22403755
> 
> 
> Most equipment manufacturers allow you to turn off or dim the equipment displays.
> 
> You will have to check the user manual for each piece of gear.
> 
> The alternative is a black marker to sufficiently color over the led sufficiently to dim or extinguish the light





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22404132
> 
> 
> Here's a solution for bright LEDs.



Yup ...thanks guys. Already placed order for LightDims. I've already turned off the D2v display along with the Oppo display. Same thing the power conditioners in my rack. but the wireless routers, cable modems, fans are bright and blinking away like there's no tomorrow.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22404709
> 
> 
> Yup ...thanks guys. Already placed order for LightDims. I've already turned off the D2v display along with the Oppo display. Same thing the power conditioners in my rack. but the wireless routers, cable modems, fans are bright and blinking away like there's no tomorrow.


That's why I put my rack in a separate closet.


----------



## bohai

Zone 2 Questions


I have setup as Zone2: Copy Always, yet not getting any sound from any source. I have analog connections from CD player, HDMI and Optical from DTV and BD DVD. I make sure power is on for Main and Zone 2. I select the source in Path for same as what Main is set to, yet no sound. Any suggestions? Audio out for Zone 2 is going to a Knoll Amp for distribution thru house.


Thanks


----------



## Shayne2

Are you getting sound out to the main speakers? Or is it you have no speakers as main?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22404882
> 
> 
> Zone 2 Questions
> 
> 
> I have setup as Zone2: Copy Always, yet not getting any sound from any source. I have analog connections from CD player, HDMI and Optical from DTV and BD DVD. I make sure power is on for Main and Zone 2. I select the source in Path for same as what Main is set to, yet no sound. Any suggestions? Audio out for Zone 2 is going to a Knoll Amp for distribution thru house.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Test using the FM/AM Tuner as your Source, as that eliminates any possibly screw ups on the Source side.


Double check that you have the Audio for Zone 2 connected to the correct pair of Output jacks on the D2v.


Make sure your Amp for Zone 2 is actually live. If it comes out of standby using a Trigger or volume sensing, change it to always be live for testing.


Make sure you are using the correct input jacks for audio on the Amp, and that those input jacks are selected for input on the Amp.


At the bottom of Setup > Source Setup, below the list of Sources, set ZONE2 COPY to ALWAYS.


Make your Source selection using the Main path.


When audio should be playing, select Zone 2 using the buttons at the top of the remote, and then check the Volume setting. Zone 2 has a separate Volume from Main. (To control the Power ON volume for Zone 2, or to set a fixed volume for Zone 2 (because you have separate volume control elsewhere) see Section 3.10 in the Manual.)

--Bob


----------



## fuzzybk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38400#post_22398919
> 
> 
> Greetings all!
> 
> Is anyone else seeing an increase in the audio volume bug since 3.09 update? (I don't know if this affects D2v users too)
> 
> I have a 50v and since I upgraded to 3.09 (I was previously on the 3.0 build) I've noticed a pretty dramatic increase in the number of times I get the audio bug on startup. To summarize, when you startup the Anthem, volume sounds like it's been muted. You need to crank up the volume to -10 for it to be equivalent to somewhere between -55 to -45 normally. Turning the unit off and then on again normally corrects the issue and volume is normal again.
> 
> Prior to the 3.09 update, I'd get the bug perhaps twice or three times a month with almost daily use of the 50v. Now, since the update, I'm getting the audio bug as often as 2-3 times/week. It's very strange and I want to know if I'm the only one.
> 
> I'm also assuming that there's no further progress on correcting this issue?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Theo



I get this bug occasionally as well on my AVM 50v since moving to 3.09. It does seem to happen more often with 3.09 compared to my older firmware.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22406342
> 
> 
> I get this bug occasionally as well on my AVM 50v since moving to 3.09. It does seem to happen more often with 3.09 compared to my older firmware.



All AVM50v owners who have experienced the audio bug:


I'd like to get us all together to try and figure this issue out and get [email protected] some data to help them out. My unit was sent up to Canada some time ago and came back clean. So, there's some combination somewhere that must be causing this issue on some units and not others.


I'm willing to take the lead and try and marshall us all together to get this bug squashed. I'd appreciate it if Nick, you could provide us with a list of questions you'd like us to document for you.


I'm thinking that those of us having experienced the problem should write down.


1) Our software rev

2) Whether or not we have 3D upgrade

3) Peripherals connected to the AVM50v

4) Which HDMI ports those peripherals are connected to

5) Whether or not we power them on or off when the AVM50v is turned on

6) If we are triggering any external amps or manually turning them on

7) Anything else???


Then, when we experience the issue, we should carefully note some diagnostic data like:


1) Identify which HDMI port you were switched to.

2) Whether you initiated power via remote or the main power button or by depressing one of the source buttons.


Thoughts?


Thanks

Theo


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Theo, your efforts are appreciated and every little bit helps but I also ask everyone to e-mail your findings to tech support, so we have a means of contacting each person directly if need be as we close in on this elusive problem. Down the road we might need more info, or there might be software with one little change in it, targeting one thing, for any one person to try. I'm just passing through here with deep interest, doing what I can when I can but it's tech support that's on the full time front line, kicking issues upstairs as patterns become apparent. For now the info should include:


1. Software version, and please use the latest.


2. Source model number. Lately it seems that a video card or media player is (almost?) always involved.


3. Whether the source is on and if so, the audio and video formats it's playing while the AVM 50v is booting up.


4. HDMI input number. (Has this ever happened with non-HDMI input?)


5. Whether it's the AVM 50v 3D version.


6. Front panel power button or remote? You never know!


Thanks!


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22412095
> 
> 
> Theo, your efforts are appreciated and every little bit helps but I also ask everyone to e-mail your findings to tech support, so we have a means of contacting each person directly if need be as we close in on this elusive problem. Down the road we might need more info, or there might be software with one little change in it, targeting one thing, for any one person to try. I'm just passing through here with deep interest, doing what I can when I can but it's tech support that's on the full time front line, kicking issues upstairs as patterns become apparent. For now the info should include:
> 
> 1. Software version, and please use the latest.
> 
> 2. Source model number. Lately it seems that a video card or media player is (almost?) always involved.
> 
> 3. Whether the source is on and if so, the audio and video formats it's playing while the AVM 50v is booting up.
> 
> 4. HDMI input number. (Has this ever happened with non-HDMI input?)
> 
> 5. Whether it's the AVM 50v 3D version.
> 
> 6. Front panel power button or remote? You never know!
> 
> Thanks!



Nick,


So I'm clear and for everyone else, do you want us to email support and post here too? I know in my case I do have both an AppleTV and Roku connected and they are indeed on all the time except for sleep mode. I'd like to see if my setup parallels anyone else's.


Whatever you need me or us to do let's do it and nail this out. The Anthem products are just too good to have something like this detract from them and your support efforts are likewise always appreciated and we should do whatever we can to help you!!


I just got my 3D board. Haven't installed it yet, but thanks for keeping the platform stable and upgradable for several generations.


Theo


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkojevnikov*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22404281
> 
> 
> I have ASrock mini PC (Vision 3D series) which I am using as a media server with XBMC. It has NVIDIA GeForce GT425M video card. I have a lot of low volume issues when I power up the system in the following sequence: TV -> pause -> AVM-50V -> pause -> PC. I changed it to power up in different sequence: TV -> pause -> PC -> longer_pause -> AVM-50V and I have much less issues with low volume bug. I cannot test it right now as I have my AVM-50V with Anthem for 3D upgrade (it takes quite a time, already more than 9 days) but it looks like if AVM-50V is powered on and it "sees" the entire process of starting of my computer (starting with BIOS splash screen probably in low resolution mode, them Windows splash screen at 720p, then actually a Windows desktop at full resolution 1080p), there is a good chance to get a low volume bug. When computer is booting, it changes through many video modes so maybe at some point something is going wrong with HDCP between Anthem and PC. If computer is started first, takes some time to boot and only after that AVM50-V is powered on, there is no low volume bug (or it is happening much less frequently).
> 
> Rebooting computer does not always restore the sound level, rebooting AVM-50V does in all cases.



My pc is always on and when I turn on or switch the 50v to it then it just connects to my second monitor, hdmi out. This effectively take the pc out of the equation. To date I have had this low volume twice, I liked the no volume of 2.11 better than the low volume of 3.09 since my wife can not crank up the no volume and would recycle, will need to cap the volume now I think. Rebooting pc will not help it is a 50v issue and recycling usually corrects.


Regards


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22412265
> 
> 
> do you want us to email support and post here too?



Whenever anything needs Anthem's attention, please communicate all relevant info directly to the support department or authorized dealer, including for each case of the low volume bug. Those are the usual channels, and for best results it should be done by each person experiencing an issue, regardless of how many others reported it online.


If you're counting on the only Anthem employee who reads AVS posts to notice something every time then forward it, well, please don't because that hardly has a chance of becoming a solution. There's too much to filter through to find what's needed, and everything that's needed is almost never there. I'm here just like everyone else - for the love of it when time permits, not in any official capacity.


Thanks


----------



## dmusoke

The D2v/50v has a ground screw in the back. Has anyone ever needed to tie/connect it to earth ground from the wall socket? Why is it there for? Shielding, safety? Why didn't Anthem gives us a 3-prong power cord to ground the chassis?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ Certain test equipment requires a chassis ground connection. It can also be used in rare cases where ground hum problems are fixable by connecting one chassis to another.


Funny that the prong count question came up twice today... I answered it here:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1429874/why-only-2-prong 


That info is in the faq on anthemav.com (which used to have all 50 Q/As in one page) and the Statement M1 page.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22414265
> 
> 
> The D2v/50v has a ground screw in the back. Has anyone ever needed to tie/connect it to earth ground from the wall socket? Why is it there for? Shielding, safety? Why didn't Anthem gives us a 3-prong power cord to ground the chassis?



The ground screw is typically used to connect to the phono cartridge pre-amp used with a regular record player, as the very low voltages in use make such connections quite susceptible to ground differences.


The D2v is tied to ground through it's polarized 2-prong plug. The 3rd-prong in 3-prong plugs is a safety measure for devices that might fail in such a way that wall power (or even higher voltages) could be communicated to the chassis. Generally it is better, when possible, to design devices so that they can't fail that way.


ETA: In addition, adding a 3rd prong makes it MORE likely the device will become part of the signal path by which ground loop interference finds its way back to ground -- thus allowing ground loop current to flow, which is not a good thing.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Thanks Nick and Bob .... I really thought the ground/earth prong was also used as an RFI/EMI shield for any electrical component so that's why i was concerned the D2v might not be shielded for noise if the ground screw wasn't connected to earth. In my rack, i believe the radiated 60Hz from component power cables will be one of the greatest sources of noise so i hope the D2v cover si grounded somehow.


BTW, i connected a temperature sensor with small magnetic clamps onto the D2v. I found out that the D2v chassis isn't magnetic hence it got me concerned that it wasn't metallic hence can't be used as an RFI/EMI shield. What material is the chassis made of? Does it mean it can't be used as an effective shield?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ I'll start with a question - which problem are you trying to fix? A few posts back you isolated a ground loop problem so is hum still an issue?


The bottom part of the chassis is mild steel and the top is aluminum on the D2v and mild steel on the AVM 50v. The difference in the cover material is why the AVM 50v's looks different and weighs more, and part of why it costs less. This has no effect on performance though - EMI/RFI emissions are covered by various regulations. When using equipment that meets regulations, potential problems are handled by not having an over-polluted environment in the first place.


Side topic: This is how shielded power cords come into play. In audio circles it's often thought that they're for blocking noise from getting in when in fact it's the opposite. With certain things like industrial strength computing equipment, power cords can be RFI-radiating antennas unless they're shielded, and this is a potential issue in densely populated server rooms.


There's no need to worry about this stuff, I'm only saying it as information because trying to over-analyze a problem is bound to stall finding the right solution. Once again, the best places to start when a ground loop or interference problem is suspected are with observations -- not hypotheses -- and breaking the system down to basics until the problem is isolated (elimination does not apply to troubleshooting HDMI due to 2-way communication.)


As for sources of HF pollution, at home they might not be what you think unless maybe you live a quarter mile from a transmitter or are trying to play electric guitar through a defective cable. Here's a blast from the past, an excellent article by Dr. David Rich which indicates why some power amps and tweeters were freaking out in the early days of SACD:

http://www.stereophile.com/features/374/index.html


----------



## obie_fl

Maybe I missed it but was pricing ever released on the 3D upgrade board?


Don't shoot me for asking but I assume there is no upgrade path from an original D2 to 3D capability.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22415049
> 
> 
> ^ I'll start with a question - which problem are you trying to fix? A few posts back you isolated a ground loop problem so is hum still an issue?
> 
> The bottom part of the chassis is mild steel and the top is aluminum on the D2v and mild steel on the AVM 50v. The difference in the cover material is why the AVM 50v's looks different and weighs more, and part of why it costs less. This has no effect on performance though - EMI/RFI emissions are covered by various regulations. When using equipment that meets regulations, potential problems are handled by not having an over-polluted environment in the first place.
> 
> Side topic: This is how shielded power cords come into play. In audio circles it's often thought that they're for blocking noise from getting in when in fact it's the opposite. With certain things like industrial strength computing equipment, power cords can be RFI-radiating antennas unless they're shielded, and this is a potential issue in densely populated server rooms.
> 
> There's no need to worry about this stuff, I'm only saying it as information because trying to over-analyze a problem is bound to stall finding the right solution. Once again, the best places to start when a ground loop or interference problem is suspected are with observations -- not hypotheses -- and breaking the system down to basics until the problem is isolated (elimination does not apply to troubleshooting HDMI due to 2-way communication.)
> 
> As for sources of HF pollution, at home they might not be what you think unless maybe you live a quarter mile from a transmitter or are trying to play electric guitar through a defective cable. Here's a blast from the past, an excellent article by Dr. David Rich which indicates why some power amps and tweeters were freaking out in the early days of SACD:
> http://www.stereophile.com/features/374/index.html



Hum is no longer an issue anymore. I was curious about how effective the cover was to shield for EMI/FRI.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ You're far from the first to wonder about "contamination" including when analog and digital or audio and video circuits, as well as switching power supplies are present under the same roof, but there's no need to worry. Test equipment connected to the output jack, the same place you connect your amp, doesn't show any video frequencies etc in the noise spectrum. Our lab also has a radio room for testing designs in the presence of RF sources.


I don't know how to quantify the chassis' shielding action to answer your question but the top and bottom have unpainted areas on the inside so the box has electrical continuity guarding against interference including static discharges from the user's finger when touching a metal button on the front panel (ICs can be scrambled especially in dry weather if this isn't addressed).


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22417113
> 
> 
> Maybe I missed it but was pricing ever released on the 3D upgrade board? Don't shoot me for asking but I assume there is no upgrade path from an original D2 to 3D capability.



Sorry, the 3D upgrade applies to "v" units only and we're still working out how the earlier ones (manufactured through 2009, serial numbers preceding 142626) made with the then-current HDMI chips on the main video board will be handled. The likely outcome is that this board will have to be swapped as well as the daughter board. Prices for both versions of the upgrade TBD after we're done with the free upgrades for units ordered by dealers in US/Canada on or after July 15, 2010.


----------



## bohai

*Surround Speaker Setup*


I have a full spectrum of Paradigm Speakers, but my surrounds(5.1 system) are Millenia ADP's and are considered tri-pole. For setting up the surrounds, the options are Direct or Di-Pole. Which should I go with or is there some additional setup somewhere I could use.


Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22418966
> 
> *Surround Speaker Setup*
> 
> I have a full spectrum of Paradigm Speakers, but my surrounds(5.1 system) are Millenia ADP's and are considered tri-pole. For setting up the surrounds, the options are Direct or Di-Pole. Which should I go with or is there some additional setup somewhere I could use.
> 
> Thanks



I believe Dipole should be selected.

John


----------



## Abbizle

Hi All,


Long time lurker, first time poster










I am but a meager enthusiast from the UK and after years of research and money saving have slowly put together my HT system, which consists of the following:


Anthem D2V

Halcro MC50

Paradigm Reference Signature S8, C3, ADP, SUB 1

Stewart Filmscreen Firehawk G3 Electric tab tensioned (110")

PS3

HTPC


Finally I managed to import all my Home Theater equipment from USA and prepared my HT room (16ft x 10ft) by covering the wood floor with underlay and carpet. Thought I'd test out the equipment before I put up the screen and i got the same hiss, crackle and sometimes pop as mentioned on here.


The only thing I can think of is I am using a normal step down transformer for the screen and the D2V (Halcro is multivoltage), that might be causing the issue. To say the least I was shocked and disappointed that such expensive equipment would have this issue. At first I thought my Halcro was messed up, but then luckily I came across the same problem on this thread that dmusoke has been having.


At the moment the equipment is out of the room as I had to lay down the carpet and put up the screen. Will have the equipment back in tonight or tomorrow. But in preparation of the issues at hand, was hoping the guys that were getting the hum/hiss/static pops can let me know exactly step by step what they did to fix the issue.


Appreciate the help.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22418354
> 
> 
> Sorry, the 3D upgrade applies to "v" units only and we're still working out how the earlier ones (manufactured through 2009, serial numbers preceding 142626) made with the then-current HDMI chips on the main video board will be handled. The likely outcome is that this board will have to be swapped as well as the daughter board. Prices for both versions of the upgrade TBD after we're done with the *free upgrades for units ordered by dealers in US/Canada on or after July 15, 2010.*



Nick,


My apologies, but I have to ask why the differentiation (I don't like to use the word 'discrimination') between US users and overseas users?


Ben


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22419564
> 
> 
> Nick,
> 
> My apologies, but I have to ask why the differentiation (I don't like to use the word 'discrimination') between US users and overseas users?
> 
> Ben



That's not a fair question for Nick - as he says over and over he comes here on his own time as his own man and just happens to work at Anthem.


I think the question is best directed at customer service........


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22418354
> 
> 
> Sorry, the 3D upgrade applies to "v" units only and we're still working out how the earlier ones (manufactured through 2009, serial numbers preceding 142626) made with the then-current HDMI chips on the main video board will be handled. The likely outcome is that this board will have to be swapped as well as the daughter board. Prices for both versions of the upgrade TBD after we're done with the free upgrades for units ordered by dealers in US/Canada on or after July 15, 2010.



Nick:


My D2v was purchased Jan 2011 so i believe it qualifies for the 3D upgrade but my numerous emails to the dealer have been unanswered. What does one have to do get the free upgrade?


- David


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ Good chance of it not needing a processor board swap but the serial number would confirm.


When e-mailing the dealer goes unanswered (could be for many reasons), try calling and if that still doesn't work contact support by whichever means and we'll call the dealer or local rep. Note that we're still on July-December 2010 unit upgrades so yours could be on either side of the fence. 2011 is next and dealers will get a memo when the time comes.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22419564
> 
> 
> why the differentiation (I don't like to use the word 'discrimination') between US users and overseas users?
> 
> Ben



You just used it!


The factory does marketing and support only for Canada/US while internationally they are in the hands of the local importer. There's nothing uncommon about this. Importers have to factor services they provide into pricing, which they (not the factory) determine according to their markets. Depending on the country, importation costs - duty, VAT, air shipments, customs brokerage, environmental fees etc often total 40% or more of the goods' value, even when the unit is a warranty replacement. There can be no free lunch in that case! As for service parts, the costs to bring them in can easily be many times the value of the part alone, and again this includes no-charge or warranty parts. Although in these cases some of the levies are recoverable, bureaucracy often makes it impractical.


Spider, thanks for the support and understanding that the messenger may unwillingly be perceived as the enemy.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22421081
> 
> 
> ^ Good chance of it not needing a processor board swap but the serial number would confirm.
> 
> When e-mailing the dealer goes unanswered (could be for many reasons), try calling and if that still doesn't work contact support by whichever means and we'll call the dealer or local rep. Note that we're still on July-December 2010 unit upgrades so yours could be on either side of the fence. 2011 is next and dealers will get a memo when the time comes.



And by "not needing a processor", you mean it already has 3D board? Can you please explain? Thanks!\


SN sent to you via PM.


----------



## dmusoke

Having a hard time finding an 1/8" mini-plug mono cable to connect the D2v output trigger to my power amps trigger input. Monoprice and RS seem to have stereo cable versions. These wouldn't work, would they? Who else carries these cables?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22421237
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22421081
> 
> 
> ^ Good chance of it not needing a processor board swap but the serial number would confirm.
> 
> When e-mailing the dealer goes unanswered (could be for many reasons), try calling and if that still doesn't work contact support by whichever means and we'll call the dealer or local rep. Note that we're still on July-December 2010 unit upgrades so yours could be on either side of the fence. 2011 is next and dealers will get a memo when the time comes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And by "not needing a processor", you mean it already has 3D board? Can you please explain? Thanks!\
> 
> 
> SN sent to you via PM.
Click to expand...

Some older D2v's need additional hardware swapped out to support the 3D upgrade. He's saying odds are good you don't fall into that category.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22421146
> 
> 
> ............ Spider, thanks for the support and understanding that the messenger may unwillingly be perceived as the enemy.



Nick,


Far from it, I certainly do not perceive you to be an enemy, otherwise I won't have prefaced my question with an apology. I am simply trying to understand the logic of this different treatment for local and overseas users. Just being disappointed, that's all because we overseas users willingly pay a high price to support Anthem. I am sure I am not alone amongst the many overseas users who feel so.


Since you mentioned it in your post, I simply took the opportunity to pose the question to you. I can assure you, there's no ulterior motive involved. I am sorry you took offence at this.


Ben


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ oh no, none of what I said was directed at any one person including yourself. Sorry for the misunderstanding, and certainly no offence taken.


This might sound paranoid but company reps can be very unpopular with people who have demands that can't be met. I've learned to keep my guard on for the possibility of critics who will never own the product ruining the discussion especially when the topic is pricing, warranty, or authorized distribution channels.


That's one difference between posting as an enthusiast and posting as an enthusiast who also happens to be and is known as a manufacturer employee. I don't see anywhere near as many company reps posting on AVS as when I joined, or at least not posting as often, and I fully understand why.


In any case I hope that my previous post answered your question and if you have any further concern please don't hesitate to inquire.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22421243
> 
> 
> Having a hard time finding an 1/8" mini-plug mono cable to connect the D2v output trigger to my power amps trigger input. Monoprice and RS seem to have stereo cable versions. These wouldn't work, would they? Who else carries these cables?



Depends on the amp brand, and mono is the safer bet. Stereo works with our equipment, so if the stereo is the only local choice and costs only a couple of bucks, might as well try it. Don't use the one that says something about phono attenuation on the package (Radio Shack has that among the normal offerings).


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22421237
> 
> 
> And by "not needing a processor", you mean it already has 3D board? Can you please explain? Thanks!\
> 
> SN sent to you via PM.



If the serial number is after 142626 then the video processing board doesn't need to be swapped, only the HDMI daughter board that sits on top (inputs 1-4, output 1). This is the one that does 3D/passthrough.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22421379
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22421243
> 
> 
> Having a hard time finding an 1/8" mini-plug mono cable to connect the D2v output trigger to my power amps trigger input. Monoprice and RS seem to have stereo cable versions. These wouldn't work, would they? Who else carries these cables?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on the amp brand, and mono is the safer bet. Stereo works with our equipment, so if the stereo is the only local choice and costs only a couple of bucks, might as well try it. Don't use the one that says something about phono attenuation on the package (Radio Shack has that among the normal offerings).
Click to expand...


Short length Mono mini-jack cables are readily available at places like Radio Shack where they are used for monaural memo recorders and the like.


Since there's no need for high quality or shielding of such a trigger feed wire, a simple solution if you can't find a ready made cable that's long enough is to buy such a short length mono-to-mono cable and cut it in half. That gives you two pieces each with a mono jack at one end and bare wire at the other. Extend it with any convenient, inexpensive, two conductor wire -- e.g., zip cord if you don't have anything else handy in your collection of unused wires. You can even just use 4 of those little, conical, twist on caps to twist tie connect the two conductors at each end to your extension wire. The cable only carries a static, low current flow, DC 12 volt signal as the Trigger, so you certainly don't need anything fancy for such a trigger wire.


By the way, one common problem with these Trigger connections is that the sockets are stubborn. If if isn't working, double-check and make sure that the mini plug is fully inserted in the socket -- which may take more oomph than you expect.


Another possible problem is that some amps are sensitive to the polarity of the DC 12 volt signal. The specs page at the back of the D2v Manual describes what's on tip and ring for the Trigger outputs on the D2v. Check what your amp needs and if it cares (most take either polarity and thus don't care), and wants the reverse, just swap the two conductors -- which makes those little twist on connector caps even more convenient.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22421302
> 
> 
> I am sure I am not alone amongst the many overseas users who feel so.



Count me in because it goes both ways. The first major purchase I made was a pocket calculator that did things hardly anyone knew were possible before it came out. Having one was in a lot of ways the same as having the latest greatest smart phone today on a student budget. A fellow student had the same model calculator though he brought it from Singapore where it sold for just over half the Canadian price. The concept was nothing new. Things always did cost more here than in US, still now that the two currencies are at par and regardless of the border being only a short drive from here. We also have fewer choices and they often hit the market later.


That's just how it works and the choices are to accept it or not buy anything. I like to think that the glass is half full.


----------



## obie_fl

but but.... Wait a minute Bob are you saying my $600 cryogenic treated trigger cables aren't what gives my amps that greater sense of three-dimensionality, sense of dynamic contrast and coherence? hmmm must be the audiophile fuses I installed at the same time then.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22421620
> 
> 
> but but.... Wait a minute Bob are you saying my $600 cryogenic treated trigger cables aren't what gives my amps that greater sense of three-dimensionality, sense of dynamic contrast and coherence? hmmm must be the audiophile fuses I installed at the same time then.



No, what you are probably hearing is the enhanced resonance and lifting of the veil that comes from emptying your wallet. Nothing screws up sound so much as having a bunch of money (either paper or coins) sitting around unspent. You would have likely achieved the same result by simply sending that cash to me. In fact I have just such a service available for discriminating enthusiasts.


Of course if you REALLY want to hear your system at its best you need to subscribe to my service which delivers audiophile quality air (in discreet, unmarked tanker trucks) to be pumped into your theater on a regular schedule. Forcing your audio to travel to your ears through plain old, everyday, outdoor air (the sort that's been breathed by gosh knows who) is bound to have a deleterious effect.

--Bob (just make the checks out to "CASH") P.


----------



## Wookii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22421146
> 
> 
> You just used it!
> 
> The factory does marketing and support only for Canada/US while internationally they are in the hands of the local importer. There's nothing uncommon about this. Importers have to factor services they provide into pricing, which they (not the factory) determine according to their markets. Depending on the country, importation costs - duty, VAT, air shipments, customs brokerage, environmental fees etc often total 40% or more of the goods' value, even when the unit is a warranty replacement. There can be no free lunch in that case! As for service parts, the costs to bring them in can easily be many times the value of the part alone, and again this includes no-charge or warranty parts. Although in these cases some of the levies are recoverable, bureaucracy often makes it impractical.



I'm sure I'm not the only one to think that is a shocking attitude from a manufacturer!


I'm not having a go at you Nick at all, but if you are relaying Anthem's official policy that is absolutely appalling!


Anthem is more than willing sell into non-domestic markets and make I lot of money doing so, they can't simply wash their hands of support to customers who have invested in Anthem products, simply because they happen to be in a different territory and providing that support is 'impractical'.


Palming off responsibility to the local distributor is weak at best - if Anthem values it's reputation internationally then it should make damn sure it's distribution agreements provide for unified support to customers across territories.


----------



## stanger89

I've got a question Bob/Nick (or anyone else). I'm scheduled to take my 50V into the dealer next week to get the 3D upgrade installed. I see the 3.09 software is official and available, would there be any downside to me installing that myself to save the dealer some time? Usually I'd just go for it but this is "big", though I see in the release notes that it should work fine on a 50V without the upgrade.


I guess probably the most pertinent question is if I do the 3.09 SW upgrade myself, and restore/redo all the setting will installing the board require me to do it again?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ Software must be installed after hardware although you can install the software now as well, save your settings in user memory, and they'll be there after the hardware+software upgrade.


----------



## stanger89

Thanks for the info, seems like I might as well just wait and only have to "restore" my settings once. At least I'm glad I read the notes so I know to write down my VP settings.


----------



## p.las

Hello.

I having a hard time to fnd the right lip sync . Source is bluray ( oppo bdp 83 ) display is a sim2 d80e projektor. At the time i am landing on 15msec . It is better than no lip sync . but still not right . What are you guys doing regards lip sync. I am using a enlighter 4k AT screen , with All tree speakers behind the screen. Maby it's make it easyer to see when thing are not in sync.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It is vital to set lip sync adjustment while playing content of known "correctness". That's because it is VERY common for there to be sync errors inherent in the content in shows and movies -- often varying from scene to scene. There's no practical way to "chase" such stuff, so set your sync so that it is correct for "correct" content, and let the content errors in different titles just do what they do. There are many different reasons why such sync errors find their way into the content. Often it goes back to errors in the original theatrical release. I.e., the sync errors were already there when people saw the film projected in movie theaters.


I recommend the sync charts found on Disney's "WOW World of Wonder" SD-DVD and Blu-ray discs. There's also a good Blu-ray sync chart on "DVE HD Basics", Blu-ray.


If you have access to the Avia Pro, multi-disc SD-DVD set, then there is a chart on their 16:9 charts disc -- Motion > Motion Transitions -- which is also good for use as a sync test.


When checking sync, use the configuration you will use in watching real shows and movies as video processors in displays often introduce different delays when fed different input formats.


The 83 has correct sync at its outputs, and the D2v -- with the default (0) audio delay setting -- also produces correct sync on its outputs when the input is correct to begin with. (That last presumes both audio and video are going through the D2v.)

--Bob


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22421382
> 
> 
> If the serial number is after 142626 then the video processing board doesn't need to be swapped, only the HDMI daughter board that sits on top (inputs 1-4, output 1). This is the one that does 3D/passthrough.



Do you need to quote the exact serial no. or is 146XXX enough to verify date?


Regards



PS explorer 10 has a spell checker .... about x


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22423041
> 
> 
> I'm not having a go at you Nick at all, but if you are relaying Anthem's official policy that is absolutely appalling!



I understand how you feel but you can't lose what you never had. Promotions are hardly ever universal.


International distributors, including ours, carry many brands. If "our" policy was as out of the ordinary as you perceive, no distributor would carry our products. We're not new at this, neither are our distributors, and we're not washing our hands of anything. After all, it's a partnership and things have to be mutually beneficial.


When a distributor needs something, we provide it. Of course this is in the agreement, with corresponding terms and conditions. But as mentioned, someone has to order something before it's shipped. Always. It cannot be imposed, especially mid-term. Even in US/Canada, the 3D kit was unadvertised except to dealers. It was then the dealer's decision whether to offer the future upgrade at no charge to their customers as part of the sale condition, because although domestically the levies naturally do not apply, the dealers still commit themselves to installing the kit when the time comes.


One last time, we cannot ship something that wasn't ordered. Ever. It's no more complicated than that.



A very special request: Trolls may crash the party. It has happened before. Please ignore them 100% to prevent attracting moderator intervention, the last thing this awesome real user thread needs. I realize that some will always try to have their way by making noise on the internet but policies, standard ones, have never changed for such causes. It just doesn't work.


For my part, this is my last avs post for an indefinite period. I've said it many times - I started on the other side of the counter long before joining this industry and understand both sides. Normally, I'd be happy to further discuss things with anyone who has questions, but storm clouds loom again. Bye for now.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38370#post_22389789
> 
> 
> OK guys ...first of all thanks for the feedback you've provided. Very much appreciated. But i have to ask whether you quieted down all other external sources of noise in your theater(AC, fans, lights, fridge etc) before you performed the listening tests, playing some music for while(10 secs or so) before muting the D2v? Forgive my arrogance here but also did you place your ear right next to your speaker with the amplifier(s) on (and not in auto-mute as some amps do)?
> 
> My only sources into the D2v are the DVR, via Optical and HDMI and the Oppo 95 player via HDMI, Stereo XLR and 5.1 MCH analog. The Oppo is off but will test both it and the cable box for possible sources of noise.
> 
> Thanks again guys! Appreciate the feedback
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> *EDIT*:
> 
> Removed all my sources from the D2v and no apparent change in noise levels



I have a noisy one (50v).


----------



## Shayne2

^ my 50v is only really noise when I would like it to be. Else it is perfectly still. This box, with the right drive train, is just something you would want to hug before you go to bed.


regards


----------



## dmusoke

AVfile:


Before you decide its the 50v as the noisy source, do a couple of things first.


1. Make sure your speaker wires are NOT anywhere near any power cables of any sort. Separate thme as far from each other as is practical. Is the noise still there? If not good, problem solved. If noise it still there, then go to step #2 below.


2. Are you connected to your amplifier via RCA or XLR's cables? If RCA, then try XLRs if you amplifier has them. Is the noise still there? If not good, if so or at a reduced level go to step #2.


3. Disconnect ALL outputs of the 50v to your amplifier. Short the inputs of your amplifier using shorting caps or RCA cables if possible, If not possible,fine. Listen to your speakers for the noise with all amp inputs disconnected. Is it still noisy as before? If so, then its your amplifier thats the problem and need to consult your dealer to resolve the problem. If all is quiet, then the amplifier is good and not the source of noise and noise is from the 50v or any other equipment between the 50v and your amplifier (as was my case)! and then go to step 4.


4. Re-connect one input cable at a time into your power amp and listen for the noise you're getting until you find the culprit channel. In my case it was the connection between my D2v subwoofer channel and an external bass manager (AS-EQ1) from SVS that was the noise problem. I added a popular wide bandwidth isolation transformer between the D2v sub output and the bass manager and fed the output of the bass manager to my subwoofers. This eliminated the ground loop noise i was getting and was greatly relieved!


Hope the above helps,


David


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22423202
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info, seems like I might as well just wait and only have to "restore" my settings once. At least I'm glad I read the notes so I know to write down my VP settings.



Are you saying the VP settings are lost during the 3D upgrade? They are not lost during routine firmware upgrade from what I've seen. I've never written them down and don't recall them ever getting lost.

This begs the question do we need to save our CRM & LVSE custom settings and reload them after the upgrade? Getting the perfect gamma curves was a huge chore!


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22414353
> 
> 
> The ground screw is typically used to connect to the phono cartridge pre-amp used with a regular record player, as the very low voltages in use make such connections quite susceptible to ground differences.
> 
> The D2v is tied to ground through it's polarized 2-prong plug. The 3rd-prong in 3-prong plugs is a safety measure for devices that might fail in such a way that wall power (or even higher voltages) could be communicated to the chassis. Generally it is better, when possible, to design devices so that they can't fail that way.
> 
> ETA: In addition, adding a 3rd prong makes it MORE likely the device will become part of the signal path by which ground loop interference finds its way back to ground -- thus allowing ground loop current to flow, which is not a good thing.
> 
> --Bob




My advice is to use double shielded 3-prong power cords regardless. Any shielded 14/3 cable should do, no need to go exotic. Machined connectors as opposed to stamped provide better grip long term which can prevent issues. I know Anthem has their reasoning for a more "basic" setup but Better to be safe than sorry, and it's much more sensible than some of the crazy tweaks people spend money on! I posted my technical explanation when we had this discussion 1 or 2 months ago.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22406342
> 
> 
> I get this bug occasionally as well on my AVM 50v since moving to 3.09. It does seem to happen more often with 3.09 compared to my older firmware.



I reported a rash of occurrences right after installing 3.09 too, but it seems to have settled down. Come to think of it I had a good run when I had settled on 2.14d for the summer so that leads me to believe the act of updating firmware exacerbates the volume bug.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22410968
> 
> 
> All AVM50v owners who have experienced the audio bug:
> 
> I'd like to get us all together to try and figure this issue out and get [email protected] some data to help them out. My unit was sent up to Canada some time ago and came back clean. So, there's some combination somewhere that must be causing this issue on some units and not others.
> 
> I'm willing to take the lead and try and marshall us all together to get this bug squashed. I'd appreciate it if Nick, you could provide us with a list of questions you'd like us to document for you.
> 
> I'm thinking that those of us having experienced the problem should write down.
> 
> 1) Our software rev
> 
> 2) Whether or not we have 3D upgrade
> 
> 3) Peripherals connected to the AVM50v
> 
> 4) Which HDMI ports those peripherals are connected to
> 
> 5) Whether or not we power them on or off when the AVM50v is turned on
> 
> 6) If we are triggering any external amps or manually turning them on
> 
> 7) Anything else???
> 
> Then, when we experience the issue, we should carefully note some diagnostic data like:
> 
> 1) Identify which HDMI port you were switched to.
> 
> 2) Whether you initiated power via remote or the main power button or by depressing one of the source buttons.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Theo



Also report what you've got the muting level set to. Some people are getting no sound at all and I wonder if their muting level is set to full mute?


Mine is set to -20dB and when the bug hits it is about 20 too quiet.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22404132
> 
> 
> Here's a solution for bright LEDs.



Window tint!


Stopped by my local auto specialist and got a scrap they were throwing out. Enough to do 1000 systems










Has anyone noticed the leds in the Anthem statement amps are so bright that light escapes the vents in the top panel and could cast on your projection screen? Can the circuit be modified to dim them with a resistor you think?


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22424063
> 
> 
> Are you saying the VP settings are lost during the 3D upgrade? They are not lost during routine firmware upgrade from what I've seen. I've never written them down and don't recall them ever getting lost.
> 
> This begs the question do we need to save our CRM & LVSE custom settings and reload them after the upgrade? Getting the perfect gamma curves was a huge chore!



Well the release notes for 3.09 say this:


> Quote:
> NOTE: If updating from a version prior to v2.14 beta, the video processor will be reprogrammed. This takes 30-45 minutes and usually resets user settings in the video processor. Make a record of your settings before updating software to this version.



I've still got (IIRC) 2.11 on mine so this would seem to apply. Maybe they're being extra cautious/paranoid with the "usually".


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22421394
> 
> 
> Short length Mono mini-jack cables are readily available at places like Radio Shack where they are used for monaural memo recorders and the like.
> 
> Since there's no need for high quality or shielding of such a trigger feed wire, a simple solution if you can't find a ready made cable that's long enough is to buy such a short length mono-to-mono cable and cut it in half. That gives you two pieces each with a mono jack at one end and bare wire at the other. Extend it with any convenient, inexpensive, two conductor wire -- e.g., zip cord if you don't have anything else handy in your collection of unused wires. You can even just use 4 of those little, conical, twist on caps to twist tie connect the two conductors at each end to your extension wire. The cable only carries a static, low current flow, DC 12 volt signal as the Trigger, so you certainly don't need anything fancy for such a trigger wire.
> 
> By the way, one common problem with these Trigger connections is that the sockets are stubborn. If if isn't working, double-check and make sure that the mini plug is fully inserted in the socket -- which may take more oomph than you expect.
> 
> Another possible problem is that some amps are sensitive to the polarity of the DC 12 volt signal. The specs page at the back of the D2v Manual describes what's on tip and ring for the Trigger outputs on the D2v. Check what your amp needs and if it cares (most take either polarity and thus don't care), and wants the reverse, just swap the two conductors -- which makes those little twist on connector caps even more convenient.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob ... mission accomplished







.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22423850
> 
> 
> AVfile:
> 
> Before you decide its the 50v as the noisy source, do a couple of things first.
> 
> 1. Make sure your speaker wires are NOT anywhere near any power cables of any sort. Separate thme as far from each other as is practical. Is the noise still there? If not good, problem solved. If noise it still there, then go to step #2 below.
> 
> 2. Are you connected to your amplifier via RCA or XLR's cables? If RCA, then try XLRs if you amplifier has them. Is the noise still there? If not good, if so or at a reduced level go to step #2.
> 
> 3. Disconnect ALL outputs of the 50v to your amplifier. Short the inputs of your amplifier using shorting caps or RCA cables if possible, If not possible,fine. Listen to your speakers for the noise with all amp inputs disconnected. Is it still noisy as before? If so, then its your amplifier thats the problem and need to consult your dealer to resolve the problem. If all is quiet, then the amplifier is good and not the source of noise and noise is from the 50v or any other equipment between the 50v and your amplifier (as was my case)! and then go to step 4.
> 
> 4. Re-connect one input cable at a time into your power amp and listen for the noise you're getting until you find the culprit channel. In my case it was the connection between my D2v subwoofer channel and an external bass manager (AS-EQ1) from SVS that was the noise problem. I added a popular wide bandwidth isolation transformer between the D2v sub output and the bass manager and fed the output of the bass manager to my subwoofers. This eliminated the ground loop noise i was getting and was greatly relieved!
> 
> Hope the above helps,
> 
> David



When I first turn on the AVM it is very quiet. Yes the amps are on and they are all balanced. There is only the tiniest hiss with my ear right at the tweeters, very good. Now when I turn on the source (Oppo 83 with no disc) the white noise gets much louder as soon as the HDMI handshake completes (as indicated by both units' displays showing a lock).


----------



## porschetech

I just picked a avm50 this evening. Hopefully this was a decent upgrade from my avm30. Just a couple of questions.


1- I saw through the top vents that it has a red board. Does mean it was upgraded or is that how they all come?

2- Can I add ARC to this pre/pro?

3- I have a pioneer elite pro111fd plasma tv and I have all components connected directly via hdmi. If I ran them all through the avm50, would my picture quality remain the same or would I lose quality?

4- lastly what can I expect to see and/or hear between the 2 pre/pros?


Oops.....nearly forgot. How easy is it to change the silver faceplate to black? (If avail from anthem)


----------



## AVfile

^ AVM-50 or 50v?


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22429595
> 
> 
> ^ AVM-50 or 50v?


AVM50, not the V


----------



## wingnut4772

Is there a setting or anything I have to change prior to being ready for 3D video?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22430194
> 
> 
> AVM50, not the V



The audio would be more of an upgrade if you could find an ARC kit for it.

The video quality thru the AVM-50 should be unchanged, but you will have to take additional steps to configure two video output modes if you want to pass 1080p24 to the TV. You will have to manually select the 24p output mode when playing a 24p source (eg: blu-ray film) and back to 60p for other stuff.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22431268
> 
> 
> Is there a setting or anything I have to change prior to being ready for 3D video?



Save your user settings before getting the 3D upgrade if you don't have it already.


Once you have it, select the passthru video output mode and it will pass 3D.


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22431833
> 
> 
> The audio would be more of an upgrade if you could find an ARC kit for it.
> 
> The video quality thru the AVM-50 should be unchanged, but you will have to take additional steps to configure two video output modes if you want to pass 1080p24 to the TV. You will have to manually select the 24p output mode when playing a 24p source (eg: blu-ray film) and back to 60p for other stuff.



Ok thanks. Do I wait for an ARC kit to show up on eBay or are they still avail from anthem? I didn't get an owners manual with it, so it looks as if I have a lot to download, print out and a loooong read!


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22431837
> 
> 
> Save your user settings before getting the 3D upgrade if you don't have it already.
> 
> Once you have it, select the passthru video output mode and it will pass 3D.



Thanks. I have the 3D unit. So it's only pass through. Got it.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22431995
> 
> 
> Ok thanks. Do I wait for an ARC kit to show up on eBay or are they still avail from anthem? I didn't get an owners manual with it, so it looks as if I have a lot to download, print out and a loooong read!



Since the ARC software needs to be matched to both the individual processor and mic I would only advise getting an ARC kit from Anthem.

Contact their customer service thru their website and ask them if there are still ARC kits available for the AVM 50, and if there is have them write up the software to match your units serial number.


The manuals and firmware upgrades are hidden on the Anthem site under 'discontinued products'. They are hard to find. Anthem customer service should be able to help you find the 'dicontinued product' page. I can't seem to find it on their website.


When I got my ARC kit for my D2 years ago it cost $400 IIRC.

Well worth the cost.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It's not hard to find the discontinued products page. Just do a search (upper right corner of their home page) for "discontinued". You'll get just one results link, and that's what you want:

http://anthemav.com/discontinued-products 


It's not obvious to me why anyone would sell the ARC Upgrade Kit for the AVM 50 as a separate item instead of as part of an AVM 50. But I suppose people do odd things. Last we heard here, Anthem was out of stock of these kits and was not expecting to make more. The ARC Upgrade Kit for the AVM 50 consists of the normal ARC kit (calibrated mic, mic stand, cable, and software) plus an audio processing DSP board that gets put into the AVM 50 replacing the original board. The unit's firmware also needs to be re-installed afterwards to initialize the new hardware.


Meanwhile the ARC software gets installed on your Windows PC. As part of that install you need two files: The ARC license and the individual calibration file for your ARC mic. It is possible for Anthem tech support to create and email to you the 2 files you need, but I don't know what their policy is regarding moving ARC from one processor to another processor. Originally there was a concern that people would buy one ARC kit and use it on multiple processors -- thus the license was tied to the serial number of the processor -- but I don't think Anthem enforces that anymore since these days all of their products come bundled with ARC.

--Bob


----------



## porschetech

i did call anthem and gave them the serial number. they said that starting with 141*** it should have it. only way to find out is when i power it up, it should say ARC


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22433070
> 
> 
> i did call anthem and gave them the serial number. they said that starting with 141*** it should have it. only way to find out is when i power it up, it should say ARC



Yes, if it has the V1.33 firmware installed, and has the replacement board installed, then it will say ARC as part of the model description when it powers up.


Now, to actually USE ARC you also need the Windows PC program (that's easy -- just download from Anthem and install) and the calibrated ARC mic, and the two ARC licensing/calibration files.


If you bought an AVM 50/ARC from someone, they should have provided the ARC mic, mic stand, and mic cable along with that purchase. It would make no sense not to sell them together.


But if you have to, I suppose you can buy a new mic kit from Anthem. I don't know how they'd price that.

--Bob


----------



## brente




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22418354
> 
> 
> Sorry, the 3D upgrade applies to "v" units only and we're still working out how the earlier ones (manufactured through 2009, serial numbers preceding 142626) made with the then-current HDMI chips on the main video board will be handled. The likely outcome is that this board will have to be swapped as well as the daughter board. Prices for both versions of the upgrade TBD after we're done with the free upgrades for units ordered by dealers in US/Canada on or after July 15, 2010.



Nick - has any solution been proposed for units that have a serial number after 142626, but were manufactured before July 2010? It seems like there are a number of units in that range (mine included) that are in limbo...


----------



## porschetech

yes the box says 1.33 with a red board (anthem did say the later models had the updated red board). i think my local anthem dealer did say that will try and get a kit for me, as they may have one laying around


----------



## bluemark81

I just updated my software on my D2v to 3.09 and I'm noticing the surround mode is no longer showing up on my display. It always did before. Now, I only get 5.1, but it no longer shows PLIIx, EX, THX etc. The blue light for THX will come on, but other than that, there is no indication on the display what the surround mode is. So, I don't know if this means these modes are no longer working, or if it is something wrong with my display or something with the new update. Any clues? Thanks


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brente*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22433492
> 
> 
> Nick - has any solution been proposed for units that have a serial number after 142626, but were manufactured before July 2010? It seems like there are a number of units in that range (mine included) that are in limbo...



Brente ...Nick left the forum 'for good' a couple days ago. Someone here on AVS pissed him off bad accusing him/Anthem of underhanded business practices. A shame indeed as he was valuable to this forum and appeared on his own time and not as a rep for Anthem. Its best you direct your questions directly to Anthem tech support from now on.


----------



## thestewman

Brente


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brente*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22433492
> 
> 
> Nick - has any solution been proposed for units that have a serial number after 142626, but were manufactured before July 2010? It seems like there are a number of units in that range (mine included) that are in limbo...



Maybe you missed this post from Nick. Contact Anthem customer service for an answer to your question



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38460#post_22423414
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A very special request: Trolls may crash the party. It has happened before. Please ignore them 100% to prevent attracting moderator intervention, the last thing this awesome real user thread needs. I realize that some will always try to have their way by making noise on the internet but policies, standard ones, have never changed for such causes. It just doesn't work.
> 
> For my part, this is my last avs post for an indefinite period. I've said it many times - I started on the other side of the counter long before joining this industry and understand both sides. Normally, I'd be happy to further discuss things with anyone who has questions, but storm clouds loom again. Bye for now.


----------



## brente




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22434647
> 
> 
> Brente ...Nick left the forum 'for good' a couple days ago. Someone here on AVS pissed him off bad accusing him/Anthem of underhanded business practices. A shame indeed as he was valuable to this forum and appeared on his own time and not as a rep for Anthem. Its best you direct your questions directly to Anthem tech support from now on.



Thx for the heads up - I did miss his post. Sorry to hear...


----------



## Wookii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22434647
> 
> 
> Brente ...Nick left the forum 'for good' a couple days ago. Someone here on AVS pissed him off bad accusing him/Anthem of underhanded business practices. A shame indeed as he was valuable to this forum and appeared on his own time and not as a rep for Anthem. Its best you direct your questions directly to Anthem tech support from now on.



I feel the need to clarify a few points David if I may. I have come back to this thread after a few days away, and was shocked and disappointed to see Nick's reply. As he posted in response to myself, I can only assume that I am the 'someone' who pissed him off? That was certainly not my intention, and my post was in no way directed at Nick as I stated at the opening of it - indeed Nick has helped me out on a number of occasions on this thread so he resignation from it is that last thing I would want, so I am sorry if he felt that way as a result of it.


Nor am I in any way a 'Troll' as Nick's post seems to suggest (which in itself is a little offensive when I am raising a genuine concern as a worried customer). Quite the opposite, I am a happy Anthem D2v owner and have been so for a year and a half, which has also led me on to purchase other products from the Anthem/Paradigm stable.


Rather my post was directed at Anthem's policy on the availability of current and future upgrades to overseas customers. Again to clarify, I in no way suggested Anthem had "underhanded business practices". My reaction (although a little strong in retrospect, but borne out of genuine concern) was as a keen and enthusiastic Anthem owner who has invested considerable hard earned cash in Anthem products, being deeply concerned to be informed that should Anthem release a future upgrade for the D2v, and the local importer/distributor chooses not to support it, we as overseas customers could be left without any means to obtain the upgrade, and Anthem would not be available to provide that support independently simply because we live in a different country.


I am sure any user would share the same concerns when they have bought into a high end product with future upgrades being released. Perhaps this is not the case, and perhaps Anthem may ship upgraded parts to unsupported users in other countries, or allow a return to base in Canada for upgrades that couldn't be user installed, but this didn't appear to be the case from Nick's clarification of the policy.


As it turns out, we are very fortunate in the UK in having the support of Anthem AVS who provide the same level of customer care that Anthem themselves extend to their US and Canadian customers - however others may not be so fortunate.


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gdavies09031977*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22435269
> 
> 
> I feel the need to clarify a few points David if I may. I have come back to this thread after a few days away, and was shocked and disappointed to see Nick's reply. As he posted in response to myself, I can only assume that I am the 'someone' who pissed him off? That was certainly not my intention, and my post was in no way directed at Nick as I stated at the opening of it - indeed Nick has helped me out on a number of occasions on this thread so he resignation from it is that last thing I would want, so I am sorry if he felt that way as a result of it.
> 
> Nor am I in any way a 'Troll' as Nick's post seems to suggest (which in itself is a little offensive when I am raising a genuine concern as a worried customer). Quite the opposite, I am a happy Anthem D2v owner and have been so for a year and a half, which has also led me on to purchase other products from the Anthem/Paradigm stable.
> 
> Rather my post was directed at Anthem's policy on the availability of current and future upgrades to overseas customers. Again to clarify, I in no way suggested Anthem had "underhanded business practices". My reaction (although a little strong in retrospect, but borne out of genuine concern) was as a keen and enthusiastic Anthem owner who has invested considerable hard earned cash in Anthem products, being deeply concerned to be informed that should Anthem release a future upgrade for the D2v, and the local importer/distributor chooses not to support it, we as overseas customers could be left without any means to obtain the upgrade, and Anthem would not be available to provide that support independently simply because we live in a different country.
> 
> I am sure any user would share the same concerns when they have bought into a high end product with future upgrades being released. Perhaps this is not the case, and perhaps Anthem may ship upgraded parts to unsupported users in other countries, or allow a return to base in Canada for upgrades that couldn't be user installed, but this didn't appear to be the case from Nick's clarification of the policy.
> 
> As it turns out, we are very fortunate in the UK in having the support of Anthem AVS who provide the same level of customer care that Anthem themselves extend to their US and Canadian customers - however others may not be so fortunate.



I thought your post was perfectly reasonable and I too was astounded by the reaction.

I also live in the UK and my dealer has informed me that the upgrade will cost me £500 plus £100 for "fitting and testing" and there is no option for me to install, despite the fact that I knew (and know) far more about the product, technology and set-up than they (as an official and authorised Anthem dealer). I am therefore not a happy customer but for sure Anthem UK and my dealer do not seem to care one whit.


Regards


Russ


----------



## Wookii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RussVC*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22435278
> 
> 
> I thought your post was perfectly reasonable and I too was astounded by the reaction.
> 
> I also live in the UK and my dealer has informed me that the upgrade will cost me £500 plus £100 for "fitting and testing" and there is no option for me to install, despite the fact that I knew (and know) far more about the product, technology and set-up than they (as an official and authorised Anthem dealer). I am therefore not a happy customer but for sure Anthem UK and my dealer do not seem to care one whit.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Russ



To be honest Russ, my personal experience with Anthem AVS, the UK distributor has been very good, they have given me excellent service.


My issue also wasn't even whether any upgrade, current or future, was free or paid for - I don't specifically object to paying for an upgrade to a new feature - its more the possibility that a future upgrade could potentially not be available at all because Anthem themselves would not provide it directly to the UK in the absence of the distributor supporting the upgrade - hence leaving me with a D2v I can't upgrade.


Anyway, this is probably off topic given the thread title - so I'll leave it there.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

gdavies - my post wasn't aimed at any one person... first benlee thought it was him and now yourself. It's not like that at all and sorry if I came across otherwise. I have no issue with anyone who owns our products and I'd like to help as much as possible, whatever the situation. In doing so on a public forum what I'm very concerned about is the peanut gallery, hecklers who never owned our products and never will but find opportunities to cut down anything and anyone to do with everything that's out of their price range. Indeed, the more I look into how sour posts go out of control the more I get the impression that pricing is almost always at the root. Many other threads have been shut down over this and I'm sure no one wants that here.



brente and gdavies - the road map is as follows:


1. (now) Free 3D kits for eligible units purchased from participating US/Canada dealers July 15 2010 - Dec 31 2010.


2. (soon) Free 3D kits for eligible units purchased from participating US/Canada dealers Jan 1 2011 and later.


3. (soon) For-purchase 3D kits for units that do not fall in the above two categories. It looks like our UK distributor is already making them available, at least for units after serial number 142626. For AVM 50v and D2v having serial number before that, two circuit boards must be swapped instead of one. Pricing is to be announced, and we are trying to keep the cost as low as possible. At Anthem we have always viewed upgrades as more of an incentive to buy a D2v in the first place than a normal product, and margins are set accordingly, razor thin in this case.


The reason for the three phases is so supply can meet demand.



Russ - Hypothetically, you can install the upgrade yourself upon agreeing that if anything goes wrong it'll be your responsibility with no liability on our part, and can convince someone to mail the kit to you. I strongly recommend against anyone even entertaining the thought. The replacement cost on some boards, exposed to potential damage when the cover is off, is sky high.


----------



## Wookii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22435441
> 
> 
> gdavies - my post wasn't aimed at any one person... first benlee thought it was him and now yourself. It's not like that at all and sorry if I came across otherwise. I have no issue with anyone who owns our products and I'd like to help as much as possible, whatever the situation. In doing so on a public forum what I'm very concerned about is the peanut gallery, hecklers who never owned our products and never will but find opportunities to cut down anything and anyone to do with everything that's out of their price range. Indeed, the more I look into how sour posts go out of control the more I get the impression that pricing is almost always at the root. Many other threads have been shut down over this and I'm sure no one wants that here.
> 
> brente and gdavies - the road map is as follows:
> 
> 1. (now) Free 3D kits for eligible units purchased from participating US/Canada dealers July 15 2010 - Dec 31 2010.
> 
> 2. (soon) Free 3D kits for eligible units purchased from participating US/Canada dealers Jan 1 2011 and later.
> 
> 3. (soon) For-purchase 3D kits for units that do not fall in the above two categories. It looks like our UK distributor is already making them available, at least for units after serial number 142626. For AVM 50v and D2v having serial number before that, two circuit boards must be swapped instead of one. Pricing is to be announced, and we are trying to keep the cost as low as possible. At Anthem we have always viewed upgrades as more of an incentive to buy a D2v in the first place than a normal product, and margins are set accordingly, razor thin in this case.
> 
> The reason for the three phases is so supply can meet demand.
> 
> Russ - Hypothetically, you can install the upgrade yourself upon agreeing that if anything goes wrong it'll be your responsibility with no liability on our part, and can convince someone to mail the kit to you. I strongly recommend against anyone even entertaining the thought. The replacement cost on some boards, exposed to potential damage when the cover is off, is sky high.



Hi Nick,


Many thanks for for confirming that.


I have in fact ordered the 3D board today from AnthemAVS - so hopefully future D2v upgrades (assuming there are some planned?) will continue to be supported by them in the UK.


- Gareth


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

More often than not the plan is necessarily devised as time goes by due to unforeseen changes in technology. Sometimes it makes more sense to start anew, as was the case with HDMI 1.3 and lossless decoding. That's when D2 became D2v. This would likely have also been the case with 3D had we not found a way of cost-effectively adapting the top row of HDMI in/out jacks on the majority of D2v and AVM 50v units.


We're keeping an eye on 4K, but quite frankly from a distance. It's hard to predict when all the factors involved in making household 4K *sources* common will align, except that it won't be any time soon. On one hand packaged media is on its way to extinction but on the other the bandwidth required to stream 4K just isn't there in the US and Europe, let alone across the globe.


As for 4K upscaling of 1080p sources, there's no reason to rush out and add that to an existing outboard processor since projectors and some esoteric new plasma TVs already do it. Scaling is the easy part of a processor's job, and the D2/D2v already do the hard part, that is deinterlacing, as well as can be. Hence, no plans there.


The general idea is to increase the usable life of the unit by spending less on hardware upgrades than replacing the entire unit, but that's not always possible. Frankly I believe that a hardware kit that costs well under 10% of the original purchase, as is the case with the 3D kit, and keeps the unit current is a steal compared to typical depreciation on electronics today. Anyone who bought an AVM 20 or D1 and added upgrades through the years got a tremendous and unparalleled deal in the long run, whereas I've always advised that anyone who wasn't sure about trading in a D2 for D2v define for themselves what "nice to have" vs "need to have" is considering that sources can do the lossless decoding. It's impossible to know how similar things will go down the road.


----------



## Thxtheater

Nick, it's always a joy seeing you in this forum and I know that I speak for many of us that we truly, truly appreciate your passion for the Anthem line of products and perhaps even more importantly, conveying how passionately you are about customer service. I've said it before and I'll say it again, there are two reasons why I've stuck with Anthem:

Product quality
Anthem support


You certainly won't recall, but you helped me out many, many years ago with my AVM20. I don't specifically recall the issue but I think it was a question about getting replacement slow-blow fuses and a new rubber foot for the AVM20. Before I know it, at no cost comes the package with everything in it plus extras. It's very minor indeed, but try that with some other companies. That very minor experience plus a recent positive experience with support with my AVM50v reiterates for me the difference with Anthem. I know in support you often hear only the complaints; however, it's appropriate to also let you know how much the work you all do is appreciated.


Pass that sentiment up the food chain; and I still owe you an email with my connected devices regarding the audio drop out 


All the best,

Theo


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22435788
> 
> 
> More often than not the plan is necessarily devised as time goes by due to unforeseen changes in technology. Sometimes it makes more sense to start anew, as was the case with HDMI 1.3 and lossless decoding. That's when D2 became D2v. This would likely have also been the case with 3D had we not found a way of cost-effectively adapting the top row of HDMI in/out jacks on the majority of D2v and AVM 50v units.
> 
> We're keeping an eye on 4K, but quite frankly from a distance. It's hard to predict when all the factors involved in making household 4K *sources* common will align, except that it won't be any time soon. On one hand packaged media is on its way to extinction but on the other the bandwidth required to stream 4K just isn't there in the US and Europe, let alone across the globe.
> 
> As for 4K upscaling of 1080p sources, there's no reason to rush out and add that to an existing outboard processor since projectors and some esoteric new plasma TVs already do it. Scaling is the easy part of a processor's job, and the D2/D2v already do the hard part, that is deinterlacing, as well as can be. Hence, no plans there.
> 
> The general idea is to increase the usable life of the unit by spending less on hardware upgrades than replacing the entire unit, but that's not always possible. Frankly I believe that a hardware kit that costs well under 10% of the original purchase, as is the case with the 3D kit, and keeps the unit current is a steal compared to typical depreciation on electronics today. Anyone who bought an AVM 20 or D1 and added upgrades through the years got a tremendous and unparalleled deal in the long run, whereas I've always advised that anyone who wasn't sure about trading in a D2 for D2v define for themselves what "nice to have" vs "need to have" is considering that sources can do the lossless decoding. It's impossible to know how similar things will go down the road.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Theo, sorry if this sounds overly altruistic but I was just doing my job and just the same, thanks for the kind words. Where the lifelong love for music and the equipment and technology that makes and reproduces it is involved, I'd have to say it all just happens naturally and seeing someone get the same enjoyment makes it that much better.


I would like to assure everyone that Piero, Andrew, and Ziso who have backgrounds including years in the service departments of another well known manufacturer or at a Paradigm/Anthem dealer and now comprise the front line are in it for the passion and share the same level as anyone reading this. In the normal world, CS reps have an average career lifespan of only five years and it's due to burnout.


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38490#post_22436474
> 
> 
> Theo, sorry if this sounds overly altruistic but I was just doing my job and just the same, thanks for the kind words. Where the lifelong love for music and the equipment and technology that makes and reproduces it is involved, I'd have to say it all just happens naturally and seeing someone get the same enjoyment makes it that much better.
> 
> I would like to assure everyone that Piero, Andrew, and Ziso who have backgrounds including years in the service departments of another well known manufacturer or at a Paradigm/Anthem dealer and now comprise the front line are in it for the passion and share the same level as anyone reading this. In the normal world, CS reps have an average career lifespan of only five years and it's due to burnout.



you can't quit yet......i just got my avm50!


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Update to 3D road map - kits are:


- now available for any AVM 50v and D2v with serial number after 142626. Hardware is free for eligible units purchased from participating US/Canada dealers July 15 2010 and later. If eligible, your dealer would have mentioned it at time of purchase. For those that weren't part of the promotion, US pricing for the hardware is $500. International pricing varies, and is surely higher for reasons explained in an earlier post. Dealers may charge for installation. Please contact your dealer for further info and to order.


- soon to be available for AVM 50v and D2v with serial number preceding 142626. Estimated US price $1500, international pricing to be determined locally. Official announcement to follow in the coming weeks.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22436487
> 
> 
> Update to 3D road map - kits are:
> 
> - now available for any AVM 50v and D2v with serial number after 142626. Hardware is free for eligible units purchased from participating US/Canada dealers July 15 2010 and later. If eligible, your dealer would have mentioned it at time of purchase. For those that weren't part of the promotion, US pricing for the hardware is $500. International pricing varies, and is surely higher for reasons explained in an earlier post. Dealers may charge for installation. Please contact your dealer for further info and to order.
> 
> - soon to be available for AVM 50v and D2v with serial number preceding 142626. Estimated US price $1500, international pricing to be determined locally. Official announcement to follow in the coming weeks.



$1500 !!!!!!! Gulp.

























The price of being an early adopter, huh.....


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Spider, I know... but the 3D upgrade was never part of any discussion until the second half of 2010, so I consider the later-introduced option to buy it a bonus especially for the 2009 units. Think of the depreciation and potential obsolescence had it been otherwise. If you decide to go with the upgrade you're getting 3.5 years' more use (difference between D2v and D2v 3D launch dates) in exchange for the $1500 minus the amount the upgrade adds resale value.


And here's the best part:


The D2v listed for $2K less in 2009 than it does now (been through that discussion and for one aluminum and copper are practically gold now). Heck, you're getting the upgrade for less than nothing vs waiting 3.5 years to buy a D2v 3D! Feel better? I'm sure you do but just in case, think of what the next 3.5 years would be like without a system.


----------



## dweltman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22436883
> 
> 
> Spider, I know... but the 3D upgrade was never part of any discussion until the second half of 2010, so I consider the later-introduced option to buy it a bonus especially for the 2009 units. Think of the depreciation and potential obsolescence had it been otherwise. If you decide to go with the upgrade you're getting 3.5 years' more use (difference between D2v and D2v 3D launch dates) in exchange for the $1500 minus the amount the upgrade adds resale value.
> 
> And here's the best part:
> 
> The D2v listed for $2K less in 2009 than it does now (been through that discussion and for one aluminum and copper are practically gold now). Heck, you're getting the upgrade for less than nothing vs waiting 3.5 years to buy a D2v 3D! Feel better? I'm sure you do but just in case, think of what the next 3.5 years would be like without a system.




Nick


Will the upgrade still be an easily performed local upgrade?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Anyone who can swap the daughter board should be able to swap the video processing board. Dealers have swapped them before but each one still decides whether to do it in-house or send the unit to the factory.


I should mention something else even though the whole thing has barely started: Upgrades are available for as long as they can be manufactured, meaning they'll be around for quite a while but when they're gone, they're gone. The parts needed to make them won't be available forever, and you know how it goes with HDMI...


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22436883
> 
> 
> Spider, I know... but the 3D upgrade was never part of any discussion until the second half of 2010, so I consider the later-introduced option to buy it a bonus especially for the 2009 units. Think of the depreciation and potential obsolescence had it been otherwise. If you decide to go with the upgrade you're getting 3.5 years' more use (difference between D2v and D2v 3D launch dates) in exchange for the $1500 minus the amount the upgrade adds resale value.
> 
> And here's the best part:
> 
> The D2v listed for $2K less in 2009 than it does now (been through that discussion and for one aluminum and copper are practically gold now). Heck, you're getting the upgrade for less than nothing vs waiting 3.5 years to buy a D2v 3D! Feel better? I'm sure you do but just in case, think of what the next 3.5 years would be like without a system.



Did you move into sales Nick?










It's a bonus for sure. And I'm glad I bought Anthem because I don't know of any other company that would allow me to do the same thing. I will no doubt end up getting it to stay current.


Out of curiosity why such a steep difference between the 'older' and 'newer' D2Vs? What's the difference between the units and do I 'gain' anything else by buying this upgrade as a by-product (I know they are all the same in terms of functionality).


Are the early machines also just a board swap that can be user performed or will they be more complex?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22436487
> 
> 
> Update to 3D road map - kits are:
> 
> - now available for any AVM 50v and D2v with serial number after 142626. Hardware is free for eligible units purchased from participating US/Canada dealers July 15 2010 and later. If eligible, your dealer would have mentioned it at time of purchase. For those that weren't part of the promotion, US pricing for the hardware is $500. International pricing varies, and is surely higher for reasons explained in an earlier post. Dealers may charge for installation. Please contact your dealer for further info and to order.
> 
> - soon to be available for AVM 50v and D2v with serial number preceding 142626. Estimated US price $1500, international pricing to be determined locally. Official announcement to follow in the coming weeks.



I have been waiting since November 2009 for this upgrade while having to sit at firmware 2.10 because all the others cause me more problems and now 1,500.00 for pass through 3D, my serial number is 142314. I may go buy a 400.00 Pioneer or Denon to run my 3D


----------



## AVfile

I don't feel sorry for you if you bought it at the old price!


----------



## bohai

Zone 2 question. I finally got zone 2 to play, but it only works in Manual, not copy. I can live with that. My question is that my I have to turn volume to -6db to get very much sound out of my Z2 speakers. They are driven by a 50 Amp per channel Kroll distibution system. I cannot turn Z2 above 0 db on the Anthem. Am I missing some set up info here? Is there a way to increase the Z2 volume?


Also, set up ARC last weekend, did make a great difference, although the center channel now seems a little tinny. Set up was easy.


Thanks guys,


----------



## dmusoke


Nick:

 

Since you are done upgrading the D2v video section as far as you can, are you doing to do the same for the analog audio sections? Maybe board swaps using more up to date ADC's and DACs for improved audio?

 

Thanks,

David


----------



## perioms

Yesterday I upgraded my D2v from 2.1 to 3.09. First I thought I have a new processor. Wow. The new sound is very impressive.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22437582
> 
> 
> I have been waiting since November 2009 for this upgrade while having to sit at firmware 2.10 because all the others cause me more problems and now 1,500.00 for pass through 3D, my serial number is 142314. I may go buy a 400.00 Pioneer or Denon to run my 3D



My serial number is earlier than yours and 3.09 works fine on it. Well, I do get the low volume thing periodically, but it happened with 2.10 too. Looking at the current price of the AVM50v 3D, it wouldn't be on my list if I was looking to replace my prepro. Being able to get one for only $1500 is one heck of a deal.


Don't get me wrong, I know that our equipment and usage of the Anthem is different and the problems you are experiencing may be with functions that I don't use. I just wanted to give you another way of looking at the price of the upgrade. There is also a chance that the upgrade won't fix your issues, but I can't see you being happy with a cheap AVR after owning Anthem.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22438665
> 
> 
> Since you are done upgrading the D2v video section as far as you can, are you doing to do the same for the analog audio sections? Maybe board swaps using more up to date ADC's and DACs for improved audio?



None whatsoever.


The analog audio is places that would be tough to change and if you're considering the services of mod outfits, be aware that modded units I've seen come back here for repair were simply butchered. There's a lot more to circuit design than looking at op amp data sheets and saying, oh I like this one, it should work as a drop-in replacement. For one, the optimal running points shown in data sheets, if they're even to be trusted as representing production ICs and not just golden samples, aren't necessarily the optimal points for any given circuit.


I can't see any potential improvement to the converter sections because when the upsampling Statement DAC circuit was under development we tried all the hi-end chips and picked the best based on our evaluations. In blind testing no one could tell the difference between analog-direct vs analog-DSP with all processing such as bass management and surround modes set so they do nothing. The best measurement equipment (yes it's more sensitive than the ear and we're no longer in the 1970s) corroborates this. Since the ADC-DAC chain is audibly transparent it follows that the DAC is as good as it gets as far as the ear is concerned. More info is in the upsampling white paper, linked on the D2v page.


The AVM circuit also has excellent performance. At the center of its difference between direct and DSP modes is a very slight frequency response aberration at the highest frequencies, which is normal for "normal" DACs, so I'd be surprised if the difference would be detected by anyone no longer able to hear the constant squeal that CRT TVs make.


So in essence the only way to improve upon the ADCs and DACs would be to lower their cost while keeping the same performance, except that we'd have to charge money to retrofit such an "upgrade".


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22438000
> 
> 
> I finally got zone 2 to play, but it only works in Manual, not copy. I can live with that. My question is that my I have to turn volume to -6db to get very much sound out of my Z2 speakers. They are driven by a 50 Amp per channel Kroll distibution system. I cannot turn Z2 above 0 db on the Anthem. Am I missing some set up info here? Is there a way to increase the Z2 volume?



In normal passthrough mode analog inputs go to analog outputs and digital inputs go to digital output (REC). In Copy mode, analog inputs go to digital output (REC) and digital inputs go to analog outputs.


The volume is because of the speaker efficiency and amp's input sensitivity. Does it have an input level control? It may not matter in the long run - see the Volumes setup menu for setting max volume for each zone. It can go to +10 but raising it that high may result in audible background noise.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22437582
> 
> 
> I have been waiting since November 2009 for this upgrade while having to sit at firmware 2.10 because all the others cause me more problems and now 1,500.00 for pass through 3D, my serial number is 142314. I may go buy a 400.00 Pioneer or Denon to run my 3D



As mentioned, v3.09 applies to any AVM 50v / D2v, and Blu-ray players with dual output jacks - one for running 3D straight to the display - have been around for a while. Some e.g. Panasonic even allow you to force the 3D output format, which means it'll pass through any version of HDMI (this includes D2 / AVM 50) as long as the display accepts that format. I posted some details here quite some time ago, twice, though you can always contact tech support for the latest info.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22437498
> 
> 
> Did you move into sales Nick?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Out of curiosity why such a steep difference between the 'older' and 'newer' D2Vs? What's the difference between the units and do I 'gain' anything else by buying this upgrade as a by-product (I know they are all the same in terms of functionality).
> 
> Are the early machines also just a board swap that can be user performed or will they be more complex?



Not unless I start earning commission but seriously, while in tech support I used to get just as many pre-sales questions and got to see many situations from many angles. Upgradeitis and buyer remorse have always been around.


The 3x difference in kit prices, and believe me it's low, is because one has the little red board and the other has the little one plus the big one. These can be seen through the vent holes or in some photos if you look for them. The sales department and I made the case to the brass that the big kit will be low-volume, meaning we never stood to make lots of money from it in the first place so we may as well give it goodwill pricing. The brass agreed that this makes sense.


No difference between upgraded D2v and what's rolling off the line today.


Technically no hardware upgrades are to be user performed, only dealer/distributor. Anyone who intends otherwise is on his/her own if anything goes wrong.


----------



## Thxtheater

Anthem 50v Audio Bug:


I'm going to be emailing over to Anthem support (*[email protected]*) in the hopes of giving them more info about the audio bug. If you have not yet emailed Anthem support with your setup, please do so. I really want to help stomp out this bug. I'm copying my setup below so that it can inspire others.


My unit was sent to Anthem this summer and passed all bench tests. So I know it's not an issue with my unit. So here is what my current configuration looks like. To the best of my recollection, I've experienced the audio issue when trying to listen to the AppleTV and Cable. I don't off-hand recall it happening with the Oppo. The Roku I use for specific purposes and haven't noticed it there.

*SOFTWARE REV:* I'm using 3.09 and I've had the audio bug in 3.09.

*HDMI Sources Connected:* I currently have four HDMI sources connected for debugging purposes. My Anthem is connected to an older Sony LCD TV.

HDMI 1 = Gen 2 AppleTV. This unit is always on unless it is in sleep mode. I have set it to sleep after 15 minutes of inactivity
HDMI 2 = Oppo BDP-83. The Oppo is off at all times unless that source is selected.
HDMI 3 = ROKU. The Roku is on at all times unless in sleep mode.
HDMI 4 = Cable Scientific Atlanta 4250HD Cable Box. This is on at all times and never powered off.

*How I power on my Anthem:*

There are three ways that I power on my Anthem. This is the order of frequency that I power on the unit.

Logitech Harmony Remote.
Directly pressing the source that I want to play on the Anthem
Directly pressing the MAIN power button.

*3D UPGRADE:*

I have not yet installed the 3D upgrade.


In terms of other MISC items:

I have my sub being triggered with the MAIN zone being on. I do have DC offset issues at my house and I'm using a Humbuster III. I've used it with the Anthem connected and with the Anthem not connected and it's happened both times.


I'm also using a 3-prong Shunyata power cable instead of the 2 prong that came with the Anthem.


Not sure if I should be listing anything else at this point.


Regards,

Theo


----------



## AVfile

Low volume bug happens with my Oppo 83 and it is always the last thing to be powered on. Has just occurred last two nights in a row.


I usually turn on the AVM and display to let them warm up for a while (20 minutes) before turning on the source to avoid any race conditions but it doesn't seem to help. Note, if I turn off the AVM after ejecting the disc and before turning off the Oppo the Oppo locks up!


What is your muting level in the volume controls menu and would you say the low volume error is of the same dB?


----------



## bohai




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22439103
> 
> 
> In normal pass through mode analog inputs go to analog outputs and digital inputs go to digital output (REC). In Copy mode, analog inputs go to digital output (REC) and digital inputs go to analog outputs.
> 
> The volume is because of the speaker efficiency and amp's input sensitivity. Does it have an input level control? It may not matter in the long run - see the Volumes setup menu for setting max volume for each zone. It can go to +10 but raising it that high may result in audible background noise.



Zone two volume was just fine with my Onkyo. Each speaker has an individual volume control, and believe me, previously there is no way you could turn up high. My outdoor speakers are BOSE outdoor and inside are various different Jamo in ceiling speakers. With volume on the Anthem set at -5, and the Z2 speakers at max vol setting, the listening was very soft and one could easily carry on a conversation.


----------



## bohai

I just tried a different source and same results. Is it possible that my Z2, previously powered by Onkyo NR905 thru a Knoll amp/dist, boosted power thru the Knoll(which I found out is only 30 watts per). And now that there is essentially only linbe out and no power boost, the knoll is underpowered?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Just in case, you do know that Zone 2 has its own Volume setting, correct?


Select Zone 2 for control using the buttons on the top of the remote, then adjust volume.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22439093
> 
> 
> 
> None whatsoever.
> 
> The analog audio is places that would be tough to change and if you're considering the services of mod outfits, be aware that modded units I've seen come back here for repair were simply butchered. There's a lot more to circuit design than looking at op amp data sheets and saying, oh I like this one, it should work as a drop-in replacement. For one, the optimal running points shown in data sheets, if they're even to be trusted as representing production ICs and not just golden samples, aren't necessarily the optimal points for any given circuit.
> 
> 
> I can't see any potential improvement to the converter sections because when the upsampling Statement DAC circuit was under development we tried all the hi-end chips and picked the best based on our evaluations. In blind testing no one could tell the difference between analog-direct vs analog-DSP with all processing such as bass management and surround modes set so they do nothing. The best measurement equipment (yes it's more sensitive than the ear and we're no longer in the 1970s) corroborates this. Since the ADC-DAC chain is audibly transparent it follows that the DAC is as good as it gets as far as the ear is concerned. More info is in the upsampling white paper, linked on the D2v page.
> 
> The AVM circuit also has excellent performance. At the center of its difference between direct and DSP modes is a very slight frequency response aberration at the highest frequencies, which is normal for "normal" DACs, so I'd be surprised if the difference would be detected by anyone no longer able to hear the constant squeal that CRT TVs make.
> 
> So in essence the only way to improve upon the ADCs and DACs would be to lower their cost while keeping the same performance, except that we'd have to charge money to retrofit such an "upgrade".


 

Thanks for letting us in on the D2v development process. Now, when you say that you couldn't tell the difference between Analog Direct and Analog DSP (with all its processing disabled), were these tests done using pure sinewaves or with music (Stereo / MCH)? If with music, there were no detectable audible changes in imaging, depth, soundstaging etc??? No measurable changes as well? Please explain how this could happen. I'm not doubting your data results at all Nick ...  just scatching my head trying to understand it all.

 

- David


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22440967
> 
> 
> Low volume bug happens with my Oppo 83 and it is always the last thing to be powered on. Has just occurred last two nights in a row.
> 
> I usually turn on the AVM and display to let them warm up for a while (20 minutes) before turning on the source to avoid any race conditions but it doesn't seem to help. Note, if I turn off the AVM after ejecting the disc and before turning off the Oppo the Oppo locks up!
> 
> What is your muting level in the volume controls menu and would you say the low volume error is of the same dB?



Stefan,


Can you please email your current system configuration to Anthem support using exactly the information I provided. This is what Nick had asked. Any additional information we can give them will help them identify the bug. However, it's important that Anthem support gets consistent information from each of us.


To your specific question about muting level. Mine is set to Silent. So there's no correlation there.


Theo


----------



## bohai

It turns out when I was setting up the new system, I pushed a button on back of Knoll that was not supposed to be pressed. ALL IS GOOD NOW.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

David - as the white paper indicates, measured Statement DAC artifacts start at over 12 MHz, and they're way down in triple-digit signal to noise ratios - two reasons that they're inaudible.


Listening tests normally use a variety of good quality stereo music downmixed to mono. One speaker is used because the test is for distortions generated by the playback equipment, not spatial illusions which can mask what's being tested and really skew results - more on that in the first ten pages of section 8.2 in Floyd Toole's book.


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I just installed a 3D Kit on my D2v and was surprised that the Settings Backup utility (v.1.03) won't work anymore. It wouldn't see the device.

It worked right before the procedure in order to perform a backup but now I cannot load my settings.

Is this a known issue with the board replacement?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22442246
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I just installed a 3D Kit on my D2v and was surprised that the Settings Backup utility (v.1.03) won't work anymore. It wouldn't see the device.
> 
> It worked right before the procedure in order to perform a backup but now I cannot load my settings.
> 
> Is this a known issue with the board replacement?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yeah, that's a pending issue. With the upgrade installed the unit has a new model number, and the Settings Backup utility doesn't recognize it. Not sure when Anthem will get around to releasing a fix for the utility.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Some things must be wrong with the 3D upgrade.

I just proceeded with the installation of my 3D Kit on a D2v and here are just a few of the problems I encountered:


1) As I wrote in an earlier post the Settings Backup utility stopped working.

2) Running ARC the first time, I set my speaker level to 75dB on my dB meter. I got disruptions of the process several times, ARC asked to repeat the testing of some speakers. I also sensed that the sequence was not smooth as it used too. Some noises and cracks. The end result was bad. Level was averaging at 65dB on the graphs. Sub was well below the required level.

3) I decided to completely erase my D2v and start from scratch. I used the Flash Eraser v.2.03. I had the scare of my life! After the erase my D2v would not power on at all. Reset, hard reset, unplug from AC and back. Nothing helped. Display and all leds just dead. Then I thought maybe the D2v behaves like a computer. If everything has been erased then maybe even the buttons and IR receptor do not work anymore. So I just started to reload the 3.09 firmware and it came back to life.

4) After the erase I ran ARC again. This time I set levels to 80dB on my dB meter. But when I looked at the results it barely reached the 70dB average on graphs. Sub still too low on graph and ARC unable to correct the level that much.

BTW, I checked with another dB meter just to be on the safe side.

I decided to leave my ARC result as they were and wait from more on the forum. Then I checked the video.

Isn't the D2v with the new 3.09 FW and new 3D board supposed to switch refresh rates automatically when the video config out is set to Auto resolution?

Well it doesn't, I played several sources/material at different refresh rates but invariably the output from the D2v was 59.97 (60fps). I was checking on the info screen of my projector.


Please share your knowledge and experience.


Thanks


Correction: I just saw the manual saying that the Video out cfg in Source menu must be set to through in order for the fame rate to switch automatically. It works, yes, but it disables the OSD.


----------



## wingnut4772

What is the recommended video setting for a Sharp Elite set? Would I be better off just leaving it to Through.

TIA


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22442448
> 
> 
> Yeah, that's a pending issue. With the upgrade installed the unit has a new model number, and the Settings Backup utility doesn't recognize it. Not sure when Anthem will get around to releasing a fix for the utility.
> 
> --Bob



Does LVSE still work and will the upgrade destroy my custom video settings?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22441828
> 
> 
> Stefan,
> 
> Can you please email your current system configuration to Anthem support using exactly the information I provided. This is what Nick had asked. Any additional information we can give them will help them identify the bug. However, it's important that Anthem support gets consistent information from each of us.
> 
> To your specific question about muting level. Mine is set to Silent. So there's no correlation there.
> 
> Theo



I have been told by tech support that all my trouble reports have been entered into a database







but I agree with you and plan to send this one again in the format you have kindly established.


----------



## p.las

I have a apple tv connected to my avm50v via hdmi. What shut i set the video output to? Both in the processor and the Apple tv?


----------



## stanger89

OK, so I got my 3D upgrade installed and for the most part it went well. The shop got it installed and updated without issue, and I got it reinstalled and up an running with no immediate issues. Watched a movie from my Pioneer BDP-51FD and all was well.


Unfortunately that's where the happiness ended. Flipped over to my SageTV HD300 to watch some TV I'd recorded and it was just dropping in and out of sync continuously. Swapped over to my Xbox 360, and a similar problem there. Tried swapping my HD300 from the new inputs (3) to a "old" one (6) but no effect.


I figured I'd seen my Darbee Darblet exacerbate similar issues before so I pulled that out, and the picture stabilized but the audio on the HD300 was jumping back and forth between DD (working) and PCM (not working) so quickly that you get no audio.


So I'm sort of at a loss right now, the new 3.09 SW has made my HD300 basically unusable, which is unfortunate since I probably use it >75% of the time in my HT. That and the Xbox is nearly unusable with the Darblet in the loop and that takes up the majority of the rest of the time.











Aw, bloody..... I had a long support request typed up to Anthem on their website but it didn't take because I didn't see the captcha box (I run Firefox with NoScript so I didn't even see it) and now the whole thing is lost


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38550#post_22445240
> 
> 
> Aw, bloody..... I had a long support request typed up to Anthem on their website but it didn't take because I didn't see the captcha box (I run Firefox with NoScript so I didn't even see it) and now the whole thing is lost



Yes ! That is very exasperating. It also happened to me twice. I wish Anthem would fix the page. I asked them before to have someone look at it and it has never been done.

So your lengthy technical issue message will be erased and disappear if your submission does not go through for any reason.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38550#post_22445266
> 
> 
> Yes ! That is very exasperating. It also happened to me twice. I wish Anthem would fix the page. I asked them before to have someone look at it and it has never been done.
> 
> So your lengthy technical issue message will be erased and disappear if your submission does not go through for any reason.



Also been there done that on the Anthem site. Grrrrrrr...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Select All, then Copy, then Select None before doing the Submit. If it barfs, start over with a Paste.

--Bob


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38550#post_22445889
> 
> 
> ^ Select All, then Copy, then Select None before doing the Submit. If it barfs, start over with a Paste.
> 
> --Bob



Hindsight is a wonderful thing........of course it could just work in the first place to negate the insurance requirement......


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38550#post_22445889
> 
> 
> ^ Select All, then Copy, then Select None before doing the Submit. If it barfs, start over with a Paste.
> 
> --Bob



The one I sent this morning I typed in notepad and copied over, but it would have been nice to know I might need to do that going in (or not having to do that at all







).


So I don't suppose anyone has any suggestions about my "new" handshaking issues with no other changes than the 3D board and 2.11-3.09 upgrade?


----------



## xtrips

Hello

For those of you having a D2v 3D and using the Video output "through" mode for automatic frame rate switching, do you have access to the OSD? Because I don't.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ "Through" mode means no video processing -- which also means no on-screen graphics overlay.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38550#post_22446509
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> So I don't suppose anyone has any suggestions about my "new" handshaking issues with no other changes than the 3D board and 2.11-3.09 upgrade?



Not really, except that the usual rule applies: HDMI problems almost always come down to cabling issues. It may be that the new firmware has exposed a weakness in the cables you are using.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38550#post_22446935
> 
> 
> ^ "Through" mode means no video processing -- which also means no on-screen graphics overlay.
> 
> --Bob



Ooooook, so would it be right to conclude that if I want automatic frame rate switching I have to give up on OSD?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes. For video, through is like connecting direct to the display. For audio, the audio is still extracted and processed.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38550#post_22446941
> 
> 
> Not really, except that the usual rule applies: HDMI problems almost always come down to cabling issues. It may be that the new firmware has exposed a weakness in the cables you are using.
> 
> --Bob



I already replaced all my cables with Blue Jeans Cable Series 1 (run to projector) and Series FE (all the short interconnects) when I originally got the Darblet and it exposed issues with my previous monoprice, not-High Speed Certified cables. And all the cables are lenghts that are within their certified limits (ie the Series 1 cable is High Speed Certified to 25ft and it's a 25ft cable, all the rest are ~3ft or less).


I kind of doubt anyone here would seriously suggest there's something _better_ out there for HDMI cables.


I'm hoping Anthem can come up with something because my HD300 is now unusable now, and I can't use anything but my Blu-ray player with the Darblet.


Well I suppose one option is I could hook the HD300 up via component, but then I basically can't use it for my Blu-ray jukebox. Well I could but I won't because I won't get HBR audio then.


And I suppose I could stick the Darblet between the Blur-ray player and the 50V instead of after the 50V but then I don't get it's benefits for most of my usage.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38550#post_22448375
> 
> 
> I already replaced all my cables with Blue Jeans Cable Series 1 (run to projector) and Series FE (all the short interconnects) when I originally got the Darblet and it exposed issues with my previous monoprice, not-High Speed Certified cables. And all the cables are lenghts that are within their certified limits (ie the Series 1 cable is High Speed Certified to 25ft and it's a 25ft cable, all the rest are ~3ft or less).



I think I remember Bob saying 3 ft cable can be a problem and that the shortest should be 6ft.


----------



## jgauthier72

hi,

i just got my new kit installed:

Anthem Statement D2v 3D

A5 + A2


Very excited about it!


my prior Receiver was a Denon AVR-5803.


I am running in a little issue and maybe someone will be able to help. I have noticed that my left surround speaker and, only that one was doing some kind of a hum noise that I never noticed before. After I have ran the ARC calibration, which ran successfully, I can see that this same channel had been set to +6 db whereas my other surrounds (i have 7.1) were set to -5-6db. As expected, my left surround is quite louder than the others and it is obvious when i do a manual test tone on this speaker.


After I switched a few cables to determine the cause of the problem, it seems that the Rs232 cable is the cause. As soon as I plug it in I can hear the hum noise. As soon as i remove it, the speaker backs to normal hiss sound like all the other speakers. Note that it does not matter whether or not the serial cable is connected at the other end. The noise still appears.


I use Audioquest DiamondBack XLR Interconnects and the serial cable is the one that comes with the ARC.


Does anyone ever had such problem?


thanks

-Jonathan


----------



## Nicoff

Please help with observed changes from different versions of ARC.


I recently replaced the tweeters in my L-R front speakers so I decided to run ARC again. Since it had been more than 2 years since I ran ARC (I was running version 2.x), I downloaded the newest version (3.x) and re-read Bob's recommendations to re-familiarize myself with how to run ARC given that I had not done it in years.


A few observations:

1. The MEASURED curves show drooping of frequencies above 15k for ALL speakers. In the past, previous measurements for the same speakers did NOT show that. Given that all speakers show the same behavior, I am thinking that maybe the change is attributable to the newest version of ARC rather than changes in the performance of all speakers. Is that the case?


2. I noticed that the new version of ARC does not recommend that I use old files taken with previous versions of ARC which may which would lead me to believe that both are measuring the actual frequencies differently and could explain why the old results cannot be used with the new version of ARC.


2. When I re-read Bob's recommendations, he specifically says that when doing Target Customization, the target Max Eq. Frequency should "NOT" be greater than 5k (the "NOT" emphasis was Bob's). I recall that a couple of years ago or so he seemed ok using a higher target (in my case he recommended that I use 20k).


I am scratching my head since I have not made any major changes to my system, yet if I look at the graphs alone, visually it would appear that my system is not performing as well as it used to. I have not done extended critical listening yet, just visual observations.


Can someone offer any suggestions/insight? Bob?


Thanks!!!!


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38550#post_22448382
> 
> 
> I think I remember Bob saying 3 ft cable can be a problem and that the shortest should be 6ft.



I'll go try and dig out some 6ft cables and see what happens.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22442814
> 
> 
> What is the recommended video setting for a Sharp Elite set? Would I be better off just leaving it to Through.
> 
> TIA



I wouldn't mess with the settings unless you have the calibration equipment and want to do a greyscale (custom gamma curves) using LiveVideoSettingsEditor, after calibrating the TV.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22443165
> 
> 
> Does LVSE still work and will the upgrade destroy my custom video settings?



Now would be a good time for the 3D beta testers to speak up... I'm getting ready to send the unit in and have invested dozens of hours on custom gamma curves.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38550#post_22449188
> 
> 
> I'll go try and dig out some 6ft cables and see what happens.



Is HDMI the worst designed interconnect ever?


Regardless, I looked again behind my equipment and I had a 1.5ft monoprice cable between the 50V and the Darblet, so I swapped it out for one of my 3ft BJC Series FE ones.


Well, now my HD300 works fine. The confusing part is that without the Darblet or short cable in the path there were issues but with the Darblet and the "right" cable, there aren't.










To summarize:
50V -> Monoprice 1.5ft -> Darblet -> 25ft BJC Series 1 -> Planar = HD300 No Worky
50V -> 25ft BJC Series 1 -> Planar = HD300 No worky (but less so than above)
50V -> 3ft BJC Series FE -> Darblet -> 25ft BJC Series 1 -> Planar = Worky?


Regardless it appears I'm back up and running and fully functional again










Oh and my power on macro in my URC MX880 works still with 3.09, I know there were some issues at least in some of the intermediate builds. So HDMI shenanigans not withstanding the whole 3D upgrade was a pretty painless/pleasant experience, so kudos to Anthem.


----------



## AVfile

Hooray, you found it and Bob was right again!

I had a problem with a cheap 6ft Monoprice HDMI 1.3 cable before. In fact I thought the display device was defective, until I tried a different cable. Funny thing is I still use it because it works with other devices.

PS - Yes the HDMI connector is terrible. DVI was better.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

HDMI is just twisted pair cable. As such there's a certain, predictable signal degradation depending on the length of the cable. HDMI transmitter and receiver chips are designed around a set amount of such degradation -- which corresponds to about 6 feet (2 meters) of cable. Both shorter and longer cables diverge from that assumption. This is pretty much the way HDMI's predecessor cabling (DVI) worked as well. It was designed around the idea of connecting computer monitors to computers, and 6 feet seemed "just about right".


Now, pretty early on the powers that be in HDMI land decided they'd better let people use longer cables or they'd never be able to foist HDMI on projector owners. So they required "re-equalization" circuits in HDMI transmitter/receiver chips which allow the chips to function in the face of more such degradation. Thus longer cables would work. DVI doesn't have that, so if either end of the cable is a DVI socket you are pretty much out of luck trying to use more than a 10 foot cable.


Notice that I said MORE degradation. No such provisions were made to improve HDMI for LESS. Thus cables SHORTER than 6 feet could still cause problems. Whether they did or not would depend upon arcane details of the construction of the cable. I.e., how close the actual signal degradation came to the the predictions.


Meanwhile, starting with the SECOND generation of HDMI V1.3 chips, this cunning plan was gilded even further by using "dynamic" re-equalization that attempted to detect the varying amounts of degradation from longer cables and adjust things even better. The trick is, this isn't in older chips and it isn't in the first generation of V1.3 chips, and if the chips at both end of the cable don't both have it, dynamic re-equalization doesn't work, and you are back to the original HDMI equalization scheme.


On top of that, HDMI signal problems are also caused by the wire fan-out and fan-in at plugs and sockets -- meaning the more such plugs and sockets in the path the worse -- and by mechanical fit of plugs in sockets -- meaning one cable might work better with a given socket simply because of the luck of the draw on the fit.


Really, it's a constant surprise to me when it EVER works!


To maximize the odds:


1) Don't use cables shorter than 6 feet between any transmitter and receiver. (Shorty "port saver" adapters don't count because they extend another cable.)


2) Don't use adapters, daisy-chained cables, or wall plates since they add plugs/sockets in the path. (And yep, that includes those shorty port saver adapters!)


3) Make sure each plug is fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket with nothing (e.g., cable weight or cable drape) tugging it in any direction. This is to improve the mechanical fit. If necessary, support the cable near the socket in some fashion.


4) Minimize the signal bandwidth. If your display doesn't really do anything with 10 or 12 bit (Deep Color) data, then send it 8 bit


5) Anything that works is better than anything that doesn't work. If you come up with a connection method that violates the rules above and works, then don't "fix" it. You've likely run into one of these variances in plug/socket fit or in transmitter/receiver version levels I alluded to above.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38550#post_22449299
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22443165
> 
> 
> Does LVSE still work and will the upgrade destroy my custom video settings?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now would be a good time for the 3D beta testers to speak up... I'm getting ready to send the unit in and have invested dozens of hours on custom gamma curves.
Click to expand...


I really don't know the answer. In all the firmware installs I did during the testing I never once lost my Video Source Adjust Menu settings, but I was not using custom gamma curves (which are saved in that same memory on the video board). I believe the warning has to do with the failsafe nature of the firmware install for the video board. I.e., if the upgrade fails to take on the video board for any reason, I believe the install resets that board to make sure it can complete the install and you aren't left with a bricked unit. And the reset would erase those settings memories. So the answer to whether you'll lose the settings is "Maybe".


You are going to have to check with Anthem on whether LVSE works at this point. Settings Backup Utility stopped working just before the product shipped, apparently because the hardware upgrade now resulted in it seeing a new model number it didn't recognize. And the utility has not been fixed yet to correct that. I don't know if LVSE has that problem, because I've not had occasion to try it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38550#post_22449123
> 
> 
> Please help with observed changes from different versions of ARC.
> 
> 
> I recently replaced the tweeters in my L-R front speakers so I decided to run ARC again. Since it had been more than 2 years since I ran ARC (I was running version 2.x), I downloaded the newest version (3.x) and re-read Bob's recommendations to re-familiarize myself with how to run ARC given that I had not done it in years.
> 
> 
> A few observations:
> 
> 1. The MEASURED curves show drooping of frequencies above 15k for ALL speakers. In the past, previous measurements for the same speakers did NOT show that. Given that all speakers show the same behavior, I am thinking that maybe the change is attributable to the newest version of ARC rather than changes in the performance of all speakers. Is that the case?
> 
> 
> 2. I noticed that the new version of ARC does not recommend that I use old files taken with previous versions of ARC which may which would lead me to believe that both are measuring the actual frequencies differently and could explain why the old results cannot be used with the new version of ARC.
> 
> 
> 2. When I re-read Bob's recommendations, he specifically says that when doing Target Customization, the target Max Eq. Frequency should "NOT" be greater than 5k (the "NOT" emphasis was Bob's). I recall that a couple of years ago or so he seemed ok using a higher target (in my case he recommended that I use 20k).
> 
> 
> I am scratching my head since I have not made any major changes to my system, yet if I look at the graphs alone, visually it would appear that my system is not performing as well as it used to. I have not done extended critical listening yet, just visual observations.
> 
> 
> Can someone offer any suggestions/insight? Bob?
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!!



The drop off above 15KHz probably reflects a real difficulty the mic was having picking up those frequencies. If it is the same for all your speakers, and up that high in frequency, then I'd ignore it. Don't try to force correction up above that.


The chart difference compared to the old version is likely due to the new version not trying to correct the presentation of higher frequencies in the assumption the mic will have listening difficulties up there.


I'm personally using Max EQ Frequency of 15KHz right now. From my charts, I believe the mic is seeing good data up to 15KHz, and I like the results better when I let ARC correct that high. The trick with pushing the correction above 5KHz is you have to believe the mic is recording valid results up there. Otherwise it is "correcting" bogus readings. High frequency measurements are affected by the directionality of the speakers and even environmental factors like the humidity in the room. In addition, if you tell ARC to apply resources up there, it may not be able to do as good a job at lower frequencies. So you have to look at the full frequency range of the charts to make sure you are still getting good correction in the bass and midrange. The default 5KHz value is a safe value. Ideally you should take the time to build a 5KHz solution and also your higher frequency solution and then load one -- listen -- load the other -- listen and decide for your self which one SOUNDS better to you. The listening is the real test -- not what the charts look like.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jgauthier72*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38550#post_22448996
> 
> 
> hi,
> 
> i just got my new kit installed:
> 
> Anthem Statement D2v 3D
> 
> A5 + A2
> 
> 
> Very excited about it!
> 
> 
> my prior Receiver was a Denon AVR-5803.
> 
> 
> I am running in a little issue and maybe someone will be able to help. I have noticed that my left surround speaker and, only that one was doing some kind of a hum noise that I never noticed before. After I have ran the ARC calibration, which ran successfully, I can see that this same channel had been set to +6 db whereas my other surrounds (i have 7.1) were set to -5-6db. As expected, my left surround is quite louder than the others and it is obvious when i do a manual test tone on this speaker.
> 
> 
> After I switched a few cables to determine the cause of the problem, it seems that the Rs232 cable is the cause. As soon as I plug it in I can hear the hum noise. As soon as i remove it, the speaker backs to normal hiss sound like all the other speakers. Note that it does not matter whether or not the serial cable is connected at the other end. The noise still appears.
> 
> 
> I use Audioquest DiamondBack XLR Interconnects and the serial cable is the one that comes with the ARC.
> 
> 
> Does anyone ever had such problem?
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> -Jonathan



Swap the output cables at the back of the Anthem for Left Surround and Right Surround. Does the problem re the RS-232 move to Right Surround? If not then the problem is in the Anthem. Talk to tech support. You may have a bad output circuit on that channel. If the problem DOES move to Right Surround then the problem is external to the Anthem. Either a cable fault or something affecting that channel of your power amp. Typically, hum noise means you have a "ground loop". Try a different serial cable in case you have a short in that cable.

--Bob


----------



## bohai

Turntable Hookup - I have my Denon turntable connected to a Cambridge Audio phono preamp. I am using a MM cartridge. Playing everything thru Paradigm equipment, Parasound Halo A51 Amp. I am getting a whistling sound thru the speakers. It is just loud enough to be annoying. Note I am also having to play volume at -10 db to get listenable sound. I am set up thru my AUX inputs. What is the most common setup for using a phone thru the AUX? It seems more set up for video than audio?


Any help appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Be sure to connect the Ground wire to the ground screw on the back of the Anthem. That's an essential when using a phono-cartridge and phono-preamp. Your phono preamp may have a selector switch for your type of cartridge. Check the setting of that.

--Bob


----------



## bohai

There is a ground wire connector on the Cambridge pre-amp, is that not sufficient? My wiring is not long enough to reach the Anthem. Can I run a wired jumper to it? And pre-amp is set on MM


Thanks Bob,


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sure, ground the cartridge output to the phono-preamp, and run a ground lead from the phono pre-amp to the Anthem. You don't need anything special in the way of wire for that.

--Bob


----------



## xMEATx

Has anyone installed the new HDMI board at home? Is it difficult? Thanks


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22453056
> 
> 
> Has anyone installed the new HDMI board at home? Is it difficult? Thanks



If you have ever changed a video card in a PC, then it should be easy.

John


----------



## Thxtheater

All AVM50v owners who have experienced the audio drop out:


Please send in your system configuration to Anthem. Support is cataloging all our configurations to see if there is any correlation or pattern. If you haven't yet done so, please take a moment to help get this outstanding but stomped out.


Thanks,

Theo


----------



## Farayar

Hello All,


I installed firmware 3.09 and my D2v is unusable. The video from all my inputs flicker out since the unit is starting up. There is no audio in any of my inputs as well.


I carefully followed up Bob´s instructions on how to install the new firmware.


I reinstalled firmware 2.10 and everything was normal again. I downloaded again firmware 3.09 from Anthem website and I did the update again but it did not work.


Has anyone else experienced any issue installing firmware 3.09?


Thanks, Joe.


----------



## stanger89

For me, 3.09 seems to be more sensitive to HDMI cable issues. When I got my 50V back from the 3D upgrade (and 3.09 upgrade) I had issues with some of my sources flickering video and/or no audio (actually "flickering" audio too). I swapped out a short, monoprice HDMI cable (between my 50V and Darbee Darblet) with a longer BJC Series FE cable and all was well again. So I'd try swapping out/replacing some of your cables if you've got spares.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Farayar*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22459679
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> 
> I installed firmware 3.09 and my D2v is unusable. The video from all my inputs flicker out since the unit is starting up. There is no audio in any of my inputs as well.
> 
> 
> I carefully followed up Bob´s instructions on how to install the new firmware.
> 
> 
> I reinstalled firmware 2.10 and everything was normal again. I downloaded again firmware 3.09 from Anthem website and I did the update again but it did not work.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced any issue installing firmware 3.09?
> 
> 
> Thanks, Joe.



If you've got any other electronics in the HDMI path -- switches, splitters, Darbee, etc. -- temporarily remove them and see if the problems go away.


See if you can get the internally generated graphics to display -- e.g., select an input that is NOT CONNECTED to anything, and then press and hold the "7" button to bring up the Video Source Adjust Menu. If that works, then the problem is likely on the Source equipment side. If it doesn't work then the problem is likely on the Display side.


Since all your Sources are failing, odds are the problem is on the Display side. Double check your HDMI plugs are properly inserted.


Reset Factory Defaults and see if you get good video from the internally generated stuff (Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu). If so, Manually re-enter your video output configuration settings to see when the problem develops. If it doesn't, then manually enter settings for one Source device. Again, you are looking for what settings make it fail. If NONE of them do, then perhaps your Saved settings are corrupted. Continue to re-enter the rest of your settings Manually -- a chore to be sure, but if it works then that's what you need. Save settings after getting them all entered to replace whatever was corrupted.


In the alternative, call Anthem Tech Support and let them walk you through diagnosing this.

--Bob


----------



## Farayar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22459748
> 
> 
> For me, 3.09 seems to be more sensitive to HDMI cable issues. When I got my 50V back from the 3D upgrade (and 3.09 upgrade) I had issues with some of my sources flickering video and/or no audio (actually "flickering" audio too). I swapped out a short, monoprice HDMI cable (between my 50V and Darbee Darblet) with a longer BJC Series FE cable and all was well again. So I'd try swapping out/replacing some of your cables if you've got spares.



Thanks for your replay stanger89. I this time I do no have any spare HDMI cable, thus I will try others possibilities first, but I will keep in mind your suggestion in case everything else fails.










Joe.


----------



## Farayar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22460522
> 
> 
> If you've got any other electronics in the HDMI path -- switches, splitters, Darbee, etc. -- temporarily remove them and see if the problems go away.
> 
> See if you can get the internally generated graphics to display -- e.g., select an input that is NOT CONNECTED to anything, and then press and hold the "7" button to bring up the Video Source Adjust Menu. If that works, then the problem is likely on the Source equipment side. If it doesn't work then the problem is likely on the Display side.
> 
> Since all your Sources are failing, odds are the problem is on the Display side. Double check your HDMI plugs are properly inserted.
> 
> Reset Factory Defaults and see if you get good video from the internally generated stuff (Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu). If so, Manually re-enter your video output configuration settings to see when the problem develops. If it doesn't, then manually enter settings for one Source device. Again, you are looking for what settings make it fail. If NONE of them do, then perhaps your Saved settings are corrupted. Continue to re-enter the rest of your settings Manually -- a chore to be sure, but if it works then that's what you need. Save settings after getting them all entered to replace whatever was corrupted.
> 
> In the alternative, call Anthem Tech Support and let them walk you through diagnosing this.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I do not have any other electronics in the HDMI path. I did what you suggested and I could not get the internally generated graphics to display. Also, all the HDMI plugs are properly inserted.


I also reset the factory defaults but it did not fix the problem. I manually re-enter my video output parameters and played with them but with no results.


I guess I will have to call Anthem Tech Support to see if they can help.


Do you know if they work on Saturday?


Regards, Joe.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Farayar*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22461115
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I do not have any other electronics in the HDMI path. I did what you suggested and I could not get the internally generated graphics to display. Also, all the HDMI plugs are properly inserted.
> 
> I also reset the factory defaults but it did not fix the problem. I manually re-enter my video output parameters and played with them but with no results.
> 
> I guess I will have to call Anthem Tech Support to see if they can help.
> 
> Do you know if they work on Saturday?
> 
> Regards, Joe.



I don't think they work on Saturday and Monday will also be a holiday here in Canada.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Farayar*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22461115
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I do not have any other electronics in the HDMI path. I did what you suggested and I could not get the internally generated graphics to display. Also, all the HDMI plugs are properly inserted.
> 
> I also reset the factory defaults but it did not fix the problem. I manually re-enter my video output parameters and played with them but with no results.
> 
> I guess I will have to call Anthem Tech Support to see if they can help.
> 
> Do you know if they work on Saturday?
> 
> Regards, Joe.



Try making sure your video output is set to 8 bit and not 10 or 12 bit, that would reduce the bandwidth requirements, but it kind of sounds like you may need a new/better/different HDMI cable to your display.


----------



## dbox1080p

Hi guys


I purchased the ARC upgrade for my avm and have been very happy and after adding anthem amplification last week I could not be more happy. I would like to move up the ladder and have a question thats burning in my mind that you guys have the expertise to extinguish. What are the differences in audio only between an Anthem d2 with arc vs an anthem d1 upgraded to d2 spec with arc?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38500_100#post_22462394
> 
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> I purchased the ARC upgrade for my avm and have been very happy and after adding anthem amplification last week I could not be more happy. I would like to move up the ladder and have a question thats burning in my mind that you guys have the expertise to extinguish. What are the differences in audio only between an Anthem d2 with arc vs an anthem d1 upgraded to d2 spec with arc?


*NONE*


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22462394
> 
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> I purchased the ARC upgrade for my avm and have been very happy and after adding anthem amplification last week I could not be more happy. I would like to move up the ladder and have a question thats burning in my mind that you guys have the expertise to extinguish. What are the differences in audio only between an Anthem d2 with arc vs an anthem d1 upgraded to d2 spec with arc?



None. A D1 upgraded to a D2 (sometimes called a D1HD) adds the video processing option. No changes are made to any audio sections.


----------



## dbox1080p

Great news guys thanks alot. I have pulled the trigger on the upgraded d1 so now I just have to sit and wait for it to be sent out. If I asked what will I benefit in audio with a d2 compared to and avm50 what answer would you give me ?


----------



## bluemark81

I would like to hear from anyone else using Bell's fiberop PVR with their D2v. I would like to know how you have it connected: HDMI or component + toslink. I have been having audio drops and after trying all the suggestions Anthem tech support has suggested, I'm kind of at a loss. Anthem is suggesting sending the D2v in for repairs, but I'm not convinced its not an issue with my fiberop as I don't experience the same issue with my other sources; apple tv, oppo blu-ray Thanks


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:


I'm having an issue with 3D playback. I have the Anthem set to Through of course but the video cuts on and off intermittently. Also the settings menu is a pinkish blue. Any ideas ? Just HDMI? My cable is a high speed HDMI from Monoprice. Thanks


----------



## porschetech

does anyone know where i can get an ARC board from for my avm50? i have the complete ARC kit and anthem told me that the board is no longer avail from them.


thanks in advance


----------



## bohai

Phono Setup - I have my phono preamp set thru AUX. I would like to get true 2 channel stereo. What settings should I use?


----------



## JGauthier

Bob,

I have done what you recommended. Once I swapped the XLR cables in the Anthem, the hum noise disappeared. It did not move. Then I swapped back the cables in their correct position and everything is ok, no hum noise at all. I then, recalibrated with ARC and the result is really different. The channels level is almost even on all channels and I could even notice that the left channel test tone was louder than when I had the problem ( I guess this was the reason why the level was set to +12 DB from the other channels).


Here are new developments now:


I watched a movie tonight (the serial cable was not plugged-in anymore). Once done with the movie, I shutdown the processor and what do I hear, the left surround does its hum thing again! I have done the cables swap again and the hum disappears. I am afraid this problem will come back again







Curiously, the RS-232 cable does not seem to be the cause, although I am sure that whenever I plugged it in last time, the hum noise appeared.


Any idea?


In the meantime, I'll try swapping the XLR cables in the Anthem AND amplifier for some time and see if the problem reappears on a different channel. If that is the case, I am guessing that this is a XLR cable problem what do you think?


thank you

-Jonathan


----------



## AVfile

Jonathan,

Do you have a multi-meter or something you could use to 'buzz out' each pin of the XLR cable? There could be a loose or bad solder joint in one of the wires which gets made or broken each time you touch it.


----------



## sherr127

hi there,

i'm thinking of adding amplifier to my ht set up,i'm using onkyo 3009 and 5 paradigm studio speakers with 2 subs.I'm 95% movie 5% concert.Now i'm a bit bit confused,should i take 5 channel amp or 3 channel and let the avr push for surround?Can i feel a difference in sound quality between pva and mca series?Thanks in advance..


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JGauthier*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22467165
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I have done what you recommended. Once I swapped the XLR cables in the Anthem, the hum noise disappeared. It did not move. Then I swapped back the cables in their correct position and everything is ok, no hum noise at all. I then, recalibrated with ARC and the result is really different. The channels level is almost even on all channels and I could even notice that the left channel test tone was louder than when I had the problem ( I guess this was the reason why the level was set to +12 DB from the other channels).
> 
> 
> Here are new developments now:
> 
> 
> I watched a movie tonight (the serial cable was not plugged-in anymore). Once done with the movie, I shutdown the processor and what do I hear, the left surround does its hum thing again! I have done the cables swap again and the hum disappears. I am afraid this problem will come back again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curiously, the RS-232 cable does not seem to be the cause, although I am sure that whenever I plugged it in last time, the hum noise appeared.
> 
> 
> Any idea?
> 
> 
> In the meantime, I'll try swapping the XLR cables in the Anthem AND amplifier for some time and see if the problem reappears on a different channel. If that is the case, I am guessing that this is a XLR cable problem what do you think?
> 
> 
> thank you
> 
> -Jonathan



Sounds to me like you either have a faulty cable or a faulty socket. The act of moving the plugs is getting you a good connection again, but then due to cable sag or vibration or whatever, the connection is failing again. This would happen due to a "cold solder joint" or an internal break -- i.e., a conductor wire has a break inside its insulating sheath and the act of moving the cable is opening and closing that break.


Obviously the next step here is to replace the XLR cables. I wouldn't even try testing the cables with a meter since it appears the problem is intermittent and goes away when the cable are physically moved.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sherr127*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22467458
> 
> 
> hi there,
> 
> i'm thinking of adding amplifier to my ht set up,i'm using onkyo 3009 and 5 paradigm studio speakers with 2 subs.I'm 95% movie 5% concert.Now i'm a bit bit confused,should i take 5 channel amp or 3 channel and let the avr push for surround?Can i feel a difference in sound quality between pva and mca series?Thanks in advance..



You should probably ask this in one of the amplifier threads -- or the Onkyo thread I suppose.


But my personal take on this is that if you can hear an improvement going to an external amp for the fronts then you should DEFINITELY get a 5 channel amp so the surrounds get the benefit as well. Modern movie tracks put significant, full frequency range content into the surrounds.


Depending on your budget, now might also be the time to replace the Onkyo altogether by getting a preamp-processor (like the D2v to mention a nice example) as well as the multi-channel power amp. In any event, getting the 5 (or 7) channel amp now will make it easier for to make the jump to a pre-pro later.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22466275
> 
> 
> Phono Setup - I have my phono preamp set thru AUX. I would like to get true 2 channel stereo. What settings should I use?



Simple. Set the Audio Surround Mode to Stereo. You can do this on the fly using Mode button and Up/Down Arrows, or you can go into Setup > Mode Presets for that Source and set the default surround mode to Stereo whenever 2.0 content is playing on that Source (which will be all the time since you are using a stereo RCA pair as the Audio Input for that Source).


Your ARC solution will be in effect (assuming you have Room EQ ON in that Source, as you should). That means that you will get output on Left Front / Right Front and Subwoofer according to the bass management set up for you by ARC. Center and the Surrounds will be silent.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22465553
> 
> 
> does anyone know where i can get an ARC board from for my avm50? i have the complete ARC kit and anthem told me that the board is no longer avail from them.
> 
> 
> thanks in advance



I think you are out of luck. Anyone who has the ARC board for an AVM 50 would be foolhardy to sell it separate from the AVM 50. How on earth did you get an ARC kit for an AVM 50 without the board in the first place? Did you buy it from some other seller? Are you sure you DON'T have the ARC board in that AVM 50 already?


Your best bet at this point may be to try to sell that AVM 50 and buy a replacement with ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22465481
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having an issue with 3D playback. I have the Anthem set to Through of course but the video cuts on and off intermittently. Also the settings menu is a pinkish blue. Any ideas ? Just HDMI? My cable is a high speed HDMI from Monoprice. Thanks
Click to expand...


For both your 3D Source and the Anthem, set an explicit output color space choice (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of using Auto. That simplifies the HDMI handshake.


Also try turning off Deep Color output in your Source and set the Anthem to 8-bt video output. If that fixes the problem, then that suggests you may need to upgrade your HDMI cables. HDMI is an end to end protocol so the problem could bet in the cables on either side of the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## sherr127




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22467723
> 
> 
> You should probably ask this in one of the amplifier threads -- or the Onkyo thread I suppose.
> 
> But my personal take on this is that if you can hear an improvement going to an external amp for the fronts then you should DEFINITELY get a 5 channel amp so the surrounds get the benefit as well. Modern movie tracks put significant, full frequency range content into the surrounds.
> 
> Depending on your budget, now might also be the time to replace the Onkyo altogether by getting a preamp-processor (like the D2v to mention a nice example) as well as the multi-channel power amp. In any event, getting the 5 (or 7) channel amp now will make it easier for to make the jump to a pre-pro later.
> 
> --Bob



thanks bob,i've asking here bcos i'm thinking of adding anthem amplifier,either pva 5 or mca 50?can i feel the difference in sound quality?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't know enough about your Onkyo to give you any useful comparison, but I know that the Anthem amps have a very good reputation.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22466275
> 
> 
> Phono Setup - I have my phono preamp set thru AUX. I would like to get true 2 channel stereo. What settings should I use?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22467731
> 
> 
> Simple. Set the Audio Surround Mode to Stereo. You can do this on the fly using Mode button and Up/Down Arrows, or you can go into Setup > Mode Presets for that Source and set the default surround mode to Stereo whenever 2.0 content is playing on that Source (which will be all the time since you are using a stereo RCA pair as the Audio Input for that Source).
> 
> Your ARC solution will be in effect (assuming you have Room EQ ON in that Source, as you should). That means that you will get output on Left Front / Right Front and Subwoofer according to the bass management set up for you by ARC. Center and the Surrounds will be silent.
> 
> --Bob



Just to add to what Bob said--


For true stereo, with no additional processing done by the Anthem, set the 'source setup' for 'aux' to 'analog dir'. This will send the signal thru unprocessed-- No ARC. The Anthem will only control volume.


For LF/RF/Sub using ARC, set the aux source to 'analog DSP' and make sure that 'room eq' is 'on'. This is Bob's suggestion (and mine) since it allows ARC to do its magic. This is especially beneficial if you do not have full range speakers.


If you have full range fronts you can run a separate 'movie' and 'music' ARC, using all your speakers and sub for 'movie', but using only your fronts for the 'music' solution. This will allow ARC to correct any problems your room may be causing, but sending just srereo to your fronts. You will need to set that source to 'analog dsp', 'room eq' on, and make sure you choose 'music' for it. Also choose 'stereo' for your default mode choice for the 'aux' source.


I would also suggest going into the 'analog input levels' section of the Anthem setup to adjust the 'aux' phono level if necessary, unless you have already done this.


Tom


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22467739
> 
> 
> For both your 3D Source and the Anthem, set an explicit output color space choice (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of using Auto. That simplifies the HDMI handshake.
> 
> Also try turning off Deep Color output in your Source and set the Anthem to 8-bt video output. If that fixes the problem, then that suggests you may need to upgrade your HDMI cables. HDMI is an end to end protocol so the problem could bet in the cables on either side of the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks,, Bob!


----------



## drmabuse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22453056
> 
> 
> Has anyone installed the new HDMI board at home? Is it difficult? Thanks



I did - other than being freaked out about opening my D2v it went without incident. Was not difficult.


----------



## jerbob




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38430#post_22410968
> 
> 
> All AVM50v owners who have experienced the audio bug:
> 
> I'd like to get us all together to try and figure this issue out and get [email protected] some data to help them out. My unit was sent up to Canada some time ago and came back clean. So, there's some combination somewhere that must be causing this issue on some units and not others.
> 
> I'm willing to take the lead and try and marshall us all together to get this bug squashed. I'd appreciate it if Nick, you could provide us with a list of questions you'd like us to document for you.
> 
> I'm thinking that those of us having experienced the problem should write down.
> 
> 1) Our software rev
> 
> 2) Whether or not we have 3D upgrade
> 
> 3) Peripherals connected to the AVM50v
> 
> 4) Which HDMI ports those peripherals are connected to
> 
> 5) Whether or not we power them on or off when the AVM50v is turned on
> 
> 6) If we are triggering any external amps or manually turning them on
> 
> 7) Anything else???
> 
> Then, when we experience the issue, we should carefully note some diagnostic data like:
> 
> 1) Identify which HDMI port you were switched to.
> 
> 2) Whether you initiated power via remote or the main power button or by depressing one of the source buttons.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Theo



Experienced the low volume bug again last night, trying to watch a rental DVD (not BD) of "A Lonely Place To Die". I was using My Oppo BDP 93 as a source through HDMI1. Only restarting my 50v would correct the problem.


I have watched 14 movies, through 2 players most of them BD but a couple of them were DVDs since I last had this problem. I also streamed 2 movies from Vudu and went through 2 sessions of streaming HD music without a problem.


I reported all of the specifics to Anthem today via email.


----------



## bluemark81

Ok, more issues: Due to the audio drops I was experiencing with by Bell fiberop DVR, I've tried switching from component + toslink to HDMI but now I get nothing but static. If I turn it off and back on or switch inputs, it might stop, but not always. Sometimes if it is fine and I switch inputs and then go back to the TV, it starts with the static again. I've tried switching cables as well as HDMI inputs on the D2v, but I still get the same static with absolutely no verbal audio. Looks like I will be switching back to component + toslink. Lesser of the evils.


----------



## dbox1080p

I purchased the upgrade from my dealer and he said it was the last one and was lucky to get it. It cost $800 so your best bet is to sell the pre and ark mic then buy a pre with arc


----------



## bluemark81

The latest in the saga; everything seems to be going to hell in a handbasket. Because of the static issue, I switched back to toslink + component and I now get no picture, but get a message saying "your tv cannot display this video service over HDMI. Monitor does not support HDCP.(H1001)". This is a new first and appears to be a bell message. Seems odd as this is the way I've had it connected all along because of the various HDMI issues. My display is a Pioneer Elite Pro151. I've tried switching one of my other bell receivers out for the DVR and absolutely no issues, nor do I have issues with the DVR connected elsewhere. So, I'm not sure if it is the D2v or the DVR that is creating the issue or perhaps a compatibility issue between the two.


So, I'm currently running my video using HDMI and audio using toslink. Seems odd to have to do it this way but it is working for the meantime. I suspect I will still have the odd audio drop though.


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22467736
> 
> 
> I think you are out of luck. Anyone who has the ARC board for an AVM 50 would be foolhardy to sell it separate from the AVM 50. How on earth did you get an ARC kit for an AVM 50 without the board in the first place? Did you buy it from some other seller? Are you sure you DON'T have the ARC board in that AVM 50 already?
> 
> Your best bet at this point may be to try to sell that AVM 50 and buy a replacement with ARC.
> 
> --Bob


I actually bought the ARC kit (new, never used from a fellow forum member). I called anthem and they said that the serial number + v1.33 = ARC ready. When I power it up it doesn't display ARC. So without opening it up, would I assume its not installed?


I'm actually thinking about selling it now


----------



## dbox1080p

Had the same problem when I bought my anthem avm. Seller said it had arc but no mic, when I came here I was informed that if it does not say arc on boot up then the board is not installed and it is not ready


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38610#post_22470008
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38580#post_22467736
> 
> 
> I think you are out of luck. Anyone who has the ARC board for an AVM 50 would be foolhardy to sell it separate from the AVM 50. How on earth did you get an ARC kit for an AVM 50 without the board in the first place? Did you buy it from some other seller? Are you sure you DON'T have the ARC board in that AVM 50 already?
> 
> Your best bet at this point may be to try to sell that AVM 50 and buy a replacement with ARC.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> I actually bought the ARC kit (new, never used from a fellow forum member). I called anthem and they said that the serial number + v1.33 = ARC ready. When I power it up it doesn't display ARC. So without opening it up, would I assume its not installed?
> 
> 
> I'm actually thinking about selling it now
Click to expand...


There are (or rather were) two ARC kits. The normal version has the mic, mic stand, cable and software, and is for use with Anthem processors that already have ARC-capable hardware installed. It retails for about $400. The other, which is no longer available, also included the replacement DSP processor board to upgrade an AVM 50 to an AVM 50/ARC. It retailed for about $800.


If your unit does not show AVM 50/ARC in the Front Panel while it powers up, then EITHER the upgrade board was never installed in it OR whoever put that upgrade board in there forgot that they also have to RE-install the V1.33 firmware afterwards to initialize it.


Odds are your unit does not actually have that hardware upgrade installed -- i.e. you did not get what you thought you were purchasing. In which case you are likely out of luck, because there's little chance you'll find an AVM 50 ARC Upgrade board available for sale all by itself.


But there is a small chance that if you re-install the V1.33 firmware the upgrade board will come to life.


(All new units are now sold with ARC-capable hardware and the ARC mic + software kit included. So nothing extra to buy.)

--Bob


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38610#post_22470430
> 
> 
> There are (or rather were) two ARC kits. The normal version has the mic, mic stand, cable and software, and is for use with Anthem processors that already have ARC-capable hardware installed. It retails for about $400. The other, which is no longer available, also included the replacement DSP processor board to upgrade an AVM 50 to an AVM 50/ARC. It retailed for about $800.
> 
> If your unit does not show AVM 50/ARC in the Front Panel while it powers up, then EITHER the upgrade board was never installed in it OR whoever put that upgrade board in there forgot that they also have to RE-install the V1.33 firmware afterwards to initialize it.
> 
> Odds are your unit does not actually have that hardware upgrade installed -- i.e. you did not get what you thought you were purchasing. In which case you are likely out of luck, because there's little chance you'll find an AVM 50 ARC Upgrade board available for sale all by itself.
> 
> But there is a small chance that if you re-install the V1.33 firmware the upgrade board will come to life.
> 
> (All new units are now sold with ARC-capable hardware and the ARC mic + software kit included. So nothing extra to buy.)
> 
> --Bob



It has a red board.......does that help?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38610#post_22470782
> 
> 
> It has a red board.......does that help?



That's the video board. Reinstall the firmware and see if the display then shows ARC.

John


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38610#post_22471075
> 
> 
> That's the video board. Reinstall the firmware and see if the display then shows ARC.
> 
> John



Thanks, I'll do what you and bob both suggested


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38610#post_22468883
> 
> 
> Experienced the low volume bug again last night, trying to watch a rental DVD (not BD) of "A Lonely Place To Die". I was using My Oppo BDP 93 as a source through HDMI1. Only restarting my 50v would correct the problem.
> 
> I have watched 14 movies, through 2 players most of them BD but a couple of them were DVDs since I last had this problem. I also streamed 2 movies from Vudu and went through 2 sessions of streaming HD music without a problem.
> 
> I reported all of the specifics to Anthem today via email.



Thanks for expanding Tech Support's knowledge-base on this!


----------



## wingnut4772

Thanks. I have all the deep color settings in the Oppo to off now and everything seems to be working ok. I tried them on even with a brand spanking new 1.4 HDMI with Ethernet and I got no picture on my Sharp Elite. Not sure what is going on there. Anthem is set to " Through".


My picture is still going off and on now with my PS3 setting. I tried the same tricks - just setting to RGB instead of Auto but to no avail. I do notice that when I go in to the Anthem's Settings menu on this input that the Settings screen is a pinkish - blue. Actually, I get that ocasionally on several inputs. What is that?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You are still having HDMI handshake problems. Sounds like your Sharp does not like Deep Color video format. Try turning 1080p/24 OFF as some displays act differently regarding Deep Color when it is on.


The PS3 provides no mechanism to disable its Deep Color output. You may not be able to use it in Through with that display. The shocking pink video is another form of handshake error -- confusion between the two ends of the cable as to whether RGB or YCbCr video format is in use. The PS3 used RGB for its user interface and, as usually set, uses YCbCr when playing movies.


The usual reason for having problems with Deep Color is that you have something else in the HDMI path which isn't handling the higher bandwidth properly. This could be a port saver short HDMI cable or other HDMI adapter, an HDMI switch, wall plates between the Anthem and the display, running the HDMI through some sort of surge protector, Darblet, another video processor, ANYTHING.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38610#post_22476530
> 
> 
> You are still having HDMI handshake problems. Sounds like your Sharp does not like Deep Color video format. Try turning 1080p/24 OFF as some displays act differently regarding Deep Color when it is on.
> 
> The PS3 provides no mechanism to disable its Deep Color output. You may not be able to use it in Through with that display. The shocking pink video is another form of handshake error -- confusion between the two ends of the cable as to whether RGB or YCbCr video format is in use. The PS3 used RGB for its user interface and, as usually set, uses YCbCr when playing movies.
> 
> The usual reason for having problems with Deep Color is that you have something else in the HDMI path which isn't handling the higher bandwidth properly. This could be a port saver short HDMI cable or other HDMI adapter, an HDMI switch, wall plates between the Anthem and the display, running the HDMI through some sort of surge protector, Darblet, another video processor, ANYTHING.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. I don't have anything additional. Just the high speed Monoprice cable from the Anthem to the Elite. I do have an older Monster HDMI ( not high speed) from the PS3 to the Anthem, however, 3D still works so I guessi it's not too antiquated. There actually is a setting to disable deep color on the PS3 and that fixed the video on off problems but I still get the pink settings menu issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I was just about to come back and correct that comment. Yes, Sony added a Deep Color OFF setting in some recent firmware update for the PS3.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Can anyone tell me if Anthems software will work with a Mac?


----------



## Tank_PD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38610#post_22478881
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me if Anthems software will work with a Mac?



It does not. You can run it under Parallels, but you will still need a Windows license.


----------



## veerapaneni

can anyone tell me why it dips after 5khz ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ There are several possible explanations:


1) High frequency speaker output is way more directional than bass or mid-range. The drop off may be partially due to the pointing of the speakers. In particular, if the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, pay particularly attention to their vertical pointing as speakers typically have broader dispersal for high frequencies in the horizontal plane than in the vertical.


2) The drop off may reflect decreased mic sensitivity to the high frequencies. This can be due to environmental factors such as room humidity.


3) Improper choice or installation of the speaker grill can also attenuate high frequencies.


Based on the chart for Left Front it looks to me like your mic is getting good data up to about 15KHz. I wouldn't worry at all about the drop off above that.


However for the other three speakers, you might want to recheck their pointing looking for improved Measured results between 5KHz and 15KHz, and if that doesn't fix it you might want to try raising Max EQ Frequency in the ARC Targets to tell it it is OK to apply correction further up than the default 5KHz. I'd probably try something like 12KHz and see how the charts look and how it sounds to you when you listen to it.


The charts don't suggest to me that you have a fault in any of the speakers, but it never hurts to play some stereo content with treble in Mono All audio surround mode and then go around and put your ear up close to the tweeter in each speaker and make sure they are all firing.


Note that you can use the Quick Measure Tool in ARC to get some realtime feedback as to what's happening while you adjust speaker pointing.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


About the D2v upgrade kit, I think there should be some work done on the PR side.

If I read the latest 3 months posts in this discussion forum I see that things do not run as smoothly as expected.

I have performed the upgrade on my D2v lately and I have plenty of problems.


I think that those like me that are encountering problems after an upgrade do not treat them as those that have just jumped into the train buying a new D2v 3D.


What I mean is that for those that upgraded the only change was that new board and the firmware. They kept all the rest unchanged like cables and connections. 

So when they are stuck with a problem they tend to incriminate the board or the firmware. 


But we know that some things as changed such as a higher sensitivity to the kind of cables, the settings such as Auto vs. Ycbcr 4:4:4, and maybe other stuff.


What I wish is that we got some official list of recommendation from Anthem and/or the local gurus i.e Bob, Jay about what should be done on an existing system after the  upgrade in order to make it run smoothly. 


(are there any untold requirements for that new board and firmware?)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Not in my case. I've got very specific requirements for output to my display, and nothing in the upgrade altered that.


I use defaults for the Inputs from my Sources, and nothing in the upgrade altered that. I've tested HDMI Inputs (using both new and old sockets), Component Inputs, and S-video Inputs.


The only unresolved bug I have related to the video path is that the last firmware prior to the hardware upgrade managed to work around some strangeness in the S-video input from my Velodyne DD series subwoofer and the new firmware breaks that.


There were a ton of bugs early in the testing process (no surprise there), but I'm happy to say Anthem kept at it until it fixed them. Indeed some of those bugs almost certainly existed in the old hardware and old firmware and just got re-highlighted as part of this new firmware work for the new hardware.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89

Yeah, but like xtrips, I definitely had things (HDMI handshaking) stop working with no other changes than the board and the 3.09 upgrade that worked fine in the 2.11 firmware.


----------



## jayray

I too have had no problems with the upgrade regardless of the firmware used but that was with limited use due to circumstances. Switching sources is much faster and stable and the sound with 3.09 has never been better.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38610#post_22480742
> 
> 
> Yeah, but like xtrips, I definitely had things (HDMI handshaking) stop working with no other changes than the board and the 3.09 upgrade that worked fine in the 2.11 firmware.



Well you know at least one other thing changed. You had to pull the HDMI plugs to make the hardware change. So they've been pulled and re-inserted. Sometimes with HDMI, that's all it takes to reveal cabling problems -- i.e., due to the mechanical fit of plugs in sockets, or the difference in cable drape tugging the plugs to a different degree.

--Bob


----------



## dbox1080p

Does Anthem still offer upgrades to a D1 HD to D2v status ?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38610#post_22482134
> 
> 
> Does Anthem still offer upgrades to a D1 HD to D2v status ?



I don't think so.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38610#post_22482134
> 
> 
> Does Anthem still offer upgrades to a D1 HD to D2v status ?



There was never an actual upgrade as too much of the cost of the unit would have to be replaced. Instead there was a factory sponsored trade-in program for a while. I.e., you got a new D2v at a reduced price, not a modified D1 HD. That program no longer exists.


You may still be able to work some sort of trade-in deal with your dealer, or of course you could sell your unit yourself, as on Audiogon.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38610#post_22480441
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> About the D2v upgrade kit, I think there should be some work done on the PR side.
> 
> If I read the latest 3 months posts in this discussion forum I see that things do not run as smoothly as expected.
> 
> I have performed the upgrade on my D2v lately and I have plenty of problems.
> 
> I think that those like me that are encountering problems after an upgrade do not treat them as those that have just jumped into the train buying a new D2v 3D.
> 
> What I mean is that for those that upgraded the only change was that new board and the firmware. They kept all the rest unchanged like cables and connections.
> 
> So when they are stuck with a problem they tend to incriminate the board or the firmware.
> 
> But we know that some things as changed such as a higher sensitivity to the kind of cables, the settings such as Auto vs. Ycbcr 4:4:4, and maybe other stuff.
> 
> What I wish is that we got some official list of recommendation from Anthem and/or the local gurus i.e Bob, Jay about what should be done on an existing system after the  upgrade in order to make it run smoothly.
> 
> (are there any untold requirements for that new board and firmware?)



Lovely isn't it? Be sure to let us know if re-seating the cables works for you.


----------



## porschetech

Can anyone tell me why a D2 costs so much more than the AVM50? Both new (at the time) and used prices. D2's seem to be commanding a better resale value. 24/192 upsampling seems like an expensive and if not only difference?


I also read that all D2's were ARC ready? Where's Bob when ya need him?











One other thing. Is the anthem A5 amp a glorified version of the MCA50?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

D2 hardware was ARC-capable from the start, even before ARC first shipped. When ARC came out it was a $400 software (plus mic, etc.) upgrade.


The expectation was that ARC would never appear on the AVM 50 due to hardware limitations, but Anthem found a way to swap out a portion of the AVM 50 hardware and change that. The upgrade to do that and add the ARC kit made an AVM 50/ARC and cost $800. Late in their life all D2 units were sold bundled with ARC and all AVM 50 units were sold with the upgrade preinstalled (so AVM 50/ARC) and also bundled with ARC.


The upshot is that in the used market for a D2 or AVM 50 you need to discover whether they have ARC already or not. In the case of a D2 without ARC you can buy the ARC kit today -- still for about $400 I believe. In the case of an AVM 50 without ARC you are likely out of luck as the upgrade board is no longer in stock.


Meanwhile the new D2v and AVM 50v were ALL sold, from the get go, bundled with ARC.


Anthem has a comparison chart available here:

http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-statement/processor/d-2v/literature 


It lists differences between the AVM 50, the AVM 50v, and the D2v.


Despite the differences the D2v is disproportionately more expensive. This is normal as it is in the "near exotic" class of hardware, and reaching for additional improvements is expensive.


Most recently, the 3D "pass through" upgrade is now also bundled in for any new D2v units sold.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Just an update about my earlier post. It was intended for the Anthem staff and our community here. As for me I am solving my problems with the D2v. 3D.

From my experience I can tell that the new firmware and the new board are more demanding when it comes to cables and settings in the source and in the D2v.

Whereas before you could set most of your stuff to auto, now you might encounter very weird situations such as audio drop outs, no audio, audio but no picture, very long handshaking.

Of course thos is a case by case but, I am a professional Home theater designer and acoustician so I have encountered quiet a few of these cases and every time I have to reinvent a solution.

I can understand the frustration of some customers.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ If it's intended for the Anthem staff then it should be sent directly to the Anthem staff, but I'll bite.


Do forced settings instead of auto prevent the dropouts? If yes then problem solved, case closed. This advice is as old as HDMI itself and there's no reason to stop using it.


v3.09 is working better than any previous version, and the new hardware makes switching even faster. I would not like for anyone to be discouraged from using either after reading a thing or two on message boards for which the problem has yet to be isolated, and do not accept that all systems which were working before the upgrade are suddenly malfunctioning. Our tech calls relative to kit sales simply do not support anything like that. But we do get reports and if there is an epidemic then we should have been getting more.


For example, two weeks ago we were forwarded a problem description from someone who had convinced himself that something was wrong with our latest, and we immediately replied by pointing out that v3.09 was not installed *after* the 3D board. Unstable operation is guaranteed in such a case, and a lot of time and frustration would have been saved if whoever did the upgrade followed the instructions.


During beta testing one dealer/tester observed that the upgrade worked with one of the latest 3D projectors but not another from the same series. This is nothing new - in 2006 we had a similar issue with a D2 owner who assumed that he should be having no problems with his D2-projector X combo since the starter of this thread was using the nearly identical model X+1 and having no problems. Funny thing is that in 2012 it's the same projector manufacturer in the middle of all this, and there were no similar cases between.


So, make no assumptions. The possibilities are endless and ever-changing, and so far a countless number pertained to only one system. Tech support cannot do anything without a detailed description of the problem including model numbers and cabling to go with the observations and steps to reproduce the problem. Don't worry too much about making the initial inquiry complete - we'll ask for whatever's missing. Extra info, i.e. conjectures, can delay the solution more than missing info.


----------



## studlygoorite

Well I for one am afraid to pay 1,500.00 for the upgrade. Back in 2009 when I purchased my D2v I removed my iScan VP50 Pro and my Denon 3808c and added the D2v only to encounter my first HDMI Handshake issues ever, no picture, picture but no sound, no sound, all pink screen etc. I was informed on what to have my settings at and to change cables, I did that and nothing changed. I re-modeled my Theater Room to have a shorter HDMI run and that changed from 50' to 25' and still did not fix my issues. I patiently waited for a firmware that would fix my issues and behold it was too late to take my D2v back but I still had faith. Three years and several firmware upgrades later firmware 3.09 rolled out and my issues even got worse as I emailed support I was now getting an all pink screen everytime I went into and out of the set up screen and when I switched inputs that included my satellite dish receivers, once again the settings that I should be using were reafirmed and it was suggested I try yet another HDMI Cable. I have since gone back to firmware 2.10 as it is the most stable for me. I just installed my new Blue Jeans Cable and am about to try out 3.09 again as the last one I tried was just before the final version. If I still have problems I can go back to 2.10 but what if I pay the 1,500.00 for the upgrade and get a pink screen everytime I switch inputs or go into and out of the set up screen, I doubt I can get my money back and probably will not be able to fall back to 2.10.


----------



## gerard1meehan

My 3d board on my D2v was installed some time ago and I have not experienced any issues. I only get the low volume bug every so often.


Could not be happier.


I would note that I do not have anything set to “auto” in the way of my video. But to be fair I have also spent a pretty penny on my cables, snake oil or not


System specs:


D2v3D (connected to TV via Audioquest 20ft HDMI-3)

Oppo BD 83 Nuforce (connected via Audioquest coffee 6ft HDMI)

Direct TV box (connected vis 6ft Monster M1000 6ft HDMI)

Sonos music server (connected via Audioquest eagle 6ft digital coax)


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Studlygoorite, I realize this is starting from square 1, but just trying to help. By pink screen are you referring to a pink-tinted screen? There are a few different causes for that, usually involving a display that thinks it's receiving RGB when it's actually 422, but the odd thing is that the issue has been plaguing your system for so long. Does it happen each time you switch to any input or exit the menu to any input? If not, then when and how often? Same projector all along?


This is a case where the usual advice is to break the system down to a basic one - D2v , TV (a different one if possible, though not right away), and an average-length cable known to be reliable. The outcome determines the next step. If your dealer has a 3D unit on demo and will let you try it at home, that would also be nice.


There are similarities here with dmusoke's issue, but only up to a point. In his case, the screen turns pink when exiting the setup menu and returning to the Moxi DVR (HDMI for video, HDMI or optical for audio) or to an audio-only HDMI input which has Scaler In disabled and uses the Oppo 95. We tried this with our Oppo 93 and could not reproduce the problem, though we do not have the same brand TV at hand. It's not the end of the story though - we're still experimenting based on new information that dmusoke recently provided in response to questions from tech support.


I am not aware of any other similar reports, and would also like to point out that v3.09 has been tested and certified by HDMI (this includes HDCP certification), which means we aren't doing anything out of the ordinary or are alone with random interoperability issues. When issues do appear we do everything we can to fix them based on the info provided to tech support. Anthem, which for licensing is listed as Paradigm, has been an HDMI adopter since spring of 2004, so we've been at this since 2 years before the first D2 was sold.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22484500
> 
> 
> My 3d board on my D2v was installed some time ago and I have not experienced any issues. I only get the low volume bug every so often.



Stop press... low volume with D2v?!


I hope you've sent this info to tech support. So far we've been focusing on AVM 50v because that's where all the reports that I've seen came from.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22484754
> 
> 
> Studlygoorite, I realize this is starting from square 1, but just trying to help. By pink screen are you referring to a pink-tinted screen? There are a few different causes for that, usually involving a display that thinks it's receiving RGB when it's actually 422, but the odd thing is that the issue has been plaguing your system for so long. Does it happen each time you switch to any input or exit the menu to any input? If not, then when and how often? Same projector all along?
> 
> This is a case where the usual advice is to break the system down to a basic one - D2v , TV (a different one if possible, though not right away), and an average-length cable known to be reliable. The outcome determines the next step. If your dealer has a 3D unit on demo and will let you try it at home, that would also be nice.
> 
> There are similarities here with dmusoke's issue, but only up to a point. In his case, the screen turns pink when exiting the setup menu and returning to the Moxi DVR (HDMI for video, HDMI or optical for audio) or to an audio-only HDMI input which has Scaler In disabled and uses the Oppo 95. We tried this with our Oppo 93 and could not reproduce the problem, though we do not have the same brand TV at hand. It's not the end of the story though - we're still experimenting based on new information that dmusoke recently provided in response to questions from tech support.
> 
> I am not aware of any other similar reports, and would also like to point out that v3.09 has been tested and certified by HDMI (this includes HDCP certification), which means we aren't doing anything out of the ordinary or are alone with random interoperability issues. When issues do appear we do everything we can to fix them based on the info provided to tech support. Anthem, which for licensing is listed as Paradigm, has been an HDMI adopter since spring of 2004, so we've been at this since 2 years before the first D2 was sold.



I am willing to try anything and appreciate your interest, yes it's a pink tinted screen or as I have referred to it before, the purple haze. With the second to last version of 3.09 I would get this every time I went into and then out of the set up screen only with my Shaw Direct Satellite receiver and my Direct TV Satellite receiver. I would also get it every time I switched to or from both of these devices, these devices do not have a setting for color space. I had also lost the ability to get HDMI audio from the Shaw Direct and my Xbox 360 with 3.09, switching back to 2.10 fixed all of these issues accept sometimes I do not get a picture switching between sources. For example, yesterday I was showing off my system and I switched from satellite to my Popcorn Hour C200 and I did not get a picture, I switched inputs and back again and this did not fix it, I had to use my harmony to select another activity, rebooting the Popcorn, and then back and all was good. A little embarrassing but it was a good friend. I have replaced my 3 year old projector with a brand new different model this year and this did not change anything. I disassembled everything when I remodeled to get a shorter HDMI run and had everything hooked up to a plasma on a shorter HDMI but still had problems. If there were any changes in the final release of 3.09 and the second to last, the one that I tried, then with the new HDMI Cable that I just installed I'll give the final release a try and go from there. If I still have problems can I PM you or let support know, but I think support have run out of suggestions for me? I will upgrade the firmware this weekend.


John


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ That's a tough one unless the cable has anything to do with it, and losing the audio but not video with the two sources is the most unusual part. On the other hand, unstable operation with older satellite boxes is very familiar (not saying yours are old, I merely don't know what they are yet), and as for any model Popcorn Hour the only other data I have is way out of date.


Please send the following info to tech support - best not to PM because I often don't log in for weeks at a time.


- old projector model

- new projector model

- Shaw box model

- Directv box model

- is Xbox 360 running its latest

- is there a disc player (model please) and has there been any related issue

- current HDMI cable brand, and model if known

- is problem happening with D2v output set to Studio RGB, 8 bits

- is screen pink when exiting the menu and no sources are connected

- which jacks are the sources connected to

- which jack is the projector connected to

- is the other HDMI output jack in use (if yes, please describe)

- are there any cable savers anywhere (step 1: get rid of them)

- any matrix switchers or extenders (temporarily leave them out)


Thanks


----------



## porschetech

I just picked up a A5 power amp this evening. .....That thing is heavy and built solid!


D2 should be here soon too


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22484754
> 
> 
> Studlygoorite, I realize this is starting from square 1, but just trying to help. By pink screen are you referring to a pink-tinted screen? There are a few different causes for that, usually involving a display that thinks it's receiving RGB when it's actually 422, but the odd thing is that the issue has been plaguing your system for so long. Does it happen each time you switch to any input or exit the menu to any input? If not, then when and how often? Same projector all along?
> 
> This is a case where the usual advice is to break the system down to a basic one - D2v , TV (a different one if possible, though not right away), and an average-length cable known to be reliable. The outcome determines the next step. If your dealer has a 3D unit on demo and will let you try it at home, that would also be nice.
> *There are similarities here with dmusoke's issue, but only up to a point. In his case, the screen turns pink when exiting the setup menu and returning to the Moxi DVR (HDMI for video, HDMI or optical for audio) or to an audio-only HDMI input which has Scaler In disabled and uses the Oppo 95. We tried this with our Oppo 93 and could not reproduce the problem, though we do not have the same brand TV at hand. It's not the end of the story though - we're still experimenting based on new information that dmusoke recently provided in response to questions from tech support.*
> 
> I am not aware of any other similar reports, and would also like to point out that v3.09 has been tested and certified by HDMI (this includes HDCP certification), which means we aren't doing anything out of the ordinary or are alone with random interoperability issues. When issues do appear we do everything we can to fix them based on the info provided to tech support. Anthem, which for licensing is listed as Paradigm, has been an HDMI adopter since spring of 2004, so we've been at this since 2 years before the first D2 was sold.


 

Nick ... it's nice to hear you are still working on my issue. I had almost given up on a solution since i sent you data from my Moxi tech support a couple weeks ago...


----------



## studlygoorite

Thanks Nick, will do if I still have problems after uploading 3.09 with my latest HDMI Cable.


----------



## gerard1meehan

Nick,


I have not contacted tech support. The Issue I am referring to, (making sure we are talking the same problem) is that on Blu ray media every so often the sound stage sounds muted. If I go into the menu and upload my user settings again it goes back to normal.



Very rarely happens, and when I have a chance I figured I’d reload 3.09, and re-run ARC


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Phew, that would have been a wrench in the gears because we just found the problem with the AVM 50v turn-on volume and are testing internally (beta to follow). It would have been almost impossible for the D2v to have been affected by this one because it uses a different DAC stage.


As for the Blu-ray soundstage problem, is this no surround info at all or something more subtle than that? If it returns while running v3.09 please keep a record of the surround mode, movie title and audio selection, and forward this info along with speaker configuration in effect and description of what you're hearing when the problem appears.


Please also ensure that on-the-fly level adjustments, i.e. when pressing Surrounds or Rears, are at 0 dB while the movie is playing. They can be tricky because they're memorized according to input format, so they displayed only when the same input format is playing, making them the number one cause of reports similar to yours. To clear all the adjustments at once, save user settings in the menu, load defaults, load user settings. Menu will be as it was, on-the-fly will be at defaults.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22485986
> 
> 
> Nick ... it's nice to hear you are still working on my issue. I had almost given up on a solution since i sent you data from my Moxi tech support a couple weeks ago...



Frankly we're just starting because with all due respect, that wasn't data but all the usual blind guessing and inaccurate info that leads to nowhere. Data comes from connecting one device to another and snooping in on the HDMI transactions with an analyzer, and in this case no one has done that. Things started to become clear when a certain someone took the time to sift through at least a dozen long e-mails to eliminate several contradictions within, ask questions to fill in the gaps, and come up with a concise problem description. Here it is again:


The screen turns pink when exiting the setup menu and returning to the Moxi DVR (HDMI for video, HDMI or optical for audio) or to an audio-only HDMI input which has Scaler In disabled and uses the Oppo 95.


That, your TV model number, and your Oppo settings which don't need to be copied here are everything we're working off of. This is where it really starts and everything before it was tire-spinning.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22485986
> 
> 
> Nick ... it's nice to hear you are still working on my issue. I had almost given up on a solution since i sent you data from my Moxi tech support a couple weeks ago...



I can't hold a candle to Nick and the support staff at Anthem.


However, I'm not sure if you've tried this, but I was getting the pink screen with my AppleTV and fixing this permanently was simply forcing/choosing either RGB or another color output instead of "auto". I had read similar resolutions for other devices by forcing a color space. The problem could be reproduced each time by going to the setup menu and then back to the source. There would be no pink before the setup menu then exiting the setup would always produce the pink screen.


So if you can do that, then try it and see if that works.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22487097
> 
> 
> 
> I can't hold a candle to Nick and the support staff at Anthem.
> 
> However, I'm not sure if you've tried this, but I was getting the pink screen with my AppleTV and fixing this permanently was simply forcing/choosing either RGB or another color output instead of "auto". I had read similar resolutions for other devices by forcing a color space. The problem could be reproduced each time by going to the setup menu and then back to the source. There would be no pink before the setup menu then exiting the setup would always produce the pink screen.
> 
> So if you can do that, then try it and see if that works.


My output config has always been RGB from day 1. I tried other color spaces, bit depths, sync polarities etc to no avail...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22487038
> 
> 
> 
> Frankly we're just starting because with all due respect, that wasn't data but all the usual blind guessing and inaccurate info that leads to nowhere. Data comes from connecting one device to another and snooping in on the HDMI transactions with an analyzer, and in this case no one has done that. Things started to become clear when a certain someone took the time to sift through at least a dozen long e-mails to eliminate several contradictions within, ask questions to fill in the gaps, and come up with a concise problem description. Here it is again:
> 
> The screen turns pink when exiting the setup menu and returning to the Moxi DVR (HDMI for video, HDMI or optical for audio) or to an audio-only HDMI input which has Scaler In disabled and uses the Oppo 95.
> 
> That, your TV model number, and your Oppo settings which don't need to be copied here are everything we're working off of. This is where it really starts and everything before it was tire-spinning.


Nick:

 

I sincerely apologize if  i was the source of confusion on the past when dealing with this issue. I send Andrew a copy of the report i received from my cable vendor(see below). Is this the one you are finally looking at or is it something else?

 

Greetings,

 

Below is the issue as we understand it, without knowing how everything is processing in the AVR or the TV:

 

1: The Moxi HD DVR sees a physical connection over HDMI, so sends a HDCP handshake start.

2: The AVR or TV receives it, and sends an acknowledgement, to begin the HDCP handshake.

3: The Moxi asks for Extended Device Identifier information (EDID) to negotiate compatibility, timing, etc.

4: The responding device is responding with invalid info for HDCP, or the information is becoming corrupted somehow.

 

It seems the EDID information, if it is passing through the AVR, is becoming corrupted and invalid. If the AVR is what is trying to negotiate the link with the Moxi, then it is just sending invalid information which is then discarded, and a retry begins.

 

When connected directly to the TV, the HDMI packets aren’t corrupted, and we obtain the information without issues.

 

It seems that, because video does work sometimes, this event might be triggered by opening the Settings for the AVR. From your description, it sounds like it injects video overlay on the TV so you can see its menu, even when on the input for the Moxi, which we don’t support. Some review references on that AVR also suggest it tries to manage all of the video processing, scaling, etc. as well. If this is accurate, then that might just be something that won’t work with the Moxi HD DVR. HDMI normally requires the connection to be secure between point A and point B without allowing modification of the stream, which is how we implemented it.

 

Hopefully the above will be helpful in their diagnosis of the issue. If they are doing some kind of injection or overlay or video overhead management for HDMI and can’t disable it with settings on the AVR, then you may just have to use component video instead of HDMI when going through the AVR.

 

 

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact us via phone or email

 

Thank you,

 

Moxi Customer Care

Phone: 866-969-6694

Hours: Mon-Fri 7:00AM – 6:00 PM Pacific Time

Email: [email protected]


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22485835
> 
> 
> I just picked up a A5 power amp this evening. .....That thing is heavy and built solid!
> 
> D2 should be here soon too



So your AVM-50 didn't work out? Had you even turned it on and reprogrammed the firmware to see if it had ARC?


Good choice on the Statement amp to pair with the D2. I have an A2 and A5 and really like the sound. They are just a touch warmer sounding than my reference amps costing 3x as much, which is usually a good thing!


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22486829
> 
> 
> Phew, that would have been a wrench in the gears because we just found the problem with the AVM 50v turn-on volume and are testing internally (beta to follow). It would have been almost impossible for the D2v to have been affected by this one because it uses a different DAC stage.



Great news! Now that my 50v is with Anthem it would be sweet if it came back with this bug fixed










Speaking of the DAC stage I've asked Andrew to investigate the steady hissing noise with 16/176k (Sony SACD PCM) sources, which is also unique to the 50v.


I should also mention that the lesser noise (with ears at the speakers which a few others reported here) was isolated to only appear when the BD player is turned on and the AVM is locked onto the empty (no content) digital stream. It is nice and quiet when the source is off.


----------



## porschetech

To be honest I didn't even try. A D2 came up at a price I couldn't refuse. Now I have an avm30, avm50, mca20 and an mca30 to try and sell.


I can't comment about the A5 just yet as I haven't been able to use it to any potential. But one annoying thing is that when the amp turns on via auto mode, my screen goes black for a few secs. I guess I'll have to use the trigger function


----------



## MStanic

Hey Folks,


Just got my D2v upgraded with the 3D board. I brought it in with V3.09 already running flawlessly since it was out. I took it in yesterday and picked it up today. I assume he popped in the new board and reprogrammed the firmware. I reconnected everything and made sure my source setup and all of the config is the way it should be for my setup and it appears to be. However, I get no display/signal from any source. The D2v turns on and I can navigate to the setup menus from the front display on the unit but no signal at all on my projector screen. I have the main HDMI1 connection coming from my Epson projector. I tried reloading factory defaults and then restoring my user settings but I get nothing. I'm in the process of reprogramming 3.09 firmware. In the meantime, does anybody have any ideas? Thanks.


----------



## MStanic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22490529
> 
> 
> Hey Folks,
> 
> Just got my D2v upgraded with the 3D board. I brought it in with V3.09 already running flawlessly since it was out. I took it in yesterday and picked it up today. I assume he popped in the new board and reprogrammed the firmware. I reconnected everything and made sure my source setup and all of the config is the way it should be for my setup and it appears to be. However, I get no display/signal from any source. The D2v turns on and I can navigate to the setup menus from the front display on the unit but no signal at all on my projector screen. I have the main HDMI1 connection coming from my Epson projector. I tried reloading factory defaults and then restoring my user settings but I get nothing. I'm in the process of reprogramming 3.09 firmware. In the meantime, does anybody have any ideas? Thanks.



Just to update,


I move the main D2v HDMI1 display, which connects to my project, over to HDMI 2 and I get the onscreen display of the D2v to work but no sound/audio detection and no picture from the source. I've never used HDMI2 from the D2v, just HDMI1.


----------



## MStanic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22490635
> 
> 
> Just to update,
> 
> I move the main D2v HDMI1 display, which connects to my project, over to HDMI 2 and I get the onscreen display of the D2v to work but no sound/audio detection and no picture from the source. I've never used HDMI2 from the D2v, just HDMI1.



I have the Panny dual HDMI which is still connected directly to the projector for video and to the D2v for audio. This was working perfectly previous to the upgrade. I get picture okay since its the Panny to the projector (no D2v) but no audio. It would appear that the D2v is no longer working for audio and video. Should have left well enough alone. I kind of thought I would run into an issue and sure enough I jinxed it. Anyways, reflasing the firmware did nothing. It completed okay but same problem. I guess now it's going to have to go to Anthem unless someone has something else I can possibly try. Thanks.


----------



## Texas steve


Have you tried switching your inputs.   I found in a couple of upgrades in the past, I too had the same problem,  but when I switched the inputs (go from HDMI 1 to HDMI 5 as example and configer that input), that it solved the problem.   I found it was not the output, but the input causing the problem.   Dont know why.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22490094
> 
> 
> . . . . Now I have an avm30, avm50, mca20 and an mca30 to try and sell.
> 
> . . . .



Have you consider applying to become a dealer?









--Bob


----------



## MStanic

Thanks for responding but I am not sure what you mean by switching inputs to resolve my issue. At most, that will allow to troubleshoot whether HDMI 1 to 4 (new 3D board) is bad. I have my PS3 on HDMI 5 and still no video but I do get audio from there as I can hear the PS3's startup sound.


----------



## porschetech

Hahaha Bob! Yeah I should at this rate!! I just can't believe how and why I've been upgrading my components. One should be happy/content with what they have right? At least it's still excellent stuff and they all have good resale value. Avm50 might be sold. $1200 is the lowest price I've seen anywhere!


Anthony


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22486829
> 
> 
> P...we just found the problem with the AVM 50v turn-on volume and are testing internally (beta to follow).


*HOORAY!!!!!!!!!!!* Nick, thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!


----------



## EricE

On a side note... I did get to meet Nick in person at the Toronto AV show a few weeks back. Great person to talk to and some great insights into the workings of Anthem/Paradigm. I didn't even know it was Nick till I looked down at his name tag.


----------



## Kensmith48

Posted by Nick at Anthem,.

For example, two weeks ago we were forwarded a problem description from someone who had convinced himself that something was wrong with our latest, and we immediately replied by pointing out that v3.09 was not installed *after* the 3D board. Unstable operation is guaranteed in such a case, and a lot of time and frustration would have been saved if whoever did the upgrade followed the instructions.




I felt the need to clarify the above statement. On page 1 of the 3D upgrade instructions it states: " Download 3D upgrade available on the Anthem website at www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software . Follow the instructions in the download package." Also on page 1 in the box near the bottom of the page it states: "Once the new board is installed you will be required to download new software from the Anthem website to complete the update."

Then on the last page of the 3D upgrade instructions, Step 13 states: "Connect the unit to your computer using the unit's RS232 pin connector and download the new software from www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software . This procedure should take approx. 30 minutes.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22498514
> 
> 
> Posted by Nick at Anthem,.
> 
> For example, two weeks ago we were forwarded a problem description from someone who had convinced himself that something was wrong with our latest, and we immediately replied by pointing out that v3.09 was not installed *after* the 3D board. Unstable operation is guaranteed in such a case, and a lot of time and frustration would have been saved if whoever did the upgrade followed the instructions.
> 
> I felt the need to clarify the above statement. On page 1 of the 3D upgrade instructions it states: " Download 3D upgrade available on the Anthem website at www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software . Follow the instructions in the download package." Also on page 1 in the box near the bottom of the page it states: "Once the new board is installed you will be required to download new software from the Anthem website to complete the update."
> 
> Then on the last page of the 3D upgrade instructions, Step 13 states: "Connect the unit to your computer using the unit's RS232 pin connector and download the new software from www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software . This procedure should take approx. 30 minutes.


All the above remindes me of "Cool Hand Luke" - "what we have here is a failure to communicate"!!   Despite all the best intentions


----------



## bigdaddy999

Hi folks. I have been reading the various threads here, but not finding what I'm looking for, and someone suggested I ask this here.


I've got a tough room for EQ, and have the following equipment:

- AVM20

- Rotel 1095 amp

- B&W 804's / 805's, HTM2

- Dual Velodyne HGS12x subs running off a BFD parametric EQ

- NAD T571

- a cheap Panny Blu-Ray running multi-channel analog connections to the AVM20 (interestingly, the cheap Panny Bluray bests the old NAD on DVD PQ)


I don't care about state of the art video processing or 3D stuff. I want to improve the sound quality and EQ.


I am interested in getting something with the ARC, and HDMI but don't want to backtrack on sound quality. I would then dump the parametric EQ as part of the process. I run balanced connections to the AMP and EQ, but they're short, so maybe not needed.


I'm unclear on the sonic differences between the AVM20 and the other options, which are:

- AVM50 with ARC

- MX300/500 - as a prepro only

- D2 - (lots more $$)


Is there a major difference sonically between the AVM 20 and the AVM50?


Seems like the MRX300 would be giving up a bunch of SQ if the AVM by itself lists for 3x the MRX.... or is the prepro section really good in these? (I would keep the Rotel amp)


Any suggestions?


Thanks!


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38550#post_22450601
> 
> 
> I really don't know the answer. In all the firmware installs I did during the testing I never once lost my Video Source Adjust Menu settings, but I was not using custom gamma curves (which are saved in that same memory on the video board). I believe the warning has to do with the failsafe nature of the firmware install for the video board. I.e., if the upgrade fails to take on the video board for any reason, I believe the install resets that board to make sure it can complete the install and you aren't left with a bricked unit. And the reset would erase those settings memories. So the answer to whether you'll lose the settings is "Maybe".
> 
> You are going to have to check with Anthem on whether LVSE works at this point. Settings Backup Utility stopped working just before the product shipped, apparently because the hardware upgrade now resulted in it seeing a new model number it didn't recognize. And the utility has not been fixed yet to correct that. I don't know if LVSE has that problem, because I've not had occasion to try it.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you, Bob.


I just got the unit back with 3D upgrade and my video settings were unaffected. I just loaded my saved user settings and everything seems to work. Haven't tried connecting LVSE yet... EDIT: LVSE works fine!


Note that older units requiring video board swap will most certainly loose video settings.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22501467
> 
> 
> I'm unclear on the sonic differences between the AVM20 and the other options, which are:
> 
> - AVM50 with ARC
> 
> - MX300/500 - as a prepro only
> 
> - D2 - (lots more $$)
> 
> Is there a major difference sonically between the AVM 20 and the AVM50?
> 
> Seems like the MRX300 would be giving up a bunch of SQ if the AVM by itself lists for 3x the MRX.... or is the prepro section really good in these? (I would keep the Rotel amp)
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks!



I debated roughly the same thing a while back, I had an AVM20 V2. I debated a while about getting an MRX but eventually decided against it, but probably not for very good reasons, mainly because I couldn't bring myself to "downgrade".


As for the questions, the MRXs have less DSP horsepower than the 50V/D2 for ARC so they _may_ not be able to correct your room as well (depends on the necessary correction).


As far as AVM50V vs AVM20, I come to realize I just don't listen close enough to be consider golden eared, but I would say excluding ARC the sound quality is basically the same. ARC made and improvement in my room, but not a huge one. However my room I think is relatively easy to correct as I have some room treatments already and it wasn't bad to begin with.


I can't really speak to the D2 as it's way more than I can justify but my understanding is the main difference with it is the upsampling of audio.


----------



## porschetech

i had an avm30 and moved up to the avm50. i did hear a difference, the centre channel was more detailed and the overall sound was more open.



i also see a lot more MRX's selling on ebay and audiogon lately. are people not 100% happy with them??


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22501705
> 
> 
> the MRXs have less DSP horsepower than the 50V/D2 for ARC so they _may_ not be able to correct your room as well (depends on the necessary correction).



He says he wants heavy correction, so I would definitely recommend the 50v or D2.


----------



## bigdaddy999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22502231
> 
> 
> He says he wants heavy correction, so I would definitely recommend the 50v or D2.



Well, "heavy" correction is not required. I want to get accuracy to the extent I can get it, so the higher powered version of the ARC would be worth it for me. I do not need the "50V" - I was thinking a regular AVM50, but with the ARC. So it's helpful to understand that there's a difference in ARC between the MX and the AVM/D series.


As far as actual sonic differences, is the componentry different in the AVM50 or is there a chance I'll "hear" the difference simply because it's a new box. I like to think I have very good ears, but it's not easy to A/B a prepro in the home!


----------



## AVfile

For straight PCM or lossy DD/DTS decoding, ARC aside, I don't think you will hear an appreciable difference between the AVM-20/30/40/50/50v as I do not believe the audio platform has changed much. If that was all you cared about I would recommend a used D2 over the 50v/D2v as a way to save money and get better ADC & DAC stages.


Note that the 50v has dual DSPs like the D2. I used to think this meant more power for ARC, but a recent post from [email protected] declared that the ARC solutions in the 50 and 50v would be equivalent. In fact the question that came up at the time related to loading ARC files generated on a user's old 50 into their new 50v (or was it D2v) and I think the answer was "maybe". So far so good for the old kits...


Now this begs the question, where do the dual DSPs come into play? My guess is to provide sufficient processing power for *proper* DTS-HD Master Audio decoding. There are many cheaper hardware solutions (i.e. DTS Essentials decoders) out there and apparently software shortcuts that receiver/player manufacturers are able to take due to DTS complexity and/or lack of processing power, without the user ever knowing!


If you want the best in lossless codecs then you "need" a 50v or D2v. Since the D2 didn't support these codecs it is possible the dual DSP was underutilized in that model, unless there is something else at play which Nick hasn't told us yet


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22502582
> 
> 
> For straight PCM or lossy DD/DTS decoding, ARC aside, I don't think you will hear an appreciable difference between the AVM-20/30/40/50/50v as I do not believe the audio platform has changed much. If that was all you cared about I would recommend a used D2 over the 50v/D2v as a way to save money and get better ADC & DAC stages.
> 
> Note that the 50v has dual DSPs like the D2. I used to think this meant more power for ARC, but a recent post from [email protected] declared that the ARC solutions in the 50 and 50v would be equivalent. In fact the question that came up at the time related to loading ARC files generated on a user's old 50 into their new 50v (or was it D2v) and I think the answer was "maybe". So far so good for the old kits...
> 
> Now this begs the question, where do the dual DSPs come into play? My guess is to provide sufficient processing power for *proper* DTS-HD Master Audio decoding. There are many cheaper hardware solutions (i.e. DTS Essentials decoders) out there and apparently software shortcuts that receiver/player manufacturers are able to take due to DTS complexity and/or lack of processing power, without the user ever knowing!
> 
> If you want the best in lossless codecs then you "need" a 50v or D2v. Since the D2 didn't support these codecs it is possible the dual DSP was underutilized in that model, unless there is something else at play which Nick hasn't told us yet



The D2 doesn't have dolby volume either. Likely some processing power required for that.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22502582
> 
> 
> If you want the best in lossless codecs then you "need" a 50v or D2v. Since the D2 didn't support these codecs it is possible the dual DSP was underutilized in that model, unless there is something else at play which Nick hasn't told us yet



If you have a D2 you can still enjoy DTS-MA or Dolby HD. You just need to have a BR player that internally decodes them to pcm, and then send them to the D2.

No difference in sound quality. The only difference is that there is no little light on the D2 showing that it is getting DTS-MA or Dolby HD.


Tom


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22503131
> 
> 
> If you have a D2 you can still enjoy DTS-MA or Dolby HD. You just need to have a BR player that internally decodes them to pcm, and then send them to the D2.
> 
> No difference in sound quality. The only difference is that there is no little light on the D2 showing that it is getting DTS-MA or Dolby HD.
> 
> Tom



Assuming everyone does it the same which Anthem says they don't. You left out this part of my post:


"There are many cheaper hardware solutions (i.e. DTS Essentials decoders) out there and apparently software shortcuts that receiver/player manufacturers are able to take due to DTS complexity and/or lack of processing power, without the user ever knowing!"


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22502582
> 
> 
> For straight PCM or lossy DD/DTS decoding, ARC aside, I don't think you will hear an appreciable difference between the AVM-20/30/40/50/50v as I do not believe the audio platform has changed much. If that was all you cared about I would recommend a used D2 over the 50v/D2v as a way to save money and get better ADC & DAC stages.
> 
> Note that the 50v has dual DSPs like the D2. I used to think this meant more power for ARC, but a recent post from [email protected] declared that the ARC solutions in the 50 and 50v would be equivalent. In fact the question that came up at the time related to loading ARC files generated on a user's old 50 into their new 50v (or was it D2v) and I think the answer was "maybe". So far so good for the old kits...
> 
> Now this begs the question, where do the dual DSPs come into play? My guess is to provide sufficient processing power for *proper* DTS-HD Master Audio decoding. There are many cheaper hardware solutions (i.e. DTS Essentials decoders) out there and apparently software shortcuts that receiver/player manufacturers are able to take due to DTS complexity and/or lack of processing power, without the user ever knowing!
> 
> If you want the best in lossless codecs then you "need" a 50v or D2v. Since the D2 didn't support these codecs it is possible the dual DSP was underutilized in that model, unless there is something else at play which Nick hasn't told us yet




The AVM-50 ARC upgrade kit includes a new DSP board that switched out the old single DSP for a dual DSP board and brings the AVM-50 up to the same DSP processing ability of the D2. The only thing that the AVM-50 is lacking relative to the D2 is the automatic upsampleing, which may or may not be a valuable thing depending on who you listen to...


The V series does add Dolby Volume (mixed reviews as to it even being worth using), the new HD format decoding (BR player can do this), and 7.1 channel PWD input (non-V preamps only accept 5.1 and need to synthesize 7.1 (mixed reviews as to there being a difference between native 7.1 and synthesized 7.1).


The most cost effective solution would be to get an AVM-50 with ARC, but make sure it has ARC because you can't get a new ARC kit for the AVM-50 anymore. Anthem is all out of the dual processor boards. Am sure it would be nicer to get an AVM-50v, or even a D2 or D2v, but if you have an AVM-20, you would likely not be happy with an MRX...


As I am sure you can tell, I have an AVM-50 with ARC and currently have no desire to upgrade to anything available based on the currently associated costs...



Ed


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22504077
> 
> 
> The V series does add Dolby Volume (mixed reviews as to it even being worth using), the new HD format decoding (BR player can do this)



There is one place this matters, and what kept me from getting a 50 and waiting for the 50V, and that's with media players. There are a lot of media players out there that can play ripped Blu-rays and pass HBR audio but not decode it. So if you have, or think you might want one of those, then if you care about HBR audio, the 50 isn't really a viable option.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22503250
> 
> 
> Assuming everyone does it the same which Anthem says they don't. You left out this part of my post:
> 
> "There are many cheaper hardware solutions (i.e. DTS Essentials decoders) out there and apparently software shortcuts that receiver/player manufacturers are able to take due to DTS complexity and/or lack of processing power, without the user ever knowing!"



I read your post, and I diagree with the "need" assertion you have made.

There undoubtitly are some BR players that use cheaper hardware. Probably brands that the readers of this thread wouldn't be buying.

There are many good BR players that don't use cheap hardware or software shortcuts when internally decoding the lossless codecs to pcm (or to pcm then to analog) and then sending the signal to the non 'v' Anthems.


Personally I'm quite pleased with my Oppo BR player sending out pcm via hdmi to my D2 for DTS-MA and DolbyHD. If I weren't happy with the pcm from the oppo I could use the analog outs from the Oppo and still use my D2 with ARC.

Its true I can't directly a/b bitstream/pcm, but I would be surprised if I could hear any difference. I have a/b'd the lossy codecs when watching dvd's and I couldn't tell the difference between DD 5.1 being decoded in the Oppo or the D2. The only difference was which little blue lights were lit up on the D2 and what signal its display indicated it was receiving.


I don't know what BR player you are using, but I doubt you could tell a difference either if you were using a good one, and I would bet you are.

If its important to you to be able to have the Anthem display that it is receiving DTS-MA then you "need" the 'v'. My D2 just displays that it is getting pcm in, but I trust that my oppo is sending DTS-MA to my D2 when I choose DTS-MA in the Oppo.

If you trust that your BR player is sending DTS-MA to your Anthem when its display says it is, then you don't "need" the 'v'.

What we "need" to do is spend time investigating the components we buy to make sure they don't use cheap hardware and poor software.


Tom


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22502582
> 
> 
> Since the D2 didn't support these codecs it is possible the dual DSP was underutilized in that model, unless there is something else at play which Nick hasn't told us yet



Underutilized only until ARC came along, then it maxed out.


- AVM 40/50 with one single core DSP - no ARC, no HD decoding, no Dolby Volume, up to 96 kHz input with 6 channels


- AVM 40/50 with two single core DSPs (same as D2's except for clock) - ARC, no HD decoding, no Dolby Volume, up to 96 kHz input with 6 channels


- AVM 50v has two dual core DSPs (that's like four single core DSPs, and same as D2v's except for clock) - ARC, HD decoding, Dolby Volume, up to 192 kHz input with 8 channels


The v models use a different, newer, and more capable DSP though ARC didn't change. Once upon a time chip model numbers and DSP count were standard ad material but I'm glad that the industry has moved away from that, because as you can see there's a lot more to it than a shred or two of info about a part. All that matters is what comes out the output jack, and someone has to put software in DSPs before they do anything.


The practical differences between v and non-v are listed and/or explained in the v brochure -- that's everything that matters above plus the VXP feature differences (user adjustable mosquito and block noise reduction) and HDMI feature differences (jack count, 10- and 12- bit support aka Deep Color, jitter reduction, equalization, and lately 3D/passthrough) -- and on that topic it's about time that HDMI version number is banned from ads since all that mattered all along is what HDMI features, many of which are optional, model XYZ supports.


Are there significant differences between v and non-v? Yes, see above. Does non-v get the job done regardless? In a big way as long as ARC is included, or at least that's my opinion.


Is there anything here I haven't said before? Don't think so but at least now it's all in one place.


----------



## AVfile

Had trouble remembering the discussion so I dug up the old posts:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37140#post_22071277
> 
> 
> Here you go; only 50v gets the "dual-core, dual-processor audio DSP" of the Statement line:
> 
> http://www.anthemav.com/index.php?op...id=69&Itemid=8





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37170#post_22072142
> 
> 
> 
> This is for decoding 192 kHz sources (previous models went up to 96 kHz) - ARC is the same.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/37170#post_22072501
> 
> 
> The DSP is required not just for ARC but to decode compressed formats, bass management, time alignment, lip-sync delay, surround upmix, Dolby Volume, Dolby Digital dynamics control, bass/treble, center channel EQ, Boundary Gain Compensation, Room Resonance Filter, phase and polarity controls, and anything else meant to change the sound.
> 
> 
> AVM 50 (no ARC) - single DSP
> 
> 
> AVM 50/ARC - dual DSP
> 
> 
> AVM 50v - dual dual-core DSP (like 4 single-core)
> 
> 
> All different but in the latter two ARC result is the same. Twice the sampling rate requires twice the processing and for that matter twice the storage on the media. Number of DSPs doesn't mean anything on its own because if one DSP can do the job just as well as ten different ones, there's no point in using ten DSPs. The job that needs to be done determines which DSP to use and how many, and all that really matters is what comes out the output jack, not so much how it got there.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22504526
> 
> 
> Is there anything here I haven't said before? Don't think so but at least now it's all in one place.



Thanks, you beat me to it!


Once again the Anthem comparison PDF linked above proves to be very enlightening too, as it jives with what you just posted.


I guess some of these features are responsible for people hearing positive differences when upgrading from the 50 to 50v or D2 to D2v, as some of them reported during the old discussion.


----------



## TJG55

Love ya, Nick.

A most concise and cogent explanation of the AVM and D series, older as well as v series.

It's guys like you (along with Pierro, Andrew) that have kept me as a loyal dealer since the intro of the AVM-2. Paradigm, since before the original Studio Monitor.

TJG


Thomas J Gregory

Mr. Toads Stereo/ Video

2305 Ft Henry Dr

Kingsport (formerly Johnson City), Tn.

37664

423-392-1121, 423-929-1121

[email protected]


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22504230
> 
> 
> There undoubtitly are some BR players that use cheaper hardware. Probably brands that the readers of this thread wouldn't be buying.
> 
> There are many good BR players that don't use cheap hardware or software shortcuts when internally decoding the lossless codecs to pcm (or to pcm then to analog) and then sending the signal to the non 'v' Anthems.
> 
> Personally I'm quite pleased with my Oppo BR player sending out pcm via hdmi to my D2 for DTS-MA and DolbyHD. If I weren't happy with the pcm from the oppo I could use the analog outs from the Oppo and still use my D2 with ARC.
> 
> Its true I can't directly a/b bitstream/pcm, but I would be surprised if I could hear any difference. I have a/b'd the lossy codecs when watching dvd's and I couldn't tell the difference between DD 5.1 being decoded in the Oppo or the D2. The only difference was which little blue lights were lit up on the D2 and what signal its display indicated it was receiving.
> 
> I don't know what BR player you are using, but I doubt you could tell a difference either if you were using a good one, and I would bet you are.
> 
> If you trust that your BR player is sending DTS-MA to your Anthem when its display says it is, then you don't "need" the 'v'.



I have an Oppo 83 which is known to have decoding errors resulting in distortion when converting DTS-HDMA 7.1 tracks to PCM due to the older chipset it uses. I know the newer models have fixed this, but I always use bitstream so I don't have to worry.


A couple other guys (namely Peter from Denmark and a fellow from Australia) reported in this thread there is also a lack of dynamics with the Oppo doing the decoding of certain DTS-HDMA 5.1 tracks (depends on the movie) compared to the 50v doing the decoding. I know this is anecdotal but we have discovered some studios are implementing DTS metadata in interesting ways, which some decoders simply ignore. Anthem on the other hand implemented all the flags to the letter of the spec, but due to inconsistencies in the industry removed one feature (side speaker angle) in the latest firmware. This just shows not everything is as straight forward as conventional wisdom would suggest.


I also noticed some minor differences in dynamics with my previous Sony BD player. I performed this test on day 1 with my 50v and have not looked back.


> Quote:
> What we "need" to do is spend time investigating the components we buy to make sure they don't use cheap hardware and poor software.
> 
> Tom



Agreed. If I had a 50 or D2 I would have to be a little more careful in BD player selection!


----------



## obie_fl

One point I didn't see mentioned with this latest V versus non-V comparison is the original series only takes in 5.1 PCM vice 7.1 on the V models.


Two things keep nagging me to upgrade my D2 to a V. The above limitation since I have a 7.1 system and as Stanger89 pointed out above, most if not all the BD streamers don't have audio decoding built in hence the need for decoding in the pre/pro. Only one thing holding me back $$$.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22504787
> 
> 
> One point I didn't see mentioned with this latest V versus non-V comparison is the original series only takes in 5.1 PCM vice 7.1 on the V models.



Yes it was mentioned by Nick as "up to 192 kHz input with 8 channels" versus 6 channels.


> Quote:
> Two things keep nagging me to upgrade my D2 to a V. The above limitation since I have a 7.1 system and as Stanger89 pointed out above, most if not all the BD streamers don't have audio decoding built in hence the need for decoding in the pre/pro. Only one thing holding me back $$$.



$8k buys a lot of Blu-rays










I hear you about the 7.1 system. One thing you should know though, even with the 50v/D2v lossless sound with native rear channels only works for discrete 6.1 and 7.1 soundtracks. There is no lossless DTS-HDMA 5.1 ES despite what those Disney-Pixar blu-rays say, so you would still be applying 5.1 PLIIx or NEO:6 to get the rear channels. I was very miffed by this but Anthem told me this is another area other receivers/decoders *cheat* and provides the lossy core DTS-ES 5.1 but still light up DTS-HDMA!


----------



## porschetech

so once the bluray player is set to pcm. is the bluray doing the decoding or the prepro decoding?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The Blu-ray is doing the decoding when you use LPCM output from it.

--Bob


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22505379
> 
> 
> ^ The Blu-ray is doing the decoding when you use LPCM output from it.
> 
> --Bob


so how do you let the pre/pro decode and still have pcm? if the pre/pro decoding is better than the player? as an exmaple i have a denon 3800 bdci that i've set to pcm via hdmi for both sound and picture out


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If you want the Anthem AVM 50v or D2v to do the decoding, set your Blu-ray player to Bitstream output. Also check your player manual for what it does with respect to Secondary Audio Mixing, and how that affects its HDMI audio output. You will likely need to disable Secondary Audio Mixing to get best results for Bitstream output, and quite possibly also for LPCM output.


Note that even if you set Bitstream output, content which is ALREADY LPCM (i.e., no decoding needed) will still be output as LPCM. So for example you will get LPCM when playing a CD.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22504953
> 
> 
> Anthem told me this is another area other receivers/decoders *cheat* and provides the lossy core DTS-ES 5.1 but still light up DTS-HDMA!



True, what you see isn't always what you get though they're following rules that they didn't create. If someone on our end gave the impression that we were pointing our finger at other manufacturers over this, it wasn't the intent. The display difference arises because we decided to do things a little differently solely for the well intentioned purpose of using the lossless stream wherever we could, resulting in what you see *is* what you get, no matter the speaker configuration. Keep in mind that DTS Master Audio consists of core plus extension audio, and that while the core is lossy, it's at 1536 kbps, not the so-called half rate normally found on feature length DVD. As the AIX 7.1 Master Audio channel ID test shows when played over 5.1 speakers, it's normal for the core alone to be used although this might not be the initial expectation.


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22505500
> 
> 
> ^ If you want the Anthem AVM 50v or D2v to do the decoding, set your Blu-ray player to Bitstream output. Also check your player manual for what it does with respect to Secondary Audio Mixing, and how that affects its HDMI audio output. You will likely need to disable Secondary Audio Mixing to get best results for Bitstream output, and quite possibly also for LPCM output.
> 
> Note that even if you set Bitstream output, content which is ALREADY LPCM (i.e., no decoding needed) will still be output as LPCM. So for example you will get LPCM when playing a CD.
> 
> --Bob



my head hurts


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Oh? Well, then, we should probably leave Video Calibration to another day...









--Bob


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22505749
> 
> 
> Oh? Well, then, we should probably leave Video Calibration to another day...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



i'm ok.....just take it easy with me. this LPCM/Bitsream confuses me . i'm up for getting the best sound that i can


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38220#post_22344835
> 
> 
> In that case it should be no problem presuming you are comparing HDMI output in both cases. If you are using Analog output in either case then there are other things to check.
> 
> NOTE: When using Bitstream output, you must set Secondary Audio OFF in the OPPO 95 to get the output you are trying to get.
> 
> Get either the AIX or Disney disc I mentioned and you can compare directly what happens with HDMI Bitstream and HDMI LPCM output of their test 7.1 DTS-HD MA track.
> 
> --Bob



I finally picked up the WOW disc today and there is quite a difference in the test tones from the audio calibration portion bitstream vs LPCM. even switched to LPCM there is a difference from the disc test tones and the Anthem generated ones. Which do I trust?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Trust what ARC has set up for you. Use the calibration discs to see what's happening with Bitstream vs. LPCM to see if you have a setup problem for something ELSE other than speaker volume trims.

--Bob


----------



## porschetech

Bob.....trust me i'm gonna be asking a ton of questions when i get the D2 setup and using the ARC feature


----------



## Bob Pariseau

wingnut4772,

Also, once you get ARC set up, do NOT use the Internal test tones in the Anthem for measurement/adjustment. They don't go through the processing which ARC sets up. After getting ARC set up, use those internal tones only for the most basic stuff, such as confirming the speakers are wired to the correct outputs and that the amps are turning on.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38700#post_22506064
> 
> 
> wingnut4772,
> 
> Also, once you get ARC set up, do NOT use the Internal test tones in the Anthem for measurement/adjustment. They don't go through the processing which ARC sets up. After getting ARC set up, use those internal tones only for the most basic stuff, such as confirming the speakers are wired to the correct outputs and that the amps are turning on.
> 
> --Bob



Ahhhhhhhh ok. Well I changed the hell out of the levels goofing around with the calibration disc.



Edit: How accurate is that since that is running through ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You might want to re-Upload your current ARC solution. Fixes everything in one go. No need to re-Measure.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38700#post_22506105
> 
> 
> ^ You might want to re-Upload your current ARC solution. Fixes everything in one go. No need to re-Measure.
> 
> --Bob




If the test tones from the DVD are running through ARC, are they reliable?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ In general, yes. HOWEVER, the ARC mic uses a wider frequency range to set the volume trims than the test tones + SPL meter will use. So it is still best to rely on ARC, and then note what the result is with the disc's test tones. Some differences will be "normal" such as the increase in Sub output due to Room Gain in the ARC solution. Others might indicate some settings problem in your setup. Start looking for the reasons, but always go back to what ARC has set up.


(At least until you can get confirmation there's some bug that needs to be worked around.)

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38700#post_22506124
> 
> 
> ^ In general, yes. HOWEVER, the ARC mic uses a wider frequency range to set the volume trims than the test tones + SPL meter will use. So it is still best to rely on ARC, and then note what the result is with the disc's test tones. Some differences will be "normal" such as the increase in Sub output due to Room Gain in the ARC solution. Others might indicate some settings problem in your setup. Start looking for the reasons, but always go back to what ARC has set up.
> 
> (At least until you can get confirmation there's some bug that needs to be worked around.)
> 
> --Bob



Cool. Thanks again.


----------



## MStanic

To run ARC again,


Do I, manually enter my speaker distances and calibrate the speaker levels to 75db using my SPL & then run ARC.


or


Do I just run ARC with speaker distances and speaker levels set to default and let ARC do its thing.


Let me know plz, thanks.


BTW, my D2v is up and running again with the 3D upgrade. Luckily, I am 15 minutes from them so I was able to RMA the unit Monday and had it back Wednesday evening. Great customer service as always.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38700#post_22506534
> 
> 
> To run ARC again,
> 
> Do I, manually enter my speaker distances and calibrate the speaker levels to 75db using my SPL & then run ARC.
> 
> or
> 
> Do I just run ARC with speaker distances and speaker levels set to default and let ARC do its thing.
> 
> Let me know plz, thanks.
> 
> BTW, my D2v is up and running again with the 3D upgrade. Luckily, I am 15 minutes from them so I was able to RMA the unit Monday and had it back Wednesday evening. Great customer service as always.


This should be helpful for you, courtesy of Bob P.: http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/28920#post_18914184


----------



## MStanic

Thanks. I just thought with 3.09 now we could just go and run ARC without having to do the manual steps Bob describes.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38700#post_22506620
> 
> 
> Thanks. I just thought with 3.09 now we could just go and run ARC without having to do the manual steps Bob describes.


If you have ran ARC before, you can just upload your last ARC file, and you should be good to go.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38700#post_22506534
> 
> 
> BTW, my D2v is up and running again with the 3D upgrade. Luckily, I am 15 minutes from them so I was able to RMA the unit Monday and had it back Wednesday evening.



Yet another example of why it's important to treat each case as its own even though symptoms might be similar to someone else's, and to keep tech support or the dealer in the loop as MStanic has done. Self-medication would have never cured this one because the "big" upgrade, yet to be released in kit form, was needed. Arrangements between parties involved plus some miscommunication led to the wrong kit at the wrong time, now all taken care of. The chances of it happening twice are slim to none.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38700#post_22507705
> 
> 
> Yet another example of why it's important to treat each case as its own even though symptoms might be similar to someone else's, and to keep tech support or the dealer in the loop as MStanic has done. Self-medication would have never cured this one because the "big" upgrade, yet to be released in kit form, was needed. Arrangements between parties involved plus some miscommunication led to the wrong kit at the wrong time, now all taken care of. The chances of it happening twice are slim to none.



Nick


Are you saying there are two kits ?


And two diiferent upgrade routes possible ?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Two kits, one possible path:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38670#post_22504953
> 
> 
> Yes it was mentioned by Nick as "up to 192 kHz input with 8 channels" versus 6 channels.
> 
> $8k buys a lot of Blu-rays
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hear you about the 7.1 system. One thing you should know though, even with the 50v/D2v lossless sound with native rear channels only works for discrete 6.1 and 7.1 soundtracks. There is no lossless DTS-HDMA 5.1 ES despite what those Disney-Pixar blu-rays say, so you would still be applying 5.1 PLIIx or NEO:6 to get the rear channels. I was very miffed by this but Anthem told me this is another area other receivers/decoders *cheat* and provides the lossy core DTS-ES 5.1 but still light up DTS-HDMA!



AVFile,


I want to make sure that I didn't misunderstand your post. Are you saying that if you are playing a 5.1 mix that is lossless then if you apply Dolby PLXII then it takes the lossless mix?? Or, are you saying that if it is a 5.1 mix then it's not lossless no matter what?


I interpreted your comments as saying that if you apply any dolby processing on the Anthem, then you are not playing the lossless core but rather the lossy version on the disc.


Thanks for any clarification on that.


Regards,

Theo


----------



## porschetech

D2 just arrived this afternoon. Hopefully hooking it up tonight or tomorrow morning


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38700#post_22510085
> 
> 
> AVFile,
> 
> I want to make sure that I didn't misunderstand your post. Are you saying that if you are playing a 5.1 mix that is lossless then if you apply Dolby PLXII then it takes the lossless mix?? Or, are you saying that if it is a 5.1 mix then it's not lossless no matter what?
> 
> I interpreted your comments as saying that if you apply any dolby processing on the Anthem, then you are not playing the lossless core but rather the lossy version on the disc.
> 
> Thanks for any clarification on that.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Theo



Oh no, nothing like that. With legacy DTS-ES and DD-EX on DVD you get a matrixed surround back channel which was beneficial for 6.1 and 7.1 speaker setups. I called this the native rear channel because of course it could be synthesized with PLIIx or other proprietary modes, if you decided to engage them. With DTS-ES (and sometimes DD-EX) there was a flag on the DVD that told the processor to automatically engage the right mode.


With DTS-HDMA on blu-ray the flag doesn't work. Even though some titles are actually 6.1 channel mixes (5.1 ES with the extra rear channel matrixed in) they will come up as 5.1 unless you have DTS Neo:6 or PLIIx engaged - either manually selected or as your mode preset for DTS. To add confusion the DTS-ES mode preset in the Anthem setup menu looks interesting but only applies to legacy DTS(ES), not the HD extentions. Now this is probably a moot point as most folks just have PLIIx or their favorite mode engaged for all formats at all times, but I was not expecting this step backwards in automation from the old DVD days.


I believe the same limitation applies for Dolby Digital Plus 5.1 EX tracks but these are more common to HD-DVD titles.


The limitation does NOT apply to DTS-HDMA 6.1 or 7.1 tracks as those are all discrete and do not rely on any matrixed channels.


So in summary with the Anthem you will always get lossless sound where available, but not lossless + matrixed rear channel unless the appropriate mode is selected. I am told Anthem does this to ensure you always get lossless sound.


(by the way the DTS core is the lossy part; the extensions make it lossless)


----------



## porschetech

Hmmm..........so I have the D2 all hooked up. Watching a bluray right now and I haven't touched the config on it as I did all that with the avm50. None of the blue status LEDs are lit. Display says PCM, but doesn't show Dolby digital, dts, etc



Got it figured out now thanks to fellow forum member Jason. This PCM stuff still gets me confused, but I'm slowly getting a better understanding


----------



## AVfile

^ Yeah that's normal. You have a D2 which can't decode Blu-ray lossless bitstreams, so it's using PCM as determined by the player setup. I can see how you would get confused though because it can decode lossy bitstreams like most legacy equipment (DVD, Sat, Cable, etc.).


My post above applies to the D2v & 50v.


----------



## porschetech

anyone here have a contact at anthem parts dept? i need an LED board for my D2.......its a bit on the dim side, even at max brightness.


anthony


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38700#post_22517141
> 
> 
> anyone here have a contact at anthem parts dept? i need an LED board for my D2.......its a bit on the dim side, even at max brightness.
> 
> anthony



Have you tried calling Anthem support them on the telephone ?


----------



## porschetech

yes i did call em. they don't want to sell me the board. gave me a price of the board, but want 2 hrs labour and a 3 week turnaround. i already took it apart to inspect and the board, remove and refit took me 15 mins


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38700#post_22517446
> 
> 
> yes i did call em. they don't want to sell me the board. gave me a price of the board, but want 2 hrs labour and a 3 week turnaround. i already took it apart to inspect and the board, remove and refit took me 15 mins


Are you comfortable witha solder iron and using a multimeter? I would buy equivalent sized LEDs for a couple of cents or dollars and do it myself.


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38700#post_22518030
> 
> 
> Are you comfortable witha solder iron and using a multimeter? I would buy equivalent sized LEDs for a couple of cents or dollars and do it myself.



It's not the LEDs. It's the main display. The pixels are a lil on the dim side. As for soldering....no probs there. I work on Porsches for a living (25 yrs as a tech.....12 yrs at dealership level). So soldering and meters are no worries for me


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


What do you guys know about EDID problems with the D2v?

Because I just received a Mede8er MED1000X 3D media streamer in order to play 3D material and I get very jerky BD ISO playback but more important I get no audio when selecting Hi codecs such as DTS-MA or DTHD. Instead I get some harmful noises every second.

When I contacted Mede8er support and described the problem they wrote thee following:


*****************************************************************************************************************************************

Are you missing the point of capturing the EDID? It's all about showing what EDID information the X3 is getting from your amp.


We've given you links showing this amp has EDID issues, even if in earlier version.


Heres is a thread which is over 1000 pages long on trying to get this amp to work. It's isn't plug'n'play.


_http:// www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/16350 


I also pointed out that Anthem know they have EDID issues and will release a modded firmware if requested.


****************************************************************************************************************************************


So what do you make of that?


BTW I own a D2v 3D running v.3.09


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38700#post_22519895
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> What do you guys know about EDID problems with the D2v?
> 
> Because I just received a Mede8er MED1000X 3D media streamer in order to play 3D material and I get very jerky BD ISO playback but more important I get no audio when selecting Hi codecs such as DTS-MA or DTHD. Instead I get some harmful noises every second.
> 
> When I contacted Mede8er support and described the problem they wrote thee following:
> 
> *****************************************************************************************************************************************
> 
> Are you missing the point of capturing the EDID? It's all about showing what EDID information the X3 is getting from your amp.
> 
> We've given you links showing this amp has EDID issues, even if in earlier version.
> 
> Heres is a thread which is over 1000 pages long on trying to get this amp to work. It's isn't plug'n'play.
> 
> _http:// www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/16350
> 
> I also pointed out that Anthem know they have EDID issues and will release a modded firmware if requested.
> 
> ****************************************************************************************************************************************
> 
> So what do you make of that?
> 
> BTW I own a D2v 3D running v.3.09


Xstrips ...post #16350 is the wrong post, i believe. My Moxi cable box has EDID issues with the Anthem as well and as far as i can tell, they are still working on the issue.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38700#post_22519895
> 
> 
> So what do you make of that?



xtrips what I make of your experience with your new 3D media player is that its manufacturer's citing of hearsay from 2008 is nothing but comedy. Two can play the finger pointing game - just search "handshake problems with Mede8er" for more up to date irrelevance and generalization. As mentioned, v3.09 is HDMI/HDCP approved, as was D2 since its launch. We do *not* know of EDID issues unless someone starts by sending us a detailed report of the unique issue at hand, and possibly the device in question, and we will *not* modify software if the issue is not with the D2v regardless of having done so a long time ago when the entire HDMI industry was undergoing teething pains.


When was the last time you saw anyone report a problem with a disc player, including 3D? Even cable/sat issues, once a big problem because their manufacturers only accounted for direct connection to a TV, have become almost nonexistent, including with 3D. Only a few weeks ago we had someone send us an expensive USB to coax audio converter because it didn't work with AVM 50v / D2v at sample rates higher than 96 kHz. It worked with another AVR at 192 kHz so naturally the finger was pointing at us. Once the converter arrived we saw that it wasn't using s/pdif sampling rate flags properly because its manufacturer was using an out of date s/pdif standard. Altogether, I've lost count of how many types of issue we found in source components though they've almost always been HDMI, often for reasons no one could have dreamt of even with the biggest brands involved.


So one last time and then I give up: It is up to you to advise tech support by way of observations, not jumping to conclusions. We're nice enough to spend our time and money figuring out what's going on as long as the device is at hand and doesn't need to be connected to a service such as cable or satellite.


----------



## steven2583

I just upgraded my D2v to the latest firmware 3.09. Also around that time Oppo sent out new firmware for the 95. I noticed a new problem that wasn't happening before. While watching a movie and also listening to music through the HDMI connection. The sound disappears after working for awhile. I switched to my DirecTV DVR and then back the sounds is restored. I reboot the D2v and the sound is restored. Has anyone else seen this problem?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38700#post_22523582
> 
> 
> I just upgraded my D2v to the latest firmware 3.09. Also around that time Oppo sent out new firmware for the 95. I noticed a new problem that wasn't happening before. While watching a movie and also listening to music through the HDMI connection. The sound disappears after working for awhile. I switched to my DirecTV DVR and then back the sounds is restored. I reboot the D2v and the sound is restored. Has anyone else seen this problem?



I Beta Test OPPO players and I've not run into that problem. OPPO also tests against the Anthem (w/ 3D upgrade) in their own lab. What you are describing sounds like the audio is getting muted due to a failure of the periodic copy protection check. That would typically happen due to cabling problems, for example if the plugs were not fully inserted in the sockets after you set things back up again.


So start by checking your connections. Make sure the plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets with nothing (e.g., cable weight) tugging them in any direction. Check both ends of each HDMI cable. Since HDMI is an end to end protocol, you also need to check the HDMI output to your display.


If that doesn't give you an easy fix, then tracking this down will be a bit of nuisance.


When does the failure happen? Right at the start of the audio stream, or after it has been playing for a few minutes? Does it happen at that same place each time when playing a given disc, or is it random where it might fail? Random would be more evidence that this is a copy protection failure (e.g., a cabling problem).


What type of HDMI audio are you using from the 95? HDMI LPCM or HDMI Bitstream?


I take it that video remains good even as the audio goes away, correct? Are you running video through the D2v or do you have that separately cabled from the 95 to your display?


I also take it that you are not using Analog audio from the 95 when this happens, correct?


HDMI cables carry both high and low bandwidth signals. It is possible for the low bandwidth signal to have problems even though the high bandwidth is working. So video looks good and audio sounds good but handshakes have lots of retries and copy protection sometimes fails. If you have any adapters, cable extensions, wall plates or HDMI switches in the signal path, they alone could be the cause of such problems.

--Bob


----------



## steven2583

I will play with the cables and verify that the are fully inserted. It happens in the middle of a stream(s). In the video I was watching it about 45 minutes into the show. The music it happened after a few songs played. All the the material is on my NAS via the OPPO. The dropout is at different places. Under DVD button I have three settings. Bluray HDMI, Bluray music (optical), Bluray HD (HDMI) onfigured with ARC 2 channels only. When it happens neither HDMI works but the optical does. The sound drop out is not in the same place. I backed up the video about 2 minutes and ran through it again and this time it had sound and played fine until the video finished. I am pushing BitStream to the D2v. Video is perfect and it only has one HDMI cable going to the D2v. Everything was working fine until I updated the firmware. Thinking about it now. I had to pull out the D2v out of rack part way to plug something in a week before I upgraded the firmware.


Hopefully it's just a lose cable. Thanks for the response.


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38700#post_22521956
> 
> 
> xtrips what I make of your experience with your new 3D media player is that its manufacturer's citing of hearsay from 2008 is nothing but comedy. Two can play the finger pointing game - just search "handshake problems with Mede8er" for more up to date irrelevance and generalization. As mentioned, v3.09 is HDMI/HDCP approved, as was D2 since its launch. We do *not* know of EDID issues unless someone starts by sending us a detailed report of the unique issue at hand, and possibly the device in question, and we will *not* modify software if the issue is not with the D2v regardless of having done so a long time ago when the entire HDMI industry was undergoing teething pains.
> 
> When was the last time you saw anyone report a problem with a disc player, including 3D? Even cable/sat issues, once a big problem because their manufacturers only accounted for direct connection to a TV, have become almost nonexistent, including with 3D. Only a few weeks ago we had someone send us an expensive USB to coax audio converter because it didn't work with AVM 50v / D2v at sample rates higher than 96 kHz. It worked with another AVR at 192 kHz so naturally the finger was pointing at us. Once the converter arrived we saw that it wasn't using s/pdif sampling rate flags properly because its manufacturer was using an out of date s/pdif standard. Altogether, I've lost count of how many types of issue we found in source components though they've almost always been HDMI, often for reasons no one could have dreamt of even with the biggest brands involved.
> 
> So one last time and then I give up: It is up to you to advise tech support by way of observations, not jumping to conclusions. We're nice enough to spend our time and money figuring out what's going on as long as the device is at hand and doesn't need to be connected to a service such as cable or satellite.



Nick I really appreciate the effort, that you take your time to go into details. In fact they had another newer beta on their site that almost solved the problem. So yes, the problem lays with them. Predictable.

Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38730#post_22523839
> 
> 
> I will play with the cables and verify that the are fully inserted. It happens in the middle of a stream(s). In the video I was watching it about 45 minutes into the show. The music it happened after a few songs played. All the the material is on my NAS via the OPPO. The dropout is at different places. Under DVD button I have three settings. Bluray HDMI, Bluray music (optical), Bluray HD (HDMI) onfigured with ARC 2 channels only. When it happens neither HDMI works but the optical does. The sound drop out is not in the same place. I backed up the video about 2 minutes and ran through it again and this time it had sound and played fine until the video finished. I am pushing BitStream to the D2v. Video is perfect and it only has one HDMI cable going to the D2v. Everything was working fine until I updated the firmware. Thinking about it now. I had to pull out the D2v out of rack part way to plug something in a week before I upgraded the firmware.
> 
> 
> Hopefully it's just a lose cable. Thanks for the response.



See if the same problem happens with commercial, shiny discs. This is to eliminate something strange going on with the NAS setup. The HDMI copy protection check happens periodically every 10 minutes or so. Normally it happens in the background and you never notice it.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

I need help, Urgently, Please!


What do you make of that? I was watching a movie, put it on pause for a few minutes. Then there were some very loud thunder outside. Not sure if this is connected, but since then I get no sound from my D2v 3D.

Note that there was no electrical interruption. Nothing went down. Picture stayed on pause until I came back. I get no sound only from HDMI inputs. My audio streamer, connected through coax still gives sound.

The level calibration test on my D2v runs correctly on all the speakers.


Any idea?


----------



## gerard1meehan



Xtrips,


Does this happen with all HDMI devices or is it specific to your DVD/B ray player? I have on occasion I have hit mute on my remote while it was cued up for my Oppo. Took me an hour to figure out why I had no sound.


----------



## xtrips

Unfortunately it happens with several hdmi sources.

Very weird.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Try doing a cold start of the D2v: Turn it off, then turn off the back panel power switch, then pull the power plug for the D2v. Wait about 10 minutes then turn things back on.


I suggest you also do that with the HDMI Source devices you are using to diagnose this.


Also check that the amps are turning on when trying to use the HDMI audio inputs. The problem may be in your Trigger configuration for taking the amps out of stand-by.


Also try both Bitstream and LPCM HDMI audio input, and check what the Select button displays say is coming in to the D2v for audio when you do that.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

After a few hours trying to solve the problem I finally managed to have audio back, but that is not the most interesting part.

Of course I called tech-support and they asked me to perform the expected procedure. Factory default, reload FW, etc...

That didn't work, although I had a bad feeling at the beginning because the Save settings utility wouldn't detect my D2v.

Then I tried every possible move, disconnecting everything and leaving only my projector and one source at a time.

Still no results.

Then I tried to remember what changed lately.

And baaam, i remembered that only yesterday I started using an RF retransmitter for my Harmony remote control. I never used it before but I had to now in order to counter the effect of overwhelming IR emitted from my projector when using 3D and 3D glasses.

So of course I had to use an IR cell on top of the IR sensor on the D2v.

I couldn't believe that could be the problem so I just disconnected the cable of the IR cell that goes into the RF retransmitter, leaving the cell stuck on the D2v.

And it worked.


How could audio disappear on HDMI inputs only? not the rest of the inputs? and only because the IR cell was maybe emitting something continuous to the D2v? or not?


Crazy! Plain crazy!


----------



## xtrips

Something else now, not related with my recent problem.

Has anyone noticed something unusual when running ARC under Windows 8?

Is it possible that the driver for the mike is not compatible or something?

Because i am getting incredibly low dB levels on the graphs. Between 15 and 20 dB lower than expected.

It reminds me of an old problem with ARC that has been solved in the latest versions.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38730#post_22530438
> 
> 
> After a few hours trying to solve the problem I finally managed to have audio back, but that is not the most interesting part.
> 
> Of course I called tech-support and they asked me to perform the expected procedure. Factory default, reload FW, etc...
> 
> That didn't work, although I had a bad feeling at the beginning because the Save settings utility wouldn't detect my D2v.
> 
> Then I tried every possible move, disconnecting everything and leaving only my projector and one source at a time.
> 
> Still no results.
> 
> Then I tried to remember what changed lately.
> 
> And baaam, i remembered that only yesterday I started using an RF retransmitter for my Harmony remote control. I never used it before but I had to now in order to counter the effect of overwhelming IR emitted from my projector when using 3D and 3D glasses.
> 
> So of course I had to use an IR cell on top of the IR sensor on the D2v.
> 
> I couldn't believe that could be the problem so I just disconnected the cable of the IR cell that goes into the RF retransmitter, leaving the cell stuck on the D2v.
> 
> And it worked.
> 
> 
> How could audio disappear on HDMI inputs only? not the rest of the inputs? and only because the IR cell was maybe emitting something continuous to the D2v? or not?
> 
> 
> Crazy! Plain crazy!



Transmitting the wrong Source selection? Transmitting Mute? Transmitting Volume Down repeatedly? Who knows what evil lurks in the hearts of incorrectly transmitted commands?


By the way, the problem with the Settings Backup utility is known. It doesn't work with the D2v/3D. Evidently the hardware change also changed the "model ID" that it looks for, so the utility no longer recognizes the Anthem as something it knows how to work with. (That's a guess.)


I've no idea why they haven't fixed that yet.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38730#post_22530472
> 
> 
> Something else now, not related with my recent problem.
> 
> Has anyone noticed something unusual when running ARC under Windows 8?
> 
> Is it possible that the driver for the mike is not compatible or something?
> 
> Because i am getting incredibly low dB levels on the graphs. Between 15 and 20 dB lower than expected.
> 
> It reminds me of an old problem with ARC that has been solved in the latest versions.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I don't believe we've had any statement from Anthem that ARC is compatible with Windows 8. It is quite possible Windows 8 changed the audio capture framework ARC depends on to get data from the mic.


There had to be an ARC update for Windows 7 compatibility, too, you might recall.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38730#post_22530505
> 
> 
> Transmitting the wrong Source selection? Transmitting Mute? Transmitting Volume Down repeatedly? Who knows what evil lurks in the hearts of incorrectly transmitted commands?
> 
> By the way, the problem with the Settings Backup utility is known. It doesn't work with the D2v/3D. Evidently the hardware change also changed the "model ID" that it looks for, so the utility no longer recognizes the Anthem as something it knows how to work with. (That's a guess.)
> 
> I've no idea why they haven't fixed that yet.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah, I know, nevertheless I guess I would have noticed something such as something flickering on the D2v's display, or the Mute message on the display and OSD. I mean a hint, but no, nothing.

Everything seemed to work correctly.

The only thing I can recall now is that when I had no audio, in fact the D2v's display was not reflecting the audio signal type anymore such as DTS-MA, etc...

I cannot make sense of what happened.

It would be interesting to see if it can be reproduced.

I will inform you and Anthem if it does.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38730#post_22530438
> 
> 
> After a few hours trying to solve the problem I finally managed to have audio back, but that is not the most interesting part.
> 
> Of course I called tech-support and they asked me to perform the expected procedure. Factory default, reload FW, etc...
> 
> That didn't work, although I had a bad feeling at the beginning because the Save settings utility wouldn't detect my D2v.
> 
> Then I tried every possible move, disconnecting everything and leaving only my projector and one source at a time.
> 
> Still no results.
> 
> Then I tried to remember what changed lately.
> 
> And baaam, i remembered that only yesterday I started using an RF retransmitter for my Harmony remote control. I never used it before but I had to now in order to counter the effect of overwhelming IR emitted from my projector when using 3D and 3D glasses.
> *So of course I had to use an IR cell on top of the IR sensor on the D2v*.
> 
> I couldn't believe that could be the problem so I just disconnected the cable of the IR cell that goes into the RF retransmitter, leaving the cell stuck on the D2v.
> 
> And it worked.
> 
> How could audio disappear on HDMI inputs only? not the rest of the inputs? and only because the IR cell was maybe emitting something continuous to the D2v? or not?
> 
> Crazy! Plain crazy!



Actually you don't need to use the the IR flasher over the front panel IR reciever of the D2v.

You can hook it up to the little green IR receiver plug in connector on the rear of your processor and turn off the front IR receiver in the Set-up menu (in the TRIGGER/IR/RS-232 section) .

I do this with my URC remote and RF/IR adapter.


First you will need to take one of your IR flasher cables and cut off the flasher, leaving the wires. Separate the two tiny wires and strip the ends.

Then remove the green plug-in IR connector from the rear of the D2v.

Then connect the wires into the far right and left holes on the green adapter and screw them down. This will set it up to control 'REAR IR 1'. Note that the far right connection is the ground--if the set-up doesn't work the first time you may need to switch the wires.

You will then need to get into the menu and enable the rear REAR 'IR 1' (*) and disable the front sensor (-). Read the manual for a better discription.

Warning--You will probably need to use the buttons on the front panel to navigate the menu once you disable the front IR.


I think you were probably getting multiple IR signals being sent to your D2v, even with the flasher over the front panel IR reciever. Using the rear IR connector and disabling the front panel IR receiver should solve your problem.

It may take a little fussing around, but it should be worth it if you are still having problems with signals coming from your projector.


Tom


----------



## xtrips

What I thought was a small misadventure was in fact a catastrophe.

It seems that my whole problem yesterday and its resolution was actually the premise of a much bigger problem.

Maybe the whole thing with IR was just a coincidence.

Today I had audio for some time, then it disappeared.

After that the video signal disappeared.

I gradually tried all the procedures i know of, from resetting to flash erasing and reloading the FW.

Now I have a dead D2v.

I can get the setup menu on screen, but no video or audio signal passes through.

I would like to reinstall the original daughter boards instead of the 3D board to see if has any incidence.

Does any one here have a picture of the insides of a D2v, not 3D?


Thanks


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38730#post_22532664
> 
> 
> What I thought was a small misadventure was in fact a catastrophe.
> 
> It seems that my whole problem yesterday and its resolution was actually the premise of a much bigger problem.
> 
> Maybe the whole thing with IR was just a coincidence.
> 
> Today I had audio for some time, then it disappeared.
> 
> After that the video signal disappeared.
> 
> I gradually tried all the procedures i know of, from resetting to flash erasing and reloading the FW.
> 
> Now I have a dead D2v.
> 
> I can get the setup menu on screen, but no video or audio signal passes through.
> 
> I would like to reinstall the original daughter boards instead of the 3D board to see if has any incidence.
> 
> Does any one here have a picture of the insides of a D2v, not 3D?
> 
> Thanks



FWIW, there have been a number of reports from owners who unplugged their units overnight and they came back to life when re-plugged and turned back on the next day. No logical reason why this has worked, but it has.


I would suggest letting it sit unplugged overnight and trying it again tommorow. Leave replacing the board to an Anthem authorized dealer so that you don't negate your warrantee.

Just saying.


Tom


----------



## chileboy

I am having an issue with my AVM50 w/ factory ARC that I posted awhile ago about. At first was just an annoyance, but is becoming increasingly frustrating. I realize the unit is an older model, but right now a new processor and/or display just isn't in the budget. I'm really hoping someone can give me some advice.


My display (Toshiba 65HX81) has no HDMI, component only, and based on the advice of folks here, I purchased an HDFury2 which in general works great. I'm able to send whatever resolutions I like to the AVM50 and it scales them to 1080i, and I can take advantage of the HD audio codecs, etc.


The problem I am having is that 80% of the time, when I power-up, the Anthem will not sync to the HDFury2. I get kind of flashing static. Sometimes I still have sound, and the AVM50 seems to think everything is fine, occasionally (not typically) I'll get the HDCP error. The only way I have discovered to resolve the issue (other than repeated power-off/on and crossing my fingers) is to disconnect the HDMI cable from the HDFury2 for a few seconds and then reconnect it. at which point it will almost always sync properly.


It doesn't seem to make any difference if I have connected the HDFury2's external power or not. Nor does the source or source resolution at power-up.


I was wondering if there is something in the setup I could tweak. There's settings in the onscreen menu (that appears when holding down "7" on the remote) that I honestly don't understand.


Any advice greatly appreciated.


- Mark


----------



## AVfile

Mark,

I run the HDFury3 without issue on my AVM50v. However I also have an HDF2 on another system (no AVM) and it is sensitive to the quality of the HDMI cable. Please try another cable even if you think the cable works fine with other equipment. Changing the cable completely resolved the scrambled screen issue for me.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38730#post_22534394
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 
> I run the HDFury3 without issue on my AVM50v. However I also have an HDF2 on another system (no AVM) and it is sensitive to the quality of the HDMI cable. Please try another cable even if you think the cable works fine with other equipment. Changing the cable completely resolved the scrambled screen issue for me.



Stefan, I remember trying different cables early on, but I've acquired a couple of others in the meantime - I will try again, thanks. If I might ask, what particular cable are you using? I'll try anything at this point.


Just curious also, are you using the external power? I am not at the moment, as it didn't seem to need it, and seemingly made no difference with my syncing issue.


----------



## xtrips

One day later, still my D2v is dead.

I am reverting to the old non-3D board and checking.


----------



## xtrips

It was the 3D board!

I reverted to the old daughter boards and the problems vanished.

Now what is more interesting is that another customer of mine also has a dead 3D board.

The symptoms for his D2v were different and that is why i didn't see the relation but the conclusion is the same.

Both of us had a 3D board that worked for some time (2 months for him, 3 weeks for me) and in the end dropped dead.

His D2v still works using the lower non-3D board, mine was simply useless before I reverted to the 2D boards.


I think this topic should raise concerns and I would like to have other D2v 3D owners share their experience here.


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I've been using the 3D board in my D2v since around the holidays LAST YEAR. No such problems here.


Sounds like you just ran into a warranty issue on the upgrade. Either that, or the lightning storm you mentioned zotzed it (to use the technical term). Spending some quality time with Anthem Tech Support is likely the next step.

--Bob


----------



## jayray

^ Same here.

John


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38730#post_22534818
> 
> 
> ^ I've been using the 3D board in my D2v since around the holidays LAST YEAR. No such problems here.
> 
> Sounds like you just ran into a warranty issue on the upgrade. Either that, or the lightning storm you mentioned zotzed it (to use the technical term). Spending some quality time with Anthem Tech Support is likely the next step.
> 
> --Bob



Well, you can put it like that but this time i will disagree.

It seems that the storm I quoted earlier was just a coincidence and a desperate attempt to blame something, because it was totally weird.

Just to recall an important detail or two. There was not even a flicker in the lights at home, and the movie I was projecting stayed on pause with a still image on screen. And mind you, when I speak of a storm, I am not living on a plain in Wyoming, I am living in Israel. Almost a desert. So you know, storms....


Now I contacted my customer to ask for more details about his D2v. He didn't upgrade, he got it new with the 3D board in June 2012.

It worked fine until September. Then he started to complain that after 30 minutes or so watching movies, from several different sources, he would see stains on his screen, colored stains. Then inputs failed.

When I came to him I ran some tests and the board was actually dead. The lower board worked though, without OSD of course, but it worked.


My experience was different but in the end the board failed me too.


I don't want to jump to conclusions but facts are facts.

So maybe they send B series boards abroad and keep the best batch for the domestic market and their neighbor









(Just kidding. It's just that I am so happy I don't have to part from my D2v for one month minimum. Yeah, they are sent back to Canada...)


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38730#post_22531992
> 
> 
> Actually you don't need to use the the IR flasher over the front panel IR reciever of the D2v.
> 
> You can hook it up to the little green IR receiver plug in connector on the rear of your processor and turn off the front IR receiver in the Set-up menu (in the TRIGGER/IR/RS-232 section) .
> 
> I do this with my URC remote and RF/IR adapter.
> 
> First you will need to take one of your IR flasher cables and cut off the flasher, leaving the wires. Separate the two tiny wires and strip the ends.
> 
> Then remove the green plug-in IR connector from the rear of the D2v.
> 
> Then connect the wires into the far right and left holes on the green adapter and screw them down. This will set it up to control 'REAR IR 1'. Note that the far right connection is the ground--if the set-up doesn't work the first time you may need to switch the wires.
> 
> You will then need to get into the menu and enable the rear REAR 'IR 1' (*) and disable the front sensor (-). Read the manual for a better discription.
> 
> Warning--You will probably need to use the buttons on the front panel to navigate the menu once you disable the front IR.
> 
> I think you were probably getting multiple IR signals being sent to your D2v, even with the flasher over the front panel IR reciever. Using the rear IR connector and disabling the front panel IR receiver should solve your problem.
> 
> It may take a little fussing around, but it should be worth it if you are still having problems with signals coming from your projector.
> 
> Tom



Yep. I have the same setup and it works like a charm.


----------



## AVfile

ESD (electrostatic discharge) when handling a board can cause a latent defect that doesn't result in failure until the board has been in service for a long time.


What does Anthem do with all the old boards? If the parts are not refurbished or used to make new boards maybe they should let us keep them as backups. I know my original board was in good shape and worked perfectly, so it would be foolish to throw it away.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38730#post_22534493
> 
> 
> Stefan, I remember trying different cables early on, but I've acquired a couple of others in the meantime - I will try again, thanks. If I might ask, what particular cable are you using? I'll try anything at this point.
> 
> Just curious also, are you using the external power? I am not at the moment, as it didn't seem to need it, and seemingly made no difference with my syncing issue.



I'm just using a generic Chinese cable that comes in a clear bag and cost less than $10. I'm not even using the external power and it works perfectly (direct connection to player). Besides using less outlets this way the Fury gets powered off and starts up clean for each session (I don't trust their firmware).


The cable that caused the Fury not to work was a low-end Monoprice 6ft cable. I thought the HDF2 was defective and almost junked it, since I am actually using that cable on my cable box with no problem! It seems a bit skinnier than the other generic cables in my systems.


----------



## steven2583

Three years ago I had my D2v go dead for 3 days. It happened on a long weekend. Unplugged it. I decided to try it one more time right before I was going to send it back to Anthem. It's been working now for two years. Also I have had my channels go dead. Video worked but no sound out of any channels. I reloaded ARC and everything worked again.



By the way Bob. I checked all my cables and now I have no audio drop out with NAS or shiney disk.


----------



## MrKegFlex

Just experienced the low audio bug on my 50v again last night, it's been a while since the last occurance. Nick mentioned they had found a possible cause, any news on when a fix might be available as a beta?


Thanks!


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Just uploaded v3.09c to beta site. Please contact tech support if you need username/password.


----------



## MrKegFlex

Installed v3.09c, thanks! Hope this fix nails it, will report any problems to Anthem support.


----------



## MStanic

Anyone know anything about HTPC with the Shark codecs? I have my D2v connected to my HTPC using a Radeon 7970 via the HDMI output. I have Bluray movies that are ripped to files using the iTunes format. They play okay but I cannot get the audio to produce properly as I am only getting a 2.0 channel output. I have configured both the X64 and 32 bit (the 32 bit app is for Windows 8) to specify that audio bitstreaming is set to TrueH/DTS HD MA. I am not sure why it doesn't work as I have tried all sorts of config changes but always get 2.0. i'm using the LAV audio and LAV splitter in the specified tabs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*As Nick just posted, "Test" Firmware V3.09c for the D2v and AVM 50v is now posted on Anthem's password protected download page.*


Change notes for changes since the last "Official" release -- V3.09 -- now read as follows:


> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v3.09c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed bug where AVM 50v sometimes powered on with low volume.
> 
> 
> 2. DTS-required changes for pending certification. Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements.




This firmware is for all D2v and AVM 50v units, whether or not you have the 3D upgrade installed.


As always, be aware that "Test" firmware is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises, perhaps even requiring you to roll back to the prior, V3.09, firmware.


ETA: That download also includes a one page (PDF file) addendum to the User Manual, highlighting the settings/operation differences for use of 3D pass through.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22544775
> 
> 
> Anyone know anything about HTPC with the Shark codecs? I have my D2v connected to my HTPC using a Radeon 7970 via the HDMI output. I have Bluray movies that are ripped to files using the iTunes format. They play okay but I cannot get the audio to produce properly as I am only getting a 2.0 channel output. I have configured both the X64 and 32 bit (the 32 bit app is for Windows 8) to specify that audio bitstreaming is set to TrueH/DTS HD MA. I am not sure why it doesn't work as I have tried all sorts of config changes but always get 2.0. i'm using the LAV audio and LAV splitter in the specified tabs.



When you press the Select button several times, what does it say the D2v is receiving for audio input on that HDMI input?

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

It says: PCM, 48 kHz PCM


For Audio Output, it reads 24/192 kHz


Thanks Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22544905
> 
> 
> It says: PCM, 48 kHz PCM
> 
> 
> For Audio Output, it reads 24/192 kHz
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob.



Yes, but how many channels of input is it showing?


Your HTPC may be set as if it is sending audio to a TV. That would typically be a stereo LPCM down-mix (just as is found on the HDMI OUTPUT of the D2v). If the HTPC doesn't decode the lossless Bitstreams, you may need to set it to Bitstream output to get proper multi-channel.

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

It says:


Input:

L R


Format



Output:

L C R Sub


Format:

LS LR RR RS


Take a loo at this link, scroll down to the Audio Tab, and you'll see how I have it set exactly as showin in the pic. i have it set that way for the X64 app and the 32 Windows 8 app.

http://assassinhtpcblog.com/?page_id=39 


Not sure what else to change or do to make this work.


Thanks again Bob.


----------



## MStanic

Okay, I got this to work but not by using LAV Audio. I went and selected to disable LAV Audio which automatially enables FFDSHOW Audio. Then, I selected FFDSHOW Audio and FFDSHOW Decoder in the appropriate tabs as well as Disabling the Microsoft Audio Decoder in the SWAP tab.


I have no clue what FFDSHOW is vs LAV.


Now, cycling through select, I get:


Dolby Digital

448 kbps




Input: L C R LFE

Format: LS RS


Output: L C R Sub

Format: LS LR RR RS


I play Avatar and the D2v shows 5.1+PLIIx for example.


This just confuses me but I guess it works for now.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22544994
> 
> 
> It says:
> 
> Input:
> 
> L R
> 
> Format
> 
> Output:
> 
> L C R Sub
> 
> Format:
> 
> LS LR RR RS
> 
> Take a loo at this link, scroll down to the Audio Tab, and you'll see how I have it set exactly as showin in the pic. i have it set that way for the X64 app and the 32 Windows 8 app.
> http://assassinhtpcblog.com/?page_id=39
> 
> Not sure what else to change or do to make this work.
> 
> Thanks again Bob.



Make sure in your devices that you are not using the windows 8 audio driver for hdmi. It only supports 2 channels. Just went through this myself.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22544775
> 
> 
> Anyone know anything about HTPC with the Shark codecs? I have my D2v connected to my HTPC using a Radeon 7970 via the HDMI output. I have Bluray movies that are ripped to files using the iTunes format. They play okay but I cannot get the audio to produce properly as I am only getting a 2.0 channel output. I have configured both the X64 and 32 bit (the 32 bit app is for Windows 8) to specify that audio bitstreaming is set to TrueH/DTS HD MA. I am not sure why it doesn't work as I have tried all sorts of config changes but always get 2.0. i'm using the LAV audio and LAV splitter in the specified tabs.



You do realize you're not going to get TrueHD or DTS-HD MA in "iTunes format", I tunes doesn't support anything but mp4 which only supports aac audio, maybe DD.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22545055
> 
> 
> Okay, I got this to work but not by using LAV Audio. I went and selected to disable LAV Audio which automatially enables FFDSHOW Audio. Then, I selected FFDSHOW Audio and FFDSHOW Decoder in the appropriate tabs as well as Disabling the Microsoft Audio Decoder in the SWAP tab.
> 
> I have no clue what FFDSHOW is vs LAV.
> 
> Now, cycling through select, I get:
> 
> Dolby Digital
> 
> 448 kbps
> 
> Input: L C R LFE
> 
> Format: LS RS
> 
> Output: L C R Sub
> 
> Format: LS LR RR RS
> 
> I play Avatar and the D2v shows 5.1+PLIIx for example.
> 
> This just confuses me but I guess it works for now.




You need to know that 448 kbps is the lowest audio bit rate available and is used by most average OT tv stations.


----------



## bekindrewind




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bekindrewind*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/36240#post_21785430
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to figure out why I am haveing switching problems.
> 
> 
> Let's say I use my Harmony one remote to turn on my D2v, (D2v turns on the McIntosh MC205) TV and Oppo player. Sometimes everything comes on and works as it should. Sometimes I may have a picture, no sound, eventhough the MC205 got turned on. Sometimes sound no picture. Let's say I started with DVD, get picture no sound. I'll try and select another sorce like TV, wait for it to cycle thru, then back to DVD and find sometime it corrects it and it works, sometimes not. I find I have to turn the D2v off and on, to fix the problem. Do you think one or more of my circuit boards are going bad?



Hi Guys,


I'm revisiting the above question...

'I'm trying to figure out why I am haveing switching problems.'


I found the answer, the fix and wanted to share it with others who may have the same question.


The answer came from [email protected], posted on 07.23.11. THANK YOU NICK!
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1276158/anthem-d2v-audio-drop 



In the source setup (menu 6) what is Auto-Dig set to? Change it to No if it's Yes.


This is the setting that causes audio input format to go to analog (the stereo RCA jacks) if no digital audio from the source is sensed, and was intended only for early digital cable boxes which could not put out audio from analog stations on their digital output and vice versa.


With all other sources Auto-Dig is completely unnecessary and known to result in problems when the source is equipped with HDMI.


If the problem is occurring with Auto-Dig set to No please contact tech support. Details would be needed starting with source model numbers. We do have an Oppo 93 in our test setup and advise that if its software is not up to date, start with that.


----------



## gerard1meehan

Howdy Campers


Got a question. On my D2v3D the unit is recognizing Dolby HD and DTS Master Audio as lossy. Is this correct? I though these codecs were lossless.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22544803
> 
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v3.09c beta:
> 
> *2. DTS-required changes for pending certification. Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements.*



Does that mean the fix for DTS 7.1 side speaker angle has been completely backed-out, or only removed for atypical speaker configurations?


How often does Anthem have to revisit DTS certification?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22546295
> 
> 
> On my D2v3D the unit is recognizing Dolby HD and DTS Master Audio as lossy. Is this correct?



Where do you see this? If you're talking about the "status" page in the video processor menu, I have also found some of this information to be unreliable. I would trust only the front panel display on the unit.


----------



## gerard1meehan

Yes, I am refering to the status page. It just hit me as odd.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22546371
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22544803
> 
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v3.09c beta:
> 
> *2. DTS-required changes for pending certification. Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does that mean the fix for DTS 7.1 side speaker angle has been completely backed-out, or only removed for atypical speaker configurations?
> 
> 
> How often does Anthem have to revisit DTS certification?
Click to expand...


We'll have to see. I suspect it means that if you have a 7.1 speaker configuration, there's nothing special you need do, but if you have a 5.1 speaker configuration then you will likely find it better to use LPCM input instead of Bitstream when playing DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks. DTS -- The Bane of Blu-ray™ -- has really screwed up the decode design for this combo. Since the D2v accepts 7.1 LPCM over HDMI, the player will be doing a 7.1 decode -- thus avoiding the DTS silliness. (The D2v will then down-mix that to your actual speaker configuration.)


When playing TrueHD tracks, LPCM tracks, or 5.1 or lower DTS-HD MA tracks, there's nothing special you need to do regardless of your speaker configuration.


Since the D2v only accepts 5.1 for multi-channel Analog, there is likely also a preference for using HDMI LPCM instead of using either multi-channel Analog or HDMi Bitstream when playing DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks. Same issue, except the DTS silliness is now happening in the player during ITS decode for Analog output. This is certainly true with the OPPO players (for 5.1 Analog Down-mix of DTS-HD MA 7.1 tracks).

--Bob


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38730#post_22535318
> 
> 
> I'm just using a generic Chinese cable that comes in a clear bag and cost less than $10. I'm not even using the external power and it works perfectly (direct connection to player). Besides using less outlets this way the Fury gets powered off and starts up clean for each session (I don't trust their firmware).
> 
> The cable that caused the Fury not to work was a low-end Monoprice 6ft cable. I thought the HDF2 was defective and almost junked it, since I am actually using that cable on my cable box with no problem! It seems a bit skinnier than the other generic cables in my systems.


I attached the cheapest cable I have, and it actully does seemed to have helped, but not totally eliminated the situation. Go figure. So thanks!


I'm wondering if a custom EDID would help. I only need one resolution (1080i), maybe if I locked the HDFury2 into that, it would be fine. Thinking of trying to figure it out with PowerStrip or something.


- Mark


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22545378
> 
> 
> You need to know that 448 kbps is the lowest audio bit rate available and is used by most average OT tv stations.


If you are referring to OTA (over the air) DTV broadcasts, 448 kbps is the _highest_ bitrate. Lower is allowed for both 5.1 and 2.0 audio.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Finally got my post storm, Internet connection working to the point that I could download and install V3.09c.


I've not spotted any new bugs in it. I have a D2v/3D, so I can't test the AVM 50v power on volume bug fix.


The situation for decoding 7.1 DTS-HD MA Bitstream input for 5.1 speakers has me a bit confused at the moment. I'm getting some results that I think are conflicting, but may turn out to be correct. I've got an email in to Nick.


The old DTS-HD MA bug (Side Surround content also appearing in the Fronts on that same side) has *NOT* returned. In addition, volume level across the fronts appears correct, so that old bug ALSO has not returned.


The most noticeable aspect that something has changed is that Bitstream input of the 7.1 DTS-HD MA Channel ID track on AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, gets decoded at -40dB attenuation if you have a 5.1 speaker configuration in the D2v. This is something that AIX authored in deliberately on that track to make sure people could detect that a 5.1 style decode was being done when playing this 7.1 track --i.e., so you could make sure that was only happening when it SHOULD be happening. In the prior firmware, the D2v did a 7.1 style decode and then post-downmixed that to 5.1.


To play that track "the old way", use HDMI LPCM input. Since the D2v accepts 7.1 LPCM over HDMI, the player will do a 7.1 style decode (thus full volume for that track). The D2v will then post-downmix that 7.1 LPCM input to 5.1 for your speakers just as it would do with any 7.1 LPCM input.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The V3.09c firmware sees Bitstream input from "Hairspray", Blu-ray, as 7.1 DTS-HD MA. This is one of the New Line titles that used the Alternate Speaker Presentation stuff -- shifting the Rears around to the sides and moving the Sides forward towards the Fronts.


The prior firmware saw this Bitstream input as 5.1 due to that.


Since I can't A/B compare, there's no easy way for me to tell whether the decode is improved or not for a 5.1 speaker configuration (or 7.1 for that matter).

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22550996
> 
> 
> The most noticeable aspect that something has changed is that Bitstream input of the 7.1 DTS-HD MA Channel ID track on AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, gets decoded at -40dB attenuation if you have a 5.1 speaker configuration in the D2v. This is something that AIX authored in deliberately on that track to make sure people could detect that a 5.1 style decode was being done when playing this 7.1 track --i.e., so you could make sure that was only happening when it SHOULD be happening. In the prior firmware, the D2v did a 7.1 style decode and then post-downmixed that to 5.1.


It sounds like the D2v is now correctly communicating to the BD player that you have a 5.1 speaker setup. The HDMA 7.1 discs have a complete 5.1 mix as part of the lossless stream, and it is better to play that directly rather than the 7.1 and perform downmixing in the processor.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22551986
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22550996
> 
> 
> The most noticeable aspect that something has changed is that Bitstream input of the 7.1 DTS-HD MA Channel ID track on AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, gets decoded at -40dB attenuation if you have a 5.1 speaker configuration in the D2v. This is something that AIX authored in deliberately on that track to make sure people could detect that a 5.1 style decode was being done when playing this 7.1 track --i.e., so you could make sure that was only happening when it SHOULD be happening. In the prior firmware, the D2v did a 7.1 style decode and then post-downmixed that to 5.1.
> 
> 
> 
> It sounds like the D2v is now correctly communicating to the BD player that you have a 5.1 speaker setup. The HDMA 7.1 discs have a complete 5.1 mix as part of the lossless stream, and it is better to play that directly rather than the 7.1 and perform downmixing in the processor.
Click to expand...


I don't think it is possible to communicate that over HDMI.


The player only knows whether the AVR will accept 7.1 LPCM/Bitstream or 5.1 LPCM/Bitstream. The D2v accepts 7.1 regardless of your speaker configuration.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22550648
> 
> 
> If you are referring to OTA (over the air) DTV broadcasts, 448 kbps is the _highest_ bitrate. Lower is allowed for both 5.1 and 2.0 audio.



Well,

Every American Idol show on Fox Tv I have checked is at 640 kbps. I believe 640 kbps is max AC3 audio bitrate for OT television.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22552091
> 
> 
> I don't think it is possible to communicate that over HDMI.
> 
> The player only knows whether the AVR will accept 7.1 LPCM/Bitstream or 5.1 LPCM/Bitstream. The D2v accepts 7.1 regardless of your speaker configuration.


You may be right. All I can say is CEA-861 is not the easiest spec to decipher. It does describe that when PCM is delivered over HDMI to a multi-channel capable sink, the Audio Info Frame maps how the different speakers are allocated to transmission channels (Table 28). It also describes how the source can perform downmixing when the sink does not have all the speakers needed by the content, and inform the sink how much gain reduction was applied. But all this is for PCM, which is not the case at hand wrt the AIX disc.


I get the same result you described from the AIX disc when bitstreaming the 7.1 HDMA track into an SSP-800. It all plays fine when I use a 7.1 speaker setup, but plays -40dB when I use a 5.1 setup. Regardless of the mechanism, that is indeed how the D2v should have done it all along. So it sounds like it is really getting buttoned up nicely now.


Playing that same track in the BDP-93 set to output PCM, the results are different. The 5.1 and 7.1 speaker modes both play at full levels, with the 5.1 case reproducing the rear channels from the side surround speakers. I cannot tell if the downmixing is happening in the player or the SSP, but I suspect the SSP. My display does not carry that detail. Does it read as 7.1 PCM source on the D2v when 5.1 speakers are used?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22552437
> 
> 
> Well,
> 
> Every American Idol show on Fox Tv I have checked is at 640 kbps. I believe 640 kbps is max AC3 audio bitrate for OT television.


640 is the bitrate used when a DD+ program is converted to DD for the S/PDIF output. ATSC is limited to 448. I was at Dolby when we pushed it up to 448. It was originally going to be 384 kbps. Which TV receiver are you using? Is the OTA signal from your antenna, or from cable/satellite?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" Firmware V3.09c: NEW PROBLEM: 6-CH Analog input with a 5.1 speaker configuration shows 7.1 speaker output!*


I have the 6-CH Source set to use Movie configuration, which is my standard 5.1 speaker setup as configured by ARC (AnalogDSP, Room EQ ON, Dolby Volume OFF).


Mode Presets for the 6-CH Source are for NONE processing.


When I play that 6-CH Source, the Mode button displays confirm that NONE processing is in use.


However, the Select button display say that 7.1 speakers are active for output!


This is repeatable.


The problem apparently does not exist with the 2-CH input, or when 5.1 content is played using an HDMI Input.


I've not figured out a good way to verify whether the Side Surround speakers are being negatively affected by this, or whether this is just a silly formatting bug in the Select button displays.


I've sent an email to Nick.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25

I have similar issue, for me sound mutes while playing CD's if TV is OFF. No problem if TV is ON.My unit is with Anthem for this and few other things.


----------



## MStanic

Anybody play MKV's successfully? I am using Bytecopy from Pavfube with the Shark codecs on W8. When it plays, it is awesome pic and sound just like from the disc itself.


Movies like Toy Story 3, 2012, Aliens, Angels & Demons all playback flawlessly.


However, Avatar and the Avengers start flawlessly but then just stop playback about 10 min into each.


Bram Stoker's Dracula jus won't play as it's not recognized.


All copies rip successfully with no errors. I am using WMC for playback.


Any ideas?


----------



## gtx01

Is there any method of having audio input via HDMI without having an HDMI output signal?


I've just purchased a new plasma TV (Panasonic TX-P65ST50B) and want to have my blu-ray player directly connected to the TV with the players second HDMI to my AVM 50v for blu-ray audio and watching DVDs.


If I switch the system on from 'cold' to watch a blu-ray everything seems to work OK, picture is on TV, audio is via AVM. The problem occurs when I switch from another source, i.e. satellite TV or watching a DVD, to blu-ray. It seems the TV gets confused about having a signal on both HDMI inputs and will not lock-on to the blu-ray, the player keeps retrying, dropping both picture and audio. I've tried switching cables and HDMI ports but the result is still the same. Strangely, even if I switch HDMI inputs on the TV the AVM always gets a lock and the blu-ray player doesn't. The only solution seems to be using the AVM 6-ch input for blu-ray audio, but this means the player is doing all the decoding and it seems a waste of the AVMs abilities.


I can find nothing on the TV to stop it auto selecting HDMI inputs. Ideally I'd just like to stop the AVM from outputting an HDMI signal when I'm watching blu-ray but there doesn't seem to be a option for this as you can't select HDMI for just audio, the scaler input must be HDMI as well. Even selecting 'Preferred video Output' to 'Component' doesn't stop a signal on the HDMI output.


Can anyone suggest a solution (that doesn't involve purchasing the 3D upgrade)?









Thanks

Gary


----------



## HighOnBothEnds

Hello guys, I recently purchased an AVM50V 3D and am having a couple of issues. I have sent Anthem the message below but haven't got a reply from them, maybe the email didn't make it to them? I would really appreciate it you could shed some light on the issues listed below.

Email to Anthem:


Hello let me start by saying how much I enjoy your great product, I have switched from a Marantz AV7005 to the AVM 50v 3D and the difference in sound is nothing short of breathtaking.


Unfortunately I have some issues concerning the 3d capabilities of the processor. I have an Oppo bdp93 and a 60" Sony LED that are both 3d capable and have been succesfuly used in 3d video before with the Marantz. With the AVM the 3d signal doesn't seem to make it to the screen, in fact the bluray tells me to insert the disc into a 3d capable system. Having purchased the AVM 50v 3D which clearly states it is 3d and hdmi 1.4 capable I don't understand what could be wrong. When a 3d source is introduced the osd from the avm still shows on the display, this means that it doesn't go into passthrough mode. I have downloaded the latest software v3.09 and my serial number is 148718. Its obviously not the source that is causing the problem because 3d was working with the Marantz. Can you tell what wrong here?


Another question I have is regarding my subwoofer, I have a JL audio Fathom sub which has its own calibration microphone and software. Should I bypass it (defeat button on sub) or leave it on in conjunction with ARC? Also my sub cutoff frequency is set to 80hz on the AVM, should I set it to 80 on the sub also or bring it to the maximum so as to get all the low frequency signal coming from the AVM?


One more issue I have encountered is concerning the xbox360, when the audio output is set to 5.1 on the xbox I get a very loud machine gunning staticky kind of sound. I have to set the output to 2 channels to make it go away. This also isn't normal why wouldn't the AVM correctly read the 5.1 signal from the xbox but is fine reading it from all other sources?


Also when switching hdmi sources I seem to get an occasional grainy flicker on the picture, especially if an unused background source is active and transmitting a signal. Can this be prevented?


My last question is regarding the hdmi output sending an audio signal to my tv. When the tv volume is up I get sound from my speakers and my tv, is there any way to remove the hdmi audio signal from being output from the AVM?


Please help me with these issues because otherwise the processor is a gem.


I thank you in advance for your prompt help.


Well guys that about wraps up the email I ve sent Anthem, I am a bit dissapointed that they haven't replied especially considering their stellar customer support...


Thanks in advance for the help


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Anybody play MKV's successfully? I am using Bytecopy from Pavfube with the Shark codecs on W8. When it plays, it is awesome pic and sound just like from the disc itself.
> 
> 
> Movies like Toy Story 3, 2012, Aliens, Angels & Demons all playback flawlessly.
> 
> 
> However, Avatar and the Avengers start flawlessly but then just stop playback about 10 min into each.
> 
> 
> Bram Stoker's Dracula jus won't play as it's not recognized.
> 
> 
> All copies rip successfully with no errors. I am using WMC for playback.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



Try MakeMKV, that's what I use. Every rip has played fine, but I use MPC HC and ffdshow on W7. My front end is Media Browser running in WMC.


----------



## gerard1meehan

OK,


On your #D issue. Go tot eh programing menu and select source set up. you will see "b. vid out CNFG:" for 3d this must be set to Through


----------



## gerard1meehan

And I should use spell check!


----------



## HighOnBothEnds

Gerard1 thanks alot I had it set to video out: config 1. Hadnt thought of that







. So when watching 3D do I have to manually switch between config 1 and through or is there a way for the AVM to automatically do it?


----------



## HighOnBothEnds

Nope didn't quite work







I just put the Tron 3D Bluray and the onscreen display on the AVM correctly writes 3D and the TV says 3D signal detected but there s no image all I get is sound. Its a step up from before but still no video...


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38760#post_22558506
> 
> 
> I can find nothing on the TV to stop it auto selecting HDMI inputs. Ideally I'd just like to stop the AVM from outputting an HDMI signal when I'm watching blu-ray but there doesn't seem to be a option for this as you can't select HDMI for just audio, the scaler input must be HDMI as well.



Gary, you've got me stumped. Can you find a setting in the TV called something like HDMI CONTROL and make sure it is off?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HighOnBothEnds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38790#post_22559086
> 
> 
> Gerard1 thanks alot I had it set to video out: config 1. Hadnt thought of that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So when watching 3D do I have to manually switch between config 1 and through or is there a way for the AVM to automatically do it?



To avoid repeating the configuration steps, setup two sources with identical settings except for the "video output config" and just toggle between them by pressing the DVD button (eg: DVD1 = video out config 1, DVD2 = through).


----------



## gerard1meehan

You got me with that one, No Idea why you are not getting a picture. Perhaps an HDMI issue or perhaps an NTSC vs PAL region issue.


But as for manually switching AVfile is correct just set up the two sources.


----------



## HighOnBothEnds

Yes hadn't hought of that thanks. Also Anthem were kind enough to reply a couple of hours ago and they advised that I set one input for Bluray with 1920x1080p/24, another with 1920x1080p/60 for DVD, and a 3rd one with passthrough mode for 3D. I have also set the Oppo BDP93 to source direct output. It sure makes things easier without having to go into the menus of the AVM. Now if I could only get the 3D to work... I don't think its a region (ntsc/pal) issue because the TV is multisystem and 3D with the same DVD and source worked fine with the Marantz. I also get sound but it is clipped every 10 seconds or so, but no picture at all.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HighOnBothEnds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38790#post_22560076
> 
> 
> Yes hadn't hought of that thanks. Also Anthem were kind enough to reply a couple of hours ago and they advised that I set one input for Bluray with 1920x1080p/24, another with 1920x1080p/60 for DVD, and a 3rd one with passthrough mode for 3D. I have also set the Oppo BDP93 to source direct output. It sure makes things easier without having to go into the menus of the AVM. Now if I could only get the 3D to work... I don't think its a region (ntsc/pal) issue because the TV is multisystem and 3D with the same DVD and source worked fine with the Marantz. I also get sound but it is clipped every 10 seconds or so, but no picture at all.



Sounds like you are getting constant HDMI retries -- possibly due to copy protection failure. I.e., a cabling quality issue.


Just to eliminate the obvious: For 3D the player must be connected to one of the top row of HDMI Inputs -- HDMI 1-4. And the Display must be connected to the upper of the two HDMI Outputs.


For the BDP-93, use its HDMI 1 output for video. That's the connector that's towards the middle of the back panel.

--Bob


----------



## gtx01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38790#post_22559428
> 
> 
> Gary, you've got me stumped. Can you find a setting in the TV called something like HDMI CONTROL and make sure it is off?



I've been through the TV manual, and tried a few options I thought might work, but there doesn't seem to be anything which controls HDMI manual input.


The one thing that really confuses me is what the Anthem is putting out over the HDMI which overrides the blu-ray player. Even when I switch the cables in the TV HDMI ports the Anthem remains steady whichever port it's in and the blu-ray doesn't.


----------



## rsinclair

I don't often use the Headphone jack on my d2v, but tonight when I tried it for the first time in several months (and, coincidentally, the first time since I upgraded the firmware), I'm hearing variable noise and static coming from the headphone jack.


I tested my headphones on another system (headphone jack on external pre-amp on my computer) and they were crystal clear, as usual. But in the d2v, I'm hearing noise that makes wearing the headphones impossible. The noise seems to come from any active input (I tried my Xbox 360 via HDMI and Cable via component) and hear the same noise. There is NO noise or static when the source isn't outputting any sound (such as a pause or lull between music tracks.)


Are there any settings I can try to adjust? Was this potentially caused by the firmware upgrade? When I upgraded the firmware, I also started experiencing a bug on my Xbox 360 input—very frequently when switching to that input, I get a loud, systematically repeating noise. If I power down the d2v and power it up, sometimes it goes away, sometimes it doesn't (same if I switch away to another input and switch back).


If this couldn't be caused by a firmware upgrade and there are no settings that I can change, am I looking at having to get a repair done? I've only used the headphone jack maybe 10 times in the past 2+ years.


Thanks,

Robert


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsinclair*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38790#post_22561283
> 
> 
> I don't often use the Headphone jack on my d2v, but tonight when I tried it for the first time in several months (and, coincidentally, the first time since I upgraded the firmware), I'm hearing variable noise and static coming from the headphone jack.
> 
> 
> I tested my headphones on another system (headphone jack on external pre-amp on my computer) and they were crystal clear, as usual. But in the d2v, I'm hearing noise that makes wearing the headphones impossible. The noise seems to come from any active input (I tried my Xbox 360 via HDMI and Cable via component) and hear the same noise. There is NO noise or static when the source isn't outputting any sound (such as a pause or lull between music tracks.)
> 
> 
> Are there any settings I can try to adjust? Was this potentially caused by the firmware upgrade? When I upgraded the firmware, I also started experiencing a bug on my Xbox 360 input—very frequently when switching to that input, I get a loud, systematically repeating noise. If I power down the d2v and power it up, sometimes it goes away, sometimes it doesn't (same if I switch away to another input and switch back).
> 
> 
> If this couldn't be caused by a firmware upgrade and there are no settings that I can change, am I looking at having to get a repair done? I've only used the headphone jack maybe 10 times in the past 2+ years.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Robert



It wouldn't hurt to download a fresh copy of the firmware and re-install it.


As usual, prior to the installation you will Save your settings and Reload Factory Defaults.


After the install, and BEFORE you restore your Saved settings. Try the Headphones using the FM/AM Source. MAKE SURE THE HEADPHONE PLUG IS FULLY INSERTED IN THE SOCKET.


(If the noise is gone, then Reload your Saved Settings and try again. It is possible, but not likely that there's something wrong in your Settings, so if the noise comes back with your real Settings then Reload Factory Defaults again and manually re-enter your Settings -- checking now and again while doing that to make sure the problem hasn't returned.)


If you still have the noise after the firmware re-install and with Factory Defaults, then the next step is going to be a bit of a nuisance, but you need to eliminate the possibility that the Headphone output is picking up interference from some external source (e.g., over your cables).


So mark your cables for easy reconnection later and disconnect EVERYTHING from the D2v.


Now take the D2v to a different room (different wall power circuit) and plug in JUST the power cord and the Headphones. Once again, try the FM/AM Source. If you still have the Headphone noise then your D2v needs service.


If the noise is gone, then bring the D2v back to its normal location and start reconnecting things a bit at a time, pausing to recheck for the Headphone noise. The idea is to find out which cabling is carrying the interference.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gtx01*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38790#post_22560127
> 
> 
> I've been through the TV manual, and tried a few options I thought might work, but there doesn't seem to be anything which controls HDMI manual input.
> 
> The one thing that really confuses me is what the Anthem is putting out over the HDMI which overrides the blu-ray player. Even when I switch the cables in the TV HDMI ports the Anthem remains steady whichever port it's in and the blu-ray doesn't.



I would definitely be onto Panasonic about this. It's still early days for your TV and they might have a firmware update forthcoming. There are lots of people here who used their D2v for audio only and video direct from BDP to TV before the "3D upgrade" came along. Perhaps they (DR HANKZ?) can chime in as to whether they ALSO had the D2v connected to the TV at the same time.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HighOnBothEnds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38790#post_22559086
> 
> 
> Gerard1 thanks alot I had it set to video out: config 1. Hadnt thought of that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So when watching 3D do I have to manually switch between config 1 and through or is there a way for the AVM to automatically do it?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HighOnBothEnds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38790#post_22559245
> 
> 
> Nope didn't quite work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just put the Tron 3D Bluray and the onscreen display on the AVM correctly writes 3D and the TV says 3D signal detected but there s no image all I get is sound. Its a step up from before but still no video...



Please go back and make sure you have THROUGH selected. Sometimes when you back out of the menu hastily the changes are not committed.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HighOnBothEnds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38790#post_22560076
> 
> 
> Yes hadn't hought of that thanks. Also Anthem were kind enough to reply a couple of hours ago and they advised that I set one input for Bluray with 1920x1080p/24, another with 1920x1080p/60 for DVD, and a 3rd one with passthrough mode for 3D. I have also set the Oppo BDP93 to source direct output.



If you enable the DVD 24p in the OPPO with recent firmware then film-based DVDs can also use the "input for Bluray with 1920x1080p/24".


----------



## rsinclair

Hi Bob, I took your advice and did a fresh re-install of 3.09. Unfortunately the problem persists. I'm actually more bothered by the audio problem I'm having on my Xbox HDMI input than the headphone crackling, given I switch to my Xbox input way more often than I wear headphones. (I understand cabling is usually the culprit with HDMI issues, but I'm actually using known-good HDMI cables sent to me BY Anthem, back when my dealer was first trying to troubleshoot my input switching issues when it was first installed.)


7 times out of 10 when I switch to the Xbox input, I get an extremely loud and repeating noise (hard to describe, but it's definitely a looping sound of short, loud "pulses" that send me scrambling for the remote to switch away from input. Switching back and forth to another input and back to Xbox eventually remedies the problem, but this definitely only started happening after the firmware update.


Unfortunately the crackling audio with headphones is still there at all. Curiously, after the reinstall, I get virtually no volume when I plug headphones in (which worked just fine about 6 months ago when I last used them.) In fact, I have to crank up the volume to -5dB on the d2v just to get the volume to a listenable level, but of course that's when the crackling occurs as well. Before this reinstall, I didn't have to crank up the volume quite as much, maybe to -20dB for a listenable volume.


When I tried the headphones with Factory Defaults loaded, I almost don't get any audio at all, which is strange. I don't get any AM/FM stations so I can't test for crackling on that input, but I switched to my PS3 input which still showed a picture with Factory Defaults, and if I cranked the volume all the way up to -0dB, I could BARELY hear the Key Tones as you move from menu item to menu item in the PS3 menus. And, even stranger, if I go to one of the Preview screens for an installed game (which typically automatically begin to play music), all of the BASS channel bypasses my headphones altogether and went directly to my subwoofer! And, at -0dB, this was not a pleasant surprise. I'm surprised my windows didn't shatter.


When I loaded my User Settings again, the crackling returned at regular Headphone volume, as did the loud/repeating noise tone on the Xbox input (can hear it through headphones and without.)


My shelf setup makes disconnecting and experimenting with further isolation of the d2v difficult at best, but I'm rebuilding my cabinet this week to allow for easier access, so I'll try the remaining experiments later.


I have to say that although I love the audio/video quality of the d2v, in the past 2 years that I've owned it, I am really disappointed with its technical performance. Between Shocking Pink screens and blank screens when switching inputs, and now these inexplicable audio problems with headphones and HDMI audio on one particular input, the device has become a chore to use. I've absolutely never had this amount of grief from a piece of A/V electronics. It says quite a lot when a $299 A/V receivers from Big Box stores technically perform flawlessly compared to my experience with the d2v. Now that I know what living with the d2v is like, I would choose another brand if I could.


I also sent an email to Anthem Tech Support and have yet to hear back... which doesn't really help my feeling of discontent when I have to rely on generous users of a website forum to get help and advice.


-R


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Well it sounds like you may have a hardware problem for the Headphone output. I doubt that's related to your XBOX problem, but when a portion of the hardware is faulty, it's hard to know.


On the XBOX problem, are you using Bitstream of LPCM audio input? Have you tried them both?


You've checked to see that the firmware in the XBOX is up to date, right?

--Bob


----------



## rsinclair

Hi Bob, regarding the Xbox problem, Xboxes don't allow you to control the method of output between Bitstream or LPCM. Only the PlayStation 3 has that audio setting available. The Xbox is set to output Dolby Digital sound, via HDMI.


-R


----------



## rsinclair

Update on the crackling sound: my dealer contacted Anthem support and they suggested confirming that Dolby Volume was OFF on the affected input. I checked and sure enough Dolby Volume was enabled, so I turned it Off and it seems to have fixed the crackling sound issue over headphones!


This would make sense since Dolby Volume was only introduced to my unit once I updated the firmware, and I didn't start experiencing the sound problem until after updating the firmware.


I still have to crank up the volume unusually high (-10dB) when using headphones, whereas with speakers I generally have it set to about -30dB, but I'd rather have to crank up the volume when using headphones than continue dealing with the crackling. It's getting late so I'm not able to see if this adjustment will also address the loud repeating sound I started to frequently experience when switching to the Xbox input, but if Dolby Volume in the new firmware was the culprit wreaking havoc on my setup, then perhaps it was contributing to this other issue as well (fingers crossed.)


-R


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsinclair*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38790#post_22564368
> 
> 
> Hi Bob, regarding the Xbox problem, Xboxes don't allow you to control the method of output between Bitstream or LPCM. Only the PlayStation 3 has that audio setting available. The Xbox is set to output Dolby Digital sound, via HDMI.
> 
> -R



I have the same problem with my 50v running Ver 3.09c. It did start with Ver 3.09. I changed the audio setting in Xbox to Stereo and it hasn't happened since. Not the best solution, but so far the only thing I found that works. I've done the cable swap thing and played with some settings on both units, but by no means all of the relevant ones. Still some investigation to do when I get the time.


----------



## HighOnBothEnds

Hi Bob and AVfile thanks for your input, yes I did check all the connectivity and settings issues and they are all as should be. Bob I don't think its a cabling issue because I used the same cabling with the marantz and 3D was working just fine. It does feel like the AVM is repeatedly trying to output a 3D image because the sound goes on and off, and the tv says 3d detected a couple of times in a row... For the xbox issue I set the output to 2 channel on the xbox and the repeating noise went away. AVfile from what I gather if I activate the oppo s 24p output, I do not need to use 60p on the avm for watching dvds is that right? So even for a normal dvd I can use the 24p bluray setup on the avm.

Thanks again guys


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HighOnBothEnds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38790#post_22568448
> 
> 
> I don't think its a cabling issue because I used the same cabling with ...



Forbidden words around here!



> Quote:
> AVfile from what I gather if I activate the oppo s 24p output, I do not need to use 60p on the avm for watching dvds is that right? So even for a normal dvd I can use the 24p bluray setup on the avm.



Yes for film-based DVDs. For concert videos, featurettes, poorly mastered trailers and other video material you will want 60Hz.


----------



## Thxtheater

Has anyone installed the 3.09b release that fixes the audio on startup but on the 50v? I'm going to do an upgrade later and wanted to see if any issues have arisen thus far.


Thanks,

Theo


----------



## AVfile

^ yes 3.09c here on 50v and it works well.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Found another glitch in V3.09c. I've not actually reverted back to V3.09 to confirm this is new, but my memory is that V3.09 did not have this problem.

*PROBLEM: If you use HDMI Bitstream input of a 2.0 Dolby TrueHD track, the D2v sees that as 5.1 Dolby TrueHD.*


It's not clear whether the D2v is telling the player it can't accept 2.0, so the player is packaging that as 5.1 for output, or whether this is just a reporting bug on the D2v for what is actually 2.0 input.


The result SOUNDS FINE -- with output only on LF/RF (and Subwoofer due to ARC). However, since the D2v believes it is dealing with 5.1 input, it won't let you apply Audio Surround Modes that are only available for 2.0 input. For example, you can't impose Mono surround mode to collapse the typical dual-channel Mono audio used with old time movies into just Center speaker output. Nor PLIIx to generate sound for the Surround speakers.


The workaround is to set your player to use HDMI LPCM output when playing such a track. That will come in as 2.0 LPCM, and the audio surround Modes will now be available.


NOTE: This is a pretty rare track format, as most of the studios are using 2.0 DTS-HD MA these days for cases like this.



To the poster above wondering about V3.09c, there are a couple minor glitches like this I've encountered in V3.09c. For example, if you use the 6-Channel Analog input source, the D2v says it is producing audio for 7.1 speakers output even if you only have 5.1 speakers configured. That too, I suspect to be just a reporting bug rather than something that actually affects audio quality.


So far, I know of no major reasons to hold off using V3.09c if you want to get that AVM 50v power on volume bug fix. And of course, if something should crop up, you can revert back to V3.09 if you've stashed a copy of the installer for that.

--Bob


----------



## icequeen


Room Measurements 1.bmp 3840k .bmp file


----------



## icequeen


Room Measurements 2.bmp 3840k .bmp file


----------



## icequeen

If someone could give me a little advice on these measurements...Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38790#post_22573148
> 
> 
> If someone could give me a little advice on these measurements...Thanks



When posting charts, also capture ARC's Targets window and post that, as there's important information in there as well. Also if you post the images as JPEG files it will make it a little easier for folks here to view them.


The major problem with this pair of charts is the dip either side of 60Hz in the Measurements for your Subwoofer. As you can see from the residual error -- the difference between the green Calculated curve and the dashed-black Targets curve, that was more error than ARC could correct. (ARC will only provide so much boost to fill a dip so as not to damage your Amp/Speaker -- in this case the Amp built into the Subwoofer.


Now this sort of problem in the Sub is almost always something most easily addressed by repositioning the Subwoofer. At these frequencies, even inches can make a difference.


You can use the Quick Measure tool -- found in ARC's Tools menu -- to get a handle in real time what's happening to the uncorrected Subwoofer output as you shift it around. Just remember that you need to re-run the ARC Measurement / Calculate / Upload process again afterwards. Basically what you are looking for is a Sub positioning that fills in that dip. What Quick Measure will show you is a live-updated version of the red Measured curve for one speaker (the Sub in your case) for one mic location. As a refinement, you can also shift the mic around while this is going on to make sure your new, candidate Sub location is working equally well across your range or ARC mic locations. Expect some difference between the mic locations -- that's normal. But look to fill in much of that dip with the new Sub positioning. You don't have to eliminate ALL of it. If you can reduce the dip, ARC will take care of the rest.


While you are at it, check that you have disabled any internal Crossover in your Sub -- or at least cranked it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. Don't use a "THX" setting as that will likely impose an 80Hz Crossover. ARC does the Crossover processing, so you don't want the Sub to ALSO be trying to do that itself.


Your main speaker show a bit of a roll-off at the highest frequencies. This can be due to lots of things (including mic response) and the amount is not that bad, but you should double check your speaker pointing as treble frequencies are more directional. If your speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, then it may be the VERTICAL pointing of the speakers that's important. For Left Front / Right Front, don't point them directly at your center seating. Swing them around only part way from perpendicular to the screen towards that center (ARC mic #1) location. The typical Rule of Thumb is to swing them only 1/3 of the way from pointing straight to the back of the room towards that center seating.


Check the speaker volume trims ARC has uploaded for you (Setup > Level Calibration). They should all be within a few dB either side of 0dB. If the Subwoofer in particular is getting a lot of adjustment, then you should probably raise or lower the volume knob on the sub a bit before your next ARC Measurement run to reduce that. I.e., if the Sub is being assigned large negative trim, then its output is too loud, so lower its volume knob a bit before you re-Measure.


The basic volume level of your ARC solution is about 60dB. That's lower than the 75dB usually recommended. What you are seeing may just be due to chart formatting, but you can check that before your next ARC run by doing the exercise to set the Test Noise Level in Setup > Level Calibration. While doing that you can set your Sub's volume knob as well.


Zero ALL the lines in Level Calibration. Set Manual test mode in the first line. Scroll down to the next line (Test/Noise Level). The test tone will be coming from the Left Front speaker. Use an SPL meter at ARC mic position #1 to see what that's producing and adjust the setting in that Test/Noise line to get 75dB SPL. Leave all the other settings at 0. Now go down to either Subwoofer line and -- still leaving that line at 0 -- adjust the volume knob on the sub to also produce 75dB SPL. You only have to do this once. ARC preserves that Test/Noise Level line when Uploads the other lines, and of course ARC also doesn't alter the volume knob on your Sub. Now go re-Measure for ARC and ARC will Upload the proper volume trims and should also build a solution closer to 75dB.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38790#post_22573132
> 
> Room Measurements 1.bmp 3840k .bmp file





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38790#post_22573146
> 
> Room Measurements 2.bmp 3840k .bmp file





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38790#post_22573148
> 
> 
> If someone could give me a little advice on these measurements...Thanks


All of your charts look very good except for your subwoofer. Check to make sure you don't have any filters are crossovers engaged on your sub. You are losing over 20db from 30 Hz to 50 Hz. The goal is to have the Measured Response as flat as possible from 20 Hz to 100 Hz. It looks like you will have to move your sub around to different locations to try to get a smooth response. You can use Quick Measure (QM) as you move your sub around. Once you find a location that gives you better results, you will have to rerun ARC.


----------



## icequeen


target window.bmp 3840k .bmp file


----------



## icequeen

WOW great Idea on the Quick Measurement Tool! Thanks Guys


As far as the subs - I have (2) Sig Servo Paradigm Subs, and I cranked them up to the highest possible frequency to get them out of the way … I tuned them separately to 71db per Paradigm's Manual on my RadioShack Meter and got a response slightly higher than 75db..prob 77db together…They do sound a bit hot in my initial listening!

I also did that Paradigm Phase check with FM, I'm not convinced that is the best way.

How would you suggest that I move the subs around methodically, to get the best results with quick measure. I had my dealer come in and set them because of their weight. My cables are only so long, so my ability to move them is somewhat futile!! lol


----------



## icequeen

THanks BOB! Sorry not sure how to do that JPG thing??


----------



## icequeen

Bob... I think your on to something.. Yeah! Here are my Levels in JPEG hopefully


----------



## icequeen

Couldn't get JPEG to work but here are levels


Noise Ref -6.0...was wondering if P5 amp should be attenuated to -6db for XLR's with D2)

Front L +1.5

Center +1.0

Front R +1.5

Sur R 0.0

Rear R -1.5

Rear L -0.5

Sur L 0.0

Movie Sub -9.5

Music Sub -8.0


Thanks Guys for the Help!


----------



## icequeen

Here are my sub settings on back of both Subs


Servo's Level,10:30 postion

Phase set at 0 (could this help, my 60HZ problem???)

Contour (60Hz boost) set at 0

Croosover at highest setting


I am not use to this forumn...so I have made multiple posts...!


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22573337
> 
> 
> WOW great Idea on the Quick Measurement Tool! Thanks Guys
> 
> As far as the subs - I have (2) Sig Servo Paradigm Subs, and I cranked them up to the highest possible frequency to get them out of the way … I tuned them separately to 71db per Paradigm's Manual on my RadioShack Meter and got a response slightly higher than 75db..prob 77db together…They do sound a bit hot in my initial listening!
> 
> I also did that Paradigm Phase check with FM, I'm not convinced that is the best way.
> 
> How would you suggest that I move the subs around methodically, to get the best results with quick measure. I had my dealer come in and set them because of their weight. My cables are only so long, so my ability to move them is somewhat futile!! lol





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22573422
> 
> 
> Couldn't get JPEG to work but here are levels
> 
> Noise Ref -6.0...was wondering if P5 amp should be attenuated to -6db for XLR's with D2)
> 
> Front L +1.5
> 
> Center +1.0
> 
> Front R +1.5
> 
> Sur R 0.0
> 
> Rear R -1.5
> 
> Rear L -0.5
> 
> Sur L 0.0
> 
> Movie Sub -9.5
> 
> Music Sub -8.0
> 
> Thanks Guys for the Help!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22573466
> 
> 
> Here are my sub settings on back of both Subs
> 
> Servo's Level,10:30 postion
> 
> Phase set at 0 (could this help, my 60HZ problem???)
> 
> Contour (60Hz boost) set at 0
> 
> Croosover at highest setting
> 
> I am not use to this forumn...so I have made multiple posts...!


It looks like your subs are canceling each other out. You might want to try an experiment. Turn one of your subs off and run ARC with just one sub and then look at your graph. That should be a good indication if they are canceling each other out. The only thing about having 2 or more subs is that you have to make sure that you position them so that they play nice together meaning that they don't cancel each other out. Also, your subs are turned up way too high -9.5 and -8.0. You want your speaker and sub trims to be just a few db +/- 0. So, using the volume KNOB ON YOUR SUB, turn down the volume. The speaker trims for your other speakers are fine.


As for your amp, if you are using XLR connections between your D2v and your amp, then I think it's recommended that your amp setting should be -6db.


----------



## icequeen

Thanks for that experimant idea on a Friday Night!~ I am glued to THis trying resolve and enjoy some music! .......and will try one sub vs two!

As for the Amp, it has only 0db for XLR or -6db. I am afraid my system reference setting in my speaker level is too high!

Notice it is set to -6db as the Noise Ref to start....Any Ideas anybody??? Ugh


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It could very well be that you are getting cancellation between the two subs. You can use Quick Measure tool to check that as well. Simply run one sub at a time for initial positioning of each, and then run the at the same time to see if the cancellation is happening.


The cancellation happens because the subs are not matched in Polarity and Phase. The usual Rule of Thumb for Polarity is to set it (in controls on each sub -- NOT the setting in the D2) to "normal" for a Sub in the front of the room and "inverted" for a Sub in the rear of the room. After doing that, and after setting your speaker distances (for the Subs use the average of their two distances from ARC Mic position #1), then you ALSO need to adjust the Phase for each Sub.


The usual trick is to power one Sub at a time and match its Phase to the Left Front speaker. When both Subs are in Phase with Left Front then they are also in Phase with each other.


One method for adjusting Phase is to use the FM / AM Source tuned to the noise between stations. Play that using STEREO Audio Surround Mode. Audio will be coming out of LR/RF and also out of Sub due to Crossover processing. Now adjust the Phase control on the powered Sub to maximize the bass you hear at ARC Mic position #1. Switch which Sub is powered and do the other Sub the same way using ITS Phase control.


The 0dB vs. -6dB XLR Input adjustment on the Amp is only relevant if you are trying to mix XLR and RCA connectors. The XLR connectors are 6dB hotter. If all the connectors are the same you can use either one and set the level using the Test/Noise Level in the D2's Level Calibration menu.


Since your test level is about -6db, you could use the -6dB attenuation in the amp to accomplish the same thing.


It does look like you need to adjust the volume knob on the Subs. With two Subs, do the exercise i described above with ONE SUB POWERED at a time. Set each sub to 72dB SPL. When played together, that will give you roughly 75dB SPL (close enough that ARC can take it from there).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22573351
> 
> 
> THanks BOB! Sorry not sure how to do that JPG thing??



There are lots of ways to do this, but what I do is use the Windows command to Capture Active Window to Clip Board. I'd have to check, but I think that's ALT-F4.


Then also bring up Windows Paint (a utility that comes with Windows). Paste into that, and then Save As. When you do that you'll be able to select the file format for the Save. JPEG file format works well with AVS.


When you post a message you can use the IMAGE button (in the formatting strip above the text type in box) to include those JPEG images in your post (i.e., they'll be Uploaded to AVS so you no longer need keep them on your computer). Use the Preview button to check how it will look before you Submit your post.

--Bob


----------



## jrisles

I have recently taken possession of an Anthem Statement D2v and the first thing i did was attempt to update to the lateste firmware. The current version was 2.10c and i downloaded the latest version 3.09 and it connected ok to the processor using the RS-232 serial connector on the processor with a RS-232 to USB converter into my laptop.


When i ran the upgrade program it recognised the processor the first part was successful (which i couldn't quite see in the status bar as it all happened so quickly) then the next step which was analysing the EEPROM software before it updated it stayed in what seemed to be in a "hung" state for about 5 minutes before i received an error message indicating the EEPROM update failed.


Now i can't even turn on the unit? Where to from here? Please don't tell me i have to send it back to the manufacturer in Canada? I live in Australia and this will be a real pain if that is the case.


Anyone have any suggestions about how to resolve this problem on this unit?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22574422
> 
> 
> I have recently taken possession of an Anthem Statement D2v and the first thing i did was attempt to update to the lateste firmware. The current version was 2.10c and i downloaded the latest version 3.09 and it connected ok to the processor using the RS-232 serial connector on the processor with a RS-232 to USB converter into my laptop.
> 
> 
> When i ran the upgrade program it recognised the processor the first part was successful (which i couldn't quite see in the status bar as it all happened so quickly) then the next step which was analysing the EEPROM software before it updated it stayed in what seemed to be in a "hung" state for about 5 minutes before i received an error message indicating the EEPROM update failed.
> 
> 
> Now i can't even turn on the unit? Where to from here? Please don't tell me i have to send it back to the manufacturer in Canada? I live in Australia and this will be a real pain if that is the case.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions about how to resolve this problem on this unit?



Get in touch with Anthem tech support and they can tell you how to download the Flash Eraser utility. This is a Windows utility program that communicates over that same RS-232 cable and resets all the programmable parts in the D2v back to a state where you can redo the failed firmware install. After a Flash Erase you still won't be able to power up the unit, but you should be able to do the firmware install anyway.


I don't know which USB to Serial adapter you are using, but the one that seems to be the most problem-free is the Keyspan/Tripp-Lite USA-19HS adapter which is pretty widely available.

--Bob


----------



## jrisles




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22574426
> 
> 
> Get in touch with Anthem tech support and they can tell you how to download the Flash Eraser utility. This is a Windows utility program that communicates over that same RS-232 cable and resets all the programmable parts in the D2v back to a state where you can redo the failed firmware install. After a Flash Erase you still won't be able to power up the unit, but you should be able to do the firmware install anyway.
> 
> I don't know which USB to Serial adapter you are using, but the one that seems to be the most problem-free is the Keyspan/Tripp-Lite USA-19HS adapter which is pretty widely available.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks - i have jst sent them a message.


As for USB to Serial i have his one

http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Serial-Converter-Cable-GUC232A/dp/B000067VB7/ref=pd_sim_e_7 


IOGEAR GU232A


regards

Jeff


----------



## icequeen

Thanks BOB!... I will make some adjustemnts and get back here with the results!


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22574514
> 
> 
> Thanks - i have jst sent them a message.
> 
> As for USB to Serial i have his one
> http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Serial-Converter-Cable-GUC232A/dp/B000067VB7/ref=pd_sim_e_7
> 
> IOGEAR GU232A
> 
> regards
> 
> Jeff



As Bob stated this is the Anthem recommended serial adapter. You are risking repeated problems when using anything else.

http://www.amazon.com/Keyspan-USA-19HS-Hi-Speed-supports-Sequence/dp/B0000VYJRY/ref=pd_cp_e_2


----------



## icequeen

Ok...Now I'm experiencing another problem.. I hooked up the Denon 5910 via HDMI and for some reason I cannot get SACD's to play either on HDMI or Anolog Direct...I have the player connected both on the 5.1 Analogs and HDMI. I also still have a digital coax hooked- up. The player will play movies over HDMI both I cannot get high Rez audio ie. SACD from it? It is strange and was working before analog.. Any Suggestions??


----------



## icequeen

OK... Phew! I have the Analogs working again for SACD...but I cannot get SACD from the 5910 to D2 udsing HDMI?? all other formats will play such as DVD-A, DTS Music, CD's but not SACD? Any Thoughts??


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22575204
> 
> 
> OK... Phew! I have the Analogs working again for SACD...but I cannot get SACD from the 5910 to D2 udsing HDMI?? all other formats will play such as DVD-A, DTS Music, CD's but not SACD? Any Thoughts??



Is the player set to convert to LPCM. You can't bitstream the DSD signal to the D2v


----------



## shah993

I am trying to setup a new Dv2 3d and cannot get the ARC to work.I get an error stating that the microphone is not able to recognize the sound and error 0x03.I contacted support and they told me to make sure rears box is unchecked and the outputs for the surround speakers are in the right place (I am doing only 5.1).Do not know what else to do.The serial adapter is the keyspan which was supplied with the processor.I have emailed support again but in the mean time if anybody has any other suggestions I will appreciate.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22575594
> 
> 
> I am trying to setup a new Dv2 3d and cannot get the ARC to work.I get an error stating that the microphone is not able to recognize the sound and error 0x03.I contacted support and they told me to make sure rears box is unchecked and the outputs for the surround speakers are in the right place (I am doing only 5.1).Do not know what else to do.The serial adapter is the keyspan which was supplied with the processor.I have emailed support again but in the mean time if anybody has any other suggestions I will appreciate.



Are you getting sound from ANY speakers when you tell ARC to Measure? I'm going to guess that you are getting sound from Left Front, Center, and Right Front and then the error happens.


This happens because ARC thinks it ought to be hearing sound from a speaker but nothing is being heard. The usual reason for this is because you have told ARC to measure a speaker you don't actually have hooked up.


First, check your connections. In a 5.1 speaker configuration, the two Surround speakers should be connected to the SIDE Surround outputs of the D2v -- not the REAR Surround outputs -- REGARDLESS of how far back you've physically placed them in the room.


Second, make sure your amps are turning on. If you've got the amps set to come out of standby automatically -- a "trigger" of some sort -- change that so that the amps stay on ALL the time. You can get your trigger setup corrected later.


Go into Setup > Level Calibration on the D2v. Set Manual test mode in the first line, then scroll down the lines and make sure sound is coming from the correct speakers and also that the two Rear speaker lines are marked NA for not available. (The Test Level and Dolby lines will come out of the Left Front speaker, the same as happens with the Left Front speaker's own line.) Press Back to get out of the test tones.


That will show (1) you've wired to the correct outputs, and (2) your amps are turning on.


Now try running ARC Measurement again. Prior to starting the test tones, ARC will put up some check boxes asking what speakers you have. Be sure those are marked correctly. In particular, since you have a 5.1 configuration you do not have REAR speakers.


NOTE: For ARC to get as far as producing the error message you report, the serial cable and Keyspan adapter are likely working. However, if you are using the Serial port on the D2v for remote control of the D2v you my have changed a setting in the RS-232 section of Setup that is preventing ARC from controlling the D2v correctly. Check your settings against the defaults shown in the picture of that menu in the Manual.

--Bob


----------



## tranle

Hi, It has been a while that I have not run ARC on my D2.

What was the trick to do 1 measurement but have different number of speakers for your movie and music configuration ?


Thanks.


----------



## icequeen

Got it but it wasn't LPCM in the Denon Player it was Auto Dig on Antherm! Needs to be ON to sense Digital signal even though the audio In was set to HDMI Dig! Does anyone think Analogs sound better than HDMI, I ask because I currently have the Denon set-up both ways and could take off the Analogs if people have done enough critical listening to believe HDMI for SACD ect is just as good??


----------



## shah993

Hi! Bob,

I have done everything you suggested.I will have you log in to my system in a few days as per our email and then will see.Till then I will keep trying


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38800_50#post_22575848
> 
> 
> Hi! Bob,
> 
> I have done everything you suggested.I will have you log in to my system in a few days as per our email and then will see.Till then I will keep trying


If you have a 5.1 setup you have to use 'surround' not 'rear' speaker. And I think from the setup menu on the D2V you send test sound to each speaker so you can check the system can send sound to each of your speaker.


----------



## shah993

Yes I did that and it sends sound to each speaker.Infact I had to caliberate it manualy with the help of my old Radio Shack SPL meter.


----------



## jrisles




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22575140
> 
> 
> As Bob stated this is the Anthem recommended serial adapter. You are risking repeated problems when using anything else.
> http://www.amazon.com/Keyspan-USA-19HS-Hi-Speed-supports-Sequence/dp/B0000VYJRY/ref=pd_cp_e_2



Will order it today thank you.


It amazes me that Anthem don't supply it with the product? I mean they supply absolutely everything else above and beyond the manual - ie. the microphone, the microphone stand & solid mount, the actual serial cable, the CD with the calibration files. To think they went to so much effort to supply all this kit for a top class service only to be let down by the fact that they didn't supply the "recommended" Serial to USB cable with no mention of the actual brand or type to which you refer? I mean why stop short of a $25 dollar cable when one is spending thousands of dollars on a unit of this quality. Why leave anything to chance at this level only to have your customers be dissatisfied when they attempt a firmware upgrade - which is by all accounts something pretty simple to do nowadays. I have updated many firmware for many different products and normally they work ok ... if they don't i have never had the experience when a product turns into a "brick"







...


To minimise any potential of anyone getting it wrong in the future it would be good if Anthem supplied everything they believe is required for maximum customer experience value - tis all - as i stated above they are 99% there - so why stop?


----------



## Thxtheater

Hi all,


I seem to be having some anomalies following the 3D board upgrade on my 50v. I'm documenting in case someone else runs into this and if someone can give me some insights.


I'm still debugging; however, the bottom line is the following:


1) I get no video at all via HDMI

2) I get proper audio ONLY if I disconnect the HDMI cable from my display... this happens with both outputs.

3) I get sporadic audio--plays for 3 seconds and then drops again-- if I have an HDMI cable connected to my display.

4) I used two cables (but later realized that the second cable was my new, directional cable. So I did the silly thing and had source plugged into TV and the reverse). The first cable was my trusty blue jeans cable.


I'm going to take the cover off the Anthem again and recheck all the connection on the board to make sure that everything is seated properly.


Fingers crossed.


Theo

*********************************************

***** UPDATE AND RESOLUTION *******

*********************************************


I opened up the 50v again and checked all connections. Everything seems just fine.


However, I took out all the cables and then re-attached them just in case; and I pushed down again on the board to make sure that it was making contact properly. Visually, everything looked good and physically everything looked snug.


I then put the 50v back together and plugged it in and bingo, it worked. I'm not sure why this happened. I tested both HDMI out ports and they work fine and they work with all my previous HDMI cables --- including my Blue Jeans primary cable.


I've never had that behavior before with the 50v and hopefully it was some little gremlin that will never come back again. If it was, by chance, something loose (all cables were snug and secure inside the unit) then I ended up fixing it.


I'm running build 3.09c so I'm looking forward to confirming that the audio drop out is indeed a thing of the past. Nick, thank you and thanks to all your colleagues for taking care of that annoying bug!


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22576834
> 
> 
> Will order it today thank you.
> 
> It amazes me that Anthem don't supply it with the product? I mean they supply absolutely everything else above and beyond the manual - ie. the microphone, the microphone stand & solid mount, the actual serial cable, the CD with the calibration files. To think they went to so much effort to supply all this kit for a top class service only to be let down by the fact that they didn't supply the "recommended" Serial to USB cable with no mention of the actual brand or type to which you refer? I mean why stop short of a $25 dollar cable when one is spending thousands of dollars on a unit of this quality. Why leave anything to chance at this level only to have your customers be dissatisfied when they attempt a firmware upgrade - which is by all accounts something pretty simple to do nowadays. I have updated many firmware for many different products and normally they work ok ... if they don't i have never had the experience when a product turns into a "brick"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> To minimise any potential of anyone getting it wrong in the future it would be good if Anthem supplied everything they believe is required for maximum customer experience value - tis all - as i stated above they are 99% there - so why stop?



I was under the impression Anthem was supplying the adapter. I know I received one with my D2v.

Maybe there is a difference with the distribution network outside Canada and the US.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22575739
> 
> 
> Hi, It has been a while that I have not run ARC on my D2.
> 
> What was the trick to do 1 measurement but have different number of speakers for your movie and music configuration ?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Do your Measurement with Music "Same As" Movie checked and with all the speakers you actually have, check-marked as available. Thus you'll only go around the speakers once, and all your speakers will be Measured.


After that's done, go into the Targets window, and clear the check box for Music "Same As" Movie.


Then, for the speakers you wish to exclude in either Music or Movie, put "n" for "no speaker" in place of that Cutoff frequency value. If you exclude the Subwoofer, be sure that LF/RF are set to Full Range. That should happen automatically, but check to be sure.


Accept those changes in the Targets window, re-Calculate, and Upload the new results. The speakers you have excluded will not participate in the solution. The original data is retained, so you can go back and re-enable them later in Targets if you want.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22575848
> 
> 
> Hi! Bob,
> 
> I have done everything you suggested.I will have you log in to my system in a few days as per our email and then will see.Till then I will keep trying



That's very odd. Are you getting ARC test tone sweeps from ANY of the speakers? Are you actually getting ARC test tone sweeps from the speaker next in line when the error message is generated?


Try testing this with the Quick Measure tool. Select the Advanced mode at ARC startup to display the charts window view, and Quick Measure will be available in the Tools menu.


Quick Measure allows you to select one speaker at a time, and then send a continuous series of sweep tones to just that speaker -- with the chart showing in real time what the mic is hearing from that speaker.


Using the Quick Measure tool, try each of your speakers, in any order, one at a time, and see which ones are failing to generate sweep tone audio.


NOTE: Quick Meausure resets portions of your Setup menu, just as is done at the start of a regular ARC Measurement pass. So Save User Settings before doing this. Then you can Reload Saved User Settings afterwards to recover the manual speaker level stuff you are using at the moment.


Also, I presume you are using Windows 7 or Windows XP. I don't believe the ARC stuff is compatible with Windows 8 yet.

--Bob


----------



## shah993

It stops after the front left speaker tone.I will try the other suggestions and let you know


----------



## AV_mike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850#post_22577082
> 
> 
> That's very odd. Are you getting ARC test tone sweeps from ANY of the speakers? Are you actually getting ARC test tone sweeps from the speaker next in line when the error message is generated?
> 
> Try testing this with the Quick Measure tool. Select the Advanced mode at ARC startup to display the charts window view, and Quick Measure will be available in the Tools menu.
> 
> Quick Measure allows you to select one speaker at a time, and then send a continuous series of sweep tones to just that speaker -- with the chart showing in real time what the mic is hearing from that speaker.
> 
> Using the Quick Measure tool, try each of your speakers, in any order, one at a time, and see which ones are failing to generate sweep tone audio.
> 
> NOTE: Quick Meausure resets portions of your Setup menu, just as is done at the start of a regular ARC Measurement pass. So Save User Settings before doing this. Then you can Reload Saved User Settings afterwards to recover the manual speaker level stuff you are using at the moment.
> 
> Also, I presume you are using Windows 7 or Windows XP. I don't believe the ARC stuff is compatible with Windows 8 yet.
> 
> --Bob



If the original poster is not getting any sweeps at all, they might try the following:-

Ensure that the USB cable supplied with the ARC microphone is being used - as its micro-USB end appears to be slightly different to some other cables I have. For instance, my PBK USB cable will not work with my ARC microphone - however my ARC USB cable will work with my PBK microphone.

Also, they may have to fully uninstall the ARC microphone driver, and then let it be recognised and installed fresh once more.

The poster needs to capture the error message dialog - and post a screen shot of it.

Regards, Mike.


----------



## icequeen

Hi Guys,


If I decide to use a different solution for Room Correction instead of ARC, do I just turn off room correction or do I have to wipe the D2 clean in some manner??? THanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38800_100#post_22577493
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> If I decide to use a different solution for Room Correction instead of ARC, do I just turn off room correction or do I have to wipe the D2 clean in some manner??? THanks


DO NOT MAKE THAT MISTAKE


----------



## shah993

Thanks will do that!.I am using only the original cables etc which came in the box.I am using win 7 64 bit with av turned off and logged in as administrator.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22576957
> 
> 
> I was under the impression Anthem was supplying the adapter. I know I received one with my D2v.
> 
> Maybe there is a difference with the distribution network outside Canada and the US.



I think it depends when you bought it. Mine didn't come with one but I'll never need one because I'll always maintain a laptop with a regular serial port.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850#post_22577493
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> If I decide to use a different solution for Room Correction instead of ARC, do I just turn off room correction or do I have to wipe the D2 clean in some manner??? THanks



You only need to set ROOM EQ OFF in SOURCE SETUP for each device. You can toggle it while listening, that's one good reason to calibrate your subs first.


By the way I much prefer SACD LPCM VIA HDMI to analog. The difference was mind blowing but I never looked back!


----------



## icequeen

Thanks, for the reply! I believe I prefer HDMI LPCM too.


I spent about 3 hours listening to some Diana Krall and SACD's I'm real familiar with last night. I noticed slight differences between Analog DSP and HDMI LPCM but they were small. I also listened to Analog Direct, but offcourse without room correction.


I do not believe I could A/B them when one has Room Correction, it wasn't an apples to apples comparison. Right now it is HDMI LPCM.


I wondered if the Anthem D2 had anything leftover, if I decide to have someone come in and professionally tune the room. They would like to use a different product and I didn't want to alter the results by having settings left over in the preamp, if I go that route??


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850_50#post_22577595
> 
> 
> You only need to set ROOM EQ OFF in SOURCE SETUP for each device. You can toggle it while listening, that's one good reason to calibrate your subs first.
> 
> ...


I do not think that will work to disable ARC because when you upload the ARC correction it globally set (for all inputs) the speaker level and speaker filter cut off frequency.

Those are not going to change when to toggle ROOM EQ. It will only turn on or off the dsp processing.


But If you just wanted to test the dsp processing you can also set DVD1 with room eq ON and DVD2 with room eq OFF, and you can quickly toggle between the 2 by just pressing the DVD button.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850_50#post_22577076
> 
> 
> Do your Measurement with Music "Same As" Movie checked and with all the speakers you actually have, check-marked as available. Thus you'll only go around the speakers once, and all your speakers will be Measured.
> 
> 
> After that's done, go into the Targets window, and clear the check box for Music "Same As" Movie.
> 
> Then, for the speakers you wish to exclude in either Music or Movie, put "n" for "no speaker" in place of that Cutoff frequency value. If you exclude the Subwoofer, be sure that LF/RF are set to Full Range. That should happen automatically, but check to be sure.
> 
> 
> Accept those changes in the Targets window, re-Calculate, and Upload the new results. The speakers you have excluded will not participate in the solution. The original data is retained, so you can go back and re-enable them later in Targets if you want.
> 
> --Bob


Thanks Bob, I think this should be somewhere in the #1 post for manual ARC measurement tips.


----------



## icequeen

Anyone now, how I get rid of these Global settings if I would like to use another Room Correction System?


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850_50#post_22577761
> 
> 
> Anyone now, how I get rid of these Global settings if I would like to use another Room Correction System?


One ugly thing to do is:

1- Save your current configuration under User or System, it is one of the last option on the Setup option on your D2. (in case you want them back).

2- Run quick measure with ARC, this should wipe out all the ARC config settting.

3- Go to the each of the input toggle room eq to OFF.


I know that quick measure wipe some of the ARC settting, but somebody will need to confirm it. Other wise you can manually go and check the speaker level and filter level setting before you try some other device for room correction. But there will be no fast toggle on or off for testing to see which one you prefer.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850#post_22577733
> 
> 
> I do not think that will work to disable ARC because when you upload the ARC correction it globally set (for all inputs) the speaker level and speaker filter cut off frequency.
> 
> Those are not going to change when to toggle ROOM EQ. It will only turn on or off the dsp processing.
> 
> But If you just wanted to test the dsp processing you can also set DVD1 with room eq ON and DVD2 with room eq OFF, and you can quickly toggle between the 2 by just pressing the DVD button.



I thought that was the goal.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850#post_22577761
> 
> 
> Anyone now, how I get rid of these Global settings if I would like to use another Room Correction System?



Turning Room EQ OFF for a Source will disable ARC processing and RE-enable the older EQ-style settings in Setup that ARC bypasses: THX Ultra 2 Sub, Boundary Gain Compensation, LFE Bypass, Center EQ, and Room EQ. Check to make sure you don't have something you don't want set in those older-style EQ function settings.


The Room Correction parameters that ARC has Uploaded will still be sitting in their special memory, but they won't be doing anything for a Source with Room EQ OFF. If you really want to get rid of them (there's almost NEVER a reason to want to do this), you can delete them using the ERASE function in the ARC Windows app.


Now, in addition to Uploading the Room Correction parameters, ARC also uploads speaker Crossover settings and Volume Trims. The results from ARC are a combo of the effect of those settings and the processing of the Room Correction parameters. For example ARC might boost a speakers Volume Trim a bit because it knows it is mostly going to be filling dips in the Room Correction. Or ARC may have picked Crossover settings based on what else is going on in the Room Correction processing.


The point is, those two types of settings work in combo. If you turn off Room EQ, the other settings in Setup may not be ideal for a manually set configuration since the Room Correction stuff is not ALSO happening. So turn off Room EQ and then go redo the rest of your Setup settings using whatever procedure you like for a fully manual setup.


Now, if you are really going to use someone else's room EQ system, then you will likely want the D2 to do nothing. So set speakers to Large (no Crossover processing) with 0dB volume trim, turn off all the older-style EQ settings, and let the other electronics handle ALL of it.


If you simply want to temporarily disable processing so the D2 can act as a straight-through pre-amp during room measurement (for example while selecting room bass treatments), then the easiest way to do it is to pick any Analog input (stereo being the likely choice, but multi-channel if needed) and temporarily set that to ANALOG-DIRECT. Set that way you have volume control but all the other processing in the D2 is bypassed -- including ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850#post_22577883
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850#post_22577733
> 
> 
> I do not think that will work to disable ARC because when you upload the ARC correction it globally set (for all inputs) the speaker level and speaker filter cut off frequency.
> 
> Those are not going to change when to toggle ROOM EQ. It will only turn on or off the dsp processing.
> 
> But If you just wanted to test the dsp processing you can also set DVD1 with room eq ON and DVD2 with room eq OFF, and you can quickly toggle between the 2 by just pressing the DVD button.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought that was the goal.
Click to expand...


The problem is you can't REALLY A/B compare ARC on vs. off this way because when you turn ARC off, the OTHER settings it has put in Setup for Crossover and Volume Trim may no longer be ideal. I.e., those settings have been picked knowing that the Room Correction stuff is also happening. I.e., the ARC off part of the test will sound worse than it might if you had done a full-on manual setup using the other, non-ARC tools in the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850#post_22577326
> 
> 
> It stops after the front left speaker tone.I will try the other suggestions and let you know


OK so you are getting test sweeps from Left Front, but not from Center. Instead you get the error. You are not familiar with the timing of how ARC does this so you likely don't know whether it is complaining that it can't hear Left Front or rather that it can't hear Center.


There are two possibilities here. The first is that the mic setup is faulty -- thus it can't hear Left Front. You can test that by running Quick Measure on Left Front and seeing if you get any results in the chart.


The second is that for some reason ARC can't command sound to come out on Center. You can check THAT by using Quick Measure on Center to see if you get test sweep tones.


At this point I'm going to guess you have a mic problem.


Double check that the mic cable is fully inserted at both the mic end and at your computer.


There is a procedure you can use in Windows 7 to verify that the mic can be heard by the computer and is actually selectable by the computer and working.


I'm going to attach the document from Anthem that describes that. Following this procedure will both make sure Windows 7 is set properly to use the mic, and also that the mic is actually functioning at a basic level -- e.g., the cable works.


It is still possible for the mic to be faulty so that the data it is returning is being rejected by ARC, but that's a pretty unlikely failure.


The attached document is a PDF file.

Win 7 ARC Setup.pdf 486k .pdf file


--Bob


----------



## icequeen

Thanks BOB! ... Has anybody used better Pro Room Analysis such as Meyers with the Sim3 rig??? OR ITA


I am wondering if this type of Professional room tune is worth the money from a qualified professional compared to the best outcome possible from ARC?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850#post_22578434
> 
> 
> Thanks BOB! ... Has anybody used better Pro Room Analysis such as Meyers with the Sim3 rig??? OR ITA
> 
> I am wondering if this type of Professional room tune is worth the money from a qualified professional compared to the best outcome possible from ARC?


Based on your previous charts, the only problem that you are having seems to be with your subs canceling each other out. The rest of your charts, for your other speakers, look very good. I'm not sure if a manual setup is going to be able to do any better. However, with this hobby, you will never know until you try. I honestly think if you can correct your subs, you will be in great shape.


Just my .02; but, it's your system, and you should do what will make you happy.


Good luck to you!!!


----------



## hollings514

Hi all. First time posting to this thread, but have been following the conversation for a while. I'm a 2 year happy owner of my D2V and continue to enjoy everything that this baby delivers to my ears and eyes. Although I've experienced some bugs and glitches along the way (as others have reported on AVS), overall I'm glad I pulled the trigger and officially entered the high-end audio/video processing world. Yesterday, I spent most of the day updating to 3.09, then ran a new ARC upload using ARC 3.02. After a frightening situation where my laptop went to the blue screen of death during the 3.09 flash process, I did finally get things upgraded without further incident. I have to say, my heart sank when this happened, thinking that I might have "bricked" my unit. Thank goodness that wasn't the case. I simply restarted the upgrade and it seemed to pick up from where it left off after verifying all previous upgrade elements. Anyway, the new firmware (3.09) seems to be a huge improvement with HDMI management/handling. Thank you Anthem for improving the HDMI switching and handshaking process! As others have posted, I'm definitely noticing a positive improvement with the sound environment, however, I'm open to the fact that this may just be a psychosomatic reaction. Either way, I'm very happy with the upgrade. Since I'm also using the most updated ACR software, it's hard to know if the 3.09 firmware is the reason for the sound improvement. Regardless, I'm even happier then I was before the upgrade (coming from V2.10) and I was already a happy camper. Question: I've noticed several posters using 3.09c, however, the only version available from Anthem is 3.09. Is 3.09c an earlier beta release? Is the official 3.09 the latest version that has been officially released?


Thanks to all of you who have posted and provided so much insight and support to this AVS thread/ conversation.

-Steve


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hollings514*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850#post_22578634
> 
> 
> Hi all. First time posting to this thread, but have been following the conversation for a while. I'm a 2 year happy owner of my D2V and continue to enjoy everything that this baby delivers to my ears and eyes. Although I've experienced some bugs and glitches along the way (as others have reported on AVS), overall I'm glad I pulled the trigger and officially entered the high-end audio/video processing world. Yesterday, I spent most of the day updating to 3.09, then ran a new ARC upload using ARC 3.02. After a frightening situation where my laptop went to the blue screen of death during the 3.09 flash process, I did finally get things upgraded without further incident. I have to say, my heart sank when this happened, thinking that I might have "bricked" my unit. Thank goodness that wasn't the case. I simply restarted the upgrade and it seemed to pick up from where it left off after verifying all previous upgrade elements. Anyway, the new firmware (3.09) seems to be a huge improvement with HDMI management/handling. Thank you Anthem for improving the HDMI switching and handshaking process! As others have posted, I'm definitely noticing a positive improvement with the sound environment, however, I'm open to the fact that this may just be a psychosomatic reaction. Either way, I'm very happy with the upgrade. Since I'm also using the most updated ACR software, it's hard to know if the 3.09 firmware is the reason for the sound improvement. Regardless, I'm even happier then I was before the upgrade (coming from V2.10) and I was already a happy camper. Question: I've noticed several posters using 3.09c, however, the only version available from Anthem is 3.09. Is 3.09c an earlier beta release? Is the official 3.09 the latest version that has been officially released?
> 
> Thanks to all of you who have posted and provided so much insight and support to this AVS thread/ conversation.
> 
> -Steve



3.09 is the latest released. 3.09c is available from the password protected site and is a fix for AVM50v to fix a low power on problem. There may be other fixes but I'm not aware of any in this version. See a few posts back for some minor problems that Bob P has found with this version.


----------



## Texas steve


3.09 is the latest. and yes most of us, including my self noticed a sonic inprovement as well.   3.09C is a beta, that as with all betas has some improvements AND some issues.   Glad your enjoying your D2V I am as well.


----------



## icequeen

Ninja thanks I like the 2 cents!...Bob, I have tried most of your suggestions this weekend.

I have moved the subs within the space confines of the left and right front speakers and the center channel. I used quick measure for a real time check. I have limited length on my XLR cables but was able to move them at least a 1/2ft at a time within a 2ft area. They are beasts and I had to have the neighbor come over and help me. I think he believes I'm crazy now!

I also checked phase and readjusted levels. I then shut off one woofer at a time, but the room still has that 60hz dip. It did improve slightly, but it still presents a problem. I talked with a acoustician who would like to do the professional tune, but I'm not convinced yet! I may have to get some long sub cables and move them to other spots that will not be ideal.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850#post_22578776
> 
> 
> Ninja thanks I like the 2 cents!...Bob, I have tried most of your suggestions this weekend.
> 
> I have moved the subs within the space confines of the left and right front speakers and the center channel. I used quick measure for a real time check. I have limited length on my XLR cables but was able to move them at least a 1/2ft at a time within a 2ft area. They are beasts and I had to have the neighbor come over and help me. I think he believes I'm crazy now!
> 
> I also checked phase and readjusted levels. I then shut off one woofer at a time, but the room still has that 60hz dip. It did improve slightly, but it still presents a problem. I talked with a acoustician who would like to do the professional tune, but I'm not convinced yet! I may have to get some long sub cables and move them to other spots that will not be ideal.



When you do Quick Measure with only one sub powered, do you see the dip at 60Hz? Is that true for each sub? Or does the dip only arise when BOTH subs are powered? (You can also do Quick Measure with both subs powered to check this.)


You may very well have a nasty resonance null in the room absorbing 60Hz. That's something that arises from the 3 dimensions of the room (as they relate to the wavelength of the bass having the problem) and the ability of the walls, floor and ceiling to reflect that bass. Bass treatments tackle that by absorbing bass in the the corners and at key locations along the walls so that the reflections don't happen.


But if the dip is only happening when you have BOTH speakers powered, then that says something is still not right in the Polarity/Phase settings for each sub.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850#post_22578776
> 
> 
> Ninja thanks I like the 2 cents!...Bob, I have tried most of your suggestions this weekend.
> 
> I have moved the subs within the space confines of the left and right front speakers and the center channel. I used quick measure for a real time check. I have limited length on my XLR cables but was able to move them at least a 1/2ft at a time within a 2ft area. They are beasts and I had to have the neighbor come over and help me. I think he believes I'm crazy now!
> 
> I also checked phase and readjusted levels. I then shut off one woofer at a time, but the room still has that 60hz dip. It did improve slightly, but it still presents a problem. I talked with a acoustician who would like to do the professional tune, but I'm not convinced yet! I may have to get some long sub cables and move them to other spots that will not be ideal.



What are you room dimensions and where are you placing your subs?


----------



## tngiloy

I recently have had some problems between my oppo93 and D2--audio drop-outs, missing center channel sound, no audio at all--- which were cured by switching sources or power cycling.

This is something recent, and since I had a power problem recently, I thought it would be a good idea to re-run my firmware on both units.

Oppo was no problem. Downloaded a fresh copy, loaded it on a thumbdrive and loaded it on the 93.


Since I have been using v1.47f because I find it much more stable, I went to download a fresh copy of v1.47f from the password protected beta site. v1.47f is no longer in link1. Only beta's are the ones for the D2v and 50v.


Is there a double secret site, a link I'm missing or has v1.47f been removed.


I will contact Anthem tech and ask them, but does anyone here know what is going on??


Tom


----------



## icequeen

GM Studlygoorite


My Room Dimensions are in inches

Length 248

Width 151

Height 91


My subs placement is on the Front wall between the Left and Right Mains.


They are 19 inches off front wall and the cones are centerd 43inches fronmeach side wall.


I believe I have something going on with the room, The only treatments I am using outside of Wall to Wall carpets are as follows:


Panels to treat Main Speakers primary reflections on side walls and my EX had some guy put up on fabric Wall around the screen. ie. Black


I believe between the fabric and the wall is some type of fiberglass panel, that spaces the fabric away from the wall about 1/2 inch or so.


This screen wall surrounds a 100 inch screen and covers the rest of the front wall. Thanks for the help


----------



## icequeen

How about forcing ARC to crossover at 50Hz instead of it's 60HZ solution?


----------



## wingnut4772

I just purchased a Darblet. Can I just put it between the HDMI out and the Display on the Anthem or do I have to put it in the chain before the Anthem? Thanks


----------



## Texas steve


I put mine after the D2V (HDMI 1 out) at the D2v with a 35' HDMI to my projector.  That way all sources are covered.  Works great!   I typically use HD @61%


----------



## wingnut4772

Ok great. I can't wait to get it and see the improvement. It didn't occur to me when I bought it that I could cover all bases through the Anthem. Bonus!


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850#post_22580235
> 
> 
> I just purchased a Darblet. Can I just put it between the HDMI out and the Display on the Anthem or do I have to put it in the chain before the Anthem? Thanks



Put it in the signal chain between the Anthem and your display. I had purchased a Darblet back in September and used it for about 7-10 days. Did it make an improvement? Yes. Was it earth-shattering? Not so much in my opinion. I have lots of experience in the graphics world and the end effect is closest to an unsharp mask. I ended up returning the Darblet because I just couldn't justify the cost vs. performance improvement in my specific setup. I just listened to a Home Theater Geeks podcast on the Darblet. It's really nice with what it does and I'm hoping they can lower the price point. If it was $99, I probably would have kept it. I'd be curious about your experience with it given you are also using Anthem gear. I felt that the the processing of the Anthem did a really nice job on my current picture setup and I'd have noticed a greater improvement with the Darblet if I was not using the Anthem and had something else in the mix or was going source direct to display.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850#post_22578251
> 
> 
> The problem is you can't REALLY A/B compare ARC on vs. off this way because when you turn ARC off, the OTHER settings it has put in Setup for Crossover and Volume Trim may no longer be ideal. I.e., those settings have been picked knowing that the Room Correction stuff is also happening. I.e., the ARC off part of the test will sound worse than it might if you had done a full-on manual setup using the other, non-ARC tools in the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



I guess I was lucky the last time I ran ARC, it set the crossovers and trims close to what I would set them if doing a manual setup.


That also makes me happy because I don't feel the urge to mess with the crossovers, i.e. pushing 60 to 50 Hz. (We've discussed that before here and I don't think anyone who tries ends up preferring their own settings to ARC's. The exception is actually on the upper frequency cutoff, which defaults to 5kHz, where some people prefer to limit ARC's effect on high frequencies by reducing this cutoff due to a very particular/peculiar speaker system.)


----------



## AVfile

Here is a review of the Darblet from someone that has experience with high-end video processors. He compares it to a Lumagen which uses a VXP chip like the Anthems:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/video-processors/video-processors-reviews/darbee-darblet-dvp5000-video-processor/page-4-in-use.html 


Some interesting quotes:


"Bad content looks awful through the Darbee. It really does its job when the content it receives is good."

"if you like your picture punchier and sharper, the Darbee is definitely an interesting solution to a problem we didn't know existed"


----------



## icequeen

Here are the measurements I took this morning.







[IMG[/URL] ALT=""]1 SUB ON RT onlyhttp:// www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/88845/width/350/height/700[/IMG][IMG ALT=""]1 SUn on LFT onlyhttp:// www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/88846/width/350/height/700[/IMG][IMG ALT=""]Both Subs ON http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/88847/width/350/height/700[/IMG][IMG ALT=""]Both Subs ON 60hz Countour Highest Position http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/88848/width/350/height/700[/IMG ]


I did an experiment by turning the Bass Countour up on back of the sub for a quick measure...it is a 60HZ countour..like your thoughts on these measurements


----------



## wingnut4772

Thanks for the replies. I didn't mean to derail the thread but it will be interesting to see if the Darblet improves upon the Anthem processing.


----------



## icequeen

Here are the measurements I took this morning the order is as follows:


Orginal Measurement

1 Sub On only - Right Side

1 Sub on Only- Left side

2 Subs - ON

2 Subs -ON 60hz Contour Boosted to Max on back of Sub

     



I would love to get some thoughts and opinions..Thanks!


----------



## Thxtheater

Question about Anthem RS-232 and IR:


I have a question to post to the group: I just came across this product: http://www.iruleathome.com/ 


It's an RS-232 controller that allows you use iOS and Android devices as remotes via Wifi. This is appealing to me as I'm looking for a solution to be able to control my AVM50v and other components from other rooms and likewise control zones 2 and 3 from around the house without buying additional harmony remotes (in case you are wondering I currently have the Harmony RF remote).


Here is what I envision and want to see if this product would work:


1) Connect the iRule via RS-232 to the Anthem

2) Have the Anthem send our IR signals to devices in my configuration that are not RS-232 capable so that the Anthem acts as my hub

3) OR ALTERNATIVELY connect the Anthem's IR out to my Niles IR transmitter


I'd be curious to see your thoughts on this solution or another solution that is low-cost.


Thanks,

Theo


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38880#post_22580556
> 
> 
> Here is a review of the Darblet from someone that has experience with high-end video processors. He compares it to a Lumagen which uses a VXP chip like the Anthems:
> http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/video-processors/video-processors-reviews/darbee-darblet-dvp5000-video-processor/page-4-in-use.html
> 
> Some interesting quotes:
> 
> "Bad content looks awful through the Darbee. It really does its job when the content it receives is good."
> 
> "if you like your picture punchier and sharper, the Darbee is definitely an interesting solution to a problem we didn't know existed"



I would agree 100% with those two statements. That nails it dead-on.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38850#post_22579912
> 
> 
> I recently have had some problems between my oppo93 and D2--audio drop-outs, missing center channel sound, no audio at all--- which were cured by switching sources or power cycling.
> 
> This is something recent, and since I had a power problem recently, I thought it would be a good idea to re-run my firmware on both units.
> 
> Oppo was no problem. Downloaded a fresh copy, loaded it on a thumbdrive and loaded it on the 93.
> 
> 
> Since I have been using v1.47f because I find it much more stable, I went to download a fresh copy of v1.47f from the password protected beta site. v1.47f is no longer in link1. Only beta's are the ones for the D2v and 50v.
> 
> 
> Is there a double secret site, a link I'm missing or has v1.47f been removed.
> 
> 
> I will contact Anthem tech and ask them, but does anyone here know what is going on??
> 
> 
> Tom



Anthem has been strongly discouraging people from using V1.47f. In their testing, and based on reports coming in to tech support, they have found that "Official" V1.33 is better for the original D2.


V1.47f included changes to work around problems in certain other hardware. I can't recall at the moment whether it was certain displays or certain TV set top boxes. Get in touch with Anthem and if they think V1.47f is a good idea for you, they can get it to you.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Ice Queen


Here are the measurements I took this morning the order is as follows:


Orginal Measurement

1 Sub On only - Right Side

1 Sub on Only- Left side

2 Subs - ON

2 Subs -ON 60hz Contour Boosted to Max on back of Sub


******************************************************************************************************************************


Here is a suggestion to try


Move both the subs to outside the main speakers.

I would put them into a corner to start the next series of testing.


----------



## studlygoorite

I agree with Stu, if your cutoff frequency is indeed set to 150hz on each sub and your phase is set correctly then movement of the subs would be the next step.


----------



## icequeen

I will try moving the Subs to other places !! I will Report back.... hopefully with Gorgeous results! lol


----------



## icequeen

Is it OK to have the subs behind the seats in the theater but then facing the side walls instead of shooting into the room??


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38880#post_22582133
> 
> 
> Is it OK to have the subs behind the seats in the theater but then facing the side walls instead of shooting into the room??



You can pretty much place the subs ANYWHERE in the room. They work by "pressurizing" the entire room -- which is why the bass is not localizable (i.e., appears to come from all over instead of from the sub).


HOWEVER, you don't want to place the subs right next to seating like they were some sort of end-table, as then you'll be in the "near field" of the sub and you WILL start localizing the sound to the sub.

--Bob


----------



## DaveBoswell

Icequeen, my 2 cents here from what I see:


- you've got a very very strong peak in the sub, center, left and right speakers at around 28HZ which is very likely the axial mode being excited (first mode frequency between front walls and back walls).

- you've also got peak at around 50Hz in the same speakers which is likely the mode casused by side wall reflections

- i would guess that you have very rigid walls in your room to excite this much, concrete walls or multi layered drywall? Basement room with concrete walls?


- the dip at 60-80 hz is clearly not caused by the two subs working against each other as it happens in both subs when tested individually - thoughts on this are: there is a cross over filter somewhere in the chain that is still active, or the dip is caused by a vertical room mode that is a result of having the mike always at the same height, or simply the peak at 28HZ is so dramatic it looks like there is a dip everywhere else.


thoughts on fixes:

- really make sure there is nothing in the signal chain that is causing the dips - assume it is straight XLR right from anthem to sub, with nothing in between? make sure all the anthem legacy settings for sub filters etc are turned off (gripping at straws here).

- then try moving the subs into the room and away from the front wall - mid point on the sidewalls would be ideal to eliminate the 28hz and 50Hz issue. Another option is one sub at mid point on front wall and the other at mid point on rear wall.

- move the seating position closer or farther from the front wall - even a foot or so migh make world of difference

- Consider bass traps on front and rear walls or corners

- try raising or lowering either the subs and or the seating/mike position and see if the dip changes using the quick test mode

- if you do in fact have very rigid walls, a bit more dramatic approach is to build out a false wall over them that is not rigidly connected to the concrete - might be a non starter I know but throwing it out there anyway

- add a third "mid bass sub" in the near field right behind or beside the seating position - HSU has some reasonably priced ones for just this purpose. It's a nice mix where you've got the big subs in front corners to handle the 15-40HZ range, and a mid bass sub for the 40-100Hz - just make sure to turn on the high pass filter on mid bass so you don't hear anything above around 100Hz as it will be localizable


Hope this helps!


Dave


----------



## icequeen

Wow Dave Thank You! I will digest this info over a morning coffee, and get started on some of these ideas. Thanks for looking at the charts as I am becoming fustrated and would really like to get some audio bliss out of this room!!Any suggestions on Bass Traps??


----------



## icequeen

BTW.. It is a basement build out, and two of the walls behind 5/8 inch drywall are concrete. They are the front and left walls.


----------



## DaveBoswell

Wonder if there is something wrong with sub cut off freq or you've got it set to the min setting instead of the max by mistake. Suggest doing quick measure while you are changing the cut off frequency dial - your charts really look like the cut off is set to 40hz instead of 150. The sig servos should easily be strong up to the mid 100hz range.


Dave


----------



## icequeen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaveBoswell*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38880#post_22585816
> 
> 
> Wonder if there is something wrong with sub cut off freq or you've got it set to the min setting instead of the max by mistake. Suggest doing quick measure while you are changing the cut off frequency dial - your charts really look like the cut off is set to 40hz instead of 150. The sig servos should easily be strong up to the mid 100hz range.
> 
> Dave



Hi Dave,


I double checked and definitley have the knobs set at 150 on both subs! Unless the subs are improperly labeled. I just spent 2 hrs pushing subs around and taking new measurements! Will post here shortly. Thanks again for the Help! Any recommendations on bass traps??


----------



## icequeen

Hi Guys


Here are some new dramatically different quick measures from My Original Runs on 11-08-12


The order is as follows and would appreciate a little advice on charts, Which chart looks best?! THANKS!!


1 Sub ON Front on Room Mid Pt of Room Width

2 Subs ON - 1 Front Wall Mid PT...1 Rear Wall Mid Pt of Width

2 Subs ON - 1 Front Wall Mid PT...1 Mid Pt of Length Left Wall

2 Subs ON - 1 Front Wall Mid PT...1 Mid Pt of Length Right

    Wall


----------



## dmusoke


Icequeen congrats on the new sub charts. They look way better than your previous ones. It seems your persistance has paid off.

 

Chart 3 is the best of charts (2 Subs ON - 1 Front Wall Mid PT...1 Mid Pt of Length Left Wall) with the chart 4 a very close second. Now:

 

 

1.  Did you level match each individual sub to 72dB to produce a combined 75 dB or so(with phase knobs both turned to 0 degrees)? I don't think so for your sub levels and chart levels are way too low at 60dB!

 

2.  After you level matched the subs, did you adjust the phase of ONE sub from 0 degrees upwards until you got the best(flattest) frequency response using Quick Measure? I would perform this operation on the front Wall Mid PT sub first and note the response. Afterwards, i'd reset its phase knob to 0 degrees and turn the phase knob for the Mid Pt of Left Wall sub and also note its response as well. Usually, one combination produces better results than the other.

 

3. What subs are you using? Just curious ....

 

You are almost there ...

 

- David


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38880#post_22586237
> 
> 
> Hi Guys
> 
> Here are some new dramatically different quick measures from My Original Runs on 11-08-12
> 
> The order is as follows and would appreciate a little advice on charts, Which chart looks best?! THANKS!!
> 
> 1 Sub ON Front on Room Mid Pt of Room Width
> 
> 2 Subs ON - 1 Front Wall Mid PT...1 Rear Wall Mid Pt of Width
> 
> 2 Subs ON - 1 Front Wall Mid PT...1 Mid Pt of Length Left Wall
> 
> 2 Subs ON - 1 Front Wall Mid PT...1 Mid Pt of Length Right
> Wall



And what about in the corners outside of the front speakers ?


----------



## icequeen

Good Morning David,


I will post the src measurements here shortly, I went back after I did the Quick measure and readjusted all levels. Let's see how I did?


As far as phase I used an old Rob Harley trick where, I set the subwoofer phase by reversing the the polarity of the main speakers by connecting the black speaker cable to the red speaker input, and the red speaker cable to the black speaker input. This inverts the polarity of the signal. I then play a test tone at the crossover frequency and while sitting in the listening position, have someone rotate the subwoofer's phase control. One thing that came to mind while doing this is that my subs were set at 120HZ br ARC. but the Main Left and Right were set at 60HZ, I used the 120HZ for the initial run of ARC.


I then listen for a position on the phase adjustment that produces the maximum null (least amount of bass), and know that the phase control is set perfectly. I then return the speaker leads to their normal position.


This technique works because it's easier to hear the maximum null than it is to hear the maximum peak. When the phase control is set perfectly, the main speaker's woofers will move out when the subwoofer cone is moving in, cancelling each other. When the main speaker's correct polarity is restored, the main speakers and the subwoofer are maximally in-phase. LIke to hear what you think of this technique, and am willing to try your technique with Quick Measure as well. Also since ny subs are now at two different distances from the Listening postion which distance do I use?? The closer or farther away?


THanks for the help and BTW the subs are the orginal Paridigmn Signature Servo Subs.


----------



## icequeen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38880#post_22586729
> 
> 
> And what about in the corners outside of the front speakers ?



Hey Stew I have not tried the corners yet, because the subs are phiscally too large to get behind my left and right speakers on the front wall. I may be able to get them behind the speakers if I point them at each other on the front wall? Is that acceptable, or is there cancellation?


----------



## icequeen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38880#post_22586727
> 
> 
> Icequeen congrats on the new sub charts. They look way better than your previous ones. It seems your persistance has paid off.
> 
> 
> Chart 3 is the best of charts (2 Subs ON - 1 Front Wall Mid PT...1 Mid Pt of Length Left Wall) with the chart 4 a very close second. Now:
> 
> 
> 
> 1.  Did you level match each individual sub to 72dB to produce a combined 75 dB or so(with phase knobs both turned to 0 degrees)? I don't think so for your sub levels and chart levels are way too low at 60dB!
> 
> 
> 2.  After you level matched the subs, did you adjust the phase of ONE sub from 0 degrees upwards until you got the best(flattest) frequency response using Quick Measure? I would perform this operation on the front Wall Mid PT sub first and note the response. Afterwards, i'd reset its phase knob to 0 degrees and turn the phase knob for the Mid Pt of Left Wall sub and also note its response as well. Usually, one combination produces better results than the other.
> 
> 
> 3. What subs are you using? Just curious ....
> 
> 
> You are almost there ...
> 
> 
> - David


One follow-on question I would add to the discussion is that, for many subwoofers, doesn't a certain amount of phase shift occur across the sub's operating range, meaning that you can't always have the sub perfectly in phase with the main speakers at all frequencies.

So, do we sometimes face a dilemma: Should we set-up best-case phase matching for the crossover region (which generally gives the best overall sense of integration) or for some lower frequency (which generally gives the best sense of low frequency depth, power, extension, etc.)?


Ideally, it would be nice to have things both ways, but in practical terms that isn't always possible. As a matter of preference, I personally tend to go for better integration within the crossover region (but the ARC solution leaves this big gap that I never had before when I tuned it manually)


That said, however, I've observed that some movie soundtracks sound best when the system is tuned for maximum low-end power and extension (albeit at the expense of some mid-bass clarity).


It pays to keep your sonic priorities firmly in mind when doing subwoofer setup/tuning--particularly when making phase adjustments, What is best in your opinion with ARC?


----------



## icequeen

New Charts after ARC Upload last night!


If I could get some thoughts that would be Great! Also how does overall volume levels look?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38880#post_22587136
> 
> 
> Good Morning David,
> 
> I will post the src measurements here shortly, I went back after I did the Quick measure and readjusted all levels. Let's see how I did?
> 
> As far as phase I used an old Rob Harley trick where, I set the subwoofer phase by reversing the the polarity of the main speakers by connecting the black speaker cable to the red speaker input, and the red speaker cable to the black speaker input. This inverts the polarity of the signal. I then play a test tone at the crossover frequency and while sitting in the listening position, have someone rotate the subwoofer's phase control. One thing that came to mind while doing this is that my subs were set at 120HZ br ARC. but the Main Left and Right were set at 60HZ, I used the 120HZ for the initial run of ARC.
> 
> I then listen for a position on the phase adjustment that produces the maximum null (least amount of bass), and know that the phase control is set perfectly. I then return the speaker leads to their normal position.
> 
> This technique works because it's easier to hear the maximum null than it is to hear the maximum peak. When the phase control is set perfectly, the main speaker's woofers will move out when the subwoofer cone is moving in, cancelling each other. When the main speaker's correct polarity is restored, the main speakers and the subwoofer are maximally in-phase. LIke to hear what you think of this technique, and am willing to try your technique with Quick Measure as well. Also since ny subs are now at two different distances from the Listening postion which distance do I use?? The closer or farther away?
> 
> THanks for the help and BTW the subs are the orginal Paridigmn Signature Servo Subs.


The cutoff is not the crossover for the sub. The crossover can be seen in the setup menu.

John


----------



## Kris Deering

icequeen,


Read this:

http://soundoctor.com/whitepapers/subs.htm 


Everything you're asking is addressed in this and more.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38880#post_22587876
> 
> 
> New Charts after ARC Upload last night!
> 
> If I could get some thoughts that would be Great! Also how does overall volume levels look?



I can't read your targets but your sub chart looks much better now, sit back and enjoy for a couple weeks. If you think it's lacking with music, adjust the sub volume.


----------



## terryshep

can you run arc on windows 8 as I need to re run arc as I have changed my room around


thanks for your help


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38900_50#post_22589141
> 
> 
> can you run arc on windows 8 as I need to re run arc as I have changed my room around
> 
> thanks for your help


I ran ARC on my laptop with Window8 Pro last weekend and it worked fine. The keyspan had a new window8 driver on their site.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22589132
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> I can't read your targets but your sub chart looks much better now, sit back and enjoy for a couple weeks. If you think it's lacking with music, adjust the sub volume.



What you are seeing are actually large thumbnails. Click on his pics and they'll expand into something more legible.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22589400
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38900_50#post_22589141
> 
> 
> can you run arc on windows 8 as I need to re run arc as I have changed my room around
> 
> thanks for your help
> 
> 
> 
> I ran ARC on my laptop with Window8 Pro last weekend and it worked fine. The keyspan had a new window8 driver on their site.
Click to expand...


Good to know! Thanks for posting this. Do you happen to have a version number for that new, Windows 8 driver?

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38880#post_22587876
> 
> 
> New Charts after ARC Upload last night!
> 
> If I could get some thoughts that would be Great! Also how does overall volume levels look?


Your sub's graph looks so much better now. It's amazing what proper placement, of speakers/sub(s), can do for you. Congratulations!!!!! Now sit back and enjoy for a while, like a couple of weeks, and then decide if you need to do more tweaking or if it's good enough.


Enjoy!!!!


----------



## icequeen

Kris,


Excellent Article, and once I digest it, should be very helpful! Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## terryshep

hi I have a anthem d2v 3d and im having audio drop outs but only on dolby true hd every thing else is fine what could it be









blu ray player is oppo 93


thanks for any help


terry


----------



## terryshep

just an update on this problem bitstream audio drop outs set oppo 93 to lpcm no drop outs ? and this problemis only on dolby ture hd ?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22589466
> 
> 
> What you are seeing are actually large thumbnails. Click on his pics and they'll expand into something more legible.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob


----------



## dschamis

Is it okay to use the latest version of ARC, found on the D2v's download page, with a D2 running v 1.33?


Also, any good rumors about a D3 lately?


Thanks,

David


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22593868
> 
> 
> Is it okay to use the latest version of ARC, found on the D2v's download page, with a D2 running v 1.33?
> 
> Also, any good rumors about a D3 lately?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David


Yes, you can use ARC v3.0.2 with the D2 with firmware v1.33. I have not heard any rumors about D3.


----------



## Thxtheater

*HDMI output anomaly with 3D Upgrade on 50v*


I'm wondering if those of you who have a 50v with the 3D upgrade could perform a test for me. I've had some periodic HDMI video cut-outs post-3D upgrade. In terms of frequency, I'd say it's the same frequency as the audio bug would be--for example, get it twice in two days and then go a week or two without it happening.


I figured out that I can repeat the video drop *every time* by going to the VIDEO CONFIG then in option f selecting anything other than the previous selection (for example, if it was auto, setting to 12-bit, if it was 12-bit, setting it to 8 bit, etc.) and saving and the HDMI video out will die. Audio will still work, but video will not.


I've tried the following:


1) Used two different HDMI cables going from the 50v to the display. (BlueJeans 25foot 1.3 certified and 15-foot Monoprice redmere)

2) Used a 6-foot, brand new HDMI cable connected to an Oppo 1.3 amplifier/switch that is then connected to another new, 6-foot HDMI cable direct to the display.


In both instances, all three cable setups exhibit the exact same behavior. Rebooting the Anthem or unplugging and replugging in the HDMI cable always fixes. I did not have this problem at all prior to the 3D board upgrade. However, if the board was truly defective, one would think that I wouldn't get any video at all. My next step is to completely disconnect all the cables from my Anthem, run a new 6-foot directly to the display and try again. I'll likely do that this weekend sometime.


However, if this is not an HDMI cable issue (and I'm growing more inclined that it's not) what on earth at the board-level could be causing this? I'm running firmware 3.09 and I downgraded from 3.09c to see if there was something in the "c" build that was affecting it, but it's present in both 3.09 builds.


Thoughts or additional debugging suggestions?

Thanks,

Theo


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Anthem has Placed "Test" Firmware V3.09f for the D2v and AVM 50v on their Password Protected Download Page*


Change notes since the last, Official firmware, V3.09, now read as follows:


> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v3.09f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Output channel count was displayed incorrectly when 6-ch analog input was selected - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. Further DTS-required changes.
> 
> 
> Known issue: When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source is selected, a surround upmix mode can't be selected.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed bug where AVM 50v sometimes powered on with low volume.
> 
> 
> 2. DTS-required changes for pending certification. Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements.



This firmware is for units both with and without the recent, 3D "pass through" hardware upgrade. The "Known Issue" regarding Dolby TrueHD 2.0 Bitstream input is the one I reported a bit ago. The Anthem is treating that as if it was 5.1 input. The audio SOUNDS correct (content only in the LF/RF input channels), but you can't apply Audio Surround Modes to it which ought to be available for 2.0 input. The workaround, is to use LPCM input for TrueHD 2.0 tracks. (No such problem with DD 2.0 or DTS / DTS-HD MA 2.0 tracks.)


As always, "test" firmware is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises, perhaps even requiring you to roll back to earlier firmware. Don't install "test" firmware unless you are OK with that. If you ARE OK with that, then once again, we have a Piñata full of firmware hanging in front of us. Go whack it with your testing stick and see what falls out!

--Bob


----------



## Steve Dodds

How does one access the password protected firmware?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22596215
> 
> 
> How does one access the password protected firmware?



It's no big secret, but Anthem has asked us not to publish the access info here. Primarily so they can keep some sort of loose track of who's using this stuff, and also to make sure folks understand that this isn't "finished" firmware.


Just send an email to Anthem tech support saying you would like to help test these releases and they will likely reply with the access info.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I installed "test" firmware V3.09f on my D2v/3D without problems.


It passes all of my initial sanity checks.


In particular, the DTS Bitstream input stuff appears to be working as intended.

--Bob


----------



## husker du

I understand that the original D2V units sold in late 2009, have a different video board than the newer units and that must be entirely replaced at the factory for the 3D upgrade i.e. can't be done with the upgrade kit. Does anyone have any additional information they could share? For instance, if I replace the entire video board for the 3D upgrade, will I see additional benefits? Thanks for the info.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

No absolute need to send either version to the factory for 3D upgrade. Dealers and distributors can upgrade both as long as they're willing and able (if not, they'll send it to the factory). No warranty if the end user installs either kit.


Regardless of version, I recommend the hardware upgrade only if you're interested in 3D or video processor bypass mode. There's no other significant benefit, upgradeitis therapy aside. Although the newer hardware has faster HDMI switching, almost the same can be had on any 2D "v" unit by upgrading the software from v2.xx to v3.xx.


"Original D2v" was sold through Jan-Dec 2009. The next version, which starts with serial number 142626 and shipped from late Dec 2009 to last summer, had newer HDMI chips and a different tuner module. This is visually identifiable from its coax FM antenna connector on the rear panel - the original one is threaded (screw-on) and the later one is not (slide-on). Performance is the same and the tuner change was made simply because the earlier tuner, which we used starting all the way back to the AVM 2, went out of production.


edit: HDMI passthrough -> video processor bypass mode


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38880#post_22581056
> 
> 
> Question about Anthem RS-232 and IR:
> 
> I have a question to post to the group: I just came across this product: http://www.iruleathome.com/
> 
> It's an RS-232 controller that allows you use iOS and Android devices as remotes via Wifi. This is appealing to me as I'm looking for a solution to be able to control my AVM50v and other components from other rooms and likewise control zones 2 and 3 from around the house without buying additional harmony remotes (in case you are wondering I currently have the Harmony RF remote).
> 
> Here is what I envision and want to see if this product would work:
> 
> 1) Connect the iRule via RS-232 to the Anthem
> 
> 2) Have the Anthem send our IR signals to devices in my configuration that are not RS-232 capable so that the Anthem acts as my hub
> 
> 3) OR ALTERNATIVELY connect the Anthem's IR out to my Niles IR transmitter
> 
> I'd be curious to see your thoughts on this solution or another solution that is low-cost.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Theo


Been using this on my iphone and ipad for a while now.


1) Yes but you need a hardware device such as the Global Cache GC-100-6 which is sold on the site.

2) No assuming you are only connecting the Anthem with RS232.

3) No see above.


The way you would do it is use the IR outputs out of the Global Cache device into your other devices or your Niles IR transmitter. You would not have any IR going in or out of the Anthem, RS232 only.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38880#post_22587136
> 
> 
> Good Morning David,
> 
> I will post the src measurements here shortly, I went back after I did the Quick measure and readjusted all levels. Let's see how I did?
> 
> As far as phase I used an old Rob Harley trick where, I set the subwoofer phase by reversing the the polarity of the main speakers by connecting the black speaker cable to the red speaker input, and the red speaker cable to the black speaker input. This inverts the polarity of the signal. I then play a test tone at the crossover frequency and while sitting in the listening position, have someone rotate the subwoofer's phase control. One thing that came to mind while doing this is that my subs were set at 120HZ br ARC. but the Main Left and Right were set at 60HZ, I used the 120HZ for the initial run of ARC.
> 
> I then listen for a position on the phase adjustment that produces the maximum null (least amount of bass), and know that the phase control is set perfectly. I then return the speaker leads to their normal position.
> 
> This technique works because it's easier to hear the maximum null than it is to hear the maximum peak. When the phase control is set perfectly, the main speaker's woofers will move out when the subwoofer cone is moving in, cancelling each other. When the main speaker's correct polarity is restored, the main speakers and the subwoofer are maximally in-phase. LIke to hear what you think of this technique, and am willing to try your technique with Quick Measure as well. Also since ny subs are now at two different distances from the Listening postion which distance do I use?? The closer or farther away?
> 
> THanks for the help and BTW the subs are the orginal Paridigmn Signature Servo Subs.


 

Look at the link in my sig below. I describe almost the same technique but i use several frequencies around the crossover point instead of just the crossosver.

As for the sub distance, its best to use the average in your case.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38880#post_22587876
> 
> 
> New Charts after ARC Upload last night!
> 
> If I could get some thoughts that would be Great! Also how does overall volume levels look?


 

 

Icequeen:

 

1.  Your reference levels aren't yet at the recommended 75dB level. Go to Anthem Setup Menu -> Level Calibration -> Noise Sequence: Manual to generate the white noise. Make sure your SPL meter is placed at your listening position, the first position used to perform ARC measurements. Then scroll down to the "Test Level" and adjust it until the SPL meter reads 75dB. Your left speaker will be used for this test.

 

Now the sub reference volume adjustment procedure is different. Scroll down and set all the volume trims for all speakers to zero in this setup screen. Then adjust the manual volume knob on each sub until the SPL meter reads 72 - 73dB for each sub since you have two subs in your setup. Make sure that only 1 sub is on at a time for this procedure. Quit the setup menu when you are done. ARC will fill in the volume trims as part of its procedure.

 

2.   I would also  set my subwoofer setting to flat in the Advanced Setting section of the Targets menu. Click on the Advanced button. This will extend your FR  and flatten the top as well. Your subs are rated to 10Hz (-3dB) and below so they can handle any dangerous low frequency excursions they may receive.

 

A quick way to see if you have 75dB levels correct is to perform Quick Measure(QM) and look at the average reference levels that are plotted in the graphs. If they are approximate, you are fine and ready to perform an ARC measurement.

 

- David

 

*PS*

Since your subs are very capable in the ultra low bass dept, you still have room to optimize the subs locations if you aren't worn out by now. Have you tried the Subwoofer-Crawl technique? You place your sub in your primary listening position and then crawl on your knees around the room to listen for the most uniform and deepest bass. Mark that spot and place your sub right there! You mayuse your mic on a boom if its located about 1 foot off the floor and watch the real-time plots from QM for the most uniform and extended graph plots.

 

*PPS*

Do you have bass traps in your room as well? If not, i'd recommend using and placing them in your room corners.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22594887
> 
> *HDMI output anomaly with 3D Upgrade on 50v*
> 
> I'm wondering if those of you who have a 50v with the 3D upgrade could perform a test for me. I've had some periodic HDMI video cut-outs post-3D upgrade. In terms of frequency, I'd say it's the same frequency as the audio bug would be--for example, get it twice in two days and then go a week or two without it happening.
> 
> I figured out that I can repeat the video drop *every time* by going to the VIDEO CONFIG then in option f selecting anything other than the previous selection (for example, if it was auto, setting to 12-bit, if it was 12-bit, setting it to 8 bit, etc.) and saving and the HDMI video out will die. Audio will still work, but video will not.
> 
> Theo



I've only had one temporary drop-out so far that lasted about 5 seconds. It was about an hour into the BRAVE blu-ray. Without touching anything the video came back on its own. This has NEVER happened before.


This reminds me about one issue I immediately found after the 3D upgrade but forgot to report: If I set the VIDEO CONFIG - DATA option to anything other than AUTO it results in a corrupted image (some funky color and wavy lines, not black). This is most unusual because I used to run it at 8-BIT before the upgrade, never AUTO. Setting it to AUTO immediately rights the image, no dropping.


PS - Disney's Brave TrueHD 7.1 (based on the first Dolby Atmos mix) is the most amazing soundtrack I've ever heard. Everyone audiophile in America should go and buy it now on your Black Friday week deals.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22603307
> 
> 
> I've only had one temporary drop-out so far that lasted about 5 seconds. It was about an hour into the BRAVE blu-ray. Without touching anything the video came back on its own. This has NEVER happened before.
> 
> This reminds me about one issue I immediately found after the 3D upgrade but forgot to report: If I set the VIDEO CONFIG - DATA option to anything other than AUTO it results in a corrupted image (some funky color and wavy lines, not black). This is most unusual because I used to run it at 8-BIT before the upgrade, never AUTO. Setting it to AUTO immediately rights the image, no dropping.
> 
> PS - Disney's Brave TrueHD 7.1 (based on the first Dolby Atmos mix) is the most amazing soundtrack I've ever heard. Everyone audiophile in America should go and buy it now on your Black Friday week deals.



I've also experienced that "drop out" with Blurays with my AVM50v. What happens with me is it's as though the HDMI handshake is resynchronizing. If you look at the display on the Anthem, it will lose all input parameters and then everything like 1080p, and audio signal will come back. I've purchased brand new Tributaries HDMI cables from my dealer (they recommended these), BlueJeans cables, and used Monoprice cables as additional test beds because they are cheaper. I've had the issue with all of them. I have a pretty large inventory of HDMI cables as a result of all my attempts.


My unit was sent back to Anthem and came back clear; however, I've had anomalies with signal from my Oppo BDP-83 (only BluRays) and going from there to my display as you saw. Just can't figure it out. My sense is the dealer had issues too as they told me, "The Anthem is very sensitive to HDMI cables [vs other brands]". Not sure I believe that specific statement; however, I've always been a proponent of getting certified and good quality cables.

*I'm curious: if you change the display settings as I indicated, do you also lose video?*


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22598730
> 
> *PS*
> 
> Since your subs are very capable in the ultra low bass dept, you still have room to optimize the subs locations if you aren't worn out by now. Have you tried the Subwoofer-Crawl technique?


Are you sure that the sub crawl method is compatible with multiple subs? I would think that if one were applying Welti placement practices for 2 subs, either one alone may not respond as the best location, but both taken together would yield superior results due to the cross modal cancellations.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22603920
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22603307
> 
> 
> I've only had one temporary drop-out so far that lasted about 5 seconds. It was about an hour into the BRAVE blu-ray. Without touching anything the video came back on its own. This has NEVER happened before.
> 
> This reminds me about one issue I immediately found after the 3D upgrade but forgot to report: If I set the VIDEO CONFIG - DATA option to anything other than AUTO it results in a corrupted image (some funky color and wavy lines, not black). This is most unusual because I used to run it at 8-BIT before the upgrade, never AUTO. Setting it to AUTO immediately rights the image, no dropping.
> 
> PS - Disney's Brave TrueHD 7.1 (based on the first Dolby Atmos mix) is the most amazing soundtrack I've ever heard. Everyone audiophile in America should go and buy it now on your Black Friday week deals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also experienced that "drop out" with Blurays with my AVM50v. What happens with me is it's as though the HDMI handshake is resynchronizing. If you look at the display on the Anthem, it will lose all input parameters and then everything like 1080p, and audio signal will come back. I've purchased brand new Tributaries HDMI cables from my dealer (they recommended these), BlueJeans cables, and used Monoprice cables as additional test beds because they are cheaper. I've had the issue with all of them. I have a pretty large inventory of HDMI cables as a result of all my attempts.
> 
> 
> My unit was sent back to Anthem and came back clear; however, I've had anomalies with signal from my Oppo BDP-83 (only BluRays) and going from there to my display as you saw. Just can't figure it out. My sense is the dealer had issues too as they told me, "The Anthem is very sensitive to HDMI cables [vs other brands]". Not sure I believe that specific statement; however, I've always been a proponent of getting certified and good quality cables.
> 
> *I'm curious: if you change the display settings as I indicated, do you also lose video?*
Click to expand...


The audio drop outs in "Brave", Blu-ray, are almost certainly player performance issues triggered by the way this disc is authored. They've now been reported in multiple settings (different players and different sound processors). Use of LPCM output from the player may be a cure, but there's no guarantee of that.


"Brave" has been authored with a complicated file branching scheme intended to foil disc copying software. As is often the case when studios try such cunning plans, they appear to have screwed up playback for normal viewers using legitimate discs. Deep sigh....


In the OPPO players, the older 83 and 93/95 will produce these brief audio (only) drop outs late in the film where a bunch of the file complexity happens. The newer 103/105 players do NOT appear to generate these. If the drop outs are going to happen, the time codes where they happen are known, but if you play over the same scene again the dropout does not repeat. Thus there is something structural in the disc authoring causing this, and it appears to require the disc be played from the start. Even backing up several Chapters is not enough to get the drop out to happen.


It remains to be seen whether:


1) The studio has violated the rules of Blu-ray authoring, to the detriment of people with somewhat older players, OR


2) The players (different brands) exhibiting the problem have violated the requirements of Blu-ray playback, OR


3) Blu-ray Disc Association has failed, once again, to specify the rules sufficiently, and the studio has taken advantage of this, again to the detriment of people with older, somewhat slower players.


Short of upgrading to a faster player, I know of no workaround, and I'd be surprised if Disney recalls the discs to replace them with less cunning discs that actually work. (That, too, remains to be seen.) Fortunately, the audio drop outs are few in number and brief.

--Bob


----------



## airboyd

My SACD DVD player with analog-outs just died. I've been looking at new ones but they nearly all pass the audio through an HDMI 1.4 and have no analog outs. The ones that do have 7.1 analog cables and need to be switched to PCM, and the D1/D2 only has 5.1 analog in. My D1/D2 appears stuck in HDMI version history. Everything I read seems to say that the D2 won't take the SACD audio over the HDMI (I could be wrong on that).


Anyone have any thoughts on what to do with a D2 upgrade-wise? I've been trying to see if there's any interest in people buying it for a little while now and seem to be having a lot of resistance because of the HDMI.


I had a D1 that was factory D-2/ARC upgraded in mid-2008 for around $25xx because I believed what Anthem was essentially saying and "don't worry about the HDMI versions."


No one seems interested in $3K and even $2K isn't getting much traction for resale.


Since it's now worth less than it's 2008 upgrade cost, would it even be possible for someone to come up with an after-market solution to the HDMI version issue?


I don't care about the video as much as the audio and many new players have 2 HDMI's so you can bypass the pre-amp.


I'm just trying to work around a good 7.1 solution, keeping my SACD's and not trying to break the bank on a D2v3D before a D3 comes out three months later...


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22604303
> 
> 
> The audio drop outs in "Brave", Blu-ray, are almost certainly player performance issues triggered by the way this disc is authored. They've now been reported in multiple settings (different players and different sound processors). Use of LPCM output from the player may be a cure, but there's no guarantee of that.
> 
> "Brave" has been authored with a complicated file branching scheme intended to foil disc copying software. As is often the case when studios try such cunning plans, they appear to have screwed up playback for normal viewers using legitimate discs. Deep sigh....
> 
> In the OPPO players, the older 83 and 93/95 will produce these brief audio (only) drop outs late in the film where a bunch of the file complexity happens. The newer 103/105 players do NOT appear to generate these. If the drop outs are going to happen, the time codes where they happen are known, but if you play over the same scene again the dropout does not repeat. Thus there is something structural in the disc authoring causing this, and it appears to require the disc be played from the start. Even backing up several Chapters is not enough to get the drop out to happen.
> 
> It remains to be seen whether:
> 
> 1) The studio has violated the rules of Blu-ray authoring, to the detriment of people with somewhat older players, OR
> 
> 2) The players (different brands) exhibiting the problem have violated the requirements of Blu-ray playback, OR
> 
> 3) Blu-ray Disc Association has failed, once again, to specify the rules sufficiently, and the studio has taken advantage of this, again to the detriment of people with older, somewhat slower players.
> 
> Short of upgrading to a faster player, I know of no workaround, and I'd be surprised if Disney recalls the discs to replace them with less cunning discs that actually work. (That, too, remains to be seen.) Fortunately, the audio drop outs are few in number and brief.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, that's interesting. Is what you're describing specific to BRAVE or Blurays in general and how they have been authored. I've had the dropouts on a wide-variety of blurays. From Thor to the Muppets movie to rental disks too (if I recall). Never happens at the same time stamp and always well into the movie... 45 min to 1 hour plus.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22604496
> 
> 
> My SACD DVD player with analog-outs just died. I've been looking at new ones but they nearly all pass the audio through an HDMI 1.4 and have no analog outs. The ones that do have 7.1 analog cables and need to be switched to PCM, and the D1/D2 only has 5.1 analog in. My D1/D2 appears stuck in HDMI version history. Everything I read seems to say that the D2 won't take the SACD audio over the HDMI (I could be wrong on that).
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts on what to do with a D2 upgrade-wise?


I've been using SACD over HDMI since day one on my D2. Not sure why you think you need HDMI 1.4 for SACD. None of the Anthems do DSD if that is your concern. The D2 can't take 7.1 (only 5.1) in over HDMI but are there even any 7.1 SACDs?


You are right the resale market for the D2 is depressing,


----------



## airboyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22604632
> 
> 
> I've been using SACD over HDMI since day one on my D2. Not sure why you think you need HDMI 1.4 for SACD. None of the Anthems do DSD if that is your concern. The D2 can't take 7.1 (only 5.1) in over HDMI but are there even any 7.1 SACDs?
> 
> You are right the resale market for the D2 is depressing,



The manuals online are very unclear and my forum searches have been even more vague. I'd be happy to start the official discussion that SACD works over older HDMI though










Then again the search on this forum has gotten so hard to do, because the thread is so long.


I'm thinking about holding out for the new Oppo and would love it if my SACDs are fine and it decodes 7.1 so that my D2 has a life.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22604589
> 
> 
> Bob, that's interesting. Is what you're describing specific to BRAVE or Blurays in general and how they have been authored. I've had the dropouts on a wide-variety of blurays. From Thor to the Muppets movie to rental disks too (if I recall). Never happens at the same time stamp and always well into the movie... 45 min to 1 hour plus.



What I was describing was specific to the newly released Blu-ray for "Brave".


The point is, problems like this can also be disc problems or player problems. For rental discs, the problems can simply be due to damaged or dirty discs.


As usual, if you are experiencing frequent dropouts, you should investigate whether HDMI cabling is the cause. Start by trying a reduced bandwidth signal -- e.g., 1080i. If that works but 1080p does not then that's a pretty good sign marginal cabling is involved.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22604653
> 
> 
> The manuals online are very unclear and my forum searches have been even more vague. I'd be happy to start the official discussion that SACD works over older HDMI though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then again the search on this forum has gotten so hard to do, because the thread is so long.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about holding out for the new Oppo and would love it if my SACDs are fine and it decodes 7.1 so that my D2 has a life.



SACD will work fine into the D2 when the player is set to send out LPCM for that. It will come in as 88.2KHz LPCM (2.0 or 5.1 depending on what you play from the SACD).


However, the D2 does not accept 7.1 audio input at all. The player will send out LPCM 5.1 if you play a 7.1 track. To get HDMI 7.1 audio input (LPCM or Bitstream) you will need an AVM 50v or D2v.


Similarly, the D2 can not accept 192KHz digital audio input. You'd need the new processor for that.

--Bob


----------



## airboyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22604729
> 
> 
> SACD will work fine into the D2 when the player is set to send out LPCM for that. It will come in as 88.2KHz LPCM (2.0 or 5.1 depending on what you play from the SACD).
> 
> However, the D2 does not accept 7.1 audio input at all. The player will send out LPCM 5.1 if you play a 7.1 track. To get HDMI 7.1 audio input (LPCM or Bitstream) you will need an AVM 50v or D2v.
> 
> Similarly, the D2 can not accept 192KHz digital audio input. You'd need the new processor for that.
> 
> --Bob



Yep, got it about 7.1.


Glad to hear the SACD will work. I spent well over an hour trying to work it out and 5 minutes here and it's done.


Thanks.


----------



## obie_fl

Also keep in mind 7.1 only comes into play on blu-ray (you can bitstream 7.1 DVDs). You can apply DPIIx to the 7.1 BDs and I doubt you would hear much if any difference.


Lots of Oppo owners in this thread. I personally have a BDP 83, 93 and a new 103 and their DVD players before that...it's habit forming.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22604653
> 
> 
> The manuals online are very unclear and my forum searches have been even more vague. I'd be happy to start the official discussion that SACD works over older HDMI though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then again the search on this forum has gotten so hard to do, because the thread is so long.
> 
> I'm thinking about holding out for the new Oppo and would love it if my SACDs are fine and it decodes 7.1 so that my D2 has a life.



I'm the same as Tom. I have the DVD player read the SACD and convert to LPCM output over HDMI to the D2. The Oppo does this just fine.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22603920
> 
> 
> I've also experienced that "drop out" with Blurays with my AVM50v. What happens with me is it's as though the HDMI handshake is resynchronizing. If you look at the display on the Anthem, it will lose all input parameters and then everything like 1080p, and audio signal will come back. I've purchased brand new Tributaries HDMI cables from my dealer (they recommended these), BlueJeans cables, and used Monoprice cables as additional test beds because they are cheaper. I've had the issue with all of them. I have a pretty large inventory of HDMI cables as a result of all my attempts.
> 
> My unit was sent back to Anthem and came back clear; however, I've had anomalies with signal from my Oppo BDP-83 (only BluRays) and going from there to my display as you saw. Just can't figure it out. My sense is the dealer had issues too as they told me, "The Anthem is very sensitive to HDMI cables [vs other brands]". Not sure I believe that specific statement; however, I've always been a proponent of getting certified and good quality cables.
> *I'm curious: if you change the display settings as I indicated, do you also lose video?*



I am using a BDP-83 too but what you describe sounds more like a BLACKOUT as opposed to the momentary dropout that I experienced. As Bob said that was most likely just a disc issue (Brave BD) and that's what it felt like. It might be time to get a new player finally.


What I'm more concerned about is why the new 3D board doesn't work with my old color depth setting of 8-bit. I now have to use AUTO for it to work which goes against the troubleshooting advice we keep writing here. So to answer your question, no I never completely lose video but I cannot truly perform your test because I get an ugly menu as soon as I select anything other than AUTO for color depth.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22604790
> 
> 
> Glad to hear the SACD will work. I spent well over an hour trying to work it out and 5 minutes here and it's done.
> 
> Thanks.



Make sure you don't get a Sony player, although they are nice to use, they output SACD at 176k/16-bit which your D2 will not be happy with.

The Oppos are safe, as Bob said they output 88k/24-bit which will be awesome. You'll be glad your old analog output player died


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22605034
> 
> 
> I am using a BDP-83 too but what you describe sounds more like a BLACKOUT as opposed to the momentary dropout that I experienced. As Bob said that was most likely just a disc issue (Brave BD) and that's what it felt like. It might be time to get a new player finally.
> 
> 
> What I'm more concerned about is why the new 3D board doesn't work with my old color depth setting of 8-bit. I now have to use AUTO for it to work which goes against the troubleshooting advice we keep writing here. So to answer your question, no I never completely lose video but I cannot truly perform your test because I get an ugly menu as soon as I select anything other than AUTO for color depth.



I use 8-bit all the time. No problem here.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38910#post_22604053
> 
> 
> Are you sure that the sub crawl method is compatible with multiple subs? I would think that if one were applying Welti placement practices for 2 subs, either one alone may not respond as the best location, but both taken together would yield superior results due to the cross modal cancellations.


 

You are correct but the OP has tried a version of the Welti placement and has so far produced so-so results in his room. My suggestion of finding the optimal placement of both individual speakers using the sub-crawl technique is another alternative. I'm assuming the resulting placements are fairly acceptable within the HT space. The phase knob of SUB1 would be set to zero and phase knob of SUB2 would be adjusted for the most even and extended frequency response.


----------



## spiderv6

Apologies for taking an off-topic (ish) diversion here......


So with all this talk of mastering issues and Oppo players, it set me off thinking about what I was missing by not having the Oppo, or indeed any other player.


I rip all my movies (bit-for-bit copies) to a server, and access them - stream them - to my D2V via a Dune Player. It works brilliantly.


So am I in any way compromising quality by doing this? I assume not as I am effectively passing bit-perfect data to the D2V.


What would having a player like the Oppo add to my system. Am I missing anything?


----------



## gerard1meehan

Does somene have a quick link to the ARC setup cheet sheet Bob has posted ( many many times)


Thanks


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22607444
> 
> 
> Apologies for taking an off-topic (ish) diversion here......
> 
> So with all this talk of mastering issues and Oppo players, it set me off thinking about what I was missing by not having the Oppo, or indeed any other player.
> 
> I rip all my movies (bit-for-bit copies) to a server, and access them - stream them - to my D2V via a Dune Player. It works brilliantly.
> 
> So am I in any way compromising quality by doing this? I assume not as I am effectively passing bit-perfect data to the D2V.
> 
> What would having a player like the Oppo add to my system. Am I missing anything?



I too rip all my movies to a server for playback via my HTPC. I had the Oppo-93 for awhile, but have since sold it after ISO support disappeared. My HTPC/DV2 combo produces a picture just as nice as the Oppo did, to my eyes. The server/streamer combo provides easier access to content in my house. The Oppo is nice, but for my usage it wasn't the best. I also rip all my music to FLAC and play it with a SqueezeBox.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22608002
> 
> 
> Does somene have a quick link to the ARC setup cheet sheet Bob has posted ( many many times)
> 
> Thanks


Here's one from way back in the day: http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/28920#post_18914184


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *facke02*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22608265
> 
> 
> I too rip all my movies to a server for playback via my HTPC. I had the Oppo-93 for awhile, but have since sold it after ISO support disappeared. My HTPC/DV2 combo produces a picture just as nice as the Oppo did, to my eyes. The server/streamer combo provides easier access to content in my house. The Oppo is nice, but for my usage it wasn't the best. I also rip all my music to FLAC and play it with a SqueezeBox.



The bluray video quality should be OK but are you really able to listen to DTS HD Master or Dolby True HD audio with your HTPC setup.

Usually if you can bitstream the audio from your HTPC and have the D2v decode the audio you will have no problems


----------



## facke02




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22611584
> 
> 
> The bluray video quality should be OK but are you really able to listen to DTS HD Master or Dolby True HD audio with your HTPC setup.
> 
> Usually if you can bitstream the audio from your HTPC and have the D2v decode the audio you will have no problems



Yes, my HTPC can Bitstream DTS HD Master and Dolby True HD with no problems and the D2v decodes it. Bitstreaming on the HTPC has been fairly easy to do now for several years with the latest chipsets.


----------



## mkaye

using 3.09h on my D2v

i am hearing crunching/static on my main LF/RF speakers when i am not playing anything (2 different HDMI inputs) - fairly low, but quite noticeable when you get up close to them


mark


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22605034
> 
> 
> I am using a BDP-83 too but what you describe sounds more like a BLACKOUT as opposed to the momentary dropout that I experienced. As Bob said that was most likely just a disc issue (Brave BD) and that's what it felt like. It might be time to get a new player finally.
> 
> What I'm more concerned about is why the new 3D board doesn't work with my old color depth setting of 8-bit. I now have to use AUTO for it to work which goes against the troubleshooting advice we keep writing here. So to answer your question, no I never completely lose video but I cannot truly perform your test because I get an ugly menu as soon as I select anything other than AUTO for color depth.



Yes, mine is certainly a blackout.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22616495
> 
> 
> using 3.09h on my D2v
> 
> i am hearing crunching/static on my main LF/RF speakers when i am not playing anything (2 different HDMI inputs) - fairly low, but quite noticeable when you get up close to them
> 
> mark


site only shows Beta "F" are you sure you got H?  I just checked


----------



## mkaye

sorry, you are right 'F'

no problems with previous versions (beta or otherwise)


mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22616495
> 
> 
> using 3.09h on my D2v
> 
> i am hearing crunching/static on my main LF/RF speakers when i am not playing anything (2 different HDMI inputs) - fairly low, but quite noticeable when you get up close to them
> 
> 
> mark



At the back of the D2v, swap, e.g., the LF output plug and the LS plug. If the problem stays in LF then the problem is in something external to the D2v (cables, amps, speakers leading to LF). If the problem moves to LS, then give Anthem tech support a call. There are additional diagnostic steps you can then take to isolate how that noise is getting to the D2v's outputs -- checking whether the noise changes with Volume setting, and disconnecting all other connections to make sure you are not hearing artifacts from a ground loop for example, but that sort of stuff is usually best done with someone on the phone walking you through the logical steps.

--Bob


----------



## nrwatson

I am unable to upgrade my software using windows 7 and usb serial converter through port 6

But doesn't recognise the amp

Any suggestions I have tried three serial cables (straight through)


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22619307
> 
> 
> I am unable to upgrade my software using windows 7 and usb serial converter through port 6
> 
> But doesn't recognise the amp
> 
> Any suggestions I have tried three serial cables (straight through)



Did you Reset Factory Defaults prior to trying to do the install? Among other things, that will reset any changes you may have made to the RS-232 settings in the Anthem.


It is recommended that you use the Keyspan USA-19HS usb/serial adapter. Check in Windows Device Manager to see if it is reporting any problems with the Adapter or with Com Port 6. Check section 3.15 of the Manual for suggested Com Port settings.


If you have another computer you can try this with, do that.


If these suggestions don't lead to a solution, you should probably call Anthem on Monday and let them walk you through diagnosing this.

--Bob


----------



## Murat

Hi everybody, I don't know if this was covered previously but I couldn't find in this huge thread.


So here is my problem:

Couple months ago, my dealer got the long waited 3d upgrade kit. I've sent my D2v to their service but after a few days later I was told that my D2v was one of the earlier units and can't be upgraded with the current 3D kit available. They also told me that they've just found out about this issue and will look for ways to do a different upgrade. Well, it has been a few months now and my dealer still doesn't have any info whether the earlier D2v's will be upgraded or not.


Anybody know anything about this issue and when it will be solved? (if Anthem is working on such an upgrade)


Thank You


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22619424
> 
> 
> Hi everybody, I don't know if this was covered previously but I couldn't find in this huge thread.
> 
> 
> So here is my problem:
> 
> Couple months ago, my dealer got the long waited 3d upgrade kit. I've sent my D2v to their service but after a few days later I was told that my D2v was one of the earlier units and can't be upgraded with the current 3D kit available. They also told me that they've just found out about this issue and will look for ways to do a different upgrade. Well, it has been a few months now and my dealer still doesn't have any info whether the earlier D2v's will be upgraded or not.
> 
> 
> Anybody know anything about this issue and when it will be solved? (if Anthem is working on such an upgrade)
> 
> 
> Thank You



Yes, older D2v units need the video board swapped out as part of the upgrade. Anthem has been delivering the upgrades first to people who were promised them at time of purchase, then to folks who wanted to purchase the upgrade and could be upgraded without having to swap out the video board, with that latter upgrade being last. I don't know where they are in getting stock together to do that last type of upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## shah993

I got my arc to run finally.It was the USB cable.Perhaps others may find this helpful.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38950_50#post_22619307
> 
> 
> I am unable to upgrade my software using windows 7 and usb serial converter through port 6
> 
> But doesn't recognise the amp
> 
> Any suggestions I have tried three serial cables (straight through)


A side from what Bob said above. If you have the Keyspan USB, they have new driver on the tripplite.com website, and also I seem to remember that some of the Anthem utility does not like to have the com port mapped to high, I usually keep it between 1 and 4.


----------



## bohai

This just recently started happening. As I turn the volume down, normal listening is around -29 db, the on screen display indicates that the volume is reducing, say to -50 db, but the volume is not reducing. Any idea what is going on? I had same issue last night on Z2 and also on Z1 where when I physically turned the volume down via the knob on the receiver, it did not reduce.


----------



## AuburnM5

Hey guys, I have a couple quick questions and would love some advice please! My Meridian 561M has been acting up and has finally convinced my wife that it's okay to upgrade (she's the boss it seems.) The thing I loved about the 561 was the 2 channel performance. I was initially looking at one of the MRX recievers, but I she has given me the green light to spend a bit more.


Here is my question. The system will be about 50% music, 30% TV via DirecTV, and 20% blu-ray movies on a new Oppo player (would love advice on that too) and a new 60 inch ST series Panasonic plasma. The processor is going to be paired with 3 McIntosh amps and B&W N802's. I also don't have any interest in 3D.


My system is only 5.1 and I don't see going to 7.1 anytime soon since the room is our living room as well. With all that said, do y'all think the D2 with ARC would be a good processor for my setup? My preference is to either have the Oppo and DirecTV sources be plugged directly into the TV and the audio be sent through the processor. Will the D2 allow through HDMI pass through as well? The other processors I was looking at was the MRX-300, McIntosh MX-120, or doing the older Meridian 568.2MM paired with their HDMI switcher. Obviously, my older processor couldn't handle some of the newer codecs, so I would love to try DVD-A or SACD with the new equipment. I would love everyone's thoughts on this.


----------



## nrwatson

_yes

Did reset at beginning thanks
_


----------



## paradigm25

My TV has an Audio Return Channel on one of the HDMI inputs. I connected that to one of the D2v HDMI input but did not get the TV sound through D2v. I sm trying to get the broadcast TV sound through D2v. Does D2v support Audio Return Channel?

Thanks.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22624972
> 
> 
> My TV has an Audio Return Channel on one of the HDMI inputs. I connected that to one of the D2v HDMI input but did not get the TV sound through D2v. I sm trying to get the broadcast TV sound through D2v. Does D2v support Audio Return Channel?
> 
> Thanks.



I'm pretty sure it doesn't.

John


----------



## jrisles




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22574422
> 
> 
> I have recently taken possession of an Anthem Statement D2v and the first thing i did was attempt to update to the lateste firmware. The current version was 2.10c and i downloaded the latest version 3.09 and it connected ok to the processor using the RS-232 serial connector on the processor with a RS-232 to USB converter into my laptop.
> 
> When i ran the upgrade program it recognised the processor the first part was successful (which i couldn't quite see in the status bar as it all happened so quickly) then the next step which was analysing the EEPROM software before it updated it stayed in what seemed to be in a "hung" state for about 5 minutes before i received an error message indicating the EEPROM update failed.
> 
> Now i can't even turn on the unit? Where to from here? Please don't tell me i have to send it back to the manufacturer in Canada? I live in Australia and this will be a real pain if that is the case.
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions about how to resolve this problem on this unit?



Just an update guys. I ordered the "Kanda Kit" to get my AS DV2 back to life. This kit and corresponding instructions cleared the EEPROM before i actually attempted the Firmware upgrade using the Keyspan USB to Serial adapter. I can report that unbricking my unit (using the Kanda Kit) and the corresponding FW upgrade to v3.09 went well. I now have a unit that is up to date with the latest firmware and now back in good working order.


If you are just doing a Firmware upgrade you only need the Keyspan USB to Serial Adapter;

http://www.amazon.com/Keyspan-USA-19HS-Hi-Speed-supports-Sequence/dp/B0000VYJRY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1353893310&sr=8-1&keywords=keyspan+usb+to+serial+adapter 


If you have "bricked" your unit (like i had) to "unbrick it" you will need this & the accompanying instructions. (Note to use the Kanda Kit you do need to remove the outer casing and access the mother board. If you are not confident in doing these then of course the recommendation is to return your unit back to Anthem who will do this for you. However because i live n Australia the cost of returning the unit would be about $AU200.00 and the time it would take to get the unit back to me would be in the order of months (not days)). I have a technical back ground so i didn't have an issue with attempting to unbrick my unit.;

http://www.kanda.com/products/Kanda/AVRISP-U.html 


It should also be stated that the Keyspan USB to Serial adapter is included in the Anthem Statement package. This has only been a more recent addition and my unit did not come shipped with this adapter. The mistake i made (unknowingly at the time) was that i used a USB to Serial adapter that was not suitable for this activity & i only learned of the keyspan adapter AFTER my unit was bricked when i started to research answers for my dilemma.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22624972
> 
> 
> My TV has an Audio Return Channel on one of the HDMI inputs. I connected that to one of the D2v HDMI input but did not get the TV sound through D2v. I sm trying to get the broadcast TV sound through D2v. Does D2v support Audio Return Channel?
> 
> Thanks.


It does not. (HDMI Audio Return Channel is one of many "optional" features of HDMI).


Your best bet is to use an Optical or Coax digital audio output from the TV to an input on the D2v. Presuming there is such an output on your TV, that will do the trick as Optical/Coax carries identical digital audio to what would be on the HDMI Audio Return Chanel. If the TV has a Bistream (Dolby Digital) vs. LPCM setting choice for that Optical/Coax output, use the Bitstream (Dolby Digital) choice.

--Bob


----------



## Tom Rousch

I'm new to avs forumn, and have a question about the ARC kit. My dealer sold me an arc kit that does not match my serial number on the unit. I called him and he said that this does not matter and it was Anthem's way to protect themselves from kit sharing. I'm afraid to run the software on the mismatched unit, has anyone had this happen?


----------



## paradigm25

I have an Oppo 95 and a Sony 5400ES SACD player. I think Sony sends DSD over HDMI for SACD's, so there is no choice, but I can set DSD or PCM on my Oppo to be sent to D2v. What should I use. Which would give better sound.

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Rousch*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22626759
> 
> 
> I'm new to avs forumn, and have a question about the ARC kit. My dealer sold me an arc kit that does not match my serial number on the unit. I called him and he said that this does not matter and it was Anthem's way to protect themselves from kit sharing. I'm afraid to run the software on the mismatched unit, has anyone had this happen?



The important thing is that the mic serial number matches what's shown on the install disc for the mic, because there are individual calibration data files for each mic.


The ARC software used to enforce the processor serial number match back when ARC was new and people were mostly buying ARC kits separately. But now that ARC is bundled with new products it is possible the software isn't enforcing that any longer. In any event, if you run into a problem Anthem tech support can email to you the pair of files you need to get it all matched up: The ARC license file, and the mic calibration data file.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22627224
> 
> 
> I have an Oppo 95 and a Sony 5400ES SACD player. I think Sony sends DSD over HDMI for SACD's, so there is no choice, but I can set DSD or PCM on my Oppo to be sent to D2v. What should I use. Which would give better sound.
> 
> Thanks.



The D2v does not accept HDMI DSD as a valid digital audio input format. You must use either HDMI LPCM or you must use the Analog inputs.


The OPPO does a fine job of the conversion from DSD to LPCM so no worries.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25

Bob: Thanks again, but just some clarification for my understanding:


Sony outputs DSD on HDMI by default and there is no choice, as I understand, but D2v does play it, so what happens when D2v receives DSD from the Sony.


And I have a choice of PCM or DSD under Oppo, so I should choose PCM for SACD output, correct.


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22627392
> 
> 
> Bob: Thanks again, but just some clarification for my understanding:
> 
> Sony outputs DSD on HDMI by default and there is no choice, as I understand, but D2v does play it, so what happens when D2v receives DSD from the Sony.
> 
> And I have a choice of PCM or DSD under Oppo, so I should choose PCM for SACD output, correct.



If you send DSD to the Anthem via HDMI, the D2V will literally blow up. It will also send a signal that will probably destroy any amps and speakers farther down the chain.


With the Oppo you should set SACD to LPCM, or even more destruction could ensue.


----------



## Tom Rousch

Thanks Bob for the reply.


The mic and disc match and I ran it using a serial port on my computer, but it doesn't sound quite right.


I may have to run it again and then decide if something is wrong from there.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22627392
> 
> 
> Bob: Thanks again, but just some clarification for my understanding:
> 
> 
> Sony outputs DSD on HDMI by default and there is no choice, as I understand, but D2v does play it, so what happens when D2v receives DSD from the Sony.
> 
> 
> And I have a choice of PCM or DSD under Oppo, so I should choose PCM for SACD output, correct.



DSD capability is something that's negotiated during the HDMI handshake. The player will learn from the D2v that HDMI DSD is not an acceptable format. The player will then either mute the audio output or send LPCM.


While playing an SACD on the Sony via HDMI into the D2v, press the Select button repeatedly on the D2v remote and you will get, among other things, the details of what's coming in for audio. If the Sony is sending 44.1 KHz stereo LPCM, then it has switched to playing the CD compatible layer from a "hybrid" SACD disc. (Not all SACD discs include a CD layer.) If it is sending 88.2KHz or 176.4KHz LPCM 2.0 or 5.1 then it is playing the stereo or 5.1 SACD track as you intended.


For the OPPO, you should set SACD Output PCM. If you set DSD you will still GET PCM anyway, but setting PCM is better because it simplifies the HDMI handshake.


If you want to do your own comparison in the OPPO, hook up the 5.1 Analog audio. Set HDMI Audio OFF and then you can compare SACD Output PCM and SACD Output DSD via Analog.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Rousch*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22628163
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob for the reply.
> 
> 
> The mic and disc match and I ran it using a serial port on my computer, but it doesn't sound quite right.
> 
> 
> I may have to run it again and then decide if something is wrong from there.



Screen capture and post your ARC charts and ARC Targets window here and folks here can help you figure out what's up.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AuburnM5*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22622429
> 
> 
> The thing I loved about the 561 was the 2 channel performance. I was initially looking at one of the MRX recievers, but I she has given me the green light to spend a bit more.
> 
> Here is my question. The system will be about 50% music, 30% TV via DirecTV, and 20% blu-ray movies on a new Oppo player (would love advice on that too) and a new 60 inch ST series Panasonic plasma. The processor is going to be paired with 3 McIntosh amps and B&W N802's. I also don't have any interest in 3D.
> 
> My system is only 5.1 and I don't see going to 7.1 anytime soon since the room is our living room as well. With all that said, do y'all think the D2 with ARC would be a good processor for my setup?



Yes the Statement D2 looks like a good match for these criteria. It will be a better preamp for you than the MRX or AVM-50, and a lot cheaper than a D2v or 50v. I think you will also benefit from the fully balanced circuits in the Statement line with your McIntosh amps.


> Quote:
> My preference is to either have the Oppo and DirecTV sources be plugged directly into the TV and the audio be sent through the processor. Will the D2 allow through HDMI pass through as well? The other processors I was looking at was the MRX-300, McIntosh MX-120, or doing the older Meridian 568.2MM paired with their HDMI switcher. Obviously, my older processor couldn't handle some of the newer codecs, so I would love to try DVD-A or SACD with the new equipment. I would love everyone's thoughts on this.



Let the D2 do the switching. You won't be able to bypass the video processor but it will do no harm if you leave it locked on 1080p60 output for DirectTV and 1080p24 output for the Oppo.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22627392
> 
> 
> Sony outputs DSD on HDMI by default and there is no choice, as I understand, but D2v does play it ...



The Sony is outputting DSD as PCM 176.4kHz 16-bit which the D2v is decoding just fine. Trust me I have one, and I don't recall making any setting in the Sony, I think it is automatic.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22625147
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38820#post_22574422
> 
> 
> I have recently taken possession of an Anthem Statement D2v and the first thing i did was attempt to update to the lateste firmware. The current version was 2.10c and i downloaded the latest version 3.09 and it connected ok to the processor using the RS-232 serial connector on the processor with a RS-232 to USB converter into my laptop.
> 
> When i ran the upgrade program it recognised the processor the first part was successful (which i couldn't quite see in the status bar as it all happened so quickly) then the next step which was analysing the EEPROM software before it updated it stayed in what seemed to be in a "hung" state for about 5 minutes before i received an error message indicating the EEPROM update failed.
> 
> Now i can't even turn on the unit? Where to from here? Please don't tell me i have to send it back to the manufacturer in Canada? I live in Australia and this will be a real pain if that is the case.
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions about how to resolve this problem on this unit?
> 
> 
> 
> Just an update guys. I ordered the "Kanda Kit" to get my AS DV2 back to life. This kit and corresponding instructions cleared the EEPROM before i actually attempted the Firmware upgrade using the Keyspan USB to Serial adapter. I can report that unbricking my unit (using the Kanda Kit) and the corresponding FW upgrade to v3.09 went well. I now have a unit that is up to date with the latest firmware and now back in good working order.
Click to expand...

 

Anthem had me had get the same kanda kit as you did when my D2v was bricked during a FW upgrade. Process was simple but the whole time my unit was dead was no fun.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22625541
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22624972
> 
> 
> My TV has an Audio Return Channel on one of the HDMI inputs. I connected that to one of the D2v HDMI input but did not get the TV sound through D2v. I sm trying to get the broadcast TV sound through D2v. Does D2v support Audio Return Channel?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> It does not. (HDMI Audio Return Channel is one of many "optional" features of HDMI).
> 
> 
> Your best bet is to use an Optical or Coax digital audio output from the TV to an input on the D2v. Presuming there is such an output on your TV, that will do the trick as Optical/Coax carries identical digital audio to what would be on the HDMI Audio Return Chanel. If the TV has a Bistream (Dolby Digital) vs. LPCM setting choice for that Optical/Coax output, use the Bitstream (Dolby Digital) choice.
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...

 

Does the 3-D upgrade kit support the ARC(Audio Return Channel) feature?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22628159
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22627392
> 
> 
> Bob: Thanks again, but just some clarification for my understanding:
> 
> Sony outputs DSD on HDMI by default and there is no choice, as I understand, but D2v does play it, so what happens when D2v receives DSD from the Sony.
> 
> And I have a choice of PCM or DSD under Oppo, so I should choose PCM for SACD output, correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you send DSD to the Anthem via HDMI, the D2V will literally blow up. It will also send a signal that will probably destroy any amps and speakers farther down the chain.
> 
> 
> With the Oppo you should set SACD to LPCM, or even more destruction could ensue.
Click to expand...

Huh? You're kidding, right? No blowup observed on my end for years .... The D2v just tells the Oppo re-send data in LPCM.


----------



## airboyd

All of these 7.1 questions came about because I got two more speakers.


So, I re-ran ARC for the new set-up and the crossover got set on the Sub to 5Hz and -10db and almost no bass was coming out the sub at all.


I know that the crossovers and settings in ARC aren't a dead stop cut-off, but I've had issues in the past where the sub was set extremely low -12db in the ARC upload.


I'm getting ready to re-run it to figure out what's wrong as I was really missing my bass, but is this just an upload error or is there some info coming from the speakers to do this.


Keep in mind I am running the L-R in ARC as FLAT per previous discussion and I'm using the latest non-testing ARC on a D1/D2. I've added my latest screen shots. My 75db reference seems a little low, but I don't see anything to upset the sub.


"The FLAT setting in ARC allows for no room correction below 20hz, which can be a good thing on some larger speakers in larger rooms. FULL RANGE still treats the speakers as large but limits sub-20hz response to prevent standing waves in certain installs. " - Tech Support


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22636283
> 
> 
> Yesterday I connected my D2v to Oppo 95's HDMI-1 and lost picture. My primary output in Oppo is set to HDMI-1.
> 
> When I connect Oppo HDMI-2 to the D2v it is fine. Has anyone had this issue, any solutions. Oppo tech support says to try to switch cables and use a longer cable between Oppo and D2v. Currently I am using only a 3 feet cable between Oppo and D2v.
> 
> Thanks.



Bob has suggested on many occasions to use 6' cable and not less than that. So oppo said the same so try that first.

John


----------



## paradigm25

Here is little correction to what I had reported earlier.


When I connect my D2v to Oppo 95's HDMI-1 I only get left and right audio channels from Oppo to D2v while the disc is actually playing 7.1 track. I checked that by pressing the select button on the remote, and Oppo display also says TrueHD. When I switch to Anlg DIR, I get 7.1 coming in. My primary output in Oppo is set to HDMI-1.


When I connect Oppo HDMI-2 to the D2v it is fine. Has anyone had this issue, any solutions. Oppo tech support says to try to switch cables and use a longer cable between Oppo and D2v and I tried using longer 6' cable which came with the Oppo and still no change.


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If you have both HDMI 1 and 2 connections live from the OPPO, then HDMI 1 will only carry a stereo down mix of whatever audio track you are playing -- intended for use with a Display's built-in speakers. HDMI 2 carries the full set of audio formats.

--Bob


----------



## SteveLV

Ok gang. Have the clearance from the Boss to outfit the man cave in the basement. I am starting from scratch. Primarily movies, but also enjoy music and have a fairly decent build up of SACD's.


I like the new Oppo 103. I like the top of the line Anthem. However, the Oppo has 6 outputs for SACD, but the Anthem does not take those inputs.


I like SACD, so what in the real world am I losing if I go HDMI instead with the Anthem? Is there a work-around?


Thanks!


Steve


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SteveLV*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22642746
> 
> 
> Ok gang. Have the clearance from the Boss to outfit the man cave in the basement. I am starting from scratch. Primarily movies, but also enjoy music and have a fairly decent build up of SACD's.
> 
> I like the new Oppo 103. I like the top of the line Anthem. However, the Oppo has 6 outputs for SACD, but the Anthem does not take those inputs.
> 
> I like SACD, so what in the real world am I losing if I go HDMI instead with the Anthem? Is there a work-around?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Steve



Have the Oppo send the SACD as PCM over HDMI to the D2v. Works just fine.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^ Actually the D2v DOES have 6-Channel Analog Input.


So you can use either HDMI LPCM audio or multi-channel Analog audio for playing SACDs from the OPPO 103. Use ANALOG-DSP in Source Setup for the 6-CH Source so that ARC can be applied to it. Use HDMI for Video in either case.


HDMI audio will sound identical to Analog audio input from the SACDs, and of course is a lot easier to set up. But Analog can be used also, if you feel like experimenting.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25

Bob: I need some advice/clarification:


I have an Oppo 95, D2v, and P5, and I am trying to setup the system from scratch because I readjusted the speakers, etc.


I listen to both HDMI, and Analog Dir from my Oppo, and I was trying to setup few things last night before I ran ARC this evening.


First off when I tried to set the Test Level in Level Calibration in D2v to 75db, as soon as I changed the test level from +0.0, it straight jumped to -10.0db, and it would only go lower (-11.0, -11.5, etc.), I could not move it between 0.0 to -10.0db, this is something new, and what I was trying to do is to set the Test Level and also set the Volume Control knob on my Sub25. The only way to get it back to 0 is to Reset Factory Default". I have just one Sub and I am running 3.09.


Another thing is that I want to use ARC for movies, etc. but I am leaning towards Anlg DIR for music, so to do that I will have to set the Audio Processing in my Oppo. I set all speakers to Small, and I will play with crossover between 80, and 60Hz, but my question is about the Volume Trims and Sub setup again. I think I want to set all speakers for same sound pressure with SPL meter (depending upon volume level from D2v), but I have seen you mention to set the Sub at +5.0db or maybe +10.0db regardless, is that correct. If that is correct then can you please explain briefly why?


Also, I was looking for an easier (for someone not trained to hear the difference) way to phase align the sub, and I thought there was something on AIX disc for that but I did not find anything, I will try to phase align my sub using FM noise, but is there any other as I said easier way to do this, because in the past I could not hear any difference even when I turned the phase knob from 0 to 100 (dealer help is not an option in my area).


Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Check the Max Volume setting in Setup. If you've lowered that, then the levels will be limited as to how high they can go, particularly if you have positive volume trims for some of the other speakers. You may have lowered Max Volume and forgotten about it.


Setting things up to work BOTH for Analog Direct and for normal processed audio is tricky. Test levels using the LPCM test tracks from the AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray. If the SPL levels are right when tested that way then you have things set up correctly -- i.e., you've already taken care of any needed Subwoofer boost.


Hearing the Phase setting difference just takes patience. The effect is subtle so it is mainly a matter of training your ears.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22644703
> 
> 
> Bob: I need some advice/clarification:
> 
> I have an Oppo 95, D2v, and P5, and I am trying to setup the system from scratch because I readjusted the speakers, etc.
> 
> I listen to both HDMI, and Analog Dir from my Oppo, and I was trying to setup few things last night before I ran ARC this evening.
> 
> First off when I tried to set the Test Level in Level Calibration in D2v to 75db, as soon as I changed the test level from +0.0, it straight jumped to -10.0db, and it would only go lower (-11.0, -11.5, etc.), I could not move it between 0.0 to -10.0db, this is something new, and what I was trying to do is to set the Test Level and also set the Volume Control knob on my Sub25. The only way to get it back to 0 is to Reset Factory Default". I have just one Sub and I am running 3.09.
> 
> Another thing is that I want to use ARC for movies, etc. but I am leaning towards Anlg DIR for music, so to do that I will have to set the Audio Processing in my Oppo. I set all speakers to Small, and I will play with crossover between 80, and 60Hz, but my question is about the Volume Trims and Sub setup again. I think I want to set all speakers for same sound pressure with SPL meter (depending upon volume level from D2v), but I have seen you mention to set the Sub at +5.0db or maybe +10.0db regardless, is that correct. If that is correct then can you please explain briefly why?
> 
> Also, I was looking for an easier (for someone not trained to hear the difference) way to phase align the sub, and I thought there was something on AIX disc for that but I did not find anything, I will try to phase align my sub using FM noise, but is there any other as I said easier way to do this, because in the past I could not hear any difference even when I turned the phase knob from 0 to 100 (dealer help is not an option in my area).
> 
> Thanks again.



Great idea to have a dedicated Stereo setup using Analog Direct. Just for clarification you do know no sub woofer output is available or used with Analog Direct..

To use your sub woofer with a stereo setup you have to use Analog Dig which also turns on ARC.

For critical stereo listening with good audiophile sources anything but Analog Direct is detrimental to the sound.

To maximize the system for stereo you should be using the two stereo RCA output connections on the OPPO into the Analog inputs of the D2v.

For SACD Stereo listening you can set the OPPO on PCM and use the HDMI connection from the OPPO to D2v. For Multi channel use the OPPO 7.1 analog outputs to the D2v multi channel analog inputs.

When you have everything setup and working properly the way you like let me know and I will turn you on to playing the ultimate audiophile sound DSD.

DSD is amazing. Nothing like it and far exceeding Hi Rez 192/24 downloads or upsampling.


----------



## paradigm25

Thank you Bob, as always. I will be doing the fresh setup tonight and report back.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22645679
> 
> 
> Great idea to have a dedicated Stereo setup using Analog Direct. Just for clarification you do know no sub woofer output is available or used with Analog Direct.
> 
> To use your sub woofer with a stereo setup you have to use Analog Dig which also turns on ARC.
> 
> For critical stereo listening with good audiophile sources anything but Analog Direct is detrimental to the sound.
> 
> To maximize the system for stereo you should be using the two stereo RCA output connections on the OPPO into the Analog inputs of the D2v.
> 
> For SACD Stereo listening you can set the OPPO on PCM and use the HDMI connection from the OPPO to D2v. For Multi channel use the OPPO 7.1 analog outputs to the D2v multi channel analog inputs.
> 
> When you have everything setup and working properly the way you like let me know and I will turn you on to playing the ultimate audiophile sound DSD.
> 
> DSD is amazing. Nothing like it and far exceeding Hi Rez 192/24 downloads or upsampling.



Thanks "thestewman". My problem is sound, and I am trying to optimize that. If you have not read my earlier posts, this is my equipment:


Oppo 95

Sony 5400ES (CD, SACD)

D2v

P5 from Anthem

All Paradigm Speakers, S-8's, S-2's, C-3, Sub25; basically a 5.1 arrangement.


I know when you say no sub under Analog Direct, but if you do Audio Processing setting in Oppo and say ON to Sub, set speakers to small, and set a crossover setting, then I think Oppo will engage the sub, correct me if I am wrong, or maybe you mean to say to be pure analog say OFF to sub, and set speakers to large and just play pure Analog Direct.


In my Sony 5400ES there is no choice; when you go analog, no crossover, etc., but it has Left and Right channels only as Analog outs.


Now as of SACD's and DVD-A's also I can and would like to use Anlg DIR, therefore I have the Oppo Analog Output connected to the D2v 6-ch analog inputs, but I am saying ON to sub, and applying crossover, if I say OFF to Sub under Oppo Audio Processing Speaker Configuration, then I will lose the sub channel from the SACD's, DVD-A's also, so I think you have to say ON to sub and apply crossover, and that sort of defaults to saying Small for speakers. Please help and advice. Thanks.


----------



## mkaye

had to go back to 'C', not only static when i moved the cursor on each device, but then no audio at all

powering on off didn't help


kaye


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38940#post_22617485
> 
> 
> sorry, you are right 'F'
> 
> no problems with previous versions (beta or otherwise)
> 
> mark


----------



## p.las

Hey.

Anybody having problem with the new total recall. I having major Sound drop out from start to finnish. Making my oppo bdp83 decoding , solves the problem. My Unit is a avm50v firmware 3.09.


----------



## XStanleyX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22646974
> 
> 
> Hey.
> 
> Anybody having problem with the new total recall. I having major Sound drop out from start to finnish. Making my oppo bdp83 decoding , solves the problem. My Unit is a avm50v firmware 3.09.



That won't be released here in the states until December 18. I think the Austrailians get it earlier than we do also. Probably some other countires also.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *XStanleyX*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22646993
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22646974
> 
> 
> Hey.
> 
> Anybody having problem with the new total recall. I having major Sound drop out from start to finnish. Making my oppo bdp83 decoding , solves the problem. My Unit is a avm50v firmware 3.09.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That won't be released here in the states until December 18. I think the Austrailians get it earlier than we do also. Probably some other countires also.
Click to expand...


This is almost certainly not an AVM 50v problem, but rather that Sony has done something stupid with new anti-copying techniques in the way the disc is authored which is screwing up the OPPO BDP-83. Since LPCM works, whatever Sony has done is likely forcing the audio stream to restart -- which takes longer to set up for Bitstream output than for LPCM output.


Anyway, please email OPPO tech support with the details, including the complete bar code number from the disc packaging.

--Bob


----------



## tspotorno

I recently traded in my D2 for a D2v3D.


I tried my first 3d Movie tonight and I had a lot of issues.


DVD player is an Oppo 105. I have hdmi port 1 going directly to the TV atm (Panasonic Vt50) and the 2nd hdmi going to the D2. It is setup like this because the old D2 didnt have pass thru.


I can play regular bluray disks fine, however, I tried to watch Men in Black 3D, I could not get any audio to come out of the D2?


I tried several config options but nothing seemed to work.


For 3d movies I do the following:


1. Set oppo to dual displays.

2. Switch video output on D2 to passthru


Using this I get no sound from the D2, If i switch tv to input hooked directly up to the oppo, The picture was losing sync and again I get no sound from the tv.

Power off the D2 and then I get sound from the TV when using the alternate input hooked directly to the oppo.


So my questions:


How should I setup the Oppo 105 with the D2v3D so I can watch both standard bluray and 3d blurays?


Thanks,

Tony


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22646270
> 
> 
> Thanks "thestewman". My problem is sound, and I am trying to optimize that. If you have not read my earlier posts, this is my equipment:
> 
> Oppo 95
> 
> Sony 5400ES (CD, SACD)
> 
> D2v
> 
> P5 from Anthem
> 
> All Paradigm Speakers, S-8's, S-2's, C-3, Sub25; basically a 5.1 arrangement.
> 
> I know when you say no sub under Analog Direct, but if you do Audio Processing setting in Oppo and say ON to Sub, set speakers to small, and set a crossover setting, then I think Oppo will engage the sub, correct me if I am wrong, or maybe you mean to say to be pure analog say OFF to sub, and set speakers to large and just play pure Analog Direct.
> 
> In my Sony 5400ES there is no choice; when you go analog, no crossover, etc., but it has Left and Right channels only as Analog outs.
> 
> Now as of SACD's and DVD-A's also I can and would like to use Anlg DIR, therefore I have the Oppo Analog Output connected to the D2v 6-ch analog inputs, but I am saying ON to sub, and applying crossover, if I say OFF to Sub under Oppo Audio Processing Speaker Configuration, then I will lose the sub channel from the SACD's, DVD-A's also, so I think you have to say ON to sub and apply crossover, and that sort of defaults to saying Small for speakers. Please help and advice. Thanks.



This is slightly complicated as you are setting up two different systems. One is analog and the other digital. You are using two devices that would individually handle bass management and speaker setup so you do not want them conflicting.


OPPO

The speaker setup does not effect any analog output so anything you set will not effect the stereo or multi-channel analog outputs you are using.

In the OPPO speaker setup you should set ALL speakers to high and the distance to 12 and subwoofer to On or Yes as the speaker setup will be handled in the D2v ARC setup.


I think this how I would suggest you connect the two CD/SACD/DVD-Audio sound sources to get maximum utilization


Sony 5400 ES

Balanced stereo output to D2v Balanced stereo input

HDMI to any HDMI input on the D2v


OPPO 95

Single ended stereo output to CD Left and Right Stereo analog input

Hdmi to any D2v HDMI input

7.1 Multi channel analog output to the D2v 7.1 analog input


D2v

In Setup for Sources

2 channel select Audio In as Analog Direct and Analog Audio 2Ch Bal........................This will play your Sony 5400ES as analog stereo when selected on the D2v

6-Ch SACD Setup select Audio In as Analog DSP and Analog Audio as 6ch S/E............This will play your OPPO multichannel SACDs and use your subwoofer when selected

CD select Audio In as Analog Direct and Analog audio as CD....................................This will play your OPPO as analog stereo when sele\cted on the D2v

DVD set up 1 for the OPPO HDMI input and 1 for the Sony HDMI input.......................This will allow you to use ARC for SACD/DVD/BluRay on the OPPO or the SONY

You will, still have 2 additional DVD sources you can use.....


Set up ARC as per BOB P's instructions. ARC will set the crossovers in the setup and the cutoffs in ARC and you should not be readjusting them


----------



## jrisles

  
 


My first ARC of my room.


Any suggestions?


My speakers are as follows;

Front = Adam Tensor Gamma
Rear = Adam Tensor Epsilon
Surround = Adam Artist 5
Centre = Adam C9
Subs = JL Audio F113 (x2)


I have my subs setup next to my mains on the inside. Mains are positioned about 2.5m from front wall and 2m from the side walls


Given this is my first attempt at anything like this would appreciate any feedback you might have.


Just to confirm that when using the ARC the 1st mic position is in the middle where the normal listening position would be (if listening to music) and that each other position in a 5 mic positioning ARC are either side of the mic. Does it matter whether the 2nd mic position starts off on the left or right hand side of centre? As long as each subsequent mic position is symmetrical to the previous recording position? (ie. 1st mic = centre, 2nd mic = left to centre; 3rd mic = right to centre, 4th mic = further left of centre; 5th mic = further right of centre etc)


I can't say i play too much with the settings of the D2v itself .. so for the most part it would all be default settings.


Thank you


----------



## terryshep

yes I have drop outs on total recall d2v 3d and oppo 93 glad its not just me


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22648168
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first ARC of my room.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> My speakers are as follows;
> Front = Adam Tensor Gamma
> Rear = Adam Tensor Epsilon
> Surround = Adam Artist 5
> Centre = Adam C9
> Subs = JL Audio F113 (x2)
> 
> I have my subs setup next to my mains on the inside. Mains are positioned about 2.5m from front wall and 2m from the side walls
> 
> Given this is my first attempt at anything like this would appreciate any feedback you might have.
> 
> Just to confirm that when using the ARC the 1st mic position is in the middle where the normal listening position would be (if listening to music) and that each other position in a 5 mic positioning ARC are either side of the mic. Does it matter whether the 2nd mic position starts off on the left or right hand side of centre? As long as each subsequent mic position is symmetrical to the previous recording position? (ie. 1st mic = centre, 2nd mic = left to centre; 3rd mic = right to centre, 4th mic = further left of centre; 5th mic = further right of centre etc)
> 
> I can't say i play too much with the settings of the D2v itself .. so for the most part it would all be default settings.
> 
> Thank you


Your charts look very good. Post your Targets' View so that we can see what ARC has set your cutoffs. I think you should just sit back and listen to what you have for about a week or two to give your ears a chance to adjust to what ARC has done for your setup.


As for the mic positions, the most important position is the 1st position which is your main listening position (MLP). After that you should shift the mic at least 2' left or right, it doesn't matter, from the MLP. So, what you did is not wrong; but, adding a little variation might be a little better. Maybe for positions 2 and 3, you might shift the mic left or right but place it a little towards the front of the MLP, and for mic positions 4 and 5, you may shift the mic left or right but a little bit behind the MLP. For this really, you just have to experiment and see what works for you. Right now, you have a very good baseline to work from. But, for right now, I would just take some time to listen to what ARC has done for your setup to determine if you like it. BTW, don't forget to post your Targets' View.


One little tweak that I can suggest for your sub. If you haven't done it, you should set your set to "Flat". You can do this by bringing up your Targets' View, click the Advanced Button, Change the sub setting from "Auto" to "Flat", click Ok, click OK, click Calculate, Save your ARC file, click Upload, Save user/installer settings in your D2v. You DON'T have to remeasure when you make this change. What the "Flat" setting does is not roll off any of the Low Frequencies (LF). Instead it sends all the LF to your sub. This will allow you to feel a little more oomph in the LF.


Congratulations and I hope I was a help for you!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tspotorno*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22647976
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> So my questions:
> 
> 
> How should I setup the Oppo 105 with the D2v3D so I can watch both standard bluray and 3d blurays?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tony



Set OPPO 105 to Split A/V, not Dual Display, if you want to use two HDMI cables from the OPPO for this.


However, 1 cable should suffice.


Cable HDMI 1 from the OPPO to the D2v (HDMI Inputs 1-4 only; HDMI 5-8 will not work for 3D). Remove any cable in the HDMI 2 output from the OPPO so there is only one HDMI cable plugged into the OPPO. Cable the UPPER HDMI output of the D2v to your 3D Display (the lower output of the D2v will not work for 3D).


In the OPPO set Resolution 1080p, 1080p/24 AUTO, 3D Mode AUTO, HDMI Audio LPCM.


In the D2v you will need a Setup > Source Setup definition which takes input from the OPPO and uses "THROUGH" as the Video Output Configuration. You will use that Source whenever you want to play 3D video from the OPPO. You could also use it for 2D video from the OPPO but you won't have any video processing options in the D2v and you won't be able to view on-screen info such as Volume changes from the D2v. If you want to do either of those set up a SECOND Setup > Source Setup definition which also takes input from the OPPO and uses your normal Video Output Configuration and use that when viewing stuff OTHER THAN 3D. In either case, specify in the Source Setup definition that your Audio Input is HDMI DIG -- i.e., the audio coming in on that HDMI cable from the OPPO.


If you are still having problems, it is possible that your old HDMI cabling is not able to carry the higher bandwidth of the new HDMI signals the OPPO and your new D2v can produce. It happens.


Start by turning off Deep Color in the OPPO, and ALSO set 8-bit video output format in your Video Output Configuration in the D2v.


If even that doesn't work, temporarily set the output of the OPPO to 1080i and also the output of the D2v to 1080i. If 1080i works (for 2D discs; it can't be used for 3D), but 1080p does not, or if 1080p only works with Deep Color OFF, then you may need to upgrade your HDMI cables to "High Speed" cables. If you have any adapters, wall plates, HDMI switches, daisy-chained cables, extra video processors, or any other such stuff in the HDMI path, then that could be the cause of your problem. For example, there are lots of wall plates out there which are only good up to 1080i. The cable that comes with the OPPO is good, so the problem would be in the cable from the D2v to the Display.

--Bob


----------



## jrisles




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22648403
> 
> 
> Your charts look very good. Post your Targets' View so that we can see what ARC has set your cutoffs. I think you should just sit back and listen to what you have for about a week or two to give your ears a chance to adjust to what ARC has done for your setup.
> 
> As for the mic positions, the most important position is the 1st position which is your main listening position (MLP). After that you should shift the mic at least 2' left or right, it doesn't matter, from the MLP. So, what you did is not wrong; but, adding a little variation might be a little better. Maybe for positions 2 and 3, you might shift the mic left or right but place it a little towards the front of the MLP, and for mic positions 4 and 5, you may shift the mic left or right but a little bit behind the MLP. For this really, you just have to experiment and see what works for you. Right now, you have a very good baseline to work from. But, for right now, I would just take some time to listen to what ARC has done for your setup to determine if you like it. BTW, don't forget to post your Targets' View.
> 
> One little tweak that I can suggest for your sub. If you haven't done it, you should set your set to "Flat". You can do this by bringing up your Targets' View, click the Advanced Button, Change the sub setting from "Auto" to "Flat", click Ok, click OK, click Calculate, Save your ARC file, click Upload, Save user/installer settings in your D2v. You DON'T have to remeasure when you make this change. What the "Flat" setting does is not roll off any of the Low Frequencies (LF). Instead it sends all the LF to your sub. This will allow you to feel a little more oomph in the LF.
> 
> Congratulations and I hope I was a help for you!!!



Thank you for taking the time to respond.


Attached is what i believe it the "Target" view that you are referring too & i will try the tweak you have suggested.


Does this "Target" view reveal anything?


----------



## studlygoorite

It reveals that everything looks good.


----------



## jrisles




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22648635
> 
> 
> It reveals that everything looks good.



Really? I thought that i had a serious problem with the upper frequencies cause they all look to drop away very quickly from about 6kHz onwards? I must not be reading the charts correctly?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22648541
> 
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to respond.
> 
> Attached is what i believe it the "Target" view that you are referring too & i will try the tweak you have suggested.
> 
> Does this "Target" view reveal anything?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22648696
> 
> 
> Really? I thought that i had a serious problem with the upper frequencies cause they all look to drop away very quickly from about 6kHz onwards? I must not be reading the charts correctly?



You are correct

Look at the Target results and you will see that the Max Hi freq cutoff is set at 5000 KHz. This is Anthem's recommended Max Hi Freq cutoff frequency.

Several D2v users have set it higher and then listened to the results to decide which sounds better.

One thing to remember is the higher you set the Hi Freq cutoff the less resources ARC has for the lower frequencies.


----------



## tspotorno

Bob,


Thanks!! Your instructions worked and I can now play 3D movies thru the D2v3D.


I have a question, we are in the process of moving to a projector the Sony VW1000ES.


Can I still use the THROUGH video output on the D2v3D to send a 4k signal to the projector? I know there is not much in 4K disks atm, but I'm thinking about the future and how to hook up the new projector.


Thanks,


Tony


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22648541
> 
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to respond.
> 
> Attached is what i believe it the "Target" view that you are referring too & i will try the tweak you have suggested.
> 
> Does this "Target" view reveal anything?


Yes, that you are in good shape.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22648635
> 
> 
> It reveals that everything looks good.


+1



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22648696
> 
> 
> Really? I thought that i had a serious problem with the upper frequencies cause they all look to drop away very quickly from about 6kHz onwards? I must not be reading the charts correctly?


Anthem recommends not going above 5 kHz for the Max High Frequency because the mic is not reliable once you try to correct the upper frequencies. So, that's why you are seeing such a drop off. However, you can always try playing around with different frequencies and see how your charts look. You don't have to remeasure for this. However, this will require a lot of listening because you will need to upload each time you change the frequency if you want to listen to the change.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22648925
> 
> 
> You are correct
> 
> Look at the Target results and you will see that the Max Hi freq cutoff is set at 5000 KHz. This is Anthem's recommended Max Hi Freq cutoff frequency.
> 
> Several D2v users have set it higher and then listened to the results to decide which sounds better.
> 
> One thing to remember is the higher you set the Hi Freq cutoff the less resources ARC has for the lower frequencies.


+1


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22649231
> 
> 
> Yes, that you are in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> Anthem recommends not going above 5 kHz for the Max High Frequency because the mic is not reliable once you try to correct the upper frequencies. So, that's why you are seeing such a drop off. However, you can always try playing around with different frequencies and see how your charts look. You don't have to remeasure for this. However, this will require a lot of listening because you will need to upload each time you change the frequency if you want to listen to the change.
> 
> +1



High freq are also very directional. If the tweaters in your speakers are not pointing at the listening position or mic positions it could cause the curve to drop rapidly.


----------



## chileboy

I think I know the answer to this after reading through a number of older posts, but I just want to confirm.


If I'm OK with including the subwoofer in 2-channel mode (for my music), is there any reason to run ARC with separate Movie and Music configurations?


My understanding is that I would only need to have separate Movie and Music ARC configs if I only want my Fronts in 2-channel.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22649551
> 
> 
> I think I know the answer to this after reading through a number of older posts, but I just want to confirm.
> 
> If I'm OK with including the subwoofer in 2-channel mode (for my music), is there any reason to run ARC with separate Movie and Music configurations?
> 
> My understanding is that I would only need to have separate Movie and Music ARC configs if I only want my Fronts in 2-channel.



Absolutely no reason at all as you stated


To use your subwoofer with 2 channel stereo all you need to do is select Analog Digital when setting your 2 channel source or if

using HDMI or a digital input you can change the mode to 2 channel stereo.

Just remember you have no subwoofer when using Analog Direct


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22649656
> 
> 
> Absolutely no reason at all as you stated
> 
> To use your subwoofer with 2 channel stereo all you need to do is select Analog Digital when setting your 2 channel source or if
> 
> using HDMI or a digital input you can change the mode to 2 channel stereo.
> 
> Just remember you have no subwoofer when using Analog Direct



Got it - Thanks!


- Mark


----------



## nrwatson

Help I am having a problem with Kaleidescape player and The Anthem

I can play a dvd with no problem but when I pause the player I get a hi pitched sound through the system and I have to turn the player off and on to get up and running

I have upgraded the software hoping it would cure things but no success

Thanks


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22648213
> 
> 
> yes I have drop outs on total recall d2v 3d and oppo 93 glad its not just me



Are we talking about the new Sony remake or the newly remastered old Lionsgate movie?


----------



## jrisles




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22648925
> 
> 
> You are correct
> 
> Look at the Target results and you will see that the Max Hi freq cutoff is set at 5000 KHz. This is Anthem's recommended Max Hi Freq cutoff frequency.
> 
> Several D2v users have set it higher and then listened to the results to decide which sounds better.
> 
> One thing to remember is the higher you set the Hi Freq cutoff the less resources ARC has for the lower frequencies.



So are you essentially saying that the Anthem deliberately begins to roll off anything above 5kHz? That is 5kHz!! So much more information exists above 5kHz. Now i understand that above these frequencies measurements become less reliable but is that a good enough reason to roll them off when listening to movies and/or music? Given the human ear can hear frequencies up to 20kHz?


Also your last comment about resource allocation has to assume that when processing higher frequencies the Anthem "needs" to process the lower frequencies at the same time. It only becomes an issue if both high and low frequencies need to processed at the same point in time. Also from a "processor" point of view it is merely "shunting" or "directing" frequencies or signals around. Unlike a speaker or dedicated sub that actually needs to reproduce them. I can't see how "processing" a signal irrespective of frequency could have an overhead on the Anthem processor. I would have thought the "overhead" on the processor is independent of the frequency? The real demand on frequencies (or sound) is done by the speakers and/or subs?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22649231
> 
> 
> Yes, that you are in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> Anthem recommends not going above 5 kHz for the Max High Frequency because the mic is not reliable once you try to correct the upper frequencies. So, that's why you are seeing such a drop off. However, you can always try playing around with different frequencies and see how your charts look. You don't have to remeasure for this. However, this will require a lot of listening because you will need to upload each time you change the frequency if you want to listen to the change.
> 
> +1



I might jst try this because i think a roll out at 5kHz is seriously limiting. But i guess the proof will be in the listening. Would be good to hear from other D2v users who may have played around with this high Max Freq EQ and what their experiences have been to date.


Also does it matter what i name the ARC file? Or does the file always have to be title - Anthem Room Correction?


Once i upload the file is there anything else i need to do in the menu system of the anthem? Or do these settings just take effect whenever i am listening to movies or music? These settings once uploaded now become the "Default" settings. Nothing else needs to be configured within the Anthem itself?


Thank You


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22650381
> 
> 
> So are you essentially saying that the Anthem deliberately begins to roll off anything above 5kHz? That is 5kHz!! So much more information exists above 5kHz. Now i understand that above these frequencies measurements become less reliable but is that a good enough reason to roll them off when listening to movies and/or music? Given the human ear can hear frequencies up to 20kHz?
> 
> Also your last comment about resource allocation has to assume that when processing higher frequencies the Anthem "needs" to process the lower frequencies at the same time. It only becomes an issue if both high and low frequencies need to processed at the same point in time. Also from a "processor" point of view it is merely "shunting" or "directing" frequencies or signals around. Unlike a speaker or dedicated sub that actually needs to reproduce them. I can't see how "processing" a signal irrespective of frequency could have an overhead on the Anthem processor. I would have thought the "overhead" on the processor is independent of the frequency? The real demand on frequencies (or sound) is done by the speakers and/or subs?
> 
> I might jst try this because i think a roll out at 5kHz is seriously limiting. But i guess the proof will be in the listening. Would be good to hear from other D2v users who may have played around with this high Max Freq EQ and what their experiences have been to date.
> 
> Also does it matter what i name the ARC file? Or does the file always have to be title - Anthem Room Correction?
> 
> Once i upload the file is there anything else i need to do in the menu system of the anthem? Or do these settings just take effect whenever i am listening to movies or music? These settings once uploaded now become the "Default" settings. Nothing else needs to be configured within the Anthem itself?
> 
> Thank You


I have always left mine name as Anthem Room Correction; but, I believe you can rename the file to be anything that you like. Once you upload the file, just make sure you go into the menu for your D2v and save user and/or installer settings. Once you have saved the results, then they will become your default settings.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22646974
> 
> 
> Hey.
> 
> Anybody having problem with the new total recall. I having major Sound drop out from start to finnish. Making my oppo bdp83 decoding , solves the problem. My Unit is a avm50v firmware 3.09.



Also the same problem with the movie Brave. Like the total recall , this i also a Dolby true hd track


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22650309
> 
> 
> Are we talking about the new Sony remake or the newly remastered old Lionsgate movie?


Aren't they both DTS HDMA?

Sony remake 
Remastered Lionsgate


----------



## jrisles




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22650720
> 
> 
> I have always left mine name as Anthem Room Correction; but, I believe you can rename the file to be anything that you like. Once you upload the file, just make sure you go into the menu for your D2v and save user and/or installer settings. Once you have saved the results, then they will become your default settings.



Thank You. I have done as you have suggested. I also checked the "Speaker Configuration" menu settings and all of the speakers had the same settings as was provided in the ARC "Target Customisation" parameters that i posted earlier. Although there did appear to be one anomaly. In the Anthem Menu setting it was saying only I only had one Sub when i have two? Any reason why it didn't recognise the fact i had two subs? Was there perhaps something i did (or didn't do) in the ARC Program?


Also with respect to the "Max Eq Frequency" setting listed in the Target Customisation screen where do i find this setting in the Anthem Menu setting?


Thank you once again. Your assistance is greatly appreciated as i try to grapple with the strengths and complexities of this wonderful Processor.


regards

Jeff


----------



## jrisles




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22648635
> 
> 
> It reveals that everything looks good.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22649231
> 
> 
> Yes, that you are in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1



Not having a lot of experience in these matters what is it about the graphs i have posted indicates to you that they look good?


Thank You


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22650865
> 
> 
> Thank You. I have done as you have suggested. I also checked the "Speaker Configuration" menu settings and all of the speakers had the same settings as was provided in the ARC "Target Customisation" parameters that i posted earlier. Although there did appear to be one anomaly. In the Anthem Menu setting it was saying only I only had one Sub when i have two? Any reason why it didn't recognise the fact i had two subs? Was there perhaps something i did (or didn't do) in the ARC Program?
> 
> Also with respect to the "Max Eq Frequency" setting listed in the Target Customisation screen where do i find this setting in the Anthem Menu setting?
> 
> Thank you once again. Your assistance is greatly appreciated as i try to grapple with the strengths and complexities of this wonderful Processor.
> 
> regards
> 
> Jeff


  


You have to setup the two subs as described in the Anthem D2v manual. See the pages referring to Bass management.

If you are using ARC y*ou should have selected 1 (one)* as the number of subwoofers even though you have 2 subwoofers.

You should also have set the sub woofer sound levels, balanced them to each other, and set their phasing prior to setting up and running ARC.

The setting for Max Frequency is in the ARC targets just below the center of the chart.

You never stated what you were going to use for your sound source but if it has speaker and/or bass management, that should also be set up in

a precise way before you use the the D2v with ARC.

And finally, you need to go into Source setup and set Room EQ to ON for all the sources that will be using ARC


Have fun.


Seriously The Anthem D2v is a great processor, there just are a large number of steps to accomplish to make it work and sound super.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22650918
> 
> 
> Not having a lot of experience in these matters what is it about the graphs i have posted indicates to you that they look good?
> 
> Thank You



When you look at the graphs compare the original graph line (RED) to what ARC wants to be able to set (BLUE)and then the line representing what it is able to set (GREEN).

Your final chart lines are smooth from beginning to end with out any peaks or dips, Your subwoofer is able to go extremely low and gently rolls off at its highest point.


Your subwoofers are extremely capable and you should follow NInja12's recommendation on a tweak you can easily perform


"One little tweak that I can suggest for your sub. If you haven't done it, you should set your set to "Flat". You can do this by bringing up your Targets' View, click the Advanced Button, Change the sub setting from "Auto" to "Flat", click Ok, click OK, click Calculate, Save your ARC file, click Upload, Save user/installer settings in your D2v. You DON'T have to remeasure when you make this change. What the "Flat" setting does is not roll off any of the Low Frequencies (LF). Instead it sends all the LF to your sub. This will allow you to feel a little more oomph in the LF."


Also I would like to suggest you move the subs outside the L/F and R/F speakers alomg the outer walls and maybe into the corners if possible.

You can use Quick Measure to test the new locations as you move them.. It should sound even better


Again, Have fun and enjoy the great sound. Your adventure is just starting


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22650381
> 
> 
> So are you essentially saying that the Anthem deliberately begins to roll off anything above 5kHz?



NO it does not! ARC only stops applying correction and therefore does nothing to the frequencies above the 5kHz (or whatever you have the limit set to).


What you are seeing is the rolloff that is normally occurring with your speakers, cables, room, etc. (as seen by the mic). We see it all the time here, with some more than others. I would say your rolloff is a little more than average but not shocking.


By the way ARC seems to be doing a phenomenal job of smoothing out your ripples below 5k. If you decide to raise the upper limit to apply more correction up high there keep an eye on that to make sure you're not losing something down low.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22651236
> 
> 
> NO it does not! ARC only stops applying correction and therefore does nothing to the frequencies above the 5kHz (or whatever you have the limit set to).
> 
> What you are seeing is the rolloff that is normally occurring with your speakers, cables, room, etc. (as seen by the mic). We see it all the time here, with some more than others. I would say your rolloff is a little more than average but not shocking.
> 
> By the way ARC seems to be doing a phenomenal job of smoothing out your ripples below 5k. If you decide to raise the upper limit to apply more correction up high there keep an eye on that to make sure you're not losing something down low.



Understand that you cannot take speakers and place them anywhere in a room and expect them to perform perfectly or even up to their design limitations.

You have to experiment. Move the speakers. Set the levels correctly. Set the phasing.

Add equalization or other modifications such as ARC. Add room and wall dampening devices etc

Now you know where to start.

Raise the Equalization maximum and watch the charts for results. Or post the charts here and someone

will respond with their thoughts and ideas.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22650381
> 
> 
> I might jst try this because i think a roll out at 5kHz is seriously limiting. But i guess the proof will be in the listening. Would be good to hear from other D2v users who may have played around with this high Max Freq EQ and what their experiences have been to date.
> 
> Also does it matter what i name the ARC file? Or does the file always have to be title - Anthem Room Correction?
> 
> Once i upload the file is there anything else i need to do in the menu system of the anthem? Or do these settings just take effect whenever i am listening to movies or music? These settings once uploaded now become the "Default" settings. Nothing else needs to be configured within the Anthem itself?
> 
> Thank You



The default 5kHz cutoff is more than adequate. Your room has less influence over the sound the higher you go in frequency. The bass region is where your room plays the biggest part and is where most of the help is needed. I've experimented raising the correction past 5kHz and lowering it below 5kHz. Raising it caused my system to become increasingly harsh as the high frequencies began to be over emphasized. Lowering it didn't really make any difference in sound. Some things that could be causing your drop off are speaker pointing (toe-in, tilt), microphone positioning or maybe a defective microphone. As you mention, listen to it for yourself and see if it sounds right to you.


I append a date to my filenames so I can see if I've made any progress after making changes to my system or room. My filenames look like this: Anthem Room Correction12-02-2012.ARC.


After you run ARC, you need to go into settings to turn it on for each source that you want to use it with.


----------



## jrisles




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22650938
> 
> 
> 
> You have to setup the two subs as described in the Anthem D2v manual. See the pages referring to Bass management.
> 
> If you are using ARC y*ou should have selected 1 (one)* as the number of subwoofers even though you have 2 subwoofers.
> 
> You should also have set the sub woofer sound levels, balanced them to each other, and set their phasing prior to setting up and running ARC.
> 
> The setting for Max Frequency is in the ARC targets just below the center of the chart.
> 
> You never stated what you were going to use for your sound source but if it has speaker and/or bass management, that should also be set up in
> 
> a precise way before you use the the D2v with ARC.
> 
> And finally, you need to go into Source setup and set Room EQ to ON for all the sources that will be using ARC
> 
> Have fun.
> 
> Seriously The Anthem D2v is a great processor, there just are a large number of steps to accomplish to make it work and sound super.



When i ran the ARC i think i chose two subs instead of one as you have suggested. I will also have to have a re-read of the manual about Bass management. As i haven't set the phasing or anything on my subs. They are all set to neutral at this point. Although they do come with quite an extensive array of features like phase shift and eq etc. Sounds like i need to set the Sub woofer bass setting BEFORE running ARC. In any event i am going to have to run ARC again because of the sub woofer selection issue.


I am using an Oppo BDP-95 as my source


What i meant by being able to see the Max Frequency is not on the ARC program but rather where do i see this setting in the Anthem Menu? For example i can see the X-over frequencies and their respective settings from ARC when i go into the Anthem menu and look at each speaker but i could see anywhere anything mentioned about the Max Frequency setting?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22650972
> 
> 
> When you look at the graphs compare the original graph line (RED) to what ARC wants to be able to set (BLUE)and then the line representing what it is able to set (GREEN).
> 
> Your final chart lines are smooth from beginning to end with out any peaks or dips, Your subwoofer is able to go extremely low and gently rolls off at its highest point.
> 
> Your subwoofers are extremely capable and you should follow NInja12's recommendation on a tweak you can easily perform
> 
> "One little tweak that I can suggest for your sub. If you haven't done it, you should set your set to "Flat". You can do this by bringing up your Targets' View, click the Advanced Button, Change the sub setting from "Auto" to "Flat", click Ok, click OK, click Calculate, Save your ARC file, click Upload, Save user/installer settings in your D2v. You DON'T have to remeasure when you make this change. What the "Flat" setting does is not roll off any of the Low Frequencies (LF). Instead it sends all the LF to your sub. This will allow you to feel a little more oomph in the LF."
> 
> Also I would like to suggest you move the subs outside the L/F and R/F speakers alomg the outer walls and maybe into the corners if possible.
> 
> You can use Quick Measure to test the new locations as you move them.. It should sound even better
> 
> Again, Have fun and enjoy the great sound. Your adventure is just starting



Thank you and i will try moving the subs to the outside of my mains. Although i wonder if i have got such a great result in the position they are already in would it be worth moving them?


I have tweaked my settings based on Ninja12's comments.


LOL .. after i uploaded the ARC file i watched another movie thinking that the ARC was already on by default. Now i read i have to go in and tell the source to use these settings.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22651236
> 
> 
> NO it does not! ARC only stops applying correction and therefore does nothing to the frequencies above the 5kHz (or whatever you have the limit set to).
> 
> What you are seeing is the rolloff that is normally occurring with your speakers, cables, room, etc. (as seen by the mic). We see it all the time here, with some more than others. I would say your rolloff is a little more than average but not shocking.
> 
> By the way ARC seems to be doing a phenomenal job of smoothing out your ripples below 5k. If you decide to raise the upper limit to apply more correction up high there keep an eye on that to make sure you're not losing something down low.



So if i do raise the Max frequency above 5kHz you are suggesting i run ARC again? Won't these settings be "by-passed" when i run ARC again? I am a bit confused here. Does the Anthem retain the uploaded ARC settings when i run ARC again? So i can run ARC and test the first ARC calibration file i uploaded? This should essentially yield the same result as "Calculated" from the graphs right when i do this?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22651348
> 
> 
> Understand that you cannot take speakers and place them anywhere in a room and expect them to perform perfectly or even up to their design limitations.
> 
> You have to experiment. Move the speakers. Set the levels correctly. Set the phasing.
> 
> Add equalization or other modifications such as ARC. Add room and wall dampening devices etc
> 
> Now you know where to start.
> 
> Raise the Equalization maximum and watch the charts for results. Or post the charts here and someone
> 
> will respond with their thoughts and ideas.



Please see my comments above about running ARC on an uploaded ARC? But yes i will absolutely post my results on here. The feedback i received from you guys is great. - Thank You


Also please see my comments below about the 5kHz roll off.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22651626
> 
> 
> The default 5kHz cutoff is more than adequate. Your room has less influence over the sound the higher you go in frequency. The bass region is where your room plays the biggest part and is where most of the help is needed. I've experimented raising the correction past 5kHz and lowering it below 5kHz. Raising it caused my system to become increasingly harsh as the high frequencies began to be over emphasized. Lowering it didn't really make any difference in sound. Some things that could be causing your drop off are speaker pointing (toe-in, tilt), microphone positioning or maybe a defective microphone. As you mention, listen to it for yourself and see if it sounds right to you.
> 
> I append a date to my filenames so I can see if I've made any progress after making changes to my system or room. My filenames look like this: Anthem Room Correction12-02-2012.ARC.
> 
> After you run ARC, you need to go into settings to turn it on for each source that you want to use it with.



Thank you re the filename - this is something i did do in terms of naming the file that reflected it's "profile" somewhat. Not too dissimilar to what you have suggested btw.


As for this 5kHz roll off i suspect it must be the room. Because my main speakers at least have a frequency range of 26Hz to 50kHz - so it does surprise me to see this roll off at such a low frequency level (relatively speaking of course - given the freq. range is 26Hz to 50kHz). The room is not treated at all so i suspect once i start treating it i should see a bit of an improvement? Not with standing the limitation of the mic of course. Perhaps it is just an artefact of the mic and what you see really has nothing to do with anything else other than the contraints of the mic not being able to accurately monitor much beyond 5kHz?


----------



## obie_fl

I have a fully treated room and I see the same roll off probably more then most graphs I see posted here. I don't think it is the room so much as a limitation of the mic and its positioning.


----------



## jrisles




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22651817
> 
> 
> I have a fully treated room and I see the same roll off probably more then most graphs I see posted here. I don't think it is the room so much as a limitation of the mic and its positioning.



Yes beginning to think that the mic was more "the culprit" than anything else. So what we are seeing is a constraint of the mic itself. And as you say just about everyone is going to see a roll off around 5kHz because of this limitation. So do you set your Max Frequency above 5kHz?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22651697
> 
> 
> When i ran the ARC i think i chose two subs instead of one as you have suggested. I will also have to have a re-read of the manual about Bass management. As i haven't set the phasing or anything on my subs. They are all set to neutral at this point. Although they do come with quite an extensive array of features like phase shift and eq etc. Sounds like i need to set the Sub woofer bass setting BEFORE running ARC. In any event i am going to have to run ARC again because of the sub woofer selection issue.



Good that you have caught trhis error. reset the number of subwoofers to one.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22651697
> 
> 
> I am using an Oppo BDP-95 as my source..



Then you need to follow these OPPO setup instructions when using a D2v with ARC


In your OPPO setup settings The speaker setup does not effect any analog output so anything you set will not effect the stereo or multi-channel analog outputs you are using.

In the OPPO speaker setup you should set ALL speakers to high and the distance to 12 and subwoofer to On or Yes as the speaker setup will be handled in the D2v ARC setup.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22651697
> 
> 
> What i meant by being able to see the Max Frequency is not on the ARC program but rather where do i see this setting in the Anthem Menu? For example i can see the X-over frequencies and their respective settings from ARC when i go into the Anthem menu and look at each speaker but i could see anywhere anything mentioned about the Max Frequency setting?.



There is NO max frequency setting per se in the D2v or in ARC. That would be counter productive.

The reason you see cutoff in the graphs is that ARC has a maximum frequency that it applies correction to which is the cutoff frequency you see in the target setup. The graph results in ARC are only the application of ARC NOT the frequency response of your system. If you want to see the full frequency response of your system you will need a full range microphone, some additional hardware for plugging in and amplifying the microphone, not the ARC microphone and a program such as REW. What you see


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22651697
> 
> 
> Thank you and i will try moving the subs to the outside of my mains. Although i wonder if i have got such a great result in the position they are already in would it be worth moving them?
> 
> I have tweaked my settings based on Ninja12's comments.
> 
> LOL .. after i uploaded the ARC file i watched another movie thinking that the ARC was already on by default. Now i read i have to go in and tell the source to use these settings.



Good that you are aware of this too !


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22651697
> 
> 
> So if i do raise the Max frequency above 5kHz you are suggesting i run ARC again? Won't these settings be "by-passed" when i run ARC again? I am a bit confused here. Does the Anthem retain the uploaded ARC settings when i run ARC again? So i can run ARC and test the first ARC calibration file i uploaded? This should essentially yield the same result as "Calculated" from the graphs right when i do this?
> 
> Please see my comments above about running ARC on an uploaded ARC? But yes i will absolutely post my results on here. .



You do not need to rerun ARC again unless you actually change the physical configuration of your system or make some changes in the OPPO or other sources.

Name and save the ARC file like you have done in case you want to use it again, You can change the settings in ARC in the targets such as setting the subwoofers to flat or the hi freq cutoff and upload the new settings to the D2v. Listen to the new settings. You can look at the new graphs that ARC will have and if you do not lkie the new sound reload your old ARC file you saved.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22651697
> 
> 
> The feedback i received from you guys is great. - Thank You
> 
> 
> Also please see my comments below about the 5kHz roll off.
> 
> Thank you re the filename - this is something i did do in terms of naming the file that reflected it's "profile" somewhat. Not too dissimilar to what you have suggested btw.
> 
> As for this 5kHz roll off i suspect it must be the room. Because my main speakers at least have a frequency range of 26Hz to 50kHz - so it does surprise me to see this roll off at such a low frequency level (relatively speaking of course - given the freq. range is 26Hz to 50kHz). The room is not treated at all so i suspect once i start treating it i should see a bit of an improvement? Not with standing the limitation of the mic of course. Perhaps it is just an artefact of the mic and what you see really has nothing to do with anything else other than the contraints of the mic not being able to accurately monitor much beyond 5kHz?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22651875
> 
> 
> 
> Yes beginning to think that the mic was more "the culprit" than anything else. So what we are seeing is a constraint of the mic itself. And as you say just about everyone is going to see a roll off around 5kHz because of this limitation. So do you set your Max Frequency above 5kHz?



This is not a limitation but designed this way as expertly explained by forum member CharlieU


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39000#post_22648026
> 
> 
> This is slightly complicated as you are setting up two different systems. One is analog and the other digital. You are using two devices that would individually handle bass management and speaker setup so you do not want them conflicting.
> 
> OPPO
> 
> The speaker setup does not effect any analog output so anything you set will not effect the stereo or multi-channel analog outputs you are using.
> 
> In the OPPO speaker setup you should set ALL speakers to high and the distance to 12 and subwoofer to On or Yes as the speaker setup will be handled in the D2v ARC setup.
> 
> I think this how I would suggest you connect the two CD/SACD/DVD-Audio sound sources to get maximum utilization
> 
> Sony 5400 ES
> 
> Balanced stereo output to D2v Balanced stereo input
> 
> HDMI to any HDMI input on the D2v
> 
> OPPO 95
> 
> Single ended stereo output to CD Left and Right Stereo analog input
> 
> Hdmi to any D2v HDMI input
> 
> 7.1 Multi channel analog output to the D2v 7.1 analog input
> 
> D2v
> 
> In Setup for Sources
> 
> 2 channel select Audio In as Analog Direct and Analog Audio 2Ch Bal........................This will play your Sony 5400ES as analog stereo when selected on the D2v
> 
> 6-Ch SACD Setup select Audio In as Analog DSP and Analog Audio as 6ch S/E............This will play your OPPO multichannel SACDs and use your subwoofer when selected
> 
> CD select Audio In as Analog Direct and Analog audio as CD....................................This will play your OPPO as analog stereo when sele\cted on the D2v
> 
> DVD set up 1 for the OPPO HDMI input and 1 for the Sony HDMI input.......................This will allow you to use ARC for SACD/DVD/BluRay on the OPPO or the SONY
> 
> You will, still have 2 additional DVD sources you can use.....
> 
> Set up ARC as per BOB P's instructions. ARC will set the crossovers in the setup and the cutoffs in ARC and you should not be readjusting them



'thestewman" One thing is in complete contradiction to what I understand, and what Oppo has told me and what the Oppo manual says; you are saying that "The speaker setup does not effect any analog output......", and in my understanding it affects the Analog outs, not HDMI's. Please confirm, anyone else here.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22652962
> 
> 
> 'thestewman" One thing is in complete contradiction to what I understand, and what Oppo has told me and what the Oppo manual says; you are saying that "The speaker setup does not effect any analog output......", and in my understanding it affects the Analog outs, not HDMI's. Please confirm, anyone else here.



I typed and stated, "The speaker setup does not effect any analog output so anything you set will not effect the stereo or multi-channel analog outputs you are using"

.

You are correct. My mistake while typing and thinking ahead. Glad you caught my error.


I should have said the OPPO speaker setup will affect only the OPPO multichannel analog output.

Sorry


Stew


----------



## Steve Dodds

Is there any updated software for the AVM40 (beyond 1.33)? HDMI issues are getting annoying.


Thanks.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22654373
> 
> 
> Is there any updated software for the AVM40 (beyond 1.33)? HDMI issues are getting annoying.
> 
> Thanks.


There is a beta v1.47f for the D2 and AVM50. Email Anhem to see if it will help.

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22651875
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22651817
> 
> 
> I have a fully treated room and I see the same roll off probably more then most graphs I see posted here. I don't think it is the room so much as a limitation of the mic and its positioning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes beginning to think that the mic was more "the culprit" than anything else. So what we are seeing is a constraint of the mic itself. And as you say just about everyone is going to see a roll off around 5kHz because of this limitation. So do you set your Max Frequency above 5kHz?
Click to expand...


Lots of things affect the ability to measure the high frequencies accurately, which is one reason Anthem sets the default upper limit for applying correction to 5KHz. First and foremost, the treble frequencies are far more directional than the bass frequencies. Most speakers will have a distinctly non-uniform output of treble, with the problem typically being more pronounced in the vertical direction than in the horizontal direction.


This means that when the mic is off the center axis of a given speaker, there is less treble heard simply because the speaker is not putting out as much treble in that direction. So the thing to do first is to check the pointing of your speakers. And in particular, if the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, check their VERTICAL pointing. The Center and Surrounds should point at ARC mic position #1 (your center-most seating location). The Left Front and Right Front should NOT point at ARC mic position #1. The usual Rule of Thumb is to "toe those in" only about 1/3 of that angle. That is, if you consider how much you would have to rotate LF/RF to point at #1 (starting from pointing straight to the back of the room), only swing them 1/3 of that amount. The Subwoofer pointing is irrelevant for treble of course.


Next, make sure your tweeters are actually functioning. It is not uncommon to blow a tweeter in a speaker and simply not notice because the mid-range drivers also produce output up there (just not as much). By the way, this has happened often enough in this thread that we even have a name for it in here. We call it "Richard Syndrome", after the first poster to have this epiphany: The discovery -- via ARC -- that one or more of your speakers is actually BROKEN even though you have been happily enjoying it up to now!


To check this, play stereo content (e.g., a CD) with good treble components (bells and cymbals for example), set MONO ALL Audio Surround Mode in the Anthem -- which sends the same audio to every speaker -- and go put your ear right up close to the tweeter in each speaker in turn and make sure it is producing output. All the speakers should sound similar. If one or more speakers is not producing tweeter output, then fix that first before you do anything else with ARC. It could be wiring (separate input jacks -- or improperly wired bi-amp setup) or a fuse rather than a blown tweeter.


Next, consider the method of speaker installation. We've heard time and again here from folks who have in-wall or otherwise customized speaker installations who have discovered, for example, that the speaker grill cloth or grill mounting hardware was actually blocking output from the tweeters of one or more of their speakers. A grill bar across the center axis of the tweeter -- even several inches in front of it -- is enough to screw things up royally because the treble output of the tweeter is so directional.


Next, double check the way you are using the mic during your ARC Measurement passes. For proper Measurement of treble it is important that you follow several rules:


1) The mic must be pointed STRAIGHT UP at each mic position.

2) The tip of the mic should be set at seated ear height. If you recline your seats, then that's what you should do when judging seated ear height.

3) The tip of the mic must not be adjacent to blocking or reflective surfaces. Consider each mic position. Keep the mic at least 18 inches from walls/drapes. If you have high seat backs, raise the mic a few inches to clear the top of the seat, or move that mic location a foot closer to the screen to get it away from the seat back.



Keep in mind that you can use the Quick Measure tool (found in ARC's TOOLS Menu) to check, in real time, the raw (uncorrected) audio the mic is hearing at any given position from any given speaker. So you can see the affect any changes might be having.


The red Measured curves ARC displays in its charts are an "unweighted average" of what the mic is hearing from that speaker across all the mic positions. Each mic position will have a different direction angle to each speaker, so treble response will vary. The regular ARC chart averages that out. So what Quick Measure shows for any given mic position is unlikely to match that regular ARC chart curve in every detail. But if you move the mic around you can mentally average the Quick Measure result yourself to get a feel for what would happen with the real Measured curve. (ARC actually calculates its results using all the mic data -- not just the average shown in the charts -- but the averaged curve has proven to be an excellent surrogate for what's really going on.)


Do remember that Quick Measure reconfigures the Anthem so that it can hear uncorrected speaker output. That means that when you are done with Quick Measure, you need to open and re-Upload your current ARC solution, or do a whole new ARC setup pass if you've changed anything (e.g., moved speakers around).



A much less likely problem, but still worth checking, is that you are using the wrong mic calibration data file. These files are unique to each ARC mic. Your ARC mic has a serial number. Go to Windows > Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction (which is where the ARC application gets installed), and you will find in there two files with names made up of a pair of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC mic. These are your ARC license and your ARC mic calibration data files. Check that the numbers match your mic. If not, then Anthem Tech Support can email the correct files to you.


While you are at it, check that you have the current version of the ARC application. Open ARC in the charts view and check About ARC in the Help menu. The version should be V3.0.2.



There are other things that affect the quality of treble measurement which are likely out of your control. These include things like room humidity. But when you have more treble roll-off showing in ARC than you think makes sense, take the steps above first to eliminate those causes that you CAN control.


Each room setup will be different, and each set of speakers will have more or less pronounced treble directionality. If it looks to you like ARC is picking up quality treble data for the speaker Measurements, then you can experiment with raising Targets > Max EQ Frequency to allow ARC to apply correction further up. If not, then leave Max EQ Frequency at 5KHz and trust that the high frequency roll-off you are seeing in the charts is "not real". But don't assume that until you have checked the basics as above.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22654373
> 
> 
> Is there any updated software for the AVM40 (beyond 1.33)? HDMI issues are getting annoying.
> 
> Thanks.


Good luck with that. Anthem STOPPED supporting the units below their D2.v a couple of years ago. They never did resolve all the issues with the original D2. Anthem doesn't even have an archive for our older units.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22656525
> 
> 
> Good luck with that. Anthem STOPPED supporting the units below their D2.v a couple of years ago. They never did resolve all the issues with the original D2. Anthem doesn't even have an archive for our older units.



a. This was posted over a year and a half ago and I still haven't seen a v1.33 problem description during the last few years with any substance it in (post 33029):

http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/33000#post_20249396 


b. Archive links are on this easy to find page, it's all there:

http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software 


c. When reporting a problem, put a little meat in it like steps to reproduce the issue and send it to tech support otherwise nothing useful will happen (post 38649 is a guideline):

http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22485582 


Now let's please talk about something real that hasn't been talked about before. Thank you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22656525
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22654373
> 
> 
> Is there any updated software for the AVM40 (beyond 1.33)? HDMI issues are getting annoying.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck with that. Anthem STOPPED supporting the units below their D2.v a couple of years ago. They never did resolve all the issues with the original D2. Anthem doesn't even have an archive for our older units.
Click to expand...


The Archive for your older units:

http://archive.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/Downloads/DiscontinuedProduct.html 

http://archive.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/Downloads/DiscontinuedStatementProduct.html 


Steve, Anthem prepared a "test" version beyond V1.33 to assist with problems from certain specific, older attached devices with flaky HDMI implementations, but V1.33 is the better of the two versions for everyone else. Let Anthem Tech Support know what model of HDMI display and HDMI Source devices you are using just in case, but the odds are high they will tell you V1.33 is the place to be.


HDMI problems most commonly have to do with cabling. Seriously, even if you are using the SAME cabling, the contacts may have gotten dirty or corroded. If you have any adapters, wall plates, daisy chained cables, HDMI switches, additional video processors, etc. -- ANYTHING -- in the HDMI path, those alone could be the source of your problems. Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so every HDMI cable from Source to Display should be suspect.


Try operating at 1080i as a test. If 1080i works, but 1080p does not, that's usually pretty good evidence the problem is in the cabling.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22656731
> 
> 
> a. This was posted over a year and a half ago and I still haven't seen a v1.33 problem description during the last few years with any substance it in (post 33029):
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/33000#post_20249396
> 
> b. Archive links are on this easy to find page, it's all there:
> http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software
> 
> c. When reporting a problem, put a little meat in it like steps to reproduce the issue and send it to tech support otherwise nothing useful will happen (post 38649 is a guideline):
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22485582
> 
> Now let's please talk about something real that hasn't been talked about before. Thank you.


Nick, Thank you for your reply,

A. I still get pink screen and total snow, on power up, but not all the time.I did talk to tech support last week and was asked to put in Studio RGB (1a DATA ) with not any better results. The D2 still locks up changing sources. I brought my unit into Anthem last year or so, and Anthem changed some part inside and installed 1..47. I went back to 133

B. I could not find this folder doing a search on D2, I will keep this link.

I know Anthem does their best at resolving any and all issues,


THX


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22656822
> 
> 
> I did talk to tech support last week and was asked to put in Studio RGB (1a DATA ) with not any better results. The D2 still locks up changing sources.



Might be an issue between the D2 and your TV (handshake through system still applies even though D2 does the source switching). The TV brand that you mentioned to tech support last year used to come up very often in regard to HDMI issues all its own, so check for TV software updates if this hasn't been done. I don't have any up to date info on the combination and this is the first I'm hearing of it in a long time - best to keep working with tech support. Could be anything including the source side.


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22657780
> 
> 
> Might be an issue between the D2 and your TV (handshake through system still applies even though D2 does the source switching). The TV brand that you mentioned to tech support last year used to come up very often in regard to HDMI issues all its own, so check for TV software updates if this hasn't been done. I don't have any up to date info on the combination and this is the first I'm hearing of it in a long time - best to keep working with tech support. Could be anything including the source side.


The sources are the same, almost. Now OPPO 105, PS3, SA-8300 HD-DVR., Denon 3930ci. All cables Ultra Link platinum. Most likely bad hand shake with monitor. Problem solved, buy a new monitor.

Cheers


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Let's focus on identifying and fixing the right problem.

*Is your TV running latest software?* Considering how many D2 and AVM 50 v1.33s are in use, connected to a variety of monitor brands including yours, one of the best known names, I see no reason that it can't work regardless of what went on a few years ago when said TVs didn't work with the same company's Blu-ray players (and their support reps knew it).

*If it is* then temporarily disconnect the 8300 then the 3930 while ensuring that the 105 and PS3 are also running their latest. Note exactly when lockups occur, if they still do, and let tech support know what steps are needed to reproduce them.


----------



## mkaye

D2v w/o 3D starting to have issues

I loaded 3.09f and everything was OK for a few days

I had crunching sounds out of front speakers when I was navigating the gui on my rogers box & nmt

then no audio, nothing brought it back

reverted to 3.09c - everything back to normal for a couple of days (still had crunching when navigation gui), then no audio

powered D2v off/on multiple times along with sources - no luck

installed 3.09f again

back to normal again, but for how long

nothing has changed in my setup


mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22659749
> 
> 
> D2v w/o 3D starting to have issues
> 
> I loaded 3.09f and everything was OK for a few days
> 
> I had crunching sounds out of front speakers when I was navigating the gui on my rogers box & nmt
> 
> then no audio, nothing brought it back
> 
> reverted to 3.09c - everything back to normal for a couple of days (still had crunching when navigation gui), then no audio
> 
> powered D2v off/on multiple times along with sources - no luck
> 
> installed 3.09f again
> 
> back to normal again, but for how long
> 
> nothing has changed in my setup
> 
> 
> mark



There are lots of possibilities including amp problems, or a pretty severe ground loop. E.g., if the amp is shutting down to protect itself (perhaps due to an intermittent short in speaker wires), it might stay shut down long enough that you'd still have no audio during the time you were trying things with the D2v. But by the time you did the firmware install the amp could have come back out of protection.


Typically a D2v hardware problem severe enough to kill audio won't cure itself just because you do a firmware install. So I'm thinking it is more likely a timing thing. If it happens again, try powering everything off overnight and see if it is live again in the morning (i.e., without re-installing firmware).


Anyway, give Anthem Tech Support a call and let them walk you through trying to diagnose this. It may be necessary to uncable just about everything to minimize the possibility of ground loops.


While waiting to connect with them, start with the basics, which means rechecking all your cabling -- particularly speaker cabling -- to make sure everything is attached properly and that there's no chance of shorts. If you are using Trigger connections, make sure they are plugged in properly as well. Check all cables -- both ends.

--Bob


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22660389
> 
> 
> There are lots of possibilities including amp problems, or a pretty severe ground loop. E.g., if the amp is shutting down to protect itself (perhaps due to an intermittent short in speaker wires), it might stay shut down long enough that you'd still have no audio during the time you were trying things with the D2v. But by the time you did the firmware install the amp could have come back out of protection.
> 
> Typically a D2v hardware problem severe enough to kill audio won't cure itself just because you do a firmware install. So I'm thinking it is more likely a timing thing. If it happens again, try powering everything off overnight and see if it is live again in the morning (i.e., without re-installing firmware).
> 
> Anyway, give Anthem Tech Support a call and let them walk you through trying to diagnose this. It may be necessary to uncable just about everything to minimize the possibility of ground loops.
> 
> While waiting to connect with them, start with the basics, which means rechecking all your cabling -- particularly speaker cabling -- to make sure everything is attached properly and that there's no chance of shorts. If you are using Trigger connections, make sure they are plugged in properly as well. Check all cables -- both ends.
> 
> --Bob



pretty sure it's not a ground loop - had one a couple of years ago, added an isolator to the cable input (& then found I had hot & neutral reversed)

amp is on and green light, so no overload/shorts


the odd thing is the soft crunch I get in the front speakers when navigating the gui on 2 different hdmi devices - haven't tried the Oppo 80 yet to see if it does it too

I haven't seen anyone else mention this, so it seems significant to me


haven't changed a thing hardware wise (except the unplgging/plugging of the hdmi cables when upgrading)


mark


----------



## oyvindmo

Hi,


This is a copy of a support request I just sent to Anthem, reposted here for extra coverage







I skimmed the last 20-30 pages here and it looks like others have had the same issues, but I couldn't find a clear final solution, so here goes.


"""

I have an early-model D2v (serial 141xxx) which I just upgraded to firmware 3.09, and I have two reproducible issues.


1) If I switch source from where I have an Xbox360 connected, to a source which has no signal, and then back to the Xbox360, the picture gets a hot pink/purple hue.

If I then switch to a source with a signal and back to the Xbox360, the picture looks fine again.


2) When I have the Xbox360 source selected, then enter the D2v's Setup menu, then exit back out of the setup menu, I get a nasty sharp noise played repeatedly. This noise continues until I switch to another source (with or without signal), at which point the noise stops.


Both of these issues are 100% reproducible with my current setup, and I have not seen them with the old firmware.


Setup details:


D2v serial 141xxx, dated Aug 28, 2008

Xbox 360 running the latest update

Display: Panasonic PT-AE7000

All connections are by HDMI

Xbox360 is at HDMI input 3

Projector is at HDMI output 1

Color space: Have tested with both YPbPr 4:2:2 and Studio RGB set up in D2v and the projector

Color depth: 8 bit


Is there any other info you need from me to help resolve these issues?

"""


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oyvindmo*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22662021
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> This is a copy of a support request I just sent to Anthem, reposted here for extra coverage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I skimmed the last 20-30 pages here and it looks like others have had the same issues, but I couldn't find a clear final solution, so here goes.
> 
> """
> 
> I have an early-model D2v (serial 141xxx) which I just upgraded to firmware 3.09, and I have two reproducible issues.
> 
> 1) If I switch source from where I have an Xbox360 connected, to a source which has no signal, and then back to the Xbox360, the picture gets a hot pink/purple hue.
> 
> If I then switch to a source with a signal and back to the Xbox360, the picture looks fine again.
> 
> 2) When I have the Xbox360 source selected, then enter the D2v's Setup menu, then exit back out of the setup menu, I get a nasty sharp noise played repeatedly. This noise continues until I switch to another source (with or without signal), at which point the noise stops.
> 
> Both of these issues are 100% reproducible with my current setup, and I have not seen them with the old firmware.
> 
> Setup details:
> 
> D2v serial 141xxx, dated Aug 28, 2008
> 
> Xbox 360 running the latest update
> 
> Display: Panasonic PT-AE7000
> 
> All connections are by HDMI
> 
> Xbox360 is at HDMI input 3
> 
> Projector is at HDMI output 1
> 
> Color space: Have tested with both YPbPr 4:2:2 and Studio RGB set up in D2v and the projector
> 
> Color depth: 8 bit
> 
> Is there any other info you need from me to help resolve these issues?
> 
> """



Good luck and keep us posted as I have just upgraded my last HDMI cable and have the older D2V also but still get the hot pink screen everytime I go into the set up menu of the D2v while on a specific input and still get a hot pink screen everytime I switch between my two satellite inputs. Could be the display but this is my second projector that does it and I am going to test a plasma display this weekend. Maybe a discount for the new HDMI board with 3D is in order to see if that eliminates the problems.


----------



## oyvindmo

I got a quick response from Anthem, suggesting I try 3.09c. I will do that tomorrow and let you (and them) know how it turns out.


----------



## Aron

Can everyone help look over the charts below. Any suggestions or problem areas that I should be concern about? Thanks

 Thanks


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Aron*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22663499
> 
> 
> Can everyone help look over the charts below. Any suggestions or problem areas that I should be concern about? Thanks
> Thanks



I fund the charts are almost impossible to read when they are posted this way. They are to small and any attempt to make them larger blurs the text etc.

Also there should be 3 lines on every graph. By default they are Red, Blue, Green


----------



## oyvindmo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22662090
> 
> 
> Good luck and keep us posted



I gave 3.09c a go, with no real luck:


1) The pink screen issue is the same.


2) The noise is gone, but now there is no sound at all, neither for the Xbox360 nor for the TV tuner (which are the two sources I'm using when testing now). The status says "No signal" for the HDMI sound for both sources.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Aron*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22663499
> 
> 
> Can everyone help look over the charts below. Any suggestions or problem areas that I should be concern about? Thanks
> Thanks


They look good to me. How does it sound?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22663853
> 
> 
> I fund the charts are almost impossible to read when they are posted this way. They are to small and any attempt to make them larger blurs the text etc.
> 
> Also there should be 3 lines on every graph. By default they are Red, Blue, Green



Try this: Right Click on the image and Open Link in New Window. The image in the new window will be full size instead of the compressed image the forum shows in the post.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Aron*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22663499
> 
> 
> Can everyone help look over the charts below. Any suggestions or problem areas that I should be concern about? . . . .
> 
> 
> Thanks



These look fine and should sound excellent as is. What's left is just tweaking. It looks like you've got good quality treble data Measured for all speakers up almost all the way. And since your speakers don't need a ton of correction in the lower frequencies, your setup could be a good candidate for raising Max EQ Frequency. I'd try raising it to 15KHz to get that extra octave and a half of correction in the higher frequencies. Do this in the Targets window (for both the Movie and Music columns), accept that change, re-Calculate, and re-Upload. No need to re-Measure.


Also the basic volume level of the solution is a bit low -- around 68dB. Before your next ARC Measurement run (no rush to do this), try raising Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level by about 5dB. Ideally you want the flat part of the Targets curves (black dashed lines) in the mid frequencies to be at about 75dB. Again, this is minor. You could leave it as is.


Your LF/RF speakers look to have excellent bass response. ARC has set a 60Hz Cutoff/Crossover for them, which means it is depending on quality output from them down to 30Hz. You could try experimenting by lowering that to 50Hz or even 40Hz to use more of the bass energy they can produce. Check to be sure the quality of the Calculated result still looks good across the entire frequency range -- i.e., the residual error between the black dashed Target curve and the green Calculated curve is small -- certainly no more than +/- 2dB. You may find that a compromise setting of the Cutoff for LF/RF and the raised value of Max EQ Frequency is necessary to get clean results across the frequency range. But since you don't have any PROBLEM that needs fixing in this current result, I'd lean towards leaving the Cutoff for LF/RF right where it is now.

--Bob


----------



## Aron

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I used to have the 2 subwoofers right next to the LF/RF speakers. Recently moved one of the SUB to the back of the room (25x18), now they are in diagonal corners. So it's the first time running ARC again for about 2 years.


Equipment List


Martin Logan Spire

ML Theater i,

ML Script i

2x JL F113


----------



## xMEATx

I have dual subs in my system, which are located by my main speakers. Each time I measure with ARC, I get a null around 35-45Hz, when I measure them together. Yesterday, I tried measuring them one at a time, with strange results. When I measure one of them alone, I get a nice measured curve, that show no indication of the null at all. When I measure the other one, the curve shows back up. So I guess they are cancelling each other out at those frequencies. I tried switching the phase 180 on the one that produced the null, but then the curve measured much higher in volume it looked like to me. I was using quick measure, which to me is more difficult to read that the standard graphs. ARC does smooth the graph pretty well, but I would like to find a way to negate the null. Any suggestions?


----------



## MKaiserman

Hi I have an electronics question regarding my D2v2. I think I may have damaged one of the 12 V DC triggers. Is anyone familiar with the circuitry ? Is it easy to repair. My D2v2 is out of warranty. Any suggestions ? Thanks


----------



## MKaiserman

Subwoofers are a strange beast.

It is very easy for a sub to set up a standing wave. If the wave is reflected it will cause peaks and troughs. I had the exact problem with my subs (JLAudio 113s).

You indicated that when you changed the phase 180 degrees, you got a peak.


Unfortunately, there is no easy answer.

I found that if I placed the subs on pedestals (8" high) and then repositioned the subs, I could minimize the reflections. Also trying using acoustic bass panels (like Cathedral panels) to help control reflections.

In addition, I set my subs as master and slave, so ARC thinks it is only one sub. (Remember that low bass is non directional; the human ear is not able to detect where the sound originates.)

ARC was able to correct the sub curve.


For fun, try this site to see the impact of reflected waves http://www.hunecke.de/en/calculators/loudspeakers.html


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrisles*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22651697
> 
> 
> So if i do raise the Max frequency above 5kHz you are suggesting i run ARC again? Won't these settings be "by-passed" when i run ARC again? I am a bit confused here. Does the Anthem retain the uploaded ARC settings when i run ARC again? So i can run ARC and test the first ARC calibration file i uploaded? This should essentially yield the same result as "Calculated" from the graphs right when i do this?



There have been a lot of long posts recently so I will just summarize by saying Targets customization is done in the ARC software *on your PC* AFTER room/system measurement and BEFORE uploading. So you can fiddle with the targets, click recalculate and look at the effects on the charts before uploading. You can repeat this as much as you want without having to re-measure the room/system, so long as the room/system doesn't change in any way. Once uploaded the solution is in the processor's memory and can't be fiddled with, that is why you don't see the target cutoffs in the AVM/D GUI. If you change the solution on your PC you must re-upload to hear it.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22659749
> 
> 
> D2v w/o 3D starting to have issues
> 
> I loaded 3.09f and everything was OK for a few days
> 
> I had crunching sounds out of front speakers when I was navigating the gui on my rogers box & nmt
> 
> then no audio, nothing brought it back
> 
> reverted to 3.09c - everything back to normal for a couple of days (still had crunching when navigation gui), then no audio
> 
> powered D2v off/on multiple times along with sources - no luck
> 
> installed 3.09f again
> 
> back to normal again, but for how long
> 
> nothing has changed in my setup
> 
> mark



Sorry to hear that.


Just for the record, I have not gone past v3.09c and not having any issues. I don't see any real need to go to 3.09f. Very happy


----------



## oyvindmo

Are the older firmwares available for download anywhere? If things don't work out with my issues with 3.09 I will want to roll back to 2.10 which I used earlier.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22664311
> 
> 
> Try this: Right Click on the image and Open Link in New Window. The image in the new window will be full size instead of the compressed image the forum shows in the post.
> 
> --Bob



Thank You

That works great..


----------



## Murrayb

I'm planning on getting a new OPPO 103. I've read a lot of positive reviews of its video upconverting capabilities. Right now, everything runs through my D2V with the D2V sending the video to the tv. Has anyone compared the picture produced by the 103 to the one by the D2v? Although the picture produced by the D2v is stellar, I'm wondering if the OPPO will be better?


----------



## AVfile

^ best scenario would be to use both. Oppo supports DVD 24p upconversion which Anthem does not, so enable that and always feed 1080p24 to the Anthem. If you are not into video calibration you can have the Anthem VXP pass the signal directly to your TV unchanged simply by not messing with any video processor settings. If you are going to calibrate the display you can take advantage of the custom gamma curves in the Anthem VXP (using Anthem's LiveVideoSettingsEditor software for the PC). Search my posts for LVSE if interested in what it can do.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oyvindmo*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39060#post_22665919
> 
> 
> Are the older firmwares available for download anywhere? If things don't work out with my issues with 3.09 I will want to roll back to 2.10 which I used earlier.



I don't think so. I have saved some of the previous firmware installers for the 50v but not the D2v. If someone wants to set up an FTP server I can upload them.


----------



## Tom Rousch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39060#post_22665226
> 
> 
> There have been a lot of long posts recently so I will just summarize by saying Targets customization is done in the ARC software *on your PC* AFTER room/system measurement and BEFORE uploading. So you can fiddle with the targets, click recalculate and look at the effects on the charts before uploading. You can repeat this as much as you want without having to re-measure the room/system, so long as the room/system doesn't change in any way. Once uploaded the solution is in the processor's memory and can't be fiddled with, that is why you don't see the target cutoffs in the AVM/D GUI. If you change the solution on your PC you must re-upload to hear it.



Question about ARC after it has been uploaded with ARC Result.


Can someone please list the changes that can be made after the result has been uploaded, that will not hurt the uploaded result? ie. volume on subs, phase, ect?


Or even in D2 menus??Thanks


----------



## Tom Rousch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39060#post_22670962
> 
> 
> ^ best scenario would be to use both. Oppo supports DVD 24p upconversion which Anthem does not, so enable that and always feed 1080p24 to the Anthem. If you are not into video calibration you can have the Anthem VXP pass the signal directly to your TV unchanged simply by not messing with any video processor settings. If you are going to calibrate the display you can take advantage of the custom gamma curves in the Anthem VXP (using Anthem's LiveVideoSettingsEditor software
> 
> 
> for the PC). Search my posts for LVSE if interested in what it can do.



On a D2 not D2v, how would you set-up the OPPO? Would you still use 1080p 24, I dont belive you can bypass the video in D2?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Rousch*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39060#post_22673428
> 
> 
> Question about ARC after it has been uploaded with ARC Result.
> 
> Can someone please list the changes that can be made after the result has been uploaded, that will not hurt the uploaded result? ie. volume on subs, phase, ect?
> 
> Or even in D2 menus??Thanks



I don't think you can touch any of that without hurting the ARC result. Sometimes we apply volume trims using the Anthem remote to work around decoding errors (i.e. with the older firmware the center channel was too loud with DTS-HD) or temporarily adjust certain speakers to taste on certain material but we generally leave it alone. I certainly would not adjust the subwoofer controls directly or physically move any speakers.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Rousch*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39060#post_22673576
> 
> 
> On a D2 not D2v, how would you set-up the OPPO? Would you still use 1080p 24, I dont belive you can bypass the video in D2?



For video I believe it would be the same setup as D2v. I wasn't suggesting using the bypass mode of D2v3D, although you could, because the Anthem VXP really doesn't add any artifacts (except for the handy OSD).


----------



## Tom Rousch

So I would set the OPPO to 1080p 24 for all sources or just for bluray?? Then do I need a seperate input and video configuration? Thanks for the help. This is a great forumn!


----------



## AVfile

There is an option for DVD 24p in the Oppo which I always leave on because I watch mostly film-based material. If you encounter problematic video material you may have to turn it off, I'm not sure if the Oppo will automatically fall back to 60 Hz (I am using a very old model). The Anthem will not, so when switching to a 60 Hz source, yes you need a separate video config.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39060#post_22673890
> 
> 
> There is an option for DVD 24p in the Oppo which I always leave on because I watch mostly film-based material. If you encounter problematic video material you may have to turn it off, I'm not sure if the Oppo will automatically fall back to 60 Hz (I am using a very old model). The Anthem will not, so when switching to a 60 Hz source, yes you need a separate video config.



This is what I have understood from Oppo and Anthem:


Keep 108024p ON in Oppo, and only bluray have 24p frame rate.


I have one configuration is Anthem with 1080p24 and I use that when watching Bluray.


I have another configuration in Anthem for everything other than bluray, and that is at 1080p60.


While 1080p24 ON in Oppo, it does not matter (or function) if you are just watching a DVD, but use the configuration with p60 in D2v.


Another safer approach could be to keep 1080p24 on AUTO instead of ON in Oppo, but that takes little more HDMI handshaking.


I am sure there are lot of other people on this forum with lot more knowledge on this than what I just said and they can explain further. I would like to confirm my approach as well.


----------



## icequeen

Hi, Why does the measured ARC red line only go to 5K, I thought I had seen results that showed measured up to 20K in previous posts


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39060#post_22674382
> 
> 
> Hi, Why does the measured ARC red line only go to 5K, I thought I had seen results that showed measured up to 20K in previous posts


The default, for the Max High Frequency, is 5 kHz. If you want to see what it looks like up to 20 kHz, then you will have to click on Target, change Max Frequency from 5000 to how high you want it to go, click OK, and then click on Calculate. Anthem recommends not going above 5 kHz because the mic is not accurate in the higher frequencies and the sound becomes directional. However, you are always free to experiment to see how it works out for your setup. You never know; you just might like the higher frequency setting.


----------



## icequeen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39060#post_22674743
> 
> 
> The default, for the Max High Frequency, is 5 kHz. If you want to see what it looks like up to 20 kHz, then you will have to click on Target, change Max Frequency from 5000 to how high you want it to go, click OK, and then click on Calculate. Anthem recommends not going above 5 kHz because the mic is not accurate in the higher frequencies and the sound becomes directional. However, you are always free to experiment to see how it works out for your setup. You never know; you just might like the higher frequency setting.



Ninja,


Thank you, but I want to see the tweeters and make sure they are functioning correctly, due to reading prior posts. I do not want to apply above 5K without some serious consideration. Really just want to make sure tweets are OK!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39060#post_22674776
> 
> 
> Thank you, but I want to see the tweeters and make sure they are functioning correctly, due to reading prior posts. I do not want to apply above 5K without some serious consideration. Really just want to make sure tweets are OK!



Screen capture and post your charts so we can see what you are seeing. The red Measured curve should show up through 20KHz regardless of your Targets settings. What is likely happening is that the green Calculated curve is on top of it (since by default no correction is applied above 5KHz), and obscuring it.


To check that, go into Targets window, change anything then change it back to what it was, then accept that "change" (which will dismiss the Targets window). That will erase the green Calculated curves (since you need to do a new Calculate pass after any Targets changes) and so you should now see the red Measured curve without the green Calculated curve confusing you up there. To get the green Calculated curves back, click on the Calculate button in the strip top left.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39060#post_22674776
> 
> 
> Ninja,
> 
> Thank you, but I want to see the tweeters and make sure they are functioning correctly, due to reading prior posts. I do not want to apply above 5K without some serious consideration. Really just want to make sure tweets are OK!



Best way or one way to do that is to download and use a free program called REW.so you can chart the full frequency response of your system

You will need some extra equipment such as a microphone with good high frequency response and a microphone amp.

Check the REW forum for an equipment list or I can supply a list of what I am using.


----------



## icequeen

   


Hi Bob,


I did as you suggested and it worked like a charm!


Here are the charts, to make sure my tweets are in good shape!


Also I will rerun arc with some new subwofer locations, once I get


feedback on tweeters!


L


----------



## icequeen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39060#post_22675260
> 
> 
> Best way or one way to do that is to download and use a free program called REW.so you can chart the full frequency response of your system
> 
> You will need some extra equipment such as a microphone with good high frequency response and a microphone amp.
> 
> Check the REW forum for an equipment list or I can supply a list of what I am using.



Thanks Stewman,


I would like to see what you guys think of my measured arc response before looking at other systems, but it sounds like a great alternative!


I'm a bit overwhelmmed with the things I have going on now! LOL I been at this for a few months.


----------



## icequeen

Well here are the new ARC charts with these changes.


I moved the Front Left and Right more forwrad and into the room by about 6-7 inches,


and I moved the subs into the left front corner and right rear corner. Like to get some feeback


against my last (BEST) postion which was the midpoint of front wall and midpoint of Left Wall length.


Thanks!


First Post is New, Next post is the Last position!


----------



## icequeen

    


These are the last position of the subs and fronts. Subs were at the md points of front and left wall length.


----------



## Steve Dodds

My On Screen Display has suddenly stopped working.


I have an AVM40 so I don't have the fancy display anyway, but the setup display no longer works. I'm using the HDMI out.


The prepro transmits actual content just fine, just not it's own internal signal.


I've tried a factory reset and unplugging for 30 minutes with no joy. I tried to reinstall the firmware, but the AVM40 has decided it doesn't want a bar of that any more as well.


Anything obvious I may have missed?


----------



## icequeen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39060#post_22673674
> 
> 
> I don't think you can touch any of that without hurting the ARC result. Sometimes we apply volume trims using the Anthem remote to work around decoding errors (i.e. with the older firmware the center channel was too loud with DTS-HD) or temporarily adjust certain speakers to taste on certain material but we generally leave it alone. I certainly would not adjust the subwoofer controls directly or physically move any speakers.



AVfile,


You said that the "older firmware the center channel was too loud with DTS-HD". I installd the the latest version of the ARC softeare and have a D2 not D2v. I play piano and had a drummer over last night who was interested in hearing his Rush Snakes and Arrows on the big screen. We both agreed that the center channel sounded way to loud, (BTW it is a DTS MA) and I trimmed it approx 2-2.5 db to just get it in the ballpark.


I would also add that so far the guitars and treble sounds very loud and the bass drum and drums sound too low. The charts for this run are the first set above with the subs in corners. Although, I didn't notice the bass too low on some Diana Krall SACD I played earlier.


Can you tell me what you know about this known prob, and can it be fixed in the D2??or otherwise how do you get the system in trim for many different types of material? ie. DTS-MA, Doldy True, SACD, DVD-A ect?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39060#post_22677946
> 
> 
> AVfile,
> 
> You said that the "older firmware the center channel was too loud with DTS-HD". I installd the the latest version of the ARC softeare and have a D2 not D2v. I play piano and had a drummer over last night who was interested in hearing his Rush Snakes and Arrows on the big screen. We both agreed that the center channel sounded way to loud, (BTW it is a DTS MA) and I trimmed it approx 2-2.5 db to just get it in the ballpark.
> 
> Can you tell me what you know about this known prob, and can it be fixed in the D2??or otherwise how do you get the system in trim for many different types of material? ie. DTS-MA, Doldy True, SACD, DVD-A ect?



The D2 does not decode DTS -HD so it is not a problem. To hear the DTS-HD track the player must decode to LPCM and send that to the D2. There was never a problem with the LPCM stream. The problem has been fixed in the latest firmware for the D2v


----------



## icequeen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39060#post_22677969
> 
> 
> The D2 does not decode DTS -HD so it is not a problem. To hear the DTS-HD track the player must decode to LPCM and send that to the D2. There was never a problem with the LPCM stream. The problem has been fixed in the latest firmware for the D2v



So it is just a problem for the D2v since D2 uses LPCM, I believe is how I read your post never was a LPCM problem?


----------



## AVfile

That's right, but it is also an assumption around here that the players don't have any DTS HD decoding errors in themselves. 


What you heard on the Rush disc is probably in the mix though. I seem to recall it is a very in your face sound.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22678656
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39060#post_22677969
> 
> 
> The D2 does not decode DTS -HD so it is not a problem. To hear the DTS-HD track the player must decode to LPCM and send that to the D2. There was never a problem with the LPCM stream. The problem has been fixed in the latest firmware for the D2v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it is just a problem for the D2v since D2 uses LPCM, I believe is how I read your post never was a LPCM problem?
Click to expand...


There was never an LPCM problem, and the Bitstream problem for the D2v has already been fixed in firmware.


If you are having speaker volume problems with your ARC setup, the first thing to do is make sure you haven't changed the Setup menu settings that ARC Uploaded. This can happen, for example, if you reloaded Saved User or Installer Settings after the ARC Upload, but without ever having saved the post-ARC stuff into them in the first place. The easiest way to fix that is to cable up your ARC computer, open your ARC results file, and re-Upload the solution. No need to re-Measure. Save User and Installer Settings afterwards to avoid this problem happening again.


Next make sure that your ARC solution is actually in use in the first place. Go into Setup > Source Setup for EACH Source and make sure that Room EQ is ON. In addition, if you have any Analog (stereo or 6-channel) Sources, make sure they are set to ANALOG-DSP. ARC can not function if the Source is set to ANALOG-DIRECT.


Next, make sure you don't have any "temporary" speaker volume adjustments screwing things up. These are the adjustments you make with the buttons on the remote. It is easy to forget you have these set. To reset ALL of the "temporary" settings in one go, get into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue using the Front Panel display.

3) Reload Saved User Settings


Since the "temporary" settings are not saved, this resets them all.


Finally check your speaker levels with a calibration disc. I recommend you use the 5.1 LPCM test track from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray. Use an SPL meter (held pointed straight up at ARC Mic position #1) to check that your speakers and Sub are producing matching levels.


If after all the above the LPCM test is correct, then any problem in DTS-HD MA levels must either be in the mix on the disc or in the decoding in your Blu-ray player.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350

And infact the problem was not the center channel being too loud, it was the left and right channel being too quiet........they were down by 3dB.


Cheers


----------



## icequeen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22678708
> 
> 
> That's right, but it is also an assumption around here that the players don't have any DTS HD decoding errors in themselves.
> 
> What you heard on the Rush disc is probably in the mix though. I seem to recall it is a very in your face sound.



Yes it is! Quite close and upfront in your face sound!


----------



## icequeen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22678820
> 
> 
> There was never an LPCM problem, and the Bitstream problem for the D2v has already been fixed in firmware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally check your speaker levels with a calibration disc. I recommend you use the 5.1 LPCM test track from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray. Use an SPL meter (held pointed straight up at ARC Mic position #1) to check that your speakers and Sub are producing matching levels.
> 
> If after all the above the LPCM test is correct, then any problem in DTS-HD MA levels must either be in the mix on the disc or in the decoding in your Blu-ray player.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, I will have to find that disc and do the tests! Sounds like a stocking stuffer to me! LOL BTW , like to get your thoughts on how those speakers measured for my tweeters and highs.I followed the steps in the target menu and posted them last night.


----------



## dmusoke


Icequeen ...also try this for your subs to flateen out their low frequency response. Click on the Advanced Tab and select the "FLAT" setting for the subs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22679459
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob, I will have to find that disc and do the tests! Sounds like a stocking stuffer to me! LOL BTW , like to get your thoughts on how those speakers measured for my tweeters and highs.I followed the steps in the target menu and posted them last night.



There are no nasty problems in your high frequencies. The additional roll off for the 4 Surround speakers up there could be due to speaker pointing -- check vertical pointing for example -- but it is not excessive.


It looks to me like you've got quality high frequency data at least up to 15Khz, so yours could be a good candidate for raising Max EQ Frequency to 12 or 15KHz to get correction applied a little higher up.


The only thing I think you may want to do is try to raise the basic volume level of the solution, which is right now around 60dB. Before doing your next ARC Measurement pass, raise the Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level line about 6dB higher than where you have it now.

--Bob


----------



## lesterjd

I'm after some advice regarding the Darbee Darblet version 3, which I have been given recently with my projector purchase (JVCX75). On using the Darbee with my Anthem D2v software version 3.09, every time I use a video source (either Dune, Oppo 95) it tends to flash pink 3-4 times before it settles down to enable me to watch the content. I have removed the Darbee from the Anthem and plugged it between just the Oppo 95 and the TV and this seems to work OK with no flashing pink screens - any ideas on how I might rectify this problem with the Anthem? I have tried different HDMI cables but with no success. I know this has been mentioned previously on this thread and people don't seem to have any issues with the Darbee, your help would be very much appreciated.


Lesterjd


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lesterjd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22680896
> 
> 
> I'm after some advice regarding the Darbee Darblet version 3, which I have been given recently with my projector purchase (JVCX75). On using the Darbee with my Anthem D2v software version 3.09, every time I use a video source (either Dune, Oppo 95) it tends to flash pink 3-4 times before it settles down to enable me to watch the content. I have removed the Darbee from the Anthem and plugged it between just the Oppo 95 and the TV and this seems to work OK with no flashing pink screens - any ideas on how I might rectify this problem with the Anthem? I have tried different HDMI cables but with no success. I know this has been mentioned previously on this thread and people don't seem to have any issues with the Darbee, your help would be very much appreciated.
> 
> Lesterjd


Mine is on the output of the D2V to the Panny Projector - that way all sources go though the Darb.    No problems or a single flash!      I have the 3' HDMI out of the D2v - Darb - 35' HDMI to projector.    I do keep my D2v set to 1080P/60 or 24


----------



## lesterjd

Thanks for replying, I had it placed between the D2v and PJ but I still get the flashing, it's really annoying the D2v is also set to 1080p.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Try setting a specific output format (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of Auto.


Also try replacing the HDMI cables involved. Keep in mind that too short an HDMI cable can cause problems just like too long a cable.

--Bob


----------



## lesterjd

Hi Bob, I'm sure the settings are YCbCr 4:4:4 in all cases, I have also ordered a new HDMI cable so we'll see what that does in a few days time.


----------



## icequeen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22680434
> 
> 
> Icequeen ...also try this for your subs to flateen out their low frequency response. Click on the Advanced Tab and select the "FLAT" setting for the subs.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/103768/



Great DUSMOKe! I will try the flatteening idea! Can I then just reload, after making adjustemnt in targets?


Love to know what you think about the 2 different arc scenarios i posted two days ago. ONe has subs on mid point of walls ie. front and left.


The other is is front left corner and right rear. I also moved the left and right front closer by about 8 inches and forward by 6-8 inches.


Can't wait to just be able to relax and Enjoy! Thank You


----------



## rsinclair

I have a question related to Subwoofer output on the d2v.


I've got a Velodyne DD-15 hooked up to the d2v's Sub 1 Out (Balanced).


I've just purchased a Buttkicker LFE system, and I'm attempting to hook it up. According to the manufacturer, the best way to hook it up is directly to the Sub Out on the AV processor.


I'd like to hook up the Buttkicker to the Sub 2 Out (Line Level) but I cannot seem to get it to work. The Buttkicker hookup isn't really that complex, it's essentially just like adding another powered subwoofer, but I cannot get it to engage.


As I'm troubleshooting, I wanted to rule out any configuration issues with the d2v.


Specifically:


* Does having a sub hooked up to the Balanced jack of Sub 1 somehow preclude or defeat the Line Level output of Sub 2? Can you not mix a Balanced Sub and a Line Level Sub on the two Sub Outs?

* Are there any settings in the d2v Menu that I need to change to tell the system that I have 2 subs hooked up? The only related setting I found is under"3, Speaker Config", Bass Management (for both Movie and Music) have a "Subs: 2 Subs" setting, which I have enabled. This hasn't seemed to make any difference.


Anything I'm overlooking?


Thanks,

R


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsinclair*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22687171
> 
> 
> I have a question related to Subwoofer output on the d2v.
> 
> I've got a Velodyne DD-15 hooked up to the d2v's Sub 1 Out (Balanced).
> 
> I've just purchased a Buttkicker LFE system, and I'm attempting to hook it up. According to the manufacturer, the best way to hook it up is directly to the Sub Out on the AV processor.
> 
> I'd like to hook up the Buttkicker to the Sub 2 Out (Line Level) but I cannot seem to get it to work. The Buttkicker hookup isn't really that complex, it's essentially just like adding another powered subwoofer, but I cannot get it to engage.
> 
> As I'm troubleshooting, I wanted to rule out any configuration issues with the d2v.
> 
> Specifically:
> 
> * Does having a sub hooked up to the Balanced jack of Sub 1 somehow preclude or defeat the Line Level output of Sub 2? Can you not mix a Balanced Sub and a Line Level Sub on the two Sub Outs?
> 
> * Are there any settings in the d2v Menu that I need to change to tell the system that I have 2 subs hooked up? The only related setting I found is under"3, Speaker Config", Bass Management (for both Movie and Music) have a "Subs: 2 Subs" setting, which I have enabled. This hasn't seemed to make any difference.
> 
> Anything I'm overlooking?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> R



The balanced and single ended analog outputs are both usable at the same time.

If using ARC you should be selecting 1 as your sub selection even with 2 subs.

The Sub 2 balanced or single ended output is connected in parallel with Sub 1.

Try testing the single ended connection for output by switching from the balanced cable input into your Velodyne Sub.

You could also test by connecting the Buttkicker via the thruput LFE connection on the Velodyne to ensure the Buttkicker is working.

Also make sure the source you are using is not set to analog direct as no sub will be utilized


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icequeen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22682336
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22680434
> 
> 
> Icequeen ...also try this for your subs to flateen out their low frequency response. Click on the Advanced Tab and select the "FLAT" setting for the subs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great DUSMOKe! I will try the flatteening idea! Can I then just reload, after making adjustemnt in targets?
> 
> 
> Love to know what you think about the 2 different arc scenarios i posted two days ago. ONe has subs on mid point of walls ie. front and left.
> 
> 
> The other is is front left corner and right rear. I also moved the left and right front closer by about 8 inches and forward by 6-8 inches.
> 
> 
> Can't wait to just be able to relax and Enjoy! Thank You
Click to expand...

 

*1*. Simply re-load the the new ARC solution after changing to the flat setting

 

*2*. Post #39087 gives the best subwoofer frequency response, i.e its wide and deep with no obvious nulls due to room modes(Subs are at the middle points of front and left wall length). I hope the sub arrangement is aesthetically pleasing and has high WAF value.

 

*3*. Since you have two subs, i hope they play as one unit in unison. A way to ensure this is to make sure their lauched wavefronts are in phase with each other.

 

*a*).  First set the volume knobs of each sub to each output about 73dB from the listening position. When both subs play, the combined output should be about  75 - 77dB. Exact levels aren't important right now as ARC will compensate them later on.

 

*b*). Then set phase knob of both subs to zero degrees. Open ARC's Live Measure program and pick the subwoofer to generate the repetitive swept test tones.

 

*c*).  While watching the plots, adjust the phase knob of sub A from zero while observing the resultant FR plot. Leave Sub B at zero degrees. Now adjust Sub   A phase until you get the flattest and widest FR response from the real-time plots. Don't be suprised if this only happens when both Sub A & B phases are set to 0.

 

Once you believe you've had the best response, you might want to 'swap' subs and this time, leave Sub A at zero while adjusting phase knob of Sub B and see which configuration has the better response.

 

You have now phase-matched the subs with respect to one another and time to perform a new ARC measurement and call it a day ... for now!

 

*PS*

Actually, there's a final tweak you need to do where you phase-match the dual-sub-combo with the mains but this can be done later on after you've completed the above. Its where you'll get 90% of the benefit of dual subs in your system.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22687557
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsinclair*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22687171
> 
> 
> I have a question related to Subwoofer output on the d2v.
> 
> I've got a Velodyne DD-15 hooked up to the d2v's Sub 1 Out (Balanced).
> 
> I've just purchased a Buttkicker LFE system, and I'm attempting to hook it up. According to the manufacturer, the best way to hook it up is directly to the Sub Out on the AV processor.
> 
> I'd like to hook up the Buttkicker to the Sub 2 Out (Line Level) but I cannot seem to get it to work. The Buttkicker hookup isn't really that complex, it's essentially just like adding another powered subwoofer, but I cannot get it to engage.
> 
> As I'm troubleshooting, I wanted to rule out any configuration issues with the d2v.
> 
> Specifically:
> 
> * Does having a sub hooked up to the Balanced jack of Sub 1 somehow preclude or defeat the Line Level output of Sub 2? Can you not mix a Balanced Sub and a Line Level Sub on the two Sub Outs?
> 
> * Are there any settings in the d2v Menu that I need to change to tell the system that I have 2 subs hooked up? The only related setting I found is under"3, Speaker Config", Bass Management (for both Movie and Music) have a "Subs: 2 Subs" setting, which I have enabled. This hasn't seemed to make any difference.
> 
> Anything I'm overlooking?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The balanced and single ended analog outputs are both usable at the same time.
> 
> If using ARC you should be selecting 1 as your sub selection even with 2 subs.
> 
> The Sub 2 balanced or single ended output is connected in parallel with Sub 1.
> 
> Try testing the single ended connection for output by switching from the balanced cable input into your Velodyne Sub.
> 
> You could also test by connecting the Buttkicker via the thruput LFE connection on the Velodyne to ensure the Buttkicker is working.
> 
> Also make sure the source you are using is not set to analog direct as no sub will be utilized
Click to expand...


The FOUR sub outputs of the D2v (RCA jacks 1 and 2, and XLR jacks 1 and 2) all send out the same signal UNLESS you have configured Ctr2/Sub2 to instead be a separate L/R output for Zone 2 (so you could use Balanced cable for a long run to the Zone 2 amp).


See Section 3.9 in the Manual and set Balanced Out to CTR2/SUB2.


The RCA Sub outputs are 6dB quieter than the XLR outputs. You may not be playing enough bass volume to get the Buttkicker to come out of standby. See if it has a Trigger setting you could use.


As stated, set 1 Subwoofer when using ARC even if you have more than one. This is necessary so that Subwoofer volume trim that ARC Uploads will be applied correctly.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22688826
> 
> 
> The FOUR sub outputs of the D2v (RCA jacks 1 and 2, and XLR jacks 1 and 2) all send out the same signal UNLESS you have configured Ctr2/Sub2 to instead be a separate L/R output for Zone 2 (so you could use Balanced cable for a long run to the Zone 2 amp).
> 
> See Section 3.9 in the Manual and set Balanced Out to CTR2/SUB2.
> 
> The RCA Sub outputs are 6dB quieter than the XLR outputs. You may not be playing enough bass volume to get the Buttkicker to come out of standby. See if it has a Trigger setting you could use.
> 
> As stated, set 1 Subwoofer when using ARC even if you have more than one. This is necessary so that Subwoofer volume trim that ARC Uploads will be applied correctly.
> 
> --Bob




"The RCA Sub outputs are 6dB quieter than the XLR outputs. You may not be playing enough bass volume to get the Buttkicker to come out of standby. "


Reason I suggested using the pass thru connection on the Velodyne to go to the Buttkicker amp


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22688063
> 
> *1*. Simply re-load the the new ARC solution after changing to the flat setting
> 
> *2*. Post #39087 gives the best subwoofer frequency response, i.e its wide and deep with no obvious nulls due to room modes(Subs are at the middle points of front and left wall length). I hope the sub arrangement is aesthetically pleasing and has high WAF value.
> 
> *3*. Since you have two subs, i hope they play as one unit in unison. A way to ensure this is to make sure their lauched wavefronts are in phase with each other.
> 
> *a*).  First set the volume knobs of each sub to each output about 73dB from the listening position. When both subs play, the combined output should be about  75 - 77dB. Exact levels aren't important right now as ARC will compensate them later on.
> 
> *b*). Then set phase knob of both subs to zero degrees. Open ARC's Live Measure program and pick the subwoofer to generate the repetitive swept test tones.
> 
> *c*).  While watching the plots, adjust the phase knob of sub A from zero while observing the resultant FR plot. Leave Sub B at zero degrees. Now adjust Sub   A phase until you get the flattest and widest FR response from the real-time plots. Don't be suprised if this only happens when both Sub A & B phases are set to 0.
> 
> 
> Once you believe you've had the best response, you might want to 'swap' subs and this time, leave Sub A at zero while adjusting phase knob of Sub B and see which configuration has the better response.
> 
> 
> You have now phase-matched the subs with respect to one another and time to perform a new ARC measurement and call it a day ... for now!
> 
> *PS*
> 
> Actually, there's a final tweak you need to do where you phase-match the dual-sub-combo with the mains but this can be done later on after you've completed the above. Its where you'll get 90% of the benefit of dual subs in your system.



My opinion, but personally I prefer the other sub chart.

When comparing, the chart on the left which I like has a higher low end output below 50 hz..

The irregularities above 100 hz should not effect anything as it is above your sub cutoff.

There also is more output going much lower on the chart below 30 hz.


I would like to see that sub location setting with the advance setup set to flat as suggested by myself and dmusoke.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22688902
> My opinion, but personally I prefer the other sub chart.
> 
> When comparing, the chart on the left which I like has a higher low end output below 50 hz..
> 
> The irregularities above 100 hz should not effect anything as it is above your sub cutoff.
> 
> There also is more output going much lower on the chart below 30 hz.
> 
> 
> I would like to see that sub location setting with the advance setup set to flat as suggested by myself and dmusoke.


 

I completely understand where you are coming from regarding the low end response. The reason behind my other choice was the FR of the sub was most extended on the high end where it'd be easier to get the full 120Hz LFE bandwidth that is defined by Dolby. The graph on the left has the 100Hz point 10dB or more below the 50Hz point. It will be hard for ARC to give a 120Hz cutoff with that response.

 

OTOH, the plot on the right, once 'flattened' in the Advanced setup menu, will look real pretty indeed and i bet will have great response down to 20Hz and below.

 

- David

 

*PS*

I should have addressed you by name but i felt awkward calling you 'thestewman' in my post







!


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22688063
> 
> *1*. Simply re-load the the new ARC solution after changing to the flat setting
> 
> *2*. Post #39087 gives the best subwoofer frequency response, i.e its wide and deep with no obvious nulls due to room modes(Subs are at the middle points of front and left wall length). I hope the sub arrangement is aesthetically pleasing and has high WAF value.
> 
> *3*. Since you have two subs, i hope they play as one unit in unison. A way to ensure this is to make sure their lauched wavefronts are in phase with each other.
> 
> *a*).  First set the volume knobs of each sub to each output about 73dB from the listening position. When both subs play, the combined output should be about  75 - 77dB. Exact levels aren't important right now as ARC will compensate them later on.
> 
> *b*). Then set phase knob of both subs to zero degrees. Open ARC's Live Measure program and pick the subwoofer to generate the repetitive swept test tones.
> 
> *c*).  While watching the plots, adjust the phase knob of sub A from zero while observing the resultant FR plot. Leave Sub B at zero degrees. Now adjust Sub   A phase until you get the flattest and widest FR response from the real-time plots. Don't be suprised if this only happens when both Sub A & B phases are set to 0.
> 
> 
> Once you believe you've had the best response, you might want to 'swap' subs and this time, leave Sub A at zero while adjusting phase knob of Sub B and see which configuration has the better response.
> 
> 
> You have now phase-matched the subs with respect to one another and time to perform a new ARC measurement and call it a day ... for now!
> 
> *PS*
> 
> Actually, there's a final tweak you need to do where you phase-match the dual-sub-combo with the mains but this can be done later on after you've completed the above. Its where you'll get 90% of the benefit of dual subs in your system.



Can this be done to phase balance the sub with FL and FR speakers even if you have one sub. I am having difficulty phase balancing one sub by listening for highest bass from FM pink noise.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22689723
> 
> 
> I completely understand where you are coming from regarding the low end response. The reason behind my other choice was the FR of the sub was most extended on the high end where it'd be easier to get the full 120Hz LFE bandwidth that is defined by Dolby. The graph on the left has the 100Hz point 10dB or more below the 50Hz point. It will be hard for ARC to give a 120Hz cutoff with that response.
> 
> 
> OTOH, the plot on the right, once 'flattened' in the Advanced setup menu, will look real pretty indeed and i bet will have great response down to 20Hz and below.
> 
> 
> - David
> 
> *PS*
> 
> I should have addressed you by name but i felt awkward calling you 'thestewman' in my post !



Friends have been calling me Stewman for a long time. You are allowed. LOL

Or it's just Stew


I don't disagree at all with your statements after changing the default sub setting to Flat it may extend and flatten out the curve. He/she (Hmm ?) has the sub capability.

Did you notice in the chart I favored the sub cutoff was 80 hz not 120 hz ?


I favor working on positioning than relying on ARC alone.. My belief is that relying on ARC alone then leaves much to be desired playing anything but DVD or BluRay playback.


I listen a lot to audiophile HiRez and DSD downloads using the stereo analog direct format.

I do not want to pass the 192/24 PCM or DSD analog signal from an External DAC through another AD conversion stage in the D2v whichat that point I then am using as a stereo preamp.

Occasionally I will use Analog Digital to add my sub to a stereo signal. So ARC has no effect then either,


The sub results I get are from within the Anthem sub program perfect Bass and room positioning.


Stew


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22689834
> 
> 
> Can this be done to phase balance the sub with FL and FR speakers even if you have one sub. I am having difficulty phase balancing one sub by listening for highest bass from FM pink noise.



Suggest you follow dumsoke's instructions. He has it posted at the bottom of every page it posts.

He has carefully spelled out the easiest and a perfect way to set phasing


How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=19542630#post19542630


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22689944
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22689834
> 
> 
> Can this be done to phase balance the sub with FL and FR speakers even if you have one sub. I am having difficulty phase balancing one sub by listening for highest bass from FM pink noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Suggest you follow dumsoke's instructions. He has it posted at the bottom of every page it posts.
> 
> He has carefully spelled out the easiest and a perfect way to set phasing
> 
> 
> How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=19542630#post19542630
Click to expand...

Thanks Stew ...

 

Actually for Paradigm, since you only has one sub, my technique will work great but i don't think you've utilized the pink noise technique correctly. Instead of listening to the maximum bass, i would listen for the minimum bass instead. I would do the following:

 

 

*1*.  Reverse the polarity of the left speaker by swapping its leads.

 

*2*.  Start playing your pink noise source into the left speaker and sub. You will want to disconnect all other speakers temporarily for this test.

 

*3*.  Go into Speaker Config ->Bass Management-Movie (or Music) -> Sub Phase.

 

*4*.  With the RS SPL meter fixed at your listening position(and having set it to SLOW speed and C-weighting), note the SPL reading when the phase is 0.

 

*5*.  Then start changing the phase in 5 degree and not the SPL reading. Continue on till you reach 180 degrees and look for the phase degree number that gives you the absolute minimum SPL reading. Basically, you'll have 36 phase angles to cycle through with their respective SPL readings.

 

*6*.  Pick the phase angle that gave the minimum SPL reading and set that as the angle for the Anthem unit. Don't be suprised if you get a range of phase angles that give equivalent minimum SPL numbers. This is common but record them anyways.

 

*7*.  Its instructive set the Sub Polarity to 180 degrees and repeat steps 3 thru 6 again to find out what the optimum phase angle would be. Again, don't be suprised to have a range of phase angles that give minimum SPL readings.

 

Hopefully, the angles an steps 6 and 7 would overlap somewhat (which would be ideal). Then pick the phase number in the middle of the overlap and set the Sub Polarity back to Normal.

 

If there's no overlap whatsoever, oh well, just set the Sub Polarity to Normal and use the phase number you got in step 6.

 

*8*.  Reverse the speaker leads to their normal positions(Black Wire on Black Terminal, Red Wire on Red Terminal). Also remember to re-connect the rest of your speaker system







!

 

Don't forget this simple step as i forgot once to reverse the connections back to normal and couldn't understand why i was getting this 'phasey' sound from my system. It gave me headaches for a couple of hours as i thought i had done something wrong in my setup. So i went to check the integrity of the connections in my entire HT system ...only to find after a while that my speaker wires were reversed as indicated in step #1







!

 

Best of luck,

David







!

 

*PS*

Sorry for being so wordy, but since english *ain't* my first language, i often find myself maybe over-describing somethings. Bob Pariseau would simply state all the above in just 2 or 3 sentences tops! And this would include his deep tutorials about all thing audio







!


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22681603
> 
> 
> ^ Try setting a specific output format (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of Auto.
> 
> Also try replacing the HDMI cables involved. Keep in mind that too short an HDMI cable can cause problems just like too long a cable.
> 
> --Bob


- - - We just returned from the annual AVS home theater cruise where the *WIREWORLD* president presented his products, and the one thing i came away with was that the *shorter* the HDMI cable, the better. Demo's followed, and there was a clear advantage to the shorter(under one meter) vs: longer runs. (more _air_, was the comment)

Bob, can you comment on this?

I've been gone for two years, but I remember your comments suggesting the too short premise.

Walt


----------



## boyce89976

AVM 50v 3D arrived today, but unfortunately, I won't be able to set it up until Friday or Saturday, so it gives me some time to gleen some knowledge from this fine forum! My setup is as follows:


AVM 50v 3D

Emotiva XPA-5

Paradigm Studio 100 v5

Paradigm Studio 690 v5

Paradigm Studio 20 v5

Paradigm Sub 15

Pioneer Elite 151 60" Plasma

Emotiva X-series speaker cables

Monoprice 16ga balanced XLR Interconnects

Monoprice HDMI cables


Sources include:

Xbox 360

Panasonic BD Player (BDP30, I think)

Apple TV (for lossless music and HD movies, mainly)


I'm hoping to upgrade to a Statement A5 after the first of the year (would actually like opinions on this, vs. my current XPA-5). Is the A5 a worthwhile upgrade? Or, will I even be able to tell a difference without extensive room treatments (which I plan to do in the spring, unless, of course the ancient Mayans are right)?


As far as setup, I plan on running ARC as soon as I can, but may take this opportunity to rearrange the room a bit, and re-orient the display, so it could be a couple days. Mainly, I'm looking for general info on setup... the AVM 50 manual is a bit daunting with all the options for video and audio processing, bass management, and room correction. I want to do this right the first time, so please, any learnings, info, tips or tricks are much appreciated!


Thanks in advance!


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22691004
> 
> 
> - - - We just returned from the annual AVS home theater cruise where the *WIREWORLD* president presented his products, and the one thing i came away with was that the *shorter* the HDMI cable, the better. Demo's followed, and there was a clear advantage to the shorter(under one meter) vs: longer runs. (more _air_, was the comment)
> 
> Bob, can you comment on this?
> 
> I've been gone for two years, but I remember your comments suggesting the too short premise.
> 
> Walt



And the $3500.00 WireWorld power cords ?.


----------



## chileboy

Regarding Aron's posting of ARC charts, Bob said


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39030#post_22664333
> 
> 
> Also the basic volume level of the solution is a bit low -- around 68dB. Before your next ARC Measurement run (no rush to do this), try raising Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level by about 5dB. Ideally you want the flat part of the Targets curves (black dashed lines) in the mid frequencies to be at about 75dB. Again, this is minor. You could leave it as is.



My charts look much the same, as far as the volume level. Is it possible to accomplish the same in my AVM50 ARC? Is the equivalent option Setup -> Speaker Calibration -> Noise Level?


- Mark


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22691330
> 
> 
> AVM 50v 3D arrived today, but unfortunately, I won't be able to set it up until Friday or Saturday, so it gives me some time to gleen some knowledge from this fine forum! My setup is as follows:
> 
> AVM 50v 3D
> 
> Emotiva XPA-5
> 
> Paradigm Studio 100 v5
> 
> Paradigm Studio 690 v5
> 
> Paradigm Studio 20 v5
> 
> Paradigm Sub 15
> 
> Pioneer Elite 151 60" Plasma
> 
> Emotiva X-series speaker cables
> 
> Monoprice 16ga balanced XLR Interconnects
> 
> Monoprice HDMI cables
> 
> Sources include:
> 
> Xbox 360
> 
> Panasonic BD Player (BDP30, I think)
> 
> Apple TV (for lossless music and HD movies, mainly)
> 
> I'm hoping to upgrade to a Statement A5 after the first of the year (would actually like opinions on this, vs. my current XPA-5). Is the A5 a worthwhile upgrade? Or, will I even be able to tell a difference without extensive room treatments (which I plan to do in the spring, unless, of course the ancient Mayans are right)?
> 
> As far as setup, I plan on running ARC as soon as I can, but may take this opportunity to rearrange the room a bit, and re-orient the display, so it could be a couple days. Mainly, I'm looking for general info on setup... the AVM 50 manual is a bit daunting with all the options for video and audio processing, bass management, and room correction. I want to do this right the first time, so please, any learnings, info, tips or tricks are much appreciated!
> 
> Thanks in advance!



Read and follow the Anthem manual. Almost all the information you will need is printed there.

Anthem has tested and came up with what gives the correct and proper results.

If you have problems or questions then ask and lean on the AVS members here.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22690953
> 
> 
> Thanks Stew ...
> 
> 
> Actually for Paradigm, since you only has one sub, my technique will work great but i don't think you've utilized the pink noise technique correctly. Instead of listening to the maximum bass, i would listen for the minimum bass instead. I would do the following:
> 
> 
> *1*.  Reverse the polarity of the left speaker by swapping its leads.
> 
> *2*.  Start playing your pink noise source into the left speaker and sub. You will want to disconnect all other speakers temporarily for this test.
> 
> *3*.  Go into Speaker Config ->Bass Management-Movie (or Music) -> Sub Phase.
> 
> *4*.  With the RS SPL meter fixed at your listening position(and having set it to SLOW speed and C-weighting), note the SPL reading when the phase is 0.
> 
> *5*.  Then start changing the phase in 5 degree and not the SPL reading. Continue on till you reach 180 degrees and look for the phase degree number that gives you the absolute minimum SPL reading. Basically, you'll have 36 phase angles to cycle through with their respective SPL readings.
> 
> *6*.  Pick the phase angle that gave the minimum SPL reading and set that as the angle for the Anthem unit. Don't be suprised if you get a range of phase angles that give equivalent minimum SPL numbers. This is common but record them anyways.
> 
> *7*.  Its instructive set the Sub Polarity to 180 degrees and repeat steps 3 thru 6 again to find out what the optimum phase angle would be. Again, don't be suprised to have a range of phase angles that give minimum SPL readings.
> 
> 
> Hopefully, the angles an steps 6 and 7 would overlap somewhat (which would be ideal). Then pick the phase number in the middle of the overlap and set the Sub Polarity back to Normal.
> 
> 
> If there's no overlap whatsoever, oh well, just set the Sub Polarity to Normal and use the phase number you got in step 6.
> 
> *8*.  Reverse the speaker leads to their normal positions(Black Wire on Black Terminal, Red Wire on Red Terminal). Also remember to re-connect the rest of your speaker system !
> 
> 
> Don't forget this simple step as i forgot once to reverse the connections back to normal and couldn't understand why i was getting this 'phasey' sound from my system. It gave me headaches for a couple of hours as i thought i had done something wrong in my setup. So i went to check the integrity of the connections in my entire HT system ...only to find after a while that my speaker wires were reversed as indicated in step #1 !
> 
> 
> Best of luck,
> 
> David !
> 
> *PS*
> 
> Sorry for being so wordy, but since english _*ain't*_ my first language, i often find myself maybe over-describing somethings. Bob Pariseau would simply state all the above in just 2 or 3 sentences tops! And this would include his deep tutorials about all thing audio !



Thanks a lot. I will try this weekend.


----------



## xMEATx

Can the subwoofer distance setting be used to set phase also?


----------



## xMEATx

Can the subwoofer distance setting be used to set phase also?


----------



## Kensmith48

I have a D2v and set everything up with ARC. The problem is with the rear speakers. I have a 7.2 system and even when using a movie with a 7.1 soundtrack I can only hear the rear surrounds from about 4-5 ft. away. The room is 15x28 so from the front row the rears are useless. Any ideas or is this normal?


----------



## rovingtravler

ARC does not set the speakers to the correct 75db. You have to go through the menu and set the distances for time delay. Then use a Sound pressure level (SPL) meter to get each speaker to the correct level. Then run ARC and make sure to upload your results to your Anthem.


If you have done all of this then hopefully Bob or John or Ray etc can help.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22691897
> 
> 
> Can the subwoofer distance setting be used to set phase also?


 

Yes ... see the procedure described in my sig below.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22691004
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22681603
> 
> 
> ^ Try setting a specific output format (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of Auto.
> 
> Also try replacing the HDMI cables involved. Keep in mind that too short an HDMI cable can cause problems just like too long a cable.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> - - - We just returned from the annual AVS home theater cruise where the *WIREWORLD* president presented his products, and the one thing i came away with was that the *shorter* the HDMI cable, the better. Demo's followed, and there was a clear advantage to the shorter(under one meter) vs: longer runs. (more _air_, was the comment)
> 
> Bob, can you comment on this?
> 
> I've been gone for two years, but I remember your comments suggesting the too short premise.
> 
> Walt
Click to expand...


My comments had to do with the potential for handshake and bit error problems -- i.e., the potential of the cable to fail -- not audio quality.


But quite candidly I think it HIGHLY unlikely that short cables result in improved HDMI audio quality. I strongly suspect there was a bias factor in those demo results.


Look at it this way: The arriving digital audio stream is either correct or it is broken. There is only one possible level of "correct". Once you have achieved "correct" the audio CAN'T POSSIBLY get any better by, e.g., making the cable shorter, or any other technique.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22692044
> 
> 
> I have a D2v and set everything up with ARC. The problem is with the rear speakers. I have a 7.2 system and even when using a movie with a 7.1 soundtrack I can only hear the rear surrounds from about 4-5 ft. away. The room is 15x28 so from the front row the rears are useless. Any ideas or is this normal?



Get the AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, and check your ARC results using the 7.1 LPCM test track and an SPL meter held at ARC mic position #1 (i.e., center seating). You will likely find that ARC *HAS* set your levels correctly, which means you've simply discovered that many 7.1 movie tracks don't make very aggressive use of the Rear Surround speakers. Keep in mind that many 7.1 tracks are actually derived from movies that had 5.1 theatrical tracks.


If the test with AIX shows a problem in the output level from your Rears then check that you actually have ARC enabled for each Source (Room EQ = ON) and that you haven't accidentally modified the Setup settings that ARC Uploads. If you are not sure about that, the easiest way to solve it is to reopen your current ARC results file in ARC and re-Upload it to the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It is also wise to make sure you don't have some "temporary" speaker volume trims lurking in the Anthem that you've forgotten about -- the sort set using the buttons around the Arrow keys on the remote.


To clear all of those in one go, get into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video, continue using the Front Panel Display

3) Reload Saved User Settings


Since the "temporary" settings are not saved, this resets all of them.

--Bob


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22691799
> 
> 
> Read and follow the Anthem manual. Almost all the information you will need is printed there.
> 
> Anthem has tested and came up with what gives the correct and proper results.
> 
> If you have problems or questions then ask and lean on the AVS members here.



Thanks Stew. I have read, or tried to read, the manual several times, but frankly, it's not an easy read... not as bad as the translated Japanese from a Pioneer manual, but, not great either.










I have even downloaded it to my iPad so I can read it anytime I want to.


Guess I'll start with the "setup" button on the remote, and make a couple of the tweaks I've read about here like setting the sub to "flat" in the advanced menu... my sub 15 should be completely capable, and shows strong, flat, output down to 20hz according to PBK.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22692617
> 
> 
> Thanks Stew. I have read, or tried to read, the manual several times, but frankly, it's not an easy read... not as bad as the translated Japanese from a Pioneer manual, but, not great either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have even downloaded it to my iPad so I can read it anytime I want to.
> 
> Guess I'll start with the "setup" button on the remote, and make a couple of the tweaks I've read about here like setting the sub to "flat" in the advanced menu... my sub 15 should be completely capable, and shows strong, flat, output down to 20hz according to PBK.



My saying to read the manual was not meant as a way to get away from providing you information.

I apologize if it came across that way.


When it comes to doing the basic connections and basic setup the Anthem manual has all the answers.

You should be able, following the manual, to make the connections between your input sources and then entering the Anthem setup menu, make the necessary selections.

The forum members can help you if you have additional questions or you are looking for a particular way to accomplish a setup for any particular source.

I would personally save ARC for last after you have everything connected and sorted out so you do not have to rerun it again for some new change you may have made.

I would run PBK before ARC and it is recommended by Anthem to do it in that order.

Get ready to have never ending fun and welcome to our group of Anthem supporters


Stew


----------



## yacht422

yup! nuttin cheap 'bout dem der cords!


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22692158
> 
> 
> My comments had to do with the potential for handshake and bit error problems -- i.e., the potential of the cable to fail -- not audio quality.
> 
> But quite candidly I think it HIGHLY unlikely that short cables result in improved HDMI audio quality. I strongly suspect there was a bias factor in those demo results.
> 
> Look at it this way: The arriving digital audio stream is either correct or it is broken. There is only one possible level of "correct". Once you have achieved "correct" the audio CAN'T POSSIBLY get any better by, e.g., making the cable shorter, or any other technique.
> 
> --Bob


I recognize the logic of your comments.







W/O devoting mucho time to my reply, there was ample technical evidence given to support their claim, as well as actual audible testing in the room. Theirs was the only presentation I've attended re:wire, and WireWorld has a vested interest in making their product look and sound better then the competition. (duh!)







But, at the end of the day, there was a room full of H/T dudes that bought into the message.

Now, how to PAY for the stuff! ARGH!







There is nothing inexpensive about their product, which makes one meter connections look more attractive.

Walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It's always fun to hear a magician explain his magic trick. So do you remember any of the technical reasons why the 1s and 0s arriving at the far end of their expensive, short cables were better than the 1s and 0s entering the cable at the other end? Did they also claim the video was better? "Blacker blacks" being the most common such claim -- truly a hoot since there's nothing the D2v can send to the Display which will make the display produce less light output for a "black" pixel than it is physically capable of doing.


I'm being flip of course, but this really does sound like so much snake oil to me.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

It's nice of WireWorld to sponsor the event, but if you now feel obliged to support them I would spend the money on speaker cables and analog interconnects, if you need them - one of the main points to going digital was to avoid this crazyness. I wish cable manufacturers would have stuck to what they understand (even still I am giving them the benefit of the doubt) and not try to capitalize on the digital revolution. As soon as they make silly claims like this they lose credibility for all their products.


This is where I draw the line with cables... and to keep the thread on topic, I use $5 no-name HDMI cables with my AVM-50v and they work great


----------



## wingnut4772

Quick question: if I change ARC's settings for my fronts from 60 to 70, does the Anthem recalculate this effect relative to all speakers or am I simply just changing the fronts from 60-70?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22695822
> 
> 
> Quick question: if I change ARC's settings for my fronts from 60 to 70, does the Anthem recalculate this effect relative to all speakers or am I simply just changing the fronts from 60-70?


If you are going to make that change, then you should do it by bringing up your ARC File, make the change, Calculate, Upload to your D2v, and save user/installer settings.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22695822
> 
> 
> Quick question: if I change ARC's settings for my fronts from 60 to 70, does the Anthem recalculate this effect relative to all speakers or am I simply just changing the fronts from 60-70?




Why do you want to override the system settings made by ARC ?


Where are you making the changes ?


In the speaker configuration crossover settings or in the ARC target cutoffs ?


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22693242
> 
> 
> My saying to read the manual was not meant as a way to get away from providing you information.
> 
> I apologize if it came across that way.
> 
> When it comes to doing the basic connections and basic setup the Anthem manual has all the answers.
> 
> You should be able, following the manual, to make the connections between your input sources and then entering the Anthem setup menu, make the necessary selections.
> 
> The forum members can help you if you have additional questions or you are looking for a particular way to accomplish a setup for any particular source.
> 
> I would personally save ARC for last after you have everything connected and sorted out so you do not have to rerun it again for some new change you may have made.
> 
> I would run PBK before ARC and it is recommended by Anthem to do it in that order.
> 
> Get ready to have never ending fun and welcome to our group of Anthem supporters
> 
> Stew



No worries, Stew, I didn't take it that way, was just sharing my experience with the manual so far. I'm not too concerned about the basic setup stuff... but where the manual gets confusing is when it talks about having "layers" for different resolutions for the same device (ie. 1080p24 for BluRay and 1080p60 for DVD from the same player). It sounds difficult, but in reality is probably pretty easy once in the setup menus. I have a Harmony One universal remote, and I'm a little apprehensive about integrating it with the AVM50 and having to scroll through different source layers from the Harmony remote as I haven't even checked to see if it's compatible (I assumed it is).


The other part of the manual that confused me is the video scale section, where it talks about the different scaling options (panoramic, anamorphic, etc...). Is there a way to set up the AVM 50 to automatically fill the screen no matter the original picture size? I currently have my PIO Elite AVR set to passthrough and have my cable box set to 1080i/480i so my PIO Elite Plasma does the processing to 1080p and fills the screen for every digital source material the cable box throws at it.


I'm excited about how good my Paradigms are finally going to sound, but not sure how long it's going to take to get to that point.








The video processing is what has me befuddled as I'm not very well versed in all the lingo/technical terms. The audio piece I'm okay with... I can draw on my days in recording engineering school back in the 80's... not much has changed there... and, analog is making a comeback (I did all my work on a 24 track Studer analog machine). I'll be working on my sources next (particularly a music server, and one of the Oppo's with balanced analog outs - 105 or 95).


I will definitely run PBK before ARC and save ARC for last... that's good advice, thank you.


I'll be working on my setup Friday and will keep you posted.


PS. Had the opportunity to tour the Paradigm/Anthem factory in Toronto (I know, Mississauga, but I never spell that correctly) a couple months ago. Mark Aling was under the weather, so John S. spent a couple hours with me walking through every part of the factory. To say it's impressive would be an understatement. The coolest part was the anechoic chamber. The total lack of background noise while in the chamber threw my equilibrium off... I actually began to feel a little queasy and off-balance... very weird feeling, but WAY cool. The level of detail and manufacturing tolerances in their voice-coil manufacturing was also very impressive... Unfortunately, I was so in awe of it all, I forgot to take pictures!







They are great people building great products!


----------



## boyce89976

Please check my understanding on "layers". Can I set up my AVM 50v the following way for a single source with three different uses?


Input Source Resolution Bass Management

HDMI1 BluRay 1080p24 Movie

HDMI1 DVD (same source as BluRay) 1080p60 Movie

HDMI1 CD (same source as BluRay) N/a Music


----------



## ravichopra

Oppo BDP-83 SACD multichannel problem with AVM-50.


I've got a BDP-83 (latest firmware) connected via HDMI to an AVM-50 with the 1.47f firmware. The problem I experience is that while SACD 2-channel layers play fine, there is no sound with multi-channel SACD. Andrew at Anthem confirmed the issue as being something to do with how OPPO transmitted the multichannel digital stream, and said that the problem does not exist with the older OPPO DVD players, but indicated it was present with newer OPPO Blu Rays. He also indicated that the problem should be resolved with the V versions of the AVM50 and D2, but that no fix would be forthcoming with the non-V versions.


Has anyone else experienced this? Thoughts on possible solutions?


I know I could use the analog outs, but I'm not super excited about D->A->wire->A->D->process->A.

I'm also not super excited about upgrading to the V due to the expense and the simple fact that in all other ways the AVM50 meets my needs beautifully.


Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!


-Ravi


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22697629
> 
> 
> Oppo BDP-83 SACD multichannel problem with AVM-50.
> 
> I've got a BDP-83 (latest firmware) connected via HDMI to an AVM-50 with the 1.47f firmware. The problem I experience is that while SACD 2-channel layers play fine, there is no sound with multi-channel SACD. Andrew at Anthem confirmed the issue as being something to do with how OPPO transmitted the multichannel digital stream, and said that the problem does not exist with the older OPPO DVD players, but indicated it was present with newer OPPO Blu Rays. He also indicated that the problem should be resolved with the V versions of the AVM50 and D2, but that no fix would be forthcoming with the non-V versions.
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this? Thoughts on possible solutions?
> 
> I know I could use the analog outs, but I'm not super excited about D->A->wire->A->D->process->A.
> 
> I'm also not super excited about upgrading to the V due to the expense and the simple fact that in all other ways the AVM50 meets my needs beautifully.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!
> 
> -Ravi




Go to the OPPO setup screen i have attached


Set Secondary Audio to OFF (If ON, it turns off the HD HDMI Audio)

Set HDMI to LPCM (Not Auto or Bitstream as the OPPO BDP-83 will now do the decoding)

Set LPCM Bitrate to 96k (Not in use for digital but the limit of your Anthem unit)

Set SACD Output to PCM


Now setup a source for SACD in your AVM50

I use DVD3 and change the name to SACD which then appears when you select and play SACDs

Select a HDMI scaler input port # if you have a monitor turned for SACD playback.

Select Audio In as Digital HDMI


Hope I did not forget anything.. Enjoy


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22697291
> 
> 
> Please check my understanding on "layers". Can I set up my AVM 50v the following way for a single source with three different uses?
> 
> 
> Input Source Resolution Bass Management
> 
> HDMI1 BluRay 1080p24 Movie
> 
> HDMI1 DVD (same source as BluRay) 1080p60 Movie
> 
> HDMI1 CD (same source as BluRay) N/a Music



Sure. Keep in mind that for the CD Source you will still need to send HDMI 1 Input to the Scaler (even though you don't intend to use video output) since that's how the HDMI audio coming in on it becomes available. For the 1080p/24 content coming in on the Blu-ray Source, if you want that to go out to the display as 1080p/24 then you will also need to set a different Video Output Configuration choice. Either use Through, or set up a 2nd Video Output Configuration which sends 1080p/24 to the display.


You can also set up related Source definitions which differ only in the Video Source Adjust Menu settings. For example, I have identical Source definitions for my Comcast HD/DVR which differ only in how the Custom Crop and Scaling settings are set in Video Source Adjust for each.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22697629
> 
> 
> Oppo BDP-83 SACD multichannel problem with AVM-50.
> 
> 
> I've got a BDP-83 (latest firmware) connected via HDMI to an AVM-50 with the 1.47f firmware. The problem I experience is that while SACD 2-channel layers play fine, there is no sound with multi-channel SACD. Andrew at Anthem confirmed the issue as being something to do with how OPPO transmitted the multichannel digital stream, and said that the problem does not exist with the older OPPO DVD players, but indicated it was present with newer OPPO Blu Rays. He also indicated that the problem should be resolved with the V versions of the AVM50 and D2, but that no fix would be forthcoming with the non-V versions.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this? Thoughts on possible solutions?
> 
> 
> I know I could use the analog outs, but I'm not super excited about D->A->wire->A->D->process->A.
> 
> I'm also not super excited about upgrading to the V due to the expense and the simple fact that in all other ways the AVM50 meets my needs beautifully.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!
> 
> 
> -Ravi



For the HDMI output from the 83, be sure the video resolution is set explicitly to 720p or higher or you will be limited to 2-channel for high bit rate audio. I.e., don't use Source Direct for SACD.


Also set SACD Output PCM.


I don't know what Andrew has in mind. As far as I know there is no issue between the OPPO 83 and the original AVM 50 for playback of SACDs as HDMI 5.1 LPCM 88.2KHz, but it's been a while....


You could also check with OPPO Tech Support as they use Anthem units for testing, although I don't know if they have an original AVM 50 at this point.

--Bob


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22697995
> 
> 
> For the HDMI output from the 83, be sure the video resolution is set explicitly to 720p or higher or you will be limited to 2-channel for high bit rate audio. I.e., don't use Source Direct for SACD.
> 
> Also set SACD Output PCM.
> 
> I don't know what Andrew has in mind. As far as I know there is no issue between the OPPO 83 and the original AVM 50 for playback of SACDs as HDMI 5.1 LPCM 88.2KHz, but it's been a while....
> 
> You could also check with OPPO Tech Support as they use Anthem units for testing, although I don't know if they have an original AVM 50 at this point.
> 
> --Bob



YOU DID IT!!!!


I don't know why I didn't come here first. I've been pulling my hair out for YEARS periodically going back and forth with both Anthem and OPPO on this.


I had video output resolution set to Auto. Once I set it to 1080P - beautiful multi-channel SACD sound.


Bob Pariseau is officially my favorite person of the year.


-Ravi


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22698249
> 
> 
> YOU DID IT!!!!
> 
> I don't know why I didn't come here first. I've been pulling my hair out for YEARS periodically going back and forth with both Anthem and OPPO on this.
> 
> I had video output resolution set to Auto. Once I set it to 1080P - beautiful multi-channel SACD sound.
> 
> Bob Pariseau is officially my favorite person of the year.
> 
> -Ravi



I suppose this begs the question as to which has the better video scaler - AVM-50 or BDP-83? Should I be switching that setting back and forth for SACD vs video viewing or am I better off just letting the OPPO do it's thing and pass 1080p to the Anthem?


Best,

-Ravi


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ My recommendation would be that you leave the OPPO 83 set at explicit 1080p with 1080p/24 AUTO. Do that even if your display does not take 1080p/24 (the AVM 50 will lift the output frame rate to /60; a trivial process that introduces no problems).


However leave DVD 24p Conversion set to OFF by default, and turn it on for specific discs you know it works well with.


Picture Adjustment controls in the 83 should be left at their factory default (0) values. Adjust video calibration as necessary in your display -- with the AVM 50 providing assistance if you can't get the complete answer using the controls in the display.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22698249
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> Bob Pariseau is officially my favorite person of the year.
> 
> 
> -Ravi



I trust that's renewable annually?

--Bob


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22698457
> 
> 
> I trust that's renewable annually?
> 
> --Bob



As far as I'm concerned this is renewed automatically in perpetuity until someone else can deliver nearly as much value in as few words. It's like a multi-year headache has finally lifted.

Thank you!

-Ravi


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22697967
> 
> 
> Sure. Keep in mind that for the CD Source you will still need to send HDMI 1 Input to the Scaler (even though you don't intend to use video output) since that's how the HDMI audio coming in on it becomes available. For the 1080p/24 content coming in on the Blu-ray Source, if you want that to go out to the display as 1080p/24 then you will also need to set a different Video Output Configuration choice. Either use Through, or set up a 2nd Video Output Configuration which sends 1080p/24 to the display.
> 
> You can also set up related Source definitions which differ only in the Video Source Adjust Menu settings. For example, I have identical Source definitions for my Comcast HD/DVR which differ only in how the Custom Crop and Scaling settings are set in Video Source Adjust for each.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob! I'm traveling this week, and reading and re-reading the manual before beginning my setup process tomorrow. On top of that, I'm a "visual learner", so words on a page - particularly of the technical/process variety - don't always translate well in my brain.







Glad to know I'm beginning to understand!


----------



## yacht422

a question primarily for Bob, as he has been (is?) an Oppo resource.

RE: chips: Who has the better video chip, D-2 vs: oppo93 and D2 vs: oppo 103

the same question can apply to the d2v, but i have the D2

Does the D2 pass 3-D, or just the d2v

many thanks

Walt


----------



## obie_fl

Not Bob but I can tell you the D2 does not pass packed frame 3D i.e. 3D Blu Rays.

I'm also pretty sure Bob will give the edge to the Oppos over the D2 too. I know I'm slowly but surely bypassing the D2 video processor with my video sources.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I would recommend using the D2 or D2v for upscaling 480i SD TV broadcasts and 1080i HD TV broadcasts (rather than passing the signal through the HDMI Inputs of the 103/105). For a TV set top box, set it to "native" output so that it sends out 480i, 720p or 1080i according to what channel you are watching and let the Anthem take it from there.


For the OPPO 103/105 use 1080p for everything. The D2 and D2v are as good but not better and letting the OPPO do the scaling means you can use the convenience features in the player such as DVD 24p Conversion.


For the OPPO 93/95 you might like it better to let the D2 or D2v upscale SD-DVDs. That's a little more complicated to set up properly for 4:3 SD-DVDs since if the OPPO is sending out SD resolution it should not also be set to generate the pillar box bars.

--Bob


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22700806
> 
> 
> ^ I would recommend using the D2 or D2v for upscaling 480i SD TV broadcasts and 1080i HD TV broadcasts (rather than passing the signal through the HDMI Inputs of the 103/105). For a TV set top box, set it to "native" output so that it sends out 480i, 720p or 1080i according to what channel you are watching and let the Anthem take it from there.
> 
> For the OPPO 103/105 use 1080p for everything. The D2 and D2v are as good but not better and letting the OPPO do the scaling means you can use the convenience features in the player such as DVD 24p Conversion.
> 
> For the OPPO 93/95 you might like it better to let the D2 or D2v upscale SD-DVDs. That's a little more complicated to set up properly for 4:3 SD-DVDs since if the OPPO is sending out SD resolution it should not also be set to generate the pillar box bars.
> 
> --Bob



Ideally, I'd let my TiVo Premier XL4 output native resolution, but it takes my Anthem D2 to "resynch" whenever the output resolution changes. The Anthem D2 loses the picture for more than long enough to be annoying. It's painful when channel surfing between channels tha that've. 480i, 720p, 1080i and 1080p (TiVo can output 1080p native for Internet sources, another irritation I have with the D2 since it doesn't work with the TiVo when using HDMI). So, I configured my TiVo to output a fixed resolution, and any hypothetical decrease in quality by having the TiVo do this is way more than compensated for by getting rid of the annoying resynch when switching between different resolutions. But kind of defeats a main benefit of the D2. Aside: my latest generation TiVo still has HDMI handshaking problems with my D2 (latest non-beta firmware from a while back). However, I have 2 other TiVo's in other rooms connected directly via HDMI to plasma TVs outputting native resolution and those TVs have no HDMI handshaking and long resynch problems.


How does theD2v compared to the D2 when switching output resolutions? Does TiVo work via HDMI with the D2v? Although now that Anthem no longer provides upgrades from D2 to D2v, the point is moot.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22698249
> 
> 
> I've been pulling my hair out for YEARS periodically going back and forth with both Anthem and OPPO on this.



That is sad! It is a basic HDMI rule (although it makes no sense) that both manufacturers should know. Glad you got it working though.


By the way, Bob and even Nick @ Anthem are always recommending that none of the HDMI-related settings be left to AUTO in the Anthem, especially when debugging issues. If you make the decisions yourself and use EXPLICIT settings it speeds up the handshake and reduces chance of glitches.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22701814
> 
> 
> it takes my Anthem D2 to "resynch" whenever the output resolution changes.
> 
> 
> How does theD2v compared to the D2 when switching output resolutions?



You mean *input* resolutions?


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22702163
> 
> 
> You mean *input* resolutions?



Yes, I meant "input".


----------



## p.las

A Simple question.

The sub cutt off in ARC . Dos it affekt redirectet bass from the main/surrounds . Or only the LFE Channel ? I Can see that it have being discused before . But i cuddent find at ansver......that i could understand .


All my speakers is set to 80hz and my sub Cut off to120hz. If if also affekt redirectet bas's from the main/surround, there Will be a overlap of bass in the 80 - 120hz region


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22702163
> 
> 
> You mean *input* resolutions?



I don't have the D2 to compare the the v with latest firmware is pretty quick at taking to different inputs, say max 2 sec. since the output is held steady the display doesn't scramble which takes much longer in my case.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

An HDMI handshake is required each time the input resolution changes.


The minimum time for an HDMI handshake is right around 2 seconds. This is due to delays that are designed into the HDMI spec to give the equipment at each end of the cable time to get its act together.


If the handshake doesn't complete normally, then a "handshake retry" happens. Thus the delay becomes longer in additional 2 second increments depending on how many retries happen.


Now, there's nothing you can do do eliminate the handshake in the first place -- short of always sending the same resolution. And there's nothing you can do to shorten the 2 seconds per handshake. But there's PLENTY you can do to reduce the chances that HDMI handshake retries will be needed!


First and foremost is to see to the quality of your HDMI cabling. Marginal cabling is the single most common reason for handshake retries. The cable carries both high and low bandwidth signals and either type can be marginal separately. So even though video is stable AFTER the handshake, a marginal cable can still cause problems DURING the handshake.


If you have any adapters, wall plates, daisy-chained cables, HDMI switches, or additional HDMI processing gizmos in the signal path, they alone can be the cause of handshake problems, particularly for 1080p video and even more so if you are using Deep Color for video.


Second, simplify the negotiation that happens during the handshake. At the source end of each cable, select explicit settings for the HDMI output format rather than Auto settings.


Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so the problem can be anywhere on the path from the Source device all the way through to the display. This is true even if you are only having problems from one Source device. This is also why Source devices with flaky HDMI implementations have more trouble going THROUGH a processor like the Anthem than when connected directly to a display. Indeed, we are not so far removed from when cable and satellite TV set top boxes were totally incapable of setting up HDMI through a processor. Those older boxes ONLY worked when directly connected to a TV.


The HDMI handshake is driven by the Source, so check to make sure you have the most up to date firmware in each Source.


If your problem is with a cable or satellite TV box, consider using HDMI only for video. Use Optical/Coax digital audio from the box to the Anthem. Optical/Coax carries the same digital audio as HDMI for TV programs.


For folks with the original D2 or AVM 50, Anthem states that you will have BETTER HDMI performance using the Official V1.33 firmware than with the "test" V1.47f firmware. That's true unless you have one of a small set of problem devices that V1.47f was designed to try to work around.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22702426
> 
> 
> A Simple question.
> 
> The sub cutt off in ARC . Dos it affekt redirectet bass from the main/surrounds . Or only the LFE Channel ? I Can see that it have being discused before . But i cuddent find at ansver......that i could understand .
> 
> 
> All my speakers is set to 80hz and my sub Cut off to120hz. If if also affekt redirectet bas's from the main/surround, there Will be a overlap of bass in the 80 - 120hz region



The value you should be looking at is not Cutoff but the Sub's Crossover as uploaded by ARC into Setup > Speaker Configuration.


Think of the Sub's Cutoff, rather, as kind of like Max EQ Frequency for the Subwoofer.


Also keep in mind that the actual transition from main to Sub for each main speaker is a combination of the Crossover settings and what ARC is doing with the Room Correction parameters. And LFE is handled specially. I.e., trust ARC to have done it right according to the Target settings in effect.

--Bob


----------



## nrwatson

Help

I have the DV2 and have upgraded to the latest software the input is the kaleidescape system through HDMI

When I play a DVD 5.1 it is fine until I press pause Once I try to play again I get this high pitched screech through the system if I play another source and the n come back to the dvd it plays properly

Any help will be gratefully received


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *randman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22701814
> 
> 
> Ideally, I'd let my TiVo Premier XL4 output native resolution, but it takes my Anthem D2 to "resynch" whenever the output resolution changes. The Anthem D2 loses the picture for more than long enough to be annoying. It's painful when channel surfing between channels tha that've. 480i, 720p, 1080i and 1080p (TiVo can output 1080p native for Internet sources, another irritation I have with the D2 since it doesn't work with the TiVo when using HDMI). So, I configured my TiVo to output a fixed resolution, and any hypothetical decrease in quality by having the TiVo do this is way more than compensated for by getting rid of the annoying resynch when switching between different resolutions. But kind of defeats a main benefit of the D2. Aside: my latest generation TiVo still has HDMI handshaking problems with my D2 (latest non-beta firmware from a while back). However, I have 2 other TiVo's in other rooms connected directly via HDMI to plasma TVs outputting native resolution and those TVs have no HDMI handshaking and long resynch problems.
> 
> How does theD2v compared to the D2 when switching output resolutions? Does TiVo work via HDMI with the D2v? Although now that Anthem no longer provides upgrades from D2 to D2v, the point is moot.



There is nothing to be gained by using the Anthem to process the video signal from a OTA TV station or a cable system.

Their signals are so poor to start with and are a highly compressed signal at either at 480i, 720p or 1080i. Nothing more is currently available.


You can eliminate your problems by having your Tivo or whatever set top box you have set to always output 1080i to the Anthem.

Then have the Anthem set to also send out the 1080i to your TV set on that selected HDMI output port you have for TV ( Not. DVD or Blu Ray)

If your TV is 1080p it will internally process the 1080i signal to 1080p without any delay .

This should make TV channel changing a smooth invisible process.

Mind you now, I am only recommending this for OTA TV or Cable not DVD or BluRay.

Test it. Check the video quality. You will not see a difference in the OTA TV or cable video picture quality.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22702426
> 
> 
> A Simple question.
> 
> The sub cutt off in ARC . Dos it affekt redirectet bass from the main/surrounds . Or only the LFE Channel ? I Can see that it have being discused before . But i cuddent find at ansver......that i could understand .
> 
> All my speakers is set to 80hz and my sub Cut off to120hz. If if also affekt redirectet bas's from the main/surround, there Will be a overlap of bass in the 80 - 120hz region





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22703339
> 
> 
> The value you should be looking at is not Cutoff but the Sub's Crossover as uploaded by ARC into Setup > Speaker Configuration.
> 
> Think of the Sub's Cutoff, rather, as kind of like Max EQ Frequency for the Subwoofer.
> 
> Also keep in mind that the actual transition from main to Sub for each main speaker is a combination of the Crossover settings and what ARC is doing with the Room Correction parameters. And LFE is handled specially. I.e., trust ARC to have done it right according to the Target settings in effect.
> 
> --Bob



Peter


Your main and all your surround speakers should be set to SMALL as in the ARC setup instructions.

The signal then sent to the sub woofer is a combination of everything below the main speaker lower cutoff and the LFE.1 signal


The bass crossover as described and explained by Anthem is a smooth transition from the main speakers to the subwoofer as it is a gentle slope not a sharp cutoff.


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22700806
> 
> 
> ^ I would recommend using the D2 or D2v for upscaling 480i SD TV broadcasts and 1080i HD TV broadcasts (rather than passing the signal through the HDMI Inputs of the 103/105). For a TV set top box, set it to "native" output so that it sends out 480i, 720p or 1080i according to what channel you are watching and let the Anthem take it from there.
> 
> For the OPPO 103/105 use 1080p for everything. The D2 and D2v are as good but not better and letting the OPPO do the scaling means you can use the convenience features in the player such as DVD 24p Conversion.
> 
> For the OPPO 93/95 you might like it better to let the D2 or D2v upscale SD-DVDs. That's a little more complicated to set up properly for 4:3 SD-DVDs since if the OPPO is sending out SD resolution it should not also be set to generate the pillar box bars.
> 
> --Bob


thanks for the reply (s)

valuable info, as always

walt


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22703339
> 
> 
> The value you should be looking at is not Cutoff but the Sub's Crossover as uploaded by ARC into Setup > Speaker Configuration.
> 
> Think of the Sub's Cutoff, rather, as kind of like Max EQ Frequency for the Subwoofer.
> 
> Also keep in mind that the actual transition from main to Sub for each main speaker is a combination of the Crossover settings and what ARC is doing with the Room Correction parameters. And LFE is handled specially. I.e., trust ARC to have done it right according to the Target settings in effect.
> 
> --Bob



In the speakers setup the valmue for the sub is set to 80 hz . But from what i have understand , it Will bee bypassed when ARC is activ. Is it wrong to say that the sub Cut off is very similar to the low pass filter on the sub?


----------



## boyce89976

Okay, need help... I have my BluRay and Xbox set up, although the Xbox gave me some audio fits for a while today... a constant frequency static noise. Through trial and error, I have that resolved for now. The problem I'm having now is that with my Moto Cable box I can't get anything but a green screen, with an error message sometimes that says something along the lines of "the HD content of one of your devices is compromised" or something similar to that. I called Comcast, hooked the HDMI cable up directly to the TV and no problem. Problem only exists when hooked up to the AVM50v.


Any help would be much appreciated!


Thanks,


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22703652
> 
> 
> There is nothing to be gained by using the Anthem to process the video signal from a OTA TV station or a cable system.
> 
> Their signals are so poor to start with and are a highly compressed signal at either at 480i, 720p or 1080i. Nothing more is currently available.
> 
> You can eliminate your problems by having your Tivo or whatever set top box you have set to always output 1080i to the Anthem.
> 
> Then have the Anthem set to also send out the 1080i to your TV set on that selected HDMI output port you have for TV ( Not. DVD or Blu Ray)
> 
> If your TV is 1080p it will internally process the 1080i signal to 1080p without any delay .
> 
> This should make TV channel changing a smooth invisible process.
> 
> Mind you now, I am only recommending this for OTA TV or Cable not DVD or BluRay.
> 
> Test it. Check the video quality. You will not see a difference in the OTA TV or cable video picture quality.



Sorry Stew but I have to disagree. In my experience just the opposite is true. Cable/Satellite is pretty much the last source that benefits significantly from processing. I currently have three video processors (D2, Oppo 103, and Lumagen Radiance) well four if you count the one in the projector, in all cases the external processors do a better job then the various cable STBs (Cisco/Sci Atl) I've had in my system. If I let the cable box upconvert to 1080i or 1080P for the most part it is crap especially 480i channels, no where near as nice as any of the other processors. I even see artifacts in the 720P channels when the box is upconverting. Maybe I've just had bad luck with cable boxes but I really don't think the Satellite and Cable companies are putting much effort into their onboard processors.


I been experimenting a lot lately running my cable box through the Oppo 103 and it is really working quite well, even dare I say better then the D2. The key for me and I believe Bob mentioned this is to use toslink or coax for the audio. I was never able to get my cable box to consistently output HDMI audio to the D2, it actually works pretty well with the 103 but I'll keep it on Toslink since it simplifies things and there is not loss in quality at this point. Another option is to run component into the D2 from the cable box but I refuse to convert a digital signal to analog only to go right back to digital. I should also add I'm probably pickier then most about video but the scaling and de-interlacing differences are pretty prominent in my case.


----------



## boyce89976

Okay, now the static noise is back intermittently on my Xbox input. Anyone have any ideas what my two problems might be?


1) Green screen/HD Content Security Comprimised on my Moto DCX3400 HD/DVR

2) Intermittent static audio (no actual game audio at all when it does it) via HDMI with Xbox. The static sounds like digitized static.


Bob? Stew? You guys are the gurus.


BTW, the AVM50v sounds and looks friggin incredible with Bluray/lossless audio!


----------



## boyce89976

Okay, Xbox issue seems to be because the AVM50v sometimes diagnoses the incoming audio signal as "PCM 6 Channel" without categorizing it correctly as DD5.1. Cycling through the inputs back to the Xbox solves the problem.


Weird.


----------



## mkaye

still fighting with my D2v

last night I had only sub from my NMT - no LCR - instead of no sound all together (running 3.0f again)

tried all sorts of things, but nothing brought it back

funny thing was I could pick some shows & the audio was fine, then I had 1 that was fine while testing, but when I went to watch, only sub

switching to cable box was fine every time

finally watched from my netbook using the same file on the NMT that had problems (Netbook=HDMI3)


my main concern is the slight crunching when navigating the GUI on either the NMT or STB (NMT=HDMI1, STB=HDMI5, so not on the same card)

I never heard if before 2 weeks ago - any theories on why navigating the GUI (changing the video) could result in audio?

to me it smells like a hardware issue

I am going to check all the HDMI inputs again for bent pins and change the HDMI cable on the NMT box & try 1 source at a time

I have a friends D2v to test too if all else fails


mark


----------



## boyce89976

Sorry for all the questions today... red-eye flight, no sleep...










One of the things I can't seem to figure out is how to lock the "mode" to "Dolby D" and "none" for addition processing. The AVM seems to default to a DSP setting on every input. I have played with "modes" in the setup menu with no success.


I'd like to defeat the DSP settings for all inputs as the default, but be able to cycle through them if the mood strikes me.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22704713
> 
> 
> Sorry for all the questions today... red-eye flight, no sleep...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the things I can't seem to figure out is how to lock the "mode" to "Dolby D" and "none" for addition processing. The AVM seems to default to a DSP setting on every input. I have played with "modes" in the setup menu with no success.
> 
> I'd like to defeat the DSP settings for all inputs as the default, but be able to cycle through them if the mood strikes me.



In mode Presets item 7 in the setup menu choose Last used


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22705096
> 
> 
> In mode Presets item 7 in the setup menu choose Last used



I have tried that, but it's not working for me for some reason.


----------



## p.las

Please


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22704030
> 
> 
> In the speakers setup the valmue for the sub is set to 80 hz . But from what i have understand , it Will bee bypassed when ARC is activ. Is it wrong to say that the sub Cut off is very similar to the low pass filter on the sub?



Please :-D


----------



## boyce89976

Just found this nice review of the AVM 50v 3D:

http://www.soundstagexperience.com/index.php/equipment-menu/388-anthem-avm50v-3d-audio-video-processor


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22705124
> 
> 
> Please
> 
> Please :-D



I answered your question above but again here I will repeat it.


Peter


Your main and all your surround speakers should be set to SMALL as in the ARC setup instructions.

The sub should be set to bypass as in the ARC instructions

*The signal sent to the sub woofer is a combination of everything below the main speaker lower cutoff and the LFE.1 signal*


The bass crossover is described and explained by Anthem as a smooth transition from the main speakers to the subwoofer and it is a gentle slope not a sharp cutoff.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22705297
> 
> 
> I answered your question above but again here I will repeat it.
> 
> Peter
> 
> Your main and all your surround speakers should be set to SMALL as in the ARC setup instructions.
> 
> The sub should be set to bypass as in the ARC instructions
> *The signal sent to the sub woofer is a combination of everything below the main speaker lower cutoff and the LFE.1 signal*
> 
> The bass crossover is described and explained by Anthem as a smooth transition from the main speakers to the subwoofer and it is a gentle slope not a sharp cutoff.


If you need a further explanation let us know


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22705106
> 
> 
> I have tried that, but it's not working for me for some reason.



Last Used doesn't work very well. I've reported to Anthem but they haven't addressed it.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22705297
> 
> 
> I answered your question above but again here I will repeat it.
> 
> Peter
> 
> Your main and all your surround speakers should be set to SMALL as in the ARC setup instructions.
> 
> The sub should be set to bypass as in the ARC instructions
> *The signal sent to the sub woofer is a combination of everything below the main speaker lower cutoff and the LFE.1 signal*
> 
> The bass crossover is described and explained by Anthem as a smooth transition from the main speakers to the subwoofer and it is a gentle slope not a sharp cutoff.



So the sub Cut off have the same funktion A's the low pass filter on a sub?


In my speakers setup in anthem. The subwoofer lowpass - is it by passed or not , when ARC is active?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22706021
> 
> 
> So the sub Cut off have the same funktion A's the low pass filter on a sub?
> 
> In my speakers setup in anthem. The subwoofer lowpass - is it by passed or not , when ARC is active?



Maybe the best way to answer your question is to give you some additional information about Anthem and ARC

And maybe you should explain or could describe what you are trying to accomplish and one of the forum members with that knowledge can answer your question better.


The speaker configuration setup in the Anthem is different than the target settings set by ARC.


The manual set up instructions allow you to set the Anthem crossover frequencies for each speaker in Advanced Settings if you want.


ARC will set those crossover settings when it is run.


This is not the same as the Cutoffs in the ARC Target settings


You should have set your sub woofer control to its *HIGHEST* setting and it is *IS* bypassed when using ARC


----------



## mkaye

update:

NMT still sub only

Netbook didn't work last night either (fine the night before)

I had video, but audio was coming out the netbook speakers like it never negotiated audio

tried a few things, but no change

finally unplugged the D2v and everything came back to normal


mark


----------



## matty1137

I'm using a D2 with ARC, I'm very happy with how my system sounds, but I feel like I am lacking in the base department. My ARC results seem to confirm this. If I change my subwoofer setting to flat in ARC, will it then NOT roll off the frequencies below my sub's crossover point (set to 60 Hz by ARC)? That's what I'd like ARC to do. I'm using a pair of identical subs with are rated down to 22Hz +/- 2 db and have built in protection. I really just want to know if changing my sub to flat will accomplish my goal of stopping ARC from rolling off the frequencies below my sub's crossover. Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks.
ARCTargets.jpg 107k .jpg file
ARC1.jpg 341k .jpg file


----------



## tngiloy

ANTHEM D2 --- FREE TO GOOD HOME



My D2 is presently at the Anthem repair facility with a 'fried' video board. I was quoted $2,000-$2,200 for a replacement board, which seems rediculous to me. Since I have moved on to an Integra DHC-80.3 pre/pro (which BTW sounds as good and is much more stable with HDMI switching) and have no need for a 45lb doorstop I'm looking to get rid of this unit to someone who may have need of it.


If you pay for shipping of this unit to and from Anthem, its yours.

If you can find a video board and can change it out you can have a D2 for almost nothing.Or you can use it for parts. Or you can use it as a doorstop.


I also have _*for sale*_ the ARC unit (complete and in perfect working order) that I used with this D2.


Please PM me with any offers or questions.


Tom


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22704250
> 
> 
> Sorry Stew but I have to disagree. In my experience just the opposite is true. Cable/Satellite is pretty much the last source that benefits significantly from processing. I currently have three video processors (D2, Oppo 103, and Lumagen Radiance) well four if you count the one in the projector, in all cases the external processors do a better job then the various cable STBs (Cisco/Sci Atl) I've had in my system. If I let the cable box upconvert to 1080i or 1080P for the most part it is crap especially 480i channels, no where near as nice as any of the other processors. I even see artifacts in the 720P channels when the box is upconverting. Maybe I've just had bad luck with cable boxes but I really don't think the Satellite and Cable companies are putting much effort into their onboard processors.
> 
> I been experimenting a lot lately running my cable box through the Oppo 103 and it is really working quite well, even dare I say better then the D2. The key for me and I believe Bob mentioned this is to use toslink or coax for the audio. I was never able to get my cable box to consistently output HDMI audio to the D2, it actually works pretty well with the 103 but I'll keep it on Toslink since it simplifies things and there is not loss in quality at this point. Another option is to run component into the D2 from the cable box but I refuse to convert a digital signal to analog only to go right back to digital. I should also add I'm probably pickier then most about video but the scaling and de-interlacing differences are pretty prominent in my case.



I agree with Obie here completely. Even my old AVM-50's video processing (same as in the old D2) is miles ahead of what my S3 TiVo can do. I go native from TiVo to Anthem via component (because I LOATHE the handshaking issues with HDMI) and have a variety of different settings for different cable pictures (HD, 4x3 SD, SD letterbox, and SD stretch). By tuning the Anthem stretch/zoom/sharpening/etc for each, I get much better quality than when letting the S3 do the scaling/processing.


Obie, how do you like the 103 compared to the Radiance? One thing I really like about the Lumagen products compared to others is the ability to manage red/green color and tint in addition to blue (I really wish my AVM-50 had that). I added an old VisionDVI (total cost $90 - thank you ebay!) to a basement system centered around a Pioneer Elite RPTV and the ability to address the overscan and red-push have been miraculous.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matty1137*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39180#post_22706331
> 
> 
> I'm using a D2 with ARC, I'm very happy with how my system sounds, but I feel like I am lacking in the base department. My ARC results seem to confirm this. If I change my subwoofer setting to flat in ARC, will it then NOT roll off the frequencies below my sub's crossover point (set to 60 Hz by ARC)? That's what I'd like ARC to do. I'm using a pair of identical subs with are rated down to 22Hz +/- 2 db and have built in protection. I really just want to know if changing my sub to flat will accomplish my goal of stopping ARC from rolling off the frequencies below my sub's crossover. Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks.
> ARCTargets.jpg 107k .jpg file
> ARC1.jpg 341k .jpg file



As you say your subs are protected so you can set the sub to Flat in the advanced settings in the target window


I think maybe there is something wrong or you mis-selected an item in your setup.


Did you set all your speakers to SMALL ?


Did you select 1 (one ) as the number of subs ?


Have you set the sub phasing correctly ?


You should have set both your sub woofer controls to its HIGHEST setting and so it is bypassed when using ARC


Did you go into the Anthem setup and turn EQ on for every source you want to use it for ?


----------



## matty1137




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39180#post_22706449
> 
> 
> As you say your subs are protected so you can set the sub to Flat in the advanced settings in the target window
> 
> I think maybe there is something wrong or you mis-selected an item in your setup.
> 
> Did you set all your speakers to SMALL ?
> 
> Did you select 1 (one ) as the number of subs ?
> 
> Have you set the sub phasing correctly ?
> 
> You should have set both your sub woofer controls to its HIGHEST setting and so it is bypassed when using ARC
> 
> Did you go into the Anthem setup and turn EQ on for every source you want to use it for ?



Thanks for the reply. The answer is "yes" to all of your questions. I don't want ARC to roll off any of the frequencies for my sub below the crossover. Will the flat setting achieve this?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matty1137*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39180#post_22706490
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. The answer is "yes" to all of your questions. I don't want ARC to roll off any of the frequencies for my sub below the crossover. Will the flat setting achieve this?



Matt ?


I know you have said yes to all the previous questions I asked.

The chart shows that ARC measured your sub with a peak right before it drops sharply around 60hz.

That is not ARC causing that unless you have a bad microphone.

There is something inherently wrong in your sub setup. I have never seen a sub rolled off at such a high frequency.

Setting ARC to Flat will not overcome a basic setup error or problem like this it is just to extend a sub lower than 20 hz.

With the Auto setting you have now the min sub setting is at 20 hz way below the graph you are getting.


I would try some different actions to correct this. I cannot see ARC doing this to your sub

First turn off one sub and use Quick Measure and see if the freq range is extended. Then try the other sub individually.

If you get a good chart then try Quick Measure with both subs.

Go back and double check the items I originally asked you about and you said Yes. Double check as something is not right and I would not blame ARC. Not yet anyway.

When you run ARC listen carefully to the low frequency sweep. You should be able hear it going very low in freq. Almost to inaudibility at 20hz

If you have a Freq test record test your subs with it.


Maybe Bob or dmusoke can add some additional advice or thoughts


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39150#post_22706021
> 
> 
> So the sub Cut off have the same funktion A's the low pass filter on a sub?
> 
> 
> In my speakers setup in anthem. The subwoofer lowpass - is it by passed or not , when ARC is active?



Cut Off and Crossover for the Sub are two different things.


Crossover (see the value which is Uploaded into Setup > Speaker Configuration by ARC) is a low pass filter that is used as one -- JUST one -- of the tools by ARC to shape the transition between the main speakers and the Sub. The Room Correction parameters uploaded by ARC are also part of that. For bass steering from the main speakers it is not "bypassed", but its action is not simply defined because of what's also going on with the main speaker Crossover settings and the Room Correction parameters. I.e., it is a lot more complicated than saying it is "the same function" as the low pass filter built into your sub. For LFE content it IS "bypassed" in the sense that LFE is handled specially so that a low sub Crossover does not cause loss of the high bass end of LFE, assuming the sub can reproduce bass up there.


Cut Off for the Sub has to do with how high up ARC applies correction resources to the Sub. Think of it as being, roughly, Max EQ Frequency for the Sub.


Now, this answer is no different than the answers you've been given the previous times you asked this, so I really don't know whether any of this is sinking in.


So let's try it differently: Is there a problem you are trying to correct, or are you simply curious about the internal details of how ARC functions, or are you looking for some sort of an OK to second guess the choices ARC has made just for the heck of it?

--Bob


----------



## matty1137




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39180#post_22706856
> 
> 
> Matt ?
> 
> I know you have said yes to all the previous questions I asked.
> 
> The chart shows that ARC measured your sub with a peak right before it drops sharply around 60hz.
> 
> That is not ARC causing that unless you have a bad microphone.
> 
> There is something inherently wrong in your sub setup. I have never seen a sub rolled off at such a high frequency.
> 
> Setting ARC to Flat will not overcome a basic setup error or problem like this it is just to extend a sub lower than 20 hz.
> 
> With the Auto setting you have now the min sub setting is at 20 hz way below the graph you are getting.
> 
> I would try some different actions to correct this. I cannot see ARC doing this to your sub
> 
> First turn off one sub and use Quick Measure and see if the freq range is extended. Then try the other sub individually.
> 
> If you get a good chart then try Quick Measure with both subs.
> 
> Go back and double check the items I originally asked you about and you said Yes. Double check as something is not right and I would not blame ARC. Not yet anyway.
> 
> When you run ARC listen carefully to the low frequency sweep. You should be able hear it going very low in freq. Almost to inaudibility at 20hz
> 
> If you have a Freq test record test your subs with it.
> 
> Maybe Bob or dmusoke can add some additional advice or thoughts



Okay, thanks Stew. I will try the one-sub test with quick measure to see what response I get. Great idea. I'm not blaming ARC. I feel like the problem could be my subwoofer(s). Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matty1137*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39180#post_22706490
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. The answer is "yes" to all of your questions. I don't want ARC to roll off any of the frequencies for my sub below the crossover. Will the flat setting achieve this?



Yes, within the limits of what the sub can actually reproduce down there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

matty1137,

You do understand, right, that the red Measured curve for your Sub shows the raw, UNcorrected output of your sub.


I.e. the roll off of the Measured curve either side of that peak is not something ARC is doing. Your sub is just not producing very wide-range bass output. ARC can only work with what the sub is capable of producing.


Setting Flat will cause ARC to add less roll-off to the low bass end of the Target and Calculated curves, but your Sub is ALREADY weak down there, so I seriously doubt Flat will give you the answer you are looking for.

--Bob


----------



## Shayne2

Hi


I have the following difference and I thought maybe someone here can here.


I reran arc 10 pt. I did the usual.


Test volumes 0.0 and adjust to 75 db (usual -6 to -6.5). Run quick measurements and response around 60 when usually always around 75.


This time I was at the 60 peak 70. Set test tone to +2.5 and radio shack says +85 however quick response test says 70. Run and upload and all is real good. I know that the sample tones were definitely louder than my past experiences. The only 2 things I can say have changed is firmware upgrade 2.11 to 3.09 and windows 8 pro (including new pci com port card driver not digitally signed (you need to safe mode now)).


I point mic down for storage and did insure not plugged. Cal files are in. Volume max cleared. As I said it sounds gr8 I finally got around to uploading 2.1 music and it is foobar sensational. Just one of those hummm?


Regards


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Check the speaker volume trims ARC has uploaded. If it needs excessive trim on a speaker (usually the sub) it may have had to shift the entire solution down.

--Bob


----------



## Shayne2

Where would I look for that?


If you mean levels the max is 2.0 db sub and min is -1.5 centre?


Regards


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39180#post_22707022
> 
> 
> Cut Off and Crossover for the Sub are two different things.
> 
> Crossover (see the value which is Uploaded into Setup > Speaker Configuration by ARC) is a low pass filter that is used as one -- JUST one -- of the tools by ARC to shape the transition between the main speakers and the Sub. The Room Correction parameters uploaded by ARC are also part of that. For bass steering from the main speakers it is not "bypassed", but its action is not simply defined because of what's also going on with the main speaker Crossover settings and the Room Correction parameters. I.e., it is a lot more complicated than saying it is "the same function" as the low pass filter built into your sub. For LFE content it IS "bypassed" in the sense that LFE is handled specially so that a low sub Crossover does not cause loss of the high bass end of LFE, assuming the sub can reproduce bass up there.
> 
> Cut Off for the Sub has to do with how high up ARC applies correction resources to the Sub. Think of it as being, roughly, Max EQ Frequency for the Sub.
> 
> Now, this answer is no different than the answers you've been given the previous times you asked this, so I really don't know whether any of this is sinking in.
> 
> So let's try it differently: Is there a problem you are trying to correct, or are you simply curious about the internal details of how ARC functions, or are you looking for some sort of an OK to second guess the choices ARC has made just for the heck of it?
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob .


I am curius how ARC handle things. Maby i am a bit slog here. But english issent my prefered languish


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39180#post_22707455
> 
> 
> Hello Bob .
> 
> I am curius how ARC handle things. Maby i am a bit slow here. But english issent my prefered languish. So teknical things is hard for mé to understand - so please have pation whit mé. I try the Best i Can
> 
> Let mé try again . My cross overs are All set to 80hz ecept from the sub Cut off. It is set to 120hz. This is done manuel becurse my setup Sound Best this Way.
> 
> But i am unsure of the 120hz setting. Becurse if the directet bas's from the main/surrounds plays up to 120hz ( i know it drops off before) the overlap Will to Big, and Will create a boost. When i see at the sub graff in ARC . Issent that the Subs targetcurve , Both for redirectet bass and LFE ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes, but that's the Sub response. For LFE it is a good indication of actual output because all of LFE goes to the Sub, but for redirected bass you also have to look at when the main speakers start SENDING bass to the Sub.


Just because the Sub is capable of producing good, corrected output up to 120Hz doesn't mean it is going to reach into the main speaker channels and poach on all their bass up there.


The Sub gets directed bass according to the combination of the main speakers' crossovers and the Room Correction parameters. The Sub's ability to reproduce that directed bass is established by the combination of its own crossover, and the Room Correction parameters. The Sub's Cutoff adjusts how high up ARC attempts to correct the Sub's output, which may be higher than the Sub's Crossover in order to better reproduce higher LFE frequencies. Your Sub Cutoff of 120Hz is not directly relevant to the part played by the Sub's Crossover at 80Hz.


Anthem has never published the internal details of how ARC functions. So really, you still don't know exactly what's happening because you don't know how the Room Correction processing is functioning.


And given that, I think you need to have some faith that ARC is getting the basic math correct -- not doubling your bass output.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matty1137*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39180#post_22707035
> 
> 
> Okay, thanks Stew. I will try the one-sub test with quick measure to see what response I get. Great idea. I'm not blaming ARC. I feel like the problem could be my subwoofer(s). Thanks again.



Matt


Share with us the make and model of your speakers and the make and model of your sub

And also the ARC graph of your R/L/C speakers too


Stew


----------



## Shayne2

I spoke too soon since I was listening to music 2.1 ........... my wife came home to tv and dobly 5.1 is messed, the volume levels are way too low, with current solution heavy on centre. I reloaded old solution and sides are louder but higher db to reach normal listening. Now I am really confused as to what happened here with volumes, I may need to boot into windows 7 tomorrow and do more tests. I still am not too sure what Bob means by trims I reloaded defaults and then my settings with no change. The old solution is better than what happed today.


Regards


----------



## brusteraider

Well I got the dreaded "Video processor reset failed" error message while trying to upgrade my D2v from 2.10 to 3.09. Took all the right steps even pulled all the HDMI cables and anything powered. Used three different computers,first 2 with keyspan adapter and last one with straight serial connection. Reading previous posts it probably has something to do with the Video Board. I am not happy, I have done 2 upgrades on this unit with no problems. How could the video board brick with just an attempted update. Could those of you who had this problem tell me how it was resolved, am I looking at a new costly video board or a factory software fix.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brusteraider*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39180#post_22708011
> 
> 
> Well I got the dreaded "Video processor reset failed" error message while trying to upgrade my D2v from 2.10 to 3.09. Took all the right steps even pulled all the HDMI cables and anything powered. Used three different computers,first 2 with keyspan adapter and last one with straight serial connection. Reading previous posts it probably has something to do with the Video Board. I am not happy, I have done 2 upgrades on this unit with no problems. How could the video board brick with just an attempted update. Could those of you who had this problem tell me how it was resolved, am I looking at a new costly video board or a factory software fix.



Don't panic. Just give Anthem Tech Support a call. If the Flash Erase utility doesn't fix it (i.e., reset things so you can run the Install to completion), then they can explain what's involved in doing a hardware reset of the video board.

--Bob


----------



## boyce89976

Okay, spent a little more time with the AVM50v this morning and got the green screen worked out. To refresh, it's a Moto DCX3400 cable box, and when plugged into the AVM50v via HDMI produced a green screen - sometimes with an error message "the HD content has been compromised". After searching the 'net last night, and not finding any real solution, other than repeated confirmation that it was a handshake issue, caused either by having multiple devices on the same HDMI out, or as I suspected, an issue with being plugged into the 3D board of the AVM50v. This morning, I moved the DVR to HDMI input 5, and routed it out of HDMI output 2, an viola, everything is perfect!


I am still having the issue with the static noise on the Xbox sometimes when it doesn't recognize the Xbox's audio stream and picks 6-channel audio. I have to mute the system, which quiets the static, but doesn't completely mute it, and switch through all the inputs back to the Xbox to make it recognize the Dolby Digital stream over HDMI. The "static" sound does not sound good for the equipment. Any ideas what's causing that and how to fix it?


----------



## Shayne2

Run 2011 out of the box (3rd run April 2011)

 



Run to day. It is hard to see that I swapped L n R, pushed and pulled sub and tilting and raising centre with these differences, must be the room.

 



The uploaded results along with the + 9 db raise on the test volume are extremely different. Could this be a windows 8 thing or am I overlooking something.


REgards


----------



## matty1137




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39180#post_22707878
> 
> 
> Matt
> 
> Share with us the make and model of your speakers and the make and model of your sub
> 
> And also the ARC graph of your R/L/C speakers too
> 
> Stew



I've attached the ARC results for my L/R/LS/RS speakers. I have a 5.2 system. All 5 of my speakers are JBL 3677's, and both of my subwoofers are from Emotiva (Ultra 12). The JBL's are the same ones used in commercial movie theaters. They are amazing!!! Any additional suggestions are always welcome. Thanks!
ARC2.jpg 337k .jpg file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39180#post_22707904
> 
> 
> I spoke too soon since I was listening to music 2.1 ........... my wife came home to tv and dobly 5.1 is messed, the volume levels are way too low, with current solution heavy on centre. I reloaded old solution and sides are louder but higher db to reach normal listening. Now I am really confused as to what happened here with volumes, I may need to boot into windows 7 tomorrow and do more tests. I still am not too sure what Bob means by trims I reloaded defaults and then my settings with no change. The old solution is better than what happed today.
> 
> 
> Regards



Your best bet is likely to give Anthem tech support a call and let them walk you through diagnosing this.


In the interim, make sure you don't have an "temporary" volume trims set -- the one's that are done using the buttons around the arrow keys on the remote.


Do that by going into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue using the Front Panel Display

3) Reload Saved User Settings


Since the "temporary" settings are not saved, this eliminates all of them.


Next make sure that your amps are turning on. If you are using Triggers from the Anthem there may be something screwy in your Triggers set up.


(The Volume Trims I was talking about are the ones Uploaded into Setup > Level Calibration by ARC -- checking to see if anything seems out of whack for any speaker or the sub.)


The best way to confirm that your ARC solution is working for speaker volumes is to run a test track from a calibration disc and check the speaker output with an SPL meter. I recommend the LPCM test tracks from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray.


At an even more basic level, run the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration just to make sure all the speakers are firing properly.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39180#post_22707816
> 
> 
> ^ Yes, but that's the Sub response. For LFE it is a good indication of actual output because all of LFE goes to the Sub, but for redirected bass you also have to look at when the main speakers start SENDING bass to the Sub.
> 
> Just because the Sub is capable of producing good, corrected output up to 120Hz doesn't mean it is going to reach into the main speaker channels and poach on all their bass up there.
> 
> The Sub gets directed bass according to the combination of the main speakers' crossovers and the Room Correction parameters. The Sub's ability to reproduce that directed bass is established by the combination of its own crossover, and the Room Correction parameters. The Sub's Cutoff adjusts how high up ARC attempts to correct the Sub's output, which may be higher than the Sub's Crossover in order to better reproduce higher LFE frequencies. Your Sub Cutoff of 120Hz is not directly relevant to the part played by the Sub's Crossover at 80Hz.
> 
> Anthem has never published the internal details of how ARC functions. So really, you still don't know exactly what's happening because you don't know how the Room Correction processing is functioning.
> 
> And given that, I think you need to have some faith that ARC is getting the basic math correct -- not doubling your bass output.
> 
> --Bob



Okay - Bob , now i makes sense. I coudent understand why the 120hz sub Cut off settings produced more accurate bass , than the 80hz sub Cut off Setting . Thanks for you patient


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39180#post_22708086
> 
> 
> Your best bet is likely to give Anthem tech support a call and let them walk you through diagnosing this.
> 
> In the interim, make sure you don't have an "temporary" volume trims set -- the one's that are done using the buttons around the arrow keys on the remote.
> 
> Do that by going into Setup and:
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 
> 2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue using the Front Panel Display
> 
> 3) Reload Saved User Settings .
> 
> Since the "temporary" settings are not saved, this eliminates all of them.



Yes a search on trims found that exact same solution and as stated above I have done this on todays and again up loading a June 2012. Would this need to be done and then rerun arc if trim was set.


> Quote:
> Next make sure that your amps are turning on. If you are using Triggers from the Anthem there may be something screwy in your Triggers set up.



Trigger working reset with default and amp was on. Also in both solutions.


> Quote:
> (The Volume Trims I was talking about are the ones Uploaded into Setup > Level Calibration by ARC -- checking to see if anything seems out of whack for any speaker or the sub.)



Gave max and min levels above none seem out of wack.


> Quote:
> The best way to confirm that your ARC solution is working for speaker volumes is to run a test track from a calibration disc and check the speaker output with an SPL meter. I recommend the LPCM test tracks from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray.
> 
> At an even more basic level, run the test tones in Setup > Level Calibration just to make sure all the speakers are firing properly.
> 
> --Bob



I have a couple but have not pulled them out.


The volume level set is the key here for me. I know something is wrong with the volume when the spl and quick response vary as never before. If these trims were on when I ran could this be the problem and a rerun will correct. Sorry what are temporary volume trims and where are they in the set up menu.


Regards


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ No, the "temporary" trims are ignored while ARC is setting things up.


If your only concern is the volume level scale shown on the ARC charts then that is likely a bug in the charting, which may indeed be something new in Windows 8.


The key is to play some calibration tracks and see if the Uploaded solution is working correctly.

--Bob


----------



## Shayne2

Hi


I know my sound well enough the uploaded solution today you could barely hear left and right with 5.1 and rears were dead. I will run in windows 7 (same machine) tomorrow and report back. Again I had to increase my volume test level from -6.5 to 2.5 and only got the charts up to 70 (see above). The test sound was so loud I did not want to go louder. USB drivers for 8.


Regards


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I just heard from Nick at Anthem a couple days back that customers do not seem to be running into any problems using ARC with Windows 8, so if it really is a Windows 8 issue, they may need to work with you to figure that out.


For Windows 7 they had a step by step procedure written up to make sure the mic was being accessed correctly and that nothing else in the sound setup in the Windows 7 PC was getting in the way. I don't know if they have that yet for Windows 8.


Also expect that they'll want you to email them your ARC results file (not just screen captures of the charts). They have tools to extract the raw mic data from the results file to see what's actually been recorded during Measurement.


I take it the ARC install you did on the Windows 8 PC was of a fresh download of ARC V3.0.2 from Anthem's web site, right? So you only used your original install CD to copy over the ARC License and ARC mic calibration files?


There was a post here that TrippLite had an updated Windows 8 driver for their Keyspan USA-19HS adapter. I don't know if that driver is bundled now with Windows 8 or whether you have to fetch and install it yourself.

--Bob


----------



## randman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22708482
> 
> 
> ^ I just heard from Nick at Anthem a couple days back that customers do not seem to be running into any problems using ARC with Windows 8, so if it really is a Windows 8 issue, they may need to work with you to figure that out.
> 
> For Windows 7 they had a step by step procedure written up to make sure the mic was being accessed correctly and that nothing else in the sound setup in the Windows 7 PC was getting in the way. I don't know if they have that yet for Windows 8.
> 
> Also expect that they'll want you to email them your ARC results file (not just screen captures of the charts). They have tools to extract the raw mic data from the results file to see what's actually been recorded during Measurement.
> 
> I take it the ARC install you did on the Windows 8 PC was of a fresh download of ARC V3.0.2 from Anthem's web site, right? So you only used your original install CD to copy over the ARC License and ARC mic calibration files?
> 
> There was a post here that TrippLite had an updated Windows 8 driver for their Keyspan USA-19HS adapter. I don't know if that driver is bundled now with Windows 8 or whether you have to fetch and install it yourself.
> 
> --Bob



I just happened to configure my USA-19HS adapter. I downloaded the driver for Wibdows 7 and 8 ( same file that was made available I believe last Sept.). I have Windows 7 though. I was also setting it up for something else and not ARC. But I can confirm that Tripp-Lite has an updates installer that is used for both Windows 7 and 8.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22708482
> 
> 
> ^ I just heard from Nick at Anthem a couple days back that customers do not seem to be running into any problems using ARC with Windows 8, so if it really is a Windows 8 issue, they may need to work with you to figure that out.
> 
> For Windows 7 they had a step by step procedure written up to make sure the mic was being accessed correctly and that nothing else in the sound setup in the Windows 7 PC was getting in the way. I don't know if they have that yet for Windows 8.
> 
> Also expect that they'll want you to email them your ARC results file (not just screen captures of the charts). They have tools to extract the raw mic data from the results file to see what's actually been recorded during Measurement.
> 
> I take it the ARC install you did on the Windows 8 PC was of a fresh download of ARC V3.0.2 from Anthem's web site, right? So you only used your original install CD to copy over the ARC License and ARC mic calibration files?
> 
> There was a post here that TrippLite had an updated Windows 8 driver for their Keyspan USA-19HS adapter. I don't know if that driver is bundled now with Windows 8 or whether you have to fetch and install it yourself.
> 
> --Bob



Yes just the cal files are from CD and the install off anthemns site.


I have a few things to try tomorrow. I run a pci com card and have now installed and will try different drivers. I will try this again in win 8, then the usb to com adapter that came with my arc (have not opened it yet) but will look for the driver update also. Then in windows 7 since this is a dual boot machine right now. I will only need to do quick measurements and see if that matches the spl. I was wondering if this low volume bug could be it and that it did not power on right? Will let you know, it is just funny the difference for the actual tone level as per what is measured with spl and what is being heard by arc.


Thanks again for you input. You are a valuable asset to owners.


Regards


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matty1137*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39180#post_22708078
> 
> 
> I've attached the ARC results for my L/R/LS/RS speakers. I have a 5.2 system. All 5 of my speakers are JBL 3677's, and both of my subwoofers are from Emotiva (Ultra 12). The JBL's are the same ones used in commercial movie theaters. They are amazing!!! Any additional suggestions are always welcome. Thanks!
> ARC2.jpg 337k .jpg file



The charts look good with plenty of HF response. The subs are more than adequate to do a better job than your charts are showing.


Is it possible and *you need to check* that this is not your problem.


There is a Low Pass Filter switch on your rear panel to defeat the internal crossover which happens to go from 50-150Hz just like your ARC charts.

Is it turned off (BYPASS) defeating the internal crossover ?

And do you have the crossover frequency variable control turned all the way up to 150hz ?


----------



## matty1137




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22708830
> 
> 
> The charts look good with plenty of HF response. The subs are more than adequate to do a better job than your charts are showing.
> 
> Is it possible and *you need to check* that this is not your problem.
> 
> There is a Low Pass Filter switch on your rear panel to defeat the internal crossover which happens to go from 50-150Hz just like your ARC charts.
> 
> Is it turned off (BYPASS) defeating the internal crossover ?
> 
> And do you have the crossover frequency variable control turned all the way up to 150hz ?



Hi Stew,


Thanks for the input. I just checked the control panel of my subs. The low pass filter is indeed set to "BYPASS" instead of "ON", and the crossover knob is turned all the way up to 150 Hz.. I also have the "BYPASS CROSSOVER" switch engaged so it is using the Anthem's. Yes, it is weird because I also feel like my subs are more capable. I'll have to figure something out. Thank you again, though.


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22697995
> 
> 
> For the HDMI output from the 83, be sure the video resolution is set explicitly to 720p or higher or you will be limited to 2-channel for high bit rate audio. I.e., don't use Source Direct for SACD.
> 
> Also set SACD Output PCM.
> 
> I don't know what Andrew has in mind. As far as I know there is no issue between the OPPO 83 and the original AVM 50 for playback of SACDs as HDMI 5.1 LPCM 88.2KHz, but it's been a while....
> 
> You could also check with OPPO Tech Support as they use Anthem units for testing, although I don't know if they have an original AVM 50 at this point.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39120#post_22698249
> 
> 
> YOU DID IT!!!!
> 
> I don't know why I didn't come here first. I've been pulling my hair out for YEARS periodically going back and forth with both Anthem and OPPO on this.
> 
> I had video output resolution set to Auto. Once I set it to 1080P - beautiful multi-channel SACD sound.
> 
> Bob Pariseau is officially my favorite person of the year.
> 
> -Ravi



So, as it turns out, I'm a moron. Forgot to pull the analog multichannel. My problem persists. I can get stereo SACD via HDMI, but dead silence when playing a multi-channel layer.

It's set to 1080P, everything on PCM or LPCM in the OPPO. The Anthem is set to digital HDMI audio in, auto digital is off.


Sigh.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22709804
> 
> 
> So, as it turns out, I'm a moron. Forgot to pull the analog multichannel. My problem persists. I can get stereo SACD via HDMI, but dead silence when playing a multi-channel layer.
> 
> It's set to 1080P, everything on PCM or LPCM in the OPPO. The Anthem is set to digital HDMI audio in, auto digital is off.
> 
> Sigh.



Try connecting the OPPO to a diiferent HDMI input port.

Did you say you can get multichannel SACD when you have the OPPO multichannel analog outputs plugged into the Anthem Analog

multichannel inputs ?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39180#post_22706360
> 
> 
> I agree with Obie here completely. Even my old AVM-50's video processing (same as in the old D2) is miles ahead of what my S3 TiVo can do. I go native from TiVo to Anthem via component (because I LOATHE the handshaking issues with HDMI) and have a variety of different settings for different cable pictures (HD, 4x3 SD, SD letterbox, and SD stretch). By tuning the Anthem stretch/zoom/sharpening/etc for each, I get much better quality than when letting the S3 do the scaling/processing.
> 
> Obie, how do you like the 103 compared to the Radiance? One thing I really like about the Lumagen products compared to others is the ability to manage red/green color and tint in addition to blue (I really wish my AVM-50 had that). I added an old VisionDVI (total cost $90 - thank you ebay!) to a basement system centered around a Pioneer Elite RPTV and the ability to address the overscan and red-push have been miraculous.



Ravi - I really haven't had the Radiance or the 103 for that matter long enough to make a definitive judgment. I suspect the Radiance will win out due to all the extra bells and whistles. I bought the Radiance for the CMS and as an "autocal" device, the video processing just happens to come along for the ride. I will say the 103 from an operability perspective out performs the D2, I suspect the Radiance will too. At the moment I have the HDMI output of the D2 disconnected and it may remain that way (maybe I should just get an AVM-40). With two inputs on both the Radiance and 103 I really don't need to put video through the D2 although I lose the D2's OSD.


OK... Obies lame brained idea of the day to add TrueHD and DTS HD decoding to the D2. What if you put an inexpensive receiver between a source and the D2 wouldn't you be able to bitstream to the receiver and the send the PCM out to the Anthem? I know Obies gone off his rocker, but can anyone think of a reason this wouldn't work? Assuming the cheapo receive is decoding correctly their should be no degradation in audio and hopefully it can pass the video unscathed. There is a method to this madness I would be using it will a streamer and most it not all of them no longer decode the HD audio codecs. I may just be over caffeinated this morning... where's that mad scientist icon?


----------



## Shayne2

I was miss informing everyone yesterday indicating the uploaded arc done in windows 8 had the all speaker solution messed up. Cycling of power and alternating of sources and material confirms this. So I was only left with the sudden discrepancy of the true arc tone volume not being correctly represented by the arc software charts in windows 8.


Below are the results of my test. The tone was set with the radio shack spl to my known -6.5 db setting and remained constant for all quick measurements. I ran all at a baud of 9600.

 


I finally hooked up my com card sync to 115200 baud and successfully ran it in windows 7. The chart volumes appear to differ running arc software in windows 8 and shows non-accurate results.


The results are so different that I may suggest that someone running arc software in a windows 8 environment should not try to set the arc response charts to obtain 75 db since this may be pushing your speakers.


I have 10 pt arc results for windows 8 test level set to +2.5 db and another .arc 10 pt results for windows 7 test level set to -6.5 db (9 db diff). The resulting windows 8 charts that are +9.0 db higher are consistently lower. Another 2 db lower which makes the total around the 10 db range.


This is my set up however you would think it could be reproduced easily if common to the OS.


Regards


Edit: first impression is win 7 solution upload gives me my volume back were the windows 8 solution I had to increase to obtain same levels. Just me and me knowing my sound right now and I have had enough arc for a while, a bit of Blood sweat and tears in 2.1 now. I have both saved (user and installer) and will compare later.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Get those Windows 8 test results to Anthem. Looks like you've found a bug in the ARC app running on Windows 8. If it is JUST the chart formatting that's no big deal. But if it reflects the solution math then that's pretty serious.


One way to tell would be to build a Win 7 and Win 8 solution separately (same Level settings in the processor), and see if you get the same volume from the result when you play stuff despite the 10dB difference in the charts.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Obie_fl,

Your combo could work up to 5.1 96KHz. You might introduce lip sync problems. Bugs in the cheap receiver could also be a problem. HDMI handshake will take longer.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22709804
> 
> 
> So, as it turns out, I'm a moron. Forgot to pull the analog multichannel. My problem persists. I can get stereo SACD via HDMI, but dead silence when playing a multi-channel layer.
> 
> It's set to 1080P, everything on PCM or LPCM in the OPPO. The Anthem is set to digital HDMI audio in, auto digital is off.
> 
> 
> Sigh.



OK, back to basics then:


1) What firmware do you have in your AVM 50? Press Select once on the AVM 50 remote to see it in the display. It should be V1.33


2) What firmware do you have in your OPPO 83? Check Setup > Device Setup > Firmware Information. The Main firmware number should end 0117.


3) When playing a 5.1 SACD -- only silence -- press Select multiple times on the AVM 50 remote and list what it shows in each of the displays that come up for video and audio input and output.


4) When playing a 5.1 SACD -- only silence -- press Mode twice on the AVM 50 remote and list what it shows for the two displays


5) When playing a 5.1 SACD -- only silence -- press THX three times on the AVM 50 remote and list what it shows for the three displays



Now try this:


Power off the AVM 50. Disconnect the HDMI output cable to to your display.


Power up the AVM 50. Start a 5.1 SACD playing in the OPPO. Do you get audio now?


If not, press the Resolution button on the 83 remote, use the Up/Down arrows and the front panel display in the 83 to select 1080i output resolution and press Enter. Do you get audio now?



When connecting the 83 to the AVM 50, are you using the HDMI cable that came with the 83? If using a different HDMI cable, try replacing it with one that is 6 feet (2 meters long) -- not shorter. Make sure the cable is marketed as a "high speed cable", i.e., "for 1080p". There should be nothing else in that cable path -- no "port savers", no HDMI switches, nothing.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22709998
> 
> 
> 
> OK... Obies lame brained idea of the day to add TrueHD and DTS HD decoding to the D2. What if you put an inexpensive receiver between a source and the D2 wouldn't you be able to bitstream to the receiver and the send the PCM out to the Anthem? I know Obies gone off his rocker, but can anyone think of a reason this wouldn't work? Assuming the cheapo receive is decoding correctly their should be no degradation in audio and hopefully it can pass the video unscathed. There is a method to this madness I would be using it will a streamer and most it not all of them no longer decode the HD audio codecs. I may just be over caffeinated this morning... where's that mad scientist icon?



What advantage is there over the OPPO doing the decoding and sending LPCM to the D2 ?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22709884
> 
> 
> Try connecting the OPPO to a diiferent HDMI input port.
> 
> Did you say you can get multichannel SACD when you have the OPPO multichannel analog outputs plugged into the Anthem Analog
> 
> multichannel inputs ?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22710358
> 
> 
> OK, back to basics then:
> 
> 1) What firmware do you have in your AVM 50? Press Select once on the AVM 50 remote to see it in the display. It should be V1.33
> 
> 2) What firmware do you have in your OPPO 83? Check Setup > Device Setup > Firmware Information. The Main firmware number should end 0117.
> 
> 3) When playing a 5.1 SACD -- only silence -- press Select multiple times on the AVM 50 remote and list what it shows in each of the displays that come up for video and audio input and output.
> 
> 4) When playing a 5.1 SACD -- only silence -- press Mode twice on the AVM 50 remote and list what it shows for the two displays
> 
> 5) When playing a 5.1 SACD -- only silence -- press THX three times on the AVM 50 remote and list what it shows for the three displays
> 
> Now try this:
> 
> Power off the AVM 50. Disconnect the HDMI output cable to to your display.
> 
> Power up the AVM 50. Start a 5.1 SACD playing in the OPPO. Do you get audio now?
> 
> If not, press the Resolution button on the 83 remote, use the Up/Down arrows and the front panel display in the 83 to select 1080i output resolution and press Enter. Do you get audio now?
> 
> When connecting the 83 to the AVM 50, are you using the HDMI cable that came with the 83? If using a different HDMI cable, try replacing it with one that is 6 feet (2 meters long) -- not shorter. Make sure the cable is marketed as a "high speed cable", i.e., "for 1080p". There should be nothing else in that cable path -- no "port savers", no HDMI switches, nothing.
> 
> --Bob



Also is the disc marked multichannel or hybrid ? And some SACD multi channel disks do not decode the multi channel layer properly. Have you tried a different disc ?


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22710156
> 
> 
> ^ Get those Windows 8 test results to Anthem. Looks like you've found a bug in the ARC app running on Windows 8. If it is JUST the chart formatting that's no big deal. But if it reflects the solution math then that's pretty serious.
> 
> One way to tell would be to build a Win 7 and Win 8 solution separately (same Level settings in the processor), and see if you get the same volume from the result when you play stuff despite the 10dB difference in the charts.
> 
> --Bob



As I said I have win 8 +2.5 saved as installer and win 7 -6.5 saved in users so I will start there. I kept telling my wife last night I lost my volume, she said no, but no punch as right now at lower volume, sometimes think I could disconnect tweeters and she wouldn't catch it







. I would think anthem will pick up this post here and I will not be emailing. If they need my arcs I have them but that should not be required because I bet it can be reproduced. Never did get a response to my request for beta firmware access anyways.


Regards


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22710395
> 
> 
> What advantage is there over the OPPO doing the decoding and sending LPCM to the D2 ?



You missed the part about the dedicated streamer without decoding. If Oppo can get the streaming up to snuff it would be a nonissue but there are still quite a few shortcomings compared to some of the dedicated streamers. I got burnt on the iso support on the 93 I could see Oppo being forced to take away SMB support on the 103.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22710589
> 
> 
> As I said I have win 8 +2.5 saved as installer and win 7 -6.5 saved in users so I will start there. I kept telling my wife last night I lost my volume, she said no, but no punch as right now at lower volume, sometimes think I could disconnect tweeters and she wouldn't catch it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would think anthem will pick up this post here and I will not be emailing. If they need my arcs I have them but that should not be required because I bet it can be reproduced. Never did get a response to my request for beta firmware access anyways.
> 
> Regards



I wouldn't assume they will see it here.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39200_50#post_22710395
> 
> 
> What advantage is there over the OPPO doing the decoding and sending LPCM to the D2 ?


If you are talking about the D2 (old version) then it cannot decode the Hi Def audio track like DTS-HD and Dolby TrueHD. If you use Auto for audio depending on which Oppo you have it may try to send DTS-core to the D2. This why I usually prefer to tell the Oppo to send LPCM so I know it is doing the decoding and this also let you get the secondary audio (commentary and other) if needed.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22710678
> 
> 
> If you are talking about the D2 (old version) then it cannot decode the Hi Def audio track like DTS-HD and Dolby TrueHD. If you use Auto for audio depending on which Oppo you have it may try to send DTS-core to the D2. This why I usually prefer to tell the Oppo to send LPCM so I know it is doing the decoding and this also let you get the secondary audio (commentary and other) if needed.



I missed where obie was talking about using a streamer that did not do HD audio decoding.

Was in your town recently at the G campus.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22710658
> 
> 
> I wouldn't assume they will see it here.



I posted here with Bob and PM Nick. I believe that arc is now on less quality Asian made receivers in which the speakers may not be comparable to what you would fine from these nuts. The word should get out to be careful.

*The results are so different that I may suggest that someone running arc software in a windows 8 environment should not try to set the arc response charts to obtain 75 db since this may be pushing your speakers.*


Regards


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22710649
> 
> 
> You missed the part about the dedicated streamer without decoding.
> 
> If Oppo can get the streaming up to snuff it would be a nonissue but there are still quite a few shortcomings compared to some of the dedicated streamers. I got burnt on the iso support on the 93 I could see Oppo being forced to take away SMB support on the 103.



Yes, I did not see the streamer word buried in you statement or the part about the SMB protocol. I have to read more carefully.

What's wrong with the OPPO 103/105 streaming ?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22710756
> 
> 
> I posted here with Bob and PM Nick. I believe that arc is now on less quality Asian made receivers in which the speakers may not be comparable to what you would fine from these nuts. The word should get out to be careful.
> *The results are so different that I may suggest that someone running arc software in a windows 8 environment should not try to set the arc response charts to obtain 75 db since this may be pushing your speakers.*
> 
> Regards



Not True


Anthem is a quality Canadian built unit. ARC is copyright protected software only on Anthem products.

Any manufacturer could be subject to bugs developing when Microsoft engineers a new OS.

The audio volume problem you are experiencing could very well be in the dual boot system you are using.

Lets see what the software engineers report before you beat up Anthem for a problem they did not create.


I believe Anthem reported previously that the audio levels did not have to be precise as ARC used them as a starting point and set the system internally.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22710784
> 
> 
> Not True
> 
> Anthem is a quality Canadian built unit. ARC is copyright protected software only on Anthem products.
> 
> Any manufacturer could be subject to bugs developing when Microsoft engineers a new OS.
> 
> The audio volume problem you are experiencing could very well be in the dual boot system you are using.
> 
> Lets see what the software engineers report before you beat up Anthem for a problem they did not create.
> 
> I believe Anthem reported previously that the audio levels did not have to be precise as ARC used them as a starting point and set the system internally.



What I said is completely true and being a Northern Ontario Canadian I know what anthem and paradigm are. I also know that the a/v receivers are not made in Canada (as the d2 and avm 50) but are Asian made (via anthem rep). I am beating up no one and you miss the point totally. I just expressed an observation that I have had and wanted others to be careful with the new M$ product until the software engineers can look at it.


A dual boot system will cause this? Please explain since this would be interesting.


Regards


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22710762
> 
> 
> Yes, I did not see the streamer word buried in you statement or the part about the SMB protocol. I have to read more carefully.
> 
> What's wrong with the OPPO 103/105 streaming ?



No direct ISO support (Don't want to have to covert everything)
*F*ear*U*ncertainty*D*oubt over SMB

No NFS support.

No decent Jukebox

Very limited IP control at this point


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22646270
> 
> 
> Thanks "thestewman". My problem is sound, and I am trying to optimize that. If you have not read my earlier posts, this is my equipment:
> 
> Oppo 95
> 
> Sony 5400ES (CD, SACD)
> 
> D2v
> 
> P5 from Anthem
> 
> All Paradigm Speakers, S-8's, S-2's, C-3, Sub25; basically a 5.1 arrangement.
> 
> I know when you say no sub under Analog Direct, but if you do Audio Processing setting in Oppo and say ON to Sub, set speakers to small, and set a crossover setting, then I think Oppo will engage the sub, correct me if I am wrong, or maybe you mean to say to be pure analog say OFF to sub, and set speakers to large and just play pure Analog Direct.
> 
> In my Sony 5400ES there is no choice; when you go analog, no crossover, etc., but it has Left and Right channels only as Analog outs.
> 
> Now as of SACD's and DVD-A's also I can and would like to use Anlg DIR, therefore I have the Oppo Analog Output connected to the D2v 6-ch analog inputs, but I am saying ON to sub, and applying crossover, if I say OFF to Sub under Oppo Audio Processing Speaker Configuration, then I will lose the sub channel from the SACD's, DVD-A's also, so I think you have to say ON to sub and apply crossover, and that sort of defaults to saying Small for speakers. Please help and advice. Thanks.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22645679
> 
> 
> Great idea to have a dedicated Stereo setup using Analog Direct. Just for clarification you do know no sub woofer output is available or used with Analog Direct..
> 
> To use your sub woofer with a stereo setup you have to use Analog Dig which also turns on ARC.
> 
> For critical stereo listening with good audiophile sources anything but Analog Direct is detrimental to the sound.
> 
> To maximize the system for stereo you should be using the two stereo RCA output connections on the OPPO into the Analog inputs of the D2v.
> 
> For SACD Stereo listening you can set the OPPO on PCM and use the HDMI connection from the OPPO to D2v. For Multi channel use the OPPO 7.1 analog outputs to the D2v multi channel analog inputs.
> 
> When you have everything setup and working properly the way you like let me know and I will turn you on to playing the ultimate audiophile sound DSD.
> 
> DSD is amazing. Nothing like it and far exceeding Hi Rez 192/24 downloads or upsampling.



"thestewman" In the post above so said;


"When you have everything setup and working properly the way you like let me know and I will turn you on to playing the ultimate audiophile sound DSD.

DSD is amazing. Nothing like it and far exceeding Hi Rez 192/24 downloads or upsampling."


What did you mean; what DSD sources/settings you were talking about. I have everything set up now.


Thanks.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39090#post_22690953
> 
> 
> Thanks Stew ...
> 
> 
> Actually for Paradigm, since you only has one sub, my technique will work great but i don't think you've utilized the pink noise technique correctly. Instead of listening to the maximum bass, i would listen for the minimum bass instead. I would do the following:
> 
> 
> *1*.  Reverse the polarity of the left speaker by swapping its leads.
> 
> *2*.  Start playing your pink noise source into the left speaker and sub. You will want to disconnect all other speakers temporarily for this test.
> 
> *3*.  Go into Speaker Config ->Bass Management-Movie (or Music) -> Sub Phase.
> 
> *4*.  With the RS SPL meter fixed at your listening position(and having set it to SLOW speed and C-weighting), note the SPL reading when the phase is 0.
> 
> *5*.  Then start changing the phase in 5 degree and not the SPL reading. Continue on till you reach 180 degrees and look for the phase degree number that gives you the absolute minimum SPL reading. Basically, you'll have 36 phase angles to cycle through with their respective SPL readings.
> 
> *6*.  Pick the phase angle that gave the minimum SPL reading and set that as the angle for the Anthem unit. Don't be suprised if you get a range of phase angles that give equivalent minimum SPL numbers. This is common but record them anyways.
> 
> *7*.  Its instructive set the Sub Polarity to 180 degrees and repeat steps 3 thru 6 again to find out what the optimum phase angle would be. Again, don't be suprised to have a range of phase angles that give minimum SPL readings.
> 
> 
> Hopefully, the angles an steps 6 and 7 would overlap somewhat (which would be ideal). Then pick the phase number in the middle of the overlap and set the Sub Polarity back to Normal.
> 
> 
> If there's no overlap whatsoever, oh well, just set the Sub Polarity to Normal and use the phase number you got in step 6.
> 
> *8*.  Reverse the speaker leads to their normal positions(Black Wire on Black Terminal, Red Wire on Red Terminal). Also remember to re-connect the rest of your speaker system !
> 
> 
> Don't forget this simple step as i forgot once to reverse the connections back to normal and couldn't understand why i was getting this 'phasey' sound from my system. It gave me headaches for a couple of hours as i thought i had done something wrong in my setup. So i went to check the integrity of the connections in my entire HT system ...only to find after a while that my speaker wires were reversed as indicated in step #1 !
> 
> 
> Best of luck,
> 
> David !
> 
> *PS*
> 
> Sorry for being so wordy, but since english _*ain't*_ my first language, i often find myself maybe over-describing somethings. Bob Pariseau would simply state all the above in just 2 or 3 sentences tops! And this would include his deep tutorials about all thing audio !



"dmusoke"

I tried to set the phase from my sub to the LF as you suggested, and I used the pink noise between FM stations, but db rating on m SPL meter just did not change anywhere between 0-180, so I am thinking that my noise source is not correct. What would you suggest as the noise source to do this.


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22710589
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22710156
> 
> 
> ^ Get those Windows 8 test results to Anthem. Looks like you've found a bug in the ARC app running on Windows 8. If it is JUST the chart formatting that's no big deal. But if it reflects the solution math then that's pretty serious.
> 
> One way to tell would be to build a Win 7 and Win 8 solution separately (same Level settings in the processor), and see if you get the same volume from the result when you play stuff despite the 10dB difference in the charts.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said I have win 8 +2.5 saved as installer and win 7 -6.5 saved in users so I will start there. I kept telling my wife last night I lost my volume, she said no, but no punch as right now at lower volume, sometimes think I could disconnect tweeters and she wouldn't catch it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would think anthem will pick up this post here and I will not be emailing. If they need my arcs I have them but that should not be required because I bet it can be reproduced. Never did get a response to my request for beta firmware access anyways.
> 
> 
> Regards
Click to expand...


Anthem Tech Support does not monitor this thread. It may be there is something peculiar about your Windows 8 setup, but whatever the case may be, to get them involved you'll need to get in touch with them directly.

--Bob


----------



## Shayne2

Hi


I will wait till this surfaces and will not go through the tech support at this stage since windows 8 is too new and there is bound to be conflicts with lots of apps. I have my solution redone in windows 7 and uploaded and have the work around for now. Will wait and see if it is just my set up







. I have not ran exe with compatibility mode set yet either.


Thanks again Bob.


Regards


----------



## Bob Pariseau

So who else here has already tried a setup with ARC running on Windows 8? Any similar sorts of problems to what SHAYNE2 is reporting?

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

I am working with ARC and my subwoofer phases. I have 5 subs. 3 in the front, 2 in the rear. I ran ARC in two configurations


:  

This one with all subs phase 0.


Andd this one with the rears subs at 180 / fronts 0. I am not sure what I am looking at here or which seems better....any input?

 


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The first one is clearly better. Focus on the uncorrected output (red Measured curve) from the set of Subs.


But why is your solution rolling off above 80Hz for the Subs? Did you change ARC's choice of Targets? You should be able to get a Sub Cutoff of 120Hz with this Measurement (and Flat at the low frequency end).

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

Thanks I don't know why it's doing that. I haven't changed anything.( that I know of) How do I fix that ? I did notice that it was doing that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

In your first configuration, change the Cutoff for Subwoofer to 120Hz in ARC's Targets window. Accept that change, and then re-Calculate to see how you Sub solution looks.


In the Advanced section at the bottom of the Targets window, you can also change the Sub to "Flat" as an additional step.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

Thanks. Can I set it flat even though my subs have no built in protection ?


Setting it manually to 120 won't make anything wonky since ARC didn't do it itself?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22709804
> 
> 
> So, as it turns out, I'm a moron. Forgot to pull the analog multichannel. My problem persists. I can get stereo SACD via HDMI, but dead silence when playing a multi-channel layer.
> 
> It's set to 1080P, everything on PCM or LPCM in the OPPO. The Anthem is set to digital HDMI audio in, auto digital is off.
> 
> Sigh.



Doh!


It's not an HDMI 1.1 vs 1.2 issue is it? I can't remember what 1.2 added but I thought it had something to do with multi-ch SACD. Although if you're going LPCM it shouldn't matter in my mind.


Try a lower resolution like 1080i in case it's a cable bandwidth issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22711397
> 
> 
> Thanks. Can I set it flat even though my subs have no built in protection ?
> 
> 
> Setting it manually to 120 won't make anything wonky since ARC didn't do it itself?



No, if you are not sure about the sub's protection, leave the low end as is. Don't use "Flat". The low end looks good enough in that first configuration anyway.


When you set 120Hz, check the quality of the solution for the Sub. How close is the green Calculated curve to the black dashed Target curve? Then check the bass end of each of the main speakers. If the chart results look OK, then ARC isn't having any problems doing 120Hz for you.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22711642
> 
> 
> No, if you are not sure about the sub's protection, leave the low end as is. Don't use "Flat". The low end looks good enough in that first configuration anyway.
> 
> When you set 120Hz, check the quality of the solution for the Sub. How close is the green Calculated curve to the black dashed Target curve? Then check the bass end of each of the main speakers. If the chart results look OK, then ARC isn't having any problems doing 120Hz for you.
> 
> --Bob



Ok. I plugged in 120 and the Target and Calculated lines are almost exactly the same. That's what I am looking for, right? Why wouldn't ARC have just done this? Should I be looking for a deficiency somewhere?


I have HSU ULS15s and they go low but HSU told me that there is no built in protection with them.

Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Post the revised charts, and also capture and post your Targets window.


Also check on the Sub CROSSOVER -- Uploaded by ARC into Setup > Speaker Configuration.


Let's see what you've got now.


My guess is ARC saw that one dip in your Sub combo's output near 80Hz and thought that was the start of the natural roll off of the subs.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22711729
> 
> 
> Post the revised charts, and also capture and post your Targets window.
> 
> Also check on the Sub CROSSOVER -- Uploaded by ARC into Setup > Speaker Configuration.
> 
> Let's see what you've got now.
> 
> My guess is ARC saw that one dip in your Sub combo's output near 80Hz and thought that was the start of the natural roll off of the subs.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. I just lookedat the sub response with my SMS-1 ( not integrated - just use for measurement) and I don't see that dip - from the sweet spot anyway. The naturla response is nice and smooth with a house curve I like.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The ARC charts are an unweighted average of all the mic positions. As such the chart won't reflect any single mic position precisely.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

True. It did help me to determine where that dip was though. I eliminated that placement measurement , reran ARC and now my sub cutoff is 120. I can live with that I suppose.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22711042
> "dmusoke"
> 
> I tried to set the phase from my sub to the LF as you suggested, and I used the pink noise between FM stations, but db rating on m SPL meter just did not change anywhere between 0-180, so I am thinking that my noise source is not correct. What would you suggest as the noise source to do this.
> 
> 
> Thanks.


 

Paradigm:

 

 

That's quite strange i'd say...

 

1. Did you set the SPL meter to read accurately in the 70 - 80dB regions? In my radioshck one, i set the dial at the 70dB setting. I'm aslo assuming you set it to SLOW and C-weighted? Also make sure you have fresh new batteries in your meter.

 

2. I use true pink noise sources i download free from the net but maybe FM noise maybe ok. I use this program at http://www.esseraudio.com/test-tone-generator-windows-software-generate-test-signal-sine-pink-noise-crest-factor.html  for my tests. I believe its shareware and you may if you want to use the fancier features it has...

 

3. Did you reverse the polarity of the LF speaker on its terminals and set the sub phase knob to zero in described in my procedure?

 

Please try it again and post or PM me to help iron out the details







!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22711173
> 
> 
> I am working with ARC and my subwoofer phases. I have 5 subs. 3 in the front, 2 in the rear. I ran ARC in two configurations
> 
> 
> :
> 
> This one with all subs phase 0.
> 
> 
> Andd this one with the rears subs at 180 / fronts 0. I am not sure what I am looking at here or which seems better....any input?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


 

C'mon Wingnut ...5 subs??? You are giving some of us a serious case of jealousy an insecurity







!


----------



## dmusoke


A little insight into the inner workings of ARC according to the 50V review posted above ...

.

.

.

Those gripes aside, the AVM 50v 3D looked to be a high-quality jack of all trades, and I greatly anticipated exploring two of its greatest attributes: ARC, and Anthem’s implementation of the Sigma Designs VXP video processor. If you’ve heard of Anthem, you’ve probably heard of ARC, which is widely considered one of the top room-correction softwares in the industry. Used to its full potential, ARC can measure up to seven channels, plus a subwoofer, at bit rates as high as 192kHz, for up to ten independent listening positions. The measurements are taken using the supplied software, a calibration microphone of very high quality, and a mike stand and cable, and can take up to an hour to complete, depending on how many speakers you have. With all the data recorded and crunched, ARC then applies corrections for crossover frequency, room gain, time alignment, as well as correcting for both room modes and anti-modes for each channel measured.

 

To help me understand ARC a bit better, I enlisted the help of Nick Platsis, Anthem’s product manager. He began by explaining that ARC uses a narrower Infinite Impulse Response (IIR) filter than most other room-correction softwares. (Most other EQ softwares are limited by the number of points they can accommodate.) This higher resolution allows for greater accuracy, and therefore lower noise during correction. In addition to these filters are custom limitation filters that work in the background to ensure that the correction curves don’t demand from your amplifiers anything they can’t handle. Platsis then mentioned that Anthem uses two DSP engines rather than one, due to the huge number of calculations per second required. Typically, the first engine acts as lead, performing common tasks such as decoding codecs. The second engine goes to work when ARC is applied to the most demanding situations, such as when DTS-HD MA or Dolby TrueHD are being decoded even as, simultaneously, Dolby Volume, bass management, and delay corrections are being performed. Furthermore, Anthem lets you store two separate ARC configurations, in case you want to use one for music and another for movies.

 

As impressed as I was with the engineering behind ARC, and the results (which I’ll get to shortly), I was equally beguiled by the AVM 50v 3D’s prowess with video. Anthem uses the latest-generation Sigma Designs VXP digital image processor to handle both deinterlacing and scaling of all incoming video signals (except 3D). In addition to using 12-bit processing, the VXP engine offers many user-adjustable features, such as mosquito-noise reduction, block-artifact noise reduction, detail enhancement, and gamma adjustment, all of which are accessed and adjusted through an easy-to-use OSD separate from the AVM 50v’s basic setup OSD.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ And the neighbors are likely wondering whether they need to sacrifice a virgin to the Volcano God or some such...

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke


^^^







 ...and the Grande Finale:

 

*Side-by-Side*

Comparing the AVM 50v 3D to my reference Classé SSP-800, I couldn’t help but wonder about the origins of the two processors. The Classé performs as if it were originally conceived as a two-channel preamp that was later modified to function as a home-theater preamplifier-processor. The Anthem exudes the exact opposite character, excelling with superior connectivity, flexibility, room correction, and benchmark video processing. My listening confirmed this observation -- the two processors were radically different in their approaches to the sounds of music and films. With music, whether in analog, analog DSP, or bypass mode, or fed a bitstream signal from my Oppo, the Anthem’s sound was slightly less polished, with less dynamic range, softer bass, a warmer midrange, and less detailed highs. The Classé sounded more neutral, with a delicate, airier, more detailed top end and better bass control. That said, AVM 50v 3D deserves to be commended for what it could achieve at a price $3000 lower than the Classé’s. One could easily use the AVM 50v 3D as a reference two-channel preamp.

 

*With movies, and with ARC engaged, the Anthem greatly narrowed the performance gap, consistently treating me to a more coherent, 360-degree surround soundstage*. The AVM 50v 3D allowed sounds to appear from everywhere around the room. With respect to video performance, there was no contest -- the Classé doesn’t process video signals, it merely switches them -- so I compared the AVM 50v 3D to my Oppo BDP-95, which includes Marvell’s very-well-respected Kyoto-G2 video processor and second-generation Qdeo technology. *Until inserting the Anthem in my system, I’d thought the Oppo was about as good as it gets at video deinterlacing and scaling, but I was wrong. As good as the Oppo is, the Anthem was better, offering the best picture quality I’ve ever seen -- not only in my own room, but from any video-scaling device I’ve seen anywhere. Black levels were deeper, jaggies were further reduced, edges were crisper with both standard- and high-definition material, upscaled DVDs were as close to true HD as I’ve seen, and there was a notable increase in detail retrieval and overall sharpness*.

 

*Wrapping up*

It had been some time since I’d reviewed any home-theater gear, and I didn’t realize how much I missed it until I’d spent some time with Anthem’s new AVM 50v 3D A/V processor. *Fully configured, it generated the best picture and the most holistic soundstage I’ve seen or heard in my room*. *The levels of performance, engineering, and outright value that Anthem offers for $6500 scream "Benchmark product!" I’m going to have a hard time reacclimating to my Classé-Oppo combo. Highly recommended!*

 

 

Congrats to the AVM50v-3D  for giving the Classe SSP800, a product that costs $3000 more than the 50v, a really serious run for its money







.


----------



## airboyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22711301
> 
> 
> ^ The first one is clearly better. Focus on the uncorrected output (red Measured curve) from the set of Subs.
> 
> But why is your solution rolling off above 80Hz for the Subs? Did you change ARC's choice of Targets? You should be able to get a Sub Cutoff of 120Hz with this Measurement (and Flat at the low frequency end).
> 
> --Bob



Okay, so I've got a few questions this week. I added two more speakers and a new sub, so I've been working overtime placement and calibration.


First question revolves around this.


ARC set the suggested automated target to 120Hz and it loaded 60hz for music and 65Hz for movie into the D2.


I changed it to Flat in advanced and made sure the phase and polarity were reset. Bypass LFE xover is set to yes.


I can't move my new sub right now due to lack of space. It's a Seaton F2 and something around 60Hz was a possibility due to location.


Am I getting a similar problem due to my dip around 60Hz?

Should I change the Bass Management in the D2 to match the ARC targets or does that change something else? I tired changing and swore I heard crackling sounds in the surrounds...


----------



## dmusoke


Airboyd ...not Bob P... here but the 60Hz could be caused by 2 things ... A Null in your listening position due to the room OR a phase cancellation due to the 2 subs you have. Since you can't move the Seaton(those things are big and heavy), i would try to do the following to help eliminate it, if possible.

 

1.  Go to live measure and set it to generate and display the subwoofer plots.

 

2.  Set the phase knob of one sub to zero and begin to change the phase of the other sub from 0 to 180 and observe the Live Measure plots to find the phase knob position where that 60Hz is eliminated.

 

Once found, then re-ARC and re-upload the results.

 

- David


----------



## airboyd

Here's my odd question of the day. I was was playing with ARC in my laptop as I had to wait to test my set-up.


So the top image is the fronts set to the basic auto settings in the ARC. 60Hz crossover and 5Khz.


I noticed my measured was relatively flat. So, I got to thinking, what happens if I flatten out the entire curve?


I put flat for crossover and 20Khz as the upper limit into ARC and got the bottom charts.


I got to reading " The Subjective and Objective Evaluation of Room Correction Products " after that and can't really decide.


Anthem suggests not messing with anything above 5Khz because of the directionality and the mic etc...


The entire point of ARC is to match all the crossover points for the room and all the speakers but does trying to create a flat response for the room introduce more problems than trying to let ARC do it's thing?


I've been searching through hundreds of posts in this thread and not really seen this discussion.


How much do you attempt to tweak a specific speaker to sound you like before you mess with the entire ARC processing which is trying to correct the entire system and room?


Note: I believe, the dip in the right around 40Hz is from the large open doorway near the right speaker.


----------



## airboyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22712245
> 
> 
> Airboyd ...not Bob P... here but the 60Hz could be caused by 2 things ... A Null in your listening position due to the room OR a phase cancellation due to the 2 subs you have. Since you can't move the Seaton(those things are big and heavy), i would try to do the following to help eliminate it, if possible.
> 
> 
> 1.  Go to live measure and set it to generate and display the subwoofer plots.
> 
> 
> 2.  Set the phase knob of one sub to zero and begin to change the phase of the other sub from 0 to 180 and observe the Live Measure plots to find the phase knob position where that 60Hz is eliminated.
> 
> 
> Once found, then re-ARC and re-upload the results.
> 
> 
> - David



I'm working on the 60Hz and am pretty sure it will go away when I move it, but I'm room restricted right now so it'll have to wait. The only place I have left is behind the couch in the back, less than ideal, but probably better.


I'm more interested in knowing whether the ARC setting of 120 should also be in the D2 instead of 60Hz?


I know the ARC settings and the D2 numbers don't always match, but I really wondered in this case.


It's like when you set all the speakers to flat, ARC says it's got a crossover target around 80Hz but sets 5Hz in the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Absolutely not. And don't go changing the settings ARC Uploads into the Setup menu or you will "break" the solution.


As I've posted way too often in the past few days, the Subwoofer Cutoff (ARC Targets window) and Crossover (Uploaded by ARC into Setup > Speaker Configuration) are two DIFFERENT THINGS.


ARC sets the sub's Crossover to work best with the bass management -- i.e., bass being steered to the sub from the other speaker channels. If your other speakers all have good extension into lower bass then their Crossovers will be set lower, and, typically, the Sub's Crossover will ALSO be set lower as part of matching the transition. The Crossovers need not match -- typically they won't -- but typically they'll be "similar".


The Sub Cutoff on the other hand is most easily thought of as the equivalent of Max EQ Frequency for the Sub. Not the same thing at all as Crossover. See?

--Bob


----------



## airboyd

Also, for the casual lurker, I learned some great lessons.


I've been reading this thread for years and seeing all the great hints.


Well...I skipped the most important one. That's the one where you save your settings and erase all the temp settings.


There were all kinds of things like LFE -10.0 in SAT, Movie had inverted phase and music had in phase for the sub and other settings completely out of whack.


I recommend taking the time to do the extras steps that will save you later when you don't understand why there isn't enough bass!


----------



## airboyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22712383
> 
> 
> ^ Absolutely not. And don't go changing the settings ARC Uploads into the Setup menu or you will "break" the solution.
> 
> As I've posted way too often in the past few days, the Subwoofer Cutoff (ARC Targets window) and Crossover (Uploaded by ARC into Setup > Speaker Configuration) are two DIFFERENT THINGS.
> 
> ARC sets the sub's Crossover to work best with the bass management -- i.e., bass being steered to the sub from the other speaker channels. If your other speakers all have good extension into lower bass then their Crossovers will be set lower, and, typically, the Sub's Crossover will ALSO be set lower as part of matching the transition. The Crossovers need not match -- typically they won't -- but typically they'll be "similar".
> 
> The Sub Cutoff on the other hand is most easily thought of as the equivalent of Max EQ Frequency for the Sub. Not the same thing at all as Crossover. See?
> 
> --Bob



Phew! I did read it right then.







I was 99.9% positive that you don't change the settings because I knew they weren't the same thing, but that pop-up says to check the D2 to make sure the settings are there...started to make me second guess myself...


This sub is much more powerful than my old sub and I've never had such a hard time adding this and the extra 2 speakers. I should have done one set at a time.


Live and learn.


Thanks Bob!


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22710871
> 
> 
> What I said is completely true and being a Northern Ontario Canadian I know what anthem and paradigm are. I also know that the a/v receivers are not made in Canada (as the d2 and avm 50) but are Asian made (via anthem rep). I am beating up no one and you miss the point totally. I just expressed an observation that I have had and wanted others to be careful with the new M$ product until the software engineers can look at it.
> 
> A dual boot system will cause this? Please explain since this would be interesting.
> 
> Regards



I have been to the Anthem/Paradigm facility in the last 60 days and, while there may be components to the D2v and 50v that are made in Asia, I can assure you all of the internals, including the circuit boards, are made in their Mississauga facility. I held a D2v/50v circuit board in my hand, and watched several go through the multi-point soldering machine.


----------



## bohai

Offset Normalization


I get a message that states I am +2 db I notice a little delay in lips and sound. How do I take this back to 0db?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22712403
> 
> 
> Phew! I did read it right then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was 99.9% positive that you don't change the settings because I knew they weren't the same thing, but that pop-up says to check the D2 to make sure the settings are there...started to make me second guess myself...
> 
> This sub is much more powerful than my old sub and I've never had such a hard time adding this and the extra 2 speakers. I should have done one set at a time.
> 
> Live and learn.
> 
> Thanks Bob!



In the second set of measurements you have and are forcing your R/L speakers, unknown about the others as you only posted the fronts

to reproduce the low frequencies you want the sub to produce.

Unless the fronts might have built in powered woofers you should have set all as small in the speaker setup all your speakers and not checked them as full range in the targets so they

pass all bass and LFE to the subs.

Check that you selected 1 as the number of subs

It has been stated over and over by audio experts that a flat room response never sounds good.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22710871
> 
> 
> What I said is completely true and being a Northern Ontario Canadian I know what anthem and paradigm are. I also know that the a/v receivers are not made in Canada (as the d2 and avm 50) but are Asian made (via anthem rep). I am beating up no one and you miss the point totally. I just expressed an observation that I have had and wanted others to be careful with the new M$ product until the software engineers can look at it.
> 
> A dual boot system will cause this? Please explain since this would be interesting.
> 
> Regards



You are correct about the Anthem MX receivers being assembled in China. Does that make them bad ? Bad performers ? I don't think so.

How else would you explain the OPPO which is 100% Chinese. Built and designed there.

At this point the dual boot system may or may not be OK. Sure the two OSs can be booted off the same MB and maybe off the same hard drive too.

And they run.

On other forums they are discussing how this is affecting the existing Bios, the USB drivers and the built in audio on the MB.

Some are hearing and having strange audio effects with dual boot.


----------



## airboyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22712689
> 
> 
> In the second set of measurements you have and are forcing your R/L speakers, unknown about the others as you only posted the fronts
> 
> to reproduce the low frequencies you want the sub to produce.
> 
> Unless the fronts might have built in powered woofers you should have set all as small in the speaker setup all your speakers and not checked them as full range in the targets so they
> 
> pass all bass and LFE to the subs.
> 
> Check that you selected 1 as the number of subs
> 
> It has been stated over and over by audio experts that a flat room response never sounds good.



Yup, I've read what the experts say and I've tried just my mains both ways. They sound pretty good to the family flat, but I like the sound of my speakers and the boost in the bass works well on them. My amp and speakers can take it, but it doesn't mean they should...


I think you'd agree most people that come to this thread are looking to tweak their system. My discussion point was more along the lines of how much can you reasonably tweak it before you really start to mess up what the ARC does? I know what Anthem says but I also know my speakers sounded good flat.


Merely a light discussion question on tweaking the ARC.


One article I read said the more work you do tweaking the ARC the less useful it becomes. There's a lot of tweakers here.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22712628
> 
> 
> I have been to the Anthem/Paradigm facility in the last 60 days and, while there may be components to the D2v and 50v that are made in Asia, I can assure you all of the internals, including the circuit boards, are made in their Mississauga facility. I held a D2v/50v circuit board in my hand, and watched several go through the multi-point soldering machine.



I never said different. What I said was the new lower priced a/v receiver line is being assembled in Asia. You should re-read my post.


Regards


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22712707
> 
> 
> You are correct about the Anthem MX receivers being assembled in China. Does that make them bad ? Bad performers ? I don't think so.
> 
> How else would you explain the OPPO which is 100% Chinese. Built and designed there.
> 
> At this point the dual boot system may or may not be OK. Sure the two OSs can be booted off the same MB and maybe off the same hard drive too.
> 
> And they run.
> 
> On other forums they are discussing how this is affecting the existing Bios, the USB drivers and the built in audio on the MB.
> 
> Some are hearing and having strange audio effects with dual boot.



What I said is I think these also may have an arc solution and they may not have the same quality speakers that we have connected to our amps and therefore boosting the test tone to try to obtain 75 db may not be a good thing in a windows 8 environment at this early stage. I was not trying to beat up or belittle anyone. Again re-read my posts.


Sorry you are saying the usb driver from one OS to the other are effecting windows 8. Not only that the motherboard even my bios settings (tweaks and all) are effected because I have 1s and 0s from 2 different operating systems coded to 2 different ssd at the time of post. Please point me in the right direction this one I need to read. Believe what you like, but I will not get rid of win 7 as a second boot, when it is the only clean solution for arc, until the dual boot win 8 runs it right, that is just common sense.


Regards


Edit: OK I emailed tech support my test results. We will see where it goes.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22712639
> 
> 
> Offset Normalization
> 
> 
> I get a message that states I am +2 db I notice a little delay in lips and sound. How do I take this back to 0db?



Dialog Normalization (set by metadata in the audio Bitstream) has nothing to do with audio/video sync.


It has to do with volume.



If you believe you have A/V sync error the first thing to do is make sure you are checking for that using content which is known to be correct to begin with! Far more often than most people realize, commercial content has sync error inherent in the content -- typically varying scene by scene. There's no point in delving into why this happens -- there are lots of possible reasons -- but the point is that it's simply not worth the effort to try chasing errors built into the content.


To check your sync, I recommend Disney's "WOW World of Wonder", Blu-ray. They have an excellent A/V Sync test chart on that one.


If you find you really do have sync error -- something that's not in the content in the first place -- then that could be due to a bug in your Source device or to excessive video processing time in your Display. Sometimes the best fix is to get a firmware update for Source or Display or to turn off some of the video processing "enhancements" in the Display.


If Audio is EARLY (audio ahead of video), and you decide correction in the D2v is the best thing to do, then Setup > Source Setup for each Source has a line where you can add audio sync delay. You can also adjust this for the currently selected Source by pressing and holding the "8" button on the remote until the current sync setting is displayed. Use Left/Right arrow to select a digit to change and Up/Down arrow to change that digit.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Ignore this and just read ^


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22712639
> 
> 
> Offset Normalization
> 
> I get a message that states I am +2 db I notice a little delay in lips and sound. How do I take this back to 0db?



Offset Normalization is included as meta data in the Dolby stream. It is a level control so you don't get blown out of your seat by loud commercials etc. I don't believe there is a way to turn it off although I'd have to double check on that. Roger or Bob could give much better details. In any case it should not affect timing (lip synch). Have you tried adjusting the lip-synch delay (hold down the display/8 button)?

ETA Damn that Bob guy types fast.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22712005
> 
> 
> Paradigm:
> 
> 
> 
> That's quite strange i'd say...
> 
> 
> 1. Did you set the SPL meter to read accurately in the 70 - 80dB regions? In my radioshck one, i set the dial at the 70dB setting. I'm aslo assuming you set it to SLOW and C-weighted? Also make sure you have fresh new batteries in your meter.
> 
> 
> 2. I use true pink noise sources i download free from the net but maybe FM noise maybe ok. I use this program at http://www.esseraudio.com/test-tone-generator-windows-software-generate-test-signal-sine-pink-noise-crest-factor.html  for my tests. I believe its shareware and you may if you want to use the fancier features it has...
> 
> 
> 3. Did you reverse the polarity of the LF speaker on its terminals and set the sub phase knob to zero in described in my procedure?
> 
> 
> Please try it again and post or PM me to help iron out the details !


"dmusoke"


Thanks for your response, I will try to download the test noises and re-run the phase alignment as suggested. I will not get a chance to do this for next 3-4 weeks due to holidays and travel, I will be in touch once I get back to this. Thanks again.


Yes I did things you asked me to do. SLOW response, and C-weighted.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22713222
> 
> 
> I never said different. What I said was the new lower priced a/v receiver line is being assembled in Asia. You should re-read my post.
> 
> Regards



You're right, mis-read your original post. Thanks for clarifying.


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39210#post_22710358
> 
> 
> OK, back to basics then:
> 
> 1) What firmware do you have in your AVM 50? Press Select once on the AVM 50 remote to see it in the display. It should be V1.33
> 
> 2) What firmware do you have in your OPPO 83? Check Setup > Device Setup > Firmware Information. The Main firmware number should end 0117.
> 
> 3) When playing a 5.1 SACD -- only silence -- press Select multiple times on the AVM 50 remote and list what it shows in each of the displays that come up for video and audio input and output.
> 
> 4) When playing a 5.1 SACD -- only silence -- press Mode twice on the AVM 50 remote and list what it shows for the two displays
> 
> 5) When playing a 5.1 SACD -- only silence -- press THX three times on the AVM 50 remote and list what it shows for the three displays
> 
> Now try this:
> 
> Power off the AVM 50. Disconnect the HDMI output cable to to your display.
> 
> Power up the AVM 50. Start a 5.1 SACD playing in the OPPO. Do you get audio now?
> 
> If not, press the Resolution button on the 83 remote, use the Up/Down arrows and the front panel display in the 83 to select 1080i output resolution and press Enter. Do you get audio now?
> 
> When connecting the 83 to the AVM 50, are you using the HDMI cable that came with the 83? If using a different HDMI cable, try replacing it with one that is 6 feet (2 meters long) -- not shorter. Make sure the cable is marketed as a "high speed cable", i.e., "for 1080p". There should be nothing else in that cable path -- no "port savers", no HDMI switches, nothing.
> 
> --Bob



1) 1.47f - finally corrected some sound issues with SACDs I was having before (crackles).

2) 0117

3) Video Input 1920x1080p/59.94 CP

Digital No signal

Input Format:

COPY PROTECTION Dig Rec Out Muted

Video Out Config 1 1920x1080p59.94

Audio Output 96khz

Output L R Format:

4) Mode for 2 Channel Input No signal

SACD Digital 1080p -35 dB

5) 2 Ch input thx mode THX Off

THX Reequalization off: when THX is off

SACD Digital 1080p -35 dB


Disconnecting HDMI to the TV did not return sound.

Reducing OPPO resolution to 1080i did not return sound.

I THINK I'm using the OPPO HDMI cable, but am not certain (I have a huge number of cables). Will have to check this later.


Any thoughts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I think you should re-install firmware V1.33 in the Anthem and try with that.


But first check on the cable in use from the 83.


The status information says that the digital audio input from the 83 is muted. Evidently there's been a handshake failure -- most likely with respect to Copy Protection.


In general, firmware V1.33 is more robust for HDMI. And as is always true with HDMI issues, the first thing to check is the cabling.


Next time you try this, also check the front panel display on the 83. When you are playing that SACD (no audio), the SACD light should be lit and the PCM light should also be lit.


Also check Setup > Source Setup again for the SACD Source and confirm that Audio-In is Dig-HDMI, and that Auto Dig is NO.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22714851
> 
> 
> 1) 1.47f - finally corrected some sound issues with SACDs I was having before (crackles).
> 
> 2) 0117
> 
> 3) Video Input 1920x1080p/59.94 CP
> 
> Digital No signal
> 
> Input Format:
> *COPY PROTECTION Dig Rec Out Muted*
> 
> Video Out Config 1 1920x1080p59.94
> 
> Audio Output 96khz
> 
> Output L R Format:
> 
> 4) Mode for 2 Channel Input No signal
> 
> SACD Digital 1080p -35 dB
> 
> 5) 2 Ch input thx mode THX Off
> 
> THX Reequalization off: when THX is off
> 
> SACD Digital 1080p -35 dB
> 
> Disconnecting HDMI to the TV did not return sound.
> 
> Reducing OPPO resolution to 1080i did not return sound.
> 
> I THINK I'm using the OPPO HDMI cable, but am not certain (I have a huge number of cables). Will have to check this later.
> 
> Any thoughts?



I know you have probably looked at this numerous times before but, Please double check



Do you have SACD Priority: Set as Multi-Channel – To play the multi-channel surround audio layer


Do you have HDMI Audio: Set as LPCM – Digital audio output via HDMI


MOST IMPORTANT


Do you have a *coaxial or optical cable* connected between the Anthem and the OPPO ? *If so remove it.*


What source are you using to play your SACDs ?


What MODE have you preselected for that source in setup ?


Let me know


----------



## boyce89976

Ran ARC for the first time today, and ARC set my LCR and Rear speaker X-overs to 60hz and my Sub to 120hz for both Movie and Music configs. I set Sub to "flat" in advanced (Paradigm Sub 15). It sounds REALLY good, but maybe a bit bass-heavy for my taste... particularly with Cable/DVR HD content. The Music setting sounds fantastic on 2 channel music. My question is: Can I adjust the X-overs via ARC's "Targets" window to 80hz for Movie Config and upload the new calculation, or will that screw things up?


Also, what do you think of these ARC charts. Looks to me like I have some resonance issues below 100hz across the LCR's and Rears. I'm very happy with the sub measurement... It was PBK'd several months ago when placed in its final position.

 
 


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Your charts are only showing Measured and Target curves. You need to do a Calculate and capture the charts with the Calculated curve before we can see what ARC has actually been able to accomplish.


Also, capture and post your Targets window.


Yes, you can make changes (judiciously selected) within Targets, and then re-Calculate. If you think the result looks better you can Upload that. No need to re-Measure.


I suspect you may want to reduce the Room Gain Target values, but we need the real charts and Targets window to evaluate that. Reducing Room Gain will reduce bass a bit.


Also, your solution is about 10dB above the normally recommended value of 75dB. Reduce Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level before your next Measurement run.


The excess bass from cable programs is probably in the content. Rather than changing the ARC solution you might want to apply a temporary adjustment using the buttons on the remote while listening to cable.


Also make sure you have Dolby Volume set to OFF in each Source.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22716305
> 
> 
> Ran ARC for the first time today, and ARC set my LCR and Rear speaker X-overs to 60hz and my Sub to 120hz for both Movie and Music configs. I set Sub to "flat" in advanced (Paradigm Sub 15). It sounds REALLY good, but maybe a bit bass-heavy for my taste... particularly with Cable/DVR HD content. The Music setting sounds fantastic on 2 channel music. My question is: Can I adjust the X-overs via ARC's "Targets" window to 80hz for Movie Config and upload the new calculation, or will that screw things up?
> 
> Also, what do you think of these ARC charts. Looks to me like I have some resonance issues below 100hz across the LCR's and Rears. I'm very happy with the sub measurement... It was PBK'd several months ago when placed in its final position.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Your charts are missing the calculated curve and only show the measured curve and the suggested curve. The missing curve by default is the Green line.

You may not have not gotten the adjusted ARC file loaded into your AVM50v. Or you erased the Calulated curve after uploading and later reopening the ARC program.

You should probably reload the file you saved in ARC, recalculate and then upload the results to your Anthem AVM50v

It would be helpful to also post the targets.


In looking at your charts the sound level is too high. Your LRC and surrounds are at about 85db and your sub is at 90db. They are all supposed to be 75db.

Maybe resetting the levels and a remeasure would be best


Temporarily if it sounds bass heavy to you I would not change what ARC has done . Use your remote and turn the sub gain down a few db to tailor the sound.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22716373
> 
> 
> ^ Your charts are only showing Measured and Target curves. You need to do a Calculate and capture the charts with the Calculated curve before we can see what ARC has actually been able to accomplish.
> 
> Also, capture and post your Targets window.
> 
> Yes, you can make changes (judiciously selected) within Targets, and then re-Calculate. If you think the result looks better you can Upload that. No need to re-Measure.
> 
> I suspect you may want to reduce the Room Gain Target values, but we need the real charts and Targets window to evaluate that. Reducing Room Gain will reduce bass a bit.
> 
> Also, your solution is about 10dB above the normally recommended value of 75dB. Reduce Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level before your next Measurement run.
> 
> The excess bass from cable programs is probably in the content. Rather than changing the ARC solution you might want to apply a temporary adjustment using the buttons on the remote while listening to cable.
> 
> Also make sure you have Dolby Volume set to OFF in each Source.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob and Stew. I did a speaker level calibration in the setup menu using my iPad and an SPL app... should probably invest in a real SPL meter!










Here are the files with the calibrated curves... I was playing with the x-over settings earlier and didn't realize it defeated the calibrated curve. Also, I was playing around with Dolby volume and it appears the overly oppressive bass was coming from that. When I turned it off, the low-end was reduced dramatically. I may still move the x-overs to 80hz for the Movie Config.

 
 


I am still having the issue with the "digital noise" when switching to Xbox... it's identifying the signal as 6-channel audio... cycling through the inputs usually resolves the problem and resets it to DD 5.1, but it doesn't sound like it's good for my speakers if I don't mute in time.


Thanks again.


----------



## boyce89976

Here's the Targets Window. The only thing I changed in this window since running ARC is setting the sub to "Flat".

 


Thanks!


----------



## boyce89976

Just looked at Level Calibration and the sub level calibration was set +9.5db for both Movie and Music. I don't recall moving those settings, but must have. Reducing it to 0.0db has returned everything to a more neutral sound. I'll get a real spl meter tomorrow and redo the whole thing.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22716460
> 
> 
> Here's the Targets Window. The only thing I changed in this window since running ARC is setting the sub to "Flat".
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Looks good to me. I wouldn't change a thing. The RLC blend nicely into your sub and the sub is working splendidly.

You have good HiFreq response and plenty of room gain.


Sit back and enjoy it


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22716448
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob and Stew. I did a speaker level calibration in the setup menu using my iPad and an SPL app... should probably invest in a real SPL meter!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the files with the calibrated curves... I was playing with the x-over settings earlier and didn't realize it defeated the calibrated curve. Also, I was playing around with Dolby volume and it appears the overly oppressive bass was coming from that. When I turned it off, the low-end was reduced dramatically. I may still move the x-overs to 80hz for the Movie Config.
> 
> 
> 
> I am still having the issue with the "digital noise" when switching to Xbox... it's identifying the signal as 6-channel audio... cycling through the inputs usually resolves the problem and resets it to DD 5.1, but it doesn't sound like it's good for my speakers if I don't mute in time.
> 
> Thanks again.



Go to Source setup. For the source you are using to input the XBox signal set the muting to MAX


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22717354
> 
> 
> Go to Source setup. For the source you are using to input the XBox signal set the muting to MAX



Got a response from Anthem tech support today to try Firmware V3.09c? I'm not even sure what Firmware I have, but the unit is brand new... special ordered from Anthem less than three weeks ago.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22716494
> 
> 
> Just looked at Level Calibration and the sub level calibration was set +9.5db for both Movie and Music. I don't recall moving those settings, but must have. Reducing it to 0.0db has returned everything to a more neutral sound. I'll get a real spl meter tomorrow and redo the whole thing.



Re-ran ARC today and ARC is setting my sub levels +9.5db. Does this mean my sub calibration level is too low to start with?


----------



## boyce89976

I have v3.09 according to the front panel display... have asked Anthem to clarify if there is a difference between my Firmware and v3.09c


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22717354
> 
> 
> Go to Source setup. For the source you are using to input the XBox signal set the muting to MAX





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22720546
> 
> 
> I have v3.09 according to the front panel display... have asked Anthem to clarify if there is a difference between my Firmware and v3.09c



Have you tried my source muting level fix above ?


There are several improvements after 3.09 which you have and the later 3.09c


+9.5db is way to much difference. There are problems with your ARC setup.

You need to redo your ARC level adjustments and setup and remeasure, but after you load the 3.09c firmware


Did you get a *real* sound level meter ? And if yes did you set it to C level, Slow response ?


----------



## boyce89976

Hi Stew, Yes I have set the mute level to max, but I'm still concerned about the noise as it shouldn't do that. For some reason it's not recognizing the Xbox audio stream correctly.


Yeah, the +9.5db is strange, but I'm assuming it's because my sub level to too low to start with. I haven't had a chance to get to RS to get a real meter yet, so that's definitely part of the problem.


Would be nice if ARC set parameters such as distance, delay and level for you... but I guess that's also part of the fun, eh?


----------



## rsinclair

@boyce89976 I'm getting the exact same problem with my Xbox, I've posted to this thread previously about it.


When powering on the Xbox I get the weird/loud repeating static and have to switch away from the Xbox input and then back again. This started happening when I updated to the latest firmware a couple of months ago, in hopes that it would solve my black screen / Shocking Pink screen I'd get when switching inputs. Anthem support suggested that you turn OFF Dolby Volume on the Xbox input, but it didn't solve it for me (something related to Dolby Volume might make sense, since I didn't have this issue before and Dolby Volume was one of the "big" features added to later firmware.)


Apart from the sound/video quality, I'm increasingly frustrated with my d2v. This is a flagship AV processor that costs more than some people spend on a car, and it exhibits problems that even a $299 AV receiver from a big box store doesn't have. If I wasn't outside my Warranty period, I'd probably return it and buy something with fewer problems and better support. It's a little embarrassing that the best support for this product comes from a non-paid community member on an internet forum. And my dealer decided not to sell d2vs to any more of his customers based on the bad experience I've had.


-R


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22713236
> 
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Edit: OK I emailed tech support my test results. We will see where it goes.



Online Anthem tech support appears to be a black hole for me, this is my second contact to them and not even an acknowledgement of receipt, again. Months ago I asked for access to beta and received nothing, not even go stuff yourself. Is this the usual trend with this online service? You would think acknowledgement would be a couple of days would you not?


Regards


----------



## Carlton Bale




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsinclair*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22720972
> 
> 
> @boyce89976 I'm getting the exact same problem with my Xbox, I've posted to this thread previously about it.
> 
> When powering on the Xbox I get the weird/loud repeating static and have to switch away from the Xbox input and then back again. This started happening when I updated to the latest firmware a couple of months ago, in hopes that it would solve my black screen / Shocking Pink screen I'd get when switching inputs. Anthem support suggested that you turn OFF Dolby Volume on the Xbox input, but it didn't solve it for me (something related to Dolby Volume might make sense, since I didn't have this issue before and Dolby Volume was one of the "big" features added to later firmware.)
> 
> Apart from the sound/video quality, I'm increasingly frustrated with my d2v. This is a flagship AV processor that costs more than some people spend on a car, and it exhibits problems that even a $299 AV receiver from a big box store doesn't have. If I wasn't outside my Warranty period, I'd probably return it and buy something with fewer problems and better support. It's a little embarrassing that the best support for this product comes from a non-paid community member on an internet forum. And my dealer decided not to sell d2vs to any more of his customers based on the bad experience I've had.
> 
> -R



I agree. I wish my D2V would reliably sync to all of my HDMI sources. Or any of them. I frequently power it off and back on to get things to resync. I think Anthem tech support is pretty good in comparison, but I'd much rather I didn't need it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22721708
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39240#post_22713236
> 
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Edit: OK I emailed tech support my test results. We will see where it goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Online Anthem tech support appears to be a black hole for me, this is my second contact to them and not even an acknowledgement of receipt, again. Months ago I asked for access to beta and received nothing, not even go stuff yourself. Is this the usual trend with this online service? You would think acknowledgement would be a couple of days would you not?
> 
> 
> Regards
Click to expand...


This is not normal. Check your SPAM filter and Junk Mail folder to see if email from Anthem may have gotten blocked.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22722127
> 
> 
> This is not normal. Check your SPAM filter and Junk Mail folder to see if email from Anthem may have gotten blocked.
> 
> --Bob



I have similar experience with Anthem Support, but I must say that this Forum has been an asset, and whatever I have done to setup my system is because of help from here.


Bob and others are just phenomenally knowledgeable and supportive, it is almost unreal. Thank you all.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22722127
> 
> 
> This is not normal. Check your SPAM filter and Junk Mail folder to see if email from Anthem may have gotten blocked.
> 
> --Bob



Done before post.


Regards


----------



## airboyd

My original charts with my new Submersive F2 and 2 new Rear speakers, which I did not have before

 
 


I had to put the sub in the back of the room as there is no front or side space other than the one creating that dip.


I used the ARC live quick measure to try and find the most 'normal' looking line.


I started in the rear right of the room and slowly slide it (120 lbs) across the back until I got the graph below.


It's the only one that didn't have any weird dips, peaks or shelfs but, I've got that dip down near 20Hz?


It existed along the entire back wall. Both the sub and the rears are behind the couch and have a similar dip, is that possibly the reason?


The sub ended up off the back wall between rear left and surround left.


----------



## wingnut4772

Is there any disadvantage at all in decoding blu rays as LPCM vs bitstream ?


----------



## AVfile

^ depends on your player. Some of the older Mediatek-based players (eg: Oppo BDP83) have issues with distortion on 7.1 tracks and can't decode 5.1 ES tracks. Now that the DTS-HD speaker-level issues are worked out in the latest Anthem firmware it would be better to bitstream if you have an older player like this.


Also, this is anecdotal but some users here have reported better, more dynamic sound when bitstreaming to the Anthem on certain DTS-HD titles. In theory the bitstreams can be authored with additional metadata that some decoders may simply ignore, while Anthem implements them to their fullest ability.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22720538
> 
> 
> Re-ran ARC today and ARC is setting my sub levels +9.5db. Does this mean my sub calibration level is too low to start with?



Yes, just turn up your sub a bit next time you run ARC and re-measure.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22722686
> 
> 
> Done before post.
> 
> Regards



I would e-mail them directly, do not trust web submission forms.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22723492
> 
> 
> I would e-mail them directly, do not trust web submission forms.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22721708
> 
> 
> Online Anthem tech support appears to be a black hole for me, this is my second contact to them and not even an acknowledgement of receipt, again. Months ago I asked for access to beta and received nothing, not even go stuff yourself. Is this the usual trend with this online service? You would think acknowledgement would be a couple of days would you not?
> 
> Regards





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22722686
> 
> 
> Done before post.
> 
> Regards



Having been put into Anthem's Blackhole also in the past here is my answer.


Anthem Electronics Inc.

205 Annagem Blvd.

Mississauga, ON L5T 2V1

Canada


Customer Service:

Phone: (905) 362-0958

Fax: (905) 696-9479

Someone does answer after a wait


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22723651
> 
> 
> Having been put into Anthem's Blackhole also in the past here is my answer.
> 
> Anthem Electronics Inc.
> 
> 205 Annagem Blvd.
> 
> Mississauga, ON L5T 2V1
> 
> Canada
> 
> Customer Service:
> 
> Phone: (905) 362-0958
> 
> Fax: (905) 696-9479
> 
> Someone does answer after a wait



Strange... I have used the online tech support form twice in the past week and have gotten an answer both times within 48 hours.


----------



## boyce89976

Here are my latest charts... Sub level increased at the sub prior to the re-measure. ARC adjusted the level -2db in level calibration.


After the measurement, sub was set to "flat" in targets window, and EQ range was set to max freq of 10khz to flatten the peaks in response for the right front and right surround between 8khz - 12khz.


Anything else I should consider with these? It sounds REALLY good now, but some room treatment and bass traps will go a long way to taming some high frequency decay issues and standing wave issues.


Thanks,

boyce


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22723492
> 
> 
> I would e-mail them directly, do not trust web submission forms.



[email protected]?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22724149
> 
> 
> Strange... I have used the online tech support form twice in the past week and have gotten an answer both times within 48 hours.



You must be blessed. Kinda confirms seen and ignored.


I was thinking of installing a windows 7 vm in windows 8 and running arc thru vm just as a test if it is usb-com interface or the OS itself. Curious if it even possible to interface that way.


Regards


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22724265
> 
> 
> [email protected]?
> 
> You must be blessed. Kinda confirms seen and ignored.
> 
> I was thinking of installing a windows 7 vm in windows 8 and running arc thru vm just as a test if it is usb-com interface or the OS itself. Curious if it even possible to interface that way.
> 
> Regards



Maybe you should send Nick and Andrew some Christmas cookies!










Sorry to hear that you're not having any luck getting a response. My experience has been that they are very responsive.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22724285
> 
> 
> Maybe you should send Nick and Andrew some Christmas cookies!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear that you're not having any luck getting a response. My experience has been that they are very responsive.



That's your secret .... It is Christmas time and I have patience, it is not the end of the world or anything it was just one of those humms


Regards


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22724178
> 
> 
> Here are my latest charts... Sub level increased at the sub prior to the re-measure. ARC adjusted the level -2db in level calibration.
> 
> After the measurement, sub was set to "flat" in targets window, and EQ range was set to max freq of 10khz to flatten the peaks in response for the right front and right surround between 8khz - 12khz.
> 
> Anything else I should consider with these? It sounds REALLY good now, but some room treatment and bass traps will go a long way to taming some high frequency decay issues and standing wave issues.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> boyce



I'd just put up my feet and listen. Charts look very good.

John


----------



## xMEATx

^^ What sub(s) do you use? Charts looks good for sure.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22724480
> 
> 
> I'd just put up my feet and listen. Charts look very good.
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22724501
> 
> 
> ^^ What sub(s) do you use? Charts looks good for sure.



Thanks John!


Thanks xMEATx, I use one Paradigm Sub 15. Since applying ARC (after PBK, which was done some time ago) and raising the sub to the proper level, I can truly say it's a phenomenal difference from where it was. I'm getting articulate, musical bass, with enough impact that you can FEEL the kick drum on certain music types. I'm very happy!


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22724572
> 
> 
> Thanks John!
> 
> Thanks xMEATx, I use one Paradigm Sub 15. Since applying ARC (after PBK, which was done some time ago) and raising the sub to the proper level, I can truly say it's a phenomenal difference from where it was. I'm getting articulate, musical bass, with enough impact that you can FEEL the kick drum on certain music types. I'm very happy!



Now put some LFE movies in and enjoy your hard work.

John


----------



## paradigm25

Under ARC Targets window, there is check box in front of each speaker which says Full Range X-Over, what it is and why it is not checked or should not be checked,


Thanks.


----------



## boyce89976

^ I'm sure Stew or Bob will chime in (and correct me if necessary), but I believe checking it sends full range signals to that set of speakers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22725085
> 
> 
> Under ARC Targets window, there is check box in front of each speaker which says Full Range X-Over, what it is and why it is not checked or should not be checked,
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Full Range turns off Crossover processing (bass stearing) from that speaker-pair to the Sub. My recommendation is that you never set Full Range except for LF/RF in a configuration that HAS NO Subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## avsforumsdsd

Pardon my ignorance, but I wanted to make sure I have this straight before I pull the trigger. My dealer only has a D1 to demo. I know that I like the sound that it produces.


I have purchased, but not yet installed (it arrived an hour ago), a Toshiba HD-XA1 player. I was resigned to playing the audio through the analog inputs of my B&K AVR307, replacing my DVD-A player. I planned to wait until HDMI matured and receivers and pre-amps upgraded to HDMA 1.3 and added the advanced audio codecs to their arsenals.


Now, I have read that the D2 "handles" everything except SACD through its HDMI 1.1 connection. Does "handle" mean that I will get the full benefit of DD+ and DTS-HD over eight channels and Dolby True HD over two? Maybe I don't need to wait...


Thanks for any help you can provide.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *avsforumsdsd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22725937
> 
> 
> Pardon my ignorance, but I wanted to make sure I have this straight before I pull the trigger. My dealer only has a D1 to demo. I know that I like the sound that it produces.
> 
> I have purchased, but not yet installed (it arrived an hour ago), a Toshiba HD-XA1 player. I was resigned to playing the audio through the analog inputs of my B&K AVR307, replacing my DVD-A player. I planned to wait until HDMI matured and receivers and pre-amps upgraded to HDMA 1.3 and added the advanced audio codecs to their arsenals.
> 
> Now, I have read that the D2 "handles" everything except SACD through its HDMI 1.1 connection. Does "handle" mean that I will get the full benefit of DD+ and DTS-HD over eight channels and Dolby True HD over two? Maybe I don't need to wait...
> 
> Thanks for any help you can provide.



The D2 will accept all of these including SACD if the player decodes them and sends them as LPCM. This is common for players. It will not accept 7.1 but only 5.1 and processing can be used to generate the rear channels. The D2v will accept and decode all these at 7.1 except the SACD which still needs to be sent as LPCM. The D2 is also limited to 96K input while the D2v will accept 192K. The D2v 3d is now using HDMI 1.4 although the numbering version system should not be used anymore.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

AVSFORUMDSD,

Not quite. The D2 must be paired with a player that decodes the new audio Bitstream formats and SACD into LPCM.


The D2 can accept HDMI LPCM up to 5.1 channels 96KHz. It can raise 5.1 channel input to 7.1 speaker output, but it can not accept 7.1 channel input. Any decoding player will be able to take 7.1 tracks from Blu-ray and decode and down-mix them to 5.1 to send to the D2. The D2 can NOT accept the un-decoded, high bit-rate Bitstream formats from Blu-ray (DTS-HD MA and TrueHD). It does accept the older, lossy Bitstream formats found on SD-DVD (DTS and DD).


The newer D2v can accept HDMI LPCM up to 7.1 channels 192KHz. It can also accept the newer, high bit-rate Bitstream formats (DTS-HD MA and TrueHD) and decode those itself -- i.e., you don't have to have the player do the decoding. However it still does not accept HDMI DSD, so for SACD playback you will need a player that can decode the DSD format on the SACD disc into LPCM. Similarly, if you want to play HDCD discs (CD music discs with extra dynamic range encoded in), you'll need a player that can decode those to LPCM as well, otherwise it will play like a "normal" CD.

--Bob


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22716249
> 
> 
> I know you have probably looked at this numerous times before but, Please double check
> 
> Do you have SACD Priority: Set as Multi-Channel – To play the multi-channel surround audio layer
> 
> Do you have HDMI Audio: Set as LPCM – Digital audio output via HDMI
> 
> MOST IMPORTANT
> 
> Do you have a *coaxial or optical cable* connected between the Anthem and the OPPO ? *If so remove it.*
> 
> What source are you using to play your SACDs ?
> 
> What MODE have you preselected for that source in setup ?
> 
> Let me know



SACD is set for the Multichannel layer.

HDMI Audio is set to LPCM.

No coax or optical digital connection - just HDMI, the analog 5.1, and a network cable.

Does the source matter? I've tried it on one of the DVD sources as well as the 6-channel. Since you can completely configure them, I didn't think it mattered. Either way, set to HDMI audio, Auto Dig NO, neither works with multichannel SACD, both work fine with stereo SACD.

I found and installed the original 6ft OPPO HDMI cable. No change. The OPPO is definitely showing it's reading the multichannel layer and outputting by PCM on the front panel as well as the OSD.


I'm afraid I'm going to have to drop back to firmware v1.33.

Does anyone know if all saved settings survive a firmware change? I'd hate to have to redo the whole setup...


Thanks everyone for all the help.


-Ravi


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22726022
> 
> 
> The D2 will accept all of these including SACD if the player decodes them and sends them as LPCM. This is common for players. It will not accept 7.1 but only 5.1 and processing can be used to generate the rear channels. The D2v will accept and decode all these at 7.1 except the SACD which still needs to be sent as LPCM. The D2 is also limited to 96K input while the D2v will accept 192K. The D2v 3d is now using HDMI 1.4 although the numbering version system should not be used anymore.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22726028
> 
> 
> AVSFORUMDSD,
> 
> Not quite. The D2 must be paired with a player that decodes the new audio Bitstream formats and SACD into LPCM.
> 
> The D2 can accept HDMI LPCM up to 5.1 channels 96KHz. It can raise 5.1 channel input to 7.1 speaker output, but it can not accept 7.1 channel input. Any decoding player will be able to take 7.1 tracks from Blu-ray and decode and down-mix them to 5.1 to send to the D2. The D2 can NOT accept the un-decoded, high bit-rate Bitstream formats from Blu-ray (DTS-HD MA and TrueHD). It does accept the older, lossy Bitstream formats found on SD-DVD (DTS and DD).
> 
> The newer D2v can accept HDMI LPCM up to 7.1 channels 192KHz. It can also accept the newer, high bit-rate Bitstream formats (DTS-HD MA and TrueHD) and decode those itself -- i.e., you don't have to have the player do the decoding. However it still does not accept HDMI DSD, so for SACD playback you will need a player that can decode the DSD format on the SACD disc into LPCM. Similarly, if you want to play HDCD discs (CD music discs with extra dynamic range encoded in), you'll need a player that can decode those to LPCM as well, otherwise it will play like a "normal" CD.
> 
> --Bob



WAIT !! Whoa !


He is talking about a *D1* not a D2.

Bob, make him aware of any differences between a D1 and a D2 as I am not well versed on the D1

And also the D1 *cannot* be upgraded to a D2


And, he is talking about a Toshiba HD-XA1 HD-DVD Player. It cannot play BluRay. It cannot play SACD and has only (2 channel); DTS and DTS-HD decoding with 5.1 *analog* audio

output not digital or HDMI


And it only has 720p / 1081i video


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22726513
> 
> 
> SACD is set for the Multichannel layer.
> 
> HDMI Audio is set to LPCM.
> 
> No coax or optical digital connection - just HDMI, the analog 5.1, and a network cable.
> 
> Does the source matter? I've tried it on one of the DVD sources as well as the 6-channel. Since you can completely configure them, I didn't think it mattered. Either way, set to HDMI audio, Auto Dig NO, neither works with multichannel SACD, both work fine with stereo SACD.
> 
> I found and installed the original 6ft OPPO HDMI cable. No change. The OPPO is definitely showing it's reading the multichannel layer and outputting by PCM on the front panel as well as the OSD.
> 
> I'm afraid I'm going to have to drop back to firmware v1.33.
> 
> Does anyone know if all saved settings survive a firmware change? I'd hate to have to redo the whole setup...
> 
> Thanks everyone for all the help.
> 
> -Ravi



Save user settings in the setup menu and you should be good to go. After firmware, restore user settings.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22726513
> 
> 
> SACD is set for the Multichannel layer.
> 
> HDMI Audio is set to LPCM.
> 
> No coax or optical digital connection - just HDMI, the analog 5.1, and a network cable.
> 
> Does the source matter? I've tried it on one of the DVD sources as well as the 6-channel. Since you can completely configure them, I didn't think it mattered. Either way, set to HDMI audio, Auto Dig NO, neither works with multichannel SACD, both work fine with stereo SACD.
> 
> I found and installed the original 6ft OPPO HDMI cable. No change. The OPPO is definitely showing it's reading the multichannel layer and outputting by PCM on the front panel as well as the OSD.
> 
> I'm afraid I'm going to have to drop back to firmware v1.33.
> 
> Does anyone know if all saved settings survive a firmware change? I'd hate to have to redo the whole setup...
> 
> Thanks everyone for all the help.
> 
> -Ravi



A coaxial or optical connection may trigger DRM as no pure digital output of a SACD is allowed.

The 6-channel is used only for analog input so you should be using a DVD source setup for multi channel SACD.

I still believe you have an error somewhere in your setup


I am currently 3000 miles from my D2v in Barbados so I can not easily see how I set it up so i am recalling everything from memory


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22727756
> 
> 
> WAIT !! Whoa !
> 
> He is talking about a *D1* not a D2.
> 
> Bob, make him aware of any differences between a D1 and a D2 as I am not well versed on the D1
> 
> And also the D1 *cannot* be upgraded to a D2
> 
> And, he is talking about a Toshiba HD-XA1 HD-DVD Player. It cannot play BluRay. It cannot play SACD and has only (2 channel); DTS and DTS-HD decoding with 5.1 *analog* audio
> 
> output not digital or HDMI
> 
> And it only has 720p / 1081i video



He said that his dealer could demo a D1 but he asked about a D2. The D2 has the video board. While they probably can't be upgraded today they were offered the upgrade for about $2000 to add the video board. The source would needed to be able to read and decode to LPCM any formats he requires.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22728049
> 
> 
> He said that his dealer could demo a D1 but he asked about a D2. The D2 has the video board. While they probably can't be upgraded today they were offered the upgrade for about $2000 to add the video board. The source would needed to be able to read and decode to LPCM any formats he requires.



I wouldn't think purchasing a D1 would make sense after the purchase cost and the video board it might be more than a used D2v

I am confused about the question concerning


Quote "

have purchased, but not yet installed (it arrived an hour ago), a Toshiba HD-XA1 player. I was resigned to playing the audio through the analog inputs of my B&K AVR307, replacing my DVD-A player. I planned to wait until HDMI matured and receivers and pre-amps upgraded to HDMA 1.3 and added the advanced audio codecs to their arsenals.


Now, I have read that the D2 "handles" everything except SACD through its HDMI 1.1 connection. Does "handle" mean that I will get the full benefit of DD+ and DTS-HD over eight channels and Dolby True HD over two? Maybe I don't need to wait..."


The Toshiba HD-XA1 is not able to handle any of the formats, SACD etc he is talking about except I think Dolby HD over 2 channels but not from the current default format Blu Ray.

Maybe he could explain and comment further


----------



## paradigm25

I need some advice, and I am sure it has been discussed here before.


I have my gripes about sound quality of my system, and everyone says that I have good components, and they are: Anthem: D2v and P5, Paradigm: S8's, S2's, C3 and Sub25, Oppo 95, and a Sony ES5400.


Anyway, I was at a AV system dealer in town to see if changing my D2v with a McIntosh MX151 may solve my situation. This dealer has McIntosh, and Meridian level of equipment.


After I told him what was going-on and what my problem was, he said that my weak link here was my cheap cables, and he strongly suggested replacing all my cables including power cables with Audio Quest cables. I am a big skeptic when it comes to expensive looking cables, and I do not believe that very expensive cables can necessarily improve sound quality.


I have gone through three cheaper cables myself; I started with monoprice, then someone said Mogami, and right now I am using all Blue Jeans interconnects, and power cords are what came with the equipment. I use 8 gage bi-wire for speakers and XLR, RCA's, and HDMI's for interconnects.


I am sure there are lot of people here who have gone through this, so before I shell-out couple of thousand of dollars, I just want to ask the experts here; what their recommendation is, and what their experience is with the effect of cables is in a system like mine.


Thanks.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22729063
> 
> 
> I need some advice, and I am sure it has been discussed here before.
> 
> I have my gripes about sound quality of my system, and everyone says that I have good components, and they are: Anthem: D2v and P5, Paradigm: S8's, S2's, C3 and Sub25, Oppo 95, and a Sony ES5400.
> 
> Anyway, I was at a AV system dealer in town to see if changing my D2v with a McIntosh MX151 may solve my situation. This dealer has McIntosh, and Meridian level of equipment.
> 
> After I told him what was going-on and what my problem was, he said that my weak link here was my cheap cables, and he strongly suggested replacing all my cables including power cables with Audio Quest cables. I am a big skeptic when it comes to expensive looking cables, and I do not believe that very expensive cables can necessarily improve sound quality.
> 
> I have gone through three cheaper cables myself; I started with monoprice, then someone said Mogami, and right now I am using all Blue Jeans interconnects, and power cords are what came with the equipment. I use 8 gage bi-wire for speakers and XLR, RCA's, and HDMI's for interconnects.
> 
> I am sure there are lot of people here who have gone through this, so before I shell-out couple of thousand of dollars, I just want to ask the experts here; what their recommendation is, and what their experience is with the effect of cables is in a system like mine.
> 
> Thanks.



Glad you came back here before you "Bit the Bullet " for those $$$ cables and McIntosh gear.

I heard it at RMAF last month and was not impressed

You do have good equipment that should give you excellent audio.

Did the dealers system sound $$$ than yours ?

Exactly what is it that bothers you about the sound of your system ? Describe what kind of sound are you chasing ?


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22729099
> 
> 
> Glad you came back here before you "Bit the Bullet " for those $$$ cables and McIntosh gear.
> 
> I heard it at RMAF last month and was not impressed
> 
> You do have good equipment that should give you excellent audio.
> 
> Did the dealers system sound $$$ than yours ?
> 
> Exactly what is it that bothers you about the sound of your system ? Describe what kind of sound are you chasing ?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22729063
> 
> 
> I need some advice, and I am sure it has been discussed here before.
> 
> I have my gripes about sound quality of my system, and everyone says that I have good components, and they are: Anthem: D2v and P5, Paradigm: S8's, S2's, C3 and Sub25, Oppo 95, and a Sony ES5400.
> 
> Anyway, I was at a AV system dealer in town to see if changing my D2v with a McIntosh MX151 may solve my situation. This dealer has McIntosh, and Meridian level of equipment.
> 
> After I told him what was going-on and what my problem was, he said that my weak link here was my cheap cables, and he strongly suggested replacing all my cables including power cables with Audio Quest cables. I am a big skeptic when it comes to expensive looking cables, and I do not believe that very expensive cables can necessarily improve sound quality.
> 
> I have gone through three cheaper cables myself; I started with monoprice, then someone said Mogami, and right now I am using all Blue Jeans interconnects, and power cords are what came with the equipment. I use 8 gage bi-wire for speakers and XLR, RCA's, and HDMI's for interconnects.
> 
> I am sure there are lot of people here who have gone through this, so before I shell-out couple of thousand of dollars, I just want to ask the experts here; what their recommendation is, and what their experience is with the effect of cables is in a system like mine.
> 
> Thanks.



It is hard to describe sound; but I will try. I lack clarity and the feel of a large sound stage, or someone once said as if you have thrown a towel on the speakers. Lack of enough bass is another big thing. Lot of my friends and family have heard the system, and no one ever said that it sounds good, not that I care, but just to tell you that its not just me. It sounds little open when I use Analog Audio outs form Oppo and go AnlgDIR at D2v, but bass does gets boomy when I do that, and I forego all the benefit of ARC.


And about the sound form the dealer equipment; as you would know it is a very different system in an acoustically treated room, so it did sound good, but very hard to compare and hard to say why, and what I mean by that is that it may be because of other things not because of the higher grade cables, or is it because of higher grade cables. That is the question I guess.


Thanks for your help.


----------



## boyce89976

^ Your problem is not likely cables, its your amp. Send it to me for an evaluation.










Just kidding!


You have some of the best equipment available (my dream system, actually). Its most likely your room and/or speaker placement. Have you run ARC and can you post your measurements?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22729185
> 
> 
> It is hard to describe sound; but I will try. I lack clarity and the feel of a large sound stage, or someone once said as if you have thrown a towel on the speakers. Lack of enough bass is another big thing. Lot of my friends and family have heard the system, and no one ever said that it sounds good, not that I care, but just to tell you that its not just me. It sounds little open when I use Analog Audio outs form Oppo and go AnlgDIR at D2v, but bass does gets boomy when I do that, and I forego all the benefit of ARC.
> 
> And about the sound form the dealer equipment; as you would know it is a very different system in an acoustically treated room, so it did sound good, but very hard to compare and hard to say why, and what I mean by that is that it may be because of other things not because of the higher grade cables, or is it because of higher grade cables. That is the question I guess.
> 
> Thanks for your help.



There is more than likely something wrong with your setup. I think part of the clue is here.

_*" It sounds little open when I use Analog Audio outs form Oppo and go AnlgDIR at D2v, but bass does gets boomy when I do that."
*_

The bass should not get boomy. If anything it should be bass shy as with Analog direct there is NO sub. Your Paradigm Sub 25 is an excellent reproducer by the way.


If your Sony CD player is a SCD-XA5400ES then you have an excellent SACD player, as is the OPPO. SACD should be a good sounding audio source.


I know you were trying to get your TV sound to the Anthem and that is a horrible sound source. Worse than MP3.


Please post your latest ARC graphs and targets set up correctly with a Sound Level Meter as I cannot find any you posted previously.


To be continued


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22729185
> 
> 
> It is hard to describe sound; but I will try. I lack clarity and the feel of a large sound stage, or someone once said as if you have thrown a towel on the speakers. Lack of enough bass is another big thing. Lot of my friends and family have heard the system, and no one ever said that it sounds good, not that I care, but just to tell you that its not just me. It sounds little open when I use Analog Audio outs form Oppo and go AnlgDIR at D2v, but bass does gets boomy when I do that, and I forego all the benefit of ARC.
> 
> And about the sound form the dealer equipment; as you would know it is a very different system in an acoustically treated room, so it did sound good, but very hard to compare and hard to say why, and what I mean by that is that it may be because of other things not because of the higher grade cables, or is it because of higher grade cables. That is the question I guess.
> 
> Thanks for your help.



A couple of pictures of your room/setup would help too. Are your S8's close to the walls? That could help explain the boomy bass you're hearing.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22724572
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22724480
> 
> 
> I'd just put up my feet and listen. Charts look very good.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22724501
> 
> 
> ^^ What sub(s) do you use? Charts looks good for sure.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Thanks John!
> 
> 
> Thanks xMEATx, I use one Paradigm Sub 15. Since applying ARC (after PBK, which was done some time ago) and raising the sub to the proper level, I can truly say it's a phenomenal difference from where it was. I'm getting articulate, musical bass, with enough impact that you can FEEL the kick drum on certain music types. I'm very happy!
Click to expand...

+1







!


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22729321
> 
> 
> There is more than likely something wrong with your setup. I think part of the clue is here.
> _*" It sounds little open when I use Analog Audio outs form Oppo and go AnlgDIR at D2v, but bass does gets boomy when I do that."
> *_
> 
> The bass should not get boomy. If anything it should be bass shy as with Analog direct there is NO sub. Your Paradigm Sub 25 is an excellent reproducer by the way.
> 
> If your Sony CD player is a SCD-XA5400ES then you have an excellent SACD player, as is the OPPO. SACD should be a good sounding audio source.
> 
> I know you were trying to get your TV sound to the Anthem and that is a horrible sound source. Worse than MP3.
> 
> Please post your latest ARC graphs and targets set up correctly with a Sound Level Meter as I cannot find any you posted previously.
> 
> To be continued



Thank you. I know I can get some real help here.


I plan to run ARC once again, but due to travel it will not be possible to do that for next couple of weeks, and I do not want to waste your time on something that is going to change soon.


Yes my CD player is Sony SCD-XA5400ES.


I will be in touch.


Thank you boyce89976.


----------



## ravichopra




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22727886
> 
> 
> A coaxial or optical connection may trigger DRM as no pure digital output of a SACD is allowed.
> 
> The 6-channel is used only for analog input so you should be using a DVD source setup for multi channel SACD.
> 
> I still believe you have an error somewhere in your setup
> 
> I am currently 3000 miles from my D2v in Barbados so I can not easily see how I set it up so i am recalling everything from memory



Yea, I wish it was, but I've been over everything. The key thing is that 2 channel SACD works fine, it just goes mute with multi-channel. This seems to scream "bandwidth" as an issue, but I've tried the OPPO at 1080i and 1080p with no change. I've put in the OPPO cable, so that shouldn't be the problem. The only thing left that makes sense within the context of 2-channel working but multi-channel not is a handshake problem which implies firmware issues if it's not the cable or connectors.


Since I have an AVM-50 (not the v), the hardware and firmware are different, so no surprise that what works with your machine may not with mine. Anthem support said as much - that there's a problem with this specific OPPO (and newer ones) and the non-v variants of the AVM-50 and D2. I'm hoping that Bob is wrong and a firmware walk-back will correct the problem without reintroducing the strange crackles I was hearing in SACD early on.


It's definitely not coax/optical and it's definitely not an issue of the source. You can set any of the sources to any of the analog or digital inputs. Calling it "6-channel" is just a label. They all work they way you assign them in setup and have nothing to do with the label. Regardless the behavior is the same whether it's done in 6-channel or DVD.


I do genuinely appreciate the help though. This shouldn't be that hard. HDMI and copy protection schemes are a plague for legitimate users. Makes me want to start pirating HD FLACs. I'm sure I'd have fewer problems getting them to work.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ravichopra*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22732298
> 
> 
> Yea, I wish it was, but I've been over everything. The key thing is that 2 channel SACD works fine, it just goes mute with multi-channel. This seems to scream "bandwidth" as an issue, but I've tried the OPPO at 1080i and 1080p with no change. I've put in the OPPO cable, so that shouldn't be the problem. The only thing left that makes sense within the context of 2-channel working but multi-channel not is a handshake problem which implies firmware issues if it's not the cable or connectors.
> 
> Since I have an AVM-50 (not the v), the hardware and firmware are different, so no surprise that what works with your machine may not with mine. Anthem support said as much - that there's a problem with this specific OPPO (and newer ones) and the non-v variants of the AVM-50 and D2. I'm hoping that Bob is wrong and a firmware walk-back will correct the problem without reintroducing the strange crackles I was hearing in SACD early on.
> 
> It's definitely not coax/optical and it's definitely not an issue of the source. You can set any of the sources to any of the analog or digital inputs. Calling it "6-channel" is just a label. They all work they way you assign them in setup and have nothing to do with the label. Regardless the behavior is the same whether it's done in 6-channel or DVD.
> 
> I do genuinely appreciate the help though. This shouldn't be that hard. HDMI and copy protection schemes are a plague for legitimate users. Makes me want to start pirating HD FLACs. I'm sure I'd have fewer problems getting them to work.



Very good and legitimate response to the problem you are experiencing.

As a compromise, and one without any adverse audio qualities why not use the 6 channel analog output into the AVM50 ? The OPPO DAC is as good and probably better than the Anthem DAC.

Having the OPPO decode the SACD DSD to LPCM would not be a wrong move.

I have a Sony SCD-XA777ES SACD player that does not have HDMI and when I compare it to the OPPO 83 via analog out the OPPO is quite good.

Alternately,when you are ready for the ultimate, I can show and will lead you into playing ripped or downloaded DSD files and you will never look back at a SACD again.


.


----------



## Thxtheater

*Experience using Roomie Remote and Harmony Link for iOS to control and Anthem-centric setup*


Greetings all, some time ago, I had posted some thoughts on Harmony Link and Roomie as iOS-based remotes that would be used to go from IP to IR. Currently, I have a fairly extensive setup on an RF-based Harmony 900.


For those who want this kind of setup or who have complexity in their setting and don't want to pay for custom integration services for Crestron, etc. I can wholeheartedly recommend the Roomie and absolutely tell you to avoid the Harmony Link. I purchased both and have been putting both through some extensive testing.

*Harmony Link*

The limitations on only 8 devices was difficult (and talked about), but the limitation on only 8 activities was a deal-breaker. I have an extensive setup with two home theater rooms and 3 audio zones and I could not accommodate the granular control and number of activities in the Harmony Link. What I found to be great was the ability to copy the setup from my existing Harmony 900, but everything else after that was a disappointment. If you have a relatively simple setup, it may be a good option, but for complex or extensive setups, avoid it. I head that there was a system-wide outage at Logitech early December and that the Harmony "phones home" every day; so if it can't get to the main logitech servers, the unit won't work. The forums are riddled with complaints on this.

*Roomie*

The Roomie remote was initially a turn-off. I had to buy the app and then the limitation on rooms and devices was a handicap. Then the need to purchase additional software packs added to the aggravation; however after purchasing all the software packs and the IP2IR unit, I can only say that I'm thoroughly impressed with the Roomie. I'm about 80% complete with my setup that includes 2 home theater setups (a 7.1 and a 4.1) powered with 2 TVs and two different receivers (an Anthem 50v in the main and a Marantz in the secondary room) and I'm also using Roomie to control a second office site.


Roomie allows you to setup rooms and then activities within each room. This is a huge plus over the Logitech approach. You can thus have a "bedroom", a "kitchen", or a "theater" setup as main rooms and then individual activities in those rooms. Example, you can have activity "music" in the bedroom, "watch TV' in the kitchen, etc. I found Roomie's approach to be fantastic. Another fantastic feature is that if you have multiple iOS devices, you can instantly synchronize settings and updates across devices. You can even backup and update settings via DropBox or iCloud or iTunes Sync. Emailing yourself the settings is also supported.


iTunes support is fantastic. It allows you to browse your entire library and supports cover art on the iOS device including play time, etc.


However, most importantly, and this is why I'm posting in this forum, I found the support for the Anthem pre-pros to be great and comprehensive. I was able to control all three zones flawlessly. The only caveat is that zones 2 and 3 required a higher order command repeat (setting 4 worked in my setup). Right now, what I don't see in the Roomie configuration is support for the enhanced inputs (DVD1, DVD2, DVD3, TV1, TV2, TV3, etc) that are part of the newer 50v and D2v units. I've inquired about this from Roomie and I'll either send over the current IR set or just configure it myself as a Plist file and send over to Roomie after testing. This is the only "missing" thing I've found in the setup.


So, bottom line. If you have an Anthem-based setup and you want to have granular capability on setting up your activities, the Roomie seems like a very promising solution for iOS devices. So far, I give Roomie a big thumbs up. If I can get the multiple input issue resolved, then I will have as close to a perfect iOS remote solution as I can imagine.


Then again, if there was an IP interface that would allow bi-directional communication over IP from the Anthem to the Roomie, then that would be the perfect solution. Not sure if Anthem has planned on providing any IP-support interface for the pre-pro series.


I hope everyone has a wonderful Christmas holiday and New Year.


Regards,

Theo


----------



## obie_fl

Haven't used Roomie but I have been using iRule for quite a while now. I really like the possibilities of direct IP control on the Oppo, Roku and my JVC projector, but you can do a lot with RS232 serial too. Right now I'm still using IR on the Anthem but may switch it over to RS232. I thought there were separate discrete RS232 commands for the layered input selections but when I checked the other day I didn't see them listed. Maybe you just send the command multiple times like pressing the front panel button.


ETA: I see the RS232 commands for the layered input selections are in the Anthem spreadsheet, they just weren't in the iRule database. Easy enough to add though.


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22732705
> 
> *Experience using Roomie Remote and Harmony Link for iOS to control and Anthem-centric setup*
> 
> 
> Theo



Thanks for that, very useful. Off to research it right now!


----------



## dweltman

I apologize if this is a duplicate posting, but has anyone yet upgraded any of the early D2V models to 3D that require the changing of the video board as well? If so, how did it turn out?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22734328
> 
> 
> I apologize if this is a duplicate posting, but has anyone yet upgraded any of the early D2V models to 3D that require the changing of the video board as well? If so, how did it turn out?


I did and its working well.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22734528
> 
> 
> I did and its working well.
> 
> John



John


Did you upgrade the firmware first or wait until after you had installed the card ? I have been procrastinating on the upgrade.

My D2v works so well I did not want to hurry into the upgrade as a _Beta_ user.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22734821
> 
> 
> John
> 
> Did you upgrade the firmware first or wait until after you had installed the card ? I have been procrastinating on the upgrade.
> 
> My D2v works so well I did not want to hurry into the upgrade as a _Beta_ user.


Firmware done after, same as when I did the ARC upgrade on my AVM 50.

John


----------



## Kensmith48

I did the upgrade while standing on a rubber mat at my work bench and wearing the provided grounding strap. I set the D2v to the factory defaults first, installed the boards and did the fw upgrade. Turned out great.


----------



## Bghead8che

I have a few questions regarding the upgradeability and cost of the Anthem unit.


1. How much was the upgrade cost from the D1 to the D2?

2. How much was the upgrade cost from the D2 to the D2V?

3. How much was the upgrade cost from the D2V to the D2V HD?


Can anyone send in their unit for the HD upgrade at this point? Lastly, any word on the D3? Think we are still months out or do you think it might be released soon?


Thanks in advance for your help!


-Brian


----------



## AVfile

D1 upgrade was just mentioned on the last page. You can't upgrade a D2. D2v 3D is the latest ever mentioned. At least I've never heard of such a thing called D3.


Search for posts in this thread by "Nick @ Anthem" and the rest of your questions will be answered including email address for Anthem tech support.


----------



## AVfile

Trying to play a classic (lol) Christmas movie Die Hard 2 which is DTS HD HR 5.1 and get NO AUDIO with bitstream. All sorts of incorrect audio readout on the 50v front panel such as DTS HD MA, 5.1, 2.0, DD 5.1 - it was all messed up. Decoded in Oppo and sent PCM no problem. Anyone else care to try it? Tis the season


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22732535
> 
> 
> Very good and legitimate response to the problem you are experiencing.
> 
> As a compromise, and one without any adverse audio qualities why not use the 6 channel analog output into the AVM50 ? The OPPO DAC is as good and probably better than the Anthem DAC.
> 
> Having the OPPO decode the SACD DSD to LPCM would not be a wrong move.
> 
> I have a Sony SCD-XA777ES SACD player that does not have HDMI and when I compare it to the OPPO 83 via analog out the OPPO is quite good.
> 
> .



I must say I am stumped on Ravi's issue. It should work. Next logical step would be to borrow a different player if he's really keen on getting to the bottom of it. Using analog in this system is a bit defeating, and the players bass management and time alignment would have to come into play if choosing direct, otherwise BOTH DACS come into play (re-digitizing) which I am certain will not sound as good and it is a lot more confusing.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22729321
> 
> 
> There is more than likely something wrong with your setup. I think part of the clue is here.
> _*" It sounds little open when I use Analog Audio outs form Oppo and go AnlgDIR at D2v, but bass does gets boomy when I do that."
> *_
> 
> The bass should not get boomy. If anything it should be bass shy as with Analog direct there is NO sub.



There is sub if he's using 5.1 analog input.


Actually I am not surprised at his results. Some have described ARCs effects on the upper frequencies as "closed in". It depends a lot on your speakers. However few would argue that ARC does not tame bass nasties and control room gain. So more boomy without ARC makes sense.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22736665
> 
> 
> I must say I am stumped on Ravi's issue. It should work. Next logical step would be to borrow a different player if he's really keen on getting to the bottom of it. Using analog in this system is a bit defeating, and the players bass management and time alignment would have to come into play if choosing direct, otherwise BOTH DACS come into play (re-digitizing) which I am certain will not sound as good and it is a lot more confusing.




I agree on many of your points.


Ravi


There is a logical answer to this. We know the OPPO works with the everyone else's Anthem. They have from the beginning and continue.. Work-a-Rounds or alternative setups are not the answer.

Ravi as AVfile has suggested get a different SACD player or take your player to a friends or dealer and test the operation. You have to eliminate the OPPO as the problem source.

After substantuating the OPPO operation you will only be left with the Anthem setup or a bad Anthem unit. And you should be able to test your Anthem the same as the OPPO.


Ravi


One more additional thing I wanted to ask. Does your Anthem correctly give you 5.1 surround from your other multi channel sources that are connected by HDMI ?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22736673
> 
> 
> There is sub if he's using 5.1 analog input.
> 
> Actually I am not surprised at his results. Some have described ARCs effects on the upper frequencies as "closed in". It depends a lot on your speakers. However few would argue that ARC does not tame bass nasties and control room gain. So more boomy without ARC makes sense.



He said he selected Analog Direct at the D2v and it is only 2 channel and NO SUB. You need Analog Digital to turn on the DAC and process the digital signal to add the sub.


And yes a lot depends on your speakers and a lot your source material.


My opinion and still is,


Analog material from a good turntable setup or Hi Rez files played Analog Direct seldom sound improved with ARC. Different ? Yes, a change of sound stage, the added sub to overcome the L/R speaker deficiencies etc

But not the sound quality. There is less dynamics and realism.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22737315
> 
> 
> He said he selected Analog Direct at the D2v and it is only 2 channel and NO SUB. You need Analog Digital to turn on the DAC and process the digital signal to add the sub.
> 
> And yes a lot depends on your speakers and a lot your source material.
> 
> My opinion and still is,
> 
> Analog material from a good turntable setup or Hi Rez files played Analog Direct seldom sound improved with ARC. Different ? Yes, a change of sound stage, the added sub to overcome the L/R speaker deficiencies etc
> 
> But not the sound quality. There is less dynamics and realism.



Why would the source change how ARC affects the sound?

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22738271
> 
> 
> Why would the source change how ARC affects the sound?
> 
> John



I don't understand your question. Are you saying the selected Anthem source you are using or the source material you are playing ?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22738462
> 
> 
> I don't understand your question. Are you saying the selected Anthem source you are using or the source material you are playing ?



The source material.

John


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22738495
> 
> 
> The source material.
> 
> John



I hope i was not misinterpreted. I do not remember saying ARC would change with the source material.

Only that the source material would influence the overall sound quality of the system.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22739111
> 
> 
> I hope i was not misinterpreted. I do not remember saying ARC would change with the source material.
> 
> Only that the source material would influence the overall sound quality of the system.


I must have misinterpreted, you explanation makes sense.

John


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22736673
> 
> 
> There is sub if he's using 5.1 analog input.
> 
> Actually I am not surprised at his results. Some have described ARCs effects on the upper frequencies as "closed in". It depends a lot on your speakers. However few would argue that ARC does not tame bass nasties and control room gain. So more boomy without ARC makes sense.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22739168
> 
> 
> I must have misinterpreted, you explanation makes sense.
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22739111
> 
> 
> I hope i was not misinterpreted. I do not remember saying ARC would change with the source material.
> 
> Only that the source material would influence the overall sound quality of the system.



Thank you guys; but my original post (see below) was to get some input on the high-priced, exotic looking cables. I am guessing most of you think it is absurd idea to pay $$$$ for cables, but I sure would like to get the input. (I will post ARC results once I get back in town).


Original Post:


"I need some advice, and I am sure it has been discussed here before.


I have my gripes about sound quality of my system, and everyone says that I have good components, and they are: Anthem: D2v and P5, Paradigm: S8's, S2's, C3 and Sub25, Oppo 95, and a Sony ES5400.


Anyway, I was at a AV system dealer in town to see if changing my D2v with a McIntosh MX151 may solve my situation. This dealer has McIntosh, and Meridian level of equipment.


After I told him what was going-on and what my problem was, he said that my weak link here was my cheap cables, and he strongly suggested replacing all my cables including power cables with Audio Quest cables. I am a big skeptic when it comes to expensive looking cables, and I do not believe that very expensive cables can necessarily improve sound quality.


I have gone through three cheaper cables myself; I started with monoprice, then someone said Mogami, and right now I am using all Blue Jeans interconnects, and power cords are what came with the equipment. I use 8 gage bi-wire for speakers and XLR, RCA's, and HDMI's for interconnects.


I am sure there are lot of people here who have gone through this, so before I shell-out couple of thousand of dollars, I just want to ask the experts here; what their recommendation is, and what their experience is with the effect of cables is in a system like mine.


Thanks."


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22729099
> 
> 
> Glad you came back here before you "Bit the Bullet " for those $$$ cables and McIntosh gear.
> 
> I heard it at RMAF last month and was not impressed
> 
> You do have good equipment that should give you excellent audio.
> 
> Did the dealers system sound $$$ than yours ?
> 
> Exactly what is it that bothers you about the sound of your system ? Describe what kind of sound are you chasing ?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22740696
> 
> 
> Thank you guys; but my original post (see below) was to get some input on the high-priced, exotic looking cables. I am guessing most of you think it is absurd idea to pay $$$$ for cables, but I sure would like to get the input. (I will post ARC results once I get back in town).
> 
> Original Post:
> 
> "I need some advice, and I am sure it has been discussed here before.
> 
> I have my gripes about sound quality of my system, and everyone says that I have good components, and they are: Anthem: D2v and P5, Paradigm: S8's, S2's, C3 and Sub25, Oppo 95, and a Sony ES5400.
> 
> Anyway, I was at a AV system dealer in town to see if changing my D2v with a McIntosh MX151 may solve my situation. This dealer has McIntosh, and Meridian level of equipment.
> 
> After I told him what was going-on and what my problem was, he said that my weak link here was my cheap cables, and he strongly suggested replacing all my cables including power cables with Audio Quest cables. I am a big skeptic when it comes to expensive looking cables, and I do not believe that very expensive cables can necessarily improve sound quality.
> 
> I have gone through three cheaper cables myself; I started with monoprice, then someone said Mogami, and right now I am using all Blue Jeans interconnects, and power cords are what came with the equipment. I use 8 gage bi-wire for speakers and XLR, RCA's, and HDMI's for interconnects.
> 
> I am sure there are lot of people here who have gone through this, so before I shell-out couple of thousand of dollars, I just want to ask the experts here; what their recommendation is, and what their experience is with the effect of cables is in a system like mine.
> 
> Thanks."




If you check at the top at the first quote I think I did answer in a slightly indirect way. Cables, especially high priced audio and USB cables are a sensitive subject.

There are forums with thousands of pages arguing over them.

Here are some examples and again they are not my statements.


"I have tried several different cables in my system and sometimes the cheaper cable has won out. I don't think price is always a good indicator of how good a cable may be".


"Given the option to mate a ten thousand dollar speaker with a ten thousand dollar cable. I would chose a twenty thousand dollar speaker."


"I'd use that $20,000 speaker with zip cord and it will sound MUCH better than the $10,000 speaker with $10,000 cables."


My personal choice which has been recommended by several persons in the industry, both speaker designers, has been Mogami balanced for interconnects.

My interconnects are 15 to 25 feet long. Imagine what a $$ ANY Brand Audiophile cable would cost.

I would suggest if the expensive cables or the high priced electronics is the route you want to seek.

Test and listen to them before purchasing. You may be chasing a negative improvement

Get a 30 day money back guarantee so if there is no or change or a change so small it is not worth the investment you can return the merchandise.


But, first you need the correct setup using a sound level meter


----------



## boyce89976

^Agreed, copper is copper... no need to spend big money on cables. Just go to monoprice, bluejeans or one of the other online cable vendors. When wiring, keep your power and audio cables separate from each other to eliminate the potential of AC noise.


----------



## MKaiserman

It is true - pure copper is pure copper, but that is only part of the answer regarding interconnect cables.


Basic knowledge of Electricity & Magnetism (in physics) clearly proves that when two (or more) wires run next to each other, and when voltage or current is applied to either or both,

magnetic fields, capacitance, and inductance are created (think of a motor).


Poor physical construction will (and does) alter the frequency response and power handling capabilities of a cable.

Stop and think for a minute - Why are there so many versions of RG cables ?

Why does Beldin make so many different types of RG cables, why do they spec the inductance and capacitance of the cable ?

Even Blue Jeans Cable specs the inductance and capacitance of their cables. Why ?

Because of the construction of each cable, and its possible effects on the signal.


Yes, the cost of the cables are outrageous, but in many cases, the addition of a quality cable(s) can make a noticeable improvement to the sound.


The same is true for HDMI cables (they are a mess of signals and lots of jitter), power cables, and even the lowly USB cable.


You should ask your local hi-end audio dealer if you may borrow some cables, and determine for yourself if the cables improve the sound or image.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MKaiserman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22745690
> 
> 
> It is true - pure copper is pure copper, but that is only part of the answer regarding interconnect cables.
> 
> Basic knowledge of Electricity & Magnetism (in physics) clearly proves that when two (or more) wires run next to each other, and when voltage or current is applied to either or both,
> 
> magnetic fields, capacitance, and inductance are created (think of a motor).
> 
> Poor physical construction will (and does) alter the frequency response and power handling capabilities of a cable.
> 
> Stop and think for a minute - Why are there so many versions of RG cables ?
> 
> Why does Beldin make so many different types of RG cables, why do they spec the inductance and capacitance of the cable ?
> 
> Even Blue Jeans Cable specs the inductance and capacitance of their cables. Why ?
> 
> Because of the construction of each cable, and its possible effects on the signal.
> 
> Yes, the cost of the cables are outrageous, but in many cases, the addition of a quality cable(s) can make a noticeable improvement to the sound.
> 
> The same is true for HDMI cables (they are a mess of signals and lots of jitter), power cables, and even the lowly USB cable.
> 
> You should ask your local hi-end audio dealer if you may borrow some cables, and determine for yourself if the cables improve the sound or image.



My apologies, I didn't mean to suggest that any old cable will work (although, I know of quite a few people on this board who use lamp cord for speaker wire with good results). I am not an electrical engineer, and don't pretend to understand the complexities of passing the signal cleanly from one end to the other. However, I did spend quite a bit of time in professional recording studios back in the day as a sound engineer. What I haven't bought into is that there is a noticeable difference in sound quality or noise floor with different passive cables. I have compared speaker cable and interconnects from Monoprice, Emotiva, Transparent, Monster and Audioquest, and to my ears, there is no difference. I'm of the same opinion as Stew... I'd rather spend the money on better equipment/room treatments.


What I haven't experimented with is 'active' cables like the Audioquest Sky, and unless I win the lottery, I don't see having those anytime soon!


----------



## thestewman



Tweaking with high cost cables, wooden blocks, 100% silver paste,$80 fuses and other audiophile type tweaks will not correct the problems with an under performing system.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MKaiserman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22745690
> 
> 
> Poor physical construction will (and does) alter the frequency response and power handling capabilities of a cable.



Yes.


The thing though is that measurements have shown that the hurdle needed to get over for a cable to be considered to have good physical construction for audio applications is a fairly low one. The most famous test is one where a coat hanger is shown to satisfy this requirement just as well as more sophisticated cables.

http://consumerist.com/2008/03/03/do-coat-hangers-sound-as-good-monster-cables/ 


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MKaiserman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22745690
> 
> 
> Stop and think for a minute - Why are there so many versions of RG cables ?



The electrical requirements for audio applications are far less stringent than long runs for radio or CATV frequency applications in the GHz range. In addition to a variety of electrical requirements (such as low emissions to prevent interference) these cables are designed for many different environmental exposures - interior, exterior, burial, applications where the cable needs to have added physical strength because it is hanging from a utility pole, etc. etc. etc.


It seems to me that there are far better places to spend money than on cables. Speakers, room treatments and quality recordings are some of these.


----------



## thestewman

So, here we have a very capable group of audiophile components that should result in a more than adequate sounding system.


Anthem: D2v Pre/pro

Anthem Statement P5 five channel amplifier

Paradigm: S8 speakers

Paradigm S2 speakers

Paradigm: C3 Center speaker

Paradigm: Sub 25 sub woofer


What is happening that the OP Paradigm 25 is stating that he is hearing a less than synergistic result from this compilation of excellent audiophile equipment ?


All the equipment is from one manufacturer and I would be willing to bet Paradigm and Anthem have assembled the same equipment and had great sound.

Now I am not suggesting you do this, but, I would also bet they could use zipcord for speaker wire and Radio Shack interconnects and Best Buy house brand for everything else and it would sound OK


Now I know there are plenty of AVS forum members out there who came up against the same thing. Assembled a great group of components and the result was less than what you expected.

Help Paradigm25 out.



. What did you do ?


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22747820
> 
> 
> So, here we have a very capable group of audiophile components that should result in a more than adequate sounding system.
> 
> Anthem: D2v Pre/pro
> 
> Anthem Statement P5 five channel amplifier
> 
> Paradigm: S8 speakers
> 
> Paradigm S2 speakers
> 
> Paradigm: C3 Center speaker
> 
> Paradigm: Sub 25 sub woofer
> 
> What is happening that the OP Paradigm 25 is stating that he is hearing a less than synergistic result from this compilation of excellent audiophile equipment ?
> 
> All the equipment is from one manufacturer and I would be willing to bet Paradigm and Anthem have assembled the same equipment and had great sound.
> 
> Now I am not suggesting you do this, but, I would also bet they could use zipcord for speaker wire and Radio Shack interconnects and Best Buy house brand for everything else and it would sound OK
> 
> Now I know there are plenty of AVS forum members out there who came up against the same thing. Assembled a great group of components and the result was less than what you expected.
> 
> Help Paradigm25 out.
> 
> . What did you do ?



Agreed, Stew, this should be an excellent audiophile quality system straight out of the box... one that I aspire to!


As I've said before, his symptoms sound like setup/positioning/room problems to me. I would love to see a diagram of his room and how he has his speakers and listening position set up. In my room, I can move 4 ft backward and my system sounds like an AM radio. I have an incredibly problematic room, but as you can see from my ARC charts, I have achieved very good response in the listening position through proper speaker and listening position placement.


The only other area that I can think of that might be worth a look are the sources, and how they are set up. Outside of that, I'm at a loss, but would be happy to demo his equipment for a couple months to help figure it out!


----------



## jayray

I have all Anthem/Paadigm equipment with mono price, cables. It took several months testing different positions before I got excellent graphs. Now it sounds amazing.


D2v

Studio 100s

CC690

PSB S50 surrounds

Sub 25

A2 and A5 amps


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22748122
> 
> 
> I have all Anthem/Paadigm equipment with mono price, cables. It took several months testing different positions before I got excellent graphs. Now it sounds amazing.
> 
> D2v
> 
> Studio 100s
> 
> CC690
> 
> PSB S50 surrounds
> 
> Sub 25
> 
> A2 and A5 amps



I too have an Anthem and Paradigm system with Monoprice XLRs and Emotiva X-series speaker cables:


AVM 50v

Studio 100s L/R

CC690

Studio 20s LS/RS

Sub 15

I'm currently running an Emotiva XPA5 while a scratch together the funds for an A5


My system sounds REALLY good, and will sound even better with some room treatment this spring. I can only imagine what a D2v/P5 and Sigs would sound like!


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22740696
> 
> 
> Thank you guys; but my original post (see below) was to get some input on the high-priced, exotic looking cables. I am guessing most of you think it is absurd idea to pay $$$$ for cables, but I sure would like to get the input. (I will post ARC results once I get back in town).
> 
> Original Post:
> 
> "I need some advice, and I am sure it has been discussed here before.
> 
> I have my gripes about sound quality of my system, and everyone says that I have good components, and they are: Anthem: D2v and P5, Paradigm: S8's, S2's, C3 and Sub25, Oppo 95, and a Sony ES5400.
> 
> Anyway, I was at a AV system dealer in town to see if changing my D2v with a McIntosh MX151 may solve my situation. This dealer has McIntosh, and Meridian level of equipment.
> 
> After I told him what was going-on and what my problem was, he said that my weak link here was my cheap cables, and he strongly suggested replacing all my cables including power cables with Audio Quest cables. I am a big skeptic when it comes to expensive looking cables, and I do not believe that very expensive cables can necessarily improve sound quality.
> 
> I have gone through three cheaper cables myself; I started with monoprice, then someone said Mogami, and right now I am using all Blue Jeans interconnects, and power cords are what came with the equipment. I use 8 gage bi-wire for speakers and XLR, RCA's, and HDMI's for interconnects.
> 
> I am sure there are lot of people here who have gone through this, so before I shell-out couple of thousand of dollars, I just want to ask the experts here; what their recommendation is, and what their experience is with the effect of cables is in a system like mine.
> 
> Thanks."


You have very good equipment. Did you check to make sure ARC is on for all sources that you are using? How is your room? Is it lively? Is it dead? Is your room treated? Is your room over treated? Is your room under treated? Another thing is location, location, location. Do you have your speakers and sub set up in the best location possible based on your choices of locations? Is your main listening position (mlp) located in a null spot? Is your mlp near a wall?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39330#post_22737315
> 
> 
> He said he selected Analog Direct at the D2v and it is only 2 channel and NO SUB.



I'm sorry I thought we had a 6-ch analog input and didn't know it was limited to 2-ch direct (never tried to use it obviously). I must have been thinking of my 10-year old Lexicon


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22748428
> 
> 
> I'm sorry I thought we had a 6-ch analog input and didn't know it was limited to 2-ch direct (never tried to use it obviously). I must have been thinking of my 10-year old Lexicon



It is one area I find a bit confusing. And have never been able to have an Anthem CS person give me a technically correct answer.

I am not at home so I cannot test my D2v but if I remember the displays shows 6 Chan when selected and not Analog Dir. You might check that.

I know it has been stated several times the only way to get a Anthem Pre/Pro to utilize the sub is by having the analog signal processed by the Anthem DAC to subtract the low frequency information.

If I am incorrect I would like to have the correct information


----------



## gerard1meehan

This Might be a shot in the dark for Paradigm25’s issues. But I have an almost identical set up but my surrounds are Sig ADP’s and I use a Sub 1. But once after doing a software update, my setup somehow defaulted that I had Dolby Volume activated. My music sounded wrong. I would say it’s an easy thing to check.


System:


D2v3D

Oppo Nuforce 83

Signature S8

C5

4 ADP3s

2 Statement p2s

1 Statement P5

Signature Sub 1


I am using Signature Cable interconnects (signaturecable.com)


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22749008
> 
> 
> It is one area I find a bit confusing. And have never been able to have an Anthem CS person give me a technically correct answer.
> 
> I am not at home so I cannot test my D2v but if I remember the displays shows 6 Chan when selected and not Analog Dir. You might check that.
> 
> I know it has been stated several times the only way to get a Anthem Pre/Pro to utilize the sub is by having the analog signal processed by the Anthem DAC to subtract the low frequency information.
> 
> If I am incorrect I would like to have the correct information



Been a while since I used analog but you are correct there is no analog bass management. Just to clarify a bit it is not the DAC doing the bass management, it is the DSP. The chain is ADC - DSP - DAC for any analog processing. I'm honestly not sure if you can route the 6 channel analog direct or not... for some reason I thought you could but I'm not home to test either.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22749195
> 
> 
> Been a while since I used analog but you are correct there is no analog bass management. Just to clarify a bit it is not the DAC doing the bass management, it is the DSP. The chain is ADC - DSP - DAC for any analog processing. I'm honestly not sure if you can route the 6 channel analog direct or not... for some reason I thought you could but I'm not home to test either.



Thank you all for your help. I will not be able to upload my ARC results for sometime as some have asked for, but one thing I can answer.


If you connect six RCA cables from Oppo 95's Analog OUT to D2v 6-channel Analog IN, and select Anlg DIR under source setup for that input source, and play a 5.1 SACD (or any source for that matter, a Blu-ray with Master Audio track), you get straight out analog from Oppo to D2v to amplifier. D2v becomes a volume control only (that is one reason to get Oppo 95 over 93, because it has better dedicated analog outs, and Oppo tells you to use 95 in this manner to make use of DAC's in Oppo 95, otherwise get a 93). I got Oppo 95 to see if using it's DAC's will improve my situation.


In this setup you can do bass management in Oppo which only applies to it's analog outs. It has speaker distances, and trims.


I know speaker cables and interconnects is a very sensitive and highly debated issue, and in all honesty scientifically it does not make sense to me to use a cable just because it looks exotic, and that is why I asked, and I think overwhelmingly the answer is that good quality regular cables are as good. Do Blue Jeans and Monoprice considered good? (They are sponsor of this site).


Thanks again.


----------



## dmusoke


I need your help and expertise in the problem i'm having. I need someone to try out a simple experiment for me please who is using analog inputs from stereo XLRs and MCH 5.1 inputs all set to AnalogDSP for processing and no further post-processing. Here's my problem...

 

When i play a stereo source using the XLRs, say one that has a female voice, i find the voice to be centered between the speakers, which is fine. Similar observation happens when i use the HDMI as a source input from this stereo CD. I was playing the wonder kid Jackie Evanko, "O Holy Night" CD.

 

Now, when i switch it to use the 5.1 inputs, which end up using only the Left/Right/Sub channels, the voice imaging shifts away from center and pans center-left and the background instrumentation shifts as well in an odd manner. Remenber ARC is in play here.

 

I thought it was a wiring issue, so i double and triple checked that and it was fine. I then BYPASSED the D2v and went direct from my CD player (Oppo BDP-105) direct into my power amp (Sunfire, 400Wx7) and all was right as rain. When i compared the vocal imaging between the two inputs, it didn't change one bit. XLR outs produced identical imaging to the L/R/Sub outs of the 105. This test eliminated the Oppo as a culprit.

 

I re-wired everthing back to my pre-pro and the afore-mentioned image shifts happen. I reloaded the FW multiple times(v 3.09f) and even went back to the official one (v3.09c) and still problem remains. Ditto with ARC as well as i reloaded it several times as well when changing firmwares obviously.

 

Can someone perform this quick test for me please? To compare the 2Ch and 5.1 analog channel using a stereo CD and no post-processing to see if you observe a shift in imaging between the two inputs?

 

Help much appreciated as this has puzzled me to no end.

 

Thanks,

David

 

*PS*

I thought the XLR cables were pin reversed(2,3) as is the case in some cables, but it isn't the case in mine as i ohm'd the cables in they have a straight thru pinout. Cables are from Blue Jeans Cabel and they said that unless the customer specifically asks for a pin reversal, they wire their XLRs as a straight through cable.


----------



## thestewman

Explain what you mean by no post processing.


And if it is 5.1 M/Chan input what is the status of the center and surrounds ?

When you select 5.1 what mode is being utilized ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DMUSOKE,

Save User Settings (so you can recover more easily).


Reload Factory Defaults.


Manually enter the bare minimum settings needed to test the difference between the XLR stereo inputs and the 5.1 RCA inputs. Test first with ANALOG-DIRECT, the with ANALOG-DSP (ARC turned off for the Source), then with ANALOG-DSP after re-Uploading your ARC solution. Do you still hear the problem?


If the problem goes away, then it is likely you had a setting you've forgotten about which is causing your confusion. For example, THX post processing which de-correlates the front sound stage, or "temporary" volume trims.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22750326
> 
> 
> Explain what you mean by no post processing.
> 
> 
> And if it is 5.1 M/Chan input what is the status of the center and surrounds ?
> 
> When you select 5.1 what mode is being utilized ?


 

No other surround modes applied to the stereo signal(No THX, PLIIx, etc). When 5.1 is selected on the stereo signal, all channels show up on screen, i.e L,C,R,SL,SR. Is this normal?

 

 


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22750387
> 
> 
> DMUSOKE,
> 
> Save User Settings (so you can recover more easily).
> 
> 
> Reload Factory Defaults.
> 
> 
> Manually enter the bare minimum settings needed to test the difference between the XLR stereo inputs and the 5.1 RCA inputs. Test first with ANALOG-DIRECT, the with ANALOG-DSP (ARC turned off for the Source), then with ANALOG-DSP after re-Uploading your ARC solution. Do you still hear the problem?
> 
> 
> If the problem goes away, then it is likely you had a setting you've forgotten about which is causing your confusion. For example, THX post processing which de-correlates the front sound stage, or "temporary" volume trims.
> 
> --Bob


 

1. Analog-Direct ---> After loading factory defaults, both XLR and RCA sound identical without the image shifts i observed before.

 

2. Analog-DSP(ARC turned off)  ----> both XLR and RCA sound identical without the image shifts i observed before.

 

3. Analog-DSP (after uploading my ARC solution) ---> Image shift between 2CH & MCH returns







!

    I have separate configurations for Movie(MCH) and Music(2CH) so maybe that's the cause?

 

4. After changing all configurations to Music for both 2CH & MCH, the image shift is still intact







!

 

Not sure what could be wrong here ...


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22750759
> 
> 
> 3. Analog-DSP (after uploading my ARC solution) ---> Image shift between 2CH & MCH returns !
> 
> I have separate configurations for Movie(MCH) and Music(2CH) so maybe that's the cause?
> 
> 
> 4. After changing all configurations to Music for both 2CH & MCH, the image shift is still intact !
> 
> 
> Not sure what could be wrong here ...


Check your distance and level trim settings. If they are set in the player then default them in the D2v, if they are set in both then the ones in the D2v will be active when in Analog-DSP, in which case the combination of both will be incorrect and throw off your imaging.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Agreed. DMUSOKE, the most likely scenario is that you have speaker configuration settings active in the OPPO. When you run the audio through ARC the *ANTHEM* is supposed to do all that stuff, which means you want to set the OPPO to do none of it: In the OPPO, set all speakers Large, with 0dB volume trim, and equidistant -- any distance will do so long as they are all the same. Also set DTS Neo:6 Mode OFF in the OPPO. The only thing you want the OPPO doing is decoding the audio tracks, and doing the down-mix to 5.1 Analog output when playing 7.1 tracks.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39350_50#post_22750290
> 
> 
> I need your help and expertise in the problem i'm having. I need someone to try out a simple experiment for me please who is using analog inputs from stereo XLRs and MCH 5.1 inputs all set to AnalogDSP for processing and no further post-processing. Here's my problem...



For dmusoke, there somewhere on the internet the file:

hd_dts_hd_master_audio_sound_check_5_1_lossless.m2ts

I do not remember where I downloaded it from but it has test of 2 speakers at a time for all your 5 speakers (in a 5.1 configuration) and it will play

- in phase and

- out of phase

This should let you know if the audio processing is rotating the phase on 1 of your speakers.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22751465
> 
> 
> ^ Agreed. DMUSOKE, the most likely scenario is that you have speaker configuration settings active in the OPPO. When you run the audio through ARC the *ANTHEM* is supposed to do all that stuff, which means you want to set the OPPO to do none of it: In the OPPO, set all speakers Large, with 0dB volume trim, and equidistant -- any distance will do so long as they are all the same. Also set DTS Neo:6 Mode OFF in the OPPO. The only thing you want the OPPO doing is decoding the audio tracks, and doing the down-mix to 5.1 Analog output when playing 7.1 tracks.
> 
> --Bob


Depends what he is trying to achieve though. I agree for long term letting the D2v do all the processing is preferable.

But if he is just trying to compare AnalogDir to AnalogDSP to see how transparent the D2v's ADC-DAC process is then the easiest course would be to default all the D2v settings and use the OPPO's distance and level trims. Then it's a simple matter of switching between AnalogDir and AnalogDSP and listening.


Cheers


----------



## dmusoke


Thanks guys very much ...

 

First, as my original post said, the Oppo is set to Large and all speaker distances are at the default 12ft with trims set to 0. DTS Neo:6 says off.

 

But if something was off in the Oppo setup, it would show up on both the XLR and MCH outputs. Like i said, the XLRs image fine, but the L/R from the MCH outs seem off.

 

I will use the phase check tests on one of the HD test disks i have...

 

Thanks for the help so far...

 

- David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No. The XLR only respond to those settings if Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT is set, in which case you should not be using the LF/RF from the normal multi-channel set.

--Bob


----------



## perioms

Last night I watched the movie "Total Recall" with the german DolbyTrueHD track. Always when my D2v shows the message of "Dialog Normalization" I was losing audio for a short moment.

I am using an Oppo 93 with bitstream enabled. How can I change my settings?


----------



## perioms

It seem to be a general problem with the Dolby HD track in the extended cut version of the movie.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22752506
> 
> 
> Last night I watched the movie "Total Recall" with the german DolbyTrueHD track. Always when my D2v shows the message of "Dialog Normalization" I was losing audio for a short moment.
> 
> I am using an Oppo 93 with bitstream enabled. How can I change my settings?



Dialog Normalization is metadata contained within the Dolby track you are playing.

The D2v is only displaying the meta data info as information, You cannot control it.

It has no effect that you should hear and does not compress the dynamics in any way.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22752540
> 
> 
> It seem to be a general problem with the Dolby HD track in the extended cut version of the movie.



Correct, I experienced this last night and read that the audio drop outs are on the disc itself.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22750759
> 
> 
> No other surround modes applied to the stereo signal(No THX, PLIIx, etc). When 5.1 is selected on the stereo signal, all channels show up on screen, i.e L,C,R,SL,SR. Is this normal?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Analog-Direct ---> After loading factory defaults, both XLR and RCA sound identical without the image shifts i observed before.
> 
> 
> 2. Analog-DSP(ARC turned off)  ----> both XLR and RCA sound identical without the image shifts i observed before.
> 
> 
> 3. Analog-DSP (after uploading my ARC solution) ---> Image shift between 2CH & MCH returns !
> 
> I have separate configurations for Movie(MCH) and Music(2CH) so maybe that's the cause?
> 
> 
> 4. After changing all configurations to Music for both 2CH & MCH, the image shift is still intact !
> 
> 
> Not sure what could be wrong here ...



dmusoke


Something about what you describe is causing me problems understanding, so if you do not mind let's go thru this again and if I state something incorrect you clarify and straighten me out


We know you have the OPPO set up correctly to feed a correct digital signal to the Anthem.


Select a source and use Analog Direct. Your source is CD or DVD ? or 2 Chan ? Audio sounds OK with an image centered and not spread across the sound field.


Select a source and use Analog DSP. Your source is CD or DVD ? Or 2 Chan ? ARC is turned off. Audio sounds exactly like Analog Direct above.


Select a source and use Analog DSP Your source is CD or DVD. You turn ARC ON and now the 2 channel stereo image is spread across the sound field and not centered ?


What I do not understand Is where you are selecting the multi channel while playing a stereo signal without any post processing. I do not think this is possible ?

You would have selected a Mode preset and a 2 channel digital signal with a multi channel configuration in ARC would want some post processing MODE applied.


----------



## MACCA350

Keep in mind that the D2v's distance settings are active in AnalogDSP and are bypassed in AnalogDir(as is everything bar master volume and level trims). The most likely culprit of a shift in image(correlated phase) is a difference in level trims or distance settings.


Other than that, investigate what Bob is talking about.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22753350
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22750759
> 
> 
> No other surround modes applied to the stereo signal(No THX, PLIIx, etc). When 5.1 is selected on the stereo signal, all channels show up on screen, i.e L,C,R,SL,SR. Is this normal?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Analog-Direct ---> After loading factory defaults, both XLR and RCA sound identical without the image shifts i observed before.
> 
> 
> 2. Analog-DSP(ARC turned off)  ----> both XLR and RCA sound identical without the image shifts i observed before.
> 
> 
> 3. Analog-DSP (after uploading my ARC solution) ---> Image shift between 2CH & MCH returns !
> 
> I have separate configurations for Movie(MCH) and Music(2CH) so maybe that's the cause?
> 
> 
> 4. After changing all configurations to Music for both 2CH & MCH, the image shift is still intact !
> 
> 
> Not sure what could be wrong here ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dmusoke
> 
> 
> Something about what you describe is causing me problems understanding, so if you do not mind let's go thru this again and if I state something incorrect you clarify and straighten me out
> 
> 
> We know you have the OPPO set up correctly to feed a correct digital signal to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Select a source and use Analog Direct. Your source is CD or DVD ? or 2 Chan ? Audio sounds OK with an image centered and not spread across the sound field.
> 
> 
> Select a source and use Analog DSP. Your source is CD or DVD ? Or 2 Chan ? ARC is turned off. Audio sounds exactly like Analog Direct above.
> 
> 
> Select a source and use Analog DSP Your source is CD or DVD. You turn ARC ON and now the 2 channel stereo image is spread across the sound field and not centered ?
> 
> 
> What I do not understand Is where you are selecting the multi channel while playing a stereo signal without any post processing. I do not think this is possible ?
> 
> You would have selected a Mode preset and a 2 channel digital signal with a multi channel configuration in ARC would want some post processing MODE applied.
Click to expand...


The OPPO he's using has dedicated stereo outputs available as both XLR and RCA. It also has 7.1 channel Analog outs as RCA only (which can be set to 5.1 down-mix). Normally these are independent, but the dedicated stereo outs can be reconfigured for use in place of the normal LF/RF of the multi-channel set. The speaker adjustments in the OPPO only affect the multi-channel set -- which will include the dedicated stereo outs if they are reconfigured for use in place of the normal LF/RF. However, he says he has the speaker configuration settings in the OPPO set to have no affect (speakers Large, equidistant, and with 0dB volume trim).


And it appears he is using the XLR stereo outputs in their normal, independent configuration: Stereo Signal = DOWN MIX STEREO in the OPPO.


Evidently he is comparing XLR into the 2-channel XLR input against 5.1 Analog into the 6-channel RCA input -- while playing stereo content in either case -- and finding an imaging problem when he uses the 5.1 Analog if, and only if, ARC is active -- a problem that does NOT happen when using the XLR stereo.


In the case of the XLR stereo he would need to select Stereo Audio Mode in the Anthem. In the case of the 5.1 Analog he would need to select NONE Audio Mode in the Anthem. With ARC active, that would mean LF/RF/Sub are active for output -- other speakers silent.


The key symptom is that he's hearing an imaging problem with ARC active on the 6-channel input -- but NOT with ARC turned off for the 6-channel input, or with ARC active on the 2-channel input.


It could be his ARC solution is bad in one way or another, but we'd have to explain how ARC applied to the XLR 2-ch input is reacting differently to ARC applied to the RCA 6-channel input -- with stereo content in both cases.


DMUSOKE, if any of the above is contrary to what you are actually trying to do, you'll need to clarify what you are actually doing.

--Bob


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22750759
> 
> 
> No other surround modes applied to the stereo signal(No THX, PLIIx, etc). When 5.1 is selected on the stereo signal, all channels show up on screen, i.e L,C,R,SL,SR. Is this normal?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Analog-Direct ---> After loading factory defaults, both XLR and RCA sound identical without the image shifts i observed before.
> 
> 
> 2. Analog-DSP(ARC turned off)  ----> both XLR and RCA sound identical without the image shifts i observed before.
> 
> 
> 3. Analog-DSP (after uploading my ARC solution) ---> Image shift between 2CH & MCH returns !
> 
> I have separate configurations for Movie(MCH) and Music(2CH) so maybe that's the cause?
> 
> 
> 4. After changing all configurations to Music for both 2CH & MCH, the image shift is still intact !
> 
> 
> Not sure what could be wrong here ...



If I'm not mistaken, ARC doesn't compensate for phase/delay outside of the user adjusted speaker distances, correct? The only other room correction I'm familiar with is MCACC, where phase/delay correction is given priority in the calculations with trim levels/EQ a strong 2nd priority. So, with ARC engaged in MCH, it should only be adjusting speaker trim levels and EQ, right?


David, do you get the same image shift with listening to 2 channel through HDMI with ARC engaged? Do you get the same shift applying your ARC Movie settings to your ARC Music settings?


----------



## Stevetd

Hello All,


I just got my 50v back from Anthem with with a fresh HDMI board. I assume they installed the latest firmware? Wondering that made me realize that I forgot to backup my settings before sending it off!!







Do they reinstall or keep the settings that you have in place when they install a new board? I was thinking that I had a back up but, it was on a laptop that had a hard drive failure...


Also I will probably need to do a full "re-ARC"







and I know all that info is on page one but, I was hoping there is a simpler x-step guide somewhere for doing ARC now. I searched this thread but didn't find one.


One more thing if someone would be so kind. I have a D2v in my downstairs HT and figured while I was at it I'd redo ARC in it too. I have two JL F212's along with two subs in my powered mains (DefTech 7001's). What's the best procedure for setting those up? I've never been able to get them quite right it seems.


Thanks!


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22754653
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I just got my 50v back from Anthem with with a fresh HDMI board. I assume they installed the latest firmware? Wondering that made me realize that I forgot to backup my settings before sending it off!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do they reinstall or keep the settings that you have in place when they install a new board? I was thinking that I had a back up but, it was on a laptop that had a hard drive failure...
> 
> Also I will probably need to do a full "re-ARC"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I know all that info is on page one but, I was hoping there is a simpler x-step guide somewhere for doing ARC now. I searched this thread but didn't find one.
> 
> One more thing if someone would be so kind. I have a D2v in my downstairs HT and figured while I was at it I'd redo ARC in it too. I have two JL F212's along with two subs in my powered mains (DefTech 7001's). What's the best procedure for setting those up? I've never been able to get them quite right it seems.
> 
> Thanks!



Nice setup, Steve! I'm not going to be of much help here, procedurally, for your sub set up question, except to say that with the capable subs in your Def Techs, I would strongly consider placing your 212s on the side walls or in the rear corners of your room. That should help to minimize any modes and nulls in your room, and create a mechanically smoother response curve. Other than that, if the 212s have their own room correction software, run that first, before running ARC. I would then stick with whatever x-over points ARC defines.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *perioms*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22752506
> 
> 
> Last night I watched the movie "Total Recall" with the german DolbyTrueHD track. Always when my D2v shows the message of "Dialog Normalization" I was losing audio for a short moment.
> 
> I am using an Oppo 93 with bitstream enabled. How can I change my settings?


I suspect that the restart of decoding initiated by the dropout trigger the display of the dialnorm value. The only way to to avoid that is to change the Oppo to output PCM audio.


----------



## agrsiv95

Can someone send me the live video settings editor? I can't seem to find it on Anthems site and would like to try 1080p 48 to my Q750i. I would like to think the D2v would be better and one less step in processing.


Jeremy


ETA: found it in archives under D2 and it doesn't seem to change anything.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22753350
> 
> 
> 
> dmusoke
> 
> 
> Something about what you describe is causing me problems understanding, so if you do not mind let's go thru this again and if I state something incorrect you clarify and straighten me out


 

Stew, i have no issues with the 2CH as it images the same as the HDMI input so i assume both are fine. Its the MCH L/R that seems out of place. How would you want me to proceed with the test to compare the 2CH with the L/R of the MCH outs? Sorry if this seems like a dim-witted question ...

 

I've also noticed another anomaly (???) from the beginning but didn't want to bring it up for fear of mudding up my issues at hand. When i toggle between ARC on and ARC off for any digital or analog input 2CH source to the anthem, i really hear no difference in sound. I should be able to hear something, right?

 

My living room is damped on the heavy side with these bass traps below in the corners and all over the upper corner walls.



I also have mid and high frequency traps placed at 1st reflection points of my L/R mains (Martin-Logan Spires electrostatic speakers).


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22751445
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22750759
> 
> 
> 3. Analog-DSP (after uploading my ARC solution) ---> Image shift between 2CH & MCH returns !
> 
> I have separate configurations for Movie(MCH) and Music(2CH) so maybe that's the cause?
> 
> 
> 4. After changing all configurations to Music for both 2CH & MCH, the image shift is still intact !
> 
> 
> Not sure what could be wrong here ...
> 
> 
> 
> Check your distance and level trim settings. If they are set in the player then default them in the D2v, if they are set in both then the ones in the D2v will be active when in Analog-DSP, in which case the combination of both will be incorrect and throw off your imaging.
> 
> 
> Cheers
Click to expand...

 

Settings default in the Oppo whose speakers are set to Large. All bass management is done by the D2v.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22758211
> 
> 
> Stew, i have no issues with the 2CH as it images the same as the HDMI input so i assume both are fine. Its the MCH L/R that seems out of place. How would you want me to proceed with the test to compare the 2CH with the L/R of the MCH outs? Sorry if this seems like a dim-witted question ...
> 
> 
> I've also noticed another anomaly (???) from the beginning but didn't want to bring it up for fear of mudding up my issues at hand. When i toggle between ARC on and ARC off for any digital or analog input 2CH source to the anthem, i really hear no difference in sound. I should be able to hear something, right?
> 
> 
> My living room is damped on the heavy side with these bass traps below in the corners and all over the upper corner walls.
> 
> 
> 
> I also have mid and high frequency traps placed at 1st reflection points of my L/R mains (Martin-Logan Spires electrostatic speakers).



What brand of bass traps are these?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22752496
> 
> 
> No. The XLR only respond to those settings if Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT is set, in which case you should not be using the LF/RF from the normal multi-channel set.
> 
> --Bob


 

That's news to me. The XLR's do not respond to the trim settings if i'm set to 5.1 even though all outputs are active at the same time?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22758275
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What brand of bass traps are these?
Click to expand...

 

http://www.readyacoustics.com/bass_traps_diy.html

 

They come in different cloth colors and side colors. They are called the Chameleon SuperBass Traps...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22754189
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> dmusoke
> 
> 
> Something about what you describe is causing me problems understanding, so if you do not mind let's go thru this again and if I state something incorrect you clarify and straighten me out
> 
> 
> We know you have the OPPO set up correctly to feed a correct digital signal to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Select a source and use Analog Direct. Your source is CD or DVD ? or 2 Chan ? Audio sounds OK with an image centered and not spread across the sound field.
> 
> 
> Select a source and use Analog DSP. Your source is CD or DVD ? Or 2 Chan ? ARC is turned off. Audio sounds exactly like Analog Direct above.
> 
> 
> Select a source and use Analog DSP Your source is CD or DVD. You turn ARC ON and now the 2 channel stereo image is spread across the sound field and not centered ?
> 
> 
> What I do not understand Is where you are selecting the multi channel while playing a stereo signal without any post processing. I do not think this is possible ?
> 
> You would have selected a Mode preset and a 2 channel digital signal with a multi channel configuration in ARC would want some post processing MODE applied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The OPPO he's using has dedicated stereo outputs available as both XLR and RCA. It also has 7.1 channel Analog outs as RCA only (which can be set to 5.1 down-mix). Normally these are independent, but the dedicated stereo outs can be reconfigured for use in place of the normal LF/RF of the multi-channel set. The speaker adjustments in the OPPO only affect the multi-channel set -- which will include the dedicated stereo outs if they are reconfigured for use in place of the normal LF/RF(*Wasn't aware of this!!!*). However, he says he has the speaker configuration settings in the OPPO set to have no affect (speakers Large, equidistant, and with 0dB volume trim).*Yes, Correct!*
> 
> 
> And it appears he is using the XLR stereo outputs in their normal, independent configuration: Stereo Signal = DOWN MIX STEREO in the OPPO (*Yes, Correct!*).
> 
> 
> Evidently he is comparing XLR into the 2-channel XLR input against 5.1 Analog into the 6-channel RCA input -- while playing stereo content in either case -- and finding an imaging problem when he uses the 5.1 Analog if, and only if, ARC is active -- a problem that does NOT happen when using the XLR stereo. *Yes, Correct!*
> 
> 
> In the case of the XLR stereo he would need to select Stereo Audio Mode in the Anthem(*Yes, Correct!*). In the case of the 5.1 Analog he would need to select NONE Audio Mode in the Anthem(*Yes, Correct!*). With ARC active, that would mean LF/RF/Sub are active for output -- other speakers silent.
> 
> 
> The key symptom is that he's hearing an imaging problem with ARC active on the 6-channel input -- but NOT with ARC turned off for the 6-channel input (*No, Incorrect. It seems 6-CH outs behave the same w/wo ARC. The image shift is there regardless of ARC mode*), or with ARC active on the 2-channel input(*Yes, Correct!*).
> 
> 
> It could be his ARC solution is bad in one way or another, but we'd have to explain how ARC applied to the XLR 2-ch input is reacting differently to ARC applied to the RCA 6-channel input -- with stereo content in both cases.
> 
> 
> DMUSOKE, if any of the above is contrary to what you are actually trying to do, you'll need to clarify what you are actually doing(*Please see above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *).
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22754321
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39360#post_22750759
> 
> 
> No other surround modes applied to the stereo signal(No THX, PLIIx, etc). When 5.1 is selected on the stereo signal, all channels show up on screen, i.e L,C,R,SL,SR. Is this normal?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Analog-Direct ---> After loading factory defaults, both XLR and RCA sound identical without the image shifts i observed before.
> 
> 
> 2. Analog-DSP(ARC turned off)  ----> both XLR and RCA sound identical without the image shifts i observed before.
> 
> 
> 3. Analog-DSP (after uploading my ARC solution) ---> Image shift between 2CH & MCH returns !
> 
> I have separate configurations for Movie(MCH) and Music(2CH) so maybe that's the cause?
> 
> 
> 4. After changing all configurations to Music for both 2CH & MCH, the image shift is still intact !
> 
> 
> Not sure what could be wrong here ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I'm not mistaken, ARC doesn't compensate for phase/delay outside of the user adjusted speaker distances, correct? The only other room correction I'm familiar with is MCACC, where phase/delay correction is given priority in the calculations with trim levels/EQ a strong 2nd priority. So, with ARC engaged in MCH, it should only be adjusting speaker trim levels and EQ, right?
> 
> 
> David, do you get the same image shift with listening to 2 channel through HDMI with ARC engaged? Do you get the same shift applying your ARC Movie settings to your ARC Music settings?
Click to expand...

 

Thanks Boyce:

 

Any engagement or dis-engagement of ARC, whether through 2CH XLR or HDMI doesn't shift the image one bit. I applied my movie settings to my music settings and the problem seems to remain.

 

Granted, i've only tested the image shift using one CD for now (Jackie Evanko,"O Holy Night") but i don't see why it would be the cause of what i'm hearing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22758406
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> The key symptom is that he's hearing an imaging problem with ARC active on the 6-channel input -- but NOT with ARC turned off for the 6-channel input (*No, Incorrect. It seems 6-CH outs behave the same w/wo ARC. The image shift is there regardless of ARC mode*), or with ARC active on the 2-channel input(*Yes, Correct!*).
> 
> 
> . . . .



OK, that's very different. That let's ARC off the hook, which is good.


The first thing to do is to check your cabling between the OPPO and the Anthem. You would get this effect if you accidentally swapped Center with either LF or RF. Obviously check both ends of each cable.


Next swap the LF and RF plugs at the back of the OPPO. Does the "problem" shift to the other side of Center? If NOT, then the problem is external to the OPPO -- cables, the Anthem, the amps or the speakers. Eliminate the cables by putting the plugs back to normal on the back of the OPPO and now swapping the LF/RF inputs on the back of the Anthem. Again if the problem does NOT shift to the other side of Center then the problem is after the cables.


You could have a cable which has the wires reversed (a manufacturing error), or a bad solder joint.


If the plug swap indicates the problem is present at the outputs of the OPPO, then do a complete reset of the OPPO:


1) Download a new copy of the latest firmware to a USB stick. (There's new Public Beta firmware that just came out.)

2) In the OPPO, go into Setup and Erase Persistent Storage. Then Reset defaults -- the full reset, not the one that preserves accounts.

3) Power cycle the player and re-install the firmware from USB.

4) Power up and accept the Recommended Reset that's offered.

5) Then go into Setup and once again Erase Persistent Storage, and also once again do a complete Reset. (The Recommended Reset is not a complete Reset.)

6) Power down the player, then pull the power cord for about 10 seconds. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.

7) Power up and re-enter your personal settings.

8) Power down once more -- settings are saved during power down.


Test again and see if the problem persists. If so, contact OPPO as your player likely needs warranty service.


If the plug swap indicates the problem is AFTER the cables, then the thing to do is try a different source into the LF/RF inputs of the Anthem's multi-channel set, just to confirm. This doesn't have to be a multi-channel Source. It can be a stereo Source with the other input jacks simply unused.


Again you can compare the LF/RF inputs of the 6-CH set wired normally vs. wired swapped to confirm the imaging problem shifts to the other side.


Presuming you still hear the problem, and given that you've already tested after resetting the Anthem, you'll likely need to call Anthem to arrange for service.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke


^ Thanks Bob ...will do. Am i safe to say you do not experience the same strange effect between 2CH and 6CH in your setup?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22758621
> 
> 
> ^ Thanks Bob ...will do. Am i safe to say you do not experience the same strange effect between 2CH and 6CH in your setup?



Correct!


However, I suspect there are still some bugs in the OPPO which keep settings changes from taking the expected effect. Thus the reset is a good idea if you discover the player is acting strangely.

--Bob


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22758334
> 
> http://www.readyacoustics.com/bass_traps_diy.html
> 
> 
> They come in different cloth colors and side colors. They are called the Chameleon SuperBass Traps...



Thanks, David!


I'm still curious about your imaging problem, and it's interesting that Bob is now suggesting it could be cabling too... I hope it's that simple... sometimes the obvious isn't so obvious. Good luck. I get my 105 on Wednesday, and will try to recreate your issue if it's not resolved by then.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22759473
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22758334
> 
> http://www.readyacoustics.com/bass_traps_diy.html
> 
> 
> They come in different cloth colors and side colors. They are called the Chameleon SuperBass Traps...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, David!
> 
> 
> I'm still curious about your imaging problem, and it's interesting that Bob is now suggesting it could be cabling too... I hope it's that simple... sometimes the obvious isn't so obvious. Good luck. I get my 105 on Wednesday, and will try to recreate your issue if it's not resolved by then.
Click to expand...

 

Bob has mentioned in the 105 forum a bug ( http://www.avsforum.com/t/1439524/official-oppo-bdp-105-owners-thread/1980#post_22759063 ) in how the Oppo down-mixes the analog outs. This bug is in the current released FW as well as the new beta released today. Oppo is aware of it, he says. he has provided a temporary workaround for it until its fixed. I'm not sure if its related to what i'm experiencing or not but hope so.

 

Anyways, I will test again tomorrow once i install the new Oppo beta FW to see if it cures my issues...

 

Congrats in your new purchase. You'll love its sonics for sure







...


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22759745
> 
> 
> Bob has mentioned in the 105 forum a bug ( http://www.avsforum.com/t/1439524/official-oppo-bdp-105-owners-thread/1980#post_22759063 ) in how the Oppo down-mixes the analog outs. This bug is in the current released FW as well as the new beta released today. Oppo is aware of it, he says. he has provided a temporary workaround for it until its fixed. I'm not sure if its related to what i'm experiencing or not but hope so.
> 
> 
> Anyways, I will test again tomorrow once i install the new Oppo beta FW to see if it cures my issues...
> 
> 
> Congrats in your new purchase. You'll love its sonics for sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I saw that post on the OPPO forum and wondered if it might be related to what you are experiencing. I hope so too. I won't be using the MCH analog outs, just the XLRs, but will play with the MCH also if you're issue is not resolved by the time I get mine.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I doubt it's related, since the bug affects the proper function of the Dedicated Stereo Outputs, and when DMUSOKE is experiencing the problem he's using just the RCA jacks from the normal, multi-channel outputs of the OPPO.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22759774
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22759745
> 
> 
> Bob has mentioned in the 105 forum a bug ( http://www.avsforum.com/t/1439524/official-oppo-bdp-105-owners-thread/1980#post_22759063 ) in how the Oppo down-mixes the analog outs. This bug is in the current released FW as well as the new beta released today. Oppo is aware of it, he says. he has provided a temporary workaround for it until its fixed. I'm not sure if its related to what i'm experiencing or not but hope so.
> 
> 
> Anyways, I will test again tomorrow once i install the new Oppo beta FW to see if it cures my issues...
> 
> 
> Congrats in your new purchase. You'll love its sonics for sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw that post on the OPPO forum and wondered if it might be related to what you are experiencing. I hope so too. I won't be using the MCH analog outs, just the XLRs, but will play with the MCH also if you're issue is not resolved by the time I get mine.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the help Boyce. I'm starting to think i have may have a faulty 'whatever' in my system. When ready to test, please make sure that:

 

1.  You have 2 configurations in ARC. A multi-channel one for moves and a 2.1 for the XLRs and your sub for the music configuration.

 

2.   AnalgDSP mode is selected for both movie and music in the anthem setup menu.

 

3.   That you set the XLR gain to -6dB in the Anthem menu(Analog Input Levels -> 2-Ch: -6.0dB.  This will balance the XLRs output with the RCAs since the XLRs have twice the voltage than the RCA, hence reduce their gain by 6dB.I'm sorry if you know all this ...


----------



## agrsiv95

Does the video settings editor work with the D2v? Any changes made in the editor do not show up in the menu.


Jeremy


----------



## myc52002

Hi all. This thread is getting so big I just can't find anything in it any more. So what I need is just a clarification as to what I am seeing with this setup and that I am interpreting it correctly. This relates to DTS-HD MA and what is showing on my D2v display when playing a BR with a DTS-HD MA 5.1 track. The Oppo is set for secondary audio off, HDMI - LPCM. The Oppo display will show playing DTS HD MA and the D2V shows receiving PCM but as 5.1DPLIIX. Pressing select shows the correct 5.1 channels being received and outputting as 7.1.


So that means that I am in fact receiving the DTS HD MA track but in a PCM format right? When I switch to bitstream the D2V display shows DTS HD MA and 5.1DPLIIX so I want to be sure that these are effectively the same track but just determining which source is doing the decode right? I am running firmware 2.10 currently and up to date on the Oppo.


Thanks!


PS I accidentally started a new thread with this question so if someone can delete that thread feel free to do so. sorry....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22761479
> 
> 
> Hi all. This thread is getting so big I just can't find anything in it any more. So what I need is just a clarification as to what I am seeing with this setup and that I am interpreting it correctly. This relates to DTS-HD MA and what is showing on my D2v display when playing a BR with a DTS-HD MA 5.1 track. The Oppo is set for secondary audio off, HDMI - LPCM. The Oppo display will show playing DTS HD MA and the D2V shows receiving PCM but as 5.1DPLIIX. Pressing select shows the correct 5.1 channels being received and outputting as 7.1.
> 
> 
> So that means that I am in fact receiving the DTS HD MA track but in a PCM format right? When I switch to bitstream the D2V display shows DTS HD MA and 5.1DPLIIX so I want to be sure that these are effectively the same track but just determining which source is doing the decode right? I am running firmware 2.10 currently and up to date on the Oppo.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> PS I accidentally started a new thread with this question so if someone can delete that thread feel free to do so. sorry....



Yep, you've got it right. When you output LPCM the OPPO does the decoding. When you output Bitstream the D2v decodes that to LPCM itself.

--Bob


----------



## myc52002

Excellent. Thanks Bob as always.


----------



## p.las

Hey.

I am running firmware 3.09 on my avm50v. Det signal feed nu oppo 83. I have not having issues with this firmware before now. When the signal is pcm from the player, the volume is Way to low....about 10db. AIX test disk confirm this. The problem is there whit ALL multichannel pcm. Am i the only one that have this issue.? This has not allways been a problem. For about three weeks ago, i watch total recall, and on that film there is a'lot off audio dropouts, when it is bitstream. So i set the player to output pcm. And on that moment the low volume wasent there. Any idea?


----------



## dmusoke


Read Me - v3.xx Upgrades.txt 15k .txt file

 

 

The low volume problem was fixed in beta version 3.09c. We have are on beta version 3.09f. I'd suggest you upload to the latest beta as it has many fixes from v3.09.

 

See FW version control attachment ....







!


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22762999
> 
> Read Me - v3.xx Upgrades.txt 15k .txt file
> 
> 
> 
> The low volume problem was fixed in beta version 3.09c. We have are on beta version 3.09f. I'd suggest you upload to the latest beta as it has many fixes from v3.09.
> 
> 
> See FW version control attachment ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !



I have the same volume issue, but have been to scared to do a firmware update!







I've never done a firmware update on any of my gear! Guess I need to suck it up and just do it.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Bob et al.,


I've got a really drastic problem out of the blue with my D2V. I am running 2.10, and have been for over a year. Haven't touched software at all. Nor made any hardware changes. In the middle of watching football today, the Center channel sound went WAY WAY down, to the point that I could no longer hear the announcers, or any dialogue. When it would go to commercial during the broadcast, I could hear the commercials because most of the dialogue during commercials is in the left and right speaker. However, anything leveraging the center for dialogue/announcing, does not come through. Now again, I have made NO changes at all in my system in over a year, and everything has been working perfectly the whole time. I thought I had a DirecTV/Tivo issue, until I found the same problem through other sources (Oppo Bluray, separate cable DVR, etc.). The weird thing is that the Center channel does give sound, only VERY VERY low levels that are inaudible for all intents and purposes in the listening room, even if I jack up the Center to +10.0 on the D2V. You can just barely hear the commentators through the center, and so all I get are the surround noises, and front left and right. It's so annoying, this sudden problem out of nowhere, it's ridiculous. A Blu-Ray disc playing on the Oppo yields the same problem. THinking it had to be the D2V getting crossed up over HDMI or something, I disconnected all HDMI and powered the D2V completely off and disabled its rear switch. I waited 10 minutes, several time, turned on the rear switch, then powered on the D2V, and still no real full center channel. The sound is there in every other area except the center. I have an A5 5-channel amp powering my main room, so I tried powercycling that as well, thinking it might be a bad channel on the 5-channel amp. I can't figure out whether it's the D2V or the A5 that is the problem. I have tried Resetting to Factory Defaults on the D2V, then reloading User Settings, and still I have the problem. I never mess with any settings on the D2V anymore, nothing changed at all - just sitting on the couch, the wife and I heard the broadcast of the game just drop right out - we could still hear the cheering in the rear channels and all, but no center dialogue/announcing. I have tried reseatting speaker cables for the center, powering the A5 off/on/unplugging, still I have the problem. Been troubleshooting this for the better part of 3 hours, any ideas anyone?


Thanks for the help!

-Brian


----------



## dmusoke


1. Disconnected and reconnected the MCH and XLR cabling between Oppo and Anthem again. Problem still persists.

2. Swappin the LF/RF cables on the Oppo didn't help. Problem still persists.

3. Swapped the LF/RF on the Anthem input and problem still persists.

4. Swapped the LF/RF on the Anthem outputs (XLR connections) into my amp and the sound 'changed' into another kind of odd. Anyways, it didn't fix the problem.

5.  Installed new beta FW and followed detailed steps above(Thanks Bob!) and repeated steps 1-4 above. Nothing changed.

 

6. I swapped out the 105 and unpacked my Audiogon bound BDP-95 and repeated steps 1-4. Results were identical which proved the 105 is not the problem. BTW, i used new sets of IC cables for the 95 tests as i didn't want to re-wire my rack if i didn't have to.

 

At this point, i re-inserted the 105 in the rack and removed all interconnect cables between Oppo/Anthem/Power amplifier except LF/RF pairs only. Havin ruled out the Oppo as a possible problem cause, it then leaves the Anthem/ARC as the possible cause.

 

This is where thins ot interesting. I noticed my Anthem behaves in an odd way when using some of its parameters. By this, i mean i toggled the processing mode of the MCH input between Analog DSP and Analog Direct produced *NO* change in sound. Remember i'm usin a stereo source.

 

Repeating the same for the 2CH input produced the usual difference between the ARC'd and un ARC'd sound. Switching over again to the MCH and still *NO* discernable change in sound when changing processing modes between Analog Direct & Analog DSP.

 

When i randomly futz around the setup,menu, the MCH (Analog DSP mode) seems to 'cure' itself for a while. I then continue to compare it with the 2CH (Analog DSP mode) and then it 'dies' as before. This back and forth goes can go on forever... Somehow ARC doesn't 'stick' or work right in MCH.

 

The MCH sound i hear (whether using Analog DSP/Direct) is *IDENTICAL* to the 2CH sound when i choose Analog-Direct(phasey like vocal imaging). So the sound i've been hearing from the MCH inputs was never truly ARC'd to begin with. This was the suprise to me! I don't know whether its a bad eeprom that is going bad or something else going on...I reloaded FW before, two versions v3.09c and beta 3.09f with no change in results. I will try to flash erase and see if this helps.

 

Another question ... when i toggle on/off the Room EQ option and i hear no change in sound regardless whether its analogs or HDMI input. Isn't this option supposed to turn ARC off and on?

 

 

Thanks for the help Bob and others who've stuck with me in trying to solve my problems with my setup

 

- David.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22763920
> 
> 
> Bob et al.,
> 
> 
> I've got a really drastic problem out of the blue with my D2V. I am running 2.10, and have been for over a year. Haven't touched software at all. Nor made any hardware changes. In the middle of watching football today, the Center channel sound went WAY WAY down, to the point that I could no longer hear the announcers, or any dialogue. When it would go to commercial during the broadcast, I could hear the commercials because most of the dialogue during commercials is in the left and right speaker. However, anything leveraging the center for dialogue/announcing, does not come through. Now again, I have made NO changes at all in my system in over a year, and everything has been working perfectly the whole time. I thought I had a DirecTV/Tivo issue, until I found the same problem through other sources (Oppo Bluray, separate cable DVR, etc.). The weird thing is that the Center channel does give sound, only VERY VERY low levels that are inaudible for all intents and purposes in the listening room, even if I jack up the Center to +10.0 on the D2V. You can just barely hear the commentators through the center, and so all I get are the surround noises, and front left and right. It's so annoying, this sudden problem out of nowhere, it's ridiculous. A Blu-Ray disc playing on the Oppo yields the same problem. THinking it had to be the D2V getting crossed up over HDMI or something, I disconnected all HDMI and powered the D2V completely off and disabled its rear switch. I waited 10 minutes, several time, turned on the rear switch, then powered on the D2V, and still no real full center channel. The sound is there in every other area except the center. I have an A5 5-channel amp powering my main room, so I tried powercycling that as well, thinking it might be a bad channel on the 5-channel amp. I can't figure out whether it's the D2V or the A5 that is the problem. I have tried Resetting to Factory Defaults on the D2V, then reloading User Settings, and still I have the problem. I never mess with any settings on the D2V anymore, nothing changed at all - just sitting on the couch, the wife and I heard the broadcast of the game just drop right out - we could still hear the cheering in the rear channels and all, but no center dialogue/announcing. I have tried reseatting speaker cables for the center, powering the A5 off/on/unplugging, still I have the problem. Been troubleshooting this for the better part of 3 hours, any ideas anyone?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help!
> 
> -Brian


 

Brian ...the problem could be the center speaker is dying as well, so you have 3 possible causes of failure. The Anthem center output, A5 center channel or the center speaker. I'd venture to say its the speaker. First thing i'd do is move the center speaker over to the right/left speaker, connect it using the right/left speaker wires and see if it plays. If it doesn't play, then the speaker is bad. If it works, then the center amplifer channel or the D2v is the problem.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22763266
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22762999
> 
> Read Me - v3.xx Upgrades.txt 15k .txt file
> 
> 
> 
> The low volume problem was fixed in beta version 3.09c. We have are on beta version 3.09f. I'd suggest you upload to the latest beta as it has many fixes from v3.09.
> 
> 
> See FW version control attachment ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same volume issue, but have been to scared to do a firmware update!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've never done a firmware update on any of my gear! Guess I need to suck it up and just do it.
Click to expand...

LIke the Nike commercial says  ..."Just do it!". Really, Anthem has increased the reliability of its FW update process a whole lot. I've had my D2v bricked during this process twice. Once, i had to ship it back to Canada from Cali and the 2nd time, they sent me a programming kit where i had to disassemble the D2v and attach a programming cable to an Atmel micro-controller inside the D2v. Boy...that was fun!


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22763971
> 
> 
> Brian ...the problem could be the center speaker is dying as well, so you have 3 possible causes of failure. The Anthem center output, A5 center channel or the center speaker. I'd venture to say its the speaker. First thing i'd do is move the center speaker over to the right/left speaker, connect it using the right/left speaker wires and see if it plays. If it doesn't play, then the speaker is bad. If it works, then the center amplifer channel or the D2v is the problem.



Thanks, I'll try the speaker swapping with the right front for instance tomorrow AM. I agree that the speaker would be the best thing here to be the culprit - it's part of my B&W set, it's the HTM7 center I believe, with my 703's for front left/right. I could at least swap that pretty easily while getting it repaired if needed. Conversely, if it's the D2V, I am dreading what that would entail - you're talking total extraction of nearly every component in a blind work space, it's no easy task. The A5 amp would not be nearly as bad to take out of the rack, though worse still than the center speaker. I'll start with the speaker and go from there - the reason I don't think it's that though, is that the speaker still outputs sound, just at a greatly reduced volume. But it's got no scratchiness, no sound like there's a short or something, just low output volume. I would think if a speaker is dying, it would simply die, not reduce in volume like that. But who knows.


Thanks again for the guidance, I'll post my results as soon as I'm able to swap the speaker tomorrow. Not sure what I'd do for troubleshooting next, to isolate the amp from the D2V.


-Brian


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22764098
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'll try the speaker swapping with the right front for instance tomorrow AM. I agree that the speaker would be the best thing here to be the culprit - it's part of my B&W set, it's the HTM7 center I believe, with my 703's for front left/right. I could at least swap that pretty easily while getting it repaired if needed. Conversely, if it's the D2V, I am dreading what that would entail - you're talking total extraction of nearly every component in a blind work space, it's no easy task. The A5 amp would not be nearly as bad to take out of the rack, though worse still than the center speaker. I'll start with the speaker and go from there - the reason I don't think it's that though, is that the speaker still outputs sound, just at a greatly reduced volume. But it's got no scratchiness, no sound like there's a short or something, just low output volume. I would think if a speaker is dying, it would simply die, not reduce in volume like that. But who knows.
> 
> Thanks again for the guidance, I'll post my results as soon as I'm able to swap the speaker tomorrow. Not sure what I'd do for troubleshooting next, to isolate the amp from the D2V.
> 
> -Brian



After you swap the speaker and get the results, if it's still an issue, swap the center channel lead from your pre/pro to your amp with the right or left channel lead to make sure it's not the amp channel that is going bad.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22762999
> 
> Read Me - v3.xx Upgrades.txt 15k .txt file
> 
> 
> 
> The low volume problem was fixed in beta version 3.09c. We have are on beta version 3.09f. I'd suggest you upload to the latest beta as it has many fixes from v3.09.
> 
> 
> See FW version control attachment ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !



Yes - that was a overall low volume. This is only the case , when it is pcm. If i play the Dolby digital testtonen frem aix test disc, and outputting bitstream , there is no problem. If i set the player to output pcm, the volume gets lower.......i have messured it ti be 20db lower than bitstream


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22764113
> 
> 
> After you swap the speaker and get the results, if it's still an issue, swap the center channel lead from your pre/pro to your amp with the right or left channel lead to make sure it's not the amp channel that is going bad.



Okay, this is weird. As I was about to start isolating the speaker by moving it to the right front speaker cables, I decided to leave things as is and just power everything up and try it again, to make sure the problem still persisted. And voila! The center channel is now back to normal, not only for the DirecTV channels like HBO and ESPN that showed the problem constantly (they use the center for nearly all speaking parts), but also testing with Bluray DTS MA and Dolby TrueHD tracks shows no problem through the Oppo95 input either. Perhaps this was just some sort of weird anomaly??? Rather than tear everything apart over here, I think I'm going to let it ride for now, and see if the problem returns. I recall that yesterday when the problem occurred, the system had been on for about 8 hours straight, so I'll see if maybe somehow the problem comes about after prolonged usage (pointing more to a D2V or A5 problem, not a center channel speaker problem I assume). Hmmmm....the mystery is afoot.


Thanks all, the help is HUGELY appreciated. Any further thoughts welcome of course.


Cheers,

Brian


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22764816
> 
> 
> I recall that yesterday when the problem occurred, the system had been on for about 8 hours straight, so I'll see if maybe somehow the problem comes about after prolonged usage (pointing more to a D2V or A5 problem, not a center channel speaker problem I assume). Hmmmm....the mystery is afoot.
> 
> Thanks all, the help is HUGELY appreciated. Any further thoughts welcome of course.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Brian



When I read your original post and saw something about "blind work space" I immediately flashed on thermal overheating. How is your ventilation around the D2v and the A5?


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22764889
> 
> 
> When I read your original post and saw something about "blind work space" I immediately flashed on thermal overheating. How is your ventilation around the D2v and the A5?



Yeah, I guess "blind" is a bit inaccurate. I have an old Salamander Archetype system, several of them stacked on each other with proper couplers. In total, the height is about 8 feet! And it weighs I would guess about 300 pounds, with all the equipment in the system. It is on these giants machined metal "spring-loaded feet" that are smooth on the bottom, but as it sits on a hardwood floor, it takes some serious work to move the thing out. It is in a little corner of the room, bordered on both sides, but still having free flowing air on about 2 sides (left and front of rack). Hard to explain, but basically, there's a little corner "cubby" where this rack fits right back up against a rear wall and corner bookcase on the side. In any case, air flow is there, and it's been in this position for 9 years (D2 and later D2V being part of it since about 2006). Because one side of the rack directly abuts a window, this old place gets pretty cool thru the window, especially when it's 28 degrees out! So there is some natural cooling provided by a slightly leaky window next to it. No direct sunlight ever hits the rack either in case you're wondering.


-Brian


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22761062
> 
> 
> Does the video settings editor work with the D2v? Any changes made in the editor do not show up in the menu.
> 
> Jeremy



No it doesn't work for resolution or frame rate. It only works for video settings, custom gamma, etc.


You need CustomResolutionManager.exe which is included with the firmware download.


By the way Anthem has not tested it with custom refresh rates so it might be worse than having your projector do the conversion. They also don't support 60i to 24p film (inverse telecine) conversion at all.


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22765274
> 
> 
> No it doesn't work for resolution or frame rate. It only works for video settings, custom gamma, etc.
> 
> You need CustomResolutionManager.exe which is included with the firmware download.
> 
> By the way Anthem has not tested it with custom refresh rates so it might be worse than having your projector do the conversion. They also don't support 60i to 24p film (inverse telecine) conversion at all.



Thanks, I can't find that in 3.09 which is what I have loaded now. I am trying to clean up what seems to be motion blur/judder from the Oppo103 at 24p out.


DrHankz had posted a while back and it is linked in the first post about sending 48 to the Sonys and wondered if this would clean it up at all.


I do have everything set to auto. Video config1 output 1080p24 for the Oppo and video config 2 output 1080p60 for the PS3 and Directv.


Jeremy


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39400_100#post_22765504
> 
> 
> Thanks, I can't find that in 3.09 which is what I have loaded now. I am trying to clean up what seems to be motion blur/judder from the Oppo103 at 24p out.
> 
> DrHankz had posted a while back and it is linked in the first post about sending 48 to the Sonys and wondered if this would clean it up at all.
> 
> I do have everything set to auto. Video config1 output 1080p24 for the Oppo and video config 2 output 1080p60 for the PS3 and Directv.
> 
> Jeremy



That was an OLD SONY PJ that did not support 24fps. It supported 48 fps versus 24 fps.


Everything TODAY supports 24 fps if the source is in 24 fps.


DO NOT TRY TO FORCE 60 fps Material to 24 fps in your Oppo.


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22765796
> 
> 
> That was an OLD SONY PJ that did not support 24fps. It supported 48 fps versus 24 fps.
> 
> Everything TODAY supports 24 fps if the source is in 24 fps.
> 
> DO NOT TRY TO FORCE 60 fps Material to 24 fps in your Oppo.




I understand. I was going to try sending 1080p48 to my Q750i as it is the native output, it does not display 24 out right. I Just changed the Oppo setting to source direct and that helped the panning a bit. Just trying to minimize the processing.


Jeremy


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Brian,

Exactly. This sounds like a case of the Center channel in the amp having gone into low volume "protect" mode, perhaps because it overheated but more commonly because a stray hair of wire shorted the Center speaker cable.


Start by inspecting both ends of the speaker cable lookin for connection tightness and shorts.


Then begin at the D2v and swap the Center and LF plugs at the D2v outputs. If the problem stays in Center speaker then it is something after the D2v. So put those plugs back and move to the next spot which is the inputs to the Amp. Swap Center and LF at the inputs. Keep moving along until you find the change that makes the problem move to LF. The cable or device just behind that last change is the one at fault. If you get all the way to the speaker end of the speaker cables and the problem us STILL in Center, then the Center speaker itself is at fault.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Need some help here. Ready to re-run PBK and ARC after a room remod. Cannot remember how to copy mic cal file from ARC to PBK. Have searched forum to no avail. Ran ARC just to check...no problem but PBK cannot find mic.

thanx

TJG


----------



## AVfile

Source Direct will be 1080p24 for most film-based bluray and HDDVDs. I'm told the new Oppo models and older models with new firmware also do good DVD conversion to 1080p24 but you have to force it (not source direct). When the source is 24p set the Anthem to use the 24p output; otherwise set it to 60p output. This is one area where the user needs to be on the ball.


If it supports 24p at all, the projector must convert 24p to 48p or higher in order to be displayed. 24p to 48p should be a trivial conversion for the projector provided it is not trying to display 60p.


I have tried 48p conversion in the Anthem using CustomResolutionManager to program the exact timing (actually 47.952Hz) but I was getting a double edge on objects during pans so I went to 72p (71.928Hz) and it seems smoother. I'm not sure if this is due to the experimental nature of the software or my projector.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22766369
> 
> 
> Need some help here. Ready to re-run PBK and ARC after a room remod. Cannot remember how to copy mic cal file from ARC to PBK. Have searched forum to no avail. Ran ARC just to check...no problem but PBK cannot find mic.
> 
> thanx
> 
> TJG



Are you using the latest ARC app, V3.0.2, and the latest PBK (whichever that is)? As I recall they had to rush out a fix because one or the other would not work if mic files were present for both of them.


My understanding was that they used separate mic files, and I did not know there was a way to use one mic file for both, but I don't use PBK so I can't really help.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22765504
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22765274
> 
> 
> No it doesn't work for resolution or frame rate. It only works for video settings, custom gamma, etc.
> 
> You need CustomResolutionManager.exe which is included with the firmware download.
> 
> By the way Anthem has not tested it with custom refresh rates so it might be worse than having your projector do the conversion. They also don't support 60i to 24p film (inverse telecine) conversion at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I can't find that in 3.09 which is what I have loaded now. I am trying to clean up what seems to be motion blur/judder from the Oppo103 at 24p out.
> 
> 
> DrHankz had posted a while back and it is linked in the first post about sending 48 to the Sonys and wondered if this would clean it up at all.
> 
> 
> I do have everything set to auto. Video config1 output 1080p24 for the Oppo and video config 2 output 1080p60 for the PS3 and Directv.
> 
> 
> Jeremy
Click to expand...


The Custom Resolution Manager utility is, I believe, only available at this point if you download the Beta "test" firmware folder from Anthem's password protected download page -- i.e., where you would get "test" firmware V3.09f.


If you don't already have access to that, email Anthem Tech Support about what you are trying to do with 48Hz or 72Hz and they'll get you access.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22763944
> 
> 
> 1. Disconnected and reconnected the MCH and XLR cabling between Oppo and Anthem again. Problem still persists.
> 
> 2. Swappin the LF/RF cables on the Oppo didn't help. Problem still persists.
> 
> 3. Swapped the LF/RF on the Anthem input and problem still persists.
> 
> 4. Swapped the LF/RF on the Anthem outputs (XLR connections) into my amp and the sound 'changed' into another kind of odd. Anyways, it didn't fix the problem.
> 
> 5.  Installed new beta FW and followed detailed steps above(Thanks Bob!) and repeated steps 1-4 above. Nothing changed.
> 
> 
> 6. I swapped out the 105 and unpacked my Audiogon bound BDP-95 and repeated steps 1-4. Results were identical which proved the 105 is not the problem. BTW, i used new sets of IC cables for the 95 tests as i didn't want to re-wire my rack if i didn't have to.
> 
> 
> At this point, i re-inserted the 105 in the rack and removed all interconnect cables between Oppo/Anthem/Power amplifier except LF/RF pairs only. Havin ruled out the Oppo as a possible problem cause, it then leaves the Anthem/ARC as the possible cause.
> 
> 
> This is where thins ot interesting. I noticed my Anthem behaves in an odd way when using some of its parameters. By this, i mean i toggled the processing mode of the MCH input between Analog DSP and Analog Direct produced *NO* change in sound. Remember i'm usin a stereo source.
> 
> 
> Repeating the same for the 2CH input produced the usual difference between the ARC'd and un ARC'd sound. Switching over again to the MCH and still *NO* discernable change in sound when changing processing modes between Analog Direct & Analog DSP.
> 
> 
> When i randomly futz around the setup,menu, the MCH (Analog DSP mode) seems to 'cure' itself for a while. I then continue to compare it with the 2CH (Analog DSP mode) and then it 'dies' as before. This back and forth goes can go on forever... Somehow ARC doesn't 'stick' or work right in MCH.
> 
> 
> The MCH sound i hear (whether using Analog DSP/Direct) is *IDENTICAL* to the 2CH sound when i choose Analog-Direct(phasey like vocal imaging). So the sound i've been hearing from the MCH inputs was never truly ARC'd to begin with. This was the suprise to me! I don't know whether its a bad eeprom that is going bad or something else going on...I reloaded FW before, two versions v3.09c and beta 3.09f with no change in results. I will try to flash erase and see if this helps.
> 
> 
> Another question ... when i toggle on/off the Room EQ option and i hear no change in sound regardless whether its analogs or HDMI input. Isn't this option supposed to turn ARC off and on?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help Bob and others who've stuck with me in trying to solve my problems with my setup
> 
> 
> - David.



Sounds like your D2v needs service. Given the symptoms, it appears the failure is at the point of re-digitizing the 6-CH Analog input.


Room EQ for a Source turns ARC on/off for that Source. Whether you will hear an obvious difference depends on how much processing ARC is doing and the particular content you are playing.


If using Analog inputs, ANALOG-DIRECT bypasses ARC, so the Room EQ setting will do nothing.


If using ANALOG-DSP, check the ADC section of Setup to make sure both the 2-Ch and 6-Ch are set to digitize that Analog input at 96KHz.


Use a calibration disc, such as the LPCM test tracks from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, to confirm the basic signal paths are working -- i.e., that the correct speakers and ONLY the correct speakers are getting audio.


Also test with the D2v's internal test tones (Setup > Level Calibration).


It is just possible your ARC setup is corrupted, so re-Upload your ARC solution. A corrupted ARC setup should not affect the cases where ARC is not in use, but this is still a step to try. Go back and make sure Room EQ is OFF afterwards if you want to test again without ARC for a Source.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Bob, et. al;

Yes, latest v of ARC and PBK is 2.01. Have done this before, 5/1/12 to be exact. Had no issues, just moved ARC mic cal files to PBK and all was well. New computer, tried to move CORRECT file to PBK with no success. No mic found. This is driving me crazy, I've done this many times before, at home and at client's houses. I know its somewhere here on this forum but searches come up empty. Help anyone?

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22766706
> 
> 
> Bob, et. al;
> 
> Yes, latest v of ARC and PBK is 2.01. Have done this before, 5/1/12 to be exact. Had no issues, just moved ARC mic cal files to PBK and all was well. New computer, tried to move CORRECT file to PBK with no success. No mic found. This is driving me crazy, I've done this many times before, at home and at client's houses. I know its somewhere here on this forum but searches come up empty. Help anyone?
> 
> TJG



Have you switched to Windows 8? That could be the problem. I'm sorry, but I can't help with your specific question on how to share the mic file. I would imagine it simply involves copying the file to the right location (i.e, where the PBK app itself is installed).


The only other thing I can suggest is to check the owner's thread for the PBK-equipped subs and see if the answer can be found there.


Of course Anthem/Paradigm Tech Support will have the answer when they reopen after the holiday. In the interim, you might try running with ARC only (no PBK).

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

No W 8. As you suggested, running ARC alone. It feels so abandoned........ but maybe someone else will chime in.

TJG


----------



## Apgood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39400_100#post_22766349
> 
> 
> Brian,
> 
> Exactly. This sounds like a case of the Center channel in the amp having gone into low volume "protect" mode, perhaps because it overheated but more commonly because a stray hair of wire shorted the Center speaker cable.
> 
> Start by inspecting both ends of the speaker cable lookin for connection tightness and shorts.
> 
> Then begin at the D2v and swap the Center and LF plugs at the D2v outputs. If the problem stays in Center speaker then it is something after the D2v. So put those plugs back and move to the next spot which is the inputs to the Amp. Swap Center and LF at the inputs. Keep moving along until you find the change that makes the problem move to LF. The cable or device just behind that last change is the one at fault. If you get all the way to the speaker end of the speaker cables and the problem us STILL in Center, then the Center speaker itself is at fault.
> 
> --Bob


I had the exact same problem with my MRX700 where the centre channel would go "quiet" intermittently. Took me about 12 months to realise it was something in the centre speaker slowly dying (toggling the processing modes and resetting settings after firmware updates seemed to fix it for a while so I thought it was the amp).

I replaced it with a different speaker and it's been fine ever since. So if it comes back then my money on the center speaker dying.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

A faulty speaker could definitely put more load on that channel of the amp, leading the amp to go into thermal protect.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

I have an ARC-1 kit that I purchased (for my now dead D2) for sale on ebay and was asked if it will work with an avm-30.

I am pretty sure that the avm-30 does not have the processor power to run ARC, but I'm unclear on which Anthem processors that ARC will work with.


Does ARC work with the avm-40/50's ??


Or just avm-50v, D1, D2 and D2v ??


Tom


----------



## mkaye

still fighting with my D2v

main problem - losing hdmi audio on all hdmi sources (hdmi #1/4/5)- fixed for a few days by removing power or reflashing firmware

2nd - crunching when navigating gui on pvr, mnt or if video changes a lot with volume muted (tried both hdmi outs - same on both)

I just installed a 2nd D2v - same crunching

also when listening to my speakers up close (Studio 100's), definitely some whistling/warbling in the background (amp is Parasound 5-ch) - same on both D2v's

my 1st thought is some sort of ground loop

disconnected cable connection (have a ground isolator already) - no change

all components (except servo 15) are fed from a monster power conditioner

disconnected all rca's - no change


looking for some theories...


mark


display is Anthem LTX-500 (JVC RS20)


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22768495
> 
> 
> still fighting with my D2v
> 
> main problem - losing hdmi audio on all hdmi sources (hdmi #1/4/5)- fixed for a few days by removing power or reflashing firmware
> 
> 2nd - crunching when navigating gui on pvr, mnt or if video changes a lot with volume muted (tried both hdmi outs - same on both)
> 
> I just installed a 2nd D2v - same crunching
> 
> also when listening to my speakers up close (Studio 100's), definitely some whistling/warbling in the background (amp is Parasound 5-ch) - same on both D2v's
> 
> my 1st thought is some sort of ground loop
> 
> disconnected cable connection (have a ground isolator already) - no change
> 
> all components (except servo 15) are fed from a monster power conditioner
> 
> disconnected all rca's - no change
> 
> looking for some theories...
> 
> mark
> 
> display is Anthem LTX-500 (JVC RS20)



additional info...

after disconnecting every cable, including hdmi to pj, rs232 from crestron processor - noise went away

if I reconnect any cable that touches my crestron gear the noise returns (this includes rs232 to pj and then returning on hdmi cable)

if I disconnect the power to the processor (mc3 - 24vac) the noise is gone

the only connections to the system are the rs232 to the pj and a cresnet (rs485) to my 8x8 audioswitcher (which has rca connections to the D2v)

I have tried grounding the screw on the back to my monster power conditioner - no change

when the crestron processor reboots I can hear the noise in the speakers change as it boots until it is fully up and the noise is constant

not sure how to resolve this 1?


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22768385
> 
> 
> I have an ARC-1 kit that I purchased (for my now dead D2) for sale on ebay and was asked if it will work with an avm-30.
> 
> I am pretty sure that the avm-30 does not have the processor power to run ARC, but I'm unclear on which Anthem processors that ARC will work with.
> 
> Does ARC work with the avm-40/50's ??
> 
> Or just avm-50v, D1, D2 and D2v ??
> 
> Tom



50 with a new DSP, D2, 50v and D2v

John


----------



## Korey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22768857
> 
> 
> 50 with a new DSP, D2, 50v and D2v
> 
> John



Don't forget the D1!


----------



## gonzalc3

Nick or Bob,


With the 3D board, will it be possible in the future to passthrough 4K material? Or a new processor is coming that will be able to passthrough and upconvert to 4K?


Thanks,


Christian


----------



## TJG55

JR

Addendum: ARC WILL work with an AVM 40. We have one in stock which we updated. How bout my ARC mic files to PBK? Counting on you.

TJG


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22766706
> 
> 
> Bob, et. al;
> 
> Yes, latest v of ARC and PBK is 2.01. Have done this before, 5/1/12 to be exact. Had no issues, just moved ARC mic cal files to PBK and all was well. New computer, tried to move CORRECT file to PBK with no success. No mic found. This is driving me crazy, I've done this many times before, at home and at client's houses. I know its somewhere here on this forum but searches come up empty. Help anyone?
> 
> TJG



This what you want to know ?


Paradigm Perfect Bass Kit


Installation Instructions:

1) Extract contents of zip download to the Desktop. The setup program will be in a Desktop folder called "pbk_cd".

2) If you are installing PBK for the first time be sure to copy the serialized file (XXXXXXXParadigm.cal, where XXXXXXX is the

serial number of your microphone) to the pbk_cd folder before clicking on setup.exe.

3) Run 'Setup.exe' (from the unzipped folder on your desktop) and follow the instructions

4) Once the installation has completed successfully you can delete the folder 'pbk_cd'

5) If you have any issues connecting to USB devices please refer to the included document "Paradigm Generic USB device driver installation procedure.doc"


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39400_50#post_22769073
> 
> 
> JR
> 
> Addendum: ARC WILL work with an AVM 40. We have one in stock which we updated. How bout my ARC mic files to PBK? Counting on you.
> 
> TJG


For your ARC problem you should check if the .cal file got copied to the correct installation folder (e.g. C:\Program Files (x86)\Anthem\AnthemRoomCorrection)

And it is readable (e.g. you can open it with notpad) and mine was 9460 bytes in length.

And if you plug-in the mic it shows up under devices as: 'ARC-1 Athem' and under Sound->Recording as microphone


----------



## TJG55

Guys,

Thanx for the replies but the problem is getting PBK to recognize the ARC mike. I know how to copy the mic file from ARC but cannot find the correct place to paste it to in PBK.. I havedone this many times before but alas have forgotten the correct procedure.

TJG


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22770135
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> Thanx for the replies but the problem is getting PBK to recognize the ARC mike. I know how to copy the mic file from ARC but cannot find the correct place to paste it to in PBK.. I havedone this many times before but alas have forgotten the correct procedure.
> 
> TJG



Are you reading carefully. PBK is different than ARC.once you run setup the mic file is not accessible..

Paradigm Perfect Bass Kit


Installation Instructions:

1) Extract contents of zip download to the Desktop. The setup program will be in a Desktop folder called "pbk_cd".

2) If you are installing PBK for the first time be sure to *copy the serialized file (XXXXXXXParadigm.cal, where XXXXXXX is the

serial number of your microphone) to the pbk_cd folder before clicking on setup.exe.*

3) Run 'Setup.exe' (from the unzipped folder on your desktop) and follow the instructions

4) Once the installation has completed successfully you can delete the folder 'pbk_cd'


----------



## TJG55

PBK is already installed. Are you saying the ARC mic file cannot be moved into PBK unless PBK is deleted then reinstalled?

TJG


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22770192
> 
> 
> Are you reading carefully. PBK is different than ARC.once you run setup the mic file is not accessible..
> 
> Paradigm Perfect Bass Kit
> 
> Installation Instructions:
> 
> 1) Extract contents of zip download to the Desktop. The setup program will be in a Desktop folder called "pbk_cd".
> 
> 2) If you are installing PBK for the first time be sure to *copy the serialized file (XXXXXXXParadigm.cal, where XXXXXXX is the
> 
> serial number of your microphone) to the pbk_cd folder before clicking on setup.exe.*
> 
> 3) Run 'Setup.exe' (from the unzipped folder on your desktop) and follow the instructions
> 
> 4) Once the installation has completed successfully you can delete the folder 'pbk_cd'





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22770224
> 
> 
> PBK is already installed. Are you saying the ARC mic file cannot be moved into PBK unless PBK is deleted then reinstalled?
> 
> TJG



Exactly what I see they are saying. I checked my own PBK file and everything is inside the executable file (.exe ). Not the same as ARC where the mic file is movable.

So, Here is the link to the Zip file for PBK 2.01 

Follow the instructions above putting the mic file into the pgk_cd folder and then run Setup.exe


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22770224
> 
> 
> PBK is already installed. Are you saying the ARC mic file cannot be moved into PBK unless PBK is deleted then reinstalled?
> 
> TJG



Yes. I would delete the old perfect Bass Kit.exe file and start over if you are using a different microphone


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39390#post_22764002
> 
> 
> LIke the Nike commercial says  ..."Just do it!". Really, Anthem has increased the reliability of its FW update process a whole lot. I've had my D2v bricked during this process twice. Once, i had to ship it back to Canada from Cali and the 2nd time, they sent me a programming kit where i had to disassemble the D2v and attach a programming cable to an Atmel micro-controller inside the D2v. Boy...that was fun!



Did the firmware update to 3.09c... all is good!


----------



## Shayne2



I know how to rock with this box .... I am willing to transition to an alt source.;=} All the best for the new year. I really need to=his to OP !


I mean it bang bang.


Regards


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22771344
> 
> 
> I know how to rock with this box .... I am willing to transition to an alt source.;=} All the best for the new year. I really need to=his to OP !
> 
> I mean it bang bang.
> 
> Regards



One more time, in English.


----------



## dmusoke


Just watched "Amistad" on the TCM movie channel. The Anthem said the input sound is mono and only from the center speaker. No L,R & surrounds!

The reported output configuration was Center, Sub (as i have 2.1 music configuration mode). This is strange to me. Anyone care to explanation if my D2v was functioning correctly?


----------



## AV_mike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22770224
> 
> 
> PBK is already installed. Are you saying the ARC mic file cannot be moved into PBK unless PBK is deleted then reinstalled?
> 
> TJG



Hi TJG55,

I may be getting this wrong, but I think you want to use your ARC microphone in order to run PBK with your Paradigm sub - but you don't actually have the PBK kit?

In this case you need to rename the xxxxxxAnthem.cal file from your ARC CD to read xxxxxxParadigm.cal, and then copy/paste it into the PBK installation directory (where xxxxxx is the microphone serial number).


But, be aware that the ARC and PBK microphones are NOT the same. I have one of each - the ARC mic is significantly lighter than the PBK mic, and the mic element cover is slightly different. Also the ARC mic correction file is over twice the size of the PBK one, as it obviously contains correction data for the whole frequency spectrum, whereas the the PBK version probably covers a more limited band. With all that said - I would still run ARC on top of PBK, as many others here do, and in the absence of the proper kit I would do the same as you.

Hope this helps, regards Mike.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22768683
> 
> 
> additional info...
> 
> after disconnecting every cable, including hdmi to pj, rs232 from crestron processor - noise went away
> 
> if I reconnect any cable that touches my crestron gear the noise returns (this includes rs232 to pj and then returning on hdmi cable)
> 
> if I disconnect the power to the processor (mc3 - 24vac) the noise is gone
> 
> the only connections to the system are the rs232 to the pj and a cresnet (rs485) to my 8x8 audioswitcher (which has rca connections to the D2v)
> 
> I have tried grounding the screw on the back to my monster power conditioner - no change
> 
> when the crestron processor reboots I can hear the noise in the speakers change as it boots until it is fully up and the noise is constant
> 
> not sure how to resolve this 1?



Do you hear the warbling noise in the sub too?

Try plugging the Crestron or Parasound amp into a different outlet.


My sub make a warbling sound when connected to the Anthem pre-amp but only if the Anthem power-amp is on the same power bar as the pre! Most bizarre, but all 3 of these components are only 2-prongers, which might have something to do with it.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22771707
> 
> 
> Just watched "Amistad" on the TCM movie channel. The Anthem said the input sound is mono and only from the center speaker. No L,R & surrounds!
> 
> The reported output configuration was Center, Sub (as i have 2.1 music configuration mode). This is strange to me. Anyone care to explanation if my D2v was functioning correctly?



I no longer trust the Anthem to report the audio mode correctly. Sometimes the audio part of the display is BLANK, and I have never seen this before. When I press the MODE button on the remote now it says NO AUDIO INPUT for 2-CHANNEL STEREO even though there is audio of at least 2 or more channels. I'm at v3.09c


----------



## airboyd

Can someone help me figure out why my ARC charts keep dropping below 75db?


You can see from my previous posts that I've had the tone set properly using Bob's list and checked it with a SPL meter for 75db. With the test tone of +3THX is where my speakers have always had a response chart showing 75db. I ran three separate ARC reads going from 0 to +3 to +6 and all the charts show the response barely passing 70db. I gave up after the third one and went back to +3THX.


Is it microphone or some other issue? More importantly, does it matter?


I've had consistent +75db since I got the ARC between +0 and +3 this is a new issue for me.


Attached +3THX charts, 4th run of the day.


----------



## AVfile

Need some advice from the ARC guys...


My friend has an MRX500 with Paradigm speakers (3 x Studio 60, 4 x ADP590, Sub-12) and feels that the bass is inadequate and doesn't go low enough on most movies. He is listending to recent blu-rays with 5-star audio reviews such as Expendables 2. The room is custom built in a basement with very solid walls. Looking at his ARC charts the response looks good to me. I suggested raising room gain but it is already 3.94. He is tempted to turn the sub up but this doesn't fix all movies and makes some movies like Nowlan's Inception too boomy.

ARC_TARGETS.png 60k .png file

ARC_5000_1.png 90k .png file

ARC_5000_2.png 91k .png file


It is difficult to move the speakers because the wires were custom built and there is no slack. The sub was moved from the corner (too boomy) to front left beside the center speaker. He is wondering if he needs a bigger sub or another sub or if it's just placement. I'm stumped because the charts look good to me.


I'm also wondering if the MRX measures fine by ARC but is running out of steam when the movies get loud. He might invest in a power-amp some day.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Check his subwoofer polarity and phase. He may be losing bass due to cancellation vs. the main speakers through the Crossover octave of frequencies.


Check that he's not doing something silly like playing movies with Secondary Audio Mixing enabled -- which causes the lossy compatibility track to be used in lieu of the lossless track he thinks he is playing (typically authored with less bass). He'll have the same problem if he's using Optical/Coax Digital cabling for audio instead of HDMI.


Check that he has Dynamic Range Control (may be called different things) turned off in whichever device is decoding the Blu-ray Bitstreams. (Compare Bitstream vs. LPCM input.)

--Bob


----------



## AV_mike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22774479
> 
> 
> Need some advice from the ARC guys...
> 
> My friend has an MRX500 with Paradigm speakers (3 x Studio 60, 4 x ADP590, Sub-12) and feels that the bass is inadequate and doesn't go low enough on most movies. He is listending to recent blu-rays with 5-star audio reviews such as Expendables 2. The room is custom built in a basement with very solid walls. Looking at his ARC charts the response looks good to me. I suggested raising room gain but it is already 3.94. He is tempted to turn the sub up but this doesn't fix all movies and makes some movies like Nowlan's Inception too boomy.
> 
> 
> ARC_TARGETS.png 60k .png file
> ARC_5000_1.png 90k .png file
> ARC_5000_2.png 91k .png file
> 
> It is difficult to move the speakers because the wires were custom built and there is no slack. The sub was moved from the corner (too boomy) to front left beside the center speaker. He is wondering if he needs a bigger sub or another sub or if it's just placement. I'm stumped because the charts look good to me.
> 
> I'm also wondering if the MRX measures fine by ARC but is running out of steam when the movies get loud. He might invest in a power-amp some day.



Just a suggestion, but make sure the MRX is running the latest firmware, v50.25, as the was an issue with an earlier version that gave correct ARC graphs, but did not infact apply any correct to the Sub or Surround channels, only Front Left & Right - on "some units".

Regards, Mike.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22774479
> 
> 
> Need some advice from the ARC guys...
> 
> 
> My friend has an MRX500 with Paradigm speakers (3 x Studio 60, 4 x ADP590, Sub-12) and feels that the bass is inadequate and doesn't go low enough on most movies. He is listending to recent blu-rays with 5-star audio reviews such as Expendables 2. The room is custom built in a basement with very solid walls. Looking at his ARC charts the response looks good to me. I suggested raising room gain but it is already 3.94. He is tempted to turn the sub up but this doesn't fix all movies and makes some movies like Nowlan's Inception too boomy.
> 
> ARC_TARGETS.png 60k .png file
> 
> ARC_5000_1.png 90k .png file
> 
> ARC_5000_2.png 91k .png file
> 
> 
> It is difficult to move the speakers because the wires were custom built and there is no slack. The sub was moved from the corner (too boomy) to front left beside the center speaker. He is wondering if he needs a bigger sub or another sub or if it's just placement. I'm stumped because the charts look good to me.
> 
> 
> I'm also wondering if the MRX measures fine by ARC but is running out of steam when the movies get loud. He might invest in a power-amp some day.


 

He can also set the sub to FLAT in the advanced settings menu of the target screen. This should extend the upper bandwidth of the subwoofer to include frequencies up to 120Hz which are used by movies for LFE. Mains, even though have a low extension, simply can't do justice to the LFE that movies have.

 

It (FLAT setting) will flatten the sub frequency response from 20Hz to its measured 3dB bandwidth (up to 120Hz) ensuring equal reproduction of those frequencies by the sub. It will also NOT correct frequencies below 20Hz so any LFE belwo 20Hz will go unfiltered as intended by the movie producer.

No worries as the Sub12 can handle any infrasonics it may encounter...


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22774187
> 
> 
> Do you hear the warbling noise in the sub too?
> 
> Try plugging the Crestron or Parasound amp into a different outlet.
> 
> My sub make a warbling sound when connected to the Anthem pre-amp but only if the Anthem power-amp is on the same power bar as the pre! Most bizarre, but all 3 of these components are only 2-prongers, which might have something to do with it.



no, I can't hear the sub

the fluttering noise comes out of the midrange/tweeter

the amp was quiet by itself & when connected to the bare preamp

I didn't test to see if I just had the amp & connected a ground from my crestron system (I assumed the noise was generated by the D2v, but that may not be true

the crestron gear is powered by a 24dc brick, so no ground connection there


mark


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22774238
> 
> 
> Can someone help me figure out why my ARC charts keep dropping below 75db?
> 
> You can see from my previous posts that I've had the tone set properly using Bob's list and checked it with a SPL meter for 75db. With the test tone of +3THX is where my speakers have always had a response chart showing 75db. I ran three separate ARC reads going from 0 to +3 to +6 and all the charts show the response barely passing 70db. I gave up after the third one and went back to +3THX.
> 
> Is it microphone or some other issue? More importantly, does it matter?
> 
> I've had consistent +75db since I got the ARC between +0 and +3 this is a new issue for me.
> 
> Attached +3THX charts, 4th run of the day.
> 
> 
> 
> My charts started reading 65 dbs all of a sudden about a year ago and I was told it is some sort of glitch but nothing to worry about.


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22776329
> 
> 
> no, I can't hear the sub
> 
> the fluttering noise comes out of the midrange/tweeter
> 
> the amp was quiet by itself & when connected to the bare preamp
> 
> I didn't test to see if I just had the amp & connected a ground from my crestron system (I assumed the noise was generated by the D2v, but that may not be true
> 
> the crestron gear is powered by a 24dc brick, so no ground connection there
> 
> mark



the amp is the source of the noise (Parasound 1205a)

it is quiet by itself, but as soon as I ground 1 of the RCA shields to the crestron proc the noise is there

tried plugging the amp into another plug (completely different circuit) - noise changed slightly, but was still there


anyone think that getting an amp with balanced connectors may help?


mark


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22776738
> 
> 
> the amp is the source of the noise (Parasound 1205a)
> 
> it is quiet by itself, but as soon as I ground 1 of the RCA shields to the crestron proc the noise is there
> 
> tried plugging the amp into another plug (completely different circuit) - noise changed slightly, but was still there
> 
> anyone think that getting an amp with balanced connectors may help?
> 
> mark



Are you sure its not the amp amplifying the hum from the Crestron ?

Are the AC plugs from the Crestron and the amp 3 terminal ?

If so try a cheater plug


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39400_100#post_22776899
> 
> 
> Are you sure its not the amp amplifying the hum from the Crestron ?
> 
> Are the AC plugs from the Crestron and the amp 3 terminal ?
> 
> If so try a cheater plug



Crestron uses a DC Brick and never cause hum.


I use multiple Crestron Systems.


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22776911
> 
> 
> Crestron uses a DC Brick and never cause hum.
> 
> I use multiple Crestron Systems.


correct (I am a Crestron CSP, so I work with these all the time)

this is new processor i.e.MC3 which is a mini-pc running embedded windows (replaced a 2-series a year ago, guess I never noticed the noise)

as it boots up I can hear the noise in the speaker change (everything disconnected from the amp except a ground connected from 1 rca to the ground screw on the MC3)

I may have to open it up & make sure everything is kosher inside


mark


----------



## ehlarson

So I finally got some time over Christmas to update the firmware in my D2V from 2. something or another to 3.09, and ARC to 3.02.


The process went pretty smoothly. I then remeasured my room and tried a couple of settings for the high frequency cutoff. 5K sounds a bit dull to me so I'm using 12K right now, which I think sounds better but isn't harsh. I also tried 15K but that sounded a bit harsh There don't seem to be any resonances or suckouts that ARC can't deal with so the results look pretty good.


The thing that I have a question about is the room gain. Since the room this is in opens into another room I'm getting a number of 0.6. I read somewhere that a gain of 2-4 is normal and what movies are typically mixed for. My system also sounds a bit thin in the upper bass.


What is the best way to deal with this?


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22776936
> 
> 
> correct (I am a Crestron CSP, so I work with these all the time)
> 
> this is new processor i.e.MC3 which is a mini-pc running embedded windows (replaced a 2-series a year ago, guess I never noticed the noise)
> 
> as it boots up I can hear the noise in the speaker change (everything disconnected from the amp except a ground connected from 1 rca to the ground screw on the MC3)
> 
> I may have to open it up & make sure everything is kosher inside
> 
> mark



SOLVED!!

I had tried plugging the amp into another circuit & that didn't solve the problem

I plugged the MC3 into another circuit & the noise is gone!!

definitely not your typical ground problem...


mark


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39400_100#post_22777013
> 
> 
> SOLVED!!
> 
> I had tried plugging the amp into another circuit & that didn't solve the problem
> 
> I plugged the MC3 into another circuit & the noise is gone!!
> 
> definitely not your typical ground problem...
> 
> mark



DAMM those Crestron with a PC inside










I only use CP2e and Similar Crestron Gear.


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22777412
> 
> 
> DAMM those Crestron with a PC inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only use CP2e and Similar Crestron Gear.



I have to assume that the 24VDC brick is introducing noise back onto the A/C lines that the monster box isn't removing

I have the same P/S at my daughters - i'll swap the next time I am there to see if it's the brick or a more general issue


I thank AVfile for the hint about plugging the amp & Crestron into another circuit


mark


----------



## chileboy

Wondering if the experts here could have a look at my charts as well. Not sure what the others used to screen-capture theirs, so please let me know if I need to do better...(I wish the ARC app had "Print" or "Save as..." functionality)


I thought they looked pretty good - the "calculated" doesn't seem to vary much from +/- 1 for almost the entire range. But some of the other charts I've looked at seem flatter than mine. I want to be sure I'm not misinterpreting anything.


I did the last run with 7 mic positions rather than 5, plus I was very precise in my placements (used a tape measure), whereas I kind of eyeballed it before. From my dead-center position 1 where I always sit, about 12' from the front speakers, 2nd position to the right about 26", which is where my significant other sits, then 26" to the left. Then I went forward exactly 4', but out to the side more, just to the outsides of the L-R speakers, same distance for each side. Then exactly another 4' forward for the last two positions. I also made sure to alternate positions L-R of center.


I didn't know if taking one or two more center positions (i.e., between my other two L-R positions) was helpful or advisible.


I will say that it sounds a LOT better to me than my first couple of runs.










If it matters, this is with an AVM50 (with factory ARC), amp is B&K Reference 200.7, speakers are all Paradigm: Mains Studio 100, Center CC570, Surrounds ADP470, Sub SVS PB10-ISD


Thanks very much for any feedback.


- Mark


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22777853
> 
> 
> Wondering if the experts here could have a look at my charts as well. Not sure what the others used to screen-capture theirs, so please let me know if I need to do better...(I wish the ARC app had "Print" or "Save as..." functionality)
> 
> I thought they looked pretty good - the "calculated" doesn't seem to vary much from +/- 1 for almost the entire range. But some of the other charts I've looked at seem flatter than mine. I want to be sure I'm not misinterpreting anything.
> 
> I did the last run with 7 mic positions rather than 5, plus I was very precise in my placements (used a tape measure), whereas I kind of eyeballed it before. From my dead-center position 1 where I always sit, about 12' from the front speakers, 2nd position to the right about 26", which is where my significant other sits, then 26" to the left. Then I went forward exactly 4', but out to the side more, just to the outsides of the L-R speakers, same distance for each side. Then exactly another 4' forward for the last two positions. I also made sure to alternate positions L-R of center.
> 
> I didn't know if taking one or two more center positions (i.e., between my other two L-R positions) was helpful or advisible.
> 
> I will say that it sounds a LOT better to me than my first couple of runs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it matters, this is with an AVM50 (with factory ARC), amp is B&K Reference 200.7, speakers are all Paradigm: Mains Studio 100, Center CC570, Surrounds ADP470, Sub SVS PB10-ISD
> 
> Thanks very much for any feedback.
> 
> - Mark


No worries. Your charts look very good. If it sounds as good as your charts look, then you are in very good shape.


----------



## Texas steve


Only thing I not is your sub takes a dive but perhaps its a limitation of your sub?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22777853
> 
> 
> Wondering if the experts here could have a look at my charts as well. Not sure what the others used to screen-capture theirs, so please let me know if I need to do better...(I wish the ARC app had "Print" or "Save as..." functionality)
> 
> I thought they looked pretty good - the "calculated" doesn't seem to vary much from +/- 1 for almost the entire range. But some of the other charts I've looked at seem flatter than mine. I want to be sure I'm not misinterpreting anything.
> 
> I did the last run with 7 mic positions rather than 5, plus I was very precise in my placements (used a tape measure), whereas I kind of eyeballed it before. From my dead-center position 1 where I always sit, about 12' from the front speakers, 2nd position to the right about 26", which is where my significant other sits, then 26" to the left. Then I went forward exactly 4', but out to the side more, just to the outsides of the L-R speakers, same distance for each side. Then exactly another 4' forward for the last two positions. I also made sure to alternate positions L-R of center.
> 
> I didn't know if taking one or two more center positions (i.e., between my other two L-R positions) was helpful or advisible.
> 
> I will say that it sounds a LOT better to me than my first couple of runs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it matters, this is with an AVM50 (with factory ARC), amp is B&K Reference 200.7, speakers are all Paradigm: Mains Studio 100, Center CC570, Surrounds ADP470, Sub SVS PB10-ISD
> 
> Thanks very much for any feedback.
> 
> - Mark


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22777853
> 
> 
> Wondering if the experts here could have a look at my charts as well. Not sure what the others used to screen-capture theirs, so please let me know if I need to do better...(I wish the ARC app had "Print" or "Save as..." functionality)
> 
> I thought they looked pretty good - the "calculated" doesn't seem to vary much from +/- 1 for almost the entire range. But some of the other charts I've looked at seem flatter than mine. I want to be sure I'm not misinterpreting anything.
> 
> I did the last run with 7 mic positions rather than 5, plus I was very precise in my placements (used a tape measure), whereas I kind of eyeballed it before. From my dead-center position 1 where I always sit, about 12' from the front speakers, 2nd position to the right about 26", which is where my significant other sits, then 26" to the left. Then I went forward exactly 4', but out to the side more, just to the outsides of the L-R speakers, same distance for each side. Then exactly another 4' forward for the last two positions. I also made sure to alternate positions L-R of center.
> 
> I didn't know if taking one or two more center positions (i.e., between my other two L-R positions) was helpful or advisible.
> 
> I will say that it sounds a LOT better to me than my first couple of runs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it matters, this is with an AVM50 (with factory ARC), amp is B&K Reference 200.7, speakers are all Paradigm: Mains Studio 100, Center CC570, Surrounds ADP470, Sub SVS PB10-ISD
> 
> Thanks very much for any feedback.
> 
> - Mark



Looks like your levels are too low also... about 68db, when they should be about 75db... I believe that is why your ARC mic picked up so much high frequency "noise" on your sub chart. Otherwise, everything looks fine. If your sub is capable, try setting it to "flat" in the targets window. This will flatten the curve down to 20hz. But be careful, if your sub is not capable of reproducing frequencies that low, you may overload it and damage the sub.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22779072
> 
> 
> Looks like your levels are too low also... about 68db, when they should be about 75db... I believe that is why your ARC mic picked up so much high frequency "noise" on your sub chart. Otherwise, everything looks fine. If your sub is capable, try setting it to "flat" in the targets window. This will flatten the curve down to 20hz. But be careful, if your sub is not capable of reproducing frequencies that low, you may overload it and damage the sub.



Flat is for subs that can play flat to 20Hz. The drop in that sub chart indicates it will not be able to play below 20Hz at high volume so it might be too much for this sub to handle Flat.

John


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22779416
> 
> 
> Flat is for subs that can play flat to 20Hz. The drop in that sub chart indicates it will not be able to play below 20Hz at high volume so it might be too much for this sub to handle Flat.
> 
> John



Understood, but his measured response could also be a placement issue... that curve would seem to indicate a lack of low frequency boundry gain. It's an SVS sub, though I'm not familiar with that model and I don't see it on their site, but the PB12-NSD is flat to 18hz, and the PB1000 (a 10" driver) is flat to 19hz... so it's not unreasonable his his could easily hit 20hz.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22779475
> 
> 
> Understood, but his measured response could also be a placement issue... that curve would seem to indicate a lack of low frequency boundry gain. It's an SVS sub, though I'm not familiar with that model and I don't see it on their site, but the PB12-NSD is flat to 18hz, and the PB1000 (a 10" driver) is flat to 19hz... so it's not unreasonable his his could easily hit 20hz.



I just don't think 18 or 19 Hz is going to make much difference as they are probably best case numbers. They'll drop in loudness at high volume likely so until the location is optimized, I'd stick with auto.

John


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22777000
> 
> 
> So I finally got some time over Christmas to update the firmware in my D2V from 2. something or another to 3.09, and ARC to 3.02.
> 
> The process went pretty smoothly. I then remeasured my room and tried a couple of settings for the high frequency cutoff. 5K sounds a bit dull to me so I'm using 12K right now, which I think sounds better but isn't harsh. I also tried 15K but that sounded a bit harsh There don't seem to be any resonances or suckouts that ARC can't deal with so the results look pretty good.
> 
> The thing that I have a question about is the room gain. Since the room this is in opens into another room I'm getting a number of 0.6. I read somewhere that a gain of 2-4 is normal and what movies are typically mixed for. My system also sounds a bit thin in the upper bass.
> 
> What is the best way to deal with this?



I did some screen caps of the ARC application window to perhaps help describe what is going on:

 
 
 



Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450_50#post_22780338
> 
> 
> I did some screen caps of the ARC application window to perhaps help describe what is going on:
> 
> Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.


You should not ask (force) ARC to correct above the recommended 5Khz, because if your mic cannot measure accurately above 8Khz the software will try to raise the level above 8Khz to make the curve flat and your system will sound harsh.

Sometime the dip you see the higher frequency may not be due to your speakers but to your mic.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22780338
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22777000
> 
> 
> So I finally got some time over Christmas to update the firmware in my D2V from 2. something or another to 3.09, and ARC to 3.02.
> 
> The process went pretty smoothly. I then remeasured my room and tried a couple of settings for the high frequency cutoff. 5K sounds a bit dull to me so I'm using 12K right now, which I think sounds better but isn't harsh. I also tried 15K but that sounded a bit harsh There don't seem to be any resonances or suckouts that ARC can't deal with so the results look pretty good.
> 
> The thing that I have a question about is the room gain. Since the room this is in opens into another room I'm getting a number of 0.6. I read somewhere that a gain of 2-4 is normal and what movies are typically mixed for. My system also sounds a bit thin in the upper bass.
> 
> What is the best way to deal with this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did some screen caps of the ARC application window to perhaps help describe what is going on:
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...


Based on the red Measured curves, it looks like your room really has little to no inherent Room Gain. That is, it doesn't look like ARC was fooled by any dips in the uncorrected speaker output. The low inherent Room Gain could easily be due to the open floor plan, or, if you have bass treatments on the walls they would also reduce it. You could raise Room Gain in Targets, but you should probably not try to go much above 2dB so as to keep the ARC response closer to the natural response of the room.


Now, you do have some dips in bass that might be harder for ARC to correct if you increase the Room Gain (since that means ARC needs to apply more boost to fill those dips up to the now higher Target). So try it and see what the charts look like. Adding Room Gain will give you fuller mid bass.


Another important thing to do is check the Phase setting for the Sub. If Phase is wrong for the Sub (compared to the main speakers) then you will be getting cancellation through the Crossover octave of frequencies where Sub and Mains are playing the same content. That's a classic cause of "anemic" bass symptoms because the octave below the Crossover frequencies is the cornerstone of the bass you hear. Phase is something you have to set Manually. ARC can't adjust for Phase because it doesn't hear the Sub playing at the same time as any Main speakers.


At the high end, your Measured data doesn't give me a lot of confidence that the mic is hearing things particularly well up there, so I'd be loathe to push Max EQ Frequency too far. You got that yourself when you tried 15KHz.


I think instead you should double check the pointing of your speakers. Treble output from speakers is much more directional than lower frequencies. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height then pay particular attention to their vertical pointing. Center and the Surrounds can point at mic position #1. Left Front and Right Front should not point directly at mic positions #1. The usual Rule of Thumb is to swing them only 1/3 of the angle from pointing straight at the back wall towards pointing at mic position #1.


Also keep in mind that for proper treble Measurement the ARC mic must be pointed straight up at each mic position, and it should be set with the mic tip at seated ear height (unless you have to adjust a bit to clear a seat back). Also keep the mic about 18 inches away from walls and if you have tall seat backs also movie it a foot closer to the screen to be away from them.


With any luck some corrections here will give you better looking Measured treble data, meaning you can push Max EQ Frequency higher without "correcting" bogus data up there.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22779072
> 
> 
> Looks like your levels are too low also... about 68db, when they should be about 75db... I believe that is why your ARC mic picked up so much high frequency "noise" on your sub chart. Otherwise, everything looks fine. If your sub is capable, try setting it to "flat" in the targets window. This will flatten the curve down to 20hz. But be careful, if your sub is not capable of reproducing frequencies that low, you may overload it and damage the sub.



Anthem has stated that the actual levels are not critical and ARC uses them and resets them while processing


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22778501
> 
> 
> No worries. Your charts look very good. If it sounds as good as your charts look, then you are in very good shape.



I can say that it sounds great to me, especially when compared to my earlier measurements. The first "real" test was _District 9_ - when they were being chased through the compound with the helicopters circling all around, the surround was amazing to me.










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22778598
> 
> 
> Only thing I not is your sub takes a dive but perhaps its a limitation of your sub?



Do you mean at the low-end of the curve? It doesn't look (to me) that different than the other charts here. It _looks_ to follow the Target curve pretty closely..I guess I am not understanding something.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22779072
> 
> 
> Looks like your levels are too low also... about 68db, when they should be about 75db... I believe that is why your ARC mic picked up so much high frequency "noise" on your sub chart.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22781155
> 
> 
> Anthem has stated that the actual levels are not critical and ARC uses them and resets them while processing



Yes, I asked about this awhile back, when someone else was having the same issue. I did adjust the noise levels as per the thread instructions to 75db using my SPL meter prior to my measuring. I guess as thestewman says, I don't need to worry about it?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22779072
> 
> 
> ...why your ARC mic picked up so much high frequency "noise" on your sub chart. Otherwise, everything looks fine. If your sub is capable, try setting it to "flat" in the targets window. This will flatten the curve down to 20hz. But be careful, if your sub is not capable of reproducing frequencies that low, you may overload it and damage the sub.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22779416
> 
> 
> Flat is for subs that can play flat to 20Hz. The drop in that sub chart indicates it will not be able to play below 20Hz at high volume so it might be too much for this sub to handle Flat.
> 
> John





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22779475
> 
> 
> Understood, but his measured response could also be a placement issue... that curve would seem to indicate a lack of low frequency boundry gain. It's an SVS sub, though I'm not familiar with that model and I don't see it on their site, but the PB12-NSD is flat to 18hz, and the PB1000 (a 10" driver) is flat to 19hz... so it's not unreasonable his his could easily hit 20hz.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22779943
> 
> 
> I just don't think 18 or 19 Hz is going to make much difference as they are probably best case numbers. They'll drop in loudness at high volume likely so until the location is optimized, I'd stick with auto.
> 
> John



Not sure what to make of all of this. I will have to look at the sub's specs. I'm kind of limited in my placement options, my room is far from ideal...I'm set up in the living room of a 1970's-era townhouse.


Thanks very much for all the feedback, it is appreciated.


- Mark


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22781569
> 
> 
> I can say that it sounds great to me, especially when compared to my earlier measurements. The first "real" test was _District 9_ - when they were being chased through the compound with the helicopters circling all around, the surround was amazing to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you mean at the low-end of the curve? It doesn't look (to me) that different than the other charts here. It _looks_ to follow the Target curve pretty closely..I guess I am not understanding something.
> 
> Yes, I asked about this awhile back, when someone else was having the same issue. I did adjust the noise levels as per the thread instructions to 75db using my SPL meter prior to my measuring. I guess as thestewman says, I don't need to worry about it?
> 
> Not sure what to make of all of this. I will have to look at the sub's specs. I'm kind of limited in my placement options, my room is far from ideal...I'm set up in the living room of a 1970's-era townhouse.
> 
> Thanks very much for all the feedback, it is appreciated.
> 
> - Mark


   


Compare these two subs, yours and ehlarson. Notice how your subs corrected curve (Green Line) starts to fall in output after about 40hz and the other sub's output

is strong all the way to 20hz where it rises a bit.

Now that does not mean your sub will sound bad. Realistically there is not much output in those super low regions and it is not the area where the bass impact comes from

that most home theater owners are striving for to get the bass impact.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22781925
> 
> 
> Now that does not mean your sub will sound bad. Realistically there is not much output in those super low regions and it is not the area where the bass impact comes from
> 
> that most home theater owners are striving for to get the bass impact.



Some of the SVS subs have a way to tune for a particular frequency range by inserting a plug into a port. It may be worth doing to shift the sub response lower if the sub supports this.


----------



## Texas steve


Correct, that's the "dive" I was talking about.  Where you will miss it is not music etc but 5.1 on the .1 effects of movies etc.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22781925
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare these two subs, yours and ehlarson. Notice how your subs corrected curve (Green Line) starts to fall in output after about 40hz and the other sub's output
> 
> is strong all the way to 20hz where it rises a bit.
> 
> Now that does not mean your sub will sound bad. Realistically there is not much output in those super low regions and it is not the area where the bass impact comes from
> 
> that most home theater owners are striving for to get the bass impact.


----------



## TJG55

Definitive answer on ARC/PBK mics.


"The Mics are different and the files are not compatible with one another. Run PBK first and then Run ARC".


Piero


TJG


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22781925
> 
> 
> 
> Compare these two subs, yours and ehlarson. Notice how your subs corrected curve (Green Line) starts to fall in output after about 40hz and the other sub's output
> 
> is strong all the way to 20hz where it rises a bit.
> 
> Now that does not mean your sub will sound bad. Realistically there is not much output in those super low regions and it is not the area where the bass impact comes from
> 
> that most home theater owners are striving for to get the bass impact.



Oh, ok, I finally realized as I was composing this that I should be reading the curve from right-to-left, I was getting confused because I was reading in the other direction...thanks (to you and Texas Steve) for the explanation.


I checked the specs for my sub, and it says specifically
Code:


Code:


[CODE]Frequency Response: 20Hz - 150Hz ± 3dB 
(quasi-anechoic)    (typical in-room response 3-5Hz deeper)

[/CODE]


Does that mean I can (or should) try the "flat" setting? I hear you saying maybe I should just let it go.


I do have neighbors on both sides, maybe for their peace I should leave it - I'm already afraid I'm rattling their dishes sometimes.


- Mark


P.S. Oh, and my sub doesn't have the plugable-port that ehlarson is referring to.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22781569
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what to make of all of this. I will have to look at the sub's specs. I'm kind of limited in my placement options, my room is far from ideal...I'm set up in the living room of a 1970's-era townhouse.
> 
> Thanks very much for all the feedback, it is appreciated.
> 
> - Mark



The easiest way to check placement is to put the sub in your listening position, then move around the room until you get the strongest, most articulate bass response... that position is where you want your sub to be.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22782447
> 
> 
> Oh, ok, I finally realized as I was composing this that I should be reading the curve from right-to-left, I was getting confused because I was reading in the other direction...thanks (to you and Texas Steve) for the explanation.
> 
> I checked the specs for my sub, and it says specifically
> Code:
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [CODE]Frequency Response: 20Hz - 150Hz ± 3dB
> (quasi-anechoic)    (typical in-room response 3-5Hz deeper)
> 
> [/CODE]
> Does that mean I can (or should) try the "flat" setting? I hear you saying maybe I should just let it go.
> 
> I do have neighbors on both sides, maybe for their peace I should leave it - I'm already afraid I'm rattling their dishes sometimes.
> 
> - Mark
> 
> P.S. Oh, and my sub doesn't have the plugable-port that ehlarson is referring to.



Your SVS sub is fully protected by a steep roll off from 20hz and down .

But, What more could you demand from a single 10" Driver and a 300 watt amp ?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22782447
> 
> 
> Oh, ok, I finally realized as I was composing this that I should be reading the curve from right-to-left, I was getting confused because I was reading in the other direction...thanks (to you and Texas Steve) for the explanation.
> 
> 
> I checked the specs for my sub, and it says specifically
> Code:
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [CODE]Frequency Response: 20Hz - 150Hz ± 3dB
> (quasi-anechoic)    (typical in-room response 3-5Hz deeper)
> 
> [/CODE]
> 
> 
> Does that mean I can (or should) try the "flat" setting? I hear you saying maybe I should just let it go.
> 
> 
> I do have neighbors on both sides, maybe for their peace I should leave it - I'm already afraid I'm rattling their dishes sometimes.
> 
> 
> - Mark
> 
> 
> P.S. Oh, and my sub doesn't have the plugable-port that ehlarson is referring to.


 

Mark:

 

Since the in-room response is 3-5Hz deeper, it'd imply the new in-room frequency response be from 17Hz - 150Hz  ±3dB even down to 15Hz depending on the room...I would definately try the flat setting IMO. Your sub frequency response is not atypical at all.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22780814
> 
> 
> Based on the red Measured curves, it looks like your room really has little to no inherent Room Gain. That is, it doesn't look like ARC was fooled by any dips in the uncorrected speaker output. The low inherent Room Gain could easily be due to the open floor plan, or, if you have bass treatments on the walls they would also reduce it.
> 
> 
> You could raise Room Gain in Targets, but you should probably not try to go much above 2dB so as to keep the ARC response closer to the natural response of the room.
> 
> Now, you do have some dips in bass that might be harder for ARC to correct if you increase the Room Gain (since that means ARC needs to apply more boost to fill those dips up to the now higher Target). So try it and see what the charts look like. Adding Room Gain will give you fuller mid bass.
> 
> 
> Another important thing to do is check the Phase setting for the Sub.



No bass treatments. Just a big ole' opening into another room. I do have plenty of sub output that I'm not using in the current configuration though.


When I originally set up the sub I used a Velodyne SMS-1 to set the phase. Perhaps it's time to dig out the cables for that again.


> Quote:
> I'd be loathe to push Max EQ Frequency too far. You got that yourself when you tried 15KHz.
> 
> I think instead you should double check the pointing of your speakers. Treble output from speakers is much more directional than lower frequencies. If the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height then pay particular attention to their vertical pointing. Center and the Surrounds can point at mic position #1. Left Front and Right Front should not point directly at mic positions #1. The usual Rule of Thumb is to swing them only 1/3 of the angle from pointing straight at the back wall towards pointing at mic position #1.



Speaker pointing is an interesting idea.


According to the measurements of my speakers that were done in Stereophile their off axis response is pretty good up to 10K or so. Because of that I'd really like to have my max EQ no lower than 10K. When I tried 5K my system sounded pretty dull.


Thanks Bob.


----------



## boyce89976

I posted this in the Oppo 105 forum also, but since it could be an Anthem issue, thought I should post here also:


I have a strange problem that cropped up tonight. I turned the system on so my girls could watch a bluray, and there was a CD in the tray that started playing automatically, through the XLRs to my AVM 50v. The problem, is that it was REALLY loud (I have the startup volume set to -40). I went into the menu on the AVM50 to check ANLG Input level, which I had previously set at -6db. It was still set to -6db, but I selected it anyway, and the clipping meter that shows up when you adjust input level was almost max'd out, I had the pink bar above the green on solid, with the red bar above the pink flashing on and off with peaks. I adjusted the input level on the AVM to -20 (max range) and it didn't move the meter much at all... it was still showing clipping on the meter on the loudest peaks. So, I adjust the output volume on the Oppo down to 80 (from 100) and I was comfortably in the green. When I exited out of everything, I switched back and forth between ANLG Dir and HDMI on the AVM 50, and the ANLG Dir was close to 12db lower in output than the HDMI. I went back into the ANLG Input level menu on the AVM 50 and the clipping meter was significantly lower than it was before over the same passage of music. So, I left the Oppo at -80, and adjusted the AVM 50 input level up to 0db, while still comfortably in the green on the clipping meter. (This setting is still about 3db softer than the same music over HDMI). Exit out and go back in, and the clipping meter shows clipping again. I'm stumped. Does anyone know how to properly set the levels? I'm sure the HDMI is not clipping, and I'm NOT sure the ANLG IS clipping, since the clipping meter in the AVM 50 seems to change every time I exit and re-enter. I had initially assumed I could set the levels the same between the ANLG and HDMI, but now not so sure. BTW, I never heard any audible clipping under any of these scenarios.


The other problem I'm having... in the Oppo setup menu, under speaker configuration, I can't get any output tones. I have all speakers set to large, and the distance set to 12ft because I'm using ARC in the AVM 50... does that turn the tones off since I'm not using the Oppo's speaker setup?


----------



## boyce89976

Other HDMI sources (DVR) have much lower input levels than the Oppo's HDMI... is there a way to control the output level of the HDMI out on the Oppo?


----------



## airboyd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22776439
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airboyd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22774238
> 
> 
> Can someone help me figure out why my ARC charts keep dropping below 75db?
> 
> You can see from my previous posts that I've had the tone set properly using Bob's list and checked it with a SPL meter for 75db. With the test tone of +3THX is where my speakers have always had a response chart showing 75db. I ran three separate ARC reads going from 0 to +3 to +6 and all the charts show the response barely passing 70db. I gave up after the third one and went back to +3THX.
> 
> Is it microphone or some other issue? More importantly, does it matter?
> 
> I've had consistent +75db since I got the ARC between +0 and +3 this is a new issue for me.
> 
> Attached +3THX charts, 4th run of the day.
> 
> My charts started reading 65 dbs all of a sudden about a year ago and I was told it is some sort of glitch but nothing to worry about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It drove me nuts the day I was doing it. Thanks.
Click to expand...


----------



## studlygoorite

Well I bit the bullet and am sending my D2v in for the 3D upgrade this Tuesday, I have the older HDMI board and have had many problems since day one, I am hoping that the new board will eradicate my problems. I purchased a cheap Pioneer 3D receiver for 250.00 to fill in the gap while my D2v is being serviced and am very interested to see if my problems continue with it in the chain.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22783306
> 
> 
> Mark:
> 
> 
> Since the in-room response is 3-5Hz deeper, it'd imply the new in-room frequency response be from 17Hz - 150Hz  ±3dB even down to 15Hz depending on the room...I would definately try the flat setting IMO. Your sub frequency response is not atypical at all.



Do I need to re-run ARC or just recalculate with the "Flat" setting?


When I just do a recalculate, the Sub chart looks better. I left every other setting the same.


 



I still have a bit of a dip below 25Hz, but nothing like it was.


Thanks!


- Mark


----------



## studlygoorite

Recalculate and upload, that's it.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22774679
> 
> 
> ^ Check his subwoofer polarity and phase. He may be losing bass due to cancellation vs. the main speakers through the Crossover octave of frequencies.
> 
> Check that he's not doing something silly like playing movies with Secondary Audio Mixing enabled -- which causes the lossy compatibility track to be used in lieu of the lossless track he thinks he is playing (typically authored with less bass). He'll have the same problem if he's using Optical/Coax Digital cabling for audio instead of HDMI.
> 
> Check that he has Dynamic Range Control (may be called different things) turned off in whichever device is decoding the Blu-ray Bitstreams. (Compare Bitstream vs. LPCM input.)
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22776185
> 
> 
> He can also set the sub to FLAT in the advanced settings menu of the target screen. This should extend the upper bandwidth of the subwoofer to include frequencies up to 120Hz which are used by movies for LFE. Mains, even though have a low extension, simply can't do justice to the LFE that movies have.
> 
> 
> It (FLAT setting) will flatten the sub frequency response from 20Hz to its measured 3dB bandwidth (up to 120Hz) ensuring equal reproduction of those frequencies by the sub. It will also NOT correct frequencies below 20Hz so any LFE belwo 20Hz will go unfiltered as intended by the movie producer.
> 
> No worries as the Sub12 can handle any infrasonics it may encounter...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV_mike*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39450#post_22776138
> 
> 
> Just a suggestion, but make sure the MRX is running the latest firmware, v50.25, as the was an issue with an earlier version that gave correct ARC graphs, but did not infact apply any correct to the Sub or Surround channels, only Front Left & Right - on "some units".
> 
> Regards, Mike.



Thanks all! I went over to my friend's house and confirmed what he was hearing. It reminded me of the same lack of impact that I heard with the Sub12 when I auditioned it in my own home. I ended up keeping my ancient Mirage bipolar 2x12" sub. The Paradigm isn't a bad sub, in fact very clean sounding, and his sub chart looks way better than mine but there seems to be something missing at times. We did check phase and levels using various test tones and my SPL meter, but adjusting the phase had no effect on broadband pink noise. It did unevenly raise the response on some discrete test tones at 40 and 80Hz.


Mike - turns out he has in fact been running the old MRX formware with the bug! So he updated to the latest and noticed volume levels changed. Everything, including the sub gets a bit softer now when ARC is turned on, where before ARC had very little effect... what a horrible bug to have! So if anything the bass is even leaner now. The boomy Nowlan Dark Knight movies are no longer boomy and sound just right to both of us. However the majority of other reference material (Transformers, Expendables, Inception) are seriously lacking bass impact. With ARC turned off we liked the sound of the sub a bit better on these movies.


A long time ago I noticed the ARC in the MRX is less powerful than our processors, so I had him reduce the upper correction limit to 1k (max is 5k) in order to let ARC concentrate on the bass. I think this was a bad idea because it resulted in lean bass and slightly harsh treble (most of his speakers have a small peak at 2k now uncorrected. I am going to suggest he store another ARC solution with maximal treble correction at the expense of bass correction in the Music mode. This should provide a warmer sound, and he can try both solutions on the fly, to suit the program material.


I also suggested getting a second sub placed elsewhere in the room to "fill in the gaps". Finally I wonder if 7 speakers with 5 drivers each is too much for the MRX500. A separate amp for the front speakers might be in his future.


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22787485
> 
> 
> Thanks all! I went over to my friend's house and confirmed what he was hearing. It reminded me of the same lack of impact that I heard with the Sub12 when I auditioned it in my own home. I ended up keeping my ancient Mirage bipolar 2x12" sub. The Paradigm isn't a bad sub, in fact very clean sounding, and his sub chart looks way better than mine but there seems to be something missing at times. We did check phase and levels using various test tones and my SPL meter, but adjusting the phase had no effect on broadband pink noise. It did unevenly raise the response on some discrete test tones at 40 and 80Hz.
> 
> Mike - turns out he has in fact been running the old MRX formware with the bug! So he updated to the latest and noticed volume levels changed. Everything, including the sub gets a bit softer now when ARC is turned on, where before ARC had very little effect... what a horrible bug to have! So if anything the bass is even leaner now. The boomy Nowlan Dark Knight movies are no longer boomy and sound just right to both of us. However the majority of other reference material (Transformers, Expendables, Inception) are seriously lacking bass impact. With ARC turned off we liked the sound of the sub a bit better on these movies.
> 
> A long time ago I noticed the ARC in the MRX is less powerful than our processors, so I had him reduce the upper correction limit to 1k (max is 5k) in order to let ARC concentrate on the bass. I think this was a bad idea because it resulted in lean bass and slightly harsh treble (most of his speakers have a small peak at 2k now uncorrected. I am going to suggest he store another ARC solution with maximal treble correction at the expense of bass correction in the Music mode. This should provide a warmer sound, and he can try both solutions on the fly, to suit the program material.
> 
> I also suggested getting a second sub placed elsewhere in the room to "fill in the gaps". Finally I wonder if 7 speakers with 5 drivers each is too much for the MRX500. A separate amp for the front speakers might be in his future.



I've tested my mrx500 with a 7.1 system and it had no problem in a 14x18x9 room. A Servo 15 was the sub and it sounded fantastic. ARC in the the MRX uses the same resources for the Sub as in the pre/pros.

John


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22784268
> 
> 
> I posted this in the Oppo 105 forum also, but since it could be an Anthem issue, thought I should post here also:
> 
> I have a strange problem that cropped up tonight. I turned the system on so my girls could watch a bluray, and there was a CD in the tray that started playing automatically, through the XLRs to my AVM 50v. The problem, is that it was REALLY loud (I have the startup volume set to -40). I went into the menu on the AVM50 to check ANLG Input level, which I had previously set at -6db. It was still set to -6db, but I selected it anyway, and the clipping meter that shows up when you adjust input level was almost max'd out, I had the pink bar above the green on solid, with the red bar above the pink flashing on and off with peaks. I adjusted the input level on the AVM to -20 (max range) and it didn't move the meter much at all... it was still showing clipping on the meter on the loudest peaks. So, I adjust the output volume on the Oppo down to 80 (from 100) and I was comfortably in the green. When I exited out of everything, I switched back and forth between ANLG Dir and HDMI on the AVM 50, and the ANLG Dir was close to 12db lower in output than the HDMI. I went back into the ANLG Input level menu on the AVM 50 and the clipping meter was significantly lower than it was before over the same passage of music. So, I left the Oppo at -80, and adjusted the AVM 50 input level up to 0db, while still comfortably in the green on the clipping meter. (This setting is still about 3db softer than the same music over HDMI). Exit out and go back in, and the clipping meter shows clipping again. I'm stumped. Does anyone know how to properly set the levels? I'm sure the HDMI is not clipping, and I'm NOT sure the ANLG IS clipping, since the clipping meter in the AVM 50 seems to change every time I exit and re-enter. I had initially assumed I could set the levels the same between the ANLG and HDMI, but now not so sure. BTW, I never heard any audible clipping under any of these scenarios.
> 
> The other problem I'm having... in the Oppo setup menu, under speaker configuration, I can't get any output tones. I have all speakers set to large, and the distance set to 12ft because I'm using ARC in the AVM 50... does that turn the tones off since I'm not using the Oppo's speaker setup?



Why are you using the volume control on the Oppo at all? Why not set to fixed volume output into the Anthem and use the volume control on the Anthem??


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22788387
> 
> 
> Why are you using the volume control on the Oppo at all? Why not set to fixed volume output into the Anthem and use the volume control on the Anthem??



Because of this: The pic below is with the Oppo's volume set to 100, connected to the Anthem via XLR and set up on the 2-CH Bal input in the setup menu. Even with input trim on the Anthem set to -20dB, the level meter shows maxed-out clipping at the inputs. What I don't know is if it's a glitch, or if it's really clipping at the inputs. Any help you can provide on what I'm doing wrong would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

As stated in the OPPO thread where you also posted this, that bar graph is not valid when using ANALOG-DIRECT. The fact that it is showing at all is a bug (minor) in the UI of the Anthem.


Use -6dB for the level adjustment in the D2v for the XLR inputs coming from the OPPO. You can then use Volume FIXED (or Variable 100) in the OPPO for its XLR output.


You can verify your levels with a calibration disc. Using Stereo audio mode in both cases, and ANALOG-DSP input for the Analog case the, XLR inputs should match the HDMI input.


(Using ANALOG-DIRECT the levels may differ since you have, in essence disabled ARC and bass steering. Whether the difference is enough to be noticeable depends on what ARC is doing in your room.)

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke


Bob:

 

Why am i getting the pink bar(possible clipping) when i'm using Analog-DSP with my 105 XLR outs with the gain level set to -6dB in the Anthem menu?

 

I thought you said the Oppo XLR outs and Anthem 2CH XLR in's are compatible when levels are set to -6dB? Anthems D2v datasheet doesn't seem to give the maximum input voltage on  its XLR/RCA inputs. If anyone knows, please let me know and show me where that data is...


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22788633
> 
> 
> As stated in the OPPO thread where you also posted this, that bar graph is not valid when using ANALOG-DIRECT. The fact that it is showing at all is a bug (minor) in the UI of the Anthem.
> 
> Use -6dB for the level adjustment in the D2v for the XLR inputs coming from the OPPO. You can then use Volume FIXED (or Variable 100) in the OPPO for its XLR output.
> 
> You can verify your levels with a calibration disc. Using Stereo audio mode in both cases, and ANALOG-DSP input for the Analog case the, XLR inputs should match the HDMI input.
> 
> (Using ANALOG-DIRECT the levels may differ since you have, in essence disabled ARC and bass steering. Whether the difference is enough to be noticeable depends on what ARC is doing in your room.)
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob, truly appreciate the help! I wasn't sure if this was an Oppo issue or an Anthem issue, hence posting the question in both forums. I got my Anthem just before Christmas, and the Oppo last week, so both are brand new to me (came from Pioneer Elite and Panasonic), so I appreciate the patience as I learn the new gear. I'm a quick study though!










Levels match perfectly between HDMI and 2-CH Analog with the settings you suggest.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22788747
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Why am i getting the pink bar(possible clipping) when i'm using Analog-DSP with my 105 XLR outs with the gain level set to -6dB in the Anthem menu?
> 
> 
> I thought you said the Oppo XLR outs and Anthem 2CH XLR in's are compatible when levels are set to -6dB? Anthems D2v datasheet doesn't seem to give the maximum input voltage on  its XLR/RCA inputs. If anyone knows, please let me know and show me where that data is...



Based on Bob's response, I would think you're clipping the DSP inputs on the D2v during conversion from Analog back to Digital for DSP processing. But, I'm obviously no expert!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22788760
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22788747
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Why am i getting the pink bar(possible clipping) when i'm using Analog-DSP with my 105 XLR outs with the gain level set to -6dB in the Anthem menu?
> 
> 
> I thought you said the Oppo XLR outs and Anthem 2CH XLR in's are compatible when levels are set to -6dB? Anthems D2v datasheet doesn't seem to give the maximum input voltage on  its XLR/RCA inputs. If anyone knows, please let me know and show me where that data is...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Based on Bob's response, I would think you're clipping the DSP inputs on the D2v during conversion from Analog back to Digital for DSP processing. But, I'm obviously no expert!
Click to expand...

Well something is not right here ... with Oppos 4.3Vrms XLR outputs saturating the Anthem's inputs?


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22788880
> 
> 
> Well something is not right here ... with Oppos 4.3Vrms XLR outputs saturating the Anthem's inputs?



This is what's been driving me crazy the past couple of days. Apparently, the Analog-DSP clips more easily than the Analog-DIR, I guess because it's engaging the digital DSP engine in the Anthem, hence the meter in the setup menu under the analog input trim?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22782447
> 
> 
> Oh, ok, I finally realized as I was composing this that I should be reading the curve from right-to-left, I was getting confused because I was reading in the other direction...thanks (to you and Texas Steve) for the explanation.
> 
> I checked the specs for my sub, and it says specifically
> Code:
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [CODE]Frequency Response: 20Hz - 150Hz ± 3dB
> (quasi-anechoic)    (typical in-room response 3-5Hz deeper)
> 
> [/CODE]
> Does that mean I can (or should) try the "flat" setting? I hear you saying maybe I should just let it go.
> 
> I do have neighbors on both sides, maybe for their peace I should leave it - I'm already afraid I'm rattling their dishes sometimes.
> 
> - Mark
> 
> P.S. Oh, and my sub doesn't have the plugable-port that ehlarson is referring to.



Here is the tested response for the SVS PB10-ISD sub

Notice how your ARC follows the same response curve.You cannot change the subs designed in features


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22788747
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Why am i getting the pink bar(possible clipping) when i'm using Analog-DSP with my 105 XLR outs with the gain level set to -6dB in the Anthem menu?
> 
> 
> I thought you said the Oppo XLR outs and Anthem 2CH XLR in's are compatible when levels are set to -6dB? Anthems D2v datasheet doesn't seem to give the maximum input voltage on  its XLR/RCA inputs. If anyone knows, please let me know and show me where that data is...


Odds are you are looking at the wrong line in the Input Levels menu. I.e., you are looking at a line for a Source with ANALOG-DIRECT set -- by mistake.

--bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22788952
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22788880
> 
> 
> Well something is not right here ... with Oppos 4.3Vrms XLR outputs saturating the Anthem's inputs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what's been driving me crazy the past couple of days. Apparently, the Analog-DSP clips more easily than the Analog-DIR, I guess because it's engaging the digital DSP engine in the Anthem, hence the meter in the setup menu under the analog input trim?
Click to expand...


Not true. Guys you are getting yourself tangled up here. This is just cockpit error, nothing more.

--Bob


----------



## p.las

I have sending anthem a email regards my low volume when the input is multichannel pcm. But no respons After 5 days. Is there more that one email adress to reach them? Thanks


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22789517
> 
> 
> I have sending anthem a email regards my low volume when the input is multichannel pcm. But no respons After 5 days. Is there more that one email adress to reach them? Thanks



I have tried to reload 3.09 again. But the low pcm volme is still there. What i dó not understand is, it have not allways been a issue in this 3.09 software....Strange


----------



## wingnut4772

Any scuttlebutt on the new audio formats being adopted by Anthem? DTS Neo X for example....I would imagine that would be a hardware upgrade, no?


----------



## obie_fl

Here's hoping we hear something from Anthem at CES. My D2 is getting long in the tooth and I keep running into limitations. I'd really like to see a new platform with IP control, USB (both data/audio) and at least 2 subwoofer channels. I suspect any new platform is still quite a ways out there but you never know.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22789223
> 
> 
> Here is the tested response for the SVS PB10-ISD sub
> 
> Notice how your ARC follows the same response curve.You cannot change the subs designed in features



Yes, I understand - interesting - but did you see my last post after changing it to "Flat" - it looks better to me, in fact. a lot closer to the tested response from TrueRTA at the low end - but I would think it would be flatter out to 200? Or is that drop-off by design (in ARC, I mean):


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22786725





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22786737
> 
> 
> Recalculate and upload, that's it.



Thanks for that.


- Mark


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22788431
> 
> 
> Because of this: The pic below is with the Oppo's volume set to 100, connected to the Anthem via XLR and set up on the 2-CH Bal input in the setup menu. Even with input trim on the Anthem set to -20dB, the level meter shows maxed-out clipping at the inputs. What I don't know is if it's a glitch, or if it's really clipping at the inputs. Any help you can provide on what I'm doing wrong would be greatly appreciated!



I have experienced the same thing. Anthem tech support says D2v tells you what it sees. I gave up.


----------



## paradigm25

Just to confirm.....


I SAVED USER AND INSTALLER SETTINGS before reloading new ARC results, and then reloaded the user settings.


I think this is the right way to reload ARC results, correct? It reloads everything but the older ARC, correct. Please confirm.


Also, I removed "NO SPEAKER" for the center channel for my MUSIC configuration, but center speaker still shows up as "Advanced" under speaker configuration for MUSIC. Am I missing something here?


Thanks.


----------



## dmusoke


Does anyone know the difference between Analog-Direct mode and Analog-DSP with Room EQ=OFF?

 

With the former, i hear the sound from an uncorrected room and it varies from awful to good, depending on the source material. But i can't seem to hear the difference using Analog-DSP between Room EQ=ON and Room EQ=OFF. Does this sound right?

 

- David


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22790910
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22789223
> 
> 
> Here is the tested response for the SVS PB10-ISD sub
> 
> Notice how your ARC follows the same response curve.You cannot change the subs designed in features
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I understand - interesting - but did you see my last post after changing it to "Flat" - it looks better to me, in fact. a lot closer to the tested response from TrueRTA at the low end - but I would think it would be flatter out to 200? Or is that drop-off by design (in ARC, I mean).
Click to expand...

 

Chileboy:

 

The Grounded plane subwoofer test done by TrueRTA was done outside or in an environment where no sound wave reflections would interact with each other and your subwoofer. But the ARC plots show the interaction of your sub with the room so you'll see anamalies including frequency response limits on both ends of the spectrum.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22791333
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22788431
> 
> 
> Because of this: The pic below is with the Oppo's volume set to 100, connected to the Anthem via XLR and set up on the 2-CH Bal input in the setup menu. Even with input trim on the Anthem set to -20dB, the level meter shows maxed-out clipping at the inputs. What I don't know is if it's a glitch, or if it's really clipping at the inputs. Any help you can provide on what I'm doing wrong would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have experienced the same thing. Anthem tech support says D2v tells you what it sees. I gave up.
Click to expand...

 

Sigh







!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22789251
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22788747
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> Why am i getting the pink bar(possible clipping) when i'm using Analog-DSP with my 105 XLR outs with the gain level set to -6dB in the Anthem menu?
> 
> 
> I thought you said the Oppo XLR outs and Anthem 2CH XLR in's are compatible when levels are set to -6dB? Anthems D2v datasheet doesn't seem to give the maximum input voltage on  its XLR/RCA inputs. If anyone knows, please let me know and show me where that data is...
> 
> 
> 
> Odds are you are looking at the wrong line in the Input Levels menu. I.e., you are looking at a line for a Source with ANALOG-DIRECT set -- by mistake.
> 
> --bob
Click to expand...

Not correct Bob. I'm looking at a source right now set for Analog-DSP and it clipping pink/red regardless of the analog input level setting.

 

While you may see this issue as trivial and possibly much to do about nothing, i'm greatly concerned about distorting my analog signal via clipping(RED?) or soft-limiting (PINK?) by the Anthem as analog is one of my primary listening modes of my D2v.

 

Anyways, i;ve sent mail to Anthem and hopeful someone is there to answer despite CES this week.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22791836
> 
> 
> Not correct Bob. I'm looking at a source right now set for Analog-DSP and it clipping pink/red regardless of the analog input level setting.
> 
> 
> While you may see this issue as trivial and possibly much to do about nothing, i'm greatly concerned about distorting my analog signal via clipping(RED?) or soft-limiting (PINK?) by the Anthem as analog is one of my primary listening modes of my D2v.
> 
> 
> Anyways, i;ve sent mail to Anthem and hopeful someone is there to answer despite CES this week.



dmusoke:


I would like to know if you are able to fix this problem. As I said; I had at length discussions about this with Anthem, and they just said, D2v tells you what it sees, by the way, it happens with my other source Sony ES5400 SACD player as well. I gave up.


Let me know please.


Thanks.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22791836
> 
> 
> Not correct Bob. I'm looking at a source right now set for Analog-DSP and it clipping pink/red regardless of the analog input level setting.
> 
> 
> While you may see this issue as trivial and possibly much to do about nothing, i'm greatly concerned about distorting my analog signal via clipping(RED?) or soft-limiting (PINK?) by the Anthem as analog is one of my primary listening modes of my D2v.
> 
> 
> Anyways, i;ve sent mail to Anthem and hopeful someone is there to answer despite CES this week.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22791946
> 
> 
> dmusoke:
> 
> I would like to know if you are able to fix this problem. As I said; I had at length discussions about this with Anthem, and they just said, D2v tells you what it sees, by the way, it happens with my other source Sony ES5400 SACD player as well. I gave up.
> 
> Let me know please.
> 
> Thanks.



Interesting as I do a lot of analog listening. I will not be at home for several more weeks so I cannot test what is happening on my D2v.

I am anxious to hear Anthem's reply so please give us a followup


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22791789
> 
> 
> Chileboy:
> 
> 
> The Grounded plane subwoofer test done by TrueRTA was done outside or in an environment where no sound wave reflections would interact with each other and your subwoofer. But the ARC plots show the interaction of your sub with the room so you'll see anamalies including frequency response limits on both ends of the spectrum?



OK, that makes sense.


I guess my only question is, am I correct that my results with the "Flat" setting are better than without?


Thanks,


- Mark


----------



## paradigm25

Have a question.


How generally one would setup a 5.1 DVD Audio, DVD of a music concert, or a SACD on D2v; with or without center channel (Movie configuration with Center Channel, Music configuration without Center Channel).


Thanks.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22791946
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22791836
> 
> 
> Not correct Bob. I'm looking at a source right now set for Analog-DSP and it clipping pink/red regardless of the analog input level setting.
> 
> 
> While you may see this issue as trivial and possibly much to do about nothing, i'm greatly concerned about distorting my analog signal via clipping(RED?) or soft-limiting (PINK?) by the Anthem as analog is one of my primary listening modes of my D2v.
> 
> 
> Anyways, i;ve sent mail to Anthem and hopeful someone is there to answer despite CES this week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dmusoke:
> 
> 
> I would like to know if you are able to fix this problem. As I said; I had at length discussions about this with Anthem, and they just said, D2v tells you what it sees, by the way, it happens with my other source Sony ES5400 SACD player as well. I gave up.
> 
> 
> Let me know please.
> 
> 
> Thanks.
Click to expand...

 

The 'solution' has been to reduce the volume output of the Oppo player. I do NOT consider this as a viable option as i run the risk of trading Oppo resolution instead. But the bigger question here is who is lying about their I/O analog specs, Oppo or Anthem. Both can't be correct as it currently stands.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22792268
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22791789
> 
> 
> Chileboy:
> 
> 
> The Grounded plane subwoofer test done by TrueRTA was done outside or in an environment where no sound wave reflections would interact with each other and your subwoofer. But the ARC plots show the interaction of your sub with the room so you'll see anamalies including frequency response limits on both ends of the spectrum?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, that makes sense.
> 
> 
> I guess my only question is, am I correct that my results with the "Flat" setting are better than without?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> - Mark
Click to expand...

 

Mark:

 

In your case and with your subs response, the answer is yes. Flat is better than Auto.

 

Maybe, i just didn't realize but ARC has otherfilter settings than flat or auto. Has anyone tried "1st order", "2nd order", "3rd order" .... "8th order"







?

Apparently, you can specify the roll-off (high-end & low end) of your subwoofer via these filters. I wasn't aware they existed







.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22792493
> 
> 
> The 'solution' has been to reduce the volume output of the Oppo player. I do NOT consider this as a viable option as i run the risk of trading Oppo resolution instead. But the bigger question here is who is lying about their I/O analog specs, Oppo or Anthem. Both can't be correct as it currently stands.



Have you actually tried it to see what the volume is?


Just set the XLR sourced input level to -6dB in the D2v's Input Level menu and compare to the (0dB adjusted) RCA sourced input level playing the same content (e.g., a calibration disc) and using an SPL meter.


I guarantee you there is not a 20dB (or greater) difference.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22792377
> 
> 
> Have a question.
> 
> 
> How generally one would setup a 5.1 DVD Audio, DVD of a music concert, or a SACD on D2v; with or without center channel (Movie configuration with Center Channel, Music configuration without Center Channel).
> 
> 
> Thanks.


 

You should be able to easily select/de-select the speakers you want or don't want turned on in the initial setup screen.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22792377
> 
> 
> Have a question.
> 
> 
> How generally one would setup a 5.1 DVD Audio, DVD of a music concert, or a SACD on D2v; with or without center channel (Movie configuration with Center Channel, Music configuration without Center Channel).
> 
> 
> Thanks.



In my case I use my Movie configuration for playing multi-channel music. It is built in ARC with all speakers included.


I use the Music configuration for playing stereo music. It is built in ARC with all speakers included EXCEPT for the Center speaker. For my music Sources, I have the Mode Preset for 2.0 input set to Stereo mode. Thus I get output on LF/RF/Sub. However, if I want to incorporate the surround speakers for a given piece, I can use the Mode button and Up/Down Arrows to change that on the fly to, for example, PLIIx-Music. Since the Music configuration was built without Center, that results in audio on all the speakers EXCEPT Center (better stereo sound stage in the front).

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22792605
> 
> 
> You should be able to easily select/de-select the speakers you want or don't want turned on in the initial setup screen.



dmusoke;


Yes, I say No Speaker for Center for Music Configuration during ARC; my question is how you guys have it setup for 5.1 DVD-A, SACD, or a DVD of a Music Concert; with or without center channel?


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You don't want to exclude Center while playing multi-channel music. The Center channel content designed in as part of the mix should be played in the Center speaker.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22792644
> 
> 
> ^ You don't want to exclude Center while playing multi-channel music. The Center channel content designed in as part of the mix should be played in the Center speaker.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob. You answered my question.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22791836
> 
> 
> Not correct Bob. I'm looking at a source right now set for Analog-DSP and it clipping pink/red regardless of the analog input level setting.
> 
> 
> While you may see this issue as trivial and possibly much to do about nothing, i'm greatly concerned about distorting my analog signal via clipping(RED?) or soft-limiting (PINK?) by the Anthem as analog is one of my primary listening modes of my D2v.
> 
> 
> Anyways, i;ve sent mail to Anthem and hopeful someone is there to answer despite CES this week.



The analog level settings in the Anthem do no effect the analog *input levels*. Something else is over driving the Anthem analog input



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22791946
> 
> 
> dmusoke:
> 
> I would like to know if you are able to fix this problem. As I said; I had at length discussions about this with Anthem, and they just said, D2v tells you what it sees, by the way, it happens with my other source Sony ES5400 SACD player as well. I gave up.
> 
> Let me know please.
> 
> Thanks.



The manual says the level indicators do not function for analog. So what do you have connected that is driving the inputs into distortion ?

Might I suggest you disconnect everything except one set of analog inputs, And then check


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22792577
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22792493
> 
> 
> The 'solution' has been to reduce the volume output of the Oppo player. I do NOT consider this as a viable option as i run the risk of trading Oppo resolution instead. But the bigger question here is who is lying about their I/O analog specs, Oppo or Anthem. Both can't be correct as it currently stands.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you actually tried it to see what the volume is?
> 
> 
> Just set the XLR sourced input level to -6dB in the D2v's Input Level menu and compare to the (0dB adjusted) RCA sourced input level playing the same content (e.g., a calibration disc) and using an SPL meter.
> 
> 
> I guarantee you there is not a 20dB (or greater) difference.
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...

 

No its not Bob...

 

But what has been observed is that regardless of how much you reduce the input level gain, it has no effect on the observed clipping indicator.

 

Since we are supposed to trust the indicator implicitly, and its telling us we are clipping the analog inputs when using the Analog-DSP mode, we are at a loss to explain why that is the case, hence the apparent uproar over this issue. Obviously, no one wants to risk clipping their equipments analog stage only present a distorted signal to the processing DSPs which as we all know would produce distorted outputs to our amplifiers.

 

- David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22792699
> 
> 
> The analog level settings in the Anthem do no effect the analog *input levels*. Something else is over driving the Anthem analog input
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> The manual says the level indicators do not function for analog. So what do you have connected that is driving the inputs into distortion ?
> 
> Might I suggest you disconnect everything except one set of analog inputs, And then check



Huh? Umm, yes, they do.


Setup > Analog Input Levels


And the bar graph level indicator available in that menu functions for Analog-DSP input -- both stereo and 6-Ch.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22792644
> 
> 
> ^ You don't want to exclude Center while playing multi-channel music. The Center channel content designed in as part of the mix should be played in the Center speaker.
> 
> --Bob



Also, Bob noticed one thing; when I have two configurations; one for Movie and one for Music, and when I press the Select button several times, at the end MAIN TONE CONTROLS shows up as ENABLED for a 5.1 track, it has always been Disabled so far. Just curious why, is it correct?


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22792710
> 
> 
> No its not Bob...
> 
> 
> But what has been observed is that regardless of how much you reduce the input level gain, it has no effect on the observed clipping indicator.
> 
> Since we are supposed to trust the indicator implicitly, and its telling us we are clipping the analog inputs when using the Analog-DSP mode, we are at a loss to explain why that is the case, hence the apparent uproar over this issue. Obviously, no one wants to risk clipping their equipments analog stage only present a distorted signal to the processing DSPs which as we all know would produce distorted outputs to our amplifiers.
> 
> 
> - David



OK, so let's all take a deep breath.


There is NOTHING WRONG with the XLR output voltage of the OPPO, nor with the XLR input sensitivity of the D2v.


As expected, the D2v needs -6dB attenuation of the XLR input to match the RCA input level. This can be accomplished by putting a -6dB adjustment in Setup > Analog Input Levels for each Source which is set to use the 2-Ch Balanced (XLR) inputs. The volume on the OPPO can be set at either FIXED or Variable 100.


Now, I still think there is something you are missing such that you are using ANALOG-DIRECT in your test where you are seeing the bogus bar graph.


But perhaps there really is a new bug you've triggered which has screwed up the bar graph for the XLR input even for ANALOG-DSP. In any event, there is OBVIOUSLY not 20dB of clipping going on here. If that were the case then it would be blatantly audible even in quieter passages.


(NOTE: Clipping CAN happen if you run the OPPO at full volume and do NOT attenuate the XLR input -6dB in the D2v. So use the -6dB in Analog Input Levels as recommended.)


In early D2v test firmware leading to version 3, the bar graph was not responsive at all for the 6-CH input. That got fixed quite some time back. So there certainly could be a bug in the bar graph for the XLR input. I'm just not aware of one.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22792755
> 
> 
> Also, Bob noticed one thing; when I have two configurations; one for Movie and one for Music, and when I press the Select button several times, at the end MAIN TONE CONTROLS shows up as ENABLED for a 5.1 track, it has always been Disabled so far. Just curious why, is it correct?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



The Tone Controls ENABLED vs. DISABLED choice is a "temporary" setting. That means it gets reset to Enabled every time your Reload Factory Defaults -- such as when doing a firmware install. "Temporary" settings are not saved in User or Installer Settings, so your Disabled choice doesn't get restored when you Load Saved User Settings AFTER the firmware install.


Just change it back to Disabled again and you are good to go until your next reset.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25

Thanks again Bob.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22792770
> 
> 
> OK, so let's all take a deep breath.
> 
> There is NOTHING WRONG with the XLR output voltage of the OPPO, nor with the XLR input sensitivity of the D2v.
> 
> As expected, the D2v needs -6dB attenuation of the XLR input to match the RCA input level. This can be accomplished by putting a -6dB adjustment in Setup > Analog Input Levels for each Source which is set to use the 2-Ch Balanced (XLR) inputs. The volume on the OPPO can be set at either FIXED or Variable 100.
> 
> Now, I still think there is something you are missing such that you are using ANALOG-DIRECT in your test where you are seeing the bogus bar graph.
> 
> But perhaps there really is a new bug you've triggered which has screwed up the bar graph for the XLR input even for ANALOG-DSP. In any event, there is OBVIOUSLY not 20dB of clipping going on here. If that were the case then it would be blatantly audible even in quieter passages.
> 
> (NOTE: Clipping CAN happen if you run the OPPO at full volume and do NOT attenuate the XLR input -6dB in the D2v. So use the -6dB in Analog Input Levels as recommended.)
> 
> In early D2v test firmware leading to version 3, the bar graph was not responsive at all for the 6-CH input. That got fixed quite some time back. So there certainly could be a bug in the bar graph for the XLR input. I'm just not aware of one.
> 
> --Bob



So, I wonder if the clipping I HEAR is inherent in the source - CD, USB, etc... due to compression? I don't listen to a whole lot of jazz or classical, but I will say, I have an Emotiva sampler disc from one of the previous Emo-fest's and it sounds really good in Analog-DIR. I guess I need to go buy a volt meter (?) to put this to rest once and for all.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793162
> 
> 
> So, I wonder if the clipping I HEAR is inherent in the source - CD, USB, etc... due to compression? I don't listen to a whole lot of jazz or classical, but I will say, I have an Emotiva sampler disc from one of the previous Emo-fest's and it sounds really good in Analog-DIR. I guess I need to go buy a volt meter (?) to put this to rest once and for all.



Have you lowered the Setup > Analog Input Levels value to -6dB for *EACH* Source line which is using the 2-Ch Balanced (XLR) inputs?

--Bob


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22792710
> 
> 
> No its not Bob...
> 
> 
> But what has been observed is that regardless of how much you reduce the input level gain, it has no effect on the observed clipping indicator.
> 
> 
> Since we are supposed to trust the indicator implicitly, and its telling us we are clipping the analog inputs when using the Analog-DSP mode, we are at a loss to explain why that is the case, hence the apparent uproar over this issue. Obviously, no one wants to risk clipping their equipments analog stage only present a distorted signal to the processing DSPs which as we all know would produce distorted outputs to our amplifiers.
> 
> 
> - David



My AVM 50v actually shows clipping on the bar graph in Analog-DIR. I'm not using Analog-DSP. I don't hear a difference though between Opp 80/0dB AVM 50v and Oppo 100/-6dB AVM 50v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793223
> 
> 
> My AVM 50v actually shows clipping on the bar graph in Analog-DIR. I'm not using Analog-DSP. I don't hear a difference though between Opp 80/0dB AVM 50v and Oppo 100/-6dB AVM 50v.



Forget about the bar graph. *As has been stated multiple times, it does not produce valid data when using Analog-Direct.*


I ask again, are you HEARING clipping when playing stereo content, with the OPPO at Volume 100, with Stereo Signal DOWN MIX STEREO set, and with the AVM 50v Analog Input Levels set to -6dB for whichever Source line you are have selected to use with the XLR inputs?

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22792770
> 
> 
> OK, so let's all take a deep breath.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is NOTHING WRONG with the XLR output voltage of the OPPO, nor with the XLR input sensitivity of the D2v.
> 
> As expected, the D2v needs -6dB attenuation of the XLR input to match the RCA input level.
> 
> This can be accomplished by putting a -6dB adjustment in Setup > Analog Input Levels for each Source which is set to use the 2-Ch Balanced (XLR) inputs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The volume on the OPPO can be set at either FIXED or Variable 100.
> 
> Now, I still think there is something you are missing such that you are using ANALOG-DIRECT in your test where you are seeing the bogus bar graph.
> 
> But perhaps there really is a new bug you've triggered which has screwed up the bar graph for the XLR input even for ANALOG-DSP. In any event, there is OBVIOUSLY not 20dB of clipping going on here. If that were the case then it would be blatantly audible even in quieter passages.
> 
> (NOTE: Clipping CAN happen if you run the OPPO at full volume and do NOT attenuate the XLR input -6dB in the D2v. So use the -6dB in Analog Input Levels as recommended.)
> 
> In early D2v test firmware leading to version 3, the bar graph was not responsive at all for the 6-CH input. That got fixed quite some time back. So there certainly could be a bug in the bar graph for the XLR input. I'm just not aware of one.
> 
> --Bob



Bob


Not trying to split hairs just get a clearer understanding


Am I correct in saying that to be clearer your statement should say for the XLR source not each source as there can only be one XLR stereo input source.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793248
> 
> 
> Forget about the bar graph. *As has been stated multiple times, it does not produce valid data when using Analog-Direct.*
> 
> I ask again, are you HEARING clipping when playing stereo content, with the OPPO at Volume 100, with Stereo Signal DOWN MIX STEREO set, and with the AVM 50v Analog Input Levels set to -6dB for whichever Source line you are have selected to use with the XLR inputs?
> 
> --Bob



I am only using HDMI and XLR outputs from the Oppo, and I have 2-CH set to -6dB in the Anthem and the Oppo set to 100. I am not using any other analog inputs on the Anthem, nor am I using Analog-DSP.


I believe that I am hearing some clipping... it's coming across as coarse, harsh high frequencies when playing in the Analog-DIR mode at elevated volumes (-40 to -30 on the Anthem volume setting). SPL levels match between HDMI and Analog-DIR.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793297
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793248
> 
> 
> Forget about the bar graph. *As has been stated multiple times, it does not produce valid data when using Analog-Direct.*
> 
> I ask again, are you HEARING clipping when playing stereo content, with the OPPO at Volume 100, with Stereo Signal DOWN MIX STEREO set, and with the AVM 50v Analog Input Levels set to -6dB for whichever Source line you are have selected to use with the XLR inputs?
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am only using HDMI and XLR outputs from the Oppo, and I have 2-CH set to -6dB in the Anthem and the Oppo set to 100. I am not using any other analog inputs on the Anthem, nor am I using Analog-DSP.
> 
> 
> I believe that I am hearing some clipping... it's coming across as coarse, harsh high frequencies when playing in the Analog-DIR mode at elevated volumes (-40 to -30 on the Anthem volume setting). SPL levels match between HDMI and Analog-DIR.
Click to expand...


OK, next step: While using the XLR outputs, reduce the OPPO Volume by 6 steps to 94 (LEAVE the -6dB set in the AVM 50v). Does the character of the "clipping" change? For example does it go away? If NOT then what you are hearing is IN THE CONTENT. (It may be more obvious using ANALOG-DIRECT because ARC isn't in the picture distracting you with improved sound elsewhere.)


If it DOES go away, then raise the output volume of the Anthem by +3dB (not +6dB). Does the problem come back? If so, then you are not clipping the Inputs but rather you are over-driving your amps/speakers.


(Input clipping is NOT a function of the output volume of the Anthem.)

*Also, double check that you have Stereo Signal DOWN MIX STEREO set* since otherwise any volume trim settings you may have in place in the OPPO for LF/RF of the multi-channel set will affect those Dedicated Stereo Outputs.


Also, do one more thing: Change the Stereo Signal setting in the OPPO to FRONT LEFT/RIGHT and then immediately back to DOWN MIX STEREO. Does the problem go away?

--bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793297
> 
> 
> I am only using HDMI and XLR outputs from the Oppo, and I have 2-CH set to -6dB in the Anthem and the Oppo set to 100. I am not using any other analog inputs on the Anthem, nor am I using Analog-DSP.
> 
> I believe that I am hearing some clipping... it's coming across as coarse, harsh high frequencies when playing in the Analog-DIR mode at elevated volumes (-40 to -30 on the Anthem volume setting). SPL levels match between HDMI and Analog-DIR.



As a test

Remove the -6db adjustment and see if you still hear distortion in analog DIR


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22790253
> 
> 
> I have tried to reload 3.09 again. But the low pcm volme is still there. What i dó not understand is, it have not allways been a issue in this 3.09 software....Strange



Anybody - please


No response from anthem . Have tryed to send the and mail. Is there a better Way to mail them?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793347
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22790253
> 
> 
> I have tried to reload 3.09 again. But the low pcm volme is still there. What i dó not understand is, it have not allways been a issue in this 3.09 software....Strange
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody - please
Click to expand...


What makes you think the LPCM volume is low? What are you comparing to what?


I see no problem with LPCM volume in the D2v with V3.09f.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793346
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793297
> 
> 
> I am only using HDMI and XLR outputs from the Oppo, and I have 2-CH set to -6dB in the Anthem and the Oppo set to 100. I am not using any other analog inputs on the Anthem, nor am I using Analog-DSP.
> 
> I believe that I am hearing some clipping... it's coming across as coarse, harsh high frequencies when playing in the Analog-DIR mode at elevated volumes (-40 to -30 on the Anthem volume setting). SPL levels match between HDMI and Analog-DIR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a test
> 
> Remove the -6db adjustment and see if you still hear distortion in analog DIR
Click to expand...


If it's truly clipping the input (and I still don't believe that), removing the -6dB input attenuation in the Anthem is taking things the wrong direction.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793361
> 
> 
> What makes you think the LPCM volume is low? What are you comparing to what?
> 
> I see no problem with LPCM volume in the D2v with V3.09f.
> 
> --Bob



Bitstream vs pcm...pcm is Down by 20db. I am using te first software that fixes the det mappens. 3.09


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793286
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Not trying to split hairs just get a clearer understanding
> 
> 
> Am I correct in saying that to be clearer your statement should say for the XLR source not each source as there can only be one XLR stereo input source.



Nope. Just as you can have more than one Source defined to use the HDMI 1 input, you can have more than one Source defined to use the 2CH-Balanced (XLR) Analog input.


I have a sneaking suspicion there may be a problem here with people applying the Analog Input Level adjustment to THE WRONG SOURCE line.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793366
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793361
> 
> 
> What makes you think the LPCM volume is low? What are you comparing to what?
> 
> I see no problem with LPCM volume in the D2v with V3.09f.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Bitstream vs pcm...pcm is Down by 20db. I am using te first software that fixes the det mappens. 3.09
Click to expand...


What are you using as your test content and Source device?

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22791946
> 
> 
> dmusoke:
> 
> I would like to know if you are able to fix this problem. As I said; I had at length discussions about this with Anthem, and they just said, D2v tells you what it sees, by the way, it happens with my other source Sony ES5400 SACD player as well.



Clipping should not be happening with this player. The Sony has the lowest XLR output of any SACD player I know... A good 6dB lower than the Oppo according to the Stereophile review.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793396
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22791946
> 
> 
> dmusoke:
> 
> I would like to know if you are able to fix this problem. As I said; I had at length discussions about this with Anthem, and they just said, D2v tells you what it sees, by the way, it happens with my other source Sony ES5400 SACD player as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clipping should not be happening with this player. The Sony has the lowest XLR output of any SACD player I know... A good 6dB lower than the Oppo according to the Stereophile review.
Click to expand...


I'm pretty sure this is going to turn out that either he is playing faulty content (a bad recording -- we've all been there) or he is overdriving his amps/speakers. He may even have blown a tweeter and is hearing that.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793366
> 
> 
> Bitstream vs pcm...pcm is Down by 20db. I am using te first software that fixes the det mappens. 3.09



Peter, since I rarely use PCM, I just tested my 50v with Oppo 83 for you. I measured exactly the same levels in TrueHD, DTS-HD and PCM. So no problem here and Firmware is at v3.09c.


Please check if you have any volume trims applied in PCM mode. Save user settings and load factory defaults, then test again.


Note that you might as well install 3,09c while you're at it, because it has a very important bug fix for the 50v low power-up volume problem. PM me for details if you want.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793297
> 
> 
> I am only using HDMI and XLR outputs from the Oppo, and I have 2-CH set to -6dB in the Anthem and the Oppo set to 100. I am not using any other analog inputs on the Anthem, nor am I using Analog-DSP.
> 
> I believe that I am hearing some clipping... it's coming across as coarse, harsh high frequencies when playing in the Analog-DIR mode at elevated volumes (-40 to -30 on the Anthem volume setting). SPL levels match between HDMI and Analog-DIR.



"elevated volumes" @ -40 to -30 on the Anthem volume setting?!


Also you are saying the exact same material sounds fine via HDMI at the same elevated levels?


Did you just get the Oppo or have you tested its analog stage before in another system?


Stefan


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793371
> 
> 
> What are you using as your test content and Source device?
> 
> --Bob



i am using and Oppo bdp 83. i have testing it on many films. When anthem decodes - no problem. When Oppo decodes the volume falls 20db. I have also try to use the AIX test disc. And the LPCM 7.1 is also down by 20db. So it seams to bee a problem with all multichannel LPCM...i have not tested it with my squeezebox. I will try to do that , when i get home from work

The funny thing is - for one or two months ago, i was seen the new Total recall. And there was a major audio dropout when it was bitstream. So i set my oppo to output LPCM , and that s solved the problem....no low volume. So the problem has not been there all the time , after i have uploaded the 3.09 software.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793468
> 
> 
> Peter, since I rarely use PCM, I just tested my 50v with Oppo 83 for you. I measured exactly the same levels in TrueHD, DTS-HD and PCM. So no problem here and Firmware is at v3.09c.
> 
> Please check if you have any volume trims applied in PCM mode. Save user settings and load factory defaults, then test again.
> 
> Note that you might as well install 3,09c while you're at it, because it has a very important bug fix for the 50v low power-up volume problem. PM me for details if you want.



okay - my firmware is the first 3.09


at this piont , my problem is that i can not get any respons from anthem tec - emailed them monday last week. i need a code to exit there protected side.


i will also try to use factory defaults , to see if that makes any change. But the only place i can set som different levels for PCM is on the remote , right...?


----------



## AV_mike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39510#post_22792562
> 
> 
> Mark:
> 
> 
> In your case and with your subs response, the answer is yes. Flat is better than Auto.
> 
> 
> Maybe, i just didn't realize but ARC has otherfilter settings than flat or auto. Has anyone tried "1st order", "2nd order", "3rd order" .... "8th order"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> Apparently, you can specify the roll-off (high-end & low end) of your subwoofer via these filters. I wasn't aware they existed .



The filter order setting only applies to the low-end roll off (the high pass filter), the upper end is controlled to complement the satellite roll off. With careful adjustment you can extend the lower frequency range, whilst still rolling off the very lowest frequencies if your sub can't really produce them. This may be preferable to the flat setting for a number of users, and also better than auto, which can prematurely roll off the output - but it needs to be tested - probably why Anthem say only for Pro-Cal use (or something similar).

Regards, Mike.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793364
> 
> 
> If it's truly clipping the input (and I still don't believe that), removing the -6dB input attenuation in the Anthem is taking things the wrong direction.
> 
> --Bob




Yes, My error.


Sometimes you should just call it a night and go to bed


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793369
> 
> 
> Nope. Just as you can have more than one Source defined to use the HDMI 1 input, you can have more than one Source defined to use the 2CH-Balanced (XLR) Analog input.
> 
> I have a sneaking suspicion there may be a problem here with people applying the Analog Input Level adjustment to THE WRONG SOURCE line.
> 
> --Bob



Bob


For some reason I just can not get my head around what you are saying.

if there is only one pair of XLR cables, coming from a single audio component, connected to the single rear input pair available, how can there be multiple sources ?

I understand you are able to assign multiple source buttons to the XLR pair but it still only feeds one audio signal (source).


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39420#post_22768949
> 
> 
> Nick or Bob,
> 
> With the 3D board, will it be possible in the future to passthrough 4K material? Or a new processor is coming that will be able to passthrough and upconvert to 4K?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Christian



Seen as how 4k will be the buzz this week at CES anyone with any thoughts on this, before I spend the 1,650.00 for the 3D? If it could just passthrough 4k I would be future proofed for a little longer.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793829
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> For some reason I just can not get my head around what you are saying.
> 
> if there is only one pair of XLR cables, coming from a single audio component, connected to the single rear input pair available, how can there be multiple sources ?
> 
> I understand you are able to assign multiple source buttons to the XLR pair but it still only feeds one audio signal (source).



Stew, if you look at Boyce's screen shot here you will see there is an adjustment line for CD DVD1/2/3 etc. The list goes by logical INPUT not physical connection. Any number of these inputs could have ANALOG IN assigned to XLR as you said, therefore the -6dB needs to be applied accordingly is all Bob's saying.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22788431


----------



## Walt4Audio

Good morning, everyone. Making my first post on AVS forum. I recently purchased a lightly used Anthem AVM50v from an out of state seller on Audiogon. Everything was going fine till I tried downloading the ARC microphone installation disc. My laptop saw the UDF files and installation went smoothly - until it was interrupted downloading the setup.exe and gave me the following error message:


"SOURCE FILE NOT FOUND

F:/AnthemRoomCorrection.exe.manifest

Verify that the file exists and that you can access it"


The disc seemed clean but wiped it down with a microfiber cloth just in case - with no changes in results. Also tried downloading it onto my desktop with Windows Vista and the same error message came up. Waiting to hear from the seller. Any idea what might be causing this - or how I may get this rectified?


Thanks in advance,

Walt


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22794429
> 
> 
> Stew, if you look at Boyce's screen shot here you will see there is an adjustment line for CD DVD1/2/3 etc. The list goes by logical INPUT not physical connection. Any number of these inputs could have ANALOG IN assigned to XLR as you said, therefore the -6dB needs to be applied accordingly is all Bob's saying.
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22788431



That I understand. What I am saying is only *1* audio source could and should have the XLR -6db attenuation applied. Other sources could be Analog-DIR but they

would have to be single ended (RCA).

Now what I am curious about is this.

Anthem has always said using Analog-DIR is pass through and only the Master volume control is in the circuit when Analog-DIR is selected.

Then how do they adjust the volume of each source ?

Hopefully, not digitally as you would lose resolution bits. And if analog. How ? Resistor ladders, potentiometer ?

Is there then two possible sources of audio distortion because there are

two volume adjustments ?

I do know that if your analog source overdrives the circuit the analog input level

adjustment does not correct the over driven circuit so it appears Anthem is

doing something with the analog they have not made public


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Walt4Audio*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22794525
> 
> 
> Good morning, everyone. Making my first post on AVS forum. I recently purchased a lightly used Anthem AVM50v from an out of state seller on Audiogon. Everything was going fine till I tried downloading the ARC microphone installation disc. My laptop saw the UDF files and installation went smoothly - until it was interrupted downloading the setup.exe and gave me the following error message:
> 
> "SOURCE FILE NOT FOUND
> 
> F:/AnthemRoomCorrection.exe.manifest
> 
> Verify that the file exists and that you can access it"
> 
> The disc seemed clean but wiped it down with a microfiber cloth just in case - with no changes in results. Also tried downloading it onto my desktop with Windows Vista and the same error message came up. Waiting to hear from the seller. Any idea what might be causing this - or how I may get this rectified?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Walt



Follow the instructions exactly as in the manual


In case its a CD disk problem you can download the latest ARC 3.02 HERE 


Make sure you are using only the Keyspan Model USA 19HS Serial to USB adapter


After you run setup you should have the following files in a Program Files/Anthem/Anthem Room Correction folder

The numbers on the .cal and .file should be your unit serial number and the microphone serial number. The image has mine


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22794429
> 
> 
> Stew, if you look at Boyce's screen shot here you will see there is an adjustment line for CD DVD1/2/3 etc. The list goes by logical INPUT not physical connection. Any number of these inputs could have ANALOG IN assigned to XLR as you said, therefore the -6dB needs to be applied accordingly is all Bob's saying.
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22788431



Thanks all for the help. I have actually adjusted every input it the set up menu to -6dB as a precaution Until i cabin did into it a little more. I am at CES this week and hope to spend some time at the Anthem suite where I'll be asking the same questions.


----------



## p.las

Have now tried to use my squeezebox - no problem. Oppo playing cd with hdmi connection , in the same input A's i use for movie - no problem


----------



## cvinfig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Walt4Audio*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22794525
> 
> 
> Good morning, everyone. Making my first post on AVS forum. I recently purchased a lightly used Anthem AVM50v from an out of state seller on Audiogon. Everything was going fine till I tried downloading the ARC microphone installation disc. My laptop saw the UDF files and installation went smoothly - until it was interrupted downloading the setup.exe and gave me the following error message:
> 
> "SOURCE FILE NOT FOUND
> 
> F:/AnthemRoomCorrection.exe.manifest
> 
> Verify that the file exists and that you can access it"
> 
> The disc seemed clean but wiped it down with a microfiber cloth just in case - with no changes in results. Also tried downloading it onto my desktop with Windows Vista and the same error message came up. Waiting to hear from the seller. Any idea what might be causing this - or how I may get this rectified?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Walt





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22794741
> 
> 
> Follow the instructions exactly as in the manual
> 
> In case its a CD disk problem you can download the latest ARC 3.02 HERE




I had the same problem when trying to install from the disc included with my ARC kit. Downloading from the link provided above worked for me...


----------



## Walt4Audio

Thank you for your quick replies, Thestewman and Cvinfig. It worked! The trouble was the original installation disc was indeed missing the exe.manifest file. After downloading and unzipping the arc_cd_v3.0.2, followed directions in the readme file. Dragged and copied the 4 files from my installation disc not found onto the arc_cd_v3.0.2, then was able to execute setup.exe. Worked like a charm.


Thanks again for the great advice.










Walt


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22794628
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22794429
> 
> 
> Stew, if you look at Boyce's screen shot here you will see there is an adjustment line for CD DVD1/2/3 etc. The list goes by logical INPUT not physical connection. Any number of these inputs could have ANALOG IN assigned to XLR as you said, therefore the -6dB needs to be applied accordingly is all Bob's saying.
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22788431
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That I understand. What I am saying is only *1* audio source could and should have the XLR -6db attenuation applied. Other sources could be Analog-DIR but they
> 
> would have to be single ended (RCA).
> 
> Now what I am curious about is this.
> *Anthem has always said using Analog-DIR is pass through and only the Master volume control is in the circuit when Analog-DIR is selected.
> 
> Then how do they adjust the volume of each source ?
> 
> Hopefully, not digitally as you would lose resolution bits. And if analog. How ? Resistor ladders, potentiometer ?*
> 
> Is there then two possible sources of audio distortion because there are
> 
> two volume adjustments ?
> 
> I do know that if your analog source overdrives the circuit the analog input level
> 
> adjustment does not correct the over driven circuit so it appears Anthem is
> 
> doing something with the analog they have not made public
Click to expand...

 

Stew:

 

I got a partial answer to your question from Piero this morning when he said Analog-DIR only goes through the volume control, which is really a programmable potentiometer, probably with eeprom inside it to save the default boot-up setting. It's resistance is controlled digitally without digitizing the analog signal if that makes sense. Many companies make them but one of the best known audiophile one is the CS3310 by Cirrus Semiconductor http://www.cirrus.com/en/pubs/proDatasheet/CS3310_F1.pdf

 

I'm sure others exist but only know of this one.

 

EDIT ... found CS3308 and CS3318 as well. And this tells me that the volume control only affects the analog outputs and not inputs. Thats why it seems to be irrelevant from the clipping problem shown in the level indicator which i presume shows volume levels at the analog inputs only.

 

- David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22794429
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22793829
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> For some reason I just can not get my head around what you are saying.
> 
> if there is only one pair of XLR cables, coming from a single audio component, connected to the single rear input pair available, how can there be multiple sources ?
> 
> I understand you are able to assign multiple source buttons to the XLR pair but it still only feeds one audio signal (source).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stew, if you look at Boyce's screen shot here you will see there is an adjustment line for CD DVD1/2/3 etc. The list goes by logical INPUT not physical connection. Any number of these inputs could have ANALOG IN assigned to XLR as you said, therefore the -6dB needs to be applied accordingly is all Bob's saying.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39480#post_22788431
Click to expand...


AVFILE, correct. The point being, if you've assigned the 2-Ch Balanced (XLR) as you Analog input jacks for, say, the DVD1 "Source", but then mistakenly make the -6dB adjustment only on the 2-CH line in Setup > Analog Input Levels, that adjustment won't do what you think it is doing. It applies only when you select the 2-CH Source for viewing, not the DVD1 Source.


THESTEWMAN, nomenclature is a problem for a setup as flexible as this. For the Anthems, I've been using Source to mean your choice of input source definition, e.g., DVD2. For the physical device that might be defined for use when viewing a given Source I've been using Source Device. Each Source gets it's video from a Source Device and possibly its audio from a different Source Device.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Walt4Audio*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22794525
> 
> 
> Good morning, everyone. Making my first post on AVS forum. I recently purchased a lightly used Anthem AVM50v from an out of state seller on Audiogon. Everything was going fine till I tried downloading the ARC microphone installation disc. My laptop saw the UDF files and installation went smoothly - until it was interrupted downloading the setup.exe and gave me the following error message:
> 
> 
> "SOURCE FILE NOT FOUND
> 
> F:/AnthemRoomCorrection.exe.manifest
> 
> Verify that the file exists and that you can access it"
> 
> 
> The disc seemed clean but wiped it down with a microfiber cloth just in case - with no changes in results. Also tried downloading it onto my desktop with Windows Vista and the same error message came up. Waiting to hear from the seller. Any idea what might be causing this - or how I may get this rectified?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Walt



At some point in the past, Anthem shipped some ARC kits with an install disc that was missing one of the pieces. Evidently you got one of those.


As you've discovered, you can do the install with the version downloaded from the Anthem site. Just make sure you copy over the two files (ARC license and ARC mic calibration file) from the original, faulty, install CD as well.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22794628
> 
> 
> That I understand. What I am saying is only *1* audio source could and should have the XLR -6db attenuation applied. Other sources could be Analog-DIR but they
> 
> would have to be single ended (RCA).
> 
> 
> . . . .



What you are missing is that the same Analog Input Level adjustment might not be desirable for each Source that happens to be set up to get its Analog audio from a single Source Device.


The way the Analog Input Level menu is set up, you get to specify the adjustment on a per-Source definition basis, even if multiple Sources are sharing the same Analog input Source Device.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22794975
> 
> 
> Have now tried to use my squeezebox - no problem. Oppo playing cd with hdmi connection , in the same input A's i use for movie - no problem



Please try to take a little more time when you post. Your posts are so cryptic it is hard to follow you. For example, what the heck is an Input A?


What you describe sounds like a problem with the "temporary" volume trim adjustments when playing multi-channel LPCM. If I understand this latest cryptic post, the problem is not happening when playing stereo LPCM


To test this, find a move with a STEREO Bitstream track and compare Bitstream vs. LPCM.


Now if this is what is happening there are two possible explanations. The most likely is that you have "temporary" volume trim adjustments set for multi-channel LPCM which you have forgotten about.


To reset ALL of the temporary volume trims at once, go into Setup > Save and Restore Settings and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video, continue via the Front Panel display

3) Reload Saved User Settings


Since "temporary" settings are not saved, this resets all of them. *PLEASE TRY THIS FIRST AND REPORT WHETHER IT FIXES YOUR PROBLEM.*


The next possible problem is that there is something screwed up in the memory for the temporary settings. This could be due to corrupted Setup settings.


To test this, Save User Settings (so you can recover more easily). Reload Factory Defaults, and now MANUALLY RE-ENTER just the bare minimum settings need to play from the player and test LPCM vs. Bitstream volume.


If THIS fixes the problem, then Manually re-enter the REST of your settings -- a chore to be sure, but still the right thing to do -- and you should be good to go.

--Bob


----------



## steven2583

Looking at this forum I see a lot on ARC, some HDMI, and some video issues but mostly audio issues. Has anyone really spend much time tweaking the video via the D2v? I look at the LiveVideoSettingsEditor and there seems to be about the same controls as a TV or blu-ray player these days except for an area for custom GAMMA correction. Who is using the D2v video settings to optimize pictures? Does anyone calibrate their TV through the D2v? Seem like I paid a lot of money for it but I don't really us it. I would like to know what am I missing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I use the Custom Cropping and Scaling features (see the tutorial post links collected in the first post of this thread for examples). Others are using the Custom Gamma correction you mentioned, although the reality is that such Gamma correction stuff is BEST done using adjustments inside the display, so it is only a boon for folks using displays/projectors that can't be corrected properly even in their Service menus.


The Custom Resolution stuff is less useful today since almost everyone is using a 1080p display. It was vitally important in the past for folks who wanted to get "native" resolution into, say a 768p display.


The rest of the video features primarily deal with converting whatever might be best for each Source to send out to the best video output from the display's point of view. The value there depends on how many quirky source devices you use. Of course if you have such devices, it is a boon.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Hi Steven


I am one of those that uses both LiveVideoSettingEditor and CustomResolutionManager because I have a radical display (CRT projector). I actually pushed for Anthem to get these tools working (they were broken by a firmware update a couple years ago) since the ability to program custom resolution and timings was an important buying decision feature for me.


As Bob pointed out, the video calibration aspect only came into play once I had reached the limit of all adjustments I could make in the display itself. I used the custom gamma curve editor to get a near ruler flat gamma and greyscale, but it has a very awkward interface so it was not a pleasant experience. It made a huge difference though, and glad I made the investments.


Stefan


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22792781
> 
> 
> The Tone Controls ENABLED vs. DISABLED choice is a "temporary" setting. That means it gets reset to Enabled every time your Reload Factory Defaults -- such as when doing a firmware install. "Temporary" settings are not saved in User or Installer Settings, so your Disabled choice doesn't get restored when you Load Saved User Settings AFTER the firmware install.
> 
> Just change it back to Disabled again and you are good to go until your next reset.
> 
> --Bob



I could be imagining it but I too think something changed here. I don't recall ever disabling the tone controls in the past and it used to always say Bypassed by default. However I just checked it for the first time since my last firmware update (3.09c) and it is suddenly Enabled!


----------



## dmusoke


Earlier, i had asked if anyone knew the difference between Analog-Direct and ARC with Room EQ=OFF. As no one responded, i assumed most didn't know so i asked Anthem and he said the following:

 

Analog direct uses no DSP for the incoming signal, # of channels in = number of channels out, only the volume control is in between, no up sampling either ( in the case if a D2 ). *Analog DSP with ARC off means up sampling, surround modes and other EQ is in the signal path, Bass Management takes on settings in the menu*.

 

I then asked what the difference was between the latter(in bold) and ARC=ON and was told:

*This is different because you will not have any of the correction filters (EQ) in effect. Only the cross over and level settings*

 

So, ARC=OFF does all bass management functions, upsampling, engage surround modes BUT not the ARC correction filters.

 

This is huge for me since i can't seem to hear the difference with ARC ON & OFF(!), as the main change in sound from Analog-Direct was mainly due to the level settings, distance settings and xover selection points. Maybe its because the Panel of my MartinLogan Xstats (Spire) has an even frequency response from about 300Hz to 15kHz is the reason i don't hear much between the two  ARC modes.

 

Can anyone else tell the difference between ARC on/off using either Digital or Analog Sources?

 

- David


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39540#post_22792781
> 
> 
> The Tone Controls ENABLED vs. DISABLED choice is a "temporary" setting. That means it gets reset to Enabled every time your Reload Factory Defaults -- such as when doing a firmware install. "Temporary" settings are not saved in User or Installer Settings, so your Disabled choice doesn't get restored when you Load Saved User Settings AFTER the firmware install.
> *Just change it back to Disabled again and you are good to go until your next reset*.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob. How does one change the Tone Controls to disabled (mine says Enabled)? I went through the main menu and couldn't find it. Do you have to be playing something in order to make the change via the remote? Will this make any difference when using just HDMI not analog?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DMUSOKE,

Whether you'll hear a difference depends upon how much correction ARC is doing and the nature of the content you are playing.


Turning ARC OFF for a Source also re-enables various settings in the menus that are bypassed while ARC is ON such as Room Response Filter, Center EQ, THX Ultra 2 Sub, Boundary Gain Compensation, and LFE Bypass.


In addition, the volume trim levels that ARC has Uploaded may no longer be ideal because the cuts and boosts ARC employs in the correction parameters are no longer in effect.


Most folks will hear the loss of ARC first as poorer transitions through the crossover frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22798637
> 
> 
> Hi Bob. How does one change the Tone Controls to disabled (mine says Enabled)? I went through the main menu and couldn't find it. Do you have to be playing something in order to make the change via the remote?



Use the "9" button on the remote.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22798645
> 
> 
> Use the "9" button on the remote.
> 
> --Bob



Ahh ok thank you. Just hit the "9" and now it's saying Bypassed. If just using HDMI changing it to disabled, will this make any difference to the sound while listening to BD's Bitstream?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22796193
> 
> 
> Please try to take a little more time when you post. Your posts are so cryptic it is hard to follow you. For example, what the heck is an Input A?
> 
> What you describe sounds like a problem with the "temporary" volume trim adjustments when playing multi-channel LPCM. If I understand this latest cryptic post, the problem is not happening when playing stereo LPCM
> 
> To test this, find a move with a STEREO Bitstream track and compare Bitstream vs. LPCM.
> 
> Now if this is what is happening there are two possible explanations. The most likely is that you have "temporary" volume trim adjustments set for multi-channel LPCM which you have forgotten about.
> 
> To reset ALL of the temporary volume trims at once, go into Setup > Save and Restore Settings and:
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 
> 2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video, continue via the Front Panel display
> 
> 3) Reload Saved User Settings
> 
> Since "temporary" settings are not saved, this resets all of them. *PLEASE TRY THIS FIRST AND REPORT WHETHER IT FIXES YOUR PROBLEM.*
> 
> The next possible problem is that there is something screwed up in the memory for the temporary settings. This could be due to corrupted Setup settings.
> 
> To test this, Save User Settings (so you can recover more easily). Reload Factory Defaults, and now MANUALLY RE-ENTER just the bare minimum settings need to play from the player and test LPCM vs. Bitstream volume.
> 
> If THIS fixes the problem, then Manually re-enter the REST of your settings -- a chore to be sure, but still the right thing to do -- and you should be good to go.
> 
> --Bob



i will try to be more patient about my text.


i have downloaded 3.09f and install it , whitout any problems.


the same thing


but.....i have found the problem. A stupid thing realy...damn. the volume control on my Oppo player was turned down. I always use bitstream out of the player, and it seems that the volume control is not active when it is bitstream. but active when it is Multichannel PCM. How it is happen , i dont know. i am using a Harmony remote, and maby my daughter have make some øhhh - things. i dont know.

So the problem is solved - thank for you help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The volume control on the OPPO only applies to its ANALOG outputs.


So I guess you were using multi-channel ANALOG all this time instead of HDMI LPCM?


OK. Anyway, glad it is fixed.

--Bob


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22798589
> 
> Earlier, i had asked if anyone knew the difference between Analog-Direct and ARC with Room EQ=OFF. As no one responded, i assumed most didn't know so i asked Anthem and he said the following:
> 
> Analog direct uses no DSP for the incoming signal, # of channels in = number of channels out, only the volume control is in between, no up sampling either ( in the case if a D2 ). *Analog DSP with ARC off means up sampling, surround modes and other EQ is in the signal path, Bass Management takes on settings in the menu*.
> 
> I then asked what the difference was between the latter(in bold) and ARC=ON and was told:
> *This is different because you will not have any of the correction filters (EQ) in effect. Only the cross over and level settings*
> 
> So, ARC=OFF does all bass management functions, upsampling, engage surround modes BUT not the ARC correction filters.
> 
> This is huge for me since i can't seem to hear the difference with ARC ON & OFF(!), as the main change in sound from Analog-Direct was mainly due to the level settings, distance settings and xover selection points. Maybe its because the Panel of my MartinLogan Xstats (Spire) has an even frequency response from about 300Hz to 15kHz is the reason i don't hear much between the two  ARC modes.
> 
> Can anyone else tell the difference between ARC on/off using either Digital or Analog Sources?
> 
> - David



Am using ML Summits. My room exhibits substantial mode problems in the bass area that ARC controls very well. I was using a Velodyne SMS-1 unit previously, but find ARC much better. Switching ARC off brings back those mode problems, so the difference is quite subtantial for me there.


However, unlike cone speakers, the mid and high of electrostatics, due to their unique horizontal and vertical dispersion characteristics, are not much affected by room irregularities , so there is little or no difference there.


Ben


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22798717
> 
> 
> The volume control on the OPPO only applies to its ANALOG outputs.
> 
> So I guess you were using multi-channel ANALOG all this time instead of HDMI LPCM?
> 
> OK. Anyway, glad it is fixed.
> 
> --Bob



no - i only use HDMI. Nothing els. And that was the fix. I set my Oppo bdp 83 to output LPCM. the volume was again way to low. Presset the volume kontrol on the harmony remote on komponent


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ My mistake -- forgot you were using an 83. Again, glad you found the answer.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22798925
> 
> 
> ^ My mistake -- forgot you were using an 83. Again, glad you found the answer.
> 
> --Bob



and thanks for you help.


----------



## Thxtheater

*IR HEX Codes for AVM50v to Access DVD1, DVD2, DVD3, SAT1, SAT2, SAT3, TV1, TV2, TV3, etc.*


Greetings all,


I'm going to shoot this question over to Anthem tech support as well, but by chance does anyone have the HEX codes to directly access the virtual inputs on the 50v/D2v units? The virtual inputs are the DVD1, DVD2, DVD3, etc that you access by pressing that input on the Anthem remote and it scrolls through the virtual inputs on that button.


Today, I was finally getting to the Anthem Hex Codes.xls file that was sent to me from support a few months ago, but it doesn't have all of those inputs listed. For example, in MAIN (R1185) it only has:

0x2F SAT

0x2B Tape

0x2E TV

0x30 VCR

0x1E Radio


I know that my Logitech can access each virtual input directly and I'd rather not have to program the Roomie remote by learning all the commands from the Logitech.


Any guidance is appreciated.


Thanks,

Theo


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ See Appendix A at the back of the Manual. You will find a table of 3-button sequences that can be used to select each of those Sources directly regardless of which Source is currently in use.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22800685
> 
> 
> ^ See Appendix A at the back of the Manual. You will find a table of 3-button sequences that can be used to select each of those Sources directly regardless of which Source is currently in use.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks. You're spot-on as usual!!


That's what Anthem wrote back as well and the three button macro combo does indeed work like a charm to access each of the virtual input sources. I just did a test and it passed with flying colors.


I'm assuming that the macros are identical for the D2v. I'm trying to work with the Roomie folks to update the AVM50v file to take advantage of the additional virtual inputs so that it's there out of the box.


I'm using them, so I want to be able to share the work I'm going to do with others.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22800685
> 
> 
> ^ See Appendix A at the back of the Manual. You will find a table of 3-button sequences that can be used to select each of those Sources directly regardless of which Source is currently in use.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks. You're spot-on as usual!!


That's what Anthem wrote back as well and the three button macro combo does indeed work like a charm to access each of the virtual input sources. I just did a test and it passed with flying colors.


I'm assuming that the macros are identical for the D2v. I'm trying to work with the Roomie folks to update the AVM50v file to take advantage of the additional virtual inputs so that it's there out of the box.


I'm using them, so I want to be able to share the work I'm going to do with others.


----------



## p.las

From what i Can messure, is it true that the 3.09f firmware hav resolved all DTS HS MR audio issue. From what i Can messure there s no level difference in bitstream vs pcm. Not on 5,1 or 7.1 DTS HD MR audio. From what i can remember , there was a 3db difference in 5.1 track , and sometimes more when it was 7.1


----------



## DaveBoswell

Has anyone been able to use a Harmony remote to control Zone 2 or 3? I have a Harmony 900 in my Living room which is Zone 2 with stereo speakers and I'd like to use the Anthem 50v but there is no direct access in the Harmony setup application for Zone 2/3 control (looking mostly for Power ON/Off, Select Input, and Volume control) - I've played around with the "3 button" controls per the manual but not been able to get this working properly on the Harmony.


Also, can I connect the Harmony RF unit directly to the IR inputs on the back of the 50v by stripping the IR emmitter off and attaching to the pos and neg terminals?


Any help in pointing to right di rection would be much appreciated - thanks!


DAve


----------



## rovingtravler

Dave,


All great question and I am interested in the answers as well. When I get in my new house I will be using all three zones and I too use a Harmony 900.


I hope someone has done something like this with their 900.


----------



## Bghead8che

How much is it to upgrade the Anthem D2v (latest version) to 3D?


Anyone know?


Thanks!


-Brian


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22802218
> 
> 
> From what i Can messure, is it true that the 3.09f firmware hav resolved all DTS HS MR audio issue. From what i Can messure there s no level difference in bitstream vs pcm. Not on 5,1 or 7.1 DTS HD MR audio. From what i can remember , there was a 3db difference in 5.1 track , and sometimes more when it was 7.1



It's been fixed for so long I can barely remember, but I think That was fixed in 3.09.


Beta 3.09c is mainly the 50v power on bug.

Beta 3.09f is more esoteric DTS certification issues that Anthem found.


I don't think there is a real need for D2v users to go beyond official 3.09, only us 50v users.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bghead8che*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22803626
> 
> 
> How much is it to upgrade the Anthem D2v (latest version) to 3D?
> 
> 
> Anyone know?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> -Brian


$500 or free if your dealer promised you one once the new board was released.

 

As the price of Anthem units keep increasing as the years go by, count on this upgrade to increase in price as well.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22798641
> 
> 
> DMUSOKE,
> 
> Whether you'll hear a difference depends upon how much correction ARC is doing and the nature of the content you are playing.
> 
> 
> Turning ARC OFF for a Source also re-enables various settings in the menus that are bypassed while ARC is ON such as Room Response Filter, Center EQ, THX Ultra 2 Sub, Boundary Gain Compensation, and LFE Bypass.
> 
> 
> In addition, the volume trim levels that ARC has Uploaded may no longer be ideal because the cuts and boosts ARC employs in the correction parameters are no longer in effect.
> 
> 
> Most folks will hear the loss of ARC first as poorer transitions through the crossover frequencies.
> 
> --Bob


 

Thanks Bob ... I've checked and these off-arc options are either turned off or are made to be identical to those with arc on.

 


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39570#post_22798874
> Am using ML Summits. My room exhibits substantial mode problems in the bass area that ARC controls very well. I was using a Velodyne SMS-1 unit previously, but find ARC much better. Switching ARC off brings back those mode problems, so the difference is quite subtantial for me there.
> 
> 
> However, unlike cone speakers, the mid and high of electrostatics, due to their unique horizontal and vertical dispersion characteristics, are not much affected by room irregularities , so there is little or no difference there.
> 
> 
> Ben


 

I think the reason i don't hear bass anomalies difference is that my speakers are about 3.5ft away from the back wall which also have heavy bass absorbers in the corners so they minimize any modal resonances typical of small listening rooms like mine. At least i know that my unit is not broken but it was nice to know that the differences between arc on/off are the correction filters it uploads to the D2v. All the distance settings and other stuff are still active even though arc is off.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22804024
> 
> 
> It's been fixed for so long I can barely remember, but I think That was fixed in 3.09.
> 
> Beta 3.09c is mainly the 50v power on bug.
> 
> Beta 3.09f is more esoteric DTS certification issues that Anthem found.
> 
> I don't think there is a real need for D2v users to go beyond official 3.09, only us 50v users.



the 3.09 had not solved the 3 db level difference when Anthem decodes vs player decoes . But now it is solved. Thank you Anthem for that. many other have the 3 db difference , with no intentions to solved it.... Rock on Anthem!


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22804199
> 
> 
> I think the reason i don't hear bass anomalies difference is that my speakers are about 3.5ft away from the back wall which also have heavy bass absorbers in the corners so they minimize any modal resonances typical of small listening rooms like mine. At least i know that my unit is not broken but it was nice to know that the differences between arc on/off are the correction filters it uploads to the D2v. All the distance settings and other stuff are still active even though arc is off.



Like Bob said, how much difference you hear between ARC on/off depends on the amount of correction. This in turn depends on how well your room is set up for sound. I have a small fortune invested in diffusers and absorbers in mine, but the problem is I also have wall-to-wall cabinets/shelves for storage of discs/books/etc. which create havoc in the bass area in my 25'x15'x8' room. So, for the time being, I am glad to have ARC to tame the lower frequencies.


Ben


----------



## xtrips

Hello Bob,


Would you mind pointing to the best article that have been written to describe the Advanced Settings Subwoofer features section in ARC and how to use it efficiently?


Thank you


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I don't know of any good write up on those. Folks here have mostly only played with the Flat setting for the Sub (the top line).

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bghead8che*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22803626
> 
> 
> How much is it to upgrade the Anthem D2v (latest version) to 3D?
> 
> Anyone know?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Brian





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22804087
> 
> 
> $500 or free if your dealer promised you one once the new board was released.
> 
> 
> As the price of Anthem units keep increasing as the years go by, count on this upgrade to increase in price as well.



Significantly more if you have an older D2v and I've never heard if they are actually shipping the $1500 upgrade.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38520#post_22436487
> 
> 
> Update to 3D road map - kits are:
> 
> - now available for any AVM 50v and D2v with serial number after 142626. Hardware is free for eligible units purchased from participating US/Canada dealers July 15 2010 and later. If eligible, your dealer would have mentioned it at time of purchase. For those that weren't part of the promotion, US pricing for the hardware is $500. International pricing varies, and is surely higher for reasons explained in an earlier post. Dealers may charge for installation. Please contact your dealer for further info and to order.
> 
> - soon to be available for AVM 50v and D2v with serial number preceding 142626. Estimated US price $1500, international pricing to be determined locally. Official announcement to follow in the coming weeks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600_100#post_22805486
> 
> 
> Significantly more if you have an older D2v and I've never heard if they are actually shipping the $1500 upgrade.


*FREE* is the ONLY OPTION in my book worth anything.


You have to buy a 3D Blu-ray player and the Sony S790

and many other brands have dual HDMI. That is the

solution I chose - the S790 Is a Dream Machine.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22805859
> 
> *FREE* is the ONLY OPTION in my book worth anything.
> 
> You have to buy a 3D Blu-ray player and the Sony S790
> 
> and many other brands have dual HDMI. That is the
> 
> solution I chose - the S790 Is a Dream Machine.



A friend of mine paid $150 which was probably the cost of the dealer doing the install.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600_100#post_22806674
> 
> 
> A friend of mine paid $150 which was probably the cost of the dealer doing the install.



Even though that is a fair price - it is equal to the cost of a new player with DUAL HDMI


----------



## Bob Pariseau

When evaluating the value of the 3D upgrade, keep in mind that it is "pass through" only. There is no video processing nor any graphics overlay such as Volume changes or Video Source Adjust menu.


Thus the result is pretty much identical to using a dual output 3D Source Device with video going direct to the display and audio going to the Anthem.


So essentially the 3D upgrade allows the Anthem to be an HDMI "switch" for 3D video while also retaining its full range of HDMI audio functionality. Note that this is a ONE OUTPUT switch as the 2nd HDMI output on the Anthem does not function while in Through mode (whether or not the input is 3D).


So think why you would need a switch.


You'll need a switch if you have more than one 3D Source Device. You'll also need a switch if it is impracticality to run more than one HDMI feed to your display even for only one 3D Source Device.


But consider that you can solve most such cable run problems more cheaply than the $1500 predicted price for the two board upgrade needed for the oldest units. If your unit is eligible for the Free or the $500 one board upgrade that's a different matter.


Then of course there are also folks who are using a single output 3D Source Device, either because they already have one or because there is no alternative dual output option (e.g., a 3D capable cable or satellite TV set top box).


Each owner will have to decide the value of adding 3D video pass through switching given his own circumstances.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't know what the chances are of adding 4K support to the current 3D upgrade hardware. If it was limited to "pass through" that might be possible. The HDMI Input chips would have to extract the audio which is embedded in the 4K video, just as is done for 3D video now.


I don't believe Anthem has made any statement about the potential to add 4K "pass through" switching to the 3D capable hardware.


However, there is essentially zero chance of adding 4K video processing or upscaling without further, expensive revision of the main video board.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600_100#post_22807089
> 
> 
> Each owner will have to decide the value of adding 3D video pass through switching given his own circumstances.
> 
> --Bob


*Of course I have to AGREE with Bob.*


In my Anthem setup - I have (3) 3D Sources.


Source #1 is the Dual HDMI Sony S790 - 2nd HDMI delivers High-Def Audio to the Anthem.


Source #2 is a PS3 which is used for gaming and streaming. It uses Optical for Audio.


Source #2 is a Panasonic for VuDu Streaming - It uses Optical for Audio.


All three 3D Sources go through a Monoprice 5-1 *[8463]* HDMI Switch to Port #2 of my Epson 5010 3D PJ.


The MAIN output of the Anthem goes to Port #1 of my Epson 5010 PJ for 2D support.


My Monorpice solution solution costs me $28.90. The 8463 was the only one I found

that handled 3D properly even though many others claimed to handle 3D. It might

be because of the built in *EQUALIZER*.


----------



## Kimeran

wow, with 1321 pages of posts I think it is safe to say that the Anthem products are the most popular processors on these forums.


One question, does it have a DAC for the HD audio or is everything done digitally for movies?


The things I have read about converting the signal to analogue for movies is something that I find very interesting.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kimeran*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22807774
> 
> 
> wow, with 1321 pages of posts I think it is safe to say that the Anthem products are the most popular processors on these forums.
> 
> 
> One question, does it have a DAC for the HD audio or is everything done digitally for movies?
> 
> 
> The things I have read about converting the signal to analogue for movies is something that I find very interesting.



Sure. The audio on the movie discs is digital. To get output to your power amps -- on the way to the speakers -- the audio has to be converted to Analog since that's all the amps and speakers understand. That's done by Digital to Analog Converters (DACs) in the Anthem's Analog output stage.


Now, all PROCESSING of the audio is done digitally. For example, Anthem Room Correction (ARC) is digital audio processing. The digital audio coming from movie discs can go straight to ARC. If you use an Analog audio source and apply ARC to it, then the Analog audio input gets re-digitized (in the Anthem), processed via ARC, and then converted BACK to Analog for output to the Amps and speakers (using the DACs in the Anthem).

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I now think of the four HDMI inputs on my old D2 as audio inputs. Once I quit trying to do video on the Anthem life got a lot easier. Even with a complicated (Monoprice switch - Lumagen Radiance - Darbee - Projector) chain I have less issues then when I was using the Anthem video processor. I do miss the Anthem OSD though.


----------



## dmusoke


Does it make sense to get the 3D upgrade now for onwers of 2D TVs because:

 

 

1.  Current and future TVs are and will be 3D optimized so "Resistance is Futile" and we'll all eventually go 3D within 10 years..; like it or not!

 

2.  The upgardeboards will follow the Anthem price model, which increases by over 30% since product introduction? D2v first started out at $6499. Now its $9500!

 

- David


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22808227
> 
> 
> Does it make sense to get the 3D upgrade now for onwers of 2D TVs because:
> 
> 
> 1. Current and future TVs are and will be 3D optimized so "Resistance is Futile" and we'll all eventually go 3D within 10 years..; like it or not!
> 
> 
> 2. The upgardeboards will follow the Anthem price model, which increases by over 30% since product introduction? D2v first started out at $6499. Now its $9500!



or


3. 3D will die a quiet death and will never be heard of again.....


......I mean isn't it already a crippled patient? When was the last *major* 3D studio release. Avatar?


I digress......;-)


----------



## studlygoorite

I pretty much have to get the upgrade and pay Anthem 1,650 bucks for it as I have the old HDMI board, I have five 3D sources and want the HD audio for two of them so swapping cables gets tiresome. I have been told that 4K will not be added to the D2v and it will be another processor.


----------



## obie_fl

Here's a cheaper solution get an Oppo 103 and plug your other 3D source into its HDMI input and connect one of the 103s output to the display and the other to the Anthem.


Even cheaper get a 2x2 or 4x2 3D HDMI switch.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22808345
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 
> 3. 3D will die a quiet death and will never be heard of again.....
> 
> 
> ......I mean isn't it already a crippled patient? When was the last *major* 3D studio release. Avatar?
> 
> 
> I digress......;-)


I don't necessarily disagree with premise #3 but I'm surprised at the number of 3D releases. Avengers, Prometheus, and the Pixar movies are just a few that were very well done.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22808485
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22808345
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 
> 3. 3D will die a quiet death and will never be heard of again.....
> 
> 
> ......I mean isn't it already a crippled patient? When was the last *major* 3D studio release. Avatar?
> 
> 
> I digress......;-)
> 
> 
> 
> I don't necessarily disagree with premise #3 but I'm surprised at the number of 3D releases. Avengers, Prometheus, and the Pixar movies are just a few that were very well done.
Click to expand...

Exactly .... every major movie is released on BD as a 2D and 3D. They can make 3D movies even though they used 2D cameras during the filming, so its not that expensive now to release 3D on bluray.


----------



## Kimeran




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22807849
> 
> 
> Sure. The audio on the movie discs is digital. To get output to your power amps -- on the way to the speakers -- the audio has to be converted to Analog since that's all the amps and speakers understand. That's done by Digital to Analog Converters (DACs) in the Anthem's Analog output stage.
> 
> 
> Now, all PROCESSING of the audio is done digitally. For example, Anthem Room Correction (ARC) is digital audio processing. The digital audio coming from movie discs can go straight to ARC. If you use an Analog audio source and apply ARC to it, then the Analog audio input gets re-digitized (in the Anthem), processed via ARC, and then converted BACK to Analog for output to the Amps and speakers (using the DACs in the Anthem).
> 
> --Bob



Ah, that's what I thought, but then I got confused by the Parasound P7. Seeing as how it doesnt do any decoding but is still capable of being a HT preamp.


When it comes to processors I think there is a fine line between expense and value and the Anthem Products walk that line better than most other companies. I would like to see them offer a audio and video processor that are split up so that the video and audio can be upgraded independently of one another such as with this new 4K thing going around....but then again, Anthem seems to support their products with updates better than most other companies I have seen as well.


Cheers!


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22808060
> 
> 
> I now think of the four HDMI inputs on my old D2 as audio inputs. Once I quit trying to do video on the Anthem life got a lot easier. Even with a complicated (Monoprice switch - Lumagen Radiance - Darbee - Projector) chain I have less issues then when I was using the Anthem video processor. I do miss the Anthem OSD though.



Mine is a similar case. I got the "3D upgrade" for 2 reasons:


1) PASS THROUGH to external video processor

2) RESALE VALUE


Notice 3D is not even on my list


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22807156
> 
> 
> I don't know what the chances are of adding 4K support to the current 3D upgrade hardware. If it was limited to "pass through" that might be possible. The HDMI Input chips would have to extract the audio which is embedded in the 4K video, just as is done for 3D video now.
> 
> 
> I don't believe Anthem has made any statement about the potential to add 4K "pass through" switching to the 3D capable hardware.



Interesting... Bryston is claiming their current pre/pro is 4K compatible since it is an AUDIO ONLY product. The video portion is supposedly irrelevant and passed through like a basic HDMI switch.


I don't think they have actually tested it yet, but if it fails that would imply that all the basic HDMI switches on the market will also fail.


----------



## Kimeran

could they be speaking of the SP2, not the SP3 with that claim?


----------



## Thxtheater

Question about subwoofer post ARC in Music mode.


Greetings all,


I have a silly question about the best practice of switching the crossover of my sub post ARC. Right now, when I'm in pure stereo mode, I have my speakers run full-range (they go down to 23hz) and I have no sub engaged. My MOVIE and MUSIC configurations have completely different settings.


If, however, I want to have the sub turned on for some reason when playing stereo channel content is the best practice to do that via the GUI setup menu in the anthem or do it on the PC via the ARC software and then re-upload? There are some times where I'm playing stereo/2-channel content that isn't purely music and I don't want to engage movie mode. I simply want my sub to kick in at around 30hz.


From what I recall, the ARC software isn't the crossover frequency (and I can never remember what it is).


Thanks for best practice advice.


Theo


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22808503
> 
> 
> Exactly .... every major movie is released on BD as a 2D and 3D. They can make 3D movies even though they used 2D cameras during the filming, so its not that expensive now to release 3D on bluray.



Yes but isn't that rather like taking a mono audio release and pushing it through all the speakers and calling it 7.1?


Both are rather pointless and ultimately quite unsatisfying.....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39630#post_22811555
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22807156
> 
> 
> I don't know what the chances are of adding 4K support to the current 3D upgrade hardware. If it was limited to "pass through" that might be possible. The HDMI Input chips would have to extract the audio which is embedded in the 4K video, just as is done for 3D video now.
> 
> 
> I don't believe Anthem has made any statement about the potential to add 4K "pass through" switching to the 3D capable hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting... Bryston is claiming their current pre/pro is 4K compatible since it is an AUDIO ONLY product. The video portion is supposedly irrelevant and passed through like a basic HDMI switch.
> 
> 
> I don't think they have actually tested it yet, but if it fails that would imply that all the basic HDMI switches on the market will also fail.
Click to expand...


HDMI Audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the "blanking intervals" of HDMI video. So there is ALWAYS a video signal if you have HDMI audio (even if just a still frame of black), and any HDMI audio processor has to process the HDMI video input enough to extract the audio portion from the video. In addition, most devices are not simple mechanical switches for HDMI. They rebuffer and regenerate the signal for output -- which is why you can start over again on cable length restrictions for example.


Now, I've not looked into it, but it is possible the current generation of HDMI input and output chips do all that's needed to extract the audio and "pass through" the HDMI input to the output. Whether there are additional board design issues to support 4K pass through bandwidth I also don't know.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39630#post_22811671
> 
> Question about subwoofer post ARC in Music mode.
> 
> 
> Greetings all,
> 
> 
> I have a silly question about the best practice of switching the crossover of my sub post ARC. Right now, when I'm in pure stereo mode, I have my speakers run full-range (they go down to 23hz) and I have no sub engaged. My MOVIE and MUSIC configurations have completely different settings.
> 
> 
> If, however, I want to have the sub turned on for some reason when playing stereo channel content is the best practice to do that via the GUI setup menu in the anthem or do it on the PC via the ARC software and then re-upload? There are some times where I'm playing stereo/2-channel content that isn't purely music and I don't want to engage movie mode. I simply want my sub to kick in at around 30hz.
> 
> 
> From what I recall, the ARC software isn't the crossover frequency (and I can never remember what it is).
> 
> 
> Thanks for best practice advice.
> 
> 
> Theo



If you are using Analog input for your stereo music you can do it by building your Music configuration with the Sub included and switching the Setup > Source Setup definition between ANALOG-DIRECT (no ARC and thus no Crossover) and ANALOG-DSP (ARC and thus Crossover enabled).


You can also build your Music configuration with a very low Cutoff/Crossover value in ARC's Targets for LF/RF. So for example if you set them to a 30Hz Cutoff/Crossover then the sub would start kicking in at that point but it wouldn't be fully carrying the load until below 20Hz.


The Room Correction parameters that ARC Uploads are calculated assuming the Cutoff/Crossover values are still the same as when ARC did the calculation. So if you are going to use ARC for a Source (Room EQ = ON and also ANALOG-DSP if an Analog audio input Source), then you should NOT futz with the Crossover values ARC has Uploaded into the Setup menu.


Keep in mind that the Crossover is implemented over about an octave (factor of 2 in frequency). So if your LF/RF speakers are *REALLY* good down to 23Hz -- at Volume -- pretty unusual unless you have powered woofers in them -- then the Rule of Thumb for the Crossover would be to set it no lower than 46Hz. That allows an additional octave below that of continued good output from LF/RF as the Sub is starting to receive steered bass down there.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

I have powered woofers in my mains and I still cross them at 60hz. Just because a speaker can dip into the 20's doesn't mean you shouldn't cross them over. Just about any subwoofer is going to be more capable in the 60 - 20 range. The trick is getting your subwoofer properly dialed in with your mains. And as Bob says the crossover isn't a brick wall you still get signal to the mains below the crossover point.


----------



## AllThumbs

Hello:


Haven't been to the forum in some time (life's events, work, and some hardships have intervened) but was hoping to get some help.


I'm still running a D2 (1st iteration) and have encountered a problem that has me left wondering where to start.


For no clear reason, when I use my system (for instance playing a BluRay Disc) the video is fine, but I can only hear a part of the audio track (mostly background sounds/music and effects) while the main audio tracks (people speaking etc) is either muted or only faintly heard. I haven't changed any settings (that I'm aware of!) and this occurs with not only the BluRay HDMI feed, but similarly with other HDMI inputs (cable, DVD).


Any ideas whats going on? Any advice?


Thanks for any wisdom you can send my way.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AllThumbs*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39630#post_22813191
> 
> 
> Hello:
> 
> 
> Haven't been to the forum in some time (life's events, work, and some hardships have intervened) but was hoping to get some help.
> 
> 
> I'm still running a D2 (1st iteration) and have encountered a problem that has me left wondering where to start.
> 
> 
> For no clear reason, when I use my system (for instance playing a BluRay Disc) the video is fine, but I can only hear a part of the audio track (mostly background sounds/music and effects) while the main audio tracks (people speaking etc) is either muted or only faintly heard. I haven't changed any settings (that I'm aware of!) and this occurs with not only the BluRay HDMI feed, but similarly with other HDMI inputs (cable, DVD).
> 
> 
> Any ideas whats going on? Any advice?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any wisdom you can send my way.



Sounds like you have lost your Center channel -- which is where the dialog usually resides.


Use the internal test tones (Setup > Level Calibration) to insure the cabling, power-amp channel, and speaker are actually functioning.


If not, one place to look is if you have a Trigger wire taking the Center channel amp out of stand-by. It may have come loose. While you are at it, check the normal wiring for the Center channel path from the D2 to the power-amp and from the power amp to the speaker.


It is conceivable, but not likely, that you have a firmware or hardware problem in the D2, but check the basics first.


As always with cases of odd speaker volume another good step is to make sure you haven't accidentally set a "temporary" speaker volume trim with the buttons on the remote.


To reset ALL the temporary settings at once, go into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video, continue via the Front Panel display

3) Reload Saved User Settings


Since the temporary settings are not saved, this resets them.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39630#post_22812590
> 
> 
> If you are using Analog input for your stereo music you can do it by building your Music configuration with the Sub included and switching the Setup > Source Setup definition between ANALOG-DIRECT (no ARC and thus no Crossover) and ANALOG-DSP (ARC and thus Crossover enabled).
> 
> 
> You can also build your Music configuration with a very low Cutoff/Crossover value in ARC's Targets for LF/RF. So for example if you set them to a 30Hz Cutoff/Crossover then the sub would start kicking in at that point but it wouldn't be fully carrying the load until below 20Hz.
> 
> 
> The Room Correction parameters that ARC Uploads are calculated assuming the Cutoff/Crossover values are still the same as when ARC did the calculation. So if you are going to use ARC for a Source (Room EQ = ON and also ANALOG-DSP if an Analog audio input Source), then you should NOT futz with the Crossover values ARC has Uploaded into the Setup menu.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the Crossover is implemented over about an octave (factor of 2 in frequency). So if your LF/RF speakers are *REALLY* good down to 23Hz -- at Volume -- pretty unusual unless you have powered woofers in them -- then the Rule of Thumb for the Crossover would be to set it no lower than 46Hz. That allows an additional octave below that of continued good output from LF/RF as the Sub is starting to receive steered bass down there.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks and perfect. That response jarred my memory about handing things in ARC as opposed to doing it via the GUI.


There's nothing like my Revel Ultima2 Salons running full range. It's something absolutely stunning to behold.


However, if I'm watching something in 2-channel and it's a stereo source, I want to have the sub enabled to hit some of the presence in the 20s and lower--and I still want ARC enabled to handle the bass correction. 99.98% of my music is all digital, so I'm using the 50v DAC so I'm rarely ever running analog directly into the 50v.


Thanks guys, that was very helpful.


Theo


----------



## bballer

I have a HP dv7 6c20us laptop with windows7. Whenever I try to use ARCt the software tells me that it failed to initalize wave capture audio device.. When I check the device it states that it is working properly. What could be the cause?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bballer*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39630#post_22814548
> 
> 
> I have a HP dv7 6c20us laptop with windows7. Whenever I try to use ARCt the software tells me that it failed to initalize wave capture audio device.. When I check the device it states that it is working properly. What could be the cause?



It might be silly to ask but,

Have you turned OFF all and any antivirus or firewall software, including any Microsoft supplied software before trying to install the ARC software ?

Also unplug any USB devices connected to that laptop

Remove ARC from the programs already installed and re-install


----------



## shah993

There is a tutorial which tells you how to do it.I had a similar problem and Bob told me how to.Emai Anthem support and they should send you the guide.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39630#post_22812203
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22808503
> 
> 
> Exactly .... every major movie is released on BD as a 2D and 3D. They can make 3D movies even though they used 2D cameras during the filming, so its not that expensive now to release 3D on bluray.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes but isn't that rather like taking a mono audio release and pushing it through all the speakers and calling it 7.1?
> 
> 
> Both are rather pointless and ultimately quite unsatisfying.....
Click to expand...

You would think so but the answer is a definate NO! I was listening to a movie director (James Cameron) where he said he was very impressed with the 2D -> 3D conversions he had seen and wondered if its really necessary to work with the bulky, expensive and finicky 3D movie cameras. Somehow, they have managed to extract credible 3D information from 2D sources, the mechanics of which i'm not yet familiar with.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600#post_22807156
> 
> 
> I don't know what the chances are of adding 4K support to the current 3D upgrade hardware. If it was limited to "pass through" that might be possible. The HDMI Input chips would have to extract the audio which is embedded in the 4K video, just as is done for 3D video now.
> 
> 
> I don't believe Anthem has made any statement about the potential to add 4K "pass through" switching to the 3D capable hardware.
> 
> 
> However, there is essentially zero chance of adding 4K video processing or upscaling without further, expensive revision of the main video board.
> 
> --Bob


If the upgrade board is fully HDMI 1.4 compliant, as it seems to be to pass through 3D video sources, then it also has te ability to support 4K video as that is also part of the HDMI 1.4 spec: http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_1_4/4K.aspx . They may have not been able to test it for lack of credible 4K sources or test equipment, but it is part of the 1.4 spec.

 

I also heard that the current BD disk is the last physical disk Hollywood will support. That future content distributions 4K and above will be via downloads as they've been doing for cinema's for quite some time now. No longer are standard movie reels physically distributed to movie houses. They have media servers that download the movie at hand in the theater which distributes it to the various theater rooms for playback at precisely the right time.

 

TV commercials are distributed in the same manner as well. They are produced and uploaded to the major TV networks who then distribute it electronically to their various markets nationwide. No more video cassettes of any type used in the distribution process







. Ever wondered how political compaigns can turn around a new commercial and target it for specific markets around the state or country within a few hours? Physical tapes used? Nope!


----------



## bballer

It's not while trying to install, I'm trying to measure. I have no problem connecting to the D2, it just won't initialize the microphone.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bballer*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39630#post_22816172
> 
> 
> It's not while trying to install, I'm trying to measure. I have no problem connecting to the D2, it just won't initialize the microphone.



Check

After you run setup you should have the two files in the Program Files/Anthem/Anthem Room Correction folder

The numbers on the .cal and .file should be your unit serial number and the microphone serial number.


Otherwise it usually is a USB device problem in recording devices


----------



## shah993

Yes thats what I am talking about.It is not the software as such.It has to do with Win 7.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bballer*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39630#post_22814548
> 
> 
> I have a HP dv7 6c20us laptop with windows7. Whenever I try to use ARCt the software tells me that it failed to initalize wave capture audio device.. When I check the device it states that it is working properly. What could be the cause?



The ARC application uses a Windows sound capture software element to access the mic. This is installed as part of a default Windows 7 install, but if you did a Custom install you might have excluded the Media portions of Windows. If that's what's going on, you can tell Windows to add that Media stuff back in to your existing Windows 7 install.


Another possibility is that you mistakenly ran the ARC application as downloaded -- i.e., without Installing it first. You need to install the ARC application (with the Setup.exe installer program that's part of what you get), and then run the installed version.


A third possibility, if your ARC install CD is quite old, is that you have a version of ARC prior to when it was made Windows 7 compatible. The fix for that is to download the ARC V3.0.2 install kit from the Anthem web site. Unzip that and you will have a folder. Dive into that folder and find the Setup.exe program (the installer). Don't run that yet.


Now insert your original ARC install CD. If the installer on the CD starts up automatically just Quit out of it. Dive into the CD and find the Setup.exe program on it. In that same place will be two files with names made up of numbers (your Anthem processor's serial number and your ARC mic's serial number). These are your ARC license and individual ARC mic calibration data file. Copy those two files from the CD to the same place as the Setup.exe installer in the downloaded version. You can now eject the CD, you are done with it.


Then run the Setup.exe program in the downloaded version. It will install ARC V3.0.2 and copy the two files where they need to go as well. You will end up with an ARC shortcut on your desktop which you can use to run the installed version of ARC.


As always with Windows, it is a good idea to reboot Windows after installing or uninstalling something before you do anything else. And before doing a re-install, it would probably be a good idea to go to Control Panel > Add Remove Programs and uninstall the old, non-working copy of the ARC application (then reboot).


If you give Anthem tech support a call, they can walk you through figuring out what's up. It's not complicated, but it goes easier if you have someone on the phone with you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39630#post_22815819
> 
> 
> There is a tutorial which tells you how to do it.I had a similar problem and Bob told me how to.Emai Anthem support and they should send you the guide.



Here's the Anthem document (PDF file) on how to verify your Windows 7 setup is configured properly to use the ARC mic. Primarily this deals with cases where some OTHER mic or audio hardware stuff is getting in the way.

Win 7 ARC Setup.pdf 486k .pdf file


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39630#post_22816157
> 
> 
> If the upgrade board is fully HDMI 1.4 compliant, as it seems to be to pass through 3D video sources, then it also has te ability to support 4K video as that is also part of the HDMI 1.4 spec: http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_1_4/4K.aspx . They may have not been able to test it for lack of credible 4K sources or test equipment, but it is part of the 1.4 spec.
> 
> 
> . . . .



NOTHING is that simple when it comes to HDMI. There are many optional elements to the HDMI spec. For example there are plenty of HDMI V1.4 devices that don't handle 4K. Just because the chip might be able to do it, doesn't mean the device does.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bballer*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39630#post_22816172
> 
> 
> It's not while trying to install, I'm trying to measure. I have no problem connecting to the D2, it just won't initialize the microphone.



Since you are using an original D2, I think the odds are excellent that the ARC application on your original ARC install CD is simply not new enough to be Windows 7 compatible.


See my notes in the prior post for how to install ARC V3.0.2 downloaded from the Anthem site:

http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-statement/processor/d2v/download-support/software 


(That link points to the D2v software download page, but the ARC kit is identical for all the ARC-capable processors.)


I would recommend you go into Control Panel and Uninstall the non-working version of ARC first (then reboot).

--Bob


----------



## Zambonikane

Hey everyone - it's been a looong time. I have a couple of questions regarding setting up a pc with my avm 50. A little background first.

My system consists of the following pieces (pertinent to the issue at hand).

Avm 50 (original, not v) hooked to a Sony sxrd rear projection television via an hdmi cable. I bought a new desktop and moved the old one down to the media room. I had to install a video card due to the mobo only having VGA out. The new graphics card (evga GeForce 210 with 1 gig of ram). The computer is set to the tvs native resolution 1920x1080p 60hz. Now the problem


When I have the prepro turned on and to the correct input (hdmi 2) and then turn the computer on, everything seems to work fine. Once I change inputs, the. Go back to the comp input, I get the blue screen-no input. I then have to restart the computer in order to get the computer back up again. Any ideas as to what to change or how to make this work?

Thanks in advance!

Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zambonikane*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39630#post_22817401
> 
> 
> Hey everyone - it's been a looong time. I have a couple of questions regarding setting up a pc with my avm 50. A little background first.
> 
> My system consists of the following pieces (pertinent to the issue at hand).
> 
> Avm 50 (original, not v) hooked to a Sony sxrd rear projection television via an hdmi cable. I bought a new desktop and moved the old one down to the media room. I had to install a video card due to the mobo only having VGA out. The new graphics card (evga GeForce 210 with 1 gig of ram). The computer is set to the tvs native resolution 1920x1080p 60hz. Now the problem
> 
> 
> When I have the prepro turned on and to the correct input (hdmi 2) and then turn the computer on, everything seems to work fine. Once I change inputs, the. Go back to the comp input, I get the blue screen-no input. I then have to restart the computer in order to get the computer back up again. Any ideas as to what to change or how to make this work?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Mike



A number of folks have had issues with computer graphics cards going through a variety of different formats (e.g., output resolutions) before setting on the one you are actually expecting to get -- and thus getting the HDMI handshake bollixed up.


A typical workaround has been to put a gizmo like the Geffen HDMI Detective in the path from the computer to the Anthem. The Geffen can be used to capture the allowed HDMI input choices from the Anthem and present those to the computer no matter what gyrations the computer goes through -- and without the Anthem seeing the sausage being made. The Geffen also presents an unchanging face to the computer so the computer doesn't know the Anthem has been switched to a different input.


I've not actually tried this myself, but that's the most common way people here report dealing with such problems. It may also be possible to configure the graphics card in your PC to be restricted to a specific output format so it does not have such problems.


In addition, and AS ALWAYS when HDMI problems are happening, you should consider upgrading your HDMI cables. Since you are using 1080p they should be "high speed" cables. Use 6 foot cables rather than shorter cables.

--Bob


----------



## boyce89976

Visited the Anthem/Paradigm suites today at CES. Unfortunately, no one from tech support was there, but Keith was very helpful even though he wasn't sure why the clipping meter is showing up in the Analog-DIR mode in the trim level setup menu. He gave me the name of an engineer at Anthem to talk to, so I'll be reaching out to him next week.


On a side note, no plans currently for a 4K upgrade to the AVM 50v or D2v... likely will be a new processor release when/if they embrace that capability. The 30th Anniversary speaker line is something special though! Studio V5 cabinets, Studio drive motors (magnets and voice coils), but Signature cones and diaphrams... including the Sig v3 Beryllium tweeter! New crossovers as well. They currently have two models... one based on the Studio 100 and one on the Studio 20, retailing at $6k and $1.5k per pair, respectively.


----------



## AllThumbs

Thanks Bob - you are the best.


Test tone indeed demonstrated that center was out.


PITA to identify source of issue, but finally found that an external NHT crossover my AV installer insisted I have appeared to be dead, and once bypassed, all was good again.


Have a Happy New Year.


----------



## obie_fl

I gotta ask why is there an external crossover on the center channel? Is it an electronic crossover like the NHT X1 or X2? Do the mains (L & R) also have an external crossover? It almost sounds like he was trying to do bass management or something. You may want to run ARC again now that the crossover is out of the loop.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AllThumbs*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39630#post_22819295
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob - you are the best.
> 
> 
> Test tone indeed demonstrated that center was out.
> 
> 
> PITA to identify source of issue, but finally found that an external NHT crossover my AV installer insisted I have appeared to be dead, and once bypassed, all was good again.
> 
> 
> Have a Happy New Year.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39630#post_22819480
> 
> 
> I gotta ask why is there an external crossover on the center channel? Is it an electronic crossover like the NHT X1 or X2? Do the mains (L & R) also have an external crossover? It almost sounds like he was trying to do bass management or something. You may want to run ARC again now that the crossover is out of the loop.



Agreed. An external crossover on a Center speaker is unusual. A Crossover should be diverting some of the audio to some other speaker, so what else was connected to that besides Center?


Or is it that he wanted to bypass the internal Crossover inside the Center speaker, and thus fed output from the external Crossover to two separate sets of input jacks (bass and treble) on the single Center?


In any event, with the external Crossover out of the picture, it probably would be wise to schedule some time to do a new ARC Measurement pass so ARC can hear what your Center speaker is now producing for output. The changes are not likely to be huge (no change in the room response of course), so there's no rush to do this, but it still should be done at some point.

--Bob


----------



## Shayne2

Hi


Just wondering if a new win 8 arc 3.1 software beta is out there that fixes the low volume issue with arc software and windows 8.


Regards


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ No word here. Not even that there is a confirmed problem.

--Bob


----------



## wierzbowski

I have searched this thread, and read a lot of posts, but didn't see any discussion of my specific issue. If I overlooked it, my apologies.


I just updated my 50v to firmware version 3.09 (public release, not a beta/test version). Afterwards, DTS-HD MA and DTS-HD HR bitstreams no longer produce any audio output. I tried multiple discs in multiple players (Oppo BDP-80 and Toshiba HD-A35). The processor is detecting the correct bitstream format and displays it on front panel and the OSD. Lossy DTS works fine, as does Dolby TrueHD, DD+, and DD. Having the player decode the HD bitstream and send LPCM works fine also.


I have checked and double-checked my settings (which were successfully reloaded after the firmware upgrade), and I don't see anything amiss.


Has anyone else experienced this issue? I'm open to suggestions.


Thanks!


W


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wierzbowski*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22822393
> 
> 
> I have searched this thread, and read a lot of posts, but didn't see any discussion of my specific issue. If I overlooked it, my apologies.
> 
> 
> I just updated my 50v to firmware version 3.09 (public release, not a beta/test version). Afterwards, DTS-HD MA and DTS-HD HR bitstreams no longer produce any audio output. I tried multiple discs in multiple players (Oppo BDP-80 and Toshiba HD-A35). The processor is detecting the correct bitstream format and displays it on front panel and the OSD. Lossy DTS works fine, as does Dolby TrueHD, DD+, and DD. Having the player decode the HD bitstream and send LPCM works fine also.
> 
> 
> I have checked and double-checked my settings (which were successfully reloaded after the firmware upgrade), and I don't see anything amiss.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this issue? I'm open to suggestions.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> W



Update to 3.09f. It's been super stable for me and includes DTS updates.


----------



## wierzbowski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22822420
> 
> 
> Update to 3.09f. It's been super stable for me and includes DTS updates.



Okay, I just sent email to Anthem tech support to request access to the beta firmware downloads.










W


----------



## nrwatson

I would like my system to be set up so that the Audio processing is performed in my av processor rather than the Kaleidescape player


However when I try this then I have problems with the hdmi output


Initially it works but but if I pause the movie the sound track no longer works and I get a screech through the speakers


If I turn off the av processor and turn it back on it works again or if I turn the projector on and off the sound will come back on again


This doesn't happen with any other source other than the kaleidescape player the work round has been to get the kaleidescape to do the audio processing and not use the bypass then all works well.

Kaleidescape have suggested this is a problem with the Anthem

I am running 3.09f latest software any help would be appreciated as it seems nuts not to use the D2V to do the processing


Thanks


----------



## paradigm25

I entered wrong distance for the sub before my last run of ARC. Do I need to run ARC again if I change the sub distance in Listener Position?

Thanks.


----------



## paradigm25

I am trying to sell my Oppo 95. I had read earlier some web sites mentioned on this forum to sell used AV equipment. Can someone please advise.

Thanks.


----------



## AV_mike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22822804
> 
> 
> I entered wrong distance for the sub before my last run of ARC. Do I need to run ARC again if I change the sub distance in Listener Position?
> 
> Thanks.



Short answer, no. ARC is 'distance blind'. You can set it before or after, makes no difference. Sometimes tweaking the sub distance can improve the sub/satellite splice through the crossover region - in which case making adjustments after ARC is better - takes into account the effects that ARC may have on the crossovers.


Regards, Mike.


----------



## agrsiv95

There is a classified section. May want to drop a note in the player thread.


Jeremy


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22822893
> 
> 
> There is a classified section. May want to drop a note in the player thread.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Where is the classified Section?

Thanks.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22822999
> 
> 
> Where is the classified Section?
> 
> Thanks.



from the dropdown at the top of the page - forums / classifieds


----------



## Kris Deering

Use the classifieds here. You can also post it up for sale on Audiogon and Videogon.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22822553
> 
> 
> I would like my system to be set up so that the Audio processing is performed in my av processor rather than the Kaleidescape player
> 
> 
> However when I try this then I have problems with the hdmi output
> 
> 
> Initially it works but but if I pause the movie the sound track no longer works and I get a screech through the speakers
> 
> 
> If I turn off the av processor and turn it back on it works again or if I turn the projector on and off the sound will come back on again
> 
> 
> This doesn't happen with any other source other than the kaleidescape player the work round has been to get the kaleidescape to do the audio processing and not use the bypass then all works well.
> 
> Kaleidescape have suggested this is a problem with the Anthem
> 
> I am running 3.09f latest software any help would be appreciated as it seems nuts not to use the D2V to do the processing
> 
> 
> Thanks



Give Anthem Tech Support a call to see if they have any history with this device. If the processing you are talking about is decoding Bitstream audio to LPCM, you might as well let the Source Device do it. Was there some reason and particular you wanted to avoid the processing in the device?

--Bob


----------



## dvcdude

Is anyone using an SVS AS-EQ1 with ARC. I have a 50v and have upgraded to 2 subs that are not matched. My system sounds good, but I read quite a bit about using an AS-EQ1 in the past to EQ subs prior to performing room corrections. Just trying to see if anyone is still doing this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22824808
> 
> 
> Is anyone using an SVS AS-EQ1 with ARC. I have a 50v and have upgraded to 2 subs that are not matched. My system sounds good, but I read quite a bit about using an AS-EQ1 in the past to EQ subs prior to performing room corrections. Just trying to see if anyone is still doing this.



Sure. The only trick is to be sure you do the SVS setup FIRST, and then run your ARC Measurement pass.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22824808
> 
> 
> Is anyone using an SVS AS-EQ1 with ARC. I have a 50v and have upgraded to 2 subs that are not matched. My system sounds good, but I read quite a bit about using an AS-EQ1 in the past to EQ subs prior to performing room corrections. Just trying to see if anyone is still doing this.



I am looking for one myself, but it is hard to find. Do you have one?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22824950
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22824808
> 
> 
> Is anyone using an SVS AS-EQ1 with ARC. I have a 50v and have upgraded to 2 subs that are not matched. My system sounds good, but I read quite a bit about using an AS-EQ1 in the past to EQ subs prior to performing room corrections. Just trying to see if anyone is still doing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure. The only trick is to be sure you do the SVS setup FIRST, and then run your ARC Measurement pass.
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...

 

I agree with Bob on this one. I also have the AS-EQ1 for my dual subs and its done wonders time-aligning my subs in my small and difficult room. Look at the QM results on the left below and ARC measurements on the right when its in the loop. When the EQ1 isn't active, the combined frequency response is just awful, with deep notches between 20 - 100Hz. Moving my subs within the limited confines of my living room didn't help much at all.

 

So, after making the subs 180 degrees out of phase with each other, i then got correctable FR from 20 - 120Hz and the results are shown below:

 

   

 

AS-EQ1 Calibration Certicate below (after subs are phased 180 degrees out of each other):


----------



## dvcdude

Thank you both for the information. I will let you know how this works out for me.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22825103
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22824808
> 
> 
> Is anyone using an SVS AS-EQ1 with ARC. I have a 50v and have upgraded to 2 subs that are not matched. My system sounds good, but I read quite a bit about using an AS-EQ1 in the past to EQ subs prior to performing room corrections. Just trying to see if anyone is still doing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking for one myself, but it is hard to find. Do you have one?
Click to expand...

 

I know...good luck finding one. They are extremely hard to find as all their owners see their value ... Try calling SVS if they have any B-stock or any refurbished units.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22825367
> 
> 
> I know...good luck finding one. They are extremely hard to find as all their owners see their value ... Try calling SVS if they have any B-stock or any refurbished units.



I did and this is the response I got:


"We no longer sell the AS-EQ1 due to the fact that its technology can now be found in many mid- and high-end AVRs that license the Audyssey technology – specifically MultEQ XT/32 and Sub EQ HT.

http://www.audyssey.com/products?field_multeq_flavor_value%5B%5D=MultEQ+XT32&tid%5B%5D=100&pid=All&ptype=5&=Search+Products 


AS-EQ1s can occasionally be found on the previously-owned market as folks upgrade their AVRs to the aforementioned Audyssey technologies, which renders the need for the AS-EQ1 moot. AVS, Audiogon and eBay are typical places where folks list their AS-EQ1s for sale. Average price has been around $500.


The other option of course, if you are on the cusp of an upgrade, is to look at AVRs that have XT/32 and Sub EQ HT."


And I have big issues with my lows. Any other ideas?


Thanks.


----------



## dmusoke


^^^^ In the mean-time, you can try the following methods:

 

1.  Basically, first use Arc's Quick Measure(QM) to move the sub around the listening room to get the widest and smoothest frequency response.

 

2.  Use the sub crawl technique, where you place the sub in your listening position and crawl around the room until you hear the deepest response. I would modify this technique a bit by using QM and placing the ARC microphone about a foot off the floor but facing up and moving it around the room until you get the widest and deepest response graph.

 

3.  If you have 2 subs, either above method works(I prefer #2). Make sure both subs have their phase knobs set to 0 degrees before you start this test and that each sub is levelled at 73dB via its volume/gain control for a combined 75 - 76dB level.

 

It would be nice if you can get both subs optimal but in most cases, one sub will be optimal and the second sub not so much. But thats ok, for you can now play both subs at the same time and adjust the phase knob button of the second sub until you get the widest and deepest frequency response for both subs using QM. Leave the first sub phase knob at zero and print the combined response.

 

Then set the phase knob of the 2nd sub to zero and adjust the phase knob of the first sub until, again, you get the best combined frequency on the high and low end. Print the combined response and compare the two printed frequency responses and determine which subwoofer setup to use. Then perform ARC and post the graphs here for feedback







.

 

 

Tweaky final stage is to phase match the subs to the mains BUT this is to extract the final 5% - 10% of the performance as described in my sig below. First concentrate on the 90% - 95% part.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22824950
> 
> 
> Sure. The only trick is to be sure you do the SVS setup FIRST, and then run your ARC Measurement pass.
> 
> --Bob



I remember getting my D2v and I actually owned a AS-EQ1 as did my brother and I remember asking here for advice as to if I still required it or should keep the unit, the answer here was to sell it as ARC would be all I need. I'm now regretting selling mine now as I believe it would have helped smooth out the bass response in my room. As mentioned they are very hard to find now. I'm happy with my system but now wonder if the SVS unit would have improved the bass even more.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The correct advice should have been to try it with ARC alone FIRST and see if ARC produced a satisfactory solution in your setup. If not, then go ahead and try additional steps -- such as room treatments or bass-only EQ systems to give ARC a better starting point to work from.


Paradigm's own PBK stuff -- basically the subwoofer-only subset of ARC -- is another approach, particularly for folks working with more than one Sub in a room. But of course if you are in the market to replace your Subs there are lots of different approaches.

--Bob


----------



## nrwatson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22824337
> 
> 
> Give Anthem Tech Support a call to see if they have any history with this device. If the processing you are talking about is decoding Bitstream audio to LPCM, you might as well let the Source Device do it. Was there some reason and particular you wanted to avoid the processing in the device?
> 
> --Bob



Sorry if I am being thick but thought that using the D2V would allow me to go 7.1 the player output after decoding is only 5.1 and won't the D2V be the better processor

Thanks again for reply Neale


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22826394
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22824337
> 
> 
> Give Anthem Tech Support a call to see if they have any history with this device. If the processing you are talking about is decoding Bitstream audio to LPCM, you might as well let the Source Device do it. Was there some reason and particular you wanted to avoid the processing in the device?
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if I am being thick but thought that using the D2V would allow me to go 7.1 the player output after decoding is only 5.1 and won't the D2V be the better processor
> 
> Thanks again for reply Neale
Click to expand...


It's unusual for a decoding Source to send Bitstreams with more channels than it can decode.


Decoding a 7.1 Bitstream results in 7.1 HDMI LPCM digital audio, and the D2v can accept 7.1 HDMI LPCM as input. The only 5.1 limit on the D2v is if you want to use its multi-channel Analog inputs.

--Bob


----------



## nrwatson

Bob

The output after decoding by the kaleidescape is 5.1 thought if it just sent audio stream direct then the anthem can decode it as 7.1 or am I being too simplistic

Thanks Neale


----------



## dmusoke


Is it possible to turn on my TV using the D2v? I'd like to have an event such that when i turn on my D2v, it triggers the TV to turn on. Is that possible and if so how?

 

Thanks,

David


----------



## obie_fl

HDMI-CEC supposedly provides that sort of functionality but most implementations seem to be proprietary or a hit or miss affair. I don't believe the Anthem supports it any way. Whats wrong with a simple remote macro?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22828116
> 
> 
> HDMI-CEC supposedly provides that sort of functionality but most implementations seem to be proprietary or a hit or miss affair. I don't believe the Anthem supports it any way. Whats wrong with a simple remote macro?


Tom ... i lack basic programming skills







!  Can the TV be used to turn on the D2v?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22826575
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> The output after decoding by the kaleidescape is 5.1 thought if it just sent audio stream direct then the anthem can decode it as 7.1 or am I being too simplistic
> 
> Thanks Neale



If the audio tracks being played by that device are 5.1, then they'll decode as 5.1 in the Anthem as well.


HOWEVER, if you select an audio surround processing Mode in the Anthem, such as PLIIx, you can raise 5.1 channels of input to 7.1 speakers of output. This is true whether or not the Source is doing the decoding.


So if the content is a DD or DTS 5.1 Bitstream, the decoding results in LPCM 5.1 digital audio -- whether the Source or the Anthem does that. But both the original 5.1 Bitstream and the 5.1 LPCM that results from decoding can be raised to 7.1 speakers of output using an Audio Surround Mode in the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22828018
> 
> 
> Is it possible to turn on my TV using the D2v? I'd like to have an event such that when i turn on my D2v, it triggers the TV to turn on. Is that possible and if so how?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



The D2v does not support remote control of other devices via HDMI CEC. Nor does it accept control from other devices over HDMI.


Your best bet is to use a programmable remote (such as Logitech Harmony) which can be set to turn on/off multiple devices according to what you tell it you want to do at the moment.


Programming the Harmony stuff is not complicated. If you can figure out the Setup menu in the D2v you can figure out how to configure a Harmony.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22828423
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22828018
> 
> 
> Is it possible to turn on my TV using the D2v? I'd like to have an event such that when i turn on my D2v, it triggers the TV to turn on. Is that possible and if so how?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The D2v does not support remote control of other devices via HDMI CEC. Nor does it accept control from other devices over HDMI.
> 
> 
> Your best bet is to use a programmable remote (such as Logitech Harmony) which can be set to turn on/off multiple devices according to what you tell it you want to do at the moment.
> 
> 
> Programming the Harmony stuff is not complicated. If you can figure out the Setup menu in the D2v you can figure out how to configure a Harmony.
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...

I bought the Harmony One over a year ago(







) on a whim and have been staring at it ever since







. It looks complicated to program? The dated D2v setup menu is a piece of cake to me







...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For a programmable remote, the Harmony is trivial to set up. Other units require something like actual programming.


There's a whole forum here dedicated to programmable remotes where you will find people willing to talk you down from the ledge.

--Bob


----------



## teachdocs

Hello. Looking for some help on an issue I am having with my setup. Over the past several weeks, the TV image has begun to develop red pixels on the screen. Sometimes it would progress to a complete pink/red tint of the entire screen. I would gently move the HDMI I out connection at the D2V and that would fix the problem. I thought maybe I had a bad HDMI cable, so I replaced that without any improvement. The HDMI output connector looks OK, but the HDMI cable seems to fit a bit looser than in the HDMI 2 output. I switched the cable to the HDMI 2 output and the red/pink problem seemed to resolve. However, then the TV picture began to completely go dark for a few seconds, then come back on again. The audio would continue thru this screen blackout. Otherwise, the picture is perfect. I have not changed my D2V settings for quite a while, and it is currently set at 10 bit color as it would never work correctly at 12 bit. Changing to 8 bit had no effect on this problem I am having. I did update to V 2.10 severl months ago, but I don't think that is related to this issue. In addition, the issue is noted on multiple source inputs thru HDMI 1-5.

At first, I thought maybe the HDMI 1 output connector was going bad and might need replacement. But now, wondering if something else in the unit.

Any ideas or where I should start to look?

Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *teachdocs*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22828674
> 
> 
> Hello. Looking for some help on an issue I am having with my setup. Over the past several weeks, the TV image has begun to develop red pixels on the screen. Sometimes it would progress to a complete pink/red tint of the entire screen. I would gently move the HDMI I out connection at the D2V and that would fix the problem. I thought maybe I had a bad HDMI cable, so I replaced that without any improvement. The HDMI output connector looks OK, but the HDMI cable seems to fit a bit looser than in the HDMI 2 output. I switched the cable to the HDMI 2 output and the red/pink problem seemed to resolve. However, then the TV picture began to completely go dark for a few seconds, then come back on again. The audio would continue thru this screen blackout. Otherwise, the picture is perfect. I have not changed my D2V settings for quite a while, and it is currently set at 10 bit color as it would never work correctly at 12 bit. Changing to 8 bit had no effect on this problem I am having. I did update to V 2.10 severl months ago, but I don't think that is related to this issue. In addition, the issue is noted on multiple source inputs thru HDMI 1-5.
> 
> At first, I thought maybe the HDMI 1 output connector was going bad and might need replacement. But now, wondering if something else in the unit.
> 
> Any ideas or where I should start to look?
> 
> Thanks!



Give Anthem Tech Support a call. It may be as simple as that the Main HDMI Output (HDMI 1 out) simply needs to be reseated in its connection to the Video Processor board.


If you are using a longer HDMI cable for output you may need to upgrade your cable, but what you describe sounds more like a problem with the HDMI daughter board.

--Bob


----------



## p.las

Hello

After i have uploaded firmware 3.09f there seams to bee som problems with my Subs.

In quiet scenes where there is only dialog, and the MV is on -10db or so, i Can hear my subs generate low fz Sound . As soon as i pause the movie , it dissappere. Any comments on that?

At first it Sounds like a High noise floor. But when you get closer to the Subs , it's easy to hear the "noise" ....like a low pink noise


----------



## cvinfig

Anyone have a link to the post about setting up dual subwoofers with ARC?


Thanks,

--Chuck


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cvinfig*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22829141
> 
> 
> Anyone have a link to the post about setting up dual subwoofers with ARC?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> --Chuck



Check the MRX thread FAQ, first page second post.

John


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39650_50#post_22828423
> 
> 
> The D2v does not support remote control of other devices via HDMI CEC. Nor does it accept control from other devices over HDMI.
> 
> 
> Your best bet is to use a programmable remote (such as Logitech Harmony) which can be set to turn on/off multiple devices according to what you tell it you want to do at the moment.
> 
> 
> Programming the Harmony stuff is not complicated. If you can figure out the Setup menu in the D2v you can figure out how to configure a Harmony.
> 
> --Bob


Although the D2v does not do HDMI CEC, It has power trigger (12v) that let you power on/off amps. And also use I a smartstrip that when the my D2 power on it enable the other power port on the strip. But some tv and cable box like to be powered on all the time so they can download the tv guide.


Otherwise like Bob said the Harmony is not complicated (not more than ARC) and there threads in the remote-control topic where you can get help if needed.


----------



## mludviksen

I'm a big fan of the Roomie app for iOS, and I created a "RoomieCodes.plist" XML file for the serial codes if anyone is interested...

RoomieCodes.plist.xml 4k .xml file


I couldn't upload a ".plist" file, so I added ".xml" to the end. You'll have to remove the ".xml" from the end of the file before use and understand how to get the file into Roomie.


I would recommend modifying the attached file and giving your inputs "real" names and removing those that you are not using. That way, your input selections will make sense and there won't be any unnecessary clutter. I also sent this file to the folks at Roomie and recorded some diagnostics with it. I'm hoping they'll use the diagnostics to incorporate feedback as well so you'll be able to see the volume, input and mode settings directly in Roomie.


----------



## nrwatson

Thanks Bob that's clearer

Neale


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22829076
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> After i have uploaded firmware 3.09f there seams to bee som problems with my Subs.
> 
> In quiet scenes where there is only dialog, and the MV is on -10db or so, i Can hear my subs generate low fz Sound . As soon as i pause the movie , it dissappere. Any comments on that?
> 
> At first it Sounds like a High noise floor. But when you get closer to the Subs , it's easy to hear the "noise" ....like a low pink noise



Have now uploaded the official 3.09 and the issue is gone. I now Will try to upload 3.09c


The Best Way to put it - it Sound like a truck i outside my house........High noisefloor


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22831119
> 
> 
> Have now uploaded the official 3.09 and the issue is gone. I now Will try to upload 3.09c
> 
> 
> The Best Way to put it - it Sound like a truck i outside my house........High noisefloor



Hmm I've installed 3.09f and didn't notice any noise from my 2 Submersives but I wasn't pressing my ear near them so will try something tonight and see if the problem your describing is there.


I did another ARC calibration last night as i always do after installing new firmware (just me) and I've tested some DTS-HD MA 7.1 discs and now the system seems to lack dynamics especially the bass. I tested Thor and Underworld-Awakening and both sounded weak. So putting back 3.09c.


Also no issues with low noise floor with subs using 3.09f.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22831179
> 
> 
> Hmm I've installed 3.09f and didn't notice any noise from my 2 Submersives but I wasn't pressing my ear near them so will try something tonight and see if the problem your describing is there.
> 
> 
> I did another ARC calibration last night as i always do after installing new firmware (just me) and I've tested some DTS-HD MA 7.1 discs and now the system seems to lack dynamics especially the bass. I tested Thor and Underworld-Awakening and both sounded weak. So putting back 3.09c.
> 
> 
> Also no issues with low noise floor with subs using 3.09f.



You don't have to put your ears against the Subs. I silent scenes i Sound like a aircon or something . It is not pronounced . Back again to 3.09 no problem


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22831274
> 
> 
> You don't have to put your ears against the Subs. I silent scenes i Sound like a aircon or something . It is not pronounced . Back again to 3.09 no problem



Very strange. One thing that happened tonight with 3.09f was I couldn't bring up the main menu on the screen while I had a movie paused. I have gone back to 3.09c as that was very stable. With 3.09 does that still have the volume issue with DTS-HD MA or was that fixed? Can't remember which firmware addressed the front and centre speaker volume issue.


----------



## cvinfig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jayray*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22830066
> 
> 
> Check the MRX thread FAQ, first page second post.
> 
> John



Thanks. That explains why I couldn't find it in this thread.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22831305
> 
> 
> Very strange. One thing that happened tonight with 3.09f was I couldn't bring up the main menu on the screen while I had a movie paused. I have gone back to 3.09c as that was very stable. With 3.09 does that still have the volume issue with DTS-HD MA or was that fixed? Can't remember which firmware addressed the front and centre speaker volume issue.



The issue is fixed in 3.09


But the MV when it is DTS hd MR is 3db hot in bitstream vs lpcm . But i dó not see this as a problem .


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


I have always used RGB on my D2v, my sources and my projector because when I tried the preferable YCbCr i always had some problems, and I didn't bother to investigate.

But lately I have inserted a Darbee between my D2v and my projector therefore I had to set all my video devices to YCbCr.

But I do have 2 problems:


- If i set my Video output config on the D2v to YcbCr 4:2:2 the picture is invariably pink-magenta, eben on the setup menu

- So I set the Video output config to YCbCr 4:4:4, which works but at every source change, track change within a blue-ray (for example between trailers), I get a full screen pink magenta flicker.


I could live with that but I would appreciate if someone had a solution.

My D2v is using the 3.09f FW.


Thanks


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mludviksen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22830761
> 
> 
> I'm a big fan of the Roomie app for iOS, and I created a "RoomieCodes.plist" XML file for the serial codes if anyone is interested...
> 
> RoomieCodes.plist.xml 4k .xml file
> 
> 
> I couldn't upload a ".plist" file, so I added ".xml" to the end. You'll have to remove the ".xml" from the end of the file before use and understand how to get the file into Roomie.
> 
> 
> I would recommend modifying the attached file and giving your inputs "real" names and removing those that you are not using. That way, your input selections will make sense and there won't be any unnecessary clutter. I also sent this file to the folks at Roomie and recorded some diagnostics with it. I'm hoping they'll use the diagnostics to incorporate feedback as well so you'll be able to see the volume, input and mode settings directly in Roomie.



I've been using Roomie now for 6 weeks with my 50v. Flawless! Responsiveness is immediate and not sluggish like my Harmony 900 RF remote could be. I've started programming the IR macros to take advantage of some direct access to soft inputs and the like. Anyone who is looking for a really great remote solution on iOS devices, look at the Roomie. It's been a stellar experience for me thus far.


Theo


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22831769
> 
> 
> The issue is fixed in 3.09
> 
> 
> But the MV when it is DTS hd MR is 3db hot in bitstream vs lpcm . But i dó not see this as a problem .



Remember that 3.09c fixed this:

*"Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements"*


----------



## paradigm25

Can someone tell me how to post ARC result here. I used to post Word files with screen captures.


Thanks.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22834637
> 
> 
> Can someone tell me how to post ARC result here. I used to post Word files with screen captures.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Alt Print screen

Paste into paint

Save as Jpeg


----------



## SimonNo10

Thought I would post my latest ARC results here:

Results1.jpg 634k .jpg file

Results2.jpg 633k .jpg file

Targets.jpg 111k .jpg file


I changed the fronts from 85 to 90 and the rears from 90 to 95 (attempt to improve the calculated curve for Front Left and Rear Right speakers) and added 2.0 room gain as I don't get any due to treated room.


----------



## paradigm25

Thanks.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22834897
> 
> 
> Thought I would post my latest ARC results here:
> 
> Results1.jpg 634k .jpg file
> 
> Results2.jpg 633k .jpg file
> 
> Targets.jpg 111k .jpg file
> 
> 
> I changed the fronts from 85 to 90 and the rears from 90 to 95 (attempt to improve the calculated curve for Front Left and Rear Right speakers) and added 2.0 room gain as I don't get any due to treated room.



This made me wonder. When someone raises the crossover for the set of speakers shouldn't the sub be raised also and how would this be done in ARC as it uses cutoffs which isn't the crossover for a sub?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ ARC automatically adjusts the Crossover for the Sub as part of building the solution. Letting the user set both would over-constrain the problem.


Of course it is still possible for the user to manually select Targets that can't result in a good solution -- e.g., making the Crossover for the mains higher than the Sub is actually able to go when handed that steered bass -- but ARC will do what it can.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22729185
> 
> 
> 
> It is hard to describe sound; but I will try. I lack clarity and the feel of a large sound stage, or someone once said as if you have thrown a towel on the speakers. Lack of enough bass is another big thing. Lot of my friends and family have heard the system, and no one ever said that it sounds good, not that I care, but just to tell you that its not just me. It sounds little open when I use Analog Audio outs form Oppo and go AnlgDIR at D2v, but bass does gets boomy when I do that, and I forego all the benefit of ARC.
> 
> 
> And about the sound form the dealer equipment; as you would know it is a very different system in an acoustically treated room, so it did sound good, but very hard to compare and hard to say why, and what I mean by that is that it may be because of other things not because of the higher grade cables, or is it because of higher grade cables. That is the question I guess.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22729099
> 
> 
> Glad you came back here before you "Bit the Bullet " for those $$$ cables and McIntosh gear.
> 
> I heard it at RMAF last month and was not impressed
> 
> You do have good equipment that should give you excellent audio.
> 
> Did the dealers system sound $$$ than yours ?
> 
> Exactly what is it that bothers you about the sound of your system ? Describe what kind of sound are you chasing ?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22729063
> 
> 
> I need some advice, and I am sure it has been discussed here before.
> 
> 
> I have my gripes about sound quality of my system, and everyone says that I have good components, and they are: Anthem: D2v and P5, Paradigm: S8's, S2's, C3 and Sub25, Oppo 95, and a Sony ES5400.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I was at a AV system dealer in town to see if changing my D2v with a McIntosh MX151 may solve my situation. This dealer has McIntosh, and Meridian level of equipment.
> 
> 
> After I told him what was going-on and what my problem was, he said that my weak link here was my cheap cables, and he strongly suggested replacing all my cables including power cables with Audio Quest cables. I am a big skeptic when it comes to expensive looking cables, and I do not believe that very expensive cables can necessarily improve sound quality.
> 
> 
> I have gone through three cheaper cables myself; I started with monoprice, then someone said Mogami, and right now I am using all Blue Jeans interconnects, and power cords are what came with the equipment. I use 8 gage bi-wire for speakers and XLR, RCA's, and HDMI's for interconnects. http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#
> 
> 
> I am sure there are lot of people here who have gone through this, so before I shell-out couple of thousand of dollars, I just want to ask the experts here; what their recommendation is, and what their experience is with the effect of cables is in a system like mine.
> 
> 
> Thanks.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22729185
> 
> 
> 
> It is hard to describe sound; but I will try. I lack clarity and the feel of a large sound stage, or someone once said as if you have thrown a towel on the speakers. Lack of enough bass is another big thing. Lot of my friends and family have heard the system, and no one ever said that it sounds good, not that I care, but just to tell you that its not just me. It sounds little open when I use Analog Audio outs form Oppo and go AnlgDIR at D2v, but bass does gets boomy when I do that, and I forego all the benefit of ARC.
> 
> 
> And about the sound form the dealer equipment; as you would know it is a very different system in an acoustically treated room, so it did sound good, but very hard to compare and hard to say why, and what I mean by that is that it may be because of other things not because of the higher grade cables, or is it because of higher grade cables. That is the question I guess.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help.



"thestewman", "boyce89967", "bob", "dmusoke", and others:


Here are my latest ARC results. I think my problem is in low frequency area, if you see my charts, the sub really drops off at about 50Hz. Moving the sub and/or room treatment are not the options.


"dmusoke": I think I have found one SVS AS-EQ1, but have not finalized with the seller, I might get it. Would that really help?


I appreciate all the input and advice. I am just too frustrated. With all this equipment such lousy sound. I need help.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22835060
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "thestewman", "boyce89967", "bob", "dmusoke", and others:
> 
> 
> Here are my latest ARC results. I think my problem is in low frequency area, if you see my charts, the sub really drops off at about 50Hz. Moving the sub and/or room treatment are not the options.
> 
> 
> "dmusoke": I think I have found one SVS AS-EQ1, but have not finalized with the seller, I might get it. Would that really help?
> 
> 
> I appreciate all the input and advice. I am just too frustrated. With all this equipment such lousy sound. I need help.



Please post your Targets


----------



## SimonNo10

What I find strange is looking at Paradigm25's graphs especially the one's for the Front Left and Front Right, look how well ARC brings that curve right in line with the Target curve, but with my Front Left and Surround Right it doesn't and my measured curve doesn't look as bad. I've tried to improve the Surround Right's position by angling it in more and moving it closer to the main listening position by a few feet but I continue to get the same dip which ARC can't fully fix/adjust close to the Target curve.


Sorry to detract from your graphs Paradigm25 and hope you sort out your issues soon. Great people on here to assist as they have me since purchasing the D2v.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22835060
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "thestewman", "boyce89967", "bob", "dmusoke", and others:
> 
> 
> Here are my latest ARC results. I think my problem is in low frequency area, if you see my charts, the sub really drops off at about 50Hz. Moving the sub and/or room treatment are not the options.
> 
> 
> "dmusoke": I think I have found one SVS AS-EQ1, but have not finalized with the seller, I might get it. Would that really help?
> 
> 
> I appreciate all the input and advice. I am just too frustrated. With all this equipment such lousy sound. I need help.



Your response charts look pretty good, though there is significant rolloff above 10khz (which should not be the case with the Sig's). Also, based on your charts, your low frequencies look to be benefiting from room gain and strong modes at around 50hz. This combination can lead to a muddy, less detailed sound, but that's not really what your complaint is. You should be HEARING the opposite of what you are hearing (will know more when you post your "targets" window).


Are you certain your measurements are done correctly? Mic pointing straight up, at the listening positions? How many positions are you measuring? Are you measuring from locations that AREN"T actual listening positions?


Hope we can help... would be a shame not to get the sound that is capable from your system.


----------



## obie_fl

Those charts actually look pretty good to me. I would bet the rolloff above 10K is the mic since is so similar across the speakers, ARC shouldn't be touching that anyway. Some serious room gain on the mains but it looks like ARC handles it well. Lets see those targets.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22830371
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39650_50#post_22828423
> 
> 
> The D2v does not support remote control of other devices via HDMI CEC. Nor does it accept control from other devices over HDMI.
> 
> 
> Your best bet is to use a programmable remote (such as Logitech Harmony) which can be set to turn on/off multiple devices according to what you tell it you want to do at the moment.
> 
> 
> Programming the Harmony stuff is not complicated. If you can figure out the Setup menu in the D2v you can figure out how to configure a Harmony.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> Although the D2v does not do HDMI CEC, It has power trigger (12v) that let you power on/off amps. And also use I a smartstrip that when the my D2 power on it enable the other power port on the strip. But some tv and cable box like to be powered on all the time so they can download the tv guide.
> 
> 
> Otherwise like Bob said the Harmony is not complicated (not more than ARC) and there threads in the remote-control topic where you can get help if needed.
Click to expand...

Actually the trigger method would be faster for me right now. Thanks Tranle







! Programming the Harmony remote would be the optimal solution.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22835060
> 
> 
> "thestewman", "boyce89967", "bob", "dmusoke", and others:
> 
> 
> Here are my latest ARC results. I think my problem is in low frequency area, if you see my charts, the sub really drops off at about 50Hz. Moving the sub and/or room treatment are not the options.
> 
> 
> "dmusoke": I think I have found one SVS AS-EQ1, but have not finalized with the seller, I might get it. Would that really help?
> 
> 
> I appreciate all the input and advice. I am just too frustrated. With all this equipment such lousy sound. I need help.


 

I'll answer the simplest one first... GET the SVS EQ1 especially if you have dual subs. It handles sub bass way better than ARC does.

 

Now the "lack" of bass response you alluded to earlier, IMO is due to the low room gain you choose. Probably ARC must have suggested something higher and you reduced it to make your graphs look 'prettier' but not sound better than the ARC solution. Did you try the default solution that ARC gave you at 5K with the default room gain? Please post original and new targets.

 

The deep null at 70Hz is IMO probably due to a room mode. Since you said (and correct me if i'm wrong) that moving the sub is not an option, the you have 2 other options that will involve money. Invest in the SVS EQ-1 as i said before and, if you can swing it, get a 2nd sub(same type/tonality/manufacturer) as the first one and place it in the back of the room for example. The fix would involve running  the SVS to time or phase align the subs which would help eliminate that null and provide even bass response around the room.


----------



## SimonNo10

Is it safe to say that if i can't get a 2nd hand SVS AS-EQ1 then would the Velodyne SMS-1 be the next best thing?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22835060
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "thestewman", "boyce89967", "bob", "dmusoke", and others:
> 
> 
> Here are my latest ARC results. I think my problem is in low frequency area, if you see my charts, the sub really drops off at about 50Hz. Moving the sub and/or room treatment are not the options.
> 
> 
> "dmusoke": I think I have found one SVS AS-EQ1, but have not finalized with the seller, I might get it. Would that really help?
> 
> 
> I appreciate all the input and advice. I am just too frustrated. With all this equipment such lousy sound. I need help.


Your charts, with the exception of your sub, look very good. You are missing out on a lot of LFE between 40 Hz and 90 Hz which is, more than likely, the reason why your bass is so weak. Your sub is only showing good low frequency response from about 28 Hz to 40 Hz. After 40 Hz, your sub is tanking and not coming back to life again until about 90 Hz. Since moving your sub is really not an option, then you would have to try something like the SVS AS-EQ1 to try to eliminate the null. However, I am not a fan of trying to use EQ to fix that kind of a problem. EQ should really be used to cut peaks not try to fix nulls especially if you have to apply a lot of boost to fix the problem which looks like is what you will need to do. To fix your problem, you really need to move your sub to a different location. That's really only true way to deal with your sub's issue. You can try a second sub; but, before you do, try moving your current sub to the location where you would place your second sub and see what your sub's frequency response looks like there. I always caution with getting a second, third, fourth, etc.. sub when your sub locations have limits because it's possible you could get a second sub and your sub's chart could look worse because the subs could be canceling each other out. If that happens, then the only way to fix that is to move your subs around. So, if you do have another location that you can move your sub to, I strongly suggest you try that first. It's possible that you just need to move your sub a few inches to see a big difference in your chart. So, I suggest that you work with what you have as much as possible before spending additional money because spending additional money may still not get you what you are looking for. Remember, when it comes to the speakers and subs, it's all about LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION. EQ is only used as icing on the cake.


BTW, if you could post your Target View and your speaker trims that ARC set, that would be helpful too.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22835751
> 
> 
> Is it safe to say that if i can't get a 2nd hand SVS AS-EQ1 then would the Velodyne SMS-1 be the next best thing?


What kind of problem are you trying to fix for your sub? Maybe just changing your sub's location could fix your problem.


----------



## cvinfig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22835875
> 
> 
> Your charts, with the exception of your sub, look very good. You are missing out on a lot of LFE between 40 Hz and 90 Hz which is, more than likely, the reason why your bass is so weak. Your sub is only showing good low frequency response from about 28 Hz to 40 Hz. After 40 Hz, your sub is tanking and not coming back to life again until about 90 Hz. Since moving your sub is really not an option, then you would have to try something like the SVS AS-EQ1 to try to eliminate the null. However, I am not a fan of trying to use EQ to fix that kind of a problem. EQ should really be used to cut peaks not try to fix nulls especially if you have to apply a lot of boost to fix the problem which looks like is what you will need to do. To fix your problem, you really need to move your sub to a different location. That's really only true way to deal with your sub's issue. You can try a second sub; but, before you do, try moving your current sub to the location where you would place your second sub and see what your sub's frequency response looks like there. I always caution with getting a second, third, fourth, etc.. sub when your sub locations have limits because it's possible you could get a second sub and your sub's chart could look worse because the subs could be canceling each other out. If that happens, then the only way to fix that is to move your subs around. So, if you do have another location that you can move your sub to, I strongly suggest you try that first. It's possible that you just need to move your sub a few inches to see a big difference in your chart. So, I suggest that you work with what you have as much as possible before spending additional money because spending additional money may still not get you what you are looking for. Remember, when it comes to the speakers and subs, it's all about LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION. EQ is only used as icing on the cake.
> 
> 
> BTW, if you could post your Target View and your speaker trims that ARC set, that would be helpful too.



Bass traps, bass traps, bass traps... Here are a couple of links:
https://gikacoustics.com/product-category/broadband-bass-traps/ 
http://www.realtraps.com/


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22835875
> 
> 
> Your charts, with the exception of your sub, look very good. You are missing out on a lot of LFE between 40 Hz and 90 Hz which is, more than likely, the reason why your bass is so weak. Your sub is only showing good low frequency response from about 28 Hz to 40 Hz. After 40 Hz, your sub is tanking and not coming back to life again until about 90 Hz. Since moving your sub is really not an option, then you would have to try something like the SVS AS-EQ1 to try to eliminate the null. However, I am not a fan of trying to use EQ to fix that kind of a problem. EQ should really be used to cut peaks not try to fix nulls especially if you have to apply a lot of boost to fix the problem which looks like is what you will need to do. To fix your problem, you really need to move your sub to a different location. That's really only true way to deal with your sub's issue. You can try a second sub; but, before you do, try moving your current sub to the location where you would place your second sub and see what your sub's frequency response looks like there. I always caution with getting a second, third, fourth, etc.. sub when your sub locations have limits because it's possible you could get a second sub and your sub's chart could look worse because the subs could be canceling each other out. If that happens, then the only way to fix that is to move your subs around. So, if you do have another location that you can move your sub to, I strongly suggest you try that first. It's possible that you just need to move your sub a few inches to see a big difference in your chart. So, I suggest that you work with what you have as much as possible before spending additional money because spending additional money may still not get you what you are looking for. Remember, when it comes to the speakers and subs, it's all about LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION. EQ is only used as icing on the cake.
> 
> 
> BTW, if you could post your Target View and your speaker trims that ARC set, that would be helpful too.



Yes, there is a problem with the sub rolling off above 60-70Hz. And the bass impact most people want in a home theater is between 100 -150 Hz.

Please check that you have the sub in bypass mode by setting the Subwoofer Cut-Off Frequency above 150 Hz or into Bypass Option


Would you also go into the Anthem loudspeaker setup and post the crossover frequencies that are there.

Did you manually change any ARC cutoff frequencies or the crossover frequencies in the setup


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22833947
> 
> 
> Remember that 3.09c fixed this:
> 
> *"Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements"*



Also an important fix for the 50v low power-on volume bug.


Didn't Bob find a new bug introduced in 3.09f? I'm sticking with c but I understand it isn't available for download since f was posted.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22832191
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I have always used RGB on my D2v, my sources and my projector because when I tried the preferable YCbCr i always had some problems, and I didn't bother to investigate.
> 
> But lately I have inserted a Darbee between my D2v and my projector therefore I had to set all my video devices to YCbCr.
> 
> But I do have 2 problems:
> 
> 
> - If i set my Video output config on the D2v to YcbCr 4:2:2 the picture is invariably pink-magenta, eben on the setup menu
> 
> - So I set the Video output config to YCbCr 4:4:4, which works but at every source change, track change within a blue-ray (for example between trailers), I get a full screen pink magenta flicker.



Whenever I change the output format, my display requires a power cycle to cope with it. If you turn everything off and on it should be fine.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22836589
> 
> 
> Yes, there is a problem with the sub rolling off above 60-70Hz. And the bass impact most people want in a home theater is between 100 -150 Hz.
> 
> Please check that you have the sub in bypass mode by setting the Subwoofer Cut-Off Frequency above 150 Hz or into Bypass Option
> 
> 
> Would you also go into the Anthem loudspeaker setup and post the crossover frequencies that are there.
> 
> Did you manually change any ARC cutoff frequencies or the crossover frequencies in the setup





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22835875
> 
> 
> Your charts, with the exception of your sub, look very good. You are missing out on a lot of LFE between 40 Hz and 90 Hz which is, more than likely, the reason why your bass is so weak. Your sub is only showing good low frequency response from about 28 Hz to 40 Hz. After 40 Hz, your sub is tanking and not coming back to life again until about 90 Hz. Since moving your sub is really not an option, then you would have to try something like the SVS AS-EQ1 to try to eliminate the null. However, I am not a fan of trying to use EQ to fix that kind of a problem. EQ should really be used to cut peaks not try to fix nulls especially if you have to apply a lot of boost to fix the problem which looks like is what you will need to do. To fix your problem, you really need to move your sub to a different location. That's really only true way to deal with your sub's issue. You can try a second sub; but, before you do, try moving your current sub to the location where you would place your second sub and see what your sub's frequency response looks like there. I always caution with getting a second, third, fourth, etc.. sub when your sub locations have limits because it's possible you could get a second sub and your sub's chart could look worse because the subs could be canceling each other out. If that happens, then the only way to fix that is to move your subs around. So, if you do have another location that you can move your sub to, I strongly suggest you try that first. It's possible that you just need to move your sub a few inches to see a big difference in your chart. So, I suggest that you work with what you have as much as possible before spending additional money because spending additional money may still not get you what you are looking for. Remember, when it comes to the speakers and subs, it's all about LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION. EQ is only used as icing on the cake.
> 
> 
> BTW, if you could post your Target View and your speaker trims that ARC set, that would be helpful too.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22836589
> 
> 
> Yes, there is a problem with the sub rolling off above 60-70Hz. And the bass impact most people want in a home theater is between 100 -150 Hz.
> 
> Please check that you have the sub in bypass mode by setting the Subwoofer Cut-Off Frequency above 150 Hz or into Bypass Option
> 
> 
> Would you also go into the Anthem loudspeaker setup and post the crossover frequencies that are there.
> 
> Did you manually change any ARC cutoff frequencies or the crossover frequencies in the setup



This is my targets window:
 


I did not change crossover frequencies manually. I have the sub set to 120Hz (at the sub), because that is the maximum you can go on a Paradigm Sub25.


Thank you.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22837875
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my targets window:
> 
> 
> 
> I did not change crossover frequencies manually. I have the sub set to 120Hz (at the sub), because that is the maximum you can go on a Paradigm Sub25.
> 
> 
> Thank you.



Go into your speaker setup and post the crossover frequencies


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22837875
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my targets window:
> 
> 
> 
> I did not change crossover frequencies manually. I have the sub set to 120Hz (at the sub), because that is the maximum you can go on a Paradigm Sub25.
> 
> 
> Thank you.



Can I ask why you changed your ARC correction cutoff frequency to 10khz? You essentially have ARC slightly boosting treble frequencies between 5khz - 10khz for most of your speakers. This is a frequency range that can cause a thin/tinny sound perception, which may be part of the problem, particularly if your mic is causing the rolloff (which someone else suggested),which would mean you are boosting frequencies where it's not needed.


I would change that back to 5khz, as a first step, recalculate, save the new calculation as a different solution (ARC 1.16.13 5khz.xxx) and then load it as your ARC solution. This way, if you like the 10khz solution better, you still have it saved and can easily reload it.


Also, it's curious to me that ARC set your Sub Cutoff frequency to 80hz for a Sub 25. I'm not sure of the proper procedure to do this, but you might try raising your Sub Cutoff frequency in the targets window to 120hz, to get more of the low-mid bass (the impact frequencies) back into your sub... LFE signals range from 120hz down...


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22837997
> 
> 
> Can I ask why you changed your ARC correction cutoff frequency to 10khz? You essentially have ARC slightly boosting treble frequencies between 5khz - 10khz for most of your speakers. This is a frequency range that can cause a thin/tinny sound perception, which may be part of the problem, particularly if your mic is causing the rolloff (which someone else suggested),which would mean you are boosting frequencies where it's not needed.
> 
> 
> I would change that back to 5khz, as a first step, recalculate, save the new calculation as a different solution (ARC 1.16.13 5khz.xxx) and then load it as your ARC solution. This way, if you like the 10khz solution better, you still have it saved and can easily reload it.
> 
> 
> Also, it's curious to me that ARC set your Sub Cutoff frequency to 80hz for a Sub 25. I'm not sure of the proper procedure to do this, but you might try raising your Sub Cutoff frequency in the targets window to 120hz, to get more of the low-mid bass (the impact frequencies) back into your sub... LFE signals range from 120hz down...



Yes, I forgot to mention, the charts I uploaded had MaxEq set at 10000KHz and Subwoofer High Pass order as Flat.


Here are the charts with default 5,000kHz, and Auto. I did set the test tone level at 75 before starting the measurements.

 
 
 


I think sub got worse with default.


Thank you for all the help here. It is amazing (I wish I could say that for the sound as well.).


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22838345
> 
> 
> Yes, I forgot to mention, the charts I uploaded had MaxEq set at 10000KHz and Subwoofer High Pass order as Flat.
> 
> 
> Here are the charts with default 5,000kHz, and Auto. I did set the test tone level at 75 before starting the measurements.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think sub got worse with default.
> 
> 
> Thank you for all the help here. It is amazing (I wish I could say that for the sound as well.).



Okay, being set to "auto" ARC is rolling off your sub response below 30hz. Now set your sub to "flat" in the targets window on the advanced tab, to remap your sub to flat below 20hz, then recalculate and reload the solution.


We also need to see a screen shot of how your LFE Xover is set in the D2v setup menu.


Don't worry, we'll get it, just have to eliminate the potential causes.


----------



## paradigm25

^My earlier charts were with sub set to flat and High Eq set to 10,000kHz. This latest one is for Auto and 5,000KHz. Do you mean to say you need to see with 5,000kHz and Flat?


Thanks. I will post D2v settings later today.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22835878
> 
> 
> What kind of problem are you trying to fix for your sub? Maybe just changing your sub's location could fix your problem.



It's not a problem just want to improve things if I can and wanted to know if the SMS-1 would help with that and improve my current measured curve so when I run ARC it will be the cherry on top so to speak. I have moved my 2 subs around the entire room (running QM) and their current location (Front corner right and back corner left) gave me the best result. Refer to graph:


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22838556
> 
> 
> ^My earlier charts were with sub set to flat and High Eq set to 10,000kHz. This latest one is for Auto and 5,000KHz. Do you mean to say you need to see with 5,000kHz and Flat?
> 
> 
> Thanks. I will post D2v settings later today.



Sound any better? I'm guessing your mains are in a corner? Try pulling them either into the room further or move them closer to the center. Also play with the toe in on the mains which can make a huge difference in imaging with some speakers. Your sub may not be doing as much as it can for two reasons the first being that null at 70hz and second the large room gain on your mains. ARC is likely rolling off the high end of your sub for those two reasons. Just out of curiosity what does you system sound like with ARC off? Did you ever post your crossover numbers just to make sure nothing is fishy there?


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22838556
> 
> 
> ^My earlier charts were with sub set to flat and High Eq set to 10,000kHz. This latest one is for Auto and 5,000KHz. Do you mean to say you need to see with 5,000kHz and Flat?
> 
> 
> Thanks. I will post D2v settings later today.



Yes. I suspect part of the problem was boosting high frequencies. Now with the sub set to "Auto" you are losing low frequencies (below 40hz). Set your sub back to flat, keeping the 5khz ARC limit.


Have you looked at your listening position to make sure it is in a suitable spot? You're MLP should not be close to a wall and should be a little farther from the FL and FR than they are apart. You also want to avoid multiples... rules of 1/3rd's usually work well.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22838579
> 
> 
> It's not a problem just want to improve things if I can and wanted to know if the SMS-1 would help with that and improve my current measured curve so when I run ARC it will be the cherry on top so to speak. I have moved my 2 subs around the entire room (running QM) and their current location (Front corner right and back corner left) gave me the best result. Refer to graph:



Your graph looks pretty good, I have the Velodyne SMS-1 and had a perfectly flat bass response with it but after running ARC this is what ARC's looked like, still have to go in and tweak one of these days. When I do I can post what I have been able to accomplish.
ARC.JPG 159k .JPG file


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22838742
> 
> 
> Sound any better? I'm guessing your mains are in a corner? Try pulling them either into the room further or move them closer to the center. Also play with the toe in on the mains which can make a huge difference in imaging with some speakers. Your sub may not be doing as much as it can for two reasons the first being that null at 70hz and second the large room gain on your mains. ARC is likely rolling off the high end of your sub for those two reasons. Just out of curiosity what does you system sound like with ARC off? Did you ever post your crossover numbers just to make sure nothing is fishy there?



With High EQ set to 10,000 or more it just sounds little brighter, but no big change in sound really. I will post a picture of my set up soon. I do not really understand the room gain effect, so cannot say anything about that. As of system sound with ARC off; it does sound open and cleaner yes, but I would forego benefits of D2v and ARC, I can probably get rid of it and go directly to amp from Oppo 105.


In D2v, all Xovers are at 60, including LFE.


Thanks.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22838815
> 
> 
> Yes. I suspect part of the problem was boosting high frequencies. Now with the sub set to "Auto" you are losing low frequencies (below 40hz). Set your sub back to flat, keeping the 5khz ARC limit.
> 
> 
> Have you looked at your listening position to make sure it is in a suitable spot? You're MLP should not be close to a wall and should be a little farther from the FL and FR than they are apart. You also want to avoid multiples... rules of 1/3rd's usually work well.



Changing Hi EQ frequency makes some difference, but nothing major either way. That has been the problem. I did not do the crawl test at least not yet, but moving the sub is almost impossible, it's my family room as well. I will post the pictures of my room shortly.


All Xover frequencies are set at 60Hz in D2v, including LFE.


Thanks.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22838994
> 
> 
> Changing Hi EQ frequency makes some difference, but nothing major either way. That has been the problem. I did not do the crawl test at least not yet, but moving the sub is almost impossible, it's my family room as well. I will post the pictures of my room shortly.
> 
> 
> All Xover frequencies are set at 60Hz in D2v, including LFE.
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Anthem highly recommends not going above 5 kHz for Max Frequency because the mic is unreliable regardless of how good your charts looks above 5 kHz. Any readings above 5 kHz can't be trusted. As for your sub, the only way to fix your problem, I think, is to find a new location for your sub. The Sub 25 is very capable without a doubt. Just check out the link below which is Jayray's Sub 25. He was able to achieve that by moving his sub.

http://www.avsforum.com/image/id/328764


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22838994
> 
> 
> Changing Hi EQ frequency makes some difference, but nothing major either way. That has been the problem. I did not do the crawl test at least not yet, but moving the sub is almost impossible, it's my family room as well. I will post the pictures of my room shortly.
> 
> 
> All Xover frequencies are set at 60Hz in D2v, including LFE.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



What is your setting for "bypass LFE Xover"?


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22839016
> 
> 
> Anthem highly recommends not going above 5 kHz for Max Frequency because the mic is unreliable regardless of how good your charts looks above 5 kHz. Any readings above 5 kHz can't be trusted. As for your sub, the only way to fix your problem, I think, is to find a new location for your sub. The Sub 25 is very capable without a doubt. Just check out the link below which is Jayray's Sub 25. He was able to achieve that by moving his sub.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/image/id/328764



That may be the flattest sub response curve ever! Nice job Jayray!


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22839072
> 
> 
> What is your setting for "bypass LFE Xover"?



No.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22839113
> 
> 
> No.



Setting it to "no" sets the LFE X-over to whatever the sub X-over is set to. Set it to "yes" to send full LFE to the sub. I wouldn't do that for your Music setting, but should be fine for Movie.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22838994
> 
> 
> Changing Hi EQ frequency makes some difference, but nothing major either way. That has been the problem. I did not do the crawl test at least not yet, but moving the sub is almost impossible, it's my family room as well. I will post the pictures of my room shortly.
> 
> 
> All Xover frequencies are set at 60Hz in D2v, including LFE.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



This is is is absolutely wrong. Post the entire speaker setup xover frequencies as in the set up page

We have asked for this before several times


----------



## jayray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22839092
> 
> 
> That may be the flattest sub response curve ever! Nice job Jayray!


Thanks, it took some time but with the help of PBK the result was excellent.

John


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22839452
> 
> 
> This is is is absolutely wrong. Post the entire speaker setup xover frequencies as in the set up page
> 
> We have asked for this before several times



3a. Bass Management - Movie:


a. Adv Settings: ON

b. Fronts: Advanced

c. Center: Advanced

d. Surrounds: Advanced

e. Rears: None

f. Subs: 1 sub

g> Xover Freq: Advanced

h. Fronts Xover: 60 Hz

i. Center Xover: 60 Hz

j. Surnd Xover: 60 Hz

k. Rear Xover: NA

l. Sub/LFE Xover: 60 Hz

m. Sub Polarity: Normal

n. Sub Phase: 0 Deg

o. Bypass LEF Xover: No



Thanks.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22839498
> 
> 
> 3a. Bass Management - Movie:
> 
> 
> a. Adv Settings: ON
> 
> b. Fronts: Advanced
> 
> c. Center: Advanced
> 
> d. Surrounds: Advanced
> 
> e. Rears: None
> 
> f. Subs: 1 sub
> 
> g> Xover Freq: Advanced
> 
> h. Fronts Xover: 60 Hz
> 
> i. Center Xover: 60 Hz
> 
> j. Surnd Xover: 60 Hz
> 
> k. Rear Xover: NA
> 
> l. Sub/LFE Xover: 60 Hz
> 
> m. Sub Polarity: Normal
> 
> n. Sub Phase: 0 Deg
> 
> o. Bypass LEF Xover: No
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Are you certain your sub is in-Phase with the rest of the system?


Where are you located? Maybe a member close to you can come over and see first-hand what's going on?


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22839522
> 
> 
> Are you certain your sub is in-Phase with the rest of the system?
> 
> 
> Where are you located? Maybe a member close to you can come over and see first-hand what's going on?



No, I could not tell you if my sub is in phase. I have tried to turn the knob in the back of the sub for phase, but it really does not do anything. That is why I am trying to find an AS Eq1.


I am in Baltimore, MD area.


Thanks.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22839566
> 
> 
> No, I could not tell you if my sub is in phase. I have tried to turn the knob in the back of the sub for phase, but it really does not do anything. That is why I am trying to find an AS Eq1.
> 
> 
> I am in Baltimore, MD area.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Well, I'll be at BWI soon on a short layover, but that's not going to help you. I'm starting to think the culprit is one, or more, of the following:


1. Listening position

2. Sub Phase

3. General placement/room environment


Your sub is putting out plenty of bass, except in the null around 70hz. And, you should be getting enough bass from your S8's to be satisfactory. Do you get better bass with the sub off? If so, that could be an indication that the sub is out of phase.


Have you contacted your retailer/installer to have them come out for an evaluation?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22839113
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22839072
> 
> 
> What is your setting for "bypass LFE Xover"?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No.
Click to expand...




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22839171
> 
> 
> 
> Setting it to "no" sets the LFE X-over to whatever the sub X-over is set to. Set it to "yes" to send full LFE to the sub. I wouldn't do that for your Music setting, but should be fine for Movie.



Bypass LFE XOVER is one of the set of settings which is ignored/bypassed during ARC Measurement, and also while playing any Source which has ARC enabled (Room EQ ON).


ARC effectively ALWAYS does a (more sophisticated) version of Bypass LFE XOVER, regardless of this setting.

--Bob


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22839761
> 
> 
> 
> Bypass LFE XOVER is one of the set of settings which is ignored/bypassed during ARC Measurement, and also while playing any Source which has ARC enabled (Room EQ ON).
> 
> 
> ARC effectively ALWAYS does a (more sophisticated) version of Bypass LFE XOVER, regardless of this setting.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, the way I understand "Bypass LFE XOVER" is that regardless of whether or not ARC is engaged, this setting determines whether or not the sub receives LFE below the X-over point (set to "no") or full range LFE (set to "yes"). The manual makes no mention of this setting being ARC dependent. Is this correct?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22839782
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22839761
> 
> 
> 
> Bypass LFE XOVER is one of the set of settings which is ignored/bypassed during ARC Measurement, and also while playing any Source which has ARC enabled (Room EQ ON).
> 
> 
> ARC effectively ALWAYS does a (more sophisticated) version of Bypass LFE XOVER, regardless of this setting.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob, the way I understand "Bypass LFE XOVER" is that regardless of whether or not ARC is engaged, this setting determines whether or not the sub receives LFE below the X-over point (set to "no") or full range LFE (set to "yes"). The manual makes no mention of this setting being ARC dependent. Is this correct?
Click to expand...


As I stated, Bypass LFE XOVER is one of the set of settings which is ignored when ARC is active. ARC does a more sophisticated version of the same thing -- essentially LFE content is handle specially ALL THE TIME when ARC is active.


Other legacy EQ settings also ignored while ARC is in use include Center EQ, Room Resonance Filter, THX Ultra 2 Sub, and THX Boundary Gain Compensation. Again ARC supersedes all of these, as their function is otherwise handled by the ARC solution.


NOTE: If you attempt to compare ARC vs no-ARC by turning Room EQ ON/OFF for any given Source, you need to be aware that any settings left hanging around in those will become active again while Room EQ is OFF. This is one of the things that make such a comparison difficult. (The others being that the Volume Trims ARC Uploads are set with the expectation that any boosts/cuts implemented by the Room Correction parameters are ALSO active, and that Crossover frequencies Uploaded are calculated assuming the Room Correction parameters are active as well -- i.e., the "best" non-ARC choice for the Volume Trims and Crossover frequencies might possibly be different than what ARC has Uploaded.)

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22837997
> 
> 
> Also, it's curious to me that ARC set your Sub Cutoff frequency to 80hz for a Sub 25. I'm not sure of the proper procedure to do this, but you might try raising your Sub Cutoff frequency in the targets window to 120hz, to get more of the low-mid bass (the impact frequencies) back into your sub... LFE signals range from 120hz down...


I'm willing to bet this is a placement issue.

I know it's not always easy in a living space, but the correct procedure is to move the sub around using quick measure to find the sweet spot. Then remeasure the room and hopefully get ARC to raise the Sub target automatically, rather than forcing it yourself, in order to get more bass out of the sub and not rely on the mains so much.

ARC used to give me a sub cutoff at 85 Hz until I moved the sub out of the corner and it magically went up to 100.


HTH,

Stefan


PS - the crossover in the D2v says 60 but the ARC target is 80? Interesting...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It is "normal" for the Subwoofer Cutoff value in the ARC Targets window to differ from the Subwoofer Crossover value Uploaded by ARC into the Setup menu. They represent two different things.


You can not set the Subwoofer Crossover as an ARC Target. ARC picks the best Subwoofer Crossover to use based on the Cutoff/Crossover values in place for the other speakers and the actual output of the Subwoofer. (Cutoff and Crossover WILL always match for the other speakers in the current ARC software.)


In any event both the Subwoofer Cutoff (80Hz) in Targets and the Uploaded Subwoofer Crossover (60Hz) are evidence that ARC is not happy with the high bass it is seeing from that Subwoofer. ARC is trying to avoid using it. Keep in mind that the ARC chart is an unweighted average of the Sub's response over all the mic positions. That dip you are seeing is the result of the averaging. The dip might be even more extreme at some of the mic positions. Spending some quality time with Quick Measure at the different mic positions (even without moving the sub) would reveal that.


This is not a happy Sub.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

I agree, well said!


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22839814
> 
> 
> As I stated, Bypass LFE XOVER is one of the set of settings which is ignored when ARC is active. ARC does a more sophisticated version of the same thing -- essentially LFE content is handle specially ALL THE TIME when ARC is active.
> 
> 
> Other legacy EQ settings also ignored while ARC is in use include Center EQ, Room Resonance Filter, THX Ultra 2 Sub, and THX Boundary Gain Compensation. Again ARC supersedes all of these, as their function is otherwise handled by the ARC solution.
> 
> 
> NOTE: If you attempt to compare ARC vs no-ARC by turning Room EQ ON/OFF for any given Source, you need to be aware that any settings left hanging around in those will become active again while Room EQ is OFF. This is one of the things that make such a comparison difficult.
> 
> --Bob


Just to clarify though, all legacy EQ settings are also ignored with Analog Direct, correct?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes. All of the audio processing, both ARC and the legacy EQ settings, happen in the digital domain. With ANALOG-DIRECT the Analog audio input is never re-digitized, so none of that processing is possible. It is all bypassed.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25

I am using XLR outs from my D2v to connect to the amplifier. Can I connect the sub using the RCA out, and leave all other channels connected via XLRs?


Thanks.


----------



## cvinfig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22842778
> 
> 
> I am using XLR outs from my D2v to connect to the amplifier. Can I connect the sub using the RCA out, and leave all other channels connected via XLRs?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



yes


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22842778
> 
> 
> I am using XLR outs from my D2v to connect to the amplifier. Can I connect the sub using the RCA out, and leave all other channels connected via XLRs?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Yes. The XLR outputs are +6dB hotter than the RCA outputs, so expect that you will need to adjust the Sub's volume to keep things matched (unless you select -6dB attenuation for the XLR inputs at your power amp). That's a one-time, setup adjustment of course.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22842778
> 
> 
> I am using XLR outs from my D2v to connect to the amplifier. Can I connect the sub using the RCA out, and leave all other channels connected via XLRs?
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Why ?

That will not fix your problem. I am using the XLR outs and have no such problem.

Have you thought about this ? Paradigm PBK http://www.paradigm.com/products/products-by-category/subwoofer/paradigm/paradigm-perfect-bass-kit/pbk 

This might be part of the answer. The PBK will change the SUB 25 to fit the room as much as possible.

There is a problem with your sub rolling off above 80 Hz. That will give you a system without any punch or life.

It is not the Sub 25 as it is a 3000 watt sub good from 35 Hz - 150 Hz with extension to 9hz

Possibly its something you have done in the setup or ARC.

Get the PBK kit or borrow one. The PBK is inexpensive and easy to use.

If I was home I would lend you mine, but I am away for 30 more days. Maybe another AVS member might step forward and loan you theirs.


I suggest you start by running the PBK and looking at what it displays. Then upload its settings

Reset everything in the speaker setup by resetting everything to default settings and then rerun ARC.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22843252
> 
> 
> Why ?
> 
> That will not fix your problem. I am using the XLR outs and have no such problem.
> 
> Have you thought about this ? Paradigm PBK http://www.paradigm.com/products/products-by-category/subwoofer/paradigm/paradigm-perfect-bass-kit/pbk
> 
> This might be part of the answer. The PBK will change the SUB 25 to fit the room as much as possible.
> 
> There is a problem with your sub rolling off above 80 Hz. That will give you a system without any punch or life.
> 
> It is not the Sub 25 as it is a 3000 watt sub good from 35 Hz - 150 Hz with extension to 9hz
> 
> Possibly its something you have done in the setup or ARC.
> 
> Get the PBK kit or borrow one. The PBK is inexpensive and easy to use.
> 
> If I was home I would lend you mine, but I am away for 30 more days. Maybe another AVS member might step forward and loan you theirs.
> 
> 
> I suggest you start by running the PBK and looking at what it displays. Then upload its settings
> 
> Reset everything in the speaker setup by resetting everything to default settings and then rerun ARC.



"thestewman":


Thank you for your attention; but this is a separate issue in a sense that I am trying to get a used AS EQ1 for the sub, and that only takes RCA inputs (I am not sure if I will ultimately get it yet).


Now you said PBK, I know PBK, and my understanding is that ARC has everything what PBK has and more, i.e., if you use ARC, you do not need to use PBK. Correct me if I am wrong, and at this point I am willing to try anything reasonable, and that is one of the reason for trying to get the AS EQ1. If PBK can fix it, I will buy it.


Thanks again.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22843504
> 
> 
> "thestewman":
> 
> 
> Thank you for your attention; but this is a separate issue in a sense that I am trying to get a used AS EQ1 for the sub, and that only takes RCA inputs (I am not sure if I will ultimately get it yet).
> 
> 
> Now you said PBK, I know PBK, and my understanding is that ARC has everything what PBK has and more, i.e., if you use ARC, you do not need to use PBK. Correct me if I am wrong, and at this point I am willing to try anything reasonable, and that is one of the reason for trying to get the AS EQ1. If PBK can fix it, I will buy it.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



I should have asked you about PBK sooner, just assumed you had it with the investment you made in your system.


PBK +ARC would definitely help more than just ARC alone... plus PBK is designed for your sub. PBK is low frequency specific with dedicated corrections/filters that are stored in your sub. It will significantly flatten your subs response prior to running ARC. You need to run PBK first, then run ARC after you've loaded the PBK corrections to the sub.


PBK will help ARC do a better job with the overall presentation. ARC is a more powerful correction process, but ARC does not necessarily eliminate the need for PBK.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22843589
> 
> 
> I should have asked you about PBK sooner, just assumed you had it with the investment you made in your system.
> 
> 
> PBK +ARC would definitely help more than just ARC alone... plus PBK is designed for your sub. PBK is low frequency specific with dedicated corrections/filters that are stored in your sub. It will significantly flatten your subs response prior to running ARC. You need to run PBK first, then run ARC after you've loaded the PBK corrections to the sub.
> 
> 
> PBK will help ARC do a better job with the overall presentation. ARC is a more powerful correction process, but ARC does not necessarily eliminate the need for PBK.



OK. I have been asking for so long and complaining about the sound, but no body ever said anything like that, not even Anthem Support (they know me on first name basis). I have even sent my D2v for warranty repair (they did not find anything wrong). I firmly believed in what I said; ARC has what PBK does, I am sure even Anthem support said that.


I can get PBK; now the question is, if I can get the AS EQ1, then should I still get PBK, or not get PBK, or not get AS EQ1 (I want best possible sound, without much compromise with decor, i.e. moving sub in front of the fire place).


Thanks.


----------



## jo5507




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22843958
> 
> 
> OK. I have been asking for so long and complaining about the sound, but no body ever said anything like that, not even Anthem Support (they know me on first name basis). I have even sent my D2v for warranty repair (they did not find anything wrong). I firmly believed in what I said; ARC has what PBK does, I am sure even Anthem support said that.
> 
> 
> I can get PBK; now the question is, if I can get the AS EQ1, then should I still get PBK, or not get PBK, or not get AS EQ1 (I want best possible sound, without much compromise with decor, i.e. moving sub in front of the fire place).
> 
> 
> Thanks.



If you have a serious null at your listening position then no amount of EQ will give a satisfactory solution. Have you tried moving the sub to see if that is in fact the root cause? I know you don't want to or can't move it permanently but until you rule out placement as the main culprit, it seems pointless to try more correction add-on's. Apologies if this has already been discussed. I know moving it has been suggested before but don't recall if you have actually tried it.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22843958
> 
> 
> OK. I have been asking for so long and complaining about the sound, but no body ever said anything like that, not even Anthem Support (they know me on first name basis). I have even sent my D2v for warranty repair (they did not find anything wrong). I firmly believed in what I said; ARC has what PBK does, I am sure even Anthem support said that.
> 
> 
> I can get PBK; now the question is, if I can get the AS EQ1, then should I still get PBK, or not get PBK, or not get AS EQ1 (I want best possible sound, without much compromise with decor, i.e. moving sub in front of the fire place).
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Sorry man, I just started watching this forum about a month ago when I got my AVM 50v. It kills me that you are struggling to get satisfactory sound with such high quality equipment.


ARC will do what PBK does, but look at it this way. Without PBK, ARC is trying to correct the worst-possible scenario for sub response. With PBK, you get the benefit of TWO corrections. PBK will flatten the response as much as it can, then ARC will take that response and massage it a bit more. Both systems will only correct so much. So starting from a better response, gives ARC a much better canvas to paint with.


I don't know much about AS EQ1, but PBK is designed for your sub, and is arguably one of the best bass EQ systems out there, plus it's cheap. Since Anthem tech support know you by name, I would start there and see if they have a sample kit they can send you to try.


Meanwhile, can you post some pics of your listening room so we can see your setup?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22844149
> 
> 
> Sorry man, I just started watching this forum about a month ago when I got my AVM 50v. It kills me that you are struggling to get satisfactory sound with such high quality equipment.
> 
> 
> ARC will do what PBK does, but look at it this way. Without PBK, ARC is trying to correct the worst-possible scenario for sub response. With PBK, you get the benefit of TWO corrections. PBK will flatten the response as much as it can, then ARC will take that response and massage it a bit more. Both systems will only correct so much. So starting from a better response, gives ARC a much better canvas to paint with.
> 
> 
> I don't know much about AS EQ1, but PBK is designed for your sub, and is arguably one of the best bass EQ systems out there, plus it's cheap. Since Anthem tech support know you by name, I would start there and see if they have a sample kit they can send you to try.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, can you post some pics of your listening room so we can see your setup?



Several people with problem sub curves have gotten good results with PBK and that's great for a problem but I'm in the camp that if you can do it with ARC only then that's the best route. I don't like to have to process the signal twice if it's not necessary.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22844271
> 
> 
> Several people with problem sub curves have gotten good results with PBK and that's great for a problem but I'm in the camp that if you can do it with ARC only then that's the best route. I don't like to have to process the signal twice if it's not necessary.



In most cases, I would agree that less processing is better - and used to be squarely in that camp with you. Modern EQ though, when properly applied as it is in ARC and PBK, should not degrade the signal to any noticeable extent, while providing a big improvement in frequency response and musical clarity. Layering EQ's, such as PBK and ARC, allows the full use of the processing power in both programs culminating in a better end result in most cases.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22843504
> 
> 
> "thestewman":
> 
> 
> Thank you for your attention; but this is a separate issue in a sense that I am trying to get a used AS EQ1 for the sub, and that only takes RCA inputs (I am not sure if I will ultimately get it yet).
> 
> 
> Now you said PBK, I know PBK, and my understanding is that ARC has everything what PBK has and more, i.e., if you use ARC, you do not need to use PBK. Correct me if I am wrong, and at this point I am willing to try anything reasonable, and that is one of the reason for trying to get the AS EQ1. If PBK can fix it, I will buy it.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22843958
> 
> 
> OK. I have been asking for so long and complaining about the sound, but no body ever said anything like that, not even Anthem Support (they know me on first name basis). I have even sent my D2v for warranty repair (they did not find anything wrong). I firmly believed in what I said; ARC has what PBK does, I am sure even Anthem support said that.
> 
> 
> I can get PBK; now the question is, if I can get the AS EQ1, then should I still get PBK, or not get PBK, or not get AS EQ1 (I want best possible sound, without much compromise with decor, i.e. moving sub in front of the fire place).
> 
> 
> Thanks.



There have been numerous suggestions on how to fix your problem. From all it looks like apparently there is nothing wrong with your gear, The D2 works correctly, the speakers are all working correctly.

When you look at the graphs presented by ARC the only thing that looks bad is the sub response.

Compare these two graphs from subs made by Paradigm. Yours is the left and the the right hand graph is my sub's PBK result in an average room opening in the rear into another room and no bass traps etc.

And like you because of the sub's size and weight it is in the right corner but positioned to best eliminate the dips and peaks at 40-60hz..

Now look at My ARC graph which is the lower graph after PBK


If you can make your sub graph, and you have the sub to do it, replicate mine, I think your system will come alive.

You need output from 80-120Hz

*Try this first and then listen to your system to see if it improves.

Go to the ARC targets and raise the sub cutoff to 120 in both Music and Movie windows

Recalculate and upload the ARC results to the D2. Then listen to the system
*


----------



## jo5507

As I said earlier, EQ will not fix the huge dip centered at 70Hz. If it's not related to incorrect measurement issues, then he has a null at the listening area.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jo5507*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22844836
> 
> 
> As I said earlier, EQ will not fix the huge dip centered at 70Hz. If it's not related to incorrect measurement issues, then he has a null at the listening area.



It won't fix it, but the combo of PBK and ARC will certainly help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It's hard to tell. A Cancellation Null is a tricky thing -- assuming that's what this is (we can't really tell without seeing what happens if the sub is moved around).


Consider a bucket with the bottom all rusted out. The faster you pour water into it, the more simply drops out the bottom. To fill the bucket you have to overwhelm that hole with so much water flow that it can't drop out the bottom fast enough. Similarly you can pump a lot of energy into a Sub suffering a Cancellation Null only to have it simply get cancelled out! At some point you reach the limit of what the Sub's amp and cone motor can tolerate. That's why ARC doesn't try to use more than +6dB boost to fill a dip. Adding PBK will have TWO systems, each with a +6dB protection limit for boosts, but both still just sending energy to the *SAME* Sub amp and cone motor.


This Sub measures well on either side of the dip, and thus much of the dip could likely be filled by ARC alone with a combination of lowering Room Gain and manually shifting the Subwoofer's ARC Cutoff Target frequency to the high frequency side of that dip (thus forcing ARC to try to deal with the dip instead of avoiding it).


Nevertheless, the presence of the dip in this key frequency range for bass performance indicates the Sub is not coupling well to the room in its current position and given the current ability of the room setup to attenuated bass reflections.


Quick Measure results with the Sub moved around would tell if this really is a coupling problem (likely) or if the Sub's electronics or driver are just broken through that frequency range (unlikely).


It's also not clear to me that the perceived audio problem in the room is truly due to the Sub response. The Sub issue stands out, and needs to be corrected, but it may be just one factor in the perception of poor audio in that room.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Bob


Did you notice in the charts I just posted above the similarity in the curves before any EQ with the peaks and dips ?


Since both his sub on the left chart and mine on the right are made by Paradigm maybe it is characteristic of their designs


----------



## studlygoorite

By the way, nice sub graph Stew.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22843958
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22843589
> 
> 
> I should have asked you about PBK sooner, just assumed you had it with the investment you made in your system.
> 
> 
> PBK +ARC would definitely help more than just ARC alone... plus PBK is designed for your sub. PBK is low frequency specific with dedicated corrections/filters that are stored in your sub. It will significantly flatten your subs response prior to running ARC. You need to run PBK first, then run ARC after you've loaded the PBK corrections to the sub.
> 
> 
> PBK will help ARC do a better job with the overall presentation. ARC is a more powerful correction process, but ARC does not necessarily eliminate the need for PBK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK. I have been asking for so long and complaining about the sound, but no body ever said anything like that, not even Anthem Support (they know me on first name basis). I have even sent my D2v for warranty repair (they did not find anything wrong). I firmly believed in what I said; ARC has what PBK does, I am sure even Anthem support said that.
> 
> 
> I can get PBK; now the question is, if I can get the AS EQ1, then should I still get PBK, or not get PBK, or not get AS EQ1 (I want best possible sound, without much compromise with decor, i.e. moving sub in front of the fire place).
> 
> 
> Thanks.
Click to expand...

 

AS-EQ1 = PBK kit functionality + Phase Correction of up to 2 subs. The phase correction goes includes the mains/subs crossover region, which is critical.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22845303
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Did you notice in the charts I just posted above the similarity in the curves before any EQ with the peaks and dips ?
> 
> 
> Since both his sub on the left chart and mine on the right are made by Paradigm maybe it is characteristic of their designs



I doubt it. Standing wave cancellation nulls in that frequency range simply require similar room geometry, and a Sub placement that couples in to that.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22844530
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22844271
> 
> 
> Several people with problem sub curves have gotten good results with PBK and that's great for a problem but I'm in the camp that if you can do it with ARC only then that's the best route. I don't like to have to process the signal twice if it's not necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In most cases, I would agree that less processing is better - and used to be squarely in that camp with you. Modern EQ though, when properly applied as it is in ARC and PBK, should not degrade the signal to any noticeable extent, while providing a big improvement in frequency response and musical clarity. Layering EQ's, such as PBK and ARC, allows the full use of the processing power in both programs culminating in a better end result in most cases.
Click to expand...

 

Once the PBK  handles the null at 70Hz or so, then ARC will see a smooth sub response from 20Hz to 300Hz and then raise the sub cutoffs to the 120Hz max.

 

It will also change the cutoffs of the mains and surrounds in light of the extended load the sub is now handling.


----------



## jo5507




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750#post_22847635
> 
> 
> Once the PBK  handles the null at 70Hz or so, then ARC will see a smooth sub response from 20Hz to 300Hz and then raise the sub cutoffs to the 120Hz max.
> 
> 
> It will also change the cutoffs of the mains and surrounds in light of the extended load the sub is now handling.


The key element is determining if this is a null and cancellation is occurring due to room nodes. PBK or other forms of EQ will not address this. Trying to raise that dip by applying more energy to that frequency band will just stress the amp as Bob pointed out. The cancellation will continue to exist. In addition, you will find that the bass level outside of the listening /measurement area where the null is reduced or eliminated, will be excessive and perhaps overpowering, extending into other parts of the house.

Moving the sub and listening/measuring to test this is the only way to quickly determine this.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jo5507*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22847928
> 
> 
> The cancellation will continue to exist. In addition, you will find that the bass level outside of the listening /measurement area where the null is reduced or eliminated, will be excessive and perhaps overpowering, extending into other parts of the house.
> 
> Moving the sub and listening/measuring to test this is the only way to quickly determine this.



Agreed!


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39630#post_22822316
> 
> 
> ^ No word here. Not even that there is a confirmed problem.
> 
> --Bob



Funny must be not too many people have up graded. I still have to dual boot and arc is the only offender.


Regards


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22724265
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking of installing a windows 7 vm in windows 8 and running arc thru vm just as a test if it is usb-com interface or the OS itself. Curious if it even possible to interface that way.
> 
> 
> Regards



Confirm it locks up win 8 hard so no virtual machine down grade (and set exe to comp mode produces 8's results) ..... that was a no go for compatibility. It is a strange Canadian magic app. Plz a win 8 version.


Best Regards


Edit: If it comes down to a mic I am still upgrading


----------



## studlygoorite

I just upgraded amps on my mains to Anthem M1s, twice the power, should I redo ARC?


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750_50#post_22847635
> 
> 
> Once the PBK  handles the null at 70Hz or so, then ARC will see a smooth sub response from 20Hz to 300Hz and then raise the sub cutoffs to the 120Hz max.
> 
> 
> It will also change the cutoffs of the mains and surrounds in light of the extended load the sub is now handling.


This is really for paradigm25,

70hz == 16ft sound wave length == 8ft 1/2 wave length.

If you happen to have a room with multiple of that length than you have to put some sound treatment which could be some furniture in the right places.

Also the thing that have worked best for me to find a place where the sub is not at the same distance from the room boundaries (floor and side walls) like 2ft, 3ft, 4ft


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22849350
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39750_50#post_22847635
> 
> 
> Once the PBK  handles the null at 70Hz or so, then ARC will see a smooth sub response from 20Hz to 300Hz and then raise the sub cutoffs to the 120Hz max.
> 
> 
> It will also change the cutoffs of the mains and surrounds in light of the extended load the sub is now handling.
> 
> 
> 
> This is really for paradigm25,
> 
> 70hz == 16ft sound wave length == 8ft 1/2 wave length.
> 
> If you happen to have a room with multiple of that length than you have to put some sound treatment which could be some furniture in the right places.
> 
> Also the thing that have worked best for me to find a place where the sub is not at the same distance from the room boundaries (floor and side walls) like 2ft, 3ft, 4ft
Click to expand...

Well put Tranle  ...


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22849350
> 
> 
> This is really for paradigm25,
> 
> 70hz == 16ft sound wave length == 8ft 1/2 wave length.
> 
> If you happen to have a room with multiple of that length than you have to put some sound treatment which could be some furniture in the right places.
> 
> Also the thing that have worked best for me to find a place where the sub is not at the same distance from the room boundaries (floor and side walls) like 2ft, 3ft, 4ft



I find you can key in the paradigm servo 15 with a subduded and it is not a boom box it is the way it should be. I have used the spl for distance.


Regards


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22849337
> 
> 
> I just upgraded amps on my mains to Anthem M1s, twice the power, should I redo ARC?


Sure. The gains may vary somewhat from what you had before which will affect the volume trims. There may be more subtle, frequency related response differences as well. Might as well give ARC a chance to work with the correct speaker output, even though the changes may be minimal.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite

Thanks Bob


----------



## Emosewa09

The great thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. The bad thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. So, when someone like me is considering buying one of these products, it is next to impossible to plough through 1,327 pages. So, with an apology, I will post two basic questions. I assume they have been covered, but a search of this thread did not yield any clear results.


I am seriously considering a purchase of either the AVM 50v or the D2v. My current system includes Magnepan 20.1s, a Lexicon MC12HD, and a Linn LP-12, to name a few components. The Anthem would replace the now ancient Lexicon.


(1) I understand that the price difference between the two anthem units is $2,500. But the units are nearly identical -- the only differences are 24/192 upsampling on all channels with any input on the D2v, but I'm not certain what that means. If the 50v doesn't do that, what does it do, and is the difference on the D2v audible? The D2v has premium ADCs and DACs, but again, I wonder if the difference is actually audible. And the D2v has premium parts in analog audio sections. Maybe that difference would be audible if playing LPs using the direct mode, but I wonder.


If any of the experts who have considerable experience with both units can comment, I would greatly appreciate it.


(The other difference is that the cheaper 50v has a silver face plate, which i prefer, but that option is not available on the more expensive D2v.)


(2) I also looked at other manufacturers and other pre-pros with the latest and greatest version of Audyssey. My first assumption was that Audyssey is probably superior. But there is a thread that covers that question, and my assumption may be wrong? I do have two Martin Logan subwoofers, and Audyssey specifically can address two subs, but ARC does not. But in my case it may not matter, as i have two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the two subs. I assume I could continue to use those units, and would EQ the subs first with the Velodyne units, and then use ARC for the whole system.


Anyway, for those who have used or heard both the top of the line Audyssey and the ARC, which do you perfer, and why?


Many thanks in advance for your responses.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22850074
> 
> 
> The great thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. The bad thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. So, when someone like me is considering buying one of these products, it is next to impossible to plough through 1,327 pages. So, with an apology, I will post two basic questions. I assume they have been covered, but a search of this thread did not yield any clear results.
> 
> 
> I am seriously considering a purchase of either the AVM 50v or the D2v. My current system includes Magnepan 20.1s, a Lexicon MC12HD, and a Linn LP-12, to name a few components. The Anthem would replace the now ancient Lexicon.
> 
> 
> (1) I understand that the price difference between the two anthem units is $2,500. But the units are nearly identical -- the only differences are 24/192 upsampling on all channels with any input on the D2v, but I'm not certain what that means. If the 50v doesn't do that, what does it do, and is the difference on the D2v audible? The D2v has premium ADCs and DACs, but again, I wonder if the difference is actually audible. And the D2v has premium parts in analog audio sections. Maybe that difference would be audible if playing LPs using the direct mode, but I wonder.
> 
> 
> If any of the experts who have considerable experience with both units can comment, I would greatly appreciate it.
> 
> 
> (The other difference is that the cheaper 50v has a silver face plate, which i prefer, but that option is not available on the more expensive D2v.)
> 
> 
> (2) I also looked at other manufacturers and other pre-pros with the latest and greatest version of Audyssey. My first assumption was that Audyssey is probably superior. But there is a thread that covers that question, and my assumption may be wrong? I do have two Martin Logan subwoofers, and Audyssey specifically can address two subs, but ARC does not. But in my case it may not matter, as i have two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the two subs. I assume I could continue to use those units, and would EQ the subs first with the Velodyne units, and then use ARC for the whole system.
> 
> 
> Anyway, for those who have used or heard both the top of the line Audyssey and the ARC, which do you perfer, and why?
> 
> 
> Many thanks in advance for your responses.



I have experience with both. And the short version is , that audessey sets at Big fingerprint at the sound. And ARC dosent. The dealbreaker is that audessey is take it or leave it. In ARC you Can set a max frekvens for corretion.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22850074
> 
> 
> The great thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. The bad thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. So, when someone like me is considering buying one of these products, it is next to impossible to plough through 1,327 pages. So, with an apology, I will post two basic questions. I assume they have been covered, but a search of this thread did not yield any clear results.
> 
> 
> I am seriously considering a purchase of either the AVM 50v or the D2v. My current system includes Magnepan 20.1s, a Lexicon MC12HD, and a Linn LP-12, to name a few components. The Anthem would replace the now ancient Lexicon.
> 
> 
> (1) I understand that the price difference between the two anthem units is $2,500. But the units are nearly identical -- the only differences are 24/192 upsampling on all channels with any input on the D2v, but I'm not certain what that means. If the 50v doesn't do that, what does it do, and is the difference on the D2v audible? The D2v has premium ADCs and DACs, but again, I wonder if the difference is actually audible. And the D2v has premium parts in analog audio sections. Maybe that difference would be audible if playing LPs using the direct mode, but I wonder.
> 
> 
> If any of the experts who have considerable experience with both units can comment, I would greatly appreciate it.
> 
> 
> (The other difference is that the cheaper 50v has a silver face plate, which i prefer, but that option is not available on the more expensive D2v.)
> 
> 
> (2) I also looked at other manufacturers and other pre-pros with the latest and greatest version of Audyssey. My first assumption was that Audyssey is probably superior. But there is a thread that covers that question, and my assumption may be wrong? I do have two Martin Logan subwoofers, and Audyssey specifically can address two subs, but ARC does not. But in my case it may not matter, as i have two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the two subs. I assume I could continue to use those units, and would EQ the subs first with the Velodyne units, and then use ARC for the whole system.
> 
> 
> Anyway, for those who have used or heard both the top of the line Audyssey and the ARC, which do you perfer, and why?
> 
> 
> Many thanks in advance for your responses.



Tell us a bit more. What will be the majority of the use ? Home Theater ? Music,

Your Music sources?

You said nothing about multi channell speakers.


----------



## paradigm25

Thank you guys for all of the support and info you all have provided. It's just unbelievable support.


Just to update; I am trying to get the AS Eq1, and if I can get that then I will try to see how much it helps, and if it does not then I will get PBK. I do not think I need to apply both, correct me if I am wrong.


As many have said to try to move the sub; that is just not possible, so I will have to depend on EQ or else at this point. So I will be back in few days if I get my AS EQ1.


Thanks.


----------



## bigdaddy999

Hi all. I have a compatibility problem, I think, between a Panny BD85K blu-ray and an Anthem D2 I just picked up. Prior rig was AVM20, so I ran HDMI to the TV directly. Now I want to use the BD player through the D2, but when I switch to that input, I can see the BD menu screen for about 1/2 second, then it goes blank. Same thing using different HDMI cables.


I THINK I'm running 1.33 on the D2, but not positive (how do I determine that?).


Is this a fixable situation?


Thanks.


----------



## obie_fl

You can check the firmware version by pressing the status button on the front panel or remote, you need to cycle through the various status screens to get there, it also shows when you first power up First things first do you get the on screen menus? Have you set the subject input to the desired resolution?


----------



## Emosewa09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22850074
> 
> 
> I am seriously considering a purchase of either the AVM 50v or the D2v.
> 
> 
> (1) I understand that the price difference between the two anthem units is $2,500. But the units are nearly identical -- the only differences are 24/192 upsampling on all channels with any input on the D2v, but I'm not certain what that means. If the 50v doesn't do that, what does it do, and is the difference on the D2v audible? The D2v has premium ADCs and DACs, but again, I wonder if the difference is actually audible. And the D2v has premium parts in analog audio sections. Maybe that difference would be audible if playing LPs using the direct mode, but I wonder.
> 
> 
> If any of the experts who have considerable experience with both units can comment, I would greatly appreciate it.
> 
> 
> (2) I also looked at other manufacturers and other pre-pros with the latest and greatest version of Audyssey. My first assumption was that Audyssey is probably superior. But there is a thread that covers that question, and my assumption may be wrong? I do have two Martin Logan subwoofers, and Audyssey specifically can address two subs, but ARC does not. But in my case it may not matter, as i have two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the two subs. I assume I could continue to use those units, and would EQ the subs first with the Velodyne units, and then use ARC for the whole system.
> 
> 
> Anyway, for those who have used or heard both the top of the line Audyssey and the ARC, which do you perfer, and why?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22850302
> 
> 
> Tell us a bit more. What will be the majority of the use ? Home Theater ? Music,
> 
> Your Music sources?
> 
> You said nothing about multi channell speakers.




MANY THANKS for your help. Music half the time, and most of that is two channel stereo. Mostly jazz with some classical. The Lexicon does a good job with that using L7 Music. Music sources are LPs, SACDs and CDs. For the LPs use a Linn Sondek LP12 with MC cartridge and Linn phono preamp. The other half of the time I watch TV, I assume most of that is 5.1, and films on Blu-Ray.


My Multichannel system consists of 9 speakers. Fronts are Magnepan 20.1; center and sides are Magnepan; rears are JSE Model 2. Two Martin Logan subs. So that would be 7.1. Main amp is a Theta Dreadnaught. Replacing a Lexicon MC12HD pre-pro processor. 65" Panasonic 3D Plasma and a JVC projector with 110" screen.


Again, would like to have your opinions as to whether I'll hear an audible difference if I get the D2v, and whether ARC is as good as Audyssey. Would use ARC with two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the subs, presuming Velodyne EQ first then ARC


If you have any other recommendations for pre-pros for a surround system instead of Anthem, that would be great info as well. Was looking at the usual choices -- the top of the line from Marantz, Onkyo, Denon, etc. They all include the top of the line of Audyssey. Anthem appears to be a step up over all of them.


MANY THANKS for all your help and advice


----------



## bigdaddy999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22850615
> 
> 
> You can check the firmware version by pressing the status button on the front panel or remote, you need to cycle through the various status screens to get there, it also shows when you first power up First things first do you get the on screen menus? Have you set the subject input to the desired resolution?



Thanks. Confirmed v1.33 on the D2.


I can get any other outputs from the D2 (on-screen menus and HDMI input from the FIOS cable box) without any problems. My NAD DVD via component>HDMI also works. All connections from the panny BD85K blu-ray were to be HDMI-in, to HDMI out for the BD player, but that's the one that doesn't appear correctly on the screen.


Thanks..


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22850822
> 
> 
> 
> MANY THANKS for your help. Music half the time, and most of that is two channel stereo. Mostly jazz with some classical. The Lexicon does a good job with that using L7 Music. Music sources are LPs, SACDs and CDs. For the LPs use a Linn Sondek LP12 with MC cartridge and Linn phono preamp. The other half of the time I watch TV, I assume most of that is 5.1, and films on Blu-Ray.
> 
> 
> My Multichannel system consists of 9 speakers. Fronts are Magnepan 20.1; center and sides are Magnepan; rears are JSE Model 2. Two Martin Logan subs. So that would be 7.1. Main amp is a Theta Dreadnaught. Replacing a Lexicon MC12HD pre-pro processor. 65" Panasonic 3D Plasma and a JVC projector with 110" screen.
> 
> 
> Again, would like to have your opinions as to whether I'll hear an audible difference if I get the D2v, and whether ARC is as good as Audyssey. Would use ARC with two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the subs, presuming Velodyne EQ first then ARC
> 
> 
> If you have any other recommendations for pre-pros for a surround system instead of Anthem, that would be great info as well. Was looking at the usual choices -- the top of the line from Marantz, Onkyo, Denon, etc. They all include the top of the line of Audyssey. Anthem appears to be a step up over all of them.
> 
> 
> MANY THANKS for all your help and advice



Have you outgrown the HDMI inputs on the Lexicon? Are there some features you are currently lacking? If not, why retire it? The Anthems also have an ancient user interface, with much more annoyances if you ask me.


I used to have an RV-8 (like an MC-8 + amp) and miss Logic7 sometimes, but that was without HD audio so the 50v was a real upgrade. Music sounded much better even before I turned on ARC! However I didn't have a smart sub with any EQ and most of the improvement is in the bass. Given that you are much better equipped in the sub department with EQ and have planar speakers you might not want ARC at all.


My main music system is totally separate so I did not bother with the D2v, but in your case I think you would benefit from the tweaks. The upsampling usually makes things sound a bit sweeter, but can depend on a person's preference and the source material (reason it is selectable on some Cary players). If you're going to only have one preamp in the house might as well get the best, at your level. I would guess that you will be making a sideways step, rather than a clear upgrade, but I am assuming the MC12HD is much better than the MC8. Maybe Dr Hankz will comment.


----------



## wierzbowski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wierzbowski*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39660#post_22822393
> 
> 
> I have searched this thread, and read a lot of posts, but didn't see any discussion of my specific issue. If I overlooked it, my apologies.
> 
> 
> I just updated my 50v to firmware version 3.09 (public release, not a beta/test version). Afterwards, DTS-HD MA and DTS-HD HR bitstreams no longer produce any audio output. I tried multiple discs in multiple players (Oppo BDP-80 and Toshiba HD-A35). The processor is detecting the correct bitstream format and displays it on front panel and the OSD. Lossy DTS works fine, as does Dolby TrueHD, DD+, and DD. Having the player decode the HD bitstream and send LPCM works fine also.
> 
> 
> I have checked and double-checked my settings (which were successfully reloaded after the firmware upgrade), and I don't see anything amiss.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this issue? I'm open to suggestions.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> W



Incidentally, Anthem recommended updating to firmware version 3.09c and after doing so my DTS-HD bitstream problem was fixed.


W


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22850822
> 
> 
> 
> MANY THANKS for your help. Music half the time, and most of that is two channel stereo. Mostly jazz with some classical. The Lexicon does a good job with that using L7 Music. Music sources are LPs, SACDs and CDs. For the LPs use a Linn Sondek LP12 with MC cartridge and Linn phono preamp. The other half of the time I watch TV, I assume most of that is 5.1, and films on Blu-Ray.
> 
> 
> My Multichannel system consists of 9 speakers. Fronts are Magnepan 20.1; center and sides are Magnepan; rears are JSE Model 2. Two Martin Logan subs. So that would be 7.1. Main amp is a Theta Dreadnaught. Replacing a Lexicon MC12HD pre-pro processor. 65" Panasonic 3D Plasma and a JVC projector with 110" screen.
> 
> 
> Again, would like to have your opinions as to whether I'll hear an audible difference if I get the D2v, and whether ARC is as good as Audyssey. Would use ARC with two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the subs, presuming Velodyne EQ first then ARC
> 
> 
> If you have any other recommendations for pre-pros for a surround system instead of Anthem, that would be great info as well. Was looking at the usual choices -- the top of the line from Marantz, Onkyo, Denon, etc. They all include the top of the line of Audyssey. Anthem appears to be a step up over all of them.
> 
> 
> MANY THANKS for all your help and advice



I struggled with the same question and ended up getting the 50v. The extra $2500 wasn't worth it to me to get the upsampling since I knew I would be going to some type of Analog Direct scenario through a music server solution (testing Pure Music at the moment) and most of them will upsample. Pure Music has 64bit floating something-or-other, with upsampling to 192khz. I didn't see the need to upsample HDMI since thats the only other input type I use.


----------



## paradigm25

Bob:


I tried to Teach the Menu command from my D2v to Harmony 900, but it would just not Learn that command, that way I can move the D2v to another location.


Can Harmony 900 be used to go in to Menu of D2v.


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22852609
> 
> 
> Bob:
> 
> 
> I tried to Teach the Menu command from my D2v to Harmony 900, but it would just not Learn that command, that way I can move the D2v to another location.
> 
> 
> Can Harmony 900 be used to go in to Menu of D2v.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



That's likely because that command is already in the Harmony definition database entry for the D2v. It's just not called Menu. It's called Sub/LFE, which is what that button does if you press and release it rather than press and hold it to bring up the on-screen Setup menu.


Use Harmony's pre-recorded definition for the Sub/LFE button as that one is specially coded to do something different when you press and hold.


You'll also find the numerical digits are in their definition using the names for the special functions they do other than just being digits. So the 9 button is in there as a pre-defined code. It just happens to be named ToneBypass instead of 9.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22850074
> 
> 
> The great thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. The bad thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. So, when someone like me is considering buying one of these products, it is next to impossible to plough through 1,327 pages. So, with an apology, I will post two basic questions. I assume they have been covered, but a search of this thread did not yield any clear results.
> 
> 
> I am seriously considering a purchase of either the AVM 50v or the D2v. My current system includes Magnepan 20.1s, a Lexicon MC12HD, and a Linn LP-12, to name a few components. The Anthem would replace the now ancient Lexicon.
> 
> 
> (1) I understand that the price difference between the two anthem units is $2,500. But the units are nearly identical -- the only differences are 24/192 upsampling on all channels with any input on the D2v, but I'm not certain what that means. If the 50v doesn't do that, what does it do, and is the difference on the D2v audible? The D2v has premium ADCs and DACs, but again, I wonder if the difference is actually audible. And the D2v has premium parts in analog audio sections. Maybe that difference would be audible if playing LPs using the direct mode, but I wonder.
> 
> 
> If any of the experts who have considerable experience with both units can comment, I would greatly appreciate it.
> 
> 
> (The other difference is that the cheaper 50v has a silver face plate, which i prefer, but that option is not available on the more expensive D2v.)
> 
> 
> (2) I also looked at other manufacturers and other pre-pros with the latest and greatest version of Audyssey. My first assumption was that Audyssey is probably superior. But there is a thread that covers that question, and my assumption may be wrong? I do have two Martin Logan subwoofers, and Audyssey specifically can address two subs, but ARC does not. But in my case it may not matter, as i have two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the two subs. I assume I could continue to use those units, and would EQ the subs first with the Velodyne units, and then use ARC for the whole system.
> 
> 
> Anyway, for those who have used or heard both the top of the line Audyssey and the ARC, which do you perfer, and why?
> 
> 
> Many thanks in advance for your responses.



Yes, you can handle your two subs as planned: SMS-1 setup first and then your ARC Measurement run with both subs powered.


The thing you need to know about the D2v is that MOST of the audio differences are in the design and layout of the analog audio board and the selection of components. These differences do not really show up as feature differences.


The D2v is just a more "exotic" analog audio circuit design.


We've had a fair number of people who've posted here comparing the original AVM 50 vs. the original D2, and the newer AVM 50v vs. the newer D2v. Some decided to go with the AVM unit purely to save the money -- perhaps to apply to other portions of their system. The AVM models are no slouch for audio, and so this is not surprising.


But as best I can recall, every such case -- even the ones who ended up choosing the AVM -- agreed the D2 and D2v audio was superior. Enough so that they could actually hear the improvement in their own equipment setup and listening room.


Keep in mind this is not a comparison that's trivial to do. You have to have each unit long enough to set up ARC for both for example. But there are some folks posting here who've done that and the consensus really is that the D2v sounds better.


But reaching for that extra step up in audio is spendy.


My recommendation continues to be that if you can afford the D2v that's the way to go. You won't regret it now, or when you upgrade other portions of your system down the road. But if the price is a stretch for you, get the AVM 50v and be happy. You've got one heck of a good sounding pre-amp processor.


NOTE: The VIDEO solution is identical in the AVM 50v and D2v. The difference between them is audio -- and the silver face plate available for the AVM 50v vs. the rack-mount wing ears available for the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22852704
> 
> 
> That's likely because that command is already in the Harmony definition database entry for the D2v. It's just not called Menu. It's called Sub/LFE, which is what that button does if you press and release it rather than press and hold it to bring up the on-screen Setup menu.
> 
> 
> Use Harmony's pre-recorded definition for the Sub/LFE button as that one is specially coded to do something different when you press and hold.
> 
> 
> You'll also find the numerical digits are in their definition using the names for the special functions they do other than just being digits. So the 9 button is in there as a pre-defined code. It just happens to be named ToneBypass instead of 9.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. What will we do without you.


----------



## bigdaddy999

Hello. I need some help with what I am hoping is a D2 configuration issue. I bought this unit off Audiogon and the audio is fine, but I'm having issues with high def video.


Equipment::

D2

Fios cable box (HDMI to D2)

Panasonic Blu-ray BD85K (HDMI to D2 and/or HDMI plus optical for audio - same difference)

NAD DVD (component to D2 plus coax-digital audio) - this works fine, I think

TV: Sony XBR9 (fed by single HDMI from the D2) - full hd 16x9 box - 1080i&p capable



The D2 seems to have problems outputting an HDMI high def image of any kind. And, the image I do get off the FIOS box is letter-box shaped, but stretched, almost like it's for a different TV, full width image, but narrow and non-HD (black bars top/bottom). Fooling with the Sony "width" doesn't change anything, as fundamentally I'm not getting HD. Info on the TV shows a 480i SD image being sent from the D2.


Sometimes, I get the message "Need HDCP Monitor" and the D2 just loops in startup - flashes the image, or a blue screen, and sometimes a full-screen of magenta color. Restarting or sometimes switching inputs changes that. HDMI Video can drop out after a while, with the message "HDMI Video Muted Need HDCP Monitor". If I have the main video setting at 1920/1080p/60 in configuration and then restart the D2 with the cable box on, it keeps flashing the starting up message and then goes back to DolbyD like it should (based on the channel selected).


I'm using Video settings as follows:

D2: HDMI preferred, and get same results whether Video settings are on "Auto" or not. I can get a stretched image at 720p type settings, but nothing for "1080" or 1920/1080 i or P. Just blank screen, not even the setup screen will appear on this latter setting.


HDMI cables are either 6 or 10', and are from Monoprice (Redmere) and/or other brands of HDMI that I've picked up, none of them junk, and all of them work in other applications - just not with this D2.


I had an Anthem AVM20, so know my way around many of the configuration options of these things, but the D2 of course has more. I tried power cycling the D2 (switch in back), I've swapped HDMI cables, but nothing I can do gets me better than 720p out of the D2, and for the most part, just 480i.


I'm not happy. I could live with the BD player going straight to the TV if need be (have read panny's have issues), but obviously, I don't want to lose HD out of the FIOS box because of the D2.


Sound and ARC are working fine.


Any suggestions? Is this a configuration problem? Or is this likely a D2 problem?


THANK YOU FOR YOUR ASSISTANCE!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22850822
> 
> 
> MANY THANKS for your help. Music half the time, and most of that is two channel stereo. Mostly jazz with some classical. The Lexicon does a good job with that using L7 Music. Music sources are LPs, SACDs and CDs. For the LPs use a Linn Sondek LP12 with MC cartridge and Linn phono preamp. The other half of the time I watch TV, I assume most of that is 5.1, and films on Blu-Ray.
> 
> 
> My Multichannel system consists of 9 speakers. Fronts are Magnepan 20.1; center and sides are Magnepan; rears are JSE Model 2. Two Martin Logan subs. So that would be 7.1. Main amp is a Theta Dreadnaught. Replacing a Lexicon MC12HD pre-pro processor. 65" Panasonic 3D Plasma and a JVC projector with 110" screen.
> 
> 
> Again, would like to have your opinions as to whether I'll hear an audible difference if I get the D2v, and whether ARC is as good as Audyssey. Would use ARC with two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the subs, presuming Velodyne EQ first then ARC
> 
> 
> If you have any other recommendations for pre-pros for a surround system instead of Anthem, that would be great info as well. Was looking at the usual choices -- the top of the line from Marantz, Onkyo, Denon, etc. They all include the top of the line of Audyssey. Anthem appears to be a step up over all of them.
> 
> 
> MANY THANKS for all your help and advice


 

A more recent and ecellent review of the AVM50v is right here http://www.soundstagexperience.com/index.php/equipment-menu/388-anthem-avm50v-3d-audio-video-processor  . Though i had a 50v and now have the D2v, the difference between them was about $1500 and was affordable to me. But if it was $2500, i wouldn't have been able to justify it. The 50v sounded excellent but i wanted the D2v ....just to be in the club?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22853029
> 
> 
> Hello. I need some help with what I am hoping is a D2 configuration issue. I bought this unit off Audiogon and the audio is fine, but I'm having issues with high def video.
> 
> 
> Equipment::
> 
> D2
> 
> Fios cable box (HDMI to D2)
> 
> Panasonic Blu-ray BD85K (HDMI to D2 and/or HDMI plus optical for audio - same difference)
> 
> NAD DVD (component to D2 plus coax-digital audio) - this works fine, I think
> 
> TV: Sony XBR9 (fed by single HDMI from the D2) - full hd 16x9 box - 1080i&p capable
> 
> 
> 
> The D2 seems to have problems outputting an HDMI high def image of any kind. And, the image I do get off the FIOS box is letter-box shaped, but stretched, almost like it's for a different TV, full width image, but narrow and non-HD (black bars top/bottom). Fooling with the Sony "width" doesn't change anything, as fundamentally I'm not getting HD. Info on the TV shows a 480i SD image being sent from the D2.
> 
> 
> Sometimes, I get the message "Need HDCP Monitor" and the D2 just loops in startup - flashes the image, or a blue screen, and sometimes a full-screen of magenta color. Restarting or sometimes switching inputs changes that. HDMI Video can drop out after a while, with the message "HDMI Video Muted Need HDCP Monitor". If I have the main video setting at 1920/1080p/60 in configuration and then restart the D2 with the cable box on, it keeps flashing the starting up message and then goes back to DolbyD like it should (based on the channel selected).
> 
> 
> I'm using Video settings as follows:
> 
> D2: HDMI preferred, and get same results whether Video settings are on "Auto" or not. I can get a stretched image at 720p type settings, but nothing for "1080" or 1920/1080 i or P. Just blank screen, not even the setup screen will appear on this latter setting.
> 
> 
> HDMI cables are either 6 or 10', and are from Monoprice (Redmere) and/or other brands of HDMI that I've picked up, none of them junk, and all of them work in other applications - just not with this D2.
> 
> 
> I had an Anthem AVM20, so know my way around many of the configuration options of these things, but the D2 of course has more. I tried power cycling the D2 (switch in back), I've swapped HDMI cables, but nothing I can do gets me better than 720p out of the D2, and for the most part, just 480i.
> 
> 
> I'm not happy. I could live with the BD player going straight to the TV if need be (have read panny's have issues), but obviously, I don't want to lose HD out of the FIOS box because of the D2.
> 
> 
> Sound and ARC are working fine.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions? Is this a configuration problem? Or is this likely a D2 problem?
> 
> 
> THANK YOU FOR YOUR ASSISTANCE!



To Diagnose video problems, start by using the built-in video graphics generated by the D2. These are independent of any Source Device.


These would be the Setup menu itself, and also the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" button). The Video Source Adjust menu includes test patterns which you can use to confirm the video output to your TV.


So select an input Source in the D2 that has no video coming in (nothing connected or Source Device powered OFF), and see whether you can get stable video to your display at any HD output resolution using the Video Source Adjust menu test patterns. If not, go into Setup > Video Configuration and work through the possibilities.


What you are reporting sounds like HDMI cabling problems, but it's unclear whether they are happening on the input side or the output side. This test will help you check that the output side is working.


Since you bought a used unit, you would be well advised to start fresh by going into Setup and Reloading Factory Defaults. Then power cycle the D2.


Make sure your HDMI plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets with nothing (e.g., cable weight) tugging them in any direction. Make sure the HDMI input you are using on your TV is intended for connection to a DVD Player or Set Top Box, as opposed to connection to a computer.


Also keep in mind that changes you make in Setup > Video Out Configuration do not take effect immediately. You need to exit the menu and CONFIRM you really want to make these latest changes on the way out. I.e., use the Arrow buttons to change the No to Yes and Select the Yes.



If you can get the video output side working solidly as evidenced by the D2's own graphics, then any continuing problem you have when trying to use a Source Device must be on the Input side. The most likely is an HDMI cabling problem.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22850822
> 
> 
> 
> MANY THANKS for your help. Music half the time, and most of that is two channel stereo. Mostly jazz with some classical. The Lexicon does a good job with that using L7 Music. Music sources are LPs, SACDs and CDs. For the LPs use a Linn Sondek LP12 with MC cartridge and Linn phono preamp. The other half of the time I watch TV, I assume most of that is 5.1, and films on Blu-Ray.
> 
> 
> My Multichannel system consists of 9 speakers. Fronts are Magnepan 20.1; center and sides are Magnepan; rears are JSE Model 2. Two Martin Logan subs. So that would be 7.1. Main amp is a Theta Dreadnaught. Replacing a Lexicon MC12HD pre-pro processor. 65" Panasonic 3D Plasma and a JVC projector with 110" screen.
> 
> 
> Again, would like to have your opinions as to whether I'll hear an audible difference if I get the D2v, and whether ARC is as good as Audyssey. Would use ARC with two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the subs, presuming Velodyne EQ first then ARC
> 
> 
> If you have any other recommendations for pre-pros for a surround system instead of Anthem, that would be great info as well. Was looking at the usual choices -- the top of the line from Marantz, Onkyo, Denon, etc. They all include the top of the line of Audyssey. Anthem appears to be a step up over all of them.
> 
> 
> MANY THANKS for all your help and advice



The answer is rather easy with the level of audio equipment and the very sweet sounding speakers and analog audio sources. Buy the D2v. You can connect your phono-amp to the 2 channel input and

run Analog direct, The D2v will have no effect on your analog sources and only act as the analog level control. It will be beautiful.


----------



## bigdaddy999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22853132
> 
> 
> To Diagnose video problems, start by using the built-in video graphics generated by the D2. These are independent of any Source Device.
> 
> 
> These would be the Setup menu itself, and also the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" button). The Video Source Adjust menu includes test patterns which you can use to confirm the video output to your TV.
> 
> 
> So select an input Source in the D2 that has no video coming in (nothing connected or Source Device powered OFF), and see whether you can get stable video to your display at any HD output resolution using the Video Source Adjust menu test patterns. If not, go into Setup > Video Configuration and work through the possibilities.
> 
> 
> What you are reporting sounds like HDMI cabling problems, but it's unclear whether they are happening on the input side or the output side. This test will help you check that the output side is working.
> 
> 
> Since you bought a used unit, you would be well advised to start fresh by going into Setup and Reloading Factory Defaults. Then power cycle the D2.
> 
> 
> Make sure your HDMI plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets with nothing (e.g., cable weight) tugging them in any direction. Make sure the HDMI input you are using on your TV is intended for connection to a DVD Player or Set Top Box, as opposed to connection to a computer.
> 
> 
> Also keep in mind that changes you make in Setup > Video Out Configuration do not take effect immediately. You need to exit the menu and CONFIRM you really want to make these latest changes on the way out. I.e., use the Arrow buttons to change the No to Yes and Select the Yes.
> 
> 
> 
> If you can get the video output side working solidly as evidenced by the D2's own graphics, then any continuing problem you have when trying to use a Source Device must be on the Input side. The most likely is an HDMI cabling problem.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. Taking your comments point by point:


I did a factory reset when I got the unit, as you suggested.


The input on the TV is the main input for HDMI, and I've been using it with no issues.


I did mange to get into the OSD menu and when there WAS a signal, I could get into the menus to see the tests. the INFO screen was of most interest (showing input resolution and output resolution of the D2) on any given input, so thanks for showing me that.


I did a couple of things that improved the situation.


1) I had the FIOS HDMI going into SAT1, and moved it to TV1. No idea if there's something funky in the handling of Sat 1

2) I swapped out a Redmere (directional) HDMI cable from the FIOS box to the D2, and from the D2 to the TV with non-directional HDMI cables.

3) I THINK I changed the color in the Video1 setup data output setting to YBRC444 or something like that, as I saw that as an INPUT from the FIOS box using the OSD (button 7)

4) In the OSD menu I changed the output setting to be anamorphic stretch, which filled the screen for FIOS. Letterbox/pillarbox gave me the wide skinny image. Interestingly, when I used the SONY "wide" function button to fill the screen/zoom, sometimes I would lose the image completely. For a 16x9 set, I think I'm supposed to have it on Full, and not "normal" with HD, but I'll check on that as well.


Now I think I have stable output from FIOS, and DVD, BUT the D2 output from FIOS is still only viewable using the D2's 720 video output SETTING, but it shows an input of 1080i from the FIOS in the OSD.


The DVD is showing the D2 seeing 480 component input, but now I can get the D2 to output 1080 for the DVD, as shown on the OSD (which is what I would have thought it would do).


So the main mystery is this:


If the D2 Video output is HDMI and set at Auto or 1920/1080 (or anything beyond 720/480), I get a blank screen from the FIOS input (TV1) and the message about muting the HDMI video input, HDCP monitor needed. Occasionally it will flash a blue screen and I might see a 4:3 snow or full-screen snow briefly before it goes black. The Sony, incidentally reports the loss of signal immediately with a front panel light that goes out when the D2 decides to have a little fit.


So I am confused about why the D2 would not pass 1080 thru to the TV if the input signal is also 1080. Any other settings you'd suggest I try to hunt down? I can swap one more set of cables tomorrow if the FIOS>D2 cable is a problem (#2).


Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Your current set of problems basically come down to things not working well with 1080p output but working OK with 720p output.


That's a classic description of an HDMI cabling problem. The most likely problem is the HDMI cable from the D2 to your TV, but the cable from the FIOS to the D2 could also be the culprit. You need to make sure you are using "high speed" HDMI cables, labeled as "for 1080p". HDMI is only friction fit and it only takes a small shift of plug in socket to screw things up, so make sure your HDMI plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets with nothing (e.g., cable weight) tugging them in any direction.


By the way, copy protected standard definition DVDs (i.e., pretty much everything you might buy commercially) are limited to 480p output on Component video. That's likely why your DVD player is sending 480p over Component cabling to the D2.


Your problem with getting the aspect ratio correct is a common one. There are three places to get this screwed up: What the TV itself does with the input, what the D2 does as the video goes through, and what the FIOS generates as the output. Sometimes there's nothing for it but to experiment a bit until you learn what the different choices do in each device.


In the first post of this thread you'll find a collection of post links to some tutorial posts in the thread. There are several of them which try to explain what's going on with Cropping and Scaling.


Typically for a Set Top Box like the FIOS you will want to set the D2 to use Auto Crop with Letter/Pillar Box Scaling.

--Bob


----------



## bigdaddy999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22853515
> 
> 
> ^ Your current set of problems basically come down to things not working well with 1080p output but working OK with 720p output.
> 
> 
> That's a classic description of an HDMI cabling problem. The most likely problem is the HDMI cable from the D2 to your TV, but the cable from the FIOS to the D2 could also be the culprit. You need to make sure you are using "high speed" HDMI cables, labeled as "for 1080p". HDMI is only friction fit and it only takes a small shift of plug in socket to screw things up, so make sure your HDMI plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets with nothing (e.g., cable weight) tugging them in any direction.
> 
> 
> By the way, copy protected standard definition DVDs (i.e., pretty much everything you might buy commercially) are limited to 480p output on Component video. That's likely why your DVD player is sending 480p over Component cabling to the D2.
> 
> 
> Your problem with getting the aspect ratio correct is a common one. There are three places to get this screwed up: What the TV itself does with the input, what the D2 does as the video goes through, and what the FIOS generates as the output. Sometimes there's nothing for it but to experiment a bit until you learn what the different choices do in each device.
> 
> 
> In the first post of this thread you'll find a collection of post links to some tutorial posts in the thread. There are several of them which try to explain what's going on with Cropping and Scaling.
> 
> 
> Typically for a Set Top Box like the FIOS you will want to set the D2 to use Auto Crop with Letter/Pillar Box Scaling.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thanks. A few more tidbits. I discovered that the recently -updated FIOS box was not in fact sending 1080i for HDMI (which made sense as I was component wired before). So that's now sending 1080i.


The DVD player is still confusing me. I see 720/480p on the OSD as an INPUT, and an output from the D2 on the same info screen of 1080p, which is what I had it set to do.


BUT - from both the Panny Blu-ray and the FIOS box (using any hdmi cable), I still get a blue flash on the screen, then it goes dead - no image at all. Cannot see the OSD screen at that point as it doesn't think there's a video input to the D2. This also hoses all other video, like all video is then shut down as an input to the D2 until I re-start the D2. Sometimes I get the Muted HDMI Video Need HDCP Monitor.


Question: if the OSD is showing 1080i OUTPUT using the DVD player, doesn't that mean that the HDMI cable is OK (image is still an upscaled 720/480p, so not super crisp), but isn't the D2 thinking it is sending out 1080p or i?


In theory, if that's true, and I can swap HDMI cables from the D2 to the TV with the same results, then those HDMI cables might be OK? I could try one of those on the input side again.


I do not see any other adjustments to make on the FIOS box.


Blu-ray player - I turned off the audio-out over HDMI and went with an optical link for audio. But the video behaves the same way as the FIOS box.


One other quick thing. I tried running component from the FIOS to the D2, and from the D2 to the TV. Still no 1080 image out of the D2 for this FIOS box. Yet, if I connect it directly to the TV, I get 1080i...


Any other adjustments to look for?


Thanks so much. We're making some progress with your assistance.


----------



## paradigm25

One question I had.


Generally when I run ARC measurement I do level calibration of LF speaker to to see 75dB, but generally results show level below 75dB, it is generally in the range of 70dB. Whereas I have seen well above 75dB for many people here. Am I doing something wrong. I would like to know before my next ruin.


Thanks.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22855566
> 
> 
> One question I had.
> 
> 
> Generally when I run ARC measurement I do level calibration of LF speaker to to see 75dB, but generally results show level below 75dB, it is generally in the range of 70dB. Whereas I have seen well above 75dB for many people here. Am I doing something wrong. I would like to know before my next ruin.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



That won't affect your measurements unless you have a lot of ambient noise. What are you using the calibrate the LF to 75dB?


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22855733
> 
> 
> That won't affect your measurements unless you have a lot of ambient noise. What are you using the calibrate the LF to 75dB?



Test tone from D2v, it allows you to do that.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22855566
> 
> 
> One question I had.
> 
> 
> Generally when I run ARC measurement I do level calibration of LF speaker to to see 75dB, but generally results show level below 75dB, it is generally in the range of 70dB. Whereas I have seen well above 75dB for many people here. Am I doing something wrong. I would like to know before my next ruin.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



There is a known glitch that the graphs for some will show less volume than what you set but I have been told not to worry about it. My graphs also show 70db even though my trusty Radio Shack SPL Meter has set the volume to 75db.


----------



## Emosewa09

Many, many thanks to all of you for your responses. I could only manage to save two sets of comments, but read all of them and I'm very appreciative. At the top, several remaining questions:


(1) Other pre-pro processors to consider? Is there any other manufacturer I should look at for a surround sound processor pre-pro? $10,000 is the upper limit of my budget, and would prefer to spend less than that.


I suspect many of the high end are considerably more than that. Krell is coming out with a $6500 processor at the end of February, but the manual is not yet available and the info on the web site are limited. Many of the high end units have abandoned analog inputs and outs, which is a mistake as we are still in a transitional period. I have an analog DVD Recorder that I use frequently, and there are no HDMI or digital equivalent in the US due to copyright restrictions. Bryston is a great example of such a a mornoic design. They provide ins and outs for audio but none for video! The have a section on the back marked for tape rec and video rec -- but no video analog connectors! The fact that Anthem provides everything -- even S-Video, is a real advantage, until we have blu-ray recorders in the US market -- and who knows when that will happen. If ever.


(On the Anthem, can you send a signal to a DVD Recorder from a Tivo, for example, while watching and listening to a different video source? The manual implies you can do so, and in fact from two recorders while watching a different source, but it is not crystal clear.)


I'm already looking at the top units from Marantz, Onkyo and Denon. Do you think that any of those are the equal of Anthem? They rely on Audyssey, see my next question. I'm assuming they are not of the same video or audio quality of the 50v, let alone the D2v, and do not have the same level of set-up versatility.


(2) Audyssey versus ARC -- which is better? Peter from Denmark commented on ARC vs Audyssey, and he appears to be saying that Audyssey is more heavy-handed, and is a one shot, take it or leave it correction? And that ARC is more user adjustable? I considered Audyssey since it accommodates two subs, which I have, but I think my Velodyne SMS units address that anyway. So how does ARC compare to the latest and greatest from Audyssey?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22851849
> 
> 
> Have you outgrown the HDMI inputs on the Lexicon? Are there some features you are currently lacking? If not, why retire it? The Anthems also have an ancient user interface, with much more annoyances if you ask me. I used to have an RV-8 (like an MC-8 + amp) and miss Logic7 sometimes, but that was without HD audio so the 50v was a real upgrade.



The MC12 is a very old unit by today's standards. I'm having increasing numbers of problems, and they invariably happen when I have a large group of guests over to watch a movie. I assume these are handshake problems related to the fact that the MC12 uses, I believe, HDMI 1.1. With Oppo blu ray and either my Panasonic display or a JVC projector, it will fail to play audio when there is video present, or vice versa. Or it is a black screen. Or it defaults to L7 Music instead of Film, so no center speaker. The MC12 can't pass a 3D video signal. On top of that, the company appears to be dead, with Harman turning their emphasis to other products. Lexicon has not provided new firmware for almost 4 years. Many owners are beginning to have mechanical issues, but so far that hasn't happened to me. But it may be inevitable given its age.


As for the "ancient" Anthem user interface, the MC12 is pretty crude as well, but it does have a remarkable level of flexibility. Few new units can match it, especially since it is now about 8 years old since the last major upgrade. Has anyone directly compared the Anthem 50v and D2v to the MC12HD in that regard, specifically in terms of the number of parameters that can be adjusted for each input, and the number of parameters that can be adjusted for the surround formats?


I will miss the L7 surround, which does a great job. I'm told that PLII is as good, but have never critically compared, just defaulting to L7. Before I make the switch, I will do that comparison just to be sure I won't miss L7!


The Anthem music surround makes a point of saying that they do not use the center speaker. That is a mistake. L7 music allows you to adjust how much goes to the center, or none at all. L7 Music does a great job of pulling vocals out of music and putting it in the center, for example, with a two track LP of Sinatra. Anthem should follow the lead of Lexicon in that regard, but again, maybe PLII is as good.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22852754
> 
> 
> Yes, you can handle your two subs as planned: SMS-1 setup first and then your ARC Measurement run with both subs powered.
> 
> 
> The thing you need to know about the D2v is that MOST of the audio differences are in the design and layout of the analog audio board and the selection of components. These differences do not really show up as feature differences.
> 
> 
> The D2v is just a more "exotic" analog audio circuit design.
> 
> 
> We've had a fair number of people who've posted here comparing the original AVM 50 vs. the original D2, and the newer AVM 50v vs. the newer D2v. Some decided to go with the AVM unit purely to save the money -- perhaps to apply to other portions of their system. The AVM models are no slouch for audio, and so this is not surprising.
> 
> 
> But as best I can recall, every such case -- even the ones who ended up choosing the AVM -- agreed the D2 and D2v audio was superior. Enough so that they could actually hear the improvement in their own equipment setup and listening room.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind this is not a comparison that's trivial to do. You have to have each unit long enough to set up ARC for both for example. But there are some folks posting here who've done that and the consensus really is that the D2v sounds better.
> 
> 
> -Bob



I agree that the only way to compare the two units is through intensive listening, and preferably having both units at home. Such a comparison is thus impractical, and listening for an hour at a store just doesn't do it. That is why I posted here and asked for your judgement. Since I listen to analog LPs, the better analog section of the D2v would be a real advantage. And maybe for SACDs, since my Sony turns out an analog signal. (No, I just realized that Anthem doesn't provide analog inputs for SACD, so I will use my Oppo to turn out PCM.)


Do you think the 24/192 up sampling and premium ADCs and DACs make any difference for digital conversion, whether for CDs, SACDs, or blu-ray films? Did anyone report hearing a difference on digital, since the main difference between the two units, as you said, is in the analog section?


I prefer the silver face plate, and thing it is dumb and illogical to offer that option on the less expensive unit, and not on the flagship model!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You misunderstand. The audio OUTPUT of the Anthem is ALSO Analog. Thus the improved Analog design/components in the D2v definitely apply to playing digital sources as well as analog sources.


And yes, the D2v *DOES* have multi-channel Analog input if you want to use that from an SACD player.


If you want to adjust sound steering to the Center speaker, don't use the Anthem Logic Music surround mode. Use PLIIx-Music instead which allows for such adjustments.

--Bob


----------



## Emosewa09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22857418
> 
> 
> ^ You misunderstand. The audio OUTPUT of the Anthem is ALSO Analog. Thus the improved Analog design/components in the D2v definitely apply to playing digital sources as well as analog sources.
> 
> 
> And yes, the D2v *DOES* have multi-channel Analog input if you want to use that from an SACD player.
> 
> 
> If you want to adjust sound steering to the Center speaker, don't use the Anthem Logic Music surround mode. Use PLIIx-Music instead which allows for such adjustments.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the correction on analog input from an SACD player! I've been studying the manual, but missed that! The Anthem units are really well equipped. The best I have seen of high end pre-pros. Most higher end pre-pros leave large sections of their rear panel empty, and neglect to turn out really versatile units.


I understand that the audio output is analog. It must be analog, to connect to power amps. So everything is converted to analog prior to leaving the D2v. However, I had not considered that the analog section would therefore be beneficial for all sources, whether they are originally digital or analog, for the final analog conversion from the D2v. (At least I think that is your point, but if I have misstated it, please correct me.) I guess I assumed that the digital section did the conversion to analog prior to the outputs for power amps, but your point is that the superior analog section plays a role there as well. Have I got that right?


However, the other advertised difference between the 50v and the D2v is that the D2v is that the D2v has "superior" 24/192 upsampling on all channels with any input, and premium ADCs and DACs. I presume that would apply on any digital conversion, and the only place it would not apply is when playing an analog source on bypass. I have to be honest and admit that I have never mastered the nuances of digital technology, so while I can quote from the manual above, I don't really know, in layman's terms, what the advantage is of 24/192 upsampling and premium ADCs and DACs. Aside from what it means, what is the practical and real world benefit?


Did those who compared the two units report that the D2v sounded better on all digital sources, and virtually all digital conversions, compared to the 50v? If so, how did it sound better?


Many thanks again for the excellent responses and help.


And apologies for asking in an Anthem forum about whether any of you recommend any other pre-pros, but I figured it can't hurt to ask. The owners of Anthem are probably always checking out the competition, and can offer opinions as to anything that might compete, or explain why it doesn't.


----------



## AVfile

Sorry to hear you are having trouble with the Lexicon. You will get the impression of much lower build quality with most of the other brands you mentioned. Logic7 has a very expansive and lush sound. The Anthems are definitely more neutral and crisp, and some users with planar speakers report that ARC further collapses the soundstage.


I was going to say Bryston SP-3 is probably more of an audio purist design, but you seem to be interested in video processing and room EQ. The Anthem has good video processing which handles S-video and component, but not composite. You could also get a dedicated video processor if you went for an audio-only processor. I ended up going this way and bypass the Anthem video processor now for my HDMI sources (still use it for the occasional S-video).


If you have a Sony SACD player with HDMI definitely get the D2v. There is a bug in the 50v that produces a hissing noise with 176k/16-bit PCM sources (this is how Sony decimates DSD; Oppo uses 96k/24-bit). By the way, when you turn on ARC it down samples 176k and 192k inputs to 96k. Are you sure you need room correction on top of your subs' EQ?


As a Logic7 guy there is another little catch you should be aware of. While PLIIx can expand sources with 5.1 channels or less to 7.1 channel, Anthem does not allow engaging it with a 6.1 channel source.


----------



## EricE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22858308
> 
> 
> By the way, when you turn on ARC it down samples 176k and 192k inputs to 96k.



Is this statement true for both the AVM50v and the D2V?


I have a few 24/192 tracks that I play and they do sound good but I also have ARC turned on so I may be downsampling the bitstream...???


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EricE*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22858568
> 
> 
> Is this statement true for both the AVM50v and the D2V?
> 
> 
> I have a few 24/192 tracks that I play and they do sound good but I also have ARC turned on so I may be downsampling the bitstream...???



I think so, as Nick from Anthem said it was an ARC limitation, not a chipset limitation. Just press the status button while playing it and see what it says for the input rate and the output rate.... and report back!


----------



## steven2583

I would like a little information how people configure there D2v for video. I have an old Toshiba 81hx57 which does 480i, 480p, andf1080i which currently through the d2v I have it upscale it to 1080i on it's output. Picture still looks great after all these years. I just purchased an JVC RS56. The projector does every current format. So the D2v has one output going to the projector and one to the 81hx57. Is it a good idea is to have say DVD1 use video config 1, and DVD video config 2 and have it set for 1080p 24 and DVD3 use video config 3 and output 1080p60 and then switch between them?


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22859960
> 
> 
> I would like a little information how people configure there D2v for video. I have an old Toshiba 81hx57 which does 480i, 480p, andf1080i which currently through the d2v I have it upscale it to 1080i on it's output. Picture still looks great after all these years. I just purchased an JVC RS56. The projector does every current format. So the D2v has one output going to the projector and one to the 81hx57. Is it a good idea is to have say DVD1 use video config 1, and DVD video config 2 and have it set for 1080p 24 and DVD3 use video config 3 and output 1080p60 and then switch between them?



That's how I do it - I use one setting for watching DVD material and another for Blu Ray material. It takes seconds to set it up in the menus.


----------



## Emosewa09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22858308
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear you are having trouble with the Lexicon. You will get the impression of much lower build quality with most of the other brands you mentioned. Logic7 has a very expansive and lush sound. The Anthems are definitely more neutral and crisp, and some users with planar speakers report that ARC further collapses the soundstage.
> 
> 
> I was going to say Bryston SP-3 is probably more of an audio purist design, but you seem to be interested in video processing and room EQ. The Anthem has good video processing which handles S-video and component, but not composite. You could also get a dedicated video processor if you went for an audio-only processor. I ended up going this way and bypass the Anthem video processor now for my HDMI sources (still use it for the occasional S-video).
> 
> 
> If you have a Sony SACD player with HDMI definitely get the D2v. There is a bug in the 50v that produces a hissing noise with 176k/16-bit PCM sources (this is how Sony decimates DSD; Oppo uses 96k/24-bit). By the way, when you turn on ARC it down samples 176k and 192k inputs to 96k. Are you sure you need room correction on top of your subs' EQ?
> 
> 
> As a Logic7 guy there is another little catch you should be aware of. While PLIIx can expand sources with 5.1 channels or less to 7.1 channel, Anthem does not allow engaging it with a 6.1 channel source.



Thanks very much for the great information!


(1) I wasn't aware that the Sony conversion of DSD "decimates" the sound, and have never critically compared the analog ouput from the Sony, that is then digitally converted when received by the pre-pro anyway -- Versus -- the Oppo output via PCM of SACD. (I guess I could also use the analog outs on the Oppo.) Which do you think sounds better for SACD -- the Sony analog output or the Oppo PCM or analog output? Maybe I should just stop using the Sony with its analog outs and just use the Oppo. I assumed the Sony analog output is better since SACD is the Sony developed format.


(2) 90% of my use of the pre-pro is the same as all of you -- to listen to music either in analog bypass (LPs) or in surround sound (LPs, CD, SACD) -- as well as watch 5.1/7.1 TV and films in surround. However, I do use a DVD recorder a fair amount, and it would just be nice to have a pre-pro that can accomodate that. I talked to tech support at Anthem today, and while it requires jumping through some hoops, the D2v can do so. I never did get a clear answer as to whether. using S Video, I could send an audio (analog or digital) signal and S-Video signal to the DVD recorder, while watching an listening to a different source simultaneously. Has anyone tried that?


(3) For all of the reasons discussed here, keeping the Lexicon for as long as I can is an option. Some Lex owners have done just that, but many more dropped the MC12HD years ago. Those who kept it have been hoping that Harmon/Lexicon would release a replacement to the MC12HD. For the last three years, Lexicon said they would do so. Now it is clear that a replacement is not forthcoming for at least two more years. I am skeptical that we will ever see another high end Lexicon pre-pro, and simply don't trust the vague anecdotal and second hand reports from the company. Lexicon has not released a firmware upgrade for four years, and failed to do so in the last year when problems were reported directly to the company. This debacle is summarized in a very long posting that can be found at the bottom of this page (the guy definitely is not a fan of Lexicon, but his chronological summary is accurate) --

http://www.smr-forums.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1870&PN=16 


Many MC12s have already had mechanical problems. I assume I haven't because I installed a fan to blow over the unit for cooling, and it has been cooled in that fashion since the beginning. That may have helped to lengthen the life. Anyway, to the degree I can sell it on ebay for Craigs List for anything at all, it is best to do it now, while Lexicon still sells the units on their web site.


It is remarkable that after all these years, the MC12 still does things that no one has ever matched. The demise of Lexicon is therefore all the more unfortunate. Nonetheless, as I discussed in an earlier post, my Lexicon uses HDMI 1.1 and already has problems synching up blu-ray audio/video, and I might as well sell it now while it has some value.


Many thanks to all of you for your advice and information!


P.S. -- the silver face plate is no longer an option on the 50v, even though the Anthem literature still shows it that way.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22860284
> 
> 
> I wasn't aware that the Sony conversion of DSD "decimates" the sound, and have never critically compared the analog ouput from the Sony, that is then digitally converted when received by the pre-pro anyway -- Versus -- the Oppo output via PCM of SACD.


Perhaps you are thinking of "decimation" as in destroying the audio. In this context, it is just the technical name for the process of converting the 1-bit delta-sigma DSD signal to a PCM signal. It is not a bad thing.


The Oppo player uses the same process to convert SACDs to 88.1/24 PCM.


----------



## Emosewa09

You are correct. The Merriam-Webster definition of "decimate" is to "reduce drastically especially in number or to cause great destruction or harm to"


Now that I understand that the word is used here quite differently, the point is that both the Sony and Oppo do the same thing, only differently. But the 50v favors the Oppo method rather than the Sony method due to the bug.


Thanks for clarifying!


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39690#post_22831119
> 
> 
> Have now uploaded the official 3.09 and the issue is gone. I now Will try to upload 3.09c
> 
> 
> The Best Way to put it - it Sound like a truck i outside my house........High noisefloor



after i have run some more ARC meassure and uploaded them, i can tell that the sub/humm issue has nothing to do with the firmware. There is somthing in ARC that courses the problem. last night i uploaded two setting - one with room gain 3 (x-over 105hz) and one with roomgain 1(x-over 95hz . the one with roomgain 1 have the "noise" issue - any ideas?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22858704
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EricE*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22858568
> 
> 
> Is this statement true for both the AVM50v and the D2V?
> 
> 
> I have a few 24/192 tracks that I play and they do sound good but I also have ARC turned on so I may be downsampling the bitstream...???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think so, as Nick from Anthem said it was an ARC limitation, not a chipset limitation. Just press the status button while playing it and see what it says for the input rate and the output rate.... and report back!
Click to expand...

Both the 50v and D2v have an in put smapling rate(on the analogs) of 24b/96kHz. The D2v then upsamples it to 24b/192k before sending the audio to its output dacs. In your case, if you have 24b/192 digital tracks, the D2v will simply process that signal via ARC at that sampling rate and output at the same rate of 24/192. Based on a recent review of the 50v and explaining how ARC works...

 

*..... the AVM 50v 3D looked to be a high-quality jack of all trades, and I greatly anticipated exploring two of its greatest attributes: ARC, and Anthem’s implementation of the Sigma Designs VXP video processor. If you’ve heard of Anthem, you’ve probably heard of ARC, which is widely considered one of the top room-correction softwares in the industry.* *Used to its full potential, ARC can measure up to seven channels, plus a subwoofer, at bit rates as high as 192kHz, for up to ten independent listening positions**. The measurements are taken using the supplied software, a calibration microphone of very high quality, and a mike stand and cable, and can take up to an hour to complete, depending on how many speakers you have. With all the data recorded and crunched, ARC then applies corrections for crossover frequency, room gain, time alignment, as well as correcting for both room modes and anti-modes for each channel measured*.

 

ARC can process signals of up to 192k for digital sources on the D2v and only 96k for analog signals for both 50v/D2v.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22858308
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear you are having trouble with the Lexicon. You will get the impression of much lower build quality with most of the other brands you mentioned. Logic7 has a very expansive and lush sound. *The Anthems are definitely more neutral and crisp, and some users with planar speakers report that ARC further collapses the soundstage.*
> 
> 
> I was going to say Bryston SP-3 is probably more of an audio purist design, but you seem to be interested in video processing and room EQ. The Anthem has good video processing which handles S-video and component, but not composite. You could also get a dedicated video processor if you went for an audio-only processor. I ended up going this way and bypass the Anthem video processor now for my HDMI sources (still use it for the occasional S-video).
> 
> 
> If you have a Sony SACD player with HDMI definitely get the D2v. There is a bug in the 50v that produces a hissing noise with 176k/16-bit PCM sources (this is how Sony decimates DSD; Oppo uses 96k/24-bit). By the way, when you turn on ARC it down samples 176k and 192k inputs to 96k. Are you sure you need room correction on top of your subs' EQ?
> 
> 
> As a Logic7 guy there is another little catch you should be aware of. While PLIIx can expand sources with 5.1 channels or less to 7.1 channel, Anthem does not allow engaging it with a 6.1 channel source.


 

The soundstaging collapse is not just experienced with planar speakers but dipoles in general where the speaker emits a front incident sound wave and a delayed back reflected sound wave to produce a deeper soundstage. I have MartinLogan electrostatics(Spires) and find that in Stereo, the sound collapses into the middle leaving not much separation between channels, so that's why i'm forced to use analog-direct for 2CH playback.I perform the distance management in my Oppo 105 player. Truly unfortunate, but this is the way it is.


----------



## Emosewa09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22861880
> 
> 
> The soundstaging collapse is not just experienced with planar speakers but dipoles in general where the speaker emits a front incident sound wave and a delayed back reflected sound wave to produce a deeper soundstage. I have MartinLogan electrostatics(Spires) and find that in Stereo, the sound collapses into the middle leaving not much separation between channels, so that's why i'm forced to use analog-direct for 2CH playback.I perform the distance management in my Oppo 105 player. Truly unfortunate, but this is the way it is.



This is of concern to me, as my front speakers are Magenpan 20.1 and the center is the combined CCR on the CC speaker stand and bass panel. My sides are also Magnepan. Only in the rear do I have traditional speakers.


You reference this problem in stereo.


(1) How does ARC perform with dipoles in 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound, using any of the various surround programs for music or film?


(2) How does ARC perform with dipoles when playing a two channel stereo source, like older 2 channel jazz, but playing that using one of the surround modes?


(3) I've asked several times, but no one has responded in any detail on the question of Audyssey versus ARC. Does the latest and greatest version of Audyssey also suffer from this problem with dipoles?


(4) Does anyone have any opinion as to how Audyssey performs compared to ARC? Peter from Denmark appeared to say that Audyssey is more heavy handed and not as flexible. But does it have these problems with dipoles?


P.S. Apparently some Magnepan centers don't work well with ARC. For some centers, including the CCR, the bottom of the range for the cut-off on the cross-over needs to be 200 hz. But the highest cut-off for ARC is 160. 160 is then too high for a sub but too low for the center. Magnepan apparently doesn't want anything lower than 200. But I shouldn't have that problem because I also bought the CC stand for the CCR, and the CC is a bass panel that goes from 50 to 200, and the CCR then picks up at 200. As Maganepan says "An internal crossover has a high pass filter for the Magneplanar center channel speaker. When the CC stand is coupled with a Magneplanar center channel speaker, the combination creates a full-range Magneplanar in the middle for home theater or multi-channel music." So the combination would have a bass cut-off of around 50.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22860284
> 
> 
> (I guess I could also use the analog outs on the Oppo.) Which do you think sounds better for SACD -- the Sony analog output or the Oppo PCM or analog output? Maybe I should just stop using the Sony with its analog outs and just use the Oppo. I assumed the Sony analog output is better since SACD is the Sony developed format.



What Sony and Oppo are we talking about? There is a nasty SCD-XA5400ES vs. BDP-95 thread in the dedicated CD players/transports forum if you really want to get into that. I would just forget about the analog side and go HDMI into the D2v, that way the signal is kept digital for any EQ and other prossessing until final output to the amp. If you decide to go analog direct 2-channel for some of your music, then there would be a slight preference for a preamp with balanced inputs (I don't think any of the Japanese brands have this; the Bryston should) assuming you have one of the above players with true balanced output - but that would be icing on the cake.


It's good that you have the full range center speaker, because you certainly don't want 150-200 Hz material getting to the sub, unless you enjoy hearing male voices coming from your sub!


I don't think any Anthem owners here will ever say Audyssey is better. ARC is a much more sophisticated system with powerful spectral analysis software that needs a PC to calculate a solution. Having said that you might not need it, especially if you're going to use analog direct a lot. Is there a problem in the room you are hoping to fix?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22857580
> 
> 
> However, the other advertised difference between the 50v and the D2v is that the D2v is that the D2v has "superior" 24/192 upsampling on all channels with any input, and premium ADCs and DACs. I presume that would apply on any digital conversion, and the only place it would not apply is when playing an analog source on bypass. I have to be honest and admit that I have never mastered the nuances of digital technology, so while I can quote from the manual above, I don't really know, in layman's terms, what the advantage is of 24/192 upsampling and premium ADCs and DACs. Aside from what it means, what is the practical and real world benefit?
> 
> 
> Did those who compared the two units report that the D2v sounded better on all digital sources, and virtually all digital conversions, compared to the 50v? If so, how did it sound better?



You asked twice and didn't get any more responses - which is what happened to me 2 years ago when I was ready to buy. I haven't seen any such comparison reports and I've read every post here since.


----------



## Emosewa09

You're correct. Oh well, I tried. Based on the negative report about ARC with dipoles, I am starting to look at other options. I don't know how Audyssey or the Krell system works, and it might not be as good for direct speakers, but it might be better with dipoles.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39800_100#post_22864477
> 
> 
> You're correct. Oh well, I tried. Based on the negative report about ARC with dipoles, I am starting to look at other options. I don't know how Audyssey or the Krell system works, and it might not be as good for direct speakers, but it might be better with dipoles.



I have dipoles and ARC works fine.


Enjoy your Audyssey.


----------



## Emosewa09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22864535
> 
> 
> I have dipoles and ARC works fine.
> 
> 
> Enjoy your Audyssey.



All I said is that I am LOOKING at other options. No decision made yet.










What dipoles are you using, and I assume your experience with 2 channel is that it is OK?


So, given the comment about Audyssey, have you directly compared Audyssey and ARC and how would you describe the difference?


Thanks very much for your help!


----------



## cvinfig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22864642
> 
> 
> All I said is that I am LOOKING at other options. No decision made yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What dipoles are you using, and I assume your experience with 2 channel is that it is OK?
> 
> 
> So, given the comment about Audyssey, have you directly compared Audyssey and ARC and how would you describe the difference?
> 
> 
> Thanks very much for your help!



Speakers: Monitor Audio PL100 bookshelf speakers which have a ribbon tweeter and a 6.5" bass / mid-range driver. The dispersion characteristics of these driver types are very different and can cause some funkiness, mostly around the crossover point, and there's also occassional 'honkiness' or 'sizzle' with some higher frequencies.


I initially had an Anthem AV50v paired with these speakers and before running ARC I heard some sort of artifact in pretty much every song; something that broke the moment and made me wonder 'what the hell was that?' I was disappointed. Side note: I wasn't able to audition the PL100s. Instead I heard the PL300 floorstanding speakers and I didn't detect any artifacts like those presented by my PL100s - not sure if this was due to the complement of drivers, the equipment driving them, and / or the auditioned material...


I then ran ARC. Wow. The speakers sounded great and although I occassionally still heard artifacts, it happened a lot less often (mainly just the higher frequencies). All the other speakers sounded great, the system sounded great, and I didn't need to touch a thing or make any other adjustments.


Fast-forward a couple of months and construction on a dedicated home theater began. The Anthem was pegged for that system and replaced in the existing system by a Marantz AV-7005 with Audyssey MultEQ XT. Before running Audyssey I experienced the same pre-ARC artifacts with the speakers. After running Audyssey, the artifacts were again greatly reduced but not eliminated and those that remained seemed a little worse than ARC. The big difference was the rest of the system. I'm still trying to get the trim levels dialed in as the surrounds and subwoofer were set waaaay too high. It set the highest level of any channel (left front) to -4 and I've manually set the surround speakers to the lowest they'll go and I still think they're too prominient. I've also made a couple adjustments to the sub level as well. (I really need to dedicate some time to taking measurements and getting things dialed in once and for all). Again, this wasn't an issue with ARC - everything seemed to just blend perfectly and the same is true in the new HT (Dynaudio Confidence speakers).


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39800_100#post_22864642
> 
> 
> All I said is that I am LOOKING at other options. No decision made yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What dipoles are you using, and I assume your experience with 2 channel is that it is OK?
> 
> 
> So, given the comment about Audyssey, have you directly compared Audyssey and ARC and how would you describe the difference?
> 
> 
> Thanks very much for your help!



I ONLY USE 7 Channels


----------



## EricE




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22861861
> 
> 
> Both the 50v and D2v have an in put smapling rate(on the analogs) of 24b/96kHz. The D2v then upsamples it to 24b/192k before sending the audio to its output dacs. In your case, if you have 24b/192 digital tracks, the D2v will simply process that signal via ARC at that sampling rate and output at the same rate of 24/192. Based on a recent review of the 50v and explaining how ARC works...
> 
> *..... the AVM 50v 3D looked to be a high-quality jack of all trades, and I greatly anticipated exploring two of its greatest attributes: ARC, and Anthem’s implementation of the Sigma Designs VXP video processor. If you’ve heard of Anthem, you’ve probably heard of ARC, which is widely considered one of the top room-correction softwares in the industry.* *Used to its full potential, ARC can measure up to seven channels, plus a subwoofer, at bit rates as high as 192kHz, for up to ten independent listening positions**. The measurements are taken using the supplied software, a calibration microphone of very high quality, and a mike stand and cable, and can take up to an hour to complete, depending on how many speakers you have. With all the data recorded and crunched, ARC then applies corrections for crossover frequency, room gain, time alignment, as well as correcting for both room modes and anti-modes for each channel measured*.
> 
> 
> ARC can process signals of up to 192k for digital sources on the D2v and only 96k for analog signals for both 50v/D2v.


Thanks dmusoke!


I knew I read that somewhere and it put my faith back onto the D2V. It's been working perfectly and I have been using 24/192k flac files from a netbook through a usb-to-spdif converter that accepts and outputs 24/192 files so that is covered. Best sound that I have gotten from my system and I do use Martin Logan electrostats with no hint of soundstage collapse. Quite the contrary with ARC active, 2ch audio sounds almost as enveloping as 5.1.


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22862503
> 
> 
> This is of concern to me, as my front speakers are Magenpan 20.1 and the center is the combined CCR on the CC speaker stand and bass panel. My sides are also Magnepan. Only in the rear do I have traditional speakers.
> 
> 
> You reference this problem in stereo.
> 
> 
> (1) How does ARC perform with dipoles in 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound, using any of the various surround programs for music or film?
> 
> 
> (2) How does ARC perform with dipoles when playing a two channel stereo source, like older 2 channel jazz, but playing that using one of the surround modes?
> 
> 
> (3) I've asked several times, but no one has responded in any detail on the question of Audyssey versus ARC. Does the latest and greatest version of Audyssey also suffer from this problem with dipoles?
> 
> 
> (4) Does anyone have any opinion as to how Audyssey performs compared to ARC? Peter from Denmark appeared to say that Audyssey is more heavy handed and not as flexible. But does it have these problems with dipoles?
> 
> 
> P.S. Apparently some Magnepan centers don't work well with ARC. For some centers, including the CCR, the bottom of the range for the cut-off on the cross-over needs to be 200 hz. But the highest cut-off for ARC is 160. 160 is then too high for a sub but too low for the center. Magnepan apparently doesn't want anything lower than 200. But I shouldn't have that problem because I also bought the CC stand for the CCR, and the CC is a bass panel that goes from 50 to 200, and the CCR then picks up at 200. As Maganepan says "An internal crossover has a high pass filter for the Magneplanar center channel speaker. When the CC stand is coupled with a Magneplanar center channel speaker, the combination creates a full-range Magneplanar in the middle for home theater or multi-channel music." So the combination would have a bass cut-off of around 50.



I have dipoles (Linkwitz Orions) and I have recently been doing shootouts with dipole panel speakers (Maggie and Apogee). I have an AVM40 with ARC and previously used various Audysseu equipped units, although I haven't tried XT32.


Firstly, I've never noticed a soundstage collapse with ARC and my dipoles. I have a very large, quite lively room and this has never been an issue.


I used to use Anthem Music a lot, but it does something funny in the bass, adding some kind of boost. This is easily observable when running pink noise from an external source. DPL2 Music does it to a lesser extent and DTS Neo even less. I used to own a Lexicon DC2 and would overall say I prefer Logic 7.


Usually I listen in straight stereo, but I will occasionally use the surround modes for more expansive music. I wish my Anthem had a direct programmable music mode button on the remote, but it doesn't.


When I had an Audyssey XT equipped prepro, I could never get a good result with my dipoles. Aside from Audyssey (IMHO) using a curve that results in too much brightness, there was a consistent and measurable issue around 100Hz. I ended up switching to a Denon unit which allowed you to just use Audyssey for the sub and the surrounds.


ARC, on the other hand, has shown no such problems. I like the ability to use it over restricted frequencies and to have separate settings for music and movies. I'm less sure about some of its bass management decisions. They are certainly not textbook.


But I leave ARC on for music and movies, whereas I turned Audyssey off.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22835711
> 
> 
> I'll answer the simplest one first... GET the SVS EQ1 especially if you have dual subs. It handles sub bass way better than ARC does.
> 
> 
> Now the "lack" of bass response you alluded to earlier, IMO is due to the low room gain you choose. Probably ARC must have suggested something higher and you reduced it to make your graphs look 'prettier' but not sound better than the ARC solution. Did you try the default solution that ARC gave you at 5K with the default room gain? Please post original and new targets.
> 
> 
> The deep null at 70Hz is IMO probably due to a room mode. Since you said (and correct me if i'm wrong) that moving the sub is not an option, the you have 2 other options that will involve money. Invest in the SVS EQ-1 as i said before and, if you can swing it, get a 2nd sub(same type/tonality/manufacturer) as the first one and place it in the back of the room for example. The fix would involve running  the SVS to time or phase align the subs which would help eliminate that null and provide even bass response around the room.



dmusoke:


I finally got an AS-EQ1, it is coming tomorrow. I have a question. AS-EQ1 only allows RCA connections. I use XLR's to connect to my amp, and when I will be connecting the LF RCA out from D2v to AS- EQ1 during it's level calibration. Can I go back to using XLR's after that or I will have to switch using RCA's between D2v and my P5 amp..


I plan to run ARC after AS-EQ1. Just going through the manual, might have some more question. Generally, should I just follow the AS-EQ1 procedure in the manual, or any tweaks you want to suggest. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22864477
> 
> 
> You're correct. Oh well, I tried. Based on the negative report about ARC with dipoles, I am starting to look at other options. I don't know how Audyssey or the Krell system works, and it might not be as good for direct speakers, but it might be better with dipoles.



There is no problem with ARC and dipoles.


ARC is detecting ROOM response issues, which is why measurements need to be made at different mic positions.


Personally, I don't recommend dipoles unless you have no choice but to place surround speakers quite close to seating, but that has nothing to do with ARC.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22864477
> 
> 
> You're correct. Oh well, I tried. Based on the negative report about ARC with dipoles, I am starting to look at other options. I don't know how Audyssey or the Krell system works, and it might not be as good for direct speakers, but it might be better with dipoles.



My previous speaker system were dipoles and line sources and AR worked fine. There was no collapse of the sound field.

Arc actually made the sound field extended past the edges of the speakers to the limit of the width of the room.


----------



## Emosewa09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Steve Dodds*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39810#post_22865266
> 
> 
> I have dipoles (Linkwitz Orions) and I have recently been doing shootouts with dipole panel speakers (Maggie and Apogee). I have an AVM40 with ARC and previously used various Audysseu equipped units, although I haven't tried XT32.
> 
> 
> Firstly, I've never noticed a soundstage collapse with ARC and my dipoles. I have a very large, quite lively room and this has never been an issue.
> 
> 
> I used to use Anthem Music a lot, but it does something funny in the bass, adding some kind of boost. This is easily observable when running pink noise from an external source. DPL2 Music does it to a lesser extent and DTS Neo even less. I used to own a Lexicon DC2 and would overall say I prefer Logic 7.
> 
> 
> Usually I listen in straight stereo, but I will occasionally use the surround modes for more expansive music. I wish my Anthem had a direct programmable music mode button on the remote, but it doesn't.
> 
> 
> When I had an Audyssey XT equipped prepro, I could never get a good result with my dipoles. Aside from Audyssey (IMHO) using a curve that results in too much brightness, there was a consistent and measurable issue around 100Hz. I ended up switching to a Denon unit which allowed you to just use Audyssey for the sub and the surrounds.
> 
> 
> ARC, on the other hand, has shown no such problems. I like the ability to use it over restricted frequencies and to have separate settings for music and movies. I'm less sure about some of its bass management decisions. They are certainly not textbook.
> 
> 
> But I leave ARC on for music and movies, whereas I turned Audyssey off.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22866271
> 
> 
> My previous speaker system were dipoles and line sources and AR worked fine. There was no collapse of the sound field.
> 
> Arc actually made the sound field extended past the edges of the speakers to the limit of the width of the room.



Many thanks, again, for the excellent responses. I hope you all realized I was reacting to one report. One person had problems with ARC and dipoles, and the rest of you did not. The one reported problem might be related to the characteristics of that room.


In any case, I have not found another processor with the same great reviews and features. Except maybe for the $30,000 Krell.


----------



## p.las

i am using M&K tripoles , wicth is a hybrid - monopole on the front , dipole on the side. i never have problems with ARC in that regards.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22865627
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39720#post_22835711
> 
> 
> I'll answer the simplest one first... GET the SVS EQ1 especially if you have dual subs. It handles sub bass way better than ARC does.
> 
> 
> Now the "lack" of bass response you alluded to earlier, IMO is due to the low room gain you choose. Probably ARC must have suggested something higher and you reduced it to make your graphs look 'prettier' but not sound better than the ARC solution. Did you try the default solution that ARC gave you at 5K with the default room gain? Please post original and new targets.
> 
> 
> The deep null at 70Hz is IMO probably due to a room mode. Since you said (and correct me if i'm wrong) that moving the sub is not an option, the you have 2 other options that will involve money. Invest in the SVS EQ-1 as i said before and, if you can swing it, get a 2nd sub(same type/tonality/manufacturer) as the first one and place it in the back of the room for example. The fix would involve running  the SVS to time or phase align the subs which would help eliminate that null and provide even bass response around the room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dmusoke:
> 
> 
> I finally got an AS-EQ1, it is coming tomorrow. I have a question. AS-EQ1 only allows RCA connections. I use XLR's to connect to my amp, and when I will be connecting the LF RCA out from D2v to AS- EQ1 during it's level calibration. Can I go back to using XLR's after that or I will have to switch using RCA's between D2v and my P5 amp..
> 
> 
> I plan to run ARC after AS-EQ1. Just going through the manual, might have some more question. Generally, should I just follow the AS-EQ1 procedure in the manual, or any tweaks you want to suggest. Thanks.
Click to expand...

IMO, I'd get a true isolated RCA -> XLR -> RCA converter box, which uses transformers for isolation and passive gain control. I use this one from Rane

http://www.amazon.com/Rane-2-Channel-Matching-Converter-Connectors/dp/B0002D08GG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1358922909&sr=8-2&keywords=rane+xlr . because i developed a high pitched whine in my system when i connected the Subwoofer output of the D2v to the AS-EQ1. The Rane balance buddy eliminated it for me. I tried the usual suspects which involve disconnecting cable TV rf cables, trying different AC outlets, etc but all failed hence the Rain Buddy.  Cheaper ones exist i'm sure (e.g Jensen Audio Transformers) as they are used in many Pro-Audio applications

 

Your system obviously is different than mine so i would try the standard XLR-RCA connector first and hopeful all will be well. And i presume you use your subwoofer has XLR inputs?

 

Anyways, the connection path using this simple connector would be:

 

1.    D2v Sub XLR_Out ---> XLR_to_RCA_Connector/Cable ---> AS-EQ1_RCA_Input.

 

2.    AS-EQ1_RCA_Output ---> XLR_to_RCA_Connector/Cable ---> Subwoofer.

 

Also, you'll need to connect Satellite in put of te EQ1 to the left/center input into the D2v during the calibration process. Remove it afterwards and connect original cables back into the D2v.

 

If you have dual, subs, then you'll need 4 of these converters/cables. The EQ1 excels at handling 2 subs, stereo or mono subs. 

 

Hope this helps ...


----------



## Steve Dodds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22866726
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks, again, for the excellent responses. I hope you all realized I was reacting to one report. One person had problems with ARC and dipoles, and the rest of you did not. The one reported problem might be related to the characteristics of that room.
> 
> 
> In any case, I have not found another processor with the same great reviews and features. Except maybe for the $30,000 Krell.



If you want an automatic solution whilst retaining some flexibility to tweak the sound to your taste, I don't think you can do better than one of the Anthems.


There are a few operational and ergonomic quirks, but this is true of most prepros. The ability to have complete flexibility over input assignment is a real benefit as you can have multiple setups with different bass management, ARC settings, and modes all from the one cable.


I have an older model and there have been some annoying HDMI issues, but one would hope the newer models have overcome this.


My only real beef, and this is only because I am a tweaker and measurer, is the slightly unusual way ARC handles bass management and LFE, but for most this will not be an issue.


If you are the sort who doesn't trust automatic solutions, who likes to tweak and who has measuring equipment, on the other hand, you may be happier with something that offers full manual parametric EQ.


Oh, and the other huge advantage the Anthems have other their competitors is this thread and the involvement of folk like Bob and Nick.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22866780
> 
> 
> i am using M&K tripoles , wicth is a hybrid - monopole on the front , dipole on the side. i never have problems with ARC in that regards.



Are you talking about surround speakers? We are talking about front speakers that are bipolar, something not as common.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22866891
> 
> 
> Are you talking about surround speakers? We are talking about front speakers that are bipolar, something not as common.



sorry - my mistake


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22866799
> 
> 
> IMO, I'd get a true isolated RCA -> XLR -> RCA converter box, which uses transformers for isolation and passive gain control. I use this one from Rane
> http://www.amazon.com/Rane-2-Channel-Matching-Converter-Connectors/dp/B0002D08GG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1358922909&sr=8-2&keywords=rane+xlr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . because i developed a high pitched whine in my system when i connected the Subwoofer output of the D2v to the AS-EQ1. The Rane balance buddy eliminated it for me. I tried the usual suspects which involve disconnecting cable TV rf cables, trying different AC outlets, etc but all failed hence the Rain Buddy.  Cheaper ones exist i'm sure (e.g Jensen Audio Transformers) as they are used in many Pro-Audio applications
> 
> 
> Your system obviously is different than mine so i would try the standard XLR-RCA connector first and hopeful all will be well. And i presume you use your subwoofer has XLR inputs?
> 
> 
> Anyways, the connection path using this simple connector would be:
> 
> 
> 1.    D2v Sub XLR_Out ---> XLR_to_RCA_Connector/Cable ---> AS-EQ1_RCA_Input.
> 
> 
> 2.    AS-EQ1_RCA_Output ---> XLR_to_RCA_Connector/Cable ---> Subwoofer.
> 
> 
> Also, you'll need to connect Satellite in put of te EQ1 to the left/center input into the D2v during the calibration process. Remove it afterwards and connect original cables back into the D2v.
> 
> 
> If you have dual, subs, then you'll need 4 of these converters/cables. The EQ1 excels at handling 2 subs, stereo or mono subs.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps ...



to get the best result - use the One in . Two out setings in the SVS boks


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22866959
> 
> 
> to get the best result - use the One in . Two out setings in the SVS boks



That is if I have two subs, correct, for one sub Sub A in Sub A out.


Thanks.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22866799
> 
> 
> IMO, I'd get a true isolated RCA -> XLR -> RCA converter box, which uses transformers for isolation and passive gain control. I use this one from Rane
> http://www.amazon.com/Rane-2-Channel-Matching-Converter-Connectors/dp/B0002D08GG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1358922909&sr=8-2&keywords=rane+xlr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . because i developed a high pitched whine in my system when i connected the Subwoofer output of the D2v to the AS-EQ1. The Rane balance buddy eliminated it for me. I tried the usual suspects which involve disconnecting cable TV rf cables, trying different AC outlets, etc but all failed hence the Rain Buddy.  Cheaper ones exist i'm sure (e.g Jensen Audio Transformers) as they are used in many Pro-Audio applications
> 
> 
> Your system obviously is different than mine so i would try the standard XLR-RCA connector first and hopeful all will be well. And i presume you use your subwoofer has XLR inputs?
> 
> 
> Anyways, the connection path using this simple connector would be:
> 
> 
> 1.    D2v Sub XLR_Out ---> XLR_to_RCA_Connector/Cable ---> AS-EQ1_RCA_Input.
> 
> 
> 2.    AS-EQ1_RCA_Output ---> XLR_to_RCA_Connector/Cable ---> Subwoofer.
> 
> 
> Also, you'll need to connect Satellite in put of te EQ1 to the left/center input into the D2v during the calibration process. Remove it afterwards and connect original cables back into the D2v.
> 
> 
> If you have dual, subs, then you'll need 4 of these converters/cables. The EQ1 excels at handling 2 subs, stereo or mono subs.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps ...



dmusoke:


This confuses me a little:


"Your system obviously is different than mine so i would try the standard XLR-RCA connector first and hopeful all will be well. And i presume you use your subwoofer has XLR inputs?"


You are saying to use standard XLR-RCA and see if that works then use that, and it means to me that connect all other speakers to amp with XLR and connect the sub with RCA, and if everything is fine than just leave it like that, but then you said you assume my sub has XLR inputs, yes it does, but I will not be connecting through XLR in this scheme.


And why I ask is because I read here that XLR outputs are +3dB hotter than RCA, and essentially I will be using two types of connections here, but again when I run ARC after AS-EQ1, it might trim the levels accordingly.


Bob: Can you please confirm this, I do not want to do this too many times, my wife is sick of whheeeeeeeeepp sound.


Basically I intend to connect sub to AS-EQ1 with RCA, and AS-EQ1 to sub with RCA, while connecting all other speaker outs to amp with XLR's. Also, during AS-EQ1 level match with LF, I will connect that also via RCA, because AS-EQ1 does not have XLR ins or outs.


Another option is to change everything to RCA (I don't want to do unless I have to).


Thanks.


----------



## dmusoke


Paradigm,

 

XLRs are +6db hotter than RCAs but no worries since most power amps compensate for this internally or have an external switch to select between RCA and XLR input usage. During calibration, the EQ1 will also adjust its own gain automatically until it reads the calibration SPL levels it desires.

 

*IMPORTANT*  Make sure you use an analog direct mode and NOT analog-DSP when calibrating with the EQ1 to eliminate any latent adjustments due to ARC..

 

Also know that in the end, ARC will compensate for the difference in levels it may find to reach its desired 75dB level so no need to worry about using rca versus xlr. The whole issue is moot by then.


----------



## nine ball

I need some help.....


Can anyone remember the product name of the usb to RS232 cable for updating???


I'm trying to find it in the thread and I'm having a heck of a time........


Peter


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22870800
> 
> 
> I need some help.....
> 
> 
> Can anyone remember the product name of the usb to RS232 cable for updating???
> 
> 
> I'm trying to find it in the thread and I'm having a heck of a time........
> 
> 
> Peter



Keyspan USA-19hs


----------



## nine ball

Thank you very much....


Peter


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22870070
> 
> 
> That is if I have two subs, correct, for one sub Sub A in Sub A out.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



yes


----------



## Emosewa09

Many thanks to all of you for responding to my questions. I'll be buying a D2v, but it might not be until late February. No other preamp has its combination of sound quality, room correction, and versatility in terms of both analog and digital connections. I'll probably be back with more questions at that time, and greatly appreciate your help and support!


In the meantime, I'll read the FAQs and as much of the 1,300 pages of this thread as I can to get up to speed on ARC.


Since Anthem reads this site, I'll offer the suggestion that they need to expand the owner's manual. It's clear that the many nuances of the unit are not adequately covered in the manual. That is also clear from my conversations with Anthem tech support. For example, ARC is covered in only 4 pages. This thread is proof that ARC is not adequately covered in the manual.


The Lexicon MC-12HD, a product that is equally complex, has a manual twice as long. A thorough and well organized manual is preferable to having to read through a long thread, that by its very nature, is not organized by topic or subject.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nine ball*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780_90#post_22870800
> 
> 
> I need some help.....
> 
> 
> Can anyone remember the product name of the usb to RS232 cable for updating???
> 
> 
> I'm trying to find it in the thread and I'm having a heck of a time........
> 
> 
> Peter


It may not apply to you, but I have found one more way of connecting the D2v to a laptop without serial port.

 

I connect my laptop to a docking station, and that has a serial port, and it works fine.


----------



## studlygoorite

I'm in a bit of a dilemma I would like to put my new amps in my rack at the back of the room but the front speaker run is 50'. It has been suggested that I run balanced out to the speakers and then run a 5' speaker cable, I know the balanced is a good idea as longer speaker cable runs lose some but how much we talking here, a db or two, or is it more crucial than that?


PS; Sent my D2v in for the 3D upgrade and service today and filled the gap with a 250.00 3D Pioneer. I have not had to reboot or change inputs once to fix a pink screen or blank picture compared to 3 times a night with the D2v. Hopefully the newer HDMI board and output will negate any further issues.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22876059
> 
> 
> I'm in a bit of a dilemma I would like to put my new amps in my rack at the back of the room but the front speaker run is 50'. It has been suggested that I run balanced out to the speakers and then run a 5' speaker cable, I know the balanced is a good idea as longer speaker cable runs lose some but how much we talking here, a db or two, or is it more crucial than that?
> 
> 
> PS; Sent my D2v in for the 3D upgrade and service today and filled the gap with a 250.00 3D Pioneer. I have not had to reboot or change inputs once to fix a pink screen or blank picture compared to 3 times a night with the D2v. Hopefully the newer HDMI board and output will negate any further issues.



I would suggest you reconsider moving the amps to the rack in the rear of the room.

First, how would run balanced out to the speakers and then run a 5' speaker cable ?

It is better to place the amps close to the speakers and run balanced cables to each amp and then a short good quality speaker cable from each amp to each the speaker.

It will sound better and reduce the cost of a long speaker cable.

And, placing the amps in your rack will add a considerable amount of heat to wherever the rack is located


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22876127
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22876059
> 
> 
> I'm in a bit of a dilemma I would like to put my new amps in my rack at the back of the room but the front speaker run is 50'. It has been suggested that I run balanced out to the speakers and then run a 5' speaker cable, I know the balanced is a good idea as longer speaker cable runs lose some but how much we talking here, a db or two, or is it more crucial than that?
> 
> 
> PS; Sent my D2v in for the 3D upgrade and service today and filled the gap with a 250.00 3D Pioneer. I have not had to reboot or change inputs once to fix a pink screen or blank picture compared to 3 times a night with the D2v. Hopefully the newer HDMI board and output will negate any further issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would suggest you reconsider moving the amps to the rack in the rear of the room.
> 
> First, how would run balanced out to the speakers and then run a 5' speaker cable ?
> 
> It is better to place the amps close to the speakers and run balanced cables to each amp and then a short good quality speaker cable from each amp to each the speaker.
> 
> It will sound better and reduce the cost of a long speaker cable.
> 
> And, placing the amps in your rack will add a considerable amount of heat to wherever the rack is located
Click to expand...

 

^^^ Best advice for your situation Stew!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The line level connection to the amps is low voltage. The speaker connection FROM the amps is higher voltage.


The usual advice would be to keep the interconnect cables (to the amps) short and let the speaker cable runs be long.


50 feet is no problem for speaker cables as regards voltage. Unless the cables are REALLY cheap I'd doubt you'll see even a fraction of a dB of voltage drop.


If you want to get esoteric about it, you can consider exotic (expensive) speaker cable designs that minimize things like frequency related phase differential, but probably more important is getting sturdy enough cable that you don't have to worry about having to rerun it because it gets damaged. I'm not talking ship hawsers here. Think of the sort of sturdiness found in electrical wiring used inside the walls.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite

The thing is that I already have 10ga speaker wire running through my walls 50' to the speakers from the rack already and if I decided to go balanced out to the amps closer to the speakers I would have to run the balanced outside of the wall around a door 50', a little troublesome but still doable. These M1s do not throw much heat at all so that would not be a problem. So if I would not lose much like Bob states a fraction of a db, then off to the rack they go.............................. but if they would sound better like Stu says, then off to Blue Jeans I go to purchase 50' balanced.







Anyone want to break the tie? And thanks for the help.


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22876434
> 
> 
> ^ The line level connection to the amps is low voltage. The speaker connection FROM the amps is higher voltage.
> 
> 
> The usual advice would be to keep the interconnect cables (to the amps) short and let the speaker cable runs be long.
> 
> 
> 50 feet is no problem for speaker cables as regards voltage. Unless the cables are REALLY cheap I'd doubt you'll see even a fraction of a dB of voltage drop.
> 
> 
> If you want to get esoteric about it, you can consider exotic (expensive) speaker cable designs that minimize things like frequency related phase differential, but probably more important is getting sturdy enough cable that you don't have to worry about having to rerun it because it gets damaged. I'm not talking ship hawsers here. Think of the sort of sturdiness found in electrical wiring used inside the walls.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I am a little confused by this. I am in the middle of building my Theater, and I will be utilizing a rack that is mounted in the wall. For my front speakers my plan was to bi-amp each of my S8s with one P2 for each speaker. From the discussions I have had with dealers and other folks they recommended running Balanced inter-connects to the amps, and then shorter speaker cable as this would maintain the quality of the signal. ( runs from rack about 75ft). For my surrounds and my center I will use a P5 mounted in the rack and run speaker wire from there to the respective speakers.


I am using Marshall Soundrunner speaker cable (10awg) for the speaker cable and just got my 500ft spool. The interconnects I will be using Mogami balanced (75ft)


What are your thoughts on this set up?


Gerard


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22876434
> 
> 
> ^ The line level connection to the amps is low voltage. The speaker connection FROM the amps is higher voltage.
> 
> 
> The usual advice would be to keep the interconnect cables (to the amps) short and let the speaker cable runs be long.
> 
> 
> 50 feet is no problem for speaker cables as regards voltage. Unless the cables are REALLY cheap I'd doubt you'll see even a fraction of a dB of voltage drop.
> 
> 
> If you want to get esoteric about it, you can consider exotic (expensive) speaker cable designs that minimize things like frequency related phase differential, but probably more important is getting sturdy enough cable that you don't have to worry about having to rerun it because it gets damaged. I'm not talking ship hawsers here. Think of the sort of sturdiness found in electrical wiring used inside the walls.
> 
> --Bob




Bob

I seldom have a conflict with any of your suggestions or ideas but in this case I would not suggest to anyone they use short interconnects and 50 ft speaker cables.

Unless it is a home theater and you do not really want to hear audiophile sound for your music.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22876950
> 
> 
> The thing is that I already have 10ga speaker wire running through my walls 50' to the speakers from the rack already and if I decided to go balanced out to the amps closer to the speakers I would have to run the balanced outside of the wall around a door 50', a little troublesome but still doable. These M1s do not throw much heat at all so that would not be a problem. So if I would not lose much like Bob states a fraction of a db, then off to the rack they go.............................. but if they would sound better like Stu says, then off to Blue Jeans I go to purchase 50' balanced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone want to break the tie? And thanks for the help.




studlygoorite

My suggestion would be to use 50 ft Mogami Gold Stage Mic Cable with Neutrik XLR Connectors for your interconnects and a high quality speaker cable of about 3 to 6 feet in length





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22877171
> 
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I am a little confused by this. I am in the middle of building my Theater, and I will be utilizing a rack that is mounted in the wall. For my front speakers my plan was to bi-amp each of my S8s with one P2 for each speaker. From the discussions I have had with dealers and other folks they recommended running Balanced inter-connects to the amps, and then shorter speaker cable as this would maintain the quality of the signal. ( runs from rack about 75ft). For my surrounds and my center I will use a P5 mounted in the rack and run speaker wire from there to the respective speakers.
> 
> 
> I am using Marshall Soundrunner speaker cable (10awg) for the speaker cable and just got my 500ft spool. The interconnects I will be using Mogami balanced (75ft)
> 
> 
> What are your thoughts on this set up?
> 
> 
> Gerard




Gerald you are absolutely on the right track for a good sounding system. . Follow the dealer recommendation of long interconnects and short high quality speaker cable


----------



## jo5507

I have to agree with Bob's advice on short interconnects and longer speaker cables. This link will offer some technical support.
http://www.empiricalaudio.com/computer-audio/audio-faqs/short-versus-long-cables 


A summary paragraph ....
_The graph shows that for medium cable lengths, the relationship of optimum speaker cable to interconnect length is (spkr) = 26+2.2(inter). This means that in order for both interconnects and speaker cables to be the optimum length, the speaker cable should be 2.2 times as long as the interconnect plus 26 feet. The obvious conclusion from this is that lengths shorter than 26 feet overall should be primarily speaker cable, with very short interconnects. If an overall length was 50 feet, then the optimum interconnect would be 7.5 feet and speaker cable would be 42.5 feet. The graph allows for more than 270 feet of speaker cable, but an abbreviated version of 150 feet is shown here for readability. Another conclusion that can be drawn from this is that it is more difficult and costly to manufacture a high-performance long interconnect than a high-performance long speaker cable._


----------



## jo5507




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22877171
> 
> 
> For my front speakers my plan was to bi-amp each of my S8s with one P2 for each speaker.
> 
> Gerard



Can you explain how you plan to configure your amps/ front speakers? I'm curious about your bi amp plan when you say one amp per speaker.


----------



## gerard1meehan

I will be powering a pair of Signature 8 speakers with two Anthem P2 amps. To achieve this I run a y split XLR from by D2v to the two inputs of my amp. I then run one speaker line to the high and other to the low end connectors of my speakers.


I had this in my test system prior to construction and the results were amazing. It’s 650 watts per speaker, very low noise floor.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22878943
> 
> 
> I will be powering a pair of Signature 8 speakers with two Anthem P2 amps. To achieve this I run a y split XLR from by D2v to the two inputs of my amp. I then run one speaker line to the high and other to the low end connectors of my speakers.
> 
> 
> I had this in my test system prior to construction and the results were amazing. It’s 650 watts per speaker, very low noise floor.



This is how I am set up now but with 2 measly MCA 50s bi-amped across my front S8s and C5


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22879041
> 
> 
> This is how I am set up now but with 2 measly MCA 50s bi-amped across my front S8s and C5



Same here but two A5s.


Jeremy


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jo5507*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22878726
> 
> 
> I have to agree with Bob's advice on short interconnects and longer speaker cables. This link will offer some technical support.
> http://www.empiricalaudio.com/computer-audio/audio-faqs/short-versus-long-cables
> 
> 
> A summary paragraph ....
> _The graph shows that for medium cable lengths, the relationship of optimum speaker cable to interconnect length is (spkr) = 26+2.2(inter). This means that in order for both interconnects and speaker cables to be the optimum length, the speaker cable should be 2.2 times as long as the interconnect plus 26 feet. The obvious conclusion from this is that lengths shorter than 26 feet overall should be primarily speaker cable, with very short interconnects. If an overall length was 50 feet, then the optimum interconnect would be 7.5 feet and speaker cable would be 42.5 feet. The graph allows for more than 270 feet of speaker cable, but an abbreviated version of 150 feet is shown here for readability. Another conclusion that can be drawn from this is that it is more difficult and costly to manufacture a high-performance long interconnect than a high-performance long speaker cable._



This is one manufacturers viewpoint. Most importantly if you read the article you supplied they are talking about single ended Interconnects and we are specifically

talking about balanced interconnects. The one I like best and was recommended to me by Gary Koh the designer of Genesis Speakers is

Mogami Gold Stage Mic Cable with Neutrik XLR Connectors.


----------



## jerbob

Hi everyone,


I purchased a used 50V almost 2 years ago and have been mostly lurking in this thread ever since. Without the knowledge that I gained from all of you I probably would still be trying to set up ARC. But now I have run into an issue and need some help.


I have a 7.1 speaker system set up with my processor. My 50V had firmware 2.10 installed on it when I purchased it. Everything was functioning correctly except for the issues that we all had with firmware 2.10. About 4 months ago I installed firmware 3.09 after it became official. Of course then I experienced the low volume on startup bug with the 50V. I contacted Anthem when the bug became a annoyance and they gave me access to the password protected page and told me to install 309c, which I did.


Now, when bitstreaming a blu-ray disc with DTS 5.1 Master Audio my processor shows that it is receiving the 5.1 signal but it is sending 7.1 channels of audio. And indeed it is, as I have sound coming from my rear speakers. I am not sure which signals are being sent to the rears but I am guessing that it is the side channel signal split and sent to the rears. My mode is set to “none” so no additional modes are being implemented. Also when watching some previews on a disc that are encoded for just the left and right channels I am receiving 7 channels of sound. On the other hand when the source is Dolby Digital 5.1 or Dolby Digital HD 5.1, the proper signal is output. If I stream content from Vudu, in Dolby Digital or Dolby Digital Plus 5.1 the proper signal is output. I have 2 blu-ray players (Oppo 93 and a Sony BDP-790) connected to the 50V at HDMI in 1 and 2 and the results are the same from both of them. I realize that I could use PCM from the blu-ray players and probably correct the problem but I prefer the 50V to do the decoding

.

Anyone else experiencing this problem with 309c and a 7 channel set up? I did search this thread and Bob had found that when using 309c and the 6-channel analog input that there was a problem similar to this


----------



## Milt99

I recently purchased a 2nd D2.

Can I use my current ARC software\mic with this unit?


I tried to contact tech support yesterday but their contact app wouldn't work from my work PC.


Thanks


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39850_50#post_22883529
> 
> 
> I recently purchased a 2nd D2.
> 
> Can I use my current ARC software\mic with this unit?
> 
> 
> I tried to contact tech support yesterday but their contact app wouldn't work from my work PC.
> 
> 
> Thanks


Did you mean that the webform located at: http://www.anthemav.com/Contact-Technical-Support 

did not work from your work PC ? They usually take 2 or 3 days to respond.


Otherwise from what I know, the old D2 need to have a special license with the D2 serial and Microphone serial for ARC to work.

If your D2 was sold with ARC then support can generate a new license file for you if you lost it.


----------



## Milt99

Thanks.


The deal with the web app was that is did not recognize that I had input anything into the text message window so it wouldn't send it.

I re-did it today on my home PC using Chrome and it worked fine.

At work I have IE 9.


I have no idea if the D2 I bought ever had ARC attached to it.

I'm gonna give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens.


----------



## steven2583

Has anyone have handshake issues with the Oppo 93 and D2v. I have occasional issues with the video and audio blanking out for about 1 seconds in the movie. I figured there was an issue between the D2v and the HDFury. I just bought a JVC RS56 and the screen and audio blanks out but between 2-5 seconds. The JVC seems to takes longer to recover. I'm guessing the issue is between the Oppo and the D2v. I'm going to try and use my 2nd HDMI directly to the RS56 and see if the video stays on and the audio fails. I've switched HDMI cables between the 93 and D2v about a year ago and it didn't help. I'm running the latest firmware on the 93 and the D2v is running 3.09f (whatever was current a month ago). Does anyone have any ideas on what I can change in the configuration that would make the connection more stable. Currently it's flanking out about 5-7 times during a movie. My DirecTV DVR doesn't see to have this problem nearly as much or it happens really infrequent. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22884394
> 
> 
> Has anyone have handshake issues with the Oppo 93 and D2v. I have occasional issues with the video and audio blanking out for about 1 seconds in the movie.



I doubt it, that is a very common combo around here. What title(s) did you get the dropouts on and are you bitstreaming or PCM?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22882445
> 
> 
> Now, when bitstreaming a blu-ray disc with DTS 5.1 Master Audio my processor shows that it is receiving the 5.1 signal but it is sending 7.1 channels of audio.



What title(s)? Some movies have this fake 7.1 thing going on.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22879164
> 
> 
> Same here but two A5s.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Should be plenty of power. Biamped P2s seems like overkill.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22877171
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I am a little confused by this. I am in the middle of building my Theater, and I will be utilizing a rack that is mounted in the wall. For my front speakers my plan was to bi-amp each of my S8s with one P2 for each speaker. From the discussions I have had with dealers and other folks they recommended running Balanced inter-connects to the amps, and then shorter speaker cable as this would maintain the quality of the signal. ( runs from rack about 75ft). For my surrounds and my center I will use a P5 mounted in the rack and run speaker wire from there to the respective speakers.
> 
> 
> I am using Marshall Soundrunner speaker cable (10awg) for the speaker cable and just got my 500ft spool. The interconnects I will be using Mogami balanced (75ft)
> 
> 
> What are your thoughts on this set up?
> 
> 
> Gerard



The issue you could have with longer speaker cable runs is not signal loss, but noise, which is why they are suggesting long balanced runs... which is what balanced cables were designed for - rejecting noise over long cable runs. If your speaker wire is in the walls, you increase the chances of noise due to the electrical AC wiring in the walls. I'd suggest short speaker cables, and long XLRs.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22872490
> 
> 
> In the meantime, I'll read the FAQs and as much of the 1,300 pages of this thread as I can to get up to speed on ARC.
> 
> 
> Since Anthem reads this site, I'll offer the suggestion that they need to expand the owner's manual. It's clear that the many nuances of the unit are not adequately covered in the manual. That is also clear from my conversations with Anthem tech support. For example, ARC is covered in only 4 pages. This thread is proof that ARC is not adequately covered in the manual.
> 
> 
> The Lexicon MC-12HD, a product that is equally complex, has a manual twice as long. A thorough and well organized manual is preferable to having to read through a long thread, that by its very nature, is not organized by topic or subject.



You don't need to read 1300 pages. I would guess that 600 of the pages are HDMI or USB/serial converter issues, and another 600 are look at my ARC results posts










Agree with you about the manual. That Lexicon manual really was a work of art!


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39840#post_22877831
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> I seldom have a conflict with any of your suggestions or ideas but in this case I would not suggest to anyone they use short interconnects and 50 ft speaker cables.
> 
> Unless it is a home theater and you do not really want to hear audiophile sound for your music.
> 
> studlygoorite
> 
> My suggestion would be to use 50 ft Mogami Gold Stage Mic Cable with Neutrik XLR Connectors for your interconnects and a high quality speaker cable of about 3 to 6 feet in length
> 
> Gerald you are absolutely on the right track for a good sounding system. . Follow the dealer recommendation of long interconnects and short high quality speaker cable



Agreed. While I'm sure a good technical argument can be made for this or the other way, I would have said this was the "conventional" wisdom.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22884493
> 
> 
> The issue you could have with longer speaker cable runs is not signal loss, but noise, which is why they are suggesting long balanced runs... which is what balanced cables were designed for - rejecting noise over long cable runs. If your speaker wire is in the walls, you increase the chances of noise due to the electrical AC wiring in the walls. I'd suggest short speaker cables, and long XLRs.



Right, but the assumption is:


1) there is noise present in the first place; and

2) the amps on the receiving end have good common mode noise rejection on their balanced inputs, which I think the Anthems do.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22884524
> 
> 
> Right, but the assumption is:
> 
> 
> 1) there is noise present in the first place; and
> 
> 2) the amps on the receiving end have good common mode noise rejection on their balanced inputs, which I think the Anthems do.



Sorry, but I'm not sure what you're protesting? The OP said his 50' speaker cables are already run in-wall. Anytime you run speaker cable near AC wire, you'll get noise. And with 50' of length in-wall, he probably has at least 4 AC outlets to navigate. Aren't we both saying shorter speaker cables and longer XLR cables are the best solution?


----------



## AVfile

Yes I said "right" so I was agreeing with you but added some caveats. It's not the balanced nature of the cables themselves that make them better but what the amp on the receiving end does with the signals.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22884660
> 
> 
> Yes I said "right" so I was agreeing with you but added some caveats. It's not the balanced nature of the cables themselves that make them better but what the amp on the receiving end does with the signals.



Ah, misunderstood, thanks for clarifying.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I still disagree, but I don't feel strongly enough about it to make a big deal out of it.


The noise environment for interconnects is VERY different from that for speaker cable simply because interconnects carry smaller voltages.


If you are going to run long interconnects, then using balanced interconnect cable is likely the way to go presuming the devices at either end of the cable do the right thing with that.

--Bob


----------



## steven2583

It happens on almost every title I play. I was playing Cars DVD, Disappearance of Alice Creed, and American Pie tonight. The 93 is going to my DNLA(twonky) server on the NAS. I keep my DVD and bluray collection on a DLINK-323 NAS with twonky running on it. I should probably watch a title directly from disc and see if there is any difference. I have one of the firsts D2v that came out on the market. It has the older video board.


Audio is Bitstream


----------



## jerbob

I have a couple of Netflix rentals here "The Lucky One" and "The Five-Year Engagement". They are both encoded with DTS Master Audio 5.1 and they both play back as DTS Master Audio 7.1. I recently watched " Sherlock Holmes" and "Headhunters" with the same result. 5.1 from the source and 7.1 coming out. The previews on all of these discs which are encoded with Dolby Digital 5.1 play back properly. Also streaming movies from Vudu which are encoded as Dolby Digital or Dolby Digital Plus play back properly. It looks now that everything that is encoded as DTS Master Audio 5.1 is playing back as 7.1.


----------



## nrwatson

Could you have a look at my curves







and make any suggestions

Thanks Neale
Doc1.doc 402k .doc file


----------



## jo5507




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22884691
> 
> 
> I still disagree, but I don't feel strongly enough about it to make a big deal out of it.
> 
> 
> The noise environment for interconnects is VERY different from that for speaker cable simply because interconnects carry smaller voltages.
> 
> 
> If you are going to run long interconnects, then using balanced interconnect cable is likely the way to go presuming the devices at either end of the cable do the right thing with that.
> 
> --Bob


I still agree with Bob, but suggest the OP do more research to satisfy himself on the best approach. This issue has been debated forever and there are lot's of gut feel comments and unsupported statements floating around (not suggesting that's the case on this forum, just in general) I would be especially wary of comments from retail sales guy's who may have limited or no actual technical knowledge of the facts and will use lot's of wonderful audiophile descriptions.

Since he already has the speaker cable installed, I'd suggest trying it with short interconnects and see how it sounds. Perhaps you can borrow some long interconnects and try a comparison, recognizing that it's always difficult to reliably compare cables.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22882445
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> I purchased a used 50V almost 2 years ago and have been mostly lurking in this thread ever since. Without the knowledge that I gained from all of you I probably would still be trying to set up ARC. But now I have run into an issue and need some help.
> 
> 
> I have a 7.1 speaker system set up with my processor. My 50V had firmware 2.10 installed on it when I purchased it. Everything was functioning correctly except for the issues that we all had with firmware 2.10. About 4 months ago I installed firmware 3.09 after it became official. Of course then I experienced the low volume on startup bug with the 50V. I contacted Anthem when the bug became a annoyance and they gave me access to the password protected page and told me to install 309c, which I did.
> 
> 
> Now, when bitstreaming a blu-ray disc with DTS 5.1 Master Audio my processor shows that it is receiving the 5.1 signal but it is sending 7.1 channels of audio. And indeed it is, as I have sound coming from my rear speakers. I am not sure which signals are being sent to the rears but I am guessing that it is the side channel signal split and sent to the rears. My mode is set to “none” so no additional modes are being implemented. Also when watching some previews on a disc that are encoded for just the left and right channels I am receiving 7 channels of sound. On the other hand when the source is Dolby Digital 5.1 or Dolby Digital HD 5.1, the proper signal is output. If I stream content from Vudu, in Dolby Digital or Dolby Digital Plus 5.1 the proper signal is output. I have 2 blu-ray players (Oppo 93 and a Sony BDP-790) connected to the 50V at HDMI in 1 and 2 and the results are the same from both of them. I realize that I could use PCM from the blu-ray players and probably correct the problem but I prefer the 50V to do the decoding
> 
> .
> 
> Anyone else experiencing this problem with 309c and a 7 channel set up? I did search this thread and Bob had found that when using 309c and the 6-channel analog input that there was a problem similar to this


 

Please make sure PLIIx is turned off in the setup menu for that particular source you are playing. Its main job is to generate 2 extra channels from an initial 5.1 audio stream.


----------



## dvcdude

I run 7.1 with a 50v and occassionally ran into this problem. I upgraded to 3.09f and no problems since.


----------



## bigdaddy999

Hi all. I have an Anthem D2 that is going to be RMA'd for video board problems. For those of you that have dealt with Anthem from the USA, can you confirm that this is the correct shipping address for their freight-forwarder? The service is being covered by someone else on my behalf, but I wanted to make sure this was the valid address before sending it off!


PARADIGM c/o VANGUARD GLOBAL

308 SONWIL DRIVE

BUFFALO, NY 14225



Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22889443
> 
> 
> I run 7.1 with a 50v and occassionally ran into this problem. I upgraded to 3.09f and no problems since.



Yes, there were a number of additional DTS fixes in V3.09f.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22889596
> 
> 
> Hi all. I have an Anthem D2 that is going to be RMA'd for video board problems. For those of you that have dealt with Anthem from the USA, can you confirm that this is the correct shipping address for their freight-forwarder? The service is being covered by someone else on my behalf, but I wanted to make sure this was the valid address before sending it off!
> 
> 
> PARADIGM c/o VANGUARD GLOBAL
> 
> 308 SONWIL DRIVE
> 
> BUFFALO, NY 14225
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Your best bet is to give Anthem Tech Support a call. Then you'll know for sure.

--Bob


----------



## jerbob




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22888471
> 
> 
> Please make sure PLIIx is turned off in the setup menu for that particular source you are playing. Its main job is to generate 2 extra channels from an initial 5.1 audio stream.


Thanks, but when I check mode status, it shows "None" which confirms that no additional modes are being applied.


----------



## jerbob




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22889443
> 
> 
> I run 7.1 with a 50v and occassionally ran into this problem. I upgraded to 3.09f and no problems since.


Thank you, I'll give 309f a try and post the results.


----------



## p.las

I am running 3.09c .

What are the fixes from that to 3.09f?


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jo5507*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22887992
> 
> 
> I still agree with Bob, but suggest the OP do more research to satisfy himself on the best approach. This issue has been debated forever and there are lot's of gut feel comments and unsupported statements floating around (not suggesting that's the case on this forum, just in general) I would be especially wary of comments from retail sales guy's who may have limited or no actual technical knowledge of the facts and will use lot's of wonderful audiophile descriptions.
> 
> Since he already has the speaker cable installed, I'd suggest trying it with short interconnects and see how it sounds. Perhaps you can borrow some long interconnects and try a comparison, recognizing that it's always difficult to reliably compare cables.



In my application my walls are open and no cable has been run. I too have gotten many informed opinions about running the speaker cable in the wall or running balanced interconnects. After hours of research, and multiple results I reached out to a company that does wiring for recording studios, and musicians. I asked them so many questions that I am surprised they returned my e-mails. In the end they did say that running high quality speaker wire in the wall would be more than sufficient for all speakers. The Balanced Audio option would work very well, but was bit of overkill in the configuration I was going to use. So in the end I have decided that all 4 surrounds and the center will be 10awg speaker wire in the wall.


As for my front right and left channels I am still torn between the long run balanced to the amp and shorter wire to the speaker configuration, and the Speaker wire in the wall.


I am still working on the rest of the room so I just have to let that simmer until I am up to it


Gerard


----------



## obie_fl

Gerard - Here is a hint that has saved me numerous times. Since your walls are open run conduit and lots of it. I have conduit to my front stage, ceiling projector, 4 surrounds and my second row seating platform all from my rack. Makes it easy to switch out cables when needed.


For the record I'm in the speaker wire camp. I like having all my gear in one spot away from my front stage. I'm also of the opinion it is easier to muck up something measured in mV's then it is Volts. I'm aware of the benefits of balanced just don't think it is that big a deal if you run your cables smartly. I also ran dedicated A/C circuits to my rack and projector but not my front stage. I have played with the idea of active speakers and if I do I would run balanced but I wish I had put a dedicated circuit up front. My point being physical location of an amp can be dictated by power availability also.


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22891261
> 
> 
> Gerard - Here is a hint that has saved me numerous times. Since your walls are open run conduit and lots of it. I have conduit to my front stage, ceiling projector, 4 surrounds and my second row seating platform all from my rack. Makes it easy to switch out cables when needed.
> 
> 
> For the record I'm in the speaker wire camp. I like having all my gear in one spot away from my front stage. I'm also of the opinion it is easier to muck up something measured in mV's then it is Volts. I'm aware of the benefits of balanced just don't think it is that big a deal if you run your cables smartly. I also ran dedicated A/C circuits to my rack and projector but not my front stage. I have played with the idea of active speakers and if I do I would run balanced but I wish I had put a dedicated circuit up front. My point being physical location of an amp can be dictated by power availability also.



I actually have five dedicated 20amp lines run to my breaker box and spooled up at the rack with enough of a run so that the two front Anthem amps each have their own line. I have one line to the Rack for the D2v and other sources. Two for the 5 channel amp and can run one more for my sub. One of a few reasons this has turned into almost a year working on this.


----------



## MACCA350

Balanced XLR is designed for long runs and noise inducing environments. By it's nature a balanced connection rejects almost all kinds of noise picked up by cables which standard RCA and zip cord are susceptible to.

It's first defense is the common ground is also a shield in the cable.

Secondly the signal is run along two twisted wires one Hot(+) caries the original signal and one Cold(-) carries an inverted original signal. At the input of the end device is a differential amplifier which only amplifies the difference in the two signals. Since the actual signal is delivered as both + and - it will be amplified. Any noise picked up will be the same on both Hot and Cold(ie it's not inverted on the Cold wire) and are cancelled out at the differential amplifier so almost all noise picked up in the cable is rejected.

Thirdly, due to the combining of Hot and Cold signals in the differential amplifier the signal is increased 2x giving a stronger signal for longer runs.


Cheers


----------



## p.las

hallo.

i need a advice.

i have two M&K mx350mkII subs. on one of the subs , the volume kontrol is brocken. the level are all over the place. but there is a THX fixed gain switch i can use. Så my idea was to use the fixed gain on the "brocken" sub , and level match the other one to that sub.

but how shall i run ARC? isent it a problem that the sub levels are to high , when ARC meassure

any advice is velcome


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ There's a range of output levels that ARC can work with -- basically determined by the volume trim range in the Anthem. So try it. If ARC can't build a solution it will complain.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22890562
> 
> 
> I am running 3.09c .
> 
> What are the fixes from that to 3.09f?



The release notes for V3.09f don't give a lot of details. It reports additional, unspecified DTS fixes as required by DTS, and a bug fix for incorrect output channel count reporting when using the 6-CH Analog input. It reports a known issue that TrueHD 2.0 Bitstream sources will not allow a Surround mode to engage to raise that to more speakers (the processor mistakenly thinks the input is 5.1) -- use LPCM input instead.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22894461
> 
> 
> The release notes for V3.09f don't give a lot of details. It reports additional, unspecified DTS fixes as required by DTS, and a bug fix for incorrect output channel count reporting when using the 6-CH Analog input. It reports a known issue that TrueHD 2.0 Bitstream sources will not allow a Surround mode to engage to raise that to more speakers (the processor mistakenly thinks the input is 5.1) -- use LPCM input instead.
> 
> --Bob



thanks a lot Bob - i will try to run ARC with the new sub level


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Be careful using a "THX" mode in the subwoofer. It may ALSO impose an 80Hz internal crossover in the sub which can not be defeated. I.e., you'll lose the high end of bass frequencies from that sub.


You should be able to test that using the Quick Measure Tool, presuming the volume doesn't go to wildly out of whack when you turn off the "THX" mode. Just see if Quick Measure shows an unexpected roll-off above 80Hz for that Sub compared to not using the "THX" mode.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22894506
> 
> 
> ^ Be careful using a "THX" mode in the subwoofer. It may ALSO impose an 80Hz internal crossover in the sub which can not be defeated. I.e., you'll lose the high end of bass frequencies from that sub.
> 
> 
> You should be able to test that using the Quick Measure Tool, presuming the volume doesn't go to wildly out of whack when you turn off the "THX" mode. Just see if Quick Measure shows an unexpected roll-off above 80Hz for that Sub compared to not using the "THX" mode.
> 
> --Bob



I Will check that. Thanks again


But i am almost sure that it is only affecting the volume, becurse here is a seperat votum for a thx 80/24 filter.


----------



## xMEATx

Can someone post what an ideal quick measure sub chart looks like. I have trouble reading mine or its easier to read the results after I run ARC for me. Is there a better way to see the result, a setting I am missing in the chart settings perhaps? Thanks everyone.


----------



## teachdocs

I finally completed my first real ARC measure and upload. It definitely sounds better, but I do not have the expertise to know what to do with these graphs. Could someone help? Thanks!


These are the Music config graphs:
 
 
 
 


Movie config graphs:


----------



## thestewman

^

I would try moving the subwoofer to eliminate the deep dip at 50Hz and just below 30Hz.. You can use the Quick Measure in ARC to assist .


And maybe reduce the high frequency setup in your targets from 10,000 Hz to a lower frequency to allow ARC to provide more boost to your sub woofer.

Do that and recalculate and see if it helps. If it does not just do mot upload the new settings.


----------



## teachdocs

Unfortunately, the sub is not moveable. It is built in under the daybed as seen in my photos.

So, I must come up with another solution if possible.

I tried the targets at 5000K but no difference on the low end.

Maybe there is something I can so in the advanced target section, LFE crossover settings, or on the actual sub settings.

I have read for hours and hours thru hundreds of these posts, but now I am just starting to learn enough to be dangerous.

Thanks for your ideas!

Any others?


----------



## dmusoke


The low end of your surrounds also roll off way too early as well. A positioning is in order as well.

 

As for your sub, do you have a picture of how its placed in the room?


----------



## AV_mike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *teachdocs*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22898959
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, the sub is not moveable. It is built in under the daybed as seen in my photos.
> 
> So, I must come up with another solution if possible.
> 
> I tried the targets at 5000K but no difference on the low end.
> 
> Maybe there is something I can so in the advanced target section, LFE crossover settings, or on the actual sub settings.
> 
> I have read for hours and hours thru hundreds of these posts, but now I am just starting to learn enough to be dangerous.
> 
> Thanks for your ideas!
> 
> Any others?



You have manually set your sub to begin rolling off at 120Hz in the advanced section, why? Go back in and change it back to Auto.

With the surrounds, as already said, they need to be repositioned to get a bit more boundary gain, if possible.

Regards, Mike.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *teachdocs*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22898959
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, the sub is not moveable. It is built in under the daybed as seen in my photos.
> 
> So, I must come up with another solution if possible.
> 
> I tried the targets at 5000K but no difference on the low end.
> 
> Maybe there is something I can so in the advanced target section, LFE crossover settings, or on the actual sub settings.
> 
> I have read for hours and hours thru hundreds of these posts, but now I am just starting to learn enough to be dangerous.
> 
> Thanks for your ideas!
> 
> Any others?



At those bass frequencies, even inches matter. You can't shift the sub at all? Not even rotating it in place? That huge dip in the sub response is really clobbering your bass. You might be able to tame some of it with addition of bass treatments on the walls (which deaden bass frequency reflections and thus reduce the standing waves resulting in the cancellation dip), but really the best solution here is to reposition the sub so that it couples better to the geometry of the room.


Does your sub offer any adjustments that alter its bass output -- e.g., "ports" that can be opened/closed? You may have it set incorrectly.

--Bob


----------



## Emosewa09

EDITED FOLLOW -UP -- I talked to Nick at Anthem, and below are his responses.



As always, I greatly appreciate any responses and help! My question is about the record functions on the D2v. I received an ambiguous and muddled response from Anthem tech support, because the tech guy had not used the record functions. I believe one of his statements, quoted below, is erroneous, but he admitted he has never tried these functions. I also understand that copy protection makes any of the below DOA, so the below questions are for sources, like regular TV, that are not copy protected.


The manual says (page 50) that "record. . .allows you to record sources independently of what is selected in other paths. Composite and S-Video, and fixed-level analog audio outputs are available for two recorders. . . Analog audio record output has a signal only if L/R analog audio is connected or when Main is copied. . . . Zone 2 and 3: The source selector can be the same or different from the source selected in other paths. Zone 2 and Zone 3 each have outputs for a TV and 2-channel audio. To listen to a source that is not connected via L/R analog audio, you must copy it from Main."


(1) My interpretation of the above is that I can connect a DVD-R recorder, using either the TAPE or VCR S-Video or composite connections on the back of the unit, and using the RECORD button on the front. And I can send a signal to the DVD-R for recording, using analog connections, say from a Tivo. At the same time, I can also watch and listen to an entirely different source in MAIN, say from DVD, Blu-Ray or a comcast box.


Is that correct? Yes, that is correct.


In addition, since there is only one RECORD button on the front, I assume -- but the manual is not clear -- that the TAPE and VCR connections, while they can go to two recorders, receive the same and identical signal.


Is that correct? Yes, that is correct. Also note that tape and VCR can send signals to each other, so you can record from one recorder to another.


NOTE -- the Anthem tech support guy said that RECORD only works with audio and not video. That statement must be incorrect, based both on the manual, and the physical connections on the unit.


(2) I also interpret the manual to say that I can connect *TWO* DVD-R recorders, using the tape connection and Zone 2 or 3, and could record from two sources independently, say from Tivo #1 and Tivo #2, while watching and listening to a different source, i.e. a third source, such as DVD, in MAIN.


Is that correct? Yes, that is correct, with one clarification. The tape/VCR outs are at line level. The zone has a volume control, so Nick advised turning the Zone 2 or 3 to 0 db, especially if the recording level can't be adjusted on teh recorder.


(3) I also understand that S-Video from a recorder or any other source will be upscaled and sent to the display via HDMI. But composite is not upscaled, and a composite signal must be sent to a display via a composite output. I also assume that composite is not upscaled via component.


HOWEVER, if a DVD Recorder can take an composite input, and send it out as a component output, then that component signal could be upscaled to HDMI and sent to a display via HDMI.



Is that correct? Yes, that is correct.


Many thanks as always for your help!


----------



## thestewman

^

Yikes !

You want to take a $9000 Anthem D2v and record composite or s-video ? Your would get poor quality video even with upscaling from any of your sources,


Is there such a thing as a DVD disc recorder that can record video direct to disc ?


The most used method of recording Over The Air video is via USB or Firewire from your cable box or other source to a computer running the appropriate software

and then storing the video in a usable format such as AVI or MP4 etc to a hard drive.


I cannot answer your questions above as I do not know anyone who has tried recording multiple low quality video or even a single low quality source.

*Most important Inserting the D2v would complicate DRM problems.*


Recording direct to disc also is very undesirable as you cannot monitor what is being recorded like you can audio. So the failure rate is high.


If you have a Comcast box they provide Firewire video out which can be recorded. You can find the method (CapDVHS ) on the internet.

There are units called DVD Recorders which do not use a disc but allow conversion so a video file can be recorded to a hard drive


----------



## Emosewa09

All of my questions remain. They are valid questions, since the D2v EXPLICITLY is designed to allow for the use of video recorders. I just want to clarify precisely how it works in that regard -- how it works as a preamp and switching device.


I'm not looking for the D2v to upscale or actually improve a DVD-R recording, and I didn't say that. I only want to clarify how it passes the signals -- see my first posting.


To respond to thestewman, there are no DVD Recorders available in the United States or the UK that record either digitally direct to a DVD-R or use HDMI for that purpose. The power of the Hollywood and movie lobby has blocked that -- as well as Blu-Ray recorders that can be part of an AV system. For the foreseeable future -- at least for the next five years if not longer -- ANALOG DVD Recorders are the only game in town outside of using a computer, as thestewman explained.


Whether DVD Recorders make poor recorders is in the eye of the beholder. IMHO, the recording quality is actually pretty good, even when viewed on a 65" HD plasma. Others may say the quality is cr*p. Regardless, it is the only way to permanently archive recordings on discs.


And that is what I do -- record on DVD-Rs for about 35 cents per disc. I really don't want to fill up hard drives with recordings, nor deal with the PC issues, firewire, etc


So if anyone can respond to my questions about how the D2v works as a switching device and preamp for recorders, I'd greatly appreciate it.


----------



## jerbob




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22889443
> 
> 
> I run 7.1 with a 50v and occassionally ran into this problem. I upgraded to 3.09f and no problems since.



Okay, I have corrected some of the problem I had bitstreaming DTS HD Master Audio 5.1 from my Oppo 93 to my 50V and 7.1 coming out. Another classic case of “OPERATOR ERROR”.


I installed firmware 309f but I still had the problem. After a couple of hours of changing cables, reviewing setting etc., I noticed that over the last 2 years for some reason I had set the DVD1 mode presets to “None”. Apparently these settings had no adverse effects when I was running firmware 2.10 and 3.09 but became a problem when I installed 309c or 309f. I changed those presets to “Last Used” and problem solved. DTS HD Master Audio now plays properly if I use HDMI2 out of the Oppo 93. I will post the problem I am having with HDMI1 out of the Oppo if I can’t figure it out today.


I am not sure if I understand how these settings adversely affected the playback, especially since everything was fine before I first installed 309c but right now almost everything is working properly.


Thanks to all who offered suggestions.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22900371
> 
> 
> All of my questions remain. They are valid questions, since the D2v EXPLICITLY is designed to allow for the use of video recorders. I just want to clarify precisely how it works in that regard -- how it works as a preamp and switching device.
> 
> 
> I'm not looking for the D2v to upscale or actually improve a DVD-R recording, and I didn't say that. I only want to clarify how it passes the signals -- see my first posting.
> 
> 
> To respond to thestewman, there are no DVD Recorders available in the United States or the UK that record either digitally direct to a DVD-R or use HDMI for that purpose. The power of the Hollywood and movie lobby has blocked that -- as well as Blu-Ray recorders that can be part of an AV system. For the foreseeable future -- at least for the next five years if not longer -- ANALOG DVD Recorders are the only game in town outside of using a computer, as thestewman explained.
> 
> 
> Whether DVD Recorders make poor recorders is in the eye of the beholder. IMHO, the recording quality is actually pretty good, even when viewed on a 65" HD plasma. Others may say the quality is cr*p. Regardless, it is the only way to permanently archive recordings on discs.
> 
> 
> And that is what I do -- record on DVD-Rs for about 35 cents per disc. I really don't want to fill up hard drives with recordings, nor deal with the PC issues, firewire, etc
> 
> 
> So if anyone can respond to my questions about how the D2v works as a switching device and preamp for recorders, I'd greatly appreciate it.



What is your DVD- R recording device ?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22900532
> 
> 
> I noticed that over the last 2 years for some reason I had set the DVD1 mode presets to “None”. Apparently these settings had no adverse effects when I was running firmware 2.10 and 3.09 but became a problem when I installed 309c or 309f. I changed those presets to “Last Used” and problem solved.



It looks like Anthem partially addressed one of my complaints in some recent firmware, that the LAST USED setting was not working across power cycles in older firmware. I'm sorry but I don't know if this has been fixed fully. I would need to test it again, but lately I have noticed strange behavior with it remembering modes I never selected and the MODE status button not even showing the correct mode.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22900371
> 
> 
> All of my questions remain. They are valid questions, since the D2v EXPLICITLY is designed to allow for the use of video recorders. I just want to clarify precisely how it works in that regard -- how it works as a preamp and switching device.
> 
> 
> I'm not looking for the D2v to upscale or actually improve a DVD-R recording, and I didn't say that. I only want to clarify how it passes the signals -- see my first posting.
> 
> 
> To respond to thestewman, there are no DVD Recorders available in the United States or the UK that record either digitally direct to a DVD-R or use HDMI for that purpose. The power of the Hollywood and movie lobby has blocked that -- as well as Blu-Ray recorders that can be part of an AV system. For the foreseeable future -- at least for the next five years if not longer -- ANALOG DVD Recorders are the only game in town outside of using a computer, as thestewman explained.
> 
> 
> Whether DVD Recorders make poor recorders is in the eye of the beholder. IMHO, the recording quality is actually pretty good, even when viewed on a 65" HD plasma. Others may say the quality is cr*p. Regardless, it is the only way to permanently archive recordings on discs.
> 
> 
> And that is what I do -- record on DVD-Rs for about 35 cents per disc. I really don't want to fill up hard drives with recordings, nor deal with the PC issues, firewire, etc
> 
> 
> So if anyone can respond to my questions about how the D2v works as a switching device and preamp for recorders, I'd greatly appreciate it.



Where is Nick when you need him ...


Have you tried searching for posts in this thread by "Nick @ Anthem"? He has discussed this before, plus some of your other questions.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22893406
> 
> 
> Balanced XLR is designed for long runs and noise inducing environments. By it's nature a balanced connection rejects almost all kinds of noise picked up by cables which standard RCA and zip cord are susceptible to.
> 
> It's first defense is the common ground is also a shield in the cable.
> 
> Secondly the signal is run along two twisted wires one Hot(+) caries the original signal and one Cold(-) carries an inverted original signal. At the input of the end device is a differential amplifier which only amplifies the difference in the two signals. Since the actual signal is delivered as both + and - it will be amplified. Any noise picked up will be the same on both Hot and Cold(ie it's not inverted on the Cold wire) and are cancelled out at the differential amplifier so almost all noise picked up in the cable is rejected.
> 
> Thirdly, due to the combining of Hot and Cold signals in the differential amplifier the signal is increased 2x giving a stronger signal for longer runs.



I had previously posted about common mode noise rejection (CMNR) without explaining it, so thank you for that.


The pros that were consulted in the studio will likely stick to the old "balanced for long runs, otherwise overkill" statement. I would argue, what's good for long runs is also good for short runs (but to a lesser extent obviously). With the low price of balanced cables from BlueJeans and the rest of the internet, it is hardly worth discussing. If your amp has balanced inputs, and your preamp has balanced outputs, just use them and forget about it.


By the way, some amps do the summing on the input, and some amps are balanced all the way to the output. In the latter case if you are using single-ended RCAs you might be using only half your amplifier! The other possibility is the signal goes through a very basic op-amp circuit to create "fake balanced" so the amp can operate fully, but with slightly reduced sound quality.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22894461
> 
> 
> The release notes for V3.09f don't give a lot of details. It reports additional, unspecified DTS fixes as required by DTS, and a bug fix for incorrect output channel count reporting when using the 6-CH Analog input. It reports a known issue that TrueHD 2.0 Bitstream sources will not allow a Surround mode to engage to raise that to more speakers (the processor mistakenly thinks the input is 5.1) -- use LPCM input instead.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I think you said the latter bug was introduced in 3.09f and did not exist in 3.09c?


If that's the case, I would rather not have specified bug than "unspecified fixes"


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22900788
> 
> 
> I had previously posted about common mode noise rejection (CMNR) without explaining it, so thank you for that.
> 
> 
> The pros that were consulted in the studio will likely stick to the old "balanced for long runs, otherwise overkill" statement. I would argue, what's good for long runs is also good for short runs (but to a lesser extent obviously). With the low price of balanced cables from BlueJeans and the rest of the internet, it is hardly worth discussing. If your amp has balanced inputs, and your preamp has balanced outputs, just use them and forget about it.
> 
> 
> By the way, some amps do the summing on the input, and some amps are balanced all the way to the output. In the latter case if you are using single-ended RCAs you might be using only half your amplifier! The other possibility is the signal goes through a very basic op-amp circuit to create "fake balanced" so the amp can operate fully, but with slightly reduced sound quality.



+1


Cost of an excellent Mogami 25 ft balanced cable $139.95


Cost of a quality 25 ft audiophile speaker cable $1800.00


----------



## jerbob

I am still having a problem that I can’t seem to resolve between my Anthem 50v and my Oppo 93.


I am using firmware 309f on the 50v and the Oppo has the latest firmware. When I try to watch a blu-ray that has DTS HD Master Audio as the audio source and I am using HDMI1 out from the Oppo connected to HDMI1 in on the Anthem I have the following problem. The previews and any pre movie spots that are using Dolby Digital all play correctly. When I go into setup for the feature and I select DTS HD Master Audio I have picture but no sound. When I check the status of the 50v it tells me that it is receiving “no signal” or “no digital signal”, but most times it shows that the signal is “Anlg-DSP”. If I check my DVD1 Source Setup (the input that I am using) in the 50v, my audio in selection is “Dig HDMI”.

Now the kicker, if I connect the output to HDMI2 on the Oppo and change nothing else, everything plays correctly, including the DTS HD Master Audio. Even though I am still telling the Oppo that my primary HDMI output is HDMI1.


I have 2 other Blu-ray players (a Sony 790 and a older LG 390) and they both play the discs correctly.


I suppose this is not a huge problem as I am using “Source Direct” to output video from the Oppo and letting the 50v do the processing. So I really don’t need to use HDMI1 out from the Oppo to utilize the Marvell QDEO video processor that is only available from the Oppo’s HDMI1 output.


But my question is still why?


----------



## Emosewa09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22900760
> 
> 
> Where is Nick when you need him ...



I talked to Nick and modified my original posting (above) with his responses. To respond to another question, the DVD Recorder I use is a Toshiba. It is making SD recordings of any HD recording. But as I noted, the recording quality is actually pretty good IMHO. But that is in the eye of the beholder.


----------



## 04rex

Hey guys, looking at possibly getting the AVM 50v. Quick question, I have 2 Paradigm Sub 12 subs and i have PBK. I noticed that the AVM 50v has 2 sub outputs but is stated at 7.1. If i connect each sub to each output, does ARC calibrate each sub individually then as a set? How does it calibrate the subs?


Since the AVM 50v has the full version of ARC, is there any need to run PBK for each sub?


Thanks!


----------



## obie_fl

Nope one sub as far as the 50v or ARC knows. I believe convention wisdom around here is to run PBK first.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *04rex*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22903423
> 
> 
> Hey guys, looking at possibly getting the AVM 50v. Quick question, I have 2 Paradigm Sub 12 subs and i have PBK. I noticed that the AVM 50v has 2 sub outputs but is stated at 7.1. If i connect each sub to each output, does ARC calibrate each sub individually then as a set? How does it calibrate the subs?
> 
> 
> Since the AVM 50v has the full version of ARC, is there any need to run PBK for each sub?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



ARC does not calibrate each sub individually. There are plenty of prior posts answering your exact question and the procedure to follow. Basically, ARC will do an average. Use the forum search here and search for ARC and 2 subs and you'll likely see Bob's posts with a definitive answer and best practice on that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *04rex*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22903423
> 
> 
> Hey guys, looking at possibly getting the AVM 50v. Quick question, I have 2 Paradigm Sub 12 subs and i have PBK. I noticed that the AVM 50v has 2 sub outputs but is stated at 7.1. If i connect each sub to each output, does ARC calibrate each sub individually then as a set? How does it calibrate the subs?
> 
> 
> Since the AVM 50v has the full version of ARC, is there any need to run PBK for each sub?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



There are actually FOUR Sub outputs -- 2 RCA and 2 XLR -- and they all output the identical signal, ignoring the standard +6dB hotter for the XLR outputs. I.e., any settings/calibration in the AVM 50v affect all 4 of those outputs identically -- no separate calibration.


There is certainly advantage to doing preliminary setup with 1 Sub at a time powered in aid of finding better positioning for each sub and seeing what you might have to deal with in room problems. But for the FINAL Room Correction solution what's really needed is for ARC to hear all the Subs playing simultaneously and correct their COMBINED output. This is necessary because of the possibility of resonance or cancellation between the Subs.


Anyway, that's how it works. If you want to use PBK to do preliminary correction for your subs individually, there's no problem with that. Just be sure to do the ARC setup LAST.


For the distance setting for the 2 Subs use the average of their distance from ARC mic position #1.


For the preliminary volume adjustment for the 2 subs, the usual Rule of Thumb with 2 subs is to set each to 72dB SPL (one sub powered at a time). When played together that will produce close to a combined 75dB SPL.


For the polarity/phase adjustment for the 2 subs, the Rule of Thumb is, again, to power one at a time and adjust each in turn for best match with the Left Front speaker. This has to be done using controls on each sub, as the controls in the AVM 50v setup menu will alter the 2 sub outputs identically and what you need is separate adjustment. When both are matched to Left Front then they are also likely matched to each other as well.


Note that since ARC hears both subs playing together it is necessary to set the Sub distance, the individual Sub polarity/phase, and the individual Sub volume knob adjustments *BEFORE* doing your ARC Measurement pass.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22901724
> 
> 
> I am still having a problem that I can’t seem to resolve between my Anthem 50v and my Oppo 93.
> 
> 
> I am using firmware 309f on the 50v and the Oppo has the latest firmware. When I try to watch a blu-ray that has DTS HD Master Audio as the audio source and I am using HDMI1 out from the Oppo connected to HDMI1 in on the Anthem I have the following problem. The previews and any pre movie spots that are using Dolby Digital all play correctly. When I go into setup for the feature and I select DTS HD Master Audio I have picture but no sound. When I check the status of the 50v it tells me that it is receiving “no signal” or “no digital signal”, but most times it shows that the signal is “Anlg-DSP”. If I check my DVD1 Source Setup (the input that I am using) in the 50v, my audio in selection is “Dig HDMI”.
> 
> Now the kicker, if I connect the output to HDMI2 on the Oppo and change nothing else, everything plays correctly, including the DTS HD Master Audio. Even though I am still telling the Oppo that my primary HDMI output is HDMI1.
> 
> 
> I have 2 other Blu-ray players (a Sony 790 and a older LG 390) and they both play the discs correctly.
> 
> 
> I suppose this is not a huge problem as I am using “Source Direct” to output video from the Oppo and letting the 50v do the processing. So I really don’t need to use HDMI1 out from the Oppo to utilize the Marvell QDEO video processor that is only available from the Oppo’s HDMI1 output.
> 
> 
> But my question is still why?



In Setup > Source Setup for the Source definition you are using with the OPPO 93, confirm that Auto Dig is set to NO. Auto Dig will switch the Source to using ANALOG audio input if it thinks the digital audio input has gone away. The output handshake on HDMI 1 from the 93 is a multi-stage handshake due to the presence of the QDEO video processor in that signal path. Evidently the AVM 50v is detecting the digital audio going away and is not spotting it coming back so it switches you to Analog audio input and does not recover.


HDMI 2 output does not go through that video processor so its handshake is different (simpler).


If that doesn't cure it, then confirm that you do not have BOTH HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 connected at the same time from the OPPO 93. With both connected, the audio available on HDMI 1 output is limited.


Also try HDMI Audio LPCM output from the OPPO 93 and see if that works for you.


Essentially this is a form of HDMI handshake failure, complicated by the multi-stage handshake. As with *ALL* cases of HDMI handshake failure, the thing you should suspect first is that you have an HDMI cabling quality problem.


Try this. Temporarily set the OPPO 93 to 1080i output with Deep Color OFF. If 1080i works (no audio problem) but 1080p still fails, then that's pretty strong evidence that something is marginal in your HDMI cabling. Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so the problem could be in the cable from the AVM 50v to your display rather than in the cable from the OPPO to the AVM 50v.


Consider the HDMI signal path from end to end. If you have any adapters, wall plates, daisy-chained cables, HDMI switches or other HDMI processing gizmos anywhere in that signal path, then that alone could be the cause of your problem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22900837
> 
> 
> Bob, I think you said the latter bug was introduced in 3.09f and did not exist in 3.09c?
> 
> 
> If that's the case, I would rather not have specified bug than "unspecified fixes"



I think it likely the "known issue" is in 3.09c as well. I'm the one who found this bug, but I didn't check it until I was already on 3.09f -- TrueHD 2.0 tracks are pretty rare these days.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22900532
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dvcdude*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22889443
> 
> 
> I run 7.1 with a 50v and occassionally ran into this problem. I upgraded to 3.09f and no problems since.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, I have corrected some of the problem I had bitstreaming DTS HD Master Audio 5.1 from my Oppo 93 to my 50V and 7.1 coming out. Another classic case of “OPERATOR ERROR”.
> 
> 
> I installed firmware 309f but I still had the problem. After a couple of hours of changing cables, reviewing setting etc., I noticed that over the last 2 years for some reason I had set the DVD1 mode presets to “None”. Apparently these settings had no adverse effects when I was running firmware 2.10 and 3.09 but became a problem when I installed 309c or 309f. I changed those presets to “Last Used” and problem solved. DTS HD Master Audio now plays properly if I use HDMI2 out of the Oppo 93. I will post the problem I am having with HDMI1 out of the Oppo if I can’t figure it out today.
> 
> 
> I am not sure if I understand how these settings adversely affected the playback, especially since everything was fine before I first installed 309c but right now almost everything is working properly.
> 
> 
> Thanks to all who offered suggestions.
Click to expand...


Try changing the setting BACK to NONE and see if the problem returns. The problem could simply have been a small case of data corruption in the memorized settings, exposed by the firmware update.

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

Anybody using the Sony BDP S790 with the 4k upsampling? Do you have to have a 4k display and preamp or can you get ANY benefit from using one now with a native 10800p screen and projector via the D2v?


Also, why is Anthem still showing V2.10 as the latest firmware for the D2v? What is the latest firmware for the D2v. I think I'm running 3.09 on mine which has been upgraded to the 3D model. I guess the D2v will never see a 4k upgrade right? Perhaps, that will be only for the D3 assuming that's the next model.


Thanks ALL.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900_100#post_22904743
> 
> 
> Anybody using the Sony BDP S790 with the 4k upsampling? Do you have to have a 4k display and preamp or can you get ANY benefit from using one now with a native 10800p screen and projector via the D2v?
> 
> 
> Also, why is Anthem still showing V2.10 as the latest firmware for the D2v? What is the latest firmware for the D2v. I think I'm running 3.09 on mine which has been upgraded to the 3D model. I guess the D2v will never see a 4k upgrade right? Perhaps, that will be only for the D3 assuming that's the next model.
> 
> 
> Thanks ALL.



I LOVE the S790.


Upscaling is even better than Anthem - D2 - I run the S790 direct to the PJ on a 13ft Screen.


I use the 2nd HDMI Port for hi-def Audio to the D2.


YES - It will *NOT Scale to 4K without a 4K display* - but even at 2K it is the BEST I HAVE SEEN.

I play many LOW-DEF DVDs and it is GREAT.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900#post_22900752
> 
> 
> It looks like Anthem partially addressed one of my complaints in some recent firmware, that the LAST USED setting was not working across power cycles in older firmware. I'm sorry but I don't know if this has been fixed fully. I would need to test it again, but lately I have noticed strange behavior with it remembering modes I never selected and the MODE status button not even showing the correct mode.



I tested the LAST USED mode preset again with a standard DD5.1 source and it is not working at all now (3.09c). It doesn't even recall the mode across Input selections - the mode keeps reverting to NONE after I select PLIIx. This is worse than before when I reported it was not recalling the mode across power cycles.


In addition when trying to change the mode from NONE the first time you press the button to scroll to the next mode it stays in NONE after a brief delay and you have to press the button again.


----------



## 04rex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22904279
> 
> 
> There are actually FOUR Sub outputs -- 2 RCA and 2 XLR -- and they all output the identical signal, ignoring the standard +6dB hotter for the XLR outputs. I.e., any settings/calibration in the AVM 50v affect all 4 of those outputs identically -- no separate calibration.
> 
> 
> There is certainly advantage to doing preliminary setup with 1 Sub at a time powered in aid of finding better positioning for each sub and seeing what you might have to deal with in room problems. But for the FINAL Room Correction solution what's really needed is for ARC to hear all the Subs playing simultaneously and correct their COMBINED output. This is necessary because of the possibility of resonance or cancellation between the Subs.
> 
> 
> Anyway, that's how it works. If you want to use PBK to do preliminary correction for your subs individually, there's no problem with that. Just be sure to do the ARC setup LAST.
> 
> 
> For the distance setting for the 2 Subs use the average of their distance from ARC mic position #1.
> 
> 
> For the preliminary volume adjustment for the 2 subs, the usual Rule of Thumb with 2 subs is to set each to 72dB SPL (one sub powered at a time). When played together that will produce close to a combined 75dB SPL.
> 
> 
> For the polarity/phase adjustment for the 2 subs, the Rule of Thumb is, again, to power one at a time and adjust each in turn for best match with the Left Front speaker. This has to be done using controls on each sub, as the controls in the AVM 50v setup menu will alter the 2 sub outputs identically and what you need is separate adjustment. When both are matched to Left Front then they are also likely matched to each other as well.
> 
> 
> Note that since ARC hears both subs playing together it is necessary to set the Sub distance, the individual Sub polarity/phase, and the individual Sub volume knob adjustments *BEFORE* doing your ARC Measurement pass.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, so I understand, I would do the polarity/phase, average distance and volume adjustment for each sub, then do PBK, then do ARC?


Is there an easy way to setup polarity/phase for the subs? In case it matters, most likely each sub will be beside each front speaker.


Thanks!


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *04rex*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22905431
> 
> 
> Ok, so I understand, I would do the polarity/phase, average distance and volume adjustment for each sub, then do PBK, then do ARC?
> 
> 
> Is there an easy way to setup polarity/phase for the subs? In case it matters, most likely each sub will be beside each front speaker.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



After your first PBK run check the graphs for any major dips or peaks in the frequency area of about 20-160 Hz.

If there is, you made need to move the subs and run Quick Measure with PBK to flatten the peaks and dips before actually uploading PBK to the subs


----------



## nrwatson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39870#post_22886377
> 
> 
> Could you have a look at my curves
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and make any suggestions
> 
> Thanks Neale
> Doc1.doc 402k .doc file



Any comments would be appreciated very new at this

Thanks Neale


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22908504
> 
> 
> Any comments would be appreciated very new at this
> 
> Thanks Neale



Neale


Welcome to the Anthem users forum page

You posted the graphs without the Calculated curve which would be a Green line.

And please post your Targets.

If possible before you do, you might want to move your Rt and Lt front speakers to eliminate the rise in the lower frequencies.

A little change in which direction they are pointing or moving away from a wall or corner. Only an inch or two maybe enough.

You can use the Quick Measure feature to experiment

Check that you have the sub woofer setup correctly as it shows a rapid drop off below 60Hz

Try posting your graphs by saving them as a jpg instead of a doc.

You can use the Paint program in Windows. Then download them to the forum from the image icon in the Reply Toolbar on the forum page


----------



## steven2583

I've been looking at the power supply in the D2v. I'm thinking of upgrading some of the regulator to a Belleson superpower regulator. There are quite a few regulator chips in a 220 package. LM1084, LD29300v50, LM2990, and 75901. Does anyone know what one feeds the AK 4395 DACs on the daughter board by chance?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39900_100#post_22909709
> 
> 
> I've been looking at the power supply in the D2v. I'm thinking of upgrading some of the regulator to a Belleson superpower regulator. There are quite a few regulator chips in a 220 package. LM1084, LD29300v50, LM2990, and 75901. Does anyone know what one feeds the AK 4395 DACs on the daughter board by chance?


*DO NOT CHANGE ANYTHING IS MY TWO CENT RECOMMENDATION*


----------



## danielo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22909807
> 
> *DO NOT CHANGE ANYTHING IS MY TWO CENT RECOMMENDATION*



What would your recommendation be for 4 cents ?


Daniel.


----------



## jerbob




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22904291
> 
> 
> In Setup > Source Setup for the Source definition you are using with the OPPO 93, confirm that Auto Dig is set to NO. Auto Dig will switch the Source to using ANALOG audio input if it thinks the digital audio input has gone away. The output handshake on HDMI 1 from the 93 is a multi-stage handshake due to the presence of the QDEO video processor in that signal path. Evidently the AVM 50v is detecting the digital audio going away and is not spotting it coming back so it switches you to Analog audio input and does not recover.
> 
> 
> HDMI 2 output does not go through that video processor so its handshake is different (simpler).
> 
> 
> If that doesn't cure it, then confirm that you do not have BOTH HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 connected at the same time from the OPPO 93. With both connected, the audio available on HDMI 1 output is limited.
> 
> 
> Also try HDMI Audio LPCM output from the OPPO 93 and see if that works for you.
> 
> 
> Essentially this is a form of HDMI handshake failure, complicated by the multi-stage handshake. As with *ALL* cases of HDMI handshake failure, the thing you should suspect first is that you have an HDMI cabling quality problem.
> 
> 
> Try this. Temporarily set the OPPO 93 to 1080i output with Deep Color OFF. If 1080i works (no audio problem) but 1080p still fails, then that's pretty strong evidence that something is marginal in your HDMI cabling. Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so the problem could be in the cable from the AVM 50v to your display rather than in the cable from the OPPO to the AVM 50v.
> 
> 
> Consider the HDMI signal path from end to end. If you have any adapters, wall plates, daisy-chained cables, HDMI switches or other HDMI processing gizmos anywhere in that signal path, then that alone could be the cause of your problem.
> 
> 
> --Bob



I always had Auto Dig set to NO in the past, but I had turned it ON a couple of days ago while trying to find the problem. Turned it back to OFF and it did not make a difference. Still no sound when using DTS HD Master Audio.


I am only using one HDMI out at a time


Okay, that works.


Yes, 1080i works with Deep Color OFF. Then I started to restore my original settings one at a time to see when the problem returned. Turned on BITSTREAM ok, turned on SOURCE DIRECT ok, turned on Deep Color 30 BITS DITHERED and no sound. YOU ARE THE MAN!!!


I doubt if the cable from the OPPO to the 50v is bad as I had a couple of other HDMI cables here that I tried in place of that one with the same results. But the cable out of the 50v to my Kuro display is probably 4 or 5 years old and could be the problem. I don’t have another HDMI cable here long enough to replace that one, so I ordered a new one.


Thanks to you and everyone else who tried to help. I don’t know what we did before we had resources like all of you to turn to.


----------



## jerbob




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22904297
> 
> 
> Try changing the setting BACK to NONE and see if the problem returns. The problem could simply have been a small case of data corruption in the memorized settings, exposed by the firmware update.
> 
> --Bob



Changed the setting back to NONE and again I am receiving 7.1 channels when selecting DTS HD Master Audio 5.1. Changed the settings back to LAST USED and then the 50v sends the proper output 5.1.


----------



## steven2583

Unless you heard a modified component before your two or four cents needs to be discounted. I have quite a few machines that have been modified. I have a Jolida 302b tube amp. Attenuator, and a few other changes. It's sounds much better then the stock. I actually had my D2v modified already. The right and left channel op amps were change to BB OPA627 and the Attenuator chips on right/left channel changed. The D2v was improved with a more detailed sound and is a lot clearer. Recently I modified my Schiit BiFrost by changing the regulator to the DAC chip to a Belleson superpower regulator. I was amazed the difference it made. First time I actually heard a MP3 sound so good. Usually taking a lossless file and changing t o an MP3 the first thing you lose is the air the 3 dimensional affect. Soundstage got wider and deeper. Music is more dynamic and flows really really. It became very involving. I really enjoy listening to my 2nd system now. I want the D2v to be as involving. I compared it to my D2v though the same source, amp, and speaker. The Anthem won out by a hair mostly because of ARC but it isn't quite involving. I have a mid range drop out in my room that ARC fixes and bass is tighter. I figured I make the same change to my D2v since they use the same family of DAC chips (D2v AK4395 , bifrost AK4396) and I will expect the same type of impovement but probably not as much because D2v has other better electronics.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22910141
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22904297
> 
> 
> Try changing the setting BACK to NONE and see if the problem returns. The problem could simply have been a small case of data corruption in the memorized settings, exposed by the firmware update.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changed the setting back to NONE and again I am receiving 7.1 channels when selecting DTS HD Master Audio 5.1. Changed the settings back to LAST USED and then the 50v sends the proper output 5.1.
Click to expand...

Certainly sounds like a bug. Please write up what you've discovered and email it to Anthem Tech Support to see if they can reproduce it at their end.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater

*Solving the Zone2 and Zone3 analog and MAIN --> COPY limitation with the Anthem 50v and D2v*


Greetings all, I'd previously posted about figuring out a way to get Zone2 and Zone3 audio with sources that are now becoming pure digital with no analog outputs. What I've been trying to accomplish is getting an AppleTV gen2 or gen3 to work in other zones without copying from the Main. The obvious assumption is that the Main zone is playing another source, therefore the Anthem's DACs cannot be used for Zone2 or Zone3 and therefore you can only play an analog source.


If you use a traditional DAC, then you will get your analog (in stereo) but lose your ability to decode the digital signal in the Anthem and also lose multichannel signals. What's needed is a DAC that has digital passthrough and also has analog outs. I've been looking for an economic solution and I've found a ton of good options in case anyone else is looking for the same thing.


There's a complete rundown of DACs with digital passthrough for under $500 on the Poor Audiophile blog: http://pooraudiophile.com/2013/02/five-dacs-with-digital-passthrough-for.html 


It's nice to see a few that have HDMI passthrough plus analog audio out. That's a perfect solution for feeding the main and the other zones.


Now my question: how much of a pain in the neck with HDMI handshaking does it potentially become to insert a solution like this? Will it potentially lead to HDMI handshaking issues because of too many hops (source --> DAC --> Anthem --> display) or will it work just fine if you use shorter HDMI cables?


Thoughts on this?


Thanks,

Theo


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Short is not good for HDMI cables. It can even be worse than too long.


6 feet (2 meters) is about optimal length for an HDMI cable between any two devices. This has to do with the the way the signal equalization is implemented in the HDMI chips to try to make longer cables work better.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22911430
> 
> 
> ^ Short is not good for HDMI cables. It can even be worse than too long.
> 
> 
> 6 feet (2 meters) is about optimal length for an HDMI cable between any two devices. This has to do with the the way the signal equalization is implemented in the HDMI chips to try to make longer cables work better.
> 
> --Bob



Ok, thanks for validating that.


And Bob, that's interesting--I had consistently heard that 6-foot was the length to use but didn't know that it had anything to do with the signal equalization.

I checked out the Octava HDMI switch and it references the "eye" here: http://www.octavainc.com/Clear%20Eye%20difference.htm 


I'm assuming this is what you are talking about and the alteration of that "eye" at different lengths?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22910381
> 
> 
> op amps were change to BB OPA627



Be careful with that, there is such a thing as too much...


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22910141
> 
> 
> Changed the setting back to NONE and again I am receiving 7.1 channels when selecting DTS HD Master Audio 5.1. Changed the settings back to LAST USED and then the 50v sends the proper output 5.1.



If your 50v is like mine there are now two NONE modes - the software gets into bad state where who knows what is going on, as explained in my last post: http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22905163 


Are you able to select NONE again after the first NONE?


----------



## nrwatson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22908869
> 
> 
> Neale
> 
> 
> Welcome to the Anthem users forum page
> 
> You posted the graphs without the Calculated curve which would be a Green line.
> 
> And please post your Targets.
> 
> If possible before you do, you might want to move your Rt and Lt front speakers to eliminate the rise in the lower frequencies.
> 
> A little change in which direction they are pointing or moving away from a wall or corner. Only an inch or two maybe enough.
> 
> You can use the Quick Measure feature to experiment
> 
> Check that you have the sub woofer setup correctly as it shows a rapid drop off below 60Hz
> 
> Try posting your graphs by saving them as a jpg instead of a doc.
> 
> You can use the Paint program in Windows. Then download them to the forum from the image icon in the Reply Toolbar on the forum page



Thanks

Here is my attempt


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22914493
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Here is my attempt



Just a comment on the obvious. Every single time I see an ARC graph, I'm just amazed at where we've come looking at both before and after and what room correction is able to do--especially at the lower frequencies. wow.


----------



## jerbob




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22912519
> 
> 
> If your 50v is like mine there are now two NONE modes - the software gets into bad state where who knows what is going on, as explained in my last post: http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22905163
> 
> 
> Are you able to select NONE again after the first NONE?



Hey AVfile, I’m not sure I understand what you are asking here but no I cannot select NONE again after the first NONE. I’m saying that (for instance) in the DVD1 MODE PRESETS I can set all of the presets to NONE except 2.0 and 2Sur. When I do that and try to play a blu-ray with DTS HD Master Audio 5.1, I receive 7.1 output. If I set the DVD1 MODE PRESETS to LAST USED the DTS HD Master Audio plays properly


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22914493
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Here is my attempt



We need your targets posted as well


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22914988
> 
> 
> Hey AVfile, I’m not sure I understand what you are asking here but no I cannot select NONE again after the first NONE. I’m saying that (for instance) in the DVD1 MODE PRESETS I can set all of the presets to NONE except 2.0 and 2Sur. When I do that and try to play a blu-ray with DTS HD Master Audio 5.1, I receive 7.1 output. If I set the DVD1 MODE PRESETS to LAST USED the DTS HD Master Audio plays properly



With the mode preset set to LAST USED it always goes to 5.1 or whatever the native source format is (as seen on the display) after switching inputs or going to Standby. Pressing the MODE button at this time results in NONE being displayed. Pressing the up/down button should go to the next mode in the list but instead it goes to NONE again. I am wondering if both these "modes" are really NONE or one of them is just shown that way on the display - while something else is going on internally.


----------



## nrwatson

Here goes again Thanks for your time


----------



## Kensmith48

You still need to calculate (green line) and include the Target screen.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960#post_22918732
> 
> 
> Here goes again Thanks for your time



You need to run ARC and run calculate to get the Green calculated line displayed.

Then select target and copy that screen to the Paint program. Use the CTRL and PRTSC keyboard buttons to paste into Paint.


----------



## nrwatson

I did warn you I was new


----------



## Roger Dressler

Mr. Watson,


What kind of speakers are these?


----------



## nrwatson

I have the tag mclaren calliopes


----------



## nrwatson

The fronts are the calliopes with bass unites the rear is calliope without and the central is the calliope central and the side speakers are Tdl which are mounted in the wall


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960#post_22920241
> 
> 
> I did warn you I was new
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . . . .



There are several issues worth checking here.


Most worrisome to me is the precipitous drop off in treble for Left Front from 5KHz to 7KHz. That suggests to me you may have blown the tweeter in that speaker. Another possibility is that custom speaker grill cloth or mounting hardware is blocking the output from the tweeter. Compare to what's going on up there in Right Front.


To test this, play some stereo content (e.g., a CD) with treble components such as cymbals, and set MONO ALL audio Surround mode so the same audio goes to all speakers. Then put your ear up close to the tweeter in Left Front and Right Front to see if the one on Left Front is firing.


That specific concern aside, double check the pointing for Left Front, Right Front, Left Surround and Side Surround. If they are not mounted at seated ear height pay particular attention to their vertical pointing. You may be losing some treble due to directionality issues. The Surrounds can point directly at ARC Mic position #1. The Fronts should NOT point directly at it. The usual Rule of Thumb is to swing the Fronts ("toe in") only about 1/3 of the angle that would take them from pointing to the back wall towards pointing to ARC Mic position #1.


Next you've got a particularly nasty dip around 150Hz for Left Rear. More than ARC can correct -- thus the residual error between the green Calculated curve and the black-dashed Target curve around there. If you have any flexibility to reposition Left Rear, then spending some quality time with the Quick Measure tool (ARC application > Tools menu) will let you see how adjusting that speakers position alters the way its bass output couples to the room. If there are any bass response adjustments on that speaker, check that they aren't set inappropriately. If it is an in-wall speaker, you may need some solid backing material (kind of like a sand-bag) in the wall behind it for proper bass output -- check the installation manual for that model of speaker.


Finally, your Subwoofer is "typical" of subs sold for home theater in that it is only producing good output down to around 30Hz. This is not bad, but it does mean you are losing a whole octave of bass down below that -- the bass you more "feel" than "hear". If you expected your Sub to be good down to 20 or even 15Hz then there may be some response setting on it that needs adjustment. Spending time with the Quick Measure tool can help here as well, as the uncorrected Sub output will vary dramatically according to where it is placed with regard to side walls and corners. The high end output of the Sub is also rolling off a bit too soon. Double-check that any internal Crossover in the Sub itself has either been disabled or that you've cranked it's frequency up as high as possible to get it out of the way as best as possible. ARC does the Crossover processing, so you don't want a control in the Sub artificially limiting its high bass output.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960#post_22920241
> 
> 
> I did warn you I was new


That is not a problem. We all started as newbies


----------



## mlbrand




> Quote:
> Originally posted by Bob Pariseau.
> 
> 
> The Fronts should NOT point directly at it. (ARC Mic position #1)



Bob, can you explain why not? I always thought speaker toe-in was room and speaker dependent. Is there a good ARC reason for not toeing in speakers to point directly at mic position #1?


Thanks,


Mike B.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960#post_22923859
> 
> 
> Bob, can you explain why not? I always thought speaker toe-in was room and speaker dependent. Is there a good ARC reason for not toeing in speakers to point directly at mic position #1?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Mike B.



Yes I too would like to know the answer to this as well please. I didn't realize that the surrounds (5.1 setup myself) need to be turned so there pointing directing at the Mic in position 1. I have my fronts toe'd in to the main listening position but not the surrounds as there slightly toe'd in but not pointing directly at the main seating position, as I have 3 seats along the back of the room and thought that having them turned that radically would draw attention to them from the 2 side seats left and right.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It's just a Rule of Thumb -- empirical guidance that has worked well for others. Try it and see if you, too, like it.

--Bob


----------



## mlbrand

OK, I was worried there might be some technical ARC related reason for it. I have tried different "toe-in" angles before, but it may be time to mess with things again. It seems like every year around this time I get a strong desire to re-calibrate my system, and run ARC again.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960#post_22925074
> 
> 
> ^ It's just a Rule of Thumb -- empirical guidance that has worked well for others. Try it and see if you, too, like it.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22904292
> 
> 
> I think it likely the "known issue" is in 3.09c as well. I'm the one who found this bug, but I didn't check it until I was already on 3.09f -- TrueHD 2.0 tracks are pretty rare these days.
> 
> --Bob



What about PCM or DTS 2.0 tracks? I currently get nothing (i.e. blank characters) displayed in the status area on the front panel. When you press MODE it says "Mode for 2-Channel Input: *No Signal*" (even though there is audio). Tested with CD Audio and JAWS blu-ray.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mlbrand*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960#post_22926818
> 
> 
> OK, I was worried there might be some technical ARC related reason for it. I have tried different "toe-in" angles before, but it may be time to mess with things again. It seems like every year around this time I get a strong desire to re-calibrate my system, and run ARC again.



Typically, you want your speakers toed-in so that the tweaters point to a spot a couple inches behind your listening position.


----------



## studlygoorite

I just toed my S8s out a bit from where I had them and noticed a definitive difference, just a fraction in, maybe one to one and a half feet to the sides of my seat. On another note, I have my D2v back from my 3D upgrade and a new video board was installed, 90% of my HDMI problems are gone and I am now very happy with my unit..........after three years.


----------



## paradigm25


Does your HDMI problems include "Muting" mid-play of Cd's etc. It mutes for me when the TV if OFF. Let me know and I might get the upgrade done, if it fixes it. I have tried lot of other things in the past , and cannot get it to work without muting when TV is OFF. Thanks.


----------



## nrwatson

I am having mine upgraded tomorrow and have been told that this will sort out my problems with HDMI shaking


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960#post_22934721
> 
> 
> Does your HDMI problems include "Muting" mid-play of Cd's etc. It mutes for me when the TV if OFF. Let me know and I might get the upgrade done, if it fixes it. I have tried lot of other things in the past , and cannot get it to work without muting when TV is OFF. Thanks.



Sorry, I did not have said problems, I cannot use HDMI audio for my Xbox as there is a loud, constant, clicking sound when it is selected but using dig optical works. The only other problem is I still cannot have my PC hooked up HDMI as my picture will disappear for several minutes and come back, sometimes with green static on half the screen. But on a better note, I can now switch between all inputs without getting the purple haze, that happened every time on certain inputs, and I can go into and out of the set up screen without getting the purple haze every time, and I have yet to tune to an input and get picture but no sound or visa versa.











John


----------



## nrwatson

Thanks Bob

I have played around and changed the front left speaker

I have put the sub a velondyne back to factory reset without it using its own correction

and toed the main speakers out slightly the surround speaker is more of a problem as it is within the wall and angle downwards and completely fixed

here is my next attempt
arcnew1.jpg 557k .jpg file
arcnew2.jpg 549k .jpg file


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nrwatson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960#post_22944565
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob
> 
> I have played around and changed the front left speaker
> 
> I have put the sub a velondyne back to factory reset without it using its own correction
> 
> and toed the main speakers out slightly the surround speaker is more of a problem as it is within the wall and angle downwards and completely fixed
> 
> here is my next attempt
> arcnew1.jpg 557k .jpg file
> arcnew2.jpg 549k .jpg file



Left Front looks a lot better.


For the sub, it still looks like it has its internal crossover active. If this is a Velodyne DD series sub you need to do more than just turn off its built-in EQ. You need to DISABLE its internal crossover.


I forget exactly what you do to do this (check the manual) but as I recall it is something like going to the page showing the settings, highlighting the entry in the top left of that table for the crossover frequency, and then hitting Reset on the remote. What you should see is that the crossover related settings change to N/A.


I don't know if your Velodyne is well sized for your room, but the Velodyne DD series subs should be capable of going lower than the 30Hz yours is showing. First make sure the high pass filter that attenuates the lowest frequency output of the Velodyne isn't set artificially high in frequency. Failing that, you may need to spend some quality time using ARC's Quick Measure tool to find a better location for your sub.

--Bob


----------



## Audiolic

Hi Everyone,

New to this thread and Anthem products.


I recently bought an Anthem AVM50v and are using it with my MCA Amps, Paradigm Speakers (i.e. Studio 100 front speakers, CC690 Centre and Studio 10 Surrounds) and Cabasse Santorin 25 Sub in my 5.1 system.


I ran ARC and got the following graphs.
 
 
 


I would appreciate any input with regards to the interpretation of the ARC Graphs.


Thank you.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960#post_22945357
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> New to this thread and Anthem products.
> 
> 
> I recently bought an Anthem AVM50v and are using it with my MCA Amps, Paradigm Speakers (i.e. Studio 100 front speakers, CC690 Centre and Studio 10 Surrounds) and Cabasse Santorin 25 Sub in my 5.1 system.
> 
> 
> I ran ARC and got the following graphs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would appreciate any input with regards to the interpretation of the ARC Graphs.
> 
> 
> Thank you.



Could you also post your Targets page.from ARC

Be sure you have turned the sub Crossover (Crossover Frequency) knob to its highest frequency.

Looks like you also will need to use Quick Measure to find a more favorable location for your sub

You have very little sub output below 50 Hz or above 100 Hz

The other speakers look very good.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960#post_22945357
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> New to this thread and Anthem products.
> 
> 
> I recently bought an Anthem AVM50v and are using it with my MCA Amps, Paradigm Speakers (i.e. Studio 100 front speakers, CC690 Centre and Studio 10 Surrounds) and Cabasse Santorin 25 Sub in my 5.1 system.
> 
> 
> I ran ARC and got the following graphs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would appreciate any input with regards to the interpretation of the ARC Graphs.
> 
> 
> Thank you.


 

Audiolic:

 

Your speaker responses all look good with the exception of the subwoofer. Its low frequency response falls off too soon. Move it into a corner to get some gain in the low end and re-measure.

 

- David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Audiolic,

I agree with the posts above. You are in good shape except for your Subwoofer. You should check the settings on your Sub to make sure you don't have a Crossover active inside it (rolling off the high bass frequency end), and you should spend some time with the Quick Measure tool in the ARC app to see if you can find a better location for the Sub, but it may simply come down to your Sub not being very capable and/or too small for your room. I.e., time to get a better Sub. Right now your Sub is only good down to about 50Hz.


We've seen some results like this from "servo" style Subwoofers when the are placed in a corner. The solution for those was to move them away from the corner, such as mid-way up a side wall -- still adjacent to the wall. Again, the Quick Measure tool will give you the fastest way to see what different locations are producing for raw (uncorrected) output from your Sub.


Your results are also a good candidate for raising the frequency limit for how far up ARC applies correction. This is the Max EQ Frequency setting in the ARC Targets window. The default value is 5KHz, and you could probably raise that to 10 or even 15KHz. Trust your ears as to whether the default or higher value produces a better sounding ARC solution.


Next time you post, also capture and post your ARC Targets window, as it includes useful information.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960#post_22945558
> 
> 
> Could you also post your Targets page.from ARC
> 
> Be sure you have turned the sub Crossover (Crossover Frequency) knob to its highest frequency.
> 
> Looks like you also will need to use Quick Measure to find a more favorable location for your sub
> 
> You have very little sub output below 50 Hz or above 100 Hz
> 
> The other speakers look very good.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960#post_22945982
> 
> 
> Audiolic,
> 
> I agree with the posts above. You are in good shape except for your Subwoofer. You should check the settings on your Sub to make sure you don't have a Crossover active inside it (rolling off the high bass frequency end), and you should spend some time with the Quick Measure tool in the ARC app to see if you can find a better location for the Sub, but it may simply come down to your Sub not being very capable and/or too small for your room. I.e., time to get a better Sub. Right now your Sub is only good down to about 50Hz.
> 
> 
> We've seen some results like this from "servo" style Subwoofers when the are placed in a corner. The solution for those was to move them away from the corner, such as mid-way up a side wall -- still adjacent to the wall. Again, the Quick Measure tool will give you the fastest way to see what different locations are producing for raw (uncorrected) output from your Sub.
> 
> 
> Your results are also a good candidate for raising the frequency limit for how far up ARC applies correction. This is the Max EQ Frequency setting in the ARC Targets window. The default value is 5KHz, and you could probably raise that to 10 or even 15KHz. Trust your ears as to whether the default or higher value produces a better sounding ARC solution.
> 
> 
> Next time you post, also capture and post your ARC Targets window, as it includes useful information.
> 
> --Bob




It would be especially good to see your Targets posted


Your sub has a frequency Crossover knob on the rear. Ensure it is turned up to the max frequency which the manufacturer states is 180 Hz.

Also make sure you are using the sub 1 output of the Anthem to the sub and using the low level sub inputs not the high level inputs

I also would try using the sub's phase control to see if putting the sub out of phase increases the sub response

As everyone has recomended you should try moving the sub and using the ARC Quick Measure after checking the settings and input connections to get a broader sub response


----------



## paradigm25


I am considering adding another sub to my system.

 

This is what I have; all Paradigm:

 

Fronts: S8's

Surrounds: S2's

Center: C-5

Sub: Sub 25.

 

Should I add another Sub 25 or a Sub 2.

 

(I just received my C5 and SVS AS-EQ1. I will post results soon).

 

Thanks.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960#post_22948577
> 
> 
> I am considering adding another sub to my system.
> 
> 
> This is what I have; all Paradigm:
> 
> 
> Fronts: S8's
> 
> Surrounds: S2's
> 
> Center: C-5
> 
> Sub: Sub 25.
> 
> 
> Should I add another Sub 25 or a Sub 2.
> 
> 
> (I just received my C5 and SVS AS-EQ1. I will post results soon).
> 
> 
> Thanks.



You never tweaked your current set up.

I would run your SVS and ARC before you make any decisions.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960_90#post_22948636
> 
> 
> 
> You never tweaked your current set up.
> 
> I would run your SVS and ARC before you make any decisions.


Yes you are right, let me do that, post results and then we will see.

 

Thanks.


----------



## Audiolic

Hi,

Thanks everyone for the comments re. my ARC Graphs. I will post the Targets sometime this week, but I kept the default ARC settings.


With regards to the Sub - I did turn the Frequency Knob at the back up to 180 Hz and I am running the cable from the Sub 1 output at the back of the AVM 50v. The phase is set to 0 at this stage. The sub is however currently positioned next to the wall, approx halfway between the 2 corners. I will take the advice and move it into the corner and use the ARC Quick Measure tool - still need to get familiar with it all. The room is however rather large, I would guess approximately 7m x 9m, so Bob you might be right that I need another / better sub.


Thanks again for the feedback.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22949119
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Thanks everyone for the comments re. my ARC Graphs. I will post the Targets sometime this week, but I kept the default ARC settings.
> 
> 
> With regards to the Sub - I did turn the Frequency Knob at the back up to 180 Hz and I am running the cable from the Sub 1 output at the back of the AVM 50v. The phase is set to 0 at this stage. The sub is however currently positioned next to the wall, approx halfway between the 2 corners. I will take the advice and move it into the corner and use the ARC Quick Measure tool - still need to get familiar with it all. The room is however rather large, I would guess approximately 7m x 9m, so Bob you might be right that I need another / better sub.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the feedback.




With a small sub as you have you could actually start by placing the sub at your listening position and crawling around the room listening for the best response. When you find the strongest bass move the sub to that location as your starting point to run Quick Measure.

When you start to use Quick Measure start by moving the sub a few inches at a time.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22949119
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Thanks everyone for the comments re. my ARC Graphs. I will post the Targets sometime this week, but I kept the default ARC settings.



What do you mean the default ARC settings ?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22949209
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22949119
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Thanks everyone for the comments re. my ARC Graphs. I will post the Targets sometime this week, but I kept the default ARC settings.
> 
> 
> With regards to the Sub - I did turn the Frequency Knob at the back up to 180 Hz and I am running the cable from the Sub 1 output at the back of the AVM 50v. The phase is set to 0 at this stage. The sub is however currently positioned next to the wall, approx halfway between the 2 corners. I will take the advice and move it into the corner and use the ARC Quick Measure tool - still need to get familiar with it all. The room is however rather large, I would guess approximately 7m x 9m, so Bob you might be right that I need another / better sub.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the feedback.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a small sub as you have you could actually start by placing the sub at your listening position and crawling around the room listening for the best response. When you find the strongest bass move the sub to that location as your starting point to run Quick Measure.
> 
> When you start to use Quick Measure start by moving the sub a few inches at a time.
Click to expand...

 

Also, your sub has a single 10" woofer with a rated 34 - 150Hz bandwidth so it will be quite a feat if you can achieve a response down to 25Hz even by placing by the wall on a single sub. A dual sub configuration or a lower-end capable sub(s) is needed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22949119
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Thanks everyone for the comments re. my ARC Graphs. I will post the Targets sometime this week, but I kept the default ARC settings.
> 
> 
> With regards to the Sub - I did turn the Frequency Knob at the back up to 180 Hz and I am running the cable from the Sub 1 output at the back of the AVM 50v. The phase is set to 0 at this stage. The sub is however currently positioned next to the wall, approx halfway between the 2 corners. I will take the advice and move it into the corner and use the ARC Quick Measure tool - still need to get familiar with it all. The room is however rather large, I would guess approximately 7m x 9m, so Bob you might be right that I need another / better sub.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the feedback.



The sub works by pressurizing the volume of air in the listening room -- which is why bass seems to come "from everywhere" instead of being localized to the position of the sub. So the height of the room also comes into this, as does whether there are openings to the rest of the house.


Some of the vendors include calculators on their web sites which will suggest what size or number of subs would be appropriate to a given volume of room. As you can imagine, these tend to be conservative as the vendors would greatly appreciate it if you would buy more and bigger subs. But they can give you an idea of how far off you might be in terms of sizing the sub for your room. If the sub is too small for your room, you won't get its rated performance, particularly at the low frequency end. It has to huff a lot of air to pressurize a room a 30Hz and below, and a small sub just won't move that much air.


The basic spec for movie LFE is that the sub has to handle 50-90Hz. That gets you the audible effects bass for things like explosions, but doesn't do anything for the bass that you more feel than hear below 30Hz, and probably isn't doing anything to extend the low frequency end of music for your main speakers either -- typically because subs with limited frequency range *ALSO* aren't particularly "accurate" -- i.e., not musical. The best subs will handle down to 20Hz easily (when properly sized to match the room) and will usually extend down to 15Hz. That last octave -- from 30Hz down to 15Hz -- is the chest thumping bass that people prize. The best subs will do this while maintaining accuracy, so that you can depend upon them for music as well (bass steered to them from the main speaker channels).


The "wavelength" of bass frequencies down there is large -- comparable to room dimensions. That means you get "standing waves" set up in the room according to how the sub's physical placement "couples" the sub to the resonances of the room -- including reflections from walls floor and ceiling. Moving the sub -- even inches matter at these frequencies -- changes how the sub couples and can have a dramatic effect on bass response, particularly as you move the ARC mic (or your head) around the seating area. That's why ARC needs you to space out the mic locations for its Measurements. But if the sub is too small for the room, even the best coupling position won't give you truly good bass response.

--Bob


----------



## paradigm25


Hi:

 

Here are my recent graphs. Few things have changed since I last posted, and where I reported horrible sound quality.

 

I have replaced my center channel to a Paradigm C5 from a C3. It made a big difference, and then I included SVS AS-EQ1 between D2v and my sub, it made a very big difference as you would see below, though still sub drops off after 70Hz and i would like to get your opinion on that. Moving the sub is not an option. Sound quality at this point is very good, it has never been this good in three years, and I think AS Eq1 was the biggest contributor. 

 

These is my current speaker set (all Paradigm):

 

Fronts: S8's.

Surrounds: S2's

Center: C5.

Sub: Sub25.

 

As I had said few posts prior to this that I am considering another sub, a Paradigm Sub S2 or another Sub25, and I would like to know if it is a good idea to spend the money, or it is not going to do much, and If I do get then which one, S2 or Sub25. These results are with Max EQ freq: 10,000, and Sub High Pass as FLAT. I am posting the originals in a separate post below.

 

 

 

 



 



 

Thanks everyone.


----------



## paradigm25


These are original ARC results with Max Eq 5,000, and Sub High Pass as AUTO. It is surprising how sub drops off even with AS Eq1 engaged.

 

Should I apply PBK. I do not have it but if I get a S2, it comes with it. Just a thought.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22950270
> 
> 
> Hi:
> 
> 
> Here are my recent graphs. Few things have changed since I last posted, and where I reported horrible sound quality.
> 
> 
> I have replaced my center channel to a Paradigm C5 from a C3. It made a big difference, and then I included SVS AS-EQ1 between D2v and my sub, it made a very big difference as you would see below, though still sub drops off after 70Hz and i would like to get your opinion on that. Moving the sub is not an option. Sound quality at this point is very good, it has never been this good in three years, and I think AS Eq1 was the biggest contributor.
> 
> 
> These is my current speaker set (all Paradigm):
> 
> 
> Fronts: S8's.
> 
> Surrounds: S2's
> 
> Center: C5.
> 
> Sub: Sub25.
> 
> 
> As I had said few posts prior to this that I am considering another sub, a Paradigm Sub S2 or another Sub25, and I would like to know if it is a good idea to spend the money, or it is not going to do much, and If I do get then which one, S2 or Sub25. These results are with Max EQ freq: 10,000, and Sub High Pass as FLAT. I am posting the originals in a separate post below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone.



The charts are excellent including the sub. But I would suggest you try this as an experiment.

Go to the targets and save the current .ARC file as Original ARC.ARC or something you can remember.

Then raise the sub cutoff to 140 instead of 120.

Recalculate and check the graphs.

If it raises the sub top end a bit and does not destroy any of the other graphs you might want to upload that file and give a listen.

You can always go back to the original ARC file you saved if it does not sound good.

Currently your Sub 25 graph looks very much like my Sub2 graph. Just cuts off a few Hz early.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960_90#post_22951194
> 
> 
> 
> The charts are excellent including the sub. But I would suggest you try this as an experiment.
> 
> Go to the targets and save the current .ARC file as Original ARC.ARC or something you can remember.
> 
> Then raise the sub cutoff to 140 instead of 120.
> 
> Recalculate and check the graphs.
> 
> If it raises the sub top end a bit and does not destroy any of the other graphs you might want to upload that file and give a listen.
> 
> You can always go back to the original ARC file you saved if it does not sound good.
> 
> Currently your Sub 25 graph looks very much like my Sub2 graph. Just cuts off a few Hz early.


Stew:

 

Here are the charts with sub at 140. I don't think it did much good or bad.

 

 



 



 



 

Thanks. But remember my first post was with Max Eq at 10k, and Sub High Pass at Flat, and second email was the original settings 5k, and Auto. FYI.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22951272
> 
> 
> Stew:
> 
> 
> Here are the charts with sub at 140. I don't think it did much good or bad.
> 
> 
> Thanks. But remember my first post was with Max Eq at 10k, and Sub High Pass at Flat, and second email was the original settings 5k, and Auto. FYI.



Here are two subs what do you think ?


  


Sub on left is your Sub25. Sub on Right is my Sub2. Your sub is working fine. Take some time and listen for a while and see if it sounds good.


----------



## boyce89976

^


Charts look GREAT, including the sub! You shouldn't have anything to complain about sound quality-wise at this point. The sub drop off below 70hz is negligible and shouldn't sound bass-shy at all. And it looks like ARC is crossing the sub at the right spot for your system. Enjoy!


Stew - The Sub 2 is one friggin' awesome sub! Looks like it's performing nicely in your system!


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960_90#post_22952080
> 
> 
> ^
> 
> 
> Charts look GREAT, including the sub! You shouldn't have anything to complain about sound quality-wise at this point. The sub drop off below 70hz is negligible and shouldn't sound bass-shy at all. And it looks like ARC is crossing the sub at the right spot for your system. Enjoy!
> 
> 
> Stew - The Sub 2 is one friggin' awesome sub! Looks like it's performing nicely in your system!


Haven't had much time to listen, but it certainly sounds good at this point. Let me take sometime to really digest my first good sound after three years of frustration. Why Anthem tech support did not help me the way you guys did here, I wonder.

 

Thank you all.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22950270
> 
> 
> Hi:
> 
> 
> Here are my recent graphs. Few things have changed since I last posted, and where I reported horrible sound quality.
> 
> 
> I have replaced my center channel to a Paradigm C5 from a C3. It made a big difference, and then I included SVS AS-EQ1 between D2v and my sub, it made a very big difference as you would see below, though still sub drops off after 70Hz and i would like to get your opinion on that. Moving the sub is not an option. Sound quality at this point is very good, it has never been this good in three years, and I think AS Eq1 was the biggest contributor.
> 
> 
> These is my current speaker set (all Paradigm):
> 
> 
> Fronts: S8's.
> 
> Surrounds: S2's
> 
> Center: C5.
> 
> Sub: Sub25.
> 
> 
> As I had said few posts prior to this that I am considering another sub, a Paradigm Sub S2 or another Sub25, and I would like to know if it is a good idea to spend the money, or it is not going to do much, and If I do get then which one, S2 or Sub25. These results are with Max EQ freq: 10,000, and Sub High Pass as FLAT. I am posting the originals in a separate post below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone.


Looks like you have yourself a winner. Hopefully, it sounds as good as your charts look.


----------



## paradigm25


Not without you guys.

 

Thank you.


----------



## paradigm25


Hello All:

 

My recent charts are posted above. I have one question.

 

I have never experienced two subs, would it be worth-a-while to add another sub, and if I do, I am considering Paradigm Sub 25 or a Sub 2. Which would be better for my system ( Sub 2 is almost twice the price of sub 25).

 

This is my current system (all Paradigm Speakers).:

 

Fronts: S8's.

Surrounds: S2's.

Center: C5.

Sub: Sub 25.

 

D2v, Oppo 105, and Sony 5400ES.

 

Stew: What is your opinion?

 

Thanks.


----------



## Audiolic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22949554
> 
> 
> The sub works by pressurizing the volume of air in the listening room -- which is why bass seems to come "from everywhere" instead of being localized to the position of the sub. So the height of the room also comes into this, as does whether there are openings to the rest of the hou
> 
> 
> Some of the vendors include calculators on their web sites which will suggest what size or number of subs would be appropriate to a given volume of room. As you can imagine, these tend to be conservative as the vendors would greatly appreciate it if you would buy more and bigger subs. But they can give you an idea of how far off you might be in terms of sizing the sub for your room. If the sub is too small for your room, you won't get its rated performance, particularly at the low frequency end. It has to huff a lot of air to pressurize a room a 30Hz and below, and a small sub just won't move that much air.
> 
> 
> The basic spec for movie LFE is that the sub has to handle 50-90Hz. That gets you the audible effects bass for things like explosions, but doesn't do anything for the bass that you more feel than hear below 30Hz, and probably isn't doing anything to extend the low frequency end of music for your main speakers either -- typically because subs with limited frequency range *ALSO* aren't particularly "accurate" -- i.e., not musical. The best subs will handle down to 20Hz easily (when properly sized to match the room) and will usually extend down to 15Hz. That last octave -- from 30Hz down to 15Hz -- is the chest thumping bass that people prize. The best subs will do this while maintaining accuracy, so that you can depend upon them for music as well (bass steered to them from the main speaker channels).
> 
> 
> The "wavelength" of bass frequencies down there is large -- comparable to room dimensions. That means you get "standing waves" set up in the room according to how the sub's physical placement "couples" the sub to the resonances of the room -- including reflections from walls floor and ceiling. Moving the sub -- even inches matter at these frequencies -- changes how the sub couples and can have a dramatic effect on bass response, particularly as you move the ARC mic (or your head) around the seating area. That's why ARC needs you to space out the mic locations for its Measurements. But if the sub is too small for the room, even the best coupling position won't give you truly good bass response.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

Great explanation, thank you.


Assuming I would get another Sub, let's say the Paradigm Sub 12 or 15 ( for example). Would there be any implications of using it with my current Santorin 25 ?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22952832
> 
> 
> Hello All:
> 
> 
> My recent charts are posted above. I have one question.
> 
> 
> I have never experienced two subs, would it be worth-a-while to add another sub, and if I do, I am considering Paradigm Sub 25 or a Sub 2. Which would be better for my system ( Sub 2 is almost twice the price of sub 25).
> 
> 
> This is my current system (all Paradigm Speakers).:
> 
> 
> Fronts: S8's.
> 
> Surrounds: S2's.
> 
> Center: C5.
> 
> Sub: Sub 25.
> 
> 
> D2v, Oppo 105, and Sony 5400ES.
> 
> 
> Stew: What is your opinion?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Not Stu but I can tell you we have very similar equipment but I had a single Paradigm 15" Signature Servo then bought another, the two of them did not do it for me so now I have a Sub 2 and am very happy. If you want more sound pressure start out with two Sub 25's, depending on your room and looking at your graphs, these might do it for you. My 2 cents


John


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22953249
> 
> 
> Not Stu but I can tell you we have very similar equipment but I had a single Paradigm 15" Signature Servo then bought another, the two of them did not do it for me so now I have a Sub 2 and am very happy. If you want more sound pressure start out with two Sub 25's, depending on your room and looking at your graphs, these might do it for you. My 2 cents
> 
> 
> John



Agree. The Sub 2 is awe inspiring by itself, but not sure it would equal two Sub 25s. Wish I had your problems!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22952479
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960_90#post_22952080
> 
> 
> ^
> 
> 
> Charts look GREAT, including the sub! You shouldn't have anything to complain about sound quality-wise at this point. The sub drop off below 70hz is negligible and shouldn't sound bass-shy at all. And it looks like ARC is crossing the sub at the right spot for your system. Enjoy!
> 
> 
> Stew - The Sub 2 is one friggin' awesome sub! Looks like it's performing nicely in your system!
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't had much time to listen, but it certainly sounds good at this point. Let me take sometime to really digest my first good sound after three years of frustration. Why Anthem tech support did not help me the way you guys did here, I wonder.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all.
Click to expand...

Told you the AS-EQ1 one will be your best game changer







 ...Excellent sub response and it even beats out Stew's response, a thing i didn't think was possible.

 

Also, IMO keep the sub freq to 120Hz and no more. For one, its the Dolby/DTS standard and raising it higher risks passing deep male voices to the sib which will localize the sub, a thing you do not want to do.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960_90#post_22953370
> 
> 
> 
> Agree. The Sub 2 is awe inspiring by itself, but not sure it would equal two Sub 25s. Wish I had your problems!


 

I am not trying to replace my Sub 25. I am trying to add another one. Is it worth it, would it improve the SQ in the room? If it is then should I add another Suib 25 or Sub 2. That is my question.

 

Thanks again all.


----------



## esander3

You already have a flat response. What would you improve?


It is difficult to set up 2 subs. Would you need another AS-EQ1?


I don't see a value in another sub based on your current graph.



Ed


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22953942
> 
> 
> I am not trying to replace my Sub 25. I am trying to add another one. Is it worth it, would it improve the SQ in the room? If it is then should I add another Suib 25 or Sub 2. That is my question.
> 
> 
> Thanks again all.



I remember you saying that moving your current sub was not possible. Where would you put a Sub 2. It is a 250 lb beast that you cannot hide easily


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22953942
> 
> 
> I am not trying to replace my Sub 25. I am trying to add another one. Is it worth it, would it improve the SQ in the room? If it is then should I add another Suib 25 or Sub 2. That is my question.
> 
> 
> Thanks again all.


"Is it worth it, would it improve the SQ in the room?" Good question; but, honestly, no one knows the answer to this question. Everyone can give their opinions, and that's just about it. "If it is then should I add another Suib 25 or Sub 2" If it was me, I would go with another Sub 25. That way, you have 2 identical subs that have the same specs. One thing to keep in mind is that adding another sub may not improve things. Actually, it may make things worse. It's possible that once you add another sub, they may begin to cancel each other out which is what you definitely don't want to happen. If that does happen, then the only way to fix it is to move the subs around. You have indicated that moving your current sub is not an option. So, I wonder where you are going to put the second sub if you do decide to get one if you couldn't move your current sub. I strongly suggest having options to move the subs around when adding a second or more subs. The goal is to have the subs working together and not against each other. So, I would suggest to just listen to what you have for a while like maybe a month. After that, decide if you truly need/want another sub. The Sub 25 that you have is a very capable sub, and if you just listen to your setup for a little while, you may decide that you don't need another sub. However, if after listening for a while you do decide that you need another sub, then I would suggest that you pick out multiple locations for the second sub just in case you have to move them around. Another thing that you can do is once you pick out the multiple locations, you can move your current sub to those locations to get an idea of what the frequency response would be at that location.


I wish you much luck, and I hope my post was helpful.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22904291
> 
> 
> Essentially this is a form of HDMI handshake failure, complicated by the multi-stage handshake. As with *ALL* cases of HDMI handshake failure, the thing you should suspect first is that you have an HDMI cabling quality problem...Consider the HDMI signal path from end to end...



and


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22911430
> 
> 
> ^Short is not good for HDMI cables. It can even be worse than too long.
> 
> 
> 6 feet (2 meters) is about optimal length for an HDMI cable between any two devices. This has to do with the the way the signal equalization is implemented in the HDMI chips to try to make longer cables work better.
> 
> --Bob



I've had an ongoing issue with handshaking from my AVM50 to my HDFury2. I ended getting a Dr. HDMI as well, which almost, but not completely, eliminated the problem. Mainly the issue is when the power-on source is my FiOS STB. For some reason, once I'm powered up and synced, I can switch sources "forever" - with various cables and resolutions - without an issue until I power-down again.


I've swapped cables ad nauseum, but based on this, should I be using 2m HDMI from the STB to the AVM50, then another 2m cable to the Dr. HDMI, and 2m again to the HDFury2 for the best results?


Thanks,


- Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes.


The only time to use a shorter cable is if it is entirely a passive connection -- i.e., daisy chained, as with a shorty "port saver" cable.


Switching to 6 foot cables may not solve your problem, but it gives you the best odds.


Since your issue is related to power up, it is likely the root cause of the problem is that the handshake is happening before some device is really powered up and ready.


The usual advice in that case is to power up devices in reverse order of the data flow. I.e., Display + HD Fury -- wait -- Dr. HDMI -- wait -- Anthem in your case.

--Bob


----------



## chileboy

That's very helpful Bob, thanks.


- Mark


----------



## MStanic

What is the longest lenght that one should consider for an HDMI cable. Specifically, the one running from the D2v to the TV or Projector. I'm only asking because I plan on relocating the equipment outside of the main theater room and was wondering how long the cable can get in order to still receive the best audio/video quality over that HDMI cable.


Does running an ethernet cable to a balun converter work just as good as a straight HDMI connection. If so, can anybody recommed the best balun converter and should I be using CAT5 or CAT6 for this type of run?


Thanks.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22954457
> 
> 
> The usual advice in that case is to power up devices in reverse order of the data flow. I.e., Display + HD Fury -- wait -- Dr. HDMI -- wait -- Anthem in your case.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22955080
> 
> 
> That's very helpful Bob, thanks.
> 
> 
> - Mark



Mark, is your Fury left powered at all times?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22952080
> 
> 
> ^
> 
> 
> Charts look GREAT, including the sub! You shouldn't have anything to complain about sound quality-wise at this point. The sub drop off below 70hz is negligible and shouldn't sound bass-shy at all.



I agree! But I thought he was obsessing about the slight rolloff ABOVE 70Hz. It would appear that ARC is intentionally applying this, so adding more subs isn't going to change that.


What blows my mind is how, according to the red line, his uncorrected sub response was going up to 500Hz!


Too bad it's been dropped from the Paradigm line. I guess the Sub-1 is its replacement.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22955394
> 
> 
> What is the longest lenght that one should consider for an HDMI cable. Specifically, the one running from the D2v to the TV or Projector. I'm only asking because I plan on relocating the equipment outside of the main theater room and was wondering how long the cable can get in order to still receive the best audio/video quality over that HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> Does running an ethernet cable to a balun converter work just as good as a straight HDMI connection. If so, can anybody recommed the best balun converter and should I be using CAT5 or CAT6 for this type of run?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



That's tougher to sort out because the distance depends on the generation of HDMI chips at each end of the cable. The equalization function of the chips has improved over time.


It also depends on whether the cable is designed for long runs.


But typically 50 feet is probably about the limit for a straight HDMI cable. However there are other solutions for longer runs, at a price. The Balun style solutions work well, and for the longest runs there are solutions that use optical cable between the convertors.


If you check, e.g., Blue Jeans Cable, you'll see that their "best" cable comes in two different flavors, one of which is intended for long runs.


Often the biggest problem people have with long runs is that they incorporate wall plate adapters to try to make the installation look more professional. The wall plates themselves can be a source of problems.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22953942
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960_90#post_22953370
> 
> 
> 
> Agree. The Sub 2 is awe inspiring by itself, but not sure it would equal two Sub 25s. Wish I had your problems!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not trying to replace my Sub 25. I am trying to add another one. Is it worth it, would it improve the SQ in the room? If it is then should I add another Suib 25 or Sub 2. That is my question.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again all.
Click to expand...

 

Paradigm:

 

As to the question of whether to add a second sub depends on the geometry of your room. When yo walk around the room, is the bass even or is it absent in places and emphasized in others. If so, a 2nd sub (of the same type is best) would help even out the bass around the room as i have in my room...and yes, the AS-EQ1 handles 2 subs so no need for a second unit.

 

A slight change in the AS-EQ1 configuration setting is all you need and then re-calibrate as usual.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960_90#post_22958291
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paradigm:
> 
> 
> 
> As to the question of whether to add a second sub depends on the geometry of your room. When yo walk around the room, is the bass even or is it absent in places and emphasized in others. If so, a 2nd sub (of the same type is best) would help even out the bass around the room as i have in my room...and yes, the AS-EQ1 handles 2 subs so no need for a second unit.
> 
> 
> 
> A slight change in the AS-EQ1 configuration setting is all you need and then re-calibrate as usual.


dmusoke: Thank you.

 

Let me assess that part, but I think I am beginning to understand, and I do have good sound overall for the first time.

 

You were the one who suggested As Eq1, and that was the game changer, at least in my case.

 

One question though; I still should check the phase alignment with my LF as you have suggested using NULL method, correct, because EQ1 does not phase align with the other speakers. Let me know.

 

Thanks again.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22954457
> 
> 
> The usual advice in that case is to power up devices in reverse order of the data flow. I.e., Display + HD Fury -- wait -- Dr. HDMI -- wait -- Anthem in your case.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39990#post_22955437
> 
> 
> Mark, is your Fury left powered at all times?



Funny you should ask, I was thinking about that, it is not because when I initially did leave it powered, it made no difference whatsoever - but based on Bob's advice, and the fact that I have added the Dr. HDMI to the mix, I am going to try that again.


- Mark


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22958573
> 
> 
> dmusoke: Thank you.
> 
> 
> Let me assess that part, but I think I am beginning to understand, and I do have good sound overall for the first time.
> 
> 
> You were the one who suggested As Eq1, and that was the game changer, at least in my case.
> 
> 
> One question though; I still should check the phase alignment with my LF as you have suggested using NULL method, correct, because EQ1 does not phase align with the other speakers. Let me know.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



You can check phase, but coming from where you were to where you are now, I suspect you'll find the sub is in phase. Regarding your other question: Another Sub 25 or a Sub 1, I wasn't clear in my response. Two subs are almost always better than one for the reasons David mentioned, especially when you have a challenging room.


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960_90#post_22961803
> 
> 
> 
> You can check phase, but coming from where you were to where you are now, I suspect you'll find the sub is in phase. Regarding your other question: Another Sub 25 or a Sub 1, I wasn't clear in my response. Two subs are almost always better than one for the reasons David mentioned, especially when you have a challenging room.


 

David? who?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22958291
> 
> 
> Paradigm:
> 
> 
> As to the question of whether to add a second sub depends on the geometry of your room. When yo walk around the room, is the bass even or is it absent in places and emphasized in others. If so, a 2nd sub (of the same type is best) would help even out the bass around the room as i have in my room...and yes, the AS-EQ1 handles 2 subs so no need for a second unit.
> 
> 
> A slight change in the AS-EQ1 configuration setting is all you need and then re-calibrate as usual.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22963653
> 
> 
> David? who?



dmusoke


----------



## Audiolic

I've connected a Mac Mini to my Anthem AVM 50v to stream music from my NAS drive. The Mac Mini is connected via Mini Display Port / HDMI (work around for 5.1 Surround Sound) to HDMI 6 on the Anthem. All settings on the Mac Mini has been adjusted to 5.1 Surround Sound, however the Anthem is picking up the link up as Mac 7.1 - PCM and is only playing in 2-Channel Stereo with no Mode selection options (via the remote). Any way around this on the Anthem ?


----------



## Shayne2

Any win 8 chart volume fix as of yet it has been 5 months since win 8 rtm (solution not consistent). I am def pizzed at the dual boot win 7 just for arc!


Regards


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22971204
> 
> 
> I've connected a Mac Mini to my Anthem AVM 50v to stream music from my NAS drive. The Mac Mini is connected via Mini Display Port / HDMI (work around for 5.1 Surround Sound) to HDMI 6 on the Anthem. All settings on the Mac Mini has been adjusted to 5.1 Surround Sound, however the Anthem is picking up the link up as Mac 7.1 - PCM and is only playing in 2-Channel Stereo with no Mode selection options (via the remote). Any way around this on the Anthem ?



What are you using to play the audio files you are stream to the 50v ?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22971577
> 
> 
> What are you using to play the audio files you are stream to the 50v ?
> 
> You do have to have a player


----------



## Audiolic

iTunes at the moment.


----------



## Audiolic

Hi,

I posted my ARC Graphs last weekend.


A question was asked regarding my Target Screen. I used ARC's "Auto Detect" function, which resulted in the following:
 


I have read in this thread, that it would be best to set the X-Over Frequency to 80.
*Would this imply that in my case I change ALL Speaker X-Over Frequencies (including the Sub) to 80 ?*

Secondly, If I change this manually in the AVM 50v setup menu would that be sufficient or is it best to re-run ARC with these settings ?


Lastly, I have played with my Sub, but I'm afraid moving it into the corner and playing with the Phase made little difference. Will need to look at a bigger/second sub.


Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22972157
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I posted my ARC Graphs last weekend.
> 
> 
> A question was asked regarding my Target Screen. I used ARC's "Auto Detect" function, which resulted in the following:
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> I have read in this thread, that it would be best to set the X-Over Frequency to 80.
> *Would this imply that in my case I change ALL Speaker X-Over Frequencies (including the Sub) to 80 ?*
> 
> Secondly, If I change this manually in the AVM 50v setup menu would that be sufficient or is it best to re-run ARC with these settings ?
> 
> 
> Lastly, I have played with my Sub, but I'm afraid moving it into the corner and playing with the Phase made little difference. Will need to look at a bigger/second sub.
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions.



Do *NOT* make changes to Crossover frequencies in the Setup menu in the AVM 50v as that will screw up the calculations already made by ARC as part of the solution you uploaded. Any such changes need to be made in the Targets window in the ARC application -- followed by a re-Calculation and re-Upload of the adjusted solution.


That said, the values ARC is currently using look reasonable (given that you have disabled use of the Subwoofer for your Music solution) and so I would not recommend you arbitrarily adjust any of them to 80Hz. There are sometimes reasons to help ARC pick a better Cutoff/Crossover frequency given specific room and speaker problems that can show up in the charts. I've not gone back to find the charts you previously posted to see if any such tweaking might be appropriate in your case. But it is certainly *NOT* the case that you should arbitrarily force ARC to use 80Hz.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22972157
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I posted my ARC Graphs last weekend.
> 
> 
> A question was asked regarding my Target Screen. I used ARC's "Auto Detect" function, which resulted in the following:
> 
> 
> 
> I have read in this thread, that it would be best to set the X-Over Frequency to 80.
> *Would this imply that in my case I change ALL Speaker X-Over Frequencies (including the Sub) to 80 ?*
> 
> Secondly, If I change this manually in the AVM 50v setup menu would that be sufficient or is it best to re-run ARC with these settings ?
> 
> 
> Lastly, I have played with my Sub, but I'm afraid moving it into the corner and playing with the Phase made little difference. Will need to look at a bigger/second sub.
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions.



Sorry, but you have me totally confused and maybe all the different feedback from forum members has you totally confused too.

I suggest you start over from the beginning with ARC. Connect everything and start ARC.

When you say you used the " auto detect " function are you referring to option of being able to choose Automatic or Manual/Select Existing File on the opening of the ARC program ?

Choose Manual not Auto

I see you changed the music config in ARC for now leave it the same as Video config

Select Erase

Run ARC

Upload the results and save the file.

Do not change anything ARC suggests.

Post your charts and Targets.

If you may want to move your sub around and use Quick measure before running ARC.

You only need to move the sub inches at a time.

What you are looking for is eliminating or reducing as much as possible any peaks or dips in the sub curve or smoothing the response.

If yo changed any crossover settings in the Anthem setup go back and change them back.

Do not get confused with the crossover settings in the Anthem and the cutoffs seen in ARC. They are not the same thing.

Again, Post your charts and targets so we can try to help


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Auto Detect is the button lower left on the ARC Target's window that restores all the Targets settings to what ARC originally chose based on the raw, Measured data and your original choice of which speakers to use for Movie and Music (made prior to doing the Measurement pass).


I.e., it is a one button way to undo whatever fiddling you've done in the Target's window. (You still need to re-Calculate and re-Upload with those now-restored, original Target values to finish getting the original, ARC-chosen solution Uploaded.)

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40000_50#post_22971499
> 
> 
> Any win 8 chart volume fix as of yet it has been 5 months since win 8 rtm (solution not consistent). I am def pizzed at the dual boot win 7 just for arc!
> 
> 
> Regards


If nobody has responded to you yet. The graph display is just cosmetic and does affect how arc value is computed or how they are uploaded to your D2.

I have been running win8 and have no problem with arc. Just make sure that you have the correct driver for your keyspan usb.


----------



## boyce89976

Question about ARC: I haven't yet explored different Movie and Music settings, but may soon as my music listening position is slightly different that my movie listening position. So far, I have just included my music LP as the main LP when running ARC setup. If I chose to do separate settings, do I run ARC setup twice and upload two different correction values? Or, is it more simply a different set of X-over points set in the Targets window?


My previous Pioneer AVR allowed you to do up to 6 different measurements and adjustments based on LP's.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *boyce89976*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22973046
> 
> 
> Question about ARC: I haven't yet explored different Movie and Music settings, but may soon as my music listening position is slightly different that my movie listening position. So far, I have just included my music LP as the main LP when running ARC setup. If I chose to do separate settings, do I run ARC setup twice and upload two different correction values? Or, is it more simply a different set of X-over points set in the Targets window?
> 
> 
> My previous Pioneer AVR allowed you to do up to 6 different measurements and adjustments based on LP's.



When you start in manual mode make sure that "Music same as movie" is not checked. You can select the speakers to use at this time also. ARC will lead you through 2 sets of measurements. They are both uploaded at the same time. You can then assign which mode goes with what source.


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22973061
> 
> 
> When you start in manual mode make sure that "Music same as movie" is not checked. You can select the speakers to use at this time also. ARC will lead you through 2 sets of measurements. They are both uploaded at the same time. You can then assign which mode goes with what source.



Thanks for the quick reply! That sounds easy enough, now to find the time to do it!


----------



## Thxtheater

I've been meaning to get people's feedback on my setup for some months. I _finally_ got around to taking some screen shots of the ARC app.


I'd be curious to see people's impressions and suggestions. For movies, I use the default ARC settings; however for music config, I lowered the setting from 60 to 45. Disregard the pic that shows music at 60, it's been calculated and uploaded to my AVM50v at 45.


As you can see, I have true full-range L&R speakers with the Ultima2 Salons and I'm getting great extension all the way down to 20Hz. My speakers are not really toed in at all. They are pretty much straight on.

I'm sitting about 14 feet from the speakers. My sub is the Revel B15 and is -3db at 18Hz.


My side surrounds and rears are all in-ceiling. I look forward to people's insights and suggestions.


----------



## Audiolic

Hi Everyone,

Thanks again for all the comments and feedback.


Here is a complete set of new Graphs based on ARC's "Auto Detect" settings in the Target Screen, that I ran last night.
 
 
 


Just to be clear, I have not changed any of the targets post running ARC. The only thing I did do was to de-select the Sub in Music (I prefer listening to the Classics with a little less Bass







) prior to running ARC.


I did move the sub into the corner (prior to running ARC), as discussed in this thread before. I also used the Quick Measure tool to see what the impact would be if I move if a few inches either side of the corner, but as per my previous replies, it had very little impact (i.e. the Sub - Graph stayed more or less the same). I believe some of the previous comments that the Sub is just too small for the room size might have "hit the nail on the head". My room is approx. 6 x 8m and about 2.6m high.


I'd be keen to get some advise on the Targets and ARC graphs as posted.


Thanks again for all the assistance and advise. It is much appreciated.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paradigm25*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22958573
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960_90#post_22958291
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paradigm:
> 
> 
> 
> As to the question of whether to add a second sub depends on the geometry of your room. When yo walk around the room, is the bass even or is it absent in places and emphasized in others. If so, a 2nd sub (of the same type is best) would help even out the bass around the room as i have in my room...and yes, the AS-EQ1 handles 2 subs so no need for a second unit.
> 
> 
> 
> A slight change in the AS-EQ1 configuration setting is all you need and then re-calibrate as usual.
> 
> 
> 
> dmusoke: Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> Let me assess that part, but I think I am beginning to understand, and I do have good sound overall for the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> You were the one who suggested As Eq1, and that was the game changer, at least in my case.
> 
> 
> 
> One question though; I still should check the phase alignment with my LF as you have suggested using NULL method, correct, because EQ1 does not phase align with the other speakers. Let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the late response... No need to perform the NULL method if using the EQ1. It phase aligns the subs with the mains by computing the odd subwoofer distance it gives you to enter into your processors bass management menu which is the end result of the NULL menthod anyways. It also suggests a xover value for you as well.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22973487
> 
> 
> I've been meaning to get people's feedback on my setup for some months. I _finally_ got around to taking some screen shots of the ARC app.
> 
> 
> I'd be curious to see people's impressions and suggestions. For movies, I use the default ARC settings; however for music config, I lowered the setting from 60 to 45. Disregard the pic that shows music at 60, it's been calculated and uploaded to my AVM50v at 45.
> 
> 
> As you can see, I have true full-range L&R speakers with the Ultima2 Salons and I'm getting great extension all the way down to 20Hz. My speakers are not really toed in at all. They are pretty much straight on.
> 
> I'm sitting about 14 feet from the speakers. My sub is the Revel B15 and is -3db at 18Hz.
> 
> 
> My side surrounds and rears are all in-ceiling. I look forward to people's insights and suggestions.


 

Thxtheater ...  your speakers responses look very good but the sub has a deep notch at 100Hz that is limiting its high frequency response to 80Hz, I believe ARC could gives a value of 110 - 120Hz if that notch is reduced.

 

I would also give my music config a listen first before lowering its xover points. You'd like the sub to handle the lower frequencies for it produces them easily with minimal distortion. Though your mains go down to 20Hz, i guarantee you their distortion at 20Hz is much higher than the same 20Hz produced from a subwoofer. That's what subs are designed to do ...produce low distortion sounds at low frequencies and at high spls.

 

At 75dB your mains go down to 20Hz and below as shown in the charts. But what about at 100dB or more where movie peaks are recorded? Their FR curve could show a response down to 50Hz or higher and with much more distortion to boot! Hence the need to allow the sub to handle the low end.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22973536
> 
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> Thanks again for all the comments and feedback.
> 
> 
> Here is a complete set of new Graphs based on ARC's "Auto Detect" settings in the Target Screen, that I ran last night.
> 
> 
> .
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be clear, I have not changed any of the targets post running ARC. The only thing I did do was to de-select the Sub in Music (I prefer listening to the Classics with a little less Bass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) prior to running ARC.
> 
> 
> I did move the sub into the corner (prior to running ARC), as discussed in this thread before. I also used the Quick Measure tool to see what the impact would be if I move if a few inches either side of the corner, but as per my previous replies, it had very little impact (i.e. the Sub - Graph stayed more or less the same). I believe some of the previous comments that the Sub is just too small for the room size might have "hit the nail on the head". My room is approx. 6 x 8m and about 2.6m high.
> 
> 
> I'd be keen to get some advise on the Targets and ARC graphs as posted.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for all the assistance and advise. It is much appreciated.


 

Audiolic, a few suggestions .....

 

1. Since your sub has limitations in the low-ned, i would set its response to "FLAT" in the advanced menu to extract as much low end bass as possible,

 

2. Since you won't use your sub in the music configuration, then change the 40Hz to 25Hz which is the lowest value possible, i believe. still make the full xover setting checked.


----------



## Audiolic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22974937
> 
> 
> Audiolic, a few suggestions .....
> 
> 
> 1. Since your sub has limitations in the low-ned, i would set its response to "FLAT" in the advanced menu to extract as much low end bass as possible,
> 
> 
> 2. Since you won't use your sub in the music configuration, then change the 40Hz to 25Hz which is the lowest value possible, i believe. still make the full xover setting checked.



Great, thank you.


I think Bob also mentioned that I could look at changing the MAX EQ setting to 10000 and 15000. What does this setting change ?


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22973040
> 
> 
> If nobody has responded to you yet. The graph display is just cosmetic and does affect how arc value is computed or how they are uploaded to your D2.
> 
> I have been running win8 and have no problem with arc. Just make sure that you have the correct driver for your keyspan usb.



I fine the solution thru windows 8 different than that through windows 7. The chart volumes are lower and the uploaded solution differs. Have you ran your solution on win 7 and than 8 to compare? The software runs fine on 8 here also (no crashes etc.). If you have not compared the 2 solutions you do not really know if you have no problem. It has nothing to do with keyspan since it can be repeated with the keyspan and without thru a com port.


Regards


----------



## paradigm25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39960_90#post_22974838
> 
> 
> Sorry for the late response... No need to perform the NULL method if using the EQ1. It phase aligns the subs with the mains by computing the odd subwoofer distance it gives you to enter into your processors bass management menu which is the end result of the NULL menthod anyways. It also suggests a xover value for you as well.


dmusoke:

 

One thing though, and it is after talking to SVS tech support, and he suggested that if I am going to run ARC with my D2v later, then do not even need to connect my LF to the Eq1, and that is what I did. In other words, D2v was never ON during the entire Eq1 setup. Also it is not easy to connect D2v mic to Eq1, because D2v mic is a USB, where the connection to Eq1 is a mono jack.

 

So I am wondering Eq1 never heard LF and Sub together, so how can it phase align.

 

Let me know if am understanding and doing it correctly. That is why I thought to check phase by NULL method.

 

Thanks.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40000_50#post_22975692
> 
> 
> I fine the solution thru windows 8 different than that through windows 7. The chart volumes are lower and the uploaded solution differs. Have you ran your solution on win 7 and than 8 to compare? The software runs fine on 8 here also (no crashes etc.). If you have not compared the 2 solutions you do not really know if you have no problem. It has nothing to do with keyspan since it can be repeated with the keyspan and without thru a com port.
> 
> 
> Regards


I have not run back to back measurement with win7 and win8. I usually re-do my arc measurement once every 3month or if have to move furniture around.

And they weren't worse when I switched to win8. If you have done a back to back measurement with just win7 and win8 as different parameters, you could zip up everything including your .arc and screen shot and send them to anthem support. They have tool to figure out if it is the microphone driver that is behaving differently or the arc software that is computing a different solution.


----------



## chileboy

Is it possible on my AVM50 to direct Zone 2 or 3 (or RECORD) to the headphone jack and still use MAIN with the speakers? I want to listen to LPs (Analog Direct) while my significant other watches TV.


I looked at the manual, as well as searching here, but I can't figure out if it's possible. I apologize if this has been asked before.


Thanks,


- Mark


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22976724
> 
> 
> Is it possible on my AVM50 to direct Zone 2 or 3 (or RECORD) to the headphone jack and still use MAIN with the speakers? I want to listen to LPs (Analog Direct) while my significant other watches TV.
> 
> 
> I looked at the manual, as well as searching here, but I can't figure out if it's possible. I apologize if this has been asked before.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> - Mark



Mark,


My recollection is that you cannot. The headphone jack is parallel to the MAIN zone. So your only options are to play main and headphones in parallel or to mute the main when the headphones are inserted. Your options are (depending on how crazy and complex you want to get):


1) Use a separate headphone amp connected to zone2 or zone3.


2) Run all component out from the cable box to the anthem and switch your TV watching to component plus both analog and digital out. When she wants to watch TV, you watch it via one of the TV's AUX component inputs with analog audio via the TVs speakers.


3) Get an HDMI 1x2 splitter. Pass one signal to the Anthem. Pass the second signal directly to the TV. She can then watch TV via the TV speakers from a second HDMI input.


You will just have to find another way to bypass it.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22974915
> 
> 
> Thxtheater ...  your speakers responses look very good but the sub has a deep notch at 100Hz that is limiting its high frequency response to 80Hz, I believe ARC could gives a value of 110 - 120Hz if that notch is reduced.
> 
> 
> I would also give my music config a listen first before lowering its xover points. You'd like the sub to handle the lower frequencies for it produces them easily with minimal distortion. Though your mains go down to 20Hz, i guarantee you their distortion at 20Hz is much higher than the same 20Hz produced from a subwoofer. That's what subs are designed to do ...produce low distortion sounds at low frequencies and at high spls.
> 
> 
> At 75dB your mains go down to 20Hz and below as shown in the charts. But what about at 100dB or more where movie peaks are recorded? Their FR curve could show a response down to 50Hz or higher and with much more distortion to boot! Hence the need to allow the sub to handle the low end.



Dmusoke,


Thanks for your feedback and a question: Is ARC smoothly correcting that 100Hz notch in the "after" curve? I think it's hard to see with the screen shots that I ran ARC. With the sub, it looks to me like the green line is almost perfectly hugging the ideal target curve. I defer to you all on what you may be seeing.


Since you brought up the issue of the sub, I was wondering about the rolloff since my side surounds are being crossed over much higher than all the other speakers.


One thing that I have wondered (and I'm sure it's been answered somewhere somehow) is why ARC rolls off the low end and why in terms of the measurements does every single graph I've seen fall off at the upper end at around 10-20kHz. The beryllium tweeter in the Revels extends far beyond 20 without distortion. Is this a function of the speakers not being pointed straight on towards the microphone? My assumption is that the HF will be most impacted with a rolloff in those cases.


----------



## Shrike645

With regards to the high freq roll off, we have heard that perhaps the mic is not calibrated for the high freq. It's been said that the ARC curves are an average of the room response. with 5 mic positions and high freq being very directional it would seem logical that the average of these 5 mic positions, where probably 4 of them are not in the optimal position of these high freq, that the average would show a roll off.


----------



## The Bogg

Hi all, I haven't been around here for a while. Looks like the thread is still very active!


I have a D1 that was upgraded to D2 (D1-hd I guess) with the red video board. It has been working great for years but now I'm experiencing a little problem and was wondering if anyone else had it or if there is any advice. Naturally I'll get in touch with Anthem, but it's a long weekend up here.


I noticed recently that the coaxial digital input didn't work when I was going to do some room measurements using Room EQ Wizard. No biggie since I just used the analog inputs into the Anthem. I just got some new Rogers HD cable boxes and couldn't get sound from the coaxial or the optical digital output into the Anthem, even when I tried any of the jacks (and changed the corresponding setting in the menus). I then tried the HDMI connection but couldn't get any sound - in the Anthem video menu it says that it's reading it as a DVI source even though it has hdmi connectors. There's no audio with a DVI source so I'm guessing that the Anthem thinks there isn't one. Unfortunately, the Rogers box doesn't have many adjustments in their version of the operating system/firmware so I can't get any sound from the cable box!!!


I don't watch that much tv down in my mancave anyway but it's cost me my weekend trying to figure this out. It looks like something is shot in the digital input department. The hdmi works fine for my other sources and truthfully I should just take the cable box out or run analog stereo wires into the Anthem for those few times I watch cable down here. Not worth spending a lot of money to fix but just wondering if anyone has been through this and has any suggestions?


I did reload factory settings - no difference. I then reinstalled firmware 1.33. No difference.


thanks.


----------



## agrsiv95

^^^Try a different source to verify its not the Anthem.


When I had TWC the sa8300dvr had to have hdmi turned on in the menu. You said there's not much work with so I'd call them if another source works.


----------



## The Bogg

Yeah I think it's the Anthem b/c 3 sources didn't work using digital coaxial input or optical digital into the Anthem.


Not sure if the cablebox issue I'm having is related or if it's separate...I'll call the cable company first and then see what Anthem says.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22978443
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22976724
> 
> 
> Is it possible on my AVM50 to direct Zone 2 or 3 (or RECORD) to the headphone jack and still use MAIN with the speakers? I want to listen to LPs (Analog Direct) while my significant other watches TV.
> 
> 
> I looked at the manual, as well as searching here, but I can't figure out if it's possible. I apologize if this has been asked before.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> - Mark
> 
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 
> 
> My recollection is that you cannot. The headphone jack is parallel to the MAIN zone. So your only options are to play main and headphones in parallel or to mute the main when the headphones are inserted. Your options are (depending on how crazy and complex you want to get):
> 
> 
> 1) Use a separate headphone amp connected to zone2 or zone3.
> 
> 
> 2) Run all component out from the cable box to the anthem and switch your TV watching to component plus both analog and digital out. When she wants to watch TV, you watch it via one of the TV's AUX component inputs with analog audio via the TVs speakers.
> 
> 
> 3) Get an HDMI 1x2 splitter. Pass one signal to the Anthem. Pass the second signal directly to the TV. She can then watch TV via the TV speakers from a second HDMI input.
> 
> 
> You will just have to find another way to bypass it.
Click to expand...


Thanks very much, after experimenting some more I was coming to the same conclusion. Best option is obviously the separate headphone amp. I think I've spoiled her, she'll never be happy again with the TV's speakers!


Guess I'll be adding yet another box to the system . Time to research headphone amps.


Thanks again,


- Mark


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22979671
> 
> 
> Thanks very much, after experimenting some more I was coming to the same conclusion. Best option is obviously the separate headphone amp. I think I've spoiled her, she'll never be happy again with the TV's speakers!
> 
> 
> Guess I'll be adding yet another box to the system . Time to research headphone amps.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> 
> - Mark



LOL. It's a beautiful thing when we do that to our wives. If you're looking for a headphone amp solution, check out Schiit. Well regarded and reviewed, all USA-built, entry-level to high end, absolutely hysterical product descriptions. They have an intro-level headphone amp at $99. http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=13 going all the way up to Mjolnir at $749 http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=10 


If you are in the mood for one of the best-ever product descriptions, read this: http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=12 


I laugh every single time I read it.


----------



## chileboy

^ These look pretty nice, actually. And you're right, funny write-up. Nice to see they don't take themselves too seriously - love their take on high-end cable-speak.


Thanks, will definitely consider these. Maybe the Valhalla if I can swing it, I use a tube phono preamp, might be a good match.


----------



## The Bogg

Anyone try sending a webform message to Anthem recently? I've got Windows 7 and Internet Explorer 9. After typing a lengthy message and then pressing "send" I got an error message saying that a mandatory field wasn't filled in, and my whole message disappeared. Damn. Retyped it, copied and pasted the message elsewhere and same thing. So I sent the message via email using the address they used to use years ago. Hopefully it goes through. Sometimes technology and progress don't exactly deliver the goods I guess.


----------



## asangamnerkar

Friends,


For my bedroom stereo with room challenges, I am looking for a pre-pro with room correction and I can get a good deal on D1 or D2 with ARC and was wondering how good is the ARC for stereo only?


My other option is Marantz AV7005, Denon 4311 as pre-amp. I also have a Sherwood 972 in another system. Any experience you can share will be appreciated.


And just to clarify....I do not have subwoofer and don't plan to use any.....The speakers I have are B&W 802


Thanks,

AS


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *asangamnerkar*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22982189
> 
> 
> Friends,
> 
> 
> For my bedroom stereo with room challenges, I am looking for a pre-pro with room correction and I can get a good deal on D1 or D2 with ARC and was wondering how good is the ARC for stereo only?
> 
> 
> My other option is Marantz AV7005, Denon 4311 as pre-amp. I also have a Sherwood 972 in another system. Any experience you can share will be appreciated.
> 
> 
> And just to clarify....I do not have subwoofer and don't plan to use any.....The speakers I have are B&W 802
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> AS



The 802's have very nice extension and would do nicely with an ARC correction if you are having any room-related issues. I use ARC in stereo listening myself and the you can notice the difference.


If you are looking at the D1 or D2, then you are also going to benefit from the superlative DACs in those units, which are superior to any of the other units you mentioned. Also, if the other units have Audyssey, they need to have the pro version to give you the flexibility you get out of the box with ARC. The pro version of Audyssey (if the units support it) costs about another $700 to get.


----------



## asangamnerkar

There is also a good deal on NAD 175HD available? I know it has Audyssey XT and if the question has been answered in the 1135 pages of this thread I apologize but can anyone share experience and comparison of NAD 175HD against D2 with ARC?


Thanks


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Dmusoke,
> 
> 
> Thanks for your feedback and a question: Is ARC smoothly correcting that 100Hz notch in the "after" curve? I think it's hard to see with the screen shots that I ran ARC. With the sub, it looks to me like the green line is almost perfectly hugging the ideal target curve. I defer to you all on what you may be seeing.
> 
> 
> Since you brought up the issue of the sub, I was wondering about the rolloff since my side surounds are being crossed over much higher than all the other speakers.
> 
> 
> One thing that I have wondered (and I'm sure it's been answered somewhere somehow) is why ARC rolls off the low end and why in terms of the measurements does every single graph I've seen fall off at the upper end at around 10-20kHz. The beryllium tweeter in the Revels extends far beyond 20 without distortion. Is this a function of the speakers not being pointed straight on towards the microphone? My assumption is that the HF will be most impacted with a rolloff in those cases.


 

1. I think ARC has decided that the downward slope of the response curve is represents the natural room/sub response of your system, hence the correction it gives, including the notch at 100Hz. In my opinion, you should spend time moving the sub about to eliminate or reduce the size of the notch. Use Quick Measure(QM) as an aide in your search for the best sub location. We all have these subs in the beginning and then spend knee & elbow time moving the sub around the room to improve them. The effort is worth it but do it gradually as you watch the change in frequency response using QM.

 

2.  The L/R surrounds are crossed that high due to their frequency response. THX specifies that the minimum frequency of the surrounds should be 80Hz and yours only reach to 125Hz. You may try to move them closer to the wall, if they are not wall mounted already to take advantage of room gain in the low end.

 

3. . High frequency roll off, if the speakers can handle it, is due to several factors including pointing accuracy and microphone frequency response. In your case, again using QM toe-in the speakers to see if the frequency response improves. Make sure the microphone is an ear-height at the primary listening position.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *asangamnerkar*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22983135
> 
> 
> There is also a good deal on NAD 175HD available? I know it has Audyssey XT and if the question has been answered in the 1135 pages of this thread I apologize but can anyone share experience and comparison of NAD 175HD against D2 with ARC?
> 
> 
> Thanks



The Audyssey multEQ XT is not in the same league as ARC. You need to step up to the Audyssey MultEQ XT32 installer version is more comparable to ARC. The installer version gives you the additional flexibility and graphs that ARC gives you out of the box. You can see a chart of the different Audyssey versions here: http://www.audyssey.com/audio-technology/multeq 


You'll see that there's a big difference between MultEQ XT and MultEQ XT32 (non-installer).


When it comes to EQ in my limited experience, the biggest difference will be in the low end of the spectrum and what exactly the EQ needs to do in the room. You always, always, always need to get the best speaker placement you can before you do EQ. Then, EQ is there to help out with the extra that you can't do simply with speaker placement.


There's also more than just the EQ when you are talking about a D2. That's a whole different level. You get better DACs, pristine analog section, ability to have custom movie and music settings, ability to set your surrounds as dipole or direct, tailor your settings by individual input with either bass/treble adjustments or auto-recognize an LFE signal to switch from a music to movie mode, to setting customized video settings for different inputs, etc. etc. If I'm not mistaken you also get 8 HDMI inputs with the D2 (but not sure which version you are referring to) vs only 4 for the NAD.


Now, the one thing that I really, really like about the NAD is it's proposed modular construction and design. The only question that I would ask NAD is what they are doing for 4k, etc. If you have the ability to swap out the board for 4k, that's a nice feature.


There's a quick comparison here between the D2 and the NAD.
_*Comparison*

The NAD T 175 doesn’t have the multitude of setup options of my reference A/V processor, the Anthem Statement D2, or the Anthem’s high level of transparency -- but neither does it have the much higher price of the D2 ($7499 when available). When I listened to “Heart of Gold,” from Neil Young Archives, Vol.1: 1963-1972 (CD, Reprise 0093624996057), the Anthem was better able to convey a sense of energy from this live recording. There was a darker background, and more smoothness to Young’s harmonica, in addition to an authenticity in his voice, that just sounded more alive. The NAD still sounded excellent with music-only recordings, and I thoroughly enjoyed listening to both standard- and hi-rez two-channel recordings through it. Overall, I preferred the sound of the Anthem Statement D2, but considering that the NAD T 175 costs less than half as much, it came surprisingly close._ http://nadelectronics.com/articles/SoundStage-Reviews-the-T-175-AV-PreAmp 


Take it with a grain of salt like anything else. In my opinion, if a D2 was in my budget, I'd grab it. That doesn't imply that the NAD is a slouch. I've owned NAD equipment for years (still have an integrated amp) and it's great sounding equipment.


At the end of the day, I don't think you can go wrong with either and you'd probably be happy with both.


----------



## asangamnerkar

Thanks for sharing your experience and perspective. Will help me tremendously in my search for a processor with good deal!!!!


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *asangamnerkar*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22982189
> 
> 
> For my bedroom stereo with room challenges...
> 
> 
> I do not have subwoofer and don't plan to use any.....The speakers I have are B&W 802



That's why they (B&W) make smaller speakers and subs


----------



## asangamnerkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22988435
> 
> 
> That's why they make smaller speakers and subs



Tried that and went back to B&W....


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *asangamnerkar*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22982189
> 
> 
> Friends,
> 
> 
> For my bedroom stereo with room challenges, I am looking for a pre-pro with room correction and I can get a good deal on D1 or D2 with ARC and was wondering how good is the ARC for stereo only?
> 
> 
> My other option is Marantz AV7005, Denon 4311 as pre-amp. I also have a Sherwood 972 in another system. Any experience you can share will be appreciated.
> 
> 
> And just to clarify....I do not have subwoofer and don't plan to use any.....The speakers I have are B&W 802
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> AS



How do you know the room has "Challenges "?

Most of the work done by ARC is in the sub.

If you are listening only to stereo what are your sources ?


----------



## asangamnerkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22990350
> 
> 
> How do you know the room has "Challenges "?
> 
> Most of the work done by ARC is in the sub.
> 
> If you are listening only to stereo what are your sources ?



I have tried multieq on my Denon 4306 from my home theater as a pre-pro and the improvement was clearly audible.


My sources are all digital. Sirius XM, 320 MP3 from PS3 and Dish Network.


BTW, I was under impression that ARC does work nicely for full range speakers. I did not go thro' the 3300+ pages in this thread, but am I mistaken here?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ ARC works nicely with or without a Sub.


Generally speaking, unless your "full range" speakers have powered woofers, I would recommend you include a Sub. Most "full range" speakers can't reproduce the lowest bass at volume as well as a decent Sub. However, if you don't have a Sub, ARC will certainly take care of the bass your full range speakers are able to reproduce.

--Bob


----------



## asangamnerkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22993014
> 
> 
> ^ ARC works nicely with or without a Sub.
> 
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob. What kind of algorithms and DSP theory ARC uses? EG IIR or FIR? Almost all other RC solutions claim some kind of "blah-blah" transform and algorithms to prove their superiority. Is this a public information for ARC?


Again Not that I understand all the mumbo-jumbo but I am just curious...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Anthem has never published technical details of how ARC works, except to say that it was derived from certain, Canadian funded university research into which aspects of room response added to listening quality and which detracted from it.

--Bob


----------



## DongTeamSetup

I sold in Thailand.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22993014
> 
> 
> ^ ARC works nicely with or without a Sub.
> 
> 
> Generally speaking, unless your "full range" speakers have powered woofers, I would recommend you include a Sub. Most "full range" speakers can't reproduce the lowest bass at volume as well as a decent Sub. However, if you don't have a Sub, ARC will certainly take care of the bass your full range speakers are able to reproduce.
> 
> --Bob



It's a bedroom system with two B&W 802 speakers! I don't think his problem is a LACK of bass


----------



## asangamnerkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22996306
> 
> 
> It's a bedroom system with two B&W 802 speakers! I don't think his problem is a LACK of bass



That is true. I realized after trying out Multieq that bass was bloated. Multieq did clean it up a lot. But my reading on Multieq told me that Multieq does not use "enough" variables and data points for satellites channels....Hence the "upgraditis" to something better....


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *asangamnerkar*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22996534
> 
> 
> That is true. I realized after trying out Multieq that bass was bloated. Multieq did clean it up a lot. But my reading on Multieq told me that Multieq does not use "enough" variables and data points for satellites channels....Hence the "upgraditis" to something better....



OR


Use it as you stated earlier to listen to 2 channel music. Forget the AV processor and use something like the Classé CP-800 D/A preamplifier to listen to your iPod or MP3 music


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *asangamnerkar*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22996534
> 
> 
> That is true. I realized after trying out Multieq that bass was bloated. Multieq did clean it up a lot. But my reading on Multieq told me that Multieq does not use "enough" variables and data points for satellites channels....Hence the "upgraditis" to something better....



Hence my comment about choosing the right size speakers for the room and its placement constraints.


I'll take those nasty 802's off your hands and leave you 804's + ASW 855 Sub










But that's not why you posted here. I dug up this post that might help you understand a bit about Anthem:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/36420#post_21856399
> 
> 
> ... room correction is to be run on top of it, all with a crossover algorithm created to prevent audible rounding errors plus a room correction system that uses twice the processing power as the industry average for home systems and about as same as pro systems. In an ideal world one fast DSP chip would handle everything with no compromise but that has to wait for another time. The D1 was the first processor to use dual Motorola chips, having been planned with room correction in mind, and for that we had to create a way of making one chip talk to the other. It wasn't as easy as it seemed in the beginning and that alone delayed the project more than could have been anticipated. Later, that end evolved into the current dual core Freescale chips with the HD decoders and 8-channel 192 kHz capability, but the perfect system is still elusive. How bad is this? I say hardly bad at all. Hypothetically, others can claim that they have the ideal system but frankly I'll believe that when I see it and wouldn't give up ARC for anything else on the market today. (Yes that's obviously biased even though I just work here, but just try to pry it away...).


----------



## asangamnerkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22996723
> 
> 
> OR
> 
> 
> Use it as you stated earlier to listen to 2 channel music. Forget the AV processor and use something like the Classé CP-800 D/A preamplifier to listen to your iPod or MP3 music



And what kind of room correction does Classe has???


Thanks


----------



## asangamnerkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22997748
> 
> 
> 
> I'll take those nasty 802's off your hands and leave you 804's + ASW 855 Sub



I always thought of 802s as two satellites sitting on top of two passive sub-woofers....


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *asangamnerkar*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22997953
> 
> 
> And what kind of room correction does Classe has???
> 
> 
> Thanks



No room correction.

Just amazing good sound in stereo from your compressed audio digital files.


----------



## asangamnerkar

Not interested in Non-RC DA or pre-pro....I did let go of NAD M15 since it did not have RC.


Thanks for your suggestion though....


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *asangamnerkar*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40050#post_22998011
> 
> 
> I always thought of 802s as two satellites sitting on top of two passive sub-woofers....



But you can't move them apart, as they are physically joined, or adjust the level of woof, therefore harder to find optimal placement.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_22999340
> 
> 
> Micro-dropouts on the 50v:
> 
> I am experienced random and recurring micro-dropouts (something like vinyl ticks) throughout DTS-HD MA movies with 3.09c and 3.09f firmwares on the 50v. I flashed both of these back and forth to see if the flash process was to blame. The problem persisted. I tried 2 different blu-ray players and 2 different HDMI cables, several of the HDMI inputs on the 50v and the problem persisted. It was enough to annoy me as it happened throughout any films that employed this codec. I re-flashed it back down to 3.04b and the dropouts went away. Anyone else experiencing this?



Not hear











You might want to keep an eye on it and try 3.09f again later.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40020#post_22976561
> 
> 
> I have not run back to back measurement with win7 and win8. I usually re-do my arc measurement once every 3month or if have to move furniture around.
> 
> And they weren't worse when I switched to win8. If you have done a back to back measurement with just win7 and win8 as different parameters, you could zip up everything including your .arc and screen shot and send them to anthem support. They have tool to figure out if it is the microphone driver that is behaving differently or the arc software that is computing a different solution.



Have you checked your charts? Is there a volume diff from one to the other ..... do you lose the pop in your tunes when up loading the lower volume charts into your black box? I am not the slp monitor or guru and do not have the ultimate calibration bluray. I would love for someone to show me matching charts from win 7 to 8 and then same slp levels on the right cal cd, till then I need to run arc in windows 7.


Best regards


----------



## dlynch34

would like some feedback on Speakers that work best with anthem d2v that don't necessarily break the bank. I have had to move and my last speakers were in walls and didn't want to remove them. . I am looking for something that is neutral and perhaps a bit airy. I have had tis for several years counting a d2 prior and love the unit and know it is capable of so much and would just like some general feedback knowing that hearing is subjective when it comes to speaker selection. This will be placed in a rather large room 19x40 so I have that to contend with. I can only do 5.1 due to the limitation of the room so 7.1 is out.'



Thanks


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23006613
> 
> 
> would like some feedback on Speakers that work best with anthem d2v that don't necessarily break the bank. I have had to move and my last speakers were in walls and didn't want to remove them. . I am looking for something that is neutral and perhaps a bit airy. I have had tis for several years counting a d2 prior and love the unit and know it is capable of so much and would just like some general feedback knowing that hearing is subjective when it comes to speaker selection. This will be placed in a rather large room 19x40 so I have that to contend with. I can only do 5.1 due to the limitation of the room so 7.1 is out.'
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



Don, what do you define as not breaking the bank? There are lots of really great sounding speakers at different price points. At the room size you are indicating, you will do best will full range speakers to be able to push out more air than a bookshelf.


----------



## dlynch34




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23006820
> 
> 
> Don, what do you define as not breaking the bank? There are lots of really great sounding speakers at different price points. At the room size you are indicating, you will do best will full range speakers to be able to push out more air than a bookshelf.




Thanks for the response. I do know that a full range system is needed I would say something between 2-3k not including the sub is what I am looking around. I know this is a VERY subjective topic and not all speakers will sound the same in a different room but I would like to get some "general" input given the nature of this fine processor that we own


----------



## boyce89976




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23006838
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. I do know that a full range system is needed I would say something between 2-3k not including the sub is what I am looking around. I know this is a VERY subjective topic and not all speakers will sound the same in a different room but I would like to get some "general" input given the nature of this fine processor that we own



That is not a lot to spend on a 5.1 system (not including the .1), and you probably won't find an "airy", "neutral" system for that price. For a little more than that you should look at GoldenEar - the heil tweeter is certainly "airy" although I wouldn't call the towers neutral, although you could go without a sub for a while with the towers.


Your room is large, but is that your listening area? If your listening area is not the whole room, I would not rule out a set of matched bookshelf speakers, something on the larger end, like P'digm Studio 20's or even the new Polk LSiM's.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23006838
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. I do know that a full range system is needed I would say something between 2-3k not including the sub is what I am looking around. I know this is a VERY subjective topic and not all speakers will sound the same in a different room but I would like to get some "general" input given the nature of this fine processor that we own



If you're looking in that price range, I'd suggest one of two things:

Look at the new Revel Performa 3s. By all accounts, they are stunning in both sound and in their new cabinets and finish. I'm a former Performa 2 owner before I upgraded to the Revel Ultima line and just cannot say enough good things about the Revels.
Music Direct in Chicago is moving and they are blowing out many speakers. In particular are the Focals. They have the Electra 1027S for $3295/pair discounted new from $5,500. http://www.musicdirect.com/p-83552-focal-profile-918-diamond-black-pr.aspx They also have the Profile 918 Diamonds discounted from $5,000/pair to $2,999. The complementary bookshelf for each is likewise discounted at about 35%-40% off. http://www.musicdirect.com/p-83552-focal-profile-918-diamond-black-pr.aspx


Those two would be my personal preference off-hand. The other speakers that you may want to look at are the PSBs. However, I'd rather get a better speaker at a discount price, so the Focals in terms of bang for the buck would be my first choice.


The subs for both Revel and Focal to match the series are also excellent; however, I'd give a nod to the Revels given the lineage of the B15, which I personally own myself.


----------



## chileboy

I use a B&K Reference 200.7 power amp with my AVM50. My main setup is 5.1.


Is it possible, or advisable, to use the two unused channels on the B&K for driving remote speakers via the Anthem Zone 2 (or 3) analog audio out (balanced or unbalanced)? Zone 2 might be the same or a different source.


I don't know if this can create some sort of loop or other electrical problem.


Thanks,


- Mark


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlynch34*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23006838
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. I do know that a full range system is needed I would say something between 2-3k not including the sub is what I am looking around. I know this is a VERY subjective topic and not all speakers will sound the same in a different room but I would like to get some "general" input given the nature of this fine processor that we own


Don, is 2-3K per speaker or for 5 speakers? If you like the Anthem, take a look at Paradigm speakers ( same company as Anthem) They have a very good range in speakers at all price.


----------



## xMEATx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23008378
> 
> 
> I use a B&K Reference 200.7 power amp with my AVM50. My main setup is 5.1.
> 
> 
> Is it possible, or advisable, to use the two unused channels on the B&K for driving remote speakers via the Anthem Zone 2 (or 3) analog audio out (balanced or unbalanced)? Zone 2 might be the same or a different source.
> 
> 
> I don't know if this can create some sort of loop or other electrical problem.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> - Mark


I


I do the exact thing and have never noticed an issue.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23008378
> 
> 
> I use a B&K Reference 200.7 power amp with my AVM50. My main setup is 5.1.
> 
> 
> Is it possible, or advisable, to use the two unused channels on the B&K for driving remote speakers via the Anthem Zone 2 (or 3) analog audio out (balanced or unbalanced)? Zone 2 might be the same or a different source.
> 
> 
> I don't know if this can create some sort of loop or other electrical problem.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> - Mark



You can do that without any issue. Maximize what you have. The only issue to be aware of (and this is not an Anthem or B&K issue is if you are using any volume control units for the remote zone. All of the volume control units (like those from Niles) generally don't like amps over 100wpc. So the only possible issue I'd see is if you are using an additional volume control.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23008378
> 
> 
> I use a B&K Reference 200.7 power amp with my AVM50. My main setup is 5.1.
> 
> 
> Is it possible, or advisable, to use the two unused channels on the B&K for driving remote speakers via the Anthem Zone 2 (or 3) analog audio out (balanced or unbalanced)? Zone 2 might be the same or a different source.
> 
> 
> I don't know if this can create some sort of loop or other electrical problem.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23008684
> 
> 
> I do the exact thing and have never noticed an issue.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23008953
> 
> 
> You can do that without any issue. Maximize what you have. The only issue to be aware of (and this is not an Anthem or B&K issue is if you are using any volume control units for the remote zone. All of the volume control units (like those from Niles) generally don't like amps over 100wpc. So the only possible issue I'd see is if you are using an additional volume control.



Great, thanks, and thanks for the caveat.


- Mark


----------



## asangamnerkar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23000674
> 
> 
> But you can't move them apart, as they are physically joined, or adjust the level of woof, therefore harder to find optimal placement.



Agree. That's why wanted a processor that can help in taming the bass in a full range speaker....


----------



## Emosewa09

*See update below, in later post*


I received my new DV2 and finally completed the installation and wiring into my system. Haven't yet run ARC.


I have encountered a problem that I can't solve, and your help and advice would be greatly appreciated. I have two video units connected to the D2V, a Panasonic TC-P65VT30 plasma display, and a JVC DLA-HD750 projector. The Panasonic is connected to HDMI 1 Out and the JVC projector to HDMI 2 Out. The Panasonic can be used for 3D while the projector is 2D only.


My problem occurs when operating entirely in a 2D mode. NOTE that both the Panasonic and the JVC projector are connected ONLY using HDMI and NOT component, including for the projector. Also note that the behavior described below occurs with a Tivo that is connected to the Anthem via component, but is also occurs on Blu-Ray and DVD playes that are connected only through HDMI. In fact, the behavior described below is consistent for all components, regardless of whether they are connected with HDMI or component.


All of them either do or do not allow the use of OSD as consistently described below.


The on-screen display shows up on the Panasonic display only when the video configuration is set to HDMI. I used 1920x1080p 60. The rest of the settings are HDTV-auto-auto-black-normal-Zone 2.


The on-screen display does NOT show up on the projector when using the above. It only works when the video configuration is set to Component with the rest of the settings the same as above.


So if the configuration is set to HDMI, the Panasonic gets OSD, but the projector does not. If the configuration is set to component, the projector gets OSD but the Panasonic does not.


This is very annoying. Why is this happening? What do I need to do to get OSD for both display units, a Panasonic plasma and a JVC projector? Why does the projector require a video configuration of component, when it is receiving an HDMI signal?


I could run both units off of HDMI 1 output, rather than separating them on separate HDMI outputs, if that would make a difference. But why would it? Under that scenario, I could run them both on HDMI 2 output using an HDMI splitter. The Panasonic can take two inputs, so I could run a separate HDMI cable out of HDMI 1 output for 3D.


I have no idea if that would work, and more importantly, would like to know why a plasma display and a projector, that both are only connected via HDMI, can't both show OSD at the same time.


PS Many thanks for the great links and intro at the start of this thread. I have copied all of the ARC postings, and sub postings, into one word document. Once I add the video posts, I will share and post the word document, as it might be useful for other newbies to this this very loooong thread. At least for me, it was useful to copy all of the ARC posts into one document that I could consult.


----------



## Texas steve


If memory serves me right, OSD is ONLY available in HDMI on Input 1 - check manual (im not at home to check)


----------



## Shrike645

I thought OSD was not supported on HDMI2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Correct. That's apparently a limitation of the hardware -- the graphics generator for the OSD only exists on the path to the HDMI 1 output.


(Since he doesn't have Component wires cabled, I'm not sure what he means when he says he can get OSD on the 2nd display if he sets it for Component.)

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23013306
> 
> 
> I received my new DV2 and finally completed the installation and wiring into my system. Haven't yet run ARC.
> 
> 
> I have encountered a problem that I can't solve, and your help and advice would be greatly appreciated. I have two video units connected to the D2V, a Panasonic TC-P65VT30 plasma display, and a JVC DLA-HD750 projector. The Panasonic is connected to HDMI 1 Out and the JVC projector to HDMI 2 Out. The Panasonic can be used for 3D while the projector is 2D only.
> 
> 
> My problem occurs when operating entirely in a 2D mode. NOTE that both the Panasonic and the JVC projector are connected ONLY using HDMI and NOT component, including for the projector. Also note that the behavior described below occurs with a Tivo that is connected to the Anthem via component, but is also occurs on Blu-Ray and DVD playes that are connected only through HDMI. In fact, the behavior described below is consistent for all components, regardless of whether they are connected with HDMI or component.
> 
> 
> All of them either do or do not allow the use of OSD as consistently described below.
> 
> 
> The on-screen display shows up on the Panasonic display only when the video configuration is set to HDMI. I used 1920x1080p 60. The rest of the settings are HDTV-auto-auto-black-normal-Zone 2.
> 
> 
> The on-screen display does NOT show up on the projector when using the above. It only works when the video configuration is set to Component with the rest of the settings the same as above.
> 
> 
> So if the configuration is set to HDMI, the Panasonic gets OSD, but the projector does not. If the configuration is set to component, the projector gets OSD but the Panasonic does not.
> 
> 
> This is very annoying. Why is this happening? What do I need to do to get OSD for both display units, a Panasonic plasma and a JVC projector? Why does the projector require a video configuration of component, when it is receiving an HDMI signal?
> 
> 
> I could run both units off of HDMI 1 output, rather than separating them on separate HDMI outputs, if that would make a difference. But why would it? Under that scenario, I could run them both on HDMI 2 output using an HDMI splitter. The Panasonic can take two inputs, so I could run a separate HDMI cable out of HDMI 1 output for 3D.
> 
> 
> I have no idea if that would work, and more importantly, would like to know why a plasma display and a projector, that both are only connected via HDMI, can't both show OSD at the same time.
> 
> 
> PS Many thanks for the great links and intro at the start of this thread. I have copied all of the ARC postings, and sub postings, into one word document. Once I add the video posts, I will share and post the word document, as it might be useful for other newbies to this this very loooong thread. At least for me, it was useful to copy all of the ARC posts into one document that I could consult.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23013771
> 
> 
> I thought OSD was not supported on HDMI2.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23014012
> 
> 
> ^ Correct. That's apparently a limitation of the hardware -- the graphics generator for the OSD only exists on the path to the HDMI 1 output.
> 
> 
> (Since he doesn't have Component wires cabled, I'm not sure what he means when he says he can get OSD on the 2nd display if he sets it for Component.)
> 
> --Bob



Additionally to being limited to the HDMi 1 OUTPUT.

There is will be no OSD if using Passthrough on a D2v with the 3D board installed


----------



## MACCA350

Anyone know how to access the "frame lock" function in fw 3.09?


I can see in "vid.proc." info tab that the output status shows "frame lock" as "inactive" yet in the output tab the option to change the frame lock setting has disappeared.

The frame lock setting has also disappeared from the quick access "mode" button.


Looks to me like the frame lock function has been removed completely as I just cannot find it anywhere in the menu or quick access buttons???


Cheers


----------



## xMEATx

If I feel that I want a little more bass, does it mess up the current ARC solution, if I increase the sub output under Movie Bass Management menu, by a few db or is it better to increase the room gain setting? Thanks for your help.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23017607
> 
> 
> If I feel that I want a little more bass, does it mess up the current ARC solution, if I increase the sub output under Movie Bass Management menu, by a few db or is it better to increase the room gain setting? Thanks for your help.



I wouldn't do that. Try the LFE/SUB trim button on the remote. That way you can keep track of any adjustments YOU make after ARC.


edit: there are also the tone controls.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *asangamnerkar*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23011269
> 
> 
> Agree. That's why wanted a processor that can help in taming the bass in a full range speaker....



Is it possible they are too big for the room or placed too close to a wall? No processor is going to be able to correct for unwise speaker choice / placement.

Anyway what did you think about Nick's post that I dug up on benefits of ARC over the competition - aren't you convinced yet??


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23016328
> 
> 
> Anyone know how to access the "frame lock" function in fw 3.09?
> 
> 
> I can see in "vid.proc." info tab that the output status shows "frame lock" as "inactive" yet in the output tab the option to change the frame lock setting has disappeared.
> 
> The frame lock setting has also disappeared from the quick access "mode" button.
> 
> 
> Looks to me like the frame lock function has been removed completely as I just cannot find it anywhere in the menu or quick access buttons???
> 
> 
> Cheers



It's possible that it has been superseded by the whole passthrough option (which I am using now). I have not checked but assume it is gone.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23013306
> 
> 
> I received my new DV2 and finally completed the installation and wiring into my system.



Please tell me your D2v is not in a "hidden" installation so that you cannot see the front panel. Are both your displays in the same room? I know it is the "cool" thing to do, but unwise to rely on OSD as you are now painfully aware. Even if it did work, there is always the possibility that some items may appear only on the front panel and not the OSD. I know the MRX has this problem with the volume trims.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23017892
> 
> 
> It's possible that it has been superseded by the whole passthrough option (which I am using now). I have not checked but assume it is gone.


Isn't the passthrough option only available if you have the 3D video board installed? If so that doesn't help me and many others. Also doesn't help those who wish to use the D2v's video processor.


Anyone know if frame lock is available in any of the beta fw after 3.09?


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Frame Lock was pulled. I'm not exactly sure why.


It's still in the Manual, so perhaps they had hopes of restoring it.


ETA: I don't recall when in the Beta process that happened, and this change is not mentioned in the release notes for the various Beta releases.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23019139
> 
> 
> ^ Frame Lock was pulled. I'm not exactly sure why.
> 
> 
> It's still in the Manual, so perhaps they had hopes of restoring it.
> 
> 
> ETA: I don't recall when in the Beta process that happened, and this change is not mentioned in the release notes for the various Beta releases.
> 
> --Bob


That's a shame, I wonder if it was not intentional. Has anyone asked anthem about it?


Just when I've added a media player that has automatic framerate output based on the source. Now I'm constantly changing the D2v's framerate output to match the input, such a pain.


Cheers


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Hello, I am still using my sony PS3 for blue ray with my D2. I am not a 3d guy. Is there any reason newer blu ray players would have a better picture these days? I know the load time would be better but I am not sure about any other reason to get a blu ray player other than that (different sound formats that the oppos offers does not interest me).


So, is there any real picture enhancement with current blue ray players or should i just stick with the PS3?


Thanks


-Bob


----------



## dbox1080p

Wow this thread does not seem too active" where's bob my go to guy"


I am selling my anthem avm 40 and I love it as its the best ever but now I have the D2. I have lost the disk for the avm40 that contains the mic serial number. Can I send my friend the mic and D2 arc kit to work with the avm 40?


I had the mrx300 for a short time and knew that I could use and did use my avm40 ARC kit for running my mrx so the D2 kit should in theory work with the avm40 ?


----------



## dmusoke


I've noticed a couple of odd things on my D2v ...

 

1.  All the blue lights, "out of the blue"







start to rapidly flash on and off. A quick press on the remote silences that motion and they become steady as before. In my case, they are off since i turn off the display.

 

2. Yesterday, i lost audio but not video while watching TV. I tried everything i know to try to resolve the problem, inclduing resetting my cable box, turning the D2v or and off mutliple times, switching inputs around etc.

 

Eventually, the problem was Dolby Volume. I turned it on, i lost all audio for that input!!! I turn if off, audio comes back....really weired. So i left it off, thinking i wouldn't miss it much anyways.

 

So today, after watching "Les Miserables" bluray(superb musical, audio and video A++++), i lost all audio and video when i switched inputs from bluray to TV input. I thought my D2v was completely dead as i saw outputs from the Oppo and cable box when connected direcly to the TV.

 

Half-hour later, i rest the Dev and reprogrammed it. All audio and video has come back so far (fingers crossed). Me-thinks some flash bit/bytes were corrupted and needed to be re-flashed(?). I'm running v3.09f

 

3. My D2v seems to have increased HDMI handshake sequences whichblank audio and video for a few seconds. I'm watching a TV program thru my cabel box or a movie on bluray and voila! ...HDMI handhake right in the middle of the program. Very frustrating indeed...


----------



## Emosewa09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23013767
> 
> 
> If memory serves me right, OSD is ONLY available in HDMI on Input 1 - check manual (im not at home to check)





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23013771
> 
> 
> I thought OSD was not supported on HDMI2.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40080#post_23014012
> 
> 
> ^ Correct. That's apparently a limitation of the hardware -- the graphics generator for the OSD only exists on the path to the HDMI 1 output.
> 
> 
> (Since he doesn't have Component wires cabled, I'm not sure what he means when he says he can get OSD on the 2nd display if he sets it for Component.)
> 
> --Bob



My original posting about my Panasonic display and JVC projector confused the underlying causes. This reply clarifies those issues, and clarifies the symptoms that I saw.


Quoting the D2v manual: "MAIN on-screen display is available via HDMI1 output by default. On-screen display comes from HDMI2 and Component (processed) if "preferred" is changed to "component" in menu 1 submenus."


The manual is hopelessly vague on this point, but any of you can verify the following:


(1) HDMI 2 Output *does* have OSD if you enable the component option in the menu 1 submenu as described in the quote from the manual, see above.


(2) This has nothing to do with whether you are running Component cables, which further adds to the confusion -- and why I was confused by my results.


(3) This applies to the *HDMI* #2 Output, and we are not discussing the Component Output in this regard.


(4) In addition, it does not matter if the piece of electronics that is connected to the D2v is connected via Component or only through HDMI. I tested both -- as can all of you. Devices connected with Component and not with HDMI (in my case a Tivo) can get OSD if the the submenu is changed as described above. Devices connected *only* with HDMI (in my case a Sony DVD player, again, ONLY connected via HDMI to the D2v) also can utilize OSD with HDMI 2 Output if the submenu is set as called for by the manual.


Anyway, this result has nothing to do with whether the display is connected via component or HDMI. The manual is confusing in that regard. It behaves PRECISELY as I described it above. If you connect to a display or projector using HDMI 2 output; use an HDMI cable; do NOT use component; but change the submenu to component -- then you will have OSD from an HDMI connection and HDMI cable when using HDMI Output #2.


My confusing results between a projector and plasma TV had nothing to do with those sources. My original posting confused these issues, because I was looking at two display devices connected to the two different HDMI outputs, and I thus did not narrow down the issues.One was connected to HDMI 1 output and one was connected to HDMI 2 output, and their behavior corresponded to the above. When both were connected to HDMI1 output by using a splitter to send the signal from one output to more than one source, then both the Panasonic plasma and the projector had OSD.


So now we know -- yes, you can get OSD on HDMI 2 output, but you have to change it component in the submenu. *That is the case even when using HDMI and NOT using a component cable.* This option in the D2v also offers an added advantage -- if you want to use a display and not have OSD, then don't change the submenu as described in the manual. In my case, I have a smaller TV in an office near the home theater. So I sent that TV the HDMI signal via HDMI output #2. But I then want to mute the signal on Main in the home theater room as I would otherwise hear both it and the TV in the office. But I don't want to see "Mute" flashing on my TV screen in the home office. So I use HDMI Output #2, but did NOT change the menu, which effectively wiped out the OSD.


So now I can mute the sound in the home theater, where "mute" would flash on the screen, but get video and sound on a TV in my home office, without any flashing OSD.


And to solve the original problem described in my first post on this issue, I now have both the Panasonic display and the projector both connected to HDMI 1 Output and both have OSD.


I hope this information is useful for all of you.


----------



## Emosewa09

*Those who are new to these pre-pro processors might find the attached Word document to be helpful as you learn how to use your new unit.*


I'd like to thank Bob and all of you for the great service that you provide through this forum. You provide invaluable information that is not covered in the D2v manual, and my understanding of the D2v has greatly improved as a result of the comments posted in this thread.


My first step was to read all of the links posted by Bob at the beginning of this thread. But I often wanted to go back and read a specific comment again, but coudn't quickly find it among the long list of the posts. So I copied and pasted almost of the linked posts recommended by Bob, at the start of this thread, into a Word document, which is attached -- and might be helpful to anyone who just purchased one of these pre-pros as I did.


Several caveats. I copied and pasted quickly, and might have missed a post or two. I also did not include the posts about upgrading ARC for those with older units, as that was not of concern to me when I started my copying and pasting. I did include the posts about how to upgrade firmware though. I also tried to differentiate between a posted question and Bob's response by inserting "response," but I might have missed that in a few cases. Finally, I tried to broadly divide the posts between audio and video.


So the bottom line is that I prepared the Word document quickly, and while it might be useful for others, I don't claim I picked up all the posts or pasted correctly.


What is most noteworthy is the sheer length of the document. Using 11 point type, it is 120 pages long. That underscores the number of clarifying posts made by Bob and all of you for the direct benefit of new owners of these processors, such as myself. The amount of information is incredible and it is very comprehensive.


And the credit for those posts goes to Bob and to all of you. All I did was copy and paste without any edits or other comments

*The document also underscores the underlying weakness of the D2v manual -- a point I already made to Nick.* I initially compared the D2v manual to the Lexicon MC12HD manual. The Lexicon manual is far more comprehensive in how it covers operational issues. *Where the D2v manual is really skimpy and inadequate is on ARC and all ARC associated issues, including how to set up one or more subwoofers*. Compare the D2v or ARC manual to the coverage of those issues in this forum and in the attached Word document.


Nick responded that some owners wanted a manual that is shorter and easier to understand. Frankly, I doubt that, and believe that most of us would rather have a manual that is more comprehensive rather than less so. After all, the D2v is $9500 at MSRP. Anyone who buys it is looking for a very sophisticated and complex piece of electronics, and wants to have a full understanding of the subtle operation of the unit.


Nick needs to only compare the attached Word document to the manual, and prepare a list of the issues that are not adequately covered by the manual. Frankly, another example of the inadequate manual is provided in my post directly above this one. The manual provides only two sentences -- yes, two brief sentences -- about OSD using HDMI 2 Output. And that sentence is very vague and confusing. That explains why the experts in this forum also apparently did not fully understand how OSD operates. How could they, given the inadequate coverage in the manual?

*Nick, again, go through the Word document, especially on ARC, to see areas where the manual could be improved. Alternatively, consider covering the more technical issues in a separate manual or in separate web pages in the support section of the Anthem web site.*

AVS Recommended Posts on Anthem processors.doc 396k .doc file


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23029491
> 
> 
> Wow this thread does not seem too active" where's bob my go to guy"
> 
> 
> I am selling my anthem avm 40 and I love it as its the best ever but now I have the D2. I have lost the disk for the avm40 that contains the mic serial number. Can I send my friend the mic and D2 arc kit to work with the avm 40?
> 
> 
> I had the mrx300 for a short time and knew that I could use and did use my avm40 ARC kit for running my mrx so the D2 kit should in theory work with the avm40 ?



No, It will not work.


----------



## studlygoorite


AVS Recommended Posts on Anthem processors.doc 396k .doc file[/quote]


Wow, thanks for this


----------



## Milt99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23029491
> 
> 
> Wow this thread does not seem too active" where's bob my go to guy"
> 
> 
> I am selling my anthem avm 40 and I love it as its the best ever but now I have the D2. I have lost the disk for the avm40 that contains the mic serial number. Can I send my friend the mic and D2 arc kit to work with the avm 40?
> 
> 
> I had the mrx300 for a short time and knew that I could use and did use my avm40 ARC kit for running my mrx so the D2 kit should in theory work with the avm40 ?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23030703
> 
> 
> No, It will not work.



I have 2 D2's and one set of ARC software.

Anthem Tech Support told me that there would be no problem using the ARC software on my PC to calibrate the 2nd D2.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milt99*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23031362
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2 D2's and one set of ARC software.
> 
> Anthem Tech Support told me that there would be no problem using the ARC software on my PC to calibrate the 2nd D2.



I believe you have to make sure that the D2 serial number and the microphone serial number are correctly entered into the 2 files

used for the Anthem Room Correction. The are stored under C:/"USER" /Program Files/ Anthem/ Anthem Room Correction


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23030321
> 
> *Those who are new to these pre-pro processors might find the attached Word document to be helpful as you learn how to use your new unit.*
> 
> AVS Recommended Posts on Anthem processors.doc 396k .doc file


 

Great post indeed Emos! ...I see you don't post much but when you do, you do indeed have gravitas behind your posts







!


----------



## Emosewa09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23031635
> 
> 
> Great post indeed Emos! ...I see you don't post much but when you do, you do indeed have gravitas behind your posts !



Many thanks! I prepared the word doc for my own benefit, but then realized that everyone might benefit from it, especially a newbie like me. I'm sure I will have questions in the next few days as I use ARC for the first time, so I hope the favor can be returned.










By the way, the user name "Emosewa" is a high compliment delivered about my home theater by a gaggle of 12 year old boys. A friend of mine has a 12 year old son, and the son brought his friends. They were pretty wowed by the front speakers (Mangnepan 20.1) that are twice as tall as they are. And 9 speakers and 3,000 watts of power.


They prompty announced that my home theater is Awesome! And then Pure Awesome! At that point the 12 year olds had run out of compliments.


By the time they got home to their mothers, they decided that Awesome simply doesn't do justice to describe the experience. Especially when they discovered that the Dbox chairs moved underneath them. When they walked in the door their mothers asked "so, how was it?" The boys announced in unison, "the home theater is Emosewa!"


"Emosewa?" asked the mothers, not understanding?


The boys explained. Emosewa is Awesome spelled backwards!


So, once I get ARC up and running, I will report on whether ARC is merely awesome, or Pure Awesome, or reaches the high standard of Emosewa. Emosewa is indeed a high standard for the D2v and ARC to aspire to. . . .


----------



## Emosewa09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39300#post_22726028
> 
> 
> AVSFORUMDSD,
> 
> The newer D2v can accept HDMI LPCM up to 7.1 channels 192KHz. It can also accept the newer, high bit-rate Bitstream formats (DTS-HD MA and TrueHD) and decode those itself -- i.e., you don't have to have the player do the decoding. However it still does not accept HDMI DSD, so for SACD playback you will need a player that can decode the DSD format on the SACD disc into LPCM. Similarly, if you want to play HDCD discs (CD music discs with extra dynamic range encoded in), you'll need a player that can decode those to LPCM as well, otherwise it will play like a "normal" CD.
> 
> --Bob



Many thanks to Bob and anyone else who responds. Your help is greatly appreciated.


Bob, I am using an Oppo BDP-105 with the D2v. I would prefer to set up the Oppo once and then be able to not worry about it. I'd also prefer to have the option to play HDCD discs. So that means setting the Oppo to LPCM, and if the Oppo has the option, to send 192khz to the D2v.


(1) Is there any disadvantage to doing this? I believe that means that the Oppo will be decoding the high-rate Bitstream formats rather than the D2v, but does that matter? Except that the front panel of the D2v won't show what format is playing, and you just have to assume that the Oppo is doing its job properly. But I am used to that, as I sent LPCM to a Lexicon for years because the MC12 doesn't decode those formats.


(2) The Oppo does have an "auto" option. I tried that, and the D2v shows "PCM" when playing a CD, and then it shows the high-rate Bitstream format when playing that on a Blu-Ray disc.


I also set the Oppo to Bitstream to see what that does, and the D2v still shows PCM when playing a CD using Bitsream from the Oppo. So it is hard for me to tell what is happening, If I use the "auto" option in the Oppo, is it sending an LPCM signal to the D2v when playing HDCD, in which case it is decoding properly? Or is the Oppo sending a Bitsream singal, in which case the HDCD is not being decoded by the Anthem?


I can't tell, since the D2v says "PCM" under all options when playing a CD -- (a) when the Oppo is set to Bitstream (and presumably sending the wrong signal with no decoding for HDCD) or (b) when the Oppo is set to Auto or (c) the Oppo is set to LPCM.


So what is happening when the Oppo is set to Auto and playing a CD? Is it sending LPCM with HDCD to the Anthem, or is it sending Bitstream with no HDCD to the Anthem?


(3) The Oppo also has a separate section for high quality analog stereo decoding, and it sends that out via balanced connectors, which make it a good choice for the D2v since it has balanced stereo analog inputs. I assume, but don't know, that the analog signal that Oppo outputs on the stereo analog balanced outs is then already properly decoded for HDCD.


(4) Also, I hooked up the 6 channel analog outs from the Oppo to the D2v, but only now realize that the D2v is crippled in that regard. Put simply, the D2v processes signals for both sides and rears, and has outputs to speaker amps for both side and rear speakers. So the D2v has outputs for both side and rear speakers -- the equivalent of 7.1. But since the D2v only has left and right side INputs for 6 channel analog multichannel, but no rear inputs, there is nothing to connect the Oppo 7.1 rear connectors to. It was a really dumb design move by Anthem -- to include both side and rear speakers -- but right next to those outputs, provide only 5.1 INput for multichannel. So the Oppo L and R surround signal goes only to the side speakers, not the rear, when direct analog is utilized. The rear speakers are silent.


I realize that SACDs are 5.1, or 6 channel including the LFE channel. So technically there are no rear channels anyway. It nonetheless provides a much better sound experience when the rear speakers are utilized for SACDs. It would have been nice if Anthem provided 7.1 connectors, since Oppo has 7.1 analog outs, and the the D2v has that many speaker connections in any case.


(5) I then changed the 6 channel selector from Direct Out to instead using DSP processing. At that point all speakers are playing. But does anyone know what is exactly happening? Is the Anthem D2v sending the same identical signal to both sides and rears?


Or does the signal differ to sides and rears, which is what Lexicon does with their L7 processing?


Many thanks for any responses and help


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Lots of questions. Some would probably be better placed in the OPPO 105 Owner's thread, but no matter.


1) The OPPO BDP-105, unlike earlier OPPO players, will do HDCD Decoding even if you have HDMI Audio Bitstream set for output. Basically the Bitstream setting tells the OPPO that it is OK to send Bitstream if the content happens to be Bitstream, but if the content is LPCM then it remains LPCM. CDs and HDCDs are LPCM. So you can set HDCD Decoding ON in the OPPO (the correct choice to use with the D2v), and STILL have the flexibility to use either HDMI Audio LPCM or HDMI Audio Bitstream. Generally speaking the quality will be the same either way, but there can be some differences in approach that you might lead you to want to experiment with both ways and decide for yourself. For example, a 1.0 (monaural) Bitstream can not be sent as 1.0 LPCM (due to technical details), so if you set the OPPO to LPCM output you will get 2.0 LPCM -- what's called dual-channel Mono.


The main reason I prefer to use HDMI Audio LPCM as my default setting with the OPPO is that it lets me leave Secondary Audio set to ON in the OPPO without having to worry about loss of audio quality. Secondary Audio mixing requires the primary audio track to be decoded (just as for LPCM output), but if you have selected Bitstream output, and if the primary was a Bitstream track, then the result AFTER mixing has to be RE-encoded back into a Bitstream for output. No consumer product has the horsepower to encode a lossless Bitstream on the fly like that, so what the OPPO 105 does is output a high bit-rate, but still lossy, DD or DTS track as the re-encode. Thus if you set Bitstream output you should leave Secondary Audio OFF in the OPPO *EXCEPT* when you actually want to use it -- typically for Picture-in-Picture Commentary tracks found on some Blu-ray discs.


The OPPO will send HDMI LPCM up to 7.1 channels up to 192KHz and up to 24-bit to the D2v. However, the OPPO has no "surround sound processing" for HDMI. That means it will not raise a smaller number of content channels to a larger number of HDMI audio output channels. The OPPO also does not "up-sample" audio for output. I.e., if you play stereo content like a CD the OPPO will send stereo LPCM to the D2v. In particular it will send 2.0 LPCM 44.1KHz 16-bit. If you play an HDCD with HDCD Decoding ON, the OPPO will send 2.0 LPCM 44.1KHz 24-bit. The 20-bit dynamic range of the decoded HDCD track is packed into 24-bit output with padding zeroes. In either case, the D2v itself up-samples that 44.1KHz input to 192KHz before doing other processing (such as ARC). Whether it outputs to 2.0 speakers. 2.1 speakers (including the Sub), or more speakers depends on the Speaker Configuration you've set as part of your ARC setup, and the Surround Mode you have selected for use on that input when playing stereo content.



2) You should not use HDMI Audio AUTO in the OPPO. Set LPCM or Bitstream explicitly. AUTO is designed for older processors that can accept traditional, lossy DD and DTS Bitstreams but can not accept lossless TrueHD or DTS-HD MA. The AUTO setting lets the OPPO still send DD and DTS Bitstreams to those processors, but automatically switches to LPCM output when playing TrueHD or DTS-HD MA tracks.


As stated above, if the source audio track is LPCM (as from a CD) then the output from the OPPO 105 will be LPCM.



3) To get HDCD decoding, you need to set HDCD Decoding ON. This is true even for the Analog outputs of the OPPO.



4) The Analog platform for the D2v is dated in that it only accepts 5.1 input, although you can process that up to 7.1 output. At the time it was designed, Analog content sources with even 5.1 output were rare. Some folks enamored of the whiz-bang features in the latest "Receivers", would say even 7.1 is not enough. They want 11.2 output with Height speakers and other such gewgaws.


I use the 5.1 Analog input all the time as part of Beta Testing the OPPO 105 with my D2v, and I think it sounds terrific. When playing 7.1 tracks, the OPPO will down-mix the Rears into the Sides. If you happen to have a 7.1 speaker configuration you can use, e.g., PLIIx-Movie to expand that 5.1 input back up to 7.1 speaker output. How good that sounds will depend on how aggressively the original track mixed content into the Rears.


You mention SACDs. Even if the D2v had 7.1 Analog input, the OPPO still would not place any audio in the Rear channel outputs when playing a 5.1 SACD. So you aren't losing anything in that regard. And of course you can apply, e.g., PLIIx-Music to expand the 5.1 Analog input to 7.1 speakers output if you prefer. My personal recommendation would be that you do *NOT* do that. Listen to 5.1 SACDs using the 5.1 subset of your speakers. But this sort of choice is entirely personal preference.



5) When you have the 6-Channel Analog input set to ANALOG-DIRECT then the D2 acts as "just" a pre-amp. That is, it passes the Analog input to the outputs without doing any processing other than Volume control. In particular, there is no ARC processing, because ARC operates in the Digital domain.


If, instead, you set ANALOG-DSP, then the 6-channel Analog input is re-digitized as it enters the D2v. The resulting Digital audio signal is then processed in all the ways the D2v can do, with the last step being conversion BACK to Analog for output. ANALOG-DSP is required to allow ARC to function for an Analog audio input. ANALOG-DSP also lets the Surround Sound processing Modes function if you choose to use them.


When you have 5.1 Analog input with a 7.1 speaker configuration there are a variety of Surround Modes you can choose between in the D2v to specify how audio gets generated for the Rear speakers. Press the Mode button on the D2v remote and use the Arrow keys to cycle through the possibilities. Setup > Mode Presets lets you specify the default Surround Mode for each input according to each type of input audio format. So when you decide which Modes you like to use most of the time for different types of audio input, you can go into Setup > Mode Presets for each Source and set the desired defaults. You can still use the Mode button and the Arrow keys to make changes on-the-fly if you like.


The simplest Mode is NONE. If NONE is used with 5.1 input, then the Rear speakers will stay silent. The other Surround Modes are described in the Manual. None of them is as simple as just copying the Sides into the Rears.


Personally I find ARC to be an absolutely essential piece of what the D2v does for audio, even for Analog audio input. So I use ANALOG-DSP with the 6-Channel Analog input (and also have Room EQ set to ON to enable the currently Uploaded ARC solution). I don't have the Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs of the OPPO 105 wired separately. Instead I use the RCA L/R jacks of the 105's Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs in lieu of the normal Left-Front / Right-Front RCA jacks from the multi-channel set. This can be done by setting Stereo Signal > FRONT LEFT/RIGHT in the OPPO. I don't use the XLR outputs of the 105 in my configuration.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Bob, do you find there is somehow an increase in sound quality using the Oppo analog outputs even though it is being subject to additional cabling, re-digitized by the Anthem ADC, processed, then sent to the same DAC that it would be if you went directly digital?


I agree about not raising 5.1 music to 7.1 as this kind of music has often already had enough tricks applied to it by the mixing engineers. I don't like to hear a blaring sax behind my head, for example. For movies it's a different matter of course.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^No. I don't find much difference at all using the Analog vs. HDMI -- both going through ARC. They both sound excellent.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

That's what I thought.


Thanks!


----------



## Emosewa09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23036111
> 
> 
> ^ Lots of questions. Some would probably be better placed in the OPPO 105 Owner's thread, but no matter.
> 
> --Bob



My apologies, I didn't consider where to post, but your detailed response is really valuable. As usual, you not only responded to my questions, but you raised other issues, and provided responses, that I had not even considered. As always, thanks very much!


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23036111
> 
> 
> I don't have the Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs of the OPPO 105 wired separately. Instead I use the RCA L/R jacks of the 105's Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs in lieu of the normal Left-Front / Right-Front RCA jacks from the multi-channel set. This can be done by setting Stereo Signal > FRONT LEFT/RIGHT in the OPPO. I don't use the XLR outputs of the 105 in my configuration.
> 
> --Bob



Bob

Could you explain this further ?

Is what you are saying is that you use the normal analog stereo outputs instead of the Multi channel L/R analog outputs as your stereo inputs to the D2v ?

And the advantage ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The 105 has a separate Analog board dedicated to the stereo outputs. But it also offers a setting to configure those to respond to the same settings as the LF/RF jacks of the multi-channel Analog set.


So you can cable the 6-Channel Analog and, for LF/RF, use instead the L/R of the special stereo board.


Now when you do that the D2v has no way of knowing that what's coming might be only Stereo instead of 5.1 with silence, for the moment, in the Surrounds. So you can't apply stereo surround processing as you could if you used any of the stereo jack input pairs.


But I prefer to listen to 2.0 music, and many 2.0 movies, in a 2.1 speaker configuration (with ARC feeding the Sub), and that just happens as a natural consequence of the 6-Channel Analog input only actually having audio in LF/RF. So, voila!


Meanwhile, for multi-channel tracks, I get the output of that special stereo board in lieu of the normal LF/RF. So that's a win, too.

--Bob


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

Hello, I am still using my sony PS3 for blue ray with my D2. I am not a 3d guy. Is there any reason newer blu ray players would have a better picture these days? I know the load time would be better but I am not sure about any other reason to get a blu ray player other than that (different sound formats that the oppos offers does not interest me).


So, is there any real picture enhancement with current blue ray players or should i just stick with the PS3?


Thanks


-Bob


----------



## AVfile

I theory, this one will be a bit better than your PS3 and most other BD players:

http://www.hometheater.com/content/panasonic-dmp-bdt220-blu-ray-3d-player 


> Quote:
> The DMP-BDT220 features Panasonic's latest P4HD color processing and has some of the best chroma resolution I've seen from a player.



But more importantly, whether you will notice the benefit would depend more on your player and display settings. Plus there is the whole world of video calibration that you could get into.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600_40#post_22804087
> 
> 
> $500 or free if your dealer promised you one once the new board was released.
> 
> 
> 
> As the price of Anthem units keep increasing as the years go by, count on this upgrade to increase in price as well.


I don't have a dealer here in Houston and don't want to ship.   Can I get a 3d board from Anthem and put it in my self?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23039540
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39600_40#post_22804087
> 
> 
> $500 or free if your dealer promised you one once the new board was released.
> 
> 
> 
> As the price of Anthem units keep increasing as the years go by, count on this upgrade to increase in price as well.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a dealer here in Houston and don't want to ship.   Can I get a 3d board from Anthem and put it in my self?
Click to expand...

 

You should be able to do so and the install is fairly straigt forward from what i can tell. If you're comfortable swaping out boards in your PC then you should have no problem with the 3D swap. Why the switch to 3D now...do you have a 3D TV?

 

- David


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23037024
> 
> 
> ^ The 105 has a separate Analog board dedicated to the stereo outputs. But it also offers a setting to configure those to respond to the same settings as the LF/RF jacks of the multi-channel Analog set.
> 
> 
> So you can cable the 6-Channel Analog and, for LF/RF, use instead the L/R of the special stereo board.
> 
> 
> Now when you do that the D2v has no way of knowing that what's coming might be only Stereo instead of 5.1 with silence, for the moment, in the Surrounds. So you can't apply stereo surround processing as you could if you used any of the stereo jack input pairs.
> 
> 
> But I prefer to listen to 2.0 music, and many 2.0 movies, in a 2.1 speaker configuration (with ARC feeding the Sub), and that just happens as a natural consequence of the 6-Channel Analog input only actually having audio in LF/RF. So, voila!
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, for multi-channel tracks, I get the output of that special stereo board in lieu of the normal LF/RF. So that's a win, too.
> 
> --Bob


 

So you run your Left/Right from the main stereo boards full range but the surrounds and center are crossed at some frequency when playing MCH media?

 

Or do you switch back and forth between LF/RF and Stereo downmix when playing MCH content and 2.0 content?


----------



## gerard1meehan

Hello one and all,


A while back I had asked a question concerning wiring my home theater. I am in the middle of DIY home theater build that is finally closer to the finish than the beginning but with a year in that really is not much to brag about. But the question I had posed was options between running XLR to two amplifiers position next to each L&R speaker, or traditional speaker cable for a long run to my two front L&R speakers. There were a multitude of posts, and of course a variety of recommendations all backed up by reasonable data.


I have finally made up my mind that all of my speakers will be wired with speaker wire directly from my equipment rack. Since it is not plausible to centrally locate the equipment rack that means the distance to each speaker is not consistent by pair. So my long winded question is this. Would a situation where my front left speaker has a 75ft run and my right had a 50ft run have any effect on the sound? Basically I am asking if I need to keep the speaker cable runs per pair the same length?




Gerard


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40120_40#post_23042022
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to do so and the install is fairly straigt forward from what i can tell. If you're comfortable swaping out boards in your PC then you should have no problem with the 3D swap. Why the switch to 3D now...do you have a 3D TV?
> 
> 
> 
> - David


David, I just changed to a Sony HW50 Projector and it has 3D.  My sources are Oppo 83 (gonna go to a 103) and DTV - all sources go to D2V via HDMI and HDMI1 our to the projector and HDMI2 our to a 60" (non 3D TV).  I only have one run to the projector (HDIM).   If there is a better way, Im for it.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40100_100#post_23042579
> 
> 
> Hello one and all,
> 
> 
> A while back I had asked a question concerning wiring my home theater. I am in the middle of DIY home theater build that is finally closer to the finish than the beginning but with a year in that really is not much to brag about. But the question I had posed was options between running XLR to two amplifiers position next to each L&R speaker, or traditional speaker cable for a long run to my two front L&R speakers. There were a multitude of posts, and of course a variety of recommendations all backed up by reasonable data.
> 
> 
> I have finally made up my mind that all of my speakers will be wired with speaker wire directly from my equipment rack. Since it is not plausible to centrally locate the equipment rack that means the distance to each speaker is not consistent by pair. So my long winded question is this. Would a situation where my front left speaker has a 75ft run and my right had a 50ft run have any effect on the sound? Basically I am asking if I need to keep the speaker cable runs per pair the same length?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gerard


*NO WAY*


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23042579
> 
> 
> Hello one and all,
> 
> 
> A while back I had asked a question concerning wiring my home theater. I am in the middle of DIY home theater build that is finally closer to the finish than the beginning but with a year in that really is not much to brag about. But the question I had posed was options between running XLR to two amplifiers position next to each L&R speaker, or traditional speaker cable for a long run to my two front L&R speakers. There were a multitude of posts, and of course a variety of recommendations all backed up by reasonable data.
> 
> 
> I have finally made up my mind that all of my speakers will be wired with speaker wire directly from my equipment rack. Since it is not plausible to centrally locate the equipment rack that means the distance to each speaker is not consistent by pair. So my long winded question is this. Would a situation where my front left speaker has a 75ft run and my right had a 50ft run have any effect on the sound? Basically I am asking if I need to keep the speaker cable runs per pair the same length?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gerard



Emphatically stated by Drhankz. And justifiably so


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23042763
> 
> *NO WAY*





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23042763
> 
> *NO WAY*



Makes no sense. A 50' run and a 75' run of speaker cable. First consider the cost the cost of a decent speaker cable. And yes both sides should be the same length.

Before you actually do this I would make this recommendation. Get a set of decent balanced cables such as Mogami Gold and the speaker cable in a comparable length to test from a dealer.

I do not believe you will hear any difference.

If you just happen to have a decent audiophile setup of speakers and amps you might find the balanced setup better.

I went from a 25 ft length of high cost speaker cables to a balanced setup of Mogami and the result was impressive.

Less noise, quieter background and cleaner highs.

Think also about this.

Would you run a 75 ft length of speaker cable to drive your subwoofer or a simple run of interconnect ?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23042691
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40120_40#post_23042022
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to do so and the install is fairly straigt forward from what i can tell. If you're comfortable swaping out boards in your PC then you should have no problem with the 3D swap. Why the switch to 3D now...do you have a 3D TV?
> 
> 
> 
> - David
> 
> 
> 
> David, I just changed to a Sony HW50 Projector and it has 3D.  My sources are Oppo 83 (gonna go to a 103) and DTV - all sources go to D2V via HDMI and HDMI1 our to the projector and HDMI2 our to a 60" (non 3D TV).  I only have one run to the projector (HDIM).   If there is a better way, Im for it.
Click to expand...

 

You should be fine with the board swap yourself. Other might know whwther its done before or after a FW upgrade, if you are using the latest FW.

Also read up on post #40114 from Emosewa on how to get OSD from both HDMI1 & 2 outputs. Very informative post.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23042025
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23037024
> 
> 
> ^ The 105 has a separate Analog board dedicated to the stereo outputs. But it also offers a setting to configure those to respond to the same settings as the LF/RF jacks of the multi-channel Analog set.
> 
> 
> 
> So you can cable the 6-Channel Analog and, for LF/RF, use instead the L/R of the special stereo board.
> 
> 
> 
> Now when you do that the D2v has no way of knowing that what's coming might be only Stereo instead of 5.1 with silence, for the moment, in the Surrounds. So you can't apply stereo surround processing as you could if you used any of the stereo jack input pairs.
> 
> 
> 
> But I prefer to listen to 2.0 music, and many 2.0 movies, in a 2.1 speaker configuration (with ARC feeding the Sub), and that just happens as a natural consequence of the 6-Channel Analog input only actually having audio in LF/RF. So, voila!
> 
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, for multi-channel tracks, I get the output of that special stereo board in lieu of the normal LF/RF. So that's a win, too.
> 
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you run your Left/Right from the main stereo boards full range but the surrounds and center are crossed at some frequency when playing MCH media?
> 
> 
> Or do you switch back and forth between LF/RF and Stereo downmix when playing MCH content and 2.0 content?
Click to expand...


The Analog output from the OPPO is set to be full range for all channels regardless of whether I'm playing stereo or multi-channel content (Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT, all speakers LARGE, Sub ON, Down-mix 5.1). That means the only output on the Sub line is from LFE, which of course only exists in multi-channel content. The 6-CH input of the D2v is set to ANALOG-DSP with Room EQ ON. That means that ARC takes that input and applies bass management. So for stereo content, only the LF/RF input lines are active on the 6-CH input, but ARC produces 2.1 output from that (silence to the other speakers). For multi-channel content, ARC preserves the LFE coming in on the Sub line and adds bass steered from the other speaker channels.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23033122
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23031635
> 
> 
> Great post indeed Emos! ...I see you don't post much but when you do, you do indeed have gravitas behind your posts !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks! I prepared the word doc for my own benefit, but then realized that everyone might benefit from it, especially a newbie like me. I'm sure I will have questions in the next few days as I use ARC for the first time, so I hope the favor can be returned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, the user name "Emosewa" is a high compliment delivered about my home theater by a gaggle of 12 year old boys. A friend of mine has a 12 year old son, and the son brought his friends. They were pretty wowed by the front speakers (Mangnepan 20.1) that are twice as tall as they are. And 9 speakers and 3,000 watts of power.
> 
> 
> They prompty announced that my home theater is Awesome! And then Pure Awesome! At that point the 12 year olds had run out of compliments.
> 
> 
> By the time they got home to their mothers, they decided that Awesome simply doesn't do justice to describe the experience. Especially when they discovered that the Dbox chairs moved underneath them. When they walked in the door their mothers asked "so, how was it?" The boys announced in unison, "the home theater is Emosewa!"
> 
> 
> "Emosewa?" asked the mothers, not understanding?
> 
> 
> The boys explained. Emosewa is Awesome spelled backwards!
> 
> 
> So, once I get ARC up and running, I will report on whether ARC is merely awesome, or Pure Awesome, or reaches the high standard of Emosewa. Emosewa is indeed a high standard for the D2v and ARC to aspire to. . . .
Click to expand...

 

Awesome story indeed







!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23042579
> 
> 
> Hello one and all,
> 
> 
> A while back I had asked a question concerning wiring my home theater. I am in the middle of DIY home theater build that is finally closer to the finish than the beginning but with a year in that really is not much to brag about. But the question I had posed was options between running XLR to two amplifiers position next to each L&R speaker, or traditional speaker cable for a long run to my two front L&R speakers. There were a multitude of posts, and of course a variety of recommendations all backed up by reasonable data.
> 
> 
> I have finally made up my mind that all of my speakers will be wired with speaker wire directly from my equipment rack. Since it is not plausible to centrally locate the equipment rack that means the distance to each speaker is not consistent by pair. So my long winded question is this. Would a situation where my front left speaker has a 75ft run and my right had a 50ft run have any effect on the sound? Basically I am asking if I need to keep the speaker cable runs per pair the same length?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gerard



No worries. The electrical signal on the cable travels at the speed of light, which means a 25 foot difference means nothing as far as signal timing. For example, it is totally irrelevant when setting your speaker distances or adjusting Subwoofer Phase.


Theoretically the 25 foot difference *MIGHT* allow the cables to diverge in other ways the signal is modified as it travels along the cable, but the odds of that divergence being enough that you can hear the difference is vanishingly small. There is likely more manufacturing difference in your Left and Right speakers than anything that 25 foot cable disparity could produce.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23043612
> 
> 
> There is likely more manufacturing difference in your Left and Right speakers than anything that 25 foot cable disparity could produce.
> 
> --Bob



... or in your left & right ears, and heaven forbid you move your head 1 inch to either side!


There is also ARC which corrects each speaker individually.


However 125 ft of 10 or 12-guage speaker wire is a lot of copper!

http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm#wiretable


----------



## matted

Hey everyone,


I've been doing a lot of searching and reading through some of the thousands of pages of this epic thread. I think I have this right but want to confirm.... I'm looking at picking up a used Anthem piece, and my budget is pretty limited I definitely can't afford the AVM 50v or D2v, even used. I don't need video processing in my pre/pro (although it can never hurt), I am mainly interested in ARC and PCM 5.1 over HDMI. The MRX receivers are attractive, but I would like the balanced in/out and analog bypass that the AVM and D2 lines offer. So I'm looking at an AVM 40, AVM 50, or D2, and just want to make sure I have this right. Are the following statements true?


-AVM 40 and AVM 50 can support ARC, but require a DSP upgrade to do so. If I buy one without ARC, this upgrade is no longer available.


-D2 can support ARC without a DSP upgrade, but I still require a microphone kit (assuming the used piece doesn't come with one. This kit is still available from Anthem.


Do I have this right?


Thanks!


Matt


----------



## gerard1meehan

Everyone,



I appreciate all of the feedback. I have purchased Marshal Soundrunner 10 gauge cable (Mogami) , and I am very comfortable with its specs. So many “audiophile” manufacturers state they have to be the same distance. However the folks who wired recording studios for a living felt this was a “stretch”


Wanted to vet it out before I run wires and close up walls


Gerard


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matted*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23043697
> 
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> 
> I've been doing a lot of searching and reading through some of the thousands of pages of this epic thread. I think I have this right but want to confirm.... I'm looking at picking up a used Anthem piece, and my budget is pretty limited I definitely can't afford the AVM 50v or D2v, even used. I don't need video processing in my pre/pro (although it can never hurt), I am mainly interested in ARC and PCM 5.1 over HDMI. The MRX receivers are attractive, but I would like the balanced in/out and analog bypass that the AVM and D2 lines offer. So I'm looking at an AVM 40, AVM 50, or D2, and just want to make sure I have this right. Are the following statements true?
> 
> 
> -AVM 40 and AVM 50 can support ARC, but require a DSP upgrade to do so. If I buy one without ARC, this upgrade is no longer available.
> 
> 
> -D2 can support ARC without a DSP upgrade, but I still require a microphone kit (assuming the used piece doesn't come with one. This kit is still available from Anthem.
> 
> 
> Do I have this right?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Matt



Yes. So you can evaluate pricing, the original retail price of the ARC kit for the D2 (i.e., before they started bundling it with every D2 and D2v) was $400. For that you got the specially calibrated mic, mic stand, cabling and Windows PC software used during ARC setup. The kit for the AVM processors (again, before they started bundling it) was $800. The price difference was for the replacement DSP board needed for those processors.

--Bob


----------



## matted




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23043901
> 
> 
> Yes. So you can evaluate pricing, the original retail price of the ARC kit for the D2 (i.e., before they started bundling it with every D2 and D2v) was $400. For that you got the specially calibrated mic, mic stand, cabling and Windows PC software used during ARC setup. The kit for the AVM processors (again, before they started bundling it) was $800. The price difference was for the replacement DSP board needed for those processors.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob! Your outstanding contributions to this thread and community are greatly appreciated.


Cheers,


Matt


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23043576
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23042025
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23037024
> 
> 
> ^ The 105 has a separate Analog board dedicated to the stereo outputs. But it also offers a setting to configure those to respond to the same settings as the LF/RF jacks of the multi-channel Analog set.
> 
> 
> 
> So you can cable the 6-Channel Analog and, for LF/RF, use instead the L/R of the special stereo board.
> 
> 
> 
> Now when you do that the D2v has no way of knowing that what's coming might be only Stereo instead of 5.1 with silence, for the moment, in the Surrounds. So you can't apply stereo surround processing as you could if you used any of the stereo jack input pairs.
> 
> 
> 
> But I prefer to listen to 2.0 music, and many 2.0 movies, in a 2.1 speaker configuration (with ARC feeding the Sub), and that just happens as a natural consequence of the 6-Channel Analog input only actually having audio in LF/RF. So, voila!
> 
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, for multi-channel tracks, I get the output of that special stereo board in lieu of the normal LF/RF. So that's a win, too.
> 
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you run your Left/Right from the main stereo boards full range but the surrounds and center are crossed at some frequency when playing MCH media?
> 
> 
> Or do you switch back and forth between LF/RF and Stereo downmix when playing MCH content and 2.0 content?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> The Analog output from the OPPO is set to be full range for all channels regardless of whether I'm playing stereo or multi-channel content (Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT, all speakers LARGE, Sub ON, Down-mix 5.1). That means the only output on the Sub line is from LFE, which of course only exists in multi-channel content. The 6-CH input of the D2v is set to ANALOG-DSP with Room EQ ON. That means that ARC takes that input and applies bass management. So for stereo content, only the LF/RF input lines are active on the 6-CH input, but ARC produces 2.1 output from that (silence to the other speakers). For multi-channel content, ARC preserves the LFE coming in on the Sub line and adds bass steered from the other speaker channels.
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...

 

OK, maybe i missed something but I thought you said to use the special L/R outputs of the stereo board and not the FL/FR from the MCH outputs in the prior post?


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsinclair*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39270#post_22720972
> 
> 
> @boyce89976 I'm getting the exact same problem with my Xbox, I've posted to this thread previously about it.
> 
> 
> When powering on the Xbox I get the weird/loud repeating static and have to switch away from the Xbox input and then back again.



I realize this post is from a ways back, but has anyone found a solution to the Xbox HDMI static/clicking? Tonight I simply cannot fix it, no matter what I do (scratch that, powering the 50V off/on solved it tonight). I sort of "dealt" with the issue since ever since the 3D upgrade my system has been in a state of flux, and the issue was intermittent. But my equipment has finally stabilized and now the issue is basically consistent every time I turn the 360 on.


So what do I have, well, it's an AVM50V 3D, with the 3.09 software the dealer installed when they put the new 3D board in.

An Xbox 360, not a Slim, one of the 250GB models

Lumagen RadianceXE 3D

Darbee Darblet

Planar 8150

SageTV HD300

Pioneer BDP-51FD

All Blue Jeans Cable 7' or greater (Tartan for the short ones, Series FE to the projector), I replaced some shorter ones hoping it would help.

Everything feeds into the Radiance, then HDMI1 goes to the AVM50V, and HDMI 2 to the Planar via the Darbee. So I do all the switching in the Radiance.


Actually this configuration, other than the Xbox is probably a bit more stable/reliable than before I added the Radiance (HD300 had handshake issues: wrong colorspace/etc), but the Xbox has definitely gotten worse.


So, anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23045609
> 
> 
> OK, maybe i missed something but I thought you said to use the special L/R outputs of the stereo board and not the FL/FR from the MCH outputs in the prior post?



What you missed is that the OPPO BDP-105 lets you do precisely that. The Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs can be configured EITHER to operate independently OR to act in lieu of the normal LF/RF outputs of the multi-channel Analog set.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23045689
> 
> 
> I realize this post is from a ways back, but has anyone found a solution to the Xbox HDMI static/clicking? Tonight I simply cannot fix it, no matter what I do (scratch that, powering the 50V off/on solved it tonight). I sort of "dealt" with the issue since ever since the 3D upgrade my system has been in a state of flux, and the issue was intermittent. But my equipment has finally stabilized and now the issue is basically consistent every time I turn the 360 on.
> 
> 
> So what do I have, well, it's an AVM50V 3D, with the 3.09 software the dealer installed when they put the new 3D board in.
> 
> An Xbox 360, not a Slim, one of the 250GB models
> 
> Lumagen RadianceXE 3D
> 
> Darbee Darblet
> 
> Planar 8150
> 
> SageTV HD300
> 
> Pioneer BDP-51FD
> 
> All Blue Jeans Cable 7' or greater (Tartan for the short ones, Series FE to the projector), I replaced some shorter ones hoping it would help.
> 
> Everything feeds into the Radiance, then HDMI1 goes to the AVM50V, and HDMI 2 to the Planar via the Darbee. So I do all the switching in the Radiance.
> 
> 
> Actually this configuration, other than the Xbox is probably a bit more stable/reliable than before I added the Radiance (HD300 had handshake issues: wrong colorspace/etc), but the Xbox has definitely gotten worse.
> 
> 
> So, anyone have any suggestions?



I had to run optical for my Xbox because of this, after upgrading to 3D my problem was fixed and I went back to HDMI


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23045689
> 
> 
> I realize this post is from a ways back, but has anyone found a solution to the Xbox HDMI static/clicking? Tonight I simply cannot fix it, no matter what I do (scratch that, powering the 50V off/on solved it tonight). I sort of "dealt" with the issue since ever since the 3D upgrade my system has been in a state of flux, and the issue was intermittent. But my equipment has finally stabilized and now the issue is basically consistent every time I turn the 360 on.
> 
> 
> So what do I have, well, it's an AVM50V 3D, with the 3.09 software the dealer installed when they put the new 3D board in.
> 
> An Xbox 360, not a Slim, one of the 250GB models
> 
> Lumagen RadianceXE 3D
> 
> Darbee Darblet
> 
> Planar 8150
> 
> SageTV HD300
> 
> Pioneer BDP-51FD
> 
> All Blue Jeans Cable 7' or greater (Tartan for the short ones, Series FE to the projector), I replaced some shorter ones hoping it would help.
> 
> Everything feeds into the Radiance, then HDMI1 goes to the AVM50V, and HDMI 2 to the Planar via the Darbee. So I do all the switching in the Radiance.
> 
> 
> Actually this configuration, other than the Xbox is probably a bit more stable/reliable than before I added the Radiance (HD300 had handshake issues: wrong colorspace/etc), but the Xbox has definitely gotten worse.
> 
> 
> So, anyone have any suggestions?



I have the 50v without the 3D upgrade. The only thing that worked for me is setting the Xbox to output 2 channel. Unfortunately it leaves your backside exposed in multiplayer games. Now I log in with my volume down low and go directly to settings and change the resolution. It doesn't matter what one you pick, so I alternate between 1080i and 1080p. Whatever one I chose the last time I used my Xbox, the next time I turn it on, I choose the other resolution. It's faster than turning off and turning on various pieces of equipment. I've tried all different combinations of settings in the 50v and Xbox, also different sequences of powering on equipment, nothing has worked other than setting the Xbox to stereo.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23046141
> 
> 
> I had to run optical for my Xbox because of this, after upgrading to 3D my problem was fixed and I went back to HDMI



Mine went the other way, it was fine until I got the 3D upgrade, and now it doesn't work. Though since the Xbox doesn't really "support" HDMI audio, maybe I should just go back to Component+S/PDIF.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23046606
> 
> 
> Mine went the other way, it was fine until I got the 3D upgrade, and now it doesn't work. Though since the Xbox doesn't really "support" HDMI audio, maybe I should just go back to Component+S/PDIF.



I apologize, I still have the problem. Many other things were fixed after my 3D upgrade but not this. I am still running optical.


----------



## chileboy

I'm having a strange issue with my AVM50 ARC.


I recently set up a new turntable, and I've discovered that my audio image seems to be shifted to the right. At first I thought it was my turntable, but by reversing leads between components, it is definitely the Anthem - bottom line, if I switch the L/R leads from my phono stage at the back of the Anthem, the image remains shifted to the right.


It doesn't seem to be limited to analog sources (my turntable is the only one) - I have the issue with digital sources as well. It exists with the turntable when using either Analog-Direct or Analog-DSP. And last night I experimented with my Roku (HDMI) and two-channel source material (ripped from CD), and I have the same problem.


I eliminated my power amp and speakers as the problem, because if I plug headphones into the jack on the front of the Anthem, it's easily noticeable.


The balance needs to be set about "two dashes" to the left in the OSD in order to center the image.


I tried a number of recordings, concentrating on mono, all with the same result.


I'm not sure if this has been a problem for awhile, because this is the first truly critical music listening I've done for quite some time (as my old turntable took a dive not long after I got the Anthem). It's difficult for me to tell if it's an issue when any of the surround modes are engaged, I guess due to the more diffuse nature of the sound, and last night it was getting rather late and I didn't really explore that - and again, I'm not sure how to test for it.


I've gone through every setting on the unit (accessible from the OSD) and I can't see anything amiss.


I'd greatly appreciate some advice...thanks.


- Mark


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23047044
> 
> 
> I'm having a strange issue with my AVM50 ARC.
> 
> 
> I recently set up a new turntable, and I've discovered that my audio image seems to be shifted to the right. At first I thought it was my turntable, but by reversing leads between components, it is definitely the Anthem - bottom line, if I switch the L/R leads from my phono stage at the back of the Anthem, the image remains shifted to the right.
> 
> 
> It doesn't seem to be limited to analog sources (my turntable is the only one) - I have the issue with digital sources as well. It exists with the turntable when using either Analog-Direct or Analog-DSP. And last night I experimented with my Roku (HDMI) and two-channel source material (ripped from CD), and I have the same problem.
> 
> 
> I eliminated my power amp and speakers as the problem, because if I plug headphones into the jack on the front of the Anthem, it's easily noticeable.
> 
> 
> The balance needs to be set about "two dashes" to the left in the OSD in order to center the image.
> 
> 
> I tried a number of recordings, concentrating on mono, all with the same result.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if this has been a problem for awhile, because this is the first truly critical music listening I've done for quite some time (as my old turntable took a dive not long after I got the Anthem). It's difficult for me to tell if it's an issue when any of the surround modes are engaged, I guess due to the more diffuse nature of the sound, and last night it was getting rather late and I didn't really explore that - and again, I'm not sure how to test for it.
> 
> 
> I've gone through every setting on the unit (accessible from the OSD) and I can't see anything amiss.
> 
> 
> I'd greatly appreciate some advice...thanks.
> 
> 
> - Mark



Mark


Have you tried putting the headphones on backwards to see if the louder sound switches sides ?

I know it sounds silly but maybe your ears are the culprits ?


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23047122
> 
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> Have you tried putting the headphones on backwards to see if the louder sound switches sides ?
> 
> I know it sounds silly but maybe your ears are the culprits ?










Yes, actually I did - I thought of that because I am just getting over a headcold!


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23047344
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, actually I did - I thought of that because I am just getting over a headcold!



Sounds like you have tried all the alternatives including

Switched interconnects to the amps

Switched the headphones to the opposite ear

Switched speakers

Tried different sources both digital and analog


How about restoring the Anthem to the System default settings ?

And finally re-install the firmware ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23047044
> 
> 
> I'm having a strange issue with my AVM50 ARC.
> 
> 
> I recently set up a new turntable, and I've discovered that my audio image seems to be shifted to the right. At first I thought it was my turntable, but by reversing leads between components, it is definitely the Anthem - bottom line, if I switch the L/R leads from my phono stage at the back of the Anthem, the image remains shifted to the right.
> 
> 
> It doesn't seem to be limited to analog sources (my turntable is the only one) - I have the issue with digital sources as well. It exists with the turntable when using either Analog-Direct or Analog-DSP. And last night I experimented with my Roku (HDMI) and two-channel source material (ripped from CD), and I have the same problem.
> 
> 
> I eliminated my power amp and speakers as the problem, because if I plug headphones into the jack on the front of the Anthem, it's easily noticeable.
> 
> 
> The balance needs to be set about "two dashes" to the left in the OSD in order to center the image.
> 
> 
> I tried a number of recordings, concentrating on mono, all with the same result.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if this has been a problem for awhile, because this is the first truly critical music listening I've done for quite some time (as my old turntable took a dive not long after I got the Anthem). It's difficult for me to tell if it's an issue when any of the surround modes are engaged, I guess due to the more diffuse nature of the sound, and last night it was getting rather late and I didn't really explore that - and again, I'm not sure how to test for it.
> 
> 
> I've gone through every setting on the unit (accessible from the OSD) and I can't see anything amiss.
> 
> 
> I'd greatly appreciate some advice...thanks.
> 
> 
> - Mark



A few things to try to eliminate the simple stuff.


First, make sure you don't have a "temporary" level setting which is confusing things. These are the settings you make with the buttons on the remote. To reset all of them at once, go into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video at this point, continue using the Front Panel display.

3) Reload Saved User Settings.


The "temporary" settings are not saved, so this resets all of them.



Next, make sure that you have not accidentally altered some of the settings that ARC Uploaded into Setup for you. To do this, cable up your Windows PC, and double-click on your latest ARC results file, which will open it in the charts view. Now just do an Upload (line of buttons top left). That will re-Upload your ARC solution, including the settings made in Setup.


After completing the Upload, I suggest you go into Setup and Save User and Installer Settings to record what ARC has Uploaded into Setup for you.



Next, check your speaker distances in Setup > Listener Position. Screwed up speaker distances will make sounds that should be localized between a pair of speakers actually appear to be coming from the speaker that is at the bogus, closer relative position.



Next, go into Setup > Source Setup for each Source line in turn. First make sure that Room EQ is ON (enabling ARC). I also suggest you set Dolby Volume OFF while diagnosing this.


For any Source using Analog audio input (either stereo or 6-CH), be sure that you have ANALOG-DSP set -- not ANALOG-DIRECT. ANALOG-DSP is needed when using ARC as the Analog audio input has to be re-digitized for ARC to work. Using ANALOG-DIRECT, among other things, bypasses ARC for that Source.




Having done the above -- in particular having done the re-Upload of your ARC solution. Check your speaker levels again. Since you are using ARC, I recommend that you use a calibration disc instead of the internal test tones in Setup > Level Calibration, so that you hear the full effect of ARC.


For example, use the LPCM test tracks from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, along with an SPL meter (so you are not dependent on hearing audio properly with your head cold). To keep things simple, I suggest you use HDMI LPCM audio from a Blu-ray player for this test.


While you are at it, use the speaker polarity test track to make sure all of your speakers are wired with the same polarity. Having some speakers wired with the polarity reversed will also screw up audio imaging, which can sound like a Balance problem.




If the above does not fix the problem, then you should give Anthem Tech Support a call. Your Anthem may need service.


They will likely ask you to redo your ARC Setup to make sure the problem isn't with your current ARC solution, but since the Headphones don't use ARC, if you are STILL hearing the same problem in the Headphones as the SPL meter and calibration disc is showing you on the main speakers, then it is likely not an ARC setup issue.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23047044
> 
> 
> 
> I have the issue with digital sources as well. It exists with the turntable when using either Analog-Direct or Analog-DSP.
> 
> thanks.
> 
> 
> - Mark




Bob


Maybe you missed his statement but he states it is happening with Analog Direct which eliminates any of your above suggestions except the reset to default settings.


He still should try the reset and also re-install the firmware


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It is easy for the user to get confused when checking an issue like this. Going through the basic steps I recommended won't take very long, and eliminates some possible points of confusion.


Which is a polite way of saying his report may not be completely accurate.










A hardware failure that affects just the volume (not the quality) of just one speaker output, and ALSO affects the matching headphone side the same way would be pretty unusual as they are different output circuits. An ARC failure doing that would be even more unusual since ARC does not apply to the headphone outputs.


So instead I'm just gong down the basic checklist for speaker level problems that might arise inside the AVM 50v.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

I've never even used an analog input on my Anthem, so maybe many of us have the problem and don't even know


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ As reported, his problem is also with digital Input, so odds are you would notice. Of course as with any complicated device, there's a chance of problems in parts you haven't used. Many folks never use Zone 3 for example. Or the AM Tuner. Or Simulcast audio.


Nick mentioned once the incredible number of steps necessary to vet a newly manufactured or repaired unit as actually working. It is highly unlikely any single, real user tries ALL that stuff.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23050298
> 
> 
> ^ As reported, his problem is also with digital Input,



I thought he meant digital sources in the traditional sense, eg: CD player (as opposed to vinyl) connected via analog.


If so that would indicate there is something wrong with the analog input levels in the Anthem.


Do you know if the vertical bar graphs on the OSD next to the Analog(DSP) Input Levels show each channel individually or just a peak average of the channels? It's mentioned in the user manual section 3.8 but not clear... and could be handy to characterize the problem.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23050093
> 
> 
> I've never even used an analog input on my Anthem, so maybe many of us have the problem and don't even know



You should get a pure analog source and try them. Anthem has a great analog direct system with a fabulous volume control.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23049420
> 
> 
> ^ It is easy for the user to get confused when checking an issue like this. Going through the basic steps I recommended won't take very long, and eliminates some possible points of confusion.
> 
> 
> Which is a polite way of saying his report may not be completely accurate.



I get it







...thanks so much for all the suggestions...I will walk through them this weekend.


During my long commute today, I was wondering (especially in light of your remark about the speakers and headphones being on separate circuits), is it at all possible that some other connected component is flaky and drawing current somehow from one channel? I realized I do have some components connected to analog in, namely, my 6-channel from my Denon universal player and also L/R analog from my Pioneer laserdisc player.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23050342
> 
> 
> I thought he meant digital sources in the traditional sense, eg: CD player (as opposed to vinyl) connected via analog.
> 
> 
> If so that would indicate there is something wrong with the analog input levels in the Anthem.



Actually, as I clarified above, I do have other sources connected via analog , but haven't checked that...the digital source I was referring to was my Roku XS connected via HDMI, streaming 2-channel audio.


Thanks again to everyone for the input, I appreciate it.


- Mark


----------



## Bruceko

I am getting a new Macbook pro. I plan on installing Windows 7 on the boot camp partition.

For my D2 I am running ARC2.01. Should I instal the 32 bit or 64 bit of Window 7?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40100_100#post_23054672
> 
> 
> I am getting a new Macbook pro. I plan on installing Windows 7 on the boot camp partition.
> 
> For my D2 I am running ARC2.01. Should I instal the 32 bit or 64 bit of Window 7?



Your


MacBook Pro is 64 bit


----------



## Bruceko




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23054682
> 
> 
> Your
> 
> 
> MacBook Pro is 64 bit


So it doesn't matter if the software is 32 bit or 64bit?

Also does anyone know what the most current version of ARC for the d2?


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23054711
> 
> 
> So it doesn't matter if the software is 32 bit or 64bit?
> 
> Also does anyone know what the most current version of ARC for the d2?


32 bit software will run on windows 64 but you should be using the new version of ARC


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bruceko*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23054711
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23054682
> 
> 
> Your
> 
> 
> MacBook Pro is 64 bit
> 
> 
> 
> So it doesn't matter if the software is 32 bit or 64bit?
> 
> Also does anyone know what the most current version of ARC for the d2?
Click to expand...


If your intent is only to run ARC on the Windows partition, the 32-bit version of Windows 7 will be fine (even on a 64-bit Mac). Generally speaking, with Windows my recommendation is to keep it simple.


The D2 should have firmware V1.33.


The ARC software should be V3.0.2, downloaded from the Anthem site. It is quite likely your original ARC install CD has a version of ARC too old to be used with Windows 7, so do NOT install from the CD. Instead, install using V3.0.2 downloaded from the Anthem site. Simply copy the ARC license and ARC mic calibration data files from your original ARC install CD into the location of the Setup.exe program (the installer itself) in the version you download from the Anthem site and Unzip. Then Eject the original ARC install CD and run Setup.exe from the downloaded copy to do the install on your new Windows 7 partition. The two files you want to copy will be the two with names made up of numbers -- your D2s serial number and the serial number of your ARC mic.

--Bob


----------



## myc52002

Having trouble uplaoding my ARC settings. I have a D2V on 3.09 using a keyspan adapter. Problem is this:


I changed some equipment so I reran measurements and calculations. All that went fine. When I try to upload the calculations, at some random point from about 2 minute to almost the end of uploading paramters (gains upload fine every time) the D2V will shut off and I get a


"Unable to upload/verify coefficients" error.


I have attempted several times and the error continues randomly. I had reset the D2V to factory defaults, I even reloaded the 3.09 update (that worked fine) but no solution to this very aggravating problem.


Ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23060802
> 
> 
> Having trouble uplaoding my ARC settings. I have a D2V on 3.09 using a keyspan adapter. Problem is this:
> 
> 
> I changed some equipment so I reran measurements and calculations. All that went fine. When I try to upload the calculations, at some random point from about 2 minute to almost the end of uploading paramters (gains upload fine every time) the D2V will shut off and I get a
> 
> 
> "Unable to upload/verify coefficients" error.
> 
> 
> I have attempted several times and the error continues randomly. I had reset the D2V to factory defaults, I even reloaded the 3.09 update (that worked fine) but no solution to this very aggravating problem.
> 
> 
> Ideas?



The most common reason for this is that the cable is loose. Screw down the RS-232 cable to the Keyspan adapter and to the back of the D2v, and also double check that the USB cable is fully inserted at both ends -- particularly where it goes into the Keyspan.


Next, if you normally use the RS-232 input on the D2v for remote control, then you may have changed away from the default RS-232 settings in the D2v. In particular, you may have turned on the setting which causes command input to be echoed back. Check the picture in the Manual for the default settings in Setup for RS-232. That's not likely to be the problem as it should have shown up early in the Upload, but check anyway.


Next, we've had some reports where anti-virus and firewall protection in Windows interferes with ARC. Typically that's more likely to happen during Measurement than Upload, but it's worth a check. Also make sure your Windows computer is not going to Sleep during the Upload.


It may also be worthwhile to re-install ARC on your Windows computer. Download a fresh copy of ARC V3.0.2 from the Anthem web site and Unzip it. In Windows Control Panel, Uninstall your current ARC. Reboot the computer. Run Setup.exe in the downloaded version to install it. Reboot the computer again after the install and retry the Upload.


(I'm assuming you already had ARC V3.0.2 installed. If you have an older version, you should probably also copy over your ARC license and ARC mic calibration files from your original ARC install CD before doing the install step above. These are the two files with names made of numbers (your D2v serial number and your ARC mic serial number). Copy them to where the Setup.exe program (the installer) is found in the downloaded version. The Installer will then put them where they need to be when you run it.)

--Bob


----------



## myc52002

Thanks Bob. I will run through the list and get back shortly.


----------



## myc52002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23060877
> 
> 
> The most common reason for this is that the cable is loose. Screw down the RS-232 cable to the Keyspan adapter and to the back of the D2v, and also double check that the USB cable is fully inserted at both ends -- particularly where it goes into the Keyspan.



Checked all this. All was OK. Replaced USB cable as well to be sure


[/quote]Next, if you normally use the RS-232 input on the D2v for remote control, then you may have changed away from the default RS-232 settings in the D2v. In particular, you may have turned on the setting which causes command input to be echoed back. Check the picture in the Manual for the default settings in Setup for RS-232. That's not likely to be the problem as it should have shown up early in the Upload, but check anyway.[/quote]


Checked as well but no changes to menu. I do not use it for remote control


[/quote]Next, we've had some reports where anti-virus and firewall protection in Windows interferes with ARC. Typically that's more likely to happen during Measurement than Upload, but it's worth a check. Also make sure your Windows computer is not going to Sleep during the Upload.[/quote]


Disabled everything


[/quote]It may also be worthwhile to re-install ARC on your Windows computer. Download a fresh copy of ARC V3.0.2 from the Anthem web site and Unzip it. In Windows Control Panel, Uninstall your current ARC. Reboot the computer. Run Setup.exe in the downloaded version to install it. Reboot the computer again after the install and retry the Upload.[/quote]


Done


[/quote](I'm assuming you already had ARC V3.0.2 installed. If you have an older version, you should probably also copy over your ARC license and ARC mic calibration files from your original ARC install CD before doing the install step above. These are the two files with names made of numbers (your D2v serial number and your ARC mic serial number). Copy them to where the Setup.exe program (the installer) is found in the downloaded version. The Installer will then put them where they need to be when you run it.)

--Bob[/quote]


Assumed correctly.


Problem still persists


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Well the next step would be to try the Upload using a different Windows computer. It is possible, but not likely that the Keyspan is broken. Have you checked whether you have the latest driver for it (check that on the Tripplight site since they own the Keyspan brand now)? This is not too likely since the firmware update worked OK.


By the way, I'm assuming you are using the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter. If you have a different adapter, that may be the problem.


At this point you may need to get in touch with Anthem Tech Support to see if they have any other suggestions which wouldn't involve sending the D2v in for service. The worst case here is that something has failed in the special memory used to hold the Uploaded ARC data.


You can email them your ARC results file (the actual file, not just the captured charts), and they can verify the file itself is not screwed up.

--Bob


----------



## nrwatson

I might not know what I am taking about but I think the port needs to be a low number to work

Neale



Sent from my iPad


----------



## myc52002

Before I read this I did drag another computer upstairs to try and it solved the issue. It does not make any sense but something must be buggy about the laptop that is causing the problem. It has worked fine many times before and does all the other stuff just fine but won't upload that particular correction file. Great. Now I have to haul the desktop up there to do any work on it. Well at least it is working! Thanks a bunch Bob. Always appreciated!


Neale - you are right and I tried several assignments below 6 but to no avail. The laptop is not going to work. Probably some windows update that threw a kink in it.


----------



## nrwatson

what a pain sorry to hear that


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23063114
> 
> 
> Before I read this I did drag another computer upstairs to try and it solved the issue. It does not make any sense but something must be buggy about the laptop that is causing the problem. It has worked fine many times before and does all the other stuff just fine but won't upload that particular correction file. Great. Now I have to haul the desktop up there to do any work on it. Well at least it is working! Thanks a bunch Bob. Always appreciated!
> 
> 
> Neale - you are right and I tried several assignments below 6 but to no avail. The laptop is not going to work. Probably some windows update that threw a kink in it.



Maybe someday Anthem will move ahead and utilize a more modern update format like USB as all the other manufacturers are doing now.

It is becoming more apparent every day that Anthem with all their technology and engineering resources has not moved forward.


No USB updating.

No network or internet connection capability

No wireless system, either IP or Bluetooth etc for remote control on iPad or Android devices

No video pass through to bypass internal video processing

No ability for 4K



And I am sure there are others


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*D2v / AVM 50v Test Firmware V3.09h Now Available on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page*


Anthem has placed "test" firmware V3.09h on their password protected download page for the D2v and AVM 50v. Change notes for changes since the last "official" release (V3.09) now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v3.09h release candidate:
> 
> 
> 1. When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source was playing, a surround upmix mode couldn't be selected - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. False "No Input Signal" status info when receiving 2-channel input - fixed.
> 
> 
> 3. "Last Used" mode preset reverted to "None" under certain conditions - fixed.
> 
> 
> 4. Previous DTS changes now certified.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Output channel count was displayed incorrectly when 6-ch analog input was selected - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. Further DTS-required changes.
> 
> 
> Known issue: When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source is selected, a surround upmix mode can't be selected.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed bug where AVM 50v sometimes powered on with low volume.
> 
> 
> 2. DTS-required changes for pending certification. Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements.




Note that V3.09h is marked as a "release candidate". This means it is expected to become "official" (probably as V3.10) if no problems show up in this last stage of testing.


Nevertheless, "test" firmware is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises, perhaps requiring you to roll back to prior firmware. As always, don't install "test" firmware unless you are OK with that.

*For Newbies*: Anthem releases "test" firmware on a password protected page prior to making public release of "official" firmware on their normal download pages. Access to the password protected page is no big secret, but Anthem has asked us not to publish the details here. If you feel you could help checking out "test" firmware, or if you have a problem that you think the "test" firmware might fix, just get in touch with Anthem Tech Support. They are trying to keep a loose sort of track of who is using this stuff, and they also want to make sure you understand what I just said above -- that "test" firmware may come with some gotchas. If you are OK with that, odds are you'll get an email back with the access info.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23064039
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> No USB updating.
> 
> No network or internet connection capability
> 
> No wireless system, either IP or Bluetooth etc for remote control on iPad or Android devices
> *No video pass through to bypass internal video processing*
> 
> No ability for 4K
> 
> 
> 
> And I am sure there are others



With the 3D upgrade, the D2v and AVM 50v now do offer "Through" mode for video from HDMI 1-4 input to the Main HDMI output. Through mode is required for 3D viewing but may also be used for 2D viewing.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

I will always keep an older business class laptop around with a real RS-232 serial port (eg: used Dell Latitude D-series, dime a dozen now) because of equipment like this. Anthem isn't the only one, there are other high end AV products and scientific equipment that need it.


----------



## Texas steve


I JUST TODAY updated with "F" version (did not have time till now) - and now "H"  Geezzzzz.  Will do it again!


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23064039
> 
> 
> Maybe someday Anthem will move ahead and utilize a more modern update format like USB as all the other manufacturers are doing now.
> 
> It is becoming more apparent every day that Anthem with all their technology and engineering resources has not moved forward.



Would you be willing to buy a whole new prepro to have these things? I'm only asking to gauge their importance among D2v / AVM 50v owners.


Things to otherwise keep in mind:


- update via USB stick would be nice but a USB interface can't just be plopped into the motherboard, and ARC requires RS-232 regardless. ARC wouldn't work over USB unless no one installs a prepro further than 24 feet from any listening chair, and that's with cables stretched through the air. USB cables just don't work at longer than 12 feet (mentioned countless times here).


- if using a Keyspan adapter seems difficult, be careful what you wish for. IP means that you won't be able to run ARC unless you can connect to a network, or alternatively using a static IP address which for the average person may as well not exist due to complexity in setting it up. Combining the two factors, what we're left with is having to use a hub instead of a USB adapter. Is it really easier? The last option would be to lose the PC as part of ARC calculations. Then it wouldn't be ARC. I've discussed that in several earlier posts.


- there are third-party apps - iRule comes to mind. The nice thing is that you can customize screens to control multiple devices instead of having to open and close one app to change channel then another to change volume.


- if you have the 3D upgrade, you have video processor bypass (also mentioned this in earlier posts)


- if anyone can tell me when 4K sources will be common I can tell you when we might support it but until then I don't see anything wrong with letting the AVM/D take any other source to 1080p if it already isn't that then having the 4K projector or TV (show of hands please, who has one right now?) turn 1080p into 4K. I'm sure I posted this some months ago.


AVM/D has the latest HDMI, 3D, audio decoders, and RC that continues to amaze. What is it _really_ missing? Things are the way they are because it's the only way to go from a D1 to a D2v with a hardware upgrade path each step along the way. Although D1 to D2 and D2 to D2v paths are discontinued, they stuck around for a while and now we have D2v to D2v 3D upgrades. Same with AVM counterparts. ARC for D1 is still available too. Who else has such a track record? Who even comes close to having all things on everyone's wish list?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40140#post_23048868
> 
> 
> A few things to try to eliminate the simple stuff.
> 
> 
> First, make sure you don't have a "temporary" level setting which is confusing things. These are the settings you make with the buttons on the remote. To reset all of them at once, go into Setup and:
> 
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 
> 2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video at this point, continue using the Front Panel display.
> 
> 3) Reload Saved User Settings.
> 
> 
> The "temporary" settings are not saved, so this resets all of them.



That almost always fixes it, if not always.


There is Balance and then there is Fronts Balance. Same with treble and bass. It's easy to miss this, but knowing the three steps above means there's no need to worry about it.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dbox1080p*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23029491
> 
> 
> I have lost the disk for the avm40 that contains the mic serial number.



Just send the mic serial number to tech support and they can e-mail the cal file.


If the mic doesn't have a serial number sticker we can still provide the cal file if the serial number of the AVM/D that the mic came with is known.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40110#post_23030321
> 
> 
> Nick responded that some owners wanted a manual that is shorter and easier to understand. Frankly, I doubt that, and believe that most of us would rather have a manual that is more comprehensive rather than less so.



One of the bigger subjects was multiple subs. As discussed, this is more a bass management topic than room eq and manual section 3.5, the bass management section (not the ARC section), provides some instructions on how to make adjustments. After that it turns into a speaker and acoustics topic beyond the scope of a prepro operating manual, and there are plenty of sources for that type of info. For one, Floyd Toole wrote a 550-page book.


In practice with room eq for our purposes it's position, measure, repeat - don't forget Quick Measure. It's not just about the boundaries for which much has been written but what's on the other side - an adjacent room isn't necessarily going to have the same effect as a foundation. Doorways are another factor.


I appreciate all feedback but in this case still believe that all info necessary to operate the AVM/D is in the manual, case by case info aside (that's what tech support is for). Some things may only occupy two sentences, but the info is still there and the manual was written in a way that requires reading and setting up in the order presented - this is mentioned in it. If the manual was any longer people would be asking for a quick start guide, and when there's a quick start guide many if not most people ignore the rest of the manual. I am sure of this because it's exactly what happened in the AVM 2 and AVM 20 days, and anyone who knew about us then and did his/her own setup is surely a died-in-the-wool HT-phile.


Note: The only person in this company who reads AVS is myself, and I do so unofficially and irregularly except when new beta software is floating around. If there is anything that you would like for someone at the company to know, including myself, please contact tech support through the general phone line or inbox and not any one person's address or extension, especially during flu or vacation seasons. Thank you.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23064687
> 
> 
> Would you be willing to buy a whole new prepro to have these things? I'm only asking to gauge their importance among D2v / AVM 50v owners.
> 
> 
> Things to otherwise keep in mind:
> 
> 
> - update via USB stick would be nice but a USB interface can't just be plopped into the motherboard, and ARC requires RS-232 regardless. ARC wouldn't work over USB unless no one installs a prepro further than 24 feet from any listening chair, and that's with cables stretched through the air. USB cables just don't work at longer than 12 feet (mentioned countless times here).
> 
> 
> - if using a Keyspan adapter seems difficult, be careful what you wish for. IP means that you won't be able to run ARC unless you can connect to a network, or alternatively using a static IP address which for the average person may as well not exist due to complexity in setting it up. Combining the two factors, what we're left with is having to use a hub instead of a USB adapter. Is it really easier? The last option would be to lose the PC as part of ARC calculations. Then it wouldn't be ARC. I've discussed that in several earlier posts.
> 
> 
> - there are third-party apps - iRule comes to mind. The nice thing is that you can customize screens to control multiple devices instead of having to open and close one app to change channel then another to change volume.
> 
> 
> - if you have the 3D upgrade, you have video processor bypass (also mentioned this in earlier posts)
> 
> 
> - if anyone can tell me when 4K sources will be common I can tell you when we might support it but until then I don't see anything wrong with letting the AVM/D take any other source to 1080p if it already isn't that then having the 4K projector or TV (show of hands please, who has one right now?) turn 1080p into 4K. I'm sure I posted this some months ago.
> 
> 
> AVM/D has the latest HDMI, 3D, audio decoders, and RC that continues to amaze. What is it _really_ missing? Things are the way they are because it's the only way to go from a D1 to a D2v with a hardware upgrade path each step along the way. Although D1 to D2 and D2 to D2v paths are discontinued, they stuck around for a while and now we have D2v to D2v 3D upgrades. Same with AVM counterparts. ARC for D1 is still available too. Who else has such a track record? Who even comes close to having all things on everyone's wish list?



I agree with Stew the platform is really starting to show its age. One only has to look at the Oppo 103 and 105 to see what the competition is doing. Granted I'm coming from the perspective of an original D2 owner and not D2v . The V and 3D updates to me were just tacked on to the existing workhorse platform and weren't very compelling for me. What is needed is a new platform if the D2 series is to remain relevant to new prospective owners. To address some of the points made.
USB The point is a new motherboard is needed not having USB tacked on. Again look at Oppo make that USB an Asynch input for the DACs not just a modern serial port.
IP While ARC over IP would be kind of neat and personally not that much more difficult than serial IMHO but the real potential of IP is control (see next) and DLNA capability.
iRule I'm an iRule user and I would love to have an IP connection for control rather then serial which requires an additional box to go from IP to serial.
3D Again very "tacked on" both my Lumagen and Darbee processors both process 3D. Why have the processor at all if you are going to bypass it?
4K We are discussing a future device no? I think it would be foolish to ignore 4K in a future processor.


I guess what I'm saying is I would have expected Anthem to have a new motherboard (platform) well into the design process by now instead of trying to tack features on to the old warhorse.


And of course I'd be remiss if I didn't put my request in for 11.3 channels but I'd be content with 7.2


----------



## Emosewa09

A question for Bob and the D2v experts:


Bob, in of the posts that you recommend at the start of this thread, you discuss in great detail the settings that you utilized with a Velodyne subwoofer, along with the D2 or D2v. You definitely found great value in utilizing the Velodyne EQ along with Anthem. However, in another post your recommend disabling the Velodyne EQ and utilizing only ARC. Which do you now recommend?


I also have noticed signficant inconsistency in how Anthem/Pardigm deal with separare sub EQs made by Anthem/Paradigm versus made by someone else. In the D2v manual Anthem recommends using PBK with multiple Paradigm subs first, before ARC. But Anthem then turns around, and discourages the use of any competing sub EQ and says they should be disabled when using ARC. So Anthem recommends using their own EQ along with ARC, if you have two Paradigm subs, but discourages the same practice with other subs and EQs.


In my case, I have two Martin Logan Descent subs, and each is connected to a separate Velodyne outboard SMS EQ unit. I was planning on running the Velodyne SMS first** and doing the best I can to EQ the two subs, and then running ARC after that. The SMS units will set a crossover, and I presume that ARC would then pick the crossovers for the subs and other speakers that best mesh with what the SMS units have already chosen.


Does anyone have any experience with two subs and using outboard EQs first, prior to running ARC?


** I also will finally get around to moving the subs to different locations in my home theater room to find the best location. I was going to use the Automatic (quick) measure for that purpose to check on the subs first, and determine the best room locaton. Veolodyne can also assist with that.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23065556
> 
> 
> A question for Bob and the D2v experts:
> 
> 
> Bob, in of the posts that you recommend at the start of this thread, you discuss in great detail the settings that you utilized with a Velodyne subwoofer, along with the D2 or D2v. You definitely found great value in utilizing the Velodyne EQ along with Anthem. However, in another post your recommend disabling the Velodyne EQ and utilizing only ARC. Which do you now recommend?
> 
> 
> I also have noticed signficant inconsistency in how Anthem/Pardigm deal with separare sub EQs made by Anthem/Paradigm versus made by someone else. In the D2v manual Anthem recommends using PBK with multiple Paradigm subs first, before ARC. But Anthem then turns around, and discourages the use of any competing sub EQ and says they should be disabled when using ARC. So Anthem recommends using their own EQ along with ARC, if you have two Paradigm subs, but discourages the same practice with other subs and EQs.
> 
> 
> In my case, I have two Martin Logan Descent subs, and each is connected to a separate Velodyne outboard SMS EQ unit. I was planning on running the Velodyne SMS first** and doing the best I can to EQ the two subs, and then running ARC after that. The SMS units will set a crossover, and I presume that ARC would then pick the crossovers for the subs and other speakers that best mesh with what the SMS units have already chosen.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with two subs and using outboard EQs first, prior to running ARC?
> 
> 
> ** I also will finally get around to moving the subs to different locations in my home theater room to find the best location. I was going to use the Automatic (quick) measure for that purpose to check on the subs first, and determine the best room locaton. Veolodyne can also assist with that.



The history of this thread is so long, that some info is dated. The posts you found by me discussing Velodyne Sub EQ setup (advocating manual tweaking instead of using their automated setup), PREDATE the first release of ARC.


AFTER ARC came out, I did some careful comparison -- even checking what ARC produced using the sweep tones and calibrated mic of the Velodyne -- and discovered that ARC came up with a BETTER solution than the best manually tweaked solution I'd been able to achieve. The real value is seen when you move the mic around in the seating area. It's easy for any system to achieve good results at any single mic location, but when you want the best "compromise" solution across the seating area, that's tough. And with the EQ disabled in the Velodyne so that ARC was doing *ALL* the work, ARC just made it happen.


Anyway, my basic attitude is that if ARC produces a good looking solution without any assist from other Sub EQ systems, then that's the way to do it. I.e., a quality result with less processing. If you CAN'T get a good solution for bass with ARC alone, then that's the time to see if the other Sub EQ system can help. The trick is you have to be sure to do your ARC setup AFTER doing whatever you want to do with the other Sub EQ system. ARC has to be able hear the RESULT produced by any other Sub EQ system so that ARC can properly match the Sub to the Main speakers. So the ARC setup has to be done last.


Paradigm PBK is simply the Subwoofer-only subset of ARC. As such it's not surprising Anthem/Paradigm like PBK -- they are intimately familiar with its capabilities. In any event, the typical recommendation is that there's usually not much point in running even PBK as well if you have only 1 sub. ARC alone will usually do just as well. But if you have more than one sub, running PBK in each (and then ARC) may prove helpful.


As far as any other Sub EQ system, obviously you need to have faith that it won't screw things up (particularly compared to what ARC could do all on its own). But if you have that faith, then the same thing applies. I.e., run your additional Sub EQ *FIRST* if you believe ARC needs additional help.


Understand that no EQ system which only works on Sub output can replace ARC. The most significant thing ARC does is properly blend the transition between the Main speakers and the Sub -- which it can do because it acts on the Mains as well.


In my Velodyne sub right now, I have it's internal EQ disabled. I also have its Crossover filter disabled. ARC does all the work.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've installed "test" firmware V3.09h on my D2v/3D and re-Uploaded my existing ARC solution. No problems. No surprises.


Although I've not yet done extensive testing, the new firmware passes all of my initial sanity checks. I.e., it seems safe to use.

--Bob


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23064687
> 
> 
> Would you be willing to buy a whole new prepro to have these things?
> 
> 
> Nick, When will the D3 be coming out?????


----------



## Texas steve


Ditto here, no problems


----------



## Texas steve


Regarding the 3D upgrade to the D2V.    a couple of questions as I will be installing my board (when I hear back from Anthem on price/shipping).

1. when this is installed does it still do video processing on HDMI out for 2D material? 

2. does it automatically sense 3D input and go into bypass mode  - then when 2d comes back it goes into processing (non bypass)?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23065186
> 
> 
> I guess what I'm saying is I would have expected Anthem to have a new motherboard (platform) well into the design process by now instead of trying to tack features on to the old warhorse.



You do realize that this means the end of the hardware upgrade path, and spending ten thousand on a new unit instead of five or fifteen hundred plus a source component. This is why I asked who here would be willing to buy a whole new prepro to obtain USB, IP, 4K etc. People often always ask for more things than they're willing to pay for after cost is determined. Fact is, the sales dept was all for adding to the existing platform as you see it instead of scrapping it. Ironic huh? At least it kept planned obsolesence conspiracy theories at bay.


There are exceptions and this is one I've mentioned many times - every time I look at the possibility of building in a media player I can't help but think it's a futile excuse to make the product look more modern than it is. It's hard to imagine how a built-in player will ever beat an outboard one in features, upgrades, and even cost. There is no one module that will make everyone happy but as for outboard boxes, there are so many choices ranging in price from tens to thousands. Isn't this better than a card cage? You can plug in anything you want to get the job done the way you'd like, and the D2v doesn't care who the manufacturer is unless its HDMI is non-compliant (D2v IS certified).


Again all feedback is welcome but someone has to be devil's advocate because things aren't always that simple...


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Emosewa09*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23065556
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with two subs and using outboard EQs first, prior to running ARC?



Yes, and for that matter four subs as well, and that's in various installations be they homes, dealer showrooms, or trade shows.


I can see that you're looking for one definitive answer to all questions and scenarios, so I'll give it another try:


Rooms vary, equipment performance varies, sub eq systems vary, and layouts vary therefore you have to try different things in your very own setup to determine what works best in it with the equipment at hand. In the case of using Paradigm subs I'd say that PBK is unnecessary when running one sub since ARC will do the same thing, and with multiple Paradigm subs I'd run PBK on each then ARC on the lot. The manual always said try ARC *first* and *then* add to it* if the desired result hasn't happened, though the usual suspect with undesirable results is positioning that could be better. EQ was never meant to be a miracle cure, it's icing on the cake and all the things that went on before eq became part of the equation still apply.


*eta: always re-run ARC after making any change in the sub


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23066614
> 
> 
> Nick, When will the D3 be coming out?????



No idea.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23066662
> 
> 
> Regarding the 3D upgrade to the D2V.    a couple of questions as I will be installing my board (when I hear back from Anthem on price/shipping).
> 
> 1. when this is installed does it still do video processing on HDMI out for 2D material?
> 
> 2. does it automatically sense 3D input and go into bypass mode  - then when 2d comes back it goes into processing (non bypass)?



1. yes, if so assigned

2. no - you would have to assign two source setups to the same source, one with video configuration: 1, for example, and the other on video configuration: Through. If you do this using the DVD, TV, or SAT source setup you could for example have DVD1 processed and DVD2 unprocessed, all else being equal, so all you'd have to do during regular use is press the DVD button to toggle between the two modes.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23064687
> 
> 
> Would you be willing to buy a whole new prepro to have these things? I'm only asking to gauge their importance among D2v / AVM 50v owners.
> 
> 
> Things to otherwise keep in mind:
> 
> 
> - update via USB stick would be nice but a USB interface can't just be plopped into the motherboard, and ARC requires RS-232 regardless. ARC wouldn't work over USB unless no one installs a prepro further than 24 feet from any listening chair, and that's with cables stretched through the air. USB cables just don't work at longer than 12 feet (mentioned countless times here).
> 
> 
> - if using a Keyspan adapter seems difficult, be careful what you wish for. IP means that you won't be able to run ARC unless you can connect to a network, or alternatively using a static IP address which for the average person may as well not exist due to complexity in setting it up. Combining the two factors, what we're left with is having to use a hub instead of a USB adapter. Is it really easier? The last option would be to lose the PC as part of ARC calculations. Then it wouldn't be ARC. I've discussed that in several earlier posts.
> 
> 
> - there are third-party apps - iRule comes to mind. The nice thing is that you can customize screens to control multiple devices instead of having to open and close one app to change channel then another to change volume.
> 
> 
> - if you have the 3D upgrade, you have video processor bypass (also mentioned this in earlier posts)
> 
> 
> - if anyone can tell me when 4K sources will be common I can tell you when we might support it but until then I don't see anything wrong with letting the AVM/D take any other source to 1080p if it already isn't that then having the 4K projector or TV (show of hands please, who has one right now?) turn 1080p into 4K. I'm sure I posted this some months ago.
> 
> 
> AVM/D has the latest HDMI, 3D, audio decoders, and RC that continues to amaze. What is it _really_ missing? Things are the way they are because it's the only way to go from a D1 to a D2v with a hardware upgrade path each step along the way. Although D1 to D2 and D2 to D2v paths are discontinued, they stuck around for a while and now we have D2v to D2v 3D upgrades. Same with AVM counterparts. ARC for D1 is still available too. Who else has such a track record? Who even comes close to having all things on everyone's wish list?



All good points. And I agree with almost all of them.

I forgot about ARC needing RS232 to be able to use the computers computing power. And the limit to the length of the USB cable.

And yes I agree upgrading is preferable to buying a new unit every time there is something new to add. Though I did buy a D2v to replace my D2 so I would have the latest boards etc.


I have a 4K display and a 4K video player (Sony loans them to new purchasers currently ) and I am unable to utilize all the features of the player with my D2v.

Currently when a user connects the HDMI from the 4k player. The D2v allows the video to pass to the display as 1080p.

Most important for some reason no audio passes over the HDMI cable.

If it did a user could select None as the video in Source setup and use the HDMI audio.

The D2v should allow the 4k signal to bypass ( pass through) the D2v or let the HDMI audio pass through that is now not accessible on HDMI.

Choosing the optical audio is not an option as it is not surround and not HD audio.

I know I might be the first but this is what drives your industry forward and creates the market for your company to fill with products

I am sure more will follow once they see the incredible video picture available in 4K


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40100_100#post_23067952
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 4K display and a 4K video player (Sony loans them to new purchasers currently ) and I am unable to utilize all the features of the player with my D2v.
> 
> I currently cannot connect the HDMI from the 4k player.



STEW - NO CLUE why you need Anthem to handle 4K.


Sony Players have DUAL HDMI - Duh


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200#post_23067984
> 
> 
> STEW - NO CLUE why you need Anthem to handle 4K.
> 
> 
> Sony Players have DUAL HDMI - Duh



Here is the CLUE

One reason. This is not a 4K capable Sony Blu Ray player but a Sony developed 4K file player.

Basically a computer with a 4K video card which plays 4k video files.

I can bypass the D2v and feed the display directly but then I lose the HDMI audio which is DTS and Dolby HD.

So I need to be able to have the D2v pass through the 4K video and extract the audio.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200_100#post_23068736
> 
> 
> Here is the CLUE
> 
> One reason. This is not a 4K capable Sony Blu Ray player but a Sony developed 4K file player.
> 
> Basically a computer with a 4K video card which plays 4k video files.
> 
> I can bypass the D2v and feed the display directly but then I lose the HDMI audio which is DTS and Dolby HD.
> 
> So I need to be able to have the D2v pass through the 4K video and extract the audio.



Thanks for that UPDATE - Stew.


Any HTPC is a BAG of Worms - in my book. Too Much aggravation

to deal with.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23066860
> 
> 
> You do realize that this means the end of the hardware upgrade path, and spending ten thousand on a new unit instead of five or fifteen hundred plus a source component. This is why I asked who here would be willing to buy a whole new prepro to obtain USB, IP, 4K etc. People often always ask for more things than they're willing to pay for after cost is determined. Fact is, the sales dept was all for adding to the existing platform as you see it instead of scrapping it. Ironic huh? At least it kept planned obsolesence conspiracy theories at bay.
> 
> 
> There are exceptions and this is one I've mentioned many times - every time I look at the possibility of building in a media player I can't help but think it's a futile excuse to make the product look more modern than it is. It's hard to imagine how a built-in player will ever beat an outboard one in features, upgrades, and even cost. There is no one module that will make everyone happy but as for outboard boxes, there are so many choices ranging in price from tens to thousands. Isn't this better than a card cage? You can plug in anything you want to get the job done the way you'd like, and the D2v doesn't care who the manufacturer is unless its HDMI is non-compliant (D2v IS certified).
> 
> 
> Again all feedback is welcome but someone has to be devil's advocate because things aren't always that simple...



Hey I thought I was playing Devil's Advocate not you.







Just a couple of comments and as always thanks for listening.


I realize I didn't answer the question but yes I'm interested in a new Pre/Pro. I guess that is largely due to the fact I'm still at the D2 level and didn't upgrade. I never felt the upgrades were that compelling especially the cost of going from the D2 to the V, it just didn't bring enough to the game to justify the cost. Others obviously thought otherwise. I saw the "V" as more of a new unit then an upgrade, if I'm not mistaken many sold their D2s and bought entirely new D2vs. The "3D" upgrade is kind of a misnomer as it is really just a switch that I can and have added as a separate box for under $100.


People can debate the merits of building in a media player but if you are designing from the ground up I don't see why you wouldn't have at least a crude audio DMR built-in. It may be a tick sheet item but I would think it is almost a necessity in today's digital world. I don't see this being a card cage item but part of the basic system design of the processor. I don't envision a DMR so much as hardware but rather software (firmware). I'd much rather have a basic DMR then a RF receiver in my next Pre/Pro.


I don't see a way to avoid the IP control in a future model, it is already in my players and projector and it has even crept in to a lot of mid-line receivers. As you mentioned earlier IP remotes like iRule and Roomie are pretty compelling. Thanks for listening and don't forget to add some additional discrete outputs for multiple subs and those guys who insist on going to more then seven channels.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200#post_23068777
> 
> 
> Thanks for that UPDATE - Stew.
> 
> 
> Any HTPC is a BAG of Worms - in my book. Too Much aggravation
> 
> to deal with.


Lot of people want to use their Pre/Pros as switchers with one line going to the display.


And what is an HTPC these days? Aren't all players an HTPC to some degree? Is a BD player not an HTPC just because it uses specialized chips and Linux/Java instead of general purpose Intel chips with Windows? The distinction gets even blurrier when you start talking about some of the media streamers out there. Just sayin.


----------



## Emosewa09




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23065623
> 
> 
> The history of this thread is so long, that some info is dated. The posts you found by me discussing Velodyne Sub EQ setup (advocating manual tweaking instead of using their automated setup), PREDATE the first release of ARC. . .Understand that no EQ system which only works on Sub output can replace ARC. The most significant thing ARC does is properly blend the transition between the Main speakers and the Sub -- which it can do because it acts on the Mains as well.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23064687
> 
> 
> Would you be willing to buy a whole new prepro to have these things? AVM/D has the latest HDMI, 3D, audio decoders, and RC that continues to amaze. What is it _really_ missing? Things are the way they are because it's the only way to go from a D1 to a D2v with a hardware upgrade path each step along the way. Although D1 to D2 and D2 to D2v paths are discontinued, they stuck around for a while and now we have D2v to D2v 3D upgrades. Same with AVM counterparts. ARC for D1 is still available too. Who else has such a track record? Who even comes close to having all things on everyone's wish list?



Many, many thanks to Bob and Nick at Anthem for responding to my questions and offering excellent guidance, as always. Bob, at least you know that I read all of your recommended posts, since I copied and pasted them into a single 120 page Word document!


Nick, I for one am happy with the D2v. As a new owner, I am not looking for immediate obsolescence of that unit. I commend Anthem for keeping the current platform up to date with hardware upgrades each step of the way. As a new owner, I hope that Anthem will continue to do that for a few more years at least.










If you want to look at a manufacturer that previously had an equally good record of upgrades, and then abandoned their product and customers, just look at Lexicon. Lexicon owners have trashed that company in this forum and other forums. Anthem, by contrast, has a superb record of keeping the unit up to date.


Nick, on that point you are spot-on -- when you ask "Who else has such a track record? Who even comes close to having all things on everyone's wish list?" I know of only one -- Anthem. That is why I bought the D2v.


I am probably in a minority, but I still utilize analog recording devices in the form of DVD-R Recorders -- which is the ONLY way to record since digital recorders utilizing an HDMI input are not available in the US market -- and won't be for many years. Anthem is one of the few manufacturers that has KEPT full analog functionality as well as adopting the latest and greatest of digital. Since we are in a transitional period, I greatly appreciate those functions and flexibility.


As a package, you have the fact that Anthem has maintained both analog video/audio support, including for recording, coupled with the latest digital features. You have Nick's participation in this forum, and the great support offered by Bob and others.


In my view I purchased the correct product, and hope that the D2v platform continues to be supported for at least several more years.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200#post_23068784
> 
> 
> Hey I thought I was playing Devil's Advocate not you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a couple of comments and as always thanks for listening.
> 
> 
> I realize I didn't answer the question but yes I'm interested in a new Pre/Pro. I guess that is largely due to the fact I'm still at the D2 level and didn't upgrade. I never felt the upgrades were that compelling especially the cost of going from the D2 to the V, it just didn't bring enough to the game to justify the cost. Others obviously thought otherwise. I saw the "V" as more of a new unit then an upgrade, if I'm not mistaken many sold their D2s and bought entirely new D2vs. The "3D" upgrade is kind of a misnomer as it is really just a switch that I can and have added as a separate box for under $100.
> 
> 
> People can debate the merits of building in a media player but if you are designing from the ground up I don't see why you wouldn't have at least a crude audio DMR built-in. It may be a tick sheet item but I would think it is almost a necessity in today's digital world. I don't see this being a card cage item but part of the basic system design of the processor. I don't envision a DMR so much as hardware but rather software (firmware). I'd much rather have a basic DMR then a RF receiver in my next Pre/Pro.
> 
> 
> I don't see a way to avoid the IP control in a future model, it is already in my players and projector and it has even crept in to a lot of mid-line receivers. As you mentioned earlier IP remotes like iRule and Roomie are pretty compelling. Thanks for listening and don't forget to add some additional discrete outputs for multiple subs and those guys who insist on going to more then seven channels.



From what I gather you're seeking something along the lines of an 11.4-channel processor with a media player, IP control, 4K support, and availablity right about now. Implicitly, since you're a D2 owner, it would also be a hi-end piece with room correction a cut above the rest, and you're prepared to spend a five-figure amount. It would make for a very nice package and I can promise one thing - this won't be available from Anthem any time soon. Can't help but wonder, if the D2 has remained useful for your purposes with its successor (D2v) in its fifth year why look to upgrade now? The only major thing that has changed about the D2v during its life is the 3D/bypass addition. "3D upgrade" is called that because it brings HDMI 1.4a, which has provision for detecting various 3D formats so each part of the system can put itself in the approriate state to play each one. The fact that video processing can now be bypassed in the D2v regardless of source format is merely a byproduct. Is adding a $100 switch to a prepro that doesn't have this that much different from adding an outboard media player that doesn't have that? Don't get me wrong, just trying to help in getting the most of what's at hand even if it means trying to convince one that the answer may be in adding a media player via HDMI.


More channels have always been interesting but a tough choice for us because most people have a hard enough time with 7.1, even in the hi-end, and sources are still 7.1-channel at best. Multiple subs? Bring 'em on! Just add y-splitters (have no fear - line level audio isn't affected by splitting, unlike speaker or headphone loads, or impedance-matched coax). In rooms, bass is effectively mono and even if you were to set up a listening area outdoors and ten feet off the ground to eliminate boundaries and allow the possibility of stereo bass, hardly any recordings contain it.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23067952
> 
> 
> I have a 4K display and a 4K video player (Sony loans them to new purchasers currently ) and I am unable to utilize all the features of the player with my D2v.
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> I know I might be the first but this is what drives your industry forward and creates the market for your company to fill with products



There will always be early adoption and congrats on being able to watch UHD at home. Sorry that the D2v can't handle the format but looking to add support right at this moment is comparable to the time we spent a small fortune on a planned Firewire card to allow digital connection of DVD-A because two noteworthy player manufacturers were using it (and not via the same protocol), only to have HDMI come along and wipe that slate clean for those still into the exciting music format that requires firing up the TV or projector to select the first song. For that matter it's good that we didn't get into DVI even though some said we'd be missing out. 4K sources in their present state, especially the Sony server because it's a loaner with only so many movie choices, remind me of D-VHS - pure awesomeness at the time but in the end a stop-gap for more mainstream things that were bound to happen (I still remember Sony showing Blu-ray before it was called that at CES 2001, and hardly anyone noticing although the rep correctly told me it would hit the market in 2006).


In fewer words, there's precious little 4K content out there and for a company of our size the 80:20 rule is a good one to abide by. Sure, we'd like to be on the bleeding edge every time, who wouldn't, like when we brought in 1080p support well ahead of any 1080p source coming to market but at times there are still good reasons to not rush into every new thing.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200#post_23070066
> 
> 
> There will always be early adoption and congrats on being able to watch UHD at home. Sorry that the D2v can't handle the format but looking to add support right at this moment is comparable to the time we spent a small fortune on a planned Firewire card to allow digital connection of DVD-A because two noteworthy player manufacturers were using it (and not via the same protocol), only to have HDMI come along and wipe that slate clean for those still into the exciting music format that requires firing up the TV or projector to select the first song. For that matter it's good that we didn't get into DVI even though some said we'd be missing out. 4K sources in their present state, especially the Sony server because it's a loaner with only so many movie choices, remind me of D-VHS - pure awesomeness at the time but in the end a stop-gap for more mainstream things that were bound to happen (I still remember Sony showing Blu-ray before it was called that at CES 2001, and hardly anyone noticing although the rep correctly told me it would hit the market in 2006).
> 
> 
> In fewer words, there's precious little 4K content out there and for a company of our size the 80:20 rule is a good one to abide by. Sure, we'd like to be on the bleeding edge every time, who wouldn't, like when we brought in 1080p support well ahead of any 1080p source coming to market but at times there are still good reasons to not rush into every new thing.



Nick

I agree with you on all counts. Everything you just stated makes complete sense. You have no argument from me.

And yes I own and occasionally use my JVC HM Dt100 D-VHS machine. It was the first and only way to record HD for replay at a later date until

Hard disk drives and BluRay ripping became available.


Is there is a technical reason and maybe you know why the Anthem version of HDMI 1.4a which has that 4K spec does not pass through 4K.

I would be completely satisfied if the Anthem would complete the HDMI handshake and allow the HDMI audio.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23066860
> 
> 
> You do realize that this means the end of the hardware upgrade path, and spending ten thousand on a new unit instead of five or fifteen hundred plus a source component. This is why I asked who here would be willing to buy a whole new prepro to obtain USB, IP, 4K etc. People often always ask for more things than they're willing to pay for after cost is determined. Fact is, the sales dept was all for adding to the existing platform as you see it instead of scrapping it. Ironic huh? At least it kept planned obsolesence conspiracy theories at bay.
> 
> 
> There are exceptions and this is one I've mentioned many times - every time I look at the possibility of building in a media player I can't help but think it's a futile excuse to make the product look more modern than it is. It's hard to imagine how a built-in player will ever beat an outboard one in features, upgrades, and even cost. There is no one module that will make everyone happy but as for outboard boxes, there are so many choices ranging in price from tens to thousands. Isn't this better than a card cage? You can plug in anything you want to get the job done the way you'd like, and the D2v doesn't care who the manufacturer is unless its HDMI is non-compliant (D2v IS certified).
> 
> 
> Again all feedback is welcome but someone has to be devil's advocate because things aren't always that simple...




Very well said. A prepro should switch between inputs and provide sound, period. I've gone through a couple of upgrades to my steaming media players and I'm happy to not have some module that I had to pay for sitting idle in my 50v. In fact, I'm unhappy about having to pay for a video processor that I would bypass if I could. It's the reason I went with separates. I wanted to be able to get the best component I could for each function of my HT system.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200#post_23070239
> 
> 
> Is there is a technical reason and maybe you know why the Anthem version of HDMI 1.4a which has that 4K spec does not pass through 4K.
> 
> I would be completely satisfied if the Anthem would complete the HDMI handshake and allow the HDMI audio.



Everything in the data path has to support 4K starting with the HDMI chip model, and 4K chips simply weren't available when we started on 3D/bypass.


The same goes for test equipment, and the higher speed also means that the data path on the circuit board layout has to be shorter than ever. How would it be possible to know at the time? Not that we ever looked into it but there's a chance that the output jack is too far from the input jacks - just a guess considering that in some situations normal cables are giving way to things like http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=redmere


----------



## wse


Has any one compare the Anthem to the SSP-800 and if so what do you think?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200#post_23070349
> 
> 
> A prepro should switch between inputs and provide sound, period. ... In fact, I'm unhappy about having to pay for a video processor that I would bypass if I could. It's the reason I went with separates.



Part of this is status overlay so you can see things like which source is selected, what the volume is, and other selections and adjustments such as surround mode. This comes from one or another form of video processing, and since this is hi-end we might as well use the best we can. If you can't see the front panel while watching a movie the only other choice would be to have such info echoed onto a custom-programmed touchscreen (possible via RS-232). Either way, a lot of people who are accustomed to the overlay find it inconvenient to live without. I also use processing when there's no choice but to watch SD (the content always comes first and not everything is available in HD) especially when the edges need trimming or the frame needs to be resized, and now that I've seen the possibilities I'm spoiled and would find it hard to go back.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200_40#post_23070916
> 
> 
> 
> Part of this is status overlay so you can see things like which source is selected, what the volume is, and other selections and adjustments such as surround mode. This comes from one or another form of video processing, and since this is hi-end we might as well use the best we can. If you can't see the front panel while watching a movie the only other choice would be to have such info echoed onto a custom-programmed touchscreen (possible via RS-232). Either way, a lot of people who are accustomed to the overlay find it inconvenient to live without. I also use processing when there's no choice but to watch SD (the content always comes first and not everything is available in HD) especially when the edges need trimming or the frame needs to be resized, and now that I've seen the possibilities I'm spoiled and would find it hard to go back.


How have others on this site got around not upgrading to 3d pass though ($1,500 for my D2V) as it is simply to expensive.  I have DTV and Oppo going into D2V - HDMI 1 out to projector, HDMI2 out to TV.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wse*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200#post_23070778
> 
> 
> Has any one compare the Anthem to the SSP-800 and if so what do you think?


 http://www.soundstagexperience.com/index.php/equipment-menu/388-anthem-avm50v-3d-audio-video-processor


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23064039
> 
> 
> Maybe someday Anthem will move ahead and utilize a more modern update format like USB as all the other manufacturers are doing now.
> 
> It is becoming more apparent every day that Anthem with all their technology and engineering resources has not moved forward.
> 
> 
> No USB updating.
> 
> No network or internet connection capability
> 
> No wireless system, either IP or Bluetooth etc for remote control on iPad or Android devices
> 
> No video pass through to bypass internal video processing
> 
> No ability for 4K
> 
> 
> 
> And I am sure there are others



Sure is .... no windows 8 support. If the test tone is lower than 75 db when you run arc it should work alright as long as it is a true reflection of the sound your speakers are putting out. However, when it is set it to 75 db and the software does not recognize the true volume of the speakers that is a problem. Do not thing that can be argued with, the arc software on windows 8 does not reflect the true speaker volumes. I have to say without Bob and all the rest of the gr8 guys here the anthem support is the pits. Gr8 box with no support.


Hard to believe that the low volume bug with my 50v has been fixed for so long and still not available to us, you would think this would be released sooner as 3.09.1 at least. I have asked for access to the beta site and been ignored.


Regards


----------



## ehlarson

Regarding the future of the D2v.


I love the fact that it has had a long lifetime and is still being actively developed for. I bought mine four years ago and the base features still rock because they are continually maintained. That is saying something quite positive in this day and age of planned obsolescence and product churn (yes I am thinking of you Microsoft).


11.3 doesn't particularly interest me. I don't really envision any serious software support for it. Heck, there isn't much with 7.1.


I didn't buy the 3D upgrade - I'm not a 3D fan. If I was I'd do it, but it's not my cuppa.


A 4K passthrough upgrade in the future is something I think will be needed to keep the D2V relevant. It's a significant disadvantage not having the ability to switch sources with your prepro. I hope to have the option of purchasing this in the future.


ARC continues to be huge for me. Room correction processing to me is the core competency of the D2V. Anything you do in that area is greatly appreciated. If there are some advanced capabilities that could be added if there was an income stream from ARC upgrades I think you should consider doing it.


An IP interface would be cool but not worth 5 figures for me.


USB - nah. I have an Oppo for a media player. That satisfies all my USB needs. It would ease firmware updates, but let's be real. Once you get set up for it the RS-232 method is fine.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Shayne2, sometimes it's better to hold off a while instead of chasing issues involving someone else's new product. Maybe in this case the problem is Windows 8. ARC worked all along in this regard, every service pack since XP1, and all it takes to work around the issue is changing the volume by 10 dB or doing the same in the level calibration menu, that is if you actually use ref level for playback instead of adjusting volume within a range that most people would call comfortable.


What exactly do you mean by ignored and how did you try to make contact? Tech support almost never denies requests for beta software*, and I've listed the normal communications channels here many times before along with the resons to use them so I'll just relate a little story from when I used to be in TS:


One day I got a voice mail with a problem explanation but the caller didn't leave his number. Happens sometimes**. The next day I got an e-mail from the same person but upon responding I got an auto-reply saying that my message was blocked because my address is unrecognized. Also nothing new. A couple of days later a 2-page letter from a lawyer's office rolled out of the fax machine indicating our failure to reply and what would happen if we didn't take immediate action. I immediately grabbed the nearest pen, wrote on the bottom of the second page saying no call-back number was left and e-mail was blocked a few days earlier, and faxed it back. Soon after that everything was normal. Even though it was only a few years ago I suppose it was good that some people still used fax, but if not for that I hope that the sender could have figured out that the company also has a receptionist.


*the only reason I can think of is someone showing a history of being incapable of installing updates, and TS doesn't ignore such inquiries, they say please see your dealer


**these days with mobile phones and VOIP in so much use a not so unusual variation is a call through a bad connection leaving parts of the message inaudible, including the call-back number


So if it happens, don't take it personally.


----------



## Mike Lindsey

I'm sure this has been answered many times in this thread, even though I couldn't find anything while doing a search, but can someone point me to a link where I can purchase a RS-232E to USB cable that will allow me to run ARC on my Lenova T61 laptop. I have bought some cables off of Amazon that do not work, as they are too big and bulky to fit over the D2 (original) RS-232 port.


Any help here would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Keyspan USA-19HS

http://www.tripplite.com/en/products/model.cfm?txtModelID=3914 


available via tech support for $30 plus shipping though outside of Canada you might find a better price online with shipping factored in, and quicker delivery without Customs in the middle.


As for the physical size, it's not an issue. Do not connect the adapter directly to the D2v. Use a serial extension cable in between. A 15-ft one is supplied with AVM/D (since long ago). Check the ARC kit.


For anyone thinking about buying a new AVM 50v / D2v, note that at some point we started including the adapter in the ARC kit.


Be sure to download the latest driver from Tripplite as the adapter's CD may be out of date.


----------



## Mike Lindsey

Thanks Nick! I do have the original cable that came with the unit. Will purchase this and update you over the weekend.


Mike


----------



## matty1137

I'd like to connect a serial cable from the output of my D2 to the serial port on my Dell laptop to run ARC. Will I need a straight-through cable or an extension cable? Is it okay if my cable is 25-feet long?


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200#post_23075272
> 
> 
> Shayne2, sometimes it's better to hold off a while instead of chasing issues involving someone else's new product. Maybe in this case the problem is Windows 8. ARC worked all along in this regard, every service pack since XP1, and all it takes to work around the issue is changing the volume by 10 dB or doing the same in the level calibration menu, that is if you actually use ref level for playback instead of adjusting volume within a range that most people would call comfortable.
> 
> 
> What exactly do you mean by ignored and how did you try to make contact? Tech support almost never denies requests for beta software*, and I've listed the normal communications channels here many times before along with the resons to use them so I'll just relate a little story from when I used to be in TS:
> 
> 
> One day I got a voice mail with a problem explanation but the caller didn't leave his number. Happens sometimes**. The next day I got an e-mail from the same person but upon responding I got an auto-reply saying that my message was blocked because my address is unrecognized. Also nothing new. A couple of days later a 2-page letter from a lawyer's office rolled out of the fax machine indicating our failure to reply and what would happen if we didn't take immediate action. I immediately grabbed the nearest pen, wrote on the bottom of the second page saying no call-back number was left and e-mail was blocked a few days earlier, and faxed it back. Soon after that everything was normal. Even though it was only a few years ago I suppose it was good that some people still used fax, but if not for that I hope that the sender could have figured out that the company also has a receptionist.
> 
> 
> *the only reason I can think of is someone showing a history of being incapable of installing updates, and TS doesn't ignore such inquiries, they say please see your dealer
> 
> 
> **these days with mobile phones and VOIP in so much use a not so unusual variation is a call through a bad connection leaving parts of the message inaudible, including the call-back number
> 
> 
> So if it happens, don't take it personally.



We are not too sure what you mean about someone else’s new product? Do you mean the latest OS by M$ that has been in beta for years which every major software provider now supports? I do not believe I chase anything, I just stay current and currently still require a dual boot system for one app .... ARC. Here we go again ..... the problem with no audio and handshake over hdmi is the offending component use optical not hdmi (now fixed by anthem in 3.09), now it is the windows OS that needs to be honed to run ARC, I will contact M$ about it maybe they will rewrite some code. Foobar is running fine in windows 8, ARC is not. Are you suggesting that I run arc and then raise the solution by 10 db in the setup menu? That to me is no work around. If this is a new mic requirement let us know and sign me up for one.


I have filled in a tech support form for beta access and for the windows 8 problem that I am having and have never received any response. The form is now view as a waste of time for me. I have tried my rep a week and a half ago and he immediately relayed it to tech support ...... still no response.


I am an engineer of 27 years and besides my design I build and run the IT in my company, I have flashed more kinds of machines than you can imagine and have only ever bricked 1 asus board in all the time I have been doing it, $10 cmos chip and it was back up and running. I therefore do not really think I fall under your * and since my internet connection is good thru my openvpn and the forms are submitted successfully ** may also not be valid, thanks for the response.


Regards


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200#post_23078014
> 
> 
> Are you suggesting that I run arc and then raise the solution by 10 db in the setup menu?



Only if using the volume control bothers you, and as for how the menu setting works, keep in mind that whether you set x dB in the level calibration menu or ARC sets it, the output is the same. Either way, the volume chip sees only the _combination_ of volume setting, level calibration, and on-the-fly adjustments. It has no idea what each one is or who/what set it. Raising one adjustment by x amount while lowering the other by same amount = no difference. None whatsoever.


Searching the TS inbox through a period longer than the 4.5 months since Windows 8 entered the market, there's no message with a problem description connected to the first name you're using here. I have no idea why unless you used a different name. I don't know who your rep is therefore can't look up his name. Regardless, the ARC 10 dB bug never existed in Windows 7, Vista, and XP, and the only thing that changed at the moment that the bug appeared is the OS, not ARC, so the answer from TS wouldn't have been much different.


For beta access the alternatives are a phone call away or waiting for v3.10 general release which I doubt will be long because so far there hasn't been a beta tester bug report.


----------



## AV_mike

Hi Nick, seeing as your here at the moment..............

On the MRX range of AVRs, after ARC has been run - with all speaker levels between +/-3db - when the volume control is set at 0dB, would the output level be classed as Reference Level (if the speakers, amps, etc could handle that level without clipping, distortion, etc). Please note I never even attempt to run my system at those levels (more like -20 to -25 for movies, lower for normal TV)

I just wanted to be able to compare with my previous Onkyo, where 0dB volume would equate to Ref Level. Read somewhere that Anthem Ref Level is at either -10dB or +10dB, but not zero.

Regards, Mike.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200#post_23078807
> 
> 
> Only if using the volume control bothers you, and as for how the menu setting works, keep in mind that whether you set x dB in the level calibration menu or ARC sets it, the output is the same. Either way, the volume chip sees only the _combination_ of volume setting, level calibration, and on-the-fly adjustments. It has no idea what each one is or who/what set it. Raising one adjustment by x amount while lowering the other by same amount = no difference. None whatsoever.
> 
> 
> Searching the TS inbox through a period longer than the 4.5 months since Windows 8 entered the market, there's no message with a problem description connected to the first name you're using here. I have no idea why unless you used a different name. I don't know who your rep is therefore can't look up his name. Regardless, the ARC 10 dB bug never existed in Windows 7, Vista, and XP, and the only thing that changed at the moment that the bug appeared is the OS, not ARC, so the answer from TS wouldn't have been much different.
> 
> 
> For beta access the alternatives are a phone call away or waiting for v3.10 general release which I doubt will be long because so far there hasn't been a beta tester bug report.



One would wish for once someone would stand up and indicate that we are aware of the issue and we are looking into it. Pointing fingers at others is always the best way to fix a problem. You are right my real name is not shayne2 but I would not doubt in that 4 1/2 month search you did come across it. The beta request maybe was prior.


The setup adjustment of the arc solution appears to be a worthless exercise to me and a real pain. Are you telling me the arc solution does not take volume into account and just uploads random levels each time? I know I can just raise the volume to - 5 db to get -15 db but that is certainly not the point. The point is that the arc software does not hear the true volume of the speakers, has anthem tried this and are you aware of it. That is all I am looking for right now acknowledgement that it is there and is reproducible.


Thanks for the heads up on 3.10


Regards


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200#post_23078995
> 
> 
> Are you telling me the arc solution does not take volume into account and just uploads random levels each time?



no


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV_mike*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200#post_23078841
> 
> 
> when the volume control is set at 0dB, would the output level be classed as Reference Level



Depends on the definition. Between Dolby and THX it used to be the same but at some point Dolby lowered it by 3.5 dB and that's what we've been using since.


Since this is about comparing two AVRs I'd recommend confirming matched volume with the help of a SPL meter, preferably on a on a tripod, and a 1 kHz sine wave or random noise from an external source to be sure that everything is accounted for (there's no guarantee that built-in test noises are identical between two AVRs so don't use them for this), keeping in mind that level still won't be consistent across the frequency range if room eq is at play.


----------



## Mike Lindsey

What's the normal turnaround time when sending an email to Anthem Tech support? I sent one yesterday morning and haven't gotten a response yet. I'm not quite sure what fast and really efficient means. If it means 2 - 3 days then I'm sure I'll hear something soon. Is it better to just call them?


Mike


----------



## Mike Lindsey

Andrew just responded to my email...


----------



## Mike Lindsey

Tech support thinks I could have a power supply issue and that I should send the unit in to them. Well it's not under warranty and it could get pricey, plus the S/H will probably run me $100. Before sending it in to them I would like to get some other feedback. I ran this issue by the Forum back in Nov/2011. I got a response from Bob, but didn't delve too far into it.


In a nutshell, I purchased my D2 used in Dec, 2010, and within 9 - 10 months of use I started to have some issues with the HDMI cables. I was running an HDMI cable from the DirecTV box to HDMI Input 1, and from my Oppo 83 SE to HDMI Input 2, and then running an HDMI cable from the Anthem Out to the Input on my 63" Plasma Samsung (PN63C8000).


What started happening is it would take longer and longer on power-up to get video on the Samsung, and sound to come out of my Klipsch Klipschorns. I would have to power the Anthem up and down 2 or 3 times in the beginning, and then it started taking 7 or 8 power up and downs, and then after a while I couldn't get it to work at all using the HDMI inputs/outputs. All of the HDMI cables were made by BlueJeanCable, and work on various other systems.


In order to get everything to work I am having to run the HDMI cables directly from the sources to the Samsung for video, and I am using an optical cable from the DirecTV box to the Anthem for sound, and using the 6 analog outputs on the Oppo to the 6 analog inputs on the Anthem to get sound for DVD's and Blu-Rays. This gets me decent video and sound, but I lose the HDMI audio on all sources, and I really miss the upscaling feature of the Anthem when I play regular DVD's.


Anybody run into anything like this? Does this sound like a power supply issue to you? I have lived with this for over a year now and I am ready to get this working the way it should be working. I have also never updated the software on the D2, and am wondering if that might resolve it (will check tomorrow what the version is).


Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Mike


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200#post_23080171
> 
> 
> no



That is the response to the below post?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200#post_23078995
> 
> 
> One would wish for once someone would stand up and indicate that we are aware of the issue and we are looking into it. Pointing fingers at others is always the best way to fix a problem. You are right my real name is not shayne2 but I would not doubt in that 4 1/2 month search you did come across it. The beta request maybe was prior.
> 
> 
> The setup adjustment of the arc solution appears to be a worthless exercise to me and a real pain. Are you telling me the arc solution does not take volume into account and just uploads random levels each time? I know I can just raise the volume to - 5 db to get -15 db but that is certainly not the point. *The point is that the arc software does not hear the true volume of the speakers, has anthem tried this and are you aware of it. That is all I am looking for right now acknowledgement that it is there and is reproducible.*
> 
> 
> Thanks for the heads up on 3.10
> 
> 
> Regards



I understand that it does not upload random volume levels. We would appreciate a straight answer to a very clear question.


Regards


----------



## Bruceko

Amy one know what is happening to Anthems web site

I tried to download the latest ARC software. When I click on Download it says "file not found on server"

I am seeing several other broken links.


----------



## spikerdawg

my dilemma. currently own mrx 700. love it so much i have decided to upgrade to the P5. can buy used p5 and d2v mint for 10 grand. 45 for p5 and 55 for d2v. am planning on using mrx 700 as pre pro for p5. seems a waste to use 700 as just as a pre pro. probably get 1500 for 700 if i sell it. is it worth the extra 4 grand for the d2v? my main concern is music as i am using epson pro cinema 6010 projector which has awesome video picture. should i buy both or just the P5? Thanks in advance for any insight Dave. P.S. running paradigm studio 100's main.cc 690 v.5. adp 590 surrounds with 2 studio sub 12's. will there be a noticeable difference in music sound using the d2v over the mrx 700 as a pre pro?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200#post_23073615
> 
> 
> Regarding the future of the D2v.
> 
> 
> I love the fact that it has had a long lifetime and is still being actively developed for. I bought mine four years ago and the base features still rock because they are continually maintained. That is saying something quite positive in this day and age of planned obsolescence and product churn (yes I am thinking of you Microsoft).
> 
> 
> 11.3 doesn't particularly interest me. I don't really envision any serious software support for it. Heck, there isn't much with 7.1.
> 
> 
> I didn't buy the 3D upgrade - I'm not a 3D fan. If I was I'd do it, but it's not my cuppa.
> 
> *A 4K passthrough upgrade in the future is something I think will be needed to keep the D2V relevant. It's a significant disadvantage not having the ability to switch sources with your prepro. I hope to have the option of purchasing this in the future.*
> 
> 
> ARC continues to be huge for me. Room correction processing to me is the core competency of the D2V. Anything you do in that area is greatly appreciated. If there are some advanced capabilities that could be added if there was an income stream from ARC upgrades I think you should consider doing it.
> 
> 
> An IP interface would be cool but not worth 5 figures for me.
> 
> 
> USB - nah. I have an Oppo for a media player. That satisfies all my USB needs. It would ease firmware updates, but let's be real. Once you get set up for it the RS-232 method is fine.


 

I agree that 4K passthrough support would at least keep the D2v relevant for the next 5-10 years. Hollywood might not yet have original 4K sources for consumers but they've decided its the future. Movies are now made digitally in 4K format and some in 8K format and shown on the massive theatrical screens.

RED already makes 4K bluray boxes that can play this format. Many current BD players can upscale to the 4K format(Oppo 103/105), Sony and others.

 

OMG, did you notice CES2013???  It was ALL about 4K and UHD(Ultra High Definition). Nothing else but 4K, so many(if not all)TV manufacturers are ramping up their new products for mainstream 4K delivery this summer.

 

So while no consumer bluray disks available today are 4K capable, other sources of 4K content exist through upscaling as shown above. And next generation bluray players will be capable of 4K support. I bet Oppo and others will have this capability in their next-gen players in 2015 and beyond plus automatic room correction capability and multiple HDMI 1.4a inputs that support 4K video. They already have 2 so far...

 

The addition of multiple HDMI inputs and automatic room correction in future BD players will negatively affect and stall future D2v sales greatly. Folks will look at the non-4K capable $10K D2v and look at a future Oppo BD player with multiple HDMI switching inputs plus room correction with superb stereo and analog outputs(maybe for less than $2K) and wonder what the real $8K price advantage is. I believe many D2v/50v units will up on Audiogon soon after that killing this great Anthem brand if they still keep insisting that what they have is good enough for most discerning audiophiles... who are rapidly becoming picky videophiles and use the latest electronic toys on the market.

 

If you refuse to change or adapt with the times, you run the definite risk if becoming obsolete, however improbable that notion might be in your minds.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23082742
> 
> 
> Hollywood might not yet have original 4K sources for consumers but they've decided its the future. ... OMG, did you notice CES2013???  It was ALL about 4K and UHD(Ultra High Definition). Nothing else but 4K, so many(if not all)TV manufacturers are ramping up their new products for mainstream 4K delivery this summer.



Not a knock on 4K but that's what said about 3D in 2010... so much for the "build it and they will come" mantra.


Recommended reading on the subject of predictions: The Signal And The Noise by Nate Silver.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23081783
> 
> 
> That is the response to the below post?
> 
> I understand that it does not upload random volume levels. We would appreciate a straight answer to a very clear question.



Everything ending with a question mark was answered but now y'all are saying that the question was y'all's assumption/declaration ending with a period. I still can't answer to that unless you can deliver an indication of whether your levels are low, graphs are low, or both are low and by how much, and possibly your .arc file. No conjecture - just observations, and yours alone. Since the web form didn't work maybe it's time to try tech at anthemav dot com or calling.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23082975
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23082742
> 
> 
> Hollywood might not yet have original 4K sources for consumers but they've decided its the future. ... OMG, did you notice CES2013???  It was ALL about 4K and UHD(Ultra High Definition). Nothing else but 4K, so many(if not all)TV manufacturers are ramping up their new products for mainstream 4K delivery this summer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a knock on 4K but that's what said about 3D in 2010... so much for the "build it and they will come" mantra.
> 
> 
> Recommended reading on the subject of predictions: The Signal And The Noise by Nate Silver.
Click to expand...

I agree with you on the 3D issue ...lots of hype so far with headache inducing 3D glasses. But 4K involves greater resolution and the promise of getting cinema quality images in a home theater which is very addictive and makes people want to spend money on upgrading their various pieces of equipment in their HT systems whether they need it or not. I think this is the wave you risk losing on if you don't plan to join it ... just my 2cents.


----------



## turk 182

Hello guys big week for me, just ordered an Anthem AVM 50v 3D along with Anthem A5 to replace my NAD T175HD and NAD T975 amp. Can`t wait. Gonna pair it with Paradigm signature series speakers and sub 25. What should I expect, a huge step up from NAD. Just sheer HT joy. I`ve heard great things about ARC and I think that will just put my system over the edge to greatness! Any pointers for ARC or anything for I am an Anthem/ARC newbie. NAD stuff for sale by the way.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23082983
> 
> 
> Everything ending with a question mark was answered but now y'all are saying that the question was y'all's assumption/declaration ending with a period. I still can't answer to that unless you can deliver an indication of whether your levels are low, graphs are low, or both are low and by how much, and possibly your .arc file. No conjecture - just observations, and yours alone. Since the web form didn't work maybe it's time to try tech at anthemav dot com or calling.



We are sorry this has been posted here for months and we assumed you follow this thread.


It has also been sent to tech support 2 times.


Charts are low, solution is low. Not too sure I should have answered this since there was no question mark?


If you need questions marks to provide a respectful answer we will try one more time for Y'ALL. If that goes no where then I guess the comment in my post that you started to respond to will have been proven correct.


1) Does the arc software hear the true volume of the speakers in windows 8?


2) Is anthem aware that it does not?


3) Will anthem acknowledgement that it is there and is reproducible?


4) Do you still employ the people from the NRC that develop ARC.


Regards

Anthem Arc low response.png 265k .png file


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warpdrv*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/27600#post_18400614
> 
> 
> 
> This is Paradigm / Anthem - across the board... speakers, subs as well, everything...
> 
> 
> 
> Prices are slated to be going up 10%...
> 
> 
> 
> glad I got everything I wanted before all this.... those prices are a little steep...



Seems to be the norm for Anthem/Paradigm.


Of course nobody is actually paying MSRP so don't be too put off by those numbers.....


----------



## RussVC

I find I agree with dmusoke in that I am disappointed with Anthem's lack of progress with general developments.


However, it is the firmware that I find so troubling... Nick has referenced the D2v "five years and still developing", but really, all that has been "developed" is/are bug fixes which arguably should not have existed in a >$12,000 product (I live in the UK...). I am ignoring the Dolby volume thing which (for whatever reason) is simply a mess and in my experience just does not work correctly. After five years no new features and still fixing bugs... and some of those bugs are quite fundamental. I am also ignoring the 3D board which I do not consider an upgrade, more like a downgrade in that it bypasses the scalar at a cost of £600 (nearly $1000).


I do appreciate that there have been some sound/performance improvements over the three years that I have owned a D2v, but if it wasn't for this forum and "manually" checking Anthem's web site then even those would have been missed.


I have tried various other room correction systems including TMA's TMReq (which was way ahead of it's time) and Audyssey (the external processor and Pro set-up kit), and have no complaints about the comparative performance, just that the ARC interface is ancient, buggy and undeveloped, and there has been no progress on adding facilities and features. Even relatively simple requests, like visibility of below 20Hz to say nothing of more complex features, like response shaping, low shelf/high shelf filters, peaking filters (available a number of years ago with Audyssey) etc. These were elements that I had hoped would be available and add value to the same or similar level that I experienced with TMReq developments before TMA pulled-out... and maybe therein lies the reason, real developments cost money.


I should also add that I am using Win8 Pro 64-bit and have found no (additional) issues, works fine for me.


Regards


Russ


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23083184
> 
> 
> We are sorry this has been posted here for months and we assumed you follow this thread.



Who is "we"?


I twice recommended that you reach out to tech support through means not already attempted.


1. My understanding of how it works is that software can't hear. Mic picks up sound, ARC does calculations through math that's run by Windows then uploads level settings to the processor. The reason that a different level is chosen through Windows 8 when the OS is the only variable is a mystery especially since the curves are identical according to your screenshots.


2. That's an odd question to follow up the first with but if you mean is anyone at Anthem aware that something strange is happening between ARC and Windows 8 the answer is yes - I'm reading about it right here. I haven't seen any other mention of the bug in this thread although in the MRX thread one person said only the graphs are low - not output as you say, which he checked with an SPL meter. That's only two initial reports and as anyone can see they already conflict, so make no more assumptions.


3. Only if it turns out to be reproducible and the answer would most likely come from TS. I'm not TS. When someone provides steps to reproduce an issue and anyone within the company is able to reproduce it, TS then contacts the sender and says, "we reproduced the problem, are working on it and will get back to you when there's news." Then one day it might lead to "would you be interested in trying a beta to see if it resolves the problem?" That's the normal process as is TS contacting the sender for more info when the problem can't be reproduced. Without your .arc file (not a screenshot) TS may never be able to answer your question.


4. The people that developed ARC haven't been at Canada's NRC since the 1990s. Paradigm hired them at that time and they're still with the company. I'd wager they'll remain unaware of the Windows 8 thing unless TS gathers the necessary info to open an internal bug report and kick off an investigation. That's the normal process.


I have said many times that no one at Anthem reads AVS but myself, and that's occasionally and voluntarily. This week it's because v3.09h beta is floating around and since I'm out of the office I want to keep up with what's going on (happy that so far there's nothing). Discussions I got myself into after looking at a week's worth of posts is a coincidence and I have only so much personal time to set aside for such pleasure.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RussVC*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23083966
> 
> 
> Nick has referenced the D2v "five years and still developing", but really, all that has been "developed" is/are bug fixes which arguably should not have existed in a >$12,000 product (I live in the UK...).



Nice way to spin it but I was referencing the 3D/bypass hardware upgrade not software although that's part of what makes everything possible. If anywhere in your message there is a problem description involving your system, and yours alone, please forward it to your dealer or tech support.


----------



## gerard1meehan

For some reason over the last few days there seems to be a reoccurring theme about either Anthems support, or their chosen direction of product development. And many of these post have seemed to air on the negative side.


We are all entitled to our opinion. I just want to say that whenever I have e-mailed a direct tech support person at Anthem, or picked up the phone to ask for help I have never been let down. The same goes for the side of the company that supports the Paradigm product line.


Perhaps my perception is based on my view of the products. I feel my D2v3d is more of a Porsche than a Honda. Sure I would have very few hiccups with the Honda, but hey I’d rather be on the side of on the Autobahn after having the drive of my life (near Munich preferably) with my Porsche then putting down the road in my Honda.


I appreciate people’s frustrations. I have had issues too (software & hardware). But when she is running, and that is 99.99% of the time it is a thing of beauty. I don’t watch films and listen to music. I experience story’s and share emotions!


I trust as time and technology progresses Anthem will provide me with quality upgrades to my device, or a path to upgrade that is reasonable


That’s my 2 cents


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40200_100#post_23084946
> 
> 
> I just want to say that whenever I have e-mailed a direct tech support person at Anthem, or picked up the phone to ask for help I have never been let down.


*THAT IS MY EXPERIENCE SINCE OWNING

a D2 Since almost Day-One*


----------



## dmusoke


Nick:

 

Can you then help us some more by answering these two questions of mine:

 

1. Do you plan to follow up on the 3D upgrade by designing one that also supports 4K video, at least pass it through if it can't process it? If so, when would the target dates be? This would keep the D2v relevant for the next 10 years i believe(or until its parts are no longer supported by manufacturers).

 

2. What circuitry (in general terms) does a signal go through when the D2v is in Analog-Direct mode? Any active parts in the path(buffers, filters etc) in addition to the volume control?

 

The reason i ask, is that i connected by Oppo BDP-105 stereo outs (XLR) directly to my power amplifier(Sunfire 7x400W) and the sound was just simply glorious. It was 'there', a presence i'd never known. But when sent through the D2v (XLR ins and outs), comparativel, it sounds 'muted' and somewhat veiled.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23085177
> 
> 
> Nick:
> 
> 
> Can you then help us some more by answering these two questions of mine:
> 
> 
> 1. Do you plan to follow up on the 3D upgrade by designing one that also supports 4K video, at least pass it through if it can't process it? If so, when would the target dates be? This would keep the D2v relevant for the next 10 years i believe(or until its parts are no longer supported by manufacturers).
> 
> 
> 2. What circuitry (in general terms) does a signal go through when the D2v is in Analog-Direct mode? Any active parts in the path(buffers, filters etc) in addition to the volume control?
> 
> 
> The reason i ask, is that i connected by Oppo BDP-105 stereo outs (XLR) directly to my power amplifier(Sunfire 7x400W) and the sound was just simply glorious. It was 'there', a presence i'd never known. But when sent through the D2v (XLR ins and outs), comparativel, it sounds 'muted' and somewhat veiled.



I asked this question of Anthem CS as I was concerned about audio signal degregation in the D2v. especially the analog inputs.

ARC does great processing for home theater but stereo analog sounds better.


Anthem states and they advertise that there is no loss of SQ in their volume control using Analog Direct


Question: Please describe how the D2v accomplishes the ANALOG input level matching in the Analog input level setup section.


Answer: The level is being reduced in the pre-amp stage within an op-amp.


Think 4K is going to go away. ?

Jeff Meiier of AccuCal was here to calibrate my 4K Sony television and stated he has never before seen a tv with such an outstanding picture.

He said he was very excited to see something better than anything he has seen before.


Anthem owners need to be able to pass thru the 4K video or at least have the Anthem units send the correct EDID information over HDMI so the HDMI audio is usable.


----------



## xMEATx

How


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23085177
> 
> 
> Nick:
> 
> 
> Can you then help us some more by answering these two questions of mine:
> 
> 
> 1. Do you plan to follow up on the 3D upgrade by designing one that also supports 4K video, at least pass it through if it can't process it? If so, when would the target dates be? This would keep the D2v relevant for the next 10 years i believe(or until its parts are no longer supported by manufacturers).
> 
> 
> 2. What circuitry (in general terms) does a signal go through when the D2v is in Analog-Direct mode? Any active parts in the path(buffers, filters etc) in addition to the volume control?
> 
> 
> The reason i ask, is that i connected by Oppo BDP-105 stereo outs (XLR) directly to my power amplifier(Sunfire 7x400W) and the sound was just simply glorious. It was 'there', a presence i'd never known. But when sent through the D2v (XLR ins and outs), comparativel, it sounds 'muted' and somewhat veiled.



How do you control the volume when you connect direct to the amp?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23085388
> 
> 
> I asked this question of Anthem CS as I was concerned about audio signal degregation in the D2v. especially the analog inputs.
> 
> ARC does great processing for home theater but stereo analog sounds better.
> 
> 
> Anthem states and they advertise that there is no loss of SQ in their volume control using Analog Direct
> 
> 
> Question: Please describe how the D2v accomplishes the ANALOG input level matching in the Analog input level setup section.
> 
> 
> Answer: The level is being reduced in the pre-amp stage within an op-amp.
> 
> 
> Think 4K is going to go away. ?
> 
> Jeff Meiier of AccuCal was here to calibrate my 4K Sony television and stated he has never before seen a tv with such an outstanding picture.
> 
> He said he was very excited to see something better than anything he has seen before.
> 
> *Anthem owners need to be able to pass thru the 4K video or at least have the Anthem units send the correct EDID information over HDMI so the HDMI audio is usable.*




Yes please, I intend to go 4K very soon also.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23084175
> 
> 
> I twice recommended that you reach out to tech support through means not already attempted.



Thank you, I appreciate your response. You must understand that when your nick is [email protected] you represent the company on a professional level whether you do it on your own time or not. I have submitted a tech form at the anthem web site, I have contacted my paradigm/anthem rep and he has forward to a specific person in tech support that responded to him he received it, I have made you aware thru this forum. Where else and what other avenue should i explorer? I have no doubt that if arc is ran in a windows 8 environment it will be easily reproducible, however as you suggest, the only way that tech support would believe and understand the true scope of the problem is if they do it themselves. That is where this needs to start, not me proving to them it exists. They have the equipment and the know how to verify the extent of the impact. This OS will soon be main stream and it is to anthems’ best interest to ensure the arc process shines as we all know it can. You must understand that the combination of people that run arc, have upgrade to windows 8 and know what we should be getting is small in numbers and therefore this should be a flag even if it is just a couple of us. The graphs I posted alone are results something is going on that anthem needs to explorer. Whether or how long it takes anthem to do that is only anthems to determine.


Maybe one day I will get a response, you knows.


Thanks again


Regards


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23082975
> 
> 
> Not a knock on 4K but that's what said about 3D in 2010... so much for the "build it and they will come" mantra.
> 
> 
> Recommended reading on the subject of predictions: The Signal And The Noise by Nate Silver.



So you are saying I can put my free board in the closet and wait for the craze of 3d to hit







. Who'd a thunk it. The processing on 50v makes my 2d set shine and if it ain't broken. The true value of this fantastic box is the music. You can never image what a processor can do for you until you hear this one.


Regards


----------



## rmalm

To Mike Lindsey,


I have a setup that uses the same video sources. My only sources are Directv and Oppo 93, using HDMI to a M50v-3d inputs, and I use M50v HDMI-1 output to Runco DHD4 and HDMI up to the V11d projector. I just added an HDMI2 output to RF extender to a Sony monitor. Source switching to Oppo always has a little noisy on sync (video and audio glitches), and sometimes fails to sync but a power cycle would clear. This lack of sync was either no video or video colors are screwed but at least a power cycle would finally clear and sync correctly.


My rack cables are 1meter (Ultraviolet $100 wireworld) in length and then a 9meter wireworld (HDMI starlight $500), " http://www.wireworldcable.com/categories/hdmi_series6.html " Anthem software upgrades did not solve the problem.

I did try using Runco DHD4 to do the HDMI switching and ran runco HDMI out to M50v for audio which worked better at switching than the M50v. This hookup never failed to sync. But I wanted the video overlay so I cabled my rack back to M50v for switching and the problems showed up again. Then I upgraded to the latest HDMI 1.4 - 3d board hoping this would help but it did not. The intermittent fail with Oppo got worse. The source switching from Sat to Oppo that would sometimes cause a sync fail whre a power cycle of the M50v now would not clear that fail. A switch back to the Sat (DVR) would also fail until I would power off the Oppo and then I could get Sat to sync some of the time.


A switch to Sat/DVR always synced faster and cleaner than a switch to Oppo (whose data volume was set higher). Directv is 1080i and Oppo is set to Source Direct. M50v out configs are at 1080p. Anthem suggested using M50v setting for the sources a Studio RGB vs YCBCR 4.2.2, and only using 8bit for color space (YCbCr 4.2.2.) with Deep Color OFF, setting in Oppo. Fails would get worse where more data is transmitted from Oppo.


The current workaround from Anthem was to switch to the source settings to use THROUGH. This was a little more stable but of course one does not get the nice video screen overlay for status, mode, menu etc. So I switched back and do not use THROUGH, to trying to get M50v to switch and get the video processing. I also did yet another software upgrade to version 3.09 which showed no improvement in sync but it did solve an intermittent case where volume would be too low on power up.


The wireworld cables are very stiff and this could results in a torque on them that could result in less than optimum contact resistance. I decided to try contact cleaner after about 2 years of the above problems. About 1 week ago I used DeoxIT and DeoxIT Gold and focused on all connections in the rack but did not get up in the huxhbox and do the 1 Runco connection. No complete fails in the last week. Switching still has some noise bursts (video and audio) that I have learned to live with. Switching times are about 6-7 seconds which is down from slower times at day 1 when I got the M50v and was using max data volumes.


So set your devices to output the least amount of data volume that your willing to live with especially Oppo output setting. Second, make sure the cables are very good, short, and are making good connection. Third, I also added a small fan to blow across the top of the M50v since the area seemed pretty warm one time when it locked up and would not sync even with a power cycle. I only have 1" of space above the M50v for air flow.


I am the queue for another software upgrade that I hope helps HDMI sync. Maybe someday a Anthem RS232 based HDMI trace function to help debug what and when there is an Anthem HDMI problem.


----------



## Thxtheater

I've had my share of odd HDMI quirks to say the least. I just picked up an HDMI cable tester. I suggest it be added to everyone's toolkit.


----------



## Shayne2

^ been running monoprice redmere for a while with no tester required. I sure hope they start to run these compact chip cables in component lengths because it does clean up the rear stage front.


Regards


Edit I mean slims r what I am running with no problem, which also look to be the ultimate solution once they sell @ 3'.


Regards


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23085408
> 
> 
> How
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23085177
> 
> 
> Nick:
> 
> 
> Can you then help us some more by answering these two questions of mine:
> 
> 
> 1. Do you plan to follow up on the 3D upgrade by designing one that also supports 4K video, at least pass it through if it can't process it? If so, when would the target dates be? This would keep the D2v relevant for the next 10 years i believe(or until its parts are no longer supported by manufacturers).
> 
> 
> 2. What circuitry (in general terms) does a signal go through when the D2v is in Analog-Direct mode? Any active parts in the path(buffers, filters etc) in addition to the volume control?
> 
> 
> The reason i ask, is that i connected by Oppo BDP-105 stereo outs (XLR) directly to my power amplifier(Sunfire 7x400W) and the sound was just simply glorious. It was 'there', a presence i'd never known. But when sent through the D2v (XLR ins and outs), comparativel, it sounds 'muted' and somewhat veiled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you control the volume when you connect direct to the amp?
Click to expand...

The Oppo BDP-105 player has its own independent volume control for the analog outs via the remote







...


----------



## xMEATx

^^ Nice...it appears they have thought of most everything.


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23084204
> 
> 
> Nice way to spin it but I was referencing the 3D/bypass hardware upgrade not software although that's part of what makes everything possible. If anywhere in your message there is a problem description involving your system, and yours alone, please forward it to your dealer or tech support.



I'm not sure what you are referring to with "Nice way to spin it", or maybe you're being sarcastic, either way I am not "spinning" anything, just stating a fact as I see it. Please feel free to correct me and point out an "upgrade" delivered by firmware/software apart from the ill fated Dolby Volume (which I have already mentioned), rather than bug fixes, I'm happy to accept that I missed something. I was however amused by your description of the 3D/bypass hardware as an "upgrade"... It's interesting how bypassing the video section of the D2v can be described as an upgrade... It's not adding 3D capability, just no longer blocking it, but at the penalty of losing other functions (OSD, scaling etc.), not a complaint or problem, an observation.


I guess this "If anywhere in your message there is a problem description..." is more sarcasm, if I wanted to seek help with a problem then I would clearly state it, also email Anthem TS with the relevant information and files. I am simply expressing opinions (this is a public forum after all), along with the implication that Anthem in many ways is not delivering benefits via the firmware/software updates but fulfilling it's obligation to fix bugs... I would like to see enhancements as well as bugs fixed and I gave some examples of where I had previously experienced this (TMA & Audyssey) along with further examples of what I had hoped would be delivered.


Sorry if I offended you, that is not my intention, and it was not directed at "you".


Regards


Russ


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RussVC*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23087105
> 
> 
> I would like to see enhancements as well as bugs fixed and I gave some examples of where I had previously experienced this (TMA & Audyssey) along with further examples of what I had hoped would be delivered.



I'm just hoping that everyone understands that any time that our lit mentioned the possibility of upgrades it also said they would occur as technology permitted. I don't know when you purchased your D2v but it appeared on the market in Jan 2009 well before any mention of 3D. That's why when the new hardware appeared, it was an upgrade. Any other impression resulting from information sources other than Anthem is something Anthem can't be responsible for. As long as wish lists are being discussed here's the ultimate, and who will be the first to fulfill all of that before the next buying season...

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463143/what-would-you-like-to-see-in-your-next-avr


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23087071
> 
> 
> ^^ Nice...it appears they have thought of most everything.



Oppo always had volume control - started before Blu-ray.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23085637
> 
> 
> You must understand that when your nick is [email protected] you represent the company on a professional level whether you do it on your own time or not.



I do but that doesn't mean I can automatically provide the support you're looking for so as requested please stay with the normal channels. Somewhere something must've fallen through the cracks so please contact your rep again. I've done everything I can here and nowhere did I ask for proof, just for a problem description to be forwarded, hopefully with an avoidance of jumping to conclusions. You're saying graphs and levels are low, someone else is saying only graphs not levels, and yet someone else mentioned he's having no problem. This means there's no good reason for anyone to assume that anyone else including us should instantly be able to reproduce your description.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23085388
> 
> 
> Think 4K is going to go away. ?



My point was that as far as the prepro is concerned it's about 4K _sources_ becoming mainstream and it's not happening overnight. 4K displays are fine with being fed 1080p when the source isn't 4K. That's also why a D3 still doesn't exist except on paper. Anyone into early adoption has to be prepared for anything that the transition may involve, and in your case for now that means finding an HDMI splitter that can handle 4K allowing video to go straight to the display and audio to the prepro. I don't know how much that may cost but I doubt it would approach the cost of a new prepro.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23085177
> 
> 
> What circuitry (in general terms) does a signal go through when the D2v is in Analog-Direct mode? Any active parts in the path(buffers, filters etc) in addition to the volume control?
> 
> 
> The reason i ask, is that i connected by Oppo BDP-105 stereo outs (XLR) directly to my power amplifier(Sunfire 7x400W) and the sound was just simply glorious. It was 'there', a presence i'd never known. But when sent through the D2v (XLR ins and outs), comparativel, it sounds 'muted' and somewhat veiled.



Knowing what's inside in basic block-diagram form isn't going to tell you much but since you asked it's an all-analog active path with the usual devices - opamps and volume controls (carefully selected, laid out, and working in synergy of course). Without buffers - that's opamps running at zero gain - the frequency response would vary according to volume setting and/or cable length and/or amp input impedance, which is why you hardly see passive preamps anywhere, in fact I get the impression that the only places they exist is among people too concerned with block diagrams and not enough about what comes out the output jack, open-mindedly.


As for what you're hearing I can only say that when the signal path is known to be audibly transparent and that first-time participants in properly set up blind tests often leave very surprised, maybe try a few more listening sessions. For an idea of how easily the eye beats the ear, given normal vision and hearing, the two videos below may be of interest. It's also why bad center channel speakers get away with it so easily.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-lN8vWm3m0 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYTlN6wjcvQ for about three minutes starting at 5:26


(posted at risk of sparking yet another blind vs non debate... _if you must_, I'm sure many people would appreciate it in a new thread)


Thanks everyone but sorry, keeping up with posts can turn into a full time job before you know it so I have to go now.


----------



## Mike Lindsey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmalm*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23085794
> 
> 
> To Mike Lindsey,
> 
> 
> I have a setup that uses the same video sources. My only sources are Directv and Oppo 93, using HDMI to a M50v-3d inputs, and I use M50v HDMI-1 output to Runco DHD4 and HDMI up to the V11d projector. I just added an HDMI2 output to RF extender to a Sony monitor. Source switching to Oppo always has a little noisy on sync (video and audio glitches), and sometimes fails to sync but a power cycle would clear. This lack of sync was either no video or video colors are screwed but at least a power cycle would finally clear and sync correctly.
> 
> 
> My rack cables are 1meter (Ultraviolet $100 wireworld) in length and then a 9meter wireworld (HDMI starlight $500), " http://www.wireworldcable.com/categories/hdmi_series6.html " Anthem software upgrades did not solve the problem.
> 
> I did try using Runco DHD4 to do the HDMI switching and ran runco HDMI out to M50v for audio which worked better at switching than the M50v. This hookup never failed to sync. But I wanted the video overlay so I cabled my rack back to M50v for switching and the problems showed up again. Then I upgraded to the latest HDMI 1.4 - 3d board hoping this would help but it did not. The intermittent fail with Oppo got worse. The source switching from Sat to Oppo that would sometimes cause a sync fail whre a power cycle of the M50v now would not clear that fail. A switch back to the Sat (DVR) would also fail until I would power off the Oppo and then I could get Sat to sync some of the time.
> 
> 
> A switch to Sat/DVR always synced faster and cleaner than a switch to Oppo (whose data volume was set higher). Directv is 1080i and Oppo is set to Source Direct. M50v out configs are at 1080p. Anthem suggested using M50v setting for the sources a Studio RGB vs YCBCR 4.2.2, and only using 8bit for color space (YCbCr 4.2.2.) with Deep Color OFF, setting in Oppo. Fails would get worse where more data is transmitted from Oppo.
> 
> 
> The current workaround from Anthem was to switch to the source settings to use THROUGH. This was a little more stable but of course one does not get the nice video screen overlay for status, mode, menu etc. So I switched back and do not use THROUGH, to trying to get M50v to switch and get the video processing. I also did yet another software upgrade to version 3.09 which showed no improvement in sync but it did solve an intermittent case where volume would be too low on power up.
> 
> 
> The wireworld cables are very stiff and this could results in a torque on them that could result in less than optimum contact resistance. I decided to try contact cleaner after about 2 years of the above problems. About 1 week ago I used DeoxIT and DeoxIT Gold and focused on all connections in the rack but did not get up in the huxhbox and do the 1 Runco connection. No complete fails in the last week. Switching still has some noise bursts (video and audio) that I have learned to live with. Switching times are about 6-7 seconds which is down from slower times at day 1 when I got the M50v and was using max data volumes.
> 
> 
> So set your devices to output the least amount of data volume that your willing to live with especially Oppo output setting. Second, make sure the cables are very good, short, and are making good connection. Third, I also added a small fan to blow across the top of the M50v since the area seemed pretty warm one time when it locked up and would not sync even with a power cycle. I only have 1" of space above the M50v for air flow.
> 
> 
> I am the queue for another software upgrade that I hope helps HDMI sync. Maybe someday a Anthem RS232 based HDMI trace function to help debug what and when there is an Anthem HDMI problem.



Rmalm,


I appreciate the reply. I think the main difference is I get no sound or video thru the HDMI inputs of the D2. When this issue first started happening it would require multiple power ups and down of the D2 before I would get sound and picture. After a while I couldn't get it to work at all using the HDMI inputs. I have searched this thread to find anything remotely similar to my issue and came up empty there as well.


Mike


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23087540
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23085177
> 
> 
> What circuitry (in general terms) does a signal go through when the D2v is in Analog-Direct mode? Any active parts in the path(buffers, filters etc) in addition to the volume control?
> 
> 
> The reason i ask, is that i connected by Oppo BDP-105 stereo outs (XLR) directly to my power amplifier(Sunfire 7x400W) and the sound was just simply glorious. It was 'there', a presence i'd never known. But when sent through the D2v (XLR ins and outs), comparativel, it sounds 'muted' and somewhat veiled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone but sorry, keeping up with posts can turn into a full time job before you know it so I have to go now.
Click to expand...

 

Nick:

 

Thank you very much for your participation in this thread. I always enjoy your calm take on things, even in the midst of some wild accusations about you and your company. Hopefully, you come back soon and regail us with some of your sage wisdom again







!

 

- David

 

 

PS ... nice links that let us know that what you see isn't necessarily what you hear.


----------



## rmalm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23087943
> 
> 
> Rmalm,
> 
> 
> I appreciate the reply. I think the main difference is I get no sound or video thru the HDMI inputs of the D2. When this issue first started happening it would require multiple power ups and down of the D2 before I would get sound and picture. After a while I couldn't get it to work at all using the HDMI inputs. I have searched this thread to find anything remotely similar to my issue and came up empty there as well.
> 
> 
> Mike



Mike,


Will I did have almost the same results at one time when I 1st got the M50v. NO source or video with a switch to Oppo, no sync. I only got this solved when I started changing the device setting and Runco settings to transmit a smaller amount of data (1080i was better vs p, and 4:2:2 was better vs 4:4:4 or like you said did several power cycles to get sync. When I started (max data) sync would happen 30% of the time

with a max time of about 20sec before I gave up vs your 0% sync.


Now I sync 99% of the time in 7 sec, with some noisy bursts which I hate when guests are viewing but I have learned to deal with it. I have had 3 lockups that would not clear with power cycle during the last 6 months.


I use Studio RGB instead of YCBCr 4.2.2 Anthen says its easier to sync Studio RBG

For Oppo in Source Direct and config out 1920x1080p24 of M50v and Runco color space 8 bit

For Directv 1080i and M50v out 1920x1080i60 and Runco color space 8 bit


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23087540
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone but sorry, keeping up with posts can turn into a full time job before you know it so I have to go now.



Thanks for all your info.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23087512
> 
> 
> I do but that doesn't mean I can automatically provide the support you're looking for so as requested please stay with the normal channels. Somewhere something must've fallen through the cracks so please contact your rep again. I've done everything I can here and nowhere did I ask for proof, just for a problem description to be forwarded, hopefully with an avoidance of jumping to conclusions. You're saying graphs and levels are low, someone else is saying only graphs not levels, and yet someone else mentioned he's having no problem. This means there's no good reason for anyone to assume that anyone else including us should instantly be able to reproduce your description.



Us trying to prove to anthem something is a exercise in futility and they need to try this for themselves. Jumping to conclusion really does not enter into the picture with the charts I have provided you. I will stay in contact with my rep since he is a gr8 guy and we have other things to discuss. It has been flagged and the only way it can be proven or not is for anthem to conduct their own tests. Someone that says they have no problems does not change that fact or prove anything, it is just background noise. Someone that does not have a meter, does not know what they should be getting from past runs, have not compared their 7 and 8 results, should not enter into this equation. You would definitely need further input for the ones that have no problems to assume anything or let it enter this conversation. I respectfully need anthem to test and show me charts of the same volume levels on the 2 OS. This is because my windows 8 charts do not represent the true level of the test tone received by the mic. That is my case, and obviously than something is not right with my solution and it can not possibly be as it should be. I state this only under the assumption that the true test tone volume comes into play with the overall solution and it is not just some floating random volume levels that are up loaded (or a consistent incorrect value). I would think it must be based on what the SPL meter says and what windows 7 provides which is not what I produce when run in windows 8. If that is the case you now have 2 people that have told you their results are low.


I understand that pushy people such as us can be trying at times and that most of the time we only visit forums because of problems. I truly respect anthem for having this avenue available also to vent and do appreciate what you do for this community. I would like to take this conversation off table and all I ever requested was an acknowledgement of receipt with the normal political response.


Best Regards


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23088357
> 
> 
> Nick:
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for your participation in this thread. I always enjoy your calm take on things, even in the midst of some wild accusations about you and your company. Hopefully, you come back soon and regail us with some of your sage wisdom again !
> 
> 
> - David
> 
> 
> 
> PS ... nice links that let us know that what you see isn't necessarily what you hear.



Would this be pointed at me and if so can you please explain what you mean by "wild accusations" and how you would like me to express myself. If not just take this as a useless post and me increasing my post count.


Regards


----------



## RussVC

The subject of 4k (UltraHD) resolution has been raised in the context of "will Anthem support this", and some comments have implied that there's likely to be few Displays available and the market could go the same way as 3D... so the information below is just, well, information:


DIGITIMES Displays daily news

Monday 18 March 2013

News website: www.digitimes.com 


Ultra LCD TV panel shipments expected to reach 2.6 million in 2013, says DisplaySearch

TFT LCD panel suppliers are forecast to ship 2.6 million Ultra HD (3840 by 2160) LCD TV panels worldwide in 2013, up more than 40-fold from 63,000 in 2012, according to research firm DisplaySearch.


Here is a link to the full story: http://www.digitimes.com/news/a20130318PR206.html?mod=2 



Regards


Russ


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I've been doing quite a bit of testing of the OPPO players with V3.09H on the D2v/3D, and so far I've got only one item to report.


I typically keep Muting set to MIN for the HDMI Inputs. I've seen some indications that Muting MED may be cleaner when using Bitstream input at points where the Bitstream input format changes. It's not clear whether this is due to a change in the Muting algorithm in V3.09h, or just something changing in the OPPO firmware I'm testing, so treat this as just a heads up. This is for HDMI Bitstream audio input.


I've found no gotchas in V3.09h, so it wouldn't surprise me if this gets promoted to "official" release status soon.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve


so what does the HDMI MUting do Bob?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23096020
> 
> 
> so what does the HDMI MUting do Bob?



It's described in the Manual. It's just a brief delay before audio un-mutes whenever the format changes, to give the signal a chance to settle down. Choose MIN, MED, or MAX. Found in Setup > Source Setup for each Source. Default is MED.


The D2v won't un-mute after a format change until it is happy that the input stream is a valid digital audio stream. The Muting setting provides some user control of that.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40240_40#post_23096896
> 
> 
> 
> It's described in the Manual. It's just a brief delay before audio un-mutes whenever the format changes, to give the signal a chance to settle down. Choose MIN, MED, or MAX. Found in Setup > Source Setup for each Source. Default is MED.
> 
> 
> The D2v won't un-mute after a format change until it is happy that the input stream is a valid digital audio stream. The Muting setting provides some user control of that.
> 
> --Bob


thanks, min has been a "min" all along guess that's default.  I switched to Med just for the hell of it since I do have "h" beta.


----------



## Audiolic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23095924
> 
> 
> I've been doing quite a bit of testing of the OPPO players with V3.09H on the D2v/3D, and so far I've got only one item to report.
> 
> 
> I typically keep Muting set to MIN for the HDMI Inputs. I've seen some indications that Muting MED may be cleaner when using Bitstream input at points where the Bitstream input format changes. It's not clear whether this is due to a change in the Muting algorithm in V3.09h, or just something changing in the OPPO firmware I'm testing, so treat this as just a heads up. This is for HDMI Bitstream audio input.
> 
> 
> I've found no gotchas in V3.09h, so it wouldn't surprise me if this gets promoted to "official" release status soon.
> 
> --Bob


Bob, I'm keen to hear how you rate the OPPO players on the D2v/3D, as I have been looking at them as well ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I'm part of the group OPPO has organized for Beta Testing their hardware and firmware. (NOTE: I can only talk about stuff OPPO has already released publicly at any point.) For example, I'm currently testing the new BDP-105 and the older BDP-93 players, and I think they both work very well indeed with the D2v. I don't have a 3D display, so I don't test 3D functionality.


I think the newest OPPO players -- the BDP-103 and BDP-105 are bargains given what they offer. Both still have some issues, but OPPO's track record with firmware fixes is excellent. And their Customer Service is stellar.


I'm a big fan of what ARC does on the D2v, and so even though I test Analog audio from the 105, I think the best match for use with the D2v is the 103 -- with HDMI for audio -- since Analog audio has to be re-digitized anyway, on input into the D2v, if you are going to apply ARC to it. The 105 adds a Headphone output, and several types of digital audio INPUT beyond the HDMI Inputs found on both players, and so some might want to pair the 105 with the D2v anyway, But the MAIN reason to pay the extra for the 105 is because you want to use its more exotic, Analog audio output stage. And again, if you already have a D2v, odds are you want to use ARC on it, so you might as well save the money and get the 103, for HDMI audio, instead. The video portion is the same in both players.

--Bob


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23097206
> 
> 
> I'm a big fan of what ARC does on the D2v, and so even though I test Analog audio from the 105, I think the best match for use with the D2v is the 103 -- with HDMI for audio -- since Analog audio has to be re-digitized anyway, on input into the D2v, if you are going to apply ARC to it. The 105 adds a Headphone output, and several types of digital audio INPUT beyond the HDMI Inputs found on both players, and so some might want to pair the 105 with the D2v anyway, But the MAIN reason to pay the extra for the 105 is because you want to use its more exotic, Analog audio output stage. And again, if you already have a D2v, odds are you want to use ARC on it, so you might as well save the money and get the 103, for HDMI audio, instead. The video portion is the same in both players.
> 
> --Bob



Bit OT here maybe, but what you say makes a lot of sense - I've been trying to figure out how to swing the 105, but maybe the 103 will be fine for me, since there's no doubt I'll be using ARC.


One question though, do the OPPOs output SACD and DVD-A over HDMI? That's been the issue with my current universal player, I had to use the 5.1 analog out.


Thanks,


- Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes. As HDMI LPCM. Sounds great.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40240_40#post_23099288
> 
> 
> ^ Yes. As HDMI LPCM. Sounds great.
> 
> --Bob


Bob, on the 83 did I read where you suggested Bitstream vs LPCM


----------



## Audiolic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23097206
> 
> 
> ^ I'm part of the group OPPO has organized for Beta Testing their hardware and firmware. (NOTE: I can only talk about stuff OPPO has already released publicly at any point.) For example, I'm currently testing the new BDP-105 and the older BDP-93 players, and I think they both work very well indeed with the D2v. I don't have a 3D display, so I don't test 3D functionality.
> 
> 
> I think the newest OPPO players -- the BDP-103 and BDP-105 are bargains given what they offer. Both still have some issues, but OPPO's track record with firmware fixes is excellent. And their Customer Service is stellar.
> 
> 
> I'm a big fan of what ARC does on the D2v, and so even though I test Analog audio from the 105, I think the best match for use with the D2v is the 103 -- with HDMI for audio -- since Analog audio has to be re-digitized anyway, on input into the D2v, if you are going to apply ARC to it. The 105 adds a Headphone output, and several types of digital audio INPUT beyond the HDMI Inputs found on both players, and so some might want to pair the 105 with the D2v anyway, But the MAIN reason to pay the extra for the 105 is because you want to use its more exotic, Analog audio output stage. And again, if you already have a D2v, odds are you want to use ARC on it, so you might as well save the money and get the 103, for HDMI audio, instead. The video portion is the same in both players.
> 
> --Bob


Bob,

Given your comment regarding 3D, can I take it you haven't tested 4K on the OPPO 103 and 105 as yet ?

I realise the D2v (and AVM50v) doesn't support this as yet (given Nick's comments).


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23099950
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Given your comment regarding 3D, can I take it you haven't tested 4K on the OPPO 103 and 105 as yet ?
> 
> I realise the D2v (and AVM50v) doesn't support this as yet (given Nick's comments).


Correct. Different Beta Testers test different things.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23099870
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40240_40#post_23099288
> 
> 
> ^ Yes. As HDMI LPCM. Sounds great.
> 
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> Bob, on the 83 did I read where you suggested Bitstream vs LPCM
Click to expand...


The question was with respect to SACD And DVD-A playback over HDMI into the Anthems. For those, the output will be LPCM. I recommended Bitstream for use with the 83 because there are some less common Bitstream formats where the Anthems do a better job, but the SACD and DVD-A output will be LPCM anyway.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke


Could someone PM me the username and password for the anthem beta site. I used to know them but since i re-installed windows 7, they were erased.

 

*EDIT*: Got it!


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40230#post_23085388
> 
> 
> I asked this question of Anthem CS as I was concerned about audio signal degregation in the D2v. especially the analog inputs.
> 
> ARC does great processing for home theater but stereo analog sounds better.
> 
> 
> Anthem states and they advertise that there is no loss of SQ in their volume control using Analog Direct
> 
> 
> Question: Please describe how the D2v accomplishes the ANALOG input level matching in the Analog input level setup section.
> 
> 
> Answer: The level is being reduced in the pre-amp stage within an op-amp.
> 
> 
> Think 4K is going to go away. ?
> 
> Jeff Meiier of AccuCal was here to calibrate my 4K Sony television and stated he has never before seen a tv with such an outstanding picture.
> 
> He said he was very excited to see something better than anything he has seen before.
> 
> 
> Anthem owners need to be able to pass thru the 4K video or at least have the Anthem units send the correct EDID information over HDMI so the HDMI audio is usable.



Did the concern about audio transparency arise from use of the Input Levels menu or D2 preamp in general? Analog Direct or DSP?


4K may not go away but most people don't even sit close enough to the TV to see 2K. Glad you had it calibrated. Most people would rather buy more pixels than get the right color pixels


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RussVC*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23094020
> 
> 
> The subject of 4k (UltraHD) resolution has been raised in the context of "will Anthem support this", and some comments have implied that there's likely to be few Displays available and the market could go the same way as 3D... so the information below is just, well, information:
> 
> 
> DIGITIMES Displays daily news
> 
> Monday 18 March 2013
> 
> News website: www.digitimes.com
> 
> 
> Ultra LCD TV panel shipments expected to reach 2.6 million in 2013, says DisplaySearch
> 
> TFT LCD panel suppliers are forecast to ship 2.6 million Ultra HD (3840 by 2160) LCD TV panels worldwide in 2013, up more than 40-fold from 63,000 in 2012, according to research firm DisplaySearch.
> 
> 
> Here is a link to the full story: http://www.digitimes.com/news/a20130318PR206.html?mod=2



I think the numbers are optimistic, but here is a chart every prospective 4K buyer should study before buying:

http://s3.carltonbale.com/resolution_chart.html 


They might also want to consult an optometrist, as the chart assumes 20/20 vision, and their wives to see if they will be allowed to place an 80" TV six feet from the sofa!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The problem with analysis like that is that it only looks at one ASPECT of image quality -- perception of detail.


There are at least two other, very other important pieces to 4K. First extra resolution can be traded off against fineness of color steps. That is, by dithering the higher resolution image you can use a more limited, grainier, color palette to simulate a smoother color palette.


Second, higher resolution makes it easier to do different types of video processing without the resulting artifacts being so noticeable.


4K is coming. Believe it. Heck *8K* is coming. The major problem at this point is not cost, nor ability to perceive the difference. It is content delivery. Over the air, shiny disc and streaming are all insufficient at the moment. But that's just now. Just as with HDTV over the air (including cable) will come first, then pre-recorded media (to avoid long download times) -- that will require a new format, with streaming running a distant 3rd. On the way there, FAKE 4K will be the real problem -- i.e., stuff that has the crap compressed out of it, or has the frame rate cut down (or both), to meet the bare minimum quality within the resolution. I.e., can real 4K make it into customer's hands before fake 4K turns them off to it?

--Bob


----------



## Shayne2

Possibly 4 and 8 k are required as they move towards larger displays. This is so a pixel will not be a big blocky square on these larger displays. Is 4k required for a 42" lcd? It would be nice as a computer monitor (which you can drive at this res) but for video viewing I would say no. They will require interpolation between pixels on these huge displays because of the number of sources that will be of this high of resolution will be minimal. My HD tv signal is only 1080i as most are, that does not even do 1080p justice. If the tv signal went to 1080p we would all be happy, how soon it will go to 2160p maybe a while. Bandwidth size etc. as Bob suggest makes them compress even the 1080i to something that may not be what we should call HD. Large displays, in my opinion, is what the larger resolutions are for and if you buy one of these makes sure it has a good scaling chip. I would be more worried about the audio with this component and that should not be a problem for any as of yet.


Regards


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23101875
> 
> 
> Did the concern about audio transparency arise from use of the Input Levels menu or D2 preamp in general? Analog Direct or DSP?
> 
> 
> 4K may not go away but most people don't even sit close enough to the TV to see 2K. Glad you had it calibrated. Most people would rather buy more pixels than get the right color pixels



My concern was that a digital volume control loses bits as the volume is reduced which degrades the sound.

Only a really well designed analog volume control will not degrade the sound enough to cause problems.

I am still not sure the Anthem D2v has such an analog control.


You can not begin to imagine the difference in picture quality

We sit at the same distance as with our 2K set and the difference is unbelievable.

As Jeff points out in his review the 3D is the best he has seen

It is passive 3D and each eye gets to see a really bright 1080p display without any crosstalk, flickering or artifacts

Here is the Sony XBR 84X900 Review Jeff posted 


W. Jeff Meier

AccuCal - Audio & Video Calibration and Consulting
www.accucalhd.com 
www.homecinemaguru.com (blog)

573-480-9664


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23101939
> 
> 
> ^ The problem with analysis like that is that it only looks at one ASPECT of image quality -- perception of detail.
> 
> 
> There are at least two other, very other important pieces to 4K.



Indeed, and on the topic of data rates and storage:

http://nofilmschool.com/2012/05/nhk-finally-shrunk-8k-camera-data-rates/ 


In 2008 I saw an uncompressed 4K Hollywood production at a private showing and the source was a rack of noisy hard drives, like in a server room. Fantastic image but not a package most people would let into their home.


Some history for anyone interested - this experimental 1964 version of HD was "raw" at 800i or more on 2-inch video tape and "compressed" for the rest of the world by filming a TV monitor:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronovision 


The producer had big ideas 30 years ahead of his time, and lost everything. The TAMI show was officially released on DVD a couple of years ago (early rock'n'roll fans, you don't want to miss it) but one can still only imagine what the picture straight off the master looked like.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23103363
> 
> 
> I am still not sure the Anthem D2v has such an analog control.



Volume control is analog. Same with input level control.


A digital control is the equivalent of a scaler.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RussVC*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23094020
> 
> 
> The subject of 4k (UltraHD) resolution has been raised in the context of "will Anthem support this" ... Ultra LCD TV panel shipments expected to reach 2.6 million in 2013, says DisplaySearch



Seems I haven't made my point well enough - the AV controller's role rests on having a 4K *source* to switch. Since the opposite end - displays - keep being mentioned, some perspective on how long things can take to go from early version to household item, and not forgetting that the pace of tech developments keeps increasing:


2001 - first 4K flat panel available for purchase (3840×2400 in this case):

http://www-03.ibm.com/press/us/en/pressrelease/1180.wss 


2002 - first 8K exhibition (7680x4320 in this case):

http://www.nhk.or.jp/digital/en/super_hi/02_super.html 


People at this company saw both at those times, and were awestruck. That was a dozen years ago.


Again, I'm not knocking 4K or 8K, never did. I'm just questioning the timing because many factors are at play and availability of display devices is but one. I still remember reading a magazine article in the early 1980s that predicted HDTV would be available in 1987. As we know it didn't happen so soon. The reason: Bandwidth.


----------



## AVfile

I can confirm that the following bugs I reported are indeed fixed.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40170#post_23064578
> 
> *D2v / AVM 50v Test Firmware V3.09h Now Available on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page*
> 
> 2. False "No Input Signal" status info when receiving 2-channel input - fixed.
> 
> 
> 3. "Last Used" mode preset reverted to "None" under certain conditions - fixed.



Thank you.


----------



## AVfile

Does anyone know the correct setting for the Lumagen Radiance input format when displaying the Anthem SETUP MENU? It is currently set to auto detect the input format. I have the video output format of the Anthem set to pass through and all sources work fine until I bring up the Anthem's setup menu, which appears purple and hazy instead of blue and white. There is also sometimes a deafening blast of noise from the speakers!


Upon exiting the setup menu everything goes back to normal. Is the setup menu forcing its own native output format such as Studio RGB?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23103553
> 
> 
> Volume control is analog. Same with input level control.
> 
> 
> A digital control is the equivalent of a scaler.



Nick

Thank you for clearing this up.

Stew


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23103562
> 
> 
> Seems I haven't made my point well enough - the AV controller's role rests on having a 4K *source* to switch. Since the opposite end - displays - keep being mentioned, some perspective on how long things can take to go from early version to household item, and not forgetting that the pace of tech developments keeps increasing:
> 
> 
> 2001 - first 4K flat panel available for purchase (3840×2400 in this case):
> 
> http://www-03.ibm.com/press/us/en/pressrelease/1180.wss
> 
> 
> 2002 - first 8K exhibition (7680x4320 in this case):
> 
> http://www.nhk.or.jp/digital/en/super_hi/02_super.html
> 
> 
> People at this company saw both at those times, and were awestruck. That was a dozen years ago.
> 
> 
> Again, I'm not knocking 4K or 8K, never did. I'm just questioning the timing because many factors are at play and availability of display devices is but one. I still remember reading a magazine article in the early 1980s that predicted HDTV would be available in 1987. As we know it didn't happen so soon. The reason: Bandwidth.



Sure, but sources that can upscale to UHD already exist (Oppo, Sony players etc.) and these do show a real benefit over 1080p. I have not had the pleasure of watching on an 80" display (yet), but I used an Oppo 105 as the source for my company's prototype 32" UHD monitor, just to see what it looked like, and it was very, very good. Not as good as native UHD content from a PC and high-end graphic card, but not as far away as one might suppose and very obviously much better than native 1080p. As already mentioned by others, the source software must be of the highest quality though.


Regards


Russ


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23103562
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RussVC*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23094020
> 
> 
> The subject of 4k (UltraHD) resolution has been raised in the context of "will Anthem support this" ... Ultra LCD TV panel shipments expected to reach 2.6 million in 2013, says DisplaySearch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems I haven't made my point well enough - *the AV controller's role rests on having a 4K source to switch*. Since the opposite end - displays - keep being mentioned, some perspective on how long things can take to go from early version to household item, and not forgetting that the pace of tech developments keeps increasing:
> 
> 
> 2001 - first 4K flat panel available for purchase (3840×2400 in this case):
> 
> http://www-03.ibm.com/press/us/en/pressrelease/1180.wss
> 
> 
> 2002 - first 8K exhibition (7680x4320 in this case):
> 
> http://www.nhk.or.jp/digital/en/super_hi/02_super.html
> 
> 
> People at this company saw both at those times, and were awestruck. That was a dozen years ago.
> 
> 
> Again, I'm not knocking 4K or 8K, never did. I'm just questioning the timing because many factors are at play and availability of display devices is but one. I still remember reading a magazine article in the early 1980s that predicted HDTV would be available in 1987. As we know it didn't happen so soon. The reason: Bandwidth.
Click to expand...

 

Nick...not only to switch input sources but also to present the output signal in the best format the display is optimized to handle. As you've read so far, 4K displays are already here today and will soon blanket the market for all display technologies. I believe if Anthem modified the current 3D upgrade board to handle 4K, it will please  the tens of thousands of 50v/D2v owners out there like me,knowing that our prized processor will not be made obsolete by the inevitable march of technology.

 

You earlier said you never went for the 4K route because you were too deep into the design of the 3D board as no 4K chips had existed at the time the design started. But can't it be that the same vendors you use for the 3D chipsets sell higher model chipsets that handle 4K datastreams? Maybe they are pin-compatible with the current chipsets you use and all that is needed is to swap out the IC's and upgrade the software to handle/enable 4K features? Ofcourse, I'm assuming the PCB layouts are already highly optimized so no need for a pcb re-spin which could take a really long time...


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23108613
> 
> 
> Nick...not only to switch input sources but also to present the output signal in the best format the display is optimized to handle...
> 
> 
> I'm assuming the PCB...



In other words studio RGB 12-bit, or YCbCr 422 in case the display prefers that. D2v always had those options and more, and another reminder of what the lit always said about upgrades - to be available as technology permits. We do what we can and it's not predictable. As was the case when D2 became D2v, sometimes it's just not feasible though at that time we provided the best alternative (trade-in for as long as we were crediting more for a D2 than the used market).


ahahahaaa http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hrLj8QEAgI


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RussVC*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23107682
> 
> 
> Sure, but sources that can upscale to UHD already exist.



1080p to 4K scaling also exists in all consumer 4K TVs and projectors. Without that they'd be incapable of filling the screen with anything but native res. As I mentioned many times in this thread scaling is relatively easy compared to deinterlacing, and D2v / VXP always did a fine job turning 480i/576i/1080i sources into 1080p. If the 4K TV or projector trips over itself for merely having to scale 1080p to 2160p then it's not worth its salt. (For computer displays it's a different story. Scaling in them is often rudimentary for a good reason - it's normally the video card's job.)


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23103687
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the correct setting for the Lumagen Radiance input format when displaying the Anthem SETUP MENU? It is currently set to auto detect the input format. I have the video output format of the Anthem set to pass through and all sources work fine until I bring up the Anthem's setup menu, which appears purple and hazy instead of blue and white. There is also sometimes a deafening blast of noise from the speakers!



Purple tint usually means it's getting YCbCr but thinks it's getting RGB. If possible, try forcing the Radiance input to "detect" YCbCr 422. Not unusual for "auto" and/or daisy-chaining HDMI devices to lead to trouble, and hopefully this is just a settings fix. Noise blast - yikes. If it continues after the video is sorted out please let tech support know with as many details as possible such as audio input format.


----------



## AVfile

Hi Nick,

I can confirm that the Anthem was forcing out YCbCr 444 when I entered the setup menu. If I explicitly set that as the Input format on the Radiance instead of AUTO the setup menu displays correctly but then I would have to set all my sources to 444 (since I am using passthrough) which is not possible on all my source devices. So I have to use 422 all around.


I could not figure out where the Anthem was getting 444 from, because all my Video Output Configs were set to Studio RGB. I changed them all to 422 and now the setup menu is using 422. It appears to be using the last highlighted Video Output Config at the time of exiting the menu. Does this make sense? Again I was not expecting these configs to be relevant as I'm not using them any more and "Through" is selected for all the sources in question. Finally I set all the other sources I'm not using (AUX, TAPE, etc.) to "Last" so maybe the setup menu takes after one of those?


EDIT: Cycled power on the AVM and 444 is back, 720p in fact, which is none of my video configs. Still a problem.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23109135
> 
> 
> 1080p to 4K scaling also exists in all consumer 4K TVs and projectors. Without that they'd be incapable of filling the screen with anything but native res. As I mentioned many times in this thread scaling is relatively easy compared to deinterlacing, and D2v / VXP always did a fine job turning 480i/576i/1080i sources into 1080p. If the 4K TV or projector trips over itself for merely having to scale 1080p to 2160p then it's not worth its salt. (For computer displays it's a different story. Scaling in them is often rudimentary for a good reason - it's normally the video card's job.)



Nick

That is a very poor argument. All the new 4k sets excel at upscaling and deinterlacing.

I can assure you that the Sony 4K television does an excellent job at scaling. It is almost impossible to tell if a source being fed to the Sony 4K display is 1080 or 2160.

The new 4K sets have exceptionally powerful internal computing power.


----------



## AVfile

That's why he's saying the Anthem doesn't need to upscale it! Just ask DR HANKZ


I agree with you that 4K passthrough would be useful, however the industry has accounted for that as source devices are getting dual HDMI outputs since 3D came along (your temporary Sony media server notwithstanding). I think most people at this level will have a $45 remote capable of handling the extra button press for switching.


Back to the original question, no I would not be willing to pay another $10k just to have all the switching and processing in one box. It would never be as versatile as the separate VP I'm using now anyway.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23110214
> 
> 
> Hi Nick,
> 
> I can confirm that the Anthem was forcing out YCbCr 444 when I entered the setup menu. If I explicitly set that as the Input format on the Radiance instead of AUTO the setup menu displays correctly but then I would have to set all my sources to 444 (since I am using passthrough) which is not possible on all my source devices. So I have to use 422 all around.
> 
> 
> I could not figure out where the Anthem was getting 444 from, because all my Video Output Configs were set to Studio RGB. I changed them all to 422 and now the setup menu is using 422. It appears to be using the last highlighted Video Output Config at the time of exiting the menu. Does this make sense? Again I was not expecting these configs to be relevant as I'm not using them any more and "Through" is selected for all the sources in question. Finally I set all the other sources I'm not using (AUX, TAPE, etc.) to "Last" so maybe the setup menu takes after one of those?
> 
> 
> EDIT: Cycled power on the AVM and 444 is back, 720p in fact, which is none of my video configs. Still a problem.



Sounds like you may have found a side effect (Bug) from using THROUGH. The Setup menu is an internally generated S-video source (thus 480i YPbPr content) which is paired with the last used audio source for its audio -- i.e., you hear the audio of whatever Source was playing when you go into Setup.


At a guess, it ALSO picks the Video Output Configuration choice associated with that Source as well. I suspect that screws up if you happen to be on a Source set to use THROUGH when you enter Setup. Keep in mind that you can change the Video Output Configuration choice on-the-fly. Going in and editing any of the Video Output Configuration choices I believe does that on-the-fly change as well -- i.e., you are switched to the last edited Configuration. Also keep in mind that going into or out of Setup is a Source change. Those last two sentences can make it confusing to test this stuff -- for example that may explain why it seemed to be tracking the last Video Configuration you edited.


But I bet if you tried Setup using a source which was not set to Through things would work "normally" -- i.e., Setup would use the Video Output Configuration choice of that Source (something other than Through).


Does that seem consistent with what you are seeing?

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23110278
> 
> 
> All the new 4k sets excel at upscaling and deinterlacing.



We're finally on the same page! What AVfile said I said, and also that proliferation of 4K sources relies on gigabit internet (it's in Kansas, literally) or Gamma-ray or whatever the next recorded format will be called. FCC wants to see gigabit across the US by 2015, so that's one way of gazing into the 4K crystal ball. If for whatever other reason a prepro that supports 4K switching is desired *now* then Anthem says sorry, not at this time but thanks for your feedback just the same.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23110214
> 
> 
> I could not figure out where the Anthem was getting 444 from, because all my Video Output Configs were set to Studio RGB.



"Last" is used behind the scenes to minimize sync time. The catch is that when powering on to a Through source there is no "Last" because settings were never initialized, so they stay at default. For whatever reason, this results in an incompatibility and purple screen though without a Radiance at hand we may never be sure why. Regardless, the simplest solution (and that doesn't mean it's simple - potential side effects come into play and unknowns always need to be hunted down) might be a motherboard software mod to force an initialization at every power-on according to video config 1.


Could you check back with Andrew in 2-3 weeks? In the mean time could you configure an unused source, such as Aux, to switch to before entering the menu? (Assign a video config with any output format that works instead of Through.)


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23110278
> 
> 
> Nick
> 
> That is a very poor argument. All the new 4k sets excel at upscaling and deinterlacing.
> 
> I can assure you that the Sony 4K television does an excellent job at scaling. It is almost impossible to tell if a source being fed to the Sony 4K display is 1080 or 2160.
> 
> The new 4K sets have exceptionally powerful internal computing power.



I don't know how to interpret that, the scaling has either gotten extremelly good or it is very hard to tell the difference between 4K material and 1080p material. I think I'll go with the latter based on the demos I've sat in.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23110665
> 
> 
> At a guess, it ALSO picks the Video Output Configuration choice associated with that Source as well. I suspect that screws up if you happen to be on a Source set to use THROUGH when you enter Setup. Keep in mind that you can change the Video Output Configuration choice on-the-fly. Going in and editing any of the Video Output Configuration choices I believe does that on-the-fly change as well -- i.e., you are switched to the last edited Configuration. Also keep in mind that going into or out of Setup is a Source change. Those last two sentences can make it confusing to test this stuff -- for example that may explain why it seemed to be tracking the last Video Configuration you edited.
> 
> 
> But I bet if you tried Setup using a source which was not set to Through things would work "normally" -- i.e., Setup would use the Video Output Configuration choice of that Source (something other than Through).
> 
> 
> Does that seem consistent with what you are seeing?
> 
> --Bob



Yes, Setup is using the last Video Config that was used since power-up. By the way you don't have to edit the Video Config, just highlighting it in the first menu is enough to make it switch to that Video Config (which can get annoying as you can imagine). However there is NO "last used" Video Config in memory if you power-up to a source using "Through" mode. In this case Setup picks 720p 4:4:4 which causes a problem with the Radiance.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23111264
> 
> 
> "Last" is used behind the scenes to minimize sync time. The catch is that when powering on to a Through source there is no "Last" because settings were never initialized, so they stay at default. For whatever reason, this results in an incompatibility and purple screen though without a Radiance at hand we may never be sure why. Regardless, the simplest solution (and that doesn't mean it's simple - potential side effects come into play and unknowns always need to be hunted down) might be a motherboard software mod to force an initialization at every power-on according to video config 1.
> 
> 
> Could you check back with Andrew in 2-3 weeks? In the mean time could you configure an unused source, such as Aux, to switch to before entering the menu? (Assign a video config with any output format that works instead of Through.)



OK will do. I've yet to program an aftermarket remote for use with the AVM. Would there be any problem learning a macro that switches to AUX, enters Setup (long sequence) and another to exit the menu and return to the previous source?


----------



## Mike Lindsey

Anybody know where the original 15' RS-232E ARC extension cable can be purchased, and do you have a link for it? The cable I was given when I purchased my used D2 is a 50' extension cable, and it does not work with the recommended RS-232 to USB adaptor.


Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike Lindsey*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23111944
> 
> 
> Anybody know where the original 15' RS-232E ARC extension cable can be purchased



Tech support but options like this save money when shipping US to US:

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Serial-Extension-Cable-Thumbscrews/dp/B000067REA 

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10212 


No matter where it comes from, any DB-9 M/F extension (printer) serial cable should work. Not M/M, F/F, or modem.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23111921
> 
> 
> OK will do. I've yet to program an aftermarket remote for use with the AVM. Would there be any problem learning a macro that switches to AUX, enters Setup (long sequence) and another to exit the menu and return to the previous source?



Depends on the remote - each has its own programming instructions and electronics but Aux -> split-second pause -> Sub/LFE (4-5s) should be trivial if it can long-press volume up/down, a common-as-it-gets function.


btw none of this is meant to imply you _need_ an aftermarket remote


----------



## drstorm

Hi !


I need some help on my avm50v2. Since i upgraded ther firmware to 3.09 (even 3.09h), i'm not able to use anymore the hdmi 4 port (not image, no sound and not even detected by the source)(i try oppo, ps3 and xpressvu). On hdmi 2 and 3 port if i connect my oppo 93 (with y:4:4:4 36bit (highest hdmi setting)) and even with a 1 foot cable, i have snow on screen when it play 60p but not a 24p. If i downgrade the firmware to 2.10, i can reuse the hdmi4 port and no snow on picture with the other port. But i hate 2.10 because i experienced a lot of pink screen, low volume bug and handshake problem (then i need to close the avm or switch to another source and came back to cure the handshake problem). Is someone experience this problem and cured the problem ? I aldready email Anthem but they have nothing more to say that they will have a new firmware soon....


thank you !


p.s. Hardware : ps3 on hdmi1, oppo 93 on hdmi2, xpressvu on hdmi3, panasonic pt-ae4000 on hdmi out.


----------



## Mike Lindsey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23112123
> 
> 
> Tech support but options like this save money when shipping US to US:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Serial-Extension-Cable-Thumbscrews/dp/B000067REA
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10212
> 
> 
> No matter where it comes from, any DB-9 M/F extension (printer) serial cable should work. Not M/M, F/F, or modem.



Thanks Nick!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drstorm*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23112422
> 
> 
> Hi !
> 
> 
> I need some help on my avm50v2. Since i upgraded ther firmware to 3.09 (even 3.09h), i'm not able to use anymore the hdmi 4 port (not image, no sound and not even detected by the source)(i try oppo, ps3 and xpressvu). On hdmi 2 and 3 port if i connect my oppo 93 (with y:4:4:4 36bit (highest hdmi setting)) and even with a 1 foot cable, i have snow on screen when it play 60p but not a 24p. If i downgrade the firmware to 2.10, i can reuse the hdmi4 port and no snow on picture with the other port. But i hate 2.10 because i experienced a lot of pink screen, low volume bug and handshake problem (then i need to close the avm or switch to another source and came back to cure the handshake problem). Is someone experience this problem and cured the problem ? I aldready email Anthem but they have nothing more to say that they will have a new firmware soon....
> 
> 
> thank you !
> 
> 
> p.s. Hardware : ps3 on hdmi1, oppo 93 on hdmi2, xpressvu on hdmi3, panasonic pt-ae4000 on hdmi out.



First, make sure all your HDMI cables -- from Source devices to the Anthem, and from Anthem to the Display -- are marketed as "High Speed" or "For 1080p".


Second, avoid short HDMI cables when connecting devices. This may not fix your problem, but as a start, replace your 1 foot HDMI interconnect cable with a 6 foot (2 meter) cable. It's not commonly talked about, but short HDMI cables can give just as much grief as long ones. 6-foot is kind of the optimum length for an HDMI cable between any two devices.


For testing HDMI 4 input, temporarily set your OPPO 93 to 480p (not 480i) output resolution with explicit settings (not AUTO) for Color Space YCbCr 4:4:4, HDMI Audio LPCM, HDMI CEC OFF, 3D Mode OFF and see if that works for input 4 (with a "normal" length HDMI cable such as the one provided by OPPO with the player). If that works, then start changing one at a time back to your desired settings to see when the problem re-appears. 480p is the "simplest" signal for HDMI to carry.


If you are using the new "THROUGH" setting in your Setup > Source Setup definitions, instead of picking one of your defined Video Output Configurations, that may be the problem. Test by changing your Source Definitions back to using Video Output Configuration 1 (or whatever your "normal" choice is). If THAT works then that suggests your display is having trouble tracking the video format changes passing through the Anthem when THROUGH is used.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23111227
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23110278
> 
> 
> All the new 4k sets excel at upscaling and deinterlacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're finally on the same page! What AVfile said I said, and also that proliferation of 4K sources relies on gigabit internet (it's in Kansas, literally) or Gamma-ray or whatever the next recorded format will be called. FCC wants to see gigabit across the US by 2015, so that's one way of gazing into the 4K crystal ball. If for whatever other reason a prepro that supports 4K switching is desired **now** then Anthem says sorry, not at this time but thanks for your feedback just the same.
Click to expand...

 

Nick:

 

OK, we understand that 2013 will not see a 4K product(upgrade board or pre-pro) from Anthem but what about 2014 or even 2015? Give us faithful 50v/D2v owners *some hope* that our beloved pre-pros will not become obsolete within 5 years when when 4K displays are standard and possible 4K sources on the market. That is all we are asking and trying to say in these discussions.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ When I used to respond to requests for forward looking statements preceding announcements and press releases I always made it very clear that nothing is certain until it's in a box and ready to ship. The words ballpark, estimate, guesstimate, preliminary, tentative, maybe, or subject to change without notice came with every answer.


Regardless, the result always seemed to be "where's the xyz that Anthem promised a year ago?" and I'd have to come here to set the record straight. Not fun, and I'm not going there again except to say we just do what we can as technology allows. The entire industry can't predict its future (look at the shape it's in), so what more can one person do? Sorry, that's all.


----------



## terryshep

Hi just bought not here yet but can I use sennheiser hd 650 headphones with my d2dv 3d with out an amp ok or do I need a headphone amp as well


----------



## dmusoke


^ If the sound from the Anthem headphone amplifer is powerful or musical enough for you, then no need to buy another external amplifier.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *terryshep*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23116314
> 
> 
> Hi just bought not here yet but can I use sennheiser hd 650 headphones with my d2dv 3d with out an amp ok or do I need a headphone amp as well



Yes, those headphones work just fine with the headphone jack built into the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## CharlieU

The headphone amp built in to the Anthem doesn't get much mention, but it's pretty darn good. The one on my 50v can even drive my HiFiMAN HE-500 adequately. None of the clipping I get with other built-in headphone amps with these phones.


----------



## drstorm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23113815
> 
> 
> First, make sure all your HDMI cables -- from Source devices to the Anthem, and from Anthem to the Display -- are marketed as "High Speed" or "For 1080p".
> 
> 
> Second, avoid short HDMI cables when connecting devices. This may not fix your problem, but as a start, replace your 1 foot HDMI interconnect cable with a 6 foot (2 meter) cable. It's not commonly talked about, but short HDMI cables can give just as much grief as long ones. 6-foot is kind of the optimum length for an HDMI cable between any two devices.
> 
> 
> For testing HDMI 4 input, temporarily set your OPPO 93 to 480p (not 480i) output resolution with explicit settings (not AUTO) for Color Space YCbCr 4:4:4, HDMI Audio LPCM, HDMI CEC OFF, 3D Mode OFF and see if that works for input 4 (with a "normal" length HDMI cable such as the one provided by OPPO with the player). If that works, then start changing one at a time back to your desired settings to see when the problem re-appears. 480p is the "simplest" signal for HDMI to carry.
> 
> 
> If you are using the new "THROUGH" setting in your Setup > Source Setup definitions, instead of picking one of your defined Video Output Configurations, that may be the problem. Test by changing your Source Definitions back to using Video Output Configuration 1 (or whatever your "normal" choice is). If THAT works then that suggests your display is having trouble tracking the video format changes passing through the Anthem when THROUGH is used.
> 
> --Bob



1 - thank for the reply!

2- i tried 1 foot cable, 3 foots cable and also 6 foots cable, monoprice, oppo, monster.... not change in snow..... all port

3- i forgot that the hdmi4 port not work on 3.09f but now work on 3.09h...

4- Snowed image appear on every hdmi input, only went 1080p, y4:4:4 36bit 60p, if i down size a little (1080p, y4:4:4 36bit 24p or 1080p, y4:4:2 36bit 60p or ...) the bit rate then no snow.

5- if i connect oppo directly to the projector in 1080p, y4:4:4 36bit 60p then no snow also


The avm50 is then too sensitive in 3.09 but way better for switching and all the other bug! I dont have any other idea.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drstorm*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23119323
> 
> 
> 1 - thank for the reply!
> 
> 2- i tried 1 foot cable, 3 foots cable and also 6 foots cable, monoprice, oppo, monster.... not change in snow..... all port
> 
> 3- i forgot that the hdmi4 port not work on 3.09f but now work on 3.09h...
> 
> 4- Snowed image appear on every hdmi input, only went 1080p, y4:4:4 36bit 60p, if i down size a little (1080p, y4:4:4 36bit 24p or 1080p, y4:4:2 36bit 60p or ...) the bit rate then no snow.
> 
> 5- if i connect oppo directly to the projector in 1080p, y4:4:4 36bit 60p then no snow also
> 
> 
> The avm50 is then too sensitive in 3.09 but way better for switching and all the other bug! I dont have any other idea.



Actually 1080p/60 YCbCr 4:4:4 36-bit and 1080p/60 YCbCr 4:2:2 36-bit are the same data rate. If you are having no problem with 4:2:2, then that may be your workaround right there. Although you should check with a calibration disc to see if you can spot any problems, whether the conversion from 4:2:2 to 4:4:4 happens in the player, the Anthem, or in your display *SHOULD* make no difference. Using 4:2:2 out out of the Anthem simply means the display does that conversion.


In any event, what you describe certainly sounds like a bandwidth problem in the HDMI handshake.


How long is the cable from the Anthem to your display? Do you have anything else in the HDMI path other than a single cable from each Source to the Anthem and a single cable from the Anthem to the display? Any cables attached one to the next (as with short, "port saver" cables)? Any wall plates, adapters, HDMI switches, Darblet or other gizmos in the HDMI path either to the Anthem or from the Anthem to the display? Wall plates in particular are notorious for having problems with 1080p.


Are you using the original hardware, or do you have the recent, 3D pass-through, hardware upgrade installed?


(Is your OPPO one of the newer players with dual HDMI outputs? Are you testing this with ONLY the HDMI 1 output of the OPPO cabled up? If you are using Dual HDMI cabling from the OPPO -- e.g., one to the display and one to the Anthem, then there are other checks that need to be tried.)


There is one other thing I can think to try. In the Video Output Configuration menu you will wind a SYNC setting with the choices of Normal and Inverted. Normal is the default. Some displays are peculiar in that they need different Sync settings according to the type of input you are feeding them. For example Normal sync for 1080p input to the display but Inverted for 720p input. It is a long shot, but it would be worth trying both choices of Sync to see if 1080p YCbCr 4:4:4 36-bit works better with one of them. The *WRONG* Sync setting will show either as no picture (black screen or noise) or as a picture that is shifted horizontally by a significant amount. If you have previously found you had to make a significant adjustment of Horizontal Position in the controls in your display to get the picture centered, it could be you've been using the wrong Sync setting from the Anthem given your display. Note that you can use the Front Panel display to view and change this menu if your lose video when checking this. Just remember to confirm changes before exiting the menu.


You should also get in touch with Anthem Tech Support. Tell them the model of your display and that the problem happens with 4:4:4 but not with 4:2:2 -- and also that 4:4:4 direct from the OPPO works without problem. They may have some history with that model of display.

--Bob


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23109135
> 
> 
> 1080p to 4K scaling also exists in all consumer 4K TVs and projectors. Without that they'd be incapable of filling the screen with anything but native res. As I mentioned many times in this thread scaling is relatively easy compared to deinterlacing, and D2v / VXP always did a fine job turning 480i/576i/1080i sources into 1080p. If the 4K TV or projector trips over itself for merely having to scale 1080p to 2160p then it's not worth its salt. (For computer displays it's a different story. Scaling in them is often rudimentary for a good reason - it's normally the video card's job.)



And, of course, we can connect directly to that TV/PJ... and just ignore the "v" element of the D2v, seems like a-hell-of-a-waste of a large chunk of the available tech and you are effectively demoting the D2v to an audio only processor.

"If the 4K TV or projector trips over itself for merely having to scale 1080p to 2160p then it's not worth its salt.", the same argument could be applied to my $10k+ D2v: if it can't manage to merely pass-through 4k video and extract the audio content then maybe it's not worth it's salt!


Regards


Russ


----------



## esander3

I fail to see how you can fault your D2v for not being compliant to 4K. I am not faulting my AVM-50 (non-V) for not managing 3D pass thru, High Def bitstreaming, or 8 channel PCM. If it were magically able to add these features that came out long after I purchased it I would be quite happy, but I cannot expect these new features just because I want them. The standards did not exist when my hardware was designed and built.


I was able to upgrade to add ARC and was ecstatic...


I am sure that there are a lot of standalone scalers available used that were quite expensive when they came out, but now have little to no value. Did you really think that the video portion of your D2v would be future proof indefinitely?


If you no longer want your D2v and feel that it is now worthless, I would be happy to send you my address and pay for shipping...



Ed


----------



## drstorm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23121233
> 
> 
> Actually 1080p/60 YCbCr 4:4:4 36-bit and 1080p/60 YCbCr 4:2:2 36-bit are the same data rate. If you are having no problem with 4:2:2, then that may be your workaround right there. Although you should check with a calibration disc to see if you can spot any problems, whether the conversion from 4:2:2 to 4:4:4 happens in the player, the Anthem, or in your display *SHOULD* make no difference. Using 4:2:2 out out of the Anthem simply means the display does that conversion.
> 
> 
> In any event, what you describe certainly sounds like a bandwidth problem in the HDMI handshake.
> 
> 
> How long is the cable from the Anthem to your display? Do you have anything else in the HDMI path other than a single cable from each Source to the Anthem and a single cable from the Anthem to the display? Any cables attached one to the next (as with short, "port saver" cables)? Any wall plates, adapters, HDMI switches, Darblet or other gizmos in the HDMI path either to the Anthem or from the Anthem to the display? Wall plates in particular are notorious for having problems with 1080p.
> 
> 
> Are you using the original hardware, or do you have the recent, 3D pass-through, hardware upgrade installed?
> 
> 
> (Is your OPPO one of the newer players with dual HDMI outputs? Are you testing this with ONLY the HDMI 1 output of the OPPO cabled up? If you are using Dual HDMI cabling from the OPPO -- e.g., one to the display and one to the Anthem, then there are other checks that need to be tried.)
> 
> 
> There is one other thing I can think to try. In the Video Output Configuration menu you will wind a SYNC setting with the choices of Normal and Inverted. Normal is the default. Some displays are peculiar in that they need different Sync settings according to the type of input you are feeding them. For example Normal sync for 1080p input to the display but Inverted for 720p input. It is a long shot, but it would be worth trying both choices of Sync to see if 1080p YCbCr 4:4:4 36-bit works better with one of them. The *WRONG* Sync setting will show either as no picture (black screen or noise) or as a picture that is shifted horizontally by a significant amount. If you have previously found you had to make a significant adjustment of Horizontal Position in the controls in your display to get the picture centered, it could be you've been using the wrong Sync setting from the Anthem given your display. Note that you can use the Front Panel display to view and change this menu if your lose video when checking this. Just remember to confirm changes before exiting the menu.
> 
> 
> You should also get in touch with Anthem Tech Support. Tell them the model of your display and that the problem happens with 4:4:4 but not with 4:2:2 -- and also that 4:4:4 direct from the OPPO works without problem. They may have some history with that model of display.
> 
> --Bob



1 - i have in my mind that Y:4:4:4 contain more info then Y:4:2:2, then i will use Y:4:2:2 the time that anthem correct it with a new firmware.

2 - Original AVM50V2, oppo bdp93 with 2 hdmi ouput (only hdmi1 used) (I tried hdmi1 and hdmi2 = same thing)

3 - 45 foots 22awg shielded from then avm50 to the projector (with or without port saver doest do anything)

4 - Sync change anything....

4 - already in touch with Andrew at anthem, but he tell me that a new firmware will be soon avaible to correct the problem....


I will wait fort the new firmware... But i'M curious if someone else have the same problem, combo oppo93 and avm50v is popular...


Thanks a lot ! I wiil keep you updated!


----------



## AVfile

Why use 36-bit? If you don't need Deep Color support, it's just pushing things.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drstorm*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23122507
> 
> 
> 1 - i have in my mind that Y:4:4:4 contain more info then Y:4:2:2, then i will use Y:4:2:2 the time that anthem correct it with a new firmware.
> 
> 2 - Original AVM50V2, oppo bdp93 with 2 hdmi ouput (only hdmi1 used) (I tried hdmi1 and hdmi2 = same thing)
> 
> 3 - 45 foots 22awg shielded from then avm50 to the projector (with or without port saver doest do anything)
> 
> 4 - Sync change anything....
> 
> 4 - already in touch with Andrew at anthem, but he tell me that a new firmware will be soon avaible to correct the problem....
> 
> 
> I will wait fort the new firmware... But i'M curious if someone else have the same problem, combo oppo93 and avm50v is popular...
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot ! I wiil keep you updated!



I would be suspicious of a 45 Foot HDMI cable especially at 36 bit.

Here is what the Blue Jeans cable people say about it.

How Long Should a HDMI Cable Be ?


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40290#post_23118533
> 
> 
> The headphone amp built in to the Anthem doesn't get much mention, but it's pretty darn good. The one on my 50v can even drive my HiFiMAN HE-500 adequately. None of the clipping I get with other built-in headphone amps with these phones.



Since we're on the topic of the headphone amp.... I have tried the headphone amp on my AVM50v and it has *a lot of hiss* through my Sennheiser HD555 headphones. I've driven these headphones with my iPad and iPhone and never experienced the hiss before like I did with my Anthem. I can't imagine that the hissing is normal--especially from a digital source. I don't hear the hiss through my main speakers so it's confined to the headphone out only?! Any thoughts on why that might be the case or where to look for issues?


----------



## drstorm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23123915
> 
> 
> I would be suspicious of a 45 Foot HDMI cable especially at 36 bit.
> 
> Here is what the Blue Jeans cable people say about it.
> 
> How Long Should a HDMI Cable Be ?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23122560
> 
> 
> Why use 36-bit? If you don't need Deep Color support, it's just pushing things.



1- Not the 45 foots hdmi the problem. Connected directly from the oppo to the projector with the same cable, i have no noise ( with same parameter) . I also tried 6 feet hdmi between the anthem and the projector then i have noise.... I never had problem in 2.10 (except all the know bugs). it started with 3.09.


2- All my equipment use deep color 36bit then why not use it


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23122048
> 
> 
> I fail to see how you can fault your D2v for not being compliant to 4K. I am not faulting my AVM-50 (non-V) for not managing 3D pass thru, High Def bitstreaming, or 8 channel PCM. If it were magically able to add these features that came out long after I purchased it I would be quite happy, but I cannot expect these new features just because I want them. The standards did not exist when my hardware was designed and built.
> 
> 
> I was able to upgrade to add ARC and was ecstatic...
> 
> 
> I am sure that there are a lot of standalone scalers available used that were quite expensive when they came out, but now have little to no value. Did you really think that the video portion of your D2v would be future proof indefinitely?
> 
> 
> If you no longer want your D2v and feel that it is now worthless, I would be happy to send you my address and pay for shipping...
> 
> 
> 
> Ed



If you look at my earlier post I referred to the Tag McLaren Audio processor (AV192r) that I was fortunate enough to own. That device was way ahead of the field, was the first to incorporate REQ, and was highly up-gradable with both SW and HW, with a clearly defined upgrade path into the future. TMA pulled-out of the A/V market (after delivering most of their commitments and upgrades) and I was hit with upgraditis some years later, mainly driven by the desire to incorporate HDMI sources... I had hoped that Anthem would provide a similar upgrade path, at least with the programmable/up-gradable FW/SW and "my" Reseller implied that this would be the case based upon his previous experience and the fact that Anthem had provided previous SW/HW upgrades. I should have known that something was amiss when the Reseller knew nothing about installing the D2v, in fact I knew far more than they did and ended-up doing it myself. The up-shot is that I now find that in the three years I have had this device there have only been bug fixes and no real FW/SW upgrades. The only HW upgrade is a bypass for the integrated video processor and even that is hugely expensive in the UK (nearly $1k) and very limited. So, yes, I am disappointed in that a large chunk of my reason for purchase has proved valueless. I am also a little frustrated as I really have no one to blame but myself for listening to BS, although in my defense I referenced this forum and it tended to support the possibility of future upgrades albeit by historical implication rather than direct statements.


In terms of audio performance, I am happy. But, I would entertain any reasonable offer that would enable me to go an alternative route... that does not include dumping the unit...unless you will pay $10k for shipping


Regards


Russ


----------



## stanger89

What makes you think there won't be an upgrade path? Anthem's history has shown that they very much do maintain an upgrade path for users. I bought an AVM20V2 a long time ago and they released a software upgrade to support DPLIIx. Later they offered an upgrade for the AVM20 V2 to AVM50 spec. I later bought an AVM50V and later still received a (free in my case







, I feel for you outside NA guys) upgrade to AVM50V 3D spec.


So Anthem's track record with upgrades is clear IMO. I have no reason to doubt they have a 4k solution in the works, and I all I see here (granted I haven't been following closely) is a rather wise IMO, refusal to commit publicly on the matter. 2014 or 2015 is a very long way out in this market and a lot can happen then. I've seen products fall apart in less time than that and have lots of customers very disappointed/unhappy for not getting what they thought they were promised by "loose lips" on the internet.


I don't see how you can say a large chunk of your purchase is valueless, and I really don't know what you expect, most (smart/small) companies don't promise things until they're actually ready to ship them.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23124267
> 
> 
> Since we're on the topic of the headphone amp.... I have tried the headphone amp on my AVM50v and it has *a lot of hiss* through my Sennheiser HD555 headphones. I've driven these headphones with my iPad and iPhone and never experienced the hiss before like I did with my Anthem. I can't imagine that the hissing is normal--especially from a digital source. I don't hear the hiss through my main speakers so it's confined to the headphone out only?! Any thoughts on why that might be the case or where to look for issues?



I haven't tried my HD555's. I've used my Denon D2000 and HiFiMAN HE-500 with no hint of hiss. Have you switched sources? I would also change to a source where nothing is connected to see if the hiss still exists. When I get a chance, I'll dig out my HD555's and try them. I think they have the highest sensitivity of the phones I own.


----------



## AVfile


Read Me - v3.xx Upgrades.txt 15k .txt file


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drstorm*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23124762
> 
> 
> 
> 1- Not the 45 foots hdmi the problem. Connected directly from the oppo to the projector with the same cable, i have no noise ( with same parameter) . I also tried 6 feet hdmi between the anthem and the projector then i have noise.... I never had problem in 2.10 (except all the know bugs). it started with 3.09.
> 
> 
> 2- All my equipment use deep color 36bit then why not use it



1 - I don't think you will see much difference between 3.09 and 3.10 for video bugs. Not sure what Andrew told you but I only recall audio-related fixes going into the beta releases since 3.09 -- the release notes have been posted here by Bob (now attached) if you want to check.


2 - Because it's problematic, and unless you have deep color source material (another industry flop?) it's just forcing more up-conversion. If turning it off fixes the problem then you have your answer (sorry to say but that's how the story goes around here).


----------



## drstorm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23126386
> 
> Read Me - v3.xx Upgrades.txt 15k .txt file
> 
> 1 - I don't think you will see much difference between 3.09 and 3.10 for video bugs. Not sure what Andrew told you but I only recall audio-related fixes going into the beta releases since 3.09 -- the release notes have been posted here by Bob (now attached) if you want to check.
> 
> 
> 2 - Because it's problematic, and unless you have deep color source material (another industry flop?) it's just forcing more up-conversion. If turning it off fixes the problem then you have your answer (sorry to say but that's how the story goes around here).



1 - 3.10 is now avalaible ?


2-








your right ! the only 36 bits source material of the oppo is the menu. I hate to turn something of because it doesn't work like it should. Anyway, it work y4:2:2 in 36bit 1080p60.


I'm wondering if i'm the only one with that problem ? I so, why my avm50v do act like this ?!!?!


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23126180
> 
> 
> I haven't tried my HD555's. I've used my Denon D2000 and HiFiMAN HE-500 with no hint of hiss. Have you switched sources? I would also change to a source where nothing is connected to see if the hiss still exists. When I get a chance, I'll dig out my HD555's and try them. I think they have the highest sensitivity of the phones I own.



Thanks and I was wondering if the sensitivity of the headphones was related to the hiss... I'll try a few sources and see what's what and report back.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23127446
> 
> 
> Thanks and I was wondering if the sensitivity of the headphones was related to the hiss... I'll try a few sources and see what's what and report back.


Yes


Yes, the hiss is there regardless of the source and it's really noticeable. It's there even if I turn the volume down to -60 on the headphones. The hiss is lessened as I switch sources, but then when the source kicks in, the hiss jacks up. Even in 2-channel balanced input, the hiss kicks up with nothing playing. Taking my headphones off makes me feel like I'm in a library. The difference is literally that dramatic with the hiss. Like I said, I don't know if it has something to do with the impedance of the headphones.


----------



## gerard1meehan

Any word when 3.10 will be an officail relese?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23127829
> 
> 
> Any word when 3.10 will be an officail relese?



Ask Again Later; The Future is Hazy


There have been a couple posts here suggesting Anthem Tech Support thinks at least one more Beta is coming first, but just from my testing, it looks like V3.09h could become "official" V3.10 any time now.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23127475
> 
> 
> The hiss is lessened as I switch sources, but then when the source kicks in, the hiss jacks up.



I can hear this too when I stand close to my speakers. It's not the quietest processor on the market.


----------



## camdenx

Hello all...


I'm hoping some of you D2V enthusiasts can shed some light on a problem I'm having with video on a used D2V I just acquired. The unit has the latest 3.09 firmware and was very clean, purchased from a highly reputable seller.


I'm seeing video artifacts (mainly horizontal lines but I've also seen what appears to be pixel noise) generated by the D2V most noticeably around the edges of graphical images and text overlayed on video.


The artifacts also manifest themselves in regular video around the edges of clothes and people especially when they are moving. Basically, the HDMI (1 or 2) output of the D2V looks terrible from any source.


When I connect my cable box (HDMI) direct to the TV using the same cable that was running from the D2V, no artifacts - the image is completely clean. So it's not cabling, not my TV, and not the sources. The problem tracks to the D2V.


The pic of my TV screen at this link shows the problem. If you download the original image and zoom in you can see the artifacts easily.


Notice the horizontal lines to the right of the red box, around and inside the 'p', to the left of the blue box, to the left of the 'e' in "Gopher" and to the right of the 'e' in "Defies", around the '#' sign, and embedded in the letters in the text of the scroll box in the bottom of the screen.


These artifacts are generated by the D2V from all HDMI sources I feed into the it - Apple TV, Oppo BDP-105 playing DVD or Blu Rays, cable box, etc.


I've tried changing all the parameters in the Video Configuration. They are set to auto now but I changed everything and nothing gets rid of these artifacts.


Is there something I need to do in the D2V configuration to fix this? I've tried everything I could find to change and what concerns me greatly is that HDMI sources direct to the TV - not passing through the D2V - look great. When I run them through the D2V they are loaded with artifacts.


Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


Chris


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23130208
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23127475
> 
> 
> The hiss is lessened as I switch sources, but then when the source kicks in, the hiss jacks up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can hear this too when I stand close to my speakers. It's not the quietest processor on the market.
Click to expand...


If you are hearing hiss, then something is wrong.


The most common cause is RF Interference, and the usual suspect for that is room lighting dimmer switches, perhaps in an adjacent room. To test, turn those dimmers completely OFF -- not simply turned down. Dimmers often come with a bulb-change switch which turns them completely off for when you are changing bulbs.

--Bob


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23126093
> 
> 
> What makes you think there won't be an upgrade path? Anthem's history has shown that they very much do maintain an upgrade path for users. I bought an AVM20V2 a long time ago and they released a software upgrade to support DPLIIx. Later they offered an upgrade for the AVM20 V2 to AVM50 spec. I later bought an AVM50V and later still received a (free in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I feel for you outside NA guys) upgrade to AVM50V 3D spec.
> 
> 
> So Anthem's track record with upgrades is clear IMO. I have no reason to doubt they have a 4k solution in the works, and I all I see here (granted I haven't been following closely) is a rather wise IMO, refusal to commit publicly on the matter. 2014 or 2015 is a very long way out in this market and a lot can happen then. I've seen products fall apart in less time than that and have lots of customers very disappointed/unhappy for not getting what they thought they were promised by "loose lips" on the internet.
> 
> 
> I don't see how you can say a large chunk of your purchase is valueless, and I really don't know what you expect, most (smart/small) companies don't promise things until they're actually ready to ship them.



Well, we'll see... but based on the "UHD scepticism" already demonstrated, I won't be holding my breath.









But even if there is an undefined/invisible up-grade path then it will likely suffer the same high costs as experienced with the bypass for European customers (even though they were eligible for free upgrade, according to the published serial numbers) and make it unobtainable for many.


My main gripe is actually not the HW, it is the lack of development on the SW/FW, just bug fixes... even after so many years on the market.










Regards


Russ


----------



## Audiolic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23130121
> 
> 
> Ask Again Later; The Future is Hazy
> 
> 
> There have been a couple posts here suggesting Anthem Tech Support thinks at least one more Beta is coming first, but just from my testing, it looks like V3.09h could become "official" V3.10 any time now.
> 
> --Bob


Bob, would you be able to share some of the fixes / improvements in version 3.10 ?


----------



## stanger89

What sort of software upgrades/updates are you looking for? Dolby Volume (for one) has been added since I got my 50V, that was a big one for a lot of people. Besides that, there's no new HBR audio formats to decode, no new sound processing technologies (well I guess there's DPLIIz), I guess I'm not sure what there is for Anthem to add/update aside from bug fixes, as far as software goes.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23127475
> 
> 
> Yes
> 
> 
> Yes, the hiss is there regardless of the source and it's really noticeable. It's there even if I turn the volume down to -60 on the headphones. The hiss is lessened as I switch sources, but then when the source kicks in, the hiss jacks up. Even in 2-channel balanced input, the hiss kicks up with nothing playing. Taking my headphones off makes me feel like I'm in a library. The difference is literally that dramatic with the hiss. Like I said, I don't know if it has something to do with the impedance of the headphones.



I tried all three of my headphones. With the HD 555 and the D2000 there was hiss, just as you described. With the HE 500, there was dead silence. (Makes me wonder if I did try the D2000 originally.) It looks like the impedance of the headphone plays a role. AVfile mentioned that he had hiss out of his speakers. I had that when I had my 50v hooked to my amp with balanced cables. I changed to unbalanced cables and the speakers are silent. Bob mentioned dimmers and I do have a couple in my house, but turning them off made no difference. I have a two channel system where I use my headphones regularly with a dimmer on the same circuit as the equipment and there is no hiss. With so many variables involved, the only thing I could suggest is disconnecting everything from your Anthem, plugging it straight to the wall and check if you still have the hiss. If not, reconnect everything one by one, checking for hiss each time.


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RussVC*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23130578
> 
> 
> Well, we'll see... but based on the "UHD scepticism" already demonstrated, I won't be holding my breath.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But even if there is an undefined/invisible up-grade path then it will likely suffer the same high costs as experienced with the bypass for European customers (even though they were eligible for free upgrade, according to the published serial numbers) and make it unobtainable for many.
> 
> 
> My main gripe is actually not the HW, it is the lack of development on the SW/FW, just bug fixes... even after so many years on the market.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> Russ




Not that I have any inside knowledge, but I assume that the best cost effective 4K compliant upgrade would be a simple pass-thru. Please note that this may not easily be obtainable because all new HDMI processing may be required to support the increased bandwidth requirements. Hopefully a daughter board could support this requirement like it did for the 3D upgrade.


The hope of getting the video to scale to 4K would mean an entirely new video processor which would put the upgrade in the league of the upgrade to the V, which was an all-new unit exchange. If this was to happen, I would hope that the upgrade would make the new unit do more than just pass-thru 3D.


The moral of the story is that video technology is changing rapidly and no one is able to make anything that is future proof because the next level of hardware does not exist. In hind sight, I think it might be better to remove the video portion from the audio portion. It is a lot cheaper and easier to upgrade players (with dual HDMI for seperate audio and video) than it is to upgrade preamps. Lets face it, we bought a preamp to be able to use seperate amps, etc. We likely should keep audio seperate from the video so that the video can be upgraded as needed...


I think Anthem has done a wonderful job on the audio side. Please note that the audio portion of the units have not changed significantly since the AVM-20 days with the exception of ARC and the HD audio codes that came with HDMI...


What SW/FW gripes do you have? Do not forget that the basic operation of the unit dates back to the AVM-20. No need to mess with a good thing. Almost all of the SW/FW updates have been relative to HDMI issues. New major SW/FW changes came to include ARC and as other hardware changes were added (change to V and addition of 3D Pass-Thru). What other changes are needed?



Ed


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40260#post_23103363
> 
> 
> My concern was that a digital volume control loses bits as the volume is reduced which degrades the sound.
> 
> Only a really well designed analog volume control will not degrade the sound enough to cause problems.
> 
> I am still not sure the Anthem D2v has such an analog control.



The advent of 32 bit DACs makes this situation a lot less clear cut.


With the newer 32 bit DACs you have enough bit depth to use digital volume control with no audio effects.


Only an analog volume control with a S/N ratio over 135db is better. Those are not common.

http://hifiduino.wordpress.com/2012/01/31/the-sabre-dac-digital-volume-control-better-than-analog/


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23131021
> 
> 
> The moral of the story is that video technology is changing rapidly and no one is able to make anything that is future proof because the next level of hardware does not exist. In hind sight, I think it might be better to remove the video portion from the audio portion. It is a lot cheaper and easier to upgrade players (with dual HDMI for seperate audio and video) than it is to upgrade preamps. Lets face it, we bought a preamp to be able to use seperate amps, etc. We likely should keep audio seperate from the video so that the video can be upgraded as needed...



Yeah, I really wish Anthem had a "AVM40V", something with HDMI and HBR audio decoding but no video processing, for a significantly lower cost. Would have been better for me, I never needed/wanted the video processing in my 50V and now that I've got a Radiance XE 3D the video never even touches my 50V. But alas, apparently too many people want an all in one box, than to get separate boxes that do everything better.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23130729
> 
> 
> Bob, would you be able to share some of the fixes / improvements in version 3.10 ?



I posted Anthem's release notes on "test" firmware V3.09h when it came out earlier this month -- check back around March 10. I don't have any info beyond that.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *camdenx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23130396
> 
> 
> Hello all...
> 
> 
> I'm hoping some of you D2V enthusiasts can shed some light on a problem I'm having with video on a used D2V I just acquired. The unit has the latest 3.09 firmware and was very clean, purchased from a highly reputable seller.
> 
> 
> I'm seeing video artifacts (mainly horizontal lines but I've also seen what appears to be pixel noise) generated by the D2V most noticeably around the edges of graphical images and text overlayed on video.
> 
> 
> The artifacts also manifest themselves in regular video around the edges of clothes and people especially when they are moving. Basically, the HDMI (1 or 2) output of the D2V looks terrible from any source.
> 
> 
> When I connect my cable box (HDMI) direct to the TV using the same cable that was running from the D2V, no artifacts - the image is completely clean. So it's not cabling, not my TV, and not the sources. The problem tracks to the D2V.
> 
> 
> The pic of my TV screen at this link shows the problem. If you download the original image and zoom in you can see the artifacts easily.
> 
> 
> Notice the horizontal lines to the right of the red box, around and inside the 'p', to the left of the blue box, to the left of the 'e' in "Gopher" and to the right of the 'e' in "Defies", around the '#' sign, and embedded in the letters in the text of the scroll box in the bottom of the screen.
> 
> 
> These artifacts are generated by the D2V from all HDMI sources I feed into the it - Apple TV, Oppo BDP-105 playing DVD or Blu Rays, cable box, etc.
> 
> 
> I've tried changing all the parameters in the Video Configuration. They are set to auto now but I changed everything and nothing gets rid of these artifacts.
> 
> 
> Is there something I need to do in the D2V configuration to fix this? I've tried everything I could find to change and what concerns me greatly is that HDMI sources direct to the TV - not passing through the D2V - look great. When I run them through the D2V they are loaded with artifacts.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> 
> 
> Chris



Possibly the following were set by the previous owner and could be causing the problems.

Go into the video set up. Pressing and holding #7 on the remote and then zeroing out and turning off all unnecessary settings.

Like the enhancement ,edge controls etc.

Then reset whatever you feel is required for your setup.

Be aware that the setting area you enter by pressing #7 is for the source you were or are currently viewing


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *camdenx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23130396
> 
> 
> Hello all...
> 
> 
> I'm hoping some of you D2V enthusiasts can shed some light on a problem I'm having with video on a used D2V I just acquired. The unit has the latest 3.09 firmware and was very clean, purchased from a highly reputable seller.
> 
> 
> I'm seeing video artifacts (mainly horizontal lines but I've also seen what appears to be pixel noise) generated by the D2V most noticeably around the edges of graphical images and text overlayed on video.
> 
> 
> The artifacts also manifest themselves in regular video around the edges of clothes and people especially when they are moving. Basically, the HDMI (1 or 2) output of the D2V looks terrible from any source.
> 
> 
> When I connect my cable box (HDMI) direct to the TV using the same cable that was running from the D2V, no artifacts - the image is completely clean. So it's not cabling, not my TV, and not the sources. The problem tracks to the D2V.
> 
> 
> The pic of my TV screen at this link shows the problem. If you download the original image and zoom in you can see the artifacts easily.
> 
> 
> Notice the horizontal lines to the right of the red box, around and inside the 'p', to the left of the blue box, to the left of the 'e' in "Gopher" and to the right of the 'e' in "Defies", around the '#' sign, and embedded in the letters in the text of the scroll box in the bottom of the screen.
> 
> 
> These artifacts are generated by the D2V from all HDMI sources I feed into the it - Apple TV, Oppo BDP-105 playing DVD or Blu Rays, cable box, etc.
> 
> 
> I've tried changing all the parameters in the Video Configuration. They are set to auto now but I changed everything and nothing gets rid of these artifacts.
> 
> 
> Is there something I need to do in the D2V configuration to fix this? I've tried everything I could find to change and what concerns me greatly is that HDMI sources direct to the TV - not passing through the D2V - look great. When I run them through the D2V they are loaded with artifacts.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> 
> 
> Chris



I suggest to start that you Reload Factory Defaults and then re-install the firmware. During the install process, disconnect all your HDMI devices (Sources and display) from wall power to insure you have no live HDMI connections. Afterwards, do *NOT* reload any Saved settings. Instead, make just the minimal Setup changes needed to get video output to your display. Do *NOT* make any changes in the Video Source Adjust menu. Just in Setup.


Now, go into Video Source Adjust (press and hold the "7" key) and scroll right to the Patterns tab and select a pattern such as Color Bars. This is internally generated, independent of any Source device. Do you still see the artifacts?


If so, exit Video Source Adjust (Back button) go into Setup and temporarily change your output resolution to 480p (not 480i). 480p is the "simplest" signal for HDMI to carry. Go back into Video Source Adjust and check again. If the artifacts are still there, call Anthem Tech Support and show them your picture. It is possible the video board connections may have shaken loose in shipment, but the type of artifact you are seeing is not one I've seen before.


If the problem is gone at 480p, then try 1080i and then back to 1080p. If the problem is gone at 1080i but present at 1080p that's pretty strong evidence of an HDMI bandwidth (i.e., cabling) problem.


In Setup > Video Output Configuration try changing the Data rate to 8-bit. Also check the HDMI Sync setting to see if the alternate choice works better.


If the re-install you started with seems to have cured the problem, then continue entering the rest of your settings manually. I.e., do not use your Saved settings. If you still have no problem after re-entering all your settings then you may have had corrupted settings to start with.


As you bring up each Source, test it. If the problem happens with each Source but does NOT happen with the internally generated Patterns, then there's an HDMI problem on the Input side of things. This time test with the Source set to send 480p to the Anthem and see if only higher resolutions have the problem. Call Anthem Tech Support with the results.

--Bob


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23130732
> 
> 
> What sort of software upgrades/updates are you looking for? Dolby Volume (for one) has been added since I got my 50V, that was a big one for a lot of people. Besides that, there's no new HBR audio formats to decode, no new sound processing technologies (well I guess there's DPLIIz), I guess I'm not sure what there is for Anthem to add/update aside from bug fixes, as far as software goes.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23131021
> 
> 
> What SW/FW gripes do you have? Do not forget that the basic operation of the unit dates back to the AVM-20. No need to mess with a good thing. Almost all of the SW/FW updates have been relative to HDMI issues. New major SW/FW changes came to include ARC and as other hardware changes were added (change to V and addition of 3D Pass-Thru). What other changes are needed?
> 
> 
> 
> Ed



As mentioned in one of my earlier posts, it would be nice to have more options for configuring the measurement results with custom filters (peaking, high/low shelf etc. like the Tag AV192r ten years ago), maybe even to be able to manipulate the resultant curve (like the current Audyssey Pro) , an improved "front end" rather than one based on s-video would also be nice, you know, using HD instead of lower than SD. How about being able to see what's happening below 20Hz, as has been requested a few times on this forum. Multiple sub support (independent settings and measurement) with better bass management including phase check and settings (although this may be limited by the HW).

It's not as if any of the above is new technology, it has or is being done already.

The above are all SW based, and just need competent programmers... There are lots more possibilities, just look at some of the other kit that's available, but let's just stick with the simple things for the moment.


Dolby volume is a joke, I'm amazed that anyone is actually using it as it just distorts the sound.


Regards


Russ


----------



## value

[QUOTEIf for whatever other reason a prepro that supports 4K switching is desired *now* then Anthem says sorry, not at this time but thanks for your feedback just the same.][/QUOTE]


Wow what a huge disappointment. Had been planning my entire H/T upgrades around a Anthem D2V with their supporting amps. Don't short change 4K. You guys jumped on the 3D "craze" !


----------



## AVfile


Read Me - v3.xx Upgrades.txt 15k .txt file

I think the 50v/D2v 3D is a great product. It meets all my needs and with the latest firmware has very few bugs. With the new will come more bugs, and perhaps another 1000 pages to read here. Right now I'd rather enjoy the stability of a mature product as evidenced by the recent quietness of this thread (except for the "upgraditis" itches).


----------



## AVfile

Welcome to the club Chris,


You can also use the INFO page in this menu to see what video format is being input and output:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23133479
> 
> 
> Go into the video set up. Pressing and holding #7 on the remote and then zeroing out and turning off all unnecessary settings.
> 
> Like the enhancement ,edge controls etc.
> 
> Then reset whatever you feel is required for your setup.
> 
> Be aware that the setting area you enter by pressing #7 is for the source you were or are currently viewing



The video processor could be changing the color space and format to something your TV is not happy with. Using AUTO for color space, format and data length is *not* a good idea. Unless you have the "3D upgrade" installed and set to bypass each source "OUTPUT = THROUGH", you need to become intimately familiar with what each setting does and how your TV reacts to them.


Stefan


----------



## Shayne2

They never jumped on the 3d craze they gave pass thru and at that stage you may as well feed only audio to the box for all your 4k video (whatever that maybe). Why would you push for 4k pass thru if you want to push for something push for 8k or you will be back here in a year.


This crystal ball I have made the Pentium 100 I bought in 1995 upgradable until to day. I just need a new mother board, ram, power supply, video card, Blu-ray burner, ssd drive, sata drive and my old case did not fit all the new technology so a new case and there future proof. It was my 286 in 1987 that I made the mistake on. This is a way of life for technology and if you can't afford the high end game get out of it now when you can. My wife would love me more if I could







.


You may see a new video board but bet it will not be the great price that we got for 3d pass thru. I would like an 8k video processing board (not pass thru) with top of the line processor please. That is when they come full circle with the design of the processor and it has come into its own, if not it will only be the best for 30 seconds. Look at the life span of gaming video cards. A modular avpro little your desk top just slap in a new video card and you are ready to go.


Regards


----------



## AbMagFab

Hi there - I'm trying to get an iTach IP/Serial device to work with my D2v. I have had a URC MSC-400 working over Serial for a few years now, and it's been flawless (I had to program the serial codes myself from the spreadsheet), but it's only one-way. Limitation of the URC system.


I've been converting over to Roomie, which has been solid for IR devices (using the iTack IP/IR devices), using Roomie to control the iTach. For IR devices, I've had no problems. But I can't get the iTach IP/Serial to work with my D2v.


I've tried baud rates from 152K down to 1200, no luck. I've tried N/8/1 and N/8/2, also no luck.


The serial cable I'm using is the same one I use with the Keyspan to update the D2v, so I'm assuming it should be fine and is the proper type? The main difference is the iTach has a serial port, so I'm using the serial cable without the Keyspan in this case.


I can fall back to IR control, but I'd really like to get serial working again, and have the two-way feedback.


Thanks in advance for any help, guidance, or ideas on diagnosing!


----------



## shah993

I am in the same boat.I had emailed roomie support but have not seen any changes anyway I have already posted this in the roomie thread so no point repeating it here.


----------



## AbMagFab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23136756
> 
> 
> I am in the same boat.I had emailed roomie support but have not seen any changes anyway I have already posted this in the roomie thread so no point repeating it here.


FWIW, I got it working. I had to set the iTach to 115200 N81 no flow control. I then used my custom plist, or you can download the one posted in the thread and synch it with Dropbox. Seems to be working for power, volume, and source selection, will test later with the various menus.


Now I just need to get my Sony VPL-VW60 working over IR (although maybe I should try serial?), and get my HomeSeer fully integrated, and I'm good to go!


----------



## AbMagFab

Haven't been following this thread for a while - but I have a D2v, and was wondering if the HDMI upgrade is out there for general availability (for 3D/HDMI 1.4x) and worth it? And what I should expect to pay, roughly? I don't do 3D, but figured the HDMI handling should be improved.


Any thoughts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23138980
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23136756
> 
> 
> I am in the same boat.I had emailed roomie support but have not seen any changes anyway I have already posted this in the roomie thread so no point repeating it here.
> 
> 
> 
> FWIW, I got it working. I had to set the iTach to 115200 N81 no flow control. I then used my custom plist, or you can download the one posted in the thread and synch it with Dropbox. Seems to be working for power, volume, and source selection, will test later with the various menus.
> 
> 
> Now I just need to get my Sony VPL-VW60 working over IR (although maybe I should try serial?), and get my HomeSeer fully integrated, and I'm good to go!
Click to expand...


In addition to flow control, the other usual culprit for problems with RS-232 control is whether the controller wants the RS-232 settings in the Anthem set to ECHO BACK input sent by the controller. I.e., is the controller expecting to see just the responses to each command sent or the combo of the echo of what it sent followed by the responses. Change this in the RS-232 part of Setup. Be sure to turn echo back OFF before trying to do ARC setup stuff. For firmware installs, the install must be preceded by a Reload Factory Defaults in the Anthem, which, among other things, also leaves the RS-232 Echo turned off.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AbMagFab*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23138982
> 
> 
> Haven't been following this thread for a while - but I have a D2v, and was wondering if the HDMI upgrade is out there for general availability (for 3D/HDMI 1.4x) and worth it? And what I should expect to pay, roughly? I don't do 3D, but figured the HDMI handling should be improved.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?



Did you already check to see if you are entitled to a reduced price upgrade? If you are I would say it's worth it, even if you don't use 3D, for the increased resale value and updated HDMI handling as you say. If you have to pay full price for it then maybe not.


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23136477
> 
> 
> They never jumped on the 3d craze they gave pass thru and at that stage you may as well feed only audio to the box for all your 4k video (whatever that maybe). Why would you push for 4k pass thru if you want to push for something push for 8k or you will be back here in a year.
> 
> 
> This crystal ball I have made the Pentium 100 I bought in 1995 upgradable until to day. I just need a new mother board, ram, power supply, video card, Blu-ray burner, ssd drive, sata drive and my old case did not fit all the new technology so a new case and there future proof. It was my 286 in 1987 that I made the mistake on. This is a way of life for technology and if you can't afford the high end game get out of it now when you can. My wife would love me more if I could
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> You may see a new video board but bet it will not be the great price that we got for 3d pass thru. I would like an 8k video processing board (not pass thru) with top of the line processor please. That is when they come full circle with the design of the processor and it has come into its own, if not it will only be the best for 30 seconds. Look at the life span of gaming video cards. A modular avpro little your desk top just slap in a new video card and you are ready to go.
> 
> 
> Regards



And what about the software that ran on your "Pentium 100"... you can still use that today!

Windows 8 will even give superior performance on old hardware.


Why is everyone focusing on hardware, it is the D2v software development that has not moved forward. Done properly, the HW can last for many years with SW/FW introducing new features, functions and performance improvements, it is this area that Anthem do not seem to be exploiting. Or maybe they are and have great plans for the future, but there does not seem to be any evidence to this effect.


Regards


Russ


----------



## Shayne2

Windows 8 does not run on a Pentium 100 .... not enough ram slots. It was only tongue and cheek to begin with and software will never fix hardware short falls. The sigma design VXP may never process a 4320P signal if the standard does remain at 16:9.


Regards


EDIT:


I should have added it does do a excellent job conditioning and feeding it to my 1080P. When I do get an 8k set than maybe I will still be sending this processed 1080P to the set and let it do the transformation. It depends what they come with when they are released. 4K I can skip in the blink of an eye and not regret it.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40320#post_23130208
> 
> 
> I can hear this too when I stand close to my speakers. It's not the quietest processor on the market.



This is with regards to my headphones, not my speakers. My speakers are dead quiet. My headphones are what produce tons of hiss. I've tried two different pairs/models of Sennheiser headphones and the hiss is really terrible.


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23140540
> 
> 
> This is with regards to my headphones, not my speakers. My speakers are dead quiet. My headphones are what produce tons of hiss. I've tried two different pairs/models of Sennheiser headphones and the hiss is really terrible.



I have the same issue with headphones. Terrible hiss on all the headphones I own. Auido-Technica, Grado and Sony. It is disappointing that a product at the level of the D2v can't deliver performance that even a basic receiver has no trouble with.


----------



## AVfile

I was just echoing the fact that noise starts when the digital source processing is engaged (source and display turned on, PCM indicated, no disc playing). It is virtually silent until then, so I don't think it's noise on the power line (dimmers have no effect on it). Turning off the source or display does not stop the noise once it has started.


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23139895
> 
> 
> Windows 8 does not run on a Pentium 100



I didn't say that it does, please read my post more carefully.


The fact is, most programmable devices benefit from software and/or firmware upgrades in their lifetimes, the D2v has had few upgrades (debatable if it has had any at all) of this nature despite being on the market for so long... this is what I am commenting on and so far nobody has said anything to indicate otherwise...


Regards


Russ


----------



## turk 182

Just got my Anthem AVM 50v 3D and am using Oppo BDP 105 for blu ray. I don`t want over processed video so I want to use Oppo processing only, how do I set Anthem to pass through? Alot of settings with the Anthem if any of you have any set up tips, that would be appreciated. I have Paradigm Signature 6`s and C3 for cc I think ARC set my front and center crossover to 60hz, that seems a little high to me. When I adjust that down to say 40hz do I have to set sub crossover to 40 as well, or does sub crossover bypass take care of that?


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23143966
> 
> 
> Just got my Anthem AVM 50v 3D and am using Oppo BDP 105 for blu ray. I don`t want over processed video so I want to use Oppo processing only, how do I set Anthem to pass through? Alot of settings with the Anthem if any of you have any set up tips, that would be appreciated. I have Paradigm Signature 6`s and C3 for cc I think ARC set my front and center crossover to 60hz, that seems a little high to me. When I adjust that down to say 40hz do I have to set sub crossover to 40 as well, or does sub crossover bypass take care of that?



Sounds like you need to read a bit here and the manual, than tinker with your settings, once you know them, let your anthem than your player process and see what you like better for your setup.


Bottom line is if you read a bit here you will know NEVER MESS WITH THE ARC SETTINGS when done right (read here 1st post and your manual) this is something that is perfect that you should not mess with.


Regards


Edit most likely not clean and all thank you's should go to Bob but here are my cut and pastes from this forum to get you started.

AVS Setup directions.pdf 62k .pdf file

avs setup.pdf 24k .pdf file


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RussVC*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23143441
> 
> 
> I didn't say that it does, please read my post more carefully.
> 
> 
> The fact is, most programmable devices benefit from software and/or firmware upgrades in their lifetimes, the D2v has had few upgrades (debatable if it has had any at all) of this nature despite being on the market for so long... this is what I am commenting on and so far nobody has said anything to indicate otherwise...
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> Russ



Totally agree that the software definitely lags the hardware. You would think at least disable source would be in the options. Was not indicating anything to the contrary in my OP. What I was saying was to think that this hardware will process 4k is a bit beyond the original purchase agreement. We all know technology advances and I for one hope my last anthem with be 8k video with HHHD audio.










Regards


----------



## turk 182

Thank you man! That`s just what I was looking for. I know I need to read the manual more, I am not the techiest of guys and the manual talks over my head some. According to Bob`s attachment the actual disc is pretty important for serial number syncing. I have had problems with PBK (not recognizing sub and mic) I have gotten a new computer and instead of loading the PBK disc I just downloaded newer version of PBK from Paradigm and wondered why it didn`t work. Thanks to Bob and yourself it sounds like I need to use disc first then download newer version of PBK. Thanks a lot to both of you.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23143966
> 
> 
> Just got my Anthem AVM 50v 3D and am using Oppo BDP 105 for blu ray. I don`t want over processed video so I want to use Oppo processing only, how do I set Anthem to pass through?



Greetings!


From the setup menu SOURCE SETUP - for each source you have assigned to the Oppo (eg: DVD1) set the video output mode to THROUGH.


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23144393
> 
> 
> Greetings!
> 
> 
> From the setup menu SOURCE SETUP - for each source you have assigned to the Oppo (eg: DVD1) set the video output mode to THROUGH.




Thanks man. I PBKed my sub before ARC and the chart is the best I`ve seen. Hardly any delineation from target line. Am I right when I say less video processing the better? Any other tips for set up other than ARC the hell out of it and leave it? Maybe with Oppo settings.


----------



## runninkyle17

DSD playback question: Thinking about purchasing a DSD capable DAC. Currently my setup is as follows: HTPC FLAC files in J. River media center (USB out) -> EMU 0404 (analog out) -> Anthem D2v (XLR out) -> Emotiva XPA-1's -> Martin Logan Spires. I have read up on some of the DSD capable DACs and want to ensure that I will be able to play the files through the Anthem D2v.


My main question is since the D2v does not process any DSD files does the DAC that I purchase need to have a dedicated pre-amp? I am wanting to go DSD directly to analog to the D2v. The setup would look as follows: HTPC (J. River DSD files played via ASIO drivers) (USB out) -> DSD DAC (balanced XLR out) -> Anthem D2v (etc, etc).


So basically if the DAC is outputting through balanced XLR's that should be an analog out correct?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23145950
> 
> 
> DSD playback question: Thinking about purchasing a DSD capable DAC. Currently my setup is as follows: HTPC FLAC files in J. River media center (USB out) -> EMU 0404 (analog out) -> Anthem D2v (XLR out) -> Emotiva XPA-1's -> Martin Logan Spires. I have read up on some of the DSD capable DACs and want to ensure that I will be able to play the files through the Anthem D2v.
> 
> 
> My main question is since the D2v does not process any DSD files does the DAC that I purchase need to have a dedicated pre-amp? I am wanting to go DSD directly to analog to the D2v. The setup would look as follows: HTPC (J. River DSD files played via ASIO drivers) (USB out) -> DSD DAC (balanced XLR out) -> Anthem D2v (etc, etc).
> 
> 
> So basically if the DAC is outputting through balanced XLR's that should be an analog out correct?



Sorry, I know this is a bit OT but it is my favorite topic


You pretty much have everything setup correctly for playing hirez stereo music.

You would substitute a DSD capable DAC for the EMU0404. You can store the DSD files with your FLAC files and JRiver will stream both correctly.

The best way to set this up is accessing the music computer files via ethernet or USB to the DAC using Jriver, Then output to the D2v via balanced or analog cables.

The D2v output is via balanced or analog to your amp.

What ever source you use in the D2v , I use 2 chan balanced, you should be using *Analog Direct* as you do not want another ADC to DAC conversion.

The D2v will act as your preamp. Anthem has told me that the D2v volume control is not a digital control so no added distortion.

Playing hirez stereo you really do not need ARC or a subwoofer.

If your looking for a reasonable DSD DAC you might consider the TEAC 501 or the Mytek 192 stereo. I use the Mytek an it is fabulous.

It automatically switches from any Flac bitrate to DSD without any intervention.

I store the files on an external HDD connected to an optimized laptop connected to the Mytek Stereo 192 DAC

Using the ASIO drivers it is capable of playing double DSD (5.6 mHz ) music files.

There are many DSD files available for downloading with more being available everyday.

Or you can rip DSD files from SACD discs and eliminate the distortion from the optical player.

Using JRiver allows you to view and control your library with a tablet or smartphone.


You can find out much more here. Computer Audiophile Forum


----------



## runninkyle17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23146136
> 
> 
> Sorry, I know this is a bit OT but it is my favorite topic
> 
> 
> You pretty much have everything setup correctly for playing hirez stereo music.
> 
> You would substitute a DSD capable DAC for the EMU0404. You can store the DSD files with your FLAC files and JRiver will stream both correctly.
> 
> The best way to set this up is accessing the music computer files via ethernet or USB to the DAC using Jriver, Then output to the D2v via balanced or analog cables.
> 
> The D2v output is via balanced or analog to your amp.
> 
> What ever source you use in the D2v , I use 2 chan balanced, you should be using *Analog Direct* as you do not want another ADC to DAC conversion.
> 
> The D2v will act as your preamp. Anthem has told me that the D2v volume control is not a digital control so no added distortion.
> 
> Playing hirez stereo you really do not need ARC or a subwoofer.
> 
> If your looking for a reasonable DSD DAC you might consider the TEAC 501 or the Mytek 192 stereo. I use the Mytek an it is fabulous.
> 
> It automatically switches from any Flac bitrate to DSD without any intervention.
> 
> I store the files on an external HDD connected to an optimized laptop connected to the Mytek Stereo 192 DAC
> 
> Using the ASIO drivers it is capable of playing double DSD (5.6 mHz ) music files.
> 
> There are many DSD files available for downloading with more being available everyday.
> 
> Or you can rip DSD files from SACD discs and eliminate the distortion from the optical player.
> 
> Using JRiver allows you to view and control your library with a tablet or smartphone.
> 
> 
> You can find out much more here. Computer Audiophile Forum



That pretty much answers my question. I guess I just need to find out if the TEAC 501 supports ASIO 2.2. I will be using J. River as a player and I want to bitstream from the HTPC to the DSD DAC without any PCM downconversion. I know the mytek supports ASIO 2.2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23140667
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23140540
> 
> 
> This is with regards to my headphones, not my speakers. My speakers are dead quiet. My headphones are what produce tons of hiss. I've tried two different pairs/models of Sennheiser headphones and the hiss is really terrible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same issue with headphones. Terrible hiss on all the headphones I own. Auido-Technica, Grado and Sony. It is disappointing that a product at the level of the D2v can't deliver performance that even a basic receiver has no trouble with.
Click to expand...


Call Anthem Tech Support. Your unit may need service.


Again, if there is hiss on any of the outputs, then something is wrong. The USUAL reason is external interference (RF, not ground loop). But if you've already done what you can to eliminate that as a possibility, then your Anthem may need service. Components do fail in all electronics.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23143966
> 
> 
> Just got my Anthem AVM 50v 3D and am using Oppo BDP 105 for blu ray. I don`t want over processed video so I want to use Oppo processing only, how do I set Anthem to pass through? Alot of settings with the Anthem if any of you have any set up tips, that would be appreciated. I have Paradigm Signature 6`s and C3 for cc I think ARC set my front and center crossover to 60hz, that seems a little high to me. When I adjust that down to say 40hz do I have to set sub crossover to 40 as well, or does sub crossover bypass take care of that?



There is nothing to fear from letting the AVM 50v/3D do video processing.


If you have the OPPO putting out 1080p video, and have the Video Source Adjust menu in the AVM 50v set to default values for the Input and Output adjustments, then the AVM 50v is not doing anything except for color space conversion math as necessary to match your specified output format to the Display. The OPPO has already done all the heavy lifting, and so there's no work for the Anthem to do.


Modern video processors do things only when there is work to be done.


Even if you decide you want to use Source Direct output from the OPPO, the video processing in the AVM 50v is as good as it gets.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23140781
> 
> 
> I was just echoing the fact that noise starts when the digital source processing is engaged (source and display turned on, PCM indicated, no disc playing). It is virtually silent until then, so I don't think it's noise on the power line (dimmers have no effect on it). Turning off the source or display does not stop the noise once it has started.



This sort of testing can be a little misleading, as there are situations where the output is automatically muted, such as when the Anthem does not think there is a valid digital input stream on the input. Get in touch with Anthem Tech Support. They may be able to suggest some tests to nail down if this is an internal problem (unit needs service) or some form of external interference you've not yet identified.

--Bob


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23144284
> 
> 
> Thank you man! That`s just what I was looking for. I know I need to read the manual more, I am not the techiest of guys and the manual talks over my head some. According to Bob`s attachment the actual disc is pretty important for serial number syncing. I have had problems with PBK (not recognizing sub and mic) I have gotten a new computer and instead of loading the PBK disc I just downloaded newer version of PBK from Paradigm and wondered why it didn`t work. Thanks to Bob and yourself it sounds like I need to use disc first then download newer version of PBK. Thanks a lot to both of you.



You can install the newer program and then just copy over the cal files to make it run correctly. You do not need to install your original disk but you do need your calibration files that came on it (back these files up).


Regards


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23146775
> 
> 
> You can install the newer program and then just copy over the cal files to make it run correctly. You do not need to install your original disk but you do need your calibration files that came on it (back these files up).
> 
> 
> Regards


Thank you I have a Mac now and I don`t really want to go bootcamp route. It is a real pain to try and find someones laptop to do all this PBK and ARC, however I did it all yesterday with a pals old laptop and paradigm sight was down along with anthem. So I had to use 3.02 ARC software and 2010 PBK software. Everything sounds really good, I would have liked to use the newer software though.


----------



## dmusoke


Does any know if the D2v HDMI inputs are still active if they are *NOT* selected? If i select input HDMI1, are HDMI inputs 2 through 8 still active or powered down/de-selected?


----------



## Thxtheater

Easy way for phantom center mode?


Guys, I was listening to Les Miserables on Bluray and I wanted to switch into phantom center mode. Two questions:


1) I'm assuming that the simplest way is setting the center to "none" in the Bass Management menu and that this can be done post ARC? My goal is to listen to the musical in phantom center mode.


2) If I wanted to do an "A" "B" between the two, is there an easy mechanism to switch between phantom center on or off?


Thanks

Theo


----------



## agrsiv95

^^^ have you tried the al-music setting? I believe it runs everything but the center.


----------



## Bittornado

Hello everybody! An owner of Anthem D2v and P5 since more than a year ago, unfortunately due to different reasons just got my stuff unpacked and hooked up! The shear of the looks of the gear screams quality










Now I would appreciate if someone could help me out with a little problem here...

I own a Pioneer Kuro KRP-600M monitor. Subsequently the monitor has no tv-tuner at all. And we all know that Anthem D2v does not have a tv-tuner either.

I get cable-tv from a simple RF-socket coming out off the living room wall. These are all analog signals I get for free. For the moment I do not want to pay for any extras or a digital box or anything.


I was thinking how to connect the analog tv signal to my Pioneer tv set via my D2v.

I do own a good old VCR player which does have an analog tv-tuner (receiver). I was thinking of hooking up my RF antenna cable with the analog signal to my VCR which has a Scart connection at its back, I got myself a Scart -> composite adapter, routed the composite cable to the D2v composite VCR input connection with the separate sound cables to the corresponding analog audio inputs of the D2v. I then connected the audio out from D2v to my P5.


So far I should be good, right?

Now comes the tricky part... I'm kinda 'novice stupid' when it comes to signal conversions I'm afraid... my question is, can I now get the video signal fed to my D2v via a video composte cable out from D2v via an HDMI cable to my tv-monitor? Or is that impossible since the composite video-in from my VCR feeds D2v with an analog signal so therefore I'd need to get the signal out from D2v via another composite cable to my monitor?

Does D2v also have ADCs or only DACs? I'm not sure what happens to an analog video signal which is being fed into D2v pre-amp... setting up the gear via HDMI simply does not give me any signal at all on my Pioneer monitor.

That's why I'm suspecting that an anaolg signal needs to be taken from D2v by a composite analog connection...


Another way of solving the problem might be to get an active Scart -> HDMI convertor, but such a converter costs a lot more than a simple composite video cable and also I won't be gaining any signal improvements anyway since the analog RF signal that is being fed from the wall antenna socket is already the worse signal source possible!


So would some kind soul please explain to a home-theatre novice what signal conversions actually happen in a D2v?!

I would highly appreciate any kinda help and advice










Sincerely,

/Bittornado


----------



## RussVC

 http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33199_7-57576681-221/how-to-save-the-av-receiver/?tag=nl.e404&s_cid=e404&ttag=e404 


This would be funny... if there weren't so many truths within.

I guess this is the way a non-audiophile views our pass-time/hobby/obsession.



Regards


Russ


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23136756
> 
> 
> I am in the same boat.I had emailed roomie support but have not seen any changes anyway I have already posted this in the roomie thread so no point repeating it here.



You need to email roomie directly or post on the forum on their web site to get a response. You will get a response via email and not via the forum on their site. Their response time is somewhat sporadic, but it's been good overall in my experience.


I'm using IR but was thinking of using the new iTach flex to connect to the Anthem for serial connectivity. The new flex auto-senses baud rate and everything else so it should work without issue.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bittornado*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23154427
> 
> 
> Hello ... my question is, can I now get the video signal fed to my D2v via a video composte cable out from D2v via an HDMI cable to my tv-monitor? Or is that impossible since the composite video-in from my VCR feeds D2v with an analog signal so therefore I'd need to get the signal out from D2v via another composite cable to my monitor?
> 
> Does D2v also have ADCs or only DACs?



Hi Bittornado!


Is has ADCs which are used for Analog DSP mode. Analog Direct bypasses the ADCs and a lot of features of the processor.


To process or upconvert the video input it needs to be at least S-video. Composite is switched only, not processed.


Stefan


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RussVC*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23155110
> 
> 
> This would be funny... if there weren't so many truths within.



Yep. I suppose I should replace this mess with one cute little box:


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bittornado*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23154427
> 
> 
> Hello everybody! An owner of Anthem D2v and P5 since more than a year ago, unfortunately due to different reasons just got my stuff unpacked and hooked up! The shear of the looks of the gear screams quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I would appreciate if someone could help me out with a little problem here...
> 
> I own a Pioneer Kuro KRP-600M monitor. Subsequently the monitor has no tv-tuner at all. And we all know that Anthem D2v does not have a tv-tuner either.
> 
> I get cable-tv from a simple RF-socket coming out off the living room wall. These are all analog signals I get for free. For the moment I do not want to pay for any extras or a digital box or anything.
> 
> 
> I was thinking how to connect the analog tv signal to my Pioneer tv set via my D2v.
> 
> I do own a good old VCR player which does have an analog tv-tuner (receiver). I was thinking of hooking up my RF antenna cable with the analog signal to my VCR which has a Scart connection at its back, I got myself a Scart -> composite adapter, routed the composite cable to the D2v composite VCR input connection with the separate sound cables to the corresponding analog audio inputs of the D2v. I then connected the audio out from D2v to my P5.
> 
> 
> So far I should be good, right?
> 
> Now comes the tricky part... I'm kinda 'novice stupid' when it comes to signal conversions I'm afraid... my question is, can I now get the video signal fed to my D2v via a video composte cable out from D2v via an HDMI cable to my tv-monitor? Or is that impossible since the composite video-in from my VCR feeds D2v with an analog signal so therefore I'd need to get the signal out from D2v via another composite cable to my monitor?
> 
> Does D2v also have ADCs or only DACs? I'm not sure what happens to an analog video signal which is being fed into D2v pre-amp... setting up the gear via HDMI simply does not give me any signal at all on my Pioneer monitor.
> 
> That's why I'm suspecting that an anaolg signal needs to be taken from D2v by a composite analog connection...
> 
> 
> Another way of solving the problem might be to get an active Scart -> HDMI convertor, but such a converter costs a lot more than a simple composite video cable and also I won't be gaining any signal improvements anyway since the analog RF signal that is being fed from the wall antenna socket is already the worse signal source possible!
> 
> 
> So would some kind soul please explain to a home-theatre novice what signal conversions actually happen in a D2v?!
> 
> I would highly appreciate any kinda help and advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> /Bittornado



If you're looking for a TV tuner solution that has an emphasis on video quality, then go with a Tivo--specifically the TiVo Premiere (the others in the series won't support what you are looking to do). You can then feed it to your D2v for additional processing, etc. This product will work with *both over the air and cable*. You don't need to pay for service past year 1. That's not explicit, but if you call TiVo, they will explain how all that works. So basically, the TiVo will act as the tuner to get the signal and decode it to HDMI and you can then go from there with your D2v. There are other products that will do it, but the TiVo is the overall best, but also more expensive, product.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RussVC*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23155110
> 
> http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33199_7-57576681-221/how-to-save-the-av-receiver/?tag=nl.e404&s_cid=e404&ttag=e404
> 
> 
> This would be funny... if there weren't so many truths within.
> 
> I guess this is the way a non-audiophile views our pass-time/hobby/obsession.



Maybe that's why I thought it was a pretty terrible article








Make them smaller - Good amps take volume/mass, though my parallel question is why are *good* "digital" amps (Anthem M1) priced astronomically, why is there nothing between the M1 and $25 Lepai LP2020a?
Make them prettier - Am I the only one who doesn't like the tiny, odd-shaped CE devices? I like my #U shaped equipment, even if it is sometimes funny how much of that is empty space.
Get rid of most features - OK, I'll give him this one, I'm one of those who just wants a good audio processor with room correction, you don't need streaming or whatever else.
Embrace wireless - USB/IP would be nice








Include a true high-definition interface - Who cares? It's a setup menu, I never see the menu on my 50V, or my BD player unless I need to change something.
Make a usable remote - There's a point here, but there's also the reality that good remotes are expensive and most people do (or should) replace all their remotes with a URC/RTI/Harmony.
Include speaker cables in the box - OK, this is just a stupid idea, sorry but it is. Are they really going to send 50' 14AWG wires for each speaker for those of us with HT systems?
Embrace stereo - I think the author is missing the point, soundbars are popular, not because people want stereo or low complexity, but they don't want two "giant" speakers and wires "cluttering" up their room. It's a form over function thing.


There's a few other gems in there:

"They also tend to have few inputs, but, as sound bars have proven, you really only need a single digital input if you use your TV to switch between devices. "

Um not really, most TVs don't route audio worth a darn, they only route stereo unless you're using the TV's tuner, and most TVs don't decode DTS so you're stuffed trying to route DTS sources through your TV.


I guess I just get the impression that the writer is somewhere between an enthusiast and a soundbar user, he seems "disturbed" that people are using soundbars when they don't want whole HT setups, yet too lazy to setup an AVR himself (or something). I say if a soundbar works for you go for it. Nothing wrong with using a soundbar, it gets you better sound without cluttering up your room. Most people these days don't want large speakers in their living room.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bittornado*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23154427
> 
> 
> Hello everybody! An owner of Anthem D2v and P5 since more than a year ago, unfortunately due to different reasons just got my stuff unpacked and hooked up! The shear of the looks of the gear screams quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I would appreciate if someone could help me out with a little problem here...
> 
> I own a Pioneer Kuro KRP-600M monitor. Subsequently the monitor has no tv-tuner at all. And we all know that Anthem D2v does not have a tv-tuner either.
> 
> I get cable-tv from a simple RF-socket coming out off the living room wall. These are all analog signals I get for free. For the moment I do not want to pay for any extras or a digital box or anything.
> 
> *The cable connection to the D2v you are talking about here needs a Quam TV tuner in order to receive and then be able to tune or change the channels.
> 
> Most cable companies have gone 100% digital in the last year or so so there may still be some analog signals and some digital or no analog signals at all available.
> 
> You still need an external tv tuner. Either buy a Quam external tuner or contact the cable company for an external digital adapter.
> 
> Most cable companies give out free digital tuner boxes to their customers for additional tvs they may have.
> 
> These are not the regular pay tv box they rent with a monthly charge.
> *
> 
> 
> I was thinking how to connect the analog tv signal to my Pioneer tv set via my D2v.
> 
> I do own a good old VCR player which does have an analog tv-tuner (receiver). I was thinking of hooking up my RF antenna cable with the analog signal to my VCR which has a Scart connection at its back, I got myself a Scart -> composite adapter, routed the composite cable to the D2v composite VCR input connection with the separate sound cables to the corresponding analog audio inputs of the D2v. I then connected the audio out from D2v to my P5.
> 
> *Rather than invest in obsolete Scart technology get a Quam tuner or a digital adapter from the cable company.
> *
> 
> 
> So far I should be good, right?
> 
> Now comes the tricky part... I'm kinda 'novice stupid' when it comes to signal conversions I'm afraid... my question is, can I now get the video signal fed to my D2v via a video composte cable out from D2v via an HDMI cable to my tv-monitor? Or is that impossible since the composite video-in from my VCR feeds D2v with an analog signal so therefore I'd need to get the signal out from D2v via another composite cable to my monitor?
> 
> Does D2v also have ADCs or only DACs? I'm not sure what happens to an analog video signal which is being fed into D2v pre-amp... setting up the gear via HDMI simply does not give me any signal at all on my Pioneer monitor.
> 
> That's why I'm suspecting that an anaolg signal needs to be taken from D2v by a composite analog connection...
> 
> 
> Another way of solving the problem might be to get an active Scart -> HDMI convertor, but such a converter costs a lot more than a simple composite video cable and also I won't be gaining any signal improvements anyway since the analog RF signal that is being fed from the wall antenna socket is already the worse signal source possible!
> 
> *Do not get confused with the differences between Audio and Video. The ADC /DAC features in the D2v are for the audio signals only.
> Rather than invest in obsolete Scart technology get a Quam tuner or a digital adapter from the cable company.
> *
> 
> 
> So would some kind soul please explain to a home-theatre novice what signal conversions actually happen in a D2v?!
> 
> I would highly appreciate any kinda help and advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> /Bittornado


----------



## Supertaint

I recently bought a second hand 50v and the remote doesn't seem to work. It lights up, but none of the buttons do anything. I have also tried using a harmony one remote, but that doesn't work either. Am I missing something?


----------



## DaveBoswell




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350#post_23140540
> 
> 
> This is with regards to my headphones, not my speakers. My speakers are dead quiet. My headphones are what produce tons of hiss. I've tried two different pairs/models of Sennheiser headphones and the hiss is really terrible.



I have terrible hiss on the headphones input too - have so from day one when I purchased in summer of 2009, hardly ever use headphones so never bothered to send note to Tech Support. Was just using the headphones the other night and it's still there loud and "not" clear. Seems like from a pretty small sample here, many of us have the same hiss issue, and I too have notticed that the hiss does start and stop with when the "digital connection" is made suggesting that something pretty fundamental may be at play here.


I am going to log this with tech support, and ask that anyone else who also gets hiss through their headphones do the same, that way hopefully we can nudge Anthem to see if there is a software fix and not force us all to send our pre pros in for service (mine is out or warranty too).


My gear in in my sig below and I use HDMI for all source interconnects (and hiss in all digital source regardless, have not checked if there with analog sources as I don't have any set up at the moment) and use Balanced to 5 of 7 channels plus 3 subs, and RCA to rear 2 channels - in both cases to Anthem amps.


Dave


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Supertaint*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23156785
> 
> 
> I recently bought a second hand 50v and the remote doesn't seem to work. It lights up, but none of the buttons do anything. I have also tried using a harmony one remote, but that doesn't work either. Am I missing something?


Have you checked this in the manual ? maybe the front sensor is not turned on.



Setting the Anthem IR


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Supertaint*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23156785
> 
> 
> I recently bought a second hand 50v and the remote doesn't seem to work. It lights up, but none of the buttons do anything. I have also tried using a harmony one remote, but that doesn't work either. Am I missing something?



Since you have a used unit, start by doing a Reset Factory Defaults on the AVM 50v. (It may be that the previous owner used RS-232 control and thus had the IR remote control sensors turned off.) You can do that using the Front Panel Display and the Front Panel buttons to access the Setup menu and navigate to the appropriate section. Note that you can download the Manual from the Anthem web site to help find your way into and through the Setup menu to do this.


Then also Reset the remote control itself. See Section 5.6 of the Manual.


The Anthem is like 4 devices inside one chassis (Main, Zone 2, Zone 3, Record) and the remote can be used to control any of them independently, just like it can be used to control other gear you might have like a DVD player.


The buttons at the TOP of the Anthem remote tell it which device you want the remote to control at the moment. So press the Main button at the top to tell the remote you want it to talk to the Main part of the AVM 50v. Also make sure you have fresh batteries in the remote AND that they are installed the right way around. (The similar looking buttons at the BOTTOM of the remote are for selecting which Source device you want to play at the moment -- don't confuse them with the buttons at the TOP of the remote, which control the function of the remote itself.)

--Bob


----------



## Supertaint

It was as simple as turning on the IR inputs. I completely overlooked it in the manual.


Thanks!


----------



## dweltman

Nick has been posting frequently lately, so I am hoping he will post a reply to this question. I recently contacted my local Anthem dealer (who is different from the dealer that originally sold me the D2V) about the 3D upgrade. I have one of the older D2V's that will require the replacement of the additional video board, so I was expecting the cost to be higher. But they contacted Anthem and called me back to say that the unit needed to be shipped to Anthem for the upgrade. The last I had heard the upgrades were all done locally. Is this a new development?


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaveBoswell*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23156868
> 
> 
> I have terrible hiss on the headphones input too - have so from day one when I purchased in summer of 2009, hardly ever use headphones so never bothered to send note to Tech Support. Was just using the headphones the other night and it's still there loud and "not" clear. Seems like from a pretty small sample here, many of us have the same hiss issue, and I too have notticed that the hiss does start and stop with when the "digital connection" is made suggesting that something pretty fundamental may be at play here.
> 
> 
> I am going to log this with tech support, and ask that anyone else who also gets hiss through their headphones do the same, that way hopefully we can nudge Anthem to see if there is a software fix and not force us all to send our pre pros in for service (mine is out or warranty too).



Done.


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23155517
> 
> 
> Yep. I suppose I should replace this mess with one cute little box:



Yeah, you should...










I'm thinking of replacing my kit:
 



With this:
 


Won't even need the TV any more, much more tidy










Regards


Russ


----------



## AVfile

LOL, how dare you use vacuum tubes!


----------



## turk 182

OK when your listening to SACD through HDMI how does Bass Management Music come into play. My crossover for movies is set to 60hz and I want a fuller range for my Signature 6`s for music. I can set bass Manage for music at 40hz, but how does AVM50v differentiate music or movie. By the way, when researching OppoBDP 105 alot of people talked about this Diana Krall SACD, I picked it up and it sounds incredible!


----------



## turk 182

And does anyones OSD, display in pink? Went from blue to pink for some reason


----------



## hydrotex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23161930
> 
> 
> ....,,lBy the way, when researching OppoBDP 105 alot of people talked about this Diana Krall SACD, I picked it up and it sounds incredible!



Which Diana Krall SACD?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23161930
> 
> 
> OK when your listening to SACD through HDMI how does Bass Management Music come into play. My crossover for movies is set to 60hz and I want a fuller range for my Signature 6`s for music. I can set bass Manage for music at 40hz, but how does AVM50v differentiate music or movie. By the way, when researching OppoBDP 105 alot of people talked about this Diana Krall SACD, I picked it up and it sounds incredible!



Are you using ARC or are you setting things up manually yourself in Setup? If using ARC you should make changes in the ARC application, re-Calculate and re-Upload. If using ARC do NOT go into Setup afterwards and fiddle with the settings ARC has Uploaded for things like Crossover as the Room Correction parameters ARC Uploads are calculated assuming the matching settings in Setup that ARC Uploaded are also still in place.


Whether you use ARC or not, the Movie and Music configurations for Bass Management differ ONLY in the values you used. The "Movie" and "Music" names are just for convenience; they could have been called "Fred" and "Ethel". For example when using ARC there is no difference in how they are Calculated or they way the resulting solutions are applied during listening.


In Setup > Source Setup for each Source device you get to specify whether that definition should use the Move or Music Bass Management configuration. (There is also a little-used Auto-LFE choice which automatically selects the Movie configuration if the audio input includes an LFE channel -- whether or not there is actually any audio content present on that LFE channel.)


If you have set up your Movie solution for multi-channel audio content (as would be typical for movies) and your Music solution for stereo audio content, then you would typically use the MOVIE solution for playing multi-channel music content such as from SACD discs. Again, these are all choices you make yourself. The Anthem, even when using ARC, has no way of knowing that what you are playing is a movie or some music.


So for example, I have 3 Source setup definitions all of which use my OPPO BDP-105 as the Source device. Two of them use HDMI audio from it, and the third used 5.1 Analog audio from it. One of the HDMI definitions and the 5.1 Analog definition use my ARC solution for Movie. The other HDMI definition uses my ARC solution for Music. I play multi-channel music using either the 5.1 Analog setup or the HDMI setup set to Movie. I play stereo music using either the 5.1 Analog setup or the HDMI setup set to Music. I can use the 5.1 Analog setup for either type of music because the Anthem always sees it as 6 channel input. It has no way to know the silence in the Center and Surround input channels isn't "real". So it doesn't try to apply PLIIx to it or whatever to expand stereo music into the surrounds.


ALL of this stuff is personal preference. There is no patently "right" way to set this stuff up. Use the tools the Anthem provides to do what YOU want to do with the stuff you play.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23161937
> 
> 
> And does anyones OSD, display in pink? Went from blue to pink for some reason



This is an HDMI handshake error. The display thinks it is getting RGB video when you are actually sending YCbCr video. In your Video Output Configuration in Setup, try setting an explicit output choice (YCbCr 4:4:4 would be typical) instead of using Auto. That simplifies the handshake and can help prevent such miscommunication.

--Bob


----------



## RussVC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23159672
> 
> 
> LOL, how dare you use vacuum tubes!










I tried them (2 x Icon Audio MB90 MkII) driving the Mid/treble with Bryston 7B SSTs driving the bass... now gone back to just the Brystons and sold the tubes.


Regards


Russ


----------



## AVfile

Interesting. I have the Bryston monoblocks too (not shown in my pic) and I'm just "down the road" from their facility. Can't imagine the coin it took to bring them across the pond!


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hydrotex*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23162316
> 
> 
> Which Diana Krall SACD?



Look of Love


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40380#post_23162650
> 
> 
> This is an HDMI handshake error. The display thinks it is getting RGB video when you are actually sending YCbCr video. In your Video Output Configuration in Setup, try setting an explicit output choice (YCbCr 4:4:4 would be typical) instead of using Auto. That simplifies the handshake and can help prevent such miscommunication.
> 
> --Bob



Ok well that worked. Nothing but blue screen now. I get it now after fiddling with setting. CD mode on Anthem is already set up in Bass Management Music mode, and Arc has done it`s job there as well. Now I don`t want to mess with ARC setting for movie or my HDMI connection, but with the 2 interconnects or CD mode on Anthem wouldn`t it be better for crossovers for L/R to be set lower than 60hz, or would that mess up ARC settings as well? Also has anyone experienced any static coming through tweeters every now and then with AVM 50v. Only noticed this static after I changed over from NAD T175HD processor and NAD T975 amp. My new amp is Anthem A5.


----------



## studlygoorite

Any thoughts on what might cause this?


Every time I hit the guide button for my CDN Satellite Dish I get a quick flash of green static and I lose picture and sometimes sound. I replaced the satellite receiver and it still does it, I also changed HDMI inputs and replaced the HDMI cable with a Blue Jeans High Speed and I have no automatic settings selected in the D2v. If I press exit my picture comes back, there are no other complaints for this on the CDN Dish Forum.


John


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23165756
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on what might cause this?
> 
> 
> Every time I hit the guide button for my CDN Satellite Dish I get a quick flash of green static and I lose picture and sometimes sound. I replaced the satellite receiver and it still does it, I also changed HDMI inputs and replaced the HDMI cable with a Blue Jeans High Speed and I have no automatic settings selected in the D2v. If I press exit my picture comes back, there are no other complaints for this on the CDN Dish Forum.
> 
> 
> John



Do you need to update firmware for the D2v?


When you lose the image, try switching the D2v to a different input and back to force a new handshake. If you can get the image back, check the Select button displays to see what's coming in for video and audio format, to see if that gives you any clues.


Try switching the input ROW on the D2v. The upper 4 inputs and the lower 4 use different circuits.


If the HDMI from the CDN to the D2v is short, try a 6 foot HDMI cable. Sometimes short cables can cause problems like cables that are too long.

--Bob


----------



## bigdaddy999

Hi. I hope this is in the right spot for feedback. If not, please let me know where I should be posting.


Here's my first run of ARC with a D2, following the instructions for ARC as posted elsewhere on the site. Setup is:


Fronts: B&W N804's

Surrounds: B&W N805's

Center: B&W HTM2

Subs: 2x Velodyne HGS12x (sub filters are not in line, so is direct output from the D2)


Crossover set to 50hz for all speakers. I'm not sure I understand the content of the target window, included below. I manually set the crossovers for all speakers to 50hz. The uploaded parameters appear to be what's in the target window, meaning that the 50hz was ignored and there are different values in the system. Is that the point of the ARC - that it sets optimal crossover points for each speaker as part of the process? And - that I would assume from other comments on this board that I would want to leave that alone? Sorry if this is a dumb question.


Any comments are welcome on the results or suggested changes to the measurements. The db's seem a bit low to me, but maybe that doesn't matter much. The room was otherwise quiet.


Thank you!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You said Crossovers set to 50Hz for all speakers, but that's not what your ARC Targets window shows.


If you changed the Crossover values in Setup AFTER the ARC Upload then that was a mistake. Any changes like that should be made in the Targets window itself. Then re-Calculate and re-Upload (no need to re-Measure).


There are no particular problems in the charts as shown. You could experiment with things like raising Max EQ Frequency a bit to extend correction above the default stopping point of 5KHz. You could also try the Flat setting for the low end of your Sub (Advanced button at the bottom of the Targets window then change the filter from Auto to Flat). You could also experiment with lowering Room Gain a dB if you'd like slightly less bass. But all of these are refinements. Once you've corrected the 50Hz mistake (if indeed you did that) the key is to spend some time listening. It should sound excellent as is.

--Bob


----------



## bigdaddy999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23167474
> 
> 
> ^ You said Crossovers set to 50Hz for all speakers, but that's not what your ARC Targets window shows.
> 
> 
> If you changed the Crossover values in Setup AFTER the ARC Upload then that was a mistake. Any changes like that should be made in the Targets window itself. Then re-Calculate and re-Upload (no need to re-Measure).
> 
> 
> There are no particular problems in the charts as shown. You could experiment with things like raising Max EQ Frequency a bit to extend correction above the default stopping point of 5KHz. You could also try the Flat setting for the low end of your Sub (Advanced button at the bottom of the Targets window then change the filter from Auto to Flat). You could also experiment with lowering Room Gain a dB if you'd like slightly less bass. But all of these are refinements. Once you've corrected the 50Hz mistake (if indeed you did that) the key is to spend some time listening. It should sound excellent as is.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks, Bob. I made the changes to 50hz BEFORE running the ARC, so was reacting to the adjustments that ARC made. I had thought I could force the system to EQ based on the crossovers I set. Now I see I can do that based on the Target panel/recalc/upload process. So thank you for explaining that.


I think I'll do some listening based on what it selected first. Everyone talks about the positive reaction to ARC, so I don't want to try to out-think it before I know how well it's done in the first place! One thing I noticed the first time I listened was that the sound was more focused and also seemed a bit more "forward" tending towards brash. The bass issues in my room was the driver from upgrading from the AVM20 to the D2. Many peaks and suckouts in my largish volume trapezoidal space with some large openings to boot. The "flat" setting might be just the ticket.


Also I focused the measurements around the prime area, running 5 (3 at each seating position on the main couch, plus another one at each end). I would assume that optimizing the measures around what is the only important spot (where *I* sit) is the right approach vs. trying to tame all the sonic demons in the room which I wouldn't hear from that spot, and nobody else gets a vote. Or does ARC improve with more measures further off the target seating area?


Thanks very much!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Right, you just want to sample the seating area, with side to side and forward back differences in mic position, and with all the mic positions spaced out so no two are closer than 2 feet apart (I like to use 30 inches).


Mic position #1 must be in the center of seating as it is the one that sets the volume trims, and subsequent mic positions should alternate either side of #1. Point the mic straight up, with the tip at seated ear height, and keeping the tip away from any blocking/reflective surfaces like seat backs or walls (shift the mic away from those a foot or so if you need to).

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23168302
> 
> 
> Thanks, Bob. I made the changes to 50hz BEFORE running the ARC, so was reacting to the adjustments that ARC made. I had thought I could force the system to EQ based on the crossovers I set. Now I see I can do that based on the Target panel/recalc/upload process. So thank you for explaining that.
> 
> 
> I think I'll do some listening based on what it selected first. Everyone talks about the positive reaction to ARC, so I don't want to try to out-think it before I know how well it's done in the first place! One thing I noticed the first time I listened was that the sound was more focused and also seemed a bit more "forward" tending towards brash. The bass issues in my room was the driver from upgrading from the AVM20 to the D2. Many peaks and suckouts in my largish volume trapezoidal space with some large openings to boot. The "flat" setting might be just the ticket.
> 
> 
> Also I focused the measurements around the prime area, running 5 (3 at each seating position on the main couch, plus another one at each end). I would assume that optimizing the measures around what is the only important spot (where *I* sit) is the right approach vs. trying to tame all the sonic demons in the room which I wouldn't hear from that spot, and nobody else gets a vote. Or does ARC improve with more measures further off the target seating area?
> 
> 
> Thanks very much!



Not so fast Big Daddy










It is important to differentiate between the settings in the setup menu and the ARC settings in the target area.

The setup menu settings ARE the crossovers that ARC installs and adjusts to its recommendations after running ARC.

It is a common recommendation from both users and Anthem that you should not change those crossovers.

The settings in the ARC Target are the cutoffs similar but not the actual crossovers. You can read how Anthem describes them in the information area of the Target just below the subwoofer information.

Since your curves look so good I personally would not change them. Your subs crossover well and the charts indicate your RT and Left speakers integrate well with the subs.


You need all 5 measurements as Anthem states in the instructions so the microphone can pickup some of the reflected sound s etc in the room.


----------



## bigdaddy999

Yes, I did all 5, starting with the prime position, but didn't alternate all of them.


Sequence was this, with 3-1-2 on the couch.


4-3-1-2-5


But I don't really understand the difference between the settings I made in the speaker configuration for the crossovers and what ARC changed. I changed each speaker to 50hz, including the LFE/sub. After ARC, there are no 50's in the menu on the D2, just the target numbers. So it seemed to me that ARC over-wrote those adjustments?


I can't really figure out what they're saying in that Target window info box. Your explanation appears to be saying the same thing - whatever was in those settings is over-written by the ARC upload. Is your point that those 50hz settings used during the initial measurements, then? That would "suggest" the performance of the speakers for the measurement, and the get tweaked from there. If that's the case, I can see keeping the measurements I have rather than starting over. The last statement in the target box suggests using "auto detect", which I am guessing will measure the frequency response for each speaker as an input before measuring? If not 50hz, what would you suggest the D2 settings be BEFORE I run measurements?


My goal for the subs was to be cut off at lower frequencies to minimize any localization effects, I thought I'd max the effective range of the mains (supposedly OK to 42hz, but I selected 50 in the crossover settings before ARC) at the same time. Then the subs could do what they do best, and the mains likewise. Running the subs to 120 seems unnecessary. BUT, the curves look good, but I haven't had time to do some critical listening yet. I am a bit confused, but would love to understand how this works.


Many thanks for your help with this.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ One of the things ARC Uploads is Crossover values in the Setup menu, overwriting whatever was in Setup for those before that. The Crossovers are part of the ARC solution. That's why you can't alter them after the fact in Setup -- the solution depends on those values.


If you want to experiment with DIFFERENT Crossover choices than what ARC selected for you then go into the Targets Window in the ARC app, enter your desired changes, accept those changes, then Calculate (button upper left) and Upload (same place). ARC will build and Upload a *NEW* solution -- as best it can -- based on the Target values you have adjusted, instead of the ones it picked for you.


The values in the Targets window are called Cutoffs and are really a different thing, but the nature of the ARC solution is that for all the main speakers the Crossover value will be set to match the Cutoff value in ARC's Targets window when it does the Calculation. (For the Sub, the Cutoff, and the Uploaded Crossover will typically be different -- you can't force a Crossover value for the Sub because ARC needs the freedom to set that to do its job).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Also, be aware that the Crossover is not a sudden change at that frequency. The Crossover transitions into effect over about an octave (factor of 2 in frequency).


That means if you set a Crossover of 60Hz, your speakers will be expected to contribute quality sound down to around 30Hz. If you set a crossover of 50Hz, your speakers will be expected to contribute down to about 25 Hz. If your speakers are really only good to 40Hz, then the natural Crossover for them would be 80Hz. Evidently, ARC has decided your speakers are better than that.

--Bob


----------



## bigdaddy999

Thanks, Bob.


Yes I was aware of crossover overlap, but hadn't thought about the degree of "expected performance" - like down to 25hz if I selected 50. But ARC put in 60 as a result of the measurements for the mains. I just checked the unit again, and the sub was set by ARC at 65 for xover.


The other setting that got changed was "2-subs" to "1-sub". I have the two subs wired off both sub outputs. Both subs work, so I guess the manual is not right about 2-sub being used to drive both sub line outputs.


What I'm taking away from this discussion is that what I put into the crossover fields pre-measurement didn't really matter since with an ARC-enabled unit, the ARC will select those values as part of the calculation, and then upload them. I'm good with that.... Time to listen!


Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

1-Sub is required when using ARC regardless of whether you have more than 1 Sub. That's also in the Manual, but it is easy to miss.


All the 1-Sub vs. 2-Sub setting does is change the way the Sub volume trim value is applied. The value ARC Uploads is calculated assuming 1-Sub will be set.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23170223
> 
> 
> All the 1-Sub vs. 2-Sub setting does is change the way the Sub volume trim value is applied.



What are the different ways the sub trim can be applied, and is it ok to change it after ARC solution is uploaded?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23170497
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23170223
> 
> 
> All the 1-Sub vs. 2-Sub setting does is change the way the Sub volume trim value is applied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are the different ways the sub trim can be applied, and is it ok to change it after ARC solution is uploaded?
Click to expand...


I recommend you leave the Sub volume trim (Setup > Level Calibration) as ARC Uploaded it. If you feel the need to adjust Sub output for particular content, you can do that with the "temporary" volume trim buttons on the remote (just above the digits). See Section 4.6 in the Manual. Such "temporary" changes do not alter the values in Setup > Level Calibration. IMPORTANT NOTE: These "temporary" settings are remember per type of Input Format, NOT per Source. So a change you make for DTS-HD MA input, for example, will apply to ANY Source feeding that Bitstream.


If you get confused about what you have set with the "temporary" settings, you can reset ALL of them at one go as follows:


Go into Setup and

1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue using the Front Panel Display.

3) Reload Saved User Settings


Since the "temporary" settings are not Saved, this Resets all of them.



If instead of a content specific adjustment like this you feel that ARC has built too much or too little bass into your solution altogether, I suggest you approach that by changing Targets > Room Gain up or down a couple dB. Then re-Calculate and re-Upload. No need to re-Measure. This is mostly appropriate if you think you are getting too MUCH bass (i.e., adjust Room Gain down). On the charts, Room Gain is the shallow hump in the Target and Calculated curves near and below the Crossover frequencies. The Room Gain value is simply the height, in dB, of the peak of that hump over the normal volume level of the curve for that speaker. The effect of Room Gain on what you hear is exactly what you would expect from the shape and height of that hump.


If, on the other hand, you feel you are getting too LITTLE bass (despite the Sub's Calculated curve looking good in ARC), the first thing you should do is verify that the Polarity and Phase of your Sub are properly set to match your main speakers. Since the mains and sub are BOTH playing the same bass at the same time through the octave below the Crossover frequency, if the Sub is out of Phase with the mains you can get phase cancellation. This would sound like anemic bass.


If you only have ONE Subwoofer, you can correct Polarity and Phase for that Sub without having to redo ARC -- your existing ARC solution will just sound better. But if you have MORE than one Sub, and adjust Polarity or Phase in any of them, then you need to re-Measure for ARC as the adjustment you made will alter the combined bass output of the Subs playing together -- which is what ARC hears during Measurement.


As always, if this is your first experience with ARC do not jump to the conclusion that ARC has made a mistake you need to fix. It may simply be that you are not used to listening to properly calibrated audio in your room. Give it some time, before you make "fixes" to what ARC has done. And then periodically go back to what ARC did on its own to reconfirm your "fixes" really are better. But the basic stuff like entering proper speaker distances and setting proper Polarity/Phase for your Sub are your responsibility. ARC can't set those.

--Bob


----------



## xMEATx

I have been reading a lot about the antimode 8033. One of the claims I keep running into is it "corrects in the time domain". Is that something arc does as well? I am wondering if a $400 stand alone unit can improve on arc or not. Does anyone have thoughts or experience with the antimode and arc?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40400_100#post_23171524
> 
> 
> I have been reading a lot about the antimode 8033. One of the claims I keep running into is it "corrects in the time domain". Is that something arc does as well? I am wondering if a $400 stand alone unit can improve on arc or not. Does anyone have thoughts or experience with the antimode and arc?


*NO* is my 2¢ Opinion


----------



## xMEATx

Thanks, drhankz.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23167048
> 
> 
> Do you need to update firmware for the D2v?
> 
> 
> When you lose the image, try switching the D2v to a different input and back to force a new handshake. If you can get the image back, check the Select button displays to see what's coming in for video and audio format, to see if that gives you any clues.
> 
> 
> Try switching the input ROW on the D2v. The upper 4 inputs and the lower 4 use different circuits.
> 
> 
> If the HDMI from the CDN to the D2v is short, try a 6 foot HDMI cable. Sometimes short cables can cause problems like cables that are too long.
> 
> --Bob



Firmware is 3.09f, picture will come back after switching inputs and back but goes out after a second or two (with the guide on) video and audio do not fluctuate. It does it on the top row (new HDMI board) and bottom row and the HDMI cable is 6'. Interesting though is that when I get the guide up and it goes out if I hold the #7 button down on the D2v to get the OSD my picture comes back and stays back as long as the OSD is on, when I hit exit to get rid of the OSD the picture goes out, every time.


John


----------



## turk 182

My AVM 50v has stopped working in DTS-HD I can only get PCM while watching movie. Oppo display says DTS-HD so I don`t think it`s Oppo. Any thoughts? Played multiple blu ray discs and all of them playback through PCM. The Avengers, Dark knight Rises, Harry Potter 7. All are DTS-HD and only PCM comes out of Anthem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23172429
> 
> 
> My AVM 50v has stopped working in DTS-HD I can only get PCM while watching movie. Oppo display says DTS-HD so I don`t think it`s Oppo. Any thoughts? Played multiple blu ray discs and all of them playback through PCM. The Avengers, Dark knight Rises, Harry Potter 7. All are DTS-HD and only PCM comes out of Anthem.



Set HDMI Audio Bitstream in the OPPO. What the OPPO is displaying is the input -- the track being read off the disc -- not it's output to the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23172189
> 
> 
> Firmware is 3.09f, picture will come back after switching inputs and back but goes out after a second or two (with the guide on) video and audio do not fluctuate. It does it on the top row (new HDMI board) and bottom row and the HDMI cable is 6'. Interesting though is that when I get the guide up and it goes out if I hold the #7 button down on the D2v to get the OSD my picture comes back and stays back as long as the OSD is on, when I hit exit to get rid of the OSD the picture goes out, every time.
> 
> 
> John


Give Anthem Tech Support a call and see what they say. They may ask you to install firmware V3.09h, although I don't think there are any changes in it that would affect your problem. This is an odd one. I don't recall anyone else here reporting what you are reporting.

--Bob


----------



## jerbob

Hi everyone, I am hoping that someone who has the 50V set up with a 7.1 speaker system and is using beta firmware 3.09h could look at something for me. I have a 50V using balanced outputs to a Cary 7 channel amp. I have a Oppo 93 blu-ray player connected to HDMI1 and a Panasonic 500 blu-ray player connected to HDMI2. I am using “bitstream” to output audio and I get the same results with both players. I did switch the Oppo to “PCM” as a test and still got the same result.


If I try to watch a blu-ray movie that is encoded with DTS HD Master audio 5.1, my 50V shows that it is receiving 5.1 audio from the player but it is outputting 7.1 audio and indeed it is as I have sound from the rear speakers. It does not matter if I have the mode settings on “NONE” or “LAST USED” I still get sound from the rear speakers.


I don’t see anyone talking about this problem, so I don’t really know if it is a bug in the beta firmware or I have something screwed up in my settings. I’ve gone over my settings many times and everything looks okay to me but you never know.


If you have a 7.1 system and are using 3.09h firmware, I would appreciate it if you could check the audio input and output while watching a DTS HD Master 5.1 movie. Press “SELECT” repeatedly on your Anthem remote to check to processor’s status.


----------



## AVfile

Hi,


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23172963
> 
> 
> I am using “bitstream” to output audio and I get the same results with both players. I did switch the Oppo to “PCM” as a test and still got the same result.
> 
> 
> If I try to watch a blu-ray movie that is encoded with DTS HD Master audio 5.1, my 50V shows that it is receiving 5.1 audio from the player but it is outputting 7.1 audio and indeed it is as I have sound from the rear speakers. It does not matter if I have the mode settings on “NONE” or “LAST USED” I still get sound from the rear speakers.



I have a 50v with the same firmware. The status indicates 7.1 (LS LR RR RS) but there is no sound coming from the rears when playing PCM, TrueHD, or DTS HD MA 5.1. It would appear to be a display bug. It doesn’t do it with DD 5.1.


I normally use PLIIX so I would never have noticed this. Nice find, but surprised you are hearing sound too.


In SETUP - 3. Speaker Config I have d. REARS set to Direct, in case that matters.


Stefan


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23172189
> 
> 
> Firmware is 3.09f, picture will come back after switching inputs and back but goes out after a second or two (with the guide on) video and audio do not fluctuate. It does it on the top row (new HDMI board) and bottom row and the HDMI cable is 6'. Interesting though is that when I get the guide up and it goes out if I hold the #7 button down on the D2v to get the OSD my picture comes back and stays back as long as the OSD is on, when I hit exit to get rid of the OSD the picture goes out, every time.
> 
> 
> John



Is your video output in the D2v set to THROUGH? The sat box may be switching format when you activate the guide. What does the VXP INFO page (in the #7 menu) say about the incoming signal?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23170223
> 
> 
> All the 1-Sub vs. 2-Sub setting does is change the way the Sub volume trim value is applied. The value ARC Uploads is calculated assuming 1-Sub will be set.
> 
> --Bob



The manual says it simply reduces the sub channel's test noise level to compensate for using both sub outputs (not applicable with ARC). Nothing about volume trims, but I was hoping for a way to increase the LFE trim specifically (not the entire channel).


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23172786
> 
> 
> Set HDMI Audio Bitstream in the OPPO. What the OPPO is displaying is the input -- the track being read off the disc -- not it's output to the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob



Did that and I still got PCM. Shut it off for awhile and DTS-HD came back, fixed it self. However, just borrowed The Dark Knight and can only get Dolby Digital not DD-HD. Could it be a HDMI handshake issue? When I play a movie I have to mute my tv, could Anthem be getting confused by that? Is there a way to shut off audio in HDMI out and just have video?


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23173817
> 
> 
> Did that and I still got PCM. Shut it off for awhile and DTS-HD came back, fixed it self. However, just borrowed The Dark Knight and can only get Dolby Digital not DD-HD. Could it be a HDMI handshake issue? When I play a movie I have to mute my tv, could Anthem be getting confused by that? Is there a way to shut off audio in HDMI out and just have video?


If you temporarily unplug the HDMI feeding the TV, then select something else then switch back to the BD player input, does it then enable TrueHD? If not, then the TV is not involved.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23173817
> 
> 
> Did that and I still got PCM. Shut it off for awhile and DTS-HD came back, fixed it self. However, just borrowed The Dark Knight and can only get Dolby Digital not DD-HD. Could it be a HDMI handshake issue? When I play a movie I have to mute my tv, could Anthem be getting confused by that? Is there a way to shut off audio in HDMI out and just have video?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23174250
> 
> 
> If you temporarily unplug the HDMI feeding the TV, then select something else then switch back to the BD player input, does it then enable TrueHD? If not, then the TV is not involved.



I believe your experiencing the EDID code on the HDMI cable to the TV . The TV is signaling the Anthem AVM 50 that it is 2 channel and the Anthem is then

switching to 2 channel PCM.

Does your TV have the ability in its preferences or setup to turn off the audio ?

And in your Anthem setup check to make sure that the source is setup to receive HDMI for the Audio input.


----------



## AVfile

Here's another one for you. Tried to listen to music today and don't get any audio unless the display is turned on. Pretty sure this is new since the 3D/bypass board upgrade.


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23174294
> 
> 
> 
> I believe your experiencing the EDID code on the HDMI cable to the TV . The TV is signaling the Anthem AVM 50 that it is 2 channel and the Anthem is then
> 
> switching to 2 channel PCM.
> 
> Does your TV have the ability in its preferences or setup to turn off the audio ?
> 
> And in your Anthem setup check to make sure that the source is setup to receive HDMI for the Audio input.




Full disclosure here, turns out it was just out of gas! The Dark Knight needs to be set to DDHD in discs set up menu....my bad. Once I did that, amazingly I got DDHD. Still would like to turn off audio from HDMI out on Anthem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23172963
> 
> 
> Hi everyone, I am hoping that someone who has the 50V set up with a 7.1 speaker system and is using beta firmware 3.09h could look at something for me. I have a 50V using balanced outputs to a Cary 7 channel amp. I have a Oppo 93 blu-ray player connected to HDMI1 and a Panasonic 500 blu-ray player connected to HDMI2. I am using “bitstream” to output audio and I get the same results with both players. I did switch the Oppo to “PCM” as a test and still got the same result.
> 
> 
> If I try to watch a blu-ray movie that is encoded with DTS HD Master audio 5.1, my 50V shows that it is receiving 5.1 audio from the player but it is outputting 7.1 audio and indeed it is as I have sound from the rear speakers. It does not matter if I have the mode settings on “NONE” or “LAST USED” I still get sound from the rear speakers.
> 
> 
> I don’t see anyone talking about this problem, so I don’t really know if it is a bug in the beta firmware or I have something screwed up in my settings. I’ve gone over my settings many times and everything looks okay to me but you never know.
> 
> 
> If you have a 7.1 system and are using 3.09h firmware, I would appreciate it if you could check the audio input and output while watching a DTS HD Master 5.1 movie. Press “SELECT” repeatedly on your Anthem remote to check to processor’s status.



I know it seems odd, but this is actually DTS' required decoding for DTS-HD MA 5.1 tracks played in a 7.1 speaker configuration. DTS just loves to do weird stuff like this.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23174428
> 
> 
> Here's another one for you. Tried to listen to music today and don't get any audio unless the display is turned on. Pretty sure this is new since the 3D/bypass board upgrade.



What's your Source device and what type of audio is it sending to the Anthem. If HDMI LPCM or Bitstream, when you turn the display off there should be a couple seconds of muting for the new handshake and then the audio should continue. For Analog audio there shouldn't even be that handshake pause.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23172793
> 
> 
> Give Anthem Tech Support a call and see what they say. They may ask you to install firmware V3.09h, although I don't think there are any changes in it that would affect your problem. This is an odd one. I don't recall anyone else here reporting what you are reporting.
> 
> --Bob



Just my luck, thanks for your help.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40410#post_23173732
> 
> 
> Is your video output in the D2v set to THROUGH? The sat box may be switching format when you activate the guide. What does the VXP INFO page (in the #7 menu) say about the incoming signal?



D2v is not set to Through, Video Source shows HDMI YCbCr444, signal type shows 1920x1080i/60Hz but I see the Film Mode switching between On and Off constantly even if it is turned off or on.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23174669
> 
> 
> I know it seems odd, but this is actually DTS' required decoding for DTS-HD MA 5.1 tracks played in a 7.1 speaker configuration. DTS just loves to do weird stuff like this.


I thought that this remapping issue was solved with 3.09. (By "solved" I mean they let it be turned off.) It certainly does not happen in my "other Canadian brand" AV processor, nor the Oppo BDP-93 HDMI output when it does the decoding.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Nope. The mapping is ON, as DTS required.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23174669
> 
> 
> I know it seems odd, but this is actually DTS' required decoding for DTS-HD MA 5.1 tracks played in a 7.1 speaker configuration. DTS just loves to do weird stuff like this.
> 
> --Bob



Like I said the phenomenon also occurs with Dolby TrueHD and PCM 5.1. There is no sound coming from the rear speakers despite the indication.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23174676
> 
> 
> What's your Source device and what type of audio is it sending to the Anthem. If HDMI LPCM or Bitstream, when you turn the display off there should be a couple seconds of muting for the new handshake and then the audio should continue. For Analog audio there shouldn't even be that handshake pause.
> 
> --Bob



Oppo 83 HDMI LPCM. No sound with disc playing, then sound starts when display (Lumagen Radiance) is turned on. Sound does not stop or pause when display is turned off.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23174936
> 
> 
> D2v is not set to Through, Video Source shows HDMI YCbCr444, signal type shows 1920x1080i/60Hz but I see the Film Mode switching between On and Off constantly even if it is turned off or on.



Definitely give this info to Anthem as Bob suggested, but also try this and let us/them know the results:


In Video Output Config set format to match the input (444) and disable deep color, use 8-bit, HDTV color space.

In the VXP menu you can try forcing input format to 444 instead of Auto. Try setting deinterlacing mode to film or video instead of Auto.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23175399
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23174669
> 
> 
> I know it seems odd, but this is actually DTS' required decoding for DTS-HD MA 5.1 tracks played in a 7.1 speaker configuration. DTS just loves to do weird stuff like this.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said the phenomenon also occurs with Dolby TrueHD and PCM 5.1. There is no sound coming from the rear speakers despite the indication.
Click to expand...


What firmware are you using. What I was describing was with respect to V3.09h. There is a recent bug fix for incorrectly showed 7.1 speaker output when 5.1 was actually happening. But the DTS-HD MA situation is different, and unique.

--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23175474
> 
> 
> Definitely give this info to Anthem as Bob suggested, but also try this and let us/them know the results:
> 
> 
> In Video Output Config set format to match the input (444) and disable deep color, use 8-bit, HDTV color space.
> 
> In the VXP menu you can try forcing input format to 444 instead of Auto. Try setting deinterlacing mode to film or video instead of Auto.



Switching from 10 bit to 8 bit fixed it, thanks for this.


John


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23175557
> 
> 
> What firmware are you using. What I was describing was with respect to V3.09h. There is a recent bug fix for incorrectly showed 7.1 speaker output when 5.1 was actually happening. But the DTS-HD MA situation is different, and unique.
> 
> --Bob



3.09h and I confirmed the other bugs are fixed. Perhaps they forgot to fix this one in the 50v codebase. I will let Andrew know.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23175576
> 
> 
> Switching from 10 bit to 8 bit fixed it, thanks for this.
> 
> 
> John



Glad to hear it


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23175394
> 
> 
> ^ Nope. The mapping is ON, as DTS required.
> 
> --Bob


I just got an Outlaw 975. It as a menu that lets one switch it on and off.


ETA: Let me clarify: It is not On and Off, but between speaker setup "1 and 5" which the manual describes:


> Quote:
> A setting of 1 should be selected if your surround L/R speakers are placed to the sides of the listening position. A setting of 5 should be selected if your surround speakers are located behind the listener, just outside of the surround back speakers.


I need to do some testing to see how these react with different sources.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Turning it off is an option, but the consequences are worse. ON makes the best of a weird situation.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23177041
> 
> 
> Turning it off is an option, but the consequences are worse. ON makes the best of a weird situation.
> 
> --Bob


So 3.09 turned mapping off and the subsequent betas turned it on again, is that correct?


As far as I can remember the issue here was not the mapping itself but the lack channel configuration options in the D2v. For example the mapping is occurring because anthem has preset the configuration to have the side surrounds at 110 degrees or something and DTS config to ensure no remapping was with side surrounds at 90 degrees or something. So there was a discrepancy hence channel mapping was occurring. If anthem set the configuration to the same as DTS standard no mapping would occur and they would still be within spec.


If anthem want this feature enabled then they should include a speaker position configuration in the menu so the mapping will actually occur based on the reality of the users configuration, and not on their guess of users configuration. Either use it properly or don't use it at all, or at least allow the option to disengage it when the users configuration is not what they have set it to be.


As a result I have not and will not update my fw past 3.09 until this issue is fully resolved.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ V3.09h has mapping ON with the speakers positioned as DTS requires.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350

I'm not saying anthem should turn it OFF again, what I'm saying is if they are going to engage it without a user option to disable it they should have options in the menu to change the output speaker placement configuration..........without that the mapping feature is doing a disservice for all configurations other than the one anthem set(as it is in my case)


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Such is DTS. DTS never carried through on this cunning scheme of theirs. Like I said, it's a weird, half-baked situation, but Anthem can't "improve" it without running afoul of DTS certification (which includes tests for truly bizarre track authoring that's never likely to ever actually show up on any disc). There's just enough oddity out there in real discs that mapping ON is the better solution.

--Bob


----------



## jerbob

AVfile, my rear speakers are set as “DIRECT” like yours. But unlike your setup I do have sound coming from the rears even though my Oppo is sending 5.1. It’s probably the same sound that is being sent to my side speakers but it’s hard to tell.


Bob, thanks for the info on the DTS specs, good to know even though I don’t feel that it is right. But I did not mention in my original post that in addition to my DTS HD Master question, when my blu-ray players bitstream Dolby Digital “L R” as found on some previews, my 50v shows that it is receiving “L R” but it is sending 7.1. Even if my mode setting for “2.0 SUR” is set as “STEREO” or “LAST USED” However, Dolby Digital 5.1 plays back properly. This is all happening with firmware 309h.


Thanks to all of you for your input. Reading this thread almost every day has been a tremendous help for me. I purchased my 50V used a little over 2 years ago and it is a little disappointing to be still fooling around with this unit to try to get it to work properly. I’m to the point where I just want to sit back and enjoy it.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23178710
> 
> 
> it is a little disappointing to be still fooling around with this unit to try to get it to work properly. I’m to the point where I just want to sit back and enjoy it.



Then just report the bugs to Anthem and turn on PLIIx and enjoy it


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23177115
> 
> 
> So 3.09 turned mapping off and the subsequent betas turned it on again, is that correct?
> 
> 
> As far as I can remember the issue here was not the mapping itself but the lack channel configuration options in the D2v. For example the mapping is occurring because anthem has preset the configuration to have the side surrounds at 110 degrees or something and DTS config to ensure no remapping was with side surrounds at 90 degrees or something. So there was a discrepancy hence channel mapping was occurring. If anthem set the configuration to the same as DTS standard no mapping would occur and they would still be within spec.



Are we talking about the same thing? I thought the 110 degrees to 90 degrees conversion (which causes side channel to bleed into the fronts) was gone for good. However release notes in subsequent 3.09 betas did contain vague wording about some unspecified DTS changes. I never saw anyone say their fronts are bleeding again, post 3.09.


Then there is the duplication of sides into rears that we just started talking about, which seems like a new bug in the D2v, but my 50v is NOT doing this. There is no sound coming from the rear speakers when a 5.1 channel signal of any kind is playing, as it should be.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23177926
> 
> 
> Anthem can't "improve" it without running afoul of DTS certification



Bob, do you agree or disagree with this statement?


> Quote:
> if they are going to engage it without a user option to disable it they should have options in the menu to change the output speaker placement configuration



It seems like a reasonable thing to say, and I don't see how that would invalidate anything, but I don't know what you mean by "the consequences are worse".


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23178810
> 
> 
> Are we talking about the same thing? I thought the 110 degrees to 90 degrees conversion (which causes side channel to bleed into the fronts) was gone for good. However release notes in subsequent 3.09 betas did contain vague wording about some unspecified DTS changes. I never saw anyone say their fronts are bleeding again, post 3.09.


Maybe no one tested for it. As soon as I heard the mapping was switched back on in the post 3.09 beta fw I decided not to update past the official 3.09 fw.


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23178840
> 
> 
> It seems like a reasonable thing to say, and I don't see how that would invalidate anything, but I don't know what you mean by "the consequences are worse".


For example if your speaker configuration is not what the anthem expects. From memory anthem set side surrounds at 110 degrees for this DTS mapping config. As I recall this DTS mapping has the standard set with side surrounds at 90 degrees. So any DTS mix in the DTS standard config(which is most, if not all) would cause the anthem to drop the front LR channels by -3dB and mix some of the side surround content into the front LR. Why, because in doing this it shifts the image from side surround speakers placed at 110 degrees to sound more like its coming from a phantom spot around 90 degrees.


The problem is that the anthem is assuming that every setup has their side surrounds at 110 degrees so every track will cause this mapping to occure even if in reality the speakers are placed at 90 degrees, in which case it's mapping when it should not........ie the consequence is worse than with this mapping switched off.


If anthem want to stay in spec with DTS all they have to do is change their output config to the DTS standard config. Then the result will be the same as switching this mapping feature off yet they'll still be in DTS spec, which is probably how most manufactures set their config.


Cheers


----------



## p.las

Running 3.09h on my avm50v. I have a 7.2 setup. The 90-110 degreas issue is not back. Tested it on aix test disc. But sound from side surrounds id dublicatet in to the surround rears. Will this not course som phase issues?


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23179217
> 
> 
> Running 3.09h on my avm50v. I have a 7.2 setup. The 90-110 degreas issue is not back. Tested it on aix test disc. But sound from side surrounds id dublicatet in to the surround rears. Will this not course som phase issues?


So the front LR channels are not down by -3dB and there's no side surround content being mapped into the front LR channels? Though I don't recall if the issue was present on the avm50v.


Hmm, sides being duplicated into the rears. Won't really cause phase issues, unless the signal phase is inverted for the rears. It's not ideal as PLIIx is superior to simple duplication of the sides into rears. Is this issue also present in the d2v?


Cheers


----------



## AVfile

You must have missed the discussion on duplication. I thought it was only doing it in the D2v because my 50v isn't, but Peter's 50v apparently is doing it. Weird!


The now fixed DTS issues were definitely common to both models.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23182108
> 
> 
> You must have missed the discussion on duplication. I thought it was only doing it in the D2v because my 50v isn't, but Peter's 50v apparently is doing it. Weird!
> 
> 
> The now fixed DTS issues were definitely common to both models.


Yeah I haven't paid much attention to this new beta fw DTS issue since I've been happy to sit on the official 3.09 fw. The only issue with it is random audio muting requiring a reboot.


Cheers


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23178810
> 
> 
> Are we talking about the same thing? I thought the 110 degrees to 90 degrees conversion (which causes side channel to bleed into the fronts) was gone for good. However release notes in subsequent 3.09 betas did contain vague wording about some unspecified DTS changes. I never saw anyone say their fronts are bleeding again, post 3.09.


I get the feeling that Anthem was originally using DTS mode 5, where the surrounds are at 110 deg, and have now changed to mode 1, where the surrounds are at 90 deg. Mode 1 is the "standard" for 7.1 per DTS (among others). Mode 1 eliminates the mixing of the surrounds into the fronts, and instead shifts it to the rear speakers, to create the phantom image between the sides/rears as MACCA350 already explained.


It might cause some combing depending on the delay offsets relative to the listener. Listen to something with applause in the surrounds, then lean forward/back and see if you hear a flanging effect. If so, stagger the delay a little, like add 5 ms to the rears.


> Quote:
> Then there is the duplication of sides into rears that we just started talking about, which seems like a new bug in the D2v, but my 50v is NOT doing this. There is no sound coming from the rear speakers when a 5.1 channel signal of any kind is playing, as it should be.


If it is happening with DTS signals (best to try HD MA 5.1 content, as sometimes the older DTS signals do not trigger the remapping behavior), then it is because of the remapping, not a bug.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23182108
> 
> 
> You must have missed the discussion on duplication. I thought it was only doing it in the D2v because my 50v isn't, but Peter's 50v apparently is doing it. Weird!
> 
> 
> The now fixed DTS issues were definitely common to both models.



don't you have the side/rear mapping "issue" ?


----------



## p.las

it woud be nice , if it was possible to choose between Mode 1 and 5. is it not possible to implemented ? maby there coud bee two different firmwares . one mode 1 firmware. And another whit mode 5 firmware.


----------



## p.las

DTS remapping.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1123436/dts-remapping


----------



## p.las

this new Remapping thing (side and rears) is it only in firmware 3.09h. Then i will go back to a firmware that dosent have this remapping thing. does remapping affect PLII2x?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This is entirely and exclusively a DTS problem. Their scheme was half-baked from the beginning and has never seen fruition. You are left with remnants.


It's all well and good to suggest that Anthem add "options", but I don't think anybody has implemented a decoder that would handle such options for ALL the encoding possibilities DTS insists get handled (including encoding schemes I don't think anyone in their right mind would ever actually put on disc, but are still part of certification). There's a REASON this stuff was never fully implemented. It's nuts.


As things stand, if you have a 7.1 physical configuration DTS wants decoders to assume the side speakers are at 90. If you have a 5.1 physical speaker configuration, DTS wants decoders to assume the side speakers are at 110.


If you play 5.1 content in a 7.1 speaker configuration, the most common encoding for the 5.1 content -- BUT BY NO MEANS THE ONLY ENCODING -- assumes the side speakers are at 110. Thus the content, in this most common encoding scheme, assumes the side speakers of the content are BEHIND the assumed physical position of the sides in your 7.1 speaker configuration. And DTS mapping says that means you will get 7.1 speaker output -- with the sides from the content rendered into BOTH the sides and rears of the physical 7.1 configuration. Since you are ALREADY getting 7.1 output from the decoder, surround sound algorithms like PLIIx have nothing to do and don't activate.


That's with mapping ON. If you turn mapping off to avoid that, you run afoul of the OTHER styles of encoding such as 7.1 encodes where the "sides" aren't really sides at all. They are "wide fronts" outside the normal LF/RF span. The REARS in that encode are actually the sides. It's nuts that DTS allows -- at one point even encouraged -- such encodes when the decoding scheme wasn't fully deployed, but that's just DTS for you.


Anthem is not playing games here. They are stuck with doing what DTS requires for certification. OPPO has to deal with precisely the same nonsense in their DTS decodes.


V3.09h is the firmware version that passes DTS certification.

--Bob


----------



## p.las

Okay Bob . I Can see that things inn DTS land are wery complicaded. I have a 7.2 setup , where the side surrounds are located 110 degredes behind listener. What di YOU Think Will be the right thing for me too do? Keep ind mind that my side and rears is very Close to the listener - 3.4feed . Becurse of that, i am using tripole side and rear speaker , from mksound


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I think you should stick with V3.09h and not change a thing.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40470#post_23182351
> 
> 
> this new Remapping thing (side and rears) is it only in firmware 3.09h. Then i will go back to a firmware that dosent have this remapping thing. does remapping affect PLII2x?


Just so you are aware, if you decode the DTS audio in the BD player, the remapping in the Anthem is non-existent.


----------



## turk 182

Is anyone having issues with Dolby Digital-HD. Both Dark Knight and Ironman sounded very restrained through my AVM 50V and Oppo 105. I had to turn off TDK because it just didn`t sound that good. Just tried Ironman, which i am very familiar with and that sounded half as good as I remember. The cave seen in Ironman especially sounded bad. I`ve used that scene for years to show off my system to friends and now I`d be embarrassed. Both Anthem and Oppo are new since I`ve seen Ironman. DTS-HD sounds very good. Anyone experienced this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40470#post_23185323
> 
> 
> Is anyone having issues with Dolby Digital-HD. Both Dark Knight and Ironman sounded very restrained through my AVM 50V and Oppo 105. I had to turn off TDK because it just didn`t sound that good. Just tried Ironman, which i am very familiar with and that sounded half as good as I remember. The cave seen in Ironman especially sounded bad. I`ve used that scene for years to show off my system to friends and now I`d be embarrassed. Both Anthem and Oppo are new since I`ve seen Ironman. DTS-HD sounds very good. Anyone experienced this?



In the OPPO, check that Secondary Audio is OFF (if you are using Bitstream output), that DTS Neo:6 Mode is OFF, and that Dynamic Range Control is OFF.


In the Anthem, check that Dolby Volume is OFF for that Source and that Room EQ is ON after you've completed your ARC setup.


Try both HDMI Bitstream and HDMI LPCM output from the OPPO to see if there's a difference.

--Bob


----------



## turk 182

Thank you Bob


----------



## turk 182

It all checks out Bob. I changed to LPCM from bitstream and sounds about the same. While typing this Ironman was playing and if anyone has an ass kicking sub you know the cave scene, and it was very disappointing, used to rattle my walls and now my walls have finally won.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ There is almost certainly some silly setup error at work here. Check your levels with a calibration disc and an SPL meter. Perhaps you made adjustments in Setup after Uploading your ARC configuration? You can re-Upload your existing ARC solution if you are not sure.

--Bob


----------



## bigdaddy999

Hi folks. I’m having some problems with a D2 and dropped video outputs. The unit was recently repaired by Anthem for video issues, new HDMI board, power supply, other stuff as they checked it out, so I am assuming I have config or cabling issues, and hopefully not “D2” issues.


Gear:

• D2 w/ARC,

• NAD DVD (component video)

• Panny Blu-Ray BD85K (HDMI) – Using YBlCr4:4:4

• Latest Verizon FIOS Cable box / DVR (HDMI) - Using YBlCr4:4:4

• Sony XBR9 TV (1080p native)

• HDMI Cables are all “high speed” HDMI 1.3 and some are monoprice redmere’s (I’ve tried all combos of these in the system and doesn’t seem to change things)

• Audio is via HDMI for those two sources

• All source units display perfectly going direct to the TV using the same cables


Symptoms


• Turning on the system via remote macro when source is set to the cable box may result in sound, but no picture. >50% of the time, no picture.

• The Anthem logo comes up, goes away and then comes up again. Is that normal?

• If I have a cable box picture, then switch to DVD or bluray, I may get sound, no picture. Sound will cut in and out a few times before staying on

• When there’s no source image on the TV, there’s generally the volume at the bottom and I think I can always pull up the On Screen (key 7), which seems odd. That box is appropriately larger or smaller depending on the output resolution, so it appears that the TV is GETTING that signal, just without the source being routed through

• Going into the On-Screen config (7 on remote) and back out usually sets the picture. Sometimes I can get that and NO picture, but the Info status seems to be that the D2 is sending out a 1080p/60 signal (as reported in the screen), yet no programming image is there, just the sound. Other times, the Info screen just shows that there’s sound input and no video input (and all of the menus are greyed out). It’s just interesting that the image of the menu box is scaling to the right resolution

• Max D2 options for upscaling the DVD source is now only 1080i, not 1080p. Shouldn’t 1080p be available for any component input for upscaling? I think it WAS a few days ago but maybe I’m wrong. Could this vary with different DVD’s?

• Sometimes switching sources will set the picture, sometimes not. Mostly switching sources results in no image, but it's not consistent.

• D2 has locked up a couple of times, needing a reboot

• I can always get to the setup menus (blue/white screens), but sometimes it takes a long time to show up


Fixes attempted

• For HDMI have tried different cables in all locations, no difference

• For input video / video setup – have forced the settings to the 4:4:4, to match what I see on the On-screen window for the two HDMI sources. Auto didn’t seem to impact things either way, but now I am not using “auto” for any of the data or video-out settings

• I’ve minimized any video processing options on the source devices (DVD is now outputting 480i, not 480p)

• All three sources are set up on their own video settings (1,2,3) with appropriate settings in the Video output section

• I have saved everything into user settings, of course

• Changed XBR9 input to “Full Pixel”, which I think means no processing inside the TV


Questions

• What is typical for the time to “lock” and handshake with HDMI on the D2? 30 seconds? How about for a change from HDMI to component input?

• Are there particular settings that will work with the XBR9? It’s natively 1080p, but…..?

• Should I be able to take a DVD player at 480i and upscale to the TV at 1080p as an option?

• Any other settings I should investigate on the On Screen for each source that might be affecting things? I don’t see anything there that would make me think there are issues.

• Would powering up the units in different order make a difference? The Anthem takes a while, as does the TV (internet stuff, etc). Might help on startup, but won’t on source switching, so I’ve not played with this a lot since I’m not convinced anything would change.


Thanks very much for your help.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40470#post_23184413
> 
> 
> Just so you are aware, if you decode the DTS audio in the BD player, the remapping in the Anthem is non-existent.



yes - but i think the only thing to do is too test it....PLIIx vs the re-mapping thing vs no matrixen at all. from what i can recall , PLIIx vs no matrix to 7.1 , sounds like PLIIx add som ambience, that isent there from the start


----------



## p.las

i will try to run some test - DTS remapping vs PLIIx. the basic problem is , if PLIIx is the way to go for matrix DTS HDMR 5.1 to 7.1 , you have to use PCM from the player.it is not possible to run PLIIx on top of the RE-mapping thing


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40470#post_23185664
> 
> 
> ^ There is almost certainly some silly setup error at work here. Check your levels with a calibration disc and an SPL meter. Perhaps you made adjustments in Setup after Uploading your ARC configuration? You can re-Upload your existing ARC solution if you are not sure.
> 
> --Bob




I hope so. I shot off an e-mail to Andrew at Anthem, and hopefully he has a quick fix. I didn`t change anything with ARC, I took everyones advice and left all that alone. I think it could be Oppo, mine has been very finicky. Doesn`t want to start right away, having to turn it off and on to play. These issues i`m having have all been with older blu-ray discs, and I use a new Nordost Blue Haven 1.4 HDMI cable, do you think there is any correlation there.


----------



## turk 182

Also I forget what set up mode it is in the Anthem but there is like a,b,c,d,e and all are set to dolby PlIIX, I do remember playing with that and can`t remember if I changed it at all. Would that make a difference?


----------



## Shayne2

^ Do you mean mode presets?


Of course this will do something, you have all your 5.1 transformed to prologic. I set my 2.0 cinema to mix to 5.1 (TV) my music I set to stereo. But for the 5.1 (c to h) I set to none. You can set them all to none and then change them on the remote as certain audio is playing to hear the difference of what you are doing.


Regards


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40470#post_23186593
> 
> 
> i will try to run some test - DTS remapping vs PLIIx. the basic problem is , if PLIIx is the way to go for matrix DTS HDMR 5.1 to 7.1, you have to use PCM from the player, it is not possible to run PLIIx on top of the RE-mapping thing


I thought the Anthems could apply Neo:6 and PLIIx to any 5.1 source, including DTS HD MA. If so, the only "impediment" solved by PCM is then you can hear 5.1 without remapping.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40470#post_23188218
> 
> 
> I thought the Anthems could apply Neo:6 and PLIIx to any 5.1 source, including DTS HD MA. If so, the only "impediment" solved by PCM is then you can hear 5.1 without remapping.



Unless he has Neo:6 enabled in the player to de-matrix DTS-HDMA 5.1 ES tracks (something Anthem doesn't do).


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40470#post_23185635
> 
> 
> It all checks out Bob. I changed to LPCM from bitstream and sounds about the same. While typing this Ironman was playing and if anyone has an ass kicking sub you know the cave scene, and it was very disappointing, used to rattle my walls and now my walls have finally won.



When playing, there is a button you can press on the remote ("0" I think) to check the status of Dolby Volume and DD/DTS Dynamics. Press it multiple times and ensure everything is OFF while the movie is playing.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40470#post_23182217
> 
> 
> don't you have the side/rear mapping "issue" ?



No, only a display bug which Andrew has passed to engineering at Anthem.


With 5.1 sources I get no sound in the rear speakers, until I engage Neo:6 or PLIIx - then they kick in loud and clear.


----------



## turk 182

Alright it seems the Anthem is excellent at fixing it self. I checked Dolby Volume and it was off, everything Bob recommended to check was good. So I tried both movies I had problems with and both sound fine now. I had an issue with DTS-HD playing only in PCM mode a few days ago and that was fixed by itself. With everyone`s help on here I feel my system is pretty dialed in so it makes me wonder if the Anthem or the Oppo is in need of a software upgrade.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40470#post_23188218
> 
> 
> I thought the Anthems could apply Neo:6 and PLIIx to any 5.1 source, including DTS HD MA. If so, the only "impediment" solved by PCM is then you can hear 5.1 without remapping.



yes - but the re-mapping thing duplicate sound from the sides , to the rears. And then it is no longer 5.1 but 7.1 . So if you have the new firmware 3.09h it (re-mapping ON )is not possible to run PLIIx on DTS HDMR 5.1 . One have to use LPCM out of the player, to apply PLIIx


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40470#post_23188403
> 
> 
> No, only a display bug which Andrew has passed to engineering at Anthem.
> 
> 
> With 5.1 sources I get no sound in the rear speakers, until I engage Neo:6 or PLIIx - then they kick in loud and clear.



an you run 3.09h firmware?. that was strange.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40470#post_23190559
> 
> 
> yes - but the re-mapping thing duplicate sound from the sides , to the rears. And then it is no longer 5.1 but 7.1 . So if you have the new firmware 3.09h it (re-mapping ON )is not possible to run PLIIx on DTS HDMR 5.1 . One have to use LPCM out of the player, to apply PLIIx


Remapping is supposed to be overridden if the user wishes to apply PLIIx, etc. Has it been confirmed that the new remapping implementation actually blocks it?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40470#post_23190652
> 
> 
> Remapping is supposed to be overridden if the user wishes to apply PLIIx, etc. Has it been confirmed that the new remapping implementation actually blocks it?



citat Bob. Since you are ALREADY getting 7.1 output from the decoder, surround sound algorithms like PLIIx have nothing to do and don't activate


I shout have done some testing last night. But my SIM2 projector was letting me down - again. So my focus was on that


----------



## Shayne2

Nick mentioned a while back that firmware 3.10 looks like it will be released soon. It is my understand that this may fix the low volume bug with my avm50v, which was fixed sometime ago with no public release to date. Does anyone here have info when we could see this firmware available for download? 3.09 fixed my handshake issue so not thinking of going back to the 2.


Also would like to know if any version after 3.09 will be adequate for the 3d board upgrade of does the initial flash after board installation have to be 3.09.


Regards


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm surprised V3.10 is not out yet. But there were a couple comments posted here that Anthem Tech Support indicated at least one more Beta would happen first, so perhaps that's the reason.


Any firmware V3.09 or later will be fine for the 3D upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## xtrips

Hello,


Anybody here installed the newer 3D kit for the older D2v's? The one that requires swapping the daughter and mother video board?

If so please contact me, I got a question.


Thanks


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40470#post_23190652
> 
> 
> Remapping is supposed to be overridden if the user wishes to apply PLIIx, etc. Has it been confirmed that the new remapping implementation actually blocks it?



No, as far as I'm concerned this has not been confirmed. Pretty sure tech support would be swamped with calls if they were to suddenly implement this after all these years, and I would at least expect an EXPLICIT note about it in the release notes.


----------



## p.las

I have tested it. And et seams to me that Roger are right . You Can aply PLIIx to the remappet DTS HDMR 5.1 mix. The Sound from the side and rears, changes a great deal. The display also saids DTS HDMR 5.1 + PLIIx .

A funny thing - when the DTS decoder uses remapping , and you stand witt the same distance to the side and rear you Can only hear the one speaker. But if you get closer to the one that i silence , you Can hear the Sound gets back. Is it comb filtering?


----------



## dmusoke


An interesting technical review of ARC ... http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/audio-calibration/audio-calibration-reviews/anthem-room-correction-arc-system-part-1.html


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40470#post_23190703
> 
> 
> citat Bob. Since you are ALREADY getting 7.1 output from the decoder, surround sound algorithms like PLIIx have nothing to do and don't activate


That would be true IF the remapping were happening in the BD player's HDMI output, but it does not.


Remapping is a post process in the same way as Neo:6 or PLIIx. The core decoder first outputs 5.1 audio, then the AV processor can access any of these additional processes. The only one it apparently cannot access is "none."










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23192027
> 
> 
> I have tested it. And et seams to me that Roger are right . You Can apply PLIIx to the remappet DTS HDMR 5.1 mix.


Great! Thanks for confirming.


As was the case with "Remap5" where the surrounds were mixed into fronts, I would expect that to continue whether PLIIx was on or off as they do not interfere with each other. But with Remap1, PLIIx replaces the spreading of surrounds to rears, so in effect is it not combining PLIIx with Remap1. It is PLIIx on top of the core 5.1 mix, with remap deactivated.


> Quote:
> A funny thing - when the DTS decoder uses remapping , and you stand with the same distance to the side and rear you Can only hear the one speaker. But if you get closer to the one that i silence , you Can hear the Sound gets back. Is it comb filtering?


It may be precedence effect, depending on the level and delay differences between the speakers. The nominal output for Remap1 is -3 dB equally to both the surrounds and rears. If the gain trims and delays create equal SPLs, you _ought_ to get a phantom image between them.


----------



## bigdaddy999

OK, an update to my previous long note (post 40485) about problems with HDMI and my D2, and I"m starting to think it's the D2 - again/still, even tho it was just repaired by Anthem.


Turning on Verizon DVR/Cable box if wired by HDMI - no picture.


Verizon DVR/Cable box hooked by component - When I turn everything on, it works fine. From here, switching to the Blu-ray on HDMI works and I get picture and sound via HDMI


BUT


If I switch sources from the Blu-Ray back to cable (component), I get no picture. I have to go into the D2 setup screen and back out, then the picture shows up. Same thing for the DVD player also connected by component.


It's as if the HDMI processing clobbers the video scalar's ability to process and output and it's locked up or something.


I've tried other HDMI sources, same thing. I've tried all sorts of cable combinations of different HDMI cables in different spots in the setup. Same thing.


Any thoughts?


Thanks.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23192716
> 
> 
> An interesting technical review of ARC ... http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/audio-calibration/audio-calibration-reviews/anthem-room-correction-arc-system-part-1.html



Thanks for posting this! It's nice to see how well ARC stacks up and is confirmed by external measurements.


----------



## Thxtheater

I'd like to revisit three questions that came up in light of this article from HomeTheaterHiFi as it regards the ARC advanced window:


My first two questions are about Room Gain.
I recall Bob (?) mentioning way, way back that you should try and have room gain at 2.5 to start with. So, to be clear, if you want to *increase the bass response* of the sub or system, then you *increase* the room gain? Is 2.5 still the recommended setting or go with ARC's default?
If you wanted to have your "Movie" config with more bass output "Music" and then apply either setting in the individual sources, , then you'd set the room gain up by about 2db in the Movies config in ARC?


My final question is about the "Flat" setting.
When would you change the setting of the sub to flat and likewise then change the fliter from auto to flat in the bottom of the target's wind

ow?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23195923
> 
> 
> OK, an update to my previous long note (post 40485) about problems with HDMI and my D2, and I"m starting to think it's the D2 - again/still, even tho it was just repaired by Anthem.
> 
> 
> Turning on Verizon DVR/Cable box if wired by HDMI - no picture.
> 
> 
> Verizon DVR/Cable box hooked by component - When I turn everything on, it works fine. From here, switching to the Blu-ray on HDMI works and I get picture and sound via HDMI
> 
> 
> BUT
> 
> 
> If I switch sources from the Blu-Ray back to cable (component), I get no picture. I have to go into the D2 setup screen and back out, then the picture shows up. Same thing for the DVD player also connected by component.
> 
> 
> It's as if the HDMI processing clobbers the video scalar's ability to process and output and it's locked up or something.
> 
> 
> I've tried other HDMI sources, same thing. I've tried all sorts of cable combinations of different HDMI cables in different spots in the setup. Same thing.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Big Daddy


Please try this

Change all the following.


Go into source setup and Select : Video Output Configurations

Config #1

Make the following changes

S-video NTSC

Preferred HDMI

Resolution 1280 X 1080p60 (not 24)

Color space Auto

Data Auto

Output Auto

Letterbox Black

Sync Normal

Compnt2 Out Passthru


Delete ALL of your settings for #2, 3, and 4 as you only need #1


Make sure you confirm Changes


Then go to Source Setup and select each of your HDMI sources such as DVD1, TV1 etc. Do not skip any HDMI sources change ALL of them.

Change ALL the HDMI sources to Vid Out Cnfg to 1.

At this point all your sources using HDMI should have VID OUT as #1. No exceptions.


Save User Settings


Let us know


----------



## bigdaddy999

Will do.... Thanks.


----------



## AVfile

Anyone having a problem with no audio if the source is set to video passthrough?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23175410
> 
> 
> Oppo 83 HDMI LPCM. No sound with disc playing, then sound starts when display (Lumagen Radiance) is turned on. Sound does not stop or pause when display is turned off.



I think I figured out why this problem sometimes happens and sometimes doesn't. If the source has a video output config selected, i.e. not bypassing the Anthem VXP, there is audio regardless if the display is on or not.


If the source has a video output set to THROUGH, i.e. bypassing the Anthem VXP, there is no audio until I turn on the display. Subsequently turning off the display does not interrupt the audio.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23196104
> 
> 
> I'd like to revisit three questions that came up in light of this article from HomeTheaterHiFi as it regards the ARC advanced window:
> 
> 
> My first two questions are about Room Gain.
> I recall Bob (?) mentioning way, way back that you should try and have room gain at 2.5 to start with. So, to be clear, if you want to *increase the bass response* of the sub or system, then you *increase* the room gain? Is 2.5 still the recommended setting or go with ARC's default?
> If you wanted to have your "Movie" config with more bass output "Music" and then apply either setting in the individual sources, , then you'd set the room gain up by about 2db in the Movies config in ARC?
> 
> 
> My final question is about the "Flat" setting.
> When would you change the setting of the sub to flat and likewise then change the fliter from auto to flat in the bottom of the target's wind
> 
> ow?



Your memory is not precise.










The basic idea is that Room Gain is a desirable Room Response characteristic -- it's part of what makes you feel you are listening in a good room instead of outdoors or in an anechoic chamber.


ARC attempts to detect the ACTUAL Room Gain in your room and preserve it as part of the solution, even as it is working to eliminate other (undesirable) room response characteristics.


Now there are things that can happen in the Measured output of your speakers that may confuse this detection, so ARC has built in limits. For example, negative Room Gain has not useful physical meaning, so ARC won't assign a Room Gain below 0. And resonances or boomy speakers can make the inherent Room Gain appear too large, so ARC won't assign a Room Gain above 4dB -- which shows as a number a but under 4 in the Targets window for technical reasons.


TYPICAL Room Gains in listening rooms are in the range 2-4dB. Very large rooms or rooms with extensive bass treatments will be at the lower end.


Room Gain shows on the charts as the shallow hump in the Targets and Calculated curve near the crossover frequencies. The Room Gain value in Targets is simply the height of the peak of that hump (in dB) over the basic volume level of the solution (see the flat part in the mid frequencies to gauge this). The impact of Room Gain on what you hear is just what you would expect from the shape of that hump. More Room Gain means a higher hump and thus somewhat more bass, but not a lot -- the hump is too shallow to make a big change.


Now, going with what ARC decided to use for Room Gain should work just fine. But if the shape of the Measured curves leads you to believe ARC might have been fooled into assigning a Room Gain value too low or too high you can adjust it, re-Calculate, and re-Upload (no need to re-Measure).


Movie mixers typically assume a modest amount of Room Gain, and mix accordingly. So if ARC assigned a Room Gain near 0dB, raising that to 2dB or so will probably sound better. If ARC assigned a Room Gain near 4dB you can go with that or lower it a bit if you like.


Music mixers have no such consensus, but the Rule of Thumb is that Music tends to be mixed assuming less Room Gain. So if you'd like to play with that, assign a Music solution Room Gain, say, 1dB less than you are using for Movie.


If you want to push Room Gain, you can even assign a value above 4dB. ARC won't do that on its own, but you can.


Remember that Movie and Music are just names for two different solutions you can build in ARC. There is NOTHING different about the way ARC calculates those or applies those. They could just as well be named Fred and Ethel. So you are free to use the two solutions any way you want. Personally I have "Movie" for multi-channel content (films or music), and "Music" for stereo music content, but it's up to you how you want to use these two. Each Setup > Source Setup can be assigned to use either Movie or Music.


ARC provides a roll off of the lowest frequency output to the Sub to protect Subs that may not have their own internal protection against bottoming out when fed, say a 12 Hz tone. If your Sub measures well down to 20Hz (the left side of the chart) and you know it has its own internal protection for extremely low frequencies, then you can switch the Advanced sub filter from Auto to Flat, and get a little more output below 20Hz.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23196303
> 
> 
> Anyone having a problem with no audio if the source is set to video passthrough?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40440#post_23175410
> 
> 
> Oppo 83 HDMI LPCM. No sound with disc playing, then sound starts when display (Lumagen Radiance) is turned on. Sound does not stop or pause when display is turned off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figured out why this problem sometimes happens and sometimes doesn't. If the source has a video output config selected, i.e. not bypassing the Anthem VXP, there is audio regardless if the display is on or not.
> 
> 
> If the source has a video output set to THROUGH, i.e. bypassing the Anthem VXP, there is no audio until I turn on the display. Subsequently turning off the display does not interrupt the audio.
Click to expand...


That would be a bug. Let Anthem know. Even a THROUGH Source should be able to establish the HDMI handshake to pass audio to the Anthem while the Display is OFF.


There was a similar bug in the D2 at one point -- the Display had to be ON to get audio going, then you could turn OFF the Display to keep audio going.


There is a possibility that the bug is actually IN THE DISPLAY. This would be the case if the Display is keeping it's HDMI connection live while it is OFF, but not responding to the handshake enough for the Anthem to figure out the difference. Basically the display is acting AS IF it is ON, but not responding to Copy Protection. To test this, temporarily DISCONNECT the HDMI output to the Display and then see if your THROUGH Source will work for audio. Some Displays will do that if their HDMI input is set to allow HDMI CEC remote control commands.

--Bob


----------



## bigdaddy999

So thank you - some progress - Maybe


Now I can switch between the two HDMI's and the component inputs and get a picture, it seems. But then it'll stop showing the picture at all if I switch back to the component, AND same for the HDMI until I reboot the D2. So not reliable. I was switching sources, let them play for a bit, then switch again. Seemed OK until the image dropped again.


However, on power-up, I still get no video on an HDMI input. Sound yes. I can see the Anthem logo resize (I think?) on power-up as it goes to 1080p, but then there's no image other than the volume control text at the bottom of the screen. I tried switching HDMI ports also - no difference.


To get the image back, I have to switch to another source and back to get it to output an image. Or go into setup and out.


Power-up with a component input seems to be OK, but again, given the above, it is still not be acting right.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23196371
> 
> 
> The basic idea is that Room Gain is a desirable Room Response characteristic --
> 
> --Bob



You mentioned a while back that you do not need to redo your measurement to upload a 2.1 music, just use your 5.1 results and type No. When I run 10 point 5.1 and 2.1 the arc results are different for room gain and 5.1 gives 2.727434 and the 2.1 is set to 2.948734 (in the run I just checked). I have tried playing with these in the past and have always found what arc provides is not bad. It must be sensitive since it is to 6 decimal places, or someone programing precision that does not exist, maybe minor adjustment for me may lead to good results.


Thank you for the update on firmware, appreciated.


Regards


----------



## dmusoke


Does anyone know if the D2v provides the +10dB sub boost even in ANALOG-DIRECT mode? I know it does it when ARC is engaged. Reason I ask is I'm passing my 2CH audio from my oppo player un-processed by ARC and straight to my amps. I've set a +5dB trim in the oppo already and have set the speakers to small.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23196822
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if the D2v provides the +10dB sub boost even in ANALOG-DIRECT mode? I know it does it when ARC is engaged. Reason I ask is I'm passing my 2CH audio from my oppo player un-processed by ARC and straight to my amps. I've set a +5dB trim in the oppo already and have set the speakers to small.



David

I think you are becoming confused.

In ANALOG-DIRECT there is no ARC and no sub engaged.

If your listening to a 2 channel *analog* stereo signal from the OPPO being passed to the D2v and using Analog Direct there is no bass management in the OPPO.

And you would want to speakers set to large unless they were bookshelf speakers not capable of at least going to 40hz.


OPPO does say this in my manual

Speaker Configuration applies to the multi-channel analog audio outputs only. All digital

bitstream and LPCM outputs are unaffected by these settings.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23196456
> 
> 
> So thank you - some progress - Maybe
> 
> 
> Now I can switch between the two HDMI's and the component inputs and get a picture, it seems. But then it'll stop showing the picture at all if I switch back to the component, AND same for the HDMI until I reboot the D2. So not reliable. I was switching sources, let them play for a bit, then switch again. Seemed OK until the image dropped again.
> 
> 
> However, on power-up, I still get no video on an HDMI input. Sound yes. I can see the Anthem logo resize (I think?) on power-up as it goes to 1080p, but then there's no image other than the volume control text at the bottom of the screen. I tried switching HDMI ports also - no difference.
> 
> 
> To get the image back, I have to switch to another source and back to get it to output an image. Or go into setup and out.



Color space Auto

Data Auto

Output Auto


I would now try explicit settings for the above like:

HDTV

8-BIT

YCBCR 4:4:4


I suspect that your TV is not happy with one of the settings the D2 is choosing. This is also known to change when entering SETUP menus or DVR menus.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23196399
> 
> 
> There is a possibility that the bug is actually IN THE DISPLAY. This would be the case if the Display is keeping it's HDMI connection live while it is OFF, but not responding to the handshake enough for the Anthem to figure out the difference. Basically the display is acting AS IF it is ON, but not responding to Copy Protection. To test this, temporarily DISCONNECT the HDMI output to the Display and then see if your THROUGH Source will work for audio. Some Displays will do that if their HDMI input is set to allow HDMI CEC remote control commands.
> 
> --Bob



You're onto something there - Sound starts as soon as I unplug the display (Lumagen Radiance) !


Thanks,

Stefan


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23197279
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23196822
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if the D2v provides the +10dB sub boost even in ANALOG-DIRECT mode? I know it does it when ARC is engaged. Reason I ask is I'm passing my 2CH audio from my oppo player un-processed by ARC and straight to my amps. I've set a +5dB trim in the oppo already and have set the speakers to small.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> David
> 
> I think you are becoming confused.
> 
> In ANALOG-DIRECT there is no ARC and no sub engaged.
> 
> If your listening to a 2 channel *analog* stereo signal from the OPPO being passed to the D2v and using Analog Direct there is no bass management in the OPPO.
> 
> And you would want to speakers set to large unless they were bookshelf speakers not capable of at least going to 40hz.
> 
> 
> OPPO does say this in my manual
> 
> Speaker Configuration applies to the multi-channel analog audio outputs only. All digital
> 
> bitstream and LPCM outputs are unaffected by these settings.
Click to expand...

 

Stew ...I apologize for the confusion and I will re-phrase my confusing question  . I'm running a stereo CD but using the Oppo bass management to get a 2.1 output(using the MCH outs) from the Oppo into the D2v set to ANALOG-DIRECT(A-D). The speakers are set to small in the Oppo. I set the sub trim to +5dB in the Oppo and was wondering if the D2v applied the standard +10dB boost on its sub inputs in the A-D mode.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23198136
> 
> 
> You're onto something there - Sound starts as soon as I unplug the display (Lumagen Radiance) !
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Stefan



Stefen


I checked my D2v set to THROUGH and using HDMI audio input connected to a Sony XBR and I have sound with the tv set off.

There is a slight delay when selecting the OPPO as the source gets the handshake, but there is audio all the time when the set is OFF.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23198360
> 
> 
> Stew ...I apologize for the confusion and I will re-phrase my confusing question  . I'm running a stereo CD but using the Oppo bass management to get a 2.1 output(using the MCH outs) from the Oppo into the D2v set to ANALOG-DIRECT(A-D). The speakers are set to small in the Oppo. I set the sub trim to +5dB in the Oppo and was wondering if the D2v applied the standard +10dB boost on its sub inputs in the A-D mode.



OK, I think I understand what you are doing. You are using the OPPO MCH Left & Right front outputs and the Sub output into the 6 chan S/E inputs on the

D2v to enable bass management etc in the OPPO. Correct ?

This allows you to set the fronts to small and enable the sub in the OPPO

Where I still see the problem is in the D2v as set to Analog Direct. There is no sub. If you used Analog Dig there would be a sub.

Except, if you select 6 chan S/E the D2v does display LFE input and Sub output even with Analog Dir but there is no LFE on most CDs and on my system I hear no sub.

Switch the audio from Analog-Dir to Analog -Dig and there is sub output.


----------



## Bittornado




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bittornado*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40350_50#post_23154427
> 
> 
> Hello everybody! An owner of Anthem D2v and P5 since more than a year ago, unfortunately due to different reasons just got my stuff unpacked and hooked up! The shear of the looks of the gear screams quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I would appreciate if someone could help me out with a little problem here...
> 
> I own a Pioneer Kuro KRP-600M monitor. Subsequently the monitor has no tv-tuner at all. And we all know that Anthem D2v does not have a tv-tuner either.
> 
> I get cable-tv from a simple RF-socket coming out off the living room wall. These are all analog signals I get for free. For the moment I do not want to pay for any extras or a digital box or anything.
> 
> 
> I was thinking how to connect the analog tv signal to my Pioneer tv set via my D2v.
> 
> I do own a good old VCR player which does have an analog tv-tuner (receiver). I was thinking of hooking up my RF antenna cable with the analog signal to my VCR which has a Scart connection at its back, I got myself a Scart -> composite adapter, routed the composite cable to the D2v composite VCR input connection with the separate sound cables to the corresponding analog audio inputs of the D2v. I then connected the audio out from D2v to my P5.
> 
> 
> So far I should be good, right?
> 
> Now comes the tricky part... I'm kinda 'novice stupid' when it comes to signal conversions I'm afraid... my question is, can I now get the video signal fed to my D2v via a video composte cable out from D2v via an HDMI cable to my tv-monitor? Or is that impossible since the composite video-in from my VCR feeds D2v with an analog signal so therefore I'd need to get the signal out from D2v via another composite cable to my monitor?
> 
> Does D2v also have ADCs or only DACs? I'm not sure what happens to an analog video signal which is being fed into D2v pre-amp... setting up the gear via HDMI simply does not give me any signal at all on my Pioneer monitor.
> 
> That's why I'm suspecting that an anaolg signal needs to be taken from D2v by a composite analog connection...
> 
> 
> Another way of solving the problem might be to get an active Scart -> HDMI convertor, but such a converter costs a lot more than a simple composite video cable and also I won't be gaining any signal improvements anyway since the analog RF signal that is being fed from the wall antenna socket is already the worse signal source possible!
> 
> 
> So would some kind soul please explain to a home-theatre novice what signal conversions actually happen in a D2v?!
> 
> I would highly appreciate any kinda help and advice



Well hello everyone once more... I quoted my earlier post here in order to relate this one to the above as well.

There seems to be something terribbly fundamental which I'm missing regarding how a video and stereo signal is being put through Anthem D2v and most definitely there are some adjustments I can't figure out how to make... since I can't for my life get anything out of my pre-amp or amp (P5).


I finally got a combined VHS-DVD player with a funtional analog tv-tuner since I get analog cable tv from the wall... my RF antenna cable for my analog cable signal is then connected to my player's RF-in.

All I ever wanted was to somehow pass the analog tv video signal through D2v and then to my tv-monitor (which does not have any kind of tv-tuner whatsoever).

As I understand I need to have at least an S-video in-signal for D2v to give me some kind of a 'processed' signal out for... let's say an HDMI connection to my monitor... correct? Well I have not tried the S-video connection yet since I don't have a spare cable and the RF-in signal as my souce signal with all certainty is already inferior to what I would get out of S-video... so I never bothered.


But shouldn't I at least be able to feed the video signal to my D2v from the player via an ordinary yellow-colored composite cable?? I stick that cable into one of the 'Composite Video In' (VCR or DVD) connections. Then I was hoping that D2v would simply send the same composite video signal out and into my tv-monitor throgh another composite cable I would connect via 'Composite Video Out', for me in order to have a video picture signal on my monitor!


Well, here's the thing... if I connect my VHS-DVD player to my tv-monitor DIRECTLY through the same composite cable, then everything works just fine... I have tuned in all my analog tv-channels with no problem at all and I at least have picture.

But taking a detour and going through D2v as explained above (Player's video signal out-D2v composite in-D2v composite out-to tv) then NOTHING happens! No picture and no signal ever goes through to my tv monitor










Is there a separate setting somewhere I need to provide that would tell the D2v to just pass through the analog video signal and then out to the monitor without processing? I thought analog composite signal in never became processed anyway? Or is the signal is still being processed to something else and I need to think differently???

I'm sorry guys if this simply seems to be tooo darn fundamental for eveyone else here but I'd like to think that I'm fairly logical... I just can not figure it out!


Plz advise how I should make the connections! For the time being I'm not gonna get any digital boxes for some time in the near future and even though I could try S-video connection, but still the signal routing remains the same and I'm no longer sure whether I'm even in the right path with this...

I know the alternative would be of course to simply forget about D2v and connect the player to my monitor directly... which gives me picture... but I'd still like to know why I can not route the signal through D2v!??

And BTW while still on the same subject... what settings do I need to choose on the D2v itself anyways?

Even though I feed the pre-amp with clearly an analog video signal and connect the composite cable to the composite in for VCR or DVD, the D2v always indicates a 'DIGITAL' VCR or DVD setting on its display... doesn't it distinguish between the two?? Whould I even be bothered?!


Also, regarding the sound signal... since my monitor does not have any speakers either, here I HAVE to at least get some sound out of my Anthem set-up!

I tried an ordinary red/white analog stereo sound cable which I connected from the player's stereo sound output to my D2v (Analog Audio In - does it matter whether I choose the DVD or VCR as long as it's analog audio in?) and then I've tried both the 'Analog Audio Out' and also the left & right connections of the 'Main Audio Out' to my P5's corresponding analog-in connections, which are in turn then connected to my speakers... no matter what I do I get NO sound out of anything either







But I do hear some statics from my speakers while connecting the cables so ratinally there does not seem to be any hardware issue...


I apologize for yet another lengthy post here... but I really need some directions from you guys... unfortunately there is no Anthem customer service where I live here in Europe for an 'over-the-phone' direction... and I'm going out of my mind! If I have to take a guess I suspect some faulty settings on my D2v and I think I've wired my components correctly, but I'm in need of big help!


Many regards,

/B.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bittornado*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23199011
> 
> 
> Well hello everyone once more... I quoted my earlier post here in order to relate this one to the above as well.
> 
> There seems to be something terribbly fundamental which I'm missing regarding how a video and stereo signal is being put through Anthem D2v and most definitely there are some adjustments I can't figure out how to make... since I can't for my life get anything out of my pre-amp or amp (P5).
> 
> 
> I finally got a combined VHS-DVD player with a funtional analog tv-tuner since I get analog cable tv from the wall... my RF antenna cable for my analog cable signal is then connected to my player's RF-in.
> 
> All I ever wanted was to somehow pass the analog tv video signal through D2v and then to my tv-monitor (which does not have any kind of tv-tuner whatsoever).
> 
> As I understand I need to have at least an S-video in-signal for D2v to give me some kind of a 'processed' signal out for... let's say an HDMI connection to my monitor... correct? Well I have not tried the S-video connection yet since I don't have a spare cable and the RF-in signal as my souce signal with all certainty is already inferior to what I would get out of S-video... so I never bothered.
> 
> 
> But shouldn't I at least be able to feed the video signal to my D2v from the player via an ordinary yellow-colored composite cable?? I stick that cable into one of the 'Composite Video In' (VCR or DVD) connections. Then I was hoping that D2v would simply send the same composite video signal out and into my tv-monitor throgh another composite cable I would connect via 'Composite Video Out', for me in order to have a video picture signal on my monitor!
> 
> 
> Well, here's the thing... if I connect my VHS-DVD player to my tv-monitor DIRECTLY through the same composite cable, then everything works just fine... I have tuned in all my analog tv-channels with no problem at all and I at least have picture.
> 
> But taking a detour and going through D2v as explained above (Player's video signal out-D2v composite in-D2v composite out-to tv) then NOTHING happens! No picture and no signal ever goes through to my tv monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a separate setting somewhere I need to provide that would tell the D2v to just pass through the analog video signal and then out to the monitor without processing? I thought analog composite signal in never became processed anyway? Or is the signal is still being processed to something else and I need to think differently???
> 
> I'm sorry guys if this simply seems to be tooo darn fundamental for eveyone else here but I'd like to think that I'm fairly logical... I just can not figure it out!
> 
> 
> Plz advise how I should make the connections! For the time being I'm not gonna get any digital boxes for some time in the near future and even though I could try S-video connection, but still the signal routing remains the same and I'm no longer sure whether I'm even in the right path with this...
> 
> I know the alternative would be of course to simply forget about D2v and connect the player to my monitor directly... which gives me picture... but I'd still like to know why I can not route the signal through D2v!??
> 
> And BTW while still on the same subject... what settings do I need to choose on the D2v itself anyways?
> 
> Even though I feed the pre-amp with clearly an analog video signal and connect the composite cable to the composite in for VCR or DVD, the D2v always indicates a 'DIGITAL' VCR or DVD setting on its display... doesn't it distinguish between the two?? Whould I even be bothered?!
> 
> 
> Also, regarding the sound signal... since my monitor does not have any speakers either, here I HAVE to at least get some sound out of my Anthem set-up!
> 
> I tried an ordinary red/white analog stereo sound cable which I connected from the player's stereo sound output to my D2v (Analog Audio In - does it matter whether I choose the DVD or VCR as long as it's analog audio in?) and then I've tried both the 'Analog Audio Out' and also the left & right connections of the 'Main Audio Out' to my P5's corresponding analog-in connections, which are in turn then connected to my speakers... no matter what I do I get NO sound out of anything either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I do hear some statics from my speakers while connecting the cables so ratinally there does not seem to be any hardware issue...
> 
> 
> I apologize for yet another lengthy post here... but I really need some directions from you guys... unfortunately there is no Anthem customer service where I live here in Europe for an 'over-the-phone' direction... and I'm going out of my mind! If I have to take a guess I suspect some faulty settings on my D2v and I think I've wired my components correctly, but I'm in need of big help!
> 
> 
> Many regards,
> 
> /B.[/quote
> 
> 
> ]I am not trying to be a wise guy but it appears you have not read or do not have the Anthem users manual.
> 
> You do need to read it and absorb what it says so you understand at least the basics as the Anthem is complicated.
> 
> If you do not have the manual it can be downloaded from the Anthem web site.
> 
> I encourage you to read it and then maybe we can assist you after you get the basics.


----------



## Bittornado

Well believe me, I have read probably 90% of the manual material. What confuses me I think is that I'm actually feeding D2v with a fully analog signal which is probably not so common these days.. so my brains somehow do not comprehend what actually happens in there.

I'm not trying to be lazy or comfortable, I have tried all sort of things for the past 2 weeks with no success... so at least give me the courtesy to please direct me to some particular part of the manual which you believe I should read on all over again that would relate to my issues...?

I'm not even sure what I'm doing wrong... I'm not a tech guy or a home-theatre expert nor a genius, but I do want to enjoy great sound quality and learn!

But the manual does not help me understand where to go from here... sorry for my stupidity but I'm here because I need help sir


----------



## TJG55

D-2 problem......very reduced output on Rear Left, 10db or more. Have reloaded factory defaults, then firmware 1.33 to no avail. Next step, will rerun ARC to see what happens. Anyone ever heard/seen this? Any ideas?

TJG


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bittornado*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23199264
> 
> 
> Well believe me, I have read probably 90% of the manual material. What confuses me I think is that I'm actually feeding D2v with a fully analog signal which is probably not so common these days.. so my brains somehow do not comprehend what actually happens in there.
> 
> I'm not trying to be lazy or comfortable, I have tried all sort of things for the past 2 weeks with no success... so at least give me the courtesy to please direct me to some particular part of the manual which you believe I should read on all over again that would relate to my issues...?
> 
> I'm not even sure what I'm doing wrong... I'm not a tech guy or a home-theatre expert nor a genius, but I do want to enjoy great sound quality and learn!
> 
> But the manual does not help me understand where to go from here... sorry for my stupidity but I'm here because I need help sir


 

Bittornado:

 

1.  Are you sure you are getting a video signal output from your VCR? To prove so, simply male a direct connection from VCR to the TV's composite input(since the 600M doesn't have the better quality s-video) and select that input from the TV remote. Are you getting video? If not, problem solved. If video is present, good and time to move on to step #2.

 

2. If your VCR has s-video use it instead and connect the signal into one of the 7 s-video inputs of the D2v.For this example, lets use the TV input of the D2v.

If you don't have an s-video cable, then stop and go buy one as it'll give you the maximum PQ from a 480i video source. We are self respecting video-philes here







!!!

 

3. Enter the setup  menu of the Anthem unit by pressing the MENU button and go to Video Output -> Video out Config 1.

   

    OSD: NTSC (or PAL if you are in Europe/PAL region)

    Preferred: HDMI

    Res:1920x1080px60 ( or 50 if in Europe/PAL region)

    Color space: AUTO for now.

    Data: Studio RGB for Kuro monitors...The rest is left at default.

 

4. Quit menu and go to Source Setup -> TV1

   

     Rename: 

     Video out cnfg:1

     Scaler Input : S-Video

     S-Video In: TV

     Audio IN: AnlgDSP

     Auto DIG: None

    Analog Audio: TV (i,e If you plugged the RCA audio cables from the VCR into the TV input of the Analog Audio IN of the D2v).

    Muting: MIN.

 

5. That's should be it and you should be getting audio and video from your VCR.

 

Note: The D2v will upscale your analog S-video 480i input (or 576i if in Europe/PAL region) into a 1080p signal on your HDMI output. The VXP processor is an excellent upscaler and will do a better job of up-scaling video to 1080p than your 600M plasma.

 

Hope the above helps ... Good luck!

 

- David


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23199281
> 
> 
> D-2 problem......very reduced output on Rear Left, 10db or more. Have reloaded factory defaults, then firmware 1.33 to no avail. Next step, will rerun ARC to see what happens. Anyone ever heard/seen this? Any ideas?
> 
> TJG


 

Could be a broken speaker or (gulp!) broken Rear Left output on the D2v. I would run the speaker level tests in the setup screen and swap RL with RR at the amp or D2v and see if the problem tracks. If so, you have a broken D2v output. If not you have a broken speaker(preferred option of the two).


----------



## Bittornado

David,

Thank you a million times for taking time and describing the details.


Yes, as mentioned in my earlier post, upon connecting the VCR/DVD directly to my monitor I do get picture and all available cable channels, that's why I was sure I didn't know how to handle my pre-amp.

I think I understand the settings now... just dunno how I would have come up with the same result all by my own! Sorry but sometimes just reading a manual does not add much to one's general understanding...


Just 3 more quick questions if I may:

1. The VCR/DVD set I'm using right now is not mine. I'm just about to buy a used set which does not have S-video. It will however have component outputs which I believe is for the DVD part of the combo set. Can I use component instead of S-video? I'm still using an analog signal output right? And then I just change the settings in your post above accordingly to go with a component connection instead of S-video?

2. Also, is there a difference between the analog in-connectors of the D2v? Whether it's VCR, DVD or TV in, does it matter whichever I would use... as long as I'm doing a composite or S-video connection?

3. Since I'm actually using a RF cable antenna signal as source, will I notice a big difference if I go HDMI from Dv2 to 600M plasma vs component connection from Dv2 to the monitor as well as component VCR->D2v? Would the latter alternative automatically render the plasma monitor doing the up-scaling instead, thus somewhat inferior picture quality?


Tremendous many thanks for your time and patience sir!

Sincerely,

/Seb


----------



## AVfile

1. You can use component but it is unlikely that a DVD/VCR combo will have high quality conversion of composite to component video. There is also a chance it will only work when playing a DVD! Use S-video or get a digital cable box.


2. Yes it matters which jack you use. If there is no option in the Anthem menu to map the composite inputs to the composite monitor output you must use the jack with the label that matches the front panel input selection.


3. I think so. I have only used S-video for my Laserdisc player on very rare occasion but with the Anthem performing the digitization and up-conversion it never looked better.


----------



## TJG55

DM

swapped all possible combos...spk Paradigm SA-10R is good. all indications are bad output on D-2

TJG


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bittornado*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23199264
> 
> 
> Well believe me, I have read probably 90% of the manual material. What confuses me I think is that I'm actually feeding D2v with a fully analog signal which is probably not so common these days.. so my brains somehow do not comprehend what actually happens in there.
> 
> I'm not trying to be lazy or comfortable, I have tried all sort of things for the past 2 weeks with no success... so at least give me the courtesy to please direct me to some particular part of the manual which you believe I should read on all over again that would relate to my issues...?
> 
> I'm not even sure what I'm doing wrong... I'm not a tech guy or a home-theatre expert nor a genius, but I do want to enjoy great sound quality and learn!
> 
> But the manual does not help me understand where to go from here... sorry for my stupidity but I'm here because I need help sir





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bittornado*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23199608
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> Thank you a million times for taking time and describing the details.
> 
> 
> Yes, as mentioned in my earlier post, upon connecting the VCR/DVD directly to my monitor I do get picture and all available cable channels, that's why I was sure I didn't know how to handle my pre-amp.
> 
> I think I understand the settings now... just dunno how I would have come up with the same result all by my own! Sorry but sometimes just reading a manual does not add much to one's general understanding...
> 
> 
> Just 3 more quick questions if I may:
> 
> 1. The VCR/DVD set I'm using right now is not mine. I'm just about to buy a used set which does not have S-video. It will however have component outputs which I believe is for the DVD part of the combo set. Can I use component instead of S-video? I'm still using an analog signal output right? And then I just change the settings in your post above accordingly to go with a component connection instead of S-video?
> 
> 2. Also, is there a difference between the analog in-connectors of the D2v? Whether it's VCR, DVD or TV in, does it matter whichever I would use... as long as I'm doing a composite or S-video connection?
> 
> 3. Since I'm actually using a RF cable antenna signal as source, will I notice a big difference if I go HDMI from Dv2 to 600M plasma vs component connection from Dv2 to the monitor as well as component VCR->D2v? Would the latter alternative automatically render the plasma monitor doing the up-scaling instead, thus somewhat inferior picture quality?
> 
> 
> Tremendous many thanks for your time and patience sir!
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> /Seb




None of us here are geniuses and I interpreted your long dissertation without much description of how you were setting up the D2 as not having read the manual.

For that I do apologize. Occasionally we get the person who expects us to function and respond as their online installer instead of their reading the manual and working it out..

Most of the forum members are only users like yourself.


Answer to Question #1

Component will work fine into the D2. Better than S-video and sometimes as good as video on HDMI .

Yes, it is an analog signal. In the setup menu as explained above by dmusoke, change the scaler input to whatever video input you have decided to use.


Answer to Question #2

If you are using Component video you have to select that in the setup menu. Select your source, then select Scaler input and then Component or S-Video and which rear input 1, 2,3 or 4.


Answer to Question #3

The difference between HDMI and Component video is slight up to 1080P. Biggeset advantage is HDMI also carries the audio on the same cable and allows selection of some higher resolution formats. Unless you are using a Blu Ray player the higher rez audio will probably not matter to you.

Using a RF signal input to a VHS/DVD player with a tuner, you might want HDMI or an optical or coaxial audio connection to take advantage of multi channel sound.

In all cases the D2 will process and upscale the video as you set in the setup to a higher viewing quality.


I would recommend that unless someone is giving you the VHS/DVD player for nothing you consider buying an inexpensive blu ray player instead.

They can be bought for US $25 and up new and used. Then purchase a USB HD/TV tuner and connect your Over the Air or cable RF to it and the USB to the Blu Ray player.

Understand that the free OT tv stations now being carried by cable will soon disappear as the FCC has changed their regulations and the cable companies will be allowed

to encrypt the OT tv signals.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23199878
> 
> 
> DM
> 
> swapped all possible combos...spk Paradigm SA-10R is good. all indications are bad output on D-2
> 
> TJG



You also swapped the connections to and from from the amp that powers the rear channels ?


Now swap the input connections to the Anthem and see if it moves to the other side ?


Also go into the setup and try the internal audio signal and see if the Rt and Left sound different.


----------



## TJG55

tried all possibilities.....have been doing this for >40 yrs.

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23199878
> 
> 
> DM
> 
> swapped all possible combos...spk Paradigm SA-10R is good. all indications are bad output on D-2
> 
> TJG


1) Save User Settings.

2) Reload Factory Defaults

3) In Speaker Configuration, turn off Advanced, confirm just the standard, single, 80Hz crossover is in effect.

4) In Level Calibration, confirm all volume trims are at 0dB

5) In Listener Position, confirm all speakers equidistant (defaults)


Now go back into Level Calibration and use the internal test tones. Compare the faulty output to a good output. If still a problem, swap those two output plugs on the back if the Anthem. If the problem moves to the speaker that was "good" then you probably need service. However, try doing a firmware re-install first, "just in case".

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Bittornado,


Composite video (single RCA cable marked yellow by convention) is the worst choice for video input. It is limited to Standard Definition, has the poorest image quality, AND CAN NOT BE USED AS INPUT TO THE VIDEO SCALER in the Anthem. Composite input is limited to Composite output -- the Anthem does nothing but select between the input jacks.


S-Video (special, multi-pin, single cable) is next best. It too is limited to standard definition, but it has better quality than Composite, and it CAN be used as input to the Scaler, meaning that you can get video output on S-Video and upscaled video output on Component and HDMI. If you have a Source that ONLY offers Composite output, then go to Radio Shack and buy an inexpensive Composite to S-Video converter which lets you plug into S-Video input instead. Don't expect a great image, but it will work.


Component Video (THREE RCA cables conventionally marked Red, Green, and Blue) is far FAR superior to Composite or S-Video. It can carry HD video with excellent quality. It can also be processed through the scaler for either Component or HDMI output. Note that many Sources will limit their Component video output to 1080i. Standard DVD players are even more restrictive, limiting Component to 480p (which is still more than the 480i Composite and S-Video carry).


HDMI video (special, single HDMI cable) is the top choice. Although Component theoretically can do as well as HDMI, HDMI adds "copy protection" which removes the signal limits I just mentioned.


Note that conversion only goes "UP". For example, if you want Component output, you can only use Component or S-Video input. You can't use HDMI input for Component output because that's going down (and would break copy protection). And you can't use Composite input because it can't be processed in the Scaler.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Also, some devices will offer "modulated RF" or TV video output. That looks to your TV like it is TV Channel 3 or 4 coming in from an antenna. That's even worse than Composite video. The Anthem will not accept that as input, which is a good thing because you REALLY don't want to use that.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23199281
> 
> 
> D-2 problem......very reduced output on Rear Left, 10db or more. Have reloaded factory defaults, then firmware 1.33 to no avail. Next step, will rerun ARC to see what happens.



I would just turn off ARC (ROOM EQ in Source Setup menu) before going through the pain of re-running it.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bittornado*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23199608
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> Thank you a million times for taking time and describing the details.
> 
> 
> Yes, as mentioned in my earlier post, upon connecting the VCR/DVD directly to my monitor I do get picture and all available cable channels, that's why I was sure I didn't know how to handle my pre-amp.
> 
> I think I understand the settings now... just dunno how I would have come up with the same result all by my own! Sorry but sometimes just reading a manual does not add much to one's general understanding...
> 
> 
> Just 3 more quick questions if I may:
> 
> 1. The VCR/DVD set I'm using right now is not mine. I'm just about to buy a used set which does not have S-video. It will however have component outputs which I believe is for the DVD part of the combo set. Can I use component instead of S-video? I'm still using an analog signal output right? And then I just change the settings in your post above accordingly to go with a component connection instead of S-video?
> 
> 2. Also, is there a difference between the analog in-connectors of the D2v? Whether it's VCR, DVD or TV in, does it matter whichever I would use... as long as I'm doing a composite or S-video connection?
> 
> 3. Since I'm actually using a RF cable antenna signal as source, will I notice a big difference if I go HDMI from Dv2 to 600M plasma vs component connection from Dv2 to the monitor as well as component VCR->D2v? Would the latter alternative automatically render the plasma monitor doing the up-scaling instead, thus somewhat inferior picture quality?
> 
> 
> Tremendous many thanks for your time and patience sir!
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> /Seb


 

Seb ... Others have answered your questions very well but the question I have for you is WHY are you using such a poor video source into the D2v







? Why can't you get a cheap but excellent bluray player that can play your DVD sources and scale them up to 1080p? There are places where you can go and have your VHS tapes can be converted to DVDs for decent prices. You have a $10K audio/video processor(with high end amps and speakers) and you are feeding it low quality sources from VCR tapes







? It simply doesn't make much sense to us here on this forum but I guess to each his own...


----------



## nrwatson

Help

I am using a sky hd box

When I play back I get a flash every 20 seconds using projector and D2V live feed is okay

I get no problems if I input straight into tv

And thoughts


----------



## xtrips




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23191203
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Anybody here installed the newer 3D kit for the older D2v's? The one that requires swapping the daughter and mother video board?
> 
> If so please contact me, I got a question.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Bump!

Nobody with an earlier version of D2v is upgrading?


----------



## Bittornado

Hello again to you all!

First off, I'm totally greatful for ALL your replies... thank you David, Bob, AVFILE, thestewman and everybody else







I greatly appreciate that... as I mentioned before, I can't say that I have a lot of experience from working with advanced pre-amps or different signal sources.


Still I have been reading a lot on internet, I'm for example pretty aware of the quality of different sources based on what I've learned on-line... the problem for me has been mainly understanding how Anthem D2v works and how signal conversions/processing behave in order to choose the best possible components with regards to what I'm able to use for my purposes.

Also please understand that all the possible connectivity alternatives being offered by different components as possible peripherals to D2v are new to me! In all honesty I've just been using my RF antenna cable tv connected to an old 25" heavy SDTV up until now, so I'm just trying to learn how to upgrade myself.

Acquiring the Anthem set was my first choice after reviewing hundreds of different pre-amps out there. Opportunity came up, I was offered almost half price for a D2v-P5 combo from a serious dealer (as a good gesture since they had to swap my Kuro 600M monitor three times due to non-funtioning units delivered twice which took them about 6 months to get right, although it was Pioneer who was to blame and not the poor dealer)... he simply agreed to contact another Anthem dealer abroad and got me the Anthem combo-set without making any profit on it just to make me happy... otherwise I probably had never bothered to buy an Anthem set as my first pre-amp ever because how complicated it is to set up and I knew that I needed some more experience at first!


First I was gonna make multiple quotations to answer and comment on different members but I instead number them down here...


1. The basics: I live in Sweden. In my country despite being a west-European EU country, there are no Anthem dealers. As a matter of fact there is not much of an anything unless you happen to live in the capital city of Stockholm and you're lucky to find a private enthusiastic hifi dealer with some connections who would go through a lot of trouble to help you out and get some more exquisite hifi or professional gear. There is no comparison to other countries like UK, France, Italy, Germany, Switzerland, US, Japan, Australia or such. Normally there is almost never any opportunity to even see or listen to a more high end professional gear prior to your purchase... so I'm kinda limited. Also I love high end stuff and everywhere I went on line I found Anthem to be one of the best components out there so I took the deal and I'm very happy as well!


2. The analog cable tv I'm offered for free gives me the main 14 channels here in Sweden for free. As a matter of fact, the cable company provider Com Hem which is one of the three biggest tv/internet providers here in Sweden is THE only company offering tv/internet via cable (I believe it's called over the air tv in US?).

I know it's an analog signal... but Com Hem has not put any definite date for terminating their analog tv signal being offered yet... because of the fact that there are virtually millions of people in Sweden who still use the cable connection to their old tv even if they do own a flat tv panel...

Digital boxes here in Sweden are basically always bought in conjunction with subscribing for a digital broadcast. There are maybe 2-3 companies who own like 99% of the whole market. The subscription requirements are usually expensive... but beyond that, they force you to sign for a 24 month deal right from the start! And THAT is my major gripe why I don't want to sign for a digital tv subscription... There is no way to break such deal, even if I want out after 9 months they will force me to pay something like $200 per month for the remainder of the time.


3. Also, I just found out that none of the providers can even offer me HDTV! So I won't be able to have HD channels... the only real alternative would be to set up a sattelite dish and get myself a S2 compatible digital box... for my little apartment that is a too much of a hassle and even companies providing sattelite tv generally require a 2 yr deal subsription...

Now I DO watch a lot of tv and sports. That's why I need the opportunity of having a tv signal somehow. I could have bought the Pioneer kuro 600A version instead of the monitor set I've got, but just for the tv tuner I would have got myself another useless separate box and would have paid a lot of premium price, so I skipped that.


4. Now, I figured that the CHEAPEST way for me to go here since I don't know how long I'll be living in my current apartment and sinice I don't want a 24 month digital tv deal forced into my throat just in order to have a functioning digital box receiver (without a subscription to one of the major providers I can not use a digital box anyway), and since my major use for my set for the time being will be 98% normal tv broadcast and not so much movie watching... it would be enough for now to be able and use the analog cable tv signal I already have in my apartment and settle for that.


5. So to simply answer David's question about my poor source being fed into a $10 k gear... is that I NEED the tv-signal! And for the moment my only choice for a tv signal is the analog cable source. I mainly need to use the VCR/DVD combo for the sake of it having an analog tv-tuner... a separate dedicated analog tv receiver would cost me a lot more to buy. I'm not planning to use it as VHS or DVD source... I just need its analog tv tuner. I had an old VCR-only set as well but its tv tuner seems to be broken. I WILL however in the future complete my high end system with everything from HDTV to blu-ray player subs several more speakers etc... but that will be a couple of years away...


6. Thestewman, I did not know about that usb-HD/TV sticks... so basically it will work as an analog cable tv receiver inserted to a blu-ray set which can be then sent to the D2v? Is the analog tv signal somehow processed or the USB port is just a means of signal transport to the blu-ray player? Also, AVFILE mentioned in his post that a component connection may not work since that connection out from a DVD/VCR set most probably will not carry the analog tv signal and will probably only carry DVD signal out ot the player... then maybe a component connection is not worth the try then??


As a last note I would like to say that I managed to connect the VCR/DVD combo via a composite for now directly to my monitor and got out the sound via D2v... and BOY only the sound itself blew my mind and the source is just a lousy RF antenna cable









Since the VCR/DVD combo I was planning to get seems to have a DVD only exclusive component out which most likely will not carry out a tv signal, I'll either buy a blu-ray player and get a RF-USB adapter to go with it or I'll look to find a very cheap DVD/VCR player with tv-tuner and a mandatory S-video output to let D2v's VXP would make the processing of course










Sincerely,

/Seb


----------



## Bittornado




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500_50#post_23199733
> 
> 
> 1. You can use component but it is unlikely that a DVD/VCR combo will have high quality conversion of composite to component video. There is also a chance it will only work when playing a DVD! Use S-video or get a digital cable box.


You seem to be absolutely correct... looking closer at the manual for the DVD/VCR combo I was planning to get it says under the component out connections set at the back: "DVD exclusive out connection", which I understand can only send DVD signal out to the TV set and not an analog antenna video signal









Thank you a lot for making me notice that...


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bittornado*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23201864
> 
> 
> Hello again to you all!
> 
> First off, I'm totally greatful for ALL your replies... thank you David, Bob, AVFILE, thestewman and everybody else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I greatly appreciate that... as I mentioned before, I can't say that I have a lot of experience from working with advanced pre-amps or different signal sources.
> 
> .
> .
> 
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> /Seb


 

Seb:

 

I'm totally shocked that Sweden, the home country of all beautiful blonde babes we idolized as teenager(







) is so backwards in its TV delivery services!!! I mean, this is the country of ABBA, Nokia(?) and other goodies?

 

Man, anyways, if you plane to get a USB base TV tuner, Amazon Germany is the closest to you and I have found a few highly rated ones (4 stars and above) for you at http://www.amazon.de/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_four_bro_mrr_0?rh=n%3A1197292%2Ck%3Atv+tuner%2Cp_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A181071031&keywords=tv+tuner&ie=UTF8&qid=1365974155&rnid=181070031#/ref=sr_nr_p_72_0?rh=n%3A562066%2Ck%3Atv+tuner%2Cp_72%3A419117031&keywords=tv+tuner&ie=UTF8&qid=1365974299&rnid=419116031

 

You can further sort them out for free shipping and the price point you want to pay and also if you want to buy a new or used unit. Prices seem to be reasonable(?) at under 50 euros for most. Some of these are have SCART connectors and not sure if the 600M has one. If so, then your setup would be simplified greatly and not have to worry about turning on a PC to watch TV.

 

In general regarding USB TV tuner sticks, you plug the RF cable at one end of the USB stick and out comes the TV signal displayed on your laptop/computer . You may then connect the HDMI/Composite output of the laptop/Computer to the D2v HDMI and composite inputs respectively.

Too bad the 600M doesn't have USB inputs for  then you'd be able to connect the USB tuner stick directly to the plasma directly!

 

As a solution to the above, you may look into USB-to-HDMI cables for cheap here at http://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85Z%C3%95%C3%91&url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=usb%20to%20hdmi%20adapter#/ref=sr_nr_p_72_0?rh=n%3A562066%2Ck%3Ausb+to+hdmi+adapter%2Cp_72%3A419117031&keywords=usb+to+hdmi+adapter&ie=UTF8&qid=1365977456&rnid=419116031

 

Then plug into your 600M or D2v HDMI inputs and you are done!

 

Anyways, best of luck in your search for the perfect solution for now ...

 

Regards,

David


----------



## bigdaddy999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23198059
> 
> 
> Color space Auto
> 
> Data Auto
> 
> Output Auto
> 
> 
> I would now try explicit settings for the above like:
> 
> HDTV
> 
> 8-BIT
> 
> YCBCR 4:4:4
> 
> 
> I suspect that your TV is not happy with one of the settings the D2 is choosing. This is also known to change when entering SETUP menus or DVR menus.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23195923
> 
> 
> OK, an update to my previous long note (post 40485) about problems with HDMI and my D2, and I"m starting to think it's the D2 - again/still, even tho it was just repaired by Anthem.
> 
> 
> Turning on Verizon DVR/Cable box if wired by HDMI - no picture.
> 
> 
> Verizon DVR/Cable box hooked by component - When I turn everything on, it works fine. From here, switching to the Blu-ray on HDMI works and I get picture and sound via HDMI
> 
> 
> BUT
> 
> 
> If I switch sources from the Blu-Ray back to cable (component), I get no picture. I have to go into the D2 setup screen and back out, then the picture shows up. Same thing for the DVD player also connected by component.
> 
> 
> It's as if the HDMI processing clobbers the video scalar's ability to process and output and it's locked up or something.
> 
> 
> I've tried other HDMI sources, same thing. I've tried all sorts of cable combinations of different HDMI cables in different spots in the setup. Same thing.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I tried what someone Avfile suggested:
Color space Auto

Data Auto

Output Auto


I would now try explicit settings for the above like:

HDTV

8-BIT

YCBCR 4:4:4


But it behaves exactly the same (but not sure where to change the "data" setting to 8-bit. IN any case, it seems that the TV may be the culprit. XBR9. Don't know what it's looking for, but so far, the D2 and/or the XBR9 are not happy with the relationship!


Is anyone using the D2 with an XBR9 set? If so, what's your experience been?


Thanks again.


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23204932
> 
> 
> 
> I tried what someone Avfile suggested:
> Color space Auto
> 
> Data Auto
> 
> Output Auto
> 
> 
> I would now try explicit settings for the above like:
> 
> HDTV
> 
> 8-BIT
> 
> YCBCR 4:4:4
> 
> 
> But it behaves exactly the same (but not sure where to change the "data" setting to 8-bit. IN any case, it seems that the TV may be the culprit. XBR9. Don't know what it's looking for, but so far, the D2 and/or the XBR9 are not happy with the relationship!
> 
> 
> Is anyone using the D2 with an XBR9 set? If so, what's your experience been?
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



It seems the D2 doesn't play well with any TV. I have had this problem with the D2 since 06 when I purchased It. With my old SONY and now my Sammy. I still get PINK screen, total snow, and NO picture after power up. Powers up showing 576i some times. I have tried all settings and the most stable but NOT cured is, STUDIO RGB in menu 1 Video output. Look at the track record for UPDATES, It has never stopped. I hope when D3 comes out they will have a stable proper working unit.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23204932
> 
> 
> 
> I tried what someone Avfile suggested:
> Color space Auto
> 
> Data Auto
> 
> Output Auto
> 
> 
> I would now try explicit settings for the above like:
> 
> HDTV
> 
> 8-BIT
> 
> YCBCR 4:4:4
> 
> 
> But it behaves exactly the same (but not sure where to change the "data" setting to 8-bit. IN any case, it seems that the TV may be the culprit. XBR9. Don't know what it's looking for, but so far, the D2 and/or the XBR9 are not happy with the relationship!
> 
> 
> Is anyone using the D2 with an XBR9 set? If so, what's your experience been?
> 
> 
> Thanks again.



You can set Output to 8 bits in Line F of the Video Output in the Setup menu.

Are you using Configuration #1 for all your video settings ?


I am using my D2v with my third Sony TV and have never had an HDMI problem.

I had a Qualia 006, an XBR, 900 and now a XBR 84X900. No HDMI problems.


----------



## bigdaddy999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23205876
> 
> 
> You can set Output to 8 bits in Line F of the Video Output in the Setup menu.
> 
> Are you using Configuration #1 for all your video settings ?
> 
> 
> I am using my D2v with my third Sony TV and have never had an HDMI problem.
> 
> I had a Qualia 006, an XBR, 900 and now a XBR 84X900. No HDMI problems.



I'm on a D2. No such entry on line f for Video output. That's the color of the bars for letterbox. Yes, all inputs point to Video 1 out.


Could this be a timing issue for starting up the devices? Seems like it's usually OK to switch sources once it's figured out how to talk to the TV. Not always tho.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The D2 does not support "Deep Color". Its video input and output is always "8 bit" (24 bits per pixel).


The Rule of Thumb for powering up devices is to go in reverse order of the data flow: TV first, wait, Anthem, wait, Source. Try this using the separate remote controls for each, and allowing more than enough time for each device to fully boot up. If that works, then you can play with faster timing -- perhaps using a programmable remote.

--Bob


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23192716
> 
> 
> An interesting technical review of ARC ... http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/audio-calibration/audio-calibration-reviews/anthem-room-correction-arc-system-part-1.html



What an amazing article. A lot of it went over my head, but I understood enough to confirm my belief of how great ARC is. I'm going to more carefully re-read it and try and wrap my brain around the more technical details.


Hard (for me) to imagine what is missing that a Part 2 is required.


One thing I noticed - Dr. Rich used 9 microphone placements "_around the perimeter of an 18-inch square to yield eight points. The ninth point was the center of the square_." I am assuming the box was centered in the prime listening position, and my reading of the article seems to confirm that.


It makes me think I have been doing it all wrong.


My understanding (and according the documentation), the placement positions should be at least two feet apart. Also, I always thought (perhaps mistakenly) that it was advantageous for the placement positions to be a bit varied from the prime position, so that ARC could get a good "acoustic feel" (for lack of a better term) of the entire room.


So, even though there is a two-seat sofa in my room from which 99% of the listening is done, I also used microphone positions further out into the room, between the sofa and the system (i.e., where my display and fronts/center are placed). So position 1 is at my primary position; 2 was 2' away at the secondary position; 3 & 4 equidistant left-and right of that; then position 5 centered but out 3' into the room; 6 and 7 equidistant left and right of that, etc.


Would I achieve better results by clustering all the positions around the sofa (again, being sure to be balanced l-r and center with the positioning? Or was the testing outlined in article strictly for "laboratory testing" and not what would give optimal, real-world results?


- Mark


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23206690
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23192716
> 
> 
> An interesting technical review of ARC ... http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/audio-calibration/audio-calibration-reviews/anthem-room-correction-arc-system-part-1.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What an amazing article. A lot of it went over my head, but I understood enough to confirm my belief of how great ARC is. I'm going to more carefully re-read it and try and wrap my brain around the more technical details.
> 
> 
> Hard (for me) to imagine what is missing that a Part 2 is required.
> 
> 
> One thing I noticed - Dr. Rich used 9 microphone placements "_around the perimeter of an 18-inch square to yield eight points. The ninth point was the center of the square_." I am assuming the box was centered in the prime listening position, and my reading of the article seems to confirm that.
> 
> 
> It makes me think I have been doing it all wrong.
> 
> 
> My understanding (and according the documentation), the placement positions should be at least two feet apart. Also, I always thought (perhaps mistakenly) that it was advantageous for the placement positions to be a bit varied from the prime position, so that ARC could get a good "acoustic feel" (for lack of a better term) of the entire room.
> 
> 
> So, even though there is a two-seat sofa in my room from which 99% of the listening is done, I also used microphone positions further out into the room, between the sofa and the system (i.e., where my display and fronts/center are placed). So position 1 is at my primary position; 2 was 2' away at the secondary position; 3 & 4 equidistant left-and right of that; then position 5 centered but out 3' into the room; 6 and 7 equidistant left and right of that, etc.
> 
> 
> Would I achieve better results by clustering all the positions around the sofa (again, being sure to be balanced l-r and center with the positioning? Or was the testing outlined in article strictly for "laboratory testing" and not what would give optimal, real-world results?
> 
> 
> - Mark
Click to expand...

 

Mark:

 

In my HT setup, I use the following7-position  microphone placement when doing ARC. I find it produces more pleasant results than the standard 5 position one. Each position is separated by 2 ft or more horizontally and sideways. It takes a long time since I have separate movie/music configurations but its worth it imo.

 

                                                  1                2

 

                                      3                   4                   5

 

                                                   6                7

 

Yeah, the technical article is well written and detailed and will take a while to absorb its contents. Even after that,i may find myself with a headache afterwards







...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ For a "real" setup, it is definitely best to keep the mic positions near the actual seating rather than covering parts of the room you won't use for seating.


A 7 position layout is fine -- perhaps overkill if all you are including is a single sofa -- but that one violates a couple of the "rules": #1 should be at center seating because it is the one used to set the volume trims. and positions should alternate either side of #1 so:


                                                  2                3


                                      4                   1                   5


                                                   6                7



--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23206941
> 
> 
> ^ For a "real" setup, it is definitely best to keep the mic positions near the actual seating rather than covering parts of the room you won't use for seating.
> 
> 
> A 7 position layout is fine -- perhaps overkill if all you are including is a single sofa -- but that one violates a couple of the "rules": #1 should be at center seating because it is the one used to set the volume trims. and positions should alternate either side of #1 so:
> 
> 
> 2                3
> 
> 
> 4                   1                   5
> 
> 
> 6                7
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob


Thanks for that Bob ... I should have been more careful reading what the manual.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23192716
> 
> 
> An interesting technical review of ARC ... http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/audio-calibration/audio-calibration-reviews/anthem-room-correction-arc-system-part-1.html


 

This I never knew (reading the after reading the article) regarding ARC versus Audyssey.

 

Frequency Response with Audyssey OFF ....Good.

 



 

Frequency Response with Audyssey ON ...







!!! Flat to 23KHz and then drops off rapidly afterwards.

 

By about 26KHz, its almost -100dB down! This clearly shows Audyssey down-samples its high bit rate signals to 48KHz for processing. I find this really very surprising.

 



 

With ARC (looking at the D2v datasheet)...(for both RCA and XLR outputs)

 

Analog Direct Inputs --> 10Hz - 20KHz (0 -0.2dB), 1Hz to 130KHz (0, -3dB).

 

Analog DSP Inputs (24bits/96KHz)  --> 10Hz - 20KHz (0 -0.3dB), 2Hz to 44.1KHz (0, -3dB).

 

Digital Inputs (24bits/96KHz)  --> 10Hz - 20KHz (0 -0.2dB), 1Hz to 45KHz (0, -3dB).

 

 

Clearly ARC is superior as its signal bandwidth goes up to 45KHz, processing data at a 96KHz sampling rate, twice the rate of Audyssey XT32, their flagship room correction algorithm.


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23206941
> 
> 
> ^ For a "real" setup, it is definitely best to keep the mic positions near the actual seating rather than covering parts of the room you won't use for seating.
> 
> 
> A 7 position layout is fine -- perhaps overkill if all you are including is a single sofa -- but that one violates a couple of the "rules": #1 should be at center seating because it is the one used to set the volume trims. and positions should alternate either side of #1 so:
> 
> 
> 2                3
> 
> 
> 4                   1                   5
> 
> 
> 6                7
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23207578
> 
> 
> Thanks for that Bob ... I should have been more careful reading what the manual.



Thanks for that you two - guess I will be re-running ARC this weekend!


I was using 7 positions, more like dmusoke's than Bob's. Definitely sounded better than my earlier runs using 5 positions, but apparently not optimal.


Bob, if my fiancee and I are always on the two-seat sofa, do you think should I make the position 1 exactly between us? Something like this:



                                               2                    3

                                                ______________

                                               |                     |

                                      4       |   me    1   her  |       5

                                               |_____________|


                                               6                    7




BTW, I'm assuming positions 2 and 3 are to the front of the couch (towards the mains).


I know there's no "perfect" solution, but WWBD ("what would Bob do"?)


Thanks,


- Mark


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23209674
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for that you two - guess I will be re-running ARC this weekend!
> 
> 
> I was using 7 positions, more like dmusoke's than Bob's. Definitely sounded better than my earlier runs using 5 positions, but apparently not optimal.
> 
> 
> Bob, if my fiancee and I are always on the two-seat sofa, do you think should I make the position 1 exactly between us? Something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 2                    3
> 
> ______________
> 
> |                     |
> 
> 4       |   me    1   her  |       5
> 
> |_____________|
> 
> 
> 6                    7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I'm assuming positions 2 and 3 are to the front of the couch (towards the mains).
> 
> 
> I know there's no "perfect" solution, but WWBD ("what would Bob do"?)
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> - Mark



Good one MARK










New acronym or internet slang 4 the forum......... WWBD


What Would Bob Do ?


Unfortunately we have a conflict as WWBD already exists.

What Would Batman Do ? 


So I suggest we modify it to WWBPD


or What Would Bob Pariseau Do ?




Stew


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes, put #1 between the two of you. The 7 position layout discussed above is symmetric, so it really doesn't matter whether 2/3 is on the screen side or 6/7.


Personally, for a single sofa, I prefer a 5 position "arc" configuration -- 3 positions along the head line of the sofa and two outer positions just outside the arms and about equal with the front of the seat cushion:

                                                     -- screen --



                                           4                                 5

                                                  2        1         3          



Using 30" spacing on a normal, 3 cushion sofa, that would put the corner head positions kind of between 2-4 and 3-5. All 5 positions are set at seated ear height. The tip of 1/2/3 should not be positioned next to a tall back rest or a rear wall. Raise them a couple inches so the tip clears the back rest, or move 1/2/3 about a foot closer to the screen.                                                            

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23206941
> 
> 
> #1 should be at center seating because it is the one used to set the volume trims.



Assuming that's where you actually sit? If you sit on the left why can't #1 be on the left?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23209812
> 
> 
> The tip of 1/2/3 should not be positioned next to a tall back rest or a rear wall. Raise them a couple inches so the tip clears the back rest,



If you do that for position 1 you will end up with rear channels not sounding loud enough.


----------



## TJG55

Bob and AVfile et. al..

Thanks for the replies......have tried all you have suggested to no avail. Only thing left, rerun ARC but I hold out little hope. Will try reseating boards as last resort before shipping out to Anthem. Have sold a ton of Anthem and read this forum very carefully and have never heard of this situation. ???

TJG


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23209911
> 
> 
> Bob and AVfile et. al..
> 
> Thanks for the replies......have tried all you have suggested to no avail. Only thing left, rerun ARC but I hold out little hope. Will try reseating boards as last resort before shipping out to Anthem. Have sold a ton of Anthem and read this forum very carefully and have never heard of this situation. ???
> 
> TJG



Do you have the 3D upgrade ?


----------



## TJG55

No, its a D-2.

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23209911
> 
> 
> Bob and AVfile et. al..
> 
> Thanks for the replies......have tried all you have suggested to no avail. Only thing left, rerun ARC but I hold out little hope. Will try reseating boards as last resort before shipping out to Anthem. Have sold a ton of Anthem and read this forum very carefully and have never heard of this situation. ???
> 
> TJG


If it failed my check after the Reset it will likely need service. The internal test tones don't go through ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23209862
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23209812
> 
> 
> The tip of 1/2/3 should not be positioned next to a tall back rest or a rear wall. Raise them a couple inches so the tip clears the back rest,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you do that for position 1 you will end up with rear channels not sounding loud enough.
Click to expand...


If you expect ARC to correct for blocked speakers, you will be disappointed. Raise the tip or move the mic forward and let the omnidirectional mic make the best of a bad situation.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman

^


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23209911
> 
> 
> Bob and AVfile et. al..
> 
> Thanks for the replies......have tried all you have suggested to no avail. Only thing left, rerun ARC but I hold out little hope. Will try reseating boards as last resort before shipping out to Anthem. Have sold a ton of Anthem and read this forum very carefully and have never heard of this situation. ???
> 
> TJG




OK


Anyway I want to relate an experience I just had.

It might just be a clue to some of what others including yourself are experiencing with strange behavior.


I took my D2v to my dealer last week to have the 3D board and latest firmware installed. Normally I would do something like this myself.

Since Anthem sent the dealer the boards and it was part of the deal when I purchased the D2v last year I went along with Anthem's suggestion the dealer was best equipped.

So the dealer installed the boards and did the firmware install. I watched the entire procedure and it went flawlessly. The board install was perfect and the dealer used a laptop with RS232 connector built in and the firmware was installed and the update was reported by the software as Successful. Mistake we made was not connecting the unit to sources and a TV before taking it home. I returned home.Installed the D2v and everything looked good. Except I only got 2 channel stereo +sub and some sources no longer worked. There was no video through HDMI setting available and the oudio output was extremely high at even a setting of -40 on the volume control. Everything checked OK. The unit displayed the correct firmware etc v3.09h, and the setup was correct.

I reloaded the v3.09h software and each time it was successful but no changes. I even tried v3.09f still no good.

A call to Anthem was not very helpful as the tech, who I will not identify, seemed uninterested and was not helpful.

I contacted the dealer who also called Anthem.

Anthem was sure the 3D board was defective and suggested the dealer order another board . I took the D2v back to the dealer and he reloaded the software again. Stll a successful install but not working correctly. The dealer uninstalled everything and started over.

Not working. Another call to Anthem. Now this tech said, "you know we have a problem with some of the HDMI boards where the mounting holes for the L shaped mounting brackets are misaligned and might be too small and it prevents the board from seating properly".

What ? You guys at Anthem knew this and did and did not say anything to anyone ?

The dealer again disassembled everything. This time he took all he brackets completely off. Under the top board are two sets of bladed contacts which appear to be not seating completely.

This time the dealer carefully installed the top board again. Starting at one end and rolling it in place from one end to the other. In other words not inserting it straight down. So now it was installed but without any of the brackets.

They re-installed the software and the unit worked perfectly.

Now the dealer installed the brackets while physically holding the boards in place so they could not move and retested the unit.

It worked.

This leads me to believe the boards that hold the HDMI connectors can be installed correctly yet the unit does not function correctly.

The L shaped brackets pull the boards and cause a partial disconnect of the terminals connecting the boards.

This appears to be caused by the plastic pins Anthem uses to mount the boards. This allows the L brackets to mis-align the boards from each other.

Anthem should issue this as a service recall and provide hard vertical board mounts instead of the flexible plastic pins to the main board..

It might be worth any user having unidentifiable trouble to remove the unit's cover and dismount the upper board completely.

Re-install the upper board without any brackets starting at one end and rolling it in place. Disconnect all the cables while doing this and re-install all the cables.

Then re-install the firmware and test the unit.

Then install the brackets while physically holding the HDMI boards in place as you tighten the brackets.


Thought I would pass this along as Anthem does't think it important enough to want to


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23209858
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23206941
> 
> 
> #1 should be at center seating because it is the one used to set the volume trims.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Assuming that's where you actually sit? If you sit on the left why can't #1 be on the left?
Click to expand...

If you want the off center position to be treated as the center of your seating then sure. Most folks will be happier sampling the seating area normally, even if they tend to sit to one side. Keep in mind that if you shift #1 you also have to shift the other positions to maintain the alternating side placement.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23209858
> 
> 
> Assuming that's where you actually sit? If you sit on the left why can't #1 be on the left?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23210308
> 
> 
> If you want the off center position to be treated as the center of your seating then sure. Most folks will be happier sampling the seating area normally, even if they tend to sit to one side. Keep in mind that if you shift #1 you also have to shift the other positions to maintain the alternating side placement.
> 
> --Bob



No matter how you set it up the SWEET SPOT between the two front speakers,especially for 2 channel stereo will be in the center


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23208666
> 
> With ARC (looking at the D2v datasheet)...(for both RCA and XLR outputs)
> 
> 
> Analog Direct Inputs --> 10Hz - 20KHz (0 -0.2dB), 1Hz to 130KHz (0, -3dB).
> 
> 
> Analog DSP Inputs *at* 24bits/96KHz  --> 10Hz - 20KHz (0 -0.3dB), 2Hz to 44.1KHz (0, -3dB).
> 
> 
> Digital Inputs *at* 24bits/96KHz  --> 10Hz - 20KHz (0 -0.2dB), 1Hz to 45KHz (0, -3dB).
> 
> 
> 
> Clearly ARC is superior as its signal bandwidth goes up to 45KHz, processing data at a 96KHz sampling rate, twice the rate of Audyssey XT32, their flagship room correction algorithm.


You missed the (at), which likely means those specs were produced using 24/96 source signals. The D2v up samples digital and analog signals to 24bit/192kHz. Whether this is applied prior to or after the DSP I'm not sure, so it's possible that ARC is actually operating at 24bit/192kHz.


Cheers


----------



## TJG55

Sman,

Just what I was looking for. Will give it a try.

TJG


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23210394
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23208666
> 
> With ARC (looking at the D2v datasheet)...(for both RCA and XLR outputs)
> 
> 
> Analog Direct Inputs --> 10Hz - 20KHz (0 -0.2dB), 1Hz to 130KHz (0, -3dB).
> 
> 
> Analog DSP Inputs *at* 24bits/96KHz  --> 10Hz - 20KHz (0 -0.3dB), 2Hz to 44.1KHz (0, -3dB).
> 
> 
> Digital Inputs *at* 24bits/96KHz  --> 10Hz - 20KHz (0 -0.2dB), 1Hz to 45KHz (0, -3dB).
> 
> 
> 
> Clearly ARC is superior as its signal bandwidth goes up to 45KHz, processing data at a 96KHz sampling rate, twice the rate of Audyssey XT32, their flagship room correction algorithm.
> 
> 
> 
> You missed the (at), which likely means those specs were produced using 24/96 source signals. The D2v up samples digital and analog signals to 24bit/192kHz. Whether this is applied prior to or after the DSP I'm not sure, so it's possible that ARC is actually operating at 24bit/192kHz.
> 
> 
> Cheers
Click to expand...

 

Maybe ... but I doubt it since anthem says in their other literature that they didn't want to extend the input sampling rate beyond 96KHz for they "didn't want to sample noise". It would make sense to process the audio data at 96KHz and then up-sample the output to 192kHz.... (just my 2 cents).


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23210495
> 
> 
> Sman,
> 
> Just what I was looking for. Will give it a try.
> 
> TJG


 

I really hope this works out for you ...life w/o the D2(v) can be challenging ...sort of like a drug addict de-toxing for the next 30-days. Painful and uncomfortable...


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23210336
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how you set it up the SWEET SPOT between the two front speakers,especially for 2 channel stereo will be in the center





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23210394
> 
> 
> You missed the (at), which likely means those specs were produced using 24/96 source signals. The D2v up samples digital and analog signals to 24bit/192kHz. Whether this is applied prior to or after the DSP I'm not sure, so it's possible that ARC is actually operating at 24bit/192kHz.
> 
> 
> Cheers




Don't understand the difference of opinion here.

ARC is using the test audio signal not an audio sample from a source to make the adjustments.

And

They only sample and process up to in most cases 5000 Hz unless the user raises it.

That has no bearing in when you are listening to a higher frequency audio signal I don't believe.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23210303
> 
> ^
> 
> OK
> 
> 
> Anyway I want to relate an experience I just had.
> 
> It might just be a clue to some of what others including yourself are experiencing with strange behavior.
> 
> 
> I took my D2v to my dealer last week to have the 3D board and latest firmware installed. Normally I would do something like this myself.
> 
> Since Anthem sent the dealer the boards and it was part of the deal when I purchased the D2v last year I went along with Anthem's suggestion the dealer was best equipped.
> 
> So the dealer installed the boards and did the firmware install. I watched the entire procedure and it went flawlessly. The board install was perfect and the dealer used a laptop with RS232 connector built in and the firmware was installed and the update was reported by the software as Successful. Mistake we made was not connecting the unit to sources and a TV before taking it home. I returned home.Installed the D2v and everything looked good. Except I only got 2 channel stereo +sub and some sources no longer worked. There was no video through HDMI setting available and the oudio output was extremely high at even a setting of -40 on the volume control. Everything checked OK. The unit displayed the correct firmware etc v3.09h, and the setup was correct.
> 
> I reloaded the v3.09h software and each time it was successful but no changes. I even tried v3.09f still no good.
> 
> A call to Anthem was not very helpful as the tech, who I will not identify, seemed uninterested and was not helpful.
> 
> I contacted the dealer who also called Anthem.
> 
> Anthem was sure the 3D board was defective and suggested the dealer order another board . I took the D2v back to the dealer and he reloaded the software again. Stll a successful install but not working correctly. The dealer uninstalled everything and started over.
> 
> Not working. Another call to Anthem. Now this tech said, "you know we have a problem with some of the HDMI boards where the mounting holes for the L shaped mounting brackets are misaligned and might be too small and it prevents the board from seating properly".
> 
> What ? You guys at Anthem knew this and did and did not say anything to anyone ?
> 
> The dealer again disassembled everything. This time he took all he brackets completely off. Under the top board are two sets of bladed contacts which appear to be not seating completely.
> 
> This time the dealer carefully installed the top board again. Starting at one end and rolling it in place from one end to the other. In other words not inserting it straight down. So now it was installed but without any of the brackets.
> 
> They re-installed the software and the unit worked perfectly.
> 
> Now the dealer installed the brackets while physically holding the boards in place so they could not move and retested the unit.
> 
> It worked.
> 
> This leads me to believe the boards that hold the HDMI connectors can be installed correctly yet the unit does not function correctly.
> 
> The L shaped brackets pull the boards and cause a partial disconnect of the terminals connecting the boards.
> 
> This appears to be caused by the plastic pins Anthem uses to mount the boards. This allows the L brackets to mis-align the boards from each other.
> 
> Anthem should issue this as a service recall and provide hard vertical board mounts instead of the flexible plastic pins to the main board..
> 
> It might be worth any user having unidentifiable trouble to remove the unit's cover and dismount the upper board completely.
> 
> Re-install the upper board without any brackets starting at one end and rolling it in place. Disconnect all the cables while doing this and re-install all the cables.
> 
> Then re-install the firmware and test the unit.
> 
> Then install the brackets while physically holding the HDMI boards in place as you tighten the brackets.
> 
> 
> Thought I would pass this along as Anthem does't think it important enough to want to



Wow


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23210394
> 
> 
> The D2v up samples digital and analog signals to 24bit/192kHz. Whether this is applied prior to or after the DSP I'm not sure, so it's possible that ARC is actually operating at 24bit/192kHz.



The DACs perform the upsampling to 192k, post ARC, but only in the D2v.


Everything up to and including ARC works the same in both D2v and 50v.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23211426
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23210336
> 
> 
> 
> No matter how you set it up the SWEET SPOT between the two front speakers,especially for 2 channel stereo will be in the center
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23210394
> 
> 
> You missed the (at), which likely means those specs were produced using 24/96 source signals. The D2v up samples digital and analog signals to 24bit/192kHz. Whether this is applied prior to or after the DSP I'm not sure, so it's possible that ARC is actually operating at 24bit/192kHz.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Don't understand the difference of opinion here.
> 
> ARC is using the test audio signal not an audio sample from a source to make the adjustments.
> 
> And
> 
> They only sample and process up to in most cases 5000 Hz unless the user raises it.
> 
> That has no bearing in when you are listening to a higher frequency audio signal I don't believe.
Click to expand...

 

We are talking about the sampling rate(s) used by the DSPs when ARC is engaged as you play your audio through the Anthem units not the ARC calibration procedure.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23212054
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23210394
> 
> 
> The D2v up samples digital and analog signals to 24bit/192kHz. Whether this is applied prior to or after the DSP I'm not sure, so it's possible that ARC is actually operating at 24bit/192kHz.
> 
> 
> 
> *The DACs perform the upsampling to 192k*, post ARC, but only in the D2v.
> 
> 
> Everything up to and including ARC works the same in both D2v and 50v.
Click to expand...

So true ...


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23211371
> 
> 
> Maybe ... but I doubt it since anthem says in their other literature that they didn't want to extend the input sampling rate beyond 96KHz for they "didn't want to sample noise". It would make sense to process the audio data at 96KHz and then up-sample the output to 192kHz.... (just my 2 cents).


Do you have the link, because they also state the ADC's are 24/192. What you say would suggest that it down samples 24/192 source signals to 24/96 for DSP.


Here is anthems upsampling flier http://www.anthemav.com/index.php?option=com_joomdoc&task=doc_download&gid=68&Itemid=8 


They mention that "Every channel of digital (PCM, Dolby Digital, DTS) or analog-DSP input is converted to 192 kHz before going to the DAC" and "The DACs then oversample by 128x, raising the sample rate to 24.576 MHz" what they don't state is whether this upconversioin to 192kHz occurs before or after the DSP.


Lather they mention "To appreciate the superiority of the DAC stage in Anthem Statement processors we must measure to a higher bandwidth, such as 80 kHz." And "the Statement’s THD+N without the AES17 filter is less than 0.01% up to 80 kHz" the only thing is they are referring to the DAC's at this point and its not clear if this THD+N test is from input to output or just a benchtest of the DAC's themselves. Because if it were of the system, passing 80kHz is not possible if DSP is limited to 96khz.


Cheers


----------



## dmusoke


It seems I missed a data point from its datasheet and might have to take back what I said before. The datasheet says the D2v can accept a 7.1  24b/192k PCM signal on its inputs. This is pre-ARC, so you'd be right that the audio signal is converted to 192K before being processed by the DSPs and then output at the same rate and further oversampled by a 128x factor to 24.576MHz in the DACs. This is really cool, imho!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The only 96KHz limitation in the D2v is that the re-digitizing of Analog input set to ANALOG-DSP is at up to 96KHz. The resulting digital audio is then up sampled to 192KHz -- just as with all D2v audio input -- prior to ANY digital processing, including ARC. The DACs in the D2v get digital audio input which is already 192KHz. The situation is more complicated in the AVM 50v, since the up sampling does not happen.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23210303
> 
> 
> What ? You guys at Anthem knew this and did and did not say anything to anyone ?
> 
> The dealer again disassembled everything. This time he took all he brackets completely off. Under the top board are two sets of bladed contacts which appear to be not seating completely.
> 
> This time the dealer carefully installed the top board again. Starting at one end and rolling it in place from one end to the other. In other words not inserting it straight down. So now it was installed but without any of the brackets.
> 
> They re-installed the software and the unit worked perfectly.
> 
> Now the dealer installed the brackets while physically holding the boards in place so they could not move and retested the unit.
> 
> It worked.



Since day 1 the kit's instructions have been saying...


"STEP 7


"IMPORTANT! The order of the next two steps must be followed exactly. Use the screws set aside in Step 4.


"a) Install the 3 screws holding the small L-brackets to the rear of the chassis, as shown.


"b) Using the Robertson #0 bit, tighten the 3 “L” Bracket screws into PCB as shown. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN."


...in other words tighten screws on circuit board *after* tightening screws on rear panel or the board is guaranteed to be misaligned. Photos are page-width, close-up, and in color.


The simple facts are that the dealer took things apart, put the same things back together, no parts were changed, only alignment, and wow look it worked! Hmph...


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23212054
> 
> 
> The DACs perform the upsampling to 192k, post ARC, but only in the D2v.
> 
> 
> Everything up to and including ARC works the same in both D2v and 50v.



As far as sample rate is concerned this is correct as long as DACs means DAC stage. The upsamplers are separate chips just ahead of DAC chips. No better place to reclock but the main purpose is to have a gentle low-pass filter.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Nick, so you are saying ARC and things like the Surround Modes in the D2v operate at different sample rates according to the rate of the audio input? ONLY the DACs operate at fixed, 192 KHz?


I could have sworn we discussed this. Ah well, memory is the first thing to go.....

--Bob


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23209786
> 
> 
> Good one MARK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New acronym or internet slang 4 the forum......... WWBD
> 
> 
> What Would Bob Do ?
> 
> 
> Unfortunately we have a conflict as WWBD already exists.
> 
> What Would Batman Do ?
> 
> 
> So I suggest we modify it to WWBPD
> 
> 
> or What Would Bob Pariseau Do ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stew




I'm good with "WWBPD"....











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40530#post_23209812
> 
> 
> ^ Yes, put #1 between the two of you. The 7 position layout discussed above is symmetric, so it really doesn't matter whether 2/3 is on the screen side or 6/7.
> 
> 
> Personally, for a single sofa, I prefer a 5 position "arc" configuration -- 3 positions along the head line of the sofa and two outer positions just outside the arms and about equal with the front of the seat cushion:
> 
> -- screen --
> 
> 
> 
> 4                                 5
> 
> 2        1         3
> 
> 
> 
> Using 30" spacing on a normal, 3 cushion sofa, that would put the corner head positions kind of between 2-4 and 3-5. All 5 positions are set at seated ear height. The tip of 1/2/3 should not be positioned next to a tall back rest or a rear wall. Raise them a couple inches so the tip clears the back rest, or move 1/2/3 about a foot closer to the screen.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you for the additional input Bob - hopefully I will get to try this over the weekend and see how it sounds. It already sounds pretty awesome I think, I'm curious as to what impovement I'll hear.


Thanks again,


- Mark


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23213488
> 
> 
> ^ Nick, so you are saying ARC and things like the Surround Modes in the D2v operate at different sample rates according to the rate of the audio input? ONLY the DACs operate at fixed, 192 KHz?
> 
> 
> I could have sworn we discussed this. Ah well, memory is the first thing to go.....
> 
> --Bob


 

Bob:

 

This is what Andrew told me today regarding this question...

 

David,

 

According to engineering they told me that the Up sampler is ahead of the DAC.

 

*Andrew Cirurgiao*
Technical Support

 

So by ahead, i'm not sure where in the chain the Up-sampler chips would be whether at the inputs or after the DSP's but before the DACs themselves. Interesting thing to know though ...


----------



## AVfile

^ Nick already answered that: "just ahead of DAC chips" and could be considered part of the DAC stage in the D2v.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23214137
> 
> 
> ^ Nick already answered that: "just ahead of DAC chips" and could be considered part of the DAC stage in the D2v.


 

Yes, BUT ahead where in the chain? Is Up-sampling done before the DSP or after the DSP? Bob's original thought was that it was before the DSP.

Andrew further clarified it for me ... after the DSP.

 

David,

 

The sequence of events goes as such.

 

*Input* *à* *DSP* *à* *Upsampler* *à* *DAC* *à* *Volume control*

 

 

*Andrew Cirurgiao*
Technical Support


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23215600
> 
> David,
> 
> The sequence of events goes as such.
> 
> *Input* *à* *DSP* *à* *Upsampler* *à* *DAC* *à* *Volume control*
> 
> 
> 
> *Andrew Cirurgiao*
> Technical Support


Interesting, so the DSP must run at whatever the input rate is, which can be anything up to and including 24/192. I would have thought it better to put the up sampler before the DSP so all processing is performed at the highest rate to keep processing artifacts as far away from the audible range as possible.


Cheers


----------



## dmusoke


The DSPs probably don't have the bandwidth to process at all eight audio channels at 192K? But if that's the case, then LPCM input data @24b/192K would have to be down-sampled to 24b/96K for ARC processing... Maybe you should ask Anthem as I might have exhausted my questions quota


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23216673
> 
> 
> The DSPs probably don't have the bandwidth to process at all eight audio channels at 192K? But if that's the case, then LPCM input data @24b/192K would have to be down-sampled to 24b/96K for ARC processing... Maybe you should ask Anthem as I might have exhausted my questions quota



By definition DSP entails all the ADC and DAC processing so what Anthem is saying or the terms we are using and what we are attempting to sort out is confusing.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23216766
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23216673
> 
> 
> The DSPs probably don't have the bandwidth to process at all eight audio channels at 192K? But if that's the case, then LPCM input data @24b/192K would have to be down-sampled to 24b/96K for ARC processing... Maybe you should ask Anthem as I might have exhausted my questions quota
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By definition DSP entails all the ADC and DAC processing so what Anthem is saying or the terms we are using and what we are attempting to sort out is confusing.
Click to expand...

 

Stu:

 

I'm using the DSP term in a literal sense. I'm talking about the 56-bit dual Motorola DSP chips they use to run their software algorithms including ARC and the various Dolby and THX surround modes. No signal processing is going on in the ADC or the DAC. Changing the sampling modes or rates in a DAC is not termed as digital signal processing per se.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500#post_23192716
> 
> 
> An interesting technical review of ARC ... http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/audio-calibration/audio-calibration-reviews/anthem-room-correction-arc-system-part-1.html


 

Part 2 of ARC's in depth review:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/audio-calibration/audio-calibration-reviews/anthem-room-correction-arc-including-a-subwoofer/all-pages.html

 

 

*Conclusions on the Performance of ARC with a Subwoofer*

 

I have presented a significant number of graphs in this section. They represent only a small population of the measurements I made to confirm the ARC system is able to join main channels (four different speakers tested) and a subwoofer (two models tested) seamlessly. Of the room correction systems I have tested, only the Anthem ARC has the ability to create the correct filter shapes for each channel correctly, with the corresponding flat total response curve. This result is achieved at any sensible crossover frequency chosen by the user - an option not available in some room correction systems. A few room-independent room EQ components selling for well into five figures for eight channels may be able to produce these results, but I have not tested them. Such independent components introduce a redundant ADC and DAC into the system that could affect sound quality. This is why it is critical that the state-of-the-art room correction system, such as ARC, be internal to the AVR or Pre/Pro

 

Many other reviewers have tested ARC-enabled products and provided subjective impressions, so I will provide only a simple observation. Before the Anthem ARC, I had never heard a system with a subwoofer that had not been degraded in the crossover area. To me, this degradation from other room correction systems I have had access to, was far more significant than the extension of the bottom end. I am not the only one who appears to have come to this conclusion. How many equipment reviewers who work in the domain of two-channel music systems are using subwoofers?  If these reviewers had access to an Anthem product with ARC, some minds might be changed.


----------



## chileboy

^ Very nice!










- Mark


----------



## benleeys

Hi,


Has anybody encountered a "no audio" situation with discs encoded with *DTS-HD 2.0 tracks specifically from Warner Bros* studios? LPCM plays fine though.


So far, I've experienced this issue with 2 such discs. No problem with discs from the other studios at all.


Ben


----------



## AVfile

I've noticed the display shows "NO SIGNAL" with 2.0 and 1.0 tracks yet there is sound, i.e. just another display bug.


Yes I have the latest FW 3.09h


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40590#post_23217663
> 
> 
> I've noticed the display shows "NO SIGNAL" with 2.0 and 1.0 tracks yet there is sound, i.e. just another display bug.
> 
> 
> Yes I have the latest FW 3.09h



On my D2v, the display shows correctly DTS-HD Stereo, but there is no sound, only picture. Occasionally, there's a beep, as if the sound is trying to get out, but is blocked. This issue happens only on my 2 Warner discs. I have to configure output from the Oppo to LPCM to get sound.


The other discs with such tracks from 20th Century and other studios are fine.


Looks to me like there's something about the Warner discs that the D2v doesn't like. Am still using the official firmware.


Ben


----------



## AVfile

Hopefully someone else chimes in because I am stumped! You should mention the titles in case someone else has them.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40590#post_23217935
> 
> 
> Hopefully someone else chimes in because I am stumped! You should mention the titles in case someone else has them.



The no sound discs -


Grumpy Old Men (Warner Bros)

Clash of the Titans (1981) (Warner Bros)


The ok discs -


El Mariachi (Columbia Pics)

Indian Summer (Mill Creek)

The Man From Snowy River (20 Century Fox)

Mystic Pizza (MGM)


All 6 dics have DTS-HD 2.0 sound tracks.


Ben


----------



## Bittornado




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40500_50#post_23203459
> 
> 
> Seb:
> 
> 
> I'm totally shocked that Sweden, the home country of all beautiful blonde babes we idolized as teenager(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) is so backwards in its TV delivery services!!! I mean, this is the country of ABBA, Nokia(?) and other goodies?
> 
> 
> Man, anyways, if you plane to get a USB base TV tuner, Amazon Germany is the closest to you and I have found a few highly rated ones (4 stars and above) for you at http://www.amazon.de/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_four_bro_mrr_0?rh=n%3A1197292%2Ck%3Atv+tuner%2Cp_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A181071031&keywords=tv+tuner&ie=UTF8&qid=1365974155&rnid=181070031#/ref=sr_nr_p_72_0?rh=n%3A562066%2Ck%3Atv+tuner%2Cp_72%3A419117031&keywords=tv+tuner&ie=UTF8&qid=1365974299&rnid=419116031
> 
> 
> You can further sort them out for free shipping and the price point you want to pay and also if you want to buy a new or used unit. Prices seem to be reasonable(?) at under 50 euros for most. Some of these are have SCART connectors and not sure if the 600M has one. If so, then your setup would be simplified greatly and not have to worry about turning on a PC to watch TV.
> 
> 
> In general regarding USB TV tuner sticks, you plug the RF cable at one end of the USB stick and out comes the TV signal displayed on your laptop/computer . You may then connect the HDMI/Composite output of the laptop/Computer to the D2v HDMI and composite inputs respectively.
> 
> Too bad the 600M doesn't have USB inputs for  then you'd be able to connect the USB tuner stick directly to the plasma directly!
> 
> 
> As a solution to the above, you may look into USB-to-HDMI cables for cheap here at http://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85Z%C3%95%C3%91&url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=usb%20to%20hdmi%20adapter#/ref=sr_nr_p_72_0?rh=n%3A562066%2Ck%3Ausb+to+hdmi+adapter%2Cp_72%3A419117031&keywords=usb+to+hdmi+adapter&ie=UTF8&qid=1365977456&rnid=419116031
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then plug into your 600M or D2v HDMI inputs and you are done!
> 
> 
> Anyways, best of luck in your search for the perfect solution for now ...
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> David



Hi David!

Thanks again for the help and for your reply... well, what can I say?! Many people including myself once considered Sweden to be one of the most advanced and industrialized countries in the world. Heck Swedes even built their own fighter jet planes! Name any other country in the world with a total population of only 9 million people to build their own fighter jet planes! The country went from a very poor and total disaster to become one of the best countries in the world regarding health-care phones mobiles internet wood/paper/robot/car industry in just 45 yrs... the only problem was that EVERYTHING has been built on the idea of taxation. After Norway we have the highest tax payers in the world... and now that other rising countries are taking over the production labor role and doing it very cheaply as well, Sweden suddenly has no competitive power left because even making a chewing gum costs about 10 times more here than in China and India! So now the majority of that advanced high ranked industry has been either sold out or wiped out, and we're left with basically nothing but Ericsson (Nokia is a Finnish company btw!) and SAAB... the former operates now mainly abroad, the latter is desperately trying to sell weapons to the third world countries in the most bizarre ways! No more ABBA, nor more Bjorn Borg (the highest ranked tennis player from Sweden nowadays is a 500-ranked guy... compare that to the mid 80:s when Sweden had 6 of the top ten highest ranking players in the world!)...


Anyways, since we're now all about paying more and more taxes with nothing in return, and since we joined EU in mid 90:s and now we're all tangled up in paying for other EU countries catastrophic economical situation with our tax money... we basically have no export industry left to talk about. Everything is being stripped down to margins... and since we don't have natural resources like gas and oil to sell (like Norway does)... and since starting companies is very expensive with high taxes and since it simply costs too much to hire employees... there are no dealers left to sell anything but basic food and clothing. Everything else and you have to go abroad. Unfortunately Sweden is far from its original force some 20 yrs ago...


Anyways, since I do not have a computer or lap top near my tv monitor in the living room, I was thinking of maybe acquiring a blu-ray with usb ports instead if that could work... then I'll get one of those RF/USB sticks and rount the signal through a blu-ray set. That way I would even get a blu-ray player at the same time...

I just don't know whether a blu-ray set is able to just pass an analog video signal through to the D2v? Would that really work? I mean a blu-ray player is not natively made for handling analog RF video signals...


----------



## gerard1meehan

Two questions


For some reason sometimes when I switch channels on my Direct TV Box my D2v displays a 2.0 audio source, and when I hit the volume is goes to 5.1 (on 5.1 sources, 2,0 sources are set to Anthem Cinema and no issue)


I am using an HDMI between the source and the anthem, and I am of firmwear 3.09h (it started on 3.09 official release)


So anyone else experience this?


Also any ARC updates on the horizon?


Thanks


Gerard


----------



## xMEATx

^^ I have a similar issue with my directv sat box, sometimes show 2.0 on the front panel display. Any interaction with the remote seems to correct the display. I noticed prior to changing to Fw 3.09.


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. Everything has been working perfectly for awhile now and loving the D2v, but my brother came over and brought his PS3 (slim) to play the new game Injustice on my main HT system but we ran into one problem no sound or picture. I upgraded my projector to a new JVC X-35 late last year and has been working fine with only my Oppo BD-95 player connected. The projector didn't ship with the newer firmware which addresses a 3D ghosting issue but I have no interest in 3D so didn't ship it back to have it installed. So I unplugged the Oppo from HDMI 1 (input) after trying input 2 and got nothing but same result with the PS3. I tried low video settings on the D2v but nothing worked. I'm not entirely convinced it's the D2v as I plugged the PS3 straight into the projectors HDMI-2 and got no picture so I'm thinking it's the projector, but wouldn't the audio aspect work through the D2v regardless of this when the PS3 is connected to the D2v? My setup is simple with just the Oppo and X-35 connected to the Anthem (projector into HDMI-1 (output) and Oppo in HDMI-1 (input).


I gave up last night and just connected the PS3 to my 32" Sony tv and everything worked so had to settle with that using just the TV's speakers. If it worked with the Sony (1080p Tv and same HDMI cable) then it should have worked in my main setup. Any ideas?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Anyways, since I do not have a computer or lap top near my tv monitor in the living room, I was thinking of maybe acquiring a blu-ray with usb ports instead if that could work... then I'll get one of those RF/USB sticks and rount the signal through a blu-ray set. That way I would even get a blu-ray player at the same time...
> 
> I just don't know whether a blu-ray set is able to just pass an analog video signal through to the D2v? Would that really work? I mean a blu-ray player is not natively made for handling analog RF video signals...


 

Best to call up the manufacturer and see if their RF/USB device can be viewed as a storage device by a bluray player...sad about the decline of Sweden







!


----------



## Shayne2

I have some info.


Recently changed my component hdmi to redmere (mono price ultraslims 3') . I would say that I do not believe in cables worth the investment however these computer chip hdmi are definitely worth a test. They are so diff that I will recal the Samsung


Regards


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23216766
> 
> 
> By definition DSP entails all the ADC and DAC processing so what Anthem is saying or the terms we are using and what we are attempting to sort out is confusing.



ADC = analog to digital converter

DSP = digital signal processor

DAC = digital to analog converter


(three different things)


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23213488
> 
> 
> ^ Nick, so you are saying ARC and things like the Surround Modes in the D2v operate at different sample rates according to the rate of the audio input? ONLY the DACs operate at fixed, 192 KHz?
> 
> 
> I could have sworn we discussed this. Ah well, memory is the first thing to go.....
> 
> --Bob



Can't recall the conversation... things have been so busy that even last month can feel like a thousand years ago.


The downrezzing goes on in the DSP when required and as the D2 transformed to the D2v, so did capabilities and limitations. In the D2, ARC always processed the source at its native rate because it was never higher than 96k samples/sec. It only needed to downrez for certain surround modes that didn't work at higher than 48k samples/sec. That was then and not the case now that 192k sources are involved. Several things have changed but ARC still does its thing at twice the rate of typical room correction systems. Strictly speaking it's not a limitation of the room correction system but of how many MIPS are available from the DSP running it.


And yes, D series DACs see nothing but 192k as set up by the upsampler immediately preceding them. The idea is to have a gentler low-pass filter so aliases can be filtered out without affecting the audio range (details are in the upsampling white paper).


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bittornado*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40590#post_23221115
> 
> 
> Anyways, since I do not have a computer or lap top near my tv monitor in the living room, I was thinking of maybe acquiring a blu-ray with usb ports instead if that could work... then I'll get one of those RF/USB sticks and rount the signal through a blu-ray set. That way I would even get a blu-ray player at the same time...
> 
> I just don't know whether a blu-ray set is able to just pass an analog video signal through to the D2v? Would that really work? I mean a blu-ray player is not natively made for handling analog RF video signals...



It won't work, USB tuners don't show up as storage devices (what a BD player will use). The only thing that comes even remotely close to what you're looking for is the Oppo which has HDMI passthrough, which is pretty useless since you could just plug that into the D2V the.


Aside from putting a PC with your equipment (which is the best option, IMO), the only thing I can think of that will work without a PC is Silicondust has released firmware for some of it's models (possibly only the US CableCard ones) that include a built in DLNA server, so you can use them with devices that support DLNA (which is quite a few devices these days) for live TV.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40590#post_23223553
> 
> 
> Hi guys. Everything has been working perfectly for awhile now and loving the D2v, but my brother came over and brought his PS3 (slim) to play the new game Injustice on my main HT system but we ran into one problem no sound or picture. I upgraded my projector to a new JVC X-35 late last year and has been working fine with only my Oppo BD-95 player connected. The projector didn't ship with the newer firmware which addresses a 3D ghosting issue but I have no interest in 3D so didn't ship it back to have it installed. So I unplugged the Oppo from HDMI 1 (input) after trying input 2 and got nothing but same result with the PS3. I tried low video settings on the D2v but nothing worked. I'm not entirely convinced it's the D2v as I plugged the PS3 straight into the projectors HDMI-2 and got no picture so I'm thinking it's the projector, but wouldn't the audio aspect work through the D2v regardless of this when the PS3 is connected to the D2v? My setup is simple with just the Oppo and X-35 connected to the Anthem (projector into HDMI-1 (output) and Oppo in HDMI-1 (input).
> 
> 
> I gave up last night and just connected the PS3 to my 32" Sony tv and everything worked so had to settle with that using just the TV's speakers. If it worked with the Sony (1080p Tv and same HDMI cable) then it should have worked in my main setup. Any ideas?



After your projector is on and then your D2v, hold the power button down on the PS3 for five seconds, wait for it to detect and answer the resolution question that appears. This was the fix for me but I have the older, fat PS3.


----------



## Supertaint

I am at a complete loss with ARC. I have hooked up the rs232 to a keyspan 19hs to the usb on my laptop. I have also hooked up the mic on another usb. When I run arc on the computer, the 50v shuts off, then turns on to sets to FM,display flashes a few times and I just get the error "failed to initialize wave audio capture device". I am running windows 8 and have already updated the keyspan drivers, shut off virus scan, checked the baud rate and rs232 is set to off. Anybody know what simple step I'm forgetting this time?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Supertaint*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40590#post_23225554
> 
> 
> I am at a complete loss with ARC. I have hooked up the rs232 to a keyspan 19hs to the usb on my laptop. I have also hooked up the mic on another usb. When I run arc on the computer, the 50v shuts off, then turns on to sets to FM,display flashes a few times and I just get the error "failed to initialize wave audio capture device". I am running windows 8 and have already updated the keyspan drivers, shut off virus scan, checked the baud rate and rs232 is set to off. Anybody know what simple step I'm forgetting this time?



ARC uses a portion of Windows to access the signal from the ARC mic. It is complaining that it can't get that going. In Windows 7 it was possible to install Windows without the Media components, and this would happen. The fix was to tell Windows to add those components into your Windows 7 install (which you can do without having to do a complete re-install). I don't use Windows 8 and don't know if a similar Windows configuration situation might exist there.


The other possibility is that you have some other sound input hardware (e.g., a built-in mic) which is getting in the way. For Windows 7, Anthem has a short document for how to check/correct this. I don't know if they've got that for Windows 8.


Your best bet is to call Anthem Tech Support and let them walk you through checking the ARC mic access on your Windows 8 computer. This would include things like making sure the mic cable is fully inserted at both ends and that Windows itself can actually see and access the ARC mic.


In the meantime, try going into Control Panel and Uninstalling the ARC application. Then download a fresh copy of ARC V3.0.2 from the Anthem web site and install that. If you originally installed ARC from your ARC install CD, that CD may have an older version on it. Depending on HOW old that CD is, you may also need to manually copy the two files from it which are your ARC license and your individual ARC mic calibration data file. These are on the CD where the Setup.EXE program (the installer itself) is located. They have names made up of numbers -- the serial number of your AVM 50v and the serial number of your ARC mic. Download and Unzip the ARC V3.02 install kit from the Anthem site. Go into the resulting folder a couple levels and find the Setup.EXE program. Now insert your original ARC install CD. If its installer starts up automatically, just quit out of it. Now go into the CD and find the Setup.EXE program on it, and thus the two files with the ARC license and ARC calibration data -- the two files with names made up of numbers. Copy those two files from the CD to the place in the downloaded version where you found the Setup.EXE program. Now eject the install CD; you are done with it. Finally run the Setup.EXE from the downloaded version. It will install ARC V3.0.2 and copy the two files to the right place at the same time.


You should reboot Windows after Uninstalling your current ARC and also after doing the new install.


If this is your FIRST time using ARC, it is also possible that you have a faulty mic or faulty mic cable. It's pretty rare, but it happens. Anthem Tech Support can get you warranty replacements.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40590#post_23225232
> 
> 
> After your projector is on and then your D2v, hold the power button down on the PS3 for five seconds, wait for it to detect and answer the resolution question that appears. This was the fix for me but I have the older, fat PS3.



Yep did that and it didn't work as we didn't even get a picture to display to see that message (PS3 Slim). My brother also has a D2v but a Sony projector and it worked without issues for him so I'm thinking it's the JVC.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40590#post_23226729
> 
> 
> Yep did that and it didn't work as we didn't even get a picture to display to see that message (PS3 Slim). My brother also has a D2v but a Sony projector and it worked without issues for him so I'm thinking it's the JVC.



I had to do it more than once to get the message up.


----------



## JMJ24

I set up the Anthem ARC for my new Anthem Statement D2V yesterday. The latest firmware for the D2V and the ARC software were installed. I used a serial to USB adaptor from Belkin that Piero at Anthem recommended. I could not get ARC to recognize the D2V using my current laptop (Dell Windows 7 Untimate OS). I had to pull out an old IBM ThinkPad with Windows xp installed and ARC worked perfectly. Why is it that ARC in 2013 cannot be used with Windows 7 (and what about Windows 8?) Windows xp is two OS behind. Is ARC usable with Windows 7? If so, what do I need to do to have it work? I won't have the old Think Pad around forever. Thanks.


----------



## dmusoke


Win 7 ARC Setup.pdf 486k .pdf file

 

 

 

 


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JMJ24*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40590#post_23229932
> 
> 
> I set up the Anthem ARC for my new Anthem Statement D2V yesterday. The latest firmware for the D2V and the ARC software were installed. I used a serial to USB adaptor from Belkin that Piero at Anthem recommended. I could not get ARC to recognize the D2V using my current laptop (Dell Windows 7 Untimate OS). I had to pull out an old IBM ThinkPad with Windows xp installed and ARC worked perfectly. Why is it that ARC in 2013 cannot be used with Windows 7 (and what about Windows 8?) Windows xp is two OS behind. Is ARC usable with Windows 7? If so, what do I need to do to have it work? I won't have the old Think Pad around forever. Thanks.


 

ARC and Win7 on my Dell Laptop (2008 model) works fine using the Keyspan  USB/RS232 adapter. The attached document helps running it with Win 7.

 

Does windows recognize the USB adaptor?


----------



## Supertaint

After installing the latest ARC software, it worked flawlessly on Windows 8.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JMJ24*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40590#post_23229932
> 
> 
> I had to pull out an old IBM ThinkPad with Windows xp installed and ARC worked perfectly. I won't have the old Think Pad around forever.



Using the same adapter or real RS-232 serial port? If the latter, I would hang onto that IBM for life


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JMJ24*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40590#post_23229932
> 
> 
> I set up the Anthem ARC for my new Anthem Statement D2V yesterday. The latest firmware for the D2V and the ARC software were installed. I used a serial to USB adaptor from Belkin that Piero at Anthem recommended. I could not get ARC to recognize the D2V using my current laptop (Dell Windows 7 Untimate OS). I had to pull out an old IBM ThinkPad with Windows xp installed and ARC worked perfectly. Why is it that ARC in 2013 cannot be used with Windows 7 (and what about Windows 8?) Windows xp is two OS behind. Is ARC usable with Windows 7? If so, what do I need to do to have it work? I won't have the old Think Pad around forever. Thanks.



The most common reason ARC doesn't work is that the USB/Serial stuff isn't working. The Keyspan (by Triplite) USA-19HS adapter is the one usually recommended, but Belkin makes good adapters, too. HOWEVER, the driver that comes packaged with the adapter may not be their latest one -- sometimes those packages last a long time on the peg before someone buys it. So go to their web site and see if there's a newer driver specifically for Windows 7. 32 vs. 64-bit Windows may need different choices of driver.


The driver aside, the OTHER problem is that sometimes the computer maker modifies the version of Windows that's pre-installed. And sometimes those modifications screw up the way the ARC application uses the USB/Serial or the USB connection to the mic. For Windows 7, a common problem is that the computer maker has pre-installed built-in mic access in a way that prevents ARC from getting to the ARC mic. That can be fixed in the Windows settings. Anthem Tech Support has a document on how to do that. Another common problem is Firewall software that apparently screws up the access to the USB/Serial. Sometimes the fix there is as simple as temporarily turning off the Firewall while you do an ARC run.


Lots of people use Windows 7 with ARC (me for instance -- a retail version of Home Edition running on a partition of my Mac), and you'll see a post just above about success with Windows 8. It's just that there are lots of ways Windows can be set up that keep ARC from working. USUALLY it's possible to cure whatever is going on in the Windows setup that's getting in the way, but that doesn't mean it's obvious or intuitive. Anthem Tech Support has been through this problem with many different Windows computers, so they can probably help you get your Dell Windows 7 setup working.


Full disclosure: I'm a Mac person, and it constantly amazes me ANY time something works on Windows....

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Supertaint*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40590#post_23230167
> 
> 
> After installing the latest ARC software, it worked flawlessly on Windows 8.



Cool! Glad you got it working.

--Bob


----------



## JMJ24

Same adaptor.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39780#post_22852704
> 
> 
> That's likely because that command is already in the Harmony definition database entry for the D2v. It's just not called Menu. It's called Sub/LFE, which is what that button does if you press and release it rather than press and hold it to bring up the on-screen Setup menu.
> 
> 
> Use Harmony's pre-recorded definition for the Sub/LFE button as that one is specially coded to do something different when you press and hold.
> 
> 
> You'll also find the numerical digits are in their definition using the names for the special functions they do other than just being digits. So the 9 button is in there as a pre-defined code. It just happens to be named ToneBypass instead of 9.
> 
> --Bob



How do special functions like this appear in the cheaper Harmony remotes like the 650/700 with their smaller screens? Do you have to flip through pages to get to the "menu" "status" or "mode" functions for example? I'm looking at getting a new remote and curious which one has good support for the AVM/D2v. Not limited to Logitech, actually prefer URC but not wanting to spend every night for 2 weeks programming it.


----------



## stanger89

I wouldn't think you'd have to spend that much time programming a URC. I actually found my MX880 easier to program than a Harmony. With a Harmony I had to spend all my time figuring out how to "trick" it into doing what I want, with URC, I just did it.


What is different with a URC is you have to have to make the macros/activities on your own rather than the software doing it forward. I think a lot of people are put off by that, but really it means little more than just having to think through/know what you want to happen. If all your devices have discrete codes it's really easy.


If you want to get fancy (I did) you can setup variables to conditionally execute things like power on sequences, which is a tad more complicated but IMO it's more straight forward than figuring how to trick a Harmony.


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23232112
> 
> 
> How do special functions like this appear in the cheaper Harmony remotes like the 650/700 with their smaller screens? Do you have to flip through pages to get to the "menu" "status" or "mode" functions for example? I'm looking at getting a new remote and curious which one has good support for the AVM/D2v. Not limited to Logitech, actually prefer URC but not wanting to spend every night for 2 weeks programming it.



Get the MSC-400 and MX-980 They can be programmed in a few hours. I control, 4- LIGHTING zones, AIR conditioner, fan, OH-YA the D2 in RS232, OPPO105 in RS232, every thing else in IR. PS3, DVR-HD, T.V.. If you need help programming or lay outs or questions give me a PM.


----------



## JMJ24

Thanks for all the great advice. One additional question: when starting ARC, the "Fronts" are checked but greyed out. All other speakers are checked (surrounds, rears, subwoofer, etc.) and none of those are greyed out. Is it normal that the Fronts are greyed out? Thanks.


----------



## chileboy

^ That's just because you have to "at least" have fronts in order to run ARC










- Mark


----------



## JMJ24




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23233402
> 
> 
> ^ That's just because you have to "at least" have fronts in order to run ARC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Mark



Thanks, Mark.


----------



## Thxtheater

I have an RS-232 question for the group: I've been using Roomie Remote via IR with great success with the Anthem. The obvious drawback of IR is the lack of two-way communication. If I were to use an RS-232 adapter from iTach, does anyone know if the feedback will give you the exact volume level of the Anthem so that you can then see the volume, input, etc. all on the remote control screen.


----------



## shah993

The codes are not present in the roomie database but somebody has been working on a plist.Look in the roomie support forum.The codes which are available are for the MRX line.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23236208
> 
> 
> The codes are not present in the roomie database but somebody has been working on a plist.Look in the roomie support forum.The codes which are available are for the MRX line.



In terms of the codes, the IR database is just fine and I have the RS-232 spreadsheet from Anthem support. Are you saying, then, that the IR is fine but the RS-232 just needs to be programmed in?


For my initial purposes, I'd be happy to use the RS-232 just for volume. The volume is really the issue to have displayed based on the solution I'm trying to solve. I need a way for the user to see the RS-232 volume on their roomie app.


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23236011
> 
> 
> I have an RS-232 question for the group: I've been using Roomie Remote via IR with great success with the Anthem. The obvious drawback of IR is the lack of two-way communication. If I were to use an RS-232 adapter from iTach, does anyone know if the feedback will give you the exact volume level of the Anthem so that you can then see the volume, input, etc. all on the remote control screen.



I get the exact volume when I use RS-232 and iRule, so I imagine it will be the same for your situation.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23236295
> 
> 
> I get the exact volume when I use RS-232 and iRule, so I imagine it will be the same for your situation.



Perfect Kris and thanks for the reply on this! That makes sense. And you're using the iTach adapter?


----------



## jerbob

Hi everyone, I purchased new speakers (Vienna Acoustics Beethoven Baby Grand SE) to be used as my left & right front speakers. Should I wait until I feel that they are broken in to rerun ARC on my 50V? My dealer has a pair of these speakers on display and he said he felt they really began to sound good after approximately 100 hours. They will be replacing a pair of Vienna Mozart Grand speakers.


Thanks in advance for any advice.


----------



## AVfile

Does the RS-232 give you more discreet commands or just better feedback (2-way)?


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23240775
> 
> 
> Does the RS-232 give you more discreet commands or just better feedback (2-way)?



The goal in my specific case is feedback since the d2 and 50v don't have an IP interface. My understanding (and I'm happy to be wrong) is that the available command set is identical.


----------



## drhankz


AnthemAV_RS-232 Serial Commands.pdf 231k .pdf file


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40600_100#post_23240945
> 
> 
> The goal in my specific case is feedback since the d2 and 50v don't have an IP interface. My understanding (and I'm happy to be wrong) is that the available command set is identical.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40600_100#post_23240775
> 
> 
> Does the RS-232 give you more discreet commands or just better feedback (2-way)?


*Have you REVIEWED the RS232 Command Set???????????*


I have included the Anthem RS-232 Commands - *ABOVE*


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23240775
> 
> 
> Does the RS-232 give you more discreet commands or just better feedback (2-way)?



RS232 is NOT 2 way, and call Anthem for the spread sheet for RS232. MUCH more.


----------



## Stevetd

Hello gentlepeople, I installed my 3D board into my D2v yesterday afternoon and everything seems to be okay except for the fact that the only way to get a picture on HDMI's 1-4 is to select "Through". I'm talking about non 3D sources too. I have tried setting everything to Auto and that didn't work. I even compared settings on my 50v 3D and set them exactly the same and still no picture. I might reinstall the firmware and see if that works. I thought I'd do a quick check with you guys before calling support. Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23240775
> 
> 
> Does the RS-232 give you more discreet commands or just better feedback (2-way)?



The RS232 command set for the Anthems is extensive beyond belief -- WAY more functionality than you can get with the IR commands.


Last I checked, the documentation was included in the download for the ARC V3.0.2 install.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23241488
> 
> 
> Hello gentlepeople, I installed my 3D board into my D2v yesterday afternoon and everything seems to be okay except for the fact that the only way to get a picture on HDMI's 1-4 is to select "Through". I'm talking about non 3D sources too. I have tried setting everything to Auto and that didn't work. I even compared settings on my 50v 3D and set them exactly the same and still no picture. I might reinstall the firmware and see if that works. I thought I'd do a quick check with you guys before calling support. Thanks!



After you install the new hardware you HAVE TO re-install the firmware to activate it.

--Bob


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23241667
> 
> 
> After you install the new hardware you HAVE TO re-install the firmware to activate it.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


I apologize for not making myself clear but, I did perform a new firmware update after installing the new board. I was on 3.02ish before. The D2v says its a 3D model at start-up. I was just thinking that maybe there's a glitch that doing it again might fix.


Steve


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23241133
> 
> AnthemAV_RS-232 Serial Commands.pdf 231k .pdf file
> 
> I have included the Anthem RS-232 Commands - *ABOVE*



Thank you. I can see they are way more extensive indeed, but realize that the URC base station or iTach or whatever would have to be programmed to implement them.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40600_100#post_23242053
> 
> 
> Thank you. I can see they are way more extensive indeed, but realize that the URC base station would have to be programmed to implement them.



I use a *Crestron* System - It can do MAGIC via RS-232


----------



## AV_mike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jerbob*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23240733
> 
> 
> Hi everyone, I purchased new speakers (Vienna Acoustics Beethoven Baby Grand SE) to be used as my left & right front speakers. Should I wait until I feel that they are broken in to rerun ARC on my 50V? My dealer has a pair of these speakers on display and he said he felt they really began to sound good after approximately 100 hours. They will be replacing a pair of Vienna Mozart Grand speakers.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice.



Hi jerbob, I would rerun ARC immediately, due to the speaker change. If you feel that the sound changes subtly over the next few weeks, then rerun ARC again - it's not too much of a pain to do.

With modern manufacturing techniques the speakers should not really need an extended run-in period, just make sure they have settled at ambient temperature, and play some full range music to get the units suspension systems bedded in, and you should be good to go.

Regards, Mike.


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23242102
> 
> 
> I use a *Crestron* System - It can do MAGIC via RS-232



i program Crestron & have a Crestron system - just time & money to implement the command set, which as mentioned is extensive


mark


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40600_100#post_23243399
> 
> 
> i program Crestron & have a Crestron system - just time & money to implement the command set, which as mentioned is extensive
> 
> 
> mark



I am a Crestron Programmer Also.


There is a HARD way and a EASY way.


Guess which one I picked


----------



## thestewman

Strange !


Has anyone else heard a buzzing noise being emitted from the Anthem remote ?

I never noticed it before but there is a distinct buzzing coming from my Anthem remote.


Stew


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23236686
> 
> 
> Perfect Kris and thanks for the reply on this! That makes sense. And you're using the iTach adapter?



Yes, although for some reason the latest update for iRule killed my feedback. I have to figure out why this weekend. But it worked fine before the update.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23244317
> 
> 
> Strange !
> 
> 
> Has anyone else heard a buzzing noise being emitted from the Anthem remote ?
> 
> I never noticed it before but there is a distinct buzzing coming from my Anthem remote.
> 
> 
> Stew



Does it go away when the backlight goes out? It could be the backlight I suppose. If it bothers you, Anthem can get you a replacement -- even out of warranty they aren't expensive.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23241917
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23241667
> 
> 
> After you install the new hardware you HAVE TO re-install the firmware to activate it.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I apologize for not making myself clear but, I did perform a new firmware update after installing the new board. I was on 3.02ish before. The D2v says its a 3D model at start-up. I was just thinking that maybe there's a glitch that doing it again might fix.
> 
> 
> Steve
Click to expand...


When you do the firmware re-install, pull the power plugs for all your HDMI devices -- both sources and display -- to make sure the HDMI connections are not live. Many modern devices keep their HDMI sockets live even when the are "off".


If the re-install doesn't fix it, then another possibility is that the new boards are not properly seated in their sockets on the main board. Give Anthem Tech Support a call.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40560#post_23212982
> 
> 
> Since day 1 the kit's instructions have been saying...
> 
> 
> "STEP 7
> 
> *"IMPORTANT! The order of the next two steps must be followed exactly. Use the screws set aside in Step 4.*
> 
> 
> "a) Install the 3 screws holding the small L-brackets to the rear of the chassis, as shown.
> 
> 
> "b) Using the Robertson #0 bit, tighten the 3 “L” Bracket screws into PCB as shown. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN."
> 
> 
> ...in other words tighten screws on circuit board *after* tightening screws on rear panel or the board is guaranteed to be misaligned. Photos are page-width, close-up, and in color.
> 
> 
> The simple facts are that the dealer took things apart, put the same things back together, no parts were changed, only alignment, and wow look it worked! Hmph...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23241917
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I apologize for not making myself clear but, I did perform a new firmware update after installing the new board. I was on 3.02ish before. The D2v says its a 3D model at start-up. I was just thinking that maybe there's a glitch that doing it again might fix.
> 
> 
> Steve



It would be a good idea to also make sure the boards are seated correctly before the re-install of the firmware.


Follow theses words of wisdom


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23244713
> 
> 
> When you do the firmware re-install, pull the power plugs for all your HDMI devices -- both sources and display -- to make sure the HDMI connections are not live. Many modern devices keep their HDMI sockets live even when the are "off".
> 
> 
> If the re-install doesn't fix it, then another possibility is that the new boards are not properly seated in their sockets on the main board. Give Anthem Tech Support a call.
> 
> --Bob



Okay and thanks for your replies.


One funny thing did happened when I was doing the install that may have been telling me that something was amiss. I had backed up my settings with the settings back-up program within the ARC software. When I tried to reinstall via that same program it said it couldn’t find the unit. I disconnected the serial cable, restarted both the D2v and my laptop and when I connected everything back it did the very same thing. I don’t know.


I bet I’ll know when I try to re-install 3.09.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23241662
> 
> 
> The RS232 command set for the Anthems is extensive beyond belief -- WAY more functionality than you can get with the IR commands.
> 
> 
> Last I checked, the documentation was included in the download for the ARC V3.0.2 install.
> 
> --Bob



Absolutely perfect. This will solve the issue of pre-setting the volume to a pre-determined level. So that you can have "Movie late night" and have the volume automatically go to -40, Movie standard go to -15, and reference go to -10 or 0. That alone is just what's needed. Plus programming the sleep, etc. etc. and there's no guess work as to whether or not it was activated.


----------



## chileboy

I've had a somewhat minor issue since Day 1 that I haven't been able to solve (and may not be solvable).


My display is a RPTV that I still have to calibrate periodically. To do the RGB convergence I use a standard grid template for my set, which is set for 5% overscan all-around.


The problem I am having is that all sources are cut off a bit on all sides - so for instance I can't always see the text crawl at the bottom of the screen when watching cable, I can't see all of the menu on my Roku, etc.


What I've been doing all along is, after calibrating, using the the display's service menu to shrink the image to 3% overscan. But that affects the calibration negatively, especially the geometry near the corners.


I was wondering if there's something I've overlooked in the video settings of my Anthem AVM50 to work around this, to somehow shrink the picture a bit. Zoom Size, which seems to affect that, is already at the max of 100. I've tinkered with most or all of the other settings (except Custom Resolution) without success.


I thought that 5% overscan was assumed, is that not the case?


Thanks,


- Mark


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40620#post_23244323
> 
> 
> Yes, although for some reason the latest update for iRule killed my feedback. I have to figure out why this weekend. But it worked fine before the update.



Thanks Kris, that's perfect and just what I wanted to confirm since I knew that the iRule used the iTach as their primary mode of IP to IR/RS-232 conversion.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23246470
> 
> 
> I've had a somewhat minor issue since Day 1 that I haven't been able to solve (and may not be solvable).
> 
> 
> My display is a RPTV that I still have to calibrate periodically. To do the RGB convergence I use a standard grid template for my set, which is set for 5% overscan all-around.
> 
> 
> The problem I am having is that all sources are cut off a bit on all sides - so for instance I can't always see the text crawl at the bottom of the screen when watching cable, I can't see all of the menu on my Roku, etc.
> 
> 
> What I've been doing all along is, after calibrating, using the the display's service menu to shrink the image to 3% overscan. But that affects the calibration negatively, especially the geometry near the corners.
> 
> 
> I was wondering if there's something I've overlooked in the video settings of my Anthem AVM50 to work around this, to somehow shrink the picture a bit. Zoom Size, which seems to affect that, is already at the max of 100. I've tinkered with most or all of the other settings (except Custom Resolution) without success.
> 
> 
> I thought that 5% overscan was assumed, is that not the case?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> - Mark



Actually 0% overscan is what you should be aiming for in the Display. Only activate overscan in the Display if you can't make it work any other way.


0% overscan will let you see the entire image in quality content, and, if you have a 1080p native resolution TV this will also mean you aren't scaling 1080p content (as from Blu-ray discs).


Now some displays can not produce a quality image at the edges when set to 0% overscan, and if that's true of your TV then a compromise setting may be what you need. But if the DISPLAY doesn't need overscan, then the only reason to impose it is to get rid of garbage around the edges of lower quality content such as broadcast TV. And that the AVM 50 can do for you by activating Edges On in the Video Source Adjust menu for each such lower quality Source and picking a pixel value. 6 pixels is typical, and will eliminate 6 pixels from all 4 edges -- scaling the rest of the image to still fill your display.


To directly answer your question, there is no function in the AVM 50 to "shrink" an image ("underscan"). So if you HAVE TO use overscan in your current Display, you'll have to live with the loss of some image off the edges until you can move to a better Display.


NOTE: Some Source devices have their own "underscan" mode. For example, the Zoom function in the OPPO players will do that. But even with those, some discs block the player's ability to implement that function.

--Bob


----------



## mkaye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23246546
> 
> 
> Actually 0% overscan is what you should be aiming for in the Display. Only activate overscan in the Display if you can't make it work any other way.
> 
> 
> 0% overscan will let you see the entire image in quality content, and, if you have a 1080p native resolution TV this will also mean you aren't scaling 1080p content (as from Blu-ray discs).
> 
> 
> Now some displays can not produce a quality image at the edges when set to 0% overscan, and if that's true of your TV then a compromise setting may be what you need. But if the DISPLAY doesn't need overscan, then the only reason to impose it is to get rid of garbage around the edges of lower quality content such as broadcast TV. And that the AVM 50 can do for you by activating Edges On in the Video Source Adjust menu for each such lower quality Source and picking a pixel value. 6 pixels is typical, and will eliminate 6 pixels from all 4 edges -- scaling the rest of the image to still fill your display.
> 
> 
> To directly answer your question, there is no function in the AVM 50 to "shrink" an image ("underscan"). So if you HAVE TO use overscan in your current Display, you'll have to live with the loss of some image off the edges until you can move to a better Display.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Some Source devices have their own "underscan" mode. For example, the Zoom function in the OPPO players will do that. But even with those, some discs block the player's ability to implement that function.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, he has an RPTV - analog CRT's bouncing off a mirror

overscan is standard to hide the distortion in the corners

& he is correct, changing the picture size changes the convergence

there is no solution to get to 0%, the best we aimed for while calibrating these was 3%, but it required a lot of work on the convergence


mark


----------



## AVfile

In the early days of HDTV you would have been safe with 5% but that was an unwritten rule, long since forgotten.


A more advanced processor like the Lumagen would be able to underscan the picture for you, but it costs more than a new TV.


----------



## chileboy

^3 Well, I can see where this is going, something I already knew, I need a new display! Just a little hard for me to swing right now, plus hard to justify when the calibrated picture on my Toshiba 65HX81 still looks pretty great IMO.I am feeding the Anthem 1080p from my PS3, scaled to 1080i for my display, and Blu-rays look fantastic


But a new display is on the list with an OPPO BDP-103 - and of course a D2v. I have to say the current crop of Panasonic plasmas are tempting, not sure I can wait for OLED.


I had thought overscan was intentional and necessary, otherwise one would end up seeing boom mikes, etc., intended to be offscreen. But maybe I'm really showing my age.


Thanks everyone.


- Mark


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23246470
> 
> 
> I can't always see the text crawl at the bottom of the screen when watching cable, I can't see all of the menu on my Roku, etc.



Are any of these Sports/News channels broadcasting in 720p still? Can you run the Roku at 720p? You can setup new "sources" and disable the upscaling in Anthem (set it to No Scaling in the SCALE OUT menu) and that will give you a smaller image centered in the screen. Under this sub-menu there are custom settings for output size and position but they do not appear to be working correctly (50v latest beta firmware). So it would be OK for brief, non-critical viewing but I wouldn't suggest that on a permanent basis.


> Quote:
> in the video settings of my Anthem AVM50 to work around this, to somehow shrink the picture a bit. Zoom Size, which seems to affect that, is already at the max of 100.



I just tried these controls and they aren't behaving like I would expect:

1) Horizontal & Vertical Size are simply cropping the image, which is duplication of the CROP INPUT menu, rather than scaling it. Bug?

2) Horizontal & Vertical Position are not doing anything. Bug?


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23248016
> 
> 
> I had thought overscan was intentional and necessary, otherwise one would end up seeing boom mikes, etc., intended to be offscreen. But maybe I'm really showing my age.



In the analog days it was. With NTSC (and PAL) there it was essentially all just a single analog waveform and it carried both the picture and other data (like closed captions), plus analog displays were hard (impossible) to calibrate to perfectly fit the screen so there was overscan, partially by practical engineering and partly by necessity to keep non-picture data off screen. I don't think it was ever to keep picture "goofs" from being seen.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mkaye*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23247435
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23246546
> 
> 
> Actually 0% overscan is what you should be aiming for in the Display. Only activate overscan in the Display if you can't make it work any other way.
> 
> 
> 0% overscan will let you see the entire image in quality content, and, if you have a 1080p native resolution TV this will also mean you aren't scaling 1080p content (as from Blu-ray discs).
> 
> 
> Now some displays can not produce a quality image at the edges when set to 0% overscan, and if that's true of your TV then a compromise setting may be what you need. But if the DISPLAY doesn't need overscan, then the only reason to impose it is to get rid of garbage around the edges of lower quality content such as broadcast TV. And that the AVM 50 can do for you by activating Edges On in the Video Source Adjust menu for each such lower quality Source and picking a pixel value. 6 pixels is typical, and will eliminate 6 pixels from all 4 edges -- scaling the rest of the image to still fill your display.
> 
> 
> To directly answer your question, there is no function in the AVM 50 to "shrink" an image ("underscan"). So if you HAVE TO use overscan in your current Display, you'll have to live with the loss of some image off the edges until you can move to a better Display.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Some Source devices have their own "underscan" mode. For example, the Zoom function in the OPPO players will do that. But even with those, some discs block the player's ability to implement that function.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob, he has an RPTV - analog CRT's bouncing off a mirror
> 
> overscan is standard to hide the distortion in the corners
> 
> & he is correct, changing the picture size changes the convergence
> 
> there is no solution to get to 0%, the best we aimed for while calibrating these was 3%, but it required a lot of work on the convergence
> 
> 
> mark
Click to expand...


Yep. As I said, with some TVs you have no choice but to accept Overscan. But that is not a desirable condition -- it's making the best you can with what you've got. That's where the "better Display" comment comes in.










In any event, there is no "underscan" function offered in the Anthem. And "underscan" applied by the Source device will result in a loss of image quality. (In general, any time you are scaling by small amounts, where the content is almost the same size as the end result, you are going to get artifacts. Basically, visible rounding errors in the scaling.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23248293
> 
> 
> I just tried these controls and they aren't behaving like I would expect:
> 
> 1) Horizontal & Vertical Size are simply cropping the image, which is duplication of the CROP INPUT menu, rather than scaling it. Bug?
> 
> 2) Horizontal & Vertical Position are not doing anything. Bug?



Not bugs. Zoom is a different, and MUCH LOWER QUALITY way of doing the Crop. The only time you should EVER be using the Zoom function is for diagnostic purposes during setup. (Zoom is done before the scaling, which will generate more artifacts.)


As for the Crop, Horizontal and Vertical position shift the Crop, but only if a Crop is actually in effect. I.e., if you are set to extract just a portion of the image, the positioning sets whether that is the center of the image or shifted in some direction. This can be useful, for example, if you open up the Crop on a "scope" film to include subtitles positioned under the film (in a Constant Image Height projection setup for example). But now you have a black bar on top as well. So you shrink the Crop vertically and shift it down so the film is in the top of the Crop (no black bar on top) and then subtitle is still included at the bottom. Examples of this are given in the technical post links in the first post of this thread. Note that Anamorphic vs. Pillar Box scaling can confuse you on this. Again see those tech posts.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Got it, thanks Bob!


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23248016
> 
> 
> ^3 Well, I can see where this is going, something I already knew, I need a new display! Just a little hard for me to swing right now, plus hard to justify when the calibrated picture on my Toshiba 65HX81 still looks pretty great IMO.I am feeding the Anthem 1080p from my PS3, scaled to 1080i for my display, and Blu-rays look fantastic
> 
> 
> But a new display is on the list with an OPPO BDP-103 - and of course a D2v. I have to say the current crop of Panasonic plasmas are tempting, not sure I can wait for OLED.
> 
> 
> I had thought overscan was intentional and necessary, otherwise one would end up seeing boom mikes, etc., intended to be offscreen. But maybe I'm really showing my age.
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone.
> 
> 
> - Mark




I still have the same TV in my living room, but have a front projector in my theater room.


It is a wonderful TV considering that I think it is almost 14 years old...



Ed


----------



## yvan630

Hi,


I am owner of Anthem AVM 50V... I want to update with the last firmware so When I try to update... the software said...cannot connect to OKI bootloader... somedoby can help me?


I used the usb adapter include with my Anthem


Thanks


Yvan


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yvan630*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23260783
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I am owner of Anthem AVM 50V... I want to update with the last firmware so When I try to update... the software said...cannot connect to OKI bootloader... somedoby can help me?
> 
> 
> I used the usb adapter include with my Anthem
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Yvan



Yvan, your first attempt to load the firmware failed in a way that left the hardware unable to accept a new attempt at the firmware install. This is not common, but it happens from time to time.


There is an easy fix, which involves running a piece of software on your Windows PC called the "Flash Eraser" which communicates with the AVM 50v over the serial cable connection you already have set up and forces all the programmable parts of the AVM 50v into the proper state to accept a new firmware install. Then you re-install the firmware to complete the task. An unfortunate side effect is that all of your settings will be lost -- you'll have to reenter them after the firmware install -- but you won't have to send the unit in for service.


Now, the Flash Eraser utility program is on Anthem's password protected download page. Give Anthem Tech Support a call an they'll tell you how to get it and explain the simple instructions for running it. The only trick is to make sure you run the correct Flash Eraser (there are two of them on that page). One of them is for units like the AVM 50v that have video processors, and that's the one you want to download and run. By the way, there's no special installation procedure for the Flash Eraser utility. You just download it to your Windows PC and run it.

--Bob


----------



## yvan630

Hi Bob,


Thank you for the info...so...On the Anthem's paasword protected download page I saw two Flash Eraser utility program...V0.1 (AVM 20) and V2.3 (AVM20-HD and up)... Can you confirm me that the V2.3 is fine for my AVM 50V?


Yvan


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yep That's the one.


Some folks recommend running it a couple times, but just once should be sufficient.

--Bob


----------



## yvan630

Thank you Bob...I will try this Flash Eraser this week-end


Yvan


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23249040
> 
> 
> Not bugs. Zoom is a different, and MUCH LOWER QUALITY way of doing the Crop. The only time you should EVER be using the Zoom function is for diagnostic purposes during setup. (Zoom is done before the scaling, which will generate more artifacts.)
> 
> 
> As for the Crop, Horizontal and Vertical position shift the Crop, but only if a Crop is actually in effect. I.e., if you are set to extract just a portion of the image, the positioning sets whether that is the center of the image or shifted in some direction. This can be useful, for example, if you open up the Crop on a "scope" film to include subtitles positioned under the film (in a Constant Image Height projection setup for example). But now you have a black bar on top as well. So you shrink the Crop vertically and shift it down so the film is in the top of the Crop (no black bar on top) and then subtitle is still included at the bottom. Examples of this are given in the technical post links in the first post of this thread. Note that Anamorphic vs. Pillar Box scaling can confuse you on this. Again see those tech posts.
> 
> --Bob





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23249196
> 
> 
> Got it, thanks Bob!



Yes, that's very helpful Bob - thanks!


- Mark


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23248016
> 
> 
> ...the calibrated picture on my Toshiba 65HX81 still looks pretty great IMO....
> 
> 
> - Mark





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esander3*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23257643
> 
> 
> I still have the same TV in my living room, but have a front projector in my theater room.
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful TV considering that I think it is almost 14 years old...
> 
> 
> 
> Ed



That Toshiba was one of the best investments I ever made. I had it professionally calibrated the first few years, then started doing it myself, and when it's dialed-in it looks great. And never had a bit of trouble with it.


I've been streaming Game of Thrones via HBOGo on my Roku (1080p -> Anthem -> 1080i -> HDFury2) and I couldn't be happier. Much better experience than the nearly-new 40" Samsung LED in the bedroom.


- Mark


----------



## JA Fant

Owners-


are you guys liking the Anthem receivers?


----------



## Thxtheater

RS-232 issues? Good morning all, I'm trying to get Roomie Remote configured with RS-232 commands with the AVM50/D2 set of commands.


I hooked up my serial connection to the AVM and then have used hyperterm on Windows to see exactly what the Anthem is sending back. I'm continually getting "Invalid Command" on every key except for the '?" and the ';'. The ? properly sends back the current firmware of the unit and ; is the stop command so I get a line break.


I find it very odd that I cannot, for example, Send P1P1 to turn the unit on. As soon as I hit the "P" key, I get invalid command.


I likewise looked at the MRX series serial commands and it has some overlapping commands, such as "power on". But even using the MRX serial config in Roomie to "power on" the AVM doesn't work--even though the serial command is the same?!


I've never had any problems using the serial connection to upload or tweak ARC settings or to upload firmware updates. I find all this behavior odd and I must be doing something wrong or missing something.


I used standard settings to connect, 19200, 8bits, 1, flow control none.


Can anyone give me any insight on this as to what I'm doing wrong with the command syntax?


Here's a sample from the command file... I know commands are not followed by ; in this.
Code:


Code:


[CODE]brand
                Anthem
                cat
                50v-3D
                codes
                
                        POWER OFFP1P0
                        POWER ONP1P1

                        VOLUME DOWNP1VMD
                        VOLUME UPP1VMU
                        MUTE OFFP1M0
                        MUTE ONP1M1

                        .STATUSP1?
                        .VOLUME FORMAT1
                        .VOLUME STATUSP1VM?
                        .VOLUME SETP1V##
                        
                        INPUT 2-CH BALP1S1
                        INPUT 6-CH S/EP1S2
                        INPUT AUXP1S9
                        INPUT CDP1S0
                        INPUT DVD1P1S5
                        INPUT DVD2P1Sd
                        INPUT DVD3P1Se
                        INPUT DVD4P1Sf
                        INPUT FM/AMP1S4
                        INPUT SAT1P1S7
                        INPUT SAT2P1Sj
                        INPUT TV1P1S6
                        INPUT TV2P1Sg
                        INPUT TV3P1Sh
                        INPUT TV4P1Si
                        INPUT TAPEP1S3
                        INPUT VCRP1S8
                
                method
                lineio
                type
                16

[/CODE]


----------



## obie_fl

^ Sounds like a "lf" is getting sent with the letter when you press a key.


Do you have to press enter when you do a "?" or ";"?


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23266734
> 
> 
> ^ Sounds like a "lf" is getting sent with the letter when you press a key.
> 
> 
> Do you have to press enter when you do a "?" or ";"?



Hi Obie,


There are two scenarios here 1) Hyperterminal and 2) Roomie: I'm trying to debug things with hyperterminal first so that I can then convey what's what with Roomie Support. So I'm going to report on what I'm seeing with hyperterminal here.


To your question, *no, I don't have to press 'enter'.* *As soon as I press the key, the command it executed.* I didn't notice that so good observation. That raises the question as to why.


----------



## Thxtheater

I have it working. I'll be posting a sample serial file if anyone is a Roomie user and interested in testing it out for the D2 and AVM series (20,30,40,50)


----------



## obie_fl

Great what was the secret? I'm getting ready to give the iRule serial connection a shot.


----------



## mludviksen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23267840
> 
> 
> I have it working. I'll be posting a sample serial file if anyone is a Roomie user and interested in testing it out for the D2 and AVM series (20,30,40,50)



Were you able to get feedback from the D2V back to Roomie (volume, input, etc.), or is there something the developers need to add on their end?


I created a custom device file for the D2V as well, but I did not have the feedback working.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mludviksen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23270747
> 
> 
> Were you able to get feedback from the D2V back to Roomie (volume, input, etc.), or is there something the developers need to add on their end?
> 
> 
> Obie and mludviksen,
> 
> 
> I created a custom device file for the D2V as well, but I did not have the feedback working.



So here's where things stand:

I'm posting the current serial config file below. I'd appreciate it if you all wouldn't mind cross-testing it. I have it labeled as an AVM50v-3D right now so you can rename it to whatever you want. Just copy the code into a standard txt editor and call the file RoomieCodes.plist as you probably already know.
You may notice a few non-standard items I've included to test various command sets. For example, I have a string of commands to auto-set the volume to a pre-determined level so that it can be used in various contexts and listening environments. I have -42, -35, -25, -20, -15 set as standard volume levels at the press of a button.
In terms of the file, everything seems to work fine except for the SLEEP commands and the display feedback does not (yet) work. For SLEEP, the commands are correct, unless my eye sight has failed me; but the unit won't respond to them. I'd be curious if it works for you. I need to try a direct serial connection from my computer to see if there's any feedback and also do a session capture for roomie and send them the logs.
WIth regards to visual feedback on the iOS app, I'm working with Roomie on that right now. I'm going to go through a specific set of procedures and send over the data to them so that we can get the visual feedback working. This doesn't seem to be too daunting.
I've reached out to Anthem support that I'm working on this and they've been great (as usual). I didn't realize that Anthem had their own data analyzer, so I'll be using that going forward instead of my local communications tools.
What I finally figured out on my end was that the *likely* cause of the initial problem was the iTach Flex serial unit. I have one of the earliest releases of the iTach Flex serial , so I am not surprised if I find something odd. The unit wouldn't initially work without a firmware upgrade that had just been released that day. Also, when the support folks at Roomie told me that the logs were blank from the iTach, I had a hunch that the iTach was the problem. So, I did like every incredibly smart engineer does. I rebooted it.







That fixed the issue instantly. I had previously rebooted the unit. I still think I have something anomalous with the iTach Flex because there are some instances where commands won't go through. I'm getting confirmation on the remote side that the command has been successful, but the Anthem doesn't execute. I'll keep an ongoing eye on that and this may be specific to my situation.


mludviksen, if you don't mind helping me out with the Roomie config file, I'd certainly welcome the opportunity to have some peer help.
Code:


Code:


[CODE]brand
                Anthem
                cat
                50v-3D
                codes
                
                        .INPUT FORMAT6;
                        .INPUT STATUS ;
                        .MODE FORMAT6;
                        .MODE STATUSP1D?;
                        .POWER STATUSP1P?;
                        .STATUSP1?;
                        .STATUS FORMAT6;
                        .VOLUME FORMAT6;
                        .VOLUME SETP1V##;
                        .VOLUME STATUSP1VM?;
                        BACKP1Ue;
                        CURSOR DOWNP1Ud;
                        CURSOR ENTERP1Us;
                        CURSOR LEFTP1Ul;
                        CURSOR RIGHTP1Ur;
                        CURSOR UPP1Uu;
                        DIGIT 0P1U0;
                        DIGIT 1P1U1;
                        DIGIT 2P1U2;
                        DIGIT 3P1U3;
                        DIGIT 4P1U4;
                        DIGIT 5P1U5;
                        DIGIT 6P1U6;
                        DIGIT 7P1U7;
                        DIGIT 8P1U8;
                        DIGIT 9P1U9;
                        DYNAMICS RANGE LATE NIGHTP1C2;
                        DYNAMICS RANGE NORMALP1C0;
                        DYNAMICS RANGE REDUCEDP1C1;
                        EXITP1Uq;
                        INPUT 2-CH BALP1S1;
                        INPUT 6-CH S/EP1S2;
                        INPUT AUXP1S9;
                        INPUT CDP1S0;
                        INPUT DVD1P1S5;
                        INPUT DVD2P1Sd;
                        INPUT DVD3P1Se;
                        INPUT DVD4P1Sf;
                        INPUT FM/AMP1S4;
                        INPUT SAT1P1S7;
                        INPUT SAT2P1Sj;
                        INPUT TAPEP1S3;
                        INPUT TV1P1S6;
                        INPUT TV2P1Sg;
                        INPUT TV3P1Sh;
                        INPUT TV4P1Si;
                        INPUT VCRP1S8;
                        MODE 2CH ALL CHANNEL MONOP1Ec9;
                        MODE 2CH ALL CHANNEL STEREOP1Ec8;
                        MODE 2CH ANTHEMLOGIC-CINEMAP1Ec2;
                        MODE 2CH ANTHEMLOGIC-MUSICP1Ec1;
                        MODE 2CH MONOP1Eca;
                        MODE 2CH MONO ACADEMYP1Ecb;
                        MODE 2CH Neo:6-CINEMAP1Ec7;
                        MODE 2CH Neo:6-MUSICP1Ec6;
                        MODE 2CH OFFP1Ec0;
                        MODE 2CH PROLOGICP1Ec5;
                        MODE 2CH PROLOGIC IIx MOVIEP1Ec4;
                        MODE 2CH PROLOGIC IIx MUSICP1Ec3;
                        MODE 2CH PROLOGIC IIx-GameP1Ecd;
                        MODE 2CH PROLOGIC IIx-MatrixP1Ecc;
                        MODE 2CH THX CINEMAP1ETc1;
                        MODE 2CH THX OFFP1ETc0;
                        MODE 7.1 THX CINEMAP1EWc1;
                        MODE 7.1 THX OFFP1EWc0;
                        MODE DD 2.0 ALL CHANNEL MONOP1EFc9;
                        MODE DD 2.0 ALL CHANNEL STEREOP1EFc8;
                        MODE DD 2.0 ANTHEMLOGIC-CINEMAP1EFc2;
                        MODE DD 2.0 ANTHEMLOGIC-MUSICP1EFc1;
                        MODE DD 2.0 MONOP1EFca;
                        MODE DD 2.0 MONO AcademyP1EFcb;
                        MODE DD 2.0 Neo:6-CINEMAP1EFc7;
                        MODE DD 2.0 Neo:6-MUSICP1EFc6;
                        MODE DD 2.0 OFFP1EFc0;
                        MODE DD 2.0 PROLOGICP1EFc5;
                        MODE DD 2.0 PROLOGIC IIx MOVIEP1EFc4;
                        MODE DD 2.0 PROLOGIC IIx MUSICP1EFc3;
                        MODE DD 2.0 PROLOGIC IIx-GameP1EFcd;
                        MODE DD 2.0 PROLOGIC IIx-MatrixP1EFcc;
                        MODE DD 2.0 THX CINEMAP1EUc1;
                        MODE DD 2.0 THX GamesP1EUc2;
                        MODE DD 2.0 THX OFFP1EUc0;
                        MODE DD 5.1 DOLBY DIGITAL EXP1EXc9;
                        MODE DD 5.1 Neo:6P1EXca;
                        MODE DD 5.1 Neo:6+THXP1EXcb;
                        MODE DD 5.1 OFFP1EXc0;
                        MODE DD 5.1 PLIIx MOVIEP1EXc6;
                        MODE DD 5.1 PLIIx MOVIE+THXP1EXc7;
                        MODE DD 5.1 PLIIx MUSICP1EXc8;
                        MODE DD 5.1 THX CINEMA 5.1P1EXc1;
                        MODE DD 5.1 THX Games ModeP1EXc5;
                        MODE DD 5.1 THX MUSIC MODEP1EXc3;
                        MODE DD 5.1 THX SURROUND EXP1EXc4;
                        MODE DD 5.1 THX ULTRA2 CINEMAP1EXc2;
                        MODE DD EX DOLBY DIGITAL EXP1EEc1;
                        MODE DD EX Neo:6P1EEc6;
                        MODE DD EX Neo:6+THXP1EEc7;
                        MODE DD EX OFFP1EEc0;
                        MODE DD EX PLIIx MOVIEP1EEc3;
                        MODE DD EX PLIIx MOVIE+THXP1EEc4;
                        MODE DD EX PLIIx MUSICP1EEc5;
                        MODE DD EX THX SURROUND EXP1EEc2;
                        MODE DTS 5.1 DOLBY DIGITAL EXP1EDc9;
                        MODE DTS 5.1 Neo:6P1EDca;
                        MODE DTS 5.1 Neo:6+THXP1EDc4;
                        MODE DTS 5.1 OFFP1EDc0;
                        MODE DTS 5.1 PLIIx MOVIEP1EDc6;
                        MODE DTS 5.1 PLIIx MOVIE+THXP1EDc7;
                        MODE DTS 5.1 PLIIx MUSICP1EDc8;
                        MODE DTS 5.1 THX CINEMA 5.1P1EDc1;
                        MODE DTS 5.1 THX GAME MODEP1EDc5;
                        MODE DTS 5.1 THX MUSIC MODEP1EDc3;
                        MODE DTS 5.1 THX ULTRA2 CINEMAP1EDc2;
                        MUTE OFFP1M0;
                        MUTE ONP1M1;
                        POWER OFFP1P0;
                        POWER ONP1P1;
                        SET VOLUME -15P1VM-15.00;
                        SET VOLUME -20P1VM-20.00;
                        SET VOLUME -25P1VM-25.00;
                        SET VOLUME -35P1VM-35.00;
                        SET VOLUME -42P1VM-42.00;
                        SETUPP1Uo;
                        SLEEP 30P1z1;
                        SLEEP 60P1z2;
                        SLEEP 90P1z3;
                        SLEEP OFFP1z0;
                        STATUSP1s;
                        VOLUME DOWNP1VMD;
                        VOLUME UPP1VMU;
                
                method
                lineio
                type
                16

[/CODE]


----------



## mludviksen

Thxtheater,


Thanks for posting your work. I noticed that you use a semi-colon after each command - I did not do that in my file, but it works fine. I also noticed that several of your keys that start with a '.' have a string of '6;' - what does that do? I posted my original attempt on the Roomie Support Forums and I noticed that you posted on that thread too - hopefully you had a chance to see my file or the updated file that the Roomie guys tweaked and cleaned up with the correct command names.


As far as the feedback goes for volume, etc., I'm pretty sure that the Roomie developers need to add a format that is specific to the Anthem D2V. They already have one for the MRX series, but the D2V is slightly different so we can't use that one. It sure would be nice if they took what we started and finished it off and made it an officially supported receiver!


I'm afraid I can't dive too deeply into the file you posted tonight, but I hope to spend some time on it this weekend.



Mark


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mludviksen*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40650#post_23273625
> 
> 
> Thxtheater,
> 
> 
> Thanks for posting your work. I noticed that you use a semi-colon after each command - I did not do that in my file, but it works fine. I also noticed that several of your keys that start with a '.' have a string of '6;' - what does that do? I posted my original attempt on the Roomie Support Forums and I noticed that you posted on that thread too - hopefully you had a chance to see my file or the updated file that the Roomie guys tweaked and cleaned up with the correct command names.
> 
> 
> As far as the feedback goes for volume, etc., I'm pretty sure that the Roomie developers need to add a format that is specific to the Anthem D2V. They already have one for the MRX series, but the D2V is slightly different so we can't use that one. It sure would be nice if they took what we started and finished it off and made it an officially supported receiver!
> 
> 
> I'm afraid I can't dive too deeply into the file you posted tonight, but I hope to spend some time on it this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



No worries! The ; may indeed be redundant. Now that I determined that the iTach was the problem I can remove the ; and see if it still works. The reason why I included it was that the roomie folks sent me over the MRX serial file, which is in binary, and it had the end of line marker. Since I was having no luck getting the commands to work, I added the semi-colon. Good to know it works without it. Because the serial command set is identical between the D2v and the 50v (and older AVM models), my assumption is that the feedback should therefore work across all the AVM and D2 models as well. The intent here is to certainly finish off the file with Roomie support's guidance and then submit it to them to have the D2v and AVM series supported with serial connectivity. The serial command base is extensive and very flexible; and with the ability to have IP to serial adapters that solves the lack of IP-ready interfacing on those models with a mature and proven command set.


Now, the reason for the '6' is because in the Roomie DDK, the number 6 corresponds to the Anthem-formatted volume response. You'll notice that '1' will give you the raw display back from any unit while the number '6' is specifically for Anthem. Don't take too much stock in my .INPUT FORMAT or .MODE FORMAT, etc. My assumption was that the DDK was written like some language texts in such a way to convey concepts as opposed to explaining every single occurrence. Therefore, if you extrapolate out the formatting for the volume status feedback you should logically use the same structure for other feedback elements you want to get from the Anthem. My goal is to try and run a quick serial test and grab off the AVM50v later this weekend or Monday and then send that grab back to Roomie. Getting the serial interface working with visual feedback on the Roomie platform is a pretty big deal as I have Roomie deployed in several locations and in some instances, it's really critical to get visual feedback without having direct access to the unit.


----------



## yvan630

Hi bob,


I used Flash Eraser...work fine...so when I want to install the new firmware I have this message...AVM 50v loader not responding at 115200 kbs...do you have a answer for me?


Yvan


----------



## yvan630

Hi bob,


I used Flash Eraser...work fine...so when I want to install the new firmware I have this message...AVM 50v loader not responding at 115200 kbs...do you have a answer for me?


Yvan


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yvan630*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40680#post_23278669
> 
> 
> Hi bob,
> 
> 
> I used Flash Eraser...work fine...so when I want to install the new firmware I have this message...AVM 50v loader not responding at 115200 kbs...do you have a answer for me?
> 
> 
> Yvan



If my memory is correct that is the wrong baud rate. I believe it should be 19200 kbs,'


----------



## yvan630

After some try it work until PROGRAMMING DSP FLASH CORE1 ...after said again,,,cannot connect to OKI bootloader...??? ...somebody know the problem?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yvan630*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40680#post_23279179
> 
> 
> After some try it work until PROGRAMMING DSP FLASH CORE1 ...after said again,,,cannot connect to OKI bootloader...??? ...somebody know the problem?



Did you reset the baud rate ?


I would do that first. Then Erase the flash again and then retry.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Right. Something is screwy with that serial connection. Yyvan, are you using the latest driver for the Keyspan by Tripplite USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter for your particular version of windows?

--Bob


----------



## yvan630

How reset the baud rate?


----------



## yvan630

Hi Bob,


Yes, I use the last driver for the Tripplite USA-19HS USB/Serial ...


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yvan630*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40680#post_23279983
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> Yes, I use the last driver for the Tripplite USA-19HS USB/Serial ...



You can find the manual here: http://www.tripplite.com/shared/techdoc/Owners-Manual/933022.pdf 


You should have the Keys Span Assistant v3.7 downloaded and available in your list of Windows programs after you ran the exe file.


Stew


----------



## yvan630

Thank for this info...so I re-install the driver and sorfware of Keys Span...Windows7 saw on com5... I execute Flash Eraser twice...all work...I start new firmware it work until PROGRAMMING DSP FLASH CORE1 ...after said again,,,cannot connect to OKI bootloader??? I don.t understand Why


----------



## thestewman

YVAN630


Maybe try a fresh start and recheck all your settings.


Do you have *ALL* your HDMI cables disconnected.

Setting up hardware drivers in Windows can be tricky.

Start your computer/laptop and go into Device Manager.

My Computer, Right click then left click on Device Manager

Delete *ALL* the drivers for the Keyspan AND all the USB adapters you may have tried before.

There should be NO USB adapters listed in Windows device Manager

Go to the Windows Control Panel and delete the Keyspan USB Adapter from the program list

Make sure you have the correct Keyspan driver for your version of Windows OS.

Do a new reinstall of the Keyspan exe from their zip file.


Turn off the D2v and disconnect the AC power cord. Wait about 1 minute and reconnect the AC power.


Do the flash erase of the D2v.


Connect the Keyspan Usb adapter. Do not connect the adapter directly onto the D2v use a cable between them.
_( Doing this from memory as I could not find the setup after searching through the forum)_

Go to your Windows program list and start the Keyspan Serial Assistant.

Go to properties and make sure you have a Com port from 1 to 6 selected.

Echo should be OFF

Baud Rate is 19200

Load your new Anthem firmware probably 3.09f


Hopefully I did not miss anything. If someone finds an error please jump in.



Good luck


Stew


----------



## yvan630

Hi Stew,


I followed for instruction...all work fine.....so always the same error...I start the firmware update..and after 5 min when the PROGRAMMING DSP FLASH CORE1 began...I have this message ,,,cannot connect to OKI bootloader...???


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yvan630*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40680#post_23282242
> 
> 
> Hi Stew,
> 
> 
> I followed for instruction...all work fine.....so always the same error...I start the firmware update..and after 5 min when the PROGRAMMING DSP FLASH CORE1 began...I have this message ,,,cannot connect to OKI bootloader...???


Yyvan,


Just to be clear, you are doing a new Flash Erase after each such error, correct? I.e., before you retry the firmware install?


If that's true then you need to get on the phone with Anthem Tech Support. Your Anthem may need service. There's a more elaborate type of hardware reset they can do, but that's typically for problems with programming the video board and that's not the problem you are having.


Did you by any chance just install the 3D upgrade for the AVM 50v and D2v? If so, one possibility is that those new daughter boards are not properly seated in their electrical sockets.


Another thing to try is to use a different computer, as I still think the basic problem here is a faulty serial connection from the Windows computer. If you don't have another Windows computer available, Anthem tech support can walk you through steps to help insure the serial connection will work on the one you have.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*Anthem has placed D2v and AVM 50v "Test" Firmware V3.09j on their Password Protected Download page*


"Test" Firmware V3.09j for the D2v and AVM 50v is now posted to Anthem's Password Protected Download page. Change notes for changes since the last "Official" version (V3.09) now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v3.09j beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed serial control issue where Zone 2 had no audio if powering on to tuner.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed AVM 50v issue where noise was present when playing 176.4 kHz source.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09h release candidate:
> 
> 
> 1. When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source was playing, a surround upmix mode couldn't be selected - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. False "No Input Signal" status info when receiving 2-channel input - fixed.
> 
> 
> 3. "Last Used" mode preset reverted to "None" under certain conditions - fixed.
> 
> 
> 4. Previous DTS changes now certified.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Output channel count was displayed incorrectly when 6-ch analog input was selected - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. Further DTS-required changes.
> 
> 
> Known issue: When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source is selected, a surround upmix mode can't be selected.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed bug where AVM 50v sometimes powered on with low volume.
> 
> 
> 2. DTS-required changes for pending certification. Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements.




This version is labeled a Beta instead of a Release Candidate, which suggests there may be at least one more "Test" release before the newer stuff becomes "Official".


As always, keep in mind that "Test" firmware is not done yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises, possibly requiring you to roll back to earlier firmware. Do not install a "Test" firmware release unless you are OK with that and still want to try it out.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I installed "Test" Firmware V3.09j on my D2v/3D, and re-Uploaded my existing ARC solution (my usual practice). No problems. No surprises. It passes all my quick sanity checks.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

What did I miss? There's new firmware?



Ahhhh never mind. I see it's Beta. Will keep an eye on the updates.


----------



## Thxtheater

Bob, thanks as always for giving new releases a first-pass and letting us know your impressions.


On another note, for those who may be using Roomie, I've assembled a fairly extensive command set for the D2v and 50v series. The command set, minus the video and HDMI, is also backwards compatible to the 20, 30, 40, and 50. If you want to test it out, here it is. Feedback still does not work. I'm waiting on word from Roomie to make whatever changes they need to on their end so that we'll be able to get volume, power, mute, input status feedback from the Anthem. I've also posted this to the Roomie forum but figured there may be a few fellow-Anthem users who would be interested in this as well. 
RoomieCodes.plist.txt 9k .txt file


----------



## dschamis

Gents - I have a new problem that just popped out of nowhere.


I have a D2 (v1.33) that has been working great for 5+ years.


Today the video from the D2 on my display went black.


I tried the display with different sources and it worked fine. I tried the D2 with a different display and different HDMI cables and it was black.


Anyone have any good ideas other than me contacting Anthem and sending the unit in?


Thanks in advance,


David


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dschamis*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40680#post_23303597
> 
> 
> Gents - I have a new problem that just popped out of nowhere.
> 
> 
> I have a D2 (v1.33) that has been working great for 5+ years.
> 
> 
> Today the video from the D2 on my display went black.
> 
> 
> I tried the display with different sources and it worked fine. I tried the D2 with a different display and different HDMI cables and it was black.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any good ideas other than me contacting Anthem and sending the unit in?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> David



Did you check your display using THE SAME HDMI Input that you normally feed from the D2? Double check that you are using the input/output sockets you THINK you are using and that the HDMI plugs are fully inserted straight into the sockets with nothing (e.g., cable weight) tugging the plug in any direction.


Make sure you are powering up the Main path of the D2. At the top of the remote press the Main button to tell the remote you want to control the Main path, then try powering up the D2. Test for video using the stuff the D2 can generated itself (independent of any Source device), such as the on-screen characters that come up when you press Select, or the Video Source Adjust Menu that comes up when you press an hold the "7" button. If the D2's own video is working, but you still can't get Source device video to display, then the problem is on the Source side.


You can navigate the D2's Setup menu using the Front Panel Display -- the menu pictures in the Manual are helpful.


First, go into Save and Restore settings and Save User Settings. Then Reload Factory Defaults. Do you get any of the D2's own video? If not, go into Setup > Video Output Configuration and change to 480p/60 output (which is the "simplest" HDMI signal -- note that this is 480p, not 480i). If still no luck, the only other thing you can do on your own is to try a re-install of the firmware.


Otherwise the unit will need service.

--Bob


----------



## p.las

I have a audio issue. Bitstreaming from oppo 83 to my anthem avm50v, running firmware 3.09h. Every 10min there seams to come a very short audio drop out. It is very short, so i can't be shure how long time i t has being there. Have tryed to upload firmware 3.09j. But the issue is still there. Anybody also have this issue?

Nothing is changes . Same player. Same hdmi wire. Same everything


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40680#post_23305534
> 
> 
> What movie? Total Recall (Sony)?



In all movies. The dropouts in total recall and brave , are much more pronounced. Thise one apears very shortly........less than a half of a second


----------



## dmusoke


What to do?

 

I seem to have a problem when watching movies where 5.1 DD+ sound tracks from movies are played out as 2.1 sound tracks from my D2v. I rented "Silver Linings Playbook" from VUDU and though I thought the sound was 'odd' it didn't hit me until the end of the movie during the credit rolls that I had a 2.1 output instead of the original 5.1. Yes, the movie was that captivating to me that I didn't want to stop it to fix the 'odd' sound problem.

 

Anyways, I have to perform multiple HDMI handshakes to output the original 5.1 format. I'm running FW version 3.09h and have my Oppo 105 output PCM though bit streaming doesn't seem to help the problem either.

 

Any help? I'm running 1080p/60 in_out of the D2v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I just checked with OPPO 105 > native VUDU > "Finding Nemo", HDX Stream, and no problems here getting 5.1 through the D2v to the Center and Surrounds.


What do the Select button displays on the D2v report as audio input format? 5.1 LPCM or 2.0? Which speakers do they show as active for output?


Try Bitstream output from the 105 and see if that gets audio in the Center and Surrounds.


If the actual track being played was 5.1 but you were only getting output as 2.0 or 2.1 it would be immediately obvious because you'd lose all the dialog that's in the Center channel. So it sounds like somehow you were actually playing a 2.0 VUDU track instead of the 5.1 you thought you were playing.


Are you sure you are not using, say, a Music configuration in the D2v that excludes those speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40680#post_23304573
> 
> 
> I have a audio issue. Bitstreaming from oppo 83 to my anthem avm50v, running firmware 3.09h. Every 10min there seams to come a very short audio drop out. It is very short, so i can't be shure how long time i t has being there. Have tryed to upload firmware 3.09j. But the issue is still there. Anybody also have this issue?
> 
> Nothing is changes . Same player. Same hdmi wire. Same everything



Every 10 minutes sounds like you are getting a brief failure in the periodic copy protection check that HDMI runs in the background during playback. Have you added anything to your HDMI signal path? An HDMI switch or a Darbee or some such?

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40680#post_23306926
> 
> 
> ^ I just checked with OPPO 105 > native VUDU > "Finding Nemo", HDX Stream, and no problems here getting 5.1 through the D2v to the Center and Surrounds.
> 
> 
> What do the Select button displays on the D2v report as audio input format? 5.1 LPCM or 2.0? Which speakers do they show as active for output?
> 
> 
> Try Bitstream output from the 105 and see if that gets audio in the Center and Surrounds.
> 
> 
> If the actual track being played was 5.1 but you were only getting output as 2.0 or 2.1 it would be immediately obvious because you'd lose all the dialog that's in the Center channel. So it sounds like somehow you were actually playing a 2.0 VUDU track instead of the 5.1 you thought you were playing.
> 
> 
> Are you sure you are not using, say, a Music configuration in the D2v that excludes those speakers.
> 
> --Bob


 

Bob:

 

The select buttons say 5.1 PCM for the audio input and 2.1 for the audio output(L,R and Sub).  I have set my Bass Manager set to Auto-LFE.

 

Bitstream didn't fix the problem for this particular movie so far. I'll try again tonight...

 

I've had this problem many times, watching HDX movies and just tolerated having to force hdmi handshakes to 'correct' the problem.

 

The problem is also rather random as I can play an HDX 5.1 in/out track with no problems and then at other times, it outputs as a 2.1 track and then have to force it to 5.1 via handshaking.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Sounds like the problem may be Auto-LFE -- assuming your Music configuration is only 2.1.


Try setting Bass Management Movie and see if the problem goes away.


I'm not sure how Anthem has implemented Auto-LFE -- e.g., will it switch to Music even though an LFE channel is present if that LFE channel happens to be silent when checked? Your re-handshaking may simply be redoing the check at a later point when LFE content is actually present in the channel. Or it could simply be a bug in the Auto-LFE test.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40680#post_23306931
> 
> 
> Every 10 minutes sounds like you are getting a brief failure in the periodic copy protection check that HDMI runs in the background during playback. Have you added anything to your HDMI signal path? An HDMI switch or a Darbee or some such?
> 
> --Bob



No - nothing new addet. Just a straigt hdmi cable to my projektor


When using pcm , the issue is gone


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40680#post_23290309
> 
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v3.09j beta
> 
> 2. Fixed AVM 50v issue where noise was present when playing 176.4 kHz source.



Amen to that one!










> Quote:
> v3.09h release candidate:
> 
> 2. False "No Input Signal" status info when receiving 2-channel input - fixed.



Sadly this still happens with 2CH PCM. DTS-mono is fixed though.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Hmm, I thought we had a poster above who confirmed that 2nd one?

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40680#post_23307962
> 
> 
> No - nothing new addet. Just a straigt hdmi cable to my projektor
> 
> 
> When using pcm , the issue is gone



More Info


It seems to bee that it is only affeckting DTS HDMR 5.1 audio. No issue when playing Dolby hd and DTS HDMR 7.1


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Did you really mean to type DTS-HD MR? Or are you playing the more common DTS-HD MA 5.1?


What discs are you playing with DTS-HD MR 5.1?

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler

There is no such thing as DTS HDMR. There is HD MA (Master Audio, lossless) and HD HR (High Resolution, high bitrate lossy).


----------



## p.las

Sorry.


I ment DTS HD MA 5.1 .....


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23319759
> 
> 
> There is no such thing as DTS HDMR. There is HD MA (Master Audio, lossless) and HD HR (High Resolution, high bitrate lossy).



Now that I've given them the idea, they'll probably come up with a cunning new half way format and call it MR ....









--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23319859
> 
> 
> Sorry.
> 
> 
> I ment DTS HD MA 5.1 .....



No problem. So you are hearing this with HDMI Bitstream output from the OPPO 83 for ALL DTS-HD MA 5.1 discs? And the brief dropouts happen at a fairly regular once every 10 minutes?


I presume you are running the latest firmware in the 83 -- from March of last year -- the 0117 firmware, right?


I can check this with my 83, but if the problem is limited to just a few discs, I may not have those discs.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23320173
> 
> 
> No problem. So you are hearing this with HDMI Bitstream output from the OPPO 83 for ALL DTS-HD MA 5.1 discs? And the brief dropouts happen at a fairly regular once every 10 minutes?
> 
> 
> I presume you are running the latest firmware in the 83 -- from March of last year -- the 0117 firmware, right?
> 
> 
> I can check this with my 83, but if the problem is limited to just a few discs, I may not have those discs.
> 
> --Bob



I'm happy to test too via my 83 if you post the discs.


----------



## wingnut4772

  


Latrly I keep getting this message every time I turn on the Anthem or it switches sources. What's up?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ That's not coming from the Anthem. It looks like your display is complaining about the audio input it is receiving. Do you have an HDMI cable going from the Source direct to the display?

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater

Bob is correct. It's an error on the TV. occasionally I have gotten that on my TV and its been an issue at the source. In my case it's been Source-->ANTHEM-->TV as the only path and connectivity. So I have experienced it via a connection only with the Anthem in the middle.


----------



## wingnut4772

Yes! I have an HDMI coming from the Anthem out into a Sharp Elite. I wonder if this is SHARP setting then ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The HDMI output of the Anthem includes stereo LPCM audio -- suitable for use with built-in stereo speakers in a TV. Sounds like the TV is getting confused by the HDMI handshake and thinks something else is coming in that it can't handle.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23319859
> 
> 
> Sorry.
> 
> 
> I ment DTS HD MA 5.1 .....



Using D2v firmware V3.09j, I checked with HDMI Bitstream from the OPPO 83 into HDMI 8 input on the D2v/3D.


Tested with the DTS-HD MA 5.1 track from "Rango", Blu-ray.


I didn't notice any audio dropouts, brief or otherwise.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23320632
> 
> 
> The HDMI output of the Anthem includes stereo LPCM audio -- suitable for use with built-in stereo speakers in a TV. Sounds like the TV is getting confused by the HDMI handshake and thinks something else is coming in that it can't handle.
> 
> --Bob



In my particular case (if I recall correctly) it has been when there has been a pause or audio issue at the source. Specifically what I'll see is the Anthem sending a video signal but there will be no audio registering on the front panel of the anthem. Then ill need to reboot something to get it all working. I'll pay more attention to it the next time it happens. I think I've experienced it with my AppleTV and Oppo BDP-83. I can't recall if I've also experienced it when a mode will change. For example it will go from Dolby digital or PLII to Dolby HD.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The easy fix, presuming you don't actually want to use the TV's speakers, is to set up the TV to take its audio input from a stereo RCA jack pair as when connecting a DVI device to it. Thus it won't try to handshake for the HDMI audio input.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23320173
> 
> 
> No problem. So you are hearing this with HDMI Bitstream output from the OPPO 83 for ALL DTS-HD MA 5.1 discs? And the brief dropouts happen at a fairly regular once every 10 minutes?
> 
> 
> I presume you are running the latest firmware in the 83 -- from March of last year -- the 0117 firmware, right?
> 
> 
> I can check this with my 83, but if the problem is limited to just a few discs, I may not have those discs.
> 
> --Bob



yes - for all DTS HDMA 5.1


a funny thing. I allways have this picture cadance problem. For every 10 minut or so , i looks like the picture jump in cadance. this issue is no longer there. But the audui issue have replaced this picture issue. I will try to check the firmware on my Oppo player


----------



## p.las

the firmware wasent up to date. so i connectet the LAN cable , and updated. I will late you know how thins is. Damn - this Oppo thing is smooth. it hardley took a minute to update


----------



## p.las

The audio issue is still there. It happens so fast that it more Sound like a "glitch" m than a dropouts . I don't know. But i Got a feeling that is has something to dó with the former picture issue.......looks like a frame is out off sync, very shortly


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23321218
> 
> 
> ^ The easy fix, presuming you don't actually want to use the TV's speakers, is to set up the TV to take its audio input from a stereo RCA jack pair as when connecting a DVI device to it. Thus it won't try to handshake for the HDMI audio input.
> 
> --Bob


Thanks ill see if I can figure out the settings on that.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23321218
> 
> 
> ^ The easy fix, presuming you don't actually want to use the TV's speakers, is to set up the TV to take its audio input from a stereo RCA jack pair as when connecting a DVI device to it. Thus it won't try to handshake for the HDMI audio input.
> 
> --Bob



Excellent suggestion as usual Bob!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23321835
> 
> 
> The audio issue is still there. It happens so fast that it more Sound like a "glitch" m than a dropouts . I don't know. But i Got a feeling that is has something to dó with the former picture issue.......looks like a frame is out off sync, very shortly



What is the OPPO 83 sending to the Anthem for video frame rate when this happens: /60, /50, or /24? Is the OPPO sending 1080p or 1080i?


And what is the Anthem sending to your display for output frame rate? Check both the input and output in the Video Source Adjust > Info panel display on the Anthem to confirm what's actually happening.


In addition, I suggest you do a complete reset of the OPPO. Remove any disc in the tray, go into Setup in the OPPO, and:


1) Jot down your OPPO settings.


2) In Device Setup, Erase Persistent Storage


3) In Device Setup, Reset Factory Defaults. When the Easy Setup Wizard finishes, power off the OPPO.


4) Pull the power plug of the OPPO for about 10 seconds. Do not skip this step.


5) Power up and re-enter your personal settings.


6) Power down one more time. Settings are saved during the power down cycle.



The above will eliminate any chance that something screwy is left over from the prior firmware.


Check for the glitch again. If it still happens, check whether or not it is repeatable if you rewind a bit and play through the same scene again. Does the glitch repeat at the same time codes, or does it happen at random time codes but spaced fairly uniformly apart at about once every 10 minutes?


What disc are you using to check this? You still haven't told us.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23323277
> 
> 
> What is the OPPO 83 sending to the Anthem for video frame rate when this happens: /60, /50, or /24? Is the OPPO sending 1080p or 1080i?
> 
> 
> And what is the Anthem sending to your display for output frame rate? Check both the input and output in the Video Source Adjust > Info panel display on the Anthem to confirm what's actually happening.
> 
> 
> In addition, I suggest you do a complete reset of the OPPO. Remove any disc in the tray, go into Setup in the OPPO, and:
> 
> 
> 1) Jot down your OPPO settings.
> 
> 
> 2) In Device Setup, Erase Persistent Storage
> 
> 
> 3) In Device Setup, Reset Factory Defaults. When the Easy Setup Wizard finishes, power off the OPPO.
> 
> 
> 4) Pull the power plug of the OPPO for about 10 seconds. Do not skip this step.
> 
> 
> 5) Power up and re-enter your personal settings.
> 
> 
> 6) Power down one more time. Settings are saved during the power down cycle.
> 
> 
> 
> The above will eliminate any chance that something screwy is left over from the prior firmware.
> 
> 
> Check for the glitch again. If it still happens, check whether or not it is repeatable if you rewind a bit and play through the same scene again. Does the glitch repeat at the same time codes, or does it happen at random time codes but spaced fairly uniformly apart at about once every 10 minutes?
> 
> 
> What disc are you using to check this? You still haven't told us.
> 
> --Bob



Anthem display - in 1920x1080/24 and the same goes for the video output


Video output is set to 1080p in the oppo. 1080p24 is set to on in oppo menu


I have tried you advise , and vill se what happens. It dosent matter what movie it is. Just as long that us s bluray movie with DTS HDMA 5.1 audio.

Thanks for your help Bob 👍


----------



## p.las

I forgot

When there is at glitch, and i return to det samme place, the glitch dosent apear again


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23323992
> 
> 
> I forgot
> 
> When there is at glitch, and i return to det samme place, the glitch dosent apear again


^ p.las


I wonder if you would be willing to change both the OPPO and the Anthem from 1080P/24 to 1080P/60 and see if you still have the problem.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23323943
> 
> 
> Anthem display - in 1920x1080/24 and the same goes for the video output
> 
> 
> Video output is set to 1080p in the oppo. 1080p24 is set to on in oppo menu
> 
> 
> I have tried you advise , and vill se what happens. It dosent matter what movie it is. Just as long that us s bluray movie with DTS HDMA 5.1 audio.


Only US Blu-rays you say? So it's not a 1080i50 European issue?


Another thing, you said nothing had changed in a while, and I have the same system as you with zero glitches. Could it be heat related? Maybe the fan is blocked with dust or something in your cabinet was physically moved? How is the weather in Denmark?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23325245
> 
> 
> Only US Blu-rays you say? So it's not a 1080i50 European issue?
> 
> 
> Another thing, you said nothing had changed in a while, and I have the same system as you with zero glitches. Could it be heat related? Maybe the fan is blocked with dust or something in your cabinet was physically moved? How is the weather in Denmark?



All my bd movies is eu versions........1080/24


The weather in Denmark is rather cold  it is not a heat problem


----------



## AVfile

Ok









I would try Bob's last suggestion.


Do you use "source direct" video mode in the Oppo or explicit 1080p setting?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23325418
> 
> 
> Ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would try Bob's last suggestion.
> 
> 
> Do you use "source direct" video mode in the Oppo or explicit 1080p setting?



i am using 1080p out of the player . not source direct.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23324776
> 
> ^ p.las
> 
> 
> I wonder if you would be willing to change both the OPPO and the Anthem from 1080P/24 to 1080P/60 and see if you still have the problem.





p.las


This is definitely worth a try.


----------



## tngiloy

I had a chance to get a used D2v at a good price and took it. As a prior D2 owner I am familiar with most of the setup, but I do have a couple of questions.


1- I see where you can set a source to 'through'. Does that turn off the video processor??

2- If not, is there a way to turn off the video processor??

3- was the Keyspan adapter included with the D2v from the beginning?? This unit was bought in 2009, and if the Keyspan wasn't included back then, then I need to get one.


Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Through bypasses the video processor -- the video is negotiated between the Source and the Display -- except to the extent the video has to be processed to extract the audio.


Through mode only works if your D2v has the new D2v 3D upgrade, and even then only for HDMI Inputs 1-4 to HDMI output 1. Except for Through mode, there is no way to completely bypass the video processing, although, as with the D2, if the video resolution and format in and out match, and if defaults are used in the Video Source Adjust menu, the video processing is essentially transparent anyway.


Anthem only negotiated their deal to distribute the Keyspan adapter after the D2v started shipping. I forget exactly when. So you may indeed need to get one. Anthem sells them separately, in the unlikely event you are having trouble finding one.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

^

Bob,

Thanks for the quick answer.


This unit has no 3-D board, and I don't foresee needing one. Too bad there isn't a way to turn off the video processor since I really don't need it. I use Oppo hdmi #1 out to my display and will have #2 to D2v set to 'split av' ; toslink for audio on my sat box (hdmi from sat to display) to avoid handshake issues. And analog in for stereo and 6-ch music. In my situation its just wasted electricity to have the video board active. The only video I need from the D2v is for the setup menu. Is it possible that this can be addressed with firmware, or is it a hardware limitation? I don't think I'm the only one who doesn't need the video processing in the D2v (or other Anthem processors). The sigma processor is great if you need it, and many owners may, but many don't.


The owner said he never ran ARC since he had a Mac. It may have the original factory firmware also.

I'll order a Keyspan adapter online. I guess I can always send it back. Better to have two than none.


Tom


----------



## AVfile

Is it possible to bypass the Sat box upconversion? I would send it through the D2v for upconversion. It should do a better job with SDTV.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40740#post_23332744
> 
> 
> ^
> 
> 
> The owner said he never ran ARC since he had a Mac. It may have the original factory firmware also.
> 
> I'll order a Keyspan adapter online. I guess I can always send it back. Better to have two than none.
> 
> 
> Tom



Just picked up a used but looks brand new D2v myself.







If you have the 3D board and the Through option you don't have the original FW.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40740#post_23332801
> 
> 
> Is it possible to bypass the Sat box upconversion? I would send it through the D2v for upconversion. It should do a better job with SDTV.



My Sat box is hooked up by hdmi > plasma. And optical to the Anthem. No video connection to the Anthem. If Dish ever starts sending audio higher than DD 5.1 then I may hook up hdmi thru the D2v. I use the Anthem only to watch movies, the Bronco's and GOT. Most other shows are just thru the Panny plasma and its toy speakers. I don't need to watch the news in surround sound.

When I originally owned my D2 (right after it came out) there were many SDTV channels and I found that it was useful to use the D2's video processing.. Now virtually all the channels I watch, either Sat or OTA, are 1080p. Although Dish's video processor certainly isn't state of the art, the processor in my 50'' Panny plasma is more than sufficient. DVD player's didn't have nearly the video processors for upscaling from 480i/p to 1080i/p back then that the Oppo's and others have now.

If I had a huge screen in a large HT the upconversion would be great and necessary. That's not my case, and I'm guessing many others here, although I can only speak for myself.

I'm getting the D2v for its audio.

I was spoiled by the audio from my D2. I have been using an Integra 80.3 since my D2 died. Its an excellent unit. If I had not had the D2 I would most likely be satisfied with the Integra and a few bucks richer. But having tasted prime grade steak I can't be satisfied with ground beef. Its the disease I've been afflicted with and it seems the D2v is the only cure for me.


Tom


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40740#post_23332930
> 
> 
> Just picked up a used but looks brand new D2v myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have the 3D board and the Through option you don't have the original FW.



Obie_fl,

I know it does _not_ have the 3-D board. I don't know what firmware its running and won't until I get it and hook it up in a week or so. It may not have the through option available in 'set-up'.

Just out of curiosity, what was the original firmware?? anyone remember?

Tom


----------



## obie_fl

Ah sorry I thought you said it had the 3D board.


Reading comprehension isn't wha... Hey look a squirrel!


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40740#post_23333046
> 
> 
> Ah sorry I thought you said it had the 3D board.
> 
> 
> Reading comprehension isn't wha... Hey look a squirrel!



HeHeHe (lol)


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40740#post_23332960
> 
> 
> If I had a huge screen in a large HT the upconversion would be great and necessary. That's not my case, and I'm guessing many others here, although I can only speak for myself.
> 
> I'm getting the D2v for its audio.



I understand, you WANT the D2v out of the loop because you want to manage your sound system and TV's input switching yourself depending on the program you want to watch.

Most people coming here for advice want a more integrated solution, i.e. one button turn-on and one signal path for EVERYTHING so that anyone without knowledge of how the system is hooked up can use it to watch ANYTHING. So that is why we typically recommend ways to set that up optimally, biased towards USING the AVM/D since this is the AVM/D thread, even if it does result in "wasted electricity"


----------



## TKO1

Hi everyone,


quick question --- how does the Anthem AVM 50v or 50v 3D handle multi-channel analog inputs from an SACD/DVD-A player like the Oppo BDP-105? Is there an option to add the needed subwoofer boost of +10dB (large speaker settings in the Oppo) or +15dB (small speaker settings...)? I read the user manual but can't find it in there.


Thanks


Cheers.


Tony


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40740#post_23336483
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> quick question --- how does the Anthem AVM 50v or 50v 3D handle multi-channel analog inputs from an SACD/DVD-A player like the Oppo BDP-105? Is there an option to add the needed subwoofer boost of +10dB (large speaker settings in the Oppo) or +15dB (small speaker settings...)? I read the user manual but can't find it in there.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> Tony



You may want to read this and apply it if it is even needed at all

LFE, subwoofers and interconnects explained


----------



## TKO1

Hi,


I have already read that statement, in particular this part:


> Quote:
> SW analogue output from players
> 
> Okay, what level should the subwoofer output be? If it were just the LFE track, then you'd expect it, as discussed above, to be 10dB lower than the other channels to fit the 10dB higher maximum LFE output.
> 
> 
> But if the player is performing bass management, then the subwoofer output also has to contain redirected bass; this extra signal could push the signal back above its nominal limit. To prevent overloading their output, or the receiver's input, players with bass management conventionally lower the SW output by a further 5dB. (This 5dB value is specified by Dolby, see references). Sometimes this 5dB drop switches in and out depending on whether bass management is being performed (ie if any speakers are set to SMALL).
> 
> 
> The final SW output will typically be:
> 
> SW = LFE
> 
> or:
> 
> SW = Lower5dB(LFE + Lower10dB(Redirected bass)) = Lower5dB(LFE) + Lower15dB(Redirected bass)
> 
> So, in those two cases the SW output from the player will be respectively 10dB or 15dB lower than the other channels. A receiver should offer the ability to specifically boost the SW input on its multichannel analogue interface to compensate.




which is why I posed the question. Cheers.


Tony


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40740#post_23336483
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> quick question --- how does the Anthem AVM 50v or 50v 3D handle multi-channel analog inputs from an SACD/DVD-A player like the Oppo BDP-105? Is there an option to add the needed subwoofer boost of +10dB (large speaker settings in the Oppo) or +15dB (small speaker settings...)? I read the user manual but can't find it in there.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> Tony



If you are using ARC in the AVM 50v, which I would certainly recommend, then you are all set without having to do anything special for SACD playback from the OPPO. This is true whether you use HDMI Audio or 5.1 Analog Audio.


The Anthem AVM 50v (and D2v) do not accept HDMI DSD as a form of digital audio input. The OPPO 105 will discover this as part of the HDMI handshake and will instead send HDMI LPCM 88.2KHZ for SACD playback to the Anthem.


If you want to use DSD-Direct-to-Analog conversion for the Analog outputs of the OPPO 105, then do two things: Set SACD Output DSD and also set HDMI Audio OFF, which will enable the DSD method for Analog even though the Anthem can't accept that over HDMI.


For the multi-channel Analog outputs of the 105, set all speakers LARGE (and Subwoofer ON), equidistant (any distance will do as long as they are all the same -- you might as well leave it at the default 12 feet), and with 0dB volume trim. Set the Down-mix to 5.1. For that input in the AVM 50v, set Room EQ ON (to enable ARC). ARC will then handle the bass management and volume trims, and the AVM 50v will also do the speaker distance adjustments.


Set that way, both the 5.1 Analog and the HDMI LPCM audio need the standard +10dB boost for the LFE channel, and the AVM 50v provides that by default -- so no worries.


These settings also let you switch to DSD for Analog without having to do any other gyrations, because DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion bypasses processing in the OPPO 105, meaning that your speakers will be treated as LARGE, equidistant, etc., just as you set them above. So you can go back and forth between DSD and PCM on the Analog conversion at whim.


If you decide you want to use ANALOG DIRECT for the 5.1 Analog inputs of the AVM 50v (i.e., analog audio pass through), be aware that that means you are bypassing all processing in the AVM 50v -- including ARC. Set THAT way, you will need to do things like bass management and speaker distance adjustment in the OPPO. If you set any speakers to SMALL in the OPPO to do that, then the LFE channel will need the extra +5dB of headroom boost you alluded to. You can do that, for example, by raising the volume knob on your Sub. For your other, Digital audio sources, the ARC Measurement you make after making that manual change on your Sub will take the increased Sub output into account -- i.e., will lower the Sub's volume trim in the ARC solution. So it all works out automagically.

--Bob


----------



## wse

ARC vs Audyssey Multi EQ32 which works best?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Audyssey is particularly bad on the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40740#post_23336483
> 
> 
> quick question --- how does the Anthem AVM 50v or 50v 3D handle multi-channel analog inputs from an SACD/DVD-A player like the Oppo BDP-105? Is there an option to add the needed subwoofer boost of +10dB (large speaker settings in the Oppo) or +15dB (small speaker settings...)? I read the user manual but can't find it in there.


The most reliable way to get the desired result is to start with multichannel via HDMI.


Once that is all sorted, correct bass integration, find a test disc with test noise in each channel. Play it and record the SPL of each channel.


The player should have the same bass management as used in the AV processor -- normally that means all small, subwoofer yes.


Play the disc again and switch to the analog inputs. Set the master volume so the L channel matches the previous reading. Hopefully the other 4 main channels will track closely. If not, take steps to trim them in. Do the same for the LFE channel, assuming there is enough trim range to get there. Might have to play some games with the main speaker gains to do so.


Done.


----------



## AV_mike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40740#post_23337709
> 
> 
> ^ Audyssey is particularly bad on the D2v.
> 
> --Bob



+1 and I don't even own one.


----------



## TKO1

Excellent. Thanks Bob.


Cheers.


Tony


----------



## Whitl

I have an older D2 and would like to know if there is any particular usb to serial adapter that can be used for windows 7 in order to use arc and updates to the receiver or are they all pretty much the same and any adapter will work.


Thanks

Lee


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adaptor sold by Tripplite is the one to use. Anthem sells it, and it's also on Amazon. Check the Tripplite site to be sure you have the latest driver for your particular flavor of Windows 7.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Do I indeed attempt to correct Bob? Here goes.

The AVM-50/D2v will NOT set distances.

TJG


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I said ARC will provide certain processing and the Anthem will handle distances (so they don't need to be set in the OPPO). I didn't say the Anthem or ARC will SET distances. Distance settings in the Anthem are, indeed, set manually. But with them set you don't ALSO need them in the OPPO unless you are using ANALOG-DIRECT in the Anthem and thus bypassing processing in the Anthem.

--Bob


----------



## TJG55

B

Sorry if I misunderstood. How will "the AVM 50v will also do the speaker distance adjustments "?

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Sure, it DOES them. It just doesn't SET them.









--Bob


----------



## Audiolic

Hi Everyone


Recently upgraded my sub and ran ARC.

 
 
 


Would appreciate any feedback / comments


----------



## AVfile

Very nice, you're getting the full LFE range. Just try the FLAT sub HPF under Advanced.


Your room appears to have a great natural response. I bet it sounds good even without ARC, you might find it warmer.


----------



## Audiolic

Will try FLAT sub HPF this evening.


Yes it does sound great, but despite following Bob's sub config suggestions at the start of this thread and setting the Sub level to 75 dB SPL prior to running ARC, the bass still seems to be over powering the rest of the system when playing music.


The Paradigm Sub 1 bass is however very nice.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Make sure you are playing well authored music. There's an awful lot of popular music out there with ridiculous amounts of bass thrown into the mix. Either the studio decided to add bass to conceal how bad the rest of the performance was, or they decided to add bass thinking most listeners will have insufficient bass output in their system. With ARC and the new Sub you may simply be hearing poorly mixed music for what it really is for the first time.


You can double check that the ARC solution is working using, for example, the LPCM test tracks from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray and an SPL meter to check speaker/sub levels.


You can also lower Room Gain in the ARC Targets, then re-Calculate and re-Upload (no need to re-Measure) to reduce bass.

--Bob


----------



## Audiolic

Bob,

Great feedback, thank you.


Is the FLAT sub HPF setting in ARC Advanced settings then still necessary ( as suggested by AVfile) and what difference is it likely to make ?


Thanks again for all the feedback


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40740#post_23349615
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Great feedback, thank you.
> 
> 
> Is the FLAT sub HPF setting in ARC Advanced settings then still necessary ( as suggested by AVfile) and what difference is it likely to make ?
> 
> 
> Thanks again for all the feedback



ARC imposes a roll-off of Sub output below 30Hz regardless of how the Sub measures down there. Of course if the Sub has poor output at these very low frequencies then the Sub's own output roll off may be even greater. The idea is to protect the Sub from bottoming out (moving the cone too far) at these very low frequencies, just in case the Sub doesn't have its own built-in protection against that.


Your Sub Measures very well at these low frequencies and so it is a good candidate for turning that off -- which is what FLAT does. The proviso would be you should only do that if you know your Sub has its own built-in protection down there. Most better quality Subs WILL have that. Typically if the Sub measures well down there, then it likely also has its own protection from going TOO low in frequency. In any event, your Paradigm Sub is one people are familiar with here and it is self-protected.


So, set FLAT and you will see the slight roll off in the Green Calculated curve below 30Hz go away on your Sub chart. In essence ARC will send those lowest frequencies to the Sub.


Bass down that low is the stuff you feel more than hear. There's lots of fun bass in good content in that octave from 30 to 15Hz, and FLAT lets more of that reach the Sub.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke


Why would ARC still set such a high room gain for a room / speaker response as good as Audiolic's?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40740#post_23349200
> 
> 
> Will try FLAT sub HPF this evening.
> 
> 
> Yes it does sound great, but despite following Bob's sub config suggestions at the start of this thread and setting the Sub level to 75 dB SPL prior to running ARC, the bass still seems to be over powering the rest of the system when playing music.
> 
> 
> The Paradigm Sub 1 bass is however very nice.



Did you use the Perfect Bass setup for your Sub 1 prior to ARC ?


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40710#post_23323943
> 
> 
> Anthem display - in 1920x1080/24 and the same goes for the video output
> 
> 
> Video output is set to 1080p in the oppo. 1080p24 is set to on in oppo menu
> 
> 
> I have tried you advise , and vill se what happens. It dosent matter what movie it is. Just as long that us s bluray movie with DTS HDMA 5.1 audio.
> 
> Thanks for your help Bob 👍



i have now tryed all you advices. But the issue is still there. It is only a DTS HDMA 5.1 issue......not 7.1. And it is only when the player output bitstream. So it must be a decoding issue in some regards. I have also tryed to upload the firmware again. And also the ARC solution.

I will try to contact tech support


----------



## Audiolic

Yes, I did


----------



## Audiolic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40770#post_23350178
> 
> 
> Did you use the Perfect Bass setup for your Sub 1 prior to ARC ?


----------



## Audiolic

Did in deed.


----------



## Audiolic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40770#post_23350129
> 
> 
> Why would ARC still set such a high room gain for a room / speaker response as good as Audiolic's?


Yes good question and what would a good or typical room gain setting be ?


----------



## TJG55

A

Have run ARC many, many times in many different rooms. Typical room gain is 3.9xxx on about 95% of runs, but have seen as low as 1.2xxx. On my own room I got 1.4xxx and thought it might be low so I raised it. After a brief listening session, reloaded original.Room itself is not large but very open to other parts of house. Charts showed essentially duplicate of JayRay's. (Using Paradigm Sub-15)

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ ARC attempts to detect and preserve the inherent Room Gain in the room, but the Measurements might present confusing data so ARC has built in limits. A wide dip in room response near the Crossovers will look like NEGATIVE Room Gain -- which has no useful, physical meaning. So ARC won't assign a Room Gain below 0.


Similarly, and perhaps more common, a dip above the Crossovers region with some "boomy" speaker response at and below the Crossovers will look like large Room Gain. Since real Room Gain for normal sized rooms tends to be in the range 2 to 4dB, ARC limits itself to no more than 4dB for the automatic assignment (which turns into a number just less than 4 for technical reasons). YOU can assign a number higher than 4dB, but ARC won't do so automatically.


Large rooms and rooms with substantial "bass treatments" will have smaller Room Gain.


You can tweak the Room Gain target up or down yourself if you feel the need.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

My MRX friend with the weak LFE/bass problem ended up raising the Room Gain to 7. I convinced him this was better than mucking with the SUB level and breaking ARC. He is happier now but still not satisfied. I think he needs another sub or something. He built a very solid room, maybe too solid.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40770#post_23353318
> 
> 
> My MRX friend with the weak LFE/bass problem ended up *raising the Room Gain to 7*. I convinced him this was better than mucking with the SUB level and breaking ARC. He is happier now but still not satisfied. I think he needs another sub or something. He built a very solid room, maybe too solid.










!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40770#post_23353318
> 
> 
> My MRX friend with the weak LFE/bass problem ended up raising the Room Gain to 7. I convinced him this was better than mucking with the SUB level and breaking ARC. He is happier now but still not satisfied. I think he needs another sub or something. He built a very solid room, maybe too solid.



Either his sub is just too small for the room, or there is something else going on in terms of basic setup error, such as Sub out of Phase with Mains.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350

Here's a little tidbit on the muting issue. I'm currently running fw3.09 in my D2v and usually use Dolby Volume for DTV etc. now and then if I pause for a while or switch inputs the audio will mute.

I had been watching a movie so had Dolby Volume off, later while watching a tv show I realized DV was off so I switched it on on the fly...........boom muted! Switched DV off and the sound came back, switch DV on again and it's muted again.


Seems this particular muting issue is linked with Dolby Volume. Oh and when it mutes it affects both 'ON' and 'Cinema Reference'. When it's muted, switching sources and audio input formats doesn't unmute it. Power cycling the D2v unmutes it.


Cheers


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40770#post_23353639
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !



I know it seems crazy, but I should clarify that his ARC charts showed that the bass hump was actually smaller than what was indicated by the room gain value in the Targets window. Even though it said the gain was 3.94 the hump in the charts was more like 2.5 dB. So with a setting of 7.0 it was probably close to 4.0 in reality. I suspect there is a small bass anomaly in the measurements that is throwing off the algorithm.


----------



## TKO1

For the AVM 50V/50V 3D owners:


Hi everyone,


I am currently contemplating purchasing an Anthem AVM 50V 3D and have a question for you owners concerning digital signals into the 50V (i.e. standard Redbook CDs or AppleTV digital output). I am a big fan of the Anthem Room Correction software and was a previous owner of an Anthem MRX 500. Although ARC was excellent I was occasionally experiencing small audio pops between songs on some CDs and digital inputs into the MRX 500 and ended up selling it because of this issue. I replaced it with a Denon AVR4311CI, with Audyssey XT32, but have not had any success with that room correction system like others have experienced and ended up turning Audyssey off completely and am now using two Paradigm Reference Seismic 110 subwoofers with the Paradigm Perfect Bass Kit to smooth out the frequencies below my 80Hz crossover (Revel speakers).


I would love to go back to Anthem as I really like their products and their excellent customer/technical support but before I fork out that kind of money I was wondering if the DSP processing on the AVM 50V exhibits similar type issues with audio dropouts on some CDs. I have used various CD players (Oppo BDP-83, Oppo BDP-95, Sony PS3 slim) and all had the same problem with the digital input. When played via the analog outputs on the Oppos the songs were fine. There were also no issues when ripped in iTunes etc.


H/W some of the CDs where I experienced the small audio pop between songs:


- The Best of Howard Jones

- The Very Best of Diana Krall

- Miles Davis - Kind of Blue (K2HD mastering)

- Madonna: The Immaculate Collection

- David Bowie: The Singles 1969 to 1993

- Elton John Greatest Hits 1970-2003

- Alan Parsons Project - Definitive Collection

- The Pretenders - The Singles, Greatest Hits

- The Police - Every Breath You Take The Classics

- The John Lennon Collection


If anyone out there with an AVM 50V could test any of these CDs and let me know I would be most appreciative. Or if you are experiencing it on other CDs.


Thanks in advance.


Cheers.


Tony


----------



## AVfile

Tony,

I have a 50v 3D and BDP-83. No dropouts on any of the SACDs that I've tried. Will try a couple of CDs from your list and report back, but I think it's very unlikely there will be a problem.

Stefan


----------



## AVfile

There is currently an HDMI handshake issue with the 50v 3D when selecting a source with Video Output set to THROUGH *and* the display is OFF. While playing the "Very Best of Diana Krall" for Tony on the Oppo, the audio plays but I get 3 brief dropouts within 10 seconds of selecting the input.


While playing the same CD on the Sony BDPs770 and switching input to it, there is a longer delay but no dropouts. If I power-on the 50v to one of these THROUGH sources there is no audio at all, until I turn on the display!


If the display is ON or the Video Output is not THROUGH there is no problem.


I mentioned this to Nick @ Anthem here before and he acknowledged that these scenarios would need to be catered to in their software. I forgot to follow up with Tech Support but I will now.


----------



## steven2583

Does anyone know where I can download a older version of the firmware for the D2v? I usually delete the old firmware file after they get a few versions old but I need to test out an issue that I'm having which I know didn't exist back around October 2011


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40770#post_23356564
> 
> 
> There is currently an HDMI handshake issue with the 50v 3D when selecting a source with Video Output set to THROUGH *and* the display is OFF. While playing the "Very Best of Diana Krall" for Tony on the Oppo, the audio plays but I get 3 brief dropouts within 10 seconds of selecting the input.
> 
> 
> While playing the same CD on the Sony BDPs770 and switching input to it, there is a longer delay but no dropouts. If I power-on the 50v to one of these THROUGH sources there is no audio at all, until I turn on the display!
> 
> 
> If the display is ON or the Video Output is not THROUGH there is no problem.
> 
> 
> I mentioned this to Nick @ Anthem here before and he acknowledged that these scenarios would need to be catered to in their software. I forgot to follow up with Tech Support but I will now.



Thanks Stefan,


appreciate the kind offer to try and replicate the issue and the feedback.


It is most appreciated. Cheers.


Tony


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40770#post_23355897
> 
> 
> I would love to go back to Anthem as I really like their products and their excellent customer/technical support but before I fork out that kind of money I was wondering if the DSP processing on the AVM 50V exhibits similar type issues with audio dropouts on some CDs. I have used various CD players (Oppo BDP-83, Oppo BDP-95, Sony PS3 slim) and all had the same problem with the digital input. When played via the analog outputs on the Oppos the songs were fine. There were also no issues when ripped in iTunes etc.
> 
> 
> H/W some of the CDs where I experienced the small audio pop between songs:
> 
> 
> - The Best of Howard Jones
> 
> - The Very Best of Diana Krall
> 
> - Miles Davis - Kind of Blue (K2HD mastering)
> 
> - Madonna: The Immaculate Collection
> 
> - David Bowie: The Singles 1969 to 1993
> 
> - Elton John Greatest Hits 1970-2003
> 
> - Alan Parsons Project - Definitive Collection
> 
> - The Pretenders - The Singles, Greatest Hits
> 
> - The Police - Every Breath You Take The Classics
> 
> - The John Lennon Collection


Here's a shot in the dark.


I notice every one of these discs is a collection. In my previous Tag McLaren processor, I had a collection disc that caused glitches in the sound. I finally determined that some of those songs were originally released as HDCD. But when they were remastered into the collection, some small change in gain or EQ corrupted the HDCD data, so the decoder would snap in and out as the music played, making the click.


The solution was to defeat HDCD. There's a setting for this in the Oppo. Not sure about the Anthem processors.


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40770#post_23358380
> 
> 
> Here's a shot in the dark.
> 
> 
> I notice every one of these discs is a collection. In my previous Tag McLaren processor, I had a collection disc that caused glitches in the sound. I finally determined that some of those songs were originally released as HDCD. But when they were remastered into the collection, some small change in gain or EQ corrupted the HDCD data, so the decoder would snap in and out as the music played, making the click.
> 
> 
> The solution was to defeat HDCD. There's a setting for this in the Oppo. Not sure about the Anthem processors.



Hi Roger,


I tried this with the Oppo and it made no difference. I also thought the issue was related to the number of songs on the CDs as these were >12 songs etc. From my computer science background it seemed like the DSP would lose track of the signal when the audio faded below a certain threshold and then when it locked onto the bit rate/stream again it would cause this little audible pop. I worked very closely with Anthem trying to isolate it with settings etc. but without success. That's why I am asking about the AVM 50v 3D as I don't want to purchase it to find it exhibits a similar characteristic, especially for its selling price.


Cheers.


Tony


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steven2583*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40770#post_23357298
> 
> 
> Does anyone know where I can download a older version of the firmware for the D2v? I usually delete the old firmware file after they get a few versions old but I need to test out an issue that I'm having which I know didn't exist back around October 2011



Email Anthem Tech Support, letting them know the issue you are seeing and the firmware you are using now. They can make older versions available for just such test purposes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40770#post_23358526
> 
> 
> I tried this with the Oppo and it made no difference. I also thought the issue was related to the number of songs on the CDs as these were >12 songs etc. From my computer science background it seemed like the DSP would lose track of the signal when the audio faded below a certain threshold and then when it locked onto the bit rate/stream again it would cause this little audible pop. I worked very closely with Anthem trying to isolate it with settings etc. but without success. That's why I am asking about the AVM 50v 3D as I don't want to purchase it to find it exhibits a similar characteristic, especially for its selling price.
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> Tony



Which OPPO are you using, and have you checked on OPPO's Support page to make sure you have the latest firmware installed?


I don't know if the MRX units do HDCD decoding, but if so, to do this check you HAVE TO turn off HDCD Decoding *BOTH* in the OPPO and in the AVR. (The AVM 50v does not do HDCD decoding.) Another thing to check is to hook up a Stereo Analog Audio RCA cable pair and see if the problem happens via Analog connections or only via HDMI.


You should also set HDMI Audio in the OPPO to LPCM or Bitstream -- not AUTO.

--Bob


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40770#post_23358575
> 
> 
> Which OPPO are you using, and have you checked on OPPO's Support page to make sure you have the latest firmware installed?
> 
> 
> I don't know if the MRX units do HDCD decoding, but if so, to do this check you HAVE TO turn off HDCD Decoding *BOTH* in the OPPO and in the AVR. (The AVM 50v does not do HDCD decoding.) Another thing to check is to hook up a Stereo Analog Audio RCA cable pair and see if the problem happens via Analog connections or only via HDMI.
> 
> 
> You should also set HDMI Audio in the OPPO to LPCM or Bitstream -- not AUTO.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


I tried everything with respect to trouble shooting the MRX. It was with both the 83 and the 95 models. With analog it worked perfectly with no issues (2-channel only as the MRX doesn't have multi-channel inputs).


I really like Anthem and am trying to decide whether to buy the AVM 50V 3D. My local dealer doesn't have any in stock so I can't get one to take it home and try it out. I need to buy it from them, they order it, then it gets delivered to them and if there are any issues I work with them to get it back to Anthem etc. I went through 3 different MRX-500s and I don't want to try it with something close to $6K if it has similar issues. That tells you how much I liked the Anthem ARC software system ;-)


Cheers.


----------



## AVfile

I had a quick chat with my dealer and he seemed to have more confidence in the Pre/Pros than the MRX. It seems as though the software is done by a third party in the latter, making it more difficult to get bug fixes sorted out. I have had good luck so far working directly with Anthem on the bugs I've encountered. All have been resolved without having to send the unit in or even involve my dealer.


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40770#post_23359811
> 
> 
> I had a quick chat with my dealer and he seemed to have more confidence in the Pre/Pros than the MRX. It seems as though the software is done by a third party in the latter, making it more difficult to get bug fixes sorted out. I have had good luck so far working directly with Anthem on the bugs I've encountered. All have been resolved without having to send the unit in or even involve my dealer.



Thanks again. And that is the general consensus I have heard as well.


Don't get me wrong... the MRX line is excellent and if they could have fixed that issue I wouldn't have had any issues in keeping it for years. It's too bad that the DSP algorithms wouldn't be under their control as that should have been something that would be trivial to solve as everyone else seems to have it down pat. I often wonder if the popping sound between songs on a Redbook CD wasn't something that Sound & Vision picked up during their review of the MRX 700 :


> Quote:
> The Anthem MRX 700 evidenced a couple of head-scratchers on the test bench, but its performance was otherwise exemplary. Frequency response from all digital sources save one was essentially perfect, and distortion was consistently very low. Power delivery was generous: The MRX 700 very nearly doubled output into 4-ohm loads (in stereo mode), which is rare for a receiver, and also delivered a very healthy 94 watts with five channels driven simultaneously, which is far above average.
> 
> 
> The oddities encompassed our unique tests of digital-to-analog linearity and “noise modulation,” which examine D/A behavior at exceedingly low signal levels, and an oddity of 96-kHz/24-bit playback. Taking the latter first: On a stereo 96/24 frequency-response sweep, the Anthem’s output remained perfectly flat to roughly 5 kHz, beyond which point it rolled off at about 2 dB per octave, reaching -6 dB at 32 kHz, where output essentially disappeared. I’m completely at a loss to explain this anomaly. Returning to the low-level stuff, the MRX’s D/A linearity showed virtually perfect response to signal levels as low as -80 dB (re: 0 dB full-scale), but was 6 dB negative (too small) at -90 and unlockable at -100, which suggests a least-significant-bit flaw, or a math error at some point in the conversion or resampling processes. S/N on both PCM and Dolby Digital signals also measured about a decibel “too quiet,” which tends to support this idea. On the same track, our “noise mod” test, which requires the converters to track a midfrequency tone that repeatedly sweeps amplitude between “very low” and “very, very, very low” signal levels, failed to execute fully since the receiver would not resolve the 251-Hz tone over its full level sweep, which extends well below -100 dBFS. Noise mod results above that point looked fairly good, though obviously incomplete. — DK



Cheers.


Tony


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40770#post_23358575
> 
> 
> Which OPPO are you using, and have you checked on OPPO's Support page to make sure you have the latest firmware installed?
> 
> 
> I don't know if the MRX units do HDCD decoding, but if so, to do this check you HAVE TO turn off HDCD Decoding *BOTH* in the OPPO and in the AVR. (The AVM 50v does not do HDCD decoding.) Another thing to check is to hook up a Stereo Analog Audio RCA cable pair and see if the problem happens via Analog connections or only via HDMI.
> 
> 
> You should also set HDMI Audio in the OPPO to LPCM or Bitstream -- not AUTO.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


FWIW I now have the Oppo BDP-105 which currently plays all those CDs/songs without any issues feeding either analog or HDMI into a Denon AVR4311-CI receiver.


Cheers.


Tony


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Do you still have the MRX. Does the same problem happen playing the 105 into the MRX?

--Bob


----------



## bohai

Have a D2V and just bought a new Music Hall MMF5.1 turntable with a moving magnet cartridge. Looking for suggestions for hookup to D2V as there is no phono input jacks. I was thinking aux input jacks, but any feedback as to setup parameters would be appreciated.


Thanks all,


Tim


----------



## bohai

Have a D2V and just bought a new Music Hall MMF5.1 turntable with a moving magnet cartridge. Looking for suggestions for hookup to D2V as there is no phono input jacks. I was thinking aux input jacks, but any feedback as to setup parameters would be appreciated.


Thanks all,


Tim


----------



## bohai

Have a D2V and just bought a new Music Hall MMF5.1 turntable with a moving magnet cartridge. Looking for suggestions for hookup to D2V as there is no phono input jacks. I was thinking aux input jacks, but any feedback as to setup parameters would be appreciated.


Thanks all,


Tim


----------



## AVfile

You need something like the "Cambridge Audio phone pre-amp" in your sig, then you can use AUX or any other stereo RCA input.


----------



## bohai

Have one. I am getting some volume thru Zone 2 but none thru MAIN.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800#post_23361962
> 
> 
> Have one. I am getting some volume thru Zone 2 but none thru MAIN.



You can use any of the Stereo audio input pairs, but, as stated, you'll need a phono pre-amp between the turntable and the D2v.


If you are hearing audio through Zone 2 but not on the Main speaker outputs then there is likely a simple error in your Setup settings. You just need to go through them carefully checking. For example, if you are using Triggers to turn on your power amps you may have failed to include the new Source definition (for the turntable input) in the list of choices that activate the Trigger.


It's also possible that you've not powered up the Main path in the D2v.


For the Main path, select a Source that's working and compare what you've got against the new Source definition you set up for the turntable input.

--Bob


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40770#post_23361425
> 
> 
> ^ Do you still have the MRX. Does the same problem happen playing the 105 into the MRX?
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


No. I sold it.


Cheers.


Tony


----------



## wingnut4772

Here's a silly thing that just started. Lately , when I hit the mute button on the Harmony, the volume won't go completely silent. I can still hear the audio slightly. The TV volume is of. It is going through the system.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800#post_23373933
> 
> 
> Here's a silly thing that just started. Lately , when I hit the mute button on the Harmony, the volume won't go completely silent. I can still hear the audio slightly. The TV volume is of. It is going through the system.



Check your setup in your D2v. the mute can be programmed to go silent or down a range of DB's. I have mine set to go down 25db not silent.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800_100#post_23373933
> 
> 
> Here's a silly thing that just started. Lately , when I hit the mute button on the Harmony, the volume won't go completely silent. I can still hear the audio slightly. The TV volume is of. It is going through the system.


*CORRECT - as Shrike645* Said


Mute is NOT Zero but a Number. Somehow your MUTE number changed


----------



## wingnut4772

That was it! Thanks!


----------



## AVfile

It is a good feature, the partial mute.


But I wish we could adjust the volume from the muted state without it un-muting first!


----------



## bigdaddy999

Hi. I have a D2 that I've been struggling with some HDMI-related issues. It's hooked up to a Verizon DVR (newer version) and connected using Monoprice Redmere cables. Verizon output is supposed to be 1920/1080i/60. There's something odd happening on power-up as described below. Maybe someone can shed some light here.


In the first image, you can see the video is not centered or full screen. The D2's video output is smaller than the full TV screen, and offset to the lower right corner (black bars above and on left side). Plus, the video signal input is an odd combination which doesn't seem possible from the Verizon box? The D2 thinks it's seeing:

2048/1115i/60, as reported on the screen

 


Closer shot of the D2 information screen
 


Switching sources or going into setup pops it back to the right size image (and settings). There's no options to modify output of the cable box. Other sources thru the D2 work fine and come out looking normal. Once the image is full size, it doesn't shift sizes.


Any idea what's happening here?


Thanks


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800_100#post_23382748
> 
> 
> Hi. I have a D2 that I've been struggling with some HDMI-related issues. It's hooked up to a Verizon DVR (newer version) and connected using Monoprice Redmere cables. Verizon output is supposed to be 1920/1080i/60. There's something odd happening on power-up as described below. Maybe someone can shed some light here.
> 
> 
> In the first image, you can see the video is not centered or full screen. The D2's video output is smaller than the full TV screen, and offset to the lower right corner (black bars above and on left side). Plus, the video signal input is an odd combination which doesn't seem possible from the Verizon box? The D2 thinks it's seeing:
> 
> 2048/1115i/60, as reported on the screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Closer shot of the D2 information screen
> 
> 
> 
> Switching sources or going into setup pops it back to the right size image (and settings). There's no options to modify output of the cable box. Other sources thru the D2 work fine and come out looking normal. Once the image is full size, it doesn't shift sizes.
> 
> 
> Any idea what's happening here?
> 
> 
> Thanks



LOOK at the INPUT SIGNAL TYPE -- That is WRONG


----------



## bigdaddy999

Yes - I realize it's wrong. But I'm not sure where it's coming from or how it would be "seeing" that signal. Ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Is this only happening when you power things up? If so, this is likely a bug in the Verizon box not handling the HDMI handshake correctly when it initiates it WHILE your display is still powering up. It is getting confused as to what it's allowed to send to the Anthem likely because your Display is responding in a confused fashion because it is not quite awake yet. The Verizon SHOULD realize a retry is needed, but apparently it is not doing so.


Try this: Power up the display, wait until it is fully powered up, THEN power up the Anthem -- if the Anthem does not already have the Verizon selected for input, wait until the Anthem is fully powered up then select the Verizon for input.


If that works, you can build in delays in a programmable remote to automate this.


Also check the forum here for your Verizon box to see if others are having problems with its HDMI handshake when they power up their system.

--Bob


----------



## bohai

Hi guys, D2V here. Yesterday my video to tv was working fine. Today, I am getting audio but for video the screen is nothing but a magenta color. I have tried other sources and they send video to tv just fine. So its not the output from the D2V to the TV. For several weeks there has been some strange video discoloration periodically. So now I will change out DVR cables to see if that helps, and then will try a different HDMI input. I assume I have to change the video input to accommodate HDMI 2 as well as the audio? Is that correct?


Has anyone else had this problem?


----------



## bohai

Got it working. Thanks all.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800#post_23383360
> 
> 
> Got it working. Thanks all.


So what was the issue, how did you solve it?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bohai*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800_100#post_23383360
> 
> 
> Got it working. Thanks all.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800_100#post_23384392
> 
> 
> So what was the issue, how did you solve it?



Or said in reverse - *How did you Create the Situation?*


----------



## Thxtheater

Just to give you all an update on the progress of the beta and customizations: the forthcoming update to Roomie Remote (v1.9) for iOS will have full serial support for the D2v and 50v (as well as previous Dxx and AVMxx models). There will also be multi zone support for all three zones with full feedback for volume, input, current audio, etc. If any of you have been looking for IP-style control with feedback of the D2 or AVM50v via WiFi, you'll be able to do it with the new release of Roomie Remote.


I've also coded in several tuner-related commands but feedback for the tuner (what station the Anthem is currently tuned to) did not make it into this release. I'm hoping we'll be able to get that going for the next point release.


----------



## shah993

WOW!!! that is really great finally I will get the feed back like I do for Onkyo!! the slider control for the volume is really neat.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800#post_23387537
> 
> 
> WOW!!! that is really great finally I will get the feed back like I do for Onkyo!! the slider control for the volume is really neat.



It's great finally having that functionality. So get your iTach flex serial connection from now so that you'll be ready 


I'd appreciate any feedback to confirm that there are no bugs with the settings file once it's finally released. I'll post again here once the new version is out, but figure that we should be somewhere around 2-4 weeks for the new version to be uploaded and then clear.


----------



## Murat

Hi,


I've just found out my D2V just died today







It was just working fine about a week ago. But today after I turned everything on as usual, I was not getting any sound and picture. After half an hour of checking out the system I'm sure there is something wrong with Anthems HDMI card. Every source is connected with HDMI for sound and picture and the output to the projector is also with HDMI. I'm not getting any kind of signal either to the amps or to the projector. I've tried to turn it on and off several times, but no luck


Is there anything else I could try before I take to the dealer?


Thank You


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Murat*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800#post_23395197
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I've just found out my D2V just died today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was just working fine about a week ago. But today after I turned everything on as usual, I was not getting any sound and picture. After half an hour of checking out the system I'm sure there is something wrong with Anthems HDMI card. Every source is connected with HDMI for sound and picture and the output to the projector is also with HDMI. I'm not getting any kind of signal either to the amps or to the projector. I've tried to turn it on and off several times, but no luck
> 
> 
> Is there anything else I could try before I take to the dealer?
> 
> 
> Thank You



If you can power up and view the Front Panel Display there are some things you can try. When navigating the Setup menu using the Front Panel Display, you may find it useful to refer to the menu pictures in the Manual so you don't feel so lost.


First go into Setup > Save & Restore Settings and Save User Settings. (Just in case you can get things working again, this will make it easier to recover your settings.)


Next, exit Setup and select the FM/AM tuner Source in the D2v and see if you get audio -- even the hiss between FM stations would be enough. This is an Analog audio source and would demonstrate that the audio portions of the D2v are working even if you still can't get a picture.


Next, try bringing up the D2v's Setup menu on your Projector. This is an internally generated S-Video source and if you get video that means the output side of the HDMI is working so your problem is on the input side. If you DON'T get video, then you may have accidentally changed your Video Output Configuration to something your Projector can't handle.


Both of those steps are to collect more information on what is actually broken. Now to try fixing it:


Go back into Setup > Save & Restore Settings and Reload Factory Defaults. If the problem is that you accidentally screwed up your settings this may get you going again. Depending on what your Projector can accept, and the details of your speaker configuration, you may need to make a few changes in Setup > Video Setup or in Setup > Speaker Configuration to get things live, but keep those to a minimum as right now you are trying to see whether the DEFAULT settings fix things.


If still no video (even after you check Setup > Video Setup), be sure to check that the HDMI cable to the projector has not come loose. The plugs are only friction fit and even a small shift of plug in socket is enough to screw things up. Check BOTH ENDS of the HDMI to the Projector. Also double check that the Projector itself is set to select its correct HDMI Input. It is very common for folks to lose video simply because they accidentally changed the active input selection in the Display or knocked the cable loose at either end.


Also check the AM/FM tuner to see if you now have audio. I.e., check internally generated audio and internally generated video before trying to get any of your Sources working. If you CAN'T get internally generated audio and video to work then there's no point fiddling further with the Sources. We'll need to take more drastic steps.


If you CAN get the internally generated audio and video to work then we can move on to any one of your Source devices connected via HDMI.


Note that the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold "7" button) is also a source of internally generated HD video, so you can try it as well as the Setup menu to see if your Projector lights up.


If no luck with the internal audio/video, then the only other step you can try prior to taking the D2v in for service is a re-install of the firmware. If the firmware re-install doesn't get you going again then the D2v will need service.


If you CAN get the internal audio/video to work, then pick a Source and go into Setup to re-enter just enough of its Setup > Source Setup definition to see if you can get audio/video from it.


Play SIMPLE stuff, like a CD for testing.


Again, remember to check the HDMI cable between the Source and the D2v at both ends.


The upper and lower rows of HDMI Inputs on the D2v use different hardware, so be sure to check a connection to both. If for example only the upper row of inputs is failing your problem could simply be that the small board that serves those inputs has become disconnected from the main board -- which could be an easy fix (reseat the board).

--Bob


----------



## myc52002

I need to reach out for some input on this issue. I have a "sparklies" problem and random "stuttering" of the video that my searches are not turning up anything that mimics my symptoms. Back story is I have the D2V, BDP 93 and Runco RS1100 projector and a 30' Key DIgital high speed HDMI cable. I have the 93 outputting 1080P, YBC 4:4:4 setting, 1080p/24 auto and deep color 36 bits. Everything had been working perfectly for about 6 months until a few months ago. Coincidentally the issue I am about to describe seemed to show up right after I updated the D2V firmware to the latest non-beta version but can't defintively say it was exactly after that update so not sure if it may be the source of the problem.


For the last 5 months the sparklies would start when I turn on the 93 and the video output connects (no sparklies initially with the Oppo logo on screen) just when the output goes active and would randomly show the sparklies through the previews. They would be there on one preveiw and dissapear on the next but ALWAYS once the movie menu came up the sparklies would go away. No issue at any point through the movie - ever.


Now the sparklies would not go away tonight. I changed HDMI cables from the player to the D2v, used different inputs on the D2V (actually was much worse on HDMI 3 and less so on 1 than 2 which is my normal connection) to no effect. If I connect to HDMI 5 the problem goes away. Hmmm. I connected the 93 directly to the projector and the problem goes away so it appears the be an issue in the D2V. I did reseat all the connections on all the cables, reloaded the lastest firmware in the player and D2V, reset the units etc etc with no difference. Finally I found that if I reduced the res output to anything below 1080P the problem disappeared. Then I finally found what I can duplicate and that is if I set deep color to anything other than 36 bits they would dissappear even with the res back at 1080P.


The other symptom is the video jerking as I can best describe it. The video would start getting jerky looking (much like a 1080P/60 signal looks at 1080P/24) about every 10-15 minutes that I could only resolve by pausing for a second and then play again. Audio has been zero issue. This started with the sparkle issues as well but again tonight was happening far more often than previously.


I know it sounds like the classic cable issue but it works fine direclty connected and through HDMI 5 so I am trying to see if anyone has some thoughts or experienced this issue. Makes no sense that it has gotten progressively worse. No other source exhibits these issues at all. I do wonder if the Anthem update may be part of this as well as I know it did not appear until after I did that in December but I cant say for sure how soon after it showed up.


----------



## AVfile

Cable issues pop up with different equipment and at any time, so that doesn't mean anything. Just curious, did Oppo recommend you run 36-bit deep color? We normally recommend to turn it off. Also is the D2v video output config setup the same way or does it have the bypass mode?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes, that is a the classic description of a cabling issue. Basically you are not getting enough bandwidth through to the display so you are seeing data dropouts.


Presumably the reason it doesn't happen during the feature film is that you are switching to 1080p/24 which is lower bandwidth than 1080p/60.


I suspect the problem is that as part of the firmware update, you left the D2v in its new, default AUTO setting for Data Out, which means the D2v is likely sending 36-bit per pixel (12 bits per component) video data to your projector whereas you may only have been sending 24 bits per pixel with the prior firmware.


Keep in mind that you've got two data runs here -- one from the player to the D2v and one from the D2v to the projector -- and they are controlled by different settings (player output vs. D2v output).


Bandwidth is reduced on either of those runs if the resolution is lowered, or if you go from /60 to /24, or if you disable Deep Color (switch to 24 bits per pixel). It sounds like you've tried each of those and found they fix the problem, and that really does point the finger at the cabling.


If you have ANYTHING ELSE in the HDMI path -- daisy-chained cables, adapters, wall plates, HDMI switches, Darblet processor, ANYTHING other than just a straight single cable run, then that could be the problem. The good luck you've had with the HDMI 5 input could just be coincidence (the particular content you were playing when you tried that) or could suggest that the input cable has a flaky mechanical fit and just happens to fit better in the HDMI 5 socket.


Keep in mind that HDMI plugs are only friction fit, and it only takes a slight shift of plug in socket to screw things up. Cable weight or kinks/bends in the cable may put enough tugging on the plug at either end to to that.


One thing to try is the "wiggle test". Repeatedly play a chunk of content that shows the problem. While that's playing gently grab an HDMI cable about 1 inch back from the plug and give it a gentle wiggle while pressing it STRAIGHT into the socket. If that makes the problem go away, then you may need to support the cable near that plug in some fashion. Try each end of each cable.


If you truly think you've eliminated all possibility of cable problems, then I suggest you re-install the firmware. But my money is on this being a cabling problem you haven't identified yet.

--Bob


----------



## BobL


Digital signaling is different then analog and the logic for diagnosing a problem is different.  The 30' cable is most likely your problem.  I don't care if it works directly to a source component.  Again digital is different from analog and too much to explain.  Turn off deep color/ 36 bit or any other setting which could increase the bandwidth. Try a lower resolution like 480P.  If it works at the lower resolution or reduced bit depth you probably have a cabling problem.  To test whether it is cabling problem put all you equipment near each other and test the system with short cables


----------



## myc52002

Thank you very much for all the info. I realize the symptoms suggest cable and I did notice that switching from 24 to 60 made the issue worse so that suggests more cable related but the baffling part is everything was working fine and now it is through the HDMI 5 input. I did try all the suggestions such as the wiggling connectors, reseating, reinstalling firmware etc. The key digital cable is DPL certified. For me I am inclined to think I have a problem with the 1-4 HDMI board simply because the problem dissappears with the HDMI 5 connection (second baord). That IMO eliminates the cable issue. If it was the cable it should present regardless of the input. Combined with the fact it was working correctly and has gotten progessively worse again points at the board (can a cable slowly get worse?) but I have not seen comments about anyone having an issue such as this.


If any one symptom is eliminated that clears the cable then it has to be something else right? It works without issue (so far) through input 5 as it used to through input 2. That eliminates the cable.


With that said somewhere I think I saw a setting for 36 bit but if it should be off that would eliminate much as when I do the sparkles go away. The only other thing I still can't identify is why the video is doing the random jerky thing (regardless of the deep color setting or other settings). Could that also be a cabling issue? Doesn't make sense that it would be and once again has me pointing at the HDMI board. Why would a pause and start fix it yet to have it pop up again and again? Maybe this is an Oppo problem possibly?


I am going to play with it a lot more tonight since I just discovered late last night input 5 worked. I did not see any video stuttering in the short testing I did as I was primarily trying to fix the sparkles first so I hope that the video issue may have resolved as well. I am trying to be sure I do not have an issue with the D2v or Oppo more than enything else.


----------



## myc52002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800#post_23404317
> 
> 
> Cable issues pop up with different equipment and at any time, so that doesn't mean anything. Just curious, did Oppo recommend you run 36-bit deep color? We normally recommend to turn it off. Also is the D2v video output config setup the same way or does it have the bypass mode?



D2v setting is an interesting question. I have video out 2 (use with the Oppo) as HDMI and 1080P/24 color space HDTV and the other settings as auto. Component is set to bypass but that input is not used. I did not see the ability to set the HDMI to pass through. Is this somehow interfering with the Oppo setting for 1080P output and the D2v is duplicating in some way? IE should the D2v be set differently when pairing with the Oppo doing the video output heavy lifting?


But then again I did not have any problem what so ever as set right now previously.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800#post_23404847
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for all the info. I realize the symptoms suggest cable and I did notice that switching from 24 to 60 made the issue worse so that suggests more cable related but the baffling part is everything was working fine and now it is through the HDMI 5 input. I did try all the suggestions such as the wiggling connectors, reseating, reinstalling firmware etc. The key digital cable is DPL certified. For me I am inclined to think I have a problem with the 1-4 HDMI board simply because the problem dissappears with the HDMI 5 connection (second baord). That IMO eliminates the cable issue. If it was the cable it should present regardless of the input. Combined with the fact it was working correctly and has gotten progessively worse again points at the board (can a cable slowly get worse?) but I have not seen comments about anyone having an issue such as this.
> 
> 
> If any one symptom is eliminated that clears the cable then it has to be something else right? It works without issue (so far) through input 5 as it used to through input 2. That eliminates the cable.
> 
> 
> With that said somewhere I think I saw a setting for 36 bit but if it should be off that would eliminate much as when I do the sparkles go away. The only other thing I still can't identify is why the video is doing the random jerky thing (regardless of the deep color setting or other settings). Could that also be a cabling issue? Doesn't make sense that it would be and once again has me pointing at the HDMI board. Why would a pause and start fix it yet to have it pop up again and again? Maybe this is an Oppo problem possibly?
> 
> 
> I am going to play with it a lot more tonight since I just discovered late last night input 5 worked. I did not see any video stuttering in the short testing I did as I was primarily trying to fix the sparkles first so I hope that the video issue may have resolved as well. I am trying to be sure I do not have an issue with the D2v or Oppo more than enything else.



I think you should check with Runco as I remember them stating their DLP projectors are not capable of 36bit deep color and are actually only 8 bit due to the limitations with the single chip

Texas instrument chip


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Also, which firmware did you install? V3.09? Talk to Anthem about getting access to the "test" firmware releases on their password protected page. They are up to V3.09j now. None of the bug fixes should be relevant, but it wouldn't hurt to try the newer firmware anyway "just in case".


You are correct that HDMI 5-8 input use different hardware than 1-4, but the type of failure you are describing is not something I've seen reported from the firmware, so if that's what's doing it, it would be a hardware failure.


There WAS a firmware problem that could produce your symptoms in firmware earlier than V3.09 -- fixed quite some time ago.

--Bob


----------



## BobL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800_50#post_23404847
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If any one symptom is eliminated that clears the cable then it has to be something else right? It works without issue (so far) through input 5 as it used to through input 2. That eliminates the cable.


This does not eliminate the cable as being a problem especially when dealing with capacitance.  Capacitance is variable and only a small amount might make a difference like using input 5 which is on a different board and probably has slightly different capacitance.  It can also be affected by temperature and age of cable.  Temperature fluctuation is not usually a problem in the home environment and age might only change it a couple of pico-farads.  But, if you are the edge of that digital cliff it can be enough to cause problems.  When dealing with HDMI problems it I best to find out if it is an equipment issue or a cabling issue.

 

  The easiest practical way to do it is by using short cables and test the system.  As stated there can be problems with short cables just not as common.  Most don't use this simple method because it is a pain to move their equipment near each other to test it but it can save a ton of time chasing your tail, trying different combinations of equipment or replacing equipment that isn't the cause of the problem. Other than trying different settings like 36 bit (12bit x 3 colors) to 24bit (8bit x 3 colors) it should be the first step in diagnosing HDMI problems.

 

The Key digital cable is not DPL certified and given its longer length I find it very suspect.  There haven't been any cables over ~25ft that have passed DPL testing without some type of circuitry like Redmere or active cables.

http://www.dpllabs.com/page/dpl-approved-products


----------



## myc52002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800#post_23405166
> 
> 
> I think you should check with Runco as I remember them stating their DLP projectors are not capable of 36bit deep color and are actually only 8 bit due to the limitations with the single chip
> 
> Texas instrument chip



I will check it out but still it has been working fine for a few years now (and since last summer with the Oppo) so I am not confident that is an issue. Thanks


----------



## myc52002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40830#post_23405450
> 
> 
> Also, which firmware did you install? V3.09? Talk to Anthem about getting access to the "test" firmware releases on their password protected page. They are up to V3.09j now. None of the bug fixes should be relevant, but it wouldn't hurt to try the newer firmware anyway "just in case".
> 
> 
> You are correct that HDMI 5-8 input use different hardware than 1-4, but the type of failure you are describing is not something I've seen reported from the firmware, so if that's what's doing it, it would be a hardware failure.
> 
> 
> There WAS a firmware problem that could produce your symptoms in firmware earlier than V3.09 -- fixed quite some time ago.
> 
> --Bob



I did install the last official 3.09 but have not tried any of the beta versions. I think I still have the password from way back if it has not changed to get access. I am also thinking it could be a hardware issue. I played with it last night with a couple movies through HDMI 5 and none of the issues showed up.


The stuttering video only applied to one disc I tried (Jack Reacher) so maybe it is just that disc for some reason. Django played all the way through with out any issue at all in any way. I could almost like clockwork make Reacher stutter by forwarding to the next chapter, it would start and I pause and go again and clears up or if I switch the input in any way (whether it is from 24 to 60 and back or switch off to any input and back it would fix the issue until it cropped back up again) This did not matter if I had deep color on or off or lower res settings etc. In other words it seems to be independent of the sparkle issue. Hard to say if it is the way the Oppo handles this disc or the D2v. The good news I only use 2 HDMI inputs so if it is hardware I am not in crunch to get it fixed for now. Yay. But I would still like to figure it out. Thanks Bob.


----------



## myc52002

Hmmm. That is interesting info. I could swear I saw that the cable was certified but in any case I can't remove the equipment from built in racks and even get it within 6 feet of where the projector is mounted to try shorter cables. I guess if I can continue to have success with the HDMI 5 input I can live with it for now as is. I still have a hard time grasping the fact it has worked perfectly and now not and I usually migrate to what I perceive as the most likely scenario first. For me I still think it may be a hardware issue as that would seem more plausible than the cable going bad. Just my opinion of course. I can't back that up with any real fact or that I am some engineering genius of which I am not, just my gut feeling. But your points are well taken, understood and could very well be spot on I just won't really know unless I move the equipment in some way. I am going to run some more discs through and see if the jerky video applies only to the Reacher disc or not. I hope so but if not I am still back to a hardware concern, whether it is the Oppo, D2v or cable in some way.


Thanks!


----------



## AVfile

There is probably no need to move anything or upgrade the cable. You are good having both resolution settings fixed at 1080p and using 24p when appropriate. Through mode is only available in the Anthem with the "3D bypass" upgrade. Without that you manually need to switch the Anthem video output config to change frame rate between 24p and 60p. You can still use "source direct" mode in the Oppo if you want.


However:

In the Oppo set Deep Color OFF.

In the D2v video output configs set DATA to 8-bit. The AUTO settings are adding variables, like Bob said.

That will fix your sparkles and make the HDMI handshake more reliable.


Please report back about the stuttering.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myc52002*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40830#post_23407888
> 
> 
> I did install the last official 3.09 but have not tried any of the beta versions. I think I still have the password from way back if it has not changed to get access. I am also thinking it could be a hardware issue. I played with it last night with a couple movies through HDMI 5 and none of the issues showed up.
> 
> 
> The stuttering video only applied to one disc I tried (Jack Reacher) so maybe it is just that disc for some reason. Django played all the way through with out any issue at all in any way. I could almost like clockwork make Reacher stutter by forwarding to the next chapter, it would start and I pause and go again and clears up or if I switch the input in any way (whether it is from 24 to 60 and back or switch off to any input and back it would fix the issue until it cropped back up again) This did not matter if I had deep color on or off or lower res settings etc. In other words it seems to be independent of the sparkle issue. Hard to say if it is the way the Oppo handles this disc or the D2v. The good news I only use 2 HDMI inputs so if it is hardware I am not in crunch to get it fixed for now. Yay. But I would still like to figure it out. Thanks Bob.



Have you updated your OPPO firmware ? Many have reported a new copy protection on the Jack Reacher BD disk that gives playback problems.


----------



## AVfile

I believe you also have the video format set to AUTO rather than YCbCr or RGB. You may wish to experiment with different settings and see what your projector prefers. 4:2:2 would be the simplest for the Oppo to generate, but I have found RGB (Video not PC) to produce equally good results. The Anthem VXP works with Studio RGB natively, so if your display is happy with that it might work better than AUTO. It will definitely simplify the HDMI handshake and make it more reliable, maybe even faster.


----------



## BobL


If everything is working great!!!  I understand it is difficult to move the projector to the equipment or vice versa but it is the best method.  However, If you run into this problem again and you might as it sounds like you may be on the edge of the digital cliff.   Try this before moving equipment.  Set the output resolution going to the projector to 480P.  If it works at 480P then try 720P, 1080i, 1080P.  If you lose the signal as the resolution goes up it is most likely a cable problem.

 

BTW, when I say the cable is bad it does mean it has a short, loose connection or poorly constructed, it means it is not capable of handling the bandwidth needed for that signal. This has been a problem with cables for a long time.  However, in the digital world once the signal degrades so much we lose picture and sound, it is all or nothing.  With analog a decreased signal meant we lost quality.  With analog though we still had picture and sound, and the average person couldn't tell if they were getting only 900 lines of resolution instead of 1080.  The signal would have to be pretty poor before the average person noticed.


----------



## myc52002




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40830#post_23408003
> 
> 
> Have you updated your OPPO firmware ? Many have reported a new copy protection on the Jack Reacher BD disk that gives playback problems.



I did install the new beta version as that was the only release available that I could update to from the existing install. Did not make any difference. I searched a bunch looking to see if there were any issues with the Reacher disc and could not find any but if there are others saying so I am inclined to agree for sure. I have not had any more issues yet with the video stuttering so it is looking more and more like it could be just that disc. If you can by chance attach any link to other conversations about that disc I would like to read about it. Thanks!


As for the other suggestions above I will be working through the suggestions and will update in a day or 2 once I have a good sample of work to give a good report back. Thank you all for chiming in.


----------



## David Bott

Hey Guys...


Just a note if anyone you know is looking for an Anthem D2V 3D...I have my personal unit for sale for only$5,500.00 plus shipping. Yes, only $5,500.00 Like new and yes, is the 3D version.


We are moving into our motor home and thus can not use this now. My loss, is someone GREAT gain.


PM me. Ready to ship.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David Bott*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800_100#post_23419308
> 
> 
> Hey Guys...
> 
> 
> Just a note if anyone you know is looking for an Anthem D2V 3D...I have my personal unit for sale for only$5,500.00 plus shipping. Yes, only $5,500.00 Like new and yes, is the 3D version.
> 
> 
> We are moving into our motor home and thus can not use this now. My loss, is someone GREAT gain.
> 
> 
> PM me. Ready to ship.



Great Deal - I am sure it will *SELL FAST*


----------



## obie_fl

Who is this Bott guy anyway??? First he spams the Oppo threads trying to sell his 93 and 103 and now the Anthem thread. This is why we have for sale forums.





















Motor Home my...


























Just in case somebody doesn't have a sense of humor I know who Mr Bott is.


Oh yea I just picked up a 3D model for that price on the big auction site by the Bay and yes that's a very good price. If I had known you were selling I would have jumped on it and had you autograph it.


----------



## David Bott




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40830#post_23420708
> 
> 
> Who is this Bott guy anyway??? First he spams the Oppo threads trying to sell his 93 and 103 and now the Anthem thread. This is why we have for sale forums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Motor Home my...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just in case somebody doesn't have a sense of humor I know who Mr Bott is.
> 
> 
> Oh yea I just picked up a 3D model for that price on the big auction site by the Bay and yes that's a very good price. If I had known you were selling I would have jumped on it and had you autograph it.



Ok, that was funny.







I would have signed it for you. On the last auction on the Home Theater Cruise I had a t-shirt with the original AVSForum logo on it. When we tried to action it for charity it did not go anywhere. I then signed it and it sold for $80.00. I guess what I am saying is thanks for valuing what I have done.


Still have it. It is the 3D version...the current selling version with an MSRP of $9,500! We are moving our soon.


----------



## Ed Weinman

...I've had the Statement D1 for a while now and was wondering if Anthem would be able to upgrade/install HDMI so that I could take advantage of the latest surround programs...


...thanks, in advance


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800_100#post_23424453
> 
> 
> ...I've had the Statement D1 for a while now and was wondering if Anthem would be able to upgrade/install HDMI so that I could take advantage of the latest surround programs...
> 
> 
> ...thanks, in advance



I believe the ANSWER is a *BIG NO*


----------



## Ed Weinman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40830#post_23424476
> 
> 
> I believe the ANSWER is a *BIG NO*



...my ego is not that big...a small no would also work...


(the reason for the question is that someone on audiogon.com claims to be selling a D2 which was upgraded from a D1.)


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40830#post_23424731
> 
> 
> ...my ego is not that big...a small no would also work...
> 
> 
> (the reason for the question is that someone on audiogon.com claims to be selling a D1 which was upgraded to D2.)



That is possible because they use to do it.


They stopped many years ago


----------



## Ed Weinman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40830#post_23424744
> 
> 
> That is possible because they use to do it.
> 
> 
> They stopped many years ago



Thanks.


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *David Bott*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40830#post_23422912
> 
> 
> Ok, that was funny.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have signed it for you. On the last auction on the Home Theater Cruise I had a t-shirt with the original AVSForum logo on it. When we tried to action it for charity it did not go anywhere. I then signed it and it sold for $80.00. I guess what I am saying is thanks for valuing what I have done.
> 
> 
> Still have it. It is the 3D version...the current selling version with an MSRP of $9,500! We are moving our soon.



Dave, i would have bought that $80.00 shirt, but it was too small

many happy trails in your new toy.

the paint job is terrific: looking forward to the inside views.

Am familiar with the Prevost conversions, and am certain that your 'Tour' will be even more grand.

Anticipating the next Home Theater Cruise. Always a special treat.

Walt & Marily-Anne Pletcher, in sunny Florida.


----------



## dmusoke


Has anyone compared the sound of the D2v in Analog-Direct versus a HT bypass switch? The reason I'm asking is that when I bypass the D2v and connect my Oppo BDP-105 direct to my Sunfire power amp, the sound seems 'better' and 'cleaner'.  Am I imagining things here?

 

Sorry but I don't have the syrupy lingo audiophiles use to describe what I hear.

 

Is there a way to have both a bypass switch(of some sort, recommendations?) and a D2v in my system?


----------



## AVfile

I dunno, Most would claim that it is totally transparent in analog direct mode. It could be that it was just a tiny bit louder which was perceived as cleaner. So you have to make sure to match levels within 0.5 dB before making any such claims or you may get flamed on here.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40830#post_23431167
> 
> 
> Has anyone compared the sound of the D2v in Analog-Direct versus a HT bypass switch? The reason I'm asking is that when I bypass the D2v and connect my Oppo BDP-105 direct to my Sunfire power amp, the sound seems 'better' and 'cleaner'.  Am I imagining things here?
> 
> 
> Sorry but I don't have the syrupy lingo audiophiles use to describe what I hear.
> 
> 
> Is there a way to have both a bypass switch(of some sort, recommendations?) and a D2v in my system?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40830#post_23432059
> 
> 
> I dunno, Most would claim that it is totally transparent in analog direct mode. It could be that it was just a tiny bit louder which was perceived as cleaner. So you have to make sure to match levels within 0.5 dB before making any such claims or you may get flamed on here.



There may be a difference in impedance when connecting the OPPO direct to your Sunfire amp.

The only way I know to listen to 2 channel stereo without any Anthem Pre/Pro influence is using a 2 channel stereo preamp with a HT bypass built in.


----------



## dmusoke


Thanks guys ... I'm willing to accept a mismatch in levels in my tests. So what volume setting on the Anthem corresponds to no gain or 0dB?

 

Or (put another way), if I have a source with 2Vrms output max, then what volume setting will produce a 2Vrms output from the anthem?

 

- David


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40830#post_23432398
> 
> 
> Thanks guys ... I'm willing to accept a mismatch in levels in my tests. So what volume setting on the Anthem corresponds to no gain or 0dB?
> 
> 
> Or (put another way), if I have a source with 2Vrms output max, then what volume setting will produce a 2Vrms output from the anthem?
> 
> 
> - David



That is not what I was saying about impedance mismatch which will change the sound not the volume.


And


You cannot level match by setting the Anthem Volume control. You could level match by setting the analog input level in setup.

The output of the OPPO analog should be fxied not variable


----------



## dmusoke


Good catch on the volume level match...

 

The input impedance to the Sunfire is high enough at 20k to 25kohm, a suitable match to the 100 ohm (200 ohm XLR) output impedance of the Oppo so there should be no problem there. Besides, D2v output impedance is 300 ohm (RCA) and 600 ohm (XLR) and it plays nice with the Sunfire.


----------



## dmusoke


Anyone having trouble bit-streaming MCH audio using an Oppo 103/105 and a D2v?.

 

I can bit-stream stereo but not 5.1 audio. I have to switch the Oppo to LPCM to hear 5.1 audio. Both the Oppo and D2v are using the latest beta firmware...


----------



## obie_fl

No problems here with 103 and D2v using production firmware on both though. I'm sure Bob P would have noticed this by now. What is the media source?


----------



## dmusoke


Blurays ...


----------



## obie_fl

Do you have one Oppo output going directly to the display? If so do you have Split A/V set?


----------



## dmusoke


I have Dual Display setup in the setup screen. Both HDMI outputs of the Oppo go to the Anthem inputs. I tried to disconnect one output, which muted the video on the TV for a bit but was re-established afterwards. Still no audio ...


----------



## obie_fl

Why both???


What does the Oppo say it is outputting and the Anthem says it is receiving?

Sounds like it is reading the display's EDID vice the Anthems, maybe time to disconnect and reset both devices?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40830#post_23433944
> 
> 
> Anyone having trouble bit-streaming MCH audio using an Oppo 103/105 and a D2v?.
> 
> 
> I can bit-stream stereo but not 5.1 audio. I have to switch the Oppo to LPCM to hear 5.1 audio. Both the Oppo and D2v are using the latest beta firmware...



I Bitstream multi-channel to the D2v all the time from the 105. Bitstream is more likely to generate handshake issues. Start by bringing up the on-screen Info in the OPPO, then use Page Up/Down to change the display to also show the HDMI output. Make sure you are sending 720p or higher to the D2v for video if you are trying to play a high bit-rate track, and check that the OPPO says it is sending out Bitstream on the HDMI connection to the D2v. And of course check that you are actually playing the multi-channel track from the disc -- some discs have their default track set to something less than their best track.


Then use the Select button displays in the D2v to see what format and number of channels the D2v sees coming in as input.


If the D2v is seeing the wrong thing, try forcing a new handshake -- change the OPPO output resolution to 1080i and then back to 1080p using the Resolution button on its remote.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40860#post_23434697
> 
> 
> I have Dual Display setup in the setup screen. Both HDMI outputs of the Oppo go to the Anthem inputs. I tried to disconnect one output, which muted the video on the TV for a bit but was re-established afterwards. Still no audio ...



No, don't use Dual Display. Use Split A/V. Your intent is to only ever use *ONE* of those two HDMI connections at any point in time, so the choice shouldn't matter, but Dual Display is not for the way you have this hooked up.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40860#post_23434899
> 
> 
> No, don't use Dual Display. Use Split A/V. Your intent is to only ever use *ONE* of those two HDMI connections at any point in time, so the choice shouldn't matter, but Dual Display is not for the way you have this hooked up.
> 
> --Bob



As usual Bob is right and 100% correct


here is what OPPO says about dual display


Understanding Dual Display Mode


?The dual HDMI outputs on the BDP-10x series of players provide additional versatility in the connections you are able to make to the rest of your equipment.

The player's Dual HDMI Output setting defaults to Split A/V, which allows video output to a display and audio output to an AV receiver / processor, but this setting can also be changed to Dual Display in order to accomodate connecting to two displays.


Using Dual Display mode will result in both audio and video being sent to each device that is connected via HDMI, but both the audio and video quality may be limited compared to using a single HDMI connection or Split A/V mode.


The player's Output Resolution cannot be adjusted per HDMI output, so it will be limited to the highest resolution supported by both devices. For instance, if one display is capable of receiving a 1080p signal, but the other connected display cannot receive a signal higher than 720p, the Output Resolution will be limited to 720p for both outputs.


Audio is handled similarly in Dual Display mode, though it is often less of an issue since many displays do not contain any Dolby or DTS decoding capabilities. As such, *audio will often be limited to 2ch PCM when using Dual Display mode.*


----------



## dmusoke


OK... Thanks everyone. So here's what I did:

 

1. Change video mode from Dual Display to Split A/V

 

Oppo Info Screen says:

 

HDMI 1: [email protected] RGB 30b Bitstream   HDMI 2: Not Connected    Page 1

 

2/2 English DTS-HD MA 5.1 48k                AVC BDMV 24.000Hz 16:9   Page 2

 

Changing video bit-depth to anything other than 30b (or its dithered version) produces sound. In other words:

 

8-bit video -> Bitstream OK.

*30-bit video -> NO AUDIO!!!*

36-bit video -> Bitstream OK.

 

I even bypassed by Darbee processor on the output of the D2v and no change in behavior.

 

I first saw this phenomenon when I was watching the British Miniseries on Blu-ray called "Downton Abbey" but didn't do much investigating as I was deeply engrossed in the drama and simply couldn't spare much time to trouble shoot







...

 

What is it about 30-bit setting that disables the bit streaming audio in my setup? During this 30b mode, though HDMI is silent during bit streaming, 6-Ch analog audio from the Oppo analog outputs is OK and I hear sound fine, which is weird imo.

 

Any takers on what gremlin could be in my setup?

 

*PS*

I use 2 outputs from the Oppo as I wanted to compare the video of its HDMI 1 & 2 outputs...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Are you talking about the Deep Color setting in the OPPO? If so, write up the details and email that to OPPO Tech Support. They have an AVM 50v they can use for testing, and if they can reproduce the problem it should be possible for them to isolate whether is is an OPPO or Anthem problem. A similar result with 30-bit has been reported before with a different AVR, but I don't think they've isolated a readily reproducible case.


(i use Deep Color OFF (Dithered) for HDMI 1 output from the OPPO almost exclusively, so I've not done a lot of experimenting with audio vs. 30-bit video output from the OPPO. But I'll find the time to check this in a bit.)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ OK, I just set the OPPO 105 to output RGB Video Level, Deep Color 30-bit, 1080p/60 on HDMI 1 (only) with Bitstream audio (Secondary Audio OFF).


I tested with the DTS-HD MA 5.1 48KHz track from "Rango", Blu-ray, and had no problem getting Bitstream audio. This is with the Public Beta 0522B firmware in the OPPO, and V3.09j firmware in the D2v.


So it's not as if 30-bit can't be made to work into the D2v. Which will make this a bit tougher to nail down.



If you can reproduce the problem, do report it to OPPO and they can start the process of trying to figure out what's up. They have contacts into Anthem as needed.


In addition to the steps I suggested above to force a new handshake (toggling 1080i / 1080p from the OPPO), also try this:


While the problem is happening (no audio), press the Select button displays on the D2v and see what it says is coming in as audio input. If it says the input is LPCM (when it should be Bitstream DTS-HD MA), try this: Press the Audio button on the OPPO remote and see if there is an alternate language track on the disc which is NOT a high bit rate track. DD or DTS 2.0 or 5.1, in any language, it doesn't matter so long as it is not DTS-HD MA, TrueHD or LPCM. Select that track -- you should now have audio -- now repeat this and select the original DTS-HD MA track. Do you have proper Bitstream audio now? With the D2v's Select button displays also showing that? If so, please include this in your report to OPPO.


Be sure to include the details on the disc you are using to test this. The problem may be related to the specific set of handshakes that disc triggers on its way to starting up the feature -- which by the way, I note is a 24.000 fps feature rather than the "normal" 23.976 fps. If possible include the bar code number from that disc's packaging, so OPPO can be sure they are looking at the same version of that disc that you have.

--Bob


----------



## Kris Deering

In an off topic sort of way, what is the point of deep color at 30 bit with RGB out? I can't see where there would be any benefit to this at all.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40830#post_23432398
> 
> 
> Thanks guys ... I'm willing to accept a mismatch in levels in my tests. So what volume setting on the Anthem corresponds to no gain or 0dB?
> 
> 
> Or (put another way), if I have a source with 2Vrms output max, then what volume setting will produce a 2Vrms output from the anthem?
> 
> 
> - David



Probably 0 but there are trims at play like Stew said, so you would have to make measurements to test the theory. At unity gain it will be incredibly loud, like if you used fixed output on the Oppo straight into your amp!


If you use the variable out on the Oppo direct to the amp, then it should be set exactly the same with the Anthem in the loop FOR COMPARISON PURPOSES.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40860#post_23436310
> 
> 
> In an off topic sort of way, what is the point of deep color at 30 bit with RGB out? I can't see where there would be any benefit to this at all.



Kris, do you think 36-bit makes more sense?


I don't use deep color at all myself, but my understanding is it's good for people that use other picture enhancement features IN THE PLAYER because the extra bits make for "better math". But in *source direct* mode it's just adding a bunch of zeroes to the data and wasting bandwidth.


I suppose 30-bit could help in the case where 36-bit is too much bandwidth for those with long HDMI cables.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40860#post_23436394
> 
> 
> Kris, do you think 36-bit makes more sense?
> 
> 
> I don't use deep color at all myself, but my understanding is it's good for people that use other picture enhancement features IN THE PLAYER because the extra bits make for "better math". But in *source direct* mode it's just adding a bunch of zeroes to the data and wasting bandwidth.
> 
> 
> I suppose 30-bit could help in the case where 36-bit is too much bandwidth for those with long HDMI cables.




I think you will find that no HDMI cable manufacturer or supplier has a HDMI cable capable of passing or providing the bandwidth

for 10 (30 bit) or 12 (36 bit) bit 1080P which is the HDMI 1.3 specification certification test.

Since blu rays are the source of most HDMI videos and none have been commercially distributed in Deep Color, 10 (30 bit) or 12 (36 bit)

bit 1080P, I take that to mean all are 8 bit and the only way to get Deep Color is for the player or Pre/Pro to upscale the video. So the user then makes a choice which up scales better the player or the display. And would you want both or either to do the up scaling. And then, which provides the best quality picture.

Numerous tests on up scaling shows no improvement and some blooming and other abnormalities.

Then add to this the inability of the HDMI cabling to provide the bandwidth and you are going downhill with increasing problems.


----------



## Donloz

Here is a write up on the D2v. http://www.residentialsystems.com/product-reviews/0036/adventures-in-upgrading-my-old-anthem-d2v-to-shiny-new-3d/84723


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40860#post_23435595
> 
> 
> ^ OK, I just set the OPPO 105 to output RGB Video Level, Deep Color 30-bit, 1080p/60 on HDMI 1 (only) with Bitstream audio (Secondary Audio OFF).
> 
> 
> I tested with the DTS-HD MA 5.1 48KHz track from "Rango", Blu-ray, and had no problem getting Bitstream audio. This is with the Public Beta 0522B firmware in the OPPO, and V3.09j firmware in the D2v.
> 
> 
> So it's not as if 30-bit can't be made to work into the D2v. Which will make this a bit tougher to nail down.
> 
> 
> 
> If you can reproduce the problem, do report it to OPPO and they can start the process of trying to figure out what's up. They have contacts into Anthem as needed.
> 
> 
> In addition to the steps I suggested above to force a new handshake (toggling 1080i / 1080p from the OPPO), also try this:
> 
> 
> While the problem is happening (no audio), press the Select button displays on the D2v and see what it says is coming in as audio input. If it says the input is LPCM (when it should be Bitstream DTS-HD MA), try this: Press the Audio button on the OPPO remote and see if there is an alternate language track on the disc which is NOT a high bit rate track. DD or DTS 2.0 or 5.1, in any language, it doesn't matter so long as it is not DTS-HD MA, TrueHD or LPCM. Select that track -- you should now have audio -- now repeat this and select the original DTS-HD MA track. Do you have proper Bitstream audio now? With the D2v's Select button displays also showing that? If so, please include this in your report to OPPO.
> 
> 
> Be sure to include the details on the disc you are using to test this. The problem may be related to the specific set of handshakes that disc triggers on its way to starting up the feature -- which by the way, I note is a 24.000 fps feature rather than the "normal" 23.976 fps. If possible include the bar code number from that disc's packaging, so OPPO can be sure they are looking at the same version of that disc that you have.
> 
> --Bob


 

David,

We have confirmed that with HDMI 1 going through an Anthem 50v that when Deep Color is set to 30-bit and the Output Resolution is set to 1080p and 1080p/24Hz Output is set to OFF, Anthem 50v will not handshake HDMI audio with the player.

HDMI 2 does not exhibit the same issues at 1080p/60Hz, and the other Deep Color modes do not produce the same errors.
Best Regards, 


Customer Service 

OPPO Digital, Inc. 
2629B Terminal Blvd.

Mountain View, CA 94043
[email protected]  

Tel: 650-961-1118 

Fax: 650-961-1119


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Try that trick I described of selecting a lossy DD or DTS alternate track for the feature and then going back to the DTS-HD MA track. I think that will be a workaround for you at 30-bit.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater

Gents,


The new Roomie Remove v 1.9 has been released and supports feedback for the D2v and 50v (and older models) via serial commands. Volume, input, and mode all display in the Roomie. Zones Main, 2, and 3 should be in the final release. If you encounter any issues, can you please let me know so that I can debug on my end. I developed the final files for Roomie and was beta testing the Anthem serial support. I developed a fairly extensive command set as a default based on the flexible and mature command set from Anthem. In the next release (fingers crossed) I'll also have radio/tuner feedback support. I submitted the files to roomie, but it was too late in the beta to have that support added.


Theo


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" Firmware V3.09l for D2v and AVM 50v now on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page*


Anthem has placed "Test" firmware V3.09l on their password protected download page -- applicable to the D2v, D2v/3D, and AVM 50v.


Change notes for changes since the last "Official" release (V3.09) now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v3.09l beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed issue where Dolby Pro Logic IIx Music was not available for 2-channel 24/192 input.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09j beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed serial control issue where Zone 2 had no audio if powering on to tuner.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed AVM 50v issue where noise was present when playing 176.4 kHz source.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09h release candidate:
> 
> 
> 1. When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source was playing, a surround upmix mode couldn't be selected - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. False "No Input Signal" status info when receiving 2-channel input - fixed.
> 
> 
> 3. "Last Used" mode preset reverted to "None" under certain conditions - fixed.
> 
> 
> 4. Previous DTS changes now certified.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Output channel count was displayed incorrectly when 6-ch analog input was selected - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. Further DTS-required changes.
> 
> 
> Known issue: When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source is selected, a surround upmix mode can't be selected.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed bug where AVM 50v sometimes powered on with low volume.
> 
> 
> 2. DTS-required changes for pending certification. Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements.



As always, keep in mind that "Test" firmware is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises requiring you to roll back to earlier firmware. Do not install "Test" firmware unless you are OK with this, and either want to help test it, or need to try a fix included in it.


Personally, I don't use PLIIx-Music, so I'll probably stick with V3.09j for now.

--Bob


----------



## turk 182

Has anyone experienced what the Avm 50v 3D manual calls peak level distortion? I get this a lot through my CC ( Paradigm Signature C-3). Most movies I watch I can hear varying levels of it. I have heard it in my old equipment as well. For example The Town has a lot of distortion. I may of asked this question on here before, but never got a solution.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40860#post_23443659
> 
> 
> Has anyone experienced what the Avm 50v 3D manual calls peak level distortion? I get this a lot through my CC ( Paradigm Signature C-3). Most movies I watch I can hear varying levels of it. I have heard it in my old equipment as well. For example The Town has a lot of distortion. I may of asked this question on here before, but never got a solution.


If using Analog inputs, try lowering the input volume at the Source device. Your Source device may be overloading the inputs. You can lower the input level in Setup as well, but it is often faster just to lower the volume coming out of the Source. (You can also check the peaking level bar graphs in Setup > Input Levels to fine tune the Analog input sensitivity levels. The input has to be set to ANALOG-DSP, perhaps temporarily, to see that peal level bar graphic)


If the problem is primarily in Center, and you have a Subwoofer, make sure Center is not set to Large. Mixers can't assume you have a Sub, and so all critical bass has to go into the regular speakers as well as into the LFE channel (the LFE is for the loud bass), and often that means it is put in Center. This is one of the reasons Center speaker are more likely to get blown out. So long as Center is not set to Large, much of that bass will be steered to the Sub, which makes life a lot easier for the Center speaker.


Also do a Buzz & Rattle test with a calibration disc. Often what sounds like speaker distortion is actually something loose in the room fixtures which is resonating.

--Bob


----------



## turk 182

It`s all been ARCed. Everything is set to advanced. And I use HDMI for movies.


----------



## Audiolic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800#post_23386760
> 
> 
> Just to give you all an update on the progress of the beta and customizations: the forthcoming update to Roomie Remote (v1.9) for iOS will have full serial support for the D2v and 50v (as well as previous Dxx and AVMxx models). There will also be multi zone support for all three zones with full feedback for volume, input, current audio, etc. If any of you have been looking for IP-style control with feedback of the D2 or AVM50v via WiFi, you'll be able to do it with the new release of Roomie Remote.
> 
> 
> I've also coded in several tuner-related commands but feedback for the tuner (what station the Anthem is currently tuned to) did not make it into this release. I'm hoping we'll be able to get that going for the next point release.



What do I need to change or add to my AVM50v in order to control it via the Roomie Remote on my iPhone or iPad ?


----------



## SimonNo10

Just a quick question. I just installed 3.09j going from 3.09 (Official) and ran ARC as I always do that with new firmware and noticed that DTS-MA movies need to be turned up. For example Thor I could only go as high as -18 on the D2v but now to achieve the same level it's now -13 to-12. Has something changed with the way the Anthem handles DTS MA tracks?


Just tested Flight of the Phoenix DTS-MA 5.1 and no change with volume so maybe it's only with 7.1 tracks? Sounded incredible so that's good.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yeah, quite a bit changed. Between V3.09 and V3.09j Anthem redid the DTS certification, and so the new firmware is handling DTS according to the latest DTS guidelines and certification tests.


Most of the work, I suspect, had to do with making sure DTS current rules were followed for odder formats. I would not expect a basic level change except that the +3dB hot across the fronts was probably addressed. Anyway, it wouldn't surprise me if you spot some differences in the handling of DTS Bitstream input. So long as it still sounds good, then new worries -- just adjust the volume to your taste.

--Bob


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40860#post_23447899
> 
> 
> Just a quick question. I just installed 3.09j going from 3.09 (Official) and ran ARC as I always do that with new firmware and noticed that DTS-MA movies need to be turned up. For example Thor I could only go as high as -18 on the D2v but now to achieve the same level it's now -13 to-12. Has something changed with the way the Anthem handles DTS MA tracks?
> 
> 
> Just tested Flight of the Phoenix DTS-MA 5.1 and no change with volume so maybe it's only with 7.1 tracks? Sounded incredible so that's good.




I`m glad you brought up Thor. That is a movie that had a lot of distortion for me. Did you hear any peak level distortion from CC with that movie?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40860#post_23448034
> 
> 
> I`m glad you brought up Thor. That is a movie that had a lot of distortion for me. Did you hear any peak level distortion from CC with that movie?



Sorry but what does CC stand for?


----------



## SARHENTO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40860#post_23448049
> 
> 
> Sorry but what does CC stand for?



CENTER CHANNEL perhaps?


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40860#post_23446799
> 
> 
> What do I need to change or add to my AVM50v in order to control it via the Roomie Remote on my iPhone or iPad ?



I use iRule but same concept. Basically you need a device that connects to your network (WiFi or Wired) and communicates to your equipment either by IR or the serial port. Global Cache makes numerous devices that do this. See their product page here.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40860#post_23448034
> 
> 
> I`m glad you brought up Thor. That is a movie that had a lot of distortion for me. Did you hear any peak level distortion from CC with that movie?



I believe some have noted distortion in DTS HD 7.1 tracks using the decoder in the Oppo 83 (not the decoder in the AVM). Are you using bitstream or PCM?


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40860#post_23446799
> 
> 
> What do I need to change or add to my AVM50v in order to control it via the Roomie Remote on my iPhone or iPad ?



If you are using the serial connection then you need the iTach flex adapter for serial. You can buy it off the roomieremote.com store. Only the serial provides feedback and the serial command set is much more extensive than te IR set.


----------



## AVfile

Just a follow-up on this:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40590#post_23217663
> 
> 
> I've noticed the display shows "NO SIGNAL" with 2.0 and 1.0 tracks yet there is sound, i.e. just another display bug.
> 
> 
> Yes I have the latest FW 3.09h



The "NO SIGNAL" seems to be caused because I had the MODE PRESETS set to LAST USED and the mode had not been "initialized" since my last firmware update. Simply selecting a mode manually, for each input signal type, initializes them and then LAST USED will function correctly.


It appears that the modes do not persist through the SAVE/LOAD FACTORY/LOAD SAVED process required for firmware updates, so it might be necessary to repeat the initial mode selection every time you update firmware.


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40860#post_23448391
> 
> 
> I believe some have noted distortion in DTS HD 7.1 tracks using the decoder in the Oppo 83 (not the decoder in the AVM). Are you using bitstream or PCM?



I am using bitstream.


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40860#post_23448049
> 
> 
> Sorry but what does CC stand for?




Yes sorry center channel. Thor triggers dialog normalization +4 with my AVM 50v and it had a lot of peak level distortion.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23450385
> 
> 
> Yes sorry center channel. Thor triggers dialog normalization +4 with my AVM 50v and it had a lot of peak level distortion.



Cool thanks was doing my head in with it's meaning. I was under the impression that dialog normalization only appears when playing back Dolby audio tracks not DTS. I'm using an Oppo BDP-95 Bitstream and tested Batman-Dark Knight Rises 5.1 DTS-HD MA and no volume differences between 3.09 to 3.09j, it's only been with Thor but haven't had a chance to test another 7.1 track. Will try another one tonight and report back.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23450385
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40860#post_23448049
> 
> 
> Sorry but what does CC stand for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes sorry center channel. Thor triggers dialog normalization +4 with my AVM 50v and it had a lot of peak level distortion.
Click to expand...


What player are you using? If it has a setting for enabling Secondary Audio mixing, make sure that is turned off.


When you press the Select button displays on the AVM 50v, does it report the audio input format as DTS-HD MA (not DTS or DD) with 7.1 channels active for input?


Do you get the same problem if you switch the player to HDMI LPCM output?


On the AVM 50v, go into Setup > Source Setup for that player input and double-check that Room EQ really is set to ON (that's for ARC) and that Dolby Volume is OFF.


Next, do the following to make sure you don't have any lingering "temporary" speaker level adjustments that you've forgotten about. Go into Setup and:


1) Save User Settings

2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue via the Front Panel Display.

3) Reload Saved User Settings.


The "temporary" settings are not saved, so this resets all of them at one go. (If you bypass the Tone controls in the AVM 50v, as I do, know that this is also a "temporary" setting, so you will have to hit the "9" button on the AVM 50v remote after this to re-establish the bypass.)


Another good thing to try is to re-Upload your existing ARC solution, just in case you accidentally modified any of the settings it uploads into Setup without realizing it. You can do this without having to re-Measure or re-Calculate. Just open your existing ARC solution file and use the Upload button in the app (top left).

--Bob


----------



## turk 182

I would like to try and re ARC it. When I did ARC I wasn`t really familiar with the AVM and didn`t upload sub to flat like I should of. Is there any other advanced setting in ARC I could play with or that you would recommend? I don`t have the options of ARC in front of me, so I couldn`t give you examples, but basically all I did was run the measurements and uploaded them. I know in PBK there are extra tweeks you can use, like switching from auto to flat. Thanks


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23451692
> 
> 
> Cool thanks was doing my head in with it's meaning. I was under the impression that dialog normalization only appears when playing back Dolby audio tracks not DTS. I'm using an Oppo BDP-95 Bitstream and tested Batman-Dark Knight Rises 5.1 DTS-HD MA and no volume differences between 3.09 to 3.09j, it's only been with Thor but haven't had a chance to test another 7.1 track. Will try another one tonight and report back.




So you never noticed any distortion with Thor on your system? I wonder if my center channel may have some issues. It`s still under warranty, so it wouldn`t cost anything, but would be a pain.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23452079
> 
> 
> So you never noticed any distortion with Thor on your system? I wonder if my center channel may have some issues. It`s still under warranty, so it wouldn`t cost anything, but would be a pain.



No distortion for me. Hope you get it sorted out.


----------



## AVfile

To diagnose this I would not add complications of advanced ARC settings. In fact I would disable ARC room EQ in source setup, and just play something simple like a DVD or CD really loud and see if your speaker distorts.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The easiest way to check if the problem is after the Anthem (amp or speaker) is to swap outputs plugs at the back of the Anthem (such as Center and LF). If the problem stays in Center then it is the amp or the speaker.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Turk 182,

Could you post your ARC charts?

There may be signs of the "Richard Syndrome" in your center channel charts.


Tom


----------



## Shazbatz

Hello everyone. I have a sound issue with a used Anthem D2 I just purchased. When using HDMI sound signals (Blu-ray,HD cable box) i'm getting very weak to almost no dialogue. Other sounds do come in (movie music, etc..). Some stations on cable box do work fine and some don't. With Blu-ray/DVD i'm getting barely any dialogue.

HDMI video also seems fine. I checked the settings and reset to factory default, but still no luck. When the D2 if fed with another type of digital sound signal (coax,optical) it sounds perfect. I ran my CD player to it (coax) and it sounds fine with music. IMO the unit is faulty. Any opinions or ideas? Anyone experience this?


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shazbatz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23470400
> 
> 
> Hello everyone. I have a sound issue with a used Anthem D2 I just purchased. When using HDMI sound signals (Blu-ray,HD cable box) i'm getting very weak to almost no dialogue. Other sounds do come in (movie music, etc..). Some stations on cable box do work fine and some don't. With Blu-ray/DVD i'm getting barely any dialogue.
> 
> HDMI video also seems fine. I checked the settings and reset to factory default, but still no luck. When the D2 if fed with another type of digital sound signal (coax,optical) it sounds perfect. I ran my CD player to it (coax) and it sounds fine with music. IMO the unit is faulty. Any opinions or ideas? Anyone experience this?


Usually all the movie dialog comes on the center channel. You should check if your center channel is not broken some where (speaker, center amp, d2 center channel).


You can usually swap the center channel with one of the front channel to check if one of them is not broken (like swap the 2 connections behind the D2 or on your multi-channel amp, or just the speakers).


CD audio are in stereo so the center channel is never used.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shazbatz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23470400
> 
> 
> Hello everyone. I have a sound issue with a used Anthem D2 I just purchased. When using HDMI sound signals (Blu-ray,HD cable box) i'm getting very weak to almost no dialogue. Other sounds do come in (movie music, etc..). Some stations on cable box do work fine and some don't. With Blu-ray/DVD i'm getting barely any dialogue.
> 
> HDMI video also seems fine. I checked the settings and reset to factory default, but still no luck. When the D2 if fed with another type of digital sound signal (coax,optical) it sounds perfect. I ran my CD player to it (coax) and it sounds fine with music. IMO the unit is faulty. Any opinions or ideas? Anyone experience this?



I think I remember this as a software issue way back, What software version are you using ? And have you checked to see if a later version is available ?

Also, Using the enter button to scroll through the different settings being played ensure the audio input and audio output are 5.1 channels including the center channel.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shazbatz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23470400
> 
> 
> Hello everyone. I have a sound issue with a used Anthem D2 I just purchased. When using HDMI sound signals (Blu-ray,HD cable box) i'm getting very weak to almost no dialogue. Other sounds do come in (movie music, etc..). Some stations on cable box do work fine and some don't. With Blu-ray/DVD i'm getting barely any dialogue.
> 
> HDMI video also seems fine. I checked the settings and reset to factory default, but still no luck. When the D2 if fed with another type of digital sound signal (coax,optical) it sounds perfect. I ran my CD player to it (coax) and it sounds fine with music. IMO the unit is faulty. Any opinions or ideas? Anyone experience this?



Presuming this is a used D2, you were wise to do the Reset Factory Defaults. Now, assuming you've not had time to do your own ARC run for the new unit, you should also go into Setup > Source Setup and turn Room EQ OFF in each Source definition you are using at the moment to disable the prior owner's ARC setup from confusing things. (Reset does not erase the prior ARC setup.)


Your problem is almost certainly in the Center channel (as explained in the posts above). So start by verifying that Center is working in the first place.


Begin by doing ANOTHER Reset Factory Defaults to eliminate any chance your personal settings are confusing things. If you lose video, make ONLY the changes in Setup necessary to get video back.


Now, go into Setup > Level Calibration. In the first line set the Test Mode to Manual and then scroll down the lines checking for presence of the test tones. In particular, make sure you are getting a test tone from Center.


If you are not getting a test tone from Center, double check that its amp is coming out of stand-by. Perhaps you don't have your amp Triggers wired properly or configured properly so that only the amp for the Left Front/Right Front speakers is turning on. (The Reset will have undone any personal changes you made in the Triggers table, so redo those now as needed.)


Next check that you are using the correct output socket for Center on the back of the D2. Check that you are using the Center-1 output in the top row of the set of output sockets and not Center-2 just below it. While you are at it, check the socket in use at the amp, and also check the speaker wiring for Center leaving the amp and at the back of the Center speaker.


If no easy answer found there, then power down and swap the Left Front and Center output plugs at the back of the D2. Power up and try the test tones again. Does the Left Front test line produce a tone in the Center speaker? Does the Center test line produce a tone in the Left Front speaker? If no output on Center speaker then the problem is external to the D2 (wiring, amp or speaker). If no output on Left Front speaker then the problem is in the D2 and we need to check further.


If that test says the problem is in the D2, then first check what firmware version you are running. Press Select once and it will show on the Front Panel Display. You should be running v1.33 in your D2. If not, download it from the Anthem site, connect up your Windows computer with a serial cable and install that firmware. Note the instructions: Do another Reset Factory Defaults prior to the install, and also pull the wall power for all of your attached HDMI gear (display and sources) prior to doing the install so that there's no chance you have a live HDMI connection during the install. The D2 firmware download can be found here:

http://archive.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/Downloads/DiscontinuedStatementProduct.html 


If still no luck after making sure you have the right firmware, then your D2 may need service.

--Bob


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23454774
> 
> 
> Turk 182,
> 
> Could you post your ARC charts?
> 
> There may be signs of the "Richard Syndrome" in your center channel charts.
> 
> 
> Tom



I would post my results but I have a MacBook and I had to use a friends laptop, so I don`t have my charts. I`m gonna try and bring home a work laptop and reARC it. Curious to know what Richard Syndrome is though.


I really thought my issue was in the discs I was watching, but even with problem discs no one seems to of had the same issues.


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23471631
> 
> 
> I would post my results but I have a MacBook and I had to use a friends laptop, so I don`t have my charts. I`m gonna try and bring home a work laptop and reARC it. Curious to know what Richard Syndrome is though.
> 
> 
> I really thought my issue was in the discs I was watching, but even with problem discs no one seems to of had the same issues.



Richard syndrome is where ARC has led to the discovery that there is a blown driver in the speaker. It could also point out that in some speakers that are made for biwiring, when a jumper is used it is loose and not making contact. Richard was a member where this was first discovered and now lives on is this forum.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shrike645*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23472007
> 
> 
> Richard syndrome is where ARC has led to the discovery that there is a blown driver in the speaker. It could also point out that in some speakers that are made for biwiring, when a jumper is used it is loose and not making contact. Richard was a member where this was first discovered and now lives on is this forum.



Many years ago when ARC came out and I installed it and used it for the 1st time.


It showed my Right Front Speaker was damaged. I did not know that prior to ARC.


I got the speaker rebuilt and all has been GREAT for many years.


I DID NOT KNOW it had a name --- *Richard syndrome*


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^True Richard Syndrome is when you've been happily enjoying your wonderful speaker for some time -- only to have ARC tell you it is actually broken.


There should be a distinct element of disbelief at first. As in, "How could it be broken? It sounds great!"










--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23472129
> 
> 
> ^True Richard Syndrome is when you've been happily enjoying your wonderful speaker for some time -- only to have ARC tell you it is actually broken.
> 
> 
> There should be a distinct element of disbelief at first. As in, "How could it be broken? It sounds great!"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



As YOU KNOW - *BOB* - I was one of the 1st to live through that.


Where did Richard come from - maybe it should be HANK Syndrome


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23472136
> 
> 
> As YOU KNOW - *BOB* - I was one of the 1st to live through that.
> 
> 
> Where did Richard come from - maybe it should be HANK Syndrome



I found that my jumper was loose through ARC.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Post #12900 of 4/8/08

http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/12870#post_13591930 


I think that's the first use, unless someone can find an older post. Obviously it would have to have been AFTER ARC shipped -- but I forget exactly when that happened.

--Bob


----------



## turk 182

I love this forum!


----------



## Shazbatz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23471417
> 
> 
> Your problem is almost certainly in the Center channel (as explained in the posts above). So start by verifying that Center is working in the first place.--Bob



This was the problem. I had the amplifier XLR inputs (L surround and center) crossed. Thanks for the help guys. Sorry to waste your time. I overlooked the obvious.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The fun thing about making silly mistakes is that they are easy to fix!










Or as I like to say, "Suddenly! As if by logic!"

--Bob


----------



## Shazbatz

So I just looked at the D2 manual and it looks like I could sit here all day and play around with this thing, but I don't have the time.


Can I just run the ARC from factory default mode, and get everything to sound decent without dealing with all the idiosyncracies of the D2?

I'm assuming it will get my two subwoofers set up properly as well. Firmware is up to date and Room EQ was disabled for all sources


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shazbatz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23474460
> 
> 
> So I just looked at the D2 manual and it looks like I could sit here all day and play around with this thing, but I don't have the time.
> 
> 
> Can I just run the ARC from factory default mode, and get everything to sound decent without dealing with all the idiosyncracies of the D2?
> 
> I'm assuming it will get my two subwoofers set up properly as well. Firmware is up to date and Room EQ was disabled for all sources


"Yes" to your question except for the two subs. There are instructions on how to use ARC in a two sub setup previously in this forum. Do a forum specific search and it will come up. It's very straight forward.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shazbatz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23474460
> 
> 
> So I just looked at the D2 manual and it looks like I could sit here all day and play around with this thing, but I don't have the time.
> 
> 
> Can I just run the ARC from factory default mode, and get everything to sound decent without dealing with all the idiosyncracies of the D2?
> 
> I'm assuming it will get my two subwoofers set up properly as well. Firmware is up to date and Room EQ was disabled for all sources



Start at * PAGE 1 *


----------



## Shazbatz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23474632
> 
> 
> Start at * PAGE 1 *



Very funny.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The tutorial post links found in the first post of this thread will cover some of the things you need to handle specially when you have more than one subwoofer.


For example, the Phase adjustment for each subwoofer has to be set (Manually) before you run your ARC Measurement, as ARC will hear the two subs playing simultaneously and their relative phase will affect the combined output.


Note that the Sub output jacks of the Anthem are not independent. They are fed the same signal. So ARC can not separately set up your two subs. It can only adjust their combined output.


Also, even though you have more than 1 Sub, you should set your Speaker Configuration to show "1 Sub". This setting affects how the Sub's volume trim line is processed, and the value ARC Uploads after producing its solution is selected expecting the "1 Sub" setting is in effect.


The dual Sub stuff aside, yes you can pretty much just run the ARC setup and enjoy its automated result. However you'll find a lot of discussion in here is on how to interpret the charts that ARC produces, and manual tweak ARC's automated solution to improve the result in various ways that depend on the specifics of your speaker and room.


In addition, there are settings you have to make on your own that affect the audio -- settings that ARC can't make for you. Besides the Sub phase choice (a setting you need to make on each Sub's own controls when you have more than one), you also need to specify your actual, physical speaker configuration, and manually enter the speaker distances.


Once you have your ARC solution installed, there will also be choices you need to make about things like which surround sound processing Mode (if any) you want to use at the moment.


The bottom line is that the full value of these Anthem pre-pros will only show if you do spend some time getting familiar with the choices they offer -- both for setup, and during playback.

--Bob


----------



## Shazbatz

Thank you Bob. This information was very helpful. Im looking forward to looking at some of the charts once i'm set up and have some free time.

Once ARC is complete: Do I have to set Room EQ back to ON for all the sources, or will ARC automatically do that?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shazbatz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23478688
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob. This information was very helpful. Im looking forward to looking at some of the charts once i'm set up and have some free time.
> 
> Once ARC is complete: Do I have to set Room EQ back to ON for all the sources, or will ARC automatically do that?



You have a D2, right? I'm afraid I forget what the V1.33 firmware does for that setting. After you Upload your ARC solution, go into Setup > Source Setup for each Source and make sure Room EQ is ON if the firmware left it OFF. Also, if you use Analog audio input for any Source, remember that you'll need to specify ANALOG-DSP so that the Anthem will re-digitize that Analog input for processing. Any Source set to use ANALOG-DIRECT audio input will bypass ARC processing because the audio is left as Analog and can't be processed.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shazbatz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23478688
> 
> 
> Once ARC is complete: Do I have to set Room EQ back to ON for all the sources, or will ARC automatically do that?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40890#post_23478694
> 
> 
> You have a D2, right? I'm afraid I forget what the V1.33 firmware does for that setting. After you Upload your ARC solution, go into Setup > Source Setup for each Source and make sure Room EQ is ON if the firmware left it OFF. Also, if you use Analog audio input for any Source, remember that you'll need to specify ANALOG-DSP so that the Anthem will re-digitize that Analog input for processing. Any Source set to use ANALOG-DIRECT audio input will bypass ARC processing because the audio is left as Analog and can't be processed.
> 
> --Bob



Bob Said he FORGOT the answer - the Answer is YES for Each Source


----------



## stormy

Well.....I just fired up my new AVM50V but I can't see the entire ANTHEM AVM 50V Setup menu. I know things are working because I can see my OPPO 103. I am trying just something basic like setting the time but I can't see the entire menu....I can see the single line info but no entire menu on my JVC RS-55 display...ugh...help please


----------



## AVfile

What happens to the screen when you enter setup? It might be an incompatible video output setting. Try setting one explicitly to values you know work (I.e. whatever the Oppo is sending) rather than "auto" for everything.


----------



## stormy

thank you for answering...my display was set to auto but i changed that to YCbCr(4:4:4). When I hit the MENU key on the remote all i see on my display is the single line info that you see on the AVM50V front panel. I believe I am seeing 720p60....very frustrating !


----------



## stormy

well a little work I set my display to YCbCr(4:2:2) and NOW I see the main menu....should be written in the manual I would think...well it is in mine now !!


----------



## AVfile

Do you have an AVM-50v 3D with video output mode set to THROUGH?


----------



## dmusoke


I'm so glad ARC supports data-rates up to 192 KHz but Audyssey down-samples everything to 48 KHz...

 



 

A review from Secrets of Home Theater:

 

Here's the interesting graph for our readers, and this isn't a problem specific to the AV7701, but to all current Audyssey receivers and processors. The DSP used by all of them to handle Audyssey processing requires that you down-sample the signal to 24 bit, 48 kHz, so all information beyond that is lost if you use Audyssey. So if you're playing back a Blu-ray disc with a 24/96 soundtrack, or listening to a lot of high resolution downloads, you might want to consider performing some A-B comparisons of Audyssey on and off to see which you prefer. I imagine for a lot of people, the benefits of room correction out-weigh the loss of some resolution, but I also think it is something that everyone can test themselves. Hopefully we will see someone implement a DSP that does Audyssey at 24/192, because from my discussions with Audyssey it can work at that sample rate, it is just up to the vendor to use a more expensive DSP to implement it.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Supertaint*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40590#post_23230167
> 
> 
> After installing the latest ARC software, it worked flawlessly on Windows 8.



If you could be so kind I would like to know if windows 8 recognizes the true volume of the test tune on your set up (based on a DB meter or verified on windows 7). For me running windows 8 this is not the case and the arc response graphs are in error. Anthem has been aware (I am on the list) of my problem for 2 1/2 months and to date I have not received a response whether it is reproducible at their end or not. I have asked for an update over 2 1/2 weeks ago with the response "we will check into it". It does run on windows 8 for me, but for sure not flawlessly.


It is a volume issue for me and one would think that a small program to transform my cal file could be an answer, most fixes come when they are out on the table. Windows 8.1 is out now as preview and more and more are now running windows 8 since it is faster than windows 7. I would say that if you run your arc setup thru windows 8 it may not be producing the correct results for up load and you may not be realizing the true potential of ARC.


Regards


----------



## stormy

well....i'm now trying to get the ARC mic recognized on my WIN 7 Lenovo laptop. I at least can now see the on-screen menu from the AVM50V using the previous video setting on my projector and I was successful in setting up my sat rcvr and was able to watch it eventhough I now want to run Quick Measure and see what my room looks like. However.....I initially had the ARC 3.0 disk but saw on earlier posts that it is now up to 3.0.2....So downloaded the latest version and copied my cal file to the directory as the Readme file instructs. But for some reason the laptop can see the mic is installed but it states the Windows Code 10 error which is windows generic complaint that it can't "start" the device. I have disabled all other recording devices as an earlier post on the forum described....I have uninstalled the ARC software and rebooted several times with no luck....the only other usb device I have on the laptop is a wireless mouse....so hopefully someone kind soul has the same experience with a Lenovo laptop and give me a hint or two...i'd hate to think I need to crank up an old WIN XP desktop !!!.....still plugging along ! I do have an AVM50V 3D


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Here's a support document from Anthem on dealing with Windows 7 problems using the ARC mic. Also make sure the USB cable is fully inserted at both ends. If this doesn't get you going then you may have a faulty mic or mic cable. Anthem Tech Support can help with that.


Note, with Windows it is always wise to reboot the computer after any uninstall or any install of the ARC software.

Win 7 ARC Setup.pdf 486k .pdf file


--Bob


----------



## stormy

Hello and thanks Bob for your response. I had downloaded the WIN7 ARC document you mention. What's unusual is that it installed the first time and when I began to run Quick Measure it told me there was a USB error and make sure the cable was plugged in. When I exited ARC and checked Windows reported the mic had an error and in fact didn't show up as a digital recording device. I am going to try this with another computer (non-WIN7 and Lenovo laptop) just to verify the mic and cable are ok. A few threads back in 2011 a user TJG55 had the same issue with a Lenovo and WIN 7. I believe he called Tech Support but did not mention if he found a solution.


Also the AVM50V 3D has one serial number on the case but reports another serial number when the unit powers up so I assume that is due to the 3D video board.


Also Bob I think you have some great suggestions and I appreciate you responding to me.



thanks !


----------



## stormy

Bob......another question.......when I look at my ARC 3.0 disk I find the mic cal file but I do not see another file that might have the s/n of my AVM50V. Is this true for ARC ver 3.0 and later ? I imagine a call to tech support tomorrow is in order. I was able to install the ARC software on a WIN XP desktop and is sees the mic so both the cable and mic seem okay....thanks again


----------



## jo5507




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40920#post_23482484
> 
> 
> Bob......another question.......when I look at my ARC 3.0 disk I find the mic cal file but I do not see another file that might have the s/n of my AVM50V. Is this true for ARC ver 3.0 and later ? I imagine a call to tech support tomorrow is in order. I was able to install the ARC software on a WIN XP desktop and is sees the mic so both the cable and mic seem okay....thanks again



I had the same question as I was setting up my D2V yesterday. ARC will retrieve the serial number when it communicates with your processor.


----------



## stormy

I thought so because I have no problem connecting with the processor, so I was hoping that it was reading what it needed. Now just to get this ARC mic issue solved !.....thanks for your reply...


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40920#post_23482728
> 
> 
> I thought so because I have no problem connecting with the processor, so I was hoping that it was reading what it needed. Now just to get this ARC mic issue solved !.....thanks for your reply...



Just what is your mic problem??


Just in case you don't know already , when the window pops up with your mic serial number in it you actually have to move the cursor over the line your mic appears in in click on it. Just hitting the 'OK' button in the bottom of the window will not work. I guess its for installers that have more than one mic serial number loaded on their computers and they need to choose the correct mic serial number to get the correct calibration file.

But even if only one mic serial number is listed, it still has to be chosen.


If you have already chosen and clicked on your mic, then this info will be of no help, but I just wanted to make sure you had moved your cursor and clicked on your mic serial number in the popup page in ARC.


Tom


----------



## stormy

Hello and thanks for the info. WIN 7 recognized the mic one time. I went through the WIN7 ARC pdf file and was able to do all that was instructed. I then started ARC and ran it manually to run Quick Measure. I am using the Keyspan adapter so there is no problem talking to the AVM50V 3D. I did run across what you mentioned but figured out when it told me to select the mic that matched the serial number that I needed to actually highlight that mic. Okay so once I did that and started Quick Measure, I got an error message that said to check for a bad connection on the USB cable or something to that effect. Everything seemed connected so I exited ARC. When I clicked on the audio properties Recording Device it said none was present and that is where I have been for today. I was able to check the mic and cable by installing it on an old desktop WIN XP machine so the hardware and cable are okay.


In WIN7 I have been disabling the Firewall and Virus Scan and still to no avail. I can uninstall ARC, re-boot, re-install ARC and in Device Manager I see an USB Audio Device with the Yellow error symbol and WIN7 gives the standard "Device Cannot Start (Code 10)" message. When I check on the properties of the mic and tell it to Update Drivers and point the the ARC 3.02 folder including searching sub-directories if memory serves it says the drivers are current.


I am thinking the maybe there is something in the Registry that needs to be deleted and maybe just uninstalling the mic doesn't force a new driver installation.


So I'll call Tech Support tomorrow and they will probably say "oh yea, we've heard of that so try this". I work with firmware guys and they tend to say that all the time







.....


Again, thanks to all who have been following my short journey. I am converting my theater from all analog to digital and am having some luck. Kind of like that new Joe Walsh tune Analog Man







...


mark


----------



## Guad5alupe

Looks like I am the viewer # 1. D2 looks good. Now I can't wait for my AVM30 upgrade.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40920#post_23483521
> 
> 
> Hello and thanks for the info. WIN 7 recognized the mic one time. I went through the WIN7 ARC pdf file and was able to do all that was instructed. I then started ARC and ran it manually to run Quick Measure. I am using the Keyspan adapter so there is no problem talking to the AVM50V 3D. I did run across what you mentioned but figured out when it told me to select the mic that matched the serial number that I needed to actually highlight that mic. Okay so once I did that and started Quick Measure, I got an error message that said to check for a bad connection on the USB cable or something to that effect. Everything seemed connected so I exited ARC. When I clicked on the audio properties Recording Device it said none was present and that is where I have been for today. I was able to check the mic and cable by installing it on an old desktop WIN XP machine so the hardware and cable are okay.
> 
> 
> In WIN7 I have been disabling the Firewall and Virus Scan and still to no avail. I can uninstall ARC, re-boot, re-install ARC and in Device Manager I see an USB Audio Device with the Yellow error symbol and WIN7 gives the standard "Device Cannot Start (Code 10)" message. When I check on the properties of the mic and tell it to Update Drivers and point the the ARC 3.02 folder including searching sub-directories if memory serves it says the drivers are current.
> 
> 
> I am thinking the maybe there is something in the Registry that needs to be deleted and maybe just uninstalling the mic doesn't force a new driver installation.
> 
> 
> So I'll call Tech Support tomorrow and they will probably say "oh yea, we've heard of that so try this". I work with firmware guys and they tend to say that all the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....
> 
> 
> Again, thanks to all who have been following my short journey. I am converting my theater from all analog to digital and am having some luck. Kind of like that new Joe Walsh tune Analog Man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> mark



It might be worth a try but here is way to repair the mic problem.

First uninstall *ALL* the audio devices showing up in Device Manager.


This is important

*Do not re-install or attempt to update the drivers.*

Reboot Windows with the USB cable for the Anthem mic plugged in.

Windows should now find all the sound devices if it is working correctly.

You may have to disable the other sound devices as described in the Anthem service bulletin provided by Bob a few posts before

Good Luck


----------



## stormy

Hello thestewman.....well I tried your approach exactly without success. When I check the Device and Printers it shows the ARC-1 mic but still with a problem. It said the driver is a Microsoft Dirver 6.1.7601.17514 with a date of 11/10/2010.....So I decided to take a different approach and disconnected the mic from the computer and selected another USB port and rebooted.....This time it found a USB Audio device with the green check mark so I thought this was progress just like the first time I installed the mic.

So I went through the WIN 7 ARC document that Bob provided and got to the end and rebooted....and the result is No Recording Devices Installed....again in the Devices and Printers it shows the ARC-1 but again with the same driver issue.


Is it supposed to use a Microsoft driver ?


The mic and cable are okay because they install on an old WIN XP desktop. There must be something blocking the mic. While stepping through the WIN 7 ARC document I can see that the mic is working but when I reboot it disappears.


I have called and emailed tech support but without success yet....maybe they will contact me tomorrow..


thanks for your suggestions !!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40920#post_23485972
> 
> 
> I have called tech support but without success yet....!!



They always answer the phone when I call.


Not after HOURS of Course.


----------



## stormy

I am on hold as I type.....no success so I left a message....thanks


----------



## AVfile

Anthem? It is a holiday in Canada today.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40920#post_23486044
> 
> 
> I am on hold as I type.....no success so I left a message....thanks



Stormy

When you deleted the Anthem mike and other USB devices and restarted Window it should have stated it had found new devices and asked you if you wanted to install them or

automatically installed them . Either way there should have hve been a message stating what Windows was going to do.

Usually you might need the disk containing the drivers at that point

Are you sure that Universal Plug and Play service and Windows Update are turned on ?


----------



## stormy

ah...just my luck...well on vacation this week so there is always tomorrow !!


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40920#post_23486140
> 
> 
> Anthem? It is a holiday in Canada today.



Yes

It is the birthday of Canada - Canada Day


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40920#post_23486156
> 
> 
> ah...just my luck...well on vacation this week so there is always tomorrow !!



Check my post above


----------



## stormy

when I deleted the devices and rebooted it automatically installed all devices except the Anthem mic because it said it had driver issues. this is when I changed USB ports and it 'discovered' a USB mic. this is just like the first time I tried to install it a couple of days ago. once it found this mic I went through the WIN 7 ARC setup pdf and saw the mic was working because I could see the level bar move when I spoke into it. As instructed I rebooted and.....no mic installed...bad driver....


something must be blocking it...


thanks !


----------



## jo5507




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40920#post_23486183
> 
> 
> when I deleted the devices and rebooted it automatically installed all devices except the Anthem mic because it said it had driver issues. this is when I changed USB ports and it 'discovered' a USB mic. this is just like the first time I tried to install it a couple of days ago. once it found this mic I went through the WIN 7 ARC setup pdf and saw the mic was working because I could see the level bar move when I spoke into it. As instructed I rebooted and.....no mic installed...bad driver....
> 
> 
> something must be blocking it...
> 
> 
> thanks !



That's frustrating when you get a new toy and want to play with it! My setup and ARC measurements over the last few days were trouble free, using XP on a laptop. My desktop with Windows 7 has "XP Mode" which I have never used. Perhaps that might be worth trying? I don't really know how it functions, but it will allow non 7 compatible programs to run.


----------



## stormy

thanks jo5507....i'm not a win 7 expert but I would think it needs to see the mic and driver on a basic level. I do know that you can run programs in different emulations but you would need to have basic driver communications with all devices such as mice, printers, etc before running any emulation modes...as you have found using XP i'm sure this is just a driver issue between this Lenovo laptop and THEIR version of WIN 7.


Eventhough I can't run ARC I can at least enjoy the prepro and my new OPPO 103 ...










I searched the forums and a couple of years ago someone had the same issues and contacted tech support but they didn't come back to the forum with the solution....I will try to bring that solution back


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40920#post_23486183
> 
> 
> when I deleted the devices and rebooted it automatically installed all devices except the Anthem mic because it said it had driver issues. this is when I changed USB ports and it 'discovered' a USB mic. this is just like the first time I tried to install it a couple of days ago. once it found this mic I went through the WIN 7 ARC setup pdf and saw the mic was working because I could see the level bar move when I spoke into it. As instructed I rebooted and.....no mic installed...bad driver....
> 
> 
> something must be blocking it...
> 
> 
> thanks !



Windows should have said it found a new device and automatically installed it


I just tried an experiment with a Windows 7 laptop that I use only to play DSD and HiREZ audio files. It has never been used for ARC or anything else. Everything is ti=urned off that you would not need except the NIC card is enabled to feed audio files from a server.

I plugged the Anthem mic into a USB port and it immediately said it found new hardware. It then installed it and drivers from the OS or on Microsoft's Driver web site.

Everything checked OK after that with new hardware named Arc 1

The drivers were the same as you stated above....Microsoft Driver 6.1.7601.17514

I would think it has to be your laptop or Windows 7 install.


Have you check to insure that Universal Plug and Play service and Windows Update are turned on


----------



## stormy

hello thestewman...i checked and both the universal Plug and Play and Windows Update services are running by looking in the Services tab under the Administrative Tools.


i also went out and made sure my WIN 7 was up to date.


When I check Device Manager and try to update drivers it says they are up to date. So I still think something must be sideways in the registry or something in the Realtek Audio Engine is blocking the full driver implementation...more to follow !!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sometimes the OEMs making these computers alter Windows in a way that's just not compatible. ARC depends on very little from Windows itself, and that check document covers that. But if the OEM has screwed up the device drivers (for their own hardware) there may be no option but to use a different computer. I.E., you'd have to disable the conflicting built in hardware.


Anthem tech support is your best bet if you don't have another computer to try.

--Bob


----------



## stormy

Hello Bob...I hope to speak to tech support today. I can see the mic in the Devices and Printers but it just won't load the driver. Windows tells me that I need to reload the driver but when I try it says the current driver is up to date. As I mentioned a forum member had the same laptop with the same issues two years ago so maybe tech support has seen this and either has a fix or as you suggest I will need to dig up my old WIN XP desktop. I am running WIN 7 Home Premium 64 bit.


thanks again for your time





Just spoke with tech support at 11:45am ET.....use WIN XP....can't work around this laptop's audio configuration....glad I still have an old desktop around










will give that a try....slightly frustrated


----------



## stormy

Well....was able to use an old WIN XP desktop and load all of the software. It recognizes the ARC-1 mic and I am able to run Quick Measure. So now it is off to phase adjust both subwoofers and run ARC. My subwoofers are two JTR passive Captivators that are driven by two Crest CA9 amps in bridged mono mode. I am using a Mini DSP 2x4 balanced preprocessor to adjust the phasing and/or any polarity changes I need to make....


well here goes...thanks to everyones advice on the struggles with WIN7 and my Lenovo laptop....


mark


----------



## joealbracht

I'm looking at acquiring a used D2v with the standard ears on its sides. Any easy way to get the standard ears off & swap in the rack mountable ears? thanks


----------



## obie_fl

I've swapped the ears between my D2v and original D2, it's pretty involved but doable. You have to take the cover off and partially remove the front panel if I recall correctly. Just take your time it's not all that difficult.


Speaking of which if anyone is interested in an original D2 with regular ears I have one for sale.


----------



## jo5507




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joealbracht*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23490556
> 
> 
> I'm looking at acquiring a used D2v with the standard ears on its sides. Any easy way to get the standard ears off & swap in the rack mountable ears? thanks



Sent you a PM.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23489105
> 
> 
> Well....was able to use an old WIN XP desktop and load all of the software. It recognizes the ARC-1 mic and I am able to run Quick Measure. So now it is off to phase adjust both subwoofers and run ARC. My subwoofers are two JTR passive Captivators that are driven by two Crest CA9 amps in bridged mono mode. I am using a Mini DSP 2x4 balanced preprocessor to adjust the phasing and/or any polarity changes I need to make....
> 
> 
> well here goes...thanks to everyones advice on the struggles with WIN7 and my Lenovo laptop....
> 
> 
> mark



The problem is not Windows 7 per se. I use a retail copy of Windows 7 (running on Mac hardware via Apple's BootCamp, and fully updated) and it works fine with ARC. It's whatever Lenovo did to mangle Windows 7 when they bundled it on that laptop.


Anthem has run into this before. Microsoft allows OEM's too much leeway in how they can modify Windows as bundled on specific computers. It's then up to each computer maker to QA such changes. The problems most frequently show up in device driver screw ups, but sometimes in the OEM's neglecting to install portions of Windows or even installing the wrong version of some portions (because they did their testing with a now-outdated version).

--Bob


----------



## stormy

I would agree on the 'modifications' to Windows by the OEM's. Unless they provide unique hardware 'tweaks' on average most laptops, at least the x86 variety are pretty much the same. I spoke twice with Anthem tech support. Once on my contact and then Pierre called back late in the day and he confirmed my hunch about Lenovo. So it was off to the old desktop and things ran smooth. It would be nice to know which laptops Anthem may have experience with that works with their hardware.



thanks


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23491378
> 
> 
> I would agree on the 'modifications' to Windows by the OEM's. Unless they provide unique hardware 'tweaks' on average most laptops, at least the x86 variety are pretty much the same. I spoke twice with Anthem tech support. Once on my contact and then Pierre called back late in the day and he confirmed my hunch about Lenovo. So it was off to the old desktop and things ran smooth. It would be nice to know which laptops Anthem may have experience with that works with their hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks



I can tell you both my Toshiba laptops work without problems with ARC.

And they are using Windows 7 Pro


----------



## jo5507

I recently acquired a D2V and have completed my first ARC runs. The curves look good and I'm happy with the results. While new to the Anthem I have been using Tact Room Correction for my 2 channel system about 10 years. Even in a dedicated room designed to try to optimize sound quality, I would not be without room correction. Now that the room has evolved to more theatre than just music, I was happy to learn after much reading that Anthem's system performed so well. So, I swapped out the Tact processor and digital amps for the D2V and a Parasound A51.


I've read many of the posts about the ARC correction range and the 5khz default and agree with Anthem's approach. The Tact system allowed full range correction with the ability to store 9 different user developed, preset curves. I spent many, many hours playing with various target curves for different types of music and always found that maintaining the general characteristics of my B&W N802's in the mid/high range was best for most music. It was always recommended by Tact and many users to focus on the bass region and generally follow the measurement curve for your speakers/room for mid and high range, with some users limiting the correction to 1khz and below.


Those of you who like to tweak may want to try _reducing_ the correction range rather than just increasing it beyond 5k. I wouldn't assume that more correction is necessarily better for your particular system and room. After trying several upper limits, I've settled on a limit of 2200 hz for now, and will experiment with both lower and higher levels over time. I'm using music that I know well as the main source to test the changes, both 2 channel and BD concerts. If _they_ sound the way I like, movies will be fine.

There are many variables at play in every room, and it's subjective as to what sounds good to you, so experiment if you have the time and inclination!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Welcome to the Cool Kids Thread! Yes, by all means post on how your experiments go. Also consider posting your ARC results charts (and Targets window).

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

I am trying to solve an issue which may or may not be the result of a Directv problem but I'd like to eliminate the possibility it's my gear and I'm not sure how to proceed.


I keep getting static pops in my audio. It's intermittent and it's worse some times than others. I know some have posted that they have similar experiences with Directv but a close friend of mine with a different set up and Directv does not experience the static popping at all.


Where would I begin ?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23492821
> 
> 
> I am trying to solve an issue which may or may not be the result of a Directv problem but I'd like to eliminate the possibility it's my gear and I'm not sure how to proceed.
> 
> 
> I keep getting static pops in my audio. It's intermittent and it's worse some times than others. I know some have posted that they have similar experiences with Directv but a close friend of mine with a different set up and Directv does not experience the static popping at all.
> 
> 
> Where would I begin ?



MY TWO CENT recommendation which is *NO HELP*

Is to DITCH DirecTV and Get Cable.










I LOVE CABLE --- the SPEED is AWESOME.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23492821
> 
> 
> I am trying to solve an issue which may or may not be the result of a Directv problem but I'd like to eliminate the possibility it's my gear and I'm not sure how to proceed.
> 
> 
> I keep getting static pops in my audio. It's intermittent and it's worse some times than others. I know some have posted that they have similar experiences with Directv but a close friend of mine with a different set up and Directv does not experience the static popping at all.
> 
> 
> Where would I begin ?



Switch to using Optical Digital audio from the DirecTV box. That SHOULD cure it, but if it doesn't you can be pretty certain it is in the content DirecTV is broadcasting. Odds are it is a flaky HDMI implementation in the DirecTV box.

--Bob


----------



## stormy

Here are my ARC plots....hope I am posting these correctly

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


Comments are welcome !!


I think my system has never sounded better especially coming from 100% analog.....Denon AVR-5800


thanks !


the subwoofer plot is of two subs


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23493552
> 
> 
> Switch to using Optical Digital audio from the DirecTV box. That SHOULD cure it, but if it doesn't you can be pretty certain it is in the content DirecTV is broadcasting. Odds are it is a flaky HDMI implementation in the DirecTV box.
> 
> --Bob


Thanks , Bob. I will try that.


----------



## wingnut4772

Ok, Bob, I tried optical audio out of the Directv box whole still using my HDMI for video and the picture went to crap. There is still a picture but the quality went way down. Why would that happen ?

Edit : Duh accidentally hit resolution on the box.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23493669
> 
> 
> Here are my ARC plots....hope I am posting these correctly
> 
> 
> Comments are welcome !!
> 
> 
> I think my system has never sounded better especially coming from 100% analog.....Denon AVR-5800
> 
> 
> thanks !
> 
> 
> the subwoofer plot is of two subs



Stormy,

Your charts look very good, but it will help the guru's here if you also post the 'targets' page also, since it shows crossovers. etc.


I am not a guru, but if your subs are up to it (that is to say, they have built in protection) you can set them to flat. Many here have found that helpful, especially with lfe in movies.


Just out of curiosity, what is your other gear and how do you have it connected?


Tom


----------



## Kris Deering

It looks like he has his subs set to flat already based on the target curve.


----------



## wingnut4772

Is there a noticeable difference with the subs set to flat? I have Hsu ULS15s and they have no built in protection so I just left ARC at the default.


----------



## thestewman

I think there is a hole at around 100 hz. where the subs drop off.

He needs to change the crossover of the subs to raise the crosssover.


----------



## Danne2

First post here...


Have had my D2v for some weeks now. Overall a good experience, but ARC is not doing what it "should" as I see it, when it comes to 0-200Hz.

I have dipoles 7.1 setup, set them as Dipole in the setup menu. 2 subs, middle of front wall and middle of back wall. Might add more later, seem like I have to due to room modes.

Room is very treated, but not absorption, almost diffusion only above 400Hz, and mostly membrane and panel (like helmholtz) absorption at lower frequencies. About 15ms ISD gap in sweetspot.

Unfortunately there is a dip at 300Hz I don't have a solution for now, need to investigate that further.


Running ARC, it sets Fronts XO to 90Hz, and sub at 90Hz. But that creates a big dip in FR (25dB) between 50 to 100Hz. If I set lower Front XO to say 60Hz, this is cured. But I can not believe how ARC can set it the way it does.

I would like to have the sub XO still at 90Hz, but ARC does not let me, it sets it to 60Hz when Front XO is 60Hz. I have raised sub cutoff to 160, but that does not raise the sub XO.


So, I'm quite dissapointed about the solution ARC is giving me, it sounds like crap in the bass, and that also reflects higher up. I created the Music config like I wanted it (above) and that sound much better at lower freq.

Anyone knows why this happens, the whole idea with ARC is kind of failing for me, I could just have a minidsp XO instead as it seems now.


I use REW and UMIK from minidsp and control measure (in sweetspot) every change I do.

I always have Movie config as ARC default, and do my changes in Music to easy comparison when listening and measuring.

Here is measurements with REW, showing with ARC Movie, and my changes done in Music config.

Also Targets showing my 2 changes of Front cutoff and sub cutoff (which did not have much affect unfortunately)


----------



## AV_mike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Danne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23494792
> 
> 
> First post here...
> 
> 
> Have had my D2v for some weeks now. Overall a good experience, but ARC is not doing what it "should" as I see it, when it comes to 0-200Hz.
> 
> I have dipoles 7.1 setup, set them as Dipole in the setup menu. 2 subs, middle of front wall and middle of back wall. Might add more later, seem like I have to due to room modes.
> 
> Room is very treated, but not absorption, almost diffusion only above 400Hz, and mostly membrane and panel (like helmholtz) absorption at lower frequencies. About 15ms ISD gap in sweetspot.
> 
> Unfortunately there is a dip at 300Hz I don't have a solution for now, need to investigate that further.
> 
> 
> Running ARC, it sets Fronts XO to 90Hz, and sub at 90Hz. But that creates a big dip in FR (25dB) between 50 to 100Hz. If I set lower Front XO to say 60Hz, this is cured. But I can not believe how ARC can set it the way it does.
> 
> I would like to have the sub XO still at 90Hz, but ARC does not let me, it sets it to 60Hz when Front XO is 60Hz. I have raised sub cutoff to 160, but that does not raise the sub XO.
> 
> 
> So, I'm quite dissapointed about the solution ARC is giving me, it sounds like crap in the bass, and that also reflects higher up. I created the Music config like I wanted it (above) and that sound much better at lower freq.
> 
> Anyone knows why this happens, the whole idea with ARC is kind of failing for me, I could just have a minidsp XO instead as it seems now.
> 
> 
> I use REW and UMIK from minidsp and control measure (in sweetspot) every change I do.
> 
> I always have Movie config as ARC default, and do my changes in Music to easy comparison when listening and measuring.
> 
> Here is measurements with REW, showing with ARC Movie, and my changes done in Music config.
> 
> Also Targets showing my 2 changes of Front cutoff and sub cutoff (which did not have much affect unfortunately)



This looks like a classic case of distructive interference between your mains and subs at the crossover frequency. Try setting the speaker distances for the mains as per physical distance measurements, and then vary the sub distance while using REW to perform sweeps, you should find that the severe dip changes significantly as the sub distance is changed. Just tune for maximum combined output.

Have you measured individual channels, and subs, to see if any particular one exhibits the dip on their own?

If the distance tweak works, you will find that the distance varies with the crossover value, that may explain why changing to 95Hz also eliminates the dip.

Regards, Mike.


----------



## Danne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV_mike*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23494818
> 
> 
> This looks like a classic case of distructive interference between your mains and subs at the crossover frequency. Try setting the speaker distances for the mains as per physical distance measurements, and then vary the sub distance while using REW to perform sweeps, you should find that the severe dip changes significantly as the sub distance is changed. Just tune for maximum combined output.
> 
> Have you measured individual channels, and subs, to see if any particular one exhibits the dip on their own?
> 
> If the distance tweak works, you will find that the distance varies with the crossover value, that may explain why changing to 95Hz also eliminates the dip.
> 
> Regards, Mike.



What do you mean with speaker distances as per physical measurements. I have in the setup menu put in the distances for all speakers. For subs added and divided by two. I have adjusted the subs individually with phase and looking with REW.

Actually the dip does not change a lot by moving the subs smaller distances a couple of feet, but I have placed them where they have the least dip in this region, same with Fronts.

I have measured every channel separately, and the dip is because both subs and fronts all have problems in this area, but by overlapping XO's it can be a good result.

So it's just not a destructive interference, even if that can contribute as well.


I have just trouble understanding why ARC didn't to like I did.


----------



## stormy

Here are my Targets and I know my subs could handle the lower frequency response. If I change the Targets do I just upload them or do I need to re-run ARC ?

 
 



Can I change that them to Flat in the Targets or in the AVM50V itself ?



thanks !


----------



## stormy

I am currently using the following equipment:


OPPO 103 Blu-Ray Player connected via HDMI

Wyred 4 Sound Mini MC7 Amp connected via Balanced XLR lines
http://www.wyred4sound.com/webapps/p/74030/117839/339145 


All of my speakers are JTR Speakers

The front's, center and rear's are Triple 12 HT's
http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/triple-12ht/ 


The side surrounds are JTR Single 8 HT's
http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/single-8ht/ 


I have two sub's which are JTR Passive Captivators but are no longer listed on his web site. The 1000 series is the closest to what I have w/o the built in amp
http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/captivator-1000/ 


I am using two Crest CA9 Pro-Amps to drive the subs in Bridged-Mono mode
http://www.crestaudio.com/products/browse.cfm/action/detail/cat/319/item/116225/number/CFA-CA9-AB/.cfm 


I am using a Mini DSP 2x4 Balanced as a preamp to the Crest Amps since they do not have any Phase or Polarity adjustments. I am not using any of the Parametric Filter or Crossover capability of the DSP. Just flat and letting the AVM50V do the crossover.
http://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-balanced-2x4 


Using 10ga. speaker wire and GLS Audio Banana Plugs
http://www.speakerrepair.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=locking 


The amps are all on their own 20A power circuits. The AVM50V, the OPPO, an XBOX and SAT Tuner are all powered via an APC Smart-UPS 1500.


My display is a JVC -RS-55U Projector using a Da-Lite 96" diagonal screen. I really need a new screen due to the lack of gain but that is for next year.


It has taken me over 2 years to assemble all of this and I am just now getting it all hooked up !


My room is in my basement and the size is approx 30'l x 15' w.


thanks for asking and hope this isn't too much info...


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23494740
> 
> 
> I think there is a hole at around 100 hz. where the subs drop off.
> 
> He needs to change the crossover of the subs to raise the crosssover.



Stormy's plots? I don't see that can you elaborate?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23494043
> 
> 
> Ok, Bob, I tried optical audio out of the Directv box whole still using my HDMI for video and the picture went to crap. There is still a picture but the quality went way down. Why would that happen ?
> 
> Edit : Duh accidentally hit resolution on the box.



Did this fix your static problem, I also get static during explosions and other high octane scenes?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23494972
> 
> 
> Here are my Targets and I know my subs could handle the lower frequency response. If I change the Targets do I just upload them or do I need to re-run ARC ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I change that them to Flat in the Targets or in the AVM50V itself ?
> 
> 
> 
> thanks !



After you have opened up the 'advanced' box (which you did as seen in your bottom pic) you just click on the ^ button to the right of the 'subwoofer high pass order' and change from 'auto' to 'flat'. Then click 'OK'. *Then hit the 'calculate' button*. You don't need to re-run ARC, but you do need to re-calculate. You need to re-calculate when any changes are done in ARC like speaker crossovers, 'room gain', 'max eq' or sub advanced settings.

Taking a screen shot of the targets page before and after will help you keep track of the changes you have made. If you like how the charts look you can then 'upload' to your processor.

If you don't like the changes, or don't remember the changes you have made, and want to go back to the original settings that ARC chose you can click on the 'auto detect' button and re-calculate.


All the changes are done in ARC. ARC will change them in the processor when you upload after making the change. The only speaker settings in your processor you need to put in are speaker distances.


Then you can listen and hear if you like the changes. If you like it , great. If not you can always go back.

Welcome to the wonderful world of ARC tweaking !!










Tom


----------



## stormy

thanks tom.....i changed the subs to flat, re-calc'd and uploaded. i will now sit back and listen a bit to see if i like it !




thanks


mark


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23495006
> 
> 
> Did this fix your static problem, I also get static during explosions and other high octane scenes?


I think it did. I was watching TDKR on HBO and didn't notice any popping. A guy on the thread devoted to that DTV issue said it didn't help him though.


----------



## wingnut4772

Stormy, what kind of subs do you have? Do they have built in protection ? ( sorry if I missed an earlier mention )


----------



## Kris Deering

Stormy keep in mind that the settings on the target page are not the actual crossovers for all channels. Many misinterpret that. After you have sent the info to the D2 look at the crossovers in the speaker settings page of the setup menu. I bet some (especially the sub) are different. Most will be the same though.


----------



## stormy

i have JTR Captivators (passive) and I believe they have protection.


thanks


----------



## stormy

thanks Kris. I will check that out !


----------



## Audiolic

Hi,

Has anyone heard anything from Anthem regarding a possible update to the publicly released AVM 50v software ?


I believe the public version is still v3.09 updated in August 2012. I believe there have been a number of pre-release versions since then.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40980#post_23498213
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Has anyone heard anything from Anthem regarding a possible update to the publicly released AVM 50v software ?
> 
> 
> I believe the public version is still v3.09 updated in August 2012. I believe there have been a number of pre-release versions since then.



Yes 3.09 is the last PUBLIC update.


Beta is at 3.09j dated April 24, 2013.


I have no CLUE about Public or Beta Releases.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Actually, they are up to v3.09l now -- that's "L" as in "Lucy" -- posted June 10 of this year. (I'm still on v3.09j myself, simply due to press of other stuff I'm doing.)


I really don't know what the delay is in declaring any of the recent "Test" releases as "Official". Usually, the hold up would be obvious -- some known issue already discussed here and still pending a fix.


But at this point, I don't know of any issues beyond the typical, "Gee, couldn't the HDMI handshakes be faster/better?", that's been bandied about here.


Anyway, here are the current Release Notes for changes since the current Official v3.09 release:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v3.09l beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed issue where Dolby Pro Logic IIx Music was not available for 2-channel 24/192 input.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09j beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed serial control issue where Zone 2 had no audio if powering on to tuner.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed AVM 50v issue where noise was present when playing 176.4 kHz source.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09h release candidate:
> 
> 
> 1. When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source was playing, a surround upmix mode couldn't be selected - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. False "No Input Signal" status info when receiving 2-channel input - fixed.
> 
> 
> 3. "Last Used" mode preset reverted to "None" under certain conditions - fixed.
> 
> 
> 4. Previous DTS changes now certified.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Output channel count was displayed incorrectly when 6-ch analog input was selected - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. Further DTS-required changes.
> 
> 
> Known issue: When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source is selected, a surround upmix mode can't be selected.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed bug where AVM 50v sometimes powered on with low volume.
> 
> 
> 2. DTS-required changes for pending certification. Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements.



For anyone who would like to try an update to the "test" firmware, just get in touch with Anthem Tech Support. Access is no big secret, but they do want it to come through them so they can make sure you understand "test" firmware is not finished yet, and may come with unpleasant surprises in your particular configuration, perhaps requiring you to roll back to the prior firmware.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23493669
> 
> 
> Here are my ARC plots....hope I am posting these correctly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Comments are welcome !!
> 
> 
> I think my system has never sounded better especially coming from 100% analog.....Denon AVR-5800
> 
> 
> thanks !
> 
> 
> the subwoofer plot is of two subs





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23494972
> 
> 
> Here are my Targets and I know my subs could handle the lower frequency response. If I change the Targets do I just upload them or do I need to re-run ARC ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I change that them to Flat in the Targets or in the AVM50V itself ?
> 
> 
> 
> thanks !





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23495005
> 
> 
> Stormy's plots? I don't see that can you elaborate?




Look at the charts the left front and right front rolloff starting at 100 hz. The sub starts to roll off well before 100hz.

On his targets the cutoff for the fronts are set at 85hz and the sub at 105hz.

I think that puts a hole in the sound.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Danne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23494792
> 
> 
> First post here...
> 
> 
> Have had my D2v for some weeks now. Overall a good experience, but ARC is not doing what it "should" as I see it, when it comes to 0-200Hz.
> 
> I have dipoles 7.1 setup, set them as Dipole in the setup menu. 2 subs, middle of front wall and middle of back wall. Might add more later, seem like I have to due to room modes.
> 
> Room is very treated, but not absorption, almost diffusion only above 400Hz, and mostly membrane and panel (like helmholtz) absorption at lower frequencies. About 15ms ISD gap in sweetspot.
> 
> Unfortunately there is a dip at 300Hz I don't have a solution for now, need to investigate that further.
> 
> 
> Running ARC, it sets Fronts XO to 90Hz, and sub at 90Hz. But that creates a big dip in FR (25dB) between 50 to 100Hz. If I set lower Front XO to say 60Hz, this is cured. But I can not believe how ARC can set it the way it does.
> 
> I would like to have the sub XO still at 90Hz, but ARC does not let me, it sets it to 60Hz when Front XO is 60Hz. I have raised sub cutoff to 160, but that does not raise the sub XO.
> 
> 
> So, I'm quite dissapointed about the solution ARC is giving me, it sounds like crap in the bass, and that also reflects higher up. I created the Music config like I wanted it (above) and that sound much better at lower freq.
> 
> Anyone knows why this happens, the whole idea with ARC is kind of failing for me, I could just have a minidsp XO instead as it seems now.
> 
> 
> I use REW and UMIK from minidsp and control measure (in sweetspot) every change I do.
> 
> I always have Movie config as ARC default, and do my changes in Music to easy comparison when listening and measuring.
> 
> Here is measurements with REW, showing with ARC Movie, and my changes done in Music config.
> 
> Also Targets showing my 2 changes of Front cutoff and sub cutoff (which did not have much affect unfortunately)





No Room Gain ?


----------



## Danne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40980#post_23499967
> 
> 
> No Room Gain ?



No room gain set, nothing I touched. I guess ARC can not set room gain, when it creates such a hole around 70-100Hz, it's already lacking so much in that area, so there's not enough to lift it up.


One thing I wonder what Anthem thinks about is mic positions when measuring with ARC. I know what's in the manual and what is the recommended guideline. But when I measure much tighter then recommended (about 1" from sweetspot) I get a much better response, and since I'm mostly concerned about the sweetspot I would like to measure this way. Why not do all measurements in sweetspot? that's where I listen..

When I did the new measurement, ARC set a room gain of about 1.8, and did not get the same dip at 300Hz, and not such a big bump between 1-2kHz :


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Follow the recommended guidelines for mic positioning. The spacing is needed so that ARC can distinguish inherent speaker output from changes due to room response (which vary differently by mic position).

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40980#post_23495641
> 
> 
> Stormy keep in mind that the settings on the target page are not the actual crossovers for all channels. Many misinterpret that. After you have sent the info to the D2 look at the crossovers in the speaker settings page of the setup menu. I bet some (especially the sub) are different. Most will be the same though.



The "Cutoffs" (seen in ARC's own Targets window) and the "Crossovers" (seen in the Anthem's Setup > Speaker Configuration > Bass Management menus) do represent two different things.


HOWEVER, in the current version of ARC the Cutoffs as set in Targets will always match the Crossovers ARC Uploads into the Anthem *EXCEPT FOR* the Subwoofer. The Uploaded Crossover for the Subwoofer is allowed to be different.



(FOR NEWBIES: If you decide you want to tweak a "Crossover" the way to do it is to make adjustments to the relevant "Cutoff" in ARC's Targets window, Accept that change, re-Calculate the ARC solution, and re-Upload that into the Anthem. No need to re-Measure.


In particular, you must *NOT* alter the Crossovers Uploaded by ARC into the Setup menu directly, as that will invalidate the ARC solution included in that Upload. If you think you have accidentally modified some of the stuff in Setup that ARC Uploaded (and don't have a good set of Saved User or Installer Settings), just connect the computer and re-Upload your existing ARC solution. No need to re-Measure.


If you lose track of what you've done tweaking in the ARC Targets window, the Auto Detect button in that window will restore values to ARC's original choices derived from the original, raw Measurements. To now use those restored values, of course, you would need to Accept those changes in Targets, re-Calculate (which will now use ARC's original Targets choices), and re-Upload. Again, no need to re-Measure.


Note that if you manually change the Cutoffs in Targets it is possible that ARC will not be able to create a good solution. ARC will do its best, but the ability to match speakers to sub will always be limited by the actual output capabilities of those. So check the resulting charts looking for problems.


You can also create problems even if ARC *CAN* make a clean solution. For example, raising the Cutoff/Crossover for Center too high will steer male voices to the Subwoofer -- not a good thing. The bottom line is that the more you deviate from ARC's automatic solution, the more care you should take to check that you haven't actually made things worse.


Finally, you can not force ARC to use a specific Crossover for the Subwoofer, as that would overconstrain the solution. ARC has to be able to pick the Sub's Crossover itself based on the Crossovers in effect for the main speakers and the actual capabilities of speakers and sub. Typically the Sub Crossover will be chosen close to the Crossovers for the three Fronts, even if its "Cutoff" is higher. This is normal. Note that LFE content is handle specially by ARC, so you are not losing higher LFE content frequencies if ARC assigns a lower "Crossover" to the Sub. The Sub's "Cutoff" is the thing to check for that. "Cutoff" for the Sub works kind of like "Max EQ Frequency" for the main speakers.)

---Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40980#post_23499952
> 
> 
> Look at the charts the left front and right front rolloff starting at 100 hz. The sub starts to roll off well before 100hz.
> 
> On his targets the cutoff for the fronts are set at 85hz and the sub at 105hz.
> 
> I think that puts a hole in the sound.



Re Stormy's charts: I think you may be getting confused by the roll in of Room Gain for the mains and the roll out of Room Gain for the Sub. He's got a full +4dB of Room Gain in this solution.


The charts look fine to me in terms of "coverage" -- i.e., no hole. Start by determining the "basic volume level" of the solution -- the flat portion of say, the LF chart to the right of the Crossovers. The hump near the Crossovers is due to the Room Gain, where the rise above the basic volume level to the peak of the hump will be his +4dB.


Now, ignore that hump and look at how, say LF descends back down to the left of it. Find the frequency where it hits the basic volume level of the solution. Do the same thing for the Sub to the right of its hump.


They both cross at about 85Hz, so no hole. Keep in mind the output of Sub and main speakers adds together as the Crossover kicks in.



Stormy, I see two things I'd probably try to tackle in your bass solution. First it looks to me like your Sub ought to be good up to 120Hz (which is pretty much the end point for LFE content), so I think i'd try raising the Sub's "Cutoff" to 120Hz.


Second, you have a sharp peak as the Sub drops down to 20Hz, which probably extends further below that. You can see that ARC has corrected about half of that, but not all. And that's even with it having tried to use a "flat" style of Targets line down there even though you have not selected "Flat" in its Advanced settings.


Typically this sort of peaking behavior at the lowest frequencies is due to what's called "Boundary Gain" -- basically the Sub's direct output is interacting with reflected bass from immediately adjacent walls.


I think you should spend some time with the Quick Measure Tool (ARC's Tools menu) and see what can be done to tweak the positioning of your two Subs to correct for that. At these frequencies, even inches matter. In fact, all that may be needed is to rotate the Sub in place a bit. Check this for each Sub separately -- i.e., just power off the other Sub. The Quick Measure tool will show you a chart, updated in real time, of the raw Measurement of a single speaker from one mic location. NOTE: Running Quick Measure discards the ARC solution in the Anthem, so AFTER you run Quick Measure, you need to either do a new ARC setup or re-Upload your existing setup.


If either Sub is in a corner, you can also try shifting it to an asymmetrical position (somewhat farther from one wall than the other). Or just move it further out from the wall(s). After adjusting your Sub positions, recheck their Phase setting and then re-Measure for real with ARC. While testing such stuff, it is sometimes helpful to tell ARC you have ONLY LF/RF and Sub configured. That will make the Measurement process run faster. When you are happy with the Sub results, then do a full Measurement will all your speakers.


After the bass stuff is happy again, we can revisit the higher frequencies, but there's nothing particularly nasty going on up there.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Danne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40950#post_23494792
> 
> 
> First post here...
> 
> 
> Have had my D2v for some weeks now. Overall a good experience, but ARC is not doing what it "should" as I see it, when it comes to 0-200Hz.
> 
> I have dipoles 7.1 setup, set them as Dipole in the setup menu. 2 subs, middle of front wall and middle of back wall. Might add more later, seem like I have to due to room modes.
> 
> Room is very treated, but not absorption, almost diffusion only above 400Hz, and mostly membrane and panel (like helmholtz) absorption at lower frequencies. About 15ms ISD gap in sweetspot.
> 
> Unfortunately there is a dip at 300Hz I don't have a solution for now, need to investigate that further.
> 
> 
> Running ARC, it sets Fronts XO to 90Hz, and sub at 90Hz. But that creates a big dip in FR (25dB) between 50 to 100Hz. If I set lower Front XO to say 60Hz, this is cured. But I can not believe how ARC can set it the way it does.
> 
> I would like to have the sub XO still at 90Hz, but ARC does not let me, it sets it to 60Hz when Front XO is 60Hz. I have raised sub cutoff to 160, but that does not raise the sub XO.
> 
> 
> So, I'm quite dissapointed about the solution ARC is giving me, it sounds like crap in the bass, and that also reflects higher up. I created the Music config like I wanted it (above) and that sound much better at lower freq.
> 
> Anyone knows why this happens, the whole idea with ARC is kind of failing for me, I could just have a minidsp XO instead as it seems now.
> 
> 
> I use REW and UMIK from minidsp and control measure (in sweetspot) every change I do.
> 
> I always have Movie config as ARC default, and do my changes in Music to easy comparison when listening and measuring.
> 
> Here is measurements with REW, showing with ARC Movie, and my changes done in Music config.
> 
> Also Targets showing my 2 changes of Front cutoff and sub cutoff (which did not have much affect unfortunately)



As already posted above, this looks very much like a Phase error in your two subs.


ARC can't see Phase error when it is building the solution since it does not hear the Subs playing at the same time as the mains.


Since you have two subs configured, you need to adjust their Volume and Phase (using the individual controls on each Sub), before you run your ARC Measurement. That's because ARC hears the two Subs playing together, and thus any error in their Phase relative to each other will be picked up. Note that you also have to set the distance for the Subs ahead of time, since Phase is a function of distance. Since there is only one distance setting, use the average of the two Sub distances, then go check Phase for each. If you also have a Polarity adjustment on each Sub, then check Phase with both Polarity choices for each sub and pick the Polarity/Phase combo that works best. Typically a Sub in the front of the room will work best with "normal" Polarity, and a sub in the rear of the room will work best with "inverted" Polarity -- just picture the direction of cone motion for a Sub turned around 180 degrees.


Polarity inverts the signal for all frequencies. Phase operates only near the crossover frequencies. By shifting the Crossovers you may simply be evading a Phase error that still exists.



It would be very helpful if you could post ARC's own charts, not just your REW chart. In the ARC View menu you can select whether it is displaying charts for the Movie or Music solution. Do continue to post your Targets window when posting ARC charts so we always have the charts and Targets together in the same post to avoid confusion.



If Phase error is not the answer, then we need to go back to basics and make sure there isn't something simple going wrong in your configuration.


First, you have two Subs, so the extra preliminaries mentioned above need to be done. Also, in your configuration in the Anthem, make sure you have "1 Sub" specified even though you have more than 1. The Sub Volume Trim value ARC Uploads is Calculated assuming you will always have "1 Sub" set.


Next, consider wiring. We need to know that you don't have anything complicated going on in your wiring. There should be only one feed line going to each Sub, and that should come directly from a Sub output of the Anthem. There should be only one feed line to each main speaker, and that should be originating as that main speakers output from the Anthem, going through an Amp channel, and then to that speaker. If there is anything more complicated than this going on -- for example if you have more than one feed line going to a Sub or main speaker, or if you have wiring connecting BETWEEN the Sub and mains or between the mains themselves, or if you have any other bass management device in the signal path, or anything other than a traditional power amp between the Anthem and the main speakers we need to know, as that will complicate things.


So for example, if your LF/RF speakers have powered woofers, and you are also running LFE lines to them in addition to your standalone Subs then that's a real complication.


And while you are at it, be aware that the HDMI output of the Anthem also carries audio. Double check that any built in speakers in your Display really are disabled so they aren't confusing the audio setup.


Next, for each Sub, make sure its internal Crossover is either disabled or cranked up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.


At this point it would be wise to spend some time with the Quick Measure Tool in ARC and see what the raw output of each speaker (and sub) looks like to the ARC mic at the various ARC mic locations -- which, as I said in the post above, should follow the ARC mic positioning guidelines. This will give you a better handle on just what ARC is seeing. The Measured curve in the ARC charts is an unweighted average of the different mic positions for each speaker. Comparing that to what you see in Quick Measure for each mic position will give you a better understanding of what ARC is trying to correct.


FOR EXAMPLE: If you don't see that dip you are worried about, then that means the dip is not "real". I.e., it really is an artifact of, for example, Phase error. If you DO see the dip, then some positioning experiments with the Sub or main speaker(s) are in order.


Also remember that the ARC mic must point straight up at each mic position, with the tip set at seated ear height, and away from reflecting/absorbing surfaces such as seat backs or walls.



Pushing the Sub Cutoff up to 160Hz is almost certainly wrong. But at this point we really need to see the actual ARC charts associated with a Targets window to get a better handle on what's happening.

--Bob


----------



## stormy

Hello Bob...great info as always. When I ran ARC for the first time I did just that...I just ran it 'cold' and only made the phase adjustments for my two subs. Both set in opposite corners of the front wall of my room and set up about 2" off the floor. (just in case if I would have any water in my basement !). The main speakers all set up on milk crates (the includes all mains, right, center, left and both rear speakers. the side surrounds set up slightly higher on speaker stands about 2' off the floor. I used the AIX Records Calibration Disk to adjust the phase using my SPL meter. I did go back and set the subs to 'flat' in the Advanced Tools, Re-Calculated and Uploaded the the AVM50V 3D. I listened to a few disks and still feel that the bass could use some tweaking. Plan to spend a couple of hours today following your suggestions and I'll see what develops...


thanks,

mark


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40980#post_23498293
> 
> 
> I really don't know what the delay is in declaring any of the recent "Test" releases as "Official". Usually, the hold up would be obvious -- some known issue already discussed here and still pending a fix.
> 
> 
> But at this point, I don't know of any issues beyond the typical, "Gee, couldn't the HDMI handshakes be faster/better?", that's been bandied about here.



The video output config is currently undefined when powering up "3D" models in pass-through mode. This results in two problems:

No audio or audio dropouts when display is turned off.
Unexpected video output format when entering SETUP menu, possibly incompatible with the display.


I'm told "they're working on it".


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40980#post_23499952
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the charts the left front and right front rolloff starting at 100 hz. The sub starts to roll off well before 100hz.
> 
> On his targets the cutoff for the fronts are set at 85hz and the sub at 105hz.
> 
> I think that puts a hole in the sound.


Sorry not seeing that it looks like ARC is just doing its crossover to me, you wouldn't want double frequencies at the crossover.

It would be interesting to see what ARC would do if he could get rid of that room suck out around 175hz on the LF and sub.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40980#post_23500607
> 
> 
> As already posted above, this looks very much like a Phase error in your two subs.
> 
> 
> ARC can't see Phase error when it is building the solution since it does not hear the Subs playing at the same time as the mains.
> 
> 
> Since you have two subs configured, you need to adjust their Volume and Phase (using the individual controls on each Sub), before you run your ARC Measurement. That's because ARC hears the two Subs playing together, and thus any error in their Phase relative to each other will be picked up. Note that you also have to set the distance for the Subs ahead of time, since Phase is a function of distance. *Since there is only one distance setting, use the average of the two Sub distances, then go check Phase for each.* If you also have a Polarity adjustment on each Sub, then check Phase with both Polarity choices for each sub and pick the Polarity/Phase combo that works best. Typically a Sub in the front of the room will work best with "normal" Polarity, and a sub in the rear of the room will work best with "inverted" Polarity -- just picture the direction of cone motion for a Sub turned around 180 degrees.
> 
> 
> Polarity inverts the signal for all frequencies. Phase operates only near the crossover frequencies. By shifting the Crossovers you may simply be evading a Phase error that still exists.



Just doing my semi-annual *"This is why we need multiple sub channels on the next processor"* post so Anthem doesn't forget.


----------



## Danne2

Hi Bob


Just want to say, just because I haven't posted 10000 posts here, does not mean I have not read 10000 posts.

First I want to ask, how can I make ARC displaying the Music charts? It shows Movie by default, not sure how to change that.


Anyway that has no importance here. I read your reply and I have checked everything you said, have read your earlier posts about this.

Have no polarity switch on the subs, but have adjusted phase with mic and REW to get as small dips as possible. Same with placement, (restricted to back and front of room) and have adjusted to get as good as possible. 1 Sub in the settings. Dipolar without powered woofers (Magnepan).

Subs and front connected as you say, no strange or extra connections, just XLR from the D2v.

I did read and double check everything before posting, used to fix these things by myself, but I can't get a grip of the ARC solution in this specific case.


I like to use REW instead of ARC to track changes, it's more user friendly and have more functions. But probably should try ARC Quick measure tool to see what ARC sees, since it's something strange.


Of course it can still be phase problems, I have thought about trying to switch polarity in the XLR going to the back sub, but I know it's not a good solution since it will give better response in the bottom end, but can get the midbass out of phase and which leads to energy cancelation and a thin midbass.


Attach the chars from ARC, targets (Movie is ARC solution), and response measured with REW (the big dip is the ARC solution)


----------



## stormy

I worked my two subs and rotated them and spent some time with the phase adjust. I also 'inverted' the output of one of the subs as well as added a 160hz roll off with w Linkwitz Riley 48db/oct filter. Looks like I have a bit of room oscillation around 40 hz or so. But the overall curve looks smoother. I hope to have some time to listen to a few selected Blu-Rays to compare the new setup. Attached are the new curves and targets...

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


Comments are welcome !!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Danne2,

Sure, stuff will get repeated that you already know. There's no way to know until it's stated and you confirm you've taken it into account.


To see the charts for the Music solution, go to View menu in the ARC application's menu bar and select Music. Movie charts show by default.


There's definitely something nasty going on in LF/RF at 70Hz. that's why ARC has pushed the Crossover up to 90Hz for them, to avoid that region of their output. That's also a reason why ARC is seeing no Room Gain, as the higher output down there is interrupted by the dip in each of them


(There's also the extremely poor bass output of the Rears.)


Meanwhile the combined output of the 2 SUBs looks fine through that region, so they OUGHT to be able to cover just fine for LF/RF through that region in ARC's original solution. That this isn't happening is a mystery, it's almost as if ARC isn't functioning when you test the Movie solution. A Phase error may explain it, but my first reaction would be to double check there isn't some simple cockpit error going on here. I.e., if you are using a separate Source definition for testing the Movie and the Music solution, make sure Room EQ = ON is set for the Movie solution's Source, and if REW is using Analog audio for its test signal, make sure that ANALOG-DSP is set for the audio input of that Source (not ANALOG-DIRECT).

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke


stormy:

 

Silly question ... but why do you have to use an external Linkwitz-Riley lowpass filter and at such steep slopes at that???







Remember that ARC has several filters for the subs as well and these are working in addition to your steep external filter







. Your sub probably has a wider frequency extension but your external filter is making ARC's solution very non-optimal. The LR filter is unnecessary since ARC does the filtering and sets optimal slopes itself plus other stuff as well.

 

Just my 2 cents....


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Agreed. Stormy all that higher frequency output showing in the Sub Measurements is already being discarded by ARC as part of its solution. You don't need to worry about any of that. Check the green Calculated curve for Sub in your original set of charts.


Also, you've set the Sub Cutoff to 125Hz. There's no point in setting that above 120Hz as that's the upper limit of LFE for all practical purposes and the Sub won't be getting any steered bass up there from other speakers. Raising Sub Cutoff diverts correction resources to handle up there, which leaves less for correcting the important part of the Sub solution. I suggest you try 120Hz instead.


Your fixes re sub positioning do seem to have tamed the Boundary Gain peaking down around 20Hz. Good job!

--Bob


----------



## stormy

thanks to all for the hints.not being completely familiar with ARC I wasn't sure how it handled the higher freq. I will remove the LR filter and change the sub cutoff to 120 and re-calc, upload and give it a go. My back is glad that the Boundary Gain looks better !!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stormy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40980#post_23501968
> 
> 
> thanks to all for the hints.not being completely familiar with ARC I wasn't sure how it handled the higher freq. I will remove the LR filter and change the sub cutoff to 120 and re-calc, upload and give it a go. My back is glad that the Boundary Gain looks better !!



Stormy, assuming that filter was in place when you did your most recent Measurement (and it sure looks like it from the Sub chart), you will need to re-Measure after taking it out of the signal path.

--Bob


----------



## stormy

It was in place and I had planned to re-measure tomorrow and then sit back and listen for a while


----------



## lotron

Hello


Question about 24/192 Files


I use a "Pro-Ject Stream Box DS 24bit/192 kHz highend audio streaming client " with my Statement D2.

The Coaxial-digital output from the Streamer is connected to the D2 ( i dont use the RCA outputs from the Streamer)

Everything worked fine with mp3, m4a, flac 24/96.

Today I wanted listen to high res music in 24/192, the D2 Display showed "DIGITAL" instead "PCM" and the D2 was dead silent.


Is the D2 able to playback 24/192 flac via Coaxial Digital input?



thanks,

Thomas


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If you really mean an original "D2" then the answer is no. It tops out at 96KHz. The newer D2v CAN handle 192KHz via HDMI, but I'm not sure it can handle that on S/PDIF inputs. Email Anthem Tech Support to check.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lotron*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40980#post_23502159
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> Question about 24/192 Files
> 
> 
> I use a "Pro-Ject Stream Box DS 24bit/192 kHz highend audio streaming client " with my Statement D2.
> 
> The Coaxial-digital output from the Streamer is connected to the D2 ( i dont use the RCA outputs from the Streamer)
> 
> Everything worked fine with mp3, m4a, flac 24/96.
> 
> Today I wanted listen to high res music in 24/192, the D2 Display showed "DIGITAL" instead "PCM" and the D2 was dead silent.
> 
> 
> Is the D2 able to playback 24/192 flac via Coaxial Digital input?
> 
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Thomas



With a D2 and 24/192 FLAC audio files you will need to use the single ended or balanced analog output of the streamer and sett the volume output switch on the rear to fixed.

Adjust the D2 analog input in setup so you do not reach clipping

Set the D2 to Analog Direct not DSP and use the D2 volume control

Sit back and enjoy


----------



## Shazbatz

Can someone explain what the deal is with the D2 video board colors?


I'm reading that the red video boards have less HDMI issues. The board in my D2 is greyish/black colored. I did notice that the HDMI switching can be a little slow when I switch cable channels. Is this an issue with my board type/color?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ No. It's probably due more to the HDMI implementation in your Cable TV box. Some boxes are slow even when using Component Video when the broadcast resolution changes as you change channels.

--Bob


----------



## Shazbatz

Thanks for the info Bob. So with the exception of color, i'm assuming the boards are made with the same specifications. After researching this some more, it looks like the only issue with board colors was some firmware update problems with the green ones. I guess I have nothing to worry about since mine shipped with V1.33


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shazbatz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41010#post_23503124
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info Bob. So with the exception of color, i'm assuming the boards are made with the same specifications. After researching this some more, it looks like the only issue with board colors was some firmware update problems with the green ones. I guess I have nothing to worry about since mine shipped with V1.33



Over the history of the product, different boards were made to adjust to various changes in parts availability. From a user perspective, the functionality is the same. There was also a point where Anthem switched to a different power supply -- again a rolling change. Some older video boards won't work with the newer power supply. The color of the boards can also be a bit misleading as some colors were re-used. I don't recall any issues with firmware updates related to specific board production runs.


All of this is quite normal for a product that is in continuous production for as long as these Anthem pre-pro models. All that matters is that you have current firmware installed, not which production runs of the hardware components make up your particular unit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lotron*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40980#post_23502159
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> Question about 24/192 Files
> 
> 
> I use a "Pro-Ject Stream Box DS 24bit/192 kHz highend audio streaming client " with my Statement D2.
> 
> The Coaxial-digital output from the Streamer is connected to the D2 ( i dont use the RCA outputs from the Streamer)
> 
> Everything worked fine with mp3, m4a, flac 24/96.
> 
> Today I wanted listen to high res music in 24/192, the D2 Display showed "DIGITAL" instead "PCM" and the D2 was dead silent.
> 
> 
> Is the D2 able to playback 24/192 flac via Coaxial Digital input?
> 
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Thomas





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40980#post_23502182
> 
> 
> ^ If you really mean an original "D2" then the answer is no. It tops out at 96KHz. The newer D2v CAN handle 192KHz via HDMI, but I'm not sure it can handle that on S/PDIF inputs. Email Anthem Tech Support to check.
> 
> --Bob



For the newer D2v, I got curious about this and just tried it with a 2.0 FLAC 192KHz 24-bit test file played off a USB stick in my OPPO 105. Using Optical Digital output from the 105 (with its S/PDIF output rate limit set to 192KHz), the D2v does indeed receive and play the resulting 192KHz stereo LPCM Optical Digital input without problems.


So the limitation to 96KHz will be only for the older, original D2 and AVM 50 pre-pros.



Note that even on the D2v, if the track you are playing is copy protected -- as from a Blu-ray disc -- you won't be able to play it at high bit-rate over S/PDIF connections. But that's a limit imposed by the licensing rules for the Source device.


So for example if you play the 2.0 LPCM 192KHz 24-bit track from 2L's "The Nordic Sound", Blu-ray, via HDMI, you will get 2.0 LPCM 192KHz 24-bit input.


But if you play it via Optical Digital you will get the "compatibility track", which is all that Blu-ray licensing allows for S/PDIF output -- i.e., 48KHz.

--Bob


----------



## stormy

I re-ran ARC this morning w/o any add'l filtering. I then changed the target for the sub to 120 hz, re-calc'd and then uploaded. Here is the resultant chart on just the sub only....

 



This seems to be the best curve so far considering the room does not have any type of bass treatment. Standard suspended ceiling and paneling !



thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ No problems with that! If the rest of the charts look as good you should be in great shape.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

So......am I missing anything by not putting my sub to flat? Anything truly discernible ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Do you have a sub that's good down BELOW 20Hz? And with its own internal protection against frequencies too low for it to handle?


The bass down there is felt, not heard. As important as whether the sub is capable at all down there is whether it is properly sized for the room. It has to huff a lot of air to pressurize the room for frequencies that low.


For the most part, bass that low in frequency won't be found in music. But it WILL be found in movies. Reproducing bass that low may also reveal issues in your room -- resonances or loose fittings that cause buzzes and rattles.


But yeah, if the sub can handle it, then it's worth a try.

--Bob


----------



## lotron




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40980#post_23502182
> 
> 
> ^ If you really mean an original "D2" then the answer is no. It tops out at 96KHz. The newer D2v CAN handle 192KHz via HDMI, but I'm not sure it can handle that on S/PDIF inputs. Email Anthem Tech Support to check.
> 
> --Bob



Hello

It is a original D2 ( not a D2V). Now I know why it´s not working. I´m very happy with the D2, so i can live with this little limitation very well.

On the D2 Faceplate is a labeling " 24/192 Upsampling" so i thought it might work.



Thomas


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41010#post_23502697
> 
> 
> With a D2 and 24/192 FLAC audio files you will need to use the single ended or balanced analog output of the streamer and sett the volume output switch on the rear to fixed.
> 
> Adjust the D2 analog input in setup so you do not reach clipping
> 
> Set the D2 to Analog Direct not DSP and use the D2 volume control
> 
> Sit back and enjoy





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lotron*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41010#post_23503495
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> It is a original D2 ( not a D2V). Now I know why it´s not working. I´m very happy with the D2, so i can live with this little limitation very well.
> 
> On the D2 Faceplate is a labeling " 24/192 Upsampling" so i thought it might work.
> 
> 
> 
> Thomas


Tom


Above I provided away around the 96hz limitation. Since we are talking about playing 2 channel stereo,which does not contain any LFE, playing it via Analog Direct will be very beneficial in the quality of the sound. With the high end music player you are using I encourage you to try it.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41010#post_23503260
> 
> 
> 
> For the newer D2v, I got curious about this and just tried it with a 2.0 FLAC 192KHz 24-bit test file played off a USB stick in my OPPO 105. Using Optical Digital output from the 105 (with its S/PDIF output rate limit set to 192KHz), the D2v does indeed receive and play the resulting 192KHz stereo LPCM Optical Digital input without problems.
> 
> 
> So the limitation to 96KHz will be only for the older, original D2 and AVM 50 pre-pros.
> 
> 
> 
> Note that even on the D2v, if the track you are playing is copy protected -- as from a Blu-ray disc -- you won't be able to play it at high bit-rate over S/PDIF connections. But that's a limit imposed by the licensing rules for the Source device.
> 
> 
> So for example if you play the 2.0 LPCM 192KHz 24-bit track from 2L's "The Nordic Sound", Blu-ray, via HDMI, you will get 2.0 LPCM 192KHz 24-bit input.
> 
> 
> But if you play it via Optical Digital you will get the "compatibility track", which is all that Blu-ray licensing allows for S/PDIF output -- i.e., 48KHz.
> 
> --Bob



Bob


I would also like to encourage you and other Anthem owners to try some HiREz audio playback files other than CD, BluRay or other optical discs. This is easily done since you have an OPPO 105 that has the ESS Sabre 9018 DAC.

You can download files from various sites that can be found at http://dsd-guide.com/ or I really like the 2L site here at the 2L HiRes Download - test bench 

Download them to a USB thumb drive or from a computer on the same network as your OPPO

I recommend you try the OPPO analog outputs into the D2v and use Analog Direct in the D2v to eliminate any digital conversions of these pristine audio files.

And you probably already know that OPPO has provided a recent firmware update and can now play Multichannel DSD audio.


Stew


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ My speaker configuration is specifically designed to have the main speakers supported by the subwoofer. That means high quality bass management is fundamental.


So I always use ARC -- even for Analog audio sources.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41010#post_23503629
> 
> 
> ^ My speaker configuration is specifically designed to have the main speakers supported by the subwoofer. That means high quality bass management is fundamental.
> 
> 
> So I always use ARC -- even for Analog audio sources.
> 
> --Bob



Understandably that is a good thing in your speaker setup situation.


So since you always enjoy experimenting with new ideas change my suggestion and use Analog DSP with the analog outputs of the OPPO.


Stew


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Oh, well that I do!


As a Beta Tester for the OPPO 105 I cycle between ALL the available types of output from it on a regular schedule -- even S/PDIF -- for both testing and for normal viewing.


Remember, if you use Stereo Analog input as ANALOG-DSP, also go into Setup in the D2v and raise the sampling rate for re-digitization to 96KHz. (For multi-channel Analog input, it is already there by default.)

--Bob


----------



## chileboy

Getting ready to take the plunge for an Oppo BDP-103 - wasn't sure which forum to post this in (especially since Bob frequents both), but this Anthem thread has become my home.


Am I better off using the video processing in the Oppo vs my AVM50? I'm thinking the Oppo is more advanced. Also, will it video-process an external HDMI source (e.g., my STB?)


I'm planning on using the Anthem (w/ factory ARC) for all my audio processing, so if I will be using the Oppo for video processing, I'll connect HDMI1 to the display and HDMI2 to the Anthem.


Thanks,


- Mark


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41010#post_23503436
> 
> 
> ^ Do you have a sub that's good down BELOW 20Hz? And with its own internal protection against frequencies too low for it to handle?
> 
> 
> The bass down there is felt, not heard. As important as whether the sub is capable at all down there is whether it is properly sized for the room. It has to huff a lot of air to pressurize the room for frequencies that low.
> 
> 
> For the most part, bass that low in frequency won't be found in music. But it WILL be found in movies. Reproducing bass that low may also reveal issues in your room -- resonances or loose fittings that cause buzzes and rattles.
> 
> 
> But yeah, if the sub can handle it, then it's worth a try.
> 
> --Bob


I have 5 Hsu Uls15s that are capable of going below 20 but do not have their own internal protection.


----------



## obie_fl

^ I'm surprised Dr Hsu would design a sub that didn't protect it self especially one flat to 16hz. Have you checked with them?


----------



## wingnut4772

I did a few months ago and I asked him about any limitations. I was trying to find the email but I cannot. He said something to the effect that it would even attempt to play 5hz ( at some level ) and that there was no built in protection.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Then do *NOT* use Flat as there's potential to damage the subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

That sucks. I hate to think I'm missing out


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41010#post_23504589
> 
> 
> ^ Then do *NOT* use Flat as there's potential to damage the subwoofer.
> 
> --Bob



Would the flat setting be OK with Paradigm sub 25?


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41010#post_23505852
> 
> 
> Would the flat setting be OK with Paradigm sub 25?


Yes, there's no problem with using the Flat Setting with the Paradigm Sub 25.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41010#post_23505055
> 
> 
> That sucks. I hate to think I'm missing out



You might want to contact and confirm the power and frequency handling capabilities. I know Dr Hsu and he designs the subs with a lot of power handling and few restrictions.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*"Test" Firmware V3.10 -- a "Release Candidate" -- now on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page*


Anthem has posted "test" firmware v3.10 for the D2v and AVM 50v (including /3D variants) on their password protected download page. This one is marked as a "Release Candidate", meaning there's a good chance it will become the "Official" firmware release shortly, unless new issues are spotted and reported soon.


Release notes for changes since the prior, Official release (v3.09) now read as follows:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v3.10 release candidate
> 
> 
> 1. Rotating knob very quickly caused front panel display to freeze - fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09l beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed issue where Dolby Pro Logic IIx Music was not available for 2-channel 24/192 input.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09j beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed serial control issue where Zone 2 had no audio if powering on to tuner.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed AVM 50v issue where noise was present when playing 176.4 kHz source.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09h release candidate:
> 
> 
> 1. When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source was playing, a surround upmix mode couldn't be selected - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. False "No Input Signal" status info when receiving 2-channel input - fixed.
> 
> 
> 3. "Last Used" mode preset reverted to "None" under certain conditions - fixed.
> 
> 
> 4. Previous DTS changes now certified.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Output channel count was displayed incorrectly when 6-ch analog input was selected - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. Further DTS-required changes.
> 
> 
> Known issue: When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source is selected, a surround upmix mode can't be selected.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed bug where AVM 50v sometimes powered on with low volume.
> 
> 
> 2. DTS-required changes for pending certification. Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements.




Now, even though this is a "Release Candidate", do keep in mind that it is not quite Official YET, and thus may still come with unpleasant surprises perhaps requiring you to roll back to prior firmware. Do not install "test" firmware unless you are OK with that.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40980#post_23500785
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40980#post_23498293
> 
> 
> I really don't know what the delay is in declaring any of the recent "Test" releases as "Official". Usually, the hold up would be obvious -- some known issue already discussed here and still pending a fix.
> 
> 
> But at this point, I don't know of any issues beyond the typical, "Gee, couldn't the HDMI handshakes be faster/better?", that's been bandied about here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video output config is currently undefined when powering up "3D" models in pass-through mode. This results in two problems:
> 
> No audio or audio dropouts when display is turned off.
> Unexpected video output format when entering SETUP menu, possibly incompatible with the display.
> 
> 
> I'm told "they're working on it".
Click to expand...


I don't see this mentioned in the Change List for the new, v3.10 firmware "Release Candidate". Sometimes fixes get inserted without being mentioned in the Change List. You may want to install the "test" v3.10 and check this one, and/or get in touch with Anthem on the status of it.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Installed "test" firmware v3.10 (Release Candidate). No problems. Re-Uploaded my existing ARC solution (as is my usual practice).


It passes all my initial "sanity" checks.

--Bob


----------



## Audiolic

Great news, thanks Bob !!


----------



## wingnut4772

I shot Hsu Support an email just to verify and they said it was better to choose the default setting where the frequencies roll off. :-/


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You are not really missing anything. Protection is implemented in subwoofers by a similar sort of roll off. It's needed to keep low frequency bursts in the content from bottoming the cone. That's why ARC includes it by default. The problem is even worse if the sub is not really designed to operate that low in frequency.


If you know your Sub is capable of reproducing frequencies that low (e.g., is a THX Ultra II labeled subwoofer) AND has its own, built-in protection, then the FLAT advanced option lets the sub's built-in rolloff do the job. But if the answer to either of those questions is "No", then it is appropriate and normal to let ARC do the roll off down there. SOMEBODY needs to do it. Either way, the very lowest frequencies still get attenuated before the cone motor is asked to reproduce them.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

O


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23509514
> 
> 
> ^ You are not really missing anything. Protection is implemented in subwoofers by a similar sort of roll off. It's needed to keep low frequency bursts in the content from bottoming the cone. That's why ARC includes it by default. The problem is even worse if the sub is not really designed to operate that low in frequency.
> 
> 
> If you know your Sub is capable of reproducing frequencies that low (e.g., is a THX Ultra II labeled subwoofer) AND has its own, built-in protection, then the FLAT advanced option lets the sub's built-in rolloff do the job. But if the answer to either of those questions is "No", then it is appropriate and normal to let ARC do the roll off down there. SOMEBODY needs to do it. Either way, the very lowest frequencies still get attenuated before the cone motor is asked to reproduce them.
> 
> --Bob


Ahhhhhh, that was like a nice hug. I feel better now.


----------



## Audiolic

I'm using a HDMI splitter on the input between my CableTV and AVM 50v, as I don't always want to run CableTV via the AVM 50v. I have however noticed that the HDMI handshake with the AVM 50v is often problematic. Are there any particular HDMI splitter brands that work more seamlessly with the AVM 50v ?


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23518591
> 
> 
> I'm using a HDMI splitter on the input between my CableTV and AVM 50v, as I don't always want to run CableTV via the AVM 50v. I have however noticed that the HDMI handshake with the AVM 50v is often problematic. Are there any particular HDMI splitter brands that work more seamlessly with the AVM 50v ?



Is the handshake fine without the splitter and then problematic with the splitter? I just want to be clear. What splitter are you currently using? The other thing--and I'm not the HDMI expert, just another frustrated user--is that the issue may be at the display level. Once you start adding things to the HDMI chain debugging isn't always logical.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23518591
> 
> 
> I'm using a HDMI splitter on the input between my CableTV and AVM 50v, as I don't always want to run CableTV via the AVM 50v. I have however noticed that the HDMI handshake with the AVM 50v is often problematic. Are there any particular HDMI splitter brands that work more seamlessly with the AVM 50v ?



Explain a bit more on why you would take the AVM 50v out of the chain.


----------



## Audiolic

Yes, without the splitter, the handshake is fine. It's a Digitech HDMI splitter. I doubt if the problem lies at the display level, as a restart of the HDMI splitter normally fixes the problem.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Over the past year, I think users have been reporting the most Joy with HDMI splitters and switches from Monoprice (an AVS Forum sponsor). The other common source for such stuff is Gefen.


Keep in mind that if you impose a "splitter" -- i.e., not a "switch" -- then the Cable box has to deal with the HDMI fan-out protocol. Which means it has to set up both sides of the HDMI path and deal with any conflict between what the two sides are willing to accept for audio/video formats. (The Source device implements the HDMI handshake for the entire signal path.) It wouldn't surprise me in the least to discover there are Cable boxes out there which just throw up their hands in despair when faced with this task.


NOW, if your Display happens to be of the type that shuts down any HDMI sockets which are not currently selected for input, and if you remember to turn off the Anthem when you are not using it, then the splitter will see only one live output connection at a time -- so no fan-out. But the Cable box STILL has to deal with repeater processing in the handshake (first to the "splitter') and then to the Anthem (or Display) THROUGH the "splitter". And yep, in the past Cable boxes have screwed this up, too. Indeed when the Anthem is in the path, this has to be done twice as the Cable box also needs to handshake with the Display -- through BOTH the splitter and the Anthem.


Anyway, whichever splitter you get may have "smarts" that try to fool the Cable box into thinking the connection is simple. And perhaps those "smarts" aren't quite so smart, which is why power cycling the splitter "fixes" things.


In short, there is no such thing as "simple" when it comes to HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23520201
> 
> 
> Yes, without the splitter, the handshake is fine. It's a Digitech HDMI splitter. I doubt if the problem lies at the display level, as a restart of the HDMI splitter normally fixes the problem.



Audiolic


Why are you taking the Anthem AVM 50v out of the system between the cable box and the display ?


----------



## Audiolic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23520392
> 
> 
> Audiolic
> 
> 
> Why are you taking the Anthem AVM 50v out of the system between the cable box and the display ?


Thestewman,

The quick answer is personal preference.


----------



## Audiolic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23520371
> 
> 
> ^ Over the past year, I think users have been reporting the most Joy with HDMI splitters and switches from Monoprice (an AVS Forum sponsor). The other common source for such stuff is Gefen.
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that if you impose a "splitter" -- i.e., not a "switch" -- then the Cable box has to deal with the HDMI fan-out protocol. Which means it has to set up both sides of the HDMI path and deal with any conflict between what the two sides are willing to accept for audio/video formats. (The Source device implements the HDMI handshake for the entire signal path.) It wouldn't surprise me in the least to discover there are Cable boxes out there which just throw up their hands in despair when faced with this task.
> 
> 
> NOW, if your Display happens to be of the type that shuts down any HDMI sockets which are not currently selected for input, and if you remember to turn off the Anthem when you are not using it, then the splitter will see only one live output connection at a time -- so no fan-out. But the Cable box STILL has to deal with repeater processing in the handshake (first to the "splitter') and then to the Anthem (or Display) THROUGH the "splitter". And yep, in the past Cable boxes have screwed this up, too. Indeed when the Anthem is in the path, this has to be done twice as the Cable box also needs to handshake with the Display -- through BOTH the splitter and the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Anyway, whichever splitter you get may have "smarts" that try to fool the Cable box into thinking the connection is simple. And perhaps those "smarts" aren't quite so smart, which is why power cycling the splitter "fixes" things.
> 
> 
> In short, there is no such thing as "simple" when it comes to HDMI.
> 
> --Bob


Bob,

Great, thank you.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23520427
> 
> 
> Thestewman,
> 
> The quick answer is personal preference.



Cable TV and addressing only HD cable is at 1080i.

One of the good reasons for using the AVM 50v is it allows you to properly deinterlace the cable 1080i signal without any defects and send 1080P to your display.

There is another way to handle separating the devices.

The component video signal (YPBPR ) red, green, blue available from your cable box will give you the same quality HD

video stream as HDMI and eliminate the handshake problems. Either to and then from the AVM 50v or directly to your tv.


These are only suggestions and would eliminate the HDMI splitter problems.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40920#post_23481324
> 
> 
> If you could be so kind I would like to know if windows 8 recognizes the true volume of the test tune on your set up (based on a DB meter or verified on windows 7). For me running windows 8 this is not the case and the arc response graphs are in error. Anthem has been aware (I am on the list) of my problem for 2 1/2 months and to date I have not received a response whether it is reproducible at their end or not. I have asked for an update over 2 1/2 weeks ago with the response "we will check into it". It does run on windows 8 for me, but for sure not flawlessly.
> 
> 
> It is a volume issue for me and one would think that a small program to transform my cal file could be an answer, most fixes come when they are out on the table. Windows 8.1 is out now as preview and more and more are now running windows 8 since it is faster than windows 7. I would say that if you run your arc setup thru windows 8 it may not be producing the correct results for up load and you may not be realizing the true potential of ARC.
> 
> 
> Regards



Still no response obvious fu#ked up on windows 8. Just built a 4770k on a hero board and will have to dig out a old ssd to install win 7 for one app. A very important app. Letz move on plz.



Regards


----------



## pinoy ako

I am sorry if this was answered already and I am a newbie, I have installed version 3.10 for my d2v3d and in the bass management, there is two option only for sub which is 0ne sub and two subs. I chose 1 sub but I have two subs. Is this correct?

Also I run A.R.O of my fathom before running ARC 3.0.2, is this required? Thanks a lot.


----------



## CharlieU

One sub is the correct setting. I've run ARC both ways and my best results were achieved running A.R.O. prior to the ARC run. You should be able to test this easily. Run A.R.O. then do a Quick Measurement with ARC. Defeat the A.R.O on your Fathoms and then do another Quick Measurement.


----------



## pinoy ako




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23523533
> 
> 
> One sub is the correct setting. I've run ARC both ways and my best results were achieved running A.R.O. prior to the ARC run. You should be able to test this easily. Run A.R.O. then do a Quick Measurement with ARC. Defeat the A.R.O on your Fathoms and then do another Quick Measurement.



Thanks a lot, I have another problem. I am running the ARC now, but I keep receiving an error, EXCESSIVE NOISE BACKGROUND and it keeps repeating. I cannot finish my measurements, I am very sorry about this, please help.

I am sure that I have low noise floor.


----------



## Audiolic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23523570
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot, I have another problem. I am running the ARC now, but I keep receiving an error, EXCESSIVE NOISE BACKGROUND and it keeps repeating. I cannot finish my measurements, I am very sorry about this, please help.
> 
> I am sure that I have low noise floor.


Pinoy,

I had a similar problem before if the speakers were too close to furniture or loose ornaments in the room. This tends to "rattle" when you run the ARC tests. If this is the case, try removing loose ornaments close to the speakers temporarily while running ARC or move your speakers away slightly.


All the best.

Audiolic


----------



## pinoy ako




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiolic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23523640
> 
> 
> Pinoy,
> 
> I had a similar problem before if the speakers were too close to furniture or loose ornaments in the room. This tends to "rattle" when you run the ARC tests. If this is the case, try removing loose ornaments close to the speakers temporarily while running ARC or move your speakers away slightly.
> 
> 
> All the best.
> 
> Audiolic



Upfront is clear from furnitures, but at the back, there is a sofa. Maybe I have to move it away. I am sure nothing is rattling.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23523459
> 
> 
> I am sorry if this was answered already and I am a newbie, I have installed version 3.10 for my d2v3d and in the bass management, there is two option only for sub which is 0ne sub and two subs. I chose 1 sub but I have two subs. Is this correct?
> 
> Also I run A.R.O of my fathom before running ARC 3.0.2, is this required? Thanks a lot.



Always set "1 Sub" if you have one or more subs and are using ARC. All that the "1 Sub" vs. "2 Sub" settings do is alter how the Subwoofer volume trim lines in Setup > Level Calibration are interpreted. The value ARC Uploads for those is calculated assuming you have "1 Sub" set.


If you are using any other sort of audio EQ equipment you should make sure you run ARC setup as the LAST step. For ARC to function it has to hear the output of your speakers/sub as modified but whatever else you've thrown into the mix.


I responded to your PM regarding the excessive noise complaint. You may just need to set Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level to adjust the volume of ARC's sweep tones, but I listed some other things for you to check as well.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

Thank you very much. I will try every thing you advice and will report back.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23523459
> 
> 
> I am sorry if this was answered already and I am a newbie, I have installed version 3.10 for my d2v3d and in the bass management, there is two option only for sub which is 0ne sub and two subs. I chose 1 sub but I have two subs. Is this correct?
> 
> Also I run A.R.O of my fathom before running ARC 3.0.2, is this required? Thanks a lot.



So is there a new official firmware??

I just see v3.09 on the Anthem website.

I know Bob talked about a new beta that was touted as a 'release candidate', but I thought it was 3.09L or something like that. Did I miss something or am I looking in the wrong place??


Tom


----------



## pinoy ako

Still not official. You can download it from anthem password protected page V 3.10


----------



## lk100

I have one of the very early D2vs and have been successfully running with firmware v3.09. So I updated with the release candidate v3.10. It seems I have lost all surround modes. The display seems to show the correct input, but no matter what I do the output is only LF C RF Sub. I did reload my arc settings but results were the same. I updated with v3.10 a second time with the same result. My question is can I go back and update with v3.09 without freezing the unit? This is the first time I've had an issue with the firmware updates.


Thanks,


Lee


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23524320
> 
> 
> I have one of the very early D2vs and have been successfully running with firmware v3.09. So I updated with the release candidate v3.10. It seems I have lost all surround modes. The display seems to show the correct input, but no matter what I do the output is only LF C RF Sub. I did reload my arc settings but results were the same. I updated with v3.10 a second time with the same result. My question is can I go back and update with v3.09 without freezing the unit? This is the first time I've had an issue with the firmware updates.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Lee



Yes you can roll back to the older firmware, but before you do that, check the obvious stuff. The most likely thing is that either your speaker configuration (in Setup) is not setup up correctly, or if you are using Triggers to bring your amps out of standby that the Triggers configuration is not setup correctly and so only the LF/RF amp is coming alive. It is also possible that you have selected Stereo audio surround mode by mistake.


Start with the basics. Go into Setup > Level Calibration and check that you can get a test tone from each speaker. If not, then check that the amps are coming out of standby.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

After having lots of disappointment







due to excessive background noise, I finished my first ARC process and here are my graphs:

 
 
 
 
 
 


I hope someone will help me to interpret these (I'm newbie) and help me to improve my setup. Thanks a lot.


Comments are most welcome!










Here is my setup:


Anthem Statement D2V 3D

Anthem Statement A5

Bryston 4BSST2

KEF Reference 205/2

KEF Reference 204/2C

KEF LS50

JL Audio Fathom F113 x 2


Thanks.


----------



## lk100

The main amp is 5 channel, which includes the surrounds. A second amp powers the rears. The main amp seems to be firing on as the LF C RF are powered by it. The part that is strange is the actual status display always shows LF C RF Sub as the output format. The input format display shows all the speakers correctly, and the mode shows correctly as PLIIX movie when applicable. The calibration test produces sound from all 7 speakers and the sub. It looks like the system software thinks I only have 3 speakers and 1 sub when applying the output mode.


Thanks,


Lee


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23524462
> 
> 
> After having lots of disappointment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> due to excessive background noise, I finished my first ARC process and here are my graphs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope someone will help me to interpret these (I'm newbie) and help me to improve my setup. Thanks a lot.
> 
> 
> Comments are most welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my setup:
> 
> 
> Anthem Statement D2V 3D
> 
> Anthem Statement A5
> 
> Bryston 4BSST2
> 
> KEF Reference 205/2
> 
> KEF Reference 204/2C
> 
> KEF LS50
> 
> JL Audio Fathom F113 x 2
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Your charts look good to me. Please post your Targets View so that we can see what cutoffs and room gain ARC has selected for you.


----------



## pinoy ako

Here is my Targets View:


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The main problem looks like the solution level is 15dB too low, which may also explain the complaints about excess ambient noise during the Measurement process.


The results actually look quite good using ARC's choices.


At this point I WOULDN'T CHANGE A THING until you've spent some time listening and see how you like it.



What are you running on your Windows computer. Windows 7 or what? I'd like to find an answer to the low level of the solution.


If you adjusted Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level as I describe in my PM to you, the level of the solution should be a bit above 70dB and you are bit under 60db now.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23524490
> 
> 
> The main amp is 5 channel, which includes the surrounds. A second amp powers the rears. The main amp seems to be firing on as the LF C RF are powered by it. The part that is strange is the actual status display always shows LF C RF Sub as the output format. The input format display shows all the speakers correctly, and the mode shows correctly as PLIIX movie when applicable. The calibration test produces sound from all 7 speakers and the sub. It looks like the system software thinks I only have 3 speakers and 1 sub when applying the output mode.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Lee



Lee, the only thing I can think of is that your Setup settings are corrupted in some fashion.


I suggest you Save User Settings (for easier recovery if this isn't it), then Reload Factory Defaults, then make the minimum necessary MANUAL settings changes to get back video and re-establish your speaker configuration -- i.e., do not re-Upload ARC yet. Set up one Source for, e.g, your disc player and see if the same problem is happening.


If it works that way, then try re-Uploading your ARC solution and see if that breaks it.



Another thing to check: If you are using THROUGH mode (for 3D for example), change that back to a normal configuration and try again. You may be getting bitten by the bug where THROUGH mode and Last Used audio surround Preset don't play well together.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

Okay thanks. I will spend some time with this settings.


In advance settings Target Customization, when do you use the "FLAT" subwoofer high pass order?


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I suggest you don't fiddle with it yet. Listen a bit and see if you can detect any problems. I'd like to find an answer for why your solution level is so low before you start tweaking this.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23524545
> 
> 
> ^
> 
> 
> 
> What are you running on your Windows computer. Windows 7 or what? I'd like to find an answer to the low level of the solution.
> 
> 
> If you adjusted Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level as I describe in my PM to you, the level of the solution should be a bit above 70dB and you are bit under 60db now.
> 
> --Bob



I am using windows 8 64 bit. My SPL Meter is Checkmate CM-140 using Slow and C. In the Level Calibration, I used -6dB with reference to my SPL.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ We've had mixed reports posted here of whether or not Windows 8 actually works with ARC. At this point I believe Anthem thinks it DOES work with ARC, but clearly there's something up here.


I don't think this has been nailed down yet, but if you have access to a Windows 7 or Windows XP computer I suggest you install ARC on that and redo your ARC setup.


If you find the other computer works OK (gets you a solution just above 70dB without the excess ambient noise warnings), please do send an email to Anthem Tech Support with the details on your specific Windows 8 computer and configuration along with the info about what ARC did on Windows 8 compared to the other computer.


In fact if you look up a few posts here you'll find a follow up from another guy who's having problems with ARC on Windows 8. The 2 of you might want to exchange some PMs to see if you can spot a similarity in your Windows setups that might be out of the norm for other Windows 8 users.



I do NOT think the solution you've got now is unusable for listening tests. It's just the frustration of getting there in the first place.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

Ok thanks, I will try it with windows 7 tomorrow and report back.


I am going to bed now, 11pm here ..Goodnight..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Sleep? Sleep? Audiophiles are allowed to Sleep?


Gosh!










--Bob


----------



## Texas steve


Bob, and others with your Mode Presets for Bluray gong into your D2V are please - A-H  Im not sure I have mine right mine are Right -  I have a 5.1 system

A: Anth logic-cin

B PLIIX Movie

C PLIIX Movie

D THX Ultra2 Cinema

E. Dolby D Ex

F. THX Ultra2 Cinema

G  DTS-ES Matrix+THX

H  None


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Steve,

There's no "right" -- this is all personal preference. You can change audio surround Mode on the fly while watching something. Press the Mode button and use the Arrow keys to cycle through the available choices.


When you find a preference for a particular choice you can make that the DEFAULT whenever that type of audio content is played from that Source. That's what the Mode Presets are for.


One thing you need to know is that Mode Presets will let you set choices that don't actually apply in your configuration. So for example, in a 5.1 speaker setup, the choices for how to expand sound into the Rear speakers of a 7.1 speaker setup obviously don't apply, but you can still select between them in Mode Presets.


Now, when you actually go to PLAY something, the choices offered by the Mode button and Arrow keys are limited to only those that actually apply. If you begin playing content in a Source the Anthem will automatically adjust the default you have specified in Mode Presets to the appropriate "nearest thing" that actually applies.


You also need to know that some choices are not available if you enable the THX post processing. So for example, with THX post processing active you won't be able to change to the Academy Mono choice.


All of this stuff is actually described in the Manual, but since the interactions are a bit complex, it can be confusing. It is much easier to learn the options in practice -- by playing stuff with or without THX post processing turned on, and then going through the available choices with the Mode button and the Arrow keys until you become familiar with the options actually available.



My personal preference with ARC is to never use the THX post processing. So that eliminates a good chunk of choices.


I play stereo music as Stereo.


I play stereo movie tracks using PLIIx. Note that the choice of PLIIx Movie vs. PLIIx Music vs. PLIIx Games is only available if you have a 7.1 speaker system because the three of them only differ in how they generate content for the rear speakers.


I play stereo TV programs using AL Cinema.


But again, these are all personal choices. There's nothing wrong with deciding you prefer to do it differently.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve


I believe there is a problem with the latest release candidate 3.10.  I think I saw some one else mention it as well.

 

With Dolby Digital (HD or not),  on a 5.1 system, it shows input of LRC sub and LS and RS,   then on output it shows only LRC sub when you toggle though the info.    So, L&R Rears are NOT playing.

 

so just switched to a different source (Dolby Dig Direct TV) and it does the same thing on a 5.1 system

Input LCR LFE, LS, RS 

Output  LCR Sub

 

NO SURROUNDS!!


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41040#post_23524389
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you can roll back to the older firmware, but before you do that, check the obvious stuff. The most likely thing is that either your speaker configuration (in Setup) is not setup up correctly, or if you are using Triggers to bring your amps out of standby that the Triggers configuration is not setup correctly and so only the LF/RF amp is coming alive. It is also possible that you have selected Stereo audio surround mode by mistake.
> 
> 
> Start with the basics. Go into Setup > Level Calibration and check that you can get a test tone from each speaker. If not, then check that the amps are coming out of standby.
> 
> --Bob


I have exactly the same problem as detailed in my last post.  I believe there is a problem with 3.10


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41070#post_23524959
> 
> 
> I believe there is a problem with the latest release candidate 3.10.  I think I saw some one else mention it as well.
> 
> 
> With Dolby Digital (HD or not),  on a 5.1 system, it shows input of LRC sub and LS and RS,   then on output it shows only LRC sub when you toggle though the info.    So, L&R Rears are NOT playing.
> 
> 
> so just switched to a different source (Dolby Dig Direct TV) and it does the same thing on a 5.1 system
> 
> Input LCR LFE, LS, RS
> 
> Output  LCR Sub
> 
> 
> NO SURROUNDS!!



Me too.

There seems to be a problem with DD5.1 in the v3.10.

I played a bluray (Oppo 103 bitstream out) with a DTS-MA track and it worked fine.

I played a DVD with a DD5.1 track and nothing from surrounds. I have a 5.1 speaker setup.

I watched Dish Sat and programs in stereo worked fine in all channels--- I have it set to Anthem Logic for 2.0 sources. With a DD5.1 source I get R/C/L/Sub-- No Surrounds.


There is something wrong with v3.10's handling of surrounds (and maybe rears) of DD5.1.


I have not tried a DTS 5.1 soundtrack yet. I will try later.


If someone has not contacted Anthem yet about this glitch let me know and I will contact them.


If someone with a 7.1 setup could check and see if the glitch affects surrounds and rears, please do and let us know.


I guess that's why its still on the password protected page.


Tom


----------



## lk100

I reloaded factory defaults and played one source (PS3) with same result: No surrounds. So I reloaded firmware v3.09 and surrounds are back. There is something incompatible with my hardware and the new software.


Thanks,


Lee


----------



## Bob Pariseau

*In my 5.1 speaker setup, I'm *NOT* seeing a problem. I just checked again, testing LPCM 5.1 input and also Bitstream input of DD 5.1 and DTS 5.1. Tested using the Channel ID tracks from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, and also Disney's "WOW World of Wonder", SD-DVD.*


So perhaps the problem is limited to 7.1 speaker configurations?


NOTE: In my checks -- i.e., where I did *NOT* find a problem -- the Select button display for output also shows the Surround speakers active for output, as expected.



Folks having this problem with v3.10 should DEFINITELY email Anthem Tech Support with details. D2v or AVM 50v? Serial #? 3D upgrade installed? Speaker configuration 7.1 or 5.1? Source device -- Bitstream or LPCM input -- and which test tracks are doing what.


Also check that the Setup > Level Calibration test tones continue to work correctly.


If you built a NEW ARC configuration for v3.10, mention that as well. If you re-Uploaded a PRIOR configuration (which is what I did), mention that.


If anyone having this problem is using ARC but did NOT re-Upload your ARC solution after the firmware install, doing that might be a good thing to try.



ETA: Very important, folks -- do NOT expect Anthem to pick up on this just because you post here. You need to get the details DIRECTLY to Anthem Tech Support. I did just send an email to Nick @ Anthem alerting him that something seems to be up with v3.10.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It shouldn't make a difference, but for everyone having the problem with v3.10, did you install on top of "official" v.3.09 or some later "test" version? One of the posters stated that was the case. What about the rest of you?


In my case (no problem observed), I installed v3.10 on top of "test" v3.09j.


Also, did you follow the instructions and (1) Reset Factory Defaults before the install, and (2) Make sure all your HDMI connections -- both Sources and Display -- are not live DURING the install?


For that last one, I recommend you pull wall power from your HDMI Sources and Display, since some HDMI devices keep their sockets live even when the device is supposedly OFF.

--Bob


----------



## lk100

I installed on top of last official 3.09. I first observed the 3.10 problem on various 5.1 inputs before reloading arc. After reloading arc., I also played a 7.1 disc with nothing to the surrounds or the rears. I didn't disable the rears to test a 5.1 speaker configuration. I see someone else has a 5.1 system with surround problems. I wonder if possibly some test version prepared the way for 3.10, and going through all the test versions, heaven forbid, would yield a good result for 3.10. Could someone post the email address for Anthem Support? Is it just [email protected]?


Thanks,


Lee


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Here are the three ways to contact Anthem Tech Support, as posted by Nick. The link takes you to a "web form" in your browser, the second is an email address, and the 3rd is, well a phone call. It is best to use these ways rather than sending to a specific person, just in case that person is tied up on other stuff:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick @ Anthem*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/32340#post_19970771
> 
> 
> email:
> http://www.anthemav.com/Contact-Technical-Support
> 
> 
> 
> This is the same as sending an e-mail to [email protected] except that e-mail has a spam filter which can on occasion remove wanted messages from newly seen sender addresses.
> 
> 
> 
> phone:
> 
> (+1) 905-362-0958, option 2
> 
> *EDIT BY BOB: From Nick, July 14, 2013: The new, better phone number for reaching Anthem (or Paradigm) Tech Support: (+1) 905-564-1994 option 6*
> 
> 
> 
> This is more effective for new issues than trying to contact an individual's extension. Off-peak hours are midweek, midday. If all lines are busy, almost guaranteed on Monday mornings and Friday afternoons, simply leave a voice message including your inquiry and someone will reply at earliest opportunity.




Just to be clear, Nick's responsibilities no longer include Tech Support, so it is best to send info to Tech Support directly.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lk100*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41070#post_23525452
> 
> 
> I installed on top of last official 3.09. I first observed the 3.10 problem on various 5.1 inputs before reloading arc. After reloading arc., I also played a 7.1 disc with nothing to the surrounds or the rears. I didn't disable the rears to test a 5.1 speaker configuration. I see someone else has a 5.1 system with surround problems. I wonder if possibly some test version prepared the way for 3.10, and going through all the test versions, heaven forbid, would yield a good result for 3.10. Could someone post the email address for Anthem Support? Is it just [email protected]?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Lee



Each firmware install is complete in and of itself. If the behavior really is different depending on what was installed before then that's a bug (something not initialized properly by the install).


Did you Reset Factory Defaults prior to the install and also make sure you had no live HDMI connections DURING the install?

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41070#post_23525507
> 
> 
> Each firmware install is complete in and of itself. If the behavior really is different depending on what was installed before then that's a bug (something not initialized properly by the install).
> 
> 
> Did you Reset Factory Defaults prior to the install and also make sure you had no live HDMI connections DURING the install?
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I installed over v3.09j.

Saved user settings and reset to factory defaults. I unplugged all HDMI connections.

I have a 5.1 set-up.


Its not my first rodeo. I've been doing firmware upgrades since my D2 came with v1.1.. Don't think its anything I did, or did not do.

I was not getting sound to my surrounds with DD5.1 input with v3.10.


FWIW, my D2v does not have the 3D upgrade.


I reverted to v3.09 official and everything is fine.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Sure, just trying to isolate possible differences.


OK, then, is there anyone having the problem who DOES have the 3D Upgrade, and if so, are you seeing this on the new HDMI 1-4 inputs? (My testing which showed no problem was using HDMI 1 input on my D2v/3D.)

--Bob


----------



## lk100




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41070#post_23525507
> 
> 
> Each firmware install is complete in and of itself. If the behavior really is different depending on what was installed before then that's a bug (something not initialized properly by the install).
> 
> 
> Did you Reset Factory Defaults prior to the install and also make sure you had no live HDMI connections DURING the install?
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I loaded factory defaults and had no live HDMI connections. I was able to re-install 3.09 with no problems. I do not have the 3D board.


Lee


----------



## dmusoke


http://www.avsforum.com/t/1481534/dr-bose-rip#post_23525846


----------



## dmusoke


OK ....just installed RC v3.10 on my D2v and all seems OK. My setup is as follows:

 

5.1 audio configuration...

No 3D board...

Upgraded from v3.09j...

 

I tested all channels using both test tones in the Anthem setup menu and the Oppo 105 audio menu. All 6 speakers respond correctly when told to play.

 

- David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The problem may only manifest with Bitstream input of DD 5.1 tracks.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41070#post_23525905
> 
> 
> OK ....just installed RC v3.10 on my D2v and all seems OK. My setup is as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 5.1 audio configuration...
> 
> No 3D board...
> 
> Upgraded from v3.09j...
> 
> 
> 
> I tested all channels using both test tones in the Anthem setup menu and the Oppo 105 audio menu. All 6 speakers respond correctly when told to play.
> 
> 
> 
> - David


David and Bob  No 3d board, 5.1 system, upgraded from 3.09l , I DO have the surround problem,  but just like you the internal tones DO play in surrounds.   However - when I have any 5.1 surround program (from DTV or BR) I get no sound out of the surrounds.  If you put on any 5.1, then scroll though the info on screen (time, ser#. version, input, output etc) input will say all channels, but output will say LRC+ sub  NO SURROUNDS.   please check via scrolling though the info on screen vs what the front display says - mine "says" 5.1 and I can raise the surrounds level, but to no avail as scrolling shows its only LRC and sub out.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41070#post_23525507
> 
> 
> 
> Each firmware install is complete in and of itself. If the behavior really is different depending on what was installed before then that's a bug (something not initialized properly by the install).
> 
> 
> Did you Reset Factory Defaults prior to the install and also make sure you had no live HDMI connections DURING the install?
> 
> --Bob


Bob as stated I DO have test tones to the surrounds, and the front display shows Im getting 5.1 (DTV or BR), but when I scroll though the info of the Anthem D2v (time, ser#, in, out etc)  it shows Input of LRC LFE and LS RS, but  when I scroll to the output is only shows LRC Sub.    Interesting that I can raise the level of the surrounds but of course to no avail as the output shows only LRC sub, no surrounds.

 

Can you and Dumsmoke please run though your on screen info (vs just what the front display says) and see what it says for your input and output.

Lee - did you notice this as well?


----------



## obie_fl

Hmmm...so far it looks like it may be an issue with the non-3D units. Will have to see if David can confirm it on a DD 5.1 signal. I'm sure Anthem will be all over this once it is pinned down. I've never messed with the betas on my D2 or D2v but am watching this closely since it was a release candidate.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nick @ Anthem tells me they've pulled the v3.10 Release Candidate firmware from the password protected download page while they investigate this.


At the moment "test" firmware v3.09l (thats "L" as in Lucy) is on there. HOWEVER, the most recent change to the Dolby stuff came in that version so it should be suspect as wall.


If you are rolling back to earlier firmware -- instead of simply waiting for Anthem to repost a less broken version of v3.10 -- then "test" firmware v3.09j should be safe.



Also, Nick mentioned that there is a new, better phone number for reaching Tech Support. I've edited my post above, but I'll also post it here:


*From Nick @ Anthem: New, better phone number for reaching Anthem (or Paradigm) Tech Support: (+1) 905-564-1994 option 6*



--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

On my D2v/3D, I've tested DD 5.1 Bitstream input on HDMI 1 (i.e., the new hardware), on HDMI 8 (i.e., the old hardware), and on Optical Digital 2 (just to be different).


I found no problem on any of them.


And yes, in my v3.10 setup, the Select button info displays show the Surround speakers as active for output during these tests (in addition to proper audio coming from them)

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41070#post_23526390
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41070#post_23525905
> 
> 
> OK ....just installed RC v3.10 on my D2v and all seems OK. My setup is as follows:
> 
> 
> 5.1 audio configuration...
> 
> No 3D board...
> 
> Upgraded from v3.09j...
> 
> 
> I tested all channels using both test tones in the Anthem setup menu and the Oppo 105 audio menu. All 6 speakers respond correctly when told to play.
> 
> 
> - David
> 
> 
> 
> David and Bob  No 3d board, 5.1 system, upgraded from 3.09l , I DO have the surround problem,  but just like you the internal tones DO play in surrounds.   However - when I have any 5.1 surround program (from DTV or BR) I get no sound out of the surrounds.  If you put on any 5.1, then scroll though the info on screen (time, ser#. version, input, output etc) input will say all channels, but output will say LRC+ sub  NO SURROUNDS.   please check via scrolling though the info on screen vs what the front display says - mine "says" 5.1 and I can raise the surrounds level, but to no avail as scrolling shows its only LRC and sub out.
Click to expand...


Steve, do your recall testing this in v3.09l ("L" as in Lucy) prior to installing v3.10? The last change to the Dolby stuff was made in v3.09l.


Also, your post suggests this is happening with ANY 5.1 input format. So far, I thought we had determined this is only happening with Dolby 5.1 Bitstream input -- either lossy DD 5.1 or Lossless Dolby TrueHD 5.1. Are you seeing the failure with other 5.1 input formats as well? LPCM 5.1, DTS 5.1, DTS-HD MA 5.1?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I also just checked my D2v/3D, v3.10, with a higher bit-rate, DD+ 5.1 Bitstream input on HDMI 1 -- again no problem. Audio is happening in the Surrounds and the Select info displays show the Surrounds active for output.


In terms of other settings, I have:


1) ARC active

2) Dolby Volume OFF

3) THX post processing OFF

4) 5.1 speakers configured

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, however this turns out -- either a quick turnaround fix, or back to the drawing board with v3.09 staying as "official" for now -- I want to point out how valuable the posters in this thread are to the community of Anthem enthusiasts!


It is much MUCH better to catch this stuff BEFORE it gets posted as "official".

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41070#post_23526434
> 
> 
> 
> Steve, do your recall testing this in v3.09l ("L" as in Lucy) prior to installing v3.10? The last change to the Dolby stuff was made in v3.09l.
> 
> 
> Also, your post suggests this is happening with ANY 5.1 input format. So far, I thought we had determined this is only happening with Dolby 5.1 Bitstream input -- either lossy DD 5.1 or Lossless Dolby TrueHD 5.1. Are you seeing the failure with other 5.1 input formats as well? LPCM 5.1, DTS 5.1, DTS-HD MA 5.1?
> 
> --Bob


Bob, I went from J to 3:10, I skipped L.   I do note that they made Dolbly changes in L so perhaps that's it?      You have the 3D board in you D2V don't you Bob?   Mine does not


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41070#post_23526434
> 
> 
> 
> Steve, do your recall testing this in v3.09l ("L" as in Lucy) prior to installing v3.10? The last change to the Dolby stuff was made in v3.09l.
> 
> 
> Also, your post suggests this is happening with ANY 5.1 input format. So far, I thought we had determined this is only happening with Dolby 5.1 Bitstream input -- either lossy DD 5.1 or Lossless Dolby TrueHD 5.1. Are you seeing the failure with other 5.1 input formats as well? LPCM 5.1, DTS 5.1, DTS-HD MA 5.1?
> 
> --Bob


Yes bob, any format - even simple 5.1 from DTV


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23526468
> 
> 
> By the way, however this turns out -- either a quick turnaround fix, or back to the drawing board with v3.09 staying as "official" for now -- I want to point out how valuable the posters in this thread are to the community of Anthem enthusiasts!
> 
> 
> It is much MUCH better to catch this stuff BEFORE it gets posted as "official".
> 
> --Bob


Bob, you think you could get them to put 3.09J back up?    L is were they messed with the pro logic.    Unfortunately I deleted J (or perhaps you could PM me J for the d2v),,   Oh I found 3.09H, Ill go back to that not much in J for the D2v anyway.  But first I will try to reload 3.10 again


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23526509
> 
> 
> Bob, you think you could get them to put 3.09J back up?    L is were they messed with the pro logic.    Unfortunately I deleted J (or perhaps you could PM me J for the d2v),,   Oh I found 3.09H, Ill go back to that not much in J for the D2v anyway.  But first I will try to reload 3.10 again


OK tried reloading 3.10 same issue no surrounds on non 3d Board.   Went back to 2.9H and all is good again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23526485
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41070#post_23526434
> 
> 
> Steve, do your recall testing this in v3.09l ("L" as in Lucy) prior to installing v3.10? The last change to the Dolby stuff was made in v3.09l.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, your post suggests this is happening with ANY 5.1 input format. So far, I thought we had determined this is only happening with Dolby 5.1 Bitstream input -- either lossy DD 5.1 or Lossless Dolby TrueHD 5.1. Are you seeing the failure with other 5.1 input formats as well? LPCM 5.1, DTS 5.1, DTS-HD MA 5.1?
> 
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> Yes bob, any format - even simple 5.1 from DTV
Click to expand...


5.1 from your DTV is almost certainly DD 5.1. And yes, my D2v has the 3D upgrade.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23526614
> 
> 
> 
> 5.1 from your DTV is almost certainly DD 5.1. And yes, my D2v has the 3D upgrade.
> 
> --Bob


3.10  is (was went back to 2.9H all is well) happing with TrueHD and DTS 5.1 and HTS-HDMA5.1 , but with 2.9H all is well again.   I sent email to support


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41070#post_23525909
> 
> 
> ^ The problem may only manifest with Bitstream input of DD 5.1 tracks.
> 
> --Bob


 

OK...just playing right now blue ray concert by SADE (Smooth Operator soundtrack







), a DD5.1 track and all speakers except center are playing. Surrounds are playing ok. The DTS-HD soundtrack is silent via HDMI Bitstream is silent though plays ok via MCH analogs. Maybe this recording it bad?

 

 

 

Switched over to ""The HOST", cute movie in its own right, all 5.1 speakers are playing fine, including surrounds.DD+ soundtrack

 

Cable 5.1 DTV is fine as well ....

 

Reason to switchback to 3.09?


----------



## dherrick

I installed 3.10 yesterday on my D2v. It's non 3D and I upgraded from 3.09c.


Fortunately all seems to be well. No problems with 5.1 DD SD DVD or 5.1 Cable TV. Surrounds work in both cases.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Very strange! Obviously there's a difference here we haven't sussed out yet.


Of course it could be purely random -- something not getting initialized properly by the install.


Anyone have any ideas as to what the difference might be between units experiencing the problem and those not affected?

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23527196
> 
> 
> I installed 3.10 yesterday on my D2v. It's non 3D and I upgraded from 3.09c.
> 
> 
> Fortunately all seems to be well. No problems with 5.1 DD SD DVD or 5.1 Cable TV. Surrounds work in both cases.


D, don't go by what the D2v screen says.  Go though the on screen info (ser#, time, version, input, output etc)  check what it says for input then check the output.   All seemed fine in my set up too (all though I just though there were no surround info at time) but when you check the screen info you can see the output has no sourround listed.   at least in my case - so I went back to 3.09H and it works as it should.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23527204
> 
> 
> ^ Very strange! Obviously there's a difference here we haven't sussed out yet.
> 
> 
> Of course it could be purely random -- something not getting initialized properly by the install.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any ideas as to what the difference might be between units experiencing the problem and those not affected?
> 
> --Bob


Remember I re installed my 3.10 and still the problem.  Reinstalling 2.9H fixed all back again.   The ser# of my non 3d D2v is 142118 purchased on 09


----------



## dherrick

I did check the D2v screen. It showed the output as - L,C,R, Sub,LS,RS. I also put my ear up to the surround speakers to be sure the screen display was accurate.


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23527465
> 
> 
> I did check the D2v screen. It showed the output as - L,C,R, Sub,LS,RS. I also put my ear up to the surround speakers to be sure the screen display was accurate.



I did mean the dot matrix screen on the unit. Not the display on the monitor. My unit is an 09 also. 5 serial numbers later than yours. I did have to send it back to Anthem a year ago to have the video board replaced.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23527465
> 
> 
> I did check the D2v screen. It showed the output as - L,C,R, Sub,LS,RS. I also put my ear up to the surround speakers to be sure the screen display was accurate.


Good,  your blessed, im not!   in mine its only LCR sub!      thanks for checking


----------



## dherrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23527471
> 
> 
> Good,  your blessed, im not!   in mine its only LCR sub!      thanks for checking



Steve, sorry that you're having the issue. Usually I'm the one in your shoes. As Bob mentioned, it seems odd that it appears to be a random issue.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dherrick*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23527513
> 
> 
> 
> Steve, sorry that you're having the issue. Usually I'm the one in your shoes. As Bob mentioned, it seems odd that it appears to be a random issue.


yea never had a issue with any beta up till now.   Well I'm not alone so misery likes company.    good news is 2.09H works so I can watch movies till they figure it out.   Thanks for checking out your screen info - as I thought all was ok till I checked that, then stuck my ears to my surrounds!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It would be helpful if someone having the problem could install "test" firmware v3.09l, and report whether the problem is unique to v3.10 Release Candidate or not.


If unique to v3.10, it may be as simple as an error building that release installer. There have been cases of that in the past -- easily fixed.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23527721
> 
> 
> It would be helpful if someone having the problem could install "test" firmware v3.09l, and report whether the problem is unique to v3.10 Release Candidate or not.
> 
> 
> If unique to v3.10, it may be as simple as an error building that release installer. There have been cases of that in the past -- easily fixed.
> 
> --Bob


OK I was about to have a Jack Daniels Old Fashion, but instead I loaded "L" version.  Same problem as 3.10, so I'm back to "H" and all is good!!   NOW Im gonna have the JDOF!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Thanks. You've earned that Old Fashioned!

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23527916
> 
> 
> ^ Thanks. You've earned that Old Fashioned!
> 
> --Bob


Amen brother!!  Glad I could help, it appears something in L broke the chain! Would you please let Nick know, Im done for the night


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Done and done.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Sounds like Steve, Nick, and of course Bob have it nailed down already, all on a Sunday afternoon. This forum is pretty impressive at times and that comes from one who does software/hardware testing for a living. Nice work guys!


Oh and Steve next time use a good KY Bourbon or Rye instead of that Tenn Charcoal water you deserve it.







In case you need help with your favorite drink try this linky.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23528164
> 
> 
> Sounds like Steve, Nick, and of course Bob have it nailed down already, all on a Sunday afternoon. This forum is pretty impressive at times and that comes from one who does software/hardware testing for a living. Nice work guys!
> 
> 
> Oh and Steve next time use a good KY Bourbon or Rye instead of that Tenn Charcoal water you deserve it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you need help with your favorite drink try this linky.


Love it!   Thanks


----------



## pinoy ako




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41070#post_23524600
> 
> 
> ^ We've had mixed reports posted here of whether or not Windows 8 actually works with ARC. At this point I believe Anthem thinks it DOES work with ARC, but clearly there's something up here.
> 
> 
> I don't think this has been nailed down yet, but if you have access to a Windows 7 or Windows XP computer I suggest you install ARC on that and redo your ARC setup.
> 
> 
> If you find the other computer works OK (gets you a solution just above 70dB without the excess ambient noise warnings), please do send an email to Anthem Tech Support with the details on your specific Windows 8 computer and configuration along with the info about what ARC did on Windows 8 compared to the other computer.
> 
> 
> In fact if you look up a few posts here you'll find a follow up from another guy who's having problems with ARC on Windows 8. The 2 of you might want to exchange some PMs to see if you can spot a similarity in your Windows setups that might be out of the norm for other Windows 8 users.
> 
> 
> 
> I do NOT think the solution you've got now is unusable for listening tests. It's just the frustration of getting there in the first place.
> 
> --Bob






I re-run ARC 3.0.2 using *Windows 7 SP1*, and I am happy to report now that the error *"EXCESSIVE BACKGROUND NOISE"* never appear again. Now I am attaching the latest graph and the solution level now is at normal range.

*I think the problem is with WINDOWS 8.*


----------



## dmusoke


^ Good for you and nice to know about windows 8. Graphs look excellent BTW... I see the RF falls off rapidly after 5KHz than the rest of your speakers, which exhibit he same behavior. I would play with speaker toe-in or orientation with respect to the mike to extend that response out to 10KHz or more. You can use ARC's live measure for this purpose anyways. Also make sure the mike is pointing straight up and NOT near or close to a high frequency absorbing surface like the head rest of a couch.

 

Personally (and lastly), I would change the sub HPF setting from Auto to Flat...

 

Great work indeed







!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

pinoy ako,


OK, now things are where they should be as far as the basic volume level of the ARC solution.


First of all, please do write up your experience with using ARC 3.0.2 on Windows 8 vs. Windows 7 and email that to Anthem Tech Support. They may need details on your Windows 8 configuration -- such as which computer model, whether Windows 8 came bundled with the computer or was installed by you, and whether or not you PREVIOUSLY had a Beta Windows 8 version on there before your current version.



As for the ARC solution itself, what you've got right now looks very good.


I would recommend that you NOT fiddle with the cutoff/crossover values. You mentioned before that you wanted to raise them to 80 to allow your sub to handle more of the bass, but in this case I think ARC is relying on the slightly lower values to build a better solution. So I suggest you leave them where they are.


If you know your subwoofer has its own, internal protection against the very lowest bass frequencies (below 20Hz), your chart suggests your Sub is a good candidate for use of the Flat option in the Advanced portion of Targets. To try that, just make the change in Targets, accept that change (which will also dismiss the Targets window), re-Calculate and re-Upload. No need to re-Measure.


You've got a bit of a drop off at the highest frequencies which may simply be a matter of mic sensitivity. Right now, ARC is set to do correction only up to the default limit of 5KHz (the Max EQ Frequency setting in Targets), and for now I suggest you leave it there and do some listening -- perhaps with the change to Flat.


While you are doing that, consider the physical pointing of your speakers, as all speakers are more directional at the highest frequencies. If your speakers are not mounted at seated ear height then pay particular attention to their vertical pointing. For LF/RF, you do NOT want them pointing directly at ARC mic position #1. The usual Rule of Thumb is to toe them in only 1/3 of that amount. That is if you consider the angle between pointing straight to the back of the room and pointing directly towards ARC mic position #1, you only want to rotate them 1/3 of that angle. If you end up repointing any of them you should re-Measure for ARC.


As things stand now, you could, I believe experiment with extending ARC 's correction up another octave or a bit more. I.e., Max EQ Frequency of 10KHz or perhaps 12KHz. As with Flat, you can experiment with that by just doing a re-Calculate and a re-Upload. No need to re-Measure unless you shift speakers physically, which changes what ARC recorded during Measurement. Note that telling ARC it can apply correction resources up there will divert them from corrections needed lower down. So when you raise Max EQ Frequency, one of the things you should check is whether the green Calculated curves for any of the speakers start looking worse at lower frequencies. If so, back off Max EQ Frequency. The cleaner solution lower down is more important.


Also keep in mind that the positioning of the ARC mic is crucial for best Measurement of treble frequencies. The mic needs to be pointing straight up at each location. The tip of the mic should be set at seated ear height -- if you recline seats while listening then figure ear height for the reclined position. And keep the mic tip away from blocking or reflecting surfaces like seat backs. It is better to raise the mic tip a few inches to clear a seat back, or shift its position perhaps a foot closer to the screen. The mic is omnidirectional, so it hears audio from the entire hemisphere (all directions around) above the tip.


Again, you are into TWEAKING right now. The solution you ALREADY HAVE should sound excellent as is. Tweaking it a bit like this MIGHT make an improvement. Trust your ears. What you hear is more important than what you see in the charts.


NOTE: The Anthem can only store one ARC solution at a time. So if you want to compare two different solutions you have to pause to re-Upload them in turn. HOWEVER, if all of your changes are just in Targets, then you can use the Movie and Music solutions for comparison. I.e., leave Movie as your baseline solution and make your tweak experiments in Music. Then set up two Sources in the Anthem which are identical except one uses Movie and the other uses Music. Set that way, you can easily A/B compare the two sets of Targets choices. "Movie" and "Music" are just names of convenience. They could have been named Fred and Ethel. They are treated IDENTICALLY in terms of how ARC builds the solution for each and how the Anthem applies those two solutions during listening.

--Bob


----------



## chileboy

I just got an Oppo BDP-103. I was just looking for some advice as to the "best" way to have it connected to my AVM50 ARC. For some reason I had thought I could bitstream the lossless codecs, but apparently I cannot.


If I do bitstream, I get vanilla Dolby 5.1 / DTS - which sounds pretty good anyway. When I change the Oppo to output LPCM, it actually doesn't sound as good to me - but I've only given it a cursory listen. I did notice via the Anthem's "Status" that the LPCM is coming in at 48kHz - is that right, or can that be improved somehow? The Anthem will accept up to 192kHz, but maybe that's immaterial. Or am I better off using the analog outs on the Oppo when listening to Blu-Ray? I realize I should listen and see what my personal preference is, and I intend to, but I was just wondering what thoughts anyone has.


Since my display has only 1 input, 1080i, and I have 3 HDMI components, I'm running the Oppo into the Anthem first at 1080p, and letting the Anthem downscale it back to 1080i. I had found with my PS3 (which I retired, as I only used it to watch Blu-Ray anyway) that gave me noticeably better results for some reason than just running 1080i from the PS3. Not sure with the Oppo if using Split A/V and running 1080i straight to the display would look the same, better or worse. If I wanted to try that, could I run the Anthem HDMI Out to the Oppo In, letting the Anthem handle the audio from my other devices and the Oppo handling the video? Or do I run the risk of some sort of potential damage or complication (since the HDMI2 Out from the Oppo is also going back to the Anthem)?


Starting to feel left behind here a bit, having only the AVM50.










Thanks for any input .


- Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23529503
> 
> 
> I just got an Oppo BDP-103. I was just looking for some advice as to the "best" way to have it connected to my AVM50 ARC. For some reason I had thought I could bitstream the lossless codecs, but apparently I cannot.
> 
> 
> If I do bitstream, I get vanilla Dolby 5.1 / DTS - which sounds pretty good anyway. When I change the Oppo to output LPCM, it actually doesn't sound as good to me - but I've only given it a cursory listen. I did notice via the Anthem's "Status" that the LPCM is coming in at 48kHz - is that right, or can that be improved somehow? The Anthem will accept up to 192kHz, but maybe that's immaterial. Or am I better off using the analog outs on the Oppo when listening to Blu-Ray? I realize I should listen and see what my personal preference is, and I intend to, but I was just wondering what thoughts anyone has.
> 
> 
> Since my display has only 1 input, 1080i, and I have 3 HDMI components, I'm running the Oppo into the Anthem first at 1080p, and letting the Anthem downscale it back to 1080i. I had found with my PS3 (which I retired, as I only used it to watch Blu-Ray anyway) that gave me noticeably better results for some reason than just running 1080i from the PS3. Not sure with the Oppo if using Split A/V and running 1080i straight to the display would look the same, better or worse. If I wanted to try that, could I run the Anthem HDMI Out to the Oppo In, letting the Anthem handle the audio from my other devices and the Oppo handling the video? Or do I run the risk of some sort of potential damage or complication (since the HDMI2 Out from the Oppo is also going back to the Anthem)?
> 
> 
> Starting to feel left behind here a bit, having only the AVM50.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any input .
> 
> 
> - Mark



The original AVM 50 can not accept Bitstream input of the lossless Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA formats. It CAN accept high bit-rate, multi-channel LPCM, so all you need to do is set your new OPPO 103 to HDMI Audio LPCM and you'll be good to go.


For Bitstream input of those lossless formats you'd need the newer Anthem.


NOTE: Your AVM 50 *CAN* accept Bitstream input for the traditional lossy DD and DTS formats. My recommendation would be you just use LPCM from the OPPO 103 for everything, but there is an HDMI Audio AUTO setting in the 103 which, with your AVM 50, will send Bitstream for DD and DTS, and will automatically switch to sending LPCM for Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA.


In addition to the Bitstream limitation, your AVM 50 can only accept up to 5.1 input on HDMI, and also only up to 96KHz. The newer models can accept up to 7.1 input and up to 192KHz. Your model CAN take 5.1 input and expand it to 7.1 speaker output, but it can't accept 7.1 input in the first place. The OPPO 103 will automatically adjust its output to what the AVM 50 can accept, so no worries on that score.


The audio tracks on most every movie out there are authored at 48KHz. So 48KHz from the OPPO to the AVM 50 is perfectly normal.


For video, I suggest you do just what you are doing now -- i.e., run HDMI 1 output from the OPPO to the AVM 50 and then from the AVM 50 to your 1080i display.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23529427
> 
> 
> ^ Good for you and nice to know about windows 8. Graphs look excellent BTW... I see the RF falls off rapidly after 5KHz than the rest of your speakers, which exhibit he same behavior. I would play with speaker toe-in or orientation with respect to the mike to extend that response out to 10KHz or more. You can use ARC's live measure for this purpose anyways. Also make sure the mike is pointing straight up and NOT near or close to a high frequency absorbing surface like the head rest of a couch.
> 
> 
> Personally (and lastly), I would change the sub HPF setting from Auto to Flat...
> 
> 
> Great work indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !



Actually my speakers are already toed-in a little bit before I run the ARC. Also I followed everything Mr Bob's advice including the mic's orientation which is pointing straight up.

I moved my sofa backward so that mic's stand is free from any obstruction.


Thanks a lot!


----------



## pinoy ako

@Bob


Thanks a lot Mr Bob!


Before I prepare a love letter to Anthem about my experience, I will finish one movie first. I think I deserved it after having a headache for a few days fiddling with ARC and Windows 8...hahaha.


Wait my neighbor is knocking again! I really love my dual Fathoms! hehehe!.


Is my JL Fathom F113 has internal protection against the very lowest bass frequencies? So that I could use the "FLAT" settings?


Back to movie...( The last Stand...I really like this movie specially the machinegun scene!)


Pinoy


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I don't know the answer regarding your Fathom subs. The owner's thread for that sub here, or their tech support, should be able to answer that. Another easy way to tell is to see if it has a setting for adjusting the attenuation of the lowest frequencies. Typically there would be a very steep roll-off (perhaps -24dB per octave) below some frequency and that frequency (say 20Hz) might be adjustable.


I recommend you do *NOT* set Flat until you have confirmed that the Fathom has its own protection against the lowest frequencies.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23529614
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> I moved my sofa backward so that mic's stand is free from any obstruction.
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot!



I recommend you invest in a lightweight "boom arm" mic stand to replace the vertical pole stand Anthem includes with ARC. The one I like is this one:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/400079-REG/On_Stage_MS7701B_MS7701B_Euro_Boom_Mic_Stand.html 


Simply unscrew the ARC mic clip from the top of the Anthem pole stand and screw it on to the end of the boom arm instead.


The boom arm makes it easy to position the mic over a sofa seat cushion. Indeed with the vertical part raised and the boom arm tilted down you can even reach over a seat back from behind.


When extended, the legs are flat enough to slide under furniture easily. For storage, they fold in to make a compact package.


It's a great time saver in getting the mic exactly where you want it for each mic position. Typically you can make one setting of the arm height, extension and angle that works for ALL the mic positions, and then you just lift and carry the stand to each new position without having to do any other adjustment.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

General Specs of Fathom F113


Enclosure Type Sealed

Enclosure Finish Black Gloss
*Frequency Response (Anechoic) 20 - 86 Hz (1.5dB) -3 dB at 18 Hz / 127 Hz -10 dB at 16 Hz / 154 Hz*

Effective Piston Area (Sd) 107.35 sq in / 0.0693 sq m

Effective Displacement 386 cu in / 6.3 L

Amplifier Power 2500 W RMS short-term


Will this help to know?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Nope. That doesn't answer whether the Fathom deliberately attenuates the lowest frequencies or not (low frequency protection). I.e. whether or not it has a "High Pass Filter" that kicks in down around 20Hz.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

I found it in JL Fathom Thread:



Originally Posted by craig john:


To measure the SPL's that your system can generate, you use an SPL meter. Then play test tones at the lowest frequencies and raise the SPL's until your can feel the pressure. (You can download individual frequency test tones here: http://www.realtraps.com/test-cd.htm ) That will tell you if you are able to pressurize your space to the levels you desire at the frequency you desire. Caution: *High SPL's at low frequencies can damage equipment. The JL subs have limiters, which should protect the subs, but use caution anyway.*


Craig


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41100#post_23529551
> 
> 
> The original AVM 50 can not accept Bitstream input of the lossless Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA formats. It CAN accept high bit-rate, multi-channel LPCM, so all you need to do is set your new OPPO 103 to HDMI Audio LPCM and you'll be good to go.
> 
> 
> For Bitstream input of those lossless formats you'd need the newer Anthem.
> 
> 
> NOTE: Your AVM 50 *CAN* accept Bitstream input for the traditional lossy DD and DTS formats. My recommendation would be you just use LPCM from the OPPO 103 for everything, but there is an HDMI Audio AUTO setting in the 103 which, with your AVM 50, will send Bitstream for DD and DTS, and will automatically switch to sending LPCM for Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA.
> 
> 
> In addition to the Bitstream limitation, your AVM 50 can only accept up to 5.1 input on HDMI, and also only up to 96KHz. The newer models can accept up to 7.1 input and up to 192KHz. Your model CAN take 5.1 input and expand it to 7.1 speaker output, but it can't accept 7.1 input in the first place. The OPPO 103 will automatically adjust its output to what the AVM 50 can accept, so no worries on that score.
> 
> 
> The audio tracks on most every movie out there are authored at 48KHz. So 48KHz from the OPPO to the AVM 50 is perfectly normal.
> 
> 
> For video, I suggest you do just what you are doing now -- i.e., run HDMI 1 output from the OPPO to the AVM 50 and then from the AVM 50 to your 1080i display.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, thank you as always for your sage advice - I feel better!


If I can ask a follow up - when I looked at the Status when running LPCM, although as I said the audio in showed 48KHz, for Audio Out it showed 24/192 - is that because of the "7.1 expansion" you're referring to? Not that it really matters, as my system is (still) 5.1, just curious.


Thanks again!


- Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The output item shows what the DACs are doing when handling that audio input.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41130#post_23529999
> 
> 
> ^ The output item shows what the DACs are doing when handling that audio input.
> 
> --Bob



Bob


That statement I don't understand. If he has a AVM50 and it only goes to 96khz and I think I remember that is the highest value you can select in the setup. How can it say the output is 24/192 ?


Stew


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My guess? It's a bug in the old, v1.33 firmware on the original AVM 50. I.e., the displayed output rate (DAC processing) is not correct.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

Mr Bob, sorry for the noob question, what is the significance of the "FLAT" setting?

Also if i change the Max EQ Frequency to 10khz, i will re calculate and re upload only, right? no need to re measure?


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41130#post_23530277
> 
> 
> Mr Bob, sorry for the noob question, what is the significance of the "FLAT" setting?



You mean after all this discussion of your Sub's protection you still didn't know what Flat does to begin with? Gosh!










ARC builds in a roll off of the lowest frequencies to protect Subs that need it. If your Sub doesn't measure as being good down to at least 20Hz that roll off starts earlier (at higher frequencies). You'll see that in the dashed black line Targets curve for the Subwoofer approaching the left side of its chart. If your Sub DOES measure good down that low the roll off is imposed anyway, pretty much mostly out of sight off the left side of the chart. The "FLAT" high pass filter option for the Subwoofer in the Advanced section of Targets eliminates that low frequency roll off.


For subwoofers without internal protection, this is BAD. You can damage the subwoofer if low frequencies are allowed to bottom out the cone motor.


It's even worse for subwoofers that can't function down that low to begin with, as ARC will apply boost to the low frequencies to try to compensate -- i.e., to try to get their output back up to "flat" down there. As you can imagine, this is why it is an "Advanced" option.


You should only enable Flat for the Subwoofer (Targets > Advanced) if the red Measured curve for the Sub shows it is already producing good output all the way down to 20Hz (the left edge of the chart) AND you know your Sub has its own built in protection against damage from the lowest frequencies, so it doesn't need ARC to do that protection for it.



And re Max EQ Frequency: Yes, ANY changes you make solely in the ARC Targets window do not require re-Measurement. Just Accept those changes, re-Calculate and re-Upload.


By the way, if you get confused as to what you've done in there, the Auto Detect button in Targets will restore the values ARC originally calculated for Targets based on the raw Measured data.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

Now i know.!! !
























I used now the "FLAT" settings and i really enjoy watching The Last Stand, every time the car is passing at a very high speed, my gosh! jaw dropping sound!


Thanks a lot..i will try more tweaking tomorrow....


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41130#post_23530118
> 
> 
> My guess? It's a bug in the old, v1.33 firmware on the original AVM 50. I.e., the displayed output rate (DAC processing) is not correct.
> 
> --Bob



I've never been clear on this. I got confused a long time ago because I read more than one post way back in this thread that stated if the AVM 50 had factory ARC - which mine does - by virtue of the addition of the second DAC needed for that, it effectively gained increased processing power, putting it more on a par with the 50V...which is why I was unsure on whether it could decode the Dolby / DTS lossless audio.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Well I've lost track of the details regarding the original AVM 50, but I didn't think they added the 192KHz upsampling to feed the DACs as part of the ARC upgrade. All that the ARC upgrade did was replace the digital audio processors with more powerful versions.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41130#post_23530636
> 
> 
> I didn't think they added the 192KHz upsampling to feed the DACs as part of the ARC upgrade.



Right, even the 50v doesn't do the upsampling.


All models since AVM-20 have 24-bit/192kHz DACs though.


----------



## gonzalc3

I installed firmware 3.10 in my d2v which does not have the 3d board installed and no sound is coming from the surrounds. I have a 7.1 setup. No sound coming from the surrounds using LPCM, or if the oppo bdp 103 bitstreams DTS HD Ma and DD.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41130#post_23530898
> 
> 
> I installed firmware 3.10 in my d2v which does not have the 3d board installed and no sound is coming from the surrounds. I have a 7.1 setup. No sound coming from the surrounds using LPCM, or if the oppo bdp 103 bitstreams DTS HD Ma and DD.


Thanks for the input.  there are several of us that have documented this issue.   Anthem is looking into it.  You can go back to 3.09H and it works fine on my non 3d D2v       Did you email Anthem?  if not do so to keep this on top of their list


----------



## Kensmith48

I finally broke my Tekton Pendragon speakers in and thought I'd re-run ARC. I got great results but I forgot to turn off ARC for my chosen components before starting. I calculated and uploaded the results. Do I have to upload again after turning ARC off on the components or am I good to go?


Thanks,

Ken


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41130#post_23531698
> 
> 
> I finally broke my Tekton Pendragon speakers in and thought I'd re-run ARC. I got great results but I forgot to turn off ARC for my chosen components before starting. I calculated and uploaded the results. Do I have to upload again after turning ARC off on the components or am I good to go?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken


ARC forces appropriate settings before doing its Measurements, so no worries. I.e., its Measurements never get confused by the intrusion of any PRIOR ARC solution, including things the prior solution uploaded into Setup such as speaker volume trims and crossovers.


All you need to do after the Upload is double check that ARC is still turned on (Room EQ ON) for each Setup > Source Setup line where you want to use it. (And if the Source uses ANALOG audio input, you also need to have ANALOG-DSP set in it for ARC to function for that Source.)

--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

When I uploaded ARC I went to turn arc on for each of my components but arc was already on since I forgot to turn it off before starting. Sounds like everything is ok though. Thought I'd check with the expert.


Thanks, Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41130#post_23530971
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41130#post_23530898
> 
> 
> I installed firmware 3.10 in my d2v which does not have the 3d board installed and no sound is coming from the surrounds. I have a 7.1 setup. No sound coming from the surrounds using LPCM, or if the oppo bdp 103 bitstreams DTS HD Ma and DD.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input.  there are several of us that have documented this issue.   Anthem is looking into it.  You can go back to 3.09H and it works fine on my non 3d D2v       Did you email Anthem?  if not do so to keep this on top of their list
Click to expand...

 

If i'm not mistaken, it seems to affect people with 7.1 setups. Those of us with 5.1 seem to have no problems with 3.10 (no 3d).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I thought Texas Steve had a 5.1 setup (and is seeing the problem in v3.10).

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

^ Mr. Heardhqa did you change User IDs by chance?


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41130#post_23531966
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If i'm not mistaken, it seems to affect people with 7.1 setups. Those of us with 5.1 seem to have no problems with 3.10 (no 3d).


I have a 5.1 as does one other and it DOES effect it as well.  I reloaded it twice and same issue, I loaded "L" release as well, same issue (no surrounds),  Went back to 3.09H and all is as it should be.  Something was introduced into L version.


----------



## Shazbatz

Had time to play with my recently purchased D2. I haven't run ARC yet since I don't have my surrounds setup. I did familiarize myself with the menu and manual though.


For Bass Management (Movies) option I selected SMALL for all the speakers (L,R,C,SL,SR) as recommended by THX. This way all the LFE gets fed to my dual 12" subs. The front main speakers can handle some bass. The subs (Dynaudio SUB500) have extremely durable drivers as well.


Should I set the front mains to LARGE?


Will it strain the mains?


Will this give more accurate phasing with the bass output?


----------



## AVfile

You have it setup correctly. Why would you change that? Setting mains to large means your subs are only used for LFE.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41130#post_23533061
> 
> 
> I have a 5.1 as does one other and it DOES effect it as well.  I reloaded it twice and same issue, I loaded "L" release as well, same issue (no surrounds),  Went back to 3.09H and all is as it should be.  Something was introduced into L version.



Maybe it only affects the D2v. Running L on my 50v no problem.


Here's something to try if anyone still has the buggy FW installed. When it occurs, press MODE and cycle to another mode and see if it kicks in.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41130#post_23533539
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it only affects the D2v. Running L on my 50v no problem.
> 
> 
> Here's something to try if anyone still has the buggy FW installed. When it occurs, press MODE and cycle to another mode and see if it kicks in.


Thanks, yep tried that too!!


----------



## Shazbatz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41130#post_23533508
> 
> 
> Setting mains to large means your subs are only used for LFE.




You mean SMALL. Right?


If you set the speakers to LARGE they take away LFE from the subs and if set to SMALL then all the LFE goes to the subs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I suspect you are confusing "LFE" with "bass" in general.


LFE is the special bass content delivered in the .1 channel of 5.1 and 7.1 tracks.


Every normal speaker channel is also able to carry bass as low down in frequency as you can go.


The DIFFERENCE is that the LFE channel is specially configured to carry LOUD bass.


With all speakers LARGE, only LFE goes to the subwoofer. With any speakers SMALL, LFE going to the Sub has mixed into it "steered bass" from the Small speakers in accordance with the Crossover frequency setting.


Steered Bass is extracted from each Small speaker channel and played in the Sub instead, in addition to the LFE already going to the Sub.


If you have a Sub configured, the LFE channel always, and only, plays in the Sub regardless of the Large/Small settings for the other speakers.


To answer your original question: If you have a decent Sub then I recommend you set ALL speakers SMALL (except for the unusual case of speakers that have POWERED Woofers).


Pick an appropriate Crossover and let the Sub handle the lowest bass for ALL speakers, in addition to the LFE channel.


If you have "full range" speakers I STILL recommend you set them SMALL. Just use a lower crossover like 40Hz. The Advanced option in Bass Management lets you set different Crossovers for different speakers (which is how ARC does it, too).

--Bob


----------



## Shazbatz

Thanks for clarifying guys. I get it now


I'll leave the speaker crossover settings alone until I run the ARC and see if it proves its worthiness


----------



## obie_fl

In a perfect non-marketing world "Small" would be "bass crossover enabled" and "Large" would be "bass crossover disabled"


Shazbat think of it this way take a look at your two very nice subs...now look at your mains woofers which does bass better? I have powered 10" woofers in my mains and I still run with the bass crossover enabled... I mean "Small".


----------



## jamulian

My Marantz BD8002 is not loading the newer movies and I have the latest firmware.

Marantz tells me they probably will not be updating the firmware for the unit any longer.

Therefore, I need a replacement. The audio portion of the BD8002 is working fine, so I can still use it for CD's.

I do not have a 3D tv, but I would like streaming.


What are you folks using with your Anthem's?


I was reading a review on the OPPO 103 and one of the comments was that if you do not have 1.4 you will not get the full benefit of the unit.

So I was wondering if the 50v will be upgradeable to 1.4 in the near future.


----------



## AVfile

I use an *old* Oppo that's not getting any more upgrades either and a cheap Sony to fill those other needs. I recommend you do the same and get a cheap *new* Sony. The streaming is great and they have been pretty good about firmware fixes in the current models. The days of spending 1000's on a disc player are over.


If you wanted to sell the Marantz or move it to another system and need a Universal player that does everything, then the *new* Oppo 103 would be a fine choice. There are many people using it with all kinds of Anthems, don't worry about the HDMI spec. Anthem as a company supports Oppo, and Oppo as a company supports Anthem.


There is a "3D upgrade" available for the 50v if you ever wanted to get into 3D. It is not cheap and not essential because it just bypasses the video processor which you can do with cables.


----------



## tspotorno

I have an Anthem D2v3D.


I recently finished my HT and have hooked it up to the projector for the first time, but noticed that I am getting a lot of screen tear and overall the picture is not as clear as I hoped. I was wondering if others here have the same equipment, that someone might provide some insight on what settings I should be using.


DVD Player: Oppo 95

Projector: Sony VPL-vw1000

HDMI Cable to projector: Monoprice Redmere cables that are about 30 ft long.


I played Avatar this morning and the screen tear was terrible. I tried Hobbit and it was not as bad but it was noticeable.


The D2v has not had any video changes, I have only run ARC to setup the speakers.


Thanks for any help.


Lastly, with the investment I have in the entire room, I though about possibly getting the system calibrated... Does anyone know about how much does it cost to have the projector calibrated?


Thanks,

Tony


----------



## davoran

I recently purchased a new AVM-50 and have been on the phone with tech support and they are recommending that I send the unit back so they can isolate the problem. I really would prefer not to send it back if I don't have to do so.


My blu-ray/CD player (Cambridge Azur 752) is connected to the Anthem via HDMI. My cable box *was* connected via HDMI to the Anthem, but thinking I had a handshake issue I changed to component/digital toslink connections from the cable box to the Anthem.


The problem is that when I have my cable box as a source, and I hold the source button down and then select an alternate audio source (CD), I lose the video image from the cable box. The unit works fine when I select the Cambridge video and then choose my cable box for audio. I only seem to have trouble with HDMI audio.


I've changed the settings multiple times, restored factory defaults and started over, etc., but I can't solve the problem and tech support is stumped.


Does anyone have any ideas? I had an AVM-20 for years and had no issues, and the only reason for the updgrade to the AVM-50 was to get HDMI and room correction, and now I'm having issues.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoran*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23540744
> 
> 
> I recently purchased a new AVM-50 and have been on the phone with tech support and they are recommending that I send the unit back so they can isolate the problem. I really would prefer not to send it back if I don't have to do so.
> 
> 
> My blu-ray/CD player (Cambridge Azur 752) is connected to the Anthem via HDMI. My cable box *was* connected via HDMI to the Anthem, but thinking I had a handshake issue I changed to component/digital toslink connections from the cable box to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> The problem is that when I have my cable box as a source, and I hold the source button down and then select an alternate audio source (CD), I lose the video image from the cable box. The unit works fine when I select the Cambridge video and then choose my cable box for audio. I only seem to have trouble with HDMI audio.
> 
> 
> I've changed the settings multiple times, restored factory defaults and started over, etc., but I can't solve the problem and tech support is stumped.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas? I had an AVM-20 for years and had no issues, and the only reason for the updgrade to the AVM-50 was to get HDMI and room correction, and now I'm having issues.



I am unclear about what you are attempting to do here.

Why would you want an different audio source when viewing cable or a BluRay/CD disk ? Or am I missing something ?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tspotorno*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23540014
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem D2v3D.
> 
> 
> I recently finished my HT and have hooked it up to the projector for the first time, but noticed that I am getting a lot of screen tear and overall the picture is not as clear as I hoped. I was wondering if others here have the same equipment, that someone might provide some insight on what settings I should be using.
> 
> 
> DVD Player: Oppo 95
> 
> Projector: Sony VPL-vw1000
> 
> HDMI Cable to projector: Monoprice Redmere cables that are about 30 ft long.
> 
> 
> I played Avatar this morning and the screen tear was terrible. I tried Hobbit and it was not as bad but it was noticeable.
> 
> 
> The D2v has not had any video changes, I have only run ARC to setup the speakers.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> 
> 
> Lastly, with the investment I have in the entire room, I though about possibly getting the system calibrated... Does anyone know about how much does it cost to have the projector calibrated?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tony



You should check your OPPO and Anthem setups. The OPPO should be sending 1080/24 to the Anthem and the Anthem sending the same to the Sony.

Your VPL-vw1000 projector has the better upscaling and will upscale the 1080p to 2160p.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davoran*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23540744
> 
> 
> I recently purchased a new AVM-50 and have been on the phone with tech support and they are recommending that I send the unit back so they can isolate the problem. I really would prefer not to send it back if I don't have to do so.
> 
> 
> My blu-ray/CD player (Cambridge Azur 752) is connected to the Anthem via HDMI. My cable box *was* connected via HDMI to the Anthem, but thinking I had a handshake issue I changed to component/digital toslink connections from the cable box to the Anthem.
> 
> 
> The problem is that when I have my cable box as a source, and I hold the source button down and then select an alternate audio source (CD), I lose the video image from the cable box. The unit works fine when I select the Cambridge video and then choose my cable box for audio. I only seem to have trouble with HDMI audio.
> 
> 
> I've changed the settings multiple times, restored factory defaults and started over, etc., but I can't solve the problem and tech support is stumped.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas? I had an AVM-20 for years and had no issues, and the only reason for the updgrade to the AVM-50 was to get HDMI and room correction, and now I'm having issues.



If I understand correctly what you are trying to do is listen to HDMI audio from source "A" while simultaneously watching Component video from source "B".


I don't think the hardware can do that.


HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of the HDMI video signal. Even when you are playing non-video content from, say, a CD, the HDMI audio is embedded in a video signal of SOME sort -- even if the player is just putting out a black screen.


Now, what this means is that the Anthem has to "process" the HDMI video to extract the audio. In terms of Setup, that means sending the HDMI input to the Scaler (the line near the top of the Source definition).


But there's only one Scaler and you've got the Component video going through it from your cable box.


So that HDMI from the CD player is not being processed, and thus its audio is not available for split-source playback.


To put it another way, you can watch HDMI video with its own audio or with any other NON-HDMI audio. And you can watch non-HDMI video with any NON-HDMI audio. But you can't listen to HDMI audio combined with any video but the video coming in on that same HDMI cable.


Now, what I would expect to happen is that your Component video would continue playing but you would not hear the HDMI audio you selected to accompany it.


Instead, as I understand, you are saying that you loser the Component video. You didn't mention, but do you get the HDMI audio or does it stay silent as well? That may be a bug in the firmware, but the bottom line is notwithstanding that, I don't believe you can do what you want to do.


HOWEVER, if you wire up an alternate audio path from the CD player, and define a Source which uses that for audio, then you CAN combine Component from the cable box with that other, non-HDMI audio.


In the case of a CD player, likely choices would be to wire either a Stereo Analog pair or to wire Optical or Coax Digital audio. In the case of a CD the digital audio carried by HDMI is identical to what's available on Optical or Coax, so that would be the closest match to what you are trying to do now.


One thing you'd need to check is whether your CD player produces output on *BOTH* HDMI and Optical/Coax while playing a CD. If so, then there's no hassle. Wire, say, Optical as well as the existing HDMI. Set one of your Source definitions to listen for audio on that Optical instead of the HDMI from the CD player. Select Component video from your cable box as you are doing now, and then select your new Source to combine that with Optical Digital audio from your CD player.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tspotorno*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23540014
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem D2v3D.
> 
> 
> I recently finished my HT and have hooked it up to the projector for the first time, but noticed that I am getting a lot of screen tear and overall the picture is not as clear as I hoped. I was wondering if others here have the same equipment, that someone might provide some insight on what settings I should be using.
> 
> 
> DVD Player: Oppo 95
> 
> Projector: Sony VPL-vw1000
> 
> HDMI Cable to projector: Monoprice Redmere cables that are about 30 ft long.
> 
> 
> I played Avatar this morning and the screen tear was terrible. I tried Hobbit and it was not as bad but it was noticeable.
> 
> 
> The D2v has not had any video changes, I have only run ARC to setup the speakers.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> 
> 
> Lastly, with the investment I have in the entire room, I though about possibly getting the system calibrated... Does anyone know about how much does it cost to have the projector calibrated?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tony



Tony, I suggest you give OPPO Tech Support a call and let them walk you through diagnosing this. They have a 3D capable Anthem in their test lab.


Here are some things to check in the interim.


To use 3D through the Anthem you need to wire the HDMI 1 output of the 95 to one of the upper row of HDMI inputs in the Anthem. (HDMI 1 - HDMI 4 input). Output to your projector must be via the upper HDMI output of the Anthem (Main HDMI Output).


The Setup > Source Setup definition you use for 3D playback must be set to use "THROUGH" for video instead of one of the 4, normal Video Output Configuration setups.


In the OPPO set the 3D output Mode to AUTO and leave all the Picture Adjustment settings at their default values. Set explicit 1080p output resolution (not AUTO or Source Direct).


Try a 3D disc and see what the Anthem says it is receiving as input, and also what your projector says it is receiving as input.


If still having problems, double check your HDMI cabling. Note that the Redmere HDMI cables are DIRECTIONAL. Make sure you have each of them installed the correct way around.


Make sure the plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets at each end.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tspotorno*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23540014
> 
> 
> I have an Anthem D2v3D.
> 
> 
> I recently finished my HT and have hooked it up to the projector for the first time, but noticed that I am getting a lot of screen tear and overall the picture is not as clear as I hoped. I was wondering if others here have the same equipment, that someone might provide some insight on what settings I should be using.
> 
> 
> DVD Player: Oppo 95
> 
> Projector: Sony VPL-vw1000
> 
> HDMI Cable to projector: Monoprice Redmere cables that are about 30 ft long.
> 
> 
> I played Avatar this morning and the screen tear was terrible. I tried Hobbit and it was not as bad but it was noticeable.
> 
> 
> The D2v has not had any video changes, I have only run ARC to setup the speakers.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> 
> 
> Lastly, with the investment I have in the entire room, I though about possibly getting the system calibrated... Does anyone know about how much does it cost to have the projector calibrated?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tony





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23541448
> 
> 
> Tony, I suggest you give OPPO Tech Support a call and let them walk you through diagnosing this. They have a 3D capable Anthem in their test lab.
> 
> 
> Here are some things to check in the interim.
> 
> 
> To use 3D through the Anthem you need to wire the HDMI 1 output of the 95 to one of the upper row of HDMI inputs in the Anthem. (HDMI 1 - HDMI 4 input). Output to your projector must be via the upper HDMI output of the Anthem (Main HDMI Output).
> 
> 
> The Setup > Source Setup definition you use for 3D playback must be set to use "THROUGH" for video instead of one of the 4, normal Video Output Configuration setups.
> 
> 
> In the OPPO set the 3D output Mode to AUTO and leave all the Picture Adjustment settings at their default values. Set explicit 1080p output resolution (not AUTO or Source Direct).
> 
> 
> Try a 3D disc and see what the Anthem says it is receiving as input, and also what your projector says it is receiving as input.
> 
> 
> If still having problems, double check your HDMI cabling. Note that the Redmere HDMI cables are DIRECTIONAL. Make sure you have each of them installed the correct way around.
> 
> 
> Make sure the plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets at each end.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


He never said he was watching in 3D.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

True. I just assumed it with "Avatar", and "Hobbit".

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23541608
> 
> 
> True. I just assumed it with "Avatar", and "Hobbit".
> 
> --Bob



As I would have also except I reread his questions two or three times before I responded.

His projector is Sony 4k and has an extremely good upscaler.

Better then the OPPO or the Anthem.


What I could not determine was "TEARING ". ?


----------



## davoran




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23541341
> 
> 
> I am unclear about what you are attempting to do here.
> 
> Why would you want an different audio source when viewing cable or a BluRay/CD disk ? Or am I missing something ?



I often will have a ballgame on the monitor while listening to music in my theater room.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Same here. I can't stand the local baseball announcers.


I use Optical/Coax or multi-channel Analog input from another device in combination with HDMI video from my Cable TV box.


If you use one combo exclusively, and have a free Source Setup line, it's easy enough to define a new Source that does just that -- HDMI (or Component) video from the cable box and non-HDMI audio from something else. Then you can just select that Source without having to go through the rigmarole of split-Source simulplay.

--Bob


----------



## davoran




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23541392
> 
> 
> If I understand correctly what you are trying to do is listen to HDMI audio from source "A" while simultaneously watching Component video from source "B".
> 
> 
> I don't think the hardware can do that.
> 
> 
> HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of the HDMI video signal. Even when you are playing non-video content from, say, a CD, the HDMI audio is embedded in a video signal of SOME sort -- even if the player is just putting out a black screen.
> 
> 
> Now, what this means is that the Anthem has to "process" the HDMI video to extract the audio. In terms of Setup, that means sending the HDMI input to the Scaler (the line near the top of the Source definition).
> 
> 
> But there's only one Scaler and you've got the Component video going through it from your cable box.
> 
> 
> So that HDMI from the CD player is not being processed, and thus its audio is not available for split-source playback.
> 
> 
> To put it another way, you can watch HDMI video with its own audio or with any other NON-HDMI audio. And you can watch non-HDMI video with any NON-HDMI audio. But you can't listen to HDMI audio combined with any video but the video coming in on that same HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> Now, what I would expect to happen is that your Component video would continue playing but you would not hear the HDMI audio you selected to accompany it.
> 
> 
> Instead, as I understand, you are saying that you loser the Component video. You didn't mention, but do you get the HDMI audio or does it stay silent as well? That may be a bug in the firmware, but the bottom line is notwithstanding that, I don't believe you can do what you want to do.
> 
> 
> HOWEVER, if you wire up an alternate audio path from the CD player, and define a Source which uses that for audio, then you CAN combine Component from the cable box with that other, non-HDMI audio.
> 
> 
> In the case of a CD player, likely choices would be to wire either a Stereo Analog pair or to wire Optical or Coax Digital audio. In the case of a CD the digital audio carried by HDMI is identical to what's available on Optical or Coax, so that would be the closest match to what you are trying to do now.
> 
> 
> One thing you'd need to check is whether your CD player produces output on *BOTH* HDMI and Optical/Coax while playing a CD. If so, then there's no hassle. Wire, say, Optical as well as the existing HDMI. Set one of your Source definitions to listen for audio on that Optical instead of the HDMI from the CD player. Select Component video from your cable box as you are doing now, and then select your new Source to combine that with Optical Digital audio from your CD player.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks so much! I spoke with two different techs at Anthem and neither realized the audio can't be split this way.


Your suggestion helps greatly. The only thing that is disappointing is that I won't be able to watch sports while listening to hi-rez multichannel audio.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If your player has multi-channel Analog outputs then you can use those. I do that with an OPPO BDP-105. Set ANALOG-DSP input and enable ARC. Set the player to do no processing on that mutli-channel Analog output. E.g., all speakers Large, equidistant, and with 0dB Volume trim. ARC will take it from there.


By the way, don't be too hard on the Anthem phone support guys. Simulplay is one of the least commonly used features. My guess is they didn't really grasp what you were TRYING to do.

--Bob


----------



## tspotorno

A little more information, and a clarification. I have a Oppo 105 connected to the projector.


When sending the signal thru the D2v without Passthru, the screen looks like it drags or studders and is very pixilated.

When I send the signal with passthru, it is better, but the video still studders somewhat or lags

When I send it directly from the Oppo to the projector, it is crystal clear!


I am not watching 3d material, just 2d to set everything up.


Oppo settings:


3D output Auto

TV Aspect Ratio 16:9 Wide/Auto

TV: NTSC

Output Resolution Auto

1080P24 Output: On

DVD 24p Conversion Off

HDMI Options: Auto,Auto, Off, Off, Auto


Audio Setup:

HDMI Audio Auto


D2v settings

Preferred: HDMI

Resl'n: 1920x1080p24

Color Space: HDTV

Data: Auto

Output: Auto

Letterbox: Black

Sync: Normal


For Passthru I use

Vid Out Cnfg: Through

Scaler Input HDMI1

Audio In: Dig HDMI


When I press select while watching the movie I get D2v 3D 3.09



Should I just use a separate HDMI cable from 105 to the vw1000 and set the Oppo to output to both the projector and the D2v?


----------



## dtich




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23541984
> 
> 
> rigmarole



HA! longtime lurker having to chime in to say bravo on use and spelling of one of my fav words! made my day. lol. how nerdy is that?


as you were...


ps - finally replacing my lex mc8B - served me super well for nigh on ten years now - with the d2v3d. very excited. out of the country but it's waiting for me to unpack at home. thanks for the terrific analysis and discussion on this board, and thanks also for being so courteous and adult, qualities not often in ample supply on the internets these days....



***

my system now:


anthem d2v3d

pioneer kuro 111pro plasma (still the best consumer directview to me, aside from dolby pro monitor etc..)

lexicon lx-5 amp for theatre zone; krell fpb400cx for stereo zone

thiel all around for the 5 and velodyne for the .1

dynaudio 3.4 in stereo room

denon 3800 brd

toshiba hddvd a1 something whatever it's called

pioneer ld/dvd-09 (i think, elite w wood sides..?) ld old school! one of the very first dvd players. got it in 97 i think.. still works!

dtv

apple tv (hdmi for apple tv, toslink for music playback thru dac)

wyred for sound dac1 for 2ch mx

jvc svhs (holding down the papers...)

sling box

ps3

t3 tuner i don't use anymore

itunes lossless music lib served from home automation master xserve in basement

transporter (slim devices) bedroom

linn klout

proac response 1sc

some other stuff here and there, other slim devices, airports for outside, etc, hafler and bose for outdoors..

***


can always upgrade but i've been steadily losing upgrade itis for a while now, pretty happy, don't need to be the best of the best, just really good, and that's good enough.. sometimes enough is enough. haven't really upgraded anything in three years or so until now with the anthem (was waiting patiently for lexicon to release a system w hd sound formats, etc.. but they took too long and have now lost the edge.. canadians overrunning the walls....)


thanks! sorry for ot bits....


----------



## Stevetd

Is it possible to use HDMI out 2 for Zone 2? It just seems dumb that you can't use a single HDMI cable instead of five other cables but, I can't see that you can. I am about to replace the display in my living room HT in a couple days. While I had the TV off the wall I was going to pull cables and put a TV in the bedroom that is on the other side of that wall. I don't need it to use a different source; I just want to be able to turn the sound off in Main. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23543128
> 
> 
> Is it possible to use HDMI out 2 for Zone 2? It just seems dumb that you can't use a single HDMI cable instead of five other cables but, I can't see that you can. I am about to replace the display in my living room HT in a couple days. While I had the TV off the wall I was going to pull cables and put a TV in the bedroom that is on the other side of that wall. I don't need it to use a different source; I just want to be able to turn the sound off in Main. Any suggestions would be appreciated.



Yes and no. The HDMI 2 output carries the same signal as HDMI 1 (except with no on-screen display overlays and no ability to use THROUGH mode, e.g., for 3D). Some people set up their Zone 2 to "Copy Main" which means that whatever Source is selected for Main also plays in Zone 2, and in that case the HDMI 2 output would work. But if you want to be able to select a DIFFERENT Source for Zone 2 than what's currently playing in Main, then you will need to use UNprocessed Component video, and you will be limited to viewing Sources that can send either Component or S-video to the Anthem (because HDMI input can not be "down-converted" to Component due to lack of copy protection on Component).


Now from the way you describe it, it sounds like you CAN use HDMI 2 as Copy Main for video. That lets you view your HDMI sources in the other room, so long as they are not set to use THROUGH for video. However, as I recall you may still need to wire a separate RCA pair for audio to have separate volume control as Zone 2. Look for an input on the TV described in its manual as for connection from DVI source devices -- where video and audio come into the TV separately.


The Main Path stereo down mix carried on HDMI 1 output is I believe also carried on HDMI 2. Volume in the Anthem does not affect the HDMI outputs -- volume control is done by whatever they are plugged into. But I'm not sure whether Mute applies to the HDMI outputs or not. That is, if you MUTE the Main Path, I'm not sure whether there's still audio on HDMI 2 for your TV to use. You'd have to do a trial hookup and check. If that's a problem you could just turn down Volume on main path. Meanwhile it the other room, since you are plugging into a TV, it will have its own Volume control, so you may very well not need Volume handled in the Anthem at all.


Obviously the thing to do is cart the other TV around to the main room, wire it up and try some experiments BEFORE you fish the cables through the walls. Start with just HDMI 2 and then add an RCA Zone 2 pair for audio if needed.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tspotorno*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23542194
> 
> 
> A little more information, and a clarification. I have a Oppo 105 connected to the projector.
> 
> 
> When sending the signal thru the D2v without Passthru, the screen looks like it drags or studders and is very pixilated.
> 
> When I send the signal with passthru, it is better, but the video still studders somewhat or lags
> 
> When I send it directly from the Oppo to the projector, it is crystal clear!
> 
> 
> I am not watching 3d material, just 2d to set everything up.
> 
> 
> Oppo settings:
> 
> 
> 3D output Auto
> 
> TV Aspect Ratio 16:9 Wide/Auto
> 
> TV: NTSC
> 
> Output Resolution Auto
> 
> 1080P24 Output: On
> 
> DVD 24p Conversion Off
> 
> HDMI Options: Auto,Auto, Off, Off, Auto
> 
> 
> Audio Setup:
> 
> HDMI Audio Auto
> 
> 
> D2v settings
> 
> Preferred: HDMI
> 
> Resl'n: 1920x1080p24
> 
> Color Space: HDTV
> 
> Data: Auto
> 
> Output: Auto
> 
> Letterbox: Black
> 
> Sync: Normal
> 
> 
> For Passthru I use
> 
> Vid Out Cnfg: Through
> 
> Scaler Input HDMI1
> 
> Audio In: Dig HDMI
> 
> 
> When I press select while watching the movie I get D2v 3D 3.09
> 
> 
> 
> Should I just use a separate HDMI cable from 105 to the vw1000 and set the Oppo to output to both the projector and the D2v?



While this could be a cabling issue (with the D2v in the path), my first thought is that your problem has to do with use of 1080p/24. I'm not familiar enough with that projector, but you may have set it up so that it can't handle 1080p/24 input properly.


Let's try to collect some more data to diagnose this. Try this:


Wire through the D2v.


Set the OPPO to explicit 1080p Resolution output (not AUTO or Source Direct) with 1080p/24 AUTO (not ON).


Set the OPPO to HDMI 1 Color Space YCbCr 4:4:4 (not AUTO). Double check that you are connected to the HDMI 1 output of the OPPO.


Set the OPPO to HDMI Audio LPCM.


Set the D2v to 1080p/60 output (not 1080p/24).


Set the D2v video Output to YCbCr 4:4:4 (not AUTO).


Try both processed and THROUGH in the D2v. If STILL having problems try the next steps which are to reduce bandwidth on the cables:


Set the D2v video Data to 8 Bit.


If still having problems:


Set the OPPO to 1080i/60 output Resolution


Set the D2v to 1080i/60 output Resolution.


If reducing the Deep Color or Resolution fixes the problem when the earlier steps did not, then that suggests there is an HDMI cabling issue when going through the D2v. Check sockets and plugs with a flashlight for signs of pin damage and make sure the plugs are FULLY inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets with nothing (e.g., cable weight or cable kinks) tugging them in any direction.


If you don't spot anything in the cabling, try viewing the built in test pattens in the D2v. Press and hold the "7" button until the Video Source Adjust menu appears. (Use Back button later to exit from it.) Scroll across the tabs at the top to Patterns and then scroll down to select the various test patterns. These are generated in the D2v independent of any Source device. Do they too show video problems on your projector? If so call Anthem Tech Support as your D2v may need service.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tspotorno*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23542194
> 
> 
> A little more information, and a clarification. I have a Oppo 105 connected to the projector.
> 
> 
> When sending the signal thru the D2v without Passthru, the screen looks like it drags or studders and is very pixilated.
> 
> When I send the signal with passthru, it is better, but the video still studders somewhat or lags
> 
> When I send it directly from the Oppo to the projector, it is crystal clear!
> 
> 
> I am not watching 3d material, just 2d to set everything up.
> 
> 
> Oppo settings:
> 
> 
> 3D output Auto
> 
> TV Aspect Ratio 16:9 Wide/Auto
> 
> TV: NTSC
> 
> Output Resolution Auto
> 
> 1080P24 Output: On
> 
> DVD 24p Conversion Off
> 
> HDMI Options: Auto,Auto, Off, Off, Auto
> 
> 
> Audio Setup:
> 
> HDMI Audio Auto
> 
> 
> D2v settings
> 
> Preferred: HDMI
> 
> Resl'n: 1920x1080p24
> 
> Color Space: HDTV
> 
> Data: Auto
> 
> Output: Auto
> 
> Letterbox: Black
> 
> Sync: Normal
> 
> 
> For Passthru I use
> 
> Vid Out Cnfg: Through
> 
> Scaler Input HDMI1
> 
> Audio In: Dig HDMI
> 
> 
> When I press select while watching the movie I get D2v 3D 3.09
> 
> 
> 
> Should I just use a separate HDMI cable from 105 to the vw1000 and set the Oppo to output to both the projector and the D2v?



I know Bob's suggestions were probably very appropriate this seems like a better and easier solution.

Go to this forum and ask your question of users of the Sony VPL-VW1000ES.

There are several who use the Anthem and the OPPO 105 and will be happy to describe the correct setup settings.

Your projector is capable of receiving any 1080P signal and upscalling it to 2160 (4K) as the Sony Reality Creation upscaler is one of the worlds best.

Sony VPL-vw1000 


And then return here and tell us what you did and how it worked.


Stew


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23543438
> 
> 
> Yes and no. The HDMI 2 output carries the same signal as HDMI 1 (except with no on-screen display overlays and no ability to use THROUGH mode, e.g., for 3D). Some people set up their Zone 2 to "Copy Main" which means that whatever Source is selected for Main also plays in Zone 2, and in that case the HDMI 2 output would work. But if you want to be able to select a DIFFERENT Source for Zone 2 than what's currently playing in Main, then you will need to use UNprocessed Component video, and you will be limited to viewing Sources that can send either Component or S-video to the Anthem (because HDMI input can not be "down-converted" to Component due to lack of copy protection on Component).
> 
> 
> Now from the way you describe it, it sounds like you CAN use HDMI 2 as Copy Main for video. That lets you view your HDMI sources in the other room, so long as they are not set to use THROUGH for video. However, as I recall you may still need to wire a separate RCA pair for audio to have separate volume control as Zone 2. Look for an input on the TV described in its manual as for connection from DVI source devices -- where video and audio come into the TV separately.
> 
> 
> The Main Path stereo down mix carried on HDMI 1 output is I believe also carried on HDMI 2. Volume in the Anthem does not affect the HDMI outputs -- volume control is done by whatever they are plugged into. But I'm not sure whether Mute applies to the HDMI outputs or not. That is, if you MUTE the Main Path, I'm not sure whether there's still audio on HDMI 2 for your TV to use. You'd have to do a trial hookup and check. If that's a problem you could just turn down Volume on main path. Meanwhile it the other room, since you are plugging into a TV, it will have its own Volume control, so you may very well not need Volume handled in the Anthem at all.
> 
> 
> Obviously the thing to do is cart the other TV around to the main room, wire it up and try some experiments BEFORE you fish the cables through the walls. Start with just HDMI 2 and then add an RCA Zone 2 pair for audio if needed.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thank you so much for your very informative post!


Steve


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23543515
> 
> 
> Set the OPPO to explicit 1080p Resolution output (not AUTO or Source Direct) with 1080p/24 AUTO (not ON).



Yes, with the Oppo set to AUTO and the Sony on the other end it's possible the Oppo was trying to upscale to 2160p and the Anthem can't handle it properly, even in Through mode.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23544438
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, with the Oppo set to AUTO and the Sony on the other end it's possible the Oppo was trying to upscale to 2160p and the Anthem can't handle it properly, even in Through mode.



Yes, The Anthem cannot pass 2160p (4K ) even in Through mode.I have tried it.


In fact, I think the Through mode is needed for Active shutter 3D and is not required for circular polarization (RealD) with passive glasses.

I regularly watch passive 3D from Comcast cable or from Blu Rays without using Through mode.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Bob and others,


This old time D2/D2V owner has not been keeping up on the forums for over a year. I'm in the midst of some home re-modeling, and now that the dust has settled (lterally), and been cleaned up rather nicely (pats himself on the back), I am finally ready to tackle getting my D2V up to date on software. You guys will laugh, but I'm still running 2.10 on my D2V. My question is what is the best most current public GA release for my D2V these days? BTW, I do NOT have the 3D board installed, I'm still one of these guys that did the 3D work-around going back a couple years, where I have a special "virtual" source that just takes the audio from my Oppo 95 and sends a direct signal to my Elite 70inch, for when I want to watch 3D only. Of course, for all normal 2D viewing, everything goes through the D2V. Since I've already wired the 25 foot cable from that Oppo to the Elite TV, I really don't feel any need to do the 3D board at present. I don't have any other 3D sources, not sure if any will come along that inspire me in the near future. Until one does, I'll probably stick to my "old fashioned plain old D2V".


Thanks for the input guys, all feedback welcome as always. I'm going to have to re-do ARC most likely, as we have some new Hunter Douglas motorized window treatments coming in soon, and that will surely change the acoustics in the room (for the better they tell me, we'll see!). I may add some corner traps and such as well.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The current official firmware for all D2v units (with or without the 3D upgrade) is V3.09. The current ARC application software for Windows is ARC V3.0.2. Both are on the normal, public download pages on the Anthem site.


Coming from old firmware, there's a small chance the video board won't program properly. Since you are on V2.10, I think you are already past the point where you have to worry about that, but if you DO run into a problem, Anthem Tech Support can sort it out for you. The trick is to do the firmware install on a weekday, so that you can reach them easily if need be. (Tell them what version you were coming FROM.)


Video Board Programming is done in multiple small steps, so don't be alarmed if you see what looks like the video board programming starting over and over and over again. That's normal. Expect an install that requires video board programming to take about 45 minutes.


In terms of the Beta releases (from their password protected download page), V3.09j is safe. Versions after that should NOT be used as they are currently working an issues that causes the surround speakers to lose audio. Right now they've got V3.09l (that "L" as in Lucy) on there and it should NOT be used.

--Bob


----------



## turk 182

I no longer have access to the PC I used to run ARC and PBK, I want to switch both from auto to flat in the target customization mode. Will I have to re ARC and PBK both using a new PC or is there a way to extract my current measurements and EQ from sub and AVM50 and then change target mode? Hope that makes sense.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23548618
> 
> 
> I no longer have access to the PC I used to run ARC and PBK, I want to switch both from auto to flat in the target customization mode. Will I have to re ARC and PBK both using a new PC or is there a way to extract my current measurements and EQ from sub and AVM50 and then change target mode? Hope that makes sense.



ARC (and I assume PBK) create a file for each run you complete and saves that file. If those files were not saved to a thumb drive or to your new pc then you are out of luck and will need to do new measurements.

If you mean by 'no longer have access' that your pc died then you are out of luck. But if the pc is still running but just not in your possession, and whoever has it can send you the files, then you don't have to re-run ARC. You can load the file on your new pc and open it in the ARC program.

ARC unfortunately only allows you to 'upload' from your pc to your AVM50. AFAIK there is no way to download the ARC file from your unit to your pc.


I'm pretty sure its time for you to get out the mic's and do a new ARC and PBK measurement.


Tom


----------



## turk 182

I believe your right, time for a lot of the bleeps and the sweeps!


----------



## tngiloy

If you have been thinking about making any changes to your speakers or room now is the time to do it. If you have any speakers that are not quite right, you can use Quick Measure to tweak. Or if you have been wanting to rearrange your furniture now is the time.


Don't look at is like 'Damn it, I have to run ARC again'










Take it as an opportunity to get your set-up even better. .










Tom


----------



## tngiloy

I have some questions about PBK.

I know it is a proprietary system sold with Paradigm subs, but is it usable with other brands of subs??


Does it work like ARC, where the solution is made in a pc then uploaded to the preamp/processor, or is it uploaded to a processor inside the sub?? In other words is the correction stored in the sub or the processor??


Does it tune dual subs to each other for phase and distance??


For a while between my D2 and D2v I had an Integra 80.3 that came with Audyssey xt32 and I later bought a pro-kit to use with it. The only advantage I found with Audyssey was its ability to tune dual subs. But it was a distinct advantage that ARC does not have.


Is it, or would it be possible to add PBK software to ARC and have the ability to balance dual subs??

Since the D2v, and probably other Anthem processors, have sub1 and sub2 connections is it able to send test signals to sub1 independantly from sub2 ??

If so It should be able to balance dual subs, with the proper software.


If Anthem were able to develop this, even if it meant a hardware change to wire the subs separately, it would make ARC the undisputed best room correction system available.


Just thinking out loud,


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Think of PBK as a Sub-only subset of ARC. Like ARC, the solution is built in your PC, and then Uploaded into the Sub for execution during listening.


So no, it won't work with other brands of Sub, since they don't have the smarts to run the Uploaded solution.


PBK operates on one Sub at a time, so you can build an independent solution for each Sub (which is a difference with respect to ARC), but those separate solutions don't adjust for interactions between the Subs. I.E., you still need to do each Sub's Phase adjustment manually.


PBK also doesn't know anything about your other speakers. So it doesn't modify its Sub solution to work better with your Main speakers.


You can combine PBK with ARC. To do that, run PBK first on each Sub, then adjust Phase for each Sub with respect to Left Front (which includes entering all the distances), then run ARC.


ARC will hear your Subs playing in combo -- each Sub's output improved by its individual PBK solution -- and will adjust the common Sub output to them from the Anthem along with the Main speaker outputs to improve the sound from all. That ARC solution gets Uploaded into the Anthem. The PBK solutions in each Sub remain unaltered.


The key is to Measure for ARC *AFTER* you've set up PBK for each Sub separately, and adjusted the Phase of each Sub separately.


Since ARC does its own correction for the combined output of the Subs, for many people just running ARC will be enough. But PBK improves the starting point ARC hears from each Sub. PBK is like adding additional correction resources to ARC. If your Subs don't need much correction ARC alone will handle it, but adding PBK doesn't hurt. If your Subs need a lot of correction, PBK may help ARC get there. PBK is more likely to help if you have more than one Sub, since it affects each Sub individually.


The hardware doesn't support different output on the Anthem's 4 Sub jacks. So the ARC solution can only include a common solution for the combined output of the Subs.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Bob,

Thanks for the explanation.

I guess I was hoping an Audyssey type of subwoofer solution could be built into Anthem/ARC hardware and firmware.


Maybe the D3v will have the necessary hardware to allow separate sub solutions.


FWIW in my experience ARC beats Audyssey hands down. But a lot of that is due to the fact that ARC is doing room correction thru an Anthem pre/pro.

The only thing that ARC is lacking is the multiple sub correction. Maybe next time.

I guess I can always try to find another SVS AS-EQ1.


I hope Anthem is listening.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I think you may be overstating the value of separate Sub solutions.


At bass frequencies, the most important thing -- by far -- is correcting the COMBINED output of the Subs and blending that well with the bass output of each Main speaker. And of course that's exactly what ARC does.


The one chore for the user is setting Sub Phase for each Sub. Phase is a function of Distance and so setting Phase automatically is tied up with setting Distance automatically. But automated systems for doing that often introduce errors.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41160#post_23546891
> 
> 
> ^ The current official firmware for all D2v units (with or without the 3D upgrade) is V3.09. The current ARC application software for Windows is ARC V3.0.2. Both are on the normal, public download pages on the Anthem site.
> 
> 
> Coming from old firmware, there's a small chance the video board won't program properly. Since you are on V2.10, I think you are already past the point where you have to worry about that, but if you DO run into a problem, Anthem Tech Support can sort it out for you. The trick is to do the firmware install on a weekday, so that you can reach them easily if need be. (Tell them what version you were coming FROM.)
> 
> 
> Video Board Programming is done in multiple small steps, so don't be alarmed if you see what looks like the video board programming starting over and over and over again. That's normal. Expect an install that requires video board programming to take about 45 minutes.
> 
> 
> In terms of the Beta releases (from their password protected download page), V3.09j is safe. Versions after that should NOT be used as they are currently working an issues that causes the surround speakers to lose audio. Right now they've got V3.09l (that "L" as in Lucy) on there and it should NOT be used.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I will upgrade tomorrow or Tuesday, thank you. What would be the recommended procedure these days for upgrading? Disconnect all HDMI sources? HDMI outputs? On a secondary issue, I am all of a sudden noticing that my Component Out (used for years for Zone 2 output) does not seem to work with sources like my DirecTV Tivo THR-22. I cannot seem to get output in that zone all of a sudden, despite having Component video outs from the Tivo to the D2V, along with Composite, HDMI, etc. I get audio, but no video in Zone 2. I also tried my Oppo 95 bluray for Zone 2 output, and it only works with DVD sources, not with Bluray sources. I could swear this was working when I put it all together. I am using the Oppo straight from its HDMI 1 output to send video to the Main Zone 1 TV, and only HDMI audio to the D2V. But of course the Component out from the Oppo does indeed go to the D2V, so that I can watch things in the Component-based Zone 2. Again, I can get DVD sources from it to work, and the Home menu, etc., but I cannnot get a 1080p source to Zone2, even when I specify in the Video Output of the Oppo to send only 720p, or 1080i. Normally I send 1080p for Video Output, again for the benefit of Zone1, but even dumbing it down to 720p doesn't help my Component signal in Zone 2. I get no video at all. Thoughts?


Thanks again,

Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ For the update, Save User Settings, then Reset Factory Defaults. Power down.


Remove wall power from ALL HDMI devices -- Sources and Displays.


Install the new firmware.


Reload Saved User Settings.


At this point I would also re-Upload my existing ARC solution, although that's not really necessary.


Power down and restore wall power to your HDMI devices.


Power up and scroll through Setup to see that all looks OK, then Save User Settings again to be sure you have captured whatever ARC Uploaded.


That's it.



Recheck your issues with Component after you have the new firmware in place. I suggest you try Component input to Main HDMI output first to see just what's coming in. Then try Zone 2 output.


Keep in mind that Component output will be limited from Sources when the content is copy protected.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

Hello,


Can I adjust the level calibration after ARC?


Thanks.


----------



## AVfile

The level of a speaker or the level of bass in general?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

For a particular program you can adjust speaker levels using the "temporary" level adjustment buttons near the Arrow keys. Such adjustments do not alter Setup > Level Calibration, but they ARE remembered per type of input audio format, so undo them while the same type of audio is playing so you don't screw up listening to other programs perhaps from other Sources.


If you want to make a general adjustment to bass, that should be done in ARC's Targets window. For example, raise or lower Room Gain a bit. Re-Calculate and re-Upload.


Do NOT change the Setup > Level Calibration values ARC Uploads.


To reduce bass for late night viewing Dolby Volume may help. It will let you lower main volume but still hear what's going on.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

Thanks Mr. Bob. Got it.


Another thing, after ARC, can I adjust/alter the subwoofer volume directly from the subs volume or it is not allowed to adjust too?


Adjusting the Room Gain will be trial and error? Normally what increment do you adjust? Currently my room gain is 2.727434db


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If you change the Volume knob on the Sub you will have to re-Measure for ARC and it will just counter what you've done.


What are you trying to accomplish? You may simply need some time to get used to what calibrated audio sounds like, and that some movies have badly authored audio -- e.g., way too much bass.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

Because I feel the bass needs to be hotter, I guess.


----------



## AVfile

That's what I thought. So "room gain" in the ARC Targets window is what you may wish to play with, as Bob suggested. Bump it up by just a small amount (try a value of 4dB) to avoid over-driving your woofers. Re-calculate and upload the new solution. No need to re-measure that way, and you won't "break" the ARC solution since you have now been instructed to stay out of the Setup > Level Calibration menu in the Anthem


----------



## pinoy ako

Thanks a lot guys, I will try all your recommendations.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Also check that Polarity & Phase are correct for your Sub. You may be getting cancellation with the bass from the main speakers.


If you have only one Sub you can do that without having to do anything else. The ARC solution will still be good, it will just sound better.


If you have more than one Sub then adjust Phase independently for each (one Sub powered at a time) and after they are all set, then re-Measure for ARC. ARC hears the combined output of the Subs, so if you alter their relative Phase you have to re-Measure.


Lastly, if you have more than one Sub, make sure the speaker configuration in the Anthem says "1 Sub" nonetheless. Otherwise the Sub Volume Trim ARC Uploads won't be applied correctly.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

My subs were lacking punch also until I turned the rears to 180. After that, I ran ARC and have no need to bump up my subs like I used to. Multiple sub set ups are tricky. Another thing to check is the distance setting of the subs. I adjusted mine from 10 feet all the way to 20 feet ( through trial and error ) and now they sound terrific.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Setting a "false" distance is just another way to approach setting Phase.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41190#post_23553418
> 
> 
> ^ Setting a "false" distance is just another way to approach setting Phase.
> 
> --Bob


 

That's what the AS-EQ1 does as well as the manual procedure in my sig...


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41190#post_23553418
> 
> 
> ^ Setting a "false" distance is just another way to approach setting Phase.
> 
> --Bob



I also adjusted my sub distance setting using a tone disc and setting the distance to get the maximum spl at the crossover that ARC chose and it sounds great. dmusoke has a good method for setting phase by changing sub distance linked to the bottom of his posts.


Am I correct in assuming that the speaker/sub distances setting can be changed after running ARC ??

I assumed since ARC measures 1 speaker at a time that it could be changed post-ARC. Might sound like a dumb question, but I just want to make sure.


Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes, speaker distances values can be altered without having to redo ARC. So long as the actual speaker positioning itself isn't changed.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41190#post_23553640
> 
> 
> That's what the AS-EQ1 does as well as the manual procedure in my sig...



Hey David !


Yes, the AS-EQ1 and Audyssey both set 'false' distances for the subs as a pair, and also sets different distances for each individual sub to compensate for phase differences between the two subs.

I found the speaker distance settings that Audyssey chose for my speakers to be spot on when checked with a tape measure, but the sub distance was always off, as it should have been to set the phase correctly.


Not to sound like a broken record, but I bet Anthem can figure out a way to do that for ARC. It really is nice not to have to do the extra fiddling around.


Tom


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41190#post_23553690
> 
> 
> ^ Yes, speaker distances values can be altered without having to redo ARC. So long as the actual speaker positioning itself isn't changed.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the reassurance, Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

How do you measure the speakers and sub distance wrt LP? Are you measuring from face of the speaker, middle of the speaker or just rough distance to LP? And also, for dual subs with different location, should i average the distance between the two or should i use the farther or the nearer sub?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Center of speaker grill to ARC mic position #1 with a steel tape held taught -- bring a friend.


For the Subs enter the average of their positions.


If using Phase controls on each Sub, adjust Phase AFTER entering the distances. While you are at it, i.e., with one Sub powered at a time, also check that they are balanced for Volume. With two Subs, set each to 72dB to get a combined 75dB. Then re-Measure for ARC.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

Thanks Mr Bob. I am not changing the phase and polarity, i just used 0 for both subs.

My subs are located just beside the speaker and equidistant to LP. See below pix. Do you think im fine using zerofor phase and polarity?

 


When i am checking the SPL of the subs, i cannot get the 72db, i am getting 69 71 72 73 74, it is not fix at 72. So how do you know? Should i wait for a while (1 minute) when reading the SPL?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You are probably fine for Polarity/Phase, but of course there's no way to know for sure unless you check.


Use "Slow" Response on the SPL meter and mentally average the Sub readings. They will bounce around a bit.


The precise value is not that important as ARC adjusts the combined volume trim for the Subs. Concentrate on getting the same volume from each Sub so they are contributing equally to the combined bass output.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

Ok Thanks. I am using "slow" and "C"


Do the speaker cable length has anything to do with speaker distance settings?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ No. Electrical signals travel at the speed of light. You'd need tremendously long cables (think miles) before you'd notice anything. Speaker distance adjusts for the travel time of the sound through the air from each speaker.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

Forgive me if I've asked this but with Blu Rays through the Oppo , should I use the Through setting on the Anthem Video settings or what is preferable ? I forget and can't find it.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41070#post_23524600
> 
> 
> ^ We've had mixed reports posted here of whether or not Windows 8 actually works with ARC. At this point I believe Anthem thinks it DOES work with ARC, but clearly there's something up here.
> 
> 
> I don't think this has been nailed down yet, but if you have access to a Windows 7 or Windows XP computer I suggest you install ARC on that and redo your ARC setup.
> 
> 
> If you find the other computer works OK (gets you a solution just above 70dB without the excess ambient noise warnings), please do send an email to Anthem Tech Support with the details on your specific Windows 8 computer and configuration along with the info about what ARC did on Windows 8 compared to the other computer.
> 
> 
> In fact if you look up a few posts here you'll find a follow up from another guy who's having problems with ARC on Windows 8. The 2 of you might want to exchange some PMs to see if you can spot a similarity in your Windows setups that might be out of the norm for other Windows 8 users.
> 
> 
> 
> I do NOT think the solution you've got now is unusable for listening tests. It's just the frustration of getting there in the first place.
> 
> --Bob



What guy might that be?


From anthem tech support

On 2013-03-26 11:32 AM

"just advising that a new file has been opened with engineering with the issue reported issue. Hope to hear some info soon."


I have requested if it is reproducible at their end (a number of times) and to date have not received a response. Now my emails go unanswered like I am stone walled. It is turning into anthems dirty little secret. Why not tell me if they can reproduce it after 5 months? No one have a windows 8 laptop there? Maybe they can borrow one and spend the 15 minutes.


Regards


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I've got no inside track to their internal testing. But the impression I got from Nick way back when this first came up was that they HAVE tested Windows 8 and are not seeing the problem.


If that's correct then what's needed is to isolate what's different between your Windows 8 setup and theirs.


Whatever's really going on internally, I suggest you just try again with them. I.E., just assume it dropped through a crack and raise it again. Nothing gained by getting frustrated. Just squeak the wheel again.


Try phoning.


I have separately alerted Nick that there's more than one person here suffering with this.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

1. How do you place the mic after the first measure of ARC? When i used audissey xt32 few months back, i placed the mic left n right and infront of 1st position(1.5ft).

2. Do you measure 5 locations only or should i use all available position? Any advantage if i use all mic position?


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23558001
> 
> 
> 1. How do you place the mic after the first measure of ARC? When i used audissey xt32 few months back, i placed the mic left n right and infront of 1st position(1.5ft).
> 
> 2. Do you measure 5 locations only or should i use all available position? Any advantage if i use all mic position?




Read pages 46-49 of the manual. All ARC info.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23558001
> 
> 
> 1. How do you place the mic after the first measure of ARC? When i used audissey xt32 few months back, i placed the mic left n right and infront of 1st position(1.5ft).
> 
> 2. Do you measure 5 locations only or should i use all available position? Any advantage if i use all mic position?



The default 5 mic positions is more than adequate for most rooms. I have never done more than 5 myself and have always been happy with my ARC results. People with large HT's with several rows of theater seating may find using the additional mic positions useful.

How large is your listening area ?? How many people usually are there ?? What is the seating situation ??


There are different opinions on the mic positions, but the configuration you describe is fine. The idea is to get a good sampling of the listening area.

First position should always be a the MLP, at ear height, with the mic pointed straight-up, making sure that you have a foot or so clearance from walls or cushions behind. The other positions should be at least 1.5 ft, but 2-3 ft might be better. If there are multiple seats used for listening then you should sample at those positions. If you have just one or two seats used, then work around those seats. I have basically one seat used, since its usually just me listening to music (wife says its too loud) or we share the same seat at the MLP when watching movies together . You need to decide what's best for your room and audience to decide what positions, and how many positions, to use.


I have been using a 'baseball diamond' configuration with very good results. MLP being the pitcher, with positions to the left and right (like 1st and 3rd base) and in front and behind (home plate and 2nd base). I have a small HT --11 x 18 ft-- and use about 2 ft between positions. Works great for me, but make your decision according to your situation. YMMV.


Tom


----------



## pinoy ako

@tngiloy


Thank you very much for the usual support. I have a single seat too, so maybe I will try that " diamond" configuration.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23558467
> 
> 
> @tngiloy
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for the usual support. I have a single seat too, so maybe I will try that " diamond" configuration.



Just remember to not do too tight of a grouping.

ARC is 'room correction'. It needs to get a good measurement of the room. Use at least 2 ft between measurement locations.


I tried a tight grouping when I first got ARC years ago, thinking that 'Hey, this is my spot. I'll measure here.' It didn't work.


Tom


----------



## dtich

on this topic, does anyone know what the arc algorithm does with regards to the main listening position? is it/how much is it weighted versus the other positions in making the final correction curves?


thanks.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dtich*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23562012
> 
> 
> on this topic, does anyone know what the arc algorithm does with regards to the main listening position? is it/how much is it weighted versus the other positions in making the final correction curves?
> 
> 
> thanks.


*A WELL KEPT SECRET*


----------



## dtich

ya. assumed so. just curious. ok. thx.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ One thing that's known for sure is that the Measurements for ARC mic position #1 are the ones used to set the speaker volume trims.


That alone is reason enough to insure it is at the center of your listening area.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan

So I just completed a successful upgrade to 3.09 from the ancient 2.10 that I had been running for years on my D2V. Things look good, but can't say I notice any differences really. But glad to be up to date regardless. One thing I've noticed, that I never noticed before but may have been there all along - if you bring up the Video processor setup on screen while watching for instance broadcast TV via DirecTV at least, I notice under the "Info" tab that tells you what all the current signals are, that the Film Mode changes periodically on its own, from On to Off, even while watching the same program. This has been confirmed with many different TV stations of varying resolutions, though mostly HD. For instance, tonight The Bourne Legacy is playing in HD on HBO2 HD channel on DirecTV, and while watching the movie, the Film Mode detect under Info keeps changing from On to Off to On to Off, at varying times in the broadcast. Is this normal?? I have Film Mode set to the Default "Auto Detect" setting, as recommended in the Manual.


Let me know your thoughts please.


Thanks!

-Brian


----------



## dmusoke


The flip flopping has been around for generations AFAIK...Have seen and observed it from the start about 6 years ago. I just ignore it.


----------



## Kensmith48

I ran arc about a week ago and I thought I'd see what the speaker levels were at. The right rear was N/A. I checked the settings and it was set at Dipole 6.1. I thought I had it set at Dipole 7.1 which is what I wanted. I set it to 7.1 and ran arc again and it came up with the 6.1 set again with the R/R listed as N/A again. The only thing that I can figure out is that in the arc menu instead of choosing 1 in the box I should choose 2. I thought the box was for the subwoofer, but it seems it's for the rear surrounds. Is this correct? I have 2 subs but it seems the box is for the rears. The instructions for arc are some of the worst I've seen. It would be great if everything in the menu was explained.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23566722
> 
> 
> I ran arc about a week ago and I thought I'd see what the speaker levels were at. The right rear was N/A. I checked the settings and it was set at Dipole 6.1. I thought I had it set at Dipole 7.1 which is what I wanted. I set it to 7.1 and ran arc again and it came up with the 6.1 set again with the R/R listed as N/A again. The only thing that I can figure out is that in the arc menu instead of choosing 1 in the box I should choose 2. I thought the box was for the subwoofer, but it seems it's for the rear surrounds. Is this correct? I have 2 subs but it seems the box is for the rears. The instructions for arc are some of the worst I've seen. It would be great if everything in the menu was explained.



Yes, that's exactly what's happening. That box in the selections prior to ARC Measurement is for specifying whether you have 1 Rear speaker or 2. If you have 1, then the test is done using the Left Rear output.


Change the Speaker Configuration in the Anthem back to 7.1 (i.e, 2 Rear speakers). Set the separation distance between the 2 Rear speakers appropriately, and redo your ARC Measurements telling it this time that you have 2 Rear speakers. Note that you have to reconfigure back to 2 Rears in the Anthem *BEFORE* doing the ARC stuff as otherwise ARC won't be able to produce the test sweep tones for the Right Rear speaker.


ARC does not need to know how many Subs you have, because the hardware provides no way for it to test them separately. ARC treats your entire set of Subs as a single, Sub "combo". The one thing you do need to do however is set the speaker configuration in the Anthem to "1 Sub", even though you have more than one. The Sub Volume Trim that ARC Uploads is calculated assuming that "1 Sub" will be set in the Anthem. (The only effect setting "2 Subs" has is altering how that Sub Volume Trim is interpreted, so there's no problem fibbing to the Anthem that you only have "1 Sub" when using ARC.)

--Bob


----------



## turk 182

I just reARCed my AVM50v and switched sub to flat from auto and what a difference it has made. Wish I knew this a long time ago. Any other suggestions for ARC settings to make it sound even better?


For mic placement I basically used 6 placements; middle of couch, left and right edge of couch and the same settings behind the couch, center, left, right.


ARC set my sub at -9.5 while Left is -.5 center is -2.5 right is 0 and left rear +2.5 and right rear is -.5. I wonder why sub is set so low.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Presumably because you have the Sub's own volume knob turned up more than is needed.

--Bob


----------



## turk 182

Set at the indention


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23568217
> 
> 
> Set at the indention




You were supposed to set the sub level at 75db. Not where the sub manfacturer has made volume marks


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23570123
> 
> 
> But this one goes to 11!




Nice!!


----------



## gerard1meehan

I am running 3.09l and I noticed something new while playing a blu ray. The Audio was listed as DTS-HD-LBR (low bit rate)


I do not believe I had seen that before. Or has it always been how it was listed?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23574140
> 
> 
> I am running 3.09l and I noticed something new while playing a blu ray. The Audio was listed as DTS-HD-LBR (low bit rate)
> 
> 
> I do not believe I had seen that before. Or has it always been how it was listed?



Check if you have secondary audio turned on. That can cause DTS-HD LBR. which is not DTS-HD Master Lossless audio codec

And are you using HDMI and not another type of digital connection ?


----------



## gerard1meehan

I am using an HDMI, and I also checked to make sure the secondary audio was off. I will double check this evening


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23574444
> 
> 
> I am using an HDMI, and I also checked to make sure the secondary audio was off. I will double check this evening



Make sure that secondary audio is turned off in whatever player you are using.

There is a possibility it is the BluRay disc you are using. Test with an alternate disc.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23574140
> 
> 
> I am running 3.09l and I noticed something new while playing a blu ray. The Audio was listed as DTS-HD-LBR (low bit rate)
> 
> 
> I do not believe I had seen that before. Or has it always been how it was listed?



What disc were you playing??

It's possible that its specific to this disc and not your settings. If someone else has that disc we can check.

I have never seen that DTS-HD-LBR on my display before. Its a new one to me.

If its using the core audio, like when secondary audio is on, I think it shows up as DTS 5.1 or DD5.1. I have to check that out since I never use secondary audio.


Tom


----------



## gerard1meehan

The disk was Doctor Who season. 5. It seems it is disk specific as other blu rays come up correctly


Audio on the box says DTS HD 5.1


Interesting


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DTS-HD LBR is the lower bit rate lossy format used to encode the stereo "secondary audio" on some Blu-ray discs. If can also be used to encode up to 5.1 channels (lossy) intended to be output as a DTS "compatibility" track for Optical/Coax SPDIF connections.


It appears that either the disc, or your settings, were resulting in compatibility track output. Perhaps you had your video resolution from the player set to lower than 720p?

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23575994
> 
> 
> The disk was Doctor Who season. 5. It seems it is disk specific as other blu rays come up correctly
> 
> 
> Audio on the box says DTS HD 5.1
> 
> 
> Interesting





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23576513
> 
> 
> DTS-HD LBR is the lower bit rate lossy format used to encode the stereo "secondary audio" on some Blu-ray discs. If can also be used to encode up to 5.1 channels (lossy) intended to be output as a DTS "compatibility" track for Optical/Coax SPDIF connections.
> 
> 
> It appears that either the disc, or your settings, were resulting in compatibility track output. Perhaps you had your video resolution from the player set to lower than 720p?
> 
> --Bob



If you want to investigate further.

Download a program (Shareware) called Media Info here. Media Info 

Run the program for the particular disc having the audio problem and another that works properly and check the audio format on the disc.

Let us know what you find


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23576513
> 
> 
> DTS-HD LBR is the lower bit rate lossy format used to encode the stereo "secondary audio" on some Blu-ray discs. If can also be used to encode up to 5.1 channels (lossy) intended to be output as a DTS "compatibility" track for Optical/Coax SPDIF connections.
> 
> 
> It appears that either the disc, or your settings, were resulting in compatibility track output. Perhaps you had your video resolution from the player set to lower than 720p?
> 
> --Bob




I am trying to rack it down. The DTS web page gave me the same description. But I did review the settings on my OPPO 83 and Secondary audio was off and I am using Source direct vidieo and Bitstream audio.


I did serch the disk but no further info


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23576881
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to investigate further.
> 
> Download a program (Shareware) called Media Info here. Media Info
> 
> Run the program for the particular disc having the audio problem and another that works properly and check the audio format on the disc.
> 
> Let us know what you find



My laptop does not have a blu ray reader player


----------



## Kimeran

Can you choose a target frequency response curve with ARC?


I want to be able to set up my system to go along with Floyd Toole's house curve so the frequency response is actually downward slopping as you move from 0-20khz.


I was going through the manual and did not notice anything that mentioned this but it is very possible that I missed it.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kimeran*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23577676
> 
> 
> Can you choose a target frequency response curve with ARC?
> 
> 
> I want to be able to set up my system to go along with Floyd Toole's house curve so the frequency response is actually downward slopping as you move from 0-20khz.
> 
> 
> I was going through the manual and did not notice anything that mentioned this but it is very possible that I missed it.



He-L NO.


You can not improve on PERFECTION.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23577587
> 
> 
> I am trying to rack it down. The DTS web page gave me the same description. But I did review the settings on my OPPO 83 and Secondary audio was off and I am using Source direct vidieo and Bitstream audio.


Next time it happens press Status or touch the volume control. It might just be a display glitch. I've seen it appear momentarily before.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23575994
> 
> 
> The disk was Doctor Who season. 5. It seems it is disk specific as other blu rays come up correctly
> 
> 
> Audio on the box says DTS HD 5.1
> 
> 
> Interesting





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23578684
> 
> 
> Next time it happens press Status or touch the volume control. It might just be a display glitch. I've seen it appear momentarily before.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23577596
> 
> 
> My laptop does not have a blu ray reader player



I tried to get it from Netflix but they do not list that disc,

If you want to send the disc to me I would be willing to run Media File on it and see what it reveals and also see if I have the same audio output.


I also have a OPPO 83 and a D2v 3D running 3.09


----------



## gerard1meehan

I just might send it. A friend has a laptop with a blu ray player and I will try that.


But I watched disk 4 of season 5 last night and the same results. I double checked everything. When I press the select button it displays:


DTS-HD-Low Bit Rate

48 nps




If I turn on Secondary Audio is just says DTS with no HD prefix after it. I did look on the publisher’s web page and nothing. I have watched this disk many times before and it did not come up with DTS-HD-LBR. I am curious that since I am using a Beta Firmwear that includes the new “DTS” authentications that it might be the reason behind the new listing


----------



## AVfile

I would send the disc info to Oppo and Anthem and leave it at that. If you come across more that do this then please post. I only have Dr Who Complete Specials.


----------



## gerard1meehan

I tried my copy of the complete specials and thar also produced the same DTS-HD-low bit rate


----------



## gerard1meehan

  



this is a screenshot


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23586624
> 
> 
> I tried my copy of the complete specials and thar also produced the same DTS-HD-low bit rate



I sent you a PM


----------



## Texas steve


Bob, any update on the Beta Software since the issues of no rears?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Not that I've heard.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

I have a movie, iron man 1 in dolby true HD, when I am watching it, it seems the sound of the movie is low and i have to increase the volume..same with other movies like batman begins in dolby true hd...the files are MKV playing in my CAPS v3 ZUMA server. But my other MKV movies with DTS-HD or DTS-MA they are sounding fine...when I used my onkyo receiver 3009 previously, the sound is loud playing dolby True-HD.


Does anyone notice this when playing some movies with Dolby True-HD? It seems like the bass is coming under a deep well....but DTS-HD or DTS-MA its fine...weird..










Thanks a lot.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23588638
> 
> 
> I have a movie, iron man 1 in dolby true HD, when I am watching it, it seems the sound of the movie is low and i have to increase the volume..same with other movies like batman begins in dolby true hd...the files are MKV playing in my CAPS v3 ZUMA server. But my other MKV movies with DTS-HD or DTS-MA they are sounding fine...when I used my onkyo receiver 3009 previously, the sound is loud playing dolby True-HD.
> 
> 
> Does anyone notice this when playing some movies with Dolby True-HD? It seems like the bass is coming under a deep well....but DTS-HD or DTS-MA its fine...weird..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot.


D2v? what version software?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23588638
> 
> 
> I have a movie, iron man 1 in dolby true HD, when I am watching it, it seems the sound of the movie is low and i have to increase the volume..same with other movies like batman begins in dolby true hd...the files are MKV playing in my CAPS v3 ZUMA server. But my other MKV movies with DTS-HD or DTS-MA they are sounding fine...when I used my onkyo receiver 3009 previously, the sound is loud playing dolby True-HD.
> 
> 
> Does anyone notice this when playing some movies with Dolby True-HD? It seems like the bass is coming under a deep well....but DTS-HD or DTS-MA its fine...weird..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot.



if you copied the BD disc to a file, what software did you use ,and which audio file did you choose for the audio ?


----------



## pinoy ako




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23588702
> 
> 
> D2v? what version software?



I have d2v3d software is 3.09. I also installed 3.09l....the same sound...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23588756
> 
> 
> if you copied the BD disc to a file, what software did you use ,and which audio file did you choose for the audio ?



The MKV was downloaded from torrent..normal mkv download...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23587512
> 
> 
> Bob, any update on the Beta Software since the issues of no rears?


Nick just mentioned in passing that the fix is pending on some vacation schedules. (E.g., the people to fix it and then test it.)

--Bob


----------



## gerard1meehan

Ok update on my DTS-HD- Low bit rate issue.


I rolled back my firmwear to 3.09 from 3.09l and it is back to showing DTS-HD High Resolution


Now the information on the Audio is the same between the two when I bring up the OSD info page. I will chck the disk as you recomended tomorrow, and forward all info to Anthem


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ There are changes specific to DTS incorporated AFTER v3.09. The firmware with those changes passed DTS "certification". So the odds are this is an authoring error on the disc which gets exposed by the newly certified DTS decoder in the later firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23588638
> 
> 
> I have a movie, iron man 1 in dolby true HD, when I am watching it, it seems the sound of the movie is low and i have to increase the volume..same with other movies like batman begins in dolby true hd...the files are MKV playing in my CAPS v3 ZUMA server. But my other MKV movies with DTS-HD or DTS-MA they are sounding fine...when I used my onkyo receiver 3009 previously, the sound is loud playing dolby True-HD.
> 
> 
> Does anyone notice this when playing some movies with Dolby True-HD? It seems like the bass is coming under a deep well....but DTS-HD or DTS-MA its fine...weird..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot.



Iron Man 1 had a glitch in its authoring that automatically enabled midnight mode in Dolby Decoders. This is probably the case. It kills the dynamic range. I don't know if this is actually embedded in the MKV or the Anthem is responding to the flag but that is likely the issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ To test that, set the OPPO to LPCM output (so it is doing its own decoding of the TrueHD) and also set Dynamic Range Control OFF in the OPPO.


Then change to Dynamic Range Control AUTO (still with LPCM output). If you hear the same degradation of audio quality, then this is exactly what's going on -- bogus Dynamic Range meta-data in the track authoring is screwing up the playback.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Bob, so with the Oppo decoding it can be turned off but not with the Anthem?


Pinoy, did you ever touch the speaker level trims on the fly? check that your trims are zeroed out for both Dolby and DTS modes.


----------



## pinoy ako




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23590435
> 
> 
> Iron Man 1 had a glitch in its authoring that automatically enabled midnight mode in Dolby Decoders. This is probably the case. It kills the dynamic range. I don't know if this is actually embedded in the MKV or the Anthem is responding to the flag but that is likely the issue.



Thanks a lot for the info. Currently i am downloading another iron man 1 (MKV) but this time, the audio is DTS. I will compare and report back.


----------



## pinoy ako




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23590799
> 
> 
> Bob, so with the Oppo decoding it can be turned off but not with the Anthem?
> 
> 
> Pinoy, did you ever touch the speaker level trims on the fly? check that your trims are zeroed out for both Dolby and DTS modes.



I am not adjusting any level trim on the remote. its all 0 DB...anyway I think mr kris deering provide an info about iron man 1...I will try my other movies with Doby True-HD if they have the same issue and report back. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23590799
> 
> 
> Bob, so with the Oppo decoding it can be turned off but not with the Anthem?
> 
> 
> . . . .



As far as I know, with this particular track authoring error there's no way to prevent the Anthem from getting confused if you use Bitstream input of the lossless track. If you can't get LPCM input, another workaround would be to enable Secondary Audio Mixing, which would get you a lossy, re-encoded track which likely would not be affected by this authoring error (assuming the player is not already confused by it). Of course Analog input from a player also works like LPCM -- i.e., the player is doing the decoding of the Bitstream.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23588773
> 
> 
> I have d2v3d software is 3.09. I also installed 3.09l....the same sound...
> 
> The MKV was downloaded from torrent..normal mkv download...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23590830
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot for the info. Currently i am downloading another iron man 1 (MKV) but this time, the audio is DTS. I will compare and report back.



Two concerns about this problem and you should be aware of:


Downloading someone else's pirated MKV from a torrent is inclined to have all types of technical glitches such as you are experiencing.

They may have not used the best software and you may get poor video even at 1080P and you have no way of knowing exactly which audio codec they are using.

And with MKV you have no way to select any of the optional features from the original Blu Ray

This conversation of files obtained from a torrent site of this type may be a violation of the AVS rules and regulations.

You open yourself to a huge number of virus's and other types of computer problems when running these types of files.

Many have said they had no problems experienced until the fatal day arrives


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23591713
> 
> 
> Downloading someone else's pirated MKV from a torrent is inclined to have all types of technical glitches such as you are experiencing.


*3 CHEERS and 3 THUMBS UP ^^^* for thestewman


----------



## pinoy ako




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23591713
> 
> 
> 
> Two concerns about this problem and you should be aware of:
> 
> 
> Downloading someone else's pirated MKV from a torrent is inclined to have all types of technical glitches such as you are experiencing.
> 
> They may have not used the best software and you may get poor video even at 1080P and you have no way of knowing exactly which audio codec they are using.
> 
> And with MKV you have no way to select any of the optional features from the original Blu Ray
> 
> This conversation of files obtained from a torrent site of this type may be a violation of the AVS rules and regulations.
> 
> You open yourself to a huge number of virus's and other types of computer problems when running these types of files.
> 
> Many have said they had no problems experienced until the fatal day arrives



To moderator:


If you feel my reply here was against the rule of AVS, please delete it. You know better than me. But I am not promoting any piracy here.


I just want to share the experience the problems I am facing with MKV used as a source. Maybe because of this, the software for anthem will be more flexible. If other people are facing this problem too, they know what to do.


Sorry about that guys. Please do the needful.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23591916
> 
> 
> To moderator:
> 
> 
> If you feel my reply here was against the rule of AVS, please delete it. You know better than me. But I am not promoting any piracy here.
> 
> 
> I just want to share the experience the problems I am facing with MKV used as a source. Maybe because of this, the software for anthem will be more flexible. If other people are facing this problem too, they know what to do.
> 
> 
> Sorry about that guys. Please do the needful.



Pinoy ako


Please do not be offended by my comments. I did not mean to incur you were doing anything wrong.

Much of the material on torrents is made available contrary to copyright and other laws and may be illegal in some countries and discussion or working on it on AVS may be contrary to AVS rules.

And primarily I was suggesting that persons who allow others to obtain this material may not have taken the time to copy it with the care necessary to obtain good qualities.

The ripping/copy software available may not allow the copier to select the most optimum audio file necessary to ensure good quality and maybe they might or have

selected the lowest quality multi channel that was available on the disc because it was the smallest download size. not because of any good audio qualities.

I have several hundred dvd and Bluray files for my own use.

I always take the time to use the highest quality video and audio codec available on the disc I am copying for my own use. Either a BluRay Folder copy( BDMV). M2TS, or an MKV file.

There is also the person or persons on the internet out to destroy whatever system they can gain access to by downloading their video file so they can do their harm.

In regards to the D2v or other Anthem unit, it is doing exactly what it was designed to do which is playback whatever you feed it to play. And apparently I would surmise

the video file you are attempting to use has only a low bit rate audio file to save downloading time and storage.

Until you can possibly run the file with Media Info you will not know for sure what is available on the file you downloaded.




.


----------



## spiderv6

Downloading a torrent of a movie that you haven't paid for is illegal. Even if you were just "testing something".


I pay for all the movies I buy, and they are more expensive than they should be because other people steal them.


We should not support anyone who freely admits to doing this.


My 2c...........................


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23594158
> 
> 
> Downloading a torrent of a movie that you haven't paid for is illegal. Even if you were just "testing something".
> 
> 
> I pay for all the movies I buy, and they are more expensive than they should be because other people steal them.
> 
> 
> We should not support anyone who freely admits to doing this.
> 
> 
> My 2c...........................



+1


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23594158
> 
> 
> Downloading a torrent of a movie that you haven't paid for is illegal. Even if you were just "testing something".
> 
> 
> I pay for all the movies I buy, and they are more expensive than they should be because other people steal them.
> 
> 
> We should not support anyone who freely admits to doing this.
> 
> 
> My 2c...........................


*3 CHEERS and 3 THUMBS UP ^^^* for spiderv6


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23575994
> 
> 
> The disk was Doctor Who season. 5. It seems it is disk specific as other blu rays come up correctly
> 
> 
> Audio on the box says DTS HD 5.1
> 
> 
> Interesting


According to the review at Blu-ray.com, >>The Complete Fifth Series also features a brawny DTS-HD High Resolution 5.1 surround track (at 2.0Mbps)


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23594434
> 
> 
> According to the review at Blu-ray.com, >>The Complete Fifth Series also features a brawny DTS-HD High Resolution 5.1 surround track (at 2.0Mbps)


----------



## pinoy ako




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23594158
> 
> 
> Downloading a torrent of a movie that you haven't paid for is illegal. Even if you were just "testing something".
> 
> 
> I pay for all the movies I buy, and they are more expensive than they should be because other people steal them.
> 
> 
> We should not support anyone who freely admits to doing this.
> 
> 
> My 2c...........................



Please don't be a hypocrite. I was not born yesterday. "Anyone who has no sin in their life should step forward and throw the first stone" I hope you know this phrase...


I already asked the moderator to delete that reply and asked sorry about it. What else do you want?Its just a small mistake and you want to stage a skirmish here?


We should be enjoying our gears and not judging people.


I don't want to derail anymore this very nice thread who help people and love Anthem gears.


Peace.....


----------



## AVfile

I wouldn't waste any more time or bandwidth downloading files of unknown origin. You should be able to pickup the disc for $5-10 in a bargain bin. Make your own MKV if you must. Then report back.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41250#post_23590839
> 
> 
> I am not adjusting any level trim on the remote. its all 0 DB...anyway I think mr kris deering provide an info about iron man 1...I will try my other movies with Doby True-HD if they have the same issue and report back. Thanks.



I'll have to try this disc again, but I don't recall having to turn up the volume like you said (is this the only problem with the sound?) and I used to play it for demos.


----------



## gerard1meehan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23594518
> 
> 
> 
> I am still willing to test it, We have similar systems and we may be able to find out why the disc is troublesome.
> 
> 
> Stew



Stew,


Of course my friend with the laptop never stopped by. But You mentioned in a previous post you have the Blu ray " Complete Specials" . I tested those disks as well and I got the same results. If you could take a look at those disks it would probably give us an answer. I also tried the Region B of series 6, and the same LBR. Perhaps Bob is correct and it is a DTS authoring issue.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23597370
> 
> 
> Stew,
> 
> 
> Of course my friend with the laptop never stopped by. But You mentioned in a previous post you have the Blu ray " Complete Specials" . I tested those disks as well and I got the same results. If you could take a look at those disks it would probably give us an answer. I also tried the Region B of series 6, and the same LBR. Perhaps Bob is correct and it is a DTS authoring issue.



Check PM


----------



## tngiloy

I recently replaced my D2 with a used D2v.

Both had ARC kits with their own mics and associated calibration file discs.

Attachments #1 & #2 are my old D2 ARC run. #3 & #4 are my new ARC run with the new mic.

There have been no changes to the room, speakers, speaker positions, amp or room treatments. I ran at the same 5 mic positions-- at least as close as is humanly possible. Everything was the same except the D2/D2v and the mics.

I ran ARC using all the suggested instructions. I have had ARC since it first came out and have gotten pretty good at it, and know what I'm doing. I'm no Bob, but I'm no slob.


With the new mic there is a 10+ db dip at 11khz.

With the old mic there is a much smaller dip at 12khz. This dip is acceptable to me due to the directionality of sound at that range, but I think the huge dip with the new mic may be due to a defective mic.


I know there have been others that had bad mics. Did your charts look similar to #1 & #2 ??

Did Anthem replace your mics ??


Tom 
arc.eq1.4movie1.JPG 173k .JPG file
arc.eq1.4movie2.JPG 90k .JPG file
newmic.1.JPG 171k .JPG file
newmic.2.JPG 172k .JPG file


----------



## Kris Deering

That is a pretty massive difference. It looks like your sub measurements are considerably different as well. I'd PM Nick and see what he thinks.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23602065
> 
> 
> That is a pretty massive difference. It looks like your sub measurements are considerably different as well. I'd PM Nick and see what he thinks.



Kris,

The difference in the sub response is most likely due to the fact that I was using the SVS AS-EQ1 prior to running ARC to correct my dual subs.

Since the sub is treated as one in ARC I don't think the AS-EQ1 would have any effect on that dip at 11khz.

But it does show what the Audyssey type of dual sub room correction can do. And, yes, I still think the next generation of Anthems should have multi-sub correction included in ARC.


I contacted Anthem tech with my charts and although they wouldn't admit that the mic was bad, they did admit that there had been problems with some mics and said I could order a new mic for $50.

Since I bought the D2v used, it wasn't covered under warrantee, even though the ARC unit was not used by the prior owner. Personally, I don't understand why someone would not use ARC, but it came unopened.

Unfortunately the $50 price was wrong. They cost $200. But $200 is a more realistic price. Just wish Anthem had replaced a mic that was obviously defective. But they didn't have to, and they didn't.

Just hope the new mic has been checked out properly and works correctly.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23602692
> 
> 
> Kris,
> 
> The difference in the sub response is most likely due to the fact that I was using the SVS AS-EQ1 prior to running ARC to correct my dual subs.
> 
> Since the sub is treated as one in ARC I don't think the AS-EQ1 would have any effect on that dip at 11khz.
> 
> But it does show what the Audyssey type of dual sub room correction can do. And, yes, I still think the next generation of Anthems should have multi-sub correction included in ARC.
> 
> 
> I contacted Anthem tech with my charts and although they wouldn't admit that the mic was bad, they did admit that there had been problems with some mics and said I could order a new mic for $50.
> 
> Since I bought the D2v used, it wasn't covered under warrantee, even though the ARC unit was not used by the prior owner. Personally, I don't understand why someone would not use ARC, but it came unopened.
> 
> Unfortunately the $50 price was wrong. They cost $200. But $200 is a more realistic price. Just wish Anthem had replaced a mic that was obviously defective. But they didn't have to, and they didn't.
> 
> Just hope the new mic has been checked out properly and works correctly.
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom


What do you have the HF cutoff in your targets set at ? 5 KHZ ?


I am curious to see what the new mic does to the HF response. Please post your new charts and let us know how it performs.


Stew


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23603835
> 
> 
> Tom
> 
> 
> What do you have the HF cutoff in your targets set at ? 5 KHZ ?
> 
> 
> I am curious to see what the new mic does to the HF response. Please post your new charts and let us know how it performs.
> 
> 
> Stew



Yes, I usually leave the max eq at 5khz, but sometimes like to tweak it up. But it was set at 5khz for these charts. The only setting I changed was to set the sub to 'flat'.


I'm also very curious to see what the new mic does.

I'll post charts when I do the new ARC run.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23604086
> 
> 
> Yes, I usually leave the max eq at 5khz, but sometimes like to tweak it up. But it was set at 5khz for these charts. The only setting I changed was to set the sub to 'flat'.
> 
> 
> I'm also very curious to see what the new mic does.
> 
> I'll post charts when I do the new ARC run.
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom

I just looked at my old ARC charts and I have a drop, not as steep, at about 12-15 KHZ.

Maybe this is ARC software related to the 5 KHZ cutoff ?


----------



## porschetech

I'm thinking about selling my D2 and moving up to a D2V. Would a 50v be on par or better than a D2 or should I save up my pennies for a D2V? An anthem dealer told me that the 50v would be a downgrade from a D2. Just wondering what you guys thought.


Also how much more superior is the D2v over a D2? The 8 hdmi's are attractive and so is the Dolby hd.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23607427
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about selling my D2 and moving up to a D2V. Would a 50v be on par or better than a D2 or should I save up my pennies for a D2V? An anthem dealer told me that the 50v would be a downgrade from a D2. Just wondering what you guys thought.
> 
> 
> Also how much more superior is the D2v over a D2? The 8 hdmi's are attractive and so is the Dolby hd.



There's been very little posted comparing the D2 vs. the AVM 50v, but those that have posted agree the D2 sounds better and the AVM 50v produces better video.


I switched from a D2 to a D2v (many Moons ago), expecting video improvements but NOT expecting audio improvements and was shocked at how easy it was for me to hear audio improvements. (Using ARC in both cases.)


The D2v also adds HDMI input up to 7.1 channels and up to 192KHz 24-bit. The D2 is limited to 5.1 and 96KHz for HDMI input.


I'm assuming you have ARC for your D2. If not, you are REALLY missing out.

--Bob


----------



## porschetech

Oh ok that's good news to hear, but hopefully prices will come down slightly as the D2V is still a lil bit out of my price range. Hopefully one day I'll be able to experience the enhancements that many have had going to a D2V.


You're gonna hate me for this. I have the arc kit.......brand new in box and I still haven't got round to setting it up. Blasphemy!!!!!!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23610701
> 
> 
> You're gonna hate me for this. I have the arc kit.......brand new in box and I still haven't got round to setting it up. Blasphemy!!!!!!


*If you USE ARC - you might experience a NEW D2*


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23610721
> 
> *If you USE ARC - you might experience a NEW D2*



I'll try it this weekend then. Any tips for setting up?


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi all. Ever since I sold my SVS Sub EQ unit and put 100% faith that ARC would perform the same result, I've been reading allot about the Anti-mode seen here:

http://www.deephzaudio.com/anti-mode%208033%20auto%20sub%20equalizer%20product%20page.html 


I'm currently running 2 Seaton Submersives with one in the front right of the room (not in the corner) and one in the back opposite corner of the room and in the corner which produced the best result for my room and I've tried many configurations. My question is would I benefit from using the Anti-Mode either the 8033S-11 or the new model which has XLR's called Anti-Mode 2.0 Duel Core and then running ARC (D2v). I need some advice before considering purchasing one. I would love to borrow one just to see if it makes any improvements in the LFE.


----------



## wingnut4772

I was wondering, my HT is in a pretty large space open to the rest of the house. Would bouncing up the room gain be any advantage for me as I don't really have a 'room' per se. 2 of my subs are located in the only corners of the space ( my avatar ). I was just curious how that worked. Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ ARC's starting point is to measure and preserve the inherent Room Gain in the room (within reason) which means that natural, lower frequency events occurring in the room, such as doors closing, sound the same as the same events recorded faithfully on a track.


However, larger rooms or rooms with extensive bass treatment will have low, or no Room Gain.


Movie mixers tend to assume listening rooms will be smaller and with a Room Gain in the 2-4dB range. So if your Measured Room Gain is less than 2dB, you might want to try raising it to 2dB in Targets (then re-Calculate and re-Upload).


There is no such consensus among folks who mix music, but one typical Rule of Thumb is to use a little less Room Gain for music.


Keep in mind that adjusting the Room Gain value in Targets changes what ARC is trying to achieve with the solution. So you should check the charts to make sure you haven't pushed ARC into a corner where it can no longer adequately correct the bass for speakers and sub. That will also depend on whether you've fiddled with ARC's choice of Cutoff/Crossover frequencies of course, or diverted correction resources higher up by raising Max EQ Frequency. The point is to play around a bit as a small change in Room Gain probably won't be something you hear, but it can make all the difference to whether ARC can adequately correct the bass.


For example if you have a dip near the Crossover frequencies, ARC has to apply boost to fill that dip. But to protect your speakers/amps ARC won't push more than 6dB of boost into that dip. Now if your raise Room Gain, one of the consequences is that you have just made that dip DEEPER (i.e. made the desired Target level higher), and that may put you beyond what ARC will push into that dip.


(The better solution of course is to reposition speakers or improve the bass response of your room with room treatments to minimize that dip and give ARC more room to maneuver.)


On the charts, you'll see Room Gain as the shallow hump in the Target curves at and below the Crossover region. The Room Gain value is nothing more complicated than the height of the peak of that hump (in dB) over the "basic volume level" of the solution -- which you'll spot in the flat part of the mid-range frequencies to the right of the Crossovers. Raising or lowering Room Gain has the exact audible effect that you would expect from the change in the shape of that shallow hump. As you'll see, changes of +/- 1dB are hard to see on the charts, and likely just as hard to hear.


In my case, I use the Music solution for stereo music listening, and the movie solution for everything else. As such, I play multi-channel music using the movie solution. I tweaked Room Gain in my movie solution as part of "improving" the Calculated curves -- a small change from what ARC itself chose. And then for music Room Gain, I subtracted 1dB from that. (3.5dB and 2.5dB respectively, as it turns out.) I'm not sure the change for music is actually making my stereo music sound better, but it made me feel good to do that, and that's all that really matters.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

^

Bob,

Like you I do separate movie and music runs in ARC since I use 5.1 for movies and 2.1 for music.


Arc has always set a lower room gain for music, usually about 1db, and I've wondered if that was because of the difference in the number of speakers, or if ARC sets music room gain lower automatically.

In other word, if I were to uncheck the 'same as movie' box (which I do), but still run a 5.1 speaker setup for music, would ARC still lower the room gain for music ??


I've always liked the lower room gain for music, so I've always left it there. Just wondering if ARC automatically chooses a lower room gain for music.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ My understanding is that ARC does NOTHING DIFFERENT in building the Music and Movie solutions, or in executing those results during listening, except for stuff that you, yourself have made different -- e.g., different number of speakers during Measurement. As I've said many times the Music and Movie names are simply names of convenience for two solutions which you can use any way you want. They might just as well have been named Fred and Ethel.


In your case I presume the difference in Measured Room Gain is due to the fewer number of speakers ARC recorded for the Music Measurement pass. I.e., less data pushing the answer one way or the other. (Not including Center being probably the biggest change in what ARC hears for this.)


By the way, although I have run separate passes for Movie and Music in the past, I don't do that any more. I run the Movie pass only, then uncheck Same As in Music and disable the Center speaker AFTER Measurement. (Put "N" in the Center Cutoff value --- for No Speaker.) I build the Music solution as 4.1 (no Center). Then for listening, I have my default audio mode for stereo music content set to Stereo -- i.e., output on LF/RF/Sub only.


But if I want to light up the Surrounds, I can change that on the fly to, say, PLIIx, because the data for the Surrounds is built into the solution. In either case Center is silent because I excluded it from the solution for better front stage separation.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23611329
> 
> 
> Hi all. Ever since I sold my SVS Sub EQ unit and put 100% faith that ARC would perform the same result, I've been reading allot about the Anti-mode seen here:
> 
> http://www.deephzaudio.com/anti-mode%208033%20auto%20sub%20equalizer%20product%20page.html
> 
> 
> I'm currently running 2 Seaton Submersives with one in the front right of the room (not in the corner) and one in the back opposite corner of the room and in the corner which produced the best result for my room and I've tried many configurations. My question is would I benefit from using the Anti-Mode either the 8033S-11 or the new model which has XLR's called Anti-Mode 2.0 Duel Core and then running ARC (D2v). I need some advice before considering purchasing one. I would love to borrow one just to see if it makes any improvements in the LFE.


I believe you made a big mistake selling your AS-EQ1 unit. The Anti-mode, as its name implies only deals with predominant room modes(peaks and valleys). The EQ1 does much more, including time/phase alignment of multiple subs. I believe its the only product on the market that does that function so far.

 

- David

 

PS

Nice subs though!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23613586
> 
> 
> ^ My understanding is that ARC does NOTHING DIFFERENT in building the Music and Movie solutions, or in executing those results during listening, except for stuff that you, yourself have made different -- e.g., different number of speakers during Measurement. As I've said many times the Music and Movie names are simply names of convenience for two solutions which you can use any way you want. They might just as well have been named Fred and Ethel.
> 
> 
> In your case I presume the difference in Measured Room Gain is due to the fewer number of speakers ARC recorded for the Music Measurement pass. I.e., less data pushing the answer one way or the other. (Not including Center being probably the biggest change in what ARC hears for this.)
> 
> 
> By the way, although I have run separate passes for Movie and Music in the past, I don't do that any more. I run the Movie pass only, then uncheck Same As in Music and disable the Center speaker AFTER Measurement. (Put "N" in the Center Cutoff value --- for No Speaker.) I build the Music solution as 4.1 (no Center). Then for listening, I have my default audio mode for stereo music content set to Stereo -- i.e., output on LF/RF/Sub only.
> 
> 
> But if I want to light up the Surrounds, I can change that on the fly to, say, PLIIx, because the data for the Surrounds is built into the solution. In either case Center is silent because I excluded it from the solution for better front stage separation.
> 
> --Bob


 

Bob:

 

Since you cutout the center in your configurations, then what happens to all that center channel info? What happens to the bass since that channel is often loaded with bass as well?

 

 

- David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I only use that Music ARC solution when listening to 2.0 music content, so there is no Center content to worry about.


However, if I played multi-channel content in that configuration, any Center content would go equally to LF/RF. There is no separate Crossover for Center since there is no Center. Instead the Crossover for LF/RF kicks in and steers bass appropriately to my Subwoofer, just as it does for any normal LF/RF content.

--Bob


----------



## chileboy

^ Bob, as always your explanations are quite illuminating. And timely too, as it turns out - I just today re-ran ARC, with separate runs for Movie and Music (for which I use 2.1) , and as I was doing so, I was wondering if that were really necessary. And now I know it is not and, in fact, it _would_ make it easy to change (for instance) to 4.1 as you have done and re-upload.


But I did discover after reading your posts, it seems I have to run ARC first with Music set to "Same as Movie" - i.e., I can't go back and check "Same as Movie" and get those surround values over into the Music setting, and then uncheck it and have it retain those values for the surrounds - they just go back to "No speaker".


Hopefully what I'm saying makes sense - am I missing something?


- Mark


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23613825
> 
> 
> I believe you made a big mistake selling your AS-EQ1 unit. The Anti-mode, as its name implies only deals with predominant room modes(peaks and valleys). The EQ1 does much more, including time/phase alignment of multiple subs. I believe its the only product on the market that does that function so far.
> 
> 
> - David
> 
> 
> PS
> 
> Nice subs though!



Read this mate:

http://www.stereophile.com/content/music-round-57-page-2 


He makes mention in comparing the AS-EQ1 to the Antimode and says Quote:

*"As a subwoofer room equalizer, the Anti-Mode 2.0 is as potent as the SVSound AS-EQ1 ($799, now discontinued; see my September 2009 column, or its sister under the skin, Audyssey's Sub Equalizer ($799; see my January 2010 column), but provides infinitely more tweakability. The DSPeaker Anti-Mode 2.0 may be a small and unprepossessing black box, but for $1099, its performance and power are huge"*


----------



## SimonNo10

A contact of mine allowed me to borrow the Antimode 2.0 dual core to test in my system. This thing can either be as simple as you like or it can be complicated as it all comes down to knowledge. As I'm just past being a novice I decided to run the Typical calibration selecting Stereo dual Subs as my setup (I was unsure what to pick here) as mono dual subs was also an option and I don't know what the Submersives are in relation to the 2 options. Anyway once this is selected the frequency sweeps begin and they are potent as the whole house just shook with the first wave and it goes through the frequencies and then displays the measured room response red curve. After this the sweeps are repeated until a black curve appears took 6 goes before it completed it's calibration. Once complete it saves the calibration and then you proceed to run ARC. Please refer to the 2 graphs using Quick Measure with Antimode on and off. The unit has a bypass button so you can disable it during the Quick Measure.

WithAntimode.JPG 71k .JPG file

WithoutAntimode.JPG 71k .JPG file


Ok after running ARC I tested using Batman-Dark Knight Rises and the difference was very noticable with the bass hitting harder and the system sounding clearer.


Here are my graphs with one being my ARC result that I performed in July 2013 and ARC that I ran tonight with the Antimode installed.

July2013Calibration.jpg 615k .jpg file

ARCwithAntimode.jpg 615k .jpg file


One thing I heard during my testing was clipping from one of my subs. It was the scene where the batwing makes it's appearance and flys over and normally I listen to this movie at -18 on the D2v and decided to put it up to -17 and this is when the clipping occured and I actually heard the driver hit metal and I saw the amber clip light appear on the back of the sub which indicates that I'm getting close to maxing out the amp. It flashes red when it's just on max output. Suffice to say the Antimode requires someone with indepth knowledge of sub freq and low/high pass filters and parametric Eq to fully appreciate and get the most from this device. There is an advanced calibration which allows more control but I haven't tried that yet. But it's an impressive device from my first impressions.


----------



## xMEATx

Which amps do you have in your Submersives, the 1k or the 2.4k?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23614846
> 
> 
> Which amps do you have in your Submersives, the 1k or the 2.4k?


I'm in Australia so I only have the 1K 240v version for both subs. We're still waiting for the 240v HP amp.


----------



## xMEATx

Ok, I have never seen the amber clip indicator light on my 2.4k. I have wondered about the dual core and how it works.... I appreciate you sharing your experience with it.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23614740
> 
> 
> One thing I heard during my testing was clipping from one of my subs. It was the scene where the batwing makes it's appearance and flys over and normally I listen to this movie at -18 on the D2v and decided to put it up to -17 and this is when the clipping occured and *I actually heard the driver hit metal* and I saw the amber clip light appear on the back of the sub which indicates that I'm getting close to maxing out the amp. It flashes red when it's just on max output. Suffice to say the Antimode requires someone with indepth knowledge of sub freq and low/high pass filters and parametric Eq to fully appreciate and get the most from this device. There is an advanced calibration which allows more control but I haven't tried that yet. But it's an impressive device from my first impressions.



That is more than clipping. You take the outright chance of permanently damaging your sub driver allowing that to happen.


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23568423
> 
> 
> You were supposed to set the sub level at 75db. Not where the sub manfacturer has made volume marks




So I tried using an spl meter to set my sub volume to 75db, and I started out with sub volume set at 12 o`clock and spl read around 65db, using the white noise Anthem provides in manual test mode, this is at same volume level on sub I used to get a -9.5 sub level setting using ARC. Now if I were to turn sub volume up to get 75db almost certainly ARC would set level even lower. This doesn`t sound like a good solution to me.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23615344
> 
> 
> So I tried using an spl meter to set my sub volume to 75db, and I started out with sub volume set at 12 o`clock and spl read around 65db, using the white noise Anthem provides in manual test mode, this is at same volume level on sub I used to get a -9.5 sub level setting using ARC. Now if I were to turn sub volume up to get 75db almost certainly ARC would set level even lower. This doesn`t sound like a good solution to me.



Check these items


That you Did Not set your sub as Super


That you Did Not set your other speakers to Large as this adds low frequency sound from other channels to the sub


That you Did Not select 2 subs in your setup


That you are using C weighted and slow response in your SPL meter


That you Did zero the SPL before starting



Then you need to exactly perform these steps, without skipping any, these guidelines, that I changed a little for clarity and updating,that were written originally by Bob P


Prior to running the ARC measurements, there is another step to do to get the test tone volumes correct:


Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration.

*Set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB.*


Then set Noise sequence to Manual in the first line and scroll down to the TEST LEVEL line.

Adjust the Test level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up).

*Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, only adjust the Test Level line.*


ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by theTest Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line.

So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Test Level line.]


Now scroll to the Subwoofer line.

*Leave that line at 0dB*


Adjust the volume knob on your subwoofer until it measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position.

There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.


ARC will use the Test Level settings you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones.

The adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, will be level adjusted properly to match.


If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.


Back out of the Setup menu. Run the ARC application."


Let us know how it works out after you do this Test Level setup for ARC


Stew


----------



## turk 182

Cool I will try this. Thanks Stew!


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23613586
> 
> 
> ^ My understanding is that ARC does NOTHING DIFFERENT in building the Music and Movie solutions, or in executing those results during listening, except for stuff that you, yourself have made different -- e.g., different number of speakers during Measurement. As I've said many times the Music and Movie names are simply names of convenience for two solutions which you can use any way you want. They might just as well have been named Fred and Ethel.
> 
> 
> In your case I presume the difference in Measured Room Gain is due to the fewer number of speakers ARC recorded for the Music Measurement pass. I.e., less data pushing the answer one way or the other. (Not including Center being probably the biggest change in what ARC hears for this.)
> 
> 
> By the way, although I have run separate passes for Movie and Music in the past, I don't do that any more. I run the Movie pass only, then uncheck Same As in Music and disable the Center speaker AFTER Measurement. (Put "N" in the Center Cutoff value --- for No Speaker.) I build the Music solution as 4.1 (no Center). Then for listening, I have my default audio mode for stereo music content set to Stereo -- i.e., output on LF/RF/Sub only.
> 
> 
> But if I want to light up the Surrounds, I can change that on the fly to, say, PLIIx, because the data for the Surrounds is built into the solution. In either case Center is silent because I excluded it from the solution for better front stage separation.
> 
> --Bob



I believe you, but besides setting a different room gain for movie/music configurations ARC also uploads different movie and music subwoofer speaker levels to the D2v. It consistantly sets the music subwoofer level about 1db lower than movie subwoofer level-- movie sub -1.5db / music sub -2.5db.

It would seem to me that without what little low freq that might be coming from my center (which goes down to 35hz) that ARC would need to boost the music sub to make up for missing low freq.

Also it seems by lowering the music room gain _and_ lowering the music sub speaker level that ARC is doubling down on reducing the music sub level, as if the algorithms were designed different for movie and music.

What am I missing??


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23615325
> 
> 
> That is more than clipping. You take the outright chance of permanently damaging your sub driver allowing that to happen.



It wasn't something I was attempting to do and came as a surprise as I've had the volume beyond and the same with zero problems and no clipping from either sub without the Antimode with that movie. I read the Antimode manual which mentions clipping and it says to change the input setting from High to Low but I did that and the bass was reduced at the same volume that clipped the sub. I'm not running my system anywhere near reference like some on this forum as I simply couldn't handle it personally. The only thing I changed after running ARC was changing the sub to Flat and adding 2.0 room gain as I don't get any due to room treatments. I wanted to replicate the same settings as my previous calibration in July.


As mentioned there's so much more to configure and test with the Antimode such as the Advanced Calibration which goes into Time Delay which you can set to Auto/Manual and proceed with the calibration. Not sure if setting the unit to Stereo Subs rather than Mono Dual Subs had something to do with it and setting the subs to Flat in ARC which possibly turns off the clipping warning on the Antimode which is a feature if it detects clipping and displays it on the screen on the unit. I'm very new to using this device so I might ask a friend on another forum (Australian) yes Macca you







to come over and tweak this thing and have a play. Can't do it today as I'm working from today through to next Weds then free for a week.


There will be a delay in my responses due to work but will chime in when I can. Also if anyone feels I should take this to the Antimode thread that's ok as I don't wish to derail this thread.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23615746
> 
> 
> I believe you, but besides setting a different room gain for movie/music configurations ARC also uploads different movie and music subwoofer speaker levels to the D2v. It consistantly sets the music subwoofer level about 1db lower than movie subwoofer level-- movie sub -1.5db / music sub -2.5db.
> 
> It would seem to me that without what little low freq that might be coming from my center (which goes down to 35hz) that ARC would need to boost the music sub to make up for missing low freq.
> 
> Also it seems by lowering the music room gain _and_ lowering the music sub speaker level that ARC is doubling down on reducing the music sub level, as if the algorithms were designed different for movie and music.
> 
> What am I missing??



What we are missing is Anthem not giving us all the information.


Maybe someone can clear this up for all of us.

What would be the use for a Music sub if there is little or no LFE on any music being played.

If you set the Front speakers in ARC to Large, Anthem says adds to the low freq being sent to the sub. .


BOB P


Note that Anthem says it is not necessary to remove the center speaker when playing stereo in Music.


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23615541
> 
> 
> Check these items
> 
> 
> That you Did Not set your sub as Super
> 
> 
> That you Did Not set your other speakers to Large as this adds low frequency sound from other channels to the sub
> 
> 
> That you Did Not select 2 subs in your setup
> 
> 
> That you are using C weighted and slow response in your SPL meter
> 
> 
> That you Did zero the SPL before starting
> 
> 
> 
> Then you need to exactly perform these steps, without skipping any, these guidelines, that I changed a little for clarity and updating,that were written originally by Bob P
> 
> 
> Prior to running the ARC measurements, there is another step to do to get the test tone volumes correct:
> 
> 
> Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration.
> 
> *Set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB.*
> 
> 
> Then set Noise sequence to Manual in the first line and scroll down to the TEST LEVEL line.
> 
> Adjust the Test level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up).
> 
> *Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, only adjust the Test Level line.*
> 
> 
> ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by theTest Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line.
> 
> So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Test Level line.]
> 
> 
> Now scroll to the Subwoofer line.
> 
> *Leave that line at 0dB*
> 
> 
> Adjust the volume knob on your subwoofer until it measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position.
> 
> There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.
> 
> 
> ARC will use the Test Level settings you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones.
> 
> The adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, will be level adjusted properly to match.
> 
> 
> If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.
> 
> 
> Back out of the Setup menu. Run the ARC application."
> 
> 
> Let us know how it works out after you do this Test Level setup for ARC
> 
> 
> Stew



Even though I can`t ARC this weekend I did adjust the test level and had to bump it up to +2 and i had turn down sub volume a quarter turn to about 9 or 10 o`clock. I`m expecting very different ARC results. Hopefully this will get my system dialed into my liking. I`ll report back next weekend. Thanks thestewman


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23616044
> 
> 
> It wasn't something I was attempting to do and came as a surprise as I've had the volume beyond and the same with zero problems and no clipping from either sub without the Antimode with that movie. I read the Antimode manual which mentions clipping and it says to change the input setting from High to Low but I did that and the bass was reduced at the same volume that clipped the sub. I'm not running my system anywhere near reference like some on this forum as I simply couldn't handle it personally. The only thing I changed after running ARC was changing the sub to Flat and adding 2.0 room gain as I don't get any due to room treatments. I wanted to replicate the same settings as my previous calibration in July.
> 
> 
> As mentioned there's so much more to configure and test with the Antimode such as the Advanced Calibration which goes into Time Delay which you can set to Auto/Manual and proceed with the calibration. Not sure if setting the unit to Stereo Subs rather than Mono Dual Subs had something to do with it and setting the subs to Flat in ARC which possibly turns off the clipping warning on the Antimode which is a feature if it detects clipping and displays it on the screen on the unit. I'm very new to using this device so I might ask a friend on another forum (Australian) yes Macca you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to come over and tweak this thing and have a play. Can't do it today as I'm working from today through to next Weds then free for a week.
> 
> 
> There will be a delay in my responses due to work but will chime in when I can. Also if anyone feels I should take this to the Antimode thread that's ok as I don't wish to derail this thread.



I wasn't being critical,. Just thought a warning was advised before you damaged the driver.


Something I don't understand is where users thing there is some magical reference level. Zero on the Anthem volume control is 0 not a magical setting.

Anthem does not use a digital volume control so trying to set it to zero because of losing some bits is not necessary.

Personally I listen at about 15 to 20 on the volume control so Ii don't ruin my hearing. My wife likes it at higher that 30.

And my speakers and amps can handle it just too loud to enjoy and not realistic to be louder than live.

Sounds like either the Antimode was over driving the system or setting ARC to flat was the cause of the driver bottoming out


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turk 182*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23616187
> 
> 
> Even though I can`t ARC this weekend I did adjust the test level and had to bump it up to +2 and i had turn down sub volume a quarter turn to about 9 or 10 o`clock. I`m expecting very different ARC results. Hopefully this will get my system dialed into my liking. I`ll report back next weekend. Thanks thestewman



Those kind of adjustments sounds like your getting it right


Stew


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23616168
> 
> 
> What we are missing is Anthem not giving us all the information.
> 
> 
> Maybe someone can clear this up for all of us.
> 
> What would be the use for a Music sub if there is little or no LFE on any music being played.
> 
> If you set the Front speakers in ARC to Large, Anthem says adds to the low freq being sent to the sub. .
> 
> 
> BOB P
> 
> 
> Note that Anthem says it is not necessary to remove the center speaker when playing stereo in Music.



It would be nice to know if it's Movie/Music or Fred/Ethel.

Inquiring minds want to know!!










I also should say that both movies and music sound spectacular with ARC thru my D2v.



Tom


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23616199
> 
> 
> I wasn't being critical,. Just thought a warning was advised before you damaged the driver.
> 
> 
> Something I don't understand is where users thing there is some magical reference level. Zero on the Anthem volume control is 0 not a magical setting.
> 
> Anthem does not use a digital volume control so trying to set it to zero because of losing some bits is not necessary.
> 
> Personally I listen at about 15 to 20 on the volume control so Ii don't ruin my hearing. My wife likes it at higher that 30.
> 
> And my speakers and amps can handle it just too loud to enjoy and not realistic to be louder than live.
> 
> Sounds like either the Antimode was over driving the system or setting ARC to flat was the cause of the driver bottoming out


Sorry if I came across in a negative way and I appreciate your warning but I'm always careful with equipment settings and I'm not one of those 0 reference users I just turn the volume to the point where I enjoy the movie. This proves difficult when some discs are mastered louder than others or they bump up the LFE.


When I get time I will redo the calibration using the advanced settings and not select Flat in ARC. Thanks for you comments they are appreciated.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23614411
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23613825
> 
> 
> I believe you made a big mistake selling your AS-EQ1 unit. The Anti-mode, as its name implies only deals with predominant room modes(peaks and valleys). The EQ1 does much more, including time/phase alignment of multiple subs. I believe its the only product on the market that does that function so far.
> 
> 
> - David
> 
> 
> PS
> 
> Nice subs though!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Read this mate:
> 
> http://www.stereophile.com/content/music-round-57-page-2
> 
> 
> He makes mention in comparing the AS-EQ1 to the Antimode and says Quote:
> 
> *"As a subwoofer room equalizer, the Anti-Mode 2.0 is as potent as the SVSound AS-EQ1 ($799, now discontinued; see my September 2009 column, or its sister under the skin, Audyssey's Sub Equalizer ($799; see my January 2010 column), but provides infinitely more tweakability. The DSPeaker Anti-Mode 2.0 may be a small and unprepossessing black box, but for $1099, its performance and power are huge"*
Click to expand...

 

Color me impressed Simon







... obviously I was wrong in my knowledge of the Anti-Mode.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23617275
> 
> 
> Color me impressed Simon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... obviously I was wrong in my knowledge of the Anti-Mode.



All good mate. It's fairly new so you may have been thinking about the 8033 version. I wont get the opportunity to play more with this until next Thursday.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23557618
> 
> 
> ^ I've got no inside track to their internal testing. But the impression I got from Nick way back when this first came up was that they HAVE tested Windows 8 and are not seeing the problem.
> 
> 
> If that's correct then what's needed is to isolate what's different between your Windows 8 setup and theirs.
> 
> 
> Whatever's really going on internally, I suggest you just try again with them. I.E., just assume it dropped through a crack and raise it again. Nothing gained by getting frustrated. Just squeak the wheel again.
> 
> 
> Try phoning.
> 
> 
> I have separately alerted Nick that there's more than one person here suffering with this.
> 
> --Bob



We can assume you do not have the inside track and until you yourself have tried it on windows 8 you really can not help with my problem. My windows 8 setup? And why would I need isolate anything? Would that be me providing good technical support?


Tried tech support, tried here, tried my rep and finally got acknowledged at tech support, now my emails direct to one at tech support are not answered. Hmm, try here again?

 


So now it is my two setups, will need to isolate that.










Regards


----------



## CharlieU

^^^^^


I get the same thing with my Microsoft Surface Pro and Win 8. Are you using a USB 2.0 or 3.0 port? My Surface only has a 3.0 port. Might be something to investigate.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23617728
> 
> 
> ^^^^^
> 
> 
> I get the same thing with my Microsoft Surface Pro and Win 8. Are you using a USB 2.0 or 3.0 port? My Surface only has a 3.0 port. Might be something to investigate.



Have tried 2 and 3 same result. Appears their are more incompatibles with both com and mic on usb 3. Too noisy when you live in the middle of nowhere, sub-sound not pushed out etc. It does run through on usb3 however.


Regards


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shayne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23617633
> 
> 
> Tried tech support, tried here, tried my rep and finally got acknowledged at tech support, now my emails direct to one at tech support are not answered



They are just too polite to tell you, use the computer that works (for now). If that's not acceptable to you and you've reached a stalemate with e-mail you really need to call and speak to a human.


It could be something like a different version of video card driver causing the graph to appear shifted but otherwise valid. Personally I would just stick with the older computer. You don't need a fancy new computer to run ARC.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41280#post_23607427
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about selling my D2 and moving up to a D2V. Would a 50v be on par or better than a D2 or should I save up my pennies for a D2V? An anthem dealer told me that the 50v would be a downgrade from a D2. Just wondering what you guys thought.
> 
> 
> Also how much more superior is the D2v over a D2? The 8 hdmi's are attractive and so is the Dolby hd.



I've heard dealers say that before, but they were basing that on past experience with the D2 and 50 when the differences were major. Once I showed them Anthem's comparison chart of the D2/50v/D2v (posted here before, google it) they changed their tune.


The 50v got the processing power of the D2 and all the "v" improvements the D2v got, but continues to lack the upsampling DACS and some premium matched parts.


If you are running a 7.1 speaker setup the "v" upgrade in either case is more worth it for the native 7.1 support. There are also the video bypass option in models with the "3D" upgrade and updated firmware.


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23619854
> 
> 
> They are just too polite to tell you, use the computer that works (for now). If that's not acceptable to you and you've reached a stalemate with e-mail you really need to call and speak to a human.
> 
> 
> It could be something like a different version of video card driver causing the graph to appear shifted but otherwise valid. Personally I would just stick with the older computer. You don't need a fancy new computer to run ARC.



Talked to my rep (human), have been placed in touch with one tech, and it has gone to engineering. Can't do anything for me till it is fixed, but no one is stepping up to let me know it is reproducible or if they are working on it. Not like we have a lot to say about this box, it is simply, it works and sounds good. Would not even be posting here if I got a couple of simple answers.


Too polite to let people know if it is reproducible and if we can expect a fix? I would not use that word, but so be it. You would think they would let people know so they can dust off their old computer when they need to run ARC. Some of us own this box and stream media from a fancy computer. There is more wiring to it then any other component and now with my new asus muse i am running xlr. It is not all about plugging in a computer and running one app for some. Some game, foobar, MPC-HC etc.


Graphic card drivers are not causing a usb problem when you boot into one os and use the same version of drivers. We would say it is the OS. I have ran both NVidia and ati with similar results. May be M$ changed something with the usb interface and a small program to recalibrate our cal files may be the answer? Download it, run, select your file and let it transform/mod it. I believe there is a difference in sound right now and it is not a visual thing.


You are right and I should keep hammering anthem. That is why we post here.


Regards


----------



## AVfile

It bothers me too, but when I've been through similar situations and told them "it works one way but not the other" in my mind it is just a *workaround* but to an employee in Tech Support it is a *solution*. I don't agree with that but their job is to get you up and running, by hook or by crook, and relay any remaining issues to engineering. Unfortunately the buck usually stops there, especially this time of year. We all take vacations and have more time to play with our gear and post here but Anthem has vacations too (at least that is the excuse I'm sure you will hear).


----------



## Shayne2

It has been into engineer since March of this year. Must have chosen the wrong engineering profession for sure







. This, for me, is the most important future proofing requirement for this box, including all the rest mentioned here, since ARC is a computer software solution requiring a windows operating system. There is no workaround at this stage that I am aware of other than a dual boot operating system with the second boot to run just one application. Bit excessive and time consuming to say the least, that is if you have the system and knowledge to do this, and know that a problem may exist. I am up and running, all I am looking for is if they have reproduced it and if so are they working on it. 3D direct pass through is not as important as ARC on future OS's to me.


Regards


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23619892
> 
> 
> I've heard dealers say that before, but they were basing that on past experience with the D2 and 50 when the differences were major. Once I showed them Anthem's comparison chart of the D2/50v/D2v (posted here before, google it) they changed their tune.
> 
> 
> The 50v got the processing power of the D2 and all the "v" improvements the D2v got, but continues to lack the upsampling DACS and some premium matched parts.
> 
> 
> If you are running a 7.1 speaker setup the "v" upgrade in either case is more worth it for the native 7.1 support. There are also the video bypass option in models with the "3D" upgrade and updated firmware.



Thanks for the extra info. Kinda kicking myself now. Saw a 50v on eBay last week for $1200. I was going back and forth about it. I decided to pull the trigger.....too late. It sold very quickly!!!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23623212
> 
> 
> Thanks for the extra info. Kinda kicking myself now. Saw a 50v on eBay last week for $1200. I was going back and forth about it. I decided to pull the trigger.....too late. It sold very quickly!!!



For $1200 - the 50v must have been for parts


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23624004
> 
> 
> For $1200 - the 50 must have been for parts



hahahaha.......thats what scaredme off, but it sure went quick 1-2 hrs max!


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23624636
> 
> 
> hahahaha.......thats what scaredme off, but it sure went quick 1-2 hrs max!



Feel sorry for the Buyer - he might have got scamed


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23625849
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> I have this weird problem where my 50v loses the blue on-screen menu on the TV (It's still visible on the LCD display of the 50v) after the unit has been on for half an hour or more. All I see on the TV is a black screen when the menu is active. Video configuration overlay window (7) works fine. Anybody else ever seen this? Could there be a loose/intermittent cable that when it heats up, becomes disconnected? A bad solder joint? A bad capacitor? A board/connector misalignment? Could something on a board like a chip be overheating? This happens regardless of the input being used. Also, HDMI 2 output from the main board is solarized, regardless of HDMI cable being used. HDMI 1 from the daughter board is fine. Sound works fine. All this occurs regardless of firmware version. Resetting to factory load-outs changes nothing. Current version is 3.09h I think. I had to roll it back from 3.09J. Unit is 3 1/2 yrs old, no longer under warranty. I imagine a new video board must be pretty expensive. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Call Anthem tech support. I think you came up with the correct diagnosis already.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23625849
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> I have this weird problem where my 50v loses the blue on-screen menu on the TV (It's still visible on the LCD display of the 50v) after the unit has been on for half an hour or more. All I see on the TV is a black screen when the menu is active. Video configuration overlay window (7) works fine. Anybody else ever seen this? Could there be a loose/intermittent cable that when it heats up, becomes disconnected? A bad solder joint? A bad capacitor? A board/connector misalignment? Could something on a board like a chip be overheating? This happens regardless of the input being used. Also, HDMI 2 output from the main board is solarized, regardless of HDMI cable being used. HDMI 1 from the daughter board is fine. Sound works fine. All this occurs regardless of firmware version. Resetting to factory load-outs changes nothing. Current version is 3.09h I think. I had to roll it back from 3.09J. Unit is 3 1/2 yrs old, no longer under warranty. I imagine a new video board must be pretty expensive. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yeah, replacing a video board is no fun. You could try doing a Flash Erase and a firmware re-install, which I believe will force the reinstallation of the video board firmware. You could also try disconnecting everything except power and HDMI out to rule out the possibility that some unusual voltages are present on some other cable, screwing up the power in the 50v.


But really, it sounds like either a video board or power supply problem -- and more likely the video board.


I'd talk it through with Anthem tech support and see if they believe steps like that are worth trying before you ship the unit in for service.

--Bob


----------



## gerard1meehan

Certz,


I have run into the same issue with my D2v (also (3 1/2 years old). I would be very interested in your solution. It does not happen all of the time with extended use but it has happen as you have described.


----------



## AVfile

So the Setup menu stops working after being displayed for 30 minutes or after the unit is powered on for 30 minutes? Does a warm or cold restart restore it?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41220#post_23575994
> 
> 
> The disk was Doctor Who season. 5. It seems it is disk specific as other blu rays come up correctly
> 
> 
> Audio on the box says DTS HD 5.1
> 
> 
> Interesting



Just tried it on both my systems.

All BD players report it as DTS HD-HR (High Resolution)

Yamaha sound bar reports it as same.

Only Anthem reports it as DTS-LBR (Low Bit Rate).


Also tried another BBC series "Life" on Blu-ray with the same result. I'm sure this used to get displayed properly by the Anthem but I sold all my old Lionsgate releases with DTS HD-HR so I'm not sure if it's just a BBC thing.


----------



## gerard1meehan

Thanks for looking into it.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23629227
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> I may just do that after I rule out a few other things.



Have you tried connecting the PVR via the component YBR cables to the 50v and then to your plasma ?



Also I believe the setup menu is a S-video signal and you might try connecting it via that signal source to your plasma if your plasma has S-video.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23629166
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a known fault at the HDMI implementation level of the Scientific Atlanta (Cisco) PVRs. I've had two of them (models are years apart with two different HDMI specs) and they both do the same thing regardless of being connected to the 50v or directly to a TV via HDMI, so I have no choice but to use component cables and avoid connecting the PVR to the 50v.



This is a hard one to digest.

For a long time Anthem has been saying it is Scientific Atlanta's bad HDMI that causes problems with their PVR.

Why do we not see owners of other AVR's and Pre pros in other forums complaining en mass ?

Unless Anthem can justify their units not working I think it might be a cop out.


----------



## AVfile

I use a Rogers SA PVR (nowhere near 8 hrs at a time) without hang-ups but firmware varies depending on cable provider.


Certz,

This is a very strange problem, which does sound like a bad circuit somewhere on the video board heating up and preventing successful source switching. What video output config are you running? Perhaps there is an alternative config (i.e. lower bandwidth) that will minimize the problem, assuming you are not willing to shell out for the "3D" upgrade.


I'm willing to bet if you tried flipping through other analog input sources, beyond the PVR and Setup menu (internal S-video) you will encounter the black screen when switching to them too. It may be helpful to confirm that the problem is limited to analog sources.


The part that scares me more is your HDMI2 output appearing "solarized". Is that all the time or just when the problem on HDMI1 is happening? Perhaps the port is physically damaged or slightly worn.


----------



## benleeys




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23627719
> 
> 
> Certz,
> 
> 
> I have run into the same issue with my D2v (also (3 1/2 years old). I would be very interested in your solution. It does not happen all of the time with extended use but it has happen as you have described.



I've had this issue with my D2v as well during the last 3 years. It's an intermittent problem, like yours. I've approached Tech Support, but after a lengthy exchange of emails, they still couldn't offer a definite solution, so I just gave up.

-Ben


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *benleeys*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23631023
> 
> 
> I've had this issue with my D2v as well during the last 3 years. It's an intermittent problem, like yours. I've approached Tech Support, but after a lengthy exchange of emails, they still couldn't offer a definite solution, so I just gave up.
> 
> -Ben



And I find that is the problem.

So many Anthem owners voice complaints about a complicated audio video device and Anthem stonewalls most of them.

I have experienced several audio problems and some other defects and Anthem has never handled the tech service in a positive way.

Why are we as owners allowing this to occur ? If there was enough negative comments on this forum and on Facebook maybe Anthem would take a different stance.

The Anthem units are excellent complicated devices with some inherent defects that Anthem refuses or does does not want to address and when they take that stance we let them.

The normal Anthem response if you persist on addressing an issue that is not affecting a large number of users. Anthem will refuse to respond.


I encourage anyone with a defect to keep pressing them.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Setup menu is an internally generated S-Video source. Typically problems that show up displaying the Setup menu will also show up if you try some external S-video source.


I suspect the video digitizer is not happy with the Analog S-video signal it is seeing. If so, the S-video should still be visible on the passthrough S-video output of the Anthem since that path does not get digitized.


If other S-video sources still work, then the problem would seem to be in the Analog signal generation path for Setup (i.e., that character generator). If other S-video sources also fail (the usual case in my experience) then the problem is in the Analog to Digital conversion for S-video after the unit heats up.


In the past, video defects like posterization of the upper (Main HDMI 1) output could often be easily fixed by just reseating the daughter board that contains that output into the main video board. But I don't recall anyone reporting a problem here on the lower (HDMI 2) output while the upper output was working correctly. Nevertheless. reseating that daughter board would certainly be worth a try before sending the unit back for a main video board replacement.

--Bob


----------



## Picasso Moon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Certz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23629166
> 
> 
> Hi AVfIle,
> 
> 
> Thanks for inquiring further. Below is a more detailed description of my 50v's operational quirks.
> 
> The setup menu is no longer visible on the TV if I call it up after 30 minutes of video processing by the 50v have elapsed. I do not know if the setup menu disappears after being continuously displayed for 30 minutes as that is something I have never tried and with good reason: I would be concerned for burn-in on my plasma TV. Yes, a cold restart does restore the setup menu's availability until another 30 minutes of video processing passes once more, after which it goes again into hiding. If I am watching a PVR TV show, however, I can view the setup menu even after 30 minutes have passed because my PVR is connected directly to the TV via YBR component cables and is not processing video at that time. The extended processing of video within the 50v seems to be the cause of the setup menu + video blackout. As an aside, this PVR connection setup is necessary because of another issue: If I watch a bluray movie via HDMI and at the end of it, I switch over to the PVR if/when the PVR is connected to the 50v via component cables, I get sound but no picture; just a black screen. I have to restart the 50v to get the PVR picture back. Connecting the PVR directly to the TV avoids this issue. Also, connecting the PVR via HDMI to 50v is a no-go because the PVR hangs at the boot screen after about 8 hours. This is a known fault at the HDMI implementation level of the Scientific Atlanta (Cisco) PVRs. I've had two of them (models are years apart with two different HDMI specs) and they both do the same thing regardless of being connected to the 50v or directly to a TV via HDMI, so I have no choice but to use component cables and avoid connecting the PVR to the 50v.



These are almost the identical problems I had with my D2v. The setup menu would almost always work after the unit it started up but after using the unit a while the menu will no longer display and the only way you could get it back was to restart. Also, after viewing my Roku 3 for a period of time when switching to my Tivo DVR hooked up via component there was no video display but the audio was fine. This would happen 100% of the time after viewing a 45 minute program on the Roku. Again, the only way I could ever get the video back for the Tivo was the restart the D2v.


So at least take a little comfort in knowing you aren't the only one who's had these issues.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23632168
> 
> 
> And I find that is the problem.
> 
> So many Anthem owners voice complaints about a complicated audio video device and Anthem stonewalls most of them.
> 
> I have experienced several audio problems and some other defects and Anthem has never handled the tech service in a positive way.
> 
> Why are we as owners allowing this to occur ? If there was enough negative comments on this forum and on Facebook maybe Anthem would take a different stance.
> 
> The Anthem units are excellent complicated devices with some inherent defects that Anthem refuses or does does not want to address and when they take that stance we let them.
> 
> The normal Anthem response if you persist on addressing an issue that is not affecting a large number of users. Anthem will refuse to respond.
> 
> 
> I encourage anyone with a defect to keep pressing them.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23633797
> 
> 
> These are almost the identical problems I had with my D2v. The setup menu would almost always work after the unit it started up but after using the unit a while the menu will no longer display and the only way you could get it back was to restart. Also, after viewing my Roku 3 for a period of time when switching to my Tivo DVR hooked up via component there was no video display but the audio was fine. This would happen 100% of the time after viewing a 45 minute program on the Roku. Again, the only way I could ever get the video back for the Tivo was the restart the D2v.
> 
> 
> So at least take a little comfort in knowing you aren't the only one who's had these issues.



Again I state. Don't let them off the hook this is unaceptable


----------



## xtrips

New Firmware coming!

v.3.10 is announced in the Read Me that comes with the Beta firmwares from the tech site.

Here is the description:


CHANGE LIST


v3.10 release candidate


1. Rotating knob very quickly caused front panel display to freeze - fixed.


recalled - reports that surrounds are not always working when input is DD 5.1 are being investigated


In the package the 3.09l is still the latest FW available.


Anyone has encountered the problem described?


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22632755
> 
> 
> Does the 3-D upgrade kit support the ARC(Audio Return Channel) feature?



I have not been able to find an answer to this. Does anyone know?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xtrips*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23634801
> 
> 
> New Firmware coming!
> 
> v.3.10 is announced in the Read Me that comes with the Beta firmwares from the tech site.
> 
> Here is the description:
> 
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v3.10 release candidate
> 
> 
> 1. Rotating knob very quickly caused front panel display to freeze - fixed.
> 
> 
> recalled - reports that surrounds are not always working when input is DD 5.1 are being investigated
> 
> 
> In the package the 3.09l is still the latest FW available.
> 
> 
> Anyone has encountered the problem described?



The v3.10 Release Candidate was pulled due to late discovery -- HERE, I might add! -- that surround speakers were not functioning with Dolby tracks.


That item you are seeing in the Change Notes dates back to July. They just forgot to delete it when they pulled the download file.


Last I heard from Nick, the re-release of a less broken v3.10 was delayed a bit due to vacation schedules.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stevetd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23635343
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38970#post_22632755
> 
> 
> Does the 3-D upgrade kit support the ARC(Audio Return Channel) feature?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have not been able to find an answer to this. Does anyone know?
Click to expand...

It does not.

--Bob


----------



## Stevetd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23635566
> 
> 
> It does not.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks!


----------



## thestewman

Bob P


Question about 3D.


Maybe you can explain exactly what it does and how the D2v 3D works. Let me explain my question further as I am confused about it use.


I have Comcast cable and they have 3D movies etc and my video system plays Passive 3D.

I can and do play the Comcast 3D movies and films without using the D2v 3D Passthru via HDMI.

I can play 3D movies from BD files stored on a Popcorn Hour C200 without using the Passthru feature.


So what does the 3D mode actually do if I can play 3D without it ?


Stew


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23630319
> 
> 
> This is a hard one to digest.
> 
> For a long time Anthem has been saying it is Scientific Atlanta's bad HDMI that causes problems with their PVR.
> 
> Why do we not see owners of other AVR's and Pre pros in other forums complaining en mass ?
> 
> Unless Anthem can justify their units not working I think it might be a cop out.



+1


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. This could take some explaining but will try and cover everything. Some members here know of my introduction to owning the D2v with 2 units arriving with faulty video boards and then a 2 month wait for a 3rd unit which in it's first year developed a display issue which required sending to a service centre and had it fully replaced. This was at the time when the D2v dropped in price so for us Aussies it was obtainable at under $8000AUD. I'm now encountering a new problem and I just can't put my finger on what it causing the issue but I believe it's the D2v and it's sensitivity to static electricity. I'm using XLR's from my Krell TAS 5 channel amp to the D2v and HDMI to my Oppo-95 and HDMI 1 to the JVC X-35 Projector so a simple setup no TV box or Foxtel etc. Now I was able to borrow an Antimode 2.0 for testing as mentioned in an earlier post and all I did was remove the XLR's from the D2v for the subs and connect to the Antimode while everything was off. I should also mention that about 4-5 months ago I had my whole electric box replaced and mains from street replaced to allow more power from 30amp to 60amp and had the house re earthed. I have a Thor module CM-90 installed in the wall which the Krell is connected to to prevent power spikes etc and the Oppo and D2v and connected to a Throughbred power board seen here:

http://www.rkcable.com.au/Thoroughbred.htm 


Here is the wall unit from Thor that the Krell is connected to (15amp Version):

http://www.rkcable.com.au/ThorTechCM90.htm 


And this is on the main board which is connected to a wall point that the power board is plugged into:

http://www.rkcable.com.au/Clipsal970MF20.htm 


So as you can see I've got things covered for interference or spikes. This is why I believe something is wrong with the XLR/HDMI board on the Anthem as it's happened before and I put it down to me cleaning the top of the anthem for dust with a nylon duster (not anymore) which was creating static and the buzzing would appear but only in the front right speaker only. So the same thing occurred 2 nights ago when I removed the Antimode as I'm done testing it and the buzzing came back, and I simply couldn't get rid of it no matter what I tried, disconnecting XLR's and HDMI's, turning mains off etc. So last night when I got home turning on the system and the buzzing was there from only the front right speaker so if I pulled out the XLR front right connector while amp was on only and if I touched the end and then touched something like the Oppo case then buzzing goes away. I pulled all the XLR's out from the Anthem and they all produced crackling or static sound when touched or went close to each other. I also removed the HDMI from the Audio 1 input that runs from the Oppo and that also produced a buzzing from the same speaker but again went away if i touch the end of the cable and touched something else that was metal like the antenna connector in the wall.


Well after spending over 2hrs trying different things I thought what is earthed and grounded to the house which should be the antenna connection in the wall. With this in mind I connected the aerial cable to the D2v then to the wall and switched the Anthem to FM radio and I listened to the buzzing as it got less and less until it was completely gone and that's all I did. So my question is, is there an issue with my D2v? Surely this is not normal and the unit can't be that sensitive to static from being touch by me could it? Has anyone else encountered anything remotely similar with their Anthems?


Sorry for the long post but I had to explain in detail to save members asking questions about the setup. I should also mention that all the cables used are high quality being these:


XLR's:

http://www.clink.com.au/audio/6channel.htm (Picture shows RCA but I had them make XLR version.


HDMI's:

http://www.audioaffair.co.uk/Chord-Active-1.3b-HDMI-Cable/product_2751 (For Oppo to D2v 1m length)

http://www.clink.com.au/hdmi/hdmi_cables.htm (Kordz EVX HDMI with Ethernet cable on bottom of page 15m length)


----------



## MACCA350

Buzzing in the speakers generally suggest a grounding issue.


As an example I had such an issue when adding my Seaton gear. At the time I had a Denon AVR-3808 with RCA outputs. The adapter cables Mark supplied for the SubMersives had the grounding pin cut, yet the adapter supplied for the Catalysts and Sparks were not cut. The fix for me was to use only the adapters with the ground pin connected(at the time I wasn't using any the Sparks so used their adapter cables). Essentially there was a break in the grounding between the AVR and those speakers with the cut adapter cables. Using a non cut adapter cable connected all equipment to a common ground eliminating the ground hum.


Here's a good article on ground buzz/hum http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-connection/ground-loops-eliminating-system-hum-and-buzz 


Not saying this is the cause but it sounds related to a grounding issue of some sort.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks Macca. Not sure if your situation can be implemented into my setup as the only component that doesn't have a 3 pin/prong in the power is the D2v as it has only 2 on the back of the unit, but I'm using a power cable that does have the 3rd pin/prong (other end) but it wouldn't be active as the Anthem doesn't have it internally. This buzz has not appeared in over a year and a half and only happened when I touched the XLR's when I removed them. I don't know how to ground the Anthem as I believe that's the issue as that's all I touched. The krell has 3 pins/prongs on the back so it can't be that.


Thanks for the reply and link. Will do some reading.


*Update* I found this device which may solve my issue:

http://www.ebtechaudio.com/humxdes.html 


There is an Australian distributor so I've sent them an e-mail to see what it costs and if there's an Australian version which there should be.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23638164
> 
> 
> Thanks Macca. Not sure if your situation can be implemented into my setup as the only component that doesn't have a 3 pin/prong in the power is the D2v as it has only 2 on the back of the unit, but I'm using a power cable that does have the 3rd pin/prong (other end) but it wouldn't be active as the Anthem doesn't have it internally. This buzz has not appeared in over a year and a half and only happened when I touched the XLR's when I removed them. I don't know how to ground the Anthem as I believe that's the issue as that's all I touched. The krell has 3 pins/prongs on the back so it can't be that.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply and link. Will do some reading.
> 
> 
> *Update* I found this device which may solve my issue:
> 
> http://www.ebtechaudio.com/humxdes.html
> 
> 
> There is an Australian distributor so I've sent them an e-mail to see what it costs and if there's an Australian version which there should be.


Not sure on that device, it may help but I don't know what actually does


I was referring to the ground pin on the XLR to RCA adapter that Mark supplies not the power plugs. The anthem grounds through its input/output connections and there's also a grounding screw on the back that can be used. I suspect my issue was because those XLR adapters had their grounding pin cut there was a difference in grounding between the anthem and the devices that were grounded through the input/output and the SubMersives that were not grounding through the input lead.


You mention this "only happened when I touched the XLR's when I removed them." It's possible there's a flakey connection inside the XLR cables. Could also be some strange interaction with those protection device you're using, dunno but ground hum/buzz can be a real gremlin to deal with.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10

Right ok. How does one use the grounding screw on the D2v? I guess it could be the Krell as it's in it's own wall plate not wired with the rest of the components which is why I bought the Thor CM90 module to eliminate/reduce any interference. As you mentioned this issue can take awhile to resolve so I will keep on trying but for now the buzzing is gone.


For interest sake here is the XLR configuration explained in the Krell manual:

*The XLR pin configuration is described below:

Pin 1 Shield (ground)

Pin 2 Non-inverting (hot) (0°)

Pin 3 Inverting (cold) (180°)*


I have sent the cable maker (Clink Cables) an e-mail asking if he made my cable to suit being used with the Krell. His workmanship is excellent and have been dealing with him for awhile now.


----------



## thestewman

Sounds like exactly what the other poster has stated. You have a ground loop.

Obtain a digital voltmeter and test between your devices for an AC voltage reading above the ground potential. I would suspect one of your isolating AC devices is the culprit. Especially since you say you could hear the buzz slowly dying off as if a capacitor was slowly charging and assuming the AC voltage.

A process of elimination usually works out the best. I would probably try using unfiltered AC direct form your AC entrance panel/board as a first try. This would be a good starting point.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23638974
> 
> 
> Sounds like exactly what the other poster has stated. You have a ground loop.
> 
> Obtain a digital voltmeter and test between your devices for an AC voltage reading above the ground potential. I would suspect one of your isolating AC devices is the culprit. Especially since you say you could hear the buzz slowly dying off as if a capacitor was slowly charging and assuming the AC voltage.
> 
> A process of elimination usually works out the best. I would probably try using unfiltered AC direct form your AC entrance panel/board as a first try. This would be a good starting point.



Thanks for the advice. Yep this issue is really bothering me now as the buzzing has returned this morning after it went away last night but turned on just the amp and buzzing is there. Went to my local Bunnings and they didn't have a Multi Meter or Voltmeter but I know Dick Smith sell them but now I'm just thinking of getting my sparky to come over as he did the electric job and installed the new Meter box and put in the Thor CM-90 into the wall plate for the Krell. Otherwise I will wait until I receive the email for the Hum X device and see if that can rectify the issue and will be cheaper than getting an electrician over.


Can't believe this started with just installing the Antimode and removing and connecting a few XLR's. Makes no sense as the system has performed perfectly for over a year with no buzzing at all.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If you have a Ground Loop, it is actually quite common for the addition of a new device into the system to reveal it. That's simply because the new device completes a missing link in the Ground Loop path so that the garbage current can flow.


A Ground Loop is garbage current that flows between the devices in your setup along the shields of the cables that connect them, looking for a path back to ground so current can flow. The devices in that path don't even have to be ON -- they just have to be connected. You can stop the effect of the Ground Loop by breaking the circuit path in various ways, but that's just a stopgap measure, as the real cause of the problem still exists -- constantly seeking a DIFFERENT path to ground so garbage current can flow again. The REAL fix for a Ground Loop is to find the source of the garbage in the first place.


That can be a daunting task as you have to strip out connections and then reconnect devices in various, minimal combinations until you isolate the source.


Fortunately, the two most common sources for Ground Loop garbage are easy to identify.


The single most common source these days is garbage that comes into your system on the cable shield of a cable or satellite TV feed wire. Proving that's the culprit is easy. Just disconnect that feed wire where it comes out of the wall. If the hum/buzz goes away, then that's the culprit. Fix this by fixing the grounding where that feed line ENTERS your house.


The next most common source is due to having more than one power circuit feeding your set of equipment. If the power circuits are at different "ground potential" then Ground Loop current will flow between them. The power that comes into your house is "3 phase" power. Simply put, that means there are two different ways each circuit breaker can be attached to the incoming power. And breakers attached to the opposite rails will often have different ground potential. The way the typical circuit breaker box is laid out, breakers in the box directly above or below each other attach to the opposite rails. And if the electrician adding extra circuits to your home theater was not aware that your equipment cared about having everything at the same ground potential, you can see it would be quite easy for him to install the new breaker(s) on opposite rails. The fix is easy. Get him back in there and have him reposition the breakers in the breaker box.


To test whether THIS is the cause you need to temporarily power your equipment from the SAME wall power circuit. It helps if you can trim things down to the minimum number of devices that need to be plugged in (and connected to each other) to exhibit the problem. Even so, you may need to power things up one at at time to keep from popping the breaker -- particularly due to the draw of the power amps which should be turned on first.


If neither of those is the culprit, then a third possibility is that you have a faulty device in your theater which is presenting voltage on its chassis ground. There's no easy way to find the culprit -- you have to try connection combos in a logical manner. A device which is doing this needs to be repaired. It should not be allowing voltage to leak to its chassis.


Again, the NEW device you added which caused the problem to appear may not be the source AT ALL. It simply adds a critical additional connection combo which finally allows the garbage current from the REAL source to flow to ground.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Thank you Bob for your post was very helpful and hope with that information on hand now I can get rid of this problem. I just can't understand with all that I have implemented and the money spent to prevent this type of thing happening, it's happening with just a simple thing as adding an Antimode into the chain and removing it. I wish now I never borrowed it for testing.


Just so your information I don't have cable or satellite tv, my system couldn't be more simple- Bluray player, Anthem,Projector and Amp all using XLR which is supposed to reduce interference than using RCA's pus the above mentioned electrical devices which again are supposed to eliminate these sort of things which leads me to believe it's either the Krell or the Anthem and my money is on the Anthem going by the endless issues I've had with these units.


So as I asked above is there something I can do with the grounding screw that's on the back of the D2v as mentioned by Macca? Also I can't use the same wall outlet with the Krell as it uses a 15amp plug as opposed to a 10amp which is why I have a 15amp wall plate and why I bought the Thor CM-90 filter module just for that plate. The Oppo and Anthem are plugged into the same wall outlet via the Throughbred board which on the main power board outside has this installed on that circuit:

http://www.rkcable.com.au/Clipsal970MF20.htm 


Ok turned system on after getting home and buzzing is there. So with everything off except the Krell I pulled out the HDMI from the Oppo to the audio 1 on the anthem and buzzing stops. I put back in the HDMI into the Oppo buzzing starts and then I removed the power plug from the Oppo (unit is off and wall point is off) and buzzing stops. Put back in the power plug into the Oppo buzzing starts and I tried 2 other wall outlets and the buzzing remains.


Also turned on Anthem and Krell amp took out Right Front XLR from Anthem and if I hold the XLR with fingers on the end and touch the Oppo chassis the buzzing stops. If I touch the Krell while holding XLR the buzzing stops. Just turned off Krell removed the XLR's from amp turned on the rest of the system then connected XLR's back into the Krell turned it on and the buzzing is gone. I've done this before and it only lasts a short while but it's gone while I'm using the system but it will most likely come back when I turn on the amp only tomorrow morning.


Forgot to mention that the 2 Submersives are not currently connected as I've sent the amps off for a credit and upgrading to the HP+ amps for both, so after what you said Macca about your Cats I wonder if the Submersives were completing the ground of my system. Now that there out and the buzzing has come back seems too much of a coincidence.


----------



## mkaye

i went through the entire exercise with my system

start at the amp with nothing connected and start working your way back 1 connection at a time

it may be a longer process if the buzzing doesn't start immediately (that is weird!)

note: the xlr connectors are for removing hum induced in the wire run, not for ground loops

as stated make sure for this test that all equipment is plugged into the same outlet

don't assume that there is just 1 problem

each ground loop found (if more than 1) might require a different solution


mark


i had a ground loop because of the cable connection, grounding the input to the house did not fix it (it should have) - a ground isolator on the incoming cable did

later i found that i had hot & neutral reversed on the outlet to the system, which was why grounding the cable didn't work

as Bob stated, find the source of the problem & correct it, rather than trying to fix the symptom in front of you


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23638390
> 
> 
> For interest sake here is the XLR configuration explained in the Krell manual:
> 
> *The XLR pin configuration is described below:
> 
> Pin 1 Shield (ground)
> 
> Pin 2 Non-inverting (hot) (0°)
> 
> Pin 3 Inverting (cold) (180°)*
> 
> 
> I have sent the cable maker (Clink Cables) an e-mail asking if he made my cable to suit being used with the Krell. His workmanship is excellent and have been dealing with him for awhile now.



In case he asks, that matches the XLR pin configuration of the Anthem (p.88 of the user manual).


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23641035
> 
> 
> So as I asked above is there something I can do with the grounding screw that's on the back of the D2v as mentioned by Macca? Also I can't use the same wall outlet with the Krell as it uses a 15amp plug as opposed to a 10amp which is why I have a 15amp wall plate and why I bought the Thor CM-90 filter module just for that plate. The Oppo and Anthem are plugged into the same wall outlet via the Throughbred board which on the main power board outside has this installed on that circuit:
> 
> http://www.rkcable.com.au/Clipsal970MF20.htm
> 
> 
> Ok turned system on after getting home and buzzing is there. So with everything off except the Krell I pulled out the HDMI from the Oppo to the audio 1 on the anthem and buzzing stops. I put back in the HDMI into the Oppo buzzing starts and then I removed the power plug from the Oppo (unit is off and wall point is off) and buzzing stops. Put back in the power plug into the Oppo buzzing starts and I tried 2 other wall outlets and the buzzing remains.
> 
> 
> Also turned on Anthem and Krell amp took out Right Front XLR from Anthem and if I hold the XLR with fingers on the end and touch the Oppo chassis the buzzing stops. If I touch the Krell while holding XLR the buzzing stops. Just turned off Krell removed the XLR's from amp turned on the rest of the system then connected XLR's back into the Krell turned it on and the buzzing is gone. I've done this before and it only lasts a short while but it's gone while I'm using the system but it will most likely come back when I turn on the amp only tomorrow morning.
> 
> 
> Forgot to mention that the 2 Submersives are not currently connected as I've sent the amps off for a credit and upgrading to the HP+ amps for both, so after what you said Macca about your Cats I wonder if the Submersives were completing the ground of my system. Now that there out and the buzzing has come back seems too much of a coincidence.



Right, makes sense. As someone already mentioned the Anthem is being grounded via interconnects to other components (XLR pin 1 to Krell and HDMI to Oppo) which are on different AC circuits. The problem is probably what Bob said about the Krell circuit and Oppo circuit being at different ground potentials. Breaking connection to either one is stopping the ground loop. If adding the subs to the system stops the buzzing there is a good chance that connecting the Anthem ground terminal to another chassis on that circuit (Oppo) will also stop the symptom. You might want to check with Anthem Tech Support on how to hook it up, if there's not enough info in the user manual. However the real solution is to have the electrician correct the AC circuit(s).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The Ground screw on the Anthem chassis is for attaching the ground wire from a turntable phono amp (very low voltage; needs extra care to assure ground is matched with that of the preamp). It won't help with your ground loop problem. Indeed, what is letting the garbage current flow is that you have so MANY ground connections between your devices over the cable shields of the interconnect cables.


That separate wall power for the amp is a likely culprit.


Attaching MORE devices to reduce the hum simply means you've created an alternate path for the garbage to flow which isn't being picked up by the audio circuits. It is NOT a fix. The fix is to find and eliminate the source of the garbage.


Ground Loop garbage current flow can have other effects as well such as video interference (looks like horizontal lines that scroll slowly upward). Now that you know you have a Ground Loop problem, fixing the source should be your goal, not just a bandaid solution like using a two prong cheater plug on the OPPO's three prong power cord. (Which, given your latest discovery, would likely also appear to "fix" the hum.)

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

I got my new mic from Anthem the Thursday. On Wednesday I decided to try to get rid the 40hz dip in my subs. Using 'quick measure' I did some some tweaking with positioning the subs and setting phase in the subs. I got the best QM reading by setting one sub's phase to 150* and leaving the other at 0*. The subs are both on the front wall facing into the room away from the corners, and fairly equidistant from the MLP. I wouldn't have thought changing the phase, especially to 150*, would make a positive difference, bit it seemed to. Any thoughts on this from you guys would be appreciated.

I then decided to do a new ARC run with the old mic so that I could compare it to the ARC run I did on Thursday after I got my new mic.

The first 3 images are the music charts and targets for the run with the old mic.
 
 
 


These next 2 pictures are the music chart and targets using the new mic.
 
 


Please notice a couple things.

First the huge dip at 11khz with the old mic is gone!









There seems to be a bigger dip at 1-2khz with the new mic. I don't know why, unless its really there, and the old mic wasn't picking it up. ARC seems to be taking care of it.


Next, please notice the difference in the room gain for movie and music in the run with the new mic. The uploaded speaker levels were also different for movie sub (-0.5) and music sub (-1.5) in the Anthem setup menu.

In the run with the old mic I used Bob's method of making a 'same as movie' run and changing the speaker configuration by 'n'-ing out the unused speakers for music. The room gain is the same in with Bob's method, and the uploaded speaker levels were the same for movie and music subs.


Now ,since I made two separate runs for the ARC run with the new mic --one for a 5.1/movie setup and a 2.1/music setup-- I can't guarantee that I positioned in exactly the same spots for the 5 different mic positions in each run, but I did my best to make them as close to the same positions as humanly possible.

The lower room gain for music and the reduced speaker level uploaded for the music sub are consistent with the many ARC runs I have made using separate movie/music runs. The room gain is always lower, usually 0.5db to 1.0db less. The music speaker level for the sub is consistently lower also, usually around 1.0db less.


In all the ARC runs I have done over the years (I'd guess at least 30 runs) I have always had these same findings--lower room gain and sub speaker level for music. I'm pretty sure if it were due to mic positioning that some time the movie/music room gain and sub speaker levels would have been reversed, with the music settings being higher than the movie's. But this has never happened.


Has anyone else had these findings when doing separate ARC runs for movie and music ?? Would anyone who uses different speaker setups for movies and music be willing to do separate movie/music runs the next time you run ARC and post your findings. It might not prove that there are different algorithms for movie and music in ARC, but there has to be some reason for the differences when doing separate runs.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I believe your Movie/Music differences are simply due to the different speaker count. ARC adjusts the volume trims to reduce the dips it has to fill (it being better to attenuate peaks). With higher Room Gain there are deeper dips. Meanwhile the Room Gain measurement has to account for the data from more speakers for your Movie.


I bet if you enabled all the speakers for Music but still did two passes, you'd get close to identical Movie and Music results.


And if you cut the number of speakers in Movie and Measured only those, you'd get a result that matches your Music.


I.E., this all seems to be "normal" to me.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

^

Your probably right, but why is there not a difference in room gain when you 'n' out speakers? Isn't ARC only using the active speakers to make the calculation? Why wouldn't that lower the room gain?

And why is the music sub speaker level always lower than the movie sub when doing a separate run for music? It seems that ARC is purposely lowering the bass level for music when a separate run is made. Its as if the developers of ARC prefer more bass for movies than for music.


I guess it really doesn't matter as long as it sounds good, and it does. Great actually. I might be deluding myself, but I do think I get a slightly better results making separate runs, and the time involved doing a 2.1 ARC run is negligible.


I guess to prove that there is a difference in ARC between movie and music I would have to make separate runs, but both with the same number of speakers, and see if there is a difference in room gain and uploaded sub speaker level, like you said. Maybe next time.


In the meantime I'll just enjoy.










Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23643318
> 
> 
> ^
> 
> Your probably right, but why is there not a difference in room gain when you 'n' out speakers? Isn't ARC only using the active speakers to make the calculation? Why wouldn't that lower the room gain?
> 
> And why is the music sub speaker level always lower than the movie sub when doing a separate run for music? It seems that ARC is purposely lowering the bass level for music when a separate run is made. Its as if the developers of ARC prefer more bass for movies than for music.
> 
> 
> I guess it really doesn't matter as long as it sounds good, and it does. Great actually. I might be deluding myself, but I do think I get a slightly better results making separate runs, and the time involved doing a 2.1 ARC run is negligible.
> 
> 
> I guess to prove that there is a difference in ARC between movie and music I would have to make separate runs, but both with the same number of speakers, and see if there is a difference in room gain and uploaded sub speaker level, like you said. Maybe next time.
> 
> 
> In the meantime I'll just enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



This may be the answer Tom


All Dolby Digital and DTS consumers and professionals 5.1 processors automatically add 10 dB to the LFE channel to restore the level balance between the main channels and the LFE channel as was originally heard in the studio.

http://www.genelec.com/faq/multichannel/102-in-a-dolby-digital-or-dts-51-system-should-subwoofer-level-be-aligned-up-or-down-by-10-db/


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23643318
> 
> 
> ^
> 
> Your probably right, but why is there not a difference in room gain when you 'n' out speakers? Isn't ARC only using the active speakers to make the calculation? Why wouldn't that lower the room gain?
> 
> And why is the music sub speaker level always lower than the movie sub when doing a separate run for music? It seems that ARC is purposely lowering the bass level for music when a separate run is made. Its as if the developers of ARC prefer more bass for movies than for music.
> 
> 
> I guess it really doesn't matter as long as it sounds good, and it does. Great actually. I might be deluding myself, but I do think I get a slightly better results making separate runs, and the time involved doing a 2.1 ARC run is negligible.
> 
> 
> I guess to prove that there is a difference in ARC between movie and music I would have to make separate runs, but both with the same number of speakers, and see if there is a difference in room gain and uploaded sub speaker level, like you said. Maybe next time.
> 
> 
> In the meantime I'll just enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Because the Targets are built from the Measured data in the preliminary analysis. When you "n" out the speakers that's not redone. The only way Room Gain changes at that point is if you change it Manually.


Next time you do a Measurement pass, reverse Movie and Music. I.e., less speakers in Movie and more in Music. I think you'll find that the differences you've found reverse as well.

--Bob


----------



## turk 182




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41310#post_23615541
> 
> 
> Check these items
> 
> 
> That you Did Not set your sub as Super
> 
> 
> That you Did Not set your other speakers to Large as this adds low frequency sound from other channels to the sub
> 
> 
> That you Did Not select 2 subs in your setup
> 
> 
> That you are using C weighted and slow response in your SPL meter
> 
> 
> That you Did zero the SPL before starting
> 
> 
> 
> Then you need to exactly perform these steps, without skipping any, these guidelines, that I changed a little for clarity and updating,that were written originally by Bob P
> 
> 
> Prior to running the ARC measurements, there is another step to do to get the test tone volumes correct:
> 
> 
> Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration.
> 
> *Set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB.*
> 
> 
> Then set Noise sequence to Manual in the first line and scroll down to the TEST LEVEL line.
> 
> Adjust the Test level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up).
> 
> *Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, only adjust the Test Level line.*
> 
> 
> ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by theTest Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line.
> 
> So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Test Level line.]
> 
> 
> Now scroll to the Subwoofer line.
> 
> *Leave that line at 0dB*
> 
> 
> Adjust the volume knob on your subwoofer until it measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position.
> 
> There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.
> 
> 
> ARC will use the Test Level settings you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones.
> 
> The adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, will be level adjusted properly to match.
> 
> 
> If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.
> 
> 
> Back out of the Setup menu. Run the ARC application."
> 
> 
> Let us know how it works out after you do this Test Level setup for ARC
> 
> 
> Stew




Just wanted to tell you thanks. I tried this and ran ARC again and finally my sub has woken up!! Watched The Dark Knight Rises, which is one of the best sounding movies I`ve ever heard, and it sounded phenomenal. Best my system has sounded!! Thanks man.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23643720
> 
> 
> Because the Targets are built from the Measured data in the preliminary analysis. When you "n" out the speakers that's not redone. The only way Room Gain changes at that point is if you change it Manually.
> 
> 
> Next time you do a Measurement pass, reverse Movie and Music. I.e., less speakers in Movie and more in Music. I think you'll find that the differences you've found reverse as well.
> 
> --Bob



The more I thought about it the more I'm sure you're right. The findings would be reversed if using 2.1 for movie and 5.1 for music. Movie and Music are just A and B, or Fred and Ethel.


But the more I thought about it the more I think doing a separate movie and music ARC runs (if you use different speaker setups for movie and music) should be the suggested procedure. If there is measurable difference between a 5.1 and 2.1, or between 7.1 and 2.0 for that matter, then a separate run would seem to be advisable.

Doing the 'n' thing to remove speakers is easier, but if it not as accurate and does not get as accurate a ARC correction, then I'll continue to do separate movie/music runs. It takes just 50% more time to sweep 3 speakers at 5 positions after the original ARC 5.1 sweeps at 5 positions.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23644050
> 
> 
> The more I thought about it the more I'm sure you're right. The findings would be reversed if using 2.1 for movie and 5.1 for music. Movie and Music are just A and B, or Fred and Ethel.
> 
> 
> But the more I thought about it the more I think doing a separate movie and music ARC runs (if you use different speaker setups for movie and music) should be the suggested procedure. If there is measurable difference between a 5.1 and 2.1, or between 7.1 and 2.0 for that matter, then a separate run would seem to be advisable.
> 
> Doing the 'n' thing to remove speakers is easier, but if it not as accurate and does not get as accurate a ARC correction, then I'll continue to do separate movie/music runs. It takes just 50% more time to sweep 3 speakers at 5 positions after the original ARC 5.1 sweeps at 5 positions.
> 
> 
> Tom



+1


----------



## Shayne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23644050
> 
> 
> The more I thought about it the more I'm sure you're right. The findings would be reversed if using 2.1 for movie and 5.1 for music. Movie and Music are just A and B, or Fred and Ethel.
> 
> 
> But the more I thought about it the more I think doing a separate movie and music ARC runs (if you use different speaker setups for movie and music) should be the suggested procedure. If there is measurable difference between a 5.1 and 2.1, or between 7.1 and 2.0 for that matter, then a separate run would seem to be advisable.
> 
> Doing the 'n' thing to remove speakers is easier, but if it not as accurate and does not get as accurate a ARC correction, then I'll continue to do separate movie/music runs. It takes just 50% more time to sweep 3 speakers at 5 positions after the original ARC 5.1 sweeps at 5 positions.
> 
> 
> Tom



Hi


I have found this also and always run the 2.1 music run for the difference in room gain and volumes. If you would like to be more accurate, I would suggest that you run the 10 point measurement positions, the more data the better when it comes to arc.


Regards


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23641447
> 
> 
> In case he asks, that matches the XLR pin configuration of the Anthem (p.88 of the user manual).



Thanks for that. No real progress on the issue but once again the issue goes away if I unplug the XLR's from the Krell turn it off then on and it's gone but leave it overnight in standby with the rest of the equipment and it's back the next morning. I have sent text messages to my electrician asking for him to come over but nothing set as yet. The cable guy got back to me and has suggested like others to get a Multimeter and test the cables and explained how to do it.


Thanks again for all the assist and suggestions so far really appreciate it guys.


----------



## AVfile

Cool.


I thought Nick @ Anthem said the ground screw could be used to effectively make it into a 3-pronged device, not just for a turntable.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23646328
> 
> 
> Thanks for that. No real progress on the issue but once again the issue goes away if I unplug the XLR's from the Krell turn it off then on and it's gone but leave it overnight in standby with the rest of the equipment and it's back the next morning. I have sent text messages to my electrician asking for him to come over but nothing set as yet. The cable guy got back to me and has suggested like others to get a Multimeter and test the cables and explained how to do it.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for all the assist and suggestions so far really appreciate it guys.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23646438
> 
> 
> Cool.
> 
> 
> I thought Nick @ Anthem said the ground screw could be used to effectively make it into a 3-pronged device, not just for a turntable.



AVfile


Absolutely correct



Simon10


What you described above with touching the terminal or end of the disconnected XLR with your finger confirms what we have attempted to explain.

You essentially are grounding the end of the disconnected wire.


I recall someone else in Australia or New Zealand months ago on a different forum with the same devices,The Thor CM-90 and Hum X devices and having a hum problem.

Those must be popular with the electrical trades people..


As a first step you might try this. Connect one end of a wire #16 or #18 to the grounding screw of the D2v. Turn on all your other devices. Take the free end of thr wire and momentarily touch an unpainted bare metal area of your other units and see if the hum disappears. .


A next step would be to bypass the Thor CM-90 and Hum X devices completely as a test if the hum is corrected.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23646957
> 
> 
> 
> AVfile
> 
> 
> Absolutely correct
> 
> 
> 
> Simon10
> 
> 
> What you described above with touching the terminal or end of the disconnected XLR with your finger confirms what we have attempted to explain.
> 
> You essentially are grounding the end of the disconnected wire.
> 
> 
> I recall someone else in Australia or New Zealand months ago on a different forum with the same devices,The Thor CM-90 and Hum X devices and having a hum problem.
> 
> Those must be popular with the electrical trades people..
> 
> 
> As a first step you might try this. Connect one end of a wire #16 or #18 to the grounding screw of the D2v. Turn on all your other devices. Take the free end of thr wire and momentarily touch an unpainted bare metal area of your other units and see if the hum disappears. .
> 
> 
> A next step would be to bypass the Thor CM-90 and Hum X devices completely as a test if the hum is corrected.



Thanks for that. I'm not running a Hum X as the place got back to me saying there not sold here in Australia (the single plug version). I can't bypass the CM-90 as it's hard wired behind the wall plate and requires an electrician to install/uninstall. I'm assuming with the #16/#18 your referring to the gauge of the wire?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23647472
> 
> 
> Thanks for that. I'm not running a Hum X as the place got back to me saying there not sold here in Australia (the single plug version). I can't bypass the CM-90 as it's hard wired behind the wall plate and requires an electrician to install/uninstall. I'm assuming with the #16/#18 your referring to the gauge of the wire?



Yes, the gauge of the wire. It does not have to be a heavy gauge.


It would also be a another good test if you could plug all your devices into an AC outlet without the CM-90.

Not that the CM-90 is the cause but to get all the devices on one electric run as a test.

Maybe secure a heavy extension cord with a multi adapter to use temporarily.

The electrician may have wired the CM-90 to an opposite phase or inverted the pos/neutral.

I am not familiar with European 3 phase wiring.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23634184
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23632168
> 
> 
> And I find that is the problem.
> 
> So many Anthem owners voice complaints about a complicated audio video device and Anthem stonewalls most of them.
> 
> I have experienced several audio problems and some other defects and Anthem has never handled the tech service in a positive way.
> 
> Why are we as owners allowing this to occur ? If there was enough negative comments on this forum and on Facebook maybe Anthem would take a different stance.
> 
> The Anthem units are excellent complicated devices with some inherent defects that Anthem refuses or does does not want to address and when they take that stance we let them.
> 
> The normal Anthem response if you persist on addressing an issue that is not affecting a large number of users. Anthem will refuse to respond.
> 
> 
> I encourage anyone with a defect to keep pressing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Picasso Moon*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23633797
> 
> 
> These are almost the identical problems I had with my D2v. The setup menu would almost always work after the unit it started up but after using the unit a while the menu will no longer display and the only way you could get it back was to restart. Also, after viewing my Roku 3 for a period of time when switching to my Tivo DVR hooked up via component there was no video display but the audio was fine. This would happen 100% of the time after viewing a 45 minute program on the Roku. Again, the only way I could ever get the video back for the Tivo was the restart the D2v.
> 
> 
> So at least take a little comfort in knowing you aren't the only one who's had these issues.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Again I state. Don't let them off the hook this is unaceptable
Click to expand...

And to make things more frustrating, if the setup menu screen decides to come back on and you exit THEN I get the dreaded 'Pink screen of Death'. My Plasma setup in RGB mode in the Anthem and Plasma control menu shows pink video! This shows up so far on my cable box input.

 

I have to force an HDMI handshake by toggling to another HDMI input and back and then it clears to normal video... Like others have said, I've communicated with Anthem on this issue and was never resolved as they couldn't duplicate it themselves( I guess). I gave up as well.

 

Sort of like if the only doctor/specialist in the country tells you there's nothing more he can do for your terminal illness ....


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23647591
> 
> 
> Yes, the gauge of the wire. It does not have to be a heavy gauge.
> 
> 
> It would also be a another good test if you could plug all your devices into an AC outlet without the CM-90.
> 
> Not that the CM-90 is the cause but to get all the devices on one electric run as a test.
> 
> Maybe secure a heavy extension cord with a multi adapter to use temporarily.
> 
> The electrician may have wired the CM-90 to an opposite phase or inverted the pos/neutral.
> 
> I am not familiar with European 3 phase wiring.



The Krell uses a 15amp wall outlet not 10amp which is standard for everything else that's why I can't run everything into one point for testing. My electrician is coming over next Tuesday at the earliest as his booked up until then and he is going to check the CM-90 he installed ( his apprentice did it) while he stood at the metre box and was testing the circuit, but that was in 2011 and before I got the whole meter box replaced by him with a new power line cable running from the street (from 30amps to 60amps). I was able to borrow a multimeter from my friend so I can start testing the wall outlets and the XLR cables.


----------



## jo5507




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23647954
> 
> 
> The Krell uses a 15amp wall outlet not 10amp which is standard for everything else that's why I can't run everything into one point for testing. My electrician is coming over next Tuesday at the earliest as his booked up until then and he is going to check the CM-90 he installed ( his apprentice did it) while he stood at the metre box and was testing the circuit, but that was in 2011 and before I got the whole meter box replaced by him with a new power line cable running from the street (from 30amps to 60amps). I was able to borrow a multimeter from my friend so I can start testing the wall outlets and the XLR cables.



Did I read earlier that you only get this this buzz from 1 front speaker? In my experience with ground loop hum, it always occurs in both, not just 1 channel.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23647954
> 
> 
> The Krell uses a 15amp wall outlet not 10amp which is standard for everything else that's why I can't run everything into one point for testing. My electrician is coming over next Tuesday at the earliest as his booked up until then and he is going to check the CM-90 he installed ( his apprentice did it) while he stood at the metre box and was testing the circuit, but that was in 2011 and before I got the whole meter box replaced by him with a new power line cable running from the street (from 30amps to 60amps). I was able to borrow a multimeter from my friend so I can start testing the wall outlets and the XLR cables.



It is not the wall outlets you check other than having the electrician check for reversed phasing . Check each audio and video device from a bare metal spot on the device to ground and watch for a voltage reading. Check also between the devices.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jo5507*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23651469
> 
> 
> Did I read earlier that you only get this this buzz from 1 front speaker? In my experience with ground loop hum, it always occurs in both, not just 1 channel.



No just the front right speaker only.


----------



## SimonNo10

I think I've made a break through with the buzzing issue. I connected some wire to the grounding screw on the D2v and touched the positive speaker banana plug of the front right speaker on the Krell and the buzzing stopped straightaway. What does this mean? Is there an issue with that input on the power amp?


This was after touching the Oppo and nothing but as soon as I touched the speaker cable banana plug end of the front right speaker positive end (red) connected into the Krell it went away instantly.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23651885
> 
> 
> I think I've made a break through with the buzzing issue. I connected some wire to the grounding screw on the D2v and touched the positive speaker banana plug of the front right speaker on the Krell and the buzzing stopped straightaway. What does this mean? Is there an issue with that input on the power amp?
> 
> 
> This was after touching the Oppo and nothing but as soon as I touched the speaker cable banana plug end of the front right speaker positive end (red) connected into the Krell it went away instantly.


Um, that's not a good idea......assuming the XLR's are still connected its likely the anthem chassis is grounding through the XLR's to the Krell's(and others) ground. So basically you just short circuited the Krell's right front speaker output......ie speaker output positive to ground(the negative speaker output is usually connected to ground internally).


Please don't go touching that grounded wire to any live positive terminals. The point of the exercise was to touch the chassis of other equipment.


Cheers


----------



## AV_mike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23651885
> 
> 
> I think I've made a break through with the buzzing issue. I connected some wire to the grounding screw on the D2v and touched the positive speaker banana plug of the front right speaker on the Krell and the buzzing stopped straightaway. What does this mean? Is there an issue with that input on the power amp?
> 
> 
> This was after touching the Oppo and nothing but as soon as I touched the speaker cable banana plug end of the front right speaker positive end (red) connected into the Krell it went away instantly.



When checking for ground problems you should only try joining the case of each item to a common point, or screening of cables - but never the actual signal lines. I would assume that you may have simply caused the Krell to trip out - and hope that you haven't actually blown one side of its output stage.

Have you checked that all channels are still working?

Hum in one channels could indicate a faulty channel, normally any particular device with a ground issue will cause noise on all of the channels it is connected to.

Regards Mike.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV_mike*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23652016
> 
> 
> When checking for ground problems you should only try joining the case of each item to a common point, or screening of cables - but never the actual signal lines. I would assume that you may have simply caused the Krell to trip out - and hope that you haven't actually blown one side of its output stage.
> 
> Have you checked that all channels are still working?
> 
> Hum in one channels could indicate a faulty channel, normally any particular device with a ground issue will cause noise on all of the channels it is connected to.
> 
> Regards Mike.



Yes I guess that could have happened but I tested all channels and there all working. If the buzzing occurs again I won't touch the wire to the input. I will have to assume the channel is faulty and organise a repair. Thanks for the reply and advice.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23652010
> 
> 
> Um, that's not a good idea......assuming the XLR's are still connected its likely the anthem chassis is grounding through the XLR's to the Krell's(and others) ground. So basically you just short circuited the Krell's right front speaker output......ie speaker output positive to ground(the negative speaker output is usually connected to ground internally).
> 
> 
> Please don't go touching that grounded wire to any live positive terminals. The point of the exercise was to touch the chassis of other equipment.
> 
> 
> Cheers


*+1*


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23652079
> 
> 
> Yes I guess that could have happened but I tested all channels and there all working. If the buzzing occurs again I won't touch the wire to the input. I will have to assume the channel is faulty and organise a repair. Thanks for the reply and advice.



SimonNo10


If and when the buzzing reoccurs simply switch the _output wires_ on the Krell amp. Left to Right and Right to Left and note if the buzzing moves to the other channel.

If there is no change then switch the _input cables_ to the Krell amp and look for a change in channels.


----------



## TJG55

For your edification and comments.

(Would be nice if the graph posting FAQ could be separated and titled for the forgetful among us.)

Never tried this before but loaded ARC measurements from a MRX 700 to a AVM 40 w/ARC. (Needed to do a quick demo) AVM asked if we wanted to convert file. We said OK.


Equipment: Anthem MRX 700 and AVM 40

Paradigm S 100s, CC590, ADP 590, Sub 15


Here you go:

TJG and Kevin


----------



## TJG55

Sorry,

This was meant for the MRX forum.

TJG


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23653071
> 
> 
> Sorry,
> 
> This was meant for the MRX forum.
> 
> TJG



Nobody will be able to READ Your Graphs over there either.


WAY TOO SMALL


----------



## ReelBandit

Try these graphs.


AMV 40

 
 
 


MRX 700


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23653080
> 
> 
> Nobody will be able to READ Your Graphs over there either.
> 
> 
> WAY TOO SMALL



No they are OK. Right click on the photo and select open in a New Window and they are perfect size to read.


One thing I see is the increase in horsepower the AVM40 has over the MRX700


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23653422
> 
> 
> No they are OK. Right click on the photo and select open in a New Window and they are perfect size to read.
> 
> 
> One thing I see is the increase in horsepower the AVM40 has over the MRX700



Aimed at the Wrong Person and in the WRONG FORUM


----------



## TJG55

I believe I just stated that.

TJG


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23653750
> 
> 
> I believe I just stated that.
> 
> TJG



3 hours ago does not count as JUST STATED


----------



## TJG55

I stated the error within 19 minutes.....did not realize I had exceeded the time limit.

I grovel in mortification.

TJG


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23653796
> 
> 
> I stated the error within 19 minutes.....did not realize I had exceeded the time limit.
> 
> I grovel in mortification.
> 
> TJG



That was three HOURS ago.


My quote to *thestewman* was that he was quoting the WRONG PERSON.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23653575
> 
> 
> Aimed at the Wrong Person and in the WRONG FORUM





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23653750
> 
> 
> I believe I just stated that.
> 
> TJG



They were also posting about the AVM40 which may logically fall into this forum.

And anyway. If looking for information about ARC where else would be the best place for information ?

This forum has the most experienced users of ARC on the planet.


I consistently look for info on 4K video like REDRAY, ODEMAx etc and with so few flat screen 4K displays there is a wealth of information on the 4K Front Projector forum.

Never has anyone on that forum objected to my posting or questions




Stew


----------



## TJG55

Stew,

Maybe you should be groveling with me.

TJG


----------



## AVfile

Not exactly horrible measurements to begin with, perhaps only the main speakers needed moving away from the wall. I'm willing to bet that some people would actually prefer the sound of those speakers without ARC. Do you recall what the system sounded like with or without ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23653080
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23653071
> 
> 
> Sorry,
> 
> This was meant for the MRX forum.
> 
> TJG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nobody will be able to READ Your Graphs over there either.
> 
> 
> WAY TOO SMALL
Click to expand...

AVS is getting too fancy for its own good.


Click on the "thumbnail" strip of photos in his post. That will open a similar looking thumbnail strip in "gallery view". Then click on any row of that and you'll see a readable sized version of just that pair of charts with the ability to move left or right through the rest of them.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23654192
> 
> 
> AVS is getting too fancy for its own good.
> 
> 
> Click on the "thumbnail" strip of photos in his post. That will open a similar looking thumbnail strip in "gallery view". Then click on any row of that and you'll see a readable sized version of just that pair of charts with the ability to move left or right through the rest of them.
> 
> --Bob



Maybe *TJG55* thinks the people on the MRX Forum have better magnifying glasses.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23652579
> 
> 
> SimonNo10
> 
> 
> If and when the buzzing reoccurs simply switch the _output wires_ on the Krell amp. Left to Right and Right to Left and note if the buzzing moves to the other channel.
> 
> If there is no change then switch the _input cables_ to the Krell amp and look for a change in channels.



Ok will do and thanks guys for the warnings. I checked this morning and there's no buzzing so will keep trying during the day and see if it comes back and will post when it does.


*Update* Still nothing and it's 4.52pm. I tuned on the D2v and listened to the radio for 5mins then off. Turned amp on only and no buzzing, so far so good.


----------



## AV_mike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23653938
> 
> 
> Stew,
> 
> Maybe you should be groveling with me.
> 
> TJG



Thanks for posting, I for one was interested in seeing the increased correction filter resolution available in the up-market Anthem products. And seeing that this thread has ARC tweaking guide as part of its title, all is fine by me.

Stands back and waits for rockets to land..................

Regards, Mike.


----------



## TJG55

Again, my apologies.

I could not remember how to post graphs (its been about 3 or 4 years). I was working with my tech who did the runs with me and then we decided to post for others since not many people would not have the chance to run this comparison. We bumbled around for a couple of hours between clients trying to get info posted. Sorry, we did the best we could. If anyone can give me the correct method I would certainly appreciate it.

Note my suggestion to separate and retitle the FAQ info on given subject. I know the steps have been stated many times but couldn't remember where.


As to sound differences, very difficult to be definitive... running A-5 with AVM 40, very little listening time (will likely reverse system back to MRX700 shortly.)

But, first impressions....slightly smoother sound overall, better bass definition and integration, better soundstage focus........just better overall.

How much better? Ear of the beholder, I guess.

TJG


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23656369
> 
> 
> Again, my apologies.
> 
> I could not remember how to post graphs (its been about 3 or 4 years). I was working with my tech who did the runs with me and then we decided to post for others since not many people would not have the chance to run this comparison. We bumbled around for a couple of hours between clients trying to get info posted. Sorry, we did the best we could. If anyone can give me the correct method I would certainly appreciate it.
> 
> Note my suggestion to separate and retitle the FAQ info on given subject. I know the steps have been stated many times but couldn't remember where.
> 
> 
> As to sound differences, very difficult to be definitive... running A-5 with AVM 40, very little listening time (will likely reverse system back to MRX700 shortly.)
> 
> But, first impressions....slightly smoother sound overall, better bass definition and integration, better soundstage focus........just better overall.
> 
> How much better? Ear of the beholder, I guess.
> 
> TJG



I will try to paste the instructions from the AVS faq for you.

The 'image' icon is the one at the top of the Reply page just to the left of the paperclip 'attachment' icon.

Their instructions say to click on 'browse' --- click on the 'upload image'. This will allow you to get into which ever library (photos/documents/etc) so you can then browse and double click on the file you want to upload.


Add Images To Posts And Articles


Upload and Embed an Image from Your Computer

1.

In a forum post or article, find the Image button which looks like this: b539f020_addimage-button.png - this button exists in both the rich text editor and the BB Code editor.


2.

Click the button to open the Image Tool.


3.

To upload and insert an image saved on your computer, click "Browse." This open is set as the default when you open the Image Tool.


4.

You will be able to browse your computer to find the image you would like to upload. Simply highlight your desired image and click "Open."


5.

After you select the image, you can adjust the file name as you like before hitting "OK."


6.

You can also add a Description for your image. This Description will appear on the Image Info page and it will appear in a lightbox popover when the image is accessed from a forum post.


7.

You will also see a check box to "Save a copy to my default album" - if you check this box, you will see the uploaded image in your default album. From there, you will be able to move it into another album or edit the title, description, etc.


8.

Click "OK" to upload the image and insert it into your post or article.





If you are using the rich text editor, once your image is inserted, you can change its size or position. Right click the image and select "Image Properties." Once in the "Image Properties" tool, you can edit the width, height, and the alignment of the image.


----------



## drhankz

Just In case no one is FOLLOWING AnthemAV on their Twitter Feed.


This was sent out this Morning - BIG Changes coming from Anthem









RT @supremesoundco: be prepared for some big changes coming down the pipe @Control4 @SnapAV @Sonos @MarantzAmerica @anthemav


----------



## UKRoman

Hi,


I've just recently bought a D2v and have been playing with ARC. A quick question; has anybody managed to get it working with a Mac. I have tried it with my MacBook Air running Windows 7 under VMware Fusion 4. All seemed to go well until it tried to upload the correction file to the D2v. At that point it failed with an error saying that the 'Offset was not found' or something similar.


I know that the manual says to use Bootcamp, but I thought I'd give Fusion 4 a try first as I understand that others may have got it working under Fusion 2. I have actually got the configuration files loaded into the D2v now using an old Dell laptop running XP, kept specifically for upgrading the firmware in HiFi components that use serial ports. Just goes to show you should never throw old computing gear away










Any suggestions welcome.


Many thanks


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UKRoman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23660591
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I've just recently bought a D2v and have been playing with ARC. A quick question; has anybody managed to get it working with a Mac. I have tried it with my MacBook Air running Windows 7 under VMware Fusion 4. All seemed to go well until it tried to upload the correction file to the D2v. At that point it failed with an error saying that the 'Offset was not found' or something similar.
> 
> 
> I know that the manual says to use Bootcamp, but I thought I'd give Fusion 4 a try first as I understand that others may have got it working under Fusion 2. I have actually got the configuration files loaded into the D2v now using an old Dell laptop running XP, kept specifically for upgrading the firmware in HiFi components that use serial ports. Just goes to show you should never throw old computing gear away
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions welcome.
> 
> 
> Many thanks


Yep I have a old Dell for that exact purpose as well.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I use Windows 7 running on Bootcamp. At one point -- and this was quite a while back -- it was discovered that the Keyspan USB serial adapter didn't work well with the version of VMWare then available. A Belkin adapter worked better. If you search this thread for Belkin you may find the details. I've no idea if that still holds true.


Whichever adapter you are using -- and the Keyspan USA-19HS has proved far and away the most reliable for most people -- be sure to check on the adapter's web site to get the most up to date driver for you particular flavor of Windows.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23652579
> 
> 
> SimonNo10
> 
> 
> If and when the buzzing reoccurs simply switch the _output wires_ on the Krell amp. Left to Right and Right to Left and note if the buzzing moves to the other channel.
> 
> If there is no change then switch the _input cables_ to the Krell amp and look for a change in channels.



After almost 2 days the buzzing returned. I did as you suggested and removed the Right Front speaker cables and swapped them with the Front Left and the buzzing didn't transfer. I then removed the Right Front XLR and swapped with the Front Left XLR and the buzzing wasn't there. Put things back to normal and the buzzing comes out of the Front Right Speaker. So with this now tested am I to believe the Front Right XLR/channel input stage is defective?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ One other possibility is that you have faulty/intermittent interconnect cables on the failing side -- not the signal, just the shielding -- i.e., the cable shield is not making good contact end to end, but when you move the cables it makes contact. This could also explain why it takes time for the problem to return, as the cable slowly sags under its weight.


Try swapping in the cables from the good side, and also try shifting the cables on the bad side about a bit to see if you can detect something like that.


The odds are not great, but replacing cables is cheaper, so definitely worth a try. If the cables from the good side still exhibit the problem when used on the bad side, then yeah, it sounds like faulty electronics.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Guys, I'll be having my dealer install the 3D upgrade card for my D2V next week, and wondering a couple things about my setup as I prepare for the surgery:


1. How long did it take you to have your D2V upgraded? Is it a 10 minute operation or are we talking several hours of work to simply add the 3D upgrade? [Incidentally, I do already have 3.09 already installed on my D2V].


2. I have the Oppo 95 BluRay player, and for the last 2 years, I've had it cabled in a "workaround" fashion, in order to handle 3D movie viewing - essentially, all this time, I've been using HDMI 1 port directly to my 3D capable TV, and HDMI 2 is cabled to the D2V for ONLY the audio side of things. I think I had to configure some different settings in the Oppo to make all of this play nice, but it's been working great for 2 years, so I haven't touched it. Now of course, this will all be changing. Following the 3D upgrade card being installed in my D2V, I assume I would just get rid of 1 of my 2 HDMI outputs from the Oppo, correct? I would just send HDMI 1 cable out directly to the D2V, and I guess not use HDMI 2 at all. Or is there still some advantage to separating HDMI 1 for video only and HDMI 2 for audio siginals only, both going to the D2V of course now?


Set me straight if you could, and any other hints of feedback are appreciated on this.


-Brian


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23662099
> 
> 
> After almost 2 days the buzzing returned. I did as you suggested and removed the Right Front speaker cables and swapped them with the Front Left and the buzzing didn't transfer. I then removed the Right Front XLR and swapped with the Front Left XLR and the buzzing wasn't there. Put things back to normal and the buzzing comes out of the Front Right Speaker. So with this now tested am I to believe the Front Right XLR/channel input stage is defective?



Try what Bob has suggested first.


Then


I need a bit of clarity on this statement. " _I then removed the Right Front XLR and swapped with the Front Left XLR and the buzzing wasn't there. Put things back to normal and the buzzing comes out of the Front Right Speaker._ "


When you did the swap from the Anthem to the amp input, Front Left XLR input to Right Front XLR input, did you also plug the Left Front XLR into the amps Right Front input ?

If not do it and see if the buzz now comes from the left front.


if the buzz continues next question.


Is this happening from every source ? If you did not check, switch inputs with the Anthem source selection and see if the buzz stops or starts.

Or is it only on one source or more ?

If you find it is one source, try the multimeter test I described earlier in a past post

From the source causing the buzz to the Anthem, test for voltage from a bare metal spot on the troubling source to the Anthem ground screw.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23662736
> 
> 
> Guys, I'll be having my dealer install the 3D upgrade card for my D2V next week, and wondering a couple things about my setup as I prepare for the surgery:
> 
> 
> 1. How long did it take you to have your D2V upgraded? Is it a 10 minute operation or are we talking several hours of work to simply add the 3D upgrade? [Incidentally, I do already have 3.09 already installed on my D2V].
> 
> 
> 2. I have the Oppo 95 BluRay player, and for the last 2 years, I've had it cabled in a "workaround" fashion, in order to handle 3D movie viewing - essentially, all this time, I've been using HDMI 1 port directly to my 3D capable TV, and HDMI 2 is cabled to the D2V for ONLY the audio side of things. I think I had to configure some different settings in the Oppo to make all of this play nice, but it's been working great for 2 years, so I haven't touched it. Now of course, this will all be changing. Following the 3D upgrade card being installed in my D2V, I assume I would just get rid of 1 of my 2 HDMI outputs from the Oppo, correct? I would just send HDMI 1 cable out directly to the D2V, and I guess not use HDMI 2 at all. Or is there still some advantage to separating HDMI 1 for video only and HDMI 2 for audio siginals only, both going to the D2V of course now?
> 
> 
> Set me straight if you could, and any other hints of feedback are appreciated on this.
> 
> 
> -Brian



About the most complicated aspect of the install is removing and replacing all the screws. What gets swapped out is the daughter board electronics that feeds the upper row of HDMI inputs and outputs. That's right at the top of the chassis. Precautions have to be taken against static electricity to make sure you don't zap the exposed electronics.


However, after the new hardware is put in and the chassis buttoned up again, you have to RE-install V3.09 (or later) firmware to initialize the new hardware. And of course that takes a little time.


After it's all done, yes you can use just HDMI 1 out of the OPPO 95. Note that you'll likely want to set up a separate Source Definition in the D2v for when you want to view the OPPO in "THROUGH" mode -- necessary whenever you want to do 3D passthrough.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23662874
> 
> 
> Try what Bob has suggested first.
> 
> 
> Then
> 
> 
> I need a bit of clarity on this statement. " _I then removed the Right Front XLR and swapped with the Front Left XLR and the buzzing wasn't there. Put things back to normal and the buzzing comes out of the Front Right Speaker._ "
> 
> 
> When you did the swap from the Anthem to the amp input, Front Left XLR input to Right Front XLR input, did you also plug the Left Front XLR into the amps Right Front input ?
> 
> If not do it and see if the buzz now comes from the left front.
> 
> 
> if the buzz continues next question.
> 
> 
> Is this happening from every source ? If you did not check, switch inputs with the Anthem source selection and see if the buzz stops or starts.
> 
> Or is it only on one source or more ?
> 
> If you find it is one source, try the multimeter test I described earlier in a past post
> 
> From the source causing the buzz to the Anthem, test for voltage from a bare metal spot on the troubling source to the Anthem ground screw.



Hey. I didn't touch the XLR's at all on the back of the Anthem just on the back of the Krell amp. Switching sources doesn't affect the buzzing. I gave back the Multimeter to my mate but I can ask to borrow it again.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41400#post_23662153
> 
> 
> ^ One other possibility is that you have faulty/intermittent interconnect cables on the failing side -- not the signal, just the shielding -- i.e., the cable shield is not making good contact end to end, but when you move the cables it makes contact. This could also explain why it takes time for the problem to return, as the cable slowly sags under its weight.
> 
> 
> Try swapping in the cables from the good side, and also try shifting the cables on the bad side about a bit to see if you can detect something like that.
> 
> 
> The odds are not great, but replacing cables is cheaper, so definitely worth a try. If the cables from the good side still exhibit the problem when used on the bad side, then yeah, it sounds like faulty electronics.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. The cables are pretty much brand new and not cheap ones also I don't know which is the good side and the bad side so unclear what you mean by this? Do you mean swapping the speaker cable from another speaker like the front left? Sorry if I seem to be going in circles but I am trying to work out what others are trying to convey to me and how to eliminate possible causes. Once again thanks for your suggestions as it is proving difficult and frustrating.


*Update* System has been turned off at the wall points for most of the day. I turned just the amp and Anthem for some radio then put on the Oppo for some cd's. After about 10mins of listening to a cd the buzzing came back, starting light then went loud. So put amp in standby as well as the Anthem and did the XLR swap (Left and Right inputs) on both the amp and the Anthem and the buzzing remained in the right speaker. Also I pulled out the Front Right speaker cable from the amp and put in the Front Left Speaker cable into the Right Front speaker terminals and the buzzing appeared in the Front Left speaker. I did this with the Center speaker cable and the buzzing appeared in that speaker as well so it's not the cables but that channel which I now believe is faulty, going from this test and this was with the XLR's back into their proper inputs on both units. I think the earth in the XLR input on the Krell is faulty which is why the buzzing stopped when I touched the ground wire to the speaker banana plug in the Krell for the Front Right speaker.


What do you think guys?


----------



## gonzalc3

Bob,


Just a quick question...when you set in ARC the speakers to full range, does it mean that the lfe channel is also being redirected to that speaker? Or is the case that the crossover setup by arc for that speaker is being bypass and all the frequency range is send to that speaker?


Thanks,


Christian


----------



## MACCA350

Hey Simon, sounds like the Krell is the culprit.........likely something in that one channels module. I'd say unlikely to be a grounding issue, unless its a grounding issue internally of the Krell on that one channel.


You already completely swapped the left and right XLR cables and is stayed with the Krell channel so it's not the XLR cable.


Cheers


----------



## thestewman

Exciting find


This is probably the most in depth and comprehensive review of the Anthem ARC system I have ever read.

The reviewer gives you some insights into how and why ARC does what it does and apparently Anthem gave him system information that no one else has been able to have.


I urge you to read it in its entirety.


From Secrets of Home Theater and High Fidelity



Audio Calibration

Anthem Room Correction (ARC) System - Part 1


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41370#post_23642743
> 
> 
> I got my new mic from Anthem the Thursday. On Wednesday I decided to try to get rid the 40hz dip in my subs. Using 'quick measure' I did some some tweaking with positioning the subs and setting phase in the subs. I got the best QM reading by setting one sub's phase to 150* and leaving the other at 0*. The subs are both on the front wall facing into the room away from the corners, and fairly equidistant from the MLP. I wouldn't have thought changing the phase, especially to 150*, would make a positive difference, bit it seemed to. Any thoughts on this from you guys would be appreciated.
> 
> I then decided to do a new ARC run with the old mic so that I could compare it to the ARC run I did on Thursday after I got my new mic.
> 
> The first 3 images are the music charts and targets for the run with the old mic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These next 2 pictures are the music chart and targets using the new mic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please notice a couple things.
> 
> First the huge dip at 11khz with the old mic is gone!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There seems to be a bigger dip at 1-2khz with the new mic. I don't know why, unless its really there, and the old mic wasn't picking it up. ARC seems to be taking care of it.
> 
> 
> Next, please notice the difference in the room gain for movie and music in the run with the new mic. The uploaded speaker levels were also different for movie sub (-0.5) and music sub (-1.5) in the Anthem setup menu.
> 
> In the run with the old mic I used Bob's method of making a 'same as movie' run and changing the speaker configuration by 'n'-ing out the unused speakers for music. The room gain is the same in with Bob's method, and the uploaded speaker levels were the same for movie and music subs.
> 
> 
> Now ,since I made two separate runs for the ARC run with the new mic --one for a 5.1/movie setup and a 2.1/music setup-- I can't guarantee that I positioned in exactly the same spots for the 5 different mic positions in each run, but I did my best to make them as close to the same positions as humanly possible.
> 
> The lower room gain for music and the reduced speaker level uploaded for the music sub are consistent with the many ARC runs I have made using separate movie/music runs. The room gain is always lower, usually 0.5db to 1.0db less. The music speaker level for the sub is consistently lower also, usually around 1.0db less.
> 
> 
> In all the ARC runs I have done over the years (I'd guess at least 30 runs) I have always had these same findings--lower room gain and sub speaker level for music. I'm pretty sure if it were due to mic positioning that some time the movie/music room gain and sub speaker levels would have been reversed, with the music settings being higher than the movie's. But this has never happened.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had these findings when doing separate ARC runs for movie and music ?? Would anyone who uses different speaker setups for movies and music be willing to do separate movie/music runs the next time you run ARC and post your findings. It might not prove that there are different algorithms for movie and music in ARC, but there has to be some reason for the differences when doing separate runs.
> 
> 
> Tom




I have been concerned about an almost 20db dip beginning at 5khz for a while (which I have had since I got a D2v, but which did not exist with my old D2). I spoke to Piero a while back, who told my that the dip was not a bad mic. After seeing your results, I think a new mic is in my future.


----------



## thestewman

Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post


I got my new mic from Anthem the Thursday. On Wednesday I decided to try to get rid the 40hz dip in my subs. Using 'quick measure' I did some some tweaking with positioning the subs and setting phase in the subs. I got the best QM reading by setting one sub's phase to 150* and leaving the other at 0*. The subs are both on the front wall facing into the room away from the corners, and fairly equidistant from the MLP. I wouldn't have thought changing the phase, especially to 150*, would make a positive difference, bit it seemed to. Any thoughts on this from you guys would be appreciated.

I then decided to do a new ARC run with the old mic so that I could compare it to the ARC run I did on Thursday after I got my new mic.

The first 3 images are the music charts and targets for the run with the old mic.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23664133
> 
> 
> I have been concerned about an almost 20db dip beginning at 5khz for a while (which I have had since I got a D2v, but which did not exist with my old D2). I spoke to Piero a while back, who told my that the dip was not a bad mic. After seeing your results, I think a new mic is in my future.



Tom


Did Anthem supply new microphone calibration software with the new microphone ?


I wonder if that explains and accounts for the dramatic difference in the high frequency response curve


----------



## TJG55

Stew,

Thanks for the in-depth info on ARC. It was most enlightening. Better than what I've gotten from Anthem, as a dealer.

TJG


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23664347
> 
> 
> Did Anthem supply new microphone calibration software with the new microphone ?
> 
> 
> I wonder if that explains and accounts for the dramatic difference in the high frequency response curve



stew,


Yes the new mic came with its own calibration file.Each mic has its own calibration file on file at Anthem. If you ever lose the disc that came with your ARC kit Anthem can send you the mic calibration file.

Your question brings up another question (which, in fact, I have considered before): Is the microphone defective or was it not calibrated correctly?? Either would explain the difference in the charts. And, again, there was no other differences except the mic's and their matching calibration files. All the same equipment and speakers in the same room, with all equipment, speakers and furniture in the same exact position. Same laptop and same ARC download. The only possible difference could be the position of the 5 mic positions, but I tried to the best of my ability to match them as close as humanly possible. I even left the mic stand the same from one day to the next so as not to change the height.


So, did I have a bad mic with a good calibration file, OR a good mic with a bad calibration file. I guess I'll never know, unless someone from Anthem wants my old mic and calibration file to test.


Tom.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23664133
> 
> 
> I have been concerned about an almost 20db dip beginning at 5khz for a while (which I have had since I got a D2v, but which did not exist with my old D2). I spoke to Piero a while back, who told my that the dip was not a bad mic. After seeing your results, I think a new mic is in my future.



ASW,

Does your dealer have a D2v on display?? If so would he be willing to let you use your mic to run ARC on his unit?? If you can compare ARC runs with the same equipment, etc., and get drastically different charts, then you may have a bad mic (or calibration file).


Did you sell your D2 and ARC kit?? If you still have the old D2 mic and calibration file you can use that to compare at your home.


Anthem tech did finally admit to me that they did have some bad mics, and there have been a couple posters here who got Anthem to replace mics. If you bought your D2v thru a dealer Anthem should replace your mic free of charge. I got my D2v used (not thru a dealer) and Anthem did not have to honor the warrantee, even thought he ARC kit came unused. They didn't have to stand behind their product, and they didn't. A new mic cost me $142 which seems reasonable.


On the other hand, a few years back I had an amp on an SVS sub go bad. It was 2 months out of warrantee. I called SVS to order a replacement amp and they shipped me a new amp no questions asked, free of charge. When I asked the person's name, so I could contact SVS to give him an 'atta boy!', he told me not to bother. Seems he was the co-owner/president. Since then I have bought 2 new subs, both SVS. What was the ultimate cost of a new amp and shipping to SVS?? I don't know, but it sure bought them my loyalty and future business. Other company's should take note. Just saying.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23664610
> 
> 
> stew,
> 
> 
> Yes the new mic came with its own calibration file.Each mic has its own calibration file on file at Anthem. If you ever lose the disc that came with your ARC kit Anthem can send you the mic calibration file.
> 
> Your question brings up another question (which, in fact, I have considered before): Is the microphone defective or was it not calibrated correctly?? Either would explain the difference in the charts. And, again, there was no other differences except the mic's and their matching calibration files. All the same equipment and speakers in the same room, with all equipment, speakers and furniture in the same exact position. Same laptop and same ARC download. The only possible difference could be the position of the 5 mic positions, but I tried to the best of my ability to match them as close as humanly possible. I even left the mic stand the same from one day to the next so as not to change the height.
> 
> 
> So, did I have a bad mic with a good calibration file, OR a good mic with a bad calibration file. I guess I'll never know, unless someone from Anthem wants my old mic and calibration file to test.
> 
> 
> Tom.



My mic's high end graph looks like your old one. And most we see posted here do also. But, compare your new mic with the graphs from the article I posted above.

Anthem Room Correction (ARC) System - Part 1 .



His graphs are like your new mic.


Stew


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23664084
> 
> 
> Exciting find
> 
> 
> This is probably the most in depth and comprehensive review of the Anthem ARC system I have ever read.
> 
> The reviewer gives you some insights into how and why ARC does what it does and apparently Anthem gave him system information that no one else has been able to have.
> 
> 
> I urge you to read it in its entirety.
> 
> 
> From Secrets of Home Theater and High Fidelity
> 
> 
> 
> Audio Calibration
> 
> Anthem Room Correction (ARC) System - Part 1



Part 2 (adding in a Subwoofer) is available here:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/audio-calibration/audio-calibration-reviews/anthem-room-correction-arc-including-a-subwoofer.html 


--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23664703
> 
> 
> ASW,
> 
> Does your dealer have a D2v on display?? If so would he be willing to let you use your mic to run ARC on his unit?? If you can compare ARC runs with the same equipment, etc., and get drastically different charts, then you may have a bad mic (or calibration file).
> 
> 
> Did you sell your D2 and ARC kit?? If you still have the old D2 mic and calibration file you can use that to compare at your home.
> 
> 
> Anthem tech did finally admit to me that they did have some bad mics, and there have been a couple posters here who got Anthem to replace mics. If you bought your D2v thru a dealer Anthem should replace your mic free of charge. I got my D2v used (not thru a dealer) and Anthem did not have to honor the warrantee, even thought he ARC kit came unused. They didn't have to stand behind their product, and they didn't. A new mic cost me $142 which seems reasonable.
> 
> 
> On the other hand, a few years back I had an amp on an SVS sub go bad. It was 2 months out of warrantee. I called SVS to order a replacement amp and they shipped me a new amp no questions asked, free of charge. When I asked the person's name, so I could contact SVS to give him an 'atta boy!', he told me not to bother. Seems he was the co-owner/president. Since then I have bought 2 new subs, both SVS. What was the ultimate cost of a new amp and shipping to SVS?? I don't know, but it sure bought them my loyalty and future business. Other company's should take note. Just saying.
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom:


I purchased my D2v directly from Anthem as an upgrade from my D2 (I purchased my D2 from 6th Avenue Electronics, which is long gone). Unfortunately, I had to send Anthem my ARC mic when I upgraded my D2. I sent Piero an email earlier today to start a further discussion about the mic situation. Given that I have a 20db dip at the same level with 7 different speakers (2 of which are in-wall and 2 of which are in ceiling), and that the dip did not exist at all with my D2, I would be pretty surprised if it is not a mic issue (although the question of whether it is a bad mic or bad calibration is interesting).


I agree that while Anthem usually is really good, every once in a while you wonder what they are thinking when they do things like giving people problems about replacing questionable usb mics for their $8k processors.


Alan


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23663701
> 
> 
> Hey Simon, sounds like the Krell is the culprit.........likely something in that one channels module. I'd say unlikely to be a grounding issue, unless its a grounding issue internally of the Krell on that one channel.
> 
> 
> You already completely swapped the left and right XLR cables and is stayed with the Krell channel so it's not the XLR cable.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Yes I believe your right about the grounding so I've sent Krell a support request online so will wait for their reply. I've had a dead rear channel (RCA) on this amp in the past which they repaired free of charge as it was a year after the warranty but I will have to pay for this repair, I purchased it in 2004 and only comes with a 5 year warranty. Between this and my Anthem troubles I'm surprised I continue with this hobby but hopefully light at the end of the tunnel with the HP+ amps for the Submersives, and probably good timing with this amp issue with not having subs at the moment for 2-3 weeks. Got to remain positive







.


Thanks again for all the assist guys, one of the reasons this forum is one of the best.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23664914
> 
> 
> Part 2 (adding in a Subwoofer) is available here:
> 
> http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/audio-calibration/audio-calibration-reviews/anthem-room-correction-arc-including-a-subwoofer.html
> 
> 
> --Bob



What a great review of ARC


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes, it's nice to see such an in-depth verification of what our ears have already been telling us!









--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23664839
> 
> 
> My mic's high end graph looks like your old one. And most we see posted here do also. But, compare your new mic with the graphs from the article I posted above.
> 
> Anthem Room Correction (ARC) System - Part 1 .
> 
> 
> 
> His graphs are like your new mic.
> 
> 
> Stew



But what does it all mean. New batch of mics? New calibration system?


I didn't read the article yet, just looked at the graphs and you are right, they do look like mine at the top end. His graphs also seemed to be centered around 65db. I don't know if that's because he didn't set the LF and sub to 75db, or if its an anomaly with win8. Again I didn't read the article yet, but plan to soon. Bronco's play tonight







and its an addiction I need to feed.


It will be interesting to see ASW's new graphs when he gets a new mic . Good luck with that ASW. Keep us updated, please.


Tom


----------



## thestewman

^


Tom

Since your with in driving distance and close to Denver would be nice to meet you at the Rocky Mountain Audio Fest.. I'll be there from between Oct 11 to Oct 13.


Stew


----------



## Roger Dressler

Just seems a little odd that ARC, with its fixation on "text book" LR 4th-order crossover slopes, dismisses the textbook when it comes to treating the LFE channel. As a result, users are confined to setting the crossovers ≥ 80 Hz unless they don't mind cutting into the LFE signal even more so. I myself happen to like rolling off the LFE at 80 Hz, but that should be the user's choice independent of the choice of crossover settings. Those big Legacy Focus SEs with dual 12s as used at Kris Deering's GTG seem willing and able to delve deeper than 80 Hz.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23665111
> 
> 
> But what does it all mean. New batch of mics? New calibration system?
> 
> 
> I didn't read the article yet, just looked at the graphs and you are right, they do look like mine at the top end. His graphs also seemed to be centered around 65db. I don't know if that's because he didn't set the LF and sub to 75db, or if its an anomaly with win8. Again I didn't read the article yet, but plan to soon. Bronco's play tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and its an addiction I need to feed.
> 
> 
> It will be interesting to see ASW's new graphs when he gets a new mic . Good luck with that ASW. Keep us updated, please.
> 
> 
> Tom



Will do. When I get a chance, I will upload the graphs from my D2 next to those from my D2v. They are pretty night and day.


Thanks.


Alan


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23665211
> 
> 
> Just seems a little odd that ARC, with its fixation on "text book" LR 4th-order crossover slopes, dismisses the textbook when it comes to treating the LFE channel. As a result, users are confined to setting the crossovers ≥ 80 Hz unless they don't mind cutting into the LFE signal even more so. I myself happen to like rolling off the LFE at 80 Hz, but that should be the user's choice independent of the choice of crossover settings. Those big Legacy Focus SEs with dual 12s as used at Kris Deering's GTG seem willing and able to delve deeper than 80 Hz.



My Genesis 5.3s with their Servo controlled woofers and 400 watt amps can go to 16 Hz.

In fact if your familiar with them they have their own LFE inputs and can act as sub woofers


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23665676
> 
> 
> My Genesis 5.3s with their Servo controlled woofers and 400 watt amps can go to 16 Hz.
> 
> In fact if your familiar with them they have their own LFE inputs and can act as sub woofers


So that means you'd not be affected by this quirk of ARC, as you can just set the mains to full range and set the sub filter exactly where you'd like LFE to rolloff. It's a great way to avoid the issue, albeit expensive. It would be better for everyone else if Anthem would just separate the LFE bandwidth from the rest of the bass management.


----------



## tngiloy

I just read the Secrets articles and (although some of it was over my head) I think I understood the author to suggest that if the sub x-over ARC chose was much below 80hz that you should set "BYPASS LFE X-OVER" to ''yes'' for 'movie' configuration in the setup menu or some of the LFE information would be lost. I think he said that LFE info in the .1 channel often went to 200 hz, and since my sub x-over is set to 60hz and my sub cut-off is 110hz should I set it to 'yes' ??


This setting has always confused me. What is the consensus here ??


Tom


----------



## AVfile

^ that setting is only used when ARC is off.

Let's not jump to any conclusions based on this review. The last big in-depth review that was posted here got it wrong too.


Edit: this is the SAME review that was linked here several months ago. I think he was mistaken about how the LFE is handled. In particular the user manual states (and Nick confirmed) the BYPASS LFE FILTER setting is only used when ARC is off and has no effect when ARC is on.


----------



## obie_fl

Ripped from one of Bob's many excellent posts.


> Quote:
> Then download a fresh copy of ARC V3.0.2 from the Anthem web site and install that. If you originally installed ARC from your ARC install CD, that CD may have an older version on it. Depending on HOW old that CD is, you may also need to manually copy the two files from it which are your ARC license and your individual ARC mic calibration data file. These are on the CD where the Setup.EXE program (the installer itself) is located. They have names made up of numbers -- the serial number of your AVM 50v and the serial number of your ARC mic. Download and Unzip the ARC V3.02 install kit from the Anthem site. Go into the resulting folder a couple levels and find the Setup.EXE program. Now insert your original ARC install CD. If its installer starts up automatically, just quit out of it. Now go into the CD and find the Setup.EXE program on it, and thus the two files with the ARC license and ARC calibration data -- the two files with names made up of numbers. Copy those two files from the CD to the place in the downloaded version where you found the Setup.EXE program. Now eject the install CD; you are done with it. Finally run the Setup.EXE from the downloaded version. It will install ARC V3.0.2 and copy the two files to the right place at the same time.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

URC remote integration question - guys, I just got a new MX-5000 and an MRX-1 from URC and want to start controlling all my devices in a more streamlined, "clean" way. Many of my components have 3.5mm IR Inputs on the rear panel for directly connecting to a controller like the MRX-1. Case in point, my Oppo 95. The question is how best to do this with the D2V? There are some IR "Receivers" on the rear of the D2V, but they are in that large green block thing, not a normal 3.5mm input like the Oppo. I do know that the D2V allows you to set IR Inputs in the menu, but first I need to conquer the physical cabling issue. I'm sure the D2V has a workable method here, I'm just struggling to figure out what that would be. I know it also has IR "Emitters", and those are 3.5mm indeed, but they aren't the right solution, as they are for blasting IR outbound, not for receiving IR commands inbound, correct??


Anybody have a URC MRX-1 or the older MSC-400 and using direct IR connections to the D2V (ie, NOT with a simple IR blaster stuck to the front of the phsyical D2V unit)? I just need to know what I do with this large green block attached to the D2V in regards to a URC receiver.


Thanks for the help,

-Brian


----------



## stanger89

My MRF-350 came with a cable with a 3.5mm on one end and bare wires on the other, I would think that "should" work, but I haven't dug into it to try it on my 50V (I was lazy and just stuck a blaster to the front).


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23670915
> 
> 
> URC remote integration question - guys, I just got a new MX-5000 and an MRX-1 from URC and want to start controlling all my devices in a more streamlined, "clean" way. Many of my components have 3.5mm IR Inputs on the rear panel for directly connecting to a controller like the MRX-1. Case in point, my Oppo 95. The question is how best to do this with the D2V? There are some IR "Receivers" on the rear of the D2V, but they are in that large green block thing, not a normal 3.5mm input like the Oppo. I do know that the D2V allows you to set IR Inputs in the menu, but first I need to conquer the physical cabling issue. I'm sure the D2V has a workable method here, I'm just struggling to figure out what that would be. I know it also has IR "Emitters", and those are 3.5mm indeed, but they aren't the right solution, as they are for blasting IR outbound, not for receiving IR commands inbound, correct??
> 
> 
> Anybody have a URC MRX-1 or the older MSC-400 and using direct IR connections to the D2V (ie, NOT with a simple IR blaster stuck to the front of the phsyical D2V unit)? I just need to know what I do with this large green block attached to the D2V in regards to a URC receiver.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help,
> 
> -Brian




Why don't you use RS232 for your OPPO and D2.v It works great, I use a MSC-400 with NO problems. With IR there are issues that can occur. RS232 is more Bullet proof.


----------



## joealbracht

To use the green plug (IR receiver) on the back of the D2v see this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38730#post_22531992


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23670915
> 
> 
> URC remote integration question - guys, I just got a new MX-5000 and an MRX-1 from URC and want to start controlling all my devices in a more streamlined, "clean" way. Many of my components have 3.5mm IR Inputs on the rear panel for directly connecting to a controller like the MRX-1. Case in point, my Oppo 95. The question is how best to do this with the D2V? There are some IR "Receivers" on the rear of the D2V, but they are in that large green block thing, not a normal 3.5mm input like the Oppo. I do know that the D2V allows you to set IR Inputs in the menu, but first I need to conquer the physical cabling issue. I'm sure the D2V has a workable method here, I'm just struggling to figure out what that would be. I know it also has IR "Emitters", and those are 3.5mm indeed, but they aren't the right solution, as they are for blasting IR outbound, not for receiving IR commands inbound, correct??
> 
> 
> Anybody have a URC MRX-1 or the older MSC-400 and using direct IR connections to the D2V (ie, NOT with a simple IR blaster stuck to the front of the phsyical D2V unit)? I just need to know what I do with this large green block attached to the D2V in regards to a URC receiver.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help,
> 
> -Brian




1-take out green block on the back of the Anthem--it pulls out, you might have to wiggle a little but it is not screwed in.

2- if you don't have the cable with the bare wires already, take one of the other cables and cut off the blaster end. Then separate and strip the 2 wires.

3- there are 4 little screw holes on the green block. On one end is the ground. on the other end is IR#1. Attach one of the bare wires to the ground, the other to the #1.

4- Go into the setup menu to 11E--SET IR INPUTS. Follow the instructions to turn off the FRONT IR and turn on REAR IR #1.

5-test the remote.

6- If it doesn't work switch the cables in the little green box and try again. You have 1 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time. If you did get it right the first time treat your self to a PowerBall ticket.










Remember that once you turn off the FRONT IR in the menu you may need to use the front panel buttons to navigate the setup menu.



Tom


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23671079
> 
> 
> Why don't you use RS232 for your OPPO and D2.v It works great, I use a MSC-400 with NO problems. With IR there are issues that can occur. RS232 is more Bullet proof.



I can't use RS-232 for either one, as the MRX-1 only gives you 2 RS-232 ports, and they will be used by A) Lutron RadioRA2 lighting repeater and B) An application that I cannot discuss without violating an NDA 


That leaves RF-to-IR (using RFX-250 tied to the MRX-1) and IP Control for everything else. There shouldn't be any problems with IR using Rear dedicated ports (as opposed to front ports that may or may not get the old-fashioned 'blaster' signal that I've been using for 8 years with limited success in my sun-filled room).


-Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23671487
> 
> 
> 1-take out green block on the back of the Anthem--it pulls out, you might have to wiggle a little but it is not screwed in.
> 
> 2- if you don't have the cable with the bare wires already, take one of the other cables and cut off the blaster end. Then separate and strip the 2 wires.
> 
> 3- there are 4 little screw holes on the green block. On one end is the ground. on the other end is IR#1. Attach one of the bare wires to the ground, the other to the #1.
> 
> 4- Go into the setup menu to 11E--SET IR INPUTS. Follow the instructions to turn off the FRONT IR and turn on REAR IR #1.
> 
> 5-test the remote.
> 
> 6- If it doesn't work switch the cables in the little green box and try again. You have 1 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time. If you did get it right the first time treat your self to a PowerBall ticket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that once you turn off the FRONT IR in the menu you may need to use the front panel buttons to navigate the setup menu.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom



Thanks a ton Tom!!


I read your old post on this topic as well, should be a snap. Just glad to know that I don't need to go out and buy yet another cable! There's been way too much of that lately 


Cheers,

-B


----------



## bigdaddy999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/40800#post_23382748
> 
> 
> Hi. I have a D2 that I've been struggling with some HDMI-related issues. It's hooked up to a Verizon DVR (newer version) and connected using Monoprice Redmere cables. Verizon output is supposed to be 1920/1080i/60. There's something odd happening on power-up as described below. Maybe someone can shed some light here.
> 
> 
> In the first image, you can see the video is not centered or full screen. The D2's video output is smaller than the full TV screen, and offset to the lower right corner (black bars above and on left side). Plus, the video signal input is an odd combination which doesn't seem possible from the Verizon box? The D2 thinks it's seeing:
> 
> 2048/1115i/60, as reported on the screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Closer shot of the D2 information screen
> 
> 
> 
> Switching sources or going into setup pops it back to the right size image (and settings). There's no options to modify output of the cable box. Other sources thru the D2 work fine and come out looking normal. Once the image is full size, it doesn't shift sizes.
> 
> 
> Any idea what's happening here?
> 
> 
> Thanks



So months later, I think we have found the culprit for all of this odd behavior (see other note refereneced above). The problem is NOT the Anthem. It's the Sony XBR9. Anthem service suspected that this may be the case, and I swapped out another Sony TV (non-XBR) and had the same problem. however, on a Samsung F6400 the Anthem works perfectly. Ditto on an HDMI computer monitor (Acer). So there is something that is fishy about the HDMI handshake between the Anthem D2 and the Sony TV's.......


So my fix is to live with the XBR9 and everytime I power it up, change the source once booted, let it settle, and change it back to the Verizon FIOS box. Then it's perfect. If I get more time to waste on this, I'll investigate the FIOS box more (or try swapping in a non-DVR STB).....


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This is almost certainly a handshake error, possibly related to the handshake taking place before all the devices have fully powered up. Try powering up the display first, then wait, then the Anthem, then wait, then select the FIOS input.


A long shot is that your display may work better if you switch to the alternate HDMI Sync choice in the D2's Video Output Configuration. You may lose video if that doesn't help, if so, switch back using the Front Panel to view/change the setting.

--Bob


----------



## DaveBoswell

I have the same problem with loud "screeching" noise using the xbox via HDMI to my 50v that was always solved by cycling to another input and returning - I did some troubleshooting last night and I think I solved the problem by turning Off the EDID search in the xbox video settings. Will post again if this solution turns out to not have worked, but preliminary testing seems to indicate that it solved the problem which has pleased my 7 year old son greatly as the noise was extremely annoying.


In general, as others have posted here many times, it appears that the best way to setup inputs on bopth sides of the connections is to turn off all "auto" discovery mechanisms and set the explicit settings that you want. Dreaming of the day that the HDMI spec gets thrown out and something that actually works is developed.


Dave


----------



## bigdaddy999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23673448
> 
> 
> This is almost certainly a handshake error, possibly related to the handshake taking place before all the devices have fully powered up. Try powering up the display first, then wait, then the Anthem, then wait, then select the FIOS input.
> 
> 
> A long shot is that your display may work better if you switch to the alternate HDMI Sync choice in the D2's Video Output Configuration. You may lose video if that doesn't help, if so, switch back using the Front Panel to view/change the setting.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob. Thanks again for making suggestions on how to get this working properly.


Neither of these make a difference, and I tried both (and tried the power-up sequencing a lot of different ways, repeatedly).


The ONLY thing that forces the image to the correct resolution and size is to switch the source input on the D2 after everything is up and running. And by switch the inputs, I mean you must wait for the image to settle down, then switch back to the cable box source. I am using the "TV" source, which unless the TV is outputting something from the internet (since cable input is via the D2) produces a very nice pattern of vertical blue bars across the screen. Once I see that, I switch back to the cable box running through the D2 and it ALWAYS fills the screen at the desired resolution.


No amount of HDMI cable swapping affects this. Once in maybe 20 power cycles the image comes up correctly from a cold start.


But as I mentioned above, changing out the Sony brand smart TV (XBR or a newer, lesser model of Sony TV, both of which behave exactly the same way), seems to be the only fix. So I am now thinking that Anthem is right that there's something different with the way Sony has done their HDMI since the Anthem D2 struggles with it so much. I was also struck by the speed at which the Anthem put the correct image up on the Samsung f6400 I had in the house for a week or two. The D2/Sammy combo worked perfectly.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaveBoswell*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23677029
> 
> 
> I have the same problem with loud "screeching" noise using the xbox via HDMI to my 50v that was always solved by cycling to another input and returning - I did some troubleshooting last night and I think I solved the problem by turning Off the EDID search in the xbox video settings. Will post again if this solution turns out to not have worked, but preliminary testing seems to indicate that it solved the problem which has pleased my 7 year old son greatly as the noise was extremely annoying.
> 
> 
> In general, as others have posted here many times, it appears that the best way to setup inputs on bopth sides of the connections is to turn off all "auto" discovery mechanisms and set the explicit settings that you want. Dreaming of the day that the HDMI spec gets thrown out and something that actually works is developed.
> 
> 
> Dave





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23677880
> 
> 
> Hi Bob. Thanks again for making suggestions on how to get this working properly.
> 
> 
> Neither of these make a difference, and I tried both (and tried the power-up sequencing a lot of different ways, repeatedly).
> 
> 
> The ONLY thing that forces the image to the correct resolution and size is to switch the source input on the D2 after everything is up and running. And by switch the inputs, I mean you must wait for the image to settle down, then switch back to the cable box source. I am using the "TV" source, which unless the TV is outputting something from the internet (since cable input is via the D2) produces a very nice pattern of vertical blue bars across the screen. Once I see that, I switch back to the cable box running through the D2 and it ALWAYS fills the screen at the desired resolution.
> 
> 
> No amount of HDMI cable swapping affects this. Once in maybe 20 power cycles the image comes up correctly from a cold start.
> 
> 
> But as I mentioned above, changing out the Sony brand smart TV (XBR or a newer, lesser model of Sony TV, both of which behave exactly the same way), seems to be the only fix. So I am now thinking that Anthem is right that there's something different with the way Sony has done their HDMI since the Anthem D2 struggles with it so much. I was also struck by the speed at which the Anthem put the correct image up on the Samsung f6400 I had in the house for a week or two. The D2/Sammy combo worked perfectly.



Anthem may be correct that some manufacturers do things differently but those manufacturers are following the HDMI firmware rules.

It is Anthem's responsibility to get those additional changes needed to improve their HDMI output. Nothing less will be sufficient.

Sony tvs don't work ? Then Anthem needs to obtain a Sony tv in their lab and fix the problem. A certain cable box doesn't work ? Then Anthem buy one and determine what the problem is.

Denon, Pioneer, Sony and other companies are not experiencing these HDMI connection problems.

Thousands of cable boxes and Sony tvs are on the market and being interfaced properly with other AVR or PrePros.

Anthem will be left behind if they continue this avenue of thinking.

And we all contribute to it by buying into their lame excuses and putting up with the problems.


Flame me if you want,but I feel Anthem is doing a copout and we allow it to continue


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23671595
> 
> 
> I can't use RS-232 for either one, as the MRX-1 only gives you 2 RS-232 ports, and they will be used by A) Lutron RadioRA2 lighting repeater and B) An application that I cannot discuss without violating an NDA
> 
> 
> That leaves RF-to-IR (using RFX-250 tied to the MRX-1) and IP Control for everything else. There shouldn't be any problems with IR using Rear dedicated ports (as opposed to front ports that may or may not get the old-fashioned 'blaster' signal that I've been using for 8 years with limited success in my sun-filled room).
> 
> 
> -Brian



Actually, strike that. Your idea piqued my interest in this. It appears that I *may* be able to get some feedback via RS-232 (using my MX-5000's '2-way RS-232 support' as opposed to IR, which has no feedback of course. For this and other equipment reasons, I've decided to get a second MRX-1 and daisy chain it to the first one. Among other things, this will give me 2 more RS-232 ports! So the 8 million dollar question is this in regards to the Anthem - is anybody using RS-232 with the D2 or AVM series, and how well does it work compared to IR?? You should at least be able to get Volume, Power status, Mute, Input, and Mode indicators on the screen of the MX-5000 remote or other 2-way RS-232 devices, if my understanding is correct.


Thoughts??


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23677880
> 
> 
> Hi Bob. Thanks again for making suggestions on how to get this working properly.
> 
> 
> Neither of these make a difference, and I tried both (and tried the power-up sequencing a lot of different ways, repeatedly).
> 
> 
> The ONLY thing that forces the image to the correct resolution and size is to switch the source input on the D2 after everything is up and running. And by switch the inputs, I mean you must wait for the image to settle down, then switch back to the cable box source. I am using the "TV" source, which unless the TV is outputting something from the internet (since cable input is via the D2) produces a very nice pattern of vertical blue bars across the screen. Once I see that, I switch back to the cable box running through the D2 and it ALWAYS fills the screen at the desired resolution.
> 
> 
> No amount of HDMI cable swapping affects this. Once in maybe 20 power cycles the image comes up correctly from a cold start.
> 
> 
> But as I mentioned above, changing out the Sony brand smart TV (XBR or a newer, lesser model of Sony TV, both of which behave exactly the same way), seems to be the only fix. So I am now thinking that Anthem is right that there's something different with the way Sony has done their HDMI since the Anthem D2 struggles with it so much. I was also struck by the speed at which the Anthem put the correct image up on the Samsung f6400 I had in the house for a week or two. The D2/Sammy combo worked perfectly.



Have you checked on the Sony website to see if there is a firmware update for your model ??


What firmware are you running on your D2 ?? If you are using v1.33 then contact Anthem tech for the link and password to their beta website. When I had my D2 I used v1.47f because it was much more stable, especially with hdmi switching.


Tom


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23678535
> 
> 
> is anybody using RS-232 with the D2 or AVM series, and how well does it work compared to IR?? Y
> 
> 
> Thoughts??



As a 3D Projector Owner - I had to use RS-232 with my D2.


With 3D IR control - Nothing works when the PJ is flooding the screen with IR.


Of Course I use a REAL Control System.


Crestron - It has 8 RS-232 ports and Infinite Control


My D2 is NOT 3D Compatible so getting everything to work was the MAGIC only

a Crestron can do. Luckly - I am a Crestron Programmer.


Hank


----------



## bigdaddy999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23678541
> 
> 
> Have you checked on the Sony website to see if there is a firmware update for your model ??
> 
> 
> What firmware are you running on your D2 ?? If you are using v1.33 then contact Anthem tech for the link and password to their beta website. When I had my D2 I used v1.47f because it was much more stable, especially with hdmi switching.
> 
> 
> Tom



I'm running 1.47f on the D2.


The XBR is fully updated (connected all the time).


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23678335
> 
> 
> 
> Anthem may be correct that some manufacturers do things differently but those manufacturers are following the HDMI firmware rules.
> 
> It is Anthem's responsibility to get those additional changes needed to improve their HDMI output. Nothing less will be sufficient.
> 
> Sony tvs don't work ? Then Anthem needs to obtain a Sony tv in their lab and fix the problem. A certain cable box doesn't work ? Then Anthem buy one and determine what the problem is.
> 
> Denon, Pioneer, Sony and other companies are not experiencing these HDMI connection problems.
> 
> Thousands of cable boxes and Sony tvs are on the market and being interfaced properly with other AVR or PrePros.
> 
> Anthem will be left behind if they continue this avenue of thinking.
> 
> And we all contribute to it by buying into their lame excuses and putting up with the problems.
> 
> 
> Flame me if you want,but I feel Anthem is doing a copout and we allow it to continue




+10

THX


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23678335
> 
> 
> 
> Flame me if you want,but I feel Anthem is doing a copout and we allow it to continue



Where is the *FLAME BUTTON?*


That is why we HAVE *Standards* - as someone who has created from SCRATCH

Many Standards over the last 30 years - I need a FLAME BUTTON for Stew.


Hank


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23678535
> 
> 
> Actually, strike that. Your idea piqued my interest in this. It appears that I *may* be able to get some feedback via RS-232 (using my MX-5000's '2-way RS-232 support' as opposed to IR, which has no feedback of course. For this and other equipment reasons, I've decided to get a second MRX-1 and daisy chain it to the first one. Among other things, this will give me 2 more RS-232 ports! So the 8 million dollar question is this in regards to the Anthem - is anybody using RS-232 with the D2 or AVM series, and how well does it work compared to IR?? You should at least be able to get Volume, Power status, Mute, Input, and Mode indicators on the screen of the MX-5000 remote or other 2-way RS-232 devices, if my understanding is correct.
> 
> 
> Thoughts??




I have a D2 with the MSC-400 with RS232 on it and OPPO 105. Both units are Bullet Proof. No comparison to IR. The only concern is Ramp speed on the volume, you just have to adjust it, On the D2 you have a couple hundred other macro points you can add. I wish ALL other components would support RS232 ( cable boxes, TV's ) On another note, How do you like the 5000?


----------



## ManWithAPlan

I haven't played yet with the MX-5000, just got it actually - the power awaits! I'm starting to program today in fact! Donloz, what remote(s) do you use, and do they support 2-way feedback from RS-232?? That's the killer app for me. I'm wondering if anyone is getting the status feedback back from the RS-232 commands to their remote or keypad or whatever...be it URC, Crestron, AMX, whatever...I just need to know if it is indeed possible with the D2 or D2V or AVM's specifically. Of course, by about 2am tonight, I may know the answer myself, but just thought I'd ask if there's some trick to getting that feedback. I have NO doubt that RS-232 will work with the D2V, just not sure the 2-way communication will work. I"ll let ya know tonight how I make out, and how I like the new MX-5000 and MRX-1 combo! The second MRX-1 is on the way for tomorrow. Supposedly I'll be able to get feedback from the Oppo 95 as well via RS-232, like a scrub bar indicator, and time elapsed, track numbers, etc. right on my MX-5000 handheld remote, so we'll see! God I love automation - just had some Hunter Douglas motorized shades installed in the Main zone, and Lutron RadioRA2 lighting, with scenes and all...should be a crazy programming experience, coming from the old MX-950 software! AHHHHHH!!! URC doesn't make it easy, but the finished product usually rocks! [Sorry Hank, Crestron is not in the cards for me!]


Thanks guys,

-Brian


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23678935
> 
> 
> I haven't played yet with the MX-5000, just got it actually - the power awaits! I'm starting to program today in fact! Donloz, what remote(s) do you use, and do they support 2-way feedback from RS-232?? That's the killer app for me. I'm wondering if anyone is getting the status feedback back from the RS-232 commands to their remote or keypad or whatever...be it URC, Crestron, AMX, whatever...I just need to know if it is indeed possible with the D2 or D2V or AVM's specifically. Of course, by about 2am tonight, I may know the answer myself, but just thought I'd ask if there's some trick to getting that feedback. I have NO doubt that RS-232 will work with the D2V, just not sure the 2-way communication will work. I"ll let ya know tonight how I make out, and how I like the new MX-5000 and MRX-1 combo! The second MRX-1 is on the way for tomorrow. Supposedly I'll be able to get feedback from the Oppo 95 as well via RS-232, like a scrub bar indicator, and time elapsed, track numbers, etc. right on my MX-5000 handheld remote, so we'll see! God I love automation - just had some Hunter Douglas motorized shades installed in the Main zone, and Lutron RadioRA2 lighting, with scenes and all...should be a crazy programming experience, coming from the old MX-950 software! AHHHHHH!!! URC doesn't make it easy, but the finished product usually rocks! [Sorry Hank, Crestron is not in the cards for me!]
> 
> 
> Thanks guys,
> 
> -Brian



Crestron handles two way RS-232 - but I find no NEED for two way.


One way works fine if you have a one-way display controller.


There are two-way crestron displays that you can do all kind of WILD

Displays with. I only use one-way.


FYI - My Crestron System COSTS LESS than your MX-5000 SYSTEM.

I will BET MONEY on that.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23678824
> 
> 
> Where is the *FLAME BUTTON?*
> 
> 
> That is why we HAVE *Standards* - as someone who has created from SCRATCH
> 
> Many Standards over the last 30 years - I need a FLAME BUTTON for Stew.
> 
> 
> Hank



Hank


Why do you want to Flame me ?


It is Anthem not following the standards. Anthem has a responsibility to keep the changing HDMI standards up to date.

Providing they even get them right to start with. My argument starts with this.

You buy a $500 dollar Denon or Marantz etc and everything works, Sony XBR, Motorola cable box, Comcast cable box etc.

You buy a $8000 Anthem and maybe some of them work.

And this makes it even worse.

My Sony XBR works with the D2v

Both my Comcast cable boxes work. Why mine work and others do not ? Luck of the draw ?

Same reason maybe why firmware updates don't always work.

Then there is the inherent Anthem attitude. Maybe it will work or maybe it won't work not our fault, try a work-a -round.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23679022
> 
> 
> Hank
> 
> 
> Why do you want to Flame me ?
> 
> 
> It is Anthem not following the standards. Anthem has a responsibility to keep the changing HDMI standards up to date.
> 
> Providing they even get them right to start with. My argument starts with this.
> 
> You buy a $500 dollar Denon or Marantz etc and everything works, Sony XBR, Motorola cable box, Comcast cable box etc.
> 
> You buy a $8000 Anthem and maybe some of them work. And that makes it even worse. My Sony XBR works with thw D2v
> 
> Both my Comcast cable boxes work. Why mine work and others do not ? Same reason why firmware updates don't always work.
> 
> There is an inherent Anthem attitude. Maybe it will work or maybe it won't work if not try a work-a -round.



Everyone - has a HDMI Standard Test RIG these days.


Anthem - like everyone else uses Industry Standard CHIPS.


I think you are being UNFAIR about OLD EQUIPMENT that preceded Industry Standards.


MRX equipment is up to date.


I am still running a D2 - not a D2v and I have never had a problem.


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23678935
> 
> 
> I haven't played yet with the MX-5000, just got it actually - the power awaits! I'm starting to program today in fact! Donloz, what remote(s) do you use, and do they support 2-way feedback from RS-232?? That's the killer app for me. I'm wondering if anyone is getting the status feedback back from the RS-232 commands to their remote or keypad or whatever...be it URC, Crestron, AMX, whatever...I just need to know if it is indeed possible with the D2 or D2V or AVM's specifically. Of course, by about 2am tonight, I may know the answer myself, but just thought I'd ask if there's some trick to getting that feedback. I have NO doubt that RS-232 will work with the D2V, just not sure the 2-way communication will work. I"ll let ya know tonight how I make out, and how I like the new MX-5000 and MRX-1 combo! The second MRX-1 is on the way for tomorrow. Supposedly I'll be able to get feedback from the Oppo 95 as well via RS-232, like a scrub bar indicator, and time elapsed, track numbers, etc. right on my MX-5000 handheld remote, so we'll see! God I love automation - just had some Hunter Douglas motorized shades installed in the Main zone, and Lutron RadioRA2 lighting, with scenes and all...should be a crazy programming experience, coming from the old MX-950 software! AHHHHHH!!! URC doesn't make it easy, but the finished product usually rocks! [Sorry Hank, Crestron is not in the cards for me!]
> 
> 
> Thanks guys,
> 
> -Brian





Yes please let me ( us ) know if TWO way works with the D2. I am hesitant that it will work, but you never know until you try. I use the MX-980 and I have no memory left, not even for one more button. This is why I am interested in another remote. H/T, A/C, 4 Lutron-URC light zones, Killer graphics, eats up memory quick.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23678645
> 
> 
> I'm running 1.47f on the D2.
> 
> 
> The XBR is fully updated (connected all the time).



Too bad. Hope you figure it out so you don't have to do a work around every time you start up.


Tom


----------



## bigdaddy999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23679057
> 
> 
> Too bad. Hope you figure it out so you don't have to do a work around every time you start up.
> 
> 
> Tom



I'm at a loss as to what to try at this point. I've spent hours and hours on this, and no solution. I agree with other posters that for the money, this should be working just fine.


As for the comments about "old" equipment, let's keep this in perspective.


The D2 came out in 2006.

The XBR9 came out in 2009, so it's not like we're talking about generations of difference here in HDMI technology.


The only other thing is that there seems to be something else wrong with the D2 in that I cannot access the boot loader to try to change the firmware version. Anthem is ambiguous about why that might be the case. Maybe hardware issue, maybe not. But they don't seem to think I have anything going on that they can fix. So I stand with the others in concluding that they have not adequately supported the HDMI for Sony. But surely I'm not the only one that's seen this problem? Where are the rest of you folks with Sony/D2 issues?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23679039
> 
> 
> Everyone - has a HDMI Standard Test RIG these days.
> 
> 
> Anthem - like everyone else uses Industry Standard CHIPS.
> 
> 
> I think you are being UNFAIR about OLD EQUIPMENT that preceded Industry Standards.
> 
> 
> MRX equipment is up to date.
> 
> 
> I am still running a D2 - not a D2v and I have never had a problem.



Truthfully Dr

I have never had a HDMI problem. I have a D2v 3D.

What I am commenting about is my experience with their tech people on some other issues and reading here about the continuous HDMI problems.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

bigdaddy999,

Anthem recommends you do NOT use v1.47f firmware. It fixed problems with a couple of oddball TVs but was not good for general use.


Try rolling back to v1.33 -- the Official firmware for the D2.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

thestewman,

Anthem has apparently discovered they can't fix everybody else's bugs. The bug makers are too ingenious. As best I can tell ALL the big brand AVR makers and ALL the high end pre pro makers have cases where they throw up their hands and give up. They tend to be DIFFERENT cases, but they all have had to deal with the reality that HDMI is a mess when you are faced with the entire universe of devices out there.

--Bob


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaveBoswell*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23677029
> 
> 
> I have the same problem with loud "screeching" noise using the xbox via HDMI to my 50v that was always solved by cycling to another input and returning - I did some troubleshooting last night and I think I solved the problem by turning Off the EDID search in the xbox video settings. Will post again if this solution turns out to not have worked, but preliminary testing seems to indicate that it solved the problem which has pleased my 7 year old son greatly as the noise was extremely annoying.
> 
> 
> In general, as others have posted here many times, it appears that the best way to setup inputs on bopth sides of the connections is to turn off all "auto" discovery mechanisms and set the explicit settings that you want. Dreaming of the day that the HDMI spec gets thrown out and something that actually works is developed.
> 
> 
> Dave



That didn't work for me. In fact, dozens of other things I did didn't work for me. I did find two methods that reliably work though. One was setting the Xbox to just output 2 channel audio and the other which I'm using now, is to go back to software version 2.10 on my 50V. My 50V doesn't have the 3D upgrade and is an older model that needs more than the HDMI board for the 3D upgrade.


----------



## ttlnb

There is testing available for HDMI but MOST manufacturers do not send in their equipment for testing. There is a list of product that have been tested but it doesn't get updated often, I'm not sure if you can call and ask.
http://www.digital-cp.com/hdcp_products 


Some manufacturers routinely send in products like Yamaha, Sony and Panasonic but it is convenient for some of them that have authorized test facilities at one of their locations like Sony and Panasonic. You may criticize Anthem for not sending it in but even BIG companies like LG, Samsung, Motorola and other cable/ Sat box companies don't get all their products certified. They are often the brands we have to try and integrate. So even if you use a Yamaha receiver and Sony TV it does not mean you will not have problems. If it was mandatory for manufacturers to send in their equipment we would see a LOT lest problems but equipment would cost more.


Here are the test facilities.
http://www.digital-cp.com/compliance/hdmi_testing_facilities 


BTW these facilities don't test just HDCP, HDMI qualities get tested as well. I do give Anthem credit for trying to make firmware that works with some of this not certified equipment. Try to get Motorola or one of these other big companies to do that.


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23680405
> 
> 
> That didn't work for me. In fact, dozens of other things I did didn't work for me. I did find two methods that reliably work though. One was setting the Xbox to just output 2 channel audio and the other which I'm using now, is to go back to software version 2.10 on my 50V. My 50V doesn't have the 3D upgrade and is an older model that needs more than the HDMI board for the 3D upgrade.



Another method is to run optical out of the Xbox, Tens of millions of Xbox owners out there, good thing they all don't have a D2v.


----------



## bigdaddy999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23680077
> 
> 
> bigdaddy999,
> 
> Anthem recommends you do NOT use v1.47f firmware. It fixed problems with a couple of oddball TVs but was not good for general use.
> 
> 
> Try rolling back to v1.33 -- the Official firmware for the D2.
> 
> --Bob



The unit was in to Anthem in February for an HDMI repair. I am pretty certain they updated the firmware to 1.47f at the time from 1.33, and that's what is on the D2.


I tried to downgrade the software using an XP laptop with a serial connection. Got a boot loader error, and Anthem said that's a problem separate from any HDMI processing issue. I don't know if I need to use the Keyspan USB/Serial Adapter to do this, or if there's actually a problem with the D2 preventing me from being able to downgrade, but that's where things stand. I can access ARC via that connection just fine.


In April, Anthem said, in response to the error: "Cannot connect to OKI Boot Loader"


Anthem response: "OKI bootloader means there is something actually wrong with the unit."


But then this month, when I mentioned that the unit had the loader error after trying a lot of other things, I got this response, which we'd covered months ago in the same email thread. Makes no difference. Note the reference to V1.33


"It could be many things.

Once thing I can suggest is a REDMERE cable.

They seem to work great for handshake issues.


V1.33 may not correct the issue.

Usually 1.47f is used when there are handshake issues.


They also recommended Redmere cables, which I'm using. No change.


Very frustrating.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23680576
> 
> 
> The unit was in to Anthem in February for an HDMI repair. I am pretty certain they updated the firmware to 1.47f at the time from 1.33, and that's what is on the D2.
> 
> 
> I tried to downgrade the software using an XP laptop with a serial connection. Got a boot loader error, and Anthem said that's a problem separate from any HDMI processing issue. I don't know if I need to use the Keyspan USB/Serial Adapter to do this, or if there's actually a problem with the D2 preventing me from being able to downgrade, but that's where things stand
> 
> .



You NEED to FLASH ERASE to go Backwards. That is what worked on my D2.


Run FLASH ERASE more than once.


----------



## bigdaddy999




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23680619
> 
> 
> You NEED to FLASH ERASE to go Backwards. That is what worked on my D2.
> 
> 
> Run FLASH ERASE more than once.



What is Flash Erase? How do I run it?


Sorry - never heard of that process?

tx


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigdaddy999*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23680685
> 
> 
> What is Flash Erase? How do I run it?
> 
> 
> Sorry - never heard of that process?
> 
> tx



It is in your D2 Download package.


If you don't have it - PM Me


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaveBoswell*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23677029
> 
> 
> I have the same problem with loud "screeching" noise using the xbox via HDMI to my 50v that was always solved by cycling to another input and returning - I did some troubleshooting last night and I think I solved the problem by turning Off the EDID search in the xbox video settings. Will post again if this solution turns out to not have worked, but preliminary testing seems to indicate that it solved the problem which has pleased my 7 year old son greatly as the noise was extremely annoying.
> 
> 
> In general, as others have posted here many times, it appears that the best way to setup inputs on bopth sides of the connections is to turn off all "auto" discovery mechanisms and set the explicit settings that you want. Dreaming of the day that the HDMI spec gets thrown out and something that actually works is developed.
> 
> 
> Dave



Interesting Dave, this is EXCELLENT news, thanks a ton! Was just struggling with the same thing this weekend, that screech is completely annoying. Always solved it the same way you did, by changing inputs, but I'll now try your trick with that EDID setting in the Xbox. Let's hope if we upgrade to the new XBOX one in November, that it won't suffer the same problems over HDMI. I just read recently that the new Xbox will not have any other video connection other than HDMI, so no Component at all, same with the Sony PS4. Like it or not, we're stuck with HDMI, so I hope Anthem is doing more testing than ever, and committed to do so for the new platforms as they become available.


Thanks again for finding a fix, I'll try it this afternoon and report back.


-Brian


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23679022
> 
> 
> It is Anthem not following the standards.



With all due respect, sir, tell that to HDMI, who has certified the D2, D2v, and their AVM cousins. The most recent re-opening of this dead-horse topic, born in this very thread in the year of 2006, seems to have started in post 41353

http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41340#post_23630319 


excerpt from what you quoted to make your point about Anthem copping out:

 


Now THERE's a new one... Anthem is not even in his system but you're still telling the world it's Anthem's fault. As for your claim of no one else having problems, I didn't even finish typing a query when auto-complete started saying, "oh yes they do..."

 


To fact-check and proof-read would have taken 1% of the effort put into a single post.


Reminder: Please don't send me PM because on average I check in once every few months. The regular tech support channels are easily reachable.


----------



## DaveBoswell




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23681263
> 
> 
> Interesting Dave, this is EXCELLENT news, thanks a ton! Was just struggling with the same thing this weekend, that screech is completely annoying. Always solved it the same way you did, by changing inputs, but I'll now try your trick with that EDID setting in the Xbox. Let's hope if we upgrade to the new XBOX one in November, that it won't suffer the same problems over HDMI. I just read recently that the new Xbox will not have any other video connection other than HDMI, so no Component at all, same with the Sony PS4. Like it or not, we're stuck with HDMI, so I hope Anthem is doing more testing than ever, and committed to do so for the new platforms as they become available.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for finding a fix, I'll try it this afternoon and report back.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Thanks, hope it works for you.


----------



## AVfile

The problem with standards is they contain typos and ambiguities that leave it open to interpretation, plus people just make mistakes. If I coded my software to a spec and just sat back while our suppliers coded to their software to the same spec, without doing any integration testing, our customer simply would not have a working product. The plane would never leave the hangar. This is why they pay millions for a very lengthy qualification process sometimes taking years, despite all the documentation they have already paid millions for. In the consumer world people get impatient and demand new products and free upgrades fast so this level of testing gets pushed off onto them. So we become the "integrators" in our own living rooms.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23678535
> 
> 
> Actually, strike that. Your idea piqued my interest in this. It appears that I *may* be able to get some feedback via RS-232 (using my MX-5000's '2-way RS-232 support' as opposed to IR, which has no feedback of course. For this and other equipment reasons, I've decided to get a second MRX-1 and daisy chain it to the first one. Among other things, this will give me 2 more RS-232 ports! So the 8 million dollar question is this in regards to the Anthem - is anybody using RS-232 with the D2 or AVM series, and how well does it work compared to IR?? You should at least be able to get Volume, Power status, Mute, Input, and Mode indicators on the screen of the MX-5000 remote or other 2-way RS-232 devices, if my understanding is correct.
> 
> 
> Thoughts??



I'm using RS-232 with my Roomie Remote on iOS. It's flawless and I have two-way feedback. I tested two way feedback initially using RS-232 command line tools from the old days. I'll have to find what tool you're trying to use, but it works.


Let me also say that I'm getting far, far more than you listed in terms of display data. I can get queries back for what the current audio setting is and I've also coded in feedback for what radio station is playing, but Roomie needs to program that into the app for it to display the feedback.


Remember that the vendor (in my case, Roomie) has to then have proper support for the commands and display that the Anthem is sending back. Otherwise, the two-way communication doesn't work.


Bottom line, yes, RS232 works. It works wonderfully well and you get 2-way feedback if the remote supports it.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23682354
> 
> 
> I'm using RS-232 with my Roomie Remote on iOS. It's flawless and I have two-way feedback. I tested two way feedback initially using RS-232 command line tools from the old days. I'll have to find what tool you're trying to use, but it works.
> 
> 
> Let me also say that I'm getting far, far more than you listed in terms of display data. I can get queries back for what the current audio setting is and I've also coded in feedback for what radio station is playing, but Roomie needs to program that into the app for it to display the feedback.
> 
> 
> Remember that the vendor (in my case, Roomie) has to then have proper support for the commands and display that the Anthem is sending back. Otherwise, the two-way communication doesn't work.
> 
> 
> Bottom line, yes, RS232 works. It works wonderfully well and you get 2-way feedback if the remote supports it.



Very cool, thanks a ton for the feedback. I am using a URC remote, specifically the MX-5000, which supports 2-way RS-232 among other things. I will let you know perhaps tonight at 3am if it works (I had a delay as I just got back from the dealership getting the 3D board installed in my D2V! Wooooohoooo!). Now I get to re-connect 800 cables to it, trying not to forget how everything was wired, and then I can start the long process of programming all my new URC crap. Oh what fun it is, just in time though for football season, labor day, US Open tennis, and new seasons of Boardwalk Empire and other perfectly good ways to waste time!


-Brian


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23665111
> 
> 
> But what does it all mean. New batch of mics? New calibration system?
> 
> 
> I didn't read the article yet, just looked at the graphs and you are right, they do look like mine at the top end. His graphs also seemed to be centered around 65db. I don't know if that's because he didn't set the LF and sub to 75db, or if its an anomaly with win8. Again I didn't read the article yet, but plan to soon. Bronco's play tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and its an addiction I need to feed.
> 
> 
> It will be interesting to see ASW's new graphs when he gets a new mic . Good luck with that ASW. Keep us updated, please.
> 
> 
> Tom



A quick update. Anthem is going to send me a different mic to see if it helps.


So far I cannot find an old ARC file from my D2 days, but attached are the graphs using my current mic. I will post the graphs from the new mic after I get it.


Alan

Arc graphs.pdf 146k .pdf file


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23682354
> 
> 
> I'm using RS-232 with my Roomie Remote on iOS. It's flawless and I have two-way feedback. I tested two way feedback initially using RS-232 command line tools from the old days. I'll have to find what tool you're trying to use, but it works.
> 
> 
> Let me also say that I'm getting far, far more than you listed in terms of display data. I can get queries back for what the current audio setting is and I've also coded in feedback for what radio station is playing, but Roomie needs to program that into the app for it to display the feedback.
> 
> 
> Remember that the vendor (in my case, Roomie) has to then have proper support for the commands and display that the Anthem is sending back. Otherwise, the two-way communication doesn't work.
> 
> 
> Bottom line, yes, RS232 works. It works wonderfully well and you get 2-way feedback if the remote supports it.



By the way, are you using an RS-232 splitter of some sort, so you can keep the connection for the remote control and still have a connection available for software and ARC updates? Of course, if you can easily access the back of your D2V this is no big deal to swap connections when you need to, but for those of us with no easy access to the back of the device once it's in its place, I am wondering what the solution is.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23683403
> 
> 
> By the way, are you using an RS-232 splitter of some sort, so you can keep the connection for the remote control and still have a connection available for software and ARC updates? Of course, if you can easily access the back of your D2V this is no big deal to swap connections when you need to, but for those of us with no easy access to the back of the device once it's in its place, I am wondering what the solution is.



No splitter. I manually unplug it for firmware updates or ARC. Good luck and hope it works. I also use direct IP control with 2-way feedback from Roomie on a Marantz and I prefer the RS232.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *studlygoorite*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41460#post_23680552
> 
> 
> Another method is to run optical out of the Xbox, Tens of millions of Xbox owners out there, good thing they all don't have a D2v.



I forgot that one, but I'm stubborn. It worked for years over HDMI, so I wanted it to continue to work over HDMI. If it wasn't for ARC, I'd be looking for another solution for this problem.


----------



## dmusoke


Is the headphone output of the D2v/50v pre or post ARC? I think its pre-ARC but I want confirmation...Thx!


----------



## AV_mike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23685234
> 
> 
> Is the headphone output of the D2v/50v pre or post ARC? I think its pre-ARC but I want confirmation...Thx!



Circuitry wise I don't know if the headphone is taken off before or after, but ARC will be completely bypassed when using headphones - as the 'Room' no longer exists to require Correction.

Regards, Mike


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Right. Besides, sticking the ARC mic up your nose is no fun....


Headphone output is processed in the sense that it is the Stereo down-mix of the Main Path audio. Bass, Treble, and Balance adjustments are also available (Manual Section 4.7) if Bypass is not selected. And of course Volume.


The easiest way to remember this is to think of ARC as an output stage function, tied to each speaker. There's no ARC data for the Headphone speakers, nor for the speakers on Zone 2 or Zone 3.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke


Thanks AV and Bob. Y'all make sense now ... Was never aware the headphone output is a stereo down-mix of all 7.1 output channels.


----------



## Korey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23683403
> 
> 
> By the way, are you using an RS-232 splitter of some sort, so you can keep the connection for the remote control and still have a connection available for software and ARC updates? Of course, if you can easily access the back of your D2V this is no big deal to swap connections when you need to, but for those of us with no easy access to the back of the device once it's in its place, I am wondering what the solution is.



I use SR-2 Serial Routers to enable multiple device control of RS232 components.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Korey*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23688209
> 
> 
> I use SR-2 Serial Routers to enable multiple device control of RS232 components.



Interesting. I'm tempted, but for 150 bucks, I think I can pull my rack out and connect the laptop to do firmware updates and ARC re-calibration (barely twice a year on average). Thanks though, this is bookmarked now for consideration in the future.


-Brian


----------



## AVfile

You could use an old switchbox, or just connect the wires together manually with the right gender adapter.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Having a problem with my HDMI2 output to the small rack TV that was working fine before I had the dealer do the 3D video board upgrade. I use this small TV as a way of avoiding turning on my large TV when I simply want to stream music from my Oppo 95, or watch my SAT source or CABLE source when I'm sitting right next to the rack and don't need a nice big TV. Okay, since the D2V upgrade to add the 3D capable board, I can no longer get proper HDMI syncing from the Oppo 95 when using the HDMI2 display when the main HDMI1 display is turned off. The SAT Tivo and the Cable Series 3 Tivo both work fine without the main display on, but the Oppo source does not. It tries like mad to get a "lock" on the signal, but after 3 seconds of displaying properly, it flakes out and goes back and forth like that forever. I've tried lowering the resolution on the Oppo to 480p or 480i (instead of Source Direct) and still no luck. I've tried moving the Oppo input to a different HDMI port on the D2V, and no luck (upper vs. lower 4 inputs, tried them both). No change. This was working perfectly without the 3D board upgrade (even with 3.09 code I had put on *before* the hw upgrade). Of course, immediately after the upgrade, I put 3.09 on again, as dictated by Anthem's release notes and others here. I'm at a complete dead end. This is a MAJOR problem, as one of the most important requirements is to be able to surf the Oppo and use its many features *without* needing to power on the main HDMI1 out display.


I know there are others from years passed here that have projectors or what not off HDMI1 and small little displays on HDMI2 like mine for exactly this purpose, anybody have 3.09 with the 3D board upgrade and with an Oppo Blu-ray player of some sort, even if not the 95?


Thanks for any help anyone can think of...


-Brian


----------



## Tim Winders

3D upgrade? Wow, I've been gone a LONG time. Email subscription notifications just started showing up again for me. Hey, look! I'm still a gold subscriber member!


So, where are we with the Statement products? I'm an "original" D2 owner, not a D2v. I asked about an upgrade a few years back and was told there wasn't an upgrade path... I got a "trade in" price, but it certainly didn't make sense.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23696942
> 
> 
> Having a problem with my HDMI2 output to the small rack TV that was working fine before I had the dealer do the 3D video board upgrade. I use this small TV as a way of avoiding turning on my large TV when I simply want to stream music from my Oppo 95, or watch my SAT source or CABLE source when I'm sitting right next to the rack and don't need a nice big TV. Okay, since the D2V upgrade to add the 3D capable board, I can no longer get proper HDMI syncing from the Oppo 95 when using the HDMI2 display when the main HDMI1 display is turned off. The SAT Tivo and the Cable Series 3 Tivo both work fine without the main display on, but the Oppo source does not. It tries like mad to get a "lock" on the signal, but after 3 seconds of displaying properly, it flakes out and goes back and forth like that forever. I've tried lowering the resolution on the Oppo to 480p or 480i (instead of Source Direct) and still no luck. I've tried moving the Oppo input to a different HDMI port on the D2V, and no luck (upper vs. lower 4 inputs, tried them both). No change. This was working perfectly without the 3D board upgrade (even with 3.09 code I had put on *before* the hw upgrade). Of course, immediately after the upgrade, I put 3.09 on again, as dictated by Anthem's release notes and others here. I'm at a complete dead end. This is a MAJOR problem, as one of the most important requirements is to be able to surf the Oppo and use its many features *without* needing to power on the main HDMI1 out display.
> 
> 
> I know there are others from years passed here that have projectors or what not off HDMI1 and small little displays on HDMI2 like mine for exactly this purpose, anybody have 3.09 with the 3D board upgrade and with an Oppo Blu-ray player of some sort, even if not the 95?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help anyone can think of...
> 
> 
> -Brian



Brian


It must be either your HDMI cable or the OPPO setup as the HDMI 2 is in parallel with HDMI 1.

Do you have the same problem if you have HDMI 1 as the output for the OPPO ?

Check the OPPO for designated output selections instead of auto etc.


Stew


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23697392
> 
> 
> Brian
> 
> 
> It must be either your HDMI cable or the OPPO setup as the HDMI 2 is in parallel with HDMI 1.
> 
> Do you have the same problem if you have HDMI 1 as the output for the OPPO ?
> 
> Check the OPPO for designated output selections instead of auto etc.
> 
> 
> Stew



Not the cable Stew, its a high speed cable, same one as I was using 5 days ago when it was working perfectly. And I'm not talking about the Oppo's 2 HDMI outputs, I'm talking about the D2V's HDMI Main Out and HDMI2 out (you know, there are 2 outputs on the D2V). One is processed, one is not. HDMI2 is not just a parellel path of HDMI1. I am only using 1 HDMI out on the Oppo itself, that being HDMI1, it goes to the D2V. The issue revolves around the fact that I use 2 different displays as output from the D2V, one for my large TV and one for the small rack monitor. Again, I have 2 Tivo's that don't exhibit this problem at all, only the Oppo doesn't handshake properly when HDMI1 output on the D2V (the main large TV) is powered off.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23696942
> 
> 
> Having a problem with my HDMI2 output to the small rack TV that was working fine before I had the dealer do the 3D video board upgrade. I use this small TV as a way of avoiding turning on my large TV when I simply want to stream music from my Oppo 95, or watch my SAT source or CABLE source when I'm sitting right next to the rack and don't need a nice big TV. Okay, since the D2V upgrade to add the 3D capable board, I can no longer get proper HDMI syncing from the Oppo 95 when using the HDMI2 display when the main HDMI1 display is turned off. The SAT Tivo and the Cable Series 3 Tivo both work fine without the main display on, but the Oppo source does not. It tries like mad to get a "lock" on the signal, but after 3 seconds of displaying properly, it flakes out and goes back and forth like that forever. I've tried lowering the resolution on the Oppo to 480p or 480i (instead of Source Direct) and still no luck. I've tried moving the Oppo input to a different HDMI port on the D2V, and no luck (upper vs. lower 4 inputs, tried them both). No change. This was working perfectly without the 3D board upgrade (even with 3.09 code I had put on *before* the hw upgrade). Of course, immediately after the upgrade, I put 3.09 on again, as dictated by Anthem's release notes and others here. I'm at a complete dead end. This is a MAJOR problem, as one of the most important requirements is to be able to surf the Oppo and use its many features *without* needing to power on the main HDMI1 out display.
> 
> 
> I know there are others from years passed here that have projectors or what not off HDMI1 and small little displays on HDMI2 like mine for exactly this purpose, anybody have 3.09 with the 3D board upgrade and with an Oppo Blu-ray player of some sort, even if not the 95?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help anyone can think of...
> 
> 
> -Brian


For diagnosis, try the same thing but with the cable disconnected from the D2v's HDMI 1 output. If that works then the problem is that the TV is keeping that HDMI 1 connection "live" even though the TV is OFF, but it's not responding as expected during he handshakes. It may be possible to work around that by disabling things like HDMI CEC in that TV (may mean switching to a different HDMI input on it).


OPPO has an upgraded Anthem in their lab, and may also be able to offer assistance. My guess is the other sources aren't trying to negotiate Copy Protection to the powered down TV.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Another thing to try is to switch the main TV to a different HDMI input -- perhaps one not even cabled -- before turning it OFF. It may only be keeping its "last used" HDMI input live when it is turned off.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23697855
> 
> 
> Not the cable Stew, its a high speed cable, same one as I was using 5 days ago when it was working perfectly. And I'm not talking about the Oppo's 2 HDMI outputs, I'm talking about the D2V's HDMI Main Out and HDMI2 out (you know, there are 2 outputs on the D2V). One is processed, one is not. HDMI2 is not just a parellel path of HDMI1. I am only using 1 HDMI out on the Oppo itself, that being HDMI1, it goes to the D2V. The issue revolves around the fact that I use 2 different displays as output from the D2V, one for my large TV and one for the small rack monitor. Again, I have 2 Tivo's that don't exhibit this problem at all, only the Oppo doesn't handshake properly when HDMI1 output on the D2V (the main large TV) is powered off.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Brian

I understand what you are trying to accomplish.

After I read your post I moved my display to HDMI 2 OUT to test HDMI 2 and it works for every input from the HDMI inputs 1-6.

There is No on screen display from the Anthem from HDMI 2 out

Try different Anthem HDMI inputs from 1 to 4 on the top board.


From Anthem's web site

"It’s now 3D equipped. Fully featured 7.1-channel audio and video processor, 8 HDMI Inputs and *2 Parallel HDMI outputs* with the top four ports (HDMI 1 through 4) and top output (HDMI 1) supporting true bypass sensing 3D inputs automatically, Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD Master Audio, PCM 24/192, highest quality 1080p upscaling with 1080p24 compatibility, Anthem Room Correction, premium quality A/D and D/A converters, 24-bit/192 kHz upsampling on all channels in main zone, two stereo zones."


Also try an input on the lower board for the OPPO bypassing the 3D sensing


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23697862
> 
> 
> For diagnosis, try the same thing but with the cable disconnected from the D2v's HDMI 1 output. If that works then the problem is that the TV is keeping that HDMI 1 connection "live" even though the TV is OFF, but it's not responding as expected during he handshakes. It may be possible to work around that by disabling things like HDMI CEC in that TV (may mean switching to a different HDMI input on it).
> 
> 
> OPPO has an upgraded Anthem in their lab, and may also be able to offer assistance. My guess is the other sources aren't trying to negotiate Copy Protection to the powered down TV.
> 
> --Bob



Okay, I tried what you suggested, removing HDMI1 out completely from the back of the D2V, and voila! the picture stays synced properly to the little TV attached to HDMI2 out of D2V. So, it is definitely something about the D2V really wanting to sync badly with the TV, even though it is off. I then tried your suggestion of looking for disablement of HDMI CEC on the TV itself, and there are no such settings, I looked everywhere (it's a Sharp Elite 70 inch). Then, I tried switching the TV to a different HDMI input (one with nothing attached in fact) before powering it off, and still it forces the little display to freak out and not get a solid signal from the Oppo. I even tried changing the TV input to the Component input to try and fool it, and still no luck. The TV, no matter what it's set to, is still keeping HDMI1 input "live" as you say. But again, the weirdest thing is that none of my other sources (DirecTV Tivo THR-22 nor Tivo Series 3 for cable) exhibits this problem. I can watch them all day long on the little TV with the main TV totally turned off. I suspect that Oppo is the problem, the real issue lies with how it wants to sync with a powered off device. No?


Thanks again Bob, very much appreciate your helping me track this down.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Actually it sounds to me like the HDMI copy protection check is failing, so you are getting constant retries. The OPPO knows the TV on that cable is "live", but the TV is not responding in the expected fashion.


In any event, I suggest you give OPPO Tech Support a call and see if they can help diagnose this for you. As I said, they have an upgraded Anthem in their lab, and may also have some history with your model of main TV.


Obviously you should also check that you have the latest firmware in your OPPO.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Brian,

I am guessing that since the "3D" upgrade you have video output config set to "through"? Try setting it to an explicit 1080p mode and see if the problem goes away. There are known handshake problems with sources in this mode when the display is off. Let us know.

Stefan


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23698449
> 
> 
> Brian,
> 
> I am guessing that since the "3D" upgrade you have video output config set to "through"? Try setting it to an explicit 1080p mode and see if the problem goes away. There are known handshake problems with sources in this mode when the display is off. Let us know.
> 
> Stefan



Well, I have a new 'virtual source' that is called Blu-3D and is set to Through, but no, I haven't been using that one at all in this testing. In fact, in Through mode, there will never be any video output at all on HDMI2, that's noted in the D2V manual in fact. So no, I was using the plain old original source that I have for 1080p/60 output for the Oppo like it's always been, and the Oppo itself is set to output "source direct". I've tried setting the Oppo resolution to a fixed variable like 480p or 480i or 1080p, and it still has the exact same problem.


-Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23698336
> 
> 
> ^ Actually it sounds to me like the HDMI copy protection check is failing, so you are getting constant retries. The OPPO knows the TV on that cable is "live", but the TV is not responding in the expected fashion.
> 
> 
> In any event, I suggest you give OPPO Tech Support a call and see if they can help diagnose this for you. As I said, they have an upgraded Anthem in their lab, and may also have some history with your model of main TV.
> 
> 
> Obviously you should also check that you have the latest firmware in your OPPO.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I will call Oppo and attempt to describe this to them in a way they will understand. The key to understanding the issue is understanding all the moving parts,from the Oppo to the Anthem to the Elite 70 and the little rack monitor. I suspect they will not have all of these exact parts to test, so they will blame me for having screwed something up. It's just such a waste of time. Notice that we all just put up with HDMI problems like this, self included. Remember Component video??? It worked like a charm, every damn time. Who really is winning with this whole HDMI thing anyway? it may be the world's worst standard, if you can even call it that.


In any case, thank you again Bob, super helpful as always!


-Brian


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23698212
> 
> 
> Okay, I tried what you suggested, removing HDMI1 out completely from the back of the D2V, and voila! the picture stays synced properly to the little TV attached to HDMI2 out of D2V. So, it is definitely something about the D2V really wanting to sync badly with the TV, even though it is off. _I then tried your suggestion of looking for disablement of HDMI CEC on the TV itself, and there are no such settings, I looked everywhere (it's a Sharp Elite 70 inch)._ Then, I tried switching the TV to a different HDMI input (one with nothing attached in fact) before powering it off, and still it forces the little display to freak out and not get a solid signal from the Oppo. I even tried changing the TV input to the Component input to try and fool it, and still no luck. The TV, no matter what it's set to, is still keeping HDMI1 input "live" as you say. But again, the weirdest thing is that none of my other sources (DirecTV Tivo THR-22 nor Tivo Series 3 for cable) exhibits this problem. I can watch them all day long on the little TV with the main TV totally turned off. I suspect that Oppo is the problem, the real issue lies with how it wants to sync with a powered off device. No?
> 
> 
> Thanks again Bob, very much appreciate your helping me track this down.
> 
> 
> -Brian



I opened the manual for the PRO 70X5FD (is this your model?) and on pg 62-63 they talk about 'Link Control' which is their name for CEC control. Make sure "Link Control" disabled in your TV's setup menu.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23698963
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. I will call Oppo and attempt to describe this to them in a way they will understand. The key to understanding the issue is understanding all the moving parts,from the Oppo to the Anthem to the Elite 70 and the little rack monitor. I suspect they will not have all of these exact parts to test, so they will blame me for having screwed something up. It's just such a waste of time. Notice that we all just put up with HDMI problems like this, self included. Remember Component video??? It worked like a charm, every damn time. Who really is winning with this whole HDMI thing anyway? it may be the world's worst standard, if you can even call it that.
> 
> 
> In any case, thank you again Bob, super helpful as always!
> 
> 
> -Brian



To add to everyone's dismay it is going to more complicated shortly


*HDMI 2.0 officially announced: 18Gbps bandwidth, 60fps 4K, 32 channel audio*


HDMI FORUM RELEASES VERSION 2.0 OF THE HDMI SPECIFICATION


Increased bandwidth provides the infrastructure for new features that will drive the next generation of consumer entertainment


BERLIN, Germany - September 4, 2013 – IFA 2013 – HDMI Forum, Inc., a non-profit, mutual benefit corporation, today announced the release of Version 2.0 of the HDMI Specification. This latest HDMI Specification, the first to be developed by the HDMI Forum, offers a significant increase in bandwidth (up to 18Gbps) to support new features such as [email protected]/60 (2160p), which is 4 times the clarity of 1080p/60 video resolution; 32 audio channels; as well as dynamic auto lip-sync and extensions to CEC. The complete Version 2.0 of the HDMI Specification is available to Adopters on the HDMI Adopter Extranet. HDMI Licensing, LLC will host a press conference to discuss the new features of the HDMI 2.0 Specification at IFA 2013 in Berlin on Friday, September 6 at 12:00pm in the TecWatch Forum area of Hall 11.1.


Version 2.0 of the HDMI Specification, which is backward compatible with earlier versions of the Specification, was developed by the HDMI Forum's Technical Working Group whose members represent some of the world's leading manufacturers of consumer electronics, personal computers, mobile devices, cables and components. The HDMI Forum currently has a membership of 88 companies.


"The introduction of the HDMI 2.0 Specification represents a major milestone for the HDMI Forum," said Robert Blanchard of Sony Corporation, president of the HDMI Forum. "Our members collaborated closely to take the highly successful HDMI Specification to the next level by expanding audio and video features for consumer electronics applications."


The HDMI Forum has chosen HDMI Licensing, LLC to be the Agent to license Version 2.0 of the HDMI Specification. In this role, HDMI Licensing, LLC will provide marketing, promotional, licensing and administrative services, as well as education on the benefits of the HDMI Specification to adopters, retailers, and consumers.


"We are pleased to continue our work in supporting the HDMI Adopter base as well as the entire HDMI ecosystem," said Steve Venuti, president of HDMI Licensing, LLC. "Adopters can now continue to develop new product functionality over the HDMI interface as well as look to HDMI Licensing, LLC as their single contact for all their licensing and administrative needs."


Version 2.0 of the HDMI Specification does not define new cables or new connectors. Current High Speed cables (category 2 cables) are capable of carrying the increased bandwidth.


The HDMI 2.0 Compliance Test Specification (CTS) is expected to be released before the end of 2013.


For more information about Version 2.0 of the HDMI Specification please visit http://www.hdmi.org .


----------



## MC485

Hello, everyone. Recently I bought AVM 50 (not 50V) but did not come with ARC-1 kit. Can I use my friend's MRX300 ARC kit to connect AVM 50 to cal ARC? Thanks~


----------



## AV_mike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MC485*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23699488
> 
> 
> Hello, everyone. Recently I bought AVM 50 (not 50V) but did not come with ARC-1 kit. Can I use my friend's MRX300 ARC kit to connect AVM 50 to cal ARC? Thanks~



I understand that the short answer is YES. Early ARC implementations required a serial number file for both the Unit and Microphone, but the current ARC v3.02 only looks for the Microphone cal file, which will be on your friends original installation CD, and if you're using their laptop then it should simply find your AVM50 once connected. Hope this is correct, as my experience only extends to the MRX range.

Regards, mike.


----------



## ehlarson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23699479
> 
> 
> 
> Version 2.0 of the HDMI Specification does not define new connectors.



In other words they aren't fixing the #1 problem with this tech.


Great. I have problems with getting a connection that works for just deep color. How is this going to work with 4K?


----------



## AVfile

Yeah, that's going to make things interesting.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23699204
> 
> 
> I opened the manual for the PRO 70X5FD (is this your model?) and on pg 62-63 they talk about 'Link Control' which is their name for CEC control. Make sure "Link Control" disabled in your TV's setup menu.
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom, yes indeed Link Control has always been disabled on my set. Not the issue. But good thought for sure.


-Brian


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV_mike*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23699527
> 
> 
> I understand that the short answer is YES. Early ARC implementations required a serial number file for both the Unit and Microphone, but the current ARC v3.02 only looks for the Microphone cal file, which will be on your friends original installation CD, and if you're using their laptop then it should simply find your AVM50 once connected.



Only if the AVM50 has the ARC upgrade hardware installed.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23698963
> 
> 
> . . . .
> 
> 
> In any case, thank you again Bob, super helpful as always!
> 
> 
> -Brian



Don't worry. The HDMI 2.0 spec got published today, and according the press release, it is perfect.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MC485*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23699488
> 
> 
> Hello, everyone. Recently I bought AVM 50 (not 50V) but did not come with ARC-1 kit. Can I use my friend's MRX300 ARC kit to connect AVM 50 to cal ARC? Thanks~



If your AVM 50 did not come with an ARC-1 kit, then it very likely ALSO does not have the upgraded audio processing board in it to enable ARC processing. I.e., using your friend's mic and software won't do any good, because the necessary hardware isn't in your AVM 50.


Give Anthem Tech Support a call with the serial # of your AVM 50, and they should be able to tell you.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ehlarson*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23699893
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23699479
> 
> 
> 
> Version 2.0 of the HDMI Specification does not define new connectors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other words they aren't fixing the #1 problem with this tech.
> 
> 
> Great. I have problems with getting a connection that works for just deep color. How is this going to work with 4K?
Click to expand...


The press release assures us that ALL existing Category 2 certified HDMI cable (i.e., currently marketed as "For 1080p") will work just fine. If it doesn't, then it must be you aren't using it right. Read the manual that came with your cable.


Some folks have also reported that a chalk Pentagram helps.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan

So I reported the issue to Oppo Tech Support, they are going to add it to their things to test. The Tech Support guy did spend a great deal of time with me testing all kinds of things. We did so many different scenarios my head is spinning. But net of it is that first he thought it was actually the Anthem that is the problem, but then finally the device to blame is the little 7inch Xenarc rack space monitor that I use. He is fairly sure they can get ahold of one at Oppo and test with it. Of course, as luck would have it, and after putting everything back the way it was, now I cannot get any output at all to the Xenarc from ANY source, including the Tivo and DirecTV boxes that had been working fine. I cant' even get a picture when the main TV is ON let alone when it's OFF. So, things are now worse than they were before I opened my big mouth to complain. Wow...so, I'm tempted to ditch the little Xenarc and buy another small monitor for my rack. Anybody know of an HDMI-based 7 inch monitor that is worth its salt??? I may have to ditch the Xenarc and buy something else.


Gotta love how the HDMI marketing machine gets you to just keep spending - new displays, new cables all the time, new sources, and the beat goes on....


Crazy that I fall for it...nurse??? Can I get an IV drip of Calgon please??? Take me away!!!!!! AHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Brian, check your cabling. Odds are you just plugged into the wrong socket at one end or the other. If the little monitor has more than one input socket, make sure the correct one is selected for viewing in it.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23701118
> 
> 
> Brian, check your cabling. Odds are you just plugged into the wrong socket at one end or the other. If the little monitor has more than one input socket, make sure the correct one is selected for viewing in it.
> 
> --Bob



There is only 1 cable its a breakout cable with HDMI in it among other things. I've reseated the cable at least 5 times, I know exactly how everything is cabled, and it now just gives me "Not Support" (nice english) on the screen in bright red when I try to display anything over HDMI on it. The Oppo tech had had me connect it directly to the Oppo for a test and then swap it around to HDMI1 on the Anthem instead of 2, etc. etc. Everything is now back the way it was, all settings and everything, and now the "Not Support" on the display. Ridiculous. I just want a 7inch HDMI monitor that actually works. I am willing to test things, but this is ridiculous.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23701312
> 
> 
> There is only 1 cable its a breakout cable with HDMI in it among other things. I've reseated the cable at least 5 times, I know exactly how everything is cabled, and it now just gives me "Not Support" (nice english) on the screen in bright red when I try to display anything over HDMI on it. The Oppo tech had had me connect it directly to the Oppo for a test and then swap it around to HDMI1 on the Anthem instead of 2, etc. etc. Everything is now back the way it was, all settings and everything, and now the "Not Support" on the display. Ridiculous. I just want a 7inch HDMI monitor that actually works. I am willing to test things, but this is ridiculous.



Brian


If you plug the HDMI 1 output into your 7" display does that work ?


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23701454
> 
> 
> Brian
> 
> 
> If you plug the HDMI 1 output into your 7" display does that work ?



Nope, doesn't work. I have even gone so far as to plug it directly into the Oppo's HDMI1 output and HDMI2 output and it still just says "Not Support"....I think something I did switching everything around for the Oppo guy has screwed up the HDMI "break-out" bundle cable of the Xenarc. This thing is very fragile the more I deal with it. I think I may have fried it entirely. Going to disconnect and power off everything and try over again from scratch, with the Xenarc directly in the Oppo for starters, then move it of course if I have success.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Okay, after disconnecting and unscrewing the breakout cable including HDMI from the Xenarc and disconnecting and powering off every piece of gear in the chain, I was able to get the Xenarc working again upon reconnection. I can now watch DirecTV on the little Xenarc by itself without the Main HDMI1 output 70 inch TV turned on!!! Same with the Tivo Series 3 cable box. So I'm now back to status quo, with those 2 sources working fine but the Oppo95 of course still not allowing just a single active output from HDMI2 of the Anthem.


Hopefully Oppo Engineering will be able to acquire a Xenarc and try it for themselves with their D2V that they do indeed have in-house. All details have been submitted. So we'll see...they told me it may take up to 2 months for this to be investigated. So I won't hold my breath.


-Brian


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23701816
> 
> 
> Okay, after disconnecting and unscrewing the breakout cable including HDMI from the Xenarc and disconnecting and powering off every piece of gear in the chain, I was able to get the Xenarc working again upon reconnection. I can now watch DirecTV on the little Xenarc by itself without the Main HDMI1 output 70 inch TV turned on!!! Same with the Tivo Series 3 cable box. So I'm now back to status quo, with those 2 sources working fine but the Oppo95 of course still not allowing just a single active output from HDMI2 of the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Hopefully Oppo Engineering will be able to acquire a Xenarc and try it for themselves with their D2V that they do indeed have in-house. All details have been submitted. So we'll see...they told me it may take up to 2 months for this to be investigated. So I won't hold my breath.
> 
> 
> -Brian




Brian,


If your issues are resulting from HDCP copy protection problems as Bob suggested a while back, the following may help. One way potentially to "cure" HDCP issues is with a ViewHD 2 port 1x2 powered mini HDMI splitter. If you put this little $24 device between your Oppo and your D2v, it might work around your issue if it is in fact a HDCP copy protection issue. For what it is worth, I have a Slingbox 500 that got HDCP errors on most channels when I used the Slingbox's HDMI connection (Sling usually suggests connecting the Slingbox bothe with HDMI and component connections to deal with HDCP issues). I used this extremely small ViewHD splitter to split my HDMI out from a Tivo Roamio to my Sling and my TV and voila, no more HDCP problems -- the Sling now works on all channels at all times using just its HDMI connection. Just a thought.


Alan


----------



## AV_mike

To MC485, sorry about the duff information - I'm not familiar with all the other Anthem variants.

Regards, Mike.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23702260
> 
> 
> Brian,
> 
> 
> If your issues are resulting from HDCP copy protection problems as Bob suggested a while back, the following may help. One way potentially to "cure" HDCP issues is with a ViewHD 2 port 1x2 powered mini HDMI splitter. If you put this little $24 device between your Oppo and your D2v, it might work around your issue if it is in fact a HDCP copy protection issue. For what it is worth, I have a Slingbox 500 that got HDCP errors on most channels when I used the Slingbox's HDMI connection (Sling usually suggests connecting the Slingbox bothe with HDMI and component connections to deal with HDCP issues). I used this extremely small ViewHD splitter to split my HDMI out from a Tivo Roamio to my Sling and my TV and voila, no more HDCP problems -- the Sling now works on all channels at all times using just its HDMI connection. Just a thought.
> 
> 
> Alan



Alan, thanks, I'm aware of these types of tricks, but you forget that the whole point here is to have switching capability - that is, ANY source should be sent to HDMI2 of the Anthem and displayed on the little display - not just the Oppo, but the other 2 fully working sources, and whatever else I do in the future. If I wanted direct connections between sources and displays, I wouldn't have the Anthem at all. Your "solution" is sub-optimal at best. I will not settle for that. I bought a 7 thousand dollar pre/pro, I'd like to use the features that I purchased.


-Brian


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23702863
> 
> 
> Alan, thanks, I'm aware of these types of tricks, but you forget that the whole point here is to have switching capability - that is, ANY source should be sent to HDMI2 of the Anthem and displayed on the little display - not just the Oppo, but the other 2 fully working sources, and whatever else I do in the future. If I wanted direct connections between sources and displays, I wouldn't have the Anthem at all. Your "solution" is sub-optimal at best. I will not settle for that. I bought a 7 thousand dollar pre/pro, I'd like to use the features that I purchased.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Brian


Maybe I interpreted incorrectly but I think Alan is suggesting you use the ViewHD in between the Anthem HDmI 2 out and the Xenarc HDMI Input to remove the HDCP. Or maybe between the OPPO HDMI out and the Anthem source HDMI input.

This is not as a direct connection.

It would be worth $25.00 to find out.


This might eliminate the HDMI handshake problem.


Stew


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23703728
> 
> 
> Brian
> 
> 
> Maybe I interpreted incorrectly but I think Alan is suggesting you use the ViewHD in between the Anthem HDmI 2 out and the Xenarc HDMI Input to remove the HDCP. Or maybe between the OPPO HDMI out and the Anthem source HDMI input.
> 
> This is not as a direct connection.
> 
> It would be worth $25.00 to find out.
> 
> 
> This might eliminate the HDMI handshake problem.
> 
> 
> Stew



Interesting. I mis-read Alan's advice there. I have another idea related to this - I just recalled that I use to have a Geffen HDMI Detective or some thing it was called. I used it years ago with a different main TV. Maybe I ought to pull that thing out and reconfigure it for use in between the D2V and the Xenarc. Now, I never really understood what the Geffen device was doing, but I believe it is meant to impersonate the EDID of the device it sits in front of. In this case, I guess it would just impersonate the Xenarc, which I'm not sure that solves anything. Perhaps it should sit somewhere else in the chain, maybe between the Oppo and the D2V, so that it "impersonates" the D2V...hmmmm....since I already have the Geffen device (somewhere, I can dig it out), maybe it makes sense to try this thing first.


Thoughts? Thanks guys.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23704038
> 
> 
> Interesting. I mis-read Alan's advice there. I have another idea related to this - I just recalled that I use to have a Geffen HDMI Detective or some thing it was called. I used it years ago with a different main TV. Maybe I ought to pull that thing out and reconfigure it for use in between the D2V and the Xenarc. Now, I never really understood what the Geffen device was doing, but I believe it is meant to impersonate the EDID of the device it sits in front of. In this case, I guess it would just impersonate the Xenarc, which I'm not sure that solves anything. Perhaps it should sit somewhere else in the chain, maybe between the Oppo and the D2V, so that it "impersonates" the D2V...hmmmm....since I already have the Geffen device (somewhere, I can dig it out), maybe it makes sense to try this thing first.
> 
> 
> Thoughts? Thanks guys.



Brian


Good idea since you already own it. Why not try it.

I think the way the two devices work is diiferent.

The Geffen detective copies EDID of the display device you put on its output and the ViewHD strips out the HDCP of the HDMI signal..


Let us know


Stew


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23703728
> 
> 
> Brian
> 
> 
> Maybe I interpreted incorrectly but I think Alan is suggesting you use the ViewHD in between the Anthem HDmI 2 out and the Xenarc HDMI Input to remove the HDCP. Or maybe between the OPPO HDMI out and the Anthem source HDMI input.
> 
> This is not as a direct connection.
> 
> It would be worth $25.00 to find out.
> 
> 
> This might eliminate the HDMI handshake problem.
> 
> 
> Stew



Yup.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23665111
> 
> 
> But what does it all mean. New batch of mics? New calibration system?
> 
> 
> I didn't read the article yet, just looked at the graphs and you are right, they do look like mine at the top end. His graphs also seemed to be centered around 65db. I don't know if that's because he didn't set the LF and sub to 75db, or if its an anomaly with win8. Again I didn't read the article yet, but plan to soon. Bronco's play tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and its an addiction I need to feed.
> 
> 
> It will be interesting to see ASW's new graphs when he gets a new mic . Good luck with that ASW. Keep us updated, please.
> 
> 
> Tom



So I got my new mic today, and things are MUCH better. Attached are my ARC files with both mics. . Without a doubt, there was something up with my old mic. Thanks Anthem for a quick replacement.


ARC Graphs.pdf is the old mic and 9-5 ARC is the new mic.


Arc graphs.pdf 146k .pdf file
9-5 Arc.pdf 147k .pdf file


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23704492
> 
> 
> Brian
> 
> 
> the ViewHD strips out the HDCP of the HDMI signal.....
> 
> 
> 
> Stew



It does appear to do that. Plus, it adds a free splitter if you need two signals.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23705895
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23665111
> 
> 
> But what does it all mean. New batch of mics? New calibration system?
> 
> 
> I didn't read the article yet, just looked at the graphs and you are right, they do look like mine at the top end. His graphs also seemed to be centered around 65db. I don't know if that's because he didn't set the LF and sub to 75db, or if its an anomaly with win8. Again I didn't read the article yet, but plan to soon. Bronco's play tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and its an addiction I need to feed.
> 
> 
> It will be interesting to see ASW's new graphs when he gets a new mic . Good luck with that ASW. Keep us updated, please.
> 
> 
> Tom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I got my new mic today, and things are MUCH better. Attached are my ARC files with both mics. . Without a doubt, there was something up with my old mic. Thanks Anthem for a quick replacement.
> 
> 
> ARC Graphs.pdf is the old mic and 9-5 ARC is the new mic.
> 
> 
> Arc graphs.pdf 146k .pdf file
> 9-5 Arc.pdf 147k .pdf file
Click to expand...

 

Congrats on your new mic plots which look much better now. I would change my subwoofer setting from Auto to Flat in the Advanced Settings menu to flatten out the frequency response of the subwoofer.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23705914
> 
> 
> It does appear to do that. Plus, it adds a free splitter if you need two signals.



I guess one question would be if it will degrade the signal from the Oppo at all for main viewing, its primary duty...keep in mind there will be 1080p/24 signals and 3D movies etc being played by the Oppo through that splitter if I were to use it. Does this little device pass on the 3D and other 1080p without issue? If not, there's no way I would use it. In general, I like to keep as pure a signal path as possible between components. Let me know when you get a second.


Thanks.

-Brian


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23706489
> 
> 
> I guess one question would be if it will degrade the signal from the Oppo at all for main viewing, its primary duty...keep in mind there will be 1080p/24 signals and 3D movies etc being played by the Oppo through that splitter if I were to use it. Does this little device pass on the 3D and other 1080p without issue? If not, there's no way I would use it. In general, I like to keep as pure a signal path as possible between components. Let me know when you get a second.
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -Brian



I use it on a secondary system (not with my D2), but I do not notice any degradation at all. It is supposed to pass through 3D signals and handles 1080P fine (if you Google it, you will see others report on their experiences with it - it seems to be pretty well known cure for HDCP problems).


I think the biggest plus is that it is $23.99 at a certain large internet retailer, so the risk that it does not do what you want is pretty small relative to the time you may have to spend to cure the problem.


----------



## Texas steve




> yep a huge difference on top end.   so, can you tell a difference in sound?   And how does one qualify for a new mic?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520_40#post_23705895
> 
> 
> 
> So I got my new mic today, and things are MUCH better. Attached are my ARC files with both mics. . Without a doubt, there was something up with my old mic. Thanks Anthem for a quick replacement.
> 
> 
> ARC Graphs.pdf is the old mic and 9-5 ARC is the new mic.
> 
> 
> Arc graphs.pdf 146k .pdf file
> 9-5 Arc.pdf 147k .pdf file


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23706489
> 
> 
> I guess one question would be if it will degrade the signal from the Oppo at all for main viewing, its primary duty...keep in mind there will be 1080p/24 signals and 3D movies etc being played by the Oppo through that splitter if I were to use it. Does this little device pass on the 3D and other 1080p without issue? If not, there's no way I would use it. In general, I like to keep as pure a signal path as possible between components. Let me know when you get a second.
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -Brian



Mind if I butt in here Brian ?


The connection would be made this way.


Anthem HDMI 2 OUT to the ViewHD or your Gefen Detective then to the Xenarc HDMI input


There would be nothing to disturb your OPPO..to Anthem and then to your big display or other input sources


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23706699



I have not spent much time listening to the new setup just yet, so I don't know how much real life impact there is. Anthem sent me a new mic after I emailed them re my prior complaint about the dip at 3khz and higher and told them about good results people on this forum had after getting a new mic. They were pretty good about it.


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23707425
> 
> 
> Mind if I butt in here Brian ?
> 
> 
> The connection would be made this way.
> 
> 
> Anthem HDMI 2 OUT to the ViewHD or your Gefen Detective then to the Xenarc HDMI input
> 
> 
> There would be nothing to disturb your OPPO..to Anthem and then to your big display or other input sources



I guess it will depend where the problem is. If stripping out HDCP between the Xenarc and the Anthem cures the issue, then that would be a great result. I agree that is where I would start.


Also, if signal degradation is a real concern with the ViewHD splitter, there is a supposedly better quality (and much more expensive) solution offered by a company called HDFury.


Alan


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520_40#post_23707927
> 
> 
> 
> I have not spent much time listening to the new setup just yet, so I don't know how much real life impact there is. Anthem sent me a new mic after I emailed them re my prior complaint about the dip at 3khz and higher and told them about good results people on this forum had after getting a new mic. They were pretty good about it.


 

Thanks - let us know if you can hear a difference.


----------



## gerard1meehan

Quick ARC question


What happens when you select Full range crossover?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23710119
> 
> 
> I guess it will depend where the problem is. If stripping out HDCP between the Xenarc and the Anthem cures the issue, then that would be a great result. I agree that is where I would start.
> 
> 
> Also, if signal degradation is a real concern with the ViewHD splitter, there is a supposedly better quality (and much more expensive) solution offered by a company called HDFury.
> 
> 
> Alan



All good points.

There has been no negative reports on the ViewHD and what could it do to the signal going to a 7 inch rack monitor at 640X 480 ? Nothing.


The 7 inch Xenarc monitor's specs


Xenarc


Screen Size: Diagonal 7" (16:9)

Physical Resolution: 800 (H) x 480 (V) WVGA

Supported Resolution: 640 x 480 ~ 1600 x 1200

Dot Resolution: 2400 x 480 = 1,152,000 (dots)

LCD Brightness: 500 cd/m²

Contrast Ratio: 400:1


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23711128
> 
> 
> All good points.
> 
> There has been no negative reports on the ViewHD and what could it do to the signal going to a 7 inch rack monitor at 640X 480 ? Nothing.
> 
> 
> The 7 inch Xenarc monitor's specs
> 
> 
> Xenarc
> 
> 
> Screen Size: Diagonal 7" (16:9)
> 
> Physical Resolution: 800 (H) x 480 (V) WVGA
> 
> Supported Resolution: 640 x 480 ~ 1600 x 1200
> 
> Dot Resolution: 2400 x 480 = 1,152,000 (dots)
> 
> LCD Brightness: 500 cd/m²
> 
> Contrast Ratio: 400:1



I agree that the ViewHD would be more than fine if putting it between the D2 and the Xenarc works. I meant to suggest the HDFury (or their Dr. HDMI) if something had to go between the Oppo and the D2 and signal degradation was a real concern.


For what it is worth, I do not notice any issue with the ViewHD, but it is being used to feed a Tivo into a 26" TV and a Slingbox, so I am not sure I would unless it was really bad.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23711314
> 
> 
> I agree that the ViewHD would be more than fine if putting it between the D2 and the Xenarc works. I meant to suggest the HDFury (or their Dr. HDMI) if something had to go between the Oppo and the D2 and signal degradation was a real concern.
> 
> 
> For what it is worth, I do not notice any issue with the ViewHD, but it is being used to feed a Tivo into a 26" TV and a Slingbox, so I am not sure I would unless it was really bad.



It's Brian's decision now to make.

He says he has a HDMI Detective stored away. It does not strip away DHCP but stores the correct EDID for the display

He should try that first. If he is using the 7" display as a tv monitor he is probably supporting 640 X480.

Not much you could do to that resolution to make it worse.


----------



## Danne2

Have been struggling alot with D2v to get the bass response "correct".


I can adjust and tune a multisub setup to have good reasonably flat curve between 20Hz to 100Hz. This has been measured with a couple of different mic's and REW.

Then when running ARC, ARC shows a bass response that is about 5dB higher at 20Hz to 50Hz (than between 50Hz to 100Hz) so the result of the ARC is FR curve that is damped in the lowest bass, so 20-30Hz is at least 5dB lower than around 80Hz.

This messes up all the good adjustment and tuning I had done before running ARC. Sure I can adjust the FR from the subs after running ARC but that needs to be done then after every time I run ARC, so that's not a possibility. To much work.


I wish I could just run ARC from 100Hz up to 5kHz, since I can create a very good bass curve on my own.

Any advice? could it be a bad ARC mic? getting the response too high at the lowest freq.


----------



## Willie007

Hi

I have a samson 2500w amp, i want to use it for my bass bins, but now you can hear he mids aswell, it doesnt have a setting at the back, just the normal BRIDGED & PARALEL setting.

I have a 2000w Behringer aswell, it has got that place at the back from 1 - 10 where you can choose (On - Off) but i dont know what number must be on or off to put the amp to just bass mode


----------



## Willie007

Hi

I have a samson 2500w amp, i want to use it for my bass bins, but now you can hear he mids aswell, it doesnt have a setting at the back, just the normal BRIDGED & PARALEL setting.

I have a 2000w Behringer aswell, it has got that place at the back from 1 - 10 where you can choose (On - Off) but i dont know what number must be on or off to put the amp to just bass mode


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Danne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23715509
> 
> 
> Have been struggling alot with D2v to get the bass response "correct".
> 
> 
> I can adjust and tune a multisub setup to have good reasonably flat curve between 20Hz to 100Hz. This has been measured with a couple of different mic's and REW.
> 
> Then when running ARC, ARC shows a bass response that is about 5dB higher at 20Hz to 50Hz (than between 50Hz to 100Hz) so the result of the ARC is FR curve that is damped in the lowest bass, so 20-30Hz is at least 5dB lower than around 80Hz.
> 
> This messes up all the good adjustment and tuning I had done before running ARC. Sure I can adjust the FR from the subs after running ARC but that needs to be done then after every time I run ARC, so that's not a possibility. To much work.
> 
> 
> I wish I could just run ARC from 100Hz up to 5kHz, since I can create a very good bass curve on my own.
> 
> Any advice? could it be a bad ARC mic? getting the response too high at the lowest freq.



I think if you research Flat Frequency response for bass you will find there is no ideal Flat freq curve. Most research says a flat response does not sound the best.

They usually call for a slight bass boost and a drop in the upper regions. Apparently this is what ARC is attempting and is correct.

Most important in setting multiple bass units is the phasing and polarity of the units.

You might look up the Audyssey paper that talks about FLAT vs the Audyssey Curve.

Ultimately the best curve is the one that sounds the best to you


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Willie007*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23715540
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> I have a samson 2500w amp, i want to use it for my bass bins, but now you can hear he mids aswell, it doesnt have a setting at the back, just the normal BRIDGED & PARALEL setting.
> 
> I have a 2000w Behringer aswell, it has got that place at the back from 1 - 10 where you can choose (On - Off) but i dont know what number must be on or off to put the amp to just bass mode



Willie007


Welcome to AVS and our forum

Not familiar with either of your amps but are you using a Anthem D2, D2v, AVM 50 etc ?

If so, you should be feeding your bass amps with only the LFE output from the Pre pro.

Maybe give us some more information on your setup


----------



## Ed Weinman

...question re: positioning of ARC


I have Magnepan speakers in front: the left and right are Mag 12s that are positioned aprox. from 8" off the floor rising to aprox. 5 ft (the tweeters run vertically from top to bottom); the center is positioned above the Samsung 61"; the two surrounds (Sunfire) are positioned aprox. 5 ft. from the floor with the one rear positioned aprox. 6" from the floor.


I ran the ARC program as instructed in the manual but I am not sure that I like the results. Would the positions of my speakers possibly need the mic to be positioned higher than my ear hight at the seating position?...(hope this makes sense)...


...thanks, in advance


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23717424
> 
> 
> ...question re: positioning of ARC
> 
> 
> I have Magnepan speakers in front: the left and right are Mag 12s that are positioned aprox. from 8" off the floor rising to aprox. 5 ft (the tweeters run vertically from top to bottom); the center is positioned above the Samsung 61"; the two surrounds (Sunfire) are positioned aprox. 5 ft. from the floor with the one rear positioned aprox. 6" from the floor.
> 
> 
> I ran the ARC program as instructed in the manual but I am not sure that I like the results. Would the positions of my speakers possibly need the mic to be positioned higher than my ear hight at the seating position?...(hope this makes sense)...
> 
> 
> ...thanks, in advance



I'll ultimately defer to the more seasoned ARC experts, but your Maggies have a quasi-ribbon tweeter that runs along the side of the speaker. As such, there's no specific dead-spot location of the tweeter itself. I understand what you're referring to—there's no one "spot" for the tweeter because of the quasi-ribbon vertical design.


Now I've auditioned and had larger experience with the 1.7's as opposed to the 12's just to be clear. But the point of ARC is what the room interactions are like at the listening position--not a foot or half a foot above it. If you don't like the results, it may have more of an issue with the way ARC is interacting with the cabinet-less design, meaning the bipole effect of the Maggies. While that's one of the beautiful things that adds depth and breadth to the soundstage, I've often wondered what the effect on that would be in a room-correction scenario vs. the traditional dynamic speakers. I would suggest also pinging Anthem support about any special tweaks with Maggies in general. So, my point after all that rambling is my hunch would be it's more the dipole effect than the height of the ARC microphone.


One other important question: How far are your Maggies from the rear walls? If they are fairly close to the rear walls, that too may have an impact in addition to the bipole effect.


Finally, I'm sure you've done this, but there is a correct and incorrect placement of the ribbon/tweeter side of the maggies for left and right. Double-check you don't have them inverted.


----------



## Ed Weinman

THXTheater,


...thanks for your reply...the positions of the Maggies are correct and I have also installed sound pads behind them (as well as the center speaker)...and, yes, the ribbon/tweeter sides are correctly on the respective outer sides...


...what concerns me appears to be excessive base...


...as you suggest, I will contact Anthem support...


thanks, again


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The ARC mic should be positioned at seated ear height so that it hears what the ears hear. Point it straight up.


If the axis for treble from your speakers is above that, consider tipping them down (vertical pointing). If that's not feasible then the ARC mic STILL needs to hear what the ears hear.

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman

...thanks, Bob.


...I think I'll try living with the ARC results for a while...


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Danne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23715509
> 
> 
> Have been struggling alot with D2v to get the bass response "correct".
> 
> 
> I can adjust and tune a multisub setup to have good reasonably flat curve between 20Hz to 100Hz. This has been measured with a couple of different mic's and REW.
> 
> Then when running ARC, ARC shows a bass response that is about 5dB higher at 20Hz to 50Hz (than between 50Hz to 100Hz) so the result of the ARC is FR curve that is damped in the lowest bass, so 20-30Hz is at least 5dB lower than around 80Hz.
> 
> This messes up all the good adjustment and tuning I had done before running ARC. Sure I can adjust the FR from the subs after running ARC but that needs to be done then after every time I run ARC, so that's not a possibility. To much work.
> 
> 
> I wish I could just run ARC from 100Hz up to 5kHz, since I can create a very good bass curve on my own.
> 
> Any advice? could it be a bad ARC mic? getting the response too high at the lowest freq.



What's the Room Gain?


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ed,

I just noticed your concern was with excessive bass. It may simply be that you need to get used to what calibrated bass sounds like, but another possibility is that ARC got confused by your room and decided to retain more Room Gain than is needed.


I don't recall your charts and Targets window, but you could try experimenting with a dB or 2 less Room Gain. (Open your existing ARC solution, make the change in Targets, accept that change, re-Calculate, and re-Upload -- no need to re-Measure.)


If your charts show bass peaks that ARC was not able to fully tame, then some repositioning of your speakers/Sub could be in order. The Quick Measure tool in ARC is useful for that.


Also, if you have more than one Subwoofer, make sure your Anthem is set to "1 Sub" anyway. ARC assumes that setting when it calculates the Sub volume trim to Upload.


One last item is to make sure you don't have anything complicated going on in your wiring. The Sub should be fed directly from the Anthem. There should be no wires going between the Sub and the main speakers.


And finally, just to eliminate the obvious. Make sure you have Room EQ set to ON in Setup > Source Setup for each Source, as that's what enables ARC for that Source. And if you are using Analog audio input from any Source you must also use ANALOG-DSP, not ANALOG-DIRECT, to enable ARC.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Danne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23715509
> 
> 
> Have been struggling alot with D2v to get the bass response "correct".
> 
> 
> I can adjust and tune a multisub setup to have good reasonably flat curve between 20Hz to 100Hz. This has been measured with a couple of different mic's and REW.
> 
> Then when running ARC, ARC shows a bass response that is about 5dB higher at 20Hz to 50Hz (than between 50Hz to 100Hz) so the result of the ARC is FR curve that is damped in the lowest bass, so 20-30Hz is at least 5dB lower than around 80Hz.
> 
> This messes up all the good adjustment and tuning I had done before running ARC. Sure I can adjust the FR from the subs after running ARC but that needs to be done then after every time I run ARC, so that's not a possibility. To much work.
> 
> 
> I wish I could just run ARC from 100Hz up to 5kHz, since I can create a very good bass curve on my own.
> 
> Any advice? could it be a bad ARC mic? getting the response too high at the lowest freq.



ARC's charts are an unweighted average of the set of mic positions for each speaker. It sounds like ARC is picking up some Boundary Gain, perhaps at just a couple of the mic positions. Your REW mic might not be picking that up unless you move it around to check how the bass is coupling in various portions of the listening area. (In doing its calculations, ARC uses ALL the mic data, not just the average shown on the charts.)


To check this, use the Quick Measure tool, and move the mic to each of your chosen locations to see how that low frequency response is varying.

--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman

...o.k., Bob


...will do


----------



## thestewman

^


Maggies are a bipolar speaker with the tweeters acting as a line source so there is no beaming of the frequencies.

So adjustment of the ARC mic from the LP should not be necessary.

Being bipolar you do want the rear reflections.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23717582
> 
> 
> THXTheater,
> 
> 
> ...thanks for your reply...the positions of the Maggies are correct and I have also installed sound pads behind them (as well as the center speaker)...and, yes, the ribbon/tweeter sides are correctly on the respective outer sides...
> 
> 
> ...what concerns me appears to be excessive base...
> 
> 
> ...as you suggest, I will contact Anthem support...
> 
> 
> thanks, again



Ed ,


The Maggie 12s only go down to about 45hz or so if I recall. Do you have subs in the mix on this setup?


----------



## Ed Weinman

ThxTheater,


...nope...just 6.0 set-up (the two surround and one back are Sunfire's)


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23717943
> 
> 
> ThxTheater,
> 
> 
> ...nope...just 6.0 set-up (the two surround and one back are Sunfire's)



I was looking (quickly I admit) for your graphs. Did you post them?


----------



## Ed Weinman

Thxtheater,


...sorry...no (simply because I don't know how to post)...


...as an aside, what will happen to the Anthem D2v re: 4k...


----------



## Danne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23717872
> 
> 
> ARC's charts are an unweighted average of the set of mic positions for each speaker. It sounds like ARC is picking up some Boundary Gain, perhaps at just a couple of the mic positions. Your REW mic might not be picking that up unless you move it around to check how the bass is coupling in various portions of the listening area. (In doing its calculations, ARC uses ALL the mic data, not just the average shown on the charts.)
> 
> 
> To check this, use the Quick Measure tool, and move the mic to each of your chosen locations to see how that low frequency response is varying.
> 
> --Bob



You are correct, tested this before I saw this post, and the ARC "strange" results seems to come from the averaging of the 5 mic positions. I tested measuring all 5 measurements in the sweet spot, and the bass response is much better now. I know this is not recommended, and I have not evaluated the result at higher frequencies with this kind of measurement. I will listen to it for a while, and will do some measurments at higher freq. to see how it differs from a normal 5 mic pos. method.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23717845
> 
> 
> What's the Room Gain?
> 
> 
> Cheers



Room Gain typically around 1.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ed Weinman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23717943
> 
> 
> ThxTheater,
> 
> 
> ...nope...just 6.0 set-up (the two surround and one back are Sunfire's)



Ouch, those poor panels! ARC will be trying to boost your bass response by up to 6 dB to fill in what the panels can't reproduce (20 - 45 Hz region). I'm not sure if the resulting bass quality would be pleasing, but certainly not what you are used to hearing and may stress the panels. I strongly suggest getting a sub if you're going to use these speakers for home theater.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Danne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23719363
> 
> 
> Room Gain typically around 1.



So there is plenty of room to increase "room gain" in ARC if you want to bring up the bottom end of the curve.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Danne2,

ARC can't do its job if you bunch the mic positions together like that. It needs the spacing of mic positions to distinguish room response from the inherent output of the speakers.


My point was that if you moved the REW mic around you'd see the same variation that ARC is finding. It's MUCH easier to generate flat response for a single mic location than for a spread over a typical listening area. But since the coupling with the room can vary significantly over distances as small as 12 inches, even if you are only ever going to sit in one spot you'll have problems as you shift your head around in the seat or lean forward.


The genius of ARC is that it broadens the sweet spot.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23719712
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Danne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41550#post_23719363
> 
> 
> Room Gain typically around 1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is plenty of room to increase "room gain" in ARC if you want to bring up the bottom end of the curve.
Click to expand...

His concern, as I understand it, is that ARC is reporting too much output at those frequencies compared to what he thinks is real. And so ARC is "mistakenly" trimming output down there.


What I'm suggesting is that ARCs Measurements are correct due to variant bass coupling at the different mic locations. I.e., ARC is picking up a "real" room response issue and addressing it.


His low Room Gain measurement would be typical of a room with substantial bass treatments (or a larger room). And indeed telling ARC to raise Room Gain a dB or 2 may produce a more pleasing result. But the starting point is to believe that ARC is "doing it right" in the first place so he can trust its results.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23719909
> 
> 
> His concern, as I understand it, is that ARC is reporting too much output at those frequencies compared to what he thinks is real. And so ARC is "mistakenly" trimming output down there.
> 
> 
> What I'm suggesting is that ARCs Measurements are correct due to variant bass coupling at the different mic locations. I.e., ARC is picking up a "real" room response issue and addressing it.
> 
> 
> His low Room Gain measurement would be typical of a room with substantial bass treatments (or a larger room). And indeed telling ARC to raise Room Gain a dB or 2 may produce a more pleasing result. But the starting point is to believe that ARC is "doing it right" in the first place so he can trust its results.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I'm really curious as to what the perceived frequency boost range is. Maggies just don't go very deep. They are by nature and their technology not designed to go low and need a sub to complement them for the lower frequencies. The Maggies he has are probably -3 at 45Hz or so. I'm just curious if we're seeing a true bump in the bass region or elsewhere.


----------



## Danne2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23719909
> 
> 
> His concern, as I understand it, is that ARC is reporting too much output at those frequencies compared to what he thinks is real. And so ARC is "mistakenly" trimming output down there.
> 
> 
> What I'm suggesting is that ARCs Measurements are correct due to variant bass coupling at the different mic locations. I.e., ARC is picking up a "real" room response issue and addressing it.
> 
> 
> His low Room Gain measurement would be typical of a room with substantial bass treatments (or a larger room). And indeed telling ARC to raise Room Gain a dB or 2 may produce a more pleasing result. But the starting point is to believe that ARC is "doing it right" in the first place so he can trust its results.
> 
> --Bob



Yes, I must check further, but it might very well be that ARC is correct. The problem is still the same (too much output below 50Hz) and the reason would then be due to averaging results from other mic positions. But I want it perfect in one position, the multisub setup do perform a decent enough result in other positions anyway. So I have a hard time getting a perfect sweetspot unless I measure all 5 meas. in the same position (in the sweet spot).

Yes, the room is very heavily bass treated (due to concrete cellar).


Increasing ARC gain can be done, but I have also just tried raising the subs a couple of db (XO at 100Hz) which sounds promising. Raising the ARC Room gain will raise the FR much higher up in freqency, think it goes up to 3-400Hz or something like that.


Have not seen any good advice how to think about the ARC Room gain. Will it put a lot of strain on the Fronts Amp, or is (Gain=2) just like raising the volume a couple of dB on the D2v ?

What are considered a normal Room gain from ARC ?

And why did I not even get 1 in Room Gain ? Why is room bass treatment causing that?


Thanks for the help.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23720163
> 
> 
> Bob, I'm really curious as to what the perceived frequency boost range is. Maggies just don't go very deep. They are by nature and their technology not designed to go low and need a sub to complement them for the lower frequencies. The Maggies he has are probably -3 at 45Hz or so. I'm just curious if we're seeing a true bump in the bass region or elsewhere.



You're confusing replies. This one is about the guy with subs, not Maggies.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23720376
> 
> 
> You're confusing replies. This one is about the guy with subs, not Maggies.



LOL! Thanks AVfile!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Danne2*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23720197
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23719909
> 
> 
> His concern, as I understand it, is that ARC is reporting too much output at those frequencies compared to what he thinks is real. And so ARC is "mistakenly" trimming output down there.
> 
> 
> What I'm suggesting is that ARCs Measurements are correct due to variant bass coupling at the different mic locations. I.e., ARC is picking up a "real" room response issue and addressing it.
> 
> 
> His low Room Gain measurement would be typical of a room with substantial bass treatments (or a larger room). And indeed telling ARC to raise Room Gain a dB or 2 may produce a more pleasing result. But the starting point is to believe that ARC is "doing it right" in the first place so he can trust its results.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I must check further, but it might very well be that ARC is correct. The problem is still the same (too much output below 50Hz) and the reason would then be due to averaging results from other mic positions. But I want it perfect in one position, the multisub setup do perform a decent enough result in other positions anyway. So I have a hard time getting a perfect sweetspot unless I measure all 5 meas. in the same position (in the sweet spot).
> 
> Yes, the room is very heavily bass treated (due to concrete cellar).
> 
> 
> Increasing ARC gain can be done, but I have also just tried raising the subs a couple of db (XO at 100Hz) which sounds promising. Raising the ARC Room gain will raise the FR much higher up in freqency, think it goes up to 3-400Hz or something like that.
> 
> 
> Have not seen any good advice how to think about the ARC Room gain. Will it put a lot of strain on the Fronts Amp, or is (Gain=2) just like raising the volume a couple of dB on the D2v ?
> 
> What are considered a normal Room gain from ARC ?
> 
> And why did I not even get 1 in Room Gain ? Why is room bass treatment causing that?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...


Room Gain doesn't go up that high in Frequency. It kicks in around the Crossover region and below. You can see exactly what it is doing by experimenting with the charts. Make a copy of your solutions file so you don't mess up your current stuff by mistake, then open the copy, go into Targets, try a different Room Gain value, accept the change and re-Calculate. No need to re-Measure, and of course don't re-Upload unless you really want that modified solution put in the Anthem. This is quick enough that you can do lots of experimental changes like this in no time at all.


Room Gain will appear as the shallow hump in the Targets curves -- i.e., an increase above the basic volume level of the solution -- at and below the Crossover frequencies. The basic volume level of the solution can be seen in the flat part of the Target curves in the mid-range frequencies to the right of the Crossovers. The Room Gain value is simply the height of the peak of that shallow hump, in dB, over the basic volume level. The effect of Room Gain is exactly what you would expect from the shape of the Target curves.


ARC attempts to Measure the inherent Room Gain in your room and preserve it as a "desirable" room response characteristic, even as it is trying to stamp out all the other room response stuff.


Typical listening rooms have Room Gain in the range of 2-4dB, and folks mixing movie sound tracks tend to assume that. (There is no such consensus among folks mixing music discs, but the general Rule of Thumb is perhaps 1dB less Room Gain is a good fit for those).


Heavily treated rooms (or unusually large rooms) will have lower, inherent Room Gain -- around 1dB is common. And for those, telling ARC to use a somewhat higher Room Gain in its solution (say 2dB or 2.5dB) may produce a more pleasing result -- less like you are in an anechoic chamber. That should also answer your question about why bass treatments reduce Room Gain: Room Gain arises due to interactions between the standing waves in various directions and frequencies. It is part of what produces the impression of being in a "good" listening room as opposed to outdoors or in an anechoic chamber. Bass treatments are designed to make the room MORE like an anechoic chamber, so as to eliminate nasty resonance peaks and cancellation nulls. But that also reduces Room Gain.


ARC can be confused by unusual speaker output so it has limits on what Room Gain values it will use. For example a dip at the wrong place might look like negative Room Gain (which has no useful physical meaning), so ARC won't choose a Room Gain below 0dB. And a pronounced peak at the wrong point can look like excessive Room Gain, so ARC won't choose a Room Gain above 4dB (which shows as a number just slightly less than 4dB for technical reasons). You can, if you wish set a Room Gain value higher than 4dB, but ARC won't do that on its own.


Matching the Measured curves to the selected Target curves -- i.e., applying correction -- also has built in limits. For example, ARC won't create more than +6dB of boost when trying to fill a dip -- to protect the speakers and amps. Raising Room Gain of course makes dips found in that region even deeper, so it is possible to raise Room Gain so much that ARC can no no longer fill in dips completely (given its protection limit).


If you post your charts here, folks will be able to give you additional suggestions. Be sure to post your Targets window with them so folks know what settings built those charts.


But my recommendations WITHOUT seeing the charts would be:


1) Follow the rules for ARC mic positioning: #1 at center seating, alternate left and right of #1 thereafter, keep at least 24" separation between any two mic positions (whether or not sequential), include some forward and back displacement as well as the side to side, point the mic straight up, position the mic tip at seated ear height, and keep the mic tip away from blocking or reflecting surfaces (e.g., raise the mic tip a few inches or move it forward about a foot to get it away from a seat back).


2) If Room Gain still comes in around +1dB, try changing that to +2.5dB


3) Do *NOT* fiddle with any adjustments in the Subs that would alter what ARC would have heard during Measurement. Or if you do, then know that you have to re-Measure from scratch. Changing the output of the Subs doesn't just affect their solution, but also how ARC blends them with the main speakers. So re-Measure if you change any knob settings on the Subs. And don't fiddle with the values ARC Uploads into Setup. Instead, if you need to tweak, do that in the Targets window in the ARC app, and then re-Calculate and re-Upload. NOTE: It is OK to use the "temporary" level adjustments via the buttons found around the arrow keys on the remote -- that would be for personal taste or to deal with some poorly mastered content. Just be sure to reset them for other content.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve


Bob, any update on a new release for the D2v?   Last one had the problem with surrounds.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Nothing that I've heard about.

--Bob


----------



## Danne2

Bob


Did a 9 pos mic measurement, with the sweet spot in the middle, this gave a result similar to what I got in just the sweetspot with REW. Not exactly the same, but close enough.

The big difference with doing like that compared to doing 5 mic meas in only the sweet spot, was above improvment at hight frequencies, the voices were clearly easier to "hear" and was not as muddy, which is as you wrote due to ARC being able to pick up the room response.


Room Gain was set to 0 by ARC, I raised it to 2. But to me it seems like the measured room gain in the ARC graphs are about half to what is in the Target window. I have Room gain=1, then it seems to be 0,5db in the graph, RG=2 gives 1db gain in the ARC graph. I settled with RG=2, and raise the bass a db or two with the remote if necessary.

Also, I don't agree with that Room gain only affects from XO and down, when I zoom in the ARC graphs, I see that the target curve starts to climb at the 350-400Hz area, but the big lift might be lower down.


Another comment I have is about the advice Bob has made earlier about averaging the sub distances to listening position and use that as sub distance in the setup menu. That did not work out for me. Much better was to use the distance to the sub farthest away as sub distance, with delay=0 on that sub. Then as the sub comes closer to listening position, more delay was used on the subs. This was done with measurements and gave the best result.

After all subs was dialed in correctly, the phase in the Setup menu was used to fine tune the right phase for the subs relative the front speakers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Your case is different because you have the ability to apply separate delay to each Subwoofer. I agree with the approach you used when doing that. Most folks with more than one Sub have to use just the single, distance setting in the Anthem to implement one common delay for all their Subs. And average distance works well for that.


In your case, be sure that you do this distance/delay adjustment *BEFORE* you Measure for ARC as any changes you make in that will alter the combined Sub output that ARC hears during Measurement.


At bass frequencies, the Subs are not "localizable", so the distance adjustment (delay setting or time alignment) is not a factor in properly positioning sounds in the surround field (as is the case for the main speakers). However, it does affect the phase relationship between the Subs themselves and also between the Subs and the mains. When you use an average distance, and then adjust each Sub separately in Phase to match the mains, the Phase relationship between the Subs themselves may not be optimal, but ARC will hear that (since it plays all the Subs together) and see it as a variation in the combined Sub output -- which it then corrects. The key to using an average distance setting is that, after setting that, you must now manually adjust each Sub's Phase for best match with the mains -- i.e. one Sub powered at a time and using a built-in Phase control on each Sub in turn. Only then can you do your ARC Measurement since what ARC hears for the combo of Subs is the combined output -- including any such adjustments in Phase relationship between them.


ETA: Also, if you post your charts and Targets window it will be easier for us to help with what you are seeing for Room Gain.

--Bob


----------



## barhoram

what is the latest version of ARC that works with the D2 (not V). I downloaded the version on the Anthem site, but it says it is for D2v..not the D2. I was able to take test measurements with it, but keep getting an error when it tried to upload.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23728471
> 
> 
> what is the latest version of ARC that works with the D2 (not V). I downloaded the version on the Anthem site, but it says it is for D2v..not the D2. I was able to take test measurements with it, but keep getting an error when it tried to upload.



ARC v3.0.2 from the Anthem web site is the correct version for the D2 as well. Your D2 should have firmware v1.33 installed.


Does it begin the Upload and fail part way, or does it fail to Upload at all? If you are also using the RS-232 port for remote control, be sure to set it's settings back to their defaults in Setup while using ARC. The setting regarding echoing input back to the sending device is often the issue. Also check the properties of your serial output on the computer.

--Bob


----------



## barhoram

It gets stuck at around 10%. Stayed there for about an hour until I hit abort.


What should the default settings be set at?


I think I have 1.47 firmware...but I never have had a problem with ARC on it before.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23729272
> 
> 
> It gets stuck at around 10%. Stayed there for about an hour until I hit abort.
> 
> 
> What should the default settings be set at?
> 
> 
> I think I have 1.47 firmware...but I never have had a problem with ARC on it before.



See the picture of that RS-232 settings menu in the Setup menu portion of the Manual.


Firmware v1.47 should work just as well.


Odds are you've got a problem with the serial connection. Is there another computer you can use to do the Upload?

--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Thanks. I got it. Needed to lower baud rate to 9600 and it worked.


I am looking to re-position my sub (Velodyne DD15) from the front stage wall to somewhere more towards the back of the theater. I have a spot to the right of the back row next to the wall that I am trying. Here is the response that I get when I move it to this location:

 [IMG



How does it compare to the original location?

 [IMG


----------



## TKO1

Does anyone have any information related to the new (and improved?) version of ARC, the ARC M1, that is been detailed as a specification for the new MRX 310, 510, and 710 AVRs supposed to be released today and shipping in October?


Cheers.


----------



## Thxtheater

F


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23731079
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any information related to the new (and improved?) version of ARC, the ARC M1, that is been detailed as a specification for the new MRX 310, 510, and 710 AVRs supposed to be released today and shipping in October?
> 
> 
> Cheers.



Forgive my ignorance on this but the M1 was Anthem's amp, wasn't it? I'd be very interested to know about any forthcoming revisions to ARC.


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23731397
> 
> 
> F
> 
> Forgive my ignorance on this but the M1 was Anthem's amp, wasn't it? I'd be very interested to know about any forthcoming revisions to ARC.



Interesting tidbit is available here: CEDIA 2013 VIP Edition 


Cheers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23730996
> 
> 
> Thanks. I got it. Needed to lower baud rate to 9600 and it worked.
> 
> 
> I am looking to re-position my sub (Velodyne DD15) from the front stage wall to somewhere more towards the back of the theater. I have a spot to the right of the back row next to the wall that I am trying. Here is the response that I get when I move it to this location: . . . .



Neither position looks great. Your original position is showing excessive Boundary Gain, leading to the high output as you get down to 20Hz. So repositioning the Sub makes sense. But the new position shows even worse results, with dramatic roll of in the lowest bass.


I suspect that in the course of moving the Velodyne you ended up using the wrong settings in it. You unplugged it of course, and it may be that you still have it set to default to one of the more restricted output curves as its default on power up.


Go into the Velodyne's setup page and check which settings are in effect. You want to pick the setting that disables its built-in parametric EQ (choice 6 as I recall). And in there you also want to make sure its built-in crossover processing is disabled. It's been a while, but my recollection was that you set the cursor on the crossover value in the upper left of the table for setting such stuff and then press Reset on the Velodyne's remote. If you've done it right ALL of the crossover related values should change to "N/A". Check the Velodyne manual. If you alter any settings in the Velodyne you will, of course, have to re-Measure for ARC.


While you are at it, make sure it's choice of power on settings and power on volume are set correctly, so that you don't get screwy results from the Sub after a power failure. Double check that by unplugging the Velodyne and making sure it comes back up with the desired settings once you plug it back in. Note that the settings table choice and volume choice that you can make on its "home page" are *NOT* remembered across power cycles. The power up defaults need to be set on its settings page.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23731079
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any information related to the new (and improved?) version of ARC, the ARC M1, that is been detailed as a specification for the new MRX 310, 510, and 710 AVRs supposed to be released today and shipping in October?
> 
> 
> Cheers.


I'm guessing, and I do mean guessing it is a user interface refresh and USB/Ethernet support. They would also need to update for the new improved processors in the receivers. I kind of doubt any of the improvements other then possibly the user interface will make it to the pre-pros but I'd wouldn't mind being surprised by a performance improvement. Sure would be nice if some of the hardware improvements trickle up to the pre-pros. Multiple subwoofer channels, 4K video, IP control and USB are all on my upgrade list.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41520#post_23702260
> 
> 
> Brian,
> 
> 
> If your issues are resulting from HDCP copy protection problems as Bob suggested a while back, the following may help. One way potentially to "cure" HDCP issues is with a ViewHD 2 port 1x2 powered mini HDMI splitter. If you put this little $24 device between your Oppo and your D2v, it might work around your issue if it is in fact a HDCP copy protection issue. For what it is worth, I have a Slingbox 500 that got HDCP errors on most channels when I used the Slingbox's HDMI connection (Sling usually suggests connecting the Slingbox bothe with HDMI and component connections to deal with HDCP issues). I used this extremely small ViewHD splitter to split my HDMI out from a Tivo Roamio to my Sling and my TV and voila, no more HDCP problems -- the Sling now works on all channels at all times using just its HDMI connection. Just a thought.
> 
> 
> Alan



Alan, Stew, Tom and others:


So, my saga is seemingly over on the whole "HDMI2 output from D2V to 7inch rack monitor" issue - the Cliff's Notes version is that I now have things working, thanks to my HDMI Detective Plus from Gefen. Here's the long story for anyone interested in my perfectly good waste of the better part of 4 days:


I tried many many things, so many I won't recount all of them - but I did purchase the ViewHD Mini and actually one of their slightly larger boxes, and neither one of them did the trick. I used them between the D2V and the little Xenarc monitor, they did nothing to fix the problem. I then tried them one at a time, between the D2V and the Main Sharp display, and still nothing. Then I dug around the basement for hours and found the HDMI Detective Plus. After testing many other things to make sure I isolated the symptoms accurately and provded "repeatable failure", I then placed the HDMI Detective Plus between the D2V and the Main big-boy Sharp display, at the Sharp end of course, and programmed the Sharp Elite's EDID to it. Then I connected everything and did hours of testing different power on sequences, video outputs, etc. In short, the HDMI Detective Plus is working to allow me to power off the Main Sharp display and simply use the little Xenarc, with ALL sources (Oppo included!).


I believe the reason it is working is that even with the Main Display powered off, the HDMI Detective is answering the request for an EDID that is coming from the D2V - in fact, it's "tricking" the D2V into thinking there is an active display connected. When the D2V sees that, it stops trying to "negotiate" the HDMI handshake, and it simply sends the signal to both outputs. Of course, HDMI1 out is off, but HDMI2 is on and it shows the display just fine on the little 7 inch Xenarc. So, the question might also be asked "why didn't the ViewHD devices do anything in this case?"....I believe it is because my issues were not with HDCP per se, but only with the EDID situation. The ViewHD's don't do ANYTHING for EDID.


By the way, though I now have this working, and have verified EVERY video source works with it, including DVD's, Bluray's, AppleTV, DirecTV Tivo, OTA Series 3 Tivo, etc., I do have 1 "gotcha" that I cannot get rid of. The issue is with 3D sources. [Recall that I do indeed have the 3D Upgrade board in my D2V]. The HDMI Detective Plus will pass the 3D signal just fine, actually watched Avatar in 3D through the thing for hours on the Main Display (of course the little guy shuts off when in "Through" mode like this, I don't need it anyway for such things). HOWEVER! I have to manually switch one of the Dip switches on the HDMI Detective Plus before powering on the main TV in order for 3D viewing to work. The dip switch I have to toggle corresponds to the "HDCP Passthrough" option on the HDMI Detective Plus. For ALL other viewing of every other source and normal Blurays (not 3D), DVD's, everything, the switch for PassThrough should NOT be engaged. So, 95% of the time, I can just leave it in the standard position. But when using the "Through" mode (what I call my Blu-3D virtual input on the D2V), the main TV will not work at all if I don't engage HDCP PassThrough on the HDMI Detective Plus. And the evil little thing is that you cannot fix it while the TV is still on. It won't actually change anything until you powercycle the TV. So, thinking in terms of the end goal here with my fancy shmancy MX-5000 URC remote, I will need to build a Macro for the "Watch 3D Bluray" activity, such that it peforms an "If/Else" sequence where it checks the power on the TV, and if it's currently OFF, it just proceeds normally to power the right things on in order of course like always and do the normal routines. But if the TV is currently ON, the macro needs to do something like this:


Power off the TV (discrete)

Power off the D2V Main Zone (discrete)

Immediately display a reminder on the MX-5000, or play a .wav file of me saying something like "Remember to get off your ass and go flip the 4th dip switch on the HDMI Detective Plus while I pause this Macro for you."

Pause the macro with a 1 minute Delay (yes I'm slow walking 12 feet to the display)

Power On the TV (discrete)

Power On the D2V Main Zone (discrete)

Switch to "Blu-3D" input

Delay for 10 seconds

Power on the Oppo 95 (discrete)

Play...


Something like that...so, the saga is at a point where I've troubleshot it to death - Oppo still has a case opened and will be pursuing a fix if they can find one, but again, I'm not holding my breath and I need to move on with my URC programming now - have much to do there. While I was at it, and everything was pulled out, I took the opportunity to upgrade my PS Audio PWD to the Mark II board and all...been sitting on that for 2 years! Just got things back together and man do I like the new sound - I had to sit back and listen to some tunes and remember why the hell it is I put up with this crazy hobby 


I'll hold on to the ViewHD boxes, just in case someday I need them for another situation - call it karma, cause if I hadn't done the same years ago with the HDMI Detective Plus, I wouldn't have solved this one. It's a band-aid solution, no doubt, but I can't wait around for Anthem or Oppo or whomever to fix the root issue. I suspect even if they do, it is ripe to get screwed up again somewhere down the line.


Cheers gents! And thanks again to all who helped me wrap my feable brain around this one.

-Brian


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23731492
> 
> 
> Neither position looks great. Your original position is showing excessive Boundary Gain, leading to the high output as you get down to 20Hz. So repositioning the Sub makes sense. But the new position shows even worse results, with dramatic roll of in the lowest bass.
> 
> 
> I suspect that in the course of moving the Velodyne you ended up using the wrong settings in it. You unplugged it of course, and it may be that you still have it set to default to one of the more restricted output curves as its default on power up.
> 
> 
> Go into the Velodyne's setup page and check which settings are in effect. You want to pick the setting that disables its built-in parametric EQ (choice 6 as I recall). And in there you also want to make sure its built-in crossover processing is disabled. It's been a while, but my recollection was that you set the cursor on the crossover value in the upper left of the table for setting such stuff and then press Reset on the Velodyne's remote. If you've done it right ALL of the crossover related values should change to "N/A". Check the Velodyne manual. If you alter any settings in the Velodyne you will, of course, have to re-Measure for ARC.
> 
> 
> While you are at it, make sure it's choice of power on settings and power on volume are set correctly, so that you don't get screwy results from the Sub after a power failure. Double check that by unplugging the Velodyne and making sure it comes back up with the desired settings once you plug it back in. Note that the settings table choice and volume choice that you can make on its "home page" are *NOT* remembered across power cycles. The power up defaults need to be set on its settings page.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


Thanks for the detailed response. I did check the Velodyne settings, and they have not changed with unplugging. Preset is set to 6, and all of the lowpass frequency and slope settings are set to Off. Any other thoughts?

Could I perhaps use the Velodyne to boost the low frequency that has the dramatic roll off?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It still looks to me like something screwy is going on in the Velodyne settings, but if you can't find it, then I suggest you try shifting the position of the Sub -- even rotating it in place, while using he Quick Measure tool to see what's going on with its low bass output. The DD15 is able to do MUCH better in low bass -- without any special boost settings -- then your new chart shows.

--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Here is the Velodyne setup..see anything that looks out of whack? It may be positioning...hope it is not, because with the theater layout, there are only a few spots that the DD15 can fit. I moved it out of the front corner mainly for aesthetics. It's positioned between the riser and right wall now..slightly behind the second row of seats. Totally out of the way..but I do want it to sound good.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ That looks fine to me. I recommend using Theater/Music level 8 in Setup 6 (i.e., maximum Servo) for highest accuracy and musicality at the expense of somewhat lower peak output levels. But as you've discovered, getting lots of output from the DD15 is not a problem.


I can't explain your Measured results in the new position. You should definitely try Quick Measure and some modest repositioning to see if you can correct that problem in the low bass output. At those frequencies, even inches matter. Indeed, just try rotating it in place first. But as things stand now you've lost at least an octave off the bottom of its bass response.


ETA: On the home page for the Velodyne, double check that it really does have Setup 6 selected at that default Volume. I'm thinking that maybe you accidentally hit the button to change to a different Setup AFTER it powered up.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TKO1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23731435
> 
> 
> Interesting tidbit is available here: CEDIA 2013 VIP Edition
> 
> 
> Cheers.



Superlative. and thanks for sharing that! The 1 and M were inverted so the new system will be called ARC 1M. Look forward to learning more about it. I'm assuming first question will be--will this be a retro-fit to existing D2v/50v users and if I'm inferring this correctly, it would be a "no" as it's relying on ethernet connectivity?


----------



## Kris Deering

The new ARC stuff is for the new receivers and includes ethernet/usb and a more colorful UI. Processing is improved with new MRX compared to old (more DSP power) but still not as high as what you'd get from the D2V/AVM editions.


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23732411
> 
> 
> ^ That looks fine to me. I recommend using Theater/Music level 8 in Setup 6 (i.e., maximum Servo) for highest accuracy and musicality at the expense of somewhat lower peak output levels. But as you've discovered, getting lots of output from the DD15 is not a problem.
> 
> 
> I can't explain your Measured results in the new position. You should definitely try Quick Measure and some modest repositioning to see if you can correct that problem in the low bass output. At those frequencies, even inches matter. Indeed, just try rotating it in place first. But as things stand now you've lost at least an octave off the bottom of its bass response.
> 
> 
> ETA: On the home page for the Velodyne, double check that it really does have Setup 6 selected at that default Volume. I'm thinking that maybe you accidentally hit the button to change to a different Setup AFTER it powered up.
> 
> --Bob




It appears that one of the 2 RCA cables in the back was loose. After I reconnected it, I get this using quick measure. Looks a little better? Will ARC be able to make this flatter once It does it calculations, or is it still a poor response?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yeah that looks a lot better. There will be natural variation between the mic positions that should tend to flatten the Measured curve even more (just an artifact of the averaging). Your prior Measured curve had a roll off of over -20dB going down to 20Hz, and this chart has no more than about -10dB.


Anyway, there's one sure way to tell. Go Measure!


If you want to do a quicker pass just to check, set Music Same As Movie, and tell ARC you only have 2.1 speakers. That will be enough to see the Sub results in the charts. If that looks good, you can go back and do a full pass with all the speakers.

--Bob


----------



## ASW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23731749
> 
> 
> Alan, Stew, Tom and others:
> 
> 
> So, my saga is seemingly over on the whole "HDMI2 output from D2V to 7inch rack monitor" issue - the Cliff's Notes version is that I now have things working, thanks to my HDMI Detective Plus from Gefen. Here's the long story for anyone interested in my perfectly good waste of the better part of 4 days:
> 
> 
> I tried many many things, so many I won't recount all of them - but I did purchase the ViewHD Mini and actually one of their slightly larger boxes, and neither one of them did the trick. I used them between the D2V and the little Xenarc monitor, they did nothing to fix the problem. I then tried them one at a time, between the D2V and the Main Sharp display, and still nothing. Then I dug around the basement for hours and found the HDMI Detective Plus. After testing many other things to make sure I isolated the symptoms accurately and provded "repeatable failure", I then placed the HDMI Detective Plus between the D2V and the Main big-boy Sharp display, at the Sharp end of course, and programmed the Sharp Elite's EDID to it. Then I connected everything and did hours of testing different power on sequences, video outputs, etc. In short, the HDMI Detective Plus is working to allow me to power off the Main Sharp display and simply use the little Xenarc, with ALL sources (Oppo included!).
> 
> 
> I believe the reason it is working is that even with the Main Display powered off, the HDMI Detective is answering the request for an EDID that is coming from the D2V - in fact, it's "tricking" the D2V into thinking there is an active display connected. When the D2V sees that, it stops trying to "negotiate" the HDMI handshake, and it simply sends the signal to both outputs. Of course, HDMI1 out is off, but HDMI2 is on and it shows the display just fine on the little 7 inch Xenarc. So, the question might also be asked "why didn't the ViewHD devices do anything in this case?"....I believe it is because my issues were not with HDCP per se, but only with the EDID situation. The ViewHD's don't do ANYTHING for EDID.
> 
> 
> By the way, though I now have this working, and have verified EVERY video source works with it, including DVD's, Bluray's, AppleTV, DirecTV Tivo, OTA Series 3 Tivo, etc., I do have 1 "gotcha" that I cannot get rid of. The issue is with 3D sources. [Recall that I do indeed have the 3D Upgrade board in my D2V]. The HDMI Detective Plus will pass the 3D signal just fine, actually watched Avatar in 3D through the thing for hours on the Main Display (of course the little guy shuts off when in "Through" mode like this, I don't need it anyway for such things). HOWEVER! I have to manually switch one of the Dip switches on the HDMI Detective Plus before powering on the main TV in order for 3D viewing to work. The dip switch I have to toggle corresponds to the "HDCP Passthrough" option on the HDMI Detective Plus. For ALL other viewing of every other source and normal Blurays (not 3D), DVD's, everything, the switch for PassThrough should NOT be engaged. So, 95% of the time, I can just leave it in the standard position. But when using the "Through" mode (what I call my Blu-3D virtual input on the D2V), the main TV will not work at all if I don't engage HDCP PassThrough on the HDMI Detective Plus. And the evil little thing is that you cannot fix it while the TV is still on. It won't actually change anything until you powercycle the TV. So, thinking in terms of the end goal here with my fancy shmancy MX-5000 URC remote, I will need to build a Macro for the "Watch 3D Bluray" activity, such that it peforms an "If/Else" sequence where it checks the power on the TV, and if it's currently OFF, it just proceeds normally to power the right things on in order of course like always and do the normal routines. But if the TV is currently ON, the macro needs to do something like this:
> 
> 
> Power off the TV (discrete)
> 
> Power off the D2V Main Zone (discrete)
> 
> Immediately display a reminder on the MX-5000, or play a .wav file of me saying something like "Remember to get off your ass and go flip the 4th dip switch on the HDMI Detective Plus while I pause this Macro for you."
> 
> Pause the macro with a 1 minute Delay (yes I'm slow walking 12 feet to the display)
> 
> Power On the TV (discrete)
> 
> Power On the D2V Main Zone (discrete)
> 
> Switch to "Blu-3D" input
> 
> Delay for 10 seconds
> 
> Power on the Oppo 95 (discrete)
> 
> Play...
> 
> 
> Something like that...so, the saga is at a point where I've troubleshot it to death - Oppo still has a case opened and will be pursuing a fix if they can find one, but again, I'm not holding my breath and I need to move on with my URC programming now - have much to do there. While I was at it, and everything was pulled out, I took the opportunity to upgrade my PS Audio PWD to the Mark II board and all...been sitting on that for 2 years! Just got things back together and man do I like the new sound - I had to sit back and listen to some tunes and remember why the hell it is I put up with this crazy hobby
> 
> 
> I'll hold on to the ViewHD boxes, just in case someday I need them for another situation - call it karma, cause if I hadn't done the same years ago with the HDMI Detective Plus, I wouldn't have solved this one. It's a band-aid solution, no doubt, but I can't wait around for Anthem or Oppo or whomever to fix the root issue. I suspect even if they do, it is ripe to get screwed up again somewhere down the line.
> 
> 
> Cheers gents! And thanks again to all who helped me wrap my feable brain around this one.
> 
> -Brian



Congrats Brian (even though the ViewHD boxes didn't work, I am glad they reminded you that you had the HDMI Detective). This is just another example of how consumer friendly all this copy protection is (it will really kill my whole-house system over time, since the heart of my video distribution system is an AVATrix AVM-562, which distributes component video over Cat-5). I wonder if some of ViewHD's boxes don't include the magic HDCP stripping trick. On my Tivo/Sling setup, it is definitely stripping HDCP from the signal and allowing my Sling to work with a single HDMI cable (where without it, I got HDCP "not authorized" errors on virtually every channel).


BTW, if the dip-switch issue eventually gets annoying (and if you feel like putting even more time and money into the issue), you might contact HDFury and see if their Dr. HDMI would do the trick (it seems to work like the HDMI Detective, but is a little newer). Copied below is the description of the $99 Dr. HDMI (its a lot for a dip switch, but ...) BTW, if anyone has used the HDFury 4 (3D), I would love to hear about it. I am thinking of getting it to add 3D to my Circa 2006 Panasonic 65PX600U, but at $400 (plus the $500 and time necessary to upgrade my D2v to 3D), I would like to get a little feedback from someone who has used it with a quality set-up.


Here goes on the Dr. HDMI --



Dr HDMI can help to solve most HDMI issues such as handshaking issue, compatibility issue and/or any EDID related issue. It help to keep a source always ON or tricked into a defined state which is especially useful for system integrators.


Dr HDMI can also boost signal integrity and extend +5v signal through a HDMI/DVI-D chain. For example, it can work hands in hands with HDfury products such as Gamer Edition to extend compatibility range. It can also be used to limit the source output resolution.


Dr HDMI acts as an EDID manager, HDMI/DVI-D emulator and repeater that comes with pre-defined presets, user programmable banks, Sink EDID sniffing bank and more !


Features


•Solve Most HDMI issues !

•Fix HDMI handshaking issue

•EDID Manager and Detective feature

•Easy EDID table manipulation via USB port

•HDMI/DVI-D emulator and repeater

•Maintain 2K, 1920×1200, 1080p video without losing sync.

•Predefined Banks (FullHD 3D, FullHD, 1080i, 720p, etc..)

•User programmable EDID Banks

•Sink EDID sniffing feature

•Extand signal integrity up to 50 meters !

•Can work standalone without any PSU connected (taking power from HDMI)

•HDCP compliant


Specifications


•HDMI 1.4a compliance

•8 EDID banks (5 pre-defined, 2 user programable, 1 copy from Sink device)

•Reset HPD-event on the fly !

•Up to 50 meters cable loss compensation

•Keep source’s HDMI/DVI-D output active

•USB upgradable and flashable from computer

•User programmable EDID Banks

•Sink EDID sniffing feature

•Extand signal integrity up to 50 meters !

•HDMI Pin14 on/off siwtch to fix HEAC/ARC compatibility issue

•Any resolution including HDMI standards

•Video Bandwidth : 2.25 Gbps

•Video support: Single-link 225Mhz, 2k, WUXGA, 1080p60/12bit deep color and x.v.color

•Audio support: Dolby True HD & DTS Master Audio

•Input cable equalization

•Support extended EDID CEA861, 256 byte

•HDCP Pass-Through

•Lip Sync Pass-Through

•CEC Protocol Pass-Through

•Power : Universal USB power adaptor

•Compliance: HDCP/FCC/CE

•Warranty : 1 year (extendable)

•Dimension : 60mm W x 40mm D x 20mm H

•Net weight : 50 gramms

•Input/Output connector: HDMI female

•USB: Mini USB-B female connector


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23732977
> 
> 
> The new ARC stuff is for the new receivers and includes ethernet/usb and a more colorful UI. Processing is improved with new MRX compared to old (more DSP power) but still not as high as what you'd get from the D2V/AVM editions.



Kris that's a great clarification. I'm assuming you'll be snagging one for review sometime soon? If so, look forward to hearing your opinions on the new receivers.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41610#post_23733373
> 
> 
> Kris that's a great clarification. I'm assuming you'll be snagging one for review sometime soon? If so, look forward to hearing your opinions on the new receivers.



Good to hear Brian is happy with the way his setup is working .

After reading his run down on how his setup works and considering this is mainly centered on his using the 3D format in THROUGH OUTPUT COMFIG I have a question that

I have asked before but never received an answer.


My Anthem D2v is the 3D model. I watch 3D video using copied 3D blu rays played from a PopCorn Hour. The file format used is usually M2TS.

I also use my Comcast Motorola DVR and my Sony XBR smart tv to stream and view 3D video.


My Sony XBR 3D system is passive and the 3D format can be Top / Bottom or Side by Side using passive glasses.


My question is this.


For all the above sources the Video Configuration OUT is set as HDMI not THROUGH and the 3D works perfectly

I find no difference if I set the Video Config Out to THROUGH other than I lose HDMI2 out and most importantly the OS display.


So can someone explain what the video config THROUGH does and any advantages now that we have it ?


----------



## obie_fl

Top/Bottom or Side X Side 3D work fine with regular HDMI thus you don't have to set Through mode. Stacked 3D i.e. Blurays need Through mode. Apparently your BD M2TS files were converted to Top/Bottom or Side X Side when ripped.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ASW*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41610#post_23733347
> 
> 
> Congrats Brian (even though the ViewHD boxes didn't work, I am glad they reminded you that you had the HDMI Detective). This is just another example of how consumer friendly all this copy protection is (it will really kill my whole-house system over time, since the heart of my video distribution system is an AVATrix AVM-562, which distributes component video over Cat-5). I wonder if some of ViewHD's boxes don't include the magic HDCP stripping trick. On my Tivo/Sling setup, it is definitely stripping HDCP from the signal and allowing my Sling to work with a single HDMI cable (where without it, I got HDCP "not authorized" errors on virtually every channel).
> 
> 
> BTW, if the dip-switch issue eventually gets annoying (and if you feel like putting even more time and money into the issue), you might contact HDFury and see if their Dr. HDMI would do the trick (it seems to work like the HDMI Detective, but is a little newer). Copied below is the description of the $99 Dr. HDMI (its a lot for a dip switch, but ...) BTW, if anyone has used the HDFury 4 (3D), I would love to hear about it. I am thinking of getting it to add 3D to my Circa 2006 Panasonic 65PX600U, but at $400 (plus the $500 and time necessary to upgrade my D2v to 3D), I would like to get a little feedback from someone who has used it with a quality set-up.
> 
> 
> Here goes on the Dr. HDMI --
> 
> 
> 
> Dr HDMI can help to solve most HDMI issues such as handshaking issue, compatibility issue and/or any EDID related issue. It help to keep a source always ON or tricked into a defined state which is especially useful for system integrators.
> 
> 
> Dr HDMI can also boost signal integrity and extend +5v signal through a HDMI/DVI-D chain. For example, it can work hands in hands with HDfury products such as Gamer Edition to extend compatibility range. It can also be used to limit the source output resolution.
> 
> 
> Dr HDMI acts as an EDID manager, HDMI/DVI-D emulator and repeater that comes with pre-defined presets, user programmable banks, Sink EDID sniffing bank and more !
> 
> 
> Features
> 
> 
> •Solve Most HDMI issues !
> 
> •Fix HDMI handshaking issue
> 
> •EDID Manager and Detective feature
> 
> •Easy EDID table manipulation via USB port
> 
> •HDMI/DVI-D emulator and repeater
> 
> •Maintain 2K, 1920×1200, 1080p video without losing sync.
> 
> •Predefined Banks (FullHD 3D, FullHD, 1080i, 720p, etc..)
> 
> •User programmable EDID Banks
> 
> •Sink EDID sniffing feature
> 
> •Extand signal integrity up to 50 meters !
> 
> •Can work standalone without any PSU connected (taking power from HDMI)
> 
> •HDCP compliant
> 
> 
> Specifications
> 
> 
> •HDMI 1.4a compliance
> 
> •8 EDID banks (5 pre-defined, 2 user programable, 1 copy from Sink device)
> 
> •Reset HPD-event on the fly !
> 
> •Up to 50 meters cable loss compensation
> 
> •Keep source’s HDMI/DVI-D output active
> 
> •USB upgradable and flashable from computer
> 
> •User programmable EDID Banks
> 
> •Sink EDID sniffing feature
> 
> •Extand signal integrity up to 50 meters !
> 
> •HDMI Pin14 on/off siwtch to fix HEAC/ARC compatibility issue
> 
> •Any resolution including HDMI standards
> 
> •Video Bandwidth : 2.25 Gbps
> 
> •Video support: Single-link 225Mhz, 2k, WUXGA, 1080p60/12bit deep color and x.v.color
> 
> •Audio support: Dolby True HD & DTS Master Audio
> 
> •Input cable equalization
> 
> •Support extended EDID CEA861, 256 byte
> 
> •HDCP Pass-Through
> 
> •Lip Sync Pass-Through
> 
> •CEC Protocol Pass-Through
> 
> •Power : Universal USB power adaptor
> 
> •Compliance: HDCP/FCC/CE
> 
> •Warranty : 1 year (extendable)
> 
> •Dimension : 60mm W x 40mm D x 20mm H
> 
> •Net weight : 50 gramms
> 
> •Input/Output connector: HDMI female
> 
> •USB: Mini USB-B female connector



I'd be darn curious about this HDMI Dr. Product. I'm convinced that my LCD TV and Anthem don't like each other. I've purchased and swapped out so many new HDMI cables that I could compete against Blue Jeans and Monoprice.


I still occasionally get no video to my display (but audio through the Anthem fine) or no audio and no video. Turning off the TV and then on again or doing the same with the Anthem works every time. I have an HDMI cable integrity tester and my cables pass every time.


So in curious if I could put this between the LCD TV and the Anthem to knock out the remaining HDMI gremlins.


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23732630
> 
> 
> Superlative. and thanks for sharing that! The 1 and M were inverted so the new system will be called ARC 1M. Look forward to learning more about it. I'm assuming first question will be--will this be a retro-fit to existing D2v/50v users and if I'm inferring this correctly, it would be a "no" as it's relying on ethernet connectivity?



My bad. Probably explains why my google search for M1 didn't provide anything useful in terms of ARC










Cheers.


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23732977
> 
> 
> The new ARC stuff is for the new receivers and includes ethernet/usb and a more colorful UI. Processing is improved with new MRX compared to old (more DSP power) but still not as high as what you'd get from the D2V/AVM editions.



Thanks Kris,


Cheers.


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41610#post_23733338
> 
> 
> ^ Yeah that looks a lot better. There will be natural variation between the mic positions that should tend to flatten the Measured curve even more (just an artifact of the averaging). Your prior Measured curve had a roll off of over -20dB going down to 20Hz, and this chart has no more than about -10dB.
> 
> 
> Anyway, there's one sure way to tell. Go Measure!
> 
> 
> If you want to do a quicker pass just to check, set Music Same As Movie, and tell ARC you only have 2.1 speakers. That will be enough to see the Sub results in the charts. If that looks good, you can go back and do a full pass with all the speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Here are the measurement and targets of the sub in it's new position.....would that be considered acceptable? or is it lacking in some aspect?


----------



## cvinfig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41610#post_23733612
> 
> 
> I'd be darn curious about this HDMI Dr. Product. I'm convinced that my LCD TV and Anthem don't like each other. I've purchased and swapped out so many new HDMI cables that I could compete against Blue Jeans and Monoprice.
> 
> 
> I still occasionally get no video to my display (but audio through the Anthem fine) or no audio and no video. Turning off the TV and then on again or doing the same with the Anthem works every time. I have an HDMI cable integrity tester and my cables pass every time.
> 
> 
> So in curious if I could put this between the LCD TV and the Anthem to knock out the remaining HDMI gremlins.



I was having all sorts of issues between my Anthem and projector and the Dr. HDMI has pretty much eliminated them. Every once in a while I'll still have a short video drop-out but it comes back in a couple of seconds and audio continues to play. Before, I'd lose both audio and video and it could take over a minute to re-established the handshake. I tried an HDMI booster from Blue Jeans before getting the Dr. HDMI but it didn't help at all...


----------



## barhoram

One more thing...if I check "flat" under the Advanced setting in Targets, the response looks like it may be a bit better....any downside of choosing Flat?


----------



## barhoram

here is the final measurement with "flat" setting for the sub in it's new location.....any comments/suggestions welcome.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes, the Flat result for the Sub looks better.


I'd also try pushing the Sub cutoff up to 120Hz, and possibly lowering Room Gain a bit -- say to 3.5 or even 3.0.


Also, since you moved the Sub, be sure to recheck your choices for Polarity and Phase. With only one Sub you can correct those without having to re-Measure for ARC.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41580#post_23732977
> 
> 
> Processing is improved with new MRX compared to old (more DSP power) but still not as high as what you'd get from the D2V/AVM editions.



Thanks. I thought they might be able to bring the MRX processing power up to match the D2V/AVM but was not expecting there be anything to make us jealous


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41610#post_23734529
> 
> 
> here is the final measurement with "flat" setting for the sub in it's new location.....any comments/suggestions welcome.



Your sub curve and targets window look very similar to mine. So they must be good










By the way, I have a big old Mirage sub that was designed before the days of digital preamps, so it has a non-defeatable LPF. It wasn't designed to go higher than 100 Hz so my bass starts to roll off rapidly (-5dB at 100 Hz like yours) no matter what ARC tries to do. Ultimately, we might be missing some LFE in the 120Hz region but I do not notice a "problem" when watching movies... Just something to keep in mind as an area for improvement when I shop for a new sub.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

25K. Gosh!

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Wow, Bob. I thought you just hit 20K posts a little while ago! Do you go through keyboards much?


----------



## obie_fl

Woo Whoo for Bob!!!


The Anthem and Oppo folks owe you a ton of gratitude.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cvinfig*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41610#post_23734254
> 
> 
> I was having all sorts of issues between my Anthem and projector and the Dr. HDMI has pretty much eliminated them. Every once in a while I'll still have a short video drop-out but it comes back in a couple of seconds and audio continues to play. Before, I'd lose both audio and video and it could take over a minute to re-established the handshake. I tried an HDMI booster from Blue Jeans before getting the Dr. HDMI but it didn't help at all...



That's very helpful indeed. I'm trying to make the TV last until it dies. Any suggestions or advice on the unit using it with te Anthem? Is it plug and play or any settings, etc? I'm very interested in this solution.


In my situation if I don't have video or don't have both audio and video ill never get it back.


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41610#post_23734680
> 
> 
> ^ Yes, the Flat result for the Sub looks better.
> 
> 
> I'd also try pushing the Sub cutoff up to 120Hz, and possibly lowering Room Gain a bit -- say to 3.5 or even 3.0.
> 
> 
> Also, since you moved the Sub, be sure to recheck your choices for Polarity and Phase. With only one Sub you can correct those without having to re-Measure for ARC.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, Thanks so much for your help. I've made those adjustments, and the results look even a bit better. Can you remind me which of the speaker setting still need to be configured/checked when using ARC? Do the distances, crossover, speaker size, default to what ARC is measuring now, or do they rely on what is entered during setup?


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41610#post_23735096
> 
> 
> 25K. Gosh!
> 
> --Bob



Congratulations Bob! We are all most grateful!


Cheers.


----------



## cvinfig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41610#post_23735875
> 
> 
> That's very helpful indeed. I'm trying to make the TV last until it dies. Any suggestions or advice on the unit using it with te Anthem? Is it plug and play or any settings, etc? I'm very interested in this solution.
> 
> 
> In my situation if I don't have video or don't have both audio and video ill never get it back.



For me it was just plug-and-play. I set it to the Full HD 3D preset and it worked like a charm. I have a 3 ft HDMI cable from the Anthem's HDMI 1 output to the Dr HDMI, then a 30 ft BJC series-1 HDMI cable to my projector. I also utilize the power supply with the Dr HDMI.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41610#post_23736712
> 
> 
> Bob, Thanks so much for your help. I've made those adjustments, and the results look even a bit better. Can you remind me which of the speaker setting still need to be configured/checked when using ARC? Do the distances, crossover, speaker size, default to what ARC is measuring now, or do they rely on what is entered during setup?



Not Bob, but speaker distances need to be manually entered into the setup menu by you.

Get out a tape measure and grab a friend to help if available. Measure from the center of the front of each speaker to where your head would be for the main listening position--- where you did the 1st ARC reading.

dmusoke has a good way to set the distance for the subwoofer linked in his posts. It will be different from the actual distance, but will set it to the proper phase with your fronts for best sound. It will take a little time, but I've found it to be well worth the effort.



Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41610#post_23736712
> 
> 
> Bob, Thanks so much for your help. I've made those adjustments, and the results look even a bit better. Can you remind me which of the speaker setting still need to be configured/checked when using ARC? Do the distances, crossover, speaker size, default to what ARC is measuring now, or do they rely on what is entered during setup?



Manual settings are needed for Listener Position (speaker distances; including separation distance for Rears), type of Surround speakers (Direct vs. Dipole; effects how speaker distance is used), Subwoofer Polarity, and Subwoofer Phase. And of course you also need to do a preliminary adjustment for the volume knob on your Sub to keep the resulting Sub volume trim applied by ARC within a reasonable range, say a few dB either side of 0 -- i.e., get your Sub's output level in the same ballpark as the main speakers before you Measure.


If you have more than one Subwoofer, also make sure you set the Anthem to "1 Sub", as ARC calculates the Sub volume trim it Uploads assuming that setting will be in effect.


Some other settings you'd THINK might be important are actually disabled/bypasses when Measuring for ARC or playing content with ARC. These include THX Ultra2 sub, sub Boundary Gain Compensation, LFE Bypass, Room Resonance Filter and Center Speaker EQ. Those settings are ignored when you Measure and also ignored while the currently selected Source has Room EQ ON (i.e., ARC enabled).



When using ARC, all the normal operational controls still function -- things like the tone controls, and temporary level adjustments for example. But of course for best listening with high quality content you don't want to be fiddling with those. Also, for Audio Surround Mode, you still have all the options, including THX post processing. (I recommend you set the Tone controls to Bypass so the audio isn't even going through them.)


My personal recommendation is that after setting up ARC you should stop using THX post processing, except for the increasingly rare case of movies which have not been properly re-equalized for Home Theater. For those you can separately turn on THX Re-equalization while leaving the rest of the THX post processing OFF. Press the THX button twice to check whether the bulk of THX is ON at the moment and also what the status or Re-equalization is regardless of whether the rest is ON. Again the default should be both parts of THX OFF when using ARC -- in my opinion.


For newbies: Re-equalization refers to removing the treble boost built into audio tracks for commercial theater playback (helps deal with the special characteristics of a theater full of people like that). These days that's relatively modest but still present and THX Re-equalization can be used to remove it if you play a movie and notice it to be slightly bright or brassy -- suggesting the audio track was not re-equalized as part of the transfer to disc. For OLDER movies -- say 1950 or before (black & white, 4:3 aspect ratio typically, and Mono audio) -- a much more aggressive treble boost was used to help with the attenuation of treble by the movie screen (the speakers were behind the screen). This "Academy" equalization can be removed by selecting Mono-Academy Audio Mode in the Anthem -- only available if THX is not also turned ON. Discs of such movies should have had that removed already, but if you find a movie bright, brassy and hissy that may not have been done. Try Mono-Academy mode and you may be surprised to learn people back then really did know how to record audio better than you thought.

--Bob


----------



## wixaqialo

A lot of hotly-anticipated/recently released products seemed to have come up short. Glad to know that Anthem delivered the goods.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41610#post_23735539
> 
> 
> Wow, Bob. I thought you just hit 20K posts a little while ago! Do you go through keyboards much?



Time flies, and all that. Turns out I decided to, "Party like it's 19,999!", in post #35249 on 12/22/2011.

--Bob


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41610#post_23735096
> 
> 
> 25K. Gosh!
> 
> --Bob


Congratulations on your 25K, and your induction into the Audio/Video Hall of Fame!! A lot of us wouldn't be getting the enjoyment out of our setup if it wasn't for your help.


----------



## Thxtheater

Nic


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cvinfig*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41610#post_23736927
> 
> 
> For me it was just plug-and-play. I set it to the Full HD 3D preset and it worked like a charm. I have a 3 ft HDMI cable from the Anthem's HDMI 1 output to the Dr HDMI, then a 30 ft BJC series-1 HDMI cable to my projector. I also utilize the power supply with the Dr HDMI.



Do you have the option of having it be HDMI powered?


----------



## cvinfig

^Yes


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cvinfig*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41610#post_23738428
> 
> 
> ^Yes



Perfect solution. Ill try it out. Thanks a ton.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I'm not certain what's going on here, or even whether the web site updating might still be in process, but Anthem has updated the info on their Password Protected Download page this afternoon declaring firmware version V3.10 the "Production Release" (i.e., Official) version -- but *ONLY* for those AVM 50v and D2v units that have the 3D passthrough hardware installed.


V3.09 evidently remains the Official version for AVM 50v and D2v units that do NOT have the 3D passthrough hardware installed.


The V3.10 firmware installer included in that download appears to be the same V3.10 version that was posted there just after July 5, and later pulled when some problems were reported. (Same file size and same time stamp.) Is it possible the problems only arose on units without the 3D hardware?


At the moment, the public download page on the Anthemav.com site still shows only V3.09.


(I've been using V3.10 on my D2v/3D since it first came out as a "release candidate" test version, and I've not experienced the problems reported by others, back then, with the Surround speakers.)

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

^

Bob,

I was one of the people here that had trouble with the v3.10 -- the surrounds didn't work for DD 5.1--- and my D2v does not have the 3D upgrade. I think texas steve was also having the same problem, but I don't know which model he owns.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41640#post_23742249
> 
> 
> I'm not certain what's going on here, or even whether the web site updating might still be in process, but Anthem has updated the info on their Password Protected Download page this afternoon declaring firmware version V3.10 the "Production Release" (i.e., Official) version -- but *ONLY* for those AVM 50v and D2v units that have the 3D passthrough hardware installed.
> 
> 
> V3.09 evidently remains the Official version for AVM 50v and D2v units that do NOT have the 3D passthrough hardware installed.
> 
> 
> The V3.10 firmware installer included in that download appears to be the same V3.10 version that was posted there just after July 5, and later pulled when some problems were reported. (Same file size and same time stamp.) Is it possible the problems only arose on units without the 3D hardware?
> 
> 
> At the moment, the public download page on the Anthemav.com site still shows only V3.09.
> 
> 
> (I've been using V3.10 on my D2v/3D since it first came out as a "release candidate" test version, and I've not experienced the problems reported by others, back then, with the Surround speakers.)
> 
> --Bob



Bob


Are there release notes with the changes to V 3.10 and any benefits you know of ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Here are the set of release notes covering changes since v3.09:



> Quote:
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v3.10 production release and for with 3D hardware-equipped units [sic]
> 
> 
> 1. Rotating knob very quickly caused front panel display to freeze - fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09l beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed issue where Dolby Pro Logic IIx Music was not available for 2-channel 24/192 input.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09j beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed serial control issue where Zone 2 had no audio if powering on to tuner.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed AVM 50v issue where noise was present when playing 176.4 kHz source.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09h release candidate:
> 
> 
> 1. When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source was playing, a surround upmix mode couldn't be selected - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. False "No Input Signal" status info when receiving 2-channel input - fixed.
> 
> 
> 3. "Last Used" mode preset reverted to "None" under certain conditions - fixed.
> 
> 
> 4. Previous DTS changes now certified.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Output channel count was displayed incorrectly when 6-ch analog input was selected - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. Further DTS-required changes.
> 
> 
> Known issue: When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source is selected, a surround upmix mode can't be selected.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed bug where AVM 50v sometimes powered on with low volume.
> 
> 
> 2. DTS-required changes for pending certification. Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements.




As you can see, there are a variety of bug fixes (some specific to the AVM 50v), plus the changes derived from the new DTS Certification testing.


By the way, that one change shown for v3.10 was also present when v3.10 first appeared back in July. It's not a newer change.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41640_40#post_23742542
> 
> 
> ^
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I was one of the people here that had trouble with the v3.10 -- the surrounds didn't work for DD 5.1--- and my D2v does not have the 3D upgrade. I think texas steve was also having the same problem, but I don't know which model he owns.
> 
> 
> Tom


 

Yes I too have the D2v W/O 3d Upgrade, and absolutely had the surround issues.


----------



## AVfile

No problem with 3.09l on my 50v 3D.


update: 3.10 now installed and working but it is clearly labeled for 3D hardware only.


3.09 is also included in the zip file, clearly labeled for 2D hardware.


----------



## Donloz

Here is a write up on the D2.v from a Canadian Magazine.

http://canadahifi.com/anthem-statement-d2v-3d-av-processor-review/


----------



## AVfile

^ nice review. I agree with everything ... but the new price $10,499


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes, but with "5 Stars" that's less than $2,100 CAD per Star!


So if you judge your average AVR as truly, only a 1-Star performer, it all makes sense, right?


(And that's not even resorting to the exponential curve which typifies price/performance in higher end audio/video gear....)









--Bob


----------



## bekindrewind

Darbee Darblet DVP 5000. Hello guys, I've done a search here but can't seem to come up with an answer to my question about adding a Darbee Darblet DVP 5000 to the Dv2.

Directv, Oppo bdp103, D2v, Elite PRO-70x5fd, Darbee; all plugged into the Richard Gray 400s, monoprice hmdi 10'

Directv, Oppo to D2v. D2v to Darbee to PRO-70 all using monoprice 10' hdmi cables.

Watching Oppo no problem.

Watching Directv the Elite will go to black screen for a second or two then back on, intermittently...alot! Sound continues when screen is black.

No problems with Directv when the Darbee is not in the loop.

What gives?


----------



## stanger89

Check your cables, when I added a Darbee to my system I had some "random" handshake/sync issues. I replaced all my cables with BJC cables at least 6' long. New cables cleared it up.


----------



## bekindrewind




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41640#post_23755084
> 
> 
> Check your cables, when I added a Darbee to my system I had some "random" handshake/sync issues. I replaced all my cables with BJC cables at least 6' long. New cables cleared it up.



Cable are new, no problems when the darbee in not in path. As I mentioned in my post, all hdmi cables are 10 feet.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Try bypassing the D2v and run the DirecTV directly through the Darbee to your Display to see if the DirecTV and the Darbee don't play nicely together.


Sometimes HDMI problems are due to small mechanical mismatch between HDMI plugs and sockets. So a cable that works when plugged into one socket may be marginal when plugged into another socket.


The symptoms you describe sound like continuous HDMI retries, likely due to the DirecTV not being happy with its copy protection check. For cable TV, most of the stations are not copy protected, so one diagnostic is to try, say, a local TV station (usually not protected) to see if the problem goes away. You could try that with your DirecTV as well.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bekindrewind*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41640#post_23755175
> 
> 
> Cable are new, no problems when the darbee in not in path. As I mentioned in my post, all hdmi cables are 10 feet.



Yeah, everything was fine for me too without the Darbee, but it seems in my case the Darbee was the last straw making everything no longer work.


----------



## bekindrewind




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41640#post_23755801
> 
> 
> Try bypassing the D2v and run the DirecTV directly through the Darbee to your Display to see if the DirecTV and the Darbee don't play nicely together.
> 
> 
> Sometimes HDMI problems are due to small mechanical mismatch between HDMI plugs and sockets. So a cable that works when plugged into one socket may be marginal when plugged into another socket.
> 
> 
> The symptoms you describe sound like continuous HDMI retries, likely due to the DirecTV not being happy with its copy protection check. For cable TV, most of the stations are not copy protected, so one diagnostic is to try, say, a local TV station (usually not protected) to see if the problem goes away. You could try that with your DirecTV as well.
> 
> --Bob



Hello Bob, thanks for your comments. Always appreciated!

The show I was watching last night was TruTV, most shocking. Screen went black about 6-7 times with in one minute, sound was still there. Are you saying everything Directv runs is copy protected, like TruTV?


As I write this, Dish is here, installing their stuff. Later I will run both, Dish and Directv and see if the same problem exists with Dish.

If it does, I will take the D2v out of the loop and see if that makes a difference.

Bob, are you using the Darbee DVP 5000?

I actually like it. Setting around 40-45. Still playing with it in between black outs.


----------



## bekindrewind




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41640#post_23756260
> 
> 
> Yeah, everything was fine for me too without the Darbee, but it seems in my case the Darbee was the last straw making everything no longer work.



Interesting. You changed the hdmi cables and then it worked? What cables were you using, how old were they and were they high speed hdmi cables?


----------



## pinoy ako

After installing 3.10 (3D Hardware), no more video coming out! What the &^%#$...!!!


I have D2V 3D and my source is CAPS Zuma V3...Before installing it I have 3.09I, its working fine. Followed the same procedure, remove all connected sources (HDMI only), reset to default settings and installed 3.10....Video is not coming out after installation...normally PCM 1080p is coming out in the display..now it is showing PCM XGA????

I also revert it back to 3.09, still the same problem...re install also 3.09I...no luck...



I tried my other laptop with HDMI it is working fine showing PCM 720p in the display...


Why PCM XGA shown in the Anthem display if I use my ZUMA as source????


Any advice? Please help....


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Don't panic. This is probably something simple that you've missed.


Power everything down and start by double checking both ends of every HDMI cable. Make sure they are plugged into the correct sockets, and that you don't have an input cable accidentally plugged into an output socket or an output cable accidentally plugged into an input socket. Make sure that each plug is fully inserted STRAIGHT into its socket without anything (e.g., cable weight) tugging at it.


Use the upper -- i.e, Main HDMI output -- for the connection from the D2v to your Display.


Power up the Display and make sure it is actually selected to view the input coming from the D2v.


Leave your Source devices powered off.


Power up the D2v. Check whether the Display thinks it is getting good video. Try the built in stuff in the D2v that generates video -- i.e., Volume adjustment, Setup Menu, Video Source Adjust menu.


Still no video? Then using the Front Panel Display, go into Setup and Reset Factory Defaults. Exit Setup, and power cycle the D2v.


Once again leave your Sources powered off. Check once more to see if you can get the built in video generation of the D2v to produce video on your Display -- i.e., Volume adjustment, Setup Menu, Video Source Adjust menu.


Still no video? Then get the remote for your Display. Check again that you have it selected on the input jack coming from the D2v. Go into the Display's setup menu and check that you haven't accidentally switched into a mode of operation that is not normal -- such as setting it to expect input from a computer instead of from a DVD player or set top box.


Next, using the Front Panel Display -- and starting from the Factory Reset settings you did above. Go into Video Output Configuration 1, and try a "safe" video output format. For example, set the data format to YCbCr 4:4:4 (instead of AUTO). Set the Output to 8-bit (instead of AUTO). And set the output Resolution to 480p/60. Remember that you have to CONFIRM changes in this menu on the way out of the menu, or they will not take effect.


Try 480p/60, also try 1080i/60. (If your display is a PAL Display, then you try 576p/50 and 1080i/50.)


Let us know what happens. In particular, is your Display still saying it is receiving something weird in the way of video input?



If you DO get video above, then start restoring your normal settings -- if problems return go BACK to a Factory Reset and MANUALLY re-enter settings. Only AFTER you get the D2v to produce proper video output to your Display using its built-in video generation displays, such as Video Source Adjust Menu, should you power up a Source and see if you can get Source video through the D2v properly.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41640#post_23757194
> 
> 
> Followed the same procedure, remove all connected sources (HDMI only), reset to default settings and installed 3.10....Video is not coming out after installation...normally PCM 1080p is coming out in the display..now it is showing PCM XGA????
> 
> I also revert it back to 3.09, still the same problem...re install also 3.09I...no luck.



Did you save user settings before resetting and then restore user settings after upgrading?


----------



## pinoy ako

Hello Guys,


Thanks for all the support. Really appreciate it. I tried everything above but with no luck. I have a video coming out if I use the built in video..ie set up menu, but after I exit the set up menu, its all blank again. Before I install 3.10 I save my settings. I tried my laptop with HDMI and its working and display PCM 720p. It means the problem is not the D2V. I tried to find the problem in my ZUMA and I found out it has something to do with multi monitor setting that's why the "XGA" (extended graphics array) is coming out from the front panel display of Anthem..ie..PCM XGA instead of PCM 1080p. I don't know why it was triggered after I install 3.10..I don't know how to solve it and I run out of patience. I format my ZUMA and everything went fine again. I re installed 3.10 and its working fine now.


Thanks a lot again guys....


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41640#post_23757194
> 
> 
> After installing 3.10 (3D Hardware), no more video coming out! What the &^%#$...!!!
> 
> 
> I have D2V 3D and my source is CAPS Zuma V3...Before installing it I have 3.09I, its working fine. Followed the same procedure, remove all connected sources (HDMI only), reset to default settings and installed 3.10....Video is not coming out after installation...normally PCM 1080p is coming out in the display..now it is showing PCM XGA????
> 
> I also revert it back to 3.09, still the same problem...re install also 3.09I...no luck...
> 
> 
> 
> I tried my other laptop with HDMI it is working fine showing PCM 720p in the display...
> 
> 
> Why PCM XGA shown in the Anthem display if I use my ZUMA as source????
> 
> 
> Any advice? Please help....



Are you using the on board video in the Intel DH77DF MB ? It can not handle HD video. You will need a different PCIe Video card.

Do you have a different video source such as cable tv or Blu Ray player to check out the D2v 3D HDMI output to your display ?

The CAPS Zuma was designed for audiophile audio not video


----------



## pinoy ako

My ZUMA can handle HD just fine using the latest driver for Windows 8.1 and XBMC 12.2


Intel Ivy Bridge Quad Core I7 3770S 3.1GHz Processor

Intel DH77EB micro-ATX Motherboard

Intel HD4000 Graphics


Thanks a lot. I've sorted out the problem.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bekindrewind*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41640#post_23756686
> 
> 
> Interesting. You changed the hdmi cables and then it worked? What cables were you using, how old were they and were they high speed hdmi cables?




Thought I would add this small bit of information from a reviewers article


Quote

"Another thing I discovered early on was that the DVP 5000 doesn’t like short HDMI cable runs. Using a one-meter cable to connect the processor to my display, video synchronization dropped on a regular basis — often when I paused or a disc, or stopped playback to load in another disc. What do you know: A FAQ on the company’s website warns against this eventuality (though it doesn’t explain why a short HDMI run should create a video sync issue in the first place)."

DarbeeVision HDTV Darblet DVP 5000 Review


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41640#post_23758030
> 
> 
> My ZUMA can handle HD just fine using the latest driver for Windows 8.1 and XBMC 12.2
> 
> 
> Intel Ivy Bridge Quad Core I7 3770S 3.1GHz Processor
> 
> Intel DH77EB micro-ATX Motherboard
> 
> Intel HD4000 Graphics
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot. I've sorted out the problem.



Glad you got it to work properly.

There has been numerous discussions on Computer Audiophile about attempting to get HD video on a Caps computer designed for audio to work without stuttering etc.

The limiting factor was known to be Intel HD4000 graphics. Maybe since apparently you are limiting the output to 780P this is helping.


----------



## pinoy ako

^ I am using a full HD 1920 1080p 24hz output with no problem at all...It plays smoothly as a silk...Intel HD4000 can handle it without stuttering using Jriver/XBMC...


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bekindrewind*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41640#post_23756686
> 
> 
> Interesting. You changed the hdmi cables and then it worked? What cables were you using, how old were they and were they high speed hdmi cables?



Well it was a combination. I think they were all monoprice, but it was sort of a hodge podge. I think the main cable to the projector was a 50' Monoprice 22awg. Not high speed, but had that far proven itself perfectly capable of up to 1080p60. I think the rest were either what came with products or some short, monoprice High Speed cables.


I think I replaced it all with BJC, the main run to the projector is now a 25' BJC Series 1 (certified HIgh Speed at that length) and the rest are IIRC, the Tartan 28AWG ones, 7ft from BJC.


I wanted to blame the Darbee/50V/etc too, but after a bit of reading around, and advice from Anthem and Lumagen I've seen, I bit the bullet and replaced my cables with known certified High Speed cables of reasonable length and my issues disappeared.


Oh, and it's not like it was super expensive or anything, the 25' Series 1 cable wasn't the cheapest you can get but it is about the longest actually certified high speed cable out there (at least that I'd seen)


----------



## bekindrewind

It's been mentioned several times, the hdmi cable should be 6' or longer.

Mine from monoprice and are 12'


12ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI® Cable w/ Net Jacket - Black

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024004&p_id=4968&seq=1&format=2


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41640#post_23758193
> 
> 
> ^ I am using a full HD 1920 1080p 24hz output with no problem at all...It plays smoothly as a silk...Intel HD4000 can handle it without stuttering using Jriver/XBMC...



I am interested to learn how you are getting the Caps Zuma to play properly.

Could you please tell us what file format your video files are in and where you store your video files.?

Are you able to use Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio lossless audio ?


Thank You


----------



## Apgood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41600_100#post_23759146
> 
> 
> I am interested to learn how you are getting the Caps Zuma to play properly.
> 
> Could you please tell us what file format your video files are in and where you store your video files.?
> 
> Are you able to use Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio lossless audio ?
> 
> 
> Thank You



That spec PC (i7, hd4000, Intel DH77EBHD series motherboard) will play all those Audio formats as well as 3D bluray. It will only be limited by the software player that you use. Should be able to play mkv, iso, mpls, bmdv, avi, etc... Use jriver media center, xbmc or mpc hc and they should play fine... Oh and anydvd HD for bluray decryption.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bekindrewind*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41640#post_23759079
> 
> 
> It's been mentioned several times, the hdmi cable should be 6' or longer.
> 
> . . . .



The "or longer" is not really correct. The point is, the sweet spot length for the "equalization" done by the HDMI chips at either end is 2 meters or 6 feet. Most people already know that longer cables might cause problems -- although HDMI is actually pretty forgiving up to about 12-15 feet. But what seems to surprise folks is that SHORTER cables can also cause problems.


So whereas with audio interconnects, the rule is the shorter the better, with HDMI that's not the case. Ideally the cable between any two HDMI devices will be a single run (no daisy-chained cables, switches, splitters, adapters, wall-plates, etc. and 6 feet long. Obviously for devices that are close together, it is easy to allow for a neatly coiled, 6 foot cable. For devices that are farther apart it is wise to look for a cable that claims it is good for 1080p video at that longer length. For example Blue-Jeans cable sells two types of "best" HDMI cable, with one of them spec'ed specifically for longer runs.


But even as many folks get "lucky" with their long HDMI cables, just as many folks ALSO get "lucky" with short HDMI cables. The 6 foot length is best thought of as a guideline then, designed to maximize one's luck.


For medium long runs, Redmere technology HDMI cables seem to be getting lots of kudos. These are "active" cables with a chip in the source end (which means they are also directional -- you have to plug them in the right way around for them to work right). Basically that chip handles the "equalization" in a way that's specific for the length of that very cable. To the HDMI transmitter/receiver chips in the devices at either end, it makes a Redmere cable of whatever length appear to work as well as a 6 foot long, normal, HDMI cable.


For really long runs (more than 30 feet) odds are you will need to run something OTHER THAN an HDMI cable. I.e., HDMI to a converter box, then something else between that and another converter box at the other end, and then HDMI from that 2nd converter to the destination device. There are several choices of "something else" and the matching converters, with a surprisingly large range of prices considering they all do basically the same thing, which is get you off of the simplistic, twisted-pair wiring that's inside an HDMI cable.

--Bob


----------



## pinoy ako

Hello thestewman,


My Zuma can play anything you throw on it as Mr. Apgood mentioned. It can play very high bitrates MKV files. It can play also DSD files for music if you have DSD capable DAC. I could use all those surround modes..DTS-HD Dolby True HD bitstreaming with ease. Its just a matter of settings for XBMC where in their site they have a procedure how to do it. .

http://forum.xbmc.org/showthread.php?tid=146911 


I am using a NAS Synology for data storage.

Sorry for the OT....


----------



## bekindrewind

Bob Pariseau,


I am always impressed with your emails. Not many people on forums take the time to reply with such detail in their response. I've learned and lot and I'm sure others will take a way some of the wisdom you put forth. Thank you.

bekindrewind.


----------



## gonzalc3

I just uploaded arc results to my anthem d2v. Then I turned on the the unit and change it from the FM or whatever arc uses for the calibration and switch it to DVD... I tried to access the menus to change in the source setup the bass management and the unit didn't allow me to access to any menu or even raising the volume by using the d2v's remote control. So, I turned off the switch in the back and turn it back on and there is no power.. I tried disconnecting the unit from the power source, connecting it again and not luck....


Is my unit in safe mode or something like that? what can I do to reset it?


Many thanks,


Christian


----------



## AVfile

Perhaps the upload was interrupted or corrupted. Is ARC still able to communicate with the unit? i.e. can the software find the D2v now? If so try re-uploading.


----------



## dmusoke


Has anyone compared PQ of their DVR output into the Oppo HDMI input versus directly into the Anthem pre-pro itself? I'd like to know before I do a major re-wire of my setup. Keep hearing reports that the DVR output looks cleaner if processed via the Oppo then into the Anthem versus directly from the DVR into the Anthem. Not sure what to make of these reports...


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23762141
> 
> 
> Has anyone compared PQ of their DVR output into the Oppo HDMI input versus directly into the Anthem pre-pro itself? I'd like to know before I do a major re-wire of my setup. Keep hearing reports that the DVR output looks cleaner if processed via the Oppo then into the Anthem versus directly from the DVR into the Anthem. Not sure what to make of these reports...



Where are you seeing these reports about Anthem PQ ?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23762158
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23762141
> 
> 
> Has anyone compared PQ of their DVR output into the Oppo HDMI input versus directly into the Anthem pre-pro itself? I'd like to know before I do a major re-wire of my setup. Keep hearing reports that the DVR output looks cleaner if processed via the Oppo then into the Anthem versus directly from the DVR into the Anthem. Not sure what to make of these reports...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where are you seeing these reports about Anthem PQ ?
Click to expand...

In general, I read that passing the signal through the Oppo produces a cleaner picture than through *a* pre-pro/receiver itself. Granted, the Anthem was not named specifically, but in general, it was said the Oppo does a better job on the DVR signals than if the DVR is connected directly to a processor, as is the case normally.

 

These reports were made  in the Oppo 103/105 forums...


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23762183
> 
> 
> In general, I read that passing the signal through the Oppo produces a cleaner picture than through _a_ pre-pro/receiver itself. Granted, the Anthem was not named specifically, but in general, it was said the Oppo does a better job on the DVR signals than if the DVR is connected directly to a processor, as is the case normally.
> 
> 
> These reports were made  in the Oppo 103/105 forums...



Why don't you test it before doing a permanent rewiring? In my case, since I don't have a 3D video card installed, I tried to connect my pc to the oppo 103 by hdmi and then split video and sound out of the player. While the video was good, the sound was compressed due to bandwith limitations. So for me, I simply just connected the pc directly to the processor. I get not video from the pc but at least the music, etc.. sounds great...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23762183
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23762158
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23762141
> 
> 
> Has anyone compared PQ of their DVR output into the Oppo HDMI input versus directly into the Anthem pre-pro itself? I'd like to know before I do a major re-wire of my setup. Keep hearing reports that the DVR output looks cleaner if processed via the Oppo then into the Anthem versus directly from the DVR into the Anthem. Not sure what to make of these reports...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where are you seeing these reports about Anthem PQ ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> In general, I read that passing the signal through the Oppo produces a cleaner picture than through _a_ pre-pro/receiver itself. Granted, the Anthem was not named specifically, but in general, it was said the Oppo does a better job on the DVR signals than if the DVR is connected directly to a processor, as is the case normally.
> 
> 
> These reports were made  in the Oppo 103/105 forums...
Click to expand...


The Anthem and the OPPO have similar quality level of video processing. There are differences of course since the processing system is different, but they are subtle. The differences are not big enough to justify jumping one way or the other. I suggest you keep things simple and connect the DVR direct to the Anthem. Set the DVR to "native" output so that it puts out 480i, 720p, and 1080i automatically according to whatever channel you are watching at the moment. That insures the Anthem is doing the heavy lifting for video.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23760797
> 
> 
> I just uploaded arc results to my anthem d2v. Then I turned on the the unit and change it from the FM or whatever arc uses for the calibration and switch it to DVD... I tried to access the menus to change in the source setup the bass management and the unit didn't allow me to access to any menu or even raising the volume by using the d2v's remote control. So, I turned off the switch in the back and turn it back on and there is no power.. I tried disconnecting the unit from the power source, connecting it again and not luck....
> 
> 
> Is my unit in safe mode or something like that? what can I do to reset it?
> 
> 
> Many thanks,
> 
> 
> Christian



When testing this, use the Front Panel buttons -- not the remote. If it works with the Front Panel buttons, then, of course, the first thing to try is to put fresh batteries into your remote.


It is highly unusual for an ARC Upload to screw up the processor. It is just using Serial port commands to copy values to the right places in memory -- standard stuff that's about as reliable as it can get.


What is more likely is that in the course of attaching or removing the serial cable, you shifted some of the other cables in back and now have a short -- for example of the output lines to your amp. As is, if you can't get the unit to power up, there's not much you can do in the way of diagnosis, so the next step would be to remove ALL the cables from the D2v. Then, to make sure you don't have a wall power problem of some sort, carry the D2v to a different room (different power circuit) and connect up JUST its power cord -- nothing else -- and see if the unit will power up. If so, bring it back and connect it up a few cables at a time until the problem returns (in which case you know which cables are causing it) or you get it all hooked back up again (in which case -- problem solved).


There are serial commands you can send to the D2v to force a Reset which MIGHT work even if the unit doesn't appear to be powering up normally. If you can't get the unit to power up with everything disconnected, get in touch with Anthem Tech Support and ask them to walk you through that. Afterwards you will need to re-install the firmware and your ARC solution, as well as re-entering your settings from scratch.

--Bob


----------



## MC485

Hi, everyone. I'm using MRX300 with power amp. Now want to upgrade to 50v or D2v. If I used it for movie mostly, is 50v already enough for me? Is it big difference between 50v and D2v if movie playback? Thanks~


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ There have been almost no posts here from folks who did a decent comparison of the 50v vs. the D2v for audio. Keep in mind that to do this you need to spend time to do an ARC setup for each, for example. For the prior generation products -- the original 50 and D2 -- the consensus from folks posting here was that they COULD hear the difference -- even from folks who ended up staying with the 50 anyway due to the lower price.


I'd say there will be more difference between the MRX and the 50v than between the 50v and the D2v. In addition, the audible improvement going to the D2v will be dependent on the quality of your speakers/amps.


The D2v is expensive, but my recommendation has always been if you can afford it then go for it. As you improve the rest of your system the D2v will carry you in good stead. But if you need to save money -- or spend money upgrading other parts of your system (e.g., speakers), the 50v is no slouch by any means.

--Bob


----------



## gonzalc3

Bob,



How can i do the force reset? I was told by anthem tech support to ship them the unit because I cannot power it... However, it will be too costly and probably time consuming to do so....if you know how to do it please pm me and we can talk right now over the phone as a private consult....


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I'll send you a PM.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ For folks playing along at home, it appears GONZALC3's D2v is *NOT* bricked. At this point it looks like a problem providing power to both the D2v and his Subwoofer.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23763031
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23762183
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23762158
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23762141
> 
> 
> Has anyone compared PQ of their DVR output into the Oppo HDMI input versus directly into the Anthem pre-pro itself? I'd like to know before I do a major re-wire of my setup. Keep hearing reports that the DVR output looks cleaner if processed via the Oppo then into the Anthem versus directly from the DVR into the Anthem. Not sure what to make of these reports...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where are you seeing these reports about Anthem PQ ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> In general, I read that passing the signal through the Oppo produces a cleaner picture than through *a* pre-pro/receiver itself. Granted, the Anthem was not named specifically, but in general, it was said the Oppo does a better job on the DVR signals than if the DVR is connected directly to a processor, as is the case normally.
> 
> 
> These reports were made  in the Oppo 103/105 forums...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> The Anthem and the OPPO have similar quality level of video processing. There are differences of course since the processing system is different, but they are subtle. The differences are not big enough to justify jumping one way or the other. I suggest you keep things simple and connect the DVR direct to the Anthem. *Set the DVR to "native" output so that it puts out 480i, 720p, and 1080i automatically according to whatever channel you are watching at the moment. That insures the Anthem is doing the heavy lifting for video.*
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...

 

That's how i have it now and have always set it up that way. I was a bit paranoid when i read several reports in the 103/105 forums that indicated the superiority of processing via the Oppo versus the users AVR. Anthem was not mentioned specifically as one of those processors.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MC485*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23763319
> 
> 
> Hi, everyone. I'm using MRX300 with power amp. Now want to upgrade to 50v or D2v. If I used it for movie mostly, is 50v already enough for me? Is it big difference between 50v and D2v if movie playback? Thanks~



Oh now that's a tough one, Bob's very diplomatic, but also knowledgeable and as far as I can tell a strait shooter. But I'll add my $0.02.... Which may well be heresy in this thread










When I was in college, or maybe I should say starting college, I really "bought into" the whole audiophile thing, I'd read info and reviews on all sorts of things (OK, not cable elevators







), but I could see the "sense" that brands like Audioquest advertised. As I made it through college and gained the "tools" to evaluate some of those claims a bit better (more scientifically) I realized that the sense they made was because they were not inherently untrue. Things like skin effect do exist and matter, they just don't matter for conductors the size of cables at audio frequencies (in the microwave design the certainly matter).


So with the audiophile shenanigans out of my system (thankfully while I was in college and too poor to afford and have wasted any money on them) I still was a believer in audio quality and quality components. So first thing out of college with my new job and I got my self an AVM20V2 and an MCA50.


Now here comes the heresy part. Although honestly I don't think anyone will really call it that, what I've learned since having these quality components is that I'm not an audiophile. I mean I appreciate good quality audio, and I've got a decent ear (I can tell an MP3 from a FLAC, even at high bitrates depending on content), but that ear, that caring just doesn't extend to things like differences between amps. At one point, when I moved into my house and was setting up my theater I had on hand my MCA50, some Crown XLS602s, and a Sonic Impact T-Amp. Now this is probably largely due to my efficient Klipsch speakers, but I could not tell the difference between any of them. They all sounded great with great source material.


That knowledge set me up for a bit of a dilemma when my trusty AVM20 started showing it's age (HDMI mainly). I really liked my AVM20, the build quality, the support, it's just a well-made, well thought out piece of gear. Having experienced that I "dreaded" the thought of going back to an AVR. At the same time, even the 50V IMO costs too much, though a lot of that comes from the fact that if I wanted a Video Processor I need one much more robust than the one in the Anthems. IMO a ~$3000 "AVM40V" with HDMI passthrough and HD audio support would be about the perfect machine. But alas.


I struggled for a while thought about an MRX, but couldn't get past the mental block of giving up a real AVM for one. Eventually I timed it right and got in on a deal/sale and got myself a 50V. I really like it (though at the same time, the HDMI "peculiarities" are annoying sometimes though I've sorted those 99%).


Now I'm not saying I don't believe the 50V is better, really the reasons I used to convince myself it was "worth" the premium over the MRX is that the ARC implementation is more powerful and the AVM/D series are more upgradeable (as proven by the 3D upgrade I've received). I personally think the D2 is a much tougher sell over the 50V than the 50V over the MRX, the D2V vs the 50V (IIRC) really comes down to the audio component selection and audio upsampling (basically "audiophile" upgrades, and I'm not meaning that in a derogatory way), where as the 50V has more functional benefits. But I think they are all far above average audio quality wise, so you're spending for smaller and smaller differences.


So where am I going with all this? Personally, if I had an MRX, I think I'd stick with it and be happy, and put the money you don't spend on the 50V or D2V into speakers, display, acoustic treatments, media, games, maybe travel, or the bank/investments.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23763542
> 
> 
> ^ There have been almost no posts here from folks who did a decent comparison of the 50v vs. the D2v for audio. Keep in mind that to do this you need to spend time to do an ARC setup for each, for example.



Out of curiosity, you wouldn't really want to do a separate ARC setup for each would you? Since each ARC measurement is slightly different due to the nature of audio/acoustics. Wouldn't you want to do the measurement and then just upload the "same" correction (same settings) to both? That way some rogue measurement doesn't influence your comparison one way or another?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The problem is that many of the older comparisons out there don't have an ARC setup EITHER WAY. Or have it for one but not the other.


Back in the day, ARC was serial # keyed to the processor, so you couldn't just move the solution from one to the other.

--Bob


----------



## MC485

Dear Bob and Stanger,


Thanks for your advise. Then I decided to keep my MRX300


----------



## AV_mike




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MC485*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23768742
> 
> 
> Dear Bob and Stanger,
> 
> 
> Thanks for your advise. Then I decided to keep my MRX300



You may be more interested in stepping up to the vey soon to be released updated MRX510 & 710. They will give you an improved ARC implementation, at less than half the price of the 50v. Anthem to make official announcements at CEDIA in the next few days.

Regards, Mike.


----------



## Donloz

Anthem have the NEW receivers on their web page. http://www.anthemav.com/


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I just got the OK to reveal that I've been Beta Testing the new MRX 710 for some time. My testing has been focussed on using it in a 2.1 speaker configuration, with a Samsung 1080p plasma.


Of course I've been looking at it from the perspective of a D2v user, and I'd say the first description that comes to mind is "simple". For example, there's no way to configure a specific type of HDMI video output format -- with the sole exception of being able to force Deep Color output to 8-bit even if your Display is willing to accept more.


So you get EITHER (1) video pass-through, meaning your Source and your Display negotiate the video format in use, or (2) automatic video, meaning the MRX finds out what the Display says it wants and sends that -- which includes de-interlacing, upscaling, input to output format conversion, and frame rate conversion if the Display says it wants something different than what's coming in as video input from the Source.


As for audio, the new, ethernet-based ARC works just fine. One highlight of these new MRX units is that they include enough processor power to pretty much duplicate what ARC can accomplish on the AVM 50v and D2v. I don't know if it's fair to see they are entirely up to that level, but there's no longer the obvious difference in correction resources as was true between the D2v and the prior MRX line.


I set the new ARC a particularly tough challenge -- poor speaker positioning (particularly for the Sub) and a listening position deliberately set up off center -- about on-axis with the placement of Left Front, and over near a wall.


The new ARC handled all that just fine; hardly worked up a sweat. Measurement is faster (needs fewer sweep tones each time to lock in) and seems pretty robust -- no network glitches or issues with it rejecting test sweeps.


The new ARC Windows application includes an entirely redone UI. Among other things you can see the Measured curves for each mic location for each speaker. And in Targets, you also get a chart that shows you how the Target curve will change as you enter changes -- i.e., without having to accept the changes first.


They've also added the ability to Print results.



I won't derail this into a 2nd MRX thread, as the bulk of discussion on these three new units should of course go over there.


But if any of the AVM 50v / D2v crowd here have questions, I'll be happy to try to answer them.



ETA: The new ARC retains the prior simplification for MRX users that MAX EQ Frequency is limited to no higher than 5KHz (which is also the default). You can lower it below that, but not raise it. This eliminates the confusion factor among MRX users as to whether the Measured data higher up than that is accurate enough to be used as a basis for treble correction.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Korey*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41490#post_23688209
> 
> 
> I use SR-2 Serial Routers to enable multiple device control of RS232 components.



I'm seeing some funkiness with my RS232 y-splitter cable, I think I'm gonna swing for one of these now. Thanks again.


Brian


----------



## TKO1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23774531
> 
> 
> I just got the OK to reveal that I've been Beta Testing the new MRX 710 for some time. My testing has been focussed on using it in a 2.1 speaker configuration, with a Samsung 1080p plasma.
> 
> 
> Of course I've been looking at it from the perspective of a D2v user, and I'd say the first description that comes to mind is "simple". For example, there's no way to configure a specific type of HDMI video output format -- with the sole exception of being able to force Deep Color output to 8-bit even if your Display is willing to accept more.
> 
> 
> So you get EITHER (1) video pass-through, meaning your Source and your Display negotiate the video format in use, or (2) automatic video, meaning the MRX finds out what the Display says it wants and sends that -- which includes de-interlacing, upscaling, input to output format conversion, and frame rate conversion if the Display says it wants something different than what's coming in as video input from the Source.
> 
> 
> As for audio, the new, ethernet-based ARC works just fine. One highlight of these new MRX units is that they include enough processor power to pretty much duplicate what ARC can accomplish on the AVM 50v and D2v. I don't know if it's fair to see they are entirely up to that level, but there's no longer the obvious difference in correction resources as was true between the D2v and the prior MRX line.
> 
> 
> I set the new ARC a particularly tough challenge -- poor speaker positioning (particularly for the Sub) and a listing position deliberately set up off center -- about on-axis with the placement of Left Front, and over near a wall.
> 
> 
> The new ARC handled all that just fine; hardly worked up a sweat. Measurement is faster (needs fewer sweep tones each time to lock in) and seems pretty robust -- no network glitches or issues with it rejecting test sweeps.
> 
> 
> The new ARC Windows application includes an entirely redone UI. Among other things you can see the Measured curves for each mic location for each speaker. And in Targets, you also get a chart that shows you how the Target curve will change as you enter changes -- i.e., without having to accept the changes first.
> 
> 
> They've also added the ability to Print results.
> 
> 
> 
> I won't derail this into a 2nd MRX thread, as the bulk of discussion on these three new units should of course go over there.
> 
> 
> But if any of the AVM 50v / D2v crowd here have questions, I'll be happy to try to answer them.
> 
> 
> 
> ETA: The new ARC retains the prior simplification for MRX users that MAX EQ Frequency is limited to no higher than 5KHz (which is also the default). You can lower it below that, but not raise it. This eliminates the confusion factor among MRX users as to whether the Measured data higher up than that is accurate enough to be used as a basis for treble correction.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,


appreciate the updates. Did you notice any silence/popping, even at a low volume, with the new versions when playing Redbook CDs over a digital input?


Wouldn't mind seeing some screen captures of the new ARC software ;-)


Cheers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Not specifically with respect to CD playback (or any audio format for that matter). However I'm having some HDMI reliability problems between an OPPO 80 and the MRX 710. It is almost certainly a marginal HDMI cable, but we've deliberately not swapped that out for testing purposes -- i.e., does new MRX firmware handle it any better.


Although I'm comfortable talking about my testing results, I don't think I should post any screen shots just yet. Anthem deserves the courtesy of being allowed to be the first to publish such stuff -- in case there are any last minute changes in the graphics.

--Bob


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41600_100#post_23774531
> 
> 
> I just got the OK to reveal that I've been Beta Testing the new MRX 710 for some time. My testing has been focussed on using it in a 2.1 speaker configuration, with a Samsung 1080p plasma.
> 
> --Bob


*YOU NEED TO START the MRX 310 - 510 -710 THREAD*


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Who me?


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41600_100#post_23775231
> 
> Who me?



YES YOU MUST START THE THREAD


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Seriously, no. The thread really should be handled by someone who intends to use the MRX as their primary system.

--Bob


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23774531
> 
> 
> I just got the OK to reveal that I've been Beta Testing the new MRX 710 for some time. My testing has been focussed on using it in a 2.1 speaker configuration, with a Samsung 1080p plasma.
> 
> 
> Of course I've been looking at it from the perspective of a D2v user, and I'd say the first description that comes to mind is "simple". For example, there's no way to configure a specific type of HDMI video output format -- with the sole exception of being able to force Deep Color output to 8-bit even if your Display is willing to accept more.
> 
> 
> So you get EITHER (1) video pass-through, meaning your Source and your Display negotiate the video format in use, or (2) automatic video, meaning the MRX finds out what the Display says it wants and sends that -- which includes de-interlacing, upscaling, input to output format conversion, and frame rate conversion if the Display says it wants something different than what's coming in as video input from the Source.
> 
> 
> As for audio, the new, ethernet-based ARC works just fine. One highlight of these new MRX units is that they include enough processor power to pretty much duplicate what ARC can accomplish on the AVM 50v and D2v. I don't know if it's fair to see they are entirely up to that level, but there's no longer the obvious difference in correction resources as was true between the D2v and the prior MRX line.
> 
> 
> I set the new ARC a particularly tough challenge -- poor speaker positioning (particularly for the Sub) and a listening position deliberately set up off center -- about on-axis with the placement of Left Front, and over near a wall.
> 
> 
> The new ARC handled all that just fine; hardly worked up a sweat. Measurement is faster (needs fewer sweep tones each time to lock in) and seems pretty robust -- no network glitches or issues with it rejecting test sweeps.
> 
> 
> The new ARC Windows application includes an entirely redone UI. Among other things you can see the Measured curves for each mic location for each speaker. And in Targets, you also get a chart that shows you how the Target curve will change as you enter changes -- i.e., without having to accept the changes first.
> 
> 
> They've also added the ability to Print results.
> 
> 
> 
> I won't derail this into a 2nd MRX thread, as the bulk of discussion on these three new units should of course go over there.
> 
> 
> But if any of the AVM 50v / D2v crowd here have questions, I'll be happy to try to answer them.
> 
> 
> 
> ETA: The new ARC retains the prior simplification for MRX users that MAX EQ Frequency is limited to no higher than 5KHz (which is also the default). You can lower it below that, but not raise it. This eliminates the confusion factor among MRX users as to whether the Measured data higher up than that is accurate enough to be used as a basis for treble correction.
> 
> --Bob



This is great and perfect timing I am looking for a new receiver for my living room.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41670#post_23764365
> 
> 
> Oh now that's a tough one, Bob's very diplomatic, but also knowledgeable and as far as I can tell a strait shooter. But I'll add my $0.02.... Which may well be heresy in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I was in college, or maybe I should say starting college, I really "bought into" the whole audiophile thing, I'd read info and reviews on all sorts of things (OK, not cable elevators
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but I could see the "sense" that brands like Audioquest advertised. As I made it through college and gained the "tools" to evaluate some of those claims a bit better (more scientifically) I realized that the sense they made was because they were not inherently untrue. Things like skin effect do exist and matter, they just don't matter for conductors the size of cables at audio frequencies (in the microwave design the certainly matter).
> 
> 
> So with the audiophile shenanigans out of my system (thankfully while I was in college and too poor to afford and have wasted any money on them) I still was a believer in audio quality and quality components. So first thing out of college with my new job and I got my self an AVM20V2 and an MCA50.
> 
> 
> Now here comes the heresy part. Although honestly I don't think anyone will really call it that, what I've learned since having these quality components is that I'm not an audiophile. I mean I appreciate good quality audio, and I've got a decent ear (I can tell an MP3 from a FLAC, even at high bitrates depending on content), but that ear, that caring just doesn't extend to things like differences between amps. At one point, when I moved into my house and was setting up my theater I had on hand my MCA50, some Crown XLS602s, and a Sonic Impact T-Amp. Now this is probably largely due to my efficient Klipsch speakers, but I could not tell the difference between any of them. They all sounded great with great source material.
> 
> 
> That knowledge set me up for a bit of a dilemma when my trusty AVM20 started showing it's age (HDMI mainly). I really liked my AVM20, the build quality, the support, it's just a well-made, well thought out piece of gear. Having experienced that I "dreaded" the thought of going back to an AVR. At the same time, even the 50V IMO costs too much, though a lot of that comes from the fact that if I wanted a Video Processor I need one much more robust than the one in the Anthems. IMO a ~$3000 "AVM40V" with HDMI passthrough and HD audio support would be about the perfect machine. But alas.
> 
> 
> I struggled for a while thought about an MRX, but couldn't get past the mental block of giving up a real AVM for one. Eventually I timed it right and got in on a deal/sale and got myself a 50V. I really like it (though at the same time, the HDMI "peculiarities" are annoying sometimes though I've sorted those 99%).
> 
> 
> Now I'm not saying I don't believe the 50V is better, really the reasons I used to convince myself it was "worth" the premium over the MRX is that the ARC implementation is more powerful and the AVM/D series are more upgradeable (as proven by the 3D upgrade I've received). I personally think the D2 is a much tougher sell over the 50V than the 50V over the MRX, the D2V vs the 50V (IIRC) really comes down to the audio component selection and audio upsampling (basically "audiophile" upgrades, and I'm not meaning that in a derogatory way), where as the 50V has more functional benefits. But I think they are all far above average audio quality wise, so you're spending for smaller and smaller differences.
> 
> 
> So where am I going with all this? Personally, if I had an MRX, I think I'd stick with it and be happy, and put the money you don't spend on the 50V or D2V into speakers, display, acoustic treatments, media, games, maybe travel, or the bank/investments.
> 
> Out of curiosity, you wouldn't really want to do a separate ARC setup for each would you? Since each ARC measurement is slightly different due to the nature of audio/acoustics. Wouldn't you want to do the measurement and then just upload the "same" correction (same settings) to both? That way some rogue measurement doesn't influence your comparison one way or another?



I did a side by side comparaison of the between an AVM40 and a D2 and the D2 really superior to the AVM40 to a point that I went with the D2. The possibility to upgrade help improve the resale value of these units. I am about to proceed with the upgrade from D2V to D2v 3D and when I look a the resales value of an upgrade unit this is not bad. We are both loosing a lot more money on our projector upgrade.


----------



## dmusoke


Me thinks a Gen 2 version of the D2v is coming next year...Then what we D2v users gonna do







 ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Continue enjoying our D2v's? They don't suddenly expire you know.









--Bob


----------



## lk100

Since the last firmware update split the D2v 3D from the D2v, can we assume that Anthem is done with updates for the non 3D D2v?


Lee


----------



## Texas steve


I hope not!


----------



## Donloz

Look what happened to the D2, when the D2.5 came out.


----------



## Tolstoi

That would be silly since the D2V and AMV 50v represent currently most of the unit being used. They may not develop new feature but for sure they will support these units with bug fixes.


----------



## Tolstoi

I would also add that I personnally know 4 peoples with either D2V and only 2 will upgrade to 3D because they are not intrerested by 3D at all or only occasionnally and for this they just send directly the player output to their projector.


In my opinion the number of peoples who will upgrade may be less than 50%.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ D2v/3D is mostly about new sales -- folks who won't even consider it if they can't tick off the "OK With 3D" check box.


Besides 3D, Upgraders will also include folks who want "pass through" for video.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41700#post_23778488
> 
> 
> ^ D2v/3D is mostly about new sales -- folks who won't even consider it if they can't tick off the "OK With 3D" check box.
> 
> 
> Besides 3D, Upgraders will also include folks who want "pass through" for video.
> 
> --Bob



That's why I upgraded mine. I couldn't care less about 3D (and if I ever start to, the video only goes through my Lumagen anyway). But I got the 3D upgrade, well 1 because it was free, and 2 because I knew it would improve the resale value of my 50V.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41700#post_23778804
> 
> 
> That's why I upgraded mine. I couldn't care less about 3D (and if I ever start to, the video only goes through my Lumagen anyway). But I got the 3D upgrade, well 1 because it was free, and 2 because I knew it would improve the resale value of my 50V.



As Bob pointed out in addition, the passthrough feature is really key. Most of the players will be scaling to 4k so the need to have on-board scalers will decrease. You'll really only need the AVR or pre-pro, at least in the short term, to do switching. Supporting any of the audio and video specs in HDMI 2.0 is a whole different discussion and you won't see those products coming out into the mainstream until next year at the earliest. You will likely still have a good 3-7 year shelf life on the 50v and D2v 3D models. Any going to be upgrading to 32-channel audio in their home theater in the near future?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41700#post_23776141
> 
> 
> 
> Me thinks a Gen 2 version of the D2v is coming next year...Then what we D2v users gonna do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


 

 


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41700#post_23776173
> 
> 
> ^ Continue enjoying our D2v's? They don't suddenly expire you know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob


 

 

Funny ... but they must as well be. For this newer model, I see:

 

1.   Independent and multiple sub support via ARC(up to 4 subs).

2.   Better up-to-date ADCs(ES9102/9112 32b ADC from ESS Tech) and better DACs(ESS9018 from ESS Tech).

3.   Native 4K support.

4.   Ethernet/Wireless based FW upgrade.

5.   True HT bypass.

6.   Better/modern GUI(hooray!).

7.   USB support.

8,   DSD support.

9.   Faster HDMI switching.

10. Phono MM/MC support(?)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ And a pony!


Seriously, though. This is only an issue if you are in the market now and have to decide whether to wait (for something about which we have no HINT at the moment) or not.


If you already OWN a D2v, it doesn't stop working when a new model comes out. Whenever that might be. You can make the benefits analysis at that point -- whether whatever might be in a new model is worth the upgrade cost. The nice thing, is that your situation can get no WORSE than that you CONTINUE to own a D2v.









--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41700#post_23776141
> 
> 
> Me thinks a Gen 2 version of the D2v is coming next year



The D3 rumor has been going on since 2007 as a 2-second search shows.


D2v 3D is the gen2 version of D2v, which is the gen2 version of D2, which is the gen2 version of D1.


Nothing else is in the plan and incidentally the newer Sony 4K server has two HDMI outputs. A second HDMI cable is a lot cheaper than a 4K prepro upgrade.


----------



## dmusoke


Bob:

 

I love the sound and feature set of my D2v but its been long in the tooth for its $10K price. IMO, I figure it will be technologically obsolete in 5-7 years or so. I'm hoping the replacement unit will be a technical tour-de-force as well as an audio marvel to justify its $15K price







.

 

- David


----------



## spiderv6

Look - 3D is dying if not as good as dead already.


When was the last MAJOR cinema release in 3D? Avatar?


I'm afraid I never did get the hype.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41700_100#post_23780600
> 
> 
> Look - 3D is dying if not as good as dead already.
> 
> 
> When was the last MAJOR cinema release in 3D? Avatar?
> 
> 
> I'm afraid I never did get the hype.



I guess you are Right - I only OWN 100 Blu-Ray 3D Movies


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41700#post_23780600
> 
> 
> Look - 3D is dying if not as good as dead already.
> 
> 
> When was the last MAJOR cinema release in 3D? Avatar?
> 
> 
> I'm afraid I never did get the hype.



I always refer to it as the "3D upgrade" *in quotes* because it is really a video passthru mod as explained in posts 41710 - 41712. Worth more to some than others obviously.


----------



## obie_fl

I have to agree with the pass-thru function being more of an attraction than 3D. At least that is what finally got me to go from the D2 to D2v3D. I've often wondered why the AVM40 wasn't a bigger seller.


3D may not be setting the world on fire but my last four BD orders were all 3D and I have no where near 100 like the good Doctor.

Star Trek Into Darkness

World War Z

Ironman 3

Man of Steel



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41700#post_23779909
> 
> 
> 
> Funny ... but they must as well be. For this newer model, I see:
> 
> 
> 1.   Independent and multiple sub support via ARC(up to 4 subs).
> 
> 2.   Better up-to-date ADCs(ES9102/9112 32b ADC from ESS Tech) and better DACs(ESS9018 from ESS Tech).
> 
> 3.   Native 4K support.
> 
> 4.   Ethernet/Wireless based FW upgrade.
> 
> 5.   True HT bypass.
> 
> 6.   Better/modern GUI(hooray!).
> 
> 7.   USB support.
> 
> 8,   DSD support.
> 
> 9.   Faster HDMI switching.
> 
> 10. Phono MM/MC support(?)


Number 1 is a biggie for me.


I should hope that Anthem is at least doing napkin sketches for a replacement Pre/Pro. There is some pretty nice tech in their new receivers that should make their way in to the Pre/Pros sooner or later, hopefully sooner.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I sincerely hope Anthem doesn't go the simpler is better route for a new pre-pro. The attraction of the D2v to me is it's very flexibility. All those settings and configuration options are USEFUL even if difficult to explain.


I, for example, actually USE weird stuff like GAMMA Correction and MONO ACADEMY Audio Mode


But the current trend seems to be towards automatic, non-adjustable operation.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

Bob I think you need to add Lumagen to your expertise list along with Anthem and Oppo.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I still believe integrating audio and video processing into one box -- a pre-pro -- is the correct answer. HDMI is just too broken for me to want to use two boxes.

--Bob


----------



## obie_fl

If someone would integrate a Lumagen VP into a Pre-Pro I'd be all ears...err eyes.

Honestly I haven't had much in the way of HDMI issues and I have both a Darbee and a Lumagen hanging off the back of my D2v3D. Trying to do that with my original D2 and some HDMI switches was another story.


----------



## barhoram

To properly set up my Sub-woofer with ARC (D2), is this correct?


Set channel level trim to -1.5

Choose Manual level, and down to sub-woofer

Adjust volume on Sub unitl RS Meter reads 75db on slow, C weighting

Save this volume level on Sub.

Run ARC


Is this correct? Arc then sets the proper sub level and it ignores the channel level setting?

Do I need to then set channel trim back to 0, or does it not matter?


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41700#post_23780718
> 
> 
> I guess you are Right - I only OWN 100 Blu-Ray 3D Movies



Yep and I have boxes of HD DVD's cluttering up my basement............


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Stuck edgewise into the ground the make an interesting border edging for flower beds.

--Bob


----------



## dkojevnikov

So are D2V and 50V getting a new ARC application? With same improvements but no network support?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41700#post_23781903
> 
> 
> To properly set up my Sub-woofer with ARC (D2), is this correct?
> 
> Set channel level trim to -1.5
> 
> Choose Manual level, and down to sub-woofer
> 
> Adjust volume on Sub unitl RS Meter reads 75db on slow, C weighting
> 
> Save this volume level on Sub.
> 
> Run ARC
> 
> 
> Is this correct? Arc then sets the proper sub level and it ignores the channel level setting?
> 
> Do I need to then set channel trim back to 0, or does it not matter?



I'm not sure what you mean by 'set channel level trim to -1.5'.


Go into the set-up menu>LEVEL CALIBRATION.

Set NOISE SEQUENCE to MANUAL. Go down to TEST LEVEL. This will send the test signal to the LF speaker. Using your SPL meter (set to C-weight/Slow) at the main listening position, set the level so that the the SPL meter is reading 75dB.

Then go down to the MOVIE SUB and, using the sub's volume knob, set it to 75dB. If you have 2 subs, set them to 72dB each. These two adjustments are all that need to be done before running ARC. Leave the TEST LEVEL at whatever setting that it took to get it to 75dB.

ARC will adjust each individual speaker level according to what the mic hears at the mlp. Depending on the distance and type of speaker ARC may set the trim on each separate speaker differently.

For example: LF -0.5 : C +0.5: RF -1.0 : RS +1.5 : LS +2.5 : MOV SUB -2.0
*DO NOT CHANGE THESE SETTINGS !!* These trims for each speaker is what ARC has set. DO NOT TOUCH.


You will also need to accurately measure the speaker distances, but the measurements can be input before or after ARC is run. *But they must be put in by you. ARC does not set speaker distances.*


Tom


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spiderv6*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41700_100#post_23782535
> 
> 
> Yep and I have boxes of HD DVD's cluttering up my basement............



I use to have Boxes of HDDVD's but I took them to the DUMP in May.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41700#post_23783245
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean by 'set channel level trim to -1.5'.
> 
> 
> Go into the set-up menu>LEVEL CALIBRATION.
> 
> Set NOISE SEQUENCE to MANUAL. Go down to TEST LEVEL. This will send the test signal to the LF speaker. Using your SPL meter (set to C-weight/Slow) at the main listening position, set the level so that the the SPL meter is reading 75dB.
> 
> Then go down to the MOVIE SUB and, using the sub's volume knob, set it to 75dB. If you have 2 subs, set them to 72dB each. These two adjustments are all that need to be done before running ARC. Leave the TEST LEVEL at whatever setting that it took to get it to 75dB.
> 
> ARC will adjust each individual speaker level according to what the mic hears at the mlp. Depending on the distance and type of speaker ARC may set the trim on each separate speaker differently.
> 
> For example: LF -0.5 : C +0.5: RF -1.0 : RS +1.5 : LS +2.5 : MOV SUB -2.0
> *DO NOT CHNGE THESE SETTING !!* These trims for each speaker is what ARC has set. DO NOT TOUCH.
> 
> 
> You will also need to accurately measure the speaker distances, but the measurements can be input before or after ARC is run. *But they must be put in by you. ARC does not set speaker distances.*
> 
> 
> Tom


Great set up instructions

I would add one item.

Make sure you ZERO all the speakers before starting. Especially the sub as you will use the subs volume control.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41700#post_23783245
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean by 'set channel level trim to -1.5'.
> 
> 
> Go into the set-up menu>LEVEL CALIBRATION.
> 
> Set NOISE SEQUENCE to MANUAL. Go down to TEST LEVEL. This will send the test signal to the LF speaker. Using your SPL meter (set to C-weight/Slow) at the main listening position, set the level so that the the SPL meter is reading 75dB.
> 
> Then go down to the MOVIE SUB and, using the sub's volume knob, set it to 75dB. If you have 2 subs, set them to 72dB each. These two adjustments are all that need to be done before running ARC. Leave the TEST LEVEL at whatever setting that it took to get it to 75dB.
> 
> ARC will adjust each individual speaker level according to what the mic hears at the mlp. Depending on the distance and type of speaker ARC may set the trim on each separate speaker differently.
> 
> For example: LF -0.5 : C +0.5: RF -1.0 : RS +1.5 : LS +2.5 : MOV SUB -2.0
> *DO NOT CHNGE THESE SETTING !!* These trims for each speaker is what ARC has set. DO NOT TOUCH.
> 
> 
> You will also need to accurately measure the speaker distances, but the measurements can be input before or after ARC is run. *But they must be put in by you. ARC does not set speaker distances.*
> 
> 
> Tom





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41730#post_23783466
> 
> 
> Great set up instructions
> 
> I would add one item.
> 
> Make sure you ZERO all the speakers before starting. Especially the sub as you will use the subs volume control.


You can zero out all speakers before starting measurement with ARC; but, you really don't have to do that. Zeroing out your LF and Sub are the speakers that you really do need to zero out when you are manually adjusting the Test Tone to read 75db for your LF and your sub.


Also, make sure the mic is placed at your main listening position (mlp), pointing straight up at the ceiling, and at ear height. If back of your mlp chair is higher that your ear height, then either raise the mic up so it clears the back of your mlp or move the mic about 6" to a foot closer to your TV/Projector Screen.


----------



## Donloz

It has been a little quite lately, so I will post my ARC results to give the Pro's some thing to ponder on.







Thank you guys in advance.

ARC1--OCT-03-13.bmp 5168k .bmp file


----------



## Donloz

Page 2
ARC2--OCT-03-13.bmp 5168k .bmp file


----------



## Donloz

Page 3, Sorry gentlemen, It's my first time posting ARC. As you can see, I haven't got the hang of it yet.
ARC3--OCT-03-13.bmp 5168k .bmp file


Thanx


----------



## Donloz

I hope this works better.

ARC1--OCT-03-13.JPG 357k .JPG file
ARC2--OCT-03-13.JPG 357k .JPG file
ARC3--OCT-03-13.JPG 352k .JPG file


----------



## |M|B.M.F.

I am a D2 owner. What is the most up to date arc version for the d2?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ ARC v3.0.2 -- downloadable from the Anthem site under the D2v downloads (it's the same thing for the D2).


Your firmware in the D2 should be v1.33.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41730#post_23802422
> 
> 
> I hope this works better.
> 
> ARC1--OCT-03-13.JPG 357k .JPG file
> ARC2--OCT-03-13.JPG 357k .JPG file
> ARC3--OCT-03-13.JPG 352k .JPG file



You have a pretty big dip in your subwoofer at @35hz. Have you tried using the Quick Measure function to see if you can get it smoothed out some by repositioning your sub? Do you have just one sub ??

Your RF might need some tweaking also. It has a dip around 150hz that could possibly be smoothed out with some repositioning.


I also see you have raised your Max EQ to 12000 for movies. Your charts all drop off at 8-10 kHz which is not uncommon due to the directionality of higher frequencies. I would be worried that you might be asking ARC to correct a problem that isn't really there. If it were me I would leave it at the 5khz default, or at least not set it higher than 8khz. But that's just me.


My 2 cents,

Tom


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41730#post_23802995
> 
> 
> You have a pretty big dip in your subwoofer at @35hz. Have you tried using the Quick Measure function to see if you can get it smoothed out some by repositioning your sub? Do you have just one sub ??
> 
> Your RF might need some tweaking also. It has a dip around 150hz that could possibly be smoothed out with some repositioning.
> 
> 
> I also see you have raised your Max EQ to 12000 for movies. Your charts all drop off at 8-10 kHz which is not uncommon due to the directionality of higher frequencies. I would be worried that you might be asking ARC to correct a problem that isn't really there. If it were me I would leave it at the 5khz default, or at least not set it higher than 8khz. But that's just me.
> 
> 
> My 2 cents,
> 
> Tom[/quote
> 
> 
> Tom, Thanx for the info. I have only one sub and will move to another position. I will repost later on. I moved to 12k to get rid of the dip at 10khz, but will keep things at 5k from now on. Here is a chart recalculated at 5k. I'm a novice on these charts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ARC1--OCT -04-13 @ 5K.bmp 5168k .bmp file


----------



## Apgood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41600_100#post_23774531
> 
> 
> I just got the OK to reveal that I've been Beta Testing the new MRX 710 for some time. My testing has been focussed on using it in a 2.1 speaker configuration, with a Samsung 1080p plasma.
> 
> 
> Of course I've been looking at it from the perspective of a D2v user, and I'd say the first description that comes to mind is "simple". For example, there's no way to configure a specific type of HDMI video output format -- with the sole exception of being able to force Deep Color output to 8-bit even if your Display is willing to accept more.
> 
> 
> So you get EITHER (1) video pass-through, meaning your Source and your Display negotiate the video format in use, or (2) automatic video, meaning the MRX finds out what the Display says it wants and sends that -- which includes de-interlacing, upscaling, input to output format conversion, and frame rate conversion if the Display says it wants something different than what's coming in as video input from the Source.
> 
> 
> As for audio, the new, ethernet-based ARC works just fine. One highlight of these new MRX units is that they include enough processor power to pretty much duplicate what ARC can accomplish on the AVM 50v and D2v. I don't know if it's fair to see they are entirely up to that level, but there's no longer the obvious difference in correction resources as was true between the D2v and the prior MRX line.
> 
> 
> I set the new ARC a particularly tough challenge -- poor speaker positioning (particularly for the Sub) and a listening position deliberately set up off center -- about on-axis with the placement of Left Front, and over near a wall.
> 
> 
> The new ARC handled all that just fine; hardly worked up a sweat. Measurement is faster (needs fewer sweep tones each time to lock in) and seems pretty robust -- no network glitches or issues with it rejecting test sweeps.
> 
> 
> The new ARC Windows application includes an entirely redone UI. Among other things you can see the Measured curves for each mic location for each speaker. And in Targets, you also get a chart that shows you how the Target curve will change as you enter changes -- i.e., without having to accept the changes first.
> 
> 
> They've also added the ability to Print results.
> 
> 
> 
> I won't derail this into a 2nd MRX thread, as the bulk of discussion on these three new units should of course go over there.
> 
> 
> But if any of the AVM 50v / D2v crowd here have questions, I'll be happy to try to answer them.
> 
> 
> 
> ETA: The new ARC retains the prior simplification for MRX users that MAX EQ Frequency is limited to no higher than 5KHz (which is also the default). You can lower it below that, but not raise it. This eliminates the confusion factor among MRX users as to whether the Measured data higher up than that is accurate enough to be used as a basis for treble correction.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


About 12 months ago in the MRX thread (see below) there was a post by someone stating that there was a known limit of the dsp function that resulted in audible distortion at certain frequencies in some circumstances.


Are you aware of this issue? Do you know if it is fixed in the gen 2 MRX models?


Here is a quote of the post from MRX thread (post 11788 on 8/13/12):


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanser*  /t/1289533/anthem-mrx-receivers-300-500-700-owners-thread-tweaking-guide/11700_100#post_22302713
> 
> 
> In case anybody is still interested: The cause for this problem that has been bugging me since I bought the mrx300 is finally found: Andrew from Anthem pinpointed it to a "rounding error inherent to single precision floating point processing". In other words, it is a byproduct of the normal DSP function in the Anthem and cannot be fixed. Everybody here has it, even if most don´t seem to notice it. According to Anthem It is still inside the distortion specifications, but audible under special circumstances like a loud, isolated bass tone, since it is modulated with the bass tone and has much higher frequency. Normally, it is masked by other frequency content. Just for your information. I have decided to live with it, since the pro of ARC outweigh the defect. I managed to reduce the noise by lowering bass level (with which the noise is correlates in volume) by 4 dB and raising for compensation the sub by 8 db. The result has more deep bass below 60 Hz and lacks in midbass around 100-200 Hz, but on the average it gives a similar bass impression without the noise.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Donloz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41730#post_23803111
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41730#post_23802995
> 
> 
> You have a pretty big dip in your subwoofer at @35hz. Have you tried using the Quick Measure function to see if you can get it smoothed out some by repositioning your sub? Do you have just one sub ??
> 
> Your RF might need some tweaking also. It has a dip around 150hz that could possibly be smoothed out with some repositioning.
> 
> 
> I also see you have raised your Max EQ to 12000 for movies. Your charts all drop off at 8-10 kHz which is not uncommon due to the directionality of higher frequencies. I would be worried that you might be asking ARC to correct a problem that isn't really there. If it were me I would leave it at the 5khz default, or at least not set it higher than 8khz. But that's just me.
> 
> 
> My 2 cents,
> 
> Tom[/quote
> 
> 
> Tom, Thanx for the info. I have only one sub and will move to another position. I will repost later on. I moved to 12k to get rid of the dip at 10khz, but will keep things at 5k from now on. Here is a chart recalculated at 5k. I'm a novice on these charts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ARC1--OCT -04-13 @ 5K.bmp 5168k .bmp file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not the most knowledgeable person here, but I have had good luck using the Quick Measure to get speakers tuned in. The less ARC needs to correct, the better.
> 
> Others here may be able to help more than I can.
> 
> 
> Tom
Click to expand...


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Apgood*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41730#post_23803169
> 
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> About 11 months ago in the MRX thread (with try find post an add a link) there was a post by someone stating that there was a known limit Of the decoding (?) Chip that resulted in distortion at 200hz(?) when very low frequency music like pipe organ music is played.
> 
> 
> Are you aware of this issue? Do you know if it is fixed in the gen 2 MRX models?
> 
> 
> Here is a quote of the post from MRX thread (post 11788 on)8/13/12:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hanser*  /t/1289533/anthem-mrx-receivers-300-500-700-owners-thread-tweaking-guide/11700_100#post_22302713
> 
> 
> In case anybody is still interested: The cause for this problem that has been bugging me since I bought the mrx300 is finally found: Andrew from Anthem pinpointed it to a "rounding error inherent to single precision floating point processing". In other words, it is a byproduct of the normal DSP function in the Anthem and cannot be fixed. Everybody here has it, even if most don´t seem to notice it. According to Anthem It is still inside the distortion specifications, but audible under special circumstances like a loud, isolated bass tone, since it is modulated with the bass tone and has much higher frequency. Normally, it is masked by other frequency content. Just for your information. I have decided to live with it, since the pro of ARC outweigh the defect. I managed to reduce the noise by lowering bass level (with which the noise is correlates in volume) by 4 dB and raising for compensation the sub by 8 db. The result has more deep bass below 60 Hz and lacks in midbass around 100-200 Hz, but on the average it gives a similar bass impression without the noise.
Click to expand...


I'm not aware of that issue -- I've never used a gen 1 MRX.


However the DSP stuff in the new MRX is new so I'd be surprised if that carries over. I've certainly not encountered a problem like that in my testing of the MRX 710.

--Bob


----------



## Apgood

Thank Bob.


Yeah I know that you haven't used the gen1 just curious if it was something that's been tested / addressed in the gen2. Not particularly concerned as haven't noticed myself. Just curious.


----------



## porschetech

Just purchased a D2v 3D........should be here Tuesday. Kinda excited and don't know what to expect due to the fact I upgraded from a D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ That gives you a few days to practice hopping up and down in glee.









--Bob


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41730#post_23806319
> 
> 
> ^ That gives you a few days to practice hopping up and down in glee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



Bob just remember I'll be pestering you for the next few weeks. Months, etc. you've been warned


----------



## obie_fl

I did the same upgrade a few months back... I was leery at first but it was a decent upgrade and I'm glad I did it.


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41730#post_23806741
> 
> 
> I did the same upgrade a few months back... I was leery at first but it was a decent upgrade and I'm glad I did it.


Thanks for the heads up. Laying down that kinda money is a lil overwhelming. I hope to see and hear improvements.


I read some where that the d2v's have electrical issues? True or false?


What did you find different and what impressed you the most?


Anyone want a mint D2????


----------



## obie_fl

I bought and sold my units through the 'bay" and it was still over $3K difference. A big chunk of $$$ but not as bad as going brand new. Haven't heard of or experienced any electrical issues. I upgraded mostly for the additional and pass-thru HDMI ports. What surprised me and I guess I shouldn't have been since others have reported it too, was a decent improvement in sound quality.


----------



## Texas steve


So have they given up on updating the D2Vs w/o 3d board?


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41730#post_23807569
> 
> 
> I bought and sold my units through the 'bay" and it was still over $3K difference. A big chunk of $$$ but not as bad as going brand new. Haven't heard of or experienced any electrical issues. I upgraded mostly for the additional and pass-thru HDMI ports. What surprised me and I guess I shouldn't have been since others have reported it too, was a decent improvement in sound quality.


Exactly why I wanted it......additional hdmi ports.


----------



## dseliger

I have a d2v3d forsale on the classified if anyone is looking.


This can be sold through my dealer if needed.


----------



## Tolstoi

I wowned both a D2 and D2V upgraded to D2V 3D and never experienced any electrical issues and I never hear of anybody experiencing such an issue?


----------



## Tolstoi

Update are available I jus upgraded my first generation of D2V with the new video board to get the 3D.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41730#post_23807613
> 
> 
> So have they given up on updating the D2Vs w/o 3d board?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41730#post_23809558
> 
> 
> Update are available I jus upgraded my first generation of D2V with the new video board to get the 3D.



I think Texas steve was asking if Anthem was going to make firmware updates for the non-3D D2v pre/pro, for those of us who have no need or desire to get the 3D hardware upgrade.


Nick??


----------



## Texas steve


YEs Tngiloy that was my question, non 3D D2vers want to keep current, we just don't need/want the 3D or pass tough.   So the question remains Nick - are they working on the surround issue that showed up on the latest update and are we (non 3d D2V) going to see future upgrades?

 

Steve


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Interesting RS-232 behavior in conjunction with URC remote. I am setting up RS-232 for control of the D2V from my MX-5000/MRX-2 combination, and have noticed an interesting, and repeatable, failure condition. If you are controlling the volume up/down on the D2V via an RS-232 based MX-5000, and you hold down either of them to speed up the "ramp" of the volume, it works quite nicely. But hold it down for too long, say 10 seconds or so, and the D2V will "lock up" completely and refuse to answer any subsequent RS-232 commands. Not just volume commands, but ANY commands. It's almost like you've "flooded" the system and it gives up the ghost. Powering the D2V off then waiting and powering back on DOES NOT solve it. Nor does unplugging and reseating the URC cable from the MRX-2 to the D2V (tried both ends of that cable). Even tried flashing the MX-5000 and restarting it to no effect. I even tried Restoring Factory Defaults on the D2V and then setting the D2V back to baud rate of 9600 (my chosen rate on both ends) and that DOES NOT fix it either.


The ONLY way I've been able to get the D2V to respond again after provoking the failure condition is to reload the 3.09 software via PC and then reconnect the URC MRX-2 afterwards. Then it will work again, until such time as some family member holds down volume too long! Then it's back to the salt mines! By the way, before anyone says "flow control", I actually tried using RTS/CTS on the D2V and the same failure condition exists.


Thoughts there detectives of RS-232??? Thanks as always.


-Brian


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Bob,


Found an old post from you back in 11/09 in which you say the following. It seems even your old posts are quite eye-opening! My question is "does this still apply today in a 3.09 world"? If so, I think I may switch to using Frame Lock set to Auto for my Oppo bluray player. That way, as you point out, I would not need to remember to switch to my "DVD-Widescreen" input when playing a blu-ray that is a live music concert that is natively 1080i/60 video shot. I could leave my input on the one I call simply "Bluray" (and that has a normal video output config of 1080p/24).


> Quote:
> With Frame Lock OFF the video output is always just what you have specified in your Video Output Configuration.
> 
> 
> For example, I use 1080p/24 input for Blu-Ray movies from my Oppo, with Frame Lock OFF and with a 768p/60 Video Output Configuration.
> 
> 
> The D2v scales the image and does the frame rate conversion. Raising /24 to /60 is easy -- the D2v just has to apply a repeat cadence.
> 
> 
> If you have a display that accepts 1080p/24 and "does the right thing" with it, you could also have a Video Output Configuration for 1080p/24. Then you could set up a Source for playing 1080p/24 input from your Blu-Ray player which uses that 1080p/24 Video Output Configuration.
> 
> 
> Of course you would need to manually switch to your 1080p/60 Video Output when playing "live concert" style Blu-Ray discs -- which are 1080i/60 and video-based.
> 
> 
> OR, you could set Frame Lock AUTO on your original Source. When the input is 1080p/24 (from Blu-Ray movies), the 1080p/24 Video Output configuration would be used unaltered. But when the input is 1080i/60 (from Blu-ray "live concert" style discs), the Video Output would automatically switch to 1080p/60.
> 
> 
> You would still need a separate 1080p/60 Video Output configuration for use with other Sources.
> 
> 
> What's new is that Frame Lock AUTO will now also enable the extraction of the original /24 stream from 1080i/60 (and soon from 480i/60) input that happens to be film-based. E.g., HDTV movies.
> 
> 
> So once again you would use a 1080p/24 Video Output configuration, and you would use Frame Lock AUTO. The difference now is that when the input is 1080i/60 -- instead of immediately shifting the output to /60, the new software will FIRST check to see if it can extract a /24 video stream from that /60 input. And if so it will DO THAT, and LEAVE the Video Output at /24.
> 
> 
> What happens in that case if Frame Lock is OFF? Well this will also disable the extraction of the /24 video from the input stream. So the processor will see a /60 video input stream and will try to force it to the /24 you have specified as your Video Output. But that can not be done in any useful fashion. There's no good way to decide which frames to discard. So you will see stuttering of the video.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41730#post_23819808
> 
> 
> Interesting RS-232 behavior in conjunction with URC remote. I am setting up RS-232 for control of the D2V from my MX-5000/MRX-2 combination, and have noticed an interesting, and repeatable, failure condition. If you are controlling the volume up/down on the D2V via an RS-232 based MX-5000, and you hold down either of them to speed up the "ramp" of the volume, it works quite nicely. But hold it down for too long, say 10 seconds or so, and the D2V will "lock up" completely and refuse to answer any subsequent RS-232 commands. Not just volume commands, but ANY commands. It's almost like you've "flooded" the system and it gives up the ghost. Powering the D2V off then waiting and powering back on DOES NOT solve it. Nor does unplugging and reseating the URC cable from the MRX-2 to the D2V (tried both ends of that cable). Even tried flashing the MX-5000 and restarting it to no effect. I even tried Restoring Factory Defaults on the D2V and then setting the D2V back to baud rate of 9600 (my chosen rate on both ends) and that DOES NOT fix it either.
> 
> 
> The ONLY way I've been able to get the D2V to respond again after provoking the failure condition is to reload the 3.09 software via PC and then reconnect the URC MRX-2 afterwards. Then it will work again, until such time as some family member holds down volume too long! Then it's back to the salt mines! By the way, before anyone says "flow control", I actually tried using RTS/CTS on the D2V and the same failure condition exists.
> 
> 
> Thoughts there detectives of RS-232??? Thanks as always.
> 
> 
> -Brian



Small piece of good news regarding the above - it turns out that there is another way to get the D2V to respond again following a provocation of the failure condition - you can power off the D2V, and turn off the switch on the back above the power supply. Waiting about 5 minutes or more, I turned it back on and powered it up and had RS232 control back again. That is VERY good, as it means I won't have to haul out my laptop and re-flash the software every time this happens. I still want to resolve the root issue here and not rely on silly workarounds. It almost seems like a buffer condition is reached and it stops all RS232 communication. The only way to get it back is to essentially "clear the signaling buffers" or something by cutting all power to the device and cold booting it.


All thoughts are welcome. Thanks again.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41730#post_23819808
> 
> 
> Interesting RS-232 behavior in conjunction with URC remote. I am setting up RS-232 for control of the D2V from my MX-5000/MRX-2 combination, and have noticed an interesting, and repeatable, failure condition. If you are controlling the volume up/down on the D2V via an RS-232 based MX-5000, and you hold down either of them to speed up the "ramp" of the volume, it works quite nicely. But hold it down for too long, say 10 seconds or so, and the D2V will "lock up" completely and refuse to answer any subsequent RS-232 commands. Not just volume commands, but ANY commands. It's almost like you've "flooded" the system and it gives up the ghost. Powering the D2V off then waiting and powering back on DOES NOT solve it. Nor does unplugging and reseating the URC cable from the MRX-2 to the D2V (tried both ends of that cable). Even tried flashing the MX-5000 and restarting it to no effect. I even tried Restoring Factory Defaults on the D2V and then setting the D2V back to baud rate of 9600 (my chosen rate on both ends) and that DOES NOT fix it either.
> 
> 
> The ONLY way I've been able to get the D2V to respond again after provoking the failure condition is to reload the 3.09 software via PC and then reconnect the URC MRX-2 afterwards. Then it will work again, until such time as some family member holds down volume too long! Then it's back to the salt mines! By the way, before anyone says "flow control", I actually tried using RTS/CTS on the D2V and the same failure condition exists.
> 
> 
> Thoughts there detectives of RS-232??? Thanks as always.
> 
> 
> -Brian


Have you tried power cycling the URC?


Flow control only work if both ends of the cable are configured to use it.


I've not done much of anything with the RS-232 control stuff, but I believe one of the common issues is whether or not the Anthem is set to echo back incoming commands. If the URC does not need that, then you could turn that off in the Anthem. I.e., the problem may be one of overwhelming the return input buffer in the URC.

--Bob


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41760#post_23819953
> 
> 
> Have you tried power cycling the URC?
> 
> 
> Flow control only work if both ends of the cable are configured to use it.
> 
> 
> I've not done much of anything with the RS-232 control stuff, but I believe one of the common issues is whether or not the Anthem is set to echo back incoming commands. If the URC does not need that, then you could turn that off in the Anthem. I.e., the problem may be one of overwhelming the return input buffer in the URC.
> 
> --Bob



Yeah, thanks Bob. I have the same symptoms whether the Return Status is enabled on the D2V or not. In fact, I purposely disabled this on both the D2V and the URC settings for the MX-5000, even though I ultimately will want to use them, just in an effort to isolate the cause of the problem. I started with the simplest of setups in other words, just 9600 baud rate, no flow control, and no return status on either end. It still fails. Then it fails the exact same way when I enabled Flow Control. Then it fails the exact same way when I enable TX Status feedback on the D2V and on the MX-5000 URC side. I get the feedback for Volume/Mute in this last case, but I can still provoke the failure condition the exact same way as the other tests. So, it would seem that the variables I've tested do not matter.


Oh and yes I tried rebooting the MX-5000 remote, no luck.


-Brian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Can you add a short delay on the Volume Up/Down commands issued by the URC over RS232? A bit of a slowdown may enable the Anthem to keep up and avoid overrun.

--bob


----------



## obie_fl

I was going to recommend pulling the plug on the D2 same as the switch on back but you got it.


Bob beat me to it too but I was thinking maybe a delay in between commands. I'm using iRule and a Global Cache RS232 and haven't seen this. Maybe I'll play with the volume some more and see if I can kill it.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41760#post_23820087
> 
> 
> I was going to recommend pulling the plug on the D2 same as the switch on back but you got it.
> 
> 
> Bob beat me to it too but I was thinking maybe a delay in between commands. I'm using iRule and a Global Cache RS232 and haven't seen this. Maybe I'll play with the volume some more and see if I can kill it.



Interesting. What baud rate do you use?? I'm starting to wonder if I jack up the baud rate on both ends to something very high that maybe the D2V will keep up in "racing" conditions of flooding more commands. And yeah, please do let me know if you can mimic the behavior I'm seeing on it. I will try and introduce delays in the macro (easily done), but I don't want to reduce the functionality of a button as important as volume up and down buttons.


Thanks.


----------



## porschetech

Gonna be a late one tonight. Gonna set up the d2v in a few


----------



## porschetech

Ok all set up and working.......love it!! Only 1 downside so far. My OSD works on the pre/pro display, but not on the TV screen. Is this normal? I can't figure it out and my d2 had it


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41760#post_23821403
> 
> 
> Ok all set up and working.......love it!! Only 1 downside so far. My OSD works on the pre/pro display, but not on the TV screen. Is this normal? I can't figure it out and my d2 had it



No it's certainly not normal. The osd to the TV should be working fine.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41760_40#post_23821496
> 
> 
> 
> No it's certainly not normal. The osd to the TV should be working fine.


OSD only works on HDMI 1 out


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41760#post_23821403
> 
> 
> Ok all set up and working.......love it!! Only 1 downside so far. My OSD works on the pre/pro display, but not on the TV screen. Is this normal? I can't figure it out and my d2 had it





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41760#post_23821729
> 
> 
> OSD only works on HDMI 1 out



In Source Setup do you have the Scaler Input set to THROUGH ? The OSD will not display on your Video display.


----------



## porschetech

ok i think i should have added some more info. i can access the setup screen no problem and do all the settings via the OSD. what i'm not getting (which i liked) was the display on the tv whilst using remote. i.e......volume, mute, input, etc. i had all this on the D2 and was it omitted on the D2V?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Make sure you are using the upper (Main) HDMI output from the D2v to your display. The on-screen text generator for things like Volume is only available on that output.


If you are using that output and still not getting it, then go into Setup and recheck your settings for the on-screen display to make sure you haven't accidentally turned that off.


See Section 3.12 of the Manual.


The on-screen text is also not available for any Setup > Source Setup which is set to use "THROUGH" video mode -- i.e., when watching 3D content.

--Bob


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41760#post_23823202
> 
> 
> ^ Make sure you are using the upper (Main) HDMI output from the D2v to your display. The on-screen text generator for things like Volume is only available on that output.
> 
> 
> If you are using that output and still not getting it, then go into Setup and recheck your settings for the on-screen display to make sure you haven't accidentally turned that off.
> 
> 
> See Section 3.12 of the Manual.
> 
> 
> The on-screen text is also not available for any Setup > Source Setup which is set to use "THROUGH" video mode -- i.e., when watching 3D content.
> 
> --Bob



thanks bob.....will recheck everything tonight. i'm using the top 4 hdmi inputs only. fingers crossed i'll get it working and keep you updated


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The key here is the OUTPUT. There are two HDMI outputs, one above the other. Only the upper one -- the Main HDMI Output -- has that text generator in its signal path.

--Bob


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41760#post_23823340
> 
> 
> ^ The key here is the OUTPUT. There are two HDMI outputs, one above the other. Only the upper one -- the Main HDMI Output -- has that text generator in its signal path.
> 
> --Bob


yes that one is plugged in its correct location. i connected all my sources on the top line of hdmi's


----------



## Thxtheater

*ARC and Parallels?*


I'm looking to migrate laptops and I've previously used bootcamp on a 7+ year old laptop. I'd like to use Parallels to run ARC on my AVM50v 3D. Any issues that we are aware of? I'm still running XP to do all ARC measurements.


Thanks all!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The only issue you are likely to run into is whether it plays nice with the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter. ARC doesn't actually use anything fancy in Windows except for the media framework (part of the default XP install) which lets it get to the microphone. A long LONG time ago we had reports here that VMWare wasn't working well with the Keyspan adapter, and a Belkin adapter fixed that. There have been newer versions of VMWare since then, and no recent reports of problems. I don't recall any complaints about Parallels re using ARC.


On my setup (Bootcamp) I had to go to Windows 7 (Home Premium, 32-bit) because support for XP got dropped in Bootcamp for the latest Mac OS X. Turns out you can get an OEM configuration install disc of Windows 7 from Amazon (primarily sold to people building computers) which is a good deal cheaper than the normal version, at the expense of offering NO free support from Microsoft, and being signature locked to the first hardware you install it on.

--Bob


----------



## porschetech

does it matter what arc kit to use? i think my D2 has arc 3.0 and the d2v has 2.04


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ ARC v3.0.2 (available from the D2v software downloads section of the Anthem web site) is the correct version to use for both the D2 and the D2v (with or without 3D) as well as the AVM 50, 50v, and 50v/3D.


Did you buy a used D2V? Don't bother installing that v2.0.4 ARC, and if you've already installed it go into Windows Control Panel's section for programs and uninstall it (then reboot).


Download and unzip the ARC v3.0.2 install kit from the Anthem site. Open up the folder that results and dive in a few levels to find the Setup.Exe program -- which is the installer itself.


Now insert that outdated ARC install disc that came with your D2v. If the installer on it starts up automatically just Quit out of it. On the CD, dive in again until you find the same Setup.Exe program. In that same location on the CD you will find two files with names made up of numbers. Check that the pair of numbers on each of them match the Serial # of your D2v and the Serial # of the ARC mic that came with your D2v. (If not, email Anthem Tech Support and explain the discrepancy -- telling them the correct Serial #s for your D2v and your ARC mic -- and they can email you the pair of files you need). These two files are your ARC license and your ARC mic's individual calibration data file.


Do not use those 2 files if the numbers are wrong, as you will get bad mic data when using the wrong mic calibration file.


Presuming the numbers are right, copy those two files from the CD to the location where you found Setup.EXE in the downloaded ARC v3.0.2 stuff. You are now done with the CD and should eject it.


In the downloaded ARC v3.0.2 stuff, run the Setup.EXE program you previously found (the installer). It will install ARC v3.0.2, and copy those two files to the right location as part of the install. Reboot after the install. You only have to do this stuff with the CD once, as those two files are preserved in the installed location when you install later versions of ARC, even if you uninstall ARC v3.0.2 first. But save the CD in case you need those two numbered files in the future for some newer computer (for example).

--Bob


----------



## porschetech

^^^^^ yes i bought a used D2v with 3D installed. i saw the kit said 2.04 on the side. whereas the D2 kit is brand new and never been used. it says 3.0 on the side of it. i was wondering if there was a difference in the kits or is it just whats on the cd?


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41760#post_23823644
> 
> 
> ^ The only issue you are likely to run into is whether it plays nice with the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter. ARC doesn't actually use anything fancy in Windows except for the media framework (part of the default XP install) which lets it get to the microphone. A long LONG time ago we had reports here that VMWare wasn't working well with the Keyspan adapter, and a Belkin adapter fixed that. There have been newer versions of VMWare since then, and no recent reports of problems. I don't recall any complaints about Parallels re using ARC.
> 
> 
> On my setup (Bootcamp) I had to go to Windows 7 (Home Premium, 32-bit) because support for XP got dropped in Bootcamp for the latest Mac OS X. Turns out you can get an OEM configuration install disc of Windows 7 from Amazon (primarily sold to people building computers) which is a good deal cheaper than the normal version, at the expense of offering NO free support from Microsoft, and being signature locked to the first hardware you install it on.
> 
> --Bob



I can confirm that under the most current build of Parallels I can run XP and was able to successfully have the Anthem microphone and the Keyspan-19HS recognized. I obviously needed to install the drivers for the Keyspan for it to be recognized properly. I didn't do a full measurement; I only started, got the sweep tones, then aborted. I'll see what I can do over the weekend for a full test.


I'm inferring that there would be no issues running this via Parallels as a result.


Theo


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41760#post_23824050
> 
> 
> ^^^^^ yes i bought a used D2v with 3D installed. i saw the kit said 2.04 on the side. whereas the D2 kit is brand new and never been used. it says 3.0 on the side of it. i was wondering if there was a difference in the kits or is it just whats on the cd?



No it's just what's on the CD. As long as those numerically named files match the serial number of the D2v and the ARC mic, you are good to go. Just install ARC v3.0.2 -- with those two files -- as instructed.

--Bob


----------



## porschetech

Ok another question. How does one know if it has the 3d board installed? Anything in setup menu? It's version 3.09 if that helps.


Also I still can't figure out why I can't see why my info won't show up on the screen when using remote. I shouldn't have to walk up to the pre/pro to see what my volume is or how much bass, treble, db gain, etc


Do the D2v's have a splash logo when powering up? Mine doesn't have the logo like the D2 did


----------



## DS-21




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41700_100#post_23824420
> 
> 
> I can confirm that under the most current build of Parallels I can run XP and was able to successfully have the Anthem microphone and the Keyspan-19HS recognized. I obviously needed to install the drivers for the Keyspan for it to be recognized properly. I didn't do a full measurement; I only started, got the sweep tones, then aborted. I'll see what I can do over the weekend for a full test.
> 
> 
> I'm inferring that there would be no issues running this via Parallels as a result.
> 
> 
> Theo



Dunno about the D2V variant, but the MRX variant of ARC works fine on a Mac over Parallels.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41760#post_23824648
> 
> 
> Ok another question. How does one know if it has the 3d board installed? Anything in setup menu? It's version 3.09 if that helps.
> 
> 
> Also I still can't figure out why I can't see why my info won't show up on the screen when using remote. I shouldn't have to walk up to the pre/pro to see what my volume is or how much bass, treble, db gain, etc
> 
> 
> Do the D2v's have a splash logo when powering up? Mine doesn't have the logo like the D2 did



Press the SELECT button on the remote. The D2v display should display on the top line - D2v 3D and the firmware verson installed


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41760#post_23825105
> 
> 
> Press the SELECT button on the remote. The D2v display should display on the top line - D2v 3D and the firmware verson installed


Hmm......I hope I wasn't scammed. Just says D2v v3.09


----------



## AVfile

There was a firmware bug that omitted the "3D" in the Status text. It should show it during the power-up "splash screen" though.


Please do a factory reset to load all the defaults. The previous owner may have set an option to display a custom splash screen and move/disable the OSD.


After doing that and you have confirmed it is a 3D model, install the 3.10 firmware. The Status text bug will be gone and it will say 3D.


If it is not a 3D model then you will need the last good beta - 3.09j or thereabouts.


----------



## porschetech

^^^ ok I just did reset. I still didn't see splash logo (took a while to power up though) and still only displays D2v v3.09


Now I'm getting concerned. Seller was adamant it has 3D board installed. He said I could see it. I must admit the top 4 hdmi inputs looked new from behind. He also told me to call anthem to confirm it has 3D.


----------



## AVfile

It could still be the firmware bug I mentioned. There is no graphical splash logo if that's what you mean. Just the banner "ANTHEM D2V 3D A/V PROCESSOR" as soon as you apply power and a similar one when you shut down.


If you go into a Source Setup menu can you see an option for Vid Out Cfg: Through?


----------



## porschetech

Yeah that's correct. No banner stating what the pre/pro is. Also I did check vid out config 1. I scroll down to COMPNT 2 OUT : Processed. I can then select passthru, zone 2 or off. Is that what you mean?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41760#post_23825256
> 
> 
> ^^^ ok I just did reset. I still didn't see splash logo (took a while to power up though) and still only displays D2v v3.09
> 
> 
> Now I'm getting concerned. Seller was adamant it has 3D board installed. He said I could see it. I must admit the top 4 hdmi inputs looked new from behind. He also told me to call anthem to confirm it has 3D.



OK, a common problem -- and one that may explain your issue with the on-screen display as well. After the 3D board change out is made, the V3.09 (or later) firmware has to be RE-INSTALLED to properly initialize that hardware.


Once done, if the 3D hardware is really there the unit will identify itself as an "Anthem D2v 3D" during the initial power-up display in the Front Panel. (NOT on your TV screen.)


Since you are going to re-install the firmware anyway, I suggest you give Anthem Tech Support a call and ask them to give you the access info to download v3.10, which is now the "Official" firmware for the units with 3D.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41760#post_23825280
> 
> 
> Yeah that's correct. No banner stating what the pre/pro is. Also I did check vid out config 1. I scroll down to COMPNT 2 OUT : Processed. I can then select passthru, zone 2 or off. Is that what you mean?



Not in Video Output menu. Source Setup.


Download the addendum to the user manual and you'll see.


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41790#post_23825318
> 
> 
> OK, a common problem -- and one that may explain your issue with the on-screen display as well. After the 3D board change out is made, the V3.09 (or later) firmware has to be RE-INSTALLED to properly initialize that hardware.
> 
> 
> Once done, if the 3D hardware is really there the unit will identify itself as an "Anthem D2v 3D" during the initial power-up display in the Front Panel. (NOT on your TV screen.)
> 
> 
> Since you are going to re-install the firmware anyway, I suggest you give Anthem Tech Support a call and ask them to give you the access info to download v3.10, which is now the "Official" firmware for the units with 3D.
> 
> --Bob



Bob, I was told by Piero at Anthem just last week that 3.10 is NOT ready for primetime which was why it was not posted on the public website as the official current version. If you know differently or that has changed, that's another story. I was specifically told to stay on 3.09 because 3.10 had known "flaws" even for folks with the 3D board. His words not mine.


That said, Porsche guy, you can just install 3.09 right over the top of the 3.09 you have now (as Bob says, it's required to install again *after* the 3D board is installed and the old owner may not have done that). It certainly wont' hurt anything, so load it again. Then you can see the "3D" not only when it powers up on the display of the D2V itself, but also if you hit the "Status" button on the front of the D2V. The very first Status toggle screen should say "D2V 3D v3.09" and the second line of it will say the day of week and the time. "Friday 6:49AM" for instance. There is no bug that I'm aware of that would prevent you from seeing the letters "3D" in that first toggle screen of the "Status" button on the faceplate of the D2V.


Let us know what you're seeing.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

Just wanted to wrap up my "dual control RS-232 for the D2V saga" with what will be hopefully be a helpful tip to anyone else that comes along that may want/need to do this. I ended up finding a nice, simple little passive device (no power needed) that performs this duty perfectly. Thanks to Korey here as well as the folks at Remote Central and the helpful folks at B-B Electronics, the quest is over for a proper solution for dual RS-232 control without having to physically swap anything out! And for much less money than other companies with similar technology were asking.


Here is a link to the product I ended up using:

http://www.bb-elec.com/Products/Serial-Connectivity/Serial-Data-Tools-Adapters/Port-Splitters/9PMDS.aspx 


Works great. Allows me to control my D2V constantly via RS-232 to my URC gear while also having a cable connected and spooled up on the outside of my rack at all times, ready to un-spool and use for firmware updates to the D2V or ARC uploading, etc. etc. All without ever having to pull out the rack and get behind the D2V in any way. If anyone cares, I'm continuing to use 9600 baud rate now for all connections to the D2V (which would be required for ARC to work anyway). I had tried higher baud rates because of some URC functions not playing perfectly, but in the end 9600 was best and has the advantage of never needing to be changed. I also am using the Rear IR inputs for "good old-fashioned IR" as a secondary connection in case I opt to use a non-IP based remote (like RF only remotes) from another Zone in the house in the future (or for whatever needs may come along). So far, RS-232 is rock solid and once I finish programming my other components, I will be exploring some of the more extensive "string variable" functions whereby the URC gear can query the D2V for status on input, surround processing, power status, etc. and based on the RS-232 status response back to the URC from the D2V, will allow certain actions to be taken as a result. I will be making heavy use of the "if/else" variables in URC.


In the meantime, I'm just all geeked out because I now have the 2-way Volume and Mute Pop-up working on my MX-5000 and it's totally new for me to be able to see directly on the remote what the decibel level is for the zone I'm controlling. Mute causes the decibel level to flash yellow, alerting you that sound is muted. It's a goofy little feature, but I love it! I routinely curse and praise the URC gear, and software, sometimes in the same breath, but I am psyched that the Anthem gear is supported in one of their "2way modules" for the volume/mute pop-ups.


Hope this helps somebody out there some day.


-Brian


----------



## AVfile

^ Good stuff, Man! You've definitely surpassed what I've achieved with my MX-1200.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41790#post_23825519
> 
> 
> There is no bug that I'm aware of that would prevent you from seeing the letters "3D" in that first toggle screen of the "Status" button on the faceplate of the D2V.



Right. I dug up the old post and it was in pre-v3 firmware, so fixed a long time ago...


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/36660#post_21947259
> 
> 
> The V2.14b "test" firmware now identifies a unit with the 3D "pass through" hardware upgrade installed by saying the unit is a "STATEMENT D2v 3D" in the front panel during power up.
> 
> 
> 
> This is how you will be able to distinguish upgraded units in the used equipment market for example.


----------



## porschetech

love you guys!


ok......instructions on how to update firmware? in the manual?


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41790#post_23826659
> 
> 
> love you guys!
> 
> 
> ok......instructions on how to update firmware? in the manual?



Got an old PC with a serial port? You'll need that, or alternatively a USB-to-serial adapter like the Keyspan. Search the thread there's plenty of info on it. I use an old PC with a serial port for just this task.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41790#post_23826659
> 
> 
> love you guys!
> 
> 
> ok......instructions on how to update firmware? in the manual?



Instructions are in the Manual. You need to Reset Factory Defaults before doing a firmware Install. Typically you can Save & Restore Settings across the install, but since some of the settings are saved on the Video Board, and you have new hardware here, I'm not sure all the settings will restore after this install, so jot down your settings ahead of time anyway, "just in case".


The only other important trick is to make sure you have no live HDMI connections (sources or displays) during the firmware install. Since modern HDMI devices tend to keep their HDMI sockets live even when the are supposedly "OFF", the safest thing to do is to start by removing wall power from every HDMI device in your setup prior to doing the install.


The install goes pretty quick (about 15 minutes) EXCEPT when the video board needs reprogramming -- that about triples the install time. Do not be alarmed if the progress bar shown by the installer seems to start over and over and over again while programming the video board. That's intentional as the programming is done in many, smaller chunks for increased reliability. Since you've already got v3.09 in there, the video board may not need reprogramming -- it just has to be given a chance to recognize the new HDMI hardware.

--Bob


----------



## porschetech

yeps.....got the keyspan. will try it tonight. it better have it installed or i'm going to be angry!!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ OK, also make sure your Windows computer doesn't go to Sleep or switch to Screen Saver during the install. If you don't know how to disable that stuff in Windows, just move the mouse cursor a bit periodically during the install to let Windows know you are still there. (Don't click on anything -- just move the cursor a bit.)

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

When you run the installer pay attention to the instructions before pressing Upload. They are a good reminder in case you forget anything in the Bob Notes version. I always forget the first few steps!


----------



## porschetech

windows 7 compatible?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes.

--Bob


----------



## porschetech

thanks bob......sent message to seller to get nfo out of him. he told me it was sent to anthem for the install. so if thats correct, why isn't it working? i don't see a dealer messng that up


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If it really went back to Anthem (the factory), then of course they'd get it right.


However, the Anthem Dealers *OFTEN* forget the step of doing the firmware re-install. If the unit powers up and shows it is v3.09 already, they just assume that's enough.


The same thing happened when original AVM 50 owners had dealers install the ARC upgrade board.

--Bob


----------



## porschetech

i guess that makes sense. the seller just gave me the dealers number and name of installer. i shall be calling shortly



just spoke with the dealer that did the installation. said he installed the board and did the firmware update, but didn't test to see if the 3d features worked (on screen text, the d2v 3d on display when booting, pass thru and splash logo). so i have a few choices. try to fix it myself tonight, drop off to local dealer and they foot the bill or goes direct to anthem. this hasn't been a smooth purchase whatsoever


----------



## joealbracht

I had similar problems with a D2V upgraded to a D2V 3D. Dealer installed the board but left the software at version 2 something. The D2V 3D powered up but didn't work at all when I got it after the upgrade. I installed 3.09 & it fixed that problem. Install is simple as long as you follow the directions provided.


----------



## porschetech

hopefully all goes well tonight. now have to remember where i placed my keyspan


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It will be in the last place you look for it.

--Bob


----------



## porschetech

hahahaha........never used it too. i just know i have one somewhere!


----------



## Thxtheater

Just to report back, I went through the whole process tonight and running ARC on the latest build of parallels was flawless. All I had to do was install the Keyspan driver. I had the option to permanently assign the ARC-1 microphone and the Keyspan to the windows VM and I did that.


I ran everything on Windows XP. So good news there.


----------



## porschetech

I guess I didn't have a keyspan, but another branded adapter. Hour later I gave up. Seems like the cable I bought was counterfeit. So I guess I'll be searching tomorrow for a keyspan. I don't think I've ever had so much hassle trying to get something to function 100%!


----------



## thestewman

There is an adv right here on AVS that says Sears & Kmart have the Keyspan for 29.95 and in stock


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41790#post_23827411
> 
> 
> i guess that makes sense. the seller just gave me the dealers number and name of installer. i shall be calling shortly
> 
> 
> 
> just spoke with the dealer that did the installation. said he installed the board and did the firmware update, but didn't test to see if the 3d features worked (on screen text, the d2v 3d on display when booting, pass thru and splash logo). so i have a few choices. try to fix it myself tonight, drop off to local dealer and they foot the bill or goes direct to anthem. this hasn't been a smooth purchase whatsoever



Your dealer should have tested the unit before shipping it what he did his not professional.


I did the board upgrade and here are my recommandation


The keyspan is a mus

Installing 3.10 is a must


Before installing 3.10 unplug all hdmi, reset setting to factory setting, plug the keyspan, togle the D2V power on switch. Than install.


Afther install the unit will show 3.10 and indicate that unit is 3D.


----------



## Tolstoi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joealbracht*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41790#post_23827925
> 
> 
> I had similar problems with a D2V upgraded to a D2V 3D. Dealer installed the board but left the software at version 2 something. The D2V 3D powered up but didn't work at all when I got it after the upgrade. I installed 3.09 & it fixed that problem. Install is simple as long as you follow the directions provided.



The installation of the new board also requires to install new sets of internal cables. If the right cable are not install the, if by accident he kerp the old cable the unpper hdmi will not work properlly. The only way to test all that is to upgrade the unit to 3.10 and test that 3d work at least on one of the upper hdmi port.


----------



## porschetech

This thing is giving me a headache


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41790#post_23828546
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The keyspan is a mus
> 
> Installing 3.10 is a must
> 
> 
> Before installing 3.10 unplug all hdmi, reset setting to factory setting, plug the keyspan, togle the D2V power on switch. Than install.
> 
> 
> Afther install the unit will show 3.10 and indicate that unit is 3D.




The benefits to 3.10


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41790#post_23828637
> 
> 
> This thing is giving me a headache



When you said you thought the cable was the problem did you mean your non-Keyspan adapter or the serial cable.


The serial cable needs to be a "straight through" cable -- pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9. It is possible to get an identical looking cable by mistake that swaps one pair of wires -- sometimes called a "Null Modem" cable -- and that type of cable won't work.


This being Windows -- and thus a nuisance -- you also need to make sure you've got the up to date driver for your non-Keyspan adapter; the driver appropriate to your particular flavor of Windows. Get that from the web site of whoever made that adapter. If you install a new driver, be sure to reboot Windows afterwards.


Serial adapters are notoriously finicky, so that's why everyone pushes folks here to get the Keyspan (by Tripp Lite) USA-19HS. It's the one known to work the most reliably with the Anthem gear.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

  


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41790#post_23828637
> 
> 
> This thing is giving me a headache



I thought Anthem was including the Keyspan adapter with the D2v.

Before you buy or order one I suggest you check thru the D2v box to make sure you don't already have one. Its small enough that you may have missed it when unpacking the D2v.


Tom


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41790#post_23828637
> 
> 
> This thing is giving me a headache



PorscheTech huh? You should be used to these kinds of headaches  Seriously though, if you were an Audi tech, you'd have an old PC with an actual serial port to use VAGCOM or other scanner tools - and that same PC would be your solution for the D2V too, so you don't have to mess with adapters and drivers. [Though I guess they do make USB variants of that now]. Got me an old laptop that is used solely for serial applications like these. I can tune my turbo and my D2V with the same weapon! Imagine that - technology from the 60's that still works today (if only PC manufacturers left the damn serial ports on computers like the good Lord intended). Oh well...just remember, DO NOT try and use a Null Modem cable - you need a straight through serial cable. Simple as they come, all pins straight thru. Good luck to you sir!


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41820#post_23829195
> 
> 
> you'd have an old PC with an actual serial port to use VAGCOM or other scanner tools - and that same PC would be your solution for the D2V too, so you don't have to mess with adapters and drivers. [Though I guess they do make USB variants of that now]. Got me an old laptop that is used solely for serial applications like these. I can tune my turbo and my D2V with the same weapon! Imagine that - technology from the 60's that still works today (if only PC manufacturers left the damn serial ports on computers like the good Lord intended).


LOL, I was thinking the same thing. Used to run VAGCOM, had to upgrade to HEXUSB but Anthem and Lumagen still use RS-232.

Got a couple old Dell Latitude laptops kicking around, but if I ever decide to buy brand new it will be an HP Elitebook - still made today with a serial port!


----------



## porschetech

Thanks all the advice and tips. I managed to find a USB to serial cable at frys electronics. Bestbuy was a joke as they had very little knowledge about this type of cable. Anyways finally got he laptop to see my new cable and I'm now 15 mins into flashing the D2v. At this rate I think I'm gonna be here for another hour. This was going to be my last attempt to fix this. Otherwise it's going straight to anthem. I'll make sure seller foots the bill too.


Manwithaplan........yeps, Porsche tech here. Been working on cars for 25 yrs now. Hopefully next month I'll be gold meister. No vagcoms, but I know Audi and vdub uses em. I use Porsche piwis or PS2 testers. I know how frustrating it is flashing cars at work, but never expected this for a piece of HT equipment.


Fingers crossed!..... .....just got to 3rd segment. This is slooooooow progress.


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41790#post_23829101
> 
> 
> 
> I thought Anthem was including the Keyspan adapter with the D2v.
> 
> Before you buy or order one I suggest you check thru the D2v box to make sure you don't already have one. Its small enough that you may have missed it when unpacking the D2v.
> 
> 
> Tom



Good to know. I saw no keyspan in the box. I'll ask seller about it or anthem


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Depends how old your used D2v is. Anthem did not have a resale agreement for the Keyspan when the D2v first shipped. If your used unit came with its original, paper manual, there's an included items list near the front.

--Bob


----------



## porschetech

Over an hour and not even 1/2 way yet!



Success!!........on screen text back and D2v 3D now displays on pre/pro when powering up. No to see if the rest of the features works. Thanks to everyone here for making this work. I really appreciate the help


----------



## porschetech

anyone here have an anthem P5? i may look into getting one. was wondering if there's a massive difference between that an an A5 (which i have). from what i've read online, if you can get one, then jump on it


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Make sure you've got enough wall power amperage to power it. Expect to need an extra circuit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41820#post_23831430
> 
> 
> Over an hour and not even 1/2 way yet!
> 
> 
> 
> Success!!........on screen text back and D2v 3D now displays on pre/pro when powering up. No to see if the rest of the features works. Thanks to everyone here for making this work. I really appreciate the help



Cool! Be sure to let the dealer know that what they told you about having ALREADY done the firmware install was, umm, incorrect....


So how long did the install end up taking? It's possible that non-Keyspan adapter you were using was defaulting to a lower baud rate.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41820#post_23836437
> 
> 
> ^ Make sure you've got enough wall power amperage to power it. Expect to need an extra circuit.
> 
> --Bob



And the physical space. IMO the P5 is too big and the A5 is just right.


----------



## porschetech

Wow so that P5 is a waste? Too big and dual outlets required? I can't run 2 power cords from the Panamax to the amp?


Bob yeah it took a while. Possibly down to my hard drive acting up


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It's a great amp by all accounts. You just have to be prepared for the installation requirements.


You can't magically suck more amperage out of the Panamax than the wall circuit can provide. In fact, almost certainly less as the Panamax will impose its own limit.

--Bob


----------



## porschetech

I have the space to install it. Now I'm wondering how much bigger is it to the A5? So who has 2 seperate circuits in their home? Seems a bit much to power up an amp. I should ask the seller how they made it work.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41820#post_23837210
> 
> 
> I have the space to install it. Now I'm wondering how much bigger is it to the A5? So who has 2 seperate circuits in their home? Seems a bit much to power up an amp. I should ask the seller how they made it work.


The P5 has two power cords, and it's recommended to have it run off of a dedicated 30 amp outlet. I have heard some folks say that they are getting by with running it off of a 20 amp outlet; but, it can reach up to 3600 watts when really pushed which would be too much for a 20 amp outlet to handle. If you plan to listen at reasonable levels, then a 20 amp outlet would probably be ok.


----------



## porschetech

As of now I have no reason to push the amp harder than normal, but it would be nice to have on tap and hopefully way more than enough juice for a future upgrade to sig 8's (v2......v3 too rich for my blood).


If I were to purchase the P5, would $2000 be a fair market price for the A5?


----------



## AVfile

$2000 would be a fair price for the A5 like new in box. I paid $2200 for mine 3 years ago.


But I would keep it and add a P2 for the main fronts, then you could do 7.1 and no funky power outlets needed.


----------



## porschetech

I actually have a mca20 that I could use. I put it up for sale on my local Craigslist and not much traffic lately. I also listed a seismic 10 and a pair of studio 20v4's.......no takers.


----------



## gonzalc3

I just recently purchase a subwoofer, which has its own room correction system. Is there any advantage of first using the subwoofers own room correction and then use arc, vs just simply using arc?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41820#post_23845592
> 
> 
> I just recently purchase a subwoofer, which has its own room correction system. Is there any advantage of first using the subwoofers own room correction and then use arc, vs just simply using arc?



Christian,


The answer is a definite maybe. It all depends on how much correction is needed for your subwoofer. ARC is able to correct a lot of problems, but the less it has to correct the better it will work.

I would be willing to bet that most of the people on this thread use both ARC and their sub's own room correction.

*But the first thing you need to do is to get your sub positioned properly before adding any room correction.*


To do that I would first use the Quick Measure feature in the ARC tools to set up the subwoofer in its optimal position without any correction applied. If you can get the QM reading for the sub to look pretty good just by changing its position in your room, then just use ARC.


If, even after repositioning with the QM, there are still some pretty big peaks and dips then try using your sub's own room correction. Then run the ARC QM again, this time with your sub's room correction turned on. If the QM reading is better with the sub's room correction active, then use it in conjunction with ARC.

Hint--- you can use a screen capture tool to take a snapshot of your QM readings. I use Windows Snipping Tool. That way you can look at the before and after charts, and can post your pictures here for further evaluation.


Getting a sub dialed in isn't easy and takes some work. Getting multiple subs dialed in is even more difficult. But by using the Quick Measure tool and some muscle and time (and maybe some room treatments) you should be able to get a really good sounding solution. The time spent getting it right is well worth the hassle.


Post your charts here for help from the knowledgeable posters.


Good luck,

Tom


----------



## pinoy ako

I am using JL Audio ARO, Antimode 8033S-II, then ARC...awesome!


----------



## gerard1meehan

I currently have and use a P5. It is a heavy sucker at 113 lbs. I am using it on a 20 amp circuit utilizing a 10 gauge run directly to the panel. As for size I thought it was the same as the A2 & 5 as it is the same size (not weight) as the P2


In one of the reviews a tester used it without a specific run and had no issues


----------



## porschetech

i just found out that the P5 is @ 10 yrs old. kinda wonder if its worth buying and how much would anthem charge to service it??


----------



## Texas steve


The inside SURE looks like the BAT (Balanced Audio Technology) amp I have


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41820#post_23847472
> 
> 
> i just found out that the P5 is @ 10 yrs old. kinda wonder if its worth buying and how much would anthem charge to service it??


I have a p5, driving revel ultima II's. these speakers have dual 8" woofers, per side, and I drove them from a 15 amp (yes, 15 amp c/b with no problems. HOWEVER, I never drove them to the limits that would suck the juice for the neighborhood). Now that I have a dedicated H/T, I am hooked up with two 20amp C/B, dedicated to the amps. I was told by anthem that a 15 amp circuit would be ok so long as i did not try to entertain the neighbors.

Never had a problem. The best way, however, is to have dedicated subs, crossed as to minimize the draw required by the woofers in your prime speakers. (ARC a big help here )

Yes, it is a heavy amp, but a very solid build and generally, coasts thru much of what we show in the theater.

Walt


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41820#post_23845874
> 
> 
> Christian,
> 
> 
> The answer is a definite maybe. It all depends on how much correction is needed for your subwoofer. ARC is able to correct a lot of problems, but the less it has to correct the better it will work.
> 
> I would be willing to bet that most of the people on this thread use both ARC and their sub's own room correction.
> 
> *But the first thing you need to do is to get your sub positioned properly before adding any room correction.*
> 
> 
> To do that I would first use the Quick Measure feature in the ARC tools to set up the subwoofer in its optimal position without any correction applied. If you can get the QM reading for the sub to look pretty good just by changing its position in your room, then just use ARC.
> 
> 
> If, even after repositioning with the QM, there are still some pretty big peaks and dips then try using your sub's own room correction. Then run the ARC QM again, this time with your sub's room correction turned on. If the QM reading is better with the sub's room correction active, then use it in conjunction with ARC.
> 
> Hint--- you can use a screen capture tool to take a snapshot of your QM readings. I use Windows Snipping Tool. That way you can look at the before and after charts, and can post your pictures here for further evaluation.
> 
> 
> Getting a sub dialed in isn't easy and takes some work. Getting multiple subs dialed in is even more difficult. But by using the Quick Measure tool and some muscle and time (and maybe some room treatments) you should be able to get a really good sounding solution. The time spent getting it right is well worth the hassle.
> 
> 
> Post your charts here for help from the knowledgeable posters.
> 
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Tom



Thanks Tom!


I did took several measures by using a full measurement and found the optimal place.

Unfortunately, I couldn't find a placew ithout a dip but did found the one with the smallest. I will give it a shot with the sub's own correction and then run arc...


My room has been treated...


Cheers,


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41820#post_23847472
> 
> 
> i just found out that the P5 is @ 10 yrs old. kinda wonder if its worth buying and how much would anthem charge to service it??




I have an almost 20 year old Aragon 8008X5 that is not quite the monster of the P5 (5X 200W @ 8 ohm, 5X 400W at 4 ohm - all channels driven, 107 lbs). I definately do not need more amp than this. I have never found the upper limit of this amp, and I run it off of a dedicated 15A outlet.


I would not feel bad about a 10 year old amp. These things are quite simple inside and can be repaired if ever needed



Ed


----------



## Kris Deering

Unless you're driving insane load cells most people will never even approach the upper limits of an amp like the P5. Most people never approach the upper limits of smaller amps. Running an amp on a dedicated circuit never hurts (just taking it off the loop with all the other electronics in your house doesn't hurt) but I'd bet most people's gear could be run from a single 15 amp circuit in nearly every regard. (For the record I have four dedicated 20 amp circuits in my room, but I've never considered myself normal).


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41820#post_23849526
> 
> 
> Thanks Tom!
> 
> 
> I did took several measures by using a full measurement and found the optimal place.
> 
> Unfortunately, I couldn't find a placew ithout a dip but did found the one with the smallest. I will give it a shot with the sub's own correction and then run arc...
> 
> 
> My room has been treated...
> 
> 
> Cheers,



I think probably using both ARC and your sub's room correction together will work out best for you, but its a trial and error thing. How it sounds to you will be the determining factor.


Just a quick suggestion. If you don't want to use the Quick Measure feature (and I really think QM is a beautiful thing) then, while doing trial and error ARC runs to check out sub response, do a 2.1 set-up. Just fronts and sub. This is what I did to save time before the Quick Measure feature was added. Once you decide what you like best, then you can run the full 5.1/7.1 ARC run. I'm pretty sure this was a suggestion I got from Bob P when ARC was new.


Also remember that ARC does not adjust the phase between your sub and other speakers, or set distances for speakers. You will need to do this yourself. I have found the null method found in dmusoke's signature to be very helpful for phase matching sub-front speakers. Good luck.


Tom


----------



## p.las

hey.


i am in the need for a streaming thing. I have look on the Dunde HD base. Is there anybody in here that have experience with this one , in combination with AVM50v/D2.


My processor is a avm50v. My dealer have som costumers that have some issues with the Dune HD MAX and the AVM/D2 combination. the purpose is to rip all my Blurays in to a nas server. And stream it from there. A nice cover art. And user friendly. A am NOT a pc orakel. i have a great deal of movies. So it woud bee nice to


get some more space. 600 movies takes some space


Any help/experience will bee appreciated. other surgestions are velcome


----------



## CharlieU

I have the Dune HD Base 3.0 and it works well with the AVM-50v (non-3D). I don't have a huge number of movies, so I rip them full disk in order to have the menus. For storage I have a Synology NAS with 8TB's of Western Digital Red drives. Most of the issues I read about related to the Dune players have to do with the network and the way it handles certain types of file formats. I use the same settings in my 50v for the Dune as I do for my Oppo 103.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41820#post_23859378
> 
> 
> I have the Dune HD Base 3.0 and it works well with the AVM-50v (non-3D). I don't have a huge number of movies, so I rip them full disk in order to have the menus. For storage I have a Synology NAS with 8TB's of Western Digital Red drives. Most of the issues I read about related to the Dune players have to do with the network and the way it handles certain types of file formats. I use the same settings in my 50v for the Dune as I do for my Oppo 103.



so it perform flavless?. i will not use 3-D


what cover art do you use? i can see that many use the Zappiti, with ekstremely god result.


funny - the nas and the harddics is the same brandi will use. Thank a lot. I think i will go for the Dune HD base


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41820#post_23859378
> 
> 
> I have the Dune HD Base 3.0 and it works well with the AVM-50v (non-3D). I don't have a huge number of movies, so I rip them full disk in order to have the menus. For storage I have a Synology NAS with 8TB's of Western Digital Red drives. Most of the issues I read about related to the Dune players have to do with the network and the way it handles certain types of file formats. I use the same settings in my 50v for the Dune as I do for my Oppo 103.



i will use cable for the network. And like you , i will ripp them uncompressed .


ohh - one thing more. Subtitle shift. Is that possible . Like the Oppo?


----------



## Tolstoi

How do you compare the Dune HD vs the oppo 103 being used as network player?


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41820#post_23853743
> 
> 
> I think probably using both ARC and your sub's room correction together will work out best for you, but its a trial and error thing. How it sounds to you will be the determining factor.
> 
> 
> Just a quick suggestion. If you don't want to use the Quick Measure feature (and I really think QM is a beautiful thing) then, while doing trial and error ARC runs to check out sub response, do a 2.1 set-up. Just fronts and sub. This is what I did to save time before the Quick Measure feature was added. Once you decide what you like best, then you can run the full 5.1/7.1 ARC run. I'm pretty sure this was a suggestion I got from Bob P when ARC was new.
> 
> 
> Also remember that ARC does not adjust the phase between your sub and other speakers, or set distances for speakers. You will need to do this yourself. I have found the null method found in dmusoke's signature to be very helpful for phase matching sub-front speakers. Good luck.
> 
> 
> Tom



Thanks Tom!


Yesterday I tried to use the B&W's sub app to calibrate the sub and didn't worked due to poor noise to signal ratio. I am still trying to find out what happened.


Despite the setback, I used the QM to fine tune the position of the subwoofer. It is a nice tool to find the optimal place... Afterwards I fully calibrated and sound improved a lot.

I am still using the sub's default wiht respet to phase. Since the front's are also B&W, I am able to specify the model that I am using and automatically selects the phase for me. However, I haven't check the polarity...Any suggestion.


Regards,


Christian


----------



## Stevetd

Hello All,


I'm having some HDMI issues and I think it may be the Anthem. It's an AVM50v that's been upgraded to 3D. Am I safe installing a beta firmware to see if that helps? I'm on the last official firmware, 3.09c I think. I'm assuming it's no problem but, I'm a little nervous with this new board.


Thanks,

Steve


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41820#post_23859284
> 
> 
> hey.
> 
> 
> i am in the need for a streaming thing. I have look on the Dunde HD base. Is there anybody in here that have experience with this one , in combination with AVM50v/D2.
> 
> 
> My processor is a avm50v. My dealer have som costumers that have some issues with the Dune HD MAX and the AVM/D2 combination. the purpose is to rip all my Blurays in to a nas server. And stream it from there. A nice cover art. And user friendly. A am NOT a pc orakel. i have a great deal of movies. So it woud bee nice to
> 
> 
> get some more space. 600 movies takes some space
> 
> 
> Any help/experience will bee appreciated. other surgestions are velcome



I use the Popcorn Hour. I have both the C200 and the newer C300. There are even newer models available now. There are several methods of obtaining the files to play. The easiest is Anydvd HD.

The PCH can play any format you can get from your Blu Ray disc including full disc copies, BDMV, M2TS and MKV or AVI. You also will also be able to play lossless DTS HD Master and Dolby True Hd passthru surround sound.

No manufacturer has a true error free system. Most of the problems originate with the home network and sometimes with non english subtitles.

.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41850#post_23859420
> 
> 
> i will use cable for the network. And like you , i will ripp them uncompressed .
> 
> 
> ohh - one thing more. Subtitle shift. Is that possible . Like the Oppo?



Since this is the Anthem thread, I'll just point you to mpcclub.com. The forums there will answer all your questions and more.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tolstoi*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41850#post_23859642
> 
> 
> How do you compare the Dune HD vs the oppo 103 being used as network player?



I never used the Oppo for streaming. I use the Dune for my movie rips, Meridian for my music and Xbox for Amazon Prime. One thing I like about Anthem is they don't make you pay for half hearted attempts at built in streaming features like other prepro manufacturers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

****** Anthem has now posted "Official" firmware V3.10 for the D2v/3D and AVM 50v/3D ******

http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software.php 


Anthem has just updated their web site in conjunction with the release of the new, Generation 2 MRX Receivers.


As part of that, they updated the public downloads page (linked above).


Firmware v3.10 is now shown as the public, Official firmware for *ONLY* the 3D equipped version pre-pros -- i.e., the D2v/3D and the AVM 50v/3D


Firmware v3.09 is still shown as the Official firmware for the *NON* 3D-equipped pre-pros -- i.e, the D2v and the AVM 50v without 3D.


NOTE: Manuals, Data Sheets and supplementary literature are now found here:

http://www.anthemav.com/support/manuals-literature.php 


For folks with the older hardware (original D2, D1, AVM 50, etc.) my usual trick for finding the download links for Manuals and Firmware (search for "discontinued" on the Anthem site) is no longer working. The links found by that search are no good. I'll see if Nick @ Anthem can tell me where that stuff has gone.


ETA: It looks like some of that older hardware stuff is appearing now on the pages linked above, so it may be they have not finished updating yet. For example, I still can't find Manuals/Firmware for the original D2 or D1.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Interesting, and a little disheartening, to see that the D2v and AVM50v are listed under 'archived' components. I hope this doesn't mean that they have stopped firmware work on these models.


Very disheartening to see that the D2 and AVM50 are no longer listed at all. I hope this is just a glitch with their website, since there are still a lot of older models still working that may need firmware re-installs for whatever reason.


Perhaps Anthem hired the same software people to set up their new website that Obama hired to set up the ObamaCare site and these problems will be resolved. Just hope it won't take Congressional hearings to get it fixed.


Tom


Edit-- Just rechecked the website and older 'archived products' are now listed including D2 and before. I still would like to know if they are planning to keep working on D2v and AVM50v firmware though.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ "Archived" just means those models are no longer being sold, I imagine. I.e., they are no longer the "Current" products.


They are not calling them "Obsolete", or "Only Useful as Doorstops or Boat Anchors".


The manuals/firmware information for ALL the old products was available on-line before this latest update. I'm sure they still have it in their system. The trick is finding the way to link to it.


ETA: And yes, I see the older stuff on those pages now, too. So the editing is still in progress for those new web site pages. Good!









--Bob


----------



## Kris Deering

The fact that they are still supporting the D2 is pretty impressive. Not many companies continue support this far out. The D2V has been a long term champ in every way and continues to be one if the best sounding products on the market even years later.


----------



## RIppolito

Bob, thanks for the tip for getting manuals and firmware for the vintage Anthem's.

- Ron


----------



## AVfile

So nothing has been fixed in the final 3.10 build, it is just official now?


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41850#post_23871559
> 
> 
> Firmware v3.10 is now shown as the public, Official firmware for *ONLY* the 3D equipped version pre-pros -- i.e., the D2v/3D and the AVM 50v/3D
> 
> 
> Firmware v3.09 is still shown as the Official firmware for the *NON* 3D-equipped pre-pros -- i.e, the D2v and the AVM 50v without 3D.



Reading the notes they don't mention any specific fixes. Only "improved performance in units that are equipped with 3D hardware"


Does this mean that the only fixes in the official v3.10 relate to 3D? What about those DTS-HDMA fixes and HDMI handshake improvements?


What about us D2v owners that are not interested in 3D hence have no interest in paying money for something we don't need. Do we not receive any further updates? Even the one to fix such a longstanding issue that leaves our units in a DTS uncertified state?


Surely not, or is this their way to force us to pay for the 3D upgrade if we want our units to operate properly?


Would be nice for a little clarification in the release notes.


Cheers


----------



## AVfile

They are saying if you want it to work properly do not install 3D firmware (3.10). Install 3.09. I don't know if it is right, but that is what they are effectively saying.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41850#post_23873286
> 
> 
> They are saying if you want it to work properly do not install 3D firmware (3.10). Install 3.09. I don't know if it is right, but that is what they are effectively saying.


I'm already on 3.09 which has the DTS remapping disabled and as such is not certified.

3.10 had some DTS decoding fixes was certified by DTS(or Datasat as the case may be).


So as it stands now, based on the betas, only the 3D versions get all the fixes.


Cheers


----------



## porschetech

I don't want to sound ignorant. What were the fixes for update 3.10?


----------



## Kensmith48

It states improved performance.


The site now has all the manuals listed . The link is at the top of the software update page.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41850#post_23874235
> 
> 
> It states improved performance.
> 
> 
> The site now has all the manuals listed . The link is at the top of the software update page.



I have the non 3-D D2v and would also like to have improved performance.

Unless the improvement is just for 3-D features, which is basically just pass-thru.

I hope Anthem doesn't forget about the non 3-D AVM-50v and D2v owners.

Just saying.


Tom


----------



## Flugel

I've been waiting FOREVER for the beta cycle to end so I can update my firmware on my D2v! This is NOT RIGHT!!!


----------



## CharlieU

I suspect that there will be at least one more firmware update for the non-3D units as 3.09 leaves 50v owners with the nasty low volume issue. If they can incorporate all the other fixes in it without introducing other problems then I would consider it job done. No further action required for the non-3D units.


----------



## Texas steve


We wait with baited breath!!   Us lowly D2v (non 3d) owners!


----------



## chileboy

I have the "original" ("Classic"?) AVM50. I have my Verizon STB via HDMI to the Anthem, and then scaled to my display at 1080i, which is the highest resolution my display will support.


Until recently my STB was a fairly old model which, AFAIK, did not support video output in "Native" mode (although I can't swear I looked). But my new one does, and prompted by some recent posts here and in the Oppo threads, I just figured out how to do that.


It definitely looks so much better on 720p - so glad I did it. But, I am having one issue - on the channels that are native 1080i, 720p, and the SD channels' 480i, all is well. But when the signal is 480p (as I discovered Music Choice is, and I often use that), the picture is zoomed way beyond the edges of the display.


Is there some setting in the Anthem that might correct this?


Thanks,


- Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chileboy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41850#post_23878079
> 
> 
> I have the "original" ("Classic"?) AVM50. I have my Verizon STB via HDMI to the Anthem, and then scaled to my display at 1080i, which is the highest resolution my display will support.
> 
> 
> Until recently my STB was a fairly old model which, AFAIK, did not support video output in "Native" mode (although I can't swear I looked). But my new one does, and prompted by some recent posts here and in the Oppo threads, I just figured out how to do that.
> 
> 
> It definitely looks so much better on 720p - so glad I did it. But, I am having one issue - on the channels that are native 1080i, 720p, and the SD channels' 480i, all is well. But when the signal is 480p (as I discovered Music Choice is, and I often use that), the picture is zoomed way beyond the edges of the display.
> 
> 
> Is there some setting in the Anthem that might correct this?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> - Mark



If 480i input is working but 480p input is screwy then the problem is in your new cable box. It is not putting out 480p correctly. There are no settings in the Anthem that differentiate between 480i and 480p input -- presuming you are playing both with the same Setup > Source Setup selected.


If you are selecting a DIFFERENT Source when playing the Music Choice channel, try it again using the Source choice in the Anthem which is handling 480i input correctly. If the Music Choice works OK on that Source then you likely have something different in the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" button) for the Source that is not working right for Music Choice. Check the Input Crop and Scaling settings in there.


Some cable boxes with Native output have "additional Native output" settings in the same menu where you enable Native in the first place. In there you may find a list of allowed output resolutions. If both 480i and 480p are enabled now, try disabling 480p and see if that Music Choice screen comes in correctly now as 480i.

--Bob


----------



## chileboy

^ Bob, I am using only one Source setup. My STB does have the "Allowed resolutions" setting, that's a good idea about disabling 480p.


Thanks!


- Mark


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CharlieU*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41850#post_23877252
> 
> 
> I suspect that there will be at least one more firmware update for the non-3D units as 3.09 leaves 50v owners with the nasty low volume issue. If they can incorporate all the other fixes in it without introducing other problems then I would consider it job done. No further action required for the non-3D units.



What's the low-volume issue. There was a terrible low volume bug on startup but that was fixed a few firmware revisions ago. I haven't had it since. Is this something new or different?


----------



## bluemark81

I'm looking to upgrade my oppo bdp-83 to either the 103 or 105. I guess it primarily comes down to whether I want to use the DAC in the oppo or in my D2v. If the D2v is better, I will likely go with the 103 or 103D and use my D2v's DAC. Has anyone had the opportunity to compare.


----------



## porschetech

^^^ kinda similar question here too. Should I use my multi analogues or hdmi for sound output on my bdp-09fd?


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41850#post_23878784
> 
> 
> What's the low-volume issue. There was a terrible low volume bug on startup but that was fixed a few firmware revisions ago. I haven't had it since. Is this something new or different?



The bug was in the official 3.09 release. It was fixed in one of the betas that came after it. As far as I know this is still the original 3.09 release that's available to the public.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41850#post_23879148
> 
> 
> I'm looking to upgrade my oppo bdp-83 to either the 103 or 105. I guess it primarily comes down to whether I want to use the DAC in the oppo or in my D2v. If the D2v is better, I will likely go with the 103 or 103D and use my D2v's DAC. Has anyone had the opportunity to compare.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41850#post_23879273
> 
> 
> ^^^ kinda similar question here too. Should I use my multi analogues or hdmi for sound output on my bdp-09fd?



If you guys are planning on using ARC no reason to go analog as you will be using the Anthem DACs output anyway. Having said that even without ARC factored in the Anthem DAC stage can hold their own. Why spend all the money on the Anthem if you just want analog audio passive switching.


----------



## bluemark81

Thanks. That's what I wanted to hear.


----------



## AVfile

Is there a quick way to switch to the analog input for a source without going into the Source Setup menu?


----------



## xMEATx

You could set up a analog input on say the cd input and digital on 2 channel, that would allow you to switch back and forth with the press on a single button on the fly. Are you trying to compare analog vs digital?


----------



## xMEATx

^^ this assumes the source plays both a analog and digital at the same time.


----------



## Kensmith48

Anyone install V3.10 for the 3D D2v? Notice any differences?


----------



## porschetech

^^^^ why don't you try first and let us know


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23885526
> 
> 
> Anyone install V3.10 for the 3D D2v? Notice any differences?



Yes I have, and I have yet to notice any immediate differences. There is one thing that has changed a little. The RS-232 remote setup I'm using for my URC remote/MRX-2 combo is ramping the volume on the D2V more quickly now than it was in 3.09. No changes have been made to my programming on the remote itself, and yet I'm getting what I think is more proper "ramping" of the volume - it's as if the serial connection is just more responsive now to repeating commands. Perhaps the serial memory buffer was increased a bit or somehow tweaked.


Other than that, I have yet to notice any differences in 3.10.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880_40#post_23885526
> 
> 
> Anyone install V3.10 for the 3D D2v? Notice any differences?


Anyone try 3.10 on a NON 3D?    Last time I tried it would not allow the surround speakers to function


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23886495
> 
> 
> I'm getting what I think is more proper "ramping" of the volume - it's as if the serial connection is just more responsive now to repeating commands. Perhaps the serial memory buffer was increased a bit or somehow tweaked.



Apparently they have been working in this area:


"v3.10 production release and for with 3D hardware-equipped units


1. Rotating knob very quickly caused front panel display to freeze - fixed."


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23883641
> 
> 
> You could set up a analog input on say the cd input and digital on 2 channel, that would allow you to switch back and forth with the press on a single button on the fly. Are you trying to compare analog vs digital?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23883647
> 
> 
> ^^ this assumes the source plays both a analog and digital at the same time.



Not comparing, just want to be able to use AnalogDirect for the stereo balanced input and have the option of using digital coax when I want to use the Sub (and ARC). The source outputs both at the same time.


Would do as you suggest but I'm running out of inputs.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23886966
> 
> 
> Anyone try 3.10 on a NON 3D?    Last time I tried it would not allow the surround speakers to function



No way!


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks,

I installed V3.10 yesterday ( took approx. 1/2 hr.) and everything went smooth and it installed successfully. I haven't had the time to watch a movie, etc. Thought I'd see if anyone noticed any differences.


----------



## vinodk

Just acquired an Anthem MRX300. Will set it up in a day or two. Wondering if ARC allows you to boost the low end of the sub. I have 2 SI HT18D4's in 4cuft sealed boxes wired parallel & powered by Crown XLS1000 in an approx 2600 cuft room. I did a quick uncorrected measurement with SMS-1 & noticed a significant rolloff from 30hz down which is expected of sealed cabs. If thats the case can I use SMS-1 to boost low end of the subs or would that screw up ARC? Or is MiniDSP a better option?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinodk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23891191
> 
> 
> Just acquired an Anthem MRX300. Will set it up in a day or two. Wondering if ARC allows you to boost the low end of the sub. I have 2 SI HT18D4's in 4cuft sealed boxes wired parallel & powered by Crown XLS1000 in an approx 2600 cuft room. I did a quick uncorrected measurement with SMS-1 & noticed a significant rolloff from 30hz down which is expected of sealed cabs. If thats the case can I use SMS-1 to boost low end of the subs or would that screw up ARC? Or is MiniDSP a better option?



Your best bet is to experiment with repositioning the Sub to see if you can get additional, low bass response. A thing called "Boundary Gain" happens when the Sub is against a wall or in a corner (if the walls are hard enough) that emphasizes the lowest bass, so that would be the thing to try.


However, if your Sub really can't put out bass below 30Hz at volume then attempting to force it to do so by boosting the input signal to it is not really a great idea. You may even damage the sub if you drive it so hard that the cone bottoms out. For this reason, ARC won't ever apply more than +6dB boost to try to raise weak output at any frequency.


So really, the answer here may be to get a more capable Sub.


Now, if you DO want to combine ARC with some other bass EQ system (such as SMS-1), the important thing to remember is that you do the ARC setup *LAST*. ARC has to hear the output of the Sub as ALREADY modified by whatever other EQ system you are using. ARC blends the Sub with the output of your Main speakers, and if you fiddle with the Sub's output -- i.e., change it AFTER you've done the ARC setup -- then that blending won't work right.


When you do your ARC setup for your new MRX, post the ARC results charts over on the MRX Owner's Thread here and others who've been through this may have additional suggestions for you.


In the Tools Menu of ARC you will also find the Quick Measure tool, which is a big help when trying to figure out if shifting the Sub's location can help get better output from it.

--Bob


----------



## vinodk

Thanks Bob. I am limited in where I can place the subs. My best option is to do a quick measure with ARC & try to boost low end with SMS-1 & then run ARC.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23886966
> 
> 
> Anyone try 3.10 on a NON 3D?    Last time I tried it would not allow the surround speakers to function



You could call Anthem tech to find out for sure, but my guess is that this new official v3.10 firmware is the same as the beta firmware that caused the DD5.1 surround speaker problems that was noticed by us NON-3D D2v owners when they released v3.10 on the password protected page.

It seems that rather than fixing the problem for the NON-3D D2v (and AVM 50v ??) they just put the disclaimer that v3.10 was only for units with the 3D board.


Perhaps they are still working on a v3.10 for the rest of us, but I wouldn't hold my breath. History seems to show that once Anthem lists a product as "archived" they no longer work on firmware improvements. _*I hope I'm wrong.*_


I suppose the Anthem firmware team is very busy working fixing the bugs on their new MRX x10 receivers and any possible new firmware for us will have to wait until they get the firmware for their new receivers fixed.


Again, *I hope I'm wrong*. But time will tell if I'm being overly pessimistic or realistic.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23895187
> 
> 
> You could call Anthem tech to find out for sure, but my guess is that this new official v3.10 firmware is the same as the beta firmware that caused the DD5.1 surround speaker problems that was noticed by us NON-3D D2v owners when they released v3.10 on the password protected page.
> 
> It seems that rather than fixing the problem for the NON-3D D2v (and AVM 50v ??) they just put the disclaimer that v3.10 was only for units with the 3D board.
> 
> 
> Perhaps they are still h265 encoding on a v3.10 for the rest of us, but I wouldn't hold my breath. History seems to show that once Anthem lists a product as "archived" they no longer work on firmware improvements. _*I hope I'm wrong.*_
> 
> 
> I suppose the Anthem firmware team is very busy working fixing the bugs on their new MRX x10 receivers and any possible new firmware for us will have to wait until they get the firmware for their new receivers fixed.
> 
> 
> Again, *I hope I'm wrong*. But time will tell if I'm being overly pessimistic or realistic.
> 
> 
> Tom



No Tom

Anthem is busy working on getting the new D3 ready for the January CES show.

New items include,

Gigabyte Ethernet,

HDMI 2.0,

New DAC capable of multi channel 5.6448 MHz DSD and 384 / 24 PCM.

Display Port,

Home theater bypass for analog audio,

4K upscaling,

and USB 2.0 and 3.0

I got tired just typing the list. Anthem is sure going to be busy.

On a sad note look how far they have fallen behind


----------



## dmusoke


I have a non-3D D2v unit and been running 3.10 for a long time (since July 2013). All 5.1 speakers are seem to be active. What am I missing?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ What you are missing is that the reported bug is not understood/explained yet. Since it doesn't seem to be happening on the 3D units, Anthem OK'd the firmware for production release for those only.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23898010
> 
> 
> I have a non-3D D2v unit and been running 3.10 for a long time (since July 2013). All 5.1 speakers are seem to be active. What am I missing?



The bug only happened with lossy DD 5.1 soundtracks for me.

I noticed it while listening to the previews on a bluray. There was no sound coming from the surround speakers during the previews (DD 5.1 as shown on front panel), but all speakers worked fine on the main features (DTS-MA and DD-HD).

I tested it on a DVD with DD 5.1 and on an HBO DVR recording with DD 5.1 and there was no sound from surrounds. LF, C and RF were fine. I don't know if the surround info was blended into the fronts or if it was lost completely, but it wasn't working correctly. I did not test with lossy DTS 5.1 soundtracks.

If yours works fine with DD 5.1 then consider yourself lucky.

Its possible that you haven't noticed it if you only watch blurays with DTS-MA or DD-HD and skip thru the previews. I would not have noticed it if I hadn't been standing next to my LS during a preview. But I watch enough DD 5.1 satellite (GOT's and football) thru the D2v to make it a problem for me, so I rolled back to 3.09.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ When the failure happened, did you go into a Setup > Level Calibration to see if the internal test tones could still play in the Surrounds?


Also did you try power cycling the Anthem to see if that would cure it?


Just trying to gauge what's known about the problem.


I have on occasion seen HDMI handshake failures that, as a side effect, left the Surrounds muted even for the internal test tones -- requiring a power cycle to cure.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880_40#post_23898761
> 
> 
> 
> The bug only happened with lossy DD 5.1 soundtracks for me.
> 
> I noticed it while listening to the previews on a bluray. There was no sound coming from the surround speakers during the previews (DD 5.1 as shown on front panel), but all speakers worked fine on the main features (DTS-MA and DD-HD).
> 
> I tested it on a DVD with DD 5.1 and on an HBO DVR recording with DD 5.1 and there was no sound from surrounds. LF, C and RF were fine. I don't know if the surround info was blended into the fronts or if it was lost completely, but it wasn't working correctly. I did not test with lossy DTS 5.1 soundtracks.
> 
> If yours works fine with DD 5.1 then consider yourself lucky.
> 
> Its possible that you haven't noticed it if you only watch blurays with DTS-MA or DD-HD and skip thru the previews. I would not have noticed it if I hadn't been standing next to my LS during a preview. But I watch enough DD 5.1 satellite (GOT's and football) thru the D2v to make it a problem for me, so I rolled back to 3.09.
> 
> 
> Tom


100% correct with me on my D2V non-3d.  I rolled back to 3.09F


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880_40#post_23898812
> 
> 
> ^ When the failure happened, did you go into a Setup > Level Calibration to see if the internal test tones could still play in the Surrounds?
> 
> 
> Also did you try power cycling the Anthem to see if that would cure it?
> 
> 
> Just trying to gauge what's known about the problem.
> 
> 
> I have on occasion seen HDMI handshake failures that, as a side effect, left the Surrounds muted even for the internal test tones -- requiring a power cycle to cure.
> 
> --Bob


Bob, I did not try level cal.  Tom?    I did reload 3.10 several times and many off/on with the same result   IF I recall the issue showed up when they did a DD fix (was that "I"  or "H" -don't recall).


----------



## leeshanok

I have a Sub25 with PBK kit and Anthem D2. I ran PBK measurement first in 5 mic positions and got really good calculated curve, essentially flat from 20hz to about 110hz, using Flat instead of Auto in the advanced setting. Uploaded the measurement into the sub25. Then I ran ARC in my D2, placing the 5 mic positions in practically the same locations, but to my disappointment, the ARC calculated sub measurement was not same or even close to what i got with the PBK. Instead of getting a flat sub curve, there is a 1.5db dip from 20 to 30hz, jagged curve to 100 hz and a slight hump from 20 to 100hz, which maybe is due to the room gain, set by ARC at around 2.5. Can someone explain to me why the PBK and ARC calculated measurement differ, especially after getting flat curve at 20hz on PBK, but 1.5db dip on ARC? Has anybody experienced this situation and what did you do to get flat at 20 hz? Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

That's the default roll off ARC applies down there to protect subs without internal protection. In the Advanced portion of Targets you can change the low end of the sub target curve from AUTO to FLAT to eliminate that.

--Bob


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23896717
> 
> 
> No Tom
> 
> Anthem is busy working on getting the new D3 ready for the January CES show.
> 
> New items include,
> 
> Gigabyte Ethernet,
> 
> HDMI 2.0,
> 
> New DAC capable of multi channel 5.6448 MHz DSD and 384 / 24 PCM.
> 
> Display Port,
> 
> Home theater bypass for analog audio,
> 
> 4K upscaling,
> 
> and USB 2.0 and 3.0
> 
> I got tired just typing the list. Anthem is sure going to be busy.
> 
> On a sad note look how far they have fallen behind



Honestly they haven't fallen behind at all. Other than maybe native support for dsd and having a USB dac they are about as full featured as you can get as long as you don't want a bevy of streaming stuff. I would like to see support for USB connections for arc and a few other minor quibbles once the new hdmi stuff gets worked out but otherwise they are still sitting good.


----------



## leeshanok




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23899678
> 
> 
> That's the default roll off ARC applies down there to protect subs without internal protection. In the Advanced portion of Targets you can change the low end of the sub target curve from AUTO to FLAT to eliminate that.
> 
> --Bob



I have ARC2.4 for my D2 and there is no advanced settings in Targets. Is there an updated version for D2?

Thanks.


----------



## xMEATx

^^ I think the latest version is 3.0.2


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23896717
> 
> 
> No Tom
> 
> Anthem is busy working on getting the new D3 ready for the January CES show.
> 
> New items include,
> 
> Gigabyte Ethernet,
> 
> HDMI 2.0,
> 
> New DAC capable of multi channel 5.6448 MHz DSD and 384 / 24 PCM.
> 
> Display Port,
> 
> Home theater bypass for analog audio,
> 
> 4K upscaling,
> 
> and USB 2.0 and 3.0
> 
> I got tired just typing the list. Anthem is sure going to be busy.
> 
> On a sad note look how far they have fallen behind





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23899984
> 
> 
> Honestly they haven't fallen behind at all. Other than maybe native support for dsd and having a USB dac they are about as full featured as you can get as long as you don't want a bevy of streaming stuff. I would like to see support for USB connections for arc and a few other minor quibbles once the new hdmi stuff gets worked out but otherwise they are still sitting good.



Don't get me wrong. I enjoy and have the highest regards for my D2v .

Maybe my choice of words was not correct. I should have maybe said...

Here is my wish list for a new D3 when they design and build it.


----------



## leeshanok




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23900036
> 
> 
> ^^ I think the latest version is 3.0.2



The Anthem web site shows v3.0.2 for D2V and AVM50v, not for D2. But I will install it and hopefully no errors when uploading the calculated settings. Thanks.


----------



## leeshanok




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leeshanok*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23900094
> 
> 
> The Anthem web site shows v3.0.2 for D2V and AVM50v, not for D2. But I will install it and hopefully no errors when uploading the calculated settings. Thanks.



Installed v3.0.2 and actually worked for my D2. Changed advanced setting to flat and all looks good now. Sub is now flat from 20hz to 70hz. Going to use my RC SPL meter to make minor adjustment as ARC's volume measurement is off by about +/- 1db. Getting 74 to 76 db on my speakers, but should be at 75. Thank you xMEATx and Bob for your input.


----------



## steven2583

I'm about to start a project in December on modifying my D2v. I will be doing it in two stages: 1 Modifying the power supply for the +5 V with a dedicated toroidal transformer and a Belleson superpower regulator for the digital 5v and another for the analog 5v. 2. Replace the right and left channel op-amps.


I'm interested in improving the musical performance of the D2v. I had a modified unit that died and I feel the base unit is lacking now.


I actually own two of them so I can compare the sound quality before and after. Once I get everything modified and happy I will be selling my 2nd unit. I'm thinking of setting up a couple of listening sessions for each stage of the mod. I'm interested if a few people on this forum would be interested in joining me. Very few people I know personally are interested in his hobby.


I live in Orange Country California. South County Wondering if there is anyone lives in the area that would like to join my sessions and do a blind test. I want to make sure I'm not just imagining the improvements.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23898812
> 
> 
> ^ When the failure happened, did you go into a Setup > Level Calibration to see if the internal test tones could still play in the Surrounds?
> 
> 
> Also did you try power cycling the Anthem to see if that would cure it?
> 
> 
> Just trying to gauge what's known about the problem.
> 
> 
> I have on occasion seen HDMI handshake failures that, as a side effect, left the Surrounds muted even for the internal test tones -- requiring a power cycle to cure.
> 
> --Bob





Bob,

I did not test the internal test tones.


I did try power cycling the D2v without success. Also tried changing sources back and forth.

I don't think I re-installed v3.10 since I saw that Texas steve was having the same issue.


My bluray (OPPO 103) was connected with its hdmi1 to my display and hdmi2 to the Anthem, set to 'split AV'.The surrounds would not work for the previews with DD 5.1, but would work for the feature with a DD-HD or DTS-MA without a power cycle.


The satellite was connected directly to the display with hdmi, and spdif/optical from the sat box to the D2v, and still had no sound from surrounds with DD 5.1 audio feeds. If the D2v was sent a 2.0 audio feed from the satellite the Anthem converted it to a 5.1 signal since I had it set to do that in the Anthem's mode settings.

No hdmi or video signal sent to the D2v from the satellite, so hdmi handshaking should not be a concern.


Any more thoughts or questions Bob?


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leeshanok*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23900653
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leeshanok*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23900094
> 
> 
> The Anthem web site shows v3.0.2 for D2V and AVM50v, not for D2. But I will install it and hopefully no errors when uploading the calculated settings. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installed v3.0.2 and actually worked for my D2. Changed advanced setting to flat and all looks good now. Sub is now flat from 20hz to 70hz. Going to use my RC SPL meter to make minor adjustment as ARC's volume measurement is off by about +/- 1db. Getting 74 to 76 db on my speakers, but should be at 75. Thank you xMEATx and Bob for your input.
Click to expand...


The ARC v3.0.2 you installed is the correct, current version for all the Anthem units that are ARC capable except for the just-release, Generation 2 MRX Receivers (MRX 310, 510, and 710).


So you got the right thing.


I strongly suggest you do NOT fiddle with ARC's Uploaded volume trims. An SPL meter averages a wide range of frequencies and is not even close to being as accurate as what ARC does with the combination of volume trims, bass management, and the Room Correction parameters.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23901064
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23898812
> 
> 
> ^ When the failure happened, did you go into a Setup > Level Calibration to see if the internal test tones could still play in the Surrounds?
> 
> 
> Also did you try power cycling the Anthem to see if that would cure it?
> 
> 
> Just trying to gauge what's known about the problem.
> 
> 
> I have on occasion seen HDMI handshake failures that, as a side effect, left the Surrounds muted even for the internal test tones -- requiring a power cycle to cure.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I did not test the internal test tones.
> 
> 
> I did try power cycling the D2v without success. Also tried changing sources back and forth.
> 
> I don't think I re-installed v3.10 since I saw that Texas steve was having the same issue.
> 
> 
> My bluray (OPPO 103) was connected with its hdmi1 to my display and hdmi2 to the Anthem, set to 'split AV'.The surrounds would not work for the previews with DD 5.1, but would work for the feature with a DD-HD or DTS-MA without a power cycle.
> 
> 
> The satellite was connected directly to the display with hdmi, and spdif/optical from the sat box to the D2v, and still had no sound from surrounds with DD 5.1 audio feeds. If the D2v was sent a 2.0 audio feed from the satellite the Anthem converted it to a 5.1 signal since I had it set to do that in the Anthem's mode settings.
> 
> No hdmi or video signal sent to the D2v from the satellite, so hdmi handshaking should not be a concern.
> 
> 
> Any more thoughts or questions Bob?
> 
> 
> Tom
Click to expand...


Nope, sounds like it is a different problem. The (rare) problem I was referring to leaves the surrounds dead for all audio (including the Test Tones) until you power cycle.

--Bob


----------



## chileboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23901174
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leeshanok*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23900653
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leeshanok*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23900094
> 
> 
> The Anthem web site shows v3.0.2 for D2V and AVM50v, not for D2. But I will install it and hopefully no errors when uploading the calculated settings. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installed v3.0.2 and actually worked for my D2. Changed advanced setting to flat and all looks good now. Sub is now flat from 20hz to 70hz. Going to use my RC SPL meter to make minor adjustment as ARC's volume measurement is off by about +/- 1db. Getting 74 to 76 db on my speakers, but should be at 75. Thank you xMEATx and Bob for your input.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> The ARC v3.0.2 you installed is the correct, current version for all the Anthem units that are ARC capable except for the just-release, Generation 2 MRX Receivers (MRX 310, 510, and 710).
> 
> 
> So you got the right thing.
> 
> 
> I strongly suggest you do NOT fiddle with ARC's Uploaded volume trims. An SPL meter averages a wide range of frequencies and is not even close to being as accurate as what ARC does with the combination of volume trims, bass management, and the Room Correction parameters.
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...


Bob, that can't be right (can it?) - I have an AVM50 with factory ARC, and I've been told since Day 1 that 1.33 was the latest release I should be using for that model (other than some late 1.4-something that was meant to correct some very specific issue).


- Mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You are confusing the AVM 50 firmware version with the version of the ARC Windows application.


The correct firmware version for your AVM 50 is indeed v1.33.


The correct ARC Windows application version for your AVM 50 is v3.0.2.

--Bob


----------



## chileboy

^ Oh, duh, of course. Shouldn't post anything till I've had my coffee.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23898761
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880#post_23898010
> 
> 
> I have a non-3D D2v unit and been running 3.10 for a long time (since July 2013). All 5.1 speakers are seem to be active. What am I missing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bug only happened with lossy DD 5.1 soundtracks for me.
> 
> I noticed it while listening to the previews on a bluray. There was no sound coming from the surround speakers during the previews (DD 5.1 as shown on front panel), but all speakers worked fine on the main features (DTS-MA and DD-HD).
> 
> I tested it on a DVD with DD 5.1 and on an HBO DVR recording with DD 5.1 and there was no sound from surrounds. LF, C and RF were fine. I don't know if the surround info was blended into the fronts or if it was lost completely, but it wasn't working correctly. I did not test with lossy DTS 5.1 soundtracks.
> 
> If yours works fine with DD 5.1 then consider yourself lucky.
> 
> Its possible that you haven't noticed it if you only watch blurays with DTS-MA or DD-HD and skip thru the previews. I would not have noticed it if I hadn't been standing next to my LS during a preview. But I watch enough DD 5.1 satellite (GOT's and football) thru the D2v to make it a problem for me, so I rolled back to 3.09.
> 
> 
> Tom
Click to expand...

 

Tom:

 

This is strange because in my case, I watch HD cable TV most of the time which is always DD 5.1 and all my surrounds functional. What I can't tell is whether they are balanced in DD 5.1 or DTS-HD modes in v3.10.

 

The surrounds are also functional in the Anthem Test Setup Menu as well. Guess I got lucky...

 

David


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23903026
> 
> 
> Tom:
> 
> 
> This is strange because in my case, I watch HD cable TV most of the time which is always DD 5.1 and all my surrounds functional. _What I can't tell is whether they are balanced in DD 5.1 or DTS-HD modes in v3.10._
> 
> The surrounds are also functional in the Anthem Test Setup Menu as well. Guess I got lucky...
> 
> 
> David



David,

Glad to hear that it works for you. But I don't understand why it works for you and not for texas steve or me.


In my satellite's setup I can choose to output audio in DD 5.1 or PCM. If the sat is set to PCM it will send a stereo signal to the Anthem, and the Anthem will matrix it to a 5.1 signal. With v3.10 it worked in PCM or if it was sent a stereo signal (because that's all the show was broadcast in). Are you sure your cable box is set to output DD 5.1 and not PCM ? Not questioning your competency, just want to make sure were comparing apples to apples.

Do DVD's in DD 5.1 also work?

How about the DD 5.1 previews on BR's.


Also I didn't quite understand what you were saying in the highlighted text.


Tom


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41880_40#post_23903026
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom:
> 
> 
> 
> This is strange because in my case, I watch HD cable TV most of the time which is always DD 5.1 and all my surrounds functional. What I can't tell is whether they are balanced in DD 5.1 or DTS-HD modes in v3.10.
> 
> 
> 
> The surrounds are also functional in the Anthem Test Setup Menu as well. Guess I got lucky...
> 
> 
> 
> David


Yes your lucky as with dd5:1 and 3.10 the surrounds did not work for me (non 3d unit) and others as well.  I can tell you it happened between beta release 3.09"H" and up.


----------



## tngiloy

Bob (or Nick if you're watching)


I went to Anthem's password protected page yesterday to see if I could find v3.09f and the only D2v firmware listed were v3.09 for 2D or v3.10 for 3D.

The v3.09 had no letter after it--- 3.09c, 3.09j or whatever. But they do list the changes to the different beta's, 3.09c thru 3.09j .

So, I'm not sure what that means. Is the v3.09 here 3.09j or is it the same as the 3.09 on the official download page ?? Or is it a newer beta ??


----------



## AVfile

They always have the letter after it, if it's a beta. Since they pulled the bad beta you could ask Anthem for the last known good one (3.09f or h). I am surprised they would do that as some of the beta fixes are essential for correct operation of the 50v, namely the really annoying low power-on volume bug fixed in 3.09c.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23903377
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23903026
> 
> 
> Tom:
> 
> 
> This is strange because in my case, I watch HD cable TV most of the time which is always DD 5.1 and all my surrounds functional. *What I can't tell is whether they are balanced in DD 5.1 or DTS-HD modes in v3.10.*
> 
> The surrounds are also functional in the Anthem Test Setup Menu as well. Guess I got lucky...
> 
> 
> David
> 
> 
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> Glad to hear that it works for you. But I don't understand why it works for you and not for texas steve or me.
> 
> 
> In my satellite's setup I can choose to output audio in DD 5.1 or PCM. If the sat is set to PCM it will send a stereo signal to the Anthem, and the Anthem will matrix it to a 5.1 signal. With v3.10 it worked in PCM or if it was sent a stereo signal (because that's all the show was broadcast in). Are you sure your cable box is set to output DD 5.1 and not PCM ? Not questioning your competency, just want to make sure were comparing apples to apples.
> 
> Do DVD's in DD 5.1 also work?
> 
> How about the DD 5.1 previews on BR's.
> 
> 
> Also I didn't quite understand what you were saying in the highlighted text.
> 
> 
> Tom
Click to expand...

 

Tom:

 

I have a Moxi HD DVR and its Audio selections are Mono, Stereo or Dolby Digital. I choose the latter and my D2v confirms I'm getting 5.1 audio. When I get a stereo show, it displays as such on the D2v. My DVD's in 5.1 work as advertised.

 

What I meant in the text was that I can't confirm all channels are properly level matched as DD standards mandate. A poster here a while back with an earlier version of the software found a bug in these levels after he performed extensive measurements in his audio setup.

 

Maybe, I can send you my "special" version of 3.10 to try







???


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23907444
> 
> 
> Tom:
> 
> 
> I have a Moxi HD DVR and its Audio selections are Mono, Stereo or Dolby Digital. I choose the latter and my D2v confirms I'm getting 5.1 audio. When I get a stereo show, it displays as such on the D2v. My DVD's in 5.1 work as advertised.
> 
> 
> What I meant in the text was that I can't confirm all channels are properly level matched as DD standards mandate. A poster here a while back with an earlier version of the software found a bug in these levels after he performed extensive measurements in his audio setup.
> 
> 
> Maybe, I can send you my "special" version of 3.10 to try ???



I'd settle for v3.09f on the beta page.

Or much better yet, a working version of 3.10 for us non 3-D folks.


Tom


----------



## vinodk

In the MRX300 after running ARC would changing the sub level in MRX effect ARC in any way? Ran ARC & the bass sounds anemic. The fronts are set at +5db & the sub is set at -6db. I am using SMS-1 as crossover/EQ for the sub amp. Set the SMS-1 first & then ran ARC. Is it better to just increase the volume/gain on the SMS-1 & leave ARC settings in MRX alone? Thanks.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> i
> For me 3.09H is good (non 3d D2V) when I went to J that's were the surround issue started.
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41920_40#post_23905615
> 
> 
> Bob (or Nick if you're watching)
> 
> 
> I went to Anthem's password protected page yesterday to see if I could find v3.09f and the only D2v firmware listed were v3.09 for 2D or v3.10 for 3D.
> 
> The v3.09 had no letter after it--- 3.09c, 3.09j or whatever. But they do list the changes to the different beta's, 3.09c thru 3.09j .
> 
> So, I'm not sure what that means. Is the v3.09 here 3.09j or is it the same as the 3.09 on the official download page ?? Or is it a newer beta ??


----------



## Max Technoe

Hey guys,


wow. What a long thread







Thanks for all of your hard work.


I've been digesting a lot of this while setting up newly acquired D2V this weekend. I've had a great time configuring the device, it's truly amazing in terms of flexibility and control.


I do have one issue that has popped up that I'd like to mitigate...


I run a Mid 2011 Mac Mini via HDMI into HDMI In 2 on my D2V from which it switches the input to HDMI Out 1 which connects to my Sony KDL60-EX640 TV. I have an Oppo BDP103 on HDMI In 1 and a PS3 on HDMI In 3.


The PS3 and the Oppo run without a hitch, look faultless and sound great. The Mac Mini is a little temperamental however. I periodically get a pink hue to the screen when switching inputs to the Mac Mini. This gets fixed by re-applying the RBG output profile on the display in the Mac system preferences. Alternatively, a reboot sorts this. I read the reference fix here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/3780#post_9610862 and have set the output for the Mac Mini to be 1080p50 with Studio RGB. This issue is still recurrent, typically initiated by entering the setup menu with the Mac Mini input selected.


Additionally, I get periodic audio stuttering which I presume is HDMI handshaking problems. This is typically resolved by a reboot of the Mac Mini.


I've swapped HDMI cables and whacked the Mac Mini into other HDMI ports and the symptoms recur.


Can anyone suggest what the best method of integrating a Mac Mini into a D2V over HDMI is? What settings do the rest of you use for audio / video output? I'm running a D2V with 3.09J software (from memory).


I'm using the Mac Mini as a HTPC running PLEX. I previously had this installed with a Marantz AV7005 which performed seamlessly.


Your collective wisdom would be greatly appreciated


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23907444
> 
> 
> What I meant in the text was that I can't confirm all channels are properly level matched as DD standards mandate. A poster here a while back with an earlier version of the software found a bug in these levels after he performed extensive measurements in his audio setup.


Do you have a disc with test signals? Several DVDs have them in the audio setup. Look for any disc with THX Optimizer, for example.


----------



## Max Technoe

I've also re-run ARC. I'm presently running a pair of Paradigm Signature S8's (v3), a Paradigm Signature C5 (v2) and a Paradigm Signature Sub 1 and a Paradigm Studio Sub 12, powering the passive speakers using a NAD M25 (all three front speakers are bi-amped).


Output below.
 
 


Now I'm about to move house so not so bent out of shape about getting this perfect first time. What could be improved on this effort? Obviously the upper frequency ranges on the fronts and centre appear a bit low.


Does anyone have any default recommendations I should run if pairing the Paradigm Signature speakers with the Anthem D2V?


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Technoe*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23916205
> 
> 
> I've also re-run ARC. I'm presently running a pair of Paradigm Signature S8's (v3), a Paradigm Signature C5 (v2) and a Paradigm Signature Sub 1 and a Paradigm Studio Sub 12, powering the passive speakers using a NAD M25 (all three front speakers are bi-amped).
> 
> 
> Output below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm about to move house so not so bent out of shape about getting this perfect first time. What could be improved on this effort? Obviously the upper frequency ranges on the fronts and centre appear a bit low.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any default recommendations I should run if pairing the Paradigm Signature speakers with the Anthem D2V?



Don’t worry about your high frequencies. This can easily be directional problems with the micropone.


You issue centers around your sub. Enter the quick measure mode and move your sub around the room to find more low frequency. Possibly in a corner to gain some more lows...


Also, if you are using 2 subs you may not have them in phase. Re-phase them or just turn 1 off to see of you get better response...


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41920_40#post_23907722
> 
> 
> 
> I'd settle for v3.09f on the beta page.
> 
> Or much better yet, a working version of 3.10 for us non 3-D folks.
> 
> 
> Tom


309H works for me, but J is where the surrounds went out


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Technoe*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23916205
> 
> 
> I've also re-run ARC. I'm presently running a pair of Paradigm Signature S8's (v3), a Paradigm Signature C5 (v2) and a Paradigm Signature Sub 1 and a Paradigm Studio Sub 12, powering the passive speakers using a NAD M25 (all three front speakers are bi-amped).
> 
> 
> Output below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm about to move house so not so bent out of shape about getting this perfect first time. What could be improved on this effort? Obviously the upper frequency ranges on the fronts and centre appear a bit low.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any default recommendations I should run if pairing the Paradigm Signature speakers with the Anthem D2V?



You should have a much lower extension of the sub woofer frequencies.

Especially with the Paradigm Sub 1.

The Sub 1 can easily handle anything you send to it

Go into the ARC Target advanced settings and set the sub to flat

Did you run the Sub 1 PBK program before running ARC ?

You should and Then rerun ARC


----------



## Max Technoe

The subs are both in phase and at the front of the room in the two corners. Both have been individually PBK'd before ARC.


I get the distinct impression that the room isn't too great for them however as I have to wind the gain up considerably on both of them to get a 75 dB read on them with the test tone. If I leave the gain on each sub at the centre position, ARC won't detect them in the room and just sits there complaining about background noise.


I can't wait to move out of this apartment and into a (hopefully) better sounding room.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Technoe*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23919099
> 
> 
> The subs are both in phase and at the front of the room in the two corners. Both have been individually PBK'd before ARC.
> 
> 
> I get the distinct impression that the room isn't too great for them however as I have to wind the gain up considerably on both of them to get a 75 dB read on them with the test tone. If I leave the gain on each sub at the centre position, ARC won't detect them in the room and just sits there complaining about background noise.
> 
> 
> I can't wait to move out of this apartment and into a (hopefully) better sounding room.


 

It seems your subs are out of phase with respect to each other. IMO, they are fighting each other hence the low volumes you seem to get.

 

1.  Turn first sub off and adjust the gain seconds sub until you get 73dB SPL reading.

 

2.  Turn off the second sub and turn on the first sub and adjust its gain until you get a 73dB SPL reading.

 

3.  Get into the Quick Measure from ARC and select the subwoofer sweeps.

 

4.   Turn both subs on and adjust the PHASE knob of the first sub to 0 degrees. Adjust the phase knob of the 2nd sub until you get maximum output and as widest (and smoothest) frequency response as possible.

 

After step 4 above, both subs should be in phase. Perform EQ using the PBK kit(if you have it) and then ARC afterwards.


----------



## Max Technoe

After your advice above dmusoke, I re-tweaked everything, starting with the subs, then 2xPBK then ARC. Results as below.

Sub 1
 

Sub 12
 

ARC
 


I can see that the sub curve is now near perfect and the rest looks fine. I need to relocate the Sub 1, it's not in an idea corner of the room, but that can wait until I buy a place (hopefully) early next year.


Now to the listening bit


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Technoe*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23920402
> 
> 
> After your advice above dmusoke, I re-tweaked everything, starting with the subs, then 2xPBK then ARC. Results as below.
> 
> Sub 1
> 
> 
> Sub 12
> 
> 
> ARC
> 
> 
> 
> I can see that the sub curve is now near perfect and the rest looks fine. I need to relocate the Sub 1, it's not in an idea corner of the room, but that can wait until I buy a place (hopefully) early next year.
> 
> 
> Now to the listening bit



Looking much better.

Did you go into the advanced window of the ARC Target window and set the sub to flat ?

With the Sub 1 you can gain a lot more


----------



## AVfile

^ It's flat to 20 Hz now, so he probably already has. Not sure what more can he gain?


Before something must have been seriously messed up. Subs producing 70 dB at 300 Hz


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Technoe*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23920402
> 
> 
> After your advice above dmusoke, I re-tweaked everything, starting with the subs, then 2xPBK then ARC. Results as below.
> 
> Sub 1
> 
> 
> Sub 12
> 
> 
> ARC
> 
> 
> 
> I can see that the sub curve is now near perfect and the rest looks fine. I need to relocate the Sub 1, it's not in an idea corner of the room, but that can wait until I buy a place (hopefully) early next year.
> 
> 
> Now to the listening bit


 

Glad it worked out Max







... Just make sure you don't touch that phase knob or take note of its setting for future reference. I believe Phase mis-alignment in setups using multiple subs is more common than what most people would like to admit. The diligent make the effort to optimize their system for best performance.


----------



## TJG55

Great post, DM.

Knew those subs could do a whole lot better than originally shown.

He should send you a very nice Christmas present.

As stated by you, most people do not get multiple subs right. They get LESS than a single sub would produce at a lot more money, UNLESS.........

TJG


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23920958
> 
> 
> ^ It's flat to 20 Hz now, so he probably already has. Not sure what more can he gain?
> 
> 
> Before something must have been seriously messed up. Subs producing 70 dB at 300 Hz



Paradigm Sub 1 is capable of substantial output below 20 HZ. Sub 1 has output rated to 12 HZ


----------



## Max Technoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23921186
> 
> 
> Glad it worked out Max ... Just make sure you don't touch that phase knob or take note of its setting for future reference. I believe Phase mis-alignment in setups using multiple subs is more common than what most people would like to admit. The diligent make the effort to optimize their system for best performance.



Cheers. I'll be looking for a new house soon. When I do that, I'll spend a fair whack of time re-locating and configuring the subs then I'll make damn sure that the room gets treated (acoustic panels, bass traps) properly.


I'd been running this gear with a Marantz AV7005 and was never happy with the sound. The Audyssey did an ok job which sounded great to everyone else but I knew there was better sound to be found. ARC was definitely the answer.


I watched a movie last night and was staggered at the sound improvements.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TJG55*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41940#post_23921463
> 
> 
> Great post, DM.
> 
> Knew those subs could do a whole lot better than originally shown.
> 
> He should send you a very nice Christmas present.
> 
> As stated by you, most people do not get multiple subs right. They get LESS than a single sub would produce at a lot more money, UNLESS.........
> 
> TJG


 

Tru dat! Tru dat! Tru dat!







... Max's subs now look superb indeed!


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Technoe*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41940#post_23922991
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41910#post_23921186
> 
> 
> Glad it worked out Max ... Just make sure you don't touch that phase knob or take note of its setting for future reference. I believe Phase mis-alignment in setups using multiple subs is more common than what most people would like to admit. The diligent make the effort to optimize their system for best performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers. I'll be looking for a new house soon. When I do that, I'll spend a fair whack of time re-locating and configuring the subs then I'll make damn sure that the room gets treated (acoustic panels, bass traps) properly.
> 
> 
> I'd been running this gear with a Marantz AV7005 and was never happy with the sound. The Audyssey did an ok job which sounded great to everyone else but I knew there was better sound to be found. ARC was definitely the answer.
> 
> 
> I watched a movie last night and was staggered at the sound improvements.
Click to expand...

So you found ARC better than Audyssey? Cool... Now next time you do ARC, make sure you have set the reference audio level in the setup menu to produce a 75dB spl level (Setup Menu -> Level Calibration -> Test Level). Your plots are set to 70dB. No big deal for you'll have to compensate using your volume knob for now.

 

I believe the 75dB is the reference level that corresponds to a volume level of -10dB. In your case, you will end up turning the knob to -5dB to get the equivalent 75dB spl, all things being equal.

 

Your sub plots look cool indeed, if I may say so myself. Way better than my Sunfire subs for sure.


----------



## p.las

have just purchesed a dune hd base medieplayer. Everything is working fin. But i do have one issue. Dune player is outputting bitstream. Three times when the movie or concert i starting ( i have it for two days ), yhere is comming a loud hishh...scratch sound from the speakers. I can see on the on screen display from the anthem ( avm50v firmvare 3.09f) that it is not detecting the probber audio. svitch to dolby stereo and back to dts or dolby digital solves the problem. I have tried to set the digital auto on the source setup to on and off. But that have not solved the problem. Any thoughts?


----------



## Brenny7606




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tom* /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41730#post_23783466
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean by 'set channel level trim to -1.5'.
> 
> Go into the set-up menu>LEVEL CALIBRATION.
> 
> Set NOISE SEQUENCE to MANUAL. Go down to TEST LEVEL. This will send the test signal to the LF speaker. Using your SPL meter (set to C-weight/Slow) at the main listening position, set the level so that the the SPL meter is reading 75dB.
> 
> Then go down to the MOVIE SUB and, using the sub's volume knob, set it to 75dB. If you have 2 subs, set them to 72dB each. These two adjustments are all that need to be done before running ARC. Leave the TEST LEVEL at whatever setting that it took to get it to 75dB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ARC will adjust each individual speaker level according to what the mic hears at the mlp. Depending on the distance and type of speaker ARC may set the trim on each separate speaker differently.
> 
> For example: LF -0.5 : C +0.5: RF -1.0 : RS +1.5 : LS +2.5 : MOV SUB -2.0
> 
> DO NOT CHNGE THESE SETTING !! These trims for each speaker is what ARC has set. DO NOT TOUCH.
> 
> You will also need to accurately measure the speaker distances, but the measurements can be input before or after ARC is run. But they must be put in by you. ARC does not set speaker distances.
> 
> Tom


Great set up instructions

I would add one item.

Make sure you ZERO all the speakers before starting. Especially the sub as you will use the subs volume control.


----------



## Whitl

It has been a long time since I have attach files so I hope they are all there, should be three attachments, these are the curves from just running ARC since get the keyspan adapter as well as the new front speakers aerial 7t's, as you can see the curves for the left and right don't look to good on the bottom end and I been a bit disappointed from the listening standpoint with the bottom end thought it should be much better than it sounds, so I'm hoping that someone might have some ideas as to what might be wrong.


curves for Nov 8.jpg 506k .jpg file
curves_1 Nov 8.jpg 215k .jpg file
targets nov8.jpg 197k .jpg file


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41940#post_23926594
> 
> 
> It has been a long time since I have attach files so I hope they are all there, should be three attachments, these are the curves from just running ARC since get the keyspan adapter as well as the new front speakers aerial 7t's, as you can see the curves for the left and right don't look to good on the bottom end and I been a bit disappointed from the listening standpoint with the bottom end thought it should be much better than it sounds, so I'm hoping that someone might have some ideas as to what might be wrong.
> 
> 
> curves for Nov 8.jpg 506k .jpg file
> curves_1 Nov 8.jpg 215k .jpg file
> targets nov8.jpg 197k .jpg file


 

Your left/right speakers are fine on the low end. I would play with the toe-in to get better high-frequency response.

 

I would set the subwoofer HPF from Auto to FLAT. The low end response will be flattened out as much as the room response would allow.

 

How does it sound in the Music mode? Do you like your low-end response...


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41940#post_23926594
> 
> 
> It has been a long time since I have attach files so I hope they are all there, should be three attachments, these are the curves from just running ARC since get the keyspan adapter as well as the new front speakers aerial 7t's, as you can see the curves for the left and right don't look to good on the bottom end and I been a bit disappointed from the listening standpoint with the bottom end thought it should be much better than it sounds, so I'm hoping that someone might have some ideas as to what might be wrong.
> 
> 
> curves for Nov 8.jpg 506k .jpg file
> curves_1 Nov 8.jpg 215k .jpg file
> targets nov8.jpg 197k .jpg file


Your charts, for your speakers, look good. The concern that I have is for your sub. First, check to make sure you have all crossovers and filters disabled on your sub. If you do have everything disabled and if you have the option of moving your sub around, you should try a new location to try to get a smoother response. You want ARC to set the cutoff for your sub to 120. Right now, ARC has set yours to 85. As for setting your sub to FLAT, DON'T DO THAT because your sub is only playing down to 30Hz. You should only set your sub to FLAT if your sub can play good down to 20Hz and below and has built-in protection. So, I would suggest for now to play around with different sub locations if you can. You can use Quick Measure (QM) to help you find a better location with your sub. If you do find a better sub location, then you will have to rerun ARC to get a new measurement. If you don't find a better location for your sub, then you will have to re-upload your current ARC measurements because QM will reset your current ARC settings to zero.


I hope this was helpful. Please report back on the results and then we can try other options if needed.


----------



## Whitl

Okay I have redone the measurements, I turned off the room resonance filter in the D2 and changed the Q control setting on the Monitor Audio FB212 (i have 2 of them) and reran everything the curve has changed but arc is setting the crossover to 90, changing the HPF to flat, should that be done before measuring as it appears to always default to Auto when you open arc. Keep the help coming it is much appreciated, as far as moving the location of the subs that is pretty much impossible as all cable were run under the floors and the ceiling underneath are all finish so this is where they are going to live.

subcurves_nov9.jpg 219k .jpg file
curves_1 Nov 8.jpg 215k .jpg file


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Room Resonance filter is one of he legacy settings that is ignored when using ARC -- both during Measurement and afterwards when listening to any Source that has ARC enabled. Similarly Center EQ, LFE Bypass, THX Ultra 2 sub, and sub Boundary Gain compensation are ignored while using ARC, because ARC is already handling all that. If you turn ARC Off in any Setup > Source Setup, then those legacy settings come back into effect for that Source -- i.e., until you turn ARC back on for that Source.

--Bob


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41940#post_23924314
> 
> 
> have just purchesed a dune hd base medieplayer. Everything is working fin. But i do have one issue. Dune player is outputting bitstream. Three times when the movie or concert i starting ( i have it for two days ), yhere is comming a loud hishh...scratch sound from the speakers. I can see on the on screen display from the anthem ( avm50v firmvare 3.09f) that it is not detecting the probber audio. svitch to dolby stereo and back to dts or dolby digital solves the problem. I have tried to set the digital auto on the source setup to on and off. But that have not solved the problem. Any thoughts?



Have tryed difference things. But whitout any result. If i pause the player, the Sound changes from hish/burst , to only hish.....Sound like it is coming from the left front speaker. It's Sounds like the anthem have hard to deteckt the signal....maby. Just and idea. At the moment i only have dvd concerts on my NA's, and af few bluray trailer and thx comercials. All the time , when the issue has been there, it not ones have been hd audio content.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whitl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41940#post_23929535
> 
> 
> Okay I have redone the measurements, I turned off the room resonance filter in the D2 and changed the Q control setting on the Monitor Audio FB212 (i have 2 of them) and reran everything the curve has changed but arc is setting the crossover to 90, changing the HPF to flat, should that be done before measuring as it appears to always default to Auto when you open arc. Keep the help coming it is much appreciated, as far as moving the location of the subs that is pretty much impossible as all cable were run under the floors and the ceiling underneath are all finish so this is where they are going to live.
> 
> subcurves_nov9.jpg 219k .jpg file
> curves_1 Nov 8.jpg 215k .jpg file


Since you can't move your sub, then you will have to live with what you have. You shouldn't use the Flat setting for your sub based on the raw measurement (red). The frequency for your sub is dropping at 30Hz. In order to use the Flat setting, your sub would need to 1) Measure down to and play below 20Hz 2) Have built-in protection. The built-in protection is needed because ARC will not roll off any low frequencies for your sub. ARC will send all of the low frequencies to your sub and depend on your sub to protect itself. So, if your sub has built-in protection, then your sub will know how low it can play and it will not try to play any frequencies below its' limit. If your sub doesn't have built-in protection and you set your sub to Flat, then it's possible that you will damage your sub because your sub will try to play the low frequencies beyond its' capabilities.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41940#post_23930447
> 
> 
> Have tryed difference things. But whitout any result. If i pause the player, the Sound changes from hish/burst , to only hish.....Sound like it is coming from the left front speaker. It's Sounds like the anthem have hard to deteckt the signal....maby. Just and idea. At the moment i only have dvd concerts on my NA's, and af few bluray trailer and thx comercials. All the time , when the issue has been there, it not ones have been hd audio content.



It sounds like it could be a HDMI-CEC handshake problem. Make sure that any CEC feature in the Dune is turned off.

CEC is often not labeled clearly as CEC. Any feature in the Dune's setup that that references 'automatically turning on/enabling' another component should be turned off.

You could also set the Dune to pcm output and see if this cures the problem.

Hope this helps.



Tom


----------



## tngiloy

^

I re-read your posts, and I don't think its a CEC problem.

But I would definitely try setting the Dune to PCM and see if that helps.


Tom


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Technoe*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41940#post_23922991
> 
> 
> Cheers. I'll be looking for a new house soon. When I do that, I'll spend a fair whack of time re-locating and configuring the subs then I'll make damn sure that the room gets treated (acoustic panels, bass traps) properly.
> 
> 
> I'd been running this gear with a Marantz AV7005 and was never happy with the sound. The Audyssey did an ok job which sounded great to everyone else but I knew there was better sound to be found. ARC was definitely the answer.
> 
> 
> I watched a movie last night and was staggered at the sound improvements.



Audyssey Pro(which is a paid upgrade you need to do) is more on par with Anthem's ARC. So it's not surprising to hear ARC did a better job.


----------



## shah993

I fired up my DV2 after a long time and the oppo would not output any sound or picture so I switched source to cable again no sound or picture.I have a sat connected via component and I would get sound but no picture.I connected it to another TV but again the same thing.I tried HDMI 2 out but the same thing.The only thing I have not tried is to get another HDMI cable.Initially I could see the lettering which showed which source was selected but no actual picture indication at least some signal was passing thru.Am not sure if there is a problem with the Anthem itself or not.If anybody has any ideas please help!I will get a long enough HDMI cable and try again tomorrow.I also tried disconnecting it from the power to see if it would reset itself but no go. Thanks

(I mistakenly started a new thread) so this is a re post. Hopefully the mods can remove the other thread.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41920_40#post_23932860
> 
> 
> I fired up my DV2 after a long time and the oppo would not output any sound or picture so I switched source to cable again no sound or picture.I have a sat connected via component and I would get sound but no picture.I connected it to another TV but again the same thing.I tried HDMI 2 out but the same thing.The only thing I have not tried is to get another HDMI cable.Initially I could see the lettering which showed which source was selected but no actual picture indication at least some signal was passing thru.Am not sure if there is a problem with the Anthem itself or not.If anybody has any ideas please help!I will get a long enough HDMI cable and try again tomorrow.I also tried disconnecting it from the power to see if it would reset itself but no go. Thanks
> 
> (I mistakenly started a new thread) so this is a re post. Hopefully the mods can remove the other thread.


HDMI 1 out can you get the on screen graphics generated by the D2v?


----------



## shah993

Initially it did but it was connected to my projector via HDbase switch so I connected it directly to a small TV with HDMI in port now I do not get anything.The display on the DV2 sows the correct source and audio output .


----------



## bluemark81

I'm looking at upgrading my oppo bdp83 to either the 103 or 103D. Is there any advantage in using the Darbee version of the oppo with the D2v? My tv is the pioneer pro-151.


Thanks


----------



## obie_fl

The benefits of the Darbee has been debated endlessly in the 103D and Darbee threads. It comes down to personal taste and equipment in use. I use an external Darbee with my D2v and JVC projector and think it is worth it. There is nothing in the D2v video processor similar to its processing.


----------



## stanger89

If you want Darbee functionality, I think it's better to have it standalone or in a video processor, that way it can be applied to all your sources. Probably the best implementation I'm aware of is Lumagen has it in their new VPs. Having it in the VP allows having different Darbee settings for each source/resolution and having those settings changed automatically.


That said, if you're getting a Oppo, the Darbee edition is the cheapest way to get the functionality, $100 premium vs ~$300 for a Darblet, vs more for a Lumagen. Of course the later have the benefits listed above.


----------



## shah993




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41940#post_23932860
> 
> 
> I fired up my DV2 after a long time and the oppo would not output any sound or picture so I switched source to cable again no sound or picture.I have a sat connected via component and I would get sound but no picture.I connected it to another TV but again the same thing.I tried HDMI 2 out but the same thing.The only thing I have not tried is to get another HDMI cable.Initially I could see the lettering which showed which source was selected but no actual picture indication at least some signal was passing thru.Am not sure if there is a problem with the Anthem itself or not.If anybody has any ideas please help!I will get a long enough HDMI cable and try again tomorrow.I also tried disconnecting it from the power to see if it would reset itself but no go. Thanks
> 
> (I mistakenly started a new thread) so this is a re post. Hopefully the mods can remove the other thread.


It turns out my user settings were messed up.I reset to factory defaults and the picture came back.I have had to reprogram all the sources and now it has the picture and sound.I am not sure what went wrong.I checked all the user settings before erasing them and they seemed to be all ok.Very strange ,if any body has any ideas please let me know.I am not sure if it will keep my new settings or not.I have not upgraded the firmware to the latest one,it is still on the original one which came with the unit and had been doing well.


----------



## AVfile

First step of firmware upgrade is to load factory defaults. Do it now before you waste more time.


----------



## shah993

Learnt it the hard way! and after much anguish!


----------



## AVfile

I meant do the firmware upgrade.


----------



## jo5507

After running problem free this past year on the release version of 3.09 I thought I'd update my D2V 3D to 3.10. The installation completed successfully but after reloading my user settings, I had no input signal from my two HDMI sources, nor any HDMI output signal to my projector. I went through my settings several times and they were all as originally set up. I reinstalled 3.10 with the same result. I did have the input signal from my music player on a D2V coax input.

I could not see any video output to the projector, including the Anthem menu's, from either the factory default or my user settings.

Fortunately, I was able to reinstall the release version of 3.09 and everything is back.

Any ideas why 3.10 won't run?


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Bizarre! I was about to suggest you knocked your HDMI plugs loose while fiddling with the Serial cable, but then you said that going back to v3.09 fixed it.


If you want to try again, leave the D2v/3D on Factory Defaults after the install (you have to Reset Factory Defaults prior to the install), and just make the minimum necessary manual setting changes (via the Front Panel Display) to see if you can get video. If so, it is possible your saved Setup settings are corrupted. Continue re-entering your settings manually and see if you can get everything working again that way. Then Save those settings to overwrite the corrupted version.

--Bob


----------



## jo5507

Bob,

I actually had the HDMI cables disconnected during the update and carefully reconnected them. I checked them several times during troubleshooting to ensure they were connected and also tried changing them to different HDMI in-sockets, along with the corresponding source setup, to no avail.

I did try setting up my Oppo in the default DVD1 setting, but still no luck with seeing the input or showing any menu items on my display.

I'll give Anthem tech support a call and see what they think.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Well yes, you should give Anthem Tech Support a call and see if they can figure out what's up. The fact that rolling back to v3.09 fixed things really limits the possibilities here, since obviously the v3.10 firmware is known to work.


I suppose it's possible you got a bad download of the v3.10 installer. You could try again with a fresh download.

--Bob


----------



## jo5507

I contacted Anthem and this was the first time they have heard of this issue. Even though the 3.10 download I used apparently installed successfully twice, I tried another copy and reinstalled again over 3.09. This time it worked and all is good! Obviously something wasn't right with the initial install and perhaps clearing it and reinstalling 3.09 resolved it, allowing the fresh 3.10 to install correctly. One of those phantom glitches I guess!


----------



## bluemark81

When I play music, I prefer turning my sub off. I'm sure there must be a way in the D2v to do this, but I can't seem to find it. Can anyone help me out?


----------



## obie_fl

Just use the ARC music setting and set it up without the sub. See page 49 in the manual.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23945496
> 
> 
> Just use the ARC music setting and set it up without the sub. See page 49 in the manual.



In the Bass Management for Music, could I not turn the sub/lfe xover to "off", rather than doing it through ARC?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ No. ARC has to build a set of Room Correction parameters for the main speakers that knows it won't have the Sub in the mix.


Make this change in ARC, re-Calculate and re-Upload. No need to re-Measure.

--Bob


----------



## jo5507

Rather than lose the sub entirely, you may want to adjust/reduce the crossover with your mains in the Music setup, assuming you find the sub too strong while listening to certain music. I use different settings for my music config and definitely prefer having the sub in the mix, even for acoustic jazz, etc.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Same here. For music listening you should lean towards a Sub which is "accurate" -- which generally means less loud. Sometimes described as "musical". But if you get a decent sized sub (i.e., matched to the air volume of your room), even an "accurate" sub will be plenty loud for your movie explosions, etc.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23945379
> 
> 
> When I play music, I prefer turning my sub off.


Just curious, why? I've got 4 subs and music would never be the same without them.


----------



## TJG55

With you all the way, RD. Only use one, (Sub-15) but would never do without it, music or otherwise....BUT sub (subs) must always be set up correctly.

TJG


----------



## ~Ohdee~

Hello, very long time no post. My D2 has been humming along flawlessly for years. Still looks and sounds incredible.


This has likely been asked a number of times before but I recently purchased a new tv (TC-P65VT60). It’s a 3D tv. I’m getting an Xbox One next week and it playes 3D. I’m not really in a financial position to drop 12K on the D2V3D right now. I also think there’s a reason why I haven’t grabbed a 3D tv up till now. I’m personally not a huge fan of the technology. I wouldnt ever consider a new processor to get 3D. Having said that the Xbox and TV will allow it so it would be nice to have the option should I or the kids want to watch the odd movie in 3d.


Is there a way to simply pass the video signal through the D2 without having the D2 process it? I’d like to be able to pass the 3d through the D2 untouched so I can still watch a movie in 3D and use the processor for audio via HDMI. Is that doable?


Thanks.


----------



## obie_fl

Basically the "3D" part of the D2v3D is passthru so no you can't easily do what you want. There are BD players out there that have two HDMI outputs Oppo and Sony come to mind.


In case you come upon a windfall you can usually pick up a D2v3D for about half your quoted $12K if you keep your eyes open.


----------



## sfm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *~Ohdee~*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23948378
> 
> 
> Hello, very long time no post. My D2 has been humming along flawlessly for years. Still looks and sounds incredible.
> 
> 
> This has likely been asked a number of times before but I recently purchased a new tv (TC-P65VT60). It’s a 3D tv. I’m getting an Xbox One next week and it playes 3D. I’m not really in a financial position to drop 12K on the D2V3D right now. I also think there’s a reason why I haven’t grabbed a 3D tv up till now. I’m personally not a huge fan of the technology. I wouldnt ever consider a new processor to get 3D. Having said that the Xbox and TV will allow it so it would be nice to have the option should I or the kids want to watch the odd movie in 3d.
> 
> 
> Is there a way to simply pass the video signal through the D2 without having the D2 process it? I’d like to be able to pass the 3d through the D2 untouched so I can still watch a movie in 3D and use the processor for audio via HDMI. Is that doable?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Original D2 owner here as well... Don't think there is a way to do what you want with the D2 only (no passthrough mode)... You could hook the xbox up directly to the TV and use the optical out from the TV (assuming it has one and assuming it will downmix the hdmi audio to the optical out) back to the D2.


Another route would be to add a Lumagen to your setup and let it do all of the video processing/switching... Costs a lot less than upgrading to a D2V with 3D







This is the setup I use and I can do 3D if I want with my now, relatively, ancient D2 and still get full hdmi PCM audio glory.


As an aside... still amazes me how versatile the old D2 is... I have a rather complicated setup in our home theater and the D2 allows me to mix audio and video signals freely (well... almost). I've looked at replacing it with other processors but they always fall short from this configurability standpoint (within my budget which hasn't changed since I originally bought the D2 in 2006) ... they simply aren't flexible enough to do what I need... holding out for a used D2V(50V) that is within my budget (so I can get true 7.1).


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23948531
> 
> 
> Basically the "3D" part of the D2v3D is passthru so no you can't easily do what you want. There are BD players out there that have two HDMI outputs Oppo and Sony come to mind.
> 
> 
> In case you come upon a windfall you can usually pick up a D2v3D for about half your quoted $12K if you keep your eyes open.



:-( I knew the answer before I posed the question.


The duel HDMI BD player is likely the best short term solution.


Thanks.


----------



## ~Ohdee~




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfm*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23948582
> 
> 
> As an aside... still amazes me how versatile the old D2 is... I have a rather complicated setup in our home theater and the D2 allows me to mix audio and video signals freely (well... almost). I've looked at replacing it with other processors but they always fall short from this configurability standpoint (within my budget which hasn't changed since I originally bought the D2 in 2006) ... they simply aren't flexible enough to do what I need... holding out for a used D2V(50V) that is within my budget (so I can get true 7.1).



I completely agree. The D2 still shines in my home theater. I've used it approximately five hours a day for the last six years and it performs as it did the day I unboxed it. No complaints at all with this product. I may be out to lunch but I'm still under the assumption the audio and video processing performed by the D2 is still better than a 2kish range Denon or Onkyo receivers available today. Like I said I have no idea but if pressed I'd put my money on the D2.


I am curious about how the Athem MRX 510 or 710 would compare? Is the D2 better than those? I don’t know.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41940#post_23930980
> 
> 
> ^
> 
> I re-read your posts, and I don't think its a CEC problem.
> 
> But I would definitely try setting the Dune to PCM and see if that helps.
> 
> 
> Tom



the Dune can't output multichannel bitstream. And after 5 days of trying, i have not found a solution....and it is also a problem when it is HD audio. If the noise is there , i can jump out of the movie , and back agian - and it is gone. It is not related to a specific audio. I will say 2 out of 10 times, the burst is there. I don't know if it is the Dune or Anthem , or maby a combo


----------



## obie_fl

^ Peter I believe you mean the Dune can't output multichannel PCM, it does bitstream. In any case is this the new Base 3D or one of the prior models? The units prior to the 3D I believe could output multichannel PCM, however I think Dune for what ever reason disabled it in firmware at some point. It has been a while since I researched it but I think there was a patch floating around to restore PCM, check the Dune discussion as it has been a while for me..


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jo5507*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23945902
> 
> 
> Rather than lose the sub entirely, you may want to adjust/reduce the crossover with your mains in the Music setup, assuming you find the sub too strong while listening to certain music. I use different settings for my music config and definitely prefer having the sub in the mix, even for acoustic jazz, etc.



So in the ARC software, I've gone into my targets and my music configuration has a x-over setting of 80 Hz for the sub and 60 Hz for my speakers. Are you suggesting I just turn my sub down to a lower x-over? Maybe 40? I am using Paradigm Signature S6's and a Velodyne DD15.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23956901
> 
> 
> So in the ARC software, I've gone into my targets and my music configuration has a x-over setting of 80 Hz for the sub and 60 Hz for my speakers. Are you suggesting I just turn my sub down to a lower x-over? Maybe 40? I am using Paradigm Signature S6's and a Velodyne DD15.



If you are going to use the sub while listening to stereo music and you are using ARC . Why not leave everything ARC has set up as it is probably the best for your room and setup.

If the sub is too strong just reduce the sub out put level with your remote.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23957423
> 
> 
> If you are going to use the sub while listening to stereo music and you are using ARC . Why not leave everything ARC has set up as it is probably the best for your room and setup.
> 
> If the sub is too strong just reduce the sub out put level with your remote.



I find the sub too obtrusive for music listening and rather than dial it down each time I switch over to music, I was trying to determine a more "automatic" method.


----------



## AVfile

Don't touch the Sub target. Just reduce the Fronts target in the Music config and recalculate. Switch to the graph for Music and verify it is what you want. Only the Fronts should have changed.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23957505
> 
> 
> Don't touch the Sub target. Just reduce the Fronts target in the Music config and recalculate. Switch to the graph for Music and verify it is what you want. Only the Fronts should have changed.



I don't understand how that will reduce the subs impact or obtrusiveness. I have one set of curves for both HT and music.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23957526
> 
> 
> I don't understand how that will reduce the subs impact or obtrusiveness. I have one set of curves for both HT and music.



This will cause less bass to be redirected from the Fronts to the sub. You can control how low you drive your mains. If you lower the Fronts target enough they will become full-range (not recommended). Only LFE, if present in the source, will be sent to the sub.


You should have two curves. Setup one source like CD to use Bass-manager Music. Other sources can be set to Movie so you can flip over on the fly.


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23957694
> 
> 
> This will cause less bass to be redirected from the Fronts to the sub. You can control how low you drive your mains. If you lower the Fronts target enough they will become full-range (not recommended). Only LFE, if present in the source, will be sent to the sub.
> 
> 
> You should have two curves. Setup one source like CD to use Bass-manager Music. Other sources can be set to Movie so you can flip over on the fly.



Guess I will need to run it again then.


----------



## DenMay




I have a D2V, I use my projector is on HDMI output 1(which is showing the OSD) and my TV is connected to HDMI 2 (not showing the OSD) it’s correct?
How do I show the OSD via HDMI 2 output?
 
 
thank you

 

Denio


----------



## dmusoke


^^^

You can't...


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23957757
> 
> 
> Guess I will need to run it again then.



You don't need to run ARC again, but I would suggest you do.


I think that running separate movie and music ARC runs is the best way to go. Especially if you use different speaker configurations when listening. I use a 5.1 setup for movies and 2.1 for music and run separate ARC runs for each. I don't just change it in the ARC window.


ARC consistently sets my 'room gain' lower for music. It consistently sets the sub gain about 1 dB lower for music . Bob has pointed out that there are not different algorithms for 'movie' and 'music', but the results are great. The bass is much better for both movies and music for me.


It takes a little longer, but really not much, and is well worth the effort IMHO.



Tom


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23958000
> 
> 
> You don't need to run ARC again, but I would suggest you do.
> 
> 
> I think that running separate movie and music ARC runs is the best way to go. Especially if you use different speaker configurations when listening. I use a 5.1 setup for movies and 2.1 for music and run separate ARC runs for each. I don't just change it in the ARC window.
> 
> 
> Tom



What is the advantage to taking separate readings for 5.1 vs 2.1 or do you use different positions? I don't see any advantage to doing a separate run for each configuration since ARC only "listens" to one speaker at a time. Am I missing something?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23958075
> 
> 
> What is the advantage to taking separate readings for 5.1 vs 2.1 or do you use different positions? I don't see any advantage to doing a separate run for each configuration since ARC only "listens" to one speaker at a time. Am I missing something?



ARC does only listen to one speaker at a time. But when you do just one ARC run for 5.1, and then change the speaker configuration in ARC to 2.1 for music, it keeps the same room gain and sets the subwoofer level the same.


When I do (and I assume others also) a separate 5.1 run for movies and 2.1 run for music ARC consistently sets room gain and subwoofer level @1dB lower for the 2.1 music configuration.

Same speakers and same mic positions--- at least the mic positions are as close as humanly possible. I have had ARC since it came out and have done numerous ARC runs in 2 different rooms with different speakers and sub(s), and the 2.1 ARC run is always different and always has a lower room gain and subwoofer level.


I don't think if you are missing anything. Changing the speaker configuration in ARC is most certainly good and works great.

For me doing the separate 5.1 and 2.1 runs sounds just a little better. The bass is less boomy for music, but retains the impact for movies.

For me its just a little bit better. And since the purpose of this thread is to tweak the sound (and picture) to get the most out of the system, I suggest to do separate movie and music runs if you use different speaker configurations.


Try it the next time you do an ARC run. You might like it.


----------



## thestewman

^

When you are going to listen to music say from a CD where do you select music instead of movie ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I have two Sources set up in the D2v, both of which use my shiny disc player as the input device. One is set to use my Music configuration for ARC, and the other uses the Movie configuration.


In my case I built the Music configuration to use all my speakers EXCEPT for Center -- i.e., Sub is included in the solution, and the Surrounds, but not Center. However the Mode Preset I have set up separately for each Source which uses that Music ARC configuration is set to apply Stereo audio mode as the default when playing 2-channel content.


SO:


1) If listening to 2-channel music content (e.g., CDs), I select that "CD" Source which uses my Music ARC solution and defaults to Stereo audio mode. I get output on LF/RF and Sub (via the Crossover processing set up by ARC in that Music solution).


2) If I ever feel the need to include the Surrounds in such 2-channel music listening, I can change the audio Mode on the fly -- say to PLIIx-Music -- via the Mode button and the Arrow buttons. Now I'll get output in LF/RF/Sub AND the Surrounds. However still no output in Center as I've excluded that from the Music ARC solution (to better render the "stereo" sound stage in the front). NOTE that I'm only doing this when playing Stereo content, so there's not any "real" Center channel content in it. See below for playing multi-channel music sources.


3) When watching movies I select the "Blu-ray" Source, which gets input from the same player but uses the Movie ARC solution which includes all my speakers. I get output on all my speakers. If the movie I'm watching happens to only have Stereo or Mono audio, the Mode Preset I have defined for that Source applies PLIIx-Movie by default, so I still get (surround sound processed) audio in all my speakers. If I feel the need, I can change audio Mode on the fly to Stereo to keep the movie audio in just LF/RF/Sub.


4) When listening to multi-channel Music -- e.g., the 5.1 track from SACD discs -- i ALSO select that "Blu-ray" Source. Again it uses my Movie ARC solution which has all the speakers enabled.


Note that Movie and Music are just names of convenience for the ARC solutions. There is no difference at all in how they are built nor in how they are executed when playing content. As I've said many times, they might just as well be called "Fred" and "Ethel". So they ONLY differ according to the differences YOU build into them -- e.g., dropping Center from my Music solution as I've done.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23958444
> 
> ^
> 
> When you are going to listen to music say from a CD where do you select music instead of movie ?



SETUP > SOURCE SETUP > CD or 2CH > (l) BASS MANAGER : MUSIC > (m) ARC ROOM EQ :ON


SETUP > MODE PRESETS > CD or 2CH > STEREO


When the source you set up for stereo listening is selected it will automatically use the ARC 'music' configuration.


Tom


----------



## dtich

hey guys, new to the forum, long time lurker, thanks for all the great conversations.


i have an issue w my new (second owner) D2v 3d. ARC cannot upload data to the unit. it completes measure and calculate steps, saves arc file, then kicks errors at upload. the two i'm getting are:


failed to enter debug mode

failed to find offset


i tried restoring factory defaults and then uploading, but same thing. has failed 4 or 5 times now.


any thoughts appreciated. i've emailed tech supp.



thanks!



ps - fw 3.10, arc 3.02


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ We've seen this error before, but in relation to firmware installs, not ARC Uploads. My recollection was that there was a fairly simple fix, but I just did a Search in the thread and I'm not spotting it, so best to wait until you get a response from Tech Support.


Since you are the 2nd owner of this D2v/3D, one immediate question that comes to mind is when was the v3.10 firmware installed? Even if it was previously in the D2v, that firmware needs to be RE-installed after the 3D upgrade hardware is swapped in so that the firmware properly recognizes the new hardware.


Anyway, Anthem Tech Support should have an answer for you when you can reach them on Monday. The fact that you were able to complete the Measurement pass pretty much insures there's not anything seriously wrong -- just some configuration item that needs to be given a shove.


If you are using the RS-232 (serial port) input for remote control of the D2v as well, another thing to check is the Setup sub-menu for the RS-232 stuff. Check to see that it matches the picture in the Manual. The usual culprit here is the setting that causes the serial port to echo back commands coming in to it. Some serial port systems require that setting to be changed, but you want to put it back before using the Anthem software (like ARC). Again, since your Measurement pass worked, I doubt that's it, but it is worth a check.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Sorry guys, I should know this, but I'm having a lapse of memory. How do I determine the version of ARC software and D2v software I'm running?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ For D2v: Press Select once on the Remote and see the firmware version # in the on-screen display or Front Panel display.


For ARC: Run the ARC Windows program in Manual mode (i.e, as if viewing charts). The easiest way is just to double click on your existing ARC solution file. Choose About from the Help menu to see the version number of the ARC Windows application.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42000#post_23959360
> 
> 
> ^ For D2v: Press Select once on the Remote and see the firmware version # in the on-screen display or Front Panel display.
> 
> 
> For ARC: Run the ARC Windows program in Manual mode (i.e, as if viewing charts). The easiest way is just to double click on your existing ARC solution file. Choose About from the Help menu to see the version number of the ARC Windows application.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks. I am running the latest softwares, but I wanted to make some adjustments and started to run ARC. The first time I attempted running it, it found my D2v with serial #, but it stalled and hung in that position for 20 mins. I ended up aborting, but now when I try to run it again, I get a popup message that says: "Measurement procedure failed. Could not find a valid Anthem processor"


IGNORE - it is working now


----------



## DenMay


Bob,

 

I have a D2V and I use only HDMI 1 output in my projector, Buy a new TV and put in HDMI 2 output. I can not see the OSD HDMI 2, Exite a way to show?

Now I have no video signal output from the HDMI 2 any problem?

 

 

Thanks

 

Dênio


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ On Screen Display is not available on the HDMI 2 output -- only on HDMI 1. If you still have no video on HDMI 2, start by checking that the HDMI plug has not come loose -- check both ends.

--Bob


----------



## bluemark81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23945762
> 
> 
> ^ No. ARC has to build a set of Room Correction parameters for the main speakers that knows it won't have the Sub in the mix.
> 
> 
> Make this change in ARC, re-Calculate and re-Upload. No need to re-Measure.
> 
> --Bob



Bob


In my targets, for music configuration, would I turn the x-over for my sub as low as it can go and set my mains to full range x-over to effectively reduce or eliminate the subs during music playback? And then recalculate and upload?


----------



## dtich




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42000#post_23958900
> 
> 
> ^ We've seen this error before, but in relation to firmware installs, not ARC Uploads. My recollection was that there was a fairly simple fix, but I just did a Search in the thread and I'm not spotting it, so best to wait until you get a response from Tech Support.
> 
> 
> Since you are the 2nd owner of this D2v/3D, one immediate question that comes to mind is when was the v3.10 firmware installed? Even if it was previously in the D2v, that firmware needs to be RE-installed after the 3D upgrade hardware is swapped in so that the firmware properly recognizes the new hardware.
> 
> 
> Anyway, Anthem Tech Support should have an answer for you when you can reach them on Monday. The fact that you were able to complete the Measurement pass pretty much insures there's not anything seriously wrong -- just some configuration item that needs to be given a shove.
> 
> 
> If you are using the RS-232 (serial port) input for remote control of the D2v as well, another thing to check is the Setup sub-menu for the RS-232 stuff. Check to see that it matches the picture in the Manual. The usual culprit here is the setting that causes the serial port to echo back commands coming in to it. Some serial port systems require that setting to be changed, but you want to put it back before using the Anthem software (like ARC). Again, since your Measurement pass worked, I doubt that's it, but it is worth a check.
> 
> --Bob



hi bob, thanks for the thoughtful response as always.


i installed 3.10, after board was upgraded. the install went fine and the unit has been working with 3.10 since.


i am not using rs232 for control (other than fw/arc), so i would assume that the default factory settings would have the protocol settings as needed. and yes, as you comment, other than the upload arc communicates just fine with the unit.


so, yes, waiting for tech supp. hopefully is an easy fix, anxious to get arc data online.


thanks!


----------



## vinodk

Posted in MRX forum. Will post it here for some help. Tried running ARC all day yesterday in MRX300 but each time the process goes smoothly with measurement & calculation part but hangs up right in the middle of the upload process giving error message & strangely is not recognizing the Anthem receiver right in the middle of upload process. Tried changing settings on Keyspan adapter & also doublechecked for any loose connections to no avail. Wondering if anyone else has encountered this problem. ARC worked & uploaded last week properly & I am using the same 2 laptops.


----------



## MK4

Just wondering if the Video Processor failed on my D2...

And if so...

Will my newer projector (Sony HW50 with HDMI 1.4) process and show an equivalent picture as the D2 was?


Anyway, the issue:

Composite, component and HDMI all show no video input signal from any source I use.

OSD works fine though.

Audio works fine.

D2 lcd screen gets stuck showing "powering on" until I switch source or change volume.


What happened was during the last few days screen would flicker to black...I thought it was a HDCP handshake issue so ordered new hispeed cables but that didn't change anything. Then the video input resolution signal would say 1120p and I'd get a pink screen. Now I get no video input signal.


I've done a full power cycle down but that didn't help.


The D2 has HDMI 1.1 and I've always run stuff using HDMI from Source > D2 > Projector.


Because of the above video processor issue I just run HDMI from Source > Projector for video, and for audio I run an Optical from Source > D2


I'm not noticing a difference in audio or video quality. Is that false and just wishful thinking on my part?


Thanks for the help


----------



## vinodk

My only other options are to either get a different USB to serial adapter or reset the MRX & start over. Hopefully the partial upload of ARC data has not corrupted the DSP in MRX. Does resetting MRX erase previous ARC data?


----------



## AV_mike

^^^^^^^^

DSP data and ARC data are stored completely separately, so you should not have any corruption.

The ARC coefficients are stored in a 'protected' area of memory, such that RESETs or Firmware uploads should not affect them - info supplied many moons ago by Anthem Tech Support. The only way to alter or erase the ARC data is by using the PC based application.

Regards, Mike.


----------



## vinodk

Hopefully the previous ARC data upload did not get corrupted by partial uploads/ interruptions and hopefully is intact . I was hoping that ARC data also gets erased with reset so that I can start over with a clean slate. Wondering if anybody else had similar situation. I have also emailed tech support to see how I can resolve the problem of partial uploads.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ ARC stores data in the Setup menu and in special memory holding the Room Correction Parameters.


Reset Factory Defaults takes care of the Setup menu stuff.


There is an Erase function in the ARC application which takes care of the Room Correction Parameters memory. Whether an Erase will work depends on what's blocking the Upload in the first place.

--Bob


----------



## vinodk

Thanks Bob. I will give it a try until I hear back from Anthem tech support. Would quick measure erase the previous ARC data also?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No. It just resets the Setup menu stuff so that ARC isn't being used.

--Bob


----------



## vinodk

Thanks Bob. I guess I will wait for response from Anthem tech support. I am hoping that these partial uploads have not erased previous ARC calculations in MRX that was uploaded successfully last week.


----------



## vinodk

Finally accessed setup menu in ARC to set the speakers up manually & noticed that under source setup menu for ARC it says " not available". Does that mean that the ARC data from prior successful upload was erased? I did do a quick measure for subwoofer prior to accessing setup menu so I am not sure if its the failed partial uploads or the quick measure that disabled the ARC.


----------



## Kris Deering

Quick measure clears arc but as long as you saved the measurements last time you can just open them and mess with it to your hearts content.


----------



## tngiloy

  
 


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23957472
> 
> 
> I find the sub too obtrusive for music listening and rather than dial it down each time I switch over to music, I was trying to determine a more "automatic" method.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41970#post_23957526
> 
> 
> I don't understand how that will reduce the subs impact or obtrusiveness. I have one set of curves for both HT and music.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42000#post_23958487
> 
> 
> Note that Movie and Music are just names of convenience for the ARC solutions. There is no difference at all in how they are built nor in how they are executed when playing content. As I've said many times, they might just as well be called "Fred" and "Ethel". So they ONLY differ according to the differences YOU build into them -- e.g., dropping Center from my Music solution as I've done.
> 
> --Bob



I do not doubt you that there is not a different algorithm for 'movie' or 'music' in ARC. But when 2 separate movie/music ARC runs are done for different speaker configurations -- 5.1 and 2.1 in my case--- ARC chooses different settings.


I again suggest for bluemark81, or anyone else who uses different speaker configurations for watching movies and listening to music to take the small amount of time it takes to complete a 2.1 ARC run to get the most out of their system.


I have included screen captures of my ARC target page showing the different settings ARC chose for 5.1 vs 2.1 speaker configurations, and what happens when doing only one 'same as movie' run.

The 'room gain' is about 1.5 dB less in what ARC chose for my 'music' and the uploaded subwoofer gain in my D2v's settings is -1.0 for 'music sub', and +0.5 for 'movie sub'.

If bluemark81 just does one run and removes the speakers ARC will leave his room gain the same as movie and upload the same sub woofer level in his settings, and he may continue to find his sub to be 'too obtrusive'.

I believe if he does 2 separate runs that ARC will make similar adjustments for his music speaker configuration that it consistently makes in mine, and he will find the sub to be non-obtrusive. And instead of removing the sub completely, he will be able to include the sub with his music and gain the advantages that it would add to his music listening enjoyment.


Tom


----------



## dtich

thought i'd post my freq response graphs, if anyone has any comments. i am an audio vis professional and have lots of experience with screening room setup, but never used arc before, so.. if there're any thoughts i'd be interested. this is the correction i plan to upload (as soon as that issue i'm having gets sorted), it corrects up to 10k instead of the default 5 as i feel the higher harmonics and ring outs are the parts of the waveform that give the sense of space and air and thus realism, so i figured if the dsp can handle it why not? my ears can,







. xover is 60 for mains and surrs, and 90 for the sub. may tweak that, but will start there. the room gain was defaulted around .5 and i left it there. any reason to change?


this is D2v/3d feeding a lexicon 5ch amp and playing through thiel l, r, c, surrounds, and a velodyne sub.


i see some dips i don't like, and some low end summing resonances, (not much treatment in my room, just couches and rugs) and wavering here and there, but in general the measured doesn't look so bad to me, and the calculated curve is going to be pretty spot on, so... i feel good. and can't wait to hear it!


thanks for looking...


----------



## vinodk

Talked to customer support regarding my issue with failed uploads on MRX300. They told me to make sure baud rate is set at 19200 which I did but seems like my Keyspan adapter is not retaining those settings. How do I make these settings stick for the adapter? Port is COM1 with FIFO buffer of 16(default) & baud rate of 19200. After I changed the baud rate I still get partial uploads.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinodk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42000#post_23966909
> 
> 
> Talked to customer support regarding my issue with failed uploads on MRX300. They told me to make sure baud rate is set at 19200 which I did but seems like my Keyspan adapter is not retaining those settings. How do I make these settings stick for the adapter? Port is COM1 with FIFO buffer of 16(default) & baud rate of 19200. After I changed the baud rate I still get partial uploads.



What makes you think it is not retaining the setting? When you check the Properties of the COM1 port isn't the baud rate still as you set it?


Do you have another computer you can try? Also, temporarily turn off Windows software Firewall. There have been random reports here over time that turning off the firewall can make the serial connection more reliable.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dtich*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42000#post_23965669
> 
> 
> thought i'd post my freq response graphs, if anyone has any comments. i am an audio vis professional and have lots of experience with screening room setup, but never used arc before, so.. if there're any thoughts i'd be interested. this is the correction i plan to upload (as soon as that issue i'm having gets sorted), it corrects up to 10k instead of the default 5 as i feel the higher harmonics and ring outs are the parts of the waveform that give the sense of space and air and thus realism, so i figured if the dsp can handle it why not? my ears can,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . xover is 60 for mains and surrs, and 90 for the sub. may tweak that, but will start there. the room gain was defaulted around .5 and i left it there. any reason to change?
> 
> 
> this is D2v/3d feeding a lexicon 5ch amp and playing through thiel l, r, c, surrounds, and a velodyne sub.
> 
> 
> i see some dips i don't like, and some low end summing resonances, (not much treatment in my room, just couches and rugs) and wavering here and there, but in general the measured doesn't look so bad to me, and the calculated curve is going to be pretty spot on, so... i feel good. and can't wait to hear it!
> 
> 
> thanks for looking...
> 
> 
> . . . .



dtich,

Post the Targets window as well so folks can see the details of what you've set.


Your main problem is with the Subwoofer. First, it appears you have changed the low end Target to "FLAT" -- i.e., the High Pass Filter in the Targets > Advanced settings. The raw output of your Sub (red Measured curve) suggests that's a bad idea. Your Sub does not appear to have good output below 30Hz (not unusual for "everyday" home theater subs that aren't really configured to reproduce bass down in the region where bass is more felt than heard). By setting its low end Target to FLAT you are asking ARC to boost the signal to it down there, even though it can't handle it. As you can see, ARC still protects you in that it won't push more than +6dB of boost -- which is why the green Calculated line has residual error below the black dashed Target line at 20Hz. But still, pushing that much boost into a Sub that can't handle it is not good for the Sub. You can bottom the cone for example, or overheat its built in amp.


The weak output in the low bass may simply be due to the design of your Sub (i.e., you need to consider getting a better Sub), or it may be the Sub is physically too small for the volume of air space in your room -- you have to huff a lot of air to "pressurize" a room at 20Hz (consider a bigger Sub or adding a 2nd Sub) -- OR there may be a settings problem on the Sub. Look for any setting related to Boundary Gain Compensation -- i.e., correcting for a Sub too close to a wall -- and disable that. If there are ports you can open to enhance low bass output do that. If the Sub has a settings choice trading off volume vs. accuracy, switch it to accuracy.


If no luck with settings adjustments on the Sub, then you should spend some time with the Quick Measure tool (ARC's Tools menu) which will give you a real time chart of the raw, uncorrected output of the Sub as you try the Sub at different candidate locations. NOTE: After using Quick Measure you need to re-Upload an ARC solution as it disables the existing one in the Anthem -- if you've moved your Sub you should do the whole thing starting with a new Measurement. Basically what you are looking for is a candidate location which gives you better low bass output. For example, some "servo" subs are known to have problems when placed in a corner. Try shifting them up along a side wall. At these frequencies, even inches matter -- even just rotating the Sub in place. After moving the Sub remember to adjust its Distance setting and also recheck its Phase with respect to the main speakers.


The Quick Measure tool will also give you the fastest answer whether settings changes on the Sub are helping.


Meanwhile, at the high end it appears your Sub's built-in Crossover may be artificially reducing its high bass output. It might still be enabled at, say 80Hz -- perhaps because a "THX" preset is enabled. Since ARC is going to do your Crossover processing, you don't want anything in the Sub artificially limiting its high bass output. So disable the Crossover built into the Sub, or if that's not possible, then crank it up to the highest frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.


Ideally, you want the Sub to be able to contribute up to 120Hz, which is the top end of the LFE channel.



As for your Main speakers, I think you've been a bit too aggressive in lowering Crossover for LF/RF. The Calculated curve for LF has residual error (i.e,. it is below the Target curve) throughout the region below the Crossover frequency. It is not a big error, but raising the Crossover a bit will eliminate that. Ideally you are looking for a clean Octave (factor of 2 in frequency) below the Crossover setting. That is, if the Crossover for LF/RF is 80Hz you should be checking the match between Calculated and Target for them down to 1/2 of that -- 40Hz. The Crossover rolls into effect over about an Octave, and so you want them to be able to contribute clean output down to there.



It looks like you've got a Room Cancellation Null near 150Hz -- the dip in the Measured curves -- affecting all but Center for some reason. That may be why ARC is detecting a low Room Gain in the room. It may also be that you've got bass treatments installed or that your room is quite large.


Normally, I'd suggest you increase the Room Gain setting to 2dB -- which gets it into the range sound engineers expect for listening rooms when mixing movies. HOWEVER, doing that will require ARC to provide a bit more boost in that problem region near 150Hz. So you need to see whether raising Room Gain introduces residual error in there and compromise a bit. The specific choice of Crossover you pick (raising it up from the 60Hz you have now as suggested above) will have an impact on how clean things are in there as well, so experiment a bit.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42000#post_23963999
> 
> 
> I do not doubt you that there is not a different algorithm for 'movie' or 'music' in ARC. But when 2 separate movie/music ARC runs are done for different speaker configurations -- 5.1 and 2.1 in my case--- ARC chooses different settings.
> 
> 
> I again suggest for bluemark81, or anyone else who uses different speaker configurations for watching movies and listening to music to take the small amount of time it takes to complete a 2.1 ARC run to get the most out of their system.
> 
> 
> I have included screen captures of my ARC target page showing the different settings ARC chose for 5.1 vs 2.1 speaker configurations, and what happens when doing only one 'same as movie' run.
> 
> The 'room gain' is about 1.5 dB less in what ARC chose for my 'music' and the uploaded subwoofer gain in my D2v's settings is -1.0 for 'music sub', and +0.5 for 'movie sub'.
> 
> If bluemark81 just does one run and removes the speakers ARC will leave his room gain the same as movie and upload the same sub woofer level in his settings, and he may continue to find his sub to be 'too obtrusive'.
> 
> I believe if he does 2 separate runs that ARC will make similar adjustments for his music speaker configuration that it consistently makes in mine, and he will find the sub to be non-obtrusive. And instead of removing the sub completely, he will be able to include the sub with his music and gain the advantages that it would add to his music listening enjoyment.
> 
> 
> Tom



ARC builds a solution based on the speakers it is told to listen to. The solution has to meet the needs of all those speakers, which may lead to compromises if some speakers need more help than others. Similarly, ARCs analysis of things like Room Gain is colored by all the speaker output it hears -- which can vary the result due to the differing speaker locations in the room. In one sense, the more speakers included, the more "accurate" that result because inherent differences in each speaker's own output get averaged out.


My point was not to say there's no value in building a Music solution that includes only the speakers you want to use. Indeed whether that differs from a solution with other speakers included will depend on any challenges added by those other speakers. My POINT was, rather, that HOWEVER you build your two solutions, both of them can be used for either Movie or Music playback at your whim -- whichever solution is better suited to the set of speakers you want to use at the moment.


I.e., ARC doesn't do anything more "musical" for Music or more "cinematic" for Movie. if you swapped around and built Movie like you are now building Music, and vice versa, you would get the same results.


In my case, only the output from my Center speaker is a challenge for ARC. And so I'm quite comfortable building a Music solution that includes everything EXCEPT Center, even though I know that MOST of the time I will only use Music to listen to 2-channel content in Stereo audio mode -- i.e., only using LF/RF/Sub for output even though the Surrounds are still present in the solution. Building a solution that also excludes the Surounds does not, in my case, change the results for Stereo playback (only LF/RF/Sub active).


If I'm listening to a stereo movie track and don't want to incorporate the other speakers via Surround Sound Processing (i.e., PLIIx-Movie) I could use the Movie solution temporarily set to Stereo audio mode, OR I could switch to using the Music solution -- also in Stereo audio mode -- and get pretty close to identical results, but NOT identical because the Movie solution has been built to accommodate the needs of the Center speaker, whether or not it is currently being used.


And again, for multi-channel Music I have no qualms about using my Movie solution (which includes all the speakers including Center of course). That is, I know that the Movie solution is not compromised in any way as regards its "musicality". Again, these two solutions might just as well have been named Fred and Ethel.

--Bob


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42030#post_23967205
> 
> 
> Are you related to poster JOY52? Both of you joined AVS yesterday, your posts are equally confusing -- no context -- and BOTH of you are including these 1-pixel IMG files (tracking files?) at the end of your posts.


Hi Bob,

When you see a new user making a few nonsense posts, no quotes, and the weird image thingy, those are robo-posts. I just click the flag and report them, and they magically disappear by the next day.










One sure fire way to confirm is to search on an unusual key word in the post with the "search this thread" tool. That turned up the *original source* content from a post in this thread from 2009.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Roger,

Yeah, that's what I figured -- but I thought I'd give them a chance to reply just in case there was a real human on the other end.


I flagged as well, and also posted in Forum Operations Center that a new gaggle of robo accounts seems to have arrived.


EDITED TO ADD: I went back and deleted MY posts that quoted the spammer posts reported (and now already deleted by the Mods). No need to give them any more visibility. I had edited out the IMG tag in the part I quoted, but still.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42000#post_23967177
> 
> 
> And again, for multi-channel Music I have no qualms about using my Movie solution (which includes all the speakers including Center of course). That is, I know that the Movie solution is not compromised in any way as regards its "musicality". Again, these two solutions might just as well have been named Fred and Ethel.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,

I have a few SACD's and DVD-A's that I play using my 'movie' ARC solution and they sound fine. They were made to be played in a 5.1 setup.

I realize (now) that there is no special music solution. Fred and Ethel. A and B. #1 and #2 or whatever. Although I have to admit my results were different enough that I did think there may have been different algorithms.


My post was aimed at bluemark81. I wanted to show my 'target' page to illustrate how the room gain (which would boost sub output) was less in my 2.1 solution. I feel that he should try building different 5.1 and 2.1 solutions to try to tame his 'too obtrusive' subwoofers. And actually do a 5.1 and 2.1 ARC run, and not just a 5.1 run and then subtract the unused speakers in ARC Targets and recalculate, since that does not change 'room gain' or uploaded speaker gains. His speakers, sub and room are of course different than mine, but ARC has consistently reduced my 2.1 room gain and uploaded sub level. I just think its worth a try for him.


Tom


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinodk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42000#post_23966909
> 
> 
> Talked to customer support regarding my issue with failed uploads on MRX300. They told me to make sure baud rate is set at 19200 which I did but seems like my Keyspan adapter is not retaining those settings. How do I make these settings stick for the adapter? Port is COM1 with FIFO buffer of 16(default) & baud rate of 19200. After I changed the baud rate I still get partial uploads.



A while back I had problems with ARC runs. It would get hung up during speaker sweeps. It was fixed by temporally turning off my firewall. Might not help, but Its a simple enough thing to try.

Just remember to turn it back on after the firmware upload.

Hope this helps.


Tom


----------



## vinodk

Thanks guys for all the help. Finally was able to finish the process after using a different laptop running Windows XP. Maybe my Keyspan adapter is not playing nice with Windows 7 laptop eventhough I have downloaded the correct driver. Also after running ARC had to bump up the sub level as it was 5db too low. Checked with Galaxy CM-140 spl meter & Audio toolkit test disc. Hopefully changing the sub level does not compromise ARC


----------



## dtich




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42000#post_23967158
> 
> 
> dtich,
> 
> Post the Targets window as well so folks can see the details of what you've set.
> 
> 
> Your main problem is with the Subwoofer. First, it appears you have changed the low end Target to "FLAT" -- i.e., the High Pass Filter in the Targets > Advanced settings. The raw output of your Sub (red Measured curve) suggests that's a bad idea. Your Sub does not appear to have good output below 30Hz (not unusual for "everyday" home theater subs that aren't really configured to reproduce bass down in the region where bass is more felt than heard). By setting its low end Target to FLAT you are asking ARC to boost the signal to it down there, even though it can't handle it. As you can see, ARC still protects you in that it won't push more than +6dB of boost -- which is why the green Calculated line has residual error below the black dashed Target line at 20Hz. But still, pushing that much boost into a Sub that can't handle it is not good for the Sub. You can bottom the cone for example, or overheat its built in amp.
> 
> 
> The weak output in the low bass may simply be due to the design of your Sub (i.e., you need to consider getting a better Sub), or it may be the Sub is physically too small for the volume of air space in your room -- you have to huff a lot of air to "pressurize" a room at 20Hz (consider a bigger Sub or adding a 2nd Sub) -- OR there may be a settings problem on the Sub. Look for any setting related to Boundary Gain Compensation -- i.e., correcting for a Sub too close to a wall -- and disable that. If there are ports you can open to enhance low bass output do that. If the Sub has a settings choice trading off volume vs. accuracy, switch it to accuracy.
> 
> 
> If no luck with settings adjustments on the Sub, then you should spend some time with the Quick Measure tool (ARC's Tools menu) which will give you a real time chart of the raw, uncorrected output of the Sub as you try the Sub at different candidate locations. NOTE: After using Quick Measure you need to re-Upload an ARC solution as it disables the existing one in the Anthem -- if you've moved your Sub you should do the whole thing starting with a new Measurement. Basically what you are looking for is a candidate location which gives you better low bass output. For example, some "servo" subs are known to have problems when placed in a corner. Try shifting them up along a side wall. At these frequencies, even inches matter -- even just rotating the Sub in place. After moving the Sub remember to adjust its Distance setting and also recheck its Phase with respect to the main speakers.
> 
> 
> The Quick Measure tool will also give you the fastest answer whether settings changes on the Sub are helping.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, at the high end it appears your Sub's built-in Crossover may be artificially reducing its high bass output. It might still be enabled at, say 80Hz -- perhaps because a "THX" preset is enabled. Since ARC is going to do your Crossover processing, you don't want anything in the Sub artificially limiting its high bass output. So disable the Crossover built into the Sub, or if that's not possible, then crank it up to the highest frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible.
> 
> 
> Ideally, you want the Sub to be able to contribute up to 120Hz, which is the top end of the LFE channel.
> 
> 
> 
> As for your Main speakers, I think you've been a bit too aggressive in lowering Crossover for LF/RF. The Calculated curve for LF has residual error (i.e,. it is below the Target curve) throughout the region below the Crossover frequency. It is not a big error, but raising the Crossover a bit will eliminate that. Ideally you are looking for a clean Octave (factor of 2 in frequency) below the Crossover setting. That is, if the Crossover for LF/RF is 80Hz you should be checking the match between Calculated and Target for them down to 1/2 of that -- 40Hz. The Crossover rolls into effect over about an Octave, and so you want them to be able to contribute clean output down to there.
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like you've got a Room Cancellation Null near 150Hz -- the dip in the Measured curves -- affecting all but Center for some reason. That may be why ARC is detecting a low Room Gain in the room. It may also be that you've got bass treatments installed or that your room is quite large.
> 
> 
> Normally, I'd suggest you increase the Room Gain setting to 2dB -- which gets it into the range sound engineers expect for listening rooms when mixing movies. HOWEVER, doing that will require ARC to provide a bit more boost in that problem region near 150Hz. So you need to see whether raising Room Gain introduces residual error in there and compromise a bit. The specific choice of Crossover you pick (raising it up from the 60Hz you have now as suggested above) will have an impact on how clean things are in there as well, so experiment a bit.
> 
> --Bob




thanks for all the insight bob. i did tweak my xover, and set sub to auto, not much room to move it around physically, so i'll live with the results at this point. still having the upload issue, anthem tech is flummoxed, i am trying a fw reinstall tonight, see if that jogs anything loose... thx again.


----------



## xMEATx

Are there any issues with forcing a 120 hz cutoff on arc, if it doesn't compromise the other speaker calculated curves?


----------



## xMEATx

^^ for the sub, that is.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ No. If all the curves continue to look good (Calculated closely tracks Target) then you are good to go. Note that the CROSSOVER Uploaded for the Sub may very well be different from the Sub Cutoff value you specify. This is part of matching the Crossover from the main speakers. This is normal and not an indication of any problems.

--Bob


----------



## xMEATx

Thank you, bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinodk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42030#post_23967936
> 
> 
> after running ARC had to bump up the sub level as it was 5db too low. Checked with Galaxy CM-140 spl meter & Audio toolkit test disc. Hopefully changing the sub level does not compromise ARC



It sure does break ARC. Adjust LFE trims in the Anthem not the sub itself.


There should not be a 5dB discrepancy unless there is something wrong with the test disc or the way you are measuring.


----------



## Johnsteph10

Just upgraded my firmware from 2.07 (







) to 3.09 for my D2v....easy!


Looks like some fairly decent changes!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinodk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42030#post_23967936
> 
> 
> Thanks guys for all the help. Finally was able to finish the process after using a different laptop running Windows XP. Maybe my Keyspan adapter is not playing nice with Windows 7 laptop eventhough I have downloaded the correct driver. Also after running ARC had to bump up the sub level as it was 5db too low. Checked with Galaxy CM-140 spl meter & Audio toolkit test disc. Hopefully changing the sub level does not compromise ARC



I strongly recommend you do NOT alter the levels that ARC has set. ARC is much more accurate than what any SPL meter can do, because the SPL meter is averaging across frequencies.


If you are seeing precisely a 5dB or 10dB error, those are suspicious numbers. Quite a few test discs have problems in how they encode the LFE channel, and quite a few older Blu-ray players have errors in their handling of the LFE channel that can lead to +/- 5 or 10dB errors.


If the test track is a Bitstream track, to see if it is a player issue, compare LPCM vs. Bitstream output from your player.


My typical recommendation if you want to double-check ARC is to use the LPCM test tracks found on AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray.

--Bob


----------



## vinodk

Which is better for adjusting the sub level so that ARC is not compromised, adjusting the level in speaker setup menu or adjusting the gain on the sub itself? The test disc I am using is made by Goldline. They make professional acoustic equipment therefore I am assuming that their test disc is lot more accurate than the consumer grade test discs.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinodk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42030#post_23972903
> 
> 
> Which is better for adjusting the sub level so that ARC is not compromised, adjusting the level in speaker setup menu or adjusting the gain on the sub itself?



Neither, ARC sets the gains based on the measured response and the EQ it applies to each speaker, it's a lot more accurate than a pink noise measurement with an SPL meter.


> Quote:
> The test disc I am using is made by Goldline. They make professional acoustic equipment therefore I am assuming that their test disc is lot more accurate than the consumer grade test discs.



But it's still less accurate to measure pink noise than what ARC is doing.


Are you actually noticing something wrong with the sound and trying to find the cause, or simply double checking ARC and finding a discrepancy?


----------



## vinodk

After setting ARC I have found that the sub performance is quite lacking with the program material, both music & movies & I do understand that the ARC is lot more accurate than test tones from a disc. Is there a way to adjust LFE level with MRX without effecting ARC calculations? I am using two SI HT-18D4 subs wired for 2 ohms powered by Crown XLS1000 amp in a 2600cuft room so its not an issue of not having enough subwoofage.


----------



## esander3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinodk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42030#post_23973136
> 
> 
> After setting ARC I have found that the sub performance is quite lacking with the program material, both music & movies & I do understand that the ARC is lot more accurate than test tones from a disc. Is there a way to adjust LFE level with MRX without effecting ARC calculations? I am using two SI HT-18D4 subs wired for 2 ohms powered by Crown XLS1000 amp in a 2600cuft room so its not an issue of not having enough subwoofage.



Could be a phase issue between subs or between teh sub and the other speakers. double sub systems are more times than not set up incorrectly.


----------



## vinodk

I do not believe its a phase issue as I have checked graphs with SMS-1 & I have not noticed any cancellation issues either in listening sessions or when using test disc with spl meter. Both subs are located in front in tandem with front speakers & all the wiring is appropriate. Even the quick measure of ARC or the ARC graphs do not show any obvious response anomolies which I would expect to see with phase anomolies. Eventhough it may not be 100% accurate, when I did manual speaker level check & setup with test tones without ARC from MRX as well as test disc all speakers including sub were within 2db of each other which I am assuming would not be the case with subs that are out of phase with mains especially if they are in the same plane. Please educate me if I am wrong.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinodk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42030#post_23973136
> 
> 
> Is there a way to adjust LFE level with MRX without effecting ARC calculations?



Yes, I was the first to reply but perhaps I am invisible. I said use the LFE trims - they are available on the remote and get applied per INPUT signal format (Dolby, DTS, PCM) on the AVM/D. If you have an MRX it may work slightly different.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinodk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42030#post_23974169
> 
> 
> I do not believe its a phase issue as I have checked graphs with SMS-1 & I have not noticed any cancellation issues either in listening sessions or when using test disc with spl meter. Both subs are located in front in tandem with front speakers & all the wiring is appropriate. Even the quick measure of ARC or the ARC graphs do not show any obvious response anomolies which I would expect to see with phase anomolies. Eventhough it may not be 100% accurate, when I did manual speaker level check & setup with test tones without ARC from MRX as well as test disc all speakers including sub were within 2db of each other which I am assuming would not be the case with subs that are out of phase with mains especially if they are in the same plane. Please educate me if I am wrong.



I don't know about SMS-1 but ARC and SPL with test tones do not show inter-channel phase issues, as they only measure one channel at a time. You would have to play the tone in all channels with all speakers unplugged and gradually plug them in and verify you get +3dB for each speaker you add. Anyway I'm not saying you *are* having phase issues, just correcting your logic.


Sometimes the user's expectations for amount of bass needs "adjustment" but you say everything was balanced nicely before ARC and you thought it was just right then. It is more likely some measurement in the room is throwing off ARC. What is it coming up with for room gain?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinodk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42030#post_23973136
> 
> 
> After setting ARC I have found that the sub performance is quite lacking with the program material, both music & movies & I do understand that the ARC is lot more accurate than test tones from a disc. Is there a way to adjust LFE level with MRX without effecting ARC calculations? I am using two SI HT-18D4 subs wired for 2 ohms powered by Crown XLS1000 amp in a 2600cuft room so its not an issue of not having enough subwoofage.



Please post your charts and targets.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinodk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42030#post_23973136
> 
> 
> After setting ARC I have found that the sub performance is quite lacking with the program material, both music & movies & I do understand that the ARC is lot more accurate than test tones from a disc. Is there a way to adjust LFE level with MRX without effecting ARC calculations? I am using two SI HT-18D4 subs wired for 2 ohms powered by Crown XLS1000 amp in a 2600cuft room so its not an issue of not having enough subwoofage.


If you run a test disc, what are the SPL readings of the L and LFE channels? (Please specify which disc you use.)


If you can make the measurements with ARC and without (if that represents the per-ARC condition), all the better.


BTW, it is not unusual to need to change the sub level. In my case, the Music present needs 6 dB more sub drive than the Movie preset. YMMV.


----------



## vinodk

Hi Roger, I am using Audio tool kit 5.1 disc from Goldline. The sub channel test tone says LFE channel & I believe the frequency sweep is specified from 40hz-80hz. I will double check.


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinodk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42030#post_23975273
> 
> 
> Hi Roger, I am using Audio tool kit 5.1 disc from Goldline. The sub channel test tone says LFE channel & I believe the frequency sweep is specified from 40hz-80hz. I will double check.


Good. I have the Goldline disc, so no need to check anything but you readings. The main channels will read ~ 71 dB SPL from a calibrated system (not 75 dB) because the tones were recorded at -30 dBFS with Dialnorm offset of -4 dB.


So if you read 70-ish dB in the L channel, just curious to see what it reads for LFE.


----------



## vinodk

LFE is always reading around 5-7db lower than lt main. This is after ARC. I even tried manually zeroing out & setting the speaker levels prior to running ARC using the test disc but still ended up with 5-7db lower on LFE channel after ARC.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42030#post_23974523
> 
> 
> Yes, I was the first to reply but perhaps I am invisible. I said use the LFE trims - they are available on the remote and get applied per INPUT signal format (Dolby, DTS, PCM) on the AVM/D. If you have an MRX it may work slightly different.



+1

Exactly what I would recommend. Raise or lower the sub db output without changing ARC or your settings


----------



## vinodk

I will check the MRX remote to change the sub LFE level but as far as I can tell in the speaker or source setup menu I do not recall provision for adjusting LFE level. Only thing I see under source setup menu is tone controls for bass & treble. My concern is if I change the sub level using remote its probably no different than changing sub level from speaker setup menu & the changes made with remote will revert back to original settings once the unit is powered off.


----------



## vinodk

Checked the channel trims using the remote & LFE is already at 0db. Do I need to recheck when the source is playing to change LFE for each format?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinodk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42030#post_23975746
> 
> 
> LFE is always reading around 5-7db lower than lt main. This is after ARC. I even tried manually zeroing out & setting the speaker levels prior to running ARC using the test disc but still ended up with 5-7db lower on LFE channel after ARC.



What player are you using to play this test disc. -5dB error in LFE sounds suspiciously like a player problem -- not so common these days, but use to be more common.


Is the test track in question a Bitstream or an LPCM track? If a Bitstream, test both ways -- i.e., both Bitstream output and LPCM output from the player. A player error will only be possible when using LPCM output.

--Bob


----------



## vinodk

I am using Sony BDP-5000ES in bitstream. I also have Oppo BPD83 that I can try to see it works better. Not sure if Oppo has the same LFE error.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I know the OPPO does not have the type of error I'm talking about. It's unlikely the Sony does either, but I'm not familiar with what settings the Sony has that might screw this up.


--Bob


----------



## marycz

Hello guys, can anyone upload older firmware for Anthem AVM50 (not V), i look for 1.31 version. i try to upgrade to 1.33, but become "cannot connect to oki bootloader" , maybe, then i upgrade down to 1.31 and next to 1.33 would be all ok.

Tkanks


----------



## vinodk

I double checked Sony's menu & did not find anything that can effect LFE. In any case I will replace it with Oppo & see what happens.


----------



## vinodk

How do I attach ARC file to the post? Do I need to covert the format & if so how do I do it? It says unsupported file. Thanks.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vinodk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_23977759
> 
> 
> How do I attach ARC file to the post? Do I need to covert the format & if so how do I do it? It says unsupported file. Thanks.



I use the window's snipping tool. I save the picture(s) as a jpeg file in my pictures library.

In the AVS reply screen, at the top, there is an 'image' icon next to the paper clip 'attachment' icon. Click on it an it will open up a window-- click on 'upload file'--open your pictures libray, find the picture and double click it.  

Repeat to get as many pictures as you need.

This is the 'medium size, choice.


Tom


----------



## DaveBoswell

For those of you who feel that the subs lack "oomph" after ARC, both subjectively and via measurement with other tools, my experience was exactly the same for years with my 50v. I had checked it with various other measurements both with test disks and software generated test signals and there was clearly a drop in bass in the smoothed charts. It had nothing to do with the BluRay player or test disk I was using. REW most clearly demonstrated this and it kinda drove me a little crazy that it was measurably too low yet I did not really have a good way to correct for it without trying to hack the mic calibration file.


My solution then was to brute force increase the sub level by around 4 to 6 dB in the settings menu (such that it applied to all inputs equally), however this resulted in unwanted boomy boost in the cross over range. Don't increase the LFE on the remote - that will only make a difference for the LFE channel on movies, and will not take into account music or redirected bass from surrounds, etc based on the measured ARC run.


Then recently it occured to me that my ARC mic might either be faulty, or the Mic calibration file was incorrect, or I had damaged it at some point in the past. I went to Anthem and took and chance and bought a new one for around $140 (i just told them I lost the previous one so as to not get into a debate as to whether I needed a new one or not and I was out of warranty in any case and I thought it was worth a try) and voila! Problem solved. Very nice tight and strong bass, and very smooth transition between sub and speakers, and no "post ARC" adjustment required.


If yours is still under warranty, then its certainly worth a try to get a new calibrated mic. I wish I had returned mine sooner to save a few bucks and to get a better performing system sooner, but still for me it was a pretty inexpensive fix in the end.


Dave


----------



## marycz

Hello guys, can anyone upload older firmware for Anthem AVM50 (not V), i look for 1.31 version. i try to upgrade to 1.33, but become "cannot connect to oki bootloader" , maybe, then i upgrade down to 1.31 and next to 1.33 would be all ok.

Tkanks


Maybe anyone can help ??


----------



## The Bogg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaveBoswell*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_23978773
> 
> 
> For those of you who feel that the subs lack "oomph" after ARC, both subjectively and via measurement with other tools, my experience was exactly the same for years with my 50v. I had checked it with various other measurements both with test disks and software generated test signals and there was clearly a drop in bass in the smoothed charts. It had nothing to do with the BluRay player or test disk I was using. REW most clearly demonstrated this and it kinda drove me a little crazy that it was measurably too low yet I did not really have a good way to correct for it without trying to hack the mic calibration file.
> 
> 
> My solution then was to brute force increase the sub level by around 4 to 6 dB in the settings menu (such that it applied to all inputs equally), however this resulted in unwanted boomy boost in the cross over range. Don't increase the LFE on the remote - that will only make a difference for the LFE channel on movies, and will not take into account music or redirected bass from surrounds, etc based on the measured ARC run.
> 
> 
> Then recently it occured to me that my ARC mic might either be faulty, or the Mic calibration file was incorrect, or I had damaged it at some point in the past. I went to Anthem and took and chance and bought a new one for around $140 (i just told them I lost the previous one so as to not get into a debate as to whether I needed a new one or not and I was out of warranty in any case and I thought it was worth a try) and voila! Problem solved. Very nice tight and strong bass, and very smooth transition between sub and speakers, and no "post ARC" adjustment required.
> 
> 
> If yours is still under warranty, then its certainly worth a try to get a new calibrated mic. I wish I had returned mine sooner to save a few bucks and to get a better performing system sooner, but still for me it was a pretty inexpensive fix in the end.
> 
> 
> Dave



Very interesting. I always felt that the bass was just a little underwhelming (for a system with 4 JL F113 subs) so I would turn the sub volume up 5 or 6db too. I had an audio calibration done by Adam Pelz (a fellow 6speeder) and his equipment confirmed that the bass level was too low.


----------



## dtich




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaveBoswell*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_23978773
> 
> 
> For those of you who feel that the subs lack "oomph" after ARC, both subjectively and via measurement with other tools, my experience was exactly the same for years with my 50v. I had checked it with various other measurements both with test disks and software generated test signals and there was clearly a drop in bass in the smoothed charts. It had nothing to do with the BluRay player or test disk I was using. REW most clearly demonstrated this and it kinda drove me a little crazy that it was measurably too low yet I did not really have a good way to correct for it without trying to hack the mic calibration file.
> 
> 
> My solution then was to brute force increase the sub level by around 4 to 6 dB in the settings menu (such that it applied to all inputs equally), however this resulted in unwanted boomy boost in the cross over range. Don't increase the LFE on the remote - that will only make a difference for the LFE channel on movies, and will not take into account music or redirected bass from surrounds, etc based on the measured ARC run.
> 
> 
> Then recently it occured to me that my ARC mic might either be faulty, or the Mic calibration file was incorrect, or I had damaged it at some point in the past. I went to Anthem and took and chance and bought a new one for around $140 (i just told them I lost the previous one so as to not get into a debate as to whether I needed a new one or not and I was out of warranty in any case and I thought it was worth a try) and voila! Problem solved. Very nice tight and strong bass, and very smooth transition between sub and speakers, and no "post ARC" adjustment required.
> 
> 
> If yours is still under warranty, then its certainly worth a try to get a new calibrated mic. I wish I had returned mine sooner to save a few bucks and to get a better performing system sooner, but still for me it was a pretty inexpensive fix in the end.
> 
> 
> Dave



good info. mind posting your old and new mic serial #s, for reference?


----------



## dweltman

Sorry if this is a duplicate of any prior similar posting. What is ARC 1M and how does it differ from ARC? Will it be available on the D2V and do we care?


----------



## dweltman

Looking at the MX thread, I am thinking ARC 1M provides no advantage over what we currently have...


----------



## Donloz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_23984089
> 
> 
> Sorry if this is a duplicate of any prior similar posting. What is ARC 1M and how does it differ from ARC? Will it be available on the D2V and do we care?





I talked to a Anthem rep on the weekend, ( Rob ) and he says that the arc1 in the D2, D2.v is superior to the M1 arc. The new arc is for the lesser units, 310,510,710.


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaveBoswell*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_23978773
> 
> 
> For those of you who feel that the subs lack "oomph" after ARC, both subjectively and via measurement with other tools, my experience was exactly the same for years with my 50v. I had checked it with various other measurements both with test disks and software generated test signals and there was clearly a drop in bass in the smoothed charts. It had nothing to do with the BluRay player or test disk I was using. REW most clearly demonstrated this and it kinda drove me a little crazy that it was measurably too low yet I did not really have a good way to correct for it without trying to hack the mic calibration file.
> 
> 
> My solution then was to brute force increase the sub level by around 4 to 6 dB in the settings menu (such that it applied to all inputs equally), however this resulted in unwanted boomy boost in the cross over range. Don't increase the LFE on the remote - that will only make a difference for the LFE channel on movies, and will not take into account music or redirected bass from surrounds, etc based on the measured ARC run.
> 
> 
> Then recently it occured to me that my ARC mic might either be faulty, or the Mic calibration file was incorrect, or I had damaged it at some point in the past. I went to Anthem and took and chance and bought a new one for around $140 (i just told them I lost the previous one so as to not get into a debate as to whether I needed a new one or not and I was out of warranty in any case and I thought it was worth a try) and voila! Problem solved. Very nice tight and strong bass, and very smooth transition between sub and speakers, and no "post ARC" adjustment required.
> 
> 
> If yours is still under warranty, then its certainly worth a try to get a new calibrated mic. I wish I had returned mine sooner to save a few bucks and to get a better performing system sooner, but still for me it was a pretty inexpensive fix in the end.
> 
> 
> Dave



I have been experiencing the same issue. The last measure that I took, it emphasize some regions of the bass that now there is an issue of dialogue intellegibility. I added the necessary acoustic treatments to the room, move listening positions, speakers, etc..the culprit seems to be the mic. I recently ordered one and hope to get it by tuesday.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ This would be expected if the Crossover values are set too high --> male voices getting steered into the Subwoofer.


You can also get this if you've accidentally enabled the speakers in your TV, so they are playing in addition to your normal speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dweltman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_23984089
> 
> 
> Sorry if this is a duplicate of any prior similar posting. What is ARC 1M and how does it differ from ARC? Will it be available on the D2V and do we care?



ARC 1M is the ARC hardware in the gen 2 MRX Receivers (310/510/710). It increases the processing power over what's in the original MRX receivers and adds control via Ethernet for the ARC setup and upload process.


Since it is hardware, it is not something you'd expect to see in the AVM or Statement pre-pros.


It works with the ARC 2 Windows application. I tend to call the whole shebang ARC2.


At the moment the ARC 2 Windows application only connects via Ethernet, so it can't work with the AVM or Statement pre-pros. It offers a number of UI enhancements over the ARC Windows application we are used to here. First, the Measurement process is faster -- fewer sweeps needed to lock in for each speaker. Second, it lets you view more stuff, such as the raw Measured curve from each Mic position for a speaker. It also adds a way to print out the results. Various things like that. I've no idea whether or when that stuff might migrate to the ARC Windows app that we use.

--Bob


----------



## gonzalc3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_23985756
> 
> 
> ^ This would be expected if the Crossover values are set too high --> male voices getting steered into the Subwoofer.
> 
> 
> You can also get this if you've accidentally enabled the speakers in your TV, so they are playing in addition to your normal speakers.
> 
> --Bob



Bob,


The subwoofer's crossover is set to 120 hz and the LCRs are set to 60 hz.

Bass is still kind of boomy. The mains and surrounds seem to be fine. The center channel and the subwoofer are problematic.

I have tried several times to calibrate like you though me and the bass was very low. This last time, is when it really increased the bass and lost dialogue intelligibility.

I have changed the listening position following the 38 percent rule. I added several acoustic treatments to deal with flutter echo problems. I treated all early reflections ( creating a RFZ ).

The corners have tbass traps from floor to ceiling. There is a big hump in the bass area for the center channel with three big peaks. According to the graphs everything is perfect. So my guess is that the culprit is the mic. The only other think that I can do is to use the foam plugs in the bass ports for the center channel. Also, perhaps move away a little bit the sub from the front wall. BtW i used the quick measure tool to fin the optimal positions for the speakers.


Regards,


Christian


----------



## dtich




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dtich*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42000#post_23959634
> 
> 
> hi bob, thanks for the thoughtful response as always.
> 
> 
> i installed 3.10, after board was upgraded. the install went fine and the unit has been working with 3.10 since.
> 
> 
> i am not using rs232 for control (other than fw/arc), so i would assume that the default factory settings would have the protocol settings as needed. and yes, as you comment, other than the upload arc communicates just fine with the unit.
> 
> 
> so, yes, waiting for tech supp. hopefully is an easy fix, anxious to get arc data online.
> 
> 
> thanks!



just to update on this, i was using macbookpro/vmware/windows 7 to control and do arc, and it worked well for everything (fw, arc measure) but not arc uploads, failed every time with varying errors. switching to a bootcamp setup for windows solved the issue, uploaded no problem. weird, but there you have it. in case that helps anyone else.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ A long time ago, we had a report here that VMWare didn't play nice with the Keyspan adapter. At the time, it was discovered that a Belkin adapter worked just fine.


I would have thought VMWare would have sorted that out LONG ago, but maybe not. A Search This Thread for "Belkin", may find the discussion.

--Bob


----------



## HTfanatic4life

I’m having trouble using the macro IR codes for direct source selection on my D2v. The scenario is long after power up and the D2v has stabilized after power up. Let’s say I’m looking at TV, for example. Then I want to switch to DVD1.


I’m using a Pronto TSU-9400 and am trying all kinds of combinations of delay between ‘THX, 8, 5’ (to select DVD1) and none seem to work consistently at actually making the source selection change. 1 in 10 attempts may work, etc, when using the macro I stored in the 9400. I have better luck using the key sequence manually, but it’s not even failsafe. And the original Anthem remote works best of all (doing things manually).


I thought I’d poll the forum here to see if there is a tried and failsafe method of using the IR macros.


Do I need delay between each atomic IR code issued? ‘THX’, delay(foo), ‘8’, delay(foobar), ‘5’…for example?

Do I need the numeric values to ‘hold’ longer? I don’t know how I would do this other then record a longer pressed number?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It may be timing out -- taking too LONG to send the 3-button sequence.


Try lowering the Key Repeat Count to 0 (or a max of 1) so it only sends the IR code once (or twice) per button.


And try putting NO delay between the 3 button presses. The Anthem will buffer them.


I don't know if the Pronto tries to be "clever" about Input selectors, but the Harmony remotes have an Input selector delay so that the device an get its act together after an Input change before the next command gets sent. The problem in the case of the Harmony is that the easiest way to do these 3 button commands ends up with an Input selector delay after EACH BUTTON. So the Anthem times out before the 3rd button gets sent.

--Bob


----------



## HTfanatic4life

Thanks, Bob! I doubled up each numeric key in the sequence (was only using a single key before) with a 10ms delay in between doubled key blocks and it's working great!


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gonzalc3*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_23985184
> 
> 
> ..the culprit seems to be the mic. I recently ordered one and hope to get it by tuesday.



In case anyone else is thinking of doing this, I would say ordering a new mic is the 3rd step. First step would be to simply turn off ARC and calibrate levels manually with an SPL meter, play some material, and see if the bass level seems better or the issue is at least partially resolved. Second step would be to borrow another mic and calibration file from your Anthem dealer.


----------



## ManCaveMan

Hello. For the past 8 yrs I have been extremely happy with my D1 with Anthem P5 & P2 amps. I also use a Velodyne SMS-1 to get my dual Paradigm Subs in flat to about 22hz.

I also use an HDMI video switch to get HDMI video to my projector. I'm looking at getting google chromecast so the kids can watch their google play movies on the big screen, but there is no way to sound into my D1.


What advice would you give me? Can I still upgrade the D1 to D2? Is it time to go to an AVR and use it as a preamp with my amps?


----------



## stanger89

You could look into an HDMI audio De-Emedder, you run HDMI through it and it pulls the audio out. I was investigating something like that to use in my living room and put my old AVM20 to use.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManCaveMan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_24009887
> 
> 
> Hello. For the past 8 yrs I have been extremely happy with my D1 with Anthem P5 & P2 amps. I also use a Velodyne SMS-1 to get my dual Paradigm Subs in flat to about 22hz.
> 
> I also use an HDMI video switch to get HDMI video to my projector. I'm looking at getting google chromecast so the kids can watch their google play movies on the big screen, but there is no way to sound into my D1.
> 
> 
> What advice would you give me? Can I still upgrade the D1 to D2? Is it time to go to an AVR and use it as a preamp with my amps?



There are also some BR players from Oppo that accept HDMI in. There may be other brands that offer HDMI in ports also.

The 103/103D/105 each has 2 HDMI in ports. $500/$600/$1200 respectively.

This is undoubtedly a more expensive solution than the audio de-embedder that stanger89 suggested, but would add many other features also. It would cost less than a receiver, especially one that has audio comparable to the D1.


I don't think Anthem is still doing the D1> D2 upgrade, but Anthem tech should be there today if you want to ask. The Oppo's would probably be cheaper than the upgrade.


If you can't tell, I'm an Oppo fan. Great customer service and products. There are AVS threads for each of the Oppo models that could offer more info on how they work with chromecast.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManCaveMan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_24009887
> 
> 
> Hello. For the past 8 yrs I have been extremely happy with my D1 with Anthem P5 & P2 amps. I also use a Velodyne SMS-1 to get my dual Paradigm Subs in flat to about 22hz.
> 
> I also use an HDMI video switch to get HDMI video to my projector. I'm looking at getting google chromecast so the kids can watch their google play movies on the big screen, but there is no way to sound into my D1.
> 
> 
> What advice would you give me? Can I still upgrade the D1 to D2? Is it time to go to an AVR and use it as a preamp with my amps?



You can get a Google Tv box to play your Google Play videos etc. It would go between your regular TV source and your HDMI switch


----------



## BuckeyeAmps

Hey guys,


So I just got my second Rythmik F25 setup and dialed in with my first one (both are set to Bass Extension of 28Hz with Low damping, as these settings are said to provide the highest SPL playback). I ran ARC and got a VERY spot-on calculated frequency response, however the Subwoofer cutoff was set to 80Hz. If the Subwoofer cutoff is set to 80Hz by ARC, does that mean the LPF for the LFE channel will also be set to 80Hz, causing any content above 80Hz to be filtered out?


I attached screenshots of the calculated frequency response of the Subwoofer with the cutoff @ 80Hz and then with it @ 120Hz for comparison.
 
 


Where I am getting confused is that ARC says the cuttoff frequencies are not necessarily what the crossover frequencies will be. I have gotten into the habit of not changing what ARC sets, per advice all over this forum, so I am leaving it at 80Hz, but I am still confused as to what ARC means with this statement and if the Subwoofer cutoff value impacts LFE performance.


Thanks!


----------



## tngiloy

To find the crossover that ARC has chosen you need to open up the D1's setup menu and go to 3a/b 'bass management movie/music' to see what ARC has chosen.

If you include ther charts for your other speakers it may be helpful.


As to the LPF/LFE question when using ARC, I'm still not totally clear on this.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23667182
> 
> 
> ^ that setting is only used when ARC is off.
> 
> Let's not jump to any conclusions based on this review. The last big in-depth review that was posted here got it wrong too.
> 
> 
> Edit: this is the SAME review that was linked here several months ago. I think he was mistaken about how the LFE is handled. In particular the user manual states (and Nick confirmed) the BYPASS LFE FILTER setting is only used when ARC is off and has no effect when ARC is on.



Does this mean ARC automatically turns on 'bypass LFE crossover', and is sending all LFE to the sub ?? Or does it mean that ARC sets the crossover/cutoff and some LFE may be lost ??


Could someone please clarify.


Tom


----------



## BuckeyeAmps




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_24013960
> 
> 
> To find the crossover that ARC has chosen you need to open up the D1's setup menu and go to 3a/b 'bass management movie/music' to see what ARC has chosen.
> 
> If you include ther charts for your other speakers it may be helpful.
> 
> 
> As to the LPF/LFE question when using ARC, I'm still not totally clear on this.
> 
> Does this mean ARC automatically turns on 'bypass LFE crossover', and is sending all LFE to the sub ?? Or does it mean that ARC sets the crossover/cutoff and some LFE may be lost ??
> 
> 
> Could someone please clarify.
> 
> 
> Tom



I understand how to check the actual crossover settings being used in the Setup menu for the speakers. My question deals only with the LPF for LFE as I am confused just like you. Does the ARC cutoff value for the Subwoofer mean the LFE is getting lost if the value is less than 120Hz (like my situation were it is being reported as 80Hz)? It's a very confusing scenario/question to which I haven't found a clear answer to.


----------



## Kris Deering

LFE is handled separately.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_24014083
> 
> 
> with the LPF for LFE as I am confused just like you. Does the ARC cutoff value for the Subwoofer mean the LFE is getting lost if the value is less than 120Hz (like my situation were it is being reported as 80Hz)?



It only means that ARC will not apply correction to Sub channel above 80 Hz therefore resulting in the uncorrected, natural response of the Sub in your room. Whether you lose LFE between 80-120 will depend on what the chart looks like in that region.


----------



## BuckeyeAmps




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_24014216
> 
> 
> It only means that ARC will not apply correction to Sub channel above 80 Hz therefore resulting in the uncorrected, natural response of the Sub in your room. Whether you lose LFE between 80-120 will depend on what the chart looks like in that region.



OHHH.


So in my instance, past 80Hz, the LFE channel will still play all signals sent to you, but it will follow the Red (uncorrected) line on my chart in terms of response and peaks/nulls, instead of the Green (corrected) line?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_24014239
> 
> 
> So in my instance, past 80Hz, the LFE channel will still play all signals sent to you, but it will follow the Red (uncorrected) line on my chart in terms of response and peaks/nulls, instead of the Green (corrected) line?



The green line is the final result of all correction and filters, so that is what you should be getting. My point was the green line will follow the red line more closely in the "uncorrected" region. That is until it hits the next filter which may overlap with this region...


The other piece of the puzzle I forgot to mention is the SUB/LFE XOVER that gets uploaded to the processor's Speaker Configuration. It can be a different value than the cutoff in ARC, but ARC decides what it should be. The only way to see it is to go into the processor's menu and look at it. _I'm not sure if it does anything when ARC is enabled. edit: subsequent posts from Kris indicate that it is ignored when ARC (ROOM EQ) is ON._


There still appears to be some filtering above 120 Hz according to the green line in my charts, which becomes very steep at that point.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_24014154
> 
> 
> LFE is handled separately.



How ??

Is LFE automatically sent to subs when ARC is turned on.

Does ARC not handle LFE ??

Does 'bypass LFE crossover' need to be 'yes', even if ARC is turned on to guarantee that LFE is going to my subwoofer ??


Sorry Kris, but I just need to know what settings need to be applied to make sure that LFE is being sent to my subwoofers.

I'm still not clear.

Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Kris Deering

LFE is automatically sent and the LFE crossover setting you see in the menus doesn't do anything if room eq is on.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_24012561
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> So I just got my second Rythmik F25 setup and dialed in with my first one (both are set to Bass Extension of 28Hz with Low damping, as these settings are said to provide the highest SPL playback). I ran ARC and got a VERY spot-on calculated frequency response, however the Subwoofer cutoff was set to 80Hz. If the Subwoofer cutoff is set to 80Hz by ARC, does that mean the LPF for the LFE channel will also be set to 80Hz, causing any content above 80Hz to be filtered out?
> 
> 
> Where I am getting confused is that ARC says the cuttoff frequencies are not necessarily what the crossover frequencies will be. I have gotten into the habit of not changing what ARC sets, per advice all over this forum, so I am leaving it at 80Hz, but I am still confused as to what ARC means with this statement and if the Subwoofer cutoff value impacts LFE performance.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



That is a great habit and highly encouraged.


You still have the Anthem Sub setting as one , Not Two ?

The Cutoff frequencies are gentle slopes not a dramatic on or off of the audio signal



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_24014083
> 
> 
> I understand how to check the actual crossover settings being used in the Setup menu for the speakers. My question deals only with the LPF for LFE as I am confused just like you. Does the ARC cutoff value for the Subwoofer mean the LFE is getting lost if the value is less than 120Hz (like my situation were it is being reported as 80Hz)? It's a very confusing scenario/question to which I haven't found a clear answer to.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_24014239
> 
> 
> OHHH.
> 
> 
> So in my instance, past 80Hz, the LFE channel will still play all signals sent to you, but it will follow the Red (uncorrected) line on my chart in terms of response and peaks/nulls, instead of the Green (corrected) line?



NO ! If ARC is turned on for the source you are playing ARC will follow the Green line. The Red line was the measured response of your system before ARC is applied.

Before you did your ARC measurements your sub crossover control should have been in bypass or turned ALL the way up so it does not interfere with what ARC is attempting.


I did some research on your sub and there are a multitude of sub controls depending on what you ordered so it is difficult to suggest exactly how to set your amps controls on the F25

I noticed this line in the Rythmik manual for the F25 Sub


"For users with a home theatre receiver using the receiver for bass management: select 12 db/EXT (middle position). EXT means the main crossover is external. In this case, the crossover control knob is mainly for fine tuning."


Hope I helped


Stew


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_24012561
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> So I just got my second Rythmik F25 setup and dialed in with my first one (both are set to Bass Extension of 28Hz with Low damping, as these settings are said to provide the highest SPL playback). I ran ARC and got a VERY spot-on calculated frequency response, however the Subwoofer cutoff was set to 80Hz. If the Subwoofer cutoff is set to 80Hz by ARC, does that mean the LPF for the LFE channel will also be set to 80Hz, causing any content above 80Hz to be filtered out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where I am getting confused is that ARC says the cuttoff frequencies are not necessarily what the crossover frequencies will be. I have gotten into the habit of not changing what ARC sets, per advice all over this forum, so I am leaving it at 80Hz, but I am still confused as to what ARC means with this statement and if the Subwoofer cutoff value impacts LFE performance.
> 
> 
> Thanks!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42060#post_24014083
> 
> 
> I understand how to check the actual crossover settings being used in the Setup menu for the speakers. My question deals only with the LPF for LFE as I am confused just like you. Does the ARC cutoff value for the Subwoofer mean the LFE is getting lost if the value is less than 120Hz (like my situation were it is being reported as 80Hz)? It's a very confusing scenario/question to which I haven't found a clear answer to.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42090#post_24014267
> 
> 
> Yes, but in other words, green line will follow red line in the "uncorrected" region.
> 
> 
> The other piece of the puzzle I forgot to mention is the SUB/LFE XOVER that gets uploaded to the processor's Speaker Configuration. It can be a different value than the cutoff in ARC, but ARC decides what it should be. The only way to see it is to go into the processor's menu and look at it.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42090#post_24014387
> 
> 
> How ??
> 
> Is LFE automatically sent to subs when ARC is turned on.
> 
> Does ARC not handle LFE ??
> 
> Does 'bypass LFE crossover' need to be 'yes', even if ARC is turned on to guarantee that LFE is going to my subwoofer ??
> 
> 
> Sorry Chris, but I just need to know what settings need to be applied to make sure that LFE is being sent to my subwoofers.
> 
> I'm still not clear.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42090#post_24014579
> 
> 
> LFE is automatically sent and the LFE crossover setting you see in the menus doesn't do anything if room eq is on.



My understanding is that no matter what the LFE crossover is in the setup menu when Bypass LFE Crossover is YES the Anthem processor crossover is bypassed

and ALL LFE signals are sent to the sub.

No where does Anthem state that control is not effective when ARC is turned on as they do with all the other controls effecting the speakers.


Stew

.


----------



## Kris Deering

I've had numerous conversations about this with the engineers at anthem and as I said if you have room eq turned on the LFE setting in the menu does nothing at all but the bypass is engaged so all the LFE info is indeed going to the sub. This is straight from the designers.


----------



## thestewman

^


We are kind of saying the same thing.

Kris you are saying when ARC is on for a source all LFE goes to the sub and the Bypass setting is irrelevant

And I am saying that when whether ARC is on or off and Bypass is Yes all LFE goes to the sub.

You had the good fortune of being able to talk to the Anthem engineers and they told you ARC turned on overrides any Bypass setting.

I stated the fact the Anthem manual overlooks quantifying the subject.of the LFE Bypass, though they do implicitly state and detail all the other settings are disregarded.

It would be a good idea after Anthem has been queried over and over so many times about the LFE Bypass that Anthem add it to the manual for clarification.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42090#post_24014966
> 
> ^
> 
> 
> We are kind of saying the same thing.
> 
> Kris you are saying when ARC is on for a source all LFE goes to the sub and the Bypass setting is irrelevant
> 
> And I am saying that when whether ARC is on or off and Bypass is Yes all LFE goes to the sub.
> 
> You had the good fortune of being able to talk to the Anthem engineers and they told you ARC turned on overrides any Bypass setting.
> 
> I stated the fact the Anthem manual overlooks quantifying the subject.of the LFE Bypass, though they do implicitly state and detail all the other settings are disregarded.
> *It would be a good idea after Anthem has been queried over and over so many times about the LFE Bypass that Anthem add it to the manual for clarification*.



+1


Thanks for the clarification Kris. You to Stew.


----------



## SimonNo10


ARCResults.jpg 614k .jpg file

Targets.jpg 109k .jpg file


Hi guys. Been looking at one of these for some tweaking of the bass region:

http://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4 


Is anyone here using one of these with an Anthem D2v or similar processor? I'm running 2 Seaton submersives using balanced connections plugged directly into the processors sub inputs but I'm unsure how to connect the MiniDSP to the D2v as it only has RCA inputs and outputs. Other models have balanced output but there a different connection to the standard balanced 3 pin connector. I don't wish to turn this thread into a MiniDSP config thread so if someone can PM me that would be great or just provide me with a quick explanation. I've attached my Targets and subwoofer ARC results as well. Thanks in advance.


----------



## wingnut4772

My room gain is at 3.945749. If I want a bit more subwoofer impact should I raise or lower that number? I am confused. Thanks.


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42090#post_24015458
> 
> ARCResults.jpg 614k .jpg file
> 
> Targets.jpg 109k .jpg file
> 
> 
> Hi guys. Been looking at one of these for some tweaking of the bass region:
> 
> http://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4
> 
> 
> Is anyone here using one of these with an Anthem D2v or similar processor? I'm running 2 Seaton submersives using balanced connections plugged directly into the processors sub inputs but I'm unsure how to connect the MiniDSP to the D2v as it only has RCA inputs and outputs. Other models have balanced output but there a different connection to the standard balanced 3 pin connector. I don't wish to turn this thread into a MiniDSP config thread so if someone can PM me that would be great or just provide me with a quick explanation. I've attached my Targets and subwoofer ARC results as well. Thanks in advance.



Just use the standard RCA subwoofer output instead of the XLR one. They are all active.


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wingnut4772*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42090#post_24015530
> 
> 
> My room gain is at 3.945749. If I want a bit more subwoofer impact should I raise or lower that number? I am confused. Thanks.



That is the highest room gain already. If you haven't set the sun eq to flat in the arc setup that will help so long as your sub can play lower. You can also boost the sub level a few dB after the cal.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Small Correction: +4dB (which shows as slightly less for, umm, reasons) is the largest amount of Room Gain ARC will apply AUTOMATICALLY. I.e., if ARC thinks it has detected a higher inherent Room Gain in the room it will still only include +4dB in the Targets under the assumption that the Measured Room Gain is likely inaccurate.


However, you can MANUALLY increase the Room Gain above +4dB if you desire and ARC will incorporate that in the new Targets.



Wingnut4772,

Room Gain shows on the charts as the shallow hump in the Target curves near and below the Crossover frequencies. The Room Gain value is simply the height of the peak of that hump (in dB) over the basic volume level of the solution. The effect of Room Gain on what you hear is exactly what you might expect from the shape and location of that shallow hump.


So if you want to incorporate more bass you could raise Room Gain to make the hump taller. Note that ARC won't apply more than +6dB boost to try to raise the Measured curves to the Target curves, so if you add too much Room Gain you may end up with more residual errors -- deviations of the Calculated curves from the Target curves -- at dips in the Measured curves.


ETA: It's also useful to keep in mind that people who mix movie audio assume a modest level of Room Gain in home theaters -- say +2 to +4 dB. If you feel the need for lots more Room Gain, that suggests some other problem, such as your Sub's Phase adjustment not being set properly to match with the main speakers.

--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42100_20#post_24015871
> 
> 
> ^ Small Correction: +4dB (which shows as slightly less for, umm, reasons) is the largest amount of Room Gain ARC will apply AUTOMATICALLY. I.e., if ARC thinks it has detected a higher inherent Room Gain in the room it will still only include +4dB in the Targets under the assumption that the Measured Room Gain is likely inaccurate.
> 
> 
> However, you can MANUALLY increase the Room Gain above +4dB if you desire and ARC will incorporate that in the new Targets.
> 
> 
> 
> Wingnut4772,
> 
> Room Gain shows on the charts as the shallow hump in the Target curves near and below the Crossover frequencies. The Room Gain value is simply the height of the peak of that hump (in dB) over the basic volume level of the solution. The effect of Room Gain on what you hear is exactly what you might expect from the shape and location of that shallow hump.
> 
> 
> So if you want to incorporate more bass you could raise Room Gain to make the hump taller. Note that ARC won't apply more than +6d boost to try to raise the Measured curves to the Target curves, so if you add too much Room Gain you may end up with more residual errors -- deviations of the Calculated curves from the Target curves -- at dips in the Measured curves.
> 
> 
> ETA: It's also useful to keep in mind that people who mix movie audio assume a modest level of Room Gain in home theaters -- say +2 to +4 dB. If you feel the need for lots more Room Gain, that suggests some other problem, such as your Sub's Phase adjustment not being set properly to match with the main speakers.
> 
> --Bob


Thanks


----------



## wingnut4772

   


I just can't seem to get all 5 of my subs dialed in. These are my latest attempts. I changed the crossover on my mains and surrounds from 60/70 to 80. My partner says the subs just don't sound as boomy as they did before but before the charts didn't look as good either on my SMS1 or the Quick Check on the ARC.

How do they look?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

wingnut4772,

There's nothing wrong with your ARC chart for the Sub collection, so let's look elsewhere.


First of all, don't modify the values ARC Uploads into Setup (e.g., Crossover or Speaker Volume Trim levels). Any modifications you want to make have to be made in the ARC Targets, followed by a re-Calculation and re-Upload.


If you think you MIGHT have altered the values in Setup, the easiest fix is simply to re-Upload your current ARC solution.


Next, for the Source you are using for your critical listening tests, make sure Room EQ is ON -- that enables ARC processing for that Source. If the Source is using Analog audio input, then you also need to make sure it is set to ANALOG-DSP and not ANALOG-DIRECT. ANALOG-DSP is needed so the Anthem can digitize that Analog audio input for ARC processing. Also check that it is using the correct choice of Movie vs. Music bass management -- as I see you've got a different Sub Cutoff value for Music.


Next make sure that Dolby Volume is OFF for that Source.


While playing that Source, check that the Dynamics setting in the Anthem is "normal" -- press the "0" button a few times and see the on-screen displays.


Next, make sure you don't have any forgotten "temporary" speaker level adjustments active -- the ones that are enabled using the buttons around the Arrow buttons. It is easy to forget that you set some of those. You can get rid of ALL such "temporary" adjustments in one go by going into Setup and then:


1) Save User Settings


2) Reset Factory Defaults. If you lose video at this point, continue using the Front Panel Display.


3) Reload Saved User Settings


Since the "temporary" settings are not Saved, this resets all of them to 0dB.


Next check that the Subwoofer collection is actually coming out of standby when using this Source. If not, and if you are using Triggers, perhaps you have an error in your Triggers table.


Once you've confirmed that there are no obvious problems like that, then the next thing to do is check your levels with a calibration disc. I recommend the LPCM test tracks found on AIX Audio Calibration Blu-ray. Check with an SPL meter. Your Sub should actually read a little hot (due to Room Gain). If not, then you may have a problem in the output from your Blu-ray player.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42090#post_24015765
> 
> 
> Just use the standard RCA subwoofer output instead of the XLR one. They are all active.



Ok so it's that simple I just leave the subs XLR's plugged into the D2v and plug the MiniDSP using RCA's into the Sub output. Nothing else?


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42090#post_24016637
> 
> 
> Ok so it's that simple I just leave the subs XLR's plugged into the D2v and plug the MiniDSP using RCA's into the Sub output. Nothing else?


No, the MiniDSP needs to be in between the Anthem and the subs. So RCA from the Anthem to the MiniDSP, then to the subs.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok thanks Macca. I borrowed an Antimode 2.0 and it had Balanced connections but was left disappointed as there was an issue with it long story. So can I continue to use the balanced connections from the Submersives and then connect the MiniDSP using RCA's, plugging into the In's and Outs on the D2v?


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42090#post_24016870
> 
> 
> Ok thanks Macca. I borrowed an Antimode 2.0 and it had Balanced connections but was left disappointed as there was an issue with it long story. So can I continue to use the balanced connections from the Submersives and then connect the MiniDSP using RCA's, plugging into the In's and Outs on the D2v?


You'll only use the output from the D2v.

Basically:

D2v SUB output -> MiniDSP input, then MiniDSP output -> SubMersive input


Wether you use the balanced XLR connections on the D2v and SubMersive along with XLR to RCA adapters or just run RCA from the D2v to the MiniDSP then to the SubMersives is up to you. But the noise rejection benefits from using an active balanced XLR connection will not occur in either case due to the MiniDSP being RCA.


I'm guessing you've already got the long runs to the SubMersives in XLR. In that case just use RCA from the D2v to the MiniDSP then use the RCA-XLR adapters that come with the SubMersives from the MiniDSP to the XLR cables that run to the SubMersives.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10

Cheers for that Macca. I never got any adapters with my Submersives so will have to purchase some. Thanks again for the info regarding hook up.


*Update* Actually I was wrong I do have one adapter but never received one in the GB a few years back when I purchased the 2nd sub (2nd hand amp).


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42100_20#post_24016207
> 
> 
> wingnut4772,
> 
> There's nothing wrong with your ARC chart for the Sub collection, so let's look elsewhere.
> 
> 
> First of all, don't modify the values ARC Uploads into Setup (e.g., Crossover or Speaker Volume Trim levels). Any modifications you want to make have to be made in the ARC Targets, followed by a re-Calculation and re-Upload.
> 
> 
> If you think you MIGHT have altered the values in Setup, the easiest fix is simply to re-Upload your current ARC solution.
> 
> 
> Next, for the Source you are using for your critical listening tests, make sure Room EQ is ON -- that enables ARC processing for that Source. If the Source is using Analog audio input, then you also need to make sure it is set to ANALOG-DSP and not ANALOG-DIRECT. ANALOG-DSP is needed so the Anthem can digitize that Analog audio input for ARC processing. Also check that it is using the correct choice of Movie vs. Music bass management -- as I see you've got a different Sub Cutoff value for Music.
> 
> 
> Next make sure that Dolby Volume is OFF for that Source.
> 
> 
> While playing that Source, check that the Dynamics setting in the Anthem is "normal" -- press the "0" button a few times and see the on-screen displays.
> 
> 
> Next, make sure you don't have any forgotten "temporary" speaker level adjustments active -- the ones that are enabled using the buttons around the Arrow buttons. It is easy to forget that you set some of those. You can get rid of ALL such "temporary" adjustments in one go by going into Setup and then:
> 
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 
> 
> 2) Reset Factory Defaults. If you lose video at this point, continue using the Front Panel Display.
> 
> 
> 3) Reload Saved User Settings
> 
> 
> Since the "temporary" settings are not Saved, this resets all of them to 0dB.
> 
> 
> Next check that the Subwoofer collection is actually coming out of standby when using this Source. If not, and if you are using Triggers, perhaps you have an error in your Triggers table.
> 
> 
> Once you've confirmed that there are no obvious problems like that, then the next thing to do is check your levels with a calibration disc. I recommend the LPCM test tracks found on AIX Audio Calibration Blu-ray. Check with an SPL meter. Your Sub should actually read a little hot (due to Room Gain). If not, then you may have a problem in the output from your Blu-ray player.
> 
> --Bob



All this checked out. I did my adjustments in the ARC targets and uploaded. Dolby is off and Dynamics are normal. I leave my subs at On and not standby. I think it must be the phase issue , although this is the best I've gotten the charts to look. Prior to this chart I had the rear sub's phase at 180 ( my only options are 0 or 180) and the fronts at 0 and the listening result was harder hitting bass but the readings on the Quick Measure and the SMS1 weren't as good. More dips and peaks. I don't think the Oppo is to blame but I will check that next. Thanks again.


----------



## obie_fl

^I have a rear sub with a variable phase control and never could get it in phase with the front subs. It would dramatically drop my over all gain when turned on. The solution was to actually reverse the polarity of the signal. I changed mine by actually swapping the plus/minus leads on the internal drivers. You could also reverse the lines on your RCA or XLR input cable. The problem with amplifier phase controls is they often times only work across a narrow frequency band near the crossover frequency. If we had more then one sub channel on the D2 this would be easy to do but alas.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Your chart doesn't look like it has problems with Phase BETWEEN the Subs themselves, but you may still have a problem with Phase for the set of Subs compared to the main speakers.


The control you are talking about is actually a Polarity control. A Phase control would have a range of settings. Polarity and Phase are different, but combine together.


So, one approach would be to leave the individual Polarity settings as you have them now for each Sub, and make further adjustments using the Phase control in the Anthem itself.


First double check that ALL your speaker distances are set correctly. For the set of Subs, use the average of their distances from ARC mic position #1 since there is only one Sub distance setting. Phase is a function of distance so you have to set the distances first.


Now go to the Anthem's Setup menu and check the Subwoofer Polarity and Phase settings in Speaker Configuration. Any change you make to those settings will affect ALL your Sub's equally as there is only one, common Subwoofer signal generated by the Anthem.


So select the FM Source and set it temporarily to Stereo audio surround mode. Press Select multiple times and confirm that the audio input is L/R only (the stereo FM signal) and the audio output is L/R/Sub (i.e., Stereo audio mode output plus the Sub due to ARC's Crossover processing). ARC should be enabled for this FM Source. NOTE: It is best for this to set the Stereo mode as your Mode Preset default choice for the FM Source so that you don't get confused by the mode changing as you enter/exit the Setup menu (which is treated like a Source change).


Now tune to the hiss between FM stations. Turn the volume up to a level that will let you hear clearly -- say 70dB or so.


Now, while that hiss is playing, go into Setup and adjust the Subwoofer Phase control back and forth until you hear the loudest bass component in that hiss. Listen from center seating. Most of the hiss is NOT bass so you will have to take your time and listen carefully to hear the change in the bass portion. Sneak up on the candidate setting from both sides until you are satisfied you have found the best Phase setting. The effect will be subtle and you will likely find a range of Phase settings that sound pretty close to "best". Just pick the middle of that range. Compare to the Phase setting 180 degrees away to convince yourself that your candidate Phase setting really has more bass than this "wrong" Phase setting.


Write down that number.


Now, still in Setup, flip the Subwoofer Polarity to its opposite setting. Then do the exercise with picking a Phase setting again. Write down THAT number (which may very well be different).


Compare the two combos against each other -- i.e., the "best" Phase found for each of the two Polarity choices -- and pick the combo that seems to have the most bass. That's now your Polarity/Phase setting.


Then, just to be sure, go back and redo your ARC Measurements. ARC won't change the speaker distance or Sub Polarity/Phase settings, and indeed those settings won't make any difference in what ARC hears for the Subs since the main speakers are not playing at the same time as the Subs. So there really should be no difference in this new ARC Measurement, but do it anyway just as a double-check. Upload the new ARC result and give it a listen.


After Uploading the new ARC result, be sure to Save User & Installer settings to capture your speaker distances and Sub Polarity/Phase setting choices in those two memories.

--Bob


----------



## BuckeyeAmps

I thought I would pose this question from the MRX thread to see if I can get a clear-cut answer, as I know a few members chimed in a day/two ago but there seemed to be varying conclusions:


> Quote:
> After running ARC, my Subwoofer cuttoff (in the Target window) says 80Hz. I have been told by users in the D2v thread that the cutoff frequency DOES NOT change the LPF for LFE, meaning that even though my cutoff frequency is 80Hz for the sub, the LFE channel will still play the full range of the LFE soundtrack. Correct?
> 
> 
> Where it gets confusing is the varying input I am getting regarding how ARC handles the LFE content ABOVE the subwoofer cuttoff frequency. Some users are telling me that after 80Hz (my reported sub cutoff frequency), ARC let's the subwoofer play the LFE channel WITHOUT any filters applied (so after 80Hz the subwoofer frequency response will follow that of the uncorrected line, the red line). Others are telling me that even after 80Hz (my reported sub cutoff frequency), ARC still applies all calculated filters (so after 80Hz the subwoofer frequency response will follow that of the corrected line, the green line).
> 
> 
> Any clarification on the matter?


----------



## porschetech

I have a small problem now. I just got my new game consoles and I am now using upper and lower hdmi's. I'm using hdmi 5 for the xbox 360 and I have no sound or picture output. I'm using aux for source select and all I did was change from hdmi 4 to hdmi 5. Hdmi 4 is now labelled tv2 and I made that one custom preset. That works fine. Any suggestions as to what I'm doing wrong? The board have been upgraded 3d


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42090#post_24024883
> 
> 
> I have a small problem now. I just got my new game consoles and I am now using upper and lower hdmi's. I'm using hdmi 5 for the xbox 360 and I have no sound or picture output. I'm using aux for source select and all I did was change from hdmi 4 to hdmi 5. Hdmi 4 is now labelled tv2 and I made that one custom preset. That works fine. Any suggestions as to what I'm doing wrong? The board have been upgraded 3d



Try a different audio video source into HDMI5 so you can determine if the XBox is working or at fault


----------



## porschetech

Xbox works fine on hdmi 4. I wanted to keep both my xbox one and 360 as I still want to play the . I could try the rest of the lower hdmi's to see f there's a problem there. I know I have no issues with my sources. I could try the Apple TV there instead


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BigCoolJesus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42090#post_24024518
> 
> 
> I thought I would pose this question from the MRX thread to see if I can get a clear-cut answer, as I know a few members chimed in a day/two ago but there seemed to be varying conclusions:



I think Kris's posts settled it, LFE XOVER is bypassed automatically when ARC (ROOM EQ) is ON.


I edited my confusing post above after re-checking my own charts. There must still be some filtering above 120Hz because my green line drops very steeply at this point where my red line has all kinds of garbage.


In the end, the green line is the sum of all filters and should be what you are getting.


----------



## wingnut4772




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42100_20#post_24017449
> 
> 
> ^ Your chart doesn't look like it has problems with Phase BETWEEN the Subs themselves, but you may still have a problem with Phase for the set of Subs compared to the main speakers.
> 
> 
> The control you are talking about is actually a Polarity control. A Phase control would have a range of settings. Polarity and Phase are different, but combine together.
> 
> 
> So, one approach would be to leave the individual Polarity settings as you have them now for each Sub, and make further adjustments using the Phase control in the Anthem itself.
> 
> 
> First double check that ALL your speaker distances are set correctly. For the set of Subs, use the average of their distances from ARC mic position #1 since there is only one Sub distance setting. Phase is a function of distance so you have to set the distances first.
> 
> 
> Now go to the Anthem's Setup menu and check the Subwoofer Polarity and Phase settings in Speaker Configuration. Any change you make to those settings will affect ALL your Sub's equally as there is only one, common Subwoofer signal generated by the Anthem.
> 
> 
> So select the FM Source and set it temporarily to Stereo audio surround mode. Press Select multiple times and confirm that the audio input is L/R only (the stereo FM signal) and the audio output is L/R/Sub (i.e., Stereo audio mode output plus the Sub due to ARC's Crossover processing). ARC should be enabled for this FM Source. NOTE: It is best for this to set the Stereo mode as your Mode Preset default choice for the FM Source so that you don't get confused by the mode changing as you enter/exit the Setup menu (which is treated like a Source change).
> 
> 
> Now tune to the hiss between FM stations. Turn the volume up to a level that will let you hear clearly -- say 70dB or so.
> 
> 
> Now, while that hiss is playing, go into Setup and adjust the Subwoofer Phase control back and forth until you hear the loudest bass component in that hiss. Listen from center seating. Most of the hiss is NOT bass so you will have to take your time and listen carefully to hear the change in the bass portion. Sneak up on the candidate setting from both sides until you are satisfied you have found the best Phase setting. The effect will be subtle and you will likely find a range of Phase settings that sound pretty close to "best". Just pick the middle of that range. Compare to the Phase setting 180 degrees away to convince yourself that your candidate Phase setting really has more bass than this "wrong" Phase setting.
> 
> 
> Write down that number.
> 
> 
> Now, still in Setup, flip the Subwoofer Polarity to its opposite setting. Then do the exercise with picking a Phase setting again. Write down THAT number (which may very well be different).
> 
> 
> Compare the two combos against each other -- i.e., the "best" Phase found for each of the two Polarity choices -- and pick the combo that seems to have the most bass. That's now your Polarity/Phase setting.
> 
> 
> Then, just to be sure, go back and redo your ARC Measurements. ARC won't change the speaker distance or Sub Polarity/Phase settings, and indeed those settings won't make any difference in what ARC hears for the Subs since the main speakers are not playing at the same time as the Subs. So there really should be no difference in this new ARC Measurement, but do it anyway just as a double-check. Upload the new ARC result and give it a listen.
> 
> 
> After Uploading the new ARC result, be sure to Save User & Installer settings to capture your speaker distances and Sub Polarity/Phase setting choices in those two memories.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. Everything is set correctly but I am having a difficult time hearing the bass in the hiss. It is very faint, right?


----------



## AVfile

Wingnut,

Some test discs have special pink/white noise tones for checking phase.


----------



## wingnut4772

Thanks. I'll look through my old discs.


----------



## dmusoke


Hi: Are the RCA and XLR analog output live at the same time on the D2v? Can I connect loads to both outputs? I was planning on connecting XLR to my solid-state amp and RCA to my Bob Carver tube Mono Blocks.

 

Regards,

David


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24047014
> 
> 
> Hi: Are the RCA and XLR analog output live at the same time on the D2v? Can I connect loads to both outputs? I was planning on connecting XLR to my solid-state amp and RCA to my Bob Carver tube Mono Blocks.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> David



David,

This is from pg. 10 of the online D2v manual.  

From what it says, both XLR and RCA are active, and can be used at the same time if necessary.

If you are running just 2 channels to the Carvers you apparently also have the option of reassigning the SUB2 and CENTER2 XLR's and using them instead.


Tom


----------



## ManWithAPlan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42090#post_24027957
> 
> 
> Xbox works fine on hdmi 4. I wanted to keep both my xbox one and 360 as I still want to play the . I could try the rest of the lower hdmi's to see f there's a problem there. I know I have no issues with my sources. I could try the Apple TV there instead



Porschetech,


Let us know how you made out on things with this. By the way, I understand you want to keep both the XBOX360 and XBOX One active because you have old games for the 360 and all. Why not just use the HDMI input on the One and connect your old 360 directly into the XBox One, and then run ONLY the XBOX One to the D2? If I end up buying a One, this is likely how I'll do it. This way, you can still get the "slide-overs" in the One's GUI, on top of or to the sides of your 360's output. I am NOT convinced in using the XBOX One to route Cable TV or Satellite through directly, but others will likely disagree. But I do think that the use case of using the 360 *through* the One makes perfect sense. Especially for those that are running out of "virtual" inputs on the D2V, like myself 


Anyways, let us know what you did there.


----------



## mrevo2u

New to Anthem D2 and wondering if anyone is using two center channel speakers like is mentioned in the manual? Curious since I have an extra matching center and extra channels that are not being used.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The most common reason to use a 2nd Center speaker is if you have a very large projection screen -- keeps the dialog source from being entirely below or above the screen. You might also do it if your Center speaker is not good with louder volumes -- i.e., run 2 speakers with the volume to Center dropped by -3dB so that each of them is not being pushed quite as hard. The two speakers really should be identical in model so that there is no timbre difference between them.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24047668
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24047014
> 
> 
> Hi: Are the RCA and XLR analog output live at the same time on the D2v? Can I connect loads to both outputs? I was planning on connecting XLR to my solid-state amp and RCA to my Bob Carver tube Mono Blocks.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> David
> 
> 
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> This is from pg. 10 of the online D2v manual.
> 
> From what it says, both XLR and RCA are active, and can be used at the same time if necessary.
> 
> If you are running just 2 channels to the Carvers you apparently also have the option of reassigning the SUB2 and CENTER2 XLR's and using them instead.
> 
> 
> Tom
Click to expand...

 

Tom ...good to know. Thanks for the tip on XLR re-assignment but my Carvers only have RCA inputs unfortunately.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24049984
> 
> 
> Tom ...good to know. Thanks for the tip on XLR re-assignment but my Carvers only have RCA inputs unfortunately.




So

Tell us how you are planning on implementing the Carver tube amps


----------



## dmusoke


Right now, the Carvers are using the RCA outputs of the D2v and they perform as my Left/Right channels. The center and surrounds are powered by the Bob Carvers Sunfire TGA7401.  I intend to listen to 2Ch using the Carvers (Cherry colored VTA305M but upgraded with the new KT-150 power tubes PLUS a mod Bob Carver just did for me last week to accommodate the very low impedance of my Martín-Logan Spires which dip down to 0.7 ohms at 20 kHz).

 

Ultimately, the goal is to have a neutral audiophile speaker selection switch to select between the SS and Tube outputs. Know of any? Plus I need to get affordable but high quality IC cables(12 ft. ...know of any) but new speaker wire as well.

 

This is my first foray into tube related audio but my or my, it sounds so so good, very big and spacious. My sunfire amp simply can't compare to the sonics of his tube amps. Shocks the heck out of me for I'm trying to find out why this is so but my non-golden ears are happy indeed.

 

David


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi all. After receiving the upgrade of the Submersive amps (HP+x2) I've been playing around with Quick Measure and performed a calibration and after listening to a few BD's that I know very well I'm really satisfied with the results. Mains are JTR Triple 8's and Rears are JTR Slanted 8's.

http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/triple-8ht/ 

http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/slanted-8/ 



Graph1.JPG 635k .JPG file

Graph2.jpg 627k .jpg file

Targets.jpg 109k .jpg file


What I'm most pleased about is the fact for the first time ARC set all my speakers to 90. Every calibration I've performed in the past has never resulted in all speakers being set the same and after listening to the system for the last 2 days I can confirm that it just sounds more balanced and the Center now is clearer. I watched Flight of the Phoenix yesterday and it was stunning and the bass was incredible. I know the in room response for the bass is not perfect but it has allot of impact and very clean and tight. I'm sure the bass can be improved with some bass traps but I'm restricted in space so can't put any in the corners of the room. I had to add 2.5 Room Gain as I don't get any as I've got acoustic panels on both sides of the room plus diffuser ceiling panels as well, all purchased and installed by Acoustic Vision here in Australia after doing some measurements a few years ago before obtaining a D2v and have since changed main speakers. So at the moment very happy with how the system is sounding.


Any advice on tweaking or improvements are most welcome.


----------



## Thxtheater

Does anyone know if there is a way to set the EDID value for the HDMI connection in the Anthem? I'm experiencing oddities with two source devices that I believe is related to the HDMI connection. Cables are a non-factor. They have been verified and changed out with different manufacturers and different lengths including 2m.


One particular culprit is the Apple TV. If the Anthem and display are powered down and the AppleTV is left on and then the display and the Anthem are started back up, we will sometimes get video but no audio for the AppleTV. Apple's tech notes state that this is something that is symptomatic when there are receivers or switchers used between the AppleTV and the display.


I've been looking at products like switchers with EDID editing capabilities and also Dr. HDMI, but I was wondering if there was any such capability within the Anthem itself—the 50v/D2v specifically.


Anyone know the answer to this?


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Not in the Anthem. You need a device with an EDID capture memory like Dr. HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24055039
> 
> 
> ^ Not in the Anthem. You need a device with an EDID capture memory like Dr. HDMI.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. That's what I figured.


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ManWithAPlan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24048530
> 
> 
> Porschetech,
> 
> 
> Let us know how you made out on things with this. By the way, I understand you want to keep both the XBOX360 and XBOX One active because you have old games for the 360 and all. Why not just use the HDMI input on the One and connect your old 360 directly into the XBox One, and then run ONLY the XBOX One to the D2? If I end up buying a One, this is likely how I'll do it. This way, you can still get the "slide-overs" in the One's GUI, on top of or to the sides of your 360's output. I am NOT convinced in using the XBOX One to route Cable TV or Satellite through directly, but others will likely disagree. But I do think that the use case of using the 360 *through* the One makes perfect sense. Especially for those that are running out of "virtual" inputs on the D2V, like myself
> 
> 
> Anyways, let us know what you did there.



Haven't had a chance to do anything yet. Will let you know what I find


----------



## gcobb22

Question: And please forgive me if this has already been addressed...If Arc shows me that I have say a 10 db null from 200hz to 80hz & the solution only corrects 5 db of it, theoretically, would raising the bass tone cnrl 5 db do anything to correct that? I realize all of the bass would be added to, not just the null but I'm wondering if a null can even be treated if it is that pronounced (10 db). Anyone? Thanks


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24054865
> 
> 
> One particular culprit is the Apple TV. If the Anthem and display are powered down and the AppleTV is left on and then the display and the Anthem are started back up, we will sometimes get video but no audio for the AppleTV.



Do you have a 3D unit and video output set to THROUGH? There is a no audio bug when powering up the Anthem to a source set to THROUGH if the TV is OFF.


----------



## dmusoke


This concerns my use of Analog-Direct and ARC as well the Oppo 105 channel trims....

 

I happen to use Analog DSP for stereo sources and ARC for the rest. Now, I have set the trims in the Oppo 105 according the channel trim levels that ARC produced. Is this valid?


----------



## Johnsteph10

I know that there may not be an answer for this...but has Anthem announced/hinted at any future plans for HDMI 2.0/4K passthrough, etc. upgrades to our units? 4K isn't all that big this year but 2014 should see the introduction of 4K BD, more sources, etc. The displays are getting out there as is HDMI 2.0. Hopefully, Anthem won't be left behind!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24059808
> 
> 
> This concerns my use of Analog-Direct and ARC as well the Oppo 105 channel trims....
> 
> 
> I happen to use Analog DSP for stereo sources and ARC for the rest. Now, I have set the trims in the Oppo 105 according the channel trim levels that ARC produced. Is this valid?



Not enough information. Have you separately wired the Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs of the 105. Is the 105 set to Stereo Signal DOWN-MIXED STEREO? If so, the Analog output volume trims you've set in the 105 for its multi-channel Analog outputs are not used for that Analog Stereo connection.


In the Anthem, you say you use ANALOG-DSP for stereo analog sources. Did you mean do say ANALOG-DIRECT? If you are using ANALOG-DSP you should also use ARC for those stereo sources, since you are already telling the Anthem to re-digitize the Analog input.


As for "the rest" where you use ARC, do you mean 5.1 Analog input from the 105? Or HDMI? The Analog speaker volume trims in the 105 only affect its multi-channel Analog outputs (and the Dedicated Stereo outputs when Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT is set). If you are using 5.1 Analog input with ANALOG-DSP and ARC then don't do volume trims in the OPPO. ARC does that. If you are doing 5.1 Analog with ANALOG-DIRECT set (and thus no ARC), do all the settings in the OPPO. You can use the values ARC found as a starting point, but then recheck and adjust with a calibration disc, because the ARC volumes are also modified by the Room Correction parameters.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnsteph10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24060523
> 
> 
> I know that there may not be an answer for this...but has Anthem announced/hinted at any future plans for HDMI 2.0/4K passthrough, etc. upgrades to our units? 4K isn't all that big this year but 2014 should see the introduction of 4K BD, more sources, etc. The displays are getting out there as is HDMI 2.0. Hopefully, Anthem won't be left behind!



Nothing stated yet.


ASK.AGAIN.LATER -- THE.FUTURE.IS.HAZY


--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gcobb22*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24059693
> 
> 
> Question: And please forgive me if this has already been addressed...If Arc shows me that I have say a 10 db null from 200hz to 80hz & the solution only corrects 5 db of it, theoretically, would raising the bass tone cnrl 5 db do anything to correct that? I realize all of the bass would be added to, not just the null but I'm wondering if a null can even be treated if it is that pronounced (10 db). Anyone? Thanks



The reason ARC won't apply more than +6dB boost is that it is not a good idea to force higher levels of power into a speaker where a room null is just eating it up anyway. You are stressing the amp and speaker to minimal effect -- like trying to fill a bucket with a big hole in the bottom -- faster water in just means faster water leaking out. If you've got a deep dip like that, then start by repositioning the speakers (e.g. further from the wall). Quick Measure tool in ARC can help find a candidate location. Room treatments to cut bass reflections off the walls can also help.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24054865
> 
> 
> One particular culprit is the Apple TV. If the Anthem and display are powered down and the AppleTV is left on and then the display and the Anthem are started back up, we will sometimes get video but no audio for the AppleTV. Apple's tech notes state that this is something that is symptomatic when there are receivers or switchers used between the AppleTV and the display.
> 
> 
> I've been looking at products like switchers with EDID editing capabilities and also Dr. HDMI, but I was wondering if there was any such capability within the Anthem itself—the 50v/D2v specifically.
> 
> 
> Anyone know the answer to this?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



I was under the impression the AppleTV is on all the time. I do not have one but at a friends it appeared to always be on or in standby.


----------



## Kris Deering

It is. Even if the little white LED on the front isn't on and makes you think it is actually off, the HDMI output is still active. I have a DVDO Quick6 that shows you which inputs are live at any time and the Apple one is always on even when it appears that it is in standby mode.


----------



## Thxtheater

Correct. But you can also put it into a sleep mode after x hours. I have mine on all the time and still makes no difference. I have a complicated HDMI chain so it's not surprising. Once in a blue moon even my Oppo will not work and I'll need to reboot things


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gcobb22*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24059693
> 
> 
> Question: And please forgive me if this has already been addressed...If Arc shows me that I have say a 10 db null from 200hz to 80hz & the solution only corrects 5 db of it, theoretically, would raising the bass tone cnrl 5 db do anything to correct that? I realize all of the bass would be added to, not just the null but I'm wondering if a null can even be treated if it is that pronounced (10 db). Anyone? Thanks



Please post your charts so that we can see where the problem may be.


----------



## SimonNo10

Feel free to comment on the charts I posted above with any recommendations. Thanks.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24060812
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24059808
> 
> 
> This concerns my use of Analog-Direct and ARC as well the Oppo 105 channel trims....
> 
> 
> I happen to use Analog DSP for stereo sources and ARC for the rest. Now, I have set the trims in the Oppo 105 according the channel trim levels that ARC produced. Is this valid?
Click to expand...

 

 

Not enough information. Have you separately wired the Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs of the 105[*YES*]. Is the 105 set to Stereo Signal DOWN-MIXED STEREO? [*YES*].  If so, the Analog output volume trims you've set in the 105 for its multi-channel Analog outputs are not used for that Analog Stereo connection [*GOOD TO KNOW*].


In the Anthem, you say you use ANALOG-DSP for stereo analog sources. Did you mean do say ANALOG-DIRECT[*YES MY MISTAKE*]? If you are using ANALOG-DSP you should also use ARC for those stereo sources, since you are already telling the Anthem to re-digitize the Analog input.


As for "the rest" where you use ARC, do you mean 5.1 Analog input from the 105[*NO*]? Or HDMI [*YES*]? The Analog speaker volume trims in the 105 only affect its multi-channel Analog outputs (and the Dedicated Stereo outputs when Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT is set [*OK*]). If you are using 5.1 Analog input with ANALOG-DSP and ARC then don't do volume trims in the OPPO. ARC does that. If you are doing 5.1 Analog with ANALOG-DIRECT set (and thus no ARC), do all the settings in the OPPO [*OK*]. You can use the values ARC found as a starting point, but then recheck and adjust with a calibration disc, because the ARC volumes are also modified by the Room Correction parameters [*WILL DO*].

--Bob

 

 

Also, wouldn't I loose the sub frequencies if I set stereo signal to FRONT LEFT/RIGHT since I have the xover set to 100Hz?


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys a quick question. I have been able to get a 2nd hand SVS AS-EQ unit (I used to own one before purchasing the D2v) and just read the manual that I downloaded. My concern is this part in the manual:


Take the Calibration Microphone from your AVR or Pre/Pro (NOT the Calibration Microphone from the

AS-EQ1) and *plug it into the Pass-through Mic In jack located on the front of the AS-EQ1.*


3. Locate the calibration microphone “patch cable” that came with your AS-EQ1 (1/8” mono male connectors

on each end). Plug one end into the AS-EQ1’s Passthrough Mic Out jack, and the other end into the

Calibration Microphone input jack on your AVR or Pre/Pro.


The Mic that comes with Anthem is USB not a 1/8 Jack cable end so how do I connect the Anthems mic to the AS-EQ and does the D2v have a Microphone input jack for connecting the "Patch Cable"?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24073120
> 
> 
> Hi guys a quick question. I have been able to get a 2nd hand SVS AS-EQ unit (I used to own one before purchasing the D2v) and just read the manual that I downloaded. My concern is this part in the manual:
> 
> 
> Take the Calibration Microphone from your AVR or Pre/Pro (NOT the Calibration Microphone from the
> 
> AS-EQ1) and *plug it into the Pass-through Mic In jack located on the front of the AS-EQ1.*
> 
> 
> 3. Locate the calibration microphone “patch cable” that came with your AS-EQ1 (1/8” mono male connectors
> 
> on each end). Plug one end into the AS-EQ1’s Passthrough Mic Out jack, and the other end into the
> 
> Calibration Microphone input jack on your AVR or Pre/Pro.
> 
> 
> The Mic that comes with Anthem is USB not a 1/8 Jack cable end so how do I connect the Anthems mic to the AS-EQ and does the D2v have a Microphone input jack for connecting the "Patch Cable"?



The SVS AS-EQ1 was a unit made jointly by SVS an Audyssey. The instructions you quote are for Audyssey equipped units with Audyssey mics (or Audyssey Pro-Kits/mics).


Ignore these instructions and use the Mic that came with the AS-EQ1 and set up your subs. Its been a while since I had an AS-EQ1, but you will connect the sub1 and 2 out from the Anthem into the sub in on the AS-EQ1, and then out from the AS-EQ1 to your subs. Ignore any intructions about hooking up any other speakers.

When running the AS-EQ1's calibration it will generate its own test tones to equalize the subs. The Anthem doesn't need to be on or involved in any way during the AS-EQ1 equalization run.

If I remember correctly during the AS-EQ1 run it will go from sub1 to sub2 and then try to go to LF speaker and it will say it can't find the speaker. You will need to skip this step. I think you just hit the 'next' button, and it will then complete the sub sweeps and calibration.


After running and uploading the AS-EQ1 file into the AS-EQ1 , your subs are then ready for you to run ARC. Since ARC treats your subs as one just leave the AS-EQ1 turned on and run ARC as usual.


After running ARC I would suggest you follow the link on dmusoke's signature to tweak the phase for the subs. This isn't necessary, but highly encouraged to get everything just right.


SVS has an amazing customer service department, so if you have any problems don't hesitate to email them. I seem to remember getting help on the weekend from them. Hope this helps.

Tom


----------



## pinoy ako

deleted


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42120#post_24073356
> 
> 
> The SVS AS-EQ1 was a unit made jointly by SVS an Audyssey. The instructions you quote are for Audyssey equipped units with Audyssey mics (or Audyssey Pro-Kits/mics).
> 
> 
> Ignore these instructions and use the Mic that came with the AS-EQ1 and set up your subs. Its been a while since I had an AS-EQ1, but you will connect the sub1 and 2 out from the Anthem into the sub in on the AS-EQ1, and then out from the AS-EQ1 to your subs. Ignore any intructions about hooking up any other speakers.
> 
> When running the AS-EQ1's calibration it will generate its own test tones to equalize the subs. The Anthem doesn't need to be on or involved in any way during the AS-EQ1 equalization run.
> 
> If I remember correctly during the AS-EQ1 run it will go from sub1 to sub2 and then try to go to LF speaker and it will say it can't find the speaker. You will need to skip this step. I think you just hit the 'next' button, and it will then complete the sub sweeps and calibration.
> 
> 
> After running and uploading the AS-EQ1 file into the AS-EQ1 , your subs are then ready for you to run ARC. Since ARC treats your subs as one just leave the AS-EQ1 turned on and run ARC as usual.
> 
> 
> After running ARC I would suggest you follow the link on dmusoke's signature to tweak the phase for the subs. This isn't necessary, but highly encouraged to get everything just right.
> 
> 
> SVS has an amazing customer service department, so if you have any problems don't hesitate to email them. I seem to remember getting help on the weekend from them. Hope this helps.
> 
> Tom



Many thanks for the reply and assist. My concern is that it says this:

_The AS-EQ1 is designed to integrate with any Auto EQ system that may be part of your AVR or Pre/Pro._

*If you use the Auto EQ feature of your AVR or Pre/Pro (unless it is an Audyssey-equipped

device) to EQ your listening environment, you MUST perform this step first. If you do not, your AVR or Pre/

Pro and the AS-EQ1 will both apply EQ correction files to the subwoofer, which will result in poor subwoofer

sound/performance.*


So if I don't connect the Anthem's Mic and perform the task wont the D2v apply it's sub eq (ARC) over the ASEQ's? The last time I did this I owned a NAD T-175HD pre-pro with a Pro Audyssey Kit which was over 3 years ago. I'm a bit rusty with the SVS EQ unit which I take delivery of later today, it's being dropped off to my work as I'm working today (Sunday).


On a side note i decided to play around with Quick Measure and moved the front Submersive around and rotated the rear one to see if i could improve things but was very small changes. So after listening to the test tones I thought the rear Submersive was too low so I turned it up one notch and then turned the front submersive down one notch and ran Quick Measure. To my surprise the graph was much improved and brought up a dip making the in room response curve more flat than before (not perfect). This is the best result I've had thus far so I'm leaving it as is until the ASEQ arrives. I'm sure when I test using my Analogue SPL meter one of the subs is going to read over 75db and one will be below by 2-3db approx but ARC will adjust as necessary.


----------



## tngiloy

^

I understand your concern, but having used the AS-EQ1 with my D2 (before it died) without doing the 'auto eq' step with great success I know this is the way to go.

It will apply both correction files, but that's OK. More than OK. ARC will be correcting things that the AS-EQ1 didn't have the power to correct. In my case it sounded great. YMMV, ofcourse, but I bet you'll be very happy. If you're not happy please pm me and I'll be happy to take the AS-EQ1 off your hands (for the right price of course).


In the Anthem all you need to do is set the levels in section 3.5 for the 'test level' (using the controls in the D2v menu) and your subwoofers (using the gain controls on your subs) to 75db with an SPL measurement meter set to C-weight/ slow. Don't worry too much if the sub level in the Anthem setup is a little off of 75db, since ARC will correct for that. If its more than what ARC can correct for ( think it can correct up to 10db) or if you want your subs to read at exactly 75 db, then adjust each sub the same amount. It seems to me that the AS-EQ1 set my subs off by @4db, but ARC easily compensated for that.
*You will do this after using the AS-EQ1 sub equalization.* This will do what the 'auto eq' step does, which is only to level match the subs to your speakers. The AS-EQ1 only applies correction to your subs. The 'auto eq' does not do any room eq to your speakers. There is no way to connect for ARC and the AS-EQ1 together. They are apples and oranges in how their systems work. They can not be run together. But like apples and oranges, they taste really good when combined correctly.


But really, if you're concerned (and I can understand why you are) contact SVS support.They are excellent. Explain your situation. See what they say. They are pro's and this isn't their first rodeo for helping set up the AS-EQ1 with an Anthem ARC equipped unit.


Tom


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok i hooked it up and got the connection correct and ran the ASEQ calibration for each sub. I just finished running ARC and here is the result:

ARCwithASEQ.jpg 634k .jpg file


To say that it's the best I've ever seen my sub curve is an understatement. I'm yet to test the system as I've just now finished and posted here. Will need to fine tune ARC by adding some room gain and change the sub setting to flat and reload.


Update. Added graghs to show how it effected the rest of the speakers.

Gragh1.jpg 634k .jpg file

Targets.jpg 109k .jpg file


SVS ASEQ Before and after:

svssubeqresult.JPG 85k .JPG file


I've since added 3.0 room gain and changed the sub setting to Flat. I will test the system soon and see/hear the result.


----------



## xMEATx

Looks much better, congrats.


----------



## tngiloy

SimonNo10,


So I guess you won't be looking to sell the AS-EQ1 anytime soon. Were you able to get help from SVS ? I know they responded to me over a weekend when I was having concerns.


Your subwoofer graphs look much better. You still have a dip in your fronts around 250hz. Have you tried using QM and repositioning your fronts to smooth that out ?? It looks like ARC is taking care of most of the dip, but the less ARC needs to correct the better.


Tom


----------



## dmusoke


Simon;

 

I wouldn't randomly add ANY room gain until the 250Hz dip in the mains has been resolved by speaker positioning. Once resolved, then ARC will calculate a satisfactory in for you.

 

Secondly, it would hurt to increase your target frequency correction to 10kHz. Your speakers can handle it just fine.

 

Thirdly, it seems you used the dual discrete in - dual discrete out channel configuration mode for the AS-EQ1. Note that the Anthem see's both sub inputs as 1 input. Same for the outputs. They are identical outputs split into 2 signals.

 

Though physically wired in Dual discrete mode, I believe you should have used the One IN to two OUT mode as the Anthem doesn't output stereo bass signals. Both sub outputs of the anthem are exactly identical...but I'm curious about the Dual IN-Dual out mode you are using.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42150#post_24076728
> 
> 
> SimonNo10,
> 
> 
> So I guess you won't be looking to sell the AS-EQ1 anytime soon. *Were you able to get help from SVS ?* I know they responded to me over a weekend when I was having concerns.
> 
> 
> Your subwoofer graphs look much better. You still have a dip in your fronts around 250hz. Have you tried using QM and repositioning your fronts to smooth that out ?? It looks like ARC is taking care of most of the dip, but the less ARC needs to correct the better.
> 
> 
> Tom



I didn't contact them I got home from work and like an excited kid I hooked up the unit and proceeded with the calibration (8 positions). As it's been so long since I owned one of these I now remember something about the ASEQ setting subs low and after running ARC afterwards it set the trim to +8. I personally wasn't happy with that so pulled out the SPL meter and after adjusting each sub I ran ARC again and got it to -1.5. It's safe to say I'm keeping the ASEQ as I've been regretting selling mine when I owned one sub (SVS B4+ at the time). Thank you for for input and assist.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42150#post_24077218
> 
> 
> Simon;
> 
> 
> I wouldn't randomly add ANY room gain until the 250Hz dip in the mains has been resolved by speaker positioning. Once resolved, then ARC will calculate a satisfactory in for you.
> 
> 
> Secondly, it would hurt to increase your target frequency correction to 10kHz. Your speakers can handle it just fine.
> 
> 
> Thirdly, it seems you used the dual discrete in - dual discrete out channel configuration mode for the AS-EQ1. Note that the Anthem see's both sub inputs as 1 input. Same for the outputs. They are identical outputs split into 2 signals.
> 
> 
> Though physically wired in Dual discrete mode, I believe you should have used the One IN to two OUT mode as the Anthem doesn't output stereo bass signals. Both sub outputs of the anthem are exactly identical...*but I'm curious about the Dual IN-Dual out mode you are using*.



Thanks for the reply. I didn't think too much when I chose to select that option as it was how I had connected it but didn't give it any further thought on how the D2v handled it. Unfortunately I can't move the fronts anywhere due to the nature of the room so the 250hz dip is there to stay. So your curiosity is that in a negative way or positive and should I start again and select One IN to Two OUT. Will it make any difference at all when running ARC?


New charts after changing Target to 10kHZ and no room gain added but sub changed to Flat.

Graph1.jpg 635k .jpg file

Graph2.jpg 633k .jpg file

Targets.jpg 110k .jpg file


----------



## dmusoke


Simon ...my curiosity was in a positive way definitely and the more I think about it, the more it makes sense to me.

 

So you can't move your fronts but that null at 250hz or so is a room resonance null (all frequency anomalies under 300Hz are due to speaker-room interactions). ARC was forced to add so much gain in that region that no more resources were available to add any more gain.

 

Do you have bass/mid-bass room treatments that can help reduce (sometimes eliminate) this mid-bass dip? Since you are down-under, I can't recommend audio companies who'd sell you bass treatments but I'm sure you have plenty down there... and these things can look very pretty







.

 

 

David


----------



## Kris Deering

When using the AS-EQ1 I would only use a single sub out from the Anthem and select one sub in - two out in the AS-EQ setup when using Audyssey. YOU NEED TO RUN THE SAT CHANNEL OUT OF THE AS-EQ despite what you've been told in this thread already. Especially since you have dual subs in different parts of the room. ARC is limited in that it can't do any phase adjustments to speakers. The AS-EQ will not only properly phase your subs to the mains (and take into account its own processing delay) but also the subs to each other. This is imperative to giving you the best performance for your system. Make sure you enter in the distance it says for your sub when you're done running the calibration with the EQ before you run ARC in the D2V. Use actual distance measurements for the other channels in your system.


----------



## dmusoke


^

 

I have mine setup as you've described and though the Anthems produces identical signals on its dual sub outputs, I am curious about the discrete dual-in and dual output mode of the EQ1 for my 2 subs. I'd think it would be the best sub configuration?


----------



## dmusoke


For those who have the Oppo 105, have you passed the video output of your cable/satellite box into the HDMI-IN of the Oppo and have the Oppo process it instead of the cable/sat boxes or having the Anthem process the video? Which mode looks best?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42150#post_24077982
> 
> 
> When using the AS-EQ1 I would only use a single sub out from the Anthem and select one sub in - two out in the AS-EQ setup when using Audyssey. *YOU NEED TO RUN THE SAT CHANNEL OUT OF THE AS-EQ despite what you've been told in this thread already*. Especially since you have dual subs in different parts of the room. ARC is limited in that it can't do any phase adjustments to speakers. The AS-EQ will not only properly phase your subs to the mains (and take into account its own processing delay) but also the subs to each other. This is imperative to giving you the best performance for your system. Make sure you enter in the distance it says for your sub when you're done running the calibration with the EQ before you run ARC in the D2V. Use actual distance measurements for the other channels in your system.



Ah bugger really







Oh well it looks like I'm starting from scratch. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42150#post_24077937
> 
> 
> Simon ...my curiosity was in a positive way definitely and the more I think about it, the more it makes sense to me.
> 
> 
> So you can't move your fronts but that null at 250hz or so is a room resonance null (all frequency anomalies under 300Hz are due to speaker-room interactions). ARC was forced to add so much gain in that region that no more resources were available to add any more gain.
> 
> 
> Do you have bass/mid-bass room treatments that can help reduce (sometimes eliminate) this mid-bass dip? Since you are down-under, I can't recommend audio companies who'd sell you bass treatments but I'm sure you have plenty down there... and these things can look very pretty .
> 
> 
> 
> David



My room is treated (Side panels and ceiling diffusor and rear diffusor panels) but no Bass Traps (good ones) other than 4 foam ones that are in the front corner behind the right front speaker and there stacked. I purchased these ages ago before reading more about treatments so there not ideal. Again I'm very limited to where I can place Bass Traps due to the layout of the room. I think it may be best if i take some photos of the room and post them as it will be too hard to describe in detail without a massive post. I purchased all the treatments other than the foam bass traps from this company:

http://www.acousticvision.com.au/


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42150#post_24078364
> 
> 
> Ah bugger really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well it looks like I'm starting from scratch. Thanks for the heads up.



Sorry for the wrong info. Kris has forgotten more about sub setup than I will ever know so follow his instructions. I always use dmusokes null method to match phase between subs and fronts, but if the AS-EQ1 can do it easier then that's the way to go. I was told by SVS to skip that. I think they thought that ARC did phase matching.

FWIW the distance the AS-EQ1 chose for the sub setting was always the right distance for me, but my subs are right next to my fronts. I was probably just lucky.


But Kris, I don't understand why you suggest 1 sub out from the Anthem and 2 out from the AS-EQ1. I would think it would be 2 in and 1 out, or 2 in and 2 out. Please explain this to me if you would.


Tom


----------



## Kris Deering

Because the anthem doesn't treat them seperate. Use the subs volume and get it to 75 using the test tones in the as eq setup. I would also recommend program 1 for the cal on the Seatons. Do the whole cal and arc cal and when you're done go to program 2 on the Seatons if you want a bit of a low end bump as program 2 does a slight shelf lift on the low end.


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42150#post_24078443
> 
> 
> Sorry for the wrong info. Kris has forgotten more about sub setup than I will ever know so follow his instructions. I always use dmusokes null method to match phase between subs and fronts, but if the AS-EQ1 can do it easier then that's the way to go. I was told by SVS to skip that. I think they thought that ARC did phase matching.
> 
> FWIW the distance the AS-EQ1 chose for the sub setting was always the right distance for me, but my subs are right next to my fronts. I was probably just lucky.
> 
> 
> But Kris, I don't understand why you suggest 1 sub out from the Anthem and 2 out from the AS-EQ1. I would think it would be 2 in and 1 out, or 2 in and 2 out. Please explain this to me if you would.
> 
> 
> Tom



He can't do the null method. The Seatons don't have phase controls.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42150#post_24078387
> 
> 
> My room is treated (Side panels and ceiling diffusor and rear diffusor panels) but no Bass Traps (good ones) other than 4 foam ones that are in the front corner behind the right front speaker and there stacked. I purchased these ages ago before reading more about treatments so there not ideal. Again I'm very limited to where I can place Bass Traps due to the layout of the room. I think it may be best if i take some photos of the room and post them as it will be too hard to describe in detail without a massive post. I purchased all the treatments other than the foam bass traps from this company:
> 
> http://www.acousticvision.com.au/


 

I've looked at the absorption plots of the QuietSTONE series and AcousticART series are really nice as well but no data is readily available. Call them up before you make any purchasing decisions.


----------



## SimonNo10

Followed your instruction Kris in regards to the ASEQ and have just finished running ARC. Everything went smoothly and will post results once my laptop has finished uploading to the D2v. I saw the Chart from the ASEQ for the combined A-B Subs and it looked very Flat. Will post shortly once the upload is complete.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42150#post_24078458
> 
> 
> Because the anthem doesn't treat them seperate. Use the subs volume and get it to 75 using the test tones in the as eq setup. I would also recommend program 1 for the cal on the Seatons. Do the whole cal and arc cal and when you're done *go to program 2 on the Seatons* if you want a bit of a low end bump as program 2 does a slight shelf lift on the low end.



Can you tell me how to change the Program. Is it while the sub is off that you press the button so it's out then turn it on? The button is currently pressed in (Program 1).


----------



## xMEATx

^^ yes, the power to the subs don't have to be off, but the changes by pushing the button in or out will not take effect until power button is cycled.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42150#post_24078630
> 
> 
> ^^ yes, the power to the subs don't have to be off, but the changes by pushing the button in or out will not take effect until power button is cycled.



No worries thank you. Ok here are the results:

svssubcurvenew.JPG 86k .JPG file

Graph1.jpg 617k .jpg file

Graph2.jpg 629k .jpg file

Targets.jpg 109k .jpg file


I'm going to change the sub to Flat and change the speaker range to 10kHZ in ARC and upload and then change the program on the Seatons to 2.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42150#post_24078789
> 
> 
> I didn't see the chart for your front speakers. Just curious if using the added connection between the AS-EQ1 and the D2v FL speaker helped the 250hz dip you were having.



Sorry stuffed up and posted the same graph twice it's been fixed refer to graph 1, no it doesn't seem to have fixed it at all. I've listened to some DTS music on cd that i have that has strong bass and first impressions are the bass is lacking. This is after changing subs to flat and speakers to 10kHZ from 5kHZ. No room gain added. I've also been having major HDMI issues now between the Oppo and the D2v where there simply not connecting to each other. I've changed to a different cable and that fixed it but was getting audio drop outs. I put the other one back in but now using HDMI Audio 2 rather than HDMI 1 and no drop outs. It seems that every time I introduce something new the D2v has a hissy fit and stops working properly.


I just re-read your post Kris and realised I still had each sub connected to the D2v (Sub1-2) but chose 1 IN 2 OUT on the ASEQ before running the calibration. Would that have affected the result? The ASEQ sent a pink noise to each sub then did one combined. I hooked up the Left channel as well and that went fine.


I have purchased an RCA splitter and have connected it to the D2v Sub 1 Input and then connected the other ends into the ASEQ's Outputs. Will once again start over.


----------



## gcobb22

Thanks Bob


----------



## Kris Deering

I wouldn't turn ARC up above 5 kHz. Even the Anthem engineers I've talked to said the ARC mic isn't that reliable above 5 kHz. If anything I'd lower it. Reflections have more to do with your response above about 500 Hz than anything and the Anthem can't do anything about that.


If you only have two subs in your room you should be using one sub output from the anthem directly into the aseq. Then from the aseq you use both sub outputs, one to each sub. There shouldn't be anything going to the sub input on the anthem.


----------



## wingnut4772

My sync is off with my video set to through. Can it still be adjusted ?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42150#post_24080249
> 
> 
> I wouldn't turn ARC up above 5 kHz. Even the Anthem engineers I've talked to said the ARC mic isn't that reliable above 5 kHz. If anything I'd lower it. Reflections have more to do with your response above about 500 Hz than anything and the Anthem can't do anything about that.
> 
> 
> If you only have two subs in your room you should be using one sub output from the anthem directly into the aseq. Then from the aseq you use both sub outputs, one to each sub. There shouldn't be anything going to the sub input on the anthem.



Hey. This is what I did (I thought):


Two subs driven from one output. This is the most common configuration when running multiple subs.

You may have taken the subwoofer pre-out from your AVR or Pre/Pro and run it through a “Y” connector

to split the signal in two; one for each of your subwoofers. In this case, *remove the Y splitter and

attach the subwoofer pre-out to the Sub A input on the AS-EQ1. Connect one of your subs to the

Sub A output and the other to the Sub B output on your AS-EQ1.*


I didn't change ARC (most recent Cal) from 5kHZ I left it after listening to it at 10kHZ and it sounded very tinny like too much treble but I hadn't used a Y splitter then as I didn't have one so I bought one yesterday. So I have the Y Splitter plugged into the Output on the Anthem (Sub 1) then the other 2 ends going into the ASEQ's Inputs( A-B). Now that I have just looked at the diagram in the manual I just noticed that they are showing only one cable going from the pre-pro into the AESQ, I'm using 2 RCA's connectors where I believe I should be only using one? Oh man does that mean I have to start over? I just realized I never needed the Y splitter in the first place as I wasn't using one before, serves me right for doing this late last night. I'm an idiot.

Graph1.jpg 632k .jpg file

Graph2.jpg 627k .jpg file

Targets.jpg 109k .jpg file

SVSEQ16DEC.JPG 86k .JPG file


----------



## SimonNo10

Decided to start again now that I've got the connections correct. Wow this thread has suddenly gone quiet







. People must be back at work.


----------



## xMEATx

I donno, I look at the threads more when I'm at work...


----------



## pinoy ako

This is my latest measurement. Any comments are welcome.


I am not extending Max EQ freq because its becoming bright and not using flat because I am using Anti-mode and can apply house curve.


----------



## tngiloy

pinoy ako,


Your charts look very good. I agree with your decision to leave it at 5K.

I'll let the experts chime in, but I was more interested in your thoughts on the Anti-mode. Which model ?? Are you using it for subs only?? How many subs do you have?? How did your charts look before ?? How easy is it to use ?? Etc. ??


Tom


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24085027
> 
> 
> This is my latest measurement. Any comments are welcome.
> 
> 
> I am not extending Max EQ freq because its becoming bright and not using flat because I am using Anti-mode and can apply house curve.


Your charts look good. Does it sound good? Are you happy with what you are hearing? If you answer yes to the previous two questions, then you should just sit back and enjoy!!


----------



## pinoy ako




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24087016
> 
> 
> pinoy ako,
> 
> 
> Your charts look very good. I agree with your decision to leave it at 5K.
> 
> I'll let the experts chime in, but I was more interested in your thoughts on the Anti-mode. Which model ?? Are you using it for subs only?? How many subs do you have?? How did your charts look before ?? How easy is it to use ?? Etc. ??
> 
> 
> Tom


I have 8033S-II. Currently using with my dual fathom f113. Antimode is very easy to use. Connect the sub cable, mic, power on and push two buttons from antimode and your done. No steep learning curve. Set and forget, i am not an analyze guy...hehehe...Before antimode, sounds are good, but when i add antimode, another level of goodies. Everytime i watch the book of eli scene where a gatling gun was used to tear down the house, it really amazes me. I felt my face becoming thick because of the gunfight scene. Hahaha. Also the bar/club gun fight scene from Welcome to the Punch, with antimode i felt the guns are just around me. Bass is really tight and punchy. Gun impact was really nice. Its extending the holographic sound which is really wonderful. You can apply different house curve (lift modes) what ever you like on the fly. Antimode is really nice working with Anthem D2v.


@ninja12

I am really happy with the sound, thank you for asking.


----------



## Mark Seaton




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24085027
> 
> 
> This is my latest measurement. Any comments are welcome.
> 
> 
> I am not extending Max EQ freq because its becoming bright and not using flat because I am using Anti-mode and can apply house curve.



As we figured with Kris's system, you will definitely want to change the subwoofer response cutoff to about 60Hz to allow it to blend properly with your main speakers as your current setting will create lots of overlap between 60Hz & 120Hz.


The "Flat" or other setting for the subwoofer on the pop up window is only dependent on the VLF capability of your subwoofer, not if using the Antimode. It's probably fine as you have it set.


----------



## wingnut4772

Would setting the subwoofer to "flat" in ARC be the equivalent of running the system without any EQ processing at all? In other words, without the ARC engaged, would the subwoofers basically receive the LFE flat from the source?


----------



## pinoy ako




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Seaton*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24089182
> 
> 
> As we figured with Kris's system, you will definitely want to change the subwoofer response cutoff to about 60Hz to allow it to blend properly with your main speakers as your current setting will create lots of overlap between 60Hz & 120Hz.
> 
> 
> The "Flat" or other setting for the subwoofer on the pop up window is only dependent on the VLF capability of your subwoofer, not if using the Antimode. It's probably fine as you have it set.



Thanks a lot Mark for the sub response cutoff recommendation and "flat" clarification. I'm afraid combining "flat" and lift modes of antimode due to risk of clipping. Am I correct with this?


This is the updated correction using 60hz sub response cutoff:


----------



## Kris Deering

I would use Flat for the subs. If not the Anthem is trying to apply a rolloff on the bottom end of the your sub output. Then you're using Antimode to create a house curve, which means you're trying to bump the response up after Anthem has taken it down. Flat takes the Anthem out of the process for the lowest end.


----------



## pinoy ako




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24090127
> 
> 
> I would use Flat for the subs. If not the Anthem is trying to apply a rolloff on the bottom end of the your sub output. Then you're using Antimode to create a house curve, which means you're trying to bump the response up after Anthem has taken it down. Flat takes the Anthem out of the process for the lowest end.



You are right Kris. Thanks for the explanation.


Earlier, Mark recommend to use 60hz for the sub cutoff from 120hz. Lots of people here recommend not to "touch" the solution provided by ARC. Confuse which to follow.


----------



## Kris Deering

Use Mark's advise on this one. Otherwise the crossovers are bizarre. We learned this in my room as well when Mark came out for my GTG.


----------



## SimonNo10

I redid the Cal from the start on the ASEQ (with the correct connection-One RCA from the D2v into the ASEQ etc and selected the right combination on the select screen 1 IN 2 OUT) then ran ARC and I'm satisfied with the sound. New graphs:

Graph1.jpg 633k .jpg file

Graph2.jpg 633k .jpg file

Targets.jpg 109k .jpg file


I have since added 2.5 room gain and dropped the Max Eq to 4K and changed the Subs to Flat as per your advice Kris (the EQ not the gain or subs). Thanks.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pinoy ako*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24089486
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Seaton*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24089182
> 
> 
> As we figured with Kris's system, you will definitely want to change the subwoofer response cutoff to about 60Hz to allow it to blend properly with your main speakers as your current setting will create lots of overlap between 60Hz & 120Hz.
> 
> 
> The "Flat" or other setting for the subwoofer on the pop up window is only dependent on the VLF capability of your subwoofer, not if using the Antimode. It's probably fine as you have it set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot Mark for the sub response cutoff recommendation and "flat" clarification. I'm afraid combining "flat" and lift modes of antimode due to risk of clipping. Am I correct with this?
> 
> 
> This is the updated correction using 60hz sub response cutoff:
Click to expand...

 

My reservation with this scheme is this ... when watching movies, LFE sound effects will be severely limited as they are only sent through the subwoofer and not through the mains. LFE is mandated by Dolby Labs to have a bandwidth up to 120Hz, so limiting yourself to only 60Hz will greatly soften these effects.

 

IMHO, I would leave the Movie setting to 120Hz to take advantage of all LFE but leave the Music setting to 60Hz if you have to for 2.0 or MCH music sources. Make sure you set 2.1 output format for 2.0 sources else your sub will be silent and won't get the full range your music is capable of. 

 

In general, remember that subwoofers do a much better job of producing the lowest of frequencies than the L/R mains with much lower distortion at higher SPLs. That's what they are designed for to begin with. Just because your mains show a frequency response curve that outputs down well below 100Hz, doesn't mean they can effectively work just as a sub or better than a sub.

 

IMHO, let subs do what it does best and offload the mains to do what they do best.

 

 

- David


----------



## stevelup

It doesn't work like that though does it?


The crossover curve is only applied in relation to the bass management of the other channels. The LFE channel is always passed through in full (right up to 120Hz) regardless of the crossover setting.


----------



## tngiloy

David,

Kris was told by the Anthem engineers that all LFE was sent to the subs when ARC was applied, so stevelup is right.


I have always had such good bass response results leaving the sub cutoff at what ARC sets that I don't change it --- either up or down. But I would be interested to find out what pinoy ako thinks about the sound in his system if he tries lowering the cutoff to 60hz.


pinoy ako,

If you do try the 60hz setting please post your impressions. And your charts.


Tom


----------



## jo5507

I'm a bit confused by the cutoff vs crossover settings and the discussions about changing sub crossover points. The cutoff in the Targets window is not the same as the actual crossover ARC applies to the bass manager, as noted in the comments section of the Targets window. In my case the sub cutoff in Targets is 115Hz and the actual crossover loaded by ARC in Bass Manager is 75Hz. I leave the ARC settings alone for Movies but use a lower crossover setting in the Bass Manager Music menu, which I use for my 2 channel music. I have not changed the cutoff's, only the crossover settings in Bass Manager for music. I asked Tech Support about this and they agreed the value should be adjusted in the Bass manager menu, not Targets. It appears that some members here are changing the Targets cutoff values when they want to adjust their crossover points. Comments?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stevelup*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24097468
> 
> 
> It doesn't work like that though does it?
> 
> 
> The crossover curve is only applied in relation to the bass management of the other channels. The LFE channel is always passed through in full (right up to 120Hz) regardless of the crossover setting.


 

OK... so when you purposefully limit your sub's response, are you saying ARC ignores these new limits you've imposed on it and sends the full 120Hz LFE signal to the sub regardless? And when a non-LFE signal such as in a standard music/concert DVD is sent to the sub, then the limits apply?

 

Sorry for being so clueless







...

 

 


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24097771
> 
> 
> David,
> *Kris was told by the Anthem engineers that all LFE was sent to the subs when ARC was applied, so stevelup is right*.
> 
> 
> I have always had such good bass response results leaving the sub cutoff at what ARC sets that I don't change it --- either up or down. But I would be interested to find out what pinoy ako thinks about the sound in his system if he tries lowering the cutoff to 60hz.
> 
> 
> pinoy ako,
> 
> If you do try the 60hz setting please post your impressions. And your charts.
> 
> 
> Tom


 

Thanks Tom...but I always thought LFE was completely governed by the sub's response. So since the poster's sub has response all the way to 200Hz (and beyond) but he limits it to 60Hz, then ARC will ignore this 60Hz limit and nonetheless pass the full 120Hz LFE to his sub?


----------



## stevelup




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180_20#post_24101267
> 
> 
> OK... so when you purposefully limit your sub's response, are you saying ARC ignores these new limits you've imposed on it and sends the full 120Hz LFE signal to the sub regardless? And when a non-LFE signal such as in a standard music/concert DVD is sent to the sub, then the limits apply?



Yes, that is my understanding.


If you think about it, anything else wouldn't make sense as it would mean you were losing LFE content if you had the crossover set to anything other than 120Hz.


----------



## dmusoke


Thanks Steve







!


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kris Deering*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42090#post_24014834
> 
> 
> I've had numerous conversations about this with the engineers at anthem and as I said if you have room eq turned on the LFE setting in the menu does nothing at all but the bypass is engaged so all the LFE info is indeed going to the sub. This is straight from the designers.





> Quote:
> Thanks Tom...but I always thought LFE was completely governed by the sub's response. So since the poster's sub has response all the way to 200Hz (and beyond) but he limits it to 60Hz, then ARC will ignore this 60Hz limit and nonetheless pass the full 120Hz LFE to his sub?



A few pages back we were questioning if the 'bypass LFE crossover' option in the SPEAKER CONFIGURATION>BASS MANAGEMENT section of the D2v setup menu needed to be turned on if ARC was applied to that source. If I understand Kris correctly, when ARC is on it acts as if the 'bypass LFE crossover' is set to yes and all the LFE goes to the subs, regardless of what ARC has set for the x-over and cutoff.


Tom


----------



## runninkyle17

If anyone has firmware 3.09H could you PM me. I have having the same issues with Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD audio since I have upgraded to the 3D board and firmware 3.10. Thanks in advance.


----------



## AVfile

For D2v or 50v?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24103132
> 
> 
> If anyone has firmware 3.09H could you PM me. I have having the same issues with Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD audio since I have upgraded to the 3D board and firmware 3.10. Thanks in advance.



Check your PM


Describe what in particular is the problem you are having ?


----------



## SimonNo10

Decided to try and improve the front speaker response by using a different pair of speaker stands (older pair I own) that were about 1 foot lower than the ones I was using. I ran quick Measure and it didn't show the 250hz (Not that I could see using an Atom Laptop) dip that was in my previous ARC results and I moved the Left/Right Front speakers further out by a foot from the back wall and going by Quick Measure it looked like it had improved. But after running ARC again it really didn't change that much if at all:

Graph1.jpg 633k .jpg file

Graph2.jpg 629k .jpg file

Targets.jpg 107k .jpg file


What I find strange is and it's not the first time is that ARC sets my rears to 115hz the last 3 times but this time it sets them to 90hz. This has happened before but I try and use the same height for the Mic and exactly the same positions I've always used. Bass is now set to 85hz from 90hz. I'm not complaining as they sound better set at 90hz.


----------



## runninkyle17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24104111
> 
> 
> Check your PM
> 
> 
> Describe what in particular is the problem you are having ?



When the audio source is TrueHD or DTS-HD (lossless format) then the D2v will read the audio signal as PCM or Digital and no sound will be output to the speakers. I running this from my HTPC. If I use bitstream audio then the D2v will not output the sound. If I use another program that converts the audio to lossy 5.1 or stereo then the D2v will output the sound. It seems there is a bug. I have not tried it with my bluray player yet, but I was reading some posts in the thread and it seems this is not an isolated issue.


----------



## obie_fl

If I understand your issue correctly, that is you're unable to decode or bitstream TrueHD or DTS-HD that is not uncommon with HTPCs. It is usually a result of the PC not reading the EDID properly. Assuming your HTPC is properly configured a lot of people have had good luck with the Gefen HDMI Detective.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24105749
> 
> 
> When the audio source is TrueHD or DTS-HD (lossless format) then the D2v will read the audio signal as PCM or Digital and no sound will be output to the speakers. I running this from my HTPC. If I use bitstream audio then the D2v will not output the sound. If I use another program that converts the audio to lossy 5.1 or stereo then the D2v will output the sound. It seems there is a bug. I have not tried it with my bluray player yet, but I was reading some posts in the thread and it seems this is not an isolated issue.



I agree with Obie_fl.

The D2v has never had a problem with Dolby or DTS lossless audio streams. You can send it bitstream or pass through.

As a test try another HDMI source such as a blu ray player

Were you able to get Lossless audio before the 3D update ?

Are you using HDMI from your HTPC ? From the MB or the GPU.?

Some Intel CPUs require special drivers or Intel CPUs require the Management Engine driver

Are you using Through form the video output ?


----------



## runninkyle17

I am using the Gefen HDMI detective. My HTPC was able to perfectly play DTS-HD and TrueHD before the 3D board upgrade.


I am using Win7 with Sharks codecs and my video card is AMD 6850. Audio is being bitstreamed. The only change made to the whole system is the 3D board upgrade and firmware update. Everything before the update was working perfectly.


On the HDMI detective, should I try and reset the EDID? I wouldn't think so since everything else works fine. Only 7.1 sources seem to be causing problems.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24107011
> 
> 
> The only change made to the whole system is the 3D board upgrade and firmware update.



Same Video Output Config or are you now using Pass Through?


----------



## runninkyle17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24107176
> 
> 
> Same Video Output Config or are you now using Pass Through?



I checked the video output config. Didn't change anything, but I did not see a Pass Through option in there anyway.


Got 3.09H firmware installed. Still having the same issue. Seems that only 7.1 sources or stuff labeled DTS-HD/TrueHD is causing problems when running through my HTPC. I tried to reproduce the problem with my bluray player and it seems that it is able to play DTS-HD just fine. However, even after my searching I could not find any 7.1 sources. I really thought I had some TrueHD material around here.


I am going to try out some DTS-HD files and TrueHD files from my HTPC (just the Dolby official tracks). It might be how the particular movies that I am trying are encoded.


If it does end up being an HTPC issue, does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix it?


AMD 6850 GPU with HDMI audio support

Shark Win7 codecs (setup to bitstream DTS-HD and TrueHD)

Media Player Classic Black Edition setup correctly

Gefen HDMI Detective


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24108679
> 
> 
> I checked the video output config. Didn't change anything, but I did not see a Pass Through option in there anyway.



It's in Source Setup. You'll need to set it to THROUGH to bypass the video processor or watch 3D.


What I was thinking was, if it was set since the "3D upgrade" then you have significantly changed the HDMI chain and may wish to try a different setting.


----------



## runninkyle17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42180#post_24108765
> 
> 
> It's in Source Setup. You'll need to set it to THROUGH to bypass the video processor or watch 3D.
> 
> 
> What I was thinking was, if it was set since the "3D upgrade" then you have significantly changed the HDMI chain and may wish to try a different setting.



The THROUGH setting is not in Source Setup when I look. Also, I tried DTS-HD and TrueHD test tracks that I know for a fact were working perfectly before the 3D board upgrade. This is getting a bit frustrating. The only thing that has changed in the whole system is the 3D board upgrade and the firmware upgrade.


DTS 5.1, Dolby Pro Logic 5.1 tracks work just fine and register correctly. My computer is configured for 7.1 speaker config as it needs to be. The display on the D2v reads 7.1 PCM when playing the Dobly TrueHD track, but no sound output at all. The D2v display only reads Digital with no 7.1 or 5.1 reading when playing the DTS-HD track.


----------



## Kimeran

I'm asking this here cause I heard that there is an Anthem Rep that comes into this thread.


But I was wondering, does the "Analog-Direct" function still put the signal through the ADC and DAC just not perform any EQ on the signal? Or does it bypass the ADC and DAC entirely?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kimeran*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24110092
> 
> 
> I'm asking this here cause I heard that there is an Anthem Rep that comes into this thread.
> 
> 
> But I was wondering, does the "Analog-Direct" function still put the signal through the ADC and DAC just not perform any EQ on the signal? Or does it bypass the ADC and DAC entirely?



When you set the D2v to Analog Direct it bypasses the DAC and there is no Room EQ option available in the source setup.

The only thing in the analog path are the op-amps for the volume control.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24109560
> 
> 
> The THROUGH setting is not in Source Setup when I look. Also, I tried DTS-HD and TrueHD test tracks that I know for a fact were working perfectly before the 3D board upgrade. This is getting a bit frustrating. The only thing that has changed in the whole system is the 3D board upgrade and the firmware upgrade.
> 
> 
> DTS 5.1, Dolby Pro Logic 5.1 tracks work just fine and register correctly. My computer is configured for 7.1 speaker config as it needs to be. The display on the D2v reads 7.1 PCM when playing the Dobly TrueHD track, but no sound output at all. The D2v display only reads Digital with no 7.1 or 5.1 reading when playing the DTS-HD track.



The THROUGH setting is only available on HDMI 1-4 connections. Under Source Setup scroll through Video Outputs Cnfg.

You should have choices 1-4 and THROUGH.

Note: If you use THROUGH you will not have audio on HDMI 2 out.

Note: You only need THROUGH for BluRay 3D video output. If you rip a 3D Blu Ray to SBS or Top/Bottom viewed with polarized glasses you do not need to use THROUGH.


Are the Blu Ray videos you are playing ripped files ?

Are you using MakeMKV or DVDFab to rip your files. You may not be getting the lossless audio streams.

Some BluRay discs I encountered said something like Uncompressed 7.1 PCM

or something like that. They were only 48k PCM. NOT lossless streams

They were not DTS HD Master or Dolby True HD audio.

If a ripped BD try using Media Info and check the audio files that are in the video you are using.


I asked before.

Are you using HDMI connection on the video card or on the motherboard ?

And you are using that HDMI connection for your audio ?


----------



## runninkyle17

HDMI connection from GPU. Using the HDMI for audio. Configured correctly in D2v setup.


Mediainfo shows proper DTS-HD Master audio when looking at the audio track.


----------



## obie_fl

Did you do the 3D upgrade yourself? I believe there were issues earlier where the board wasn't physically installed correctly and I beleive there was a very specific order in which the firmware add to be installed. Try searching this thread.


I'm concerned that you don't have a through setting, sounds like something didn't take.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24111112
> 
> 
> HDMI connection from GPU. Using the HDMI for audio. Configured correctly in D2v setup.
> 
> 
> Mediainfo shows proper DTS-HD Master audio when looking at the audio track.



Did you check in Setup under Video Output Cnfg for THROUGH ? I believe it is Line "B"


----------



## Marke001

Wondering if people could take a look at my graphs and pick the problem areas .

I am a bit limited by placement and room layout but looking for any improvements I can make

where feasable ?


----------



## thestewman

My suggestions which are from an unprofessional viewpoint.

There are some strong 100 to 200 khz peaks and dips in both the right and left fronts. I would try to reposition the front speakers and use Quick Measure to see if the changes help.

The critical area are the left front at 125 khz and the center at 80 and 150 khz.

You might try to see if you can move them forward or back slightly or change the aiming to help alleviate the frequency dips.

ARC has helped a lot on the right front but was unable to eliminate the dips on the left front and center speakers.

Overall it should sound good. Your sub looks very good


----------



## dmusoke


Mark:

 

I would definately move the left front speaker around to eliminate the dip between 100Hz and 200Hz. That is a room mode. If you don't have room trearments(bass traps) behind your speaker, i would do so. They are good at absorbing resonant frequencies under 500Hz.

 

I would move the center speaker closer to the wall for better bass loading to reduce the swings between 50Hz - 200Hz.

 

Lastly, your right rear speaker placement to be optimized if possible. Superb sub by the way ...

 

My 2 cents...

 

David


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24135815
> 
> 
> My suggestions which are from an unprofessional viewpoint.
> 
> There are some strong 100 to 200 *khz* peaks and dips in both the right and left fronts. I would try to reposition the front speakers and use Quick Measure to see if the changes help.
> 
> The critical area are the left front at 125 *khz* and the center at 80 and 150 *khz*.
> 
> You might try to see if you can move them forward or back slightly or change the aiming to help alleviate the frequency dips.
> 
> ARC has helped a lot on the right front but was unable to eliminate the dips on the left front and center speakers.
> 
> Overall it should sound good. Your sub looks very good


 

Wow, these speakers are amazing. I wasn't aware ARC sampled that high







..


----------



## Marke001

Thanks very much for the suggestion guys it gives me some idea now of where to start

to find tune things a bit. But limited for movement as I said but will see what the response

Is like with some repositioning . At least the sub is good a paradigm Sub1 btw









Mark


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24137105
> 
> 
> Wow, these speakers are amazing. I wasn't aware ARC sampled that high ..



I noticed that extended response also.

I have never seen ARC respond above 5000 khz without changing ARC to a Max frequency higher than 5000khz. and never at that flat a curve

I wonder how this came about ?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Marke001*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24137312
> 
> 
> Thanks very much for the suggestion guys it gives me some idea now of where to start
> 
> to find tune things a bit. But limited for movement as I said but will see what the response
> 
> Is like with some repositioning . At least the sub is good a paradigm Sub1 btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



The Anthem Subs are awesome. I had a SUb 1 until Anthem delivered my Sub 2.


----------



## obie_fl

The word of the day is "K" as in Kilo. Stew you need to drop some zeroes or the "K".










Nice to know ARC can help my dogs listening experience though.


----------



## Marke001




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24139034
> 
> 
> I noticed that extended response also.
> 
> I have never seen ARC respond above 5000 khz without changing ARC to a Max frequency higher than 5000khz. and never at that flat a curve
> 
> I wonder how this came about ?
> 
> The Anthem Subs are awesome. I had a SUb 1 until Anthem delivered my Sub 2.



May be the beryllium tweeters and the fact they are level with the listening position ?

Mark


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24139099
> 
> 
> The word of the day is "K" as in Kilo. Stew you need to drop some zeroes or the "K".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice to know ARC can help my dogs listening experience though.



Yes. My typing mistake. Good catch


----------



## obie_fl

Well David caught it first but you missed his







and ran with it


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Marke001*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24137312
> 
> 
> Thanks very much for the suggestion guys it gives me some idea now of where to start
> 
> to find tune things a bit. But limited for movement as I said but will see what the response
> 
> Is like with some repositioning . At least the sub is good a paradigm Sub1 btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Anthem Subs are awesome. I had a SUb 1 until Anthem delivered my Sub 2.
Click to expand...

 

$10K for a Sub 2







?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24139323
> 
> 
> $10K for a Sub 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?



Nope. I bought it when it first came out and the original price it was substantially less.

Then there was a substantial discount from my dealer


----------



## ttlnb

The 100-200hz dip might be wall interference. I forget the technical name and it has to do with the wavelength and cancellation, etc. Beyond me but a local acoustician explained it to me. Anyway, the closer you move the speaker to a wall this cancellation will happen at a higher frequency, the further away the speaker lower the frequency it will occur. For an 80hz crossover the speakers have to 3.5ft or greater from the wall to get this phenomenon below the crossover point. There are other solutions as well like moving the speakers closer and treating the wall. This is one of those things EQ can't fix. See what happens when you move your speakers.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24139939
> 
> 
> when it first came out and the original price it was substantially less.



I noticed that too. Even the Sub-1 has increased 2 g's in as many years.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24143123
> 
> 
> I noticed that too. Even the Sub-1 has increased 2 g's in as many years.



Good deals with substantial savings can be had


----------



## Marke001

Yep I paid almost half retail just recently for my sub 1


----------



## Marke001

After getting feedback from everyone I played around with the speaker positions a little - dont have much leaway , and moved the listening position (couch)

forward a little . So while not ideal I think the results are a little easier on arc this time around.

edit to reupload images for missing graphs


----------



## thestewman

Two things. I do not see any improvement in the actual measured response.

Your charts are missing the displayed graph line were ARC actually made the changes.

Your graphs only have the measured response and the changes ARC would attempt to make


----------



## Kris Deering

Looks good to me.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Marke001*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24143323
> 
> 
> After getting feedback from everyone I played around with the speaker positions a little - dont have much leaway , and moved the listening position (couch)
> 
> forward a little . So while not ideal I think the results are a little easier on arc this time around.


 

Open ARC ---> View ---> Show Calculated


----------



## Marke001

Dont know why it didnt show I just recaptured and updated


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You are good to go. Enjoy!

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Marke001*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24143553
> 
> 
> Dont know why it didnt show I just recaptured and updated


Looks nice but in my view, since the LF speaker has no gain in the 100Hz region while the RF has the 4dB of room gain, i'd reduce the room gain maybe until the responses match in that region?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Marke001*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24143553
> 
> 
> Dont know why it didnt show I just recaptured and updated





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24146896
> 
> 
> Looks nice but in my view, since the LF speaker has no gain in the 100Hz region while the RF has the 4dB of room gain, i'd reduce the room gain maybe until the responses match in that region?



Your audio levels are too high. The recommended level is 75db.

I would redo ARC and set the audio levels properly using your Signal Level meter and the setup procedure for ARC in the manual.

Check the manual but if I remember you set everything to zero and use the LF as the level source and then you manually set the sub with the sub volume control.



I wish someone, maybe Bob P or Nick from Anthem could comment on why this particular ARC setup extends flat to 10 khz when set in ARC to 5 khz.


Could there be a microphone not normally supplied or shipped in error that has extended response ?


----------



## dmusoke


His microphone just fine. Its his front speakers that are really flat out to 10kHz so ARC simply follows the speaker response after 5kHz.


----------



## Marke001

I'm pretty sure my mike is nothing special it's most likely the speakers

and as I said before beryllium tweeters .


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42210#post_24112033
> 
> 
> Did you check in Setup under Video Output Cnfg for THROUGH ? I believe it is Line "B"



Kyle has mysteriously gone silent and did not answer all your good questions. I wonder if he found the setup error or had a botched 3D upgrade.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24147320
> 
> 
> 
> Your audio levels are too high. The recommended level is 75db.



Some people had this problem with the way the graphs are drawn in Windows 8. If not, does it really matter? A few extra dB might even help the measurements.


----------



## thestewman

You are right

It probably does not matter since Anthem says the level is for I think they said a reference level for the software which ARC resets during the processing.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24147583
> 
> 
> His microphone just fine. Its his front speakers that are really flat out to 10kHz so ARC simply follows the speaker response after 5kHz.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Marke001*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24148267
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure my mike is nothing special it's most likely the speakers
> 
> and as I said before beryllium tweeters .



This I have to disagree with.


Many Anthem ARC users have beryllium tweeters and even more exotic materials like diamonds and electrostatics etc that go to 40 khz and higher.

What is relevant is his system setting which is 5000 hz and ARC is going beyond that cutoff. ARC should not be going much beyond 5000 hz or should be dropping by several db after 5000


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24152183
> 
> 
> This I have to disagree with.
> 
> 
> Many Anthem ARC users have beryllium tweeters and even more exotic materials like diamonds and electrostatics etc that go to 40 khz and higher.
> 
> What is relevant is his system setting which is 5000 hz and ARC is going beyond that cutoff. *ARC should not be going much beyond 5000 hz or should be dropping by several db after 5000*


 

ARC doesn't drop off after the target frequency. It simply follows the speaker frequency curve after target frequency since all DSP coefficients are set 1.0 (or something equivalent) and then sent to the output dac. My ARC behaves like this and always has.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24152630
> 
> 
> ARC doesn't drop off after the target frequency. It simply follows the speaker frequency curve after target frequency since all DSP coefficients are set 1.0 (or something equivalent) and then sent to the output dac. My ARC behaves like this and always has.



I just can't follow that line of reasoning. It's too easy to say "Great beryllium tweeters are generating a frequency reponse signal never seen before ".

Until Marke001 posted his graphs no one ever had an ARC produced curve that extended to 10khz when set at 5 khz.

And when a user extended the curve out by changing the set up to 10k from 5k the curve would barely make it to 10k. And it would not be a smooth curve

Anthem has repeatably stated the ARC microphone was inaccurate past 10k and also stated fthat freq above 5k were very directional and the microphone was not accurate


Look at the attached freq response curve of my uncorrected system..

Uncorrected in the fact that ARC is off.

It goes easily to 10k the limit of the corrected microphone being used.

Yet when I run ARC set at 5k the curve drops like a boat anchor after 5k


Too bad someone from Anthem will not step up and comment here on what we are seeing and discussing.

FreqResonseCurve.JPG 207k .JPG file


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24152183
> 
> 
> What is relevant is his system setting which is 5000 hz and ARC is going beyond that cutoff. ARC should not be going much beyond 5000 hz or should be dropping by several db after 5000


His graphs show that ARC is indeed not going much beyond the 5 kHz limit. The red line stops around 7 kHz, which is where the uncorrected curve intersects the target curve. To cut off any sooner could impose a discontinuity into the response. The green response above that is simply the native response of his system, as interpreted by the ARC mic.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24153991
> 
> 
> Look at the attached freq response curve of my uncorrected system..
> 
> Uncorrected in the fact that ARC is off.
> 
> It goes easily to 10k the limit of the corrected microphone being used.
> 
> Yet when I run ARC set at 5k the curve drops like a boat anchor after 5k


You have a RealRTA plot showing this dropoff >5 kHz, or is it the ARC plot showing that? If the ARC curve, that's the nature of ARC mics. Not to worry, ARC is not touching your response >5 kHz.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Roger Dressler*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24155455
> 
> 
> His graphs show that ARC is indeed not going much beyond the 5 kHz limit. The red line stops around 7 kHz, which is where the uncorrected curve intersects the target curve. To cut off any sooner could impose a discontinuity into the response. The green response above that is simply the native response of his system, as interpreted by the ARC mic.
> 
> You have a RealRTA plot showing this dropoff >5 kHz, or is it the ARC plot showing that? If the ARC curve, that's the nature of ARC mics. Not to worry, ARC is not touching your response >5 kHz.



Roger

I must be coming a rock head in my old age but I see this completely different.

Look at Marke001's graphs and only at the left front and right front speaker graphs.

The red line is his system's measured response by ARC

The dotted line is what ARC is going to try and achieve as a result of ARC's correction to the systems response

The green line is the result of ARC applying correction..

When I look at the two graphs provided by Marke001 I see the green response curve going past 10k even though the system is supposed to only respond to 5k.

Now, no one is saying the tweeters are not capable of having good flat output past 10k or eve n 20k.

But ARC has been set to stop measuring and responding at 5k.

My argument is to look at any number of graphs on this forum with just as capable systems and never have i seen an Arc graph go past 5k when set up at 5k without a rapid fall off in the measured response by ARC


I presented my response curve as an example of a system without ARC applied, that easily goes smoothly past 10k and yet after I apply ARC just like every oyhjer graph presented here with a 5k setup, the response by ARC drops off rapidly after 5k


----------



## Roger Dressler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24156397
> 
> 
> Look at Marke001's graphs and only at the left front and right front speaker graphs. The red line is his system's measured response by ARC.


Yes, but that's not the whole story. The red line is the area where ARC measured a correctable response. The green areas above the red area (> 7 kHz in this case) are also the responses measured by ARC. But this part of the range will not be treated by ARC. So that part is the same before and after ARC is applied.



> Quote:
> When I look at the two graphs provided by Marke001 I see the green response curve going past 10k even though the system is supposed to only respond to 5k.


?? What system only responds to 5 kHz? Not the speakers, and not the measurement. Only the corrective ARC treatment stops at 5 kHz.



> Quote:
> Now, no one is saying the tweeters are not capable of having good flat output past 10k or eve n 20k. But ARC has been set to stop measuring and responding at 5k.


No, it stops _correcting_, not measuring.



> Quote:
> My argument is to look at any number of graphs on this forum with just as capable systems and never have i seen an Arc graph go past 5k when set up at 5k without a rapid fall off in the measured response by ARC


I have seen plenty of ARC plots fall off rapidly above 5/6/7 kHz, or have wild dips, but I think that is often due to the mic being unreliable in that range. Anthem was wise to recommend no correction be applied above 5 kHz. By the same token, no matter how lumpy or rolled off the response looks above 5 kHz, one can ignore it as it may not be accurate. The trouble starts when someone sees that rolloff, and forces ARC to "correct" it by setting the ARC cutoff to 10 kHz. It is applying correction to the mic's response, not the speaker's. so it results in harsh sound.



> Quote:
> I presented my response curve as an example of a system without ARC applied, that easily goes smoothly past 10k and yet after I apply ARC just like every other graph presented here with a 5k setup, the response by ARC drops off rapidly after 5k


Yes, yours is not an uncommon situation. Just ignore what the graphs show above 5 kHz.


----------



## tngiloy

I need to get a new laptop soon. Is there any problems running ARC or doing firmware upgrades using Windows 8 ??

There are still a lot of units with win7 for sale so I shouldn't have any trouble finding either win7 or win8 in my price range, but since I will be using it for ARC if end up being win8 unit, it needs to work.

Anyone doing ARC with win8 ?? Any problems ??


Tom


----------



## scheong

^^Tom,


I updated my 50v-3D to V3.10 firmware several weeks ago using a Windows 8 laptop without any problems. Make sure you have the correct driver for the Keyspan USB-serial adapter and you should be good to go.


I haven't re-run ARC though...


Stanley


----------



## binkman

I unintentionally started a new thread with a post intended for the ARC group, so I am cross posting here.


We rearranged our room so I re-ran ARC last week. It looks to me like I have a bad tweeter or possibly cross-over in one of the fronts. After first seeing it, I swapped positions of the L and R speakers and the same curves followed the speakers. Do the ARC plots below confirm this? I've emailed Paradigm for their input and to inquire about getting a new tweeter twice over the past 2 weeks with no response. Is this typical of them?


Paradigm Monitor 11 v.2, CC-370, ADP-370, PW-2200 / Anthem AVM-50v & Statement A5


----------



## spiderv6




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *binkman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24194625
> 
> 
> I've emailed Paradigm for their input and to inquire about getting a new tweeter twice over the past 2 weeks with no response. Is this typical of them?



No - normally they are pretty fast. Call them - my experience is you can be speaking to a tech within 60 seconds.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scheong*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24194605
> 
> 
> ^^Tom,
> 
> 
> I updated my 50v-3D to V3.10 firmware several weeks ago using a Windows 8 laptop without any problems. Make sure you have the correct driver for the Keyspan USB-serial adapter and you should be good to go.
> 
> 
> I haven't re-run ARC though...
> 
> 
> Stanley



Stanley,

Thanks for the response. It seems every time Windows puts out a new OS there are problems with Anthem firmware working with it. Looks like they may have been more proactive this time, or it didn't need to be changed. Thanks for the heads-up on the Keyspan. I'll go to Tripplite and update the driver if I switch to win8.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *binkman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24194625
> 
> 
> I unintentionally started a new thread with a post intended for the ARC group, so I am cross posting here.
> 
> 
> We rearranged our room so I re-ran ARC last week. It looks to me like I have a bad tweeter or possibly cross-over in one of the fronts. After first seeing it, I swapped positions of the L and R speakers and the same curves followed the speakers. Do the ARC plots below confirm this? I've emailed Paradigm for their input and to inquire about getting a new tweeter twice over the past 2 weeks with no response. Is this typical of them?
> 
> 
> Paradigm Monitor 11 v.2, CC-370, ADP-370, PW-2200 / Anthem AVM-50v & Statement A5



Yeah that looks like a classic case of a failed driver in the LF speaker. First double check the wiring -- compare LF vs RF. The speaker may have separate input jacks for the tweeter. Typically you run one pair of speaker cable to one input pair on a speaker, and then buss bar connectors tie the two input pairs together. If the buss bar connectors have come loose that would explain loss of the tweeter.


As for response from Paradigm, check your email Spam filters to make sure their response has not gone into your junk folder. Also, give them a call.

--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *binkman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24194625
> 
> 
> Do the ARC plots below confirm this? I've emailed Paradigm for their input and to inquire about getting a new tweeter twice over the past 2 weeks with no response. Is this typical of them?



Coming out of a holiday season affected by the worst ice storm and longest power, phone, and internet outages seen in this area might have something to do with it. Sorry for the delay and in case anything unexpected went on with cyber-communication in either direction, please try again or call.


When it comes to biampable speakers that are not running in biamp mode, start by checking the jumpers on the back of the speaker between the two sets of binding posts. If there's a bad connection, half the speaker can't get a signal. Just needs tightening in this case.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24194316
> 
> 
> I need to get a new laptop soon. Is there any problems running ARC or doing firmware upgrades using Windows 8 ??
> 
> There are still a lot of units with win7 for sale so I shouldn't have any trouble finding either win7 or win8 in my price range, but since I will be using it for ARC if end up being win8 unit, it needs to work.
> 
> Anyone doing ARC with win8 ?? Any problems ??
> 
> 
> Tom



Some have reported and I have experienced it myself, the level that ARC shows is lower than 75db when using 8/8.1. The plots look the same as a Win XP run and ARC still does its thing. No difference in volume settings when you use the system after running ARC. The best I can figure out is that there is something affecting the plotting function when running under Win 8.


----------



## binkman

Nick and Bob - regarding my Monitor 11


Thanks for the input. I'm not on the this board frequently, but I have always been impressed by the responses from the community and Anthem.


My speakers are bi-wired (not bi-amped) and when I swapped L vs R that was done in part to confirm no wire breaks anywhere. After posting yesterday, I physically moved the tweeters from one speaker to the other and it confirms it is the tweeter.


Nick - I appreciated the subzero and ice. We also had that here. We didn't lose power, so that meant time spent at home inside went to things like updating ARC measurements. I'm sure I was one of many who took the opportunity to reach out to your team while they were stuck at home. Good luck continuing to dig out of that.


I will call tomorrow to order a new tweeter.


Cheers


----------



## Kaja Kouser

I have been using the D2v for a year now and 3 months ago I upgraded to the 3D board. On Sunday suddenly there was no audio output from the D2v, however the video was fine. After I did a power cycle, I found that it had lost all settings including ARC. I tried restoring from backup, but the audio sounds different now and there is a complete loss of the lows from all speakers, however there is out put in the subs but, again it sounds different. Also there is also a lot of delay in video switching from input to input and at times the video turns pink . I tried resetting to factory default and did ARC, the other settings again, but no change in performance. Have any of you had a similar experience ? Any help will be much appreciated. I tried the local Anthem tech in India and he seems to be puzzled.


My System


Anthem D2v

Parasound A31, Anthem A5

Oppo 105

PS3

Dune HD

TataSky HD+

Triangle Concerto

ATC Center and Surround Speakers

Rel 528 X 2 Subs

Sony 50ES Projector and Elite Screen

Harmony Smart Control

Van Den Hul Cables


----------



## dreamhomecinema

Iam also from india have 2 nosof ANTHEM D2V processors and another DENON AVP A1HD 3D PROCESSOR i accept the anthem ARC is very good but better then adessy 32 but i seen major firmwar problems on ANTHEM I have d2v its running 3.09 firmware no problems in that processor and another anthem d2v 3d wich is new firmware 3.10 having DTSHD master audio 5.1 beatstream having problem which is giving back speakers sound also when i giving LPCM Signal producing sound as 5.1 to 5.1 and another issue in this firmware is that when we going to CINEMA mode sound coming very harsh and overloading on spakers canhave any ugestion lease thank u ATC 110 PRO SPEAKERS 7 CHANNELS paradighm SUB 2 +PARADIGHM sub25 marantz 9004 bluray player +oppo 105 + pioner elite 09 jvc x95 projector


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreamhomecinema*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240_40#post_24207692
> 
> 
> Iam also from india have 2 nosof ANTHEM D2V processors and another DENON AVP A1HD 3D PROCESSOR i accept the anthem ARC is very good but better then adessy 32 but i seen major firmwar problems on ANTHEM I have d2v its running 3.09 firmware no problems in that processor and another anthem d2v 3d wich is new firmware 3.10 having DTSHD master audio 5.1 beatstream having problem which is giving back speakers sound also when i giving LPCM Signal producing sound as 5.1 to 5.1 and another issue in this firmware is that when we going to CINEMA mode sound coming very harsh and overloading on spakers canhave any ugestion lease thank u ATC 110 PRO SPEAKERS 7 CHANNELS paradighm SUB 2 +PARADIGHM sub25 marantz 9004 bluray player +oppo 105 + pioner elite 09 jvc x95 projector


 

There is a known issue with 3.10 and 5.1 loss off surrounds and "supposedly" Anthem is working on this.    You could roll back to 3.09H or J and the surround issue is not there

 

Bob/Nick - any update on this issue fix?


----------



## dreamhomecinema

thank u very muchTEXAS STEVE forreply and information i vry upset from this issue u said 3.09H or j is good for this issue can u please give me link of 3.09H OR j firmware it is not available on anthem present site thank again


----------



## dreamhomecinema




----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreamhomecinema*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24209710
> 
> 
> thank u very muchTEXAS STEVE forreply and information i vry upset from this issue u said 3.09H or j is good for this issue can u please give me link of 3.09H OR j firmware it is not available on anthem present site thank again



Send me your email address in a PM and I will provide you a link to 3.09 H


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreamhomecinema*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24209795


nice looking setup!!!


----------



## dreamhomecinema

thanks my email [email protected]


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreamhomecinema*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42240#post_24209908
> 
> 
> thanks my email [email protected]



Confirm you were able to download 3.09H


----------



## dreamhomecinema

tanks again mr thestewmen for copration i recived file of 3.09h and download in Anthem d2v 3d but when down loadis compleate and showing formware download is sucsusfull but processor incoming signal is not responding in formate showing incoming signal nill ofter that i tri in my another d2v version processor as i told i have 2 pices of d2v and d2v3d i upload 3.09h version in d2v that sround back chanell is active which not active in 3.09 version i back to 3.09 version they not playing back chanel i try in in firware in d2v3d but total sound not coming and incoming signal not responding i dont know what is this anthem processors which is very famuos i come to the point only arc is good in anthem without arc anthem is 0000


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreamhomecinema*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24213869
> 
> 
> tanks again mr thestewmen for copration i recived file of 3.09h and download in Anthem d2v 3d but when down loadis compleate and showing formware download is sucsusfull but processor incoming signal is not responding in formate showing incoming signal nill ofter that i tri in my another d2v version processor as i told i have 2 pices of d2v and d2v3d i upload 3.09h version in d2v that sround back chanell is active which not active in 3.09 version i back to 3.09 version they not playing back chanel i try in in firware in d2v3d but total sound not coming and incoming signal not responding i dont know what is this anthem processors which is very famuos i come to the point only arc is good in anthem without arc anthem is 0000



I have a little bit of a problem understanding what you are saying since English must not be your first or native language.

What I think you are saying. After you get a successful upload of 3.09h there still are no rear channels. Correct ?

The when you uploaded to the second working D2v that one now has no rear channels. Correct ?

And then you comment that the D2v without ARC is worth Zero ? Correct ?


----------



## dreamhomecinema

iam sorry if u feel my sentence abou' 'anthem nothing without arc' acually iam very upset with this issue we are spending lot of mony for enjoy with music . but not satisfy with this issue its still problem company also not taking acction


----------



## thestewman

The issue with 3.10 is being worked on and will be resolved,


The D2v 3D and D2v works and performs with 3.09h as ggod as ever. I have no complaints. The 3.10 update brings some small changes not easily identified hen using The D2v or D2v 3D.


You need to check further why your units are not working.

Use a process of elimination to find the reason

What is the source you are using to cause the problem ?

Start with the Setup

Are you using 5.1 or 7.1 ?


As the source is playing scroll through the display by pressing the enter button and see what mode the unit is in


Any Anthem users want to join please jump in.


----------



## syed hidayat

Hi thestewman.


I would like to explain the above problem faced my father in law.

We are having 2- anthem d2v processor, one without 3d and other one with 3d installed.


Let me explain the issue with the first processor with 3d installed:

We have recently purchased anthem d2v3d processor which came with the 3.10 firmware.

Whenever we select dts-hd master audio 5.1 format, the rear speakers are becoming active as well. Means it is delivering 7.1 output. Which should not happen.

To overcome this issue We have been advised to downgrade it to firmware 3.09 h but when we did the downgrade the processor is not sensing the input signal atall this time and no audio output.

So please advice how to resolve this issue. It seems there is some problem with 3.10 firmware.


Regarding the second processor:

This one is only d2v without 3d kit installed with 3.09 firmware,when we use this in 5.1 dts hd- master audio it works perfect with only surround left and right active with no signal in rear speakers.

This is perfect.

When we tried to upgrade this processor to 3.09h firmware we face the same problem as above.

The rear speakers are becomming active along with suurounds when we are playing 5.1 dts-hd master audio.

These kind if errors are not expected from a reputed brand like anthem as this dissappoints a lot after spending a fortune.


Is there any solution or can u guide us rectifying the problem.


Looking forward for ur valuable advice.

Regards

Syed


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *syed hidayat*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24214842
> 
> 
> Hi thestewman.
> 
> 
> I would like to explain the above problem faced my father in law.
> 
> We are having 2- anthem d2v processor, one without 3d and other one with 3d installed.
> 
> 
> Let me explain the issue with the first processor with 3d installed:
> 
> We have recently purchased anthem d2v3d processor which came with the 3.10 firmware.
> 
> Whenever we select dts-hd master audio 5.1 format, the rear speakers are becoming active as well. Means it is delivering 7.1 output. Which should not happen.
> 
> To overcome this issue We have been advised to downgrade it to firmware 3.09 h but when we did the downgrade the processor is not sensing the input signal atall this time and no audio output.
> 
> So please advice how to resolve this issue. It seems there is some problem with 3.10 firmware.
> 
> 
> Regarding the second processor:
> 
> This one is only d2v without 3d kit installed with 3.09 firmware,when we use this in 5.1 dts hd- master audio it works perfect with only surround left and right active with no signal in rear speakers.
> 
> This is perfect.
> 
> When we tried to upgrade this processor to 3.09h firmware we face the same problem as above.
> 
> The rear speakers are becomming active along with suurounds when we are playing 5.1 dts-hd master audio.
> 
> These kind if errors are not expected from a reputed brand like anthem as this dissappoints a lot after spending a fortune.
> 
> 
> Is there any solution or can u guide us rectifying the problem.
> 
> 
> Looking forward for ur valuable advice.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Syed



What sound processing mode are you using? Are you using something that raises the 5.1 to 7.1? try using "none".


----------



## syed hidayat

We are only using 5.1

We are not raising from 5.1 to 7.1


All setting are at NONE.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *syed hidayat*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24214908
> 
> 
> We are only using 5.1
> 
> We are not raising from 5.1 to 7.1
> 
> 
> All setting are at NONE.



Do you have a 7. 1 system surrounds and rears ? Or a 5. 1 system - no rears ?


Go into the setup and check the Speaker configuration.

That would be lines 3C and 3D Double Check them

Back out of set up and scroll through the display by pressing enter and tell us what mode the unit is in ?


----------



## dreamhomecinema

i have 7.1 system sarounds and rears. using 2 sub woofers, using dts none mode when iam sending BLURAY PLAYERS signal LPCM mode it is working perfectly 5.1 only problem when we using DTS MASTER AUDIO 5.1 bitsream signal it will coming from back channel also, iam using all modes NON, DTS MASTER l if i use THX CINEMA MODE IT WILL COMING PERFECTLY 5.1 PLEASE GIVE ANY SUGESTION IF have i did not understand in speakers confgration any 3C or3D is there only there are front , center ,saround , saround back is there


----------



## Kensmith48

Try using the PLxx mode. Where's Bob when you need him?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreamhomecinema*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24215529
> 
> 
> i have 7.1 system sarounds and rears. using 2 sub woofers, using dts none mode when iam sending BLURAY PLAYERS signal LPCM mode it is working perfectly 5.1 only problem when we using DTS MASTER AUDIO 5.1 bitsream signal it will coming from back channel also, iam using all modes NON, DTS MASTER l if i use THX CINEMA MODE IT WILL COMING PERFECTLY 5.1 PLEASE GIVE ANY SUGESTION IF have i did not understand in speakers confgration any 3C or3D is there only there are front , center ,saround , saround back is there



Please state the player or device you are using and the music source.

is it a music file or disc > Is it a Blu ray movie and what kind of file or disc.

Are you sending bitstream to the D2v or decoding it in the player ?


What do you mean NON ? There is no mode I can think of or setting NON.


----------



## yacht422

walt here with an issue re:ARC

yesterday re-arced system, no problems(new subversive subs)

today, tried to remeasure after moving speakers, the computer says cannot measure, cannot detect the anthem D2.

What happened? No changes from yesterday - - - absolutely everything the same.

?


----------



## dreamhomecinema

Thank u for continue copration iam using 3 bluray players OPPO 105, PIONEER ELITE 09, AND MARANTZ 9004 and USING with all players using only bluray moives DTS MA 5.1 when i face this problem with DTSMA 5.1, then i check both ways may some defrence is giving result to me, i sent dtsma 5.1signal in LPCM mode by oppo 105 plyaer to d2v3d same result as pcm 5.1coming no back is activted it is OK but , if we sending same meterial DTSMA in bitstream to the d2v3 it will making sround back chanel ACTIVE this a fault and also i try in THX cenema MODE IT WILL BE PERFECTLY ALL Right not activativating back chanels, and i try the same values in d2v there are not problem DTSMA 5.1 coming perfectly as 5.1 in same signal like lpcm or bitsream back chanel are not activating that means 3.09 firmware is perfecly good. When i try this same firmware in d2v3d process d2v3d is not responding incoming signal through 8 hdmi source ? NON means i say playing modes like thz cinema mode, dts es mode , dolbydigital ex mode all are iam using NONE


----------



## AVfile

It is not a fault. Anthem made this change in one of the firmware updates, as per DTS certification rules. Other manufacturers do not follow the rules as strictly as Anthem.


----------



## Thxtheater

I have a perplexing issue that I need help in debugging. I have a Homeworx HW-150PVR ATSC tuner box. It has several outputs: HDMI, digital coax, F connector, analog.


I have a specific issue where I do not get any sound via digital coax from the Homeworx box to the Anthem AVM50v. Stereo signals don't work, Dolby digital signals don't work nothing works via digital coax. I've checked the incoming signal on the Anthem and there is no signal at all. I'm getting analog video via the component connection just fine.


To further complicate things, HDMI works perfectly (I get both stereo/multichannel audio and video), F connector to another TV works perfectly.


I plugged the digital coax into an older Marantz receiver and bingo! I instantly got audio via digital coax and it decoded the signal properly (in this case a Dolby 5.1).


When I went back to my Anthem, I got a 5.1 signal for a fraction of a second and then nothing at all. Again, no indication of an incoming signal. I've queried several members on the Homeworx forum here ( http://www.avsforum.com/t/1482341/homeworx-hw-150pvr-support-and-discussion/870#post_24219301 ) and I've confirmed on the Homeworx main site that I'm running the latest firmware on the box and other users have confirmed no issues whatsoever in getting digital coax.


I ordered a second Homeworx HW-150PVR box and, unsurprisingly, I have exactly the same symptoms on both boxes.


Is it possible that:


1) The Homeworx is somehow sending something odd that the Anthem doesn't like. If so, how do you debug that?

2) The Anthem has a bug in decoding the signal.


All the audio signals are coming from over the air HDTV channels.


To confirm all the debugging, I've also gone into the audio settings of the Homeworx box and tried:

1) PCM

2) RAW (which I assume is bitstream)

3) RAW HDMI


None of these settings makes a difference with the Anthem.


Anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## Frohlich

Has Anthem made any statements about a future upgrade option to HDMI 2.0 for the D2V?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreamhomecinema*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24218462
> 
> 
> Thank u for continue copration iam using 3 bluray players OPPO 105, PIONEER ELITE 09, AND MARANTZ 9004 and USING with all players using only bluray moives DTS MA 5.1 when i face this problem with DTSMA 5.1, then i check both ways may some defrence is giving result to me, i sent dtsma 5.1signal in LPCM mode by oppo 105 plyaer to d2v3d same result as pcm 5.1coming no back is activted it is OK but , if we sending same meterial DTSMA in bitstream to the d2v3 it will making sround back chanel ACTIVE this a fault and also i try in THX cenema MODE IT WILL BE PERFECTLY ALL Right not activativating back chanels, and i try the same values in d2v there are not problem DTSMA 5.1 coming perfectly as 5.1 in same signal like lpcm or bitsream back chanel are not activating that means 3.09 firmware is perfecly good. When i try this same firmware in d2v3d process d2v3d is not responding incoming signal through 8 hdmi source ? NON means i say playing modes like thz cinema mode, dts es mode , dolbydigital ex mode all are iam using NONE





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24219664
> 
> 
> It is not a fault. Anthem made this change in one of the firmware updates, as per DTS certification rules. Other manufacturers do not follow the rules as strictly as Anthem.




This is not easy to follow as many companies are not following the DTS-HD Master codec correctly

The problem is with the method different manufacturers implement the DTS-HD Master codec and that different manufacturers are not following the codec and are using different schemes. I checked multiple forums for posts by knowledgeable posters and some manufacturers and saw different answers.

A BD player may decode one way yet if you bitstream to a processor the processor may decode it a different way.

One manufacturer will take a 7.1 signal and process it to 5.1 and the user unknowingly gets the core audio signal.

Another will take a 5.1 signal and using the correct DTS -HD master codec give the user DTS -HD Master in 7.1 by matrixing the surround signal. I hope I have the correct.


I have my surround modes all set to PLIIx Movie ( See Chapter 3.7 , Figure 7F of the D2v manual)


What I would hope for is for [email protected] to state exactly how Anthem is decoding DTS-HD Master if he knows

And are we getting thew core audio or the DTS-HD Master audio in all cases


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Frohlich*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24220365
> 
> 
> Has Anthem made any statements about a future upgrade option to HDMI 2.0 for the D2V?



Last I heard they were not interested and 4K was not important to them.

Hopefully that is changing and they will be motivated to have HDMI 2.0 and allow 4k over HDMI


----------



## Frohlich




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24220570
> 
> 
> Last I heard they were not interested and 4K was not important to them.
> 
> Hopefully that is changing and they will be motivated to have HDMI 2.0 and allow 4k over HDMI




Thank you. I was considering buying a D2V but I want to be as future ready as possible. When you start spending this kind of money (at least for my budget), I would want to future proof. I know they have offered upgrades in the past (3d) and thought they might position this as a modular piece. Safer for me to probably wait until the Spring when we typically get all the new AV announcement. The replacement for the Marantz 8801 (assuming there is one), might be more up my alley.


----------



## dreamhomecinema

I have Denon avp A1 HD 3D Processor and using from 3 years which is runing perfecly without any problem DTSHD 5.1 and 7.1 audio bitsream and lpcm signal , and giving sound as same as signal no having any problem but the Denon's Audesyy XT 32 not beter then ARC denon having 9.3 chanell output mode which is perfectly giving by denon without problem, in ANTHEM arc making all ferquncy to flat and sound is better then denon but they are not taking intrest in rectfy fault in DTSHA MA SIGNAL which running purfect in d2v with 3.09 firmware. And runing another d2v3d faulty by 3.10 firmware and signal giving with THX mode perfecly in both processors, this old fault is not corect by them how can we expect the new 4 K signal they can give us perfect in future i hope the anthem team make first this problem 4k is not important then DTSMA issue we are puchasing anthem for sound


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Frohlich*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24220709
> 
> 
> Thank you. I was considering buying a D2V but I want to be as future ready as possible. When you start spending this kind of money (at least for my budget), I would want to future proof. I know they have offered upgrades in the past (3d) and thought they might position this as a modular piece. Safer for me to probably wait until the Spring when we typically get all the new AV announcement. The replacement for the Marantz 8801 (assuming there is one), might be more up my alley.



This is one reason why I really wish Anthem had an AVM40V (or something) basically an option without a built-in video processor. I know it's "in" to have everything built in but there are better, more flexible video processors out there (Lumagen) and the total cost of an AVM40 and a Radiance is probably still less than the cost of a 50V. I ended up with a Radiance XE and my whole system works better than when had my 50V doing all the switching and the Lumagen is a better processor as well. And on top of that, I've got no worries about 4K now because I can just swap out the Lumagen and my 50V will keep working just like it is now.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreamhomecinema*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24220990
> 
> 
> I have Denon avp A1 HD 3D Processor and using from 3 years which is runing perfecly without any problem DTSHD 5.1 and 7.1 audio bitsream and lpcm signal , and giving sound as same as signal no having any problem but the Denon's Audesyy XT 32 not beter then ARC denon having 9.3 chanell output mode which is perfectly giving by denon without problem, in ANTHEM arc making all ferquncy to flat and sound is better then denon but they are not taking intrest in rectfy fault in DTSHA MA SIGNAL which running purfect in d2v with 3.09 firmware. And runing another d2v3d faulty by 3.10 firmware and signal giving with THX mode perfecly in both processors, this old fault is not corect by them how can we expect the new 4 K signal they can give us perfect in future i hope the anthem team make first this problem 4k is not important then DTSMA issue we are puchasing anthem for sound



MAYBE and MAYBE NOT


How do you know what Denon is doing is correct and that you are not getting the DTS core audio ?

Search the forums diligently and you will find many companies are giving you the DTS core audio when decoding the DTS-HD Master to a different number of channels.

So you maybe listening to DTS core not DTS -HD Master.


Also check the firmware update Info starting at v3.10


CHANGE LIST


v3.10 production release and for with 3D hardware-equipped units


1. Rotating knob very quickly caused front panel display to freeze - fixed.



v3.09l beta


1. Fixed issue where Dolby Pro Logic IIx Music was not available for 2-channel 24/192 input.



v3.09j beta


1. Fixed serial control issue where Zone 2 had no audio if powering on to tuner.


2. Fixed AVM 50v issue where noise was present when playing 176.4 kHz source.



v3.09h release candidate:


1. When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source was playing, a surround upmix mode couldn't be selected - fixed.


2. False "No Input Signal" status info when receiving 2-channel input - fixed.


3. "Last Used" mode preset reverted to "None" under certain conditions - fixed.


4. Previous DTS changes now certified.



v3.09f beta:


1. Output channel count was displayed incorrectly when 6-ch analog input was selected - fixed.


2. Further DTS-required changes.


Known issue: When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source is selected, a surround upmix mode can't be selected.



v3.09c beta:


1. Fixed bug where AVM 50v sometimes powered on with low volume.


2. DTS-required changes for pending certification. Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements.



v3.09 release:


1. Fixed mode selection for DTS-MA 1.0.



v3.08c beta:


1. For DTS-MA 2.0, surround modes still weren't working properly in previous beta - fixed.



v3.08b beta:


1. The previous beta broke DTS-MA 6.1 downmix to 5.1, and DTS-MA 2.0 + PLIIx upmix to 5.1 - fixed.



v3.08a beta:


1. DTS Master Audio surround position mapping disabled. The reason for this choice is that newer 7.1-speaker installations are more likely to have the side surround speakers directly beside the central listening position instead of slightly behind it.


2. v3.04b contained some changes to the timing of subroutines. This may have affected the response to certain third party IR macros sent during power-on. The timing has been re-adjusted in an attempt to restore operation of these macros (note that without said macros at hand to test with, this is a shot in the dark).



v3.05 release candidate:


1. Same as v3.04b except version number.



v3.04b beta - fixes:


1. Depending on hardware, an active source was needed on HDMI1 to enable audio on HDMI2-4. Same with HDMI5 / HDMI6-8.


2. Depending on system, Custom Resolution Manager v1.1.0 resulted in double image.


3. Unusual audio input formats such as 6.1 (Star Wars) allowed scrolling through non-applicable surround modes (Pro Logic IIx) - mode list now shows only "None" in such cases.


4. DTS mode preset was not being applied (surround mode had to be selected on the fly).


5. Further fix for item 3 below.



v3.03 beta


1. Multichannel Dolby TrueHD downmix to stereo level was low - fixed.


2. Certain CD tracks were muting mid-song - fixed.


3. Dolby Pro Logic IIx did not always result in sound from rear channels - fixed.


----------



## AVfile

Right it is 3.09c item 2 - DTS surround remapping, which is required to meet the requirements! It may sound crazy but it is simple as that. Anyway who cares if extra speakers are enabled. You should be using PLIIx or THX Ultra 2 Cinema anyway.


I don't understand why this is viewed as a problem. The average people would complain if they bought 7 speakers and only 5 were working. We should be more concerned that other products are not meeting the spec and may not even be processing HD extensions. Nick has already come here and explained it all. Apparently manufacturers are able to indicate "HD" status but only process the lossy core, and do so all this time without anyone noticing!


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24221299
> 
> 
> Right it is 3.09c item 2 - DTS surround remapping, which is required to meet the requirements! It may sound crazy but it is simple as that. Anyway who cares if extra speakers are enabled. You should be using PLIIx or THX Ultra 2 Cinema anyway.



Exactly as I stated before I am using. Everything will be in 7.1 and not the core audio. If you check then the Anthem receives a 192k signal you get the best audio from Blu ray



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24221299
> 
> 
> I don't understand why this is viewed as a problem. The average people would complain if they bought 7 speakers and only 5 were working. We should be more concerned that other products are not meeting the spec and may not even be processing HD extensions. Nick has already come here and explained it all. Apparently manufacturers are able to indicate "HD" status but only process the lossy core, and do so all this time without anyone noticing!



Yes, check the DTS web site and read their white paper and read other forums where people are complaining about receiving the core signal.


I play all my Blu rays from personally ripped copies and only the lossless HD audio signal is available so I know mine is working.


----------



## ccoshm

Imam trying to install my 50v in a new house. My new setup uses 7.1 speakers. However, in speaker configuration setup I have the rears correctly identified. However, in Level calibration my rears show na instead of a volumen level and in any case the menu just skips these speakers. Any idea on how to get the processor to "know" these speakers are there and need configuration.


----------



## Thxtheater

Do you have the rears set to dipole or monopole? If you have them as dipoles switch to monopole and report back. The units handle monopole and dipole just a bit differently. Monopoles are treated like regular speakers in all the sub menu settings dipoles aren't.


----------



## cougar75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24220570
> 
> 
> Last I heard they were not interested and 4K was not important to them.
> 
> Hopefully that is changing and they will be motivated to have HDMI 2.0 and allow 4k over HDMI






What about us AVM50v owners?


----------



## ccoshm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24230833
> 
> 
> Do you have the rears set to dipole or monopole? If you have them as dipoles switch to monopole and report back. The units handle monopole and dipole just a bit differently. Monopoles are treated like regular speakers in all the sub menu settings dipoles aren't.



Thanx for the reply.


I have tried both settings. In the level calibration menu they appear as na and the receiver just skips over them regardless of how I have them defined (dipole or monopoles).


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccoshm*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24232824
> 
> 
> Thanx for the reply.
> 
> 
> I have tried both settings. In the level calibration menu they appear as na and the receiver just skips over them regardless of how I have them defined (dipole or monopoles).



Look in your set up and make sure you have 7.1 selected.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24232474
> 
> 
> What about us AVM50v owners?



I am sure Anthem is treating all of us the same.


No 4k,

No h265.

No HDMI 2.0

Currently. The market will certainly slip their grasp if they do not move forward reasonably soon.


----------



## ccoshm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24233094
> 
> 
> Look in your set up and make sure you have 7.1 selected.



I thank you once again.


The problem is I can not find where to select 7.1. I have gone through the manual and online and I can not find where to select 7.1. Any guide will help.


----------



## thestewman

Try Section 3.3 lines C and D set to dipole 7.1 unless you might have monopole (where the speakers send the sound sideways not forward )


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24233105
> 
> 
> I am sure Anthem is treating all of us the same.
> 
> 
> No 4k,
> 
> No h265.
> 
> No HDMI 2.0
> 
> Currently. The market will certainly slip their grasp if they do not move forward reasonably soon.



Why would you need H.265 in an SSP/Video Processor? You only need that if you're going to have apps like Netflix/Amazon/Vudu built in.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24233632
> 
> 
> Try Section 3.3 lines C and D set to dipole 7.1 unless you might have monopole (where the speakers send the sound sideways not forward )



I think you've got that backwards. Dipoles send sound out the sides, monopole sends it out the front:
http://www.soundandvision.com/content/face-surround-speaker-configuration-wars-page-2


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24233997
> 
> 
> Why would you need H.265 in an SSP/Video Processor? You only need that if you're going to have apps like Netflix/Amazon/Vudu built in.




If you are providing video processing would you not want to have the best decoding ?

Some video sources like the Sony 4K player may eventually send a H265 signal from a HDD which needs to be decoded




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24233997
> 
> 
> I think you've got that backwards. Dipoles send sound out the sides, monopole sends it out the front:
> http://www.soundandvision.com/content/face-surround-speaker-configuration-wars-page-2



I hate when I goof up. Happens when it is Saturday night and on vacation after a few rum punches.

You are correct I had that backwards. Monopole is direct.


----------



## ccoshm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24233997
> 
> 
> Why would you need H.265 in an SSP/Video Processor? You only need that if you're going to have apps like Netflix/Amazon/Vudu built in.
> 
> I think you've got that backwards. Dipoles send sound out the sides, monopole sends it out the front:
> http://www.soundandvision.com/content/face-surround-speaker-configuration-wars-page-2



Those are set correctly in the speaker configuration.


----------



## shah993

Is it possible to view different sources simultaneously on main and another one in zone 2 using HDMI 2?


----------



## leeshanok

Wondering if anyone had an issue with their D2 where the setup menu will not appear (black screen) on your tv dispay, but everything else shows up such as on screen display (volume, etc.), video picture adjustment menu, and all source input. If so, what did you do to get it back?


I was uploading new ARC settings, went into setup menu (came up on tv display) to save the user settings and selected yes to save it. I think I froze the screen by pressing one too many remote buttons, but the D2 display was ok and showed it saved the user settings. I exited out of the setup menu via the D2 dispay, but the tv display was still in the user setting view and stayed there (froze up). So, I turned off the D2, waited a few minutes and turned it back on hoping it will fix the problem, but now when I go into setup menu, I get nothing ( black screen), but everything else shows up on the tv display and all functions work, except the setup menu on screen. So now, I have to use the D2 diplay to make any setup changes.


Does anyone know how I can get the setup menu to display on my TV? If I reset to factory settings, then reload my user settings, do I have to re-input any setttings that perhaps are not saved in the user settings? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.


----------



## dmusoke


Anthem lists the latest firmware version to be 3.09. Does this include all beta changes to 3.09L? If not, where odes it stop?

 

I had v3.10 and it had weird issues with my urround speakers in my 5.1 system so I reverted to the official 3.09 from their website.

 

Thanks,

David


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccoshm*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24233240
> 
> 
> I thank you once again.
> 
> 
> The problem is I can not find where to select 7.1. I have gone through the manual and online and I can not find where to select 7.1. Any guide will help.



I don't know this for sure, but it could be possible that if you ran ARC in your previous setup, and you chose a 5.1 configuration for ARC, it may be overriding the speakers you are trying to choose in the main menu.

Try running ARC using your new speaker configuration. To do that you will only need to set the 'test level' (which uses the LF speaker) and you sub to 75db. ARC will take care of the rest.

Just a thought.


Tom


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24234203
> 
> 
> If you are providing video processing would you not want to have the best decoding ?
> 
> Some video sources like the Sony 4K player may eventually send a H265 signal from a HDD which needs to be decoded



You can't "bitstream" video HDMI does not support that, all video is decoded in the player and sent as raw video over HDMI.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccoshm*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24233240
> 
> 
> I thank you once again.
> 
> 
> The problem is I can not find where to select 7.1. I have gone through the manual and online and I can not find where to select 7.1. Any guide will help.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24238003
> 
> 
> I don't know this for sure, but it could be possible that if you ran ARC in your previous setup, and you chose a 5.1 configuration for ARC, it may be overriding the speakers you are trying to choose in the main menu.
> 
> Try running ARC using your new speaker configuration. To do that you will only need to set the 'test level' (which uses the LF speaker) and you sub to 75db. ARC will take care of the rest.
> 
> Just a thought.
> 
> 
> Tom



Great idea Tom


When running ARC you will be able to physically tell if ARC is selecting every speaker for the level test tones.


Let us know


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42280_40#post_24237866
> 
> 
> 
> Anthem lists the latest firmware version to be 3.09. Does this include all beta changes to 3.09L? If not, where odes it stop?
> 
> 
> 
> I had v3.10 and it had weird issues with my urround speakers in my 5.1 system so I reverted to the official 3.09 from their website.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David


yes it is a known problem that 3.10 in 5.1 surrounds don't work.  I have not heard any update coming from Anthem in over 6 months!!   3.09J (and I think H) work.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24234203
> 
> 
> If you are providing video processing would you not want to have the best decoding ?
> 
> Some video sources like the Sony 4K player may eventually send a H265 signal from a HDD which needs to be decoded





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24238014
> 
> 
> You can't "bitstream" video HDMI does not support that, all video is decoded in the player and sent as raw video over HDMI.


Did I say Bitstreaming video over HDMI ?

No. I said "Some video sources like the Sony 4K player may eventually send a H265 signal from a HDD which needs to be decoded" which is not entirely correct .

What I did mean was video sources would be fed H265 and VP9 video codec files . Those sources would stream AVRs, displays etc for decoding.

The user then would have a choice which device provided the best decoding


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24236285
> 
> 
> Is it possible to view different sources simultaneously on main and another one in zone 2 using HDMI 2?


No they are parallel ports so they have the same output. Very few devices at this point provide that independent HDMI output but that's now changing.


On the Anthem you can't configure them like a matrix switch.


----------



## shah993

Thanks,just wondering why they have 2 HDMI outs along with zone 2 and 3 would have been nice to have 2 separate output.Will need to come up with another plan!


----------



## ccoshm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24238110
> 
> 
> 
> Great idea Tom
> 
> 
> When running ARC you will be able to physically tell if ARC is selecting every speaker for the level test tones.
> 
> 
> Let us know



I will try this weekend and post back. Thank you all.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24238114
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42280_40#post_24237866
> 
> 
> 
> Anthem lists the latest firmware version to be 3.09. Does this include all beta changes to 3.09L? If not, where odes it stop?
> 
> 
> 
> I had v3.10 and it had weird issues with my urround speakers in my 5.1 system so I reverted to the official 3.09 from their website.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David
> 
> 
> 
> yes it is a known problem that 3.10 in 5.1 surrounds don't work.  I have not heard any update coming from Anthem in over 6 months!!   3.09J (and I think H) work.
Click to expand...

Thanks Steve ...I downloaded 3.09 form their site but not sure whether it includes all the changes in 3.09x betas.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24238139
> 
> 
> 
> Did I say Bitstreaming video over HDMI ?
> 
> No. I said "Some video sources like the Sony 4K player may eventually send a H265 signal from a HDD which needs to be decoded" which is not entirely correct .
> 
> What I did mean was video sources would be fed H265 and VP9 video codec files . Those sources would stream AVRs, displays etc for decoding.
> 
> The user then would have a choice which device provided the best decoding



But displays never do any decoding, HDMI does not support transmission of compressed (H.264/265/VP9/MPEG-2 etc) video. Video is always decoded in the player. The only time video is decoded in the display is when the display is the player (eg the Netflix app built into a smart TV). What you describe is what's called bitstreaming in the audio realm, ie sending the raw audio bitstream (DTS-HD MA, TrueHD etc) over HDMI to allow the SSP to decode it there, there is no such mechanism for video.


It may "eventually" happen, but it won't be with HDMI 2.0. That said it's not likely since that would prevent they player from overlaying pop up menus, OSD, etc (kind of like how audio bitstreaming prevents secondary audio from working).


----------



## ccoshm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24238003
> 
> 
> I don't know this for sure, but it could be possible that if you ran ARC in your previous setup, and you chose a 5.1 configuration for ARC, it may be overriding the speakers you are trying to choose in the main menu.
> 
> Try running ARC using your new speaker configuration. To do that you will only need to set the 'test level' (which uses the LF speaker) and you sub to 75db. ARC will take care of the rest.
> 
> Just a thought.
> 
> 
> Tom



I restored factory defaults and reprogrmmed the procesor. Sure enough, my rear levels were enabled once again. My take is that I had a 5.1 setup in my previous installation and this disabled the rear channels. I assume that this is one setup option that can only be done through ARC calibration. Thank you for your insight.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24239235
> 
> 
> Thanks Steve ...I downloaded 3.09 form their site but not sure whether it includes all the changes in 3.09x betas.


It does not. For example the DTS remapping "fix" is not in the official 3.09 Release code.


Anthem does not post beta code on their official download page, only the Tech Support password-protected page.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24238624
> 
> 
> Thanks,just wondering why they have 2 HDMI outs along with zone 2 and 3 would have been nice to have 2 separate output.Will need to come up with another plan!


You'll need to split your sources with an HDMI 2x4 or 4x4 etc matrix switch before the Anthem. That's what I do and it will solve your problem.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24242400
> 
> 
> It does not. For example the DTS remapping "fix" is not in the official 3.09 Release code.
> 
> 
> Anthem does not post beta code on their official download page, only the Tech Support password-protected page.



Right now the only firmware on the password protected page are the same ones that are on the official page. They removed all of the 3.09(x) betas from the site a while back.

The only place to get them is from owners here that have the downloads for the 3.09 betas and are willing to share.

Sorry, I do not have any of the beta files.


Tom


----------



## shah993

Thanks for the matrix suggestion.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42280_40#post_24242400
> 
> 
> 
> It does not. For example the DTS remapping "fix" is not in the official 3.09 Release code.
> 
> 
> Anthem does not post beta code on their official download page, only the Tech Support password-protected page.


correct, but your rear channels on 5.1 should be working now vs 3.10


----------



## dmusoke


Yes they do... Thanks Steve.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24245500
> 
> 
> 
> correct, but your rear channels on 5.1 should be working now vs 3.10



Rear channels work fine in the 50v3D with 3.10.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42320_40#post_24248915
> 
> 
> 
> Rear channels work fine in the 50v3D with 3.10.


Yes, it appears that D2Vs w/o 3D have a issue with no surrounds on 5.1 starting with 3.9J and up to the release of 3.10.


----------



## dmusoke


And just how much does a 3D board cost for D2v owners?


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42320_40#post_24249772
> 
> 
> 
> And just how much does a 3D board cost for D2v owners?


Sorry, I don't know not interested in 3d.  It is posted on here somewhere as well as if you have a serial number above X its free


----------



## agrsiv95

Anyone else get just video from their HDMI sources and have to reboot to get audio? Oppo 103, Ps3 or Directv it doesn't matter. I'm on 3.09 ( non 3d) and this is very annoying especially because it is random and is really great when we have guests.


I have everything controlled by a URC MSC-400 and a MRX-980 so everything turns on in the same order every time.


Which one of the betas is the most stable?


----------



## studlygoorite




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24249772
> 
> 
> And just how much does a 3D board cost for D2v owners?



I have the older D2v and it cost me 1,500.00 plus labor and tax from Anthem. Total was 1,750.00 I think.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300#post_24251283
> 
> 
> Anyone else get just video from their HDMI sources and have to reboot to get audio? Oppo 103, Ps3 or Directv it doesn't matter. I'm on 3.09 ( non 3d) and this is very annoying especially because it is random and is really great when we have guests.
> 
> 
> I have everything controlled by a URC MSC-400 and a MRX-980 so everything turns on in the same order every time.
> 
> 
> Which one of the betas is the most stable?



Sounds like you should try Dr. HDMI between the Anthem and your display or get a switcher with EDID between your sources and the Anthem. I was having source troubles too and that solution solved my problems. Especially if you have an older display it may be the display that's the culprit.


----------



## Frohlich




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Frohlich*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42270#post_24220365
> 
> 
> Has Anthem made any statements about a future upgrade option to HDMI 2.0 for the D2V?



Just answering my own question in case it helps anybody else out. From a post Nick made on the MRX thread it looks like no more Hardware updates (in my case I was interested in HDMI 2.0).



http://www.avsforum.com/t/1497598/anthem-mrx-receivers-310-510-710-owners-thread-tweaking-guide/750 (post 777)


"Also, will there be board upgrades for the MRX line like there is for the Pre/Pros when new HDMI or Displayport comes out or is that reserved for the higher end Pre/Pros that Anthem makes?"


Models that were designed for hardware upgrades are from AVM 20 to D2v, except the AVM 40, and *I'm pretty confident in saying that the 3D upgrade marks the end of hardware upgrades. The whole idea started when things were moving from 5.1 to 7.1 and all it took to upgrade was a $300 easy-to-install kit. Then HDMI came along...*


----------



## cougar75

I am still using FW 2.11. Should I be using the latest FW 3.09? My system is 5.1 and Anthem 50v.


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24252818
> 
> 
> Sounds like you should try Dr. HDMI between the Anthem and your display or get a switcher with EDID between your sources and the Anthem. I was having source troubles too and that solution solved my problems. Especially if you have an older display it may be the display that's the culprit.



I have a Runco Q750i LED projector and it is the only display connected to HDMI 1. I would consider another device as you mention if I were using an uncommon source or an old display with DVI but everything I run is well known. I know this has been said before, how come the $500 receivers out there never seem to have a problem?


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24255862
> 
> 
> I have a Runco Q750i LED projector and it is the only display connected to HDMI 1. I would consider another device as you mention if I were using an uncommon source or an old display with DVI but everything I run is well known. I know this has been said before, how come the $500 receivers out there never seem to have a problem?



Alas, if you were only running DVI. Things sure were simpler back then.


Unfortunately, there are lots of issues with HDMI handshaking sometimes. And all those $500 receivers sure do have their share of issues too.


To parallel things, my Oppo BDP-83 isn't an uncommon source and neither is my Scientific Atlanta Cable box or my AppleTV. Nevertheless, I did have problems and putting in an EDID emulator solved them all. What I discovered is that anything going to my Sony TV was problematic and anything going to my newer Panasonic plasma didn't have any issues.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cougar75*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24255735
> 
> 
> I am still using FW 2.11. Should I be using the latest FW 3.09? My system is 5.1 and Anthem 50v.



Definitely worth upgrading. You have the low power-on volume bug and 176k/16 noise problem and some DTS level issues just to mention the main ones. 3.09j is probably the ideal version for you.


----------



## cougar75

Is the Keyspan cable used to load new firmware from laptop to Anthem?


----------



## AVfile

Yes, if your laptop does not have an RS232 serial port.


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. Well just when I thought nothing else could go wrong with my D2v ( won't begin to go through the list), I've got another weirded one. I will try and explain what is happening as best I can. My connectivity is very basic with just the Oppo 95 and JVC X-35 projector connected to the Anthem. Now when ever I run ARC and as owners know the RS 232 connection is below the HDMI 1 or close and when I've connected the RS232 cable I can't help but just touch the HDMI cable that's connected to HDMI-1 in the D2v as I'm tight for space behind the unit, and after running ARC basically that HDMI input stops working. The Oppo no longer talks to the Anthem so I switched everything off and changed the input to HDMI-2 and things went back to normal. Now since then I've run ARC twice and everytime I've done this the HDMI input being used stops working. I've tried shutting everything down pulling out cables putting back in while everything is turned off but the HDMI input no longer work. Tonight I tried hooking up a set top box to watch the tennis and tried one of the HDMI inputs that has failed before and after turning things back on the HDMI input being number 4 for the Oppo stopped working??


So I turned everything off as per normal and changed the cable from HDMI4 to 5 and changed the setting in the Anthem to suit and it's back to normal. I just don't understand what is happening that's rendering the HDMI inputs unusable. I thought all 8 HDMI inputs where on the same board and if one fails then shouldn't all of the them fail? It has me really confused as to what is causing this problem and it's been very frustrating. Looks like I will have to take the unit for yet another repair, this will make it the third time. Any ideas?


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24257458
> 
> 
> Alas, if you were only running DVI. Things sure were simpler back then.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, there are lots of issues with HDMI handshaking sometimes. And all those $500 receivers sure do have their share of issues too.
> 
> 
> To parallel things, my Oppo BDP-83 isn't an uncommon source and neither is my Scientific Atlanta Cable box or my AppleTV. Nevertheless, I did have problems and putting in an EDID emulator solved them all. What I discovered is that anything going to my Sony TV was problematic and anything going to my newer Panasonic plasma didn't have any issues.




I really appreciate your input and will look into DR. HDMI. You have already "been there, done that" so you know my frustrations. I will say that when it's time to upgrade I will be considering other options.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24258178
> 
> 
> Hi guys. Well just when I thought nothing else could go wrong with my D2v ( won't begin to go through the list), I've got another weirded one. I will try and explain what is happening as best I can. My connectivity is very basic with just the Oppo 95 and JVC X-35 projector connected to the Anthem. Now when ever I run ARC and as owners know the RS 232 connection is below the HDMI 1 or close and when I've connected the RS232 cable I can't help but just touch the HDMI cable that's connected to HDMI-1 in the D2v as I'm tight for space behind the unit, and after running ARC basically that HDMI input stops working. The Oppo no longer talks to the Anthem so I switched everything off and changed the input to HDMI-2 and things went back to normal. Now since then I've run ARC twice and everytime I've done this the HDMI input being used stops working. I've tried shutting everything down pulling out cables putting back in while everything is turned off but the HDMI input no longer work. Tonight I tried hooking up a set top box to watch the tennis and tried one of the HDMI inputs that has failed before and after turning things back on the HDMI input being number 4 for the Oppo stopped working??
> 
> 
> So I turned everything off as per normal and changed the cable from HDMI4 to 5 and changed the setting in the Anthem to suit and it's back to normal. I just don't understand what is happening that's rendering the HDMI inputs unusable. I thought all 8 HDMI inputs where on the same board and if one fails then shouldn't all of the them fail? It has me really confused as to what is causing this problem and it's been very frustrating. Looks like I will have to take the unit for yet another repair, this will make it the third time. Any ideas?



Do you have a D2v 3D ?

The HDMI inputs are on separate boards. On the 3D model 1-4 are the only 3D HDMI inputs.

You did not say above when you tried to connect your set top box did it work even though the OPPO failed again ?

Maybe the OPPO is the problem.

Why is your set top box not permanently connected so you can stop fidgeting with the HDMI connectors. The connectors do not not take well to being plugged and unplugged.

Out of a curiosity Simon. Why are you running ARC so often ? At some point set it and enjoy the system for a while


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24258276
> 
> 
> I really appreciate your input and will look into DR. HDMI. You have already "been there, done that" so you know my frustrations. I will say that when it's time to upgrade I will be considering other options.



Even the word "frustrating" is an understatement. I was very quick to blame the Anthem and even sent it to Canada twice. Both times, anything with HDMI came back clean. My unit passed all specs. I have no problem swallowing my pride and saying I was wrong—and I was wrong—in assuming in was the Anthem. That's what led me to doing a lot of research and seeing people with Pioneers, Onkyos, Sony, and other receivers having exactly the same issue.


It wasn't until I really delved into researching HDMI issues (after, of course, changing cables 6 times from different manufacturers just to be sure) that I really started seeing issues with the EDID. I'm very thankful to some in-depth articles and finally just trying out a purchase.


Nailing the EDID issue has brought peace, harmony, and joy to my entire household. I know it's a pain in the you know what, but it worked and it's been a permanent fix.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24258495
> 
> 
> Do you have a D2v 3D ?
> 
> The HDMI inputs are on separate boards. On the 3D model 1-4 are the only 3D HDMI inputs.
> 
> You did not say above when you tried to connect your set top box did it work even though the OPPO failed again ?
> 
> Maybe the OPPO is the problem.
> 
> Why is your set top box not permanently connected so you can stop fidgeting with the HDMI connectors. The connectors do not not take well to being plugged and unplugged.
> 
> Out of a curiosity Simon. Why are you running ARC so often ? At some point set it and enjoy the system for a while



It's non 3D and I'm running 3.09j firmware. I've been tweaking the room with sub positions and recently obtained an SVS ASEQ EQ unit so have been refining that as well so that's the reason for the multiple ARC calibrations. The main use of the system is for BD's not watching tv and I decided not to hook up the set top box plus I don't have a spare spot for it in the equipment rack I'm using. I just thought watching the semi final on the big screen would be good and the unit could just sit on the carpet close to the equipment so there was plenty of cable length (HDMI) so no issue there. I don't think it's the Oppo as it's not on when I run ARC but as mentioned I do slightly touch the HDMI cable that's connected in the back on the D2v to connected the RS-232 and every time that's happened I lose that HDMI input. So that's why I'm up to HDMI-5 now after last night with connecting the set top box ( I tried HDMI 2 and the Oppo was in HDMI 4). I mean are the inputs that sensitive? I'm not knocking the cable or even pulling it, just reaching around and touching the cable as I'm putting in the RS-232 or an extra HDMI in the latest attempt. I check the HDMI after the connections are made and it's not half out or anything, it's fine. Has me baffled.


Oh and the set top didn't work using one of the HDMI inputs that has failed plus I confirmed that the arial input is faulty as well which a friend who installs Foxtel put in and will address it at some time, but if the HDMI was working I would have got sound but not picture.


----------



## jo5507

Is there any way to identify the ARC file currently loaded on the D2V? I have several ARC correction files but can't recall which one I last uploaded.


----------



## Frohlich

Its time for me to upgrade and I am looking at the Marantz AV8801 or the Anthem D2V. I only started to read this thread the last few weeks and all I seem to see or people with bugs or issues. Not trying to come off the wrong way but are there happy customers of D2V in this thread? I know the reviews are glowing but it seems like the day to day owners are frustrated. Am I jumping to conclusions and reading too much into it?


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Frohlich*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24261590
> 
> 
> Its time for me to upgrade and I am looking at the Marantz AV8801 or the Anthem D2V. I only started to read this thread the last few weeks and all I seem to see or people with bugs or issues. Not trying to come off the wrong way but are there happy customers of D2V in this thread? I know the reviews are glowing but it seems like the day to day owners are frustrated. Am I jumping to conclusions and reading too much into it?



This is one of the most active threads on AVS forums. That's a huge compliment. You also have people putting the units into some really unique situations. Moreover the flexibility and options you get with the Anthem units is much more granular than Marantz (as a guy who owned one I know). So yes you are reading way too much into it.







And one other thing is service. Anthem support is second to none. If I had the budget I'd upgrade to the D2v in a heartbeat.


----------



## cougar75




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Frohlich*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24261590
> 
> 
> Its time for me to upgrade and I am looking at the Marantz AV8801 or the Anthem D2V. I only started to read this thread the last few weeks and all I seem to see or people with bugs or issues. Not trying to come off the wrong way but are there happy customers of D2V in this thread? I know the reviews are glowing but it seems like the day to day owners are frustrated. Am I jumping to conclusions and reading too much into it?





Based on price alone, not a fair comparison. Of course if you have the dough laying around go for it. You would probably be more than happy with a 50v. JMHO.


----------



## bluemark81

Does the D2v have a bypass mode to allow me to connect an integrated amp to it? oops, sorry, I meant a preamp, not integrated.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24261810
> 
> 
> Does the D2v have a bypass mode to allow me to connect an integrated amp to it? oops, sorry, I meant a preamp, not integrated.



No

The theater bypass switch would be in the preamp you are wanting to use.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluemark81*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24261810
> 
> 
> Does the D2v have a bypass mode to allow me to connect an integrated amp to it? oops, sorry, I meant a preamp, not integrated.



Looks like you already have a great preamp, a SimAudio Moon. If that's going to be your main pre, do what Stewman said, and you don't need the D2v (unless you want to replace the Moon unit entirely). The AVM-50v will do just fine... It has balanced outs too.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Frohlich*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24261590
> 
> 
> Its time for me to upgrade and I am looking at the Marantz AV8801 or the Anthem D2V. I only started to read this thread the last few weeks and all I seem to see or people with bugs or issues. Not trying to come off the wrong way but are there happy customers of D2V in this thread? I know the reviews are glowing but it seems like the day to day owners are frustrated. Am I jumping to conclusions and reading too much into it?



That's because that's what people come to forums to talk about, problems. When stuff is working there's really nothing to talk about so forums, especially model-specific threads are always heavily "problem oriented" especially after those models become mature and the "cool stuff" is figured out. I mean if you look at this thread, there's a ton of discussion early on about features and setup, but now that that's largely been sorted out and documented there's not a lot of discussion about that since it's "all been said", so the thread inevitably distills down to what is unique, problems.


As for your question I love my AVM50V, it works great. Every once in a great while it will start up with the low volume bug, but it's rare so I've been too lazy to upgrade the firmware to resolve that. The only problems I've had with it are some HDMI handshake issues which I can't speak to personally but sound not unique to Anthem, and are "easily resolved by following the advice of Anthem (and Lumagen) and using quality, not super short (3+ feet at least, though I could have sworn I'd read 6+ feet at one point) cables.


The only complaint I have is that there's not a less expensive "audio only" option (like an AVM40V or something) without the video processing since video processing isn't Anthem's forte and I'd rather spend that money (and did) on a more versatile video processor like the Lumagen Radiance XE that I have, so the video processing in my AVM50V is a waste that I'd rather not have had to pay for.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24263312
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for your question I love my AVM50V, it works great. Every once in a great while it will start up with the low volume bug, but it's rare so I've been too lazy to upgrade the firmware to resolve that. The only problems I've had with it are some HDMI handshake issues which I can't speak to personally but sound not unique to Anthem, and are "easily resolved by following the advice of Anthem (and Lumagen) and using quality, not super short (3+ feet at least, though I could have sworn I'd read 6+ feet at one point) cables.
> 
> 
> The only complaint I have is that there's not a less expensive "audio only" option (like an AVM40V or something) without the video processing since video processing isn't Anthem's forte and I'd rather spend that money (and did) on a more versatile video processor like the Lumagen Radiance XE that I have, so the video processing in my AVM50V is a waste that I'd rather not have had to pay for.



I am seriously thinking of adding a Lumigen when they make 4K available


If I can ask how do you implement and connect the Lumigen into your system when the Anthem always processes the video ?


----------



## AVfile

I have the 50v3D fortunately, so I can leave it in video bypass mode and have the Radiance mini connected to its output. Lumagen's newer 2041 models support 4K (2160p) output.


I agree that an audio only version would be appealing, but [email protected] has explained here that there wouldn't be any cost savings due to economy of scale. For something like that you best look into the Bryston SP3.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jo5507*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24261167
> 
> 
> Is there any way to identify the ARC file currently loaded on the D2V? I have several ARC correction files but can't recall which one I last uploaded.



No, there isn't. If you are not sure which file you've Uploaded, the simplest solution is to Open the file you want and re-Upload it.


If you know the files all have different characteristics in what gets Uploaded into the Setup menu, then of course you could figure it out that way. But really, it is almost always simpler just to re-Upload whichever one you want. Then you can be sure. No need to re-Measure or even re-Calculate.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24258178
> 
> 
> Hi guys. Well just when I thought nothing else could go wrong with my D2v ( won't begin to go through the list), I've got another weirded one. I will try and explain what is happening as best I can. My connectivity is very basic with just the Oppo 95 and JVC X-35 projector connected to the Anthem. Now when ever I run ARC and as owners know the RS 232 connection is below the HDMI 1 or close and when I've connected the RS232 cable I can't help but just touch the HDMI cable that's connected to HDMI-1 in the D2v as I'm tight for space behind the unit, and after running ARC basically that HDMI input stops working. The Oppo no longer talks to the Anthem so I switched everything off and changed the input to HDMI-2 and things went back to normal. Now since then I've run ARC twice and everytime I've done this the HDMI input being used stops working. I've tried shutting everything down pulling out cables putting back in while everything is turned off but the HDMI input no longer work. Tonight I tried hooking up a set top box to watch the tennis and tried one of the HDMI inputs that has failed before and after turning things back on the HDMI input being number 4 for the Oppo stopped working??
> 
> 
> So I turned everything off as per normal and changed the cable from HDMI4 to 5 and changed the setting in the Anthem to suit and it's back to normal. I just don't understand what is happening that's rendering the HDMI inputs unusable. I thought all 8 HDMI inputs where on the same board and if one fails then shouldn't all of the them fail? It has me really confused as to what is causing this problem and it's been very frustrating. Looks like I will have to take the unit for yet another repair, this will make it the third time. Any ideas?



First off I suggest you leave the RS-232 cable screwed down tight into the back of the D2v all the time. Just coil it up neatly when it is not in use. Then you are not fumbling back there each time you want to connect it. Uncoil the free end whenever you need to use it.


The upper 4 HDMI Inputs (1-4) are on a daughter board that plugs into the big video board (top board in the unit, visible through the top vents). One possibility is that the daughter board is not properly seated in the main video board.


The usual reason for loss of signal on an HDMI socket is that the plug is not fully inserted straight into the socket. Particularly in tight space situations, the bend/weight of the cable can tug the plug away from straight. HDMI plugs are only friction fit and it just takes a small amount of shift to screw things up.


A problem that moves from socket to socket, where a socket can not be made to work again once it goes bad, suggests pin damage in the socket -- often caused by a damaged HDMI plug. As you move the plug from one socket to the next you damage the next socket, too. Very nasty. Even if the plug is not itself damaged, you can get the same sort of damage by forcing the plug into the socket at an angle instead of inserting it straight in.


To check that you need to pull out the D2v and examine the sockets and the HDMI plugs with a strong flashlight looking for bent pins.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24263521
> 
> 
> I am seriously thinking of adding a Lumigen when they make 4K available
> 
> 
> If I can ask how do you implement and connect the Lumigen into your system when the Anthem always processes the video ?



I run everything into the Lumagen, then from that I have (IIRC) HDMI 2 going to my projector, video only, and HDMI 1 going to my AVM50V 3D, audio only. All switching is done by the Lumagen and the Anthem never sees the video signal. Only downside of this is you lose the OSD for the Anthem. Though (and I haven't done this) you could run the Anthem HDMI out back into the Lumagen to access the Anthem setup menus if you wanted.


----------



## obie_fl

I take a different route. Most of my sources go through the D2v in passthru mode into a Darbee and then the Lumagen on to the projector. I'm actually surprised I don't have any major handshake issues. I believe the key for my system is using high quality cables.


----------



## jo5507




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24263630
> 
> 
> No, there isn't. If you are not sure which file you've Uploaded, the simplest solution is to Open the file you want and re-Upload it.
> 
> 
> If you know the files all have different characteristics in what gets Uploaded into the Setup menu, then of course you could figure it out that way. But really, it is almost always simpler just to re-Upload whichever one you want. Then you can be sure. No need to re-Measure or even re-Calculate.
> 
> --Bob


Thanks Bob. The problem is I don't know which one I'm listening to now. I really only want to correct the lower range, leaving the mid to high as per the natural characteristics of my speakers and recognizing the potential inaccuracies measuring the high end. I tried several upper limits in the 1.5 to 2.5 khz range as well as the default 5khz. I plan to experiment with some changes in the room but wanted to know which curve I was currently listening to. Not a big deal though. I plan to remeasure with a tighter mike placement for Music around the main listening position. When listening to 2 channel music, it's usually just me and I want to optimize for that seat. For Movies I will use the "normal" mike placement to include the multiple seating arrangement.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Make sure that you leave at least 24" between any two mic positions -- whether or not sequential. ARC needs that separation to distinguish between inherent speaker characteristics and what the room is doing to the sound (which changes by mic position). Also follow the other rules: E.g., #1 is at center, and subsequent positions alternate left and right of #1. That too is part of giving ARC the mic spacing it needs to do its job.

--Bob


----------



## jo5507

^OK thanks. I'll keep that separation but in a tighter cluster.


----------



## jo5507

Bob...I posted this question awhile ago but no responses. Can you comment please?

_I'm a bit confused by the cutoff vs crossover settings and the discussions about changing sub crossover points. The cutoff in the Targets window is not the same as the actual crossover ARC applies to the bass manager, as noted in the comments section of the Targets window. In my case the sub cutoff in Targets is 115Hz and the actual crossover loaded by ARC in Bass Manager is 75Hz. I leave the ARC settings alone for Movies but use a lower crossover setting in the Bass Manager Music menu, which I use for my 2 channel music. I have not changed the cutoff's, only the crossover settings in Bass Manager for music. I asked Tech Support about this and they agreed the value should be adjusted in the Bass manager menu, not Targets. It appears that some members here are changing the Targets cutoff values when they want to adjust their crossover points. Comments?_


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jo5507*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42350_50#post_24265651
> 
> 
> Bob...I posted this question awhile ago but no responses. Can you comment please?
> 
> _I'm a bit confused by the cutoff vs crossover settings and the discussions about changing sub crossover points. The cutoff in the Targets window is not the same as the actual crossover ARC applies to the bass manager, as noted in the comments section of the Targets window. In my case the sub cutoff in Targets is 115Hz and the actual crossover loaded by ARC in Bass Manager is 75Hz. I leave the ARC settings alone for Movies but use a lower crossover setting in the Bass Manager Music menu, which I use for my 2 channel music. I have not changed the cutoff's, only the crossover settings in Bass Manager for music. I asked Tech Support about this and they agreed the value should be adjusted in the Bass manager menu, not Targets. It appears that some members here are changing the Targets cutoff values when they want to adjust their crossover points. Comments?_



Not Bob but this is what I understood:

Cutoff: is the range where ARC is going to trying to fix things like for the Front speakers above 5khz ARC will not try to fix things

Crossover: the frequency at which ARC is going to merge your subwoofer and your main. Low pass for Sub and High Pass for Main and other speakers.

This is where 1/2 sub + 1/2 main == 1


----------



## jo5507




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24265814
> 
> 
> ^ are you sure there were no responses? I recall a big discussion about this recently but wondered where the original poster (you?) went.


Nope, didn't see any response, which surprised me a bit given the various discussions and interest in sub crossover.


----------



## jo5507




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24265819
> 
> 
> Not Bob but this is what I understood:
> 
> Cutoff: is the range where ARC is going to trying to fix things like for the Front speakers above 5khz ARC will not try to fix things
> 
> Crossover: the frequency at which ARC is going to merge your subwoofer and your main. Low pass for Sub and High Pass for Main and other speakers.
> 
> This is where 1/2 sub + 1/2 main == 1



I understand this part but was confused by conflicting info on where to make an adjustment to a sub crossover point....in the Bass Management menu or Targets.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jo5507*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42350_50#post_24266234
> 
> 
> I understand this part but was confused by conflicting info on where to make an adjustment to a sub crossover point....in the Bass Management menu or Targets.



The 2 are independent, but usually ARC figure how low can your main speaker go and how high can you subwoofer go, then set the crossover that agree with everybody.

If you have a very good subwoofer and big main, there is a larger overlap range where you can set the crossover.


The cutoff is the range where the dsp is going to work smoth out the response curves. So you could set for the subwoofer the cutoff to be 20khz but if the crossover is at 80hz after > 200hz there is nothing that can be fixed for the subwoofer but the dsp resource (cpu) will still be wasted.


Usually I tend to leave alone what ARC has computed because it take into the equation your room and all your speaker. So if one of the speaker is in a weak spot, I try to fix that one.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jo5507*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24266234
> 
> 
> I understand this part but was confused by conflicting info on where to make an adjustment to a sub crossover point....in the Bass Management menu or Targets.



If you touch anything in the menu the ARC solution is broken. Any tinkering, although not recommended, should be done in the ARC targets window prior to calculating.


I don't think anyone would argue that. The confusion was regarding SUB cutoff/crossover and whether LFE is *lost* if the crossover is set lower than 120 Hz. I believe the answer is NO but others have been led to believe otherwise.


----------



## jo5507




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24266464
> 
> 
> If you touch anything in the menu the ARC solution is broken. Any tinkering, although not recommended, should be done in the ARC targets window prior to calculating.
> 
> 
> I don't think anyone would argue that. The confusion was regarding SUB cutoff/crossover and whether LFE is *lost* if the crossover is set lower than 120 Hz. I believe the answer is NO but others have been led to believe otherwise.



That discussion has nothing to do with my question though. I asked Anthem tech support about this and they said to use the Bass Management menu to adjust the crossover. This made sense to me at the time since the cutoff settings in Targets are not crossover points. Why do you say that ARC will be broken if changes are made in the menu? Is that in the manual somewhere? The crossover point in my mind is or should be distinct from the correction curve. The correction curve should not change regardless of the crossover point selected so why would an adjustment break the ARC solution? I've used room correction for about 12 years but I'm new to ARC and I'm trying to sort out the conflicting info and some of the fundamentals.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jo5507*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24266234
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24265819
> 
> 
> Not Bob but this is what I understood:
> 
> Cutoff: is the range where ARC is going to trying to fix things like for the Front speakers above 5khz ARC will not try to fix things
> 
> Crossover: the frequency at which ARC is going to merge your subwoofer and your main. Low pass for Sub and High Pass for Main and other speakers.
> 
> This is where 1/2 sub + 1/2 main == 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I understand this part but was confused by conflicting info on where to make an adjustment to a sub crossover point....in the Bass Management menu or Targets.
Click to expand...


Do not alter the settings ARC Uploads into the Setup menu -- it will screw up the ARC solution. ARC uses the bass management capabilities of the Anthem (in particular its Crossover filters) as just one tool in forming the room correction solution. The Room Correction parameters handle the rest. If you alter the Crossover values in Setup after the ARC Upload, then the math already built into the Room Correction parameters (also Uploaded) will no longer be correct.


Think about it: Room Correction depends on speaker position. The Crossover moves bass from a speaker to the Sub (a different physical location with its own, unique coupling to the room). If you change the Crossover then you change whether speaker or sub is playing that adjusted portion of the bass. And thus how the Room Correction parameters need to be applied. (In reality it is even more complex as ARC blends the output of the speaker and Sub through the Crossover range. Shifting the Crossover shifts how that blending needs to be done.)


If you feel the need to change anything in ARC's automatic solution, you should do it in the ARC Windows application -- i.e., in the Targets window. Then re-Calculate and re-Upload so that any new Setup values that result are matched with new Room Correction parameters, also Uploaded.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24263792
> 
> 
> First off I suggest you leave the RS-232 cable screwed down tight into the back of the D2v all the time. Just coil it up neatly when it is not in use. Then you are not fumbling back there each time you want to connect it. Uncoil the free end whenever you need to use it.
> 
> 
> The upper 4 HDMI Inputs (1-4) are on a daughter board that plugs into the big video board (top board in the unit, visible through the top vents). One possibility is that the daughter board is not properly seated in the main video board.
> 
> 
> The usual reason for loss of signal on an HDMI socket is that the plug is not fully inserted straight into the socket. Particularly in tight space situations, the bend/weight of the cable can tug the plug away from straight. HDMI plugs are only friction fit and it just takes a small amount of shift to screw things up.
> 
> 
> A problem that moves from socket to socket, where a socket can not be made to work again once it goes bad, suggests pin damage in the socket -- often caused by a damaged HDMI plug. As you move the plug from one socket to the next you damage the next socket, too. Very nasty. Even if the plug is not itself damaged, you can get the same sort of damage by forcing the plug into the socket at an angle instead of inserting it straight in.
> 
> 
> To check that you need to pull out the D2v and examine the sockets and the HDMI plugs with a strong flashlight looking for bent pins.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob for your reply and welcome back. Yes I thought about the board not being seated correctly as that has been suggested as a solution to other members that have had similar issues with HDMI. Yes I know I should just leave the RS-232 connected but it bothered me leaving cable connected and hanging at the back but your right I should just leave it. HDMI is terrible for inserting into the Anthem inputs as it doesn't always go straight in regardless of wether you get it right but that's my experience.


Once again thank you for your suggestions and will disconnect everything and check out the daughter board. Happy New Year as well.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300_100#post_24263521
> 
> 
> I am seriously thinking of adding a Lumigen when they make 4K available
> 
> 
> If I can ask how do you implement and connect the Lumigen into your system when the Anthem always processes the video ?



I know you can --- Stew


BUT WHY WHY WHY - for Bragging Rights?


Video Processors are YESTERDAY's Tecjnology.


----------



## Frohlich




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42330#post_24263521
> 
> 
> I am seriously thinking of adding a Lumigen when they make 4K available
> 
> 
> If I can ask how do you implement and connect the Lumigen into your system when the Anthem always processes the video ?



If you are referring to a 4K upgrade to the Anthem products, I am under the impression from Nick's quote(below) that there is nothing planned.


http://www.avsforum.com/t/1497598/anthem-mrx-receivers-310-510-710-owners-thread-tweaking-guide/750 (post 777)


"Also, will there be board upgrades for the MRX line like there is for the Pre/Pros when new HDMI or Displayport comes out or is that reserved for the higher end Pre/Pros that Anthem makes?"


Models that were designed for hardware upgrades are from AVM 20 to D2v, except the AVM 40, and *I'm pretty confident in saying that the 3D upgrade marks the end of hardware upgrades. The whole idea started when things were moving from 5.1 to 7.1 and all it took to upgrade was a $300 easy-to-install kit. Then HDMI came along...*


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24267267
> 
> 
> I know you can --- Stew
> 
> 
> BUT WHY WHY WHY - for Bragging Rights?
> 
> 
> Video Processors are YESTERDAY's Tecjnology.



While I agree with the redundant aspect of VPs, (the D2v and my Projector have the same chip) there are still the questions of; Does the display have a CMS? Are all of the sources you watch the native resolution of you display? Is the "up-scaler" in the display/source top notch?


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drhankz*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24267267
> 
> 
> I know you can --- Stew
> 
> 
> BUT WHY WHY WHY - for Bragging Rights?
> 
> 
> Video Processors are YESTERDAY's Tecjnology.



Video processors are absolutely required today, and tomorrow since sources and displays have different characteristics and capabilities. Scaling, deinterlacing, sometimes enhancements, as well as calibration are all important. Though as agrsiv95 states, they are often redundant today with displays, SSPs and even source devices including video processing.


That said there's still a good case to be made for a Lumagen. The Lumagen has not only per input, but per input resolution memory/calibration, test pattern generation (for calibration of the display), but also Lumagen's own proprietary scaling solution, and (on mine) a 125 point CMS (newer ones have a 729 point CMS), it's also got EDID "customization" built in. The Anthem has rather basic video processing functionality. I guess look at it this way, Anthem is an Audio company, Lumagen is a video company, what Anthem and ARC do for audio, Lumagen and a Radiance do for video.


The short version is in my case, even though my display (Planar 8150), AVM50V 3D and Lumagen are all based on the same (or similar at least) Gennum video processors, the Lumagen was a distinct improvement over either of the other two. And now I don't need to worry about if the next display I get or the next Anthem I get has a good video processor in it, and I don't need to worry about Anthem adding 4K support.


----------



## agrsiv95

It would be nice if ARC was able to process solutions from the crossover you designate so the time alignment/phase with the sub/main channels can be kept. My best understanding is to set both the main and sub to the same crossover (80hz) and play a tone of the selected frequency to get them setup as dmusoke has in his sig.


How do you do it with ARC setting different crossover points in bass management if you leave the targets alone?


----------



## obie_fl

Two big points for the Lumagen in my system.

The 125 point 3D LUT CMS that Stanger pointed out.

And it is a great auto calibration device with something like Calman or ChromaPure.

In addition all VPs whether built into the display or prepro/receiver are pretty capable these days but the Lumagen is truly world class. Who doesn't want the best?


I can't believe an old fart like Drhankz doesn't need a VP for all his old laser discs and dare I say VHS tapes.


----------



## drhankz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42300_100#post_24267973
> 
> 
> Two big points for the Lumagen in my system.
> 
> The 125 point 3D LUT CMS that Stanger pointed out.
> 
> And it is a great auto calibration device with something like Calman or ChromaPure.
> 
> In addition all VPs whether built into the display or prepro/receiver are pretty capable these days but the Lumagen is truly world class. Who doesn't want the best?
> 
> 
> I can't believe an old fart like Drhankz doesn't need a VP for all his old laser discs and dare I say VHS tapes.



I may be OLD.


I am a OLD FART.


I own nothing other than 4K Content today.


YES IT DOES EXIST.


----------



## jo5507




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24266770
> 
> 
> Do not alter the settings ARC Uploads into the Setup menu -- it will screw up the ARC solution. ARC uses the bass management capabilities of the Anthem (in particular its Crossover filters) as just one tool in forming the room correction solution. The Room Correction parameters handle the rest. If you alter the Crossover values in Setup after the ARC Upload, then the math already built into the Room Correction parameters (also Uploaded) will no longer be correct.
> 
> 
> Think about it: Room Correction depends on speaker position. The Crossover moves bass from a speaker to the Sub (a different physical location with its own, unique coupling to the room). If you change the Crossover then you change whether speaker or sub is playing that adjusted portion of the bass. And thus how the Room Correction parameters need to be applied. (In reality it is even more complex as ARC blends the output of the speaker and Sub through the Crossover range. Shifting the Crossover shifts how that blending needs to be done.)
> 
> 
> If you feel the need to change anything in ARC's automatic solution, you should do it in the ARC Windows application -- i.e., in the Targets window. Then re-Calculate and re-Upload so that any new Setup values that result are matched with new Room Correction parameters, also Uploaded.
> 
> --Bob


OK thanks. I've spent some time tweaking today and am now clear on this issue. Your comments make sense but the Anthem tech threw me off. I think he may have misunderstood what I wanted to achieve.


----------



## dmusoke


Have you guys seen the ARC program from the MRX version of receivers? Its modern looking and has an easy to understand interface. I wish Anthem would port that interface over to the AVM/D2 version of pre-pros.


----------



## Max Technoe

Hi,


I have a (well I think it is ) HDMI handshaking issue between a Mac Mini running Plex and my D2V.


When I power on the D2V and set the input to the Mac Mini using my Harmony Remote, I often get a muted signal that comes in and out (i.e. mutes and unmated) periodically unless I reboot the Mac Mini. If I do this, it's fine until I sometimes switch video inputs or turn the D2V off and repeat the process.


I ran this same config for ages on a Marantz AV7005 with no issues, so I know is the D2v and the Mac Mini that aren't being friendly.


Does anyone here run HDMI out of a Mac Mini in this manner, and if so, how have they set the inputs on the D2V to accommodate this?


I'm running a mid 2012 Mac Mini with the latest version of Plex, a D2v and a Sony kdl60ex640 display panel.


----------



## cvinfig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Technoe*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24271016
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I have a (well I think it is ) HDMI handshaking issue between a Mac Mini running Plex and my D2V.
> 
> 
> When I power on the D2V and set the input to the Mac Mini using my Harmony Remote, I often get a muted signal that comes in and out (i.e. mutes and unmated) periodically unless I reboot the Mac Mini. If I do this, it's fine until I sometimes switch video inputs or turn the D2V off and repeat the process.
> 
> 
> I ran this same config for ages on a Marantz AV7005 with no issues, so I know is the D2v and the Mac Mini that aren't being friendly.
> 
> 
> Does anyone here run HDMI out of a Mac Mini in this manner, and if so, how have they set the inputs on the D2V to accommodate this?
> 
> 
> I'm running a mid 2012 Mac Mini with the latest version of Plex, a D2v and a Sony kdl60ex640 display panel.




Save yourself a lot of time and grief and just get a Dr HDMI from HDFury . I was having a ton of video and audio drop-outs until I got one of those suckers and placed it between my AVM50V and projector.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24270580
> 
> 
> Have you guys seen the ARC program from the MRX version of receivers? Its modern looking and has an easy to understand interface. I wish Anthem would port that interface over to the AVM/D2 version of pre-pros.


no, I haven't seen it. I'm sure they will include it when the D3 comes out.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Technoe*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24271016
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I have a (well I think it is ) HDMI handshaking issue between a Mac Mini running Plex and my D2V.
> 
> 
> When I power on the D2V and set the input to the Mac Mini using my Harmony Remote, I often get a muted signal that comes in and out (i.e. mutes and unmated) periodically unless I reboot the Mac Mini. If I do this, it's fine until I sometimes switch video inputs or turn the D2V off and repeat the process.
> 
> 
> I ran this same config for ages on a Marantz AV7005 with no issues, so I know is the D2v and the Mac Mini that aren't being friendly.
> 
> 
> Does anyone here run HDMI out of a Mac Mini in this manner, and if so, how have they set the inputs on the D2V to accommodate this?
> 
> 
> I'm running a mid 2012 Mac Mini with the latest version of Plex, a D2v and a Sony kdl60ex640 display panel.



CVINFIG is 100% correct. Get Dr. HDMI from HDFury and it will solve your issues. I was having both audio and video dropouts from various sources until I put in a solution to address the EDID issue. I'm using a Mac Mini as an iTunes media server and jt solved all the problems I was having. You can check out this article for more on solving HDMI EDID problems with Dr. HDMI .


Getting Dr. HDMI will also solve several issues that you may not be aware of and alleviate some of the issues when you turn your display on or off in the wrong order of the HDMI chain and prevent everything needing to re-handshake.


----------



## Max Technoe

So where in the signal path should this go? Between the display and the receiver or the source and the receiver?


I only have issues with the Mac Mini so I'd presume between the source (Mac Mini) and the Receiver input?


----------



## cvinfig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Technoe*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24273733
> 
> 
> So where in the signal path should this go? Between the display and the receiver or the source and the receiver?
> 
> 
> I only have issues with the Mac Mini so I'd presume between the source (Mac Mini) and the Receiver input?



I have mine between the Anthem and projector but I think the article Thxtheater linked to said you could put it between your source and receiver. It's probably the best investment I made in the HT since it has alleviated so much frustration.


----------



## Max Technoe

Cool. Bought one over the counter in the last half hour. Will see how it goes tonight.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24271869
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24270580
> 
> 
> Have you guys seen the ARC program from the MRX version of receivers? Its modern looking and has an easy to understand interface. I wish Anthem would port that interface over to the AVM/D2 version of pre-pros.
> 
> 
> 
> no, I haven't seen it. I'm sure they will include it when the D3 comes out.
Click to expand...

 

Try these links below from the MRX thread:

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1497598/anthem-mrx-receivers-310-510-710-owners-thread-tweaking-guide/330#post_24077338

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1497598/anthem-mrx-receivers-310-510-710-owners-thread-tweaking-guide/720#post_24235357


----------



## Max Technoe

I bought a Dr HDMI and tried to stick it inline with the Mac Mini and the D2V. This didn't give me any video signal whatsoever to the screen and the D2V wasn't picking up anything on the HDMI input.


I tried all of the settings and also learning the EDID on the Dr HDMI and no different result.


I've now put it in the signal path from the D2V to my display panel. Will this give me the outcome I'm seeking or does it need to be in path between the Mac Mini and the D2V?


----------



## cvinfig

^As I've said, mine is between the Anthem and projector and it solved the issues I was having with my Oppo BDP-103. I'm using setting 1...


----------



## Max Technoe

Cool. will keep an eye on it then


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24275765
> 
> 
> Try these links below from the MRX thread:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/1497598/anthem-mrx-receivers-310-510-710-owners-thread-tweaking-guide/330#post_24077338
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/1497598/anthem-mrx-receivers-310-510-710-owners-thread-tweaking-guide/720#post_24235357


WOW!! That is a nicer interface, and the charts are showing the frequency response below 20 Hz which is also good. I also see that the new interface is showing the speaker trims so that can see them without having to upload the results. I would be nice to get a software upgrade for this interface. I like it!!










Thanks for sharing the links.


----------



## dmusoke


Read up on the latest review of the MRX 710 7.1 channel receiver in http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/receivers/receivers-reviews/anthem-mrx-710-a-v-receiver/page-3-setup.html . Look at the ARC2 plots... and cry

 

Anthem says 50v/D2v owners will not get the upgrade as the UI's are too different though same algorithms. I posit it'll require to chamge the ethernet code section in ARC2 to the simpler RS232 code. All the DSP info is recorded during the ARC run process...


----------



## Nicoff

The D2v unit has been around for quite a while now. Does anyone know if Anthem has plans to release a newer version or a replacement (D3 perhaps)?

Which processors today would you consider as an upgrade to the D2v?


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42390#post_24300813
> 
> 
> The D2v unit has been around for quite a while now. Does anyone know if Anthem has plans to release a newer version or a replacement (D3 perhaps)?
> 
> Which processors today would you consider as an upgrade to the D2v?



In my opinion I don't consider any current processors an upgrade to the D2v. Once processors, displays and devices start adopting HDMI 2.0 and you get lots of 4k content then maybe. The simple fact is that with current sources, displays, content, and functionality, the D2v is still state of the art and you can easily add on functionality to it.


I'd conjecture that Anthem will be releasing a D3 once it makes sense to adopt 4k and HDMI 2.0 into the mainstream. You can see some of the hints of potential things in the MRX series.


----------



## Frank D




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42390#post_24300813
> 
> 
> The D2v unit has been around for quite a while now. Does anyone know if Anthem has plans to release a newer version or a replacement (D3 perhaps)?
> 
> Which processors today would you consider as an upgrade to the D2v?



There is no current upgrade/replacement planned for the D2 in the near term as confirmed by Anthem but I would think something will eventually come.


If you like the Anthen/ARC line than there is the current MRX 510 does have 7.1 pre outs as a possible interim measure until the D3 comes out. Not going to be the same as the much more expensive D2 but you get the upgraded ARC software user interface and internet connectivity for ARC.


----------



## RobertR

Pardon me if this has already been addressed. I find that when going from watching the movie on a BR to watching the extras, the audio often becomes very weak. Does anyone else have this problem? Anthem AVM50V, version 3.09.


----------



## CharlieU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42390#post_24327976
> 
> 
> Pardon me if this has already been addressed. I find that when going from watching the movie on a BR to watching the extras, the audio often becomes very weak. Does anyone else have this problem? Anthem AVM50V, version 3.09.



In my case, I mostly experience the opposite. The movie will be 5.1 and the extras are stereo, the volume shoots up. Sometimes way up. AVM50V ver 2.10 and it happened with 3.09 also.


----------



## Max Technoe

hmmm so I've put the Dr HDMI between the processor and my display, tried settings 1 and 2 and also tried learning the EDID.


I get picture on the screen however now I'm getting random drop outs of video (audio continues) and when I switch between inputs (e.g. to Bluray and back) I get the audio dropouts I was getting before.


In short, with the Dr HDMI, things seem worse than they were before.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Technoe*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42390#post_24330518
> 
> 
> hmmm so I've put the Dr HDMI between the processor and my display, tried settings 1 and 2 and also tried learning the EDID.
> 
> 
> I get picture on the screen however now I'm getting random drop outs of video (audio continues) and when I switch between inputs (e.g. to Bluray and back) I get the audio dropouts I was getting before.
> 
> 
> In short, with the Dr HDMI, things seem worse than they were before.


Put it between the source and the anthem. That worked for me. Is it only one specific source that is having the problem?


----------



## Supertaint

  
 
 


I think my graphs look kind of wonky. Any ideas?

Fronts are about 12" from front wall and 18" from side walls


----------



## porschetech

Still can't get the lower 4 hdmi's to work


----------



## Max Technoe

Have tried this.


All I get is a blue screen, no audio and no video.


It's only the Mac Mini that demonstrates this problem. I originally wanted to insert this in between the Mac and the processor but I've never gotten it to work.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Max Technoe*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42390#post_24336204
> 
> 
> Have tried this.
> 
> 
> All I get is a blue screen, no audio and no video.
> 
> 
> It's only the Mac Mini that demonstrates this problem. I originally wanted to insert this in between the Mac and the processor but I've never gotten it to work.



So you are going Mini to Anthem to display? Have you set the display properties on the Mini? You can do this by logging in remotely via VNC or ARD. VNC is free and Chicken of the Mac is a good solution. You can then configure the Mac remotely and see what's what.


----------



## SimonNo10

Hey guys. Well after experiencing the HDMI's failing one after the other (I posted a few pages back regarding this) I contacted the company where I purchased the D2v and explained what was happening and due to the history and the troubles I've had in the past, they spoke to the main repair company here in Australia and they offered to upgrade my unit to the 3D board and do it under warranty (expired Oct 2013). So dropped off the unit last Tues and picked it up Thurs that week so a very quick turnaround and after redoing ARC the unit has performed perfectly thus far. All I can say is the customer service that I've received from the place of purchase and has been incredible and have supported me since the purchase and have responded very quickly when I've encountered the problems.


I own a JVC X-35 projector which is 3D capable but haven't hooked up the 3D side of things as yet as I personally don't have much interest in 3D but may give it a try. So I ran ARC and decided to do 10 positions with the SVS ASEQ rather than 6 which I did last time and moved the front subwoofer (Seaton Submersive HP+) and didn't move the rear sub (same model) and was able to get a much flatter response than I've ever had before. I can't do anything about the Fronts so everything else has remained the same but ARC set the Rears to 115 where before they were set to 90.

Graph1.jpg 634k .jpg file

Graph2.jpg 627k .jpg file

Targets.jpg 107k .jpg file


I've yet to listen to this result but will spin some discs today and see how it sounds.


----------



## xMEATx

I am no expert, but the charts look good to me. Subs look to have a good response now, best of yours I recall seeing. Looks like you could set subs to flat in advanced settings, see if it improves on the low end for you. Congrats on getting everything sorted out.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xMEATx*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42390#post_24344783
> 
> 
> I am no expert, but the charts look good to me. Subs look to have a good response now, best of yours I recall seeing. Looks like you could set subs to flat in advanced settings, see if it improves on the low end for you. Congrats on getting everything sorted out.



Thanks. Yes I've added some room gain and set the subs to flat under advanced see graph:

BassGraph.jpg 632k .jpg file


I've just finished listening to Alan Parsons-On Air (DTS) and Brother in Arms SACD and I'm very impressed with everything. Bass is so tight and enveloping best I've heard my system to date.


----------



## Frank D




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42390#post_24344071
> 
> 
> Hey guys. Well after experiencing the HDMI's failing one after the other (I posted a few pages back regarding this) I contacted the company where I purchased the D2v and explained what was happening and due to the history and the troubles I've had in the past, they spoke to the main repair company here in Australia and they offered to upgrade my unit to the 3D board and do it under warranty (expired Oct 2013). So dropped off the unit last Tues and picked it up Thurs that week so a very quick turnaround and after redoing ARC the unit has performed perfectly thus far. All I can say is the customer service that I've received from the place of purchase and has been incredible and have supported me since the purchase and have responded very quickly when I've encountered the problems.
> 
> 
> I own a JVC X-35 projector which is 3D capable but haven't hooked up the 3D side of things as yet as I personally don't have much interest in 3D but may give it a try. So I ran ARC and decided to do 10 positions with the SVS ASEQ rather than 6 which I did last time and moved the front subwoofer (Seaton Submersive HP+) and didn't move the rear sub (same model) and was able to get a much flatter response than I've ever had before. I can't do anything about the Fronts so everything else has remained the same but ARC set the Rears to 115 where before they were set to 90.
> 
> Graph1.jpg 634k .jpg file
> 
> Graph2.jpg 627k .jpg file
> 
> Targets.jpg 107k .jpg file
> 
> 
> I've yet to listen to this result but will spin some discs today and see how it sounds.



Why use the SVS ASEQ? Wouldn't the ARC do a good enough job on it own?


By the way good looking graphs.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Frank D*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42390#post_24345299
> 
> *Why use the SVS ASEQ?* Wouldn't the ARC do a good enough job on it own?
> 
> 
> By the way good looking graphs.



Not when you have multiple subs in a challenging room (location) plus the ASEQ sets delay/phase which ARC doesn't do. The ASEQ was designed to specifically EQ subs so having that do the heavy lifting allows ARC to use it's resources on the other speakers plus adds it's own refinements to the subs as well. It's a great pairing much like the SMS-1 from Velodyne. Thanks for the comment as I'm happy with the results.


----------



## Frank D




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42390#post_24345370
> 
> 
> Not when you have multiple subs in a challenging room (location) plus the ASEQ sets delay/phase which ARC doesn't do. The ASEQ was designed to specifically EQ subs so having that do the heavy lifting allows ARC to use it's resources on the other speakers plus adds it's own refinements to the subs as well. It's a great pairing much like the SMS-1 from Velodyne. Thanks for the comment as I'm happy with the results.



Ok. So you did the ASEQ first and then ARC right?


I still have my ASEQ and SMS-1. Never know when you need them.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Frank D*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42390#post_24345534
> 
> 
> Ok. *So you did the ASEQ first and then ARC right?*
> 
> 
> I still have my ASEQ and SMS-1. Never know when you need them.



That's correct. I used to own an ASEQ when it first came out and before I owned a D2v but sold it when I purchased the Anthem as then I only had one sub and didn't need it. I was very fortunate that a fellow member on another website had one for sale so I bought it now that I'm running 2 subs.


----------



## dmusoke


Simon:

 

Since all your speakers dop off rapidly at 10KHz, i presume its either the speakers response or the mics response is at play. Hopefully, the mic was pointing all the way up. Either way all looks good now that your subs are set to flat. How much room gain did you add?

 

David


----------



## studlygoorite

I think my graphs look kind of wonky. Any ideas?

Fronts are about 12" from front wall and 18" from side walls[/quote]


I think they look wonky too, lots to comment about, maybe that's why a reply is still pending.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42390#post_24349243
> 
> 
> Simon:
> 
> 
> Since all your speakers dop off rapidly at 10KHz, i presume its either the speakers response or the mics response is at play. Hopefully, the mic was pointing all the way up. Either way all looks good now that your subs are set to flat. How much room gain did you add?
> 
> 
> David



Yes the Mic was pointing all the way up connected to a mic stand. I added 3.0 room gain (dropped it to 2 today and will test). I played my usual BD's ( Star Trek 2, Batman-Rises) last night and the sound is awesome and bass is clean and tight and packs a punch. Speakers are JTR Triple 8's for front stage and Slanted 8's for rear duty.


----------



## Thxtheater

What is the "best practice" for color calibration tween an Anthem and a display? I just got a new plasma TV to replace my dying old TV.


Do I calibrate the TV with the display controls first to Bluray using

My spears and Muncil and then tweak the other inputs on the Anthem?


I want to confirm the calibration order and priorities.


Thanks!


----------



## stanger89

You're probably best to calibrate the display with a known source, and then if some of your other sources (inputs) are off, you can tweak them to match through the Anthem (at least I think so, I never used that function). With my Lumagen I calibrate my display to the Lumagen's internal reference patterns, and then any of my sources that are out of whack are tweaked in the Lumagen.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42390#post_24351421
> 
> 
> You're probably best to calibrate the display with a known source, and then if some of your other sources (inputs) are off, you can tweak them to match through the Anthem (at least I think so, I never used that function). With my Lumagen I calibrate my display to the Lumagen's internal reference patterns, and then any of my sources that are out of whack are tweaked in the Lumagen.



That's sort of my hunch. But last night I decided to re-look at the user manual for that section and it refreshed my memory on the built-in color bars and patterns in the Anthem. So that got me wondering: should I first calibrate to those with the TV and then, go to my Blu-ray and calibrate that specific input with the Spears and Muncil disc.


The way I look at it, I could technically go several ways with calibration:


1) Calibrate using display controls only.

2) Calibrate using Anthem controls only.

3) Calibrate display to Anthem (using display settings) and then calibrate individual sources from the Anthem (using the Anthem settings).

4) Calibrate using display's calibration tools to Bluray Spears and Muncil disc and then calibrate every other source using only the Anthem.


See what I mean? Is there a "best practice" way of doing this?


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42390#post_24352278
> 
> 
> That's sort of my hunch. But last night I decided to re-look at the user manual for that section and it refreshed my memory on the built-in color bars and patterns in the Anthem. So that got me wondering: should I first calibrate to those with the TV and then, go to my Blu-ray and calibrate that specific input with the Spears and Muncil disc.



That's probably what I'd do, though you really shouldn't have to touch the Blu-ray input unless there's something out of whack. Individual input calibrations are a lot less necessary these days with HDMI, everything is pretty well defined and not variable like it was with analog connections. You probably won't need the input calibrations at all unless you've got some funky, non-standard source (or an analog source).


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stanger89*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42390#post_24352479
> 
> 
> That's probably what I'd do, though you really shouldn't have to touch the Blu-ray input unless there's something out of whack. Individual input calibrations are a lot less necessary these days with HDMI, everything is pretty well defined and not variable like it was with analog connections. You probably won't need the input calibrations at all unless you've got some funky, non-standard source (or an analog source).



I can appreciate what you're saying but I'm not sure I 100% agree with that. in my experience there's even sometimes significant variation by source. Just because HDMI is "digital" doesn't mean I'm getting the same color accuracy between sources.


For example, AppleTV. HDMI connection but if I use the THX calibration app I have variances

I have variances from my TV set top box via HDMI (and there are variations between channels)


The tougher thing with sources is the dearth of color bars to do proper basic calibration for each source.


----------



## stanger89

Oh, there are definitely exceptions/rogue sources out there, but I think "most" should be OK. I know with the sources I have, they're all well behaved and I don't need to use any per-input calibrations.


----------



## adri

For a non-3d d2v, what is the general opinion on the best firmware to use?

The standard 3.09 or the beta 3.09H or 3.09J?

The beta version seems to include some DTS inprovements, but I've heard the 3.09J sometimes has problems with the surrounds not playing.


----------



## Texas steve


Im using H on my non 3D.   J and up have surround issues on 5.1


----------



## adri




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24364990
> 
> 
> Im using H on my non 3D.   J and up have surround issues on 5.1


That's what I thought.

Does anyone have a version 3.09H, willing to share, or know where I can download it?

I only have the standard 3.09 and the 3.09J myself.


----------



## p.las

hey.

will it make any difference if i set the sub cut off to 120hz , vs the one ARC have set? 100hz) my main is all set to 80hz.

i have changed the room gain to 0db vs 3.9... ARC set it to.

simplyfied - does a 100hz sub cut off vs 120hz cut off any theoretic difference. Arc have no problem to correct up to 120hz...very smooth green line.

But this article conflict with this 120hz sub cut off ( copy from secret of home theater )

If you want the full LFE frequency range reproduced, you will need to set the subwoofer to 100Hz to hear all the sound effects (music will never be in the LFE channel if the mix engineer is minimally competent). As explained above, this comes with a really significant cost. An overlap between the L/R/C and the woofer will resultant in peaking in the overlapped region. With ARC, the Cinema mode may become a useful workaround. This allows for using a subwoofer crossover of 100Hz for movies but matching it to the lower value selected for L and R for music.


so - shall i go for 100hz ore 120hz Sub cut off


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *adri*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24366264
> 
> 
> That's what I thought.
> 
> Does anyone have a version 3.09H, willing to share, or know where I can download it?
> 
> I only have the standard 3.09 and the 3.09J myself.



Send me a PM with your emai land I will share 3.09h


----------



## porschetech

What's the best version to use on the d2v 3d? (Board was later added by dealer)


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24366394
> 
> 
> hey.
> 
> will it make any difference if i set the sub cut off to 120hz , vs the one ARC have set? 100hz) my main is all set to 80hz.
> 
> i have changed the room gain to 0db vs 3.9... ARC set it to.
> 
> simplyfied - does a 100hz sub cut off vs 120hz cut off any theoretic difference. Arc have no problem to correct up to 120hz...very smooth green line.
> 
> But this article conflict with this 120hz sub cut off ( copy from secret of home theater )
> 
> If you want the full LFE frequency range reproduced, you will need to set the subwoofer to 100Hz to hear all the sound effects (music will never be in the LFE channel if the mix engineer is minimally competent). As explained above, this comes with a really significant cost. An overlap between the L/R/C and the woofer will resultant in peaking in the overlapped region. With ARC, the Cinema mode may become a useful workaround. This allows for using a subwoofer crossover of 100Hz for movies but matching it to the lower value selected for L and R for music.
> 
> 
> so - shall i go for 100hz ore 120hz Sub cut off



Screw the article, go with ARC value especially if it gave you the full LFE range 120hz.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *porschetech*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24367649
> 
> 
> What's the best version to use on the d2v 3d? (Board was later added by dealer)


Dealer should have installed 3.10.


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24368279
> 
> 
> Screw the article, go with ARC value especially if it gave you the full LFE range 120hz.



So his theoretic insight is wrong?


good damn - sounded like his was on the top regards this article


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24368382
> 
> 
> So his theoretic insight is wrong?
> 
> 
> good damn - sounded like his was on the top regards this article



I'm not sure but it has come up before here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23667182


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24369013
> 
> 
> I'm not sure but it has come up before here:
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/41430#post_23667182



thanks


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. Sorry if this has been asked or covered before but I decided to re run ARC after setting the D2v to Factory Defaults as I like to start from fresh after having the unit upgraded to the 3D board with 3.10 firmware. One thing I noticed is the Surround channels are not present in the speaker position menu when I was putting the distances in for the speakers? After running ARC they show up and have the words "Auto" next to the surrounds only. Is this a new feature?


----------



## agrsiv95

This is under speaker config, you have the surrounds/rears set to di-pole instead of direct.


----------



## SimonNo10

I've never had that before. I've always been able to see the surrounds under speaker position regardless of wether it's set to dipole or direct. That's why I found it odd. Would that have affected ARC when the surrounds were set to dipole?


----------



## agrsiv95

If the setting is dipole and you have direct firing I would run ARC again for sure, I have had four Paradigm APD-590s since ARC was released. I do remember when I changed to them from direct firing I moved them down about 8" and went to subtract half a foot from the distance and it said auto. It's in the manual on page 24 and 29.

http://www.anthemav.com/downloads/d2v_manual.pdf 



Maybe that was what the ARC program did if you had them all checked in the ARC manual setup screen. I think you have to select your setup after a factory reset.


----------



## SimonNo10

Thank you for the assist. Looks like I'm running ARC again.


Update. Ran ARC and made a small adjustment to the surrounds by rotating the speaker so they sit with the driver pointing down and towards the main listening position (JTR Slanted 8HT's). They have been sitting on the stands upside down for stability on the stands and I did check first with Jeff the maker and he said it would be fine but decided to try with them angled so there now sitting right on the stands. See link to speaker to show what they look like:

http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/slanted-8/ 


Graph1.jpg 633k .jpg file

Graph2.jpg 632k .jpg file

Targets.jpg 637k .jpg file


I made sure that the surrounds were set to Direct this time, and ARC has set the surrounds to 140. Previous runs of ARC have had these set from 90 to 115 so it's the first time there've been set to this. Tried a BD which I use for testing and the system sounds great. I added 2.8 room gain and set the subs to Flat under advanced. Graphs are before adding anything.


----------



## porschetech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24368287
> 
> 
> Dealer should have installed 3.10.


Nope......3.09. I had to reinstall it as on screen features wasn't working. Maybe I'll install 3.10 and see what happens


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42390#post_24327976
> 
> 
> Pardon me if this has already been addressed. I find that when going from watching the movie on a BR to watching the extras, the audio often becomes very weak. Does anyone else have this problem? Anthem AVM50V, version 3.09.


Would one of the beta releases possibly address this? Is anyone willing to share one of them with me?


----------



## agrsiv95

Is Dolby volume on? Going from dts to dd may do that. I don't have any betas or I'd send them over.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24379275
> 
> 
> Is Dolby volume on? Going from dts to dd may do that. I don't have any betas or I'd send them over.


No Dolby volume. It doesn't happen all the time. It's easily fixed with a reboot, but a bit annoying.


----------



## agrsiv95

Gotcha. I've dealt with my share of quirks as well. Everything seems to be HDMI related, video no sound, sound no video, only the right channel when playing music in stereo and they are all corrected by rebooting. I have a Dr. HDMI ordered as recommended (thanks Thxtheater) to see if it helps with the headaches.


It would be nice to get a new firmware that has the DTS changes and other updates as an official firmware release.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24381092
> 
> 
> Gotcha. I've dealt with my share of quirks as well. Everything seems to be HDMI related, video no sound, sound no video, only the right channel when playing music in stereo and they are all corrected by rebooting. I have a Dr. HDMI ordered as recommended (thanks Thxtheater) to see if it helps with the headaches.
> 
> 
> It would be nice to get a new firmware that has the DTS changes and other updates as an official firmware release.



Let me know how the Dr. HDMI helps in your situation. I know how frustrating it can be. One thing I asked the folks at Dr. HDMI was certain situations and in the forums they said I might need a Dr. HDMI both between the display and Anthem and between the Anthem and my sources. I didn't and chose to start with a conservative route.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24381092
> 
> 
> It would be nice to get a new firmware that has the DTS changes and other updates as an official firmware release.



+1.


It would even be acceptable for Anthem to have 3.09h on the password protected page since they can't seem to figure out how to fix v3.10 for non-3D D2v's and AVM50v's.


----------



## thestewman

Since Anthem is not any help you can PM me for 3.09h I have it on Dropbox


----------



## tranle

I just bought a replacement mic for ARC. I have one of the older D2 and it had 2 calibration files one .cal and one .file, with the file name being _.{cal or file}.

The Anthem tech support only sent me 1 file Anthem.cal . Can the ARC software handle the 1 .cal format for the older D2 or do I have to request them the 2 files format ?


Just trying to figure out if I copy it in the wrong location or with the wrong name or I am missing a file.

The software is complaining that either it cannot find the mic or I am not authorized as for the older D2 unit the Mic was locked down to the Unit.


Thanks.


----------



## Janski

Hi,


How can I properly get digital audio out of my Zone 2 or 3?


I have my PJ connected out the Main HDMI.


I have out of Zone 2 output Component Video to a 5 way component/dig coax audio splitter and want Digital Audio to accompany that. (Ie: Digital audio of whatever source is selected in Zone 2)


I do not have any analog audio connected, nor do I want to use Analog Audio on any of the devices connected to Zone 2 - I want Digital Audio out.


Can the D2v do this? When searching, I saw recommendations to a.) Connect analog audio from sources (I do not want analog audio) or to b.) Copy the Main Path (I don't want to hear what is on in Main - I just want zone 2 audio outputted digitally.)


I see Digital Audio Outputs 1 and 2, but am not clear how this relates to whatever source is selected in Zone 2.


I would settle for any kind of audio for Zone2 - so long as it is transmitted digitally.


Thank you!

Mike


----------



## Janski

Well I just did it. I connected the analog audio out from source to Anthem and now even a source connected to Zone 2 only digitally does get the sound.


Thank you for your moral support!


----------



## Thxtheater

I have a really odd anomaly and looking for some insight. I am hooking up a new Panasonic 3D bluray player through the anthem avm50v3d set to pass through to a Panasonic plasma I get sparklies, audio, and video drops at the bluray player menu. I try to play a 3D bluray same thing obviously. I change cables and then I turn OFF deep color on the bluray Player and everything starts working flawlessly.


Any ideas why this might be the case?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24393955
> 
> 
> I just bought a replacement mic for ARC. I have one of the older D2 and it had 2 calibration files one .cal and one .file, with the file name being _.{cal or file}.
> 
> The Anthem tech support only sent me 1 file Anthem.cal . Can the ARC software handle the 1 .cal format for the older D2 or do I have to request them the 2 files format ?
> 
> 
> Just trying to figure out if I copy it in the wrong location or with the wrong name or I am missing a file.
> 
> The software is complaining that either it cannot find the mic or I am not authorized as for the older D2 unit the Mic was locked down to the Unit.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Back when ARC came out, it was an upgrade. ARC licenses were keyed to the serial number of the Anthem to keep people from buying one copy and using it on multiple devices (e.g., dealers). Since then, Anthem has changed approach, and now bundles ARC with all ARC capable hardware.


As such the latest version of ARC (v3.0.2) no longer enforces the serial number binding.


If you are still having a problem with ARC locating your new mic's calibration file, it may be you are using an older version of the ARC software on your Windows PC. Download ARC v3.0.2 from the Anthem public download pages and install it on your Windows PC. The same code works for all these Anthem units, including your D2, so you can just nab a copy from the downloads page for the D2v for example.


Now, in addition to the licensing change, Anthem also changed the location where it installs ARC It may be you are using the new ARC software but put your mic calibration file in the old location used by the older software. Here's what I recommend you do:


1) Go into Windows Control Panel > Add/Remove Programs and Uninstall any ARC software you spot in there. If you have more than one ARC app version installed, Uninstall all of them.


2) Reboot your Windows PC. Always wise to do after any install/uninstall actions


3) Download the ARC v3.0.2 install kit from the Anthem download pages -- e.g., for the D2v even though you have a D2. If your computer is not set to automatically UnZip such downloads, then do the UnZip yourself -- you will end up with a Folder with a bunch of stuff in it.


4) Dive into that folder until you find the Setup.Exe program -- which is the installer itself. Copy your new mic's calibration file into that same place with Setup.Exe.


5) Now run the Setup.Exe program. It will Install ARC v3.0.2 and copy your new mic's calibration file to the right place.


6) Reboot your Windows PC again since you just did an install.


7) Run your newly installed ARC. Test that it can find the new mic by, for example, running Quick Measure in the Tools menu. ARC may list the mic calibration files it found, even if there is only one. Be sure to highlight the one that matches the serial number of your new mic before clicking OK.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24394977
> 
> 
> I have a really odd anomaly and looking for some insight. I am hooking up a new Panasonic 3D bluray player through the anthem avm50v3d set to pass through to a Panasonic plasma I get sparklies, audio, and video drops at the bluray player menu. I try to play a 3D bluray same thing obviously. I change cables and then I turn OFF deep color on the bluray Player and everything starts working flawlessly.
> 
> 
> Any ideas why this might be the case?



You need to upgrade your HDMI cables.


The Sparklies is a classic symptom of marginal cabling -- they happen due to bit drops in the video signal. Cabling is more likely to fail when you put higher bandwidth video on the cable. The video bandwidth goes up when you increase Resolution and also when you increase the number of bits sent for each pixel (i.e., Deep Color). Evidently by turning off Deep Color you've trimmed the video bandwidth down to the level your cable can handle.


Longer cables are more prone to problems. ANYTHING in the signal path may cause problems: Daisy chained cables, adapters, wall plates, HDMI switches, gizmos like Darbee Darblet. ANYTHING. So if it is not the cable itself that is at fault, it could easily be any of these. Strip them out of the connection to test, and put them back one at a time. Also keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so the problem could be in the cabling from the player to the Anthem or from the Anthem to the display.


When buying new cables, look for cables marked as "For 1080p", or "High Speed", or "Category 2" which all mean the same thing.


The new Redmere technology cables have an active circuit at one plug end (which also means they are directional and have to be plugged in the right way around). The active circuit helps make a longer Redmere cable work as well as a normal length cable.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Janski*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24394912
> 
> 
> Well I just did it. I connected the analog audio out from source to Anthem and now even a source connected to Zone 2 only digitally does get the sound.
> 
> 
> Thank you for your moral support!



See the gray, helpful tip, box at the end of Section 2.2 of the D2v Manual.


Basically Zone 2 needs the same type of input from the Source as you are trying to output on Zone 2. The exception is when using "Copy" mode -- where Zone 2 plays the same Source as is selected for the Main path.


Setup > Source Setup allows you to configure multiple input connections for a Source. So, as you found out, you can configure an Analog audio input from the Source even though the Main path might not use it because it is getting its audio input digitally as from an HDMI connection. But even though Main path doesn't use it, the configured Analog audio input from that Source is still available for use by Zone 2 or Zone 3. So long as the Source device keeps both its Analog and Digital audio outputs live simultaneously, this works.

--Bob


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24394977
> 
> 
> I have a really odd anomaly and looking for some insight. I am hooking up a new Panasonic 3D bluray player through the anthem avm50v3d set to pass through to a Panasonic plasma I get sparklies, audio, and video drops at the bluray player menu. I try to play a 3D bluray same thing obviously. I change cables and then I turn OFF deep color on the bluray Player and everything starts working flawlessly.
> 
> 
> Any ideas why this might be the case?



The Anthem may still need to be changed to 12 bit (menu, video output and then futput) in the setup menu for that input even though you have it set to through to stop the sparklies. Auto doesn't seem pick up on it.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42420#post_24395024
> 
> 
> You need to upgrade your HDMI cables.
> 
> 
> The Sparklies is a classic symptom of marginal cabling -- they happen due to bit drops in the video signal. Cabling is more likely to fail when you put higher bandwidth video on the cable. The video bandwidth goes up when you increase Resolution and also when you increase the number of bits sent for each pixel (i.e., Deep Color). Evidently by turning off Deep Color you've trimmed the video bandwidth down to the level your cable can handle.
> 
> 
> Longer cables are more prone to problems. ANYTHING in the signal path may cause problems: Daisy chained cables, adapters, wall plates, HDMI switches, gizmos like Darbee Darblet. ANYTHING. So if it is not the cable itself that is at fault, it could easily be any of these. Strip them out of the connection to test, and put them back one at a time. Also keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so the problem could be in the cabling from the player to the Anthem or from the Anthem to the display.
> 
> 
> When buying new cables, look for cables marked as "For 1080p", or "High Speed", or "Category 2" which all mean the same thing.
> 
> 
> The new Redmere technology cables have an active circuit at one plug end (which also means they are directional and have to be plugged in the right way around). The active circuit helps make a longer Redmere cable work as well as a normal length cable.
> 
> --Bob



Hi Bob,


That's what I was figuring too but my cables are Redmere between the Anthem and the display and then they are blujeans and monoprice high speed (I tried both in this situation). Yes, that was my inclination too initially but why would turning off the deep color option suddenly make things work without issue on the Anthem? Anytime you in particular post in this thread my ears perk up 6-fold. I'm really careful about the cabling I'm using and I only use Redmere/Monoprice, Bluejeans and Tributires in my setup and they are all high speed rated. I'll try Agrsiv95's suggestion too of setting the output to 12 bit. I don't recall if I set it at 8 bit or auto. I'll play with it a bi and report back.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Turning OFF Deep Color reduces bandwidth on the HDMI cable -- fewer bits per pixel are transmitted -- much like lowering video Resolution reduces bandwidth.


It is classic that Sparklies will go away when you reduce the bandwidth of the signal. Try lowering video Resolution in and out of the Anthem and I suspect you'll see them go away as well.


HDMI cabling failures happen even when using good cables. It could be as simple as a plug not fully inserted straight into the socket -- or poor mechanical fit between plug and socket -- or physical damage to a plug or socket.


Think carefully about what you've fiddled with recently in the HDMI path. The culprit is likely a device you inserted in the path or a plug/socket poor connection resulting from your having recently fiddled with some of the plugs. If you can remember what you've touched recently, that will likely lead you to the problem.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24396366
> 
> 
> ^ Turning OFF Deep Color reduces bandwidth on the HDMI cable -- fewer bits per pixel are transmitted -- much like lowering video Resolution reduces bandwidth.
> 
> 
> It is classic that Sparklies will go away when you reduce the bandwidth of the signal. Try lowering video Resolution in and out of the Anthem and I suspect you'll see them go away as well.
> 
> 
> HDMI cabling failures happen even when using good cables. It could be as simple as a plug not fully inserted straight into the socket -- or poor mechanical fit between plug and socket -- or physical damage to a plug or socket.
> 
> 
> Think carefully about what you've fiddled with recently in the HDMI path. The culprit is likely a device you inserted in the path or a plug/socket poor connection resulting from your having recently fiddled with some of the plugs. If you can remember what you've touched recently, that will likely lead you to the problem.
> 
> --Bob



Everything is the same except for the new 3D Bluray player. I'm going to try ordering brand new cables again that are UltraHD bandwidth certified from Monoprice and see what happens. I'll also try changing the signal to 12 bit from the Anthem video settings.


Thanks guys!


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24396723
> 
> 
> Everything is the same except for the new 3D Bluray player. I'm going to try ordering brand new cables again that are UltraHD bandwidth certified from Monoprice and see what happens. I'll also try changing the signal to 12 bit from the Anthem video settings.
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!



Switch the setting before clicking the order button.










Just tested it again from my Oppo-103 and I get sparklies if the D2v is set to auto and the Oppo is set to 30 or 36. Hope it works for you.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You are saying you get Sparklies if Output is set to AUTO but not when set to 12 bit? That's bizarre. That suggests a handshake failure for AUTO -- disagreement between the Anthem and the Display as to how many bits per pixel are actually in use. But a video format disagreement that dramatic should also cause copy protection to fail -- i.e., you should get no video. Is this happening all the time, or only when you have THROUGH mode selected as for 3D viewing?

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

That is odd, because any of those video output settings should be irrelevant when using THROUGH.


I wouldn't bother with deep color anyway.


Frame rate will also greatly affect bandwidth. Do you guys only get the sparkles when displaying the player menu (1080p60) and not when playing a Blu-ray (1080p24)?


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24396920
> 
> 
> ^ You are saying you get Sparklies if Output is set to AUTO but not when set to 12 bit? That's bizarre. That suggests a handshake failure for AUTO -- disagreement between the Anthem and the Display as to how many bits per pixel are actually in use. But a video format disagreement that dramatic should also cause copy protection to fail -- i.e., you should get no video. Is this happening all the time, or only when you have THROUGH mode selected as for 3D viewing?
> 
> --Bob



Sorry, I have a non 3-D. I found this when I replaced the HDMI cable (6m Monster Cable with a 25ft BJ cable) when I rearranged the rack to add the 103.


A fellow AVSer stopped by to check out the 103 and was going through it's settings and tried the deep color settings in the Oppo to find the sparklies. The first thing he said was what cables are you using? I said that I just replaced the display cable when I rearranged so I plugged it directly from the Oppo to the projector and they were gone. So the next step was to try the settings in the D2v.


----------



## agrsiv95




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24396944
> 
> 
> That is odd, because any of those video output settings should be irrelevant when using THROUGH.
> 
> 
> I wouldn't bother with deep color anyway.
> 
> 
> Frame rate will also greatly affect bandwidth. Do you guys only get the sparkles when displaying the menu (1080p60) and not when playing a Blu-ray (1080p24)?



It only shows up with the deep color settings. 1080p24 or 60 work fine.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24396986
> 
> 
> It only shows up with the deep color settings. 1080p24 or 60 work fine.



That does not answer my question. With deep color ON in the player (repeat question)


----------



## agrsiv95

Which menu? I see zero on the Anthem menu but see them on the Oppo home screen. With deep color on in the player, I see sparkles unless I change the setting in the Anthem. The player is set to source direct and the Anthem is set to 1080p24 for video config 1. With deep color off and set to auto they are gone as well. I will try it with a blu-ray and see.



Just did the Oppo update and now they gone regardless of the settings I use. Gotta love HDMI. The Dr. HDMI should be here Tuesday so I can't wait to see what happens with that in the chain.


Sorry Thxtheater, hope you figure it out.


----------



## MACCA350

Not sure if the D2v passthrough for 3D has a signal amplifier or not, but if it doesn't it can make connecting a bit of a headache.


I came upon this 'HDMI sparkles' issue years ago when I introduced a simple HDMI switch into my system. Because it had no signal amplifier built in, the short HDMI lead and the long lead up to the projector didn't play nice.

Think of it this way, a short HDMI cable can use thinner gauge (higher resistance) wire since it only a short run. Longer runs need thicker gauge (lower resistance) wire to ensure the signal gets through. If you join both those cables together, such as through a wall socket or HDMI switch(or in this matter, possibly the D2v's 3D passthrough) that does not amplify the signal then the short higher resistance cable can degrade the signal enough that errors will cause 'HDMI sparkles' to appear on the display or no signal at all.


How I fixed my HDMI sparkles years ago was to get a thicker gauge short HDMI cable from monoprice.


Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Even the fan out and fan back in of the wires at a wall plate or daisy-chain join is enough to degrade the signal. Blue Jeans Cable used to have a nice writeup on their site helping to explain why wall plates were screwing up 1080p for so many people.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24397167
> 
> 
> Which menu? I see zero on the Anthem menu but see them on the Oppo home screen. With deep color on in the player, I see sparkles unless I change the setting in the Anthem. The player is set to source direct and the Anthem is set to 1080p24 for video config 1. With deep color off and set to auto they are gone as well. I will try it with a blu-ray and see.
> 
> 
> 
> Just did the Oppo update and now they gone regardless of the settings I use. Gotta love HDMI. The Dr. HDMI should be here Tuesday so I can't wait to see what happens with that in the chain.
> 
> 
> Sorry Thxtheater, hope you figure it out.



We'll see what's what. I did put 12 bit and 444 but no luck. I'll try more later but I don't think it will make a difference.


I did order new cables again from Monoprice and made sure they were Redmere 18gbps. All my other cables are high speed.


I have a non-3D Oppo and just picked up an inexpensive 3D Panasonic Blu-ray BDT-230 on sale just for 3D viewing. The Deep color setting is either "auto" or "off". Auto gives problems; and "off" gives no issues at all. I just updated the firmware on the Panasonic and no difference Deep Color set to "auto" gives problems and setting it to "off" gives a flawless presentation. I also made sure to turn off flags, CEC, etc.


The problems happen right from the Panasonic menus without even attempting to play a Blu-ray so something is messed up somewhere.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42360#post_24266770
> 
> 
> Do not alter the settings ARC Uploads into the Setup menu -- it will screw up the ARC solution. ARC uses the bass management capabilities of the Anthem (in particular its Crossover filters) as just one tool in forming the room correction solution. The Room Correction parameters handle the rest. If you alter the Crossover values in Setup after the ARC Upload, then the math already built into the Room Correction parameters (also Uploaded) will no longer be correct.
> 
> 
> Think about it: Room Correction depends on speaker position. The Crossover moves bass from a speaker to the Sub (a different physical location with its own, unique coupling to the room). If you change the Crossover then you change whether speaker or sub is playing that adjusted portion of the bass. And thus how the Room Correction parameters need to be applied. (In reality it is even more complex as ARC blends the output of the speaker and Sub through the Crossover range. Shifting the Crossover shifts how that blending needs to be done.)
> 
> 
> If you feel the need to change anything in ARC's automatic solution, you should do it in the ARC Windows application -- i.e., in the Targets window. Then re-Calculate and re-Upload so that any new Setup values that result are matched with new Room Correction parameters, also Uploaded.
> 
> --Bob


I have a very hard time with what you're saying here, Bob. My front L/Rs have flat response to below 20 Hz, so I set the target for them to flat. When I uploaded the solution, the 50V set the sub LFE crossover at 5 Hz, which means it's effectively ABSENT. You really think it's reasonable to be locked into that?


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42400_50#post_24395005
> 
> 
> Back when ARC came out, it was an upgrade. ARC licenses were keyed to the serial number of the Anthem to keep people from buying one copy and using it on multiple devices (e.g., dealers). Since then, Anthem has changed approach, and now bundles ARC with all ARC capable hardware.
> 
> 
> As such the latest version of ARC (v3.0.2) no longer enforces the serial number binding.
> 
> 
> If you are still having a problem with ARC locating your new mic's calibration file, it may be you are using an older version of the ARC software on your Windows PC. Download ARC v3.0.2 from the Anthem public download pages and install it on your Windows PC. The same code works for all these Anthem units, including your D2, so you can just nab a copy from the downloads page for the D2v for example.
> 
> 
> Now, in addition to the licensing change, Anthem also changed the location where it installs ARC It may be you are using the new ARC software but put your mic calibration file in the old location used by the older software. Here's what I recommend you do:
> 
> 
> .....
> 
> 5) Now run the Setup.Exe program. It will Install ARC v3.0.2 and copy your new mic's calibration file to the right place.
> 
> 
> 6) Reboot your Windows PC again since you just did an install.
> 
> 
> 7) Run your newly installed ARC. Test that it can find the new mic by, for example, running Quick Measure in the Tools menu. ARC may list the mic calibration files it found, even if there is only one. Be sure to highlight the one that matches the serial number of your new mic before clicking OK.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob,

I was already running ARC 3.0.2 but I did try as you recommended and reinstalled everything. But I am still getting no valid microphone found after selecting the serial number of the new microphone.


The microphone works because I can record stuff with windows.

Do you know if there is any way to verify that S/N in the microphone correspond to the one of the label outside ?


Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24398091
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42400_50#post_24395005
> 
> 
> Back when ARC came out, it was an upgrade. ARC licenses were keyed to the serial number of the Anthem to keep people from buying one copy and using it on multiple devices (e.g., dealers). Since then, Anthem has changed approach, and now bundles ARC with all ARC capable hardware.
> 
> 
> As such the latest version of ARC (v3.0.2) no longer enforces the serial number binding.
> 
> 
> If you are still having a problem with ARC locating your new mic's calibration file, it may be you are using an older version of the ARC software on your Windows PC. Download ARC v3.0.2 from the Anthem public download pages and install it on your Windows PC. The same code works for all these Anthem units, including your D2, so you can just nab a copy from the downloads page for the D2v for example.
> 
> 
> Now, in addition to the licensing change, Anthem also changed the location where it installs ARC It may be you are using the new ARC software but put your mic calibration file in the old location used by the older software. Here's what I recommend you do:
> 
> 
> .....
> 
> 5) Now run the Setup.Exe program. It will Install ARC v3.0.2 and copy your new mic's calibration file to the right place.
> 
> 
> 6) Reboot your Windows PC again since you just did an install.
> 
> 
> 7) Run your newly installed ARC. Test that it can find the new mic by, for example, running Quick Measure in the Tools menu. ARC may list the mic calibration files it found, even if there is only one. Be sure to highlight the one that matches the serial number of your new mic before clicking OK.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> I was already running ARC 3.0.2 but I did try as you recommended and reinstalled everything. But I am still getting no valid microphone found after selecting the serial number of the new microphone.
> 
> 
> The microphone works because I can record stuff with windows.
> 
> Do you know if there is any way to verify that S/N in the microphone correspond to the one of the label outside ?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
Click to expand...


The serial number is not read from the microphone. ARC can tell it is an ARC mic, but not WHICH ARC mic, which is why you have to manually select the correct one from the list it displays.


It's possible you just got a dud mic -- works for audio but doesn't identify itself properly. Get in touch with Anthem tech support. They do have a procedure you can go through to make sure your Windows PC is set up properly to use the ARC mic (and not get confused by other audio input sources it may also have configured). Be sure to tell them what flavor of Windows you are running so they can get you that info as a last check before swapping out the mic.


Make sure the USB plugs are fully inserted at both ends. If you have more than one USB port on our Windows PC, try an alternate port to see if Windows can set things up properly on that one.

--Bob


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24397931
> 
> 
> We'll see what's what. I did put 12 bit and 444 but no luck. I'll try more later but I don't think it will make a difference.
> 
> 
> I did order new cables again from Monoprice and made sure they were Redmere 18gbps. All my other cables are high speed.
> 
> 
> I have a non-3D Oppo and just picked up an inexpensive 3D Panasonic Blu-ray BDT-230 on sale just for 3D viewing. The Deep color setting is either "auto" or "off". Auto gives problems; and "off" gives no issues at all. I just updated the firmware on the Panasonic and no difference Deep Color set to "auto" gives problems and setting it to "off" gives a flawless presentation. I also made sure to turn off flags, CEC, etc.
> 
> 
> The problems happen right from the Panasonic menus without even attempting to play a Blu-ray so something is messed up somewhere.



I might have missed this, but since I don't recall seeing it:


"Deep Color" is utterly pointless for Blu-ray, there is no reason to turn it on. Deep Color is referring to 10-12 bit coding, Blu-ray is 8-bit, you aren't losing anything by turning it off, nor gaining anything by turning it on, so if everything works with Deep Color off, I would just turn it off and be happy.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24397963
> 
> 
> I have a very hard time with what you;re saying here, Bob. My front L/Rs have flat response to below 20 Hz, so I set the target for them to flat. When I uploaded the solution, the 50V set the sub LFE crossover at 5 Hz, which means it's effectively ABSENT. You really think it's reasonable to be locked into that?



Never seen an ARC recommendation like that.

Maybe post your charts and the targets so an assessment can be properly done


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24398316
> 
> 
> Never seen an ARC recommendation like that.
> 
> Maybe post your charts and the targets so an assessment can be properly done


  


 



You can see that both the fronts and the sub are flat down to at least 20 Hz. According to what's being said here, the bass capabilities of the fronts are essentially meaningless when selecting targets, since adjusting the sub crossover above the chosen 5 Hz value is "verboten".


Targets for fronts, surrounds, rears, and sub are flat/no crossover, 40, 60, and 160 respectively.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Please post your Targets window and report the full set of Crossover values Uploaded into Setup > Speaker Management.


Based on the charts alone, I would expect the Uploaded Sub Crossover to be around 50Hz to match the Surrounds. If you actually got a 5Hz value Uploaded that sounds to me like an Upload data transfer error.


The Uploaded Crossover value for the Sub does not affect the Sub's performance as regards LFE content. The ARC solution provides a more sophisticated version of the old Bypass LFE setting in Setup to handle that.


The Sub Crossover is also not involved in the output of your fronts, as flat implies "full range" -- i.e., no bass being steered from them to the Sub.

--Bob


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24398382
> 
> 
> ^ Please post your Targets window and report the full set of Crossover values Uploaded into Setup > Speaker Management.
> 
> 
> Based on the charts alone, I would expect the Sub Crossover to be around 50Hz to match the Surrounds. If you actually got a 5Hz value Uploaded that sounds to me like an Upload data transfer error.
> 
> 
> The Uploaded Crossover value for the Sub does not affect the Sub's performance as regards LFE content. The ARC solution provides a more sophisticated version of the old Bypass LFE setting in Setup to handle that.
> 
> --Bob


I've uploaded these values several times, and it always says 5 Hz, so I doubt it's a data transfer error. If it's not 5Hz, how do I know what it really is?


Crossover values uploaded are Advanced on for all speakers, 30 Hz for the surrounds (neither the calculated curves nor the speaker specs justify such a low value), 50 Hz for the rears,

fronts set flat/no crossover, 1 sub, 5 Hz crossover.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Well I suppose it could be a bug. I suggest you email your results file (not just screen captures of the results) to Anthem Tech Support and ask them what's up. They have tools to look at the raw data in the file to see what's happening with the Calculation and what should be getting Uploaded.


As I said, based on the charts, I would expect the Sub Crossover to have an uploaded value around 50Hz to match with the Surrounds.


Did you set the Sub Cutoff in Targets up to 160Hz? I don't believe I've seen a case where ARC itself picks a value above 120Hz for that.



Another, thing to try would be to make a copy of the Results file (so you don't alter the original). Using that copy, do an Auto-Detect in Targets, which should restore the original values. Accept that change in Targets, re-Calculate, and re-Upload and see what you get.


"Flat" is a rarely used option even for full range fronts, so it wouldn't surprise me if you've managed to tickle up a bug.

--Bob


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450_50#post_24398135
> 
> 
> The serial number is not read from the microphone. ARC can tell it is an ARC mic, but not WHICH ARC mic, which is why you have to manually select the correct one from the list it displays.
> 
> 
> It's possible you just got a dud mic -- works for audio but doesn't identify itself properly. Get in touch with Anthem tech support. They do have a procedure you can go through to make sure your Windows PC is set up properly to use the ARC mic (and not get confused by other audio input sources it may also have configured). Be sure to tell them what flavor of Windows you are running so they can get you that info as a last check before swapping out the mic.
> 
> 
> Make sure the USB plugs are fully inserted at both ends. If you have more than one USB port on our Windows PC, try an alternate port to see if Windows can set things up properly on that one.
> 
> --Bob


Thanks Bob,

I have already sent an email to Anthem. Hopefully they have a way for me to check the MIC.

If the MIC itself does not have a S/N written into its firmware then it must be a bad MIC because my old MIC still works fine with same machine/software/cable.


Thanks.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24398577
> 
> 
> ^ Well I suppose it could be a bug. I suggest you email your results file (not just screen captures of the results) to Anthem Tech Support and ask them what's up. They have tools to look at the raw data in the file to see what's happening with the Calculation and what should be getting Uploaded.
> 
> 
> As I said, based on the charts, I would expect the Sub Crossover to have an uploaded value around 50Hz to match with the Surrounds.
> 
> 
> Did you set the Sub Cutoff in Targets up to 160Hz? I don't believe I've seen a case where ARC itself picks a value above 120Hz for that.
> 
> 
> 
> Another, thing to try would be to make a copy of the Results file (so you don't alter the original). Using that copy, do an Auto-Detect in Targets, which should restore the original values. Accept that change in Targets, re-Calculate, and re-Upload and see what you get.
> 
> 
> "Flat" is a rarely used option even for full range fronts, so it wouldn't surprise me if you've managed to tickle up a bug.
> 
> --Bob


Thanks Bob. For now, I've set the sub and surround/rear crossovers to 50 Hz. I did set the sub cutoff to 160, based on the rolloff I was seeing at other settings.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24397931
> 
> 
> We'll see what's what. I did put 12 bit and 444 but no luck. I'll try more later but I don't think it will make a difference.
> 
> 
> I did order new cables again from Monoprice and made sure they were Redmere 18gbps. All my other cables are high speed.
> 
> 
> I have a non-3D Oppo and just picked up an inexpensive 3D Panasonic Blu-ray BDT-230 on sale just for 3D viewing. The Deep color setting is either "auto" or "off". Auto gives problems; and "off" gives no issues at all. I just updated the firmware on the Panasonic and no difference Deep Color set to "auto" gives problems and setting it to "off" gives a flawless presentation. I also made sure to turn off flags, CEC, etc.
> 
> 
> The problems happen right from the Panasonic menus without even attempting to play a Blu-ray so something is messed up somewhere.


That cable may not help, it will work on its own but if daisy chained with a long cable may cause issues.


Most short HDMI cables will be around 30awg or higher, I used a 3ft 24awg HDMI cable to fix the issue.......like this one http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024012&p_id=4157&seq=1&format=2&utm_expid=58369800-11.R-enhtUGRrSdHz5vzpVS2g.0&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.monoprice.com%2FSearch%2FIndex%3Fkeyword%3D24awg%2BHDMI%2Bcable 


Cheers


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24399113
> 
> 
> That cable may not help, it will work on its own but if daisy chained with a long cable may cause issues.
> 
> 
> Most short HDMI cables will be around 30awg or higher, I used a 3ft 24awg HDMI cable to fix the issue.......like this one http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024012&p_id=4157&seq=1&format=2&utm_expid=58369800-11.R-enhtUGRrSdHz5vzpVS2g.0&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.monoprice.com%2FSearch%2FIndex%3Fkeyword%3D24awg%2BHDMI%2Bcable
> 
> 
> Cheers



My house is like a Blue Jeans, Tributaries, and Monoprice HDMI cable shop.


I was for years using a BlueJeans series1 25 foot cable. I recently switched to a Monoprice RedMere cable (don't recall if it's 20 or 30 foot). That came as a result of trying to figure out issues that ended up being EDID related. I simply kept the RedMere slim series (not the ultra-slim) cable in place.


I have 28, 24 BlueJeans and Monoprice cables in 3, 6, and 8 foot lengths. I've used these between the Panasonic and the Anthem. It makes no difference what cable I try, I still get the anomalies.


I actually have exactly the same cable you're referencing above. I'll be happy to try that one too but at the end of the day, my gut tells me that my cables are fine. At what point can you change out cable after cable after cable and still assume it's the cable? I'm almost convinced there's something else under the hood going on with the player. I have the Anthem connected to a brand new ZT60 Panasonic Plasma where I've calibrated it to REC 709 color space.


Nevertheless, I really appreciate some of the thoughts and suggestions. I'm definitely taking them to heart, revisiting my cabling again and again and not afraid to try suggestions.


Thanks a ton guys, your feedback is very much appreciated!


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24397681
> 
> 
> ^ Even the fan out and fan back in of the wires at a wall plate or daisy-chain join is enough to degrade the signal. Blue Jeans Cable used to have a nice writeup on their site helping to explain why wall plates were screwing up 1080p for so many people.
> 
> --Bob



Bob have you seen that issue with the AVM/D2s when using different cables on either end? That's an interesting point.


BTW, I have an HDMI tester so I test all my cables.


I'll run a test end-to-end through the Anthem and see what I get; however I'm not sure that the tester will address deep color. I also need to check if my Oppo BDP-83 has Deep Color enabled. I don't have the problem at all with my Oppo.


----------



## Thxtheater

Speaking specifically to the issue of Bandwidth over the HDMI connection, I'm curious about the bandwidth difference between Deep Color and 3D. I'm able to play 3D Blu-rays just fine with deep color turned off. However, I'm getting the issue just with the Panasonic menu with Deep Color on (and I don't think that the Panasonic menu is passing any deep color). I'm wondering if the Anthem is having trouble negotiating the connection with deep color turned on. Could that be a possibility?


I'm also assuming I could test that by disconnecting the display... hmm...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The menu is likely 1080p/60 whereas the 3D video is likely 1080p/24.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobertR*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24398436
> 
> 
> I've uploaded these values several times, and it always says 5 Hz, so I doubt it's a data transfer error. If it's not 5Hz, how do I know what it really is?
> 
> 
> Crossover values uploaded are Advanced on for all speakers, 30 Hz for the surrounds (neither the calculated curves nor the speaker specs justify such a low value), 50 Hz for the rears,
> 
> fronts set flat/no crossover, 1 sub, 5 Hz crossover.



I know you are going to ask Anthem for help with your issues but want to ask a few related and non related questions and make a suggestion.


What brand and model front speakers ?

Do they have powered subs woofers as part of their design ?

Why do you not have a Center speaker for your 7.1 Movie configuration ?

My suggestion is that possibly you may be exceeding the capabilities of the ARC system by extending the bass to flat on the front and sub speakers and the high frequencies to 15 khz.

Why not retest with the front speakers set to a more reasonable low freq and the high freq set to something more reasonable such as 8 or 10 khz and see what ARC suggests.

Then make small adjustments from there.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24399854
> 
> 
> The menu is likely 1080p/60 whereas the 3D video is likely 1080p/24.
> 
> --Bob



Excellent point!


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24399722
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450#post_24397681
> 
> 
> ^ Even the fan out and fan back in of the wires at a wall plate or daisy-chain join is enough to degrade the signal. Blue Jeans Cable used to have a nice writeup on their site helping to explain why wall plates were screwing up 1080p for so many people.
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob have you seen that issue with the AVM/D2s when using different cables on either end? That's an interesting point.
> 
> 
> BTW, I have an HDMI tester so I test all my cables.
> 
> 
> I'll run a test end-to-end through the Anthem and see what I get; however I'm not sure that the tester will address deep color. I also need to check if my Oppo BDP-83 has Deep Color enabled. I don't have the problem at all with my Oppo.
Click to expand...


No. The difference is that unlike a daisy-chain connection, adapter or wall plate, the Anthem regenerates the signal for output -- even in THROUGH mode.

--Bob


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24400793
> 
> 
> No. The difference is that unlike a daisy-chain connection, adapter or wall plate, the Anthem regenerates the signal for output -- even in THROUGH mode.
> 
> --Bob


Well that put my suggestion off the table, thanks for the info Bob










Cheers


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24400691
> 
> 
> Excellent point!



That's why I was asking if the problem stops when you play a BD recorded in 1080p24. The Panny switches to 1080p24 output only when the movie starts.


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24400224
> 
> 
> I know you are going to ask Anthem for help with your issues but want to ask a few related and non related questions and make a suggestion.
> 
> 
> What brand and model front speakers ?
> 
> Do they have powered subs woofers as part of their design ?
> 
> Why do you not have a Center speaker for your 7.1 Movie configuration ?
> 
> My suggestion is that possibly you may be exceeding the capabilities of the ARC system by extending the bass to flat on the front and sub speakers and the high frequencies to 15 khz.
> 
> Why not retest with the front speakers set to a more reasonable low freq and the high freq set to something more reasonable such as 8 or 10 khz and see what ARC suggests.
> 
> Then make small adjustments from there.



Fronts are VMPS SRE FF1s:

 


Spec'd Frequency response: +0, -3dB 16Hz-40kHz. VMPS speakers are known for their very deep bass. Seems a shame to treat them as if they're much smaller speakers.


Speakers are biamped with an external crossover. There's no built in amplification. Never really felt the need for a center channel, but I may add one someday. I don't think the "bug" has anything to do with the 15 kHz setting, as it didn't show itself when I had the settings at 15 kHz and a more "conventional" setting for the bass. I could try other combinations, though, and see what happens.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24401245
> 
> 
> That's why I was asking if the problem stops when you play a BD recorded in 1080p24. The Panny switches to 1080p24 output only when the movie starts.


Even when the 3d movie plays the problem persists. That's why it's odd.


----------



## Thxtheater

Well everyone, the deep color plot thickens. I turned on Deep Color on my Oppo BDP-83 and no problems at all. My Oppo is going through the DR. HDMI and I didn't set it as "Passthrough". It's therefore not a true apples to apples comparison. Nevertheless, one would conjecture that if it was an HDMI bandwidth issue then I should have certainly had a problem—especially since my cabling to my Oppo is adding another 8 feet to the HDMI chain.


I haven't had time to really devote to this in detail, but it's certainly odd.


I'll take the HDMI cable that I'm using to the Oppo and connect to the Panasonic. They are in different racks in my setup so it's just not a 5 second swap.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You have to take the DR HDMI out of the path for this to be a meaningful test, as it may have prevented Deep Color from being used.


In all cases, electing to use Deep Color output from some device does not force Deep Color. It simply enables the Source to use Deep Color if the next device in the chain reports that it can accept it. Despite your setting, the OPPO will actually use Deep Color OFF if the next device in the chain says it does not want Deep Color (e.g., the DR HDMI).


The choice of output format (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4, YCbCr 4:2:2, RGB) can also effect whether Deep Color is actually used after the handshake. There are even known cases of Displays which accept Deep Color for 1080p/24 but not for 1080p/60. Unless you have status info available showing what's ACTUALLY on the cable, it is tough to know whether or not Deep Color is being used for a given handshake.


What's NOT tough to know is that Sparklies are a classic symptom of too much bandwidth on the HDMI for the cabling to handle. Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so you have to consider the entirety of the HDMI path from Source to Display, as any piece of that path might be the culprit EVEN THOUGH the failure is triggered by settings changes someplace else in the path.

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

I'm about to run ARC. It's been a while since I last ran it but just need to confirm steps:


Is 3.09 or 3.10 the desired D2v 3D firmware level?


1. Reset unit to Factory Defaults

2 . Set speaker distances manually using tape measure from each speaker to main listening position.

3. Set test level to 75 dB and sub to 75 dB using the volume knob on the back of the sub.

4. Zero out every speaker level and sub by setting each value to zero. Here, I do not want to go to each speaker and manually calibrate each speakers test tone to 75db. I only want to manually set the sub's speaker level to 75db's with its volume knob. In other words, I leave every speaker level at zero and let ARC set that. I just set the test tone to 75db's using my SPL and the sub to 75db's using its volume knob and my SPL?

5. Run ARC


I have two paradigm sub 15's. One is at the front and the other is at the back. I have the B&W CDM 9NT speaker set for L/C/R. I have the B&W CCM 818's in ceiling speakers for my side and rear surrounds.


1. Do I set the front sub to 0 and the back sub to 180 for phase alignment?

2. What do I set the crossover frequency to on the subs based on the speakers I have?

3. I assume my surrounds are direct and not dipole right?


What is the purpose of the Perfect Bass Kit which I also have. Do I run that before running ARC or does ARC pretty much do what the PBK kit does. If I run the PBK kit first, what are the steps for that. First time I'm running two subs so not sure what I should do differently, if anything?


Appreciate any input as always.


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24407338
> 
> 
> I'm about to run ARC. It's been a while since I last ran it but just need to confirm steps:
> 
> 
> Is 3.09 or 3.10 the desired D2v 3D firmware level?
> 
> 
> 1. Reset unit to Factory Defaults
> 
> 2 . Set speaker distances manually using tape measure from each speaker to main listening position.
> 
> 3. Set test level to 75 dB and sub to 75 dB using the volume knob on the back of the sub.
> 
> 4. Zero out every speaker level and sub by setting each value to zero. Here, I do not want to go to each speaker and manually calibrate each speakers test tone to 75db. I only want to manually set the sub's speaker level to 75db's with its volume knob. In other words, I leave every speaker level at zero and let ARC set that. I just set the test tone to 75db's using my SPL and the sub to 75db's using its volume knob and my SPL?
> 
> 5. Run ARC
> 
> 
> I have two paradigm sub 15's. One is at the front and the other is at the back. I have the B&W CDM 9NT speaker set for L/C/R. I have the B&W CCM 818's in ceiling speakers for my side and rear surrounds.
> 
> 
> 1. Do I set the front sub to 0 and the back sub to 180 for phase alignment?
> 
> 2. What do I set the crossover frequency to on the subs based on the speakers I have?
> 
> 3. I assume my surrounds are direct and not dipole right?
> 
> 
> What is the purpose of the Perfect Bass Kit which I also have. Do I run that before running ARC or does ARC pretty much do what the PBK kit does. If I run the PBK kit first, what are the steps for that. First time I'm running two subs so not sure what I should do differently, if anything?
> 
> 
> Appreciate any input as always.


 

MStanic ...i'll give your questions a try:

 

1.     3.10 for D2v 3D

 

2.     For Sub phase alignment, set 1st sub to zero while varying the phase of the 2nd sub until you get a peak in the SPL level when both subs are running using pink noise. Remember to find a way to prevent other speakers from  playing this noise. Subs should be the only ones in play. You can also use the method in my signature as an alternative option.

 

3. ARC sets the xover for your subs.

 

4. Your surrounds are Direct and not Dipoles.

 

5.  PBK is like mini ARC for the subwoofers. First perform the sib calibration using PBK and THEN do ARC afterwards. It will make ARCs job easier when EQ'ing the subs. Imagine is as having 2 EQ systems in play.  A fine one (PBK) to do the harder part and then a coarse one (ARC) to clean-up whatever PBK 'failed' to do.

 

6.  As for ARC calibration do NOT reset your unit to Factory defaults. This is mainly done during firmware uploads.

7.  Measure speaker distances as needed.

8.  Set Test Level of left speaker to 75dB by adjusting volume setting in Anthem Menu(not sure what its called).

9.  Set both subs to 72-73dB. The combined response will be around 75dB.

10.  I personally zero out the speaker levels but not sure if tha's necessary.

 

Have fun with ARC,

 

 

David


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24407338
> 
> 
> I'm about to run ARC. It's been a while since I last ran it but just need to confirm steps:
> 
> 
> Is 3.09 or 3.10 the desired D2v 3D firmware level?
> 
> 
> 1. Reset unit to Factory Defaults
> 
> 2 . Set speaker distances manually using tape measure from each speaker to main listening position.
> 
> 3. Set test level to 75 dB and sub to 75 dB using the volume knob on the back of the sub.
> 
> 4. Zero out every speaker level and sub by setting each value to zero. Here, I do not want to go to each speaker and manually calibrate each speakers test tone to 75db. I only want to manually set the sub's speaker level to 75db's with its volume knob. In other words, I leave every speaker level at zero and let ARC set that. I just set the test tone to 75db's using my SPL and the sub to 75db's using its volume knob and my SPL?
> 
> 5. Run ARC
> 
> 
> I have two paradigm sub 15's. One is at the front and the other is at the back. I have the B&W CDM 9NT speaker set for L/C/R. I have the B&W CCM 818's in ceiling speakers for my side and rear surrounds.
> 
> 
> 1. Do I set the front sub to 0 and the back sub to 180 for phase alignment?
> 
> 2. What do I set the crossover frequency to on the subs based on the speakers I have?
> 
> 3. I assume my surrounds are direct and not dipole right?
> 
> 
> What is the purpose of the Perfect Bass Kit which I also have. Do I run that before running ARC or does ARC pretty much do what the PBK kit does. If I run the PBK kit first, what are the steps for that. First time I'm running two subs so not sure what I should do differently, if anything?
> 
> 
> Appreciate any input as always.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24407702
> 
> 
> MStanic ...i'll give your questions a try:
> 
> 
> 1.     3.10 for D2v 3D
> 
> 
> 2.     For Sub phase alignment, set 1st sub to zero while varying the phase of the 2nd sub until you get a peak in the SPL level when both subs are running using pink noise. Remember to find a way to prevent other speakers from  playing this noise. Subs should be the only ones in play. You can also use the method in my signature as an alternative option.
> 
> 
> 3. ARC sets the xover for your subs.
> 
> 
> 4. Your surrounds are Direct and not Dipoles.
> 
> 
> 5.  PBK is like mini ARC for the subwoofers. First perform the sib calibration using PBK and THEN do ARC afterwards. It will make ARCs job easier when EQ'ing the subs. Imagine is as having 2 EQ systems in play.  A fine one (PBK) to do the harder part and then a coarse one (ARC) to clean-up whatever PBK 'failed' to do.
> 
> 
> 6.  As for ARC calibration do NOT reset your unit to Factory defaults. This is mainly done during firmware uploads.
> 
> 7.  Measure speaker distances as needed.
> 
> 8.  Set Test Level of left speaker to 75dB by adjusting volume setting in Anthem Menu(not sure what its called).
> 
> 9.  Set both subs to 72-73dB. The combined response will be around 75dB.
> 
> 10.  I personally zero out the speaker levels but not sure if tha's necessary.
> 
> 
> Have fun with ARC,
> 
> 
> 
> David



Excellent response to the questions.

One question you omitted was where to set the sub crossover.

On each sub set the crossover to bypass or the highest crossover setting available.


Stew


----------



## dmusoke


Yes, you're right about the sub question ...

 

I misunderstood his question about the sub. I thought he was asking how to determine the xover frequency and my response was that ARC will do that for you, which didn't answer his question







.


----------



## p.las

Why is DTS 24/96 so low?


Also on the testdisc from AIX the the DTS 96khz is way to low


----------



## gjwAudio

*D2 Does Not Recognize 4.0 (Lf-Rf+Ls-Rs) PCM over HDMI*


Hi All


I've been lurking this thread for about 6 months (ever since obtaining an original D2 in stunning condition), and must say a huge *Thank You* to everyone for making it such an incredible resource of knowledge, help and trouble-shooting advice for the Anthem-newbie.


I've been able to update the FW (v1.33), configure the many, many audio & video options, and get reasonable results from ARC-ing my room. Without the many Guides & Tips, this would have been next to impossible. Thank you soooo much.


I am de-cloaking today, to ask about a curious audio problem - namely, the D2 is not accepting four-channel PCM audio over the HDMI inputs. I have a large collection of 70's Quadraphonic releases, and hope to migrate from disc-based playback to a fie server model.


Multi-channel FLAC playback is via xbmc, running on an Intel NUC > HDMI > D2. xbmc is recognizing input and formatting output appropriately (debug log excerpt):
Code:


Code:


[CODE]DEBUG: CAESinkALSA::GetChannelLayout - Input Channel Count: 4 Output Channel Count: 4
DEBUG: CAESinkALSA::GetChannelLayout - Requested Layout: FL,FR,BL,BR
DEBUG: CAESinkALSA::GetChannelLayout - Got Layout: FL,FR,BL,BR
DEBUG: CActiveAESink::OpenSink - ALSA Initialized:
DEBUG:   Output Device : HDA Intel PCH
DEBUG:   Sample Rate   : 48000
DEBUG:   Sample Format : AE_FMT_S32NE
DEBUG:   Channel Count : 4
DEBUG:   Channel Layout: FL,FR,BL,BR

[/CODE]


Curiously. odd-numbered MCH-FLACs play "correctly"... both 3.0 and 5.0 files get formatted as 5.1 PCM > HDMI, and map to the correct speaker locations. The D2 identifies the input stream as 5.1 PCM (L/ C/ R/ LFE/ LS/ RS). Six channel files behave as expected.


Sadly, 4.0 Quad - though sent as 4-ch-PCM - is only registering as 2.0 in the D2.


Is this a known bug in the FW ?


Thanks for any help, guidance and Elephant's Memory.


Cheers,

Grant


----------



## MStanic

Thanks for the responses folks.


dmusoke you wrote:

"2.For Sub phase alignment, set 1st sub to zero while varying the phase of the 2nd sub until you get a peak in the SPL level when both subs are running using pink noise. Remember to find a way to prevent other speakers from playing this noise. Subs should be the only ones in play. You can also use the method in my signature as an alternative option."



As per your response above "dmusoke", let's assume I set my front sub to zero. Now, I go to my rear sub and play with the phase alignment until my SPL shows a peak in level. Based on this, I have the following questions:


1 I guess it does not matter if I set the rear or front sub to zero and then adjust the phase alignment on the sub that I did not set to zero?


2. By pink noise, how do I send this noise to both subs at the same time by using the D2v's test tone? I believe the D2v only sends it to one sub at a time? If so, what do material do I use to produce this noise?


3. I assume the SPL, when adjusting phase alignment for the peak, should be at the main listening position which means I would need another person to be doing one of the tasks (adjusting at the sub or viewing the SPL meter for a peak/spike in decibel reading from the main listening position)?


4. By peak, you mean the reading suddenly goes up in decibels on the SPL?


5. Would I do this after setting the sub's to distance and volume level to 75db's each or before?


6. How do I find the alternate step in you signature to doing this?


Much appreciated.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gjwAudio*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24410408
> 
> *D2 Does Not Recognize 4.0 (Lf-Rf+Ls-Rs) PCM over HDMI*
> 
> 
> Hi All
> 
> 
> I've been lurking this thread for about 6 months (ever since obtaining an original D2 in stunning condition), and must say a huge *Thank You* to everyone for making it such an incredible resource of knowledge, help and trouble-shooting advice for the Anthem-newbie.
> 
> 
> I've been able to update the FW (v1.33), configure the many, many audio & video options, and get reasonable results from ARC-ing my room. Without the many Guides & Tips, this would have been next to impossible. Thank you soooo much.
> 
> 
> I am de-cloaking today, to ask about a curious audio problem - namely, the D2 is not accepting four-channel PCM audio over the HDMI inputs. I have a large collection of 70's Quadraphonic releases, and hope to migrate from disc-based playback to a fie server model.
> 
> 
> Multi-channel FLAC playback is via xbmc, running on an Intel NUC > HDMI > D2. xbmc is recognizing input and formatting output appropriately (debug log excerpt):
> Code:
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [CODE]DEBUG: CAESinkALSA::GetChannelLayout - Input Channel Count: 4 Output Channel Count: 4
> DEBUG: CAESinkALSA::GetChannelLayout - Requested Layout: FL,FR,BL,BR
> DEBUG: CAESinkALSA::GetChannelLayout - Got Layout: FL,FR,BL,BR
> DEBUG: CActiveAESink::OpenSink - ALSA Initialized:
> DEBUG:   Output Device : HDA Intel PCH
> DEBUG:   Sample Rate   : 48000
> DEBUG:   Sample Format : AE_FMT_S32NE
> DEBUG:   Channel Count : 4
> DEBUG:   Channel Layout: FL,FR,BL,BR
> 
> [/CODE]
> 
> 
> Curiously. odd-numbered MCH-FLACs play "correctly"... both 3.0 and 5.0 files get formatted as 5.1 PCM > HDMI, and map to the correct speaker locations. The D2 identifies the input stream as 5.1 PCM (L/ C/ R/ LFE/ LS/ RS). Six channel files behave as expected.
> 
> 
> Sadly, 4.0 Quad - though sent as 4-ch-PCM - is only registering as 2.0 in the D2.
> 
> 
> Is this a known bug in the FW ?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help, guidance and Elephant's Memory.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Grant


The Quad symptoms ring a distant note of familiarity have you searched the thread? Do you have a 7.1 system? I note the debug says BL and BR and not LS/RS. Maybe Bob will be along with his photographic memory.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24412903
> 
> 
> Thanks for the responses folks.
> 
> 
> dmusoke you wrote:
> 
> "2.For Sub phase alignment, set 1st sub to zero while varying the phase of the 2nd sub until you get a peak in the SPL level when both subs are running using pink noise. Remember to find a way to prevent other speakers from playing this noise. Subs should be the only ones in play. You can also use the method in my signature as an alternative option."
> 
> 
> 
> As per your response above "dmusoke", let's assume I set my front sub to zero. Now, I go to my rear sub and play with the phase alignment until my SPL shows a peak in level. Based on this, I have the following questions:
> 
> 
> 1 I guess it does not matter if I set the rear or front sub to zero and then adjust the phase alignment on the sub that I did not set to zero?
> 
> 
> 2. By pink noise, how do I send this noise to both subs at the same time by using the D2v's test tone? I believe the D2v only sends it to one sub at a time? If so, what do material do I use to produce this noise?
> 
> 
> 3. I assume the SPL, when adjusting phase alignment for the peak, should be at the main listening position which means I would need another person to be doing one of the tasks (adjusting at the sub or viewing the SPL meter for a peak/spike in decibel reading from the main listening position)?
> 
> 
> 4. By peak, you mean the reading suddenly goes up in decibels on the SPL?
> 
> 
> 5. Would I do this after setting the sub's to distance and volume level to 75db's each or before?
> 
> 
> 6. How do I find the alternate step in you signature to doing this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much appreciated.



" dmusoke ". Hope you don't mind if I jump in

David correct me if I am wrong



Question #1 Does not matter as you are phase matching both subs and should expect equal output from each after phase matching


Question #2 : You could use the inter station FM noise on the FM or the audio on an audio test disk.

To prevent noise or other influences I would turn off the amps to any speakers other than the Subs while phase matching


Question #3 : Yes, that would make it easier or put your SPL meter on a tripod or somewhere where you can see it


Question #4 : You are using Slow and C Weighted on your SPL meter. You are looking for the steadiest highest reading


Question #5 : Depends. If matching to your main speakers . See the directions below in dmusoke's Phase Matching instructions.

If just matching the subs to each just set the volume levels on each sub to be equal before using the phase control


Question #6: From Dmusoke signature

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/31380#post_19542630


----------



## dmusoke


Couldn't have said it better indeed Stew







!

 

Now, the odd ball is #1. In theory, it doesn't matter which sub you set to zero and which one to adjust the phase. It really shouldn't... but in my case, i tried it both ways and the result were not identical. In one case, i'd turn the phase knob 90 degrees to get maximum SPL. In the alternate case, using the other sub, the best knob position would be closer to 120 degrees. Why??? I dunno but maybe it had something to do with my room dimensions and the various pieces of furniture in my living room.

 

Either way, try both ways as the process is rather quick.

 

I also amended my procedure slightly by telling users to first make sure that the phase knobs(if they exist) of their subs are set to 0 degrees.


----------



## gjwAudio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obie_fl*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24413138
> 
> 
> The Quad symptoms ring a distant note of familiarity have you searched the thread? Do you have a 7.1 system? I note the debug says BL and BR and not LS/RS. Maybe Bob will be along with his photographic memory.



Hi Tom


Hmmm... good memory you have - searching this thread for "quadraphonic" yields some hits from the 2011/2012 days. Not hopeful at all. That info suggests "Too, Bad, So Sad", and nothing to be done about fixing the D2.(see here )


I placed a call to Anthem support this afternoon - Andrew says Nick is out of the office this week, and he would have the definitive answer. Hope Springs Eternal.


BTW, no 7.1 channels here, just the standard 5.1 layout. And... the BL/BR - LS/RS label thing is a red herring; "normal" L/C/R/Ls/Rs/LFE PCM audio gets through and finds its way to the correct speakers.


Thanks for answering,

Grant


----------



## yacht422

Walt here with a Darbee /\ D2 issue.

First, i've been in contact with them, and they finally sent me a new unit, which also is failing.

Here is my question: Is there a known failure issue between the Darbee and D2 in THIS CASE ONLY: Musical Concert Blu Ray disks.

The Darbee works 100% with satellite and all movies on disk.

BUT, DVD concerts, Blu Ray or not, classical or popular, fail in this manner: The concert opens, runs for 30 seconds, goes through a 'reboot' for 10 seconds, runs for 30 seconds, and continues ad naseum.

I've moved the Darbee in the chain per their recommendation, bought a new six foot HDMI cable, all to no avail.

They are stumped, as am I.

This forum has the most well versed minds in the game, so although technically not an Anthem issue(or maybe it is?), I ask for your wisdom.

Many thanks

Walt


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gjwAudio*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24415439
> 
> 
> Hi Tom
> 
> 
> Hmmm... good memory you have - searching this thread for "quadraphonic" yields some hits from the 2011/2012 days. Not hopeful at all. That info suggests "Too, Bad, So Sad", and nothing to be done about fixing the D2.(see here )
> 
> 
> I placed a call to Anthem support this afternoon - Andrew says Nick is out of the office this week, and he would have the definitive answer. Hope Springs Eternal.
> 
> 
> BTW, no 7.1 channels here, just the standard 5.1 layout. And... the BL/BR - LS/RS label thing is a red herring; "normal" L/C/R/Ls/Rs/LFE PCM audio gets through and finds its way to the correct speakers.
> 
> 
> Thanks for answering,
> 
> Grant



Have you considered.

Instead of using HDMI from your NUC Player. Use the Quadraphonic player's 4 channel analog outputs into the D2's multichannel inputs and use analog Direct to play them back.

Should sound pristine


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24416136
> 
> 
> Walt here with a Darbee /\ D2 issue.
> 
> First, i've been in contact with them, and they finally sent me a new unit, which also is failing.
> 
> Here is my question: Is there a known failure issue between the Darbee and D2 in THIS CASE ONLY: Musical Concert Blu Ray disks.
> 
> The Darbee works 100% with satellite and all movies on disk.
> 
> BUT, DVD concerts, Blu Ray or not, classical or popular, fail in this manner: The concert opens, runs for 30 seconds, goes through a 'reboot' for 10 seconds, runs for 30 seconds, and continues ad naseum.
> 
> I've moved the Darbee in the chain per their recommendation, bought a new six foot HDMI cable, all to no avail.
> 
> They are stumped, as am I.
> 
> This forum has the most well versed minds in the game, so although technically not an Anthem issue(or maybe it is?), I ask for your wisdom.
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> Walt




Read you your rights and No taking the 5th


Questions for you Walt


Which item reboots ? Or are you saying it restarts the disk. Are you saying that only the BDs restart or does that includie DVD disks and only concert disks continuously restart.

What is the playing device for the disks.

Are you playing disks or rips ?

Have you checked the FPS of the disk player output.

Some BDs are 23.976, and there are some that are 29.97 or 59.94i.

Check the FPS frame rate as it has bad effects on the output on some concert disks


----------



## yacht422




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24416435
> 
> 
> Read you your rights and No taking the 5th
> 
> 
> Questions for you Walt
> 
> 
> Which item reboots ? Or are you saying it restarts the disk. Are you saying that only the BDs restart or does that includie DVD disks and only concert disks continuously restart.
> the disk interrupts itself, goes to static, then resumes 'in chronological order, and interrupts to static, then resumes on and on.
> 
> What is the playing device for the disks
> oppo 93.
> 
> Are you playing disks or rips ?
> all store bought originals
> 
> Have you checked the FPS of the disk player output.
> how?
> 
> Some BDs are 23.976, and there are some that are 29.97 or 59.94i.
> 
> Check the FPS frame rate as it has bad effects on the output on some concert disks


cannot find that info on the disk or jacket.

walt


----------



## yacht422

reference trouble disks include Roy Orbison 'Black and White'.

all the San Francisco 'Keeping Score' disks, etc.

however, Moulin Rouge, which is basically a musical plays just fine.

walt


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24416435
> 
> 
> Read you your rights and No taking the 5th
> 
> 
> Questions for you Walt
> 
> 
> Which item reboots ? Or are you saying it restarts the disk. Are you saying that only the BDs restart or does that includie DVD disks and only concert disks continuously restart.
> 
> What is the playing device for the disks.
> 
> Are you playing disks or rips ?
> 
> Have you checked the FPS of the disk player output.
> 
> Some BDs are 23.976, and there are some that are 29.97 or 59.94i.
> 
> Check the FPS frame rate as it has bad effects on the output on some concert disks





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24417471
> 
> cannot find that info on the disk or jacket.
> 
> walt




Suggestions


The Roy Orbison disc is in 1080i. Not sure if this has any bearing on your problem.

Also this may be a source of the trouble with the HDMI handshake.

http://watershade.net/wmcclain/BDP-93-faq.html#is-dvd-24hz-conversion-supported 


Read it carefully. Maybe try changing the setup in the BDP-93


----------



## yacht422

Stew:

many thanks for the help.

so far, no good results.

walt


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yacht422*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24418294
> 
> 
> Stew:
> 
> many thanks for the help.
> 
> so far, no good results.
> 
> walt



Walt


You changed the OPPO BDP-93 from AUTO on the frame rate set up to a manually selected rate ?


----------



## yacht422

yes, and then nothing worked.

really confused, however, tonight is 'movie night', and guests are coming in, so I disconnected the thing!

need a fully operational system, dont'ja know*







winking

walt


----------



## gjwAudio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24416306
> 
> 
> Have you considered.
> 
> Instead of using HDMI from your NUC Player. Use the Quadraphonic player's 4 channel analog outputs into the D2's multichannel inputs and use analog Direct to play them back.
> 
> Should sound pristine



@thestewman


Thanks for the suggestion. While this _is_ a workaround of sorts, it leads back to 1990's technology (ie: burning & spinning discs). I wish to go forward with the file server model for digital media (music & video), and avoid digging through mountains of cases to find something to play.

_Hardware:_

My "player" is the venerable Oppo DV-980H, and has been used via the D2's "6-Ch S/E" as you suggest, but the Old Girl is getting a little tired in the transport, and I don't want to hasten her demise playing music all day long (...and I'm not ready to buy a current Oppo).


Regarding "Analog Direct"... the benefit of ARC-ing my room is an obvious winner, so if the D2 is going to digitize all signals anyway, I prefer to skip the D-to-A-back-to-D stages, if at all possible.

_Musicware:_

The Quads are from the 4-channel enthusiast community, decoded from their various formats (discreet & matrixed tape and LPs) and authored as audio-only DVD's. Releases come as ISO images (shared freely, at no cost); there's a DVD-Audio layer plus a DVD-Video layer, so as to exclude nobody from enjoying these treasures. I have burned and enjoyed selected titles, but recoil at the prospect of making the 200+ collection into Oppo-ready DVDs.


Using vlc on my desktop, I can mount the DVD-V layer and stream dts or DD to the D2 over S/PDIF. This is convenient, but restricts me to the compressed versions of the music - however it was the best compromise in the days of my AVM-2.


Much better would be listening to the uncompressed DVD-A version... so by "simply" extracting from ISO image to multi-channel FLAC files, and sending MCH-PCM > HDMI into the D2, I could be in pig-heaven without the time and trouble of DVD blanks.

_Into The Future..._

Running xbmc as an appliance on the little NUC gets me off the desktop (reducing power line & RF garbage in the room), and provides a great library interface for all my media. Perfect !!... except for 4.0 going into the D2










I hope Nick has a better answer next week than "Too Bad, So Sad". In the meantime, I have a question in to the xbmc development team about forcing a 5.1 channel output when 4.0 input is present.


Thanks for playing...


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gjwAudio*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480#post_24418807
> 
> 
> @thestewman
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. While this _is_ a workaround of sorts, it leads back to 1990's technology (ie: burning & spinning discs). I wish to go forward with the file server model for digital media (music & video), and avoid digging through mountains of cases to find something to play.
> 
> _Hardware:_
> 
> My "player" is the venerable Oppo DV-980H, and has been used via the D2's "6-Ch S/E" as you suggest, but the Old Girl is getting a little tired in the transport, and I don't want to hasten her demise playing music all day long (...and I'm not ready to buy a current Oppo).
> 
> 
> Regarding "Analog Direct"... the benefit of ARC-ing my room is an obvious winner, so if the D2 is going to digitize all signals anyway, I prefer to skip the D-to-A-back-to-D stages, if at all possible.
> 
> _Musicware:_
> 
> The Quads are from the 4-channel enthusiast community, decoded from their various formats (discreet & matrixed tape and LPs) and authored as audio-only DVD's. Releases come as ISO images (shared freely, at no cost); there's a DVD-Audio layer plus a DVD-Video layer, so as to exclude nobody from enjoying these treasures. I have burned and enjoyed selected titles, but recoil at the prospect of making the 200+ collection into Oppo-ready DVDs.
> 
> 
> Using vlc on my desktop, I can mount the DVD-V layer and stream dts or DD to the D2 over S/PDIF. This is convenient, but restricts me to the compressed versions of the music - however it was the best compromise in the days of my AVM-2.
> 
> 
> Much better would be listening to the uncompressed DVD-A version... so by "simply" extracting from ISO image to multi-channel FLAC files, and sending MCH-PCM > HDMI into the D2, I could be in pig-heaven without the time and trouble of DVD blanks.
> 
> _Into The Future..._
> 
> Running xbmc as an appliance on the little NUC gets me off the desktop (reducing power line & RF garbage in the room), and provides a great library interface for all my media. Perfect !!... except for 4.0 going into the D2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope Nick has a better answer next week than "Too Bad, So Sad". In the meantime, I have a question in to the xbmc development team about forcing a 5.1 channel output when 4.0 input is present.
> 
> 
> Thanks for playing...



I know this is really in a completely different direction, but if you run XMBC on a Mac—specifically a Mac Mini you can use the HDMI outputs of the Mac Mini and specify multichannel 7.1 output at 24/96. Even if the Mini is only sending stereo—or in your case quad—the Anthem will still see it as a 7.1 signal. That's a work around too if you ever decide that's an option or just want to keep it in the back of your mind. You do need to go into the Mac's Audio Midi app in the Utilities folder to set that up. It's not the default behavior. Default is just stereo.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gjwAudio*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42450_50#post_24410408
> 
> *D2 Does Not Recognize 4.0 (Lf-Rf+Ls-Rs) PCM over HDMI*
> 
> 
> Hi All
> 
> 
> I've been lurking this thread for about 6 months (ever since obtaining an original D2 in stunning condition), and must say a huge *Thank You* to everyone for making it such an incredible resource of knowledge, help and trouble-shooting advice for the Anthem-newbie.
> 
> 
> I've been able to update the FW (v1.33), configure the many, many audio & video options, and get reasonable results from ARC-ing my room. Without the many Guides & Tips, this would have been next to impossible. Thank you soooo much.
> 
> 
> I am de-cloaking today, to ask about a curious audio problem - namely, the D2 is not accepting four-channel PCM audio over the HDMI inputs. I have a large collection of 70's Quadraphonic releases, and hope to migrate from disc-based playback to a fie server model.
> 
> 
> Multi-channel FLAC playback is via xbmc, running on an Intel NUC > HDMI > D2. xbmc is recognizing input and formatting output appropriately (debug log excerpt):
> Code:
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [CODE]DEBUG: CAESinkALSA::GetChannelLayout - Input Channel Count: 4 Output Channel Count: 4
> DEBUG: CAESinkALSA::GetChannelLayout - Requested Layout: FL,FR,BL,BR
> DEBUG: CAESinkALSA::GetChannelLayout - Got Layout: FL,FR,BL,BR
> DEBUG: CActiveAESink::OpenSink - ALSA Initialized:
> DEBUG:   Output Device : HDA Intel PCH
> DEBUG:   Sample Rate   : 48000
> DEBUG:   Sample Format : AE_FMT_S32NE
> DEBUG:   Channel Count : 4
> DEBUG:   Channel Layout: FL,FR,BL,BR
> 
> [/CODE]
> 
> 
> Curiously. odd-numbered MCH-FLACs play "correctly"... both 3.0 and 5.0 files get formatted as 5.1 PCM > HDMI, and map to the correct speaker locations. The D2 identifies the input stream as 5.1 PCM (L/ C/ R/ LFE/ LS/ RS). Six channel files behave as expected.
> 
> 
> Sadly, 4.0 Quad - though sent as 4-ch-PCM - is only registering as 2.0 in the D2.
> 
> 
> Is this a known bug in the FW ?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help, guidance and Elephant's Memory.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Grant


I had complained to anthem already once that I could play my Pink Floyd Dark Side of the Moon DVD-Audio, but there was not enough quadraphonic disc around to make it a serious problem for them.

And I don't know of any commercial new release that is only quad.


----------



## runninkyle17

I know it has been a while since I last posted about the D2v problems I have been having. There was an issue with the D2v 3D not playing proper 7.1 audio from my HTPC. I have chalked that up to a faulty video board. A replacement board is enroute I am told. However, a new problem has arisen. Now it seems I am having HDMI handshake issues.


I will be changing some of the settings in the video configuration (the color output to 4:4:4 and changing the output to 8-bit). I guess the question is, why is this happening now? It was working perfectly and then just started going bad. I have firmware 3.09H installed, but I have had that installed for weeks without issue and then all of the sudden these random handshake issues. I am also going to try and switch back to an old firmware, probably 2.11x or something, but is that okay to re-install an old 2.x firmware even with the 3D board upgrade?


I am a bit frustrated TBH. I guess in the end I may have to buy new HDMI cables, but it is rather random that this is all happening now when it was working perfectly for weeks without issue.


EDIT: Well it looks like resetting to factory defaults and completely reconfiguring all the video settings have fixed the issue. Set the output to 8-bit and YBrCr 4:4:4. So far no video going out for the past few hours and switching sources is working as it should. My daughter is insanely happy because now she gets to watch Despicable Me 2 straight through without the video going out


----------



## fuzzybk

To all fellow AVM 50v owners. Has the low volume on power up been fixed? I am currently running official firmware 3.09 and am still having this issue occasionally.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42510#post_24425934
> 
> 
> To all fellow AVM 50v owners. Has the low volume on power up been fixed? I am currently running official firmware 3.09 and am still having this issue occasionally.



Yes it has. I'm now on 3.10 but haven't had the issue since the firmware fix a few versions ago.


I do suggest contacting support. It shouldn't be happening.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fuzzybk*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42510#post_24425934
> 
> 
> To all fellow AVM 50v owners. Has the low volume on power up been fixed? I am currently running official firmware 3.09 and am still having this issue occasionally.



You need the 3.09c or later release specifically. 3.09c is the release that fixed the low volume issue and it was a beta release. There were subsequent versions (3.09f-3.09j betas). These were all rolled into the 3.10 public/production release.


All you need to do is download the latest public build (3.10) and that will fix the issue for you.


----------



## AVfile

They say 3.10 is only for units with the 3D board. If you don't have 3D then you need the 3.09c+ beta software.


I don't know why Anthem doesn't make an official release with these fixes for non-3D hardware.


CHANGE LIST


v3.09j beta


1. Fixed serial control issue where Zone 2 had no audio if powering on to tuner.

2. Fixed AVM 50v issue where noise was present when playing 176.4 kHz source.



v3.09h release candidate:


1. When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source was playing, a surround upmix mode couldn't be selected - fixed.

2. False "No Input Signal" status info when receiving 2-channel input - fixed.

3. "Last Used" mode preset reverted to "None" under certain conditions - fixed.

4. Previous DTS changes now certified.



v3.09f beta:


1. Output channel count was displayed incorrectly when 6-ch analog input was selected - fixed.

2. Further DTS-required changes.


Known issue: When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source is selected, a surround upmix mode can't be selected.



v3.09c beta:


1. Fixed bug where AVM 50v sometimes powered on with low volume.

2. DTS-required changes for pending certification. Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements.


----------



## Texas steve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42480_40#post_24428758
> 
> 
> They say 3.10 is only for units with the 3D board. If you don't have 3D then you need the 3.09c+ beta software.
> 
> 
> I don't know why Anthem doesn't make an official release with these fixes for non-3D hardware.
> 
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v3.09j beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed serial control issue where Zone 2 had no audio if powering on to tuner.
> 
> 2. Fixed AVM 50v issue where noise was present when playing 176.4 kHz source.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09h release candidate:
> 
> 
> 1. When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source was playing, a surround upmix mode couldn't be selected - fixed.
> 
> 2. False "No Input Signal" status info when receiving 2-channel input - fixed.
> 
> 3. "Last Used" mode preset reverted to "None" under certain conditions - fixed.
> 
> 4. Previous DTS changes now certified.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Output channel count was displayed incorrectly when 6-ch analog input was selected - fixed.
> 
> 2. Further DTS-required changes.
> 
> 
> Known issue: When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source is selected, a surround upmix mode can't be selected.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed bug where AVM 50v sometimes powered on with low volume.
> 
> 2. DTS-required changes for pending certification. Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements.


Also note that for 3.09J+ on Dolby 5.1 no surround is present


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42510#post_24428758
> 
> 
> They say 3.10 is only for units with the 3D board. If you don't have 3D then you need the 3.09c+ beta software.
> 
> *I don't know why Anthem doesn't make an official release with these fixes for non-3D hardware.*
> 
> .



That makes two of us. When I talked to Anthem tech they didn't seem to be that interested in a fix for the non 3-D units.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42510#post_24429376
> 
> 
> 
> Also note that for 3.09J+ on Dolby 5.1 no surround is present



And yet there are none of the working 3.09x betas on the password protected page. The only way to get one is through a helpful person on this thread.


Wouldn't it make more sense to make a v3.10 firmware for the non 3-D AVM50 and D2v units??

In case anyone from Anthem is reading this thread, that was a rhetorical question.


I will be writing an e-mail to Anthem tech asking for an official, working firmware for the non 3-D units. Again.

I suggest others here who would like a working firmware also write/call Anthem tech. Maybe if they hear it from enough of us they will get to work on a fix. Perhaps the squeaky wheel will get some oil.


Tom


----------



## RobertR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42510#post_24430891
> 
> 
> That makes two of us. When I talked to Anthem tech they didn't seem to be that interested in a fix for the non 3-D units.
> 
> And yet there are none of the working 3.09x betas on the password protected page. The only way to get one is through a helpful person on this thread.
> 
> 
> Wouldn't it make more sense to make a v3.10 firmware for the non 3-D AVM50 and D2v units??
> 
> In case anyone from Anthem is reading this thread, that was a rhetorical question.
> 
> 
> I will be writing an e-mail to Anthem tech asking for an official, working firmware for the non 3-D units. Again.
> 
> I suggest others here who would like a working firmware also write/call Anthem tech. Maybe if they hear it from enough of us they will get to work on a fix. Perhaps the squeaky wheel will get some oil.
> 
> 
> Tom


This is unfortunate. It seems to be a different attitude from when I wasn't getting sound from the rears on DTS material. They worked hard to fix that.


----------



## agrsiv95

Received the Dr.HDMI and now I have to make sure the D2v is fully on before the PS3 or it will not sync. It is between the D2v and the projector and don't want to move it as the handshake is better with DirecTv. I'm just going to set a long delay for the PS3 to turn on and see how it goes.


A solid official firmware would also be great for resale as the D2v is catching some flak about the issues in other threads I've been reading while looking for other options.


----------



## Thxtheater

Well guys back to the deep color issue. I got four brand new monoprice Redmere cables today rated at 18gbps. Basically they support the HDMI 2.0 spec. I plugged in both 1 meter cables and guess what happens... Nothing. No signal at all when I'm in deep color.


Not only that but it now craps out all video on my Anthem. Switching to another source doesn't yield any video at all now. I need to reboot the Anthem to get video back. I feel like I'm déjà vu all over again changing HDMI cables like before only to find it es an EDID issue. I just cannot see how I can change out so many HDMI cables and still have issues. Something else has to be wacky. I can't imagine that I have 8 high speed cables that don't pass spec. Any other ideas on what might be the cause other than cables? I'm thinking of returning the Panasonic for an exchange.


----------



## Thxtheater

The plot thickens. I replaced my high speed HDMI with 18gbps brand new Redmere cables. I purchased four new cables. All four have made no difference whatsoever in the deep color situation. Now if I switch to Deep Color the signal goes black on my display and my Panasonic Plasma now says there is not signal. If I plug directly to the display I get a signal no problem. I turn off deep color, uh it back into the Anthem and then it works again.


I'm doing this all on HDMI 1 and haven't had a chance to try other HDMI ports to see if the behavior is the same. I'm also unsure at this point if there is another setting somewhere somehow causing the issue. Any further thoughts and suggestions? I sent Anthem a video of what happens to the Anthem display. It is unable to lock I to a video resolution or audio signal. It changed to different ones every 10-20 seconds.


I'm going to try returning the Panasonic before I'm past BestBuy's return window and get a new unit. So one else in the Panasonic Bluray forum has reported anything similar to this.


----------



## AVfile

Did you try both outputs on the player?

Same with Bypass video mode and normal video mode on the Anthem? Any video settings on AUTO?


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42510#post_24436199
> 
> 
> Did you try both outputs on the player?
> 
> Same with Bypass video mode and normal video mode on the Anthem? Any video settings on AUTO?


The Panasonic only has a single HDMI 1.4 output. What are the recommended settings in bypass mode you all are using?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42510#post_24436199
> 
> 
> Did you try both outputs on the player?
> 
> Same with Bypass video mode and normal video mode on the Anthem? Any video settings on AUTO?



Sorry I thought you had the BDT-500.


If using Through mode, none of the Anthem's video output settings are used. We usually leave the deep color off (8-bit) and make sure nothing is set to Auto, in the players or the Anthem.


For a while I used the Anthem's native format, Studio RGB. Resolution and frame rate were also explicitly set. This minimizes the handshake.


----------



## Texas steve


I had a somewhat similar problem, and it all got solved when I changed to a different HDMI input on the Anthem.   All worked fine, then I rebooted the antherm and went back to the orginal HDMI and it worked.


----------



## AVfile

Having a problem with DTS HDMA 2.0 disc "Frantic". There is no audio when bitstreaming. Anthem AVM50v3D (v3.10) sees it as HDMA 7.1 input and Status indicates L/R/Sub output is being attempted. I thought this was fixed long time ago, perhaps the bug was re-introduced?


It works when I switch to LPCM in the Oppo BDP-83.


It also works in my other system (Panny BDT-500 + Yamaha YSP-2200) bitstream.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Texas steve*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42510#post_24437793
> 
> 
> I had a somewhat similar problem, and it all got solved when I changed to a different HDMI input on the Anthem.   All worked fine, then I rebooted the antherm and went back to the orginal HDMI and it worked.



I was in the middle of configuring a different HDMI input for passthrough and, of course, the murphy's law of family obligations kicked, in. I need to figure out some time to do that 10 minute task.


In your case, did the port end up being bad? I'm playing on HDMI input 1.


----------



## Texas steve


Nope the HDMI port was fine. don't know why it did what it did, but it did!!  Did I say that?!!


----------



## fuzzybk

Thanks for all the help guys regarding the low volume on power up issue on my AVM50v. I will be contacting Anthem support for firmware 3.09c or later.


----------



## berkesnd

Hi All,

Just recently installed a new AVM50v 3d (upgrading from a 700). The setup went well, video looks terrific, and sound for movies excellent. However,

I want to trim the HF EQ in in the Source Menu for a noisy source but neither the HF or LF settings seem to work., I have checked all the other inputs into the unit and

none of them work. This particular input is set to "dig optical 3". I know that I can use the front panel eq but it is universal and not all sources warrant a change in EQ.

I probably am over-looking something, so If anyone has a clue as to what the problem is I would greatly appreciate the help.


----------



## berkesnd

Re previous post,


It is working; it appears that the EQ change is more subtle than I expected. Thanks


----------



## MStanic

Speaker Distances:


In measuring the speaker distances, before running ARC, what distance do you place for the subwoofer entry. I have two subs that are at different distances from the main listening position. One is at the front of the room so it's further away (about 12 feet) and the other is at the back of the room so it's closer (about 7 feet). Which distance should I use? I assume each distance is measured from the speaker(s) to the main listening position but not sure which distance to take for the subwoofer entry.


I took the longer distance (12ft) for the subwoofer and ran ARC. These are my charts:

One.JPG 236k .JPG file
Two.JPG 236k .JPG file


----------



## obie_fl

Ah the bane of the D2... it is only 7.One. I would do basically what you did. You want to get the the subs in phase with your mains up front so I would tweak the distance until I had max output when playing through the center and subs. I would try to use the phase control on the rear sub to get it in phase with the front sub. The tricky part is getting the subs in phase with each other. I finally gave up running my rear because no matter how much I adjust the phase it still cancels with my front stage. Easy to see with quick measure.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42510#post_24446016
> 
> 
> Speaker Distances:
> 
> 
> In measuring the speaker distances, before running ARC, what distance do you place for the subwoofer entry. I have two subs that are at different distances from the main listening position. One is at the front of the room so it's further away (about 12 feet) and the other is at the back of the room so it's closer (about 7 feet). Which distance should I use? I assume each distance is measured from the speaker(s) to the main listening position but not sure which distance to take for the subwoofer entry.
> 
> 
> I took the longer distance (12ft) for the subwoofer and ran ARC. These are my charts:
> 
> One.JPG 236k .JPG file
> Two.JPG 236k .JPG file



Subs are not localizable -- i.e., you don't hear the sound as coming from the direction of the Sub -- so "correct" distance is not needed for proper imaging in the sound field as it is with the main speakers.


But Sub Phase is a function of distance, and with multiple Subs you need to get Sub Phase correct for each before you Measure for ARC. That's because ARC hears the Subs playing together and their RELATIVE Phase alters the combined output. (With only ONE Sub you can correct it's Phase adjustment after the fact -- without invalidating your current ARC solution -- because ARC does NOT play the Sub and the Mains at the same time for Measurement. Getting Sub Phase correct will simply improve the quality of the ARC solution because it reduces cancellation between the Sub and the Mains. The procedure below can also be applied to adjust Phase for your one Sub, either before or after ARC setup.)


So with multiple Subs start by entering correct distance for all the main speakers and then use the average of the Sub distances for the single value available for Sub distance. The Average is recommended for this because it minimizes the difference from "correct" for each Sub, and thus the amount of Phase difference you might need.


Next, if your Subs have Polarity adjustments, set that according to the Rule of Thumb to use Normal for Subs positioned near the front of the room and Inverted for Subs positioned near the rear of the room. Polarity reverses the direction of cone motion, and if you think of a Sub in the rear as being rotated 180 degrees you'll see where the Rule of Thumb comes from. (Alternative, you can find the best Phase for each Sub tested with BOTH Polarity settings and then pick the resulting Polarity/Phase combo of the two which seems to work best.)


Next get your speakers in the ballpark for volume balance. If you've already done a prior ARC run then you can just use the trims it applied. Note that to achieve 75dB from a set of Subs you need to adjust each one to LESS than 75dB. For example, with two Subs the Rule of Thumb is to set each to 72dB, which will combine to be close to 75dB. (The math is logarithmic.) Power one Sub at a time and adjust its volume knob using the built-in test tones and an SPL (Sound Pressure Level) meter. The idea is to get a good match between mains and subs so you have a better chance of hearing the Phase effect. It wouldn't hurt to turn each Sub up to 75dB during the Phase check, but lower them again prior to doing the ARC Measurement pass so they are all contributing equally to the combined bass output, and the combined bass output is roughly 75dB.


With those preliminaries in place, if you have Phase control on each Sub, then power one Sub at a time and adjust each Sub to be in best Phase compared to the main speakers. Typically Left Front is used as the surrogate for all the Mains. There are Phase test tracks you can use on calibration discs for this, but the Anthem guys typically just use the FM tuner set to play the static between stations. Use Stereo Audio Mode for this (i.e., output is limited to LF/RF/Sub). If you don't already have a prior ARC solution (which establishes Crossovers), then set LF/RF manually to 80Hz Crossover, which is a decent "one size fits all" choice. The idea is that the Crossover will steer bass from that FM hiss to the Sub, and through the Crossover region (roughly 80 to 40Hz) the mains and the Sub will be playing the same content mixed together in varying proportion. It's the fact that they are playing the same stuff at the same time through the Crossover region that raises the prospect of "cancellation" if the Sub is not Phase matched to the mains.


So what you are listening for when adjusting Phase this way is the LEAST cancellation, which means the MOST bass component in that hiss. Since the hiss is not all bass, you need to listen closely, concentrating on the bass portion of it.


Sneak up on the correct Phase setting from both sides. You will find a fairly wide range of Phase where is is hard to detect the difference. If you end up with two different results sneaking up from both sides, then split the difference and use the Phase setting between them.


Rinse and repeat with each Sub in turn. When each Sub is in proper Phase with the mains, then they are also in proper Phase with each other. Remember you are using the Phase control on each Sub to do this.


If your Subs do NOT have Phase control then you can't get Phase truly adjusted, but you can still get closer by powering the set of Subs together and using the Phase adjustment in the Anthem itself to shift their combined Phase for better match against the mains. When you do your ARC Measurement, if you see dips in the combined Sub output, that may be due to the Subs not being matched in relative Phase to each other. Without individual Phase controls on each Sub, the workaround would have to be shifting a Sub's position. Use Quick Measure with one Sub powered at a time and compare against all Subs powered. Additional dips with all Subs powered would suggest cancellation between the Subs.


With Phase adjusted for each Sub, NOW you can go do your ARC Measurement pass knowing that ARC will hear the best possible combined output of your Subs and that the combined Sub output is also in Phase match with the mains.

--Bob


----------



## Kris Deering

Great post Bob but I will point out that it is technically impossible to phase a sub farther away from you than the mains using only a phase knob on a subwoofer. Phase can only make a sub farther away from you, not closer. You would actually need to cheat and make the processor think the mains are farther than they actually are (this is how processors actually work despite it looking like they don't). In this case it might actually be better to put the distance from the sub that is farther away from the listening position to the mains as the value in the Anthem. Check to see if this properly phased that sub to the mains (and fine tune as necessary) and then use the phase on the closer sub to match up with the other one. I haven't tried it this way myself but it should work. For more about what I'm talking about look here:

http://soundoctor.com/whitepapers/subs.htm 


Scroll down to the section about group delay and impulse timing (though the whole white paper is very good and educational) and you'll see what I'm talking about.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Of course that assumes that "equidistant" in a processor like the D2v really is putting out signals with the same timing on the Sub output as on the mains. The fact that LOTS of people get quality results putting in "real" distances would suggest Anthem has been cleverer than that.

--Bob


----------



## dreamhomecinema

I am using 7.2 channel which is 7 ATC power 350 watts PRO 110 SPEAKERS for front, saround and back, 2 Subwoofers PARADIGM SUB2 and paradigm sub 25 with ANTHEM D2V D3 processor i want some sugetions from AVS ANTHEM forum frends , i want my subs phase allighnments clarification which is that i make 85hz sine sweep to subwoofers individually 72 db, and combind both subs at 0 phase reciving 75 DB spl, and when using with front 3 speakers and 2 subs also giving db level also 75 db spl if i change phase from 0 to 180 it will going 85db spl but sound less punchy when using 180 phase please give some advice to me


----------



## gjwAudio

*Help from D2 Owners...*


Hi All,


This is a long shot, but here goes... Is there anyone among the group who

is/was an original D2 owner
upgraded to the v1.47f beta firmware
...and still has a copy of the associate change log ?


I've been sent the update program (EXE only) from Anthem Support, and I'm curious to know what specific fixes are listed - before blindly clobbering my v1.33.


Thanks for your help,

Grant


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ As I recall, V1.47f included some HDMI workarounds (timing adjustments) for certain problematic displays. Evidently that REDUCED HDMI robustness for more normal displays, so it was never advanced to Official status.

--Bob


----------



## gjwAudio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42540#post_24464800
> 
> 
> ^ As I recall, V1.47f included some HDMI workarounds (timing adjustments) for certain problematic displays. Evidently that REDUCED HDMI robustness for more normal displays, so it was never advanced to Official status.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks for the quick reply Bob. Hmmmm... sounds like my quest for 4.0/4.1 LPCM playback through the HDMI connection will remain _just a dream_ - unless you can tell me otherwise.


Cheers,

Grant


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gjwAudio*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42510#post_24463816
> 
> *Help from D2 Owners...*
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> This is a long shot, but here goes... Is there anyone among the group who
> 
> is/was an original D2 owner
> upgraded to the v1.47f beta firmware
> ...and still has a copy of the associate change log ?
> 
> 
> I've been sent the update program (EXE only) from Anthem Support, and I'm curious to know what specific fixes are listed - before blindly clobbering my v1.33.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> 
> Grant


Important if updating from software older than v1.29j - use Live Video Settings Editor to save your video processor settings on your PC before upgrading software and to reload them after the upgrade. The software upgrade sets video processor settings to factory defaults.



CHANGE LIST



v1.47f beta:



1. Fix for bug that prevented ARC from uploading.



v1.47c beta:



1. New HDMI code base.


2. Fix for AVM 50 DACs not muting while HDMI input has video without audio.


----------



## gjwAudio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42540#post_24465350
> 
> 
> Important if updating from software older than v1.29j - use Live Video Settings Editor to save your video processor settings on your PC before upgrading software and to reload them after the upgrade. The software upgrade sets video processor settings to factory defaults.
> 
> 
> 
> CHANGE LIST
> 
> 
> v1.47f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fix for bug that prevented ARC from uploading.
> 
> 
> 
> v1.47c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. New HDMI code base.
> 
> 
> 2. Fix for AVM 50 DACs not muting while HDMI input has video without audio.



Thanks for digging out the change list.


I was later sent a program called "Settings Backup v1.03.exe", with the advice it should save/restore all settings. Has this been your experience, or does the "LiveVideoSettingsEditor.exe" do a different set of parameters ?


Do I need to run both utilities to create a complete backup of the D2 ?


Thanks,

Grant


----------



## gjwAudio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42510#post_24419113
> 
> 
> I know this is really in a completely different direction, but if you run XMBC on a Mac—specifically a Mac Mini you can use the HDMI outputs of the Mac Mini and specify multichannel 7.1 output at 24/96. Even if the Mini is only sending stereo—or in your case quad—the Anthem will still see it as a 7.1 signal. That's a work around too if you ever decide that's an option or just want to keep it in the back of your mind. You do need to go into the Mac's Audio Midi app in the Utilities folder to set that up. It's not the default behavior. Default is just stereo.


@Thxtheater


Thanks for your suggestion. I've learned that the latest xbmc ActiveAE audio engine can be set for a fixed output configuration - similar to your Mac Mini idea - so I won't be heading off to the Apple Store anytime soon










Whilst the fixed-output kludge gets the four channels into the four corners of the room, it's not without other negative impacts. An "automatic" software workaround (...to the Anthem's shortcomings) may be possible. Anyone who's interested in the details, can follow the discussion beginning * here *.


If anyone reading this is in the same situation (ie: your 4-CH music won't play correctly via xbmc), I urge you to add your voice to the request in the xbmc forum. If there is enough call for it, the developers will consider adding a toggle switch to automatically select 5.1 output when 4.0/4.1 files are encountered.


Thanks for playing.


ps: based on this Faint Hope, and Bob's recollection of the beta FW for the D2, I think I'll stick with v1.33.


----------



## Nicoff

For those of you who own the Anthem D2/D2v AND the Oppo 105 player, which is the way to get best PQ:


1. Send Oppo video to the Anthem: Oppo ->Anthem D2/D2v -> projector


2. Bypass the Anthem. Send video from Oppo directly to projector.


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If you have a 3D Display and do NOT have the 3D upgrade for the D2v, then bypass the D2v (HDMI 1 from the OPPO direct to your Display for video, HDMI 2 from the OPPO to the Anthem for audio). Also, if you have the D2 and want to send Deep Color video to your Display then bypass the D2. (The D2v can handle Deep Color). Otherwise you can send 1080p/24 or 1080p/60 video through the Anthem without compromise, and might as well do so as then you can see the on-screen displays from the Anthem (e.g., Volume) on your Display as well.

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

Thank you Bob!!!


----------



## MStanic

Any issues with D2v 3D and 3.10 with respect to bitstreaming DTS HDMA and Dolby True HD. All day today I was messing around with MPCHC and FFDSHOW and the D2v would not play the 7.1 track or 5.1 HDMA track. When trying to play a DTS HDMA or Dolby True HD track, it would just toggle between one of those two and plain 2.0 but no sound. I gave up after tons of attempts but now neither of my BluRay players will play these tracks either. I've been messing around with my HTPC and MPCHC for the last week but not the D2v settings at all in an attempt to get the right audio track from my HTPC. This was all working fine with 3.09 so I'm leary the firmware update has a bug? My BluRay players are on HDMI 1 and 2 while my HTPC is on HDMI 6. Just odd that now the D2v doesn't play the right track. I tried just powering it off/on but the same where no sound when hitting play on either BluRay player with two different discs. Just yesterday, I was watching a BluRay player with no issues. Right now, I got the movie going using Netflix with 2.0 for audio. Any ideas?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Try this: Select a lossy Bitstream track (traditional DD or DTS) then re-select the lossless DTS-HD MA or Dolby TrueHD Bitstream track while the content continues playing. If that works then please pass on details of your configuration to Anthem so they can look at this as a bug. Be sure to let them know what audio format you were sending to the Anthem *PRIOR TO* trying to send the lossless Bitstream when it failed, as well as details of your HDMI setup (connections, resolution, Deep Color settings) both for input to the Anthem and Output. Since you have the 3D upgrade, it's also important to tell them if you are using the new 1-4 inputs or the older 5-8 inputs.


When playing a disc, you can often select a lossy track by picking an alternate language or Commentary track using the audio selection button on your player's remote. Then select the original, lossless Bitstream track again.

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

Thanks Bob.


Here is my situation in more detail:


HDMI1: Sony BluRay player is connected here. Will not output audio when on the lossless track. When the lossy track is playing, straight DD or DTS for trailers, etc., it works okay. As soon as I hit play and when it should pick up the lossless track it just plays with no audio. Funny though, I will skip to the next chapter and I may here music on the scene but then it goes away and no audio again.


HDMI2: Panasonic dual HDMI. Does the same here as my Sony above.


HDMI3: Apple TV. Play okay but it's all lossy audio here from Apple content. No lossless being played.


HDMI4: Cogeco TV...same as my Apple TV...ok with lossy and 2 channel stuff.


HDMI6: HTPC (MPCHC and FFDSHOW.....will not play lossless...just lossy tracks or 2 channel stereo).


HDMI8: WD Live TV (gets weird here because this box will play the full lossless and lossy tracks with no problem. They are the same MKV files (from MAKEMKV) that I try and play from my HTPC which does not pick up the lossless tracks, only lossy.


All of this worked with 3.09 well. I upgraded to 3.10 about two weeks ago and I guess I just got around to really listening to my stuff because I've been so focused on getting my HTPC to work and mainly just watch Cable and Apple that I did not realize the D2v is probably the culprit for not picking up the lossless tracks. But because my WD Live TV picks up the lossless tracks okay, it never dawned on me that the D2v might just be the issue especially now that both my BluRay players can't seem to play lossless.


I tried resetting to factory defaults and then restoring my user settings but the same. I called Anthem support and explained the above:


They said to change the Auto Dig setting to NO from YES (in source setup of ALL components). I believe mine are all set to YES. Not sure if this will make a difference.


Then, they said to reload the update for firmware 3.10 and see if that fixes my issues.


What about the "Video Out Config" "Through" mode..does this have an bearing on playing the lossless tracks?


This unit was upgraded by Anthem to 3D over 1 year now (don't even remember when) but it's been working without any issues.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Try the test I described above. Play a LOSSY Bitstream immediately prior to trying to play a lossless Bitstream. (NO intervening LPCM audio.)

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

Bob, will do. Just at work now but anxious to get home and troubleshoot. Will let you know.


In a sense though, have I not already done that but with my HTPC instead of the Bluray player(s) as I can select the lossy track and it plays. I go back to the lossless track and it does not play.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Watch the front panel on the Anthem. Your HTPC may be transitioning through an LPCM format between the two Bitstreams.

--Bob


----------



## MStanic

Let me first downgrade my issues as it does seem like the D2v is working correctly.


I pressed the panic button I guess because both my Sony BDP S780 & Panny DMP BDT310 would not play lossless audio on two Bluray discs (Vicky Cristina Barcelona & Volver).


Setting the Auto Dig from Yes to No had no effect on any source. They continued to play or not play as in my two BluRay players not appearing to play lossless audio.


On my Panny, I remembered that I bought this to play 3D before my D2v was upgraded. Therefore, I had my settings on the Panny Bluray to still split audio/video between the two HDMI ports but I had only one HDMI now connected from my Panny to the D2v. Fixed that issue and Vicky Cristina Barcelona played okay.


On my Sony, however, this disc will not play the dialogue. If I skip chapters, it plays the music and background noise but no audio whatsoever. This disc apparently had a 7.1 3 channel lossless track and very dialogue intensive. I'm bitstreaming from my Sony to the D2v so not sure why it will not play this disc's audio properly. I can play Transformers okay in full 7.1.


My HTPC, however, remains a mystery. This was working without a hitch on 3.09 but now I can't get FFDSHOW to play the lossless track. I simply get no audio. If I switch to the lossy track or the BluRay MKV rip just has a lossy track, it plays it okay. The FFDSHOW Audio icon shows a 7.1 signal being bitstreamed but nada on the D2v. I'm using it with MPCHC and have FFDSHOW's Audio Decoder set to Preferred for External Decoders. I've messed around so much with checking and unchecking the Internal Filter and Source filters in MPCHC but I really don't know what I'm doing with most of these settings. I have uninstalled/reinstalled both FFDSHOW & MPCHC but no dice. I have a Radeon 7970 with the latest AMD drivers. Any ideas?


Sorry about the earlier commotion and pressing the panic button so quickly but I was stumped last night with a household totally dejected that we could not watch these movies.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42540#post_24495076
> 
> 
> On my Sony, however, this disc will not play the dialogue. If I skip chapters, it plays the music and background noise but no



I had a similar problem just after hooking up my PVR. I tried to watch a movie but there was no center channel, no matter how many settings I changed and power cycling the system. I suspected the amp so I started swapping cables and it suddenly started working. In the end nothing was physically changed, so it is still a mystery and I wouldn't be surprised if it happens again.


----------



## mos6581

Some years ago there was a lot of discussion regarding the DTS-HD MA decoding bug for the D2v. Fronts needed to be adjusted +3dB and the center channel needed to be adjusted -3dB for 5.1 tracks.

Was this bug ever sorted out in any firmware update and was this bug also present on the AVM50v?

I've just (almost) finished rebuilding my home theater and are about to start fine tuning the preamp and ARC settings on my AVM50v to the new room and speakers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It is certainly fixed in the v3.10 for the 3D upgraded units. I don't recall off hand which firmware had the fix for the non-3D upgraded units.

--Bob


----------



## mos6581

If I download the latest non 3D firmware (3.09) I should be OK, and don't have to consider the volume trims?

I can't find any info in the firmware change log about this bug, but it might have been fixed together with the DTS MA sourround position mapping.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mos6581*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42540#post_24503010
> 
> 
> If I download the latest non 3D firmware (3.09) I should be OK, and don't have to consider the volume trims?
> 
> I can't find any info in the firmware change log about this bug, but it might have been fixed together with the DTS MA sourround position mapping.



mos6581,

Please contact Anthem technical support and ask them your questions.

When I asked them if they were working on a firmware for the non-3D D2v's that included the fixes that were done in the official 3.10 3D firmware they were rather vague. They did offer to send me the 3.09j beta. They said, "This would be the best option as of right now."

I asked them if 3.09j had the DD5.1 bug (no sound to surrounds) that was present in the 3.10 firmware. ( Anthem had originally released v3.10 for all D2v's, 3D or not, but after it was found to have the DD5.1 bug for non-3D models they took it off their official website and replaced it with v3.09 for non-3D models.) I could not get a straight answer from them.

Perhaps you can.


I would still like to know:

- Are they working on an official v3.10 firmware for non-3D models?

- Are they going to put back any of the 3.09x beta firmwares on the password protected site? Specifically 3.09g/h which seem to not have the DD5.1 missing surround speaker problem that was on later betas and v3.10, but some of the improvements since the official v3.09.

- Is v3.09j a newer beta that has corrected the DD5.1 bug ?

- Is the official v3.09 on their website one of the 3.09x beta's or just the previously released official version.


Nick, if you are out there, please let us know.

If anyone has an inside line to Nick (Bob? Anyone else?), please ask him and let us know.


Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Texas steve


Tom, as you know Im one of the ones that has the non 3D D2V and am running  (H or J), don't recall as I lost the surrounds with 3.10 .   I too would like to know the answers.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mos6581*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42540#post_24503010
> 
> 
> If I download the latest non 3D firmware (3.09) I should be OK, and don't have to consider the volume trims?
> 
> I can't find any info in the firmware change log about this bug, but it might have been fixed together with the DTS MA sourround position mapping.



Yes, the DTS center channel level was fixed long before 3.09. More like 2.12 or so.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42540#post_24505674
> 
> 
> Yes, the DTS center channel level was fixed long before 3.09. More like 2.12 or so.


Not as I recall.

I believe 3.09 disabled the DTS-HDMA remapping feature completely, which was a temporary fix but rendered the D2v not compliant with the DTS standards.

3.09h or j onwards included a DTS certified fix for remapping and enabled the feature.


Basically the last official 3.09 release for non 3D units does not comply with DTS standards. Personally this is the firmware I'm running as I prefer to load only official releases, so I'd also really like to have an official 3.10 for my non 3D D2v.........hopefully it also fixes the audio dropouts I've been living with, rather annoying.


Cheers


----------



## MACCA350

Oh, and it wasn't the center channel as I recall, it was the front left and right channel being reduced by -3dB due to the remapping of side surrounds into those channels. Although the fix iirc was to increase "fronts" by +3dB and reduce "center" by -3dB so the end result was just increasing the front left and right channels by +3dB and the center channel stayed at the same level.


Cheers


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42540#post_24506212
> 
> 
> Oh, and it wasn't the center channel as I recall, it was the front left and right channel being reduced by -3dB due to the remapping of side surrounds into those channels. Although the fix iirc was to increase "fronts" by +3dB and reduce "center" by -3dB so the end result was just increasing the front left and right channels by +3dB and the center channel stayed at the same level.
> 
> 
> Cheers



You are confusing two separate DTS issues. The first one was more obvious, and I recall you had it documented well in a nice table. After it was fixed (2+ years ago) the levels all measured properly.


The second resulted in a shift in the rear sound stage towards the front that was much harder to detect. This was fixed more recently.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42540#post_24506884
> 
> 
> You are confusing two separate DTS issues. The first one was more obvious, and I recall you had it documented well in a nice table. After it was fixed (2+ years ago) the levels all measured properly.
> 
> 
> The second resulted in a shift in the rear sound stage towards the front that was much harder to detect. This was fixed more recently.


Pretty sure they were one in the same. The -3dB volume drop on the front left and right channels was due to the remapping feature which was mixing the side channels into those front channels.


It's a common practice when mixing channels to drop the levels by 3dB prior to mixing so any phase correlated signals don't clip when mixed.


Cheers


----------



## Thxtheater

Some odd behavior for feedback: I returned the Panasonic 3D bluray player and purchased a new Sony 3D bluray player. I get basically the same identical non functional behavior.


When I turn the Bluray player on, I get no picture and no signal through the Anthem to my display. Switching HDMI cables produces no difference. Turning Deep Color off finally yields a picture with no issue.


Now the really odd thing: I switched from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 and I got a picture (with HDMI 1 I got no picture) but I got drops. My OSD on the anthem jumps between 2205p to 3D. After about 3 minutes of this, the 3D bluray locked in and started playing without issue. No audio or video drops. Nothing. I didn't watch the movie (Gravity) in its entirety. But I find this behavior odd. I am using HDMI PORTS 2-4 and 5.


I'm going to try the other HDMI ports and see of there is any different behavior.


At the end of the day, I understand that switching to 8bit (turning deep color off) fixes the issue. I also realize that there is no Blu-ray material in deep color. My quest is really to find out if I'm having an issue with the Anthem that is perhaps subtle.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42540#post_24515710
> 
> 
> Some odd behavior for feedback: I returned the Panasonic 3D bluray player and purchased a new Sony 3D bluray player. I get basically the same identical non functional behavior.
> 
> 
> When I turn the Bluray player on, I get no picture and no signal through the Anthem to my display. Switching HDMI cables produces no difference. Turning Deep Color off finally yields a picture with no issue.
> 
> 
> Now the really odd thing: I switched from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 and I got a picture (with HDMI 1 I got no picture) but I got drops. My OSD on the anthem jumps between 2205p to 3D. After about 3 minutes of this, the 3D bluray locked in and started playing without issue. No audio or video drops. Nothing. I didn't watch the movie (Gravity) in its entirety. But I find this behavior odd. I am using HDMI PORTS 2-4 and 5.
> 
> 
> I'm going to try the other HDMI ports and see of there is any different behavior.
> 
> 
> At the end of the day, I understand that switching to 8bit (turning deep color off) fixes the issue. I also realize that there is no Blu-ray material in deep color. My quest is really to find out if I'm having an issue with the Anthem that is perhaps subtle.




I have to ask as you did not state if you were using Pass Through for your setup on the HDMI port you were using for 3D ?

Who did the 3D upgrade ? Or did you purchase a D2v 3D assembled at the factory ?

You might have a badly seated #1 - 4 HDMI board.

Anthem has a precise procedure for installing that board and then fastening it to the unit so it is not physically distorted and seated properly.


----------



## Thxtheater

No problem on the questions. Yes it is set to pass through. And my board is an upgrade and passed firmware updates. Subsequent to the 3D Upgrade I iad to send it up to Anthem for an unrelated fix and it passed all benchmarks before coming back. Anthem upgraded my firmware to 3.10. I'd assume if there was an issue they would have caught it during factory diagnostics when it was in Canada last year.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ How long are your HDMI cable runs from source to Anthem and Anthem to Display? Do you have anything other than a single length of cable in either run? I.e., HDMI switch, wall plates, gizmo like Darbee Darblet, ANYTHNIG?


The symptoms you describe are consistent with HDMI cabling that can't handle the bandwidth. When you set to THROUGH mode for 3D, the handshake operates differently (it's more like the source talking directly to the Display through the Anthem) which may explain why this is only happening for your 3D viewing. Turning off Deep Color reduces the bandwidth on the HDMI cables.

--Bob


----------



## runninkyle17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42510#post_24421214
> 
> 
> I know it has been a while since I last posted about the D2v problems I have been having. There was an issue with the D2v 3D not playing proper 7.1 audio from my HTPC. I have chalked that up to a faulty video board. A replacement board is enroute I am told. However, a new problem has arisen. Now it seems I am having HDMI handshake issues.
> 
> 
> I will be changing some of the settings in the video configuration (the color output to 4:4:4 and changing the output to 8-bit). I guess the question is, why is this happening now? It was working perfectly and then just started going bad. I have firmware 3.09H installed, but I have had that installed for weeks without issue and then all of the sudden these random handshake issues. I am also going to try and switch back to an old firmware, probably 2.11x or something, but is that okay to re-install an old 2.x firmware even with the 3D board upgrade?
> 
> 
> I am a bit frustrated TBH. I guess in the end I may have to buy new HDMI cables, but it is rather random that this is all happening now when it was working perfectly for weeks without issue.
> 
> 
> EDIT: Well it looks like resetting to factory defaults and completely reconfiguring all the video settings have fixed the issue. Set the output to 8-bit and YBrCr 4:4:4. So far no video going out for the past few hours and switching sources is working as it should. My daughter is insanely happy because now she gets to watch Despicable Me 2 straight through without the video going out



Well it looks like this problem has crept up again. I am getting really frustrated. It seems to be a video switching issue with the D2v. I did a test with my cable box and set it to output only 720p video, that seemed to fix it, but it is still very annoying that the D2v will now recognize 1080i properly. Or at least that seems to be what is happening. Did the 3D board really cause all these problems? If so, Anthem needs to get their crap together because I really have mainstream components and I am tired of having all these issues.


I will be honest, I am almost to the point of selling the D2v and buying the new Emotiva pre-pro, at least then I know I will get better CS.


----------



## Thxtheater

Hi Bob,


I'm really careful about trying to have a controlled debugging environment when having an issue. In this case everything is a home run as follows:


Bluray to Anthem direct. I've tried 3, 6, and 8 foot high speed cables.


Anthem direct to Panasonic ZT60 Plasma with a 20 foot Redmere cable. I also ordered and used a brand new 15 foot Redmere 18gbps cable. Thus, end to end, only the anthem is between the bluray and the ZT60.


This is incredibly frustrating for me but I'm willing to be methodical and try and do what's what to get it figured out. The Anthem should obviously handle this without issue. But if it isn't then I may have a symptom of a deeper issue. I still need to test performance and behavior on ports 3 and 4. I just haven't had a breath to switch the source settings. If I can do so tonight I will.


Bob, anytime you give attention to a post, it's appreciated. I'm sure some of this can seem mundane. But I'm really perplexed on this.


----------



## Brian Stone

I'm having an issue with my AVM 50v since I upgraded to firmware version 3.09. If I switch from a HD channel to a SD channel, either live or recorded, I lose the sound. If I switch to a different input on the AVM50v and back, the autio comes back but the video is pink. Powering the TV on and off restores the video. I'm using a DirecTV Genie box as input. Any ideas why this might be happening?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The Shocking Pink video is due to a handshake failure -- confusion as to whether YCbCr or RGB data format is in use (if the error goes the other way then then video is Ghastly Green). The usual fix is to make sure your Source output and Anthem output are both set to an explicit data format (usually YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of AUTO to simplify the handshake. The audio issue is tougher, so I'd suggest you tackle the video first and see if cleaning up that handshake also fixes the audio.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

THXTHEATER,

I don't have any additional suggestions for you besides what you already have on your list to try. Keep in mind that even high quality cable can exhibit problems if, for example, your particular cable has a poorer mechanical fit of plug in socket.


Just to state the obvious, remember that the Redmere cables are directional. You have to plug them in the right way around.

--Bob


----------



## Brian Stone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42570#post_24522450
> 
> 
> ^ The Shocking Pink video is due to a handshake failure -- confusion as to whether YCbCr or RGB data format is in use (if the error goes the other way then then video is Ghastly Green). The usual fix is to make sure your Source output and Anthem output are both set to an explicit data format (usually YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of AUTO to simplify the handshake. The audio issue is tougher, so I'd suggest you tackle the video first and see if cleaning up that handshake also fixes the audio.
> 
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. The audio is the bigger issue issue and it seems to have something to do with switching from a Dolby Digital HD broadcast to a PCM SD broadcast. If I switch from any HD channel with DD to any SD channel with PCM, I have no audio. At that point, when I go back and forth between the same 2 channels, there is no sound on the SD PCM channel. If I switch to a different DD HD channel and then back to the original PCM SD channel, the audio comes back.


----------



## joblain

I have many questions before buying a used anthem d2v or D2 with ARC and need help.


My main priority is Blu-ray movies sound quality. Don't care about 3D and I like to listen 2 channels classic music sometime. I would like to know if there is a difference in sound with the d2v vs D2, Bitstream or PCM with my oppo bdp-83 and high end format dts-hd master and Dolby true hd.


My system...

- Pioneer elite 141fd

- ascend sierra tower in front

- ascend sierra 1 for back

- svs pb13 ultra

- gik acoustics panels with bass traps

- oppo bdp 83

- emotiva xpa-5 amp


I would like to get the D2v over the avm50v because of the good reviews of the upsampling 24/192kh but never had the chance to experience the difference.


Any thoughts on this I will appreciate.

Thanks


Edit: I know d2 doesn't have 36 bit deep color but I don't use it anyway with my elite, I set the color space setting recommend by DNICE, 4:2:2.


----------



## RobDec

Hello


Starting to research the AVM50v3D.


At this point I have several questions:


1) Does it have HDMI switching?

2) How soon before this unit is replaced?

3)How user friendly is the OSD?

4)Does it do 7.1 processing, DD True 7.1 and DTS HD MA 7.1? or only 5.1?

Thank you


Rob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobDec*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42570#post_24535048
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> Starting to research the AVM50v3D.
> 
> 
> At this point I have several questions:
> 
> 
> 1) Does it have HDMI switching?
> 
> 2) How soon before this unit is replaced?
> 
> 3)How user friendly is the OSD?
> 
> 4)Does it do 7.1 processing, DD True 7.1 and DTS HD MA 7.1? or only 5.1?
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> Rob



Rob, I'll let others chime in too but to answer your questions:


1) yes it does plus dual HDMI outputs

2) unknown; if and when it is replaced the major difference you will likely see is UHD scaling and some sort of HDMI 2.0 support.

3) very friendly and lots of power and configuration options

4) yes indeed, will also process 5.1 signals to 7.1 and has some of the best room correction in the industry.


----------



## AVfile

3. The OSD (video status overlay) is nice, but in 3D (passthru mode) you don't get it. As for the SETUP menu, it looks like a 1990's VCR style plain text interface. Nothing fancy but it is very comprehensive.


Some of the remote controls such as having to hold the menu button for several seconds to bring up SETUP, or "7" to bring up the video processor menu are laughable. Also the remote feels cheap compared to the all-metal front panel buttons which are a joy to use.


----------



## billatlakegeorge

I had a problem with my D2v that required me to replace an HDMI cord to my display. In figuring this out, going in and out of setup, I lost my on screen info display. I can still get into an display setup but the info that is displayed while changing sources or volumes is gone.


I know it must be simple, but I'm a dummy. Please help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Make sure you are plugged into the upper HDMI output socket. Only that one has the on-screen displays.


If that's not it check Setup > Displays / Timeouts against the defaults shown in the picture in the Manual (section 3.12).

--Bob


----------



## billatlakegeorge

^ Bob after I read your post I new that was it. When testing HDMI cables I plugged the new good one into the lower socket.


You're invaluable to the avsforum.


Thanks


----------



## BrentTHX


Need some opinions on my 8 year old or so D2. Just in the process of upgrading house to complete control4 system and building a dedicated home theatre in the basement. My question is over the years the D2 has had hand shake problems with HDMI and seams to be getting worse. I'm told because of the ever changing world of HDMI that the Statement is out dated and just can't handle speed and tech of todays HDMI. This has been told to me by both dealers I'm looking at and they say it will drive me up the wall with how control4 works. As its not easy to cycle just D2 on/off using a control4 touch screen. And I have found thats only way to fix handshake problem. So my question is should I scrap D2 as my whole house head unit in favour of a new Receiver that can do way more? I love the audio side and surround of D2 but they are right video side is a Pain in the ass. I have been told to go to Pioneer sc79 or Marantz or Yamaha. 

 

Any help or insight? 

 

Note it does have update 1.33 in it.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BrentTHX*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42570#post_24542891
> 
> 
> Need some opinions on my 8 year old or so D2. Just in the process of upgrading house to complete control4 system and building a dedicated home theatre in the basement. My question is over the years the D2 has had hand shake problems with HDMI and seams to be getting worse. I'm told because of the ever changing world of HDMI that the Statement is out dated and just can't handle speed and tech of todays HDMI. This has been told to me by both dealers I'm looking at and they say it will drive me up the wall with how control4 works. As its not easy to cycle just D2 on/off using a control4 touch screen. And I have found thats only way to fix handshake problem. So my question is should I scrap D2 as my whole house head unit in favour of a new Receiver that can do way more? I love the audio side and surround of D2 but they are right video side is a Pain in the ass. I have been told to go to Pioneer sc79 or Marantz or Yamaha.
> 
> 
> Any help or insight?
> 
> 
> Note it does have update 1.33 in it.



Before you scrap your D2 you should try firmware v1.47f available on the Anthem Tech password protected page. Contact Anthem tech for the password, or they may just be able to email you the firmware.

Firmware v1.47f was made to fix handshake issues. I don't know if it will fix your problems, but it might be worth a try.

If the v1.47f doesn't work there is a product called 'Dr. HDMI' which some of the posters here use which may help. Someone here may be able to tell you more about that.


Speaking from personal experience, once you have gotten used to the audio quality of Anthem statement products you probably won't be satisfied with brands P, M or Y.


Are you using 'auto' settings in the D2 setup for video (color space, resolution, etc.) or in your source's setup?? Handshaking issues are often caused, or made worse, by using 'auto' in the video setup.


Just out of curiosity, do the dealers you mentioned happen to sell P, M and Y ?? I'm sure they would have no reason to want to sell you a new receiver









Just saying,


Tom


----------



## BrentTHX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42570#post_24543114
> 
> 
> 
> Before you scrap your D2 you should try firmware v1.47f available on the Anthem Tech password protected page. Contact Anthem tech for the password, or they may just be able to email you the firmware.
> 
> Firmware v1.47f was made to fix handshake issues. I don't know if it will fix your problems, but it might be worth a try.
> 
> If the v1.47f doesn't work there is a product called 'Dr. HDMI' which some of the posters here use which may help. Someone here may be able to tell you more about that.
> 
> 
> Speaking from personal experience, once you have gotten used to the audio quality of Anthem statement products you probably won't be satisfied with brands P, M or Y.
> 
> 
> Are you using 'auto' settings in the D2 setup for video (color space, resolution, etc.) or in your source's setup?? Handshaking issues are often caused, or made worse, by using 'auto' in the video setup.
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity, do the dealers you mentioned happen to sell P, M and Y ?? I'm sure they would have no reason to want to sell you a new receiver
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just saying,
> 
> 
> Tom


I will give the firmware update a try, I have tried auto and manual in the past. Right now I just have D2 set up in theatre area for music while building, so I can't even see if a firmware update will fix problem. May have to do update and play the wait and see game. The one dealer that said either M or Y is where I bought Anthem from and they still sell them. But say they have no real fixes for hand shake problems.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BrentTHX*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42570#post_24543630
> 
> 
> I will give the firmware update a try, I have tried auto and manual in the past. Right now I just have D2 set up in theatre area for music while building, so I can't even see if a firmware update will fix problem. May have to do update and play the wait and see game. The one dealer that said either M or Y is where I bought Anthem from and they still sell them. But say they have no real fixes for hand shake problems.



Consider getting a dedicated video processor like a Radiance 2021 and just use the D2 for audio. The Lumagen processors (for example) aren't cheap but neither is building a dedicated room with control4. They are well supported on the firmware side.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BrentTHX*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42570#post_24542891
> 
> 
> Need some opinions on my 8 year old or so D2. Just in the process of upgrading house to complete control4 system and building a dedicated home theatre in the basement. My question is over the years the D2 has had hand shake problems with HDMI and seams to be getting worse. I'm told because of the ever changing world of HDMI that the Statement is out dated and just can't handle speed and tech of todays HDMI. This has been told to me by both dealers I'm looking at and they say it will drive me up the wall with how control4 works. As its not easy to cycle just D2 on/off using a control4 touch screen. And I have found thats only way to fix handshake problem. So my question is should I scrap D2 as my whole house head unit in favour of a new Receiver that can do way more? I love the audio side and surround of D2 but they are right video side is a Pain in the ass. I have been told to go to Pioneer sc79 or Marantz or Yamaha.
> 
> 
> Any help or insight?
> 
> 
> Note it does have update 1.33 in it.



You should definitely try Dr. HDMI. it's fixed HDMI issues for me with my Anthem AVM50v in the mix. Whether you need just one between the D2 and display or more than one--between D2 and individual sources too--remains to be seen. For $99 you can't go wrong. It's the only thing that worked for me. I have so many HDMI cables now from debugging I'm going to setup shop as a mono price competitor










These links helped me:
http://www.pooraudiophile.com/2014/01/reporting-back-on-fixing-my-apple-tv.html 

And
http://www.pooraudiophile.com/2013/12/the-fix-for-appletv-hdmi-woes-and-hdmi.html?m=1


----------



## Thxtheater

Speaking of HDMI issues, I haven't had a chance to test out my other HDMI banks and after I do that I'm going to see if this is another EDID-related issue. I am of the opinion that I don't have an HDMI-cabling issue. Aside from the fact that I've changed cables several times, I came across this note from the HDMI licensing group:

_*Q. Can HDMI cables contribute to devices not working properly together?*

The vast majority of image quality or interoperability issues with HDMI devices are related to the software (firmware) used for device communication and content protection, and have nothing to do with the HDMI cable. In particular, these issues are often caused by the software related to HDCP handshaking, or from devices improperly handling the device capability information read through HDMI (e.g. the device has an incorrect EDID, or an inability to properly read an EDID). It is fairly uncommon for the cable to be the cause of HDMI compatibility problems. In fact, the robustness of the HDMI specification has been verified by the fact that we have not found a compliant HDMI cable that is the root cause of HDMI playback issues with compliant devices._


After I test out the banks, I'm also going to see about putting the HDMI doctor in the mix and see if that helps at all with the 3D Bluray situation.


----------



## Tim Winders

I had problems with my D2 correctly handshaking with my original AppleTV years ago. The AppleTV would constantly lose lock on the audio signal and I would get occasional distorted video. I contacted Anthem and got the link to the 1.47f firmware. That made a huge difference and I've been running that for 3 years now. That AppleTV has since been replaced by an AppleTV 2 and then an AppleTV 3. I've not had any HDMI handshaking issues with any other devices. I would strongly encourage anyone running the original D2 to install the 1.47f firmware.


----------



## BrentTHX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42570#post_24547294
> 
> 
> I had problems with my D2 correctly handshaking with my original AppleTV years ago. The AppleTV would constantly lose lock on the audio signal and I would get occasional distorted video. I contacted Anthem and got the link to the 1.47f firmware. That made a huge difference and I've been running that for 3 years now. That AppleTV has since been replaced by an AppleTV 2 and then an AppleTV 3. I've not had any HDMI handshaking issues with any other devices. I would strongly encourage anyone running the original D2 to install the 1.47f firmware.


I will contact Anthem tomorrow about getting firmware update. I have never had Audio handshake problem, have always been video. I get either a screen of snow or half screen snow and top half flashing image on and off with colors all screwed up.


----------



## Thxtheater

The 3D saga continues. This time, I have 3D and deep color working flawlessly. Why is it sufdenly working? Frankly I'm not 100% sure but let me report back:


First, I tried all 4 top ports with no significant luck. I did not change any HDMI cables as I'm convinced it's not a cable issue. I kept my 3 foot high speed from source to Anthem and the. 20 foot Redmere from anthem to source in place.


Secondly, I started manually setting/enforcing certain settings on the player from auto to set values. I forced color space to 4:2:2. I forced Deep Color to 16-bit. I forced output resolution to "original resolution". I had previously set screen size to 60" and TV type to 16:9 and kept those values.


I played some Avengers in 3D with no issues and likewise no issues with the main Sony 3D bluray menu.


I never used the Dr. HDMI between anything.


After all that I must say I'm incredibly perplexed as to why there were issues and suddenly there are not. Is the Anthem creating some sort of issue with the TV and player determining setting to negotiate a proper handshake? I just don't know. Well that's where it stands for now. I'm not inclined to fool around with the settings too much but it's working







anyone have any thoughts on this?


----------



## MStanic

So I'm able to get XBMC Gotham beta to bitstream my ripped MKV's it seems. However, what I don't understand is why the Anthem D2v 3D always says 7.1 PCM when I'm playing an HD audio ripped bluray. In particular, how does a 5.1 DTS HDMA track show up a 7.1 PCM? Previously, when I was using FFDSHOW and MPC-HC, I was getting DTS HDMA or Dolby True HD coming up on the D2v. Now, since I can only seem to get HD audio using beta XBMC, I am now getting 7.1 PCM for any HD audio track. Is this correct and am I really getting the HD audio track if my D2v isn't showing the lossless track properly on the display but 7.1 PCM instead? However, when I play Transformers in DTS HDMA, I am not getting sound in the rear surround speakers so I'm obviously not getting the full lossless track.


XBMC has an Audio Output Device setting and a Passthrough Device setting. I have WSAPI DEFAULT as the Audio Output device and D2v WSAPI as the Passthrough Device so I a assume this is correct. And I only get 7.1 PCM if the channels in XMBC audio settings is set for 7.1.


Any help/commnets is much appreciated.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MStanic*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42570#post_24548702
> 
> 
> So I'm able to get XBMC Gotham beta to bitstream my ripped MKV's it seems. However, what I don't understand is why the Anthem D2v 3D always says 7.1 PCM when I'm playing an HD audio ripped bluray. In particular, how does a 5.1 DTS HDMA track show up a 7.1 PCM? Previously, when I was using FFDSHOW and MPC-HC, I was getting DTS HDMA or Dolby True HD coming up on the D2v. Now, since I can only seem to get HD audio using beta XBMC, I am now getting 7.1 PCM for any HD audio track. Is this correct and am I really getting the HD audio track if my D2v isn't showing the lossless track properly on the display but 7.1 PCM instead? However, when I play Transformers in DTS HDMA, I am not getting sound in the rear surround speakers so I'm obviously not getting the full lossless track.
> 
> 
> Any help/commnets is much appreciated.



I'm going to stretch a bit out of my area of expertise on the ripped files. The obvious is that for the Anthem to show Dolby True HD, etc, my recollection is that this needs to be decoded in the Anthem and not in the player/source. If it's decoded in the player/source then it sends a PCM stream to the Anthem. Otherwise it's the original bitstream. My question is that if you're dealing with ripped content, are you sure that the audio isn't being converted to PCM when it's ripped?


When I'm sending audio from my Mac Mini via HDMI, it always shows 7.1 regardless of the source audio because I've configured it to send multichannel and not just stereo audio. I'm wondering what hardware you're using for your XBMC server. It may be the hardware/PC vs. the XBMC software.


----------



## MStanic

Thanks for the response.


I'm using an AMD 7970 with latest drivers over HDMI. I'm using Windows 8 64 bit running XBMC Gotham 32 bit. I know my Bluray MKV rips have the full lossless tracks because my WDTV plays the same files and the D2v shows Dolby True HD or DTS HDMA when they play. I just can't figure out why XBMC Gotham does not seem to send the bitstream in the same manner as the WDTV. I have tried all sorts of combinations for Audio Output and Audio Passthrough device but it does not change the 7.1PCM. I have tried changing Auto Dig from YES to NO and vice versa but does not make a difference. The source input audio, when pressing 7/On Screen on the D2v, shows 8.1 audio being sent but the surround rears are not engaged.


Thanks again.


----------



## gjwAudio

@MStanic


Have you combed the xbmc forums for similar problems/fixes ? I've been wading through endless posts (...still working on the Quad issue







), and many folks have wrestled with HD Audio passthru problems.


Unfortunately I don't have a Windows-specific thread to point to; using OpenELEC - a Linux deriviative - I've not focused on Windows details.


As you may be aware, the audio side of xbmc was completely rewritten for Gotham - ActiveAE - and if all else fails, you could raise your issue here -> * Testing audio engine ActiveAE *. You'll get a response from the devs who built ActiveAE.


Good Luck.


----------



## stanger89

FWIW, I've had good luck with OpeneELEC (both the stable and new Gotham betas) on my Intel HTPC.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42570#post_24548616
> 
> 
> Why is it sufdenly working?
> 
> 
> Secondly, I started manually setting/enforcing certain settings on the player from auto to set values. I forced color space to 4:2:2. I forced Deep Color to 16-bit.
> 
> 
> Is the Anthem creating some sort of issue with the TV and player determining setting to negotiate a proper handshake?



Yes, the first advice we gave was to use explicit HDMI settings and leave as little as possible to AUTO.


Also the slightest change in your power-up sequence or remote macro can affect the way the handshake goes.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42570#post_24555168
> 
> 
> Yes, the first advice we gave was to use explicit HDMI settings and leave as little as possible to AUTO.
> 
> 
> Also the slightest change in your power-up sequence or remote macro can affect the way the handshake goes.



And apparently good advice  oddly the Sony has more granular settings than the Panasonic. I'm going to try and see which setting may be causing the issue.


My primary concern here is that bandwidth requirements are going to simply be increasing over time and I don't want to replace my Anthem in the short term.


----------



## Thxtheater

Ok in my case the setting that is causing the issue is the HDMI color space. Setting it to "auto" causes my screen to go blank, get sparklies, etc. It's like there is an inability to negotiate a solid connection. Setting the color space to a manual setting such as 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 stops the anomaly completely.


Now here is where it gets interesting: If it set the color space to RGB then everything goes totally haywire. Ironically, if I set Deep Color output to auto I don't get any further issues so long as the HDMI color space is defined.


Is any of this ringing a note of concern? Is there perhaps another setting somewhere that may be causing a conflict? Is this exposing a firmware issue with the Anthem or anything I should be concerned with?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42570#post_24558154
> 
> 
> Ok in my case the setting that is causing the issue is the HDMI color space. Setting it to "auto" causes my screen to go blank, get sparklies, etc. It's like there is an inability to negotiate a solid connection. Setting the color space to a manual setting such as 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 stops the anomaly completely.
> 
> 
> Now here is where it gets interesting: If it set the color space to RGB then everything goes totally haywire. Ironically, if I set Deep Color output to auto I don't get any further issues so long as the HDMI color space is defined.
> 
> 
> Is any of this ringing a note of concern? Is there perhaps another setting somewhere that may be causing a conflict? Is this exposing a firmware issue with the Anthem or anything I should be concerned with?




Though the theory and the experts are correct and say different HDMI cables should not make a difference or be required if thay have the correct HDMI spec that theory ends with Deep Color.

Deep Color adds bandwidth requirements that escalate rapidly. This could be or may be a problem internally with many units ?


I would be aware that asking to process Deep Color may be causing some problems.


Also I believe it has been stated that no Blu Rays use Deep Color so why ask for problems trying to handle a process that is not there.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42600#post_24558238
> 
> 
> Though the theory and the experts are correct and say different HDMI cables should not make a difference or be required if thay have the correct HDMI spec that theory ends with Deep Color.
> 
> Deep Color adds bandwidth requirements that escalate rapidly. This could be or may be a problem internally with many units ?
> 
> 
> I would be aware that asking to process Deep Color may be causing some problems.
> 
> 
> Also I believe it has been stated that no Blu Rays use Deep Color so why ask for problems trying to handle a process that is not there.



Are you saying this could be an issue/problem with Anthem units internally? I wasn't clear from your post.


In my current test scenario, it's actually the HDMI color space—RGB—that causes the issue. If I set the color space to 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 then I have no problem.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42570#post_24558154
> 
> 
> Ok in my case the setting that is causing the issue is the HDMI color space. Setting it to "auto" causes my screen to go blank, get sparklies, etc. It's like there is an inability to negotiate a solid connection. Setting the color space to a manual setting such as 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 stops the anomaly completely.
> 
> 
> Is any of this ringing a note of concern? Is there perhaps another setting somewhere that may be causing a conflict? Is this exposing a firmware issue with the Anthem or anything I should be concerned with?



This just rang a distant bell for me. When I first got the Anthem I was using a Sony BDP and got a black screen when it was set to Auto. I tried to argue with Anthem tech support that the handshake should determine the correct setting but they said it was the display that gets to decide. I gave up on the Auto setting and took control of all my settings from then on. Incidentally, after several Sony and Anthem firmware updates the problem was gone, but I now use an Oppo player.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42600#post_24558340
> 
> 
> Are you saying this could be an issue/problem with Anthem units internally? I wasn't clear from your post.
> 
> 
> In my current test scenario, it's actually the HDMI color space—RGB—that causes the issue. If I set the color space to 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 then I have no problem.



The answer to your question is I don't know.

I read a lot of informative information about HDMI, HDMI cables. the differences between HDMI 1.3, 1.4a and 2.0 and they all said Deep Color increased the bandwidth required for the signal.

So the question you ask is not easily answered and I don't know the answer.


If a unit was originally designed for HDMI 1.0 and updated by firmware to 1.2, then 1.3 then 1.4a, could you surmise and I am not specifying the Anthem units. that the original design internally

does not have the bandwidth for Deep Color ?

In Anthem's case the D2v manual does say Deep Color is handled. Some assurance I guess.


----------



## Thxtheater

Let's forget deep color for a sec. It's not deep color at this point that is causing the issue. It's the color space.


My basic question is why RGB would cause problems along the HDMI chain but 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 would not.


Is there something particular to the Anthem that has potential issues with the RGB signal? Why would that specific setting cause fits?


----------



## Michael&Klipsch

Fist time post here be kind… so my question is rather simple. Im new to the Anthem D2v3d. My question is is there a way to limit the LFE content (not the bass redirected from crossovers on my mains) just the LFE content? My old receiver the Pioneer Elite SC-55 had a LFE attenuator. I have just installed my D2v paired with my Anthem A5 and A2. I haven’t run ARC yet but will be doing so this weekend. For the subwoofers I use four Klipsch KW-120 THX subs with 2 KA-1000 sub amplifiers, My subs are rated at 20-200hz and I have them all together and placed them placed side by side. Been reading and researching for a long time before I made the purchase on a Anthem D2v3d but have used and love anthem amps for a while (also use a P2 in my 2 channel setup). At reference volume by setting the attenuator on my old pioneer elite receiver I was never heard any distortion whatsoever from my subs and they were up pretty loud. I just want to make sure not to have any problems before using the d2v3d. Should I just run Arc and trust its results? Thanks in advanced.


----------



## stanger89

I'm not sure I follow, what exactly are you trying to accomplish? Or what problem are you trying to avoid?


----------



## Michael&Klipsch

Before starting use on the D2v wanted to make sure once arc is complete at high volumes there is distortion present in the four subs from LFE content. Bass has never been a problem but the lfe on my past subs (not these) would cause them to distort. Just curious if there is any lfe attenuation. I used to have my receiver at -5 to keep from some of the ultra low effects at high volumes from distorting the sub.


----------



## agrsiv95

Yes, there is a button by the volume knob to adjust lfe trims on the fly.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42600#post_24558611
> 
> 
> Let's forget deep color for a sec. It's not deep color at this point that is causing the issue. It's the color space.
> 
> 
> My basic question is why RGB would cause problems along the HDMI chain but 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 would not.
> 
> 
> Is there something particular to the Anthem that has potential issues with the RGB signal? Why would that specific setting cause fits?



Odds are the thing you are connecting to just isn't happy with an HDMI RGB handshake. Since Auto is also giving you problems it sounds like the response timing from the thing you are connecting to is slow


Try testing RGB at 480p output. 480p (not 480i) is the "simplest" HDMI signal. If that works, start going up in output resolution until you find where it doesn't work. Although cables and mechanical fit of plugs in sockets can cause handshake issues, just as many are caused by the chipsets not switching gears fast enough during the handshake. Early on, chipsets from different chip vendors frequently did not play well together for just this reason. In your case it could be some setting in the Display which is slowing down its ability to respond quickly enough during the handshake. What''s supposed to happen when the handshake fails is that this gets detected and a retry is initiated. The problem here is that the retry is not happening. I would tend to point the finger at the Display or the cables.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42600#post_24560418
> 
> 
> Odds are the thing you are connecting to just isn't happy with an HDMI RGB handshake. Since Auto is also giving you problems it sounds like the response timing from the thing you are connecting to is slow
> 
> 
> Try testing RGB at 480p output. 480p (not 480i) is the "simplest" HDMI signal. If that works, start going up in output resolution until you find where it doesn't work. Although cables and mechanical fit of plugs in sockets can cause handshake issues, just as many are caused by the chipsets not switching gears fast enough during the handshake. Early on, chipsets from different chip vendors frequently did not play well together for just this reason. In your case it could be some setting in the Display which is slowing down its ability to respond quickly enough during the handshake. What''s supposed to happen when the handshake fails is that this gets detected and a retry is initiated. The problem here is that the retry is not happening. I would tend to point the finger at the Display or the cables.
> 
> --Bob



Bob thanks for the response. I'll absolutely do that testing. I didn't think of doing that and that's an excellent point! Thanks a ton. I'll report back on my findings on that specifically in the hopes that if someone experiences a similar issue they will be able to go through these threads for reference.


I'm going to keep digging on this because I experienced a consistent problem across two different 3D Bluray players (although admittedly lower-end models). Both the Bluray players and display are 2013 models.


Just to ask the question: there's nothing in the Anthem that would be at fault?


My display is a brand new Panasonic ZT60 Plasma and I have the color set to Rec. 709.


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael&Klipsch*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42600#post_24560129
> 
> 
> Before starting use on the D2v wanted to make sure once arc is complete at high volumes there is distortion present in the four subs from LFE content. Bass has never been a problem but the lfe on my past subs (not these) would cause them to distort. Just curious if there is any lfe attenuation. I used to have my receiver at -5 to keep from some of the ultra low effects at high volumes from distorting the sub.



The second question is do you actually listen at reference level, I find that incredibly loud for home use (heck I find it a bit too loud at the theater too).


Regardless though, the ARC process will set the level trims for everything for you so you would have to run ARC first anyway. Also ARC will evaluate your sub's capabilities and apply a high pass filter which may help with distortion since it will reduce the output for frequencies your subs can't reproduce anyway.


----------



## Michael&Klipsch

Rarely listen at reference levels was just curios how it worked with arc. Excited to get it up and running though. It's been a long build


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42600#post_24560849
> 
> 
> Just to ask the question: there's nothing in the Anthem that would be at fault?
> 
> 
> My display is a brand new Panasonic ZT60 Plasma and I have the color set to Rec. 709.



There's not a simple answer to that. I use RGB out of my D2v and it works just fine, so it's not as if the D2v can't do RGB at all. However in the world of HDMI there's a question as to just how far one device should go in its programming to adjust to quirks in other devices. Anthem has done of a ton of adjustments like that over time.


My suspicion is that there is some combo of settings in the Pany which is screwing up its HDMI handshake timing, particularly for RGB, but proving that would require some quality time with an HDMI data capture device.


Of course whatever info you collect you should write up for Anthem Tech Support. Odds are they already have some history on file for that Display. I'll be surprised if the answer is that it NEVER works with RGB, but they may have some info on settings that make it handshake more poorly.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42600#post_24561169
> 
> 
> There's not a simple answer to that. I use RGB out of my D2v and it works just fine, so it's not as if the D2v can't do RGB at all. However in the world of HDMI there's a question as to just how far one device should go in its programming to adjust to quirks in other devices. Anthem has done of a ton of adjustments like that over time.
> 
> 
> My suspicion is that there is some combo of settings in the Pany which is screwing up its HDMI handshake timing, particularly for RGB, but proving that would require some quality time with an HDMI data capture device.
> 
> 
> Of course whatever info you collect you should write up for Anthem Tech Support. Odds are they already have some history on file for that Display. I'll be surprised if the answer is that it NEVER works with RGB, but they may have some info on settings that make it handshake more poorly.
> 
> --Bob



Perfect. Thanks for that good advice Bob. I want to capture as much factual data as I can with the complete signal chain and I'll communicate that up to Anthem.


One final question: in this particular case, I have the input set to passthrough; thus I'm assuming that the Anthem should not be doing anything between the source and display in that scenario. However, once I remove the Anthem from the equation everything, of course, works just dandy.


----------



## Thxtheater

Bob,


OK, here are the test results: All three of these must be true to get the problem: Forcing RGB, forcing 1080p, forcing 16 bit color. With these settings, I get sparklies and (sometimes) video drops. So, from the testing I did tonight, that's the toxic combination through my Anthem.


If I keep the HDMI forced to RGB and if I lower:
the video resolution to 1080i or lower, the sparklies immediately go away and problem disappears
the deep color to 12 bit or below, the sparklies disappear and the problem disappears.


That's where I stand for right now.


To summarize, this is with a Panasonic ZT60 plasma, Anthem AVM50v, and a Sony 5100 3D Blu-ray player. I had exactly the same problem with a Panasonic 3D Blu-ray player, which I returned. However, I did not do this much in-depth testing with the Panasonic other than to turn Deep Color on or off. The Panasonic did not have as many granular settings options as the Sony.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Wait, where are you getting a 16 bit deep color choice? The current generation of HDMI supports 8-bits per component (24 bits per pixel), 10 bits per component (30 bits per pixel), and 12 bits per component (36 bits per pixel).


The D2v only supports up to 36 bits per pixel.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42600#post_24566329
> 
> 
> ^ Wait, where are you getting a 16 bit deep color choice? The current generation of HDMI supports 8-bits per component (24 bits per pixel), 10 bits per component (30 bits per pixel), and 12 bits per component (36 bits per pixel).
> 
> 
> The D2v only supports up to 36 bits per pixel.
> 
> --Bob



My Sony 3D Blu-ray player has an option to output *AUTO* • *16 Bit* • *12 Bit* • *10 Bit* under the *DEEP COLOR* menu option.


----------



## Thxtheater

  


Here are the deep color options


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Good old Sony. Where they got that from is beyond me. The D2v can't handle 48 bits per pixel. The Sony is supposed to detect that during the handshake and reduce down to what the next device in the HDMI chain says it can support.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42600#post_24566465
> 
> 
> ^ Good old Sony. Where they got that from is beyond me. The D2v can't handle 48 bits per pixel. The Sony is supposed to detect that during the handshake and reduce down to what the next device in the HDMI chain says it can support.
> 
> --Bob



Now let me go one step further. Is it possible that the Panasonic Blu-ray did that too? And then the "auto" setting with Deep Color "ON" would have defaulted to 16-bit, RGB, 1080p (the toxic combo).


If I'm understanding you correctly, then the Anthem is the bottleneck in this specific scenario? And because the Anthem is in "Passthru" mode, the display and Blu-ray are (potentially) negotiating at the "toxic" three settings?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ That's possible. It would require that RGB is somehow breaking the portion of the handshake which limits the bits per pixel.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42600#post_24566495
> 
> 
> Now let me go one step further. Is it possible that the Panasonic Blu-ray did that too? And then the "auto" setting with Deep Color "ON" would have defaulted to 16-bit, RGB, 1080p (the toxic combo).
> 
> 
> If I'm understanding you correctly, then the Anthem is the bottleneck in this specific scenario? And because the Anthem is in "Passthru" mode, the display and Blu-ray are (potentially) negotiating at the "toxic" three settings?



The Anthem specs are only to 12 bit. Check the D2v manual.

The Anthem is not a bottleneck for Deep Color. I am currently getting 12 bit to my Sony 4K display which has HDMI 2.0 and could handle 16 bit.

Problem is Blu Ray is still at 8 bit and you maybe trying to send 16 bit from an 8 bit disk.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42600#post_24567002
> 
> 
> The Anthem specs are only to 12 bit. Check the D2v manual.
> 
> The Anthem is not a bottleneck for Deep Color. I am currently getting 12 bit to my Sony 4K display which has HDMI 2.0 and could handle 16 bit.
> 
> Problem is Blu Ray is still at 8 bit and you maybe trying to send 16 bit from an 8 bit disk.



I'm getting these anomalous behaviors from the setup menu with no disc playing and no disc inserted in the player. Weird.


----------



## stanger89

Again though, there's no point outputting above 8-bit from your Blu-ray player, Blu-ray is an 8-bit per channel format, you gain nothing by having the BDP "upconvert" to a higher bit depth, especially if it isn't doing any scaling or other video processing. More isn't always better.


10-12bit out of a video processor can have some benefit as it will be able to reduce rounding errors on the output side of the video processor.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ My guess is this is just a bug in the players that are trying to implement pseudo-HDMI 2.0 before it's "real" (a marketing stunt). They've broken backwards compatibility with HDMI 1.4. Why am I not surprised?


Set your Source devices to output no more than 12-bit (36 bits per pixel). If you can't *SEE* an improvement with 12-bit, turn their Deep Color OFF, as you'll get more reliable HDMI with the lower bandwidth video.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42600#post_24567484
> 
> 
> ^ My guess is this is just a bug in the players that are trying to implement pseudo-HDMI 2.0 before it's "real" (a marketing stunt). They've broken backwards compatibility with HDMI 1.4. Why am I not surprised?
> 
> 
> Set your Source devices to output no more than 12-bit (36 bits per pixel). If you can't *SEE* an improvement with 12-bit, turn their Deep Color OFF, as you'll get more reliable HDMI with the lower bandwidth video.
> 
> --Bob


^ +1


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42600#post_24567115
> 
> 
> I'm getting these anomalous behaviors from the setup menu with no disc playing and no disc inserted in the player. Weird.



Might be the HDMI or a player circuit continuing to attempt a connection even when not playing a disc.


----------



## Thxtheater

Thanks guys. Just to summarize, yes, I'm aware and in agreement that there is no value to Blu-ray beyond 8-bit. Color, 8-bit, 10-bit, 12-bit, etc. is not my concern in this exercise at all.


My concern is that with two brand new 3D Blu-ray players (Panasonic and Sony) connected to a brand new Panasonic ZT60 plasma, I'm getting instant dropouts and issues immediately upon connecting the players in their default, "auto" modes. The problem is there with sparklies and drops in audio and video whether or not a Bluray is playing—even if I'm in the setup menu.


I debugged all my cables, it's not my HDMI cables. I've been able to determine that with both the Panasonic and Sony players with deep color "off" the problem immediately goes away. With the Sony, I had more granular options and was able to determine that if the combo of RGB, 1080p, and 16-bit were selected, that trio caused the anomaly. Oddly, 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 with 1080p and 16-bit do not show the anomaly. Thus, I'm not inclined to think it's an HDMI bandwidth issue or a cable issue.


Since I know how to fix it, why am I concerned?
Firstly, if something doesn't work right, I want to know why—especially with really expensive equipment.
Secondly, bandwidth over HDMI is going up and with legacy units like the D2v and 50v3D units, passthrough will be the way we handle HDMI 1.4 and later connectivity. Therefore, if there's an issue in how things are handshaking or communicating, I want to know why there are problems because they won't go away, instead they may get worse in time or manifest themselves in other areas.
Third, my Anthem is still under warranty so if there's a potential issue or firmware-related fix with the Anthem, I want to tackle that now before the unit gets out of warranty or depreciated to another model.


----------



## Nicoff

The Anthem website has a FAQ section. One of the question/answer listed is:

_Q. I want the preamp to be in analog-direct mode when playing a stereo source, but I also want to use the subwoofer at the same time. How do I do this?


A. The traditional way - with the analog crossover hookup that came with your sub (if it has one). However, analog-DSP mode is recommended over this, and not just for prevention of connection headaches._


Is Anthem trying to say that you can use Analog-DSP to play a stereo source full range AND include a subwoofer? I am trying to figure out how you accomplish that. When I use analog-DSP in stereo mode no sound comes out of the sub (which conforms to what the the manual says stereo mode has no surround -- I take that to mean just two channels with no sub).


My goal is to be able to play my two main speakers full range and then have the sub fill in the very low frequencies. No surrounds or rears, just 2.1.


Any advice? Thanks!!


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42600#post_24569599
> 
> 
> The Anthem website has a FAQ section. One of the question/answer listed is:
> 
> _Q. I want the preamp to be in analog-direct mode when playing a stereo source, but I also want to use the subwoofer at the same time. How do I do this?
> 
> 
> A. The traditional way - with the analog crossover hookup that came with your sub (if it has one). However, analog-DSP mode is recommended over this, and not just for prevention of connection headaches._
> 
> 
> Is Anthem trying to say that you can use Analog-DSP to play a stereo source full range AND include a subwoofer? I am trying to figure out how you accomplish that. When I use analog-DSP in stereo mode no sound comes out of the sub (which conforms to what the the manual says stereo mode has no surround -- I take that to mean just two channels with no sub).
> 
> 
> My goal is to be able to play my two main speakers full range and then have the sub fill in the very low frequencies. No surrounds or rears, just 2.1.
> 
> 
> Any advice? Thanks!!


Do you have an anthem or are looking into purchase? With the analog DSP Mode, you set the crossover frequency of your speakers and then anything under that is passed to the sub--just like it would be in the digital domain. The important thing is that you need to explicitly enable analog DSP by the source input otherwise analog DSP is bypassed.


As I understand it, Analog DSP takes the analog signal from the input, passes it I to the digital domain via its high quality ADC and then applies the crossover filter and then Again via its high quality DAC. Rings it back to analog. In that way you get the benefits of bass management with an analog signal.


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24569653
> 
> 
> Do you have an anthem or are looking into purchase? With the analog DSP Mode, you set the crossover frequency of your speakers and then anything under that is passed to the sub--just like it would be in the digital domain. The important thing is that you need to explicitly enable analog DSP by the source input otherwise analog DSP is bypassed.
> 
> 
> As I understand it, Analog DSP takes the analog signal from the input, passes it I to the digital domain via its high quality ADC and then applies the crossover filter and then Again via its high quality DAC. Rings it back to analog. In that way you get the benefits of bass management with an analog signal.



I own a D2 and have been using it succesfully for many years in DSP mode. For music purposes, I have been playing it either in Analog Direct mode (exclusive two channels) or DSP mode with surrounds and a sub (basically a 4.1 configuration with no center channel).


I am now trying to use DSP in a 2.1 configuration to listen to music and allow the sub to fill in at very low frequencies.


I am now wondering if all I have to do is to select no surround speakers when running ARC for music set up.But if I do that, I will not be able to listen to music in 4.1 without running another ARC computation and uploading it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42600#post_24569599
> 
> 
> The Anthem website has a FAQ section. One of the question/answer listed is:
> 
> _Q. I want the preamp to be in analog-direct mode when playing a stereo source, but I also want to use the subwoofer at the same time. How do I do this?
> 
> 
> A. The traditional way - with the analog crossover hookup that came with your sub (if it has one). However, analog-DSP mode is recommended over this, and not just for prevention of connection headaches._
> 
> 
> Is Anthem trying to say that you can use Analog-DSP to play a stereo source full range AND include a subwoofer? I am trying to figure out how you accomplish that. When I use analog-DSP in stereo mode no sound comes out of the sub (which conforms to what the the manual says stereo mode has no surround -- I take that to mean just two channels with no sub).
> 
> 
> My goal is to be able to play my two main speakers full range and then have the sub fill in the very low frequencies. No surrounds or rears, just 2.1.
> 
> 
> Any advice? Thanks!!



The best way to do that is to just use ARC normally with LF/RF and Sub enabled when you set up the ARC configuration, and with LF/RF *NOT* set to Full Range. (Your Source definition will need Analog-DSP set and Room EQ ON.) ARC will blend the bass between the mains and the Sub. If you want to limit the Sub to the lowest frequencies you can change the ARC Targets to use a lower Cutoff/Crossover frequency for LF/RF if ARC has not already set it where you want it. For example if your Mains are good down to 20Hz, you could force a Crossover as low as 40Hz and ARC will do the best it can for the blending down there.


Forcing the bass to play in the Sub *AND ALSO* in the Mains WITHOUT such blending will of course lead to unbalanced bass, but if you really want it you can do it by setting Sub to "1 Super" in Setup. See Section 3.3 of the Manual.


Using 1 Super (Full Range mains *AND* bass steered to the Subwoofer) plays havoc with bass calibration, but if you really want it, you can do it. However, I'm not sure it will function properly while ARC is engaged. You will need ANALOG-DSP to get bass steering at all, but you should try it with both ROOM EQ ON and OFF (i.e., ARC enabled/disabled for that Source) to see which seems to be giving you the effect you desire.


Note that any crossover processing of Analog sources in the Anthem itself will require ANALOG-DSP as the crossover processing is done digitally. If you really want to use ANALOG-DIRECT and still have bass steering, then you will need to use a crossover circuit external to the Anthem, such as a crossover built into your Sub as the response from Anthem describes.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24569695
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24569653
> 
> 
> Do you have an anthem or are looking into purchase? With the analog DSP Mode, you set the crossover frequency of your speakers and then anything under that is passed to the sub--just like it would be in the digital domain. The important thing is that you need to explicitly enable analog DSP by the source input otherwise analog DSP is bypassed.
> 
> 
> As I understand it, Analog DSP takes the analog signal from the input, passes it I to the digital domain via its high quality ADC and then applies the crossover filter and then Again via its high quality DAC. Rings it back to analog. In that way you get the benefits of bass management with an analog signal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I own a D2 and have been using it succesfully for many years in DSP mode. For music purposes, I have been playing it either in Analog Direct mode (exclusive two channels) or DSP mode with surrounds and a sub (basically a 4.1 configuration with no center channel).
> 
> 
> I am now trying to use DSP in a 2.1 configuration to listen to music and allow the sub to fill in at very low frequencies.
> 
> 
> I am now wondering if all I have to do is to select no surround speakers when running ARC for music set up.But if I do that, I will not be able to listen to music in 4.1 without running another ARC computation and uploading it.
Click to expand...


Set up ARC as normal for all your speakers (including your Sub -- NOTE: Do *NOT* set LF/RF to Full Range in your ARC Targets) and simply select STEREO audio surround Mode while playing your stereo content. ARC will take the 2.0 content and produce 2.1 speaker output. Center and the Surrounds will be silent. You can set STEREO mode as the default when playing 2.0 content for any given Source in the Setup > Mode Presets for that Source.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Edit: others beat me to it; you may ignore this.


They are saying you get to use the Anthem bass manager if you use DSP. Just run ARC and follow the instruction to turn on room EQ and select NONE for 2.0 stereo in the Mode Preset menu.


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24569776
> 
> 
> Set up ARC as normal for all your speakers (including your Sub -- NOTE: Do *NOT* set LF/RF to Full Range in your ARC Targets) and simply select STEREO audio surround Mode while playing your stereo content. ARC will take the 2.0 content and produce 2.1 speaker output. Center and the Surrounds will be silent. You can set STEREO mode as the default when playing 2.0 content for any given Source in the Setup > Mode Presets for that Source.
> 
> --Bob



That sounds great! I will try it out this weekend. Doing it this way will also allow me to listen in 4.1 mode when I use Anthem-Music mode. Thanks Bob!!!


----------



## Thxtheater

A quick update on the issue I've been having with 3D Blu-ray players, the 50v3D and, a Panasonic 3D plasma.


Today, I took an in-depth look at the ZT60 settings. Frustratingly, nothing I did on the Panasonic side alleviated the problem in the chain. I disabled, changed, and confirmed a few settings on the Panasonic—including disabling a setting for 4:4:4 support. The RGB color space over HDMI was set to the default (standard). I didn't see an option to try any of the other color spaces. I tried some various, factory-settings including "standard", THX, and others (I've calibrated my display using the "custom" and "pro" profiles.


I then reset the Sony Blu-ray to factory defaults and unfortunately all the problems crept up again. I'm assuming that the "auto" is selecting RGB, 1080p, and 16-bit color (what I've called the "toxic" combo).


I'm not quite sure where else to look as to why this is happening. If it was an HDMI bandwidth issue, then I'd assume that 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 at 1080p and 16-bit would also yield the sparklies and drops, but they don't.


I'm going to email Anthem support with my findings at this point. If anyone else experiences a similar issue, I hope that the time I've spent debugging will help them out.


----------



## agrsiv95

Did you take the Anthem out of the chain and try all of the different settings to see if they pass?


Fwiw, I did it with my PS3 "searching for source" from the projector problem and it synced every time no matter which order I powered them up.


I know it doesn't help the problem but it beats buying other items for no reason.


Till something else comes out we will have to pick the best settings that cater to the Anthem. I know that all of the "extra fluff" that is offered is of no use at this point (maybe never) but when searching for every last ounce of the system it just leaves more what if?


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *agrsiv95*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24572595
> 
> 
> Did you take the Anthem out of the chain and try all of the different settings to see if they pass?
> 
> 
> Fwiw, I did it with my PS3 "searching for source" from the projector problem and it synced every time no matter which order I powered them up.
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't help the problem but it beats buying other items for no reason.
> 
> 
> Till something else comes out we will have to pick the best settings that cater to the Anthem. I know that all of the "extra fluff" that is offered is of no use at this point (maybe never) but when searching for every last ounce of the system it just leaves more what if?



Excellent point. Yes, I took the Anthem out of the equation and everything worked flawlessly. Now, I did not force the settings to be the "toxic trio" of RGB, 1080p, and 16-bit. I kept the settings on auto. At the same time, "auto" on both the Panasonic and Sony Blu-rays and played through the Anthem caused the anomalies.


Today, I decided to return the Sony to BestBuy and wait for new 3D players to come out so I'm done with any further testing possibilities.


I've unfortunately had lots of HDMI-chain headaches and it's been a real learning experience. I'm not necessarily complaining. What I do want to uncover, though is *why* something is happening. Oftentimes, it can be fixed with firmware.


My next project along this line is to test those similar settings on my Oppo BDP-83 and see what I get.


----------



## AVfile

When I reported my case of a "toxic combo" that is *supposed* to be supported to Anthem they didn't seem to care as a workaround was available (different settings). Good luck reporting about the *unsupported* 16-bit RGB. The fact that another unsupported combo works isn't going to help your cause.



Even if it did work I wouldn't use it. That's a lot of extra zeros being transmitted for nothing.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24574537
> 
> 
> When I reported my case of a "toxic combo" that is *supposed* to be supported to Anthem they didn't seem to care as a workaround was available (different settings). Good luck reporting about the *unsupported* 16-bit RGB. The fact that another unsupported combo works isn't going to help your cause.
> 
> 
> 
> Even if it did work I wouldn't use it. That's a lot of extra zeros being transmitted for nothing.



I hear you. Earlier on I was just told to use 8-bit. I get it







but I also know what a tough job those guys have to do.


----------



## RIppolito

Good people,


On the Audiogon website, there is an advertisement for a high definition sampler. They have two high resolution formats: 96kHz / 24 bit and 192kHz / 24 bit. I have an AVM50 with ARC installed.


Can I play either of these formats directly, or should I stick with 44.1 kHz / 16 bit?


Thank you in advance for any help you may provide.

Ron


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24575845
> 
> 
> Good people,
> 
> 
> On the Audiogon website, there is an advertisement for a high definition sampler. They have two high resolution formats: 96kHz / 24 bit and 192kHz / 24 bit. I have an AVM50 with ARC installed.
> 
> 
> Can I play either of these formats directly, or should I stick with 44.1 kHz / 16 bit?
> 
> 
> Thank you in advance for any help you may provide.
> 
> Ron



Ron if it's a digital sampler then I assume that you will be downloading either a FLAC or ALAC encoded file. If that is a correct assumption then you need a music server that will play the format you use or download and also output it at that resolution. Some media software for example will play a 24/96 file but down sample it to 16/44.


In my case I'm playing both 24/96 and 24/192 from a Mac Mini and I'm sending that audio stream out to the Anthem 50v. I'm sending it via the MacMini HDMI and via a USB to S/PDIF converter so that the anthem is fed both the HDMI and the S/PDIF digital connection.


It works flawlessly for me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The original AVM 50 is limited to 96KHz input. The newer AVM 50v can handle 192KHz Input. (Both at up to 24-bit.)

--Bob


----------



## brado32

Hi guys.. I dont come here very often, so be gentle.


I have an AVM50 that I have had for years with little issues. (v1.33).


I just took out my HTPC and replaced it with a Sony BD player. Every time I watch a BD movie, I can only get PCM. I have the Sony plugged into HDMI 1 on the AVM50. I have a cable box on HDMI 3 that has no problems switching surround modes on the AVM50. (5.1 DD, etc.) .. I just cant get anything else to display on the AVM50 from a BD disc other than PCM. It was really bad last night as I tried to watch Nebraska. I had no center channel and only stereo music and small effects..


Is this an AVM problem or a Sony problem.. I do have 1.47b for the AVM50, but havent tried loading that yet..


Any help would be appreciated.


thanks


-Brad


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24575961
> 
> 
> Hi guys.. I dont come here very often, so be gentle.
> 
> 
> I have an AVM50 that I have had for years with little issues. (v1.33).
> 
> 
> I just took out my HTPC and replaced it with a Sony BD player. Every time I watch a BD movie, I can only get PCM. I have the Sony plugged into HDMI 1 on the AVM50. I have a cable box on HDMI 3 that has no problems switching surround modes on the AVM50. (5.1 DD, etc.) .. I just cant get anything else to display on the AVM50 from a BD disc other than PCM. It was really bad last night as I tried to watch Nebraska. I had no center channel and only stereo music and small effects..
> 
> 
> Is this an AVM problem or a Sony problem.. I do have 1.47b for the AVM50, but havent tried loading that yet..
> 
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> -Brad




If my memory serves me correct the AVM50 is limited to 96/12 and Dolby or DTS 5.1.

If you bought a Sony BD player capable of decoding lossless

Doby True HD and DTS HD Master surround you have to have them decoded in the Sony player before sending them to the Anthem.

*And you probably have the Sony set to bitstreaming*


Check the Sony user manual for the proper setup to decode in the BD player. I believe the Anthem display will then say they are PCM.

You will have to be using HDMI for the Anthem input from the Sony player and set the Anthem to Audio In : Digital

Set the Anthem input source for the Sony to HDMI and Anthem Audio to Digital.

The Mode should be 6.0 PLIIx Movie


\


----------



## RIppolito

I have an AVM50, as well. I agree with the previous reply, in that I cannot get the new, high-definition audio bitstreams from my blu-ray unless I set the player to 'PCM'. When I do that, it sounds terrific.

Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The original AVM 50 and Statement D2 can not accept Bitstream input of the lossless formats (Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA). Set your player to decode these to high bit-rate multi-channel LPCM and you will hear the full audio quality up to 5.1 channels input.


These older Anthem pre-pros CAN accept Bitstream input of the traditional lossy DD and DTS formats.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24575845
> 
> 
> Good people,
> 
> 
> On the Audiogon website, there is an advertisement for a high definition sampler. They have two high resolution formats: 96kHz / 24 bit and 192kHz / 24 bit. I have an AVM50 with ARC installed.
> 
> 
> Can I play either of these formats directly, or should I stick with 44.1 kHz / 16 bit?



Do you have a DVD or BD player compatible with DVD-Audio?


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brado32*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24575961
> 
> 
> I just took out my HTPC and replaced it with a Sony BD player. Every time I watch a BD movie, I can only get PCM. I have the Sony plugged into HDMI 1 on the AVM50. I have a cable box on HDMI 3 that has no problems switching surround modes on the AVM50. (5.1 DD, etc.) .. I just cant get anything else to display on the AVM50 from a BD disc other than PCM. It was really bad last night as I tried to watch Nebraska. I had no center channel and only stereo music and small effects..
> 
> 
> Is this an AVM problem or a Sony problem.



This might be a Sony problem. I hope you didn't buy one of those new crippled models (eg: 5100) as they are limited to 2.0 PCM output.


----------



## Nicoff

What modes do you usually use while watching movies or listening to music?

I typically use:

TV-> 5.1 (my D2 does not seem to give me any other choice)

DVD-> anthem logic cinema

Music-> anthem logic music

With so many choices available, I wonder if you have a recommendation that I should try.


----------



## Kris Deering

Music - Stereo

Movies - Nothing (it receives a PCM signal from my Oppo and adds nothing on top


I use ARC and have the bass management setup for the best response for the room but don't do any post processing on top. Sound fantastic, no extra flavoring needed.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24579774
> 
> 
> What modes do you usually use while watching movies or listening to music?
> 
> I typically use:
> 
> TV-> 5.1 (my D2 does not seem to give me any other choice)
> 
> DVD-> anthem logic cinema
> 
> Music-> anthem logic music
> 
> With so many choices available, I wonder if you have a recommendation that I should try.



I leave everything as the source gives me with one exception: if I have a 5.1 mix I will pocess it to 7.1 since I have a large room. My reasoning and need is therefore more to provide additional envelopement than anything else. With ARC running the sound, as Kris said, is spectacular.


----------



## Nicoff

One more question. When you run ARC do you use different configuration for Movie and Music?

I used to do that because I wanted to listen to music without the center channel, but AnthemLogic music does that anyway. So I could have just run the movie configuration only all along without having to take almost twice as long running ARC for two configurations.

Incidentally, I wish you were allowed to select a different sitting position (I.e. Different Speaker distances) for music and movies.


----------



## RIppolito

Yes...I have an original PS3 that can play SACDs and DVD-Audio discs. Do you know of a way to write out the lossless AIFFs to make a DVD-Audio disc? Alternatively, does anyone have a recommendation for how to stream lossless audio (in AIFF) through a PS3 to my AVM50?


Thank you in advance for helping me learn.

Ron


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24580300
> 
> 
> Yes...I have an original PS3 that can play SACDs and DVD-Audio discs. Do you know of a way to write out the lossless AIFFs to make a DVD-Audio disc?



Just what I was going to suggest. I have used free software to burn files to a DVD and they played in 96/24. It was either DVDFab or DVD-Audiofile, I can't remember. The "how" would be outside the scope of this forum, so I suggest you do some searching or post a question elsewhere.


You can also buy SACD and DAD releases. They can be transmitted as uncompressed PCM since HDMI version 1.0.


Cheers


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24579774
> 
> 
> What modes do you usually use while watching movies or listening to music?
> 
> I typically use:
> 
> TV-> 5.1 (my D2 does not seem to give me any other choice)
> 
> DVD-> anthem logic cinema
> 
> Music-> anthem logic music
> 
> With so many choices available, I wonder if you have a recommendation that I should try.



I think you might be getting some of the settings confused.


Please tell us the number of speakers you have in your room.. Is it - 5 + a sub (5.1) or 7 + a sub (7.1) ?


This is super important:


Did you check the setup in your Sony Blu Ray so IT IS NOT bit streaming ?


Then your setup menu should look like this except for the Component,Composite and S-video inputs which you may not be using.

 



And your modes should pretty much follow this


 


You can change the 2.0 to Stereo (no synthesized surround ) and can customize it later after you decide it is running correctly


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24580228
> 
> 
> One more question. When you run ARC do you use different configuration for Movie and Music?
> 
> I used to do that because I wanted to listen to music without the center channel, but AnthemLogic music does that anyway. So I could have just run the movie configuration only all along without having to take almost twice as long running ARC for two configurations.
> 
> Incidentally, I wish you were allowed to select a different sitting position (I.e. Different Speaker distances) for music and movies.



Although you can't change the speaker distances, you can do separate movie and music runs, but place the mic for the 1st reading for 'movie' in the main listening position you use when watching movies. When doing the music run, place the mic for the 1st reading in the main listening position you use when listening to music. ARC will adjust the room correction differently for each MLP. But that will necessitate doing separate movie and music runs. You will have to decide whether the added accuracy is worth the few extra minutes it will take to do separate music and movie runs.


----------



## Nicoff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24580859
> 
> 
> I think you might be getting some of the settings confused.
> 
> 
> Please tell us the number of speakers you have in your room.. Is it - 5 + a sub (5.1) or 7 + a sub (7.1) ?
> 
> 
> This is super important:
> 
> 
> Did you check the setup in your Sony Blu Ray so IT IS NOT bit streaming ?
> 
> 
> Then your setup menu should look like this except for the Component,Composite and S-video inputs which you may not be using.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And your modes should pretty much follow this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can change the 2.0 to Stereo (no synthesized surround ) and can customize it later after you decide it is running correctly



I am using 5.1. I do not have a Sony Blue ray. I have an Oppo player. It is not bit streaming. The TV signal comes from the TV box (FiosTV not from DVD player.

My settings look a lot like what you posted, except that I do not use s-video or component (my DVD connection is via HDMI). The mode presets vary and I can change them. My question was what modes are you using for listening to music and watching movies.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nicoff*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24581098
> 
> 
> I am using 5.1. I do not have a Sony Blue ray. I have an Oppo player. It is not bit streaming. The TV signal comes from the TV box (FiosTV not from DVD player.
> 
> My settings look a lot like what you posted, except that I do not use s-video or component (my DVD connection is via HDMI). The mode presets vary and I can change them. My question was what modes are you using for listening to music and watching movies.



I tried various modes with music and battled between anthem music and plain stereo. I finally decided upon stereo. I liked the ambiance that Anthem music created. However one thing became apparent in my setup: stereo was the purer and truer sound and image placement was properly done. From then on I have stuck with stereo. I did notice though that I preferred stereo more when I upgraded to my current Revel Salon2 speakers. Depending on your speakers you may prefer one mode over another.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RIppolito*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42630#post_24580300
> 
> 
> Yes...I have an original PS3 that can play SACDs and DVD-Audio discs. Do you know of a way to write out the lossless AIFFs to make a DVD-Audio disc? Alternatively, does anyone have a recommendation for how to stream lossless audio (in AIFF) through a PS3 to my AVM50?
> 
> 
> Thank you in advance for helping me learn.
> 
> Ron


Sony does not do DVD-Audio discs. Now you may be able to write hi-res files to a data or video DVD. I've used cirlinca software in the past but this is not the place for that discussion.


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. I received a replacement amp for my submersive and redid the Cal for the SVS ASEQ then ran ARC but forgot to connect the SAT channel to the ASEQ but proceeded with the cal and got this result:

WithoutSatChannel.jpg 612k .jpg file


But decided to redo it today with the SAT channel connected and got this result:

WithSatChannel.jpg 610k .jpg file


With the SAT channel connected during the Cal it looks worse after running ARC? I'm using the same Mic height and same positions as always for both calibrations plus Subs were not moved. So which do I go with? The first one gives me a flatter correction.


Thoughts on what I should trust.


----------



## gjwAudio

*Anthem Is Deaf to Quad: AN UPDATE* (yes, please enjoy the pun)


Hi Folks


You may recall my earlier posts, concerning 4.0-channel PCM playback through the D2 (Classic) - or lack thereof (first reported * here *).


Well, Hope is on The Horizon.


I've been working with the xbmc guys on a fix, testing is complete, and we're waiting on a decision concerning the merge into production. Woo-HOO !


In simple terms, the trick is to force a 5.1 output sink when 4.0 is requested by the xbmc player. To do this selectively - and not impact AVRs that _do_ handle the format correctly - a blacklist will be implemented.


This is a call-out to the very small subset of people who:

own another afflicted Anthem product (ie: not D2 Classic)
use xbmc as a source, listening to 4.0 media (ie: Lf/Rf/Ls/Rs-PCM over HDMI)
care enough about it to join the club, run some tests and report results to the xbmc devs


Is that YOU ?

Or YOU ?

Or maybe YOU (...I think that covers everyone







).


But seriously, if your D2v/AVM50/AVM50v behaves like the D2 with this material, it should be included in the blacklist. However, you'll have to help to get it in. Feel free to PM me for further detail and contact info.


In the meantime, it's gratifying to know there's a way to get four-channel-satisfaction from Anthem - can't say enough good about the xbmc community.


Hmmm... perhaps the MRX-People enjoy the same design feature; when they play that original Alan Parsons quad mix of _DSoTM_ - out comes Stereo. I'd better go fishing in their threads too.


Thanks for playing.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gjwAudio*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24612256
> 
> *Anthem Is Deaf to Quad: AN UPDATE* (yes, please enjoy the pun)
> 
> 
> Hi Folks
> 
> 
> You may recall my earlier posts, concerning 4.0-channel PCM playback through the D2 (Classic) - or lack thereof (first reported * here *).
> 
> 
> Well, Hope is on The Horizon.
> 
> 
> I've been working with the xbmc guys on a fix, testing is complete, and we're waiting on a decision concerning the merge into production. Woo-HOO !
> 
> 
> In simple terms, the trick is to force a 5.1 output sink when 4.0 is requested by the xbmc player. To do this selectively - and not impact AVRs that _do_ handle the format correctly - a blacklist will be implemented.
> 
> 
> This is a call-out to the very small subset of people who:
> 
> own another afflicted Anthem product (ie: not D2 Classic)
> use xbmc as a source, listening to 4.0 media (ie: Lf/Rf/Ls/Rs-PCM over HDMI)
> care enough about it to join the club, run some tests and report results to the xbmc devs
> 
> 
> Is that YOU ?
> 
> Or YOU ?
> 
> Or maybe YOU (...I think that covers everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> But seriously, if your D2v/AVM50/AVM50v behaves like the D2 with this material, it should be included in the blacklist. However, you'll have to help to get it in. Feel free to PM me for further detail and contact info.
> 
> 
> In the meantime, it's gratifying to know there's a way to get four-channel-satisfaction from Anthem - can't say enough good about the xbmc community.
> 
> 
> Hmmm... perhaps the MRX-People enjoy the same design feature; when they play that original Alan Parsons quad mix of _DSoTM_ - out comes Stereo. I'd better go fishing in their threads too.
> 
> 
> Thanks for playing.


Nice work. Really nice.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ What's the downside to sending 4.0 LPCM content as 5.1 (with Center/Sub silent) to *ALL* devices?

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I should add, the Anthems also don't accept LPCM 1.0. Source devices send LPCM 2.0 instead (dual channel Mono). I guess the question is, since the Anthem says it can't accept LPCM 4.0, why would a source device send LPCM 2.0 for 4.0 content instead of sending 5.1 (with Center/Sub silent)?

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24613359
> 
> 
> ^ I should add, the Anthems also don't accept LPCM 1.0. Source devices send LPCM 2.0 instead (dual channel Mono). I guess the question is, since the Anthem says it can't accept LPCM 4.0, why would a source device send LPCM 2.0 for 4.0 content instead of sending 5.1 (with Center/Sub silent)?
> 
> --Bob



Bob makes an excellent point. This is how I do all my audio from my Mac Mini. I send it as 7.1 and whatever channels are there from the server source are sent out. All other channels are silent. Not sure if you mentioned that capability with your hardware setup.


----------



## gjwAudio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24613191
> 
> 
> ^ What's the downside to sending 4.0 LPCM content as 5.1 (with Center/Sub silent) to *ALL* devices?
> 
> --Bob



Ah yes, sounds simple enough to me. They (ie: xbmc devs) don't want to force such a blanket change.


That was the gist of my first proposal, reasoning many/most/(all ??) AVRs suffer the same outrage - however, they're reluctant to hobble a "universal", multi-platform product for the sake of one guy complaining. I can see their point... if the source asks for 4.0, then they oblige and open output for 4.0 - what could be cleaner ?


The story is much longer (been at this for months now), and I found test results vary from platform to platform. For example, under Win7, the Quad test file was actually sent as 5.1 to the D2, and the four speakers played correctly. Nice for the Windows guys I guess, but I've chosen * OpenELEC * to run xbmc, so the Linux driver is the path I've had to chase down. Thankfully there was a good reception to my query... try that in Redmond










> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24613359
> 
> 
> ^ ... I guess the question is, since the Anthem says it can't accept LPCM 4.0, why would a source device send LPCM 2.0 for 4.0 content instead of sending 5.1 (with Center/Sub silent)?
> 
> --Bob



A very good question. One issue is how EDID communicates the audio channel capability of the AVR - it specifies a maximum channel count, but says nothing about formats with fewer channels.


In this case, the D2 says "I can handle up to 6 channels". No other info - like "4.0 not recognized" - is available. Testing shows the D2 only plays the first 2 LPCM channels of the stream - and the display indicates "Stereo". This correlates with my sad experience trying to send _DSoTM_ from my Oppo DV-980H > HDMI... only L/R channels get through.


----------



## slots1

Need some help

I have a D2v, I updated from the D2 about 4 years ago. I just got the Sony 600es projector and have ordered the 3d board. Happy to say I made the cut on my serial number to pay 500 not 1500.

I am in a new place, I have not used ARC in years.

I basically have to start over with the whole setup.

Suggestions for video and audio settings. I am using a server now for cds and dvds. Also, have the oppo 93, should i upgrade to the 103 or even the 105.

The guy who sold me the sony said my settings are not working for video, should 24fps for bluray. and 60 for everything else. Do I do auto on anything. sometimes need limited and other times full.

Help help....

I am not going to use my ISCO lens from my marantz projector. Seems a waste to distort the image even slightly. Anyone have any interest in buying it.

Or the whole set up with motorized marantz sled and projector

thanks

gerry


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gjwAudio*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24613831
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24613191
> 
> 
> ^ What's the downside to sending 4.0 LPCM content as 5.1 (with Center/Sub silent) to *ALL* devices?
> 
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah yes, sounds simple enough to me. They (ie: xbmc devs) don't want to force such a blanket change.
> 
> 
> That was the gist of my first proposal, reasoning many/most/(all ??) AVRs suffer the same outrage - however, they're reluctant to hobble a "universal", multi-platform product for the sake of one guy complaining. I can see their point... if the source asks for 4.0, then they oblige and open output for 4.0 - what could be cleaner ?
> 
> 
> The story is much longer (been at this for months now), and I found test results vary from platform to platform. For example, under Win7, the Quad test file was actually sent as 5.1 to the D2, and the four speakers played correctly. Nice for the Windows guys I guess, but I've chosen * OpenELEC * to run xbmc, so the Linux driver is the path I've had to chase down. Thankfully there was a good reception to my query... try that in Redmond
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24613359
> 
> 
> ^ ... I guess the question is, since the Anthem says it can't accept LPCM 4.0, why would a source device send LPCM 2.0 for 4.0 content instead of sending 5.1 (with Center/Sub silent)?
> 
> --Bob
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> A very good question. One issue is how EDID communicates the audio channel capability of the AVR - it specifies a maximum channel count, but says nothing about formats with fewer channels.
> 
> 
> In this case, the D2 says "I can handle up to 6 channels". No more info - like "4.0 not recognized" - is available. Testing shows the D2 only plays the first 2 LPCM channels of the stream - and the display indicates "Stereo". This correlates with my sad experience trying to send _DSoTM_ from my Oppo DV-980H > HDMI... only L/R channels get through.
Click to expand...


The reason the Anthem is playing 2.0 is because the XBMC discovered that 4.0 didn't work and sent 2.0 instead, not because somehow the Anthem is receiving 4.0 and discarding 2 channels itself. What XBMC should be doing is raising the channel count to 5.1 instead of dropping down to 2.0. It's the job of the Source to only send audio the receiving device can handle. And yes, earlier OPPO players had the same problem with 4.0 and 3.0 content to the Anthem -- since fixed in their newer players with newer HDMI chips.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi Bob. Any suggestions regarding my issue *Post #42662* above?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Sorry I'm not familiar with the SVS ASEQ and what it's "SAT channel" is supposed to do.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

No worries Bob. Kris has made some suggestions and I will attempt to perform them tonight and redo the calibrations for each unit. The Sat channel (Front Left) is connected to the Anthem then to the ASEQ so the ASEQ can Phase match to the subs during it's calibration.


*Update*


Performed the changes that Kris suggested and here is the new graph for the sub after calibrating with the ASEQ and then running ARC:

Graph.jpg 632k .jpg file


A bit better between 20hz and 60hz but still have a slight dip at around 70hz. Haven't tried listening to anything yet but will tonight.


----------



## gjwAudio

Hi Bob


Thanks for considering my issue some more, and offering additional comment. It is with the greatest respect for your expertise and experience in these matters, that I offer these points in reply.


DISCLAIMER: While xbmc _aims_ to be everything to everyone on every platform, there may be quirks in behaviour from one OS to the next. My assertions apply to OpenELEC, a variant of Linux. Other flavours (Windows, OSX, etc.) may behave identically, but I've not tested them, and have no basis for comment.


Also FYI, my D2 is configured for a 5.1 speaker array, not 7.1.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24614278
> 
> 
> The reason the Anthem is playing 2.0 is because the XBMC discovered that 4.0 didn't work and sent 2.0 instead, not because somehow the Anthem is receiving 4.0 and discarding 2 channels itself.



The D2 played only 2 channels because (sadly) the design team forgot - or chose to ignore - _that other surround format:_ QUAD. (maybe cause it's non-SMPTE ?) Perhaps they covered this off in models released after the D2.


As reported in my first post , xbmc found 4 channel INPUT, opened 4 channel OUTPUT, and sent 4 channels of LPCM to the D2. An excerpt from the debug log details this...
Code:


Code:


[CODE]DEBUG: CAESinkALSA::GetChannelLayout - Input Channel Count: 4 Output Channel Count: 4
DEBUG: CAESinkALSA::GetChannelLayout - Requested Layout: FL,FR,BL,BR
DEBUG: CAESinkALSA::GetChannelLayout - Got Layout: FL,FR,BL,BR
DEBUG: CActiveAESink::OpenSink - ALSA Initialized:
DEBUG:   Output Device : HDA Intel PCH
DEBUG:   Sample Rate   : 48000
DEBUG:   Sample Format : AE_FMT_S32NE
DEBUG:   Channel Count : 4
DEBUG:   Channel Layout: FL,FR,BL,BR

[/CODE]


The other two (rear) channels were ignored. This is generally the case for LPCM streams whose channel count is less than 6. I say generally, because there are some odd combinations that cause "5.1" to display, but result in less than 6 speakers sounding.


I learned this when testing the full range of channel maps defined in the HDMI v1.1 spec (0x00 thru 0x31). The ALSA guys had me run a script that generates noise bursts, cycling through each channel, for each defined mapping. This spreadsheet tabulates the results...
ALSAAudioSinkTesting.xls 33k .xls file

(notice our friend 0x08 in the list







)



> Quote:
> ...XBMC discovered that 4.0 didn't work...



Discussions with xbmc/ALSA devs suggest there is no mechanism for the program to evaluate this condition.


As I understand it, the initial HDMI handshake sends the EDID to the source component (in this case HTPC/xbmc), and the ELD is queried regarding audio capabilities. The SADx entries (Short Audio Descriptor) tell the source about audio format, channel number, and bitrate/resolution capabilities.
*Short Audio Descriptor defined* (Click to show) Code:


Code:


[CODE]Any Audio Data Block contains one or more 3-byte Short Audio Descriptors (SADs).  Each SAD
    details audio format, channel number, and bitrate/resolution capabilities of the display as
    follows:
    SAD Byte 1 (format and number of channels):
       bit 7: Reserved (0)
       bit 6..3: Audio format code
         1 = Linear Pulse Code Modulation (LPCM)
         2 = AC-3
         3 = MPEG1 (Layers 1 and 2)
         4 = MP3
         5 = MPEG2
         6 = AAC
         7 = DTS
         8 = ATRAC
         0, 15: Reserved 
         9 = One-bit audio aka SACD
        10 = DD+
        11 = DTS-HD
        12 = MLP/Dolby TrueHD
        13 = DST Audio
        14 = Microsoft WMA Pro
       bit 2..0: number of channels minus 1  (i.e. 000 = 1 channel; 001 = 2 channels; 111 =
                 8 channels)

    SAD Byte 2 (sampling frequencies supported):
       bit 7: Reserved (0)
       bit 6: 192kHz
       bit 5: 176kHz
       bit 4: 96kHz
       bit 3: 88kHz
       bit 2: 48kHz
       bit 1: 44kHz
       bit 0: 32kHz

    SAD Byte 3 (bitrate):
      For LPCM, bits 7:3 are reserved and the remaining bits define bit depth
       bit 2: 24 bit
       bit 1: 20 bit
       bit 0: 16 bit
    For all other sound formats, bits 7..0 designate the maximum supported bitrate divided by 
    8 kbit/s.

[/CODE]


The ELD report for my D2 looks like this:
Code:


Code:


[CODE]OpenELEC (official) Version: 3.95.2
OpenELEC:~ # cat /proc/asound/card0/eld#*.*
monitor_present         0
eld_valid               0
monitor_present         1
eld_valid               1
monitor_name            Statement D2
connection_type         HDMI
eld_version             [0x2] CEA-861D or below
edid_version            [0x3] CEA-861-B, C or D
manufacture_id          0xed40
product_id              0x0
port_id                 0x0
support_hdcp            0
support_ai              1
audio_sync_delay        0
speakers                [0xf] FL/FR LFE FC RL/RR
sad_count               3
sad0_coding_type        [0x1] LPCM
sad0_channels           6
sad0_rates              [0x6e0] 32000 44100 48000 88200 96000
sad0_bits               [0xe0000] 16 20 24
sad1_coding_type        [0x2] AC-3
sad1_channels           6
sad1_rates              [0x6e0] 32000 44100 48000 88200 96000
sad1_max_bitrate        2040000
sad2_coding_type        [0x7] DTS
sad2_channels           6
sad2_rates              [0x6e0] 32000 44100 48000 88200 96000
sad2_max_bitrate        2040000
OpenELEC:~ #

[/CODE]


...where sad0_channels = 6. That is the maximum count permissible for LPCM. No information is available for channel counts less than six. If _channel_count_ 2, the source must decide what mapping to send without knowledge of how "intermediate" channel counts will be handled.


> Quote:
> What XBMC should be doing is raising the channel count to 5.1...



As Anthem is unable to accommodate the traditional 4 channels, I agree completely - this is the only way to get a quad result - and that solution is what I've been working toward.


> Quote:
> ... It's the job of the Source to only send audio the receiving device can handle.



Absolutely agree, but in the absence of full information, what's a manufacturer to do ? Assumptions and trade offs will be made that don't suit every installation (says He, as he looks around the room







).


I'm just happy to find a fix to a major negative, in a component I otherwise Love, Love, Love - the Most Excellent D2










Thanks again Bob, for all you do to keep the denizens of this thread on the straight-and-narrow. I mean you no offense by rattling back all this data to your observations. Having lived through the hard acquisition of the info, I thought it right to set the facts out on the pertinent points. I hope you don't mind


----------



## gjwAudio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24613672
> 
> 
> Bob makes an excellent point. This is how I do all my audio from my Mac Mini. I send it as 7.1 and whatever channels are there from the server source are sent out. All other channels are silent. Not sure if you mentioned that capability with your hardware setup.



@Thxtheater


I have a 5.1 speaker array here, and set the D2 accordingly.


I think I mentioned this previously about xbmc: setting the channel output to FIXED, requires you to also declare a fixed SAMPLE RATE. In terms of fidelity to the original audio, I want to avoid SRC whenever possible.


The Quad Collection alone varies between 44.1k to 48k to 88.2k to 96k sample rates (never mind the uber hi-rez 2-channel music), so a fixed output rate means three of these SRs are going to be converted unnecessarily.


Additionally, much of my video media has 2.0 audio. When set for fixed 5.1 O/P, these vids are not identified by the D2 for AnthemLogic-Cinema processing - a favourite around here for such programs. This too is a thing I want to avoid.


With the proposed 4.0 > 5.1 fix, xbmc will switch automagically as needed, and do as little harm as possible to music fidelity and video soundtracks.


Are these things that might affect you ?


----------



## slots1

bob

could you help me with the new setup i described above with the sony 600es


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Set the OPPO to send 1080p/24 for Blu-ray films (1080p/24 Output AUTO).


You can then set up three Source definitions in the D2v, all of which use the OPPO as the Input device, and which differ according to the Video Output Configuration they select. Set one to output 1080p/24, another for 1080p/60, and the third as Video Output Configuration THROUGH so you can use your new 3D board for 3D viewing (which only works as THROUGH). (Or you can switch between the Video Output Configuration selections using the shortcut on the remote.)


Then you can play around and decide for yourself whether you prefer sending /24 to your new projector or not. Note that you should only do that if the input from the OPPO is /24. Some Blu-ray discs (live concerts for example) are recorded on disc as 1080i60, and you should not try to convert those to 1080p/24 as that can't work cleanly. The OPPO will output those as 1080p/60. You can always check with the Select button displays on the D2v to see what's coming in from the OPPO.


To take advantage of your new 3D board, the OPPO must connect to the upper row of inputs on the D2v (HDMI 1-4), and the upper HDMI output must be used to go to your Display.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

gjwAudio,

I suspect if you try LPCM output of 4.0 content discs on the Sony PS3 or modern Blu-ray players (such as the recent OPPOs) you will find they ALL output LPCM 5.1 to the D2. I seriously doubt all of them have the D2 listed as a special case.


Of course LPCM 2.0 content should be output as 2.0, not 5.1.

--Bob


----------



## gjwAudio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24616630
> 
> 
> gjwAudio,
> 
> I suspect if you try LPCM output of 4.0 content discs on the Sony PS3 or modern Blu-ray players (such as the recent OPPOs) you will find they ALL output LPCM 5.1 to the D2.



I have none of that hardware at hand, but agree with you - surely manufacturers have seen the practicality of defaulting 3.0, 4.0 and 5.0 LPCM to six-channel format. It gets the music through as intended... and saves a whole bunch of fuss, such as the D2/Quad issue (...beat to death by now







)


> Quote:
> I seriously doubt all of them have the D2 listed as a special case.



Ha-ha... no way anybody has built this into their HW (I didn't report it to any of them







). I guess playing with the HTPC as a source brings its own set of troubles. I'm gonna leave video optimization till the dust settles on the audio front.


Thanks again for helping.

Grant


----------



## slots1

Bob

Thanks

Most of the time we will be using a server to

Play music

Watch DVDs and blurays

Netflix

And uverse

The oppo is used about 5% of the time.

So what is your suggestion for all of the above

Gerry


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The same concepts apply: Set Video Output Configurations to allow for either 1080p/24 or 1080p/60 or THROUGH output to your display from your main source device. It's OK to set the source device to send 1080p/24 all the time when it is playing 1080p/24 content -- the Anthem can convert that to 1080p/60 output if you find you don't want to send 1080p/24 to your Display.


Once you find the combos you are using most of the time, you can bake those into Setup > Source Setup definitions as I suggested -- i.e., one for 1080p/24 output, one for 1080p/60 output, and for 3D viewing, one for THROUGH output.

--Bob


----------



## slots1

Thanks bob


----------



## runninkyle17

Still waiting on any information regarding my previous issue. Currently I still get EDID problems between the D2v intermittently. It seems that if I set my cable box to 720p then every channel comes through perfectly and is outputed as it should at 720p. If I set the cable box to 1080i then for some reason channel 4 does not come through. This does not seem to occur on any other channel. The cable box keeps switching back to the default 1080i setting even if I manually set it to 720p (rather stupid and annoying imo).


I do not understand why the damn D2v started doing this. I have switched HDMI cables and I still run into the same problem. I have tried every setting imaginable in the D2v. Changing resolution formats, changing video settings, etc, etc.


I need some opinions on this from any one. I can try a different firmware I guess. I am using 3.09J currently. Please help!!!


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24624902
> 
> 
> Still waiting on any information regarding my previous issue. Currently I still get EDID problems between the D2v intermittently. It seems that if I set my cable box to 720p then every channel comes through perfectly and is outputed as it should at 720p. If I set the cable box to 1080i then for some reason channel 4 does not come through. This does not seem to occur on any other channel. The cable box keeps switching back to the default 1080i setting even if I manually set it to 720p (rather stupid and annoying imo).
> 
> 
> I do not understand why the damn D2v started doing this. I have switched HDMI cables and I still run into the same problem. I have tried every setting imaginable in the D2v. Changing resolution formats, changing video settings, etc, etc.
> 
> 
> I need some opinions on this from any one. I can try a different firmware I guess. I am using 3.09J currently. Please help!!!


Looks like you are joining the many satisfied Dr. HDMI clan of users. Check out for more info the previous posts in the thread or http://www.pooraudiophile.com/2013/12/the-fix-for-appletv-hdmi-woes-and-hdmi.html?m=1


----------



## runninkyle17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24624915
> 
> 
> Looks like you are joining the many satisfied Dr. HDMI clan of users. Check out for more info the previous posts in the thread or http://www.pooraudiophile.com/2013/12/the-fix-for-appletv-hdmi-woes-and-hdmi.html?m=1



I already use the Dr. HDMI for the HTPC input and it works perfectly. The D2v output to the TV has been working just fine for the past 1.5 years without any issues. The problem began with the 3D board upgrade. That is unacceptable that a board upgrade would cause this issue. I am not going to waste $100 on another Dr. HDMI when I am not sure if it will even work. I really don't think the Dr. HDMI will even fix it.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24625197
> 
> 
> I already use the Dr. HDMI for the HTPC input and it works perfectly. The D2v output to the TV has been working just fine for the past 1.5 years without any issues. The problem began with the 3D board upgrade. That is unacceptable that a board upgrade would cause this issue. I am not going to waste $100 on another Dr. HDMI when I am not sure if it will even work. I really don't think the Dr. HDMI will even fix it.


Ugh. Sorry to hear that. You can always test it and then move it back.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24624902
> 
> 
> Still waiting on any information regarding my previous issue. Currently I still get EDID problems between the D2v intermittently. It seems that if I set my cable box to 720p then every channel comes through perfectly and is outputed as it should at 720p. If I set the cable box to 1080i then for some reason channel 4 does not come through. This does not seem to occur on any other channel. The cable box keeps switching back to the default 1080i setting even if I manually set it to 720p (rather stupid and annoying imo).
> 
> 
> I do not understand why the damn D2v started doing this. I have switched HDMI cables and I still run into the same problem. I have tried every setting imaginable in the D2v. Changing resolution formats, changing video settings, etc, etc.
> 
> 
> I need some opinions on this from any one. I can try a different firmware I guess. I am using 3.09J currently. Please help!!!



My understanding is that all cable systems carry 1080i as default even when the station is OTA as 720p.

You might try this.

Set the cable box at 1080i output and see what happens.

If there is still a problem move the HDMI cable input to the lower board. Numbers 5 to 8 as that was not changed with the upgrade to 3D.


----------



## obie_fl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24626331
> 
> 
> My understanding is that all cable systems carry 1080i as default even when the station is OTA as 720p.


Do not believe that to be true at all, at least my cable company sends native rate. I get 480P, 720P and 1080i depending on the channel just like OTA. Now it is true many set top boxes will convert the 480P and 720P to 1080i if you let it.


----------



## stevekappy

I have been a lurker seems like forever on this site and finally signed up. I will thank all of you now for the advice I have used to get to this point.


The short question is: How does one get firmware from Anthem that is not officially on the public web site?


I have seen many postings here for beta firmware but have not been successful obtaining any, even from my local Anthem integrator.


The reason for my many thanks is that I have been designing my home theatre for almost 10 years now and finally built it after we had a mini flood in the basement. It is sound isolated from the rest of the house as best as I could with my budget. The full list of items is at the end of this post, but I have a P5 as my main 5 channel amp, a D2 as my pre-amp, and a D1 as my pre-amp for the kitchen, dining room, and living room. I drank the Anthem kool aid.


I now have a 7.3 system in the theatre but am very disappointed that I cannot play the 7.1 content as it is encoded on the blu-ray. My blu-ray player is an Oppo BDP-105D which I bought because I thought the Oppo could decode DTS MA or True HD and I would be able to output 7.1 PCM to the Anthem D2. It seems this is not the case. I have read a couple of places that a firmware upgrade might be able to get me 7.1 PCM. I am waiting to hear back from a custom integrator here to see if I can get my D2 upgraded, at least the audio, so I can decode 7.1 properly. It is terrible to say I do not require the video scaler, because the scaler in the D2 is incredible, but I am going to send the video signal directly from the Oppo to my projector because the projector can receive 4k signals.


I have read many postings from Bob (thank you for all of your advice here!!) and others that advise receiving the 5.1 and use the Dolby IIx or THX Ultra 2 to get that additional channels, After spending the blood, sweat, and tears (yes there was some crying) building this theatre, I cannot help but feel like the theatre is not complete going that route. I do not want to replace the Anthem because it is incredible for music, our other passion that drove the building of the room, but I really want the 7.1 as is encoded on the blu-ray.


If there is any other advice, guidance, etc. that the collective wisdom of this group can provide, I would greatly appreciate it!


Thank you all!.


-Steve


Theatre Infrastructure:

- Double 5/8" drywall everywhere

- Kinetic wave hangers on the ceiling

- Kinetic IsoMax on the walls

- PAC international RSIC-DC4HD hangers for bulkheads, projector mount, screen mount.

- Green glue in the vestibule (too small / too many corners / too cramped for the IsoMax)

- Acoustic sealant everywhere

- R30 between the floor joists

- R19 between the studs

- 1 3/4" solid core door (flush) with drop seal on bottom and Pemko seals on jamb

- 2 risers isolated from the walls (not the floors)

- Interior columns (also isolated from the floors / risers) for all speakers and power outlets to minimize holes

- Surface mounted boxes for all sconces to minimize holes


Audio:

- Anthem Statement P5

- Anthem Statement D2

- Anthem Statement D1 (3 other zones)

- Emotiva XPA-2 (2 rear channels)

- Outlaw 7125 (3 other zones)


Video:

- JVC DLA-RS4910 Projector

- Oppo BDP-105D

- Stuart Firehawk power screen 2.40:1, 123" diagonal

- Playstation 3


Fronts:

- Wisdom Insight 4i


Surrounds / Rears:

- Wisdom Insight 2i


Subs:

- 2 x Paradigm RVC-SQ with back boxes

- 1 x Paradigm Reference Servo v2


----------



## agrsiv95

In short the only way is to go to a D2v for true 7.1. Setting the Oppo to output PCM and the D2 to PLIIx is the best way to do it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The original D2 is limited to 5.1 Input. It can raise that to 7.1 speaker output by math (PLIIx), but it can not accept 7.1 input.


7.1 input via HDMI is available in the newer D2v.


This is a hardware limitation in the original D2 -- can not be changed via firmware.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24624902
> 
> 
> Still waiting on any information regarding my previous issue. Currently I still get EDID problems between the D2v intermittently. It seems that if I set my cable box to 720p then every channel comes through perfectly and is outputed as it should at 720p. If I set the cable box to 1080i then for some reason channel 4 does not come through. This does not seem to occur on any other channel. The cable box keeps switching back to the default 1080i setting even if I manually set it to 720p (rather stupid and annoying imo).
> 
> 
> I do not understand why the damn D2v started doing this. I have switched HDMI cables and I still run into the same problem. I have tried every setting imaginable in the D2v. Changing resolution formats, changing video settings, etc, etc.
> 
> 
> I need some opinions on this from any one. I can try a different firmware I guess. I am using 3.09J currently. Please help!!!



The HDMI 1-4 inputs use separate hardware from the HDMI 5-8 inputs. Try switching to the other bank of inputs.

--Bob


----------



## stevekappy

agrsiv95, Bob,


Thanks for the quick responses. Is it possible to upgrade the D2 to a D2v?


I am trying every which way to keep the Anthem in the theatre.


Thanks again,


-Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *stevekappy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42690#post_24627352
> 
> 
> agrsiv95, Bob,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick responses. Is it possible to upgrade the D2 to a D2v?
> 
> 
> I am trying every which way to keep the Anthem in the theatre.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> 
> -Steve



Too much hardware changes out to do an "upgrade". For a while Anthem was running a factory sponsored trade-in program, but that ended a long time ago.


You have two options: Work a deal with your Anthem dealer, or sell the D2 privately (e.g., on Audiogon) and purchase a D2v separately.


By the way, although this is slowly changing, you should be aware that many of the Blu-ray titles sold as 7.1 really only had 5.1 theatrical release mixes. I.e., they've been processed up to 7.1 for Blu-ray marketing purposes. So don't be too quick to discount the option of keeping the D2 you already have. Let the OPPO do the down-mix to 5.1 LPCM output for 7.1 tracks (which happens automatically for HDMI audio, or by selecting that setting in the OPPO for multi-channel analog). Then set your D2 to raise that to 7.1 speakers using PLIIx-Movie.


I think you'll be pleasant surprised.


There ARE tracks out there with aggressive positioning of audio in the Rear channels of course, but fewer than you might expect. Also, some discs come with both a 7.1 and a 5.1 lossless track. For those, select the 5.1 track -- and still let your D2 raise that up to 7.1 speakers output.


Note that if you do switch to a D2v you get other things in addition to 7.1 input. For example you get 192KHz audio input (the D2 is limited to 96KHz). Blu-ray music discs can take advantage of that. You also get an improved audio output stage, improved video processing, and more HDMI Input sockets.


I'm assuming you already have ARC for your D2. If not, you should *DEFINITELY* get that -- the kit costs about $400 -- no hardware change needed in the D2. If you sell the D2, be sure to mention that it comes with the ARC kit, as early D2 units were not bundled with that.

--Bob


----------



## runninkyle17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42690#post_24627340
> 
> 
> The HDMI 1-4 inputs use separate hardware from the HDMI 5-8 inputs. Try switching to the other bank of inputs.
> 
> --Bob



I have done that. Same problem occurs. Again I have tried every different combo and fix I can think of. I guess I need to just get different firmwares from Anthem and see which ones work


----------



## stevekappy

Bob,


I have been listening in THX Ultra2 mode but felt like I should get more. I will try Dolby IIx Movie tonight. It sounded great out of the box and I have not applied ARC yet. I have been finishing up some minor details on the room before I calibrate it via ARC because I know I will not get to it after I apply ARC. I bought the ARC for my D1 but my D2 came with it.


I am reviewing all of the "multiple sub" tuning guides in this thread before I apply ARC because as you mentioned in one of your posts, all of the sub outputs are exactly the same. I want to make sure I get the mains and three subs all in phase before ARC. I am a little confused at level matching vs gain matching as the final step before ARC. To add more insult to injury, it looks like the Radio Shack SPL meter I bought last night is broken from the start. I think it is just time to plug up the mic and let the chips fall where they may.


I did not realize there were that many differences between the D2 and D2V. I wish I would have upgraded when I had the chance (ether one of the preamps). Right now, I am still paying for the theatre so a new preamp is out of the question.


Thanks again for all of your assistance. It has saved me many a weeks tweaking and tuning.


-Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ After you get ARC set up, I think you'll find you are happier NOT adding the THX post processing as part of your surround sound Mode.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42690#post_24627780
> 
> 
> I have done that. Same problem occurs. Again I have tried every different combo and fix I can think of. I guess I need to just get different firmwares from Anthem and see which ones work




At this point it might pay to tell us what cable tv system and the make and model of your Cable set top box. Some forum members may have experience with it. And also call Anthem support. They may have previous experience with the same set up.


----------



## runninkyle17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42690#post_24628766
> 
> 
> At this point it might pay to tell us what cable tv system and the make and model of your Cable set top box. Some forum members may have experience with it. And also call Anthem support. They may have previous experience with the same set up.



That is just the thing, this is a new problem when nothing in my system has changed at all.


Panasonic VT50 plasma

Scientific Atlanta cable box (Cox cable)

Anthem D2v (obviously)

Custom HTPC (using Dr. HDMI for the input from the HTPC, this has worked perfectly for as long as I have had the D2v)


Again, this setup has not changed at all. The only thing that has changed is the 3D board upgrade. I have contacted Anthem support and they were really not much help. I will contact them again to get some different firmware versions since that is the only thing that I can think of to be the main issue.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The other possibility is that new firmware was pushed to the Scientific Atlanta box without your realizing it. HDMI implementations in these set top boxes are pretty notorious for being flaky.


Another thing you can try is to see if you can swap out your current Cox / Scientific Atlanta box for a newer model. In my experience with Comcast's Motorola boxes, sometimes that's the only practical solution.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42690#post_24630883
> 
> 
> ^ The other possibility is that new firmware was pushed to the Scientific Atlanta box without your realizing it. HDMI implementations in these set top boxes are pretty notorious for being flaky.
> 
> 
> Another thing you can try is to see if you can swap out your current Cox / Scientific Atlanta box for a newer model. In my experience with Comcast's Motorola boxes, sometimes that's the only practical solution.
> 
> --Bob




Excellent suggestion and 100% on the money about the SA boxes. They have a long history of problems.

Cox may be able to visit your house and try a different SA box or a different manufacturer if possible.


----------



## runninkyle17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42690#post_24630883
> 
> 
> ^ The other possibility is that new firmware was pushed to the Scientific Atlanta box without your realizing it. HDMI implementations in these set top boxes are pretty notorious for being flaky.
> 
> 
> Another thing you can try is to see if you can swap out your current Cox / Scientific Atlanta box for a newer model. In my experience with Comcast's Motorola boxes, sometimes that's the only practical solution.
> 
> --Bob



That is a good suggestion. I honestly would not put it past Cox to have pushed buggy firmware out to the SA box. They have this new "contour" crap that they are pushing which requires a box "upgrade" in addition to additional fees. I will talk to them about it and see what they offer. If anything, I can just use my HDhomerun that I have been putting off installing.


----------



## Michael&Klipsch

Hello all, just wondering if after I have run arc for the first time in my theater on the D2v version 3.09 I went in and manually set the xo on my speakers to be at 80hz. I run all Klipsch THX ultra 2 speakers and wanted to have them xo at 80hz. Arc set them to 65 but I didn’t want them that low. I checked and see arc eq is still on and saved to my source main/dvd and it sounds incredible I just want to know if I ruined anything arc did by setting the xo under speaker configuration to 80hz. Also on the remote control I upped the db on the subwoofer by about 4db so they didn’t sound so flat is this ok as well or did this affect arc? Thanks for any input its my first time with the amazing D2v. I can say that when I turn arc off the room doesn’t sound nearly as incredible as with it on but I just want to double check that it is ok what I did.


----------



## Michael&Klipsch

I doubt by raising the DB via the remote on the fly like the subwoofer or lfe content or the rears that would affect arc but I wanted to make sure setting th xo to 80 on the left right and center speaker it wouldn’t affect it. I have a very well treated room with acoustic panels etc. but arc nearly perfected the audio experience and made an almost perfect line near the target on the graphs. I have turned arc off and can hear how much of a difference it makes. I turned it back on and back into audio nirvana. I didn’t touch anything else on filets or anything like that I just manually measured for each speaker and input that data then ran arc in exactly as it was supposed to run and then afterword’s set the xo on the mains to 80 is all.


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42660#post_24624902
> 
> 
> Still waiting on any information regarding my previous issue. Currently I still get EDID problems between the D2v intermittently. It seems that if I set my cable box to 720p then every channel comes through perfectly and is outputed as it should at 720p. If I set the cable box to 1080i then for some reason channel 4 does not come through. This does not seem to occur on any other channel. The cable box keeps switching back to the default 1080i setting even if I manually set it to 720p (rather stupid and annoying imo).
> 
> 
> I do not understand why the damn D2v started doing this. I have switched HDMI cables and I still run into the same problem. I have tried every setting imaginable in the D2v. Changing resolution formats, changing video settings, etc, etc.
> 
> 
> I need some opinions on this from any one. I can try a different firmware I guess. *I am using 3.09J currently*. Please help!!!



3.09g/h/j betas are being used by D2v owners *without* the 3D board.


The v3.10 official firmware on the Anthem website is the latest firmware for D2v's *with* the 3D board. Have you tried v3.10 ??


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael&Klipsch*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42690#post_24631249
> 
> 
> I just want to know if I ruined anything arc did by setting the xo under speaker configuration to 80hz.



If you changed the xo in the Anthem's SETUP menu after uploading the ARC solution then you broke ARC. You are supposed to change it in the Targets menu in the ARC software, before calculating and uploading the solution.


----------



## runninkyle17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42690#post_24632034
> 
> 
> 3.09g/h/j betas are being used by D2v owners *without* the 3D board.
> 
> 
> The v3.10 official firmware on the Anthem website is the latest firmware for D2v's *with* the 3D board. Have you tried v3.10 ??



I did use v3.10 and I had problems with that firmware also. It actually messed up more often than my current firmware. I switched back to the v3.09J version for a reason.


----------



## Michael&Klipsch

Thank you I will re run arc and do this in the target menu. If I increase the db on the remote for the subs does this break arc also. For example after arc is complete and I upload ad save it. Then. I increase the db on the remote?


----------



## Michael&Klipsch

I'm sorry if I sound like an idiot but its my first time using it. Where exactly do I specify that I want them at 80hxz? Would it be on the laptop arc software afternoon get my results / graphs that I can specify?


----------



## AVfile

No sweat Michael. Do not waste your time re-measuring unless you have moved speakers or furniture in the room. When you start ARC SOFTWARE instead of selecting Automatic (recommended) select Manual or Open Existing file. Open the file it saved last time you ran ARC. Then you will see your charts and all the menu options. Press the Targets button and adjust your cutoffs (these are similar to crossovers but have special meaning to the ARC algorithms). Then press Calculate and see what it does to your charts. If you are satisfied press Upload.


Note you can have two configurations based on the one set of measurements. I suggest leaving the Movie config as ARC set it, no fiddling. Enable the separate Music config and use this one for your own THX settings, as described above. When you upload you will have two bass manager settings to use. You can setup two SOURCE inputs to use both (eg: DVD1 for Movie & DVD2 for Music) and switch them on the fly to see which you prefer.


As for increasing LFE with the trim button that is OK but you shouldn't have to. Another way to make the sound warmer is to increase Room Gain slightly, also in the Targets window. Again press Calculate to see what it does to the charts before Uploading. I think most of us do not need to play with this though.


----------



## Michael&Klipsch

Thank you for the information. Wed night I have some time to spend In my theater and I’ll bring up my graphs that ARC made and make the adjustments and upload them into arc. As for the sound being warmer that I wouln’d do as it sounded incredible before I changed the xo manually and I enjoy the neutral sound it made. I’ll just set the xo in the target page then upload the data and leave it be. As for the subwoofer volume on the remote I only put it up a touch maybe 3-4db but that is all. ARC created an incredibly flat response which is wonderful across the board I just preferred a touch more bass from my 4 subwoofers. Thanks so much for the information AVS has been an invaluable tool over the years of researching everything


----------



## slots1

Bob or anyone else

Since I now have the sony 600es projector, I ordered from my dealer the 3d board.

I have not run ARC since i got my power mac a year and half ago.

I have been running windows under parallels with very good results.

When I read the anthem instruction manual on line it said you could not use parallels.

Had to use boot camp.

What is everyones experience?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I use Boot Camp. I've also seen posts from folks using VMWare Fusion. I don't know what the issue might be with Parallels, but it certainly wouldn't hurt to try to use it. The Windows ARC app doesn't make any complicated demands of the Windows environment, It needs to be able to use the mic audio input framework to hear the data from the mic, and it needs to handle whatever you are using for serial connection to the Anthem -- usual a USB to Serial adapter like the Keyspan USA-19HS. If either of those don't work it will be an obvious failure. The point is, it won't APPEAR to work but give you bad results. So you might as well just try it.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42690#post_24634883
> 
> 
> Bob or anyone else
> 
> Since I now have the sony 600es projector, I ordered from my dealer the 3d board.
> 
> I have not run ARC since i got my power mac a year and half ago.
> 
> I have been running windows under parallels with very good results.
> 
> When I read the anthem instruction manual on line it said you could not use parallels.
> 
> Had to use boot camp.
> 
> What is everyones experience?



I too use Boot Camp. My recollection—and I may be incorrect in this—is that it has some potential with the audio drivers. When you are in bootcamp, everything is dedicated to the windows OS as opposed to Parallels where you are running an intermediary or virtual interface. This may or may not still be an issue as Parallels has gone through several versions. You can always query Anthem support and see what the current thinking is now.


----------



## slots1

yes I sent nick an email to see what is the current status.


----------



## slots1

can you have parallels and boot camp running on the mac


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42690#post_24637289
> 
> 
> can you have parallels and boot camp running on the mac


Yes you can


----------



## Michael&Klipsch

Just an update I pulled up the original files on my laptop and went into the target window made adjustment to have the xo set to 80hz for the LCR and uploaded. Sounds fantastic. No I will not touch it and only adjust trim on the remote if need be. Will adjusting the bass or treble on the remote break ARC? Id like to leave the treble but maybe add +2 to the bass? Please let me know fellas as I don’t want o break ARC like I did last time. Thanks.


----------



## Kris Deering

I typically don't use the bass controls to add bass but rather use the sub trim from the remote to boost the low end. Try that instead and see what you think. The sub trim is also input type specific so if you only want a boost in bass for stereo vs DTS, the trim only applies to stereo sources and not universal.


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael&Klipsch*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42690#post_24647771
> 
> 
> Just an update I pulled up the original files on my laptop and went into the target window made adjustment to have the xo set to 80hz for the LCR and uploaded. Sounds fantastic. No I will not touch it and only adjust trim on the remote if need be. Will adjusting the bass or treble on the remote break ARC? Id like to leave the treble but maybe add +2 to the bass? Please let me know fellas as I don’t want o break ARC like I did last time. Thanks.



What is your Room Gain in the Targets window?


----------



## Michael&Klipsch

Ill have to check ill let you know shortly I didn't touch the tool gain though before uploading I'm not a huge fan of warm sound so I left it as arc set it. Ill post my graphs too


----------



## Michael&Klipsch

My charts and target window.


----------



## Michael&Klipsch




----------



## Michael&Klipsch




----------



## tngiloy

Its a little hard to read your charts and target page. You might try 'snipping tool' or similar tool to capture your graphs,

If I do see correctly, it appears your room gain is 1.xx. Before trying to raise your sub level first try raising your 'room gain' up to between 2.5 to 3.5 and recalculate>upload and see what you think. Raising your room gain will boost the bass, but allow ARC to control the boost and better blend the boost between your other speakers.


ARC usually sets my room gain between 3-4 for movies (5.1) and music (2.1) in my set up, and I find the bass to be very good. To my tastes anyway.


Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24649043
> 
> 
> Its a little hard to read your charts and target page. You might try 'snipping tool' or similar tool to capture your graphs,
> 
> If I do see correctly, it appears your room gain is 1.xx. Before trying to raise your sub level first try raising your 'room gain' up to between 2.5 to 3.5 and recalculate>upload and see what you think. Raising your room gain will boost the bass, but allow ARC to control the boost and better blend the boost between your other speakers.
> 
> 
> ARC usually sets my room gain between 3-4 for movies (5.1) and music (2.1) in my set up, and I find the bass to be very good. To my tastes anyway.
> 
> 
> Tom



Tom his gain is 3.80


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24649876
> 
> 
> Tom his gain is 3.80



thestewman,

My fault. I didn't click on the image--just tried to change my internet settings to 200% and could not read it clearly. Duh.

3.8 should be plenty of room gain.


Michael&Klipsch,

You may want to try setting your subs to 'flat' in the 'advanced' section at the bottom of the targets page. This may help a little, especially with LFE. Just be sure that your sub has built in protection before applying the 'flat' setting. Most subs are protected, but if your concerned please check first.


It is also possible that you have always set your subs too high and have come to accept that as normal. Complaints of bass being too low are fairly common after doing a room equalization, whether its ARC or Audyssey or whatever, since it sets it to the 'industry standards'. Its similar to when people have their displays calibrated and they complain that the picture is too dark after years of being used to watching the picture at the 'torch' setting that is the default for most displays. Or going on a 'no added salt' diet after years of piling salt on all your food. It takes time for us to adjust to new levels.

You are, of course, free to change your settings to whatever you want. But I would suggest that you listen for a while at the standardized levels ARC has chosen for a week or so and let your ears get used to that level. You may like it. But if you still don't like it then raise it to whatever level you enjoy the most.


Tom


----------



## tngiloy

Hey Guys,

I moved my center speaker this week and re-ran ARC. I usually set my subs to flat in the Targets window, but this time when I was going to 'flat' I pushed the arrow a second time thinking it would toggle back to 'auto', but it showed '1st order'.







I was able to go all the way to '8th order'. I never noticed it before, but I think its been there for a while since I haven't updated ARC for at least a year.

When I searched this thread I only found one post that addressed the 'orders' by dmusoke, and it just asked what the heck they are, which is the same thing I'm asking. What the heck are they??

I can't find anything in the manual either.

Could someone please explain what the 'orders' are.


Thanks,

Tom


----------



## dmusoke


I did a 5.1 ARC session but now i want to disable the center speaker. Is there a way to do this(and end up with a 4.1 speaker configuration) without repeating the ARC procedure?


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24679626
> 
> 
> I did a 5.1 ARC session but now i want to disable the center speaker. Is there a way to do this(and end up with a 4.1 speaker configuration) without repeating the ARC procedure?



Yes, in Targets, set the Cutoff for Center to "n" for "no speaker".


Accept that Targets change, re-Calculate, and re-Upload.

--bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24679578
> 
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> I moved my center speaker this week and re-ran ARC. I usually set my subs to flat in the Targets window, but this time when I was going to 'flat' I pushed the arrow a second time thinking it would toggle back to 'auto', but it showed '1st order'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to go all the way to '8th order'. I never noticed it before, but I think its been there for a while since I haven't updated ARC for at least a year.
> 
> When I searched this thread I only found one post that addressed the 'orders' by dmusoke, and it just asked what the heck they are, which is the same thing I'm asking. What the heck are they??
> 
> I can't find anything in the manual either.
> 
> Could someone please explain what the 'orders' are.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom



This has to do with the slope of the roll off imposed on the lowest frequencies sent to the Sub. The higher the order, the steeper the slope of the roll off.

--Bob


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24679626
> 
> 
> I did a 5.1 ARC session but now i want to disable the center speaker. Is there a way to do this(and end up with a 4.1 speaker configuration) without repeating the ARC procedure?



If you go to your targets page and replace the crossover for the center speaker with an 'n' it will show 'no speaker' for the center. Hit OK, then recalculate. The center speaker still shows up in the graphs, but there is no blue 'target' or green 'calculated' line, only the red 'measured line.

I have never done this, but I assume when you upload that ARC calculation w/o the center that it would have the center greyed out in the 'speaker configuration' >bass management movie/music.

Having never done this I can only assume that the center channel information would be sent to the fronts.


Are you planning to get rid of your center speaker ?? Or are you using this for music sources?? If you're using it for stereo music you can set the mode to 'Anthem Logic Music' and it will use a 4.1 speaker configuration, but if you are using it for 5.1 encoded movies, ALMusic would not work.


Tom


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24680063
> 
> 
> This has to do with the slope of the roll off imposed on the lowest frequencies sent to the Sub. The higher the order, the steeper the slope of the roll off.
> 
> --Bob


Thanks Bob. I think I'll leave it at 'flat' and let my DSpeaker anti-mode handle the roll off. Funny I never noticed that before though, considering the number of times I've tweaked my ARC calculations.


----------



## slots1

Well, I installed the new 3d board and updated the firmware to my D2v now D2v 3D.

Lots of issues,

I do not know if the codes were changed. Now my RTI with the ipad does not turn the anthem on or off, does not switch inputs, and most important is making a loud machine gun sound out of the speakers. Not always but a lot. This could destroy them.

Any suggestions?

I also did run ARC and it seemed to sound good. Only used five locations. I did forget to set each speaker level at 75db. The charts look pretty good also.


----------



## runninkyle17




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24680117
> 
> 
> Well, I installed the new 3d board and updated the firmware to my D2v now D2v 3D.
> 
> Lots of issues,
> 
> I do not know if the codes were changed. Now my RTI with the ipad does not turn the anthem on or off, does not switch inputs, and most important is making a loud machine gun sound out of the speakers. Not always but a lot. This could destroy them.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> I also did run ARC and it seemed to sound good. Only used five locations. I did forget to set each speaker level at 75db. The charts look pretty good also.



You might have to completely set everything up from scratch again. You can always load factory defaults and see if you are still getting the same issues.


----------



## p.las

I am a happy owner of a avm50v. Using ARC with success.


i does have one question. i like to dial down the treble ( not with THX EQ ) Where is it the best way to do this. In the source setup ( EQ low frek/high frek ) or under tone control on the remote/frontpanel.I have tryed the one in the source setup. But i docent seams to affect the treble. i only use Digital input on the processor. I can see that the one on the remote, is pretty sofisticaded. But i don't know how much of the frekvensy it affect.

any comment


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24680059
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24679626
> 
> 
> I did a 5.1 ARC session but now i want to disable the center speaker. Is there a way to do this(and end up with a 4.1 speaker configuration) without repeating the ARC procedure?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, in Targets, set the Cutoff for Center to "n" for "no speaker".
> 
> 
> Accept that Targets change, re-Calculate, and re-Upload.
> 
> --bob
Click to expand...

 

Thanks Bob ... so will the Anthem re-direct the center channel info into the L/R main speakers or just leave a 'hole' in the middle? Is this new configuration exactly like as though i performed a 4.1 ARC session?

 

 

 


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24680088
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24679626
> 
> 
> I did a 5.1 ARC session but now i want to disable the center speaker. Is there a way to do this(and end up with a 4.1 speaker configuration) without repeating the ARC procedure?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you go to your targets page and replace the crossover for the center speaker with an 'n' it will show 'no speaker' for the center. Hit OK, then recalculate. The center speaker still shows up in the graphs, but there is no blue 'target' or green 'calculated' line, only the red 'measured line.
> 
> I have never done this, but I assume when you upload that ARC calculation w/o the center that it would have the center greyed out in the 'speaker configuration' >bass management movie/music.
> 
> Having never done this I can only assume that the center channel information would be sent to the fronts.
> 
> 
> Are you planning to get rid of your center speaker ?? Or are you using this for music sources?? If you're using it for stereo music you can set the mode to 'Anthem Logic Music' and it will use a 4.1 speaker configuration, but if you are using it for 5.1 encoded movies, ALMusic would not work.
> 
> 
> Tom
Click to expand...

 

 

Thanks Tom ... as for the reason why i want to de-activate my center speaker? I just want to see if i like the new sound without it. Its sometimes too prominent in TV broadcast material to the point of being annoying.


----------



## runninkyle17

I have a DSD question. In looking at the rear of the D2v I see a 6ch analog input (via RCA), but doesn't the D2v accept 7.1 analog input via RCA???


My question comes because I have been looking at the eXaSound E28 and trying to figure out how I would send the 8ch analog output to the D2v. Does the D2v only accept 5.1 channel analog input?? That would just seem really weird to me if it is true.


----------



## dmusoke


PCM inputs Yes to 7.1 audio.... Analog inputs No to 7.1


----------



## p.las




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p.las*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24681428
> 
> 
> I am a happy owner of a avm50v. Using ARC with success.
> 
> 
> i does have one question. i like to dial down the treble ( not with THX EQ ) Where is it the best way to do this. In the source setup ( EQ low frek/high frek ) or under tone control on the remote/frontpanel.I have tryed the one in the source setup. But i docent seams to affect the treble. i only use Digital input on the processor. I can see that the one on the remote, is pretty sofisticaded. But i don't know how much of the frekvensy it affect.
> 
> any comment



any comment - please


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24681964
> 
> 
> I have a DSD question. In looking at the rear of the D2v I see a 6ch analog input (via RCA), but doesn't the D2v accept 7.1 analog input via RCA???
> 
> 
> My question comes because I have been looking at the eXaSound E28 and trying to figure out how I would send the 8ch analog output to the D2v. Does the D2v only accept 5.1 channel analog input?? That would just seem really weird to me if it is true.





The only sources of DSD are, ripped SACDs, or DSD downloads. None are more than 5.1 channels and some classical DSDs are only 3.1 channels. I doubt if you will find any 7.1. material anywhere.

The Exasound does have 8 channel capability because the ESS Technologies ES 9018 Sabre 32 chip has 8 channel capability as a design feature. George from Exasound is the only one using that capability.

By the way I have the e28 and the sound is outstanding.


PS. If you have SACDs I am willing to rip them for you if you pay the freight and supply a hard drive for storage. Turn-a round is very quick.


----------



## runninkyle17

Thanks for the info stew. That makes more sense. I have an old PS3 with the correct firmware so that I can rip SACDs


----------



## dmusoke


ARC set my subwoofer xover to 80Hz even though my new subs can go much higher than 80Hz. My mains are set to 60Hz though are capable down to 40Hz. Is it normal for the sub to crossed low at 80Hz instead of 120Hz? Will i get the full 120+ Hz LFE signal from movies or will it be start to roll off at 80Hz?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *runninkyle17*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24682472
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info stew. That makes more sense. I have an old PS3 with the correct firmware so that I can rip SACDs



OT


That is absolutely the way to go. Incredible difference in sound playing the DSD instead of an Optical SACD playback device.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24682732
> 
> 
> ARC set my subwoofer xover to 80Hz even though my new subs can go much higher than 80Hz. My mains are set to 60Hz though are capable down to 40Hz. Is it normal for the sub to crossed low at 80Hz instead of 120Hz? Will i get the full 120+ Hz LFE signal from movies or will it be start to roll off at 80Hz?



Look at your charts. The rolloff is gradual and so is the cutoff. so there willl be substantial overlap Though the speaker manufacturer specs them at some capable freq ARC is hearing something slightly different.

It could be your room, cables, or your electronics.


----------



## dmusoke


Mains.jpg 434k .jpg file

 

Surr_Subs.jpg 433k .jpg file

 

Targets.jpg 109k .jpg file

 

Music.jpg 340k .jpg file


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24683601
> 
> Mains.jpg 434k .jpg file
> 
> Surr_Subs.jpg 433k .jpg file
> 
> Targets.jpg 109k .jpg file
> 
> Music.jpg 340k .jpg file



Does not look like the Subs and the mains overlap very much.

It also appears the center is not set up correctly either since the low freq cutoff in the ARC target chart is the same as your mains and the center speaker is probably no where near the low frequency capability.

My inclination is that in having ARC set to 20KHz you might be using all the ARC processing power at the other end of the spectrum.

Also make sure you have the sub frequency control set to max or cutoff

Try resetting your max to say 8 or 10 khz and redo ARC


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24684585
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24683601
> 
> Mains.jpg 434k .jpg file
> 
> Surr_Subs.jpg 433k .jpg file
> 
> Targets.jpg 109k .jpg file
> 
> Music.jpg 340k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 
> Does not look like the Subs and the mains overlap very much.
> 
> *Is that good or bad?*
> 
> It also appears the center is not set up correctly either since the low freq cutoff in the ARC target chart is the same as your mains and the center speaker is probably no where near the low frequency capability...
> 
> *What do you mean by not setup correctly?*
> 
> 
> 
> My inclination is that in having ARC set to 20KHz you might be using all the ARC processing power at the other end of the spectrum.
> 
> *OK*
> 
> Also make sure you have the sub frequency control set to max or cutoff
> 
> *it is... Note that the measured sub response goes beyond 300Hz.*
> 
> Try resetting your max to say 8 or 10 khz and redo ARC
> 
> *OK... will do once I get home.*
Click to expand...


----------



## thestewman

Does not look like the Subs and the mains overlap very much.


"Is that good or bad?"



From my amateur viewpoint since I am not a professional its not good. The mains should slowly drop off which they do and the sub go high enough to make a smooth transition


************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************


It also appears the center is not set up correctly either since the low freq cutoff in the ARC target chart is the same as your mains and the center speaker is probably no where near the low frequency capability...


"What do you mean by not setup correctly?"


Maybe used a bad choice of words. What I meant was ARC did a poor job. If your center speaker is like most center speakers it is smaller and with smaller and fwer drivers.

Then you would not expect the center speaker to crossover or have a cutoff as low as you mains.


*************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************


My inclination is that in having ARC set to 20KHz you might be using all the ARC processing power at the other end of the spectrum.


"OK "


**************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************

Also make sure you have the sub frequency control set to max or cutoff


"it is... Note that the measured sub response goes beyond 300Hz."


Sub should probably never go higher than 150 to 180 HZ


*********************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************


----------



## dmusoke


Thanks for clarifying your post Stew...

 

Selecting the center speaker xover point is not a matter of ARC target frequency points, is it? I tried the default 5kHz and the points remained the same.

 

I raised the sub xover to 120Hz last night before I went to bed and will test this solution today once I get home. My new SVS SB13-Ultra's don't perform as expected at an 80Hz xover so far based on some music tests I performed last night.

 

My living room is an audio nightmare. Moving the subs along side the TV wall is not help since I get a huge null starting at 50Hz. The only happy place is almost smack center in the living room







. If it wasn't for the SVS AS-EQ1 subwoofer management system, I would be toast for sure but it managed to time-align the subs correctly to get me the wide FR you see in my plots.


----------



## ninja12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24683601
> 
> Mains.jpg 434k .jpg file
> 
> Surr_Subs.jpg 433k .jpg file
> 
> Targets.jpg 109k .jpg file
> 
> Music.jpg 340k .jpg file


Overall, I think your charts look pretty good. The slight hole that I see is between your Surrounds and your sub. Your Surrounds are crossing over at 90Hz; but, your sub doesn't really kick in until 80Hz. The only real problem that I see is that ARC has set your sub to 80Hz. The goal is to have ARC to set your sub to 120Hz. You should check your sub to make sure all internal crossovers are disabled. Next, you can try playing around with sub placement to see how your sub interact with your room if you move it to another location.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24686688
> 
> 
> Thanks for clarifying your post Stew...
> 
> 
> Selecting the center speaker xover point is not a matter of ARC target frequency points, is it? I tried the default 5kHz and the points remained the same.
> 
> 
> I raised the sub xover to 120Hz last night before I went to bed and will test this solution today once I get home. My new SVS SB13-Ultra's don't perform as expected at an 80Hz xover so far based on some music tests I performed last night.
> 
> 
> My living room is an audio nightmare. Moving the subs along side the TV wall is not help since I get a huge null starting at 50Hz. The only happy place is almost smack center in the living room . If it wasn't for the SVS AS-EQ1 subwoofer management system, I would be toast for sure but it managed to time-align the subs correctly to get me the wide FR you see in my plots.



There is something throwing ARC off its intended course of action. I would suggest you try using ARC without the SVS Ultras as a test to see if it modifies how the crossovers are set.

I am not saying the SVS's are not good just a test without their influence


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24686688
> 
> 
> Selecting the center speaker xover point is not a matter of ARC target frequency points, is it? I tried the default 5kHz and the points remained the same.



I would still keep the Max EQ Freq at 5k for now. There does not appear to be anything nasty that would need correction above 5k in your charts.


It won't help your 80Hz sub issue though. ARC made the decision to set it there based on the measurements, and very neatly achieved that goal as you can see by the green line. The only way to improve that is to move the subs or speakers around, as others have said.


I am guessing you have your left front speaker very close to a corner or at least one wall?


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ninja12*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42750#post_24686808
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, I think your charts look pretty good. The slight hole that I see is between your Surrounds and your sub. Your Surrounds are crossing over at 90Hz; but, your sub doesn't really kick in until 80Hz. The only real problem that I see is that ARC has set your sub to 80Hz. The goal is to have ARC to set your sub to 120Hz. You should check your sub to make sure all internal crossovers are disabled. Next, you can try playing around with sub placement to see how your sub interact with your room if you move it to another location.
Click to expand...

 

All internal xovers are disabled. Unfortunately, my one bedroom apartment doesn't leave much room at all for decent subwoofer placement options. I tried the whole front and side walls. No dice...









 

 


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42750#post_24688285
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42720#post_24686688
> 
> 
> Selecting the center speaker xover point is not a matter of ARC target frequency points, is it? I tried the default 5kHz and the points remained the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would still keep the Max EQ Freq at 5k for now. There does not appear to be anything nasty that would need correction above 5k in your charts.
> 
> 
> It won't help your 80Hz sub issue though. ARC made the decision to set it there based on the measurements, and very neatly achieved that goal as you can see by the green line. The only way to improve that is to move the subs or speakers around, as others have said.
> 
> 
> I am guessing you have your left front speaker very close to a corner or at least one wall?
Click to expand...

 

Left front is 3 feet from the back wall (Xstats need space) and 4 feet from the side wall, which is really a BD/DVD book shelf.  The Spires XStats has a 35Hz gain control knob that is set to its absolute minimum at -10.


----------



## dmusoke


I  think the 80Hz setting by ARC could be due to the steep slope/notch between 60Hz - 80Hz. I overrode the setting and changed it to 120Hz as shown below. Is it right to occasionally change ARC's settings?


----------



## AVfile

^ Yes, what you have done makes sense. Case closed?


----------



## dmusoke


Yes, I believe so .... Thanks for all your help







!

 

Now you'll notice that my graphs are referenced at about 69 - 70 dB. Should I re-ARC to bring it up to the preferred 75dB or is there a way to do it w/o re-ARCing?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42750#post_24693886
> 
> 
> Yes, I believe so .... Thanks for all your help !
> 
> 
> Now you'll notice that my graphs are referenced at about 69 - 70 dB. Should I re-ARC to bring it up to the preferred 75dB or is there a way to do it w/o re-ARCing?




Anthem has stated the levels are not exact and only a reference. They said that ARC will utilize the correct level even when it appears lower in the charts.

Not to worry


----------



## dmusoke


Cool...thx!


----------



## dmusoke


Any reason the "Bypass LFE Xover" setting is set to No by default?

 

The manual says "*With BYPASS LFE XOVER set to YES, LFE goes to the subwoofer without going through the crossover, preventing loss of LFE information. This also applies to 6-CH inputs SUB input(effectivelt an LFE input)*"

 

It would be a no-brainer to set it to YES so why is it set to No?


----------



## kripkrip

*Updated Logitech Harmony database definition for Anthem D2v*


For your information, Logitech has now updated the database definition for the Anthem D2v as per. Bob Pariseau's description in this post:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38200_100#post_22351574 


Big thanks go to Bob Pariseau and the european logitech Harmony support center for getting these changes implemented!










Details:

Digits 0 through 9 has been added with these codes:
1 copy of Preset1
2 copy of Preset2
3 copy of Preset3
4 copy of Preset4
5 copy of Preset5
6 copy of Preset6
7 copy of VideoProcessing
8 copy of Display
9 copy of ToneBypass
0 copy of Dynamics

This means they will now automatically be mapped as buttons for the remote.


3-code direct input added as per Appendix A for:
TV1-4
DVD1-4
SAT1-2
FM1-3
AM


You will still manually need to map the following buttons as explained in this post:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39800_100#post_22852704 
Menu should send Sub/LFE
Exit should send Center
Info should send Center
... others?


Default Power on Delay has been set to 11000ms (11 seconds) as per this post:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38200_100#post_22351574 

You may want to/need to tweak that for your setup as explained in the above post.

Its possible for Harmony support to manually turn on "Scart" option for your Anthem device, which makes the 11 second Power on Delay global. This means Harmony wont attempt to power up and/or control any other devices until the Anthem is completely powered up. I needed this because my XBMC media center PC would not correctly detect the HDMI/EDID settings if it booted up before the Anthem starts sending out HDMI/EDID data. You will have to contact Logitech support for details and help if you need this setting.


This has been tested on Logitech Harmony 900 and Anthem D2v v3.09 software.


----------



## dmusoke


Before .... I had to force ARC to 120Hz for the sub xover from its preferred 80Hz.

 










 

After rotating one sub 90 degrees and the other by 45 degrees ... ARC naturally picked 120Hz as the sub xover







.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42750#post_24702111
> 
> 
> Any reason the "Bypass LFE Xover" setting is set to No by default?
> 
> 
> The manual says "*With BYPASS LFE XOVER set to YES, LFE goes to the subwoofer without going through the crossover, preventing loss of LFE information. This also applies to 6-CH inputs SUB input(effectivelt an LFE input)*"
> 
> 
> It would be a no-brainer to set it to YES so why is it set to No?



First, the Bypass LFE setting is ignored whenever ARC is active for any Source. So no worries. The ARC solution does a more sophisticated version of the same sort of "bypass". (The setting also has no impact during ARC Measurement.)


I've no certain knowledge of why it is defaulted to OFF. As you say, if not using ARC it would seem normal to have it ON. I suspect it was left as OFF when that setting was added so as to not alter things for folks who already had their manual (non-ARC) setup in place.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke


Thanks Bob ... relieved to know ARC ignores this setting when its activated.

 

Now as you see in my above graphs, ARC set the sub to 120Hz in the targets menu but ARC set the SUB/LFE xover to 60Hz in the configuration menu screen. What doe this mean? Does the sub take over at 60Hz or 120Hz?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42750#post_24706130
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob ... relieved to know ARC ignores this setting when its activated.
> 
> 
> Now as you see in my above graphs, ARC set the sub to 120Hz in the targets menu but ARC set the SUB/LFE xover to 60Hz in the configuration menu screen. What doe this mean? Does the sub take over at 60Hz or 120Hz?



Please post the menu screen and targets screen so we can get a better understanding


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42750#post_24706130
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob ... relieved to know ARC ignores this setting when its activated.
> 
> 
> Now as you see in my above graphs, ARC set the sub to 120Hz in the targets menu but ARC set the SUB/LFE xover to 60Hz in the configuration menu screen. What doe this mean? Does the sub take over at 60Hz or 120Hz?



They are two different settings.


The Target setting of 120Hz means ARC is correcting the Sub output up that high, which can be useful for LFE which can include some (not much) content up that high.


The Crossover setting uploaded into Setup has to do with how ARC uses the hardware tools (in conjunction with the Room Correction Parameter processing) to blend steered bass going from the mains to the Sub. It is sufficient to think of that setting as ignored in so far as LFE content is concerned -- just as if LFE Bypass were in effect.


You can force the Target to a value different from what ARC itself selects, but you can't force the Sub Crossover to be different without over-constraining the solution. ARC needs to be able to pick the Sub Crossover itself to match with the Crossovers in effect for the main speakers.


(Please note that if you are following the discussion in the new MRX Receivers thread for the similarly named settings in ARC 2 for those Receivers that the processing, and meaning of the settings is DIFFERENT there.)

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42750#post_24706859
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42750#post_24706130
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob ... relieved to know ARC ignores this setting when its activated.
> 
> 
> Now as you see in my above graphs, ARC set the sub to 120Hz in the targets menu but ARC set the SUB/LFE xover to 60Hz in the configuration menu screen. What doe this mean? Does the sub take over at 60Hz or 120Hz?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please post the menu screen and targets screen so we can get a better understanding
Click to expand...

mains.jpg 441k .jpg file

sub_surrounds.jpg 443k .jpg file

music.jpg 339k .jpg file

Targets.jpg 109k .jpg file


----------



## dmusoke




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42750#post_24707062
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42750#post_24706130
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob ... relieved to know ARC ignores this setting when its activated.
> 
> 
> Now as you see in my above graphs, ARC set the sub to 120Hz in the targets menu but ARC set the SUB/LFE xover to 60Hz in the configuration menu screen. What doe this mean? Does the sub take over at 60Hz or 120Hz?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are two different settings.
> 
> 
> The Target setting of 120Hz means ARC is correcting the Sub output up that high, which can be useful for LFE which can include some (not much) content up that high.
> 
> 
> The Crossover setting uploaded into Setup has to do with how ARC uses the hardware tools (in conjunction with the Room Correction Parameter processing) to blend steered bass going from the mains to the Sub. It is sufficient to think of that setting as ignored in so far as LFE content is concerned -- just as if LFE Bypass were in effect.
> 
> 
> You can force the Target to a value different from what ARC itself selects, but you can't force the Sub Crossover to be different without over-constraining the solution. ARC needs to be able to pick the Sub Crossover itself to match with the Crossovers in effect for the main speakers.
> 
> 
> (Please note that if you are following the discussion in the new MRX Receivers thread for the similarly named settings in ARC 2 for those Receivers that the processing, and meaning of the settings is DIFFERENT there.)
> 
> --Bob
Click to expand...

 

Thanks for the explanation Bob ...

 

So in summary, the Targets xover value for the sub just show how much ARC has corrected for and all LFE will be processed through that filter up to 120Hz. But the 60Hz setting is simply when the mains and sub crossover each other for normal non-LFE based music ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I think of the Sub "Cutoff" as the equivalent of Max EQ Frequency for the Sub.


The Crossover stuff is complicated because ARC is applying multiple tools to the problem of best blending the bass, and the Crossover filters are just one of those tools. But close enough.

--Bob


----------



## tranle

^ Hi Bob,

in dusmoke configuration above is it ok to force all the cross-over for main and surround to for example 80hz (higher the arc recommended 60hz)

if for example we did not want to stress the surround speakers at the lower frequency ?

Or is better to leave the frequencies selected by the arc software ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Sure you can play with those. You don't have to change all of the them. If all you want to do is protect the Surrounds then just change those. Keep an eye on the uncorrected dip just above the Crossover in Right Surround, and see if you can also improve that part of the solution. Reducing Room Gain a bit for Movie -- say down to 3dB -- could help with that as well.


Make any such changes in the Targets window, accept those, re-Calculate, and re-Upload. No need to re-Measure.

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke


I did manage to reduce the error in the right surround but at a cost of lower room gain of 1.5 or so. I figure that since most sound is from the front speakers and little in the surrounds(behind me to the left and right), then they would be safe from damage so i only reduced the gain to 3.0. Changing/increasing the xover helped as well. Thanks again Bob and Tranle


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ That's fine. The residual error is well within reason. Presuming no damage to the solution as shown on the other charts, this looks like a good way to go.

--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater

Does anyone know if it's possible to lockout the front panel buttons to prevent kids from accessing? I can't find anything in the user manual but I wanted to double check.


Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Nope. Put the unit behind a glass front door you can lock (with enough height inside and open in the back for ventilation), and then hide the remote.

--Bob


----------



## Texas steve




> you could sell your kids!   Ha
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42760_40#post_24714475
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if it's possible to lockout the front panel buttons to prevent kids from accessing? I can't find anything in the user manual but I wanted to double check.
> 
> 
> Thanks!


----------



## Thxtheater

T


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42750#post_24714874
> 
> 
> ^ Nope. Put the unit behind a glass front door you can lock (with enough height inside and open in the back for ventilation), and then hide the remote.
> 
> --Bob


thats what I figured. Thanks Bob.


----------



## berkesnd

I’m sure that this topic has been dealt with previously, but with this thread now having over 1400 pages, it’s proved to be difficult to find what I’m looking for. Last years, I updated our surround system with a 7.1 PSB Synchrony speaker system and a Anthem 700 receiver (replacing a 10year old Lexicon/M&K 150 system). I wasn’t expecting a great difference in sound quality (I was looking for HDMI inputs and decoding of the newer multi-channel processing modes), but after setting the system up and running ARC, I was amazed at the difference. The receiver seemed to handle these 4ohm speakers with ease, but was running hot, so I added MCA & A series amps and the sound subtly got even better. Well, if the 700 sounded this good, I could only imagine how much better separates would sound. So, having a very supportive and understanding wife, I sold the 700 and purchased a AVM 50v processor. The flexibility, video quality, and general build quality of the AVM is excellent. Movies sound wonderful with excellent imaging. However, I am disappointed in 2 channel music. Although the AVM has gotten rave reviews for its sound quality, I feel the 700 was more transparent and less edgy than the AVM. To my ears, music has a harshness to it and I find myself, after a relatively short time, fatigued by it.. I have searched the web for comparisons between the AVM and the D2v, but have found very little on the topic. Someone noted that the AVM has superior video processing over the D2v, but I find that hard to believe as they are both using the same video processing components. So, the question is: Does t he D2v offer superior 2 channel audio? Is there a sacrifice in video processing quality by going to the D2v? Obviously, the best solution is to listen to one, but that is proving rather difficult as my dealer does not have a D2v on the floor for comparison or evaluation. However, before I take another blind plunge, it would be helpful to get some feedback regarding these questions. So, thanks to any or all who respond to this posting.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *berkesnd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42750#post_24718462
> 
> 
> I’m sure that this topic has been dealt with previously, but with this thread now having over 1400 pages, it’s proved to be difficult to find what I’m looking for. Last years, I updated our surround system with a 7.1 PSB Synchrony speaker system and a Anthem 700 receiver (replacing a 10year old Lexicon/M&K 150 system). I wasn’t expecting a great difference in sound quality (I was looking for HDMI inputs and decoding of the newer multi-channel processing modes), but after setting the system up and running ARC, I was amazed at the difference. The receiver seemed to handle these 4ohm speakers with ease, but was running hot, so I added MCA & A series amps and the sound subtly got even better. Well, if the 700 sounded this good, I could only imagine how much better separates would sound. So, having a very supportive and understanding wife, I sold the 700 and purchased a AVM 50v processor. The flexibility, video quality, and general build quality of the AVM is excellent. Movies sound wonderful with excellent imaging. However, I am disappointed in 2 channel music. Although the AVM has gotten rave reviews for its sound quality, I feel the 700 was more transparent and less edgy than the AVM. To my ears, music has a harshness to it and I find myself, after a relatively short time, fatigued by it.. I have searched the web for comparisons between the AVM and the D2v, but have found very little on the topic. Someone noted that the AVM has superior video processing over the D2v, but I find that hard to believe as they are both using the same video processing components. So, the question is: Does t he D2v offer superior 2 channel audio? Is there a sacrifice in video processing quality by going to the D2v? Obviously, the best solution is to listen to one, but that is proving rather difficult as my dealer does not have a D2v on the floor for comparison or evaluation. However, before I take another blind plunge, it would be helpful to get some feedback regarding these questions. So, thanks to any or all who respond to this posting.



Athem has stated several times to various forum members that the main difference between the two units is in the design and use of higher cost parts in the D2V analog section.

Also the D2v is designed to handle and upscale to 24/192 and the AVM50v only goes to 24/96.


Have you tried using 2 channel analog direct to eliminate any digital artifacts or are all your sources digital ?


I would hesitate any upgrade of units with so many changes in video and audio formats and technology that should be happening in the near future.

HDMI is going to 2.0 and HDCP is also changing to 2.2.

4K has to be in the Anthem lineup soon as well as hirez audio formats like DSD that almost all other manufacturers have included aleady.


----------



## berkesnd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42750#post_24718884
> 
> 
> Athem has stated several times to various forum members that the main difference between the two units is in the design and use of higher cost parts in the D2V analog section.
> 
> Also the D2v is designed to handle and upscale to 24/192 and the AVM50v only goes to 24/96.
> 
> 
> Have you tried using 2 channel analog direct to eliminate any digital artifacts or are all your sources digital ?
> 
> 
> I would hesitate any upgrade of units with so many changes in video and audio formats and technology that should be happening in the near future.
> 
> HDMI is going to 2.0 and HDCP is also changing to 2.2.
> 
> 4K has to be in the Anthem lineup soon as well as hirez audio formats like DSD that almost all other manufacturers have included aleady.



You make some good points. I have tried using the analogue inputs, but with similar results. The real question for me is why the AVM does not sound at least as good as the 700 with music.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *berkesnd*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42750#post_24719163
> 
> 
> You make some good points. I have tried using the analogue inputs, but with similar results. The real question for me is why the AVM does not sound at least as good as the 700 with music.



After thinking about it further what you are saying does not make sense unless your AVM50v is not working properly.

If you take any known good audio source and feed the analog stereo output to the Anthem using 2 channel analog direct there should be zero influence to the sound as Anthem completely bypasses everything except the volume control opamps.

If you change the source to Analog Digital you may lose some of the soundstage and a slight bit of edginess or courseness as you add a digital stage to the processing,


----------



## AVfile

I agree, Stew. I went from a Lexicon RV-8 to the 50v and was impressed, right out of the box before even running ARC. If there was any harshness I would have noticed it coming from the rich sounding Lexicon. I find the MRX a bit lean sounding but I have only heard it in friends' houses.


While the upsampling DAC in the D2v might sweeten the sound a bit more, I can't imagine it being worth the now $3k price difference. Video wise they are equal unless someone was comparing 50v to D2 (old non-v model).


----------



## gerard1meehan

I have a question for the peanut gallery,


As I am reading it the 2nd HDMI output on the D2v is married to the same output as the 1st. I was hoping to be able to use the HDMI 2 as the output for Zone 2.


Am I reading it correctly? Is there a way to implement?


----------



## shane panner


Hello I'm new to this forum. Great info! Ive had my Anthem D2v in storage for the last few years. I got it all set up now and ready to do all my updates. Now when I try and run the ARC setup.exe i get an error message. "unable to locate app file ARC setup.msi" not sure what to do. Using a new laptop only about 6 months old. Also does anyone have the instructions on installing and running the new updates for the ARC and the D2V? Sorry just been awhile.

 

Please help.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42780#post_24721027
> 
> I have a question for the peanut gallery,
> 
> 
> As I am reading it the 2nd HDMI output on the D2v is married to the same output as the 1st. I was hoping to be able to use the HDMI 2 as the output for Zone 2.
> 
> 
> Am I reading it correctly? Is there a way to implement?


Yes you're reading this correctly. You need to put a matrix switcher at the source-level to accomplish what you're proposing. That's what I'm doing to feed HDMI to a 2nd and 3rd zone and it works just fine.


----------



## gerard1meehan

I see,


I had a thought of converting the component out for Zone 2 to HDMI. But your solution would be favorable.


Thanks


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gerard1meehan*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42780#post_24736468
> 
> 
> I see,
> 
> 
> I had a thought of converting the component out for Zone 2 to HDMI. But your solution would be favorable.
> 
> 
> Thanks


Aside from possible EDID issues with the HDMI connection it works flawlessly solved the EDID issues with Dr. HDMI. You can search the thread for that earlier discussion.


I do a three zone matrix.


----------



## shah993

Pardon my ignorance but I cannot understand how it works.If I put the matrix switch at the source then where do I hook up the output from the switch for zone 2.Would appreciate if you can elaborate a little bit.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shah993*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42780#post_24741033
> 
> 
> Pardon my ignorance but I cannot understand how it works.If I put the matrix switch at the source then where do I hook up the output from the switch for zone 2.Would appreciate if you can elaborate a little bit.


No problem.


Let's assume a 4x4 matrix. 4 source and 4 independent switchable outputs.


Put all 4 sources into the matrix source inputs. Plug in output 1 to the anthem (let's say Anthem HDMI input 1), matrix Output 2 to zone 2. Matrix Output 3 to zone 3 etc.


You want to watch source 1 on anthem then you press source 1 on Matrix and output 1 so source 1 is going to matrix output 1. (Matrix output 1 goes to Anthem).


Anthem doesn't need to switch it's input and says on the matrix input. You then want to play source 2 on anthem then you switch to source 2 output 1 on matrix and anthem stays put at source input 1.


Now same holds true for zone 2. You go source 1 output 2 on matrix, etc etc.


If you want Anthem to have audio for zones 2 or three then you purchase a matrix switcher with analog audio out or purchase another device that takes the HDMI and splits it. I follow this blog and it's given me some ideas and relate to what you're talking about http://www.pooraudiophile.com . The dude there had some pretty neat tricks with HDMI stuff and problem solving. Between that site and this forum it helped me a lot with EDID issues and saved me from going crazy with everything.


----------



## shah993

Thanks I get now and will try it this weekend


----------



## TREVLAN

Hello everyone,



its been a while, long while. I have been away for a few years and coming back to the HT side of things seems like I have missed out and have been out of the loop.

I never had the chance to upgrade to the 50v, i still own the 50 w/ARC. i have moved a few things around reARCed using the firmware 1.33 and ARC 1.2.5.0 seems this is the last update for both.

I still get the dreded "hissing" when playing back a bluray while turning on the PS3 or the ps4 and turning it off and it also happens during the load up menu.....was no fix ever made for this?


no for my ARC, i have some room treatment and the charts are near perfect however i feel it is too "bright" at -25 it is loud and as i go higher it seems to be annoying i used to be able to play -20 -15 and it was clean and clear, now its loud and clear but not perfectly clear....am i making any sence? LOL


----------



## TREVLAN

I cant seem to find out how to load jpg's i used to be able to?


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42780#post_24743130
> 
> 
> I cant seem to find out how to load jpg's i used to be able to?



Where were you loading JPEGs into?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TREVLAN*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42780#post_24743121
> 
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> 
> 
> its been a while, long while. I have been away for a few years and coming back to the HT side of things seems like I have missed out and have been out of the loop.
> 
> I never had the chance to upgrade to the 50v, i still own the 50 w/ARC. i have moved a few things around reARCed using the firmware 1.33 and *ARC 1.2.5.0* seems this is the last update for both.
> 
> I still get the dreded "hissing" when playing back a bluray while turning on the PS3 or the ps4 and turning it off and it also happens during the load up menu.....was no fix ever made for this?
> 
> 
> no for my ARC, i have some room treatment and the charts are near perfect however i feel it is too "bright" at -25 it is loud and as i go higher it seems to be annoying i used to be able to play -20 -15 and it was clean and clear, now its loud and clear but not perfectly clear....am i making any sence? LOL



ARC 3.0.2 is the latest firmware. You may want to try that firmware and see if it helps.

Please post your charts and targets for more constructive help.


Tom


----------



## PeterAVM50

Apologies if this is up somewhere else but I've hunted for half an hour and I'm throwing in the towel....


I've got a D2V (newly minted with 3D upgrade!) that I'm trying to set up to trigger a CIMA Stewart screen when watching TV/DVD etc. It looks like the 12V trigger outs on the anthem pres are all discrete (indicating the trigger is "ON" at 12V until the trigger turns off by power or source select change) which is the type of trigger the screen needs. But the 12V trigger plug for the D2V is a 3.5mm mono and the input trigger on the CIMA screen is a 4pin RJ25 (telephone type) jack. I suppose wire terminations are just that and I should be able to rig up a cable with the right terminations on either end but anyone have experience with this? Would love input (pun intended)


Thanks in advance


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The pinout for the Trigger jack is in the Anthem Manual, in the Specifications page at the end of the Manual -- "tip" is positive and "sleeve" is ground. You'll need to know which pins the other device is expecting for 12V and Ground.


Buy a pair of cables (one Mono min and the other RJ25) cut one end off of each, strip it back and connect the two wires that matter between them. Test with a continuity meter to double check you've connected the right wires.


The Trigger is a simple, static 12 volts DC, either present or not. You don't need any fancy or shielded cabling to accomplish that so a simple jury-rig like this will work just fine. You can simply twist-connect the two bare wires at each cut end using those little plastic twist-on caps that look like small thimbles.

--Bob


----------



## PeterAVM50

Thanks Bob. Good ol' wire nuts to the rescue, ay? I'll give that a shot. I need to go to radio shack to score a meter but all else should be pretty straightforward - the CIMA screen manual lays out what needs to be wired up to the RJ25 pretty clearly. Will report back results.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If you have any problem, double-check that the Mono mini plug is fully inserted at the Anthem end. They can be a bit stubborn.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterAVM50*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42780#post_24755104
> 
> 
> Apologies if this is up somewhere else but I've hunted for half an hour and I'm throwing in the towel....
> 
> 
> I've got a D2V (newly minted with 3D upgrade!) that I'm trying to set up to trigger a CIMA Stewart screen when watching TV/DVD etc. It looks like the 12V trigger outs on the anthem pres are all discrete (indicating the trigger is "ON" at 12V until the trigger turns off by power or source select change) which is the type of trigger the screen needs. But the 12V trigger plug for the D2V is a 3.5mm mono and the input trigger on the CIMA screen is a 4pin RJ25 (telephone type) jack. I suppose wire terminations are just that and I should be able to rig up a cable with the right terminations on either end but anyone have experience with this? Would love input (pun intended)
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterAVM50*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42780#post_24756762
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob. Good ol' wire nuts to the rescue, ay? I'll give that a shot. I need to go to radio shack to score a meter but all else should be pretty straightforward - the CIMA screen manual lays out what needs to be wired up to the RJ25 pretty clearly. Will report back results.



You may probably know but be aware there are 2 trigger connections at 50ma and 1 at 200ma. You might want to check on the draw of the Stewart screen trigger before deciding which connection to use.


----------



## JDCaduceus

Dear All -


Recent Anthem D2v3d purchaser - hooked up hdmi inputs (all hmdi cables Hdmi 1.4) one hdmi out cable (1.4) to tv. I have one HTPC with HDMI out to Anthem d2v3d. I power up and I get no picture, nothing. I have rebooted, HTPC, TV and Anthem to see if it needed to resync with HDMI and still no picture. The D2v3d is set to DVD1 (dont know why this is exactly since I have not assigned anything yet and all I have for video sources is my HTPC at HIDMI 1 input.


I know this must be something I am doing wrong. Any help in getting this fixed would be greatly appreciated. I cant imagine the HDMI output would not be working but stranger things have happened - this unit is 5 days old!! FYI the OSD for anthem does not show up on my tv at all - so I have to think this is Anthem HDMI output issue. Maybe someone can tell me how to restore to factory defaults so I can start again (I barely made any changes at all to begin with).


thanks

Conrad


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JDCaduceus*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42780#post_24758618
> 
> 
> Dear All -
> 
> 
> Recent Anthem D2v3d purchaser - hooked up hdmi inputs (all hmdi cables Hdmi 1.4) one hdmi out cable (1.4) to tv. I have one HTPC with HDMI out to Anthem d2v3d. I power up and I get no picture, nothing. I have rebooted, HTPC, TV and Anthem to see if it needed to resync with HDMI and still no picture. The D2v3d is set to DVD1 (dont know why this is exactly since I have not assigned anything yet and all I have for video sources is my HTPC at HIDMI 1 input.
> 
> 
> I know this must be something I am doing wrong. Any help in getting this fixed would be greatly appreciated. I cant imagine the HDMI output would not be working but stranger things have happened - this unit is 5 days old!! FYI the OSD for anthem does not show up on my tv at all - so I have to think this is Anthem HDMI output issue. Maybe someone can tell me how to restore to factory defaults so I can start again (I barely made any changes at all to begin with).
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> Conrad



Using your remote control, press and hold the sub/lfe button or the menu button for 3 seconds. Your unit should enter the setup menu, but since you cannot get the onscreen menu you will have to look at the front panel display. Using the up and down buttons on your remote go to #13-SAVE/LOAD SETTINGS. No go down to e-LOAD FACTORY DEFAULTS > Yes.

This will get you back to where you can start set up again.


My guess is that you will need to go thru the setup menu step by step to get your unit up and running.


The Anthems are a little tricky to set up if you haven't done it before, but if you read the manual and go step by step it will make sense.

There are many here who will be happy to help.


BTW-make sure you are using HDMI 1 out from the Anthem to your monitor-- The OSD does not work from HDMI 2 from the D2v.

Also, the Anthem will start up in DVD1 as default you will need to assign (and rename if you wish) and setup the inputs.


Tom


----------



## slots1

bob or whoever else

same problems as above.

put in the new 3d board...

nothing but problems...

apple tv working fine, uverse working fine..

my media server with all my movies at first was every couple seconds blacking out. Now it is completely out. Sounds is fine.

I have tried going from 12 bit to 8 bit. going from studio rgb to 4:4;4; and 4:2:2 nothing works... any suggestions. I have not reload factory defaults

My video output is the sony 600es 3d projector.

gerry


----------



## AVfile

Gerry I just got a sony 95es projector and it does not always work with Source Setup video output set to THROUGH. It is ok if the source is my Oppo player but not the cable box - I have to set video output to 1080i or 1080p. I cannot bypass the Anthem's video processor which the 3D upgrade tries to allow. Symptoms vary from no signal to picture with no audio.


PS - did you update the firmware and follow the steps to save/reset/load user settings?


----------



## slots1

Yes we did update the firmware but I do not know if my home theater guy did the save reset and load user settings.

should i go back and load default settings or is that going to screw everything up.

I did have at through then changed it to config 1.

Also, it was working with the media server then loosing connection and then finally now nothing except sound.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42780#post_24766654
> 
> 
> bob or whoever else
> 
> same problems as above.
> 
> put in the new 3d board...
> 
> nothing but problems...
> 
> apple tv working fine, uverse working fine..
> 
> my media server with all my movies at first was every couple seconds blacking out. Now it is completely out. Sounds is fine.
> 
> I have tried going from 12 bit to 8 bit. going from studio rgb to 4:4;4; and 4:2:2 nothing works... any suggestions. I have not reload factory defaults
> 
> My video output is the sony 600es 3d projector.
> 
> gerry



Just to state the obvious, the most likely explanation for your symptoms is that the HDMI output plug has come loose in the socket. Check both ends as it may be loose at the Display end.


Another simple mistake to make is that you've accidentally switched your Display to listen on a different (likely unconnected) HDMI input socket.


If that doesn't fix it, Save your settings and Reload Factory Defaults. Use the Front Panel display to navigate the Setup menu. The menu pictures in the manual can be helpful if you get lost.


Make sure you are using the Main HDMI Output socket -- that's the upper of the two sockets.


Now, with Defaults in place, see if you can get video output using the built in graphics of the Anthem. That would include the on-screen Volume, the Setup menu itself, and the Video Source Adjust menu. These are independent of any Sources or Source Setup settings. Don't futz with trying to get any input devices to work until you find you can get good video output from the built-in graphics.


If you don't get output from the built-in graphics with the default settings, you can try adjusting the Video Output Configuration settings in Setup, but really the Defaults *SHOULD* get you video.


If not, then your Anthem likely needs service. It could be as simple as that the new video hardware (the daughter boards for the 3D in and out that plug into the main video board), simply aren't seated correctly and have wiggle loose in their sockets.


Once you get the built in graphics to display, then go back and setup one input Source device at a time. Again, make sure the HDMI plugs are fully inserted straight into the sockets with nothing tugging on them in any direction (such as cable weight).

--Bob


----------



## thestewman

tem


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42780#post_24766654
> 
> 
> bob or whoever else
> 
> same problems as above.
> 
> put in the new 3d board...
> 
> nothing but problems...
> 
> apple tv working fine, uverse working fine..
> 
> my media server with all my movies at first was every couple seconds blacking out. Now it is completely out. Sounds is fine.
> 
> I have tried going from 12 bit to 8 bit. going from studio rgb to 4:4;4; and 4:2:2 nothing works... any suggestions. I have not reload factory defaults
> 
> My video output is the sony 600es 3d projector.
> 
> gerry



There are two very important items to check after trying Bob's suggestions.


1.

The display should say Statement D2v 3D at startup and the first display after pressing status should be D2v 3D then v3.09 0r 3.10. The 3D is the important part.

If it does not display 3D the install is incorrect.



2.

The installation of the new boards and the process of tightening the mounting screws is easily done incorrectly and will cause display problems.

You will have to disassemble the prior physical install of the circuit boards and then redo the installation to check and correct it. Physically looking at the circuit boards will not reveal the incorrect installation.

YOU MUST FOLLOW the board install instructions and procedure exactly step by step. Most important is how you tighten the mounting screws on the rear panel. Sounds stupid but following the installation instructions step by step is very important in having the circuit boards seated and making proper contact.


----------



## slots1

As far as I know installed correctly.

And yes the display says 3d


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42780#post_24768677
> 
> 
> tem
> 
> There are two very important items to check after trying Bob's suggestions.
> 
> 
> 1.
> 
> The display should say Statement D2v 3D at startup and the first display after pressing status should be D2v 3D then v3.09 0r 3.10. The 3D is the important part.
> 
> If it does not display 3D the install is incorrect.
> 
> 
> 
> 2.
> 
> The installation of the new boards and the process of tightening the mounting screws is easily done incorrectly and will cause display problems.
> 
> You will have to disassemble the prior physical install of the circuit boards and then redo the installation to check and correct it. Physically looking at the circuit boards will not reveal the incorrect installation.
> 
> YOU MUST FOLLOW the board install instructions and procedure exactly step by step. Most important is how you tighten the mounting screws on the rear panel. Sounds stupid but following the installation instructions step by step is very important in having the circuit boards seated and making proper contact.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42780#post_24770002
> 
> 
> As far as I know installed correctly.
> 
> And yes the display says 3d



If Bob's suggestions did not correct the problem. And you say the install was done correctly maybe the problem is with the media server since other sources work properly.

Describe the media server. Describe the connections from the media server and how you play the media from the server. And if there is a player how the player is connected to the Anthem.

Ethernet, USB etc

Do you have the Anthem's OSD appearing on your projector ?

Have you tried switching a working HDMI input to the Anthem either from the Apple TV or the cable box with the media server ?


----------



## slots1

Yes 3.10 version

And the OSd is working

Home theater guy coming today


Stew man where do you live in Chicago, I am now downtown


----------



## slots1

Bob

Thanks as usual. The on screen display is working. See volume etc. sound working

Will check hdmi later today.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42780#post_24770625
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> Thanks as usual. The on screen display is working. See volume etc. sound working
> 
> Will check hdmi later today.



If after you check the HDMI by switching the sources and if you do not find any solution.

Please share with us what kind of media NAS or player and how it is connected

Also what you use for the video playback if it is not a XMBC computer


----------



## dmusoke


What xover setting should use in my Oppo BDP-105 since my mains are crossed at 60Hz and my sub at 120Hz? 60Hz, 120Hz or 80Hz as a compromise between the two?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24775856
> 
> 
> What xover setting should use in my Oppo BDP-105 since my mains are crossed at 60Hz and my sub at 120Hz? 60Hz, 120Hz or 80Hz as a compromise between the two?



So we have a clear understanding please make note of these OPPO BDP 105 instructions

*NOTE

Speaker Configuration applies to the multi-channel analog audio outputs only. All digital

(bitstream and LPCM) outputs are unaffected by these settings.*


In other words you do not use the speaker config set up in the OPPO if you are using HDMI or other digiatal output from the OPPO.

Now if you are talking about 6 separate analog outputs into the Anthem and using theAnthem 6 channel analog inputs then you need to set up the OPPO.


Hope this indirectly clarifies your question


----------



## dmusoke


Yes...I was referring to the analog outputs of the Oppo into the D2v.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24776269
> 
> 
> Yes...I was referring to the analog outputs of the Oppo into the D2v.



Set all the OPPO speaker config to Large nas everything will be set up by the Anthem.


Remember if you are using the OPPO 6 channel analog output into the Anthem 6 channel analog input


And using ANALOG DIRECT.

ARC is NOT Available and BASS Management is turned off.

But apparently the crossovers set in the Anthem still are working.


If you use Ananlog Dig all digotal options including the Sub are enabled.


According to the Anthem manual 60hz is too low for the crossover it should be no lower than 80hz and somewhere around 120 hz is most desireable


----------



## dmusoke


Stew:

 

I want to use the Oppo for bass management functions(for analog signals) while passing the resultant signal straight to my amps with as little molestation as possiblee thru the Anthem, hence the need to use Analog-Direct in the Anthem and "Small" speaker setting in the Oppo.

 

I want to use both the HDMI and MCH outputs of the Oppo with the HDMI undergoing BM in the Anthem and the MCH of the Oppo straight to the amps using AnaDir of the D2v.

 

Hence the request for best/optimum xover frequency in the Oppo for those times when i want to listen to its analog outputs(both stereo and MCH).

 

Thanks,

David


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24776663
> 
> 
> Stew:
> 
> 
> I want to use the Oppo for bass management functions(for analog signals) while passing the resultant signal straight to my amps with as little molestation as possiblee thru the Anthem, hence the need to use Analog-Direct in the Anthem and "Small" speaker setting in the Oppo.
> 
> 
> I want to use both the HDMI and MCH outputs of the Oppo with the HDMI undergoing BM in the Anthem and the MCH of the Oppo straight to the amps using AnaDir of the D2v.
> 
> 
> Hence the request for best/optimum xover frequency in the Oppo for those times when i want to listen to its analog outputs(both stereo and MCH).
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



I clearly understand and and it is exactly what I am currently doing..You should set the OPPO config for your speakers to large..


Remember the following facts and note from OPPO and maybe it will make it clearer


NOTE

Speaker Configuration applies to the multi-channel analog audio outputs only. All digital

(bitstream and LPCM) outputs are unaffected by these settings.



There is no Bass management in the Anthem when set to Analog Direct

There is no LFE on vinlyl records, CDs or other analog music including HiRez downloads

You should set the Right and Left Front speakers to Large in the OPPO. The center and surrounds get set to small.

The D2v an be set one of two ways with the Advanced setting in speaker config. Set to OFF ( default ) or Advanced ON

Withe Advanced on you can manually set the crossovers under speaker config. Use something like REW a Windows program and a calibrated mike or use the speaker manufacturer suggested settings.

Or with Advanced OFF you set the speaakers to Large or Small in the Anthem speaker config and use the speakers manual controls if there are any

You want the OPPO to feed the Anthem the entire freq range of each channel (lso the large speaker setting ).

crossovers that you can see in the Anthem Speaker Config will take care of the speaker settings then.

In my own setup the OPPO is set as above. Right and Left Front to large the surrounds and center to smallI, I have Advanced ON and used REW to set the Anthem crossovers

Using Analog Direct and not having ARC is definitely more work. But worth it.

In your case sending analog audio from the OPPO either HiREZ or DSD will be unbelievably good


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24776663
> 
> 
> Stew:
> 
> 
> I want to use the Oppo for bass management functions(for analog signals) while passing the resultant signal straight to my amps with as little molestation as possiblee thru the Anthem, hence the need to use Analog-Direct in the Anthem and "Small" speaker setting in the Oppo.
> 
> 
> I want to use both the HDMI and MCH outputs of the Oppo with the HDMI undergoing BM in the Anthem and the MCH of the Oppo straight to the amps using AnaDir of the D2v.
> 
> 
> Hence the request for best/optimum xover frequency in the Oppo for those times when i want to listen to its analog outputs(both stereo and MCH).
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David



David,

I recommend you continue to use ARC in the D2v even when using the multi-channel Analog inputs, in which case the configuration as posted above is what you want. What you will GAIN from ARC exceeds what you will LOSE by not maintaining a pure, Analog path from the OPPO to the amps.


HOWEVER, if you prefer not to use ARC in the D2v for multi-channel Analog out from the OPPO then your choice of Crossover setting in the OPPO will be a matter of experimentation -- perhaps with the aid of some non-ARC measuring tool such as REW. The OPPO lets you set a Crossover frequency, but only one -- it applies to all speakers you set to Small.

*I recommend you limit your choice of Crossover in the OPPO to the range between 60 and 100Hz.*


You'll also need to deal with Sub boost. With any speakers set Small in the OPPO, the Sub RCA jack will need +15dB boost, preferably external to the player, to match the level of the other RCA outputs. +10dB of that is the standard boost for LFE, and the remaining +5dB is due to "down mix attenuation" needed to insure headroom given that you are adding in steered bass to that Sub output -- i.e., to keep from clipping the inputs of the preamp you connect it through on the way to the Sub. The D2v provides +10dB boost as a standard part of passing the Sub/LFE Analog signal through to the amp outputs. So you need to add the remaining +5dB. To keep it simple you could set the Sub volume trim in the OPPO to +5dB higher than would be needed if all speakers were set LARGE in the OPPO. Keep in mind that with positive volume trims in the OPPO there is a potential for clipping the inputs of the D2v. You can use the Input level bar chart in setup in the D2v to check that. If you spot clipping you can lower all the speaker volume trims in the OPPO the same amount until that goes away. Alternatively, lower main Volume in the OPPO.


Also keep in mind that if you select SACD Output DSD in the OPPO (i.e., DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion) then there is no audio processing in the OPPO. That means you loose the ability to down-mix on those analog outputs, or do Crossover processing, or speaker distance compensation. Since no Crossover processing is happening, the needed Sub boost now becomes only +10dB. So switching between DSD to the DACs and LPCM to the DACs (as with other content) would require you to remember to change the Sub boost as well, and forego Crossover processing and speakers distance compensation for the DSD content. To avoid these complexities, set SACD Output PCM in the OPPO.


One you've established the proper Sub boost, and verified all your speaker trims using a calibration disc -- e.g., the LPCM test tracks from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray -- you can start to figure out your choice of Crossover in the OPPO. (You will also need to set speaker distances in the OPPO, since you lose that compensation in the D2v as well when you set ANALOG DIRECT. And of course you should set the Speaker Configuration > Down-mix in the OPPO to 5.1, since the D2v does not have 7.1 Analog inputs.)


Since you'll have an ARC solution (for your HDMI audio) you could use the Crossover picked by ARC as guidance, but it is only guidance. ARC's bass solution is a combination of the settings it applies to the Crossover filters in the D2v hardware *AND* the Room Correction parameters. Since you will have ANALOG DIRECT set for your multi-channel Analog input from the OPPO you won't get ARC processing, and JUST using ARCs choice of Crossover frequencies may not be the best choice without the Room Correction processing also in the path. Then there's the problem that ARC can assign different Crossover values to different speaker pairs and the OPPO limits you to one.


So you can use the ARC choice as guidance, but you still need to check. One way to check is to use the Crossover test also found on AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray. It sends a bass tone sweeping up and down in frequency to just your front speakers. The high frequency end of that will come out exclusively in your fronts. The low frequency end will come out exclusively in the Sub due to the action of the Crossover in the OPPO. In between you get a mix as the Crossover engages over a span of about an octave of frequencies.


IF EVERYTHING IS SET RIGHT then that bass sweep tone will have constant volume from end to end (except of the very lowest bass which is more felt than heard). Adjust the OPPO Crossover to best achieve that.


I recommend you set up your ARC solution (for HDMI) before this, as that will help you discover and fix issues like poor physical location for the Subwoofer. The speaker configuration settings in the OPPO (including volume trims, crossover, down-mix, and speaker distance adjustment) have no effect on its HDMI output.

*Until you have a chance to do all this, the best "one size fits all" choice of Crossover in the OPPO is 80Hz.*

--Bob


----------



## nucky

Can someone tell me if the Anthem MRX 510 sounds the same for home cinema, as the Anthem D2v. Using it as a preamp.

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ No, the D2v sounds better. This is not surprising. The D2v is a different class of product. To take best advantage of the D2v, you do need to pair it with similar quality amps and speakers, and play better quality content (including your choice of movies).

--Bob


----------



## dmusoke


Bob & Stew ...thank you so much for the detailed responses to my dilemma. Obviously, i have a lot of work to do for now to reach my goals.

 

I think i will limit my analog MCH listening to stereo sources for now so that i may have a 2.1 output configuration. I have boosted the sub trim by +5dB in the Oppo and have level matched all output channels with help from my RS meter.

 

I understand there's no BM with DSD/SACD sources so i'll use HDMI output for those sources.

 

 

So, i have two options so far for 2.1 analog listening:

 

1. Set L/R speaker settings to large as Stew suggests(with Downmix set to stereo) and sue the sub output as well, having boosted its trim by +5dB and assuming i'm not overload the D2v with this trim level. Will this produce too much bass and if so, how do i solve this problem?

 

2. Same as option #1 but with speaker setting set to small with Downmix set to L/R with their distance settings engaged?

 

Thanks again for your helpful posts...

 

 

David


----------



## nucky




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24779014
> 
> 
> ^ No, the D2v sounds better. This is not surprising. The D2v is a different class of product. To take best advantage of the D2v, you do need to pair it with similar quality amps and speakers, and play better quality content (including your choice of movies).
> 
> --Bob


Ok its just that I have heard some people saying that they sound the same, have you heard both side by side, and if so can you describe the difference.

Thanks. I've got the D2v on demo and for films it is brilliant, but for music it is not that good.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nucky*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24779483
> 
> 
> Ok its just that I have heard some people saying that they sound the same, have you heard both side by side, and if so can you describe the difference.
> 
> Thanks. I've got the D2v on demo and for films it is brilliant, but for music it is not that good.



The D2v really shines with music if you if you set it up for 2 channel or 6 channel. Use an analog source and set it to Analog Direct. Not HDMI as HDMI is jitter prone


I know I probably will get flamed by all the ARC supporters but we are talking about music not 5.1 or 7.1 video surround


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24779113
> 
> 
> Bob & Stew ...thank you so much for the detailed responses to my dilemma. Obviously, i have a lot of work to do for now to reach my goals.
> 
> 
> I think i will limit my analog MCH listening to stereo sources for now so that i may have a 2.1 output configuration. I have boosted the sub trim by +5dB in the Oppo and have level matched all output channels with help from my RS meter.
> 
> 
> I understand there's no BM with DSD/SACD sources so i'll use HDMI output for those sources.
> 
> 
> 
> So, i have two options so far for 2.1 analog listening:
> 
> 
> 1. Set L/R speaker settings to large as Stew suggests(with Downmix set to stereo) and sue the sub output as well, having boosted its trim by +5dB and assuming i'm not overload the D2v with this trim level. Will this produce too much bass and if so, how do i solve this problem?
> 
> 
> 2. Same as option #1 but with speaker setting set to small with Downmix set to L/R with their distance settings engaged?
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your helpful posts...
> 
> 
> 
> David



David you have saved me allot of trouble by asking about analog settings as I have just my Oppo 95 modded by JLTI Level 3 seen here:

http://customanalogue.com/ 


I've never gone into the analog world but I want to listen to music both stereo and multi-channel to really benefit from the new mod so thanks to Bob and others for answering Davids questions which would have been mine. Helps allot.


----------



## dmusoke


I helped and saved you some trouble??? ... then show me the money







. Seriously, you're welcome!


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmusoke*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24779700
> 
> 
> I helped and saved you some trouble??? ... then show me the money . Seriously, you're welcome!



Hehe. You've helped me allot on this forum with bass configs and setup and now analog. A true gentleman in every sense of the word and you didn't even know it







.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nucky*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24779483
> 
> 
> Ok its just that I have heard some people saying that they sound the same, have you heard both side by side, and if so can you describe the difference.
> 
> Thanks. I've got the D2v on demo and for films it is brilliant, but for music it is not that good.



I was a Beta Tester for the 710, and still have it.


If you are having issues with the D2v for Music, then the odds are there is an error in your setup. Since I don't know your configuration for playing music, I couldn't guess what the problem might be, but seriously, there are tons of people here using these Anthem pre-pros for Music and complaints are few and far between.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24779610
> 
> 
> David you have saved me allot of trouble by asking about analog settings as I have just my Oppo 95 modded by JLTI Level 3 seen here:
> 
> http://customanalogue.com/
> 
> 
> I've never gone into the analog world but I want to listen to music both stereo and multi-channel to really benefit from the new mod so thanks to Bob and others for answering Davids questions which would have been mine. Helps allot.



Uh, just so you are aware, the 9x OPPO players are not identical to the 10x OPPO players. Sub boost comes to mind, and the way that Secondary Audio is handled. These are things best taken to the appropriate OPPO thread(s) for specific questions and answers.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

thestweman,

Preference for ARC aside, the jitter reduction is excellent on the HDMI Inputs of the D2v. It's really not an issue.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24780228
> 
> 
> Uh, just so you are aware, the 9x OPPO players are not identical to the 10x OPPO players. Sub boost comes to mind, and the way that Secondary Audio is handled. These are things best taken to the appropriate OPPO thread(s) for specific questions and answers.
> 
> --Bob



Sure Bob no problem.


----------



## SimonNo10

Ok I have a unique problem which I've tried to solve and have done the process of elimination and worked out what is causing it. In short I've been getting slight interference coming through my front left, centre and rear left speakers like passing magnet too close to something and getting a buzzing sound. Now it's not loud and I can't hear it from 2m away but I I know it's there. At first I thought it was a bad XLR cable from one of my seaton Submersives using a 10m cable as the buzz goes away if I take out the XLR from the sub even though it's turned off but my D2v is on as is my Krell amp. So I purchased a new better quality XLR but the problem still exists. I decided to pull out the RCA that's connected to the Sub 1 of the d2v that's connected to the SVS ASEQ SubA input and the interference goes away. Put it back in and it comes back so it's that input in the D2v that's causing the problem. Now it doesn't affect sound quality it's just something I want gone and I recently got my HT put on its own circuit thinking it was something in my house that was causing it but it's not. I also got this kind of problem when I was doing the calibration of the Aseq and using the RCA for the front left channel to balance the subs before running the calibration.


Does this indicate a faulty input on the D2v or is it just the way it's designed? It's been driving me crazy for months and I've learned to live with it and spend a bit of money eliminating possible causes but it's come down to one input and one RCA cable which I've tried 3 different cables all producing the same problem. Has anyone else encountered this problem using an Aseq with a D2v?


----------



## slots1

Ok I do have a picture from the movie server now but they had to reduce the anthem to 720p.

Even though they said the server is putting out 1080p

At least I have video


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24784422
> 
> 
> Ok I do have a picture from the movie server now but they had to reduce the anthem to 720p.
> 
> Even though they said the server is putting out 1080p
> 
> At least I have video



Try 1080i out of the Anthem. 1080i and 720p are the same bandwidth on the cable. If 1080i and 720p work but 1080p does not -- and yet 1080p output from the Anthem works when using OTHER sources -- then that suggests a marginal HDMI connection.


Diagnose this while leaving the Anthem set to 8-bit output so that Deep Color is not complicating things.


Now, what's likely going on here is a combination of factors: Some portion of your HDMI cable is not handling 1080p cleanly, and your media server is not dealing with that gracefully.


The problem could be in the HDMI cable from the server to the Anthem, or from the Anthem to your display, or both. So the first thing to do is to try to improve your cabling so that the media server doesn't HAVE TO deal with issues.


Use a single run of cable in each case with nothing else in the signal path. If possible, use a 6 foot cable (not shorter or longer) between the media server and the Anthem. When buying cables, be sure you get a cable marked as "For 1080p", or "High Speed", or "Category 2", all of which mean the same thing. Be sure each plug is fully inserted STRAIGHT into its socket, with nothing (e.g., cable weight or cable kinks) tugging on it in any direction. Again, the idea here is to increase your odds that the media server won't HAVE TO do error recovery.


Now, if you still have problems, the next step is to try to simplify what the media server is doing for the handshake. As always with HDMI, the source device (the media server in this case) controls the entire handshake process from end to end. That is, it talks to the Anthem, and then it talks THROUGH the Anthem to the Display.


So in the Anthem, set the output format to an explicit choice (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of AUTO. If you are ALSO using the 2nd HDMI output of the Anthem, try disconnecting that to see if that makes life easier for the media server.


Look for similar settings in the media server: I.e., explicit choices regarding output audio/video format instead of AUTO.


If still no joy, see if you can get a firmware update for your media server. Also check for owner threads on it to see if others have found ways to improve its HDMI handling.


If STILL no joy, there's another thing you can try, which is to put an HDMI buffering device (e.g., Gefen's HDMI Detective) in the path between the media server and the OPPO. The idea is to shield the media server from some of the HDMI handshake tasks.


By the way, if the root cause of the problem here is a faulty implementation of HDMI in the media server (perhaps exacerbated by less than perfect HDMI cabling) what you are experiencing since the update would be NORMAL, as the new HDMI hardware in the Anthem has new (i.e., different) handshake timing from what has worked in the past with the media server.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slots1*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24784422
> 
> 
> Ok I do have a picture from the movie server now but they had to reduce the anthem to 720p.
> 
> Even though they said the server is putting out 1080p
> 
> At least I have video



Slots1

As requested previously maybe before you try all of Bob's recommendations please supply the forum with more information on your setup. It is conceivable another forum member is using the same media server setup and can supply useful information.

We need the media server make and model, How you getting the media server output to the Anthem. Probably not HDMI as most media servers do not process the video.

What you are using to process the video from the medai server. What video format are you using and how you obtained the video files you are using.

The forum is your number one source of relevent information. Many forum users such as myself and others are doing the same thing you are attempting and may have the same equipment. .


My setup has 2 Windows Home Servers and an Unraid meda Server witth currently approximately 100tb of music and video storage. The videos are played with either a Popcorn Hour C200 or C300

and never at less than 1080P in either MKV.M2TS or full menu Blu Ray format with DTS-HD Master Audio or Dolby TrueHD sound

I rip all my own videos as downloading gets poor quality and possibly dangerous virus or malware.

Everything I have passes thru the D2v flawlessly. Except for my 4K stuff. That has to bypass the Anthem


----------



## leeshanok




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24779557
> 
> 
> The D2v really shines with music if you if you set it up for 2 channel or 6 channel. Use an analog source and set it to Analog Direct. Not HDMI as HDMI is jitter prone
> 
> 
> I know I probably will get flamed by all the ARC supporters but we are talking about music not 5.1 or 7.1 video surround



I actually agree with you. I have the D2 with Paradigm S8s and sub25. I prefer 2 ch analog direct (no sub) compared with using ARC in analog DSP with sub. I know supposedly with ARC, the sound is calibrated properly to your room, but with ARC on, the soundstage is a bit more recessed and just doesn't give the S8s the respect they deserve. For many years, I had used ARC with my Studios 100s and they sound good, but with the S8s, you just have to set them free and let the speakers speak for themselves. I'm very happy with them. No need to upgrade. Next project is for my bedroom, would like to try something different, maybe a set of the Focal Electra Be speakers. Have had mostly Paradigm speakers since 1998. So, its time to try something else.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leeshanok*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24786839
> 
> 
> I actually agree with you. I have the D2 with Paradigm S8s and sub25. I prefer 2 ch analog direct (no sub) compared with using ARC in analog DSP with sub. I know supposedly with ARC, the sound is calibrated properly to your room, but with ARC on, the soundstage is a bit more recessed and just doesn't give the S8s the respect they deserve. For many years, I had used ARC with my Studios 100s and they sound good, but with the S8s, you just have to set them free and let the speakers speak for themselves. I'm very happy with them. No need to upgrade. Next project is for my bedroom, would like to try something different, maybe a set of the Focal Electra Be speakers. Have had mostly Paradigm speakers since 1998. So, its time to try something else.



I also like the Focals. Currently the top three manufacturers on my list are Genesis. I have the Genesis 5.3s. The Sony SS AR 1 or SS AR 2. and the Evolution Acoustics

Regarding your statement above. Part of the problem is the Sub. It is tricky to get it to blend in properly. And I have not found a sub that is musical. Maybe it will have great low frequency response etc

For music a sub is not necesssary unless you have severely limited response in your stereo speakers like bookshelf speakers.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24783959
> 
> 
> Ok I have a unique problem which I've tried to solve and have done the process of elimination and worked out what is causing it. In short I've been getting slight interference coming through my front left, centre and rear left speakers like passing magnet too close to something and getting a buzzing sound. Now it's not loud and I can't hear it from 2m away but I I know it's there. At first I thought it was a bad XLR cable from one of my seaton Submersives using a 10m cable as the buzz goes away if I take out the XLR from the sub even though it's turned off but my D2v is on as is my Krell amp. So I purchased a new better quality XLR but the problem still exists. I decided to pull out the RCA that's connected to the Sub 1 of the d2v that's connected to the SVS ASEQ SubA input and the interference goes away. Put it back in and it comes back so it's that input in the D2v that's causing the problem. Now it doesn't affect sound quality it's just something I want gone and I recently got my HT put on its own circuit thinking it was something in my house that was causing it but it's not. I also got this kind of problem when I was doing the calibration of the Aseq and using the RCA for the front left channel to balance the subs before running the calibration.
> 
> 
> Does this indicate a faulty input on the D2v or is it just the way it's designed? It's been driving me crazy for months and I've learned to live with it and spend a bit of money eliminating possible causes but it's come down to one input and one RCA cable which I've tried 3 different cables all producing the same problem. Has anyone else encountered this problem using an Aseq with a D2v?



For more information I'm using an RCA from the Main Audio Out on the D2v into the Sub 1 Input on the SVS ASEQ. Currently I'm using XLR connections from my 5 channel amp to the D2v and I just thought if I purchase an XLR-RCA adapter and use the Main Audio Out Sub 1 on the D2v (XLR) and connect the RCA end to the ASEQ, I'm wondering if that would eliminate the noise?


----------



## tngiloy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24787283
> 
> 
> For more information I'm using an RCA from the Main Audio Out on the D2v into the Sub 1 Input on the SVS ASEQ. Currently I'm using XLR connections from my 5 channel amp to the D2v and I just thought if I purchase an XLR-RCA adapter and use the Main Audio Out Sub 1 on the D2v (XLR) and connect the RCA end to the ASEQ, I'm wondering if that would eliminate the noise?



SimonNo10,

Have you tried connecting the ASEQ1 to the SUB2 RCA out from the D2v ?? Since all of the SUB outs from the D2v send the same information it should not matter which one you connect to the ASEQ1, RCA 1 or 2 or XLR 1 or 2.

Just a thought before you buy a new cable.

Tom


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24787283
> 
> 
> For more information I'm using an RCA from the Main Audio Out on the D2v into the Sub 1 Input on the SVS ASEQ. Currently I'm using XLR connections from my 5 channel amp to the D2v and I just thought if I purchase an XLR-RCA adapter and use the Main Audio Out Sub 1 on the D2v (XLR) and connect the RCA end to the ASEQ, I'm wondering if that would eliminate the noise?



Try this before you go any further. Run a plain length of 18 or 16 gauge wire from a bare metal spot on the D2v to a bare metal spot on the ASEQ.

You might eliminate the hum by grounding both units together.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tngiloy*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24787553
> 
> 
> SimonNo10,
> 
> Have you tried connecting the ASEQ1 to the SUB2 RCA out from the D2v ?? Since all of the SUB outs from the D2v send the same information it should not matter which one you connect to the ASEQ1, RCA 1 or 2 or XLR 1 or 2.
> 
> Just a thought before you buy a new cable.
> 
> Tom



Yes tried that same thing unfortunately. This is the adapter I will get to see if it will eliminate the issue:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PA3802 


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24788212
> 
> 
> Try this before you go any further. Run a plain length of 18 or 16 gauge wire from a bare metal spot on the D2v to a bare metal spot on the ASEQ.
> 
> You might eliminate the hum by grounding both units together.



No worries I will try this after I finish work today and report back. I will connect the wire to the grounding screw on the back of the D2v then to a bare spot on the ASEQ. Thanks guys for the suggestions.


----------



## nucky

Can someone recommend a usb to RS232 adaptor for the D2v.

Thanks


----------



## Shrike645




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nucky*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42840#post_24789521
> 
> 
> Can someone recommend a usb to RS232 adaptor for the D2v.
> 
> Thanks



The Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter is the one that is now included with the D2v.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

SimonNo10,

Sounds like you have a Ground Loop. Just in case you've not tried this yet:


1) The single most common source of Ground Loop garbage these days is stuff coming into your house on the shield of the Cable or Satellite TV feed. It is easy to test if THIS is the cause. Simply disconnect that feed wire where it comes out of your wall. If that cures it, then there are things you can do to "fix" this. Note that you don't even have to be listening to that TV feed for this to be a problem. All that matters is that there are cables running from that TV feed to the rest of your gear.


2) If you have more than one wall power circuit feeding the combination of equipment in your theater, then it is possible that they are not all at the same ground potential. Note that devices plugged into the "other" wall circuit don't even need to be turned on for this to be an issue. All that's needed is that there are cables running between them and the rest of your gear. To test this, temporarily plug EVERYTHING into the same wall jack. You may need to be careful about the order you turn things on to keep from popping the circuit breaker. If THIS cures the problem there are also things you can do to "fix" this.


(It's helpful when doing this if you can figure out the minimum number of things that need to be plugged in to exhibit the noise problem.)


3) Sometimes, minor levels of power line interference can occur simply because of how you have your cables arranged, particularly if not all the cables are designed with good cable shields. To test THIS, lift and rearrange the cables -- particularly the audio/video interconnect cables with respect to where power cords happen to be. Do this while listening for the noise. If lifting/shifting the cables changes the amount of noise (either decreasing or increasing it) then you need to improve your cables (better shielding) and take better care in how you have things arranged to keep power cords away from signal cables. Note that you leave the cables CONNECTED during this test -- you are only shifting the wires around with respect to each other.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nucky*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42840#post_24789521
> 
> 
> Can someone recommend a usb to RS232 adaptor for the D2v.
> 
> Thanks


A Keyspan by Tripplite USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter should have come with your D2v (in the ARC kit box). If not, you can get them from Amazon, etc.


Go to the Tripplite web site and make sure you have the latest driver for your particular flavor of Windows.


You will also need a length of "straight through" serial cable (pins 1-9 connect directly to pins 1-9) to run from the adapter to the back of the D2v. The adapter itself plugs into the USB port on your Windows computer. Be careful not to get the identical looking cable which swaps two of the pins -- sometimes labeled as a "null modem" cable.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42810#post_24783959
> 
> 
> Ok I have a unique problem which I've tried to solve and have done the process of elimination and worked out what is causing it. In short I've been getting slight interference coming through my front left, centre and rear left speakers like passing magnet too close to something and getting a buzzing sound. Now it's not loud and I can't hear it from 2m away but I I know it's there. At first I thought it was a bad XLR cable from one of my seaton Submersives using a 10m cable as the buzz goes away if I take out the XLR from the sub even though it's turned off but my D2v is on as is my Krell amp. So I purchased a new better quality XLR but the problem still exists. I decided to pull out the RCA that's connected to the Sub 1 of the d2v that's connected to the SVS ASEQ SubA input and the interference goes away. Put it back in and it comes back so it's that input in the D2v that's causing the problem. Now it doesn't affect sound quality it's just something I want gone and I recently got my HT put on its own circuit thinking it was something in my house that was causing it but it's not. I also got this kind of problem when I was doing the calibration of the Aseq and using the RCA for the front left channel to balance the subs before running the calibration.
> 
> 
> Does this indicate a faulty input on the D2v or is it just the way it's designed? It's been driving me crazy for months and I've learned to live with it and spend a bit of money eliminating possible causes but it's come down to one input and one RCA cable which I've tried 3 different cables all producing the same problem. Has anyone else encountered this problem using an Aseq with a D2v?



Simon


Little confused with your description as I was trying to assess the problem..

You say " so it's that input in the D2v that's causing the problem" , The SVS ASEQ is supposed to be connected to the Anthem sub output not input or am I confused ?

Have you removed the cable from the SVS ASEQ connected to the rear SAT connection ? Thats only there for the setup not during listening

If the hum is corrected by removing the sub input to the SVS ASEQ which is a single ended RCA cable

where are you planning on using using the balanced connector convertor ?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42840#post_24790743
> 
> 
> Simon
> 
> 
> Little confused with your description as I was trying to assess the problem..
> 
> You say " so it's that input in the D2v that's causing the problem" , The SVS ASEQ is supposed to be connected to the Anthem sub output not input or am I confused ?
> 
> Have you removed the cable from the SVS ASEQ connected to the rear SAT connection ? Thats only there for the setup not during listening
> 
> If the hum is corrected by removing the sub input to the SVS ASEQ which is a single ended RCA cable
> 
> where are you planning on using using the balanced connector convertor ?



Hi. Yes I'm using the Output on the D2v and yes I removed the rca from the Sat connection after the calibration sorry if I confused you. Also regarding the adapter, I will be using the same Input on the ASEQ but a differerent Output on the D2v being the XLR and I know the adapter changes it to unbalanced but want to eliminate a faulty Output (RCA) on the D2v. I went to Jaycar after work and they didn't have the adapter in stock so i can't test it out. Will order one online. Otherwise the only thing I can try is the bare wire from D2v (Ground Screw) and have it connected to a bare metal part on the ASEQ to see if that solves the problem.


Thanks Bob for you reply as well. My D2v, Oppo, one Seaton Submersive and ASEQ are plugged into the latest Thor PS10 power center and then that is plugged into a filtered power point and my HT which is now on it's own circuit separate to the rest of the house which was just recently done. My projector and 2nd Submersive are connected to 2 separate power points but also on the same circuit as the rest of my gear. I went this route to eliminate any possible interference from any house appliance or lighting. I will try suggestion 3 as well.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Literally the same circuit? Exactly ONE circuit breaker controlling the ENTIRE set of equipment in the Home Theater? All it takes is one cable connecting in from something plugged into a different circuit, even if that something is not turned on.


If you have more than one circuit breaker protecting the power into your home theater, then there is a very common installation mistake that can cause the circuits to be at different ground potential.


The power coming into your breaker box is 3-phase power. Simply put, that means there are two different ways a circuit breaker can connect to that incoming power. It's not uncommon for those two rails to have different ground potential. In a normal breaker box, breakers that are directly above or below each other are attached to the opposite rails. The easy fix is to reposition the breakers in the box so that all the breakers feeding your home theater are on the same rail.


As you can imagine, if the electrician wasn't aware that common ground potential was important for your new circuits, it would be easy to do this wrong.


Also, do try the experiment of disconnecting any cable or satellite TV feed where it comes out from the wall.

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I should also mention -- since you said more than one, new wall outlet was in use -- another possible installation mistake is for hot and ground to be swapped when the wall outlet is installed. If this mistake was only done at one outlet, then you've got a ground fault compared to the other outlet.


Test this by disconnecting the things plugged into the 2nd outlet to see if the noise goes away. I.e., see if you can get the noise to happen when only ONE wall outlet has anything connected to it.

--Bob


----------



## nucky

That's me a proud owner of the Anthem D2v 3D, it's the best home theater that I've ever experienced. Thanks for your help.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42840#post_24791544
> 
> 
> ^
> 
> 
> The power coming into your breaker box is 3-phase power. Simply put, that means there are two different ways a circuit breaker can connect to that incoming power. It's not uncommon for those two rails to have different ground potential. In a normal breaker box, breakers that are directly above or below each other are attached to the opposite rails. The easy fix is to reposition the breakers in the box so that all the breakers feeding your home theater are on the same rail.
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob



A correction to the statement above.


Residential power is never 3 phase as stated above. Commercial power sometimes is but US power is single phase 3 wire 220v. You do have 2 hot wires and a ground.

The breakers on one side will all be tapping one leg of the 220v and the breakers on the opposite side the other not one breaker above the other.


In the case of Simon10 who resides in Australia he has Single Phase 50hz 240 v service.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Thanks for the correction!

--Bob


----------



## drlopezmdfacp


I have a D2 which I purchased thinking that it could be upgradeable as the years went by.  I now want to hook up a 3D bluray player to the device and when I contacted Anthem they say that they no longer do the trade-in or have any ability to alter my machine to allow it to pass through 3D.  My only option is another pre-amp?  Any advise is appreciated.


----------



## Tim Winders

I'm in the same situation. Love my D2, but for the price paid, I wish upgrading was an option. For now, I'm forced to live without any new features.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Sell the D2, e.g., on Audiogon, and buy a new D2v/3D.


The amount of hardware change-out involved in "upgrading" a D2 makes it not practical.

--Bob


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacp*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42840#post_24792741
> 
> 
> I have a D2 which I purchased thinking that it could be upgradeable as the years went by.  I now want to hook up a 3D bluray player to the device and when I contacted Anthem they say that they no longer do the trade-in or have any ability to alter my machine to allow it to pass through 3D.  My only option is another pre-amp?  Any advise is appreciated.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tim Winders*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42840#post_24792770
> 
> 
> I'm in the same situation. Love my D2, but for the price paid, I wish upgrading was an option. For now, I'm forced to live without any new features.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42840#post_24792850
> 
> 
> ^ Sell the D2, e.g., on Audiogon, and buy a new D2v/3D.
> 
> 
> The amount of hardware change-out involved in "upgrading" a D2 makes it not practical.
> 
> --Bob



Bypass the Anthem and connect the BluRay Player video directly to the display or projector.

You do not need or even want the Anthem to process the 3D video which the PassThrough they provide does anyway.


Most new 3D BluRay players have a second HDMI output for the audio which you can connect directly to the Anthem D2 for HiRez or Lossless audio.


----------



## Tim Winders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42840#post_24792906
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bypass the Anthem and connect the BluRay Player video directly to the display or projector.
> 
> You do not need or even want the Anthem to process the 3D video which the PassThrough they provide does anyway.
> 
> 
> Most new 3D BluRay players have a second HDMI output for the audio which you can connect directly to the Anthem D2 for HiRez or Lossless audio.



Well, yes. And as I move forward, I'll eventually bypass the D2 video section and use it for audio only... I'm not in a position to sell the D2 and buy a new D2v3D. I don't know if the D2 is "worth" anything anymore...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ There's more to the newer hardware than just video of course.


You can check on Audiogon for D2 sales history. Keep in mind that some people are selling WITHOUT ARC, or have units that are beat up in one way it another. So try to compare against units like yours.


Anthem never did an upgrade to the D2v. For a while they were doing a factory subsidized trade-in program. Even with that it wasn't cheap, and the 3D pass through addition makes it even more.

--Bob


----------



## drlopezmdfacp


Thank you both!  Was trying to minimize cables going to the projector.  I guess I will have two cables going to the projector (from the DVD player and the D2).  I guess the D2 v1.33 will accept the audio only signal from the Oppo Darbee BDP103 with no hiccup; is this an option in the Oppo Menu--to send audio only via a selected HDMI port?  Can someone explain how to set up input and output?  How does the projector know which video signal to project?  Is this an option, I guess?  Will use an Epson 6350.  Sorry for the ignorant questions.  Appreciate the help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drlopezmdfacp*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42840#post_24792997
> 
> 
> Thank you both!  Was trying to minimize cables going to the projector.  I guess I will have two cables going to the projector (from the DVD player and the D2).  I guess the D2 v1.33 will accept the audio only signal from the Oppo Darbee BDP103 with no hiccup; is this an option in the Oppo Menu--to send audio only via a selected HDMI port?  Can someone explain how to set up input and output?  How does the projector know which video signal to project?  Is this an option, I guess?  Will use an Epson 6350.  Sorry for the ignorant questions.  Appreciate the help.



Yes. Cable HDMI 1 from the OPPO to your Display for video. Cable HDMI 2 from the OPPO to the D2 for audio.


In the OPPO set Dual Display Mode = SPLIT A/V, set HDMI Audio = LPCM, set HDCD Decoding = ON, and set SACD Output = PCM. The OPPO will do the decoding and send LPCM (up to 5.1 channels) to the D2. If you play 7.1 content, that will be down-mixed to 5.1 in the OPPO. (You can use, e.g., PLIIx in the D2 to raise that to 7.1 speakers output.)


On the projector, you will need to manually select the source for your projector to display -- i.e., it's input from the OPPO or its input from the D2.


If running two long cables to the projector is a problem, you could also try a remote controllable HDMI switch to select whether the output of the OPPO or of the D2 goes to the single cable feeding the projector.

--Bob


----------



## cvinfig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42840#post_24793074
> 
> 
> Yes. Cable HDMI 1 from the OPPO to your Display for video. Cable HDMI 2 from the OPPO to the D2 for audio.
> 
> 
> In the OPPO set Dual Display Mode = SPLIT A/V, set HDMI Audio = LPCM, set HDCD Decoding = ON, and set SACD Output = PCM. The OPPO will do the decoding and send LPCM (up to 5.1 channels) to the D2. If you play 7.1 content, that will be down-mixed to 5.1 in the OPPO. (You can use, e.g., PLIIx in the D2 to raise that to 7.1 speakers output.)
> 
> 
> On the projector, you will need to manually select the source for your projector to display -- i.e., it's input from the OPPO or its input from the D2.
> 
> 
> If running two long cables to the projector is a problem, you could also try a remote controllable HDMI switch to select whether the output of the OPPO or of the D2 goes to the single cable feeding the projector.
> 
> --Bob



Since the OPPO supports HDMI inputs, couldn't it be used as the "remote controllable HDMI switch"? Setup audio from the OPPO to the D2 as described above, connect the projector HDMI to the OPPO HDMI 1 output instead of the D2, and connect an HDMI cable from the D2 output that was going to the projector to one of the OPPOs HDMI inputs. You'd still need to select the correct soure in the D2. In addition, you'd have to select the correct source (only two choices, the D2 or the OPPO) in the OPPO. A downside to this is that you'd always have to power on the OPPO.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ That's an HDMI loop: When you want to play some OTHER source on the D2, the HDMI signal is trying to get to the D2 from two different directions (that source, and the feed from the OPPO back into the D2). Typically HDMI copy protection will froth at the mouth and fall over backwards if you try that. It is possible it may work with some source devices since the D2 shuts down its non-selected HDMI inputs.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Hey Bob. If I wanted to do the above using 2 HDMI cables from the Oppo, I would connect the HDMI from my projector to HDMI 1 on the Oppo (95) and then connect the 2nd cable from HDMI 2 on the Oppo to one of the Audio "In's" on the D2v? If this is the case then nothing is being connected to the HDMI 1 Video on the D2v thus I wont be able to bring up the main menu on the Anthem. Is this correct?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Correct. You'd have to rely on the Front Panel display of the Anthem, or, as some people do, get a small, HDMI monitor that you can use just for viewing the video output of the Anthem. The smallest such monitors (under 12 inches) are typically sold as companion monitors to digital cameras or for use in cars.

--Bob


----------



## nucky

I've got version 3.09 what does v3.10 do.


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42840#post_24793436
> 
> 
> ^ Correct. You'd have to rely on the Front Panel display of the Anthem, or, as some people do, get a small, HDMI monitor that you can use just for viewing the video output of the Anthem. The smallest such monitors (under 12 inches) are typically sold as companion monitors to digital cameras or for use in cars.
> 
> --Bob



Thank you Bob.


----------



## Bob Pariseau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nucky*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42840#post_24793466
> 
> 
> I've got version 3.09 what does v3.10 do.



V3.10 should only be installed if you have a D2v/3D -- i.e., the Front Panel display shows the "3D" as part of the model info when the unit is powered up.


Here are the change notes for changes between V3.09 and V3.10


> Quote:
> v3.10 release candidate
> 
> 
> 1. Rotating knob very quickly caused front panel display to freeze - fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09l beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed issue where Dolby Pro Logic IIx Music was not available for 2-channel 24/192 input.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09j beta
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed serial control issue where Zone 2 had no audio if powering on to tuner.
> 
> 
> 2. Fixed AVM 50v issue where noise was present when playing 176.4 kHz source.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09h release candidate:
> 
> 
> 1. When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source was playing, a surround upmix mode couldn't be selected - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. False "No Input Signal" status info when receiving 2-channel input - fixed.
> 
> 
> 3. "Last Used" mode preset reverted to "None" under certain conditions - fixed.
> 
> 
> 4. Previous DTS changes now certified.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09f beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Output channel count was displayed incorrectly when 6-ch analog input was selected - fixed.
> 
> 
> 2. Further DTS-required changes.
> 
> 
> Known issue: When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source is selected, a surround upmix mode can't be selected.
> 
> 
> 
> v3.09c beta:
> 
> 
> 1. Fixed bug where AVM 50v sometimes powered on with low volume.
> 
> 
> 2. DTS-required changes for pending certification. Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements.



--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42840#post_24791564
> 
> 
> ^ I should also mention -- since you said more than one, new wall outlet was in use -- another possible installation mistake is for hot and ground to be swapped when the wall outlet is installed. If this mistake was only done at one outlet, then you've got a ground fault compared to the other outlet.
> 
> 
> Test this by disconnecting the things plugged into the 2nd outlet to see if the noise goes away. I.e., see if you can get the noise to happen when only ONE wall outlet has anything connected to it.
> 
> --Bob



The electrician I use has been in operation for over 30 years and his performed all my major upgrades including the full replacement of the power board outside (2 years ago) with new ground and power from the main street. He was made aware of the issue I was having and made sure all the points were done properly and the points I am using for the HT were placed separate to the rest of the house. The HT circuit also has 2 new model safety switches as well plus this which I already had on the board:

http://www.rkcable.com.au/Clipsal970MF20.htm 


The Krell amp I'm using is going through this:

http://www.rkcable.com.au/ThorTechCM90.htm 


I decided to rearrange cables and power cables behind my equipment rack and am now using the dual HDMI method on the Oppo. I swapped over my existing XLR cables running between the power amp and the D2v just to eliminate that as a possible cause. All the cables I have are of high quality and are shielded as well as power cords for the Krell, Oppo, projector and even the Thor Ps10 are all aftermarket cables and not cheap ones. I personally believe that it's the D2v that is the problem with it only having 2 prongs for power on the unit itself and when I use any RCA connection it creates noise. I've tried connecting a wire from the ground screw on the D2v to each piece of equipment (Oppo, ASEQ, Thor PS10) with no result.


One thing I did notice when turning on one unit at a time first the D2v then power amp and then ASEQ there was no noise, I turned on the Oppo and the noise starts, projector was not turned on. I believe the RCA that's connected to the D2v is somehow creating noise which is then passing it onto the or through the board thus sending it through the HDMI that's in Audio 1 on the Anthem. The only way I can test my theory is by getting an XLR-RCA adapter thus removing the RCA from the audio output and using the XLR audio output (the same ones I'm using between the power amp and D2v) even though I know the adapter will unbalance the signal being RCA on the other end. If this doesn't work then I'm at a loss as to what to try next. Further to your suggestion regarding satelite or TV being the problem, I've only got my JVC X-35 projector connected nothing else into the D2v. I have a TV in the study but as mentioned my HT is no longer on the main house circuit so it shouldn't be affecting the system.


----------



## thestewman

Simon

Two other atempts you can try. Both can or might fix the problem.. Try the ground wire from the Anthem ground screw to a building ground not a diferent device.

And you say you think the hum may be coming from the OPPO? Get a two pin cheater plug and eliminate the OPPO ground.

Another thought I just thought about.


The hum is on the left side only ? Maybe we can isolate it better.

Switch the amp outputs to the speakers. Left to Right

Switch the Anthem outputs to the amps, left to Right. Then surrounds Left to Right


What is disturbing is you say that the hum is from the Left front ,center, and left rear.

Unplugging the OPPO stops the hum ? Have you tried switching the OPPO outputs Left to Right ?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42840#post_24794435
> 
> 
> Simon
> 
> Two other atempts you can try. Both can or might fix the problem.. Try the ground wire from the Anthem ground screw to a building ground not a diferent device.
> 
> And you say you think the hum may be coming from the OPPO? Get a two pin cheater plug and eliminate the OPPO ground.



Hey. No I don't believe it's the Oppo but as it's the only thing that's connected to the D2v (Digital) I think it's the RCA that's in the Audio Output connecting to the ASEQ that is the culprit which is affecting (Creating noise) the HDMI to the Oppo. I have ordered an XLR-RCA Female adapter which will arrive tomorrow (express delivery) so I can rule out the RCA output all together and use the XLR Sub 1 Output instead. Can only try I suppose. The D2v is the only piece of equipment that has a 2 prong for it's power.


Not sure I understand where I can connect the other end of the ground wire to "Building Ground" What examples are there for Building ground?


> Quote:
> Unplugging the OPPO stops the hum ? Have you tried switching the OPPO outputs Left to Right ?



I have no connections other than the 2 HDMI cables in HDMI 1 & 2 on the Oppo nothing else using the dual method which I've only done today to see if it affected the noise which it hasn't.


----------



## thestewman

Simon


The ground wire would go to any object connected to ground in Australia they use a green or yellow wire for the ground.

Your wiring system is far different than in the US so I cannot tell you where. Maybe call the electrician and ask him where a good convenient point to grround the Anthem chassis might be.


When Anthem shipped the D2 did they supply an Australian design 2 prong power cord ?

I am beginning to wonder how Anthem designed the voltage conversion inside the D2. Maybe they used a transformer and that is where the hum is coming from.?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42840#post_24794543
> 
> 
> Simon
> 
> 
> The ground wire would go to any object connected to ground in Australia they use a green or yellow wire for the ground.
> 
> Your wiring system is far different than in the US so I cannot tell you where. Maybe call the electrician and ask him where a good convenient point to grround the Anthem chassis might be.
> 
> *When Anthem shipped the D2 did they supply an Australian design 2 prong power cord ?*
> 
> I am beginning to wonder how Anthem designed the voltage conversion inside the D2. Maybe they used a transformer and that is where the hum is coming from.?



Yes they did but I've since replaced it with one of these:

http://www.synergyaudio.com/Chord/Mains-Leads/Power-Chord-mains-cable/873/productview.aspx 


Purchased from a fellow HT member on another forum here in Australia (bought 2 from him one for the D2v the other for the Oppo) and they were purchased new locally with an Australian plug and these have 3 prongs not 2 so the 3rd wouldn't be getting used as the D2v only has 2 for it's power.


----------



## thestewman

Still have the Anthem power cord ? At this point anything is worth a try


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24794627
> 
> 
> Still have the Anthem power cord ? At this point anything is worth a try



You read my mind as I was just about to locate the box and see if I put it back in there. Will try anything atm.


----------



## thestewman

If you lived closer you could bring the Anthem and try it in my system.

Is there a dealer or another HT enthusist you could try it at ?


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24794687
> 
> 
> If you lived closer you could bring the Anthem and try it in my system.
> 
> Is there a dealer or another HT enthusist you could try it at ?



Yeah that would be nice. No I don't have anyone that I know that lives close but I can't be the only person here that runs an ASEQ with an Anthem processor? The connections would be the same unless other users are using the RCA Outputs on the processor rather than the XLR's between their power amps/receivers. We all have to use RCA into the ASEQ as there's no XLR inputs. I guess the one thing that could be a factor also is I'm running 2 Seaton Submersive subs that are connected to the ASEQ with XLR-RCA adapters for each and the adapters came with the subs for those that require RCA connections to their equipment.


I tried the original power cord that came with the D2v (2 prong) and the problem is still there. I've sent an e-mail to my dealer that sold me the D2v (who has been amazing for service) and hope he can assist me with the issue.


Here is a pic of my main power board outside for those interested:

PowerBoard.JPG 1843k .JPG file


----------



## thestewman

Simon


Have you tried having all your input sources hooked up to the D2 and remove the SVS completely ?

Anthem outputs directly to your amps. Maybe you can remove the Anthem from the equation if the hum is gone.

I am wondering about the RCA to Balanced convertors. I have seen problems with them because of manufacturer wiring differences in balanced connections.


----------



## MACCA350




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24794724
> 
> 
> I'm running 2 Seaton Submersive subs that are connected to the ASEQ with XLR-RCA adapters for each and the adapters came with the subs


FYI, Mark cuts the ground wire inside the XLR connector of those XLR-RCA adapters he supplies.


This caused my system to have a ground hum when I was running the Denon 3808. Reattaching that ground wire in the XLR connector fixed my ground hum.


Cheers


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24794978
> 
> 
> FYI, Mark cuts the ground wire inside the XLR connector of those XLR-RCA adapters he supplies.
> 
> 
> This caused my system to have a ground when I was running the Denon 3808. Reattaching that ground wire in the XLR connector fixed my ground hum.
> 
> 
> Cheers



You have got to be kidding me. This is the first I've heard that, even when I was having issues with one of the HP amps. Macca thank you so much for letting me know, so I've wasted about $70 this week on a XLR cable and an adapter not to mention $600 for putting the HT on its own circuit which is a good idea anyway. Is it easy to reconnect the ground on the adapters?


----------



## MACCA350

Thought I'd mentioned it before.


It's easy if you have a soldering iron. Otherwise just pack them back in the SubMersive boxes and pick up a couple new ones. May or may not fix your problem.


Cheers


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24794747
> 
> 
> Simon
> 
> 
> 
> I am wondering about the RCA to Balanced convertors. I have seen problems with them because of manufacturer wiring differences in balanced connections.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SimonNo10*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24794988
> 
> 
> 
> You have got to be kidding me. This is the first I've heard that, even when I was having issues with one of the HP amps. Macca thank you so much for letting me know, so I've wasted about $70 this week on a XLR cable and an adapter not to mention $600 for putting the HT on its own circuit which is a good idea anyway. Is it easy to reconnect the ground on the adapters?




Something I mentioned also. I hope that is the answer


----------



## barhoram

D2 Calibration/Arc Question:


I've changed my side surround speakers, and am re-running Arc. It's been over a year since I last did it...and need a refresher.


For the LCR and surround speakers:

I first set the TEST LEVEL for the LF speaker under Level Calibration, correct? and adjust the level on the D2 trim under level calibration until SPL reads 75 (C/Slow)?

I can ignore the other speaker levles?


For the Sub:

I adjust this with the actual sub volume (Velodyne DD15) vs the Level on the D2? Do I need to zero out the trim in the Test Level in the D2 for the Movie Sub before I start?

When I do it this way, the volume on my Sub is extremely low (8) to get to 75db on the RS meter. (its only 8 feet from listening position), but 8 on a DD15 seems low?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If Test Level and your Sub's volume setting are as they were the last time you ran ARC you can probably just go ahead and re-run ARC without any preliminaries. Changing out the Surrounds wouldn't affect those.


But anyway, what you do is zero out all the speaker levels (ARC will reload them with proper values), then adjust the Test Level line to get 75dB SPL measured at your center seating (ARC mic position #1).


Then go down to a Subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0 and adjust volume on your Sub itself to get 75dB SPL measured the same way. And by the way, volume 8 on a Velodyne DD15 sounds perfectly reasonable for a modest sized listening space.


For the Velodyne, make sure you put the resulting volume into its setup page as the power on volume, so you don't lose your volume setting after a power failure. You should be using the Preset that disables the Velodyne's EQ (Preset 6 as I recall), and the Crossover values on that setup page should all be "N/A" -- i.e go to the upper left Crossover value and press Reset to disable those, since ARC is doing your Crossover processing. (See the Velodyne Manual.)


Double check that you have ARC v3.0.2 installed on your Windows PC before you do your ARC run.

--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Is there a correction required for the sub measurement/reading with a Radio Shack digital SPL? Seems I recall they may be off for low frequencies.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Nope. First, those corrections are only for measuring single bass frequencies (lower bass frequencies need modest correction), and the test tones put out by the Anthem are a broad range of frequencies. Second, the measurements you are taking with the SPL meter are just to get things into the right ballpark. ARC will take care of doing the accurate measurements and adjusting the speaker/sub level values as needed as part of building the ARC solution.

--Bob


----------



## Kris Deering




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *barhoram*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24795741
> 
> 
> Is there a correction required for the sub measurement/reading with a Radio Shack digital SPL? Seems I recall they may be off for low frequencies.



If you are doing an EQ setup there are offsets for specific frequencies but for white noise readings you should be find using raw readings.


----------



## barhoram




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bob Pariseau*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24795638
> 
> 
> ^
> 
> 
> Then go down to a Subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0 and adjust volume on your Sub itself to get 75dB SPL measured the same way. And by the way, volume 8 on a Velodyne DD15 sounds perfectly reasonable for a modest sized listening space.
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob




Thanks Bob. After setup this way...I had to actually adjust the DD15 down to 4. Still OK? ARC seemed to run fine, and its uploading now..but it seems I'm at about 10% of the Sub's volume







Room is 13X26ish...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yep. The DD15 is a beast.


Check the Sub volume trim that ARC Uploads into Setup and see if it is within a few dB either side of 0dB. If so, then you are in fine shape.

--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MACCA350*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24795035
> 
> 
> Thought I'd mentioned it before.
> 
> 
> It's easy if you have a soldering iron. Otherwise just pack them back in the SubMersive boxes and pick up a couple new ones. May or may not fix your problem.
> 
> 
> Cheers



Thanks for that. I'm not a handy man so I've purchased online 2 adapters but wont arrive until next week. Hope it does fix the issue, but in the mean time the XLR-RCA adapter (will replace the RCA currently being used b/w the D2v and ASEQ) will arrive today.


*Update*


The adapter arrived and it fixed the issue with the interference in the speakers there all silent. If I put my ear to each Submersive I can hear the same slight interference that was coming from the speakers which I can only put down to the adapters I'm using for each one, and will have to wait until the other adapters I purchased online arrive next week. In the mean time all my speakers are silent with the RCA removed and now using the XLR Sub 1 Output on the D2v with the adapter in place on the ASEQ RCA Sub A input.


----------



## nucky

I just thought I would post this in here.


Right then lets get this clear, the Anthem mrx510 as a pre-amp, it sounds good it EQ's the speakers and subs well but thats it. It's not in the same league as the Anthem D2v, the D2v has got finesse it steers the sound around the room allot better, it's as if someone is running around your living room, it has got more detail it places the sound better.It feels like you are actually in the film, that's how realistic it is. Is the D2v worth it well yes it is, for me its the best home-theater sound that I have ever heard. To sum it up the mrx510 is like a 1980 mini, and the D2v is like a 2014 rollsroyce. And for the record the D2v blows a £1,500 receiver away for music. And it only took me 35 minutes to run 2 ARC configurations' 1 for films and 1 for music, so not as long as expected. I'm so impressed i have just bought it.


Here is my wife's view, she preferred the looks of the MRX but she didn't like the sound of it, for her it was too hard and bright and did not separate and steer the sound around the room as the D2v did. She said we want to go forward for our films not backwards so get the D2v back in, even though it is ugly.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Re: Ugly


I keep my D2v behind a veil.


It's in a shelf behind a door with a glass panel -- a double height shelf completely open in the back so there's plenty of air flow to dissipate heat. On the inside of the glass panel, attached with a strip of velcro top and bottom, I've placed a nice piece of sheer curtain cloth -- gathered with loose folds; not pulled taught. The sheer cloth passes light easily, so the remote control has no problem sending through it to the D2v. With the door closed and the D2v turned off, all you see is the sheer cloth because the inside of the shelf is dark. With the D2v turned on, you also see the Front Panel display and button lights of the D2v.


Voila!

--Bob


----------



## AVfile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nucky*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24802536
> 
> 
> I just thought I would post this in here.
> 
> 
> Right then lets get this clear, the Anthem mrx510 as a pre-amp, it sounds good it EQ's the speakers and subs well but thats it. It's not in the same league as the Anthem D2v, the D2v has got finesse it steers the sound around the room allot better, it's as if someone is running around your living room, it has got more detail it places the sound better.It feels like you are actually in the film, that's how realistic it is. Is the D2v worth it well yes it is, for me its the best home-theater sound that I have ever heard. To sum it up the mrx510 is like a 1980 mini, and the D2v is like a 2014 rollsroyce. And for the record the D2v blows a £1,500 receiver away for music. And it only took me 35 minutes to run 2 ARC configurations' 1 for films and 1 for music, so not as long as expected. I'm so impressed i have just bought it.
> 
> 
> Here is my wife's view, she preferred the looks of the MRX but she didn't like the sound of it, for her it was too hard and bright and did not separate and steer the sound around the room as the D2v did. She said we want to go forward for our films not backwards so get the D2v back in, even though it is ugly.



Did you look at the AVM-50v?


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AVfile*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24803305
> 
> 
> Did you look at the AVM-50v?



I thought the new Anthem MX line had most of the bells and whistles that the AM50v and The D2v are missing. Such as ethernet, USB etc.

Still may be lacking HDMI 2.0 and I know they are missing H265, HDCP 2.2 and 4K.

I also was told they have better or more powerful ARC processing.


Maybe there may be a new model some day to replace the D2v ?


----------



## stanger89




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24803513
> 
> 
> I thought the new Anthem MX line had most of the bells and whistles that the AM50v and The D2v are missing. Such as ethernet, USB etc.
> 
> Still may be lacking HDMI 2.0 and I know they are missing H265, HDCP 2.2 and 4K.



You don't need H.265 in an SSP or Video processor, that only matters in devices that will actually play content, source devices, smart TVs etc.


> Quote:
> I also was told they have better or more powerful ARC processing.



It's got a newer/"better" PC GUI, but ARC itself is better/more powerful on the 50V/D2V.


What I would love to see, is for Anthem to ditch the video processor and the associated cost from their next SSP. I've got a Lumagen Radiance which is better in every way than the Anthem video processor. Of course this means I can upgrade to 4K without swapping out my 50V, but at some point object audio will be nice to have and I'd need an SSP for that most likely.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24803513
> 
> 
> I thought the new Anthem MX line had most of the bells and whistles that the AM50v and The D2v are missing. Such as ethernet, USB etc.
> 
> Still may be lacking HDMI 2.0 and I know they are missing H265, HDCP 2.2 and 4K.
> 
> I also was told they have better or more powerful ARC processing.
> 
> 
> Maybe there may be a new model some day to replace the D2v ?


That's incorrect the D2v and AVM50v have unrestricted ARC. Though the receivers have a prettier GUI the ARC on the rexeivers is limited compared to the version in the processors.


----------



## thestewman

Thank you guys. Good to know.

And yes ditching the processor might be a good idea.

What I especially want is for the Anthem device to be able to pass and most especially switch HDMI 4K

I wasn't aware the Lumagen could handle 4K or has 4K switching capability yet.


----------



## Thxtheater

I def


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24804182
> 
> 
> Thank you guys. Good to know.
> 
> And yes ditching the processor might be a good idea.
> 
> What I especially want is for the Anthem device to be able to pass and most especially switch HDMI 4K
> 
> I wasn't aware the Lumagen could handle 4K or has 4K switching capability yet.



I defer to Bob but the question is if the HDMI pass through has enough bandwidth for UHD/4K support. It will do UHD 24fps as that is part of the HDMI 1.4 spec The issue will be UHD 60fps.


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Thxtheater*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24804221
> 
> 
> I def
> 
> I defer to Bob but the question is if the HDMI pass through has enough bandwidth for UHD/4K support. It will do UHD 24fps as that is part of the HDMI 1.4 spec The issue will be UHD 60fps.


You are correct but the D2v does not

pass through 4K. Even though it is in the spec Anthem said they were not required to handle 4K and they did not include it.


----------



## tranle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42850_50#post_24804182
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> And yes ditching the processor might be a good idea.
> 
> ...



The problem I see at ditching the processor is you loose all the onscreen display like: volume, input selected, input mode selected...


----------



## thestewman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tranle*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24804659
> 
> 
> The problem I see at ditching the processor is you loose all the onscreen display like: volume, input selected, input mode selected...


You lose the old slow antiquated system you had that used S-Video.

You write a new modern updated digital system that does not require you to stop viewing your current programming like possibly your new display does.


----------



## Thxtheater




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thestewman*  /t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/42870#post_24804285
> 
> 
> You are correct but the D2v does not
> 
> pass through 4K. Even though it is in the spec Anthem said they were not required to handle 4K and they did not include it.


Collective ugh!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If I recall correctly, when that 3D upgrade hardware was developed there were still no 4K sources and no 4K capable displays.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Does it pass xvYcc color?


----------



## barhoram

Is there any 'reasonable' way to send decoded DTS-MA over HDMI to a D2 (non D2V)? I have a HTPC running XBMC and it can not decode DTS-MA...only bit stream...so it appears the best i can do from the HTPC is have it decode the lossy Core DTS track. Wondering if a low end receiver that can decode DTS-MA..or something similar. I don't need 3d...and just can't justify a D2V...


----------



## obie_fl

At the risk of being a smart*ss how about a real blu-ray player? I suppose since you are talking XBMC you are streaming in which case get an Oppo 103 and use it either as an DMR (renderer) or use the HDMI input. Cheaper than the D2 upgrade. I haven't been following the HTPC world but can XBMC push to a DMR like the Oppo? I went through the same thought process a year or two ago and finally bit the bullet and sold the D2 for a D2v3D. Admittedly it was a difficult pill to swallow at the time but I have no regrets. 

(I forget can the Oppo decode DTS-MA on the HDMI input? Bob?)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It can NOT. Its HDMI Inputs accept only traditional, lossy, DD and DTS Bitstreams, but also LPCM up to 7.1 and up to 192KHz 24-bit, if the source device can output that.

Now, if you are streaming to it over the house network (i.e., media files pushed or pulled from a DLNA server), then lossless Bitstreams CAN be part of those files.
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

barhoram said:


> Is there any 'reasonable' way to send decoded DTS-MA over HDMI to a D2 (non D2V)? I have a HTPC running XBMC and it can not decode DTS-MA...only bit stream...so it appears the best i can do from the HTPC is have it decode the lossy Core DTS track. Wondering if a low end receiver that can decode DTS-MA..or something similar. I don't need 3d...and just can't justify a D2V...


It's not likely you will be able to do this with any cheap AVR. The HDMI *OUTPUT* on those will likely be limited to LPCM 2.0 down-mix (i.e., intended for the built in stereo speakers on a TV.)
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

barhoram said:


> Is there any 'reasonable' way to send decoded DTS-MA over HDMI to a D2 (non D2V)? I have a HTPC running XBMC and it can not decode DTS-MA...only bit stream...so it appears the best i can do from the HTPC is have it decode the lossy Core DTS track. Wondering if a low end receiver that can decode DTS-MA..or something similar. I don't need 3d...and just can't justify a D2V...


Another method.
Get a Popcorn Hour network media player or a Dune or a Mede8er.
They play Blu Ray video files in many formats such as MKV MP4 Mt2s etc and certain models handle DTS-Hd Master and Dolby True HD audio


----------



## runninkyle17

I would like to report that my D2v-3D is working perfectly now  There was a problem with the connection between the top 3D board and the main video board. A quick replacement of the full video board and new 3D board fixed that and now everything is up and working like it should.


----------



## thestewman

runninkyle17 said:


> I would like to report that my D2v-3D is working perfectly now  There was a problem with the connection between the top 3D board and the main video board. A quick replacement of the full video board and new 3D board fixed that and now everything is up and working like it should.


Good to hear you got it solved

Not an uncommon technical problem with the updated boards being done by dealers and users


----------



## JDCaduceus

Dear All, 

I am just getting into setting up my D2v3d for the first time. I have the OSD working and all of my cables (HDMI) are plugged into the Processor. Can anyone recommend the best way to setup the D2v3d? I know you can do it through OSD but should I try the Serial connection on the processor to my HTPC? Any thoughts on the best way to go out programming and setting up my HDMI inputs and settings would greatly be appreciated. My setup includes the following:

1. HDMI from Cable box to D2v
2. HDMI from HTPC to D2v
3. HDMI from PS3 to D2v
4. HDMI from Surveillance system to D2v

How can I assign each HDMI source to their respective input? Also, I have noticed that when I power off my TV (receiving a signal from my HTPC) that if I were to turn the TV back on that the D2v does not switch to that signal. So I have to power cycle the D2v to get it to see the signal from the HTPC - is there a way to address this? Is this a common problem?

I have a 5 channel setup with 2 Subs (Both subs are hooked up to RCA outputs for D2v). Of note, only one sub seems to be receiving a signal but I attribute this to not having completed the setup. 

Lastly, any recommendations on whether or not to use ARC after or before setup? Any help with suggestions on how to use ARC? 

Thanks for all the help!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Set everything up first before you run ARC.

Pull out the Manual and just go through the Setup menu in order from top to bottom. It's a bit daunting to start because there's so much in there, but as you get into it you'll find it is pretty straightforward, and the factory defaults are reasonably chosen to make it easier.

Start with getting video output working. That's first on the list in the Setup menu. You can test that with the built in test patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" key -- use "Back to exit). Note that if you have NO video output, you can still navigate the Setup menu using the Front Panel Display. The Setup menu pictures in the Manual will help you find your way around. Once you've got video, you can continue with Setup menu stuff on your TV.

Then specify your speaker configuration and basics such as speaker distances. Use the built in test tones (Setup > Level Calibration) to check the speakers are wired correctly.

Then do your Sources. Pick one source device and get that working first and then you'll have the pattern for the others. Folks often use a Blu-ray player for this since they can check things with an audio/video calibration disc.

I recommend you do this using the regular remote and the on-screen display. Get things working before you futz with serial cable control.
--Bob


----------



## barasn

think to buy avm 50 3d price here 3000 usd second hand it s really worth it 

last question how many year avm 50 3d up-to-date when will i need to change it 2 3 4 5 year?


----------



## AVfile

barasn said:


> think to buy avm 50 3d price here 3000 usd second hand it s really worth it
> 
> last question how many year avm 50 3d up-to-date when will i need to change it 2 3 4 5 year?


You mean 50v? I would go for it if the ARC mic is included. No reason to upgrade for several years.


----------



## JDCaduceus

Thanks Bob! I actually was able to get the video out working and set up my sources correctly along with speaker distances etc. My only problem now seems to be the following:

1. I would like some help with what to select on the audio processing. Most of my audio comes over HDMI from my HTPC and is either DTS, DTS HD or True HD; sometimes AC3, DD5. I would like to be able to have the D2v to recognize and play DTS-HD and True-HD audio but am confused as to what setting to use - PLX? DD5? Neo6? DTS ES? Any of the THX? Some guidance would be appreciated - wish D2v would just auto select based on source audio - is there a way to do that?

2. I selected to have 2 subs in my Movie configuration but was wondering how to check this and if this was ok for me to use when testing with ARC?

3. I am wondering - I have things working well now - sound and picture is good (just need to get some preset processing in #1 figured out), but if it sounds good is ARC necessary? Does ARC make a difference? 

thanks
Conrad


----------



## AVfile

JDCaduceus said:


> I have a 5 channel setup with 2 Subs (Both subs are hooked up to RCA outputs for D2v). Of note, only one sub seems to be receiving a signal but I attribute this to not having completed the setup.





JDCaduceus said:


> 1. I would like some help with what to select on the audio processing. Most of my audio comes over HDMI from my HTPC and is either DTS, DTS HD or True HD; sometimes AC3, DD5. I would like to be able to have the D2v to recognize and play DTS-HD and True-HD audio but am confused as to what setting to use - PLX? DD5? Neo6? DTS ES? Any of the THX? Some guidance would be appreciated - wish D2v would just auto select based on source audio - is there a way to do that?
> 
> 2. I selected to have 2 subs in my Movie configuration but was wondering how to check this and if this was ok for me to use when testing with ARC?
> 
> 3. I am wondering - I have things working well now - sound and picture is good, but if it sounds good is ARC necessary? Does ARC make a difference?



Since you are running 5.1 there is no use for any of the 6.1 or 7.1 modes like EX, ES, PLIIx, Neo6, THX Ultra2. You should be fine with the defaults but you can define your defaults in the MODE PRESETS menu including the "last used" option.
No, regardless how many subs you actually have the processor has only 1 sub channel. When using ARC set the number of subs to 1. All subs will receive the same signal.
Of the 40,000 posts in this thread, about 20,000 are about the difference ARC makes. Once you have the speaker config and listener position setup properly, run ARC. You won't know until you measure your room, then seeing the charts is believing! Bob has posted ARC setup tips many times, including how to position the mic, etc. Get this right before you start to avoid wasting time. The user manual is a very good starting point.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

JDCaduceus said:


> Thanks Bob! I actually was able to get the video out working and set up my sources correctly along with speaker distances etc. My only problem now seems to be the following:
> 
> 1. I would like some help with what to select on the audio processing. Most of my audio comes over HDMI from my HTPC and is either DTS, DTS HD or True HD; sometimes AC3, DD5. I would like to be able to have the D2v to recognize and play DTS-HD and True-HD audio but am confused as to what setting to use - PLX? DD5? Neo6? DTS ES? Any of the THX? Some guidance would be appreciated - wish D2v would just auto select based on source audio - is there a way to do that?
> 
> 2. I selected to have 2 subs in my Movie configuration but was wondering how to check this and if this was ok for me to use when testing with ARC?
> 
> 3. I am wondering - I have things working well now - sound and picture is good (just need to get some preset processing in [URL=http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1]#1 [/URL] figured out), but if it sounds good is ARC necessary? Does ARC make a difference?
> 
> thanks
> Conrad


ARC makes a huge difference. Definitely plan on doing an ARC setup.

The 1 vs 2 Subs setting in the D2v is only used to alter how the Subwoofer volume trim setting is implemented (Setup > Level Calibration). When using ARC it is mandatory that you set that to 1 Sub even though you have more than one. (The Subwoofer volume trim ARC Uploads into the D2v is calculated assuming that 1 Sub is set.)

You can test that both Subs are functioning by playing the Subwoofer test tone (Setup > Level Calibration). Note that there is a separate setting which lets you change whether the second Sub output of the XLR set is used for wiring a second Sub or for Zone 2 functionality. If you are using the XLR outputs, and only get Sub test tones from one Sub, check that setting (Setup > ADC).

There is also only one distance setting for the Subwoofer. Use the average of the distances for your two Subs. NOTE: Phase is a function of distance, so you must set all your speaker distances before adjusting Sub Phase (next paragraph).

Since you have more than one Sub, you need to adjust Phase for each of them *BEFORE* your run your ARC setup. The Phase setting on each Sub will alter how they interact with each other, and ARC hears them playing together so that needs to be set before you do ARC Measurement. Power one Sub at a time and adjust the Phase setting ON EACH SUB ITSELF to maximize bass when playing content through the LF/RF speakers in Stereo Audio Mode. The hiss between FM radio stations is something you can use for this. Bass is only a small portion of that hiss so listen carefully as you adjust Phase. Again, do this separately for each Sub, then power them both up again before doing your ARC Measurement. (Since you don't have an ARC solution set up yet, you can set a Crossover of 80Hz while testing Phase to make sure bass in the LF/RF content gets steered to the Subwoofer.)

It is also good to get the Sub volumes into the right ballpark before you run ARC (and for that matter, before you adjust Phase, as it makes it easier to hear). Zero all the lines in Setup > Level Calibration, then use the Test Level line (test tone will come from LF speaker) and adjust that to yield 75dB SPL measured with a sound pressure level meter at your ARC mic #1 position (center seating). Everyone uses the inexpensive, digital readout SPL meter sold by Radio Shack. Point that straight up, held at arm's length, at seated ear height, and set to "Slow" response and "C" weighting.

Leave the rest of the Level Calibration lines at 0dB. Go down to either Subwoofer line and, leaving that at 0dB, adjust the volume using the volume knob on the Sub itself. Since you have 2 subs, power one at a time for this and adjust its volume knob to yield 72dB SPL (not 75). When both Subs are producing 72dB SPL, they will combine to yield roughly 75dB SPL. Ballpark settings are fine for this, as ARC will do all the fine tuning of volume levels.

With the Test Level line and the Sub volume knobs set, and with speaker distances and Sub Phase dialed in, you can now do your ARC Measurement pass. NOTE: You only have to do these preliminaries once (presuming you don't shift speakers around), as what you set up here will still be in place for any subsequent ARC runs you do.

The Audio Surround Modes have to do with how fewer content channels are expanded to produce more speakers of output. There are several different algorithms offered to do that. But the first thing to note is that if the content you are playing already has the same (or more) channels than your speaker configuration, then there's nothing for a Surround Mode to do -- so it won't be offered.

If you do want to expand content to more speakers (e.g., stereo content played in 5.1 speakers), then the choice of setting is ENTIRELY PERSONAL PREFERENCE. You can adjust this on-the-fly using the Mode button on the remote while playing real content. (When using the Mode button, only the choices that actually DO something -- given the content you are playing and your speaker configuration -- will be offered.) When you finally settle on which Surround Modes you prefer, you can set them as defaults in Setup > Mode Presets for each Source. You can still alter them on the fly to double-check if your defaults are really to your taste.

I recommend you leave THX post processing turned OFF after you get ARC set up.
--Bob


----------



## JDCaduceus

Bob - thanks so much for the advice!!!!! Will do what you recommend.

C


----------



## barhoram

Another quick refresher...Can ARC be applied to the 6 channel Analog Input signal? Or is is restricted to digital inputs only?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Works fine with either Stereo or Multi-channel Analog. You need to set the input to ANALOG-DSP (not ANALOG-DIRECT) so that the Analog input signal can be re-digitized prior to the processing.

Also check the Setup > ADC menu and make sure the conversion rate for re-digitizing both the Stereo and Multi-channel Analog inputs are set to 96KHz for best quality.

Since ARC will be taking care of all your speaker configuration issues -- including volume trims, distance adjustments, Crossovers, and mixing (in addition to Room Correction) -- make sure the multi-channel Analog output of your SOURCE device is set to do none of that. Typically this would involve telling your source device that all speakers are "large" (to disable its Crossover processing), equidistant (any distance will do so long as they are all the same), and need no volume trims. If the Source has 7.1 Analog outputs, it remains OK to let the Source down-mix 7.1 content to 5.1 Analog output for delivery to the Anthem.
--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Ah..I think I had it on Analog Direct...must be why the option to turn room correction On was not there. As usual, THANKS BOB!!


----------



## shn750

*Original D2 (not D2v) Support for Latest UHD TVs*

Hello All,

I’ve been using an original D2 (not D2V) for years running an old Pioneer 5050HD plasma (1080i). I also added ARC later when it was available as an option. Overall I’m very happy with the D2 and it’s given me years of trouble free use. 

I’m looking to get a 4k TV soon. I’m not concerned with 3D so I don’t need any pass through. Also I’m not looking to upgrade to the latest D2V. This is not an option at this point.

My question is can I get the old D2 working with a 4k TV? I realize that currently true 4K signals aren't there yet and I realize I might lose of audio capabilities of the D2 with the newer hi-rez audio formats. But overall, can I get the D2 to work with a 4k TV? First of all, for the D2 video “native” output, what do you set it to? Obviously I can’t match it the native resolution or a 4k TV, so I can’t specify 3840x2160 or something similar. Do I set it to just a 1080p resolution? Will the 4k TV take this resolution passed to it and then use its own internal scaler to up-convert to its native resolution? 

I currently just use the D2 for regular HD content, streaming, and listening to FLAC audio. I think my requirements are pretty simple and straightforward, but I need to start researching if I will encounter any gotchas if I purchase a new 4k television.
Thanks for any comments that you can provide.

Regards
Steve


----------



## stanger89

If you don't have a 4K source, it will work just fine, just like it does today. If you have a 4K source, you'll have to bypass the D2.


----------



## thestewman

^
The D2, D2v and D2v 3D are not capable of any form of 4K. 
When you decide to buy the 4K display make sure you research the display's capability of how it handles other formats and what the manufacturer promises to do when the formats change. 
Currently I think only Samsung and Sony have any firmware upgrade capability.
You only have a limited source of true 4K sources. Sony has its rental and purchases in The Sony Entertaiment network and the 4K FMP-10X player.
Netflix is currently streaming one show in 4K. You need HDMI 2.0 and H265 to view it.
The conversion of HD video to 4K does give you an incredible picture though conversion of SD material and DVD is not so good.


----------



## shn750

stanger89 said:


> If you don't have a 4K source, it will work just fine, just like it does today. If you have a 4K source, you'll have to bypass the D2.


So what should I put as the native resolution in the D2 for the 4k display panel? Does it even matter since the 4K TV will upscale anyways?

Thanks
Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Use 1080p output from your D2.
--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

I'm looking for a 3.5mm male to male mono cable to use for a trigger from my D2v to amp.
I can find 3.5mm stereo cables all over the place, but mono cables are few and far between.


So, is a mono cable absolutely necessary, or will a stereo cable work??
If it is necessary, does anyone know where to find one ??


Thanks,
Tom


----------



## thestewman

tngiloy said:


> I'm looking for a 3.5mm male to male mono cable to use for a trigger from my D2v to amp.
> I can find 3.5mm stereo cables all over the place, but mono cables are few and far between.
> 
> 
> So, is a mono cable absolutely necessary, or will a stereo cable work??
> If it is necessary, does anyone know where to find one ??
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom


Tom

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Male-Mono-Cable-CA66/dp/B004GIFBMY

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/133673-REG/Comprehensive_MP_MP_6ST_Mini_Male_to_Mini.html

and easily obtained at Radio Shack or Best Buy'


----------



## tngiloy

thestewman said:


> Tom
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Male-Mono-Cable-CA66/dp/B004GIFBMY
> 
> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/133673-REG/Comprehensive_MP_MP_6ST_Mini_Male_to_Mini.html
> 
> and easily obtained at Radio Shack or Best Buy'



Thanks for the links. 
Guess I'm going to the mall tomorrow.


Tom


----------



## wse

Is ARC better than Audyssey XT32?


----------



## tngiloy

wse said:


> Is ARC better than Audyssey XT32?


 
The following is my opinion.


The one thing Audyssey XT32 does better than ARC is balance dual subwoofers. ARC treats your subs as one. It does no phase/distance or volume matching of dual subs.
With ARC you will need to spend time matching your subs using the great Quick Measure feature, or buy a used SVS AS EQ1 (no longer made) or a DSPeaker Anti-mode 2.0 or 8033 or similar product to match your subs one to another before running ARC.


ARC is better in most other respects IMHO.
ARC comes with a calibrated mic. You will need to buy an Audyssey PRO-KIT at about $500 and a liscence for your processor or receiver at $150.
With ARC you can tweak your results much more than you can do with Audyssey XT32. Again you will need a PRO-KIT to be able to tweak as much as you can do with ARC.
And, most importantly, ARC comes on Anthem products.


I ran Audyssey XT32 with a PRO-KIT on an Integra DHC-83 and could never get the sound where I was used to hearing with my old D2 with ARC. Perhaps I would have been happier with a different Audyssey equipped processor (Denon/Marantz maybe), but I sold the Integra and my PRO-KIT and bought a D2v with ARC and I'm very happy. Again.


Anthem isn't perfect. ARC isn't perfect. But I much prefer my D2v and ARC to my Integra with XT32 and a PRO-KIT.


If Anthem were to add multiple subwoofer correction to ARC it would be as close to perfect a room correction system as is out there in the A/V world.


Tom


----------



## Thxtheater

The way ARC does it's sub correction is correct and the preferred way. You ideally should treat all subs as one and apply an EQ that way. While it may seem inuitive to EQ them all individually, anthem is correct in their approach. You can certainly argue that there is still manual setting of distance and phase but it's pretty straightforward to do that.


----------



## Roger Dressler

tngiloy said:


> So, is a mono cable absolutely necessary, or will a stereo cable work??


Stereo cables work perfectly.


----------



## tngiloy

Roger Dressler said:


> Stereo cables work perfectly.



Thanks Roger. I was actually able to find a mono cable at RS, even though I could not find it on their website.


----------



## tngiloy

Thxtheater said:


> The way ARC does it's sub correction is correct and the preferred way. You ideally should treat all subs as one and apply an EQ that way. While it may seem inuitive to EQ them all individually, anthem is correct in their approach. You can certainly argue that there is still manual setting of distance and phase but it's pretty straightforward to do that.



Audyssey also treats the subs as one. But first it eq's the subs to each other, then matches them together, treating them as one, to the other speakers (and the room). 
The sub matching that XT32 --and the SVS AS-EQ1 and the DSPeaker units, and others-- just saves the time needed to phase match the subs yourself.


I spent hours matching my subs using QM, and was able to get it pretty good.
I used the SVS AS-EQ1 and it took minutes and did a better job. I sold the SVS unit when I bought the Integra since XT32 had the same sub eq included.
Since I went back to Anthem I have been using the DSPeaker Anti-mode 2.0 Dual Core. It matches my subs to each other better and faster than I can do. I then use ARC.
I stand by my statement that ARC would be improved if it were able to do dual sub equalization on top of everything else it does now. Hopefully they will include that feature on their future units. 


Tom


----------



## Thxtheater

tngiloy said:


> Audyssey also treats the subs as one. But first it eq's the subs to each other, then matches them together, treating them as one, to the other speakers (and the room).
> The sub matching that XT32 --and the SVS AS-EQ1 and the DSPeaker units, and others-- just saves the time needed to phase match the subs yourself.
> 
> 
> I spent hours matching my subs using QM, and was able to get it pretty good.
> I used the SVS AS-EQ1 and it took minutes and did a better job. I sold the SVS unit when I bought the Integra since XT32 had the same sub eq included.
> Since I went back to Anthem I have been using the DSPeaker Anti-mode 2.0 Dual Core. It matches my subs to each other better and faster than I can do. I then use ARC.
> I stand by my statement that ARC would be improved if it were able to do dual sub equalization on top of everything else it does now. Hopefully they will include that feature on their future units.
> 
> 
> Tom


This is just symantics in terminology but ARC does do multiple sub EQ it doesn't phase and level match multiple subs. 

I think what you're saying--and it's a fair point--is the option to do multiple sub phase and level matching in addition to the EQ curve. 

It's important to note that phase isn't part of even the single sub proceess with ARC.


----------



## dmusoke

Let's not forget that Audyssey down-samples all data to 48kHz which shocked the heck of out me. So all your Hirez sources at 96kHz, 176kHz and 192kHz will be processed at 48kHz by Audyssey. So What's the point paying extra coin for these pristine hirez sources only to be down-sampled to 48KHz??? The analogs will be output with a limited frequency range of 24 kHz(in theory).


Please see attachment of the Marantz AV8801 pre-pro which uses Audyssey MultiEQ XT32. The frequency response curve with Xt32 activated speaks for itself.

But ARC samples and processes analog signals up to 96KHz and digitals up to 192kHz. BuYah!!!


http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/audi...m-correction-arc-system-part-1/all-pages.html


----------



## thestewman

dmusoke said:


> Let's not forget that Audyssey down-samples all data to 48kHz which shocked the heck of out me. So all your Hirez sources at 96kHz, 176kHz and 192kHz will be processed at 48kHz by Audyssey. So What's the point paying extra coin for these pristine hirez sources only to be down-sampled to 48KHz??? The analogs will be output with a limited frequency range of 24 kHz(in theory).
> 
> 
> Please see attachment of the Marantz AV8801 pre-pro which uses Audyssey MultiEQ XT32. The frequency response curve with Xt32 activated speaks for itself.
> 
> But ARC samples and processes analog signals up to 96KHz and digitals up to 192kHz. BuYah!!!
> 
> 
> http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/audi...m-correction-arc-system-part-1/all-pages.html


----------



## tngiloy

Thxtheater said:


> This is just symantics in terminology but ARC does do multiple sub EQ it doesn't phase and level match multiple subs.
> 
> I think what you're saying--and it's a fair point--is the option to do multiple sub phase and level matching in addition to the EQ curve.
> 
> *It's important to note that phase isn't part of even the single sub proceess with ARC*.



I use the process explained in the link at the bottom of dmusoke's post to phase match my subs to my speakers. Takes a little extra time but its well worth it. It's an important final step when doing ARC.


----------



## tngiloy

dmusoke said:


> Let's not forget that Audyssey down-samples all data to 48kHz which shocked the heck of out me. So all your Hirez sources at 96kHz, 176kHz and 192kHz will be processed at 48kHz by Audyssey. So What's the point paying extra coin for these pristine hirez sources only to be down-sampled to 48KHz??? The analogs will be output with a limited frequency range of 24 kHz(in theory).
> 
> 
> Please see attachment of the Marantz AV8801 pre-pro which uses Audyssey MultiEQ XT32. The frequency response curve with Xt32 activated speaks for itself.
> 
> But ARC samples and processes analog signals up to 96KHz and digitals up to 192kHz. BuYah!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/audi...m-correction-arc-system-part-1/all-pages.html


Great point. I had forgotten about the down sampling that Audyssey does.
One more reason to go with ARC.


----------



## MStanic

Will the ARC-2 software be available for the D2V-3D? Is it better than the ARC-1 software we currently use?


----------



## Kris Deering

No and No. ARC-2 is more of a software upgrade for the ARC process because the new receivers work over USB. There is no benefit in terms of actually processing performance and from what I've been told by the engineers at Anthem the ARC solution in the D2V is still the most robust and capable of all Anthem products.


----------



## marky301067

Will the D2V be able to get updated to Atmos and DTS-UHD in the near future?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ That seems highly unlikely. It would take a massive hardware change to add additional speaker outputs, and in the current hardware configuration (i.e., max 7.1 output) you'd be limited in say, Atmos, to a 5.1 configuration of regular speakers plus 2 height speakers. I.e., the minimum configuration for Atmos.

Doing the firmware work needed to support just the minimum configuration hardly seems worth it.
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

marky301067 said:


> Will the D2V be able to get updated to Atmos and DTS-UHD in the near future?


How many Atmos or DTS-UHD videos or recordings are there ?

And Anthem has yet to get on the 4K video bandwagon as other manufacturers and streaming sources are rapidly doing.

Maybe Anthem will surprise us with a D3 
At MRSP of $10-$12000 US I'll bet


----------



## stanger89

thestewman said:


> And Anthem has yet to get on the 4K video bandwagon as other manufacturers and streaming sources are rapidly doing.


I don't blame them, Lumagen hasn't either (well not really). Take a look in the projector or AVR forums for the disaster that is 4K right now. Currently there seem to be two tactics being taken by AVR manufacturers. Onkyo is going the HDMI 2.0b route, only 8 bit, 4:2:0 color, 10.2Gbps support but with HDCP 2.2 so it should work with the Sony Puck for 4k content. Many other manufacturers (Pioneer, etc) are going the HDMI 2.0a route, full 18Gbps support but without HDCP 2.0, so while they support the full HDMI 2.0 bandwidth for high bit depths and frame rates, there's a very good chance they won't support any commercial 4K content due to lacking HDCP 2.2. Apparently the 18Gbps HDMI 2.0 chips with HDCP 2.2 are in vanishingly short supply. 

So frankly it would be stupid for Anthem to release a 4K SSP today, especially if it's in the 8-10k MSRP range, since anything they would release with currently available hardware would essentially already be obsolete, especially given that there is essentially no 4k content available right now. Rumors are Lumagen is just waiting for hardware availability (presumably 18Gbps/HDCP 2.2 HDMI chips) to release their true 4K processors, if I were Anthem, I would be doing the same thing.



thestewman said:


> Maybe Anthem will surprise us with a D3
> At MRSP of $10-$12000 US I'll bet


I'd love to be surprised by an AVM60 without a video processor and the associated cost. Unless they decided to partner with Lumagen, now that would be something special. Anthem audio with Lumagen video, that would be a match made in Heaven just about.


----------



## barasn

stanger89 said:


> I don't blame them, Lumagen hasn't either (well not really). Take a look in the projector or AVR forums for the disaster that is 4K right now. Currently there seem to be two tactics being taken by AVR manufacturers. Onkyo is going the HDMI 2.0b route, only 8 bit, 4:2:0 color, 10.2Gbps support but with HDCP 2.2 so it should work with the Sony Puck for 4k content. Many other manufacturers (Pioneer, etc) are going the HDMI 2.0a route, full 18Gbps support but without HDCP 2.0, so while they support the full HDMI 2.0 bandwidth for high bit depths and frame rates, there's a very good chance they won't support any commercial 4K content due to lacking HDCP 2.2. Apparently the 18Gbps HDMI 2.0 chips with HDCP 2.2 are in vanishingly short supply.
> 
> So frankly it would be stupid for Anthem to release a 4K SSP today, especially if it's in the 8-10k MSRP range, since anything they would release with currently available hardware would essentially already be obsolete, especially given that there is essentially no 4k content available right now. Rumors are Lumagen is just waiting for hardware availability (presumably 18Gbps/HDCP 2.2 HDMI chips) to release their true 4K processors, if I were Anthem, I would be doing the same thing.
> 
> I'd love to be surprised by an AVM60 without a video processor and the associated cost. Unless they decided to partner with Lumagen, now that would be something special. Anthem audio with Lumagen video, that would be a match made in Heaven just about.


hey i think to buy AVM 50v 3D its still worth or i need to wait 4k processor?


----------



## stanger89

That's a tough question, it sort of depends on if you "need" it (do you have something that works, or are you needing something now), budget, how long you feel you need to keep it for it to be worthwhile, etc.

The 50V is a great piece, I love mine. 4K? It's not really baked yet, we still don't really know what the requirements for "permanent" 4K systems will be (gamut, HDR, bit depth, etc), and we likely won't until the 4K Blu-ray specs are announced which seems somewhat unlikely to happen soon, maybe holiday 2015 if we're lucky. Atmos, etc? What's that going to come on, Blu-ray? How many movies use it, and are you actually going to have the 11 speakers to get the most out of it?

Personally, Anthem's got a pretty good track record of providing some sort of upgrade path (you may have to act somewhat quickly), so if you're OK upgrading in a couple years, then a 50V now could be a good option.


----------



## Thxtheater

Speculating is always fun. Anthem is a boutique shop like many of the high end makers. They normally don't compete in the features category like the mass market products. If you look at the evolution way back to the AVM20 days each processor platform has had +/- a 5-10 year life cycle including an upgrade path. That's really unheard of in this market segment. 

I doubt there will be any further hardware upgrades in the D2/50 platform. There will be new models on a new platform but the "when" is the issue. Anthem, as a boutique, will need to weigh when the right time to enter the market and see. Will there be HDbaseT connections? Atmos processing? Network streaming? UHD scaling? etc. 

I think that once Anthem can lay out a platform foundation, see that the next gen market is ready, then you'll see that happen. But without UHD displays and UHD content in the mainstream it's still a niche and nascent market with products at a premium so I wouldn't expect any new models for at least a year and if there are new features then I'd expect to see them in the receivers first before the pre-pros.


----------



## barhoram

Remind me...is there any way to store a configuration on a PC to upload later? My brother has his unit out for service and will be getting a loaner from the dealer. Wanting to make a copy of the config and load to the loaner unit. Can this be done?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem had Utility programs for just this purpose (included as extra content in the ARC install download from the Anthem site).

However, I don't believe they've ever been updated to account for the changes that came with the 3D passthrough firmware.

Hopefully Nick can chime in if I'm incorrect here, but at the moment, I don't believe there is any tool to do this for you. Deep sigh....

Note that there are both Setup menu and Video Source Adjust menu settings that would need to be be saved/restored. There used to be separate Utility programs for those two.
--Bob


----------



## barhoram

I'm pretty sure I have the two old tools on my laptop. Think it would cause an issue trying to load from a D2 to D2(possibly a D2V, not sure yet)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You should probably talk to Anthem tech support and ask them which tools you could use to do the migration. For a D2 to D2 migration, the older tools should work since that's still on firmware of the same vintage.

I've been working with the D2v/3D for so long now that I've forgotten what the status was on that stuff for the original D2.

If it's a D2 to D2v migration, your best bet is probably paper and pencil. There are quite a lot of changes in settings between those.
--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

barhoram said:


> Remind me...is there any way to store a configuration on a PC to upload later? My brother has his unit out for service and will be getting a loaner from the dealer. Wanting to make a copy of the config and load to the loaner unit. Can this be done?


 
Bob or Anthem tech can confirm this, but I think you should be able to upload his most recent ARC solution to the loaner unit. Assuming that the unit will be going in the same room with the same speakers in the same positions. As always you will have to manually enter the speaker distances, but ARC will put in the speaker configurations.
BTW, its very nice that his dealer is loaning him a D2 or D2v unit. Could be wrong, but I don't think many dealers would give up their demo. 


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If it's D2 to D2 you should be able to just re-upload the ARC solution from the older unit. I'm pretty sure the current ARC Windows app won't balk because the serial number of the new D2 doesn't match from when the solution was built.

If it's a D2 to D2v migration you really should redo the ARC Measurement as the hardware in the D2v is capable of better processing. Of course all this depends on how long you expect to use the loaner. If just a week or so, you might want to do just the bare minimum of futzing with it.
--Bob


----------



## Tinza

I tested the following three firmware: 3.09J 3.09H and 3.10,There is a same problem with D2V.


When I play any films or audio bd which have DTS-HD master audio5.1 ,the D2V will give all four surround speakers sound(5.1-7.1) That sounds very strange.
And I am not doing any dsp mode like THX or Dolby PLIIx on it,( in the mode menu only select" None") and the D2V displays 5.1,
But it not happened with TURE HD 5.1 OR PCM5.1 ,Only two side surround speakers will works.

I changed to the 3.09 from the official link below, and it no problems.So ,maybe the V3.09 is the only right firmware for now?
--Tinza


----------



## cvinfig

^3.10 is only for 3D models. For non-3D models, 3.09 is the latest firmware.


----------



## tngiloy

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ If it's D2 to D2 you should be able to just re-upload the ARC solution from the older unit. I'm pretty sure the current ARC Windows app won't balk because the serial number of the new D2 doesn't match from when the solution was built.
> 
> If it's a D2 to D2v migration you really should redo the ARC Measurement as the hardware in the D2v is capable of better processing. Of course all this depends on how long you expect to use the loaner. If just a week or so, you might want to do just the bare minimum of futzing with it.
> --Bob


 
Bob,
Maybe you can clarify this for me. I thought that the only purpose of the unit, D2 or D2v, during an ARC run was to generate test tone sweeps for each of the speakers chosen. The ARC 3.02 on the computer used for the ARC run, stored, analyzed, and created the solution. If the solution is uploaded to a D2 or D2v wouldn't the solution only be affected by the difference in the unit, not the ARC solution ??
I understand how a different mic, with a different calibration, would make a difference, but does the D2v generate different test tones than a D2 ??


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The ARC solution is implemented by the hardware in the Anthem during normal listening. The ARC application knows which hardware will run the solution and builds the solution accordingly. So the solution is specific to a given model of the hardware.
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Tinza said:


> I tested the following three firmware: 3.09J 3.09H and 3.10,There is a same problem with D2V.
> 
> 
> When I play any films or audio bd which have DTS-HD master audio5.1 ,the D2V will give all four surround speakers sound(5.1-7.1) That sounds very strange.
> And I am not doing any dsp mode like THX or Dolby PLIIx on it,( in the mode menu only select" None") and the D2V displays 5.1,
> But it not happened with TURE HD 5.1 OR PCM5.1 ,Only two side surround speakers will works.
> 
> I changed to the 3.09 from the official link below, and it no problems.So ,maybe the V3.09 is the only right firmware for now?
> --Tinza


This is actually correct behavior according to DTS. The reason is that a "normal" 5.1 DTS mix is created assuming Side Surround speakers at 110-130 degrees -- i.e., somewhat behind the seating. Whereas the speaker placement for a 7.1 speaker layout assumes the Side Surround speakers are at 90 degrees -- i.e., even with the seating.

So if you play a 5.1 mix on a 7.1 speaker layout, DTS assumes you want the surround sound to come from IN BETWEEN the Side Surround and Rear Surround speakers. So it directs audio to all 4 Surrounds.

The earlier firmware attempted to avoid this, but DTS Certification mandated the approach implemented in this newer firmware.

This is all tied up with DTS's idea of how to implement "speaker presentations". Anthem could disable that (it's an option in the decoder implementation), but that screws up OTHER tracks -- in particular tracks that are mixed with "wide fronts" instead of "side surrounds". Trust me, this is way more bizarre than you really want to try to understand. The bottom line is the newer firmware is doing, "the right thing" for those DTS tracks.
--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ The ARC solution is implemented by the hardware in the Anthem during normal listening. The ARC application knows which hardware will run the solution and builds the solution accordingly. So the solution is specific to a given model of the hardware.
> --Bob



Interesting. Learn something new everyday.

Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## Tinza

Bob Pariseau said:


> This is actually correct behavior according to DTS. The reason is that a "normal" 5.1 DTS mix is created assuming Side Surround speakers at 110-130 degrees -- i.e., somewhat behind the seating. Whereas the speaker placement for a 7.1 speaker layout assumes the Side Surround speakers are at 90 degrees -- i.e., even with the seating.
> 
> So if you play a 5.1 mix on a 7.1 speaker layout, DTS assumes you want the surround sound to come from IN BETWEEN the Side Surround and Rear Surround speakers. So it directs audio to all 4 Surrounds.
> 
> The earlier firmware attempted to avoid this, but DTS Certification mandated the approach implemented in this newer firmware.
> 
> This is all tied up with DTS's idea of how to implement "speaker presentations". Anthem could disable that (it's an option in the decoder implementation), but that screws up OTHER tracks -- in particular tracks that are mixed with "wide fronts" instead of "side surrounds". Trust me, this is way more bizarre than you really want to try to understand. The bottom line is the newer firmware is doing, "the right thing" for those DTS tracks.
> --Bob




Thank you so much，this is really solved my big problem！
－－Tinza


----------



## matty1137

Can I use the tone controls and still keep ARC engaged, or is ARC automatically disabled? Under source setup for DVD1 I have Room EQ(ARC) turned on, but I'd also like to increase the HF EQ a few decibels. Can I do that (under the source setup menu) while still keeping ARC engaged?


----------



## AVfile

matty1137 said:


> Can I use the tone controls and still keep ARC engaged, or is ARC automatically disabled? Under source setup for DVD1 I have Room EQ(ARC) turned on, but I'd also like to increase the HF EQ a few decibels. Can I do that (under the source setup menu) while still keeping ARC engaged?


Looking at the user manual for Source Setup (p.35) I don't see any such restriction. Try it!

Normally it says something like "skip this menu if using ARC" (like 3h.Room Resonance Filter) but not this menu.


----------



## bigdaddy999

*Netflix - Use Blu-Ray to convert DD+ to DD5.1 with D2??*

Hi. This may be the wrong place for this question, but searching for this is painful. 

I have Netflix, which sadly doesn't stream with DD5.1, only DD+ or 2-channel. (REALLY STUPID decision by Netflix, IMHO). I have a Roku 3, which passes along the DD+ but the D2 cannot decode it of course. I hate 2-channel conversion to surround which is my only choice using the D2 box (which is NOT going anywhere).

SO - if I replace my blu-ray player with one that streams Netflix and has a DD+ decoder, would I be able to get DD 5.1 out of it on HDMI or Coax to the D2? Do they offer down-conversion or whatever the right term is to convert the audio?

How have others solved this issue with Netflix.

Thank you!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes, any player with that level of Netflix app should be settable to HDMI LPCM output. You will get LPCM 5.1 instead of the DD+ Bitstream. For example the OPPO BDP-103 can be used this way.
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Get in touch with Anthem tech support. They may already have history with this unit (they'll need the serial number).

There are several reasons why the video board might not be working, and might not take a firmware install. Of course the board itself could be fried. But it may also be that the daughter boards (upper HDMI in and out) are not seated properly. That *COULD* have happened during shipping.

There is also a rare situation where the attempt to upgrade firmware from a relatively old version can leave the video board unresponsive, and where Flash Eraser doesn't fix that. There's an easy fix for this but it requires temporary attachment of a cable to the video board. In the past, Anthem has offered to do that in the factory, or to send the cable rig so you can do it yourself. It is not tough, but you do have to take static electricity precautions when touching stuff inside the chassis so you don't accidentally fry a piece yourself.

I can't really offer you any advice on dealing with your seller.

It may take some back and forth with Tech Support to determine if this is something you can really fix yourself, or whether the unit will have to come back to the factory for service. Be advised that if the video board is fried, it is the single most expensive component in the chassis. So you and your seller will undoubtedly have more discussions....
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Get in touch with Anthem tech support. They may already have history with this unit (they'll need the serial number).
> 
> There are several reasons why the video board might not be working, and might not take a firmware install. Of course the board itself could be fried. But it may also be that the daughter boards (upper HDMI in and out) are not seated properly. That *COULD* have happened during shipping.
> 
> There is also a rare situation where the attempt to upgrade firmware from a relatively old version can leave the video board unresponsive, and where Flash Eraser doesn't fix that. There's an easy fix for this but it requires temporary attachment of a cable to the video board. In the past, Anthem has offered to do that in the factory, or to send the cable rig so you can do it yourself. It is not tough, but you do have to take static electricity precautions when touching stuff inside the chassis so you don't accidentally fry a piece yourself.
> 
> I can't really offer you any advice on dealing with your seller.
> 
> It may take some back and forth with Tech Support to determine if this is something you can really fix yourself, or whether the unit will have to come back to the factory for service. Be advised that if the video board is fried, it is the single most expensive component in the chassis. So you and your seller will undoubtedly have more discussions....
> --Bob


Bob

Who was this reply for ? There is no posting on this forum with those questions.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ That's what I get for not Quoting. 

Poster barhoram apparently deleted his question regarding failed video output and firmware install failure on a used D2v. 
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ That's what I get for not Quoting.
> 
> Poster barhoram apparently deleted his question regarding failed video output and firmware install failure on a used D2v.
> --Bob


^
Maybe he decided not to investigate the purchase


----------



## barasn

i have chance to buy AVM 50v 3D price is second hand 3000 usd its worth it or i need wait for new processor ?


----------



## barasn

i have chance to buy AVM 50v 3D price is second hand 3000 usd its worth it or i need wait for new processor ?


----------



## cvinfig

^ARC is amazing and, IMO, totally worth the price of admission. I'm guessing most posters in this thread would agree.


----------



## Thxtheater

barasn said:


> i have chance to buy AVM 50v 3D price is second hand 3000 usd its worth it or i need wait for new processor ?


The question I would ask you is what are you looking to get out of your pre-pro? The tech behind pre-pros changes rapidly so no matter what they always get trumped 2, 4, 6, 8 years down the road. Unless you have a UHD TV and UHD sourced and need UHD/ HDMI 2.0 switching etc. You'll get years of great use out of the anthem and get it at a great price.


----------



## barasn

got it today.. how can i check the current software?


----------



## stanger89

It displays the software version on the front display when you turn it on.


----------



## thestewman

barasn said:


> got it today.. how can i check the current software?


Or, push the select button on the remote to scroll thru the displays or push the status button on the unit.


----------



## acebreathe

My Anthem Statement D2 will not power on. When I attempt to power it up it just displays Anthem Statement D2 and nothing works. I've tried disconnecting the power cable and letting it sit for a few minutes and then plugging it back in no success. Any suggestions before I disconnect everything and look for an authorized repair shop?


----------



## acebreathe

Should add that there was a power failure lat night due to bad thunderstorms with severe lightning. Everything else in my setup powered up fine.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

acebreathe said:


> My Anthem Statement D2 will not power on. When I attempt to power it up it just displays Anthem Statement D2 and nothing works. I've tried disconnecting the power cable and letting it sit for a few minutes and then plugging it back in no success. Any suggestions before I disconnect everything and look for an authorized repair shop?


There is a known, but fortunately rare, problem which can cause the firmware of an original D2 (not the newer D2v) to be corrupted in a power failure. What happens is that some other part of your system (usually the power amp) dumps power back down the cables into the D2 and the D2 does not handle that gracefully.

The symptom is that the D2 appears to do all operations (including power up) in extreme slow motion, or some operations may not appear to work at all.

The CURE is to re-install the firmware. There is no permanent damage done -- just the nuisance factor of having to do the re-install and getting your settings back in place if up to date values are not saved in User or Installer Settings memory.

If the D2 refuses to accept a firmware install, then you need to get the Flash Eraser utility from Anthem Tech Support and run that first. This is a PC program which resets the programmable parts of the D2 so that they WILL accept new firmware.

Once the D2 has accepted the firmware install, restore your Settings and for good measure also re-Upload your latest ARC solution.
--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater

^ ^ ^ ^ 
Peanut gallery comment here... Bob that just proves how institutional memory is worth it's weight in gold. What a great nugget to file away.


----------



## acebreathe

Bob Pariseau said:


> There is a known, but fortunately rare, problem which can cause the firmware of an original D2 (not the newer D2v) to be corrupted in a power failure. What happens is that some other part of your system (usually the power amp) dumps power back down the cables into the D2 and the D2 does not handle that gracefully.
> 
> The symptom is that the D2 appears to do all operations (including power up) in extreme slow motion, or some operations may not appear to work at all.
> 
> The CURE is to re-install the firmware. There is no permanent damage done -- just the nuisance factor of having to do the re-install and getting your settings back in place if up to date values are not saved in User or Installer Settings memory.
> 
> If the D2 refuses to accept a firmware install, then you need to get the Flash Eraser utility from Anthem Tech Support and run that first. This is a PC program which resets the programmable parts of the D2 so that they WILL accept new firmware.
> 
> Once the D2 has accepted the firmware install, restore your Settings and for good measure also re-Upload your latest ARC solution.
> --Bob


Thanks Bob appreciate the help.


----------



## Nicoff

Any replacement for the D2/D2V processors in the works? 
About six months ago I asked this same question and at that time the only answers that I got were along the lines that the D2/D2v were still considered state-of-the-art even years after their release.
I am just wondering where things stand today. Is there a replacement planned or in the works? Thanks!!


----------



## Tim Winders

I'm sad to report I must sell my D2. My amplifier recently gave up the ghost and I'm not in a position to replace it, so can't use the D2. I am the original owner, it's an original D2 and I added the ARC1 as soon as it was available.

I've checked Audiogon and it seems $2200-$2500 is a fair price. Does that seem right?

Is anyone here interested before I post it elsewhere?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nicoff said:


> Any replacement for the D2/D2V processors in the works?
> About six months ago I asked this same question and at that time the only answers that I got were along the lines that the D2/D2v were still considered state-of-the-art even years after their release.
> I am just wondering where things stand today. Is there a replacement planned or in the works? Thanks!!


No official hints yet. Let me check my unofficial sources:

* shake shake shake *

ASK.AGAIN.LATER THE.FUTURE.IS.HAZY

--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

Bob Pariseau said:


> No official hints yet. Let me check my unofficial sources:
> 
> * shake shake shake *
> 
> ASK.AGAIN.LATER THE.FUTURE.IS.HAZY
> 
> --Bob


Thank you Bob! As hazy as the future looks, just a little bit of haziness gives me hope that I am not driving on a dead-end road. 
My hope is that by next CES, Anthem will have news for us.


----------



## AVfile

How about a firmware fix for the 3D models uninitialized video processor when using pass through mode?


----------



## thestewman

AVfile said:


> How about a firmware fix for the 3D models uninitialized video processor when using pass through mode?


Explain further what you mean by "uninitialized processor " somehow i missed learning about that problem.


Stew


----------



## AVfile

thestewman said:


> Explain further what you mean by "uninitialized processor " somehow i missed learning about that problem.
> 
> 
> Stew


I thought that would get some attention  When I explain it fully nobody seems to care. 

Say you power-on to your usual BD input with video output mode set to THROUGH (because you want to use 3D or an external VP). It works fine until you try to bring up the Anthem SETUP menu. The processor doesn't know what video output to use for the internal menu system since it was never initialized properly. It tries to handshake with the display and fails, resulting in either blank or corrupted display (until you select another video output configuration). 

There is another side effect of using THROUGH that I get: No audio unless the display is on! So if you just want to listen to an SACD or DVDA the TV must be turned on temporarily, or setup another input with video output NOT THROUGH for the handshake to complete. 

Anthem clearly did not cover all the bases in testing the 3D pass-through mod. Nick acknowledged that a fix might be possible in the mainboard software and to check with tech support, but that was a long time ago and they are not confirming any fix when I contact them.


----------



## Thxtheater

AVfile said:


> I thought that would get some attention  When I explain it fully nobody seems to care.
> 
> Say you power-on to your usual BD input with video output mode set to THROUGH (because you want to use 3D or an external VP). It works fine until you try to bring up the Anthem SETUP menu. The processor doesn't know what video output to use for the internal menu system since it was never initialized properly. It tries to handshake with the display and fails, resulting in either blank or corrupted display (until you select another video output configuration).
> 
> There is another side effect of using THROUGH that I get: No audio unless the display is on! So if you just want to listen to an SACD or DVDA the TV must be turned on temporarily, or setup another input with video output NOT THROUGH for the handshake to complete.
> 
> Anthem clearly did not cover all the bases in testing the 3D pass-through mod. Nick acknowledged that a fix might be possible in the mainboard software and to check with tech support, but that was a long time ago and they are not confirming any fix when I contact them.


This has been a bit of an annoyance and my work around has been to set a virtual input when I do audio only.


----------



## AVfile

Thxtheater said:


> This has been a bit of an annoyance and my work around has been to set a virtual input when I do audio only.


Good to know I'm not the only one.


----------



## thestewman

AVfile said:


> I thought that would get some attention  When I explain it fully nobody seems to care.
> 
> Say you power-on to your usual BD input with video output mode set to THROUGH (because you want to use 3D or an external VP). It works fine until you try to bring up the Anthem SETUP menu. The processor doesn't know what video output to use for the internal menu system since it was never initialized properly. It tries to handshake with the display and fails, resulting in either blank or corrupted display (until you select another video output configuration).


Anthem clearly stated that using Through would cause the user to NOT be able see the on screen menus or displays as they use S-video for the on screen display.



AVfile said:


> There is another side effect of using THROUGH that I get: No audio unless the display is on! So if you just want to listen to an SACD or DVDA the TV must be turned on temporarily, or setup another input with video output NOT THROUGH for the handshake to complete.


I listen to audio everyday and never have to turn on a video display.
Possibly one of your source settings is incorrect or needs changing.
What is the source of your audio ? HDMI ?
List all the audio source setup settings for us.



AVfile said:


> Anthem clearly did not cover all the bases in testing the 3D pass-through mod. Nick acknowledged that a fix might be possible in the mainboard software and to check with tech support, but that was a long time ago and they are not confirming any fix when I contact them.


Anthem clearly at times has avoided addressing some issues for some reason.
They have done it to me several times. They said they would have an answer and never responded after multiple telephone calls.
So I gave up asking.

Stew


----------



## marky301067

thestewman said:


> Anthem clearly at times has avoided addressing some issues for some reason.
> They have done it to me several times. They said they would have an answer and never responded after multiple telephone calls.
> So I gave up asking.
> 
> Stew



That doesn't sound like very good customer service to me


----------



## nucky

I've had the Anthem D2v 3D for a few months now and never had any problems with it. And it is the best pre amp that I have heard in my house so far.


----------



## barasn

i bought anthem 50 v 3d second hand but the owner lost cd so i cant upgrade software and cant use arc what i need to do ? need rs 232 driver and arc software how can i get it


----------



## nucky

barasn said:


> i bought anthem 50 v 3d second hand but the owner lost cd so i cant upgrade software and cant use arc what i need to do ? need rs 232 driver and arc software how can i get it


Go here and download it to your laptop or pc 
http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software.php


----------



## Bob Pariseau

barasn said:


> i bought anthem 50 v 3d second hand but the owner lost cd so i cant upgrade software and cant use arc what i need to do ? need rs 232 driver and arc software how can i get it


You don't need any special driver for the serial (RS232) connection. If you use a USB to serial adapter, such as the commonly used Keyspan USA-19HS that Anthem ships with the unit, you can get its driver from the Tripplite.com web site (Tripplite owns Keyspan). Download and install the driver for your particular flavor of Windows. If you need the actual USB to serial adapter itself you can purchase it from Amazon or even from Anthem. You will also need a "straight through" serial cable -- pins 1-9 connect directly to pins 1-9 -- available from places like Radio Shack, or from Anthem.

As mentioned above, the ARC install kit can be downloaded from the Anthem web site. As can the latest firmware installer.

So the one thing that's really missing from all this is that you don't have the ARC license and the ARC mic calibration file that came on that original install CD.

For those, email Anthem tech support with the Serial Number of your AVM 50v/3D and with the Serial Number of your ARC microphone, and they can email those two files to you. The two files they send you will have names made up of numbers -- those two Serial Numbers.

When you download the ARC install kit, UnZip it (if your Windows computer hasn't done that automatically) so that you have a folder. Look in that folder until you find the Setup.Exe program which is the installer itself for the ARC Windows application program. Copy the two files you got from Anthem Tech Support into the same place where you found that Setup.Exe program, then double click on that program to run the Installer. It will install the ARC Windows application on your Windows PC, and also copy those two files to where they need to be when you run the ARC setup.
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

barasn said:


> i bought anthem 50 v 3d second hand but the owner lost cd so i cant upgrade software and cant use arc what i need to do ? need rs 232 driver and arc software how can i get it


Hopefully he had the serial numbered ARC microphone ?


----------



## tranle

Question for old timers: when did Anthem start including the Keyspan USB-serial adapter with their D2V ?
Did they do that when started including ARC with it ?

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No, it came quite a bit after bundled ARC first shipped. After they negotiated a distribution deal with Tripplite.
--Bob


----------



## barasn

thank for help bob i got mic driver but now i have 0x03 code problem how can i solve it ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Reboot the Windows PC after any driver install or uninstall. Make sure the USB plugs are fully inserted. If using the Keyspan driver, check its USB plugs as well.

Check whether you have the latest (v3.10) firmware installed.

When you run an ARC Measurement pass, it will ask you to specify which speakers you want it to Measure. Be sure you don't tell it to Measure speakers you don't actually have connected or it will fail when it gets to that speaker.
--Bob


----------



## tranle

barasn said:


> thank for help bob i got mic driver but now i have 0x03 code problem how can i solve it ?


Not Bob, but I had a similar problem a few month ago with a Lenovo laptop and it seems that the Anthem mic driver does not like to be in a USB3 mode.
Check if you have an option in your bios be in a USB2 mode (compatibility or forced).

Without it my notebook would see the mic in the device manager app but ARC could not see it.


----------



## barasn

tranle said:


> Not Bob, but I had a similar problem a few month ago with a Lenovo laptop and it seems that the Anthem mic driver does not like to be in a USB3 mode.
> Check if you have an option in your bios be in a USB2 mode (compatibility or forced).
> 
> Without it my notebook would see the mic in the device manager app but ARC could not see it.


its ok now ty guys


----------



## AVfile

thestewman said:


> Anthem clearly stated that using Through would cause the user to NOT be able see the on screen menus or displays as they use S-video for the on screen display.


Not the OSD. The internal SETUP menu can still be brought up, but it has to switch from pass-through and engage the video processor temporarily. The problem is it doesn't remember video output settings across power cycles, so it doesn't know what resolution/format to output unless explicitly set via source setup. If you power-up to THROUGH mode this is undefined! It might default to 720p and some undetermined data format resulting in bad colors (in my case). The workaround is to select another source with video output explicitly configured before bringing up the menu.



> I listen to audio everyday and never have to turn on a video display.
> Possibly one of your source settings is incorrect or needs changing.
> What is the source of your audio ? HDMI ?
> List all the audio source setup settings for us.


I am just using HDMI from BD players. I tried it again and this time it worked (after a few brief dropouts) without turning on the display. It may be more complicated for me because I output to an external video processor (which was off this time) before the display. However it is more reliable when video output mode is not THROUGH. The workaround is to setup a virtual source for music only, with video output configured, as Thxtheater said.


----------



## barasn

Sometimes when i open avm 50v says power interrrupted than its work without problem what s that mean ?


----------



## stanger89

It means it lost power at some point. Only effect I know of is it can throw off the internal clock.


----------



## barasn

Power interrupted check current time said whats between time and power cant understand


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The Anthem has a rechargeable battery which maintains the clock even if the unit loses power.

I believe you will get that message if the rechargeable battery has run out of charge.

If it is happening on most every power up, then your Anthem may need service to replace that battery.
--Bob


----------



## wse

ARC vs Audyssey any experience?


----------



## Thxtheater

wse said:


> ARC vs Audyssey any experience?


I have limited experience with ARC and it's been a few years. My opinion is that Audyssey Pro is more on par with ARC comparing other versions of Audyssey I didn't like my options as much and I'd consider target audience to be non-installer and more casual enthusiast. That's just my opinion and I'm open to being wrong. Audyssey pro also gives you more graphs and I believe more filters and measurement positions. I haven't looked at it in some time as I said.


----------



## AVfile

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ The Anthem has a rechargeable battery which maintains the clock even if the unit loses power.
> 
> I believe you will get that message if the rechargeable battery has run out of charge.
> 
> If it is happening on most every power up, then your Anthem may need service to replace that battery.
> --Bob


Yikes, mine does that all the time but I thought it was normal (and annoying) 

Thanks!


----------



## tranle

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ The Anthem has a rechargeable battery which maintains the clock even if the unit loses power.
> 
> I believe you will get that message if the rechargeable battery has run out of charge.
> 
> If it is happening on most every power up, then your Anthem may need service to replace that battery.
> --Bob


Is it really a rechargeable battery or is it like standard lithium battery that you find these day on all the computer motherboard ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I'm not really sure. I think it is rechargeable as there are plenty of old units out there which are NOT losing the date/time every time they are powered off or lose wall power. Dating back to the original D2 units, that's quite a few years.
--Bob


----------



## stanger89

My 50V and I'm pretty sure my old 20 before it behaved the same as I recall. They would display that message every time they lose wall power, be it from an outage or from being unplugged. But they never showed it after just being off. Now since I don't really care about the time on them, I don't recall if they actually lost time or not, I want to say not. I always thought it was just a precautionary message saying, hey, power was lost, and since we can't be sure the time is still right, you should check it.


----------



## stevekappy

*Two problems with Statement D2*

I hope the forum can assist me. 

The theater is set up and complete. I have an OPPO BDP-105D as the source and a Statement D2 with v1.47 firmware. HDMI Audio output is PCM. I have all possible outputs on the OPPO going into the Anthem (HDMI, 5.1 Analog, XLR Stereo), including the second HDMI out on the OPPO as split audio to the Anthem. If there is any setting I have missed here, let me know. 

First problem: Every movie I play through the OPPO, after turning everything on, I do not get the center channel sound. I switch to analog 6 channel, then back to HDMI, and the center channel comes back. That, though, introduces the second problem. I get a loud "POP" through the speakers when I switch between analog and digital sources. It scared the crap out of me the first time because it was so loud. 

OPPO tells me it is because I set the Anthem up with auto digital, which I turned off, then the center channel seemed to work when I switch BDs and leave all the equipment on. I am wondering, though, if it is not the OPPO since I have been having other issues like freezing on DVDs and some of the apps (Berliner app, for example). 

Has anyone else suffered through this and could it be something simple I have overlooked in getting this to work?

Thanks in advance, 

-Steve


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Disconnect the HDMI cable from the HDMI 2 output of the OPPO. You only need the single cable from its HDMI 1 output to the D2. The HDMI 1 cable will carry best quality video AND audio to the D2 and without the extra complexity of dual cabling HDMI handshakes. Seriously, you lose nothing using just the one cable. Double check to be sure you don't confuse the HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 output sockets.

Set the OPPO to explicit 1080p output resolution (not Auto or Source Direct) and to HDMI Audio LPCM (not Auto).

Turning off Auto Digital in the D2 is correct advice.

The correct firmware for your D2 is Official firmware v1.33 (available from Anthem's Support Downloads page). The Beta V1.47f firmware you are using now was created to deal with certain HDMI specific problems in other hardware but is actually LESS reliable for the hardware (e.g., Display and Sources) most people have.

Issues with freezing of the OPPO should be posted in the 105D thread in the Blu-ray Players forum here, and folks can help you sort that out. Usually there are simple answers.

You should use a 6 foot HDMI cable (not shorter or longer) between the OPPO and the D2, even if the placement is closer. The cable provided by OPPO with the player is a good one. Make sure the HDMI plugs are fully inserted straight into the sockets with nothing (e.g., cable weight or kinks) tugging on the plug. HDMI plugs are just friction fit, and it only takes a small shift of plug in socket to screw things up.

Check that you have the latest firmware in the OPPO. In Setup > Device Setup > Firmware Information, the "Main" firmware number should end "0515".
--Bob


----------



## stevekappy

Bob, 

Thank you for your quick response. I apologize that I did not mention this earlier but I send the HDMI 1 output of the OPPO to my 4k projector which is why I am using the second HDMI port for audio. I will switch out the HDMI cable to the Anthem ASAP. Right now, I am using a redmere 3 foot HDMI cable from Monoprice but will go back to a 6 foot cable. I added cable supports on the back of the rack to support the HDMI cables but will confirm that they are not putting any strain on the cable or the HDMI "outlet." 

I thought about going back to the 1.33 firmware but thought the 1.47 was to deal with new HDMI hardware. I will switch back the firmware ASAP as well. 

Bob, thanks again for your advice and guidance. It is nothing short of amazing how much knowledge you have and are willing to share.

-Steve


----------



## tranle

stevekappy said:


> Bob,
> 
> Thank you for your quick response. I apologize that I did not mention this earlier but I send the HDMI 1 output of the OPPO to my 4k projector which is why I am using the second HDMI port for audio. I will switch out the HDMI cable to the Anthem ASAP. Right now, I am using a redmere 3 foot HDMI cable from Monoprice but will go back to a 6 foot cable. I added cable supports on the back of the rack to support the HDMI cables but will confirm that they are not putting any strain on the cable or the HDMI "outlet."
> 
> I thought about going back to the 1.33 firmware but thought the 1.47 was to deal with new HDMI hardware. I will switch back the firmware ASAP as well.
> 
> Bob, thanks again for your advice and guidance. It is nothing short of amazing how much knowledge you have and are willing to share.
> 
> -Steve


^
I did that once, sending oppo-hdmi-1 to my tv and oppo-hdmi-2 to anthem-d2 to tv.
I seems that when I did that the tv replied faster that it had only 2 speakers and the oppo refused to send the center channel to the anthem d2.

And it did not always do that, so I remove the 2nd hdmi connection. Even with the 'split audio' option it seem that there is some hdmi handshake going and the fastest win.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

OK, so you do *NOT* have both HDMI cables running from the OPPO to the D2? Good.

The Redmere 3 foot cable is OK. The Redmere technology (active circuit in the plug at one end) makes the cable act "like" a 6 foot, normal cable, regardless of its length. Just remember Redmere is directional, so you have to have the cable plugged in the correct way around. The long cable run to your projector might also need special attention. Redmere is good for that as well.

Now, since you have OPPO HDMI 1 going direct to the projector and OPPO HDMI 2 going direct to the D2, you *MAY* have a problem with leaving the HDMI output of the D2 also connected to the projector. The reason is, if the projector keeps its non-selected HDMI inputs "live", it will see the HDMI handshake coming into it from two directions -- direct from the OPPO and also from the back of the D2. You can eliminate the video output from the D2 by specifying that "NONE" will be sent to the Scaler in the Setup > Source Setup line you are using with the OPPO. Alternatively, there may be a setting you need to make in the projector to let it shut down the HDMI input (from the D2) which it is not actually using. The usual culprit is either HDMI ARC (Audio Return Channel -- not to be confused with Anthem Room Correction), or HDMI CEC -- remote control over the HDMI cable.
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

tranle said:


> ^
> I did that once, sending oppo-hdmi-1 to my tv and oppo-hdmi-2 to anthem-d2 to tv.
> I seems that when I did that the tv replied faster that it had only 2 speakers and the oppo refused to send the center channel to the anthem d2.
> 
> And it did not always do that, so I remove the 2nd hdmi connection. Even with the 'split audio' option it seem that there is some hdmi handshake going and the fastest win.


The problem is with Auto Dig enabled in the D2, the D2 is trying to decide whether to use the HDMI audio input or Analog audio input (depending on whether HDMI audio is present or not). And THAT complicates the handshake that the player sees.
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Hello
Been in the market for a new processor to replace my Lexicon mc8b. Ive been researching the AVM 50v 3d. I have some questions and I would appreciate some answers please.

1) It is my understanding that the avm50v3d does not have OSD for 3d content. Is this true and can you get OSD for just regular HDMI hookup?

2)Does it have anything similar to Logic 7?

3) Can you use phono with a phono Preamp?

4)Does anyone think there will be a upgrade to 4K?

5)Will the latest models being shipped have the latest firmware (ARCv 3.02 and v3.10)

6) Will there be a upgrade from 6 analog ins to 8 analog ins? If not possibly on a later version of the AVM50v 3d?

Thanks for any replies,

Rob


----------



## AuburnM5

Hey guys, I am in the need of a processor that can do basic HDMI switching and has balanced outputs. My source is an Oppo 103D. If I were to pick up the Statement D2 with ARC, I can set my 103 to decode the blu-rays ( in order to get DTS MA) and pass it through the Anthem via HDMI, correct? Only other source is a DirecTV genie.


----------



## stanger89

RobDec said:


> Hello
> Been in the market for a new processor to replace my Lexicon mc8b. Ive been researching the AVM 50v 3d. I have some questions and I would appreciate some answers please.
> 
> 1) It is my understanding that the avm50v3d does not have OSD for 3d content. Is this true and can you get OSD for just regular HDMI hookup?


Yes, you get an OSD unless you're using the "Through" function (video passthrough), which is required for 3D.



> 2)Does it have anything similar to Logic 7?


I'm not exactly sure what Logic 7 does, but there's DPL IIx, Anthem's proprietary solution, and DTS Neo.



> 4)Does anyone think there will be a upgrade to 4K?


My wild guess is that there will be a new model once the "true" 4K HDMI hardware (ie that capable of HDCP 2.2 and 18Gbps) becomes available. There maybe be an upgrade/trade-in program at that time. There was something like that for the 50V/D2V.



> 5)Will the latest models being shipped have the latest firmware (ARCv 3.02 and v3.10)


I would assume so.



> 6) Will there be a upgrade from 6 analog ins to 8 analog ins? If not possibly on a later version of the AVM50v 3d?


I'm sure there won't be an upgrade, that would be a major hardware (chassis) change, and I kind of doubt there will be more on a future version. Analog inputs are kind of dead with HDMI now.


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Hello
> Been in the market for a new processor to replace my Lexicon mc8b. Ive been researching the AVM 50v 3d. I have some questions and I would appreciate some answers please.
> 
> 1) It is my understanding that the avm50v3d does not have OSD for 3d content. Is this true and can you get OSD for just regular HDMI hookup?
> 
> *OSD works with anything other than Pass Through which is used for Blu Ray 3D playback
> *
> 
> 2)Does it have anything similar to Logic 7?
> 
> *Anthem uses PLIIx *
> 
> 3) Can you use phono with a phono Preamp?
> 
> *The Anthem phono input requires a phono preamp
> *
> 4)Does anyone think there will be a upgrade to 4K?
> 
> *Pure speculation. Probably not. They had an opportunity when they devised the 3D upgrade and stated they had little or no interest.*
> 
> 5)Will the latest models being shipped have the latest firmware (ARCv 3.02 and v3.10)
> 
> *Yes. but the software is easily uploaded so don't hesitate buying a older or used unit*
> 
> 6) Will there be a upgrade from 6 analog ins to 8 analog ins? If not possibly on a later version of the AVM50v 3d?
> 
> *Again pure speculation. Probably not. There are not many 8 channel analog sources or 6 channel analog sources either*
> 
> Thanks for any replies,
> 
> Rob


Personally, if your Lexicon works I would wait. The newer processors require less video processing and the newer HDMI, codecs, h265 and 4K will be a must.


----------



## Kris Deering

AuburnM5 said:


> Hey guys, I am in the need of a processor that can do basic HDMI switching and has balanced outputs. My source is an Oppo 103D. If I were to pick up the Statement D2 with ARC, I can set my 103 to decode the blu-rays ( in order to get DTS MA) and pass it through the Anthem via HDMI, correct? Only other source is a DirecTV genie.


If I was in your position I wouldn't use the HDMI switching of the Anthem at all. Feed the Genie into one of the HDMI inputs on the Oppo and use it for switching. Send HDMI 2 to the Anthem for audio and HDMI 1 out to your display directly. This allows you to take advantage of the video processing in the Oppo for satellite sources and you don't have to worry about any HDMI synch issues with different resolutions with the Anthem. Best of all worlds.


----------



## AuburnM5

Kris Deering said:


> If I was in your position I wouldn't use the HDMI switching of the Anthem at all. Feed the Genie into one of the HDMI inputs on the Oppo and use it for switching. Send HDMI 2 to the Anthem for audio and HDMI 1 out to your display directly. This allows you to take advantage of the video processing in the Oppo for satellite sources and you don't have to worry about any HDMI synch issues with different resolutions with the Anthem. Best of all worlds.


Excellent idea!


----------



## stanger89

thestewman said:


> Personally, if your Lexicon works I would wait. The newer processors require less video processing and the newer HDMI, codecs, h265 and 4K will be a must.


I just want to comment because I see this a lot. H.265 (or H.264, or VC1, or MPEG-2 or whatever) have no impact on a video processor, they are all decoded to raw video in the player. You will not see or need H.265 support in a AVR, SSP or Video Processor. H.265 and the like have nothing to do with HDMI or video processing.

The only way you _might_ see it, is if they start integrating streaming services (Netflix/etc) in which case the decoding would be done in the AVR/SSP/VP, but I find that unlikely except maybe in HTIBs.


----------



## thestewman

stanger89 said:


> I just want to comment because I see this a lot. H.265 (or H.264, or VC1, or MPEG-2 or whatever) have no impact on a video processor, they are all decoded to raw video in the player. You will not see or need H.265 support in a AVR, SSP or Video Processor. H.265 and the like have nothing to do with HDMI or video processing.
> 
> The only way you _might_ see it, is if they start integrating streaming services (Netflix/etc) in which case the decoding would be done in the AVR/SSP/VP, but I find that unlikely except maybe in HTIBs.


I don't think I meant to infer that the processor was necessary for h265 etc only its switching and the capability of passing the signal of which it currently cannot. I currently cannot use my Anthem for any HDMI 2.0. H265, 4K or other new video formats or codecs.


----------



## stanger89

But that's my point, H.265 will never make it to your SSP. H.264 never leaves the BD player or video streamer today. So you don't switch H.265, you don't pass H.265, and you won't ever see H.265 on a video processor spec sheet. I think people get confused because they see H.265 on TV spec sheets, but that's only for the TVs internal apps (streaming/Netflix/USB/etc). H.265 is a video compression codec, not a video format, and HDMI does not pass compressed video. Video is not like audio, there is no "bitstream" option that passes the compressed video over HDMI, so what codecs get used for 4K (or any) video (H.265, VP9, whatever) are irrelevant to the AVR/SSP/Video Processor.

But you're right about the rest though, Anthem's don't support HDMI 2.0 and can't pass 4K video. At least I assume no, but has anyone tried 4K24 via "through", that should work with HDMI 1.4.


----------



## RobDec

Thanks to all for the informative posts. I have thought it over and I think I will wait for a future processor with 4K. Ill just have to recover from the upgrade bug.LOL

Rob


----------



## stanger89

Yeah, at this point I'd at least wait til CEDIA in a couple weeks to see what's announced. If we're lucky maybe we'll hear from Lumagen and Anthem about HDMI 2.0 products.


----------



## wingnut4772

My African Grey parrot, Sterling, has taken to making the ARC frequency sweep sounds now as a call for me. Just thought that was kinda funny.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It's good to have a well-calibrated parrot. So long as it doesn't try to mate with your speakers.
--Bob


----------



## wingnut4772

Lol!


----------



## thestewman

wingnut4772 said:


> My African Grey parrot, Sterling, has taken to making the ARC frequency sweep sounds now as a call for me. Just thought that was kinda funny.





Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ It's good to have a well-calibrated parrot. So long as it doesn't try to mate with your speakers.
> --Bob


Most important to the sound and equalization of your system is the natural dampening material 
which may be deposited on your speakers.


----------



## Thxtheater

wingnut4772 said:


> My African Grey parrot, Sterling, has taken to making the ARC frequency sweep sounds now as a call for me. Just thought that was kinda funny.


I'd love to see a video of that! Share if you can.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ And maybe Sterling can post his graphs?

As an aside, sweep sounds are known in the industry as...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chirp


----------



## thestewman

Nick @ Anthem said:


> ^ And maybe Sterling can post his graphs?
> 
> As an aside, sweep sounds are known in the industry as...
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chirp


Good to see you are alive and well, And that you still occasionally monitor the forum,
Any information on products that are being upgraded or advanced ?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ Plan is to keep producing AVM/D the way it is. The 4K upgrade question comes up every now and then but $4K camcorders aside, playing native material means using a TV with streaming apps (Netflix/Amazon/DirecTV by 2016) or hard drive/streamer that works only when connected straight to certain TVs from same manufacturer. This negates foreseeable need for switching in the AV processor.


----------



## barhoram

I'm doing some theater room reconstruction and playing with sub positions. Which of the two ARC results look better? The left chart is the preferred position as it has the sub behind the screen wall. Position on the right is near-field with the sub just to the right of the seating area. Sound wise--I couldn't tell that much of a difference, but its hard to readjust and listen for differences.

Also--not sure why the sub levels are so different between the two...measurements were taken a few days apart. Will ARC readjust...left one seems to low 65db?


----------



## thestewman

barhoram said:


> I'm doing some theater room reconstruction and playing with sub positions. Which of the two ARC results look better? The left chart is the preferred position as it has the sub behind the screen wall. Position on the right is near-field with the sub just to the right of the seating area. Sound wise--I couldn't tell that much of a difference, but its hard to readjust and listen for differences.
> 
> Also--not sure why the sub levels are so different between the two...measurements were taken a few days apart. Will ARC readjust...left one seems to low 65db?


Left chart looks better but may be the result of the lower levels. Your sub may have performed better with the lower levels so maybe not such a good comparison.


----------



## drlopezmdfacp

Hooked up and unable to play 5.1 sacd via hdmi//D2 says it is getting 2.0 signal while oppo says it is playing 5.0? Help!


----------



## drlopezmdfacp

*Help with 5.0 problem*



bhrvatin said:


> Quote:Originally Posted by *bhrvatin*
> 
> I am curious however to see what the output would be at 480i - would the two units sync and just lower the bitrate? One other odd test is that I am going to set the Oppo to DSD over HDMI and see what the result is. This would require HDMI 1.2 - but I am curious to see how the 980H and D2 work that out.
> 
> 
> I am still unable to pass 3.0, 4.0 and 5.0 SACDs to the D2 via HDMI from the Oppo 980H in any configuration. 5.1 and 2.0 work as expected. I am running the v1.31 firmware on the Anthem and the "...-0903" on the Oppo. I'll call Anthem & Oppo tech support on Monday and see what they have to say.
> 
> Bart


Was this resolved by anyone? I am having same issue


----------



## Neuromancer

drlopezmdfacp said:


> Was this resolved by anyone? I am having same issue


This is an Anthem issue. Anthem, in their infinite wisdom, designed the D2 series to not process a multi-channel signal unless there is a Subwoofer signal available in the HDMI signal. OPPO does not phantom speaker channels. So if the soundtrack were 3.0, you would get LCR only. 

The lack of the subowofer channel on the 0.x SACDs is what is causing the Anthem to be stereo only. 

You will need to use multi-channel analog in this case.


----------



## drlopezmdfacp

Neuromancer said:


> This is an Anthem issue. Anthem, in their infinite wisdom, designed the D2 series to not process a multi-channel signal unless there is a Subwoofer signal available in the HDMI signal. OPPO does not phantom speaker channels. So if the soundtrack were 3.0, you would get LCR only.
> 
> The lack of the subowofer channel on the 0.x SACDs is what is causing the Anthem to be stereo only.
> 
> You will need to use multi-channel analog in this case.


Thanks! Contacted Anthem (PF took phone call). I hope they have a different answer. Otherwise, have to buy cables. Thank you again.


----------



## RobDec

Hello,
I have one simple question. From what I heard, (that no new processors will be coming out), Will the AVM50v 3d remain competitive?

Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

drlopezmdfacp said:


> Hooked up and unable to play 5.1 sacd via hdmi//D2 says it is getting 2.0 signal while oppo says it is playing 5.0? Help!


Which OPPO, and how is it cabled? What is your SACD Output setting in the OPPO?
--Bob


----------



## stanger89

RobDec said:


> Hello,
> I have one simple question. From what I heard, (that no new processors will be coming out), Will the AVM50v 3d remain competitive?
> 
> Rob


The only thing I can think of that it's missing, that can't be handled by an HDMI switch or (superior) video processor (ie HDMI 2.0), is Dolby Atmos, but it will probably take a while for that to gain traction. Maybe Anthem will have a new model next year for 4K BD.


----------



## RobDec

stanger89 said:


> The only thing I can think of that it's missing, that can't be handled by an HDMI switch or (superior) video processor (ie HDMI 2.0), is Dolby Atmos, but it will probably take a while for that to gain traction. Maybe Anthem will have a new model next year for 4K BD.


Thanks Stranger

Rob


----------



## barhoram

thestewman said:


> Left chart looks better but may be the result of the lower levels. Your sub may have performed better with the lower levels so maybe not such a good comparison.


Thanks. Any reason why the levels are low? Do i need to raise the sub(s) volume prior to calibration? I think I set them both at 73db with the internal tone prior to running ARC with the assumption that they would combine to 75db.


----------



## thestewman

barhoram said:


> Thanks. Any reason why the levels are low? Do i need to raise the sub(s) volume prior to calibration? I think I set them both at 73db with the internal tone prior to running ARC with the assumption that they would combine to 75db.


If your using multiple subs that is what is supposed to be the correct setup procedure.
I don't have multiple subs so i can not confirm. The manual states what you just stated.
It probably would not be a bad idea to raise the levels and rerun ARC
You may have some error within your sound meter.

And, You have tested your subs for correct phasing ?


----------



## thestewman

stanger89 said:


> The only thing I can think of that it's missing, that can't be handled by an HDMI switch or (superior) video processor (ie HDMI 2.0), is Dolby Atmos, but it will probably take a while for that to gain traction. Maybe Anthem will have a new model next year for 4K BD.


Did you see Nick's response above ?


----------



## stanger89

thestewman said:


> Did you see Nick's response above ?


Yes I did. I took that to mean near term ("forseeable"), at least, near enough term that they're willing to comment. ie, that there aren't any updates planned to be announced at CEDIA. Nobody is willing to comment on products shipping a year from now, so I personally would not read that to mean they're not doing anything.

Also read carefully, Nick said their plan is to keep producing the AVM/D the way they are, it doesn't address a new model.

IMO, it makes sense this year, as Nick points out, there's really nothing on the immediate horizon (next 12 months) that the AVM/D can't handle. There is one exception, Dolby Atmos. Those disks are only just going to start shipping this fall, so there's really no reason to "rush" out a new model (and it would have to be a new model with at least 4 more output channels), but I think by this time next year (CEDIA 2015), Anthem will be looking at some very anxious owners/customers. By that time Atmos will be more common, there will be a bit of a library built up to be able to take advantage of it, 4K Blu-ray (which will include Atmos as well) is scheduled for the same time period, and 18Gbps HDMI 2.0 chips with HDCP 2.2 will be available in quantity. Holiday 2015, or early 2016 would be a good time to have a new product out to take advantage of all that, and I don't think any of this conflicts with what Nick said, especially considering anything that supports Atmos will have to be a new platform with more channels.


----------



## RobDec

Hi
I have some questions before I get the AVM50v 3d

1) will this setup work with Velodyne dd15. Red, white and composite cables from sub to AVM and then use composite out to display. Will this give me the graph for the Velodyne 15?

2)For 3d. I looked at manual online. Does this unit come with ARC, or is it a separate purchase? Do I need to install ARC from computer or is it ready to work right from the box? 

3)I noticed with 3d I have to use HDMI1 out on Anthem. Can I share HDMI1 out with Directv box HDMI input (1-4) and Oppo 103d Input (1-4)?

4) Is there any problem using a phono preamp with Anthem? I have phono and a red light comes on. Im assuming it is clipping.

5)Is IR emitter on back the same thing as IR in (From my lex mc8). Also I have Krell amps daisy chained to Lex (so the amps turn on when the Anthem turns on) connected to the block in back. Can I use one of the ports on the 12 volt trigger ( in back of AVM50)instead?

6)Can I use a optical cable from TV to anthem and get sound. I realize I wont get OSD.

Thanks for your time.

Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RobDec said:


> Hi
> I have some questions before I get the AVM50v 3d
> 
> 1) will this setup work with Velodyne dd15. Red, white and composite cables from sub to AVM and then use composite out to display. Will this give me the graph for the Velodyne 15?
> 
> 2)For 3d. I looked at manual online. Does this unit come with ARC, or is it a separate purchase? Do I need to install ARC from computer or is it ready to work right from the box?
> 
> 3)I noticed with 3d I have to use HDMI1 out on Anthem. Can I share HDMI1 out with Directv box HDMI input (1-4) and Oppo 103d Input (1-4)?
> 
> 4) Is there any problem using a phono preamp with Anthem? I have phono and a red light comes on. Im assuming it is clipping.
> 
> 5)Is IR emitter on back the same thing as IR in (From my lex mc8). Also I have Krell amps daisy chained to Lex (so the amps turn on when the Anthem turns on) connected to the block in back. Can I use one of the ports on the 12 volt trigger ( in back of AVM50)instead?
> 
> 6)Can I use a optical cable from TV to anthem and get sound. I realize I wont get OSD.
> 
> Thanks for your time.
> 
> Rob


1) The Anthem does not "process" Composite video inputs -- meaning you can only see them by using its corresponding Composite video output, not the HDMI you normally use to your display. The fix is to go to Radio Shack and get an inexpensive Composite to S-video converter which you put on the end of the Video cable coming from the Velodyne. Plug the other end into an S-Video input on the Anthem and then you can see the results using the normal HDMI output to your display. You only need to run the Red/White RCA Audio pair from the Velodyne to the Anthem if you want to use its internal test tone sweeps. You can certainly play those for kicks and grins, but for REAL setup you want to set the Velodyne to the preset (#6 as I recall) that BYPASSES its Internal EQ -- and also disable its Crossover processing (go to the upper left crossover entry and press Reset -- if you did it right, those all change to N/A). The reason is, you will be using ARC in the Anthem to do all your EQ, so you don't want the Velodyne to be sticking its nose in as well.

2) The AVM 50v/3D comes with ARC. ARC Measurement and Calculation is done using a program that runs on your Windows PC -- install disc included in the ARC kit that comes with the AVM. The resulting ARC solution data gets Uploaded into the Anthem by that program, and then you don't need the Windows PC attached for normal use of the Anthem after that.

3) Yes, you can use the main (HDMI 1) output for ALL your sources. In the Anthem you will define Setup > Source Setup info for each source device. For 3D viewing the Setup > Source Setup must specify "THROUGH" as its Video Configuration -- meaning the 3D video gets passed through the Anthem unprocessed. You select which Source you want to watch with the remote.

4) You can use a phono pre-amp with the Anthem. There is a ground screw on the back panel for making a ground connection between that and the Anthem.

5) The IR stuff is kinda-sorta standardized, so the answer is probably yes. The Trigger outputs of the Anthem can be used for turning on your amps.

6) Yes, you can use Optical from the TV to get sound through the Anthem while your TV is playing video from, say, its internal channel tuner. See the TV manual for how to disable its internal speakers.
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Hi
> I have some questions before I get the AVM50v 3d
> 
> 1) will this setup work with Velodyne dd15. Red, white and composite cables from sub to AVM and then use composite out to display. Will this give me the graph for the Velodyne 15?
> 
> 2)For 3d. I looked at manual online. Does this unit come with ARC, or is it a separate purchase? Do I need to install ARC from computer or is it ready to work right from the box?
> 
> 3)I noticed with 3d I have to use HDMI1 out on Anthem. Can I share HDMI1 out with Directv box HDMI input (1-4) and Oppo 103d Input (1-4)?
> 
> 4) Is there any problem using a phono preamp with Anthem? I have phono and a red light comes on. Im assuming it is clipping.
> 
> 5)Is IR emitter on back the same thing as IR in (From my lex mc8). Also I have Krell amps daisy chained to Lex (so the amps turn on when the Anthem turns on) connected to the block in back. Can I use one of the ports on the 12 volt trigger ( in back of AVM50)instead?
> 
> 6)Can I use a optical cable from TV to anthem and get sound. I realize I wont get OSD.
> 
> Thanks for your time.
> 
> Rob


#1 I do not have the answer for this. Maybe Bob P will jump in as I think he had this sub

#2 ARC has nothing to do with 3D. ARC and everything you need to run it except a laptop comes with the unit.
It does require installation on to a laptop which is not hard or complicated. 

#3 You may be confused asking this question. The Anthem HDMI #1 OUT goes to your DISPLAY HDMI input.
Your HDMI OUT from the Direc TV and OPPO will go to an Anthem Input. You will set that up in the setup and can be 
any Anthem input from 1 to 8. 

#4 Your phono output should be connected to the Aux input for 2 channel Bal input. Then go to setup /source and 
set it to analog direct or analog Dig. Then you need to go into the Anthem setup/Analog input level and reduce the input 
level for that analog source.

#5 One of the IR ports in the rear is the same as the front. Yes, you can also use one of the 12v triggers. 
Make sure you do not overload the single 12v port with your daisy chained connection.

#6 Yes. But if your using a sat box or cable box that is not needed the audio is carried on the HDMI. 
Unless you are viewing tv channels tuned directly by the tv or streaming from a built in tv application. 

Hope that helps
Sorry Bob didn't know you were responding the same time as I was typing


----------



## RobDec

Thanks Bob and Thestewman

Im not sure if I got these right.

For the sub I use red and white rca cables from Velodyne to Lex, also the yellow composite cable from Velodyne to lex. Then I use something on the lex called MAIN out to the display (main out is for composite cables) and get the graph. Im just looking for the graph screen. and I thought using a composite in and out would get me that graph.

As for ARC are detailed instructions given? Im not very computer literate and instructions would be helpful.

Thanks again

Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RobDec said:


> Thanks Bob and Thestewman
> 
> Im not sure if I got these right.
> 
> For the sub I use red and white rca cables from Velodyne to Lex, also the yellow composite cable from Velodyne to lex. Then I use something on the lex called MAIN out to the display (main out is for composite cables) and get the graph. Im just looking for the graph screen. and I thought using a composite in and out would get me that graph.
> 
> As for ARC are detailed instructions given? Im not very computer literate and instructions would be helpful.
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> Rob


The Anthem does not "process" Composite video (1 RCA cable) input. So you can not get it to output Composite video input as either Component video (3 RCA cables) or HDMI video. Like I said above, the workaround is easy. Use a Composite to S-Video adapter, and plug that video from the Velodyne into an S-Video input of the Anthem instead. If all you want is the Velodyne user interface screen that's all you need -- no need to also hook up its Red/White audio cables. Those are only needed if you want to use the built in test tones of the Velodyne.

For ARC, check the AVM 50v Manual and give it a try. If you run into problems, just ask here.
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Thanks Bob. Ill give it a try.

Rob


----------



## RobDec

Bob one last question. If the Velodyne has a s-video port then cant I eliminate to adaptor and use straight s-video? Forgive my ignorance.

Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes. That must be a new addition. 
--Bob


----------



## tranle

RobDec said:


> Bob one last question. If the Velodyne has a s-video port then cant I eliminate to adaptor and use straight s-video? Forgive my ignorance.
> 
> Rob


The video out of the Velodyne is really used on for setup and calibration, when I had my velodyne I just run the s-video cable directly to the tv so I can see the setup and set everything on the velodyne to flat and disconnect it. 

You need to run 1 rca cable or xlr cable from the anthem to the velodyne for audio sub-woofer out. And just use Anthem's ARC to calibrate everything.


----------



## RobDec

tranle said:


> The video out of the Velodyne is really used on for setup and calibration, when I had my velodyne I just run the s-video cable directly to the tv so I can see the setup and set everything on the velodyne to flat and disconnect it.
> 
> You need to run 1 rca cable or xlr cable from the anthem to the velodyne for audio sub-woofer out. And just use Anthem's ARC to calibrate everything.


Thanks Tranli
That's what Im gonna do. It would be overkill to do both.

Rob


----------



## RobDec

thestewman said:


> #1 I do not have the answer for this. Maybe Bob P will jump in as I think he had this sub
> 
> #2 ARC has nothing to do with 3D. ARC and everything you need to run it except a laptop comes with the unit.
> It does require installation on to a laptop which is not hard or complicated.
> 
> #3 You may be confused asking this question. The Anthem HDMI #1 OUT goes to your DISPLAY HDMI input.
> Your HDMI OUT from the Direc TV and OPPO will go to an Anthem Input. You will set that up in the setup and can be
> any Anthem input from 1 to 8.
> 
> #4 Your phono output should be connected to the Aux input for 2 channel Bal input. Then go to setup /source and
> set it to analog direct or analog Dig. Then you need to go into the Anthem setup/Analog input level and reduce the input
> level for that analog source.
> 
> [URL=http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=5]#5 [/URL] One of the IR ports in the rear is the same as the front. Yes, you can also use one of the 12v triggers.
> Make sure you do not overload the single 12v port with your daisy chained connection.
> 
> #6 Yes. But if your using a sat box or cable box that is not needed the audio is carried on the HDMI.
> Unless you are viewing tv channels tuned directly by the tv or streaming from a built in tv application.
> 
> Hope that helps
> Sorry Bob didn't know you were responding the same time as I was typing


Thanks Thestewman specifically your answer on #5 
I have 3 Krell 250 KAV amps. Do you think I should use all three trigger ports or would just 1 suffice.

Sorry about the late post.

Rob


----------



## mopgcw

*ARC Demands Surrounds?*

Sorry if this has been answered before, but I promise i searched and could not locate a solution.

Running ARC 3.02 for my D2v and it will not allow me to check the Rear Speakers only -- it requires Surrounds to get Rears. I have no surrounds only a 5.0 with Rears. so when it runs, it expects the surrounds doesnt find them, and then aborts. 

If i choose only fronts/center it works fine.

is there a workaround this? Am i missing something, besides two more speakers?

thanks
George


----------



## Bob Pariseau

mopgcw said:


> Sorry if this has been answered before, but I promise i searched and could not locate a solution.
> 
> Running ARC 3.02 for my D2v and it will not allow me to check the Rear Speakers only -- it requires Surrounds to get Rears. I have no surrounds only a 5.0 with Rears. so when it runs, it expects the surrounds doesnt find them, and then aborts.
> 
> If i choose only fronts/center it works fine.
> 
> is there a workaround this? Am i missing something, besides two more speakers?
> 
> thanks
> George


In a system with only 2 Surround speakers, those two Surrounds are your *SIDE* Surrounds, regardless of how far back you have them placed physically.

Wire them to the Side Surround outputs of the Anthem, and do ARC by specifying you have Side Surrounds but no Rear Surrounds.

Ideally your 2 Surrounds should be positioned at about 110 degrees around to either side, measuring the angle from straight to the screen as 0 degrees -- so somewhat behind your seating but not directly behind it. However, regardless of where you have actually placed them, the system will treat them as Side Surrounds for wiring and for ARC.
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Thanks Thestewman specifically your answer on #5
> I have 3 Krell 250 KAV amps. Do you think I should use all three trigger ports or would just 1 suffice.
> 
> Sorry about the late post.
> 
> Rob




Each trigger port on every amp should have the amperage draw marked on the amp. Each trigger connection on the rear of the Anthem is also marked. If I remember correctly one has a higher capacity than the other two.
Total the daisy chained amps and that total has to be less than the port on the Anthem. If not then divide the amp connections and distribute it across multiple trigger connections.
Stew
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID


----------



## RobDec

thestewman said:


> Each trigger port on every amp should have the amperage draw marked on the amp. Each trigger connection on the rear of the Anthem is also marked. If I remember correctly one has a higher capacity than the other two.
> Total the daisy chained amps and that total has to be less than the port on the Anthem. If not then divide the amp connections and distribute it across multiple trigger connections.
> Stew
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID


Thanks Thestewman 

I looked at the back of each amp and it says 12 VDC remote power for each amp. The triggers on back of Anthem AVM50v are marked 12 volts. That seems to be cutting it close. Im thinking of just not connecting the cords to the Anthem and turning it on and off directly from the amps.

Again thank you and I appreciate any further input.

Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ No, 12 volts is expected at both ends. It's not the Voltage, it's the Amperage (current draw) the amp wants on that line from the Anthem. 
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

thestewman said:


> Each trigger port on every amp should have the amperage draw marked on the amp. Each trigger connection on the rear of the Anthem is also marked. If I remember correctly one has a higher capacity than the other two.
> Total the daisy chained amps and that total has to be less than the port on the Anthem. If not then divide the amp connections and distribute it across multiple trigger connections.
> Stew
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID





RobDec said:


> Thanks Thestewman
> 
> I looked at the back of each amp and it says 12 VDC remote power for each amp. The triggers on back of Anthem AVM50v are marked 12 volts. That seems to be cutting it close. Im thinking of just not connecting the cords to the Anthem and turning it on and off directly from the amps.
> 
> Again thank you and I appreciate any further input.
> 
> Rob





Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ No, 12 volts is expected at both ends. It's not the Voltage, it's the Amperage (current draw) the amp wants on that line from the Anthem.
> --Bob


Heed what Bob has stated. Don't confuse the different electrical terms. All triggers are 12v as far as I know and it is the amperage or current draw we need to worry about.
On an Anthem processor Trigger 1 is 50 mA. Trigger 2 is 50 mA and trigger 3 is 200 mA.
That's Milliamps (mA or a millionth of an amp).
So look on the rear of each of your amps at the trigger connection and it should be marked in mA and at 12v.
Add the number of mA and if the total for all 3 amps does not exceed 200 mA connect the daisy chain to #3 on the Anthem.
If over 200 mA then remove as many amps as needed to get within the limits.


----------



## RobDec

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ No, 12 volts is expected at both ends. It's not the Voltage, it's the Amperage (current draw) the amp wants on that line from the Anthem.
> --Bob


Ok 
So is there a easy way to figure out if I can use the triggers?

Thanks for your time

Rob


----------



## RobDec

thestewman said:


> Heed what Bob has stated. Don't confuse the different electrical terms. All triggers are 12v as far as I know and it is the amperage or current draw we need to worry about.
> On an Anthem processor Trigger 1 is 50 mA. Trigger 2 is 50 mA and trigger 3 is 200 mA.
> That's Milliamps (mA or a millionth of an amp).
> So look on the rear of each of your amps at the trigger connection and it should be marked in mA and at 12v.
> Add the number of mA and if the total for all 3 amps does not exceed 200 mA connect the daisy chain to #3 on the Anthem.
> If over 200 mA then remove as many amps as needed to get within the limits.


Thanks once again thestewman
Looks like we were typing at the same time.
I looked on the back and each amps says 30 ma max, that's a total of 90, so I should be good for trigger #3 .
This is all new to me, Im sorry
And thank you Bob for you time

Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Thanks once again thestewman
> Looks like we were typing at the same time.
> I looked on the back and each amps says 30 ma max, that's a total of 90, so I should be good for trigger #3 .
> This is all new to me, Im sorry
> And thank you Bob for you time
> 
> Rob


Good to go ! Attach all 3 amps to Trigger 3 on the Anthem . I believe it says 200mA max.
Next. The triggers will not work until you have gone into the Anthem setup and turned on the triggers. Check the manual so you get an understanding of the chart that appears in the setup. And don't forget to save your settings before you exit the setup area.



Stew


----------



## chileboy

Well, due to moving in a few weeks to a new (well, new to us) home, I am finally taking the plunge and I've ordered a Samsung PN64F8500 display (replacing my beloved, but monolithic, 65" Toshiba RPTV).

My processor is the AVM50 w/ factory ARC. Am I correct that it won't pass 3D at all (and can't be made to do so), so I need to cable my Oppo BDP-103 directly to the display? Also, since I would then need to connect the second Oppo HDMI to the Anthem for sound, could I still connect HDMI out on the Anthem to a separate HDMI input on the plasma for 2D?

Thanks,

- Mark


----------



## drhankz

chileboy said:


> Well, due to moving in a few weeks to a new (well, new to us) home, I am finally taking the plunge and I've ordered a Samsung PN64F8500 display (replacing my beloved, but monolithic, 65" Toshiba RPTV).
> 
> My processor is the AVM50 w/ factory ARC. Am I correct that it won't pass 3D at all (and can't be made to do so), so I need to cable my Oppo BDP-103 directly to the display? Also, since I would then need to connect the second Oppo HDMI to the Anthem for sound, could I still connect HDMI out on the Anthem to a separate HDMI input on the plasma for 2D?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> - Mark


*YES MARK*

You outlined the CORRECT cabling choices for 3D with your Anthem


----------



## tranle

RobDec said:


> Ok
> So is there a easy way to figure out if I can use the triggers?
> 
> Thanks for your time
> 
> Rob


If you are going to power up all your 3 amps all the time, I would daisy chain them together like this:
Anthem Trigger -> Amp1 -> Amp2 -> Amp3
I do it this way so that the amp power up sequentially and there is a less a power surge demand on power up.

Anthem has 3 different triggers so that you can setup what to power for different zones or you can power up different set of amps if you are doing 2 channel or multi-channels on different inputs.


----------



## chileboy

drhankz said:


> *YES MARK*
> 
> You outlined the CORRECT cabling choices for 3D with your Anthem


Thanks doctor!


----------



## RobDec

tranle said:


> If you are going to power up all your 3 amps all the time, I would daisy chain them together like this:
> Anthem Trigger -> Amp1 -> Amp2 -> Amp3
> I do it this way so that the amp power up sequentially and there is a less a power surge demand on power up.
> 
> Anthem has 3 different triggers so that you can setup what to power for different zones or you can power up different set of amps if you are doing 2 channel or multi-channels on different inputs.


Thanks Tranli

That's how my Lex was hooked up. So it should be a easy switch.

Im probably getting my unit tomorrow, but I have one more question (and hopefully last). Does OSD have transparent menus for volume controls. I know it goes into the blue, but cant remember if there is a transparent menu for volume. Im thinking it obviously should. But I have to ask.

Once again thank you

Rob


----------



## tranle

RobDec said:


> Thanks Tranli
> 
> That's how my Lex was hooked up. So it should be a easy switch.
> 
> Im probably getting my unit tomorrow, but I have one more question (and hopefully last). Does OSD have transparent menus for volume controls. I know it goes into the blue, but cant remember if there is a transparent menu for volume. Im thinking it obviously should. But I have to ask.
> 
> Once again thank you
> 
> Rob


On mine the OSD for volume shows up as an overlay of white letter, same a subtittle on DVD. I don't think that you can change the color nor the position nor the font.

If you go into the main setup menu it can be blue or grey it is the same as low res vga and it is not transparent.
There is a second setup menu per input (when press and hold the number '7' for 3sec, this on full resolution and is also not transparent.


----------



## RobDec

tranle said:


> On mine the OSD for volume shows up as an overlay of white letter, same a subtittle on DVD. I don't think that you can change the color nor the position nor the font.
> 
> If you go into the main setup menu it can be blue or grey it is the same as low res vga and it is not transparent.
> There is a second setup menu per input (when press and hold the number '7' for 3sec, this on full resolution and is also not transparent.


Thanks for the quick response!

Im not sure I understand. Are you able to watch a movie, show etc and have the volume controls in white but everything else is transparent.

May I add this forum does rock!

Rob


----------



## tranle

RobDec said:


> Thanks for the quick response!
> 
> Im not sure I understand. Are you able to watch a movie, show etc and have the volume controls in white but everything else is transparent.
> 
> May I add this forum does rock!
> 
> Rob


When you change volume or press 'select' to view the status it will display the volume level or input statuses for a few seconds and goes away.
The text appearance is the same as closed caption text would appears in a movie. The status display timeout is adjustable from 1s to 15s.


----------



## RobDec

That's good news. Time to watch the game and have a beer.

Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Thanks for the quick response!
> 
> Im not sure I understand. Are you able to watch a movie, show etc and have the volume controls in white but everything else is transparent.
> 
> May I add this forum does rock!
> 
> Rob


This might be a matter of terminology. Anthem calls all their setup screens the OSD. You can change the color of the OSD. It is not transparent.. Not even translucent. When you call up any of the OSD screens it replaces the video portion of the program you are watching.
The Volume as well as all the onscreen function displays are in White and not transparent. But they are not obtrusive at all.
The only adjustment available is in the the Setup for display setting and you can adjust how long the function or volume display should remain visible.
The volume is displayed in db rather than a visual bar graph.


----------



## stanger89

thestewman said:


> The Volume as well as all the onscreen function displays are in White and not transparent.


To be clear, the text is opaque, but the background is translucent, just like the volume on any TV.


----------



## RobDec

Thanks stranger89 and thestewsman

If anyone can help me on another question? Didn't get the unit yet but,

The Sales Order's description says Anthem AVM-50v Home Theater Processor V3 3D. Is that the same as Anthem AVM-50v 3D.

If anyone can help that would be a load off my back.

Thanks Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Thanks stranger89 and thestewsman
> 
> If anyone can help me on another question? Didn't get the unit yet but,
> 
> The Sales Order's description says Anthem AVM-50v Home Theater Processor V3 3D. Is that the same as Anthem AVM-50v 3D.
> 
> If anyone can help that would be a load off my back.
> 
> Thanks Rob


^
Probably one and the same. Just the way they wrote the sales order


----------



## Milwaukeesk

Question for the ARC experts. I'm pulling my hair out trying to understand what's going on and if it's a problem. 

Every time I run ARC (3.02) I get a reference level targeted at 70. I will preface that with that I have been diligent about setting the test level at 75db with a SPL meter and prior to doing that zeroing out all other trims, and making sure LF is at 0db.....

So I guess i'm asking:

1. Does it really matter if my reference level is targeted at 70 db... am I missing out on something or do I just need to turn up my volume a little louder?
2. Could this issue be a bug?
3. Should I just bump up my test level +5 db, regardless of what my SPL meter is telling me another rerun and be done with it?

I'd really like to get this correct so any direction on what approach I should take would be appreciated.


----------



## thestewman

Milwaukeesk said:


> Question for the ARC experts. I'm pulling my hair out trying to understand what's going on and if it's a problem.
> 
> Every time I run ARC (3.02) I get a reference level targeted at 70. I will preface that with that I have been diligent about setting the test level at 75db with a SPL meter and prior to doing that zeroing out all other trims, and making sure LF is at 0db.....
> 
> So I guess i'm asking:
> 
> 1. Does it really matter if my reference level is targeted at 70 db... am I missing out on something or do I just need to turn up my volume a little louder?
> 2. Could this issue be a bug?
> 3. Should I just bump up my test level +5 db, regardless of what my SPL meter is telling me another rerun and be done with it?
> 
> I'd really like to get this correct so any direction on what approach I should take would be appreciated.


Nothing to worry about.
Anthem has stated the 75db is a relative reference level and ARC will internally make any adjustment neccessary.
But if you want you could rerun ARC and raise your levels 5db. It is possible your SPL meter is not 100% accurate.


----------



## Milwaukeesk

thestewman said:


> Nothing to worry about.
> Anthem has stated the 75db is a relative reference level and ARC will internally make any adjustment neccessary.
> But if you want you could rerun ARC and raise your levels 5db. It is possible your SPL meter is not 100% accurate.


Good deal. Thanks for the info. If it's not going to make any audible difference, I won't go through the trouble of rerunning ARC. I'm plenty happy with the Curves I have just didnt want to settle if I was going to miss out on something.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sounds like you are fine as is. If you want to post your ARC charts folks can see if there's anything that would be worth "tweaking". But raising the basic volume level of the solution shown on the charts a few dB is *NOT* reason enough to tweak.
--Bob


----------



## Milwaukeesk

Bob Pariseau said:


> Sounds like you are fine as is. If you want to post your ARC charts folks can see if there's anything that would be worth "tweaking". But raising the basic volume level of the solution shown on the charts a few dB is *NOT* reason enough to tweak.
> --Bob


Here are my charts... i'm open to feedback as i'm no expert. You will notice that I adjusted some (Music targets are what ARC suggested). I moved the Sub to Flat, bumped up the EQ to 10k and played with the crossovers a little.

The reason I adjusted crossovers was because my front 3 speakers match and my rear 4 match. not sure if I needed to make that change as it did little to the curves. Thought it may help?


----------



## thestewman

Milwaukeesk said:


> Here are my charts... i'm open to feedback as i'm no expert. You will notice that I adjusted some (Music targets are what ARC suggested). I moved the Sub to Flat, bumped up the EQ to 10k and played with the crossovers a little.
> 
> The reason I adjusted crossovers was because my front 3 speakers match and my rear 4 match. not sure if I needed to make that change as it did little to the curves. Thought it may help?


Looks great. It was not bad to start with and ARC has added the crowning touch.
Would you mind telling the forum what speakers you are using.


----------



## Milwaukeesk

thestewman said:


> Looks great. It was not bad to start with and ARC has added the crowning touch.
> Would you mind telling the forum what speakers you are using.


Dumb luck I guess...

I have: 
M&K s150's across the front
M&K s85's for the four rears
2 subs - An older Sunfire signature, and a SVS NSD-pb12 (both up front in the room)


----------



## Nicoff

Deleted


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Nicoff

Question on using the Anthem D2 processor with more than one subwoofer:
I have a single subwoofer with my 5.1 set-up. However, I am now considering adding a second subwoofer to run a 5.2 configuration.
I would like your help with these questions:
1. How does ARC treat two subs? Independently or as just one sub?
2. The two subs can be used as a master/slave configuration. Is this the preferred method if using two subs with ARC? Or should each sub be independent of the other?
3. How do you physically connect your subs to the Anthem? "Y" connectors? (BTW I intend to use XLR cables)
4. The subs have room correction software. I would assume that I should first run the subs' room correction and THEN do ARC. Is my assumption correct?
5. Most of my use will be music (70%). I currently have a Velodyne (18") that is fairly old. I am looking at upgrading to newer Velodynes or JL Audio. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Thxtheater

Nicoff said:


> Question on using the Anthem D2 processor with more than one subwoofer:
> I have a single subwoofer with my 5.1 set-up. However, I am now considering adding a second subwoofer to run a 5.2 configuration.
> I would like your help with these questions:
> 1. How does ARC treat two subs? Independently or as just one sub?
> 2. The two subs can be used as a master/slave configuration. Is this the preferred method if using two subs with ARC? Or should each sub be independent of the other?
> 3. How do you physically connect your subs to the Anthem? "Y" connectors? (BTW I intend to use XLR cables)
> 4. The subs have room correction software. I would assume that I should first run the subs' room correction and THEN do ARC. Is my assumption correct?
> 5. Most of my use will be music (70%). I currently have a Velodyne (18") that is fairly old. I am looking at upgrading to newer Velodynes or JL Audio. Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


ARC treats both subs as a single sub. Just calibrate the SPL of each sub independently before you run ARC. Make sure you've set the phase, etc. This is spelled out in the user manual. 

With the Anthem you can use either a Y cable or use the independent XLR sub1 and sub2 outputs. There isn't any independent adjustment via room calibration that happens with each output so it's your preference. Given you're running balanced cables, use the Sub1 and Sub2 outputs with individual balanced cables. 

I suggest you run ARC first and then look at the results. ARC is amazing with what it does. If you're not satisfied with the ARC results, then go back and run the built-in room correction software of the subs if they have it. 

JL Audio's and REL's subwoofers are my first-choice. You do pay a premium for those brands. I've been reading some consistently impressive reviews lately about the SVS line of Ultra subs (http://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-reviews/sb13-ultra-subwoofer and http://www.pooraudiophile.com/2014/09/svs-sb13-ultra-subwoofer-review.html). They offer a 45 day in-home trial with no shipping cost either way. I haven't had a chance to listen to any of the new Velodynes since they went consumer-direct.


----------



## thestewman

Nicoff said:


> Question on using the Anthem D2 processor with more than one subwoofer:
> I have a single subwoofer with my 5.1 set-up. However, I am now considering adding a second subwoofer to run a 5.2 configuration.
> I would like your help with these questions:
> 1. How does ARC treat two subs? Independently or as just one sub?
> 2. The two subs can be used as a master/slave configuration. Is this the preferred method if using two subs with ARC? Or should each sub be independent of the other?
> 3. How do you physically connect your subs to the Anthem? "Y" connectors? (BTW I intend to use XLR cables)
> 4. The subs have room correction software. I would assume that I should first run the subs' room correction and THEN do ARC. Is my assumption correct?
> 5. Most of my use will be music (70%). I currently have a Velodyne (18") that is fairly old. I am looking at upgrading to newer Velodynes or JL Audio. Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks in advance!





Thxtheater said:


> ARC treats both subs as a single sub. Just calibrate the SPL of each sub independently before you run ARC. Make sure you've set the phase, etc. This is spelled out in the user manual.
> 
> With the Anthem you can use either a Y cable or use the independent XLR sub1 and sub2 outputs. There isn't any independent adjustment via room calibration that happens with each output so it's your preference. Given you're running balanced cables, use the Sub1 and Sub2 outputs with individual balanced cables.
> 
> I suggest you run ARC first and then look at the results. ARC is amazing with what it does. If you're not satisfied with the ARC results, then go back and run the built-in room correction software of the subs if they have it.
> 
> JL Audio's and REL's subwoofers are my first-choice. You do pay a premium for those brands. I've been reading some consistently impressive reviews lately about the SVS line of Ultra subs (http://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-reviews/sb13-ultra-subwoofer and http://www.pooraudiophile.com/2014/09/svs-sb13-ultra-subwoofer-review.html). They offer a 45 day in-home trial with no shipping cost either way. I haven't had a chance to listen to any of the new Velodynes since they went consumer-direct.


Make sure in setup your have chosen 1 Sub not 2 Subs
2 Subs is used without ARC


----------



## thestewman

Nicoff said:


> Question on using the Anthem D2 processor with more than one subwoofer:
> I have a single subwoofer with my 5.1 set-up. However, I am now considering adding a second subwoofer to run a 5.2 configuration.
> I would like your help with these questions:
> 1. How does ARC treat two subs? Independently or as just one sub?
> 2. The two subs can be used as a master/slave configuration. Is this the preferred method if using two subs with ARC? Or should each sub be independent of the other?
> 3. How do you physically connect your subs to the Anthem? "Y" connectors? (BTW I intend to use XLR cables)
> 4. The subs have room correction software. I would assume that I should first run the subs' room correction and THEN do ARC. Is my assumption correct?
> 5. Most of my use will be music (70%). I currently have a Velodyne (18") that is fairly old. I am looking at upgrading to newer Velodynes or JL Audio. Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks in advance!





Thxtheater said:


> ARC treats both subs as a single sub. Just calibrate the SPL of each sub independently before you run ARC. Make sure you've set the phase, etc. This is spelled out in the user manual.
> 
> With the Anthem you can use either a Y cable or use the independent XLR sub1 and sub2 outputs. There isn't any independent adjustment via room calibration that happens with each output so it's your preference. Given you're running balanced cables, use the Sub1 and Sub2 outputs with individual balanced cables.
> 
> I suggest you run ARC first and then look at the results. ARC is amazing with what it does. If you're not satisfied with the ARC results, then go back and run the built-in room correction software of the subs if they have it.
> 
> JL Audio's and REL's subwoofers are my first-choice. You do pay a premium for those brands. I've been reading some consistently impressive reviews lately about the SVS line of Ultra subs (http://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-reviews/sb13-ultra-subwoofer and http://www.pooraudiophile.com/2014/09/svs-sb13-ultra-subwoofer-review.html). They offer a 45 day in-home trial with no shipping cost either way. I haven't had a chance to listen to any of the new Velodynes since they went consumer-direct.


One easily made mistake that was not mentioned.
Make sure in setup your have chosen 1 Sub not 2 Subs
2 Subs is used without ARC


----------



## Nicoff

thestewman said:


> One easily made mistake that was not mentioned.
> Make sure in setup your have chosen 1 Sub not 2 Subs
> 2 Subs is used without ARC


Thxtheater, thestewman,
Thank you both very much! Great suggestions. I will look into other suggested subs as well.
Thanks again!!


----------



## thestewman

Nicoff said:


> Thxtheater, thestewman,
> Thank you both very much! Great suggestions. I will look into other suggested subs as well.
> Thanks again!!


^
Don't overlook the fabulous Paradigm Sub 1 and Sub 2 and others


----------



## Thxtheater

thestewman said:


> ^
> Don't overlook the fabulous Paradigm Sub 1 and Sub 2 and others


That's a +1 on the Paradigm subs too. Their higher end subs are pricey but have solid specs.


----------



## barhoram

D2 ARC question....I've been doing some adjustments with a new sub. To speed thing up, I set ARC settings just to run tones for L, R and Sub. I found a position that seems good, and uploaded the settings to the unit. I tested and was very impressed with the sound. Bass slammed me in the chest when it should have. I did notice that instead of 5.1 + Dolby PLIIx on 5.1 input, I was just getting 5.1 with no PLIIx. I could not get it to switch PLIIx on....did the upload make it think I do not have a 7.1 setup?

I went ahead and ran a full calibration for all 7 speakers and sub in 5 positions. Uploaded the settings to the unit. Played same demo material, and PLIIx was back. However, bass wasn't quit as strong as it was before. 

Is there some reason that bass output would be different between the two ARC uploads?


----------



## mopgcw

Bob Pariseau said:


> In a system with only 2 Surround speakers, those two Surrounds are your *SIDE* Surrounds, regardless of how far back you have them placed physically.
> 
> Wire them to the Side Surround outputs of the Anthem, and do ARC by specifying you have Side Surrounds but no Rear Surrounds.
> 
> Ideally your 2 Surrounds should be positioned at about 110 degrees around to either side, measuring the angle from straight to the screen as 0 degrees -- so somewhat behind your seating but not directly behind it. However, regardless of where you have actually placed them, the system will treat them as Side Surrounds for wiring and for ARC.
> --Bob


That worked perfectly. Thanks Bob!


----------



## RobDec

Hi 
Got my AVM50v.
Hooked it up but I can get a picture. Iv been working with it for over 5 hours. I would appreciate any info as to how to get a picture. Been going over the manual and cant find nothing.

Thank you Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Hi
> Got my AVM50v.
> Hooked it up but I can get a picture. Iv been working with it for over 5 hours. I would appreciate any info as to how to get a picture. Been going over the manual and cant find nothing.
> 
> Thank you Rob


Rob

We will try to help
You have to give some more details.
Describe all your wiring from sources and connections.
And then describe in detail how you setup the sources in the Anthem.


----------



## RobDec

Hi thestewman
I got up at 7;00am and started tweeking and I figured it out. I love this processor! My only gripe is on a strict 5.1 channel mode the sound comes out of the surrounds and not the rears. But I can live with that.
Thanks for offering to help, you and others were a big help, and I do appreciate that help!

Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

barhoram said:


> D2 ARC question....I've been doing some adjustments with a new sub. To speed thing up, I set ARC settings just to run tones for L, R and Sub. I found a position that seems good, and uploaded the settings to the unit. I tested and was very impressed with the sound. Bass slammed me in the chest when it should have. I did notice that instead of 5.1 + Dolby PLIIx on 5.1 input, I was just getting 5.1 with no PLIIx. I could not get it to switch PLIIx on....did the upload make it think I do not have a 7.1 setup?
> 
> I went ahead and ran a full calibration for all 7 speakers and sub in 5 positions. Uploaded the settings to the unit. Played same demo material, and PLIIx was back. However, bass wasn't quit as strong as it was before.
> 
> Is there some reason that bass output would be different between the two ARC uploads?


Yes, ARC Uploads the "speaker configuration" along with the solution. So if you built the solution as 2.1 speakers, then ARC will set 2.1 speakers as part of the Upload.

Now, when you play 5.1 content into a 2.1 speaker system several things happen. First you get a down-mix, which alters the sound. Second you can't enable surround sound processing like PLIIx because there's no work for it to do. I.e., it can't expand 5.1 to more speakers because you don't even have 5.1 configured.

When you play down-mixed audio, the volume is different. This may cause you to raise Main Volume. When you switch to your true, 7.1 configuration that may mean you are playing at a different volume which could account for the bass.

There are a couple things you can do to verify the 7.1 ARC solution is doing the right thing. First, play the LPCM test tracks from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, and verify matched speaker and Sub levels with an SPL meter. That will show you haven't somehow screwed up the levels after uploading the ARC solution. If the levels are wrong, before you do anything else, reset the "temporary" level adjustments that can be set using the buttons on the remote. These are remembered per input format and so you can easily confuse yourself into leaving some of them enabled. The fastest way to reset these is:

1) Save User Settings
2) Restore Factory Defaults
3) Load Saved User Settings

Since the "temporary" settings are not saved, this resets all of them. Also check that you have the Tone controls bypassed (button on the remote) and that you haven't added any EQ filtering to your Setup > Source Setup definition.

NOTE: Sub may measure a few dB hot in SPL due to the Room Gain built into the ARC solution. This is normal.

Once you find that levels are matched, then play the Crossover test from that AIX disc. That will send a bass sweep to the front speakers (only). At the high frequency end the sweep tone will all come out of the fronts. At the low frequency end it will all come out from the Sub due to Crossover processing set up by ARC. In between you get a mix. If things are working right, that sweep tone should be constant volume from end to end -- except for the lowest bass which is more felt than heard.

If the levels are matched and Crossover test sounds good, then you can feel confident ARC is doing the right thing, and the difference you heard earlier was likely due to the down-mix processing and how you reacted to that (e.g., volume adjustment).
--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Bob,

Thanks. I will try your suggestions. One concern is that I may have a faulty ARC microphone as it reports background noise very often when the room is dead slient.... I see several versions out there...ARC, ARC1, ARC1M. Which will work with a D2? Will any NOT work?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

There is only one version of ARC that works with the D2. It is v3.0.2 downloadable from Anthem's support page, the same version that works with all their pre-pros.

Background noise may mean bass vibrations that you can't hear but the mic can "feel". For example, from passing traffic, or some motor nearby like a fridge or HVAC. It also may mean that you've got the Test Level set low so that the sweep tone levels are not loud enough for the mic to hear clearly.
--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Thanks Bob--I mean more the hardware...I see a kit with USB Mic and DB9 connector labled as Anthem ARC. I also see I "ARC1" and "ARC1M" kit.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Anthem has had several revisions of the ARC mic over the years. Get in touch with Anthem tech support and tell them the serial number of your Anthem and your current ARC mic and they can explain what's available if you want to try replacing it.
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Hi
Hooked up avm50v and everything is fine, except I get audio and video dropouts when playing 3d. My other equipment is Oppo 103d bluray player and Sharp 80' display (844).

Thank you very much in advance.
Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Hi
> Hooked up avm50v and everything is fine, except I get audio and video dropouts when playing 3d. My other equipment is Oppo 103d bluray player and Sharp 80' display (844).
> 
> Thank you very much in advance.
> Rob


You are using the OPPO 103D to play the 3D bluray disk ?
Do you have the OPPO connected to one of the HDMI inputs #1 to 4 and the video output configured in setup as Through ?


----------



## RobDec

thestewman said:


> You are using the OPPO 103D to play the 3D bluray disk ?
> Do you have the OPPO connected to one of the HDMI inputs [URL=http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1]#1 [/URL] to 4 and the video output configured in setup as Through ?


 Hi
Yes I have it hooked up to #1 and Im using Through also.

Rob


----------



## RobDec

Hi 
I think I figured it out. I changed the Anthem AVM50v HDMI Input to #3 , and the Display HDMI Input to #2 . Interesting thing I came across. When I power the TV (a Sharp 80" 844) on the display reads Statement DV2. Just thought that to be interesting.

Rob


----------



## RobDec

Sorry I meant Statement D2v and not DV2 in my above post. Im curious if this is in reference to the Anthem D2v.
Rob


----------



## Nicoff

This is why you should run ARC from time to time...

The first time I ran ARC (long ago, when I first got the D2), I discovered that I had a problem with a one of my speakers (a blown tweeter). You would think that your ears would let you know, but mine did not. 

Anyway, I just bought a new subwoofer and ran ARC to integrate it to my system. Looking at the graph I realized that one of my speakers had a blown tweeter!

*What I have learned is that it does not hurt to run ARC from time to time to make sure that everything is working the way it should.*

And while I mention ARC, I plan to run different configurations for movies and music. For movies, I will run a 5.2 set up (two subwoofers). For music, I will run a 4.1 configuration (no center channel and only one sub). For music, I was going to tell ARC that I had NO center channel plus I was going to turn off the second sub before ARC does the music test signals (I did not see in ARC how to tell it how many subs you have). Thoughts/suggestions?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Nicoff said:


> For music, I was going to tell ARC that I had NO center channel plus I was going to turn off the second sub before ARC does the music test signals


Seems ok.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

RobDec said:


> I changed the Anthem AVM50v ... When I power the TV (a Sharp 80" 844) on the display reads Statement DV2.


 Same HDMI hardware and driver as D2v.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

RobDec said:


> Hi
> Hooked up avm50v and everything is fine, except I get audio and video dropouts when playing 3d


 I've seen this cured by changing HDMI cable - tech support has details.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

barhoram said:


> One concern is that I may have a faulty ARC microphone as it reports background noise very often when the room is dead slient


Additionally to Bob's suggestions is your new subwoofer's input level set high enough? Also make sure the mic cable isn't moving / rubbing / being stepped on during sweeps.


----------



## barhoram

Bob Pariseau said:


> Yes, ARC Uploads the "speaker configuration" along with the solution. So if you built the solution as 2.1 speakers, then ARC will set 2.1 speakers as part of the Upload.
> 
> Now, when you play 5.1 content into a 2.1 speaker system several things happen. First you get a down-mix, which alters the sound. Second you can't enable surround sound processing like PLIIx because there's no work for it to do. I.e., it can't expand 5.1 to more speakers because you don't even have 5.1 configured.
> 
> When you play down-mixed audio, the volume is different. This may cause you to raise Main Volume. When you switch to your true, 7.1 configuration that may mean you are playing at a different volume which could account for the bass.
> 
> There are a couple things you can do to verify the 7.1 ARC solution is doing the right thing. First, play the LPCM test tracks from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, and verify matched speaker and Sub levels with an SPL meter. That will show you haven't somehow screwed up the levels after uploading the ARC solution. If the levels are wrong, before you do anything else, reset the "temporary" level adjustments that can be set using the buttons on the remote. These are remembered per input format and so you can easily confuse yourself into leaving some of them enabled. The fastest way to reset these is:
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 2) Restore Factory Defaults
> 3) Load Saved User Settings
> 
> Since the "temporary" settings are not saved, this resets all of them. Also check that you have the Tone controls bypassed (button on the remote) and that you haven't added any EQ filtering to your Setup > Source Setup definition.
> 
> NOTE: Sub may measure a few dB hot in SPL due to the Room Gain built into the ARC solution. This is normal.
> 
> Once you find that levels are matched, then play the Crossover test from that AIX disc. That will send a bass sweep to the front speakers (only). At the high frequency end the sweep tone will all come out of the fronts. At the low frequency end it will all come out from the Sub due to Crossover processing set up by ARC. In between you get a mix. If things are working right, that sweep tone should be constant volume from end to end -- except for the lowest bass which is more felt than heard.
> 
> If the levels are matched and Crossover test sounds good, then you can feel confident ARC is doing the right thing, and the difference you heard earlier was likely due to the down-mix processing and how you reacted to that (e.g., volume adjustment).
> --Bob



Bob,

I tried this suggesting with the AIX disk. A couple of things I noticed. On level match, LCR and SUB all read about 80db on my SPL meter. I assumed they would be 75, but they are all matched...so think that is OK. L and R surround (side speakers in my 7.1 setup) were both 2db lower than the rest. Is this normal? Should I bump them up 2db?? 

It doesn't look like I can apply PLIIx to 5.1 or 7.1 LPCM from this disk..is that correct?


----------



## RobDec

Gonna run ARC in a couple of days. So is there anything Ill be losing by running ARC?Just got my AVM50v on Friday. basically this is all new to me.

Thank you
Rob


----------



## AVfile

^^ No, settings not relevant when using ARC are kept but ignored when Room EQ is enabled for each source. 

Note: you should be saving user settings periodically anyway.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

barhoram said:


> Bob,
> 
> I tried this suggesting with the AIX disk. A couple of things I noticed. On level match, LCR and SUB all read about 80db on my SPL meter. I assumed they would be 75, but they are all matched...so think that is OK. L and R surround (side speakers in my 7.1 setup) were both 2db lower than the rest. Is this normal? Should I bump them up 2db??
> 
> It doesn't look like I can apply PLIIx to 5.1 or 7.1 LPCM from this disk..is that correct?


This is fine. Leave the volume trims as ARC set them. ARC is more accurate than the SPL meter for a variety of reasons.

The absolute volume from a test track of course depends on the main Volume knob setting on the Anthem and the level at which the test track was recorded. So don't sweat that. What's more important is that the levels match across the speakers. And in your case, you are "close enough".

(Technically, the calibrated level of the Anthem corresponds to what you should get from a Reference level track when main Volume is set at -10dB.)
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RobDec said:


> Gonna run ARC in a couple of days. So is there anything Ill be losing by running ARC?Just got my AVM50v on Friday. basically this is all new to me.
> 
> Thank you
> Rob


ARC has no downside. It's all good.
--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Nicoff said:


> And while I mention ARC, I plan to run different configurations for movies and music. For movies, I will run a 5.2 set up (two subwoofers). For music, I will run a 4.1 configuration (no center channel and only one sub). For music, I was going to tell ARC that I had NO center channel plus I was going to turn off the second sub before ARC does the music test signals (_*I did not see in ARC how to tell it how many subs you have*_). Thoughts/suggestions?



ARC treats your subs as one. Even though there are 'SUB 1' and SUB 2' outputs, ARC does not have multiple sub setup. The outputs are the same. It just splits the signal, as if you had a splitter connected to 'SUB 1'.
You can certainly do separate ARC runs for 5.2 and 4.1, but you will need to manually turn off the sub not included in the 4.1 setup yourself each time you play music. It would make more sense to do a 5.2 and 4.2 ARC run to me, but I don't know your system. Why just one sub?


Also, since ARC treats all your subs as one, you will need to setup your subs (phase, level matching, etc.) prior to running ARC. This can be done a couple different ways. The first and easiest way is to buy a sub equalizer/room correction unit such as the SVS AS-EQ1 (no longer sold, but can be found for sale used, if your lucky) or one of the models from DSPeaker. I use the DualCore 2.0 with great success, but its not cheap.
Or you can use the Quick Measure feature in ARC to set your subs up. This is more time consuming and probably not as good as the outboard correction units, but certainly cheaper. *Either way, you should set up your subs prior to running ARC.*


Tom


----------



## barhoram

Looking for feedback on my latest ARC results on subwoofer placement behind my AT screen. I've tried just about every location and orientation behind the screen wall. This is the best I've gotten. Prior results with my previous sub behind the AT screen weren't good, but this is a new sub. Looks pretty good to me, but I'm wondering if a flatter response is possible. Is this worth trying other locations around the room, or is this pretty good for a sub (and I should stop messing with it and enjoy)


----------



## thestewman

barhoram said:


> Looking for feedback on my latest ARC results on subwoofer placement behind my AT screen. I've tried just about every location and orientation behind the screen wall. This is the best I've gotten. Prior results with my previous sub behind the AT screen weren't good, but this is a new sub. Looks pretty good to me, but I'm wondering if a flatter response is possible. Is this worth trying other locations around the room, or is this pretty good for a sub (and I should stop messing with it and enjoy)


The Calculated ARC result that ARC would apply is missing from the graph and it is important to be able to see how ARC handles the correction..
You only have the Targeted Response and the Dotted Line and Measured response before EQing

It might be best to use Quick Measure to find the best location


----------



## whitecamaross

hi there, 
i am picking up an anthem d2 tomorrow and i was informed that it does not come with the ARC. Question, is it just a matter of purchasing the actual kit or does the unit itself need to have something done internally in order to make it compatible with it? 
i will be connecting it to the matching P5 amplifier and also a krell chorus 5x200 power amplifier. My goal is to see HOW GOOD the anthem p5 is when compared to the new krell chorus. 
thanks in advance!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ No hardware changes are needed in the D2.

You need to purchase the ARC kit (mic, mic stand, cables, and Windows PC software install disc) and check that you have firmware v1.33 installed in the D2. That's it. If you need to update the D2 firmware, that's a free download from Anthem's support page.
--Bob


----------



## whitecamaross

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ No hardware changes are needed in the D2.
> 
> You need to purchase the ARC kit (mic, mic stand, cables, and Windows PC software install disc) and check that you have firmware v1.33 installed in the D2. That's it. If you need to update the D2 firmware, that's a free download from Anthem's support page.
> --Bob


thank you Bob. i am actually excited to see how much better this unit is when compared to the integra 80.3 or the yamaha cxa5000 processor. thoughts?
lastly, i have "heard" that these units have alot of hdmi issues such as handshake problems, display pixels dimming, and popping noises through the speakers when locking signals? what should i be aware of and what do you recommend i test tomorrow on the unit before i take it home?
lastly, you mentioned to buy a kit and i see several kits on ebay and some of them say that they are specifically for the mrx receivers? are there different models of these kits? i dont want to buy the wrong kit..


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Properly testing a used unit is tough because there are so many combinations of things to try. Checking that each input and output functions is time consuming enough. 

HDMI handshake issues are usually due to marginal cabling, so I wouldn't worry about that too much. But the sockets have to function. 

There should be no audible audio issues on any output. And don't accept any video noise. 

There ARE different ARC kits. And it is best to get the kit from Anthem to be sure you are getting the right thing.
--Bob


----------



## whitecamaross

Bob Pariseau said:


> Properly testing a used unit is tough because there are so many combinations of things to try. Checking that each input and output functions is time consuming enough.
> 
> HDMI handshake issues are usually due to marginal cabling, so I wouldn't worry about that too much. But the sockets have to function.
> 
> There should be no audible audio issues on any output. And don't accept any video noise.
> 
> There ARE different ARC kits. And it is best to get the kit from Anthem to be sure you are getting the right thing.
> --Bob


Video noise? what espefically are you referring to? like mosquito noise or very drastic picture noise? 
also, have you compared this unit to other processors and if so which ones and how did it sound?


----------



## whitecamaross

Lastly, how do you guys feed this unit the newest formats such as dts master audio and dolby true hd? via hdmi or via rca inputs through its 7.1 input? i plan on buying the oppo so i am wondering how to get around this...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ By video noise I meant obvious video data transfer errors. You mentioned some stuff above. None of that is "normal". The D2 itself will not introduce stuff like "mosquito noise". That's a source device or content issue. If possible, bring a disc player you trust with you to test the unit. If you see video errors, just like if you hear audio errors, don't buy the unit. Simple as that.

Set the OPPO to HDMI Audio LPCM and it will decode DTS-HD MA and Dolby TrueHD into high bandwidth, multi-channel LPCM which the D2 can accept. The D2 is limited to 5.1 channel input, so if you play a 7.1 track the OPPO will down-mix the Rears into the Sides.
--Bob


----------



## rockychan

May I know the Lfe channel (D2v 3D) can + db, mine is only can - db. 
front, center, surround, rear and even subwoofer channel can + & - db, is it normal? Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The LFE channel can only be attenuated, not boosted.

You can boost the Subwoofer as a whole (LFE plus any bass steered to the Sub due to Crossover processing). But not JUST the LFE.
--Bob


----------



## whitecamaross

Has anyone here ever compared this processor to krell units or marantz 8801 or Integra 80.3?


----------



## whitecamaross

has anyone ever used Sonos with their d2 in order to stream music? i hate having to turn on my laptop to stream music. i like the ability to use my phone app to operate everything..


----------



## agrsiv95

Anyone looking for the 3D upgrade for the second gen D2V? PM me as I have an upgrade kit that is not compatible with my older one #140914 . which is also for sale.

Jeremy


----------



## Bruceko

whitecamaross said:


> has anyone ever used Sonos with their d2 in order to stream music? i hate having to turn on my laptop to stream music. i like the ability to use my phone app to operate everything..


Yes. Questions?


----------



## rockychan

Bob Pariseau said:


> The LFE channel can only be attenuated, not boosted.
> 
> You can boost the Subwoofer as a whole (LFE plus any bass steered to the Sub due to Crossover processing). But not JUST the LFE.
> --Bob


Thanks! 
Is there any different between the manual subwoofer channel (LFE plus any bass steered to the Sub due to Crossover processing) and the remote control subwoofer channel? (only bass steered to the Sub due to Crossover processing) Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I'm not sure what you mean by the "manual" vs. the "remote control".

The volume trims (Level Calibration) should be left as ARC sets them when you do your ARC Upload to the Anthem. The level adjustments on the remote control are "temporary" adjustments -- remembered separately per type of audio input format. Use those if you feel you have to make adjustments due to, for example, a poorly designed audio mix in some movie. The Sub adjustment on the remote affects both steered base and LFE going to the Sub. The LFE adjustment only affects LFE going to the Sub.
--Bob


----------



## whitecamaross

Can anyone tell me why I can't hear anything when I have Netflix playing through my ps3 but if I play a bluray i can hear the sound without any problems? I set the ps3 to pcm. ..


----------



## solly46

Does anyone have a remote that they can spare for a D2V non 3D unit? Please PM me. 
Thanks


----------



## whitecamaross

Anyone have issues with nextflix through the ps3? I set it to pcm but when I play Netflix and the movie is in 5.1,I get no sound but if change the setting on the actual movie on Netflix to stereo then I get sound. .?


----------



## whitecamaross

i have read that the d2 supports dolby digital plus which is what my whole netflix questions is all about. i can't seem to hear any sound when i select dolby digital plus on neflix?


----------



## RobDec

Hi
Ive come across a problem. When playing a movie (Return of the King) and using Dig HDMI. It takes a couple of minutes to get the 6.1 sound and kick-in. Any answers would be appreciated! 

Rob


----------



## Thxtheater

RobDec said:


> Hi
> Ive come across a problem. When playing a movie (Return of the King) and using Dig HDMI. It takes a couple of minutes to get the 6.1 sound and kick-in. Any answers would be appreciated!
> 
> Rob


Rob to be clear, do you mean after the movie itself it started? You won't get anything other than stereo normally when all the previews and preliminary items are playing on the disk. 

Again, just to confirm the movie will start in stereo? And then it will kick into a full surround for my two or three minutes into the movie itself?


----------



## RobDec

Yes that's what it does not all the time though. I have other issues though, maybe you or someone else can piece it together.
1) sometime the blue menu rolls or turns pink for a second.
2)a couple of audio dropouts on Sat, but that cold be just Directv. One dropout on Return of the King
3)sometimes on my Oppo 103D the front pane freezes showing on it "Root Menu".
4)I pressed the Menu button and setup menus didn't show, but worked.

I switched HDMI cables and got the Menu back, (crossing my fingers). I don't mean to drop all this on you, But again I would appreciated it.

Rob


----------



## Thxtheater

RobDec said:


> Yes that's what it does not all the time though. I have other issues though, maybe you or someone else can piece it together.
> 1) sometime the blue menu rolls or turns pink for a second.
> 2)a couple of audio dropouts on Sat, but that cold be just Directv. One dropout on Return of the King
> 3)sometimes on my Oppo 103D the front pane freezes showing on it "Root Menu".
> 4)I pressed the Menu button and setup menus didn't show, but worked.
> 
> I switched HDMI cables and got the Menu back, (crossing my fingers). I don't mean to drop all this on you, But again I would appreciated it.
> 
> Rob


The screen turning pink and audio dropouts sound like an HDMI handshake issue. My first suggestion is for you to change the HDMI cable. How long is your HDMI cable run and what cable are you using?


----------



## RobDec

Thxtheater, thanks for your response.
Im using Audio Quest chocolate 1m from Oppo 103d to AVM 50v, and then Audio Quest Chocolate 3m from AVM 50v to display.
I swapped the 1m cable with the Oppo cable I got when I purchase the unit. Its 6 foot.

I had a problem with audio dropouts on 3d, I swicthed the HDMI cables to different inputs on display and AVM50v and no more 3d problems

Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Thxtheater, thanks for your response.
> Im using Audio Quest chocolate 1m from Oppo 103d to AVM 50v, and then Audio Quest Chocolate 3m from AVM 50v to display.
> I swapped the 1m cable with the Oppo cable I got when I purchase the unit. Its 6 foot.
> 
> I had a problem with audio dropouts on 3d, I swicthed the HDMI cables to different inputs on display and AVM50v and no more 3d problems
> 
> Rob


It has been stated previously in the forum and I am sure not easily found, that 6 ft is the minimum length desired for an HDMI cable.
Maybe also try a different brand than Audioquest, Not saying they are bad it just might be a mismatch with your equipment.
I have always had good luck with the OPPO supplied cable and Monoprice.
You do not need ultra cost HDMI cables but do need a HDMI 1.4 or High Speed cable.


----------



## RobDec

thestewman said:


> It has been stated previously in the forum and I am sure not easily found, that 6 ft is the minimum length desired for an HDMI cable.
> Maybe also try a different brand than Audioquest, Not saying they are bad it just might be a mismatch with your equipment.
> I have always had good luck with the OPPO supplied cable and Monoprice.
> You do not need ultra cost HDMI cables but do need a HDMI 1.4 or High Speed cable.


 Thanks Do you know where I can get the Monoprice? Im also using a Audioquest power cord. Do you think that might be an issue?
I love this processor, just hoping nothings wrong.
Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Thanks Do you know where I can get the Monoprice? Im also using a Audioquest power cord. Do you think that might be an issue?
> I love this processor, just hoping nothings wrong.
> Rob


Monoprice http://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=102&cp_id=10240.

Remember at least 6ft and High speed. 

I wish I could guarantee this will fix the problem but I can't

The power cord would have no effect on the HDMI handshake


----------



## Thxtheater

RobDec said:


> Thxtheater, thanks for your response.
> Im using Audio Quest chocolate 1m from Oppo 103d to AVM 50v, and then Audio Quest Chocolate 3m from AVM 50v to display.
> I swapped the 1m cable with the Oppo cable I got when I purchase the unit. Its 6 foot.
> 
> I had a problem with audio dropouts on 3d, I swicthed the HDMI cables to different inputs on display and AVM50v and no more 3d problems
> 
> Rob


Rob,

what display are you using and do you have deep color turned on in the oppo? I had very similar issues with my AVM50v3D and documented what I did in earlier posts and noted what settings caused the problem in 3D and which did not.


----------



## Kris Deering

I have used a Sonos box with the D2/D2V with no issues at all. I can't remember what the model name was specifically, but it was the box with the digital output. I just fed it directly to the Anthem and used the iPhone app. Worked fine, no issues. Sonos has some restrictions in terms of what resolution you want to playback though. I don't remember the cap though. I also used a Squeezebox which worked well too and didn't have the same restrictions in terms of resolution. 

Now I just have all the music I want on a hard drive connected directly to my Oppo. No restrictions on resolution or file type.


----------



## RobDec

Thxtheater said:


> Rob,
> 
> what display are you using and do you have deep color turned on in the oppo? I had very similar issues with my AVM50v3D and documented what I did in earlier posts and noted what settings caused the problem in 3D and which did not.


Thxtheater,
Im using the Sharp LC-80E844U. Should I turn deep color on the Oppo on or off?
Rob


----------



## Thxtheater

RobDec said:


> Thxtheater,
> Im using the Sharp LC-80E844U. Should I turn deep color on the Oppo on or off?
> Rob


Turn all those options off. Put color to REC. 709 or 4:2:2 out of the Oppo. I documented issues with Samsung, Panasonic and Sony that I could not duplicate with my Oppo but my Oppo isn't 3D. I could only duplicate the issue in the 3D models.


----------



## RobDec

Thxtheater said:


> Turn all those options off. Put color to REC. 709 or 4:2:2 out of the Oppo. I documented issues with Samsung, Panasonic and Sony that I could not duplicate with my Oppo but my Oppo isn't 3D. I could only duplicate the issue in the 3D models.


 I turned off settings and changed to 4:2:2. I think its definitely a handshake issue. I swapped AQ cable with 4m Acoustical Research cable and the pink got worse.
I reseated HDMI cables hope this works.

Rob


----------



## Thxtheater

We had a discussion a while back about what audio resolution ARC can processes without downsampling. Audioholics has posted an article on ARC that indicates that it's 96kHz for the pre-pros and 48kHz for the receivers. http://www.audioholics.com/room-acoustics/anthem-arc-room-eq-interview


----------



## Thxtheater

RobDec said:


> I turned off settings and changed to 4:2:2. I think its definitely a handshake issue. I swapped AQ cable with 4m Acoustical Research cable and the pink got worse.
> I reseated HDMI cables hope this works.
> 
> Rob


In addition to accumulating an HDMI cable library with all my testing I also invested in an HDMI cable tester from Monoprice. Best thing I ever did. That way I'm not playing the guessing game with cables. 

Personally, I'm sold on Monoprice and Bluejeans HDMI cables. I've had excellent success with the HDMI Redmere cables. Not a single one has given me a problem.

If it's any help, look at my problem from this post and what I did with debugging. It may or may not be related. I and to have a certain combination of settings to get it to work just right.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...0v-arc1-tweaking-guide-1421.html#post24566272 Post number #42616


----------



## RobDec

Thxtheater said:


> In addition to accumulating an HDMI cable library with all my testing I also invested in an HDMI cable tester from Monoprice. Best thing I ever did. That way I'm not playing the guessing game with cables.
> 
> Personally, I'm sold on Monoprice and Bluejeans HDMI cables. I've had excellent success with the HDMI Redmere cables. Not a single one has given me a problem.
> 
> If it's any help, look at my problem from this post and what I did with debugging. It may or may not be related. I and to have a certain combination of settings to get it to work just right.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...0v-arc1-tweaking-guide-1421.html#post24566272 Post number #42616


 Thanks
I did some tweeking and no more audio dropouts. It seems all of my issues were resolved. I reseated HDMI cables, hard booted my display. restored factory defaults on Oppo.
The only problem is pink flashes, and occasionally my menu which I have set at BLUE gives me a faded blue color. I did some research and found others have similar problems. There solution was to Not to turn the menu ON and OFF and then again ON and OFF (to space them about 10 minutes apart, which works) But it doesn't eliminate the problem. Until I get new HDMI cables, it will have to do.
Rob


----------



## Mr. Foo

I have an AVM-50 with ARC for sale over in classifieds, if anyone is interested. It pains me to unload it but I am forced to move to an apartment. :-(


----------



## Back_to_the_Sound

Anthem has an new update that makes the D2v to decode ATMOS?

I was told so...


----------



## Kris Deering

The D2V will not do Atmos. It, like every other audio processor or receiver, will still play the standard TrueHD soundtrack and will ignore the Atmos metadata for Atmos encoded Blu-rays. Essentially all the "objects" are just mixed down into the base soundtrack (just like 7.1 to 5.1).


----------



## Back_to_the_Sound

Tank you Kris

So it's not a very good purschase now, as i believe Anthem will join that "Atmos party" soon...


----------



## Kris Deering

Back_to_the_Sound said:


> Tank you Kris
> 
> So it's not a very good purschase now, as i believe Anthem will join that "Atmos party" soon...


If you are looking to join the "Atmos Party" than YES, it is not a good purchase now. If you aren't interested in the Atmos party than the D2V is a fantastic surround processor. There has been rumors that a D3 is in the works for years now but nothing from Anthem. I'm sure they are working on something though, but how long until we see a new processor is anyone's guess. But how much "Atmos" content we'll see anytime soon on Blu-ray is a guess too. I expect a trickle of content in the next year at best considering how many titles are actually getting Atmos mixes for the theater.


----------



## Thxtheater

Guys I'm exploring an option I need feedback on. I'm looking to auto switch a day-night mode via the Anthem vs doing it on the TV. I cannot seem to find discreet IR or IP codes to do this for a Panasonic ZT60. Therefore assuming there are no such codes could I create a day and night mode for certain inputs using the Anthem virtual inputs. 

For example, I could set DVD1 to be DVD Day and DVD2 to be night. If I did it this way and assuming that's an acceptable best practice, can I simply adjust the Anthem's brightness and contrast and gamma to accomplish this using a Spears and Munsil disc?


----------



## thestewman

Thxtheater said:


> Guys I'm exploring an option I need feedback on. I'm looking to auto switch a day-night mode via the Anthem vs doing it on the TV. I cannot seem to find discreet IR or IP codes to do this for a Panasonic ZT60. Therefore assuming there are no such codes could I create a day and night mode for certain inputs using the Anthem virtual inputs.
> 
> For example, I could set DVD1 to be DVD Day and DVD2 to be night. If I did it this way and assuming that's an acceptable best practice, can I simply adjust the Anthem's brightness and contrast and gamma to accomplish this using a Spears and Munsil disc?


Absolutely

After setting your source to the correct input enter the video processing menu by holding down the #7 button on the Anthem remote.
The menu saves the adjustments made on every source you set.


----------



## stanger89

Back_to_the_Sound said:


> Anthem has an new update that makes the D2v to decode ATMOS?
> 
> I was told so...


I was about to say that it's impossible to update the D2V to support Atmos, but it would be possible to do a 5.1.2 configuration. Hm, that's an interesting thought. Though to get really robust Atmos support, will require an entirely new platform with more than 8 channels of output.


----------



## Thxtheater

thestewman said:


> Absolutely
> 
> After setting your source to the correct input enter the video processing menu by holding down the #7 button on the Anthem remote.
> The menu saves the adjustments made on every source you set.


If I'm using that option, what's the best way to calibrate the "reference" setting? Would best practice be to calibrate a "day" setting and then lower the contrast and brightness accordingly for a "night" setting? 

I'm trying to figure out what becomes my baseline setting that I'm adjusting from.

I also looked at the live settings editor but I don't see any documentation with it. It doesn't exactly correspond to giving me a 10-point grayscale adjustment from what I can tell at a quick glance.


----------



## Apgood

To make a new ATMOS capable processor (with more than 7 channels) Anthem would also need to rework ARC to handle more than 7.1 channels since none of their processors or avr's do more than 7.1 channels. This may or may not be a lot of work, especially if you need to factor in special curves for Atmos enabled speakers. This needs to be factored into the development time for any processor. 

I imagine rather than jump in now they will probably wait on finalization of any processor until the DTS side of things is clearer since I think I remember Nick mentioning in one of the Anthem related threads (it was around the time that the new MRX range was realeased) that they are probably moving away from hardware upgradable processors (I.e. no more swapping out of boards like happened for 3D). Which means they would need to make sure that any hardware that they settle on needs to be sufficient for the foreseeable technology changes for the product's lifecycle and at the moment there are a number of unknowns.

Sent from my LG-D802T using Tapatalk


----------



## thestewman

Thxtheater said:


> If I'm using that option, what's the best way to calibrate the "reference" setting? Would best practice be to calibrate a "day" setting and then lower the contrast and brightness accordingly for a "night" setting?
> 
> I'm trying to figure out what becomes my baseline setting that I'm adjusting from.
> 
> I also looked at the live settings editor but I don't see any documentation with it. It doesn't exactly correspond to giving me a 10-point grayscale adjustment from what I can tell at a quick glance.


I guess I never heard of anyone having a Day and Night setting. You normally would set your display to the reference setting using the display's ability to be set correctly as most newer displays probably are able to be set internally better that the older Anthem processing.
Then you would make changes in the room lighting if you have to compensate for lighting changes. Much easier to change the room lighting with drapes, shades etc,


----------



## Thxtheater

thestewman said:


> I guess I never heard of anyone having a Day and Night setting. You normally would set your display to the reference setting using the display's ability to be set correctly as most newer displays probably are able to be set internally better that the older Anthem processing.
> Then you would make changes in the room lighting if you have to compensate for lighting changes. Much easier to change the room lighting with drapes, shades etc,


I don't have the ability for full light control. I've re-calibrated my display for a pro day and pro night setting but I'd like to integrate the selection of these via automation. Right now, that doesn't seem to be possible via the display without navigating through the menu each time. 

I also thought about using the Anthem's HDMI 1 HDMI 2 to feed the same signal to two different HDMI ports on the display. That won't be possible since it creates an HDMI loop. 

Thus, doing some calibration adjustments via the Anthem


----------



## stanger89

Apgood said:


> To make a new ATMOS capable processor (with more than 7 channels) Anthem would also need to rework ARC to handle more than 7.1 channels since none of their processors or avr's do more than 7.1 channels. This may or may not be a lot of work, especially if you need to factor in special curves for Atmos enabled speakers. This needs to be factored into the development time for any processor.


I don't think the ARC part will be too hard, to a large extent it's just increasing the number of channels, which is just crunching more numbers. A problem "easily" solved with more DSP power. The big hurdle will be the need for more hardware channels. And of course just how far do they take their Atmos implementation. Do they go with an AVR style 7.1.4 arrangement, or do they really go for it and allow more channels and flexible speaker placement. It would seem something like that is what should be found in a $5k+ processor, but that would be no small task I would think (though it's probably "just" an integration effort with Dolby's algorithms).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thxtheater said:


> Guys I'm exploring an option I need feedback on. I'm looking to auto switch a day-night mode via the Anthem vs doing it on the TV. I cannot seem to find discreet IR or IP codes to do this for a Panasonic ZT60. Therefore assuming there are no such codes could I create a day and night mode for certain inputs using the Anthem virtual inputs.
> 
> For example, I could set DVD1 to be DVD Day and DVD2 to be night. If I did it this way and assuming that's an acceptable best practice, can I simply adjust the Anthem's brightness and contrast and gamma to accomplish this using a Spears and Munsil disc?


You could, but, as always, the RIGHT place to make calibration adjustments like this is in the display. That's because there's only so much room to maneuver in the data ranges on the HDMI cable.

So for best quality viewing, set up your two sets of levels in the display.

You may be able to use the two HDMI outputs of the D2v into two separate inputs of the display to accomplish this.
--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater

Bob Pariseau said:


> Thxtheater said:
> 
> 
> 
> Guys I'm exploring an option I need feedback on. I'm looking to auto switch a day-night mode via the Anthem vs doing it on the TV. I cannot seem to find discreet IR or IP codes to do this for a Panasonic ZT60. Therefore assuming there are no such codes could I create a day and night mode for certain inputs using the Anthem virtual inputs.
> 
> For example, I could set DVD1 to be DVD Day and DVD2 to be night. If I did it this way and assuming that's an acceptable best practice, can I simply adjust the Anthem's brightness and contrast and gamma to accomplish this using a Spears and Munsil disc?
> 
> 
> 
> You could, but, as always, the RIGHT place to make calibration adjustments like this is in the display. That's because there's only so much room to maneuver in the data ranges on the HDMI cable.
> 
> So for best quality viewing, set up your two sets of levels in the display.
> 
> You may be able to use the two HDMI outputs of the D2v into two separate inputs of the display to accomplish this.
> --Bob
Click to expand...

Bob you read my mind. I have tried that by putting Anthem HDMI 1 and 2 to two different HDMI inputs. However it causes my source to blink on and off. I can't seem to get that to work properly. That would be the ideal since I have each HDMI input properly and independently calibrated. 

Any thoughts as to why that symptom may be happening?


----------



## DaveBoswell

Thxtheater said:


> Bob you read my mind. I have tried that by putting Anthem HDMI 1 and 2 to two different HDMI inputs. However it causes my source to blink on and off. I can't seem to get that to work properly. That would be the ideal since I have each HDMI input properly and independently calibrated.
> 
> Any thoughts as to why that symptom may be happening?


Not sure if this helps but I've solved this problem but defining custom calibrations in the projector and have 3 settings that I created custom buttons on my programmable remote to directly access from each video input. None of the settings on the Anthem would be able to control the projector's iris setting, which is the most important one that I use for difference between day and night settings in my case.

I have one for Highest contrast and accurate colors for critical dark-room viewing (iris at lowest setting on projector - I have a JVC), one for accurate colors but fully open iris for lower contrast but brighter picture when there are more lights on in the room, and one with very bright but not accurate colors for casual use of the HTPC and XBOX or for sports with friends and some room lighting on. I could have created a macro in the Harmony (and presumably you could do this with any other decently programmable remote) but honestly it's pretty simple to click one button on the remote to manually select when I want it.

Dave


----------



## Thxtheater

DaveBoswell said:


> Thxtheater said:
> 
> 
> 
> Bob you read my mind. I have tried that by putting Anthem HDMI 1 and 2 to two different HDMI inputs. However it causes my source to blink on and off. I can't seem to get that to work properly. That would be the ideal since I have each HDMI input properly and independently calibrated.
> 
> Any thoughts as to why that symptom may be happening?
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if this helps but I've solved this problem but defining custom calibrations in the projector and have 3 settings that I created custom buttons on my programmable remote to directly access from each video input. None of the settings on the Anthem would be able to control the projector's iris setting, which is the most important one that I use for difference between day and night settings in my case.
> 
> I have one for Highest contrast and accurate colors for critical dark-room viewing (iris at lowest setting on projector - I have a JVC), one for accurate colors but fully open iris for lower contrast but brighter picture when there are more lights on in the room, and one with very bright but not accurate colors for casual use of the HTPC and XBOX or for sports with friends and some room lighting on. I could have created a macro in the Harmony (and presumably you could do this with any other decently programmable remote) but honestly it's pretty simple to click one button on the remote to manually select when I want it.
> 
> Dave
Click to expand...


Hi Dave 

Yes that's helpful and my ideal solution. Two things are preventing me from doing that:

1) I cannot use two different HDMI ports on the TV. if I try that I'm getting the video and audio blinking and dropping. 

2) there is no discreet command to call up picture controls. I had posted this on to the Panasonic form and I got the reply today that unfortunately there is neither an IP nor an infrared command to do that. I guess I could do some sort of macro. However the problem would arise that if I'm in one particular setting over another I couldn't specifically do a macro for that because it wouldn't know which originating setting I'm on. 

I'm glad that your responses are at least validating my gut on this. Seems like I'll have to do some more testing between the anthem HDMI one and HDMI two outputs to see if I can get to the bottom of why I'm getting the signal dropping all the time when I have both of those outputs active. 
From what I gather if I have the HDMI one output from the Anthem going to the television and the HDMI to output from the anthem going to a second HDMI input on the television I shouldn't be getting the HDMI drops that I'm seeing


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Thxtheater said:


> Bob you read my mind. I have tried that by putting Anthem HDMI 1 and 2 to two different HDMI inputs. However it causes my source to blink on and off. I can't seem to get that to work properly. That would be the ideal since I have each HDMI input properly and independently calibrated.
> 
> Any thoughts as to why that symptom may be happening?


This is likely caused by the display not shutting down the input you are not using at the moment. Thus you have two "live" HDMI paths going into the same device, which causes HDMI copy protection to froth at the mouth and fall over backwards.

The usual culprits here are Audio Return Channel (allow audio to be sent back down the HDMI cable to the AVR), and CEC (remote control of one device by another across the HDMI cable between them). See if you can find settings in the display to disable those. In some cases, they will only be available on one HDMI input and so the way you "disable" them is to not use that input as one of the 2 inputs you need to use.

Check the Owners thread here for your display to see if you can get any clues on this.

If nothing else works, you can likely get a remote controllable HDMI switch to place between the Anthem and the display. Feed the Main HDMI output of the Anthem into that and have it switch that to the display input you want to use. The switch itself should isolate the unused input.
--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater

^^^
Thanks Bob. I know CEC is off and ARC is only active on HDMI 1 and that is indeed one of the inputs I was using. I'll try HDMI 2 and 3 and see if that fixes. Great nugget there and I'll pursue that angle and report back. 

Thanks again guys.


----------



## thestewman

Thxtheater said:


> ^^^
> Thanks Bob. I know CEC is off and ARC is only active on HDMI 1 and that is indeed one of the inputs I was using. I'll try HDMI 2 and 3 and see if that fixes. Great nugget there and I'll pursue that angle and report back.
> 
> Thanks again guys.



Go back to your original idea because it will work.
Take DVD 1 and rename it Video 1 or something you prefer.
Take DVD 2 and rename it Video 2 or something you prefer.
Now set up Video 1 with the source you want to use. Got to button 7 on the Anthem remote and set up the source the way you prefer for the lighting conditions.
Now go to Video 2 and using* the same source*. Do the same for this source with 7 on the remote for video setup.
You will be using only HDMI 1 out from the Anthem and you can select with one click a different video setup.
I do this with the same source now so I can select 24p, 25p, 30p, 60p frame rates or a different audio input.
It allows 1 button remote selection.


----------



## Thxtheater

Bingo I think we have a winning solution! I moved the inputs from HDMI 1 and 2 (HDMI 1 has audio return) to HDMI 2 and 3 and all dropouts are gone! I now have my daytime calibration on HDMI 2 and evening on HDMI 3. I'll report back if there are any anomalies but right now it looks great and solved an issue for me in this setup. Thanks to all and Bob you nailed it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Keep in mind that the feed from the 2nd Anthem output won't include any on screen text like Volume displays. 
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Also, if you are trying to do 3D pass through, that too is limited to the Main HDMI output. 
--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater

Well I have partial success. My oppo is still dropping the signal but the rest of my sources quickly tested out OK. I'll debug that one tomorrow.


----------



## Thxtheater

Bob Pariseau said:


> Keep in mind that the feed from the 2nd Anthem output won't include any on screen text like Volume displays.
> --Bob


Yes. Those OSD elements aren't essential. Thanks for the reminder!


----------



## whitecamaross

Can anyone here tell me if they ever ran their Hdmi output into the back hdmi input on the oppo and displayed this on a projector screen ??? I have done it successfully but the screen has a black vertical bar on the left side. I can't remove it and have tried everything. Any ideas ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Are you using the latest firmware in your OPPO?

Check the HDMI Sync setting in the Anthem video output.

Check using the built in test patterns in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust menu) to make sure your issue is not due to your source device setup.
--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Are you using the latest firmware in your OPPO?
> 
> Check the HDMI Sync setting in the Anthem video output.
> 
> Check using the built in test patterns in the Anthem (Video Source Adjust menu) to make sure your issue is not due to your source device setup.
> --Bob


Check on the latest Oppo Firmware. I'll double check the Anthem settings as well. I was able to confirm that this worked on an AppleTV gen2, cable, and MacMini But all those sources are also 720p/1080i. 

I'll double check the Anthem settings later on as I cannot recall what they are set at. 

Thanks Bob.


----------



## whitecamaross

Any idea bob as to what my problem could be?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ My post just above on things to check was actually a reply to you WHITECAMAROSS and not to THXTHEATER. Check the items I mentioned there first.
--Bob


----------



## Thxtheater

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ My post just above on things to check was actually a reply to you WHITECAMAROSS and not to THXTHEATER. Check the items I mentioned there first.
> --Bob



Assumptions will always get you in trouble


----------



## Texas steve

Has there been a beta update for us that have the NON 3D D2Vs?


----------



## whitecamaross

ok Bob the hdmi syn setting did the trick. i set it to inverted and it worked. That being said, where should i set the resolution and the data? i have the data setting in Studio RGB and the color space in auto, resolution in 1920x1080p60. if i put the data in any other setting besides extended rgb or studio rgb, i get picture with green color or a redidish shade all over the image. 
Let me know what you recommend.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Do not use Extended RGB when sending video into the OPPO. It is not designed to handle that properly.

You should be able to use Studio RGB or either YCbCr choice. It is possible that you need to change the Sync setting according to which you are using.

Video which is tinted Ghastly Green or Shocking Pink means that the HDMI handshake has failed to resolve whether RGB or YCbCr is in use. That's a type of handshake failure, and could be happening on the output side of the OPPO or on the input from the Anthem.

As always with handshake failures, you should first consider improving your HDMI cabling. Remember that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so the entire HDMI cabling path from end to end is suspect.
--Bob


----------



## whitecamaross

I was using the extended rgb and had zero issues with it when feeding it to the back input of the oppo... It actually makes the colors more vivid or the overall image seems a little brighter then when using studio. I also can't use any other setting besides those 2 otherwise I get the terrible colors Etc. I'm using a Sony 40es projector and the cable is about 30ft long. no issues when it comes to grabbing the signal. To be honest, the picture looks better when I go through the oppo rather than going through the d2. Maybe it's the darbee in the oppo that makes things pop.


----------



## stanger89

whitecamaross said:


> I was using the extended rgb and had zero issues with it when feeding it to the back input of the oppo... It actually makes the colors more vivid or the overall image seems a little brighter then when using studio.


That's a calibration issue, if Extended vs Studio RGB look different, (brightness/contrast/black level/etc) then one wasn't calibrated for correctly.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

whitecamaross said:


> I was using the extended rgb and had zero issues with it when feeding it to the back input of the oppo... It actually makes the colors more vivid or the overall image seems a little brighter then when using studio. I also can't use any other setting besides those 2 otherwise I get the terrible colors Etc. I'm using a Sony 40es projector and the cable is about 30ft long. no issues when it comes to grabbing the signal. To be honest, the picture looks better when I go through the oppo rather than going through the d2. Maybe it's the darbee in the oppo that makes things pop.


The HDMI Inputs of the OPPO can not be set to expect Extended RGB input. They assume that any RGB input is Studio RGB (what OPPO calls "RGB Video Level"). If you use Extended RGB input your video calibration will be incorrect.

The best choice of HDMI input format into the OPPO is either YCbCr 4:4:4 or YCbCr 4:2:2. That can be calibrated correctly. Even Studio RGB input is not truly "right" in that it introduces a color space math error (Greens are too dark) when the input video Resolution is 720p or higher. This is a problem that's been around so long without getting fixed that I suspect it is baked into the OPPO hardware that processes those inputs.

As I stated above, green or red tinted video is a symptom of HDMI handshake failure. Simplify the handshake with settings: Set the OPPO to an explicit Color Space (not Auto). Set your input device into the OPPO to send an explicit color space (not Auto). It is OK to send YCbCr into the OPPO and yet have the OPPO send RGB Video Level to the Display. Turn Deep Color OFF until you resolve the handshake failure. Deep Color puts more bandwidth on the HDMI cable and that makes failures more likely. If settings changes alone don't fix the problem then you really should check out different cabling.
--Bob


----------



## whitecamaross

Ok Bob. I'll try what you suggested when I get home. Is there a specific hdmi cable you recommend ? I'd hate to buy 86 different cables in order to find the one I need.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

whitecamaross said:


> Ok Bob. I'll try what you suggested when I get home. Is there a specific hdmi cable you recommend ? I'd hate to buy 86 different cables in order to find the one I need.


First, buy only cables that are labelled as "For 1080p" or "High Speed" or "Category 2", which all mean the same thing.

Next, use a 6 foot (2 meter) cable between any devices close enough together. 6 foot length (not shorter or longer) is ideal for HDMI robustness.

The Redmere technology cables are good for longer distances. They have an active circuit in the plug at one end that makes the longer length act like a 6 foot cable. This also means they are directional -- you have to plug them in the right way around (source to destination).

Monoprice and Blue Jeans cable -- both AVS Forum sponsors -- sell good cables at reasonable prices.

Before replacing your long cable to the projector, check whether cabling makes a difference by temporarily carrying the OPPO and your source device (the Anthem if that's what you intend to use) over near the projector so that you can hook things up using 6 foot cables. The cable that comes with the OPPO is a good one for this, and that means you'll only need one more.

ANYTHING in the HDMI path should be suspect. That includes daisy-chained cables, adapters, switches, gizmos (like stand-alone Darbee), and wall plates. Wall plates (used to tidy up the end of long cable runs in the walls) are particularly suspect. There was a point in time where it was very hard to buy a wall plate which actually worked for 1080p/60 video. So when testing, bypass all such stuff and use single cable runs from source to OPPO and from OPPO to display. Once THAT works, then add back in your longer cable and other stuff to see if you can find the culprit.

HDMI plugs are just friction fit. It is VERY common for handshake problems to be caused by nothing more complicated than a plug shifting a bit in the socket -- it only takes a small shift to screw things up -- perhaps due to cable weight or packaging kinks in a newly purchased cable. Try reseating the plugs, making sure they are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets with nothing tugging on them in any direction. Again, remember that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so any connection or cable along the ENTIRE path could be the cause of your problem.

If your display prefers RGB input, then set the OPPO to output RGB Video Level. It's OK to still feed YCbCr into the OPPO from your source device.

Set Deep Color output OFF in the OPPO. Set the Anthem to output "8 bit" video.

Use an explicit Color Space choice in both the OPPO and the source device -- not Auto or Through.

Use an explicit Resolution choice in the OPPO and the source device -- typically 1080p -- not Auto, or Source Direct, or Through.

If you are still having trouble with YCbCr input into the OPPO, try switching the Sync setting back to normal in the Anthem.
--Bob


----------



## solly46

Question.
I had to replace my ARC-1 mic for my D2V. I downloaded the newest software, copied over the .cal file from the orig CD and renamed to match my D2V serial. 
Once I received prompt and selected mic with correct serial #, received an error "failed to load calibration File" Does anyone know how to resolve, or are their other files I need to copy from the orig CD to the ARC folder prior to running setup?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If you got a new ARC mic then you need a new calibration file to match. 

Email Anthem Tech Support with the Serial Number of your D2v and the Serial Number of your new ARC mic and they will email back what you need to copy into Windows > Program Files. 
--Bob


----------



## solly46

Bob Pariseau said:


> If you got a new ARC mic then you need a new calibration file to match.
> 
> Email Anthem a Tech Support with the Serial Number of your D2v and the Serial Number of your new ARC mic and they will email back what you need to copy into Windows > Program Files.
> --Bob


Thanks Bob


----------



## whitecamaross

Bob,
So last night when I got home from work I powered on all my equipment and the oppo has one long 30ft hdmi cable connected to the projector and I had terrible handshake. Like errors on the image and all I have was a Blu-ray playing. So I removed the hdmi cable and plugged in a 30 ft hdmi redmere cable. I also changed the settings on the oppo to rgb level I think it's called and set the output to 1080p. I turned off deep color and on the d2 I changed it to 4:4:4 and the resolution to 1920 60p I think it's called? 
I couldn't find the 8 bit setting you mentioned. I looked everywhere. 
Anyhow I don't have per say any handshake issues other than the occasional video drop when the Blu-ray movie Is loading before it begins. 
A couple of things that I noticed was that for some reason I leave everything working just fine and then I turn everything off and when I turn things on the next day then the madness begins again? A handshake issue... Hopefully it doesnt today after all the tweaking I did last night. 
I remember having the regular oppo 103 and not having many handshake issues so that's why I bought the 103d last week and I've noticed more handshake issues with it? The reason why I'm using the oppos rear hdmi input is so that I can use the d2 as a switcher and feed the video signal to the oppo from the d2 so that I can take advantage of its darbee because thats the whole reason why I bought it. I thought of just running everything through the d2 and then straight to the projector from there but that would pretty much defeat the purpose of the darbee...
Thoughts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

whitecamaross said:


> Bob,
> So last night when I got home from work I powered on all my equipment and the oppo has one long 30ft hdmi cable connected to the projector and I had terrible handshake. Like errors on the image and all I have was a Blu-ray playing. So I removed the hdmi cable and plugged in a 30 ft hdmi redmere cable. I also changed the settings on the oppo to rgb level I think it's called and set the output to 1080p. I turned off deep color and on the d2 I changed it to 4:4:4 and the resolution to 1920 60p I think it's called?
> I couldn't find the 8 bit setting you mentioned. I looked everywhere.
> Anyhow I don't have per say any handshake issues other than the occasional video drop when the Blu-ray movie Is loading before it begins.
> A couple of things that I noticed was that for some reason I leave everything working just fine and then I turn everything off and when I turn things on the next day then the madness begins again? A handshake issue... Hopefully it doesnt today after all the tweaking I did last night.
> I remember having the regular oppo 103 and not having many handshake issues so that's why I bought the 103d last week and I've noticed more handshake issues with it? The reason why I'm using the oppos rear hdmi input is so that I can use the d2 as a switcher and feed the video signal to the oppo from the d2 so that I can take advantage of its darbee because thats the whole reason why I bought it. I thought of just running everything through the d2 and then straight to the projector from there but that would pretty much defeat the purpose of the darbee...
> Thoughts?


The 8-bit setting I was talking about is in the video output configuration for a D2v. If you have the original D2 there is no such setting.

In the OPPO, the equivalent setting is to turn Deep Color OFF for the output you are using.

Problems that happen on power up almost always are just due to the order in which you turn on the gear. The recommended order is in the reverse order of the signal flow. So turn on the display first, wait, then the OPPO in your case, wait, then any source device plugged into the OPPO, wait, then anything plugged into that source. What happens is that HDMI handshakes are driven by the earliest device in the chain. But if that device starts the handshake before some later device has fully woken up then you may get bogus responses from that later device which screw up the handshake. Some displays and projectors are known to screw up in this fashion.

You can test this by doing the power ups and waits manually using the separate remotes for each device. Wait until the device you've turned on has fully booted up before turning on the next, earlier device. If a slow and deliberate power up sequence like this cures the issue, then you can automate it with a programmable remote such as the Logitech Harmony remotes. You may very well find that only the display needs a significant delay after it is turned on before you turn on the next, earlier device.
--Bob


----------



## AVfile

whitecamaross said:


> The reason why I'm using the oppos rear hdmi input is so that I can use the d2 as a switcher and feed the video signal to the oppo from the d2 so that I can take advantage of its darbee because thats the whole reason why I bought it. I thought of just running everything through the d2 and then straight to the projector from there but that would pretty much defeat the purpose of the darbee...
> Thoughts?



That's awkward and may be problematic. It should go Other source -> Oppo -> D2 -> Projector.

If you have more than one "other source" just connect it to the D2. Can't have Darbee on everything but hopefully no big loss.


----------



## whitecamaross

OK but what other options do i have if I want to take full advantage of the darbee??? I have to go straight from the oppo to my projector if I want to take advantage of it because the d2 doesn't have a pass through mode. If I route it through the d2 then it will do its internal processing before going to the oppo. That would defeat the purpose of me buying the darbee.....


----------



## whitecamaross

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Do not use Extended RGB when sending video into the OPPO. It is not designed to handle that properly.
> 
> You should be able to use Studio RGB or either YCbCr choice. It is possible that you need to change the Sync setting according to which you are using.
> 
> Video which is tinted Ghastly Green or Shocking Pink means that the HDMI handshake has failed to resolve whether RGB or YCbCr is in use. That's a type of handshake failure, and could be happening on the output side of the OPPO or on the input from the Anthem.
> 
> As always with handshake failures, you should first consider improving your HDMI cabling. Remember that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so the entire HDMI cabling path from end to end is suspect.
> --Bob


Bob, 
it looks like only studio rgb does not give me the crazy colors when feeding it through my bluray back input. 
Lastly, i have 2 30ft monoprice hdmi cables that i had original connected to a line booster in order to make it long enough to reach my projector. Anyhow, after i decided to not use them like that anymore and just run one of them straight to my projector, none of the 2 30ft redmere cables are working today. I tried connecting them to the ps3, d2, etc and the screen is black on the projector. I swapped them out and tried a cheap bluerigger 35ft hdmi that i had in my garage and i get a picture. 
How could a line booster damage 2 redmere cables that NEVER moved anymore? i have contacted monoprice to see if they can replace the cables since they have a lifetime warranty..


----------



## AVfile

whitecamaross said:


> OK but what other options do i have if I want to take full advantage of the darbee??? I have to go straight from the oppo to my projector if I want to take advantage of it because the d2 doesn't have a pass through mode. If I route it through the d2 then it will do its internal processing before going to the oppo. That would defeat the purpose of me buying the darbee.....



NOPE. The D2 should be quite transparent if you don't fiddle with its video setup controls. Set the Oppo to output Studio RGB and set the D2 to output same (that is the native format of the Gennum processor inside the D2). With Deep Color OFF the output will be 8-bit per channel (24-bit) which the D2 will pass no problem, regardless of any Darbee processing added to the image.


----------



## whitecamaross

Has anyone actually proven this... I don't mind running everything through the d2 but I'd prefer to use the video processor of the oppo..


----------



## whitecamaross

Has anyone actually proven this... I don't mind running everything through the d2 but I'd prefer to use the video processor of the oppo..


----------



## dreamhomecinema

any new firmware for anthem D2v 3d of rectify of 5.1 DTSHD signal l audio which is coming 7.1 speakers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ That is not a bug. It does that in accordance with the DTS specs for any advanced pre-pro which implements the DTS "speaker presentation" processing as part of its decoding.

Technically what's happening is that the side surrounds in a 7.1 mix default to 90 degrees either side of center -- i.e., even with the seating. But the side surrounds in a 5.1 mix default to BEHIND the seating -- for example 110 degrees.

When you play a 5.1 mix into 7.1 speakers, DTS-HD MA creates a phantom placement of those 5.1 side channels (somewhat behind the seating) by sending audio to both the side and rear pair of surround speakers in the 7.1 layout.
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

whitecamaross said:


> Has anyone actually proven this... I don't mind running everything through the d2 but I'd prefer to use the video processor of the oppo..


If you use the default picture settings in the OPPO and in the original D2, and turn Deep Color OFF for the output of the OPPO, then the D2 preserves the data values of a 1080p image coming in from the OPPO.

The original D2 does not support Deep Color so attempts to enable that in the OPPO will be ignored due to the HDMI handshake. The newer D2v is different.
--Bob


----------



## whitecamaross

Ok so are you saying that connecting the oppo 103d to the d2 and going out of the d2 into the projector will not defeat the darbee ? You're staying it will be the same as doing a video pass through without degrading the signal from the oppo ???


----------



## Bob Pariseau

whitecamaross said:


> Ok so are you saying that connecting the oppo 103d to the d2 and going out of the d2 into the projector will not defeat the darbee ? You're staying it will be the same as doing a video pass through without degrading the signal from the oppo ???


Yes, so long as you have the OPPO and the D2 set to 1080p output and with Deep Color OFF, and with default picture adjustment settings in the D2, the video will got through the original D2 unmolested.
--Bob


----------



## whitecamaross

Bob,
when you say 'original settings', can you elaborate what these are on the D2 and on the oppo? you had me do rgb level on the oppo and i touched the settings all over on the d2..


----------



## AVfile

He's talking about the video settings when you press and hold '7' to get into the video processor setup (see the manual) on the D2. Not sure why you would touch these if you are trying to be a purist. Have you even been in that menu? It stores separate settings for each input, so just go to one of the inputs you haven't molested yet and note the defaults if you need them. 

This is a reference grade processor, on the market for many years. If it was degrading video signals people would have noticed by now. You need to trust us 

As for other settings on the D2 and Oppo we've already gone over that, Bob and I.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

whitecamaross said:


> Bob,
> when you say 'original settings', can you elaborate what these are on the D2 and on the oppo? you had me do rgb level on the oppo and i touched the settings all over on the d2..


Factory Default settings for the D2 can be seen in the menu pictures in the User Manual.

Alternatively, Save User Settings, Reload Factory Defaults, poke and around and jot down the default settings, Load Saved User Settings, adjust as necessary.

Primarily you are interested in the Settings in the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" key). These settings are remembered "per input", so adjust as needed for any Setup > Source Setup which happens to use the video feed from the OPPO.

For the OPPO, Setup > Video Setup > Picture Adjustments have "0" as their default value. The OPPO puts out "reference level" video on HDMI when those are all left at their factory default (0) values.

Obviously if you want to view with Darbee processing turned on in the OPPO then that will not be at its default (Off) setting.
--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

OK folks, I'm stumped...


I have Dolby volume ON but the commercials on TV are still louder than standard program material. I know its ON because if I turn it OFF, the overall volume goes down.


What else should I do to tone down commercials using DV?


----------



## thestewman

dmusoke said:


> OK folks, I'm stumped...
> 
> 
> I have Dolby volume ON but the commercials on TV are still louder than standard program material. I know its ON because if I turn it OFF, the overall volume goes down.
> 
> 
> What else should I do to tone down commercials using DV?


You have to suffer with it unless you use the volume control or muting.
There was a was or rule passed by the FCC recently and all tv stations will have to reduce the level of their commercials soon


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Dolby Volume raises Volume for softer content rather than lowering volume for louder content.

So turn Dolby Volume ON and set Volume as you like it for the loudest content you are playing -- commercials in your case. Depending on the Level setting you've chosen, lower volume portions of the content will be increased to be more audible. Note that the change is not instantaneous, so if you have a higher Level set it may take a few seconds for the lower volume content to adjust.
--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

I recently purchased a Microsoft Surface Pro 3 w/ Windows 8. Does ARC on a D2v support this yet? I see at the Anthem website that Windows 7 is supported. Anyone have info on Windows 8 being supported now or in the future? Nick?


----------



## CharlieU

Kensmith48 said:


> I recently purchased a Microsoft Surface Pro 3 w/ Windows 8. Does ARC on a D2v support this yet? I see at the Anthem website that Windows 7 is supported. Anyone have info on Windows 8 being supported now or in the future? Nick?


I use a Surface Pro 1 with ARC. The level on the final graphs reads low, but they look the same as the ones ran on my Win 7 computer and there is no difference in the volume level on my AVM-50v. Sometimes transferring the ARC calculations to the prepro does go really slow. It could be the USB 3 hub I use though. I keep meaning to try a USB 2 hub, but haven't bothered to dig it out of my parts box.


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks for the info. I think I'll keep using my old Gateway laptop with Vista until Anthem makes the upgrade.


----------



## dmusoke

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Dolby Volume raises Volume for softer content rather than lowering volume for louder content.
> 
> So turn Dolby Volume ON and set Volume as you like it for the loudest content you are playing -- commercials in your case. Depending on the Level setting you've chosen, lower volume portions of the content will be increased to be more audible. Note that the change is not instantaneous, so if you have a higher Level set it may take a few seconds for the lower volume content to adjust.
> --Bob


Thanks Bob and sorry for the late response. I checked the Dolby site and it says it shouldn't matter whether the content it louder or softer than previous content. It claims to just set the level setting and DV will take care of the rest to equalize the volume based on human psychoacoustic models of hearing.


I'll play with the various DV options to see which one works...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yeah. Theory vs. practice. Try it the way I suggested and see if it does the trick for you.
--Bob


----------



## dbphd

I realize this thread seems moribund, but I'll ask anyway:

Has anyone compared the sound quality of analog direct from an Oppo 105 to that of an Oppo 105 passed via HDMI though an Anthem D2 or D2V? Is it superior going through the Anthem, just different, or is there no audible difference?

db


----------



## thestewman

dbphd said:


> I realize this thread seems moribund, but I'll ask anyway:
> 
> Has anyone compared the sound quality of analog direct from an Oppo 105 to that of an Oppo 105 passed via HDMI though an Anthem D2 or D2V? Is it superior going through the Anthem, just different, or is there no audible difference?
> 
> db


mor·i·bund
ˈmôrəˌbənd/Submit
adjective
(of a person) at the point of death.
synonyms:	dying, expiring, terminal, on one's deathbed, near death, at death's door, not long for this world
"the patient was moribund"
antonyms:	thriving, recovering
(of a thing) in terminal decline; lacking vitality or vigor.
"the moribund commercial property market"
synonyms:	declining, in decline, waning, dying, stagnating, stagnant, crumbling, on its last legs
"the moribund shipbuilding industry"

You have to be kidding ? This forum ? Not in your lifetime.

Give us more information on your sources and your setup.
There are significant differences when playing back different sources


----------



## dbphd

thestewman said:


> mor·i·bund
> ˈmôrəˌbənd/Submit
> 
> You have to be kidding ? This forum ? Not in your lifetime.
> 
> Give us more information on your sources and your setup.
> There are significant differences when playing back different sources


I misread the calendar of the thread, sorry.

The sources I propose to connect to a D2V via HDMI are an Oppo 105 and Sony XA5400ES. The D2V would connect to Proceed HPA-2, HPA-3, and Amp-2 amps that drive KEF Reference 107/2 mains and 102 surrounds. It would also connect to a pair of Velodyne HGS-15 subs. This setup would be aimed at surround.

For stereo, I use an Ayre C-5xeMP and Thorens TD-124 with Ortofon SME 30H cartridge through a Parasound JC-3 phono stage to a JC-2 preamp to the Proceed amps. A Goldpoint switch would be used to select the D2V or JC-2.

db


----------



## thestewman

dbphd said:


> I misread the calendar of the thread, sorry.
> 
> The sources I propose to connect to a D2V via HDMI are an Oppo 105 and Sony XA5400ES. The D2V would connect to Proceed HPA-2, HPA-3, and Amp-2 amps that drive KEF Reference 107/2 mains and 102 surrounds. It would also connect to a pair of Velodyne HGS-15 subs. This setup would be aimed at surround.
> 
> For stereo, I use an Ayre C-5xeMP and Thorens TD-124 with Ortofon SME 30H cartridge through a Parasound JC-3 phono stage to a JC-2 preamp to the Proceed amps. A Goldpoint switch would be used to select the D2V or JC-2.
> 
> db


A very commendable audiophile equipment setup.
I can assure you from experience passing an analog audio signal from the OPPO 105 via analog to the D2v and using analog direct sounds quite a bit better than using HDMI from the OPPO. I have not been able to discern much of a difference when using the D2v as the preamp and analog direct for an analog source. Different setups can and do influence the sound stage, noise and sound character.
Anthem has stated there is nothing in the circuit to interfere or influence the sound except the op amps used for the volume control.
Another feature you might someday utilize would be to use the OPPO as a DAC for DSD input and play either HiRez PCM or DSD files. 
In my system PCM or DSD exceeds anything I ever heard on any CD player even some state of the art CD players costing tens of thousands of dollars.


I needed a way to bypass the D2v and play analog surround signals and currently use a Parasound P7 to switch from the D2v to play DSD or PCM analog surround. 
I gave up looking for my first choice for a surround preamp the Audio Research MP1
I am interested in hearing your experience with the Goldpoint switch and what Goldpoint selector switch are you utilizing ? 
That is an option I did not realize existed and may give me an other option.


----------



## dbphd

thestewman said:


> I am interested in hearing your experience with the Goldpoint switch and what Goldpoint selector switch are you utilizing ?
> That is an option I did not realize existed and may give me an other option.


I ordered the 2 XLR in 1 XLR out switch, but have yet to receive it. Abe on the Oppo 105 thread of AVS uses a Goldpoint RCA switch, and claims it's acoustic transparent. I trust his observations. Others whose posts I haven't calibrated as well say the same thing. The cost delivered is well over $400. I get the impression that Goldpoint is the gold standard of such switches.

db


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ With either a D2 or D2v you should also plan on experimenting with Anthem Room Correction. You may very well find out that gives you better sound unless your listening room is already acoustically treated.

If you do find ARC improves things (which is often the case), then HDMI LPCM or HDMI Bitstream audio into the Anthem is usually the way to go. The Anthem will re-digitize Analog audio input if you set that for processing via ARC so you can use the Analog input if you prefer. But generally keeping the audio in the digital domain until all processing is done is the way to go. Also the HDMI input on the D2v (but not the D2) can accept 7.1 channel input, whereas the Analog input on both the D2 and D2v is limited to 5.1.
--Bob


----------



## Kris Deering

dbphd said:


> I misread the calendar of the thread, sorry.
> 
> The sources I propose to connect to a D2V via HDMI are an Oppo 105 and Sony XA5400ES. The D2V would connect to Proceed HPA-2, HPA-3, and Amp-2 amps that drive KEF Reference 107/2 mains and 102 surrounds. It would also connect to a pair of Velodyne HGS-15 subs. This setup would be aimed at surround.
> 
> For stereo, I use an Ayre C-5xeMP and Thorens TD-124 with Ortofon SME 30H cartridge through a Parasound JC-3 phono stage to a JC-2 preamp to the Proceed amps. A Goldpoint switch would be used to select the D2V or JC-2.
> 
> db


Does your JC-2 have the home theater bypass?? It would say BP next to JC-2. If so, you can use that and not have to deal with the goldpoint switch.

Also, I've owned an Ayre K-5xeMP and Parasound JC-2 preamp and when I did extensive listening tests between them and the D2V as an analog pre I could not detect any performance benefits to the Ayre or the Parasound. You might consider trying the same thing, the Anthem is a fantastic analog preamp in direct mode. I too use a JC-3 phono preamp with my VPI Traveller turntable with Lyra Kleos cartridge.


----------



## dbphd

Kris Deering said:


> Does your JC-2 have the home theater bypass?? It would say BP next to JC-2. If so, you can use that and not have to deal with the goldpoint switch.


Kris,

I do have a JC-2 BP. Stereo from the Oppo 105 goes through the JC-2 BP, surround directly to Proceed amps. I plan to use the Goldpoint to add another XLR input. I've compared the analog connection of the Oppo 105 to the JC-2 via XLR and RCA. The JC-2 pads the XLR input so it makes comparison easy. I can't hear a difference. IIRC, there is an XLR-RCA difference with my Sony XA5400ES, so it and the JC-3 will share an XLR input through the Goldpoint; the other input will be devoted to the Ayre.

Do you have any experience with Modwright and the Oppo?

db


----------



## Kris Deering

dbphd said:


> Kris,
> 
> I do have a JC-2 BP. Stereo from the Oppo 105 goes through the JC-2 BP, surround directly to Proceed amps. I plan to use the Goldpoint to add another XLR input. I've compared the analog connection of the Oppo 105 to the JC-2 via XLR and RCA. The JC-2 pads the XLR input so it makes comparison easy. I can't hear a difference. IIRC, there is an XLR-RCA difference with my Sony XA5400ES, so it and the JC-3 will share an XLR input through the Goldpoint; the other input will be devoted to the Ayre.
> 
> Do you have any experience with Modwright and the Oppo?
> 
> db


No experience with the Modwright. I don't use XLR from the JC-3 since my table doesn't have XLR either. I just keep it RCA all the way thru (runs are only a meter anyways). You should do a comparison of the JC-2 to the Anthem. Use the RCA of the Oppo to the JC-2 and the XLR to the Anthem. Level match and done.


----------



## dbphd

Kris Deering said:


> You should do a comparison of the JC-2 to the Anthem. Use the RCA of the Oppo to the JC-2 and the XLR to the Anthem. Level match and done.


I don't have an Anthem yet.


----------



## rockychan

I have a D2V 3D. I want to ask a few questions. 1) Do HDMI 2 output can output the on screen display? Any configuration to set? 2) I found that when I hold the SUB-LFE button on the remote control, it can enter in the menu. Is it normal?
Thanks!


----------



## TJG55

RC
#2 ......yes.
TJG55


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ #1 -- No. The character generator for the on-screen text over HDMI, such as Volume info, only operates on the Main (HDMI 1) output.
--Bob


----------



## rockychan

That's mean both HDMI output can display the menu page, but only HDMI 1 can display the character, such as Volume info! Is it right?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Correct. You'll also lose the on-screen display on HDMI 1 when you set a Setup > Source Setup to THROUGH for Video Configuration, as when passing 3D video through the D2v/3D.
--Bob


----------



## RIppolito

*Best way to stream high-definition audio files to AVM 50*

Good people,

I have the AVM 50, ARC option added, and all is well. I have recently been experimenting with high-definition audio files on my mac, and would like to try them on the Anthem. The problem is that I don't have a good way to get them there.

Does anyone have a recommendation for either a) mac software, or b) a streaming device that will enable me to play those files? Or, is there a forum in the vast AVS forum universe where different alternatives are discussed?

Thank you in advance,
Ron


----------



## RobDec

Hi 
Ive been enjoying my AVM50v 3d, but have come across a couple of problems

1) I had ARC installed but I really cant tell that much of a difference. Before ARC I put the speaker distances in, And set everything to 75db. Also my crossovers set to THX 80. The person doing the installation set I don't hear a difference because of the acoustics. My system is in the basement with carpeting, paneling, and a drop ceiling.

2) Ive also noticed that my sub levels change. 

Any help would be appreciated

Rob


----------



## Thxtheater

RIppolito said:


> Good people,
> 
> I have the AVM 50, ARC option added, and all is well. I have recently been experimenting with high-definition audio files on my mac, and would like to try them on the Anthem. The problem is that I don't have a good way to get them there.
> 
> Does anyone have a recommendation for either a) mac software, or b) a streaming device that will enable me to play those files? Or, is there a forum in the vast AVS forum universe where different alternatives are discussed?
> 
> Thank you in advance,
> Ron


Ron,

Getting hires music from your Mac is easy however can you please give more info? For example which Mac model do you have and what are the bitrates of the files you have?

On the Mac you will also need to change the output audio rate in the MIDI app located in the utilities folder. So for example if you are playing a 96k file you need to change the output rate to 96k. 

If you have a Mac with HDMI like the Mac mini you can just use that output directly to the Anthem.


----------



## RIppolito

Thxtheater,

I have an iMac with plenty of RAM for my music library. I am going with 88K / 24 bit music files, because the AVM 50 won't go any higher.

My computer is two rooms away from my Anthem...is there a maximum recommended length for HDMI cables? It would greatly help me to know that, before I drill a hole in the floor.

Are there any blu-ray players that can received streamed high-definition music across a network? I have an old PS3 on my network, but I have not been able to get these files streamed over to it without getting down-converted. Does anyone know of a streamer of this sort?

Thanks,
Ron


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Hi
> Ive been enjoying my AVM50v 3d, but have come across a couple of problems
> 
> 1) I had ARC installed but I really cant tell that much of a difference. Before ARC I put the speaker distances in, And set everything to 75db. Also my crossovers set to THX 80. The person doing the installation set I don't hear a difference because of the acoustics. My system is in the basement with carpeting, paneling, and a drop ceiling.
> 
> 2) Ive also noticed that my sub levels change.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated
> 
> Rob


Rob

This appears troublesome. " my crossovers set to THX 80 ".
You should not be using THX and certainly are defeating ARC if you are setting the crossovers.

I suggest you read the ARC setup instructions again.

Reset everything back to their default settings and set your sub to bypass its internal crossover or the highest setting it allows. Then rerun ARC

You should make sure the sources you are listening to are not set up for Analog Direct as that does not use ARC.
Make sure you *turn on EQ* for each of the sources in setup to enable ARC to run.
You can post the charts here.
Be sure to include the targets.
The forum members have an incredible amount of expertise reading the charts 
Good Luck


----------



## thestewman

RIppolito said:


> Thxtheater,
> 
> I have an iMac with plenty of RAM for my music library. I am going with 88K / 24 bit music files, because the AVM 50 won't go any higher.
> 
> My computer is two rooms away from my Anthem...is there a maximum recommended length for HDMI cables? It would greatly help me to know that, before I drill a hole in the floor.
> 
> Are there any blu-ray players that can received streamed high-definition music across a network? I have an old PS3 on my network, but I have not been able to get these files streamed over to it without getting down-converted. Does anyone know of a streamer of this sort?
> 
> Thanks,
> Ron


Attempting to stream anything over HDMI at that distance maybe troublesome without additional added equipment.

Maybe try a different technique than playing them on the iMac and then streaming them to your Anthem 2 rooms away.
Might be easier to have the music files stored on your iMac and then use the iMac as a network source for your music files.
There are numerous devices that will access your files via a network connection then decode and send them to the Anthem.
Sony and OPPO are two economically acquirable I think of immediately. At 88/24 you can use coaxial or optical cables instead of HDMI.
A good source of info is the Computer Audiophile Forum.


----------



## RobDec

Thanks thestewman
My crossovers at THX80 were setup before I put ARC in. They are different after ARC. The subwoofer DB levels are something I noticed a couple of days ago. As I installed ARC a couple of weeks ago.
Do you think I should I should reset the AVM50v with the switch in back? If so would this wipe out all my settings?
Sorry I wasn't more specific.
Rob


----------



## rsinclair

*d2v longer handles bitstreaming from Xbox One*

My d2v (with 3D upgrade) stopped being able to handle bitstreamed audio output from my Xbox One literally overnight.

In the Xbox One interface, I have always had both "HDMI audio" and "Optical audio" set to "Bitstream out" so the d2v will do the decoding. The HDMI audio is sent to my home theater speakers, and I have the Optical audio sent to some wireless headphones simultaneously. Works great for when I need to switch to headphones for WAF; just Mute the d2v which is sending audio to my speakers, and I can don the headphones and keep playing seamlessly.

Everything has been working fine. Went to bed one night after playing, then the next morning the audio on my Xbox One was mysteriously silent. Not muted, volume is up, input is correct (can see Xbox One video), other inputs on d2v work fine. I made _no_ changes to the d2v setup or the Xbox One setup at all, it just stopped working.

However, in the Xbox One interface, if I change "HDMI audio" from "Bitstream out" to "5.1 uncompressed" and "Optical audio" from "Bitstream out" to "Stereo uncompressed", which presumably is having the Xbox One do the decoding before sending it to the d2v, I get sound back.

It seems like the d2v just "forgot" how to handle bit streamed audio from the Xbox One literally overnight.

I have of course rebooted both the Xbox One and d2v numerous times, but the results are the same.

Any ideas what could have happened here, and how to fix?

Thanks,
-R

Edit: I also have a PS4 connected to the d2v, and the d2v can handle any of the audio output modes from the PS4 (Linear PCM, Bitstream (Dolby) and Bitstream (DTS) just fine. So this seems like something specific to Xbox One.


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Thanks thestewman
> My crossovers at THX80 were setup before I put ARC in. They are different after ARC. The subwoofer DB levels are something I noticed a couple of days ago. As I installed ARC a couple of weeks ago.
> Do you think I should I should reset the AVM50v with the switch in back? If so would this wipe out all my settings?
> Sorry I wasn't more specific.
> Rob


Rob

There is no rear reset switch or button. 
Don't know what you might be referencing except the Master AC switch.

I admit there is a lack of a good ARC instruction manual and finding things on this forum is exasperating.

You are going to have to redo ARC starting from the sound level setup and sub setup.
Do not manually adjust any crossover settings. Let ARC do the work.
Do every step as you run ARC.
After running ARC go into setup and make sure your digital sources have EQ set to ON.
It's not difficult and if your unsure ask the forum and someone will give you a prompt and correct answer.

Post your charts and targets here on the forum for assessment by the forum members.


----------



## RobDec

Thanks again thestewman
Do you think redoing the ARC will clear up the changing DB levels for my subwoofer?

Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Thanks again thestewman
> Do you think redoing the ARC will clear up the changing DB levels for my subwoofer?
> 
> Rob


Rerun ARC.
Then submit your charts and targets. 
If the changing sub levels persist we will try to help you discover why.
By the way what sub are you using ?


----------



## RobDec

thestewman said:


> Rerun ARC.
> Then submit your charts and targets.
> If the changing sub levels persist we will try to help you discover why.
> By the way what sub are you using ?


I have a Velodyne DD15 (not the plus). Its about 10 years old. I have just noticed at times there is no sound from the woofer. Im watching Nascar too which is usually loaded with heavy bass.
That might be the problem or the balanced cabling too. 

Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> I have a Velodyne DD15 (not the plus). Its about 10 years old. I have just noticed at times there is no sound from the woofer. Im watching Nascar too which is usually loaded with heavy bass.
> That might be the problem or the balanced cabling too.
> 
> Rob


Hard to assess based on yourinformation

Many times the tv station, cable co or sat service drop channels and go from one codec to another.
When you rerun ARC the multiple sweep signals sent to the sub should test for consistency etc.


----------



## ninja12

RobDec said:


> I have a Velodyne DD15 (not the plus). Its about 10 years old. I have just noticed at times there is no sound from the woofer. Im watching Nascar too which is usually loaded with heavy bass.
> That might be the problem or the balanced cabling too.
> 
> Rob


Make sure you disable the sub's low pass crossover frequency and slope before you rerun ARC. You can do this by pressing select and reset. By doing this, your D2v will take care of all of the Bass Management which is what you want to happen.


----------



## RobDec

ninja12 said:


> Make sure you disable the sub's low pass crossover frequency and slope before you rerun ARC. You can do this by pressing select and reset. By doing this, your D2v will take care of all of the Bass Management which is what you want to happen.


 Thanks ninja
Before I had ARC calibrated I set the SW to EQ Defeat. I hope this does the trick.
thestewman you were right about cable, dish etc. I switched to another station and the bass was fine.
I don't have a laptop so I cant do the ARC. I will ask a friend for his.
Any other info would be welcomed.

Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RobDec said:


> I have a Velodyne DD15 (not the plus). Its about 10 years old. I have just noticed at times there is no sound from the woofer. Im watching Nascar too which is usually loaded with heavy bass.
> That might be the problem or the balanced cabling too.
> 
> Rob


Buy a shorty Y-splitter and feed the Sub signal into BOTH of the inputs of your Velodyne. That doubles the volume the Velodyne sees and pretty much guarantees it will come out of stand-by automatically, when it is supposed to.

Note that you will need to re-adjust the power-on Volume of the Velodyne accordingly, and then re-run your ARC setup.

If you are comparing RCA vs XLR signal levels, be advised that by design XLR is +6dB hotter. Meaning that the speaker level will be lowered by ARC to compensate. If the XLR is running through an amp, the amp may have a switch setting to attenuate the XLR by 6dB.
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Bob Pariseau said:


> Buy a shorty Y-splitter and feed the Sub signal into BOTH of the inputs of your Velodyne. That doubles the volume the Velodyne sees and pretty much guarantees it will come out of stand-by automatically, when it is supposed to.
> 
> Note that you will need to re-adjust the power-on Volume of the Velodyne accordingly, and then re-run your ARC setup.
> 
> If you are comparing RCA vs XLR signal levels, be advised that by design XLR is +6dB hotter. Meaning that the speaker level will be lowered by ARC to compensate. If the XLR is running through an amp, the amp may have a switch setting to attenuate the XLR by 6dB.
> --Bob


 Thanks Bob
The Velodyne DD15 has only 1 balanced input. It also has a mic balanced input, but I don't think that will work. Am I missing something? Again much appreciated.

Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

No. I was talking about its L/R RCA Inputs. 
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Bob Pariseau said:


> No. I was talking about its L/R RCA Inputs.
> --Bob


 HI Bob!
Do you think redoing the ARC will stop the sub db levels for changing? And should the difference be Day and Night when turning the EQ on and off. I know each system is different, so can the difference be subtle. Also sometimes I do hear a slight difference but it might be placebo.

Rob


----------



## rockychan

Thanks! Bob!
Actually, my D2v 3D purchase a year ago, the firmware is 3.09.  I find that rca sub 1 pre-out have a good performance and a higher sound pressure than rca sub 2 significiantly. Anyone have the same issue.
Dealer told me to update the firmware 3.10 to see if it can solve the problem. After update the firmware, some problem have occur,such as 1) 5.1 source will automatically change to 7.1 even I set all the present mode to NONE.  2) it can't show the setup menu in the TV while holding the menu bottom.  
The dealer in Hong Kong can't provide me any solution. 
Any suggestion? Can I reinstall 3.09? Is it ok? I don't know the software on the official web is compatible with my D2V 3D! Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RobDec said:


> HI Bob!
> Do you think redoing the ARC will stop the sub db levels for changing? And should the difference be Day and Night when turning the EQ on and off. I know each system is different, so can the difference be subtle. Also sometimes I do hear a slight difference but it might be placebo.
> 
> Rob


I don't know what you mean by the Sub levels changing. The Sub levels (in Setup) should not change after you have Uploaded any given ARC solution. If you are getting different Sub levels from the ARC solution than what you think you should get based on a manual (non ARC) setup, my recommendation is that you trust what ARC has produced. Its answer is more accurate than what you yourself can do with an SPL meter for example.

Keep in mind that after Uploading an ARC solution you need to Save User and/or Installer Settings to capture those results in those memories. Otherwise, if you restore from Saved User or Installer Settings you will wipe out the results ARC has Uploaded.

Screen Capture your ARC results charts, including the Measure, Target, and Calculated curves, and also your ARC Targets Window and then post them here. Folks can't tell you anything about what you should be hearing without seeing those. If your room does not need much correction then of course the difference with ARC will be less. The charts will show that.
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

rockychan said:


> Thanks! Bob!
> Actually, my D2v 3D purchase a year ago, the firmware is 3.09.  I find that rca sub 1 pre-out have a good performance and a higher sound pressure than rca sub 2 significiantly. Anyone have the same issue.
> Dealer told me to update the firmware 3.10 to see if it can solve the problem. After update the firmware, some problem have occur,such as 1) 5.1 source will automatically change to 7.1 even I set all the present mode to NONE.  2) it can't show the setup menu in the TV while holding the menu bottom.
> The dealer in Hong Kong can't provide me any solution.
> Any suggestion? Can I reinstall 3.09? Is it ok? I don't know the software on the official web is compatible with my D2V 3D! Thanks!


You can re-install 3.09 but you should not. Firmware 3.10 is the correct firmware for a D2v/3D.

The two RCA Sub outputs should have IDENTICAL signals. If you are certain that is not the case -- tested with the same cable into the same Sub -- then your D2v/3D needs hardware service. Service for a unit purchased in Hong Kong is likely done through Anthem's Distributor for Hong Kong. Your dealer should know how to get you in touch with them. You can also get this info from Anthem Support in Canada. It may even be on the International Dealers locator portion of their web site.

Your 5.1 vs. 7.1 output is likely a misunderstanding of how the D2v/3D works, but that can be sorted out after you figure out if the hardware needs service.

If the Setup menu fails to appear, power cycle the D2v/3D and try again. If it STILL fails to appear (Press and Hold the MENU button for about 3 seconds), then, again, your hardware likely needs service. The Setup menu is implemented as an internally generated S-Video Source, and so it is Analog video that needs to be digitized for display, and that's a portion of the hardware that you don't normally use if you have only HDMI Source devices.

Before sending the player in for service it would be wise to do a re-install of v3.10 firmware (a fresh copy downloaded from Anthem), and do a Reload Factory Defaults, and see if the problems still exists when you make only the minimal MANUAL changes in Setup necessary to show the problem. That eliminates the chance that there might be some sort of corruption in your older Setup settings. There is only one firmware for the D2v/3D that works for both the North America and overseas hardware.
--Bob


----------



## AVfile

rsinclair said:


> My d2v (with 3D upgrade) stopped being able to handle bitstreamed audio output from my Xbox One literally overnight.
> 
> In the Xbox One interface, I have always had both "HDMI audio" and "Optical audio" set to "Bitstream out" so the d2v will do the decoding. The HDMI audio is sent to my home theater speakers, and I have the Optical audio sent to some wireless headphones simultaneously. Works great for when I need to switch to headphones for WAF; just Mute the d2v which is sending audio to my speakers, and I can don the headphones and keep playing seamlessly.
> 
> Everything has been working fine. Went to bed one night after playing, then the next morning the audio on my Xbox One was mysteriously silent. Not muted, volume is up, input is correct (can see Xbox One video), other inputs on d2v work fine. I made _no_ changes to the d2v setup or the Xbox One setup at all, it just stopped working.
> 
> However, in the Xbox One interface, if I change "HDMI audio" from "Bitstream out" to "5.1 uncompressed" and "Optical audio" from "Bitstream out" to "Stereo uncompressed", which presumably is having the Xbox One do the decoding before sending it to the d2v, I get sound back.
> 
> It seems like the d2v just "forgot" how to handle bit streamed audio from the Xbox One literally overnight.
> 
> I have of course rebooted both the Xbox One and d2v numerous times, but the results are the same.
> 
> Any ideas what could have happened here, and how to fix?
> 
> Thanks,
> -R
> 
> Edit: I also have a PS4 connected to the d2v, and the d2v can handle any of the audio output modes from the PS4 (Linear PCM, Bitstream (Dolby) and Bitstream (DTS) just fine. So this seems like something specific to Xbox One.



What are your Video Output settings for each Source? Is the TV/display on or off when the input is selected?

Setup another input (source setup) for your Xbox with Video Output set to something other than THROUGH. This should work. Then switch back to the other source and my guess is it will be working.


----------



## dreamhomecinema

*Actually, my D2v 3D purchase a year ago, the firmware is 3.09. I find that rca sub 1*

Actually, my D2v 3D purchase a year ago, the firmware is 3.09. I find that rca sub 1 pre-out have a good performance and a higher sound pressure than rca sub 2 significiantly. Anyone have the same issue.
Dealer told me to update the firmware 3.10 to see if it can solve the problem. After update the firmware, some problem have occur,such as 1) 5.1 source will automatically change to 7.1 even I set all the present mode to NONE. 2) it can't show the setup menu in the TV while holding the menu bottom. 
The dealer in Hong Kong can't provide me any solution. 
Any suggestion? Can I reinstall 3.09? Is it ok? I don't know the software on the official web is compatible with my D2V 3D! Thanks! 

Like Its COMON PROBLEM in D2V 3d 5.1 source will automatically change to 7.1 i also somany times told in this forum but company no have any perfect and corect answer


----------



## AVfile

^ why wouldn't you want all 7 speakers to be used? It is the dts spec by the way.


----------



## dreamhomecinema

Iam using 7 speakers but 5.1 is going to mix in seven speaker thats not correct way. when we use 7.1 signal it must automatic activation is corect way "its firmware 3.10 problen when using 3.09 its a perfectly right


----------



## AVfile

Look at the DTS speaker configurations on the web. It has to do with the degrees of separation between the sides and rears, which is different for 5.1 and 7.1. With a proper 7.1 setup, a 5.1 signal needs some blending of the sides and rears to achieve the illusion of a proper 5.1 setup.


----------



## rockychan

I found that the sound is downgraded significantly when 5.1 source automatic change to 7.1. I try to set the rear channel to NONE under the speaker configuration. It seem that the rear channel sound is mix to the surround channel.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

rockychan said:


> I found that the sound is downgraded significantly when 5.1 source automatic change to 7.1. I try to set the rear channel to NONE under the speaker configuration. It seem that the rear channel sound is mix to the surround channel.


Have you done your ARC setup for 7.1 speakers? Do the ARC charts show that your Rear speakers are broken?

As I said above, you should be using the v3.10 firmware if you have a D2v/3D. That firmware is certified by DTS for how it processes DTS-HD MA 5.1 tracks in a 7.1 speaker configuration. If you find the audio is downgraded due to DTS mapping a portion of the Side Surround content into the Rears in that case then the answer is to figure out what's wrong with your speaker configuration.
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Hello again
I had a friend with a laptop redo ARC, like you guys said. And everything is good except the Db levels change on their own (the Db levels you change on the fly, and are OSD)
That's the only thing so far. I would sincerely appreciate any help!
Thanks Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RobDec said:


> Hello again
> I had a friend with a laptop redo ARC, like you guys said. And everything is good except the Db levels change on their own (the Db levels you change on the fly, and are OSD)
> That's the only thing so far. I would sincerely appreciate any help!
> Thanks Rob


Describe what you are doing and what you are seeing that's confusing you.

Are you attempting to adjust the "temporary" level settings for the speakers using the buttons around the arrow keys on the remote?

Those "temporary" level settings are remembered separately for each type of audio input format. If you are checking them and seeing different values from what you set, and if the current audio input format is different from what you were playing when you tried to set them, then that is "normal".
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Bob Pariseau said:


> Describe what you are doing and what you are seeing that's confusing you.
> 
> Are you attempting to adjust the "temporary" level settings for the speakers using the buttons around the arrow keys on the remote?
> 
> Those "temporary" level settings are remembered separately for each type of audio input format. If you are checking them and seeing different values from what you set, and if the current audio input format is different from what you were playing when you tried to set them, then that is "normal".
> --Bob


 Bob
I do adjust the temporary settings and about half way through they change. This happened yesterday and also today. I too thought I was using different audio input formats but today they were the same. All temporary settings went to 0.0

Thank you for your time
Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Reload Factory Defaults and see if the same thing happens while using default settings.

If so, your Anthem probably needs service as the settings memory is failing.
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Thanks Bob
Will do. One question will I lose all my user settings or can I just reload them?
Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You can Save your settings in the User or Installer Memory. But I don't know of any reason why the Temporary settings would act as you've described except possibly that what's currently in the Settings is corrupted. That's why I asked you to check with Default settings.

If the problem does NOT happen with Defaults, the good news is that your hardware is probably OK, but the bad news is your existing settings may be corrupted, which means you should recreate them manually instead of relying on the Saved version.

You need to be very clear about what I said above. If the audio format currently playing changes, it is NORMAL for the temporary settings to switch to what was last set for THAT new format. If you are correct that the audio format is NOT changing, but the settings are changing anyway, then that sounds like a hardware fault.
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Bob
They are the same.
Rob


----------



## AVfile

can you give us an example of what levels are changing and what the values are changing from/to?


----------



## RobDec

AVfile said:


> can you give us an example of what levels are changing and what the values are changing from/to?


 Yesterday just the Sub levels from +3.o to 0.0 also +3.0 to -3.0. Today all levels went to 0.0
Rob


----------



## AVfile

So half way through a program trim levels pop up on the display and jump by 3dB?! Try leaving them all at zero and see if they change. If you are using ARC you shouldn't need to adjust them anyway (unless you are playing poorly mastered material).

Save your user settings. Then load factory defaults followed by load user settings is a sure way to clear out the trims. They are not saved as part of the user settings.


----------



## RobDec

Thanks Avfile 
The levels don't pop on the screen. I have to use the buttons. I will try your recomenfdtions tomorrow with my fingers crossed
Rob


----------



## rockychan

Bob Pariseau said:


> Have you done your ARC setup for 7.1 speakers? Do the ARC charts show that your Rear speakers are broken?
> 
> As I said above, you should be using the v3.10 firmware if you have a D2v/3D. That firmware is certified by DTS for how it processes DTS-HD MA 5.1 tracks in a 7.1 speaker configuration. If you find the audio is downgraded due to DTS mapping a portion of the Side Surround content into the Rears in that case then the answer is to figure out what's wrong with your speaker configuration.
> --Bob


Yes, I have done the ARC for 7.1 speakers. But the graph alway show the front left, front right, surround left and surround right channel. Sometimes it will show all the channels including rear channels.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Screen capture your ARC charts and Targets window and post them here. All 7.1 speakers should show (if you scroll down). If not, then you've likely made a simple mistake in your ARC setup. 

From the charts, we may be able to see if your Rear speakers have a problem. 
--Bob


----------



## gerard1meehan

*Some help with my final setup*

Greetings,

I am hoping a few of you folks could point me in the right direction. I have owned my D2v/3d for some time now and have had a few posts and replies on our little forum. After 2 years, 1 month, and 4 days I finally completed my home theater project. It was only 1+ year over my projected time line, and my budget went out the window in the 5th month. 

That said I have a 16.5 wide by 27.5 long room with 8 ft ceiling. I have one window at the back of the room. (pictures atatched)

Equipment:
Pre pro D2v (running 2.10)

Sources:
Oppo 103 
Clear Audio Turntable with CONCERTO V2i cartage
Saunders Audio Phono stage
Sonos
Otari Reel to Reel
Direct TV

Speakers:

Paradigm Signature for all

S8 v2 right and left front
C5 v3 Center
ADP3’s for all surrounds (7.1)
Sub1 

Amplification:

Anthem Statement p5 runs the center and 4 surrounds
One Anthem Statement p2 powers left front
One Anthem Statement p2 powers right front

Display:

Panasonic ZT60 (fully set up for future projector)


So I have run a few ARC setups and I am not too happy with the sound. I have had this system in other rooms while this was being built and I was happier with the sound. Of course I do not have my Arch results to post right now, but I think I am starting out wrong. I have never run the bas kit for the Sub and only have used ARC to correct. I have seen post that state that I should run that first ten ARC. Is that Correct?

I feel the room is very booming I do need some absorbers and diffusers but I believe my speaker placement is off as well.

Looking for a starting point form the peanut gallery


----------



## Kris Deering

gerard1meehan said:


> Greetings,
> 
> I am hoping a few of you folks could point me in the right direction. I have owned my D2v/3d for some time now and have had a few posts and replies on our little forum. After 2 years, 1 month, and 4 days I finally completed my home theater project. It was only 1+ year over my projected time line, and my budget went out the window in the 5th month.
> 
> That said I have a 16.5 wide by 27.5 long room with 8 ft ceiling. I have one window at the back of the room. (pictures atatched)
> 
> Equipment:
> Pre pro D2v (running 2.10)
> 
> Sources:
> Oppo 103
> Clear Audio Turntable with CONCERTO V2i cartage
> Saunders Audio Phono stage
> Sonos
> Otari Reel to Reel
> Direct TV
> 
> Speakers:
> 
> Paradigm Signature for all
> 
> S8 v2 right and left front
> C5 v3 Center
> ADP3’s for all surrounds (7.1)
> Sub1
> 
> Amplification:
> 
> Anthem Statement p5 runs the center and 4 surrounds
> One Anthem Statement p2 powers left front
> One Anthem Statement p2 powers right front
> 
> Display:
> 
> Panasonic ZT60 (fully set up for future projector)
> 
> 
> So I have run a few ARC setups and I am not too happy with the sound. I have had this system in other rooms while this was being built and I was happier with the sound. Of course I do not have my Arch results to post right now, but I think I am starting out wrong. I have never run the bas kit for the Sub and only have used ARC to correct. I have seen post that state that I should run that first ten ARC. Is that Correct?
> 
> I feel the room is very booming I do need some absorbers and diffusers but I believe my speaker placement is off as well.
> 
> Looking for a starting point form the peanut gallery


That room is just slight longer than mine but the rest of the dimensions are similar. I had this same speaker configuration (minus that sub) for a while and it sounded fantastic. That room should definitely get some acoustic treatments in it, both bass traps and treatments at the main reflection points at a minimum. One Sub1 is not going to do a very good job with that size of room. It has decent output, but you would want multiple subs to smooth the response and to cut down the load on the Sub 1 so you're not driving into distortion trying to fill that room. While you're only using 1 sub, I would use the quick measure function to try and find the best place for that sub, where you have it in the pictures is probably not it. I would start with the corners or do the crawl test (quick measure would still be the best). 

Once you've found the best place for the sub then do the PBK cal, then ARC. Then post your results here and go from there.

Also, no offense to whoever sold you your equipment but you DEFINITELY do NOT need a dedicated P2 for each of those S8s you're running. Way overkill for that speaker. One P2 can handle the S8's with no issues at all, especially if you're engaging any type of bass management (which you should).


----------



## gerard1meehan

Kris Deering said:


> That room is just slight longer than mine but the rest of the dimensions are similar. I had this same speaker configuration (minus that sub) for a while and it sounded fantastic. That room should definitely get some acoustic treatments in it, both bass traps and treatments at the main reflection points at a minimum. One Sub1 is not going to do a very good job with that size of room. It has decent output, but you would want multiple subs to smooth the response and to cut down the load on the Sub 1 so you're not driving into distortion trying to fill that room. While you're only using 1 sub, I would use the quick measure function to try and find the best place for that sub, where you have it in the pictures is probably not it. I would start with the corners or do the crawl test (quick measure would still be the best).
> 
> Once you've found the best place for the sub then do the PBK cal, then ARC. Then post your results here and go from there.
> 
> Also, no offense to whoever sold you your equipment but you DEFINITELY do NOT need a dedicated P2 for each of those S8s you're running. Way overkill for that speaker. One P2 can handle the S8's with no issues at all, especially if you're engaging any type of bass management (which you should).


Thanks for the recommendations. Ill start on that this weekend.

BTW I went went two amps on my own. Driven the S8s both ways and although one P2 is enough I felt the two amp configuration sounded better. Also got the other P2 dirt cheap!

Arc pics to follow, other recommendations welcome


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Also, I hope that was a typo and you have the V3.10 firmware in the Anthem. You should not be running v2.10 firmware on a D2v/3D. 

While you are at it, check what version of the ARC setup app you are using on your Windows computer. It should be v3.0.2. 

If you have the wrong versions. Update and do a fresh ARC run. 
--Bob


----------



## gerard1meehan

Bob Pariseau said:


> Also, I hope that was a typo and you have the V3.10 firmware in the Anthem. You should not be running v2.10 firmware on a D2v/3D.
> 
> While you are at it, check what version of the ARC setup app you are using on your Windows computer. It should be v3.0.2.
> 
> If you have the wrong versions. Update and do a fresh ARC run.
> --Bob


Yes I had a few Typos. I am running 3.10 and the latest ARC,

Doing some further research I do believe I have my fronts too close to the side and back walls.

ARC charts to follow


----------



## thestewman

gerard1meehan said:


> Yes I had a few Typos. I am running 3.10 and the latest ARC,
> 
> Doing some further research I do believe I have my fronts too close to the side and back walls.
> 
> ARC charts to follow


And

Use a mirror to find the reflection points on the side walls. Those bare side walls have to be causing you problems.
As a starting point move the Sub 1 into the left corner before you run Anthem PBK.
Move the LF and RF speakers about 3 ft from the rear wall and 3 ft from the side walls
before you do the mirror reflection test.
Run PBK. Then set all your levels and bypass the SUb 1 crossover then Run ARC


----------



## gerard1meehan

gerard1meehan said:


> Greetings,
> 
> I am hoping a few of you folks could point me in the right direction. I have owned my D2v/3d for some time now and have had a few posts and replies on our little forum. After 2 years, 1 month, and 4 days I finally completed my home theater project. It was only 1+ year over my projected time line, and my budget went out the window in the 5th month.
> 
> That said I have a 16.5 wide by 27.5 long room with 8 ft ceiling. I have one window at the back of the room. (pictures atatched)
> 
> Equipment:
> Pre pro D2v (running 2.10)
> 
> Sources:
> Oppo 103
> Clear Audio Turntable with CONCERTO V2i cartage
> Saunders Audio Phono stage
> Sonos
> Otari Reel to Reel
> Direct TV
> 
> Speakers:
> 
> Paradigm Signature for all
> 
> S8 v2 right and left front
> C5 v3 Center
> ADP3’s for all surrounds (7.1)
> Sub1
> 
> Amplification:
> 
> Anthem Statement p5 runs the center and 4 surrounds
> One Anthem Statement p2 powers left front
> One Anthem Statement p2 powers right front
> 
> Display:
> 
> Panasonic ZT60 (fully set up for future projector)
> 
> 
> So I have run a few ARC setups and I am not too happy with the sound. I have had this system in other rooms while this was being built and I was happier with the sound. Of course I do not have my Arch results to post right now, but I think I am starting out wrong. I have never run the bas kit for the Sub and only have used ARC to correct. I have seen post that state that I should run that first ten ARC. Is that Correct?
> 
> I feel the room is very booming I do need some absorbers and diffusers but I believe my speaker placement is off as well.
> 
> Looking for a starting point form the peanut gallery


Ok,

Last evening when I got home I did maneuver the speakers and sub around. 

The front speakers are now 6.5 feet from the rear wall and 3.5 feet from the side walls.

I move the sub into the front right corner


Then I ran Arc in automatic ( forgot to run the sub correction)

See charts.


----------



## Thxtheater

gerard1meehan said:


> gerard1meehan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> I am hoping a few of you folks could point me in the right direction. I have owned my D2v/3d for some time now and have had a few posts and replies on our little forum. After 2 years, 1 month, and 4 days I finally completed my home theater project. It was only 1+ year over my projected time line, and my budget went out the window in the 5th month.
> 
> That said I have a 16.5 wide by 27.5 long room with 8 ft ceiling. I have one window at the back of the room. (pictures atatched)
> 
> Equipment:
> Pre pro D2v (running 2.10)
> 
> Sources:
> Oppo 103
> Clear Audio Turntable with CONCERTO V2i cartage
> Saunders Audio Phono stage
> Sonos
> Otari Reel to Reel
> Direct TV
> 
> Speakers:
> 
> Paradigm Signature for all
> 
> S8 v2 right and left front
> C5 v3 Center
> ADP3’s for all surrounds (7.1)
> Sub1
> 
> Amplification:
> 
> Anthem Statement p5 runs the center and 4 surrounds
> One Anthem Statement p2 powers left front
> One Anthem Statement p2 powers right front
> 
> Display:
> 
> Panasonic ZT60 (fully set up for future projector)
> 
> 
> So I have run a few ARC setups and I am not too happy with the sound. I have had this system in other rooms while this was being built and I was happier with the sound. Of course I do not have my Arch results to post right now, but I think I am starting out wrong. I have never run the bas kit for the Sub and only have used ARC to correct. I have seen post that state that I should run that first ten ARC. Is that Correct?
> 
> I feel the room is very booming I do need some absorbers and diffusers but I believe my speaker placement is off as well.
> 
> Looking for a starting point form the peanut gallery
> 
> 
> 
> Ok,
> 
> Last evening when I got home I did maneuver the speakers and sub around.
> 
> The front speakers are now 6.5 feet from the rear wall and 3.5 feet from the side walls.
> 
> I move the sub into the front right corner
> 
> 
> Then I ran Arc in automatic ( forgot to run the sub correction)
> 
> See charts.
Click to expand...

May I suggest that you do your speaker setup completely Independent of ARC? In other words nail the sound without ARC first. I think you have placement issues that have nothing to do with ARC. ARC isn't a cure-all and will greatly enhance speakers that are already properly placed in a room.


----------



## thestewman

gerard1meehan said:


> Ok,
> 
> Last evening when I got home I did maneuver the speakers and sub around.
> 
> The front speakers are now 6.5 feet from the rear wall and 3.5 feet from the side walls.
> 
> I move the sub into the front right corner
> 
> 
> Then I ran Arc in automatic ( forgot to run the sub correction)
> 
> See charts.


Not bad but you can improve this a lot. 
You need to do the mirror test for first reflections and mount something that is non reflective on the sidewalls. As you can see there is a huge rise in your left front speaker which may be caused by the first reflection.
You do not have to be 6 feet from the rear wall 3 to 3.5 is sufficient. You do want some of the rear firing sound to reach the listening position and the distance will change the timing it arrives there.
You do need to work on the integration of the sub with the front speakers.
You will notice the front speakers start to fall off dramatically at 100hz and the sub starts to fall off at 50hz.
First use Quick measure and RBK to find the best location for the sub. You are looking for the flatest response curve.
Then Run RBK.
Using RBK will lessen the loss of processing power that ARC has to use to correct the SUB.
Then use the manual feature in ARC not auto.
You should be familiar with most of ARC now.
Open The ARC program.
Click on Targets in the upper Toolbar. Then click on Advanced at the lower right
Your SUB 1 easily goes to below 20hz without a problem.
So set the Subwoofer High Pass Order to FLAT in both movie and music config
Then set the Min Subwoofer EQ to 20 in both movie and music config
Click on OK
Now rerun ARC
Again post your charts and be sure to include the Targets window

Stew


----------



## fgbaloh

*AVM 50 Upgrade*

I have an older AVM 50 that was installed in 2006. I've never done any upgrades at all. Model number in the low 130500'5. Thinking about doing the $1500 upgrade. Having said that, I don't really care about 3D. I'm also questioning whether there will be a whole new platform by the time 4K hits for real in a couple years. 

What is the community consensus? I'm really not disatisfied with it as it is now. Just not sure if the money is worth it.

Thanks in advance,

Frank


----------



## thestewman

fgbaloh said:


> I have an older AVM 50 that was installed in 2006. I've never done any upgrades at all. Model number in the low 130500'5. Thinking about doing the $1500 upgrade. Having said that, I don't really care about 3D. I'm also questioning whether there will be a whole new platform by the time 4K hits for real in a couple years.
> 
> What is the community consensus? I'm really not disatisfied with it as it is now. Just not sure if the money is worth it.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Frank


I believe the upgrade period is long gone and does not exist anymore.
Other than 3D Pass Through what would you gain ?

Upgrading the original AVM50v to 3D
Anthem offers existing AVM 50v owners the option to add 3D capability through a physical upgrade via a new dealer-installed circuit board which replaces two smaller boards for HDMI inputs 1 through 4 and HDMI output 1. This upgrade will also include a software update. Complementing the 3D switching and automatic passthrough features, the upgrade also provides the AVM 50v with video processor bypass for 2D, something useful for reference quality video content that doesn't require processing or scaling.


----------



## greyflag

thestewman said:


> I believe the upgrade period is long gone and does not exist anymore.
> Other than 3D Pass Through what would you gain ?
> 
> Upgrading the original AVM50v to 3D
> Anthem offers existing AVM 50v owners the option to add 3D capability through a physical upgrade via a new dealer-installed circuit board which replaces two smaller boards for HDMI inputs 1 through 4 and HDMI output 1. This upgrade will also include a software update. Complementing the 3D switching and automatic passthrough features, the upgrade also provides the AVM 50v with video processor bypass for 2D, something useful for reference quality video content that doesn't require processing or scaling.


I believe that the only upgrade that can be done to the original AVM50 (I have one) is ARC. This requires replacing the DSP board. I'm not sure if Anthem still offers this. I had mine done in 2009.

Glenn


----------



## gerard1meehan

thestewman said:


> Not bad but you can improve this a lot.
> You need to do the mirror test for first reflections and mount something that is non reflective on the sidewalls. As you can see there is a huge rise in your left front speaker which may be caused by the first reflection.
> You do not have to be 6 feet from the rear wall 3 to 3.5 is sufficient. You do want some of the rear firing sound to reach the listening position and the distance will change the timing it arrives there.
> You do need to work on the integration of the sub with the front speakers.
> You will notice the front speakers start to fall off dramatically at 100hz and the sub starts to fall off at 50hz.
> First use Quick measure and RBK to find the best location for the sub. You are looking for the flatest response curve.
> Then Run RBK.
> Using RBK will lessen the loss of processing power that ARC has to use to correct the SUB.
> Then use the manual feature in ARC not auto.
> You should be familiar with most of ARC now.
> Open The ARC program.
> Click on Targets in the upper Toolbar. Then click on Advanced at the lower right
> Your SUB 1 easily goes to below 20hz without a problem.
> So set the Subwoofer High Pass Order to FLAT in both movie and music config
> Then set the Min Subwoofer EQ to 20 in both movie and music config
> Click on OK
> Now rerun ARC
> Again post your charts and be sure to include the Targets window
> 
> Stew


Stew,

Thanks for the advise. 

So I moved the to fronts back a foot to 5 ft from the wall, and re-positioned the sub. Then I found the first and second reflections and added some absorbing panels. Ran the PBK, then Arc. So far so good. Happier with the results but I am sure i do need further tweeking

Charts below 

Gerard


----------



## studlygoorite

Something strange happening with my D2v, while playing Destiny on my Xbox One my center channel amp and my surrounds amps cut out due to no signal, but my D2v displays that I am still running 7.1. If I switch to another game my amps click on and all is good. Back to Destiny and after a while the amps click off again, I just get stereo sound but the D2v reads 7.1 Change to another game like BF4 and they click back on. I thought maybe my HDMI cable was the culprit but after changing it the problem continues. I thought it was isolated to the game Destiny but now for the second or third week in a row, while watching the Toronto Maple Leafs on CBC the same thing continues to occur. The amps click off but the D2v still reads 5.1, if I change to another CBC feed the problem persists, but any other channel is good and the amps click on. I did find one CBC feed where the amps don't click off. Anyone ever had something like this happen?

John


----------



## thestewman

gerard1meehan said:


> Stew,
> 
> Thanks for the advise.
> 
> So I moved the to fronts back a foot to 5 ft from the wall, and re-positioned the sub. Then I found the first and second reflections and added some absorbing panels. Ran the PBK, then Arc. So far so good. Happier with the results but I am sure i do need further tweeking
> 
> Charts below
> 
> Gerard



Questions for you

Did you use a sound level meter to set the levels.? They are a bit high at 85 db. They should be 75 db

Did you use ARC in the Manual mode and not Auto ?
Did you go into the Targets/Advanced screen and set the Sub Woofer to Flat ? And at 20hz

Have you checked you turned *Room EQ ON *for the audio sources you want to use ARC with ?
Most of your sources are analog so remember ARC does not work with any source audio set to Analog Direct they have to be Analog Digital 

You forgot to post the Targets window we need that to make suggestions.

You can see that RBK took care of reducing ARC's processing of the SUB.
I think you should use ARC / Quick Measure and see if you can eliminate the low end problem with your Left Front speaker. Maybe they are still to far from the front wall. 

What is your assessment of what you now hear.

Personally I would not use ARC for your turntable/phono amp or your open reel machine.
I like to use Analog Direct on all my analog and HiRez stereo or multichannel sources.
You should compare Analog Direct to Analog Digital to determine which you prefer.

Stew


----------



## thestewman

studlygoorite said:


> Something strange happening with my D2v, while playing Destiny on my Xbox One my center channel amp and my surrounds amps cut out due to no signal, but my D2v displays that I am still running 7.1. If I switch to another game my amps click on and all is good. Back to Destiny and after a while the amps click off again, I just get stereo sound but the D2v reads 7.1 Change to another game like BF4 and they click back on. I thought maybe my HDMI cable was the culprit but after changing it the problem continues. I thought it was isolated to the game Destiny but now for the second or third week in a row, while watching the Toronto Maple Leafs on CBC the same thing continues to occur. The amps click off but the D2v still reads 5.1, if I change to another CBC feed the problem persists, but any other channel is good and the amps click on. I did find one CBC feed where the amps don't click off. Anyone ever had something like this happen?
> 
> John


Hey There Studly

Not unusual for cable or satellite and especially hockey or sporting events. They transmit stereo almost exclusively.
The game you will have to test on another machine or get a second copy to determine if it is the game or if it is defective.


----------



## perioms

Hi!
Are there any plans to implement Dolby Atmos or Auro3d?


----------



## studlygoorite

thestewman said:


> Hey There Studly
> 
> Not unusual for cable or satellite and especially hockey or sporting events. They transmit stereo almost exclusively.
> The game you will have to test on another machine or get a second copy to determine if it is the game or if it is defective.


Hey Stew,

But if it was the source you would think the D2v would change the display wouldn't you?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ What he's saying is that it is not unusual for programs like that to only have audio in the LF/RF channels even though they are transmitting a 5.1 Bitstream.
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ What he's saying is that it is not unusual for programs like that to only have audio in the LF/RF channels even though they are transmitting a 5.1 Bitstream.
> --Bob


+1

Thanks Bob

There are so many people and so much handling of the signal before it reaches us there is no way to know where the multichannel signal disappeared or when it was removed.


----------



## studlygoorite

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ What he's saying is that it is not unusual for programs like that to only have audio in the LF/RF channels even though they are transmitting a 5.1 Bitstream.
> --Bob


I did not know that, thanks for your time guys.


----------



## gerard1meehan

thestewman said:


> Questions for you
> 
> Did you use a sound level meter to set the levels.? They are a bit high at 85 db. They should be 75 db
> 
> Did you use ARC in the Manual mode and not Auto ?
> Did you go into the Targets/Advanced screen and set the Sub Woofer to Flat ? And at 20hz
> 
> Have you checked you turned *Room EQ ON *for the audio sources you want to use ARC with ?
> Most of your sources are analog so remember ARC does not work with any source audio set to Analog Direct they have to be Analog Digital
> 
> You forgot to post the Targets window we need that to make suggestions.
> 
> You can see that RBK took care of reducing ARC's processing of the SUB.
> I think you should use ARC / Quick Measure and see if you can eliminate the low end problem with your Left Front speaker. Maybe they are still to far from the front wall.
> 
> What is your assessment of what you now hear.
> 
> Personally I would not use ARC for your turntable/phono amp or your open reel machine.
> I like to use Analog Direct on all my analog and HiRez stereo or multichannel sources.
> You should compare Analog Direct to Analog Digital to determine which you prefer.
> 
> Stew


Stew,


I did not set the levels, I did use the manual ARC and set the sub levels. Since that post I did move my fronts back a little to about 4.5 feet from the wall.

Of course my laptop is having issues and not letting copy my charts.

As for my Analog side. While i was in mid construction I had the D2v in a room with cathedral ceilings and wood floors. So I found that the Analog DSP was blessing in that room. In the new room I prefer the tape in DSP, as for Vinyl I don't know. Sunday when I was going to play my first record I snapped my cartridge. A heartbreaking and stupid thing on my part. Waiting for an exchange with ClearAudio, and that will be a few weeks, (and the coin I stashed for acoustical treatments).


More to follow as I progress. Hope to have charts up shortly.


But I am much happier with the sound today than when I first posted. 

G


----------



## thestewman

gerard1meehan said:


> Stew,
> 
> 
> I did not set the levels, I did use the manual ARC and set the sub levels. Since that post I did move my fronts back a little to about 4.5 feet from the wall.
> 
> Of course my laptop is having issues and not letting copy my charts.
> 
> As for my Analog side. While i was in mid construction I had the D2v in a room with cathedral ceilings and wood floors. So I found that the Analog DSP was blessing in that room. In the new room I prefer the tape in DSP, as for Vinyl I don't know. Sunday when I was going to play my first record I snapped my cartridge. A heartbreaking and stupid thing on my part. Waiting for an exchange with ClearAudio, and that will be a few weeks, (and the coin I stashed for acoustical treatments).
> 
> 
> More to follow as I progress. Hope to have charts up shortly.
> 
> 
> But I am much happier with the sound today than when I first posted.
> 
> G


Good to hear it is sounding better.
This is very important..If I am to interpret literally your statement " I did not set the levels, ".
And how do you come up with 4.5 ft from the front wall. Arbitrarily ?
Use Quick Measure so you can improve on the Left Front response and the sound stage
You have to set the levels EXACTLY as outlined in the manual. ARC cannot correctly or properly function without the basic setup. So what you are hearing is an improperly setup system. You might as well turn it off as ARC is currently trying to compensate for the wrong sound levels.

When you get the charts up do not forget the Target window.

And you never said if you checked each source to see if Room EQ is set to ON.


Stew


----------



## gerard1meehan

thestewman said:


> Good to hear it is sounding better.
> This is very important..If I am to interpret literally your statement " I did not set the levels, ".
> And how do you come up with 4.5 ft from the front wall. Arbitrarily ?
> Use Quick Measure so you can improve on the Left Front response and the sound stage
> You have to set the levels EXACTLY as outlined in the manual. ARC cannot correctly or properly function without the basic setup. So what you are hearing is an improperly setup system. You might as well turn it off as ARC is currently trying to compensate for the wrong sound levels.
> 
> When you get the charts up do not forget the Target window.
> 
> And you never said if you checked each source to see if Room EQ is set to ON.
> 
> 
> Stew


I am confused as to setting the levels. Page 30 of the manual says use a meter to set the levels if not using ARC. So I did not adjust as I am using ARC. Please clarify how I am approaching this incorrectly.

I did utilize the quick measure function for the L&R fronts. This was how I determined that distance.

ARC is on for all sources.


As for the targets I set the SUb as you suggested. As for the the remainder of the speakers I left the crossovers at what ARC Autodetected. They were as Follows 

Front 60
Center 60
surrounds 110
rears 95
Sub 85

I will hopefully have the charts up in a few hours


----------



## gerard1meehan

OK,

Arc results


----------



## thestewman

gerard1meehan said:


> I am confused as to setting the levels. Page 30 of the manual says use a meter to set the levels if not using ARC. So I did not adjust as I am using ARC. Please clarify how I am approaching this incorrectly.
> 
> I did utilize the quick measure function for the L&R fronts. This was how I determined that distance.
> 
> ARC is on for all sources.
> 
> 
> As for the targets I set the SUb as you suggested. As for the the remainder of the speakers I left the crossovers at what ARC Autodetected. They were as Follows
> 
> Front 60
> Center 60
> surrounds 110
> rears 95
> Sub 85
> 
> I will hopefully have the charts up in a few hours


I guess I would be confused also if I had to follow the Anthem manual exclusively.
Luckily we have some knowledgeable forum members who have hashed this out previously.

It does state in the ARC section of the D2v manual " The first microphone position is at the central listening position". " This is used to set Speaker Calibration Levels".
Yet Anthem does not have the instructions

You will need a Sound Lever Meter set to C weighted, Slow response

Here is Bob Pariseau's Speaker Calibration Technique

"Zero all the lines in Setup > Level Calibration, then use the Test Level line (test tone will come from LF speaker) and adjust that to yield 75dB SPL measured with a sound pressure level meter at your ARC mic position 1 (center seating).
Everyone uses the inexpensive, digital readout SPL meter sold by Radio Shack. Point that straight up, held at arm's length, at seated ear height, and set to "Slow" response and "C" weighting.

Leave the rest of the Level Calibration lines at 0dB. Go down to to the Subwoofer line and, leaving that at 0dB, *adjust the volume using the volume knob on the Sub itself*. Ballpark settings are fine for this, as ARC will do all the fine tuning of volume levels.

With the Test Level line and the Sub volume knob set, and with speaker distances and Sub Phase dialed in, you can now do your ARC Measurement pass. 
NOTE: You only have to do these preliminaries once (presuming you don't shift speakers around), as what you set up here will still be in place for any subsequent ARC runs you do."

Also I looked at your latest charts and noticed two items that absolutely need fixing.

There is something wrong with both the front speakers
The anomaly in the frequency response of the Left Front speaker. Try Quick Measure and see if you can eliminate the dip from 50hz to 200hz.
There is also an anomaly in the right front speaker starting at 400 hz and going to 50hz. 
I suggest you try switching the amp inputs and rerunning ARC or Quick Measure to see if changing the inputs changes the freq response charts.
Or, temporarily switch the speakers and see if the charts change with the speakers. 
You are not going to get the sound you want until you get a hand on the problem.
With the left front speaker ARC has added as much correction as the program allows and it is not enough to overcome the problem.

Last, when looking at your Targets for some reason it did not lock in the changes to the sub.
Maybe you forgot to click OK It should look like this.


----------



## AVfile

thestewman said:


> Questions for you
> 
> Did you use a sound level meter to set the levels.? They are a bit high at 85 db. They should be 75 db



I would question first if he is running Windows 8. ARC is known to number the charts 10dB high under Windows 8.


----------



## thestewman

AVfile said:


> I would question first if he is running Windows 8. ARC is known to number the charts 10dB high under Windows 8.


He has stated,

"I am confused as to setting the levels. Page 30 of the manual says use a meter to set the levels if not using ARC. So I did not adjust as I am using ARC. Please clarify how I am approaching this incorrectly."

He properly followed the Anthem D2v manual which does not instruct you to set the speaker levels if using ARC.


----------



## gerard1meehan

OK,

Looks like I'll start from scratch again. Thanks for taking the time to help

I'm running Vista on my laptop



More to follow


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

gerard1meehan said:


> Arc results


 1. Front Left measured response has a notch at 80 Hz resulting in a slight miss after eq compared to target curve. This 2 dB may not be audible since another front speaker and the sub are also playing though repositioning the speaker may help (the right speaker would also have to be moved in symmetry) if there's room for doing so. Either way, changing Fronts and Center targets to 80 Hz and recalculating can also help.

2. Your sub channel measured response (red curve) declines steadily from just over 70 Hz, and it's really low at 100 Hz, which usually means the sub's crossover is in effect. This could contribute to booming sound. Check whether the sub's crossover setting is as high as it goes and if it's not, set it to max and re-run ARC. Since it's a Sub 1, don't forget to set sub advanced target to Flat in ARC (PBK does this in itself since it knows you're using a Sub 1... ARC doesn't).

No need to set levels manually because absolute level (75 dB) matters in terms of getting certain SPL when volume dial is at 0 dB, which hardly seems to happen since it's so loud. The main point is that all speaker levels are matched to one another.

Uploading ARC turns it on for all sources.

For more advice you can always send your .arc and .pdm files to tech support.


----------



## gerard1meehan

Nick @ Anthem said:


> 1. Front Left measured response has a notch at 80 Hz resulting in a slight miss after eq compared to target curve. This 2 dB may not be audible since another front speaker and the sub are also playing though repositioning the speaker may help (the right speaker would also have to be moved in symmetry) if there's room for doing so. Either way, changing Fronts and Center targets to 80 Hz and recalculating can also help.
> 
> 2. Your sub channel measured response (red curve) declines steadily from just over 70 Hz, and it's really low at 100 Hz, which usually means the sub's crossover is in effect. This could contribute to booming sound. Check whether the sub's crossover setting is as high as it goes and if it's not, set it to max and re-run ARC. Since it's a Sub 1, don't forget to set sub advanced target to Flat in ARC (PBK does this in itself since it knows you're using a Sub 1... ARC doesn't).
> 
> No need to set levels manually because absolute level (75 dB) matters in terms of getting certain SPL when volume dial is at 0 dB, which hardly seems to happen since it's so loud. The main point is that all speaker levels are matched to one another.
> 
> Uploading ARC turns it on for all sources.
> 
> For more advice you can always send your .arc and .pdm files to tech support.


Nick,

Thanks for the information. I have some work ahead of me


----------



## thestewman

Nick @ Anthem said:


> 1. Front Left measured response has a notch at 80 Hz resulting in a slight miss after eq compared to target curve. This 2 dB may not be audible since another front speaker and the sub are also playing though repositioning the speaker may help (the right speaker would also have to be moved in symmetry) if there's room for doing so. Either way, changing Fronts and Center targets to 80 Hz and recalculating can also help.
> 
> 2. Your sub channel measured response (red curve) declines steadily from just over 70 Hz, and it's really low at 100 Hz, which usually means the sub's crossover is in effect. This could contribute to booming sound. Check whether the sub's crossover setting is as high as it goes and if it's not, set it to max and re-run ARC. Since it's a Sub 1, don't forget to set sub advanced target to Flat in ARC (PBK does this in itself since it knows you're using a Sub 1... ARC doesn't).
> 
> No need to set levels manually because absolute level (75 dB) matters in terms of getting certain SPL when volume dial is at 0 dB, which hardly seems to happen since it's so loud. The main point is that all speaker levels are matched to one another.
> 
> Uploading ARC turns it on for all sources.
> 
> 
> For more advice you can always send your .arc and .pdm files to tech support.


Nick
Thanks for adding a professional opinion on his charts.Really appreciated to see you are still watching the forum.
In regards to setting the levels. How would one know the levels are matched if you do not test and set them ?
He is using separate amplifiers and we do not know if he is using a mixture of balanced and single ended connections.
With the Signature S8 speakers I could not find any user manuals on the Paradigm web site. 
Is there a User manual available to download ?
This leaves us in the dark in knowing what is adjustable on each speaker or where they might be set.

He ran PBK on his Sub 1 prior to ARC and all his SUB 1 settings should have been preset.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^
"How would one know the levels are matched if you do not test and set them ?"

ARC measures levels and during upload it sets the level calibration menu according to mic position 1. This is why the instructions say start ARC measurements in the central listening position and don't worry about setting levels in the calibration menu if using ARC.

"He is using separate amplifiers and we do not know if he is using a mixture of balanced and single ended connections."

Knowing wouldn't make a difference. Level measurement picks up on everything affecting level from signal generator to mic, namely pre-out voltage, amp gain, speaker efficiency and proximity. Calibration exists to account for the differences by making all speakers play at the same volume.

"With the Signature S8 speakers I could not find any user manuals on the Paradigm web site. Is there a User manual available to download ?"

Click on Reviews & Downloads or Support. It's the same layout on the Anthem site.

"He ran PBK on his Sub 1 prior to ARC and all his SUB 1 settings should have been preset."

The subwoofer measured curve (the red one) on his second set of ARC graphs resembles an 80 Hz crossover. This means the subwoofer's crossover isn't set where it needs to be.


----------



## thestewman

Nick @ Anthem said:


> ^
> "How would one know the levels are matched if you do not test and set them ?"
> 
> ARC measures levels and during upload it sets the level calibration menu according to mic position 1. This is why the instructions say start ARC measurements in the central listening position and don't worry about setting levels in the calibration menu if using ARC.
> 
> "He is using separate amplifiers and we do not know if he is using a mixture of balanced and single ended connections."
> 
> Knowing wouldn't make a difference. Level measurement picks up on everything affecting level from signal generator to mic, namely pre-out voltage, amp gain, speaker efficiency and proximity. Calibration exists to account for the differences by making all speakers play at the same volume.
> 
> "With the Signature S8 speakers I could not find any user manuals on the Paradigm web site. Is there a User manual available to download ?"
> 
> Click on Reviews & Downloads or Support. It's the same layout on the Anthem site.
> 
> "He ran PBK on his Sub 1 prior to ARC and all his SUB 1 settings should have been preset."
> 
> The subwoofer measured curve (the red one) on his second set of ARC graphs resembles an 80 Hz crossover. This means the subwoofer's crossover isn't set where it needs to be.


Nick

Thank you

The entire forum has been laboring under incorrect information about setting levels since the start of the forum.
Surprisingly no one ever picked up on that until now, years later 
It will make running ARC somewhat easier not having to test levels

Reference your information on the S8 User manual that was were I looked. 
Either I am blind and cannot see good or it does not exist.

And yes his targets say 85hz for the sub cutoff. My own Sub2 says 140hz

Thanks again for the education


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The value of pre-setting Test Level and then the Sub's Volume knob is that it gets things in The Right Ballpark for ARC to do its job.

If people have been using their speaker configuration in a manual (pre-ARC) setup, it may very well *ALREADY* be in The Right Ballpark, and if it is close enough, ARC can certainly take it from there without any such preliminary steps.

But enough people have wacky setups that doing these quick preliminary steps is, in my opinion, still wise, and minimizes the chances that ARC will complain it can't hear the Sub (or main speakers) or that the necessary trim corrections are outside the range the hardware can provide.

Test Level is the "master volume" for the ARC Test Tones. By presetting it, you can be sure ARC will have enough volume to hear what it needs to hear from the test tone sweeps. ARC can handle a pretty wide range of amp gains and speaker sensitivities, and if you've already been listening to your speaker configuration prior to ARC, odds are, it is already "close enough". But setting it makes sure.

The trim levels available in the hardware have limits. If the volume knob on the Sub puts it too far out of range of what the main speakers are producing, ARC will not be able to trim it -- and will complain. For many people, setting the Sub volume properly means lowering it -- i.e., the tendency is for folks to have too MUCH bass built into their manual setups. If ARC runs out of trim room it will complain and you'll have to do the adjustment anyway. Sometimes folks have the Sub's volume knob set too low and ARC will complain it can't hear the sub reliably.

By setting Test Level, and then the Sub's volume knob, you get BOTH of them into The Right Ballpark, and insure that ARC can take it from there. The bit about zeroing out the other trim settings is to keep the instructions simple. The output of Test Level is altered by the trim setting for the LF speaker. And so if you are going to go through the exercise of presetting Test Level, you start by zeroing the LF trim. And of course you want 0 Sub trim as well when setting the volume knob on the Sub. Telling folks to zero ALL the trim settings as the first step is just simpler than explaining all this.

ARC was designed so that MOST people would just be able to Measure and go without doing preliminary stuff. But doing these simple preliminary steps takes care of anyone whose setup just happens to be further afield.

Speaker distances and Sub Phase also need to be adjusted Manually of course, so the preliminary level settings here are just one more, simple task to help make sure ARC setup goes smoothly.

To put it another way, if you DON'T do the preliminary level setting, and ARC finds no reason to complain, then you are good to go as far as trim levels are concerned.
--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Bob Pariseau said:


> If the volume knob on the Sub puts it too far out of range of what the main speakers are producing, ARC will not be able to trim it -- and will complain.


 Mid-way position usually works. If output is too low, ARC produces an error message saying it can't hear the sub well enough and asks whether to play the sweep again vs starting over. When some consecutive attempts at sweeping don't work it says raise the sub's level and start a new measurement. On the other hand if level is too high, ARC says it's out of adjustment range, lower it and start over.

Preliminary setup can help avoid the following though without an SPL meter the maximum penalty is having to re-run ARC: If input level is way up but not high enough for ARC to complain, it may still be high enough to put the sub into "party mode" where it rolls off the low end if things get too loud, so it can keep playing without making funny or self-destructive noises. Sub channel in the level calibration menu will likely be minus double-digit. If you see this and are using a smaller sub, you may want to turn down its input dial and re-measure.

Before deeming that early bottom-end rolloff on a graph is caused by too-high input level (entry level subs can have zero output below 40 Hz by design regardless of level) the near-universal cause - acoustic cancellation - needs to be checked.


----------



## dbphd

Bob/Nick,

I think I may have asked this in a different form, but is the analog audio section of a D2 different from that of a D2v? I could send lossless codecs processed by my 105 as LPCM to a D2 via HDMI. Any comparison of the analog sound from a D2 with that from a 105 or Sony XA5400ES would be appreciated. Currently, stereo from my Oppo and Sony are connected to my Parasound JC-2 BP analog preamp, surround from the Oppo goes directly to the amps. The Sony can only do surround via HDMI, so it used for stereo only. Obviously, I could look for a good used D2v or leave the setup as it is without an Anthem. Maybe there isn't a role for the Sony now that the Ayre is doing stereo.

I thought it might be interesting to try ARC for surround. I could use a Goldpoint switch to select surround from the Anthem or stereo from the JC-2 BP, but perhaps I'm over complicating things.

db


----------



## Totallyconfused

*audio drops when changing to certain channels*

I have been trying to set up my D2v3d for several days now and have an issue I have not been able to correct. When changing channels on the Dish Hopper there will be no audio on certain channels; however, if I use the remote and change the source from SAT to another source, like DVD, then back to SAT the audio will come back on, change to another channel and then back to the one that initially had no audio and, again, no audio unless I do the trick I just mentioned. I'm stumped, I figure it is a setting on the D2v that I have chosen poorly, but nothing I have tried fixes the problem. Any helpful suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks.

Anthem goes via HDMI 1 out to Pioneer Elite Pro-141FD display monitor. Dish Hopper to Anthem input HDMI 1 and OPPO 105D to Anthem input HDMI 2.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ Try optical or coax (single RCA cable) connection from the box to the D2v and configure SAT audio input accordingly in the D2v source setup menu. Broadcast doesn't use multichannel lossless audio therefore does not require HDMI audio, but to ensure 5.1-channel stations remain 5.1, check the box settings to make sure coax/optical output isn't set to stereo.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

dbphd said:


> is the analog audio section of a D2 different from that of a D2v?


Same


----------



## Totallyconfused

Nick @ Anthem said:


> ^ Try optical or coax (single RCA cable) connection from the box to the D2v and configure SAT audio input accordingly in the D2v source setup menu. Broadcast doesn't use multichannel lossless audio therefore does not require HDMI audio, but to ensure 5.1-channel stations remain 5.1, check the box settings to make sure coax/optical output isn't set to stereo.


Thanks Nick, I will give it a try.


----------



## gerard1meehan

gerard1meehan said:


> Nick,
> 
> Thanks for the information. I have some work ahead of me


Ok here are my latest charts


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^
The sub's -3 dB point changed from 70 Hz to 100 Hz, which fills in the top end of the sub channel nicely.

As for the still-present front left 2 dB drop in the area of 80 Hz there doesn't seem to be much more that can be done easily, but now that the sub has the area covered it should be less of an issue. You might want to change fronts target from 60 Hz to 80 Hz and recalculate to see what happens but I don't expect things will change much. Even if front left does reach target, there are still two other speakers playing 80 Hz (front right and sub) so a 2 dB SPL increase in one channel's crossover area translates to an overall increase of around half a dB in the same area depending on how in-phase the three sound sources are, and this is just in terms of redirected bass, before independent LFE content is added.

The final test of course is how it sounds with the latest parameters and if it's not the desired result, keeping in mind that your new room may never sound like the previous one, try changing room gain in targets or sub level in the menu one dB at a time and see how that sounds. Changing room gain affects sub level by an equal amount, so don't double-compensate inadvertently by changing the menu at the same time in the same direction.

If higher-frequency reflections are an issue and you're up for more tweaks, mark the existing angle with tape on the floor in case you want to revert, aim the front speakers more toward the main listener, and re-measure.


----------



## gerard1meehan

Nick @ Anthem said:


> ^
> The sub's -3 dB point changed from 70 Hz to 100 Hz, which fills in the top end of the sub channel nicely.
> 
> As for the still-present front left 2 dB drop in the area of 80 Hz there doesn't seem to be much more that can be done easily, but now that the sub has the area covered it should be less of an issue. You might want to change fronts target from 60 Hz to 80 Hz and recalculate to see what happens but I don't expect things will change much. Even if front left does reach target, there are still two other speakers playing 80 Hz (front right and sub) so a 2 dB SPL increase in one channel's crossover area translates to an overall increase of around half a dB in the same area depending on how in-phase the three sound sources are, and this is just in terms of redirected bass, before independent LFE content is added.
> 
> The final test of course is how it sounds with the latest parameters and if it's not the desired result, keeping in mind that your new room may never sound like the previous one, try changing room gain in targets or sub level in the menu one dB at a time and see how that sounds. Changing room gain affects sub level by an equal amount, so don't double-compensate inadvertently by changing the menu at the same time in the same direction.
> 
> If higher-frequency reflections are an issue and you're up for more tweaks, mark the existing angle with tape on the floor in case you want to revert, aim the front speakers more toward the main listener, and re-measure.


Thanks Nick,

My room has does not really have too muck in the way of acoustical treatments at his time. I have some Acoustic ceiling tiles temporarily mounted on the walls at the first reflection point from ceiling to floor, and a 24x24 in each corner. Nothing on the ceiling either. And I only have a single recliner in the 1st position at this time as well.

So my question is ( since you are familiar with S8v2's) is the issue a speaker placement /room acoustic issue or a limitation of the speaker?

As for the sound I am happier then I have been so far. And your advice and Stew's has gotten me to this point. I am open to tweaking the room so Ill work with the alignment of my fronts.

My gut is telling me that the room is not helping me, a simple clap test in the room shows it. But I am a bit over my head with that and don't want to just buy a treatment package and throw it up in the hopes it improves things. So I'll have to do some more homework on that end.

Thanks for the support folks!

G


----------



## dbphd

Bob/Nick,

HDMI-1 from my Oppo 105 goes directly to a Sony VPL VW 50ES projector; HDMI-2 goes to a Sony monitor. If I install an Anthem D2 for surround sound with ARC I had thought to continue the HDMI-1 connection. But after reading reviews of the D2 this morning, I wonder if I should use the video processing of the D2 or 105. Any advice?

db


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If you are talking an original D2 I'd probably continue with the 2 cable arrangement you have now. With a newer D2v, single HDMI 1 from the OPPO through the D2v should be the way to go. Send 1080p/24 from the OPPO to the D2v. Leave the picture adjustments in the OPPO and D2v at their defaults, and calibrate video using the adjustments in the Display. The D2v won't actually be doing any video processing that gets in the way. 

You could also use 2 cable, but simpler cabling is usually better for HDMI. 
--Bob


----------



## Totallyconfused

Totallyconfused said:


> Thanks Nick, I will give it a try.


You nailed it Nick, thanks again.


----------



## mlbrand

*Amp broke, temporary options?*

My external 7 channel amp has to be sent in for repair (buzzing in back channel). I will be without an amp for about a month, so I'm exploring temporary amp substitute options. (I need to use the video processor in the D2 for stretching 2.35 movies for my projector, or I'm stuck with TV only for a month.)

I have a Yamaha RXV-1400 AV receiver I can use for an audio amp, that I would like to make work with the D2, if possible.

Any problems with connecting the D2 audio channel RCA outputs to the multi-channel inputs on the Yamaha and using the Yamaha amp to drive my speakers? It seems like this would work to me, and let me keep my ARC settings in place, and leave the subs hooked up to the D2. Any other ideas would be welcome.

Mike B.


----------



## dbphd

Bob Pariseau said:


> If you are talking an original D2 I'd probably continue with the 2 cable arrangement you have now.
> --Bob


Bob,

I put in a bid for a D2 with ARC, so if I get it, I'll continue to connect HDMI-1 to the Sony projector, and take HDMI-2 and HDMI from the Sony XA5400ES to the D2. I'm not sure how I'd get video to the Sony monitor, though. Does HDMI-2 carry video? If so, HDMI from the D2 to the monitor should work. Also, will the ARC software run on an iMac simulation of a PC?

db


----------



## Nicoff

Nick,
I was wondering if Anthem will be doing a complete revamp of their top of the line processor and what might be the timeframe for that. A new processor that incorporates the latest advances such as Dolby Atmos, DSD processing, network rendering, etc. 
thanks.


----------



## drhankz

Nicoff said:


> Nick,
> I was wondering if Anthem will be doing a complete revamp of their top of the line processor and what might be the timeframe for that. A new processor that incorporates the latest advances such as Dolby Atmos, DSD processing, network rendering, etc.
> thanks.


I am *NOT NICK* and *I do not work for Anthem. *

*NO MANUFACTURER* would publish such information on any Public Forum.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dbphd said:


> Bob Pariseau said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you are talking an original D2 I'd probably continue with the 2 cable arrangement you have now.
> --Bob
> 
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I put in a bid for a D2 with ARC, so if I get it, I'll continue to connect HDMI-1 to the Sony projector, and take HDMI-2 and HDMI from the Sony XA5400ES to the D2. I'm not sure how I'd get video to the Sony monitor, though. Does HDMI-2 carry video? If so, HDMI from the D2 to the monitor should work. Also, will the ARC software run on an iMac simulation of a PC?
> 
> db
Click to expand...

I use ARC with Windows 7 running on Boot Camp on a Mac. No problems doing that using the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter. 

HDMI 2 carries video. When the projector is on you should use Split A/V in the OPPO. The HDMI 2 video will be a safe video resolution for carrying audio to the D2. 

If the projector shuts off its HDMI when it is off, HDMI 2 will negotiate best video to the D2 regardless of the Split A/V choice. 

Set HDMI Audio LPCM in the OPPO along with SACD Output PCM and HDCD Decoding On. 
--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

drhankz said:


> I am *NOT NICK* and *I do not work for Anthem. *
> 
> *NO MANUFACTURER* would publish such information on any Public Forum.


No offense DrHankz, but my post was addressed to [email protected] not to you. While I realize that manufacturers may not be willing to reveal all the stuff that they are working on, they may chose to make some information public.


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## dreamhomecinema

*dream home theater acoustic graph with acoustic*

this is my old 2 months old graph with old acoustic treatment with photograps. will be uploding shortly another graph with another acoustic treatment results please give sugestions


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## dbphd

Bob,

I should have read the D2 and Sony XA5400ES manuals more closely. Sending lossless codecs processed by the Oppo 105 to the D2 via PCM seems viable, but sending DSD-surround from the Sony does not, because the D2 accepts only PCM via HDMI and the Sony adjusts its HDMI output to match the capability of the receiving unit. It's DSD from the Sony to the JC-2 BP that I find so impressive. Nevertheless, I'll honor the deal if mine is the winning bid on E-Bay. If ARC for surround doesn't convince me, I'll try to sell the D2, and look for a good deal on a used D2v -- IIRC, you recommended the D2v in an earlier post.

db


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The D2v also doesn't accept HDMI DSD. 

I suggest you try HDMI LPCM from the OPPO for SACD. You can compare against 5.1 Analog audio from the OPPO with SACD Output DSD set. That will give you DSD-Direct-to-Analog conversion in the OPPO. 
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Bob Pariseau said:


> The D2v also doesn't accept HDMI DSD.
> 
> I suggest you try HDMI LPCM from the OPPO for SACD. You can compare against 5.1 Analog audio from the OPPO with SACD Output DSD set. That will give you DSD-Direct-to-Analog conversion in the OPPO.
> --Bob


^

You spent all that extra money to get the audiophile analog section in the OPPO 105. Why not use it ?
I suspect you are using the OPPO as a DAC for DSD files and for SACD playback.
Use the OPPO analog outs for stereo and surround DSD to the Anthem analog inputs and listen using 2 channel stereo or 6.1 channel SE and set the source to Analog Direct. Listening should sell you on using this over HDMI.
Or, use the Parasound in Home Theater Bypass for your analog 2 channel DSD
The benefit to all this is eliminating redigitizing the signal with resultant jitter and noise.


----------



## dbphd

thestewman said:


> ^
> 
> You spent all that extra money to get the audiophile analog section in the OPPO 105. Why not use it ?
> I suspect you are using the OPPO as a DAC for DSD files and for SACD playback.
> Use the OPPO analog outs for stereo and surround DSD to the Anthem analog inputs and listen using 2 channel stereo or 6.1 channel SE and set the source to Analog Direct. Listening should sell you on using this over HDMI.
> Or, use the Parasound in Home Theater Bypass for your analog 2 channel DSD
> The benefit to all this is eliminating redigitizing the signal with resultant jitter and noise.


I use LPCM output from the Oppo 105 for SACDs. Analog stereo goes to the JC-2 BP, surround directly to the amps, LF to a Velodyne SMS-1 bass manager. My two goals for a D2 were (1) ARC for surround from both the Oppo and Sony and (2) DSD surround from the Sony. Bob tells me goal 2 is unrealizable with either a D2 or D2v. IIRC, the Cary Cinema 11a did accept DSD surround from the Sony, albeit with lots of HDMI artifacts -- the 11a treated LPCM from the Oppo as DSD. Unless ARC proves a big win for surround, I'll sell the D2 (assuming mine is the winning bid) and stick with my current setup.

db


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## dreamhomecinema

*new graph with new calabration*

this is my ofter accoustic re tratment home theater photos and arc graph ant suggesions please


----------



## thestewman

dbphd said:


> I use LPCM output from the Oppo 105 for SACDs. Analog stereo goes to the JC-2 BP, surround directly to the amps, LF to a Velodyne SMS-1 bass manager. My two goals for a D2 were (1) ARC for surround from both the Oppo and Sony and (2) DSD surround from the Sony. Bob tells me goal 2 is unrealizable with either a D2 or D2v. IIRC, the Cary Cinema 11a did accept DSD surround from the Sony, albeit with lots of HDMI artifacts -- the 11a treated LPCM from the Oppo as DSD. Unless ARC proves a big win for surround, I'll sell the D2 (assuming mine is the winning bid) and stick with my current setup.
> 
> db


I would suggest you try my setup suggestion and if you want to use ARC modify it by changing your source setup to Analog Digital. This would let you pass the DSD converted to analog by the OPPO to the D2 and also analog from the Sony.
Stereo or surround ?. Use the Anthem remote to select the correct source and input.
Forget using HDMI for HiRez audio except for Blu Ray lossless audio with the accompanying video.

Understand the reason for the HDMI is to prevent you from making 1:1 copies. 
So playing a SACD or streaming of DSD to analog by the OPPO DAC is usually a bit perfect copy.
Somewhere in the chain there has to be a DAC to convert the DSD to analog.
You may find the Anthem D2 with Analog Direct sounds as good and maybe better than the Parasound.
The Anthem in Analog Direct only has the volume control op amps in the circuit.
Only limitation is the D2 is limited to 96k. There are a lot of HiRez LPCM signals higher than that

Remember most if not all music has no LFE signal for the sub woofer. 

Unless I am misreading what you state above how do you connect surround directly to the amps ?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

dbphd said:


> IIRC, the Cary Cinema 11a did accept DSD surround from the Sony, albeit with lots of HDMI artifacts


The DAC in Statement D models uses sample rate conversion which means data is reclocked making jitter at the input a non-issue. (The "v" models also reduce jitter at the HDMI input therefore the AVM 50v, though it does not have an upsampling DAC, still has HDMI jitter reduction.)


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Nicoff said:


> I was wondering if Anthem will be doing a complete revamp of their top of the line processor


 Can't see that happening any time soon.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

gerard1meehan said:


> is the issue a speaker placement /room acoustic issue or a limitation of the speaker? ... My gut is telling me that the room is not helping me, a simple clap test in the room shows it.


 Try a search on flutter echo to see whether the description matches and to help find the right treatment - type of material(s), where to place it, and how much to use.


----------



## dbphd

thestewman said:


> I would suggest you try my setup suggestion and if you want to use ARC modify it by changing your source setup to Analog Digital. This would let you pass the DSD converted to analog by the OPPO to the D2 and also analog from the Sony.
> Stereo or surround ?. Use the Anthem remote to select the correct source and input.
> Forget using HDMI for HiRez audio except for Blu Ray lossless audio with the accompanying video.
> 
> Understand the reason for the HDMI is to prevent you from making 1:1 copies.
> So playing a SACD or streaming of DSD to analog by the OPPO DAC is usually a bit perfect copy.
> Somewhere in the chain there has to be a DAC to convert the DSD to analog.
> You may find the Anthem D2 with Analog Direct sounds as good and maybe better than the Parasound.
> The Anthem in Analog Direct only has the volume control op amps in the circuit.
> Only limitation is the D2 is limited to 96k. There are a lot of HiRez LPCM signals higher than that
> 
> Remember most if not all music has no LFE signal for the sub woofer.
> 
> Unless I am misreading what you state above how do you connect surround directly to the amps ?


The Oppo outputs analog LPCM to enable speaker management.If I were to set the output of the Oppo to be DSD, there would be no speaker management. Thus, my thinking was to send digital from the Oppo and use the DAC process of the D2, which i would hope is at least equal to that of the Oppo 105. That would permit the use of ARC.

At first I thought your setup recommendation was brilliant, because I could use DSD surround from the Oppo if the D2 provides speaker management. But then I realized the D2 would need to digitize the input from the Oppo in order to provide speaker management. Am I missing something? I'm easily confused when it comes to DSD.

db


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ Since the D2 applies bass management and time alignment, make sure the player doesn't also apply these processes when outputting PCM - set all channels to Large and to the same distance in the player. As for D series DAC sound quality, we ran listening tests and no one could tell the difference between analog-direct and analog-DSP when anything meant to change the sound was disabled (D series bass management set Large etc). This is to say that the ADC is also transparent.


----------



## thestewman

dbphd said:


> The Oppo outputs analog LPCM to enable speaker management.If I were to set the output of the Oppo to be DSD, there would be no speaker management. Thus, my thinking was to send digital from the Oppo and use the DAC process of the D2, which i would hope is at least equal to that of the Oppo 105. That would permit the use of ARC.
> 
> At first I thought your setup recommendation was brilliant, because I could use DSD surround from the Oppo if the D2 provides speaker management. But then I realized the D2 would need to digitize the input from the Oppo in order to provide speaker management. Am I missing something? I'm easily confused when it comes to DSD.
> 
> db





Nick @ Anthem said:


> ^ Since the D2 applies bass management and time alignment, make sure the player doesn't also apply these processes when outputting PCM - set all channels to Large and to the same distance in the player. As for D series DAC sound quality, we ran listening tests and no one could tell the difference between analog-direct and analog-DSP when anything meant to change the sound was disabled (D series bass management set Large etc). This is to say that the ADC is also transparent.


Hey guys !
What's missing here is the Anthem. Any model. Cannot do DSD. Period. And not SACD via HDMI.
With your setup if you are going to do DSD or SACD you should output analog from the OPPO. You have a state of the art DAC used in many high end DACs in the OPPO 105 and it has an audiophile analog section that works excellently. For stereo music and music surround you do not need the speaker management of the OPPO. Same goes for SACD. Use the OPPO analog output. It will sound overwhelmingly better than the OPPO digital coaxial or optical. If you feel ARC is necessary use Analog DSP in the Anthem.
Personally I like the idea of feeding the OPPO analog stereo directly to the Parasound and using the Home Theater Bypass to eliminate the Anthem for analog stereo. With the Surround feed the OPPO or Sony multi channel outputs to the Anthem. Then use the Anthem 6.1 SE source set to analog DSP to enable ARC if you want.


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## dbphd

I wish to thank Bob, Nick @ Anthem, and thestewman for their advice in using an Anthem D2 with my Oppo 105 and Sony XA5400ES. 

Oppo to D2
I think that advice leads me to take analog DSD from the Oppo to the D2 and use the analog-DSP provision of the D2. DSD output from the Oppo eliminates any speaker management by the Oppo, so the D2 will provide that. I would expect to continue to use the stereo output of the Oppo for front LR. I assume the Oppo can process the lossless codecs and send the result as DSD to the D2, is that correct?


Sony to D2
Given the Sony outputs surround only as HDMI, it will be connected to the D2 via HDMI. Analog stereo DSD from the Sony will go to the JC-2 BP. (Multi/2 channel and HDMI are button selections at the Sony.)


Ayre & JC-3
The C-5xeMP and JC-3 phono stage will continue to go only through the JC-2 BP.

Thanks for all your help,
db


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dbphd said:


> I wish to thank Bob, Nick @ Anthem, and thestewman for their advice in using an Anthem D2 with my Oppo 105 and Sony XA5400ES.
> 
> Oppo to D2
> I think that advice leads me to take analog DSD from the Oppo to the D2 and use the analog-DSP provision of the D2. DSD output from the Oppo eliminates any speaker management by the Oppo, so the D2 will provide that. I would expect to continue to use the stereo output of the Oppo for front LR. I assume the Oppo can process the lossless codecs and send the result as DSD to the D2, is that correct?
> 
> 
> Sony to D2
> Given the Sony outputs surround only as HDMI, it will be connected to the D2 via HDMI. Analog stereo DSD from the Sony will go to the JC-2 BP. (Multi/2 channel and HDMI are button selections at the Sony.)
> 
> 
> Ayre & JC-3
> The C-5xeMP and JC-3 phono stage will continue to go only through the JC-2 BP.
> 
> Thanks for all your help,
> db


DSD is a digital audio format used for SACD discs (and some media files you might play off a hard drive). Unless you play media files, the only place you will encounter DSD is on SACD discs.

The normal digital audio formats on the HDMI cable are Bitstreams (like DTS-HD MA) and LPCM. LPCM is the "simplest" audio format, and it's what you get from a Bitstream when the Bitstream is decoded. The OPPO can decode Bitstreams to LPCM -- which is good for you because the D2 does not handle the newer, lossless Bitstreams (TrueHD and DTS-HD MA).

The OPPO can ALSO convert DSD digital audio to LPCM digital audio. The resulting LPCM can be sent out over HDMI to the D2 or it can be sent to the DACs in the OPPO for conversion to Analog -- including all of the processing the OPPO offers for its Analog outputs. Things like down-mixing, speaker distance adjustment, and crossover processing.

The OPPO also has the special DACs needed to convert DSD digital Audio *DIRECTLY* to Analog for output. However if you use that path, no audio processing is available in the OPPO. I.e., the only thing the OPPO can do for you in that usage is Volume control.

The D2 has the ability to play Analog input unprocessed -- it stays as Analog and you get, basically, just Volume control. Or the D2 can re-digitize the Analog input and then process the resulting digital audio -- as with ARC. The results after processing then get converted BACK to Analog for output to your amps.

---------------------------------------------------------

So when playing an SACD in the OPPO, using a D2, your choices are as follows:

*1) HDMI LPCM from the OPPO to the D2. * The OPPO will convert the DSD from the SACD discs into multi-channel LPCM 2.0 or LPCM 5.1, at 88.2KHz 24-bit. The D2 can play that unprocessed or processed through ARC. Note that no re-digitization is needed prior to applying ARC because the audio has remained digital (from DSD off disc to LPCM over HDMI to the D2). No speaker configuration processing happens in the OPPO when using HDMI audio output. The D2 is responsible for all that.

*2) Multi-channel Analog from the OPPO to the D2 with SACD Output PCM set in the OPPO.* The OPPO will convert the DSD from the SACD discs into LPCM as above, process the LPCM according to your settings in the OPPO (e.g., Crossover or down-mix), and send the resulting LPCM to its DACs for conversion to Analog for output. The D2 can play that Analog input unprocessed, or it can re-digitize the Analog input and then do any processing you have specified -- such as ARC. Note that in this PROCESSED case you have a conversion to Analog in the OPPO, followed by a conversion back to Digital in the D2, followed by a conversion back to Analog for output from the D2. You also have the conversion of DSD to LPCM in the OPPO. You can bypass any additional processing in the OPPO (even when using LPCM to its DACs) if you prefer to let the D2 re-digitize and process the audio as through ARC.

*3) Multi-channel Analog from the OPPO to the D2 with SACD Output DSD set in the OPPO.* The OPPO will pass the DSD from the SACD discs *DIRECTLY* to its DACS for conversion to Analog for output. No processing (other than Volume control) is available in the OPPO when DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion is in effect. That means no down-mixing, no crossover processing, no speaker distance adjustments, no DTS Neo:6 Surround Sound -- nothing. The D2 can handle that incoming Analog audio just as in (2) above, either with or without ARC. To use ARC the D2 has to re-digitize the Analog audio input just as in (2) above.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you are going to use SACD Output PCM (OPPO converts DSD from SACD discs to LPCM), I recommend you use (1) above -- HDMI LPCM to the D2 -- instead of (2).

If you want to compare DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion, i.e., (3) above), I recommend you START by having the D2 re-digitize that Analog input so that you can apply ARC. Compare that against ARC processed LPCM input from the OPPO. My guess is you will find the LPCM sounds *IDENTICAL*. So you might as well stick with HDMI LPCM and keep things simple.

After doing THAT comparison, next switch to ANALOG-DIRECT in the D2 -- which disables ARC among other things. And compare DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion in the OPPO, with the D2 acting as an Analog pre-amp (i.e., NO PROCESSING AT ALL in the D2), against the HDMI LPCM case (1) above processed by ARC.

Keep in mind that since neither the OPPO nor the D2 is doing any audio processing, you will not have Crossover processing (bass directed from the main speakers to the Sub) or down-mix processing (if you have less than 5.1 speakers configured), or speaker distance adjustment (if your speakers are not all equidistant from your seating position).

My guess is you will discover that the advantages of ARC far outweigh any minor difference that exists from having the OPPO convert DSD directly to Analog instead of going the LPCM route. And again, if THAT'S the case then you should stick to HDMI LPCM from the OPPO as it avoids two steps of the audio path -- conversion to Analog in the OPPO and re-digitization back into Digital in the D2 prior to ARC.
--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

^ Bob, that is a very thorough and thoughtful reply. Anyone who visits this forum will readily appreciate the wealth of knowledge that you have and are willing to share with the rest of us. Thank you for doing this!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Nicoff

The discussions on using another piece of equipment/device to process SACD/DSD signals (the Oppo in this case) is illustrative of how changes in technology can affect once technology-leading products.

The Anthem D2 came out in late 2005 I believe. This A/V preamp became better with the D2v variant (2009?) which included significant improvements to the video section of the preamp. I read in this forum, that the D2v did not make any significant changes in the audio circuitry. So that means that in the past 9 years, there have been little improvements to the audio side of this A/V preamp.

I bought the D2 to replace two separate audio and video processors. I liked the simplicity of having just one unit that provided great features and sound. For my use today, I still would prefer a single A/V preamp. The audio section of that ideal A/V would have room correction (which the D2/D2v already does) plus do the following: internally decode high resolution files (above 96k), process downloaded DSD files, connect to a NAS (via Wi-Fi and Ethernet), render files, and play the digital files using an app. 

My biggest concern as far as Anthem products goes is that maybe Anthem is no longer committed to the high-end technology-leader that the D2/D2v has represented for BOTH audio and video. For a while now, I have been looking for a “tell me it ain’t so Joe” answer. I am still hoping...


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## Bob Pariseau

^ Personally I found the audio in the D2v superior to the audio in the D2. I was *NOT* expecting that, but when I tested it at the time it was pretty obvious to me. Since the Analog sections are the same (barring the usual changes in parts selection as manufacturing evolves through the years), I have to assume that's all in the digital processing for audio in the D2v.
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Personally I found the audio in the D2v superior to the audio in the D2. I was *NOT* expecting that, but when I tested it at the time it was pretty obvious to me. Since the Analog sections are the same (barring the usual changes in parts selection as manufacturing evolves through the years), I have to assume that's all in the digital processing for audio in the D2v.
> --Bob


Since Anthem would not tell us at the time we have to speculate that maybe they changed, upgraded or wrote new firmware for the DAC.
The change to 24/192kHz frrom 24/96 kHz made a big difference in the D2v capabilities.
And the ability to decode the lossless HD audio codecs on Video files was dramatic.


----------



## thestewman

Bob Pariseau said:


> *3) Multi-channel Analog from the OPPO to the D2 with SACD Output DSD set in the OPPO.* The OPPO will pass the DSD from the SACD discs *DIRECTLY* to its DACS for conversion to Analog for output. No processing (other than Volume control) is available in the OPPO when DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion is in effect. That means no down-mixing, no crossover processing, no speaker distance adjustments, no DTS Neo:6 Surround Sound -- nothing. The D2 can handle that incoming Analog audio just as in (2) above, either with or without ARC. To use ARC the D2 has to re-digitize the Analog audio input just as in (2) above.
> --Bob


You are missing the fact the user Nicoff is concerned about only the best audio he can hear and listen to when playing SACD or DSD. None of the above codecs such as DTS Nero:6 Surround has any bearing on listening to SACD or DSD



Bob Pariseau said:


> Keep in mind that since neither the OPPO nor the D2 is doing any audio processing, you will not have Crossover processing (bass directed from the main speakers to the Sub) or down-mix processing (if you have less than 5.1 speakers configured), or speaker distance adjustment (if your speakers are not all equidistant from your seating position).
> 
> My guess is you will discover that the advantages of ARC far outweigh any minor difference that exists from having the OPPO convert DSD directly to Analog instead of going the LPCM route. And again, if THAT'S the case then you should stick to HDMI LPCM from the OPPO as it avoids two steps of the audio path -- conversion to Analog in the OPPO and re-digitization back into Digital in the D2 prior to ARC.
> --Bob


It would be great if Nicoff returns to the forum after all his testing and gives us his opinion


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## dbphd

I just set SACD output to be DSD in the Oppo 105 menu. I hadn't tried that before. I'm impressed with the sound. Of course, speaker management is disabled, but I don't notice a hole even though I have no center channel, and the KEF 107/2s don't need to be supplemented by subs for music. If the analog-DSP provision really is transparent, I think I'll take analog DSD surround from the 105 to the D2. Of course, HDMI will be connected for Blu-ray, so I can compare the two connection schemes. I'm eager to try the Anthem ARC for 4.2 (or 6.2 if the D2 can do it).

Thanks guys,
db


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## stanger89

Nicoff said:


> The discussions on using another piece of equipment/device to process SACD/DSD signals (the Oppo in this case) is illustrative of how changes in technology can affect once technology-leading products.
> 
> The Anthem D2 came out in late 2005 I believe. This A/V preamp became better with the D2v variant (2009?) which included significant improvements to the video section of the preamp. I read in this forum, that the D2v did not make any significant changes in the audio circuitry. So that means that in the past 9 years, there have been little improvements to the audio side of this A/V preamp.


Outside of Dolby Atmos (and other Object-based audio codecs, which are only just now trickling to market) there's been nothing new to add/improve since the D2 came out.



> I bought the D2 to replace two separate audio and video processors. I liked the simplicity of having just one unit that provided great features and sound. For my use today, I still would prefer a single A/V preamp. The audio section of that ideal A/V would have room correction (which the D2/D2v already does) plus do the following: internally decode high resolution files (above 96k), process downloaded DSD files, connect to a NAS (via Wi-Fi and Ethernet), render files, and play the digital files using an app.


"Glad" isn't really the right word, but I'm "glad" that Anthem doesn't waste their time trying to implement a network media player. That market changes every week and it would be essentially impossible for Anthem to keep up with that market. I've seen the integrated media players in a number of devices and they all have one thing in common, they all suck compared to dedicated streaming devices made by companies (or teams within companies) that make devices specifically for that.

Of course frankly the same thing goes for video processing. I really wish Anthem would offer a processor with only video switching, the video processor in my 50V was an utter waste of money for me since I replaced it with a Lumagen Radiance XE which is just in another league, and really only costs about the difference between an AVM50 and an AVM40 to begin with.

I've basically become completely disillusioned with the whole "one box" mentality, it sounds great in theory, but you end up making too many sacrifices in performance and functionality that it's just not worth it IMO. I'd rather have an excellent SSP (like an AVM 40V in theory), VP (Lumagen Radiance), media player (Roku, WDTV, XBMC/OpenELEC PC, etc, or ideally a Kaleidescape), etc than one box that does everything mediocrely like a (no offense) Anthem AVR.



> My biggest concern as far as Anthem products goes is that maybe Anthem is no longer committed to the high-end technology-leader that the D2/D2v has represented for BOTH audio and video. For a while now, I have been looking for a “tell me it ain’t so Joe” answer. I am still hoping...


Unfortunately the D2 is far, far from a technology leader on the video front. It may be above average on the SSP/AVR front but you can do a lot better for about what the price difference was (AVM40, HDMI but no Video processing and AVM50).


----------



## ht guy

Trying to set up ARC on AVM 50v.

Latest firmware installed by local dealer.

Obtained new Tripp-Let Keyspan USB serial adapter.

Using 11" Macbook Air running latest OS and VMWare running Windows 7.

Tried original install disk software. Able to create and save settings. Unable to upload.

Installed latest ARC software. Again, able to create and save settings. Unable to upload.

The ARC software turns the 50v off and on, and can see the serial number, but is unable to upload.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!


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## Nicoff

I am trying to set up a Logitech Harmony Remote with my Anthem D2.

I have several devices connected to the DVD inputs (DVD1-4), how can I tell the Harmony which input I want it to use, say DVD3 for example? I read here that Logitech fixed this for the D2v, but they only give one option (DVD) for the D2. 

Or can I call my device a D2v even if it is a D2? Maybe they share the same codes for remote?


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## tngiloy

ht guy said:


> Trying to set up ARC on AVM 50v.
> 
> Latest firmware installed by local dealer.
> 
> Obtained new Tripp-Let Keyspan USB serial adapter.
> 
> Using 11" Macbook Air running latest OS and VMWare running Windows 7.
> 
> Tried original install disk software. _ Able to create and save settings. Unable to upload._
> 
> Installed latest ARC software. Again, able to create and save settings. Unable to upload.
> 
> The ARC software turns the 50v off and on, and can see the serial number, but is unable to upload.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks!


 
Do you mean you that are able to run ARC, but are not able to upload the ARC correction to your unit?? Or are you unable to get ARC to run at all. Were you able to get the speaker sweeps at the 5 different mic locations and have RC create a solution? 
Just want to make sure I understand where your are getting hung up.


Tom


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## tngiloy

Nicoff said:


> I am trying to set up a Logitech Harmony Remote with my Anthem D2.
> 
> I have several devices connected to the DVD inputs (DVD1-4), how can I tell the Harmony which input I want it to use, say DVD3 for example? I read here that Logitech fixed this for the D2v, but they only give one option (DVD) for the D2.
> 
> Or can I call my device a D2v even if it is a D2? Maybe they share the same codes for remote?



I use a URC remote, not Harmony, but the codes are the same for the D2 and D2v. I've used their D2 codes for both a D2 and D2v without any problem. D2v codes should work for you.


----------



## Scott B

stanger89 said:


> Outside of Dolby Atmos (and other Object-based audio codecs, which are only just now trickling to market) there's been nothing new to add/improve since the D2 came out.
> 
> 
> 
> I really wish Anthem would offer a processor with only video switching, the video processor in my 50V was an utter waste of money for me since I replaced it with a Lumagen Radiance XE which is just in another league, and really only costs about the difference between an AVM50 and an AVM40 to begin with.


I agree completely. I have an AVM50v and do not use any of its video processing capabilities.


----------



## Nicoff

tngiloy said:


> I use a URC remote, not Harmony, but the codes are the same for the D2 and D2v. I've used their D2 codes for both a D2 and D2v without any problem. D2v codes should work for you.


Thanks tngiloy! Using the codes for D2v worked!


----------



## ht guy

tngiloy said:


> Do you mean you that are able to run ARC, but are not able to upload the ARC correction to your unit?? Or are you unable to get ARC to run at all. Were you able to get the speaker sweeps at the 5 different mic locations and have RC create a solution?
> Just want to make sure I understand where your are getting hung up.
> Tom


Yes, I'm able to run ARC, (both measuring and calculating) but am not able to upload the ARC correction to my unit.

Speaker sweeps completed and profile file saved in both original cd (older) and downloaded (current) ARC versions. 

Funny thing is, the ARC software turns the unit off and on, as part of the measuring process (and displays the processor serial number) in the software, but when trying to upload, it runs for 30 seconds and then it's "Processor not found."
John


----------



## thestewman

ht guy said:


> Yes, I'm able to run ARC, (both measuring and calculating) but am not able to upload the ARC correction to my unit.
> 
> Speaker sweeps completed and profile file saved in both original cd (older) and downloaded (current) ARC versions.
> 
> Funny thing is, the ARC software turns the unit off and on, as part of the measuring process (and displays the processor serial number) in the software, but when trying to upload, it runs for 30 seconds and then it's "Processor not found."
> John


For some reason I do not remember ARC turning the unit on and off during upload. But the firmware upgrade does turn it on and off.
Are you somehow getting the incorrect windows exe file to run ?
Confirm which is running. Also confirm you only have 1 version of ARC installed and you are using the UPLOAD button at the top of the ARC toolbar ?


----------



## ht guy

thestewman said:


> For some reason I do not remember ARC turning the unit on and off during upload. But the firmware upgrade does turn it on and off.
> Are you somehow getting the incorrect windows exe file to run ?
> Confirm which is running. Also confirm you only have 1 version of ARC installed and you are using the UPLOAD button at the top of the ARC toolbar ?


It's not during upload but part of the automatic option for using ARC. The software completes the sweeps and does the calculations, no problem. Even recognizes the processor and shows it's serial number during the process. 

When you ask if I am getting the "incorrect exe file to run," are you suggesting I'm accidentally running the firmware update exe? That is definitely not happening.

There is also only one version of ARC running at a time. I am sure of that. I initially tried using only the downloaded (as I would do with other installers - you know, get the latest version) and it failed to even do the sweeps. Then I discovered that the CD has serial number files the installer requires. After I installed that version (in the same folder as the ARC files installed by the CD) it worked to the same point as the original CD install - sweeps and calcs, but alas, failed upload.

If, after the failed automatic run, I go into the manual option and select the setup file (that ARC created from the sweeps and calculations) and select "upload" from the top bar, I get the same result as when the automatic version runs - 30 seconds of waiting and then "processor not found."


----------



## thestewman

ht guy said:


> It's not during upload but part of the automatic option for using ARC. The software completes the sweeps and does the calculations, no problem. Even recognizes the processor and shows it's serial number during the process.
> 
> When you ask if I am getting the "incorrect exe file to run," are you suggesting I'm accidentally running the firmware update exe? That is definitely not happening.
> 
> There is also only one version of ARC running at a time. I am sure of that. I initially tried using only the downloaded (as I would do with other installers - you know, get the latest version) and it failed to even do the sweeps. Then I discovered that the CD has serial number files the installer requires. After I installed that version (in the same folder as the ARC files installed by the CD) it worked to the same point as the original CD install - sweeps and calcs, but alas, failed upload.
> 
> If, after the failed automatic run, I go into the manual option and select the setup file (that ARC created from the sweeps and calculations) and select "upload" from the top bar, I get the same result as when the automatic version runs - 30 seconds of waiting and then "processor not found."


The two files you may be referring to are the Cal file and .file
There is variation depending on the age of your ARC unit
The .cal file should have the serial number of your ARC microphone.
The other file may have your unit serial number and the microphone serial number

I would also check:

The virtual port must be assigned to COM1 through COM6 for installer to run. If installer can not locate preamp, go to Start Menu / Settings / Control Panel / System / Device Manager. Double-click on Ports, then double-click on the adapter. In Port Settings, if it shows COM7 or higher, change to an available port between COM1 and COM6.

If installer says "processor cannot be found", make sure the serial cable is a straight-wired (also known as extension cable - check the cable's package), and it is not null-modem, which looks identical.

RTS/CTS should be turned off in the RS-232 setup menu.

Alao set the speed at the slowest setting


----------



## tngiloy

thestewman said:


> The two files you may be referring to are the Cal file and .file
> There is variation depending on the age of your ARC unit
> The .cal file should have the serial number of your ARC microphone.
> The other file may have your unit serial number and the microphone serial number
> 
> I would also check:
> 
> The virtual port must be assigned to COM1 through COM6 for installer to run. If installer can not locate preamp, go to Start Menu / Settings / Control Panel / System / Device Manager. Double-click on Ports, then double-click on the adapter. In Port Settings, if it shows COM7 or higher, change to an available port between COM1 and COM6.
> 
> If installer says "processor cannot be found", make sure the serial cable is a straight-wired (also known as extension cable - check the cable's package), and it is not null-modem, which looks identical.
> 
> RTS/CTS should be turned off in the RS-232 setup menu.
> 
> Alao set the speed at the slowest setting


 
ht guy,
If Stew's suggestions don't help (and they are all valid concerns and good suggestions) try running just one ARC program on your computer. You will need to copy the 2 files that came with the ARC cd --- the files with the serial #'s of your processor and mic--- to the latest version of ARC that you downloaded from the Anthem website. Then just keep the downloaded ARC and delete the other one. 


Also go to the Tripp-Lite website and make sure you have downloaded the latest driver for the serial/usb adapter. Since you are you using a Mac with VM firmware I would think you should download the win7 driver. I know Bob P runs an apple with Bootcamp, and he can verify which driver to download to get things running correctly.


Anthem tech help is available thru their website by email or phone help also. They may have run for you.into this problem before and have a fix


It does not make sense that you can run ARC, but not upload the correction, but its probably something simple. Keep trying til you get it to work. ARC is wonderful and I think you will find the effort needed to get it to download correctly will be rewarded with the results ARC produces in your system.


Tom


----------



## Nicoff

What I don't use in my Anthem D2:
-No Composite-Video In or Out
-No S-Video In or Out
-No Component-Video In or Out
-No Analog Audio out
-No RCA Main Audio Out (I use XLR outputs)

What I would like more of:
-XLR inputs
-More HDMI inputs (the D2v has this)

When you look at the back of the D2 or D2V, without those analog input/outputs it looks as if the processor could be about half its current size. We are paying for a lot of stuff that we no longer use and probably never plan to use again.


----------



## Nicoff

dbphd said:


> I just set SACD output to be DSD in the Oppo 105 menu. I hadn't tried that before. I'm impressed with the sound. Of course, speaker management is disabled, but I don't notice a hole even though I have no center channel, and the KEF 107/2s don't need to be supplemented by subs for music. If the analog-DSP provision really is transparent, I think I'll take analog DSD surround from the 105 to the D2. Of course, HDMI will be connected for Blu-ray, so I can compare the two connection schemes. I'm eager to try the Anthem ARC for 4.2 (or 6.2 if the D2 can do it).
> 
> Thanks guys,
> db


dbphd,
Did you try it with ARC yet? What road did you decide to take?


----------



## dbphd

Nicoff said:


> dbphd,
> Did you try it with ARC yet? What road did you decide to take?


I appreciate all the help I've received on this thread, but it occurred to me that the Cary Cinema 11a I had before the Parasound JC-2 BP did accept DSD via HDMI, although I didn't use it. So I bought one to try, even though its HDMI handshakes may be buggy. The 11a has an elaborate setup menu so I'll use that for speaker management and let the Oppo send bitstream. The Cary's claim to fame was its excellent sound quality. 

With the help of Dan Wemmer of Cary and Richard Schram of Parasound, I've come up with the following setup plan: Oppo and Sony HDMI to the Cary, stereo from the Cary through the JC-2 BP to the amps, surround from the Cary directly to amps, SW to Velodyne SMS-1 bass manager. Analog stereo from the Oppo and Sony will continue to go to the JC-2 BP.

For now, the only acoustic room correction will be that provided by the SMS-1 for the subs.

db


----------



## ht guy

tngiloy said:


> ht guy,
> If Stew's suggestions don't help (and they are all valid concerns and good suggestions) try running just one ARC program on your computer. You will need to copy the 2 files that came with the ARC cd --- the files with the serial #'s of your processor and mic--- to the latest version of ARC that you downloaded from the Anthem website. Then just keep the downloaded ARC and delete the other one.
> 
> 
> Also go to the Tripp-Lite website and make sure you have downloaded the latest driver for the serial/usb adapter. Since you are you using a Mac with VM firmware I would think you should download the win7 driver. I know Bob P runs an apple with Bootcamp, and he can verify which driver to download to get things running correctly.
> 
> 
> Anthem tech help is available thru their website by email or phone help also. They may have run for you.into this problem before and have a fix
> 
> 
> It does not make sense that you can run ARC, but not upload the correction, but its probably something simple. Keep trying til you get it to work. ARC is wonderful and I think you will find the effort needed to get it to download correctly will be rewarded with the results ARC produces in your system.
> 
> 
> Tom


Tom,

Thanks much to you and theStewman.

I will def be working on the setup this weekend and will report back.

Have also contacted Anthem CS. They have indicated bootcamp may be necessary vs. running vmware. My only question is - If so, why can I sweep and save profiles? Maybe the answer is VMware handles the USB mic ok but as it's not native, can't handle the USB/serial adapter/serial connection? Regardless, I'm going to borrow a laptop with bootcamp (and, if necessary, an actual PC, yii!)

But long before I get to that, I am going to follow the excellent advice I've received and will report back.


----------



## Kevin. W

I have a line on a AVM50v3D(NIB) for $3k CDN(no receipt). Would that be a fair price? Also what would the Anthem offer me over a Denon AVR A100 that I am currently using as a pre/pro with my MCA 50


----------



## AVfile

Kevin. W said:


> I have a line on a AVM50v3D(NIB) for $3k CDN(no receipt). Would that be a fair price? Also what would the Anthem offer me over a Denon AVR A100 that I am currently using as a pre/pro with my MCA 50



Great deal. You will have a cure for your upgraditis, plus hopefully ARC (make sure you get a microphone and CD with matching serial number). First thing you will notice is clearer dialog and a more robust sound, even without ARC.


----------



## Kevin. W

AVfile said:


> Great deal. You will have a cure for your upgraditis, plus hopefully ARC (make sure you get a microphone and CD with matching serial number). First thing you will notice is clearer dialog and a more robust sound, even without ARC.



It comes with ARC hardware and soft? think Anthem will update it to support Atoms through a new board or software


----------



## fmzip

My new (second hand) D2 with ARC is coming tomorrow. From reading this it appears I use the CD that comes with the ARC kit? There is also reference to downloading the latest ARC software but I don't see anything listed for ARC software under the D2:

http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software.php 

As this thread is very long, can someone point me in the right direction as to the proper steps to get me going please? I will be running it out a Windows 7 PC 64bit. Does the kit come with a cable, do I need to buy one if so does anyone have a link to the correct type?

Thanks in advance


----------



## drhankz

fmzip said:


> My new (second hand) D2 with ARC is coming tomorrow. From reading this it appears I use the CD that comes with the ARC kit? There is also reference to downloading the latest ARC software but I don't see anything listed for ARC software under the D2:
> 
> http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software.php
> 
> As this thread is very long, can someone point me in the right direction as to the proper steps to get me going please? I will be running it out a Windows 7 PC 64bit. Does the kit come with a cable, do I need to buy one if so does anyone have a link to the correct type?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Start with *PAGE 1* of this Thread - all the steps are there


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC v3.0.2 as found in Anthem's downloads for the D2v is also what's used for the D2. Do not install ARC from the original D2 ARC install disc. Instead install the v3.0.2 version. 

To do that, download and unzip that version. Dive into the resulting folder to find the Setup.Exe program -- the installer itself. Load your original ARC install CD. If that automatically launches its installer simply Quit out of that. Dive into the loaded CD to find the Setup.Exe program in it. In that same location you will find two files with names made up of numbers. The numbers are the serial number of your D2 and the serial number of your ARC mic. Check that these numbers match the actual serial numbers. If not, call Anthem tech support and they can email you the correct two files. These files are your ARC license and the mic calibration data for your specific ARC mic. 

Copy the correct two files, both of them, from the ARC CD into the folder where you found Setup.Exe in the downloaded version. 

Now eject the ARC CD. Save it in case you ever need to copy those two files in the future. 

Run Setup.exe from the v3.0.2 downloaded version. It will install ARC and copy those two files where they need to go as part of that. 
--Bob


----------



## fmzip

^^^^ thank you Bob!


----------



## thestewman

fmzip said:


> My new (second hand) D2 with ARC is coming tomorrow. From reading this it appears I use the CD that comes with the ARC kit? There is also reference to downloading the latest ARC software but I don't see anything listed for ARC software under the D2:
> 
> http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software.php
> 
> As this thread is very long, can someone point me in the right direction as to the proper steps to get me going please? I will be running it out a Windows 7 PC 64bit. Does the kit come with a cable, do I need to buy one if so does anyone have a link to the correct type?
> 
> Thanks in advance


If not included with your purchase you will need a Keyspan USB Serial Adapter
model USA-19HS made by Tripplite
There should be a RS232 cable with the ARC kit


----------



## fmzip

^ Thank you guys for saving me a bunch of time searching


----------



## ht guy

ht guy said:


> Tom,
> 
> Thanks much to you and theStewman.
> 
> I will def be working on the setup this weekend and will report back.
> 
> Have also contacted Anthem CS. They have indicated bootcamp may be necessary vs. running vmware. My only question is - If so, why can I sweep and save profiles? Maybe the answer is VMware handles the USB mic ok but as it's not native, can't handle the USB/serial adapter/serial connection? Regardless, I'm going to borrow a laptop with bootcamp (and, if necessary, an actual PC, yii!)
> 
> But long before I get to that, I am going to follow the excellent advice I've received and will report back.


...and the report is...


SUCCESS!


The difference was bootcamp. 

Now I see what all the fuss is about. Best my system has ever sounded. Thank-you Anthem! (big upgrade from my very good Yamaha) And thank-you AVS users!

As an aside, I previously had my turntable hooked up via the CD input, but it shows "N/A" for EQ(?,) so I switched it to the TAPE input.


----------



## ht guy

tngiloy said:


> ht guy,
> If Stew's suggestions don't help (and they are all valid concerns and good suggestions) try running just one ARC program on your computer. You will need to copy the 2 files that came with the ARC cd --- the files with the serial #'s of your processor and mic--- to the latest version of ARC that you downloaded from the Anthem website. Then just keep the downloaded ARC and delete the other one.
> 
> 
> Also go to the Tripp-Lite website and make sure you have downloaded the latest driver for the serial/usb adapter. Since you are you using a Mac with VM firmware I would think you should download the win7 driver. I know Bob P runs an apple with Bootcamp, and he can verify which driver to download to get things running correctly.
> 
> 
> Anthem tech help is available thru their website by email or phone help also. They may have run for you.into this problem before and have a fix
> 
> 
> It does not make sense that you can run ARC, but not upload the correction, but its probably something simple. Keep trying til you get it to work. ARC is wonderful and I think you will find the effort needed to get it to download correctly will be rewarded with the results ARC produces in your system.
> 
> Tom


...and Tom, you are 100% correct. I have been rewarded.

Wow. What a difference!


----------



## RobDec

Hi everyone
I have another problem with the AVM50v 3d. I was watching football on directv and was switching between two channels. Both games are in 5.1 pl IIx but as I was going back and forth games the front panel was swiching to 2 PL IIx. Is this something common for tv channels? This happened while watching the actual games

Also occasionally the "on the fly" trim levels changed but then changed back to their proper setting. (they were delayed)

Please comment as I really like this unit

Rob


----------



## tngiloy

ht guy said:


> ...and Tom, you are 100% correct. I have been rewarded.
> 
> Wow. What a difference!



Please post your ARC charts and targets page. Members here may be able to help you get it sounding even better. And list your speaker setup (# of speakers and subs, etc.).


Tom


----------



## greyflag

RobDec said:


> Hi everyone
> I have another problem with the AVM50v 3d. I was watching football on directv and was switching between two channels. Both games are in 5.1 pl IIx but as I was going back and forth games the front panel was swiching to 2 PL IIx. Is this something common for tv channels? This happened while watching the actual games
> 
> Also occasionally the "on the fly" trim levels changed but then changed back to their proper setting. (they were delayed)
> 
> Please comment as I really like this unit
> 
> Rob



I have had this happen many times with my AVM50 and a Motorola cable box. I cure it by switching to a different source (ie: DVD), then back to the TV source. The other source device does not have to be on. I'll leave it to the more technically astute to explain why (I assume that it is a HDMI handshake issue). Not elegant, but it does work.

Glenn


----------



## RobDec

Thanks for the quick fix Glenn!
I think I solved the other issue too (about trim levels changing) They don't go to their proper settings if I access them just after I switched to that audio format.. Thus far the solution is to wait a few more seconds. Curious if anyone else had these issues?

Rob


----------



## thestewman

ht guy said:


> ...and the report is...
> 
> 
> SUCCESS!
> 
> 
> The difference was bootcamp.
> 
> Now I see what all the fuss is about. Best my system has ever sounded. Thank-you Anthem! (big upgrade from my very good Yamaha) And thank-you AVS users!
> 
> As an aside, I previously had my turntable hooked up via the CD input, but it shows "N/A" for EQ(?,) so I switched it to the TAPE input.


In many instances since the turntable is 2 channel analog input users will set the source as analog direct for an attempt at purity of the analog signal. This makes EQ N/A. Myabe this is why EQ wa N/A.
If you have the availability try setting up multiple sources at the CD input. You can name them Phono 1,Phono 2 etc.
Then set one as Analog Direct, one as Analog Dig, and one as Analog Dig multi channel. The you can listen and decide which you prefer. You might even want to go into ARC and reconfigure the speakers for Music as only having the Right and Left front. Then use that ARC config for listening to phono music.
We call this "Fun and Games with Anthem "


----------



## stanger89

Kevin. W said:


> think Anthem will update it to support Atoms through a new board or software


It's unlikely, Atmos basically requires an entirely new platform since it requires more output channels than the current platform supports, at least two more.


----------



## tngiloy

ht guy said:


> As an aside, I previously had my turntable hooked up via the CD input, but it shows "N/A" for EQ(?,) so I switched it to the TAPE input.


 
Anthem pre-pro's do not have dedicated 'phono' inputs. Unless your turntable has a built in pre-amp, you will need to add a phono pre-amp between your turntable and the D2.


Since a turntable is an analog source you will need to go into the D2 menu and set up the phono in the ANALOG INPUT LEVEL section and adjust the level for the input that the turntable/phono pre-amp is connected to.








 



Tom


----------



## ht guy

tngiloy said:


> Anthem pre-pro's do not have dedicated 'phono' inputs. Unless your turntable has a built in pre-amp, you will need to add a phono pre-amp between your turntable and the D2.
> 
> Since a turntable is an analog source you will need to go into the D2 menu and set up the phono in the ANALOG INPUT LEVEL section and adjust the level for the input that the turntable/phono pre-amp is connected to.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEzOVL97Lfc
> Tom


Thanks Tom. Understood. Previously obtained a pre-amp and had it hooked up to the CD input. My issue was my lack of understanding about selecting the proper source for the CD input. Got that now. Thanks!


----------



## ht guy

thestewman said:


> In many instances since the turntable is 2 channel analog input users will set the source as analog direct for an attempt at purity of the analog signal. This makes EQ N/A. Myabe this is why EQ wa N/A.
> If you have the availability try setting up multiple sources at the CD input. You can name them Phono 1,Phono 2 etc.
> Then set one as Analog Direct, one as Analog Dig, and one as Analog Dig multi channel. The you can listen and decide which you prefer. You might even want to go into ARC and reconfigure the speakers for Music as only having the Right and Left front. Then use that ARC config for listening to phono music.
> We call this "Fun and Games with Anthem "


Excellent. Got it.

Thanks!


----------



## tngiloy

ht guy said:


> Thanks Tom. Understood. Previously obtained a pre-amp and had it hooked up to the CD input. My issue was my lack of understanding about selecting the proper source for the CD input. Got that now. Thanks!


 
I don't mean to sound like a broken record, but please make sure to adjust the ANALOG INPUT LEVELS in the D2's setup menu for the input you have chosen for your turntable. This is an important step when connecting any equipment by analog RCA or XLR cables. The input level for your turntable may be OK without adjustment, but if its too hot it may make your phono sound harsh. My Ayre cd , which is connected via XLR, needs to be attenuated to -13 dB in the ANALOG INPUT LEVELS to get to the right level in the Anthem setup. It seems to do more than just volume matching.
You do not need to worry about digital connections like HDMI, toslink or coax.


Tom


----------



## metallicafreak

*D2 3D pass through?*

Hi all
Been a while since I posted. I'm thinks about upgrading my projector to 3D. How would my D2 handle the video? Can it pass the 3D video or do I have to make other arrangements. 


FREAK!


----------



## AVfile

metallicafreak said:


> Hi all
> 
> Been a while since I posted. I'm thinks about upgrading my projector to 3D. How would my D2 handle the video? Can it pass the 3D video or do I have to make other arrangements.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FREAK!



The D2 can't. At a minimum you would need a Blu-Ray player with dual HDMI outputs to split the audio (to the D2) and video (directly to the PJ).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ To do 3D video pass-through you would need a D2v / 3D, i.e., a D2v (not a D2) with the 3D hardware upgrade.
--Bob


----------



## BBlutarsky

Desparately hoping I can get some help!

I have an Anthem D2 which has been doing well for for years. Suddenly it appears that I am having a problem with HDMI inputs. HiDef cable box (HDMI 1) gets video feed but no sound. BluRay player (HDMI 2) cant get past initial loading. First thought it was the cable box which was replaced with new unit --> same problem. Tried swapping cable bow HDMI from 1 to 4, without any change (video but no sound). Tried a new HDMI cable --> no change.

I have done a hard reset (unplugged Anthem unit), checked to make sure the settings for components did not somehow get changed, etc. Any other ideas?

The unit cost me a bundle, and the place I purchased locally isn't even in business anymore. Wondered if there is a know issue with the HDMI input. Any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I'm assuming you know what you are doing, since you've had the D2 for so long. Obviously there are settings mistakes that could cause this, and I'm assuming you've checked to make sure, e.g., the Setup > Source Setup you are using actually specifies HDMI Digital as the source of its audio. If you've not checked this, then that's the place to start. It is quite easy to screw things up. For example, if you changed the Source Setup to use Component Video as an experiment, that has the side effect of SWITCHING THE AUDIO AS WELL since obviously you can't have HDMI audio coming in on Component Video.

Similarly, try running HDMI from the cable box direct to an HDMI TV to make sure you haven't somehow altered the settings in the HDMI cable box to disable HDMI Audio output altogether.

So ignoring settings mistakes, that leaves settings corruption, firmware corruption, or a hardware failure.

Jot down your settings, then do a Reload Factory Defaults on the D2. Make only the minimum necessary setting changes to test if the problem still exists.

If it does, Reload Factory Defaults again, then re-install the v1.33 firmware in the D2. Once again, make the minimum necessary settings changes to see if the problem still exists.

If you've still got a problem, call Anthem Tech Support and they can help you diagnose this further.
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ I'm assuming you know what you are doing, since you've had the D2 for so long. Obviously there are settings mistakes that could cause this, and I'm assuming you've checked to make sure, e.g., the Setup > Source Setup you are using actually specifies HDMI Digital as the source of its audio. If you've not checked this, then that's the place to start. It is quite easy to screw things up. For example, if you changed the Source Setup to use Component Video as an experiment, that has the side effect of SWITCHING THE AUDIO AS WELL since obviously you can't have HDMI audio coming in on Component Video.
> 
> Similarly, try running HDMI from the cable box direct to an HDMI TV to make sure you haven't somehow altered the settings in the HDMI cable box to disable HDMI Audio output altogether.
> 
> So ignoring settings mistakes, that leaves settings corruption, firmware corruption, or a hardware failure.
> 
> Jot down your settings, then do a Reload Factory Defaults on the D2. Make only the minimum necessary setting changes to test if the problem still exists.
> 
> If it does, Reload Factory Defaults again, then re-install the v1.33 firmware in the D2. Once again, make the minimum necessary settings changes to see if the problem still exists.
> 
> If you've still got a problem, call Anthem Tech Support and they can help you diagnose this further.
> --Bob


One note of precaution
*********Before you reload the factory Settings make sure you save the User Settings first**********


----------



## BBlutarsky

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ I'm assuming you know what you are doing, since you've had the D2 for so long. Obviously there are settings mistakes that could cause this, and I'm assuming you've checked to make sure, e.g., the Setup > Source Setup you are using actually specifies HDMI Digital as the source of its audio. If you've not checked this, then that's the place to start. It is quite easy to screw things up. For example, if you changed the Source Setup to use Component Video as an experiment, that has the side effect of SWITCHING THE AUDIO AS WELL since obviously you can't have HDMI audio coming in on Component Video.
> 
> Similarly, try running HDMI from the cable box direct to an HDMI TV to make sure you haven't somehow altered the settings in the HDMI cable box to disable HDMI Audio output altogether.
> 
> So ignoring settings mistakes, that leaves settings corruption, firmware corruption, or a hardware failure.
> 
> Jot down your settings, then do a Reload Factory Defaults on the D2. Make only the minimum necessary setting changes to test if the problem still exists.
> 
> If it does, Reload Factory Defaults again, then re-install the v1.33 firmware in the D2. Once again, make the minimum necessary settings changes to see if the problem still exists.
> 
> If you've still got a problem, call Anthem Tech Support and they can help you diagnose this further.
> --Bob


Thanks Bob.

Unfortunately I didn't tweak the Anthem at all, but swapped out a Time Warner cable box that was malfunctioning. Coincident with this was non-function of my BluRay player (seems like there is no handshake between unit and Anthem). When I got yet another cable box and had same problem I realized my problem lied on the Anthem side. Seems weird to me that I get HDMI video feed but no audio. Probably an explanation for that somewhere, but I dont know it!

I have gone into menus and checked settings - all looks good. I took an optical cable and ran digital audio from cable box to Anthem then reassigned setting to reflect digital optical in - and now I have some sound. 

Im guessing Ill need to do the firmware reset. Is there a link to information on how to do this? I am running virgin firmware at the moment and havent done this before.

Thanks for your help.


----------



## gtsum

seriously considering anthem for my new front end...I need to read up on this thread!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 2


----------



## tngiloy

BBlutarsky said:


> Im guessing Ill need to do the firmware reset. Is there a link to information on how to do this? I am running virgin firmware at the moment and havent done this before.
> 
> Thanks for your help.


 
Bob has a link on page one of this thread for a 'belt and suspender firmware upgrade. Read it.


On the anthemav.com web home page > product support > software &firmware updates > 
D2 Upgrades, Utilities and Serial Commands (v1.33) .


Download and unzip. Along with the firmware is a pdf file of the D2 manual that you may want to save to your desktop for future help.


Click on the .exe file and the page shown in the thumbnail will pop up:


Follow the instructions exactly. 


If you are using a laptop you will need a Tripplite USA-19 hs Keyspan usb/serial adapter along with the serial cable that came with your D2.


The firmware upgrade takes a while so *make sure that your laptop is plugged in during the process*.


If anyone else here has any suggestions, please chime in.


BBlutarsky,
Hope that this fixes your problem. If not contact Anthem tech for further help.


----------



## thestewman

tngiloy said:


> If you are using a laptop you will need a Tripplite USA-19 hs Keyspan usb/serial adapter along with the serial cable that came with your D2.
> 
> If anyone else here has any suggestions, please chime in.


OK I will !

BBLUTARSKY

Make sure you have the latest driver for the Keyspan. Check the Tripplite Keyspan web site. 

Good Luck


----------



## boostie

*Hdmi issue*

Just installed a sim2 projector and have an issue.

D2v won't operate with a optical powered hdmi cable.

Anthem just locks up when this is plugged in. All works fine with standard hdmi but go to the optical and zip.

Plugged in the optical without the power(USb powered) and anthem works fine and actually works but takes time to connect to the projector. Seems as if the anthem is putting out enough power via the hdmi itself for the cable?

Any ideas how to rectify. Installer suggested the optical hdmi was the way to go for future proof with 4k etc. have contacted the installer and waiting to hear back.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sounds like your power source isn't working. Also check to see if the cable is directional and be sure you've installed it the right way around. Also check to see if there are switches controlling the handshakes at either end of the cable. 

If the Anthem "locks up" more than just not sending a signal, the powered cable may be faulty -- putting power incorrectly into the HDMI socket. 
--Bob


----------



## metallicafreak

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ To do 3D video pass-through you would need a D2v / 3D, i.e., a D2v (not a D2) with the 3D hardware upgrade.
> --Bob


 Thanks, Bob. I understand that Anthem is no longer doing the D2 upgrades. Any third parties doing it?


----------



## thestewman

metallicafreak said:


> Thanks, Bob. I understand that Anthem is no longer doing the D2 upgrades. Any third parties doing it?


There are several alternatives which work as well without having a D2v3D.
Probably depends on what type of 3D your converted projector can handle.
You can use a 3D Bluray player like the OPPO or Sony with dual HDMI outputs and run the video direct using the D2 for audio only.
Or I rip my 3D Blu Rays to a SBS (side by side) MKV file and use a media player to send them to my 3D display.
I have never used the Anthem Pass Through yet for anything. Unless you have Blu Ray 3D there is not other use for it.
It will not pass through 4K or any of the new HDCP formats.
And there are a limited number of good 3D Blurays so investing in the upgrade may not be a good value.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ What he said.

I'd be very surprised if any 3rd party is offering D2 to D2v/3D upgrades as the parts involved would cost pretty much the same as a new D2v/3D. Even Anthem never really offered an upgrade. It was more of a limited-time, subsidized trade-in to keep the dealers from having to take a lot of used D2 units into stock when the D2v launched: Send in your D2 and cash and get a D2v (different box) back. The 3D upgrade came later.
--Bob


----------



## dweltman

Are they still doing the D2V to D2V 3D upgrade?


----------



## tranle

dweltman said:


> Are they still doing the D2V to D2V 3D upgrade?


I did that a few month ago and depending how old is your D2V there is a different kit.
Above Serial Number: 142626 - $500
Below Serial Number: 142626 - $1500
And you cannot order it directly from Anthem you have to go through a reseller.


----------



## RobDec

Hello again
I have solved all problems with my AVM50v 3d. But yet another problem. I had Planet of the Apes on 3d. After the movie I took the disc out and put in another bluray Jurassic Park. When I switched from 3d to bluray the display went black, and the AVM50v went blank also.. The only light was the MAIN light in upper left hand corner. After about 15 to 20 seconds it came back and I watched the rest of the movie with no problem.
Also when changing channels on Directv I get a gray staticky screen for about a second. only about 5 or 6 times.
Are these problems a handshake issue?
Any help is appreciated!
Rob


----------



## AVfile

RobDec said:


> When I switched from 3d to bluray the display went black, and the AVM50v went blank also.. The only light was the MAIN light in upper left hand corner. After about 15 to 20 seconds it came back and I watched the rest of the movie with no problem.
> Also when changing channels on Directv I get a gray staticky screen for about a second. only about 5 or 6 times.


You have 3 inputs setup on the AVM: 3D, Bluray, Directv? If so what are the video output configs for each set to?

I am guessing they are all different: Through, 1080p24, 1080p60 respectively. This is optimal but unfortunately will require a handshake each time you switch inputs, but not when changing TV channels.


----------



## RobDec

RobDec said:


> Hello again
> I have solved all problems with my AVM50v 3d. But yet another problem. I had Planet of the Apes on 3d. After the movie I took the disc out and put in another bluray Jurassic Park. When I switched from 3d to bluray the display went black, and the AVM50v went blank also.. The only light was the MAIN light in upper left hand corner. After about 15 to 20 seconds it came back and I watched the rest of the movie with no problem.
> Also when changing channels on Directv I get a gray staticky screen for about a second. only about 5 or 6 times.
> Are these problems a handshake issue?
> Any help is appreciated!
> Rob


Talked to the fine folks at Anthem, Apparently what I did was switching from 3d to 2d bluray will the disc was still loading. Basically a timing issue when switching.

Rob


----------



## RobDec

Hi
Was wondering if there would be a problem hooking a turntable with a separate phono preamp to the AVM50v (possably more wear and tear)?
Also im utilizing all 4 VIDEO OUT CONFIG. But 1,3,and 4 are identical. Should I use just one VIDEO OUTPUT CONFIG. for the identical ones or keep utilizing all four?

Happy Holidays to all, Rob


----------



## AVfile

It's your decision...

See my previous post. You want to minimize the chance of anything being set different or changing some say without you remembering.


----------



## tngiloy

RobDec;29614962 Hi
Was wondering if there would be a problem hooking a turntable with a separate phono preamp to the AVM50v (possably more wear and tear)? Also im utilizing all 4 VIDEO OUT CONFIG. But 1 said:


> The only wear and tear will be to the phonograph needle. I don't know which preamp you are using, but most have only analog out (RCA or XLR). You can connect to any unused RCA input or the XLR 2 channel input on the rear panel of the AVM50v.
> Since its an analog connection, be sure to adjust the ANALOG INPUT LEVEL in the Anthem's setup menu.
> 
> Each VIDEO OUT CONFIG can be used on multiple sources, so there is no reason that you can't use the same configuration on all the appropriate sources. I have two different configurations -- one for 1080p/60 and one for 1080p/24. Some users with multiple displays, say a TV and a projector, may need to use more configurations. It doesn't hurt to have three video config setups the same, just a waste of your time to set them each up.
> 
> 
> Tom


----------



## RobDec

Thanks Tom and AVfile.

That's good news!

Rob


----------



## Supertaint

Hopefully this is a silly question...

I am trying to record vinyl with my anthem avm50v. I have the phono preamp hooked to an analog input. I set input to Analog DSP. Everything plays fine through the speakers. I have a coax connected to digital record out, then to an spdif/usb converter (peachtree x1) then to computer. 16 bit/44.1khz.

Pushing record on the anthem changes to record for a few seconds and then it resorts back to main. The manual is unfortunately not too helpful.

I don't want to spend more money on a usb preamp, so is there a "free" way to get this to work?


----------



## thestewman

Supertaint said:


> Hopefully this is a silly question...
> 
> I am trying to record vinyl with my anthem avm50v. I have the phono preamp hooked to an analog input. I set input to Analog DSP. Everything plays fine through the speakers. I have a coax connected to digital record out, then to an spdif/usb converter (peachtree x1) then to computer. 16 bit/44.1khz.
> 
> Pushing record on the anthem changes to record for a few seconds and then it resorts back to main. The manual is unfortunately not too helpful.
> 
> I don't want to spend more money on a usb preamp, so is there a "free" way to get this to work?


Sounds like your connections and Anthem setup is Ok.

You have to have a n interface or software recording application 

What are you using for the computer interface or recording application ?

Something like Audacity


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Supertaint said:


> Hopefully this is a silly question...
> 
> I am trying to record vinyl with my anthem avm50v. I have the phono preamp hooked to an analog input. I set input to Analog DSP. Everything plays fine through the speakers. I have a coax connected to digital record out, then to an spdif/usb converter (peachtree x1) then to computer. 16 bit/44.1khz.
> 
> Pushing record on the anthem changes to record for a few seconds and then it resorts back to main. The manual is unfortunately not too helpful.
> 
> I don't want to spend more money on a usb preamp, so is there a "free" way to get this to work?


Not a silly question. Record is just more flexible/complicated than you've realized.

Record is another "signal Path" through the Anthem. When you press Record, you then get to pick a Source, which might be different from what's currently playing on the Main Path. If you don't do that quickly enough, the Anthem times out and goes back to letting you control the Main Path -- its default state.

If you want the Source currently playing on the Main Path to be what gets Recorded, press Record, then press Copy (for "Copy Main -> Record").

This is how you do it manually, i.e., for each time you want to Record. If, instead, you know you ALWAYS want to Record only what's playing on the Main Path, you can set that up as the default at the bottom of the Setup > Source Setup menu (i.e., below all the individual Source lines). See Section 3.6 of the Manual.

See Section 3.9 of the Manual for setting the sample rate and bit size used when digitizing an AnalogDSP, Main Path input Source for output on the Digital Record output. Be sure to pick a sample rate and 16/24 bit size that your digital audio recorder can handle.

See Secton 4.2 of the Manual for how Record works as its own signal path, independent of Main, Zone 2, and Zone 3 selections.

See Section 4.3 of the Manual for more info on selecting to Record whatever is playing on the Main Path -- i.e., manually each time vs. automatic default.

Note that the Rec button on the remote only works when the remote is set to control the Main path (its normal state). The normal way to record would be -- with the remote in its default mode of controlling the Main path -- select the Source you want Main to play, then press Rec. If copying from Main to Record has not been set as the default by setting Always in Setup > Source Setup, then also press Copy now to do that for this one instance.

Note also that only the Main Path can digitize an Analog audio input Source -- done by specifying AnalogDSP in Setup > Source Setup. So if you want an Analog audio input to get recorded via the *DIGITAL* Record output, you have to select that Analog input as the Source (set to AnalogDSP) for the Main Path and then Record while also Copying Main -> Record. If you merely press Record and select that Analog input Source directly (independent of what's playing on the Main Path), the *DIGITAL* record output will remain silent. (The Record Path can not digitize Analog input -- it has to rely on the Main Path to do that for it.)

-----------------------------------------------------

ETA: The settings described in Section 3.9 apply whenever Analog audio is Digitized on input in the Anthem. It may very well be that you need to lower that to 44.1KHz when using the Digital Record output as described above. I.e., so that the digital output stream is at a rate your digital recorder can handle.

Just remember to set that BACK to a higher value when listening to your AnalogDSP sources normally. That digitizes them at the better, higher rate, before feeding the resulting digital audio into, say, ARC for processing.
--Bob


----------



## rsinclair

I have a pair of Astro A5 wireless headphones that I want to connect in a "universal" way to the d2v—in other words, have the headphones work regardless of what Source input is selected.

The headphones have a breakout box with an Optical In, Optical Out, and a 3.5mm Aux In. (Link to headphone manual PDF)

Currently I have the headphones connected just to my Xbox One: the Xbox is connected via HDMI to the d2v, and then I run an Optical cable as well from the Xbox to the headphone's Optical In. That way if the wife needs it quiet, I can simply mute the d2v and don the headphones seamlessly, since the Xbox is outputting to both the d2v and headphones simultaneously. Works great!

The challenge is that I also have a PS4, Wii U, Xbox 360, HTPC and an Apple TV connected to the d2v as well, and the headphone setup doesn't work for any of those.

I was wondering if there was a way to connect the Optical In on the headphone's breakout box to some kind of audio Output on the d2v that I could assign to all of my Sources, while they are also connected natively via HDMI.

My first thought was to connect an Optical cable from the Optical In on the headphone breakout box to an Optical Out on the d2v and set all of my Sources to that Optical channel, but after several years of ownership I was surprised to see the d2v doesn't even have Optical outs (!). I did see that it has two Coaxial-style digital audio outputs, however. I happen to have an Optical > Coax Audio converter (AC powered) which I attempted to hook up.

So I ran the headphone breakout Optical In to the Digital 1 audio out on the d2v, and tinkered with some of the Source Setup to see if there was a way to map each Source to Digital 1. There didn't seem to be a way to do this. Also peeked in Menu 9. ADC / Audio Output where I found a reference to Digital 1 and Digital 2, but that didn't seem applicable either.

Is there any way to do what I'm trying to do? Maybe using the 3.5mm Aux In on the headphone breakout box instead? (though I would prefer digital audio over analog.) Try to figure out a way to connect the headphone breakout box to HDMI Out 2 on the d2v for simultaneous output?

Thanks,
R


----------



## thestewman

Supertaint said:


> Hopefully this is a silly question...
> 
> I am trying to record vinyl with my anthem avm50v. I have the phono preamp hooked to an analog input. I set input to Analog DSP. Everything plays fine through the speakers. I have a coax connected to digital record out, then to an spdif/usb converter (peachtree x1) then to computer. 16 bit/44.1khz.
> 
> Pushing record on the anthem changes to record for a few seconds and then it resorts back to main. The manual is unfortunately not too helpful.
> 
> I don't want to spend more money on a usb preamp, so is there a "free" way to get this to work?





thestewman said:


> Sounds like your connections and Anthem setup is Ok.
> 
> You have to have a n interface or software recording application
> 
> What are you using for the computer interface or recording application ?
> 
> Something like Audacity


I am still assuming you do not have software for recording your vinyl since you did not confirm otherwise
Appropriately this appeared yesterday. There is a great step by step procedure for using Audacity the free digital recording software

BREATHE NEW LIFE INTO DUSTY VINYL BY DIGITIZING YOUR LPs (THE RIGHT WAY)


----------



## thestewman

rsinclair said:


> I have a pair of Astro A5 wireless headphones that I want to connect in a "universal" way to the d2v—in other words, have the headphones work regardless of what Source input is selected.
> 
> The headphones have a breakout box with an Optical In, Optical Out, and a 3.5mm Aux In. (Link to headphone manual PDF)
> 
> Currently I have the headphones connected just to my Xbox One: the Xbox is connected via HDMI to the d2v, and then I run an Optical cable as well from the Xbox to the headphone's Optical In. That way if the wife needs it quiet, I can simply mute the d2v and don the headphones seamlessly, since the Xbox is outputting to both the d2v and headphones simultaneously. Works great!
> 
> The challenge is that I also have a PS4, Wii U, Xbox 360, HTPC and an Apple TV connected to the d2v as well, and the headphone setup doesn't work for any of those.
> 
> I was wondering if there was a way to connect the Optical In on the headphone's breakout box to some kind of audio Output on the d2v that I could assign to all of my Sources, while they are also connected natively via HDMI.
> 
> My first thought was to connect an Optical cable from the Optical In on the headphone breakout box to an Optical Out on the d2v and set all of my Sources to that Optical channel, but after several years of ownership I was surprised to see the d2v doesn't even have Optical outs (!). I did see that it has two Coaxial-style digital audio outputs, however. I happen to have an Optical > Coax Audio converter (AC powered) which I attempted to hook up.
> 
> So I ran the headphone breakout Optical In to the Digital 1 audio out on the d2v, and tinkered with some of the Source Setup to see if there was a way to map each Source to Digital 1. There didn't seem to be a way to do this. Also peeked in Menu 9. ADC / Audio Output where I found a reference to Digital 1 and Digital 2, but that didn't seem applicable either.
> 
> Is there any way to do what I'm trying to do? Maybe using the 3.5mm Aux In on the headphone breakout box instead? (though I would prefer digital audio over analog.) Try to figure out a way to connect the headphone breakout box to HDMI Out 2 on the d2v for simultaneous output?
> 
> Thanks,
> R


How about a cable from the front D2 headphone connector to your headphone AUX input. A 1/4 in mic plug on one end and a 3.5 stereo connector on the other end. Should be able to listen to everything going to the D2 and controllable from the D2 headphone volume control.
You will need to keep your USB cable plugged in to the xbox or use a wall wort supply


----------



## Supertaint

Bob Pariseau said:


> Not a silly question. Record is just more flexible/complicated than you've realized.
> 
> Record is another "signal Path" through the Anthem. When you press Record, you then get to pick a Source, which might be different from what's currently playing on the Main Path. If you don't do that quickly enough, the Anthem times out and goes back to letting you control the Main Path -- its default state.
> 
> If you want the Source currently playing on the Main Path to be what gets Recorded, press Record, then press Copy (for "Copy Main -> Record").
> 
> This is how you do it manually, i.e., for each time you want to Record. If, instead, you know you ALWAYS want to Record only what's playing on the Main Path, you can set that up as the default at the bottom of the Setup > Source Setup menu (i.e., below all the individual Source lines). See Section 3.6 of the Manual.
> 
> See Section 3.9 of the Manual for setting the sample rate and bit size used when digitizing an AnalogDSP, Main Path input Source for output on the Digital Record output. Be sure to pick a sample rate and 16/24 bit size that your digital audio recorder can handle.
> 
> See Secton 4.2 of the Manual for how Record works as its own signal path, independent of Main, Zone 2, and Zone 3 selections.
> 
> See Section 4.3 of the Manual for more info on selecting to Record whatever is playing on the Main Path -- i.e., manually each time vs. automatic default.
> 
> Note that the Rec button on the remote only works when the remote is set to control the Main path (its normal state). The normal way to record would be -- with the remote in its default mode of controlling the Main path -- select the Source you want Main to play, then press Rec. If copying from Main to Record has not been set as the default by setting Always in Setup > Source Setup, then also press Copy now to do that for this one instance.
> 
> Note also that only the Main Path can digitize an Analog audio input Source -- done by specifying AnalogDSP in Setup > Source Setup. So if you want an Analog audio input to get recorded via the *DIGITAL* Record output, you have to select that Analog input as the Source (set to AnalogDSP) for the Main Path and then Record while also Copying Main -> Record. If you merely press Record and select that Analog input Source directly (independent of what's playing on the Main Path), the *DIGITAL* record output will remain silent. (The Record Path can not digitize Analog input -- it has to rely on the Main Path to do that for it.)
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> ETA: The settings described in Section 3.9 apply whenever Analog audio is Digitized on input in the Anthem. It may very well be that you need to lower that to 44.1KHz when using the Digital Record output as described above. I.e., so that the digital output stream is at a rate your digital recorder can handle.
> 
> Just remember to set that BACK to a higher value when listening to your AnalogDSP sources normally. That digitizes them at the better, higher rate, before feeding the resulting digital audio into, say, ARC for processing.
> --Bob


I set record to ALWAYS and now when I press record, the front panel displays
Main -> Record
Phono

Audacity is not picking up a signal with the line in set to the Peachtree via USB. Pressing record on Audacity yields no signal.

Phono is set to AnlgDSP and output as 16/44.1. Recording devices on my computer is set to the Peachtree.

I've tried both digital outputs on the anthem and all the USB ports on my computer with the same results.

Should the record light stay on if I'm doing it properly or does it always resort back to MAIN?

Thanks for your help!


----------



## rsinclair

thestewman said:


> How about a cable from the front D2 headphone connector to your headphone AUX input. A 1/4 in mic plug on one end and a 3.5 stereo connector on the other end. Should be able to listen to everything going to the D2 and controllable from the D2 headphone volume control.
> You will need to keep your USB cable plugged in to the xbox or use a wall wort supply


 @thestewman: That's my backup plan. I was hoping to figure out a solution that wouldn't require frequent plugging/unplugging of cables, but the advantage of using the Headphone jack on the d2v would allow me to control the volume. If I was able to use a Digital Out (or even HDMI Out 2) to drive the wireless headphones, I don't know if I'd be able to independently control the volume of the d2v outputting to both loudspeakers and headphones anyway, which would kind of defeat the purpose.

-R


----------



## tranle

rsinclair said:


> @thestewman : That's my backup plan. I was hoping to figure out a solution that wouldn't require frequent plugging/unplugging of cables, but the advantage of using the Headphone jack on the d2v would allow me to control the volume. If I was able to use a Digital Out (or even HDMI Out 2) to drive the wireless headphones, I don't know if I'd be able to independently control the volume of the d2v outputting to both loudspeakers and headphones anyway, which would kind of defeat the purpose.
> 
> -R


You can also use the 2 RCA record out on the back plug it into your headphone AUX input.
Then you have to select Record->Copy so that everything you hear on your main path is send your Record out.(manual 4.3 section)


----------



## thestewman

tranle said:


> You can also use the 2 RCA record out on the back plug it into your headphone AUX input.
> Then you have to select Record->Copy so that everything you hear on your main path is send your Record out.(manual 4.3 section)


Are the REC Outs a constant output ? There may not be enough to drive the headphones and there would be no volume control
except within the headphone mixer.


----------



## tranle

thestewman said:


> Are the REC Outs a constant output ? There may not be enough to drive the headphones and there would be no volume control
> except within the headphone mixer.


Yes the rec out are constant output and would not work if his wireless headphones does not come with an amp with volume control.


----------



## Kensmith48

I recently purchased a MS Surface Pro 3 w/ Windows 8. I tried to see if it would work with ARC for my D2v. I got it to work and the charts have a better look but the output was only 65hz. on average. The best I could get was 68hz. I set the test for 75hz using the LF speaker. I increased the test range to +3 to get the 68hz. output.
Does Anthem have any plans for a windows 8 upgrade in the works?
Ken


----------



## tspotorno

Just curious, anyone have an idea what a D2v3D box is worth now a days?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You mean used? You can check out what's being offered on Audiogon. As usual, allow for condition, completeness (has all parts, original box, etc.) and seller's psychology.
--Bob


----------



## tspotorno

I saw a unit up there a while back, looks like the thread is still pretty active! Hopefully, there's a market for a used one still.

Unfortunately, I've moved away from the Anthem product and hate to see the D2v collecting dust in the closet...


----------



## AVfile

Kensmith48 said:


> I recently purchased a MS Surface Pro 3 w/ Windows 8. I tried to see if it would work with ARC for my D2v. I got it to work and the charts have a better look but the output was only 65hz. on average. The best I could get was 68hz. I set the test for 75hz using the LF speaker. I increased the test range to +3 to get the 68hz. output.
> Does Anthem have any plans for a windows 8 upgrade in the works?
> Ken



You mean dB not hz. I don't use Windows 8, but others have assured us the actual results are correct. Just ignore the numbers on the graph. It wouldn't hurt to email screenshots to Anthem to "remind" them they need to work on this.


----------



## thestewman

tspotorno said:


> I saw a unit up there a while back, looks like the thread is still pretty active! Hopefully, there's a market for a used one still.
> 
> Unfortunately, I've moved away from the Anthem product and hate to see the D2v collecting dust in the closet...


Downsizing, gave up on video or found something better ?


----------



## tspotorno

Well, honestly, got tired of all the tweaking. I have a VW1100 and 2k doesnt pass thru, so I had to stop using all of the video functionality and switch to a Lumagen. Then regular HDMI audio issues with a variety of devices finally put the icing on the cake.

I tried to stay with Anthem, I've used a D2 device since 2007, I paid to swap out to a D2v3D not too long ago (2yrs maybe) but the same issues remained.

Went with MX151. Still do not use the video switching, as the Lumagen does a nice job, but ZERO audio issues syncing with devices, network support and control, and a very nice room correction system, boy is it nice to do a RC with an IPad vs PC and all the associated cables.

Overall could not be happier.


----------



## thestewman

tspotorno said:


> Well, honestly, got tired of all the tweaking. I have a VW1100 and 2k doesnt pass thru, so I had to stop using all of the video functionality and switch to a Lumagen. Then regular HDMI audio issues with a variety of devices finally put the icing on the cake.
> 
> I tried to stay with Anthem, I've used a D2 device since 2007, I paid to swap out to a D2v3D not too long ago (2yrs maybe) but the same issues remained.
> 
> Went with MX151. Still do not use the video switching, as the Lumagen does a nice job, but ZERO audio issues syncing with devices, network support and control, and a very nice room correction system, boy is it nice to do a RC with an IPad vs PC and all the associated cables.
> 
> Overall could not be happier.


Thanks for the information.
I agree though I am not sure the McIntosh is the complete answer. I personally do not experience any HDMI switching problems though occasionally the HDMI switching may be slow and I might get a short blue screen during the switching process.
Disappointing that the D2v 3D is lacking in so many areas and Anthem has not announced a
any plans to replace it with a new model or offer a real update. The 3D upgrade was a terrible investment.
Basically the D2v is an obsolete elephant. It is great for what it can do but has not kept pace with all the new features that are available.
Since you have a 4K Sony you know what is becoming necessary.
We need 4K and not just 4K pass through. It has become necessary to have HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2, and H265 decoding. And a USB interface.
Plus connection to a home network. Room correction that does speaker phasing, handles multiple sub woofers and uses a GUI via wireless not RS232 and a laptop.
And Anthem is missing the opportunity to build on the resurgence of vinyl being purchased and build in a phono amp to allow audiophiles to listen to vinyl.

You could almost do all of this with an OPPO BDP-103 or BDP-105 and eliminate the D2v

Sorry, Guess I could go on and on.


----------



## stanger89

thestewman said:


> We need 4K and not just 4K pass through. It has become necessary to have HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2, and H265 decoding.


I feel like I need to mention this again, but no display or video processor is ever likely to have/need H.265 decoding*, that's a requirement of a media player. HDMI transports uncompressed video, it's impossible to send content over HDMI that requires H.265 (or any other video codec), there's no such thing as "bitstreaming" for video. 

*The only reason you see H.265 listed on 4K TVs is because they're "smart" TVs with built in media players that have Netflix and the like without a separate player.


----------



## fmzip

Just picked up a D1 with ARC.

Here's my room and my results. Not much I can do with the room, the wife factor is present!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It helps if you also capture and post the Targets window when you post your ARC charts.

A few comments:

1) Check to make sure you have disabled the Crossover built into your Subwoofer. If you can't disable it entirely, crank it up to the highest possible frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. Right now it looks like you have an 80Hz Crossover filter, or even lower, enabled in your Sub, cutting off the high bass end of its output.

2) The significant loss of higher frequencies from the Surrounds is likely due to their placement. Treble is directional and your seating is way off the center axis for both Surrounds. If the Surrounds offer any pointing adjustability, try to point them more down and angled in towards the seating.

3) The additional drop around 10kHz in all the main speakers may be environmental -- measuring treble is tricky, and it can be affected by lots of things like room humidity. But make sure you are making your measurements with the ARC mic pointed straight up towards the ceiling at each mic location, and that the tip of the mic is set at seated ear height.

Your Fronts and Center are well positioned for good treble, so if there isn't a problem in how you are placing the mic, I would not worry much about that dip. You could try raising MAX EQ Frequency above the default 5kHz -- say to 10 or 12kHz -- which will allow ARC to apply correction further up. But ARC can only assume the Measured mic data is "real", so if the result leaves the impression of being brassy or brittle, drop that back down to 5kHz.

It's hard to be sure from your pictures, but the Left Front and Right Front speakers should only be toed in slightly from perpendicular to the screen wall. I.e., they should NOT be pointing at center seating. The Rule of Thumb is that you toe them in just 1/3 of the angle measured from perpendicular towards the line going directly to center seating.

If you change the Sub's Crossover or adjust any of the speaker pointing or need to correct how you positioned the mic, then you will need to re-Measure. To experiment with just changing MAX EQ Frequency, you can keep the current Measurement and just re-Calculate and re-Upload.
--Bob


----------



## fmzip

Thanks for the info Bob.

I am not sure if I follow along with everything but to answer a few questions....

The speakers are slightly toed in, not directly pointing at the center of the couch. The rears are not moveable

I positioned the mic on that boom tripod you posted years back and had the mic pointed up directly at ear height at each location. That was great suggestion as the tripod is only $25 with Amazon Prime 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000978D58/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The sub is a REL Strata III. It's been like 8 years or so since I set it up and never touched it again. This sub supposedly sets up differently from other subs from what I recall. 

http://www.sumikoaudio.net/ContentsFiles\ST-Series-Manual(1).pdf

Although the "Hi Level input" appears to be plugged in, it is not in use if that matters at all. It didn't seem to play nice with my Amp

Currently it's set at D, 2. Looking at these photos, can you tell me what I should set it again please? Should it be at D, 6? Do I then rerun ARC completely as I did the first time around? Before running ARC for the first time, I set all speaker to 75DB with a meter. Was that the correct thing to do? Does it matter what the crossover settings/seakers sizes are set to in the Anthem before running ARC?

Bob, Thanks for all the support on this forum!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

From the PDF file you linked, simply set the Mode to 2 (LFE - Phase 0), and the Crossover inside the Sub will be bypassed. This only applies to its Low level input -- which is the correct input to use when feeding it from the Subwoofer output of the D1.

(The Crossover is still in effect for its High level input, but you shouldn't be using that input now that you have the D1. That input is for connecting the output of a power amp to the Sub.)

You can check this by running Quick Measure from the ARC Tools menu and selecting the Subwoofer. This will display a test tone sweep chart for the Sub that updates in real time. Give it a couple cycles to settle down and then compare Mode settings 1 and 2 on the Sub -- waiting a few cycles after each change. You should see significantly more bass output in the higher bass frequencies when you select Mode 2. Check this with the ARC mic at Mic Position #1 (center seating).

You will need to re-Measure after confirming this, and with the Sub now set in Mode 2.

(In general, you always need to either re-Measure for a new ARC solution or re-Upload your current ARC solution every time after using Quick Measure, as Quick Measure resets the ARC configuration in the D1.)
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, I'm assuming your Sub is positioned in the front of the room, but I don't see it in the photos.

If the Sub is actually positioned in the rear of the room -- say, behind the sofa -- then Mode 4 (LFE -- phase 180) may be the right choice. Phase 0 and Phase 180 reverse the direction of cone travel in the Sub. The idea is to match that to what the main speakers are doing. If you think about it, when you turn the Sub around to face into the room while on the rear wall, you have just reversed the cone. Switching that Phase setting reverses it back again.

If phase is mismatched between the Sub and the main speakers you get cancellation of their combined bass output -- which sounds like anemic bass.

Since you only have one Subwoofer, you can experiment with phase adjustment without having to redo your ARC solution. Go ahead and build a new ARC solution with Mode 2 (LFE -- phase 0). Then play some STEREO content (e.g., a CD) with good bass. Play this with ARC enabled for that input Source. Play that using the Stereo audio surround mode of the D1 -- which means you will get sound from Left Front, Right Front, and, due to ARC, from the Subwoofer. Center and the Surrounds should be silent.

Now listen to that and compare how it sounds between Mode 2 and Mode 4. The correct choice will be the one that produces the most bass -- the least cancellation between the bass coming from the fronts and the bass steered from the fronts to the Sub via the ARC processing.

Note also that phase adjustments like this require correct speaker distance settings in the D1's Setup menu. So enter those first, if you've not already done so. Again, you can do that without having to redo your ARC solution.
--Bob


----------



## fmzip

Thanks Bob,

The sub is located in the far corner behind that sling chair










So do I open the file up, select tools, then quick measure? Does it ask what to remeasure? The only thing I see at the top menu right now without hooking up everything is "quick measure"

AS fas as measuring distances, should that be from position 1 or my favorite seat?


----------



## AVfile

fmzip said:


> Here's my room and my results. Not much I can do with the room, the wife factor is present!



Nice decorating job  
I bet it sounds good even in the kitchen. 
I have to ask though, what were you watching on the television?


----------



## thestewman

AVfile said:


> Nice decorating job
> I bet it sounds good even in the kitchen.
> I have to ask though, what were you watching on the television?


You so old you never watch that kind of tv programming ? Or maybe the wife does not allow it

Victoria's Secret Fashion Show


----------



## fmzip

AVfile said:


> Nice decorating job
> I bet it sounds good even in the kitchen.
> I have to ask though, what were you watching on the television?



Thanks,

It sounds good throughout the house.

I think that was E News Daily..... It wasn't last night's fashion show which I missed!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

fmzip,
With the Sub in that location, Mode 2 (LFE -- phase 0) is probably correct.

You can either open your ARC solution file or simply open the ARC app itself. Once in the chart view (which will be empty if you just opened the app directly), select Quick Measure from the Tools menu.

Quick Measure will then give you the choice of which speaker to use for the live chart sweeps.

Distances should be measured with a steel tape measure from the front center of the speaker grill to the head position at the seating location you care about most. Obviously only one position can get the "right" distances. Folks seated at other locations will hear sounds shifted towards the speakers they are closer to. I.e., if a sound is present in both Left Front and Right Front and is supposed to be dead center between them, only your primary seat will hear it like that. Folks seated to the right of that seat will hear the sound shifted more towards the Right Front speaker and vice versa.

If you have frequent guests, set up the distances for Center seating as that will work best for the range of seating locations.

ARC uses mic position #1 to set speaker levels. Generally it is best to set mic position #1 at center seating, even if your favorite seat is shifted either side of that.
--Bob


----------



## fmzip

Bob Pariseau said:


> fmzip,
> With the Sub in that location, Mode 2 (LFE -- phase 0) is probably correct.
> 
> You can either open your ARC solution file or simply open the ARC app itself. Once in the chart view (which will be empty if you just opened the app directly), select Quick Measure from the Tools menu.
> 
> Quick Measure will then give you the choice of which speaker to use for the live chart sweeps.
> 
> Distances should be measured with a steel tape measure from the front center of the speaker grill to the head position at the seating location you care about most. Obviously only one position can get the "right" distances. Folks seated at other locations will hear sounds shifted towards the speakers they are closer to. I.e., if a sound is present in both Left Front and Right Front and is supposed to be dead center between them, only your primary seat will hear it like that. Folks seated to the right of that seat will hear the sound shifted more towards the Right Front speaker and vice versa.
> 
> If you have frequent guests, set up the distances for Center seating as that will work best for the range of seating locations.
> 
> ARC uses mic position #1 to set speaker levels. Generally it is best to set mic position #1 at center seating, even if your favorite seat is shifted either side of that.
> --Bob


Thanks Again Bob!

So after I run the sweep, do I then click upload?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

fmzip said:


> Thanks Again Bob!
> 
> So after I run the sweep, do I then click upload?


If you want to reload your existing ARC solution, make sure that file is open in the ARC application (i.e., the charts are showing) and click Upload.

If you've made changes in the speakers (possibly due to what you saw via Quick Measure), then you should build a new ARC solution -- a Measurement pass, then Calculate, then Upload.
--Bob


----------



## Shrike645

Bob Pariseau said:


> If you want to reload your existing ARC solution, make sure that file is open in the ARC application (i.e., the charts are showing) and click Upload.
> 
> If you've made changes in the speakers (possibly due to what you saw via Quick Measure), then you should build a new ARC solution -- a Measurement pass, then Calculate, then Upload.
> --Bob


If you've used quick measure you need to upload either your saved or a new solution as quick measure removes any previous correction.


----------



## fmzip

I don't mind doing the whole thing over from scratch. Do I simply restart the program and let it run its course as I did the first time?

Are there any other screen captures I should post this time around?

Thanks again for all the help


----------



## Bob Pariseau

fmzip said:


> I don't mind doing the whole thing over from scratch. Do I simply restart the program and let it run its course as I did the first time?
> 
> Are there any other screen captures I should post this time around?
> 
> Thanks again for all the help


You should get used to using the manual setup -- which means you do it from the charts page.

There are buttons up top for Measure, Calculate, and Upload, so you can control exactly when each part is done. For example, this gives you the chance to change settings in the Targets page between Measurement and Calculation. Indeed, you can re-Calculate a single Measurement several times to find the Targets that produce the charts you like best. And only then do you do the Upload.
-Bob


----------



## fmzip

Bob Pariseau said:


> You should get used to using the manual setup -- which means you do it from the charts page.
> 
> There are buttons up top for Measure, Calculate, and Upload, so you can control exactly when each part is done. For example, this gives you the chance to change settings in the Targets page between Measurement and Calculation. Indeed, you can re-Calculate a single Measurement several times to find the Targets that produce the charts you like best. And only then do you do the Upload.
> -Bob


I guess the thing is I have no idea what chart looks the best. I have no idea what it means. As long as it sounds good, I am content. I thought the first run of ARC sounded good but agree that the mid bass was always lacking in my setup. Now I see why! 

So when I get home, I simply do quick measure on the sub then upload?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ No. Quick Measure is just so you can verify the settings change on the Sub is doing what we expect it to do.

Having made a change in the Sub setting like this, you need to do a new Measurement + Calculate + Upload pass. I.e., redo the ARC setup entirely, so ARC can hear and take advantage of the change you made in the Sub.

Post your new charts and Targets window afterwards and folks here can help you evaluate them.
--Bob


----------



## fmzip

Here are my latest results:


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Your Sub looks happier. This is really not a bad ARC solution given where you've had to mount your Surround speakers.

How does it sound?
--Bob


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## fmzip

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Your Sub looks happier. This is really not a bad ARC solution given where you've had to mount your Surround speakers.
> 
> How does it sound?
> --Bob


It sounds.................

AWESOME BOB!!!!

My new found bass has made everything sound soooooooooooooo great! That REL Strata is truly musical!

This was the best $650 purchase I EVER made in audio with the Anthem D1. I am so glad I stopped buying the latest and greatest audio gear! It's nice to get a piece like this at a fraction to what it once cost new. ARC is truly remarkable. I can't really imagine what "better" could sound like. DirecTV sounds fantastic, two channel FLAC files streaming through my Oppo BDP105 through balanced inputs is REMARKABLE!

I think I will enjoy this for many many years to come, My B&W 703's truly sing now! 

Thanks again Bob!

Couple of question, my Christmas tree is where the sling chair is now. Do you think I'd need to remeasure the sub once the tree is gone as it's directly in front of it?

Also my DS7's can be either Dipole or monopole, they are setup as dipole. Do you think there is anything to be gained by monopole


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The sound of the room will change somewhat with any redecorating. So yes I suggest you set aside time to re-Measure once things get back to normal. There's no rush though. It likely won't change THAT much. 
--Bob


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## AVfile

fmzip said:


> I simply do quick measure on the sub then upload?


Quick Measure allows you to run a continuous test tone while moving a speaker/sub around to find the sweet spot. You can move something and watch the chart refresh in almost real time. Dial in the best spot for one or more speakers then run the full ARC.


----------



## AVfile

fmzip said:


> I think I will enjoy this for many many years to come, My B&W 703's truly sing now!
> 
> Couple of question, my Christmas tree is where the sling chair is now. Do you think I'd need to remeasure the sub once the tree is gone as it's directly in front of it?
> 
> Also my DS7's can be either Dipole or monopole, they are setup as dipole. Do you think there is anything to be gained by monopole



Glad you like it and congrats on building a great, reasonably priced system! 

I would not have thought the Christmas tree would affect the lower frequencies much but I could be wrong. The thing is you have to re-measure all speakers, i.e. run the full ARC if you are going to upload a new solution. 

You can try QM while flipping the dipole/monopole switch on each DS7. I wonder if the monopole setting would give you a bit more of the top end that seems to be rolled-off in your charts. The switch probably just disables the small midrange "fill" drivers on the sides of the box.


----------



## Whitl

Looking for a little help, I have had to move from a house to a condo and my space has decreased significantly and with concrete floors speaker placement is much more difficult especially with respect to the subs. I have 2 MA FB212's and the only location i have is to put them side by side no other options due to power and concrete floors, when I run ARC do I treat them as 1 or do them separately when setting the prelim setting with the SPL meter before i run ARC, should the phasing be the same for both, trying to make the best of a bad situation. 

Thanks


----------



## tngiloy

Whitl said:


> Looking for a little help, I have had to move from a house to a condo and my space has decreased significantly and with concrete floors speaker placement is much more difficult especially with respect to the subs. I have 2 MA FB212's and the only location i have is to put them side by side no other options due to power and concrete floors, when I run ARC do I treat them as 1 or do them separately when setting the prelim setting with the SPL meter before i run ARC, should the phasing be the same for both, trying to make the best of a bad situation.
> Thanks


 
You have asked a number of questions here, so let me try to answer the best I can.
ARC treats multiple subs as one when it does its measurements and calculations, but when setting the spl level for the subs it is best to set them individually. Measuring from your primary listening position set each sub to @72dB by powering only one sub at a time. This should give you @ 75dB with both subs turned on.
This is done by going into the LEVEL CALIBRATION section of the Anthem setup menu and sending the test signal to the sub by choosing either movie or music sub. For this step you MUST use the volume control on the sub, NOT the adjustment in the setup menu. Be sure the sub is set to +0.0 in the Anthem setup. In fact set all the speaker levels to +0.0.
You should also take the time to adjust the TEST LEVEL to @75db in the LEVEL CALIBRATION section. This will set your LF speaker to @75db, and should make ARC's job a little easier in balancing out your speaker levels. Nick says this step isn't necessary, but its easy to do while your in the setup menu and have your handy spl meter out, and could save you some problems later.
So when you are done all the speaker levels in the setup menu will be +0.0 except for TEST LEVEL which you will have set to whatever to get it to read 75dB on the spl meter.


As far as phase goes, you will have to find out for yourself. The best way to do that is to open up ARC in the 'manual or open existing file' (not automatic) mode. At the top of the page choose 'tools' > 'quick measure' , the choose your subs. If the reading you are getting looks fairly good then back out of 'quick measure' and run ARC. If the reading looks not so good, then you may want to try moving the subs or adjusting the phase. This can be a tedious job, but well worth it in the end.


I have one more question, which can make this a lot easier. Do you really need two subs?? If the room is smaller than the previous one you had, you may be fine with just one. With just one sub you may have more flexibility with placement. You will still want to do 'quick measure' for the sub (or any other speaker that ARC finds hard to adjust for), but it will make set up a lot easier.


If you are determined to use two subs and ARC is having trouble with them, then I have one more suggestion. Get an SVS AS EQ-1 (only available used--if you're lucky enough to find one) or one of the sub leveling units from DSPeaker. I used an SVS in the past and the DSPeaker Anti-mode 2.0 now with my subs, and can highly recommend both.


Tom


----------



## WildZero

Hi,

I have a D2v and plan on setting up my system with ARC in a new room, haven't used ARC for a long time.
Currently I have a 5 speaker set up with no subwoofer (but at least large full range fronts).
Anything special I need to set in the D2v or ARC because of "no sub"?

Thank you!


----------



## p.las

When using the tonecontrol on the Remote . Is there a a/d converting in the chain then?
My unit is a avm50v


----------



## Nicoff

Bob Pariseau said:


> ---------------------------------------------------------
> So when playing an SACD in the OPPO, using a D2, your choices are as follows:
> 
> *1) HDMI LPCM from the OPPO to the D2. * The OPPO will convert the DSD from the SACD discs into multi-channel LPCM 2.0 or LPCM 5.1, at 88.2KHz 24-bit. The D2 can play that unprocessed or processed through ARC. Note that no re-digitization is needed prior to applying ARC because the audio has remained digital (from DSD off disc to LPCM over HDMI to the D2). No speaker configuration processing happens in the OPPO when using HDMI audio output. The D2 is responsible for all that.
> 
> *2) Multi-channel Analog from the OPPO to the D2 with SACD Output PCM set in the OPPO.* The OPPO will convert the DSD from the SACD discs into LPCM as above, process the LPCM according to your settings in the OPPO (e.g., Crossover or down-mix), and send the resulting LPCM to its DACs for conversion to Analog for output. The D2 can play that Analog input unprocessed, or it can re-digitize the Analog input and then do any processing you have specified -- such as ARC. Note that in this PROCESSED case you have a conversion to Analog in the OPPO, followed by a conversion back to Digital in the D2, followed by a conversion back to Analog for output from the D2. You also have the conversion of DSD to LPCM in the OPPO. You can bypass any additional processing in the OPPO (even when using LPCM to its DACs) if you prefer to let the D2 re-digitize and process the audio as through ARC.
> 
> *3) Multi-channel Analog from the OPPO to the D2 with SACD Output DSD set in the OPPO.* The OPPO will pass the DSD from the SACD discs *DIRECTLY* to its DACS for conversion to Analog for output. No processing (other than Volume control) is available in the OPPO when DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion is in effect. That means no down-mixing, no crossover processing, no speaker distance adjustments, no DTS Neo:6 Surround Sound -- nothing. The D2 can handle that incoming Analog audio just as in (2) above, either with or without ARC. To use ARC the D2 has to re-digitize the Analog audio input just as in (2) above.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> If you are going to use SACD Output PCM (OPPO converts DSD from SACD discs to LPCM), I recommend you use (1) above -- HDMI LPCM to the D2 -- instead of (2).
> 
> If you want to compare DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion, i.e., (3) above), I recommend you START by having the D2 re-digitize that Analog input so that you can apply ARC. Compare that against ARC processed LPCM input from the OPPO. My guess is you will find the LPCM sounds *IDENTICAL*. So you might as well stick with HDMI LPCM and keep things simple.
> 
> After doing THAT comparison, next switch to ANALOG-DIRECT in the D2 -- which disables ARC among other things. And compare DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion in the OPPO, with the D2 acting as an Analog pre-amp (i.e., NO PROCESSING AT ALL in the D2), against the HDMI LPCM case (1) above processed by ARC.
> 
> Keep in mind that since neither the OPPO nor the D2 is doing any audio processing, you will not have Crossover processing (bass directed from the main speakers to the Sub) or down-mix processing (if you have less than 5.1 speakers configured), or speaker distance adjustment (if your speakers are not all equidistant from your seating position).
> 
> My guess is you will discover that the advantages of ARC far outweigh any minor difference that exists from having the OPPO convert DSD directly to Analog instead of going the LPCM route. And again, if THAT'S the case then you should stick to HDMI LPCM from the OPPO as it avoids two steps of the audio path -- conversion to Analog in the OPPO and re-digitization back into Digital in the D2 prior to ARC.
> --Bob





thestewman said:


> It would be great if Nicoff returns to the forum after all his testing and gives us his opinion


I finally had a chance to run the tests suggested by Bob.

I set up the Oppo to output DSD audio on SACD sources. Then I listened to an SACD as follows: D2 fed via HDMI with ARC (anthem-music, this is Bob's choice #1 ); D2 fed via Analog with ARC (anthem-music, this is choice #3 in Bob's post and includes re-digitation); D2 fed analog-direct with no ARC (a 2 channel set up).

The best sound came from the Analog-Direct, 2-channel with no processing. The second best was the re-digitized analog set up (Bob's choice #3 ). Last came the mode using HDMI in which the music felt shallow compared to the deeper sound of the other two analog-fed modes.

So my conclusion is that it is best to listen to the DSD analog outputs of the Oppo when listening to SACDs even if I plan to use ARC (which requires re-digitizing).


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nicoff said:


> I finally had a chance to run the tests suggested by Bob.
> 
> I set up the Oppo to output DSD audio on SACD sources. Then I listened to an SACD as follows: D2 fed via HDMI with ARC (anthem-music, this is Bob's choice #1 ); D2 fed via Analog with ARC (anthem-music, this is choice #3 in Bob's post and includes re-digitation); D2 fed analog-direct with no ARC (a 2 channel set up).
> 
> The best sound came from the Analog-Direct, 2-channel with no processing. The second best was the re-digitized analog set up (Bob's choice #3 ). Last came the mode using HDMI in which the music felt shallow compared to the deeper sound of the other two analog-fed modes.
> 
> So my conclusion is that it is best to listen to the DSD analog outputs of the Oppo when listening to SACDs even if I plan to use ARC (which requires re-digitizing).


A suggestion: For the best comparison of the processed, Stereo Analog (and HDMI) choices here you should set the Audio Surround mode in the D2 to STEREO, not to Anthem Logic - Music. That will produce sound on the Left Front / Right Front and Subwoofer only. Press Mode and use the Arrow keys to cycle through the choices -- or set Stereo as the default choice for 2 channel input in Setup > Mode Presets for that Source line.

I.e., engage ARC processing but do NOT also engage Anthem Logic - Music surround sound processing (which converts Stereo input to more speakers output).

For the processed Analog case (Stereo Analog input re-digitized so as to allow ARC processing), also be sure to check your setting for how the D2 does that re-digitizing. See Section 3.9 of the Manual. By default, the D2 re-digitizes Stereo Analog input at 44.1KHz. Raise that to 96KHz. This is particularly important when the Source material is recorded at a higher sample rate to begin with -- as with SACD. (The Multi-channel Analog input already re-digitizes at 96KHz by default.)
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Nicoff said:


> I finally had a chance to run the tests suggested by Bob.
> 
> I set up the Oppo to output DSD audio on SACD sources. Then I listened to an SACD as follows: D2 fed via HDMI with ARC (anthem-music, this is Bob's choice #1 ); D2 fed via Analog with ARC (anthem-music, this is choice #3 in Bob's post and includes re-digitation); D2 fed analog-direct with no ARC (a 2 channel set up).
> 
> The best sound came from the Analog-Direct, 2-channel with no processing. The second best was the re-digitized analog set up (Bob's choice #3 ). Last came the mode using HDMI in which the music felt shallow compared to the deeper sound of the other two analog-fed modes.
> 
> So my conclusion is that it is best to listen to the DSD analog outputs of the Oppo when listening to SACDs even if I plan to use ARC (which requires re-digitizing).


Thank you for reporting your testing. I have been espousing this for a long time and now another forum member has confirmed what I hear. Though this does not hold true for videos played on a home theater.In that case HDMI to the Anthem with multichannel DTS HD Master or Dolby True HD lossless formats using ARC are the best formats.


----------



## Nicoff

Bob Pariseau said:


> A suggestion: For the best comparison of the processed, Stereo Analog (and HDMI) choices here you should set the Audio Surround mode in the D2 to STEREO, not to Anthem Logic - Music. That will produce sound on the Left Front / Right Front and Subwoofer only. Press Mode and use the Arrow keys to cycle through the choices -- or set Stereo as the default choice for 2 channel input in Setup > Mode Presets for that Source line.
> 
> I.e., engage ARC processing but do NOT also engage Anthem Logic - Music surround sound processing (which converts Stereo input to more speakers output).
> 
> For the processed Analog case (Stereo Analog input re-digitized so as to allow ARC processing), also be sure to check your setting for how the D2 does that re-digitizing. See Section 3.9 of the Manual. By default, the D2 re-digitizes Stereo Analog input at 44.1KHz. Raise that to 96KHz. This is particularly important when the Source material is recorded at a higher sample rate to begin with -- as with SACD. (The Multi-channel Analog input already re-digitizes at 96KHz by default.)
> --Bob


 Thanks Bob! Following up on your suggestions, I have confirmed that the D2 was already set to process all 2.0 signals at 96 kHz. 

I listened to an SACD (DSD) orchestral recording using the following four settings:

A) PCM Stereo (HDMI input, Stereo 2.1 channels output)

B) 2-channel Analog Direct (Analog-Direct input, Stereo 2.0 channels output, no ARC)

C) 2.1 channel from Analog source (AnlDSP input, Stereo 2.1 channels output, ARC Processing of analog 2-channel signal coming from Oppo 105D), and, just to relate to my previous listening test,

D) 4.1 channel derived from analog source (AnlDSP input, 4.1 channels output, AnthemLogic-Music mode, ARC Processing of analog 2-channel signal coming from Oppo 105D).

Here is how I ranked them:

1st. 2-Channel Analog Direct, no processing. The sound was much more engaging and musical than any of the other settings.

2nd 4.1 Channel Analog (AnthemLogic-Music, AnlDSP coming from Oppo 105D’s 2-channel analog). This setting was closer to the 2-channel set up than any of the others.

3rd 2.1 channel Analog (Stereo 2.1 channels, AnlDSP, coming from Oppo 105D’s 2-channel analog).

4th PCM Stereo (Stereo 2.1 channels, HDMI input). This setting lacked bass, not a deep or wide soundstage, in fact, the music was not very engaging.

My conclusions from this test are the following:
· The analog output from DSD sources provides better sound than digital PCM even though the analog DSD requires reconverting to digital (i.e., double processing).
· The quality of the DACs in the Oppo is superior to those in the D2. That should be expected though, because the DACs in the D2 are already aging technology, meanwhile, the Oppo uses some of the best DAC technology of today.
· ARC is doing its job, but it cannot make up for the aging DAC technology inside the D2. The 4.1 AnthemLogic-Music mode sounded better and fuller than the 2.1 Stereo when using the same analog source. With 2 extra speakers to work with, ARC is able to do a better job.

I love my D2, but it is obvious that it has not kept up with the times. The D2V is also an old by A/V processor by the standards of the times. I am still hoping that Anthem has a strong replacement of their flagship unit coming *VERY* soon (hint: a good showing at CES this January for example). Hope is the last thing that dies…


----------



## AVfile

I don't think the DACs are entirely to blame. The D2v and 50v have better digital input clocking circuits, and they sound quite a bit better. I believe final DAC stage is the same as their earlier versions (50v lacks up-sampling).

With your 2nd favourite choice, the DACs are in use but not the digital input.


----------



## dmusoke

Is there a pre-pro out there that would be an excellent or even superior alternative to the D2v in sound and video?


----------



## thestewman

dmusoke said:


> Is there a pre-pro out there that would be an excellent or even superior alternative to the D2v in sound and video?


Almost a dead area for manufacturers I believe.
The closet thing out there would be an OPPO 105D except it does not have multi port HDMI switching or 4K.
There are some really high end pre pros but they lack also 4k and 3D such as Datasat and McIntosh


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ "Two" is still, technically, "multi". 

The main disadvantage of the OPPO 105D as a pre-pro is that neither of those two HDMI inputs can accept 3D (or 4K), or Bitstreams for Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD MA, or DSD. Of course you can play shiny discs or play media files on an attached drive -- or over your house network. 

So you have to deprecate HDMI input as the fundamental -- must do "everything" -- input. 

Wait, maybe that's a GOOD THING!








--Bob


----------



## AVfile

dmusoke said:


> Is there a pre-pro out there that would be an excellent or even superior alternative to the D2v in sound and video?



http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/processors/processors-reviews/bryston-sp3-processor-review.html


----------



## p.las

*digital or analog tone control*



p.las said:


> When using the tonecontrol on the Remote . Is there a a/d converting in the chain then?
> My unit is a avm50v


anybody?

its the kontrol on the remote or/and the front panel digital or analog ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ All audio processing other than Volume is done in the digital domain. So yes, no Tone control if you are using Analog-Direct to avoid re-digitizing an Analog input.
--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

AVfile said:


> http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/processors/processors-reviews/bryston-sp3-processor-review.html


Truly excellent sound but no room EQ and the reasons used to justify its absence are really hokey. The truth is they do not know how to do it...


----------



## AVfile

dmusoke said:


> Truly excellent sound but no room EQ and the reasons used to justify its absence are really hokey. The truth is they do not know how to do it...



Right, I'm not about to jump ship, but it could be an option for some with well behaved rooms. As you can see from the review (Secrets Best of 2014) and reader comments there are different schools of thought on the merits of RC / room EQ.


----------



## dmusoke

Excellent Anthem D2v 3D review at secrets http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/proc...anthem-statement-d2v-3d-processor-review.html


It was bench tested like crazy and here is part of the technical summary...




1. Anthem Direct is the cleanest lowest possible distortion path, especially using XLR inputs and outputs with distortions much less than 0.001% .


2. HDMI inputs to XLR outputs had distortions of 0.002% or so regardless of sampling rate (44.1kHz to 192kHz)


3. The audio platform is 10 years old(same as Anthem D1 that came out in 2004) yet still kicking and producing excellent sound and technical specs.


4. Frequency response in Analog Direct is about 90kHz. With Analog-DSP, with ARC engaged, the frequency response is 48kHz and it crazy drops like a stone after that value.


5. Frequency response in HDMI (ARC or no ARC) was not measured, unfortunately.


Review summary... "*The sound is reference quality with excellent detail and a wonderfully silent noise floor*."






David.


----------



## HiFiGuy1

Any word on when Anthem will be able to address the desire for Atmos capability?


----------



## drhankz

HiFiGuy1 said:


> Any word on when Anthem will be able to address the desire for Atmos capability?


I am playing an Atoms Movie on my D2 - The Movie is 
*Expendables 3 *- my *Sony S790* is converting the Atoms 
to LPCM for my D2. 

It is the *BEST SOUND I HAVE EVER HEARD *for a Movie.


----------



## leeshanok

Nicoff said:


> Thanks Bob! Following up on your suggestions, I have confirmed that the D2 was already set to process all 2.0 signals at 96 kHz.
> 
> I listened to an SACD (DSD) orchestral recording using the following four settings:
> 
> A) PCM Stereo (HDMI input, Stereo 2.1 channels output)
> 
> B) 2-channel Analog Direct (Analog-Direct input, Stereo 2.0 channels output, no ARC)
> 
> C) 2.1 channel from Analog source (AnlDSP input, Stereo 2.1 channels output, ARC Processing of analog 2-channel signal coming from Oppo 105D), and, just to relate to my previous listening test,
> 
> D) 4.1 channel derived from analog source (AnlDSP input, 4.1 channels output, AnthemLogic-Music mode, ARC Processing of analog 2-channel signal coming from Oppo 105D).
> 
> Here is how I ranked them:
> 
> 1st. 2-Channel Analog Direct, no processing. The sound was much more engaging and musical than any of the other settings.
> 
> 2nd 4.1 Channel Analog (AnthemLogic-Music, AnlDSP coming from Oppo 105D’s 2-channel analog). This setting was closer to the 2-channel set up than any of the others.
> 
> 3rd 2.1 channel Analog (Stereo 2.1 channels, AnlDSP, coming from Oppo 105D’s 2-channel analog).
> 
> 4th PCM Stereo (Stereo 2.1 channels, HDMI input). This setting lacked bass, not a deep or wide soundstage, in fact, the music was not very engaging.
> 
> My conclusions from this test are the following:
> · The analog output from DSD sources provides better sound than digital PCM even though the analog DSD requires reconverting to digital (i.e., double processing).
> · The quality of the DACs in the Oppo is superior to those in the D2. That should be expected though, because the DACs in the D2 are already aging technology, meanwhile, the Oppo uses some of the best DAC technology of today.
> · ARC is doing its job, but it cannot make up for the aging DAC technology inside the D2. The 4.1 AnthemLogic-Music mode sounded better and fuller than the 2.1 Stereo when using the same analog source. With 2 extra speakers to work with, ARC is able to do a better job.
> 
> I love my D2, but it is obvious that it has not kept up with the times. The D2V is also an old by A/V processor by the standards of the times. I am still hoping that Anthem has a strong replacement of their flagship unit coming *VERY* soon (hint: a good showing at CES this January for example). Hope is the last thing that dies…


For many years with my D2, I used your #3 (2-ch analog with ARC) with paradigm Ref sub and my system sounded really good. In the past 8 months when I got my S8V3, I decided to compare #1 (analog direct, no sub, no ARC) with #3 , and never went back to #3 . My CD player is a Marantz SA11S2. Like you said, sound was much more musical and engaging. Now, I only use ARC for movies which seamlessly integrates my Ref sub to my speakers.


----------



## dmusoke

HiFiGuy1 said:


> Any word on when Anthem will be able to address the desire for Atmos capability?



You'll have to wait for a new processor...D3v and above.


----------



## WildZero

Hi,

I am setting up a 5 speaker system with no subwoofer. I'm not sure what is the best way to set
the response cutoff for the front speakers. Would this setting mean that every information below 60hz is lost?










Thank you!


----------



## thestewman

WildZero said:


> Hi,
> 
> I am setting up a 5 speaker system with no subwoofer. I'm not sure what is the best way to set
> the response cutoff for the front speakers. Would this setting mean that every information below 60hz is lost?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!


Are the Targets you displayed the actual ARC run or just the setup before ?
Cutoffs of 60hz might be appropriate for small bookshelf speakers 

Read carefully the explanation in the center of the Target window that starts
"Response cutoffs are not crossover frequencies ......."
No cutoff or crossover suddenly cuts off the audio sharply it is a declining slope across a frequency range

Run the entire ARC setup or if you have already finished an ARC run post your curves and the Target window so forum members can make recommendations

After an ARC run You can go into the Anthem Basic setup. Under the Speaker Configuration, Bass management Movie/Music screens and see the exact crossover points ARC has set for your speakers not the ARC cutoffs.


----------



## AVfile

WildZero said:


> Hi,
> 
> I am setting up a 5 speaker system with no subwoofer. I'm not sure what is the best way to set
> the response cutoff for the front speakers. Would this setting mean that every information below 60hz is lost?



No, the X-over is set to "full range" because you have no sub. So the speaker will do its best to reproduce everything it can below 60Hz. 

What the cutoff means is ARC should not perform any bass correction below this point.


----------



## thestewman

AVfile said:


> No, the X-over is set to "full range" because you have no sub. So the speaker will do its best to reproduce everything it can below 60Hz.
> 
> What the cutoff means is ARC should not perform any bass correction below this point.


^

You need to look at the crossovers set in Setup by ARC and post your charts to see exactly what ARC is doing.
As AVFILE stated " cutoff means is ARC should not perform any bass correction below this point " but that does not mean ARC has not set the crossovers or other equalization. They only display the "cutoffs" in the Target window and to give you an idea of where they stopping additional modification to prevent stress to your speakers.
You need to see the crossover settings in the bass manager to see exactly what ARC has done


----------



## Bob Pariseau

When you set the Subwoofer to OFF, ARC (and the Anthem hardware) forces Left Font and Right Front to Full Range. The numeric value is ignored. It is not grayed out because you can still put special choices in there such as F for Flat (a dangerous choice for most people) which will eliminate the safety roll off at the very lowest bass frequencies. 

Bass crossover processing still happens for the other speakers, with the steered bass going to LF/RF. 
--Bob


----------



## WildZero

Thank you for you help everybody! The new room is small and just terrible, but for now I'm stuck here 

So ARC will use full range for the fronts, but what does the response cutoff for the fronts influence?
Nothing (except for the flat setting) or the the range that ARC tries to correct?
If it is the range then wouldn't it be best to set a lower value of for example 30?

As suggested I checked in the D2v setup menu and crossover for the fronts was set to "off",
center to "60" and rears to "65".

Sorry for my English, I hope you understand what I am trying to ask 



Calculation 60


Calculation 30


Thanks again


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I don't know that those Calculated curves are "real" given that you've also got Full Range forced (due to no Sub), but beginning the roll off at 60Hz certainly makes sense. Your Fronts fall off a cliff below 30Hz. And since the roll off takes about an octave (factor of 2 in frequency) to fully engage, that means the roll off should start at twice 30 - 60Hz. 

When you changed it to 30, you can see that even with ARC applying boost your Fronts can't handle the octave below 30 (i.e., to 15Hz). 

It looks like ARC is applying the protective roll off starting at the higher frequency to protect your Fronts from bass (below 30 Hz) they simply can't handle. 
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

There also is a suck out at 150hz that ARC cannot fully correct in the left front speaker.
Maybe there is a doorway or wall offset or an object on the left side. You should try to eliminate the suckout. You can use Quick Measure to real time test each incremental change you make to eliminate it.
Also it may be dangerous for your speaker drivers to force them lower by changing the cutoff to 30. Look up your speaker manufacturers frequency response and then set it accordingly so you do not overdrive the low frequency drivers into breakup and distortion. The chart at 30 shows the driver breaking up at 50hz already

Your English is fine by the way


----------



## WildZero

Thanks Bob & thestewman

Speaker are listed as:
Low frequency point: (-6dB) 25Hz
Frequency response: (+/- 3dB) 30Hz - 40kHz on reference axis
But I do not trust those "under perfect conditions" specifications too much 

Maybe I will experiment with going down a bit more but it seems that 60 makes sense.

I also noted the nasty dip at 150, the speaker is located somewhat in a corner and a window is close by,
not possible to move it a lot but I will try by moving it around a little + Quick Measure

Thank you guys!


----------



## JDCaduceus

Hey all. Couple if issues. 

First, I am having trouble with my computer finding my ARC mic on the usb. It keeps saying it can't find it. Have no idea why. Any help is greatly appreciated. 

Second, I have two subs linked to processor via RCA cables and the subs are not playing any test noise when I do level calibration. I have the set up identified as one sub, not two. I also have the mode set to on and not auto. These are B&W subs.
The level calibration plays no test sounds at all in any of the subs. The subs low-frequency is set at 180 per instructions from paradigm. It looks like all RCA cables or link appropriately and the power to both subs is on. I have no idea why the subs are playing any calibration noise at all. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I would like to get my arc Mike connected to the computer so I can run the arc test appropriately. So any help with these two situations would be much appreciated. Thanks Conrad


----------



## tranle

JDCaduceus said:


> ..
> 
> First, I am having trouble with my computer finding my ARC mic on the usb. It keeps saying it can't find it. Have no idea why. Any help is greatly appreciated.
> ...
> . Thanks Conrad


I had some problem with my Lenovo notebook with the newer ARC mic, I had to switch the USB port in the bios to forced USB2.0.
Leaving the USB to either Auto or USB3.0 will make the mic not detectable by ARC.

This only happen with some of my notebook.


----------



## thestewman

JDCaduceus said:


> Hey all. Couple if issues.
> 
> First, I am having trouble with my computer finding my ARC mic on the usb. It keeps saying it can't find it. Have no idea why. Any help is greatly appreciated.
> 
> Second, I have two subs linked to processor via RCA cables and the subs are not playing any test noise when I do level calibration. I have the set up identified as one sub, not two. I also have the mode set to on and not auto. These are B&W subs.
> The level calibration plays no test sounds at all in any of the subs. The subs low-frequency is set at 180 per instructions from paradigm. It looks like all RCA cables or link appropriately and the power to both subs is on. I have no idea why the subs are playing any calibration noise at all. Does anyone have any suggestions?
> 
> I would like to get my arc Mike connected to the computer so I can run the arc test appropriately. So any help with these two situations would be much appreciated. Thanks Conrad


Anthem ARC finds the unit but not the Microphone ?
Possibly check the Anthem folder in Program File\Anthem\AnthemRoomCorrection and double check that the Mic serial number in .file and .cal matches the serial number on your MIC.

It IS CORRECT to have your 2 subs listed as 1 sub
Check target window in ARC and be sure you do not have Sub set as none


----------



## JDCaduceus

fixed the microphone issue - ran ARC without sub since I can not get the Subs to get a signal (even when entering listening calibration in the setup menu. I have the setup for 1 sub right now - though I have two subs (B&W) both should be getting signals from the processor via RCA on Sub 1 and Sub 2 Output. However, I get nothing. Don't know why. Will post a pic of the sub rear to see if you guys might know what is going on.

Any help is much appreciated.

thanks
Conrad


----------



## JDCaduceus

This is the rear of my sub. Any thoughts?

thanks
Conrad


----------



## thestewman

JDCaduceus said:


> fixed the microphone issue - ran ARC without sub since I can not get the Subs to get a signal (even when entering listening calibration in the setup menu. I have the setup for 1 sub right now - though I have two subs (B&W) both should be getting signals from the processor via RCA on Sub 1 and Sub 2 Output. However, I get nothing. Don't know why. Will post a pic of the sub rear to see if you guys might know what is going on.
> 
> Any help is much appreciated.
> 
> thanks
> Conrad


You should have the output of Anthem Sub1 to line in on the first sub and output of Anthem Sub 2 connected to line in of the second sub
Ensure you have your 12v triggers set up correctly. 
The B&W Sub should have a Green Led On if operating correctly.


----------



## JDCaduceus

thestewman that is correct. However, I do not have any 12v triggers in this setup. Never needed them before. Do I need 12v triggers to run my subs from the anthem d2v3d?


----------



## thestewman

JDCaduceus said:


> thestewman that is correct. However, I do not have any 12v triggers in this setup. Never needed them before. Do I need 12v triggers to run my subs from the anthem d2v3d?


Not entirely familiar with the B&W setup.
You do have to make some sort of decision how to turn it on.
Your options are ON, Auto, Standby
If you set it on it will remain on 24/7 until you turn it off
Auto means you need a 12v trigger from the Anthem
Standby it is not On only energized
If it is on you will get a Green Led


----------



## JDCaduceus

I left it at on and it has a green light so we should be good


----------



## JDCaduceus

But again. Even thought the sub is on (green light) and connections are correct. What am I doing wrong? Is there something I need to do in the setup menu that I am not doing correctly? I currently have the setup for 1 sub in my speaker config. Should I have two subs now that I ran ARC and my speakers are calibrated? Thanks again Conrad.


----------



## thestewman

JDCaduceus said:


> But again. Even thought the sub is on (green light) and connections are correct. What am I doing wrong? Is there something I need to do in the setup menu that I am not doing correctly? I currently have the setup for 1 sub in my speaker config. Should I have two subs now that I ran ARC and my speakers are calibrated? Thanks again Conrad.


One sub is the correct setting.

First I would take the line going to Sub 1 and plug it into the Anthem output for one of your front speakers then test to ensure the sub is working.
And then the opposite to ensure sound is going to the sub

Open ARC and check the target and make sure you do not have none selected for the sub in the target window

Open Speaker configuration and check your speaker config for Bass Management Music and Movie
to ensure you have 1 sub selected


----------



## tngiloy

JDCaduceus said:


> But again. Even thought the sub is on (green light) and connections are correct. What am I doing wrong? Is there something I need to do in the setup menu that I am not doing correctly? I currently have the setup for 1 sub in my speaker config. Should I have two subs now that I ran ARC and my speakers are calibrated? Thanks again Conrad.


 
So just to be clear--- are you not getting sound to your subs when you choose 'sub' in the 'level calibration' section of the setup, or during the sub sweeps during the ARC run?


When you run ARC you need to choose your speaker configuration _*in ARC*_. As you open ARC in either the 'manual' or 'automatic' choice the first page that will appear (after it recognizes your processor and you choose your mic) will be a speaker setup page for movie and music. You should choose your speaker setup there. Be sure that you have checked 'subwoofer' in ARC. Once ARC is run it will override anything you have setup previously in the 'speaker configuration' area of the setup menu and will set subs to 1 sub even if you had previously chosen 2 subs in the 'speaker configuration' of setup.


If you post your ARC graphs and targets we may be able to help you more.


Looking at the picture of the back of your sub it appears to be turned on and connected correctly. You do not need to worry about the 12v triggers even if your sub is set to 'auto'. In the 'auto' mode your sub remains in standby until it senses a signal, then will turn on. But since you have yours 'on' , they will be on all the time.


----------



## JDCaduceus

That is correct during the level calibration I'm getting no sound to my sub. Even when it's selected. In addition, doing the ARC set up I originally had the sub selected however when the test began and it got to the part where it was measuring the sub woofer it gave me an error code advising me that it was unable to proceed. So you are correct I'm not getting sound either on level calibration for arc when I have probably selected the sub.

At this point, I really believe that I might have a bad processor. I have only had my processor for approximately five months. 

To make matters worse, I check my processor tonight and now I'm having a handshake issue with my HDMI out.
It seems now my HDMI out of the processor will not project any kind of picture or sound at all. Even when I switch The source to resolve any kind of handshake issues, which normally correction itself by showing a picture, this time my screen simply flickers telling me I have an HDMI out issue

So I am really at a loss. It looks like it's a bad processor but I can't be sure I think I'm pretty competent but I learn something new every day. I really don't know what's going on in my situation either with the sub or now my picture.

Do you guys have any advice on where I should take this? Or any advice on how to fix these issues?


----------



## thestewman

JDCaduceus said:


> That is correct during the level calibration I'm getting no sound to my sub. Even when it's selected. In addition, doing the ARC set up I originally had the sub selected however when the test began and it got to the part where it was measuring the sub woofer it gave me an error code advising me that it was unable to proceed. So you are correct I'm not getting sound either on level calibration for arc when I have probably selected the sub.
> 
> At this point, I really believe that I might have a bad processor. I have only had my processor for approximately five months.
> 
> To make matters worse, I check my processor tonight and now I'm having a handshake issue with my HDMI out.
> It seems now my HDMI out of the processor will not project any kind of picture or sound at all. Even when I switch The source to resolve any kind of handshake issues, which normally correction itself by showing a picture, this time my screen simply flickers telling me I have an HDMI out issue
> 
> So I am really at a loss. It looks like it's a bad processor but I can't be sure I think I'm pretty competent but I learn something new every day. I really don't know what's going on in my situation either with the sub or now my picture.
> 
> Do you guys have any advice on where I should take this? Or any advice on how to fix these issues?


Hard to believe after 5 months it is going bad they are very reliable.
Usually it is something that the user forgot, a connection problem or a temporary firmware glitch. Hopefully we can correct it.
It is a good policy to start from the basics and check each item, not skipping any steps.
If you still have the HDMI problem.
Do a hard reset of the Anthem and your display disconnecting power from each for 2 or 3 minutes.
Restart both. Still no picture or sound ?
Check you have a HDMI source selected in the Anthem and the correct input source selected in your display.
Unplug the output HDMI cable at both ends and reinsert making sure it goes straight into the socket

Still no picture or sound ?
Attempt to bring up the setup menu on your display using the remote control 
Nothing ?
With the HDMI source you want selected scroll through the front Led displays using the status button and write each down and let us know what each says


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Odds are you have a cabling problem. 

Check that you are REALLY connected to the Sub output of the Anthem and that you are connected to Line Level input at the Sub. Your Sub may have high level input and line level output jacks, neither of which will work. 

If no easy answer there, temporarily change LF/RF to Full Range in the Anthem, then move the plug from the Sub output to the LF output and unplug the RF output. Play a CD with good bass and confirm you are getting sound from the Sub. If not there is a problem in the cable or the Sub. 

It wouldn't surprise me if your HDMI problem is just that you jiggled an HDMI plug while futzing with the Sub or the RS-232 serial connection. Reseat your HDMI plugs. 
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

JDCaduceus said:


> This is the rear of my sub. Any thoughts?
> 
> thanks
> Conrad




Conrad
Unless my eyesight is going bad it looks like your input cable is severely frayed
And you still have the lowpass crosover for the sub engaged which it should not be for ARC


----------



## tngiloy

thestewman said:


> Conrad
> Unless my eyesight is going bad it looks like your input cable is severely frayed
> And you still have the lowpass crosover for the sub engaged which it should not be for ARC


 
Good eye Stew. 
Also please check your connections in the back of the D2v. *Make sure the cables are plugged all the way in.* Some cables have tighter connections and you may think you are all the way in when you are not.
From what you posted it sounds like you are using the correct connections, but please refer to the attachment to make sure you are using the correct outputs. You should be using the 'main audio out' rca analog sub1 and sub2 outs.
It is usually something simple. But the hard reset (unplugging your d2v for a few minutes) may help. If all else fails you may want to re-upload your firmware.
BTW what firmware are you running?? Is your D2v a 3d model ??


We want to get you up and running ASAP. There may still be time to watch Polar Express with your family.


Tom


----------



## JDCaduceus

Thanks Bob - everything seems to be ok now with HDMI - don't know what happened but on power up of Processor - getting picture from my two sources (HTPC and TV). However, my sub will sill not produce any sound. One issue i thought could be the problem: all my of speakers are using XLR cables from the processor to the AMP, except the subs. I was using RCA from processor to Sub line in. Could it be that using XLR's to speakers shuts down RCA Main outs for the processor? Just a thought.

Thanks Tom, and Stew - 

Stew I disabled the lowpass Xover on the sub (turned it to "out") and still no sound. I appreciate all the help. I am going to try Bob's suggestion on the full range next. I also have the frequency on the sub turned to the max and the volume midrange. My thought was the processor (D2v3d) should be handling the xover for the sub.

Update: FYI Bob I flashed the Processor with the latest firmware for D2v3D - 3.10 - still no sound from sub. I tried two different RCA cables. My only conclusion is that since I am using XLR cables for my 5 channel system that the sub must also be on a XLR cable. I never heard of that but that is the only thing I can think of. Problem is I would need to get a XLR (female) to RCA for the sub to try it out. Thoughts?

Isn't this right setup?


----------



## thestewman

Conrad

Save yourself a lot of trouble and time and do these easy tests

The RCA and XLR outputs are all turned on and can be intermixed.

Open Speaker configuration in the Setup menu for Bass Management Music and Movie.
Check your speaker config you have 1 sub selected

Open ARC and check the target window and make sure you do not have none selected for the sub in the target window

Now, take the cable going to Sub 1 and plug it into the Anthem RCA output for the Right Front speaker. The sub has a built in amp so you do not need the speaker amp
Play anything even the test tones to test sound is going to the sub on that cable

Now we can test the sub output is working.
We will do the opposite to ensure sound is going to the sub. 

Take the XLR cable going to the Right Front speaker and plug it into the Sub 1 Output XLR 
connector on the D2v.
Use the test tones and see if you get sound to the right front speaker.


----------



## AVfile

JDCaduceus said:


> XLR cables for my 5 channel system that the sub must also be on a XLR cable. I never heard of that but that is the only thing I can think of. Problem is I would need to get a XLR (female) to RCA for the sub to try it out. Thoughts?



No problem using both XLR and RCA outputs, many people do that. 

Have you tested these subs with another preamp or source device? (Caution if you connect a CD player turn the volume down on the subs first! Setting 1/4 or less should produce plenty of sound.)


----------



## JDCaduceus

Thanks stew - that sounds like a good test. Will give it a try today and report back the results.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

*Audio Problem*

Folks,

I have had a several month long audio output problem that
I'm finally taking the time to try and isolate and troubleshoot, after
years of having no problems with my D2V-3D. It goes like this - anytime
I input Dolby Digital bitstream to the D2V, no matter which source it
is from (Satellite, Oppo, AppleTV3, etc.), the audio output is severely
lacking, ie, almost silent...if I really crank the volume, I can hear
the soundtrack and dialogue, but I mean it has to be at -20 or -15 or so to do
so. If I switch the source to outputing something else, like straight
PCM, then there is no problem at all, the audio is at the normal proper
level, and I can hear the movie perfectly. This is after years of
perfect performance, and no changes have been made to my setup, nor do I
typically change Mode Presets for the individual sources at all...in
fact, for Dolby Digital 5, I have 'None' selected as the audio
processing for all input sources. But just for fun, to try and isolate the problem, I tried
moving the Mode Preset to other things, like THX Cinema, or ProLogic II
and I still have the problem. It is unusable in this state, can't hear
anything properly, so I end up going into things like the AppleTV3 and
changing to PCM output instead of Dolby Digital, and then all is well
immediately.

The problem sometimes goes away, this is the
weirdest part. I can't tell when it's going to recur or not. Do I have
possibly a failed Dolby decoding chip or something in my D2V? Thoughts
are welcome, as I am really tired of this issue, as you can imagine.

Thanks for your thoughts.
-Brian


----------



## JDCaduceus

stew - Results are in

RCA test from Line in (Sub) to RCA LFront on Processor = no sound

XLR test - Moved XLR from Left Front to Sub 1 on Processor = sound

Looks like bad RCA cables or something wrong with sub - will replace RCA cables and see what happens there.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It may be as simple as a switch setting on the Sub for whether the XLR or RCA jacks are active for input.
--Bob


----------



## JDCaduceus

Thanks Bob - but the B&W subs have no XLR input - only RCA. See attached pic of rear of my subs (both subs are the same model) - thoughts?

fyi the low pass filter is set to out now and the low pass freq is set to max - despite pic


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ManWithAPlan said:


> Folks,
> 
> I have had a several month long audio output problem that
> I'm finally taking the time to try and isolate and troubleshoot, after
> years of having no problems with my D2V-3D. It goes like this - anytime
> I input Dolby Digital bitstream to the D2V, no matter which source it
> is from (Satellite, Oppo, AppleTV3, etc.), the audio output is severely
> lacking, ie, almost silent...if I really crank the volume, I can hear
> the soundtrack and dialogue, but I mean it has to be at -20 or -15 or so to do
> so. If I switch the source to outputing something else, like straight
> PCM, then there is no problem at all, the audio is at the normal proper
> level, and I can hear the movie perfectly. This is after years of
> perfect performance, and no changes have been made to my setup, nor do I
> typically change Mode Presets for the individual sources at all...in
> fact, for Dolby Digital 5, I have 'None' selected as the audio
> processing for all input sources. But just for fun, to try and isolate the problem, I tried
> moving the Mode Preset to other things, like THX Cinema, or ProLogic II
> and I still have the problem. It is unusable in this state, can't hear
> anything properly, so I end up going into things like the AppleTV3 and
> changing to PCM output instead of Dolby Digital, and then all is well
> immediately.
> 
> The problem sometimes goes away, this is the
> weirdest part. I can't tell when it's going to recur or not. Do I have
> possibly a failed Dolby decoding chip or something in my D2V? Thoughts
> are welcome, as I am really tired of this issue, as you can imagine.
> 
> Thanks for your thoughts.
> -Brian


Try this:

In Setup: Save User Settings, Load Factory Defaults, Load Saved User Settings.

This resets all of the "temporary" trim settings -- which are remembered per type of audio input format but aren't included when you Save settings.

If that doesn't do it, and with your settings still Saved in the User memory, Reload Factory Defaults again. Now manually make the minimum number of Settings changes necessary to to Source Setup and Speakers to test whether this problem still exists. If it goes away with defaults, you may need to re-enter the rest of your settings manually, as your saved settings may have been corrupted.

If the problem still exists with the factory defaults, then Reload Factory Defaults again and re-install the v3.10 firmware. Test again (minimum manual changes). If even that doesn't fix it, then your Anthem may need service.
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman 
Conrad
Unless my eyesight is going bad it looks like your input cable is severely frayed
And you still have the lowpass crosover for the sub engaged which it should not be for ARC
Conrad

You never commented on this 

Stew


----------



## Nicoff

Just had a puzzling experience with my D2. After moving my speakers around I did a quick measure check to find location. I did not run ARC afterwards (as recommended). Instead I went on to try and listen in two channel only to find that the left speaker volume as much lower than the right speaker. I was afraid of a problem with the amp and changed cables etc. nothing worked. Then decided to check the speaker volume in the Anthem set up and voila! The right speaker was higher by about 7 DB. I know that I did not make that change, so somehow the higher setting got there. Problem fixed now, but even with the 2-ch input with no ARC, volume setting has an effect.


----------



## JDCaduceus

I am sorry I thought I did - I switched the low pass filter to "out" and adjusted the low pass frequency to the max setting- so technically the Processor should process all frequencies to the sub for the Xover (It is set at 80) but still no sound - Did your test and No sound from RCA to Front L RCA input - However I did get sound in my front left speaker when I switched my XLR Front L to the XLR sub 1 - so I figure it is a bad RCA, or something with my sub (a switch or something) I don't know. Still don't know why this is difficult. It should not be 





thestewman said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by thestewman
> Conrad
> Unless my eyesight is going bad it looks like your input cable is severely frayed
> And you still have the lowpass crosover for the sub engaged which it should not be for ARC
> Conrad
> 
> You never commented on this
> 
> Stew


----------



## thestewman

JDCaduceus said:


> I am sorry I thought I did - I switched the low pass filter to "out" and adjusted the low pass frequency to the max setting- so technically the Processor should process all frequencies to the sub for the Xover (It is set at 80) but still no sound - Did your test and No sound from RCA to Front L RCA input - However I did get sound in my front left speaker when I switched my XLR Front L to the XLR sub 1 - so I figure it is a bad RCA, or something with my sub (a switch or something) I don't know. Still don't know why this is difficult. It should not be


After switching cables it sounds like the sub is bad
since you get sound when connecting the Anthem sub out to your left front speaker and no sound from the sub when connecting the Left front out to the sub

What model B&W sub is it ?


----------



## RobDec

Hi
I have encountered 2 problems on my AVM50v 3d:

1) I made the mistake of turning on and off my AVM50v 4 times in a ten minute period. What happened was the resolution on the front panel changed from 720p to 720i. This struck me odd because there is no 720i. I exited that input and went back and it went back to 720p.

2) I was watching a Bluray dolbyHD 7.1. I paused and rewound when I hit play the front panel changed from Dolby HD 7.1 to Dolby HD 2.0. I exited Bluray and went back and it returned to 7.1.

Can someone pleases help. Thank you

Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Hi
> I have encountered 2 problems on my AVM50v 3d:
> 
> 1) I made the mistake of turning on and off my AVM50v 4 times in a ten minute period. What happened was the resolution on the front panel changed from 720p to 720i. This struck me odd because there is no 720i. I exited that input and went back and it went back to 720p.
> 
> 2) I was watching a Bluray dolbyHD 7.1. I paused and rewound when I hit play the front panel changed from Dolby HD 7.1 to Dolby HD 2.0. I exited Bluray and went back and it returned to 7.1.
> 
> Can someone pleases help. Thank you
> 
> Rob


^
Sounds more like a glitch with the BluRay player and the disk than the Anthem
The Anthem front panel display was indicating what the Blu Ray player was sending it
Either restart the disk and player or try the players menu to change the resolution and audio stream.
It is hard on electronics to subject them to possible voltage surges with multiple restarts by powering turning off and on multiple times. Though I believe the Anthem is protected two ways. It has voltage limiting on startup and it is really never really powered off unless you turn the rear master switch off


----------



## RobDec

Thanks Stew
When the resolution changed to 720i I was using CD and watching Directv. I apologise for not mentioning that. But there is no such thing as 720i.
My bluray player is an Oppo 103d and I believe it does not have Dolby HD2.0. So how could it be sending Dolby HD 2.0 when there is no such thing? 
I really do appreciate your input and thanks again!
Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I suspect you just got a partial update on the front panel display - i.e., it was trying to display 1080i and put up the wrong thing. Confusing, but harmless if you actually got audio and video. If you did NOT get audio and video, then you had an instance of HDMI handshake failure. The first thing to check in such cases is the HDMI cabling.

Dolby TrueHD Bitstreams do come in 2.0 (i.e., Stereo: Left Front / Right Front and no LFE content). So a report of Dolby HD 2.0 could be real.
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Bob Pariseau said:


> I suspect you just got a partial update on the front panel display - i.e., it was trying to display 1080i and put up the wrong thing. Confusing, but harmless if you actually got audio and video. If you did NOT get audio and video, then you had an instance of HDMI handshake failure. The first thing to check in such cases is the HDMI cabling.
> 
> Dolby TrueHD Bitstreams do come in 2.0 (i.e., Stereo: Left Front / Right Front and no LFE content). So a report of Dolby HD 2.0 could be real.
> --Bob


 Thanks again Bob
From what I understand is the Oppo103d and AVM50v both support Dolby hd 2.0. or the AVM50v doesn't support Dolby HD 2.0 but as a result of the partial update it just displays it on the front panel.

Can anyone verify another problem? I have noticed especially with pro football that my sound format will change to DPLIIx when it should be 5.1 I was told that it is a handshake issue. And a gentleman by Glenn gave me a quick fix, which was to go into a different input then reenter directv. That does solve it. Or I learned to go into menu on directv and reenter Dolby digital under audio. but my question is "Is this a handshake issue?"

it seems when I enter things multiple times I run into problems. i.e. Anthem O.S.D, guide on directv, on and off. It seems that way and I hope it isn't a defective unit.

Have a Happy New Years

Rob

Thanks again Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Thanks Stew
> When the resolution changed to 720i I was using CD and watching Directv. I apologise for not mentioning that. But there is no such thing as 720i.
> My bluray player is an Oppo 103d and I believe it does not have Dolby HD2.0. So how could it be sending Dolby HD 2.0 when there is no such thing?
> I really do appreciate your input and thanks again!
> Rob


Do I interpret you saying "using CD and watching Direct TV "as you have Direct TV on a CD input source ?

There is a reason for the 720i video and DD 2.0 audio and it is problematic with RF transmission both on the broadcasters end and in your case with Direct TV your receiving end.

Sporting events are notorious for switching from stereo to 2.0 channel especially NFL and MLB.
So, I use PL II. It derives/synthesizes the two channel source into 5.1 or in my case 7.1.
You will never notice when the signal goes back and forth between 2.0 and 5.

.
The 720i was probably RF interference somewhere in the transmission of the video signal and your Anthem was displaying what it had measured and received even if it was momentary and incorrect


----------



## RobDec

thestewman said:


> Do I interpret you saying "using CD and watching Direct TV "as you have Direct TV on a CD input source ?
> 
> There is a reason for the 720i video and DD 2.0 audio and it is problematic with RF transmission both on the broadcasters end and your receiving end.
> 
> Sporting events are notorious for switching from stereo to 2.o channel especially NFL and MLB..
> The 720i was probably RF interference somewhere in the transmission of the video signal and your Anthem was displaying what it had measured and received even if it was momentary and incorrect


 Yes 
I watch Directv through the CD input. Thank you for explaining the 720i and Dolby hd2.0 issues. 
And thanks for the NFL and MLb explanation. The interesting thing is I use the quick fixes that I mentioned above (Switching inputs on the Anthem or changing Dolby digital from off to on again in the Directv menu and it returned to 5.1. Which is why im concerned if its a handshake issue. also I noticed it does this on regular programs like "Two anda Half men"

Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Yes
> I watch Directv through the CD input. Thank you for explaining the 720i and Dolby hd2.0 issues.
> And thanks for the NFL and MLb explanation. The interesting thing is I use the quick fixes that I mentioned above (Switching inputs on the Anthem or changing Dolby digital from off to on again in the Directv menu and it returned to 5.1. Which is why im concerned if its a handshake issue. also I noticed it does this on regular programs like "Two anda Half men"
> 
> Rob


As Bob explained if it were a handshake problem you would not be getting an acceptable video signal nor a clear audio signal.
Your quick fixes are just covering over the fact that the problem you are or were experiencing is short in nature and would have cleared shortly by itself.
Switching back and forth between sources does solve some handshake problems by the way
just not in your case


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Yes
> I watch Directv through the CD input. Thank you for explaining the 720i and Dolby hd2.0 issues.
> And thanks for the NFL and MLb explanation. The interesting thing is I use the quick fixes that I mentioned above (Switching inputs on the Anthem or changing Dolby digital from off to on again in the Directv menu and it returned to 5.1. Which is why im concerned if its a handshake issue. also I noticed it does this on regular programs like "Two anda Half men"
> 
> Rob


Same broadcaster problem not your Anthem
Use PLII or PLIIx. 
You will never notice when the broadcaster changes the signal between 2.0 and 5.1.


----------



## RobDec

thestewman said:


> Same broadcaster problem not your Anthem
> Use PLII or PLIIx.
> You will never notice when the broadcaster changes the signal between 2.0 and 5.1.


 Yes
I do use 2.0 + PLIIx and 5.1+ PLIIX and it switches between the two, but I am guessing its a broadcasting problem.
Thanks Rob


----------



## dreamhomecinema

any news for anthem updation there D2v3 units to dolby atmos


----------



## stanger89

Nick said there's nothing coming a few posts/pages back.

Given that the D2V/50V are premium products unlike the the current Atmos boxes which only do at most 7.1.4, I fully expect anything Anthem does for Atmos will be far more robust than trying to cram a 5.1.2 solution into D2V/50V's 7 output channels.

In other words, I fully expect any Atmos solution from Anthem will involve an entirely new platform. I don't know how many channels it would have but I would expect at least 11 speaker channels (7.1.4) if not more. Probably wont' be like a Trinnov or Datasat though.


----------



## SimonNo10

Just thought I would say a big thank you to everyone here for all the assist over the last year or two with my issues and calibration questions for my D2v. I went through a stage of constant graph posting etc and the level of knowledge here has been amazing.

I haven't posted in this thread for sometime as my unit has performed flawlessly since it was upgraded with the 3D board and sounds incredible. Happy New guys (From Australia) and thanks for being there .


----------



## gerard1meehan

Happy New year to all of the posters here, and thank you for your help over the year!

So I have one that might have been touched upon a while back. In my theater I utilize HDMI 1 for my main display. During the install process I also ran three additional HDMI runs to a flat panel in my bar area, one in my Kitchen, and another to a AV-receiver in my living room.

So here is the tick. When I change sources (regardless of source) either via my Crestron, remote or front of unit I get an audio drop out. Video is fine, and when I power cycle the unit I get sound back. I have utilized several different brands of splitters, and am now utilizing a Gefen (EDIC and HDCP compliant). What is also odd is what happens when I re-access the same source. Lets say I am watching Sat 1 on one of the displays on HDMI out 2, sound is working fine, and then I press that source button on my tablet again (Crestron) the sound kicks off.

This happens on my oppo, Direct TV, Chrome Cast, and Fire stick, so not a source issue (in my mind that is).

Is this an HDCP issue? 

I have ordered a HDMI audio Embedder to try and get around this but I am really curious


----------



## drhankz

gerard1meehan said:


> Is this an HDCP issue?


You are trying to make it Operate in a way it is *NOT* intended to operate 

*ANSWER - YES*


----------



## gerard1meehan

drhankz said:


> You are trying to make it Operate in a way it is *NOT* intended to operate
> 
> *ANSWER - YES*


How would you approach this? My intent was to have other sets married to the theater.


----------



## thestewman

gerard1meehan said:


> Happy New year to all of the posters here, and thank you for your help over the year!
> 
> So I have one that might have been touched upon a while back. In my theater I utilize HDMI 1 for my main display. During the install process I also ran three additional HDMI runs to a flat panel in my bar area, one in my Kitchen, and another to a AV-receiver in my living room.
> 
> So here is the tick. When I change sources (regardless of source) either via my Crestron, remote or front of unit I get an audio drop out. Video is fine, and when I power cycle the unit I get sound back. I have utilized several different brands of splitters, and am now utilizing a Gefen (EDIC and HDCP compliant). What is also odd is what happens when I re-access the same source. Lets say I am watching Sat 1 on one of the displays on HDMI out 2, sound is working fine, and then I press that source button on my tablet again (Crestron) the sound kicks off.
> 
> This happens on my oppo, Direct TV, Chrome Cast, and Fire stick, so not a source issue (in my mind that is).
> 
> Is this an HDCP issue?
> 
> I have ordered a HDMI audio Embedder to try and get around this but I am really curious


I think you meant HDMI audio De-Embedder to remove the analog audio signal from the HDMI stream 

Maybe this is the cause ? Easily remedied.

On page 17 of the User manual is a highlighted note pertaining to use of HDMI 2 and multiple displays. It basically says that if you do not turn off the displays auto selection of HDMI input signals you will have dropouts as the display senses to see what HDMI input has a signal. It also suggests that when using HDMI1 and HDM2 the handshake will be the EDID of the display connected to HDMI 1 even if the display on HDMI2 has different requirements.

HAPPY NEW YEAR !
May 2015 bring us new Anthem toys to work with that have 11 channel audio, 4K, HDMI 2.2, HDCP 2.2, USB and ethernet


----------



## gerard1meehan

thestewman said:


> I think you meant HDMI audio De-Embedder to remove the analog audio signal from the HDMI stream
> 
> Maybe this is the cause ? Easily remedied.
> 
> On page 17 of the User manual is a highlighted note pertaining to use of HDMI 2 and multiple displays. It basically says that if you do not turn off the displays auto selection of HDMI input signals you will have dropouts as the display senses to see what HDMI input has a signal. It also suggests that when using HDMI1 and HDM2 the handshake will be the EDID of the display connected to HDMI 1 even if the display on HDMI2 has different requirements.
> 
> HAPPY NEW YEAR !
> May 2015 bring us new Anthem toys to work with that have 11 channel audio, 4K, HDMI 2.2, HDCP 2.2, USB and ethernet


Interesting, Let me try to disable on the other displays. The Splitter I am using sends a fixed EDIC to the Anthem. But I'll review that setting as well.

And I did mean an audio embedder. It would allow me to take the REC SPDIF out from the Anthem and insert it into the the secondary HDMI chain. Kind of figured that would solve the whole audio issue


----------



## AVfile

JDCaduceus said:


> Did your test and No sound from RCA to Front L RCA input - However I did get sound in my front left speaker when I switched my XLR Front L to the XLR sub 1 - so I figure it is a bad RCA, or something with my sub (a switch or something) I don't know. Still don't know why this is difficult. It should not be


That test makes no sense, connecting a sub to an input!

I saw that you posted a pic of the sub's rear panel but not sure if you showed us the Anthem's rear panel connections. Can we verify that you are connecting the subwoofer to "SUB 1 MAIN AUDIO - OUT" not the "SUB 6-CHANNEL IN" ?

Also did you see my other post 5 days ago about connecting a different source device directly to the sub? You should have received a forum reply notification, unless I am invisible.


----------



## thestewman

^
Easy big guy its holiday and many people are doing other things to appease the WIF and are not able to invest time in enjoying their toys.

In answer to: "That test makes no sense, connecting a sub to an input!"
He miss worded what he was trying to say

We know he has sound to the left front speaker
We know he has no sound to the B&W sub


" RCA test from Line in (Sub) to RCA LFront on Processor = no sound "

" XLR test - Moved XLR from Left Front to Sub 1 on Processor = sound "


----------



## bluemark81

My Simaudio Titan 5 ch power amp just bit the biscuit and until I either get it fixed or find a replacement, I was going to connect a soundbar to my D2v. First of all, is that possible? I thought I would use the zone 2 outputs fed into the RCA inputs on my soundbar, but I am not getting any audio. I've pressed the zone 2 button on the top left of the D2v and selected my source. I have selected the proper input on my soundbar, but no sound. Any hints?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

If you are trying to play a digital audio source you need to pass it through the Main path. 

Copy Main to Zone 2, and select the source using Main. 
--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

Bob Pariseau said:


> If you are trying to play a digital audio source you need to pass it through the Main path.
> 
> Copy Main to Zone 2, and select the source using Main.
> --Bob



Thanks Bob. I got sound albeit I can't get much volume. I suspect volume is now independent of the Anthem and is solely controlled by my soundbar? This is a bigger room than where the soundbar is normally set up, but I have the volume of the soundbar at its max and the total output is average at best. Is the something within the D2v that can increase this?


----------



## tranle

bluemark81 said:


> Thanks Bob. I got sound albeit I can't get much volume. I suspect volume is now independent of the Anthem and is solely controlled by my soundbar? This is a bigger room than where the soundbar is normally set up, but I have the volume of the soundbar at its max and the total output is average at best. Is the something within the D2v that can increase this?


I think that you have select 'Z2' (Zone2) to control the volume on your secondary zone volume.


----------



## bluemark81

tranle said:


> I think that you have select 'Z2' (Zone2) to control the volume on your secondary zone volume.



I have to select zone 2 to get sound. The D2v's volume doesn't control it.


----------



## tranle

bluemark81 said:


> I have to select zone 2 to get sound. The D2v's volume doesn't control it.


In the manual (Chapter 3.10) volumes / path names seems to say that zone 2/3 could have their own volume level unless their own volume are locked. (Disclaimer: I do not use multiple zone so cannot verify that it works as documented).


----------



## bluemark81

tranle said:


> In the manual (Chapter 3.10) volumes / path names seems to say that zone 2/3 could have their own volume level unless their own volume are locked. (Disclaimer: I do not use multiple zone so cannot verify that it works as documented).



Yup, got it. I have to press the zone 2 button and quickly turn the volume up on the Anthem before it switches back to "main" from zone 2. Once I set it at the maximum level I would want, I can turn down the volume on my soundbar. Thanks.


----------



## dweltman

There was a press release for DTS discussing their competitor for Atmos, and it listed Anthem as one of the companies who would release product in 2015.


----------



## stanger89

Crap, more stuff I have to save for this year


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I think the odds are good any new-fangled whiz-bangs like that will show up in an MRX AVR well before it shows up in in an Anthem pre-pro.

AVR customers have been known to buy anything.
--Bob


----------



## NextLevel217

*D3v*

If that's true. That's pretty sad! The D2v is long overdue for an upgrade. My dealer won't even sell them anymore. He says he has talked to Anthem and they don't seem to have any interest in updating it in the near future.


----------



## MitchPope

Curiosity got the better of me and I picked up a used D2 last week, was able to update the FW to 1.33 and run ARC using the kit from my MRX 300. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it. Only problem I've had is that it does not like my Darblet at all. Keeps handshaking every 20 seconds or so even with explicit resolution and colour space settings.


----------



## drhankz

MitchPope said:


> Curiosity got the better of me and I picked up a used D2 last week, was able to update the FW to 1.33 and run ARC using the kit from my MRX 300. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it. Only problem I've had is that it does not like my Darblet at all. Keeps handshaking every 20 seconds or so even with explicit resolution and colour space settings.


It sounds like a *Cable Problem* but my *PERSONAL*
recommendation is --- THROW AWAY the Darbee.

Your D2 is BETTER


----------



## stanger89

drhankz said:


> recommendation is --- THROW AWAY the Darbee.
> 
> Your D2 is BETTER


What does that mean? That's like saying a fish is better than a car. The D2 and Darbee do completely different things.


----------



## JDCaduceus

Stew or Bob

I have narrowed it down. The problem is with my 2 B&W ASW750 subs. I connected a third sub to the XLR Sub 1 line out from the Anthem to the RCA line in of the 3rd sub and it produces sound. I can't imagine that both B&W subs have loose wires (that is too much of a coincidence). My only other thought is the fuses. Both subs are receiving a signal from the Anthem (Light turns green on both subs). Now I recently installed a new 20amp series on my outlets in this room. It is possible that the new line (when installed) could have surged both subs causing the fuses to break. The fuses are ceramic fuses 6.3a 250v slow burst. Could the B&W subs still receive power when plugged in (Red light comes on) but the amp itself not work because the fuses are bad? Could that be the issue?

I am running out of options here and just can't understand what is the problem - at least I have it down to the subs and the processor is fine.

thanks for your time and help
Conrad


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You sure you haven't just turned the volume all the way down on both subs?
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

JDCaduceus said:


> Stew or Bob
> 
> I have narrowed it down. The problem is with my 2 B&W ASW750 subs. I connected a third sub to the XLR Sub 1 line out from the Anthem to the RCA line in of the 3rd sub and it produces sound. I can't imagine that both B&W subs have loose wires (that is too much of a coincidence). My only other thought is the fuses. Both subs are receiving a signal from the Anthem (Light turns green on both subs). Now I recently installed a new 20amp series on my outlets in this room. It is possible that the new line (when installed) could have surged both subs causing the fuses to break. The fuses are ceramic fuses 6.3a 250v slow burst. Could the B&W subs still receive power when plugged in (Red light comes on) but the amp itself not work because the fuses are bad? Could that be the issue?
> 
> I am running out of options here and just can't understand what is the problem - at least I have it down to the subs and the processor is fine.
> 
> thanks for your time and help
> Conrad


Conrad
When you tested with the third sub did you use the same RCA wire from the Anthem ?
How do you have the 2nd sub connected ?

The new 20amp line is 120-130v ?
I think with the lamp showing red at turn on the fuses are OK
At what point or how are you getting a green light ?


----------



## JDCaduceus

Stew and Bob

Bob of course the volume is mid range on both subs. 

Stew 
I used the same wire from the XLR Sub1 output on the Anthem to the RCA input of the sub. Nothing. I changed the subs to a different model (Klipsch) I think, and it produced a sound. FYI the new 20amp line is 120v. I am getting a green light when I test the calibration sound on the menu for the subs. I should just video what I am doing so you guys have a better idea. I really am at a loss. 

I ordered some new fuses from B&W to see if that is the issue. Other than that, it has to be something simple. Both subs can't be out. Just weird really weird.

Something else - I have the B&W subs setup exactly where the frequency on the LPF is maxed and the volume is midrange, the LPF is set to "out" and the RCA is coming to the line in on the sub. I set the Sub to Auto to see if it changed from a red to green light when the Anthem sent it a calibration signal and IT DID! So I know the sub is receiving a signal from the anthem - no doubt. 

So if the fuses are not the issue the only thing left is the Amp itself - but I can't imagine BOTH amps are bad. Just not probable. Cant see it but anything is possible. What do you guys think?


----------



## Orbitron

dweltman said:


> There was a press release for DTS discussing their competitor for Atmos, and it listed Anthem as one of the companies who would release product in 2015.


Contacted Anthem tech support for information on new product with Atmos or DTS:X - their reply, currently, there is no information with regards to future Anthem products with such features. We here at Anthem like to guarantee our products are engineered to the highest possible standards, however, this does take time.
Did not receive a reply to my other question, would there be a trade-in program for Anthem owners? I have the Statement D2v3D, it's about 2 years old.


----------



## JDCaduceus

Could be that Anthem offers a firmware upgrade. But I am surely not an expert on Atmos. I would hope that anthems existing hardware could handle atmos and all that would be needed is a firmware upgrade


----------



## thestewman

JDCaduceus said:


> Stew and Bob
> 
> Bob of course the volume is mid range on both subs.
> 
> Stew
> I used the same wire from the XLR Sub1 output on the Anthem to the RCA input of the sub. Nothing. I changed the subs to a different model (Klipsch) I think, and it produced a sound. FYI the new 20amp line is 120v. I am getting a green light when I test the calibration sound on the menu for the subs. I should just video what I am doing so you guys have a better idea. I really am at a loss.
> 
> I ordered some new fuses from B&W to see if that is the issue. Other than that, it has to be something simple. Both subs can't be out. Just weird really weird.
> 
> Something else - I have the B&W subs setup exactly where the frequency on the LPF is maxed and the volume is midrange, the LPF is set to "out" and the RCA is coming to the line in on the sub. I set the Sub to Auto to see if it changed from a red to green light when the Anthem sent it a calibration signal and IT DID! So I know the sub is receiving a signal from the anthem - no doubt.
> 
> So if the fuses are not the issue the only thing left is the Amp itself - but I can't imagine BOTH amps are bad. Just not probable. Cant see it but anything is possible. What do you guys think?



Comrad

You did not answer....How do you have the 2nd sub connected ?
Try swapping the fuses from one sub to the other.


----------



## JDCaduceus

Sorry Stew. Here is the connection

XLR sub 1 out to RCA sub 1 line in L 

XLR sub 2 out to RCA sub 2 line in R. 

I have the speaker config set to 2 subs

I have also tried to set speaker config to 1 sub and simply use the following. 

XLR sub 1 out to RCA sub 1 line in L

Haven't tried to switch fuses but will try later tonight. 

Thanks for all the help. Really frustrating as this should be easy!!!


----------



## thestewman

JDCaduceus said:


> Sorry Stew. Here is the connection
> 
> XLR sub 1 out to RCA sub 1 line in L
> 
> XLR sub 2 out to RCA sub 2 line in R.
> 
> I have the speaker config set to 2 subs
> 
> I have also tried to set speaker config to 1 sub and simply use the following.
> 
> XLR sub 1 out to RCA sub 1 line in L
> 
> Haven't tried to switch fuses but will try later tonight.
> 
> Thanks for all the help. Really frustrating as this should be easy!!!


" But I see a RCA connector not XLR " 
That may be the problem some connector conversions from XLR to RCA use a different wiring
Sequence
Try a RCA to RCA not XLR to RCA
In your Anthem select in set up only 1 sub not 2 subs
Connect your Anthem Sub 1 output to the right Sub 1 input 
Connect your Anthem Sub 2 output to the right sub 2 input


----------



## tngiloy

JDCaduceus said:


> Sorry Stew. Here is the connection
> 
> XLR sub 1 out to RCA sub 1 line in L
> 
> XLR sub 2 out to RCA sub 2 line in R.
> 
> I have the speaker config set to 2 subs
> 
> I have also tried to set speaker config to 1 sub and simply use the following.
> 
> XLR sub 1 out to RCA sub 1 line in L
> 
> Haven't tried to switch fuses but will try later tonight.
> 
> Thanks for all the help. Really frustrating as this should be easy!!!


 


I noticed reading the manual for your subs that the 'LOW PASS FILTER' should be set to 'OUT'. In your picture it is set to 'IN'.
Have you tried toggling that switch on the back of your sub??


Tom


----------



## JDCaduceus

Stew 

I originally had RCA to RCA that did not work. So I tried XLR to RCA and that did not work. 

I originally did what you suggested - 

Connected Anthem Sub 1 RCA Out to Sub 1 RCA line in "L"

Connected Anthem Sub 2 RCA Out to Sub 2 RCA line in "R"

Is that what you are suggesting above?

If so, nothing  

I will try and switch fuses from one sub to another and see what happens.


----------



## JDCaduceus

Thanks Tom - yes I set it to "out" that was a pic I took when I first started this journey! 

Tom do you or anyone know that since the B&W ASW750 is not THX certified that having the setting on the anthem speaker config for the sub Xover set at 80Hz THX if that makes a difference? I can't see why not but anything is possible. Thoughts?


----------



## tngiloy

JDCaduceus said:


> Thanks Tom - yes I set it to "out" that was a pic I took when I first started this journey!


Sorry, I missed that post.
If it is a fuse you should be able to inspect it to see if it has blown. As you know, a fuse is designed to be the weakest link in the power line. If it encountered a surge and burned out, the filament should be visibly disrupted. If you can't see the filament because the fuse is smoked on the inside, it is burnt out. Rather than wait for B&W fuse you may be able to find the same fuse at a music/guitar store like Guitar City in your area. Maybe even RS or HD. Fuse is 'T 6.3 A H 250v'. They are relatively cheap. Good luck.


Tom


----------



## JDCaduceus

Tom - even if it is a ceramic fuse? I can't see inside it and it looks all white on the outside. Also would the subs power up even if the fuse was blown? thanks again Conrad


----------



## stanger89

JDCaduceus said:


> Could be that Anthem offers a firmware upgrade. But I am surely not an expert on Atmos. I would hope that anthems existing hardware could handle atmos and all that would be needed is a firmware upgrade


Hate to keep being the naysayer, but don't get your hopes up. The whole point of Atmos is to add *additional* speakers in new, different locations in the room (most notably in the ceiling). 

That said, there are 10 output channels on the back of the D2V/50V, so there are a couple things they could do (assuming they are all independent). They could allow use of say the surround back channels to do a 5.1.2 setup:
http://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/dolby-atmos-speaker-setup/5-1-2-setups.html

If they allowed use of say Sub-2 and Ctr-2 (if this is even possible), then theoretically they could do a 5.1.4:
http://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/dolby-atmos-speaker-setup/5-1-4-setups.html
or 7.1.2 configuration:
http://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/dolby-atmos-speaker-setup/7-1-2-setups.html

However given that all the outputs on the Anthem SSPs are already dedicated to existing channels, and that they haven't opted yet to overload existing outputs for height channels (DPL IIz), and especially given this underlying Anthem philosophy:
"We here at Anthem like to guarantee our products are engineered to the highest possible standards, however, this does take time."

I think it's unlikely they will opt to go the "simple"/easy way out and just allow these basic setups. I expect an Atmos/DTS:X compatible Anthem SSP will offer/require possibly many more output channels. Probably more like a Trinnov Altitude 32 or Datasat RS20i, something more like 16+ channels.

Though this does give me an interesting thought, spurred by this and Bob's comment. I would not be a be too surprised if the way that Anthem checks off the box of having Atmos/DTS:X this year is to make 5.1.2 an option on their MRX line. 

Thought it would be pretty sweet if they offered a 7.1.2 possibility using the Sub2/Ctr2 on their current SSPs. Assuming the DSPs are powerful enough for it.


----------



## thestewman

Time for Anthem to redesign the rear panel and eliminate S-video and composite video.
No purchaser of a $10,000.00 SSP would be using them


----------



## thestewman

JDCaduceus said:


> Stew
> 
> I originally had RCA to RCA that did not work. So I tried XLR to RCA and that did not work.
> 
> I originally did what you suggested -
> 
> Connected Anthem Sub 1 RCA Out to Sub 1 RCA line in "L"
> 
> Connected Anthem Sub 2 RCA Out to Sub 2 RCA line in "R"
> 
> Is that what you are suggesting above?
> 
> If so, nothing
> 
> I will try and switch fuses from one sub to another and see what happens.



Yes to all above especially using the RCA instaed of the XLR to RCA. It has no benefit

You will need a voltmeter to check the continuity of the fuses. You cannot view inside a ceramic fuse.
Or a simple automotive 12 volt test probe to see if current flows across the fuse
Or worse case a flashlight bulb and a battery and a short piece of wire.
Place the fuse between positive terminal of the battery and the center contact of the bulb and the wire from the battery bottom to the bulb body, not the center contact that should be touching the fuse.
A bit of a juggling trying to hold the three pieces together or tape it together but it will test the fuse, 
If the Bulb lights the fuse is good


----------



## JDCaduceus

Stew

Set it up just as above - 

Connected Anthem sub 1 RCA out to Sub 1 RCA line in "L" - set speaker config menu movie to "1 sub"

Sub 1 settings: LPF set to "out"; frequency set to max; volume mid range; phase 0; EQ set to A; 

Calibration test = no sound

FYI I did test all fuses with my multimeter - all are good. Something tells me now that it is either a setting on the anthem that is not jiving with the subs or that both subs amps are bad (which I can't imagine both going bad at the same time). 

I am about to beat my head into the wall...lol

Thoughts on how to proceed?

thanks again
C


----------



## CharlieU

JDCaduceus said:


> FYI I did test all fuses with my multimeter - all are good. Something tells me now that it is either a setting on the anthem that is not jiving with the subs or that both subs amps are bad (which I can't imagine both going bad at the same time).
> 
> I am about to beat my head into the wall...lol
> 
> Thoughts on how to proceed?


Considering you were able to get sound with the Klipsch sub and the B&W subs do give a green light when a signal is applied, it may be time to imagine that both subs went "bad" at the same time. Whether bad means a hardware failure or just some setting on the sub, your troubleshooting efforts should be concentrated on the subs. Your Anthem appears to be working properly.


----------



## tngiloy

JDCaduceus said:


> Tom - even if it is a ceramic fuse? I can't see inside it and it looks all white on the outside. Also would the subs power up even if the fuse was blown? thanks again Conrad





CharlieU said:


> Considering you were able to get sound with the Klipsch sub and the B&W subs do give a green light when a signal is applied, it may be time to imagine that both subs went "bad" at the same time. Whether bad means a hardware failure or just some setting on the sub, your troubleshooting efforts should be concentrated on the subs. Your Anthem appears to be working properly.


 
Conrad,
I have only dealt with clear fuses that you can see thru, but if you tested the fuses, and they passed, then they are OK.
CharlieU nailed it. If you were able to get sound from the Klipsh sub from your Anthem then the problem is in the subs.
Did you use the same output connections from the Anthem and cables when testing the Klipsh as you used with the B&W's?
How did you test it? Did you go to 'Level Calbration' in the Anthem setup or just listen to movie/music.


The only other suggestion I would offer is in the last paragraph of the B&W manual -see thumbnail.
My guess is that you have already done this in all your testing. 


One way to test the sub would be to hook it up to another system with a receiver or processor you know is working(or move the receiver to your sub), but that would be a real PITA.
Sorry that you are having so much trouble. 
Tom


----------



## JDCaduceus

Thanks Tom and Charlie I appreciate all the help. Do either of you or does stew or Bob know if I can simply remove the amp from the rear of the sub and send that to the Bowers and Wilkins repair group? Or do I have to send the entire sub to the Bowers and Wilkins repair group for repair?it would be so much easier to simply remove the amp and send it to the Bowers and Wilkins repair group instead of the entire sub. I believe the issue is narrowed down to the amp and nothing else.

Tom and Charlie you are correct, I plan on bringing the subs to one of my friends A/V shops and have them tested outon another system to see if they are working. I have a feeling they're not going to work. Since I have invested around $5000 for both subs, I think the best course of action will be to send the subs to the Bowers and Wilkins repair group. I don't feel like paying another five to $6000 for two more B&W subs when I can simply repair these. My only question is that since the subs were manufactured back in the early 2000's (2004 to 2007) I am hopeful that Bowers and looking to repair these. After looking on the Bowers and Wilkins repair group website I noticed that the amps for the subs are completely out of stock. That usually means that they no longer continue to produce these amps.do you believe that they will be able to repair the amps if I send them to Bowers what is your pet group? Have any of you had any experience with sending items to the Bowers and Wilkins repair group?.

I really don't think sending these to a local shop or dealer is the answer. I think this situation requires sending the subs to the Bowers and Wilkins repair group. What do you guys think?

thanks for all your help. It is extremely frustrating, as I'm sure you all know to have your new anthem processor set up and ready to go but your two subs are not working. it makes you think sometimes when you spend all this money on high-end audio equipment that it could just die at any moment without any fault of your own. Very frustrating.

Let me know what you all think based on the above questions with respect about The Bowers and Wilkins repair group.. It's probably my last option

Thanks again for all of your time Conrad


----------



## thestewman

JDCaduceus said:


> Stew
> 
> Set it up just as above -
> 
> Connected Anthem sub 1 RCA out to Sub 1 RCA line in "L" - set speaker config menu movie to "1 sub"
> 
> Sub 1 settings: LPF set to "out"; frequency set to max; volume mid range; phase 0; EQ set to A;
> 
> Calibration test = no sound
> 
> FYI I did test all fuses with my multimeter - all are good. Something tells me now that it is either a setting on the anthem that is not jiving with the subs or that both subs amps are bad (which I can't imagine both going bad at the same time).
> 
> I am about to beat my head into the wall...lol
> 
> Thoughts on how to proceed?
> 
> thanks again
> C


Conrad

You never answered how you have or if the second sub is even hooked up during this testing?
Please move the RCA cable from the *Left SUb 1 input* to the *right Sub 1 input* and test again for sound

And lastly would you try this again step by step. .Every step. Take nothing for granted
Power everything off including the sub main power switch
Remove any audio connections to the sub

Plug one end of a good RCA cable into the Anthem RCA Main Audio Out Left Front speaker output.
Plug the opposite end into your sub's Right RCA input.
Power up everything. Check the sub mode switch is set to auto.
The Led indicator on the sub should be red
Play an audio signal. The sub indicator should turn green.
Sound ?

If this does not work I believe a call or email to B&W would be appropriate


----------



## bluemark81

drhankz said:


> It sounds like a *Cable Problem* but my *PERSONAL*
> recommendation is --- THROW AWAY the Darbee.
> 
> Your D2 is BETTER


I love my D2v + Darbee combo.


----------



## JDCaduceus

stew - tried your suggestion = no sound. Emailing BWGroup tonight. thanks for all your help. Will post the responsiveness and diagnosis/end result after B&W group works with me to resolve this. 


thanks again and appreciate all the help.
C


----------



## esander3

JDCaduceus said:


> stew - tried your suggestion = no sound. Emailing BWGroup tonight. thanks for all your help. Will post the responsiveness and diagnosis/end result after B&W group works with me to resolve this.
> 
> 
> thanks again and appreciate all the help.
> C


 
I believe you said that you just changed your power to a dedicated 20A circuit. Some Subs have problems with power if the hot and neutral lines are reversed. I know that REL has picky power needs, not sure about B&W. Try plugging the subs into a different outlet.

Trouble shoot 1 sub at a time... You are trying to get sound from 1 sub first.


----------



## thestewman

esander3 said:


> I believe you said that you just changed your power to a dedicated 20A circuit. Some Subs have problems with power if the hot and neutral lines are reversed. I know that REL has picky power needs, not sure about B&W. Try plugging the subs into a different outlet.
> 
> Trouble shoot 1 sub at a time... You are trying to get sound from 1 sub first.


Good suggestion. 
What is troubling is the audio sensing circuits are working properly and the sub powers on. For some reason the internal sub amp, probably some kind of 1000w plate amp does not have any output.


----------



## gerard1meehan

gerard1meehan said:


> Interesting, Let me try to disable on the other displays. The Splitter I am using sends a fixed EDIC to the Anthem. But I'll review that setting as well.
> 
> And I did mean an audio embedder. It would allow me to take the REC SPDIF out from the Anthem and insert it into the the secondary HDMI chain. Kind of figured that would solve the whole audio issue


So I installed the HDMI audio embedder just before the splitter on my HDMI 2 out and all is working as hoped. Perhaps this isn't the way HDMI 2 was designed to be implemented but it works the way I wanted/needed it to.

Remember Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do.


----------



## JDCaduceus

Stew

I finally figured out what was wrong. Detached my amps on both subs tonight and connected both subs to a direct power source to play some content on low volume. Both subs drivers were bad - even though they looked fine, the sounds coming out of both were horrendous. So I ordered two new drivers for both subs. I also sent back the amps to B&W group for review and repair. When I get it all back I basically will have two new subs! Thanks for all your help. I knew this was way easier than what I was doing. Just happy we figured it out. 

C


----------



## thestewman

JDCaduceus said:


> Stew
> 
> I finally figured out what was wrong. Detached my amps on both subs tonight and connected both subs to a direct power source to play some content on low volume. Both subs drivers were bad - even though they looked fine, the sounds coming out of both were horrendous. So I ordered two new drivers for both subs. I also sent back the amps to B&W group for review and repair. When I get it all back I basically will have two new subs! Thanks for all your help. I knew this was way easier than what I was doing. Just happy we figured it out.
> 
> C


Yes, quite a journey. What are the odds that both subs would be bad ?
I wonder what blew both drivers unless the amps leaked DC or some weird thing or you wrere previously cranking them beyond their capability


----------



## RobDec

*Test Level Noise*

Hi
Does the Test Level Noise setting adjust the test level (just pink noise) or does it actually adjust the levels when playing a movie, cd etc...
My guess is just the pink noise but would like to know for sure.

Thank you 
Rob


----------



## Kris Deering

Pink noise


----------



## RobDec

Thanks Kris


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Hi
> Does the Test Level Noise setting adjust the test level (just pink noise) or does it actually adjust the levels when playing a movie, cd etc...
> My guess is just the pink noise but would like to know for sure.
> 
> Thank you
> Rob





Kris Deering said:


> Pink noise


No It is more than for pink noise.
It used during set up.
It is used for setting the speaker levels that Anthem calls level calibration.
This is not the same as when you set up ARC levels which has no effect on the speaker levels during operation adjusted during operation by using the remote or front panel trim controls


----------



## RobDec

Thanks thestewman
Thank you for your explanation! 
If you don't mind me asking,"How does the Test Level work?" My guess is if you raise the Test Level you raise the speaker levels accordingly.

I have another question , "sonically how does the D2V 3d compare with the AVM50v 3d?" Is it night and day or just subtle.?"

Once again thank you! You have been a big help these past 2 months.

Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Thanks thestewman
> Thank you for your explanation!
> If you don't mind me asking,"How does the Test Level work?" My guess is if you raise the Test Level you raise the speaker levels accordingly.
> 
> I have another question , "sonically how does the D2V 3d compare with the AVM50v 3d?" Is it night and day or just subtle.?"
> 
> Once again thank you! You have been a big help these past 2 months.
> 
> Rob


Refer to the D2v manual page 30 / Sec 3.5 for Level Calibration. Using a Sound Pressure Level 
meter you can set the individual speakers to match.

Don't confuse this with Bob P's ARC setup using the Test Noise.
And you can make on the fly *temporary *adjustments using the remote or front panel buttons that override your setup levels but do not change them.

Not owning a AVM50v I have no way to directly compare them. The ability of the D2v to process up to 24/192 and convert any input to 24/192 is a plus especially for hirez and analog
music.
I would guess that for home theater the ability of both units to process DTS and Dolby lossless would be sounding equally good


----------



## AVfile

Rob,
Which unit do you have again?
You should be using ARC to calibrate the relative speaker levels but an SPL meter will still come in handy. ARC tries to calibrate everything to 75dB but if your sub gain is set too high or low relative to your amp gain (normally fixed unless you have pro amps) it may not have enough adjustment range to accomplish this. So the test noise is used to set the first main speaker to 75dB, then you can adjust the sub's gain to match this level. Then you can run ARC to complete the calibration. 

The 50v does everything the D2v does including 24/192 but it is a slightly different DAC. For analog the ADC would be the same. DSP power is also the same. Where the D2v has the theoretical advantage is the UP-Sampling capability of the DAC; all signals are converted to 24/192 before being converted to analog. The 50v processes all signals at their input sampling rates. The difference is generally subtle, and probably most noticeable playing 16/44 music (CDs) in a 2-channel audiophile environment.


----------



## RobDec

Thanks AVfile
I have the AVM50v 3d. For redbook CDs and vinyl I use 2.0+pl2 (I like the surround). DVDs I use 5.1+ PL2 or 2.0+PL2, and DTS 5.1+neo. For Blurays I use 7.1 or DTS HD MA and Dolby HD 5.1+ PL2. For SACD and DVD-A I use AnalogDSP 5.1+PL2. Based on these settings do you think I should upgrade to D2v 3d?

The reason I asked about test level is I was checking if all levels were set to 75dbs(they were and I didn't change) but I accidently changed the Test Level to +1.0 Dbs and my left rear seemed louder. It could be just a placebo type of thing.

Rob


----------



## thestewman

AVfile said:


> Rob,
> Which unit do you have again?
> You should be using ARC to calibrate the relative speaker levels but an SPL meter will still come in handy. ARC tries to calibrate everything to 75dB but if your sub gain is set too high or low relative to your amp gain (normally fixed unless you have pro amps) it may not have enough adjustment range to accomplish this. So the test noise is used to set the first main speaker to 75dB, then you can adjust the sub's gain to match this level. Then you can run ARC to complete the calibration.
> 
> The 50v does everything the D2v does including 24/192 but it is a slightly different DAC. For analog the ADC would be the same. DSP power is also the same. Where the D2v has the theoretical advantage is the UP-Sampling capability of the DAC; all signals are converted to 24/192 before being converted to analog. The 50v processes all signals at their input sampling rates. The difference is generally subtle, and probably most noticeable playing 16/44 music (CDs) in a 2-channel audiophile environment.


We all have a favorite way of configuring our units.
Some variations in setup because of different components and operation would be expected.
So maybe additional clarification.
The D2v has superior computing power with more powerful and dual DSP processors and superior Analog-to-Digital/Digital-to-Analog conversion

The AVM50v is only capable of 
A/D capable of up to 24-bit x 96-kHz resolution
D/A operates at 24-bit x 192-kHz resolution

The D2v DACs do 24bit x 192 of all audio and full 128X oversampling 

The Level Calibration using a Sound Pressure Level meter to set the individual speakers to match each other is important to be done for several reasons before doing ARC
What about sources that are set up and do not use ARC
The audiophile or purist who uses analog direct or stereo sources.
Or DSD, multi channel or stereo which Anthem cannot handle


----------



## RobDec

Thanks thestewman
Its always a pleasure to learn!

Rob


----------



## AVfile

RobDec said:


> Thanks AVfile
> I have the AVM50v 3d. For redbook CDs and vinyl I use 2.0+pl2 (I like the surround). DVDs I use 5.1+ PL2 or 2.0+PL2, and DTS 5.1+neo. For Blurays I use 7.1 or DTS HD MA and Dolby HD 5.1+ PL2. For SACD and DVD-A I use AnalogDSP 5.1+PL2. Based on these settings do you think I should upgrade to D2v 3d?


I have the same unit but only use digital sources in my HT system so I decided the D2v would not be worth the extra $2k at the time I purchased. If it were my only preamp in the house I probably would have gone for it. On paper the D2v does have the edge over the 50v. The question of sound quality difference has come up in this thread a few times over the last few years, but very few people have made this particular upgrade and I don't think anyone has come forward with results of a proper A/B comparison. (More people have made the upgrade from AVM-50 or D2 to D2v and THAT difference is reported to be substantial.) 

According to the Anthem comparison chart the only differences are: 


differential circuit on 6-channel analog input
24/192 upsampling
premium ADCs and DACs
premium parts in analog audio section
faceplate

I have experimented with variable upsampling on a very high-end stereo and found the effects to be subtle shifts in the soundstage, image size, and a sometimes undesirable thickening of the sound if the sample rate is taken too far. It seems to me like a very personal thing and also dependent on the source material. Given that you like your surround and DSP modes, and that ARC is equalizing the whole thing I would expect these effects to be lost or at least partially cancelled out. 

However given that you are also using analog sources you may get some benefit from the "premium" chipset. The differential 6-ch circuit would probably lower the noise floor a bit, which is presumably already below human-perceptible levels. You aren't missing any real functionality, just some parts with better specs and upsampling, so it all boils down to that last bit of sound quality and how painful the upgrade process would be for you. Is the rest of your system and room treatment dialed in to the max?



thestewman said:


> We all have a favorite way of configuring our units.
> Some variations in setup because of different components and operation would be expected.
> So maybe additional clarification.
> The D2v has superior computing power with more powerful and dual DSP processors and superior Analog-to-Digital/Digital-to-Analog conversion
> 
> The AVM50v is only capable of
> A/D capable of up to 24-bit x 96-kHz resolution
> D/A operates at 24-bit x 192-kHz resolution
> 
> The D2v DACs do 24bit x 192 of all audio and full 128X oversampling


I was trying to cover the basics first.

Not true regarding the DSP computing power, you may have been thinking about the original AVM-50. Anthem closed the gap with the ARC upgrade and then again with the 50v which got the same dual-DSP chips as the Statement series.

I forgot about the "premium ADC" but, since we are talking about numbers, digitization is still 24/96 in both units. It is the "premium DAC" that brings everything up to 192k in the Statement (that is post DSP which runs up to 192k in BOTH units). This was discussed before and confirmed by Nick @ Anthem.



> The Level Calibration using a Sound Pressure Level meter to set the individual speakers to match each other is important to be done for several reasons before doing ARC
> What about sources that are set up and do not use ARC
> The audiophile or purist who uses analog direct or stereo sources.
> Or DSD, multi channel or stereo which Anthem cannot handle


Good point. I would still let ARC set the levels then turn off ROOM EQ or switch to analog direct for those sources. SPL meter can be used to check levels at the listening position, but if you find a discrepancy with ARC's levels which measuring system do you trust more?


----------



## RobDec

Thanks AVfile,
For the information. Based on your info and others I think I will stick with the AVM50v.

Rob


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## Johnsteph10

So, I guess that there still is no info about/from Anthem in regards to future products and/or upgrades to their product line.

I've had my D2v for close to 5 years now -- and VERY little has been added to it in that time in terms of additional functions or even significant firmware upgrades.

Just about every manufacturer has announced or released upgrades in that time that include many features our Anthems do not. I have been loyal since it is a great-sounding processor and ARC is excellent...but Anthem needs to get on the ball or it will disappear. Even many of the smaller volume "boutique" companies have far outpaced Anthem on feature sets and updated technology.

Is there ANY news from them?

Datasat and Trinnov look very tempting for boutique/small volume brands. The larger ones -- Denon/Marantz/Pioneer/Onkyo -- have their top end products either just released or coming soon with loads of features that cost far less than our very dated D2vs.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.


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## Orbitron

My recent contact with Anthem indicates it will be some time for implementation of the immersive modes in Anthem product. Sure doesn't sound like 2015; maybe someone from Anthem will see this and tell us more...


----------



## Nicoff

thestewman said:


> The Level Calibration using a Sound Pressure Level meter to set the individual speakers to match each other is important to be done for several reasons before doing ARC
> What about sources that are set up and do not use ARC
> The audiophile or purist who uses analog direct or stereo sources.
> Or DSD, multi channel or stereo which Anthem cannot handle


I was under the impression that once you run ARC, the level of each speaker that you chose manually is overridden by it. In other words, even if you are NOT applying the ARC measurements for a particular source (say analog direct), the speakers levels that ARC chose for each speaker apply to all.


----------



## Nicoff

Johnsteph10 said:


> So, I guess that there still is no info about/from Anthem in regards to future products and/or upgrades to their product line.
> 
> I've had my D2v for close to 5 years now -- and VERY little has been added to it in that time in terms of additional functions or even significant firmware upgrades.
> 
> Just about every manufacturer has announced or released upgrades in that time that include many features our Anthems do not. I have been loyal since it is a great-sounding processor and ARC is excellent...but Anthem needs to get on the ball or it will disappear. Even many of the smaller volume "boutique" companies have far outpaced Anthem on feature sets and updated technology.
> 
> Is there ANY news from them?
> 
> Datasat and Trinnov look very tempting for boutique/small volume brands. The larger ones -- Denon/Marantz/Pioneer/Onkyo -- have their top end products either just released or coming soon with loads of features that cost far less than our very dated D2vs.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks.





Orbitron said:


> My recent contact with Anthem indicates it will be some time for implementation of the immersive modes in Anthem product. Sure doesn't sound like 2015; maybe someone from Anthem will see this and tell us more...


I am on the same boat. No news from Anthem and indeed five plus years is way too long given the speed technological of advances in this field. I was reading recently how Lexicon went from being a leader in processors to a has-been (even rebadging products from other manufacturers). I was hoping for for some news from Anthem at CES but nothing. I am keeping my options open and yes Trinnov, Datasat, Casablanca all have moved the ball ahead.


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## stanger89

Johnsteph10 said:


> Just about every manufacturer has announced or released upgrades in that time that include many features our Anthems do not. I have been loyal since it is a great-sounding processor and ARC is excellent...but Anthem needs to get on the ball or it will disappear. Even many of the smaller volume "boutique" companies have far outpaced Anthem on feature sets and updated technology.


I'm curious, what exactly is missing from the D2V/50V? The only thing I can think of that's missing is Atmos, but that's still very new, and on very few discs.



> Datasat and Trinnov look very tempting for boutique/small volume brands. The larger ones -- Denon/Marantz/Pioneer/Onkyo -- have their top end products either just released or coming soon with loads of features that cost far less than our very dated D2vs.
> 
> Any thoughts?


Datasat and Trinnov sure sound nice, but as far as I know, are three to four times the price of a D2V or 50V (maybe more).


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## Kris Deering

thestewman said:


> No It is more than for pink noise.
> It used during set up.
> It is used for setting the speaker levels that Anthem calls level calibration.
> This is not the same as when you set up ARC levels which has no effect on the speaker levels during operation adjusted during operation by using the remote or front panel trim controls


Um, did you read my answer? He asked if the Test Level was for setup or trim during actual listening. I said it was for the pink noise tones, hence setup. I am well aware of what it is used for, it sets the level of the PINK NOISE TEST TONES used by Anthem for setting up channel levels, whether it is you doing it or ARC.


----------



## Kris Deering

Johnsteph10 said:


> So, I guess that there still is no info about/from Anthem in regards to future products and/or upgrades to their product line.
> 
> I've had my D2v for close to 5 years now -- and VERY little has been added to it in that time in terms of additional functions or even significant firmware upgrades.
> 
> Just about every manufacturer has announced or released upgrades in that time that include many features our Anthems do not. I have been loyal since it is a great-sounding processor and ARC is excellent...but Anthem needs to get on the ball or it will disappear. Even many of the smaller volume "boutique" companies have far outpaced Anthem on feature sets and updated technology.
> 
> Is there ANY news from them?
> 
> Datasat and Trinnov look very tempting for boutique/small volume brands. The larger ones -- Denon/Marantz/Pioneer/Onkyo -- have their top end products either just released or coming soon with loads of features that cost far less than our very dated D2vs.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks.


Yes, what do you want them to add? Most of what other companies have been adding are trivial DSP modes, usually based on the room correction they are using (DSX). Anthem already has one of the best room correction systems out there that works at a resolution that nearly none can touch. They don't have any modes for height or now Atmos/Auro, but what they do offer is some of the best sound quality possible at any price. Sure I'd like to see a D3, but until recently I haven't seen much for Anthem to try and add that they didn't already have in spades. For the D3 I'd love to see them walk away from video processing and offer full resolution HDMI switching for video only. Get rid of RS-232 and go to USB for ARC interface and FW updates. And support for new immersive formats with ARC offering same resolution room correction (96 kHz) but start working in the time domain as well. Plus support for multiple sub correction.


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## Nicoff

stanger89 said:


> I'm curious, what exactly is missing from the D2V/50V? The only thing I can think of that's missing is Atmos, but that's still very new, and on very few discs.


My interest is primarily audio more than video. DAC technology has improved quite a bit since the times when the D2/D2v were introduced. A $1,200 CD player like the Oppo 105 has better DACs than our D2/D2V processors. Moreover, the D2/D2v cannot handle native DSD files (the Oppo 105 can). So, for me, better DACs and DSD would be a good start.

As far as video, others in this thread have previously indicated all of the features that they would like to see in a revamped processor.

In technology you have leaders and followers. Leaders develop and/or incorporate new technologies in their products even if sometimes they are the one carrying the flag. That's why they are recognized as leaders! Anthem has been a leader in high-end processors. But if Anthem's new intent is to add features only after the marketplace is clamoring for them, that is fine, but then they would be just another follower.

According to DTS, Anthem is listed as one of the companies that will have a DTS:X capable product in 2015. Maybe Anthem is working on a big upgrade to the D2v (the D3?) and keeping their mouths shut. Or maybe, Anthem just wants out of the higher-end processor business and prefers to concentrate on their still good but not SOTA processors.


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## Nicoff

Kris Deering said:


> Get rid of RS-232 and go to USB for ARC interface and FW updates. And support for new immersive formats with ARC offering same resolution room correction (96 kHz) but start working in the time domain as well. Plus support for multiple sub correction.


Yes to all that! 

Also, I doubt that anyone buying a $10k processor still needs "s" video, component, and composite inputs/outputs. I counted over 40 such inputs/outputs in my D2; I don't use a single one of them! Eliminating them can reduce the height of the unit by a third! While at it, what about a mobile app that works?


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## stanger89

Kris Deering said:


> For the D3 I'd love to see them walk away from video processing and offer full resolution HDMI switching for video only. Get rid of RS-232 and go to USB for ARC interface and FW updates. And support for new immersive formats with ARC offering same resolution room correction (96 kHz) but start working in the time domain as well. Plus support for multiple sub correction.


I'll be in line right behind you for the AVM version of that


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## Kris Deering

I'd also add the one thing that perplexes me with every room correction solution, a true after correction verification stage that measures the results of the correction rather than calculating it. How this isn't a huge issue I'll never know. If video calibration solutions can offer objective post calibration measurements than audio should as well. Otherwise it seems like they are hiding the results.


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## thestewman

Kris Deering said:


> Um, did you read my answer? He asked if the Test Level was for setup or trim during actual listening. I said it was for the pink noise tones, hence setup. I am well aware of what it is used for, it sets the level of the PINK NOISE TEST TONES used by Anthem for setting up channel levels, whether it is you doing it or ARC.


Kris
My answer was not contradicting your answer. I was adding a bit more information since he was unsure about the noise level settings

_I was under the impression that once you run ARC, the level of each speaker that you chose manually is overridden by it. In other words, even if you are NOT applying the ARC measurements for a particular source (say analog direct), the speakers levels that ARC chose for each speaker apply to all._

Kris

The above is a good question from forum member Nicoff.
I am not at home for a bit so I cannot test and confirm.
Can you ?

Stew


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## thestewman

Kris Deering said:


> I'd also add the one thing that perplexes me with every room correction solution, a true after correction verification stage that measures the results of the correction rather than calculating it. How this isn't a huge issue I'll never know. If video calibration solutions can offer objective post calibration measurements than audio should as well. Otherwise it seems like they are hiding the results.


Or they lack the programming ability or maybe the processing power to apply the correction while performing a second processing test


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## Kris Deering

thestewman said:


> Kris Deering said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'd also add the one thing that perplexes me with every room correction solution, a true after correction verification stage that measures the results of the correction rather than calculating it. How this isn't a huge issue I'll never know. If video calibration solutions can offer objective post calibration measurements than audio should as well. Otherwise it seems like they are hiding the results.
> 
> 
> 
> Or they lack the programming ability or maybe the processing power to apply the correction while performing a second processing test
Click to expand...

This could very well be the case but since they use an outboard computer for all the testing and processing I have a hard time believing that once the filters are generated and loaded to the outboard processor (and thus taking the load off the program) that it can't take readings again. There shouldn't be any real processing hardships at work.


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## Kris Deering

thestewman said:


> Kris Deering said:
> 
> 
> 
> Um, did you read my answer? He asked if the Test Level was for setup or trim during actual listening. I said it was for the pink noise tones, hence setup. I am well aware of what it is used for, it sets the level of the PINK NOISE TEST TONES used by Anthem for setting up channel levels, whether it is you doing it or ARC.
> 
> 
> 
> Kris
> My answer was not contradicting your answer. I was adding a bit more information since he was unsure about the noise level settings
> 
> _I was under the impression that once you run ARC, the level of each speaker that you chose manually is overridden by it. In other words, even if you are NOT applying the ARC measurements for a particular source (say analog direct), the speakers levels that ARC chose for each speaker apply to all._
> 
> Kris
> 
> The above is a good question from forum member Nicoff.
> I am not at home for a bit so I cannot test and confirm.
> Can you ?
> 
> Stew
Click to expand...

If you run ARC it does apply those levels as the baseline levels for the processor and any inputs. But you can change them however you want whether as trims on the fly or via the main setup menu. They are not set in stone.


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## stanger89

Kris Deering said:


> I'd also add the one thing that perplexes me with every room correction solution, a true after correction verification stage that measures the results of the correction rather than calculating it. How this isn't a huge issue I'll never know. If video calibration solutions can offer objective post calibration measurements than audio should as well. Otherwise it seems like they are hiding the results.


The skeptic in me says they don't want you to know how far off it really is.


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## Kris Deering

stanger89 said:


> The skeptic in me says they don't want you to know how far off it really is.


Actually the results are pretty consistent when you use another piece of software to verify it. You do have to take into account that the measurements used for ARC are taken over a wide area so you're goal should be to use the same measurement points for verification and average them.


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## thestewman

Kris Deering said:


> This could very well be the case but since they use an outboard computer for all the testing and processing I have a hard time believing that once the filters are generated and loaded to the outboard processor (and thus taking the load off the program) that it can't take readings again. There shouldn't be any real processing hardships at work.


Would this be possible ?
Two separate laptops running the base program. The first sets all the filters etc and everything is in place. The second laptop runs the same program and is then reading the settings running realtime in the first computer.
Thoughts ?


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## tngiloy

Kris Deering said:


> For the D3 I'd love to see them_* walk away from video processing and offer full resolution HDMI switching for video only.*_ Get rid of RS-232 and go to USB for ARC interface and FW updates. And support for new immersive formats with ARC offering same resolution room correction (96 kHz) but _*start working in the time domain as well.*_ Plus support for _*multiple sub correction*_.


 


Great list Kris. 
If they don't want to completely get away from video processing, at least allow the option of completely bypassing and turning off the VP. With the video processing in my Oppo 103D I only use my D2v for audio (Oppo HDMI1 to display/Oppo HDMI2 to Anthem) and waste a lot of energy running a VP that is doing absolutely nothing. For those that really need a VP there are good outboard units available. The only reason I have the HDMI out from my Anthem is to access the setup menu.They could also make their setup a little more user friendly and better looking, like Oppo's for instance.


Multiple sub correction and phase matching would bring ARC to a whole new level and make ARC the undisputed king of room correction. I would hope that this is being worked on now.


The post correction reading by ARC would be interesting, but it would only be truly useful if you could actually build solutions like you can with the Audyssey Pro Kit. 


The fact that this is being dicussed on this thread means that most of us are using Anthem processors because we really like them. But it seems that Anthem has been resting on their laurels instead of actively improving their products. I hope I'm wrong and they are working on a new and improved D3 unit.
I also hope that they are listening to the suggestions from Kris and others here.
Tom


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## thestewman

Kris Deering said:


> If you run ARC it does apply those levels as the baseline levels for the processor and any inputs. But you can change them however you want whether as trims on the fly or via the main setup menu. They are not set in stone.


Thanks Kris. Just what I thought would be tha answer


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## Kris Deering

Two computers shouldn't be necessary. When you are running ARC all the data is sent to the laptop and the data is processed. The filters are calculated and any tweaks you want to make are incorporated. That data is then sent to the D2. Once that data is offloaded to the D2 and loaded, the laptop isn't doing any data processing anymore. You should be able to run full sweeps again but with the ARC solutions you previously loaded into the D2 incorporated. There is no reason it should have to clear everything everytime you run ARC.


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## Kris Deering

tngiloy said:


> Great list Kris.
> If they don't want to completely get away from video processing, at least allow the option of completely bypassing and turning off the VP. With the video processing in my Oppo 103D I only use my D2v for audio (Oppo HDMI1 to display/Oppo HDMI2 to Anthem) and waste a lot of energy running a VP that is doing absolutely nothing. For those that really need a VP there are good outboard units available. The only reason I have the HDMI out from my Anthem is to access the setup menu.They could also make their setup a little more user friendly and better looking, like Oppo's for instance.
> 
> 
> Multiple sub correction and phase matching would bring ARC to a whole new level and make ARC the undisputed king of room correction. I would hope that this is being worked on now.
> 
> 
> The post correction reading by ARC would be interesting, but it would only be truly useful if you could actually build solutions like you can with the Audyssey Pro Kit.
> 
> 
> The fact that this is being dicussed on this thread means that most of us are using Anthem processors because we really like them. But it seems that Anthem has been resting on their laurels instead of actively improving their products. I hope I'm wrong and they are working on a new and improved D3 unit.
> I also hope that they are listening to the suggestions from Kris and others here.
> Tom


The ability to customize a curve is nice (ala Audyssey Pro to a point) but I would MUCH rather have ARC's ability to set the max frequency to apply the EQ. I'm not a fan of applying EQ across the whole audible spectrum, this causes too many other issues. I like that Anthem gives you the option of only applying EQ to the frequency spectrum that really needs it and avoiding the frequencies that shouldn't get it.


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## stanger89

tngiloy said:


> The fact that this is being dicussed on this thread means that most of us are using Anthem processors because we really like them. But it seems that Anthem has been resting on their laurels instead of actively improving their products.


I guess I'm still not sure what people are wanting. Atmos/Auro are really the only new developments in audio since the D2V/50V came out, and those likely require an entirely new platform (chassis). DACs and the like, sure they sound good on paper (no pun intended) but the Anthems are already about the best sounding SSPs you can get, I'm skeptical newer DACs would improve anything, it's not like audio output is a new art or anything.



> I hope I'm wrong and they are working on a new and improved D3 unit.


I'd be pretty shocked if Anthem weren't working on a D3/AVM60. I'm not surprised at all they don't want to talk about future products.


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## gerard1meehan

stanger89 said:


> I guess I'm still not sure what people are wanting. Atmos/Auro are really the only new developments in audio since the D2V/50V came out, and those likely require an entirely new platform (chassis). DACs and the like, sure they sound good on paper (no pun intended) but the Anthems are already about the best sounding SSPs you can get, I'm skeptical newer DACs would improve anything, it's not like audio output is a new art or anything.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd be pretty shocked if Anthem weren't working on a D3/AVM60. I'm not surprised at all they don't want to talk about future products.


I can't see Anthem upgrading the Video side whether it be passthrough or full processing until 4K is finalized. A 4k Blu-ray format is finally being finalized as well according to the releases from CES.

As for the other audio formats I am interested of course. But we have so few 7.1 releases as is, and since DTS is finalizing their version of Atmos we will likely see a delay there as well.

My hope is 2016 see an new D3.


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## Bob Pariseau

^ 4K™ DRM rules (copy protection) and insuring sufficient processor horsepower to make all the bells whistle (whinny?) will be the hold-up. For example DTS has not yet revealed what sort of processing power is needed for DTS:X. If money is no object, you can throw a lot of DSP power onto a board, but then you also have to port the algorithms into code for those DSPs, which takes time. If money matters (and you don't want to own your own, ported code forever), you have to wait for the SystemOnChip guys to get it all together and start shipping the new SoCs.

Keep in mind that today's 4K, what's shipping now, is not "real" 4K -- i.e., the stuff that will be bound by the new standards, new licensing restrictions, new DRM, & etc.

You'll see lots of early, "real" 4K products announced, but read carefully and you'll find they all come with weasel words regarding whether it will really work AFTER everything settles out. Odds are there are going to be a lot of early adopters with expensive paperweights in a year or so. (Remember Samsung "checkerboard" 3D TVs?)

The first "real" 4K will be limited to stuff happening entirely inside TVs (broadcast, and internet streaming to an app built into the TV). Why? Because TVs don't have outputs, and so all the DRM issues are moot. Not today's 4K TVs, mind you. NEW 4K TVs that are built from the ground up for, e.g., REC 2020 video reproduction.

------------------------------------------

Folks who want separate calibration for separate Subwoofers need to think this through. Two "flat" subwoofers in a given room almost certainly do not produce "flat" results when played together. At these frequencies, their audio interacts significantly. Auto-setting for distance, volume and phase for individual, separate subwoofers is fine. But bass calibration needs to be done with them playing together.

------------------------------------------

The "immersive" audio stuff looks an awful lot like a fad to me. Remember 3D? Aw go on, think hard. You know. 3D. Remember?

Unless you are really going to spackle a bunch of extra speakers to your ceiling, you've got your choice of Dolby's bouncy-bouncy height or DTS' virtueless height -- both kinda sorta fabrications of the real thing. Either way, it is going to be an audio muddle. Processed audio.

Gaining height cues at the expense of audio quality is not a win in my opinion.

For folks who DO want to buy all those extra speakers (and the amps to drive them), life is going to be tough for a while. Anthem will probably have to play that game in the MRX line, but I think it would be a mistake for them to chase this fad in the pre-pros.
--Bob


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## tngiloy

stanger89 said:


> I guess I'm still not sure what people are wanting. Atmos/Auro are really the only new developments in audio since the D2V/50V came out, and those likely require an entirely new platform (chassis). DACs and the like, sure they sound good on paper (no pun intended) but the Anthems are already about the best sounding SSPs you can get, I'm skeptical newer DACs would improve anything, it's not like audio output is a new art or anything.


 
The improvements that many of us are asking for have been listed in the posts on the last few pages. They include such things as:
-Better dac's like the ESS sabre (used in the Oppo's among other highly rated equipment) that been developed since the D2 was developed using the then SOTA Burr-Browns.
-Newer improved rear panel connections, which would mean less connections for outdated formats like s-video and composite. I would also like at least 2 stereo balanced XLR audio connections. But that may just be me.
-Multiple (dual would be fine for most of us) subwoofer correction in ARC. And to make it clear, what I want is what Bob wants. Matching 2 subs to each other so that the act like one big sub. Then correcting the subs (as one) to the other speakers. That is what the newer Audyssey room correction and DSPeaker and SVS AS-EQ1 do. That is what ARC should also do.
-ARC setup and firmware upgrades should be done thru usb and/or Ethernet LAN connections. The rs-232 connection should remain for control systems like Creston, etc., but it is outdated for anything else.
-A more elegant setup menu that uses hdmi (not s-video) and is more user friendly.
-Video processing should be removed, or at the very least be allowed to be bypassed and turned off if not needed.
-Please forgive me if I have forgotten anything else.


I happen to agree with Bob about Atmos-like speaker setups. They are a fad and there will be receivers with the Atmos firmware available for those that want it. Maybe in the MX line.
In my room 7.1 is plenty for me for movies. 2.1 is plenty for me for music. And my D2v handles that quite well for me.


The Anthem pre/pro's are the best I've owned. I am very happy with my D2v. But that doesn't mean that it couldn't be improved upon.
Whether Anthem is interested in my (and other's) suggestions I don't know. I would hope they are open to the wants of their owners. 
If not, I would hope some other company is open to our needs. If so. maybe we will be chatting on that company's pre/pro's AVS thread in a year or two.


Tom


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## Bob Pariseau

^ The new, REC 2020 stuff actually makes it more reasonable to do some video processing external to the display. Things like Color Management System adjustments.

As 4K display makers race down the price curve, there may well be reason still for a quality video processor in front of the display.
--Bob


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## stanger89

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ The new, REC 2020 stuff actually makes it more reasonable to do some video processing external to the display. Things like Color Management System adjustments.
> 
> As 4K display makers race down the price curve, there may well be reason still for a quality video processor in front of the display.
> --Bob


Here's my problem Bob, Anthem changes an enormous premium for the video processing in the 50V/D2V, like $3000 (the AVM 40 was about half the cost of a 50V IIRC). This cost is in the (if not out of the) ballpark of some of the best Video Processors out there. I got my Lumagen Radiance XE for under $3000, and it is a significantly better, more robust, and more flexible video processor than Anthem could ever hope to build. In comparison to the Lumagen, my 50V's VP is clumsy and extremely limited. 

Don't get me wrong, I'm in no way saying that there isn't call for good video processor, but at the price points we're talking for 50V and D2V, especially at the premium Anthem charges for built in video processing, I really expect exceptional performance and Anthem just doesn't deliver that. I (and I'm guessing this is what Kris is getting at too), would much rather save a couple grand on the 50V/D2V and put a Lumagen in the system.

As for Rec2020, or CMS, I don't think Anthem even has one of those, the latest Lumagens have 4913 point (17x17x17 cube) CMS with auto calibration. Unless Anthem decides to partner with Lumagen and integrate a Lumagen VP in their D3/AVM60, I'd much rather they just leave it off and have just A/V switching. Heck I don't even care if they have AV switching, I do all that in my Radiance and just have one HDMI cable (for audio) going to my 50V today.



tngiloy said:


> The Anthem pre/pro's are the best I've owned. I am very happy with my D2v. But that doesn't mean that it couldn't be improved upon.


Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying there's nothing to improve on, there's always things that could be made better. I would like to see a lot of those things in their next model and I hope they incorporate many or all of those ideas into the next generation. But when I see comments from many here about the D2V being "out of date", I guess what that really says to me is, one wants some new feature available elsewhere now. I guess it makes it sound like the poster (I'm not calling anyone out here), is going to jump ship if Anthem doesn't release something in the next 6 months or something. 


The reality for me is my 50V sounds great, has world class room correction, and plays every audio format commonly available today, and just works. I never go into the menus, I hardly ever run ARC (there's no point when my room doesn't change). When I look at my 50V, while it would be great to have USB connections, spiffier menus and simplified ARC, outside of Atmos and DTS:X, none of those things are even remotely significant enough to make me consider replacing my 50V. And heck, even Atmos and DTS:X really aren't either unless they become available in a AVM50V class machine for a similar cost. As it is right now, it seems you're looking at a $20k+ processor to get Anthem class performance with Atmos or DTS:X (ie Datasat LS20i or Trinnov Altitude).


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## Bob Pariseau

^ We are talking about new video processing -- whether to eliminate it or improve it. There are things in current HDMI which simply should not be done in an external processor. CMS is the best example, Lumagen notwithstanding. The current HDMI spec severely limits what Lumagen can output as the "adjusted" video going to the display. So it makes perfect sense to me that the current Anthem video processing does not include CMS. In current HDMI, CMS really REALLY needs to be handled inside the TV. If your TV can't handle it, you need a new TV, not an external processor. It's not like scaling.

However, I believe the new, REC 2020 stuff may change that. My point was, rather than eliminating video processing, this brave new world of new HDMI offers an opportunity for Anthem to include the type of video processing you are describing and have it make sense. And that would be my preference.
--Bob


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## stanger89

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ We are talking about new video processing -- whether to eliminate it or improve it. There are things in current HDMI which simply should not be done in an external processor. CMS is the best example, Lumagen notwithstanding. The current HDMI spec severely limits what Lumagen can output as the "adjusted" video going to the display. So it makes perfect sense to me that the current Anthem video processing does not include CMS. In current HDMI, CMS really REALLY needs to be handled inside the TV. If your TV can't handle it, you need a new TV, not an external processor. It's not like scaling.


No doubt it's best do do CMS in the display, but there are a lot of displays that don't have a CMS, or have a non-functional one. And of course even if you have perfect primaries and secondaries, there's benefit to a many point cube calibration that a Lumagen can do. I'm not aware of any display with even a 125 point cube calibration capability. I know a lot of folks were really happy with a Lumagen CMS calibration on their JVC projectors which had no, or broken internal CMS and (earlier models) way out of spec color.

As long as the display's native gamut exceeds the target gamut, and you can feed the display 10-12 bit color, and external CMS can be better than none at all.



> However, I believe the new, REC 2020 stuff may change that. My point was, rather than eliminating video processing, this brave new world of new HDMI offers an opportunity for Anthem to include the type of video processing you are describing and have it make sense. And that would be my preference.
> --Bob


If Anthem put a Lumagen class video processor in their SSPs, I'd have no complaints. But frankly I was quite disappointed with the VP in my AVM50. I'm sure it's fine for everyone with standard 16:9 displays, but I've got a CIH setup and the aspect ratio controls are just too clunky and limited. And on top of that, Lumagen's video processing is just a step above overall. Given Anthem's lack of interest in improving something as "simple" as the aspect ratio controls, I have little confidence that they have the skills or will to bring Lumagen class video processing to market. Of course the other question is how much would such functionality cost from Anthem, would it be twice the cost of a standalone Lumagen?


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## Nick @ Anthem

stanger89 said:


> Anthem changes an enormous premium for the video processing in the 50V/D2V, like $3000 (the AVM 40 was about half the cost of a 50V IIRC).


$1K difference. AVM 50: $4699, AVM 40: $3699.

Eight years later, the AVM 50v 3D is $6499 but it also has twice the HDMI connections, jitter-reduced inputs, four times the audio DSP, an ARC kit, lossless 8-channel decoding up to 24/192, Dolby Volume.

For anyone seeking video processing bypass, the D2v 3D and AVM 50v 3D make it available for the upper row of HDMI connections, and it's assignable per-input. Keep in mind there's no 2-line OSD overlay in Through mode.



> while it would be great to have USB connections, spiffier menus and simplified ARC, outside of Atmos and DTS:X ... it seems you're looking at a $20k+ processor to get Anthem class performance with Atmos or DTS:X (ie Datasat LS20i or Trinnov Altitude).


Absolutely. The wish list becomes real only with an all-new platform (big development $) and this discussion would indeed move to the $20K+ area. Then there's timing, with platform longevity in mind and as Bob and Kris detailed, the new tech is unsettled.

On the other hand, for anyone after a 7.1-channel prepro that produces archival-quality audio and 1080p video (the deinterlacing is still top notch, and finely tunable per-input overscanning can be very useful), incorporates professional-level room correction, and fits well with hi-end custom integration, the AVM 50v and D2v are options. This is still the majority of our market.

Regarding clunkiness with CIH, I can only guess at the issue - if using a motorized lens, it can always be triggered from the prepro according to input selection, with the vertical scaling for the same input set to 810 high.


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## stanger89

Nick @ Anthem said:


> $1K difference. AVM 50: $4699, AVM 40: $3699.
> 
> Eight years later, the AVM 50v 3D is $6499 but it also has twice the HDMI connections, jitter-reduced inputs, four times the audio DSP, an ARC kit, lossless 8-channel decoding up to 24/192, Dolby Volume.


Thanks for the correction, I was having a hard time tracking down MSRPs, and frankly the 40 wasn't available anymore when I was looking to replace my AVM20 V2. The only thing I remembered for sure what that my 50V was over twice the cost of my AVM20.



> For anyone seeking video processing bypass, the D2v 3D and AVM 50v 3D make it available for the upper row of HDMI connections, and it's assignable per-input. Keep in mind there's no 2-line OSD overlay in Through mode.


Well I have my AVM50V completely bypassed, everything feeds into my Radiance XE, which has one HDMI to my projector and one to my 50V.

I'd much rather not pay Anthem for video processing. Your forte is audio, it's what you do, and you do it very well. But when it comes to video, it just doesn't seem to be your expertise or passion, and unfortunately it shows. I'd much rather save $1k on my SSP and add a Lumagen Radiance, or in my case, I wish I just could have saved the money since I ended up with both anyway.



> Regarding clunkiness with CIH, I can only guess at the issue - if using a motorized lens, it can always be triggered from the prepro according to input selection, with the vertical scaling for the same input set to 810 high.


FWIW, the first issue for me is I don't have a transport for my lens, so I need horizontal squeeze. I asked a few times and ended up getting told "Don't do that". Well sure, ideally not, but I don't enough 16:9 content that's "important" enough to worry about the loss of resolution. My lens does have a passthrough mode, but unfortunately it's not automateable (for a number of reasons including no trigger input) On top of that, a good automated transport costs more than a Lumagen. The other "clunky" part of it is the only way (and forgive me if this has changed, I've just been using my Lumagen for a while) to define different ARs settings to different virtual inputs, with different input, crop input, and scale output settings.

Contrast this with a Lumagen, where you just tell it the aspect ratio of your screen, and then you can just toggle through the AR modes for any input, 4:3, Letterbox, 16:9, 1.85:1, 2.35:1. So for my case I set my Radiance to 2.39:1 for the shape of my screen, and when I select 16:9 I get a correct geometry 16:9 image (this was impossible last time I checked with Anthem), 1.85:1 properly crops and zooms flat (1.85:1) movies with their small bars, 2.35:1 crops/zooms for scope. I think the 1.85:1 case is also not possible with Anthem's video processor because it requires pillarboxing, same is true of 2.00:1 and 2.20:1 modes, or anything between 16:9 and 2.35:1 for those with lens transports, or anything less than 2.35:1 for those without transports.

And while the deinterlacing should be essentially identical between a Radiance and an Anthem, since they use the same, or similar Gennum VXP video processor (funny, I have three Gennum VXPs in my HT, my AVM50V, Radiance XE and Planar 8150), the "No Ring Scaling" on the Radiance is noticeably superior the scaling on my AVM50V. And of course there's the 125 point CMS on my Radiance XE, which while I haven't had to use yet (my Planar has excellent calibration), it's nice to know it's there if I were to move to a JVC or other projector that's less well behaved and without sufficient built in calibration capabilities. 

And finally Lumagen's will process 3D which while I haven't used yet, is important for anyone with a CIH setup that's interested in 3D, since many/most projectors don't offer vertical stretch for 3D.

And while I'm sure you do, I just want to say, please take my comments as constructive criticism. I was sold on Anthem with my AVM20. Logically for my use and my "care" to listen for details I should have just got an AVR, but I just couldn't "downgrade". I ended up with an AVM50V (with 3D upgrade) because I was so happy with my AVM20. Really the only complaint I have with it is that I was forced to pay nearly the cost of a Lumagen (a Radiance Mini was $1500, or even less if you shopped around) for inferior (to said Lumagen) video processing that I can't even use. I wish nothing but success for Anthem, and I hope you have a D3/AVM60 in the works with some form of Object Audio support should that become important (I'm not convinced it's a fad like 3D, but it's still early to tell), but like my extremely long winded post says, I'd love there to be a "AVM40" type option available, all the audio goodies, but without the extra expense of video processing. That is unless you partner with Lumagen and build that in. That would be a pretty killer combo Anthem audio+Lumagen video processing in one box.


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## Nick @ Anthem

_^ I'd love there to be a "AVM40" type option available_

Maybe it's because external processor adoption is more the exception than the rule that unit sales of the 40 were way below those of its counterparts, so it came and went.

Some things the 50/50v/D2/D2v processing remains useful for:

- 1080i hockey looks a lot better than with satellite box straight to flat panel or with no-processing unit between them

- deinterlacing favorite movies that are still only available on DVD

- custom setting to resize underscanned Criterion DVDs

- custom setting to resize underscanned movies on TCM-HD

- custom setting to fix misaligned TV images

- custom setting for anamorphic vertical stretch (moving lens)

- constant output resolution to reduce number of EDID handshakes

- on-screen status overlay

There's also adjustable per-input noise reduction in the v models and gamma correction in all but we always advised that the latter be carried out in the display.

After custom inputs are set up it's a matter of selecting another input to change between video processing presets.

One area where better deinterlacing ought to have been used: Bonus materials on Blu-ray that were converted from an interlaced source to 1080p before going on disc. Many studios do this and even Criterion Blu-ray has supplements with feathered edges.

What all this means is that quality deinterlacing still hasn't become universal, be it for SD or 1080i, and this is where where VXP level deinterlacing comes in.


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## stanger89

Oh, I agree with all your points Nick, I just wish there was an option for those of us who want/need/have a better video processor that what Anthem provides, to get Anthem audio performance without wasting money on video processing we're just going to completely bypass.


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## dreamhomecinema

plaease give advise mr Bob pariceue to me , my room size is 27x16x10 all corner have 4" thick 2feet wide floor to top bass traps iam using paradigm sub 2 and paradigm sub 25 both subwoofers. And my speakers are ATC 110 active speaker and ANTHEM D2V3D processor . my center front seat 4db and center back seat have 8db 50 hz dip i think this is syanding wavesin my seating area i all ready move sub woofers so many places but 50 hz dip is present please give advice how to solve this problem and another i raise 6 inches stage for front row seates and 12 inches stage for back seates it can cause the standing waves elemnating in ceating area?


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## JDCaduceus

I have 3 Anthem M1s coming in shortly and want to use 12v Triggers from my D2v3d to the M1s - couple of questions:

1. What kind of 12v Triggers should I get for the 3 M1s? Can someone recommend a brand? Link? Mono or stereo?

2. How do I run the 12v triggers? Do I run 1 12v out from the Processor to the "in" on one of the M1s and then from the M1 "out" to the next M1 "in" and so on? 

3. Do I even need 12v triggers if I set the M1s to "auto" and run XLR from Processor to M1s?

4. Lastly, anyone have any experience with how the M1s sound after installing them on your system? I plan to use the M1s on my Font LR and Center channel (B&W 803D) (HTM2) - Currently these speakers are on a 5 way 250w Rotel. I am told that the M1s will make them reach their full potential - I just wanted to hear from others who have switched to M1s and if they were happy with the outcome

thanks again for any help
Conrad


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## tngiloy

JDCaduceus said:


> I have 3 Anthem M1s coming in shortly and want to use 12v Triggers from my D2v3d to the M1s - couple of questions:
> 
> 1. What kind of 12v Triggers should I get for the 3 M1s? Can someone recommend a brand? Link? Mono or stereo?
> 
> 2. How do I run the 12v triggers? Do I run 1 12v out from the Processor to the "in" on one of the M1s and then from the M1 "out" to the next M1 "in" and so on?
> 
> 3. Do I even need 12v triggers if I set the M1s to "auto" and run XLR from Processor to M1s?
> 
> 4. Lastly, anyone have any experience with how the M1s sound after installing them on your system? I plan to use the M1s on my Font LR and Center channel (B&W 803D) (HTM2) - Currently these speakers are on a 5 way 250w Rotel. I am told that the M1s will make them reach their full potential - I just wanted to hear from others who have switched to M1s and if they were happy with the outcome
> 
> thanks again for any help
> Conrad


 
1-The trigger is merely a 3.5 mm mono mini cable (although stereo cable will also work). These can be found at RadioShack MonoPrice for a few bucks each.


2-If you use all your speakers for all your listening, then daisy-chaining the amps will work fine. If you listen to music in stereo then you may want to setup the LF/RF amps to #1 trigger from the processor, and the other amps to be turned on by trigger #2 . The triggers can be customized in setup section 3.11. See your manual.


3-Probably not, but the triggers offer a more sure way to power on your amps. Using the triggers the amps won't power on until the processor is fully powered up.


4- I use A5 amp, so no comment.


Tom


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## Milwaukeesk

I'm hoping to get a little guidance getting a Darbee to work with my JVC projector and D2.

For whatever reason when I add the Darbee into the HDMI out chain to the projector, it won't pass a picture. Seems like this should be pretty simple to make work. Guessing it's some sort of a handshake issue or something. (For that matter, it doesn't matter where I put the Darbee in the chain.)

I have a JVC RS50 (X7). 

Not sure if their are strict Color Space or HDMI settings or something to make this work. The only other thing I can think is that I have about a 30 foot HDMI running to the projector. 

Any tips or guidance would be appreciated.


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## Bob Pariseau

dreamhomecinema said:


> plaease give advise mr Bob pariceue to me , my room size is 27x16x10 all corner have 4" thick 2feet wide floor to top bass traps iam using paradigm sub 2 and paradigm sub 25 both subwoofers. And my speakers are ATC 110 active speaker and ANTHEM D2V3D processor . my center front seat 4db and center back seat have 8db 50 hz dip i think this is syanding wavesin my seating area i all ready move sub woofers so many places but 50 hz dip is present please give advice how to solve this problem and another i raise 6 inches stage for front row seates and 12 inches stage for back seates it can cause the standing waves elemnating in ceating area?


I don't have any easy answers for you. A hole at 50Hz can sometimes be caused by a closet sized space that's open to the listening room -- such as an equipment closet.

You could of course try additional bass traps at the first reflection points on the walls (in addition to what you have in the corners).

If I were faced with your problem, I'd use the Quick Measure tool in ARC with only one Sub powered at a time, to find the best position for each Sub to minimize the 50Hz hole for just that Sub. Then test again with Quick Measure and both Subs powered at the positions you found. If the hole returns, then adjust the relative Phase between the two Subs (e.g., Phase control on each Sub) as that indicates there is cancellation happening between them.
--Bob


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## Milwaukeesk

Milwaukeesk said:


> I'm hoping to get a little guidance getting a Darbee to work with my JVC projector and D2.


I'm getting the feeling after some more digging on this forum that it's probably my long HDMI cable run to the projector...


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## airboyd

Those of us with D2's are stuck in a harder upgrade cycle. I'd happily pay for a D2 - D2v upgrade for just the 7.1 and nothing else...


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## Bob Pariseau

^ So much was changed, there's not really an "upgrade" possible. Instead it is a trade-in situation. I.e., sell your D2 and buy a D2v.
--Bob


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## MitchPope

I switched my sub connection to XLR. Can I just dial down my sub amp (PC13 Ultra) by 6 dB to compensate or should I re-run ARC?


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## studlygoorite

JDCaduceus said:


> I have 3 Anthem M1s coming in shortly and want to use 12v Triggers from my D2v3d to the M1s - couple of questions:
> 
> 1. What kind of 12v Triggers should I get for the 3 M1s? Can someone recommend a brand? Link? Mono or stereo?
> 
> 2. How do I run the 12v triggers? Do I run 1 12v out from the Processor to the "in" on one of the M1s and then from the M1 "out" to the next M1 "in" and so on?
> 
> 3. Do I even need 12v triggers if I set the M1s to "auto" and run XLR from Processor to M1s?
> 
> 4. *Lastly, anyone have any experience with how the M1s sound after installing them on your system? I plan to use the M1s on my Font LR and Center channel (B&W 803D) (HTM2) - Currently these speakers are on a 5 way 250w Rotel. I am told that the M1s will make them reach their full potential - I just wanted to hear from others who have switched to M1s and if they were happy with the outcome
> *
> thanks again for any help
> Conrad


I had two MCA50s bi amped across the fronts (S8s and C5) and switched to two M1s for the LR mostly for Stereo music and left the MCAs bi amped on the C5. It's been a while but I remember a wider soundstage and maybe a bit more top end (more sound pressure with very loud music) and was pleased overall or I would have returned them.


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## thestewman

JDCaduceus said:


> I have 3 Anthem M1s coming in shortly and want to use 12v Triggers from my D2v3d to the M1s - couple of questions:
> 
> 1. What kind of 12v Triggers should I get for the 3 M1s? Can someone recommend a brand? Link? Mono or stereo?
> 
> 2. How do I run the 12v triggers? Do I run 1 12v out from the Processor to the "in" on one of the M1s and then from the M1 "out" to the next M1 "in" and so on?
> 
> 3. Do I even need 12v triggers if I set the M1s to "auto" and run XLR from Processor to M1s?
> 
> 4. Lastly, anyone have any experience with how the M1s sound after installing them on your system? I plan to use the M1s on my Font LR and Center channel (B&W 803D) (HTM2) - Currently these speakers are on a 5 way 250w Rotel. I am told that the M1s will make them reach their full potential - I just wanted to hear from others who have switched to M1s and if they were happy with the outcome
> 
> thanks again for any help
> Conrad




Stereophile magazine
Anthem Statement M1 monoblock power amplifier
By Kalman Rubinson • Posted: Dec 7, 2012


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## JDCaduceus

Well Crap Stew that was not a good review of the M1s Someone must have some positive things to say about their M1s. I can't believe I am the only Anthem guy who is looking to but them!.

thanks
C


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## Bob Pariseau

MitchPope said:


> I switched my sub connection to XLR. Can I just dial down my sub amp (PC13 Ultra) by 6 dB to compensate or should I re-run ARC?


Yes you should be able to adjust it that way without having to re-run ARC, presuming the Sub isn't handling XLR input differently for some silly reason.

Note that the Sub may already have 6dB compensation in effect on that input, so do check with an SPL meter and the calibration test tones to make sure you really need to do the adjustment.
--Bob


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## thestewman

JDCaduceus said:


> Well Crap Stew that was not a good review of the M1s Someone must have some positive things to say about their M1s. I can't believe I am the only Anthem guy who is looking to but them!.
> 
> thanks
> C


I was not commenting personally. In fact when Anthem announced the M1 I was anxious to buy them until I read the review. And other reviews were similiar
Kalman Robinson is a member of this forum and his opinions are highly respected


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## Nick @ Anthem

JDCaduceus said:


> Well Crap Stew that was not a good review


...unlike these:

*Hi Fi News *(includes measurements):

www.anthemavs.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Anthem-M1_HFN_PM-1.pdf

*Ultra Audio *(includes measurements):

www.ultraaudio.com/index.php/equipment-menu/323-the-overwhelming-march-of-technology-anthem-statement-m1-mono-amplifiers

*Hi Fi Plus:*

www.hifiplus.com/articles/anthem-statement-m1/

...and then there are automatic prejudices stemming from:

1. digiphobes who incorrectly believe that class D amps are "digital"

2. people not into small form factor and low weight despite high efficiency

3. a common deficiency that does *not* apply to the 100%-in-house-designed M1 which is perfectly flat down to 1 ohm:

www.avsforum.com/forum/173-2-channel-audio/1436318-class-d-integrated-amplifier-shootout-2012-a.html

4. other inapplicable generalizations, for example as seen in post 3:

www.avsforum.com/forum/92-community-news-polls/1644153-class-d-amps-ready-prime-time.html

Lastly, the only time that anyone identified a difference between the M1 and conventional amplification in our blind listening tests was when the class AB amps ran out of power and started clipping audibly.


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## airboyd

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ So much was changed, there's not really an "upgrade" possible. Instead it is a trade-in situation. I.e., sell your D2 and buy a D2v.
> --Bob


I did my D1 to D2 upgrade in July 2008 for around $2500 including the ARC plus shipping and didn't receive notice of the D2 to D2v upgrade path that was offered in 2009 that is in the stickies ad in some of the review mags.



> The original Statement D2, AVM 50, and quite possibly the AVM 40, may be discontinued soon if that hasn't already happened. Upgrades to the D2v or AVM 50v for owners of the original units should be available soon (my guess would be February for the D2 -> D2v upgrade). Upgrade pricing is not confirmed yet. Either upgrade will require shipping the unit to the Anthem factory in Canada.
> 
> The D2/AVM50 will both be upgradable (hardware upgrade) to do the D2v, so they will be HDMI 1.3c, 7.1, and will support decoding of DD TrueHD, DTS HD and DTS-HD Master


I love the D2 but they aren't selling for what they are worth right now unlike a lot of my other gear. They simply aren't selling for much on Audigon and elsewhere and the trade-in offers have been just as bad. I don't want to get stuck in between upgrades again and it's been a while.

It's unfortunate that I upgraded in 2008 and there was a major update right after that. The Paradigm guys at 2010 CES were very sympathetic that my unit was on a bench in Canada and no one thought to mention the "next" upgrade was imminent and I missed out on that upgrade window. The only thing I don't have that I'd like is proper Blu-ray/7.1 support which is a little hard to justify for $9K. I'll probably just spend money on an Oppo 105 and try running the decoded signal out to the D2 and hope I get it all set up right and deal with it until the next Statement comes out or give up and get an AVM and live with the slight downgrade.

It's a tough spot to be in money-wise. My D2 has nothing wrong with it, it just lacks the full Blu-ray support I'd like.


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## drhankz

airboyd said:


> It's a tough spot to be in money-wise. My D2 has nothing wrong with it, it just lack the Blu-ray support I'd like.


My D2 works fine with my Blu-Ray and 3D as well.


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## Bob Pariseau

airboyd said:


> I did my D1 to D2 upgrade in July 2008 for around $2500 including the ARC plus shipping and didn't receive notice of the D2 to D2v upgrade path that was offered in 2009 that is in the stickies ad in some of the review mags.
> 
> 
> 
> I love the D2 but they aren't selling for what they are worth right now unlike a lot of my other gear. They simply aren't selling for much on Audigon and elsewhere and the trade-in offers have been just as bad. I don't want to get stuck in between upgrades again and it's been a while.
> 
> It's unfortunate that I upgraded in 2008 and there was a major update right after that. The Paradigm guys at 2010 CES were very sympathetic that my unit was on a bench in Canada and no one thought to mention the "next" upgrade was imminent and I missed out on that upgrade window. The only thing I don't have that I'd like is proper Blu-ray/7.1 support which is a little hard to justify for $9K. I'll probably just spend money on an Oppo 105 and try running the decoded signal out to the D2 and hope I get it all set up right and deal with it until the next Statement comes out or give up and get an AVM and live with the slight downgrade.
> 
> It's a tough spot to be in money-wise. My D2 has nothing wrong with it, it just lacks the full Blu-ray support I'd like.


There was never an "upgrade" from the D2 to the D2v. For a short while after the D2v came out Anthem was offering a factory subsidized trade-in. I.e., what you got back was a new D2v, not your D2 modified into a D2v. Later, there was an "upgrade" from the D2v to the D2v/3D.

Unless you have a 7.1 speaker system, there's nothing lost by letting the player do the decode for movie tracks -- including the down-mix to 5.1 -- for HDMI LPCM to the D2. Even if you do have a 7.1 speaker system, back when the D2v came out there were folks posting here with comparisons between 7.1 straight to the D2v vs. 7.1 down-mixed to 5.1 (as for the multi-channel Analog inputs) and processed back up to 7.1 speaker output via PLIIx in the D2v, and as I recall folks felt that PLIIx was doing a surprisingly good job. Now that's with the 7.1 tracks of the day (which were likely not as aggressive in the Surrounds as more recent tracks).

There are of course other things the D2v (and D2v/3D) offers besides 7.1 support, so you'd have to consider those as well.
--Bob


----------



## airboyd

I've been using a PS3 and it's time to upgrade. I added 2 speakers for a 7.1 system late last year in anticipation of upgrading soonish. 

I guess I'll try an Oppo 105 and do the down mix out and then process it back up in the D2 if I can find a post somewhere in this thread on how to configure it properly, unless someone has a link or cut an paste handy.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

airboyd said:


> I've been using a PS3 and it's time to upgrade. I added 2 speakers for a 7.1 system late last year in anticipation of upgrading soonish.
> 
> I guess I'll try an Oppo 105 and do the down mix out and then process it back up in the D2 if I can find a post somewhere in this thread on how to configure it properly, unless someone has a link or cut an paste handy.


If you are going to use HDMI Audio into the D2, then save yourself some money and get a 103 (or better yet a 103D). The 105 (and 105D) differ in having a more exotic Analog audio output solution, but that's not used at all when you are hooked up using HDMI Audio.

When hooked up using HDMI, the down mix to 5.1 happens automatically as part of the HDMI handshake. Nothing special you need to do. 7.1 tracks will be sent as HDMI LPCM 5.1 to the D2.

On the D2 side, set the Surround Mode you like in Setup > Mode Presets for that Source line -- there's a Preset choice you can make for each type of audio input. Most folks use PLIIx if they want to expand 2.0 or 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output for movies or music. If you are using ARC, I recommend you do NOT add the optional THX post processing. If you are not sure which Surround Mode you prefer (and this is all a matter of personal preference) you can press the Mode button and use the arrow keys to cycle through the available choices according to the audio format currently coming in to the D2. What's in Setup > Mode Presets is just the default, so you can change Modes on the fly. If you decide you like some other Mode better for a given style of audio input, just change that to the default in Setup > Mode Presets for that Source line and for that style of audio input.
--Bob


----------



## airboyd

Bob Pariseau said:


> If you are going to use HDMI Audio into the D2, then save yourself some money and get a 103 (or better yet a 103D). The 105 (and 105D) differ in having a more exotic Analog audio output solution, but that's not used at all when you are hooked up using HDMI Audio.
> 
> When hooked up using HDMI, the down mix to 5.1 happens automatically as part of the HDMI handshake. Nothing special you need to do. 7.1 tracks will be sent as HDMI LPCM 5.1 to the D2.
> 
> On the D2 side, set the Surround Mode you like in Setup > Mode Presets for that Source line -- there's a Preset choice you can make for each type of audio input. Most folks use PLIIx if they want to expand 2.0 or 5.1 input to 7.1 speaker output for movies or music. If you are using ARC, I recommend you do NOT add the optional THX post processing. If you are not sure which Surround Mode you prefer (and this is all a matter of personal preference) you can press the Mode button and use the arrow keys to cycle through the available choices according to the audio format currently coming in to the D2. What's in Setup > Mode Presets is just the default, so you can change Modes on the fly. If you decide you like some other Mode better for a given style of audio input, just change that to the default in Setup > Mode Presets for that Source line and for that style of audio input.
> --Bob


Great advice. I will look at the 103. I have quite a few SACD's and was looking at the analog outs as being a requirement.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nope. The 103 will play SACD discs as HDMI LPCM 5.1 (or 2.0 according to the track you select) 88.2KHz 20-bit into the D2.

Personally, I think the 103D (for $100 more) is the better player. There are a handful other changes in it in addition to the selectable Darbee video processing.

The 105 and 105D should be in your thinking if you feel you'll want to switch to, or experiment with, Analog audio at some point. But if you know you'd prefer to stick with HDMI audio, then the 103 or 103D are definitely the way to go. By the way, they offer multi-channel Analog as well, and it is no slouch. It's just not as refined as what's in the 105/105D.
--Bob


----------



## drhankz

airboyd said:


> Great advice. I will look at the 103. I have quite a few SACD's and was looking at the analog outs as being a requirement.


MY SECRET to NEW HIGH-DEF audio is to use a 
Blu-Ray player with DUAL HDMI outputs. I run
the High-Def and 3D Video to my projector and
I run HDMI Audio for the 2nd Audio Only Port 
on my Blu-Ray player to my D2.

The player decodes all High-Def standards to LPCM. 
My Player even handles ATMOS. I only own one 
Blu-Ray movie with an ATMOS track. 

It is *EXPENDABLES 3 *

I have no plans to Upgrade my D2


----------



## airboyd

Bob Pariseau said:


> Nope. The 103 will play SACD discs as HDMI LPCM 5.1 (or 2.0 according to the track you select) 88.2KHz 20-bit into the D2.
> 
> Personally, I think the 103D (for $100 more) is the better player. There are a handful other changes in it in addition to the selectable Darbee video processing.
> 
> The 105 and 105D should be in your thinking if you feel you'll want to switch to, or experiment with, Analog audio at some point. But if you know you'd prefer to stick with HDMI audio, then the 103 or 103D are definitely the way to go. By the way, they offer multi-channel Analog as well, and it is no slouch. It's just not as refined as what's in the 105/105D.
> --Bob


That is a quandary. The balanced XLR out looks like it would match up nicely with the D2 and I have a handful of stereo only SACD's. Thanks for input everyone.


----------



## dmusoke

Quote:
Originally Posted by *JDCaduceus*  
_Well Crap Stew that was not a good review_




Nick @ Anthem said:


> ...unlike these:
> 
> *Hi Fi News *(includes measurements):
> 
> www.anthemavs.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Anthem-M1_HFN_PM-1.pdf
> 
> *Ultra Audio *(includes measurements):
> 
> www.ultraaudio.com/index.php/equipment-menu/323-the-overwhelming-march-of-technology-anthem-statement-m1-mono-amplifiers
> 
> *Hi Fi Plus:*
> 
> www.hifiplus.com/articles/anthem-statement-m1/
> .
> .
> .
> 
> 
> Lastly, the only time that anyone identified a difference between the M1 and conventional amplification in our blind listening tests was when the class AB amps ran out of power and started clipping audibly.


 

Nick:


How do you explain the excessive switching noise seen on the amps output when Stereophile tested with a 10kHz square wave? How would you explain their statement below? Did they get two bad samples for review?


"Without the AP filter, the Anthem's wideband, unweighted signal/noise ratio, ref. 2.83V into 8 ohms with the input shorted, was miserable: 10.4dB, due to the ultrasonic noise"


Since our amps don't have AP filters to limits their bandwidths to 20kHz only, this switching noise(@400kHz) could damage tweeters and/or be picked up by speaker cables turning them into an antennas. A concern shared by the magazines reviewers...


----------



## tngiloy

I added a single rear speaker to my system making it 6.1 a while back.
I have some questions about what happens when DTS NEO-6 or DD-EX are applied to a 5.1 DTS-MA or DD-HD soundtrack.


1- The main question- is there any processing done to the center or fronts, or do NEO-6 and DD-EX just copy the surrounds to the rear speaker, leaving the other speakers alone ?


2- Does it make any difference whether I use DTS NEO-6 with a DD-HD track, or DD-EX with DTS-MA or should I use DTS with DTS and Dolby with Dolby? 


3-Is there a difference in how DTS and Dolby handle the surrounds/rears ? I seem to remember one recommends the surrounds be almost directly to the right and left of the main listening area, and one placed them slightly to the rear of the main listening area, but I can't seem to remember which is which. My surrounds are placed a few feet behind the mlp and the rear is a few feet behind the surrounds, centered on the rear wall. Would DTS or Dolby be better ?


Thanks,
Tom


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

dmusoke said:


> How do you explain the excessive switching noise seen on the amps output when Stereophile tested with a 10kHz square wave? How would you explain their statement below? Did they get two bad samples for review?
> 
> "Without the AP filter, the Anthem's wideband, unweighted signal/noise ratio, ref. 2.83V into 8 ohms with the input shorted, was miserable: 10.4dB, due to the ultrasonic noise"
> 
> Since our amps don't have AP filters to limits their bandwidths to 20kHz only, this switching noise(@400kHz) could damage tweeters and/or be picked up by speaker cables turning them into an antennas. A concern shared by the magazines reviewers...


It only looks excessive because an 8-ohm resistive load is one thing and a real-world speaker load is another.

At 400,000 Hz, tweeter impedance is so high that the switching noise has a hard if not practically impossible time getting in. Taking the report at face value regardless, 2.83V reference into 8 ohms amounts to 1 watt and noise was 10.4 dB lower than this, which means its power into stated load was under a tenth of a watt. It's hard to imagine a tweeter that gets blown by a tenth of a watt let alone one that's a mere 8 ohms at 400,000 Hz.

As for the speculation over potential emissions via speaker cable, FCC certification which the M1 has suggests otherwise. For safety certification, the Statement M1 amp is classified as a commercial product due to the amount of power it's capable of putting out yet for FCC certificaton we went for its more stringent domestic spec even though we didn't have to.

Note that in your last paragraph you're paraphrasing inaccurately because nobody said the ultrasonic noise could damage tweeters - the statement in the review was about _wondering_ whether it could happen and for that matter, I've never heard of tweeters being blown by M1s, which have been on the market for three years and counting. I'd be a lot more worried about clipping distortion from underpowered amps leading to blown tweeters.


----------



## dmusoke

Nick:

That makes sense now. Thanks for taking the time to explain it to me.


David


PS


I had a tech support ticket for a week now and no response from Anthem. How long should I wait?


----------



## AVfile

tngiloy said:


> I added a single rear speaker to my system making it 6.1 a while back.
> I have some questions about what happens when DTS NEO-6 or DD-EX are applied to a 5.1 DTS-MA or DD-HD soundtrack.
> 
> 
> 1- The main question- is there any processing done to the center or fronts, or do NEO-6 and DD-EX just copy the surrounds to the rear speaker, leaving the other speakers alone ?
> 
> 
> 2- Does it make any difference whether I use DTS NEO-6 with a DD-HD track, or DD-EX with DTS-MA or should I use DTS with DTS and Dolby with Dolby?
> 
> 
> 3-Is there a difference in how DTS and Dolby handle the surrounds/rears ? I seem to remember one recommends the surrounds be almost directly to the right and left of the main listening area, and one placed them slightly to the rear of the main listening area, but I can't seem to remember which is which. My surrounds are placed a few feet behind the mlp and the rear is a few feet behind the surrounds, centered on the rear wall. Would DTS or Dolby be better ?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom



1) I'm not sure about Neo:6 but the EX and ES Matrix modes just apply a Dolby Pro Logic style dematrixing to produce the centre (rear) channel. They work whether the source is encoded with a matrixed centre rear channel or not. 

2) It is also irrelevant if it is a Dolby or DTS format, lossy or HD. Use whichever mode you like best. There are also THX modes that you might prefer such as THX Surround EX. PLIIx and THX Ultra 2 Cinema may require 7.1 setup, not sure if they will work with 6.1. 

3) You must be thinking of the 7.1 vs 5.1 speaker layouts. The latter has the surround speakers slightly back at 110 degrees. Diagrams are on the Dolby and DTS sites. I think you are alright. 

There is also a setup called a THX advanced speaker array (ASA) which makes use of the distance between the two rear speakers (they can be as close as 0 feet to each other!) to optimize the THX Ultra modes. I used these modes because I built my 7.1 setup when I had a Lexicon Logic 7 processor before the days of HD Blu-Ray audio. Nowadays I exclusively use PLIIx.


----------



## tngiloy

AVfile said:


> 1) I'm not sure about Neo:6 but the EX and ES Matrix modes just apply a Dolby Pro Logic style dematrixing to produce the centre (rear) channel. They work whether the source is encoded with a matrixed centre rear channel or not.
> 
> 2) It is also irrelevant if it is a Dolby or DTS format, lossy or HD. Use whichever mode you like best. There are also THX modes that you might prefer such as THX Surround EX. PLIIx and THX Ultra 2 Cinema may require 7.1 setup, not sure if they will work with 6.1.
> 
> 3) You must be thinking of the 7.1 vs 5.1 speaker layouts. The latter has the surround speakers slightly back at 110 degrees. Diagrams are on the Dolby and DTS sites. I think you are alright.
> 
> There is also a setup called a THX advanced speaker array (ASA) which makes use of the distance between the two rear speakers (they can be as close as 0 feet to each other!) to optimize the THX Ultra modes. I used these modes because I built my 7.1 setup when I had a Lexicon Logic 7 processor before the days of HD Blu-Ray audio. Nowadays I exclusively use PLIIx.



AVStefan, 
Thanks for the answer. The thing I was most worried about was that using Dolby or DTS might be downgrading a HD audio signal. From what you say, if I understand correctly, there is only a steering of the surrounds to the rear channel(s). BTW you are right about PLIIx-- it is not used with a 6.1 setup. PLIIx is actually offered in 'mode' setup, but when chosen my D2v will actually use DD-EX instead, so I ended up just choosing DD-EX or NEO-6.
I am not sure if THX would add anything since my speakers are well matched and I use ARC, but I will give it a listen.
I did look at the DD and DTS sites and my surrounds are well within the 110*. It appears to be the same 90*-110* angle for both 5.1 and 7.1 on both sites.


There is something else I was wondering about though. I have read here that others, when choosing 'none' for 5.1DTS-MA were getting sound sent to their rear channels. If I play a DTS-MA 5.1 with 'none' selected I get no (or negligible) sound out of my rear speaker. This has happened with v3.09, v3.09h&j. Does this shunting to the rears only happen with 7.1 systems?? If I could get the same sound from my rear speaker by choosing 'none' I would rather do that, but DD-EX and DTS-NEO-6 work fine. Choosing 'none' for 7.1 works fine, as it should.


Thanks again for your help,
Tom


----------



## AVfile

tngiloy said:


> There is something else I was wondering about though. I have read here that others, when choosing 'none' for 5.1DTS-MA were getting sound sent to their rear channels. If I play a DTS-MA 5.1 with 'none' selected I get no (or negligible) sound out of my rear speaker. This has happened with v3.09, v3.09h&j. Does this shunting to the rears only happen with 7.1 systems?? If I could get the same sound from my rear speaker by choosing 'none' I would rather do that, but DD-EX and DTS-NEO-6 work fine.



That is something only DTS does. I forget which version it was put in by Anthem but it might be after 3.09j and 3.10 definitely has it. Anyway you wouldn't want the "same" sound in the rear speaker(s) when you can have Dolby EX, NEO-6 or THX work their magic.

By the way some BD players can be set to use NEO-6 when decoding a soundtrack to expand it to the maximum number of channels (when set to output LPCM instead of bitstream). So I think it is more versatile than simple EX/ES processing, and probably the best choice for your 6.1 setup. 

I would still check out the THX modes though. I like what they do for older (eg: mid-90's sci-fi) soundtracks that tend to be a bit loud and screechy. There is also the warm and fuzzy you get when playing something "mastered in THX"


----------



## dmusoke

Hi all:
I currently have a 5.1 setup for ARC but I want to disable the center channel.



1. Do I have to re-ARC for a 4.1 configuration?


2. If not, does all the center channel info get routed to the L/R mains or id it simply dropped.



Thanks,
David


----------



## tngiloy

dmusoke said:


> Hi all:
> I currently have a 5.1 setup for ARC but I want to disable the center channel.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Do I have to re-ARC for a 4.1 configuration?
> 
> 
> 2. If not, does all the center channel info get routed to the L/R mains or id it simply dropped.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> David



Yes, you will need to re-run ARC with your new 4.1 speaker setup. With no 'center' chosen in ARC, it will send the center channel info to the fronts and create a phantom center channel. If you don't do that it will assume you still have a center channel speaker hooked up and send the info to nowhere. It would be the same as if you were to unhook the center speaker cables or remove the center out cable between the pre-pro and your amp. You can try that if you want to see how it sounds. Since most of the dialog is in the center channel it won't sound good. Some people are more than happy with a 4.1 setup for movies. When set up correctly it should work fine. Personally, I like a dedicated center.


Just to be nosey, why are you removing your center?? 


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dmusoke said:


> Hi all:
> I currently have a 5.1 setup for ARC but I want to disable the center channel.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Do I have to re-ARC for a 4.1 configuration?
> 
> 
> 2. If not, does all the center channel info get routed to the L/R mains or id it simply dropped.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> David


You have to re-Calculate and re-Upload. You don't have to re-Measure.

In the ARC Targets window, enter "n" (for "no speaker") in the Cutoff field for Center. Accept those Targets changes, re-Calculate. You'll notice that the Center channel chart no longer appears. re-Upload.

Center content will be sent equally to LF/RF (and Sub based on the Crossover for LF/RF).
--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

tngiloy said:


> Yes, you will need to re-run ARC with your new 4.1 speaker setup. With no 'center' chosen in ARC, it will send the center channel info to the fronts and create a phantom center channel. If you don't do that it will assume you still have a center channel speaker hooked up and send the info to nowhere. It would be the same as if you were to unhook the center speaker cables or remove the center out cable between the pre-pro and your amp. You can try that if you want to see how it sounds. Since most of the dialog is in the center channel it won't sound good. Some people are more than happy with a 4.1 setup for movies. When set up correctly it should work fine. Personally, I like a dedicated center.
> 
> 
> Just to be nosey, why are you removing your center??
> 
> 
> Tom


Tom:


Thanks for the response. I'm 'removing' the center channel because it seems so predominant when watching TV material. despite the fact that both my main and center speakers are from the same manufacturer. I use Martin-Logan electrostatics (Spires) and Center (Stage) and wanted to see how the sound would change if center channel is removed from the equation.


----------



## dmusoke

Bob Pariseau said:


> You have to re-Calculate and re-Upload. You don't have to re-Measure.
> 
> In the ARC Targets window, enter "n" (for "no speaker") in the Cutoff field for Center. Accept those Targets changes, re-Calculate. You'll notice that the Center channel chart no longer appears. re-Upload.
> 
> Center content will be sent equally to LF/RF (and Sub based on the Crossover for LF/RF).
> --Bob


I suspected something like what you suggested but didn't know if it could work. Thanks Bob.


----------



## solly46

*D2V 5.1 Problem*

When TV source is selected, I am unable to change modes, only able to use Dolby D. Is there something I need to change?


----------



## thestewman

solly46 said:


> When TV source is selected, I am unable to change modes, only able to use Dolby D. Is there something I need to change?


When tv stations transmit audio it is low rez and Dolby Digital and there are no alternative modes available other than stereo or 5.1 surround
The manual states it has to be a PCM signal greater than 96khz, which tv signals are not, to enable signal processing


----------



## tngiloy

Bob Pariseau said:


> You have to re-Calculate and re-Upload. You don't have to re-Measure.
> 
> In the ARC Targets window, enter "n" (for "no speaker") in the Cutoff field for Center. Accept those Targets changes, re-Calculate. You'll notice that the Center channel chart no longer appears. re-Upload.
> 
> Center content will be sent equally to LF/RF (and Sub based on the Crossover for LF/RF).
> --Bob





dmusoke said:


> Tom:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. I'm 'removing' the center channel because it seems so predominant when watching TV material. despite the fact that both my main and center speakers are from the same manufacturer. I use Martin-Logan electrostatics (Spires) and Center (Stage) and wanted to see how the sound would change if center channel is removed from the equation.


David,
Bob's response is of course a much easier way to test a 4.1 setup. I wish I had thought of it. I assumed from your post that you were actually planning to physically remove the center speaker from your system.


I assume you have tried just lowering the center speaker dB level in the Anthem for the TV source you have setup. As you know, the adjustment will only apply to that source and will stay until you change it or reset the unit to factory defaults. 


I would also check your TV source (are you sending the signal to your D2 from the TV or sat/cable box?) to see if there is any internal settings that may be affecting your sound. Are you sending out 2.0 pcm or DD? Analog or digital connection ? Have you tried playing with these settings to see if you can get a more acceptable sound? Some boxes and TV's have choices that accentuate the dialog or surround. It is possible that you may be able to change the center output thru a setting in the TV or cable box setup menu. 


If you have tried all this _and_ if you do like the 4.1 sound better for your TV you also have the option of setting up a 5.1 setup for movies and a 4.1 for music in ARC. As Bob has pointed out to me, movie and music are just Fred and Ethel as far as ARC is concerned. I don't know if you can change a 'same as' ARC solution to remove the center from the 'music' and leave it in the 'movie' by using the 'n' for center as Bob described, but I bet Bob does. If not you may need to do a new ARC run for 5.1 and 4.1.


Good luck,
Tom


----------



## thestewman

dmusoke said:


> Tom:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. I'm 'removing' the center channel because it seems so predominant when watching TV material. despite the fact that both my main and center speakers are from the same manufacturer. I use Martin-Logan electrostatics (Spires) and Center (Stage) and wanted to see how the sound would change if center channel is removed from the equation.


When you have such great speakers which probably give you great depth of field and a wide expansive surround stage when set up with ARC why move to a phantom speaker to arrive at the same sound ?
If the center speaker is imposing use the on the fly remote adjustment to reduce the audio level of the center speaker


----------



## AVfile

TV material. It is often front and Center heavy. He just wants to use his mains more, maybe to get back some of what you describe. Turning down the volume trim will not help if the other speakers are practically dormant.


----------



## AVfile

solly46 said:


> When TV source is selected, I am unable to change modes, only able to use Dolby D. Is there something I need to change?



You need to press MODE then use the arrow keys to scroll through the choices. You will have more choices if you have > 5 speakers, but there should always be some choices.


----------



## dmusoke

thestewman said:


> When you have such great speakers which probably give you great depth of field and a wide expansive surround stage when set up with ARC why move to a phantom speaker to arrive at the same sound ?
> If the center speaker is imposing use the on the fly remote adjustment to reduce the audio level of the center speaker





AVfile said:


> TV material. It is often front and Center heavy. He just wants to use his mains more, maybe to get back some of what you describe. Turning down the volume trim will not help if the other speakers are practically dormant.


Exactly, TV material is so center channel centric that my mains fall silent and at times, they power down because they receive no signal. This often happens when I watch hour long PBS news broadcasts with no commercials.


I really like the ambience effect and like you said, its the main reason I wanted to see if I can duplicate it if I route all program material from the center channel to the main speakers. I re-upload the 4.1 configuration last night before I went to sleep so I'll test it this week to see if it works well.


Tom:
For my music setup, I have ARC set up as a 2.1 for stereo sources, so I can't have both 5.1 and 4.1 configurations in ARC, as it doesn't have a third configuration. But thanks for the great suggestions...


----------



## tngiloy

dmusoke said:


> Tom:
> For my music setup, I have ARC set up as a 2.1 for stereo sources, so I can't have both 5.1 and 4.1 configurations in ARC, as it doesn't have a third configuration. But thanks for the great suggestions...



Actually you can use the 4.1 ARC configuration for your 2.1 sources. Just set the 'mode' for your music sources to 'stereo'. No signal will be sent to your surrounds. It may not be as perfect as setting ARC up as pure 2.1, but I bet the sound difference will be negligible. Plus you will have the option of comparing stereo to Anthem music if you want to compare them. 
Just saying.
Tom


----------



## dmusoke

Then my sub won't be engaged when the setup mode for music is stereo, or am I wrong?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Stereo Mode still uses the Sub for steered bass. 
--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

dmusoke said:


> Then my sub won't be engaged when the setup mode for music is stereo, or am I wrong?


Your sub will be active if the source is set to 'analog dsp' and ARC is enabled. In 'source set-up'-- For that music source set 'audio in' (g) to 'analog dsp'. (m) turn ARC on.
Tom


----------



## solly46

AVfile said:


> You need to press MODE then use the arrow keys to scroll through the choices. You will have more choices if you have > 5 speakers, but there should always be some choices.


I tried pressing mode , then arrow keys, no change?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The available Modes are determined by the content you are playing and the number of speakers you have configured.

Press the Select button on the remote several times and note the display that shows the speaker channels coming in on the content you are playing.

If your Dolby Digital input is 5.1, and you have 5.1 speakers configured, there's no work for the Surround Sound Modes to do, so none are offered. (You can still choose to add THX post processing or not with the THX button.)

If you have 7.1 speakers configured, that same 5.1 input will now offer several Mode choices -- i.e., different ways to expand that into 7.1 speakers output.

If you play stereo input, you'll have even more Mode choices available to expand that into 5.1 or 7.1 speakers output.

So what were you playing as input and what were you trying to achieve as output?
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

dmusoke said:


> Exactly, TV material is so center channel centric that my mains fall silent and at times, they power down because they receive no signal. This often happens when I watch hour long PBS news broadcasts with no commercials.
> 
> 
> I really like the ambience effect and like you said, its the main reason I wanted to see if I can duplicate it if I route all program material from the center channel to the main speakers. I re-upload the 4.1 configuration last night before I went to sleep so I'll test it this week to see if it works well.
> 
> 
> Tom:
> For my music setup, I have ARC set up as a 2.1 for stereo sources, so I can't have both 5.1 and 4.1 configurations in ARC, as it doesn't have a third configuration. But thanks for the great suggestions...





dmusoke said:


> Then my sub won't be engaged when the setup mode for music is stereo, or am I wrong?





Bob Pariseau said:


> Stereo Mode still uses the Sub for steered bass.
> --Bob





tngiloy said:


> Your sub will be active if the source is set to 'analog dsp' and ARC is enabled. In 'source set-up'-- For that music source set 'audio in' (g) to 'analog dsp'. (m) turn ARC on.
> Tom


Guys

I hate to be the contrarian but why would you care about low rez audio for hour long PBS News broadcasts ? 
There is no need for sub output and probably no sub signal exists and the audio is probably 384mhz or less.
The PBS network news when I checked on my cable system was mainly a mono signal

I also question the source hookup if it is dropping the signal so you might tell us how you are feeding the PBS news network to the Anthem.


----------



## dmusoke

Stew:


The original intent was not to engage sub output when watching low-res PBS newscasts as you've stated. My goal was to try eliminating the center channel since its so predominant in TV material for both news and music shows leaving sometimes causing my L/R speakers to power down. I have a 5.1 DD cable feed into the Anthem.


Hence the suggestion I came up with to try a 4.1 setup (without center channel activated) and that's when I asked if I need to re-ARC or not. Bob P. told me to simply set it to 'n' and re-upload ARC. Others suggested other helpful tips as well hence the back and forth you observed.


As you've observed, having subs engaged for mono low-res material like newscasts is meaningless(even kind of silly I'd say). I'm giving the new 4.1 configuration a try the next few weeks (w/o center) and will make the final decision whether to keep it or revert to the original 5.1.


----------



## thestewman

dmusoke said:


> Stew:
> 
> 
> The original intent was not to engage sub output when watching low-res PBS newscasts as you've stated. My goal was to try eliminating the center channel since its so predominant in TV material for both news and music shows leaving sometimes causing my L/R speakers to power down. I have a 5.1 DD cable feed into the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Hence the suggestion I came up with to try a 4.1 setup (without center channel activated) and that's when I asked if I need to re-ARC or not. Bob P. told me to simply set it to 'n' and re-upload ARC. Others suggested other helpful tips as well hence the back and forth you observed.
> 
> 
> As you've observed, having subs engaged for mono low-res material like newscasts is meaningless(even kind of silly I'd say). I'm giving the new 4.1 configuration a try the next few weeks (w/o center) and will make the final decision whether to keep it or revert to the original 5.1.


Don't get me wrong I was not criticizing your objective just questioning what would be the result.
I am and think you should be concerned the signal drops out to keep your amps powered up for the left and right front speakers. Something is not right there
I assume the DD 5.1 cable signal is over HDMI ?
Why not try listening to the PBS News broadcasts using the normal 5.1 source feed using all the speakers as a mono or Anthem Logic or All Channel just for the news broadcasts.
It definitely will give you ambience for a low rez source without using up your ARC setup choices


----------



## dmusoke

Sorry for the miss-speak on my part. The power down is caused by my speakers and not the amps. They have this thing where if they don't get a large enough signal for about 10-15 minutes, they power down. All Martin-Logan electro-stats do that. Its part of the power-saving feature required for active components that are to be sold world-wide, especially the EU.


I would also implement your suggestion if it wasn't for the faulty encoding PBS does for its programming. The news broadcasts are encoded at DD5.1, yet when you check each speaker, only the center channel is active and others are silent. Its a farce that sours me greatly but they do that a lot. Even their music programs are encoded as DD5.1 but only the front mains (L/R) are really active. So I can't engaged other surround modes because according to Anthem, its receiving DD5.1 material(even though actual material isn't) so no way to engage other surround modes.


----------



## studlygoorite

I have this problem with hockey games a lot lately, if you are able to go into your cable/satellite box and change the audio to PCM you will then have other audio options available on the Anthem.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

dmusoke said:


> My goal was to try eliminating the center channel since its so predominant in TV material for both news and music shows leaving sometimes causing my L/R speakers to power down. I have a 5.1 DD cable feed into the Anthem.


Movie config - 5.1
Music config, or in this case TV config - 4.1
Mode for stereo input - None. This makes no use of surround channels, providing identical result to using 2.1 config.

If you measured separately for Music and it was only for 2.1 speakers, you'll need to re-measure. Do so *only* for Movie, then go to Targets, enable Music (all channels will be copied from Movie), and disable its center channel.


----------



## dmusoke

Sounds like a good plan Nick. Thanks !


----------



## thestewman

dmusoke said:


> Stew:
> 
> 
> The original intent was not to engage sub output when watching low-res PBS newscasts as you've stated. My goal was to try eliminating the center channel since its so predominant in TV material for both news and music shows leaving sometimes causing my L/R speakers to power down. I have a 5.1 DD cable feed into the Anthem.
> 
> 
> Hence the suggestion I came up with to try a 4.1 setup (without center channel activated) and that's when I asked if I need to re-ARC or not. Bob P. told me to simply set it to 'n' and re-upload ARC. Others suggested other helpful tips as well hence the back and forth you observed.
> 
> 
> As you've observed, having subs engaged for mono low-res material like newscasts is meaningless(even kind of silly I'd say). I'm giving the new 4.1 configuration a try the next few weeks (w/o center) and will make the final decision whether to keep it or revert to the original 5.1.


Would this be another possibility and eliminate modifying the 2 ARC options ?
Since we are talking mainly about a low rez voice input of a news program 
Add an analog, optical or coaxial audio output from your cable box to the Anthem.
Set up one of the multiple available DVD or TV sources for the news broadcast 
Select the appropriate audio input you added from the cable box to use for the source you will use now only for the news broadcasts. Then Select Mono, Stereo, All channel stereo, etc as you desire.
Much simpler and No need to change ARC.


----------



## Nicoff

I have been using an Oppo 105 plugged into the Anthem through the 6-Channel RCA inputs. When doing the calibration of the Oppo I had to change the speaker trims to make sure that all channels had the same volume.
I have not engaged ARC with the 6-Channel source on the Anthem. That's because I think that since I made volume changes, aRC would be trying to make further changes to the volume of each speaker. Am I correct in my assumption?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Nicoff said:


> I have been using an Oppo 105 plugged into the Anthem through the 6-Channel RCA inputs. When doing the calibration of the Oppo I had to change the speaker trims to make sure that all channels had the same volume.
> I have not engaged ARC with the 6-Channel source on the Anthem. That's because I think that since I made volume changes, aRC would be trying to make further changes to the volume of each speaker. Am I correct in my assumption?


If you want to enable ARC with the 6-Channel Analog input, then set the OPPO 105 to do no processing on its multi-channel Analog outputs.

To do this: In the OPPO, set all speakers LARGE and the Subwoofer ON. Set all speakers and Sub equidistant -- any distance will do so long as they are all the same. You can just leave them at the default 12 feet. Set all speakers and Sub to 0dB Volume trim. Set the Down-Mix to 5.1.

With these settings, the OPPO will do no Crossover processing, no speaker time alignment and no volume trim. The Sub output of the OPPO will need +10dB boost to match the level of the other RCA jacks, but the Anthem provides that automatically, so there's nothing special you need to do to achieve that.

In the Anthem, set the 6-Channel Source to ANALOG-DSP, and enable Room EQ.
--Bob


----------



## Nicoff

Bob Pariseau said:


> If you want to enable ARC with the 6-Channel Analog input, then set the OPPO 105 to do no processing on its multi-channel Analog outputs.
> 
> To do this: In the OPPO, set all speakers LARGE and the Subwoofer ON. Set all speakers and Sub equidistant -- any distance will do so long as they are all the same. You can just leave them at the default 12 feet. Set all speakers and Sub to 0dB Volume trim. Set the Down-Mix to 5.1.
> 
> With these settings, the OPPO will do no Crossover processing, no speaker time alignment and no volume trim. The Sub output of the OPPO will need +10dB boost to match the level of the other RCA jacks, but the Anthem provides that automatically, so there's nothing special you need to do to achieve that.
> 
> In the Anthem, set the 6-Channel Source to ANALOG-DSP, and enable Room EQ.
> --Bob


Thank you Bob!!


----------



## leeshanok

Wondering if anyone who has both an AVM20 or 30 and an AVM50, if there is a noticeable improvement in sound quality in 2-ch analog direct. I have an AVM20 which I love, but thinking of getting the AVM50. I'm 90% music/10% movies.


----------



## Thxtheater

I went from an AVM20 to an AVM50v. For pure analog you won't find some musical "aha!" What you will find, though, is the huge benefit of ARC -- even in analog sources. 

My recommendation is that if you do only Analog and don't care for room correction then stay where you are. If you do then consider the 50v. 

The other questions have is what about HDMI and digital sources? That's another area where the latest inputs etc on the 50 are huge.


----------



## leeshanok

Thxtheater said:


> I went from an AVM20 to an AVM50v. For pure analog you won't find some musical "aha!" What you will find, though, is the huge benefit of ARC -- even in analog sources.
> 
> My recommendation is that if you do only Analog and don't care for room correction then stay where you are. If you do then consider the 50v.
> 
> The other questions have is what about HDMI and digital sources? That's another area where the latest inputs etc on the 50 are huge.


Thanks for the input. For straight 2-ch music, I like it pure, without ARC. I don't really need HDMI for this setup since I have a W4S Dac2 for my digital sources into the AVM20 strictly as a preamp. I have an MRX300 for another setup, but the preamp section is not as good as the AVM20. If there is no marked analog sound improvement with an AVM50, then I'll just used the AVM20.


----------



## thestewman

leeshanok said:


> Thanks for the input. For straight 2-ch music, I like it pure, without ARC. I don't really need HDMI for this setup since I have a W4S Dac2 for my digital sources into the AVM20 strictly as a preamp. I have an MRX300 for another setup, but the preamp section is not as good as the AVM20. If there is no marked analog sound improvement with an AVM50, then I'll just used the AVM20.


Good choice for setup with analog or digital 2 channel audio sources
Anthem has stated when you use analog direct there are no components or circuits in the system except op amps for the volume control. Pure as Pure can be


----------



## RobDec

Hi 
A couple of quick questions.
1) Are the trim levels on the AVM50v 3d the same for DTS and DTS es Discrete on DVD. Mine are different.

2) Before when a movie starts it will often flash different Audio modes. I know that's normal. What surprised me is STEREO flashes for a second or two, and STEREO is not a preselected Audio mode. Not too alarmed but Im curious.

Thanks
Rob


----------



## benleeys

The pixels on my D2v are dying. About 30% of them don't light up anymore.

Are any of you experiencing this problem?

Ben


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You mean on the Front Panel display?

That would likely require a return for service. 
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Hi
> A couple of quick questions.
> 1) Are the trim levels on the AVM50v 3d the same for DTS and DTS es Discrete on DVD. Mine are different.
> 
> 2) Before when a movie starts it will often flash different Audio modes. I know that's normal. What surprised me is STEREO flashes for a second or two, and STEREO is not a preselected Audio mode. Not too alarmed but Im curious.
> 
> Thanks
> Rob


Can you give a cleared explanation and description as it is not clear what you are asking in question #1 

I get no flashing from any video source unless I press the remote control enter button.
What is the source of the movie or is it a video file you are watching ?
Where is the flashing occurring ? The Anthem AVM50 display ? Or your video display's screen ?
Is it the Anthem on screen graphics or your video source's graphics you are seeing


----------



## RobDec

Hi Thestewman
For question #1 What I meant by the trim levels is the "on the fly " levels Front, Rear, Surround, Center and Sub. I had an issue with "on the Fly' settings on a previous unit and the kind folks at Anthem let me swap it out for a new unit (the first unit had multiple issues) So Im being cautious with this unit.

For question #2 What I meant was before a movie starts on the front display of the Anthem. Different audio formats flash on the front panel. Ex. If a movie is DD5.1 the previews may be 2.0+ PLIIx and the anthem will flash these accordingly on the front display. But the flash I got was STEREO which wasn't a preselected mode. 

Thanks
Rob


----------



## xtrips

Hello all,

I am wondering how the D2v 3D deals with Dolby Atmos soundtracks.
Because I am watching John Wick right now and this is the first time I encounter this new sound format.
The problem is that every now and then my D2v simply loses sync and drops sound. How can I explain? The sound just disappears completely for 2-3 seconds while the D2v's display shows it is looking for something? Then the sound comes back. Very annoying.
Is this a known issue?


----------



## xtrips

I solved the problem, temporarily I hope, by switching my player from Bitstream to PCM. Sound is steady now.
I hope there is a more reasonable solution such as in the settings, or a new firmware.


----------



## Kris Deering

xtrips said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I am wondering how the D2v 3D deals with Dolby Atmos soundtracks.
> Because I am watching John Wick right now and this is the first time I encounter this new sound format.
> The problem is that every now and then my D2v simply loses sync and drops sound. How can I explain? The sound just disappears completely for 2-3 seconds while the D2v's display shows it is looking for something? Then the sound comes back. Very annoying.
> Is this a known issue?


This isn't a problem with the Anthem it is a problem with your Blu-ray player. Older decoder chips have issues with Dolby TrueHD soundtracks because of issues with seamless branching. This plagues a lot of older players (even the Oppo's). I watched John Wick yesterday playing from an Oppo 103D via bitstream to a D2V 3D and didn't have a single drop out, but this is pretty common with older players.


----------



## xtrips

Kris Deering said:


> This isn't a problem with the Anthem it is a problem with your Blu-ray player. Older decoder chips have issues with Dolby TrueHD soundtracks because of issues with seamless branching. This plagues a lot of older players (even the Oppo's). I watched John Wick yesterday playing from an Oppo 103D via bitstream to a D2V 3D and didn't have a single drop out, but this is pretty common with older players.



Well, that seems like a plausible explanation to me since my player is indeed old (Dune HD Base 3).
Case closed. I will use PCM whenever I encounter an Atmos soundtrack.
Thanks for the quick answer.


----------



## benleeys

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ You mean on the Front Panel display?
> 
> That would likely require a return for service.
> --Bob


Yea, Bob, the front panel display. Sighh ...


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Hi Thestewman
> For question #1 What I meant by the trim levels is the "on the fly " levels Front, Rear, Surround, Center and Sub. I had an issue with "on the Fly' settings on a previous unit and the kind folks at Anthem let me swap it out for a new unit (the first unit had multiple issues) So Im being cautious with this unit.
> 
> For question #2 What I meant was before a movie starts on the front display of the Anthem. Different audio formats flash on the front panel. Ex. If a movie is DD5.1 the previews may be 2.0+ PLIIx and the anthem will flash these accordingly on the front display. But the flash I got was STEREO which wasn't a preselected mode.
> 
> Thanks
> Rob


"On the Fly" levels are set by *input format* not by the source. You can use them as you want to correct any deficiencies you hear. They are remembered at shutdown of the unit and recalled at startup
You can reset them all to zero by Saving User settings, then Load Factory defaults and the Load User settings.

This might be a number of things occurring none to worry about.
Since you never said what your movie source was and assuming t was not a Blu Ray disc
it could be a slow handshake issue with your source or maybe with a cable box.
It could also be the source switching from one format to another before the feature actually starts. Tv stations are notorious for doing that.
Also some dvd and Bluray discs will have a stereo or 2.0 Dolby format before starting the main feature and then change to 5.1 or HD lossless format.
if the main feature plays in the correct format I would not worry


----------



## gerard1meehan

Last night while watching Guardians of the Galaxy I was playing with the THX mode. So what does the THX mode actually do? I’ve been reading the D2v manual and I guess Im having a hard time wrapping my arms and or head around it. Personally I liked the sound of THX off best.

But what’s going on when it’s "on"??


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If you are using ARC, I recommend you leave the THX post processing OFF. The ARC audio is so good that you'll hear the "processed" sound if you turn THX on.

The THX stuff in the Anthem actually includes several different things. All are discussed in the Manual, but it can certainly be confusing.

The THX post processing attempts to make the Center and the Surrounds sound better by fiddling with the sound a bit. The most stuff gets done if you have a 7.1 speaker setup. "De-correlation" means putting the sound slightly out of phase which makes it harder to localize sound as coming from a speaker when it is playing in multiple speakers. This is supposed to make the surround sound more enveloping.

Separate from that "make it sound better" stuff is the THX implementation of re-equalization, which you can turn on or off separately from whether the rest of the THX post processing is enabled.

Re-equalization removes the modest treble boost which is built into theater tracks to help deal with what happens to treble in a theater full of people with speakers well up the walls. The thing is, almost all movies sold on discs (SD-DVD or Blu-ray) have ALREADY been re-equalized for home theater. So it's actually wrong to turn on the THX re-equalization stuff for those. If you think that a movie track is a little bit brassy, then maybe you have a rare instance of a disc which has not be re-equalized, and you can turn on THX re-equalization to cure that. Also there are some instances where production noise (machinery and editing room CRT display stuff) is audible in treble, and re-equalization can tame that down.

I can't remember the last time I felt the need to turn on THX re-equalization.

----------------------------------------------------

Entirely separate from THX re-equalization is ACADEMY re-equalization. This is enabled by selecting Mono-Academy audio surround mode (only available if playing a stereo or Mono track and with THX post processing turned off).

This filters out the MUCH more aggressive treble boost built into old movies -- typically 4:3, black and white, from the 50s or older. The Academy treble boost was applied to deal with the fact that back then the sole theater speaker was positioned BEHIND the rather thick movie screens of the day.

These days, most studios putting out old catalog movies make sure they are properly re-equalized to remove that Academy treble boost when they are transferred to disc. And you certainly do not want to filter those a second time through Mono-Academy mode. But if you play an old movie and find it to be brassy or hissy, try using Mono-Academy mode and see if it doesn't sound a whole lot better.
--Bob


----------



## jitenn

*AVM50v volume dips*

I recently noticed an issue with my AVM50v with large fluctuations in volume. It tends to go down by 5-10dB and go back up to normal, all without a discernible change to the incoming dialog. Also, it could take a long time for the volume to go back to normal (e.g., 15-mins). Furthermore, a hard or a soft power cycle does not reset the volume. 

It's easily repeatable - happens everyday when I watch Tivo'd Jeopardy (which doesn't really have any meaningful ups and downs in soundtrack volume). The volume fluctuation happens across all my sources - Tivo Premiere XL, Oppo 95, PlayStation 3 for Netflix and Amazon VOD (though, for the Oppo and PS3, I can't definitively say I can repeat the problem when I want to). 

I am running firmware 3.09j, and I have Dolby Volume On (level 5, half mode on). I used to use Cinema Reference, but the volume fluctuations were much more dramatic. Am going to try Dolby Volume off, but not sure why 


Thoughts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I'd say you are just hearing the, ahem, "normal" operation Dolby Volume. I don't like it, myself.

Yes, I'd recommend running with Dolby Volume OFF and see if the issue goes away.
--Bob


----------



## gerard1meehan

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ If you are using ARC, I recommend you leave the THX post processing OFF. The ARC audio is so good that you'll hear the "processed" sound if you turn THX on.
> 
> The THX stuff in the Anthem actually includes several different things. All are discussed in the Manual, but it can certainly be confusing.
> 
> The THX post processing attempts to make the Center and the Surrounds sound better by fiddling with the sound a bit. The most stuff gets done if you have a 7.1 speaker setup. "De-correlation" means putting the sound slightly out of phase which makes it harder to localize sound as coming from a speaker when it is playing in multiple speakers. This is supposed to make the surround sound more enveloping.
> 
> Separate from that "make it sound better" stuff is the THX implementation of re-equalization, which you can turn on or off separately from whether the rest of the THX post processing is enabled.
> 
> Re-equalization removes the modest treble boost which is built into theater tracks to help deal with what happens to treble in a theater full of people with speakers well up the walls. The thing is, almost all movies sold on discs (SD-DVD or Blu-ray) have ALREADY been re-equalized for home theater. So it's actually wrong to turn on the THX re-equalization stuff for those. If you think that a movie track is a little bit brassy, then maybe you have a rare instance of a disc which has not be re-equalized, and you can turn on THX re-equalization to cure that. Also there are some instances where production noise (machinery and editing room CRT display stuff) is audible in treble, and re-equalization can tame that down.
> 
> I can't remember the last time I felt the need to turn on THX re-equalization.
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------
> 
> Entirely separate from THX re-equalization is ACADEMY re-equalization. This is enabled by selecting Mono-Academy audio surround mode (only available if playing a stereo or Mono track and with THX post processing turned off).
> 
> This filters out the MUCH more aggressive treble boost built into old movies -- typically 4:3, black and white, from the 50s or older. The Academy treble boost was applied to deal with the fact that back then the sole theater speaker was positioned BEHIND the rather thick movie screens of the day.
> 
> These days, most studios putting out old catalog movies make sure they are properly re-equalized to remove that Academy treble boost when they are transferred to disc. And you certainly do not want to filter those a second time through Mono-Academy mode. But if you play an old movie and find it to be brassy or hissy, try using Mono-Academy mode and see if it doesn't sound a whole lot better.
> --Bob


Thanks Bob!


----------



## RobDec

thestewman,
Thank you for your post and the time you put into it. It has been helpful.
Rob


----------



## jitenn

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ I'd say you are just hearing the, ahem, "normal" operation Dolby Volume. I don't like it, myself.
> 
> Yes, I'd recommend running with Dolby Volume OFF and see if the issue goes away.
> --Bob


Thanks Bob. One evening on Dolby Volume Off, and no issues. Will keep at it this weekend. Agree with you that am not sure I like this feature anymore. Interesting that I hadn't had issues for the past 3-4 years - since I've owned my Anthem. Am inclined to believe that network TV stations are back in the loudness business...


----------



## boe

I currently have a couple of P5s and one P2. I have a Denon AVP and considered the D2 years ago but ended up getting a couple of AVPs as they were much less expensive, had comparable sound and functionality and frankly I also preferred their looks (I don't like all the silver buttons on the D2). That being said, my AVP is getting very long in the tooth and I'll probably one of the first people welcoming all the 4K goodness and new surround audio formats coming. Rumor has it Denon will not be making an AVP2 so I sincerely hope Anthem will be ready with a D3 by the end of this year.


----------



## thestewman

boe said:


> I currently have a couple of P5s and one P2. I have a Denon AVP and considered the D2 years ago but ended up getting a couple of AVPs as they were much less expensive, had comparable sound and functionality and frankly I also preferred their looks (I don't like all the silver buttons on the D2). That being said, my AVP is getting very long in the tooth and I'll probably one of the first people welcoming all the 4K goodness and new surround audio formats coming. Rumor has it Denon will not be making an AVP2 so I sincerely hope Anthem will be ready with a D3 by the end of this year.


Might pay to be very patient.
Currently there are few if any AV units that have more than 1 HDMI 2.0 port and HDCP 2,.2 nd more is a definite need. Actually a must unless you want to be adding external 4K switchers etc. And even those 4K switchers are not capable yet.
Additionally the most current Blu Ray spec was recently agreed upon and no AV units I know of are currently up to date.
There are units with a few new features like Atmos and other new sound formats etc, but definitely missing the most important 4K requirements for future longevity.
Again I suggest be very patient unless you want to be left behind with another outdated box as there are numerous software and hardware requirements no one is capable of currently.


----------



## boe

thestewman said:


> Might pay to be very patient.


LOL - I have no choice but to wait as there isn't ANYTHING in the prepro line that has the specs I need and the quality I want. Patience unfortunately is not something I can just flip on  I can be patient with someone trying to learn how to do something, but I have a hard time with patience when it comes to tech I want that isn't available yet.


Likewise I imagine it will be about a year before we see an oppo to play the 4K discs. Its tough knowing the goodness coming is so close but still won't be here for another year.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I fully expect the first crop of "real" 4K gear -- I mean with full bandwidth, full color gamut support, incompatible "3D™" audio formats, and new style, even nastier copy protection -- will also come with factory installed gotchas.

For example, the processing power may not be there to do all the bells while also doing all the whistles. Think of the sort of stuff that happened with the first "real" 1080p gear: You can decode DTS-HD MA or have Audyssey, but not both.

This is a case where early adopters may very well need to upgrade again within a year. (Folks who got last year's, "not real" 4K gear are in even worse shape.)
--Bob


----------



## Klaus_282

Hello all!

Do any of you fellow Anthem D2V (and similar) owners use iRule to control it?


I just started programming various iRule panels, which is easy enough for basic functions.


I'm struggling though with the D2V due to the complexity of the preamp and the available options.

There is no panel available for download, the RS-232 control list is incomplete (e.g. change volume of center channel) and the available feedback is very basic too.


Could anyone share screenshots of how the operate their D2V/AVM? Or even share the panels? I could use some pointers to get started or even a template / working panel.


Any ideas, help and directions are greatly appreciated. And I'll be happy to share what I create as well.


Some thoughts about what I had in mind:

- A panel to operate the basic functions - Source, Volume, etc.
- An Audio Config panel that easily allows adjusting the volume of each speaker.
For listening to music it would be neat to have a panel that looks like a listening room - and you can move the listening position around on the panel. The program would then adjust the speaker volumes (or balance / fade) accordingly.
- A surround mode panel that allows adjusting all those surround parameters and modes..
- All the above could maybe be done with pop-up / scroll-down menus or the like.


Any thoughts?


Klaus


----------



## drhankz

Klaus_282 said:


> Hello all!
> 
> Do any of you fellow Anthem D2V (and similar) owners use iRule to control it?
> 
> 
> I just started programming various iRule panels, which is easy enough for basic functions.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Klaus


All you really need is *volume up *and *down* and *MUTE*.
Then the various commands for selecting the *source*. 
As a *CRESTRON* Programmer that is all I use. 

All the myriad of other parameters the owner only
uses once in his/her life during setup.


----------



## Klaus_282

*iRule Panels for D2V*

Hello!

I'm using my HiFi system for various purposes - active listening to stereo music, 5ch surround music for entertainment, SACD music and BluRay movies...

I switch between stereo and surround a lot, and I enjoy trying out different settings.

One really important feature while watching movies is the adjustment of the center speaker volume. I change this basically for every movie I watch.

While only basic controls might work for many people - I need more.... That's probably why my Logitech Harmony 890 was not sufficient any more for me and I moved to iRule.

Klaus


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Klaus_282 said:


> I just started programming various iRule panels ... There is no panel available for download, the RS-232 control list is incomplete (e.g. change volume of center channel) and the available feedback is very basic too.


If Tx is enabled, everything will be fed back. If you only need specific info, use the query commands, for example P1VC? which is for center channel volume (this is in row 91 of serial command spreadsheet). To set center channel volume, use P1VCsxx.x (row 19).

Note that there is at least one community file for the D2v and iRule appears to be working on something as well:

https://irule.desk.com/customer/por...in-device-list-anthem-sunfire-denon?b_id=4198

Note that the center channel contains sound effects as well as dialog, so be careful not to turn it up too much based on dialog level alone.


----------



## johnfusco

Quick question. If I changed my center channel cross over to 65Hz from 60Hz to match my towers would it have an ill effect on my ARC settings? Thanks


----------



## AVfile

Quick answer: yes.

Was 65 Hz the cutoff in ARC?
Load your last session and try setting the cutoff to 60 Hz in ARC, re-calculate, and upload (do not re-measure). The crossover will probably get set to 60.


----------



## johnfusco

AVfile said:


> Quick answer: yes.
> 
> Was 65 Hz the cutoff in ARC?
> Load your last session and try setting the cutoff to 60 Hz in ARC, re-calculate, and upload (do not re-measure). The crossover will probably get set to 60.


60 Hz was the cutoff that ARC set for my center and I always wondered why ARC didn't set it to 65 Hz to match my towers.


----------



## AVfile

That's OK. ARC must have just optimized use of resources by leveraging the crossover filter. I wouldn't mess with it.


----------



## johnfusco

AVfile said:


> That's OK. ARC must have just optimized use of resources by leveraging the crossover filter. I wouldn't mess with it.


OK Thanks


----------



## Thxtheater

Klaus_282 said:


> Hello all!
> 
> Do any of you fellow Anthem D2V (and similar) owners use iRule to control it?
> 
> 
> I just started programming various iRule panels, which is easy enough for basic functions.
> 
> 
> I'm struggling though with the D2V due to the complexity of the preamp and the available options.
> 
> There is no panel available for download, the RS-232 control list is incomplete (e.g. change volume of center channel) and the available feedback is very basic too.
> 
> 
> Klaus


Klaus,

In addition to what Nick said, I did the Roomie Remote code for the D2v/50v. I found Anthem's RS232 spreadsheet to be a phenomenal reference and was able to transfer over many of the settings in the spreadsheet to the Roomie control interface. While I know Roomie isn't iRule, my simple point is that once you have a base set of commands working properly you just copy out the RS232 codes from the spreadsheet and implement them into the iRule interface. It's important to highlight what Nick said about feedback too so that you can debug anything that you don't see working right and the feedback is critical for determining status-response feedback from the Anthem back to the iRule. With Roomie, that's how it works to display what the volume and input the unit is set at.

I completely understand your desire to have an extensive command set and hope you can get one squared away.


----------



## RobDec

Hi
Can anyone explain what "ADC/ Audio Outputs" mean? Is it just for recording purposes? I read the manual but would like further clarification please.
Thanks
Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Hi
> Can anyone explain what "ADC/ Audio Outputs" mean? Is it just for recording purposes? I read the manual but would like further clarification please.
> Thanks
> Rob


ADC/Audio Outputs

You pretty much answered your question

Analog Digital Conversion of analog input for digital Audio output

Allows you to set the sampling frequency of an analog input signal for digital output when it it set to Analog/DSP. The sampling frequency would be the digitalaudio output signal sent to Digital 1 or Digital 2 Rec-Out that your recording device can handle ie: 44.1kHz 96kHz 192kHz etc


----------



## RobDec

Thanks thestewsman
I have a few more questions. I hope anyone can answer.
1) I have heard the AVMv/D2v does not work well with power conditioners. I have a Furman (spr 20i) power conditioner. That I would like to utilize. If not does the processors have a built in surge protector and black out protection?
2) I also have a Audioquest (NRG 2) that im not using and wonder if I can use with the processors?
30 Is the phono preamp "ifi iphono" compatable with the procerssors?
Thanks Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Thanks thestewsman
> I have a few more questions. I hope anyone can answer.
> 1) I have heard the AVMv/D2v does not work well with power conditioners. I have a Furman (spr 20i) power conditioner. That I would like to utilize. If not does the processors have a built in surge protector and black out protection?
> 2) I also have a Audioquest (NRG 2) that im not using and wonder if I can use with the processors?
> 30 Is the phono preamp "ifi iphono" compatable with the procerssors?
> Thanks Rob


Power conditioners have not been recommended by Anthem. if you search this forum somewhere you will find a statement from Anthem stating not recommended.
I do know this is not the case with many owners.
Try it both ways and see if you hear or see any difference which would then make a case for the use of the Furman unit.
The unit has surge protection it does not have a built in UPS. In the case of a power failure the unit will turn off and not restart automatically
No reason not to try and then use a better power cord too

ifi phono should work without problems. Use it with the aux source and setup for stereo analog input


----------



## RobDec

Thanks again thestewman,
Im mostly concerned about damage to the processor. And judging by your reply I would say, No.

Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Thanks again thestewman,
> Im mostly concerned about damage to the processor. And judging by your reply I would say, No.
> 
> Rob


No damage. But Anthem insists it sounds/operates and performs better without AC conditioning. 
Maybe Nick will read your questions and respond here and explain their philosophy


----------



## stanger89

I was thinking it was regarding amps, not processors, where they recommended against power conditioners, because power conditioners can restrict current.


----------



## RobDec

I think it's a no-brainer for directly going into the receptacle if it sounds, operates and performs better and has surge protection. Is there any reason why a power conditioner is better for an Anthem processor?
Rob


----------



## AVfile

RobDec said:


> I think it's a no-brainer for directly going into the receptacle if it sounds, operates and performs better and has surge protection.


You can get a receptacle with surge protection built in for around $35. I put one of these on my ceiling for the projector. I have the Anthem and all other electronics on a Panamax M8-AV-PRO that I've been using for a decade. Also eyeing a Furman unit as an upgrade some day.


----------



## jo5507

Surge protection is different from power conditioning. Protection makes sense, especially if you live in an area prone to spikes, lightening strikes, etc. Perhaps Anthem is referring to the vast number of audiophile power conditioners that can be had ....some for the price of a small car! I have tried several over the years, with no noticeable affect on sound quality. But I live in an area with clean, consistent power.


----------



## stanger89

I don't see any such warning in the AVM50V manual (I do see it if I go back to the AVM20 manual).


----------



## RobDec

Thanks guys
Interesting info. If the processors come with surge protection, then that's good enough for me. 
Rob


----------



## thestewman

stanger89 said:


> I don't see any such warning in the AVM50V manual (I do see it if I go back to the AVM20 manual).


I remember Nick commenting on power conditioning.
Hopefully he will read our comments and state the companies position.


----------



## AVfile

RobDec said:


> Thanks guys
> Interesting info. If the processors come with surge protection, then that's good enough for me.
> Rob



What makes you think that they come with surge protection? I thought we were talking about the Furman not the Anthem.


----------



## AVfile

thestewman said:


> I remember Nick commenting on power conditioning.
> 
> Hopefully he will read our comments and state the companies position.



They used to advise against using power conditioners or line filters with their older, more esoteric Sonic Frontiers preamps and amps. It was simply not recommended for optimal performance, but using one would not do any physical damage. 

In this thread I have seen Nick suggest (temporarily) eliminating any power conditioner as a debugging step for potential problems, when someone was experiencing strange behaviour with their Anthem. If one is not having issues then one could carry on using them.


----------



## RobDec

thestewman said:


> Power conditioners have not been recommended by Anthem. if you search this forum somewhere you will find a statement from Anthem stating not recommended.
> I do know this is not the case with many owners.
> Try it both ways and see if you hear or see any difference which would then make a case for the use of the Furman unit.
> The unit has surge protection it does not have a built in UPS. In the case of a power failure the unit will turn off and not restart automatically
> No reason not to try and then use a better power cord too
> 
> ifi phono should work without problems. Use it with the aux source and setup for stereo analog input





RobDec said:


> Thanks thestewsman
> I have a few more questions. I hope anyone can answer.
> 1) I have heard the AVMv/D2v does not work well with power conditioners. I have a Furman (spr 20i) power conditioner. That I would like to utilize. If not does the processors have a built in surge protector and black out protection?
> 2) I also have a Audioquest (NRG 2) that im not using and wonder if I can use with the processors?
> 30 Is the phono preamp "ifi iphono" compatable with the procerssors?
> Thanks Rob


AVfile, Here are quotes from earlier (My quote is before thestewmans) If I have misread his post, or wrongly asked my question, please forgive me

Rob.


----------



## AVfile

RobDec said:


> AVfile, Here are quotes from earlier (My quote is before thestewmans) If I have misread his post, or wrongly asked my question, please forgive me.



No sweat Rob. I think Stew was talking about the Furman here:



thestewman said:


> ... which would then make a case for the use of the Furman unit.
> 
> The unit has surge protection it does not have a built in UPS. In the case of a power failure the unit will turn off and not restart automatically


I would advise getting some form of surge protection on your system, if not the whole AC circuit for the room, or even the whole home! Depending how common surges are in your area you might need something more serious than what I have, professionally installed at the junction panel. Keep in mind some simple devices are sacrificial and would need replacing after being hit by a major power surge. There are many approaches as you can see here:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...s-brickwall-zero-surge-furman-surgex-etc.html

This can quickly get off topic so I encourage you to do some searches and read the appropriate forums. Let us know what you decide!

Stefan


----------



## RobDec

AVfile said:


> No sweat Rob. I think Stew was talking about the Furman here:
> 
> 
> 
> I would advise getting some form of surge protection on your system, if not the whole AC circuit for the room, or even the whole home! Depending how common surges are in your area you might need something more serious than what I have, professionally installed at the junction panel. Keep in mind some simple devices are sacrificial and would need replacing after being hit by a major power surge. There are many approaches as you can see here:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...s-brickwall-zero-surge-furman-surgex-etc.html
> 
> This can quickly get off topic so I encourage you to do some searches and read the appropriate forums. Let us know what you decide!
> 
> Stefan


 Thanks Stefan,
I do have a Furman spr-20i that I would like to utilize but heard it may damage the processor. If not ill be utilizing it with the Anthem.
Thanks again,

Rob


----------



## AVfile

RobDec said:


> Thanks Stefan,
> I do have a Furman spr-20i that I would like to utilize but heard it may damage the processor. If not ill be utilizing it with the Anthem.
> Thanks again,
> 
> Rob



Sorry I forgot you had mentioned you have a power conditioner (voltage regulator). It's probably overkill but, barring any catastrophic malfunction, won't hurt anything.


----------



## thestewman

Welcome to the forum and the Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 thread

i am responding to some of your questions against my better judgement. Since you are a new member and maybe unfamiliar the forum is not a text messaging service or a Facebook social gathering place.
It is useful when a forum member needs information and advice for problems etc that are not found in the manuals or on support sites
It would help you significantly and maybe save you much time and energy if you would undertake some searching with Google or here in the forum in regards to some of your answers



gcobb22 said:


> Hi Bob. Are you available to have a quick phone conversation today? I'm trying to decide between picking up a late model D2 w/ a red video board & a late model D2v with the newer video board that is able to be upgraded to 3D for $500. I just need to go over what differences there are between the two. I know all the basic changes but you may point something out that I wasn't aware of. I'm thinking this would be no more than a 5 min conversation that I'd paypal you to have with me. Let me know how much is fair, thanks. Steve XXX-XXX-XXXX



The answer in great detail is available by checking right here on earlier entries in the forum



gcobb22 said:


> Btw, can anyone advise on what the differences are between the Hdmi 1.1 standard & the 1.3c standards?


Differences between HDMI versions 1.1, 1.2, 1.3a, and 1.4a




gcobb22 said:


> Does either unit process DSD downloads? I don't believe so but just figuered I'd ask. Whew


No. If this means you are interested in listening to hirez downloads of music etc and lossless audio for video then moving to the D2v would be beneficial since some of the features of the D2v is it processes up to 192kHz and decodes lossless Dolby and DTS audio formats

Hope the above answers help you make a decision.
And again, Welcome to the forum and the Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 thread


----------



## AVfile

gcobb22 said:


> Sorry all. I thought I was sending that last post to Bob P. I apparently cannot pm anyone yet as I don't have enough posts.


Search this thread for "comparison chart" I just posted it a couple weeks ago. 

There is no DSD decoding in any model (edit: stew beat me to it). 

PS - there is a delete button if you want to edit your posts.


----------



## bigdaddy999

Hi folks. I have an Anthem D2 which has started having some issues.

The video drops out periodically and stays out until the Anthem is rebooted. This happens on component and HDMI connections from the FIOS cable box (Motorola DVR or non-DVR both the same). Sound does not drop.

Curiously, an HDMI connection from a ROKU 3 to the D2 does NOT drop out nearly as much, taking over an hour. I'm not convinced it's heat-related, but it is possible.

I have also swapped the cable box, and have the same result. So the issue is with the Anthem, it seems

Input Output to TV Issue
HDMI HDMI video dropout
Component HDMI video dropout
Component component video dropout

Is this a symptom of a dying video board? This will be the second repair on this beast (the first for HDMI input ports).

Anything else to try before contacting Anthem?
Thanks.


----------



## thestewman

bigdaddy999 said:


> Hi folks. I have an Anthem D2 which has started having some issues.
> 
> The video drops out periodically and stays out until the Anthem is rebooted. This happens on component and HDMI connections from the FIOS cable box (Motorola DVR or non-DVR both the same). Sound does not drop.
> 
> Curiously, an HDMI connection from a ROKU 3 to the D2 does NOT drop out nearly as much, taking over an hour. I'm not convinced it's heat-related, but it is possible.
> 
> I have also swapped the cable box, and have the same result. So the issue is with the Anthem, it seems
> 
> Input Output to TV Issue
> HDMI HDMI video dropout
> Component HDMI video dropout
> Component component video dropout
> 
> Is this a symptom of a dying video board? This will be the second repair on this beast (the first for HDMI input ports).
> 
> Anything else to try before contacting Anthem?
> Thanks.


Do you have the RED video/HDMI board ?

Have you tried a reboot by disconnecting the AC line and restarting ?
Or maybe shuffling or swapping the source inputs as a test. Say swap TV for CD etc


----------



## bigdaddy999

thestewman said:


> Do you have the RED video/HDMI board ?
> 
> Have you tried a reboot by disconnecting the AC line and restarting ?
> Or maybe shuffling or swapping the source inputs as a test. Say swap TV for CD etc


I"m not sure about the color of the board. It'd be a PITA to take the unit out of the cabinet to see (plus remove all cables).
I've tried swapping inputs, and thought that was going to help, but the output drops no matter whether inputs are component or hdmi as I mentioned above.

I'll try to reboot. it'd be just great if it's just a little software issue. Just unplug it for a while and then restart?

This was in for service once before for a problematic HDMI input, I believe. When it came back, it had firmware 1.47f loaded and I was no longer able to load 1.33 (boot loader error, which others have had and Anthem claims requires a return to factory). So it's running 1.47f.

tx


----------



## thestewman

bigdaddy999 said:


> I"m not sure about the color of the board. It'd be a PITA to take the unit out of the cabinet to see (plus remove all cables).
> I've tried swapping inputs, and thought that was going to help, but the output drops no matter whether inputs are component or hdmi as I mentioned above.
> 
> I'll try to reboot. it'd be just great if it's just a little software issue. Just unplug it for a while and then restart?
> 
> This was in for service once before for a problematic HDMI input, I believe. When it came back, it had firmware 1.47f loaded and I was no longer able to load 1.33 (boot loader error, which others have had and Anthem claims requires a return to factory). So it's running 1.47f.
> 
> tx


From your description of the install in such tight quarters it may be you are having a overheating problem.
Maybe try opening cabinet doors or a temp fan or other device to help cool the unit.

You can look down thru the slots in the cover and with small mirror and a flashlight see the board.

Disconnect or use the main switch to remove all AC. Wait a few minutes, maybe 10, and restart.

That is the correct firmware.

If none of this works a call to Anthem would be next


----------



## bigdaddy999

thestewman said:


> From your description of the install in such tight quarters it may be you are having a overheating problem.
> Maybe try opening cabinet doors or a temp fan or other device to help cool the unit.
> 
> You can look down thru the slots in the cover and with small mirror and a flashlight see the board.
> 
> Disconnect or use the main switch to remove all AC. Wait a few minutes, maybe 10, and restart.
> 
> That is the correct firmware.
> 
> If none of this works a call to Anthem would be next


I suppose heat is possible, but the problem is erratic. It can happen pretty quickly after turning on the system (5 minutes). 

After the power reset failed to change things, I tried more cable/port combos and generally, it still cut out the video. BUT, the ROKU 3 ran continuously for nearly 2 hours with no drops. So I took the same HDMI cable from the ROKU and used it on the FIOS DVR box (same inputs, everything) and the image failed to display. I then returned that cable to the ROKU and the image displayed, then dropped immediately. I don't get it.

The Anthem is in a 3-bay Salamander cabinet which is open to the left (center bay/center speaker) and rear and has a mesh door on the front. It's on the upper shelf. Below it is a Rotel RMB-1095, but that has fins on the front, next to the mesh screen door. The space above the Anthem is about the same height as below it, meaning "feet height". I don't generally run the system hard, but over time, heat may be a concern. If I end up shipping the D2 to Anthem, I will relocate the amp.

This D2 has never liked HDMI from the Verizon FIOS box, so I used components there with an optical connection for audio.

For now, I've eliminated use of video switching, going directly to the TV so we can use the system


----------



## thestewman

bigdaddy999 said:


> I suppose heat is possible, but the problem is erratic. It can happen pretty quickly after turning on the system (5 minutes).
> 
> After the power reset failed to change things, I tried more cable/port combos and generally, it still cut out the video. BUT, the ROKU 3 ran continuously for nearly 2 hours with no drops. So I took the same HDMI cable from the ROKU and used it on the FIOS DVR box (same inputs, everything) and the image failed to display. I then returned that cable to the ROKU and the image displayed, then dropped immediately. I don't get it.
> 
> The Anthem is in a 3-bay Salamander cabinet which is open to the left (center bay/center speaker) and rear and has a mesh door on the front. It's on the upper shelf. Below it is a Rotel RMB-1095, but that has fins on the front, next to the mesh screen door. The space above the Anthem is about the same height as below it, meaning "feet height". I don't generally run the system hard, but over time, heat may be a concern. If I end up shipping the D2 to Anthem, I will relocate the amp.
> 
> This D2 has never liked HDMI from the Verizon FIOS box, so I used components there with an optical connection for audio.
> 
> For now, I've eliminated use of video switching, going directly to the TV so we can use the system


1. Buy or borrow a different HDMI cable your first response sure sounds like a cable problem.

2. Using a fan, leave all the cabinet doors open while using the system

3. I would call Anthem C/S and discuss this with them


----------



## dmusoke

Is there a thread that discusses features one wants in an ideal or next generation AV Pre-Pro?


----------



## gerard1meehan

Greetings,

I was hoping that some of you could review the following and let me know you thoughts on where I am. 

Back in October I posted the following about my room set up and everyone was beyond helpful with their recommendations. Below is link to where the journey started

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...0v-arc1-tweaking-guide-1443.html#post28657153

I have been able to have the room measured and put up the appropriate room treatments. This improved things dramatically, however due to equipment issues I haven't been able to focus on buttoning this up as they say. 

If some of you could take time out to review my ARC charts It would be appreciated. I did not amend the targets that were "auto detected" as I felt it was a good starting point. I am very pleased with the sound of Movies and TV. Music is a little boomy but very little.

Anyway attached are my arc charts and targets generated along with some picks of the new treatments


----------



## gerard1meehan

gerard1meehan said:


> Greetings,
> 
> I was hoping that some of you could review the following and let me know you thoughts on where I am.
> 
> Back in October I posted the following about my room set up and everyone was beyond helpful with their recommendations. Below is link to where the journey started
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...0v-arc1-tweaking-guide-1443.html#post28657153
> 
> I have been able to have the room measured and put up the appropriate room treatments. This improved things dramatically, however due to equipment issues I haven't been able to focus on buttoning this up as they say.
> 
> If some of you could take time out to review my ARC charts It would be appreciated. I did not amend the targets that were "auto detected" as I felt it was a good starting point. I am very pleased with the sound of Movies and TV. Music is a little boomy but very little.
> 
> Anyway attached are my arc charts and targets generated along with some picks of the new treatments


The auto detect targets would have been helpful, sorry


----------



## gerard1meehan

gerard1meehan said:


> The auto detect targets would have been helpful, sorry


From our friends at Anthem/Paradigm


The left front response falls short by a small amount in the crossover region around 80 Hz, but this is unlikely to be of consequence because while the graph shows a worst-case 2 dB drop after correction relative to target, with the subwoofer playing the same material, and the right front to some extent, the in-room level difference will be very small.
Some alternatives are reducing room gain to 3 dB, recommended only if the existing setup sounds a little bass-rich, or changing crossover frequency from 60 Hz to 80 Hz, although I’m a little hesitant to recommend this in a system consisting of P series amps and S8s, especially since this is more for the sake of the graphs than audible results.
The deciding factor is whichever configuration sounds best. The graphs are very good, with the only issue being a minor one that doesn’t necessarily call for any form of adjustment.


Technical Advisor | Paradigm/Anthem Support Team


----------



## thestewman

gerard1meehan said:


> From our friends at Anthem/Paradigm
> 
> 
> The left front response falls short by a small amount in the crossover region around 80 Hz, but this is unlikely to be of consequence because while the graph shows a worst-case 2 dB drop after correction relative to target, with the subwoofer playing the same material, and the right front to some extent, the in-room level difference will be very small.
> Some alternatives are reducing room gain to 3 dB, recommended only if the existing setup sounds a little bass-rich, or changing crossover frequency from 60 Hz to 80 Hz, although I’m a little hesitant to recommend this in a system consisting of P series amps and S8s, especially since this is more for the sake of the graphs than audible results.
> The deciding factor is whichever configuration sounds best. The graphs are very good, with the only issue being a minor one that doesn’t necessarily call for any form of adjustment.
> 
> 
> Technical Advisor | Paradigm/Anthem Support Team


Very good you got someone at Anthem to respond to your charts. I agree with their assessment except.
You say it sounds a bit boomy or bass heavy.

I think it would be worth the effort to try this.

Raise the Left and Right front speaker lower cutoffs in the targets by 20Hz. 
Rerun your ARC calculations and then if it looks good upload the results to your unit. Sit back and listen to the results.
I noticed you have either a Sub 1 or 2 in your room. Your charts indicate it is easily handling your bass demands without any distortion or bass boomyness.

Hopefully the output of the open reel tape deck is going to a stereo input set as analog direct so you get the full enjoyment 
of the 2 track machine

Enjoy. Your room looks just like the sign at your entrance "Man Cave "


----------



## tranle

gerard1meehan said:


> From our friends at Anthem/Paradigm
> 
> 
> The left front response falls short by a small amount in the crossover region around 80 Hz, but this is unlikely to be of consequence because while the graph shows a worst-case 2 dB drop after correction relative to target, with the subwoofer playing the same material, and the right front to some extent, the in-room level difference will be very small....


I think that the problem with your front-left could be because it is at the same distance from the backwall and sidewall. You should try something like 2 feet from the backwall and 3 feet from the sidewall. Your right-front is good so the speaker can do better (unless it is broken).
If moving around a little bit does not help you could swap the left and right to see if it is the speaker or the placement.


----------



## MitchPope

The Beta FW 1.47f seems to have fixed my problems with handshaking (to a PRO-101FD) and I can now use my Darblet again!


----------



## gerard1meehan

gerard1meehan said:


> Greetings,
> 
> I was hoping that some of you could review the following and let me know you thoughts on where I am.
> 
> Back in October I posted the following about my room set up and everyone was beyond helpful with their recommendations. Below is link to where the journey started
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...0v-arc1-tweaking-guide-1443.html#post28657153
> 
> I have been able to have the room measured and put up the appropriate room treatments. This improved things dramatically, however due to equipment issues I haven't been able to focus on buttoning this up as they say.
> 
> If some of you could take time out to review my ARC charts It would be appreciated. I did not amend the targets that were "auto detected" as I felt it was a good starting point. I am very pleased with the sound of Movies and TV. Music is a little boomy but very little.
> 
> Anyway attached are my arc charts and targets generated along with some picks of the new treatments


Update,

Last night I tried Anthem’s first recommendation and set the room gain to 3 (was 3.9+). The sound was “hollow” on both music and movies, where I had started was much better. I tried 3.5 & 3.7 before returning to the starting point, as they were not and improvement. At that point while listing I lowered the sub level to see what that would achieve. In doing so I came a bit closer to what I was looking or listing for. So I went back into ARC and reset the sub to Auto (was set on flat). That did take out some of the base issues I was experiencing, but in my mind an outcome between the Flat and Auto would be ideal. 

This weekend I will try increasing the crossover settings in my fronts to see how that influences the sound. As tranle recommended I will work with the front left speaker placenta a little to see the results


Thanks Stew and tranle for your input. Any thoughts on what I attempted yesterday would be appreciate


And Stew, the Reel to Reel is out getting new heads, but it is hooked up via XLR and I have it set to Direct. Although if someone knows a crestron coded to switch between the dsp and direct I’m all ears


----------



## gerard1meehan

gerard1meehan said:


> Update,
> 
> Last night I tried Anthem’s first recommendation and set the room gain to 3 (was 3.9+). The sound was “hollow” on both music and movies, where I had started was much better. I tried 3.5 & 3.7 before returning to the starting point, as they were not and improvement. At that point while listing I lowered the sub level to see what that would achieve. In doing so I came a bit closer to what I was looking or listing for. So I went back into ARC and reset the sub to Auto (was set on flat). That did take out some of the base issues I was experiencing, but in my mind an outcome between the Flat and Auto would be ideal.
> 
> This weekend I will try increasing the crossover settings in my fronts to see how that influences the sound. As tranle recommended I will work with the front left speaker placenta a little to see the results
> 
> 
> Thanks Stew and tranle for your input. Any thoughts on what I attempted yesterday would be appreciate
> 
> 
> And Stew, the Reel to Reel is out getting new heads, but it is hooked up via XLR and I have it set to Direct. Although if someone knows a crestron coded to switch between the dsp and direct I’m all ears


Front left speaker placement, not Placenta.

now thats funny


----------



## tngiloy

gerard1meehan said:


> Front left speaker placement, not Placenta.
> 
> now thats funny



What brand of umbilical cords do you use? maybe that's causing the problem.


----------



## stanger89

gerard1meehan said:


> Last night I tried Anthem’s first recommendation and set the room gain to 3 (was 3.9+). The sound was “hollow” on both music and movies, where I had started was much better. I tried 3.5 & 3.7 before returning to the starting point, as they were not and improvement. At that point while listing I lowered the sub level to see what that would achieve. In doing so I came a bit closer to what I was looking or listing for. So I went back into ARC and reset the sub to Auto (was set on flat). That did take out some of the base issues I was experiencing, but in my mind an outcome between the Flat and Auto would be ideal.


I think you should be able to play with the SW High Pass Filter and Min EQ frequency to have that effect. In the Advanced Targets window.


----------



## gerard1meehan

stanger89 said:


> I think you should be able to play with the SW High Pass Filter and Min EQ frequency to have that effect. In the Advanced Targets window.


Not familiar with how to utilize those. The Manual does not go into it. Maybe you could point me to a post where these were discussed? 

Thanks


----------



## AVfile

^ have you tried eliminating the sub temporarily and set the main speakers to full range to see if you like the bass better on music?

You could also try without the Center speaker if you are using that for music.


----------



## dmusoke

^ Good test indeed!


Great theatre BTW


----------



## thestewman

AVfile said:


> ^ have you tried eliminating the sub altogether for music listening to make sure it is not the speakers that you simply don't like?





dmusoke said:


> ^ Good test indeed!
> 
> 
> Great theatre BTW


Should probably make little difference since music contains very little if any LFE.


----------



## dmusoke

True but his speakers can play down to 30Hz which many bass notes from Jazz, drums and Organ notes reside. The mains will not have the same heft as the subwoofer in the bass notes however...


----------



## tngiloy

gerard1meehan,
How do you listen to your music?? I'm not concerned about how many glasses of wine you have while listening, just _how many speakers are you using when listening to music?_
I have a 6.1 setupand use all speakers and subs for movies and sports. I prefer my music in stereo. Since my fronts are bookshelf's I include my subs and use 2.1 for music._ I do separate movie and music runs during my ARC readings._ ARC consistently sets my room gain and sub level for music 1-2 dB less and it sounds excellent. Plenty of punch for lfe in movies and smooth, tight bass for music.


With your fronts (look like S8's?) setting them to full range and doing a music run with just those 2 speakers (no sub) would be my suggestion. It takes a little longer to do the ARC run when you do both movie and music sweeps. In your case it would take 1/3 to 1/4 the time to do music compared to movie. I can't tell if you run 5.1 or 7.1 for movie. Well worth the little time it takes. 'N'-ing out speakers in a 'same as' run does not work as well as doing separate movie and music runs. In my experience it leaves the room gain the same and makes music bass boomy.


If you do listen to your music in stereo (or even in Anthem Logic Music) do a separate ARC music run for just the speakers you're using. It will take a little extra time, but it looks like you are willing to spend the time (and bucks) to get it right. I second dmusoke's Great theatre BTW.


Tom


----------



## gerard1meehan

Unfortunately I did not have the opportunity to work on my left speaker placement or any of the other items I was going to try this weekend to resolve my “Boomy or Base heavy issues” . Other responsibilities cropped up.

But late Friday while watching a movie it dawned on me that I had changed the distance setting of my sub after I ran and uploaded ARC. I had changed the position of my sub and my front right speaker and neglected to change the distances in the processor prior to running. When I reviewed the settings after uploading arc I changed the distance from 13.5 to 11.5.

So I just put it back to the 13.5 and the base issue was gone. I do have to re-measure the distances and I will re-measure ARC.. But with any luck this is it. As of right now it sounds the best it ever has

Will advise




As for How do I listen to music. Best way to state it would be as the media I’m listing to was intended to be heard. I do not eliminate any of my speakers for my Music Arc calculations. If the track I am listing to was mastered in Stereo I listen to it in Stereo. If it’s 5.1 or 3.1, or even 4.1 I do the same

On analog inputs as in my Turntable our Reel to reel I swap between Analogue direct and DSP


----------



## stanger89

gerard1meehan said:


> Unfortunately I did not have the opportunity to work on my left speaker placement or any of the other items I was going to try this weekend to resolve my “Boomy or Base heavy issues” . Other responsibilities cropped up.
> 
> But late Friday while watching a movie it dawned on me that I had changed the distance setting of my sub after I ran and uploaded ARC. I had changed the position of my sub and my front right speaker and neglected to change the distances in the processor prior to running. When I reviewed the settings after uploading arc I changed the distance from 13.5 to 11.5.
> 
> So I just put it back to the 13.5 and the base issue was gone. I do have to re-measure the distances and I will re-measure ARC.. But with any luck this is it. As of right now it sounds the best it ever has


Technically since the "room" changed (you moved speakers, so it will sound different) then you should have to re-measure with ARC. If you had just goofed up the distance then you wouldn't have to remeasure.

That said, boomy base that depends on distance settings sounds like a phase matching issue, you might want to try making sure you've got your sub/mains in phase and then re-run ARC. I think there are instructions in this thread on how to set phase.


----------



## tngiloy

gerard1meehan said:


> Unfortunately I did not have the opportunity to work on my left speaker placement or any of the other items I was going to try this weekend to resolve my “Boomy or Base heavy issues” . Other responsibilities cropped up.
> 
> But late Friday while watching a movie it dawned on me that I had changed the distance setting of my sub after I ran and uploaded ARC. I had changed the position of my sub and my front right speaker and neglected to change the distances in the processor prior to running. When I reviewed the settings after uploading arc I changed the distance from 13.5 to 11.5.
> 
> So I just put it back to the 13.5 and the base issue was gone. I do have to re-measure the distances and I will re-measure ARC.. But with any luck this is it. As of right now it sounds the best it ever has
> 
> Will advise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for How do I listen to music. Best way to state it would be as the media I’m listing to was intended to be heard. I do not eliminate any of my speakers for my Music Arc calculations. If the track I am listing to was mastered in Stereo I listen to it in Stereo. If it’s 5.1 or 3.1, or even 4.1 I do the same
> 
> On analog inputs as in my Turntable our Reel to reel I swap between Analogue direct and DSP


 
Is the position of the speakers *now* the same as they were when you ran ARC?? It was not clear to me.
If they are, you do NOT need to re-run ARC. Speaker distance can be put in before or after the ARC run. They just need to be put in correctly. A tape measure and a friend are all that are needed.
As far as sub distance you may want to read the link in dmusoke's signature on how to best set sub distance.
If you use his technique you will need an SPL meter. 


If the speaker placement has changed and you do need to re-run ARC then you may want to consider doing a separate movie/music runs IF you listen to the majority of your music in stereo. I have a few SACD's and DVD-A's that are encoded in 5.1 that I play on my oppo 103D in surround using my ARC movie configuration. DSOTM for instance. But I listen to 99.5% of my music in stereo, so I set up a separate music configuration for 2.1 in ARC. I think it works better than playing stereo thru a 5.1/7.1 ARC configuration, since it is specific to the speakers being used. Not drastically better, but noticeably better. My 2 cents.


Tom


----------



## gerard1meehan

The speakers were moved prior to ARC measurements. I changed the distance in the processors menu after I ran and uploaded ARC.

But I want to tweak my Left front so I'll measure the distances again and re-run the full ARC process. 

Appreciate everyone taking time to help out

thanks


----------



## mothaselin

I have a problem. This has just happened. My D2v is stuck in pcm and 2 channel. On all devices that I try to play. Any suggestions or is the processor fried?


----------



## gerard1meehan

mothaselin said:


> I have a problem. This has just happened. My D2v is stuck in pcm and 2 channel. On all devices that I try to play. Any suggestions or is the processor fried?


have you tried loading factory defaults?


----------



## mothaselin

I guess I am going to try that when I get back from work.


----------



## barhoram

D2V question...

I recently upgraded from a D2 to a D2V. Blu Ray player is a Oppo 103. With the change, I now bit-stream from the Oppo to the D2V. I've watched about 5 movies. Twice during playback, the sound went completely silent. When I checked, it was showing PCM instead of DTS MA or TruHD...and no sound at all. Switching to a different input, then back, fixed the issue. Fist time it happened, I thought I may have had a dirty disk. The second time it happened was a networked .mkv file--so I know it's not a disk problem. Any ideas...I recall hearing some possible issues with dropouts while bitstreaming...but assumed those had all been fixed by now. Firmware on both should be most up to date.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Sounds like audio got muted due to a failure of the periodic Copy Protection check which happens during playback. This is a type of HDMI failure.

Check your HDMI cables. It may be as simple as the plugs are not fully inserted in the sockets. HDMI is only friction fit, and it just takes a small shift of plug in socket to screw things up. Check that nothing (e.g., cable weight) is tugging on the plugs. New cables may still have kinks in them causing such tugging. Unplug and replug each end.

The D2v (unlike the D2) supports Deep Color video signals. If you have that turned on in the OPPO that puts more bandwidth on the HDMI cable. If your HDMI cables are marginal for their length that too can cause HDMI issues. Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so the problem could be the cables on either side of the D2v.
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

barhoram said:


> D2V question...
> 
> I recently upgraded from a D2 to a D2V. Blu Ray player is a Oppo 103. With the change, I now bit-stream from the Oppo to the D2V. I've watched about 5 movies. Twice during playback, the sound went completely silent. When I checked, it was showing PCM instead of DTS MA or TruHD...and no sound at all. Switching to a different input, then back, fixed the issue. Fist time it happened, I thought I may have had a dirty disk. The second time it happened was a networked .mkv file--so I know it's not a disk problem. Any ideas...I recall hearing some possible issues with dropouts while bitstreaming...but assumed those had all been fixed by now. Firmware on both should be most up to date.


Networked MKV file ? That can be problematic for several reasons.

Your network cannot handle the hi bitrate transfer of lossless audio
Your streaming device may have problems handling the hi bitrate audio
The ripped MKV file you have may not be perfect and causes the dropouts
Since it also happens with the OPPO playing discs Bob's response would be very appropriate
Why not also try not using bitstream on a disc causing the audio problem and let the OPPO do the decoding and see if that cures the problem.


----------



## jviggi

*D2 not upgraded and 3D*

I have not posted here in a few years so I may be in the wrong forum. Sorry!
I have an Anthem D2 that has not been upgraded for 3D. I am about to receive a new Samsung 65" UHD TV that is 3D capable.My source for the 3D will be a PS3.I plan to run the HDMI output from the PS3 directly to one of the TV inputs. That leaves a sound issue. If I run the optical out of the PS3 into a D2 optical input, will the D2 play HQ audio while the TV is streaming a 3D movie?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Optical and Coax (S/PDif connections) can not carry the lossless, high bit-rate audio formats found on Blu-ray discs: Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA. Not even with the PS3 decoding those to LPCM for you. Instead you will get the "compatibility" track (always present on Blu-ray discs) which is traditional, lossy DD or DTS as found on SD-DVDs.

Your best bet is to switch to a 3D-capable player with two HDMI outputs, so you can run one to the TV for 3D video and the other to the D2 for high bit-rate LPCM audio. For example the OPPO players.
--Bob


----------



## jviggi

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Optical and Coax (S/PDif connections) can not carry the lossless, high bit-rate audio formats found on Blu-ray discs: Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA. Not even with the PS3 decoding those to LPCM for you. Instead you will get the "compatibility" track (always present on Blu-ray discs) which is traditional, lossy DD or DTS as found on SD-DVDs.
> 
> Your best bet is to switch to a 3D-capable player with two HDMI outputs, so you can run one to the TV for 3D video and the other to the D2 for high bit-rate LPCM audio. For example the OPPO players.
> --Bob


Bob,
Thanks for your quick answer. You were a huge help when I got my D2 a few years ago.I know the D2 will not process 3D but it will still process the audio?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The original D2 does not accept bitstream input of TrueHD or DTS-HD MA. You need a player that converts those to LPCM. 

The newer D2v (with or without the 3D upgrade) does accept Bitstream input for those as well as LPCM. It can also receive 7.1 input on HDMI, rather than the 5.1 limit of the original model. 

Any audio the Anthem receives will of course be processed (e.g., ARC) even though the Anthem is being bypassed for video. Note that you won't see on screen info from the Anthem such as Volume changes. 
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

jviggi said:


> Bob,
> Thanks for your quick answer. You were a huge help when I got my D2 a few years ago.I know the D2 will not process 3D but it will still process the audio?


You could also try this out. It is a reasonable way to get 3D with Lossless audio

Mini HDMI splitter with 3D support


Run one HDMI out to your display for the 3D video
Run the second HDMI out to the D2 for the lossless audio.
Set the D2 source input to receive the digital audio and no video
Make sure your PS3 is sending LPCM to the D2 as Bob P explained the D2 cannot handle lossless bitstream audio. but can stream LPCM
With so few good quality 3D videos available it would not be worth the investment for a new 3D capable BD player at this time.
Your purchase of a UHD display means you should be watching for a new UHD 4K BD player which will soon be coming to the market place.
I think you might find 4K more exciting than 3D.
Currently you can view the 4K on Netflix, Amazon and You Tube or by purchasing a Sony 4K FMP-X10 player.


----------



## jviggi

thestewman said:


> You could also try this out. It is a reasonable way to get 3D with Lossless audio
> 
> Mini HDMI splitter with 3D support
> 
> 
> Run one HDMI out to your display for the 3D video
> Run the second HDMI out to the D2 for the lossless audio.
> Set the D2 source input to receive the digital audio and no video
> Make sure your PS3 is sending LPCM to the D2 as Bob P explained the D2 cannot handle lossless bitstream audio. but can stream LPCM
> With so few good quality 3D videos available it would not be worth the investment for a new 3D capable BD player at this time.
> Your purchase of a UHD display means you should be watching for a new UHD 4K BD player which will soon be coming to the market place.
> I think you might find 4K more exciting than 3D.
> Currently you can view the 4K on Netflix, Amazon and You Tube or by purchasing a Sony 4K FMP-X10 player.


Thanks a lot. I could not open the link. What mini HDMI splitter is it? There are several on Amazon.


----------



## Shrike645

I didn't think the PS3 could do 3D and lossless audio.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Good point. I seem to recall there was such a limitation in the PS3, but I've not been tracking the PS3 for a while, so I don't know if that was just temporary -- and fixed by now.
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

jviggi said:


> Thanks a lot. I could not open the link. What mini HDMI splitter is it? There are several on Amazon.



Mini HDMI splitter with 3D support

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011306&p_id=8204&seq=1&format=2

Its cheaper at Monoprice though Amazon has the same product available from the same source

Monoprice product #8204


----------



## jviggi

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Good point. I seem to recall there was such a limitation in the PS3, but I've not been tracking the PS3 for a while, so I don't know if that was just temporary -- and fixed by now.
> --Bob


Thanks for all of your help. I bit the bullet and bought the OPPO. It is the best solution for now and solves other issues. It will replace my old Panasonic RP91 which I bought a long time ago to play DVDA. Yes the PS3 can play 3D with a fix a couple of years ago.I will watch how the UHD 4K Blu-rays play out. There is a lot of material that you can stream and Samsung sells a HD with 10 movies and 20 documentaries in 4K. Also you can add more. 
So the OPPO processes 3D and I don't need the PS3 to do it.It makes life a lot simpler.
Thanks to you for helping me. I am not the techi that I used to be!


----------



## FredHooper

*Lost HDMI audio*

I'm trying to have the audio included with the D2's HDMI output to the TV. The change that broke it was installation of a Remedy Reclocker. Before, there was a component feed from the Tivo to the D2's TV1 input, with an optical link for the sound to the TV1 input. I had a separate digital coax input for ripped CD's from a hard drive to the Aux input. After, both of these were inputs to the reclocker, with digital coax to the D2's TV1 input. I manually switch the sound between the Tivo and the CD's.

Before, the sound was included in the HDMI from the D2 to the TV; now, it's not. My wife strongly prefers to use only the Tivo remote, which controls the TV volume; now, she's stuck with using two. She'd like that part back the way it was; I'm unwilling to give up the reclocker -- particularly for the Tivo. Can someone suggest how to get the audio back into the HDMI output?

(It occurs to me that I could run component plus audio from the D2 to the TV, but I'd rather keep the simplicity of HDMI if I can.)


----------



## thestewman

FredHooper said:


> I'm trying to have the audio included with the D2's HDMI output to the TV. The change that broke it was installation of a Remedy Reclocker. Before, there was a component feed from the Tivo to the D2's TV1 input, with an optical link for the sound to the TV1 input. I had a separate digital coax input for ripped CD's from a hard drive to the Aux input. After, both of these were inputs to the reclocker, with digital coax to the D2's TV1 input. I manually switch the sound between the Tivo and the CD's.
> 
> Before, the sound was included in the HDMI from the D2 to the TV; now, it's not. My wife strongly prefers to use only the Tivo remote, which controls the TV volume; now, she's stuck with using two. She'd like that part back the way it was; I'm unwilling to give up the reclocker -- particularly for the Tivo. Can someone suggest how to get the audio back into the HDMI output?
> 
> (It occurs to me that I could run component plus audio from the D2 to the TV, but I'd rather keep the simplicity of HDMI if I can.)


I know I get in trouble for being outspoken sometimes or maybe you will think I do not know what I am talking about.
But something is not right here. What good is the Remedy Reclocker without a HiRez audio signal going to a good DAC ?
You complicated your system without any benefit


----------



## FredHooper

I think the D2 is a pretty good DAC; combined with ripped CD's, downloaded hi rez files and ARC it sounds good to me. Also, the Remedy Reclocker provides the most benefit (and is most needed) with lower quality sources -- TV through the Tivo, it moves the audio quality from OK to good.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

This should work. What's the audio output format from the reclocker?

Odds are there is a simple setup error here. 

Start by seeing if audio from the FM Tuner is making it to the TV. If not, then check your settings in the TV to make sure its internal speakers are not disabled or muted. Note that you don't want audio from both the TV speakers and your main speakers as the timing likely won't be the same.
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

*power outage*

Hi
I recently upgraded from a AVM50v 3D to a D2v 3d.(very happy with it too). An interesting happened, I hadn't listened to my system in 4 days. Went down to play it and my Furman SPR-20i previously tripped off. I went to set the time on Anthem and it DIDNT lose time. I heard there is a battery in the processor. Therefore did the battery kick-in? And does that mean the power wasnt disrupted? On the AVM50v 3d I had a couple of power outages and it affected the time. Which makes me curious. 

Thanks for any replies,

Rob


----------



## FredHooper

Bob Pariseau said:


> This should work. What's the audio output format from the reclocker?
> 
> Odds are there is a simple setup error here.
> 
> Start by seeing if audio from the FM Tuner is making it to the TV. If not, then check your settings in the TV to make sure its internal speakers are not disabled or muted. Note that you don't want audio from both the TV speakers and your main speakers as the timing likely won't be the same.
> --Bob


My understanding is that the reclocker's output is just a reclocked input; the music comes from an Auraliti PK1000, fed with FLAC files, the Tivo is set for PCM audio output. Another option that occurred to me after rereading the reclocker documentation is adding an optical output from it as it supports multiple, individually buffered outputs. This would mimic the inputs that were there before the change, just reclocked.

We're not using FM from the D2; the HDMI direct from the Tivo to the TV *does* have sound, so the TV's sound is operating. Before, we had the opportunity of simultaneous audio from both the TV and the D2 and just turned down whichever we didn't want at the time.

I tried rebooting the D2, with save setting/restore default/restore settings. There was no change.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RobDec,
There is a clock battery. It's possible that had failed in your prior unit.
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Thanks Bob

Rob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

RobDec said:


> On the AVM50v 3d I had a couple of power outages and it affected the time.


D series has clock backup battery (always did), AVM doesn't (never did).


----------



## RobDec

Thanks Nick
That's good to know
Rob


----------



## Emosewa09

HELP NEEDED! I would greatly appreciate any input and help. I own an Anthem Statement D2V 3D which is two years old. Last night everything worked fine. When I turned it on today, most of the video inputs don't work. Between last night and tonight, I did absolutely NOTHING with the system and the power to the Anthem was off. 

Video is dead on all sources except for:

(1) Three days ago, I installed a Roku 3 on TV1. It worked fine. Now, the menu comes up, but when I click on any source, it says "HDCP unauthorised. Content disabled." It says this on ANY Roku source. 

(2) An Xbox One works fine and is connected via HDMI to TV2. 

(3) A LivNAS media center that plays on a Dune player via HDMI works fine. It is on TV4.

What does not work --

(4) This is not related to HDMI. I have two Tivos connected via component video and no HDMI is plugged in to them at all. Video is dead on both. The screen is dark and blank on both Tivos using component video. They are connected to SAT 1 & 2.

(5) All other video sources do not work. That includes an Oppo on DVD1, a Control4 controller on DVD3, a Magnavox DVD-R on VCR, a Toshiba DVD-R on TAPE, and a Sony DVD on CD. 

I turned off the power and unplugged the Anthem. No difference. I unplugged the HDMI out and plugged it back in. No difference. 

Audio works on the above, but no video.

I haven't tried wiping everything out and returning to factory defaults, but I can do that and start over entirely -- if that would work. But I can't imagine that is the issue with the inconsistent and weird behavior described above.

What would cause some HDMI sources to work, but not others? What would kill component video as well? What would do this on TV1 with an "unauthorized HDCP" message, but other components on TV2 and TV4 work OK. And both SAT connections fail with component, as does the video on VCR and TAPE.

Any ideas or suggestions? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!!


----------



## thestewman

This is apparently a bug with the Roku 3 with their current firmware.
The HDCP signal is turned on in your display and kills all the video
I do not have a Roku so it is difficult to guide you. 
Try removing the Roku from your system completely.
If this helps go from there.


----------



## Emosewa09

thestewman said:


> This is apparently a bug with the Roku 3 with their current firmware.
> The HDCP signal is turned on in your display and kills all the video
> I do not have a Roku so it is difficult to guide you.
> Try removing the Roku from your system completely.
> If this helps go from there.


Thanks very much! Unplugging the Roku alone didn't resolve it. So I unplugged EVERYTHING and then restored the power but left the Roku out of the system. That worked!

One question -- why were the Tivos affected, as they are connected via component, NOT HDMI, and do not use an HDCP signal?

On Roku -- very unfortunate, as I thought it is one of the best devices I have seen in years for only $70. Anyone know of any threads that report on the problem, and thus when it will be solved?


----------



## thestewman

Emosewa09 said:


> Thanks very much! Unplugging the Roku alone didn't resolve it. So I unplugged EVERYTHING and then restored the power but left the Roku out of the system. That worked!
> 
> One question -- why were the Tivos affected, as they are connected via component, NOT HDMI, and do not use an HDCP signal?
> 
> On Roku -- very unfortunate, as I thought it is one of the best devices I have seen in years for only $70. Anyone know of any threads that report on the problem, and thus when it will be solved?


Apparently some firmware problem in the Roku3 triggers the HDCP to deny the video signal.
Once triggered your display is turned off. You might try unplugging the component cables from the Tivos and see if that is the trigger.
You also might try changing the resolution in the Roku from 1080 to 720 and then back. Then reset it if it helps.
Maybe also try connecting the Roku3 alone direct to your display and then if it is working, still bypassing the Anthem D2v, adding one component at a time to find which unit might be triggering the Roku to send the HDCP signal.
I just checked and there are numerous users with problems. I suggest you find a Roku users forum and also contact the Roku support people.
Definitely not a problem with the Anthem D2v 3D


----------



## dmusoke

This is a general question that affects all pre-pros including the Anthem units...


Why do they have such large output voltages, in some cases as large as 20 volts or more when most amps (if not all) deliver full power at 2vrms or less? The resistance and capacitance of long XLR and RCA interconnects are so low that losses would be extremely low...


----------



## goatwuss

Hi guys,

I'm entering this thread a bit late... 

I have a D2 and ARC and I'm trying to get the best results with it. I'm trying to optimize just a single listening position for 2 channel audio, right dead center between the speakers.

How many microphone measurements should I use, and where should I be placing the mic to get the best results for this case?


----------



## tngiloy

goatwuss said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm entering this thread a bit late...
> 
> I have a D2 and ARC and I'm trying to get the best results with it. I'm trying to optimize just a single listening position for 2 channel audio, right dead center between the speakers.
> 
> How many microphone measurements should I use, and where should I be placing the mic to get the best results for this case?


 
goatwuss,
My situation is similar to yours in that I listen to music in 2 channel (2.1 actually since I have fairly small bookshelf fronts) and my seat is well centered between my fronts. I also watch movies in 6.1 so I run separate movie and music ARC runs to get the most out of ARC for both speaker configurations. So I will give you my advice. Please listen to others that may answer your post as they may give suggestions that you may want to use.


Let me also say that I have had ARC since it first came out. I have tried things that work well and things that did not.
My first inclination when I first ran ARC and had basically one main seating position, was to closely cluster five positions within inches of the MLP (main listening position). DO NOT DO THIS. IT DOES NOT WORK AS WELLAS YOU WOULD THINK.


First let me give you a few basic ARC suggestions/guidelines:
Mic should be placed at ear level and pointed straight up towards the ceiling and at least a foot in front of reflecting surfaces.
The first mic position needs to be at the MLP. Speaker levels are set at the MLP.
_Speaker distances are NOT set by ARC you must enter these_. Use a tape measure (and a friend if necessary). The speaker distances can be entered before of after ARC, but they must be entered by you.
The furniture should be in the same position as it is during your listening. If you sit in a recliner and have it reclined during listening then position it that way during ARC runs.
Vary the positions by at least 18''-24'' for each sweep.


The number of sweeps (different mic positions) you run depend a lot on the size of the room. My room is fairly small for a HT-- 11'w x 17'd x 8'h. Five positions is plenty for me. I set the positions @2-2.5ft apart in an infield array. The MLP is the pitcher's mound, #2-#5 are first base, second base, third base and home plate.
If you have a HT like the ones in Sound&Vision with multiple raised rows, then you may want to go up to the max of 9 positions. You would also want to set the positions further apart to accommodate the seats used and cover more of the room. Again, the first position needs to be the MLP.


If you use your D2 for both movies and music and use different speaker configurations for each, please consider running separate movie and music runs in ARC.


Also if you listen in stereo (or 2.1) you may want to try listening both with and without ARC enabled. Some here prefer to listen in a pure stereo mode over ARC. Since I need my subs because I use fairly small bookshelves I much prefer with ARC. Some with full range fronts prefer pure stereo without ARC. The choice is yours, but you should try and compare the options.


Check back and post your graphs and results and posters here can offer more help.


Good luck,
Tom


----------



## jviggi

*Anthem D2 Help with audio at boot*

Audio does not always work when the Anthem D2 (non 3D) is turned on. Turning the D2 off and on several times generally starts the audio but that is hit and miss and a pain.I am considering Dr HDMI but I don't know where to put it.The video always comes on at boot.
Here is my setup:
Verizon Fios output HDMI out to OPPO BP 103 input rear
OPPO HDMI out #1 to 65 " Samsung 4K TV
OPPO HDMI out #2 to Anthem D2 HDMI input # 1
I am only using the D2 to process the audio and the OPPO to process the video. Both the OPPO and the Samsung TV upscale to near 4K.
It would seem to me that it should go between the OPPO and the D2. Is that correct?


----------



## thestewman

jviggi said:


> Audio does not always work when the Anthem D2 (non 3D) is turned on. Turning the D2 off and on several times generally starts the audio but that is hit and miss and a pain.I am considering Dr HDMI but I don't know where to put it.The video always comes on at boot.
> Here is my setup:
> Verizon Fios output HDMI out to OPPO BP 103 input rear
> OPPO HDMI out #1 to 65 " Samsung 4K TV
> OPPO HDMI out #2 to Anthem D2 HDMI input # 1
> I am only using the D2 to process the audio and the OPPO to process the video. Both the OPPO and the Samsung TV upscale to near 4K.
> It would seem to me that it should go between the OPPO and the D2. Is that correct?


Suggestion:

Why bother passing the Verizon Fios video to the Oppo when your Samsung has excellent upscaling to 4K.You are double processing the video for no extra benefit
Try using HDMI from the Verizon Fios directly to the D2 and then to your Samsung
Use the OPPO for disk and audio file playback directly to the D2 or split the video and audio as you do now but not the Fios video


----------



## RobDec

Hello
I have a stupid question. When using THX. After the THX movie I hit stop on my Oppo. The front panel will display either 2.0 Games THX, or Prologic II +THX or PCM Prologic II mov, and once AL Music. Is this normal to have 4 different audio formats to flash on the front panel? Im not saying all 4 formats at once or 1 right after each other. After each movie I get 1 of the 4. I was under the impression just 1 format will come across the front panel for THX. For instance just Prologic II + THX for every movie. The thx movies were 5.1 ultra
Forgive my stupid question.

Rob


----------



## dmusoke

thestewman said:


> Suggestion:
> 
> Why bother passing the Verizon Fios video to the Oppo when your Samsung has excellent upscaling to 4K.You are double processing the video for no extra benefit
> Try using HDMI from the Verizon Fios directly to the D2 and then to your Samsung
> Use the OPPO for disk and audio file playback directly to the D2 or split the video and audio as you do now but not the Fios video


Since the Oppo is an excellent scaler for cable programs, he can have the Oppo upscale to 4K directly and feed that into the Samsung. Then HDMI2 output into the D2.


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## thestewman

dmusoke said:


> Since the Oppo is an excellent scaler for cable programs, he can have the Oppo upscale to 4K directly and feed that into the Samsung. Then HDMI2 output into the D2.


I understand. But apparently there is a HDMI handshake issue. The Samsung has one of the best 4k upscalers in the industry.
It is not necessary to upscale it more than once and maybe bypass the OPPO HDMI handshake issue
I do not have Verizon Fios HDMI only Comcast cable which is 1080i.
I see no difference if I bypass the OPPO, or my D2v , and go directly to the Sony 4k and the display upscales to 4K.
Again it was only a suggestion to get around the HDMI handshake issue.
It is worth a try


----------



## AVfile

dmusoke said:


> This is a general question that affects all pre-pros including the Anthem units...
> 
> 
> Why do they have such large output voltages, in some cases as large as 20 volts or more when most amps (if not all) deliver full power at 2vrms or less? The resistance and capacitance of long XLR and RCA interconnects are so low that losses would be extremely low...



I don't believe they all deliver full power at only 2 volts. If you plug your CD player directly into your power amp it will be "loud" but not the loudest possible sound. 

2v single-ended (or 4v balanced) is just standard "line level" which you should get with the volume control at 0 dB playing a test tone recorded at a standard "reference level". Remember that recordings can contain additional "headroom" and a preamp can deliver additional gain beyond that, so that's where the extra voltage can come in. I believe the AVM/D2 goes to +10 dB on the volume control.


----------



## dmusoke

Reading up on the input sensitivity specs of most power amplifiers one see that number is mostly 2 volts or less. My Sunfire seven channel 400W/Channel amplifier states a sensitivity of 2v rca and 0.95V balanced.


Have you tried playing a 2Vrms sine wave into your power amp inputs? Chances are your ears will not like it for long...


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## dmusoke

thestewman said:


> I understand. But apparently there is a HDMI handshake issue. The Samsung has one of the best 4k upscalers in the industry.
> It is not necessary to upscale it more than once and maybe bypass the OPPO HDMI handshake issue
> I do not have Verizon Fios HDMI only Comcast cable which is 1080i.
> I see no difference if I bypass the OPPO, or my D2v , and go directly to the Sony 4k and the display upscales to 4K.
> Again it was only a suggestion to get around the HDMI handshake issue.
> It is worth a try


I agree ...to minize HDMI handshakes you need to go direct like you suggested.


----------



## jviggi

dmusoke said:


> I agree ...to minize HDMI handshakes you need to go direct like you suggested.


Thank you guys for your help. I will try tomorrow.


----------



## thestewman

dmusoke said:


> Reading up on the input sensitivity specs of most power amplifiers one see that number is mostly 2 volts or less. My Sunfire seven channel 400W/Channel amplifier states a sensitivity of 2v rca and 0.95V balanced.
> 
> 
> Have you tried playing a 2Vrms sine wave into your power amp inputs? Chances are your ears will not like it for long...


The D2v specs only say Rated Output 2.0 vrms, 

Max at RCA 6.3 vrms and Balanced 12.6vrms not 20 vrms


----------



## dmusoke

The original 20V max output spec was a general one for pre-pros / preamps in general. But the question still remains as to why it has to be that high (12.6vrms for the D2 for example) when the required voltage for full-power for the power-amps they feed into is 2V or less for most (if not all) consumer power amps.


----------



## leeshanok

Is anyone experiencing dimmed pixels on their D2/D2v display? I have a D2 and some of the pixels in the letters/characters are not as bright as the rest. Is there any fix for this aside from buying a new unit? Interestingly I have an older D1 and the display still looks as if it was still new.


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## dmusoke

In my situation, I have the case of the flashing blue lights which blink rapidly after many fast forwards or reverses or program skips from my cable box or Oppo player. Pressing any button on the remote stops it....until the next FF/FR event.


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## The Bogg

Anyone try contacting Anthem tech support (by email) lately? I sent out an email (supportatanthemavdotcom) a few months ago and didn't hear anything back. I called them shortly afterwards and my minor questions were answered. This week I was actually looking for some support for my aging D1-hd but no reply to an email. Back in the day I knew that either Nick, Andrew, or Frank would reply to my emails fairly quickly. I did get the generic email back from Anthem saying they received my email...


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## jviggi

jviggi said:


> Thank you guys for your help. I will try tomorrow.


One more issue for all of you real smart guys. The Samsung TV has the Audio Return Channel(arc) but I don't think my D2 (non 3D) accepts ARC.I have an optical cable from the TV to the OPT input #1 on the Anthem. When I watch YouTube or USB movies on the TV the audio is fine going through the D2. When I stream Amazon on the TV there is no sound coming from the A/V system.There is sound from the TV speakers so I know sound is there but it will not get processed through the Anthem.It only affects Amazon.I have tried to set the TV output to bitstream or PCM but neither one works. Is there something weird with Amazon streaming or Samsung?


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## bigdaddy999

bigdaddy999 said:


> I suppose heat is possible, but the problem is erratic. It can happen pretty quickly after turning on the system (5 minutes).
> 
> After the power reset failed to change things, I tried more cable/port combos and generally, it still cut out the video. BUT, the ROKU 3 ran continuously for nearly 2 hours with no drops. So I took the same HDMI cable from the ROKU and used it on the FIOS DVR box (same inputs, everything) and the image failed to display. I then returned that cable to the ROKU and the image displayed, then dropped immediately. I don't get it.
> 
> The Anthem is in a 3-bay Salamander cabinet which is open to the left (center bay/center speaker) and rear and has a mesh door on the front. It's on the upper shelf. Below it is a Rotel RMB-1095, but that has fins on the front, next to the mesh screen door. The space above the Anthem is about the same height as below it, meaning "feet height". I don't generally run the system hard, but over time, heat may be a concern. If I end up shipping the D2 to Anthem, I will relocate the amp.
> 
> This D2 has never liked HDMI from the Verizon FIOS box, so I used components there with an optical connection for audio.
> 
> For now, I've eliminated use of video switching, going directly to the TV so we can use the system





bigdaddy999 said:


> Hi folks. I have an Anthem D2 which has started having some issues.
> 
> The video drops out periodically and stays out until the Anthem is rebooted. This happens on component and HDMI connections from the FIOS cable box (Motorola DVR or non-DVR both the same). Sound does not drop.
> 
> Curiously, an HDMI connection from a ROKU 3 to the D2 does NOT drop out nearly as much, taking over an hour. I'm not convinced it's heat-related, but it is possible.
> 
> I have also swapped the cable box, and have the same result. So the issue is with the Anthem, it seems
> 
> Input Output to TV Issue
> HDMI HDMI video dropout
> Component HDMI video dropout
> Component component video dropout
> 
> Is this a symptom of a dying video board? This will be the second repair on this beast (the first for HDMI input ports).
> 
> Anything else to try before contacting Anthem?
> Thanks.


UPDATE: I spoke with Anthem and they are thinking this may be a video board power supply issue. I re-routed all video around the D2 and the images are fine going direct to the TV on any variety of cables. And it's been working for a while before this, so something has changed to make the video flaky. I'm also getting sound dropouts for about 1/2 second periodically. Less so, now that the video is not routed through the D2, but it still happens. I'm going to send it in for repair (sigh).


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## jviggi

dmusoke said:


> I agree ...to minize HDMI handshakes you need to go direct like you suggested.


The Anthem must not like the handshake with the new Samsung smart TV. I only have Verizon going to the HDMI #1 of the D2 and out to the TV. The video always comes on but the audio does not work at all.I have tried to turn off and turn on each in a different sequence and it is always the same;No Audio. This has turned an exciting time of purchasing a 65" 4K UHD TV into a disaster.It is a good thing the TV has speakers or it would just be a picture on the wall.
I don't think there is anything left to do except Dr HDMI. Would it go between the Verizon box and the Anthem or between the Samsung TV and the Anthem. I am not sure how it works or if it makes a difference.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The only other thing to do is to replace the Anthem!


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## jviggi

jviggi said:


> The Anthem must not like the handshake with the new Samsung smart TV. I only have Verizon going to the HDMI #1 of the D2 and out to the TV. The video always comes on but the audio does not work at all.I have tried to turn off and turn on each in a different sequence and it is always the same;No Audio. This has turned an exciting time of purchasing a 65" 4K UHD TV into a disaster.It is a good thing the TV has speakers or it would just be a picture on the wall.
> I don't think there is anything left to do except Dr HDMI. Would it go between the Verizon box and the Anthem or between the Samsung TV and the Anthem. I am not sure how it works or if it makes a difference.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> The only other thing to do is to replace the Anthem!


Connected it back with the OPPO to the original configuration and now it works (at least for 1 time). Sorry guy's, I won't bother you with my frustrations.


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## thestewman

jviggi said:


> Connected it back with the OPPO to the original configuration and now it works (at least for 1 time). Sorry guy's, I won't bother you with my frustrations.


Are you sure you have the Source setup correctly ?

It might pay to Double check

Scaler Input (C) should be the HDMI # with the video
Audio In (Line G) should be Dig HDMI 

And if your display is like any other you need to change the audio to an external connection.to turn off the displays audio

Like stated before the Roku 3 has software problems


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## thestewman

bigdaddy999 said:


> UPDATE: I spoke with Anthem and they are thinking this may be a video board power supply issue. I re-routed all video around the D2 and the images are fine going direct to the TV on any variety of cables. And it's been working for a while before this, so something has changed to make the video flaky. I'm also getting sound dropouts for about 1/2 second periodically. Less so, now that the video is not routed through the D2, but it still happens. I'm going to send it in for repair (sigh).


It is hard to interpret what you are stating as some statements appear contradictory.
The Roku if a Roku 3 has known software problems. Check their user forum.

If you experience dropouts, audio or video when bypassing the Anthem maybe the Verizon box has problems.


----------



## bigdaddy999

thestewman said:


> It is hard to interpret what you are stating as some statements appear contradictory.
> The Roku if a Roku 3 has known software problems. Check their user forum.
> 
> If you experience dropouts, audio or video when bypassing the Anthem maybe the Verizon box has problems.


Thanks. The video dropout only occurs when video goes thru the Anthem D2. Verizon box and Roku inputs both do this. Audio dropouts continue whether the video is routed through the D2 or not. Less on the Roku, but definitely on the Verizon. So at least the Video is related to the D2.

I will go read about Roku 3 (which is what I have) issues. perhaps both it and the Verizon box suffer from this. I had no problems using a Panasonic Blu-ray recently, and also seemed OK for the NAD DVD/CD player for audio. So maybe that's the explanation for the audio. that'd be a little good news at least. Thank you for the tip!


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

The Bogg said:


> This week I was actually looking for some support for my aging D1-hd but no reply to an email.


 Sorry for the delay - we added three support reps a few days ago and the three existing ones are providing the training in addition to their regular work.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

dmusoke said:


> But the question still remains as to why it has to be that high (12.6vrms for the D2 for example) when the required voltage for full-power for the power-amps they feed into is 2V or less for most (if not all) consumer power amps.


2Vrms is just enough for a 400W amp with 29 dB voltage gain. Such an amp has 56.6Vrms between its output terminals when playing at maximum unclipped output into 8 ohms.

Some amps use more than 2V to reach their full output, for example 4.5V in the case of the 1000W Statement M1. Other amps have less than 29 dB gain, requiring correspondingly higher input voltage.

With balanced connection the voltage figure inherently doubles because while one phase is sitting at +2V, for example, the other phase mirrors it at -2V. Difference = 4V.


----------



## The Bogg

Nick @ Anthem said:


> Sorry for the delay - we added three support reps a few days ago and the three existing ones are providing the training in addition to their regular work.


Hi Nick, thanks for chiming in. I'll wait for an email reply.


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## HiFiGuy1

Nick,
I hope you don't mind if I may be repeating a previously asked question, but I don't feel like wading through 1400+ pages  of this thread right now. When do we hope to have Atmos in either an MRX or AVM or Statement Dx product?


----------



## jviggi

thestewman said:


> Are you sure you have the Source setup correctly ?
> 
> It might pay to Double check
> 
> Scaler Input (C) should be the HDMI # with the video
> Audio In (Line G) should be Dig HDMI
> 
> And if your display is like any other you need to change the audio to an external connection.to turn off the displays audio
> 
> Like stated before the Roku 3 has software problems


Thanks, I did double check.I am not sure what you mean about the audio. Are you talking about switching the output on the TV. If so I have done that. Thanks again.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

HiFiGuy1 said:


> When do we hope to have Atmos in either an MRX or AVM or Statement Dx product?


UHD Blu-ray and DTS:X among other things are in the mix in addition to Dolby Atmos. More info will become available as the usual annual trade shows or mass production approach.


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## dmusoke

Nick @ Anthem said:


> 2Vrms is just enough for a 400W amp with 29 dB voltage gain. Such an amp has 56.6Vrms between its output terminals when playing at maximum unclipped output into 8 ohms.
> 
> Some amps use more than 2V to reach their full output, for example 4.5V in the case of the 1000W Statement M1. Other amps have less than 29 dB gain, requiring correspondingly higher input voltage.
> 
> With balanced connection the voltage figure inherently doubles because while one phase is sitting at +2V, for example, the other phase mirrors it at -2V. Difference = 4V.



So the answer is all about amplifier gain, right?. Those amps with low gain need higher input voltage to maximize their output power. That makes sense now...


----------



## benleeys

*Dying Front Panel Display Pixels*



leeshanok said:


> Is anyone experiencing dimmed pixels on their D2/D2v display? I have a D2 and some of the pixels in the letters/characters are not as bright as the rest. Is there any fix for this aside from buying a new unit? Interestingly I have an older D1 and the display still looks as if it was still new.


Mine too are dying one by one. Emailed tech support more than 6 weeks ago, but no response so far.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

benleeys said:


> Mine too are dying one by one. Emailed tech support more than 6 weeks ago, but no response so far.


After six weeks it's safe to say the message didn't make it (I just looked for it). Please re-send the inquiry using the web form, noting that e-mail addresses that worked in the past may no longer work, for example tech at company dot com and Piero's address.

www.anthemav.com/support/contact-us.php

I suspect the only fix for pixel burn-in is a new display or front panel circuit assembly.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

dmusoke said:


> So the answer is all about amplifier gain, right?


 Amp gain *and* max output. Average voltage into high-powered amp with average gain = average output. A 29 dB gain 1000W amp fed with 2V puts out 400W. To get all 1000W the volume needs to be turned up. In this situation a preamp that doesn't put out more than 2V would clip long before the amp gets anywhere near its full output. On the other hand a 29 dB gain 100W amp reaches its full output with 1Vrms input.

The other solution is higher gain in high-powered amps, but this could affect their noise floor and/or cause level mismatch beyond the adjustment range in the level calibration menu when using high-powered amps for the front channels and average-powered amps for the surrounds. PA amps have adjustable input level, often on their front panels, for similar reasons.


----------



## The Bogg

Nick @ Anthem said:


> After six weeks it's safe to say the message didn't make it (I just looked for it). Please re-send the inquiry using the web form, noting that e-mail addresses that worked in the past may no longer work, for example tech at company dot com and Piero's address.
> 
> www.anthemav.com/support/contact-us.php



If you have a moment please look up case 8291 - I did reply to the standard email I got back after filling out the webform but still haven't heard anything.


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## Thxtheater

@Nick I think I speak for many in saying thanks for visiting the forum every now and again. You don't need to do it and just wanted to express gratitude.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

The Bogg said:


> If you have a moment please look up case 8291 - I did reply to the standard email I got back after filling out the webform but still haven't heard anything.


 John sent a reply yesterday, maybe at around the same time of your post - could you confirm whether it was received?


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Thxtheater said:


> @Nick I think I speak for many in saying thanks for visiting the forum every now and again. You don't need to do it and just wanted to express gratitude.


 Thanks, I enjoy being involved as time permits.


----------



## The Bogg

Nick @ Anthem said:


> John sent a reply yesterday, maybe at around the same time of your post - could you confirm whether it was received?


I did get it - thanks.


----------



## benleeys

Nick @ Anthem said:


> After six weeks it's safe to say the message didn't make it (I just looked for it). Please re-send the inquiry using the web form, noting that e-mail addresses that worked in the past may no longer work, for example tech at company dot com and Piero's address.
> 
> www.anthemav.com/support/contact-us.php
> 
> I suspect the only fix for pixel burn-in is a new display or front panel circuit assembly.


Thanks, Nick, for your kind response. Email sent.


----------



## DenonAVFreak

*Help with Dolby Volume Issue*



Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Well it sounds like you may have a hardware problem for the Headphone output. I doubt that's related to your XBOX problem, but when a portion of the hardware is faulty, it's hard to know.
> 
> 
> On the XBOX problem, are you using Bitstream of LPCM audio input? Have you tried them both?
> 
> 
> You've checked to see that the firmware in the XBOX is up to date, right?
> 
> --Bob


 Hello Bob,

This is my first attempt at posting anything so I hope this makes it to the board and to you. I have been experiencing an issue when using Dolby Volume that results in my getting short static like popping/crackling when playing primarily the DTS MA track of blu-ray discs. In trying to research the cause and find a fix I was lead here. I am hoping you or someone else on the forum can suggest a fix for this issue besides just not using the feature with blu-rays which was the fix suggested by Andrew Cirurgiao at Anthem.

I am experiencing an issue with Dolby Volume. It occurs when playing blu-ray concert discs via my Oppo BDP-83. My settings are as follows:

Processor Version: Statement D2v 3D
Firmware Version: 3.10
Dolby Volume Setting: Cinema 
Dolby Vol Level Setting: Off
Half Mode Setting: On
Dolby Vol Cal Setting:  Any 
Anthem D2V Master Volume Setting: Any (Seems to occur at all volume levels above zero [-95.5dB].)
The Dolby Vol Auto Gain graphic in the on screen status display shows the + sign in the third position of the 11 step graphic line or: L_ _*+*_ _+_ _ _ _ _H 

The problem is that a short static like popping occurs seemingly at random when playing/listening to the concert discs. This static like popping is usually very short in duration and sounds somewhat like if there is a short in a mic or speaker cable and the cable is moved, triggering the crackle/static like popping sound.

I have tried various blu-ray discs and both hi-rez codec’s: Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master Audio. It seems that the issue occurs much more often when playing the DTS Master Audio track than when playing the Dolby True HD audio track. In fact, when playing the “Rolling Stones – Shine a Light” blu-ray which has both audio tracks on the disc, the Dolby True HD track plays perfectly but the DTS Master Audio track of the exact same song exhibits the problem. I am unsure if this is a coincidence or if the Dolby Volume feature “behaves better” when processing Dolby type audio (Dolby TrueHD) than when processing the DTS MA track. 

With Dolby Volume off this short static like popping does not occur when playing discs in either audio codec. 

Is there a setting change, a firmware update or another action that can be done to eliminate this issue?

Thank you very much for your help!


----------



## tngiloy

DenonAVFreak said:


> I am hoping you or someone else on the forum can suggest a fix for this issue besides just not using the feature with blu-rays which was the fix suggested by Andrew Cirurgiao at Anthem.
> 
> With Dolby Volume off this short static like popping does not occur when playing discs in either audio codec.
> 
> Is there a setting change, a firmware update or another action that can be done to eliminate this issue?
> 
> Thank you very much for your help!


 
I'm not Bob, but Andrew is right. There is no reason to use Dolby Volume for disc playback since each disc, whether movie or music, should be recorded at a consistent level. Dolby Volume is made to be used for sources like cable or satellite where there may be volume differences between channels.

Since playback is fine without DV, and since DV is not needed, turn it off for all sources other than cable/satellite.


If you do a search on this thread for 'dolby volume' you will find that it is often more of a hindrance than a help, and most here don't use it for any source. DV is adding nothing to your listening enjoyment except an unnecessary layer of processing that is lessening your enjoyment. Just turn it off and enjoy.


Tom


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## Bob Pariseau

^ Dolby Volume CINEMA plays content +10dB hotter than normal -- evidently by design.

I don't know exactly where this boost is implemented in the signal path, but it wouldn't surprise me if it is happening before Main Volume attenuation is applied. And it might even be happening before Dolby Volume Calibration Level adjustment is applied.

Now, those TrueHD and DTS-HD MA tracks on Blu-ray discs may very well be authored up to the limits of max audio scale -- particularly for more dynamic, action movies. Indeed for brief moments the digital volume level may actually EXCEED full scale (due to technical details of how this stuff is encoded and interpreted).

So it wouldn't surprise me if Dolby Volume CINEMA, in combination with a highly dynamic TrueHD or DTS-HD MA track like that, briefly clips the digital audio signal path. That might explain why it is not happening with DD or DTS tracks from TV programs.

I'd suggest you either follow the advice to NOT use Dolby Volume when playing Blu-ray discs (which would be my recommendation, too), or try switching to Dolby Volume MUSIC which does the same processing but without the extra +10dB boost.
--Bob


----------



## DenonAVFreak

*RE: Help with Dolby Volume Issue*

Tom and Bob, I thank you both for your replies to my request for help with my Dolby Volume issue. I will take your advice and that of Andrew C and simply not use it going forward. 

I feel that some explanation is necessary concerning the reasons behind why I wanted to use it. First let me say that I am definitely not a fan of limited dynamic range or signal compression and would much prefer to hear the full high resolution signal. Unfortunately I am restricted as to when I can actually listen full range. Currently I am able to watch/listen primarily in the evenings and therefore I have to reduce the volume level to allow others to sleep. Employing Dolby Volume seemed like just the thing to allow me this ability since Dolby Volume literature describes the feature as "Enabling surround sound at low volumes and restoration of low frequencies and dynamic sound effects that you otherwise would simply not hear." In addition, page 35 of the D2v manual does not mention use of the Dolby Volume feature with TV broadcasts. It says: "Select Cinema Reference, On, or Off according to the content most often played through the source or preference. Cinema Reference uses more aggressive leveling, accounting for the difference in reference level used in movie production from levels in typical music recordings." The way this is written it seems that Dolby Volume is to be used with content other than TV broadcasts, hence my desire to try it. 

While a dedicated media room is one my goals, I haven't yet accomplished it. In the interim, I was trying to find a solution that allowed me to gain a better listening experience at lower volume levels. 

Thank you both once again for your advice!


----------



## AVfile

There is also a DYNAMICS button on the remote you might try instead of DV. It was there to provide "midnight modes" long before DV was implemented.


----------



## stanger89

FWIW, I have Dolby Volume on, but I've got Cinema Off and I believe the level set to 0 (off). I think that's right, it's been a while since I set everything up. I really like this because it adds the perceptual house curve that bumps the low/high frequencies up as you reduce the volume, to bring back a bit of the punch that's "lost" otherwise. It's quite nice, especially since I don't listen at anywhere near reference level.


----------



## tngiloy

Also check the setup menu in the source equipment. I use an Oppo 103D and it has a setting for 'DRC' in its Audio setup menu --which sets dynamic range compression. It sounds like it does what you are trying to accomplish.
I think a lot of players have similar 'late night' listening settings. It may work better if set in your source rather than the D2v.


Good luck,
Tom


----------



## N2AUDIO

Hello everyone!

I recently purchased a used Anthem AVM 20 from an individual on Audiogon, but the yahoo who sold it to me forgot to remove the setup password for the preamp and I can't get a hold of that individual to get the password. Is there any way to do a "hard reset" of the AVM 20 using a sequence of buttons on the front panel in order to erase the settings to factory defaults?


----------



## tngiloy

N2AUDIO said:


> Hello everyone!
> 
> I recently purchased a used Anthem AVM 20 from an individual on Audiogon, but the yahoo who sold it to me forgot to remove the setup password for the preamp and I can't get a hold of that individual to get the password. Is there any way to do a "hard reset" of the AVM 20 using a sequence of buttons on the front panel in order to erase the settings to factory defaults?


I don't know of a way to 'hard reset'. Your best bet would be to contact Anthem tech support-


http://www.anthemav.com/support/index.php


Good luck,
Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ There's nothing in the Manual on how to do that. You'll need to give Anthem Tech Support a call. There is likely a procedure for you to do it, but if not you may have to send it to them to reset the unit in the factory.
--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ There's nothing in the Manual on how to do that. You'll need to give Anthem Tech Support a call. There is likely a procedure for you to do it, but if not you may have to send it to them to reset the unit in the factory.
> --Bob


 
Hopefully a 'flash erase' and new firmware download and installation will fix it.
From personal experience sending equipment back to Anthem can be a slow trip. Especially if US Customs is involved.
N2AUDIO, please let us know how it works out for you.


Tom


----------



## MitchPope

N2AUDIO said:


> Hello everyone!
> 
> I recently purchased a used Anthem AVM 20 from an individual on Audiogon, but the yahoo who sold it to me forgot to remove the setup password for the preamp and I can't get a hold of that individual to get the password. Is there any way to do a "hard reset" of the AVM 20 using a sequence of buttons on the front panel in order to erase the settings to factory defaults?


It might not work, but in the D2 manual to clear the password, you press the right arrow key 4 times, then 4 times again to confirm. It may flash message "user password removed".


----------



## slots1

I had my anthem d2v updated to the 3d model about 11 months ago.
running fine up to six weeks ago. Sent it back to anthem and another almost a month went by.
it was the cable to the 3d hdmi that was replaced
they sent it back with defaults installed. I do not think i saved by last settings. But I put in the user settings.
everything working fine including oppo on bluray and dvds, except my media server that has blu rays and dvds on it.
The 1080p films have a jitter, jumping. In both 60 frames or 24p

the 24p from my oppo works fine

settings 
ntsc 
hdmi
1920x1080p/24
hdtb
studio rgb
12 bit i have tried lowering it to 8 bit no luck
black
normal
passthru

set on sat 1 and 2
sat two is

hdmi 2 
dig hdmi
auto dig no

any suggestions, please
thanks
gerry


----------



## thestewman

slots1 said:


> I had my anthem d2v updated to the 3d model about 11 months ago.
> running fine up to six weeks ago. Sent it back to anthem and another almost a month went by.
> it was the cable to the 3d hdmi that was replaced
> they sent it back with defaults installed. I do not think i saved by last settings. But I put in the user settings.
> everything working fine including oppo on bluray and dvds, except my media server that has blu rays and dvds on it.
> The 1080p films have a jitter, jumping. In both 60 frames or 24p
> 
> the 24p from my oppo works fine
> 
> settings
> ntsc
> hdmi
> 1920x1080p/24
> hdtb
> studio rgb
> 12 bit i have tried lowering it to 8 bit no luck
> black
> normal
> passthru
> 
> set on sat 1 and 2
> sat two is
> 
> hdmi 2
> dig hdmi
> auto dig no
> 
> any suggestions, please
> thanks
> gerry



Gerry

What is your media server ?

What kind of video files are you attempting to playback ?

How do you get the signal fromyour media server ?

How do you get the video and audio signal to the Anthem HDMI input ?

The playback should be the same for your OPPO. Have you tried switching the Anthem HDMI inputs ?


----------



## N2AUDIO

tngiloy said:


> Hopefully a 'flash erase' and new firmware download and installation will fix it.
> From personal experience sending equipment back to Anthem can be a slow trip. Especially if US Customs is involved.
> N2AUDIO, please let us know how it works out for you.
> 
> 
> Tom


Tom,

Thank you for your help and concern (and for everyone else's for that matter). I was able to obtain the password from the guy I bought the AVM-20 from, so disaster was averted. On a different note, I noticed that when I power up the AVM20, it takes about 8 to 10 seconds for the preamp to trigger my Emotiva UPA-500 amp to turn on. This did not happen with my NAD T747 that I was using as a preamp, because I could vary the trigger delay with that unit, but there doesn't seem to be a way to do that with the AVM20 (only enable/disable it). It's kind of annoying and certainly doesn't seem like it should work that way. It's very consistent in the lag, too. Has anyone experienced this long lag in triggering amps with their AVM 20, 30, and/or 40 processors? Not sure if this is normal behavior for these Anthems or not. As always, your inputs are greatly appreciated.

James


----------



## tngiloy

N2AUDIO said:


> Tom,
> 
> Thank you for your help and concern (and for everyone else's for that matter). I was able to obtain the password from the guy I bought the AVM-20 from, so disaster was averted. On a different note, I noticed that when I power up the AVM20, it takes about 8 to 10 seconds for the preamp to trigger my Emotiva UPA-500 amp to turn on. This did not happen with my NAD T747 that I was using as a preamp, because I could vary the trigger delay with that unit, but there doesn't seem to be a way to do that with the AVM20 (only enable/disable it). It's kind of annoying and certainly doesn't seem like it should work that way. It's very consistent in the lag, too. Has anyone experienced this long lag in triggering amps with their AVM 20, 30, and/or 40 processors? Not sure if this is normal behavior for these Anthems or not. As always, your inputs are greatly appreciated.
> 
> James


 My D2v takes about 45-60 seconds to power up to the point that the 12v triggers are enabled. This is normal with all the Anthem processors I have owned. During the 'power up' cycle none of the remote functions will work-- volume, source select, etc.
If it really bothers you, just turn the AVM 20 on first, then your sources and monitors.


Tom

BTW-- glad you were able to get the password and didn't have to do anything drastic.


----------



## MitchPope

N2AUDIO said:


> Has anyone experienced this long lag in triggering amps with their AVM 20, 30, and/or 40 processors? Not sure if this is normal behavior for these Anthems or not. As always, your inputs are greatly appreciated.


My D2 takes about 12 seconds before it triggers the amp. 
I didn't see anything in the AVM 20 manual (sec 7.4.9) about the initial delay, but the sequential delay is 250 ms so that you don't end up with a voltage drop.


----------



## tngiloy

MitchPope said:


> My D2 takes about 12 seconds before it triggers the amp.
> I didn't see anything in the AVM 20 manual (sec 7.4.9) about the initial delay, but the sequential delay is 250 ms so that you don't end up with a voltage drop.



I just timed my D2v at 27 seconds. Guess my 45-60 second estimate was way off. It says a lot about my patience level, or lack of patience level to be more precise.
You must have faster electricity up there in Canada than I have down here in Colorado. 


Tom


----------



## gerard1meehan

tngiloy said:


> I just timed my D2v at 27 seconds. Guess my 45-60 second estimate was way off. It says a lot about my patience level, or lack of patience level to be more precise.
> You must have faster electricity up there in Canada than I have down here in Colorado.
> 
> 
> Tom


I believe their electricity is metric so there ya go


----------



## Bruceko

You must have faster electricity up there in Canada than I have down here in Colorado. 


Tom[/QUOTE]

I think it is an elevation problem


----------



## tngiloy

Bruceko said:


> You must have faster electricity up there in Canada than I have down here in Colorado.
> 
> 
> Tom


I think it is an elevation problem[/QUOTE]


With the new laws in both our states I bet you can get just as 'elevated' in Washington as we can in Colorado. Just saying.


----------



## barhoram

I just upgraded from a D2 to D2V. Prior to the upgrade, I had my Oppo Blu Ray player set to decode everything to 5.1 LPCM to the D2 via HDMI. Now that the D2V can decode all of the HD audio formats, I changed the setting on the Oppo to Bitstream. None of the speakers or amps changed, so I just uploaded my last ARC settings to the new D2V. and set the main volume trim (can't recall exact name) to match what is was previously. I've noticed a huge volume increase...used to listen at -3 or -4 from reference (so -13 -14). Those same levels now are way to loud...so we have to back off to -23 or -24 and the subs have really lost thier punch. Is there anything that would affect volume level from changing LPCM to bistream? 

Will re-run arc with the new unit when we have time..but was curious if this change had something to do with it?


----------



## RobDec

*Dts ma 2.0*

Hi
I was watching a bluray "Death Hunt" which is DTS MA 2.0, and I put my D2v on DTS MA 2.0+ neo 6 cin and didn't get any sound on the surrounds or rears. Tried DTS MA 2.0 + plII x and the same thing ( however I did get a slight sound on the left surround on both of these formats)
My Oppo 103d is set to bitstream. Is this an issue with the D2v or Oppo? Or possibly a software issue?

Thanks 
Rob


----------



## tngiloy

barhoram said:


> I just upgraded from a D2 to D2V. Prior to the upgrade, I had my Oppo Blu Ray player set to decode everything to 5.1 LPCM to the D2 via HDMI. Now that the D2V can decode all of the HD audio formats, I changed the setting on the Oppo to Bitstream. None of the speakers or amps changed, so I just uploaded my last ARC settings to the new D2V. and set the main volume trim (can't recall exact name) to match what is was previously. I've noticed a huge volume increase...used to listen at -3 or -4 from reference (so -13 -14). Those same levels now are way to loud...so we have to back off to -23 or -24 and the subs have really lost thier punch. Is there anything that would affect volume level from changing LPCM to bistream?
> 
> Will re-run arc with the new unit when we have time..but was curious if this change had something to do with it?



I wouldn't think that it would change that much from D2 to D2v. It didn't with me.
Bob had mentioned something on the last page about Dolby Volume affecting the volume by + 10 dB somehow. I don't know if this might be your problem, but make sure that Dolby Volume is not enabled for that source. Otherwise you may need to adjust the 'test volume' and reset the subs to 75 dB with a SPL meter, and then re-run ARC. 
Hopefully someone else will have another suggestion if the Dolby Volume setting isn't the problem so that you don't have to re-run ARC.


Good Luck,
Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Even though you can upload D2 ARC results into the D2v, I'd recommend you re-run ARC for the D2v setup before you do anything else.

Also, if this new D2v was used, or a demo unit, it may have "temporary" speaker level adjustments in place -- the ones you can set with the buttons around the Arrow keys. To clear all of the "temporary" settings:

1) Save User Settings
2) Reload Factory Defaults -- if you lose video at this point, you can continue using the Front Panel Display
3) Reload Saved User Settings

The "temporary" settings are not Saved, so this clears all of them.

--------------------------------------

Be sure you have both the latest firmware in the D2v, and also the latest ARC application on your Windows PC. Both are downloadable from the Anthem support page.

And double check that you have Room EQ enabled for each Setup > Source Setup definition, otherwise those ARC results aren't actually being used.

After you re-do your ARC setup, check your levels using a calibration disc -- I recommend the LPCM test tracks on AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray. If you've used this disc with your prior, D2 setup, you can also compare your memory of the Main Volume level needed to achieve a certain output from the speakers -- say 75dB SPL -- with the D2 vs. the D2v.

In addition to the Dolby Volume comment above, note that if you have switched to using the XLR outputs to your amps those run, by design, +6dB hotter than the RCA outputs. Typically there is a setting on the amp's inputs to compensate for that if desired.

You can also use the Bitstream tracks on that disc to compare Bitstream and LPCM output from the OPPO into your D2v. The levels should be the same.
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

RobDec said:


> Hi
> I was watching a bluray "Death Hunt" which is DTS MA 2.0, and I put my D2v on DTS MA 2.0+ neo 6 cin and didn't get any sound on the surrounds or rears. Tried DTS MA 2.0 + plII x and the same thing ( however I did get a slight sound on the left surround on both of these formats)
> My Oppo 103d is set to bitstream. Is this an issue with the D2v or Oppo? Or possibly a software issue?
> 
> Thanks
> Rob


 Now I put in "Clash of the Titans" which is also DTS MA 2.0. I get no sound and the front panel reads DTS MA 7.1( put the previews I do get sound). I put in a DTS MA 7.1 movie "Escape" and it works fine.
Is this the Oppo or D2v. Ive read of other receivers/processors that have problems with DTS MA 2.0.

Any help would be appreciated.
Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Neither the OPPO nor the D2v have problems with DTS-HD MA 2.0. There's something else going on.
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Thanks Bob
Although I suffer from CRS I think I remember Death Hunt did this on my previous processor. The 7.1 on Clash of the Titans has me worried.
Thanks Again 
Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Now I put in "Clash of the Titans" which is also DTS MA 2.0. I get no sound and the front panel reads DTS MA 7.1( put the previews I do get sound). I put in a DTS MA 7.1 movie "Escape" and it works fine.
> Is this the Oppo or D2v. Ive read of other receivers/processors that have problems with DTS MA 2.0.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> Rob



The web is full of complaints about DTSMA 1.0 and 2.0 playback especially the Clash of Titans and DTS MA 1.0 and 2.0 discs from Warner Bros.
Try changing from Bitstream, which I believe you are currently using, to LPCM and see if your Bluray player exhibits the sound decoding problem too


----------



## RobDec

thestewman said:


> The web is full of complaints about DTSMA 1.0 and 2.0 playback especially the Clash of Titans and DTS MA 1.0 and 2.0 discs from Warner Bros.
> Try changing from Bitstream, which I believe you are currently using, to LPCM and see if your Bluray player exhibits the sound decoding problem too


Thanks Thestewman,
Ill give that a try once I get home from work.
Much appreciate it!
Rob


----------



## RobDec

thestewman said:


> The web is full of complaints about DTSMA 1.0 and 2.0 playback especially the Clash of Titans and DTS MA 1.0 and 2.0 discs from Warner Bros.
> Try changing from Bitstream, which I believe you are currently using, to LPCM and see if your Bluray player exhibits the sound decoding problem too


 thestewman,
Just got done changing to lpcm and it works fine! Thanks! 
Can anyone tell me if I should change my Coax/optical Output Settings to 192k on my Oppo for playing CDs and if it runs tandem with the D2v?

Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> thestewman,
> Just got done changing to lpcm and it works fine! Thanks!
> Can anyone tell me if I should change my Coax/optical Output Settings to 192k on my Oppo for playing CDs and if it runs tandem with the D2v?
> 
> Rob


If you set the D2 to use 192k everything you connect exept HDMI will be processed at 192k.
Do you have a compelling reason to use optical or coaxial ?
Personally since CD is a 2 channel audio signal usually stereo I would be using analog out from the OPPO and analog direct with the D2.
Experiment and test it


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ For the OPPO players, the Optical/Coax output rate setting is a limit, not an up-sampling choice.

CDs will be output on Optical/Coax as 44.1KHz regardless of the setting. If you select a setting of, say, 88.2KHz, content at that rate or lower will be output unchanged. Content at a higher rate will be limited -- down-sampled -- to 88.2KHz for output.

The setting only impacts Stereo LPCM output on the Optical/Coax (S/PDIF) outputs. The idea is to make sure those are limited to what the device at the other end of the cable can accept for Stereo LPCM, since there's no equivalent of the HDMI handshake to limit things automatically for S/PDIF.
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Thanks thestewman and Bob,
Its always good to learn!
Rob


----------



## gerard1meehan

Quick question,

On the D2v. Analog DSP input is processed at 24/96 or 24/192??


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It is digitized on input at up to 96 -- there's a pair settings in Setup > ADC that controls this for stereo and for multi-channel Analog input. This digitization prior to processing is the critical factor. So, 96.
--Bob


----------



## gerard1meehan

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ It is digitized on input at up to 96 -- there's a pair settings in Setup > ADC that controls this for stereo and for multi-channel Analog input. This digitization prior to processing is the critical factor. So, 96.
> --Bob


Thanks Bob,

And I am correct in saying that if I then chose analog direct that the it also bypasses the digital crossovers within the unit?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If you select ANALOG DIRECT the Analog audio input is not digitized and thus can not be processed in any fashion. It is "analog pass-through". Basically you are using the D2v as an Analog pre-amp for that Setup > Source Setup definition -- just Volume control.

If you need Crossover processing, your Source device may be able to provide that before it sends multi-channel Analog to the D2v.
--Bob


----------



## gerard1meehan

Thanks Bob,

I have a a turntable and a studio reel to reel. I've been comparing the sound between Direct and DSP with and without ARC.  So that where my curiosity concerning the DSP mode started.


----------



## thestewman

gerard1meehan said:


> Quick question,
> 
> On the D2v. Analog DSP input is processed at 24/96 or 24/192??





Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ It is digitized on input at up to 96 -- there's a pair settings in Setup > ADC that controls this for stereo and for multi-channel Analog input. This digitization prior to processing is the critical factor. So, 96.
> --Bob



Bob

I think you are referring to the older D2 as the D2v upscales to 192 for all digital audio.


----------



## thestewman

gerard1meehan said:


> Thanks Bob,
> 
> I have a a turntable and a studio reel to reel. I've been comparing the sound between Direct and DSP with and without ARC. So that where my curiosity concerning the DSP mode started.


I would be interested in your review of your comparison testing.
Specifically what you hear as the difference between Analog Direct and Analog DSP and also the results of with and without ARC on the DSP signal.
Then which you prefer


----------



## gerard1meehan

Hi Stew,

It's a bit of a mixed bag honestly. For the turntable I "mostly" like the DSP with ARC, but I wrecked my old cartridge and I'm in the breakin period for the new one. Also this week My Halo J3 phono stage is being delivered so that could change all of it. 

On the 15 IPS tape I like direct "mostly" and then DSP without Arc. But as of right now my library is limited to more classical pieces as they the most reasonably priced to acquire.



when it's all up and running again I'll do some tests.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

thestewman said:


> Bob
> 
> I think you are referring to the older D2 as the D2v upscales to 192 for all digital audio.


Nevertheless, the Analog input is digitized at no higher than 96kHz, and that becomes the limiting factor.
--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

gerard1meehan said:


> Quick question,
> 
> On the D2v. Analog DSP input is processed at 24/96 or 24/192??


This is fro the D2v manual. Maybe I don't understand something here, but it looks like it is processed at 24/192. Where is the limitation?


Tom


----------



## Shrike645

tngiloy said:


> This is fro the D2v manual. Maybe I don't understand something here, but it looks like it is processed at 24/192. Where is the limitation?
> 
> 
> Tom


I thought all ARC processing was 24/96 which goes along with what Bob said. While it accepts 24/192 in if ARC is on it's down sampled.


----------



## tngiloy

Shrike645 said:


> I thought all ARC processing was 24/96 which goes along with what Bob said. While it accepts 24/192 in if ARC is on it's down sampled.



You and Bob may be right, but the way the manual is worded makes it sound as if "In Digital and Analog-DSP, All channels are upsampled to 24 bit/192kHz ,....".
Seems pretty straight forward to me. And I'm pretty sure ARC is a form of DSP.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it would seem that either the manual is wrong, or you and Bob or wrong, or there is something here I am not understanding.
Please enlighten me if I'm wrong. 


FWIW, 96kHz is probably more than enough upsampling. When I download digital music I usually choose 96kHz, even if 192kHz is available. Partly because its cheaper, but mostly because I can't hear the difference. And I really don't want to start that conversation here. I would just like to know what I'm not understanding.


Tom


----------



## thestewman

tngiloy said:


> You and Bob may be right, but the way the manual is worded makes it sound as if "In Digital and Analog-DSP, All channels are upsampled to 24 bit/192kHz ,....".
> Seems pretty straight forward to me. And I'm pretty sure ARC is a form of DSP.
> Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it would seem that either the manual is wrong, or you and Bob or wrong, or there is something here I am not understanding.
> Please enlighten me if I'm wrong.
> 
> 
> FWIW, 96kHz is probably more than enough upsampling. When I download digital music I usually choose 96kHz, even if 192kHz is available. Partly because its cheaper, but mostly because I can't hear the difference. And I really don't want to start that conversation here. I would just like to know what I'm not understanding.
> 
> 
> Tom


i agree Tom. The manual is pretty clear. I believe Anthem made a big deal out of the upgrade to the D2v as a selling point.

Stew


----------



## stanger89

tngiloy said:


> You and Bob may be right, but the way the manual is worded makes it sound as if "In Digital and Analog-DSP, All channels are upsampled to 24 bit/192kHz ,....".
> Seems pretty straight forward to me. And I'm pretty sure ARC is a form of DSP.
> Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it would seem that either the manual is wrong, or you and Bob or wrong, or there is something here I am not understanding.
> Please enlighten me if I'm wrong.


I assume it gets upsampled at the end, after ARC and all the other processing is done.


----------



## AVfile

stanger89 said:


> I assume it gets upsampled at the end, after ARC and all the other processing is done.



Yep. The DAC chipset does the upsampling in the D2v so it really is done last and out of Anthem's hands. 

Analog-DSP would go: 
ADC (96k) -> DSP/ARC (96k) -> DAC (192k).

Don't forget the AVM-50v is the same but without the upsampling DACs:
ADC (96k) -> DSP/ARC (96k) -> DAC (96k).

If the input signal is 192k digital then the DACs run at 192k in BOTH models as upsampling is not involved.


----------



## tngiloy

AVfile said:


> Yep. The DAC chipset does the upsampling in the D2v so it really is done last and out of Anthem's hands.
> 
> Analog-DSP would go:
> ADC (96k) -> DSP/ARC (96k) -> DAC (192k).
> 
> Don't forget the AVM-50v is the same but without the upsampling DACs:
> ADC (96k) -> DSP/ARC (96k) -> DAC (96k).
> 
> If the input signal is 192k digital then the DACs run at 192k in BOTH models as upsampling is not involved.


Here is a section of an interview between Audioholics and Anthem's Nick that may help to add clarity to this discussion.
Here is a link to the whole interview http://www.audioholics.com/room-acoustics/anthem-arc-room-eq-interview


----------



## gerard1meehan

tngiloy said:


> Here is a section of an interview between Audioholics and Anthem's Nick that may help to add clarity to this discussion.
> Here I a link to the whole interview http://www.audioholics.com/room-acoustics/anthem-arc-room-eq-interview


Interesting article and it clears things up nicely. Thanks for the link!


----------



## dmusoke

AVfile said:


> Yep. The DAC chipset does the upsampling in the D2v so it really is done last and out of Anthem's hands.
> 
> Analog-DSP would go:
> ADC (96k) -> DSP/ARC (96k) -> DAC (192k).
> 
> Don't forget the AVM-50v is the same but without the upsampling DACs:
> ADC (96k) -> DSP/ARC (96k) -> DAC (96k).
> 
> If the input signal is 192k digital then the DACs run at 192k in BOTH models as upsampling is not involved.



The last statement is true for the D2v's until you apply ARC where the 192k digital signal is down-sampled to 96k for ARC processing then up-sampled to 192k to the DACs for output. All ARC processing occurs at 96k for the AVM/D2v processors...


----------



## gerard1meehan

Stew,

So far with the new Phono Stage on the turntable Analog Direct is the king.


----------



## thestewman

As I would have suspected. I have had the same results. When you get the time and resources. Try an external DAC and DSD files played with analog direct.
You will not regret it. Digital that sounds better than any CD.


----------



## Texas steve

today my D2V wont lock on to the Bitstream output of my Oppo 83 for sound (all via HDMI). I have made no changes and tried many disks. video is fine. When I change the Oppo to LPCM then the D2v works fine. Any ideas guys?

UPDATE:: I unplugged the D2v, disconnected all inputs/outputs, pressed the power button twice, then reconnected everything and now it works!! Go figure


Texas Steve


----------



## AVfile

Texas steve said:


> When I change the Oppo to LPCM then the D2v works fine.
> 
> UPDATE:: I unplugged the D2v, disconnected all inputs/outputs, pressed the power button twice, then reconnected everything and now it works!!



Did you change it back to Bitstream and confirm that it wasn't working again BEFORE unplugging it?


----------



## Texas steve

AVfile said:


> Did you change it back to Bitstream and confirm that it wasn't working again BEFORE unplugging it?



Yes I did and it still was not working on Bitstream. The power/reset did the trick


----------



## AVfile

Texas steve said:


> Yes I did and it still was not working on Bitstream. The power/reset did the trick



That's unfortunate as it sounds like it wasn't just an HDMI handshake issue. Most issues I've run into are resolved by changing input or cycling power on one component in the signal path.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It may very well have been fixed just by reseating the HDMI plugs in sockets. 
--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

AVfile said:


> That's unfortunate as it sounds like it wasn't just an HDMI handshake issue. Most issues I've run into are resolved by changing input or cycling power on one component in the signal path.





Bob Pariseau said:


> It may very well have been fixed just by reseating the HDMI plugs in sockets.
> --Bob


 
I am sure there is logical reason that it started working again. Maybe it was cycling the power on one or more components. Maybe it was reseating the hdmi connections. Maybe it was all the above. Maybe it was none of the above.


I don't know how many times I've power cycled a component once or twice with no help, but the third time-it worked. Did I do something different the third time? Maybe, but I don't think so. Perhaps I arranged the curse words differently. Maybe I pushed the buttons with a different finger. Maybe the microprocessors decided to work this time. Maybe the equipment liked my choice of movie or music better the third time. I honestly don't know why sometimes something works and sometimes it doesn't. Probably something logical, but sometimes I think it might be voodoo.

I hope I don't offend any PETA members here, but if it is just voodoo, I would be willing to sacrifice a chicken to appease the A/V gods if it will help. 
If anyone else is interested please p.m. me. 
Also, if anyone knows the proper way to offer sacrifices, please p.m. me, as this will be my first sacrifice. Unless you want to count the time I accidentally dropped a chicken breast on the charcoal before the grate was in place.


Tom


----------



## AVfile

LOL
I've been having to toggle inputs to get a video signal to pass thru the 50v lately, ever since the weather warmed up. 
When it was really cold out I had to cycle power on the video processor to get any image on the projector at all (HDMI cable runs through the attic where it drops below -20 in the winter).
Methinks my main system is too complex. My other 3 systems don't have these problems of course.


----------



## bigdaddy999

*Peak Bass Level in the D2 - Where is it?*

I have a D2 that nearly blew up my Velo HGS-12's watching Interstellar. I looked in the manual and see something called "Peak Bass Level" described, but at least on my unit (v1.33) I cannot locate it in the D2's menus.

Does it exist? if so, where? If not, is there another way to limit .1 output other than turning down the volume? There's such huge dynamic range in this movie it's hard to find a volume that works to listen to, and that won't destroy my equipment.

Thanks


----------



## Texas steve

tngiloy said:


> I am sure there is logical reason that it started working again. Maybe it was cycling the power on one or more components. Maybe it was reseating the hdmi connections. Maybe it was all the above. Maybe it was none of the above.
> 
> I don't know how many times I've power cycled a component once or twice with no help, but the third time-it worked. Did I do something different the third time? Maybe, but I don't think so. Perhaps I arranged the curse words differently. Maybe I pushed the buttons with a different finger. Maybe the microprocessors decided to work this time. Maybe the equipment liked my choice of movie or music better the third time. I honestly don't know why sometimes something works and sometimes it doesn't. Probably something logical, but sometimes I think it might be voodoo.
> 
> I hope I don't offend any PETA members here, but if it is just voodoo, I would be willing to sacrifice a chicken to appease the A/V gods if it will help.
> If anyone else is interested please p.m. me.
> Also, if anyone knows the proper way to offer sacrifices, please p.m. me, as this will be my first sacrifice. Unless you want to count the time I accidentally dropped a chicken breast on the charcoal before the grate was in place.
> 
> 
> Tom


Yep, Im not sure what did it, as PRIOR to the power off/disconnect, I did reseat all HDMIs. Must have been the Voodoo chicken!!!


----------



## thestewman

That doesn't sound right. The D2 when connected properly and with the correct setup settings should only be sending a .1 signal which should not overload your Velodyne. I would double check your D2 setup and how it is connected. Then go through your Velodyne setup


----------



## thestewman

I am using the avs mobile app and it leaves a lot to desire. Reply does not always post to the post replied to and you cannot edit or change your reply. The above was to bigdaddy999 post


----------



## bigdaddy999

thestewman said:


> That doesn't sound right. The D2 when connected properly and with the correct setup settings should only be sending a .1 signal which should not overload your Velodyne. I would double check your D2 setup and how it is connected. Then go through your Velodyne setup


Thanks. They're connected via RCA line outs from the D2 so the it can mange the room correction. I'm bypassing the Velo's crossovers, and these don't have any other "setup" once calibrated with the D2. The connections are all fine and solid, so I don't think that's it. IN the Anthem thread I asked about something in the manual called Peak Base Limit or similar, which is documented, but not available in the D2's menus, from what I can see.

I guess I'm really trying to determine what caused the noises I heard from that sub.


----------



## thestewman

Check that you DID not select 2 sub's in the D2 setup. Also I assume you have one sub connected to Sub 1 and the other to Sub 2 ?
When you say the Velo crossover is bypassed, you have the external control turned all the way up ? If all these are correct I suggest you rerun 
ARC and check the Sub volume.


----------



## bigdaddy999

thestewman said:


> Check that you DID not select 2 sub's in the D2 setup. Also I assume you have one sub connected to Sub 1 and the other to Sub 2 ?
> When you say the Velo crossover is bypassed, you have the external control turned all the way up ? If all these are correct I suggest you rerun
> ARC and check the Sub volume.


Thanks for the reply. 

I have 1 sub in the D2 setup. Yes, 1 sub connected to Sub 1 and the other to Sub 2.

Sub volume is NOT all the way up. It's more like at 9 o'clock on the dial for each of them, at the second "dot" up from minimum. I calibrated each sub separately using the D2 pink noise at a SPRL-meter measured 74db before running the ARC. Then ARC set the parameters and I left the volume controls as they were on the sub. 

I sent Velodyne a message asking about the noise and they called me back (excellent, excellent response, BTW) and suggested I pull the plate amp to see if it might be that the driver is hitting some of the wires. They offered an extension for the driver wire connections to allow them to be further buried in the baffle material. I find it hard to believe the wires are making this sound, but they said that bottoming out would be more like a chuffing or "farting" noise, and didn't think that was my issue. I'll pull the plate in the next day or two.


----------



## tngiloy

bigdaddy999 said:


> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> I have 1 sub in the D2 setup. Yes, 1 sub connected to Sub 1 and the other to Sub 2.
> 
> Sub volume is NOT all the way up. It's more like at 9 o'clock on the dial for each of them, at the second "dot" up from minimum. I calibrated each sub separately using the D2 pink noise at a SPRL-meter measured 74db before running the ARC. Then ARC set the parameters and I left the volume controls as they were on the sub.
> 
> I sent Velodyne a message asking about the noise and they called me back (excellent, excellent response, BTW) and suggested I pull the plate amp to see if it might be that the driver is hitting some of the wires. They offered an extension for the driver wire connections to allow them to be further buried in the baffle material. I find it hard to believe the wires are making this sound, but they said that bottoming out would be more like a chuffing or "farting" noise, and didn't think that was my issue. I'll pull the plate in the next day or two.


 
In ARC did you set the subs to 'flat' ? 
When set to 'flat' ARC does not do a 6dB or 12dB roll-off, which is fine if your sub has built in protection, but not advised if your sub does not have the built in protection. Ask velodyne if your sub has built in protection. If your not sure, set the subs to 'auto' in ARC.




Tom


----------



## bigdaddy999

tngiloy said:


> In ARC did you set the subs to 'flat' ?
> When set to 'flat' ARC does not do a 6dB or 12dB roll-off, which is fine if your sub has built in protection, but not advised if your sub does not have the built in protection. Ask velodyne if your sub has built in protection. If your not sure, set the subs to 'auto' in ARC.
> 
> 
> Tom


ARC was set to Auto for the calibration. Thanks.


----------



## AVfile

bigdaddy999 said:


> ARC was set to Auto for the calibration. Thanks.


You mean in the "Advanced Target Customization" window "Subwoofer High-Pass Order" is set to Auto?


----------



## bigdaddy999

AVfile said:


> You mean in the "Advanced Target Customization" window "Subwoofer High-Pass Order" is set to Auto?


Yes. Auto in the Advanced. Definitely not set at "Flat".

I ran the calibration in auto mode as well, so did not try to tweak the default settings.


----------



## AVfile

bigdaddy999 said:


> Yes. Auto in the Advanced. Definitely not set at "Flat".
> 
> 
> 
> I ran the calibration in auto mode as well, so did not try to tweak the default settings.



There are other undocumented settings there that might be "safer" for Christopher Nolan movies, but I wouldn't recommend using them without checking with Anthem Tech Support first. Send them your ARC file and they can advise.


----------



## gerard1meehan

So new Atmos AVM 60 at Munich Audio show? Anybody got the scoop?


----------



## stanger89

What do we think, $7500? $8500? It's kind of looking like my 50V may be my last Anthem, last SSP at least, which is a shame. It would be a nice change if they'd pull out the video processor and drop the price, but I'm sure that won't happen.


----------



## gerard1meehan

Back in November when there were some rumblings on hear about new units I reached out to my dealer. he mentioned something about a pre pro that was at a lower price point. From the pictures online it looks like its lacking a bunch of inputs.


Too early to tell


----------



## stanger89

Here's hoping, but every AVM so far has cost more than the last.

-edit, I should read more carefully, from the AVForums post (that I thought I read  )
"...without the hi-end price tag! More details to follow at CEDIA."


----------



## AVfile

gerard1meehan said:


> he mentioned something about a pre pro that was at a lower price point.


It better be cheaper... MRX-like and no longer made in Canada 

https://www.avforums.com/threads/anthem-avm60-new-atmos-dts-x-processor.1957993/


----------



## bluemark81

*12V trigger question*

I am trying to use my 12V trigger on my D2v to power on my Simaudio Titan power amp. My Titan trigger specs are 300 ohms and 40 mA. I've pressed the toggle switch on my Titan to the on position. I've tried connecting to both trigger 1 and 2 on my D2v, but it fails to initiate startup of my amp. The triggers are enabled in my menu and the main power is selected in the setup. Any suggestions?


----------



## tranle

bluemark81 said:


> I am trying to use my 12V trigger on my D2v to power on my Simaudio Titan power amp. My Titan trigger specs are 300 ohms and 40 mA. I've pressed the toggle switch on my Titan to the on position. I've tried connecting to both trigger 1 and 2 on my D2v, but it fails to initiate startup of my amp. The triggers are enabled in my menu and the main power is selected in the setup. Any suggestions?


Did you do the setup as documented in the manual Chapter 3.11 (page 40), by default all trigger are off.


----------



## bluemark81

tranle said:


> Did you do the setup as documented in the manual Chapter 3.11 (page 40), by default all trigger are off.


Yes, as indicated: "_The triggers are enabled in my menu and the main power is selected in the setup._"


----------



## tranle

bluemark81 said:


> Yes, as indicated: "_The triggers are enabled in my menu and the main power is selected in the setup._"


Then the other thing to check is if you have volt meter if the Anthem is outputing 12v. I had some problem with a cheap mono jack that I bought and it did not make proper contact.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The most common problem is that the mono-mini jack is not fully inserted into the socket on the Anthem. It takes some effort.

The next most common problem is that the trigger input on the external device needs opposite polarity to function. I.e., swap the tip and ring wires. The specs page at the back of the Anthem Manual gives the polarity on the socket: Tip is positive and sleeve is ground. Check the manual for the external device as to what it needs.

Some external devices need to be set to trigger on a constant voltage instead of an on/off pulse of the Trigger voltage.
--Bob


----------



## bluemark81

It turns out that my Simaudio requires a mono cable. I was originally using a stereo. All is good now. Thanks for your input.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Glad you got it figured out. Yep, that's a common problem, too. 
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

*THX Trim Levels*

Hi
I was tweeking around and noticed when I engage THX and set the "On The Fly" levels that they were not reseting to 0db after I exited out and reentered. After I exited I watched Directv so I know THX was disengaged. I loaded Factory Defaults, then uploaded user settings. I tweeked it up and they still were not reseting to 0db. Any help would be appreciated as I love my d2v.

Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Hi
> I was tweeking around and noticed when I engage THX and set the "On The Fly" levels that they were not reseting to 0db after I exited out and reentered. After I exited I watched Directv so I know THX was disengaged. I loaded Factory Defaults, then uploaded user settings. I tweeked it up and they still were not reseting to 0db. Any help would be appreciated as I love my d2v.
> 
> Rob


Strange that should reset it

Did you try rotating thru several sources and returning to the source with the problem ?


----------



## solly46

I just recently purchased a D2V non 3D unit. Calibration has been completed. Are there any recommended tweaks that can be made once ARC has been performed?

Sony XBR65x850b 4k Oppo BDP-103 Uverse


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ In Setup for ADC check that 2-channel Analog input sampling rate is raised to 96KHz. 6-channel sampling rate should already be at 96KHz.

In Setup > Source Setup check that Dolby Volume is OFF and Room EQ is ON for each Source line. Note that if you use ANALOG DIRECT for any Source lines set for Analog audio input then you are bypassing ARC processing for that Source, even though Room EQ is ON.

In Setup > Mode Presets make sure none of the lines include enabling THX post processing.
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Hi thestewsman
By sources do you mean inputs? If so then yes. I turned off bluray which I had the THX engaged on then went into Directv then went back to THX bluray and settings did not display 0dbs 
I'm sorry for the delay. I'm up north and have a bad signal

Rob


----------



## vagrahb

Hi Guys,
Been following this thread for quite some time. I recently got myself an AVM 50V. I just wanted to confirm if the AVM supports CEC commands ? There is no mention about it anywhere on the Anthem Web site. I currently have a HTPC connected to the pre-pro and it has a CEC adapter and it powers on the TV when its turned on / goes to sleep when tv is powered off etc. I would like to do the same on the processor. Is there any setting that needs to be turned on in the processor ? 

Thanks!


----------



## Orbitron

ARC was done on my D2v3D 2 years ago. Recently I changed the crossover settings so they are all 80 Hz and turned off ADV SETTINGS. I'm pleased with what I'm hearing.
Should a new ARC be done?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

vagrahb said:


> Hi Guys,
> Been following this thread for quite some time. I recently got myself an AVM 50V. I just wanted to confirm if the AVM supports CEC commands ? There is no mention about it anywhere on the Anthem Web site. I currently have a HTPC connected to the pre-pro and it has a CEC adapter and it powers on the TV when its turned on / goes to sleep when tv is powered off etc. I would like to do the same on the processor. Is there any setting that needs to be turned on in the processor ?
> 
> Thanks!


No CEC support in the AVM or Statement D2 prepros. The basic problem with CEC is that manufacturers are allowed to make proprietary implementations, meaning you get problems unless you buy all your gear from the same manufacturer.

I suggest you consider doing this sort of stuff with a programmable remote control instead -- such as the Logitech Harmony products. You can set those to turn on/off the correct set of your gear for each "activity". For example, you might want to turn on the AVM along with the TV for watching a movie, but WITHOUT the TV for playing a CD.
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Orbitron said:


> ARC was done on my D2v3D 2 years ago. Recently I changed the crossover settings so they are all 80 Hz and turned off ADV SETTINGS. I'm pleased with what I'm hearing.
> Should a new ARC be done?


I'd say yes. Note that when you redo the ARC setup it will turn the ADVANCED setting back on and upload the Crossover choices it calculates are best.
--Bob


----------



## stanger89

Bob Pariseau said:


> No CEC support in the AVM or Statement D2 prepros. The basic problem with CEC is that manufacturers are allowed to make proprietary implementations, meaning you get problems unless you buy all your gear from the same manufacturer.
> 
> I suggest you consider doing this sort of stuff with a programmable remote control instead -- such as the Logitech Harmony products. You can set those to turn on/off the correct set of your gear for each "activity". For example, you might want to turn on the AVM along with the TV for watching a movie, but WITHOUT the TV for playing a CD.
> --Bob


RS232 would be an option too.


----------



## Orbitron

Bob Pariseau said:


> I'd say yes. Note that when you redo the ARC setup it will turn the ADVANCED setting back on and upload the Crossover choices it calculates are best.
> --Bob


So my current ARC with ADV Settings of Front Xover 60 Hz, Center Xover 65 Hz, Surnd Xover 60 Hz are what the Anthem calculates to be appropriate?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ ARC calculates and uploads a number of different things including the Crossover settings, the speaker volume trims, and the Room Correction Parameters (which are not visible in the Setup menu). These work as a set. If you change just the Crossovers, for example, while still leaving Room EQ = ON in your Setup > Source Setup lines, then you will be listening to a "broken" ARC solution. Its Room Correction Parameters will no longer be operating in combination with the Crossover settings ARC expected.

If you've been playing around in the audio settings after doing your ARC setup, you may have changed some of the things the ARC solution depends upon. The easiest way to fix that is to simply re-Upload your existing ARC solution.

However, if your current ARC solution is as old as you mention, it may also be that things have changed in your room since that ARC setup was done -- different furniture, different speakers location/pointing, etc.

So as I said, make sure you've got the latest version of the ARC setup application on your PC, and the latest firmware in the D2v, and redo the ARC setup "just in case". Then you know you'll have a good ARC solution for evaluation.
--Bob


----------



## Orbitron

With ADV Setting On, how does one know if ARC set the speakers to Large or Small?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ARC never sets speakers LARGE on its own. In the Targets window of the ARC setup application you can force ARC to treat speakers as Full Range, which means no Crossover processing.

I forget how that shows in the D2v Setup menu when the ARC settings are Uploaded.

The Rule of Thumb, however, is that if you have a decent Subwoofer you should never set any of your speakers to Full Range. Even if the speaker is spec'ed as Full Range, it is ALMOST ALWAYS better to set a low Crossover value for that speaker rather than no Crossover at all.

You have to huff a lot of air to produce the lowest bass frequencies AT VOLUME and it's a rare speaker that can do this anywhere close to as well as a decent subwoofer. Typically you'd have to have a speaker with its own, powered woofer -- basically a subwoofer built inside its cabinet.

Keep in mind that the Crossover rolls into effect over about an octave (factor of 2 in frequency). So if you set, say, a 40Hz Crossover for your "full range" speaker, you are actually expecting that speaker to produce quality audio down to 20Hz.
--Bob


----------



## etrexler

*Anthem D2 subwoofers not functioning*

Hi Bob and group,

I've been following for years on this forum. Within the past year I've noticed that my active subwoofers (2) no longer output sound (bass). They are active, are powered on, and the from light showing activity remains red (green when working). I can't find a single config setting in the setup on the D2 that changes their behavior. They used to work and stopped, but I can't tell if it was related to a change that I made or an issue with the subwoofer output. 

Have you ever heard of this? Any ideas?


Thanks,

eric


----------



## MitchPope

etrexler said:


> Hi Bob and group,
> 
> I've been following for years on this forum. Within the past year I've noticed that my active subwoofers (2) no longer output sound (bass). They are active, are powered on, and the from light showing activity remains red (green when working). I can't find a single config setting in the setup on the D2 that changes their behavior. They used to work and stopped, but I can't tell if it was related to a change that I made or an issue with the subwoofer output.
> 
> Have you ever heard of this? Any ideas?


Have you tried connecting a sub to a different source? I had the same issue, but something in my sub had fried. Still turned on, amp display lit up, but no sound. Thankfully SVS has a 5-year warranty and a plate amp swap cured it. I agree it is odd that both would die around the same time.


----------



## tngiloy

etrexler said:


> Hi Bob and group,
> 
> I've been following for years on this forum. Within the past year I've noticed that my active subwoofers (2) no longer output sound (bass). They are active, are powered on, and the from light showing activity remains red (green when working). I can't find a single config setting in the setup on the D2 that changes their behavior. They used to work and stopped, but I can't tell if it was related to a change that I made or an issue with the subwoofer output.
> 
> Have you ever heard of this? Any ideas?Thanks,
> eric


 
If I understand correctly you're saying that the red light on your subs is not turning green. Many subs have a 'standby' setting to reduce power consumption when not in use, and will power on (light will turn green) when they receive a signal. But the signal need to be sufficient to trigger the sub. It sounds like your subs may not be receiving a strong enough signal. From you ARC chart it appears that your subs should be turned on in settings as long as ARC is turned on in the sources. So be sure to check your sources and make sure ARC ROOM EQ is 'on'. In SPEAKER CONFIGURATION open the movie config and see if 'advanced settings ' are on. If ARC is loaded it should be 'on' and crossovers for your speakers should be the same as they are on the ARC targets page (except for the sub cross-over/cutoff thing that we don't need to get into here).
If those settings are OK, then check to make sure the 'on the fly' setting for your subs has not been turned down. While listening to a movie push the 'SUB-LFE' button on the Anthem remote. It should read'+0.0'. If has been turned down return it to '+0.0'. See the 'OPERATION/LEVEL TRIM' section of your manual for a better explanation.
See if your subs have an 'always on' setting. Many have 'off', 'standby' and 'on' power choices. If you can turn them to always 'on' it should turn your light green, which means that the sub's amp is on. If you can set their power to 'on' try playing a disc with good bass and LFE and listen. If you still can't hear the sub, place your hand on the sub speaker and feel for any movement.


Hope this helps. As MicthPope said, its unlikely both subs would die at the same time. Its probably a screwy setting.


----------



## dmusoke

It seems I prefer Analog Direct when playing Hi-Rez stereo sources with my Electrostats (Martin-Logan Spires) which radiate sound equally from the front and back panels. But I want to correct a dip in the 100-300Hz region and hope the tone controls would help here. Would they work in Analog-Direct mode?


David


----------



## thestewman

dmusoke said:


> It seems I prefer Analog Direct when playing Hi-Rez stereo sources with my Electrostats (Martin-Logan Spires) which radiate sound equally from the front and back panels. But I want to correct a dip in the 100-300Hz region and hope the tone controls would help here. Would they work in Analog-Direct mode?
> 
> 
> David


Sorry David but the controls to not work on Analog Direct.

How are you determining you have this dip ?
Other ways to control it would be speaker positioning and the physical room characteristics.

On second thought you said 100-300hz . 320hz is the crossover frequency. Might be important


----------



## dmusoke

thestewman said:


> Sorry David but the controls to not work on Analog Direct.
> 
> How are you determining you have this dip ?
> Other ways to control it would be speaker positioning and the physical room characteristics.
> 
> On second thought you said 100-300hz . 320hz is the crossover frequency. Might be important


 
Bummer...I thought so.


I looked at my ARC 'before' plots to identify the dip which is actually between 100-200Hz. I thought using mild EQ would help solve the problem.


Guess will again have to try placement options to see if it helps, didn't succeed last time around.


----------



## stanger89

Did you try ARC but limiting the correction to something like 500Hz?


----------



## dmusoke

Good idea...not sure why I never thought of that...


----------



## etrexler

tngiloy said:


> If I understand correctly you're saying that the red light on your subs is not turning green. Many subs have a 'standby' setting to reduce power consumption when not in use, and will power on (light will turn green) when they receive a signal. But the signal need to be sufficient to trigger the sub. It sounds like your subs may not be receiving a strong enough signal. From you ARC chart it appears that your subs should be turned on in settings as long as ARC is turned on in the sources. So be sure to check your sources and make sure ARC ROOM EQ is 'on'. In SPEAKER CONFIGURATION open the movie config and see if 'advanced settings ' are on. If ARC is loaded it should be 'on' and crossovers for your speakers should be the same as they are on the ARC targets page (except for the sub cross-over/cutoff thing that we don't need to get into here).
> If those settings are OK, then check to make sure the 'on the fly' setting for your subs has not been turned down. While listening to a movie push the 'SUB-LFE' button on the Anthem remote. It should read'+0.0'. If has been turned down return it to '+0.0'. See the 'OPERATION/LEVEL TRIM' section of your manual for a better explanation.
> See if your subs have an 'always on' setting. Many have 'off', 'standby' and 'on' power choices. If you can turn them to always 'on' it should turn your light green, which means that the sub's amp is on. If you can set their power to 'on' try playing a disc with good bass and LFE and listen. If you still can't hear the sub, place your hand on the sub speaker and feel for any movement.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps. As MicthPope said, its unlikely both subs would die at the same time. Its probably a screwy setting.



All is set as expected, no change in behavior. The Subs are not working. SUB-LFE is set to 0.

Eric


----------



## thestewman

dmusoke said:


> Bummer...I thought so.
> 
> 
> I looked at my ARC 'before' plots to identify the dip which is actually between 100-200Hz. I thought using mild EQ would help solve the problem.
> 
> 
> Guess will again have to try placement options to see if it helps, didn't succeed last time around.


I noticed the dip is right before a rise at about 35hz where the only control the speakers have is effective.
I would try Quick Measure and turning down the bass at 35hz and see if that might eliminate the dip the woofer makes at 150hz


----------



## tngiloy

etrexler said:


> All is set as expected, no change in behavior. The Subs are not working. SUB-LFE is set to 0.
> 
> Eric



Before you buy new subs try a couple more things.
First, go to the LEVEL CALIBRATION section of the D2 menu and set to auto (pink noise will cycle thru your speakers), or 'manual' and choose 'movie sub' or 'music sub'. You should be getting sound from your subs. 
BTW, what is the sub setting in this menu? It should have been set by ARC. 
Do you get any sound??


If that didn't work, did you try connecting your subs directly to a source as MitchPope suggested?
Some DVD/Bluray players have analog rca out connections (and all cd players do). Connect the 'sub out' (or RT/LT) directly to one of your subs and see if you can get any sound or movement from your subs. Do you get any sound now??


If all fails then it may be time for some new subs (or sub). Like MitchPope, I have had very positive experiences with SVS. The only downside is that they are a direct from website seller--no brick and mortar stores-- and you would need to wait for delivery.


As mentioned before, it is unlikely that both subs would go bad at the same time, but it is possible that they went bad one at a time and you didn't notice until the second died.


----------



## etrexler

*2 subs*

No pink noise on either sub. light still red, no sound be ear or feel.


Eric


----------



## tngiloy

etrexler said:


> No pink noise on either sub. light still red, no sound be ear or feel.
> 
> 
> Eric



Just to be complete, please hook your subs (or at least one of them)directly to a 'sub out' output from a DVD or bluray player and play a bass heavy movie. This will bypass the D2 and verify the problem is with the subs, and not in the Anthem. 
I would want to be positive where the problem is before buying new subs.
If you get no sound or movement, and you are sure the sub is set up correctly, then it may be time to start shopping for new subs. If you do get sound, then it will be time for more trouble-shooting.


----------



## bohaiboy

*D2V Remote*

Any pros or cons to using the D2V remote as a master remote? The processor is tucked away in an A/V closet and I will soon have a Zektor HDBaseT HDMI that has a built in IR. Had previously relied on RF signals.


----------



## Ed Weinman

I have a Philips Laser Disc player which still works (!). It has a s-video output which the D2v 3d apparently accepts. 

How do I get the sound though?


----------



## drhankz

Ed Weinman said:


> I have a Philips Laser Disc player which still works (!). It has a s-video output which the D2v 3d apparently accepts.
> 
> How do I get the sound though?


Red and White RCA cables - old fashion ANALOG


----------



## Ed Weinman

drhankz said:


> Red and White RCA cables - old fashion ANALOG


...and the D2v 3D will play both the picture and the sound? Is it a matter of programing the D2 to do this?


----------



## thestewman

drhankz said:


> Red and White RCA cables - old fashion ANALOG


If I recall some had surround sound in the format of AC-3
This would require one of 3 choices depending on the player

Optical
Coaxial
Or 6 analog cables


----------



## thestewman

Ed Weinman said:


> ...and the D2v 3D will play both the picture and the sound? Is it a matter of programing the D2 to do this


Select an input source. You have 8.
Check the manual as S-video is a little different in setup. The D2v converts it to HDMI out
In the setup select the proper video input connection type
In the setup select the correct audi input source


----------



## Ed Weinman

thestewman said:


> Select an input source. You have 8.
> Check the manual as S-video is a little different in setup. The D2v converts it to HDMI out
> In the setup select the proper video input connection type
> In the setup select the correct audi input source


Thanks, thestewman and drhankz, I'll give it a try.


----------



## bohaiboy

*Baluns Question*

So I just installed a new Zektor HDbaseT balun. The HDCP light does not come on and the HDMI. Manufacturer suggest that there is a handshake issue on the HDMI. Here is his comment:

Any comments from this group?

"It sounds like a compatibility issue with the receiver and HDBaseT. This is not uncommon. Please make sure your receiver has the latest firmware downloaded. It is also quite possible that this product has an HDMI clock stretching issue which would related again to chipset compatibility between HDBaseT and the HDMI chips. In 99% of these type of related issues, an inexpensive 1X2 splitter is placed between the AVR and the SoloCAT HD transmitter. This reclocks the HDMI sink signal and allows normal operation. 

This is the recommended solution from Valens Semiconductor, the manufacturer of HDBaseT. "


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Start with the basics. Make sure all the plugs are fully inserted into the correct sockets.

Some Balun hardware has switch settings which need to be set correctly for things like source vs. destination or enabling copy protection. If the Balun needs external power, make sure that power is actually live. (I'm not familiar with your particular Balun.)

Use video generated by the Anthem to test basic HDMI connection functionality. I.e., don't complicate things at this point by trying to use a Source device. This would include the Setup menu and the Video Source Adjust menu. These are not copy protected signals -- so HDCP is not required.

When testing, start with 480p resolution. 480p (not 480i) is the "simplest" HDMI signal. Then try 1080i then 1080p. Also start with 8-bit Data video output from the Anthem. Select these in the Setup > Video Output Configuration settings. You can access the Setup settings using just the Front Panel Display. The Setup menu pictures in the Manual are helpful for finding your way around while doing this. Or of course you could hook up directly to another display while you make the settings adjustments, then go back to the Balun.

Note that the Video Output does not actually change until you exit from that sub-menu.
--Bob


----------



## DenonAVFreak

*Audio Source reads “Lossy” on Video Processing Menu with DTS-MA & Dolby TrueHD - why?*

Audio Source reading “Lossy” on Video Processing Menu with DTS-MA & Dolby True HD material – Why? 

Help requested! I searched the forum and couldn’t find this issue discussed and am in need of answers. My D2v3D (FW v.3.10) reads “Audio Source: Lossy” on the Info screen of the Video Processing Menu when DTS-MA and Dolby True HD (DT-HD) audio streams are fed from my Oppo when set to Bitstream. When the Oppo is set to LPCM the D2v reads: 8ch fs: 96k for 7.1 channel material and 6ch fs: 96k for 5.1channel material. Is this normal? Am I actually getting Lossy audio when the D2v reads Lossy or not?

Shouldn’t the readings for DTS-MA and DT-HD be the same as for LPCM? Aren’t both DTS-MA and Dolby True HD “Lossless” audio streams? If not why not?

Should I leave my Oppo Set to LPCM to ensure the D2v is seeing a multi-channel rather than a Lossy audio source? 

I thought Bitstream was the preferred player setting to ensure that DTS-MA and DT-HD audio streams were being decoded (and displayed) by the D2v where setting to LPCM ensured that the decoding was done in the player – is this incorrect? 

Can others check what their D2v’s are showing on the info screen of the Video Processing Menu* when sending DTS-MA & Dolby True HD material via Bitstream or Auto? *This menu is discussed in section 4.11 of the manual.

To get to this screen press and hold 7 (on—screen) on your remote and the Video Processing Menu will pop up. Arrow over to the info tab to display the screen and post what is populated in the Audio Source field.

Thanks and I’ll await the findings.


----------



## thestewman

DenonAVFreak said:


> Audio Source reading “Lossy” on Video Processing Menu with DTS-MA & Dolby True HD material – Why?
> 
> Help requested! I searched the forum and couldn’t find this issue discussed and am in need of answers. My D2v3D (FW v.3.10) reads “Audio Source: Lossy” on the Info screen of the Video Processing Menu when DTS-MA and Dolby True HD (DT-HD) audio streams are fed from my Oppo when set to Bitstream. When the Oppo is set to LPCM the D2v reads: 8ch fs: 96k for 7.1 channel material and 6ch fs: 96k for 5.1channel material. Is this normal? Am I actually getting Lossy audio when the D2v reads Lossy or not?
> 
> Shouldn’t the readings for DTS-MA and DT-HD be the same as for LPCM? Aren’t both DTS-MA and Dolby True HD “Lossless” audio streams? If not why not?
> 
> Should I leave my Oppo Set to LPCM to ensure the D2v is seeing a multi-channel rather than a Lossy audio source?
> 
> I thought Bitstream was the preferred player setting to ensure that DTS-MA and DT-HD audio streams were being decoded (and displayed) by the D2v where setting to LPCM ensured that the decoding was done in the player – is this incorrect?
> 
> Can others check what their D2v’s are showing on the info screen of the Video Processing Menu* when sending DTS-MA & Dolby True HD material via Bitstream or Auto? *This menu is discussed in section 4.11 of the manual.
> 
> To get to this screen press and hold 7 (on—screen) on your remote and the Video Processing Menu will pop up. Arrow over to the info tab to display the screen and post what is populated in the Audio Source field.
> 
> Thanks and I’ll await the findings.


I just checked my D2v 3D. I have firmware ver 3.09 and did not upgrade as it works flawlessly.
I never paid any attention or noticed the audio info line before. I always went by the OSD display when you pressed the volume button or the enter button.
Here is what my unit displays and it is interesting. Looks like there might be an Anthem bug or maybe it is the OPPO that is responsible for the erroneous indicator

Using a OPPO 95 BluRay player set at Bitstream and the audio at 192k
All HD Lossless audio both DTS HD Master and Dolby True HD turn on the DTS or Dolby led and display in the video processing menu as LOWLOSS

Again using the OPPO 95 BluRay player set at LPCM and the audio set at 192k
All HD Lossless audio both DTS HD Master and Dolby True HD display in the video processing menu as 8ch fs:192k or 6ch fs: 192k

Now here is what is interesting.

I have a UnRaid NAS that feeds my stored video files to a C200 PopCorn Hour Video player.
Using that setup all the video files with display LOSSLESS in the Anthem video processing menu
and they also display correctly DTS HD Master and Dolby True HD from the volume or enter button.


----------



## etrexler

tngiloy said:


> If I understand correctly you're saying that the red light on your subs is not turning green. Many subs have a 'standby' setting to reduce power consumption when not in use, and will power on (light will turn green) when they receive a signal. But the signal need to be sufficient to trigger the sub. It sounds like your subs may not be receiving a strong enough signal. From you ARC chart it appears that your subs should be turned on in settings as long as ARC is turned on in the sources. So be sure to check your sources and make sure ARC ROOM EQ is 'on'. In SPEAKER CONFIGURATION open the movie config and see if 'advanced settings ' are on. If ARC is loaded it should be 'on' and crossovers for your speakers should be the same as they are on the ARC targets page (except for the sub cross-over/cutoff thing that we don't need to get into here).
> If those settings are OK, then check to make sure the 'on the fly' setting for your subs has not been turned down. While listening to a movie push the 'SUB-LFE' button on the Anthem remote. It should read'+0.0'. If has been turned down return it to '+0.0'. See the 'OPERATION/LEVEL TRIM' section of your manual for a better explanation.
> See if your subs have an 'always on' setting. Many have 'off', 'standby' and 'on' power choices. If you can turn them to always 'on' it should turn your light green, which means that the sub's amp is on. If you can set their power to 'on' try playing a disc with good bass and LFE and listen. If you still can't hear the sub, place your hand on the sub speaker and feel for any movement.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps. As MicthPope said, its unlikely both subs would die at the same time. Its probably a screwy setting.



Both Subs had bad amps. Repairing them.


Eric


----------



## DenonAVFreak

*RE: Audio Source Reading Lossy*

Thanks thestewman for checking your readings and posting your findings. I wonder if I should rollback to FW version 3.09? It’s interesting that you see readings of LOWLOSS and LOSSLESS and I only see LOSSY when our Oppo’s are set to Bitstream. When they are set to LPCM they appear to read the same. (When I set my Oppo to 192k I see that as well, I just had mine set to 96k.) 

What I really wonder is if I am actually getting LOSSY audio when my Oppo is set to Bitstream. I’d rather see LOWLOSS than LOSSY as it makes me believe that perhaps the D2v is somehow seeing a “less lossy” audio stream if that’s even possible! Of course I’d ultimately prefer to see LOSSLESS or what is displayed when the player is set to LPCM.

I’d like to hear from others that are running Firmware Version 3.10 as well to see if they are getting the same readings as I am.

I wonder what FW version Bob is running?


----------



## thestewman

DenonAVFreak said:


> Thanks thestewman for checking your readings and posting your findings. I wonder if I should rollback to FW version 3.09? It’s interesting that you see readings of LOWLOSS and LOSSLESS and I only see LOSSY when our Oppo’s are set to Bitstream. When they are set to LPCM they appear to read the same. (When I set my Oppo to 192k I see that as well, I just had mine set to 96k.)
> 
> What I really wonder is if I am actually getting LOSSY audio when my Oppo is set to Bitstream. I’d rather see LOWLOSS than LOSSY as it makes me believe that perhaps the D2v is somehow seeing a “less lossy” audio stream if that’s even possible! Of course I’d ultimately prefer to see LOSSLESS or what is displayed when the player is set to LPCM.
> 
> I’d like to hear from others that are running Firmware Version 3.10 as well to see if they are getting the same readings as I am.
> 
> I wonder what FW version Bob is running?


Like i said previously maybe its the OPPO that is sending the incorrect data. My other source is correct.
All of them display correctly in the OS display but only the OPPO displays incorrectly with the Video Processing Display
I hear no difference between Bitstream or LPCM


----------



## tngiloy

etrexler said:


> Both Subs had bad amps. Repairing them.
> 
> 
> Eric


Glad to see you figured it out. Hope the amps were still under warrantee. Hope the new amps last longer.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DenonAVFreak said:


> Thanks thestewman for checking your readings and posting your findings. I wonder if I should rollback to FW version 3.09? It’s interesting that you see readings of LOWLOSS and LOSSLESS and I only see LOSSY when our Oppo’s are set to Bitstream. When they are set to LPCM they appear to read the same. (When I set my Oppo to 192k I see that as well, I just had mine set to 96k.)
> 
> What I really wonder is if I am actually getting LOSSY audio when my Oppo is set to Bitstream. I’d rather see LOWLOSS than LOSSY as it makes me believe that perhaps the D2v is somehow seeing a “less lossy” audio stream if that’s even possible! Of course I’d ultimately prefer to see LOSSLESS or what is displayed when the player is set to LPCM.
> 
> I’d like to hear from others that are running Firmware Version 3.10 as well to see if they are getting the same readings as I am.
> 
> I wonder what FW version Bob is running?


My understanding is the bogus information shown in the Video Source Adjust > Info panel is simply a bug in the formatting of that Info display.
--Bob


----------



## AVfile

thestewman said:


> Like i said previously maybe its the OPPO that is sending the incorrect data. My other source is correct.
> 
> All of them display correctly in the OS display but only the OPPO displays incorrectly with the Video Processing Display



Interesting. By any chance do you have a different Video Out Config for the two sources in the Anthem?

I've never given much credence to the Audio portion of the Video processors status. I'm actually bypassing the video processor so I don't care what it says.


----------



## DenonAVFreak

*RE: Audio Source reading “Lossy”*



Bob Pariseau said:


> My understanding is the bogus information shown in the Video Source Adjust > Info panel is simply a bug in the formatting of that Info display.
> --Bob


Hi Bob, Thanks for your reply. Some questions it raises for me are:

If the bogus information shown in the Video Source Adjust menu is just a bug in the formatting of the info display then shouldn’t the display say the same thing (right or wrong) with the same input signal?

From our Oppos, When set to Bitstream, thestewman sees “LOWLOSS”displayed while I see “LOSSY” displayed. When set to LPCM, we both see “8ch fs: 192k or 6ch fs: 192k” displayed. 

Is this difference in what is displayed when set to Bitstream to be attributed to the difference in our D2v firmware versions (3.09 vs. 3.10) or perhaps different FW versions in our Oppos and therefore should be ignored and credence given only to what is displayed on the front panel of theD2v?

More importantly, is it safe to presume both Oppos are outputting lossless audio when set to Bitstream and our D2v's are both accurately seeing this audio as lossless? 

 Thanks again!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes, it is safe to assume the OPPO's are putting out "lossless" when you Bitstream TrueHD or DTS-HD MA.

The info shown by the Select button displays comes straight from the meta-data of the incoming digital stream.

As for why a bug would produce different Video Source Adjust menu info-display results in different test cases, that's hardly a puzzle. It's a bug. Logic goes out the window.

(At a guess, there may be a difference in how the bug reflects 7.1 Bitstream input vs. 5.1, or different sample rates within the Bitstream. And there could even be a difference in the bug in 3.09 vs. 3.10. Or it could just be picking up random data from memory, meaning the test result will vary between units according to what's lying around in their memory. The point is, it's evidently just a bug in how that info display gets formatted.)
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

It would be a plus if Anthem 
would address and correct it.


----------



## Texas steve

thestewman said:


> It would be a plus if Anthem
> would address and correct it.



Anthem has not addressed or updated anything for regular D2V owners in quite sometime! The last release of 3.09J and up caused problems with non 3D D2vs


----------



## RobDec

Hi
Correct me if Im wrong. While watching Lord of the Rings (FOTR) I had a audio dropout. My front panel on my D2v 3d read: (1st line)
Bluray DTS MA 1080p, (2nd line)6.1 35.0 db. After the dropout the first line read: Bluray Digital 1080p, (Second line) 35.0 dbs, as if it wasn't receiving a audio signal. 
Is this a handshake issues? It happened in the middle of the movie. My player is an Oppo 103d.

Thanks

Rob


----------



## tngiloy

RobDec said:


> Hi
> Correct me if Im wrong. While watching Lord of the Rings (FOTR) I had a audio dropout. My front panel on my D2v 3d read: (1st line)
> Bluray DTS MA 1080p, (2nd line)6.1 35.0 db. After the dropout the first line read: Bluray Digital 1080p, (Second line) 35.0 dbs, as if it wasn't receiving a audio signal.
> Is this a handshake issues? It happened in the middle of the movie. My player is an Oppo 103d.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Rob


 
Rob,
It sounds as if your disc switched audio from lossless DTS-MA to the lossy core audio.
Did you still get audio, or did it completely go away? Why?? It could be from a number of causes. 


Dirty/damaged disc. Did you inspect the disc?
Disc was authored badly. Have you played this disc before w/o problems?
Did you bring up the Oppo on-screen info or audio? What did it show the audio --DTS-MA 7.1 or DD 5.1 after the problem ?? Did the D2v front panel change from DTS to Dolby Digital (blue light indicators just to the left of the display screen), or did you check the audio that the D2v was receiving by pushing the 'select' button to bring up the STAUS DISPLAY ??


*Most importantly, is the drop-out reproducible?* Did you reverse or skip back to see if it happened again?
If it is reproducible, would you tell us the disc or chapter time when this happens. Was it the theatrical release or the extended version??


If its not reproducible, don't worry. Although there has been an Oppo audio drop-out problem that happens at @ 3 hour mark on long movies. That would have been closer to the end of the extended version. I believe Oppo is working on a fix for that problem.


I have watched FOTR on DVD, BR (reg and extended) and don't remember any problems. If you can reproduce the problem, let me know and I'll try my BR to see if I can reproduce the problem.


Tom


----------



## RobDec

Hi Tom
The audio went completely out, and I had to stop and restart the disc to get audio back. I looked at disc and it was smudged. I replayed the disc and kept it smudged to see if that was the problem. And no audio dropouts. I also played 5 DTS-Ma discs including another 6.1 DTS-MA and no problems.
I did not bring up Oppo on screen info or push select or pay attention to the blue lights (I will if it happens again).
I don't think it was the "3 hour audio bug" because it was the extended version and split between 2 discs, both don't exceed much past 2 hours. I played disc 1 with no problem, then put in a completely different movie for about 5 minutes ( I wanted to check up on a scene from this different movie) then played disc 2 and it happened sometime during the middle of disc 2.

Thanks Rob


----------



## gerard1meehan

I had an interesting experience with my D2v3d over the weekend.

I have been listing to a significant amount of vinyl lately, and have been doing so on analog direct. I am loving the sound in my set up, so I tried a little experiment. On my Music speaker configuration I turned off all of the crossovers with the intent of falling back on the internal speaker crossovers. I then went into what I have set as my CD/SACD input and set it the music configuration, and turned off ARC. My theory was to just use the D2v as a DAC with volume control, no processing.

I played the new MOFI Miles Davis SACD “Kind of Blue” on my oppo via HDMI and I could not be happier with the sound. 

good fun!


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Texas steve said:


> Anthem has not addressed or updated anything for regular D2V owners in quite sometime! The last release of 3.09J and up caused problems with non 3D D2vs


... because they're beta versions that were *never* meant for 2D units. Production software:

www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software.php

Regarding "lossless" vs "lowloss", there is no bug - the video processing menu is simply reporting what it gets from the HDMI info frame in the bitstream. Speaker configuration may have a bearing on this.


----------



## thestewman

gerard1meehan said:


> I had an interesting experience with my D2v3d over the weekend.
> 
> I have been listing to a significant amount of vinyl lately, and have been doing so on analog direct. I am loving the sound in my set up, so I tried a little experiment. On my Music speaker configuration I turned off all of the crossovers with the intent of falling back on the internal speaker crossovers. I then went into what I have set as my CD/SACD input and set it the music configuration, and turned off ARC. My theory was to just use the D2v as a DAC with volume control, no processing.
> 
> I played the new MOFI Miles Davis SACD “Kind of Blue” on my oppo via HDMI and I could not be happier with the sound.
> 
> good fun!


Which OPPO do you have ?


----------



## thestewman

Nick @ Anthem said:


> ...
> 
> Regarding "lossless" vs "lowloss", there is no bug - the video processing menu is simply reporting what it gets from the HDMI info frame in the bitstream. Speaker configuration may have a bearing on this.


So are you saying the OPPO reports something different than my PCH player in the HDMI stream ?
Nick, could you explain how the speaker configuration would effect the reporting of lossless or lowloss ?


----------



## gerard1meehan

thestewman said:


> Which OPPO do you have ?


I have the 103, with an Oppomod.com linier power module, I actually have their TCXO and OCXO clock upgrade on the way.

But the D2v is doing all the DAC work. I also have a BDP 83 Nuforce in my living room I will give a try this weekend. Curious how it’s DAC’s sound


----------



## thestewman

gerard1meehan said:


> I have the 103, with an Oppomod.com linier power module, I actually have their TCXO and OCXO clock upgrade on the way.
> 
> But the D2v is doing all the DAC work. I also have a BDP 83 Nuforce in my living room I will give a try this weekend. Curious how it’s DAC’s sound


What you might try to do is dispense with using HDMI. Try using the analog outputs. One thing for sure it eliminates the jitter that HDMI adds to the signal.

The best I have heard using the D2v is Windows laptop with JRiver that has been optimized, feeding Exasound E28 to D2v using Analog Direct.
You could believe Miles Davis is in your room


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

thestewman said:


> So are you saying the OPPO reports something different than my PCH player in the HDMI stream ?
> Nick, could you explain how the speaker configuration would effect the reporting of lossless or lowloss ?


That's what it says, and a prepro can't create a soundtrack.

The prepro necessarily tells the source whether you're using 5.1 or 7.1 speakers, for example. The manner in which this info is used is up to the source. The D2v decodes the incoming bitstream according to what's shown on the front panel and 2-line status display. This is more specific than what the video menu shows and depending on incoming format, the bit rate is also shown when the status button is cycled enough times, otherwise, the sampling rate is shown.


----------



## tngiloy

thestewman said:


> What you might try to do is dispense with using HDMI. Try using the analog outputs. One thing for sure it eliminates the jitter that HDMI adds to the signal.
> 
> The best I have heard using the D2v is *Windows laptop with JRiver that has been optimized*, feeding Exasound E28 to D2v using Analog Direct.
> You could believe Miles Davis is in your room



Stew,
I am running Windows7 laptop with JRiver MC20 to an Ayre QB-9 and it sounds great. But by *'optimized'*, what exactly do you mean? What did you do?
I'm always looking for a tweak, especially if its cheap.


Tom


----------



## thestewman

tngiloy said:


> Stew,
> I am running Windows7 laptop with JRiver MC20 to an Ayre QB-9 and it sounds great. But by *'optimized'*, what exactly do you mean? What did you do?
> I'm always looking for a tweak, especially if its cheap.
> 
> 
> Tom


Tomm
Trying not to get to far OT so this will be short. Here are two methods.

Building an Absolute Fidelity Music Server

Audiophile Optimizer

Tom there is a lot of good information available 
Here Computer Audiophile 

And Here What's Best Forum  

And also here  Audio Circle

Stew


----------



## char

Does the avm-50 and d2 still have top notch video processing? Or is it getting old.

Thanks,

Chad


----------



## stanger89

char said:


> Does the avm-50 and d2 still have top notch video processing? Or is it getting old.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Chad


It's still good, but it's no Lumagen (in terms of both scaling and features).


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

thestewman said:


> What you might try to do is dispense with using HDMI. Try using the analog outputs. One thing for sure it eliminates the jitter that HDMI adds to the signal.


 It's a non-issue with the D2, D2v, and AVM 50v. There's reclocking on the HDMI inputs of the "v" models and in the asynchronous sample rate converter just ahead of the Statement DAC (D2v has reclocking at both ends).

TMDS and CDR details, a third of the way down:

www.anthemav.com/products-current/type=av-processor/model=d2v-3d/page=overview

upsampler details:

www.anthemav.com/downloads/Upsampling.pdf


----------



## Ricky

I am considering getting a used Anthem D2 (with ARC) for mysmall 5.1 mancave (my other system, in the living room system is 7.2 andpowered by a Marantz AV7008 with high WAF), to pair with 3 Focal Solo 6BEpowered monitors, Energy RC10 rears, and 12inch NHT classic sub. Sources are HTPC, Apple TV, Samsung Bluray (or original PS3, the fat one),and Oppo 981 dvda/sacd player. Right nowI’m using an Emotiva UMC1 prepro with UPA500 driving rears. 

I’ve never owned Anthem great and have some questions:

If I’m 70% movies / 30% music, how sonically superior would be D2 be to other newer, used prepros under $1k, like MarantzAV7005/7701/8801? 
Since the D2 is at least 5 years old, should Ibe worried about any common failures?
Would the D2's HDMI 1.1 be ok with my sources?
If it doesn’t already have ARC installed, howwould I buy the ARC kit to install it?
Is the D2 fully balanced? I originally used an Aragon Soundstage prepro fullybalanced prepro (was great sounding, but pre HDMI) with the Focals from 2005 to2011 before replacing it with HDMI capable gear


----------



## thestewman

Ricky said:


> I am considering getting a used Anthem D2 (with ARC) for mysmall 5.1 mancave (my other system, in the living room system is 7.2 andpowered by a Marantz AV7008 with high WAF), to pair with 3 Focal Solo 6BEpowered monitors, Energy RC10 rears, and 12inch NHT classic sub. Sources are HTPC, Apple TV, Samsung Bluray (or original PS3, the fat one),and Oppo 981 dvda/sacd player. Right nowI’m using an Emotiva UMC1 prepro with UPA500 driving rears.
> 
> I’ve never owned Anthem great and have some questions:
> 
> If I’m 70% movies / 30% music, how sonically superior would be D2 be to other newer, used prepros under $1k, like MarantzAV7005/7701/8801?
> Since the D2 is at least 5 years old, should Ibe worried about any common failures?
> Would the D2's HDMI 1.1 be ok with my sources?
> If it doesn’t already have ARC installed, howwould I buy the ARC kit to install it?
> Is the D2 fully balanced? I originally used an Aragon Soundstage prepro fullybalanced prepro (was great sounding, but pre HDMI) with the Focals from 2005 to2011 before replacing it with HDMI capable gear


Hope you do not mind but I changed your font color so your questions are visible with the AVS Black background
The Anthem should and can sound better than any of the Marantz units including your AV7008.
The D2 and D2v sound is only bettered by some audiophile external DACs that are now available.

No Anthem units have a common failure. If I recall there were some real early units with video boards that were troublesome.
Maybe someone can jump in and identify which. I think I recall they had green boards. Search this forum and you will find the info.

No problem with the HDMI 1.1 unless your display has a higher requirement. Personally I would try for a D2v with the ability to Bitstream LOSSLESS HDMI audio which the D2 cannot.

Arc Kits are available.

All the D2 and D2v have balanced inputs and outputs. Whether they are fully balanced internally is not readily known.


----------



## DenonAVFreak

Thanks Bob!


----------



## Ricky

thestewman said:


> Hope you do not mind but I changed your font color so your questions are visible with the AVS Black background
> The Anthem should and can sound better than any of the Marantz units including your AV7008.
> The D2 and D2v sound is only bettered by some audiophile external DACs that are now available.
> 
> No Anthem units have a common failure. If I recall there were some real early units with video boards that were troublesome.
> Maybe someone can jump in and identify which. I think I recall they had green boards. Search this forum and you will find the info.
> 
> No problem with the HDMI 1.1 unless your display has a higher requirement. Personally I would try for a D2v with the ability to Bitstream LOSSLESS HDMI audio which the D2 cannot.
> 
> Arc Kits are available.
> 
> All the D2 and D2v have balanced inputs and outputs. Whether they are fully balanced internally is not readily known.


Thanks for your help. I'd love a D2v but can't afford it now. My choices seem to be D2, D1, 50v, and 50 with hdmi 1.1. Can all of these models can be upgraded with ARC by buying one of those kits on eBay for under $200? 

Should I consider an Mrx300/500/700 instead of an anthem prepro? Or are these one step below sonically? 

Sorry for the anthem newbie questions.


----------



## stanger89

I'd go with a 50V, it's got all the functionality of the D2V but lacks the upsampling and I think hand picked components or something, but it's still a phenomenal prepro.

Or, if you're not in a hurry, I'd consider holding out and seeing how the AVM60 turns out.


----------



## fuzzybk

Ricky said:


> Thanks for your help. I'd love a D2v but can't afford it now. My choices seem to be D2, D1, 50v, and 50 with hdmi 1.1. Can all of these models can be upgraded with ARC by buying one of those kits on eBay for under $200?
> 
> Should I consider an Mrx300/500/700 instead of an anthem prepro? Or are these one step below sonically?
> 
> Sorry for the anthem newbie questions.


Go for an AVM50v. Love mine.


----------



## TJG55

Ricky,
I am and have been a Paradigm/Anthem dealer for decades. I have a personal D-2 with the latest ARC and all accessories.There have been no problems. About the same ratio of movies/music. No problem with BDs as I am using a Denon 2012 with internal decoding of high level soundtracks. The D is definitely a step up from the AVM. Sold tons of both. I am considering selling one or both if you are interested. 
Hope the info helps.
TJG
 (Even sold Bob his Anthem way back)


----------



## AVfile

stanger89 said:


> I'd go with a 50V, it's got all the functionality of the D2V but lacks the upsampling and I think hand picked components or something, but it's still a phenomenal prepro.



What he said, plus they all came with ARC and the anti-jitter HDMI implementation of the D2v that Nick was just posting about. The 50v is closer in specs and performance to the D2v than the 50 was to the D2. Anthem really narrowed the gap with the v series. 

I came from a Lexicon and the biggest improvement was on music but movies were also improved, even before I ran ARC!


----------



## DenonAVFreak

*Audio Source reading “Lossy” on Video Processing Menu*



Nick @ Anthem said:


> That's what it says, and a prepro can't create a soundtrack.
> 
> The prepro necessarily tells the source whether you're using 5.1 or 7.1 speakers, for example. The manner in which this info is used is up to the source. The D2v decodes the incoming bitstream according to what's shown on the front panel and 2-line status display. This is more specific than what the video menu shows and depending on incoming format, the bit rate is also shown when the status button is cycled enough times, otherwise, the sampling rate is shown.


Hi Nick, 

I’m puzzled by your comment that there is no bug in theAnthem D2v video processing menu screen – 

You said “Regarding "lossless" vs"lowloss", there is no bug - the video processing menu is simply reporting what it gets from the HDMI info frame in the bitstream.” [from theOppo] AND “…The D2v decodes the incoming bitstream [from the Oppo] according to what's shown on the front panel and 2-line status display. This is more specific than what the video menu shows and depending on incoming format [from the Oppo], the bit rate is also shown when the status button is cycled enough times, otherwise, the sampling rate is shown.” 

The [from the Oppo] bits I put in to help define things for me a bit better. If this is the case, and I am seeing “LOSSY” on the video processing menu screen of the D2v then is this telling me that somehow my Oppo is sending a lossy rather than lossless signal to the D2v?

I tried connecting another blu-ray player and sending DTS-MA and Dolby TrueHD audio streams and the D2v video processing menu screen read ‘LOSSY’as well. I then tried another HDMI cable with both players and the D2v video processing menu screen still reads LOSSY. 

Is there any way I can check or test that the D2v is actually seeing a lossless audio stream from my Oppo or from the other Blu-ray player I tried?

Thanks for your help.


----------



## stanger89

DenonAVFreak said:


> The [from the Oppo] bits I put in to help define things for me a bit better. If this is the case, and I am seeing “LOSSY” on the video processing menu screen of the D2v then is this telling me that somehow my Oppo is sending a lossy rather than lossless signal to the D2v?


It's possible, but what does your front panel say? If it says DTS-HD MA, then that means you're truly getting lossless audio, but the Oppo is populating the HDMI info frame incorrectly.




> Is there any way I can check or test that the D2v is actually seeing a lossless audio stream from my Oppo or from the other Blu-ray player I tried?


As Nick said, look at the front panel display, or the OSD status display, both show *exactly *what the D2V is getting/processing, where as the Video Processing screen just displays the metadata from the HDMI stream.


----------



## DenonAVFreak

*Audio Source reading “Lossy” cont'd*



stanger89 said:


> It's possible, but what does your front panel say? If it says DTS-HD MA, then that means you're truly getting lossless audio, but the Oppo is populating the HDMI info frame incorrectly.
> 
> 
> 
> As Nick said, look at the front panel display, or the OSD status display, both show *exactly *what the D2V is getting/processing, where as the Video Processing screen just displays the metadata from the HDMI stream.


 Thank you stanger89 for your reply. I guess my Oppo has a bug rather than the Anthem. I'm good so long as I 'm actually getting lossless audio. I wonder if the Oppo folks know that their players are incorrectly populating the HDMI info frame?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Nick and I are looking into this now. I'm still betting the bug is in the D2v, particularly since you tried a different player and got the same result. Do you have a regular D2v or a D2v/3D? If the D2v/3D, were you testing with the player(s) connected to the HDMI 1-4 inputs or 5-8?
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Nick and I are looking into this now. I'm still betting the bug is in the D2v, particularly since you tried a different player and got the same result. Do you have a regular D2v or a D2v/3D? If the D2v/3D, were you testing with the player(s) connected to the HDMI 1-4 inputs or 5-8?
> --Bob


Bob

My testing that resulted in a Lowloss audio indication in the Video Processing Screen was done with a D2v 3D, 
Firmware v3.09 using HDMI input #3


----------



## tngiloy

FWIW-
D2v _NON 3D_ running v3.09h. My testing showed:
DTS-MA 5.1 -- D2v video pop-up screen shows Audio Source: Lossless
DTS-MA 7.1 --D2v shows Lossless
DD-HD 7.1 --D2v shows Lossless


Oppo 103D is set to 'SPLIT A/V'. (This may or may not be important, but may be worth looking into) with HDMI #1 going to Panny plasma display and HDMI #2 going to D2v.
HDMI #1 out set to RGB.
HDMI #2 out set to YCbCr 4:2:2 (although D2v shows it is receiving RGB).
3-D set to off. Deep color off for both.
Set to bitstream for HDMI.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

My guess at this point is that the bug is in the /3D configuration. 
--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

thestewman said:


> D2v 3D, Firmware v3.09


 v3.09 (not followed by a letter) is exclusively for 2D hardware and v3.10 is exclusively for 3D hardware. Please ensure that correct software is installed. This would not only help sort out the contradictory display conditions, it should be done anyway.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

Confirmed, the audio display in the 3D-model video menu is bogus in regard to lossless encoded audio. For now, please just ignore this info. Sorry for the confusion. The fix, if any (no idea - the code has been locked down for a while) would likely be to just delete that line item since the more comprehensive audio info appears on the regular display correctly.


----------



## thestewman

Nick @ Anthem said:


> v3.09 (not followed by a letter) is exclusively for 2D hardware and v3.10 is exclusively for 3D hardware. Please ensure that correct software is installed. This would not only help sort out the contradictory display conditions, it should be done anyway.


As Nick recommended I updated my D2v 3D firmware to v3.10. 
I always have hesitated to update the D2v firmware as others have experienced either problems conducting the update or new problems especially with HDMI switching suddenly were experienced.
I wonder what benefits I might get from the update as the firmware notes are not specific.
The update went without any problems and so far I see no positive or negative results or advantages


----------



## benleeys

While on the subject of the D2v 3D (firmware 3.10), has anyone experienced the inability of the unit to display the Setup Menu and Video Processing on projector screens AFTER about 1 1/2 hours into use? I first noticed the problem in the D2v when new, and now with the 3D board installed, it is still there. 

No problem with the screen display within that time period, but after that, it will simply refuse to do so. For the Setup Menu, I will then have to depend on the front panel display, but with the Video Processing, the penal will just show a reference to OSD. 

When I was using the Sony D50 CRT, I thought it was a display problem, but now, I am having the same issue with my JVC DLA-X900R.

Ben


----------



## barhoram

Experienced and odd issue last night with my D2V for the second time. 


We were watching DirectTV (via component input) yesterday, and switched over to BluRay (HDMI) for a while. When we switched back to DirecTV, we got sound, but no picture. Screen was just blank/black. The first time this happened, I thought it was an issue with DirectTV and after disconnected and reconnecting everything, finally got the picture back.

After switching between several of the other inputs and back...still could not get a picture to display. We turned the D2V off and then back on and the picture from DirectTV (over component) returned. After a while, had the same issue again switching from sourced. Cycling power seemed to be the only fix. 

Any ideas?


----------



## tngiloy

benleeys said:


> While on the subject of the D2v 3D (firmware 3.10), has anyone experienced the inability of the unit to display the Setup Menu and Video Processing on projector screens AFTER about 1 1/2 hours into use? I first noticed the problem in the D2v when new, and now with the 3D board installed, it is still there.
> 
> No problem with the screen display within that time period, but after that, it will simply refuse to do so. For the Setup Menu, I will then have to depend on the front panel display, but with the Video Processing, the penal will just show a reference to OSD.
> 
> When I was using the Sony D50 CRT, I thought it was a display problem, but now, I am having the same issue with my JVC DLA-X900R.
> 
> Ben


 
Ben,
I have had the same issue with my D2 and now my D2v. 
Perhaps we have the only three units with this problem that Anthem has manufactured. But I doubt it.
If I had to guess I would say it has something to do with temperature and/or the fact that the setup menu is S-Video. 
I have tried different settings to no avail. Perhaps I missed something. 
I have learned to work around this by using the front panel display, but it is not as easy to read and navigate as the on-screen setup menu. And it is totally useless when trying to adjust 'ANALOG INPUT LEVELS'.


If there is a setting Ben and I are missing, please let us know. If this is a problem that others are experiencing please let us know. This should not be happening with a $10K processor, so I must assume its a settings problem. Or I would hope so anyway.


Tom


----------



## thestewman

tngiloy said:


> Ben,
> I have had the same issue with my D2 and now my D2v.
> Perhaps we have the only three units with this problem that Anthem has manufactured. But I doubt it.
> If I had to guess I would say it has something to do with temperature and/or the fact that the setup menu is S-Video.
> I have tried different settings to no avail. Perhaps I missed something.
> I have learned to work around this by using the front panel display, but it is not as easy to read and navigate as the on-screen setup menu. And it is totally useless when trying to adjust 'ANALOG INPUT LEVELS'.
> 
> 
> If there is a setting Ben and I are missing, please let us know. If this is a problem that others are experiencing please let us know. This should not be happening with a $10K processor, so I must assume its a settings problem. Or I would hope so anyway.
> 
> 
> Tom


Tom

What has Anthem support suggested or offered ?

Stew


----------



## benleeys

Tom,

So I am not alone with this issue after all! 

Years ago I posted this topic here when I was using the D2. Nobody responded, so I thought it was just me. Then came the D2v, and the issue was there again. I was still using the Sony D50 crt display and I thought maybe it was the culprit, so I just learnt to live with it. Setup and video changes are done when the unit is newly turned on. No problem.

When the D20 was replaced with the DLA-X900R and the issue remained, I thought I'd try my luck on this topic again. And bingo! You turned up. 

Tom, I don't think it has to do with any setting we missed. It's not an overheating problem either, because my D2v3D is on the top shelf out in the open in an air-conditioned theatre. Neither do I think it's my 25ft Monster HDMI cable which has never, ever given me any video problem.

I guess if a few more users indicate having this issue, Anthem might just find it worthwhile to take note. 

Ben


----------



## tngiloy

Years ago I also posted a similar question. I seem to remember Bob stating it had something to do with the fact that the set-up menu used internal S-Video and may have been due to heat. Forgive me, Bob if I am remembering wrong. I tried to find the post but grew tired of looking. Please refresh my memory or add your input.


Stew,
I just learned to work around it-- doing my set-up soon after turning it on, or using the front panel display. Never contacted Anthem tech. It was a problem, but a minor problem and assumed it was only me having the problem. I didn't want to ship my unit back to Canada and be D2-less for a month or more for a nuisance.
Maybe some you and others here would check and see if they can get the on-screen set-up menu to come up after using your D2 or D2v for an hour or so. Maybe check after watching a movie. 
Let us know if you get a menu or a blank screen.


Tom


I found my original post on page 905. I don't think I made it clear to Bob that there wasn't just a delay when going from line to line in the menu, but that that menu would eventually completely disappear.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The workaround is to power cycle the Anthem. That should get your menu back.

There are several, unrelated issues here, all of which should be cured by that. For example, if you leave the Video Source Adjust menu on screen without doing anything -- long enough that it times out -- then you will need to power cycle to get it back.

The Setup menu is an internally generated analog (S-video) source. Evidently the hardware can get in a state where the portion that digitizes analog video for HDMI output doesn't lock on to that analog video.

(In the older D2, it was also possible for the firmware to get zapped so you could not bring up Setup at all -- even after a power cycle. The cure for THAT was to re-install the firmware.)

One last note: If you lose your on-screen info displays (volume and the Select button stuff) after using Video Source Adjust, just hit the Back button one more time. If you look at the Front Panel display you will see it is still showing OSD (on-screen display) even after you dismiss Video Source Adjust. The extra Back cures that.
--Bob


----------



## benleeys

tngiloy said:


> This should not be happening with a $10K processor.......
> Tom


I wholeheartedly agree, Tom. It's irritating to have to resort to workarounds.

Ben


----------



## MitchPope

Bob Pariseau said:


> (In the older D2, it was also possible for the firmware to get zapped so you could not bring up Setup at all -- even after a power cycle. The cure for THAT was to re-install the firmware.)


Thank you - I have my OSD back again!


----------



## tngiloy

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ The workaround is to power cycle the Anthem. That should get your menu back.
> 
> There are several, unrelated issues here, all of which should be cured by that. For example, if you leave the Video Source Adjust menu on screen without doing anything -- long enough that it times out -- then you will need to power cycle to get it back.
> 
> The Setup menu is an internally generated analog (S-video) source. Evidently the hardware can get in a state where the portion that digitizes analog video for HDMI output doesn't lock on to that analog video.
> 
> (In the older D2, it was also possible for the firmware to get zapped so you could not bring up Setup at all -- even after a power cycle. The cure for THAT was to re-install the firmware.)
> 
> One last note: If you lose your on-screen info displays (volume and the Select button stuff) after using Video Source Adjust, just hit the Back button one more time. If you look at the Front Panel display you will see it is still showing OSD (on-screen display) even after you dismiss Video Source Adjust. The extra Back cures that.
> --Bob



Bob,
Power cycling does _not_ work. At least not as fast as your suggestions imply.
The only thing that works for me is to turn off the D2v long enough for it to cool down. I have tried after a just few minutes and it still won't work. If I wait an hour or so it will work.
This does not affect the on-screen info displays for volume or source display, only the set-up menu.
I have never _not_ been able to pull up the Video Source Adjust menu (pushing and holding #7 ) at any time with either D2 or D2v. This only happens with the main set-up menu (pushing and holding SUB/LFE).
My D2v has plenty of ventilation also.


Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If power cycling doesn't work to bring back Setup menu on the D2v (immediately), then the D2v likely needs hardware service.
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Tom
Is it possible your remote is not working. Especially the old style D2 remotes. They have a high failure rate. I go through 2 a year.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ At the very least, you'll want to check with fresh batteries.
--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ If power cycling doesn't work to bring back Setup menu on the D2v (immediately), then the D2v likely needs hardware service.
> --Bob





thestewman said:


> Tom
> Is it possible your remote is not working. Especially the old style D2 remotes. They have a high failure rate. I go through 2 a year.


 
I use a universal remote. It works fine. New batteries. It seems unlikely that I would get 2 units with the same problem due to a hardware failure and only one other person on this site has the same problem.
I will not send my unit back to Anthem for a problem I can work around by using the set-up menu only on start-up or use the front panel display which works for most settings I need to use. It is a 5-6 week turn around for Anthem tech and I am pretty sure they would tell me that there is no problem that they could find.


Bob and Stew (and anyone else),
have you tried accessing your set-up menu after an hour or two's use?? Are you able to get it to come up on your display??

Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes. Or if not (the failure case seems random), a power cycle cures it immediately.
--Bob


----------



## tngiloy

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Yes. Or if not (the failure case seems random), a power cycle cures it immediately.
> --Bob


In your set-up, section 3.12, what are your settings for 'main' ??


----------



## thestewman

tngiloy said:


> I use a universal remote. It works fine. New batteries. It seems unlikely that I would get 2 units with the same problem due to a hardware failure and only one other person on this site has the same problem.
> I will not send my unit back to Anthem for a problem I can work around by using the set-up menu only on start-up or use the front panel display which works for most settings I need to use. It is a 5-6 week turn around for Anthem tech and I am pretty sure they would tell me that there is no problem that they could find.
> 
> 
> Bob and Stew (and anyone else),
> have you tried accessing your set-up menu after an hour or two's use?? Are you able to get it to come up on your display??
> 
> Tom


Tom
I have had a D2. Then a D2v and then that was converted to a D2v 3D. I never have had a problem. I can get the OSD display even after the unit has been on for hours or all day. 
The unit is mounted into a 19" equipment rack and the temp on a warm summer day is 90 degrees F.
There is cooling air ventilation being drawn in at the bottom and below the D2 that exits out the ceiling of the equipment rack room when the temp exceeds 88 F..
There is something weird about the coincidence of you owning two different units that might just be the key to the problem,


----------



## benleeys

thestewman said:


> .......There is something weird about the coincidence of you owning two different units that might just be the key to the problem,


Tom, I wonder what we both have in common. Like you, both my D2 and D2v/D2v3D exhibit the same symptoms. Both of them were purchased new, and from day 1, the problem was there.

Ben


----------



## tngiloy

benleeys said:


> Tom, I wonder what we both have in common. Like you, both my D2 and D2v/D2v3D exhibit the same symptoms. Both of them were purchased new, and from day 1, the problem was there.
> 
> Ben



Being from the Denver area, we usually blame weird stuff on the mile high altitude.
Maybe I'll put the D2v on a lower shelf and see if that helps.

Since it really is not a big problem and the unit works perfectly otherwise I'm not going to worry too much about it. Would like to know what others have their video config and display settings (13.1-main) at just to make sure its not something there, although if the settings were wrong I should not get the on screen set-up display at all.


Tom


----------



## tngiloy

^
I did some more testing this evening thinking that it might be a over-heating problem, since the set-up menu would work when cool on start up but would stop working after it had run for a while. After reading how Stew had his ventilation/cooling system for his rack I decided to try an experiment.
I took a small room/desk fan and set it up to help cool the D2v. As usual the menu worked shortly after start up. I set a timer for 30 min and tried to bring up the menu again. It did not come up, but it did come up right after a power cycle. I set the timer for another hour and retried. Again it did not come up then, but did come up immediately after another power cycle. It seems as if the S-video system for the set-up menu is susceptible to overheating, even if the rest of the audio/video functions work fine.


Ben, 
this leads me to believe that my unit was not as well ventilated as I thought. I will be rearranging my components to allow better ventilation for the D2v. I would suggest you try this experiment and if you have similar results you may want to adjust your spacing also.


Thanks to Stew for the insight.


Tom


----------



## thestewman

tngiloy said:


> ^
> I did some more testing this evening thinking that it might be a over-heating problem, since the set-up menu would work when cool on start up but would stop working after it had run for a while. After reading how Stew had his ventilation/cooling system for his rack I decided to try an experiment.
> I took a small room/desk fan and set it up to help cool the D2v. As usual the menu worked shortly after start up. I set a timer for 30 min and tried to bring up the menu again. It did not come up, but it did come up right after a power cycle. I set the timer for another hour and retried. Again it did not come up then, but did come up immediately after another power cycle. It seems as if the S-video system for the set-up menu is susceptible to overheating, even if the rest of the audio/video functions work fine.
> 
> 
> Ben,
> this leads me to believe that my unit was not as well ventilated as I thought. I will be rearranging my components to allow better ventilation for the D2v. I would suggest you try this experiment and if you have similar results you may want to adjust your spacing also.
> 
> Thanks to Stew for the insight.
> 
> 
> Tom


You might want to try sitting the D2v on top of a laptop cooler or place a small silent computer fan behind the unit


----------



## benleeys

tngiloy said:


> ^
> Ben,
> this leads me to believe that my unit was not as well ventilated as I thought. I will be rearranging my components to allow better ventilation for the D2v. I would suggest you try this experiment and if you have similar results you may want to adjust your spacing also.
> Tom


Tom, my D2v3D sits on the top shelf of a 3ft high open rack. There's nothing on that level near it and it is in the direct path of the aircon draft. Sitting on the shelf below it is an Oppo 93, and below that an Oppo 83. The shelves are of 2 inch thick solid walnut. The unit feels lukewarm even after 2 hours of use, so I cannot see how I can improve further on the ventilation in my setup. Which leads me to think that ventilation is not the cause .... unless it needs to be seated on top of an ice pack. 

Nevertheless, I shall be very interested in the result of your experiments.

Ben


----------



## Whitl

Looking for a little help, have been slowly switching everything over to MAC and the last thing i have left is ARC, I no it does not run on iOS but i was wondering if anybody has any success running it using a third party piece of software that would let me run ARC on a MAC book pro.


----------



## Emosewa09

Recommend you carefully read the ARC manual. I believe it states that ARC does NOT work with Windows emulation software. I also have a Mac, but I installed bootcamp on it, which means that windows is running on a separate partition just as if it is an actual windows machine.

If my memory is correct, you need to borrow a windows laptop from someone, or reinstall the Mac OS on your your main Mac, and while you do that, create a separate partition for for bootcamp and windows. If you do that, go to the Mac website and read the help files on Bootcamp. I think it only works with Windows 7.


----------



## jo5507

Emosewa09 said:


> Recommend you carefully read the ARC manual. I believe it states that ARC does NOT work with Windows emulation software. I also have a Mac, but I installed bootcamp on it, which means that windows is running on a separate partition just as if it is an actual windows machine.
> 
> If my memory is correct, you need to borrow a windows laptop from someone, or reinstall the Mac OS on your your main Mac, and while you do that, create a separate partition for for bootcamp and windows. If you do that, go to the Mac website and read the help files on Bootcamp. I think it only works with Windows 7.


I use an older Macbook with bootcamp, running XP.


----------



## Emosewa09

That should work unless there is an issue between ARC and XP. XP is very old Windows OS and no longer supported by anyone. The main point is to use bootcamp and not an emulation program.


----------



## AVfile

benleeys said:


> Tom, I wonder what we both have in common. Like you, both my D2 and D2v/D2v3D exhibit the same symptoms. Both of them were purchased new, and from day 1, the problem was there.
> 
> Ben



You mentioned you are using the video processor (i.e. not set to Pass Through like me) in the Anthem. What is your Video Output Config? 

I wonder if there is something unique about the HDMI format you guys are using. Have you tried different configs (resolution, interlaced, frame rate, RGB/YCbCr, or bit depth) to see if one works better with the Setup menu? 

The SETUP menu is supposed to adopt the video output Config of the current source but I have seen it act up (only when using Passthrough though, in which case it is undefined!)


----------



## AVfile

Emosewa09 said:


> That should work unless there is an issue between ARC and XP. XP is very old Windows OS and no longer supported by anyone. The main point is to use bootcamp and not an emulation program.



Nothing wrong with XP and lack of so-called support just means less annoying Windows updates 

Section 3.15 (p.47) of the Anthem user manual states XP or later (remember ARC is also "old") and a PC with a 9-pin serial port (also old) is ideal.


----------



## jo5507

Emosewa09 said:


> That should work unless there is an issue between ARC and XP. XP is very old Windows OS and no longer supported by anyone. The main point is to use bootcamp and not an emulation program.


As I noted, I use it. It works fine with XP. I need to use a portable occasionally for a few programs including ARC, and I use my old Macbook/XP for that purpose. If one happens to have access to XP or prefers it over the newer OS's, it works perfectly well and I have no problems with updates to those programs so far. XP of course, no longer gets updates.


----------



## benleeys

AVfile said:


> You mentioned you are using the video processor (i.e. not set to Pass Through like me) in the Anthem. What is your Video Output Config?
> 
> I wonder if there is something unique about the HDMI format you guys are using. Have you tried different configs (resolution, interlaced, frame rate, RGB/YCbCr, or bit depth) to see if one works better with the Setup menu?
> 
> The SETUP menu is supposed to adopt the video output Config of the current source but I have seen it act up (only when using Passthrough though, in which case it is undefined!)


My Video Configs are set with 1080p/60 (DVD), 1080p/24 (BR), YCbCr 444, 12 bit. Since the problem doesn't occur within and hour or so of switching on, I don't believe the problem is caused by any of these settings.


----------



## thestewman

benleeys said:


> My Video Configs are set with 1080p/60 (DVD), 1080p/24 (BR), YCbCr 444, 12 bit. Since the problem doesn't occur within and hour or so of switching on, I don't believe the problem is caused by any of these settings.


Ben
My own interpretation of what is occurring. Consider that the same situation happened with two different units.
One which I believe was the later design D2v.
This has to be a positional problem.
In other words where you have the unit located must be causing a localized heating of the board or components.
Can you move or reposition the unit at least enough so that you create a different flow of air ? Or another idea if it is shelf mounted raise it up on some small blocks off the shelf ?

Stew


----------



## AVfile

benleeys said:


> My Video Configs are set with 1080p/60 (DVD), 1080p/24 (BR), YCbCr 444, 12 bit. Since the problem doesn't occur within and hour or so of switching on, I don't believe the problem is caused by any of these settings.



You're right it shouldn't matter but we could be dealing with a very strange bug that only manifests due to several compounding factors. I think most people use 8-bit data. There is no reason to complicate things by using 12-bit. Also try 4:2:2.


----------



## benleeys

thestewman said:


> Ben
> My own interpretation of what is occurring. Consider that the same situation happened with two different units.
> One which I believe was the later design D2v.
> This has to be a positional problem.
> In other words where you have the unit located must be causing a localized heating of the board or components.
> Can you move or reposition the unit at least enough so that you create a different flow of air ? Or another idea if it is shelf mounted raise it up on some small blocks off the shelf ?
> 
> Stew


Stew,

I did think of this possibility before so I shifted it to the current position. But it made no difference. Let's wait for the result of Tom's experiment.

Ben


----------



## benleeys

AVfile said:


> You're right it shouldn't matter but we could be dealing with a very strange bug that only manifests due to several compounding factors. I think most people use 8-bit data. There is no reason to complicate things by using 12-bit. Also try 4:2:2.


Tried them all, but it made no difference. After so many years, I've given up fiddling and have learnt to live with this anomaly and enjoy what I have. 

Ben


----------



## thestewman

benleeys said:


> Stew,
> 
> I did think of this possibility before so I shifted it to the current position. But it made no difference. Let's wait for the result of Tom's experiment.
> 
> Ben


I sure would like to see if you raised it up preferably an inch or more and see if it cured the problem.

Stew


----------



## Thxtheater

Is it just me or is this the quietest I've seen this forum


----------



## thestewman

Thxtheater said:


> Is it just me or is this the quietest I've seen this forum


I was thinking the same thing.
I was going to see if everyone was waiting for the new Anthem D3 they have been showing at private trade functions.


----------



## MrKegFlex

Have an AVM50v (non-3D) running 3.09h that is being underused in a 3.1 setup. When watching 7.1 audio tracks, I get occasional blips of silence. Most recent example was the movie Insurgent dolby atmos 7.1. I've experienced this with other 7.1 audio movies and find I have to switch to my UV/iTunes digital copy of the movie to watch as the other audio options are 5.1 for different languages or have commentary. No trouble with any 5.1 audio options.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ It could be that the player doesn't fully support seamless branching (contact tech support otherwise). Details:

www.audioholics.com/news/dolby-atmos-old-blu-ray-players


----------



## MrKegFlex

Nick @ Anthem said:


> ^ It could be that the player doesn't fully support seamless branching (contact tech support otherwise). Details:
> 
> www.audioholics.com/news/dolby-atmos-old-blu-ray-players


I'm behind the times, have not been keeping up with technology. Using an oppo bdp-83, will have to see if it's atmos only next time. Thanks for the link!


----------



## AVfile

MrKegFlex said:


> I'm behind the times, have not been keeping up with technology. Using an oppo bdp-83, will have to see if it's atmos only next time. Thanks for the link!



Make sure you have the latest BDP-83 firmware. There was a fix for audio problems on some recent Fox titles. Some other 7.1 titles will have dropouts unless you switch to PCM, and not just Atmos ones.


----------



## MrKegFlex

AVfile said:


> Make sure you have the latest BDP-83 firmware. There was a fix for audio problems on some recent Fox titles. Some other 7.1 titles will have dropouts unless you switch to PCM, and not just Atmos ones.


I'm a little slow, hadn't thought about trying PCM. Will try that next time I experience dropouts. Will be updating the 83 to latest firmware tomorrow.


----------



## elbanev

Does anyone have an IR receiver that is confirmed to work with the D2v inputs on the back? An Amazon link would be most helpful. The one I purchased does not work.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ D2v uses an ordinary 38 kHz carrier so pretty much anything should work. Note that while the D2v supplies 12V, some receivers have other power requirements - make sure yours is being used as designed. Tech support can help with specifics - let them know which one you purchased. Also make sure rear IR input is enabled in the menu.


----------



## AVfile

Nick @ Anthem said:


> ... the code has been locked down for a while...


Why? The AVM-50v / D2v 3D are still current products, and I was led to believe engineering was still working on problems post 3.10 release (even though some were reported and solutions proposed well before 3.10 release).


----------



## thestewman

AVfile said:


> Why? The AVM-50v / D2v 3D are still current products, and I was led to believe engineering was still working on problems post 3.10 release (even though some were reported and solutions proposed well before 3.10 release).


Could you list any problems you are aware still exist and have not been corrected .


----------



## thestewman

thestewman said:


> I was thinking the same thing.
> I was going to see if everyone was waiting for the new Anthem D3 they have been showing at private trade functions.


I hijacked this from another thread as it generally confirms what I posted a few days ago

Interesting points of interest

Dolby Atmos 
DTS:X
DTS Play Fi
WiFi
HDMI 2.0 (2.0a is needed for HDR)
HDCP 2.2 
HDR
BT 2020
4K 50/60
4.4.4 subsampling

No mention of Ethernet,USB ports or other highspeed data connections or the ability to stream or pass through HEVC,VP9 0r VP10
Also nothing about 3D


----------



## AVfile

thestewman said:


> I hijacked this from another thread as it generally confirms what I posted a few days ago


You mentioned a D3? While there have been several new threads recently (and one on AVForums a few months ago) about the AVM-60, I haven't seen anything about a Statement product.


----------



## AVfile

thestewman said:


> Could you list any problems you are aware still exist and have not been corrected .


It's mainly the uninitialized 3D video board that gets me. It causes the video output to be undefined (see attached) when entering the setup menu from a pass-through source, unless you initialize it by selecting another source first.

I also get audio dropouts when starting to play a CD on a pass-through source, but not other sources.

There is a display glitch that results in incorrect audio status or NONE sometimes being displayed on the front panel. Difficult to characterize as it eventually gets refreshed.


----------



## elbanev

Nick @ Anthem said:


> ^ D2v uses an ordinary 38 kHz carrier so pretty much anything should work. Note that while the D2v supplies 12V, some receivers have other power requirements - make sure yours is being used as designed. Tech support can help with specifics - let them know which one you purchased. Also make sure rear IR input is enabled in the menu.


Hi Nick,

Thanks for your answer. I bought the following two items from Amazon hoping it would extend the range of my Anthem d2v. However it did not work.

1) Infrared Receiver Extender Cable for HD DVR's & STB's- Check Compatibility by Inteset Technologies
2) Sewell Direct SW-29727-25 25-Feet IR (Infrared) Extension Cable

On the extension cable, I cut the end off and their is a white wire and a red wire, along with lose copper wires around the jacket. I ignore the power jack on the thumb strip and I tried hooked up the white wire to GND and red to IR1. After that didn't work, I switched the white and red connections. Still no go. 

Their's got to be an easier way then trial and error. Can someone point me to an IR receiver extender that works? At this point, I'd prefer to make use of the "Extension Cable" as its already run through the walls, however I could swap out the receiver if someone suggests a known good brand.

Thanks,
Joe


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ Try working with tech support or your local dealer. The Amazon product description for 1) indicates that it's made for the specified set top box models and after listing exclusions says, "It will also not work with Stereo Receivers or IR Repeater systems or directly plugged into TVs." You need an IR receiver that has a 12V wire (not 5V or 9V unless you're also using external power made for it), a data wire, and a ground wire.


----------



## rsnodgrass

I'm finally upgraded to a 4K TV (2015 model), perhaps a Samsung UN78JU7500. I'd like to continue using my old Anthem D2. Is the best setup to have all my sources (Xbox One, PS3, TiVo) connected to the via HDMI to the TV...and then some sort of audio out back to the Anthem D2? I use Amazon Video/NetFlix/Hulu mostly. My goal is to bypass the Anthem scaler, but still use it for the audio.

It seems like most TVs do not have an HDMI output, and just support optical digital audio output (Dolby Digital/DTS multichannel). I guess that is sufficient for my 5.1 system.


----------



## stanger89

Unless you've got 4K sources, there's really no reason they can't still go through the D2.



> It seems like most TVs do not have an HDMI output, and just support optical digital audio output (Dolby Digital/DTS multichannel). I guess that is sufficient for my 5.1 system.


I think newer TVs have ARC (Audio Return Channel) though I don't know if the D2 supports that (guessing not). And most TVs won't pass 5.1 over optical for anything but the built in tuner/apps.


----------



## plgh

mookie b said:


>  AMV50v has been awesome and haven't had any issues....


PM sent


----------



## thestewman

rsnodgrass said:


> I'm finally upgraded to a 4K TV (2015 model), perhaps a Samsung UN78JU7500. I'd like to continue using my old Anthem D2. Is the best setup to have all my sources (Xbox One, PS3, TiVo) connected to the via HDMI to the TV...and then some sort of audio out back to the Anthem D2? I use Amazon Video/NetFlix/Hulu mostly. My goal is to bypass the Anthem scaler, but still use it for the audio.
> It seems like most TVs do not have an HDMI output, and just support optical digital audio output (Dolby Digital/DTS multichannel). I guess that is sufficient for my 5.1 system.


Your explanation is clear except you might as well not have the D2 in your system.
I'll try to explain my thoughts though you are clear  to do what ever you decide.

I would use the D2 for everything and not bypass it at all. Here is why.

Video - the sources you will be using are going to be mostly 1080P. Your Netflix and Amazon 4k will be used on an app in your Samsung TV. The D2 will pass a clean 1080p signal to the Samsung which can then process it into upscaled 4K. There will not be a noticeable difference in the picture quality and the HDMI switching convenience will be beneficial.

Audio- Sending a optical audio signal back to the D2 is less than good. In fact it is poor. 
Better to have it arrive in the D2 on the HDMI from the source either as PCM or Bitstream

This is an important limitation 

From Samsung Owners Manual

Note: Even though HDMI is capable of carrying a 5.1 audio signal because of HDCP (High
DensityBandwidth Content Protection) the TV cannot bypass decoded 5.1 audio content
from the HDMI input to the optical output. Because of this 5.1 audio output is not
available with the HDMI input.
Service Feedback


----------



## Orbitron

New Anthem AVRs soon. Looking to get into Atmos and DTS:X. As I'm also considering Yamaha and Marantz, what feature distinguishes the Anthems from these other brands to warrant an Anthem purchase?


----------



## AVfile

orbitron said:


> new anthem avrs soon. Looking to get into atmos and dts:x. As i'm also considering yamaha and marantz, what feature distinguishes the anthems from these other brands to warrant an anthem purchase?



Anthem Room Correction (ARC)


----------



## rsnodgrass

Excellent point about the pass through of 1080p...I had forgotten that, so it definitely makes sense to run those through the D2 as there is no loss in quality. Only those that aren't 1080P will be double scaled, but I suspect that will be such a rare occurrence that I have a non-1080P source it will not be an issue. 

So the question comes, how would you change this if you added a 4K source to the system? That is easy for the Oppo 103D: one HDMI to the TV and second HDMI to the D2. No signal loss there. I guess the only time I'll have a problem is another 4K source in the future that doesn't have a secondary HDMI output.

I'd just love to get a few more years out of my D2...that may not be possible though. I guess I could also look at a different 4K TV that has HDMI output (or something that still passes the PCM and Bitstream signals).

Thanks for your insight! It was really helpful.


----------



## stanger89

AVfile said:


> Anthem Room Correction (ARC)


Also the excellent Anthem build quality, support, and they way they integrate so well (ergonomically) into a system.



rsnodgrass said:


> Excellent point about the pass through of 1080p...I had forgotten that, so it definitely makes sense to run those through the D2 as there is no loss in quality. Only those that aren't 1080P will be double scaled, but I suspect that will be such a rare occurrence that I have a non-1080P source it will not be an issue.


Frankly, the double scaling is likely the least of the "problems" you'll have with sub 1080p sources. Also there's a good chance that the Gennum deinterlacer in the Anthem is still better than whatever is in your TV, for things like DVD and 1080i (TV). And maybe the most important question is: Can your source devices all output native resolution without scaling? Most sources you must pick an output resolution and they only output that, regardless of what the source's resolution is.



> So the question comes, how would you change this if you added a 4K source to the system? That is easy for the Oppo 103D: one HDMI to the TV and second HDMI to the D2. No signal loss there. I guess the only time I'll have a problem is another 4K source in the future that doesn't have a secondary HDMI output.


Yeah, once you start getting 4K sources without dual outputs you're going to have to upgrade your SSP to one with HDMI 2.0, or maybe get a video processor with HDMI 2.0 that can split the audio out for you.



> I'd just love to get a few more years out of my D2...that may not be possible though. I guess I could also look at a different 4K TV that has HDMI output (or something that still passes the PCM and Bitstream signals).


There's no such thing. See thestewman's post above, TV's aren't allowed to pass audio to another device due to HDCP rules.


----------



## thestewman

rsnodgrass said:


> Excellent point about the pass through of 1080p...I had forgotten that, so it definitely makes sense to run those through the D2 as there is no loss in quality. Only those that aren't 1080P will be double scaled, but I suspect that will be such a rare occurrence that I have a non-1080P source it will not be an issue.
> 
> So the question comes, how would you change this if you added a 4K source to the system? That is easy for the Oppo 103D: one HDMI to the TV and second HDMI to the D2. No signal loss there. I guess the only time I'll have a problem is another 4K source in the future that doesn't have a secondary HDMI output.
> 
> I'd just love to get a few more years out of my D2...that may not be possible though. I guess I could also look at a different 4K TV that has HDMI output (or something that still passes the PCM and Bitstream signals).
> 
> Thanks for your insight! It was really helpful.


The OPPO 103 is not 4K though it can upscale to 4K. I would only pass the 1080P and let the Samsung do the upscaling. They are supposed to have a good system.
Most new 4K displays only have one HDMI 2.0 and HDCP 2.2 input. If you were to get multiple 4K sources a 4K switch that does HDMI 2.0 and HDCP 2.2 would eliminate the problem.


----------



## Orbitron

AVfile said:


> Anthem Room Correction (ARC)


Regarding ARC, if doing 5.1.4 Atmos with modules atop fronts and rears, is the microphone aimed at the ceiling just above each module?


----------



## AVfile

Orbitron said:


> Regarding ARC, if doing 5.1.4 Atmos with modules atop fronts and rears, is the microphone aimed at the ceiling just above each module?



The mic is always aimed at the ceiling above the mic. You're not supposed to aim the mic at different spots. 

see also this discussion:



cswiger said:


> I'd worry more about how the speakers perform over such a wide angle of incidence than I would be concerned about the ARC mike, which should be fairly a decent omnidirectional variant.


(note: click the above link to be taken to the appropriate thread)


----------



## thestewman

AVfile said:


> The mic is always aimed at the ceiling above the mic. You're not supposed to aim the mic at different spots.
> 
> see also this discussion:


Can you even do ARC with more than a 7.1 system ?


----------



## AVfile

thestewman said:


> Can you even do ARC with more than a 7.1 system ?



He's talking about the new models, not out yet, but here is the answer:



Nick @ Anthem said:


> Same ARC 1M mic kit, modified ARC 2 software to support 11.1, wireless connection and new DSP hardware. As well, two speaker profile memories have been added for a total of four to allow, primarily, ceiling speaker vs Dolby-enabled vs no-height comparative demos.



(note: click the above link to be taken to the appropriate thread)


----------



## blastermaster

I'm so excited about the new models coming out. Considering the relatively modest estimated prices of the new models, I can't imagine why anyone would choose any other receiver apart from lacking patience (which, TBH, is a real challenge for me). I've read a few articles on ARC and the post calibration results are amazing (matching the target almost perfectly). I have a question for those that have an Anthem receiver - when you run ARC, can you look at a pre calibration sweep and stop it there? I say this because I'm planning on doing some room treatments so I'm hoping that I can correct my room a bit beforehand and make an easier job for ARC. 

Here's a link to one of the articles (which probably many of you have read, but here it is):

http://www.audioholics.com/room-acoustics/anthem-arc-room-eq-interview


----------



## stanger89

What you're looking for is called "Quick Measure". It will just run a quick sweep and show you the result. I think it keeps running it over and over again until you tell it to stop, which is useful, for example, if you want try different subwoofer positions.

Besides that, you can always just run ARC, and then not upload the results.


----------



## thestewman

blastermaster said:


> I'm so excited about the new models coming out. Considering the relatively modest estimated prices of the new models, I can't imagine why anyone would choose any other receiver apart from lacking patience (which, TBH, is a real challenge for me). I've read a few articles on ARC and the post calibration results are amazing (matching the target almost perfectly). I have a question for those that have an Anthem receiver - when you run ARC, can you look at a pre calibration sweep and stop it there? I say this because I'm planning on doing some room treatments so I'm hoping that I can correct my room a bit beforehand and make an easier job for ARC.
> 
> Here's a link to one of the articles (which probably many of you have read, but here it is):
> 
> http://www.audioholics.com/room-acoustics/anthem-arc-room-eq-interview


Yes to your question. It is called Quick Measure
In response to your other statements patience is going to really be a virtue.
The Anthem Statements are not inexpensive. With a constantly moving technology you would not want to spend 5 to 10 thousand and find out a key piece is suddenly missing. I am sure that is why we do not see a new Anthem Statement currently.


----------



## gerard1meehan

thestewman said:


> Yes to your question. It is called Quick Measure
> In response to your other statements patience is going to really be a virtue.
> The Anthem Statements are not inexpensive. With a constantly moving technology you would not want to spend 5 to 10 thousand and find out a key piece is suddenly missing. I am sure that is why we do not see a new Anthem Statement currently.


That's my take on the lack of a Statement prepro in the near future. 4k is still in it's infancy on the consumer side, and the new surround codecs are as well.


----------



## Bill Mac

Can ARC be added to a D2 or AVM 50 that does not come with it?

Bill


----------



## thestewman

Bill Mac said:


> Can ARC be added to a D2 or AVM 50 that does not come with it?
> 
> Bill


Yes, read here : http://www.anthemav.com/downloads/ARC-1_PDS.pdf
I see several for Anthem Statement AVRs listed on Ebay


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ D2, yes. The necessary hardware is built in. You just need the Windows PC software and the calibrated mic. Anthem should still be selling those kits. 

AVM 50, probably not. The DSP hardware needs to be swapped out (in addition to the stuff above), and I don't believe Anthem is still making those DSP upgrade kits. 
--Bob


----------



## Bill Mac

thestewman said:


> Yes, read here : http://www.anthemav.com/downloads/ARC-1_PDS.pdf
> I see several for Anthem Statement AVRs listed on Ebay





Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ D2, yes. The necessary hardware is built in. You just need the Windows PC software and the calibrated mic. Anthem should still be selling those kits.
> 
> AVM 50, probably not. The DSP hardware needs to be swapped out (in addition to the stuff above), and I don't believe Anthem is still making those DSP upgrade kits.
> --Bob


Thank you both for your thoughts . I was looking at an AVM 50 on Audiogon but that won't work. I'll be staying with the XMC-1 and Dirac for now as it's a great prepro but does have a few bugs.

Bill


----------



## Carlton Bale

The bare wire is the ground. You will use that wire for the connectiom. You will ignore either the white or the red wire. But you must use the ground wire.


----------



## Carlton Bale

elbanev said:


> On the extension cable, I cut the end off and their is a white wire and a red wire, along with lose copper wires around the jacket. I ignore the power jack on the thumb strip and I tried hooked up the white wire to GND and red to IR1. After that didn't work, I switched the white and red connections. Still no go.
> 
> Thanks,
> Joe


My previous post was in response to the above.


----------



## bohaiboy

I am considering selling my 3 year old D2V 3D. it is just too complicated for me. What would be a fair price? Original box, 2 remotes, ARC kit. The reason i am thinking of selling is it will not stay hand shaked to a balun that has HDBaseT technology. The balun works fine if I bypass the D2V.


----------



## shah993

bohaiboy said:


> I am considering selling my 3 year old D2V 3D. it is just too complicated for me. What would be a fair price? Original box, 2 remotes, ARC kit. The reason i am thinking of selling is it will not stay hand shaked to a balun that has HDBaseT technology. The balun works fine if I bypass the D2V.


I have a monoprice HD Tbase and it works just fine.If I were you I would change the balun rather than the DV2 3D.It is a superb piece of equipment,unfortunately I hear it may soon become obsolete with the new formats like Dolby Atmos etc.


----------



## plgh

cougar75 said:


>  purchasing an Anthem 50v


PM sent


----------



## Whitl

I have a D2 that is about 8 years old, it is starting to give me trouble when i power it on, it just sits with the display saying Anthem D2 Powering On, and doesn't do anything else after about 3 shutdowns and startups finally move off that and recognizes the input that is attached to the HDMI port, never had this before and was wondering if anybody else had experienced this kind of behaviour.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Start by disconnecting everything from the D2 -- even the power plug for a bit. Then with just power connected, see if it boots up normally as seen in the Front Panel. If so, you likely had a faulty cable or device connected. 

If not, I suggest you reinstall the firmware. There's a way for the original D2 firmware to get corrupted if the power fails, and one symptom of that is that the D2 seems to run in slow motion. 

If a firmware re-install (which also means you Reset Factory Defaults) doesn't fix the problem -- still with only power connected -- then the D2 will need hardware service. 
--Bob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

If the software installer says it cannot find the D2 (non-v and depending on production date) then erasing flash memory before installing software may help - contact tech support for details.

Noting that the original problem description indicates that the bootup period is unusually long after which the unit remains fairly unresponsive, this condition is not to be confused with a similar-looking one where the unit never gets out of the startup screen. In that case one of two internal fuses may be blown and the cure depends on whether the replacement fuse also blows.


----------



## Whitl

Nick @ Anthem said:


> If the software installer says it cannot find the D2 (non-v and depending on production date) then erasing flash memory before installing software may help - contact tech support for details.
> 
> Noting that the original problem description indicates that the bootup period is unusually long after which the unit remains fairly unresponsive, this condition is not to be confused with a similar-looking one where the unit never gets out of the startup screen. In that case one of two internal fuses may be blown and the cure depends on whether the replacement fuse also blows.


Bob and Nick

Thanks for the info, the problem occurs if the unit is turned off overnight, the next morning it will take turning it on and off about 3 times and then it will finally move off the "Powering on" screen and finish booting up all the way. If it is just turned on for a few hours it will boot up completely with no problems.


----------



## RobDec

*Hdcd*

Hi,
I own a D2v 3D and an Oppo 103d. My question is when playing a HDCD disc should I enable HDCD through the Oppo or just let the D2v do the upscaling, or both?

Thanks, Rob


----------



## AVfile

The D2v does not support HDCD but Oppo does. To "hear" the benefits of HDCD you would need to use the Oppo DACs and output analog to the D2v. It could then be re-digitized at 96k/24 and upsampled to 192k by the Anthem. It would be an interesting comparison versus just going direct 44k/16 out of the Oppo digitally to the D2v. Let us know what you hear!


----------



## RobDec

Thanks AVfile
Will do! I think what I need to do is turn HDCD on with the Oppo, then change the ADC in the setup menu of the D2v to 96khz. And then AB it.
Correct me if Im wrong.
Rob


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

^ Inevitable differences: a. 6 dB level increase when HDCD decoding is in effect* and b. distortion when it isn't, as shown by the mashed peaks in figure 2, lower graph:

www.audiomisc.co.uk/HFN/HDCD/Enigma.html

*this doubles output voltage and lowering analog input level in the D2v menu may be necessary especially with analog-DSP mode - use the on-screen level meter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

You can also enable HDCD decoding in the OPPO 103D and cable via HDMI to the D2v 3D to hear the result.

The OPPO will output HDMI LPCM 2.0 44.1kHz 20-bit (which is what results from the HDCD decoding) packaged for output on HDMI as 24-bit with padding zeroes.

If you are using Stereo Analog for your audio input to the D2v 3D, and have no conflicts with digital recording devices you are ALSO trying to use with the D2v 3D, then yes, you should up the re-digitizer's sampling rate (the ADC) to 96kHz for 2.0 input. (It's already there by default for multi-channel Analog input.) This is true for all stereo Analog input, not just HDCD. The higher sampling rate allows for wider frequency bandwidth -- i.e., has nothing to do with whether the increased dynamic range will be rendered correctly.

----------------------------------------

HDCD is a method for encoding 20-bits of dynamic range (loudest to softest volumes) in a 16-bit LPCM stream, at the expense of a small increase in Noise Floor. Most HDCD recordings are authored so that -6dB attenuation occurs as part of the HDCD decoding, to allow extra headroom for that additional dynamic range. Compensate by raising main Volume in the D2v 3D if you wish. If HDCD is not decoded, it plays like "normal" CDs -- i.e., as LPCM 2.0 44.1 kHz 16-bit. Thus, for the majority of HDCD discs, you can hear the difference between HDCD decoded or not, simply by whether the volume drops -6dB, indicating decoding is happening.

The reason why the OPPO offers an HDCD decoding choice is specifically for correct handling of digital audio output. HDCD was conceived back before digital audio connections out of players were the norm. It was designed under the assumption that ANALOG output would be used, and works just fine for that.

The problem with digital audio output is that the result of decoding HDCD leaves enough remnants of the original matrix in place that a downstream HDCD decoder (i.e., in a Receiver) will get confused and think that it has to engage. This results in periodic, audible glitches in the audio as the Receiver repeatedly activates and deactivates its HDCD decoder.

So in the OPPO:

1) If you are using Analog output for audio, then set HDCD Decoding ON in the OPPO. NOTE: HDCD Decoding can not happen on an Analog input stream, only on a digital input stream, so whether or not your receiver offers HDCD Decoding for digital audio input makes no difference for Analog input. For Analog input, the player must do the Decoding.

2) If you are using Digital output for audio, and if your receiver or pre-pro does *NOT* offer HDCD decoding -- as, for example, in the case of the D2v 3D -- then set HDCD Decoding ON in the OPPO.

3) If you are using Digital output for audio, and if your receiver or pre-pro *DOES* offer HDCD decoding, then set HDCD Decoding OFF in the OPPO. Let your Receiver do the decoding for that digital audio input of the HDCD stream.

(By factory default, the OPPO ships with HDCD Decoding OFF.)

In the OPPO, you should also set DTS Neo:6 Mode to OFF, as enabling it limits the digital audio signal path for stereo content -- which also impacts the Analog output.
--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Nick and Bob,
Thank you for your posts. They were very informative. Ill be using Bob's #2 choice. Have been very buzy today. Will AB it sometime later.

Thank you 
Rob


----------



## RobDec

Hi
I have another question. I was watching a baseball game and noticed on a commercial (Menards) the voices came out of me rear speakers. I thought that that was just how its supposed to be, But then later on the same commercial the voices came out of the center speaker as is should. I was using 5.1+PLIIx movie, and it did not change during both commercials, and I have a Directv sat box. The voices coming out of the rear channels has happened before, but the same commercial was always the same. Is there an explanation for this?

Can anyone please answer my question?
Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Hi
> I have another question. I was watching a baseball game and noticed on a commercial (Menards) the voices came out of me rear speakers. I thought that that was just how its supposed to be, But then later on the same commercial the voices came out of the center speaker as is should. I was using 5.1+PLIIx movie, and it did not change during both commercials, and I have a Directv sat box. The voices coming out of the rear channels has happened before, but the same commercial was always the same. Is there an explanation for this?
> 
> Can anyone please answer my question?
> Rob


Ask Direct TV or the people in charge of the feed they were receiving. Not a problem with your Anthem receiver as it was handling what they were sending.


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## RobDec

Thanks Thestewman
I think it is an issue with directv, because I had another issue where during a commercial and using DD5.1 +PlIIx. The commercial would switch on the front panel to 2.0 PlIIx, and when it returned to the program it would stick on 2.0 PlIIx. The workaround was to switch inputs on the processor and then return to SAT1 or go into the directv menu under audio and switch Dolby Digital to "OFF" and back to "ON". I texted Anthem support and they seemed to think it was the Directv box. 
I upgraded from a AVM50v 3d to the D2v 3D and both had this same problem. The only constant was the Directv box. And since going into the Directv menu for the workaround, I would say its Directv.

Any further insight would be very helpful!
Rob


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## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Thanks Thestewman
> I think it is an issue with directv, because I had another issue where during a commercial and using DD5.1 +PlIIx. The commercial would switch on the front panel to 2.0 PlIIx, and when it returned to the program it would stick on 2.0 PlIIx. The workaround was to switch inputs on the processor and then return to SAT1 or go into the directv menu under audio and switch Dolby Digital to "OFF" and back to "ON". I texted Anthem support and they seemed to think it was the Directv box.
> I upgraded from a AVM50v 3d to the D2v 3D and both had this same problem. The only constant was the Directv box. And since going into the Directv menu for the workaround, I would say its Directv.
> 
> Any further insight would be very helpful!
> Rob


I have Comcast (Xfinity) and can see the Anthem sometimes switching to 2.0 during commercials.I would imagine the broadcasters charge extra for HD sound just as they do for sending commercials
in 1080 HD or 4 X 3 SD.


----------



## RobDec

Thanks again Thestewman
I have no problem with it switching to 2.0 on commercials , but when the program or game come back it sticks with 2.0 and doesn't return to 5.1. I do very much appreciate your time and hopefully its just my Sat box.

Rob


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## greyflag

RobDec said:


> Thanks again Thestewman
> I have no problem with it switching to 2.0 on commercials , but when the program or game come back it sticks with 2.0 and doesn't return to 5.1. I do very much appreciate your time and hopefully its just my Sat box.
> 
> Rob


I'm also a Comcast subscriber and have experienced the 2.0 issue many times with my AVM50. The only thing that seems to work is to switch to a different source (ie: DVD) then back to the Comcast box. Crude, complete with all the handshaking noise unless muted, but effective...

Glenn


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## Bob Pariseau

^ Depending on the Comcast box, its HDMI implementation may be so broken there's no hope. As a workaround, wire Optical to the Anthem as well and set up your Source definition to get video on the HDMI feed and audio on the Optical feed. Set the Comcast to send Dolby Bitstreams on its Optical out.
--Bob


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## bluemark81

My D2v is now several years old (7?) and has served me well, but I'm getting the itch. Are there any rumors on when Anthem plans to release a replacement for the D2v and what it might have for features?


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## AVfile

Nope. They seem to be concentrating on the AVM-60 / MRX style units.


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## RobDec

greyflag said:


> I'm also a Comcast subscriber and have experienced the 2.0 issue many times with my AVM50. The only thing that seems to work is to switch to a different source (ie: DVD) then back to the Comcast box. Crude, complete with all the handshaking noise unless muted, but effective...
> 
> Glenn


 Glenn,
Talked to Anthem support, and they gave me a solution. When you get the 2.0 issue, just hit the volume "UP" or "DOWN" button ,and the proper format might appear. Im not saying it will work for you, but it did for me. Hope this helps!

Rob


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## AVfile

RobDec said:


> Glenn,
> Talked to Anthem support, and they gave me a solution. When you get the 2.0 issue, just hit the volume "UP" or "DOWN" button ,and the proper format might appear. Im not saying it will work for you, but it did for me. Hope this helps!
> 
> Rob



That's just a workaround for a display glitch. They often use the term "solution" lightly, by the way.


----------



## RobDec

AVfile 
My mistake not Anthem. But it's still just one tweek with no audio issues

Rob


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## greyflag

RobDec said:


> Glenn,
> Talked to Anthem support, and they gave me a solution. When you get the 2.0 issue, just hit the volume "UP" or "DOWN" button ,and the proper format might appear. Im not saying it will work for you, but it did for me. Hope this helps!
> 
> Rob


Thanks Rob, I'll give it a try next time...


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## Mike Hassold

Hello: Very happy with my AVM50 3D but I'm planning on a new computer and was wondering if anyone has any experience running ARC with Windows 10? Anthem tech support told me that, so far, they've only tried it with ARC2.
Mike Hassold


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## johnnyphung

*Need help with ARC for Anthem D2*

Help Please!

After reading many posts of how good an Anthem D2 is, I decide to go ahead and bought one for my HT and music enjoyment. I also purchased an ARC kit because I heard it can makes a different in sound quality. After receiving all my gears, I ran a room correction setup but I also ran into problem, microphone does not detected from my window 10 laptop. I installed the software came with it and ran a software update from Anthem website, installed a keyspan adapter but some how keep getting a message "fail to have a valid microphone, check microphone connection." Wondering if window 10 is the problem here? Please help. Thank you in advance.


----------



## thestewman

johnnyphung said:


> Help Please!
> 
> After reading many posts of how good an Anthem D2 is, I decide to go ahead and bought one for my HT and music enjoyment. I also purchased an ARC kit because I heard it can makes a different in sound quality. After receiving all my gears, I ran a room correction setup but I also ran into problem, microphone does not detected from my window 10 laptop. I installed the software came with it and ran a software update from Anthem website, installed a keyspan adapter but some how keep getting a message "fail to have a valid microphone, check microphone connection." Wondering if window 10 is the problem here? Please help. Thank you in advance.


I have not done ARC in a long time so hopefully I remember the correct procedure.
If not somebody can correct me
After running the ARC CD you should be able to check for the correct CAl and Anthem.file
Go to File Explorer and click on Program File (v86) then Anthem, then AnthemRoomCorrection.
You should see two files there.
Older kits will be like 146735_123550.Cal and 146735_123550.Anthem.file
With the first number the D2 serial number and the second number the microphone serial number
Newer kits will be 123550.cal Only the microphone serial number.
If the files are not there. You will have to copy them from the ARC CD and paste them there.
Make sure the D2 serial number and the microphone serial number are a match


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## johnnyphung

thestewman said:


> I have not done ARC in a long time so hopefully I remember the correct procedure.
> If not somebody can correct me
> After running the ARC CD you should be able to check for the correct CAl and Anthem.file
> Go to File Explorer and click on Program File (v86) then Anthem, then AnthemRoomCorrection.
> You should see two files there.
> Older kits will be like 146735_123550.Cal and 146735_123550.Anthem.file
> With the first number the D2 serial number and the second number the microphone serial number
> Newer kits will be 123550.cal Only the microphone serial number.
> If the files are not there. You will have to copy them from the ARC CD and paste them there.
> Make sure the D2 serial number and the microphone serial number are a match


Hi, thanks for the reply. I did what you say, I found a Cal file with the microphone serial number, but when I try to open it, it is unreadable. Do I have to open it with some special apps? If so, do you know which app should be able to read? I opened it with microsoft word and it appear with some weird letters.


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## thestewman

johnnyphung said:


> Hi, thanks for the reply. I did what you say, I found a Cal file with the microphone serial number, but when I try to open it, it is unreadable. Do I have to open it with some special apps? If so, do you know which app should be able to read? I opened it with microsoft word and it appear with some weird letters.


Did you locate the cal file in the Anthem Folder ? If yes that is where it is supposed to be so all is well there. 
Did you check the serial number on the cal file with the serial number on the microphone ?

If the cal file was NOT in the folder locate it on the CD and right click and copy or Ctrl C the file and paste it , Ctrl V, into the AnthemRoomCorrection folder. Do not open or attempt to read it just paste it into the folder,


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## AVfile

johnnyphung said:


> I also ran into problem, microphone does not detected from my window 10 laptop.



Does your computer have a USB 2 port or only USB 3?

See this post by tranle:




tranle said:


> Not Bob, but I had a similar problem a few month ago with a Lenovo laptop and it seems that the Anthem mic driver does not like to be in a USB3 mode.
> Check if you have an option in your bios be in a USB2 mode (compatibility or forced).
> 
> Without it my notebook would see the mic in the device manager app but ARC could not see it.


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## johnnyphung

Yes I did everything you said and still didn't work. Found out arc doesn't support window 10. What a relieve. Cost me 2 days sleepless but thanks for your input.


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## thestewman

johnnyphung said:


> Yes I did everything you said and still didn't work. Found out arc doesn't support window 10. What a relieve. Cost me 2 days sleepless but thanks for your input.


If so that makes no sense. As a major manufacturer Anthem has had sufficient time to get the necesary firmware out


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## AVfile

johnnyphung said:


> Yes I did everything you said and still didn't work. Found out arc doesn't support window 10. What a relieve. Cost me 2 days sleepless but thanks for your input.



Were you also referring to my post just before your last? Did Anthem confirm it's not a USB3 issue?


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## johnnyphung

Sorry, I didn't see your previous post. Let me take all that exciting back, it still didn't work after I restored my laptop back to window 8. Now seeing your previous post, I am starting to suspect the usb3 and usb2 thing. I'm don't know much about computer so if you could please help me how to find out if it usb3 or 2 on my laptop. And if it is the case, what can I do to get usb2 to compatible with arc? Just bought a new laptop couple months ago too


----------



## Whitl

Whitl said:


> Bob and Nick
> 
> Thanks for the info, the problem occurs if the unit is turned off overnight, the next morning it will take turning it on and off about 3 times and then it will finally move off the "Powering on" screen and finish booting up all the way. If it is just turned on for a few hours it will boot up completely with no problems.


Nick

Can you tell me if the boot up sequence for the D2 is different depending on what input is being used, I hear the D2 click every time I power on but if i'm using an input that uses the HDMI to the TV it takes several times of pouring on and off for it to connect using the HDMI, if I switch to the 2-channel input it works every time. Up front it would appear it's the HDMI cable if the boot up sequence on the D2 is the same for all outputs. The funny thing is that once i get it going it will work fine all day long and only cause trouble when shut down overnight.


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## Nick @ Anthem

Whitl said:


> if i'm using an input that uses the HDMI to the TV it takes several times of pouring on and off for it to connect using the HDMI, if I switch to the 2-channel input it works every time. ... once i get it going it will work fine all day long and only cause trouble when shut down overnight.


Does this happen with all your HDMI sources, or just specific ones? Please contact tech support with TV and source model numbers involved, what exactly appears on the D2 front panel and TV screen during the problem, brief description of cabling and whether other devices such as port savers or converters are in use, video output settings in the setup menu, and how long the system worked as expected before the problem appeared. Also check to make sure latest software is in use all around.

Once these things are out of the way TS may ask you to try moving cables around as an initial step but if it's convenient enough you can try that now to see whether the problem follows.


----------



## gerard1meehan

Maybe someone could shed some light on a small issue I am having. As I noted in some posts (way back) I utilize HDMI 2 out of My D2v3D into a splitter to share the video to two other flat panels within my home. Since this was not the intended purpose of the hdmi2-out I had to do a few tricks to get it to work how I wanted. In this configuration the alternate TV’s always had picture, but if I switched sources I’d lose all audio. I worked around this by introducing an Audio imbedder into the HDMI path prior to the splitter. I essentially take the analog Tape out and that is inserted into the HDMI audio Path. Yes it’s a totally convoluted, but it works like a charm. That is except for one device, my amazon Fire stick. 

When I utilize the fire stick I get no audio out of the tape, or any other Analog output. Is this due to a copy protection issue? I could get the Amazon Fire TV and that has an optical out, but curious if I can make the current stick work


And yes I am utilizing the hdmi 2 out in a way the Anthem was not designed for


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## AVfile

johnnyphung said:


> Sorry, I didn't see your previous post. Let me take all that exciting back, it still didn't work after I restored my laptop back to window 8. Now seeing your previous post, I am starting to suspect the usb3 and usb2 thing. I'm don't know much about computer so if you could please help me how to find out if it usb3 or 2 on my laptop. And if it is the case, what can I do to get usb2 to compatible with arc? Just bought a new laptop couple months ago too



Check the laptop manufacturer's site. There is also a great site from Germany called notebookcheck.net that has detailed specs for most major brands. You just need to know the exact model number. There might be a USB2 port on it you can use. Otherwise, if they are all USB3 you will have to try poking around the BIOS settings (which is not something I want to get into here, but you can google instructions for your make). You could also try asking the dealer you bought your equipment from.


----------



## thestewman

gerard1meehan said:


> Maybe someone could shed some light on a small issue I am having. As I noted in some posts (way back) I utilize HDMI 2 out of My D2v3D into a splitter to share the video to two other flat panels within my home. Since this was not the intended purpose of the hdmi2-out I had to do a few tricks to get it to work how I wanted. In this configuration the alternate TV’s always had picture, but if I switched sources I’d lose all audio. I worked around this by introducing an Audio imbedder into the HDMI path prior to the splitter. I essentially take the analog Tape out and that is inserted into the HDMI audio Path. Yes it’s a totally convoluted, but it works like a charm. That is except for one device, my amazon Fire stick.
> 
> When I utilize the fire stick I get no audio out of the tape, or any other Analog output. Is this due to a copy protection issue? I could get the Amazon Fire TV and that has an optical out, but curious if I can make the current stick work
> 
> 
> And yes I am utilizing the hdmi 2 out in a way the Anthem was not designed for


The audio copy protection maybe the issue
There is a warning in the D2v manual that when using HDMI 2 and changing the source in HDMI 1 you might lose the HDMI2 audio copy protection.

Bottom of page 17


----------



## Thxtheater

thestewman said:


> The audio copy protection maybe the issue
> There is a warning in the D2v manual that when using HDMI 2 and changing the source in HDMI 1 you might lose the HDMI2 audio copy protection.
> 
> Bottom of page 17


Excellent suggestion from @thewestman to look at debugging your situation. If that doesn't end up being the problem, then look at the old faithful solution that's been posted about previously with the Dr. HDMI. Here's the link that references an AppleTV having audio and video issues.


----------



## Kensmith48

Nick,
Any plans in the works on upgrading ARC to Windows 10 in the future?


----------



## Orup70

*Anthem D2v/P5 randomly switching off channels*

My Anthem D2v connected to an Anthem P5 have suddenly starten to randomly switching off all channels, except for the left front speaker (for some reason). After a few minutes the channels turn on again and the pattern repeats itself after another pause. The problem began this morning.

I have the Anthem P5 set to automatic and it has worked without any real problems for the last 5 years. It doesn't matter which source is used. I have never tried using a trigger cable, but i still want to fix the problem with automatic line sensing anyway. 

Is this a "know issue"? Maybe firmware related or perhaps more likely a hardware problem? I suppose the problem may be caused by either the D2v or the P5. 

Any ideas?

/ Påhl


----------



## thestewman

Orup70 said:


> My Anthem D2v connected to an Anthem P5 have suddenly starten to randomly switching off all channels, except for the left front speaker (for some reason). After a few minutes the channels turn on again and the pattern repeats itself after another pause. The problem began this morning.
> 
> I have the Anthem P5 set to automatic and it has worked without any real problems for the last 5 years. It doesn't matter which source is used. I have never tried using a trigger cable, but i still want to fix the problem with automatic line sensing anyway.
> 
> Is this a "know issue"? Maybe firmware related or perhaps more likely a hardware problem? I suppose the problem may be caused by either the D2v or the P5.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> / Påhl


You might try switching the input cables to the P5 making note of which ones you switch . Then when the audio cuts out make note if the only running channel stays at the same speaker or moves to another channel. This should determine whether it is the D2 or the P5.


----------



## Whitl

Nick @ Anthem said:


> Does this happen with all your HDMI sources, or just specific ones? Please contact tech support with TV and source model numbers involved, what exactly appears on the D2 front panel and TV screen during the problem, brief description of cabling and whether other devices such as port savers or converters are in use, video output settings in the setup menu, and how long the system worked as expected before the problem appeared. Also check to make sure latest software is in use all around.
> 
> Once these things are out of the way TS may ask you to try moving cables around as an initial step but if it's convenient enough you can try that now to see whether the problem follows.


Nick

Contacted tech support and tried some things with no success.

I have 3 HDMI inputs, a rogers cable box, OPPO 95, and a Roku, the TV is a Sony Bravia about 4 years old. Tried changing cables doesn't seem to make any difference, the problem appears to be with the HDMI as if I go to 2 channel analog which is the Sony HAPZE1 I will get audio right away, if I switch to an HDMI input the D2 displays the name of input but I have no audio or video, the Sony says there no input connected. Doesn't seem to matter which HDMI input is used the result is the same. After turning the D2 off and on several times it finally connect but it is getting harder every day. I have checked all 3 input devices with respect to firmware upgrades and they all say I have the current firmware. I am running V1.33 on the D2 and this setup has been in place for several years with no problems until just recently with this mystery.


----------



## Orup70

thestewman said:


> You might try switching the input cables to the P5 making note of which ones you switch . Then when the audio cuts out make note if the only running channel stays at the same speaker or moves to another channel. This should determine whether it is the D2 or the P5.


Thanks, good advice!. 

My cables are quite hard to move (short and cables everywhere, locking each other) and the P5 makes the media bench *very* heavy. But I managed to remove the left front source cable and replace it with the right front cable. 

The result: when the power is randomly cut from the P5 channels (loudly clicking the relays) — the center goes away and the left front remains. Since the left front now is driven by the right front source from the D2v, my interpretation is that the P5 is "broken" in the power control units for all channels except the left front. 

I found this post in the "Antem Amp (P2 and P5) owners thread" and it seems to be a common fault with the Anthem amps:



boe said:


> …if I were you I'd save the money on the Anthem. While I really like the sound, they have a circuit board that goes bad on a LOT of them. Anthem doesn't want you to buy the board and replace it yourself so you have to haul that rather heavy device to an Anthem authorized repair center. If the Anthems didn't have that issue with the bad circuit board, I'd actually recommend them but since I've seen it on 3 out of three Anthem amps all bought from different locations and years apart, I'm pretty sure it has to be a common issue.


Since I'm located in Sweden and we don't have any offical Anthem retailers or repair centers, I have a slight problem — or rather, a heavy problem. So the next step is contacting the Anthem support I guess… 

But I'm glad I never sold my old amp right now.  This will take a while to fix! I just have to buy some XLR to RCA adapters to make it possible to connect though.

/ Påhl


----------



## tranle

@Orup70
If you think that your P5 Trigger are going bad, there are 3 mode to it: Trigger, Manual, Auto
You can try first Manual to make sure that it does not turn off by itself.
Then try the trigger with a cable going your D2V trigger to your P5.


----------



## AVfile

Orup70 said:


> The result: when the power is randomly cut from the P5 channels (loudly clicking the relays) — the center goes away and the left front remains. Since the left front now is driven by the right front source from the D2v, my interpretation is that the P5 is "broken" in the power control units for all channels except the left front.
> 
> 
> 
> Since I'm located in Sweden and we don't have any offical Anthem retailers or repair centers, I have a slight problem — or rather, a heavy problem. So the next step is contacting the Anthem support I guess…



It does seem like the amp has the bad circuit board. Anthem might be able to sell you one and you could get a local tech to install it. Is it under warranty? 

What Anthem wants is not relevant (unless the unit is still under warranty and they're paying the repair bill) so take the amp to a local, independent repair shop of your choice. Once they confirm the bad component they (or you) could order it from Anthem. Shipping a package that heavy to Canada and back is going to be ridiculously expensive, close to $1000 by air. By sea it will take months.


----------



## Orup70

tranle said:


> @Orup70
> If you think that your P5 Trigger are going bad, there are 3 mode to it: Trigger, Manual, Auto
> You can try first Manual to make sure that it does not turn off by itself.
> Then try the trigger with a cable going your D2V trigger to your P5.


I have nerver used cable triggering. If I understand correctly, I need to buy a standard mono 3.5 mm "sound cable" and just connect it to any of the three "trigger out" connections of the D2v and to the "trigger in" connection of the P5? 

But, if I've understood it correctly, all three trigger modes of the P5 — Trigger, Manual, Auto — always turn on/off all five "mono blocks" inside the amp (or all five amp channels). Is there individual line sensing circuits for each line? I.e. if the source only outputs stereo (left and right front) will the P5 turn off the center and rear lines? 

I don't think so. From my experience and from reading the manual, I believe all channels are either all on or all off—regardless of the triggering mode. Or?

Anyway, I tried your suggestion using the Manual setting. And the result is identical. When powering on the system, all channels are on at first, and after about 5–10 minutes all channels turn off, except the left front. They stay off for about 2–4 minutes and then turn on again for about the same period and the pattern repeats itself. 

I will buy a 3.5 mm mono cable today and do some testing of the Triggering mode from the D2v. Will report back after more testing…

/ Påhl


----------



## fatbottom

The only power amp I am aware of which can switch off unused channels is one of the Tag Mclaren amplifiers.

For typical av pre switching on your poweramp (from standby) you need a 3.5mm mono to 3.5mm mono cable, if both have the 3.5mm jacks. For my MC-8 the trigger outputs are on a screw down trigger block, so you just snip one 3.5mm end off. The ATI amp has 3.5mm connector.

Have tried it, but I will just use the old manual method, until my av pre has two outputs.

I'd like the trigger outputs

1) ATI 2003 for L/C/R. Switch on for 2ch
2) ATI 2004 for surrounds. Switch on when watch a movie soundtrack

Not sure you can do that. As for Anthem, seeing how much the AVM 60 is...probably over my budget but maybe better than AV7702 Anthem room correction supposed to be very good, and bit more customisation, plus you can see what it's doing, with graphs on the PC.


----------



## Orup70

fatbottom said:


> The only power amp I am aware of which can switch off unused channels is one of the Tag Mclaren amplifiers.
> 
> For typical av pre switching on your poweramp (from standby) you need a 3.5mm mono to 3.5mm mono cable, if both have the 3.5mm jacks. For my MC-8 the trigger outputs are on a screw down trigger block, so you just snip one 3.5mm end off. The ATI amp has 3.5mm connector.


Funny, my old amp is the Tag McLaren 5x100R and it's got individual triggering of unused channels. But it only works since Tag McLaren used a custom data channel between all units to allow special functionally and syncing between units. Instead of a simple "one bit" (on/off) triggering cable they had a data bus with Ethernet type cables—one Ethernet cable for data in and one cable for data out on each unit. They probably had their own protocol and signal interface, but 8 wires in each cable and separate cables for in and out makes it easy to communicate complex information. Like which channels are used to allow the amp to switch them off at the power stage to lower interference between the amp channels and to lower the temperature and electricity used. 

The downside is of course, when you mix with units from other manufacturers. Like now when I need to temporarily replace my P5 amp with Tag McLaren, I have no way to trigger the Tag on/off and it doesn't have any automatic mode. Need to manually press the power button. Like in the old days! 

Thanks for the info on trigger cabling! I will get a cable and try tonight. Just for completeness. I still want my P5 to work without faults even if I may find a work around. It just doesn't feel right to have a half-broken amp, especially consider the amount I paid for it. 

But still, I've had the Anthem P5 for about five years now and during that time it has worked flawlessly and it's a superb sounding amplifier! 

I do like your idea, to have multiple trigger ports on the amp and AV processor to allow separate triggering of stereo and multichannel sound. Similar functionality of the Tag McLaren system but with simple conventional technology instead of a proprietary data bus. 

/ Påhl


----------



## fatbottom

Pretty sure it had a remote control?

http://www.jackvandijk.nl/hifi_tag_mclaren_100x5r.php


----------



## Orup70

AVfile said:


> It does seem like the amp has the bad circuit board. Anthem might be able to sell you one and you could get a local tech to install it. Is it under warranty?
> 
> What Anthem wants is not relevant (unless the unit is still under warranty and they're paying the repair bill) so take the amp to a local, independent repair shop of your choice. Once they confirm the bad component they (or you) could order it from Anthem. Shipping a package that heavy to Canada and back is going to be ridiculously expensive, close to $1000 by air. By sea it will take months.


Unfortunately, it's not under warranty anymore. I've had it for about five years now. But it seems to to have a broken power control circuit. I will contact support and ask them how to proceed. I hope they agree to sell the just the circuit board and ship it. Not expecting it to be cheap though. 

I did notice this in the manual:


> Note: The amplifier is equipped with a thermal shutoff feature.If it overheats, the affected channel will remain off until the temperature falls below the shut off threshold.


This feature is probably causing the symptoms I'm experiencing, but I've done some testing of the temperature and the maximal temp I usually get above the amp is 94° F (34.5° C). Nothing that should case any thermal shutoff and especially not always on the same 4 channels and never on the left front channel. Something must be broken…

/ Påhl


----------



## Orup70

fatbottom said:


> Pretty sure it had a remote control?
> 
> http://www.jackvandijk.nl/hifi_tag_mclaren_100x5r.php


Yeah, that's correct. Had forgot. I never used it on my old system. 

Might be good for me to get some exercise though... 

/ Påhl


----------



## jitenn

*Fire TV Stick and AVM50v*

Hi all,

Two questions related to connecting a Fire TV Stick to one of the HDMI inputs on the AVM50v:

1) Frequent audio dropouts, both with Amazon Prime movies and Netflix. Interestingly, have not noticed any with Amazon Prime music. Thoughts? Anyone else having the same issue? Also, the only way I can figure out to restore sound is to power off/on the AVM50v. Is there a shortcut / trick I should be aware of?

2) For some listening sessions, I prefer to run 2-channel sound to a tubed preamp. I know, I know, I just like the "warm sound of tubes". Considering the Fire TV Stick does not come with L/R output jacks, (how) can I use the AVM50v's REC out jacks as the input for the 2-channel preamp? Please note that the volume on the Anthem will be set to mute for the duration of my tube listening sessions, so I would need REC out to output signal even when the Anthem is muted.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## johnnyphung

Ok, a little update on that usb problem not picking up the arc mic. I went to best buy and bought an external usb 2.0 for $12 then it started to work on my new laptop, but running into another weird problem, fronts and center calibrated, but surrounds and rears are not. Keep getting message "error not able to pick up a proper respond, 0x03." I then brought a B&W floor speaker from another room to replace that surround, then it calibrated. Anybody knows why the Anthem ARC choose what speaker to calibrate? It doesn't make sense at all. My surrounds and rears are Martin Logan Motion 4 bought it a few months ago brand new out of a box. Please help. Thanks


----------



## Stevetd

Quick question: If I set the resolution to "Auto" and I feed it something in 24fps why does it output 60fps?


----------



## thestewman

Stevetd said:


> Quick question: If I set the resolution to "Auto" and I feed it something in 24fps why does it output 60fps?


60p is the video output frame rate not the resolution.

Are you sure your source supplies a native frame rate ? Either 24p 30p or 60p.
And does your display accept the different frame rates ? 
There is no Auto in the D2v video output. Where are youseiing that ?

It was recommended you set a separate source button re: DVD1 for 1080/24 and DvD2 for 1080p/60.


----------



## vagrahb

Hi Guys,
I might be bringing up an old topic here. I have gone thru most of the Arc setup posts in this thread and I would really like to know what is the best microphone placement that has worked with the Arc ? I know every room correction has a set of defined placements that work. Currently my setup still does not sound right and I think its to do with the arc setup. What is the best microphone placement that has worked for most of you guys here ?


----------



## MitchPope

vagrahb said:


> Hi Guys,
> I might be bringing up an old topic here. I have gone thru most of the Arc setup posts in this thread and I would really like to know what is the best microphone placement that has worked with the Arc ? I know every room correction has a set of defined placements that work. Currently my setup still does not sound right and I think its to do with the arc setup. What is the best microphone placement that has worked for most of you guys here ?


It should basically make an "X" with your MLP in the centre. Make sure your points are at least 18" away from each other, preferably 24". Mic (at your ear level when seated) pointed at the ceiling. If your chair/sofa reclines, recline it so nothing is blocking "line of sight" to the mic from the speakers.


----------



## gerard1meehan

Is that the consensus? I've been doing a different layout, and I am very curious what is optimum as well


----------



## thestewman

gerard1meehan said:


> Is that the consensus? I've been doing a different layout, and I am very curious what is optimum as well


consensus ? Those are the instructions as laid out by Anthem.

I think the consensus is that you set your system up without ARC and get the best speaker locations, direction, wall treatment etc before you use ARC to overcome the room characteristics.


----------



## vagrahb

gerard1meehan said:


> Is that the consensus? I've been doing a different layout, and I am very curious what is optimum as well


Anthem support recommends the following layout


----------



## gerard1meehan

vagrahb said:


> Anthem support recommends the following layout


OK, I used the recommended layout. I was intrigued by the other useres x formation with the center as point 1


----------



## gerard1meehan

thestewman said:


> consensus ? Those are the instructions as laid out by Anthem.
> 
> I think the consensus is that you set your system up without ARC and get the best speaker locations, direction, wall treatment etc before you use ARC to overcome the room characteristics.


Was curious about the x Arc formation posted. Agree the path you laid out is the best


----------



## thestewman

gerard1meehan said:


> Was curious about the x Arc formation posted. Agree the path you laid out is the best


What I found is most important and many don't spend the time doing is the basic setup before running ARC.
By doing as much as you can before ARC you allow ARC more processing power to be used on other corrections


----------



## Whitl

vagrahb said:


> Anthem support recommends the following layout


Interesting configuration, having never seen that setup that with any ARC literature, do you happen to have any distance measurements for the 2nd figure with respect to point 4 and 5 behind the chair, I always ran the 5 points straight across with 2 feet separating each point.


----------



## goatwuss

Hi There,

I'd like to use my D2 as a processor only for ARC, and use another preamp for volume control.

I thought using the 'Zone 2' or 'tape' output would be perfect, but it looks like ARC is not applied to these outputs?

Is there any way to get a line-level output from the D2 with ARC applied thereby bypassing the volume control in the D2?

thanks,

Todd @ AudioFlea
audioflea.com


----------



## stanger89

Set the D2 volume to 0dB?


----------



## thestewman

goatwuss said:


> Hi There,
> 
> I'd like to use my D2 as a processor only for ARC, and use another preamp for volume control.
> 
> I thought using the 'Zone 2' or 'tape' output would be perfect, but it looks like ARC is not applied to these outputs?
> 
> Is there any way to get a line-level output from the D2 with ARC applied thereby bypassing the volume control in the D2?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Todd @ AudioFlea
> audioflea.com


Reason or purpose ?


----------



## goatwuss

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the responses regarding using the D2 in processor only mode.

stanger89 - "Set the D2 volume to 0dB?"

Wouldn't the volume control still be in the circuit even if it's set to 0db? What I'm trying to accomplish is getting a pre-out of the D2 with ARC applied, prior to the volume control stage.

thestewman - "Reason or purpose ?"

The reason is that I have a nice high-end tubed preamp that I would like to use as my line-stage. I want the ARC from the D2 though, which is why I'm trying to figure out how to get the ARC'd audio out of a pre-out.

Thanks!

Kind regards,
Todd @ AudioFlea


----------



## stanger89

goatwuss said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Thanks for the responses regarding using the D2 in processor only mode.
> 
> stanger89 - "Set the D2 volume to 0dB?"
> 
> Wouldn't the volume control still be in the circuit even if it's set to 0db? What I'm trying to accomplish is getting a pre-out of the D2 with ARC applied, prior to the volume control stage.


I don't believe there's any way to do that. And it would still be in the path but at 0dB it should not be attenuating anything.



> thestewman - "Reason or purpose ?"
> 
> The reason is that I have a nice high-end tubed preamp that I would like to use as my line-stage. I want the ARC from the D2 though, which is why I'm trying to figure out how to get the ARC'd audio out of a pre-out.


If your goal is to "warm up" the sound with the Tube preamp, I'd do the reverse and just set the tube preamp to a fixed level and control volume with the D2.


----------



## goatwuss

Stanger - Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it.

Unrelated question - For optimizing a single listening location in the sweet spot, for 2.1 channels, how many mic measurement locations are recommended, and at what placement locations?

Thanks,

Todd @ AudioFlea
audioflea.com


----------



## thestewman

goatwuss said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> thestewman - "Reason or purpose ?"
> 
> The reason is that I have a nice high-end tubed preamp that I would like to use as my line-stage. I want the ARC from the D2 though, which is why I'm trying to figure out how to get the ARC'd audio out of a pre-out.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Kind regards,
> Todd @ AudioFlea


Some quick thoughts
I assume the tubed preamp is only 2 channel. If so you do not want or need ARC for 2 channel.
Anthem stated some time ago some technical specs on their analog curcuits and the volume control.
They were impresssive No digital devices at all in Analog Direct. This might not be the sound you seek though.
Here is a suggestion  A Poor Man's Home Theater Bypass


----------



## madhuski

Can anyone opine on how The Statement D2 (not the D2V) would compare to the 510/710? I sold my 710 (foolishly) and am just not quite as happy with my 4520 so I was going to re-enter the Anthem world. A used d2 seems to be about the same as a 710 demo. Specifically, how do they compare in 

- ARC
- ability to decode formats
- overall sound quality for movies

thanks-



***I started to read/search through the thread to see if I could find what I needed but with 1400 pages soon gave up.....


----------



## drhankz

madhuski said:


> Can anyone opine on how The Statement D2 (not the D2V) would compare to the 510/710? I sold my 710 (foolishly) and am just not quite as happy with my 4520 so I was going to re-enter the Anthem world. A used d2 seems to be about the same as a 710 demo. Specifically, how do they compare in
> 
> - ARC
> - ability to decode formats
> - overall sound quality for movies
> 
> thanks-
> 
> 
> 
> ***I started to read/search through the thread to see if I could find what I needed but with 1400 pages soon gave up.....


As a D2 Owner - I am still very happy with all the capabilities 
of the D2. Does it Decode newer audio formats - NO. You let
your DVD player decode it to LPCM and the D2 handles that
so you still have a Lossless audio playback. 

It does not support 3D. Here to you let your DVD with dual HDMI
ports handle the 3D problem sending audio to D2 and 3D video
to the TV or Projector. 

ARC is ARC - however the D2 can have more correction points
than the 710.

As for your pricing comparison - just remember the D2 has 
NO AMPLIFIERS - That could drastically change your price
comparison unless you already have amps because you 
were using the 710 as a Pre/Pro.


----------



## stanger89

madhuski said:


> Can anyone opine on how The Statement D2 (not the D2V) would compare to the 510/710? I sold my 710 (foolishly) and am just not quite as happy with my 4520 so I was going to re-enter the Anthem world. A used d2 seems to be about the same as a 710 demo. Specifically, how do they compare in
> 
> - ARC
> - ability to decode formats
> - overall sound quality for movies
> 
> thanks-
> 
> 
> 
> ***I started to read/search through the thread to see if I could find what I needed but with 1400 pages soon gave up.....


FWIW, at this point, if you were happy with the 710, I'd be looking at the upcoming AVM60 or MRX 1120, those will get you Atmos, HDMI 2.0 and you'll be ready for the next decade of A/V updates. But then again I'm not one of the golden-ear types who has the interest or ability to hear out the sonic differences between an AVM50 and a D2 anyway.


----------



## MitchPope

madhuski said:


> Can anyone opine on how The Statement D2 (not the D2V) would compare to the 510/710? I sold my 710 (foolishly) and am just not quite as happy with my 4520 so I was going to re-enter the Anthem world. A used d2 seems to be about the same as a 710 demo. Specifically, how do they compare in
> 
> - ARC
> - ability to decode formats
> - overall sound quality for movies


I did the same thing you are contemplating and went from a 510 to a D2. I am still trying to decide whether to go to a AVM 60 to get 7.1 input/decoding when it comes out; although my Blu-ray watching has taken a bit of a dive over the last year. Most of the stuff I watch now is either Netflix or AppleTV, so it decodes the 5.1 Dolby tracks just fine. I mostly listen to music from the AppleTV; the 510 sounded great, but there is something in the D2 sound that just puts it over the top.

I agree with drhankz on the other points.


----------



## madhuski

Thanks guys. A couple of follow ups, in no particular order

- I didn't run an amp with my 710, but do have a outlaw m5000 and emotiva upa500, so could do amps if needed.
- is there an audio difference between the AVM 50 and the d2? My understanding is the d2 has a much better video processing
- so both can't do 7.1? I though they had pre-outs for 7.1?


----------



## drhankz

madhuski said:


> Thanks guys. A couple of follow ups, in no particular order
> 
> - I didn't run an amp with my 710, but do have a outlaw m5000 and upa500, so could do amps if needed.
> - is there an audio difference between the AVM 50 and the d2? My understanding is the d2 has a much better video processing
> - so both can't do 7.1? I though they had pre-outs for 7.1?


You can generate great 7.1 output on 5.1 input 
which is the HDMI chip limitation on D2 & AVM 50


----------



## AVfile

madhuski said:


> Thanks guys. A couple of follow ups, in no particular order
> 
> - I didn't run an amp with my 710, but do have a outlaw m5000 and upa500, so could do amps if needed.
> - is there an audio difference between the AVM 50 and the d2? My understanding is the d2 has a much better video processing
> - so both can't do 7.1? I though they had pre-outs for 7.1?



D2 has better audio and ARC (ARC was optional on AVM-50).
Same video processor on both. 
5.1 in, 7.1 out as per drhankz. 

Also search this thread for "comparison chart".


----------



## shah993

*No video*

I have a DV2 3D and am not getting any video.Do get sound.It is connected to the projector so I changed the HDMI cable and connected it to a TV but still no picture.Anything I can do or will it need to be sent for repairs back to anthem?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

shah993 said:


> I have a DV2 3D and am not getting any video.Do get sound.It is connected to the projector so I changed the HDMI cable and connected it to a TV but still no picture.Anything I can do or will it need to be sent for repairs back to anthem?


Check for video using the built-in video graphics of the D2v itself: Setup menu, and Video Source Adjust menu. These are independent of whatever might be going on with your source devices. (If video works from these then your problem is on the source device side of the D2v.)

If no video from the built-in video graphics, first double check your HDMI cabling, particularly if it is new. HDMI is only a friction fit and it just takes a small shift of plug in socket to screw things up. Check BOTH ENDS of the cable as cable weight or other stress on the cable may have cause a shift.

Next, view Setup using the Front Panel display. The Setup menu pictures in the User Manual will help you keep from getting lost.

Go to Save & Restore settings and Save User Settings. Note that you will have to change No to Yes when asked to confirm that you want to do this. Once you've saved your current settings, Reload Factory Defaults.

When that completes, exit Setup and power off the D2v. Then turn also turn it off mechanically for a few seconds using the back panel power switch.

Power up and see if you now have video. If not, try the secondary HDMI output from the D2v. Also go back into Setup and try changing the video output resolution to 480p/60 (not 480i -- 480p is the "simplest" HDMI signal). If still no luck, odds are you will need hardware service.

If you get video back in any of this, then it may be possible you can recover without hardware service. It could be your video settings simply got changed by mistake. Or it could be that you need to reseat the upper HDMI "daughter board" that drives that upper HDMI output.

If video work from the built-in graphics, but not from your source devices, then you need to check cabling and output settings of your source devices.
--Bob


----------



## shah993

Bob Pariseau said:


> Check for video using the built-in video graphics of the D2v itself: Setup menu, and Video Source Adjust menu. These are independent of whatever might be going on with your source devices. (If video works from these then your problem is on the source device side of the D2v.)
> 
> If no video from the built-in video graphics, first double check your HDMI cabling, particularly if it is new. HDMI is only a friction fit and it just takes a small shift of plug in socket to screw things up. Check BOTH ENDS of the cable as cable weight or other stress on the cable may have cause a shift.
> 
> Next, view Setup using the Front Panel display. The Setup menu pictures in the User Manual will help you keep from getting lost.
> 
> Go to Save & Restore settings and Save User Settings. Note that you will have to change No to Yes when asked to confirm that you want to do this. Once you've saved your current settings, Reload Factory Defaults.
> 
> When that completes, exit Setup and power off the D2v. Then turn also turn it off mechanically for a few seconds using the back panel power switch.
> 
> Power up and see if you now have video. If not, try the secondary HDMI output from the D2v. Also go back into Setup and try changing the video output resolution to 480p/60 (not 480i -- 480p is the "simplest" HDMI signal). If still no luck, odds are you will need hardware service.
> 
> If you get video back in any of this, then it may be possible you can recover without hardware service. It could be your video settings simply got changed by mistake. Or it could be that you need to reseat the upper HDMI "daughter board" that drives that upper HDMI output.
> 
> If video work from the built-in graphics, but not from your source devices, then you need to check cabling and output settings of your source devices.
> --Bob


Thank you Bob!


----------



## shah993

shah993 said:


> Thank you Bob!


Hi! Bob,
It turns out that it was my HD base set up.I was messing around to figure out what was going on and it seems HDMI out one is not working but HDMI out 2 is.I might have switched to #2 while I was doing the trouble shooting. I have now got it to work with DVDO air 3 wirless HDMI transmitter.I rewired the HDbase and also got another HD base transmitter/ receiver combo but to no avail.For the life of me I do not know why this is happening all of a sudden when nothing was changed.I guess I will have to check the HD base forum.


----------



## madhuski

Well, I pulled the trigger on a D2v (not 3D). I'll see how this compares to how I remember the 710 sounding.


----------



## madhuski

Well - my run with seperates is brief. I think I'm a receiver guy. 

If anyone is interested, I'm selling the d2v. Going to try to find a 710.


----------



## stanger89

Why? I'm curious.


----------



## AVfile

madhuski said:


> Going to try to find a 710.



Get a 720 at least!


----------



## madhuski

Stanger: well, it is a fantastic processor, but with my families use - mainly TV, with one blu ray a month - I can't in good consience justify the premium over a MRX at this point. When my kids are older, and/or I get a dedicated theater room, the statement series is going to be on my very short list. I have to hooked up as my sale is listed, and I go back and forth with my denon 4520, and the more I do it, the more I appreciate the statement.

Avfile: I thought about it, but with no plans to do Atmos anytime in the future, I think the 720 would be a waste on me.


----------



## lotron

Hello to all
I´m using a D2 for some Years now , it still works almost flawless. Almost because; i can´t see the Setup-Menu on the TV-Screen. 
I think i used the Setup Menu about a Year ago, everything was ok then. Nothing was changed ever since . 
The normal OSD and Video-Setup are displayed on the Screen. The TV ( Sony) is conected by HDMI. Of course i can watch a Movie via the D2`s HDMI- Inputs, no Problems at all. 
I unplugged the mains for 30 minutes, it is still the same.
btw. The little blue Display at the D2 is working fine, it shows the Setup-Menue and i can use it, but is very confusing tu use. 
Have anyone a clue, what to do  I mean, what settings must i check. I hope that i can prevent a Factory-Reset or to reinstall the D2´s Software , if it is just a worng setting .
Thomas


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The Setup Menu is an internally generated S-Video source. The usual step if you lose the Setup Menu, even after a power cycle, is to Save settings, Reload Factory Defaults, re-install the firmware, and then reload the Saved settings.

If that doesn't fix it, then your unit likely needs hardware service. If you have another source you can temporarily hook up via S-Video input, that would give you another check on whether the internal circuit for handling S-Video input to HDMI output is working or not.

There are no settings that screw up display of the Setup Menu, but it wouldn't hurt to try bringing up Setup Menu after you do the Reload Factory Defaults above. I.e., before getting to the firmware re-install.
--Bob


----------



## MitchPope

lotron said:


> Hello to all
> I´m using a D2 for some Years now , it still works almost flawless. Almost because; i can´t see the Setup-Menu on the TV-Screen.
> I think i used the Setup Menu about a Year ago, everything was ok then. Nothing was changed ever since .
> The normal OSD and Video-Setup are displayed on the Screen. The TV ( Sony) is conected by HDMI. Of course i can watch a Movie via the D2`s HDMI- Inputs, no Problems at all.
> I unplugged the mains for 30 minutes, it is still the same.
> btw. The little blue Display at the D2 is working fine, it shows the Setup-Menue and i can use it, but is very confusing tu use.
> Have anyone a clue, what to do  I mean, what settings must i check. I hope that i can prevent a Factory-Reset or to reinstall the D2´s Software , if it is just a worng setting .
> Thomas


Had the same thing happen; as Bob suggests, firmware re-install fixed it for me.


----------



## Stevetd

MitchPope said:


> Had the same thing happen; as Bob suggests, firmware re-install fixed it for me.



Same here. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lotron

Many thanks to all of you for helping me!
I will try to fix it, as Bob suggests, and hope it is not a Problem caused by a Hardware defect. 
Thomas


----------



## madhuski

Does anyone use a URC remote with an RF base station 2ith a D2v? I'm curious if I can do a direct "IR in" somehow, or if I need to put an emitter over the IR sensor (which is a pretty powerful ir sensor, if I do say so myself)


----------



## facke02

madhuski said:


> Does anyone use a URC remote with an RF base station 2ith a D2v? I'm curious if I can do a direct "IR in" somehow, or if I need to put an emitter over the IR sensor (which is a pretty powerful ir sensor, if I do say so myself)


I use a URC remote and be with my D2v. I use the IR IN on the back of the D2v. I believe it's a green block on the back. I jut cut the end off a IR lead and wired it in.


----------



## Kensmith48

I have a MX- 980 URC remote that I use with a base station. It comes with leads with an emitter that's attached to the IR sensor on the front of the D2v. In the program mode for the remote you can choose RF, IR, or both to transmit the signal. RF is the way to go if you're out of the line of sight for IR.


----------



## madhuski

thanks guy's - I had the flasher over the IR receiver bulb in the front, but it was a direct "ir in" jack I was curious about. @facke02 thanks: I wasn't sure if it was kosher to strip the wires and put them into the green block, but will give it a try.
@Kensmith48: RF is also the way to go if you want to make your macro's bullettproof so wife & kids wont get rageful that they cant figure out how to watch TV or play Wii!


----------



## MrKegFlex

I've been slowly phasing to OS X platform computers, is it possible to run the ARC software on this OS? Lot of hits on a search and it seems like the answer is no but wanted to confirm if that was true or not. Last thing requiring me to keep an old laptop w/windows running is the ARC software.


----------



## drhankz

MrKegFlex said:


> I've been slowly phasing to OS X platform computers, is it possible to run the ARC software on this OS? Lot of hits on a search and it seems like the answer is no but wanted to confirm if that was true or not. Last thing requiring me to keep an old laptop w/windows running is the ARC software.


*CORRECT Windows Only* of course you can run Windows on
a MAC OS system. 

AGAIN - *NO NATIVE MAC OS SUPPORT*.


----------



## Kensmith48

I've been trying to program D2v codes into my URC MX-980 remote. I've been using the Learn function. The volume up & down + the directional buttons around the select button all move 2 -4 steps when I push the buttons on the remote after programming. I've tried just tapping the button when programming but it still jumps 2 steps. I'm also trying to figure out buttons that have a double function. Any ideas?


Ken


----------



## stanger89

It should all be in the URC database, I didn't have to learn anything for my AVM50V/MX880.


----------



## Kensmith48

I got the codes from the database but they don't work as they should. That's why I'm trying to get them in the Learn mode.


----------



## stanger89

Weird, I've had no problems with mine. Have you tried a different device, maybe the AVM50 codes instead? I think they're all the same, but maybe one set in the database is messed up.


----------



## Kensmith48

Thoght I'd check the database again. The only recent codes are for an AVM30 or a D1. They also list sets of codes such as Anthem 1,2, 3, etc. I thk I'll see if I can get any updates from URC.
As I guessed URC website doesn't have anything. I went to the CCP pressed the update and it says updates available and will download but it does nothing.


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## stanger89

I wonder if you've got an older version, I'm pretty sure the 50V and D2V are in there now.


----------



## Kensmith48

My MX-980 is approx. 3yrs. old. Same with the CCP. Any ideas on how to update?


----------



## madhuski

CCP should have an auto-update feature. Give your dealer a call and they should be able to give you the live updating version


----------



## Kensmith48

That's the problem. Local dealer is long gone, and the nearest dealer to me is 100 miles away.


----------



## AVfile

Kensmith48 said:


> Thoght I'd check the database again. The only recent codes are for an AVM30 or a D1. They also list sets of codes such as Anthem 1,2, 3, etc.



I also found similar poor support in the database (MX-1200 here). I picked one as a starting point but ended up re-learning almost all the buttons. So far I've only noticed the menu up/down jumping two rows and don't know how to fix it, sorry.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Kensmith48 said:


> I've been trying to program D2v codes into my URC MX-980 remote. I've been using the Learn function. The volume up & down + the directional buttons around the select button all move 2 -4 steps when I push the buttons on the remote after programming. I've tried just tapping the button when programming but it still jumps 2 steps. I'm also trying to figure out buttons that have a double function. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Ken


What's likely happening is that the URC is sending the Volume Up or Down code more than once. A Repeat Count like this is common as some devices won't accept a code as "real", and intended for them, unless they see it more than once. From your description it sounds like the URC is sending the Volume Up or Down code twice. If the timing is slow enough, the Anthem sees it as two well spaced presses and raises or lowers the volume 2 steps. But if the timing is close enough together, and it sounds like you are on the edge of that, the Anthem sees it as the user pressing AND HOLDING the Volume Up or Down button, which, on the normal remote, sends the code repeatedly. And the Anthem implements that as increasing the speed of Volume Up or Down. Try it with the real remote and you'll see what I mean. You can get the same effect with the real remote by pressing Volume Up or Down multiple times quickly.

Most programmable remotes let you set the Repeat Count for a device. In the case of the Anthem, you want a zero Repeat Count, which means each press of the button on the URC will only send the code once -- no repeats.

The Arrow and Select buttons don't increase speed for multiple presses spaced closely together, but they will do one step for each time the code is sent.

-------------------------------------

The Anthem remote is quite a complicated beastie for a programmable remote to handle. Take Press and Hold of a button for example. There are 3 possibilities for what the Anthem remote will send if you Press and Hold any given button: (1) Send the button's code just once no matter how long you Hold; (2) Send the button's code multiple times continuously until you release the button; and (3) Send a special "Long Press" code for the button, just once. So for example, Press and Hold of the "7" key for long enough sends a Long Press "7" which is how the Anthem determines you are really trying to access the Video Source Adjust menu. Some parts of the UI will react differently for a given button depending upon whether you press it just once, briefly, or press it multiple times, closely spaced, or press and hold it down long enough.

As you can imagine, using a programmable remote set to implement a Repeat Count for a single button press plays havoc with this.
--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks for all the info Bob.


I was trying to do this with a MS Surface Pro 3 w/ Windows 10 and for some reason it wouldn't update. Then I remembered I also have the CCP program on my Desktop w/ Windows 10. Don't know why but the update went with the desktop. To make a long story short-- the MX-980 is updated and everything works as planned.


Ken


----------



## dreamhomecinema

Sir Iam from india Iam using anthem d2v3 processor with latest software arc 3:02 for calibration and v3.10 for 3 model which is running good and successfully with Pardigm sub2 and sub25 successfully just now i bring genlec72 71a subwoofer which input is digital input our anthem processor giving signal output are analg only can help me any posiblety in anthem LF out in digital thankfull if any information


----------



## thestewman

dreamhomecinema said:


> Sir Iam from india Iam using anthem d2v3 processor with latest software arc 3:02 for calibration and v3.10 for 3 model which is running good and successfully with Pardigm sub2 and sub25 successfully just now i bring genlec72 71a subwoofer which input is digital input our anthem processor giving signal output are analg only can help me any posiblety in anthem LF out in digital thankfull if any information


The Genelec 7271A is a Pro monitor and needs 24 bit/192
kHz AES/EBU digital audio signal.
The Anthem D2v3 does not supply 24 bit/192
kHz AES/EBU digital.


----------



## dreamhomecinema

thestewman said:


> The Genelec 7271A is a Pro monitor and needs 24 bit/192
> kHz AES/EBU digital audio signal.
> The Anthem D2v3 does not supply 24 bit/192
> kHz AES/EBU digital.


Thank u for reply me I seen in Genelec site they telling we can use Genelec 9200 analog to digital converter which is working with Tason DB 25 to xlr please check and tell it is it tru thank u


----------



## dreamhomecinema

thestewman said:


> The Genelec 7271A is a Pro monitor and needs 24 bit/192
> kHz AES/EBU digital audio signal.
> The Anthem D2v3 does not supply 24 bit/192
> kHz AES/EBU digital.


Thank u for reply me I seen in Genelec site they telling we can use Genelec 9200 analog to digital converter which is working with Tason DB 25 to xlr please check and tell it is it tru thank u and cable also AES/EBU digital xlr


----------



## thestewman

dreamhomecinema said:


> Thank u for reply me I seen in Genelec site they telling we can use Genelec 9200 analog to digital converter which is working with Tason DB 25 to xlr please check and tell it is it tru thank u and cable also AES/EBU digital xlr


It looks like it will work with a DB25 to xlr wire harness (snake) between the digital converter and the D2v3.
My question is Why ?
The Genelec is not cheap plus you have to add $1000 US for the converter and the unit is a studio monitor not a home theater unit.
You already have 2 excellent subwoofers in the Paradigm Sub 25 and the Sub 2


----------



## dreamhomecinema

thestewman said:


> It looks like it will work with a DB25 to xlr wire harness (snake) between the digital converter and the D2v3.
> My question is Why ?
> The Genelec is not cheap plus you have to add $1000 US for the converter and the unit is a studio monitor not a home theater unit.
> You already have 2 excellent subwoofers in the Paradigm Sub 25 and the Sub 2


Thank u again for quick response more ,by mistake I import Genelec 7271 a from France expent lot of money for import duty with 22 days strain from custom duty office when it's comes in hand it's not running my mood is total upsate actually my home theater having 50 hz null that 's I purchased this item by mistakhttp://www.amazon.com/Behringer-SRC2496-BEHRINGER-ULTRAMATCH-PRO/dp/B0002E50J0. Pls see bhringer and give me this can work or not


----------



## Ellebob

I am not sure if the Behringer will work for you. I am having a little trouble with your English, I am guessing it's not your native language. By your description I am not sure of the exact problem but here are some solutions.


If you have a dip in the frequency response at 50hz this will not fix it. You can't boost a dip if it is caused by a null which is most likely at this frequency. The fix would be to move the sub and/or the seating position.


If it is a 50hz hum because you are using electricity that is 50hz, then you most likely have a ground loop problem and the Behringer won't work. You need to either correct the grounding problem. This can either be have all the equipment on the same circuit or phase. It can be caused because your low voltage connections (cable, satellite, phone, etc.) coming into the building are not grounded at the same place as the electrical. If the grounding is very difficult to change then you can use a ground loop isolator like this.
http://www.jensen-transformers.com/pro-audio/isolators/
http://www.jensen-transformers.com/home-theater/isolators/
If caused by the cable line you could use this model.
http://www.jensen-transformers.com/product/vrd-1ff/


If it is 50hz feedback loop, like the noise you get when a microphone is too close to a speaker then the Behringer will work.


----------



## thestewman

dreamhomecinema said:


> Thank u again for quick response more ,by mistake I import Genelec 7271 a from France expent lot of money for import duty with 22 days strain from custom duty office when it's comes in hand it's not running my mood is total upsate actually my home theater having 50 hz null that 's I purchased this item by mistakhttp://www.amazon.com/Behringer-SRC2496-BEHRINGER-ULTRAMATCH-PRO/dp/B0002E50J0. Pls see bhringer and give me this can work or not


My suggestion is to go back and start correcting the Sub 2 and Sub 25.
If what you are describing is a dip at 50hz seen on a graph you should be able to correct it easily.
Start with one sub in the front and one in the rear.
Then use the DV2v3 ARC Quick Adjust and graphs in the software to find the best location.
Then run the Sub PBK software.
Then finally Rerun ARC
If not completely satisfied you can use REW software and a precision microphone and adjust the frequency reponse even further,
Any further questions I would suggest posting the PBK and ARC charts so the forum could help you


----------



## dreamhomecinema

thestewman said:


> My suggestion is to go back and start correcting the Sub 2 and Sub 25.
> If what you are describing is a dip at 50hz seen on a graph you should be able to correct it easily.
> Start with one sub in the front and one in the rear.
> Then use the DV2v3 ARC Quick Adjust and graphs in the software to find the best location.
> Then run the Sub PBK software.
> Then finally Rerun ARC
> If not completely satisfied you can use REW software and a precision microphone and adjust the frequency reponse even further,
> Any further questions I would suggest posting the PBK and ARC charts so the forum could help you


As your advice I was already try one sub front and another sub behind my left seating position which is showing good peak at 50 hz single sub but when I go to combine arc calibration there are may be phase problem is present front 0 phase and behind another is 180 phase is good response but it will volume level be going more 3.5 db for 80 db level


----------



## thestewman

dreamhomecinema said:


> As your advice I was already try one sub front and another sub behind my left seating position which is showing good peak at 50 hz single sub but when I go to combine arc calibration there are may be phase problem is present front 0 phase and behind another is 180 phase is good response but it will volume level be going more 3.5 db for 80 db level


I am having a bit of a problem understanding what you are saying about the 0 phase and the 180 phase. And what is it you are trying to say about the volume level ?

Can you double check your D2v3 setup ? 
You should have 1 sub selected when using ARC not 2
Are you sure the 2 subs are properly phased ? Very important.
There is a procedure in one of the forum user's posts.


----------



## Kensmith48

I have a D2v w/3D upgrade passthru. It's a 7.2 sound system with the surrounds set on top of platforms set at ear level in a dedicated theater. I've calibrated with ARC using the quick measure and then manually calibrated. The D2v panel says 7.1 is playing but the rear speakers don't seem to put out as much as the side surrounds. If I get 2-3 ft. from the rears they're barely audible. Sometimes I think if I stand in the center of the theater and set each speaker to 75db it might sound better.
Any ideas on how to fix this so the rears come thru better?


----------



## dreamhomecinema

thestewman said:


> I am having a bit of a problem understanding what you are saying about the 0 phase and the 180 phase. And what is it you are trying to say about the volume level ?
> 
> Can you double check your D2v3 setup ?
> You should have 1 sub selected when using ARC not 2
> Are you sure the 2 subs are properly phased ? Very important.
> There is a procedure in one of the forum user's posts.


I understand Iam running and selecting 1 sub when running ARC and ofter run also thank u I want send my graphs of ARC but how can upload here


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Kensmith48 said:


> I have a D2v w/3D upgrade passthru. It's a 7.2 sound system with the surrounds set on top of platforms set at ear level in a dedicated theater. I've calibrated with ARC using the quick measure and then manually calibrated. The D2v panel says 7.1 is playing but the rear speakers don't seem to put out as much as the side surrounds. If I get 2-3 ft. from the rears they're barely audible. Sometimes I think if I stand in the center of the theater and set each speaker to 75db it might sound better.
> Any ideas on how to fix this so the rears come thru better?


For most tracks the Rear speakers are SUPPOSED to be subtle even when playing 7.1 tracks. This is why reviewers tend to remark on tracks that have very aggressive activity in the Surrounds. Aggressive placement in the Surrounds being considered something of a gimmick.

Also keep in mind that many 7.1 movie tracks out there on disc are actually derived from 5.1 theatrical tracks.

If you want to check to make sure nothing is wrong, play a CD (or other Stereo content) and select the Mode ALL SPEAKERS STEREO (which is really only useful for, say, parties), and see if the Rear speakers are putting out comparable volume levels.

Of course the other thing you can do is check with a calibration disc. I suggest you use the LPCM 7.1 Channel ID track from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, along with your SPL meter (held at Center seating, at seated ear height, pointed straight up towards the ceiling, and set to "Slow" response and "C" weighting).

If you DO find a problem, double check that you don't have any of the "Temporary" speaker volume trims set -- the ones you access using the buttons on the Remote. Those settings are remembered across Sources -- keyed to the type of audio format that is playing. To clear ALL the Temporary settings in one fell swoop go into Setup and:

1) Save User Settings
2) Restore Factory Defaults (if you lose video at this point, continue using the Front Panel display)
3) Reload Saved User Settings

The Temporary settings are not saved, so this resets them all.

The other way you can screw up the ARC solution is by fiddling with the speaker settings in Setup after you Upload ARC. The simplest way to fix that is to re-Upload your current ARC solution. Then Save User Settings so you can get the settings recovered easily, just in case...
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

dreamhomecinema said:


> I understand Iam running and selecting 1 sub when running ARC and ofter run also thank u I want send my graphs of ARC but how can upload here


Use the area Marked Drag Files Here to Attach or use the Manage Attachment button

Have you checked the 2 subs for proper phasing ?


----------



## dreamhomecinema

This graph of two sub woofers combind pls check this graph. Mr thestewman. Thank u


----------



## RIppolito

*AVM-50 remote died - where can I get another?*

My original remote for my AVM-50 seems to have died - no response, as though the IR transmitter is dead.

Does anyone have a remote that you'd consider parting with? Does Anthem repair them, or sell replacements?

Thank you in advance...
Ron


----------



## stanger89

Sounds like it's time for a good universal remote


----------



## Kensmith48

*D2v*



Bob Pariseau said:


> For most tracks the Rear speakers are SUPPOSED to be subtle even when playing 7.1 tracks. This is why reviewers tend to remark on tracks that have very aggressive activity in the Surrounds. Aggressive placement in the Surrounds being considered something of a gimmick.
> 
> Also keep in mind that many 7.1 movie tracks out there on disc are actually derived from 5.1 theatrical tracks.
> 
> If you want to check to make sure nothing is wrong, play a CD (or other Stereo content) and select the Mode ALL SPEAKERS STEREO (which is really only useful for, say, parties), and see if the Rear speakers are putting out comparable volume levels.
> 
> Of course the other thing you can do is check with a calibration disc. I suggest you use the LPCM 7.1 Channel ID track from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, along with your SPL meter (held at Center seating, at seated ear height, pointed straight up towards the ceiling, and set to "Slow" response and "C" weighting).
> 
> If you DO find a problem, double check that you don't have any of the "Temporary" speaker volume trims set -- the ones you access using the buttons on the Remote. Those settings are remembered across Sources -- keyed to the type of audio format that is playing.  To clear ALL the Temporary settings in one fell swoop go into Setup and:
> 
> 1) Save User Settings
> 2) Restore Factory Defaults (if you lose video at this point, continue using the Front Panel display)
> 3) Reload Saved User Settings
> 
> The Temporary settings are not saved, so this resets them all.
> 
> The other way you can screw up the ARC solution is by fiddling with the speaker settings in Setup after you Upload ARC. The simplest way to fix that is to re-Upload your current ARC solution. Then Save User Settings so you can get the settings recovered easily, just in case...
> --Bob


 Thanks, Bob
Everything seems to check out. Seems like a waste to have rear speakers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Anthem or an Anthem dealer can undoubtedly sell you a replacement remote.

Original D2 owners got two identical remotes that will work just fine with the original AVM 50, so you might find someone wanting to sell their spare on eBay or the like.
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Kensmith48 said:


> Thanks, Bob
> Everything seems to check out. Seems like a waste to have rear speakers.


Well you'll find some 7.1 tracks out there which ARE quite aggressive in the Rear channels -- typically action movies. So don't give up hope.

And the trend is in favor of newer tracks putting more in the Rears. But most of the time the Rears will still be used for non-directional "ambience" fill. Still, once you get used to how they are REALLY used, you'd probably miss them if they were shut off.
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

dreamhomecinema said:


> This graph of two sub woofers combind pls check this graph. Mr thestewman. Thank u


According to the graph the sub (s) are capable of giving the type of output one looks for in a home theater.
But, I see what i believe is your problem and it can be corrected with some work.
First looking at the uncorrected curve you need to take advantage of ARC ability to give you real time graphs of the subs.Use ARC Quick Measure and find the best location to eliminate those peaks and dips in your uncorrected response curve. It will allow ARC to use its processing power in other areas.
I wonder if you followed the PBK and ARC setup instructions completely.
Your sub crossover is way to low an you are missing sub output in the more audible areas between 150 to 180 HZ.
Did you correctly set up the phase of the 2 subs ? I am not referring to the correct polarity but the phase interaction between 2 subs.
Someone has posted the procedure in a link on the bottom of their posts but I forgot who posted it.
Next time if you can, use the snipping tool to take snapshots of you graphs directly from your computer screen. Then post those as JPGs.
It would be great if you posted all the charts and the settings.


Anyone who has additional please step in as I am no expert


----------



## dreamhomecinema

thestewman said:


> According to the graph the sub (s) are capable of giving the type of output one looks for in a home theater.
> But, I see what i believe is your problem and it can be corrected with some work.
> First looking at the uncorrected curve you need to take advantage of ARC ability to give you real time graphs of the subs.Use ARC Quick Measure and find the best location to eliminate those peaks and dips in your uncorrected response curve. It will allow ARC to use its processing power in other areas.
> I wonder if you followed the PBK and ARC setup instructions completely.
> Your sub crossover is way to low an you are missing sub output in the more audible areas between 150 to 180 HZ.
> Did you correctly set up the phase of the 2 subs ? I am not referring to the correct polarity but the phase interaction between 2 subs.
> Someone has posted the procedure in a link on the bottom of their posts but I forgot who posted it.
> Next time if you can, use the snipping tool to take snapshots of you graphs directly from your computer screen. Then post those as JPGs.
> It would be great if you posted all the charts and the settings.
> 
> 
> Anyone who has additional please step in as I am no expert


Thank u again for advice as u say that is corect my two subs are going up to 150 hz but 80 hz crosvor is best I think and when I leaving up to 150 hz crosvor some movies sound like muddy and boomy


----------



## thestewman

dreamhomecinema said:


> Thank u again for advice as u say that is corect my two subs are going up to 150 hz but 80 hz crosvor is best I think and when I leaving up to 150 hz crosvor some movies sound like muddy and boomy


If that is what you hear I do not disagree.
I still maintain you may have skipped some steps in the physical setup so to overcome that you moved the crossover down to where it is not audible.
Muddy and Boomy are those ill effects. 
It is your system and if you are happy with what you hear that is what matters.

I would suggest you post all your ARC charts and the ARC Settings


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dreamhomecinema said:


> Thank u again for advice as u say that is corect my two subs are going up to 150 hz but 80 hz crosvor is best I think and when I leaving up to 150 hz crosvor some movies sound like muddy and boomy


Be advised that you can't change the Crossover settings which have been Uploaded by ARC without breaking the ARC solution. If you want to make a change, you need to do it using the Targets Window in ARC, then re-Calculate and re-Upload. ARC's Room Correction parameters are calculated based on the Levels and Crossover frequencies it Uploads.

Also, since you have two Subs, there are a few extra steps you need to take to get things working correctly with ARC. First, in Speaker Configuration, specify that you have 1 Sub even though you actually have 2. The values that ARC Uploads are calculated assuming that 1 Sub will be set.

Next, get the two Subs roughly in balance with each other for volume before you Measure for ARC. The rule of thumb with 2 Subs is to adjust each to produced 72dB SPL -- power only one Sub at a time while setting this using the volume knob on each Sub. When combined, they will produce roughly 75dB SPL, but more importantly they will contribute equally to the Sub signal that ARC hears. ARC will take it from there -- correcting their combined output level as part of the ARC solution.

Next, since ARC will hear both of your Subs playing at the same time, you need to get your Sub Phase correct for the two Subs before you do the ARC Measurement to make sure the signal from each Sub is not interfering with the signal from the other Sub. Since Sub Phase is a function of speaker distance, that also means you have to have Listener Position distances set correctly prior to ARC Measurement. The usual approach to adjusting Sub Phase with 2 Subs, is to turn off one Sub, adjust Phase for the other Sub so that it matches Left Front and then repeat with just the other Sub powered. Once both Subs are in proper phase with Left Front, then they are also in proper phase with each other. To do this, you need to use phase controls on each Sub, since the phase control in the Anthem itself alters both Sub outputs at the same time. If your Subs don't have Phase controls, but only a Polarity toggle switch, the Rule of Thumb is to set the Polarity to normal if the Sub is in the front of the room, but to Inverted if the Sub is in the rear of the room.
--Bob


----------



## dreamhomecinema

I want paste my graphs but how can paste pls help


----------



## thestewman

dreamhomecinema said:


> I want paste my graphs but how can paste pls help


What format have you saved the graphs in ?

Below the quote entry area are two different methods.
One you can drag and drop your files to be posted
Valid file extensions: bmp doc gif jpe jpeg jpg pdf png psd txt zip

And below there is a second method

Attach Files
Valid file extensions: bmp doc gif jpe jpeg jpg pdf png psd txt zip
MANAGE ATTACHMENTS


----------



## dreamhomecinema

Front sub 25 and back sub 2 paradigms all speakers crosvor are 60 and subwoofer crosvor 120 hz. Pls give me advices thank u


----------



## studlygoorite

dreamhomecinema said:


> Front sub 25 and back sub 2 paradigms all speakers crosvor are 60 and subwoofer crosvor 120 hz. Pls give me advices thank u


Not Stew or Bob but this graph looks much better than the other, looks like maybe one or both of your subs may be too close to a corner though and your bass might be a bit too boomy but it should still sound very good. I could not match any other subs with my Sub 2 as they were different models but as I said this graph looks good, how does it sound???


----------



## thestewman

dreamhomecinema said:


> Front sub 25 and back sub 2 paradigms all speakers crosvor are 60 and subwoofer crosvor 120 hz. Pls give me advices thank u


Personally looking at your sub chart I am not happy with what I see are your results. And as Studlygoorite stated above its very booomy.
And looking at just the sub chart without all the speaker charts and the Target page we cannot assist you.
I recommend you start over and take this step by step if you are going to get real satisfactory results

First the sub setup
Here is a good review on exactly what to do. The only addition is you have Paradigm subs and should use PBK before running ARC

Posted 19th June 2014 by Poor Audiophile How to Calibrate Dual Subwoofers with Anthem's ARC Room Correction System
If possible move the Sub 2 to the front of the room, the right front corner is usually best. 

Make sure you reset the crossovers in the D2 basic speaker configuration setup. You do not want to be overriding ARC with them during the setup
Now to make sure you are getting the correct settings and integration from ARC post*ALL*the speaker graphs *and the Target page*.
It is easy to do. I think you maybe posting photos of your computer screen

Here are two ways to post the graphs and Targets

With the page you want to post on your display press the Print Screen button. Top right on the keyboard.
Then open the Windows Paint program usually under Accessories in the Start Menu list
Now press Ctrl and V at the same time. Your screen display should be there. Crop as necessary and save it.
Go back and do the same for every graph and the Targets.
Or
Use the Snipping tool that Windows supplies in the same Start Menu, Accessories program list.
Save each screen grab for each set of graphs and then post them using the forum tools for JPGs.

Do each step. Get ready to spend some time doing this but the results are worth it.
Remember this is a system and each piece needs to work with the next piece
I have a properly integrated SUB 2 and it is amazing. The base slam sometimes is scary in a listening room.
And it is not booomy at all. 

Since we are not there to listen to your system with you the information will help the forum give you advice


----------



## RobDec

*software update*

Hi
Is there gonna be a software update for the D2v 3d and AVM50 3D? or has that ship sailed?
Thanks
Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Hi
> Is there gonna be a software update for the D2v 3d and AVM50 3D? or has that ship sailed?
> Thanks
> Rob


Since we are hardware bound by what they have installed what should they update ?


----------



## AVfile

The bugs I reported with the Pass Through video mode.


----------



## Kensmith48

I'd like to see an update for ARC to work with Windows 10.


----------



## thestewman

AVfile said:


> The bugs I reported.


I would not hold my breath waiting for firmware updates
The D2 is getting pretty old and Anthem seems to be ignoring our part of the market except for several new AVRs which are not equipped for the newest media . Maybe we will see something new at CES in Jan.
They currently are way behind the curve. 
No 4K, No HDR, No HDMI 2.0a, No HDCP 2.2.
No video pass thru. No Atmos, DTS:X or even think about Auro-3D
They seem to think hanging their hat on ARC is sufficient.
They are way behind the curve.


----------



## stanger89

thestewman said:


> They currently are way behind the curve.
> No 4K, No HDR, No HDMI 2.0a, No HDCP 2.2.
> No video pass thru. No Atmos, DTS:X or even think about Auro-3D
> They seem to think hanging their hat on ARC is sufficient.
> They are way behind the curve.


Um, AVM60? Should have/support all that, I think DTS:X is a future upgrade when the software becomes available. I haven't read anything about Auro but is there even any Auro 3D content in the pipeline?

The AVM60 is supposed to be out in January.


----------



## Thxtheater

stanger89 said:


> thestewman said:
> 
> 
> 
> They currently are way behind the curve.
> No 4K, No HDR, No HDMI 2.0a, No HDCP 2.2.
> No video pass thru. No Atmos, DTS:X or even think about Auro-3D
> They seem to think hanging their hat on ARC is sufficient.
> They are way behind the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> Um, AVM60? Should have/support all that, I think DTS:X is a future upgrade when the software becomes available. I haven't read anything about Auro but is there even any Auro 3D content in the pipeline?
> 
> The AVM60 is supposed to be out in January.
Click to expand...

Here are all the current details on the AVM60 http://www.audioholics.com/av-receiver-reviews/anthem-mrx-520-720-1120-receivers-and-avm60-processor

Still seems like details are being firmed up but all the checkpoints like Atmos etc are there. Everybody is still waiting for DTS:X and will provide it via firmware in 2016. The DACs in the AVM60 appear to be upgraded.


----------



## AVfile

thestewman said:


> I would not hold my breath waiting for firmware updates



I know. I just mention it now and then to keep the pressure on. I finally gave up fighting the glitches and now avoid using the Passthrough mode. With a bit of smart coding this so-called "3D upgrade" could have been truly complete.


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## thestewman

AVfile said:


> I know. I just mention it now and then to keep the pressure on. I finally gave up fighting the glitches and now avoid using the Passthrough mode. With a bit of smart coding this so-called "3D upgrade" could have been truly complete.


I agree. The Passthrough upgrade was a temporary fix if you could even call it that.
If Anthem were the real "Good Guys" seeing that they are using the same cases they could do a hardware and software upgrade for all current D2v3D owners.
I would go for that if it included everything the AVM60 is supposed to have. Plus audiophile Analog with DSD Double rate, Quad rate and PCM to 32/384.
And a Home Theater bypass to enable direct connection of an outboard DAC to your amplifier inputs


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## dreamhomecinema

Bob Pariseau said:


> Be advised that you can't change the Crossover settings which have been Uploaded by ARC without breaking the ARC solution. If you want to make a change, you need to do it using the Targets Window in ARC, then re-Calculate and re-Upload. ARC's Room Correction parameters are calculated based on the Levels and Crossover frequencies it Uploads.
> 
> Also, since you have two Subs, there are a few extra steps you need to take to get things working correctly with ARC. First, in Speaker Configuration, specify that you have 1 Sub even though you actually have 2. The values that ARC Uploads are calculated assuming that 1 Sub will be set.
> 
> Next, get the two Subs roughly in balance with each other for volume before you Measure for ARC. The rule of thumb with 2 Subs is to adjust each to produced 72dB SPL -- power only one Sub at a time while setting this using the volume knob on each Sub. When combined, they will produce roughly 75dB SPL, but more importantly they will contribute equally to the Sub signal that ARC hears. ARC will take it from there -- correcting their combined output level as part of the ARC solution.
> 
> Next, since ARC will hear both of your Subs playing at the same time, you need to get your Sub Phase correct for the two Subs before you do the ARC Measurement to make sure the signal from each Sub is not interfering with the signal from the other Sub. Since Sub Phase is a function of speaker distance, that also means you have to have Listener Position distances set correctly prior to ARC Measurement. The usual approach to adjusting Sub Phase with 2 Subs, is to turn off one Sub, adjust Phase for the other Sub so that it matches Left Front and then repeat with just the other Sub powered. Once both Subs are in proper phase with Left Front, then they are also in proper phase with each other. To do this, you need to use phase controls on each Sub, since the phase control in the Anthem itself alters both Sub outputs at the same time. If your Subs don't have Phase controls, but only a Polarity toggle switch, the Rule of Thumb is to set the Polarity to normal if the Sub is in the front of the room, but to Inverted if the Sub is in the rear of the room.
> --Bob


 Thank u again as your sugeation u telling each sub will be combnation with front left speaker phase will can adjest but how rhis posible at a time we can only quike measurment havin option only subwoofers or other speakers each how can combind signal we can produce please explain me thank u


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## Bob Pariseau

^ Enter correct speaker distances. If you have more than one Sub, use the average of their distances as your single Sub distance.

Set the Crossover for Left Front to 80Hz.

Power one Sub at a time. Get the Sub and Left Front speaker in rough volume balance. Use a calibration disc or other source (Anthem has been known to suggest using the noise from the FM tuner when set between stations) to send wide frequency range noise to the Left Front speaker. The bass component of that will go to the Sub via the Crossover. Adjust phase on the Sub to get the most bass (least cancellation).

Repeat for the other Subs, using the phase adjustment built into each Sub.
--Bob


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## Whitl

Need a little help, I have a D2 that i am trying to re-install the firmware, version 1.33. The exe says it finds the D2 when i execute the upgrade, i see the light on the serial to usb adapter flash several times then it stays on constant, i can see the blue "main" light on the D2 itself flash, go solid then flash again. It never finishes and locks the pc, can't shut down the software, it says it is still running, do know how long it takes to upload, have left it running for an hour, the only to stop it is hold the power button in on the pc. Have tried it several times with the same results.


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## thestewman

Whitl said:


> Need a little help, I have a D2 that i am trying to re-install the firmware, version 1.33. The exe says it finds the D2 when i execute the upgrade, i see the light on the serial to usb adapter flash several times then it stays on constant, i can see the blue "main" light on the D2 itself flash, go solid then flash again. It never finishes and locks the pc, can't shut down the software, it says it is still running, do know how long it takes to upload, have left it running for an hour, the only to stop it is hold the power button in on the pc. Have tried it several times with the same results.


First it is imperative that you are using a Keyspan USA-19HS serial to USB adapter ? Latest software for the adapter ?
A Windows Machine is also imperative unless you have a Mac running Windows.
You must disconnect all HDMI input cables as some carry voltage even when the source is turned off.
Its been quite a while since I did an update. 
Anyone else think of steps I forgot ?

Here are Bob Pariseau's setup recommendations

Here is the belt & suspenders approach to doing the update:

* Write down all your settings that you can't simpy remember. Be sure to note both your Setup menu settings and your Video Source Adjust settings for each input.

* Turn off your system.

* Turn off the Anthem's back panel power switch.

* Physically disconnect any HDMI source devices and also your HDMI display from wall power unless you are ABSOLUTELY 100% SURE that they don't power their HDMI socket when they are in their Off/Standby mode. Do not skip this step. The software install will fail if there are any live HDMI connections to the Anthem, and quite a few HDMI devices leave their HDMI sockets powered even though the device itself appears to be turned off.

* Hook up a correct serial cable between the back of the Anthem and the Windows computer you intend to use. You want a "straight through" cable (pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9), not the identical looking cable, sometimes called a "null modem" cable, that swaps some wires. It is best to use a computer with a real serial port instead of a USB/serial adapter. If you DO use a USB/Serial adapter, you may need to turn on "Xon/Xoff" flow control to get it to work correctly.

* Turn on the back panel power switch of the Anthem. Leave all other devices off.

* Use the Anthem Setup Editor application to save your Setup menu settings to a PC file. The application will turn the Anthem on itself as necessary. Use the latest version of the Setup Editor that you have -- the one that came with the new software from Anthem if you have it, otherwise at the very least the V1.10 software version. Exit that application.

PLEASE NOTE: Skip the next step if your current software is older than V1.04. Live Video Settings Editor was introduced as part of the V1.04 software, and it doesn't function if your Anthem is currently running software older than that. Just write down your Video Source Adjust settings manually.

* If you have the V1.11g version (or later) of the Live Video Settings Editor application, use it to save your Video Source Adjust menu settings -- for all input sources -- to a file on the PC. If you have an older version you will need to depend upon the settings your wrote down. Exit that application.

* TIME OUT! Think carefully. Have you written down ALL of the Anthem settings you need to write down? OK, then proceed.

* Power on the Anthem. Go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and do a Reload Factory Defaults. This will cause you to lose your video display but you can still see what's going on using the Anthem's front panel display. When the reload finishes, Back out of the Setup menu and power off the Anthem normally. Leave the back panel switch of the Anthem in the ON position.

* Run the software installer application. It will turn the Anthem on and off itself as necessary during the process. Typically the process will take about 15 minutes including the verification passes. *DO NOT INTERRUPT THE INSTALL* Make sure your computer won't go "to sleep" for example, during the install.

* If the install fails with an error, it is safe to try it again. Contact Anthem if you can't get it to install (rare with the current versions).

* Once the install completes normally, turn on the Anthem and, using the front panel display and the pictures of the menus in your user's manual to keep from getting lost, go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and do a Reload Factory Defaults AGAIN. These will, of course, be the defaults for the new software you just installed. Back out of that and turn off the Anthem.

* Using the Anthem Setup Editor application, restore your Setup menu settings to the Anthem from the PC file where you saved them. Exit that application.

* If you have the V1.11g (or later) version of the Live Video Settings Editor application, use it to restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings for all input sources from the PC file where you saved them. Exit that application. Turn off the Anthem.

* Power off the Anthem using the back panel switch. Disconnect the serial cable. Plug your HDMI sources and HDMI display back into wall power.

PLEASE NOTE: If you are upgrading from a software version older than V1.06, be aware that Anthem changed the list of available video output resolutions in V1.06. Your old video output resolution setting will likely not restore automatically. This means you will likely need to go into Setup / Video Output and manually correct your video output resolution to get your display live again.

* Power up your system. You should have a good display. If you don't have a display for any reason, remember that you can examine/correct Setup menu settings using the Anthem's front panel display.

* Go through all of your Setup menu settings and compare them to the values you wrote down. In particular, go to each overlayed device you are *NOT* using (i.e., DVD2 or DVD3 or whatever) and "disable" it in the first line of it's Setup / Source Select menu page.

* For each input (normal or overlayed) you ARE using, start video from that device, select it as the Anthem input, and bring up the Video Source Adjust menu for it and verify any settings you want in there. Double check the Video Source Adjust / Info panel to be sure the input and output signals are reporting what they should be reporting.

-----------------------------------------------------------------

In reality the menu settings will likely survive just fine if you install the new software on top of the old without going through all the steps of saving settings, reloading factory defaults and etc. But the process above is the SAFEST approach.
--Bob


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## Bob Pariseau

Whitl said:


> Need a little help, I have a D2 that i am trying to re-install the firmware, version 1.33. The exe says it finds the D2 when i execute the upgrade, i see the light on the serial to usb adapter flash several times then it stays on constant, i can see the blue "main" light on the D2 itself flash, go solid then flash again. It never finishes and locks the pc, can't shut down the software, it says it is still running, do know how long it takes to upload, have left it running for an hour, the only to stop it is hold the power button in on the pc. Have tried it several times with the same results.


Two easy things that might get you going:

1) You need to Reset Factory Defaults in the D2 before trying to do the firmware install. If you have your Settings saved in User or Installer memory, you can use those to get things back to "normal" after the firmware install. One way not doing the Reset can screw you up is if you are using the Serial socket in the D2 for remote control. Typically that would involve settings changes in the D2 regarding whether commands get echoed back or not. By doing the Reset, you'll have the D2's serial port set back to the way the Installer needs it to be.

2) Check that your cabling is secure. In particular, screw down the serial cable both at the adapter end and at the socket on the back of the D2. But also make sure the USB tail on the adapter is fully inserted at the computer and adapter ends.

If a reboot of the computer doesn't get you going after the above then you will have to hit the D2 with a bigger hammer. There's a utility available from Anthem Tech Support called Flash Erase. You run that on your Windows PC and it resets the hardware on the D2 so that it will now accept a firmware install. Note that this also deletes your saved Settings, so after the install you will need to redo your Settings manually, from scratch. After you run Flash Erase you should be able to do the Install.

There are some settings for the Serial port on the Windows PC that can screw up communication. If you don't use the Keyspan adapter for anything else, odds are you have not screwed those up. It's also a good sign that the installer was able to find the D2. But if even Flash Erase doesn't work, Anthem Tech Support will likely ask you to go into Windows Device Manager and check that the Serial port established by the Keyspan adapter has been assigned with a name in the range COM1 to COM6, and that it is set appropriately for speed and format.
--Bob


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## Whitl

Bob Pariseau said:


> Two easy things that might get you going:
> 
> 1) You need to Reset Factory Defaults in the D2 before trying to do the firmware install. If you have your Settings saved in User or Installer memory, you can use those to get things back to "normal" after the firmware install. One way not doing the Reset can screw you up is if you are using the Serial socket in the D2 for remote control. Typically that would involve settings changes in the D2 regarding whether commands get echoed back or not. By doing the Reset, you'll have the D2's serial port set back to the way the Installer needs it to be.
> 
> 2) Check that your cabling is secure. In particular, screw down the serial cable both at the adapter end and at the socket on the back of the D2. But also make sure the USB tail on the adapter is fully inserted at the computer and adapter ends.
> 
> If a reboot of the computer doesn't get you going after the above then you will have to hit the D2 with a bigger hammer. There's a utility available from Anthem Tech Support called Flash Erase. You run that on your Windows PC and it resets the hardware on the D2 so that it will now accept a firmware install. Note that this also deletes your saved Settings, so after the install you will need to redo your Settings manually, from scratch. After you run Flash Erase you should be able to do the Install.
> 
> There are some settings for the Serial port on the Windows PC that can screw up communication. If you don't use the Keyspan adapter for anything else, odds are you have not screwed those up. It's also a good sign that the installer was able to find the D2. But if even Flash Erase doesn't work, Anthem Tech Support will likely ask you to go into Windows Device Manager and check that the Serial port established by the Keyspan adapter has been assigned with a name in the range COM1 to COM6, and that it is set appropriately for speed and format.
> --Bob


Bob thanks again for the advice, i will call anthem tomorrow to ask for the flash erase as that is what i think i am going to need to do. The reason i'm trying to re-do the firmware is as a last resort solve the problem of the D2 not re-booting to HDMI, it just sits at powering. Have been dealing with tech support, tried removing and changing all HDMI cables no luck, now i'm trying something you suggested some time ago about a possible corrupt firmware. The 1.33 installer does find the anthem as I see the message, it turns on the D2 and switches it to the FM input, muted flash a few times on the display then goes away and thats about all that happens, haven't done this for awhile, i'm assume that the installer would show some kind of progress if working, but i get nothing and the only way to shutdown the pc is pull the battery and re-boot in safe mode. Live editor works fine as well so i would assume that the keyspan is working fine. Again thanks for the flash erase, not worried about having to re-do all the settings, done it so many times it pretty quick.


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## Whitl

Well the flash erase did work but didn't solve the problem, finally had to pull the unit out and go for a drive to Anthem, to my surprise they fixed in 2 days and I got it back. So now that i have to set it up from scratch again it brings back some problems with the setup. I find the "preset modes" very confusing, i have a cable box and i want the D2 to play the audio format that is transmitted, typically everything is sent as dolby digital, no matter what I seem to pick I never see dolby digital on the display. Any help on explaining these "preset modes" be greatly appreciated.


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## Bob Pariseau

^ The Presets are the default Surround Mode to apply when a given audio content format is being played. The Presets are established per Source Definition.

For a given Source Definition, each line of the Presets menu defines what will happen, by default, when a particular type of audio content is played. For example Stereo. Or Dolby Digital. Or DTS.

The "what will happen" here is a Surround Mode. The key thing to remember is that surround sound processing modes have to do with different ways to raise a LESSER number of content audio channels to a GREATER number of speaker output channels. So for example you'll find a variety of ways to raise 2.0 content to 5.1 or 7.1 speakers, but you won't find a way to diminish 7.1 content channels to Stereo output.

NOTE: The Anthem WILL *DO* that -- will down-mix 5.1 or 7.1 content to 2.0 or 2.1 speaker output if that's all the speakers you happen to have configured, but there are no OPTIONS as to how that down-mixing is performed. It happens automagically. You have options for Surround Modes to increase the number of speakers, but down-mixing, to decrease the number of speakers, happens automatically.

You can also access the Surround modes "on the fly" by pressing the Mode button on the remote and then using the Arrow buttons to cycle through the choices. So the Presets provide a "default" choice, which you can then modify at whim using the Mode button and Arrow buttons.

If you try this, you will soon discover a confusing fact: The Presets allow you to set "default" choices which the Mode button and Arrow buttons won't let you get to!

The difference here is that the Presets let you select all of the possible default choices, whereas the Mode button and Arrow buttons will only let you select the choices that actually make sense given your current configuration. So, for example, if you only have 5.1 speakers, the Mode/Arrow buttons won't offer the choices for how to raise content to 7.1 speakers. But the Presets cheerfully let you set those options as your defaults! When you actually go to play stuff, the Anthem is smart enough to give you the "available" Mode choice which is closest to the Preset you have specified.

As an additional complexity, the Anthem offers "THX Post Processing" via the Surround Sound Modes. The Mode choice tells the method by which a LESSER number of content channels will bet raised to a GREATER number of speaker channels. Then the THX processing, if selected, will modify how that is done. Simplifying, if you are using ARC you probably do NOT want to also use THX post processing. For details on what THX post processing does, see the Manual. There's THX post processing for the Center speaker, and also for the Rear Surrounds (which only does anything if you have a 7.1 speaker system).

So suppose you have 7.1 speakers and play a lot of 5.1 content which you would like to leave in just 5.1 speakers. In that case, the Surround Mode that you want for DD, DTS, and 5.1 Content is "NONE".

NOTE: DTS is weird. DTS implements "speaker presentation" processing, which has to do with expected speaker placement. For a 5.1 speaker system, the Side Surround speakers are expected to be placed a bit BEHIND your seating. But for a 7.1 speaker system, the Side Surrounds are expected to be placed EVEN with your seating. So what should happen if you play 5.1 content into a 7.1 speaker system? Well DTS says that means the Side Surround *CONTENT* channels are authored to be located a bit behind your seating, however your actual, 7.1 speaker, Side Surround SPEAKERS are supposed to be placed even with your seating. Which means the CONTENT channels SHOULD BE somewhat to the Rear of your actual Side Surround speakers! And so DTS decoding rules say that decoding 5.1 content for 7.1 speakers will result in some Side channel audio going to the *REAR* speakers even if you AREN'T using a Surround Mode to "steer" audio to the Rear speakers.

If you only have 5.1 speakers, you will find that a lot of the Surround Sound Modes simply aren't available via the Mode button -- although you CAN set them as a Preset. Why? Because these Modes (see the Manual) define *DIFFERENT WAYS* to steer 5.1 audio to the Rear speakers in a 7.1 speaker setup.

Similarly, you won't find Preset options available for the 7.1 content lines except for whether THX post processing gets applied. Why? Because the Anthem only supports a max of 7.1 speakers, and if you are playing 7.1 content there's no work to be done by a Surround Mode. Your content is ALREADY serving the max number of supported speakers.

All of this stuff is actually described in good detail in the Manual, so long as you keep in mind that some of the Surround Modes are only meaningful if you have enough speakers configured.

If you don't want Surround Sound processing, the you should select Stereo for 2.0 content and NONE for 5.1 and 7.1 content.
--Bob


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## thestewman

Whitl said:


> Need a little help, I have a D2 that i am trying to re-install the firmware, version 1.33. The exe says it finds the D2 when i execute the upgrade, i see the light on the serial to usb adapter flash several times then it stays on constant, i can see the blue "main" light on the D2 itself flash, go solid then flash again. It never finishes and locks the pc, can't shut down the software, it says it is still running, do know how long it takes to upload, have left it running for an hour, the only to stop it is hold the power button in on the pc. Have tried it several times with the same results.


Bob P's explanation of presets is very complete and describes that part of a set up much better than the manual.
In thinking what you asked I think there might be a simpler explanation and it has nothing to do with the mode presets. You asked why the D2 does not show Dolby Digital in the LED display. What is displayed by the D2 is controlled by your cable box as the D2 displays the incoming signal.
Not knowing which cable box you have you need to get into the setup menu and select the audio and set it as Pass Through. Irregardless of how your D2 mode presets are setup the D2 display will show the selected incoming cable audio signal.
I have a a Motorola cable box and by turning the power off with the remote and then selecting menu I am able to select the incoming audio signal I want sent to my D2. Cable systems are either 2 channel stereo or 5.1 Dolby Digital. Pass Through will send the correct audio to the D2 display.


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## Whitl

Okay i think i understand this a little more, if i'm right the preset modes is what processing would be applied to what ever is being transmitted, my case i have a 5.1 setup, if the cable box is transmitting dolby digital and i want no other processing done to it i would choose none for 5.1 in the preset mode. In the case of the OPPO which i have set to LPCM does it matter what the presets are set to. The D2 has 2 lines of info in the display, if the top line says Dolby Digital that would be what is fed, the preset mode would appear on the bottom line and what it shows would be what is applied.

Now for my biggest nemesis is setting the phase for 2 subs before running ARC. I have 2 Monitor Audio subs that have Q-control and phase control. I have read Bob's subwoofer set up many times for setting up the phase of the subs, Bob when i play the pink noise from the FM input i get no activity on the subs, the source setup is set to "Music" which intern is set for left, right and 2 subs, must be another setting some where else that i'm missing. 

Stewman, i have tried your method that you posted in a link a few threads back, haven't had a lot of success with that, by sending the signal to 1 sub from the speaker calibration mode the phase control has no effect on the pressure meter, if i adjust the Q-control that has a big effect on the meter, if i turn it all the way 1.5 on their dial, both subs act the same.

I would like to thank you both for your continued support and help on this thread, it is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!

ps: Anthem found a bad capacitor on the aux power supply and replaced the HDMI out, that has solved the booting up to HDMI probably, certainly was a trying experience solving that problem, kudos to Anthem for a 2 day turn around!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## thestewman

Whitl said:


> Okay i think i understand this a little more, if i'm right the preset modes is what processing would be applied to what ever is being transmitted, my case i have a 5.1 setup, if the cable box is transmitting dolby digital and i want no other processing done to it i would choose none for 5.1 in the preset mode. In the case of the OPPO which i have set to LPCM does it matter what the presets are set to. The D2 has 2 lines of info in the display, if the top line says Dolby Digital that would be what is fed, the preset mode would appear on the bottom line and what it shows would be what is applied.


You are correct. No different for the OPPO. You only have a 5.1 system so PLxII is not needed and THX is not recommended.



Whitl said:


> Now for my biggest nemesis is setting the phase for 2 subs before running ARC. I have 2 Monitor Audio subs that have Q-control and phase control. I have read Bob's subwoofer set up many times for setting up the phase of the subs, Bob when i play the pink noise from the FM input i get no activity on the subs, the source setup is set to "Music" which intern is set for left, right and 2 subs, must be another setting some where else that i'm missing.
> 
> Stewman, i have tried your method that you posted in a link a few threads back, haven't had a lot of success with that, by sending the signal to 1 sub from the speaker calibration mode the phase control has no effect on the pressure meter, if i adjust the Q-control that has a big effect on the meter, if i turn it all the way 1.5 on their dial, both subs act the same.



First make sure in your D2 settings you have 1 Sub selected not 2.
The Q control effects the response and dampening of the sub to match the dampening speed of the main speakers.
*It does not effect phase so turn it to Zero for your phasing setup.*

Courtesy of AVS Forum member dmusoke
Here are the two easiest methods of setting phase for two subwoofers 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...0v-arc1-tweaking-guide-1047.html#post19542630

I suggest you use one of 2 methods. The 'NULL' method or the 'PEAK' method. I also would suggest you first go through the normal speaker calibration process as has been described here generously and many times over by Bob Pariseau and others. Both methods also require you to have an external noise source set to generate signals around your crossover frequency as indicated by previous ARC measurements.

*Before you start, make sure the phase knobs (if they exist) of your subs are set to 0 degrees!!!*

NULL Method:

1. After, the above calibration process is done, now reverse the polarity of the LF speaker terminals. You can do this directly at the speaker terminals or at the back/rear of your power amplifier (but NOT both).

2. Go to your sub distance setting in the Setup -> Listener Position -> Subwoofer in the setup menu.

3. Play your noise source and measure the SPL reading on your RS meter as you vary the subwoofer distance settings from 0 to max in 0.5 ft increments as you record the SPL reading from the RS meter.

4. The distance setting that gives you the MINIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....

Remember to reverse the LF speaker terminals (at the speaker itself or the back of the power amp) to their correct polarity!!!.


PEAK Method:

1. Do NOT reverse LF speaker polarity as described above in NULL method.

Same steps 2-3 as above.

4. The distance setting that gives you the MAXIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....

My preference is for the NULL method for its easier to detect reliable nulls than peaks on the RS meter.

David
EDIT: You might have to re-ARC your system after the above mentioned phase alignment.



Whitl said:


> I would like to thank you both for your continued support and help on this thread, it is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!
> 
> ps: Anthem found a bad capacitor on the aux power supply and replaced the HDMI out, that has solved the booting up to HDMI probably, certainly was a trying experience solving that problem, kudos to Anthem for a 2 day turn around!!!!!!!!!!!!


Lesson here. When in need of Anthem service arrange to stay over night at the Whitl residence in Ontario


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## Bob Pariseau

*Mac -> Parallels 11 -> Windows 10 -> Anthem: It works!*

The time finally arrived for me to replace my prior, Windows environment for doing Anthem stuff. I had been using Windows 7 running via Apple's Boot Camp on a Mac laptop.

This time I decided to try Windows 10 Home 64-bit, running via Parallels 11 Desktop, all on a new, Apple MacBook Pro 15" (mid 2015). And I'm happy to say it all works!

This is despite the several posts from a few months back where folks reported they could not get ARC to work via Windows 10.

It appears those folks were either suffering under early Windows 10 bugs, probably for the USB subsystem, or perhaps had problems specific to the Windows computers they were trying to use with Windows 10.

With this new setup, on my D2v / 3D I've already done a firmware re-install. I've also done an ARC Measurement and Upload. No problems.

For anyone here using the newer, Anthem Receiver products -- the ones that run ARC 2 via the network instead of via a Serial cable. That works too!

-------------------------------

There are a couple gotchas here to be aware of.

For folks using ARC 2 (i.e., the version that runs via the network), be aware that the default setting for the networking support Parallels 11 provides to the Windows 10 virtual machine is "Shared". Set to "Shared", Windows 10 sees a network that is actually set up entirely by the Mac. In particular, Windows 10 does not get its own IP address, and is not discoverable as a "separate computer". Turns out that using "Shared" prevents ARC 2 from discovering your Anthem unit on the network.

The fix is to set Parallels to use "Bridged" networking for the Windows 10 virtual machine. (You can switch this "on the fly"; even while Windows 10 is running!) Set that way, Windows 10 still uses the same networking HARDWARE in use by the Mac (e.g., the Mac's Wifi), but Windows 10 gets its own IP address and is separately discoverable. Set to "Bridged", ARC 2 has no problems finding appropriate Anthem units on the network.

NOTE: The first time you run ARC 2 with "Bridged" set, Windows 10 Firewall will pop up and ask if you are really OK with this app interacting on your local network. Authorize it, and you'll have no further problems.

The second gotcha has to do with the capture of USB devices for use by Windows 10. I.e., the ARC microphone or the Keyspan USA-19HS USB to Serial Adapter.

Turns out the latest Mac OS X release -- 10.11.2 -- broke the way Parallels does that. Parallels support tells me an update should come out this week to fix this, but in the interim there is a workaround:

1) Shut down the Windows 10 virtual machine, and then also Quit out of Parallels on the Mac.

2) Unplug any USB devices you want to use in Windows 10.

3) Launch Parallels, and then also Start the Windows 10 Virtual Machine.

4) Plug in a USB device. Parallels will pop up a box asking whether you want that device to be presented for use by the Mac or by Windows 10. Select Windows 10. This is where things screw up, as the USB device is not actually presented to Windows 10 at this point.

5) Unplug that USB device, wait a moment, and plug it back in again. It will NOW be presented to Windows 10, and things "just work" from there.

6) Repeat (4) and (5) for the next USB device.

7) Do NOT unplug a USB device after it is working in Windows 10, or you will have to start over from (1) above.

----------------------------------------------

I use Windows as little as possible, and that's not likely to change. But I have to give credit that the driver installs and app execution I needed to make the Anthem stuff work, all "just worked" in this new setup. No issues with Windows 10 running the stuff I have to run on Windows.

For folks unfamiliar with Parallels 11 Desktop, its default configuration for a new virtual machine -- such as a Windows 10 environment -- is to have it HIGHLY INTEGRATED with the Mac! Windows can read and write files on the Mac and vice versa. Apps are merged so that you see Windows apps the same way you would see Mac apps. It's just when you launch a Windows app, it runs under the Windows 10 virtual machine. App windows on your screen might be Mac apps or Windows apps. Account profiles, home folders, desktop folders, documents, downloads, and even trash are also merged.

If you are like me, and get prickly skin at the thought that something running in Windows might be able to touch your Mac environment, be aware that it is actually surprisingly easy to CHANGE the configuration of Parallels to TURN OFF all that "integration". Or as much of it as you don't want.

So for example, I have things set so that the Mac can see, read, and write files in the Windows 10 virtual hard drive, but Windows 10 can't even SEE the Mac file structure. When I want to do Windows stuff, apps run inside a Mac window showing the virtual machine. If you LIKE the integration stuff, it actually seems to be very well done. But if you find it scary, you can isolate Windows as much or as little as you want.

All in all, I'd have to say the Parallels 11 Desktop, virtual machine app has exceeded my expectations.

----------------------------------------

ETA: One guess from the folks reporting problems with Windows 10 a couple months back was that the issue had to do with USB 3 hardware on the computer. The guess being that ARC's mic drivers did not play well with USB 3 sockets.

It turns out Parallels 11 lets you configure whether the Windows 10 virtual machine sees the Mac's USB 3 sockets *AS* USB 3 or not. But it wasn't an issue. I left Parallels 11 on its default setting (use them as USB 3) and there was no problem with my ARC mics or with the Keyspan adapter.

NOTE: Anthem actually has several different generations of ARC Mic hardware, identified by the first digit of the mic's serial number. The mics I tested were series 2 and 3 mics. No problems with either of those. I don't have an older, series 1 mic to test.

-----------------------------------------

ETA 2: The expected fix to Parallels 11 Desktop for Mac to fix the USB capture problem mentioned above came out today (Dec. 29) and appears to work. Should be no need to use the workaround detailed above any longer.

They also made a change to networking which reads as if it might be related to why I had to use Bridged networking instead of the default Shared, but I haven't tested that yet.

----------------------------------------

ETA 3: Just checked and you still need to set "Bridged" networking in this setup for ARC 2 to be able to discover appropriate Anthem units.
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I forgot to mention one other item which doesn't really seem to be a problem, but is bound to make people nervous:

Windows evidently thinks the Anthem firmware installers are functioning as installers within the Windows environment itself. This is presumably due to how they are coded in terms of the files/folders they can access in Windows. So when you start the firmware installer, Windows puts up a box asking whether it is OK to let this app make changes to the Windows setup even though it comes from an "unknown" developer. This was true in my prior, Windows 7 setup as well, and is almost certainly due to the app not being "signed" in a way that makes Windows feel cozy.

But new for Windows 10, when the firmware installer finishes and you exit from it, Windows 10 puts up another box saying this installer may not have completed its install "properly". It offers to run a "compatibility" check. Again this is presumably because the Anthem program has not followed the rules for what Windows 10 thinks an installer of stuff within Windows should do. Adjusting Register entries or such like.

There is an option for the user to state that the installer actually worked correctly, and that's what I selected. Since the Anthem firmware installer is not actually making changes to Windows 10, that should be fine. But seeing a warning like this pop up is certainly going to leave some folks worried.
--Bob


----------



## Whitl

Okay i have moved on to running ARC on the D2, the screen captures are below, hope i did it right haven't done this in a while. As usual i don't think i've done to good with the subs, any suggestion again very appreciated, unfortunately the location of the 2 subs cannot be changed, the downside of moving to a condo with concrete floors, wall and ceilings and a very limited number of ac outlets.


----------



## Whitl

sorry about the screen captures pretty small, will try to figure out why they are so small


----------



## Kensmith48

The Targets window looks like it's showing all 00's. The speaker graphs look good. The subwoofers need some work.


----------



## Kensmith48

Bob,
I have a MS Surface Pro 3 running Windows 10 w/ a D2v 3D and the only problem I've had from day 1 is that the graphs are always at 65 db instead of 75. (I set it to run at 75 using a Radio Shack sound meter). Recently after a MS upgrade ARC wouldn't work. Kept getting a message saying to load the program again using the disk. I've done that and everything went ok, I haven't tested it yet though.
Ken


----------



## thestewman

Whitl said:


> Okay i have moved on to running ARC on the D2, the screen captures are below, hope i did it right haven't done this in a while. As usual i don't think i've done to good with the subs, any suggestion again very appreciated, unfortunately the location of the 2 subs cannot be changed, the downside of moving to a condo with concrete floors, wall and ceilings and a very limited number of ac outlets.


Something wrong with your targets they should not have zeros.
Basically the subs should be around 120 hz to 160hz. The subs are going from around 80hz to a bit over 100 hz. The Fronts should be around 80 hz.
The sub graphs are not good. The cutoffs are way before the subs have a chance to be subs.
The fronts cutoff a bit early at the low frequencies.

Something was not done properly when running ARC as the subs are not producing sub frequencies
Did you set the sub distance measurements into the setup ?
Did you clear the setup by saving users setup and then loading the factory defaults ?
Did you set the sub's Crossover control to OFF or ByPASS ?
The Q control and the phase control should be at ZERO
Sorry I am not being critical just trying to help without actually being there to assist.


----------



## Stevetd

Has anyone put a document together from this thread laying out the best ARC practices? My Axiom A1400-8 crapped on me New Years Eve and I have friends coming over for dinner and a movie tonight and I have to work most of the day. Luckily I still had a Sunfire TGA-400 laying around that I got set up last night but, I have no time to go back through all these pages. I'll have to wing it otherwise. It's been at least two years since my last ARC re-do so, I'm lost.


----------



## stevelup

You don't need to redo ARC just because you've changed your power amplifier.


----------



## Stevetd

stevelup said:


> You don't need to redo ARC just because you've changed your power amplifier.


I was running two fronts with the 8 channel Axiom but, besides that it sounds terrible. I thought I could just get by too.

Edit: I believe this is a lost cause. I can't even get the usb connection working in windows 10.......

I'll just try and tweak it manually until I can figure all this out.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ What is happening when you try to use the USB with Windows 10? And are you talking about the mic USB connection or the Keyspan USB to Serial Adapter?
--Bob


----------



## Stevetd

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ What is happening when you try to use the USB with Windows 10? And are you talking about the mic USB connection or the Keyspan USB to Serial Adapter?
> --Bob


Bob, It's the Keyspan USB to Serial. I'm getting this error. I've tried multiple 2.0 ports that are available.


----------



## drhankz

Stevetd said:


> Bob, It's the Keyspan USB to Serial. I'm getting this error. I've tried multiple 2.0 ports that are available.


Prolific is NOT Keyspan 

Which one do you have?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

It looks like you've got a "Prolific" driver showing in Device Manager instead of the expected Keyspan driver. 

I suggest you go to the Driver tab in the panel where it is complaining and delete that driver. You may also need to go to the USB devices line item and Delete a driver in there too. Not sure about that. Then unplug and replug the Keyspan and let Windows 10 do its thing automatically installing the correct driver for the Keyspan. 

It is also probably a good idea to restart Windows after deleting the old driver and again after it installs the new driver. 
--Bob


----------



## Stevetd

Bob, drhankz, My apologies as I was confused in thinking that I used a usb to serial converter. I have all my ARC stuff in my Audyssey Pro kit so I guess I used the Prolific with that. I still have an old XP laptop with a serial port so that'll be utilized. 

Now I just need to freshen up. My speaker set up is Def-tech 7001 mains (powered 10" subs built-in), Def-tech 3000 center, matching timber Speakercraft 8" in-ceiling surrounds and rears (I know its not the best setup for surrounds but, it works well) and two JL f212's for a 7.6 system. I can't really move the f212's around. Any advice for Arcing this? Thanks!

Edit: Is there a way to toggle Arc Movie/Music bass management? I've never made separate measurements before but, this time I left the center channel out of Music. Now I can't figure out how to change to it. Hopefully it's more accessible than settings within sources, otherwise it's useless for me.


----------



## bekindrewind

I recently tried to play two movies from Netflix, National Lampoon Vacation and National Lampoon European Vacation on my Oppo BDP-103. Both movies are suppose to be DTS mono. When both are played the center channel sound fine, however the Left Surround speaker also plays, a horrible raspy sound. Why is the LS on? 

My friend has an Oppo BDP-103, so I took mine over to his house and played the Movie. No problem on his or mine in his system. So the problem is not the Oppo. He has a Denon receiver. It played DTS mono like it should. It's got to be some setting in the Anthem D2v is off or there's something wrong with the D2v in decoding?

Oppo setup:
Audio format Setup, secondary audio-off, HDMI audio-auto or bitstream, coaxial/optical output-bitstream, SACD output-auto, HDCD decoding-off, has latest firmware.

D2v 5.1 setup:
Mode preset for DVD
A. 2.0: stereo
B. 2 sur: same as 2.0
C. 6.0: none
D. DD5: none
E. EX: same as DD-5.1
F. DTS: none
G. ES: none
H. 7.1: none

No THX processing.

I've swapped the Center XLR to the LS XLR. The raspy noise moves the center channel. So, why is the LS activated and why so distorted/raspy?

All other blu-rays and dvd 's play fine, DD or DTS all channels.

This problem is only with these two blu-rays that are DTS mono with the D2v. 

If I choose commentary, the processing changes to DD mono and plays fine. It also plays fine in all the other languages which are in DD. For some reason, the D2v has a problem with decoding DTS mono. LS gets added and sounds distorted and raspy in the LS only. Center sounds fine.

I've tried using another HDMI cable that I know is good, no change.
I've tried using another HDMI port in the D2v, no change, still activates LS and sounds bad.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ What firmware do you have installed in the D2v? Press Select once on the remote and it will show in the on-screen display.

You should have v3.09 installed in a D2v, or v3.10 installed in a D2v / 3D.
--Bob


----------



## bekindrewind

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ What firmware do you have installed in the D2v? Press Select once on the remote and it will show in the on-screen display.
> 
> You should have v3.09 installed in a D2v, or v3.10 installed in a D2v / 3D.
> --Bob


I have D2v, firmware v2.10. 
In 12.13.12 I upgraded to v3.09
Wondering how it went back to the older 2.10?

Well, I have a 2015 iMac and have yet to install windows on it.
I have windows 7. Is that ok or do I need to upgrade windows to 10?
I wish Anthem used mac os.

So, I'll upload windows and do a firmware update.
Bob, do you think that will fix it?

Any idea why the Left Surround is being activated? Why is it distorted?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

I think it's a bug due to the outdated firmware. 

As far as the Anthem firmware installer goes, Windows 7 is fine. 
--Bob


----------



## mkaye

having trouble with my TiVo Premiere 3 & Netflix after working flawlessly for 3 yrs
can't play certain shows (that I have played in the past)
these shows work on my iPad Netflix
no changes to the D2v

after lots of troubleshooting, here's what I know:

connect directly to display (1080p projector)
TiVo menus are 1080p24, shows that work are 1080p24
shows that didn't play, do play now, but are 1080i60

through D2v- video config 1 - 1080p60
if I disable TiVo 1080p passthrough the 1080i shows now play
tried video config 2 (1080p24) and it didn't help


have no idea what has changed other than possible firmware upgrades on the TiVo


mark


----------



## mkaye

to me, it looks like the D2v will not switch from 1080p24 to 1080i any longer
I disabled 1080p passthru on the TiVo so the output is now 1080i and everything works properly in Netflix
I have reset the D2v by pulling the plug for 30s
I moved the hdmi connection to the bottom row - no change
maybe a firmware reload will fix it?

mark


----------



## dmusoke

Can someone do me a favor by performing this quick test? I seem to have some FM radio station leaking through to my speakers...


1. Switch your Anthem to the FM radio input and tune in to some decently strong radio station.

2. Switch back to your regular input (say your Cable/Satellite TV input) till you get normal programming playing OK as usual.

3. *Mute* this input on the remote. All audio should be silent by now.

4. Walk over and place your ears next to your speakers.

5. Do you hear the sound of the aforementioned FM radio station in step 1? Do you hear anything that sounds like a radio station?


In my case, I hear sound coming through my speakers. Faint but sometimes audible at my LP especially the cymbals when Jazz is playing.


I first thought it was stray pickup through my pre-out interconnects + speaker cables but I disconnected the preamp cables from the D2v and that stopped the stray radio sounds from my speakers. I reconnected everything back into the D2v and I could hear the stray radio station playing again. Mind you, the D2v is still MUTED all this while. So somehow, the radio station is audible when all audio is supposedly MUTED to zero.

All I expected to hear was the noise floor of my amplifier when placing my ears next to my speakers...

- David


----------



## mkaye

dmusoke said:


> Can someone do me a favor by performing this quick test? I seem to have some FM radio station leaking through to my speakers...
> 
> 
> 1. Switch your Anthem to the FM radio input and tune in to some decently strong radio station.
> 
> 2. Switch back to your regular input (say your Cable/Satellite TV input) till you get normal programming playing OK as usual.
> 
> 3. *Mute* this input on the remote. All audio should be silent by now.
> 
> 4. Walk over and place your ears next to your speakers.
> 
> 5. Do you hear the sound of the aforementioned FM radio station in step 1? Do you hear anything that sounds like a radio station?
> 
> 
> In my case, I hear sound coming through my speakers. Faint but sometimes audible at my LP especially the cymbals when Jazz is playing.
> 
> 
> I first thought it was stray pickup through my pre-out interconnects + speaker cables but I disconnected the preamp cables from the D2v and that stopped the stray radio sounds from my speakers. I reconnected everything back into the D2v and I could hear the stray radio station playing again. Mind you, the D2v is still MUTED all this while. So somehow, the radio station is audible when all audio is supposedly MUTED to zero.
> 
> All I expected to hear was the noise floor of my amplifier when placing my ears next to my speakers...
> 
> - David


are you hearing the same radio station or some random station?
the same station would indicate a muting issue
a random station could indicate a bad solder connection somewhere
if you tune to a non-station does the stray audio stop?

mark


----------



## dmusoke

When I tune away to a non-station producing the 'Shhhh' sounds, then I get a much reduced audio leakage. Its mostly the hissing sound i get with a very faint audio from a radio station of unknown origin. It could be the prior station or a random one but its so faint its tough to reliably tell.

But when I tune to a particular audible station, then the leakage of that station is heard when all is muted as mentioned before.


----------



## mkaye

I picked an fm station - mute - no leakage
picked another input - no leakage

mark


----------



## mkaye

I picked an fm station - mute - no leakage
picked another input - no leakage

mark


----------



## MitchPope

dmusoke said:


> Can someone do me a favor by performing this quick test? I seem to have some FM radio station leaking through to my speakers...


Same for me, nothing leaking through.


----------



## dmusoke

Thank you guys. Then there's a problem with my unit


----------



## studlygoorite

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ What firmware do you have installed in the D2v? Press Select once on the remote and it will show in the on-screen display.
> 
> You should have v3.09 installed in a D2v, or v3.10 installed in a D2v / 3D.
> --Bob


Hello again, I just read the part about the v3.10, I must have missed that when it was available, I am currently on v3.09f with my D2v3D, can you tell me the changes from v3.09f to v3.10? I see that v3.09 is the last stable though but if the changes can help me then I am in. 

John


----------



## thestewman

Dmusoke

Before condemning the unit I would go this route.
Disconnect all input and output, cable TV and radio antenna connections
Leave 1 amp right or left front connected so you can hear any signal
Now with absolutely no input or output ,cable tv or antennas connected do you hear the FM signal ?
If not connect the cable TV coax. Test for FM bleed. None
Now try the radio antenna. Test again
Continue adding an input one at a time
The go to the output connections and finally the amps

By process of elimination you may find the source of the radio signal. 
It can take a badly soldered shield or ground to allow a stray signal in and then be modulated.
If you isolate the connection source then try cable replacement with that source.

Let us know


----------



## AVfile

Someone asked recently if there was a summary of useful posts from this thread. I recall that a kind person (Emosewa09) put a sort of "digest" document together a couple years ago, and have linked the following post for your information:



Emosewa09 said:


> *Those who are new to these pre-pro processors might find the attached Word document to be helpful as you learn how to use your new unit.*
> 
> I'd like to thank Bob and all of you for the great service that you provide through this forum. You provide invaluable information that is not covered in the D2v manual, and my understanding of the D2v has greatly improved as a result of the comments posted in this thread.
> 
> My first step was to read all of the links posted by Bob at the beginning of this thread. But I often wanted to go back and read a specific comment again, but coudn't quickly find it among the long list of the posts. So I copied and pasted almost of the linked posts recommended by Bob, at the start of this thread, into a Word document, which is attached -- and might be helpful to anyone who just purchased one of these pre-pros as I did.
> 
> Several caveats. I copied and pasted quickly, and might have missed a post or two. I also did not include the posts about upgrading ARC for those with older units, as that was not of concern to me when I started my copying and pasting. I did include the posts about how to upgrade firmware though. I also tried to differentiate between a posted question and Bob's response by inserting "response," but I might have missed that in a few cases. Finally, I tried to broadly divide the posts between audio and video.
> 
> So the bottom line is that I prepared the Word document quickly, and while it might be useful for others, I don't claim I picked up all the posts or pasted correctly.
> 
> What is most noteworthy is the sheer length of the document. Using 11 point type, it is 120 pages long. That underscores the number of clarifying posts made by Bob and all of you for the direct benefit of new owners of these processors, such as myself. The amount of information is incredible and it is very comprehensive.
> 
> And the credit for those posts goes to Bob and to all of you. All I did was copy and paste without any edits or other comments
> 
> *The document also underscores the underlying weakness of the D2v manual -- a point I already made to Nick.* I initially compared the D2v manual to the Lexicon MC12HD manual. The Lexicon manual is far more comprehensive in how it covers operational issues. *Where the D2v manual is really skimpy and inadequate is on ARC and all ARC associated issues, including how to set up one or more subwoofers*. Compare the D2v or ARC manual to the coverage of those issues in this forum and in the attached Word document.
> 
> Nick responded that some owners wanted a manual that is shorter and easier to understand. Frankly, I doubt that, and believe that most of us would rather have a manual that is more comprehensive rather than less so. After all, the D2v is $9500 at MSRP. Anyone who buys it is looking for a very sophisticated and complex piece of electronics, and wants to have a full understanding of the subtle operation of the unit.
> 
> Nick needs to only compare the attached Word document to the manual, and prepare a list of the issues that are not adequately covered by the manual. Frankly, another example of the inadequate manual is provided in my post directly above this one. The manual provides only two sentences -- yes, two brief sentences -- about OSD using HDMI 2 Output. And that sentence is very vague and confusing. That explains why the experts in this forum also apparently did not fully understand how OSD operates. How could they, given the inadequate coverage in the manual?
> 
> *Nick, again, go through the Word document, especially on ARC, to see areas where the manual could be improved. Alternatively, consider covering the more technical issues in a separate manual or in separate web pages in the support section of the Anthem web site.*
> 
> AVS Recommended Posts on Anthem processors.doc 396k .doc file



I haven't read the attached doc file, but hopefully someone finds it useful.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

studlygoorite said:


> Hello again, I just read the part about the v3.10, I must have missed that when it was available, I am currently on v3.09f with my D2v3D, can you tell me the changes from v3.09f to v3.10? I see that v3.09 is the last stable though but if the changes can help me then I am in.
> 
> John


These are the changes posted by Anthem for firmware after v3.09f and up to v3.10. As a reminder to folks who don't have the 3D upgrade, firmware after Official v3.09 is not approved for that hardware. Use v3.09 for the D2v. Use v3.10 for the D2v / 3D.

"CHANGE LIST

v3.10 release candidate

1. Rotating knob very quickly caused front panel display to freeze - fixed.


v3.09l beta

1. Fixed issue where Dolby Pro Logic IIx Music was not available for 2-channel 24/192 input.


v3.09j beta

1. Fixed serial control issue where Zone 2 had no audio if powering on to tuner.

2. Fixed AVM 50v issue where noise was present when playing 176.4 kHz source.


v3.09h release candidate:

1. When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source was playing, a surround upmix mode couldn't be selected - fixed.

2. False "No Input Signal" status info when receiving 2-channel input - fixed.

3. "Last Used" mode preset reverted to "None" under certain conditions - fixed.

4. Previous DTS changes now certified."


To me the most important of these is the last line: Firmware v3.10 has passed a new certification by DTS for all the myriad combinations of DTS Bitstream audio. And you've got no idea how bizarre that is!
--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite

Bob Pariseau said:


> These are the changes posted by Anthem for firmware after v3.09f and up to v3.10. As a reminder to folks who don't have the 3D upgrade, firmware after Official v3.09 is not approved for that hardware. Use v3.09 for the D2v. Use v3.10 for the D2v / 3D.
> 
> "CHANGE LIST
> 
> v3.10 release candidate
> 
> 1. Rotating knob very quickly caused front panel display to freeze - fixed.
> 
> 
> v3.09l beta
> 
> 1. Fixed issue where Dolby Pro Logic IIx Music was not available for 2-channel 24/192 input.
> 
> 
> v3.09j beta
> 
> 1. Fixed serial control issue where Zone 2 had no audio if powering on to tuner.
> 
> 2. Fixed AVM 50v issue where noise was present when playing 176.4 kHz source.
> 
> 
> v3.09h release candidate:
> 
> 1. When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source was playing, a surround upmix mode couldn't be selected - fixed.
> 
> 2. False "No Input Signal" status info when receiving 2-channel input - fixed.
> 
> 3. "Last Used" mode preset reverted to "None" under certain conditions - fixed.
> 
> 4. Previous DTS changes now certified."
> 
> 
> To me the most important of these is the last line: Firmware v3.10 has passed a new certification by DTS for all the myriad combinations of DTS Bitstream audio. And you've got no idea how bizarre that is!
> --Bob


Thanks for this Bob


----------



## mkaye

i reloaded the firmware in my D2v and it did NOT fix my TiVo problem
have to keep 1080p unchecked in TiVo

mark


----------



## RobDec

*Anthem amps*

Hi
Been researching new amps for my D2v 3D. Considering Anthem A5 and A2. How do these amps do with the D2v 3D? I also have B&W 804n fronts and 805n surrounds and rears, and an HTM center. Also considering Parasound A51 and A21. But am leaning on the A5 and A2 combo because I have the Anthem processor. 
Ill be replacing Krell Kav 250a amps.

Thank you
Rob


----------



## AVfile

I have the A5+A2 on my 50v and love it. This setup blew away my previous Lexicon on a simple music concert DVD and that was without even running ARC.


----------



## RobDec

Hi again
Talked to an A/V salesman, and he told me the Anthem A5 & A2 sound "old and tired". He was pushing the Parasound A51 and A21, and said they are much better than the Anthems. I also was researching online and basically found out you cant go wrong with both brands. However a couple of posts said the Anthems were "bright and thin". I personally was thinking about going with the A5 and A2 because I have the D2v 3D and was thinking I would get more synergy. Im hoping the Anthems will destroy my aging Krell KAV 250
Any input or thoughts would be appreciated.
Thank you 
Rob


----------



## thestewman

You need to believe in your ears. Find a dealer who is not pushing "his product of the month" and get a demo to use in your home.
Personally I like the Brystons better than either of the two you are looking at


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Be sure to ask which one "lifts the veil". The answer will be meaningless, but it's fun to watch the sales guy try to remember all his cliches.
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Be sure to ask which one "lifts the veil". The answer will be meaningless, but it's fun to watch the sales guy try to remember all his cliches.
> --Bob


 Well put. !


----------



## Stevetd

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Be sure to ask which one "lifts the veil". The answer will be meaningless, but it's fun to watch the sales guy try to remember all his cliches.
> --Bob



Ha-ha! Good one Bob. I'll use that one in future conversations just to see reactions. LOL. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AVfile

I have Bryston too, on my stereo. They're awesome but much more expensive. I would say the A2 is a touch warmer and better bang for the buck. 

The amps with the silver faceplates lift the veil and have more air. The black faceplates gives you a darker, quieter background. The blue LED option sounds cooler; the standard green LED more organic


----------



## RobDec

Thanks guys
And LOL Bob and Stefan!

Rob


----------



## Kevin. W

Anthem AVM50/3D or Yamaha CX-A5000. Which one would you choose. Setup is Paradigm Studio 100(v3)/CC690(v5)/ADP590(v5), powered by and Anthem MCA5.


----------



## thestewman

Try a dart board.




In all seriousness go watch the type of videos you watch. 1080p 4k etc. Then carefully listen to each. Check and make sure the features and applications you need are there. Then decide if the cost is in your budget


----------



## Ed Weinman

I need help activating the ARC program.

I've reinstalled the program from the disc several times and the message that I get is
"failed to find microphone calibration files for unit no...."

What am I doing wrong?

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Sent you a PM with Sage Advice™.
--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman

Bob,

Thank you
Ed


----------



## bekindrewind

RobDec said:


> Hi
> Been researching new amps for my D2v 3D. Considering Anthem A5 and A2. How do these amps do with the D2v 3D? I also have B&W 804n fronts and 805n surrounds and rears, and an HTM center. Also considering Parasound A51 and A21. But am leaning on the A5 and A2 combo because I have the Anthem processor.
> Ill be replacing Krell Kav 250a amps.
> 
> Thank you
> Rob


Researching amps for the D2v 3D. Consider researching which amps sound good with the brand of speakers you're using too. My research said that B&W speakers sound good with McIntosh. I'm very happy with that combination. 

That may be a question for the D2v / D2v3D guys here. Did you, do you, put more weight on the processor/amp combination or amp/speaker combination.


----------



## bekindrewind

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ What firmware do you have installed in the D2v? Press Select once on the remote and it will show in the on-screen display.
> 
> You should have v3.09 installed in a D2v, or v3.10 installed in a D2v / 3D.
> --Bob


Bob, wanted to post a thank you for chimming in on how to fix the problem I had.
I updated the D2v firmware and it fixed the problem.
You so smart.
We're lucky to have you help us.
Cheers.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Fortunately, my Plan comes with Extra Nights and Weekends Minutes of Fame.

I'm glad the fix was as simple for you as updating the firmware!
--Bob


----------



## Kevin. W

thestewman said:


> Try a dart board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all seriousness go watch the type of videos you watch. 1080p 4k etc. Then carefully listen to each. Check and make sure the features and applications you need are there. Then decide if the cost is in your budget


Either one would fit the bill. My setup is 5.1/1080p so 4k is irrelevant right now. I can get a 2.5yr old AVM50V 3D for $2300CDn. What you think?


----------



## studlygoorite

Kevin. W said:


> Either one would fit the bill. My setup is 5.1/1080p so 4k is irrelevant right now. I can get a 2.5yr old AVM50V 3D for $2300CDn. What you think?


Sent you two PMs but I can't see that they went through.


----------



## Kevin. W

If Anthem was to offer an upgrade to 4K video for the unit like they did for 3D would you buy it?


----------



## studlygoorite

Kevin. W said:


> If Anthem was to offer an upgrade to 4K video for the unit like they did for 3D would you buy it?


I am waiting and would.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The question to ask is if you would be satisfied with just 4K "pass through", or would it only make sense if the unit also offered video processing for 4K content?

Keep in mind that in addition to the higher resolution (much more processing power needed), 4K processing is complicated by Wide Color Gamut and High Dynamic Range which comes in several flavors. Video processing would also require the unit to handle the conversion between 4K input and less than 4K output when connected to non-4K displays. (With pass-through, it is the source device that handles that.) Processing 4K video would absolutely require replacing the video board in the unit, not just the HDMI hardware. The video board is the single most expensive piece in the unit.

Then tack on "3D" audio and you've pretty much got a whole new device -- hardware and firmware. The bottom line being that an "upgrade" seems unlikely. At best Anthem would likely offer some sort of subsidized "trade in" plan.

If you are going to go for 4K "pass through" then it would likely have to function like the "through" mode in the D2v/3D today. I.e., *NO* access to video processing or conversion features on either input or output. Which pretty much means what you are paying for is audio quality alone. And as an "upgrade" that would almost certainly mean no "3D" audio support (Atmos, etc.) because there's no real estate left on the back panel for the extra speaker outputs.
--Bob


----------



## stanger89

Bob Pariseau said:


> Keep in mind that in addition to the higher resolution (much more processing power needed), 4K processing is complicated by Wide Color Gamut and High Dynamic Range which comes in several flavors. Video processing would also require the unit to handle the conversion between 4K input and less than 4K output when connected to non-4K displays. (With pass-through, it is the source device that handles that.) Processing 4K video would absolutely require replacing the video board in the unit, not just the HDMI hardware. The video board is the single most expensive piece in the unit.


Yeah, just go look at the cost of a Lumagen Radiance Pro for an idea of what _good_ 4K video processing costs.

Interestingly, I was playing my new Roku 4 and Integral, and when I had the second output send just audio to my AVM50V, it actually displayed 2160p on the display


----------



## studlygoorite

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ The question to ask is if you would be satisfied with just 4K "pass through", or would it only make sense if the unit also offered video processing for 4K content?
> 
> Keep in mind that in addition to the higher resolution (much more processing power needed), 4K processing is complicated by Wide Color Gamut and High Dynamic Range which comes in several flavors. Video processing would also require the unit to handle the conversion between 4K input and less than 4K output when connected to non-4K displays. (With pass-through, it is the source device that handles that.) Processing 4K video would absolutely require replacing the video board in the unit, not just the HDMI hardware. The video board is the single most expensive piece in the unit.
> 
> Then tack on "3D" audio and you've pretty much got a whole new device -- hardware and firmware. The bottom line being that an "upgrade" seems unlikely. At best Anthem would likely offer some sort of subsidized "trade in" plan.
> 
> If you are going to go for 4K "pass through" then it would likely have to function like the "through" mode in the D2v/3D today. I.e., *NO* access to video processing or conversion features on either input or output. Which pretty much means what you are paying for is audio quality alone. And as an "upgrade" that would almost certainly mean no "3D" audio support (Atmos, etc.) because there's no real estate left on the back panel for the extra speaker outputs.
> --Bob


I noticed the new MRX-1120 has everything needed for 4K with pre-outs and power, I wonder if this may be the D2v replacement...........


----------



## stanger89

There's an AVM60 that's the AVM50V replacement. HDMI 2.0, Atmos, DTS-X, but no video processor, just passthrough (though it does have an OSD).


----------



## studlygoorite

stanger89 said:


> There's an AVM60 that's the AVM50V replacement. HDMI 2.0, Atmos, DTS-X, but no video processor, just passthrough (though it does have an OSD).


Wow, I did not know that either, thanks. I need to get out more.


----------



## Kevin. W

studlygoorite said:


> Wow, I did not know that either, thanks. I need to get out more.


AVM 50v 3D: $8999CDN
AVM 60: $3499CDN

Makes you wonder what was comprised. Personally I just took ownership of an AVM50v 3D. What a beautiful piece of hardware. Just got to figure out the ARC calibration to finalize my setup.


----------



## Shrike645

Kevin. W said:


> AVM 50v 3D: $8999CDN
> AVM 60: $3499CDN
> 
> Makes you wonder what was comprised. Personally I just took ownership of an AVM50v 3D. What a beautiful piece of hardware. Just got to figure out the ARC calibration to finalize my setup.


Mostly the video processor.


----------



## AVfile

That and no longer made in Canada as an analog preamp first.

It's an MRX without amps, better ADC and balanced outputs added.


----------



## Kevin. W

I was wondering if anyone can help me on this issue. Have my computer(its a beast) hooked up to the Anthem via HDMI, which then runs to the tv.

1. When I turn on the computer I'm not able to get a picture on the screen until it gets to the Win 10 login screen, so I am unable to access the BIOS.

2. Playing COD, my audio is cutting in and out. Didn't happen with my Yamaha CX-A5000

Video Card is an AMD FuryX. Audio is via AMD High Def Audio Device


----------



## Apgood

Kevin. W said:


> I was wondering if anyone can help me on this issue. Have my computer(its a beast) hooked up to the Anthem via HDMI, which then runs to the tv.
> 
> 1. When I turn on the computer I'm not able to get a picture on the screen until it gets to the Win 10 login screen, so I am unable to access the BIOS.
> 
> 2. Playing COD, my audio is cutting in and out. Didn't happen with my Yamaha CX-A5000
> 
> Video Card is an AMD FuryX. Audio is via AMD High Def Audio Device


1. This is probably because your bios is set to auto or intergrated graphics as primary GPU, so it doesn't display anything until Fury is detected by os.

Not sure about item 2. If you don't have an issue with the sound when watching a movie then it might be to do with Windows audio settings not being setup correctly for non bitstreamed audio. (e.g. sending out 16bit audio or too high a sampling rate).


----------



## dweltman

AVfile said:


> That and no longer made in Canada as an analog preamp first.
> 
> It's an MRX without amps, better ADC and balanced outputs added.




Kind of makes you wonder how the AVM60 will stack up against a D2V on the audio side? Is the D2V a product anyone would want to purchase anymore? If a D3 (if we ever see one) doesn't include video processing, what will its price point be?


----------



## gerard1meehan

In the end the video processing is more important to me than the “3d” audio. But if it’s truly going to be their Flagship processor than it really has to include the Video, and the new 3D audio. There is a significant amount of “legacy” inputs on the back of this unit. But if you are going to rearrange the real-estate on the back of the unit that means redoing established boards, so almost a new unit.


I'd be up for either providing they provide original owners an upgrade "assist"


----------



## gerard1meehan

In the end the video processing is more important to me than the “3d” audio. But if it’s truly going to be their Flagship processor than it really has to include the Video, and the new 3D audio. There is a significant amount of “legacy” inputs on the back of this unit. But if you are going to rearrange the real-estate on the back of the unit that means redoing established boards, so almost a new unit.


I'd be up for either providing they provide original owners an upgrade "assist"


----------



## stanger89

gerard1meehan said:


> In the end the video processing is more important to me than the “3d” audio. But if it’s truly going to be their Flagship processor than it really has to include the Video, and the new 3D audio.


The problem IMO, is that they don't include flagship video processing. That's my biggest gripe with my AVM50V. I was forced to pay an enormous premium for video processing, and it wasn't even flagship-class. Sure they use good components, but video is just not Anthem's forte and it shows. I ended up getting a Lumagen Radiance XE anyway. Despite them using the same Genum chip inside, they're just not remotely on the same level. Not only is the video quality better through the Lumagen, but the features and flexibility just obliterate Anthem's offering. 

And on top of all that, the Lumagen was likely cheaper than the video processor surcharge of the 50V.

I'd much rather have a video processor-less Anthem with a Lumagen Radiance Pro than any in-house Anthem video processor.


----------



## gerard1meehan

stanger89 said:


> The problem IMO, is that they don't include flagship video processing. That's my biggest gripe with my AVM50V. I was forced to pay an enormous premium for video processing, and it wasn't even flagship-class. Sure they use good components, but video is just not Anthem's forte and it shows. I ended up getting a Lumagen Radiance XE anyway. Despite them using the same Genum chip inside, they're just not remotely on the same level. Not only is the video quality better through the Lumagen, but the features and flexibility just obliterate Anthem's offering.
> 
> And on top of all that, the Lumagen was likely cheaper than the video processor surcharge of the 50V.
> 
> I'd much rather have a video processor-less Anthem with a Lumagen Radiance Pro than any in-house Anthem video processor.


An interesting perspective. The processing in the Anthem was, and is better than anything I had experienced in house. But I'm still waiting to upgrade to projection so the Anthem's 'week spots" are not so prevalent to my eyes. (although it would be nice to try the Lumagen!!) I've been putting more resources into my Two Channel sources and the D2V handles those very well IMO. 

The tough part is everyone's "silver bullet" is different from the others. It will be interesting what direction they choose to go.


----------



## gerard1meehan

stanger89 said:


> The problem IMO, is that they don't include flagship video processing. That's my biggest gripe with my AVM50V. I was forced to pay an enormous premium for video processing, and it wasn't even flagship-class. Sure they use good components, but video is just not Anthem's forte and it shows. I ended up getting a Lumagen Radiance XE anyway. Despite them using the same Genum chip inside, they're just not remotely on the same level. Not only is the video quality better through the Lumagen, but the features and flexibility just obliterate Anthem's offering.
> 
> And on top of all that, the Lumagen was likely cheaper than the video processor surcharge of the 50V.
> 
> I'd much rather have a video processor-less Anthem with a Lumagen Radiance Pro than any in-house Anthem video processor.


An interesting perspective. The processing in the Anthem was, and is better than anything I had experienced in house. But I'm still waiting to upgrade to projection so the Anthem's 'week spots" are not so prevalent to my eyes. (although it would be nice to try the Lumagen!!) I've been putting more resources into my Two Channel sources and the D2V handles those very well IMO. 

The tough part is everyone's "silver bullet" is different from the others. It will be interesting what direction they choose to go.


----------



## stanger89

gerard1meehan said:


> An interesting perspective. The processing in the Anthem was, and is better than anything I had experienced in house.


Don't get me wrong, it's not bad by any means. That said, I had an AVM 20V2, I upgraded to an AVM50V. The 50V was over $3000 more. Now granted there were new features (ARC, audio decoding), but that's still more expensive than the Radiance XE I later added. Even if we go with just the difference between the AVM50V and AVM 40, that's a price difference of about $2000, which is still more than the cost of a Radiance Mini.

When I added the Lumagen it was a noticable (if subtle) improvement in just the scaling, but then you add all the features of the Lumagen, like 125 point 3D LUT calibration, completely configurable aspect ratio control (no lack of horizontal squeeze, for example) and it's just no contest. To give you an idea, the 50V's video processor manual covers 10 pages, the Lumagen's manual is 48, almost five times the size.

Anthem's video processor settings/configurability is rudimentary at best. If you've just got a 16:9 TV, you probably wouldn't run into these things but when you've got a more advance projection setup (with anamorphic lens and scope screen) you run into walls pretty quickly with what Anthem provides.

I guess what I'm getting at, is if I'm going to pay a $2000+ premium for integrated video processing, it needs to be on par with what I can get externally for a similar cost. I was glad to see the AVM60 doesn't have video processing included for that very reason.


----------



## sfm

stanger89 said:


> Don't get me wrong, it's not bad by any means. That said, I had an AVM 20V2, I upgraded to an AVM50V. The 50V was over $3000 more....
> I guess what I'm getting at, is if I'm going to pay a $2000+ premium for integrated video processing, it needs to be on par with what I can get externally for a similar cost. I was glad to see the AVM60 doesn't have video processing included for that very reason.


Agreed... I have an AVM 60 on order (to be delivered this week) to replace my aging D2 (originally purchased in 2006)... I recently installed a couple of ceiling speakers so I now have a 5.1.2 speaker configuration in my small dedicated theater and wanted a Atmos capable pre/pro with no video processing (with a price point south of 4K) as I already have a Lumagen 2020 doing all of that work. The Marantz 8802 certainly is a cadidate but its lack of input configuration flexibility (as compared to Anthem designs) just kept me away. Much to my surprise, along came the AVM 60 that fits the bill (at least on paper). Hopefully the audio won't be compromised too much as compared to the D2.


----------



## Nick @ Anthem

stanger89 said:


> I guess what I'm getting at, is if I'm going to pay a $2000+ premium for integrated video processing, it needs to be on par with what I can get externally for a similar cost. I was glad to see the AVM60 doesn't have video processing included for that very reason.


AVM 40: $3699
AVM 50: $4699

= $1K difference, and the AVM 40 was short-lived because hardly anyone bought it. Eight years later, the AVM 60 has a video processor but since the chip can't upscale to 4K60 it's only used to generate on-screen graphics.


----------



## stanger89

sfm said:


> Agreed... I have an AVM 60 on order (to be delivered this week) to replace my aging D2 (originally purchased in 2006)...


Yeah, I keep waffling on how bad I want Atmos and if the 60+amplification would really do me any good over an MRX1120 since I run a full Klipsch setup which barely needs any power at al.



Nick @ Anthem said:


> AVM 40: $3699
> AVM 50: $4699
> 
> = $1K difference, and the AVM 40 was short-lived because hardly anyone bought it. Eight years later, the AVM 60 has a video processor but since the chip can't upscale to 4K60 it's only used to generate on-screen graphics.


Thanks for the info, I was thinking of the 50V which was at least $5999 when I bought it and it's $6499 now. And I assume that since the AVM60's VP isn't used for video that it's not of the same caliber as that in the 50V. Regardless my point stands, I much prefer Anthem to focus on what they do best (Audio) and save me some money to give to someone else who's forte is video (like Lumagen). Absolutely no offense to Anthem, but I don't think Anthem would match a Lumagen Radiance Pro with an integrated video processing solution, there's just no the expertise or motivation there.


----------



## leeshanok

RobDec said:


> Hi
> Been researching new amps for my D2v 3D. Considering Anthem A5 and A2. How do these amps do with the D2v 3D? I also have B&W 804n fronts and 805n surrounds and rears, and an HTM center. Also considering Parasound A51 and A21. But am leaning on the A5 and A2 combo because I have the Anthem processor.
> Ill be replacing Krell Kav 250a amps.
> 
> Thank you
> Rob


I had both the A5, A51 and A21 with Studio 100s. The A5 was too bright for me. Preferred the A51 and A21.


----------



## RobDec

Thanks Leeshanok
Ive been going back and forth between the A5 & A2 combo or the A51 & A21. Been given a decent offer for the Parasounds. And I like a warmer sound Decisions, Decisions, Decisions...

Rob


----------



## yacht422

RobDec said:


> Thanks Leeshanok
> Ive been going back and forth between the A5 & A2 combo or the A51 & A21. Been given a decent offer for the Parasounds. And I like a warmer sound Decisions, Decisions, Decisions...
> 
> Rob


look into the P-5
It is a powerful beast, driving my hard to drive Revel Salons.
very happy with the choice.
and it is Anthem, so agrees with the other components.
never an easy choice, for certain, with so many options available.
walt


----------



## RobDec

Thanks yacht422
Id love to get an P5 and P2 combo. I heard some very good things about them, but its over my budget.

Thanks again for the info!
Rob


----------



## gerard1meehan

RobDec said:


> Thanks yacht422
> Id love to get an P5 and P2 combo. I heard some very good things about them, but its over my budget.
> 
> Thanks again for the info!
> Rob


I am using a the P series with my D2v and Signature speakers and since they are the same family they play very well together.

You do see them come up on Audiogon (there is one now along with an A). Perhaps used is a way to go as one of my P2's is a used unit and its great. No worries.


----------



## gerard1meehan

RobDec said:


> Thanks yacht422
> Id love to get an P5 and P2 combo. I heard some very good things about them, but its over my budget.
> 
> Thanks again for the info!
> Rob


I am using a the P series with my D2v and Signature speakers and since they are the same family they play very well together.

You do see them come up on Audiogon (there is one now along with an A). Perhaps used is a way to go as one of my P2's is a used unit and its great. No worries.


----------



## Ricky

...


----------



## RobDec

Thanks Gerard
Im going to have to think about a used amp. I generally just deal with new products. Thank you for the Heads-up!
Rob


----------



## Kevin. W

Have a question about ARC. Before I run it do I set my Speaker Size, crossover and distance before running?

On the video side I have a OLED should I pick 4:4:4 or 4:2:2


----------



## MitchPope

Kevin. W said:


> Have a question about ARC. Before I run it do I set my Speaker Size, crossover and distance before running?
> 
> On the video side I have a OLED should I pick 4:4:4 or 4:2:2


ARC will pick speaker size and crossovers based on the test results, you just have to set the distances after it finishes. If you have a serious subwoofer, you may want to set it to Flat in the Targets.

You should look at your TV thread for the colour space question, just send it what it likes to minimize conversions.


----------



## gcobb22

Hi all. Has anyone had the opportunity to compare the audio sections of a D2 or D2v with the new Avm-60? I'm talking about utilizing the dac with arc implemented. I'm very curious & plan on borrowing one from my dealer to see but have not had the chance yet. I'm also very curious as to whether or not there will be a Statement version in the future, no matter how far out it may be.
Anyone? Thanks


----------



## dweltman

gcobb22 said:


> Hi all. Has anyone had the opportunity to compare the audio sections of a D2 or D2v with the new Avm-60? I'm talking about utilizing the dac with arc implemented. I'm very curious & plan on borrowing one from my dealer to see but have not had the chance yet. I'm also very curious as to whether or not there will be a Statement version in the future, no matter how far out it may be.
> Anyone? Thanks


Good question! I hope someone will weigh in on this.


----------



## madhuski

What serial adapter are you using?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ismael Algarin Diaz said:


> My laptop does not find "a valid processor" while running ARC software on the AVM 50. I even talked to the Anthem techs and tried everything the told me, and I haven't been successful. I tried a different laptop running Widows Vista, multiple USBs, changing baud rates everywhere, no success. I will appreciate any advice you can provide.
> 
> Note: This old beast makes my PS4 a mythological creature! I can't wait when I am able to ARC it!


Which version of ARC are you trying to use? It should be v3.0.2. If you installed ARC from the original install CD for the AVM 50, it is almost certainly an outdated version.

If you've got the wrong version installed, use Windows Add/Remove programs to delete it, download the v3.0.2 installer from the Anthem web site, and install the correct version.

Now also go into Windows > Program Files and find the Anthem folder where the -- CORRECT -- ARC application has been installed. There should also be a couple files in there with names made up of numbers. The numbers are the serial number of your AVM 50 and the serial number of your ARC mic. These are the individual mic calibration file for your mic and your ARC license. If they are missing you can get them -- and just them -- from your original ARC install CD. If you don't have that CD, Anthem tech support can email you the files you need.

If using a USB to serial adapter, the one you should be using is the Keyspan by Tripplite USA-19HS adapter. Go to the Tripplite site and check that the driver version you have is the latest version for your particular flavor of Windows. Note that a very common problem is that the USB plug comes loose either at the computer end or at the adapter. In addition, the serial cable should be screwed down both at the adapter and at the back of the AVM 50, not just plugged in.

The serial cable needs to be a "straight through" 9 pin cable: Pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9. You can get messed up if you have accidentally grabbed the identical looking "null modem" serial cable which has one pair of pins swapped.
--Bob


----------



## tranle

Ismael Algarin Diaz said:


> I am using the Keyspan Tripplite HS19. I am using the DB9 cable. I am able to update the firmware, even to do backups. The problem comes when I try to run ARC, it doesn't detect the processor. I have the V3.02 Arc.


You also need to have the microphone calibration file XXXAnthem.cal in the installation directory.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Just to ask the obvious, are you sure your AVM 50 is ARC-capable? The original AVM 50 units, unlike the original Statement D2 units, can not be used with ARC without first installing a hardware upgrade -- a replacement DSP board.

Another common reason for failure is that the firmware for the AVM 50 has to be re-installed after the replacement DSP board is installed to properly activate the board.
--Bob


----------



## Kevin. W

Anyone use shortening plugs on the RCA inputs of the AVM 50


----------



## madhuski

What serial adapter are people using? I have the tripplite, but it doesn't want to fit on the back of the D2v (The plastic case of the seroial adapter hits the RCA input below the serial adapter on the Anthem). I have to take it out of its plastic shell to connect.


----------



## Kevin. W

madhuski said:


> What serial adapter are people using? I have the tripplite, but it doesn't want to fit on the back of the D2v (The plastic case of the seroial adapter hits the RCA input below the serial adapter on the Anthem). I have to take it out of its plastic shell to connect.


Use a serial cable to connect between the D2v and adapter.


----------



## fuzzybk

Kevin. W said:


> Anyone use shortening plugs on the RCA inputs of the AVM 50


I have Cardas rca caps for all the rca inputs I am not using on my AVM50v. Don't think they made a difference in sound quality but they do keep the dust away. Lol. I remember being told by someone not to use shorting pins on an Anthem processor for whatever reason.


----------



## cargen

*New AVM 60 or used D2v2 3D at $3,000*

Presently I own a D2, upgraded from a D1.

In the AVM 60, I like the new HDMI 2.0a and other new features of the AVM 60, but I don't want to sacrifice any of the excellent AUDIO quality of the Anthem Statement D2 and up. I over 80 multichannel SACD's. Currently, my video display is a 10+ year old Sony Qualia 006, which I want to replace this year or next with a 4K Ultra HDR display.

I have a 7.2 speaker system, which I'm in no hurry to upgrade to 11.2.

I'm trying to decide between a new AVM 60 and a used Statement D2v23D at the same $3K price point.

Which should I choose?


----------



## cargen

*New AVM 60 or used D2v2 3D at $3,000 ???*

Presently I own a D2 with ARC, upgraded from a D1 (technically a D1-HD) purchased back in 2004, upgraded in 2006.

In the AVM 60, I like the new HDMI 2.0a and other new features of the AVM 60, but I don't want to sacrifice any of the excellent AUDIO quality of the Anthem Statement D2 and up. I over 80 multichannel SACD's. Currently, my video display is a 10+ year old Sony Qualia 006, which I want to replace this year or next with a 4K Ultra HDR display.

I have a 7.2 speaker system, which I'm in no hurry to upgrade to 11.2.

I'm trying to decide between a new AVM 60 and a used Statement D2v23D at the same $3K price point.

Which should I choose?


----------



## AVfile

cargen said:


> Presently I own a D2 with ARC, upgraded from a D1 (technically a D1-HD) purchased back in 2004, upgraded in 2006.
> 
> 
> 
> In the AVM 60, I like the new HDMI 2.0a and other new features of the AVM 60, but I don't want to sacrifice any of the excellent AUDIO quality of the Anthem Statement D2 and up. I over 80 multichannel SACD's. Currently, my video display is a 10+ year old Sony Qualia 006, which I want to replace this year or next with a 4K Ultra HDR display.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 7.2 speaker system, which I'm in no hurry to upgrade to 11.2.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to decide between a new AVM 60 and a used Statement D2v23D at the same $3K price point.
> 
> 
> 
> Which should I choose?



I understand your dilemma. If it was me I would go for the Canadian made D2v but I'm a sucker for build quality and other intangibles. It would be an upgrade for you too. 

One route you could go is buy the AVM-60 and see how it compares to your D2. If you don't like it, you could easily flip it - they are in hot demand - and then buy the D2v. If you like it then you could leave it at that. 

Also let us know!


----------



## madhuski

cargen said:


> Presently I own a D2 with ARC, upgraded from a D1 (technically a D1-HD) purchased back in 2004, upgraded in 2006.
> 
> In the AVM 60, I like the new HDMI 2.0a and other new features of the AVM 60, but I don't want to sacrifice any of the excellent AUDIO quality of the Anthem Statement D2 and up. I over 80 multichannel SACD's. Currently, my video display is a 10+ year old Sony Qualia 006, which I want to replace this year or next with a 4K Ultra HDR display.
> 
> I have a 7.2 speaker system, which I'm in no hurry to upgrade to 11.2.
> 
> I'm trying to decide between a new AVM 60 and a used Statement D2v23D at the same $3K price point.
> 
> Which should I choose?


I don't think Anthem has an offical position yet on the AVM 60 versus the D2v (or at least haven't responded to any inquiry i've made either on the forums here, or via email to them. I suppose I could call them....)

From what I can gather from various responses on the web is that SQ wise, the AVM 60 should be indistinguishable from the MRX-X10 line. If you have no foreseeable need for Atmos or UHD, then no compelling reason to get the AVM-60.


----------



## stanger89

madhuski said:


> From what I can gather from various responses on the web is that SQ wise, the AVM 60 should be indistinguishable from the MRX-X10 line. If you have no foreseeable need for Atmos or UHD, then no compelling reason to get the AVM-60.


That should be the MRX-x20 line, I don't recall seeing comments about the x10 line, but I believe the x20 line is a bit different.


----------



## madhuski

stanger89 said:


> That should be the MRX-x20 line, I don't recall seeing comments about the x10 line, but I believe the x20 line is a bit different.


FWIW, I was looking for advice wether I would notice a change going from a MRX-710 to an AVM-60 if I were not doing Atmos, and the general advice given was I would not.


----------



## Kevin. W

ANyone notice a increase in hiss coming from their speakers when the AVM50v 3D is on over when its off and just the amp on? I ear has to be within a foot or so to hear it but the increase is there when the unit is on. Compared to my Yamaha CX-A5000 that made no difference in hiss level when on. My only hook ups are HDMI, XLR and Sub


----------



## AVfile

Kevin. W said:


> ANyone notice a increase in hiss coming from their speakers when the AVM50v 3D is on over when its off and just the amp on? I ear has to be within a foot or so to hear it but the increase is there when the unit is on. Compared to my Yamaha CX-A5000 that made no difference in hiss level when on. My only hook ups are HDMI, XLR and Sub



Yes, mine has always been like that. The hiss was mentioned here a few years back, and some people confirmed hearing it and others denied it.


----------



## Kevin. W

Anything can be done to minimize the hiss?


----------



## AVfile

Kevin. W said:


> Anything can be done to minimize the hiss?



Not this type of hiss, no.


----------



## madhuski

cargen said:


> Presently I own a D2 with ARC, upgraded from a D1 (technically a D1-HD) purchased back in 2004, upgraded in 2006.
> 
> In the AVM 60, I like the new HDMI 2.0a and other new features of the AVM 60, but I don't want to sacrifice any of the excellent AUDIO quality of the Anthem Statement D2 and up. I over 80 multichannel SACD's. Currently, my video display is a 10+ year old Sony Qualia 006, which I want to replace this year or next with a 4K Ultra HDR display.
> 
> I have a 7.2 speaker system, which I'm in no hurry to upgrade to 11.2.
> 
> I'm trying to decide between a new AVM 60 and a used Statement D2v23D at the same $3K price point.
> 
> Which should I choose?




Have you made any headway to getting an answer? I'm curious myself


----------



## MitchPope

I just picked up a D2v to replace my D2. I am hoping that by the time I replace my Kuro with an OLED, they will have a D2v 4K upgrade instead of a D3.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## madhuski

so would a potential 4k upgrade again be a simple matter of swapping out an HDMI board like the 3d upgrade?


----------



## stanger89

Possibly, but you'd only get passthrough, no video processing and no Atmos/DTS:X with such a solution.


----------



## bekindrewind

New problem video drops out for me, maybe others somewhere in this tread?

When watching Oppo blu-ray, recorded program on Tivo or live show through Tivo, intermittant problem, the video will drop out, but not the audio. If I switch to another source on the D2v, then back to the source I was using, the video will come back, plus sound. Firmware is 3.09.

I had a problem with watching some blu-rays some months back, was recommended I upgrade the D2v firmware. I did. 
Now I have this video dropping out problem. Coincidence?

Thought it maybe a hdmi handshake issue, except it's happeing to 2 sources, Oppo, Tivo.

Again, intermittant problem. Maybe watching a source for 10min or 1hr, then lose video not audio.

Hopeful of a simple, try this to fix it reply.


----------



## cargen

I read in a review that the only physical way to tell the difference between a D2v and a D2v 3D is to check the front display during power-up or by pressing the status button. A D2v2 3D displays "STATEMENT D2v 3D A/V PROCESSOR". 

So my question is: is that true only for New-from-the-factory D2v 3D's or is the same true for a D2v that has been later upgraded with a 3D upgrade board kit? 

Stated differently, does a D2v that has been later upgraded to 3D display "STATEMENT D2v 3D A/V PROCESSOR" when the Status button is pressed?


----------



## cargen

*D2v v AVM 60 re; AUDIO quality*



madhuski said:


> Have you made any headway to getting an answer? I'm curious myself


I sent my 10+ year old Anthem A5 back to Paradigm for repair and just this week received it back after a $350 repair in a very reasonable 4 weeks door-to-door. While paying for the repair via credit card over the phone, I quizzed the Paradigm tech rep with my question re: AVM60 v D2v, specifically has to which has better AUDIO. In his opinion, if Audio is my primary concern, especially SACD, that I would experience a significant reduction in Audio performance with the AVM 60 compared to the D2v. His opinion was that the D2v has better audio components, assembly in Canada vs. Vietnam etc. Only one man's unofficial opinion of course. Audio being my priority, I chose the D2v route.

I must say I am surprised how Anthem feels it can still be "credible" promoting its D2v 3D on its web site @ $9,499 without/unless it offers any prospective purchaser an upgrade path to equal the HDMI 2.0a and other more advanced features that its new $2,999 AVM 60 provides. I hope that Anthem does eventually offer a board upgrade path for D2v owners similar to the 3D board upgrade option, but I'm not holding my breath. More likely they'll do a D3 with 11 or more channels. But I hope they do both.


----------



## cvinfig

cargen said:


> Stated differently, does a D2v that has been later upgraded to 3D display "STATEMENT D2v 3D A/V PROCESSOR" when the Status button is pressed?


Yes.


----------



## madhuski

cargen said:


> I sent my 10+ year old Anthem A5 back to Paradigm for repair and just this week received it back after a $350 repair in a very reasonable 4 weeks door-to-door. While paying for the repair via credit card over the phone, I quizzed the Paradigm tech rep with my question re: AVM60 v D2v, specifically has to which has better AUDIO. In his opinion, if Audio is my primary concern, especially SACD, that I would experience a significant reduction in Audio performance with the AVM 60 compared to the D2v. His opinion was that the D2v has better audio components, assembly in Canada vs. Vietnam etc. Only one man's unofficial opinion of course. Audio being my priority, I chose the D2v route.
> 
> I must say I am surprised how Anthem feels it can still be "credible" promoting its D2v 3D on its web site @ $9,499 without/unless it offers any prospective purchaser an upgrade path to equal the HDMI 2.0a and other more advanced features that its new $2,999 AVM 60 provides. I hope that Anthem does eventually offer a board upgrade path for D2v owners similar to the 3D board upgrade option, but I'm not holding my breath. More likely they'll do a D3 with 11 or more channels. But I hope they do both.



Thanks for the info. 

I also wish Anthem would do a firmware upgrade improving that OSD and setup screen, but I guess not enough computing horsepower.

Re: your d2v3d display question: as cvinfig noted, a upgraded d2v will display d2v3d, but only after the firmware is updated to 3.1


----------



## Kevin. W

cargen said:


> I sent my 10+ year old Anthem A5 back to Paradigm for repair and just this week received it back after a $350 repair in a very reasonable 4 weeks door-to-door. While paying for the repair via credit card over the phone, I quizzed the Paradigm tech rep with my question re: AVM60 v D2v, specifically has to which has better AUDIO. In his opinion, if Audio is my primary concern, especially SACD, that I would experience a significant reduction in Audio performance with the AVM 60 compared to the D2v. His opinion was that the D2v has better audio components, assembly in Canada vs. Vietnam etc. Only one man's unofficial opinion of course. Audio being my priority, I chose the D2v route.
> 
> I must say I am surprised how Anthem feels it can still be "credible" promoting its D2v 3D on its web site @ $9,499 without/unless it offers any prospective purchaser an upgrade path to equal the HDMI 2.0a and other more advanced features that its new $2,999 AVM 60 provides. I hope that Anthem does eventually offer a board upgrade path for D2v owners similar to the 3D board upgrade option, but I'm not holding my breath. More likely they'll do a D3 with 11 or more channels. But I hope they do both.


I emailed Anthem to see if they would upgrade the AVM50v3D to a new board with 4k pass through. Answer was "NO"


----------



## DenonAVFreak

*Anthem D2v triggers and IR teminal block questions*



thestewman said:


> Good to go ! Attach all 3 amps to Trigger 3 on the Anthem . I believe it says 200mA max.
> Next. The triggers will not work until you have gone into the Anthem setup and turned on the triggers. Check the manual so you get an understanding of the chart that appears in the setup. And don't forget to save your settings before you exit the setup area.
> 
> 
> 
> Stew



I have searched the forum on my questions - this was the closest I could come to an answer. It's in the ballpark but not quite it. : 
I am trying to set up a switched power strip that will come on and go off with the D2v power. I have two possible scenarios I’d like to try. Which of the two would be best, so as not to create any issues?



Run 2 wires from the 12V power (+) and ground(-) terminals on the D2v IR terminal block to the (+) and (-) terminals on theIOT power strip relay terminal block to see if the IOT switch is activated and deactivated when the D2V is powered on and off respectively. If the IOT relay switch works properly in this way I’ll then plug my power strip into the relay switch and my peripherals into the power strip making sure not to overload the capacity of either the relay switch or the power strip.
My question on this scenario is: On the Anthem D2v are the12V supply terminals (“12V” and “ground”) on the IR terminal block switched –meaning are they energized/de-energized when the D2v is powered on and off, or is power constantly available to these terminals since they are for IR controllers which are generally used to operate (turn on and off) the D2v?


Alternately I could try the following:



Since I do not have a mono cable but have MANY 3.5 mm stereo cables, cut off one end of the 3.5mm stereo cable and try using it to plug in the D2v 12v trigger port #2 (50mA). From the cable I’d connect the shield (bare) wire to the (-) and twist together the red and white (R/L) positive (+) wires and connect these to the(+) of the IOT relay switch to see if that works 
My question on this scenario is: Will a stereo 1/8 inch (3.5mm) cable work in the D2v trigger port without issue or must I find a mono cable?


I realize I could simply try both approaches and see if one or both work but I’d prefer not to harm anything with “random” experimentation. Any help is greatly appreciated - Thanks!


----------



## leeshanok

MitchPope said:


> I just picked up a D2v to replace my D2. I am hoping that by the time I replace my Kuro with an OLED, they will have a D2v 4K upgrade instead of a D3.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Would be interesting to know if you hear a marked difference in 2-ch direct audio between the D2 and D2v.


----------



## MitchPope

It should be here on Thursday or Friday, I am interested as well. I don't expect one, but don't mind being pleasantly surprised. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## thestewman

DenonAVFreak said:


> I have searched the forum on my questions - this was the closest I could come to an answer. It's in the ballpark but not quite it. : ]I am trying to set up a switched power strip that will come on and go off with the D2v power. I have two possible scenarios I’d like to try. Which of the two would be best, so as not to create any issues?
> 
> Run 2 wires from the 12V power (+) and ground(-) terminals on the D2v IR terminal block to the (+) and (-) terminals on theIOT power strip relay terminal block to see if the IOT switch is activated and deactivated when the D2V is powered on and off respectively. If the IOT relay switch works properly in this way I’ll then plug my power strip into the relay switch and my peripherals into the power strip making sure not to overload the capacity of either the relay switch or the power strip.



The IR 12v connection is to be used only to power IR sensors not switching devices
You use the 12v trigger setup in the Setup Menu to turn your devices ON or OFF by either selecting Power which turns them ALL on and off with the D2 or by selecting an individual source which then turns the device on or off when you select that source




DenonAVFreak said:


> My question on this scenario is: On the Anthem D2v are the12V supply terminals (“12V” and “ground”) on the IR terminal block switched –meaning are they energized/de-energized when the D2v is powered on and off, or is power constantly available to these terminals since they are for IR controllers which are generally used to operate (turn on and off) the D2v?



The IR 12v connection is to be used only to power IR sensors not switching devices




DenonAVFreak said:


> Since I do not have a mono cable but have MANY 3.5 mm stereo cables, cut off one end of the 3.5mm stereo cable and try using it to plug in the D2v 12v trigger port #2 (50mA). From the cable I’d connect the shield (bare) wire to the (-) and twist together the red and white (R/L) positive (+) wires and connect these to the(+) of the IOT relay switch to see if that works


Your connection method by cutting the one end of the cable is correct 
But you need a MONO plug. You may short out the terminal strip using a stereo plug



DenonAVFreak said:


> My question on this scenario is: Will a stereo 1/8 inch (3.5mm) cable work in the D2v trigger port without issue or must I find a mono cable?


The manual states you need a MONO plug. You may short out the terminal strip using a stereo plug




DenonAVFreak said:


> I realize I could simply try both approaches and see if one or both work but I’d prefer not to harm anything with “random” experimentation. Any help is greatly appreciated - Thanks!


----------



## bekindrewind

bekindrewind said:


> New problem video drops out for me, maybe others somewhere in this tread?
> 
> When watching Oppo blu-ray, recorded program on Tivo or live show through Tivo, intermittant problem, the video will drop out, but not the audio. If I switch to another source on the D2v, then back to the source I was using, the video will come back, plus sound. Firmware is 3.09.
> 
> I had a problem with watching some blu-rays some months back, was recommended I upgrade the D2v firmware. I did.
> Now I have this video dropping out problem. Coincidence?
> 
> Thought it maybe a hdmi handshake issue, except it's happeing to 2 sources, Oppo, Tivo.
> 
> Again, intermittant problem. Maybe watching a source for 10min or 1hr, then lose video not audio.
> 
> Hopeful of a simple, try this to fix it reply.


I feel so alone... 
Anyone? 
Bob? (you know you're my hero)


----------



## thestewman

bekindrewind said:


> I feel so alone...
> Anyone?
> Bob? (you know you're my hero)


Not Bob

Describe your all connections.
Each Device to D2 
This sounds like it might be a HDMI cable issue


----------



## bekindrewind

thestewman said:


> Not Bob
> 
> Describe your all connections.
> Each Device to D2
> This sounds like it might be a HDMI cable issue


Hi thestewman, thanks for chiming in.

Oppo direct to D2v, Monoprice Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology
Tivo direct to D2v, Monoprice Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology
D2v direct to Sharp Elite TV, Monoprice Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology
McIntosh MC205 amp XLR cables to D2v

As mentioned, have video and audio, then video drops, audio stays.
It's my understanding that if it were an HDMI issue, I'd loose both. HMDI either works or it doesn't.


----------



## Ellebob

Do you have any short non-active cables to test the system? You could only lose video, you wouldn't necessarily lose both it depends on the problem. The HDMI cables are quite possibly the problem, there have been a lot of problems with the Redmere 18gbs technology but manufacturers are still selling them. They have had a very poor yield rate for cables that actually pass a full 18gbs signal.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

bekindrewind said:


> Hi thestewman, thanks for chiming in.
> 
> Oppo direct to D2v, Monoprice Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology
> Tivo direct to D2v, Monoprice Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology
> D2v direct to Sharp Elite TV, Monoprice Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology
> McIntosh MC205 amp XLR cables to D2v
> 
> As mentioned, have video and audio, then video drops, audio stays.
> It's my understanding that if it were an HDMI issue, I'd loose both. HMDI either works or it doesn't.


It sounds like your setup is failing the copy protection check which happens periodically (every 10 minutes or so) in the background. Normally you don't know that it is happening, but if the check fails than an HDMI retry gets started and things get muted while that is happening. That could mean loss of either audio or video or both depending on where in your HDMI chain things are failing. Usually a retry will restore the signal in a matter of a few seconds. But if video is not coming back even if you wait, then that's a nastier problem.

I'd say the first thing to try is to simply reseat every HDMI plug in your setup -- both ends of each cable. Pull the plug and put it back in. Make sure it is fully inserted straight into the socket and that nothing (e.g., cable weight or kinks in the cable) is tugging it in any direction. If you have a plug that's being tugged, try supporting the cable near the plug. HDMI is only a friction fit, and it just takes a small shift of plug in socket to screw things up. Since you are just losing video, the logical place to check is the cable between the D2v and your TV, but HDMI is an end to end protocol so any cable in the signal path could be the culprit.

Also, since you are using the Redmere cables, double check that you have them all plugged in the right way around. Redmere is directional. You need to have the correct choice of plug at the source end and the destination end.
--Bob


----------



## bekindrewind

Hi Bob, as always, thank you.

I'll address the items you've pointed out.
Didn't know about copy protection happening every 10 minutes, do now, thank you.

Is there copy protection on everything? This is happening when watching live tv or recorded programs (from OTA) like Judge Judy through the Tivo. (If only when watching dvd's I'd think of copy protection being the culprit)

I've already made sure the HDMI connections where snug on every item. One of the reasons I went with RedMere was to eliminate the problem of cable weight stressing the HDMI port.

RedMere cables are directional, true, and if inserted the wrong way, they simply do not work. So I can eliminate that from the check list.

Next time it happens, I will change source on the tv, then back to original to see if it's the tv's problem.

One of the reasons I post these "challenges" is in case this happens to others, they might find the solution here, like I'm hopeful for.


----------



## thestewman

bekindrewind said:


> Hi Bob, as always, thank you.
> 
> I'll address the items you've pointed out.
> Didn't know about copy protection happening every 10 minutes, do now, thank you.
> 
> Is there copy protection on everything? This is happening when watching live tv or recorded programs (from OTA) like Judge Judy through the Tivo. (If only when watching dvd's I'd think of copy protection being the culprit)
> 
> I've already made sure the HDMI connections where snug on every item. One of the reasons I went with RedMere was to eliminate the problem of cable weight stressing the HDMI port.
> 
> RedMere cables are directional, true, and if inserted the wrong way, they simply do not work. So I can eliminate that from the check list.
> 
> Next time it happens, I will change source on the tv, then back to original to see if it's the tv's problem.
> 
> One of the reasons I post these "challenges" is in case this happens to others, they might find the solution here, like I'm hopeful for.


Borrow, steal or somehow obtain a regular hi speed HDMI cable and exchange it for the Monoprice cable to the display.

Another test. Bypass the D2v and go direct from the Tivo to the display using one of the alternate inputs. You do not need HDMI 2.0 for the Tivo.
Let us know the results


----------



## Ellebob

Copy protection (HDCP authentication) happens approximately every 2 seconds not 10 minutes.


----------



## AVfile

Kevin. W said:


> I emailed Anthem to see if they would upgrade the AVM50v3D to a new board with 4k pass through. Answer was "NO"



It is likely that such an Anthem-built board would cost 50-60% of the price of an entire AVM-60.


----------



## Ellebob

The term pass through with HDMI does not do what many think. It doesn't bypass the circuitry to the output. That would change impedance and capacitance and likely make the signal unreadable. The signal needs to be repeated and the audio needs to be taken from the signal. This would require newer 18gbs HDMI chips and possibly other processing chips in the D2 to integrate with these chips. If it was practical to do it would probably be expensive, my guess is it is not practical.


----------



## bekindrewind

Ellebob said:


> The HDMI cables are quite possibly the problem, there have been a lot of problems with the Redmere 18gbs technology but manufacturers are still selling them. They have had a very poor yield rate for cables that actually pass a full 18gbs signal.


Have not hear about that. 
1. What problems? 
2. They have had a very poor yield rate for cables that actually pass a full 18gbs signal.
Would you please provide some links to where I can read about both of those points.
Thank you.

PS. I just found this on Monoprices site.
Monoprice sells 2 types of Active High speed HDMI cables it seems. Both have Monoprice stamped on the connector. #1 with RedMere built in and the other, #2 I’ll assume a generic name not mentioned.

#1 …Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology, 10ft Red. (cost $20.61)

#2 …Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable, 10ft Silver. (cost $15.29). The Monoprice Ultra Slim Active High Speed HDMI® Cable series is designed with the thinnest TVs in mind. The small form factor connector heads fit perfectly in tight spaces, while the ultra thin 36AWG cable is more flexible and easier to route. Built into this small package is an active HDMI chipset, which ensures the most reliable signal transmissions to support 4K, 3D, and other bandwidth intensive features.

Think both are equal in quality? 
I bought the RedMere years ago. Monoprice did not offer the other option back then.


----------



## AVfile

This is anecdotal, but Lumagen recommended me to ditch my Redmere style cables:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-vi...n-radiancemini-3d-thread-47.html#post34958089

Depends a lot on your hardware.


----------



## bekindrewind

AVfile said:


> This is anecdotal, but Lumagen recommended me to ditch my Redmere style cables:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-vi...n-radiancemini-3d-thread-47.html#post34958089
> 
> Depends a lot on your hardware.


I recommend you ditch all your gear. Kidding, nice stuff.

I should ditch all my gear and get a retro all in one unit by Soundesign. Ya know from the 70's with the record player on top, 8-track player, silver face plate, cylinder flip toggles, sliders and genuine imitation woodgrain vinyl on mdf side pieces. Who needs RedMere, right. Man I've been overthinking my HT system. KISS, right.


----------



## Ellebob

I recommend giving all your equipment to me


Anyway this is copied from one of my professional forums (not open to public) with HDMI industry gurus. 


"Note: Redmere (Spectra 7) has introduced an 18 Gbps cable (Monoprice is already shipping said cables), however the current failure rate is damn near 100% (they even have issues at 10 Gbps where the older models did not). Currently China mfgrs cannot even get their (purchased from Spectra 7 and expensive) active cable programmers to work, this means that the cable must be sent to Redmere in Ca. for programming and then back to China for terminal over-molding and packaging. even with this the failure rate is "way" not exceptable. There is also no possibility of EDID repair built into this module from Redmere. Be careful for promises."




Current recommendations for HDMI with 18gbs.


5 meter and under a good passive cable.


Up to 15 meters a good passive cable with a signal restorer or an active cable. if you can't change the cable easily I would look at the passive cable with a signal restorer.


over 15 meters fiber optic extenders.


DPL Labs, UL, and HDMI will have cable certifications for 18gbs. I don't think HDMI and UL have their program up and running yet. DPL is available and their testing is more stringent than the 18gbs spec. For products that have passed DPL testing look here.
http://www.dpllabs.com/page/dpl-approved-products


If you don't have HDMI test equipment, test the system with short 2m or less passive cables. Although some shorter cables have problems with 18gbs it is less likely. If the system works with short cables and not with longer ones you have a cable problem. Swapping cables between devices or bypassing devices is not the way to diagnose an HDMI system. There is a lot going on with HDMI especially when dealing with repeaters (anything between the source and display like receivers, switches, processors, etc.) and the repeaters often get blamed when it is really other issues.


----------



## DenonAVFreak

thestewman said:


> The IR 12v connection is to be used only to power IR sensors not switching devices
> You use the 12v trigger setup in the Setup Menu to turn your devices ON or OFF by either selecting Power which turns them ALL on and off with the D2 or by selecting an individual source which then turns the device on or off when you select that source
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The IR 12v connection is to be used only to power IR sensors not switching devices
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your connection method by cutting the one end of the cable is correct
> But you need a MONO plug. You may short out the terminal strip using a stereo plug
> 
> 
> 
> The manual states you need a MONO plug. You may short out the terminal strip using a stereo plug


I’d like to report my results in case this may be helpful to others. I connected a 1/8 inch (3.5 mm) mono plug to the 12v trigger port #2. The other end was cut off and the shield (bare) wire was connected to the (-) terminal and the core positive wire to the (+) terminal of the IOT relay switch. I enabled trigger 2 in the D2v menu and the IOT switch worked as expected. 

I calculated the current draw of my devices to ensure adequate switch capacity using a web tool. I then plugged my peripherals into the power strip and everything turns on and off with the processor. 

This solution was used to replace a failed and now discontinued XANTECH AC1. I selected the IOT switch over a Niles AC3, and various other “current sensing” power solutions like the Niles CS12V, or the Smart Strip products because the current sensing products I’ve used have worked for a while and then quit working. Using this triggered solution makes certain my devices power cycle with the processor.The IOT switch I used is: http://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2
From Data Loggers. It appears well built and works well. My only gripe is that when it operates there is quite a loud click from it. Otherwise it does just what it’s supposed to do, efficiently and inexpensively.
Thanks


----------



## bekindrewind

Ellebob said:


> I recommend giving all your equipment to me
> 
> Anyway this is copied from one of my professional forums (not open to public) with HDMI industry gurus.
> 
> "Note: Redmere (Spectra 7) has introduced an 18 Gbps cable (Monoprice is already shipping said cables), however the current failure rate is damn near 100% (they even have issues at 10 Gbps where the older models did not). Currently China mfgrs cannot even get their (purchased from Spectra 7 and expensive) active cable programmers to work, this means that the cable must be sent to Redmere in Ca. for programming and then back to China for terminal over-molding and packaging. even with this the failure rate is "way" not exceptable. There is also no possibility of EDID repair built into this module from Redmere. Be careful for promises."
> 
> Current recommendations for HDMI with 18gbs.
> 
> 5 meter and under a good passive cable.
> 
> Up to 15 meters a good passive cable with a signal restorer or an active cable. if you can't change the cable easily I would look at the passive cable with a signal restorer.
> 
> over 15 meters fiber optic extenders.
> 
> DPL Labs, UL, and HDMI will have cable certifications for 18gbs. I don't think HDMI and UL have their program up and running yet. DPL is available and their testing is more stringent than the 18gbs spec. For products that have passed DPL testing look here.
> http://www.dpllabs.com/page/dpl-approved-products
> 
> If you don't have HDMI test equipment, test the system with short 2m or less passive cables. Although some shorter cables have problems with 18gbs it is less likely. If the system works with short cables and not with longer ones you have a cable problem. Swapping cables between devices or bypassing devices is not the way to diagnose an HDMI system. There is a lot going on with HDMI especially when dealing with repeaters (anything between the source and display like receivers, switches, processors, etc.) and the repeaters often get blamed when it is really other issues.


Oh man, that's not instilling confidence in the, my cables are not the problem, scenario.
Ok, you say, I recommend giving all your equipment to me
The only thing I call equipment in my system will now be RedMere HDMI cables. 

Now the jury is still out if my cables are the problem.


----------



## MitchPope

leeshanok said:


> Would be interesting to know if you hear a marked difference in 2-ch direct audio between the D2 and D2v.


So far audio seems the just as good as before, but the video processing in the D2v is way better.


----------



## stanger89

Well that's probably because _there is_ video processing in the D2V. The AVM60 does not process video (other than adding the OSD).


----------



## Shrike645

I thought he was comparing the D2 to the D2v not AVM60.


----------



## stanger89

And theoretically I passed reading class


----------



## mkaye

bekindrewind said:


> New problem video drops out for me, maybe others somewhere in this tread?
> 
> When watching Oppo blu-ray, recorded program on Tivo or live show through Tivo, intermittant problem, the video will drop out, but not the audio. If I switch to another source on the D2v, then back to the source I was using, the video will come back, plus sound. Firmware is 3.09.
> 
> I had a problem with watching some blu-rays some months back, was recommended I upgrade the D2v firmware. I did.
> Now I have this video dropping out problem. Coincidence?
> 
> Thought it maybe a hdmi handshake issue, except it's happeing to 2 sources, Oppo, Tivo.
> 
> Again, intermittant problem. Maybe watching a source for 10min or 1hr, then lose video not audio.
> 
> Hopeful of a simple, try this to fix it reply.


I am having problems with my TiVo also (D2v)
in Netflix, if switching from 1080p to 720p I don't get a picture/audio
if I bypass the D2v to my PJ, works perfectly
if I disable 1080p in TiVo, then it works properly

mark


----------



## bekindrewind

Ellebob said:


> I recommend giving all your equipment to me
> 
> Anyway this is copied from one of my professional forums (not open to public) with HDMI industry gurus.
> 
> "Note: Redmere (Spectra 7) has introduced an 18 Gbps cable (Monoprice is already shipping said cables), however the current failure rate is damn near 100% (they even have issues at 10 Gbps where the older models did not). Currently China mfgrs cannot even get their (purchased from Spectra 7 and expensive) active cable programmers to work, this means that the cable must be sent to Redmere in Ca. for programming and then back to China for terminal over-molding and packaging. even with this the failure rate is "way" not exceptable. There is also no possibility of EDID repair built into this module from Redmere. Be careful for promises."


Ellebob,
True that problem was when Monoprice first brought those to market years ago. Monoprice was aware of it and replaced them. (Google it and found that information). I think that problem has been fixed now. My search for RedMere HDMI cables being sold by various vendors say they are problem free. I think RedMere addressed the problem.


----------



## thestewman

bekindrewind said:


> Ellebob,
> True that problem was when Monoprice first brought those to market years ago. Monoprice was aware of it and replaced them. (Google it and found that information). I think that problem has been fixed now. My search for RedMere HDMI cables being sold by various vendors say they are problem free. I think RedMere addressed the problem.


You maybe correct the Redmere problem may no longer exist. That does not correct your problem. How about getting another set of HDMI cables ? Without or with RedMere. You decide. Current technology in cables may be OK without RedMere unless your cables are 50+ feet. I have older HiSpeed Monoprice cables without RedMere that are 25ft in length . They work perfectly with 4K video and below. 
You may possibly fix your current problem which might be a HDMI cable problem.


----------



## Ellebob

The problem is current with the18gbs chips not years ago. That post quoted was in the last two weeks I talked to one of the industry experts and each company is blaming the other. Redmere says their chips are fine but not being implemented correctly in manufacturing. The cable manufacturer is blaming the chip. Either way they are not working,


----------



## bekindrewind

Ellebob said:


> The problem is current with the18gbs chips not years ago. That post quoted was in the last two weeks I talked to one of the industry experts and each company is blaming the other. Redmere says their chips are fine but not being implemented correctly in manufacturing. The cable manufacturer is blaming the chip. Either way they are not working,


Sorry, but I've spent a lot of time on google researching RedMere HDMI cables and it's not as dooming as you're pointing out.
When I google RedMere Spectra 7 that comes up as 2012. I can't find what post you're talking about that was quoted in the last two weeks about the 18gbs RedMere. I'd like to read it. 

I'm not defending RedMere, but I don't think it's as cut and dry as your eluding to. I've found nothing on the web that backs that up. Where is that post? Maybe you could provide a link or two that elaborates on that, for I can't find it anywhere. Again, not defending RedMere or praising them. Just trying to be more informed.


----------



## bekindrewind

thestewman said:


> You maybe correct the Redmere problem may no longer exist. That does not correct your problem. How about getting another set of HDMI cables ? Without or with RedMere. You decide. Current technology in cables may be OK without RedMere unless your cables are 50+ feet. I have older HiSpeed Monoprice cables without RedMere that are 25ft in length . They work perfectly with 4K video and below.
> You may possibly fix your current problem which might be a HDMI cable problem.


Thank you for that suggestion. I tried it.
I've replaced my RedMere cables with regular HDMI and my intermittant video dropout still happens. NOT the cables. I want it to be a cable fix, easiest and least expensive, but it's not the RedMere's problem.


----------



## Ellebob

bekindrewind said:


> Thank you for that suggestion. I tried it.
> I've replaced my RedMere cables with regular HDMI and my intermittant video dropout still happens. NOT the cables. I want it to be a cable fix, easiest and least expensive, but it's not the RedMere's problem.


How long of cables? Did you test with short cables?


----------



## madhuski

Can anyone opine on how good a measuring tool is "quick measure" using ARC?

Is it as accurate as REW is purported to be?


----------



## Ellebob

You can do 90% of what you need with quick measure compared to REW. It is a powerful tool and can be used for a lot more than just setting distance, levels and EQ.


----------



## bekindrewind

Ellebob said:


> How long of cables? Did you test with short cables?


This what I’m using now.
Mono price 10ft 18Gbps Ultra Slim Series High Performance HDMI Cable w/RedMere Technology
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-18G...1457672735&sr=8-3&keywords=red+mere+hdmi+10ft

This is what I was using before RedMere. Tried these in place of the RedMere, same problem.
Commercial Series Premium High Speed HDMI® Cable, 10ft Black
http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=3662


----------



## thestewman

bekindrewind said:


> Hi thestewman, thanks for chiming in.
> 
> Oppo direct to D2v, Monoprice Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology
> Tivo direct to D2v, Monoprice Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology
> D2v direct to Sharp Elite TV, Monoprice Ultra Slim 18Gbps Active High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology
> McIntosh MC205 amp XLR cables to D2v
> 
> As mentioned, have video and audio, then video drops, audio stays.
> It's my understanding that if it were an HDMI issue, I'd loose both. HMDI either works or it
> doesn't.


Undoubtedly just replacing a cable or two is not going to provide the necessary modification or answer to an allusive video problem.
If I can make this testing suggestion.
Take the D2v out of the viewing process. 
Route an unactive quality HI SPEED HDMI cable of more than 3 feet but less than 15 feet from your Tivo direct to another HDMI input on your Sharp display.
Video dropouts ? No, then the D2v maybe at fault.
With no video dropouts I would continue the test by connecting the Tivo to the D2v with the same unactive HDMI cable brand and replace the D2v to Sharp display HDMI cable with the same brand and length HDMI cable. Viewing results ?
If you get video dropouts I would try one additional change. 
Try a different HDMI display input.


----------



## bekindrewind

Thanks guys for chiming in.
This is like my second job now, what the heck is going on.

Let's say I find a tempermental HDMI cable. 
I'm not going to go back to those heavy, hard to bend, put stress on the HDMI port cables.
I'm using the RedMere cables because they are 18Gbps, flexible and no stress at all on the HDMI ports.
What are you guys using for a high speed non active HDMI cable, that's flexible, thin, no stress on the port.

Just in case it's a cable problem.


----------



## thestewman

bekindrewind said:


> Thanks guys for chiming in.
> This is like my second job now, what the heck is going on.
> 
> Let's say I find a tempermental HDMI cable.
> I'm not going to go back to those heavy, hard to bend, put stress on the HDMI port cables.
> I'm using the RedMere cables because they are 18Gbps, flexible and no stress at all on the HDMI ports.
> What are you guys using for a high speed non active HDMI cable, that's flexible, thin, no stress on the port.
> 
> Just in case it's a cable problem.


Can't say its thin but it is certified HDMI cable.....Bluejeans cable


----------



## Ellebob

bekindrewind said:


> This what I’m using now.
> Mono price 10ft 18Gbps Ultra Slim Series High Performance HDMI Cable w/RedMere Technology
> http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-18G...1457672735&sr=8-3&keywords=red+mere+hdmi+10ft
> 
> This is what I was using before RedMere. Tried these in place of the RedMere, same problem.
> Commercial Series Premium High Speed HDMI® Cable, 10ft Black
> http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=3662



10 feet while is not long is still longer than I would recommend for testing. We are starting to see 1 meter cables fail at 18gbs but those are the cheapies very thin passive cables. Whether you want to believe it or not Redmere is having problems with their 18gbs chips. Other active technologies are having success. I suggest testing with 6 foot or less decent cables. I do this to find out if the problem is the cable or the equipment. Typically, I find the cable is often the problem at longer lengths. At 10 feet it less likely the cable especially for 1080P which is about 4.5gbs and not even 10.2gbs. HDMI is fun


----------



## stanger89

Ellebob said:


> 10 feet while is not long is still longer than I would recommend for testing. We are starting to see 1 meter cables fail at 18gbs but those are the cheapies very thin passive cables. Whether you want to believe it or not Redmere is having problems with their 18gbs chips. Other active technologies are having success. I suggest testing with 6 foot or less decent cables. I do this to find out if the problem is the cable or the equipment. Typically, I find the cable is often the problem at longer lengths. At 10 feet it less likely the cable especially for 1080P which is about 4.5gbs and not even 10.2gbs. HDMI is fun


I've seen both Anthem and Lumagen recommend not using cables shorter than 2m/6ft, shorter cables can apparently have issues with (IIRC) reflections. I've been through this dance before, and I ended up replacing all my cables with BJC cables of at least 6 feet and it "solved" all my HDMI issues with my 50V.

Also, why do we care about 18Gbps cables, the D2V does not support HDMI 2.0, it's HDMI chips max out at 10.2Gbps. I couldn't even get a 10.2 Gbps 4k signal through my AVM50V using "through" it's just not supported as near as I can tell.


----------



## thestewman

bekindrewind said:


> This what I’m using now.
> Mono price 10ft 18Gbps Ultra Slim Series High Performance HDMI Cable w/RedMere Technology
> http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-18G...1457672735&sr=8-3&keywords=red+mere+hdmi+10ft
> 
> This is what I was using before RedMere. Tried these in place of the RedMere, same problem.
> Commercial Series Premium High Speed HDMI® Cable, 10ft Black
> http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=3662


The Commercial Series is 3/8 in in diameter and very stiff. 
I know Monoprice is very popular but no where on their site do they tell you anything about a HDMI cable certification by the HDMI Licensing group.


----------



## bekindrewind

stanger89 said:


> I've seen both Anthem and Lumagen recommend not using cables shorter than 2m/6ft, shorter cables can apparently have issues with (IIRC) reflections. I've been through this dance before, and I ended up replacing all my cables with BJC cables of at least 6 feet and it "solved" all my HDMI issues with my 50V.
> 
> Also, why do we care about 18Gbps cables, the D2V does not support HDMI 2.0, it's HDMI chips max out at 10.2Gbps. I couldn't even get a 10.2 Gbps 4k signal through my AVM50V using "through" it's just not supported as near as I can tell.


Interesting that Anthem and Lumagen recommend longer than 2m. Well how about that, got one thing right, lol.

Why do we care about 18Gbps cables, just trying to stay somewhat in the future game. I'll be replaceing the D2v soon for something that can handle all the newer specs for 4k. PM me if anyone is interested in the D2v, possibly the McIntosh too.


----------



## bekindrewind

thestewman said:


> The Commercial Series is 3/8 in in diameter and very stiff.
> I know Monoprice is very popular but no where on their site do they tell you anything about a HDMI cable certification by the HDMI Licensing group.


So here's the rub. They say cheap vs expensive HDMI cables, no difference. They either work or they don't. Same quailty of signal. And here I am, dog chasing his tail. I'm losing video not audio, that would seem it would be filed under the it's not the HDMI cable senario. But does it? I love this hobby. Actually I do.


----------



## stanger89

bekindrewind said:


> So here's the rub. They say cheap vs expensive HDMI cables, no difference. They either work or they don't. Same quailty of signal. And here I am, dog chasing his tail. I'm losing video not audio, that would seem it would be filed under the it's not the HDMI cable senario. But does it? I love this hobby. Actually I do.


To be really clear, what "we" say, is that buying a more expensive cable doesn't get you a better picture, especially if the cable you have works. If a $1 cable that came with some device gives you a picture without sparkles or other errors, buying a $500 Nordost HDMI cable is not going to give you a a better picture, it won't give you more colors or better contrast, or sharper pixels, nor will it lift a veil or image the sound better. Additionally, buying a more expensive cable doesn't even guarantee you it will work better, the HD Fury Integral thread is an interesting read. (I'll probably get the numbers wrong but) HD Fury has said that upwards of 9/10 cables they've tried fail at 18Gbps, even expensive fiber optic cables. Meanwhile I have some cheap cables (BJC Series FE's I believe) that pass 18Gbps (4k60 4:4:4) from my Samsung K8500 to my Integral just fine, they're 6ft cables.

With HDMI, what you need to do is buy a _quality_ (note that this does not have to mean expensive) from a reputable manufacturer. I really like Blue Jeans Cable because they are very up front/direct about that their cables have, and have not been certified for. I've also had generally good luck with Monoprice.

Now if you're really worried about future proofing, I would recommend you stick with "Premium" certified cables. These cables have actually undergone, and passed HDMI compliance testing to 18Gbps. BJC has Premium certified cables:
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/premium-hdmi-cable.htm

FWIW it was a combination of short (6ft) BJC Series FE and long (25 ft, to my projector) BJC Series 1 cables that finally resolved the HDMI handshake issues in my system with my AVM50V.


----------



## thestewman

bekindrewind said:


> So here's the rub. They say cheap vs expensive HDMI cables, no difference. They either work or they don't. Same quailty of signal. And here I am, dog chasing his tail. I'm losing video not audio, that would seem it would be filed under the it's not the HDMI cable senario. But does it? I love this hobby. Actually I do.


Quite a quandary there 'bekindrewind'. All of your own making as several forum members with an interest in fixing you problem have offered several ways that could isolate and fix the video dropouts. The decision is yours to make. Do you continue to maintain with no proof that the Monoprice 18gps RedMere cables are not at fault. If so then a major component or a setup mistake is causing the dropouts.

Lets try this time step by step
We will want to eliminate the Anthem D2v, It has been known to have HDMI board problems such as they may become unseated. Anthem D2v Hardware and software design problems are not the cause because other users are not having the video dropouts.


Buy 3, 6 to 10 ft hi quality Blue Jeans cables.
I suggest the BJC Belden Series-FE HDMI Cable.
Bluejeans does have a 30 day return policy.

First connect the Anthem D2 #1 HDMI Output to your video display with a new Bluejeans cable. Droputs ? No ? Then the old cable was at fault. 

Still have dropouts ? 
Connect one of the new cables direct from your Tivo 
to a HDMI input on your display bypassing the Anthem D2. 
Any video dropouts ? No ? then maybe the D2 is at fault
Next route a new cable from your OPPO to your display again bypassing the Athem D2v.
Any Video dropouts ? No ?
Then again the D2v maybe at fault.
There are two more tests that might confirm this.

Reconnect with new Bluejeans cables the Tivo and OPPO back to the Anthem D2 using HDMI inputs 1 to 4, on the upper board.
If there are no video dropouts, you could swap out the new cables for your old Monoprice cables and see if the dropouts return.

If there are still dropouts then change the D2 inputs to #5 to 8 on the lower board.
Anthem has had occasional problems with poorly seated or defective HDMI boards.
If there are no video dropouts. You may have a bad upper HDMI board

Most of us have experienced video dropouts on occasion.
This process will pinpoint the area of the problem.
Ok so now yours to correct or live with


----------



## Shrike645

No it isn't possible.


----------



## mkaye

my TiVo problem is definitely my D2v - started 2 months ago
if I select 1080p passthru in the TiVo, some shows will not work (i.e. 720p - no video, intermittent audio)
in Netflix, exiting with EXIT, or using the TiVo button causes the TiVo to reboot, or just using the up arrow to exit watching a show
I bypassed the D2v and Netflix is OK

the problem is when the resolution changes

done a firmware reload, moved the TiVo to the bottom set of HDMI

mark


----------



## mkaye

mkaye said:


> my TiVo problem is definitely my D2v - started 2 months ago
> if I select 1080p passthru in the TiVo, some shows will not work (i.e. 720p - no video, intermittent audio)
> in Netflix, exiting with EXIT, or using the TiVo button causes the TiVo to reboot, or just using the up arrow to exit watching a show
> I bypassed the D2v and Netflix is OK
> 
> the problem is when the resolution changes
> 
> done a firmware reload, moved the TiVo to the bottom set of HDMI
> 
> mark


borrowed a D2v 3D
I can exit Netflix w/o issues
no audio/video on the same shows if I enable 1080P passthru in my TiVo - shows 1920x44 or some other nonsense

exiting Netflix - is this a problem with my D2v (not 3d) or a firmware fix in 3.10?

any else have a TiVo premiere that can confirm?

mark

I did notice on the 3D unit that I got a pink screen for a fraction of a second when I exited Netflix - the resolution has changed & my D2v/TiVo doesn't seem to handle it well


----------



## thestewman

mkaye said:


> borrowed a D2v 3D
> I can exit Netflix w/o issues
> no audio/video on the same shows if I enable 1080P passthru in my TiVo - shows 1920x44 or some other nonsense
> 
> exiting Netflix - is this a problem with my D2v (not 3d) or a firmware fix in 3.10?
> 
> any else have a TiVo premiere that can confirm?
> 
> mark
> 
> I did notice on the 3D unit that I got a pink screen for a fraction of a second when I exited Netflix - the resolution has changed & my D2v/TiVo doesn't seem to handle it well


I wonder if you should be in the Tivo user forum. This might be something Tivo users may be experiencing and could help you with.
Not having a Tivo there maybe not be an Anthem user who can help. I recall something about there not being 1080p in the Tivo to display but I have no real experience.


----------



## MitchPope

mkaye said:


> borrowed a D2v 3D
> 
> I can exit Netflix w/o issues
> 
> no audio/video on the same shows if I enable 1080P passthru in my TiVo - shows 1920x44 or some other nonsense
> 
> 
> 
> exiting Netflix - is this a problem with my D2v (not 3d) or a firmware fix in 3.10?



Have you tried reinstalling 3.09? I think 3.10 is only meant for the 3D. You could ask Anthem if there were ever any beta fw for the D2v that might work in your case. Has the TiVo recently done a fw update and broke something?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## mkaye

thestewman said:


> I wonder if you should be in the Tivo user forum. This might be something Tivo users may be experiencing and could help you with.
> Not having a Tivo there maybe not be an Anthem user who can help. I recall something about there not being 1080p in the Tivo to display but I have no real experience.


been through TiVo support
if it works if I bypass the D2v or use passthrough mode on the 3D, then it isn't their problem (& I agree to a point)
it is something with my D2v, but no way to prove if just mine until I get someone else with the same setup to confirm or deny

mark


----------



## thestewman

mkaye said:


> been through TiVo support
> if it works if I bypass the D2v or use passthrough mode on the 3D, then it isn't their problem (& I agree to a point)
> it is something with my D2v, but no way to prove if just mine until I get someone else with the same setup to confirm or deny
> 
> mark


Exactly what are you attempting to view in 1080p from your Tivio ?

For the source setting giving you problems in your D2 Setup what do you have the video output config set for ?


----------



## mkaye

thestewman said:


> Exactly what are you attempting to view in 1080p from your Tivio ?
> 
> For the source setting giving you problems in your D2 Setup what do you have the video output config set for ?


config 1 - 1920x1080p60 - resolution of my PJ

downloaded mkv files
the point is that I had 1080p passthru on the TiVo enabled for over 3 years and now it is a problem
it could be a firmware load from TiVo

mark


----------



## thestewman

mkaye said:


> config 1 - 1920x1080p60 - resolution of my PJ
> 
> downloaded mkv files
> the point is that I had 1080p passthru on the TiVo enabled for over 3 years and now it is a problem
> it could be a firmware load from TiVo
> 
> mark


What model Tivo do you have ?
Like I said in a prior post I do not have a Tivo and limited experience.
But in researching and reaching out to friends they tell me a Tivo cannot process MKV files.
A small percentage of the time the Tivo might start to process AVI and MKV files 

They have to be converted to a format the Tivo can use.

This may be model dependent that is why I am asking what model you are using.


----------



## mkaye

thestewman said:


> What model Tivo do you have ?
> Like I said in a prior post I do not have a Tivo and limited experience.
> But in researching and reaching out to friends they tell me a Tivo cannot process MKV files.
> A small percentage of the time the Tivo might start to process AVI and MKV files
> 
> They have to be converted to a format the Tivo can use.
> 
> This may be model dependent that is why I am asking what model you are using.


I use PyTiVo, it converts files on-the-fly to a format the TiVo can use (if necessary)
been working for 3 years+ now
never had a file the TiVo couldn't play

my problem is with Netflix on my D2v, not with the D2v 3D - is my unit defective, or is there something in firmware 3.10 (3D) not in 3.09j (D2v) that fixed the problem?

mark


----------



## thestewman

mkaye said:


> I use PyTiVo, it converts files on-the-fly to a format the TiVo can use (if necessary)
> been working for 3 years+ now
> never had a file the TiVo couldn't play
> 
> my problem is with Netflix on my D2v, not with the D2v 3D - is my unit defective, or is there something in firmware 3.10 (3D) not in 3.09j (D2v) that fixed the problem?
> 
> mark


Mark, I'm confused so help me out.
What Anthem do you have D2, D2v or D2v 3D
What Anthem software version do you have ?
What model Tivo do you have ?
What version of Tivo software if you know ?


----------



## mkaye

thestewman said:


> Mark, I'm confused so help me out.
> What Anthem do you have D2, D2v or D2v 3D
> What Anthem software version do you have ?
> What model Tivo do you have ?
> What version of Tivo software if you know ?


D2v 3.9j
D2v 3D (borrowed) 3.10
Premiere - latest software

mark


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If you ask Anthem Tech Support, they'll tell you the correct firmware for an original Statement D2v is v3.09. The Beta versions after 3.09 (such as v3.09j), and Official version 3.10 are intended for the D2v/3D hardware only.
--Bob


----------



## mkaye

3.09x is OK for the D2v (according to Andrew @anthem)

mark


----------



## mkaye

thestewman said:


> Mkaye
> 
> quote=thestewman;42608018]Mark, I'm confused so help me out.
> What Anthem do you have D2, D2v or D2v 3D
> What Anthem software version do you have ?
> What model Tivo do you have ?
> What version of Tivo software if you know ?




You say you also have a D2v 3D on hand. 
Does it also exhibit the same video dropouts ?
And only from the Tivo playing MKV files ?

Explain why you use the Anthem Passthrough which is for 3D for viewing the Tivo output[/QUOTE]

passthrough was used to prove that I have NO ISSUES when going to my JVC RS20 (same as going direct with the HDMI cable)

mark

pls read http://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...0v-arc1-tweaking-guide-1481.html#post42583058


----------



## madhuski

mkaye said:


> D2v 3.9j
> D2v 3D (borrowed) 3.10
> Premiere - latest software
> 
> mark



I've had no issues with My D2v3D and Roamio Pro.

FWIW, if you have a later generation d2v, there's an upgrade board selling on eBay right now: could be a easy fix for you


----------



## mkaye

madhuski said:


> I've had no issues with My D2v3D and Roamio Pro.
> 
> FWIW, if you have a later generation d2v, there's an upgrade board selling on eBay right now: could be a easy fix for you



thanks, not sure if adding the 3D board to mine and updating to 3.10 will solve my problem with exiting Netflix i.e. I have a hardware fault

still hoping that someone with a D2v (non 3D) and a TiVo Premiere will chime in

mark


----------



## RobDec

Hi
Under VIDEO OUTPUT CONFIG what resolution do you use for a Directv sat box (mostly 720P and 1080i and at least one station with a lower resolution)?

Also what resolution do you use for an Oppo 103d just for DVDs (the Oppo itself is set to 1080p)?

Thanks for any relies

Rob


----------



## mkaye

video output should be the native resolution of your display

mark


----------



## AVfile

RobDec said:


> Hi
> Under VIDEO OUTPUT CONFIG what resolution do you use for a Directv sat box (mostly 720P and 1080i and at least one station with a lower resolution)?
> 
> Also what resolution do you use for an Oppo 103d just for DVDs (the Oppo itself is set to 1080p)?
> 
> Thanks for any relies
> 
> Rob



To get the best of both, setup two output configs:

1. 1080p/24 for the Oppo;

2. 1080p/60 for your sat box.

Set the Oppo to output 1080p 24Hz for movies because the Anthem processor doesn't do inverse telecine. 

There is one complication, when not playing film-based DVD or Blu-rays (concert videos and other 60Hz video) you will need to flip to 1080p/60 mode. You can simplify this in Anthem SOURCE SETUP by setting up DVD1 and DVD2 identical except for the Output Config (1 & 2 respectively). When you see a frame rate anomaly just press DVD on the Anthem again to toggle between 1 & 2.


----------



## cargen

*No sound from D2v*

Help!

My D2v is not generating any sound in any channel from any source.

At first I thought it was an amplifier, but owning two 5-channel amplifiers (an Anthem A5 and a Rotel 1098, I swapped / re-cabled and isolated the problem to the D2v since neither amplifier works in 5 channel cabling.

I'm experienced having owned this D2v, and a D2 before it and a D1 before that all the way back to 2004 so it is not some simple setting issue. Video works fine and it is not on Mute.

I've already tried loading back factory default setting and then reloading user settings with no success.

Any ideas before I have to send it back to Anthem for repair?


----------



## thestewman

cargen said:


> Help!
> 
> My D2v is not generating any sound in any channel from any source.
> 
> At first I thought it was an amplifier, but owning two 5-channel amplifiers (an Anthem A5 and a Rotel 1098, I swapped / re-cabled and isolated the problem to the D2v since neither amplifier works in 5 channel cabling.
> 
> I'm experienced having owned this D2v, and a D2 before it and a D1 before that all the way back to 2004 so it is not some simple setting issue. Video works fine and it is not on Mute.
> 
> I've already tried loading back factory default setting and then reloading user settings with no success.
> 
> Any ideas before I have to send it back to Anthem for repair?



I know this sounds elementary but maybe we can discover an underlying cause or problem.

Describe what you see on the the display after the unit starts

From Left to Right ... Top Line.........Source, Audio Input, Video Resolution
From left to Right......Bottom line.....Audio Surround Mode, Volume in DB

Next

With the unit powered on and a dependable source as your input describe what you see on the display as you press the Remote Input button or the unit's Status button.

1.Unit Id Date&Time Software ver........

2. Video Input.....................

3. Surround Mode/Audio Type..

4. Audio Input Format............

5. Video Output.....................

6. Audio Output.....................

7. Audio Output Format..........


----------



## RobDec

*Clearance*

Hi
I have a D2v 3D and am wondering how much clearance I would need for proper functioning? I have 2 and 1/4 clearance on top and my shelf is 22 and 1/2 wide. The front and back of my rack is clear. Also how hot is you processor(warm, very warm, very very warm, or hot)?

Thank you for your time,

Rob


----------



## madhuski

My D2v3D has about 3 inches on top, 2 inches on the side and straddles the line between lukewarm and cool


----------



## dweltman

So what are the pros and cons you are thinking of?


----------



## barhoram

RobDec said:


> Hi
> I have a D2v 3D and am wondering how much clearance I would need for proper functioning? I have 2 and 1/4 clearance on top and my shelf is 22 and 1/2 wide. The front and back of my rack is clear. Also how hot is you processor(warm, very warm, very very warm, or hot)?
> 
> Thank you for your time,
> 
> Rob


Mine is in a rack with minimal clearance. What I did was get a small component cooling fan (parts express) that you can actually power by the 12V trigger to ventilate up (from the top of the D2) where most of the heat is and blow out the back.


----------



## madhuski

dweltman said:


> So what are the pros and cons you are thinking of?



here are my rambling thoughts:


- D2V has a (world class) video processor - not that important, but some features are nice
- D2V's ARC corrects to a higher frequency than the AVM 60 (said a few people in the anthem threads who seemed knowledgable)
- D2V works flawlessly with my URC remote. AVM 60 has issues with the discrete inputs (presumably this will get worked out)
- D2v upsamples everything to 192 Khz. Advatnge - maybe.
- The retail cost differrence: I know a portion is the sigma VXP, but it seems to me the 6k differrenc implies there are better internals than the AVM

- AVM 60 is more future proof in terms of Atmos (which I probably won't do for a while), UHD, and hdcp
- AVM 60 makes more financial sense: I suspect it will depreciate less in the future, and I can probably sell the D2V for more

- I suspect the AVM will sound similar to the Mrx X10/x20 line. When I went back and forth between the 710 and the D2V, I *think* I perceived a notable differrence. I'm fully aware there is a ****load of bias inherent in my, ahem, test. But, I dont want to connect the AVM 60 and be disapointed.


----------



## stanger89

madhuski said:


> here are my rambling thoughts:
> 
> 
> - D2V has a (world class) video processor - not that important, but some features are nice


An AVM60+ Lumagen Radiance would be better, and cheaper.



> - D2V's ARC corrects to a higher frequency than the AVM 60 (said a few people in the anthem threads who seemed knowledgable)


I don't think that's true, I haven't ready any limits on ARC's correction, I haven't tried it, but I can enter 20k into the correction targets into the ARC2 program.



> - D2V works flawlessly with my URC remote. AVM 60 has issues with the discrete inputs (presumably this will get worked out)


That seems to be resolved with the current firmware, my MRX1120 works fine with my MX880.



> - The retail cost differrence: I know a portion is the sigma VXP, but it seems to me the 6k differrenc implies there are better internals than the AVM


All I know is I'm very happy with my MRX1120 coming from my AVM50V. I want to say it's "better" but I have no idea if that's just new equipment bias or real, but I have no regrets.


----------



## cargen

*Response to My NO AUDIO on D2v Post on 4-4-16*

Parsed Below is response to thestewman's questions regarding my D2v which is not generating Audio as I posted above on April 4 (i had to travel for the last week since).



thestewman said:


> I know this sounds elementary but maybe we can discover an underlying cause or problem.
> 
> Describe what you see on the the display after the unit starts
> 
> From Left to Right ... Top Line.........Source, Audio Input, Video Resolution
> *Tivo Digital MAIN < MAIN (a second later switches to 720p)*
> 
> From left to Right......Bottom line.....Audio Surround Mode, Volume in DB
> * -35db < on the right is only thing showing*
> 
> Next
> 
> With the unit powered on and a dependable source as your input describe what you see on the display as you press the Remote Input button or the unit's Status button.
> 
> 1.Unit Id Date&Time Software ver........
> *Statement D2v v3.09
> Tuesday 1:55pm*
> 
> 2. Video Input.....................
> *1280x720p/60 CP*
> 
> 3. Surround Mode/Audio Type..
> *Digital
> No Signal*
> 
> 4. Audio Input Format............
> No information displayed
> 
> 
> 5. Video Output.....................
> *VIDEO OUT CONFIG 1
> 1920x1080ix60*
> 
> 6. Audio Output.....................
> *24/192 kHz*
> 
> 7. Audio Output Format..........



I have tried multiple sources via 7 of HDMI inputs 2-8 (Tivo/DVD Player/Dvd Changer/Blu-ray Player/Blu-ray Changer, via 6-channel (SACD Changer) and the internal FM.

I know my Anthem A-5 amplifier is on and working (recently back from Anthem service) and I have same results with my Rotel 5-channel amplifier.

I already tried a Reset to original Setting after which I reloaded my user settings without restring sound.

Methinks my D2v needs service, but before all that, any ideas?

Chris


----------



## thestewman

cargen said:


> Parsed Below is response to thestewman's questions regarding my D2v which is not generating Audio as I posted above on April 4 (i had to travel for the last week since).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried multiple sources via 7 of HDMI inputs 2-8 (Tivo/DVD Player/Dvd Changer/Blu-ray Player/Blu-ray Changer, via 6-channel (SACD Changer) and the internal FM.
> 
> I know my Anthem A-5 amplifier is on and working (recently back from Anthem service) and I have same results with my Rotel 5-channel amplifier.
> 
> I already tried a Reset to original Setting after which I reloaded my user settings without restring sound.
> 
> Methinks my D2v needs service, but before all that, any ideas?
> 
> Chris


What source and what HDMI input was responsible for the thumbnails you posted ?


----------



## cargen

thestewman said:


> What source and what HDMI input was responsible for the thumbnails you posted ?



Tivo (renamed SAT 1) via HDMI 3.


----------



## cargen

cargen said:


> Tivo (renamed SAT 1) via HDMI 3.


Stew,

So I just moved Tivo (renamed SAT 1) from HDMI 3 to HDMI 1 (< which I had left vacant) and voila instantly I have sound from all sources! 

I had been using only HDMI 2,3,4,5,6,7,8

Could it be that the HDMI 1 input must always have a Source cable to it? 

I'm afraid to turn the D2v off and on again until late tonight because my wife is so happy to have access to the big screen with sound again at least for one night )).

Chris


----------



## thestewman

cargen said:


> Stew,
> 
> So I just moved Tivo (renamed SAT 1) from HDMI 3 to HDMI 1 (< which I had left vacant) and voila instantly I have sound from all sources!
> 
> I had been using only HDMI 2,3,4,5,6,7,8
> 
> Could it be that the HDMI 1 input must always have a Source cable to it?
> 
> I'm afraid to turn the D2v off and on again until late tonight because my wife is so happy to have access to the big screen with sound again at least for one night )).
> 
> Chris


Never heard that HDMI 1 had to be utilized to enable audio.
The thumbnails you posted indicated there was no audio being input which I would interpret not to be a D2v audio problem but a source or source setup problem.
There have been a few Tivo owners with problems mostly in regards to video output.
Is the video correct at 720p ? I thought all cable systems were at 1080i for HD.

And your D2v setup is set like this for all your sources with HDMI ?

Sat 1 Source Setup
Rename ... Sat 1
Video Out ... Config 1
Scaler Input ... HDMI 1
Audio In Dig ... HDMI
Audio Dig ... NO
Analog Audio ... NA
I suggest you Save Users Settings again. Then make any changes.


----------



## TheDudeAbides

*Cannot find D1/ D2 error message?*

Little help, please!

I am attempting to run ARC and keep getting the error message that the system cannot find the D1/ D2. 


I'm using a new Alienware Windows 10 computer.
The D2 is version 1.33.
Using iogear Usb-RS-232 adapter (GUC232A); driver is current.
COM Ports attempted 1, 3, 4, 5, 6.

What might I be doing wrong?


----------



## thestewman

TheDudeAbides said:


> Little help, please!
> 
> I am attempting to run ARC and keep getting the error message that the system cannot find the D1/ D2.
> 
> 
> I'm using a new Alienware Windows 10 computer.
> The D2 is version 1.33.
> Using iogear Usb-RS-232 adapter (GUC232A); driver is current.
> COM Ports attempted 1, 3, 4, 5, 6.
> 
> What might I be doing wrong?


From a previous post

First it is imperative that you are using a Keyspan USA-19HS serial to USB adapter ? 
The only reliable adapter and recommended by Anthem
Check for the latest software for the adapter.


----------



## TheDudeAbides

thestewman said:


> From a previous post
> 
> First it is imperative that you are using a Keyspan USA-19HS serial to USB adapter ?
> The only reliable adapter and recommended by Anthem
> Check for the latest software for the adapter.


I will try that - I read quite a few posts, but there are so many!

Thanks for the suggestion - will give it a whirl...

Cheers,

TDA


----------



## RobDec

Thanks madhuski and barhoran,
Ill have 2 and1/4 inches on top and about 2 and 1/2 on both sides. I think Ill be fine. Any suggestions on a fan just in case? Any further info would be appreciated!
Thanks Rob


----------



## cargen

*No Sound on D2v posts above SOLVED!*

After phoning the Anthem support line and discussing, we sleuthed it together.

I forgot to mention above that I had recently installed a Tivo Bolt which features HDMI 2.0, which I had cabled to the D2v's HDMI 1.3 input. Thus when the D2v was set to turn on direct to the Tivo at Startup, the D2v was only triggering on any amplifier about once out of every 5-6 attempts.

I knew that the Tivo Bolt had HDMI 2.0 and is 4K and HDR ready. But since my D2v is cabled to a circa 2006, so far non-blob burdened Sony Qualia 006, I didn't purchase the Tivo Bolt for its 4k / HDR capabilities, only because Comcast/xFinity forced the obsolescence of my Tivo Series 3. I must say that I love the Tivo Bolt's new feature screen interface and much increased speed!

The WORK-AROUND we came up with is - to turn off the D2v while it is set to another/any Source NOT featuring HDMI 2.0.

So I programmed my URC MX3000 remote control to switch the D2v from whatever last Source was in use during the last session of use use to the D2v's internal FM/AM before shut down.
Now at the next Startup, the D2v properly triggers my two (2) 5-channel amplifiers that are cabled to the D2v.
After the D2v has triggered the amplifiers on, switching to the Tivo Bolt via HDMI is no problem and it works perfectly.

Hope this post helps somebody else some day because this thread has helped me so many times since Page 1!


----------



## bekindrewind

I've been having this intermittent issue of video dropping with all sources but audio continues. The other day the video would go off and on, snow, streaks etc. I think I've found the problem. Seems HDMI out #1 on the D2v maybe going bad. I switched to HDMI out #2 and have not had any problems.

1. Does HDMI out #2 not allow on-screen information on my TV? (Same setting as #1 , HD, Bypassed not choosen)
2. Any idea what Athem would charge to fix the HDMI 0ut #1 port?

Beside HDMI out #2 not allowing on-screen information, are HDMI out #1 and #2 identical?

I appreciate your thoughts.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ There's no On Screen Display available on HDMI 2. Also it can not be set for "THROUGH" video configuration (applies if you have the 3D upgrade).

I forget whether audio output (stereo LPCM intended for use with a TV's internal speakers) is available on HDMI 2.

Otherwise they are the same.

-----------------------------------------

You are lucky in that HDMI 1 (the "Main" HDMI output) is on a daughter board, so if the problem really is in the port itself -- say a broken pin in the socket -- they won't have to replace the whole video board that daughter board plugs into.

Sometimes, problems on HDMI 1 require nothing more than reseating that daughter board into the video board. Depending on how comfortable you are about touching electronics -- e.g., understand how to avoid zapping the boards with static electricity -- Anthem tech support may have you try reseating that board to avoid a round trip for such a simple repair. They may also have you try reinstalling the firmware just in case something got corrupted on the video board.

I'd suggest you start by getting a flashlight and taking a careful look into that HDMI socket, and also the HDMI plug itself, looking for bent pins. Then give Anthem tech support a call.
--Bob


----------



## bekindrewind

Bob, as always, you help everyone out so promptly. Thank you.

My HDMI cables are 15' Monoprice active. One of the reasons I'm using those is because they put no weight stress on the HDMI port. In order to rule out bad HDMI cables I've tried non-active cables and some of my other Monoprice active. Same result, problem with HDMI-out #1 with all cables, no problem with HDMI-out 2. 

I'd be happy to try and fix the port if Anthem (or someone else) would provide a step by step proceedure.
What is reseating the board? Something I can do by taking the top off and removing some boards to get to the port? Would soldering be involved? I can do that if needed.

Depending on how comfortable you are about touching electronics -- e.g., understand how to avoid zapping the boards with static electricity
Not sure how to, think it has to do with grounding myself first? 
Ah, found this on the net:
http://www.wikihow.com/Ground-Yourself-to-Avoid-Destroying-a-Computer-with-Electrostatic-Discharge

I'll look into the HDMI socket with a flashlight now and see of a pin is bent. If so and I can bend it back, wouldn't that be great!

Cheers


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ If Anthem Tech Support thinks it's worth a try, they can email you a short instruction doc for removing & reseating the Main HDMI daughter board. Soldering is not required. Just screws which need to be removed and eventually replaced *in a specific order* to make sure the daughter board stays properly aligned after you reseat it. The daughter board attaches to the main video board, which is the big board right on top once you remove the chassis lid. (Removing and replacing the two HDMI daughter boards is how the 3D upgrade is done, so Anthem has instructions written up for dealers on this. In your case, you'd be reseating the same daughter board rather than replacing it, and you wouldn't need to touch the other daughter board which has HDMI 1-4 Inputs on it.)

Be aware you can zap these boards with static electricity. Zapping the main video board will ruin your day, since it is the single most expensive item to replace in the D2v. So you should plan on wearing a grounding strap, which makes sure your body is not carrying a charge while you touch any of these boards.

--------------------------------------------

Just in case I've not made it clear, you should NOT rush off and try this on your own right now. Talk to Anthem and only do it if they suggest it as the next step in trying to fix your problem. For example, if you spot a bent pin, the socket (i.e., that daughter board) will need to be replaced, not just reseated.
--Bob


----------



## JaHuh

Little help is needed with my AVM50v!

I have lost subwoofer output when watching movies or listening music. However, I can get the subwoofer test noise out of the processor. I haven't changed any settings in Anthem or in my BD player. I am using a HDMI cable to connect the player to the Anthem and I have tried another HDMI cable to see if the cable was faulty, but it didn't help. Any suggestions what to try next?


----------



## thestewman

JaHuh said:


> Little help is needed with my AVM50v!
> 
> I have lost subwoofer output when watching movies or listening music. However, I can get the subwoofer test noise out of the processor. I haven't changed any settings in Anthem or in my BD player. I am using a HDMI cable to connect the player to the Anthem and I have tried another HDMI cable to see if the cable was faulty, but it didn't help. Any suggestions what to try next?


What player are you using ? 

Describe what you see on the the AVM50v display after the unit starts

From Left to Right ... Top Line.........Source, Audio Input, Video Resolution
From left to Right......Bottom line.....Audio Surround Mode, Volume in DB

Next

With the unit powered on and the player as your input describe what you see on the display as you press the Remote Input button or the unit's Status button.

1.Unit Id Date&Time Software ver........

2. Video Input.....................

3. Surround Mode/Audio Type..

4. Audio Input Format............

5. Video Output.....................

6. Audio Output.....................

7. Audio Output Format..........


----------



## JaHuh

thestewman said:


> What player are you using ?
> 
> Describe what you see on the the AVM50v display after the unit starts
> 
> From Left to Right ... Top Line.........Source, Audio Input, Video Resolution
> From left to Right......Bottom line.....Audio Surround Mode, Volume in DB
> 
> Next
> 
> With the unit powered on and the player as your input describe what you see on the display as you press the Remote Input button or the unit's Status button.
> 
> 1.Unit Id Date&Time Software ver........
> 
> 2. Video Input.....................
> 
> 3. Surround Mode/Audio Type..
> 
> 4. Audio Input Format............
> 
> 5. Video Output.....................
> 
> 6. Audio Output.....................
> 
> 7. Audio Output Format..........



The player I am using is Cambridge Audio BD751.

AVM 50v displays following info (Top line) from left to right after starting:

*BD1 Digital Main*

Bottom line has only *-40 dB* on the right.

I get following info by pressing Status button

1.Unit Id Date&Time Software ver........
*AVM 50v v. 3.09
Sunday 02:45*

2. Video Input.....................
*1920 x 1080p / 50 CP*

3. Surround Mode/Audio Type..
*PCM 44.1. kHz PCM NP*

4. Audio Input Format............
*L R*

5. Video Output.....................
*Video out config 1
Auto*

6. Audio Output.....................
*L C R Sub
LS RS*

7. Audio Output Format..........
*Main tone controls
Enabled*


----------



## thestewman

JaHuh said:


> The player I am using is Cambridge Audio BD751.
> 
> AVM 50v displays following info (Top line) from left to right after starting:
> 
> *BD1 Digital Main*
> 
> Bottom line has only *-40 dB* on the right.
> 
> I get following info by pressing Status button
> 
> 1.Unit Id Date&Time Software ver........
> *AVM 50v v. 3.09
> Sunday 02:45*
> 
> 2. Video Input.....................
> *1920 x 1080p / 50 CP*
> 
> 3. Surround Mode/Audio Type..
> *PCM 44.1. kHz PCM NP*
> 
> 4. Audio Input Format............
> *L R*
> 
> 5. Video Output.....................
> *Video out config 1
> Auto*
> 
> 6. Audio Output.....................
> *L C R Sub
> LS RS*
> 
> 7. Audio Output Format..........
> *Main tone controls
> Enabled*


Not real familiar with your Cambridge BD player. I wonder what source you are trying to play. Your current player set up is for stereo in PCM and that is what the Anthem is receiving over HDMI. It is converting it to a 5.1 surround but apparently there is no sub signal. I am guessing you were playing a DVD with 2 channel audio 
I would check both your player and Anthem setup. It may have changed by accident due to some unknown reason.
Your sub should be connected to Sub 1 not Sub 2 and in the setup it should be set to 1 Sub


----------



## JaHuh

thestewman said:


> Not real familiar with your Cambridge BD player. I wonder what source you are trying to play. Your current player set up is for stereo in PCM and that is what the Anthem is receiving over HDMI. It is converting it to a 5.1 surround but apparently there is no sub signal. I am guessing you were playing a DVD with 2 channel audio
> I would check both your player and Anthem setup. It may have changed by accident due to some unknown reason.
> Your sub should be connected to Sub 1 not Sub 2 and in the setup it should be set to 1 Sub


Thanks for your reply thestewman. I had a CD inside my player last time. Now I tested with a BD and got following info by pressing the Status Button:

2. Video Input.....................
*1920 x 1080p / 24 CP*

3. Surround Mode/Audio Type..
*DTS-HD Master Audio
48 kHz NP*

4. Audio Input Format............
*L C R LFE
LS LR RR RS*

6. Audio Output.....................
*L C R Sub
LS RS*

AVM 50v displays following info (Top line) from left to right:

*BD1 DTS-MA 1080p*

Bottom line has *7.1 -40 dB *

I have connected the sub to Sub 1 and the setup is set to 1 sub. 

My player's audio setup is set to send bitstream through HDMI and my player's display shows DTS-MA as the type of audio track playing.

Everything seems to be OK, but LFE is missing for some reason.


----------



## stanger89

JaHuh said:


> 6. Audio Output.....................
> *L C R Sub
> LS RS*


This says it's outputting to your sub, are you sure the sub is functional?


----------



## thestewman

JaHuh said:


> Thanks for your reply thestewman. I had a CD inside my player last time. Now I tested with a BD and got following info by pressing the Status Button:
> 
> 2. Video Input.....................
> *1920 x 1080p / 24 CP*
> 
> 3. Surround Mode/Audio Type..
> *DTS-HD Master Audio
> 48 kHz NP*
> 
> 4. Audio Input Format............
> *L C R LFE
> LS LR RR RS*
> 
> 6. Audio Output.....................
> *L C R Sub
> LS RS*
> 
> AVM 50v displays following info (Top line) from left to right:
> 
> *BD1 DTS-MA 1080p*
> 
> Bottom line has *7.1 -40 dB *
> 
> I have connected the sub to Sub 1 and the setup is set to 1 sub.
> 
> My player's audio setup is set to send bitstream through HDMI and my player's display shows DTS-MA as the type of audio track playing.
> 
> Everything seems to be OK, but LFE is missing for some reason.


Your player ouput is 7.1 channels but your Anthem AVM 50v is setup for 5.1 channels.
Do you have a 7.1 system ?


----------



## JaHuh

stanger89 said:


> JaHuh said:
> 
> 
> 
> 6. Audio Output.....................
> *L C R Sub
> LS RS*
> 
> 
> 
> This says it's outputting to your sub, are you sure the sub is functional?
Click to expand...


Hi, I am sure the sub is functional, because I can get the Anthem's test tone out of it. That's why I find strange I cannot get LFE out of it when watching movies and settings in Anthem and CA seems to be Ok.


----------



## JaHuh

thestewman said:


> JaHuh said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your reply thestewman. I had a CD inside my player last time. Now I tested with a BD and got following info by pressing the Status Button:
> 
> 2. Video Input.....................
> *1920 x 1080p / 24 CP*
> 
> 3. Surround Mode/Audio Type..
> *DTS-HD Master Audio
> 48 kHz NP*
> 
> 4. Audio Input Format............
> *L C R LFE
> LS LR RR RS*
> 
> 6. Audio Output.....................
> *L C R Sub
> LS RS*
> 
> AVM 50v displays following info (Top line) from left to right:
> 
> *BD1 DTS-MA 1080p*
> 
> Bottom line has *7.1 -40 dB *
> 
> I have connected the sub to Sub 1 and the setup is set to 1 sub.
> 
> My player's audio setup is set to send bitstream through HDMI and my player's display shows DTS-MA as the type of audio track playing.
> 
> Everything seems to be OK, but LFE is missing for some reason.
> 
> 
> 
> Your player ouput is 7.1 channels but your Anthem AVM 50v is setup for 5.1 channels.
> Do you have a 7.1 system ?
Click to expand...

No, I have a 5.1 system.


----------



## thestewman

JaHuh said:


> No, I have a 5.1 system.


Well the Anthem indicates 7.1 input and as stanger89 stated the Anthem says the Anthem is outputting to the sub. There just is no signal.

4. Audio Input Format............
L C R LFE
LS LR RR RS

So your setup is possibly incorrect and might be the reason.
Check your 50v setup you should have in Speaker Setup the rears set to NONE and be using the Surrounds. You should also have the Bass Management setup also.
One other possibility to check. Your right and Left Front speakers should be set to SMALL not LARGE otherwise the LFE will be directed to them.


----------



## JaHuh

thestewman said:


> Well the Anthem indicates 7.1 input and as stanger89 stated the Anthem says the Anthem is outputting to the sub. There just is no signal.
> 
> 4. Audio Input Format............
> L C R LFE
> LS LR RR RS
> 
> So your setup is possibly incorrect and might be the reason.
> Check your 50v setup you should have in Speaker Setup the rears set to NONE and be using the Surrounds. You should also have the Bass Management setup also.
> One other possibility to check. Your right and Left Front speakers should be set to SMALL not LARGE otherwise the LFE will be directed to them.


My Speaker Setup is as follows at the moment:

Adv settings: on
Fronts: advanced
Center: advanced
Surrounds: advanced
Rears: none
Subs: 1 sub
Xover freq: advanced
Fronts Xover: 80 THX
Center Xover: 80 THX
Surrnd Xover: 80 THX
Rear Xover: NA
Sub/LFE Xover: 80 THX
Sub polarity: normal
Sub phase: 0 deg
Bypass LFE Xover: Yes

If I switch Advanced settings off, all speakers are set to small except rears that are set to none. In this case the Xover freq is 80 THX and other Xovers are -- Hz.


----------



## thestewman

JaHuh said:


> My Speaker Setup is as follows at the moment:
> 
> Adv settings: on
> Fronts: advanced
> Center: advanced
> Surrounds: advanced
> Rears: none
> Subs: 1 sub
> Xover freq: advanced
> Fronts Xover: 80 THX
> Center Xover: 80 THX
> Surrnd Xover: 80 THX
> Rear Xover: NA
> Sub/LFE Xover: 80 THX
> Sub polarity: normal
> Sub phase: 0 deg
> Bypass LFE Xover: Yes
> 
> If I switch Advanced settings off, all speakers are set to small except rears that are set to none. In this case the Xover freq is 80 THX and other Xovers are -- Hz.


Some suggestions to try
Go into Anthem setup and select bass management.
There should be 2, Music and Movies
Set your all your speakers to SMALL
Set your Sub Xfer to 120 hz @ 80hz you are losing a lot of bass information. 

Did you mean 80HZ not 80 THX ?
If you have THX on turn it off. No Anthem user has ever expressed good results with THX .
Have you used an Audio Sound Meter to set up the levels of each speaker ?


----------



## JaHuh

thestewman said:


> Some suggestions to try
> Go into Anthem setup and select bass management.
> There should be 2, Music and Movies
> Set your all your speakers to SMALL
> Set your Sub Xfer to 120 hz @ 80hz you are losing a lot of bass information.
> 
> Did you mean 80HZ not 80 THX ?
> If you have THX on turn it off. No Anthem user has ever expressed good results with THX .
> Have you used an Audio Sound Meter to set up the levels of each speaker ?


Now we are making some progress. After I set my Sub Xfer to 120 hz I get LFE channel but it is weak. When I add +10 dB to subwoofer it is somewhat reasonable. However, as it is getting late here in Finland and I do not want to scare my neighbour with sudden noises while testing I will continue tomorrow.

I really meant 80 THX as the changes went from 75 hz -> 80 THX -> 85 hz and THX is turned off.

I haven't used an Audio Sound Meter to set up the levels.


----------



## thestewman

JaHuh said:


> Now we are making some progress. After I set my Sub Xfer to 120 hz I get LFE channel but it is weak. When I add +10 dB to subwoofer it is somewhat reasonable. However, as it is getting late here in Finland and I do not want to scare my neighbour with sudden noises while testing I will continue tomorrow.
> 
> I really meant 80 THX as the changes went from 75 hz -> 80 THX -> 85 hz and THX is turned off.
> 
> I haven't used an Audio Sound Meter to set up the levels.


Good to hear we are making some advances.
I never have heard of this "I really meant 80 THX as the changes went from 75 hz -> 80 THX -> 85 hz and THX is turned off." Strange.

Did you go into the advanced tab and change every speaker to small ?

Anthem diverts the sub signal to any speaker set to Large so that reduces the signal going to the sub.
When listening for output from the sub it should be a Blu Ray or movie as most audio disks have little or no LFE.



JaHuh said:


> After I set my Sub Xfer to 120 hz I get LFE channel but it is weak. When I add +10 dB to subwoofer it is somewhat reasonable.


We never discussed this and I do not know how you are setting the +10db but you should be raising the sub level at the sub not from the Anthem .

Most Important you have to do the speaker level output setup or we will never get the desired results. Hopefully you will have accurately measured and set up the speaker distances prior to the level setup.
You absolutely have to get a sound level meter with a C range and slow response.
Just follow the Anthem manual using the left front speaker as the baseline.
Its daytime here in the US. Have a GoodNight


----------



## JaHuh

thestewman said:


> Good to hear we are making some advances.
> I never have heard of this "I really meant 80 THX as the changes went from 75 hz -> 80 THX -> 85 hz and THX is turned off." Strange.
> 
> Did you go into the advanced tab and change every speaker to small ?
> 
> Anthem diverts the sub signal to any speaker set to Large so that reduces the signal going to the sub.
> When listening for output from the sub it should be a Blu Ray or movie as most audio disks have little or no LFE.
> 
> 
> 
> We never discussed this and I do not know how you are setting the +10db but you should be raising the sub level at the sub not from the Anthem .
> 
> Most Important you have to do the speaker level output setup or we will never get the desired results. Hopefully you will have accurately measured and set up the speaker distances prior to the level setup.
> You absolutely have to get a sound level meter with a C range and slow response.
> Just follow the Anthem manual using the left front speaker as the baseline.
> Its daytime here in the US. Have a GoodNight


As it was getting late last evening and I was tired, I did not remember to make changes to my player where the Xfer was set incorrectly after changing settings in Anthem. After correcting that mistake the LFE can be now heard normally. 

I have attached pics from my current settings (first two pics) + a pic from xover freq setting with 80 THX showing even if the THX is not on.

I guess next step for me is to get a sound level meter and make some measurements and play with ARC-kit.


----------



## thestewman

JaHuh said:


> As it was getting late last evening and I was tired, I did not remember to make changes to my player where the Xfer was set incorrectly after changing settings in Anthem. After correcting that mistake the LFE can be now heard normally.
> 
> I have attached pics from my current settings (first two pics) + a pic from xover freq setting with 80 THX showing even if the THX is not on.
> 
> I guess next step for me is to get a sound level meter and make some measurements and play with ARC-kit.


Glad it works now.
Yes, a sound level meter will do wonders for your setup. Without it you are blindfolded trying to get the correct levels. 
My one concern is why the screen pic of the front panel shows 7.1 channel input ?
Maybe an incorrect setting of your player output as you say you have a 5.1 system and no rear speakers.
When you get ARC setup and installed you be in audio nirvana.


----------



## JaHuh

thestewman said:


> Glad it works now.
> Yes, a sound level meter will do wonders for your setup. Without it you are blindfolded trying to get the correct levels.
> My one concern is why the screen pic of the front panel shows 7.1 channel input ?
> Maybe an incorrect setting of your player output as you say you have a 5.1 system and no rear speakers.
> When you get ARC setup and installed you be in audio nirvana.


Thanks for the help I received from you. I haven't had a chance to make any calibrations yet, but I will make those after I get a sound level meter to my hands.



thestewman said:


> My one concern is why the screen pic of the front panel shows 7.1 channel input ?
> Maybe an incorrect setting of your player output as you say you have a 5.1 system and no rear speakers.


The movie I originally tested with had a 7.1 audio track when I took the pic but when I played a movie with a 5.1 audio track the display showed 5.1. However, I still checked once more the player's settings and there is no option to change player output when using HDMI. Maybe I should borrow two more Genelec speakers from a friend to see what happens.


----------



## MrGrinch

*ARC Calibration*

Long time viewer of this thread. Excellent info over the years! 

I just replaced my front three speakers and decided to re-run ARC. Take a look and let me know if all looks well. 

Did the following prior to running ARC.

1. Save user settings.
2. Reset to Factory Default
3. Load user settings.
4. Set all speakers to zero and balanced to 75db with spl meter
5. ARC based on five microphone position

Anthem 50v firmware v3.09j


----------



## thestewman

MrGrinch said:


> Long time viewer of this thread. Excellent info over the years!
> 
> I just replaced my front three speakers and decided to re-run ARC. Take a look and let me know if all looks well.
> 
> Did the following prior to running ARC.
> 
> 1. Save user settings.
> 2. Reset to Factory Default
> 3. Load user settings.
> 4. Set all speakers to zero and balanced to 75db with spl meter
> 5. ARC based on five microphone position
> 
> Anthem 50v firmware v3.09j


Looks good except for the sub
Did you turn off the sub internal crossover by setting the xfer to bypass or its highest position ?
What other sub settings did you set or add ?


----------



## MrGrinch

thestewman said:


> Looks good except for the sub
> Did you turn off the sub internal crossover by setting the xfer to bypass or its highest position ?
> What other sub settings did you set or add ?


I have attached a pic of the sub settings... it might be a bit dark, so the settings are as follows:

variable low pass filter = just below 95
variable phase alignment = 0
variable high pass filter = just above 95


----------



## AVfile

I hope those filters are not applied to the LFE input. If you are not sure they should be defeated (low pass max, high pass min).


----------



## thestewman

MrGrinch said:


> I have attached a pic of the sub settings... it might be a bit dark, so the settings are as follows:
> 
> variable low pass filter = just below 95
> variable phase alignment = 0
> variable high pass filter = just above 95


I suggest you set the sub low pass filter to 180 or all the way right and the high pass filter to all the way left (max) or 40.
Then I would redo ARC.


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys been awhile since my last post, being running a 5.1 setup for awhile now and decided on going back to a 7.1 setup. Decided to introduce some Tripole's (New purchase Klipsch Rs62 Ii) and use them as the surrounds and the JTR Direct speakers (Slanted 8's) for back channels. My mains are JTR Triple 8's and running a single Seaton Submersive with the HP amp upgrade. Ran ARC and here are the results. Tested some BD's and the sound is excellent . Really happy with it and I have increased the gain to 2.5 and changed the sub to Flat under advanced setting and like what I'm hearing. The graphs are before adding more gain.


----------



## stanger89

thestewman said:


> I suggest you set the sub low pass filter to 40 or all the way left and the high pass filter to all the way right (max) or 180.
> Then I would redo ARC.


Shouldn't it be the other way around? Lowpass filter (passes frequencies below) should be set as high as possible, and Highpass filter (passes frequencies above) should be set as low as possible.


----------



## thestewman

stanger89 said:


> Shouldn't it be the other way around? Lowpass filter (passes frequencies below) should be set as high as possible, and Highpass filter (passes frequencies above) should be set as low as possible.


I was incorrect. Thanks for catching it. I edited my quote above to reflect the changes.


----------



## thestewman

MrGrinch said:


> Long time viewer of this thread. Excellent info over the years!
> 
> I just replaced my front three speakers and decided to re-run ARC. Take a look and let me know if all looks well.
> 
> Did the following prior to running ARC.
> 
> 1. Save user settings.
> 2. Reset to Factory Default
> 3. Load user settings.
> 4. Set all speakers to zero and balanced to 75db with spl meter
> 5. ARC based on five microphone position
> 
> Anthem 50v firmware v3.09j


MrGrinch I think I found the problem with your ARC sub performance

It was noted I made a error in my posting about setting the high and low pass filters.
My concern how I did this centered around the fact his sub had both a high and low pass control. Unusual for a sub. I checked further and found the manufacturer Definitive Technology has implemented a different kind of connection setup which centers round passing the signal through the sub and controlling your main speakers.

The following are the technical specifications for his sub:

Low-Level High-Pass Filter 12 dB/octave continuously variable(40 – 150 Hz)
Speaker Level High-Pass Filter 6 dB/octave (80 Hz)
Low-Level Low-Pass Filter 24 dB/octave continuously variable (40 – 150 Hz) plus unfiltered LFE direct coupled input

Manufacturers notes:

Low Pass Filter
Your subwoofer’s back panel features a continuously variable low pass filter.
This filter is continuously variable between 40 and 150 Hz. It rolls off the high frequency response of your subwoofer. 
This low pass filter control is used to obtain the optimum transition between the subwoofer and your main speakers. We receive many questions from subwoofer owners asking us where to set the filter controls in a variety of different setups. Although many people think that there is a specific frequency at which to set the controls in their system, this can only be determined by you. Experimentation is recommended (due to system placement and subjectivevariables) to obtain the best sound for you.

High Pass Filter
Your subwoofer is equipped with a continuously variable high pass filter which is
used when you wire the low-level inputs of your subwoofer to a full-range signal
and the low-level outputs of your subwoofer to the left and right channel inputs of your amplifier. [See Diagram 3.] When hooked up thusly, it allows you to vary the low-frequency roll-off of your main speakers. This control only works using the low-level inputs and outputs.

*What I found is in your photo of your existing connections you have the Anthem sub output connected directly to the LFE input.*

I suggest you obtain a female input/double male output Y cable connector and connect the Anthem Sub 1 output to the subs low level inputs. Then set the low level control to its highest setting 140hz. The high pass control will not be activated or used

Now rerun ARC and post your charts.


----------



## stanger89

thestewman said:


> High Pass Filter
> Your subwoofer is equipped with a continuously variable high pass filter which is
> used when you wire *the low-level inputs *of your subwoofer to a full-range signal
> and the low-level outputs of your subwoofer to the left and right channel inputs of your amplifier. [See Diagram 3.] When hooked up thusly, it allows you to vary the low-frequency roll-off of your main speakers. *This control only works using the low-level inputs and outputs*.


Is that a typo? That says (according to the figure) that the High Pass filter only works on the RCA inputs. I suspect (hope?) they meant to say "high-level inputs", ie the speaker inputs.


----------



## thestewman

stanger89 said:


> Is that a typo? That says (according to the figure) that the High Pass filter only works on the RCA inputs. I suspect (hope?) they meant to say "high-level inputs", ie the speaker inputs.


That is what Def Tech says

https://www.definitivetech.com/downloads/SuperCubes_Manual_12909_read.pdf

They seem to have a different method of connecting their sub. 
Check Diag #3


----------



## stanger89

From that, it sounds like the LFE input is the one you'd want to use with an Anthem:



> You can feed the mono or LFE subwoofer output of your receiver or decoder to the LFE input on the subwoofer and achieve full performance. [ See Diagram 1. ] Usually, these outputs have their own low-pass filter built into the circuit, and if this is the case, you would normally input them into the LFE input. The LFE inputs on your SuperCube subwoofer are direct coupled inputs which arenot affected by the subwoofer’s low-pass filter or low-pass crossover control.


I would assume the High-pass filter would be bypassed as well, it reads like it only applies to the high level outputs.


----------



## thestewman

stanger89 said:


> From that, it sounds like the LFE input is the one you'd want to use with an Anthem:
> 
> 
> 
> I would assume the High-pass filter would be bypassed as well, it reads like it only applies to the high level outputs.


Good point.
Since they are direct coupled and bypass the low pass filter the LFE input will work.


----------



## studlygoorite

thestewman and stranger89.....among others, just wanted to say it's very nice of you to take the time to help people the way you do.


----------



## MrGrinch

thestewman said:


> MrGrinch I think I found the problem with your ARC sub performance
> 
> It was noted I made a error in my posting about setting the high and low pass filters.
> My concern how I did this centered around the fact his sub had both a high and low pass control. Unusual for a sub. I checked further and found the manufacturer Definitive Technology has implemented a different kind of connection setup which centers round passing the signal through the sub and controlling your main speakers.
> 
> The following are the technical specifications for his sub:
> 
> Low-Level High-Pass Filter 12 dB/octave continuously variable(40 – 150 Hz)
> Speaker Level High-Pass Filter 6 dB/octave (80 Hz)
> Low-Level Low-Pass Filter 24 dB/octave continuously variable (40 – 150 Hz) plus unfiltered LFE direct coupled input
> 
> Manufacturers notes:
> 
> Low Pass Filter
> Your subwoofer’s back panel features a continuously variable low pass filter.
> This filter is continuously variable between 40 and 150 Hz. It rolls off the high frequency response of your subwoofer.
> This low pass filter control is used to obtain the optimum transition between the subwoofer and your main speakers. We receive many questions from subwoofer owners asking us where to set the filter controls in a variety of different setups. Although many people think that there is a specific frequency at which to set the controls in their system, this can only be determined by you. Experimentation is recommended (due to system placement and subjectivevariables) to obtain the best sound for you.
> 
> High Pass Filter
> Your subwoofer is equipped with a continuously variable high pass filter which is
> used when you wire the low-level inputs of your subwoofer to a full-range signal
> and the low-level outputs of your subwoofer to the left and right channel inputs of your amplifier. [See Diagram 3.] When hooked up thusly, it allows you to vary the low-frequency roll-off of your main speakers. This control only works using the low-level inputs and outputs.
> 
> *What I found is in your photo of your existing connections you have the Anthem sub output connected directly to the LFE input.*
> 
> I suggest you obtain a female input/double male output Y cable connector and connect the Anthem Sub 1 output to the subs low level inputs. Then set the low level control to its highest setting 140hz. The high pass control will not be activated or used
> 
> Now rerun ARC and post your charts.


I agree with the incredible response on this post! 

I did happen to run ARC again prior to reading the y cable suggestion.

Low Pass Crossover = 40
Phase Alignment = 0
High Pass Crossover = 150

Attached the results.... let me know if it still makes sense to try the y cable suggestion.


----------



## thestewman

thestewman said:


> I suggest you set the sub low pass filter to 180 or all the way right and the high pass filter to all the way left (max) or 40.
> Then I would redo ARC.





MrGrinch said:


> I agree with the incredible response on this post!
> 
> I did happen to run ARC again prior to reading the y cable suggestion.
> 
> Low Pass Crossover = 40
> Phase Alignment = 0
> High Pass Crossover = 150
> 
> Attached the results.... let me know if it still makes sense to try the y cable suggestion.


I know its complicated. If you still have the Anthem Sub 1 output connected to your subs LFE input the low pass and high pass sub settings are bypassed so it does not matter where they are positioned and you can disregard the y cable.

The sub graph shows the sub output is still pretty narrow.

Post your targets so we can make some additional changes. 
You will not have to rerun ARC.
Compare the attached graph. I know we cannot duplicate it but anything near it is what would be ideal.


----------



## RobDec

*ARC and/or PBK*

Hi
Looking to get a new sub, to replace my 13 year old Velodyne DD15. I favoring the Paradigm Prestige 2000SW. Should I just use ARC on my D2v 3D or use the PBK? Or both?
Also how does the 2000SW go with my processor? I have heard nothing but good things about it!

Thanks for any responses!

Rob


----------



## studlygoorite

RobDec said:


> Hi
> Looking to get a new sub, to replace my 13 year old Velodyne DD15. I favoring the Paradigm Prestige 2000SW. Should I just use ARC on my D2v 3D or use the PBK? Or both?
> Also how does the 2000SW go with my processor? I have heard nothing but good things about it!
> 
> Thanks for any responses!
> 
> Rob


As far as I know run PBK and then ARC


----------



## MrGrinch

thestewman said:


> I know its complicated. If you still have the Anthem Sub 1 output connected to your subs LFE input the low pass and high pass sub settings are bypassed so it does not matter where they are positioned and you can disregard the y cable.
> 
> The sub graph shows the sub output is still pretty narrow.
> 
> Post your targets so we can make some additional changes.
> You will not have to rerun ARC.
> Compare the attached graph. I know we cannot duplicate it but anything near it is what would be ideal.


Here are the targets...


----------



## AVfile

MrGrinch said:


> Attached the results.... let me know if it still makes sense to try the y cable suggestion.



Your results are fine. Since we went digital 15+ years ago all you need is the LFE input. The other inputs, outputs and associated filters are for analog stereo systems.


----------



## thestewman

MrGrinch said:


> Here are the targets...


Those settings do not look correct.
Please describe the speaker make and models you are using.
The surrounds should not have a cutoff of 110hz and the sub 85hz.
We can manually adjust it properly but I wonder why this occurred.

Please double check your connections to and from each speaker. 
Especially the surrounds and sub.


----------



## SimonNo10

Anyone want to comment on my ARC results post was 44476. Thanks in advance.


----------



## bekindrewind

Well it seems my D2v is not playing nice. Recently found out the HDMI-out #1 board has an intermittent problem of video going out. I'm using the HDMI-out #2 port, no problems with that port. 

I've had the unit out of the chain recently to try a replacement processor and receiver. Yesterday when I put the Dv2 back in, my speakers sound muddy. Loss of high's. None of the setting in the D2v have changed, that I noticed. (Sounds muddy on all sources, dvd, blu-ray, Tivo)

Confirmed it's not the Mcintosh amp nor the speakers, for the Denon receiver and the Marantz processor I'm trying in place of the D2v, speakers sound fine.

Is there some way to do a reset by turning the unit off, unplug, holding some buttons on the unit or remote when powering back on that will clear everything? A factory reset by chance?
I'm optimistic that may clear up the problem. 

Thoughts?


----------



## thestewman

bekindrewind said:


> Well it seems my D2v is not playing nice. Recently found out the HDMI-out #1 board has an intermittent problem of video going out. I'm using the HDMI-out #2 port, no problems with that port.
> 
> I've had the unit out of the chain recently to try a replacement processor and receiver. Yesterday when I put the Dv2 back in, my speakers sound muddy. Loss of high's. None of the setting in the D2v have changed, that I noticed. (Sounds muddy on all sources, dvd, blu-ray, Tivo)
> 
> Confirmed it's not the Mcintosh amp nor the speakers, for the Denon receiver and the Marantz processor I'm trying in place of the D2v, speakers sound fine.
> 
> Is there some way to do a reset by turning the unit off, unplug, holding some buttons on the unit or remote when powering back on that will clear everything? A factory reset by chance?
> I'm optimistic that may clear up the problem.
> 
> Thoughts?


Anthem Setup

Hopefully you have saved the USERS Settings previously
If not you should Save Users Settings
Then Load Default Savings and then Reload Load Users Settings
i believe using HDMI2 you will not have on screen display of settings.


----------



## ManWithAPlan

thestewman said:


> Anthem Setup
> i believe using HDMI2 you will not have on screen display of settings.


No, you will indeed...I use a little 7 inch monitor via HDMI2 out to a little monitor in my rack itself, and the Setup menus and settings appear there just fine. You just don't get OSD.


----------



## thestewman

ManWithAPlan said:


> No, you will indeed...I use a little 7 inch monitor via HDMI2 out to a little monitor in my rack itself, and the Setup menus and settings appear there just fine. You just don't get OSD.


I have never used the HDMI 2 output connector
So, I clearly understand.
Pressing and holding the Sub/LFE button until Setup appears works.
Pressing the Select button for the OSD does not work


----------



## ManWithAPlan

thestewman said:


> I have never used the HDMI 2 output connector
> So, I clearly understand.
> Pressing and holding the Sub/LFE button until Setup appears works.
> Pressing the Select button for the OSD does not work


Correct.


----------



## MrGrinch

thestewman said:


> Those settings do not look correct.
> Please describe the speaker make and models you are using.
> The surrounds should not have a cutoff of 110hz and the sub 85hz.
> We can manually adjust it properly but I wonder why this occurred.
> 
> Please double check your connections to and from each speaker.
> Especially the surrounds and sub.


Double checked the connections and all look good.

Front - B&W 804 D3
Center - B&W HTM2 D3
Surr - B&W 685 S2


----------



## thestewman

MrGrinch said:


> Double checked the connections and all look good.
> 
> Front - B&W 804 D3
> Center - B&W HTM2 D3
> Surr - B&W 685 S2


You posted this previously
Did the following prior to running ARC.

1. Save user settings.
2. Reset to Factory Default
3. Load user settings.
4. *Set all speakers to zero and balanced to 75db with spl meter*
5. ARC based on five microphone position

The speakers should all be set to zero and only the Left Front speaker is set to 75db.
ARC sets the levels as the test progresses
You do have to set the sub level at the sub not in the setup.
I don't have the answer why ARC set your speakers incorrectly. The B&W's have an excellent frequency response range and the surrounds should not have a cutoff of 110hz and the sub 85hz.

Three choices

Do nothing and continue to listen with the system crippled response.

Rerun ARC and as ARC runs make sure the speakers are being tested in exactly this order.
Starting with the Left Front, Center, Right Front, Right Surround, Left Surround and the Sub. Exactly in that order. If the previous test was in error maybe this test will be OK.

My Recommendation as a test

Connect your ARC USB cable to the Anthem
Open the ARC program. 
Select Manual or Existing file
Open your previous ARC file.
Select Target
Set the cutoff's as follows

Fronts 40
Center 50
Surrounds 60
Sub 120
Go to the advanced tab
Set Sub High Pass Order to FLAT
Calculate if it looks good Upload
Do this. Go to file and SAVE AS with a different file name. Then you will have your original targets to go back to if it does not sound good.
Post your graphs and listen to your system
Hope I didn't forget anything


----------



## AVfile

bekindrewind said:


> Well it seems my D2v is not playing nice. Recently found out the HDMI-out #1 board has an intermittent problem of video going out. I'm using the HDMI-out #2 port, no problems with that port.
> 
> 
> 
> I've had the unit out of the chain recently to try a replacement processor and receiver. Yesterday when I put the Dv2 back in, my speakers sound muddy. Loss of high's. None of the setting in the D2v have changed, that I noticed. (Sounds muddy on all sources, dvd, blu-ray, Tivo)
> 
> 
> 
> Confirmed it's not the Mcintosh amp nor the speakers, for the Denon receiver and the Marantz processor I'm trying in place of the D2v, speakers sound fine.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there some way to do a reset by turning the unit off, unplug, holding some buttons on the unit or remote when powering back on that will clear everything? A factory reset by chance?
> 
> I'm optimistic that may clear up the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?



Make sure you haven't accidentally engaged the tone controls. They should be set to bypassed. 

It's also possible your ARC solution has become corrupted. Try re-uploading it from your saved session on your computer. No need to go through the whole measurement process unless your have moved speakers or furniture. As a quick check turn off ROOM EQ for the source you are using to test. Even with NO ARC it should be a great sounding preamp.


----------



## AVfile

SimonNo10 said:


> Anyone want to comment on my ARC results post was 44476. Thanks in advance.



I've never seen ARC set room gain that low (0.8). The algorithm must have recognized the solid response of your sub because it ended up giving the mains a break below 100Hz. You could push the fronts a bit lower if you wanted but the sub is probably doing a better job filling in the bass. 

The HF looks solid out to 10k and maybe even 20k for those new Klipsch tripoles. Is the right rear in a corner by the way?

ARC appears to have also tamed a nasty midrange peak in your Center. 

You will definitely prefer the sound if this system with ARC ON and using the sub at all times.


----------



## AVfile

MrGrinch said:


> Double checked the connections and all look good.
> 
> 
> 
> Front - B&W 804 D3
> 
> Center - B&W HTM2 D3
> 
> Surr - B&W 685 S2



Check your crossovers in the SETUP menu and compare them to the "Response cutoffs" in the ARC Targets window. Did ARC set the crossover frequencies much differently than the values in the ARC Targets window? This is entirely possible, as the note in the middle of the window reminds us, the two sets of parameters have different meanings. Let us know the actual crossover values. 

Looking at the red measurement lines, the bass seems very peaky for your 685's (relatively small speakers). I'm guessing they are close to the walls. If the green target lines are to be believed, ARC made aggressive reductions in the bass peaks despite the seemingly high EQ cutoff value of 85Hz, which is good news but somewhat surprising. 

However I would be more concerned with the drop above 5 kHz in most of your green target lines, which is where ARC stops working by default. You should try raising it to 10 kHz. Assuming your measurements were valid (mic positioned correctly and pointed straight up at the ceiling) open your last saved ARC session. Set the Max EQ frequency to 10000 under your Music Config in the Targets window and then re-Calculate. Make sure you select to view the Music charts and compare them to the Movie charts. If they look good or interesting enough to try, just re-Upload. Once uploaded setup another source to use the Music EQ (with all other settings being equal to your Movie source) and you will have two ARC solutions at your fingertips.


----------



## SimonNo10

AVfile said:


> I've never seen ARC set room gain that low (0.8). The algorithm must have recognized the solid response of your sub because it ended up giving the mains a break below 100Hz. You could push the fronts a bit lower if you wanted but the sub is probably doing a better job filling in the bass.
> 
> The HF looks solid out to 10k and maybe even 20k for those new Klipsch tripoles. Is the right rear in a corner by the way?
> 
> ARC appears to have also tamed a nasty midrange peak in your Center.
> 
> You will definitely prefer the sound if this system with ARC ON and using the sub at all times.


Thanks for the feedback. You are correct that the Right Rear is in a corner near curtains and a window. I have a few room treatments on the side walls as well as diffusor panels on the ceiling (Had a professional company do room measurements and installed the panels), but that was when I had 2 submersives and not running a 7.1 system.


----------



## bekindrewind

4k workaround?
I don't believe the D2v can currently be upgraded to 4k.
Any rumors on that?
Using a 2 HDMI out 4k blu-ray is a work around.
What about streaming devices?
If streaming 4k from the tv, the tv's digital output is limited to lower quality digital formats.


----------



## MrGrinch

thestewman said:


> You posted this previously
> Did the following prior to running ARC.
> 
> 1. Save user settings.
> 2. Reset to Factory Default
> 3. Load user settings.
> 4. *Set all speakers to zero and balanced to 75db with spl meter*
> 5. ARC based on five microphone position
> 
> The speakers should all be set to zero and only the Left Front speaker is set to 75db.
> ARC sets the levels as the test progresses
> You do have to set the sub level at the sub not in the setup.
> I don't have the answer why ARC set your speakers incorrectly. The B&W's have an excellent frequency response range and the surrounds should not have a cutoff of 110hz and the sub 85hz.
> 
> Three choices
> 
> Do nothing and continue to listen with the system crippled response.
> 
> Rerun ARC and as ARC runs make sure the speakers are being tested in exactly this order.
> Starting with the Left Front, Center, Right Front, Right Surround, Left Surround and the Sub. Exactly in that order. If the previous test was in error maybe this test will be OK.
> 
> My Recommendation as a test
> 
> Connect your ARC USB cable to the Anthem
> Open the ARC program.
> Select Manual or Existing file
> Open your previous ARC file.
> Select Target
> Set the cutoff's as follows
> 
> Fronts 40
> Center 50
> Surrounds 60
> Sub 120
> Go to the advanced tab
> Set Sub High Pass Order to FLAT
> Calculate if it looks good Upload
> Do this. Go to file and SAVE AS with a different file name. Then you will have your original targets to go back to if it does not sound good.
> Post your graphs and listen to your system
> Hope I didn't forget anything


Quick recap:

Yes, my surrounds are right up against the wail.

Here is Anthem's actual crossover based on my last arc posting:

Fronts 60
Center 60
Sur 110
Sub 60

I moved forward with thestewman's suggestions and here is the new actual crossover:

Fronts 40
Center 50
Sur 60
Sub 50

Attached is the ARC results.


----------



## thestewman

MrGrinch said:


> Quick recap:
> 
> Yes, my surrounds are right up against the wail.
> 
> Here is Anthem's actual crossover based on my last arc posting:
> 
> Fronts 60
> Center 60
> Sur 110
> Sub 60
> 
> I moved forward with thestewman's suggestions and here is the new actual crossover:
> 
> Fronts 40
> Center 50
> Sur 60
> Sub 50
> 
> Attached is the ARC results.


The ARC graphs look much better.
I wonder what is causing the uncorrected peak in lower frequencies in your center speaker ?
ARC has corrected it but it does take some of ARC's processing power from what is available to accomplish it.

Have you listened to the system set up this way ?

I still would absolutely do this.

Open ARC and set the sub cutoff to 120 hz.

And if you did not do the following I suggest you try it.

Go to the advanced tab in Targets
Set Sub High Pass Order to FLAT
Now run Calculate in ARC
Upload to your AVM
Also. Go to file and click SAVE AS with a different file name. 
.
Post your graphs and targets again.
And listen to your system


----------



## shylock1955

Hi,
Hope I'm asking this in the right place? Anthem newbie here. I have an Anthem D2V 3D and after reading various posts saying that a Keyspan USB adapter was the way to go for connecting to a laptop with only usb ports, I bought one. However, I had some difficulty in actually connecting it to my Anthem. I put this down to the rather large casing which I subsequently unclipped. It now connects but this solution doesn't seem ideal. Is this the norm?


----------



## thestewman

shylock1955 said:


> Hi,
> Hope I'm asking this in the right place? Anthem newbie here. I have an Anthem D2V 3D and after reading various posts saying that a Keyspan USB adapter was the way to go for connecting to a laptop with only usb ports, I bought one. However, I had some difficulty in actually connecting it to my Anthem. I put this down to the rather large casing which I subsequently unclipped. It now connects but this solution doesn't seem ideal. Is this the norm?


Easiest method

StarTech.com 2m Black Straight Through DB9 RS232 Serial Cable - DB9 RS232 Serial Extension Cable - Male to Female Cable
or any similar RS232 DB9 cable of a convenient length.
You can leave it plugged in if it is more convenient

NOT a NULL Modem Cable


----------



## Bob Pariseau

shylock1955 said:


> Hi,
> Hope I'm asking this in the right place? Anthem newbie here. I have an Anthem D2V 3D and after reading various posts saying that a Keyspan USB adapter was the way to go for connecting to a laptop with only usb ports, I bought one. However, I had some difficulty in actually connecting it to my Anthem. I put this down to the rather large casing which I subsequently unclipped. It now connects but this solution doesn't seem ideal. Is this the norm?


The Keyspan is designed to be plugged directly into your computer. Then you use a straight-through (pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9) serial cable to run from the Keyspan to the back of the Anthem.
--Bob


----------



## gerard1meehan

*Munich 2016*

So last year at Munich High end Anthem announced the AVM 60. Do we anticipate any new goodies this year??


----------



## thestewman

Bob Pariseau said:


> The Keyspan is designed to be plugged directly into your computer. Then you use a straight-through (pins 1-9 connect to pins 1-9) serial cable to run from the Keyspan to the back of the Anthem.
> --Bob


Actually Bob the Keyspan including the one Anthem now supplies comes with a USB cable to go from your computer/laptop to the Keyspan.
You do need the serial cable. So the choice is to get a long serial cable with DB9 male and female connectors or get a short DB9 serial cable and a long USB cable.
Remembering not to get a NULL serial cable


----------



## shylock1955

thestewman said:


> Actually Bob the Keyspan including the one Anthem now supplies comes with a USB cable to go from your computer/laptop to the Keyspan.
> You do need the serial cable. So the choice is to get a long serial cable with DB9 male and female connectors or get a short DB9 serial cable and a long USB cable.
> Remembering not to get a NULL serial cable


Thanks for your quick responses. I shall be searching out a straight-through cable.


----------



## bekindrewind

shylock1955 said:


> Thanks for your quick responses. I shall be searching out a straight-through cable.


The Keyspan USB Serial Adapter I bought (p/n USA-19HS) needed their software installed to get the handshake to work. Anthem requires windows, so if you have an apple computer, you'll need to install windows first.


----------



## MrGrinch

thestewman said:


> The ARC graphs look much better.
> I wonder what is causing the uncorrected peak in lower frequencies in your center speaker ?
> ARC has corrected it but it does take some of ARC's processing power from what is available to accomplish it.
> 
> Have you listened to the system set up this way ?
> 
> I still would absolutely do this.
> 
> Open ARC and set the sub cutoff to 120 hz.
> 
> And if you did not do the following I suggest you try it.
> 
> Go to the advanced tab in Targets
> Set Sub High Pass Order to FLAT
> Now run Calculate in ARC
> Upload to your AVM
> Also. Go to file and click SAVE AS with a different file name.
> .
> Post your graphs and targets again.
> And listen to your system


Yes, I've been listening mostly to music and really enjoy the overall sound. The next few days will be focused on movies.

As for the last setting recommendations, both SUB120 and FLAT response were included in my ARC upload.

The previous post were the AVM and ARC Graph results. I am not sure why the AVM displays SUB 50.


----------



## thestewman

MrGrinch said:


> Yes, I've been listening mostly to music and really enjoy the overall sound. The next few days will be focused on movies.
> 
> As for the last setting recommendations, both SUB120 and FLAT response were included in my ARC upload.
> 
> The previous post were the AVM and ARC Graph results. I am not sure why the AVM displays SUB 50.


The Sub 50 is worth investigating. There are a number of possibilities.
Run ARC on your laptop or PC and load the last ARC file you used.
Open Targets and double check SUB is still at 120.
You could also try opening the Speaker config and manually setting the sub xover to 120hz. 
Just to check the obvious you do have EQ turned On in the sources you are listening to ?
The sub using LFE as the input is supposed to bypass all the controls 
There is always the possibility the sub is not operating correctly


----------



## studlygoorite

Hi all, I posted this in the AVM 60 thread but no replies yet, thought maybe some veterans from here might have some input.

Hello, I just ran ARC 2 for the first time, I had done it dozens of times with my D2v but it has been a while and I think I screwed something up. I went into the menu and level calibration, test noise on and then I set the calibration level to what my SPL Meter read at 75dBs, the result was setting the level at plus 10dB. After I ran ARC it set all my levels at max (plus 12dB) so something must be wrong. I ran ARC twice with the same result, any ideas?


----------



## thestewman

studlygoorite said:


> Hi all, I posted this in the AVM 60 thread but no replies yet, thought maybe some veterans from here might have some input.
> 
> Hello, I just ran ARC 2 for the first time, I had done it dozens of times with my D2v but it has been a while and I think I screwed something up. I went into the menu and level calibration, test noise on and then I set the calibration level to what my SPL Meter read at 75dBs, the result was setting the level at plus 10dB. After I ran ARC it set all my levels at max (plus 12dB) so something must be wrong. I ran ARC twice with the same result, any ideas?


Studly

From Bob Pariseau

Should still be the proper way to set up ARC
Check that you have not raised or lowered the individual speakers with the remote control

Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB. Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up). Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.

*[ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]*

Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position. There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.

ARC will use the Noise Level setting you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones, and the adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, can be level adjusted properly to match. If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.

Back out of the Setup menu. Run the ARC application.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ For ARC2 with the AVM 60, I think you'll get best results if you leave Test Noise untouched (i.e., at 0dB) and then re-Measure.

There's something weird going on between ARC2 and the AVM 60 which can cause it to try to upload speaker levels beyond the +12dB max allowed by the AVM 60. If you go into the Targets window in your ARC2 results file you'll find a new tab which will let you see the levels it would like to upload. They may be things like +15dB or so.
--Bob


----------



## studlygoorite

Much better, thanks guys, no need to set the volume to 75dB I guess, ARC still boosted my speaker levels anywhere between 3 and 7 and I notice every time it sets my fronts crossover to 180Hz, they are Paradigm S8s and I did recently move them a tad closer to the front wall, now just 10" from the wall, me thinks ARC is detecting all the bass they put out because of this and is cutting them down. Anywho I manually set them to 80Hz like the center and surrounds and will give a listen. Wireless ARC 2, when connected is a nice touch and ARC 2 is much quicker than ARC 1


----------



## thestewman

studlygoorite said:


> Much better, thanks guys, no need to set the volume to 75dB I guess, ARC still boosted my speaker levels anywhere between 3 and 7 and I notice every time it sets my fronts crossover to 180Hz, they are Paradigm S8s and I did recently move them a tad closer to the front wall, now just 10" from the wall, me thinks ARC is detecting all the bass they put out because of this and is cutting them down. Anywho I manually set them to 80Hz like the center and surrounds and will give a listen. Wireless ARC 2, when connected is a nice touch and ARC 2 is much quicker than ARC 1


Hopefully you did not set the S8s to Large in the setup as that would send them the bass that should go to the sub.

When you say the crossover is 180hz are you actually referring to the Target Cutoffs ?
I would think it should be about 50hz or 60hz as Paradigm specs say they are good to 39HZ.

10" is pretty close to any wall for your left and right fronts


----------



## studlygoorite

thestewman said:


> Hopefully you did not set the S8s to Large in the setup as that would send them the bass that should go to the sub.
> 
> When you say the crossover is 180hz are you actually referring to the Target Cutoffs ?
> I would think it should be about 50hz or 60hz as Paradigm specs say they are good to 39HZ.
> 
> 10" is pretty close to any wall for your left and right fronts


It's not like ARC 1 where you can check the cutoffs and crossovers, unless there is something I am missing, on the unit itself it calls them crossovers but on the laptop they are called equalization cutoffs, so I am not really sure. ARC 1 set my S8s to 60Hz when I had them 2 feet from the front wall, I moved them back to try and get more space between the projector and the screen to tighten up the picture. Might have to move the screen and speakers further away from the wall so I can get the best sound I can, that said, ARC has corrected all responses perfectly.


----------



## Ed Weinman

Is the Anthem Statement at the end of it's video processing career now that 4K is here? Will it only be useful as a surround processor?


----------



## dreamhomecinema

iam from india my speakers ATC SCM 110 FL, FR, and center saround ATC SCM 100 suboofers PARADIGM SUB 2 , SUB 25 , and genelec 7270 and all that operating with ANTHEM D2V 3D processor i want sub woofer setting to chest punch ferquncy gain pls how can adjest sub woofers chest punch and bullet punch in subwoofer and which ferquncy i feel some times its 46 hz 2 to 3 db gain is punch is good than k u


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ First make sure you have Phase set correctly for the Subs. That means matching in Phase for each of the Subs with respect to each other and also for the Subs with respect to the main speakers. (The usual trick is to use Left Front as a surrogate for all the main speakers.) Since the Anthem only has one Phase control, which alters all the Sub outputs the same way, adjusting Phase BETWEEN the Subs (which is a function of their relative distance, their placement in the room, and internal delays in each sub) will require you INSTEAD use individual Phase controls found on each of the Subs.

If your Subs are not matched in Phase then you will lose bass punch due to cancellation since the subs are all producing the same waveforms at the same time, and the standing waves produced, if out of Phase, will cancel out.

There is a whole forum here devoted to subs where you can get advice on how to set up a complicated subwoofer system like this.

Once you have your set of Subs in phase, you can Measure with ARC for your D2v 3D and see what your bass response actually is, and what ARC is able to do to correct room issues. But ARC can not fix Phase problems because it hears all the subs playing at the same time. That's why you have to tackle Phase first.

Pay particular attention to the range from 30Hz to 50Hz as that's where you will find most of the energy for bass sound effects, as well as bass musical instruments. However, the bass you feel more than hear is found below 30Hz. Check how your combo of subs is rolling off at the lowest frequencies. Ideally you'd like to get decent bass response from them down another full octave, to 15Hz. If your subs have their own internal protection against loud bass input too low in frequency you can turn off the built-in roll off down there that ARC provides, by default, for protection. In the Targets > Advanced settings for the Sub you can select Flat.
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

dreamhomecinema said:


> iam from india my speakers ATC SCM 110 FL, FR, and center saround ATC SCM 100 suboofers PARADIGM SUB 2 , SUB 25 , and genelec 7270 and all that operating with ANTHEM D2V 3D processor i want sub woofer setting to chest punch ferquncy gain pls how can adjest sub woofers chest punch and bullet punch in subwoofer and which ferquncy i feel some times its 46 hz 2 to 3 db gain is punch is good than k u


What you are looking for that kick in the chest kick will not come from your SUBs. No matter how many or how big they are. 
The pro music guys use multiple drivers in the 100 -200 khz range with lots of power in just that range to give you that kick in the chest. 
I suggest you visit a pro music company who does large venues instead of your home theater store and they can show you how how it is done.


----------



## studlygoorite

thestewman said:


> What you are looking for that kick in the chest kick will not come from your SUBs. No matter how many or how big they are.
> The pro music guys use multiple drivers in the 100 -200 khz range with lots of power in just that range to give you that kick in the chest.
> I suggest you visit a pro music company who does large venues instead of your home theater store and they can show you how how it is done.


Agreed, I first bought the Sub 2 looking for that chest punch, I quickly found out that with the low distortion the Sub 2 puts out I could not get the chest punch I wanted. You might try placing the sub, or one of the subs, directly behind your main seating position. After listening to my setup for a bit I chose the incredible deep, tight bass of the Sub 2 instead of the distorted chest punch I wanted for loud music, plus I am older now  By the way, good luck trying to match up your Sub 2 with the Sub 25, I could not get my Sub 2 to match up with my two Servo 15s as the Sub 2 was so much better so I got rid of the Servos and am living happily ever after with just the Sub 2.


----------



## dreamhomecinema

Thank u for response and reply Give me advice if use dainly Dts 10 tapped horn subwoofer can I get chest punch it very big two 12" tapped horn drivers


----------



## thestewman

Not familiar with the horn sub you stated. No Sub woofer will not give you the hammer in the chest you want.Only high decibel multi driver low mid range.


----------



## MrGrinch

thestewman said:


> The Sub 50 is worth investigating. There are a number of possibilities.
> Run ARC on your laptop or PC and load the last ARC file you used.
> Open Targets and double check SUB is still at 120.
> You could also try opening the Speaker config and manually setting the sub xover to 120hz.
> Just to check the obvious you do have EQ turned On in the sources you are listening to ?
> The sub using LFE as the input is supposed to bypass all the controls
> There is always the possibility the sub is not operating correctly


I had to manually set the sub xover to 120 on the AVM. I am not certain why the upload is sending the incorrect values. Also, why is the sub xover not around 80?

I will try AVFILE's suggestion with setting the MAX EQ=10,000 for the the MUSIC config. (Attached the ARC results.)

Even with the few minor quirks listed above, this is the best my system has sounded!


----------



## thestewman

MrGrinch said:


> Quick recap:
> 
> Yes, my surrounds are right up against the wail.
> 
> Here is Anthem's actual crossover based on my last arc posting:
> 
> Fronts 60
> Center 60
> Sur 110
> Sub 60
> 
> I moved forward with thestewman's suggestions and here is the new actual crossover:
> 
> Fronts 40
> Center 50
> Sur 60
> Sub 50
> 
> Attached is the ARC results.





MrGrinch said:


> I had to manually set the sub xover to 120 on the AVM. I am not certain why the upload is sending the incorrect values. Also, why is the sub xover not around 80?
> 
> I will try AVFILE's suggestion with setting the MAX EQ=10,000 for the the MUSIC config. (Attached the ARC results.)
> 
> Even with the few minor quirks listed above, this is the best my system has sounded!


I agree. No reason for the Anthem ARC to be setting those cutoffs
Unless something is wrong with your individual speaker setups.
Personnally now that you have posted your new settings I like the graphs and charts from 
5/8 that you posted.
The fronts, surrounds and center all go higher and smoother set at 5000
And the sub went lower without a dramatic cutoff below 50hz.
I would reset them and upload and listen again to the results.
Should be clearer up high and smoother from your sub.
Oh the quest for good sound !


----------



## stanger89

MrGrinch said:


> I had to manually set the sub xover to 120 on the AVM. I am not certain why the upload is sending the incorrect values. Also, why is the sub xover not around 80?


The frequency listed for subwoofer is not a crossover, it's the max EQ frequency for the LFE channel. Arc will EQ your sub/LFE up to 120Hz, which is entirely appropriate:
http://www.dolby.com/uploadedFiles/Assets/US/Doc/Professional/38_LFE.pdf


----------



## thestewman

MrGrinch said:


> I had to manually set the sub xover to 120 on the AVM. I am not certain why the upload is sending the incorrect values. Also, why is the sub xover not around 80?
> 
> I will try AVFILE's suggestion with setting the MAX EQ=10,000 for the the MUSIC config. (Attached the ARC results.)
> 
> Even with the few minor quirks listed above, this is the best my system has sounded!





stanger89 said:


> The frequency listed for subwoofer is not a crossover, it's the max EQ frequency for the LFE channel. Arc will EQ your sub/LFE up to 120Hz, which is entirely appropriate:
> http://www.dolby.com/uploadedFiles/Assets/US/Doc/Professional/38_LFE.pdf


Great information stanger89. After reading the PDF I went back and rechecked some of the information. The ARC setting of the sub to 50 or 60hz must be incorrect.

Here is what I noted,
From the Def Tech manual

Most often used is the LFE connection. Most receivers, preamps and decoders
feature a mono (line level) LFE/subwoofer output intended to be used with subwoofers.
You can feed the mono or LFE subwoofer output of your receiver or
decoder to the LFE input on the subwoofer and achieve full performance. [See
Diagram 1.] Usually, these outputs have their own low-pass filter built into the
circuit, and if this is the case, you would normally input them into the LFE input.
The LFE inputs on your SuperCube subwoofer are direct coupled inputs which are
not affected by the subwoofer’s low-pass filter or low-pass crossover control. If the
sub or LFE output on your receiver or decoder does not have a low-pass crossover
or you wish to use the SuperCube subwoofer’s low-pass crossover and control in
addition to the low-pass crossover in your decoder, simply plug the sub or LFE
output of your decoder into the left or right low-level input of your SuperCube
subwoofer. However, in almost all cases, a dedicated LFE output already has its
program material tailored for input into an unfiltered LFE input and as such
should be fed into the LFE input on your SuperCube.
Alternately, another way to hook up your Definitive Technology SuperCube
subwoofer is via the low-level input connectors which are gold-plated RCA-type
jacks designed to accept standard audio interconnect cables. For preamps and
decoders, run an interconnect from the left and right outputs of the preamp or
decoder to the left and right low-level inputs on the subwoofer. If you have two
sets of outputs, you can use one set of these; if not, you can put a Y-connector into
each output (left and right) and run half of each Y back into a (left and right) main
input on the preamp decoder, receiver or power amp and the other half into the
(left and right) low-level input on the subwoofer

Then read carefully the LFE/subwoofer information From stanger89s PDF on LFE.


I return again to my original idea that connecting the Anthem to the subs LFE input is incorrect for Anthem ARC and you should follow my original connection directions for low level connections.

Obtain a female input/double male output Y cable connector and connect the Anthem Sub 1 output to the subs low level inputs. Then set the low pass level control to its highest setting 140hz. The high pass control should be at its lowest setting
Now rerun ARC and post your charts.


----------



## AVfile

dreamhomecinema said:


> Thank u for response and reply Give me advice if use dainly Dts 10 tapped horn subwoofer can I get chest punch it very big two 12" tapped horn drivers



Are you running ARC like Bob said?


----------



## AVfile

MrGrinch said:


> I had to manually set the sub xover to 120 on the AVM. I am not certain why the upload is sending the incorrect values. Also, why is the sub xover not around 80?
> 
> 
> 
> I will try AVFILE's suggestion with setting the MAX EQ=10,000 for the the MUSIC config. (Attached the ARC results.)



It looks like you did it, response is helped somewhat out to 10-15k instead of dropping off at 6-7k!

However by forcing the sub xover to 120 on the AVM you are breaking your ARC solution. Don't expect to see the exact same numbers on the AVM as in the ARC targets window (as the notes explain). I don't know why it is setting it drastically lower in your case but it happens some times. I suspect it will not be resolved unless you move sub/spkrs around, have sub hooked up wrong or sub is not functioning correctly as Stewman suggested.


----------



## MrGrinch

Here is an update....

1. Connected y-cable to sub low level in, 
2. Moved surround speakers very slightly away from wall
3. Saved user config
4. Factory reset
5. Load user config
6. ARC based on five speaker positions (attached results)

AVM crossovers:


Fronts - 60
Center - 60
Surrounds - 60
Sub - 60


----------



## thestewman

MrGrinch said:


> Here is an update....
> 
> 1. Connected y-cable to sub low level in,
> 2. Moved surround speakers very slightly away from wall
> 3. Saved user config
> 4. Factory reset
> 5. Load user config
> 6. ARC based on five speaker positions (attached results)
> 
> AVM crossovers:
> 
> 
> Fronts - 60
> Center - 60
> Surrounds - 60
> Sub - 60


The corrected results are pretty good.
One more suggestion
In targets go to advanced and change Auto to flat
Then raise the sub cutoffs in target to 120
Run calculate and then upload it to your AVM. You do not need to run ARC again.
Post the results here and listen to how it sounds


----------



## AVfile

Tweeters are tanking at 6-7k again.


----------



## thestewman

AVfile said:


> Tweeters are tanking at 6-7k again.


For information

Anthem ARC Room EQ Interview with Dr. Peter Schuck and Nick Platsis
Audioholics by	Theo Nicolakis — October 08, 2014

Audioholics: ARC comes with a calibrated, serialized, USB microphone. Are there any limitations with the microphone's measurements or does it measure accurately from 20Hz - 20kHz?

Nick Platsis: It is reliable up to 5 kHz. After that it starts becoming too directional with increasing frequency. Maximum correction range for MRX receivers is 5 kHz. This is the normally recommended setting, and the default, in all versions of ARC and is user adjustable down to 200 Hz. In AVM/D it can be set as high as 20 kHz, but effectiveness of correction at these upper frequencies often depends on whether the tweeters (and mic) are at ear level. A listening test is the best way to find out.


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## tranle

MrGrinch said:


> Here is an update....
> 
> 1. Connected y-cable to sub low level in,
> 2. Moved surround speakers very slightly away from wall
> 3. Saved user config
> 4. Factory reset
> 5. Load user config
> 6. ARC based on five speaker positions (attached results)
> 
> AVM crossovers:
> 
> 
> Fronts - 60
> Center - 60
> Surrounds - 60
> Sub - 60


From your graphs, your left surround tweeter seems weak. You should switch your left-surround with the right-surround and re-measure to check if it is really the surround-tweeter or just the location of the speaker.


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## thestewman

tranle said:


> From your graphs, your left surround tweeter seems weak. You should switch your left-surround with the right-surround and re-measure to check if it is really the surround-tweeter or just the location of the speaker.






Maybe you missed it but his posted charts for the surround speakers are different and confusing. The left chart goes from 20hz to 20 khz. The right surround speaker chart only goes from 50hz to 5khz. Makes the charts vastly different.


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## MrGrinch

Updated charts with sub xover @120 & flat.

AVM Settings after upload

Fronts - 60
Center - 60
Surrounds - 60
Sub - 60

I am curious that the sub xover did not change on the AVM after the upload.


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## MrGrinch

Did a MUSIC config with Max EQ Freq=10000

All other settings same as post above.

Attached charts.


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## thestewman

MrGrinch said:


> Updated charts with sub xover @120 & flat.
> 
> AVM Settings after upload
> 
> Fronts - 60
> Center - 60
> Surrounds - 60
> Sub - 60
> 
> I am curious that the sub xover did not change on the AVM after the upload.


I know this is getting to be a lot of work but there is still a problem with the sub.
If you look at your prior sub chart you will see it follows the blue dashed line exactly as it should. This one does not at all. It is terrible.
Please reset the Advanced tab back to Auto and recompute and upload a new setup. Leave the cutoff at 120hz. 
Double check that you set the low pass level control to its highest setting 140hz. The high pass control should be at its lowest setting and its very important they were correctly set when you last remeasured

Post your Charts and the Targets.
Maybe the sub is defective as the manufacturer specs show it is more capable.
The other speakers are fine


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## AVfile

thestewman said:


> If you look at your prior sub chart you will see it follows the blue dashed line exactly as it should. This one does not at all. It is terrible.
> 
> Please reset the Advanced tab back to Auto and recompute and upload a new setup. Leave the cutoff at 120hz. Post your Charts and the Targets.



If HPF "auto" doesn't do it I would go back to HPF "flat" and Sub 80 or whatever it takes to improve the sub before uploading. It is best to change one thing at a time, recalc, and check the charts before uploading.


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## AVfile

MrGrinch said:


> Here is an update....
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Connected y-cable to sub low level in,



Did regressing to using the sub inputs designed for analog stereos help anything? I guess it is hard to tell since you changed other variables as well like moving speakers. Once you get the sub chart back under control I suggest reverting to the normal LFE input and see what happens to the chart, unless you've already determined that input is defective (I haven't gone back to look at your old charts). Unfortunately you would have to re-measure.


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## thestewman

AVfile said:


> Did regressing to using the sub inputs designed for analog stereos help anything? I guess it is hard to tell since you changed other variables as well like moving speakers. Once you get the sub chart back under control I suggest reverting to the normal LFE input and see what happens to the chart, unless you've already determined that input is defective (I haven't gone back to look at your old charts). Unfortunately you would have to re-measure.


We changed the sub input going under the assumption as Anthem states they send low freq sub signal and LFE whereas the LFE input is not setup for both.


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## MrGrinch

thestewman said:


> I know this is getting to be a lot of work but there is still a problem with the sub.
> If you look at your prior sub chart you will see it follows the blue dashed line exactly as it should. This one does not at all. It is terrible.
> Please reset the Advanced tab back to Auto and recompute and upload a new setup. Leave the cutoff at 120hz.
> Double check that you set the low pass level control to its highest setting 140hz. The high pass control should be at its lowest setting and its very important they were correctly set when you last remeasured
> 
> Post your Charts and the Targets.
> Maybe the sub is defective as the manufacturer specs show it is more capable.
> The other speakers are fine


It appears that I have the low pass control at the lowest and the high pass control at the highest. I will correct, re-measure?


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## thestewman

MrGrinch said:


> It appears that I have the low pass control at the lowest and the high pass control at the highest. I will correct, re-measure?


Absolutely, Yes remeasure


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## MrGrinch

Updated charts....

AVM Settings after upload

Fronts - 60
Center - 60
Surrounds - 60
Sub - 60


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## thestewman

MrGrinch said:


> Updated charts....
> 
> AVM Settings after upload
> 
> Fronts - 60
> Center - 60
> Surrounds - 60
> Sub - 60


Best charts yet and the sub should sound even better now.
How does it sound with various media ?


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## AVfile

thestewman said:


> We changed the sub input going under the assumption as Anthem states they send low freq sub signal and LFE whereas the LFE input is not setup for both.


The LFE input is direct with no filters and doesn't care if the signal also contains redirected bass. It is the correct input to use for a dedicated sub channel unless it is broken.


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## budeone

Looks like I am jumping on the 4K system. LG just came out with a great looking 65 TV. I have loved my AVM-50V and all these great guys helping me over the years. I just don't see needing this type of unit. I asked Anthem if it will be able to be upgraded, they said no.

What are some of you other guys going to do? There has to be something with the quality of Anthem that does 4k and amazing sound.


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## stanger89

I sold my AVM50V and amp and got an MRX1120. I haven't noticed any change in audio quality.


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## thestewman

budeone said:


> Looks like I am jumping on the 4K system. LG just came out with a great looking 65 TV. I have loved my AVM-50V and all these great guys helping me over the years. I just don't see needing this type of unit. I asked Anthem if it will be able to be upgraded, they said no.
> 
> What are some of you other guys going to do? There has to be something with the quality of Anthem that does 4k and amazing sound.


If there is such a unit no one has been talking about it.
The Anthem AVM 60 is as good as you can get and should equal your AVM50 though I am not aware that anyone has said the sound is as good as a D2v.
If you like your AVM50 why not continue to use it by running 2 HDMI cables. One direct to your display and the other to the Anthem for sound.


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## budeone

thestewman said:


> If there is such a unit no one has been talking about it.
> The Anthem AVM 60 is as good as you can get and should equal your AVM50 though I am not aware that anyone has said the sound is as good as a D2v.
> If you like your AVM50 why not continue to use it by running 2 HDMI cables. One direct to your display and the other to the Anthem for sound.


I have to read about this 60. I just pulled it up. It looks like I will get the sound I love from Anthem and 4k will just pass right through it. The only thing it does not do is video processing. This cool.. Thanks thestewman


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## thestewman

budeone said:


> I have to read about this 60. I just pulled it up. It looks like I will get the sound I love from Anthem and 4k will just pass right through it. The only thing it does not do is video processing. This cool.. Thanks thestewman


Just a quick heads up most of the new units do not do video processing. It is one of the things the units become "old" with right away as the technology is progressing so fast.
Again your AVM50 can be used. I watch 4k with my D2v by bypassing the video direct to m 4k display and I am not giving anything away except the new multichannel audio formats.


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## MrGrinch

thestewman said:


> Best charts yet and the sub should sound even better now.
> How does it sound with various media ?


At this point I am very pleased with the results.

Music (CD, Vinyl or Squeezebox) sounds incredible! 

Movies (Oppo 103d) take some 'effort' at times. Volume levels can range from -25 to -10 depending on material. 

Any reason to change sub targets in advanced from Auto to Flat?

Or

MUSIC config with Max EQ Freq=10000?


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## thestewman

MrGrinch said:


> At this point I am very pleased with the results.
> 
> Music (CD, Vinyl or Squeezebox) sounds incredible!
> 
> Movies (Oppo 103d) take some 'effort' at times. Volume levels can range from -25 to -10 depending on material.
> 
> Any reason to change sub targets in advanced from Auto to Flat?
> 
> Or
> 
> MUSIC config with Max EQ Freq=10000?


I think not. The sub chart looks good and the sub is doing all it can without over driving it.
I don't agree in bumping the Max freq to more than 5 khz. It is not recommended by Anthem or the ARC designers as the microphone was not designed for it
The displayed volume levels are relative and vary from source to source or the media being played. Use any sound level that appeals to you but don't damage your speakers or your ears.
Enjoy the sounds your hearing


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## sfm

budeone said:


> Looks like I am jumping on the 4K system. LG just came out with a great looking 65 TV. I have loved my AVM-50V and all these great guys helping me over the years. I just don't see needing this type of unit. I asked Anthem if it will be able to be upgraded, they said no.
> 
> What are some of you other guys going to do? There has to be something with the quality of Anthem that does 4k and amazing sound.


I've been running a D2 for nearly 10 years... but I wanted to support 4K (down the road) and have recently installed a 7.1.4 atmos speaker setup in our theater so I needed to "upgrade". I went with a AVM60 and haven't looked back. While I was not able to A/B between the D2/AVM60 properly from an audio standpoint the material that I am very familiar with sounds, to my ears, very much the same as it did before. The lack of video processing in the AVM60 (well, it does process but only enough to support the OSD) I actually like as I have a Lumagen (haven't used the D2 video for years). I did compare the video from "source -> Lumagen -> Projector" to "source -> Lumagen -> AVM60 -> Projector" and couldn't detect any difference indicating that the AVM60 is, for all intents and purposes, transparent. So I am now using "source -> AVM60 -> Lumagen -> Projector" for my video chain and have my pre/pro OSD back (which I was only able to view previously by switching projector inputs).


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## Nicoff

sfm said:


> I've been running a D2 for nearly 10 years... but I wanted to support 4K (down the road) and have recently installed a 7.1.4 atmos speaker setup in our theater so I needed to "upgrade". I went with a AVM60 and haven't looked back. While I was not able to A/B between the D2/AVM60 properly from an audio standpoint the material that I am very familiar with sounds, to my ears, very much the same as it did before. The lack of video processing in the AVM60 (well, it does process but only enough to support the OSD) I actually like as I have a Lumagen (haven't used the D2 video for years). I did compare the video from "source -> Lumagen -> Projector" to "source -> Lumagen -> AVM60 -> Projector" and couldn't detect any difference indicating that the AVM60 is, for all intents and purposes, transparent. So I am now using "source -> AVM60 -> Lumagen -> Projector" for my video chain and have my pre/pro OSD back (which I was only able to view previously by switching projector inputs).


I am a former D2 owner and had not visited this thread in a while. When I read your post, I agreed that AVM 60 + Lumagen looks like a good solution at probably half the cost. Congrats!


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## budeone

I am selling my AVM-50 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/210-video-source-items/2500986-anthem-avm50-v.html

If anybody is interested. Its time to move on.


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## BuckeyeAmps

ARC-1 question:
Is there anyway to get the Anthem Mic to work on a Windows 10 PC with only USB 3.0 ports? 

I had an MRX520 briefly with Arc 1M and it worked completely fine on my Windows 10 PC (Asus Maximus Gene VIII motherboard with only USB 3.0 ports) but had to sell for money and just purchased a used MRX 700. No issues at all communicating with the receiver using a Keyspan adapter, but no matter what I do I cannot get Windows to recognize the microphone. It either shows up as Arc 1M, tARC AN, or Generic Audio Device all with an exclamation mark due to a Code 10 error ('This device will not start"). If I try to manually force it to update the driver using the driver file from the ARC installation software, it tells me the driver is up to date. Tried disabling all other audio drivers and restarting the PC, no go. I even just tried a USB 2.0 motherboard PCI card but the microphone still gives an error under device manager (this time Code 43, "Windows has stopped this device due to an error"). 

I tried my fiancee's laptop, which also has Windows 10 and only USB 3.0 ports and it is the same exact issue as above. I even tried installing the ARC 1M software to see if it's drivers (which worked with the Anthem microphone that came in my now sold MRX520) would fix the issue and it doesn't. No matter what I do the microphone will not work (seller, who is very reputable, assured me microphone worked fine for him with no issues on Windows 7). My fiancee has an old Windows 8 laptop but forgot the password so I need to reset it and than will try if the mic works on at least Windows 8 with USB 2.0 ports. 

In the meantime, is there a known issue with ARC-1 on Windows 10 and/or USB 3.0 that is not fixable?
Would getting a cheap USB 2.0 hub work (I have heard it fixes issues with older USB devices that have trouble working on USB 3.0 ports)?

Thanks!


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## Apgood

BigCoolJesus said:


> ARC-1 question:
> Is there anyway to get the Anthem Mic to work on a Windows 10 PC with only USB 3.0 ports?
> 
> I had an MRX520 briefly with Arc 1M and it worked completely fine on my Windows 10 PC (Asus Maximus Gene VIII motherboard with only USB 3.0 ports) but had to sell for money and just purchased a used MRX 700. No issues at all communicating with the receiver using a Keyspan adapter, but no matter what I do I cannot get Windows to recognize the microphone. It either shows up as Arc 1M, tARC AN, or Generic Audio Device all with an exclamation mark due to a Code 10 error ('This device will not start"). If I try to manually force it to update the driver using the driver file from the ARC installation software, it tells me the driver is up to date. Tried disabling all other audio drivers and restarting the PC, no go. I even just tried a USB 2.0 motherboard PCI card but the microphone still gives an error under device manager (this time Code 43, "Windows has stopped this device due to an error").
> 
> I tried my fiancee's laptop, which also has Windows 10 and only USB 3.0 ports and it is the same exact issue as above. I even tried installing the ARC 1M software to see if it's drivers (which worked with the Anthem microphone that came in my now sold MRX520) would fix the issue and it doesn't. No matter what I do the microphone will not work (seller, who is very reputable, assured me microphone worked fine for him with no issues on Windows 7). My fiancee has an old Windows 8 laptop but forgot the password so I need to reset it and than will try if the mic works on at least Windows 8 with USB 2.0 ports.
> 
> In the meantime, is there a known issue with ARC-1 on Windows 10 and/or USB 3.0 that is not fixable?
> Would getting a cheap USB 2.0 hub work (I have heard it fixes issues with older USB devices that have trouble working on USB 3.0 ports)?
> 
> Thanks!


I have an MRX700 and use windows 10 too. I tried a usb 2.0 hub but it didn't work, but the usb 2.0 ports on the MS Surface pro 3 docking station do work.

You sure your motherboard doesn't have any usb 2.0 ports? I have the Asus Maximus VIII Hero motherboard and it has 2 x usb 2.0 ports under the keyboard/mouse ps2 port.

Also make sure you uninstall the ARC M1 microphone driver and delete it from your system as it may be messing things up.

Sent from my LG-D802T using Tapatalk


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## BuckeyeAmps

Apgood said:


> I have an MRX700 and use windows 10 too. I tried a usb 2.0 hub but it didn't work, but the usb 2.0 ports on the MS Surface pro 3 docking station do work.
> 
> You sure your motherboard doesn't have any usb 2.0 ports? I have the Asus Maximus VIII Hero motherboard and it has 2 x usb 2.0 ports under the keyboard/mouse ps2 port.
> 
> Also make sure you uninstall the ARC M1 microphone driver and delete it from your system as it may be messing things up.
> 
> Sent from my LG-D802T using Tapatalk


Absolutely no USB 2.0 ports on my motherboard. It has USB 2.0 headers on the motherboard itself but when I tried using them with an add on USB 2.0 controller it still didn't work probably due to the fact that those USB 2.0 headers still run off the Intel USB 3.0 driver/software. 

And all of the previous drivers were uninstalled. 

About to try my fiancée's Windows 8 laptop. 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## Apgood

Checked the ASUS website and see what you mean.

So even the usb 2.0 motherboard headers don't work? That's a bit strange.

Sounds like I'm lucky that the ARC mic detects properly on the Surface Pro docking station.

By the way I've been told it is only the ARC mics that have a serial number that starts with 2 that have this problem, so if you can get it to work on the old laptop an option is to contact Anthem about buying a new ARC microphone that works with usb 3, but no idea how much they cost.

Sent from my LG-D802T using Tapatalk


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## BuckeyeAmps

It has to be the mic itself. Wouldn't work at all on the Windows 8 laptop. So I even pulled out an old old old Windows Vista desktop tower PC and no go on that either.

Going to email Anthem and see how much a replacement will cost. And check eBay.


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## Apgood

Man that bites

Sent from my LG-D802T using Tapatalk


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## Apgood

BigCoolJesus said:


> It has to be the mic itself. Wouldn't work at all on the Windows 8 laptop. So I even pulled out an old old old Windows Vista desktop tower PC and no go on that either.
> 
> Going to email Anthem and see how much a replacement will cost. And check eBay.


Found this one on ebay and mic serial number starts with a 3 based on what I've read previously it should work with a USB3.0 port, but Anthem support should be able to confirm this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-in-Box-...639887?hash=item4b031adf0f:g:964AAOSwhOVXdDau


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## BuckeyeAmps

Apgood said:


> Found this one on ebay and mic serial number starts with a 3 based on what I've read previously it should work with a USB3.0 port, but Anthem support should be able to confirm this.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-in-Box-...639887?hash=item4b031adf0f:g:964AAOSwhOVXdDau


I found another one with a '3' serial # that's cheaper, also new in box. 

Before I pull the trigger...an ARC 1M kit will work just fine too, right? If I go to the support section of Anthem, a microphone serial # works for both ARC-1 and ARC-1M downloads and the mic calibration file for both downloads is identical. As far as I can tell, if I get an ARC-1M kit and use the mic cal file from it with the ARC-1 software there shouldn't be any issues. 

I ask because I have a local Anthem/Paradigm dealer who may have a 1M kit I can pick up today (waiting until they open to call) which would be easiest and allow a quick return if it doesn't work.

Thanks!


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## Apgood

BigCoolJesus said:


> I found another one with a '3' serial # that's cheaper, also new in box.
> 
> Before I pull the trigger...an ARC 1M kit will work just fine too, right? If I go to the support section of Anthem, a microphone serial # works for both ARC-1 and ARC-1M downloads and the mic calibration file for both downloads is identical. As far as I can tell, if I get an ARC-1M kit and use the mic cal file from it with the ARC-1 software there shouldn't be any issues.
> 
> I ask because I have a local Anthem/Paradigm dealer who may have a 1M kit I can pick up today (waiting until they open to call) which would be easiest and allow a quick return if it doesn't work.
> 
> Thanks!


Don't know I would call Anthem to check before buying an ARC 1M kit.

Sent from my LG-D802T using Tapatalk


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## Bob Pariseau

BigCoolJesus said:


> It has to be the mic itself. Wouldn't work at all on the Windows 8 laptop. So I even pulled out an old old old Windows Vista desktop tower PC and no go on that either.
> 
> Going to email Anthem and see how much a replacement will cost. And check eBay.


Could be the USB cable has gotten damaged. Try another USB cable.
--Bob


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## BuckeyeAmps

Bob Pariseau said:


> Could be the USB cable has gotten damaged. Try another USB cable.
> --Bob


I did 

I have a small collection of USB cables and none made a difference but they all worked fine with the Keyspan adapter/MRX 700 interface. 

I got a good enough deal on this MRX700 so I don't mind spending a little more on a new ARC kit. Will give it a try.


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## BuckeyeAmps

Just got a response from Anthem while at the same time trying an ARC-1M kit my local dealer lent me: any microphone with Serial # 312000 or higher "should do the trick" for Windows 10/USB 3.0 support. I also confirmed that getting an ARC-1M kit and using the calibration file with the ARC-1 software also works just fine. A replacement mic can be ordered from Anthem for $69 plus shipping. 

Looks like I am set to go.


Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## Apgood

That's great news!

Sent from my LG-D802T using Tapatalk


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## Bob Pariseau

*From Our Learn Something New Every Day department:*

If you leave Zone 3 powered up on the D2v / 3D, the Main path will power up much faster.

I find this surprising, because I wouldn't think all the parts of Main path (digital audio and video) would be booted just because Zone 3 was live.
--Bob


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## gerard1meehan

I was hoping that you folks could help me out again. I’ve adjusted some speaker positions and reran ARC. I had some very” boomy” bass and I adjusted my room gain. I found reducing it did the trick, but that honestly was through trial and error. Now I understand what room gain is, but what I do not understand is how it is addressed in the target window of ARC.

For instance the target window showed Room gain (db) 3.945749. So is ARC seeing that the room adds that gain and Arc reduces it, or does it say the room needs that gain and adds it? As of now I reduced it to 3 db and the boominess, seems to have been reduced. But I am very curious as to what ARC is doing, then my trial and error could be a bit more focused.

Next would be the Max EQ frequency, Arc offers 200-20,000 and defaults to 5,000. Why would one not use the max?

I am certain that these items have been addressed multiple times here but having a tough time tracking it down


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## Bob Pariseau

gerard1meehan said:


> I was hoping that you folks could help me out again. I’ve adjusted some speaker positions and reran ARC. I had some very” boomy” bass and I adjusted my room gain. I found reducing it did the trick, but that honestly was through trial and error. Now I understand what room gain is, but what I do not understand is how it is addressed in the target window of ARC.
> 
> For instance the target window showed Room gain (db) 3.945749. So is ARC seeing that the room adds that gain and Arc reduces it, or does it say the room needs that gain and adds it? As of now I reduced it to 3 db and the boominess, seems to have been reduced. But I am very curious as to what ARC is doing, then my trial and error could be a bit more focused.
> 
> Next would be the Max EQ frequency, Arc offers 200-20,000 and defaults to 5,000. Why would one not use the max?
> 
> I am certain that these items have been addressed multiple times here but having a tough time tracking it down


Let's start with the 2nd question. ARC has a finite set of hardware resources to draw upon to do correction. There are more of those in the D2v than in the AVM 50 for example. The wider the frequency range you tell ARC to correct, the more spread out those resources get. Since the most important job for ARC to do is dealing with bass response for the room, and blending the bass output of the main speakers with the subwoofer, the default setting is to correct bass and only up through the mid-range -- 5 kHz.

The other problem is that getting accurate Measurements in treble is tough. Treble is a lot more directional, and so issues in Treble Measurement may be due to speaker pointing. Details of how the speakers are mounted can also be important, as well as odd things like room humidity.

And then each ARC mic has a calibration file which corrects its individual response. The ARC mic hears the entire hemisphere above the tip of the mic. So as you go up in frequency it also becomes important to correct for the polar response of the mic -- think of it as the mic's version of directionality -- its deviation from hearing that entire hemisphere equally. Depending on the geometry of mic vs. speaker placement in 3 dimensions, that correction may work more or less well.

Now, with some experience, you can learn to judge from the ARC Measurement curves how far up into the treble appears to be "good" data from the mic. For example, by comparing the different speakers, you can sometimes see uniform drop-off which means the mic isn't getting good data up there. So, of course, you don't want to try to "correct" that bad data.

Then, if you DO raise the Max EQ Frequency, you also need to be alert for problems appearing elsewhere in the ARC solution -- due to the reallocation of ARC's correction resources away from the bass region.

ARC for the D2v let's you experiment with higher values of Max EQ Frequency so you can learn for yourself how far you can extend the correction.

ARC for the new MRX AVRs does not. It has a set upper limit of 5 kHz, under the theory that MRX owners won't be doing that kind of experimentation. (If you need more correction resources in bass, you can still lower the Max EQ value.)

In my own D2v / 3D setup, I use a Max EQ Frequency of 12 kHz.

--------------------------------------------

Room Gain is a "desirable" characteristic of good listening rooms. It manifests as a small boost in the bass frequencies, and you perceive it as the difference between a good listening room and a dead or anechoic room. Very large rooms, or rooms with extensive "bass treatment" have low Room Gain.

People who mix audio for movies assume the Room Gain of the listening room will be in the range 2-4dB. There's not really much consensus on this from people who mix audio for music, but the general result is that music mixes assume somewhat less Room Gain -- perhaps 1dB less.

The simple way to do an ARC-like solution would be to produce "flat" response down through the bass, but that would eliminate the Room Gain inherent in the listening room, and leave things sounding less natural.

*Instead, ARC attempts to measure the inherent Room Gain of the listening room and preserve that as part of the ARC solution.*

On the ARC charts, Room Gain manifests as the shallow hump in the Target curves down below, say 120Hz. If there were no Crossover processing, that hump's peak level would be flat all the way to the lowest frequencies. But instead the Crossover rolls that off.

If you look at the flat part of the ARC Target curves to the right of that -- in the mid-range frequencies -- what you've got is the Basic Volume Level of the Target ARC solution. The numeric value for Room Gain is simply the height of the peak of that Room Gain hump over the Basic Volume Level, in dB.

Now, Measuring the inherent Room Gain in the room is not easy. The inherent bass output of the speakers, and how they couple with the room, can produce dips or peaks in bass output not really related to Room Gain.

So ARC has some built in limits to the Room Gain it will select automatically for the ARC solution. It won't apply a negative Room Gain, as that has no useful physical meaning. And it won't apply a Room Gain above +4dB, as higher values are more likely to be the result of Measurement problems such as just mentioned.

For technical reasons of how the ARC math works, that 3.9...dB Room Gain value you quoted is how the +4dB limit shows up.

If you look at the Measured curves for your speakers, you will likely find they are hot in bass. This may be due either to the design of the speakers themselves, or due to how you have them physically positioned in the room -- bass resonances due to the way the speaker is coupling with the room's geometry. You can use the ARC Quick Measure Tool to see if modest repositioning of the speakers with respect to the walls reduces that unnaturally hot bass. Then redo your ARC setup.

In the ARC Targets window, you can adjust the Room Gain built into the solution -- including putting in a value MORE than +4dB if you want.

Lowering Room Gain because you think bass is overemphasized is a perfectly reasonable thing to do. But don't eliminate it entirely. Try +2dB or +3dB for example.
--Bob


----------



## gerard1meehan

Bob Pariseau said:


> Let's start with the 2nd question. ARC has a finite set of hardware resources to draw upon to do correction. There are more of those in the D2v than in the AVM 50 for example. The wider the frequency range you tell ARC to correct, the more spread out those resources get. Since the most important job for ARC to do is dealing with bass response for the room, and blending the bass output of the main speakers with the subwoofer, the default setting is to correct bass and only up through the mid-range -- 5 kHz.
> 
> The other problem is that getting accurate Measurements in treble is tough. Treble is a lot more directional, and so issues in Treble Measurement may be due to speaker pointing. Details of how the speakers are mounted can also be important, as well as odd things like room humidity.
> 
> And then each ARC mic has a calibration file which corrects its individual response. The ARC mic hears the entire hemisphere above the tip of the mic. So as you go up in frequency it also becomes important to correct for the polar response of the mic -- think of it as the mic's version of directionality -- its deviation from hearing that entire hemisphere equally. Depending on the geometry of mic vs. speaker placement in 3 dimensions, that correction may work more or less well.
> 
> Now, with some experience, you can learn to judge from the ARC Measurement curves how far up into the treble appears to be "good" data from the mic. For example, by comparing the different speakers, you can sometimes see uniform drop-off which means the mic isn't getting good data up there. So, of course, you don't want to try to "correct" that bad data.
> 
> Then, if you DO raise the Max EQ Frequency, you also need to be alert for problems appearing elsewhere in the ARC solution -- due to the reallocation of ARC's correction resources away from the bass region.
> 
> ARC for the D2v let's you experiment with higher values of Max EQ Frequency so you can learn for yourself how far you can extend the correction.
> 
> ARC for the new MRX AVRs does not. It has a set upper limit of 5 kHz, under the theory that MRX owners won't be doing that kind of experimentation. (If you need more correction resources in bass, you can still lower the Max EQ value.)
> 
> In my own D2v / 3D setup, I use a Max EQ Frequency of 12 kHz.
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> Room Gain is a "desirable" characteristic of good listening rooms. It manifests as a small boost in the bass frequencies, and you perceive it as the difference between a good listening room and a dead or anechoic room. Very large rooms, or rooms with extensive "bass treatment" have low Room Gain.
> 
> People who mix audio for movies assume the Room Gain of the listening room will be in the range 2-4dB. There's not really much consensus on this from people who mix audio for music, but the general result is that music mixes assume somewhat less Room Gain -- perhaps 1dB less.
> 
> The simple way to do an ARC-like solution would be to produce "flat" response down through the bass, but that would eliminate the Room Gain inherent in the listening room, and leave things sounding less natural.
> 
> *Instead, ARC attempts to measure the inherent Room Gain of the listening room and preserve that as part of the ARC solution.*
> 
> On the ARC charts, Room Gain manifests as the shallow hump in the Target curves down below, say 120Hz. If there were no Crossover processing, that hump's peak level would be flat all the way to the lowest frequencies. But instead the Crossover rolls that off.
> 
> If you look at the flat part of the ARC Target curves to the right of that -- in the mid-range frequencies -- what you've got is the Basic Volume Level of the Target ARC solution. The numeric value for Room Gain is simply the height of the peak of that Room Gain hump over the Basic Volume Level, in dB.
> 
> Now, Measuring the inherent Room Gain in the room is not easy. The inherent bass output of the speakers, and how they couple with the room, can produce dips or peaks in bass output not really related to Room Gain.
> 
> So ARC has some built in limits to the Room Gain it will select automatically for the ARC solution. It won't apply a negative Room Gain, as that has no useful physical meaning. And it won't apply a Room Gain above +4dB, as higher values are more likely to be the result of Measurement problems such as just mentioned.
> 
> For technical reasons of how the ARC math works, that 3.9...dB Room Gain value you quoted is how the +4dB limit shows up.
> 
> If you look at the Measured curves for your speakers, you will likely find they are hot in bass. This may be due either to the design of the speakers themselves, or due to how you have them physically positioned in the room -- bass resonances due to the way the speaker is coupling with the room's geometry. You can use the ARC Quick Measure Tool to see if modest repositioning of the speakers with respect to the walls reduces that unnaturally hot bass. Then redo your ARC setup.
> 
> In the ARC Targets window, you can adjust the Room Gain built into the solution -- including putting in a value MORE than +4dB if you want.
> 
> Lowering Room Gain because you think bass is overemphasized is a perfectly reasonable thing to do. But don't eliminate it entirely. Try +2dB or +3dB for example.
> --Bob


Bob,

I really appreciate you putting the time in to address my questions so throughly. It is extremely helpful, and cleared up so many issues for me. I look forward to applying what I've learned.

G


----------



## gerard1meehan

*Darbee and the D2v*

Are any folks using a Darbee with their AVM/D2's??

if so does it produce a picture you could not produce with the D2v alone? 

very curious

thx


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes -- OPPO 105D Blu-ray player with built-in Darbee.

And, Yes. Set Darbee processing to a low value -- the effect should be subtle. In the OPPO, Darbee Hi-def 35% works well with most HD content. Some few films do NOT work well with Darbee -- it looks "over processed". The last Hobbit film is a good example. So be alert for that and turn Darbee OFF if you spot that.
--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Anyone use an Nvidia Shield with a D2V? Work OK with no issues?? Am thinking about getting on to use in our theater and run through the D2V. 

Thanks.


----------



## EricE

barhoram said:


> Anyone use an Nvidia Shield with a D2V? Work OK with no issues?? Am thinking about getting on to use in our theater and run through the D2V.
> 
> Thanks.


I tried the Shield with my D2V for a while using KODI and SPMC from my server shares.

Bitstreaming TrueHD and DTS-HD worked perfectly but on my system I could not get perfect 24hz playback from ripped Blu-ray files. Every once and a while there would be a frame skip or jump noticeable on slow panning scenes. It could be that my projector is long in the tooth or something else in the settings but it was enough for me to return the Shield.

I tried it Shield>D2V>JVC RS-1 Projector using short runs of HDMI.
I set video 1 to 1080P 24 and it showed 24hz through the D2V and at the projector end.


----------



## gerard1meehan

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Yes -- OPPO 105D Blu-ray player with built-in Darbee.
> 
> And, Yes. Set Darbee processing to a low value -- the effect should be subtle. In the OPPO, Darbee Hi-def 35% works well with most HD content. Some few films do NOT work well with Darbee -- it looks "over processed". The last Hobbit film is a good example. So be alert for that and turn Darbee OFF if you spot that.
> --Bob


Ok,

Just ordered the stand alone unit. I'll give it a shot, I'm using a Panasonic ZT60 Plasma so should be interesting to see what it can do


----------



## cvinfig

I have a Samsung plasma hooked up to my AVM50v-3D via HDMI OUT 1 and a BenQ projector hooked to HDMI OUT 2. I can run the Samsung by itself with no problem. I can run both the Samsung and BenQ together with no problem. However, if I just try to run the BenQ I get video drop-outs unless I unplug the HDMI cable from the Samsung. Any suggestions on how to get this working? I can't change the HDMI cable going to the projector...

Thanks!
--Chuck


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Try switching the Samsung to a different HDMI Input (e.g., one that isn't connected) before turning the Samsung OFF. That should be equivalent to disconnecting the cable to the Samsung.

However, there are various reasons why the Samsung may be keeping that HDMI Input "live" even when the Samsung is OFF. The two most common are HDMI CEC (remote control over the HDMI cable) and HDMI ARC (audio return channel from the TV back to the Anthem). HDMI CEC may be called just about anything. Look for words related to turning on another device or changing its input selections, or for the other device to turn on the Samsung.

Now, HDMI CEC can usually be disabled by settings, if you can find the words above. HDMI ARC and HDMI CEC may also only be available on one of the TV's HDMI Inputs. In which case, the easiest way to get rid of them is to cable to a different HDMI Input on the Samsung. The Anthem doesn't support either HDMI CEC or HDMI ARC so there's no value in keeping those enabled in the Samsung, as it will only complicate HDMI handshakes.
--Bob


----------



## cvinfig

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Try switching the Samsung to a different HDMI Input (e.g., one that isn't connected) before turning the Samsung OFF. That should be equivalent to disconnecting the cable to the Samsung.
> 
> However, there are various reasons why the Samsung may be keeping that HDMI Input "live" even when the Samsung is OFF. The two most common are HDMI CEC (remote control over the HDMI cable) and HDMI ARC (audio return channel from the TV back to the Anthem). HDMI CEC may be called just about anything. Look for words related to turning on another device or changing its input selections, or for the other device to turn on the Samsung.
> 
> Now, HDMI CEC can usually be disabled by settings, if you can find the words above. HDMI ARC and HDMI CEC may also only be available on one of the TV's HDMI Inputs. In which case, the easiest way to get rid of them is to cable to a different HDMI Input on the Samsung. The Anthem doesn't support either HDMI CEC or HDMI ARC so there's no value in keeping those enabled in the Samsung, as it will only complicate HDMI handshakes.
> --Bob


Thanks for the advice, unfortunately it didn't help. HDMI CEC was off on the Samsung but I was using the HDMI input that supported ARC so I changed that. No difference. I then changed to an unused input before turning it off and that was actually worse - once the video dropped to the projector it never came back on until I turned the television back on. Oh well, not that big of a deal, just a minor inconvenience.


----------



## mlbrand

*D2 freezing during power on*

My D2 started freezing in the power on stage. After a few on/off cycles it will get past it and recognize the proper input and display video, but I'm starting to worry. Any thoughts? Hardware or software problem?


----------



## cvinfig

cvinfig said:


> Thanks for the advice, unfortunately it didn't help. HDMI CEC was off on the Samsung but I was using the HDMI input that supported ARC so I changed that. No difference. I then changed to an unused input before turning it off and that was actually worse - once the video dropped to the projector it never came back on until I turned the television back on. Oh well, not that big of a deal, just a minor inconvenience.


Quick update - I originally had the projector, which is used less often, connected to HDMI-OUT 2 and the Samsung connected to HDMI-OUT 1. Yesterday I switched those so the projector is connected to HDMI-OUT 1 and everything is working now. I can watch either display independently or both together, and no video dropouts.


----------



## doubleroll

Wow this thread is way too long to read all of it. So I will ask for some tips to get my D2V3D running quickly when it gets here in a day or two. It is a used unit upgraded to 3D by anthem with the latest software 3.10 I believe. My system consists of Linn Unidisk for Analog CD, SACD, DVDA, Etc. Sony BluRay and FiOS quantum box. All Linn Amps and 5.1 speaker system, Espek, Sizmik, Katan and Ekwal. 
I would like to get it up and tested quickly and will tweak as time permits. Any suggestions and anything I Should look for or listen for as this is a second unit? Thanks!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## doubleroll

doubleroll said:


> Wow this thread is way too long to read all of it. So I will ask for some tips to get my D2V3D running quickly when it gets here in a day or two. It is a used unit upgraded to 3D by anthem with the latest software 3.10 I believe. My system consists of Linn Unidisk for Analog CD, SACD, DVDA, Etc. Sony BluRay and FiOS quantum box. All Linn Amps and 5.1 speaker system, Espek, Sizmik, Katan and Ekwal.
> I would like to get it up and tested quickly and will tweak as time permits. Any suggestions and anything I Should look for or listen for as this is a second unit? Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Almost forgot the panel, Fujitsu 55" Plasma which unfortunately only has DVI and analog inputs. No HDMI. Tia!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Typically a DVI TV is going to require RGB video data format instead of the YCbCr format more commonly used for HDMI TVs. So in the Video Output Configuration menu, set your output to Studio RGB (not Extended), with the Output Data as 8-bit and the Color Space as HD. Given the age of your Fujitsu, it may be a 768P panel instead of 1080p -- i.e., its native pixel matrix as opposed to the max video resolution you can send it. If so, also consider setting the D2v to output the highest resolution that matches but does not exceed the panel's native resolution. E.g., 1360x768p.

You should plan to spend some quality time with a video calibration disc (e.g., Spears & Munsil, Blu-ray) to get the video settings properly adjusted in the TV. Leave the video level settings in the D2v at factory defaults unless you find you can't get satisfactory results with just the TV's own adjustments.

The D2v has some test patterns in the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" button until this comes up). They are generated in the D2v and are thus independent of whatever your source devices might be sending to the D2v. Start by getting video output working properly from the D2v using those test patterns. Only after you feel the D2v is sending proper video to your TV should you start setting up your Sources.

NOTE: If you don't have video to begin with, you can go through the Setup menu of the D2v using just the Front Panel display. The pictures of the menus in the D2v Manual will be helpful to keep from getting lost. When you make adjustments in the Video Output Configuration menu, those changes will not take effect until you exit that menu AND confirm that you really want the change to be made. I.e., change the No to a Yes and select that.

Since you are getting a used D2v/3D, you should probably start by doing a Reset Factory Defaults (in the Setup menu -- again you can use the Front Panel Display for this) to make sure there aren't any oddball settings left behind by the previous owner.
--Bob


----------



## doubleroll

Bob, thank you very much for the excellent advice! Yes my Fujitsu is 1366x768 for sure. Also, it is 10 bit I believe. Great point!

Wonder if I would be better off using the component output to the Fujitsu instead of DVI?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## audiovideoholic

What type of cord do I need to buy to run ARC1M? The cord that comes with the AVM 60 kit is really really short and won't even reach a couple of feet into my room more less to all the seats? 

Do I just need a USB extension cord or is there a specific type of cord I need to buy?

Thanks all
Alex


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^ Doubleroll,

Fujitsu would recommend you use 1360x768p even though that means losing a 3 pixel wide strip on each side. Why?

16:9 content has an aspect ratio of 16/9 = 1.77777... But if you do the math, 1366/768 = 1.77864, which is slightly wider.

To get a 16:9 shape that's 1366 pixels wide you'd need 1366*9/16 = 768.375 rows. Which means the 16:9 content you are displaying is going to be squished vertically by a tiny amount during scaling since there are only 768 rows available. Small scaling changes like this are how you get scaling artifacts.

Meanwhile 1360/768 = 1.7708, which is slightly narrower.

To get a 16:9 shape that's 1360 pixels wide you'd need 1360*9/16 = exactly 765 rows. Displayed on a 1366x768 panel, that's exactly 16:9 so long as you don't use 3 pixels on either side and also don't use 3 rows vertically -- for example 2 on the top and 1 on the bottom.

When you send 1360x768 to the Fujitsu it will automatically center it horizontally in its 1366x768 pixel matrix -- which gets you those narrow strips unused left and right.

But what about the difference between 765 rows (your desired result) and 768 rows (the output going to the Fujitsu)?

For THAT what you do is set Scale Out = Pillar Box in the D2v's Video Source Adjust menu! The scaling in the D2v will then turn 1920x1080 content into 1360x765 (i.e., preserving the 16:9 aspect ratio) but padded with 2 additional black lines on top and 1 on the bottom to make 1360x768 output. The D2v provides the black lines top and bottom, and the Fujitsu provides the black strips left and right and you are left with perfect, 16:9 content on the display.

You set the output resolution just once (in the Video Output Configuration menu). But the Scaling has to be selected separately for each of your Source definitions in the D2v. I.e., there's a separate Video Source Adjust menu for each Source and you'll want to specify Scale Out = Pillar Box in each of them by selecting that Source for viewing and then doing Press and Hold on the "7" button to bring up its Video Source Adjust Menu.

Adjusting the Scale Out like this for each Source is tweaking for improving your image -- you don't need to do it up front. But what you should probably do up front is selecting 1360x768p output from the D2v to begin with, instead of 1366x768p.

--------------------------------------------

You should use DVI (i.e., an HDMI to DVI cable) from the D2v to the Fujitsu. Not Component.

The D2v will not convert HDMI input to Component output.
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

audiovideoholic said:


> What type of cord do I need to buy to run ARC1M? The cord that comes with the AVM 60 kit is really really short and won't even reach a couple of feet into my room more less to all the seats?
> 
> Do I just need a USB extension cord or is there a specific type of cord I need to buy?
> 
> Thanks all
> Alex


There are two cables used to run ARC for the D2v. First is the mic cable which is a long USB cable with a regular USB jack for the computer end and a mini USB jack for the mic end. That should have come with your kit. It is about 20 feet long as I recall.

The other is an RS232 serial cable that runs between the computer and the RS232 port on the back of the D2v. Since most computers these days do not have RS232 ports anymore Anthem has been including a USB to serial adapter which may be the short cable you are talking about. Plug the USB end of that into your computer and run a serial cable from the other end of the adapter to the RS232 port on the back of the D2v. The serial cable Anthem provides is about 6 feet long, so perhaps that's the cable you are referring to.

If you need to buy the serial cable, be sure you get one that is a "straight through" cable -- i.e., pins 1-9 at one end connected to pins 1-9 at the other end. Do not confuse it with the identical looking cable -- sometimes identified as a "null modem" cable -- which swaps one pair of those pins.

If you need to buy the USB mic cable, get a good quality USB cable with the correct plugs on each end.
--Bob


----------



## audiovideoholic

Bob Pariseau said:


> There are two cables used to run ARC for the D2v. First is the mic cable which is a long USB cable with a regular USB jack for the computer end and a mini USB jack for the mic end. That should have come with your kit. It is about 20 feet long as I recall.
> 
> The other is an RS232 serial cable that runs between the computer and the RS232 port on the back of the D2v. Since most computers these days do not have RS232 ports anymore Anthem has been including a USB to serial adapter which may be the short cable you are talking about. Plug the USB end of that into your computer and run a serial cable from the other end of the adapter to the RS232 port on the back of the D2v. The serial cable Anthem provides is about 6 feet long, so perhaps that's the cable you are referring to.
> 
> If you need to buy the serial cable, be sure you get one that is a "straight through" cable -- i.e., pins 1-9 at one end connected to pins 1-9 at the other end. Do not confuse it with the identical looking cable -- sometimes identified as a "null modem" cable -- which swaps one pair of those pins.
> 
> If you need to buy the USB mic cable, get a good quality USB cable with the correct plugs on each end.
> --Bob


Oh. I see now. No I was talking about the mic usb cable but I thought it plugged into the PrePro which made its length of 12' nowhere near long enough to reach from my exterior rack room to the theater. Need about 25-30' to reach all seats from rack. But if I just hook the mic up to a computer that changes everything. I didn't bother reading instructions since didn't have time to calibrate and test it out. Was either listen to it or calibrate and listening sounded much better. 

Is it Mac compatible? That's all we have is MacBook. So just need to calibrate mic through Mac and then hook up Mac to AVM 60.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

audiovideoholic said:


> Oh. I see now. No I was talking about the mic usb cable but I thought it plugged into the PrePro which made its length of 12' nowhere near long enough to reach from my exterior rack room to the theater. Need about 25-30' to reach all seats from rack. But if I just hook the mic up to a computer that changes everything. I didn't bother reading instructions since didn't have time to calibrate and test it out. Was either listen to it or calibrate and listening sounded much better.
> 
> Is it Mac compatible? That's all we have is MacBook. So just need to calibrate mic through Mac and then hook up Mac to AVM 60.


The ARC setup software is a Windows program. So it won't run directly on the Mac.

If you don't want to buy or borrow a Windows computer, you can get Parallels Desktop 12 for the Mac, and then use a Windows 10 install disc to create a Windows 10 environment in Parallels. I.e., you'll have Windows running in a window on the Mac. You'll have to buy Parallels, and a full (not upgrade) Windows 10 install disc.

Are you talking about an AVM 60 or a D2v? (This being the D2v thread.) The newer ARC software for the AVM 60 connects to it over the network rather than via serial cable. Once you've got Ethernet or Wifi networking running on the AVM 60 (and on Windows), the ARC software for the AVM 60 (running on Windows) will be able to find it on the network and communicate with it that way during ARC Measurement and Upload. So that means you'll only need the USB cable between the computer and the mic. No serial cable.
--Bob


----------



## audiovideoholic

Bob Pariseau said:


> The ARC setup software is a Windows program. So it won't run directly on the Mac.
> 
> If you don't want to buy or borrow a Windows computer, you can get Parallels Desktop 12 for the Mac, and then use a Windows 10 install disc to create a Windows 10 environment in Parallels. I.e., you'll have Windows running in a window on the Mac. You'll have to buy Parallels, and a full (not upgrade) Windows 10 install disc.
> 
> Are you talking about an AVM 60 or a D2v? (This being the D2v thread.) The newer ARC software for the AVM 60 connects to it over the network rather than via serial cable. Once you've got Ethernet or Wifi networking running on the AVM 60 (and on Windows), the ARC software for the AVM 60 (running on Windows) will be able to find it on the network and communicate with it that way during ARC Measurement and Upload. So that means you'll only need the USB cable between the computer and the mic. No serial cable.
> --Bob


AVM 60. That's why I cross posted. I saw this with ARC so posted here too as well as the 60 thread.

Oh well I won't ever have a Windows network per se but can buy a tablet if that will work. I have all Apple networking airports and extenders etc... That might explain why it couldn't connect to my network manually or automatically even though it saw the network.

This Mac change over has been great except with audio modeling programs and equipment but yet most professionals say Mac is the best for most studio stuff. And now even schools are teaching with Mac instead of Windows but yet many many basic programs aren't compatible. Ughh. I like the change but don't now after a few months. A cheap tablet will be very helpful I guess.


----------



## audiovideoholic

What about android tablets? Any way to do anything with say the Sony tablet that came with my VW1100es?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The AVM 60 works just fine with Apple Airport Wifi hardware (or Ethernet from an Apple AirPort Extreme acting as your router). I have one set up that way. 

Wifi for the AVM 60 gets set up using the DTS Play-Fi app (e.g., their iOS app). For Ethernet you just plug in the cable. You need to unplug the Ethernet cable if you want to switch later to Wifi. 
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

audiovideoholic said:


> What about android tablets? Any way to do anything with say the Sony tablet that came with my VW1100es?


ARC for the AVM 60 runs on Windows. Only. 

I believe DTS also has an Android version of their Play-Fi app. 
--Bob


----------



## doubleroll

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^^ Doubleroll,
> 
> 
> 
> Fujitsu would recommend you use 1360x768p even though that means losing a 3 pixel wide strip on each side. Why?
> 
> 
> 
> 16:9 content has an aspect ratio of 16/9 = 1.77777... But if you do the math, 1366/768 = 1.77864, which is slightly wider.
> 
> 
> 
> To get a 16:9 shape that's 1366 pixels wide you'd need 1366*9/16 = 768.375 rows. Which means the 16:9 content you are displaying is going to be squished vertically by a tiny amount during scaling since there are only 768 rows available. Small scaling changes like this are how you get scaling artifacts.
> 
> 
> 
> Meanwhile 1360/768 = 1.7708, which is slightly narrower.
> 
> 
> 
> To get a 16:9 shape that's 1360 pixels wide you'd need 1360*9/16 = exactly 765 rows. Displayed on a 1366x768 panel, that's exactly 16:9 so long as you don't use 3 pixels on either side and also don't use 3 rows vertically -- for example 2 on the top and 1 on the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> When you send 1360x768 to the Fujitsu it will automatically center it horizontally in its 1366x768 pixel matrix -- which gets you those narrow strips unused left and right.
> 
> 
> 
> But what about the difference between 765 rows (your desired result) and 768 rows (the output going to the Fujitsu)?
> 
> 
> 
> For THAT what you do is set Scale Out = Pillar Box in the D2v's Video Source Adjust menu! The scaling in the D2v will then turn 1920x1080 content into 1360x765 (i.e., preserving the 16:9 aspect ratio) but padded with 2 additional black lines on top and 1 on the bottom to make 1360x768 output. The D2v provides the black lines top and bottom, and the Fujitsu provides the black strips left and right and you are left with perfect, 16:9 content on the display.
> 
> 
> 
> You set the output resolution just once (in the Video Output Configuration menu). But the Scaling has to be selected separately for each of your Source definitions in the D2v. I.e., there's a separate Video Source Adjust menu for each Source and you'll want to specify Scale Out = Pillar Box in each of them by selecting that Source for viewing and then doing Press and Hold on the "7" button to bring up its Video Source Adjust Menu.
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusting the Scale Out like this for each Source is tweaking for improving your image -- you don't need to do it up front. But what you should probably do up front is selecting 1360x768p output from the D2v to begin with, instead of 1366x768p.
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
> You should use DVI (i.e., an HDMI to DVI cable) from the D2v to the Fujitsu. Not Component.
> 
> 
> 
> The D2v will not convert HDMI input to Component output.
> 
> --Bob




Bob you are truly a wealth of knowledge! Thank you for the excellent tips!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## chileboy

I apologize if this has been asked before, but a search didn't turn anything up.

Is it possible to convert the Anthem .cal file into a text file that Room EQ Wizard can understand? I'd like to try using the ARC microphone that came with my unit to calibrate a different setup (my 2-channel in another room).

Thanks,

- Mark


----------



## r0n1n

audiovideoholic said:


> Is it Mac compatible? That's all we have is MacBook. So just need to calibrate mic through Mac and then hook up Mac to AVM 60.


As stated before, ARC runs on windows only. I also have a mac, but I run parallel desktop to emulate windows. Works fine for me.


----------



## merida

My Anthem AVM50V2 need a new firmware. There is a low volume problem with it. 
Where can I find the latest V3.09J firmware to download?


----------



## thestewman

merida said:


> My Anthem AVM50V2 need a new firmware. There is a low volume problem with it.
> Where can I find the latest V3.09J firmware to download?


Here http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software.php

Are you sure the firmware is your problem ?


----------



## merida

thestewman said:


> Are you sure the firmware is your problem ?


Thanks, but I can download the 3.09 software from here.
I need the 3.09j beta.

I am not sure, but I don't have any idea what to do.
I tried factory reset and installed the 3.09 firmware.

The volume was 35-38db and it was OK.
Now I increase it to 20db and it is softer.
The sound is very stange and there is no dynamics at all.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ merida,

That doesn't sound like a firmware problem, or rather, a problem that 3.09j might address where a reinstall of 3.09 did not do the trick.

A few things to check:

1) Clear all the "temporary" speaker volume trim adjustments -- the ones changed using the buttons on the remote. To clear all of those in one go do this:
-- Save User Settings
-- Reload Factory Defaults. (If you lose video at this point, continue via the Front Panel display.)
-- Reload Saved User Settings. Since the "temporary" settings are not saved, this resets all of them for all audio formats.

2) Go into each Setup > Source Setup and make sure you have Dolby Volume set to OFF for every Source line.

3) Press the Dynamics button twice and make sure you don't have dynamic range limiting turned on. See Section 4.8.10 of the Manual. (This is not likely the cause as this setting gets reset to Normal on each power cycle, but check it anyway.)

4) Re-Upload your existing ARC solution. No need to re-Measure; just double click on the file where you've saved the solution and do an Upload.

5) After that, go into Setup > Level Calibration, set the Test Mode to Manual, and scroll down through the lines to make sure audio is coming from the correct speakers for each line. Better yet, play an audio calibration test track, such as the LPCM Channel ID 5.1 or 7.1 track from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray. The difference in playing the test track is that it gets processed through ARC. If you hear a substantial level difference for any of the speakers, you need to check your amp next. (Do that by swapping outputs on the back of the D2v to see if the problem stays in the same speaker (problem in amp or speaker) or moves to the other speaker (problem not yet figured out in the D2v).

If this doesn't fix it, and you can't demonstrate the problem as being in the amp or speaker, then your D2v likely needs service.

--Bob


----------



## merida

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ merida,
> 
> 
> If this doesn't fix it, and you can't demonstrate the problem as being in the amp or speaker, then your D2v likely needs service.
> 
> --Bob


Thank you for your help!

There are several posts on this forum about low volume issue and low volume bug.
Post#38418, 38426, 38427...

This is in the 3.09 firmware. 

I will try what you wrote, but can you tell me where can I find newer firmwares to download?
Can anybody send me the 3.09J firmware? 

What is that low volume thing?


----------



## merida

thestewman said:


> Here is a temp link to 3.09j in my Dropbox
> Let me know when you have copied it


Thanks!
I have downloaded it!

:grin:


----------



## Bob Pariseau

merida said:


> Thank you for your help!
> 
> There are several posts on this forum about low volume issue and low volume bug.
> Post#38418, 38426, 38427...
> 
> This is in the 3.09 firmware.
> 
> I will try what you wrote, but can you tell me where can I find newer firmwares to download?
> Can anybody send me the 3.09J firmware?
> 
> What is that low volume thing?


Here's the change list for the test versions between v3.09 (official firmware for the non 3D hardware) and V3.10 (official firmware for the 3D hardware):



> CHANGE LIST
> 
> v3.10 release candidate
> 
> 1. Rotating knob very quickly caused front panel display to freeze - fixed.
> 
> 
> v3.09l beta
> 
> 1. Fixed issue where Dolby Pro Logic IIx Music was not available for 2-channel 24/192 input.
> 
> 
> v3.09j beta
> 
> 1. Fixed serial control issue where Zone 2 had no audio if powering on to tuner.
> 
> 2. Fixed AVM 50v issue where noise was present when playing 176.4 kHz source.
> 
> 
> v3.09h release candidate:
> 
> 1. When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source was playing, a surround upmix mode couldn't be selected - fixed.
> 
> 2. False "No Input Signal" status info when receiving 2-channel input - fixed.
> 
> 3. "Last Used" mode preset reverted to "None" under certain conditions - fixed.
> 
> 4. Previous DTS changes now certified.
> 
> 
> v3.09f beta:
> 
> 1. Output channel count was displayed incorrectly when 6-ch analog input was selected - fixed.
> 
> 2. Further DTS-required changes.
> 
> Known issue: When Dolby TrueHD 2-channel source is selected, a surround upmix mode can't be selected.
> 
> 
> v3.09c beta:
> 
> 1. Fixed bug where AVM 50v sometimes powered on with low volume.
> 
> 2. DTS-required changes for pending certification. Previous release where surround remapping was disabled for all speaker configurations did not meet all requirements.



See item (1) in the v3.09c beta. The Low Volume issue was something that could happen with the AVM 50v hardware only. This was something that only happened SOME OF THE TIME when powering on an AVM 50v. If what you've got is something that happens ALL the time when you power up, then it is not likely to be this issue.
--Bob


----------



## merida

Bob Pariseau said:


> Here's the change list for the test versions between v3.09 (official firmware for the non 3D hardware) and V3.10 (official firmware for the 3D hardware):
> 
> See item (1) in the v3.09c beta. The Low Volume issue was something that could happen with the AVM 50v hardware only. This was something that only happened SOME OF THE TIME when powering on an AVM 50v. If what you've got is something that happens ALL the time when you power up, then it is not likely to be this issue.
> --Bob


I see.
You were right. 
I have installed the firmware and nothing has changed. I will run ARC again. I hope it will help.

The low volume was a problem in my system occasionally, but now it is constant.


----------



## chileboy

chileboy said:


> I apologize if this has been asked before, but a search didn't turn anything up.
> 
> Is it possible to convert the Anthem .cal file into a text file that Room EQ Wizard can understand? I'd like to try using the ARC microphone that came with my unit to calibrate a different setup (my 2-channel in another room).
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> - Mark



I guess that's a "no"!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I don't believe there have been any reports here of folks successfully using Anthem's calibrated mic with other tools, or, _vice versa_, using the calibrated mics from other tools with ARC.
--Bob


----------



## chileboy

^ Thank you, Bob.

-Mark


----------



## AVfile

merida said:


> I have installed the firmware and nothing has changed. I will run ARC again. I hope it will help.
> 
> 
> 
> The low volume was a problem in my system occasionally, but now it is constant.



Darn. Well 3.09j is good to have for other reasons. 

Tip: instead of re-running ARC you could just disable it to see what happens.


----------



## slots1

cargen said:


> I read in a review that the only physical way to tell the difference between a D2v and a D2v 3D is to check the front display during power-up or by pressing the status button. A D2v2 3D displays "STATEMENT D2v 3D A/V PROCESSOR".
> 
> So my question is: is that true only for New-from-the-factory D2v 3D's or is the same true for a D2v that has been later upgraded with a 3D upgrade board kit?
> 
> Stated differently, does a D2v that has been later upgraded to 3D display "STATEMENT D2v 3D A/V PROCESSOR" when the Status button is pressed?


My board was replaced with 3D one and yes it shows up on display
You probably already got this answer


----------



## slots1

*Is the D2v 3D. Now a dead product.*



cargen said:


> I read in a review that the only physical way to tell the difference between a D2v and a D2v 3D is to check the front display during power-up or by pressing the status button. A D2v2 3D displays "STATEMENT D2v 3D A/V PROCESSOR".
> 
> So my question is: is that true only for New-from-the-factory D2v 3D's or is the same true for a D2v that has been later upgraded with a 3D upgrade board kit?
> 
> Stated differently, does a D2v that has been later upgraded to 3D display "STATEMENT D2v 3D A/V PROCESSOR" when the Status button is pressed?


My board was replaced with 3D one and yes it shows up on display
You probably already got this answer


----------



## slots1

*D2v 3D dead product*

Bob and whoever else wants to chime in
I bought my D2 about ten years ago, upgraded to the D2v when it seemed the D3 was a while in coming, and about two plus years ago I added the 3D board. So retail it is 9500 unit.
But, you can buy a used version for about 2k
Yes, I like new bells and whistles , but I think Anthem is going in a new direction with their am60.
Any comments.
I also assume all new products are not built in Canada.
Gerry
Thanks in advance Bob for all your current and past help


----------



## doubleroll

I just picked up a Sony BDP-S6700. Any suggestions on audio setup going to my D2v? In particular BD audio mix setting? Thx!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## slots1

*Any upgrade coming for the D2v 3D*

Tech support from Anthem answered, there will be no D3 or any further upgrades.
I am still very happy with my Anthem D2v and do not need 11.2.
Would have been nice to have a USB port , but oh well.
Hopefully any updates to ARC, will be available for the D.


----------



## madhuski

slots1 said:


> Tech support from Anthem answered, there will be no D3 or any further upgrades.
> I am still very happy with my Anthem D2v and do not need 11.2.
> Would have been nice to have a USB port , but oh well.
> Hopefully any updates to ARC, will be available for the D.




Not even a HDMI board upgrade to support HDMI 2.0?


----------



## gerard1meehan

*Possible future Statement direction?*

Anthem just introduced a new integrated amp for Stereo called the STR. Go online and read the specs, as I hope this is the direction they take when they decide to tackle a new Statement Processor. Just by pure model numbers ( and their web page)I believe it is safe to say the AVM 60 is the direction they are going with their Performance line.

Those of us who got the D2v for its Audio chops lets hop that line takes its cues from the STR.

My humble 2 cents


----------



## gerard1meehan

gerard1meehan said:


> Anthem just introduced a new integrated amp for Stereo called the STR. Go online and read the specs, as I hope this is the direction they take when they decide to tackle a new Statement Processor. Just by pure model numbers ( and their web page)I believe it is safe to say the AVM 60 is the direction they are going with their Performance line.
> 
> Those of us who got the D2v for its Audio chops lets hop that line takes its cues from the STR.
> 
> My humble 2 cents


or hope. Hop or hope whatever is best for you!


----------



## dweltman

slots1 said:


> Tech support from Anthem answered, there will be no D3 or any further upgrades.



Unlike other comments, this does not say "there is no D3 or upgrade currently in the works" or similar things we've heard before. This says it's never going to happen, and essentially makes the Anthem Statement Pre/Pro is a dead platform. 


Can anyone else verify this? Bob?


----------



## doubleroll

Can somebody me explain what the input and format mean when using select on screen? Manual is not very detailed, e.g., RS, LS, etc?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## TJG55

*Anthem Atmos units*

Just a note to all users of Anthem Atmos. If you were using Dolby Volume (on and leveler to zero), a most effective variable loudness circuit, it will DISABLE the heights speakers! This info is in the owners manual but not obvious. As a dealer, it was driving us crazy trying to determine why ceiling speakers were not playing. A quick call to Brandon at Anthem support solved this for us. All is now great with Atmos!
TJG55

For sale: Anthem D-2 $1999
423 483 1364


----------



## Bob Pariseau

doubleroll said:


> Can somebody me explain what the input and format mean when using select on screen? Manual is not very detailed, e.g., RS, LS, etc?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


They are abbreviations for the audio channels present in the audio input format, and for the speakers active in the audio output:

Left Front, Center, Right Front, Right Surround, Right Rear, Left Rear (or Center Rear if only one), Left Surround, LFE (for input format) or Subwoofer (for speaker output).

So for example, with stereo audio input and PLIIx surround mode engaged for a 5.1 speaker system, you would see the expansion of two-channel input to 5.1 speaker output as

Input: LF RF
Output: LF C RF SUB / LS RS

With 7.1 channel audio input in the same 5.1 speaker system, you would see the down-mix of 7.1 input to 5.1 speaker output as

Input: LF C RF LFE / LS LR RR RS
Output: LF C RF SUB / LS RS

--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

TJG55 said:


> Just a note to all users of Anthem Atmos. If you were using Dolby Volume (on and leveler to zero), a most effective variable loudness circuit, it will DISABLE the heights speakers! This info is in the owners manual but not obvious. As a dealer, it was driving us crazy trying to determine why ceiling speakers were not playing. A quick call to Brandon at Anthem support solved this for us. All is now great with Atmos!
> TJG55
> 
> For sale: Anthem D-2 $1999
> 423 483 1364


But no Atmos support anyway in the AVM-50v or Statement D2v pre-pros. So turning off Dolby Volume still won't get you height speakers.
--Bob


----------



## TJG55

Bob,
Knew the difference, but posted it here just in case others with MRX Atmos receivers might miss it elsewhere or have one of the above.
thanks
Tom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Fair enough. Just didn't want to get people's hopes up.
--Bob


----------



## doubleroll

Bob Pariseau said:


> They are abbreviations for the audio channels present in the audio input format, and for the speakers active in the audio output:
> 
> 
> 
> Left Front, Center, Right Front, Right Surround, Right Rear, Left Rear (or Center Rear if only one), Left Surround, LFE (for input format) or Subwoofer (for speaker output).
> 
> 
> 
> So for example, with stereo audio input and PLIIx surround mode engaged for a 5.1 speaker system, you would see the expansion of two-channel input to 5.1 speaker output as
> 
> 
> 
> Input: LF RF
> 
> Output: LF C RF SUB / LS RS
> 
> 
> 
> With 7.1 channel audio input in the same 5.1 speaker system, you would see the down-mix of 7.1 input to 5.1 speaker output as
> 
> 
> 
> Input: LF C RF LFE / LS LR RR RS
> 
> Output: LF C RF SUB / LS RS
> 
> 
> 
> --Bob




Seems that my output format always is listed as LS RS. But my 5.1 channels are active. Strange...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## AVfile

doubleroll said:


> Seems that my output format always is listed as LS RS. But my 5.1 channels are active. Strange...



Not LF RS?

What model and what version of firmware?


----------



## doubleroll

AVfile said:


> Not LF RS?
> 
> What model and what version of firmware?




Version 3.10 and LS RS is what it displays...see pic attached. Thank you!










Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## cvinfig

doubleroll said:


> Version 3.10 and LS RS is what it displays...see pic attached. Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


That shows Left, Center, Right, LFE, Left Surround, and Right Surround.


----------



## doubleroll

cvinfig said:


> That shows Left, Center, Right, LFE, Left Surround, and Right Surround.




Ok thanks I think I got it now. I see input matches the out correctly. Thanks!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes, BOTH of those lines together show your "Input Format".
--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Had an odd D2V issue last night.....haven't played a regular dvd in a long time...but my wife wanted to watch something old. 

Source is an Oppo 103D via HDMI to the D2V. On certain scenes with the DVD the video would become slow and choppy and almost out of sync. I checked and the output was set to 1080p24 out of the D2V to the projector. I switched to 1080p60...which i thought would solve, but it did not. Checked the Oppo and 24p for DVD was turned off. I remember having this issues years ago when we watched a lot more DVDs...and can't remember how we solved it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ This is almost certainly a player issue and not a D2v issue.

Odds are the player is having trouble reading the disc and is doing read error recovery.

Clean the playing surface of the disc and try again.
--Bob


----------



## doubleroll

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Yes, BOTH of those lines together show your "Input Format".
> --Bob




Thanks Bob that was my mistake, not realizing that both lines make up the total. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Archie007

*Anthem D2v Volume control issue (not working)*

I have a D2v, a used one but new to me. The volume controller on the unit doesn't seem to work. The volume is adjustable on the remote control. My dealer will fix it I'm sure but I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and how it was fixed.

Many thanks

Archie


----------



## barhoram

Anthem used to have software to backup and/or upload your D2V configuration to a PC. Is that still supported? Is there a way to backup the configuration onto a PC??


----------



## doubleroll

barhoram said:


> Anthem used to have software to backup and/or upload your D2V configuration to a PC. Is that still supported? Is there a way to backup the configuration onto a PC??




Great question, I do see you can save the config but not sure how to export to a PC. 

Another question, any way to set a default source to be loaded at startup of the unit. For example, I would like my FiOS box connected to HDMI 1 to be active no matter what source was in use last time it was turned off. Thanks!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## TheDudeAbides

*A couple of problems...*

I have poked through the posts in here already and found a couple of things related to my inquiries, but nothing that has 'fixed' the issues I am seeing.

I am attempting to connect the D2 to a JVC projector through HDMI out. Sources are an Oppo 103 (input 1) and Comcast cable box (input 2) - both connected by HDMI. At present, I get no video through the D2 via the HDMI connections (audio does pass); connecting either source directly to the projector produces video, so I am left thinking it may be my beloved D2. It's running on version 1.33. I reset the settings and the video appears for about 5 seconds after start-up. If I hurry I can access the setup screen momentarily or video plays from the BluRay player, but then the screen blanks again. Thereafter, if I restart the D2 without first resetting to factory spec, it will only display a blank screen.


Thoughts?


----------



## Ellebob

How long is the cable to your projector? Bypassing the receiver and connecting directly to the receiver does not mean it is not a cable or other HDMI problem. Try setting your devices to 480 and see if you get a picture then through the receiver. In diagnosing HDMI problems without test equipment the first thing to do is to determine if it Is a cable or equipment issue. Again, because it works bypassed does not mean it is not a cable problem. The BEST way to do this is to get all the equipment near each other and test the chain of components with short cables 2m (6ft) or less. Usually it is easier to move the projector but sometimes it is easier to move the equipment closer to the projector. Either way it can be a pain but other than trying some settings in equipment it is the best place to start.

If your system works with short cables and not the longer one, you have a cabling problem. Don't go any further and find a solution for your cabling problem.


----------



## barhoram

Is below (taken from first page) still the recommended ARC procedure and does the "bug" still exist? The original post is quite a few years old...



Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB. Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up). Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.

[ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]

Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position. There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.

ARC will use the Noise Level setting you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones, and the adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, can be level adjusted properly to match. If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.


----------



## jpoet

*Audio Return Channel*

I searched but did not find "Audio Return Channel" discussed. Does the D2v 3D support it? I am considering upgrading to a 'smart' 4k TV and that seems like the best way to get multi-channel DD+ audio into the D2v 3D. I would prefer if it worked via HDMI, but if it supported >48kHz via S/PDIF, that would be acceptable.

I would love to see Anthem added to the list here http://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-ne...olby-digital-plus-dd-atmos-over-hdmi-arc.html

Thanks,

John


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It does not. No Audio Return Channel support in the D2, D2v, or D2v / 3D.

Use Optical or Coax digital audio input instead.
--Bob


----------



## AVfile

barhoram said:


> Is below (taken from first page) still the recommended ARC procedure and does the "bug" still exist? The original post is quite a few years old...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB. Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up). Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.
> 
> 
> 
> [ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]
> 
> 
> 
> Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position. There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.
> 
> 
> 
> ARC will use the Noise Level setting you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones, and the adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, can be level adjusted properly to match. If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.



Looks correct. There have been other more recent posts about how to choose your first five mic positions from [email protected] and Bob Pariseau. You might find them in the more recent AVM-60 or MRX threads.


----------



## AVfile

barhoram said:


> Anthem used to have software to backup and/or upload your D2V configuration to a PC. Is that still supported? Is there a way to backup the configuration onto a PC??



Yes there is a utility, check the Anthem software downloads page for the D2 and D2V. If not contact Tech Support. If they don't reply send me a PM.


----------



## AVfile

TheDudeAbides said:


> I get no video through the D2 via the HDMI connections (audio does pass); connecting either source directly to the projector produces video, so I am left thinking it may be my beloved D2. It's running on version 1.33. I reset the settings and the video appears for about 5 seconds after start-up. If I hurry I can access the setup screen momentarily or video plays from the BluRay player, but then the screen blanks again.



What is your video output Config for those sources?


----------



## jpoet

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ It does not. No Audio Return Channel support in the D2, D2v, or D2v / 3D.
> 
> Use Optical or Coax digital audio input instead.
> --Bob


Thanks, Bob.

I am hoping it is something they will do in the future. Even if it required a hardware upgrade, it would be worth it to solve some limitations. Implementing this should be easier/cheaper than adding 4k, for example.

John


----------



## Stevetd

jpoet said:


> Thanks, Bob.
> 
> I am hoping it is something they will do in the future. Even if it required a hardware upgrade, it would be worth it to solve some limitations. Implementing this should be easier/cheaper than adding 4k, for example.
> 
> John




Be careful for what you wish for. Upgrading to 3D hardware on my D2v was a horrible decision. Worked better all the way around before I did that. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TheDudeAbides

AVfile said:


> What is your video output Config for those sources?


The Bluray player output was HDMI from output 1, resolution on auto. Cable output was just HDMI 1080p.

Thanks!


----------



## AVfile

TheDudeAbides said:


> The Bluray player output was HDMI from output 1, resolution on auto. Cable output was just HDMI 1080p.
> 
> Thanks!


Video Output Config in the Anthem Source Setup?

Sent from my Lenovo YT3-850F using Tapatalk


----------



## barhoram

For a 5.1 Blu-Ray audio (understand D2 can't do 7.1) would there be any sonic difference between a D2 (via PCM) and D2V (via bistream)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

barhoram said:


> For a 5.1 Blu-Ray audio (understand D2 can't do 7.1) would there be any sonic difference between a D2 (via PCM) and D2V (via bistream)?


It's been quite some time since I had a D2, but when I made the transition from the D2 to the D2v, I was startled to discover the D2v sounded much better. I was not expecting that. In the tests that I did, I found no important difference between the quality of Bitstream and LPCM played through the D2v for the same audio track (i.e., if the player was decoding the Bitstream and thus sending LPCM, or not).
--Bob


----------



## ragdog

Have not been here for some time. Is there a 4k update to the d2v?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Nope. The AVM 60 can do "pass through" of 4K.
--Bob


----------



## thestewman

ragdog said:


> Have not been here for some time. Is there a 4k update to the d2v?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Not from Anthem. Or anyone else.
You would think a 4k bypass would be easily developed and added


----------



## RobDec

*4K pass thru*

Hi
I too am wondering if there will be an 4K pass thru upgrade on the D2v 3D. I heard no more upgrades, but am wondering if that is official. Can anyone confirm this?
Im not really interested in Atmos or DTS X, but 4K is appealing to me.

Rob


----------



## AVfile

Well the almost identical AVM-50v 3D is discontinued so I would say it's official that there would be no upgrades for either model.


----------



## RobDec

I was hoping that because Anthem didn't discontinue the D2v 3D that they might have plans for it in the future. I don't think its to much to ask for considering its a 9.5K processor.

Rob


----------



## dmusoke

Bob Pariseau said:


> *From Our Learn Something New Every Day department:*
> 
> If you leave Zone 3 powered up on the D2v / 3D, the Main path will power up much faster.
> 
> I find this surprising, because I wouldn't think all the parts of Main path (digital audio and video) would be booted just because Zone 3 was live.
> --Bob


Bob:

I know this post from July is way back but, how do you accomplish what you discovered for zone 3. I have output triggers from my D2v that turn on all other components in my system(when it's powered up) and the turn on time is rather long.

Also, is the latest D2v software on their site beta 3.09j or the final 3.09h with supposedly all the fixes?

Thanks,
David


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The Zone 3 trick is not complicated. Of course it assumes you are not really USING Zone 3 audio. Power up Zone 3 using either the remote or the Front Panel button, and leave it powered up.

Turn Main or Zone 2 on/off as needed, leaving Zone 3 powered.

If you are using triggers, go into the Triggers table for each Trigger in Setup and confirm that the line for Power does not have the column for Zone 3 enabled, so the fact that Zone 3 is left powered on won't keep your Triggers live.

------------------------------

Last I heard, Anthem was still saying that the Official firmware for the D2v is v3.09 and for the D2v/3D is 3.10, and they are not recommending anyone use any of the development releases between 3.09 and 3.10.

Some of the fixes in those intermediate releases probably apply to the D2v, but since they were developed and tested for the D2v/3D apparently they can also cause problems in the original D2v. Since I've been using a D2v/3D for some time now, I've lost track of what those problems might be.
--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Thank you Bob... Happy Thanksgiving to all!


----------



## RobDec

*Problems with setup OSD*

Hi
I have a D2v 3D and noticed my left rear needed to be adjusted. I went in to setup and changed it. A few minutes afterwards I wanted to adjust again. I went into setup and got just a black screen, the front panel went into setup, but not the tv display. I turned the D2v 3D off and on again and the setup screen DID appear on the display. Does anyone have any input as to why I had to turn the Anthem off and on to get it to show on the display? Should it be serviced?
Also my level setting for the left rear seems to have drifted. I had the unit serviced a few months ago with Anthem and I didn't check every setting in setup, so maybe it reverted back to original ARC setting (I had tweeked after ARC installation). Any input would be appreciated.

Rob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Sometimes when you exit Setup the Anthem does not completely exit. Meaning you get a black screen when you try to bring it up again.

To prevent that, after pressing Back to exit Setup, wait a moment and press it a 2nd time.

--Bob


----------



## RobDec

Thanks Bob
I tries several times pressing "back" and it still remained black. However I waited more than a few seconds pressing "Back". Not to alarmed because when I turned it off and on I did get the set up menu.
What Im really concerned about is the calibration level had drifted for the rear left. 
Again any info what be very much appreciated on these issues.
Thanks again Bob your an ocean of knowledge. Merry Christmas to all!!!

Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Thanks Bob
> I tries several times pressing "back" and it still remained black. However I waited more than a few seconds pressing "Back". Not to alarmed because when I turned it off and on I did get the set up menu.
> What Im really concerned about is the calibration level had drifted for the rear left.
> Again any info what be very much appreciated on these issues.
> Thanks again Bob your an ocean of knowledge. Merry Christmas to all!!!
> 
> Rob


When making these individual channel volume level changes in Setup are you also running Save User Setttings ?


----------



## RobDec

thestewman said:


> When making these individual channel volume level changes in Setup are you also running Save User Setttings ?


 Hi thestewman,
I honestly don't remember. Its possible I didn't save my tweeks to "Save user settings" and accidently loaded the "Load user settings" which would then revert to the original ARC settings. Or accidently saved to "save installer settings" instead of "save user settings" then loaded "Load user settings" which would also revert to original ARC settings.
But I don't remember when I got my unit back from service I checked a several settings out and they were the same, but didn't check 100%.
I use the term accidently because I don't remember saving or loading as it was nine months from the time I got the unit home.
Thank you thestewman,

Rob


----------



## RobDec

Hi again
Now its not giving me a setup screen at all, its black, but it will "back"out to the viewing screen. This is the same problem I had when I had it serviced except it stayed black and wouldn't go back to the viewing screen at all. No matter if I turned it off and on or even power cycled it.
Looks like Ill have to call Anthem Monday unless you guys can figure it out.

Again any input...

Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Hi again
> Now its not giving me a setup screen at all, its black, but it will "back"out to the viewing screen. This is the same problem I had when I had it serviced except it stayed black and wouldn't go back to the viewing screen at all. No matter if I turned it off and on or even power cycled it.
> Looks like Ill have to call Anthem Monday unless you guys can figure it out.
> 
> Again any input...
> 
> Rob


Describe how the D2 is connected to your display. Connection type, Cable type and length. Display being used?
Test and confirm this happens on every input source ? 
Does it also occur if you use front panel buttons instead of the remote ?


----------



## RobDec

thestewman said:


> Describe how the D2 is connected to your display. Connection type, Cable type and length. Display being used?
> Test and confirm this happens on every input source ?
> Does it also occur if you use front panel buttons instead of the remote ?


 Hi again thestewman ,
I have a 1m HDMI cable going from the bluray player to "IN" on the D2v 3D, and a 1m HDMI cable from the Directv Sat box to "IN" on the D2v 3D. Then a 2m cable going "OUT" from the D2v 3D to the display. The HDMI cables "IN" and "OUT"are Audioquest Carbon.
My display is a 80' Sharp 844, which is 4 years old.
It occurs on CD and DVD. Sat seems to be ok, and the hard buttons on the face plate also seem to be ok (But that maybe just a sporatic outcome)

Thanks for your time. And I hope you have a solution,

Rob


----------



## AVfile

RobDec said:


> Hi again
> Now its not giving me a setup screen at all, its black, but it will "back"out to the viewing screen. This is the same problem I had when I had it serviced except it stayed black and wouldn't go back to the viewing screen at all. No matter if I turned it off and on or even power cycled it.
> Looks like Ill have to call Anthem Monday unless you guys can figure it out.
> 
> Again any input...
> 
> Rob


Since you have a 3D model, are you using the THROUGH video output mode? If so try selecting another source that is configured with an explicit video output config (like 1080p24 or 1080p60) before entering the Setup menu.

I have experienced various HDMI problems when powering up to the THROUGH output mode including nasty screens when going to Setup. The Setup menu normally adopts the last used output mode BUT in this case there isn't one and the video processor is not properly initialized.


----------



## RobDec

AVfile said:


> Since you have a 3D model, are you using the THROUGH video output mode? If so try selecting another source that is configured with an explicit video output config (like 1080p24 or 1080p60) before entering the Setup menu.
> 
> I have experienced various HDMI problems when powering up to the THROUGH output mode including nasty screens when going to Setup. The Setup menu normally adopts the last used output mode BUT in this case there isn't one and the video processor is not properly initialized.


 Hi AVfile,
Im not using the THROUGH. I have the video output set appropriately for Bluray, DVD and 3D (Which is when I use THROUGH). I have a separate setups for Bluray and DVD as well as 3D THROUGH. Bluray 1920X1080p24 and DVD 1920X1080p60.
It just did it again, as I was verifying my video outputs the black screen froze and I could not view Sat. I had to switch inputs to get the viewing screen back.
Thanks for your reply, I think it needs servicing. But Im open to suggestions,

Rob


----------



## thestewman

RobDec said:


> Hi AVfile,
> Im not using the THROUGH. I have the video output set appropriately for Bluray, DVD and 3D (Which is when I use THROUGH). I have a separate setups for Bluray and DVD as well as 3D THROUGH. Bluray 1920X1080p24 and DVD 1920X1080p60.
> It just did it again, as I was verifying my video outputs the black screen froze and I could not view Sat. I had to switch inputs to get the viewing screen back.
> Thanks for your reply, I think it needs servicing. But Im open to suggestions,
> 
> Rob


Try using only the bottom row of HDMI inputs as a test except of course for your 3D setup which needs Through.


----------



## AVfile

RobDec said:


> Hi AVfile,
> Im not using the THROUGH. I have the video output set appropriately for Bluray, DVD and 3D (Which is when I use THROUGH). I have a separate setups for Bluray and DVD as well as 3D THROUGH. Bluray 1920X1080p24 and DVD 1920X1080p60.
> It just did it again, as I was verifying my video outputs the black screen froze and I could not view Sat. I had to switch inputs to get the viewing screen back.
> Thanks for your reply, I think it needs servicing. But Im open to suggestions,
> 
> Rob


Hi Rob,
Sounds like you are doing the right things so I'm out of ideas (but do try stewman's suggestion).

I vaguely recall someone posting in this thread before about the setup menu failing. Bob has mentioned on more than one occasion that the setup menu is generated by an S-video circuit internal to the unit. I don't recall the fix but I think a trip to Anthem for repair of the unit was the outcome. You could try searching this thread.

Stefan


----------



## RobDec

thestewman said:


> Try using only the bottom row of HDMI inputs as a test except of course for your 3D setup which needs Through.





AVfile said:


> Hi Rob,
> Sounds like you are doing the right things so I'm out of ideas (but do try stewman's suggestion).
> 
> I vaguely recall someone posting in this thread before about the setup menu failing. Bob has mentioned on more than one occasion that the setup menu is generated by an S-video circuit internal to the unit. I don't recall the fix but I think a trip to Anthem for repair of the unit was the outcome. You could try searching this thread.
> 
> Stefan


 Thanks guys for your time.
I will try thestewman's suggestion, but it looks like it needs servicing. 
Rob


----------



## MitchPope

RobDec said:


> Thanks guys for your time.
> I will try thestewman's suggestion, but it looks like it needs servicing.
> Rob


I'm not sure if it is the same cause, but it might be worth a shot - I lost OSD on my D2 and reinstalling the firmware brought it back from just being on the front panel.


----------



## RobDec

MitchPope said:


> I'm not sure if it is the same cause, but it might be worth a shot - I lost OSD on my D2 and reinstalling the firmware brought it back from just being on the front panel.


 Thanks MitchPope
Ill give it a try.

Rob


----------



## tranle

*Frame lock ?*

"Frame Lock" there used to be an option to enable it at the bottom of the output section of 'video source adjustment' (manual chapter 4 page 71).
Did this got removed in the last firmware of the D2V ?

Thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yes.
--Bob


----------



## Christian Busch

*Anthem ARC Calculated vs target line btween 10 and 20 khz Question*

Hi,

today I dialed my Anthem d2v 3d in with the arc software. 
I used the auto with 5 measuring points.

What I was wondering is the following:
In the screenshot the calculated green line drops steeply from 10 khz onwards, where the blue target line stays horizontal.

Shouldnt my calculated green line stay flat from 10 to 20 khz as well ? 

Would that change if I run the manual calibration ? 

Im using Monitor Audio GS60 as froints with the gslcr, gsfx surround.

thanks in advance,
Christian
///


----------



## cvinfig

Christian Busch said:


> Hi,
> 
> today I dialed my Anthem d2v 3d in with the arc software.
> I used the auto with 5 measuring points.
> 
> What I was wondering is the following:
> In the screenshot the calculated green line drops steeply from 10 khz onwards, where the blue target line stays horizontal.
> 
> Shouldnt my calculated green line stay flat from 10 to 20 khz as well ?
> 
> Would that change if I run the manual calibration ?
> 
> Im using Monitor Audio GS60 as froints with the gslcr, gsfx surround.
> 
> thanks in advance,
> Christian
> ///



The default max EQ frequency is 5k Hz so above that the calculated line is the same as the measured. Also, the mic isn't accurate above 10k so your frequency response isn't really taking a nose-dive at that point (all my graphs show the same thing as well).


----------



## thestewman

Christian Busch said:


> Hi,
> 
> today I dialed my Anthem d2v 3d in with the arc software.
> I used the auto with 5 measuring points.
> 
> What I was wondering is the following:
> In the screenshot the calculated green line drops steeply from 10 khz onwards, where the blue target line stays horizontal.
> 
> Shouldnt my calculated green line stay flat from 10 to 20 khz as well ?
> 
> Would that change if I run the manual calibration ?
> 
> Im using Monitor Audio GS60 as froints with the gslcr, gsfx surround.
> 
> thanks in advance,
> Christian
> ///


Anthem does not recommend or support anything over 5khz.
Check page 46 of the manual
Your Green calculated curve looks excellent


----------



## RIppolito

*How do I play a cd without the TV on?*

Everybody,

I have an AVM 50. I'd like to play a cd via my blu ray player. When I try this with the TV off, I get no audio out. As soon as I turn on the TV, the audio begins.

The reason I want the TV off is to prevent any burn in, because except for the 'time elapsed' area, the rest of the screen is static.

Can someone please help me get this done?

Thank you in advance...be well 
Ron


----------



## AVfile

RIppolito said:


> I have an AVM 50. I'd like to play a cd via my blu ray player. When I try this with the TV off, I get no audio out. As soon as I turn on the TV, the audio begins.



This happens to me as well but I have the 50v 3D and it is a quirk related to the 3D mode. Is yours a 3D model?


----------



## RIppolito

AVfile said:


> This happens to me as well but I have the 50v 3D and it is a quirk related to the 3D mode. Is yours a 3D model?


I do not have the 3D model. I suspect that the problem is my using the HDMI connection from the blu ray player. 

Is there a way to specify 'none' for a video output when programming an input?
Ron


----------



## AVfile

RIppolito said:


> Is there a way to specify 'none' for a video output when programming an input?
> 
> Ron



No, only in the 3D models, but that causes even more problems in my experience.


----------



## thestewman

RIppolito said:


> I do not have the 3D model. I suspect that the problem is my using the HDMI connection from the blu ray player.
> 
> Is there a way to specify 'none' for a video output when programming an input?
> Ron


 How about using 

your Blu Ray player HDMI for the video portion and set up its Screen Saver


----------



## fmzip

Bob Pariseau said:


> ARC v3.0.2 as found in Anthem's downloads for the D2v is also what's used for the D2. Do not install ARC from the original D2 ARC install disc. Instead install the v3.0.2 version.
> 
> To do that, download and unzip that version. Dive into the resulting folder to find the Setup.Exe program -- the installer itself. Load your original ARC install CD. If that automatically launches its installer simply Quit out of that. Dive into the loaded CD to find the Setup.Exe program in it. In that same location you will find two files with names made up of numbers. The numbers are the serial number of your D2 and the serial number of your ARC mic. Check that these numbers match the actual serial numbers. If not, call Anthem tech support and they can email you the correct two files. These files are your ARC license and the mic calibration data for your specific ARC mic.
> 
> Copy the correct two files, both of them, from the ARC CD into the folder where you found Setup.Exe in the downloaded version.
> 
> Now eject the ARC CD. Save it in case you ever need to copy those two files in the future.
> 
> Run Setup.exe from the v3.0.2 downloaded version. It will install ARC and copy those two files where they need to go as part of that.
> --Bob


This post above was from 2014.....

My laptop just died and I need to redo my setup on a windows 10 machine. Do the same steps apply?


----------



## jitenn

I realize this is likely the wrong forum for my post, so please do point me to an appropriate thread. 

Am looking to trade in my avm50v for the avm60. Any advice on retailers is much appreciated!


----------



## Tank_PD

jitenn said:


> I realize this is likely the wrong forum for my post, so please do point me to an appropriate thread.
> 
> Am looking to trade in my avm50v for the avm60. Any advice on retailers is much appreciated!


Anthem is primary sold through a network of dealers. You need to visit your local dealer(s). Direct online (with warranty) your options are Anthem and Crutchfield. They will not take a trade in though. You may be able to list on audiogon directly if you wish to try to sell yourself. Expect a dealer to take at least 20% cut to sell your stuff.


----------



## dschamis

jitenn said:


> I realize this is likely the wrong forum for my post, so please do point me to an appropriate thread.
> 
> Am looking to trade in my avm50v for the avm60. Any advice on retailers is much appreciated!


I sold a D2 on eBay years ago and got a great price - I suggest that you try the same - it was a very easy transaction.


----------



## arftech

My goodness this is a big thread! How would you rate the AVM50V with 2 channel audio and would a used 50V be considered a good buy today?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

fmzip said:


> This post above was from 2014.....
> 
> My laptop just died and I need to redo my setup on a windows 10 machine. Do the same steps apply?


That procedure will work. Last time I looked I think Anthem now has a process for getting the ARC v3.0.2 installer downloaded which asks for the hardware numbers and automatically includes the necessary individual files. So it may be even simpler now.
--Bob


----------



## AVfile

arftech said:


> My goodness this is a big thread! How would you rate the AVM50V with 2 channel audio and would a used 50V be considered a good buy today?



It should be good. It has a pure analog path (if selected) with balanced XLRs and very low jitter on the digital inputs. Search this thread for "comparison chart" and you will see it is very similar in spec to the Statement D2v. 

Remember that Anthem was born out of Sonic Frontiers which had very high-end 2ch gear in decades past.


----------



## arftech

AVfile said:


> It should be good. It has a pure analog path (if selected) with balanced XLRs and very low jitter on the digital inputs. Search this thread for "comparison chart" and you will see it is very similar in spec to the Statement D2v.
> 
> Remember that Anthem was born out of Sonic Frontiers which had very high-end 2ch gear in decades past.


Thanks! I have another question I would like to ask...If I were to buy a used D2 can I simply use it's HDMI 1.1 port to play audio from an Oppo 203? Will this allow me to hear the latest codecs from Hi-Res Blu-Ray discs? What would I have to do on the Oppo to allow that? The Classe in my sig file is no more which makes me 

I'm looking at a used AVM50V 3D, D2 or another Classe SSP600 but I would like to get away from running analog cables from my player to another SSP 600.

Thanks!


----------



## AVfile

arftech said:


> Thanks! I have another question I would like to ask...If I were to buy a used D2 can I simply use it's HDMI 1.1 port to play audio from an Oppo 203? Will this allow me to hear the latest codecs from Hi-Res Blu-Ray discs? What would I have to do on the Oppo to allow that? The Classe in my sig file is no more which makes me
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking at a used AVM50V 3D, D2 or another Classe SSP600 but I would like to get away from running analog cables from my player to another SSP 600.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Did you find the comparison chart? Google also finds it on the Anthem site. 

If you're going to use HDMI input then you are better off with a "v" model. They have what Anthem calls "HDMI differential signaling and clock data recovery" and some of us here think it makes a nice difference on sound quality. 

The non-v models won't bitstream but will play everything if you set the player to output LPCM. 

At this point I would only recommend the D2 to someone that was more interested in getting the best out of analog sources. 

Have you considered a Classe CP-800 or do you need surround sound?


----------



## arftech

AVfile said:


> Did you find the comparison chart? Google also finds it on the Anthem site.
> 
> If you're going to use HDMI input then you are better off with a "v" model. They have what Anthem calls "HDMI differential signaling and clock data recovery" and some of us here think it makes a nice difference on sound quality.
> 
> The non-v models won't bitstream but will play everything if you set the player to output LPCM.
> 
> At this point I would only recommend the D2 to someone that was more interested in getting the best out of analog sources.
> 
> Have you considered a Classe CP-800 or do you need surround sound?


I want both but in one box if possible...good surround sound and robust analog audio. Going to the chart now....Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I wouldn't recommend a D2 over a D2v at this point even just for audio, if your plan is to play movies in your OPPO 203. In addition to the D2 being limited to HDMI LPCM input, it is limited to only LPCM 5.1 input (although it can raise that, by math, to 7.1 speaker output), and 96kHz audio. More and more movies these days are being delivered with 7.1 tracks. In addition ARC in the D2v has more hardware resources to work with than ARC in the D2.
--Bob


----------



## arftech

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ I wouldn't recommend a D2 over a D2v at this point even just for audio, if your plan is to play movies in your OPPO 203. In addition to the D2 being limited to HDMI LPCM input, it is limited to only LPCM 5.1 input (although it can raise that, by math, to 7.1 speaker output), and 96kHz audio. More and more movies these days are being delivered with 7.1 tracks. In addition ARC in the D2v has more hardware resources to work with than ARC in the D2.
> --Bob


Sadly, the D2V is out of my reach even used. I have settled on a pre-owned 50V 3D for both music/movies. It's not a D2V but hopefully it will be close.


----------



## fmzip

Bob Pariseau said:


> That procedure will work. Last time I looked I think Anthem now has a process for getting the ARC v3.0.2 installer downloaded which asks for the hardware numbers and automatically includes the necessary individual files. So it may be even simpler now.
> --Bob


Thanks Bob.

I took a look on the Anthem website and it show for ARC software nothing for the statement D1. Not sure what to do then??


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The Windows ARC app is the same for all these units. Just use v3.0.2
--Bob


----------



## arftech

Greetings all,

While I await the arrival of my "new to me" AVM50V 3D what should I do in the process to get ready for it's installation? One of the things I intend to do is pre-read the manual before the arrival to determine how it should be deployed in my current configuration. What I anticipate doing is utilizing a HDMI from the Oppo to my panel for video and linking the other HDMI connection from the Oppo 203 to the 50V for audio purposes. I want to keep this simple as I will not be taking advantage of the 50V's video processing. 

The FW version on the unit is v3.10 is it current?

Should I wait until everything settles in and then attempt to run ARC?

How should I connect everything in a sequential manner?

How would I get TIDAL streaming to the 50V from my MacBook Pro?

A standalone Cary 306/200 will be connected to the 50V for true analog sound.

I come from a Classe SSP-600 that recently died on me but it had no HDMI functionality and was relatively easy to configure. I hear the 50V is somewhat daunting to configure. Is that true?


Edit*****

Will this work to tie my Mac's USB port to one of the Anthem's digital in ports? I want to be able to stream Tidal HiFi from my Mac to the Anthem. Would this allow me to use the DAC in the Anthem for music playback?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XMOS-U8-CHI...421b227&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=6&sd=262292904412

Fun times ahead!


----------



## BrianJB7

Happy New Year!

It's been several years since I've enjoyed corresponding with AVS Forum group and it's really good to see some familiar folks. Can someone point me in the right direction? 

I've stopped using an Oppo 105 as a PrePro and I'm back using the D2 and have forgotten a few things since settling down:

1. How to verify the latest ARC software version in the D2?
2. How to post ARC measurements?

Again, wishing everyone a Happy, healthy & prosperous New Year! 

Thanks
-MIKEY


----------



## fmzip

Downloaded it.....

Ran the program, "measurement cannot be started, can't find valid anthem processor"

Have it set to COM1, 19200, 8 data bits, stop bits 2, NONE, NONE


----------



## AVfile

fmzip said:


> Downloaded it.....
> 
> 
> 
> Ran the program, "measurement cannot be started, can't find valid anthem processor"
> 
> 
> 
> Have it set to COM1, 19200, 8 data bits, stop bits 2, NONE, NONE



You can download the user manual and confirm serial port parameters. 

Are you sure your D1 has ARC?


----------



## fmzip

AVfile said:


> You can download the user manual and confirm serial port parameters.
> 
> Are you sure your D1 has ARC?



Yes it has ARC, I used it before....

The Anthem tech support rep gave me those parameters to check. They also said the only adapter they know that works for certain is this one so I ordered it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000VYJRY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## AVfile

arftech said:


> Greetings all,
> 
> 
> 
> While I await the arrival of my "new to me" AVM50V 3D what should I do in the process to get ready for it's installation? One of the things I intend to do is pre-read the manual before the arrival to determine how it should be deployed in my current configuration. What I anticipate doing is utilizing a HDMI from the Oppo to my panel for video and linking the other HDMI connection from the Oppo 203 to the 50V for audio purposes. I want to keep this simple as I will not be taking advantage of the 50V's video processing.
> 
> 
> 
> The FW version on the unit is v3.10 is it current?
> 
> 
> 
> Should I wait until everything settles in and then attempt to run ARC?
> 
> 
> 
> How should I connect everything in a sequential manner?
> 
> 
> 
> How would I get TIDAL streaming to the 50V from my MacBook Pro?
> 
> 
> 
> A standalone Cary 306/200 will be connected to the 50V for true analog sound.
> 
> 
> 
> I come from a Classe SSP-600 that recently died on me but it had no HDMI functionality and was relatively easy to configure. I hear the 50V is somewhat daunting to configure. Is that true?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit*****
> 
> 
> 
> Will this work to tie my Mac's USB port to one of the Anthem's digital in ports? I want to be able to stream Tidal HiFi from my Mac to the Anthem. Would this allow me to use the DAC in the Anthem for music playback?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/XMOS-U8-CHI...421b227&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=6&sd=262292904412
> 
> 
> 
> Fun times ahead!



Should be good. 

Assuming you have lined up all the cables you will need. 

About all you can do for now is get ARC installed and ready to run. You might want to find an old Windows laptop with a 9-pin serial port, or you will need a USB to RS-232 adapter and will need to get ARC running in Windows on your Mac. 

3.10 is correct and current firmware. 

I recommend you reset it to factory defaults, do basic setup and get an appreciation of the unit before running ARC. If you're not using the video processor, setup should be easy once you configure your sources. You will still need a video connection from the Anthem to a TV/monitor for the on-screen setup menus. Avoid advanced audio filters and EQ controls as you will be running ARC eventually which overrides all that. 

Good luck!


----------



## AVfile

BrianJB7 said:


> Happy New Year!
> 
> 
> 
> It's been several years since I've enjoyed corresponding with AVS Forum group and it's really good to see some familiar folks. Can someone point me in the right direction?
> 
> 
> 
> I've stopped using an Oppo 105 as a PrePro and I'm back using the D2 and have forgotten a few things since settling down:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. How to verify the latest ARC software version in the D2?
> 
> 2. How to post ARC measurements?
> 
> 
> 
> Again, wishing everyone a Happy, healthy & prosperous New Year!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> -MIKEY



1. Installed FIRMWARE version (not ARC) should be displayed on front panel during startup. Alternately with the unit ON press SELECT on the remote several times until you see version number. 

2. I use keyboard shortcut Alt-PrtScr to grab the ARC charts as displayed on your computer and then paste into Paint. Crop and save them in Paint as JPG files, then come back here attach the files to your post.


----------



## arftech

AVfile said:


> Should be good.
> 
> Assuming you have lined up all the cables you will need.
> 
> About all you can do for now is get ARC installed and ready to run. You might want to find an old Windows laptop with a 9-pin serial port, or you will need a USB to RS-232 adapter and will need to get ARC running in Windows on your Mac.
> 
> 3.10 is correct and current firmware.
> 
> I recommend you reset it to factory defaults, do basic setup and get an appreciation of the unit before running ARC. If you're not using the video processor, setup should be easy once you configure your sources. You will still need a video connection from the Anthem to a TV/monitor for the on-screen setup menus. Avoid advanced audio filters and EQ controls as you will be running ARC eventually which overrides all that.
> 
> Good luck!


Thanks and I appreciate your advice and input!


----------



## fmzip

BrianJB7 said:


> Happy New Year!
> 
> It's been several years since I've enjoyed corresponding with AVS Forum group and it's really good to see some familiar folks. Can someone point me in the right direction?
> 
> I've stopped using an Oppo 105 as a PrePro and I'm back using the D2 and have forgotten a few things since settling down:
> 
> 1. How to verify the latest ARC software version in the D2?
> 2. How to post ARC measurements?
> 
> Again, wishing everyone a Happy, healthy & prosperous New Year!
> 
> Thanks
> -MIKEY


The ARC software is not in the D2. You downlaod it onto a PC. The firmware is on the D2.

Click the print screen button when you have a result open, the open up paint and right click, "paste"


----------



## yacht422

*replacing D-2 and related equipmenb*

is the AVM 60 the logical successor to the D-2(D2V) 
Seems there will never be a D3.
Or, is the D2V still the superior processor?
I have the P5 Amp, plus back up amps available for future channel(s).

it is time to upgrade the system from the D-2 which has been bullet proof.
movies and classical blu-ray etc

What guidance can ya'll offer??

Or, perish the thought, is there better than Anthem?

many than ks

walt


----------



## Christian Busch

Hey Yacht422,

So late last year I was researching the same topic. I did audition the new mrx and the marantz, onkyo preamps, eventually went for a D2V 3D as I dont care about the Dolby Atmos and 4k yet. I hooked it up to a Pass Labs x250.5 and a parasound halo 51. I absolutely love it for music and movies.. I think its absolutely stunning. 

Cheers
Christian


----------



## yacht422

thx for the reply!
however, i am looking to upgrade to the new OPPO 4K player, new projector, etc and am looking for the "complete package" that will include the 4K, deep color and the latest audio codecs.
I only do this upgrade every few years, and 2017 looks like the year, given all the equipments improvements.
So-, again, many thanks, but I feel the "V" is outdated.
Still looking.

Walt


----------



## slots1

I now have a sony es 600 4k with the 4K sony server and just bought the new oppo 4k blu ray disc player
I have received an email from anthem basically saying the D2v is a dead end product. I love it but i want to use my 4 k products
There answer is buy their new processor with all the goodies for 3,000
Not sure this model does 3D that the my D2v does. Or is equal to it.
I would like to use my new products. 
My sony media server is where the projector is, and the anthem is about 25 feet away.
Is the anthem avm60 nearly equal the D2v
Any other suggestions????


----------



## drhankz

slots1 said:


> I now have a sony es 600 4k with the 4K sony server and just bought the new oppo 4k blu ray disc player
> I have received an email from anthem basically saying the D2v is a dead end product. I love it but i want to use my 4 k products
> There answer is buy their new processor with all the goodies for 3,000
> Not sure this model does 3D that the my D2v does. Or is equal to it.
> I would like to use my new products.
> My sony media server is where the projector is, and the anthem is about 25 feet away.
> Is the anthem avm60 nearly equal the D2v
> Any other suggestions????


Dual HDMI works perfectly. 

4K Video to Projector. 

Hi-Def Audio to D2v

I have been running that for years.


----------



## slots1

Ok that is how i have. Been running my sony media 4k server to es600
And the media server is at the projector
But how do i add on the new oppo 203 4k player 
Only answer. Avm60. Or is their another solution 
And how does it stack up to the D2v at 3 times the price?


----------



## arftech

AVfile said:


> Should be good.
> 
> Assuming you have lined up all the cables you will need.
> 
> About all you can do for now is get ARC installed and ready to run. You might want to find an old Windows laptop with a 9-pin serial port, or you will need a USB to RS-232 adapter and will need to get ARC running in Windows on your Mac.
> 
> 3.10 is correct and current firmware.
> 
> *I recommend you reset it to factory default*s, do basic setup and get an appreciation of the unit before running ARC. If you're not using the video processor, setup should be easy once you configure your sources. You will still need a video connection from the Anthem to a TV/monitor for the on-screen setup menus. Avoid advanced audio filters and EQ controls as you will be running ARC eventually which overrides all that.
> 
> Good luck!


How do you reset the 50V back to factory default as I do not see that in the manual? I could have overlooked it though.

Thanks again for helping me get started!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

arftech said:


> How do you reset the 50V back to factory default as I do not see that in the manual? I could have overlooked it though.
> 
> Thanks again for helping me get started!


It's in the Setup menu towards the bottom of the list. Scroll down to see it: Save / Load Settings > Load Factory Defaults

Note that you will have to Confirm your selection: Use the Arrow keys to change the No to a Yes and then press Select.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

slots1 said:


> Ok that is how i have. Been running my sony media 4k server to es600
> 
> And the media server is at the projector
> 
> But how do i add on the new oppo 203 4k player
> 
> Only answer. Avm60. Or is their another solution
> 
> And how does it stack up to the D2v at 3 times the price?



The Oppo has a 4K HDMI input for your media server. 

Look at the Anthem product page. Last time I looked the only preamps listed were D2v and AVM60. The 60 replaced the 50v. It is no match in terms of build quality but has eclipsed the functionality. If you don't use analog input or balanced output you could even get an MRX720. 

There is no new Statement pre to replace the D2v (yet). If there is going to be one I have a feeling a lot of people are going to be unhappy with the price. Might as well get that 60 now and if something better comes out (and positive reviews have been flowing for a while) then upgrade if you still have money.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ With any of these Anthem products you ought to consider using dual HDMI cabling from the OPPO 203: Main HDMI direct to your 4K Display, and Audio HDMI too the Anthem.

That's how I'm using the OPPO 203 with my D2v right now.
--Bob


----------



## arftech

Bob Pariseau said:


> It's in the Setup menu towards the bottom of the list. Scroll down to see it: Save / Load Settings > Load Factory Defaults
> 
> Note that you will have to Confirm your selection: Use the Arrow keys to change the No to a Yes and then press Select.
> 
> --Bob


Thanks Bob and AVfile. I'm in the process of reviewing the manual but something is not clear to me. How do you enable OSD if you're wanting to use a HDMI connection as I just want HDMI for setup purposes only? I'll be running a cable from the Oppo to my panel and will not use HDMI on the Anthem for video.


----------



## arftech

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ With any of these Anthem products you ought to consider using dual HDMI cabling from the OPPO 203: Main HDMI direct to your 4K Display, and Audio HDMI too the Anthem.
> 
> That's how I'm using the OPPO 203 with my D2v right now.
> --Bob


Yes, that is my plan as well.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

arftech said:


> Thanks Bob and AVfile. I'm in the process of reviewing the manual but something is not clear to me. How do you enable OSD if you're wanting to use a HDMI connection as I just want HDMI for setup purposes only? I'll be running a cable from the Oppo to my panel and will not use HDMI on the Anthem for video.


Run HDMI from the Anthem to a different input on your TV. Switch the TV to that input when you need to see video from the Anthem, including any other source devices you may be running through the Anthem. 

--Bob


----------



## arftech

Bob Pariseau said:


> Run HDMI from the Anthem to a different input on your TV. Switch the TV to that input when you need to see video from the Anthem, including any other source devices you may be running through the Anthem.
> 
> --Bob


Yeah, I did that. Is there something that needs toggling in setup to enable the OSD to fire up?


----------



## AVfile

arftech said:


> Yeah, I did that. Is there something that needs toggling in setup to enable the OSD to fire up?



You need to configure a video output mode. If the source you are using is set to THROUGH there will be no OSD. Make sure you are using HDMI OUT 1.


----------



## arftech

AVfile said:


> You need to configure a video output mode. If the source you are using is set to THROUGH there will be no OSD. Make sure you are using HDMI OUT 1.


Done and success! Thank you both AVfile and Bob! I'm going to bed and the fun stuff starts tomorrow! 

This is my first go around with HDMI from a processor perspective. My other processor was a legacy Classe SSP-600 that had no HDMI functionality.


----------



## slots1

Bob
Thanks
But i now have two 4k sources

Oppo 203
Sony 4k media server

How would they both connect to sony video, audio on both to D2v
Right now the sony media server video goes right to projector
And audio to D2v
Now what to do with video from oppo 4k
Also any future sources
Seems like my choice is the avm 60 to stay in anthem family

I am not sure the 60 does 3d pass through
Thanks
Gerry


----------



## AVfile

slots1 said:


> Bob
> 
> Thanks
> 
> But i now have two 4k sources
> 
> 
> 
> Oppo 203
> 
> Sony 4k media server
> 
> 
> 
> How would they both connect to sony video, audio on both to D2v
> 
> Right now the sony media server video goes right to projector
> 
> And audio to D2v
> 
> Now what to do with video from oppo 4k
> 
> Also any future sources
> 
> Seems like my choice is the avm 60 to stay in anthem family
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure the 60 does 3d pass through
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Gerry



I just answered this. Your Oppo has an HDMI input that will accept the 4K media player and act as the switcher (there is an INPUT button on the remote). Hookup Oppo with split A/V as previously stated by the other guys. 

That will keep you going for a good while. "Future sources" will likely replace your current media server. So You don't NEED the 60, but...

The 60 passes through everything by default, it does not process video. No "3D" upgrade required (that was a silly title for a pass-through mod on the OLD preamps that always processed video).


----------



## arftech

A couple of observations about my 50V 3D when trying to play a CD:

I can't understand when using analog balanced out connections from my Cary CD player to Anthem's balanced in an echo is produced. It work fine with the regular RCA connections. Also, the Anthem produces a static or popping sound when I select 2 channel on the front panel. Could these conditions be caused by something not configured correctly?

Thanks,

Al


----------



## arftech

Any ideas or reasons why my 50V 3D is producing that popping sound when using the balanced analog connections when pressing 2-chan Bal? Also, Analog DSP makes an echo type of sound. What could be causing these issues? BTW, I was able to run ARC under Windows 10 with good results.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ An echo sound typically means you are also getting audio out of your TV speakers. Make sure the TV's built in speakers are turned off.
--Bob


----------



## AVfile

arftech said:


> Any ideas or reasons why my 50V 3D is producing that popping sound when using the balanced analog connections when pressing 2-chan Bal? Also, Analog DSP makes an echo type of sound. What could be causing these issues? BTW, I was able to run ARC under Windows 10 with good results.



What are your settings for the 2-chan source? 

Try disabling ARC ROOM EQ and see if the echo stops, if it's not the TV like Bob said.


----------



## Doright

Hi all, 
Long time member who's finally doing some upgrades after many years. 
Here's my setup: New Oppo 203 running directly to a new JVC RS400. I still have my old Anthem D2 and I'm trying to use the secondary HDMI audio from the Oppo to the D2 for sound, with no luck. I've tried every possible setting in the Oppo and the Anthem with no luck. The weird thing is, when I turn on my regular TV and go into settings on the Anthem, I start hearing the sound from the Oppo but when I back out of the settings, the sound goes off. Any ideas ? Thanks for your help!


Sent from my iPad


----------



## dmusoke

Hi:


Does anyone know how ARC behaves below 20Hz in flat mode? 

Does it stop compensating, allowing the natural frequency response of the room to come through? 

Does it have some sort of infrasonic filter where it cuts off all LF energy? If so, at what frequency does this occur?

Just bought my new SVS SB16 subwoofers which have significant LF frequency below 20Hz in my room. I wanted to know what ARC does to these frequencies...


Thx,
David


----------



## tranle

dmusoke said:


> Hi:
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how ARC behaves below 20Hz?
> 
> Does it stop compensating, allowing the natural frequency response of the room to come through?
> 
> Does it have some sort of infrasonic filter where it cuts off all LF energy? If so, at what frequency does this occur?
> 
> Just bought my new SVS SB16 subwoofers which have significant LF frequency below 20Hz in my room. I wanted to know what ARC does to these frequencies...
> 
> 
> Thx,
> David


I do not think that it is a problem with ARC itself (it is just software). The default is put there for protection of your subwoofer. But you can switch to 'flat' mode and extends the correction to below 20Hz. Although I do not know how far down the mic is calibrated and can measure.

For ARC to be effective you need to make sure that microphone can measure it and the room does not interfere too much because it will use an average for your listening position.


----------



## dmusoke

Thanks Tranle ... I assumed the flat mode configuration, which I, unfortunately didn't indicate in my original post. My fear is that ARC may have undefeatable subsonic filters, which not be good for me. 

I know ARC EQs down to 20Hz but hope it's just passthrough downwards.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dmusoke said:


> Thanks Tranle ... I assumed the flat mode configuration, which I, unfortunately didn't indicate in my original post. My fear is that ARC may have undefeatable subsonic filters, which not be good for me.
> 
> I know ARC EQs down to 20Hz but hope it's just passthrough downwards.


If you have FLAT set in the Advanced Sub configuration and are using the current firmware and version of ARC then there is no roll-off down there for the Sub output.

It's even possible to disable the protective roll-off for Full Range speakers. Set them to Full Range and then put an "f" in the Crossover frequency field.

Turning off the subsonic protection for the Sub or for main speakers should only be done if you are certain your Sub (or speakers) have their own built-in protection against high energy coming in at frequencies which are too low for them to handle without damage. Be aware that some audio tracks out there have large energy at very low frequencies, typically because the studio monitors were not able to reproduce those frequencies and so they were allowed to remain, undetected.
--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Bob Pariseau said:


> If you have FLAT set in the Advanced Sub configuration and are using the current firmware and version of ARC then there is no roll-off down there for the Sub output.
> 
> It's even possible to disable the protective roll-off for Full Range speakers. Set them to Full Range and then put an "f" in the Crossover frequency field.
> 
> Turning off the subsonic protection for the Sub or for main speakers should only be done if you are certain your Sub (or speakers) have their own built-in protection against high energy coming in at frequencies which are too low for them to handle without damage. Be aware that some audio tracks out there have large energy at very low frequencies, typically because the studio monitors were not able to reproduce those frequencies and so they were allowed to remain, undetected.
> --Bob


Thanks Bob, I'm using the D2v with 3.09h FW. I hope this is the latest version of it for this series of processors.


----------



## dmusoke

Is it normal that ARC takes 30-40 minutes (or more) to upload its configuration to the D2v? I'm using SW version 3.09h... I tried changing baud rates 9600baud to 192kBaud. Same results.


----------



## tranle

dmusoke said:


> Is it normal that ARC takes 30-40 minutes (or more) to upload its configuration to the D2v? I'm using SW version 3.09h... I tried changing baud rates 9600baud to 192kBaud. Same results.


My upload take around 10~15 minutes because it does multiple upload (dsp and volume level, ...).
But make sure that use a Keyspan USB to Serial and I would leave all the rs232 (serial) speed to default. The software seems to be using the rs232 protocol without the hardware xon/xoff handshake and it does its own checksum. So if your connection is too fast or has too many error it will do a lot of retry and slow down.


----------



## Nicoff

I used to own a D2 unit and decided to move away when there seem to be no D3 in sight.
I have not visited this thread in a while but stopped by to check on the newest information on the D2/D2V units and sucessors. I am surprised to read that the D2V is now considered a dead end and no direct replacement in sight. Maybe the price level/demand is not worth the effort to Anthem? I loved my D2 and kept lurking for a D3 version. Sounds like it was not to be.


----------



## Thxtheater

The AVM60 is a better sounding unit than the D2 from people who have owned both. Probably not a bad time to jump to an AVM 60. If there is a D3 on the horizon then the AVM 60 will still be a prime unit for resale.


----------



## AVfile

Doright said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Long time member who's finally doing some upgrades after many years.
> 
> Here's my setup: New Oppo 203 running directly to a new JVC RS400. I still have my old Anthem D2 and I'm trying to use the secondary HDMI audio from the Oppo to the D2 for sound, with no luck. I've tried every possible setting in the Oppo and the Anthem with no luck. The weird thing is, when I turn on my regular TV and go into settings on the Anthem, I start hearing the sound from the Oppo but when I back out of the settings, the sound goes off. Any ideas ? Thanks for your help!



Any luck? 

I have a slightly different problem with the UDP-203. No audio on the main output but I do get audio on the "audio only" output.


----------



## wse

Thxtheater said:


> The AVM60 is a better sounding unit than the D2 from people who have owned both. Probably not a bad time to jump to an AVM 60. If there is a D3 on the horizon then the AVM 60 will still be a prime unit for resale.


And three times less expensive


----------



## Bob Pariseau

AVfile said:


> Any luck?
> 
> I have a slightly different problem with the UDP-203. No audio on the main output but I do get audio on the "audio only" output.


If you have both HDMI outputs of the OPPO 203 connected, there is no audio on Main HDMI. Only on Audio HDMI.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Bob Pariseau said:


> If you have both HDMI outputs of the OPPO 203 connected, there is no audio on Main HDMI. Only on Audio HDMI.



The problem is when only the Main output is connected to the AVM50v3D (i.e. normal configuration) with the Anthem video processor in Passthrough mode. If I use Main and Audio outputs in a split configuration it works as expected. 

Have you tried the 203 on your D2v3D in normal configuration?

Also like the other fellow stated, audio starts working when entering the Anthem Setup menu and stops upon exit. The other way it "works" is with the Anthem video processing enabled (not Passthrough) which means no 3D.

I have sent logs to Oppo.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ With the LG E6, I've found I have to disable the E6's HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color for the HDMI input in the E6 being fed by the Anthem. This works for normal Blu-ray and 3D/Blu-ray without losing anything, and of course the Anthem can't pass 4K so no problem.

I don't know if that's related to what you are seeing with your Display.

Since the Anthem can't pass 4K, I normally use dual HDMI cabling, of course.
--Bob


----------



## dlynch34

Thxtheater said:


> The AVM60 is a better sounding unit than the D2 from people who have owned both. Probably not a bad time to jump to an AVM 60. If there is a D3 on the horizon then the AVM 60 will still be a prime unit for resale.



Did someone do a side by side comparison of this? I am surprised if that is true. I am not saying the avm 60 is a bad unit I just know how great sounding the d2v has been.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dlynch34 said:


> Did someone do a side by side comparison of this? I am surprised if that is true. I am not saying the avm 60 is a bad unit I just know how great sounding the d2v has been.


The post cited AVM 60 vs D2, not D2v. It's been a long time since I played with a D2. Based on my experience it is NOT the case that the AVM 60 sounds better then a D2v or D2v/3D when both are set up correctly.
--Bob


----------



## gjwAudio

Bob Pariseau said:


> The post cited AVM 60 vs D2, not D2v. It's been a long time since I played with a D2. Based on my experience it is NOT the case that the AVM 60 sounds better then a D2v or D2v/3D when both are set up correctly.
> --Bob


Hi Bob

Can you please point to the post(s) - or give the simplified explanation - of why D2v/3D units have improved audio compared with D2's ? I'm curious to learn what I might be missing out on (sonically)... and is an AVM 60 the smart way to get there.

BTW, no interest here in going beyond 5.1 speaker compliment.

Thanks.


----------



## AVfile

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ With the LG E6, I've found I have to disable the E6's HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color for the HDMI input in the E6 being fed by the Anthem. This works for normal Blu-ray and 3D/Blu-ray without losing anything, and of course the Anthem can't pass 4K so no problem.



So the 203 works on your D2v3D in Passthrough mode! Any other 203 owners care to chime in?

It seems I have always had odd HDMI issues ever since the 3D upgrade was installed by anthem. I wonder if the board is defective or not properly installed.


----------



## buddy4711

*Bi-amping my D2 A5 combo*

Hello,

haven't been here for a while but returning now. I still have an old D2 and an A5 main amp and it is still running w/o issues!

I want to start a new project which is bi-amping my speakers FR and FL. I am running a 5.1 system but use only 3 channels on the main (FL, FR and Center) since SR and SL are active LS and divert directly from the D2. This way 2 channels on the mains are unused.

I searched a bit about this technology and found a solution by using a 2 Y links from the preamp's FR and FL channels to the corresponding channels input on the main (3 as before) and to the additional 2 channels (which are usually used for SR and SL) and hence from here with 2 LS cables to each LS.

Is this a proper set-up for a bi-amping strategy regarding my specific setup? For any hints I am very thankful. 

Or is there another (smart) way to achieve the same? E.g. using the empty channels for Zone 2 / 2nd center or 2nd sub on the D2 and connect these directly to the main amp using the additional XLR cables (I noticed in the manual there is a setting in Audio Output which let one choose between Zone 2 for L/R output or use a 2nd center or subwoover. But with these I think I am running into volume issues; I have not found a setting that let me combined adjust the volume for both main zone and zone 2.

Any suggestions regarding crossover settings? I plan to feed the bass speakers with one amp and trebble+high with the second.

Any other suggestions which I might not be aware off?

Thank you!

Juerg


----------



## gerard1meehan

I am running a bi amp configuration with my D2v. I utilize Y'd XLR cable from the right and left channel into the amps.


----------



## bohaiboy

*D2V 3D HDMI not compliant with 4k*

I was thinking about getting a 4K telly, so I checked with Anthem directly to see if the D2V. Anthem's tech support reply is that the HDMI technology is from 2012. 4k HDMI technology was introduced in 2015, so due to HDCP the Anthem cannot pass a 4K signal thru. Seems like a $9000 cluster to me. Here is their exact quote "FEB 16, 2017 | 09:45AM EST 
Andrew B replied:
Good Morning Tim,
Typically for runs longer than 6 ft, it is recommended to use active cables as they will allow you to go further distances without degrading the signal. As for the D2V and 4K, due to the HDMI spec on the D2V being from 2012 and the 4K standard being from 2015, it will not allow the video to pass due to HDCP. Have a nice day!"


----------



## cvinfig

bohaiboy said:


> I was thinking about getting a 4K telly, so I checked with Anthem directly to see if the D2V. Anthem's tech support reply is that the HDMI technology is from 2012. 4k HDMI technology was introduced in 2015, so due to HDCP the Anthem cannot pass a 4K signal thru. Seems like a $9000 cluster to me. Here is their exact quote "FEB 16, 2017 | 09:45AM EST
> Andrew B replied:
> Good Morning Tim,
> Typically for runs longer than 6 ft, it is recommended to use active cables as they will allow you to go further distances without degrading the signal. As for the D2V and 4K, due to the HDMI spec on the D2V being from 2012 and the 4K standard being from 2015, it will not allow the video to pass due to HDCP. Have a nice day!"


No *****, you'd think they'd be able to utilize their time machine to address this egregious error! Or, you know, you could just run your 4K source directly to your 4K display - thus far all UHD players have dual HDMI outputs so audio could still run through the D2V.


Sorry, couldn't resist.


----------



## bohaiboy

*D2V 3D HDMI not compliant with 4k*

I was thinking about getting a 4K telly, so I checked with Anthem directly to see if the D2V. Anthem's tech support reply is that the HDMI technology is from 2012. 4k HDMI technology was introduced in 2015, so due to HDCP the Anthem cannot pass a 4K signal thru. Seems like a $9000 cluster to me. Here is their exact quote "FEB 16, 2017 | 09:45AM EST 
Andrew B replied:
Good Morning Tim,
Typically for runs longer than 6 ft, it is recommended to use active cables as they will allow you to go further distances without degrading the signal. As for the D2V and 4K, due to the HDMI spec on the D2V being from 2012 and the 4K standard being from 2015, it will not allow the video to pass due to HDCP. Have a nice day!"


----------



## bohaiboy

cvinfig said:


> No *****, you'd think they'd be able to utilize their time machine to address this egregious error! Or, you know, you could just run your 4K source directly to your 4K display - thus far all UHD players have dual HDMI outputs so audio could still run through the D2V.
> 
> 
> Sorry, couldn't resist.


Would the lip syncing be off with running audio thru the D2V and video directly to source?


----------



## bohaiboy

bohaiboy said:


> Would the lip syncing be off with running audio thru the D2V and video directly to source?


Some of the streaming devices, like Amazons FireTV, already have 4K streaming if content is available and have only one outlet.


----------



## AVfile

bohaiboy said:


> Some of the streaming devices, like Amazons FireTV, already have 4K streaming if content is available and have only one outlet.



Oppo UDP-203 has an HDMI input for that.


----------



## arftech

bohaiboy said:


> Would the lip syncing be off with running audio thru the D2V and video directly to source?



I have not experienced lip syncing issues ruuning a 25' HDMI (video only) cable from the 203 to my TV. I run a separate HDMI (for audio) cable from the 203 to my Anthem.


----------



## AVfile

Does anyone know the latest revision of the HDMI mezzanine board for the 3D upgrade? 

Are there any known issues driving an active HDMI cable from it?


----------



## buddy4711

*Settings for USB to serial adapter*

Hello, I am looking for help!

I was running ARC on a D2 with a direct RS-232 connection directly to my old PC and this was running fine. Now, I do not have that PC anymore but another one only with USB ports. I searched the web and also this thread and probably the Keyspan Adapter would fix my connection problem. Unfortunately the Tripp Lite Keyspan is not available over here. I tried with 2 other brands on Windows 10 PC but no luck, just frustration. 

I was wondering if anybody can give me some hints which property values on the adapter must be chosen (the defaults are listed underneath):

Bits per second: 9600
Databits: 8
Parity: None
Stoppbits: 2
Flow Control: none

In the extended setup page there is a checkbox set to yes for FIFO-Puffer usage (requires 16550 compatible UART). Thereafter comes also a slider to change Input-Puffer and Transmission-Puffer. Different lower values than the max default settings I tried already, but that did not make a success as well. 

The adapter is shown as COM6.

I tried many different settings, no luck but lots of frustration. The message I get from ARC software is: error - could not find any D1/D2 devices (or similar)

Thanks for any help!
Juerg


----------



## gerard1meehan

buddy4711 said:


> Hello, I am looking for help!
> 
> I was running ARC on a D2 with a direct RS-232 connection directly to my old PC and this was running fine. Now, I do not have that PC anymore but another one only with USB ports. I searched the web and also this thread and probably the Keyspan Adapter would fix my connection problem. Unfortunately the Tripp Lite Keyspan is not available over here. I tried with 2 other brands on Windows 10 PC but no luck, just frustration.
> 
> I was wondering if anybody can give me some hints which property values on the adapter must be chosen (the defaults are listed underneath):
> 
> Bits per second: 9600
> Databits: 8
> Parity: None
> Stoppbits: 2
> Flow Control: none
> 
> In the extended setup page there is a checkbox set to yes for FIFO-Puffer usage (requires 16550 compatible UART). Thereafter comes also a slider to change Input-Puffer and Transmission-Puffer. Different lower values than the max default settings I tried already, but that did not make a success as well.
> 
> The adapter is shown as COM6.
> 
> I tried many different settings, no luck but lots of frustration. The message I get from ARC software is: error - could not find any D1/D2 devices (or similar)
> 
> Thanks for any help!
> Juerg


I will not be of any help on the "settings". However where is "over here"? I ask as Amazon/us/UK & Germany all have the adaptor and between the three they tend to ship worldwide

Hope that helps


----------



## AVfile

buddy4711 said:


> I was wondering if anybody can give me some hints which property values on the adapter must be chosen (the defaults are listed underneath):
> 
> 
> 
> Bits per second: 9600
> 
> Databits: 8
> 
> Parity: None
> 
> Stoppbits: 2
> 
> Flow Control: none
> 
> 
> 
> In the extended setup page there is a checkbox set to yes for FIFO-Puffer usage (requires 16550 compatible UART).



Doesn't your D2 user manual spec the RS-232 properties?

If you're using a USB adaptor then technically you don't have a UART so you should leave those extended setup options alone.


----------



## buddy4711

I tried again all kind of combinations, also matching the RS-232 settings on the Anthem to the ones at the Adapter, but hey...no luck...it just doesn't work. I will order now the damn Keyspan Adapter....thanks for feedback


----------



## doubleroll

buddy4711 said:


> I tried again all kind of combinations, also matching the RS-232 settings on the Anthem to the ones at the Adapter, but hey...no luck...it just doesn't work. I will order now the damn Keyspan Adapter....thanks for feedback




I tried all those settings as well (and I am in IT) nothing worked. I reached out to Anthem tech support, they recommended the keyspan. That worked out the box. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jeff442

*D2 vs D2V*

Hello to all of you Anthem owners out there. I'm hoping to join the club soon as well! I currently own an Aragon Stage One with 5.1 analog inputs. In order to play the DTS Master and other high bitrate audio formats from Bluray, I am currently using my Oppo BDP93 Nuforce to decode the signal and output via the analog 5.1 outputs. I'd like to minimize the number of wires I have running between my components. I also don't like the speaker setup options on the BDP93. I do not have any desire for HDMI video switching but would like to be able to use DTS Master and Dolby TrueHD via HDMI for audio only. The Anthem D2V is a bit out of my price range but the D2 looks like it might fit the bill. Just to confirm, I want to know if there would be no differences as far as sound between the D2 with my Oppo doing the decoding and passing the signal over HDMI vs the D2V taking encoded signal and doing the decoding, correct? 

If I have the Oppo do the decoding but pass the signal over HDMI to the D2, I would no longer need to worry about using the speaker setup (distance, levels, etc) on the Oppo, correct? 

Also, just curious as to whether the wings on faceplate of the D2 are removeable. Will I be able to take them off in order to fit in my A/V cabinet?


----------



## tranle

buddy4711 said:


> I tried again all kind of combinations, also matching the RS-232 settings on the Anthem to the ones at the Adapter, but hey...no luck...it just doesn't work. I will order now the damn Keyspan Adapter....thanks for feedback


I seems also to remember that the Anthem software did not like COM above 4 try to remap your COM to 1,2,3 or 4.


----------



## AVfile

jeff442 said:


> Hello to all of you Anthem owners out there. I'm hoping to join the club soon as well! I currently own an Aragon Stage One with 5.1 analog inputs. In order to play the DTS Master and other high bitrate audio formats from Bluray, I am currently using my Oppo BDP93 Nuforce to decode the signal and output via the analog 5.1 outputs. I'd like to minimize the number of wires I have running between my components. I also don't like the speaker setup options on the BDP93. I do not have any desire for HDMI video switching but would like to be able to use DTS Master and Dolby TrueHD via HDMI for audio only. The Anthem D2V is a bit out of my price range but the D2 looks like it might fit the bill. Just to confirm, I want to know if there would be no differences as far as sound between the D2 with my Oppo doing the decoding and passing the signal over HDMI vs the D2V taking encoded signal and doing the decoding, correct?
> 
> If I have the Oppo do the decoding but pass the signal over HDMI to the D2, I would no longer need to worry about using the speaker setup (distance, levels, etc) on the Oppo, correct?
> 
> Also, just curious as to whether the wings on faceplate of the D2 are removeable. Will I be able to take them off in order to fit in my A/V cabinet?


Hi jeff, we went over this recently.

The D2v and Avm50v do sound a bit better than the D2 / Avm50, even via HDMI. Search this thread for "comparison chart" to find why. There is also the "nice to have" decoding of DTS HDMA and Dolby TrueHD in the v models. Yes your Oppo can do this too, and all models will accept PCM 5.1 via HDMI, but it's good to have the option of doing it both ways for compatibility reasons.

Also regarding the faceplate ears, the 50v does not have them and might be more in your budget.


----------



## jo5507

jeff442 said:


> Hello to all of you Anthem owners out there. I'm hoping to join the club soon as well! I currently own an Aragon Stage One with 5.1 analog inputs. In order to play the DTS Master and other high bitrate audio formats from Bluray, I am currently using my Oppo BDP93 Nuforce to decode the signal and output via the analog 5.1 outputs. I'd like to minimize the number of wires I have running between my components. I also don't like the speaker setup options on the BDP93. I do not have any desire for HDMI video switching but would like to be able to use DTS Master and Dolby TrueHD via HDMI for audio only. The Anthem D2V is a bit out of my price range but the D2 looks like it might fit the bill. Just to confirm, I want to know if there would be no differences as far as sound between the D2 with my Oppo doing the decoding and passing the signal over HDMI vs the D2V taking encoded signal and doing the decoding, correct?
> 
> If I have the Oppo do the decoding but pass the signal over HDMI to the D2, I would no longer need to worry about using the speaker setup (distance, levels, etc) on the Oppo, correct?
> 
> Also, just curious as to whether the wings on faceplate of the D2 are removeable. Will I be able to take them off in order to fit in my A/V cabinet?


Yes, your assumptions are all correct. The ears can be removed, but you need to remove the top cover and IIRC, the front panel to get at the screws. I removed mine on a D2V and it's not difficult to do.
As with so many elements in the audio chain, sound quality differences between models is subjective and influenced by many factors, so I wouldn't stress about this. They will all give you very good quality sound.


----------



## jeff442

AVfile said:


> Hi jeff, we went over this recently.
> 
> The D2v and Avm50v do sound a bit better than the D2 / Avm50, even via HDMI. Search this thread for "comparison chart" to find why. There is also the "nice to have" decoding of DTS HDMA and Dolby TrueHD in the v models. Yes your Oppo can do this too, and all models will accept PCM 5.1 via HDMI, but it's good to have the option of doing it both ways for compatibility reasons.
> 
> Also regarding the faceplate ears, the 50v does not have them and might be more in your budget.


So far I'm about 100 pages into this mega-thread. Any idea around what page or what date the comparison chart was posted on?


----------



## AVfile

jeff442 said:


> So far I'm about 100 pages into this mega-thread. Any idea around what page or what date the comparison chart was posted on?



Enter "comparison chart" or any keywords you are interested in to the Search field at the top of this thread. Most recent results will appear first.


----------



## arftech

jeff442 said:


> So far I'm about 100 pages into this mega-thread. Any idea around what page or what date the comparison chart was posted on?



Is this what you're looking for?
https://www.anthemav.com/downloads/avm50_ComparisonChart.pdf


----------



## jeff442

arftech said:


> Is this what you're looking for?
> https://www.anthemav.com/downloads/avm50_ComparisonChart.pdf


Thanks. I'm not sure if that is the chart that AVfile is referring too as lists the 50, 50V and D2V. It doesn't seem to list the D2, which I am trying to compare to the D2V for audio purposes only.


----------



## Shrike645

jeff442 said:


> Thanks. I'm not sure if that is the chart that AVfile is referring too as lists the 50, 50V and D2V. It doesn't seem to list the D2, which I am trying to compare to the D2V for audio purposes only.


I don't remember any comparison chart for them but do remember Bob Pariseau, who had both, saying that while he did not expect it, the D2v did sound slightly better then the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ More than slightly. I was quite surprised at the time.
--Bob


----------



## jeff442

jo5507 said:


> Yes, your assumptions are all correct. The ears can be removed, but you need to remove the top cover and IIRC, the front panel to get at the screws. I removed mine on a D2V and it's not difficult to do.
> As with so many elements in the audio chain, sound quality differences between models is subjective and influenced by many factors, so I wouldn't stress about this. They will all give you very good quality sound.


Thank you very much! This is very helpful. Considering that the going used price for a D2 and a 50V are both $1200-1500, and the fact that I don't need video processing or switching, would you agree that the D2 would provide the best sound quality for the price?


----------



## stanger89

Since this is the greatest knowledgebase of Anthem/ARC setup/tweak knowledge...

I'm looking at getting a new screen, and I'm pondering microperf instead of woven. However I know microperfs generally require a bit of EQ up high to compensate for the screen. Is there any way to do that with an Anthem? I've actually got an MRX1120 now. ARC doesn't correct over 5kHz on the MRXs, and even on the AVMs it didn't allow you to boost treble IIRC. 

Has anyone done this? Can you just boost the treble control? Or is that not accurate enough?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

stanger89 said:


> Since this is the greatest knowledgebase of Anthem/ARC setup/tweak knowledge...
> 
> I'm looking at getting a new screen, and I'm pondering microperf instead of woven. However I know microperfs generally require a bit of EQ up high to compensate for the screen. Is there any way to do that with an Anthem? I've actually got an MRX1120 now. ARC doesn't correct over 5kHz on the MRXs, and even on the AVMs it didn't allow you to boost treble IIRC.
> 
> Has anyone done this? Can you just boost the treble control? Or is that not accurate enough?


Do an ARC Measurement pass and see what you've actually got up there. Depending on your speakers, you may not even need any compensation.

The Statement pre-pros (including the AVM 50v) let you raise the upper limit for ARC correction above 5kHz. You need to do that judiciously because treble measurements are directional and so you may not get good enough readings up there to want to "correct" them.

You can also adjust the Treble control to your taste.
--Bob


----------



## jo5507

jeff442 said:


> Thank you very much! This is very helpful. Considering that the going used price for a D2 and a 50V are both $1200-1500, and the fact that I don't need video processing or switching, would you agree that the D2 would provide the best sound quality for the price?


Personally, I would choose the 50V to take advantage of the additional connection flexibility offered. The D2 might have a superior analogue section....at least in technical terms. I haven't read anything that compares the older D2 with the newer 50V. Whether you would hear a significant difference in a blind , side by side test is all that really matters and my subjective opinion is...probably not. And different doesn't mean "better" in any case. Only you can decide if any differences heard are going to increase your enjoyment of the listening experience. If it's primarily for listening to music and you have young golden ears, an excellent room, and outstanding speakers, amps, etc, then I would look more closely at potential differences. Otherwise I believe either choice will provide excellent results.


----------



## AVfile

jeff442 said:


> Thank you very much! This is very helpful. Considering that the going used price for a D2 and a 50V are both $1200-1500, and the fact that I don't need video processing or switching, would you agree that the D2 would provide the best sound quality for the price?





jeff442 said:


> Thanks. I'm not sure if that is the chart that AVfile is referring too as lists the 50, 50V and D2V. It doesn't seem to list the D2, which I am trying to compare to the D2V for audio purposes only.


That is the chart. You need to weigh the benefits of the better analog parts quality in the Statement series versus the better HDMI handling of the v-series. Are you using mainly HDMI or SPDIF digital sources? Any analog sources?

Print it out and highlight the differences between the 50 and 50v. The D2 will not have the additional features that the 50v has over the 50. Then highlight the differences between the 50v and D2v in a different color. That should give you the other delta.


----------



## jeff442

AVfile said:


> That is the chart. You need to weigh the benefits of the better analog parts quality in the Statement series versus the better HDMI handling of the v-series. Are you using mainly HDMI or SPDIF digital sources? Any analog sources?
> 
> Print it out and highlight the differences between the 50 and 50v. The D2 will not have the additional features that the 50v has over the 50. Then highlight the differences between the 50v and D2v in a different color. That should give you the other delta.


Thanks - that helps. For 2 channel listening, I use the analog outs in the Oppo as it has the upgraded Nuforce ouput board. I have no need for HDMI switching as I have enough inputs on my TV to accommodate my Oppo Bluray, Xfinity cable box, Logitech Squeezebox, and Apple TV. The cable, squeezebox, and Apple TV are feeding 5.1 audio to my current processor via SPDIF. 

As I will not be using any of the video processing/switching capabilities of the processor, I want to limit my comparison to audio performance only. Based on the chart, here is what is making the D2 look more attractive than the 50V, at least for my application:

-Premium ADC's and DAC's 
-Premium parts in analog audio section

What appears to be lacking in the D2 vs the 50V would be:

-DTS Master and Dolby TrueHD decoding in processor (Since my Oppo can decode and pass LPCM to the D2, this should be a non factor)
-ARC-1 standard (90% of the used models I have looked at include the ARC-1 kit, so again non factor)
-Larger lip synch range (hard to say if there would be much benefit here)

I am unsure if I am missing out on anything with these remaining options that I noted as missing in the D2 vs the 50V:

-Multi channel PCM input limited to 5.1 24bit/96khz vs 7.1 24bit/192khz. Not sure how this might come into play based on my application
-Dual core, dual processor audio DSP on the 50V. Again, not sure if this is pertinent, based on how I plan on connecting my components


----------



## dmusoke

A frightening and recent experience I had with my beloved D2v...both the left/right channels 'died' or went silent for no apparent reason.

I tried all kinds of solutions as I thought maybe my front main speakers died ...nope! ---- My amp channels died ...nope! ---- My Oppo BD analog channels died ...nope! ----Multiple power on/off cycles --- nope!

After contemplating unplugging the whole mess from the HT rack and returning it to Anthem, I didn't like that one bit so I tried one more thing... Perform a 'Flash Erase' on the unit. This failed for my D2v processor couldn't be found by the Flash Eraser program.

Lastly, I performed a FW install (I have v3.09h). This time, I matched Anthems recommended RS-232 settings with Keystones RS 232 settings just to be sure (8 data bits, No parity, 2 stop bits with no flow control @115K).


Voila! Lights! Cue up the heavenly choir ! It seemed some flash/EEPROM bits that turn on the D2v output dacs had been changed to turn them off. How? I dunno!

I reloaded ARC just in case and was surprised it loaded rather quickly, less than 10 minutes. Formerly, it could take up to 1 hour!!! Why? I dunno...but the mismatch in RS232 settings between laptop and D2v had an effect. Anthem had wanted me to live with the slow upload or ship it back for repair (sigh!). 


In summary, when something goes funky in your setup with the 50v/D2v, don't be shy to reset and re-flash everything before you pull it out of your rack to ship it back to Anthem.


----------



## AVfile

jeff442 said:


> I am unsure if I am missing out on anything with these remaining options that I noted as missing in the D2 vs the 50V:
> 
> 
> 
> 1-Multi channel PCM input limited to 5.1 24bit/96khz vs 7.1 24bit/192khz. Not sure how this might come into play based on my application
> 
> 2-Dual core, dual processor audio DSP on the 50V. Again, not sure if this is pertinent, based on how I plan on connecting my components



1-Not sure how many speakers you have? If you have a 7.1 setup and watch movies on Blu-ray this is important. 

2-Anthem has stated the dual core upgrade was overkill as the single core processors were never maxed out. 

You skipped the second item in the chart which will affect the audio performance of your Oppo when connected via HDMI (it's not just for video). How much I cannot say, but Bob's reply suggests that it is significant.


----------



## dfaith

Help, I've been reading for hours on this informative forum and have tried I believe every setting in the 50v3d re
"Video Transcoding  allows S-Video and Component Video inputs to be digitally processed and enhanced and then routed through the Component Video and HDMI outputs".

I have a Lazer player I can't part with as Pink Floyd Delicate Sound of Thunder isn't available on DVD.
The s-video out to the AVM50 will not pass to hdmi.
Please what the heck am I doing wrong.

Also is it normal to get a "snick" noise after pausing a video program for a time when resuming play.

Thanks for everything


----------



## AVfile

dfaith, 
Yes I get the occasional tiny blast of noise when pausing or loading a movie but not with analog sources. 

Post a picture of your Source Setup menu for the LD input or list the settings.


----------



## dfaith

Wow you are fast.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dfaith said:


> Wow you are fast.


Your problem with S-Video input is simple. Change line "c", Scaler Input, from HDMI 1 to the S-Video you are using. 

That line sets which video input will be "processed" when you select this Source. 
--Bob


----------



## dfaith

Wow, I can't thank you enough. Clearly I hadn't tried that.
Switching from BD to LD works perfect. I only have a bit of video noise at the top which I will just rack out the projector to get rid of.

You folks are amazing.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ You can go into the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold "7" button while viewing the LD) and turn on Edge trim. That's a setting per Source so it will only affect the LD output. 
--Bob


----------



## dfaith

WOW again, works like a charm.
I'm reading every page of the forum starting August 2012 when I believe the 50v3d was released to learn as much as I can.
Thank soooo much Bob


----------



## buddy4711

buddy4711 said:


> I tried again all kind of combinations, also matching the RS-232 settings on the Anthem to the ones at the Adapter, but hey...no luck...it just doesn't work. I will order now the damn Keyspan Adapter....thanks for feedback


In the meantime I got the Keyspan and after driver setup and changing the port from COM8 to Com1 it worked like a charm! Unbelievable that I spent hours trying to fix 2 other not even cheap USB to serial adapters...

thanks for the suggestions..


----------



## AVfile

dfaith said:


> You folks are amazing.



You deserve it. Have you run ARC yet? I am curious how you think it works with your speakers.


----------



## dfaith

AVfile, Thanks for your interest.
ARC is simply amazing.
My Anthem/Bryston/MartinLogan/M&K system has never sounded better.

ARC in my simple words removes the bloat and looseness in the bass, now tight, quick with impact.

The entire front stage is more lively, more 3 dimensional, much more like a live performance, the speakers have vanished.
This is the first time I haven't increased the center trim by 5 dB just to hear what the heck was said.
I've been gunning for an Anthem for years, very pleased I took the plunge.

Thanks for the tips.


----------



## dfaith

OK my guru's here's one I can't find info on.
I'm running a pair of Bryston 7b ST balanced.
The Bryston 9b ST currently RCA's, I've ordered 5 Blue Jean Cable balanced cables.
Will I have to run ARC again.
I don't know what we all would do without all you brilliant minds.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dfaith said:


> OK my guru's here's one I can't find info on.
> I'm running a pair of Bryston 7b ST balanced.
> The Bryston 9b ST currently RCA's, I've ordered 5 Blue Jean Cable balanced cables.
> Will I have to run ARC again.
> I don't know what we all would do without all you brilliant minds.


I'd say yes.

ARC deals primarily with room response characteristics, speaker placement within the room, and speaker output. Amp characteristics are secondary EXCEPT for level. XLR is 6dB hotter than RCA per channel, but the amps may already compensate for that.

I'd say measure levels with your SPL meter prior to the change and then after the change. If they match then there's no immediate need to redo ARC, but you should still plan to do it sooner rather than latter. If they don't match, and there's no easy fix like flipping a 6dB switch on the amp inputs, then you should redo ARC right away so it can set the levels properly for you. ARC's level setting is more accurate than you can achieve with an SPL meter, so even with an apparent SPL match you shouldn't rely on the old ARC solution indefinitely. And you shouldn't try to correct the levels manually using the volume trims in the Anthem, as ARC's level setting is a combo of the volume trims and the correction parameters it calculates for each speaker.
--Bob


----------



## AVfile

dfaith said:


> OK my guru's here's one I can't find info on.
> 
> I'm running a pair of Bryston 7b ST balanced.
> 
> The Bryston 9b ST currently RCA's, I've ordered 5 Blue Jean Cable balanced cables.
> 
> Will I have to run ARC again.
> 
> I don't know what we all would do without all you brilliant minds.



I saw the ML and MK speakers in your pic  Glad to hear you are also running Bryston amps. What gain setting are you using on the 7Bs? If 29 dB then just run the 9B at 23 dB when you get the XLRs. Check levels with an SPL meter as Bob said.


----------



## Egan

*LFE output*

I searched but couldn't find an answer for this. I have a D2, is it normal for the subwoofer setting to go back to 0 every time you turn the D2 off? The bass and treble stay the same but I have the subwoofer at +5 and it won't save there. (This is using the sub/LFE button on the remote, not going into the setup menu.) Sorry if this has been covered somewhere but thread is huge.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Egan said:


> I searched but couldn't find an answer for this. I have a D2, is it normal for the subwoofer setting to go back to 0 every time you turn the D2 off? The bass and treble stay the same but I have the subwoofer at +5 and it won't save there. (This is using the sub/LFE button on the remote, not going into the setup menu.) Sorry if this has been covered somewhere but thread is huge.


No that's not normal, but keep in mind that the temporary volume trims, like the Sub/LFE button adjustments are remembered per type of audio input format.

So you'd need to be playing the same type of audio to see if the setting survived the power cycle.
--Bob


----------



## Egan

Bob Pariseau said:


> No that's not normal, but keep in mind that the temporary volume trims, like the Sub/LFE button adjustments are remembered per type of audio input format.
> 
> So you'd need to be playing the same type of audio to see if the setting survived the power cycle.
> --Bob


The bass and treble are remembered regardless of input but the sub always goes back to zero. I don't change the input often it's usually on satellite. Not the end of the world just annoying.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Egan said:


> The bass and treble are remembered regardless of input but the sub always goes back to zero. I don't change the input often it's usually on satellite. Not the end of the world just annoying.


The Sub setting is not remember per Source input. It's remembered per audio input format type. I.e., LPCM 2.0, or DD 5.1.
--Bob


----------



## Egan

Bob Pariseau said:


> The Sub setting is not remember per Source input. It's remembered per audio input format type. I.e., LPCM 2.0, or DD 5.1.
> --Bob


Where in setup is that? My on screen display doesn't work for some reason and I have to navigate using the front of the D2, I hate going in there for fear of messing up the settings. I bought the ARC-1 kit when it came out but using it was a nightmare and haven't changed any settings since. Thanks for your help.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Egan said:


> Where in setup is that? My on screen display doesn't work for some reason and I have to navigate using the front of the D2, I hate going in there for fear of messing up the settings. I bought the ARC-1 kit when it came out but using it was a nightmare and haven't changed any settings since. Thanks for your help.


The setting I'm talking about is one of the "temporary" speaker level trims you access using the buttons on the remote -- i.e., *NOT* in the Setup menu. As I recall, on the D2 remote, these are the 4 buttons on the corners surrounding the 4 Arrow buttons in the middle of the remote.

One of those is the Sub/LFE button. Press once to view the temporary Sub trim in the front panel display. The temporary speaker trims are not found anywhere in Setup menu.

The trick with these temporary settings is that they are tied to a given audio input format, so you have to be playing the type of audio you want to adjust before you make the adjustment or view the current adjustment.
--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Egan said:


> Where in setup is that? My on screen display doesn't work for some reason and I have to navigate using the front of the D2, I hate going in there for fear of messing up the settings. I bought the ARC-1 kit when it came out but using it was a nightmare and haven't changed any settings since. Thanks for your help.


Stop screwing around with tone controls or sub levels and run ARC properly. If you need more bass do it in ARC target options, search for "room gain".


----------



## Egan

Bob Pariseau said:


> The setting I'm talking about is one of the "temporary" speaker level trims you access using the buttons on the remote -- i.e., *NOT* in the Setup menu. As I recall, on the D2 remote, these are the 4 buttons on the corners surrounding the 4 Arrow buttons in the middle of the remote.
> 
> One of those is the Sub/LFE button. Press once to view the temporary Sub trim in the front panel display. The temporary speaker trims are not found anywhere in Setup menu.
> 
> The trick with these temporary settings is that they are tied to a given audio input format, so you have to be playing the type of audio you want to adjust before you make the adjustment or view the current adjustment.
> --Bob


Thanks, I understand what you are saying. I just wish they weren't temporary.


----------



## Egan

AVfile said:


> Stop screwing around with tone controls or sub levels and run ARC properly. If you need more bass do it in ARC target options, search for "room gain".


No I wasn't impressed with the results after ARC and it took forever to do, kept getting error/fail messages which forced me to repeat the measurements over and over again, I'm done with that. Bought a new SVS sub and it's fine with manual adjustments. But thanks so much for your "helpful" advice.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Egan said:


> Thanks, I understand what you are saying. I just wish they weren't temporary.


They aren't "Temporary" in the sense you are talking about. Those volume trims should survive a power cycle.

They are "temporary" in the sense that they are not part of the calibrated setup of you D2 -- the ARC solution. I.e., they are adjustments you make to taste, without altering the actual ARC solution.

If your Sub/LFE button settings are not surviving a power cycle -- and assuming you set them and checked them while playing the same type of audio format -- then there is something wrong with your D2.

Since you also can't get your Setup menu to display on the TV screen you should probably talk to Anthem Tech Support. They will likely suggest you try a re-install of the firmware, which will also mean doing a Reset and re-entering your Setup settings afterwards. (Save your Settings to User or Installer settings memory to speed up the restore after the firmware re-install.) That should include a re-Upload of your ARC solution (no need to re-Measure). The ARC data room correction parameters are not saved when you save settings to the User or Installer memory.

--Bob


----------



## Egan

Bob Pariseau said:


> They aren't "Temporary" in the sense you are talking about. Those volume trims should survive a power cycle.
> 
> They are "temporary" in the sense that they are not part of the calibrated setup of you D2 -- the ARC solution. I.e., they are adjustments you make to taste, without altering the actual ARC solution.
> 
> If your Sub/LFE button settings are not surviving a power cycle -- and assuming you set them and checked them while playing the same type of audio format -- then there is something wrong with your D2.
> 
> Since you also can't get your Setup menu to display on the TV screen you should probably talk to Anthem Tech Support. They will likely suggest you try a re-install of the firmware, which will also mean doing a Reset and re-entering your Setup settings afterwards. (Save your Settings to User or Installer settings memory to speed up the restore after the firmware re-install.) That should include a re-Upload of your ARC solution (no need to re-Measure). The ARC data room correction parameters are not saved when you save settings to the User or Installer memory.
> 
> --Bob


OK thanks Bob, guess I'll just have to deal with it. I don't have the necessary connections on my current computer to do a new firmware install, it was updated to 1.33 years ago. And no longer have the old ARC data and wouldn't be able to re-upload it anyway.


----------



## trvtec

I should be joining the D2 thread next Monday. I am a big fan of Anthem electronics having a 510 upstairs, a 710 downstairs in my listening room (pre, pro, and amp at this point are in use). My listening room is small so ARC helps immensely. Toggling it on and off is a stark, and positive change.

I am about 95% stereo, 5% multichannel audio, no video/movies in this room. Of that 2 channel number, about 95% of that is from my turntable (George Merrill PolyTable "Super 12" for anyone curious) so I route analog into the 710, it gets processed and amplified out to Dyn Focus 260 speakers and two very carefully-set up SVS sealed 12" subs. I don't like "boom" but I like bass I can feel, just the way it is.

So, I found on ebay today a D2 with Arc for $999. I jumped on it, as that's quite a bit lower than I remember seeing on any other used audio gear sites, but I know it isn't the deal of the century by any means. I'm wondering just how much, if any, improvement I'll see over the 710 with how I'm using it.

I do have an outboard amp that should be returning from service later this week, an Odyssey Audio Stratos Plus with a few upgrades done to it. In the meantime, if that's not back by next monday, I will set up the 710 to be "direct mode" or whatever they call it, and have to somehow deal with having two preamps in the chain until I get my Stratos back, but effectively using the amp section of the 710 only.

Once the Odyssey gets back, I may move the 710 upstairs and offload the 510, I'm not quite sure on that yet.

Either way, I'm excited to see how the improved analog and DAC sections work in the D2 compared to my 710. Maybe it won't be much of any difference? I'm not sure.

Now to hunt down a long serial cable...

Todd


----------



## trvtec

Well, I've searched all over and cannot find an answer. My D2 showed up and I've been trying for two days now to get my PC to recognize it as an audio device, using an HDMI cable that goes from my nVidia GPU to any of the HDMI inputs (I've tried them all and mapped the source digital input appropriately within the D2) and I get nothing. No audio device for D2 or AVMX0 or anything showing up in Playback Devices. When I open the nVidia driver/control panel and look, it just says "No device connected for video or audio output" on the HDMI output field. 

Not sure what to try next. I've booted the PC while the D2 was on, and vice versa.

Any ideas or am I just SOL here?


----------



## trvtec

It just got a little more weird. I loaded up the latest Intel drivers to support the onboard GPU/HDMI output and now, when I have the D2 plugged into that output, I still get nothing - until I turn the D2 off. When I power down the D2, I can see it listed as a display option in the Intel graphics control panel. As soon as I power the D2 up, it disappears as a choice in that window, in fact the whole onboard GPU shuts down and is no longer an option in my system tray and so forth. If I check device manager while the unit is off but plugged in via HDMI, I see "Generic PnP monitor" which isn't all that surprising.

I love computers and technology, but this is driving me nuts.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

trvtec said:


> It just got a little more weird. I loaded up the latest Intel drivers to support the onboard GPU/HDMI output and now, when I have the D2 plugged into that output, I still get nothing - until I turn the D2 off. When I power down the D2, I can see it listed as a display option in the Intel graphics control panel. As soon as I power the D2 up, it disappears as a choice in that window, in fact the whole onboard GPU shuts down and is no longer an option in my system tray and so forth. If I check device manager while the unit is off but plugged in via HDMI, I see "Generic PnP monitor" which isn't all that surprising.
> 
> I love computers and technology, but this is driving me nuts.


The usual problem is that the HDMI output card in the PC is trying to use a non-standard resolution for home theater video. Check to be sure you have it set to put out a standard home theater resolution such as 1080i/60. In some cases the problem happens while the card powers up, and it never gets things going again when it tries to use the correct resolution.

You may be able to cure the problem (assuming you have the card set to output the correct stuff), by forcing a new HDMI handshake. Do this by switching the D2 to a different HDMI input (perhaps one that's not even cabled) and back.
--Bob


----------



## trvtec

Hi Bob, thank you! I could see that from the nVidia GPU as it was also outputting 3440 x 1440 to my 34" ultrawide monitor via DisplayPort. Interestingly it doesn't have an issue into the 710 in the same config I tried on the D2 but I do realize the 710 is quite a bit more "modern" than the D2 especially with respect to HDMI ports.

When I get the Intel GPU to recognize the D2 (D2 powered off), it reports a screen resolution of 1280 x 720p x 60 which is what I configured the D2 scaler to be on Video Config 1. I have not tried alternate resolutions on that. If the D2 is not recognized, I don't seem to have a way to alter the output resolution of the Intel GPU.

Regardless, I will play with that a bit more tonight and try to force other handshakes; I only have the one HDMI device so anything else I configure will lack a cable.

Another item that may be noteworthy - I'm using a very good, but quite lengthy HDMI cable; roughly 4M long. The PC and Receiver/D2 are separated by a good bit. Again, no issues with the 710 on the same cable but not sure if that could impact the D2 at all.

I do have a ticket open with Anthem as of Monday night but so far, no response.

Thank you for taking a peek!


----------



## trvtec

Bob Pariseau said:


> The usual problem is that the HDMI output card in the PC is trying to use a non-standard resolution for home theater video. Check to be sure you have it set to put out a standard home theater resolution such as 1080i/60. In some cases the problem happens while the card powers up, and it never gets things going again when it tries to use the correct resolution.
> 
> You may be able to cure the problem (assuming you have the card set to output the correct stuff), by forcing a new HDMI handshake. Do this by switching the D2 to a different HDMI input (perhaps one that's not even cabled) and back.
> --Bob


I think I got it working! I noticed that when the resolution did come up as "Statement D2" in the Intel control panel, the refresh rate was 59 for some reason. I changed that to 60, powered up the D2 and the HDMI went out, but came back on, we were getting somewhere! Now, it still refused to show up as an Audio device, not sure why, but I went ahead and plugged it back into the nVidia GPU, same place it's been for most of my testing, and now it's fine. I just played some audio into it and it shows PCM and all seems to be well.


----------



## buddy4711

*Strange ARC results*

I have made a new ARC measurement and got some strange results.

First I made the speaker calibration within the D2's setup menu using a SPL (wide, C, slow settings). In order to get to 75 Db I had to lower the line level output by some 8 Db. Then made the ARC measurement and got the channel charts with roughly around 60 Db output level (see image 1).

Then I raised the output level in the speaker calibration by +15 DB (the SPL measurements showed around 90 Db now) and rerun ARC. Now the output levels on ARC's chart show around 74 DB within the main frequency range of around 100 Hz to 5 KHz.

What is wrong? is there anything wrong? How would you interpret the charts?
thanks for suggestions.


----------



## jeff442

AVfile said:


> 1-Not sure how many speakers you have? If you have a 7.1 setup and watch movies on Blu-ray this is important.
> 
> 2-Anthem has stated the dual core upgrade was overkill as the single core processors were never maxed out.
> 
> You skipped the second item in the chart which will affect the audio performance of your Oppo when connected via HDMI (it's not just for video). How much I cannot say, but Bob's reply suggests that it is significant.


So after much deliberation, I prioritized the best 2-channel analog possible and went with the D2 instead of the 50v. It arrived in great shape, with the ARC kit and everything. For $1100, I thought it was a pretty good deal. It arrived, worked perfect, and sounded great. Well wouldn't you know, 2 days later I was able to pick up a D2V on ebay for $1500! It was a bit of a gamble as it came with a power cord only and the only assurance was that it would power up. It was just too good of a potential deal to pass up. It arrived last week and I promptly disassembled the case so that I could remove the "wings" on the faceplate and fit the D2V in my entertainment center. The seller included a serial to USB adapter but I could not get my PC to connect to the Anthem for the life of me. I tried every combination of baud and COM ports. Frustrated, I searched this thread and it appeared the Tripp Lite adapter might be the magic bullet. I ordered one from Monoprice and it arrived yesterday. I tried it this morning and it immediately recognized the processor! I tested everything out with each of my components and it works perfect. So now I am the proud owner of an Anthem D2V and I must say, it sounds AWESOME. The last step in getting everything set up properly is using the ARC. I purchased an ARC kit on ebay but the matching serial numbers on the mic and CD, don't match the one on my D2V. I emailed Anthem technical support to see if this was OK. My question for everyone is if I download the ARC-1 software version 3.0.2 and the installer (it downloaded after I entered the D2V serial number), am I good to proceed with trying it?


----------



## jo5507

jeff442 said:


> So after much deliberation, I prioritized the best 2-channel analog possible and went with the D2 instead of the 50v. It arrived in great shape, with the ARC kit and everything. For $1100, I thought it was a pretty good deal. It arrived, worked perfect, and sounded great. Well wouldn't you know, 2 days later I was able to pick up a D2V on ebay for $1500! It was a bit of a gamble as it came with a power cord only and the only assurance was that it would power up. It was just too good of a potential deal to pass up. It arrived last week and I promptly disassembled the case so that I could remove the "wings" on the faceplate and fit the D2V in my entertainment center. The seller included a serial to USB adapter but I could not get my PC to connect to the Anthem for the life of me. I tried every combination of baud and COM ports. Frustrated, I searched this thread and it appeared the Tripp Lite adapter might be the magic bullet. I ordered one from Monoprice and it arrived yesterday. I tried it this morning and it immediately recognized the processor! I tested everything out with each of my components and it works perfect. So now I am the proud owner of an Anthem D2V and I must say, it sounds AWESOME. The last step in getting everything set up properly is using the ARC. I purchased an ARC kit on ebay but the matching serial numbers on the mic and CD, don't match the one on my D2V. I emailed Anthem technical support to see if this was OK. My question for everyone is if I download the ARC-1 software version 3.0.2 and the installer (it downloaded after I entered the D2V serial number), am I good to proceed with trying it?


Replace the calibration file in your Anthem folder with the new file that came with the ARC kit. The calibration file must match the mic for correct measurements.


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## trvtec

jeff442 said:


> So after much deliberation, I prioritized the best 2-channel analog possible and went with the D2 instead of the 50v. It arrived in great shape, with the ARC kit and everything. For $1100, I thought it was a pretty good deal. It arrived, worked perfect, and sounded great. Well wouldn't you know, 2 days later I was able to pick up a D2V on ebay for $1500! It was a bit of a gamble as it came with a power cord only and the only assurance was that it would power up. It was just too good of a potential deal to pass up. It arrived last week and I promptly disassembled the case so that I could remove the "wings" on the faceplate and fit the D2V in my entertainment center. The seller included a serial to USB adapter but I could not get my PC to connect to the Anthem for the life of me. I tried every combination of baud and COM ports. Frustrated, I searched this thread and it appeared the Tripp Lite adapter might be the magic bullet. I ordered one from Monoprice and it arrived yesterday. I tried it this morning and it immediately recognized the processor! I tested everything out with each of my components and it works perfect. So now I am the proud owner of an Anthem D2V and I must say, it sounds AWESOME. The last step in getting everything set up properly is using the ARC. I purchased an ARC kit on ebay but the matching serial numbers on the mic and CD, don't match the one on my D2V. I emailed Anthem technical support to see if this was OK. My question for everyone is if I download the ARC-1 software version 3.0.2 and the installer (it downloaded after I entered the D2V serial number), am I good to proceed with trying it?


I would think that as long as the ARC kit you bought has the calibration file for the included mic, you should be OK as that is how the Anthem will communicate and interpret what the mic is picking up. 

I felt pretty good about getting a D2 for $999, but a D2V for $1500 is a smoking deal, nice!


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## jeff442

trvtec said:


> I would think that as long as the ARC kit you bought has the calibration file for the included mic, you should be OK as that is how the Anthem will communicate and interpret what the mic is picking up.
> 
> I felt pretty good about getting a D2 for $999, but a D2V for $1500 is a smoking deal, nice!


A D2 for $999 is a really good deal as well. I'm hoping I can sell the one I have for close to the $1100 I paid for it as I am currently sitting on $2600 worth of processors, not to mention the Aragon Stage One that the Anthem is replacing.

I have had a hot streak going with used equipment as I was able to find a JL Audio Fathom F113 for sale about a half hour away for $1600. Our first child arrived last Thursday, so I think I should pump the brakes for now as far as upgrades!


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## jeff442

jo5507 said:


> Replace the calibration file in your Anthem folder with the new file that came with the ARC kit. The calibration file must match the mic for correct measurements.


Thanks, jo5507. Just to be clear... I don't have a CD drive on my laptop. So I take all of the files on ARC-1 CD, copy them to my hard drive, but then replace the calibration file with with the ARC_3.0.02 and then proceed?


----------



## trvtec

jeff442 said:


> A D2 for $999 is a really good deal as well. I'm hoping I can sell the one I have for close to the $1100 I paid for it as I am currently sitting on $2600 worth of processors, not to mention the Aragon Stage One that the Anthem is replacing.
> 
> I have had a hot streak going with used equipment as I was able to find a JL Audio Fathom F113 for sale about a half hour away for $1600. Our first child arrived last Thursday, so I think I should pump the brakes for now as far as upgrades!


Oh trust me, I understand. Lately my weakness is vinyl, specifically buying records. Found several hard-to-find things this week and my wallet is feeling it. 

That said, I'm currently shopping for a power amp. I'm of the mind that my Odyssey may never get back from repair. Tried to call last night and didn't even get a voicemail option, just "Caller did not answer. Click." Crikey.

I'm going to sub in an old B&K multich amp I have into the system tonight and run with that for a bit, but it's only utilitarian at best.

Congrats on the newborn (and I mean the child, not the D2V  ), I would love to tell you that you'll get no time to listen to your stereo over the next year or two so "pumping the brakes" happens by default but in our case (ours is almost 3 now), I found really no difference in listening time since everyone else in the house is in bed by 9 and I generally don't go to sleep until well after midnight, lol. And if I have any advice (not that you asked)? Condition the child to loud-ish music/entertainment. Ours can sleep through thunderstorms, popcorn blockbusters, and quasi-Metallica concerts from my audio room downstairs because we always had movies, tv, or music going on in the house from the time she came home with us.


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## trvtec

jeff442 said:


> Thanks, jo5507. Just to be clear... I don't have a CD drive on my laptop. So I take all of the files on ARC-1 CD, copy them to my hard drive, but then replace the calibration file with with the ARC_3.0.02 and then proceed?


Correct


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## jo5507

jeff442 said:


> Thanks, jo5507. Just to be clear... I don't have a CD drive on my laptop. So I take all of the files on ARC-1 CD, copy them to my hard drive, but then replace the calibration file with with the ARC_3.0.02 and then proceed?


Just to be clear, take the .cal file named with the mic serial number from the CD that came with the ARC kit and replace whatever is in the Anthem folder on your laptop with this file. If the file doesn't exist in the downloaded ARC 3.0.2, just copy it into the folder.


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## trvtec

Supertaint said:


> Hopefully this is a silly question...
> 
> I am trying to record vinyl with my anthem avm50v. I have the phono preamp hooked to an analog input. I set input to Analog DSP. Everything plays fine through the speakers. I have a coax connected to digital record out, then to an spdif/usb converter (peachtree x1) then to computer. 16 bit/44.1khz.
> 
> Pushing record on the anthem changes to record for a few seconds and then it resorts back to main. The manual is unfortunately not too helpful.
> 
> I don't want to spend more money on a usb preamp, so is there a "free" way to get this to work?



Hi, I know your post is a couple years old, but did you ever get this sorted? I, too, would like to record vinyl at 24/96 from the D2 into a PC and a SPDIF/USB converter seems to make a lot of sense, but I don't see that you ever fully resolved this?


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## dmusoke

Does Anthem D2v have a music mode that upgrades a stereo 2.0 signal to a 4.1, without the center channel activated?


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## Bob Pariseau

dmusoke said:


> Does Anthem D2v have a music mode that upgrades a stereo 2.0 signal to a 4.1, without the center channel activated?


Not directly as a selectable Surround Mode, but there are two Speaker Configuration setups in the D2v (named Movie and Music, although those are just names of convenience -- as I've often said, you could also refer to them as Fred and Ethel -- there's no difference in how they are processed that makes one more movie-ish and the other more music-y). A common use of these two is to set up Music as a configuration without a Center speaker.

If you play stereo music into that using Stereo output mode you get audio to LF/RF/Sub.

If you play stereo music into that using a Surround Mode like PLIIx-Music, you get LF/RF/Sub and the Surround speakers -- nothing to Center speaker.

If you play multi-channel music into that, Center channel content gets steered equally to LF/RF.

-----------------------------------------

An easy way to set that up in ARC -- without having to measure twice (once for Movie and again for Music) -- is to start by telling ARC that Music is Same AS Movie. Then after you've got your Measurement (just once around for Movie), go into Targets and change that so Music is different. It will still use the single set of Measurement data you already captured. Now go to Center speaker for Music and set its Crossover to "N" -- for No Speaker. Accept those changes to Targets. Re-Calculate and Upload.

The data for Center speaker will still be used for the Movie configuration, but will be ignored for Music configuration.

Alternatively you can set Music as different BEFORE you Measure, and set the Music configuration to not have a Center speaker. You'll have two Measurement passes -- first for Movie and then for Music -- for all mic positions. The advantage of THAT way is if you plan to have your room configured differently when listening to Music. For example if you have a projector screen which you stow when playing Music. (Of course you have to remember to stow the screen before starting the Music Measurement pass.)
--Bob


----------



## dmusoke

Bob Pariseau said:


> Not directly as a selectable Surround Mode, but there are two Speaker Configuration setups in the D2v (named Movie and Music, although those are just names of convenience -- as I've often said, you could also refer to them as Fred and Ethel -- there's no difference in how they are processed that makes one more movie-ish and the other more music-y). A common use of these two is to set up Music as a configuration without a Center speaker.
> 
> If you play stereo music into that using Stereo output mode you get audio to LF/RF/Sub.
> 
> If you play stereo music into that using a Surround Mode like PLIIx-Music, you get LF/RF/Sub and the Surround speakers -- nothing to Center speaker.
> 
> If you play multi-channel music into that, Center channel content gets steered equally to LF/RF.
> --Bob


Perfect Bob, thanks! PLIIx-Music is it since I want surround sound from stereo sources w/o center channel activated. I think Anthem-Music does the same thing but its effects in the surround channels are weak.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I edited my post above with info on how to create a Music configuration like this.
--Bob


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## dmusoke

OK. Thanks ... just found out that PLIIx-Music mode you suggested engages the center channel, so that's a no-go. So the only way to go from 2.0 to 4.1 is to use the Anthem Music mode, I guess.

Yeah, the method you suggested in your edited post is good for MCH music and movies but it doesn't help stereo channels to be matrixed into MCHs without engaging the center channel.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

dmusoke said:


> OK. Thanks ... just found out that PLIIx-Music mode you suggested engages the center channel, so that's a no-go. So the only way to go from 2.0 to 4.1 is to use the Anthem Music mode, I guess.
> 
> Yeah, the method you suggested in your edited post is good for MCH music and movies but it doesn't help stereo channels to be matrixed into MCHs without engaging the center channel.


You haven't followed my instructions correctly.

In ARC, set up a Music speaker configuration WITHOUT A CENTER SPEAKER. Then make sure your Setup > Source Setup line for music listening is set to use that new, Music speaker configuration (instead of Movie).

Then you can use PLIIx-Music surround mode with stereo content from that Source and you will get output on LF/RF/Sub and the Surrounds but no output on Center.
--Bob


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## dmusoke

OK, got it now. Is there a simple way to switch between movie and music modes using the remote w/o having to go through the setup screen?


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## Bob Pariseau

^ The easiest way is just to set up two identical entries in Setup > Source Setup with one using Movie and the other using Music.
--Bob


----------



## trvtec

Finally fixed my EDID issue. A BIOS setting change was in order to make my Intel GPU the "primary" GPU. Once I did that, the D2 shows up as an audio device and the PC and D2 actually connect fine even if I change sources. It does stop playback on Roon when I do so, but that's a very minor thing compared to having to unplug HDMI from the nVidia GPU, plug into onboard HDMI, wait for the D2 to "sync" and then move the HDMI cable back to the nVidia GPU for playback. Otherwise, no ill effects.


----------



## greyflag

I'm toying with the idea of finally replacing my AVM 50 (upgraded with ARC) that has served me well for the last nine years. It's in a living room 5.1 system that will remain that way. I have no need for immersive audio or additional channels. Any lossless decoding can be done from an incoming Oppo 203. 

I have a very attractive trade in offer from a dealer who is a member here on another manufacturer's processor. I'm only interested in a potential improvement in sound (which I know is somewhat subjective). 

Are the DACs in the Oppo superior to the old ones in the Anthem? It seems to me that it would make sense to run analog from the Oppo then set the Anthem to Analog/DSP to utilize ARC. Also, the 203 could eventually migrate downstairs and be replaced by the yet to be released Oppo 205. 

Or.......

Replace the AVM 50 with an AVM 60 or another processor. 

So, to Bob P. and all, any opinions?


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## drhankz

greyflag said:


> Replace the AVM 50 with an AVM 60 or another processor.
> 
> So, to Bob P. and all, any opinions?


I am not Bob but I am an Anthem Owner.

The Anthem Brand will always sound better. 

My VOTE is the AVM 60.

The reason the dealer is giving you a better deal on a Non-Anthem 
product is because that is the only way they can entice you to buy 
something LESS.


----------



## greyflag

drhankz said:


> I am not Bob but I am an Anthem Owner.
> 
> The Anthem Brand will always sound better.
> 
> My VOTE is the AVM 60.
> 
> The reason the dealer is giving you a better deal on a Non-Anthem
> product is because that is the only way they can entice you to buy
> something LESS.


Thanks! Do you or anyone else have any experience with using the analog inputs of a AVM 50 with any of the Oppos? I'm reluctant to give it up unless there's a significant improvement with the AVM 60. The only Anthem dealers in my area that I've contacted are custom install guys and don't appear to be interested in trades. There's always the classifieds....


----------



## Bob Pariseau

greyflag said:


> I'm toying with the idea of finally replacing my AVM 50 (upgraded with ARC) that has served me well for the last nine years. It's in a living room 5.1 system that will remain that way. I have no need for immersive audio or additional channels. Any lossless decoding can be done from an incoming Oppo 203.
> 
> I have a very attractive trade in offer from a dealer who is a member here on another manufacturer's processor. I'm only interested in a potential improvement in sound (which I know is somewhat subjective).
> 
> Are the DACs in the Oppo superior to the old ones in the Anthem? It seems to me that it would make sense to run analog from the Oppo then set the Anthem to Analog/DSP to utilize ARC. Also, the 203 could eventually migrate downstairs and be replaced by the yet to be released Oppo 205.
> 
> Or.......
> 
> Replace the AVM 50 with an AVM 60 or another processor.
> 
> So, to Bob P. and all, any opinions?


If you want to go the all-Analog route, you should look at the OPPO UDP-205 instead of the 203. Details on the 205 are evidently coming out this week with first ship by month's end. The expected difference in the 205 vs the 203 will be an improved Analog output stage -- much as with the OPPO 105 vs. 103.

However, I think you should think seriously about what you are giving up if you move away from Anthem Room Correction. Take a look at your ARC charts and see how much correction ARC is doing in your room. If it is substantial, you won't have that in an all-Analog solution -- i.e., without an AVR or pre-pro that re-digitizes the Analog input so it can be processed for Room Correction.

Now, you can achieve improved results in all-Analog by doing room treatments in your listening room -- primarily targeted at addressing room bass response issues. But that's a good deal more complicated than letting ARC do it. In addition, since it is your living room, you may not appreciate the aesthetics of what room treatments do to that room.

If you are going to use ARC, you should probably stick with HDMI audio -- HDMI LPCM into your existing AVM 50, or HDMI Bitstream into, say an AVM 60. You might also want to check into an AVM 50v or D2v. That avoids the step of re-digitizing the Analog input so it can be processed.
--Bob


----------



## greyflag

Bob Pariseau said:


> If you want to go the all-Analog route, you should look at the OPPO UDP-205 instead of the 203. Details on the 205 are evidently coming out this week with first ship by month's end. The expected difference in the 205 vs the 203 will be an improved Analog output stage -- much as with the OPPO 105 vs. 103.
> 
> However, I think you should think seriously about what you are giving up if you move away from Anthem Room Correction. Take a look at your ARC charts and see how much correction ARC is doing in your room. If it is substantial, you won't have that in an all-Analog solution -- i.e., without an AVR or pre-pro that re-digitizes the Analog input so it can be processed for Room Correction.
> 
> Now, you can achieve improved results in all-Analog by doing room treatments in your listening room -- primarily targeted at addressing room bass response issues. But that's a good deal more complicated than letting ARC do it. In addition, since it is your living room, you may not appreciate the aesthetics of what room treatments do to that room.
> 
> If you are going to use ARC, you should probably stick with HDMI audio -- HDMI LPCM into your existing AVM 50, or HDMI Bitstream into, say an AVM 60. You might also want to check into an AVM 50v or D2v. That avoids the step of re-digitizing the Analog input so it can be processed.
> --Bob


Bob, your expertise is always appreciated! Does redigitizing the analog signal to utilize ARC defeat the purpose of using analog in the first place? I may look for a used D2V or 50V also. Besides lossless decoding, what have you experienced comparing a 50 to a 50V? Even with the search function it will take hours looking through this thread. I've seen the comparison sheet on The Anthem site as well. 

I have a 203 on order BTW. 

Glenn


----------



## Bob Pariseau

greyflag said:


> Bob, your expertise is always appreciated! Does redigitizing the analog signal to utilize ARC defeat the purpose of using analog in the first place? I may look for a used D2V or 50V also. Besides lossless decoding, what have you experienced comparing a 50 to a 50V? Even with the search function it will take hours looking through this thread. I've seen the comparison sheet on The Anthem site as well.
> 
> I have a 203 on order BTW.
> 
> Glenn


It doesn't defeat it. Analog sources should sound very good. But since you've got digital content and a digital way to transmit it over HDMI, there's not really much to gain by converting to Analog, then re-digitizing for processing, then converting back to Analog again.

I've never used a 50 or 50v. When I moved from my D2 to the D2v I was not expecting an improvement in audio, and was quite surprised to find there was an easy to hear audio improvement (for LPCM formats they could both handle).
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

By the way, OPPO just now put up their product page for the new, UDP-205 UHD player:

http://oppodigital.com/blu-ray-udp-205/blu-ray-udp-205-Overview.aspx

--Bob


----------



## greyflag

Of course! My 203 arrives tomorrow. As I understand that I've got a case of upgraditis, I have to remember that I have a dedicated 2 channel system for music. I actually had a high end dealer who carries Anthem tell me that I was better off keeping what I have unless I wanted to upgrade to a $10k+ processor. 

If I'm going to use HDMI for movies, TV, and multi-channel SACD, the variable would be the processor, no?

However, at least two dealers want to sell me power cords....


----------



## gerard1meehan

I am curious if there are any D2v users who run analog sources via AnaologDSP vs AnaolgDIR. 

I have been flipping between the two for my turntable and able to do it on the fly with interesting results. I wanted to know if others utilize this or not. I have done it with ARC on, and off where I am just using the unit’s internal digital crossovers. The results are actually very good, and I am thinking of lowering the EQ frequency for my music configuration to 500 and just see if I can make my base linear and leave the rest alone. I am fortunate that my room is dedicated to listening and is acoustically treated. 


Anyone have any experience in this realm? Thoughts?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ I've done that in my D2v /3D and I've been very pleased with how well the Analog to Digital to Analog path works through the D2v -- i.e., ANALOG DSP with ARC.

Basically the differences I hear are the improvements applied by ARC. I'm NOT hearing any downside to use of the re-digitized path through ARC, but of course that may be masked a bit by the fact that my room is not "treated" so ARC actually has work to do.
--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman

*Oppo 205*



Bob Pariseau said:


> By the way, OPPO just now put up their product page for the new, UDP-205 UHD player:
> 
> http://oppodigital.com/blu-ray-udp-205/blu-ray-udp-205-Overview.aspx
> 
> --Bob


I called this a.m. re: taking orders. The response was vague but I was told that the units
would be ready to ship towards the end of the month (11 days more).


----------



## EricE

Bob Pariseau said:


> By the way, OPPO just now put up their product page for the new, UDP-205 UHD player:
> 
> http://oppodigital.com/blu-ray-udp-205/blu-ray-udp-205-Overview.aspx
> 
> --Bob


Thanks Bob!
You are one of the reasons why I also went from a D2 to a D2V.
Now you are sending me links to the new OPPO!

Now if Anthem were to introduce a D3 or an upgrade to the D2V HDMI board to support 4K, HDR, HDCP 2.2, HDMI 2.0b I will be a happy camper.

As it stands now I'll keep on running the D2V and just use players with dual HDMI outs to get by.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Ed Weinman said:


> I called this a.m. re: taking orders. The response was vague but I was told that the units
> would be ready to ship towards the end of the month (11 days more).


Folks in the US who previously signed up on the interest list are already getting emails with pre-order options quoting one week to shipment.

The regular "Buy" button on OPPO's web site will only go live after the initial rush of interest list orders get handled.
--Bob


----------



## Ed Weinman

Bob Pariseau said:


> Folks in the US who previously signed up on the interest list are already getting emails with pre-order options quoting one week to shipment.
> 
> The regular "Buy" button on OPPO's web site will only go live after the initial rush of interest list orders get handled.
> --Bob


Well, Bob

I just placed my order including card info, etc. with a 3-day delivery request. I hope that it comes yesterday! And, my card was just debited.


----------



## yacht422

Walt here with a question to the brain trust: Bob has long maintained that for HDMI cables, 6 feet is the shortest to use to ensure no handshake issues.
I am replacing all "the stuff", and will be re-cabling accordingly.
So - - - from the new OPPO to the new Anthem AVM 60 etc, I know I'll need (?) cables that handle the new 18ghz data flow (or is it 60 ghz for HDR? )
Are we still limited to the old 6' minimum?
Given that I'll need a 35 footer to the new JVC, I may need a new mortgage as well.
How say the Brain Trust?
As always, my appreciation.

Walt


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It remains the case that 6 feet -- 2 meters -- is the sweet spot length for passive HDMI cables, due to how equalization is done by the electronics at each end.

If you are buying new HDMI cables today, for any purpose, you should be looking for cables labeled HDMI Ultra HD Premium Certified. That's the latest design and testing standard from the big brains at HDMI.ORG, who surely have it right THIS time!

These do not have to be expensive (for normal lengths). Both Monoprice and Blue Jeans cable have reasonably priced cables like this. However, they top out at about 25 feet.

For reliable, longer runs, you'll likely need to go a more esoteric (read "expensive") route. Such as the active optical cables sold by Monoprice. None of these will carry the Premium Certified label, but they are being sold for use with the new, higher bandwidth 4K plus HDR video formats, so they might even work.
--Bob


----------



## yacht422

Bob: as always, a font of knowledge.
Many thanks for the info. 
The 35 footer will, of course, be an issue, not just the cost, 'but I need to 'pull' it thru the plastic pipe I installed when building the room. UGH! Hope the newest super wires are not stiffer than the old ones!
Again, my appreciation

Walt

( As you seem to be THE beta tester for everyone, do you know of any 'issues' 'twixt the OPPO 203 and the Anthem AMV 60?)
can P/M if you prefer


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Ask in the Owners Thread for the 203. There are already people there using it with the AVM 60.
--Bob


----------



## jo5507

yacht422 said:


> Bob: as always, a font of knowledge.
> Many thanks for the info.
> The 35 footer will, of course, be an issue, not just the cost, 'but I need to 'pull' it thru the plastic pipe I installed when building the room. UGH! Hope the newest super wires are not stiffer than the old ones!
> Again, my appreciation
> 
> Walt
> 
> ( As you seem to be THE beta tester for everyone, do you know of any 'issues' 'twixt the OPPO 203 and the Anthem AMV 60?)
> can P/M if you prefer


I have used 50 ft cables for a number of years from my D2V(and before that a Denon) to my Epson projector with no issues at all. The first was a standard flat cable about 1" wide which I pulled through plastic pipe with two 90 degree bends. I then bought a 50' Redmere cable from Monoprice for about $50 IIRC, to see if there was a performance improvement. It's now called the Cabernet Ultra CL2. I couldn't see any difference and both were problem free. I still use the Redmere cable.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ He's going to be pushing 4K video with HDR through that long cable; a problem you've not yet had to face yet with your Redmere technology active cables.
--Bob


----------



## yacht422

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ He's going to be pushing 4K video with HDR through that long cable; a problem you've not yet had to face yet with your Redmere technology active cables.
> --Bob


thanks to bob and jo5507 for their responses.
the next few weeks will be mucho fun for me here in drouth covered Florida

Walt


----------



## yacht422

yacht422 said:


> thanks to bob and jo5507 for their responses.
> the next few weeks will be mucho fun for me here in drouth covered Florida
> 
> Walt


this is an update re: cables.. hooked up the OPPO(203) anthem -60 , bought a 4K movie (Arrival 4K, but not HDR ) and ran it thru my 15 Y/O cable (do not recall where I bought the thick thing) all with no problems at all.
perhaps with HDR this will not be the case - - - waiting for the new JVC projector to arrive for the 'final smoke test'. (HDR) Update after the new projector..
Walt


----------



## Nyutu

Hello all,

Have a ARC question and wanted to see if any of the gurus could help me as I am trying to improve my current ARC measurement

I have the following room config (Quick Mockup below). We only use the middle and left seats on the couch 90% of the time. And I am usually the one seated directly centered to the TV



As you can see the MLP is to the right side of the first seating area of the sofa (Almost in the middle between 1st and middle seat). Problem is that if I place it on the MLP for the first measurement (almost between the 2 seats), on the 2nd and 4th measurement 2' to the left of the MLP, no one is ever going to be sitting there, so not sure if I should be doing that.

Where would you recommend me to place the microphone for the 5 measurements? 

Also along the same lines, my sofa is touching the back wall, should I increase the mic over the sofa headrest? (I know this is recommended on Audyssey, but not sure on ARC)


----------



## Christian Busch

*2.1 D2v configuration*

Hi,

How do I configure the d2v to play 2.1 from stereo signal ? 

Cheers
Christian


----------



## dmusoke

Christian Busch said:


> Hi,
> 
> How do I configure the d2v to play 2.1 from stereo signal ?
> 
> Cheers
> Christian


Use any signal processing mode EXCEPT analog direct, which just passes the signal through from input to output untouched. I presume you have ARC setup prior as either a 5.1 or 7.1 configuration?


----------



## dmusoke

Nyutu said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Have a ARC question and wanted to see if any of the gurus could help me as I am trying to improve my current ARC measurement
> 
> I have the following room config (Quick Mockup below). We only use the middle and left seats on the couch 90% of the time. And I am usually the one seated directly centered to the TV
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the MLP is to the right side of the first seating area of the sofa (Almost in the middle between 1st and middle seat). Problem is that if I place it on the MLP for the first measurement (almost between the 2 seats), on the 2nd and 4th measurement 2' to the left of the MLP, no one is ever going to be sitting there, so not sure if I should be doing that.
> 
> Where would you recommend me to place the microphone for the 5 measurements?
> 
> Also along the same lines, my sofa is touching the back wall, should I increase the mic over the sofa headrest? (I know this is recommended on Audyssey, but not sure on ARC)


Place the mic around the sitting area, the MLP. 

Your 5 positions could as shown below

=====> 4 -----------------------------5

2 -------------------------1(MLP)------------------------- 3

ARC needs to get a complete 3D picture of your entire listening area not just your MLP, hence the need to read positions 3 and 5. Though no one may sit in these positions today, someone may do so at a later date. They too will get to hear the benefits of ARC as well.


----------



## Nyutu

dmusoke said:


> Place the mic around the sitting area, the MLP.
> 
> Your 5 positions could as shown below
> 
> =====> 4 -----------------------------5
> 
> 2 -------------------------1(MLP)------------------------- 3
> 
> ARC needs to get a complete 3D picture of your entire listening area not just your MLP, hence the need to read positions 3 and 5. Though no one may sit in these positions today, someone may do so at a later date. They too will get to hear the benefits of ARC as well.


Thanks so much for the suggestion and also the reasoning behind it and explanation. 

One question though (Maybe my understanding is wrong, so apologies in advance), if I measure it like you suggest the whole sofa will be corrected and it would look something like the following picture,


But it is my understanding that I will not hear the same when seated at position 2 or 3 no matter how good ACR is, to get started due to distance to speakers, right?

So considering that, wouldn't I be hearing a worse performance from the speakers when I seat in my "Real Center" MLP (which is between positions 2 and 1 and just behind position 4) when compared to the "measured MLP" which is in the middle of the sofa and where ACR averaged the 5 measurements? 

Or Should I measure it like the picture above, but then input the speaker distances to the "real center" MLP to ensure I get the full benefit of it?


----------



## dmusoke

Based on your picture above, I'm going to assume that you do not sit in between the sofa cushions ("REAL CENTER"), right? That would be odd but your choice, nonetheless. Can you move the couch to the left so that seat position #1 is within the centerline of the TV?

if you can't and you actually sit in positions 1 or 2 (like I do), that's ok since the D2v accepts your speaker distance measurements relative to your MLP and adjusts the speaker trims and delays accordingly so that you always hear a center image wherever you are seated.


----------



## Nyutu

dmusoke said:


> Based on your picture above, I'm going to assume that you do not sit in between the sofa cushions ("REAL CENTER"), right? That would be odd but your choice, nonetheless. Can you move the couch to the left so that seat position #1 is within the centerline of the TV?
> 
> if you can't and you actually sit in positions 1 or 2 (like I do), that's ok since the D2v accepts your speaker distance measurements relative to your MLP and adjusts the speaker trims and delays accordingly so that you always hear a center image wherever you are seated.


In reality, I do seat just directly in front of the middle of the TV/Center speaker where I pasted the camera icon, but it is not between the cushions as the sofa design has very big seats that fit almost 2 people each, just couldn't find a similar one for the mockup.

So just to clarify the numbers on the photo are "ARC positions for the mic" you recommended, while the camera is where I actually seat and my wife would seat in a couch position between "ARC 1" and "ARC 3"

Moving the couch to the left is not possible as it would block the door that you can see to the bottom left corner, it is as left as it gets so 1 is off-center to the right as in the picture above. 

So with that explained, you still recommend those 5 positions for measurement and then introducing speaker distance measurements to the MLP (REAL CENTER, which is not the same position as the "1")? Or you recommend matching MLP with position 1 which will make the sound shift towards the "unused" area of the sofa?


----------



## dmusoke

Nyutu said:


> In reality, I do seat just directly in front of the middle of the TV/Center speaker where I pasted the camera icon, but it is not between the cushions as the sofa design has very big seats that fit almost 2 people each, just couldn't find a similar one for the mockup.
> 
> So just to clarify the numbers on the photo are "ARC positions for the mic" you recommended, while the camera is where I actually seat and my wife would seat in a couch position between "ARC 1" and "ARC 3"
> 
> Moving the couch to the left is not possible as it would block the door that you can see to the bottom left corner, it is as left as it gets so 1 is off-center to the right as in the picture above.
> 
> So with that explained, you still recommend those 5 positions for measurement and then introducing speaker distance measurements to the MLP (REAL CENTER, which is not the same position as the "1")? Or you recommend matching MLP with position 1 which will make the sound shift towards the "unused" area of the sofa?



Now that you've explained that you have wide seat cushions, then ARC position 1 should be directly where you sit, in front of the middle of the TV/Center speaker, by the camera icon. 

The very first ARC microphone position is where the listener sits. Then, you can move 2 feet to the left and right of it for ARC positions 2 and 3. Positions 4 and 5 would not change as they are in between ARC positions 1 & 2 and 1 & 3, but placed in front of you.

Hope this makes sense...

- David


----------



## Nyutu

dmusoke said:


> Now that you've explained that you have wide seat cushions, then ARC position 1 should be directly where you sit, in front of the middle of the TV/Center speaker, by the camera icon.
> 
> The very first ARC microphone position is where the listener sits. Then, you can move 2 feet to the left and right of it for ARC positions 2 and 3. Positions 4 and 5 would not change as they are in between ARC positions 1 & 2 and 1 & 3, but placed in front of you.
> 
> Hope this makes sense...
> 
> - David


Thanks a mill, will try that


----------



## yacht422

*update to 44854*



yacht422 said:


> this is an update re: cables.. hooked up the OPPO(203) anthem -60 , bought a 4K movie (Arrival 4K, but not HDR ) and ran it thru my 15 Y/O cable (do not recall where I bought the thick thing) all with no problems at all.
> perhaps with HDR this will not be the case - - - waiting for the new JVC projector to arrive for the 'final smoke test'. (HDR) Update after the new projector..
> Walt


hooked up new JVC to AMV-60 to OPPO 203 all running thru a (actually only 10 Y/O cable) cable. Tested with 4-K, then 4K HDR, and all ran perfectly! I remember that cable issues included drop-outs, Sparklies, or no pic at all. So, I assume that since I have none of those issues, a newest hi-speed, guaranteed super duper cable will not improve on the fantastic pic on my 123" Stewart 1.3 gain screen.
Only wish I could find the receipt for the cable so as to share. Sorry.
My only complaint is it takes the Anthem forever to recognize changing sources.( Sat to Blu Ray for instance)
Walt


----------



## duckymomo

Nyutu said:


> Thanks so much for the suggestion and also the reasoning behind it and explanation.
> 
> One question though (Maybe my understanding is wrong, so apologies in advance), if I measure it like you suggest the whole sofa will be corrected and it would look something like the following picture,
> 
> 
> But it is my understanding that I will not hear the same when seated at position 2 or 3 no matter how good ACR is, to get started due to distance to speakers, right?
> 
> So considering that, wouldn't I be hearing a worse performance from the speakers when I seat in my "Real Center" MLP (which is between positions 2 and 1 and just behind position 4) when compared to the "measured MLP" which is in the middle of the sofa and where ACR averaged the 5 measurements?
> 
> Or Should I measure it like the picture above, but then input the speaker distances to the "real center" MLP to ensure I get the full benefit of it?


It looks like your seat is up against the back wall, so you might want to try this pattern from the Persona ARC manual. It's the newest Paradigm/Anthem product with ARC.


----------



## dmusoke

^^^ interesting... Is this a new configuration from Anthem?


----------



## jo5507

dmusoke said:


> ^^^ interesting... Is this a new configuration from Anthem?


Check out the video on their new Persona flagship speaker....impressive. 

http://persona.paradigm.com/persona/index.php


----------



## dmusoke

Yeah, nice and impressive video but I still missed that ARC configuration you mentioned above in the video. That's ok though. No biggie!


----------



## muad'dib

I'm sure it's been asked.. 
I want to ARC for 1 main listening position.. 
What is the best ARC mic layout to use for just this one seat... 

I heard. Maybe to use positions near where my ears will be, the width of my head... 

Just want your thoughts... 
Thanks 

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bob Pariseau

muad'dib said:


> I'm sure it's been asked..
> I want to ARC for 1 main listening position..
> What is the best ARC mic layout to use for just this one seat...
> 
> I heard. Maybe to use positions near where my ears will be, the width of my head...
> 
> Just want your thoughts...
> Thanks
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


Definitely not. ARC has to be able to distinguish between the inherent output of the speakers and what the room is doing to that output, otherwise it can't do its job. And THAT means you have to have mic positions which are spaced out -- not clustered near one head position.

Put mic position #1 near your head position, as that's the one that is used for setting speaker levels.
--Bob


----------



## muad'dib

Bob Pariseau said:


> Definitely not. ARC has to be able to distinguish between the inherent output of the speakers and what the room is doing to that output, otherwise it can't do its job. And THAT means you have to have mic positions which are spaced out -- not clustered near one head position.
> 
> Put mic position #1 near your head position, as that's the one that is used for setting speaker levels.
> --Bob


Interesting... 

And thanks... 

See my photo.. 

With this layout, would it be best to cluster the mic readings on the love seat... The chairs are for over flow of guests.. ☺

So love seat is the prime area... 
Would you mabe take 5 readings over the width of love seat.. 










Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Put mic #1 at center seating. Pick the other 4 positions such that:

1) The mic positions span the listening area you want to correct -- both side to side and front to back,

2) Each subsequent mic position in sequence alternates from one side to the other of #1 ,

3) The mic positions are not all at the same distance from the screen -- for example have some set up near the back of the headrests and some at the front of the seats

4) No two mic positions -- whether or not sequential -- should be set up closer than 24 inches apart. I use 30 inches as my minimum.

5) The mic tip is not set closer than 18 inches from a blocking or reflecting surface like a wall or high seat back. If necessary raise the mic tip a bit to clear a seat back, or shift the mic position closer to the screen to get distance from a wall.

6) The mic tip should point straight up towards the ceiling. The mic tip should be set at seated ear height for all positions (adjusted as necessary for rule (5)).

The mic hears audio from the entire hemisphere -- 360 degrees around -- above the tip. So that's the area you want to keep clear of nearby things that block or reflect the sound.

Here's a pattern that should work for you:

(back wall)

.....2....1.....3....
4....................5

(screen)

--Bob


----------



## muad'dib

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Put mic #1 at center seating. Pick the other 4 positions such that:
> 
> 1) The mic positions span the listening area you want to correct -- both side to side and front to back,
> 
> 2) Each subsequent mic position in sequence alternates from one side to the other of #1 ,
> 
> 3) The mic positions are not all at the same distance from the screen -- for example have some set up near the back of the headrests and some at the front of the seats
> 
> 4) No two mic positions -- whether or not sequential -- should be set up closer than 24 inches apart. I use 30 inches as my minimum.
> 
> 5) The mic tip is not set closer than 18 inches from a blocking or reflecting surface like a wall or high seat back. If necessary raise the mic tip a bit to clear a seat back, or shift the mic position closer to the screen to get distance from a wall.
> 
> 6) The mic tip should point straight up towards the ceiling. The mic tip should be set at seated ear height for all positions (adjusted as necessary for rule (5)).
> 
> The mic hears audio from the entire hemisphere -- 360 degrees around -- above the tip. So that's the area you want to keep clear of nearby things that block or reflect the sound.
> 
> Here's a pattern that should work for you:
> 
> (back wall)
> 
> .....2....1.....3....
> 4....................5
> 
> (screen)
> 
> --Bob


Cool and thanks for great procedure.. 

Curious as to why they suggest in front or behind listening position... 
I ask as you dont actually sit there and those spots might have big bass peaks or dips... 

Thanks 

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## yacht422

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Put mic [URL=http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1]#1 [/URL] at center seating. Pick the other 4 positions such that:
> 
> 1) The mic positions span the listening area you want to correct -- both side to side and front to back,
> 
> 2) Each subsequent mic position in sequence alternates from one side to the other of [URL=http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1]#1 [/URL] ,
> 
> 3) The mic positions are not all at the same distance from the screen -- for example have some set up near the back of the headrests and some at the front of the seats
> 
> 4) No two mic positions -- whether or not sequential -- should be set up closer than 24 inches apart. I use 30 inches as my minimum.
> 
> 5) The mic tip is not set closer than 18 inches from a blocking or reflecting surface like a wall or high seat back. If necessary raise the mic tip a bit to clear a seat back, or shift the mic position closer to the screen to get distance from a wall.
> 
> 6) The mic tip should point straight up towards the ceiling. The mic tip should be set at seated ear height for all positions (adjusted as necessary for rule (5)).
> 
> The mic hears audio from the entire hemisphere -- 360 degrees around -- above the tip. So that's the area you want to keep clear of nearby things that block or reflect the sound.
> 
> Here's a pattern that should work for you:
> 
> (back wall)
> 
> .....2....1.....3....
> 4....................5
> 
> (screen)
> 
> --Bob


the ARC #1 from the D2 days required cancelling out left speaker and then create a 75DB tone for the reference testing signals.
I do not see that requirement for ARC #2.(actually , have not found any advise other than mic positions from BOB)
Do we no longer need to zero out prior to testing?
( also sent an inquiry to Anthem re: Long delay times for feed changes (TV Box feed changing to OPPO -60 feed) and issues with ARC not being recognizes by -60 etc etc)
Walt


----------



## muad'dib

Did more testing with ARC-2 and found a cool bug concerning max correction eq.. 

I found a way to correct to any Max EQ you choose... 

This is how I did it... 

Load ARC program. 
Load your saved reading file.. 
Goto target icon. 
Choose profile #1 

Enter the Max frequency you want upto 20k.
Now the trick... 
After you enter the max eq, press tab profile #2 

Then.
Goto tab profile #1 again.. 
You will see your max eq has changed to default 5k, BUT it really is at your max freq. You set.. 

Now select OK. 

And run the calculate tab. 
When it's done, you will see that it indeed did correct to your max freq... 

If you do above but don't goto profile #2 then back to profile #1 , your max correction won't stick.. It will just use the standard 5k..


See screen shots. 
And I do hear a difference 
. 
The screen shots are the default 5k, 12k, and 20k..(not in that order). 




If anyone with REW and a mic can test that would be great... 
To my ears, I do hear a difference just not sure of its what the graphs say... 

But either way interesting bug with graphs changing... 











Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## dmusoke

^^^ now that you've spilled the beans, guess what Anthem will do for its next FW update?


----------



## Apgood

dmusoke said:


> ^^^ now that you've spilled the beans, guess what Anthem will do for its next FW update?


Actually in the AVM60 thread [email protected] said even easier thing to do is just hit enter after entering the max EQ limit. 

Evidently it will EQ Upton 24k but he added the disclaimer that the microphone is only confirmed accurate upto 5k.


----------



## dmusoke

Would you what ARC does for frequencies under 20Hz? No correction or some correction?


----------



## SimonNo10

Hi guys. I'm considering moving on my D2v (3D) and getting the AVM60. Will it be an upgrade in audio and is ARC-2 better than the first version?


----------



## Catchup57

*D2V3D Setup*

I apologize if I'm butting in here but I was wondering if someone could answer a few really tech heavy questions about a D2V3D.


I get a bad monitor screen flicker when scrolling thru the setup menus and sometimes the monitor screen goes black. Also sometimes when I exit setup the blue background screen stays on my monitor, (TV). It will usually go away if I turn the D2 off then back on.
-Would this be video, motherboard or touchpad?
-Was the older D2 power supply with the Toroidal transformers better sounding than the newer version power supply?
-Is the AVM50V video board the same as the D2V video board? 
Thanks


----------



## Catchup57

Catchup57 said:


> I apologize if I'm butting in here but I was wondering if someone could answer a few really tech heavy questions about a D2V3D.
> 
> 
> I get a bad monitor screen flicker when scrolling thru the setup menus and sometimes the monitor screen goes black. Also sometimes when I exit setup the blue background screen stays on my monitor, (TV). It will usually go away if I turn the D2 off then back on.
> -Would this be video, motherboard or touchpad?
> -Was the older D2 power supply with the Toroidal transformers better sounding than the newer version power supply?
> -Is the AVM50V video board the same as the D2V video board?
> Thanks


Yes you are correct. They are the same part number so that's good for a spare part thanks. I also think your right about the power board. I'm going to swap them. The setup video has not been doing that again. I'm letting it get warmed up pretty good and I'll check it again. Thanks tons.


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## dmusoke

So, what does the D2v have that the AVM60 doesn't have to justify its much higher price than the D2v?


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## SimonNo10

Well after getting the 3D upgrade when it became available, I've not had a single issue until now. The issue is I'm using HDMI output 1 to my JVC X-35 projector and now I'm constantly getting a pink screen sometimes red as well for all sources going through that HDMI. If I tap the cable it goes back to normal or tap the back of the unit itself it goes back to normal only to go bad within a min or so. I have removed the cable and reinserted it to no avail. I haven't touched the back of the unit for ages and this issue has just started 2 days ago. I'm thinking that maybe after many years with the bass that the board may have become loose or something? I don't believe its the cable as its a high quality one and never touched it after installing. I know things can fail over time but I still think it's the unit.

Anyone else had a similar problem like this?


----------



## Orbitron

SimonNo10 said:


> Well after getting the 3D upgrade when it became available, I've not had a single issue until now. The issue is I'm using HDMI output 1 to my JVC X-35 projector and now I'm constantly getting a pink screen sometimes red as well for all sources going through that HDMI. If I tap the cable it goes back to normal or tap the back of the unit itself it goes back to normal only to go bad within a min or so. I have removed the cable and reinserted it to no avail. I haven't touched the back of the unit for ages and this issue has just started 2 days ago. I'm thinking that maybe after many years with the bass that the board may have become loose or something? I don't believe its the cable as its a high quality one and never touched it after installing. I know things can fail over time but I still think it's the unit.
> 
> Anyone else had a similar problem like this?


Call Anthem, sounds like you need to have the HDMI board replaced. I have the D2v 3d and also had a fouled up image on my projector 2 years ago. Anthem replaced the board, all good since then.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

SimonNo10 said:


> Well after getting the 3D upgrade when it became available, I've not had a single issue until now. The issue is I'm using HDMI output 1 to my JVC X-35 projector and now I'm constantly getting a pink screen sometimes red as well for all sources going through that HDMI. If I tap the cable it goes back to normal or tap the back of the unit itself it goes back to normal only to go bad within a min or so. I have removed the cable and reinserted it to no avail. I haven't touched the back of the unit for ages and this issue has just started 2 days ago. I'm thinking that maybe after many years with the bass that the board may have become loose or something? I don't believe its the cable as its a high quality one and never touched it after installing. I know things can fail over time but I still think it's the unit.
> 
> Anyone else had a similar problem like this?


The upper HDMI output is on a daughter board and may need to be reseated in its socket. But it is far more likely that your cable has gone bad. Before you do anything else, try a new cable.
--Bob


----------



## SimonNo10

Thanks for the replies. It's not the cable as I've placed it into the 2nd HDMI output and it's been perfect for 2 days. I'm in Australia and have contacted the company I purchased it from (they no longer sell Anthem products) and referred me to Audio Active:

https://audioactive.com.au/anthem/

I will contact them next week. The other issue which has come back is the main display doesn't illuminate all the characters with the same brightness. I've had this issue before and the display was replaced under warranty by Audio Active (they did the 3D upgrade for me). It's hard to take a pic of it as it doesn't come out well enough to show the issue.


----------



## BuckeyeAmps

Quick question:

I have three identical speakers for LCR (Hsu CC8's). ARC says the ideal crossover for the center is 80Hz but the LR is 120Hz.

Is it best to leave the center at 80Hz or take its crossover to 120Hz to match the Left and Right? 

Use is strictly HT (no music). 

Thanks! 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## Bob Pariseau

^ Quick answer. Leave it at 80 Hz.
--Bob


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## BuckeyeAmps

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Quick answer. Leave it at 80 Hz.
> --Bob


Thanks Bob! 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## BuckeyeAmps

Nvm


----------



## muad'dib

Have an interesting situation I need advice on.. 

I have 2 sub15's and an anthem avm60.. 

For now, I don't want to run ARC on anthem as I find without ARC in my room seems better.. 

So question.. 

Would I do a PBK reading from each sub separate, then, set levels and average distance for both subs together.?. 
I know it's best to eq subs together, but since I want bass eq, with no ARC.. Or if down the road had to get a different preamp with no eq, what is recommended.. 


If yes to eq each sub seperate, then question on mic locations.. 

One sub is doing bass for center seat to extreme right seats... It does not really add do any good bass from center to left most seats... 
So second sub, does the bass from center seat to extreme left seats. 

Together both subs give even bass across the entire seating area... 

What locations for each sub would be best for readings.. 
Thanks 

Thanks 

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


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## dmusoke

muad'dib said:


> Have an interesting situation I need advice on..
> 
> I have 2 sub15's and an anthem avm60..
> 
> For now, I don't want to run ARC on anthem as I find without ARC in my room seems better..
> 
> So question..
> 
> Would I do a PBK reading from each sub separate, then, set levels and average distance for both subs together.?.
> I know it's best to eq subs together, but since I want bass eq, with no ARC.. Or if down the road had to get a different preamp with no eq, what is recommended..
> 
> 
> If yes to eq each sub seperate, then question on mic locations..
> 
> One sub is doing bass for center seat to extreme right seats... It does not really add do any good bass from center to left most seats...
> So second sub, does the bass from center seat to extreme left seats.
> 
> Together both subs give even bass across the entire seating area...
> 
> What locations for each sub would be best for readings..
> Thanks
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


I'm a firm believer in placing at least one sub close to you (or behind you) and the other up front. Not that you want to hear most from the closest sub but the bass sounds best to me, as I've had 2 SVS SB16 subs up front and 1 sub front and 2nd sub five feet to the left of me.

The trick to getting the best from dual subs is phase matching the subs. In my case, I left the phase of the first sub to its default 0 degrees. I then adjusted the phase of the 2nd sub, the one closest to me, until the combined frequency response was as even and maximal as possible. 

Of course, each sub had been gain calibrated to produce 75dB at my MLP (Others use 72-73dB but I like mine a little hot). ARC's Live Measure tool will help you determine the best and optimal phase angle of the 2nd sub as you see how the shape of the combined frequency response varies with phase angle. Once this angle has been determined, you lock it in the sub and make sure you never change it, unless you relocate that sub.

Probably, the reason why you felt the subwoofer sound was better w/o ARC than with ARC was that the subs were not been optimized to play as 1 virtual sub. That's the key...to have them appear acoustically as one wide sub. Also, I use a D2v prepro and the Subwoofer Target Settings has an option setting to the set the HPF order to 'Flat' and not Auto or something else. "Flat" ensures ARC follows the frequency response of your virtual sub and not try to contour it like the "Auto" setting does...

The last thing to do is to time-align this 1 virtual sub to your mains by determining the optimal subwoofer distance to enter into your AVM60 within the xover region. The Anthem manual gives a few ways of doing it. I use a more advanced method which might or might not appeal to you (see my signature for details).

These two things are responsible for the best tactile, 3-dimensional bass I've ever had in my living room. Best of luck!

- David


----------



## muad'dib

dmusoke said:


> I'm a firm believer in placing at least one sub close to you (or behind you) and the other up front. Not that you want to hear most from the closest sub but the bass sounds best to me, as I've had 2 SVS SB16 subs up front and 1 sub front and 2nd sub five feet to the left of me.
> 
> The trick to getting the best from dual subs is phase matching the subs. In my case, I left the phase of the first sub to its default 0 degrees. I then adjusted the phase of the 2nd sub, the one closest to me, until the combined frequency response was as even and maximal as possible.
> 
> Of course, each sub had been gain calibrated to produce 75dB at my MLP (Others use 72-73dB but I like mine a little hot). ARC's Live Measure tool will help you determine the best and optimal phase angle of the 2nd sub as you see how the shape of the combined frequency response varies with phase angle. Once this angle has been determined, you lock it in the sub and make sure you never change it, unless you relocate that sub.
> 
> Probably, the reason why you felt the subwoofer sound was better w/o ARC than with ARC was that the subs were not been optimized to play as 1 virtual sub. That's the key...to have them appear acoustically as one wide sub. Also, I use a D2v prepro and the Subwoofer Target Settings has an option setting to the set the HPF order to 'Flat' and not Auto or something else. "Flat" ensures ARC follows the frequency response of your virtual sub and not try to contour it like the "Auto" setting does...
> 
> The last thing to do is to time-align this 1 virtual sub to your mains by determining the optimal subwoofer distance to enter into your AVM60 within the xover region. The Anthem manual gives a few ways of doing it. I use a more advanced method which might or might not appeal to you (see my signature for details).
> 
> These two things are responsible for the best tactile, 3-dimensional bass I've ever had in my living room. Best of luck!
> 
> - David


Thanks for awesome reply... 

Actually, I loved what ARC did for subs, but not so much for rest of speakers. 
Hence , why I don't want to use ARC but, still want the results of ARC for my subs.. 
Since my subs have PBK built in, I was looking for an alternative to using ARC In anthem..keeping rest of my speakers unaltered 

I ages with your sub setup, thst is how I did find in the end thr locations.. 
One ended up in front and other in rear.
The one in rear does center seat to extreme left seats... 
And front seems to work best for center seat to extreme right seats... 

They each do half thr seating area... Just way my unfinished room is... 

Thanks 

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## dmusoke

muad'dib said:


> Thanks for awesome reply...
> 
> Actually, I loved what ARC did for subs, but not so much for rest of speakers.
> Hence , why I don't want to use ARC but, still want the results of ARC for my subs..
> Since my subs have PBK built in, I was looking for an alternative to using ARC In anthem..keeping rest of my speakers unaltered
> 
> I ages with your sub setup, thst is how I did find in the end thr locations..
> One ended up in front and other in rear.
> The one in rear does center seat to extreme left seats...
> And front seems to work best for center seat to extreme right seats...
> 
> They each do half thr seating area... Just way my unfinished room is...
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


1. You can limit ARC's operation to 200Hz or whatever the lower limit is for the AVM60. The so-called 'Schroeder frequency' is the range of frequencies where the room resonance has the most effect on sound waves. It's about 200Hz meaning at frequencies from up to 200Hz, the bass response is going to be determined by your room dimensions. You can tell ARC to work its magic up to 200Hz. It's ok to extend it to 300Hz, depending on what your ARC plots look like. In that way, it leaves all other frequencies untouched. 

Without in play, you are missing out on the other bass management stuff that it does, such as speaker trims, optimized xover settings, and speaker phase distortion corrections which help integrate the sound into a better whole sound field.

2. With the rear sub, you need to adjust its phase until its perfectly blended with the front sub to eliminate room peaks and nulls. You are guaranteed that by placing it in the rear, the front and rear subs are out-of-phase with the front sub. This produces weak and inconsistent bass. You do not want that to happen.

Follow the procedure I mentioned above to phase match the subs after they've each been gain matched to 75dB at the MLP using your trust analog or digital sound pressure meter. I use a radioshack one, but others exist as well.

Good luck!


----------



## dmusoke

Any 4K upgrades to the D2v(3D) video board?


----------



## BrianJB7

*ARC Advanced Target Customization*

Good day to all!

Wondering how to customize dual subs - once the HPF is set to "Flat" instead of Auto.

The real question is what to set the "Min Subwoofer EQ Freq" (i.e., 20; 30; 40; etc.)?

My subs are Paradigm Prestige 2000s and my mains are the original Paradigm Signature 8s placed in a large and wide open acoustically treated room.

Thanks.
-Mikey


----------



## dmusoke

BrianJB7 said:


> Good day to all!
> 
> Wondering how to customize dual subs - once the HPF is set to "Flat" instead of Auto.
> 
> The real question is what to set the "Min Subwoofer EQ Freq" (i.e., 20; 30; 40; etc.)?
> 
> My subs are Paradigm Prestige 2000s and my mains are the original Paradigm Signature 8s placed in a large and wide open acoustically treated room.
> 
> Thanks.
> -Mikey


Set to the lowest frequency of 20Hz as that is the frequency it'll equalize to flat. Beyond that, it'll just follow the natural bass response curve of your subwoofer's interaction with the room.


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## dmusoke

All hail the new HDMI 2.1 standard


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## SimonNo10

Well I received a message from the repairer regarding the fixes for my D2v (HDMI & Display). He said the HDMI board will be zero cost just a fee for the install. The display will be a costly fix $1,225.00 AUD plus install fee. I'm very surprised at this cost as it's a VFD display and the repairer was surprised as well that it can't be sent as just the VFD Module and not an entire board replacement.

In the time I've owned the unit I've already had the HDMI board and main display replaced under warranty and then the HDMI went faulty again around the time the 3D upgrade was released and I was able to get that upgrade for nothing due to the constant issues I had originally. The unit has been working flawlessly since the 3D upgrade but now the HDMI 1 output is not working and the front display doesn't illuminate all characters equally. 

I want to sell the unit as I'm downsizing my setup and go a receiver (selling my 5 channel TAS Krell amp) so not sure if I should spend the money and get it all repaired or just get the HDMI board done and sell as is with the display. It's only some characters that aren't as bright as some others depending what you select on the display. I personally don't use the front display it's always off unless I need to use ARC.


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## BrianJB7

dmusoke said:


> Set to the lowest frequency of 20Hz as that is the frequency it'll equalize to flat. Beyond that, it'll just follow the natural bass response curve of your subwoofer's interaction with the room.


Dmusoke,
Thanks for the tip to set the min sub EQ freq to 20 when selecting flat.

I selected 60 to match the mains' cutoff freq thinking "minimum" is where the freg would roll off from. 

Thanks again.
-Mikey


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## dmusoke

Now, if are one if the lucky ones who has a sub response that rises upwards in gain as frequency decreases, you might want to preserve that gain by having a higher minimum sub EQ frequency, or else ARC will 'flatten' that gain down to 20Hz, if 20Hz is chosen instead. But itsbest to post a pic of your ARCs sub response...makes it lots easier to offer advice once you get to see the 'problem'

- David


----------



## BrianJB7

dmusoke said:


> Now, if are one if the lucky ones who has a sub response that rises upwards in gain as frequency decreases, you might want to preserve that gain by having a higher minimum sub EQ frequency, or else ARC will 'flatten' that gain down to 20Hz, if 20Hz is chosen instead. But itsbest to post a pic of your ARCs sub response...makes it lots easier to offer advice once you get to see the 'problem'
> 
> - David


David,
Thanks for the help. Attached is a pic of ARC with sub set to flat with min freq at 20.
-Mikey


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## dmusoke

BrianJB7 said:


> David,
> Thanks for the help. Attached is a pic of ARC with sub set to flat with min freq at 20.
> -Mikey


Yup, leave it flat 20Hz... How does your system sound now than before?


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## BrianJB7

dmusoke said:


> Yup, leave it flat 20Hz... How does your system sound now than before?


David,

Hard to say, but it appears the midrange is more defined. The sound is clear & detailed with a deep and robust soundstage. The bass still needs a little work.

The next tweak is getting the phase absolutely correct for both subs.

Thank you for all of your advice.
-Mikey


----------



## dmusoke

BrianJB7 said:


> David,
> 
> Hard to say, but it appears the midrange is more defined. The sound is clear & detailed with a deep and robust soundstage. The bass still needs a little work.
> 
> The next tweak is getting the phase absolutely correct for both subs.
> 
> Thank you for all of your advice.
> -Mikey


The surprise for me was that once I optimized both subs in phase and distance, the midrange improved a lot. I don't know why this was so but I liked it. Based on your sub response, I see no major peaks or nulls, so they could be optimized already. But it's worth the effort to go through the process nonetheless, if not to get acquainted with it. 

Remember for phase opt. set one sub to zero degrees and adjust the phase of the other sub until you get a combined FR of the new 'virtual sub' that is as flat and wide and deep as possible.

For distance optimization, I'd play low-frequency noise that exercises the subs and front speakers. Adjust the distance setting in the Anthem until you measure the highest SPL coming out of both your subs and front mains. I'd use the left front for simplicity and assume it in perfect phase with the right front which is a reasonable assumption.

The second option is to reverse the polarity of the front main speakers, then adjust the distance setting until you get a minimum SPL from your speakers. Once you get that distance, then save it and remember to reverse the polarity of the front mains before settling down for a listen.

Instead of LF noise, I personally use test tones around the xover frequencies that ARC has suggested, normally 60 - 90Hz and find the optimized distance for each test tone and average them or pick the one that corresponds fo the xover frequency ARC has suggested.


----------



## BrianJB7

dmusoke said:


> The surprise for me was that once I optimized both subs in phase and distance, the midrange improved a lot. I don't know why this was so but I liked it. Based on your sub response, I see no major peaks or nulls, so they could be optimized already. But it's worth the effort to go through the process nonetheless, if not to get acquainted with it.
> 
> Remember for phase opt. set one sub to zero degrees and adjust the phase of the other sub until you get a combined FR of the new 'virtual sub' that is as flat and wide and deep as possible.
> 
> For distance optimization, I'd play low-frequency noise that exercises the subs and front speakers. Adjust the distance setting in the Anthem until you measure the highest SPL coming out of both your subs and front mains. I'd use the left front for simplicity and assume it in perfect phase with the right front which is a reasonable assumption.
> 
> The second option is to reverse the polarity of the front main speakers, then adjust the distance setting until you get a minimum SPL from your speakers. Once you get that distance, then save it and remember to reverse the polarity of the front mains before settling down for a listen.
> 
> Instead of LF noise, I personally use test tones around the xover frequencies that ARC has suggested, normally 60 - 90Hz and find the optimized distance for each test tone and average them or pick the one that corresponds fo the xover frequency ARC has suggested.


I'll give it a go. 

After about 10 years with the D2 & ARC, it still remains a fun and challenging pursuit to extract an optimal sounding solution for music & movies.


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## anthonymoody

dmusoke said:


> All hail the new HDMI 2.1 standard


D3?


----------



## dmusoke

anthonymoody said:


> D3?


A new HDMI board would be needed since HDMI 2.1 now supports 4k/120p, 8k/60p, Dynamic HDR. These new frame rates require new 48Gbps HDMI cables, which currently do not exist in mass. Anthem, I believe is set on the AVM60 as its preferred processor and won't be surprised if there'd be a board swap for the AVM60 to support 2.1 or even a new AVM 70 that natively supports the 2.1 standard . But as for a statement D3, they've always said no....but plans can change.


----------



## leeshanok

Hi,
I own a D2 that I purchased new with ARC disc and microphone. I recently purchased a used D2v3D (no ARC disc) and want to use the microphone from the D2 unit to run ARC with the D2v3D. I thought by changing the D2 serial number in the .cal and Anthem.file files to the D2v3D serial number would do the trick, but I get an error message that it failed due to the .cal file being an invalid security file, after it had recognized the microphone serial #. I sent an email to tech support, but they are closed on weekend. So, while waiting until Monday, if anyone can assist or know a simple fix to this issue, perhaps you've had similar situation, please let me know. Thanks.


----------



## doubleroll

leeshanok said:


> Hi,
> 
> I own a D2 that I purchased new with ARC disc and microphone. I recently purchased a used D2v3D (no ARC disc) and want to use the microphone from the D2 unit to run ARC with the D2v3D. I thought by changing the D2 serial number in the .cal and Anthem.file files to the D2v3D serial number would do the trick, but I get an error message that it failed due to the .cal file being an invalid security file, after it had recognized the microphone serial #. I sent an email to tech support, but they are closed on weekend. So, while waiting until Monday, if anyone can assist or know a simple fix to this issue, perhaps you've had similar situation, please let me know. Thanks.




Did you try downloading the Software and cal file from Anthem support site? Input your mic serial number and the cal file will be generated for your mic.

https://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software.php


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## leeshanok

doubleroll said:


> Did you try downloading the Software and cal file from Anthem support site? Input your mic serial number and the cal file will be generated for your mic.
> 
> https://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software.php
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I sure did and cal file downloaded from Anthem had my D2 serial #, so I changed to the D2V3D serial #, but did not work. It appears Anthem has a record of the D2/microphone serial numbers combination. I wonder if Anthem tech support has to manipulate the file so the imbedded data contains the D2V3D unit #.


----------



## tranle

leeshanok said:


> I sure did and cal file downloaded from Anthem had my D2 serial #, so I changed to the D2V3D serial #, but did not work. It appears Anthem has a record of the D2/microphone serial numbers combination. I wonder if Anthem tech support has to manipulate the file so the imbedded data contains the D2V3D unit #.


The old mic calibration file was named: {d2_serial}_{mic_serial}Anthem.cal
The newer mic calibration file are named: {mic_serial}Anthem.cal
You can try to make a copy of you mic cal file to the new format and put it in the calibration software installed directory under 'Program Files' and try it.


----------



## leeshanok

tranle said:


> The old mic calibration file was named: {d2_serial}_{mic_serial}Anthem.cal
> The newer mic calibration file are named: {mic_serial}Anthem.cal
> You can try to make a copy of you mic cal file to the new format and put it in the calibration software installed directory under 'Program Files' and try it.


Tried it but still same error.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

leeshanok said:


> Tried it but still same error.


Are you using the latest version of the ARC Windows app? I don't believe the app checks for ARC licensing anymore (since ARC is bundled now), which means I think you can use your original CAL file without having to change anything. I.e., it is rejecting the file because the altered file names you've tried don't match the encoding of the file.

To get the real answer on this you'll need to talk to Anthem Tech Support.
--Bob


----------



## leeshanok

Bob Pariseau said:


> Are you using the latest version of the ARC Windows app? I don't believe the app checks for ARC licensing anymore (since ARC is bundled now), which means I think you can use your original CAL file without having to change anything. I.e., it is rejecting the file because the altered file names you've tried don't match the encoding of the file.
> 
> To get the real answer on this you'll need to talk to Anthem Tech Support.
> --Bob


Tried it but error message said unable to find valid microphone.


----------



## tranle

leeshanok said:


> Tried it but error message said unable to find valid microphone.


I had a problem at one time where my Lenovo laptop usb port defaulted to usb3.0 and was not compatible with the microphone. Check if you have a way to force usb2.0 protocol for your usb port.


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## leeshanok

tranle said:


> I had a problem at one time where my Lenovo laptop usb port defaulted to usb3.0 and was not compatible with the microphone. Check if you have a way to force usb2.0 protocol for your usb port.


Yeah, after discussing with Anthem tech support, I figured out something was wrong with my USB. I used another laptop and everything works fine now.


----------



## SimonNo10

Received some good new regarding the VFD display replacement and the HDMI board. Anthem found a VFD module so I don't have to pay for the entire display section which was going to cost me approx $1,250.00AUD. The module is just $239AUD and no cost for the HDMI board so just labour which is $132AUD. Will get it done next week then selling it and downgrading to an Anthem receiver as I'm selling my Krell TAS 5 channel amp as well. I'm based in Australia so shipping would be crazy prices to send overseas as the Krell weighs about 40kg+.


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## greyflag

*BDP-103D and AVM-50*

To Bob and all:

I picked up a used 103D to see what the Darbee might do for cable, DVDs, and BluRay. I am running a single HDMI cable to the Anthem, and have disabled scaling for the source on the Anthems scaler menu. 

1. Will that also prevent the Anthem from determining the frame rate as well? The Oppo is set to Auto.

2. Would I be better of using the split AV setting and sending only audio to the Anthem as per the Oppo manual?

I'm running my cable box (no option for native resolution) at 1080i into the Oppo and get a handshaking noise when switching channels. Could split AV solve this?

Thanks, as always. 

Glenn


----------



## dmusoke

greyflag said:


> To Bob and all:
> 
> I picked up a used 103D to see what the Darbee might do for cable, DVDs, and BluRay. I am running a single HDMI cable to the Anthem, and have disabled scaling for the source on the Anthems scaler menu.
> 
> 1. Will that also prevent the Anthem from determining the frame rate as well? The Oppo is set to Auto.
> 
> 2. Would I be better of using the split AV setting and sending only audio to the Anthem as per the Oppo manual?
> 
> I'm running my cable box (no option for native resolution) at 1080i into the Oppo and get a handshaking noise when switching channels. Could split AV solve this?
> 
> Thanks, as always.
> 
> Glenn


Glenn ... I'll try to answer your questions for you.

1. No.... First of all, set the Oppo output to match the optimized settings for your TV. If your TV set is 1080p60 and prefers the YCrCb color space, then set these settings explicitly in the Oppo to minimize handshake errors. And also, do the same for the Anthem video settings, so that it just passes video thru from the Oppo to your TV without changing its color or resolution modes.

2. Not really. It depends....The Split AV setup was devised as a work around for video modes not supported by the Anthem unit you may have. You didn't say which Anthem unit you had, but if you have the newer MRX systems, then only use 1 video cable from the 103D --->MRX ---> TV. 

If you have the 3D versions of the AVM50 and D2v and your TV also supports 3D, then also use the connection described earlier.

If you have the non-3D AVM or D2v processors and have a 3D TV, THEN use the SPLIT AV option where the video goes directly from the 103D to your TV and another cable from the 103D to your Anthem.


I have a similar cable box setup like yours where I use the Oppo to clean up my cable box video. Handshaking will be reduced if you have video settings as described in #1 above. The Oppo always receives a 1080i signal, fed into the Anthem to output a 1080p60 (if in the US or 1080p50 elsewhere) output signal to the TV, with similar color space settings in the Oppo, Anthem, and TV.

I believe the handshaking noise you are getting now is due to the AUTO setting in the Oppo where it has to constantly renegotiate video settings with the TV and that process is somewhat slow. AFter all, it takes place using a slow 100kHz 2-wire control bus, part of the HDMI standard.

Hope that helps...

- David


----------



## greyflag

dmusoke said:


> Glenn ... I'll try to answer your questions for you.
> 
> 1. No.... First of all, set the Oppo output to match the optimized settings for your TV. If your TV set is 1080p60 and prefers the YCrCb color space, then set these settings explicitly in the Oppo to minimize handshake errors. And also, do the same for the Anthem video settings, so that it just passes video thru from the Oppo to your TV without changing its color or resolution modes.
> 
> 2. Not really. It depends....The Split AV setup was devised as a work around for video modes not supported by the Anthem unit you may have. You didn't say which Anthem unit you had, but if you have the newer MRX systems, then only use 1 video cable from the 103D --->MRX ---> TV.
> 
> If you have the 3D versions of the AVM50 and D2v and your TV also supports 3D, then also use the connection described earlier.
> 
> If you have the non-3D AVM or D2v processors and have a 3D TV, THEN use the SPLIT AV option where the video goes directly from the 103D to your TV and another cable from the 103D to your Anthem.
> 
> 
> I have a similar cable box setup like yours where I use the Oppo to clean up my cable box video. Handshaking will be reduced if you have video settings as described in #1 above. The Oppo always receives a 1080i signal, fed into the Anthem to output a 1080p60 (if in the US or 1080p50 elsewhere) output signal to the TV, with similar color space settings in the Oppo, Anthem, and TV.
> 
> I believe the handshaking noise you are getting now is due to the AUTO setting in the Oppo where it has to constantly renegotiate video settings with the TV and that process is somewhat slow. AFter all, it takes place using a slow 100kHz 2-wire control bus, part of the HDMI standard.
> 
> Hope that helps...
> 
> - David


Thanks David,

It's an original AVM50 (albeit with ARC). TV is a KRP600m which will be replaced this year, probably with a LG OLED. I'll set up the Oppo as described and go back to 1080p/60 for Video Config. 1, and 1080p/24 for Anthem Video Config 2, and set the Oppo up for that as well for film based material. 

I may replace the processor to an AVM60 anyway. I have an Oppo UDP 203 as well for the future, but I wanted to fool with the Darbee. I've startzed with Hi-Def 35 on the Darbee to start for cable. What has worked for you?

Glenn


----------



## dmusoke

greyflag said:


> Thanks David,
> 
> It's an original AVM50 (albeit with ARC). TV is a KRP600m which will be replaced this year, probably with a LG OLED. I'll set up the Oppo as described and go back to 1080p/60 for Video Config. 1, and 1080p/24 for Anthem Video Config 2, and set the Oppo up for that as well for film based material.
> 
> I may replace the processor to an AVM60 anyway. I have an Oppo UDP 205 as well for the future, but I wanted to fool with the Darbee. I've started with Hi-Def 35 on the Darbee to start for cable. What has worked for you?
> 
> Glenn


In my case, I have 1080p60 all the way for TV and DVD/BD watching. I have a 60" Pioneer Elite Kuro Plasma as well, which triples the frame rate from 24Hz to 72Hz much like yours. I never saw much difference between 60Hz and 72Hz frame rates, so I decided to leave it at 60Hz all the way.

Since you plan to use 1080p24 for BD watching, remember to turn 1080p24 to ON (or is is Auto?) in the Oppo. That way, any BR authored at 24Hz will be output at 24Hz, else it'll play at 1080p60. Just remember, for video config 2, to set the output frame rate to 24Hz, with appropriate color space. In my case its RGB (dithered) all the way from the Oppo to my D2v to my Plasma. I believe your KRP600M was optimized for RGB color-space as well, but please verify with your manual.


----------



## greyflag

dmusoke said:


> In my case, I have 1080p60 all the way for TV and DVD/BD watching. I have a 60" Pioneer Elite Kuro Plasma as well, which triples the frame rate from 24Hz to 72Hz much like yours. I never saw much difference between 60Hz and 72Hz frame rates, so I decided to leave it at 60Hz all the way.
> 
> Since you plan to use 1080p24 for BD watching, remember to turn 1080p24 to ON (or is is Auto?) in the Oppo. That way, any BR authored at 24Hz will be output at 24Hz, else it'll play at 1080p60. Just remember, for video config 2, to set the output frame rate to 24Hz, with appropriate color space. In my case its RGB (dithered) all the way from the Oppo to my D2v to my Plasma. I believe your KRP600M was optimized for RGB color-space as well, but please verify with your manual.


I tried the above. More annoying than the popping noise when changing channels is the noise that happens when the cable company inserts its own commercials. For example, I could be watching a channel with 5.1 Dolby Digital audio. Comcast may override the network commercial with a local one in stereo. Switching between the two produces approximately one second of audio nastiness. I tried setting the Oppo to output PCM, which didn't help. This is the same noise from the Anthem that one gets when switching sources i.e. Cable to DVD.


----------



## dmusoke

greyflag said:


> I tried the above. More annoying than the popping noise when changing channels is the noise that happens when the cable company inserts its own commercials. For example, I could be watching a channel with 5.1 Dolby Digital audio. Comcast may override the network commercial with a local one in stereo. Switching between the two produces approximately one second of audio nastiness. I tried setting the Oppo to output PCM, which didn't help. This is the same noise from the Anthem that one gets when switching sources i.e. Cable to DVD.


Yeah, HDMI handshakes for change in video or audio format are painful. Try the "muting" for your source in the Anthem. From my D2v manual:

*Muting* (MAIN only)
This eliminates popping sounds that may occur with some digital source components during a bitstream change. If popping is heard when changing chapter on a DVD or channel on a digital satellite receiver or cable box, *use Max setting*. However, if the beginning of a track is cut off when playing a CD, *use Min setting*.

So go to Source Setup --> DVD1 (for example) ---> (set) Muting: Max ... to eliminate these popping sounds for the source input your device (cable box, cd / dvd/ bluray player) is connected to.

Hope this helps...

- David


----------



## greyflag

dmusoke said:


> Yeah, HDMI handshakes for change in video or audio format are painful. Try the "muting" for your source in the Anthem. From my D2v manual:
> 
> *Muting* (MAIN only)
> This eliminates popping sounds that may occur with some digital source components during a bitstream change. If popping is heard when changing chapter on a DVD or channel on a digital satellite receiver or cable box, *use Max setting*. However, if the beginning of a track is cut off when playing a CD, *use Min setting*.
> 
> So go to Source Setup --> DVD1 (for example) ---> (set) Muting: Max ... to eliminate these popping sounds for the source input your device (cable box, cd / dvd/ bluray player) is connected to.
> 
> Hope this helps...
> 
> - David


Unfortunately, that didn't help.

Glenn


----------



## Christian Busch

*Anthem d2V ARC and Velodyne DD+ EQ setup*

Hi all,

quick question:
when setting up an Anthem d2v and a Veldoyne DD15+ Auto EQ in what order would I run the setups on each ? 
Should I run 
1. the veloyne auto EQ setup and then Anthem arc 
2. leave velodyne in factory default settings and only run ARC 
3. run ARC and then velodyne Auto EQ?

thank you in advance...

Christian


----------



## cvinfig

Christian Busch said:


> Hi all,
> 
> quick question:
> when setting up an Anthem d2v and a Veldoyne DD15+ Auto EQ in what order would I run the setups on each ?
> Should I run
> 1. the veloyne auto EQ setup and then Anthem arc
> 2. leave velodyne in factory default settings and only run ARC
> 3. run ARC and then velodyne Auto EQ?
> 
> thank you in advance...
> 
> Christian



1. The Velodyne auto EQ setup and then ARC


----------



## dmusoke

Christian Busch said:


> Hi all,
> 
> quick question:
> when setting up an Anthem d2v and a Veldoyne DD15+ Auto EQ in what order would I run the setups on each ?
> Should I run
> 1. the veloyne auto EQ setup and then Anthem arc
> 2. leave velodyne in factory default settings and only run ARC
> 3. run ARC and then velodyne Auto EQ?
> 
> thank you in advance...
> 
> Christian


Unless, you are trying to sure a nasty null somewhere in your frequency response, which would required extra gain EQ from the sub, I would leave the DD15+ in its default state and have ARC do all the work (Option #2). Option 1 is overkill if your room is well behaved (acoustically)...though if I want to raise the low end


----------



## nickwin

I recently purchased a used d2 and thought I would say hello here since I will probably be posting a bit over the next few weeks as I try to get it dialed in. 

Ive been looking for the "right" d1 for a long time now for a legacy 5.1 setup at my cabin , mostly SD other than cable box at this point. Im 60-40 music-HT. I saw a deal on a D2 I couldn't pass up and went for it ($750, IF it pans out I think it will be a steal). 

Im hoping it will be a little more future proof than a D1. When the bulb on my SD projector dies I will probably go to a HD (HDMI) projector and maybe add a BD player. Hoping the d2 will handle all that. My d2 should arrive today . Very excited to hear how this unit handles 2.1.

I also purchased the "tripp lite Keyspan" serial to USB and a strait through serial cable for ARC and FW update if needed. I assume I should update to the most recent FW if its not already loaded?

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this giant 5000 page wealth of information over the years! Im sure it will be useful.


----------



## nickwin

Well, the D2 looks pretty good but not perfect. It seems that one of the HDMI inputs is damage but other than that it looks excellent. Im hooking it up today.

The remote is sticky which I understand is common with these. What best solution for this? Is there anything you can do to make it less sticky? Is there an alternate remote that works with the d2? Funny, I have a Rotel remote from the same period and it did the same thing, a bad batch of plastic out of China maybe?

thanks


----------



## nickwin

Well, I haven't set up my subs yet or run ARC but the D2 sounds fantastic, especially for 2 channel. Im having a hard time getting the video dialed in though and Im a little worried that the VP might be malfunctioning. 

Right off the bat I made the same mistake I always make which is I forgot to reset to factory default before inputing my settings. Im really hoping the issues I am experiencing are simply a setting a missed.

My set up:
I have 2 displays:
Optoma H31 projector (480P) connected to component output 1
Early 2000s Sony 16:9 1080i CRT tv connect to HDMI out

I set up duplicates of all my video source inputs:
Video output config 1: Component priority, 480p, SD color space, YPbPr 4444
Config 2: HDMI priority, 1080i, HD colorspace, YCpBr

On both displays I am getting less then stellar video quality. The biggest thing is badly crushed whites in bright scenes (see picture). The green/purple stuff in the CRT pic was a camera artifact, I couldn't see that in person. Both displays appear to need minor brightness, contrast and color/tint adjustments after putting the d2 in the video chain, but much bigger changes than Ive seen when swapping out VPs in the past. The picture adjustment settings in the D2 (button 7) appear to all be at default. Any thoughts on what setting in the D2 could cause this? 

The second problem is I am seeing some image distortion/ noise on both displays. On the projector (component) I was watching True Grit DVD that was included with the bluray, DVD player was outputting 480i, and I was seeing some odd gray horizontal banding across the screen in dark scenes that would kind of move up and down. This was visible in the letter box bars as well, but again only in darker scenes.

On the CRT (HDMI) I was seeing some static (as in not moving) narrow vertical lines that where either green or purple (see pics, in the picture they look gray but it gives you an idea what it looked like). In both cases the source was a Denon DVD2910 via component.

All this considered, I can't help but wonder if the video board is failing. Do these sound like a typical video board failure symptoms? The amount of video setting on this thing is amazing so Im really hoping its something on my end but I really need to determine wether the unit needs to be retuned or not. Before the d2 I was using a pio 1121k AVR and the picture I was getting from that was better across the board which leads me to believe something is wrong.

FW is 1.33

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

UPDATE: I watched some HD cable through the projector the other day and the picture seemed ok so its looking like the problem might be specific to the DVD player. Will test further...

Nick


----------



## brewster201

Hello It's been a while since I've been on this forum. I have a D2 and purchased a new to me Anthem AVM 50v 3D 

Can I transfer my saved settings from the D2 to the new Anthem as it's a pain to go through all the new setup


Thanks
Bruce


----------



## chileboy

nickwin said:


> The remote is sticky which I understand is common with these. What best solution for this? Is there anything you can do to make it less sticky? Is there an alternate remote that works with the d2? Funny, I have a Rotel remote from the same period and it did the same thing, a bad batch of plastic out of China maybe?


I've had a couple of those as well, tried a bunch of different solutions but for me the one that worked was using Goo Gone. Wipe it down repeatedly with a cloth soaked in it (be careful as possible not to saturate under the buttons, of course).

I did this a few times over the period of a day or two, then I found for some reason it still felt a *little* sticky, but that residual stickiness dissipated over the next few days, maybe as the plastic re-cured (or something).

I've done this with two remotes with equal success. Good luck with that and your D2!

- Mark


----------



## nickwin

chileboy said:


> I've had a couple of those as well, tried a bunch of different solutions but for me the one that worked was using Goo Gone. Wipe it down repeatedly with a cloth soaked in it (be careful as possible not to saturate under the buttons, of course).
> 
> I did this a few times over the period of a day or two, then I found for some reason it still felt a *little* sticky, but that residual stickiness dissipated over the next few days, maybe as the plastic re-cured (or something).
> 
> I've done this with two remotes with equal success. Good luck with that and your D2!
> 
> - Mark


Thanks for sharing! Ill give this a shot.


----------



## doubleroll

My Anthem remote is sticky as well. I just use an old universal remote Aeros MX-850. Works perfectly. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## nickwin

*D2 remote*

I noticed someone that was selling a d2 on eBay said they "upgraded" to a newer d2v(3d?) remote. Are these fully compatible with the d2? Does Anthem sell them?


----------



## nickwin

If anyone here experienced a video or HDMI board failure, could you comment if the symptoms you saw where similar to what I described in post 44922?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nickwin said:


> Well, I haven't set up my subs yet or run ARC but the D2 sounds fantastic, especially for 2 channel. Im having a hard time getting the video dialed in though and Im a little worried that the VP might be malfunctioning.
> 
> Right off the bat I made the same mistake I always make which is I forgot to reset to factory default before inputing my settings. Im really hoping the issues I am experiencing are simply a setting a missed.
> 
> My set up:
> I have 2 displays:
> Optoma H31 projector (480P) connected to component output 1
> Early 2000s Sony 16:9 1080i CRT tv connect to HDMI out
> 
> I set up duplicates of all my video source inputs:
> Video output config 1: Component priority, 480p, SD color space, YPbPr 4444
> Config 2: HDMI priority, 1080i, HD colorspace, YCpBr
> 
> On both displays I am getting less then stellar video quality. The biggest thing is badly crushed whites in bright scenes (see picture). The green/purple stuff in the CRT pic was a camera artifact, I couldn't see that in person. Both displays appear to need minor brightness, contrast and color/tint adjustments after putting the d2 in the video chain, but much bigger changes than Ive seen when swapping out VPs in the past. The picture adjustment settings in the D2 (button 7) appear to all be at default. Any thoughts on what setting in the D2 could cause this?
> 
> The second problem is I am seeing some image distortion/ noise on both displays. On the projector (component) I was watching True Grit DVD that was included with the bluray, DVD player was outputting 480i, and I was seeing some odd gray horizontal banding across the screen in dark scenes that would kind of move up and down. This was visible in the letter box bars as well, but again only in darker scenes.
> 
> On the CRT (HDMI) I was seeing some static (as in not moving) narrow vertical lines that where either green or purple (see pics, in the picture they look gray but it gives you an idea what it looked like). In both cases the source was a Denon DVD2910 via component.
> 
> All this considered, I can't help but wonder if the video board is failing. Do these sound like a typical video board failure symptoms? The amount of video setting on this thing is amazing so Im really hoping its something on my end but I really need to determine wether the unit needs to be retuned or not. Before the d2 I was using a pio 1121k AVR and the picture I was getting from that was better across the board which leads me to believe something is wrong.
> 
> FW is 1.33
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> UPDATE: I watched some HD cable through the projector the other day and the picture seemed ok so its looking like the problem might be specific to the DVD player. Will test further...
> 
> Nick


I think a lot of the problem here could be due to sending RGB to the Component input of the D2 and having a mismatch in the Input Color Space setting (Video Source Adjust Menu > Picture > Input Color Space) for which flavor of RGB is being sent by the source. Again, this is related to the INPUT side of the D2, not its output.

In the D2, set that to Studio. If that doesn't fix it, go to the source device and look for a setting in it related to output "black levels" which offers only 2 choices. The choices could be named anything (there's no consensus on this), so just try both choices for the output of the source.

That's your best shot at fixing the white crush. (If this is the explanation your near blacks would also be wrong.)

-------------------------------

For the horizontal interference patterns: If they are continuously scrolling slowly upwards then you have the classic symptom of a "ground loop". A ground loop is garbage current that travels between the devices in your setup along the cable shield of the cables connecting them -- trying to find a path to ground so current can flow. The devices don't even need to be turned on for this to happen. The most common interference is power line noise, and this scrolls slowly upwards because TV frames happen at a slightly slower rate than 60Hz.

There are lots of possible sources of ground loop garbage current, but these days the single most common is garbage coming in to your house on the shield of a cable or satellite TV feed. Again, even if you are not viewing that feed. To test this, simply disconnect that feed wire where it comes out of your wall and see if the problem goes away. If that fixes it then you need to properly ground that feed wire where it enters your house.

If that's not the cause, disconnect EVERYTHING from the D2 except for power and video input and video output and see if the problem goes away. If it does, start reconnecting things in logical order until you figure out how the garbage current is getting to the D2.

-------------------------------

The vertical garbage on the HDMI output could also be related to a ground loop, although the symptom is not common.

Instead the problem may be in the "digitizing" of your Component video input to produce the HDMI video output. This could be due to a problem on the video board, or it could be you need to make some adjustments in the Video ADC settings (again, in Video Source Adjust > Picture). These control how the Analog Component video is digitized (ADC: Analog to Digital Converter).

When fiddling with the Video Source Adjust menu, keep in mind that there are a separate set of Video Source Adjust settings for each Source line. So you have to actually view each given Source line before you can view/change the Video Source Adjust settings for that line.
--Bob


----------



## nickwin

Bob Pariseau said:


> I think a lot of the problem here could be due to sending RGB to the Component input of the D2 and having a mismatch in the Input Color Space setting (Video Source Adjust Menu > Picture > Input Color Space) for which flavor of RGB is being sent by the source. Again, this is related to the INPUT side of the D2, not its output.
> 
> In the D2, set that to Studio. If that doesn't fix it, go to the source device and look for a setting in it related to output "black levels" which offers only 2 choices. The choices could be named anything (there's no consensus on this), so just try both choices for the output of the source.
> 
> That's your best shot at fixing the white crush. (If this is the explanation your near blacks would also be wrong.)
> 
> -------------------------------
> 
> For the horizontal interference patterns: If they are continuously scrolling slowly upwards then you have the classic symptom of a "ground loop". A ground loop is garbage current that travels between the devices in your setup along the cable shield of the cables connecting them -- trying to find a path to ground so current can flow. The devices don't even need to be turned on for this to happen. The most common interference is power line noise, and this scrolls slowly upwards because TV frames happen at a slightly slower rate than 60Hz.
> 
> There are lots of possible sources of ground loop garbage current, but these days the single most common is garbage coming in to your house on the shield of a cable or satellite TV feed. Again, even if you are not viewing that feed. To test this, simply disconnect that feed wire where it comes out of your wall and see if the problem goes away. If that fixes it then you need to properly ground that feed wire where it enters your house.
> 
> If that's not the cause, disconnect EVERYTHING from the D2 except for power and video input and video output and see if the problem goes away. If it does, start reconnecting things in logical order until you figure out how the garbage current is getting to the D2.
> 
> -------------------------------
> 
> The vertical garbage on the HDMI output could also be related to a ground loop, although the symptom is not common.
> 
> Instead the problem may be in the "digitizing" of your Component video input to produce the HDMI video output. This could be due to a problem on the video board, or it could be you need to make some adjustments in the Video ADC settings (again, in Video Source Adjust > Picture). These control how the Analog Component video is digitized (ADC: Analog to Digital Converter).
> 
> When fiddling with the Video Source Adjust menu, keep in mind that there are a separate set of Video Source Adjust settings for each Source line. So you have to actually view each given Source line before you can view/change the Video Source Adjust settings for that line.
> --Bob


Thanks Bob! I will give these things a try. I have the d2s input color space set to "studio" but Im wondering about the DVD player setting. I found this in the dvd players manual, does this sound like "black level" setting you where talking about?:

Setup level
0 IRE or 7.5 IRE


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nickwin said:


> Thanks Bob! I will give these things a try. I have the d2s input color space set to "studio" but Im wondering about the DVD player setting. I found this in the dvd players manual, does this sound like "black level" setting you where talking about?:
> 
> Setup level
> 0 IRE or 7.5 IRE


Yes. That's the output setting in the DVD player. The 7.5 IRE choice in the player should match the STUDIO RGB Input choice in the Anthem.
--Bob


----------



## EricE

Has anyone ever lost HDCP on an HDMI input?

I have my HTPC hooked up to HDMI 2 on my D2V. It has been working fine for years on 3 different projectors and 4 different PC’s
Last week I was watching something and all of a sudden black screen. PC was still working fine as when I hooked it up directly to the projector it was ok.
Other inputs with a Oppo blu ray and Sony UHD player were fine. I even swapped the cable and went to a different input. Still a black screen from the PC…

The weird thing is if I pass the signal through a HDFury integral and then through the D2V it works fine.

I’m not sure where the HDCP problem is. Laptop direct to projector is fine but through the D2V no go.


----------



## AVfile

nickwin said:


> The picture adjustment settings in the D2 (button 7) appear to all be at default. Any thoughts on what setting in the D2 could cause this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UPDATE: I watched some HD cable through the projector the other day and the picture seemed ok so its looking like the problem might be specific to the DVD player. Will test further...
> 
> 
> 
> Nick



It could be a per-input setting issue. Go back to the video adjust menu (button 7) after selecting your DVD input and make sure there isn't a custom gamma correction enabled by the previous owner. It's very easy to miss a check mark in there. 

You should also download the Anthem settings backup/restore utility and Live Video Settings Editor (LVSE). This will allow you to more easily see the video settings and play with any custom gamma curves if you have a PC with a serial port connected to the D2, as well as backup your settings. Not sure if custom gamma curves survive a user menu "factory reset" as they are buried within the video processor memory not the main board.


----------



## nickwin

AVfile said:


> It could be a per-input setting issue. Go back to the video adjust menu (button 7) after selecting your DVD input and make sure there isn't a custom gamma correction enabled by the previous owner. It's very easy to miss a check mark in there.
> 
> You should also download the Anthem settings backup/restore utility and Live Video Settings Editor (LVSE). This will allow you to more easily see the video settings and play with any custom gamma curves if you have a PC with a serial port connected to the D2, as well as backup your settings. Not sure if custom gamma curves survive a user menu "factory reset" as they are buried within the video processor memory not the main board.


Thanks you for the suggestions! I will check this today. 

Im really starting to worry that the video board on this unit may be on its way out but I haven't really been able to pin it down. Ive seen all kind of issues/glitches but they are not consistent so its hard to say anything for sure. Ive had brief switching dropouts with solid pink screen, dropouts with green or blue screen with vertical bars of various sizes that don't go away until I switch inputs again, odd double image glitch when stitching cropping mode, and then the "garbage" I mentioned in my previous post on both the HDMI and Comp outputs. I think that last thing could be from electrical interference (noise) but the others seem to be related to the video board. 

Ive also noticed noise in dark scenes and crushed whites from my DVD player but I think this might be setting related.

I should mention that all my inputs are component and I use both comp and HDMI outputs.

Is this typical with the original video board? What percentage of the originals boards have failed at this point? Im starting to think that keeping this unit is to much risk, it was sold as perfectly functional but It really seems like its on the way out.

Does this sound like a failing board to you guys? Its really hard for me to except I might need to return it, it sounds fantastic after running ARC. 

Any one of these issues would probably not raise any concern but when you put it all together its a little worrisome.


----------



## AVfile

nickwin said:


> Thanks you for the suggestions! I will check this today.
> 
> 
> 
> Im really starting to worry that the video board on this unit may be on its way out but I haven't really been able to pin it down. Ive seen all kind of issues/glitches but they are not consistent so its hard to say anything for sure. Ive had brief switching dropouts with solid pink screen, dropouts with green or blue screen with vertical bars of various sizes that don't go away until I switch inputs again, odd double image glitch when stitching cropping mode, and then the "garbage" I mentioned in my previous post on both the HDMI and Comp outputs. I think that last thing could be from electrical interference (noise) but the others seem to be related to the video board.
> 
> 
> 
> Ive also noticed noise in dark scenes and crushed whites from my DVD player but I think this might be setting related.
> 
> 
> 
> I should mention that all my inputs are component and I use both comp and HDMI outputs.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this typical with the original video board? What percentage of the originals boards have failed at this point? Im starting to think that keeping this unit is to much risk, it was sold as perfectly functional but It really seems like its on the way out.
> 
> 
> 
> Does this sound like a failing board to you guys? Its really hard for me to except I might need to return it, it sounds fantastic after running ARC.
> 
> 
> 
> Any one of these issues would probably not raise any concern but when you put it all together its a little worrisome.



I agree with you about the problems that seem to be settings related (gamma and what Bob said) and the rest that seem to be hardware related (dropouts and other anomalies). 

Have you contacted Anthem yet? They will probably recommend restoring factory defaults and reloading firmware. They might also have a utility to zeroize the video processor. 


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk


----------



## nickwin

AVfile said:


> I agree with you about the problems that seem to be settings related (gamma and what Bob said) and the rest that seem to be hardware related (dropouts and other anomalies).
> 
> Have you contacted Anthem yet? They will probably recommend restoring factory defaults and reloading firmware. They might also have a utility to zeroize the video processor.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk


I have emailed back and fourth with Anthem tech support a little bit but they didn't mention either of those things. All they said was if Ive tried all the settings its probably the video board and a replacement would be $1000.

Ive already initiated a return but in the meantime Ill try a factory reset and if that doesn't change anything then maybe ill try to reload the FW too. Its not looking good though, It was dropping out my component output last night repeatedly with this odd screen. I was also getting this kind of pinkish bar that was going across the screen horizontally and would slowly move up and down (interference maybe?). Overall its been highly unstable, which based what Im reading here, isn't normal.

The crushed white issue seems to be limited to my DVD player but I never noticed it before putting the D2 in the signal chain. Seems like a setting for sure but try as I might I can't pinpoint it. Gamma in the d2s input settings was set to default. The dvd player "black level" setting was set to ire 7.5, but changing it to 0 didn't fix the crushed whites. Oddly though I needed to set it to 0 to get the black levels to match the black level from my HD cable box. Im wondering if this is indicating the wrong setting somewhere in the chain. Going a different direction, could a bad component cable cause this kind of thing?


----------



## AVfile

Never seen that! As some of the older units age there have been a few reports of boards going bad, but usually on the HDMI side and I don't recall anyone else stating they were using component inputs only. It would be interesting to know if using HDMI inputs works better.


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk


----------



## nickwin

AVfile said:


> Never seen that! As some of the older units age there have been a few reports of boards going bad, but usually on the HDMI side and I don't recall anyone else stating they were using component inputs only. It would be interesting to know if using HDMI inputs works better.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk


Yeah most of what I hear about is issues with the HDMI board, but Im actually having switching and video issues with component in/out. Im having issues with comp input/HDMI output too though. It sounded like Anthem thought it was possible for the whole video board to fail although its clearly less common. Then again maybe not many people are actually using the component in/outs.

I could test the HDMI inputs, its not really a long term option in this case but it would maybe at least help pinpoint the source of the problem.


----------



## Christian Busch

*Anthem D2V - Push low mid frequencies*

Hi,

I have run arc with 6 measuring points. The result is nice but I would like to push/lift/boost the low mid frequencies (I guess around 100 Hz - 400 Hz). 

How would I do that ? 

best regards
Christian


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Christian Busch said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have run arc with 6 measuring points. The result is nice but I would like to push/lift/boost the low mid frequencies (I guess around 100 Hz - 400 Hz).
> 
> How would I do that ?
> 
> best regards
> Christian


The first thing to do is to confirm that your Sub is in Phase with the main speakers. If not, you will get cancellation through the Crossover region (where the mains and Sub are sharing the reproduction of the same content). They symptom is a feeling of anemic bass in that region. Typically that would be below 120 Hz, but you may have guessed wrong about what you want to correct.

Note that you have to have correct speaker distances entered before you check the Sub Phase.

If you have only one Subwoofer, you can do this without having to redo your ARC measurements. ARC doesn't ever hear the combo of Sub and a speaker at the same time, so Phase adjustments for one Sub don't alter your previous ARC measurements.

If you change your Phase settings, spend some more time listening before doing anything else, as this may be all you need.

Once you've got that out of the way, go into your ARC solution file and open the Targets window. Check what ARC picked for Room Gain. If that's, say, at 2dB or below, try raising it a couple dB. Accept that change, re-Calculate, and re-Upload the new solution.

On the ARC charts, Room Gain looks like a shallow hump in the Target curve down near the Crossover region. The Room Gain value is the height of the peak of that hump (in dB) above the basic volume level of the ARC solution -- as for example what the charts show in the mid-range frequencies.
--Bob


----------



## nickwin

*Help me make sense of my ARC results*

I recently ran ARC on my D2 for the first time and Im a little perplexed by the targets it set.

I changed the "movie" BM targets to all 90hz crossovers and set the subwoofer cutoff to 120hz but I left the "music" BM mode targets default.

Im a little surprised by some of the settings ARC choose, for example 65hz cutoff and crossover for my fronts but 110 hz for my center. Also the subwoofer cutoff was set to 80hz, but the crossover 110hz.

My fonts and surrounds are the same floor standing speaker and are rated to 45hz. The center is rated to 50hz. My sub is a sealed 18" and the room is 24'x25'. 

Im finding that the default targets actually sound a bit better subjectively, at least for music. The bass in "movie" mode (my targets) is fuller but sounds a little more boomy and peaky. Im wondering if there was a legitimate reason ARC choose these targets? I generally like to use a global crossover around 80-100hz to increase my system headroom but in this case should I stick with the default targets?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Based on your Measured results, your room appears to be eating frequencies (room Cancellation Dip) between 100 and 200Hz. This is probably why ARC has chosen such a low Room Gain value. (Typical values would be 2-4dB for Room Gain.)

It also means that your Center measures as having a Resonance Peak around 100 Hz -- i.e., as it comes sharply out of that dip. This is probably why ARC set its Crossover that high -- to help eliminate that excess energy. This is by no means ideal, as a Center Crossover above around 100Hz starts steering noticeable amounts of male dialog into the Subwoofer, which is not a good thing.

I suggest you use the Quick Measure feature in Tools -- shows realtime results for one speaker at one mic location -- and see if repositioning the speakers a bit further away from walls and corners helps smooth out the results between, say, 80 and 200 Hz. If your speakers have any adjustments for bass or low mid-range output (ports, for example, that can be open/closed, or response curve settings), check that these are set appropriately -- typically meaning to do nothing and let the speaker produce what it produces naturally.)

-------------------

You can't specify the "Crossover" for the Sub. ARC needs the freedom to pick a Sub Crossover that works best with the Crossover frequency(s) selected for the other speakers.

You CAN specify the Cutoff for the Sub -- which is like a "MAX EQ" setting for the Subwoofer in that it tells ARC how far up in bass frequencies to assign correction resources to the Sub output. It is not unusual for your choice of Sub Cutoff, and the upload value for Sub Crossover to be different. A higher Cutoff than Crossover is still meaningful in terms of reproduction of the LFE channel (the .1 of 5.1 or 7.1), which can go up to about 120Hz although the bulk of its energy is usually between 50 and 80Hz. I.e., if ARC is allowed to correct the Sub higher in bass, then you get better results from the high frequency end of the LFE channel. But if doing that screws up the rest of the Sub correction then you are assigning to many correction resources up there and need to be more conservative.

------------------

Keep in mind that these things roll into effect over about one octave (factor of 2 in frequency). So for example if you set a Cutoff of 80Hz for the fronts, that means you should be looking for a good fit in the result (match of Calculated curve to Targets curve) down to 1/2 that, or 40Hz. I.e., the fronts should be able to produce quality output (after correction) down to 40Hz because that range from 80 to 40Hz is where they'll be sharing output responsibilities with the portion of bass that's steered to the Sub.

Often ARC will pick a higher Cutoff for a main speaker because it discovers it can't correct that speaker well all the way down to 1/2 some lower frequency. But in the case of your Center speaker, I think it has picked 110Hz because it is trying to use Crossover as another tool to tame that Resonance Peak at 100Hz.
--Bob


----------



## kevyh

*Thread topic question*

Can I post for my ARC curves from my Anthem MRX1120 in this thread, or is there a more appropriate one?
Thanks.


----------



## nickwin

Are ARC filters stored when updating FW or do you need to reload them after updating?

thanks.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nickwin said:


> Are ARC filters stored when updating FW or do you need to reload them after updating?
> 
> thanks.


My understanding is that the correction parameters are in separate memory the firmware update doesn't touch. Even the Reset Factory Defaults you have to do before the firmware install doesn't erase them.

That said, it's always been my practice to re-Upload my existing ARC solution after a firmware update (or any other Reset) -- "just in case".
--Bob


----------



## rsinclair

*Is my d2v dying? Losing picture at random intervals.*

Over the past few weeks, I've started losing picture outright on all the sources connected to my d2v.

I haven't touched the physical system or connected anything differently, it just started happening at random. The only "new" thing in my system is a Harmony Elite remote, but I don't see how that could cause random video drop outs.

I can sometimes restore picture by rebooting the d2v, but lately that isn't even bringing the picture back. I _can_ hear audio on the inputs, just no video. The only sure-fire way I've been able to bring the video back is to pull out my whole rack, unplug the HDMI cable from the Output port, and plug it back in.

I've double-checked that all cables are firmly seated in both the d2v and my source devices. It's also not the TV, because the TV's OSD menus still display if video is lost.

Since the device is well out of warranty at this point, I'm not sure how much something like this would cost to repair (I've just sent a message to Anthem Support), or if it would even be worth it. I've been happy with the AV performance of the unit, but have frankly been disappointed with its clunky menus and flaky HDMI support.

I need to upgrade all of my gear eventually for 4k, but was hoping to not be forced into doing so quite yet. If I do need a new AV processor, I'm questioning whether repair money would be better-spent on a new device.

-R


----------



## nickwin

Bob Pariseau said:


> My understanding is that the correction parameters are in separate memory the firmware update doesn't touch. Even the Reset Factory Defaults you have to do before the firmware install doesn't erase them.
> 
> That said, it's always been my practice to re-Upload my existing ARC solution after a firmware update (or any other Reset) -- "just in case".
> --Bob


Thanks for the info, I decided to reload it just in case.


----------



## nickwin

rsinclair said:


> Over the past few weeks, I've started losing picture outright on all the sources connected to my d2v.
> 
> I haven't touched the physical system or connected anything differently, it just started happening at random. The only "new" thing in my system is a Harmony Elite remote, but I don't see how that could cause random video drop outs.
> 
> I can sometimes restore picture by rebooting the d2v, but lately that isn't even bringing the picture back. I _can_ hear audio on the inputs, just no video. The only sure-fire way I've been able to bring the video back is to pull out my whole rack, unplug the HDMI cable from the Output port, and plug it back in.
> 
> I've double-checked that all cables are firmly seated in both the d2v and my source devices. It's also not the TV, because the TV's OSD menus still display if video is lost.
> 
> Since the device is well out of warranty at this point, I'm not sure how much something like this would cost to repair (I've just sent a message to Anthem Support), or if it would even be worth it. I've been happy with the AV performance of the unit, but have frankly been disappointed with its clunky menus and flaky HDMI support.
> 
> I need to upgrade all of my gear eventually for 4k, but was hoping to not be forced into doing so quite yet. If I do need a new AV processor, I'm questioning whether repair money would be better-spent on a new device.
> 
> -R


I can't answer all of your questions but I am in a similar boat. Purchased a used d2 to use in a secondary system and the video side appears to be not functioning 100%. Anthem can replace the video board on the d2 but its $1000 part, d2v might be slightly different. If its just the HDMI board it might be less. Have you tested the component side?

What do you see when the video drops? Blue screen?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

rsinclair said:


> Over the past few weeks, I've started losing picture outright on all the sources connected to my d2v.
> 
> I haven't touched the physical system or connected anything differently, it just started happening at random. The only "new" thing in my system is a Harmony Elite remote, but I don't see how that could cause random video drop outs.
> 
> I can sometimes restore picture by rebooting the d2v, but lately that isn't even bringing the picture back. I _can_ hear audio on the inputs, just no video. The only sure-fire way I've been able to bring the video back is to pull out my whole rack, unplug the HDMI cable from the Output port, and plug it back in.
> 
> I've double-checked that all cables are firmly seated in both the d2v and my source devices. It's also not the TV, because the TV's OSD menus still display if video is lost.
> 
> Since the device is well out of warranty at this point, I'm not sure how much something like this would cost to repair (I've just sent a message to Anthem Support), or if it would even be worth it. I've been happy with the AV performance of the unit, but have frankly been disappointed with its clunky menus and flaky HDMI support.
> 
> I need to upgrade all of my gear eventually for 4k, but was hoping to not be forced into doing so quite yet. If I do need a new AV processor, I'm questioning whether repair money would be better-spent on a new device.
> 
> -R


Try lowering the input and the output video resolutions. So for example 1080i in and out or 720p in and out. If the problem goes away, but returns when using 1080p, then it is likely your video cable has gone bad. It happens.

If the problem remains despite the lower resolution, try doing a reload of the firmware (which means doing a Reset beforehand, so copy down your settings first). After the firmware install, set up JUST the bare minimum input and output settings needed to test the video problem, and see it is gone. If so, enter the rest of your settings and see if it comes back. If the problem is NOT gone after the re-install, you've pretty much eliminated the things you can test, and the unit likely needs factory service.
--Bob


----------



## greyflag

*Audio Pops*

I'd like to deal with an audio issue which will affect whether or when I replace my AVM-50. I watch a good amount of cable, and I recently picked up a used Oppo BDP-103D to see what the Darbee might do for both cable and BluRay. I will upgrade my Kuro later this year and probably upgrade the processor as well. At this point the AVM-60 is my preferred choice. However.....

With the Oppo in the chain (Arris Comcast box to Oppo HDMI In to the Anthem) nasty things can happen. The local cable company sometimes inserts their own commercials in stereo into a channel broadcasting in Dolby 5.1. When this happens, nasty audible pops occur as the three devices deal with the change in audio formats. Pops occur when changing channels as well. Changing the Oppo's output to LPCM does not help. I contacted Anthem and asked if this behavior will also occur with the AVM-60, as i would like to use the Oppo's video processing for cable sources. I got a qualified "maybe". 

With Bob and others here well versed in all things Anthem and Oppo, I'd love to hear some opinions and suggestions. 

Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

greyflag said:


> I'd like to deal with an audio issue which will affect whether or when I replace my AVM-50. I watch a good amount of cable, and I recently picked up a used Oppo BDP-103D to see what the Darbee might do for both cable and BluRay. I will upgrade my Kuro later this year and probably upgrade the processor as well. At this point the AVM-60 is my preferred choice. However.....
> 
> With the Oppo in the chain (Arris Comcast box to Oppo HDMI In to the Anthem) nasty things can happen. The local cable company sometimes inserts their own commercials in stereo into a channel broadcasting in Dolby 5.1. When this happens, nasty audible pops occur as the three devices deal with the change in audio formats. Pops occur when changing channels as well. Changing the Oppo's output to LPCM does not help. I contacted Anthem and asked if this behavior will also occur with the AVM-60, as i would like to use the Oppo's video processing for cable sources. I got a qualified "maybe".
> 
> With Bob and others here well versed in all things Anthem and Oppo, I'd love to hear some opinions and suggestions.
> 
> Thanks


You really should not be getting transients when the digital audio input format changes, but of course you can't really know what the Comcast box is receiving at those transitions, and what it is sending out.

That said, if what you are hearing is a single Pop, what may be happening is that you have a DC voltage bias in your setup -- a type of ground loop problem. With a DC voltage bias, volume "0" is not voltage 0, and when the signal returns you get a pop as the muting lifts (during the transition of digital formats) and the voltage on the outputs jumps back to that DV voltage bias level.

A DC voltage bias can exist because something in your video setup is putting voltage on the cable shields of the cables connecting your equipment. This type of garbage is more commonly heard as 60 cycle power line "hum", particularly in the subwoofer. The voltage travels between you equipment on the shields of the cables connecting them -- and can pass through devices even when they are "off".

Ground loop garbage current can happen if you are using multiple outlets to power your equipment and they don't happen to all be at the same ground level. It can also happen if the feed line for your Comcast box is not properly grounded where it enters your house -- garbage outside your house comes into your house that way on the cable shield of that feed line. It can also happen if you have a faulty device (power amps are the usual culprit) that is leaking voltage to its chassis shield.

Figuring out the source of the problem can be a neat trick. But here's a good place to start: f your cable box happens to be a DVR, try this: Disconnect the Comcast feed wire where it comes out of the wall, and play some recorded content on the DVR. Do the Pops go away?
--Bob


----------



## greyflag

Bob Pariseau said:


> You really should not be getting transients when the digital audio input format changes, but of course you can't really know what the Comcast box is receiving at those transitions, and what it is sending out.
> 
> That said, if what you are hearing is a single Pop, what may be happening is that you have a DC voltage bias in your setup -- a type of ground loop problem. With a DC voltage bias, volume "0" is not voltage 0, and when the signal returns you get a pop as the muting lifts (during the transition of digital formats) and the voltage on the outputs jumps back to that DV voltage bias level.
> 
> A DC voltage bias can exist because something in your video setup is putting voltage on the cable shields of the cables connecting your equipment. This type of garbage is more commonly heard as 60 cycle power line "hum", particularly in the subwoofer. The voltage travels between you equipment on the shields of the cables connecting them -- and can pass through devices even when they are "off".
> 
> Ground loop garbage current can happen if you are using multiple outlets to power your equipment and they don't happen to all be at the same ground level. It can also happen if the feed line for your Comcast box is not properly grounded where it enters your house -- garbage outside your house comes into your house that way on the cable shield of that feed line. It can also happen if you have a faulty device (power amps are the usual culprit) that is leaking voltage to its chassis shield.
> 
> Figuring out the source of the problem can be a neat trick. But here's a good place to start: f your cable box happens to be a DVR, try this: Disconnect the Comcast feed wire where it comes out of the wall, and play some recorded content on the DVR. Do the Pops go away?
> --Bob


Hi Bob,

Before you replied, I disconnected the cable from the Oppo and am running the box into the Anthem. Of course, there have been no audio format changes since I did that although channel changes are silent now. Everything is plugged into an APC H-15 power conditioner. It's behaving a bit strangely and I'm going to call their support line. The voltage in to it indicates less than the voltage in to an identical unit upstairs. Details to follow...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Also be aware that the 3-prong power cord on the OPPO may provide just the extra path to ground for garbage, ground loop current (coming from elsewhere) to flow. I.e., it can allow an existing, hidden problem to present itself.

You can test if this is the case by TEMPORARILY using a 3-prong to 2-prong cheater adapter. *Please be aware that if the cheater adapter fixes the problem, you should NOT leave it that way.* Such a result would be strong evidence that something, somewhere else in your system, (or on the content cabling coming into your house) is putting current on the chassis and shield grounds. This is not good. So you need to find the source of the garbage and fix it so that things work correctly even when using the 3-prong power plug normally.
--Bob


----------



## greyflag

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Also be aware that the 3-prong power cord on the OPPO may provide just the extra path to ground for garbage, ground loop current (coming from elsewhere) to flow. I.e., it can allow an existing, hidden problem to present itself.
> 
> You can test if this is the case by TEMPORARILY using a 3-prong to 2-prong cheater adapter. *Please be aware that if the cheater adapter fixes the problem, you should NOT leave it that way.* Such a result would be strong evidence that something, somewhere else in your system, (or on the content cabling coming into your house) is putting current on the chassis and shield grounds. This is not good. So you need to find the source of the garbage and fix it so that things work correctly even when using the 3-prong power plug normally.
> --Bob


There appears to be no issue with the Oppo out of the chain. I will be replacing all HDMI cables with premium certified ones in the near future. I just switched from a HD channel with Dolby 5.1 to a SD one broadcasting in 2.0 stereo. No noise. It seemed with the Oppo in the chain, a extended handshake was taking place back and forth between devices. I don't quite know enough to be dangerous, but I've heard a 60 cycle hum before and this didn't resemble it. I've also had something similar happen switching between surround tracks and stereo, i.e. movie to menu with a totally different player. 

Thanks,

Glenn


----------



## greyflag

greyflag said:


> There appears to be no issue with the Oppo out of the chain. I will be replacing all HDMI cables with premium certified ones in the near future. I just switched from a HD channel with Dolby 5.1 to a SD one broadcasting in 2.0 stereo. No noise. It seemed with the Oppo in the chain, a extended handshake was taking place back and forth between devices. I don't quite know enough to be dangerous, but I've heard a 60 cycle hum before and this didn't resemble it. I've also had something similar happen switching between surround tracks and stereo, i.e. movie to menu with a totally different player.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Glenn


P.S.

Next time that I open things back up, I will be switching out the cables, and will lift the ground on the Oppo temporarily when I connect the cable box to it if the issue still exists. In the meantime, the Oppo as a stand alone player has no issues. This will occur when the TV and/or processor is replaced. 

"In Bob, We Trust"


----------



## facke02

I have a D2v up for sell.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-audio-gear/2921748-fs-anthem-statement-d2v.html

Thanks


----------



## rsinclair

Up until recently, I was using both HDMI Outputs on my d2v, until HDMI Out 1 decided to stop working.

I used Out 1 for sending all my Sources to my TV as usual.
I used Out 2 to send (just audio) to my Astro A50 wireless headphones, using a converter to go from HDMI > Optical audio, which is what the A50 headphone receiver accepts. 

All told, worked like a charm: when the wife and baby go to sleep, I Mute the d2v to kill sound to the 7.2 speakers, pick up the headphones, and continue listening away seamlessly.

However, since I'm now down to one HDMI Out, my setup is compromised.

Since HDMI Out 1 is dead, I'm posting to ask if there is any OTHER way to get simultaneous audio output (preferably from all Sources) to the Optical in on the headphone receiver, while using (now) HDMI Out 2 to deliver video to the TV.

I tried, for example, to connect a Digital Coax cable to either of the Digital/Rec-Out ports on the d2v, and used a Coax > Optical converter box to send the signal to the headphone receiver. Didn't work, and didn't see any settings in the d2v's Menus to "enable" this audio on my Sources.

Am I missing an obvious way to make the connection I'm looking for?

Thanks,
R


----------



## nickwin

I just happened to have d2s sitting side by side, an older brown board unit and a newer red board one. The red board unit is also the rack ears version. Much to my suprise there are big differences when looking through the case, there are two transformers in the older version that are completely absent in the newer one (they are not in the same spot at least). 

I wasn't aware of any big changes between older and newer d2s. Out of curiosity does anyone know more about this?

EDIT: Sorry, ignore the toe... haha.


----------



## barhoram

I just upgraded my projector, and am having a hard time with the Anthem Video Calibration.


With all of the projector settings (Brightness, Contrast, etc at 0), I generate the color bar from the Anthem. Per Anthem manual, I'm supposed to adjust color and brightness on the projector until the two of the 3 darkest bars on the bottom of the color bar go away.... However, I can only make out the third lightest....no matter how low are high I adjust the settings I can't see the other two...same thing with the white color bars. 

edit--actually I can make out one the far left white bar..the right two always remain as one.

Any ideas??


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## Bob Pariseau

^ At a guess you are sending RGB to the Projector, and there's a mismatch in settings in the Anthem and the projector for which flavor of RGB you are using.

The one you want is called Studio RGB in the Anthem -- which means Black = 16, not Black = 0. The setting in the projector could be called just about anything, but look for a setting that has to do with "black levels" and which offers only 2 choices.
--Bob


----------



## kevyh

EricE said:


> Has anyone ever lost HDCP on an HDMI input?
> 
> I have my HTPC hooked up to HDMI 2 on my D2V. It has been working fine for years on 3 different projectors and 4 different PC’s
> Last week I was watching something and all of a sudden black screen. PC was still working fine as when I hooked it up directly to the projector it was ok.
> Other inputs with a Oppo blu ray and Sony UHD player were fine. I even swapped the cable and went to a different input. Still a black screen from the PC…
> 
> The weird thing is if I pass the signal through a HDFury integral and then through the D2V it works fine.
> 
> I’m not sure where the HDCP problem is. Laptop direct to projector is fine but through the D2V no go.


Yes. I had an older Sony XBR that would lose HDCP every couple months. I had to turn everything off and unplug all HDMI and TV power then replug it all.



Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk


----------



## boyce89976

I tried a search, but as usual, it returns what looks like posts related to the question, but they really aren't. 

I just got a new smart TV (LG OLED65B7) and want to use the audio return channel from the TV to connect back to my AVM50 3D to have surround sound on streamed content. I can't find any documentation on the AVM50 regarding Audio Return Channel? Should I use HDMI output 1 or output 2?


----------



## Erod

Posted this elsewhere, probably should have here. (Wow, this is a huge thread.)


ARC question (I've only used ARC for a month after years of Audyssey). My room is 15W x 22L x 14H.

First, I used quick measure to match my subs (set both to 72 dB so they would hit 76 dB when played together). Then I ran ARC.

Good sound, but when I run pink noise across all of the 7.2.4 setup after calibration, I get different MLP readings across each channel ranging from 73 dB to 78 dB, and my subs go all the way to 84dB after ARC. My room gain calibration was 1.65.

Do those variances seem right after ARC calibration? 

So, I trimmed all the speakers up/down so that everything is hitting 75 dB, except I left the subs alone for now. I also increased the room gain to 4 for a warmer sound, then recalculated and uploaded ARC before trimming the speakers to 75 dB.

Do most of you trim your speakers to 75 dB after ARC, and do you trim your subs back as well?


----------



## AVfile

boyce89976 said:


> I tried a search, but as usual, it returns what looks like posts related to the question, but they really aren't.
> 
> 
> 
> I just got a new smart TV (LG OLED65B7) and want to use the audio return channel from the TV to connect back to my AVM50 3D to have surround sound on streamed content. I can't find any documentation on the AVM50 regarding Audio Return Channel? Should I use HDMI output 1 or output 2?




Search for "audio return channel" and see first hit prior to yours:



Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ It does not. No Audio Return Channel support in the D2, D2v, or D2v / 3D.
> 
> 
> 
> Use Optical or Coax digital audio input instead.
> 
> --Bob


----------



## AVfile

Erod said:


> Do those variances seem right after ARC calibration?
> 
> So, I trimmed all the speakers up/down so that everything is hitting 75 dB, except I left the subs alone for now. I also increased the room gain to 4 for a warmer sound, then recalculated and uploaded ARC before trimming the speakers to 75 dB.
> 
> Do most of you trim your speakers to 75 dB after ARC, and do you trim your subs back as well?



That doesn't seem right. 

We generally don't trim speakers or subs after uploading ARC calibration. I believe ARC software uses position 1 to determine levels, which in my experience match quite closely with levels that I measure with an SPL meter from the MLP.


----------



## trvtec

Anyone have any advice on digitizing to a PC from a Statement D2? I've got a couple cassette tapes I'd like to push into my digital library and may even try my hand at needledrops. I'm probably overthinking this, just curious what others thing. I know I can buy a box to do this but I just have to think the ADC in the Anthem is better than I can buy in a $200 outboard box. Maybe not?


----------



## airboyd

Any Anthem updates on the AVM-60 coming down the pike leading up to CES?

I've been offered a really good deal, almost too good to pass up, on an Onkyo PR-RZ5100.

I have a D2 and had been considering the AVM-60 as my next upgrade as the home theater side is getting to be a mess with 4K.


----------



## Nicoff

trvtec said:


> Anyone have any advice on digitizing to a PC from a Statement D2? I've got a couple cassette tapes I'd like to push into my digital library and may even try my hand at needledrops. I'm probably overthinking this, just curious what others thing. I know I can buy a box to do this but I just have to think the ADC in the Anthem is better than I can buy in a $200 outboard box. Maybe not?




I guess that you could use the D2 tape input and then connect a digital out (hdmi?) from the D2 to a computer that has hdmi connection to do the processing.

I digitized my tapes some time Back. I did it this way:
1. Bought a ADC converter box.
2. Connected the analog cassette deck outputs to the ADC box and the digital USB output from the converter box to a PC.
3. I then used software to capture the signal. I used the software to fix blemishes (my tapes were from LPs and have the typical LP noises).
4. Then I created the tracks and used software to tag each track.

It was a LONG process since I had lots of tapes. 

You indicated that you have just a couple of tapes. I assume that what you have in the tapes is not available commercially and that’s why you want to do the conversion. You may want to consider sending the tapes somewhere to have them digitized. It might save you time and those places might be better equipped to get the best quality sound from your tapes.

Now, if you had lots of tapes with music that is commercially available, don’t bother and subscribe to Spotify, Tidal or similar service. Those services have digital versions of equal or higher resolution of the music already.

I no longer listen to my digitized cassettes anymore. Instead I listen to better versions (remastered versions for example) on Spotify and Tidal. Better quality at a reasonable monthly fee. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## trvtec

Nicoff said:


> I guess that you could use the D2 tape input and then connect a digital out (hdmi?) from the D2 to a computer that has hdmi connection to do the processing.
> 
> I digitized my tapes some time Back. I did it this way:
> 1. Bought a ADC converter box.
> 2. Connected the analog cassette deck outputs to the ADC box and the digital USB output from the converter box to a PC.
> 3. I then used software to capture the signal. I used the software to fix blemishes (my tapes were from LPs and have the typical LP noises).
> 4. Then I created the tracks and used software to tag each track.
> 
> It was a LONG process since I had lots of tapes.
> 
> You indicated that you have just a couple of tapes. I assume that what you have in the tapes is not available commercially and that’s why you want to do the conversion. You may want to consider sending the tapes somewhere to have them digitized. It might save you time and those places might be better equipped to get the best quality sound from your tapes.
> 
> Now, if you had lots of tapes with music that is commercially available, don’t bother and subscribe to Spotify, Tidal or similar service. Those services have digital versions of equal or higher resolution of the music already.
> 
> I no longer listen to my digitized cassettes anymore. Instead I listen to better versions (remastered versions for example) on Spotify and Tidal. Better quality at a reasonable monthly fee. Just my 2 cents.


Hello! Thanks for all of the very helpful advice. I did find a solution - a SEDNA PC Sound card which has a breakout panel with Coax Digital input. I can copy Main Path to Record, out digital, into the PC digital and record with no further conversion. Works really well from what I can hear, just using Audacity to make sure it's all working at this point.

That said, I probably overexaggerated my "need" to copy the cassettes. Both are limited issue and at least one won't ever be on a streaming source but your suggestions honestly make a lot of sense. My primary purpose for this was to record vinyl and I'm now able to do that so it's all good!

Thanks again for taking the time to reply!


----------



## rsinclair

*What is the "correct" Data Format (Output Range) for the d2v?*

I recently changed the way I'm connecting my Xfinity X1 to my d2v, and it screwed up the black levels on the device.

I used to have it hooked up as a pass-through input from my Xbox One, but decided to hook it up directly as an HDMI Source to make both devices easier to control with a universal remote.

When I connected it directly, the black levels on the Xfinity X1 went to garbage, pure blacks were now dark gray. If the X1 used to have the ability to choose an Output Range (i.e. 16-235 or 0-255), it doesn't seem to have it any longer. When I changed the Data Format away from Auto to find one that corrected the black levels of the Xfinity X1, it ended up crushing the blacks on all my other sources.

I use a Pioneer Kuro as a display. My sources include an Xbox One X, Xfinity X1, PS4, Wii U, Nintendo Switch, and Apple TV. I also use an HTPC that has settings for Output Range on both the AMD Catalyst Desktop video utility, as well as my preferred video player, MPC-HC, which also lets you choose an Output Range.

I assume the goal is to have every piece in the chain using the same setting, but since I've been tinkering with the settings, I can't get back to a good starting point. I figured I would ask here to see what the preferred or ideal Data Format is for the d2v (at least when connected to a Kuro), and work from there to try to align all my sources to that setting.

I suppose worst case scenario I can set up two different Video Out Configs on the d2v, one for the Xfinity, and one for everything else, but I'd prefer to have one profile for everything if possible.

Thanks for any advice.

-R


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ This is stuff that should only apply if you are using RGB video format Input or Output, but some devices screw up and also apply it when YCbCr video format is in effect.

The "correct" RGB flavor for home theater use -- for both Input and Output -- is what Anthem calls RGB Studio Level. Other devices likely use different names for this, but names like Extended or Full or Black=0 are likely WRONG. Names like Set Top Box, Limited, or Video, or Black=16 are likely RIGHT.

This is a *MANUAL* setting -- it is not negotiated during the HDMI handshake -- and must match in the devices at each end of each HDMI cable or you get the type of problems you describe.

---------------------

Try setting the Infinity to output YCbCr -- that's your best shot at getting the correct encoding from it. Look also for a setting related to "black levels" which offers only two choices, and try to figure out which one will give you Black=16.

In the Anthem, select to view that video from the Xfinity, then press and hold the "7" button until the Video Source Adjust menu appears. Go into the Picture column on the left and set the line for RGB color space to Studio. This will only apply when the Anthem is receiving RGB formatted video, but set it that way just in case the Xfinity insists on sending RGB.

Back out of Video Source Adjust and go into Setup in the Anthem, and then into Video Output Configuration. Auto is the normal Color Space choice there, but if you want to send RGB to your TV then set the output to RGB Studio Level.

Now go into the input settings in your TV. Look for a setting that has to do with "black levels" and which offers only two choices. Once again, try to select the one that results in Black=16.

----------------------

If you have multiple sources sending RGB to the Anthem, you will need to check the output setting for each such source, and also the input setting in the Anthem Video Source Adjust menu (which remembers settings on a per source input basis -- i.e., you need to be viewing the source to see/change its Video Source Adjust menu settings.)

----------------------

The other choice here -- the 0-255 range, which the Anthem calls RGB Extended -- is used by computers cabled directly to computer monitors. There is no video processing going on between the creation of the video in the computer and the display in the monitor, so the headroom/footroom provided by the 16-235 range is not needed. In the case of the Anthem, you would only used the 0-255 range for output if connected to a TV that can not be set to use the 16-235 range -- typically a computer monitor being used as your TV display.

For input sources, the one case where you would use the 0-255 range is from games machine sources like the PS3. Games are typically authored as if they were running on a computer directly connected to a monitor, so they are authored for that 0-255 range.

In such case, you set the Input configuration of the Anthem (Video Source Adjust menu) to RGB Extended, but you still leave the OUTPUT configuration of the Anthem on Auto, or YCbCr, or RGB Studio.
--Bob


----------



## barhoram

......60hz vs 24hz question....I think..

D2V is connected to a JVC Projector and both Oppo 203 player and DirecTV satellite. I haven't watched anything on DirecTV in some time through the D2V...but was trying to watch something last night. On 1080P 24 output, the video was very choppy/jumpy and not smooth at all. It's always perfectly smooth on anything played via the Oppo. 

I remember something about framerate, but it escapes me....should I be able to watch DirecTV through the D2v at 1080p 24, smoothly?

Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Your DirecTV is likely playing /60 content.

Although /24 content can be played at either /24 or /60, /60 content must be played at /60. There is no way to determine which frames can be safely dropped to change /60 content to /24 output.

(Even if you are watching a movie on DirecTV -- which originated as 24 frames per second -- DirecTV is likely sending that out as /60, and the D2v will not handle the task of detecting the original /24 rate embedded inside of that /60, and producing good /24 output.)

If you try to force /60 content to /24 you will get "frame drop stutter", which is pretty much impossible to ignore.
--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Thanks Bob.....I did some more testing. The weird thing is that some of the time playing /24 looks correct...but then will eventually get back to stuttering.

I guess I need to set up a set 1080p /60 output config just for DirecTV?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Yep.
--Bob


----------



## AVfile

barhoram said:


> I guess I need to set up a set 1080p /60 output config just for DirecTV?


You might also want an extra source setup at 60p for the Oppo when playing a 60p UHD or foreign 50i video.


----------



## barhoram

4K question.....

I know the D2V can not handle 4K video. Can a 4K output from a BluRay player be sent through an HDMI splitter with one of the outputs sent to the D2V...and still recieve the HDMI Audio? Or will the fact that the video is above 1080p not allow this to work?

I have a potentially odd situation with a BluRay player that currently has only 1 HDMI cable running to the D2V.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ That won't work. The D2v won't accept the 4K coming out of its side of the splitter. Odds are the handshake will fail altogether and you'll get nothing out either side.
--Bob


----------



## broker156

*Anthem D2 no power*

Anthem D2 will turn on but will not go next step and Power ON. Anthem screen first line comes on but not next line that reads Powering On


----------



## broker156

*D2 power on problem*

D2 will not Power On. Turn it on and first line on D2 shows up BUT 2nd line showing Powering ON will not come on. How to fix this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

broker156 said:


> Anthem D2 will turn on but will not go next step and Power ON. Anthem screen first line comes on but not next line that reads Powering On


Get in touch with Anthem Tech Support.

If you've had a recent power failure, there may be a relatively easy fix. There's a known (albeit rare) failure mode in the original D2 (not the D2v) which can result in firmware corruption if external devices (usually the power amps) dump voltage back INTO the outputs of the D2 as they crash during a power failure. The symptom is that the D2 runs really really REALLY slowly. Slow enough that it appears to not be advancing at all. The fix is to re-install the firmware.

If that doesn't do it, then the unit will likely need hardware service.

It it DOES fix it, consider putting the D2 on a battery backup so that it stays live during a power failure until you have a chance to shut it off normally.
--Bob


----------



## dfaith

Oh learned ones I no longer can play 3D blurays. If I run straight from the player to the monitor no problem. If the AVM 50 3d is patched in the player no longer recognises the display. I haven't made any changes that I know of. Any suggestions.


----------



## AVfile

dfaith, I'm not sure if this is related but I have started getting really flaky results using the "through" output setting. It sometimes causes my projector to shut down during the handshake when inserting a 3D blu-ray. 


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk


----------



## dfaith

It's odd for sure. I've tried different HDMI cables all new good quality no luck.
DVD's work great though. I've checked the settings in the projector and player, everything set for 3D. Connecting player direct to projector 3D workd as it should. I'm wondering if there is a reboot you can do to the Anthem, if so do I need to save ARC prior to doing this. Anyway not a huge deal, I only have 6 titles, I love my unit all the same for how music sounds and the awesome picture with DVD and Bluray.


----------



## greyflag

Does anyone need an old single DSP board from an old AVM-50? I still have it from when I upgraded mine (now replaced by an AVM-60) to the dual DSP as part of the ARC upgrade. Free to a good home, or it goes to electronics recycling. Apologies if this should be in the classifieds; I'm not trying to sell it.


----------



## zpoint

*Is my D2v dying? Losing picture at random intervals*



rsinclair said:


> Over the past few weeks, I've started losing picture outright on all the sources connected to my d2v.
> 
> I haven't touched the physical system or connected anything differently, it just started happening at random. The only "new" thing in my system is a Harmony Elite remote, but I don't see how that could cause random video drop outs.
> 
> I can sometimes restore picture by rebooting the d2v, but lately that isn't even bringing the picture back. I _can_ hear audio on the inputs, just no video. The only sure-fire way I've been able to bring the video back is to pull out my whole rack, unplug the HDMI cable from the Output port, and plug it back in.
> 
> I've double-checked that all cables are firmly seated in both the d2v and my source devices. It's also not the TV, because the TV's OSD menus still display if video is lost.
> 
> Since the device is well out of warranty at this point, I'm not sure how much something like this would cost to repair (I've just sent a message to Anthem Support), or if it would even be worth it. I've been happy with the AV performance of the unit, but have frankly been disappointed with its clunky menus and flaky HDMI support.
> 
> I need to upgrade all of my gear eventually for 4k, but was hoping to not be forced into doing so quite yet. If I do need a new AV processor, I'm questioning whether repair money would be better-spent on a new device.
> 
> -R


I too have been experiencing a similar issue for the past few months. At first I thought it was the HDMI switching as it is finicky at times so I would reboot everything and try again. It's now persistent, here's what happens.

My Oppo BDP-105 is connected to HDMI1. The video appears on my Samsung LED display but will "flash" to a black screen for 1-2 seconds then back to the Oppo display. I have a PS4 connected to HDMI2 and when I switch to that, I get no video. I've tried swapping my Oppo and dPS4 to HDMI3, 4, etc with no difference at all. Audio over HDMI works just fine.

I've tried different cables, reducing video out to 720p and even resetting to the factory defaults. After setting to factory defaults, I make one change to select the HDMI1 port for my Oppo and it goes back to the flash to black, back to Oppo video, etc.

I can select an unused source (or turn off a device connected to the selected source) and the OSD appears on my Samsung tv so the output appears to be fine. I have gotten the video to display correctly only twice in the past few months and I swear it only worked after not using my equipment for several days *and* when I see the Anthem logo appear when it boots. The Anthem logo does not appear every time I start the unit, even if I unplug/plug it back in. Not sure if the logo is a clue since I cannot get it to reliably appear or it's just a coincidence.


----------



## RIppolito

*No audio on HDMI audio-only port from Sony UBP-X800*

Forgive me if this has been already discussed on this thread...

I recently picked up a Sony UBP-X800 UHD blu ray player. I wanted to use the dual HDMI outputs: one for the 4K video to an LG OLED, and the second to bring all audio to my AVM 50.

All is mostly working correctly. I am having a problem with not getting any audio when I use the audio-only HDMI port on the player, and that is where I could use some guidance.

So far, I have done the following...
- I have separate HDMI for video (HDMI 1 to the 4K display) and audio (preamp with HDMI 2 and digital coax inputs)
- in Setup>settings>HDMI audio on the player, I have selected 'HDMI 2', rather than 'auto'
- I have used the HDMI cable / AVM 50 HDMI input to another player (Oppo), so I know the cable and the preamp HDMI input work
- I have used the digital coax output from the player, and it plays the Dolby Digital bitstream successfully, so I know the disc works
- I have reset the audio inputs in the UBP-X800, and it didn't seem to make any difference (by the way, it didn't look like it did anything)

- I tried the blu-ray player on another configuration (Kuro and MRX 300), and everything worked perfectly. Blu-rays and multi-channel SACDs all had multi-channel PCM output thru the MRX.

Now that I knew that the payer's audio-only HDMI output was good, I was pretty confident that my hardware was good. I reconnected it to the OLED / AVM 50, and initially, audio was coming out. As soon as I went into settings on the AVM 50, the audio went away. When I went into the source config, and stepped down to configure the audio, it started sending audio again. Then, as soon as I began backing out of that section, the audio disappeared, and now I get no audio from HDMI.

Does anyone (Bob or Nick) know what could be causing this? Is there anything else someone could suggest I should try to diagnose this?

Thank you in advance...be well
Ron


----------



## Chin Taiy

When My ANTHEM AVM50V software update, it becomes a brick state ....

In the previous article mentioned using the AVRisp Programmer can be restored to normal, so I would like to ask some questions ...


1.AVRisp Programmer has a specific brand ?! Or the market is the brand Jieke !?
2.AVRisp Programmer update file or firmware how to obtain !?

Thank you very much

I live in Taiwan,If the AVM50V is to be shipped back to Canada,I will be very disturbed


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Chin Taiy said:


> When My ANTHEM AVM50V software update, it becomes a brick state ....
> 
> In the previous article mentioned using the AVRisp Programmer can be restored to normal, so I would like to ask some questions ...
> 
> 
> 1.AVRisp Programmer has a specific brand ?! Or the market is the brand Jieke !?
> 2.AVRisp Programmer update file or firmware how to obtain !?
> 
> Thank you very much
> 
> I live in Taiwan,If the AVM50V is to be shipped back to Canada,I will be very disturbed


There are a couple different ways to recover from a failed firmware install, depending on what part of the install failed.

The simplest is to use the Flash Eraser program -- a Windows utility that forces the programmable parts of the Anthem into a state to accept a firmware install. This also has the side effect of wiping out your settings.

If you still can't do a firmware install after running Flash Eraser, then you need to attach a simple piece of hardware to the Anthem to further force the programmable parts into the right state. That's likely what you are talking about.

Both the Flash Eraser utility and that piece of hardware come from Anthem Tech Support. There should be no problem getting them from Tech Support.

Of course it is also possible that your unit is simply broken. In which case it will need service. But it's certainly worth trying these two recovery steps before shipping the unit out.
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RIppolito said:


> Forgive me if this has been already discussed on this thread...
> 
> I recently picked up a Sony UBP-X800 UHD blu ray player. I wanted to use the dual HDMI outputs: one for the 4K video to an LG OLED, and the second to bring all audio to my AVM 50.
> 
> All is mostly working correctly. I am having a problem with not getting any audio when I use the audio-only HDMI port on the player, and that is where I could use some guidance.
> 
> So far, I have done the following...
> - I have separate HDMI for video (HDMI 1 to the 4K display) and audio (preamp with HDMI 2 and digital coax inputs)
> - in Setup>settings>HDMI audio on the player, I have selected 'HDMI 2', rather than 'auto'
> - I have used the HDMI cable / AVM 50 HDMI input to another player (Oppo), so I know the cable and the preamp HDMI input work
> - I have used the digital coax output from the player, and it plays the Dolby Digital bitstream successfully, so I know the disc works
> - I have reset the audio inputs in the UBP-X800, and it didn't seem to make any difference (by the way, it didn't look like it did anything)
> 
> - I tried the blu-ray player on another configuration (Kuro and MRX 300), and everything worked perfectly. Blu-rays and multi-channel SACDs all had multi-channel PCM output thru the MRX.
> 
> Now that I knew that the payer's audio-only HDMI output was good, I was pretty confident that my hardware was good. I reconnected it to the OLED / AVM 50, and initially, audio was coming out. As soon as I went into settings on the AVM 50, the audio went away. When I went into the source config, and stepped down to configure the audio, it started sending audio again. Then, as soon as I began backing out of that section, the audio disappeared, and now I get no audio from HDMI.
> 
> Does anyone (Bob or Nick) know what could be causing this? Is there anything else someone could suggest I should try to diagnose this?
> 
> Thank you in advance...be well
> Ron


I don't know how Sony has configured that 2nd HDMI output on they 800, but if it is expecting to be connected to an HDMI port that is HDCP 2.2 compliant you may be out of luck.

There are lots of these Sony players out there, so it is highly likely Anthem Tech Support already has experience with how they work (or fail to work) for HDMI Audio with the AVM 50, and what workarounds you should try. I'd suggest you get in touch with Tech Support.
--Bob


----------



## Chin Taiy

Bob Pariseau said:


> There are a couple different ways to recover from a failed firmware install, depending on what part of the install failed.
> 
> The simplest is to use the Flash Eraser program -- a Windows utility that forces the programmable parts of the Anthem into a state to accept a firmware install. This also has the side effect of wiping out your settings.
> 
> If you still can't do a firmware install after running Flash Eraser, then you need to attach a simple piece of hardware to the Anthem to further force the programmable parts into the right state. That's likely what you are talking about.
> 
> Both the Flash Eraser utility and that piece of hardware come from Anthem Tech Support. There should be no problem getting them from Tech Support.
> 
> Of course it is also possible that your unit is simply broken. In which case it will need service. But it's certainly worth trying these two recovery steps before shipping the unit out.
> --Bob



Dear Bob
Thank you very much for the message

1. If I want Flash Eraser and AVRisp software is not required to obtain from the original?
2. Can AVRisp hardware be purchased on ebay? Is there a specific brand?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Chin Taiy said:


> Dear Bob
> Thank you very much for the message
> 
> 1. If I want Flash Eraser and AVRisp software is not required to obtain from the original?
> 2. Can AVRisp hardware be purchased on ebay? Is there a specific brand?


Flash Eraser is a utility program you get from Anthem.

I've never heard a name for the hardware piece I'm talking about. I have no idea what AVRisp is. The hardware I'm talking about is a simple rig that I believe Anthem purpose-built for fixing such issues. As far as I know, it is only available from Anthem Tech Support.

The purpose of both of these is simply to reconfigure the programmable circuits of the Anthem so you can do a firmware install in the normal way.
--Bob


----------



## Chin Taiy

Can someone provide flash eraser supplied byAnthem
Thus far, no luck receiving a response fromAnthem. Thanks in advance for your assistance.


----------



## georgejosephine

*Center Channel Dropping on Statement d2v*

Sorry if this is in the wrong place; couldn't seem to find a better one.

I recently bought a house with a great dedicated home theater, including a Statement d2v. Everything has been working great until I started setting up a Harmony remote to control everything. As part of the setup, it ended up cycling through a lot of my inputs on the d2v, and now the center channel is completely mute on my UHD bluray player. Works fine on all other inputs, so it's not an issue with the speaker or lines - it's simply not sending signal to the center channel for my UHD player. I've tried everything I can think of to fix it - any suggestions?

Thanks - George.


----------



## cvinfig

georgejosephine said:


> Sorry if this is in the wrong place; couldn't seem to find a better one.
> 
> I recently bought a house with a great dedicated home theater, including a Statement d2v. Everything has been working great until I started setting up a Harmony remote to control everything. As part of the setup, it ended up cycling through a lot of my inputs on the d2v, and now the center channel is completely mute on my UHD bluray player. Works fine on all other inputs, so it's not an issue with the speaker or lines - it's simply not sending signal to the center channel for my UHD player. I've tried everything I can think of to fix it - any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks - George.


Check the surround mode for that input. The AnthemLogic Music mode doesn’t send a signal to the center channel speaker.


----------



## Shrike645

georgejosephine said:


> Sorry if this is in the wrong place; couldn't seem to find a better one.
> 
> I recently bought a house with a great dedicated home theater, including a Statement d2v. Everything has been working great until I started setting up a Harmony remote to control everything. As part of the setup, it ended up cycling through a lot of my inputs on the d2v, and now the center channel is completely mute on my UHD bluray player. Works fine on all other inputs, so it's not an issue with the speaker or lines - it's simply not sending signal to the center channel for my UHD player. I've tried everything I can think of to fix it - any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks - George.


Check the ARC config for that input. Perhaps has centre channel as "none"


----------



## georgejosephine

cvinfig said:


> Check the surround mode for that input. The AnthemLogic Music mode doesn’t send a signal to the center channel speaker.


That was it - thank you! Not sure how that setting got changed, but it's working so I'm not asking any questions!  Appreciate the assist - George


----------



## hodeyp

Have I bricked my D2v?

I have a non-3d D2v, it was running 3.10 of the firmware but I've been having issues with HDCP errors on one of my connected boxes (Sky HD). I was wondering if it was the firmware so tried to downgrade to 3.09 (Which is the latest version listed for non 3d processors). Before the update even started the processor switched off and now will not switch on at all. 

When I try to update the firmware now it says "Communication Error : Statement D2v not programmed"

Any suggestions for how to resolve this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

hodeyp said:


> Have I bricked my D2v?
> 
> I have a non-3d D2v, it was running 3.10 of the firmware but I've been having issues with HDCP errors on one of my connected boxes (Sky HD). I was wondering if it was the firmware so tried to downgrade to 3.09 (Which is the latest version listed for non 3d processors). Before the update even started the processor switched off and now will not switch on at all.
> 
> When I try to update the firmware now it says "Communication Error : Statement D2v not programmed"
> 
> Any suggestions for how to resolve this?


Get in touch with Anthem Tech Support and they can walk you through this. The first thing is to check your Serial connection to the D2v. If you are using a serial adapter other than the recommended Keyspan adapter you need to switch to the Keyspan adapter. I.e., your problem may really be nothing more than a communications error. It's also possible your problem may be in your Windows PC. If you have another one you can try, do that.

If you can get the D2v to power up, do a Reset Factory Defaults which will properly configure the Serial port on the D2v (among other things) and try again. (This is why you are supposed to do a Reset before each firmware install.)

If still no joy, there's a simple, Windows utility program Anthem can get you called Flash Eraser, which configures the programmable parts of the D2v to accept a new firmware install (along with erasing your current settings).
--Bob


----------



## hodeyp

Bob Pariseau said:


> Get in touch with Anthem Tech Support and they can walk you through this. The first thing is to check your Serial connection to the D2v. If you are using a serial adapter other than the recommended Keyspan adapter you need to switch to the Keyspan adapter. I.e., your problem may really be nothing more than a communications error. It's also possible your problem may be in your Windows PC. If you have another one you can try, do that.
> 
> If you can get the D2v to power up, do a Reset Factory Defaults which will properly configure the Serial port on the D2v (among other things) and try again. (This is why you are supposed to do a Reset before each firmware install.)
> 
> If still no joy, there's a simple, Windows utility program Anthem can get you called Flash Eraser, which configures the programmable parts of the D2v to accept a new firmware install (along with erasing your current settings).
> --Bob


ok great thanks! I'll get onto support now


----------



## Chin Taiy

*Can not connect to avm50v DSP not programmed*

I've got Flash Erase from Anthem

After executing Flash Erase, the system displays "Can not connect to avm50v DSP not programmed"

Any suggestions for how to resolve this?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Use the Keyspan USB to Serial adapter instead of any other model. Try with a different Windows PC. Talk again with Anthem. 
—Bob


----------



## Chin Taiy

After executing Flash Erase, executing version V3.09, the system asks "Please confirm the serial number of your Anthem product from the real panel lable near the power switch"
The system displays "Can not connect to avm50v DSP not programmed"

Is there any other serial number?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ No, unless you’ve had the main PC board in the unit replaced in some previous service. 
—Bob


----------



## tranle

Chin Taiy said:


> After executing Flash Erase, executing version V3.09, the system asks "Please confirm the serial number of your Anthem product from the real panel lable near the power switch"
> The system displays "Can not connect to avm50v DSP not programmed"
> 
> Is there any other serial number?


The last time I had to flash erase, I had to run it multiple time (x2) before I could put the firmware back on it.


----------



## Chin Taiy

Hi tranle




Excuse me, After executing Flash Erase ...Does the system display "Please confirm the serial number of your Anthem product from the real panel lable near the power switch"?


and Is your FlashEraser version v2.3?


----------



## RIppolito

*'No' audio on HDMI audio-only port from Sony UBP-X800*

I have a Sony UB-X800 blu-ray player and an Anthem AVM 50. The player has two HDMI outputs: HDMI1 sends video to the display, and HDMI2 sends audio to the Anthem.

Several weeks ago, I reported that I was unable to get any audio on my AVM 50 from the HDMI2 (audio only) connection from my blu-ray player. I have narrowed it down a bit, but I am stuck, and could use someone's help.

When I am playing a disc, there is no audio output, whether I set up the blu-ray player to output bitstream or PCM. The bizarre part is that when I hit the 'setup' button on the Anthem remote, as soon as the Anthem gets into the setup menu, the audio comes on. That implies the HDMI cable is good, and HDMI2 is outputting audio. When I exit the Anthem setup section, the audio immediately goes off.

Does anyone know what changes in the Anthem that would cause this behavior? Is there some handshaking that could cause a muting of the audio from the player, or does this sound like something in the Anthem? Is there some additional information that I could get that would help narrow this down?

Thank you in advance...
Ron


----------



## jclem

Questions regarding going to 4k: I currently have a D2v(which Bob P. helped me immensely with) which I plan to keep. I plan to get a JVC pj which has their version of 4k( eshift5). My sources for 4k are/will be Tivo Bolt, (Vudu, Netflix, etc) and eventually an Oppo 203. Is my best bet, for now, to run a new HDMI cable from Tivo to the PJ and then get an HDMI 'switcher/processor' like DVDO when I add the Oppo? I've had both the D2v and PJ for about 8 yrs and haven't done any upgrading since, so I'm having to re-learn everything. Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

jclem said:


> Questions regarding going to 4k: I currently have a D2v(which Bob P. helped me immensely with) which I plan to keep. I plan to get a JVC pj which has their version of 4k( eshift5). My sources for 4k are/will be Tivo Bolt, (Vudu, Netflix, etc) and eventually an Oppo 203. Is my best bet, for now, to run a new HDMI cable from Tivo to the PJ and then get an HDMI 'switcher/processor' like DVDO when I add the Oppo? I've had both the D2v and PJ for about 8 yrs and haven't done any upgrading since, so I'm having to re-learn everything. Thanks


You will need to bypass the D2v for 4K video as you've already figured out.

For the OPPO run Main HDMI to your 4K display, and run Audio HDMI to the D2v. The signal going to the D2v will be a black screen at 1080p, with your choice of audio output.

If the Tivo does not have two HDMI outputs, you'll need something to split 4K video and audio apart.

One option you might want to explore is running the Tivo through the OPPO 203 using its HDMI Input. That may or may not end up being more convenient for you than using a separate switcher for the video path. Video and Audio would come out of the 203 on its 2 HDMI outputs, just as when playing a disc.
--Bob


----------



## jclem

Bob Pariseau said:


> You will need to bypass the D2v for 4K video as you've already figured out.
> 
> For the OPPO run Main HDMI to your 4K display, and run Audio HDMI to the D2v. The signal going to the D2v will be a black screen at 1080p, with your choice of audio output.
> 
> If the Tivo does not have two HDMI outputs, you'll need something to split 4K video and audio apart.
> 
> One option you might want to explore is running the Tivo through the OPPO 203 using its HDMI Input. That may or may not end up being more convenient for you than using a separate switcher for the video path. Video and Audio would come out of the 203 on its 2 HDMI outputs, just as when playing a disc.
> --Bob


Hmm, intriguing. So, for now, run a new hdmi cable from Tivo to new PJ. Then when I get a 203, connect Tivo to Oppo and Oppo to PJ with the new hdmi cable, for video, and another hdmi from Oppo to D2v for audio? So, the Oppo sort of takes the place of a switcher?! That sounds like a 'winner' (if I understand you correctly.)
I just checked, the Tivo only has one HDMI.


----------



## MitchPope

jclem said:


> Hmm, intriguing. So, for now, run a new hdmi cable from Tivo to new PJ. Then when I get a 203, connect Tivo to Oppo and Oppo to PJ with the new hdmi cable, for video, and another hdmi from Oppo to D2v for audio? So, the Oppo sort of takes the place of a switcher?! That sounds like a 'winner' (if I understand you correctly.)
> I just checked, the Tivo only has one HDMI.


If your Tivo has optical/coax out, connect that to the D2v while your HDMI goes to the projector. Once you get the 203, you just need the single HDMI connection.


----------



## jclem

Thanks guys, that's helpful!!!


----------



## RIppolito

Can someone please tell me what 'auto dig' mode means when it shows up in the display on the front of the AVM 50? What audio stream is coming in from the source? I thought I had it programmed for PCM: shouldn't is show as that if that's what is coming in via the HDMI cable?

Thank you in advance...
Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RIppolito said:


> Can someone please tell me what 'auto dig' mode means when it shows up in the display on the front of the AVM 50? What audio stream is coming in from the source? I thought I had it programmed for PCM: shouldn't is show as that if that's what is coming in via the HDMI cable?
> 
> Thank you in advance...
> Ron


Auto Dig is a selection you make in the Setup > Source Setup for each Source definition. In the Source Setup, you specify both an Analog and a Digital audio input connection. Auto Dig means the Digital audio is used, whenever present. Otherwise the Analog audio is used. In either case, the audio is processed through the DSP -- so you can get Anthem ARC, for example.

This setting is pretty much obsolete at this point. It was included to handle some older cable TV boxes that would send out Digital audio only for certain stations, and would send Analog audio for the rest. Auto Dig let the Anthem handle that automatically for you.

If you want to make sure you are getting the digital (LPCM) audio you are expecting, change Setup > Source Setup for that Source to specify the audio is from the digital audio input -- the HDMI socket in your case.
--Bob


----------



## halfdeaf

*REC COPY issues on D2V*

I'm having a heck of a time getting the REC COPY function to work on my D2V - sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't...

I want to digitize my record collection using a Tascam DA-3000 recorder, which I placed in the analog TAPE loop of the D2V. My phono input is selected through the AUX input via unbalanced cables. Originally, I couldn't get the MAIN > REC function to work, but did get AUX > REC to function for a few weeks. This gave me output from my Phono input to both the TAPE and VCR analog outputs - I'm using the VCR output as a feed to my headphone amp.

The other day, the REC OUT function quit working. Playing around with it, I actually got the MAIN > REC function to work for awhile; I could get REC output from any of my analog sources (both balanced and unbalanced) and also a digital source on OPT1. Then it quit again (after turning the unit off, then back on). 

Now, if I push just the REC COPY button, the screen shows the selected source and MAIN > RECORD, so the function seems to be selected.
In the SOURCE SETUP menu, I have REC COPY:ALWAYS, so the function should ALWAYS be selected (?)

I just tried to see if I could set it up so that AUX > REC OUT would work again, and noticed this display on the screen when I push both the REC COPY and AUX input buttons :
VIDEO SOURCE SELECTED
SELECT AUDIO SOURCE

How do I "select audio source"? Pushing the AUX button a second time doesn't do it... 

In the SOURCE SETUP menu, all of the AUX digital selections are "NONE". It doesn't matter whether I have the input selected to Anlg-Dig or Anlg-DSP.

This is driving me nuts...


----------



## DTSes999

Nice to meet you all, I take a glance to this forum thread from time to time, finally, it is my terms to ask help from you guys. I currently got my AVM 50V3D, and use my power re-generator " ExactPower EP15a " for both AVM50V3D and 6 channels power amp " Classe-cav150 ", each time, when i power on my classe-cav150, the TV display will shut down for few seconds and come back to normal, after doing this few times, my 3D HDMI board suddenly does not work ( I guess it is called mezzanine board ), HDMI port 1 to port 4 and first HDMI output are completely dead, but HDMI port from 5 to 8 and second output are still working as they are, I was trying to remove this Mezzanine board for repairing, but was aware when this Mezzanine board is removed, HDMI 5 to 8 and HDMI second output does not have "audio" signal, so I final give up in case repairing was failed and damage this Mezzanine board completely, at least, now i can still use HDMI 5 to 8 and HDMI second output. my help is

1. Is there anyone buying this mezzanine board from Anthem? what the cost may be? it is may not be necessary, i could use HDMI splitter to pass through 3D video or 4K, but just wondering if it is worth buying new board to replace. 

2. Somehow my AVM50V3d cannot detect DTS-HD and Dolby-TrueHD from my HTPC, I have been tying to re-set all parameters of my potplayer, and even re-install my windows 10, but the result it the same, it can only do LPCM, it was working OK when HDMI port 1 to port 4 and first HDMI are still alive, any idea or solution I can try? and the strange thing is my "Popcorn A400 player is working OK, so I guess HDMI port from 5 to 8 can still work properly. 

3. This is annoying me, my TV speaker is also playing audio out at the same time when I use HDMI to watch movies or listen to the music, I suppose there must be a setting that i can turn it off, I have been reading manual for few times, but still cannot find the key, is there anyone be able to help me on this? 

Sorry for long words on this, really appreciate on your help


----------



## bigdaddy999

Hi. I'm trying to update my ARC on a Statement D2 using a windows 10 computer with a USB-serial adapter (Not Keyspan). I can see the D2 using the remote configuration utility program and can control it from the PC, power on/off, retrieve and save settings, etc, so I know that the adapter is communicating properly. I downloaded my .cal file for the unit and microphone. But when I try to run ARC, the PC cannot see the Anthem. I did notice that there were options for ARC configuration for the D2V or the AVM50, but not specifically for the D2. Any idea what is wrong?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

bigdaddy999 said:


> Hi. I'm trying to update my ARC on a Statement D2 using a windows 10 computer with a USB-serial adapter (Not Keyspan). I can see the D2 using the remote configuration utility program and can control it from the PC, power on/off, retrieve and save settings, etc, so I know that the adapter is communicating properly. I downloaded my .cal file for the unit and microphone. But when I try to run ARC, the PC cannot see the Anthem. I did notice that there were options for ARC configuration for the D2V or the AVM50, but not specifically for the D2. Any idea what is wrong?


Get the Keyspan adapter and use that one. The D2, even more than the D2v, is sensitive to how the adapter works.

You should have TWO files that get installed with the ARC app on your PC. One is the .cal file. The other is the ARC license for your D2. You can find that file on the original distribution disc for ARC that came with your D2. Or you can get it from the AnthemAV Support page. Like the .cal file, its file name will include the mic serial number and the D2's serial number.

If you installed ARC on your Windows 10 computer using the original install disc, I recommend you go into Windows Add/Remove programs and uninstall it. Then reboot the PC. Then download a fresh copy of the ARC installer from the AnthemAV Support page and install using THAT one instead. It's the same ARC program, but the installer on the original distribution disc likely is too old to work correctly for a Windows 10 install. When you have that downloaded install folder on your PC, check that you have the .cal file and the license file copied into the same spot as the installer's .exe file. When you run the install it will copy those two to the correct location in Windows > Program Files with the installed app on your PC.
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

DTSes999 said:


> Nice to meet you all, I take a glance to this forum thread from time to time, finally, it is my terms to ask help from you guys. I currently got my AVM 50V3D, and use my power re-generator " ExactPower EP15a " for both AVM50V3D and 6 channels power amp " Classe-cav150 ", each time, when i power on my classe-cav150, the TV display will shut down for few seconds and come back to normal, after doing this few times, my 3D HDMI board suddenly does not work ( I guess it is called mezzanine board ), HDMI port 1 to port 4 and first HDMI output are completely dead, but HDMI port from 5 to 8 and second output are still working as they are, I was trying to remove this Mezzanine board for repairing, but was aware when this Mezzanine board is removed, HDMI 5 to 8 and HDMI second output does not have "audio" signal, so I final give up in case repairing was failed and damage this Mezzanine board completely, at least, now i can still use HDMI 5 to 8 and HDMI second output. my help is
> 
> 1. Is there anyone buying this mezzanine board from Anthem? what the cost may be? it is may not be necessary, i could use HDMI splitter to pass through 3D video or 4K, but just wondering if it is worth buying new board to replace.
> 
> 2. Somehow my AVM50V3d cannot detect DTS-HD and Dolby-TrueHD from my HTPC, I have been tying to re-set all parameters of my potplayer, and even re-install my windows 10, but the result it the same, it can only do LPCM, it was working OK when HDMI port 1 to port 4 and first HDMI are still alive, any idea or solution I can try? and the strange thing is my "Popcorn A400 player is working OK, so I guess HDMI port from 5 to 8 can still work properly.
> 
> 3. This is annoying me, my TV speaker is also playing audio out at the same time when I use HDMI to watch movies or listen to the music, I suppose there must be a setting that i can turn it off, I have been reading manual for few times, but still cannot find the key, is there anyone be able to help me on this?
> 
> Sorry for long words on this, really appreciate on your help


You can not mute the audio output of the AVM. To keep your TV's speakers from playing, either disable them in the TV (in the audio settings for the HDMI Input on the TV you are feeding from the AVM) or turn the Volume all the way down on the TV.

For your problem with DTS-HD and TrueHD, check that you don't have secondary audio "mixing" enabled in your HTPC.

For the issue with the HDMI 1-4 inputs, you should probably get answers directly from Anthem Tech Support.
--Bob


----------



## bigdaddy999

Bob Pariseau said:


> Get the Keyspan adapter and use that one. The D2, even more than the D2v, is sensitive to how the adapter works.
> 
> You should have TWO files that get installed with the ARC app on your PC. One is the .cal file. The other is the ARC license for your D2. You can find that file on the original distribution disc for ARC that came with your D2. Or you can get it from the AnthemAV Support page. Like the .cal file, its file name will include the mic serial number and the D2's serial number.
> 
> If you installed ARC on your Windows 10 computer using the original install disc, I recommend you go into Windows Add/Remove programs and uninstall it. Then reboot the PC. Then download a fresh copy of the ARC installer from the AnthemAV Support page and install using THAT one instead. It's the same ARC program, but the installer on the original distribution disc likely is too old to work correctly for a Windows 10 install. When you have that downloaded install folder on your PC, check that you have the .cal file and the license file copied into the same spot as the installer's .exe file. When you run the install it will copy those two to the correct location in Windows > Program Files with the installed app on your PC.
> --Bob


THank you. I got the Keyspan and while the upload failed intially after ARC, I updated the drivers for the adapter, I grit my teeth and repowered the D2 and all is well. Thanks.


----------



## Mp0wer

Hello


I'm in the market for a D2v or 50v, I'm looking for 2-channel, I had a AVM30 and Oppo 95 long time ago and the 2-channel sound was what I loved.


My 2-channel right now consist of a Parasound P5 and Oppo 205 and it just doesn't sound as good as the AVM30 did.


Is the D2v worth it over the 50v for 2-channel analog?


Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mp0wer said:


> Hello
> 
> 
> I'm in the market for a D2v or 50v, I'm looking for 2-channel, I had a AVM30 and Oppo 95 long time ago and the 2-channel sound was what I loved.
> 
> 
> My 2-channel right now consist of a Parasound P5 and Oppo 205 and it just doesn't sound as good as the AVM30 did.
> 
> 
> Is the D2v worth it over the 50v for 2-channel analog?
> 
> 
> Thanks


In my opinion, yes. You might also want to look at Anthem's new line of STR, 2-channel electronics. They have a preamp, a power amp, and an integrated unit. I was a Beta Tester for the preamp and power amp, and think they are pretty nifty.

Also for your current setup, check three posts I made in the first 10 pages of the OPPO 205 Owner's thread. The first two are on considerations when directly connecting the player to a power amp. The third post (on page 10) is more general "Notes on Setting Up for Analog Audio Output". It's very unusual for someone to report they are not delighted with 2-channel out of the OPPO 205 directly into a power amp, so you may have a simple setup error.
--Bob


----------



## Mp0wer

Is there a way to get HDMI video when using analog direct ?


I'm trying to use Tidal on my computer, Oppo Dac and HDMI to my PC and Oppo xlr out to Anthem xlr balanced in.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mp0wer said:


> Is there a way to get HDMI video when using analog direct ?
> 
> 
> I'm trying to use Tidal on my computer, Oppo Dac and HDMI to my PC and Oppo xlr out to Anthem xlr balanced in.


If you are talking about the D2v or AVM 50v, yes. You can assign an unprocessed Analog input to pair with an HDMI video input. No problem. 

If you are responding to my suggestion about the STR electronics, they are audio only. You would bypass them for your HDMI video. 
—Bob


----------



## Mp0wer

Bob Pariseau said:


> If you are talking about the D2v or AVM 50v, yes. You can assign an unprocessed Analog input to pair with an HDMI video input. No problem.
> 
> If you are responding to my suggestion about the STR electronics, they are audio only. You would bypass them for your HDMI video.
> —Bob



Hi Bob


I'm talking about the 50v, I just had to setup the 2-channel input and it worked great...Thank you 


The analog section on the 50v is amazing, the Soundstage and Imaging is miles ahead of my Parasound P5. 

I had to check and see if my surrounds were on when the piano solo from "Diana Krall - The Boy From Ipanema" came on.

And that low noise floor  you can hear Diana Krall's tongue spit hitting the roof of her mouth.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mp0wer said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> 
> I'm talking about the 50v, I just had to setup the 2-channel input and it worked great...Thank you
> 
> 
> The analog section on the 50v is amazing, the Soundstage and Imaging is miles ahead of my Parasound P5.
> 
> I had to check and see if my surrounds were on when the piano solo from "Diana Krall - The Boy From Ipanema" came on.
> 
> And that low noise floor  you can hear Diana Krall's tongue spit hitting the roof of her mouth.


An extra step you might want to do is to check if you need to adjust the Analog Input levels on the AVM 50v to avoid clipping during the loudest content passages.

You can do that using the built-in real time input level meter, but to do that you will need to temporarily re-enable re-digitizing of the Analog audio input. I.e., set ANALOG-DSP instead of ANALOG-DIRECT.

Then you can adjust the Analog Input levels for your 2-channel input using the menu in Setup.

I used some Telarc CDs that I knew pushed the limits of full scale -- e.g., the Bach Fugue in D. You can also test with some HDCD discs. Since the Anthem does not decode HDCD it won't provide the normal, -6dB attenuation for those, so again you will be pushing full scale.

When I did this test with my D2v I found I had to set -1dB attenuation for the RCA inputs and -7dB attenuation for the XLR stereo input.

When viewing the realtime level graph what you are looking for is that the FIRST level of xxx lights up occasionally in the loudest passages, but the second level of XXX above it *NEVER* lights up.

The input attenuation you set up this way will still apply when you switch back to using ANALOG-DIRECT.
--Bob


----------



## Mp0wer

Hi Bob


Hows this look? Also should I lower the volume on the Oppo 205?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ That looks good.

The Volume in the OPPO 205 should be left at 100 (or FIXED, which does the same thing).

If you are also using the multi-channel outs from the OPPO, and have any speaker volume trims set in the OPPO, adjust them so that none are in positive territory. If you end up with a positive valued speaker trim in the OPPO after you first measure, simply lower ALL of them the same amount so that the largest is 0dB and the others are all in negative territory.

--Bob


----------



## bksm

Hi Bod,

I had Anthem D2V V.204 7yr ago. recently, I found some problem issue when I play Apple TV 4 and TV Box through Hdmi PCM 2.0 signal to D2V cannot output (e.g. PL ll)5.1speaker, only stereo sound come out. Can I update the firmware V.3.09 to solve problems? The firmware file how long time to update?

Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

bksm said:


> Hi Bod,
> 
> I had Anthem D2V V.204 7yr ago. recently, I found some problem issue when I play Apple TV 4 and TV Box through Hdmi PCM 2.0 signal to D2V cannot output (e.g. PL ll)5.1speaker, only stereo sound come out. Can I update the firmware V.3.09 to solve problems? The firmware file how long time to update?
> 
> Thanks


You should update to the current firmware and then see if you still have the problem. 

The update takes about 15 minutes.

Keep in mind you will need to Reset Factory Defaults before doing the firmware install. 

Save Settings first so you can restore them afterwards. 

—Bob


----------



## bksm

Hi Bob,

Thank you your quick reply

Do I need Anthem back up/restore software to back up current setting? Or back up to D2V?
The software support window 10?
Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

bksm said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> Thank you your quick reply
> 
> Do I need Anthem back up/restore software to back up current setting? Or back up to D2V?
> The software support window 10?
> Thanks


Assuming the firmware install completes normally, the settings you have saved in the Setup menu (Save User Settings) will still be there and can just be reloaded after the install completes. Simply Save them now -- to be sure they are up to date -- before doing the Reset prior to the Install.

The backup to a PC file was a safety measure, but Anthem has not updated those utilities in quite some time, and I'm not even sure they will work properly for you on Windows 10. It would not hurt to try, but like I said, you probably won't need it.

Or of course you can jot down your settings before doing the install. These would be the settings in Setup as well as the settings in the Video Source Adjust menu for each Source (press and hold "7" button while viewing each Source).

Just remember that you MUST do a Reset Factory Defaults *BEFORE* doing the install.
--Bob


----------



## bksm

Bob Pariseau said:


> Assuming the firmware install completes normally, the settings you have saved in the Setup menu (Save User Settings) will still be there and can just be reloaded after the install completes. Simply Save them now -- to be sure they are up to date -- before doing the Reset prior to the Install.
> 
> The backup to a PC file was a safety measure, but Anthem has not updated those utilities in quite some time, and I'm not even sure they will work properly for you on Windows 10. It would not hurt to try, but like I said, you probably won't need it.
> 
> Or of course you can jot down your settings before doing the install. These would be the settings in Setup as well as the settings in the Video Source Adjust menu for each Source (press and hold "7" button while viewing each Source).
> 
> Just remember that you MUST do a Reset Factory Defaults *BEFORE* doing the install.
> --Bob


I have wonder if i saved user setting by D2V setup menu , after do a reset factory defaults all user setting still keep in the D2v machine?
Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

bksm said:


> I have wonder if i saved user setting by D2V setup menu , after do a reset factory defaults all user setting still keep in the D2v machine?
> Thanks


Doing a Reset Factory Defaults in the Setup menu does not erase any Saved User or Installer Settings you have stashed.

So for example, if you want to get rid of all the "temporary" settings in the D2v -- things like the temporary speaker volume trims you can set with the buttons on the remote, or balance, or bass/treble, or etc. -- the FASTEST way to do that is:

1) Save User Settings
2) Reset Factory Defaults
3) Load Saved User Settings

This works because those "temporary" settings are not Saved in either the User or Installer settings memories.

---------------------------

Now if your D2v gets broken, and you have to resort to using the Flash Eraser utility to recover, that Flash Eraser *WILL* also erase the User and Installer Settings memories.
--Bob


----------



## ahanson3

I am a long time owner of Anthem D2v 3d processor. I am finally getting around to adding a 4k tv, and have a set up question. I know the D2v cannot be upgraded and will not process a 4k video signal. I know my Oppo 205 blu ray player has two HDMI outputs. HDMI Main can be used to send video directly to the tv and the second HDMI to send audio to the D2v. I assume this is the best connection. But am wondering if it is possible to set up a "through" configuration like 3d in the D2v to avoid video processing in the Anthem. I probably have answered my own question. Just use the multiple HDMI outputs in the Oppo 205 per above?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ahanson3 said:


> I am a long time owner of Anthem D2v 3d processor. I am finally getting around to adding a 4k tv, and have a set up question. I know the D2v cannot be upgraded and will not process a 4k video signal. I know my Oppo 205 blu ray player has two HDMI outputs. HDMI Main can be used to send video directly to the tv and the second HDMI to send audio to the D2v. I assume this is the best connection. But am wondering if it is possible to set up a "through" configuration like 3d in the D2v to avoid video processing in the Anthem. I probably have answered my own question. Just use the multiple HDMI outputs in the Oppo 205 per above?


Use dual HDMI cabling: Main HDMI out of the OPPO to your TV. Audio HDMI out of the OPPO to the D2v.
--Bob


----------



## RIppolito

*Is there an ARC guide for the AVM 50?*

Everybody,

It has been at least five years since I used my pc and set up ARC. Recently, I upgraded my amplifier, so I want to re-ARC my system.

Since my last upgrade, I have also upgraded from windows 7 to windows 10, and I am on another pc, so this is a re-do. To that end...

Does anyone have a pointer to the correct ARC correction sw for an AVM 50? On Anthem's update page, they have sw for an AVM 50v: is it the same sw?

Does anyone have a pointer to the procedure to do the upgrade? 

Thank you in advance...be well
Ron


----------



## RIppolito

RIppolito said:


> Everybody,
> 
> It has been at least five years since I used my pc and set up ARC. Recently, I upgraded my amplifier, so I want to re-ARC my system.
> 
> Since my last upgrade, I have also upgraded from windows 7 to windows 10, and I am on another pc, so this is a re-do. To that end...
> 
> Does anyone have a pointer to the correct ARC correction sw for an AVM 50? On Anthem's update page, they have sw for an AVM 50v: is it the same sw?
> 
> Does anyone have a pointer to the procedure to do the upgrade?
> 
> Thank you in advance...be well
> Ron


I installed the Anthem Room Correction sw. When it asked me which device I wanted to connect to, I chose AVM 50v (even though I have an AVM 50). 

After installation completed, I tried to connect, and it said it could not find a valid processor. In Device Manager, I saw com6 was the port, and it showed that the hw was working properly.

Next up, I tried the Video Settings editor, and it found the AVM 50: I was able to turn it on via the serial port adapter and cable, so I know those are functional.

Does anyone have a suggestion why the Anthem Room Correction cannot detect the processor, but the Video Settings editor does?

Thank you, in advance...
Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RIppolito said:


> I installed the Anthem Room Correction sw. When it asked me which device I wanted to connect to, I chose AVM 50v (even though I have an AVM 50).
> 
> After installation completed, I tried to connect, and it said it could not find a valid processor. In Device Manager, I saw com6 was the port, and it showed that the hw was working properly.
> 
> Next up, I tried the Video Settings editor, and it found the AVM 50: I was able to turn it on via the serial port adapter and cable, so I know those are functional.
> 
> Does anyone have a suggestion why the Anthem Room Correction cannot detect the processor, but the Video Settings editor does?
> 
> Thank you, in advance...
> Ron


How old is your installation disc for ARC? If it's old enough it won't work with current Windows. Download the ARC install kit from the AnthemAV web site. Go into Windows Add/Remove programs and uninstall the ARC you have now. Reboot and install the up to date copy you downloaded.

The question about which unit you intend to use with ARC only has to do with installing the correct Manual. The same install of original ARC works with all the units supporting original ARC.
--Bob


----------



## RIppolito

RIppolito said:


> I installed the Anthem Room Correction sw. When it asked me which device I wanted to connect to, I chose AVM 50v (even though I have an AVM 50).
> 
> After installation completed, I tried to connect, and it said it could not find a valid processor. In Device Manager, I saw com6 was the port, and it showed that the hw was working properly.
> 
> Next up, I tried the Video Settings editor, and it found the AVM 50: I was able to turn it on via the serial port adapter and cable, so I know those are functional.
> 
> Does anyone have a suggestion why the Anthem Room Correction cannot detect the processor, but the Video Settings editor does?
> 
> Thank you, in advance...
> Ron


Bob,

I downloaded what I thought was the most appropriate ARC zip file: it says it supports the AVM 50v processor when being installed, but it does not give an explicit option for the AVM 50. Should there be an explicit check box for AVM 50?

Ron

PS - I tried the Settings Backup v1.03 program to save my settings. It behaved similarly to the Anthem Correction program: it failed, saying that it could not detect a valid Anthem processor.


----------



## RIppolito

RIppolito said:


> Bob,
> 
> I downloaded what I thought was the most appropriate ARC zip file: it says it supports the AVM 50v processor when being installed, but it does not give an explicit option for the AVM 50. Should there be an explicit check box for AVM 50?
> 
> Ron
> 
> PS - I tried the Settings Backup v1.03 program to save my settings. It behaved similarly to the Anthem Correction program: it failed, saying that it could not detect a valid Anthem processor.


Bob,

The last time I successfully connected to my AVM 50 was in 2009, believe it or not. The version of ARC sw on the Anthem site is from February, 2013: it does not find my Anthem processor.

Could it be that it is looking for a different processor ID than the one that is in my Anthem?
Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau

The same version of ARC works for both the AVM 50v and the AVM 50. Originally the AVM 50 did not ship with ARC hardware installed. You had to buy an add on ARC kit. That’s why it isn’t mentioned. 

Your problem is likely an issue between your version of Windows and the Keyspan serial adapter. Do you have the latest driver for the Keyspan (for your current version of Windows) installed?

Your best bet at this point is to call Anthem Trch Support, as sorting this out is likely going to need some direct contact rather than posts here.
—Bob


----------



## AVfile

Also keep in mind the type of USB port you are using. People have reported problems using USB 3 (with USB 2 compatibility mode disabled in their BIOS settings). Better to use a true USB 2 port if your computer has one.


----------



## RIppolito

AVfile said:


> Also keep in mind the type of USB port you are using. People have reported problems using USB 3 (with USB 2 compatibility mode disabled in their BIOS settings). Better to use a true USB 2 port if your computer has one.


So I tried the program called LiveVideoSettingsEditor.exe that was in the AVM50 zip file I downloaded from the Anthem site. It was able to find my AVM50, I was able to power it on, and I was able to retrieve the video settings. I compared the retrieved video settings to those seen in the on-screen video setup menu, and they matched. That implies that my computer, USB/serial converter, and the cable work.

Brashly confident, I proceeded to the program called AnthemRoomCorrection.exe in the same zip file. When it tried to retrieve the settings, after 30 seconds, it failed and reported 'measurement procedure failed. Could not find a valid Anthem processor'. This is consistent with the error message from the SettingsBackup.exe program.
Ron


----------



## tranle

RIppolito said:


> So I tried the program called LiveVideoSettingsEditor.exe that was in the AVM50 zip file I downloaded from the Anthem site. It was able to find my AVM50, I was able to power it on, and I was able to retrieve the video settings. I compared the retrieved video settings to those seen in the on-screen video setup menu, and they matched. That implies that my computer, USB/serial converter, and the cable work.
> 
> Brashly confident, I proceeded to the program called AnthemRoomCorrection.exe in the same zip file. When it tried to retrieve the settings, after 30 seconds, it failed and reported 'measurement procedure failed. Could not find a valid Anthem processor'. This is consistent with the error message from the SettingsBackup.exe program.
> Ron



@RIppolito another thing to check when you have connection with ARC is to make sure that your keyspan is using COM between 1-4, I had problem with it before when it selected COM6.
And if you have download the ARC from Anthem website it does not contains the MIC calibration file so you also need to copy that into the install directory.


----------



## RIppolito

tranle said:


> @RIppolito another thing to check when you have connection with ARC is to make sure that your keyspan is using COM between 1-4, I had problem with it before when it selected COM6.
> And if you have download the ARC from Anthem website it does not contains the MIC calibration file so you also need to copy that into the install directory.


On a somewhat related note...

Can I use the same microphone to ARC more than one Anthem product? When I had the ARC kit installed in my AVM50, they sent me a microphone kit, and on the box are the serial numbers for the processor and the microphone. I bought a used MRX300, with ARC included. However, I did not get a second microphone.

How would I get a MIC calibration file for the MRX?
Ron


----------



## ST Dog

RIppolito said:


> How would I get a MIC calibration file for the MRX?
> Ron


You can download it from the website. Have to enter serial number from the mic and then download the cal file with ARC
https://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software.php

Yes you can use the same mic with multiple receivers/processors.


----------



## RIppolito

ST Dog said:


> You can download it from the website. Have to enter serial number from the mic and then download the cal file with ARC
> https://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software.php
> 
> Yes you can use the same mic with multiple receivers/processors.


ST Dog,

When I did that, id downloaded a calibration file that had the serial number of the mic as well as the AVM 50 in the name of the file...is that OK for use on the MRX 300?
Ron


----------



## ST Dog

RIppolito said:


> ST Dog,
> 
> When I did that, id downloaded a calibration file that had the serial number of the mic as well as the AVM 50 in the name of the file...is that OK for use on the MRX 300?
> Ron


As I said, the same mic (and matching cal file) can be used with all the Anthem receivers, preprocessors, and even the Perfect Base Kit.

And the AVM50 uses the same version of ARC as the MRX300, so you can even use the same installation of the software.

Just connect to the desired unit (AVM50 or MRX300).


----------



## RIppolito

I was able to recalibrate my AVM 50 by going back to a laptop that is running XP, and used the original USB / serial adapter. I am, so far, unable to get the ARC sw to work with a Prolific USB / serial adapter. I will continue to find a solution for using a W10 laptop: can someone please send me their adapter url? 

After the calibration, I got good results, but one thing confuses me. All the speaker crossovers are as follows...

Fronts - 40
Center - 55
Surrounds - 55
Sub - 120

Enclosed are my graphs. Does it make sense to you that my sub crossover should be so much higher than my other speakers?
Ron


----------



## RIppolito

Sorry abou that - I didn't know about the file size limit for the pictures...
Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RIppolito said:


> I was able to recalibrate my AVM 50 by going back to a laptop that is running XP, and used the original USB / serial adapter. I am, so far, unable to get the ARC sw to work with a Prolific USB / serial adapter. I will continue to find a solution for using a W10 laptop: can someone please send me their adapter url?
> 
> After the calibration, I got good results, but one thing confuses me. All the speaker crossovers are as follows...
> 
> Fronts - 40
> Center - 55
> Surrounds - 55
> Sub - 120
> 
> Enclosed are my graphs. Does it make sense to you that my sub crossover should be so much higher than my other speakers?
> Ron


The Sub value is not a problem. Think of the Sub Cutoff as the equivalent of Max EQ for the Sub. ARC will blend the crossovers correctly, but the Sub will also be corrected up to 120Hz, which is the top end for the LFE channel (the .1 of 5.1 or 7.1). 

—Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RIppolito said:


> Sorry abou that - I didn't know about the file size limit for the pictures...
> Ron


Those are some pretty impressive speakers, but still what ARC is giving you is a solution as if you did not have a Sub. Cutoffs that low for the mains mean the speaker has to produce bass well below where most speakers can do that AT VOLUME. 

I think the problem is that you’ve mistakenly left the internal Crossover enabled in your Sub. The top end of the Sub is rolling off too soon. Check the Sub, and disable its internal Crossover if possible, or crank it up to the highest frequency to get it out of the way as much as possible. Then re-Measure for ARC. 
—Bob


----------



## ST Dog

RIppolito said:


> I am, so far, unable to get the ARC sw to work with a Prolific USB / serial adapter.


I never could get ARC to work with a Prolific based adapter on Windows 8.1 either. Works great with the Tripp-Lite Keyspan USA-19HS.


----------



## nickwin

Can anyone comment on the HDMI stability of the the d2v 3d? How does it compare to a modern design like the avm60 in term switching speed, drop outs and general hdmi stability?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

nickwin said:


> Can anyone comment on the HDMI stability of the the d2v 3d? How does it compare to a modern design like the avm60 in term switching speed, drop outs and general hdmi stability?


I continue to use my D2v / 3D in preference to my AVM 60. I haven't noticed a significant difference between them as far as HDMI robustness -- for signals they both can handle.

I was a Beta tester for both, and the D2v / 3D had more HDMI teething pains before it shipped, but not surprising given it is also a video processor
--Bob


----------



## nickwin

Bob Pariseau said:


> I continue to use my D2v / 3D in preference to my AVM 60. I haven't noticed a significant difference between them as far as HDMI robustness -- for signals they both can handle.
> 
> I was a Beta tester for both, and the D2v / 3D had more HDMI teething pains before it shipped, but not surprising given it is also a video processor
> --Bob


Excellent news, thanks for the reply.


----------



## Prophizee

So I have weird question...I have paradigm 95fs c55 center monitor v7 7s as my surrounds atom v7 as my rears and cl160 as my Atmos 4 of them and an ultracube 12 as my setup. When I run arc my crossovers are coming up a bit weird 
80 for fronts 
80 for center 
90 for surrounds
80 for rears 
80 for Atmos a
170 for sub 
But on the anthem setup menu the sub is set for 120
This doesn't sound right shouldn't the 95 be around 40 or 60. I've run arc many times with same results. Thanks for any advice 

Btw receiver is 1120 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Prophizee said:


> So I have weird question...I have paradigm 95fs c55 center monitor v7 7s as my surrounds atom v7 as my rears and cl160 as my Atmos 4 of them and an ultracube 12 as my setup. When I run arc my crossovers are coming up a bit weird
> 80 for fronts
> 80 for center
> 90 for surrounds
> 80 for rears
> 80 for Atmos a
> 170 for sub
> But on the anthem setup menu the sub is set for 120
> This doesn't sound right shouldn't the 95 be around 40 or 60. I've run arc many times with same results. Thanks for any advice
> 
> Btw receiver is 1120
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


On the face of it, these all look perfectly normal. It is typical for the Sub Crossover value (Uploaded into the 1120) to differ from the Sub Cutoff value (in ARC’s Targets) as they represent 2 different things. Cutoff is the upper end of correction for the Sub. Crossover is the upper end roll off point of the Sub. 

A Crossover of 80Hz for center means ARC expects Center to contribute important audio down to 40Hz. 

To tell if any of this is a problem you’d need to capture and post your ARC speaker charts and Targets window. 
—Bob


----------



## Prophizee

I'll post up my results by mid day Bob thank you so much 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## AVfile

nickwin said:


> Excellent news, thanks for the reply.



After using the “through” mode of the video bypass I’ve gone back to using the video processor in mine. It’s just more stable on the output and you get the nice overlay text on screen.

I still have to use “through” mode for occasional 3D and Sony “Mastered in 4K” blu-rays but this mode tends to crash my projector lately. It didn’t used to do this but now my PJ will shut down when I put the 3D disc in and the handshake happens. I have to restart the PJ with the 3D blu-Ray already playing, then it stays up solid for the duration of the title.


----------



## Prophizee

Here are my read out from arc bob












































Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Prophizee

Bob Pariseau said:


> On the face of it, these all look perfectly normal. It is typical for the Sub Crossover value (Uploaded into the 1120) to differ from the Sub Cutoff value (in ARC’s Targets) as they represent 2 different things. Cutoff is the upper end of correction for the Sub. Crossover is the upper end roll off point of the Sub.
> 
> A Crossover of 80Hz for center means ARC expects Center to contribute important audio down to 40Hz.
> 
> To tell if any of this is a problem you’d need to capture and post your ARC speaker charts and Targets window.
> —Bob


Hey bob sorry for the delay but here our my arc files. Thanks again for all the info and help









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Mp0wer

I've had my 50v for a couple of months now and I love it.



I'm having a few problems which lies with my computer, I can't get into the BIOS screen, I will get a black screen until Windows 7 loads.


The other problem is the snap, crackle, pops when stopping, playing, rewind or forwarding a movie on my computer. 



I didn't have these problems with my Denon AVR 4311CI


Anyone have any suggestions ?


----------



## audit13

Mp0wer said:


> I've had my 50v for a couple of months now and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having a few problems which lies with my computer, I can't get into the BIOS screen, I will get a black screen until Windows 7 loads.
> 
> 
> The other problem is the snap, crackle, pops when stopping, playing, rewind or forwarding a movie on my computer.
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't have these problems with my Denon AVR 4311CI
> 
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions ?


I have had my HTPC connected to an mrx500, mrx310, and mrx520 with no such sounds. 

Is the HTPC's audio and video connected directly to the Anthem via HDMI?


----------



## Mp0wer

audit13 said:


> I have had my HTPC connected to an mrx500, mrx310, and mrx520 with no such sounds.
> 
> 
> 
> Is the HTPC's audio and video connected directly to the Anthem via HDMI?




Yes HDMI

Another problem I’m having is Windows 7 is saying 1280 x 720p is the recommended resolution , it should be 1920 x 1080p. 

I think it might be a driver issue, but I didn’t have this issue with my Denon Receiver.


----------



## audit13

Mp0wer said:


> Yes HDMI
> 
> Another problem I’m having is Windows 7 is saying 1280 x 720p is the recommended resolution , it should be 1920 x 1080p.
> 
> I think it might be a driver issue, but I didn’t have this issue with my Denon Receiver.


Does your HTPC have more than 1 HDMI output?

My HTPC has an nVidia 1050Ti card. I run an HDMI cable between the HTPC and TV. I also use a DVI-to-HDMI adapter to run an HDMI cable from the HTPC to my receiver. In windows, I set the TV as the main display, extend the display to the receiver, select the receiver as the sound device, and select the speaker layout as 7.1.

Running the HDMI cable directly to the TV will ensure that you can see the boot screen in order to press the appropriate key to enter the BIOS screen. This will also ensure that the HTPC is picking up the correct EDID in order to run the TV at its max resolution.


----------



## Mp0wer

audit13 said:


> Does your HTPC have more than 1 HDMI output?
> 
> 
> 
> My HTPC has an nVidia 1050Ti card. I run an HDMI cable between the HTPC and TV. I also use a DVI-to-HDMI adapter to run an HDMI cable from the HTPC to my receiver. In windows, I set the TV as the main display, extend the display to the receiver, select the receiver as the sound device, and select the speaker layout as 7.1.
> 
> 
> 
> Running the HDMI cable directly to the TV will ensure that you can see the boot screen in order to press the appropriate key to enter the BIOS screen. This will also ensure that the HTPC is picking up the correct EDID in order to run the TV at its max resolution.




I’m using 1 HDMI cable from computer to 50v, I’m using the onboard intel integrated graphics.


----------



## audit13

Mp0wer said:


> I’m using 1 HDMI cable from computer to 50v, I’m using the onboard intel integrated graphics.


Which cpu is in your computer? Does the computer have a DVI output too?


----------



## Mp0wer

audit13 said:


> Which cpu is in your computer? Does the computer have a DVI output too?




It’s an Asus Sabertooth Z77, no DVI, but I do have some graphic cards laying around I can try, the reason for not using a dedicated card was I was having problems with AMD and Nvidia drivers and my computer waking up from sleep mode.


----------



## audit13

Mp0wer said:


> It’s an Asus Sabertooth Z77, no DVI, but I do have some graphic cards laying around I can try, the reason for not using a dedicated card was I was having problems with AMD and Nvidia drivers and my computer waking up from sleep mode.


Motherboard looks like it has a display port. In this case, run a display port to HDMI cable to the receiver.

Using two connections, one from the HTPC to the TV and one from the HTPC to the Anthem, will ensure that the you can switch inputs on the TV or Anthem without the HTPC dropping the TV's EDID, you'll see the BIOS screen from a cold boot, and you can bitstream TrueHD and DTS-HD MA. I've been doing it this way since I purchased my first Onkyo receiver which was about a decade ago.


----------



## Mp0wer

audit13 said:


> Motherboard looks like it has a display port. In this case, run a display port to HDMI cable to the receiver.
> 
> 
> 
> Using two connections, one from the HTPC to the TV and one from the HTPC to the Anthem, will ensure that the you can switch inputs on the TV or Anthem without the HTPC dropping the TV's EDID, you'll see the BIOS screen from a cold boot, and you can bitstream TrueHD and DTS-HD MA. I've been doing it this way since I purchased my first Onkyo receiver which was over a decade ago.




Hmmm sounds interesting, will the DisplayPort to HDMI carry the True HD and DTS-HD MA formats?


----------



## audit13

Mp0wer said:


> Hmmm sounds interesting, will the DisplayPort to HDMI carry the True HD and DTS-HD MA formats?


It should but, if it doesn't for you, use the display port connection to connect the TV and use the motherboard's HDMI connection to pass audio to the Anthem.


----------



## Mp0wer

audit13 said:


> It should but, if it doesn't for you, use the display port connection to connect the TV and use the motherboard's HDMI connection to pass audio to the Anthem.




Yea I’ll try the DisplayPort to HDMI to my Epson projector and run HDMI to Anthem.

Is there anything I need to change in my graphic settings?


----------



## audit13

Mp0wer said:


> Yea I’ll try the DisplayPort to HDMI to my Epson projector and run HDMI to Anthem.
> 
> Is there anything I need to change in my graphic settings?


I suggest doing this:

Power off the Epson, Anthem, and HTPC.

Connect the Epson to the display port. Connect the Anthem to the HTPC's HDMI port.

Power up the HTPC. The HTPC should pick up the Epson's EDID and set the Windows desktop at the Epson's max resolution.

Power up the Anthem. Windows should automatically detect the Anthem. Go to the display properties and extend the display to the Anthem.

Select the Anthem as the sound device. Select the appropriate speaker configuration.

Hopefully, your HTPC will now bitstream HD audio and pops/crackling will be a thing of the past.


----------



## RIppolito

Back in June, I posted my ARC results (post 45051). Since then, I have been listening to my system, and I think there is a problem.

I think the bass is too strong. Voices, particularly male voices, are a little too chesty. Similarly, music has a little too much bass emphasis.

I would like to understand which way you'd recommend that I adjust this. Should I...

- use the ARC application
- adjust the crossovers manually
- something else that I don't know about

I am very open to your suggestions in this area. Thank you, in advance...
Ron


----------



## audit13

RIppolito said:


> Back in June, I posted my ARC results (post 45051). Since then, I have been listening to my system, and I think there is a problem.
> 
> I think the bass is too strong. Voices, particularly male voices, are a little too chesty. Similarly, music has a little too much bass emphasis.
> 
> I would like to understand which way you'd recommend that I adjust this. Should I...
> 
> - use the ARC application
> - adjust the crossovers manually
> - something else that I don't know about
> 
> I am very open to your suggestions in this area. Thank you, in advance...
> Ron


Did you have a chance to follow the advice from post 45053?


----------



## Stevetd

Help!! LOL, lightning hit the neighbor's house yesterday. I thought I was in the clear until I went down and fired up my downstairs HT to try out some freshly ripped videos. It seems I cannot get video output from the D2v. I have switched HDMI outs from the bottom board(2D) to top(3D) and still no video. I'm not getting any OSD from the d2v either. The TV's menu will display so that's why I think it's the D2v. Any suggestions and/or tips would be appreciated? I wasn’t really ready to upgrade this system as I just moved to 4K upstairs.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Stevetd said:


> Help!! LOL, lightning hit the neighbor's house yesterday. I thought I was in the clear until I went down and fired up my downstairs HT to try out some freshly ripped videos. It seems I cannot get video output from the D2v. I have switched HDMI outs from the bottom board(2D) to top(3D) and still no video. I'm not getting any OSD from the d2v either. The TV's menu will display so that's why I think it's the D2v. Any suggestions and/or tips would be appreciated? I wasn’t really ready to upgrade this system as I just moved to 4K upstairs.


Odds are the D2v is going to need factory service. But there have been cases (primarily with the prior, D2, model) where people have manage to recover from a power surge related failure by re-installing the D2v firmware.

Do a Reset Factory Defaults on the D2v (using the Front Panel Display to navigate through the menus), and try a re-install of the firmware. The pictures of the Menus in the Manual can be useful when trying to navigate using the Front Panel Display. You'll need to use the Arrow buttons to change the "No" to the "Yes" to confirm the Reset.
--Bob


----------



## Stevetd

Bob Pariseau said:


> Odds are the D2v is going to need factory service. But there have been cases (primarily with the prior, D2, model) where people have manage to recover from a power surge related failure by re-installing the D2v firmware.
> 
> Do a Reset Factory Defaults on the D2v (using the Front Panel Display to navigate through the menus), and try a re-install of the firmware. The pictures of the Menus in the Manual can be useful when trying to navigate using the Front Panel Display. You'll need to use the Arrow buttons to change the "No" to the "Yes" to confirm the Reset.
> --Bob


Thanks Bob. Hopefully a reset and re-install will do the trick. I haven't done any tinkering with this unit in so long it's going to be a whole new "adventure" haha.


----------



## MaestroGuy

*D2v 3D Balance Issue?*

Hello, I did a search but found nothing relative to the issue I'm experiencing, so thought I'd ask about it. I am having what I think is an issue with the balance on my D2v 3D. I say I think, because it may be a setting that I am unaware of that is causing the problem, so it may not be an issue, just an improper setting.
What’s happening is that when I move the balance control fully left or right, I can still hear content coming from the other speaker. It isn’t loud, but it is there and audible from a couple of feet away from the supposedly silenced speaker. This happens when using either digital or analog sources. I’ve tried scrolling through the various sound modes and only when I set the mode to mono or mono academy, does the balance seem to work properly and I get silence from one channel or another, which is odd because mono is supposed to only be one channel.

So, when other D2v 3D users move their balance either full left or full right, does sound still come from the opposite speaker? If so, why is this? If not, is there a setting I need to change to avoid hearing content from both speakers when the balance control is either full left or full right? Any help is greatly appreciated!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ What type of content are you playing to test this, and what’s your speaker configuration?

For example, if you have a 5.1 speaker configuration and are testing with DTS 7.1 content, some Side Surround content will be steered to the Front speaker on the same side, due to the difference in expected positioning of the Side speakers. 

Try testing with Stereo content (as from a CD disc) with the surround sound Mode set to None or Stereo. 
—Bob


----------



## MaestroGuy

*D2v 3D Balance Issue?*



Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ What type of content are you playing to test this, and what’s your speaker configuration?
> 
> For example, if you have a 5.1 speaker configuration and are testing with DTS 7.1 content, some Side Surround content will be steered to the Front speaker on the same side, due to the difference in expected positioning of the Side speakers.
> 
> Try testing with Stereo content (as from a CD disc) with the surround sound Mode set to None or Stereo.
> —Bob


Hello Bob, My speaker configuration is 5.1. I tested with a stereo CD and the surround mode set to stereo and the issue is still the same. Any other suggestions? Thank you!


----------



## gerard1meehan

*Arc*

Question for the group.

Would setting one of my ARC corrections in my D2v to two front speakers and a sub. (as opposed to a 7.1 configuration) Allow more processing power and room corrections leading theoretically to better sound for two channel audio?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

gerard1meehan said:


> Question for the group.
> 
> Would setting one of my ARC corrections in my D2v to two front speakers and a sub. (as opposed to a 7.1 configuration) Allow more processing power and room corrections leading theoretically to better sound for two channel audio?


Potentially yes. However, if you don't see any issues in the Sub and LF/RF charts in your 7.1 solution, there's nothing left to improve for your stereo playback. Just make sure you aren't telling the D2v to expand your stereo content into the 7.1 speakers -- i.e. use Stereo for the Surround Sound Mode so you get 2.1 speaker output.
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

MaestroGuy said:


> Hello Bob, My speaker configuration is 5.1. I tested with a stereo CD and the surround mode set to stereo and the issue is still the same. Any other suggestions? Thank you!


Missed your post, so a bit late replying.

If you've not done so already, the next step is to make sure you are not getting confused by some "temporary" settings you've forgotten about. These are set via the buttons on the remote as opposed to the setup menu, and they are remembered per audio format -- so different for stereo content than for multi-channel or Bitstream.

To clear ALL of the "temporary" settings at once do this:

1) In Setup, Save User Settings
2) Reload Factory Defaults
3) Reload Saved User Settings

The "temporary" settings are not saved, and so this process resets them all back to default values.

If this doesn't fix it for you, you should probably get in touch with Anthem Tech Support.
--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Is there a way to download my ARC measurements/settings from the D2v unit itself? Laptop lost it's hard drive that they were saved on.


----------



## adri

I have a D2V without the 3D board, running the latest firmware v3.09, available on the anthem site.
I have read newer beta versions v3.09L or v3.10RC are the latest versions that can be installed on my D2V, correcting some problems with DTS decoding etc.
The current version v3.10 from the anthem site, can only be used on the newer D2V with the 3D board.

Unfortunately the beta versions v3.09L or v3.10RC are no longer available via anthem. :frown:
Does anyone still have a copy of these firmware versions, willing to share them with me?

Thanks a lot.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

barhoram said:


> Is there a way to download my ARC measurements/settings from the D2v unit itself? Laptop lost it's hard drive that they were saved on.


The Measurements are never stored in the D2v, so they are lost. Same with the Targets settings. I don't know of a way to extract the room correction parameters (the ARC solution itself) from the D2v.

--Bob


----------



## AVfile

adri said:


> I have a D2V without the 3D board, running the latest firmware v3.09, available on the anthem site.
> 
> I have read newer beta versions v3.09L or v3.10RC are the latest versions that can be installed on my D2V, correcting some problems with DTS decoding etc.
> 
> The current version v3.10 from the anthem site, can only be used on the newer D2V with the 3D board.
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately the beta versions v3.09L or v3.10RC are no longer available via anthem. :frown:
> 
> Does anyone still have a copy of these firmware versions, willing to share them with me?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot.




Yes, shame that Anthem never released these fixes officially for the non-3D processors. I’ll try to dig up the beta files and PM you.


----------



## barhoram

Can any AVM-50 with an Anthem microphone run ARC? or does it require a version produced after a certain date with correct hardware? Trying to run ARC on a friends AVM50. Software Version 1.33--wich seems to be the latest version on the Anthem site. When I scroll through the source setup there is no selection for Room Correction On/Off like there is on my D2v?? Is it possible he can't use it??


----------



## RIppolito

barhoram said:


> Can any AVM-50 with an Anthem microphone run ARC? or does it require a version produced after a certain date with correct hardware? Trying to run ARC on a friends AVM50. Software Version 1.33--wich seems to be the latest version on the Anthem site. When I scroll through the source setup there is no selection for Room Correction On/Off like there is on my D2v?? Is it possible he can't use it??


My AVM-50 was manufactured without the extra processor board included to do the room correction. I had to send it to Anthem to get the extra board installed. Your friend can check with his Anthem rep, or ask Nick (Anthem resource that is a frequent contributor to this thread) if Anthem still offers that upgrade.
Ron


----------



## Bob Pariseau

barhoram said:


> Can any AVM-50 with an Anthem microphone run ARC? or does it require a version produced after a certain date with correct hardware? Trying to run ARC on a friends AVM50. Software Version 1.33--wich seems to be the latest version on the Anthem site. When I scroll through the source setup there is no selection for Room Correction On/Off like there is on my D2v?? Is it possible he can't use it??


The original AVM-50 units required a hardware upgrade to run ARC. The kit, was about $400 at the time, but may not still be available. Anthem Tech Support can help you figure this out.

Once the kit is installed, you then also need to re-install the firmware, which is when the new hardware gets recognized and the ARC option appears.
--Bob


----------



## Mp0wer

I’m curious what people are using for an aftermarket power cord for there Anthems ?


----------



## AVfile

Mp0wer said:


> I’m curious what people are using for an aftermarket power cord for there Anthems ?



Nominally I use the stock cords, but I hate two-prongers for heavier cords as they tend to sag. So I “upgrade” to plain Belden 3-prongers for better grip and shielding only. I don’t obsess over exotic brands.


----------



## Mp0wer

AVfile said:


> Nominally I use the stock cords, but I hate two-prongers for heavier cords as they tend to sag. So I “upgrade” to plain Belden 3-prongers for better grip and shielding only. I don’t obsess over exotic brands.




I really don’t obsess over power cords either. 

I have tried a few PC’s and most gave a nice blacker background but also came with a veil sound.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It's hard to believe the last three feet of power connection have any significant effect compared to the Home Depot wiring in your walls, and the couple miles of squirrel-chewed transmission line cable between your place and the power substation. The stock cord carries the necessary amperage safely, with no loss of voltage. That's what you need.
--Bob


----------



## Stevetd

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ It's hard to believe the last three feet of power connection have any significant effect compared to the Home Depot wiring in your walls, and the couple miles of squirrel-chewed transmission line cable between your place and the power substation. The stock cord carries the necessary amperage safely, with no loss of voltage. That's what you need.
> 
> --Bob




Yes, but can you describe the sound like a fine wine with the stock power cord LOL?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Stevetd said:


> Yes, but can you describe the sound like a fine wine with the stock power cord LOL?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If looped properly, an exotic power cord CAN be good for lifting the pail.
--Bob


----------



## bohai

Hi all. D2V owner here. My remotes have been in a drawer for the past 5 years and we are preparing to move houses. When I retrieved the remotes (2) they are extremely sticky. What caused this and can it be removed? Sorry if this is the wrong forum but I find this site extremely hard to navigate.


----------



## audit13

bohai said:


> Hi all. D2V owner here. My remotes have been in a drawer for the past 5 years and we are preparing to move houses. When I retrieved the remotes (2) they are extremely sticky. What caused this and can it be removed? Sorry if this is the wrong forum but I find this site extremely hard to navigate.


Maybe the plastic is breaking down?

You can try removing the stickiness with rubber cement thinner, Goo Gone, pure isopropyl alcohol, or nail polish remover.


----------



## vivekg

Hi,

I am hoping someone here might be able to help. After almost a decade of owning the Statement D2 it has developed an odd problem. If I turn it off it will turn on after a few minutes and be on input CD. If I am watching anything it will also switch to input CD after a few minutes. This of course repeats if I switch the input back to where I was supposed to be. 

Contacted support and they suggested looking to se if I accidentally had any timers set and to reset the settings to factory. Did both and no luck. 

Any suggestions or thoughts on what could be causing this? Fuse blown, short or maybe a battery that requires replacing?

Thanks,
Vivek


----------



## Bob Pariseau

vivekg said:


> Hi,
> 
> I am hoping someone here might be able to help. After almost a decade of owning the Statement D2 it has developed an odd problem. If I turn it off it will turn on after a few minutes and be on input CD. If I am watching anything it will also switch to input CD after a few minutes. This of course repeats if I switch the input back to where I was supposed to be.
> 
> Contacted support and they suggested looking to se if I accidentally had any timers set and to reset the settings to factory. Did both and no luck.
> 
> Any suggestions or thoughts on what could be causing this? Fuse blown, short or maybe a battery that requires replacing?
> 
> Thanks,
> Vivek


If you are using a programmable remote, set it aside and use just the normal device remotes for a while and see if the problem goes away. If so, your setup for the programable remote is likely misconfigured so that it is sending the bogus command to the D2 when you are doing stuff with other devices.

If you are using the regular remotes, turn off the D2 and put its remote in a drawer. If that fixes the problem then the regular remote for the D2 may have a stuck button.
--Bob


----------



## vivekg

Bob Pariseau said:


> If you are using a programmable remote, set it aside and use just the normal device remotes for a while and see if the problem goes away. If so, your setup for the programable remote is likely misconfigured so that it is sending the bogus command to the D2 when you are doing stuff with other devices.
> 
> If you are using the regular remotes, turn off the D2 and put its remote in a drawer. If that fixes the problem then the regular remote for the D2 may have a stuck button.
> --Bob


Hi Bob,

Thanks for your idea. I had thought that might be a possibility so tried it with no remotes in the room. Turned off everything and powere off the anthem with front panel. It flipped itself on shortly afterwards. Also disconnected the HDMI cable in case something else was sending it a signal over HDMI, but it still turned on, definitely seems like it is something in the system, but will probably disconnect it from everything and test it by itself soon. 

Vivek


----------



## Bob Pariseau

vivekg said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> Thanks for your idea. I had thought that might be a possibility so tried it with no remotes in the room. Turned off everything and powere off the anthem with front panel. It flipped itself on shortly afterwards. Also disconnected the HDMI cable in case something else was sending it a signal over HDMI, but it still turned on, definitely seems like it is something in the system, but will probably disconnect it from everything and test it by itself soon.
> 
> Vivek


With the unit unplugged. Press the front panel buttons for the Sources and for Power a few times in case you’ve got a stuck button. 

Next step would likely be a reinstall of the firmware. 

And then factory service if still broken. 
—Bob


----------



## doubleroll

bohai said:


> Hi all. D2V owner here. My remotes have been in a drawer for the past 5 years and we are preparing to move houses. When I retrieved the remotes (2) they are extremely sticky. What caused this and can it be removed? Sorry if this is the wrong forum but I find this site extremely hard to navigate.




Same with the 2 remotes I have. I just use a Harmony remote now...apparently this is a common occurrence with these remotes.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Renoy

*MRX720- 5.1 set up*

Hi,

During ARC2 'quick measure' and 'measure' run for front left and right speakers, the sensitivity calculation displayed on ARC was 68db (with mic at MLP). Is it required to increase this value to 75db prior to actual measurement. What is the correct method to make it 75db. 

Whether sensitivity reading can be used for matching the levels of main speaker and sub ?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Mp0wer

Should the microphone for ARC be placed vertical or horizontal ?


This is for a 50v


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mp0wer said:


> Should the microphone for ARC be placed vertical or horizontal ?
> 
> 
> This is for a 50v


Vertical — tip pointed straight up at the ceiling and positioned at seated ear height. 

The mic is half omni directional meaning it hears audio from the entire hemisphere above the mic tip. That’s why you don’t want to position the tip where that hemisphere might be blocked by a high seat back, for example, or a wall that’s too close. 
—Bob


----------



## kzsolt

*Latest D2V firmware*



AVfile said:


> Yes, shame that Anthem never released these fixes officially for the non-3D processors. I’ll try to dig up the beta files and PM you.





I recently bought a second hand D2V and looking for the latest firmware too. 

I would appreciate if you or someone colud PM me as well. Thank you!


----------



## AVfile

kzsolt said:


> I recently bought a second hand D2V and looking for the latest firmware too.
> 
> I would appreciate if you or someone colud PM me as well. Thank you!




PM sent.


----------



## kzsolt

AVfile said:


> PM sent.


Thanks very much!


----------



## Carlton Bale

Can you please send me the latest beta firmware as well? I didn’t realize I didn’t have the latest.


----------



## EricE

kzsolt said:


> I recently bought a second hand D2V and looking for the latest firmware too.
> 
> I would appreciate if you or someone colud PM me as well. Thank you!





AVfile said:


> PM sent.


My D2V has been going strong for the past 6 years that I've had it.
A few little blips but nothing that a reboot didn't fix.

AVfile could you also please PM me that beta firmware as I think I'll keep the D2V for the long haul even if I move it out of the dedicated HT and into the upstairs family room.


----------



## EricE

Does anybody notice a very very faint high pitched whine from the front display when on?

I have it set to dim to black after adjustments but I noticed the sound when the display was on.
From maybe a foot or two away you can't hear it. Just if you put your ear up close.

Should I be worried that the display is going to burn out or something?

Everything else is fine and all of the pixels are working.


----------



## doubleroll

D2V with Harmony setup not able to set input, eg, DVD2 or SAT2. Anyone else have this issue and found a work around? Also, the setup menu requires a long press and doesn’t with with Harmony either, any ideas other than using the original remote or my old URC? TIA...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Bob Pariseau

doubleroll said:


> D2V with Harmony setup not able to set input, eg, DVD2 or SAT2. Anyone else have this issue and found a work around? Also, the setup menu requires a long press and doesn’t with with Harmony either, any ideas other than using the original remote or my old URC? TIA...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


There are 3 button push codes for direct selection of each Source, including things like DVD2. See Appendix A of the manual. If those aren't already included in the Device definition for the D2v in your Harmony setup, you can add them.

Harmony typically adds separate button definitions for normal push and long push versions. So for example "7" for the digit, and "Video" for the long push of "7" to get into the Video Source Adjust menu. Go into the set of pre-defined buttons in the D2v Device definition and you should be able to find the long push version to get into the Setup menu. You'll need to assign that to one of the button choices on the Harmony.

(Each button can act in one of 3 ways when it is pressed and held: Send once, Send multiple times (as for Volume Up/Down), or Send a Long Push. The difference is built into the Harmony definition for each button.)
--Bob


----------



## doubleroll

Bob Pariseau said:


> There are 3 button push codes for direct selection of each Source, including things like DVD2. See Appendix A of the manual. If those aren't already included in the Device definition for the D2v in your Harmony setup, you can add them.
> 
> 
> 
> Harmony typically adds separate button definitions for normal push and long push versions. So for example "7" for the digit, and "Video" for the long push of "7" to get into the Video Source Adjust menu. Go into the set of pre-defined buttons in the D2v Device definition and you should be able to find the long push version to get into the Setup menu. You'll need to assign that to one of the button choices on the Harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> (Each button can act in one of 3 ways when it is pressed and held: Send once, Send multiple times (as for Volume Up/Down), or Send a Long Push. The difference is built into the Harmony definition for each button.)
> 
> --Bob




Very helpful as always...Thanks very much!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## AVfile

AVfile said:


> The problem is when only the Main output is connected to the AVM50v3D (i.e. normal configuration) with the Anthem video processor in Passthrough mode. If I use Main and Audio outputs in a split configuration it works as expected.
> 
> Have you tried the 203 on your D2v3D in normal configuration?
> 
> Also like the other fellow stated, audio starts working when entering the Anthem Setup menu and stops upon exit. The other way it "works" is with the Anthem video processing enabled (not Passthrough) which means no 3D.
> 
> I have sent logs to Oppo.




The problem is back. Oppo did release a firmware mid-2017 that fixed it for about a year. I don’t use “3D mode” very often on the UDP-203 so I don’t know exactly which of the recent updates broke it. I will be resending logs to Oppo but if anyone else has this problem please let me and Oppo know.


----------



## gerard1meehan

*THX Ultra 2 bug*

So I have an interesting new bug in my D2v3D

I have an OPPO Nuforce 83 linked to the TV1-4 functions. Each set with a slightly different video output settings with the audio all set the same. I seems while set to TV 1 THX Ultra 2 does not work. It is the default for 5.1 sources and it does not initiate in that mode , nor does come up as an option when I use the THX menu key. 

When I switch to TV 2 it works. That function has the identical settings except it puts out standard def. video as pan scan it activates. 


Thoughts?


----------



## htguy2121

*Would like to Upgrade From Anthem D2 and P5*

I have currently owned the Anthem D2 to P5 for 13 years.

I would like to a full upgrade (minus speakers) to something that is a full step up in audio and video quality
but has the functionality that Anthem provides.

My current equipment is paired with Paradigm Signature Series 1 speakers in a 7.2 set up. (dipoles side and rear)

This set up will be for a dedicated home theater, where I also do music listening.

Looking to realize the next level of audio nirvana. 

Looking for suggestions.

Thank you


----------



## AVfile

htguy2121 said:


> I have currently owned the Anthem D2 to P5 for 13 years.



Bryston. If you must have ARC then D2v and Bryston amps.


----------



## jourdoktorn

kzsolt said:


> I recently bought a second hand D2V and looking for the latest firmware too.
> 
> I would appreciate if you or someone could PM me as well. Thank you!



I would be very happy too if you could help me with the files and PM.


/Jan


----------



## jourdoktorn

kzsolt said:


> I recently bought a second hand D2V and looking for the latest firmware too.
> 
> I would appreciate if you or someone colud PM me as well. Thank you!



I too would very much appreciate i you cold help me with the latest beta firmwares for the D2v.
Thanks.
/Jan


----------



## AVfile

jourdoktorn said:


> I too would very much appreciate i you cold help me with the latest beta firmwares for the D2v.
> Thanks.
> /Jan




Here you go:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b3xsfj7hmiwufx2/D2v3.09l.zip?dl=0


----------



## Mp0wer

Is it ok to have my speaker trim levels at a + level ?


Arc set my trim levels like this :


LF +4.0

RF +4.0

C -4.0

SR -1.0

SL -1.5

SW -1.5


----------



## AVfile

Yes it just means your main L/R speakers are less sensitive than the others.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^ Yep, you are fine. The Anthem has headroom designed in to allow for this.
--Bob


----------



## jourdoktorn

Hi Bob,


I hope you can help me with a problematic setup. I have tried to follow advices on this thread but all the possible setups and compatibility problems have made me confused.
I have - like you - an Anthem D2v and an Oppo 205. I also have an Exasound Play Point and Exasound e38 DAC capable of decoding multichannel DSD256 to 7.1 Ch RCA outs. I only mention these as their only outputs are RCA and they will occupy my analoque RCA-inputs on my D2V. 

I have my 4K sattelite decoder connected to my Oppo HDMI input.


These are my cable connections:

Oppo HDMI 1 out ---> 4K Projector HDMI input 1 4K and all other picture formats from Oppo

D2v HDMI 1 out ---> 4K Projector HDMI input 2 2K picture from HD-DVD and Sattelite decoder 2 2K
Oppo HDMI 2 out ---> D2v HDMI 1 in Sound 4K+2K Blueray, DVD and all other sound from Oppo

Oppo XLR out R&L ---> D2v in XLR R&L DSD 2Ch native sound and SACD 2Ch

HD-DVD HDMI out ---> D2v HDMI 2 in HD-DVD video and sound

Satelite decoder 2 HDMI out ---> D2v HDMI 3 2K Picture and sound 

D2v 6 Ch out ---> Power amp 6 Ch in To 5.1 speaker setup

I would like to enjoy Oppo played 2Ch analoque sound through my D2v XLR

----"----------"-------- Oppo played 2Ch DSP 2.1 through my D2v

----"----------"-------- Oppo played 4K Blueray and 5.1 Ch DTS-Master sound and other new sound formats through my D2v

----"----------"-------- Oppo played HDCD sound through my D2v
----"----------"-------- Oppo played SACD sound through my D2v

----"----------"-------- Analoque 5.1Ch decoded DSD64-256 through my D2v(from Exasound e38)



I would very much appreciate if you could help me with your best suggestions on settings in my Oppo 205 an D2v.


Best Regards,
Jan Nystrom


----------



## Bob Pariseau

jourdoktorn said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> 
> I hope you can help me with a problematic setup. I have tried to follow advices on this thread but all the possible setups and compatibility problems have made me confused.
> I have - like you - an Anthem D2v and an Oppo 205. I also have an Exasound Play Point and Exasound e38 DAC capable of decoding multichannel DSD256 to 7.1 Ch RCA outs. I only mention these as their only outputs are RCA and they will occupy my analoque RCA-inputs on my D2V.
> 
> I have my 4K sattelite decoder connected to my Oppo HDMI input.
> 
> 
> These are my cable connections:
> 
> Oppo HDMI 1 out ---> 4K Projector HDMI input 1 4K and all other picture formats from Oppo
> 
> D2v HDMI 1 out ---> 4K Projector HDMI input 2 2K picture from HD-DVD and Sattelite decoder 2 2K
> Oppo HDMI 2 out ---> D2v HDMI 1 in Sound 4K+2K Blueray, DVD and all other sound from Oppo
> 
> Oppo XLR out R&L ---> D2v in XLR R&L DSD 2Ch native sound and SACD 2Ch
> 
> HD-DVD HDMI out ---> D2v HDMI 2 in HD-DVD video and sound
> 
> Satelite decoder 2 HDMI out ---> D2v HDMI 3 2K Picture and sound
> 
> D2v 6 Ch out ---> Power amp 6 Ch in To 5.1 speaker setup
> 
> I would like to enjoy Oppo played 2Ch analoque sound through my D2v XLR
> 
> ----"----------"-------- Oppo played 2Ch DSP 2.1 through my D2v
> 
> ----"----------"-------- Oppo played 4K Blueray and 5.1 Ch DTS-Master sound and other new sound formats through my D2v
> 
> ----"----------"-------- Oppo played HDCD sound through my D2v
> ----"----------"-------- Oppo played SACD sound through my D2v
> 
> ----"----------"-------- Analoque 5.1Ch decoded DSD64-256 through my D2v(from Exasound e38)
> 
> 
> 
> I would very much appreciate if you could help me with your best suggestions on settings in my Oppo 205 an D2v.
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> Jan Nystrom


If you want to play multi-channel Analog input from both the Exasound and the OPPO 205, you will need a multi-channel RCA 2 in 1 out switch between those two sources and the multi-channel Analog input of the D2v. Check Monoprice.com for example. You can probably find a switch like that which can also be remote controlled.

So let's set the aside for the moment.

The D2v does not accept HDMI DSD input, so to play SACD via HDMI from the OPPO into the D2v you will need to set the OPPO to output HDMI LPCM instead during SACD playback. This is no big deal. For more info see my Blog post here:

Understanding DSD to LPCM Conversion, OR SACD "Noise Shaping" for Fun & Profit!

The way to do that is to set SACD Output to Auto in the OPPO. Note that when playing audio via HDMI, the DACs (Digital to Analog Converters) in the OPPO are not even in the signal path. Digital audio (DSD converted to LPCM in this case) goes to the D2v which takes it from there.

Now, for Analog to the D2v: The DACs in the OPPO are capable of converting DSD-Direct-to-Analog when playing SACDs, or you can have the OPPO convert the DSD to LPCM first and let the DACs handle that. With SACD Output set to Auto, and HDMI live to the D2v, the OPPO will use DSD to LPCM conversion, because that's what the D2v negotiates on the HDMI connection. So if you want to use DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion for the *ANALOG* output of the OPPO, what to do? The easiest answer is that when you want to do that, you set HDMI Audio to OFF in the OPPO. Since there is no longer an HDMI audio output connection (forcing LPCM in the case of the D2v), the OPPO will switch to using DSD instead, and that's what gets sent to the DACs. The Now Playing info screen displayed by the OPPO will tell you whether the player is playing DSD or is playing DSD converted to LPCM. The player can only do one or the other, so if you are getting LPCM out on HDMI during SACD playback, then LPCM is also what's going to the DACs in the OPPO for Analog playback at that moment.

When using the Dedicated Stereo XLR outputs of the OPPO as you describe, find the Stereo Signal setting in the OPPO. It has choices of Down-Mixed Stereo and Front Left/Right. Set that to Down-Mixed Stereo. This configures the XLR outs to operate independently of the Speaker Configuration settings in the OPPO which apply to its multi-channel Analog outs. While you are at it, also find the DTS Neo:6 Mode setting in the OPPO and set that to OFF.

When playing SACD using DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion in the OPPO, no audio processing is possible except for Volume control. In particular, no down-mix. So when using the XLR stereo outs be sure you select to play the STEREO content from your SACD since otherwise you will lose all but the Left and Right speaker channels. You can toggle which content is being played using the Audio button on the OPPO, or you can set SACD playback to use the Stereo content (when available) by default for SACD playback using the SACD Priority setting in the OPPO Setup menu.

You also mentioned HDCD playback. Unfortunately the OPPO 205 does *NOT* have the ability to decode the extra dynamic range of HDCD discs. HDCD discs will play as if they were normal CDs. The D2v also does not decode HDCD, so even sending HDMI LPCM to the D2v during playback of an HDCD disc will result in playback as if you were playing a regular CD.

In terms of getting 2.0 content to play as 2.1 speaker output (including the Sub) in the D2v, simply enable Crossover processing in the D2v. This will happen automatically if you have ARC enabled for that Input definition in the D2v (and have a Sub configured and wired).
--Bob


----------



## Prophizee

Quick question for you guys. I switched out my v7 atoms to the se atoms for my rear channels and also bought a new couch for the room. I reran arc three times and all of sudden it is saying that my decibel level is set at 101 instead of 75 and will use that to measure arc. My question, why would that happen all of a sudden? I haven't added a new amp since my last run the only new equipment is the atoms. In case you guys forgot what my set up is
LR prestige 95f
C c55
LRS montior V7 7s
RLR atoms se
Atmos cl pro 65
SW SVS PB 4000

PS
Just remembered my svs sub amp blew last weekend and I installed the new amp on Wednesday before running arc again yesterday would that be the cause?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Prophizee said:


> Quick question for you guys. I switched out my v7 atoms to the se atoms for my rear channels and also bought a new couch for the room. I reran arc three times and all of sudden it is saying that my decibel level is set at 101 instead of 75 and will use that to measure arc. My question, why would that happen all of a sudden? I haven't added a new amp since my last run the only new equipment is the atoms. In case you guys forgot what my set up is
> LR prestige 95f
> C c55
> LRS montior V7 7s
> RLR atoms se
> Atmos cl pro 65
> SW SVS PB 4000
> 
> PS
> Just remembered my svs sub amp blew last weekend and I installed the new amp on Wednesday before running arc again yesterday would that be the cause?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


Odds are you don't have the volume knob set correctly on the Sub since replacing the Sub amp.

The hardware only has a limited range of trims available, so if the Sub and main speakers are too far out of volume match, ARC may either need to change its target level for the solution, or just tell you it can't even build the solution THAT way, and you need to adjust your Sub volume.

Use a calibration disc and an SPL meter and adjust the Sub's volume knob so it produces the same output as, say Left Front. I.e., find the main Volume that produces 75dB SPL from Left Front and then adjust the Sub's own Volume knob to also produce 75 dB SPL at that same main Volume. Then re-run your ARC setup.

NOTE: You will need to zero the speaker volume trims in the Anthem before making this adjustment, so your test isn't screwed up by the trims ARC tried to use for your prior setup.
--Bob


----------



## Prophizee

So I did that before I ran the arc. I did a quick measure and had the sub set at 74.9 closest I could get from my listening position. But I didn't check the other speakers at all. Also when I run listing calibration to test on the actual 1120 all the readings are at 60.1 which is even stranger 

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Mp0wer

Is there a button I can program on my Logitech remote to switch between Analog-Direct and Analog-DSP ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mp0wer said:


> Is there a button I can program on my Logitech remote to switch between Analog-Direct and Analog-DSP ?


As far as I know, that's not a setting accessible via a remote.

Your best bet is to set up two identical Source definitions, one with Analog Direct, and the other with Analog DSP. Then you can toggle between them using the remote Source Selection codes found in Appendix A of the Manual.
--Bob


----------



## Xyrric

Hi.

Looking for advice on where I am going wrong.

I am trying to introduce a second sub into my system going from 7.1 to 7.2 and have run arc a couple of times and the results look decidedly odd.

Firstly the room is not rectangular and the original sub gave the best response halfway along a short wall between the MLP and the FL/C/FR. This sub to MLP distance is 3.2m.
The second sub is in the rear left corner of the room and is 2.4m from MLP. In the listener position menu I have set the subwoofer distance as 2.8m (the average distance of the two subs from MLP). Is this correct?

In the bass management menu with advanced settings off the fronts are set to large and all other speakers are set to small. My front three are all vertical floorstanders i.e. the centre isn't horizontal, behind an AT screen. They are PMC MB2SE's and play down to 20 Hz. (Is there anything to gain by putting the centre as large also?)

The subs setting is SUBS : 1 Sub (I believe this is correct)

I have individually level matched the 7 speakers to 75db at MLP using a sound meter. Then also matched the subs to 75db while running both subs together. Is this correct for the subs?

With Advanced settings to ON I have run ARC and it set my sub volume at -12 and rear L and rear R at +12.

I have then lowered the gain on both my subwoofers and re run arc. The results are broadly similar. See below for full details. Watching a movie there is just too much bass. A simple background piece of music is full of deep, throbbing, very immersion killing bass.

All advice will be much appreciated.

Settings after running ARC a second time

BASS MANAGEMENT MOVIE

a ADVANCED SETTINGS : On
b FRONTS: Advanced
c CENTRE: Advanced
d SURROUNDS: Advanced
e REARS: Advanced
f SUBS: 1 Sub
g XOVER FREQ: Advanced
h FRONTS XOVER: 60HZ
i CENTRE XOVER: 60HZ
j SURND XOVER: 70HZ
k REAR XOVER: 60HZ
l SUB/LFE XOVER: 115HZ
m SUB POLARITY: Normal
n SUB PHASE: 0 Deg
o BYPASS LFE XOVER: No

LEVEL CALIBRATION

a NOISE SEQUENCE: Off
b TEST LEVEL: -1.0dB
c DOLBY VOL CAL: NA
d FRONT -L: +6.5dB
e CENTRE: +1.5dB
f FRONT -R: +7.0dB
g SUR-R: +10.5dB
h REAR-R: +9.5dB
i REAR-L: +10.5dB
j SUR-L: +12.0dB
k MOVIE SUB: -12.0dB
l MUSIC SUB: -12.0dB






With the advanced settings set to ON I have run ARC


----------



## ST Dog

Subs together are just too loud.
Max cut currently so no telling how much too loud they are.

Turn them down.

Keep going til Arc isn't boosting/cutting more then 3-4 dB on any channel.

(The center may no fall in that range though)


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Try this:

Zero out *ALL* the Level Calibration settings, including Test Level. Play a calibration track -- I recommend the LPCM 5.1 Channel ID track from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray. Leaving ALL The level trims in the Anthem at 0dB, find the Main Volume setting in the Anthem which produces 75dB SPL from Left Front. Don't worry about the other main speakers at this point.

Using that same Main Volume setting and test track, now adjust the Volume knob on each Sub itself. Do this by powering only one Sub at a time and setting each Sub to produce 72dB SPL. (With both Subs powered, that will yield close enough to 75dB SPL.)

At the end of this all of your level trims in the Anthem, itself, will still be at 0dB.

Now, with both Subs powered, run your ARC setup and see what you get for levels. ARC will upload the new levels into the level trims in the Anthem as part of uploading the ARC solution.

------------------

There's another piece you haven't discussed: When you are using more than one Sub you must take steps to Phase-match the two Subs *BEFORE* doing your ARC Measurements. Since ARC hears both Subs playing together during the Measurements, the Phase relationship between them affects what ARC will hear. This is unlikely to alter your issue with the resulting levels, but it will alter what you hear as the resulting bass.

For more, see my Blog post here:

Adjusting Subwoofer Phase

--------------------

It's also possible to get wacky results if you have some "temporary" speaker trim settings in place which you've forgotten about. These are the adjustments you make using the buttons on the Remote (as opposed to in the Level Calibration menu of Settings). It is easy to forget about these because the "temporary" trims are remembered separately for each type of audio format.

The easiest way to deal with this is to erase ALL the "temporary" trims at one go. To do that:

1) Go into Setup and Save User Settings
2) Reload Factory Defaults (if you lose video at this point, you can continue using the messages in the Front Panel Display)
3) Reload Saved User Settings

The "temporary" settings are not Saved, so this resets all of them.

--Bob


----------



## Stevetd

How do I get sound to come through all speakers equally? We use one of our HT's as an exercise room too and we cannot hear (and keep volume as low as possible at 4:30 am) over treadmill, etc. The equipment is way back out of the sound field. On the Yamaha upstairs, it's a one button affair. I don't want a permanent thing, just temporary when exercising. When DTV Now was in PCM it didn’t seem to be an issue? Thanks in advance.


----------



## MitchPope

Stevetd said:


> How do I get sound to come through all speakers equally? We use one of our HT's as an exercise room too and we cannot hear (and keep volume as low as possible at 4:30 am) over treadmill, etc. The equipment is way back out of the sound field. On the Yamaha upstairs, it's a one button affair. I don't want a permanent thing, just temporary when exercising. When DTV Now was in PCM it didn’t seem to be an issue? Thanks in advance.




Once it's playing, hit “enter” on the remote (to the right of the 0 button on number pad) and that will cycle through the sound modes with the up and down arrows. You want "All channel stereo". It will reset once you turn it off.


----------



## BrianJB7

*Connections to LG C8 4K TV and OPPO 205* 


With the upcoming LG C8 4K TV to arrive the 20th of December, I have an connections question. 

Any suggestions on how to connect the C8 4K TV to the OPPO 205 for video and the Anthem D2 (I know it's going on 11 years with this incredible piece of electronics) for analog audio for movies, music videos and stuff like Pandora and streaming movies?

Thanks to All.

MIKEY


----------



## Bob Pariseau

BrianJB7 said:


> *Connections to LG C8 4K TV and OPPO 205*
> 
> 
> With the upcoming LG C8 4K TV to arrive the 20th of December, I have an connections question.
> 
> Any suggestions on how to connect the C8 4K TV to the OPPO 205 for video and the Anthem D2 (I know it's going on 11 years with this incredible piece of electronics) for analog audio for movies, music videos and stuff like Pandora and streaming movies?
> 
> Thanks to All.
> 
> MIKEY


Use dual HDMI cabling out of the 205. Connect Main HDMI from the OPPO direct to the C8. Connect Audio HDMI from the OPPO to the D2.

Be sure to use "Premium Certified" HDMI cables for ALL your cable runs. For more info on this important point, see my Blog post here:

HDMI "Premium Certified" Cables

--Bob


----------



## BrianJB7

Bob Pariseau said:


> Use dual HDMI cabling out of the 205. Connect Main HDMI from the OPPO direct to the C8. Connect Audio HDMI from the OPPO to the D2.
> 
> Be sure to use "Premium Certified" HDMI cables for ALL your cable runs. For more info on this important point, see my Blog post here:
> 
> HDMI "Premium Certified" Cables
> 
> --Bob


 
Hi Bob,


I get the connection you mentioned - Main from the OPPO direct to C8 for video. I like using the OPPO's DACs for audio and don't understand how the OPPO's DACs are used by connecting audio HDMI from the OPPO to the D2? 


I'm guessing I could enjoy both audio HDMI and Analog connections from the OPPO to D2 and switch between settings as preferred. This is something I've never done in more than a decade of having the D2. Time to give it a go.

BTW. Cool blog site. And, Thanks for your expertise!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Yes, you can wire both Audio HDMI AND analog to the Anthem. I use the XLR for stereo and the 5.1 RCA connections for 5.1. Note that you can not get 7.1 Analog into the D2. 

You have the choice of disabling audio processing in the D2 for the Analog Sources. Set ANALOG-DIRECT. if you do that for the 5.1 Analog you will need to set up Crossover processing in the OPPO and sufficient Sub Boost in the D2. 
—Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

*Anthem D2v w/ Oppo 203*

I recently purchased a new Sony VW695ES projector and the Oppo 203. I hooked up the Oppo's hdmi out directly to the projector's hdmi 1 input. I hooked the audio out hdmi from the oppo to the hdmi 1 input on the D2v since the Anthem can't process 4K. I get video but no sound. Any suggestions?
Thanks


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Kensmith48 said:


> I recently purchased a new Sony VW695ES projector and the Oppo 203. I hooked up the Oppo's hdmi out directly to the projector's hdmi 1 input. I hooked the audio out hdmi from the oppo to the hdmi 1 input on the D2v since the Anthem can't process 4K. I get video but no sound. Any suggestions?
> Thanks


Double-check that you have not accidentally plugged into the HDMI *INPUT* of the OPPO instead of the Audio HDMI output you think you are using.

Use HDMI "Premium Certified" cables for all of your HDMI connections. For more info on this see my Blog post here:

HDMI "Premium Certified" Cables

Double-check in the OPPO Setup menu that you have HDMI Audio output enabled. (Typically you would use HDMI Audio Format BITSTREAM into the D2v.)

Double-check that you haven't accidentally muted the audio output of the OPPO. (Mute button -- upper right on the OPPO remote.)

Check using something simple -- a CD disc for example. While playing the disc, press Info button on the OPPO remote and then Page Up or Page Down to change what's displayed. The bottom line of on-screen Info while now show what's going out on Main HDMI and Audio HDMI from the OPPO. Compare to what the status info in the D2v says it is receiving.
--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks Bob. I'll go down your informative list tomorrow,


----------



## Kensmith48

Looks like I had a "duh" moment. Turns out the hdmi cable I'm using is directional. I turned it around so that the Oppo was the Source and everything worked great.


----------



## AVfile

Bob Pariseau said:


> The OPPO will output HDMI LPCM 2.0 44.1kHz 20-bit (which is what results from the HDCD decoding) packaged for output on HDMI as 24-bit with padding zeroes.



Is there a readout anywhere in the Anthem menus that indicates the bit depth of the signal being received? I only recall seeing sample rate.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

AVfile said:


> Is there a readout anywhere in the Anthem menus that indicates the bit depth of the signal being received? I only recall seeing sample rate.


Nope. If your source does not indicate what it is sending you are pretty much left to guess.
--Bob


----------



## gerard1meehan

*Windows 10 and ARC*

Sorry if this has been addressed before. I had a laptop running Vista that I used for years. It's dead now and I was wondering if ARC works with windows 10, as I have a laptop running that. I remember there were issues, but not sure



Thanks


----------



## Cricket-RJ

gerard1meehan said:


> Sorry if this has been addressed before. I had a laptop running Vista that I used for years. It's dead now and I was wondering if ARC works with windows 10, as I have a laptop running that. I remember there were issues, but not sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


No issues here. I'm running Windows 10 Creators Edition.

Enviado de meu SM-G955U1 usando o Tapatalk


----------



## gerard1meehan

Cricket-RJ said:


> No issues here. I'm running Windows 10 Creators Edition.
> 
> Enviado de meu SM-G955U1 usando o Tapatalk


Great!!!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Make sure you get the latest ARC install from Anthem's web site. Do not simply install ARC on Windows 10 from the original distribution disc which came with your Anthem electronics.
--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Hi Bob, a new ARC that’s not ARC2 ?! News to us!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

AVfile said:


> Hi Bob, a new ARC that’s not ARC2 ?! News to us!


If his previous computer was running Vista, the ARC on the disc Anthem included with his unit is likely quite old. As is the installer which installs it.
--Bob


----------



## AVfile

Ah, makes sense now. Good advice, as always. 
Stefan


----------



## barhoram

anyone know if the front panel volume knob know to fail over time? My dad's unit has started to occasionally spin with no adjustment made. I looked and it definitely is turning the transcoder(?) arm inside. Volume works fine from IR...just the occasional issue with the manually adjusting from the knob.


----------



## Mp0wer

When hooking up an Oppo 205 to D2v with xlr, do you use fixed volume or fixed volume of 96 ?


I think I read somewhere stating to not go over a certain volume on the 205 or was that if used as a pre-amp?


----------



## AVfile

barhoram said:


> anyone know if the front panel volume knob know to fail over time? My dad's unit has started to occasionally spin with no adjustment made. I looked and it definitely is turning the transcoder(?) arm inside. Volume works fine from IR...just the occasional issue with the manually adjusting from the knob.




What model? 
Firmware up to date?


----------



## AVfile

Mp0wer said:


> When hooking up an Oppo 205 to D2v with xlr, do you use fixed volume or fixed volume of 96 ?
> 
> 
> I think I read somewhere you stating to not go over a certain volume on the 205 or was that if used as a pre-amp?



Fixed. If it overloads the input you can trim it using Analog DSP mode. Analog Bypass should be fine.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mp0wer said:


> When hooking up an Oppo 205 to D2v with xlr, do you use fixed volume or fixed volume of 96 ?
> 
> 
> I think I read somewhere stating to not go over a certain volume on the 205 or was that if used as a pre-amp?


Use "Fixed" Volume output on the 205 and then check for Clipping when playing loud passages through the D2v that way.

The easiest way to check for Clipping is to use the built-in level meter in the D2v. To do that you must (temporarily) establish ANALOG-DSP on that Analog Input. Then start playing content and go to the Setup > Analog Input Levels menu. Select the Input and you'll see a live, vertical bar showing the input level. The top of that bar includes a Pink level and then a Red level just above it. Adjust the Analog Input Level trim for that Input until the loudest passages cause the Pink level to light up briefly, but the Red level to NEVER light up. You'll need content that runs full scale to test this. For example, I like to use the Telarc CD of Bach's Toccata & Fugue in D Minor, which includes some full scale passages both at the beginning and near the end of the track:

https://www.amazon.com/Bach-Toccata...ywords=telarc+bach+toccata+&+fugue+in+D+Minor

But of course you can use whatever content you like.

With the 205 connected to my D2v / 3D I found a level trim of -1.0dB worked best for RCA input (both Stereo and multi-channel) and -7.0dB worked best for XLR Stereo input. This makes sense since XLR signals are, by design +6dB hotter than RCA. Again these are trims in the Analog *INPUT* menu of the D2v -- with the 205 set to "Fixed" output.

After picking the level settings that seem to work best in your D2v, you can then switch the D2v back to ANALOG-DIRECT if you prefer. Those Input attenuations you've set will still apply. You just can't see the live level bar in Direct mode.

By the way, I suspect that the reason for the -1.0dB adjustment here is that the live level bar in the D2v is a bit conservative by design. I don't actually hear any Clipping with the attenuation at 0dB for RCA Stereo Input, for example.
--Bob

[Edited to clarify the last sentence is for RCA input.]


----------



## barhoram

AVfile said:


> What model?
> Firmware up to date?


D2v non-3d...latest firmware

it very much seems to be something mechanical with the the volume knob....if I turn slowly and add some pressure towards the top or bottom it seems to make it work. Wondering if this is an easy fix....


----------



## ST Dog

barhoram said:


> it very much seems to be something mechanical with the the volume knob....if I turn slowly and add some pressure towards the top or bottom it seems to make it work. Wondering if this is an easy fix....


I doubt it's an easy fix for the average user.

For an experienced repair tech it probably is.

My guess is the volume encoder has loose solder joints. Next guess would be a bad encoder,


----------



## AVfile

barhoram said:


> if I turn slowly and add some pressure towards the top or bottom it seems to make it work.



Is it possible the knob is just loose? Does it spin freely or is their a slight resistance?


----------



## barhoram

AVfile said:


> Is it possible the knob is just loose? Does it spin freely or is their a slight resistance?


I thought of that....so I gently pulled the knob off and am just turning the shaft it connects to. It spins fairly freely.


----------



## AVfile

There should be a slight resistance such that it stops spinning when you let go. If you get the same problem when you turn the shaft itself then I agree with ST Dog. 

I don’t recall this problem being reported here before. It’s possible the unit wasn’t packed properly at some point in its life or something was placing stress on the knob leading to fatigue of the solder joints.


----------



## dweltman

So I just saw that Anthem is releasing a major ARC update that won't work on the D2V. I guess we really are at the end on this product. I am surprised they still sell it.


----------



## dmusoke

barhoram said:


> anyone know if the front panel volume knob know to fail over time? My dad's unit has started to occasionally spin with no adjustment made. I looked and it definitely is turning the transcoder(?) arm inside. Volume works fine from IR...just the occasional issue with the manually adjusting from the knob.


Mine broke during my move from another state. I took a few pictures of the breakage and Anthem decided that I need a new knob and encoder. Haven't yet installed it as my system is still in storage.


----------



## barhoram

dmusoke said:


> Mine broke during my move from another state. I took a few pictures of the breakage and Anthem decided that I need a new knob and encoder. Haven't yet installed it as my system is still in storage.


Did you send it in for repair or did they send you the parts? I took a look inside and can see the encoder. My guess is that its the encoder that is bad on it. (looks just like a rotary pot).


----------



## dmusoke

barhoram said:


> Did you send it in for repair or did they send you the parts? I took a look inside and can see the encoder. My guess is that its the encoder that is bad on it. (looks just like a rotary pot).


Bought the knob and encoder from them after they examined the photos I took of the damage.


----------



## barhoram

dmusoke said:


> Bought the knob and encoder from them after they examined the photos I took of the damage.


Thanks. Any info or a part number you can share? I sent a email to their tech support, but never got a response back. In looking at it..it would seem that the encoder is on a little board that would need soldered...is that correct?


----------



## dmusoke

barhoram said:


> Thanks. Any info or a part number you can share? I sent a email to their tech support, but never got a response back. In looking at it..it would seem that the encoder is on a little board that would need soldered...is that correct?


No clue ... just told them its a volume control for my D2v and they knew what it was, ofcourse. I bet it's the same knob used for the 50v and all their black colored processors or integrated amps. Can't imagine having different knobs for different processors/amps that look almost identical. Its just a standard knob with an encoder behind it.


----------



## Korey

*ARC Genesis*

Looks like no ARC Genesis love for the D2?


----------



## AVfile

Who knows if ARC GENESIS will be an improvement in algorithms / sound quality or just new shiny interface / wireless connection?

I would rather have a new 4K compatible video passthrough board. The current 3D passthrough board is causing no end of trouble and crashing my projector.


----------



## ST Dog

AVfile said:


> Who knows if ARC GENESIS will be an improvement in algorithms / sound quality or just new shiny interface / wireless connection?


A few items mentioned...

*
Improved Algorithms

New Target Curve Adjustments

Save, Stop, Start and Resume

Remeasure Individual Speakers
*

The last two are nice new features.


No love for MRX Gen1 either.


----------



## Kensmith48

I've had my D2v3D for quite a few years. I deleted the old arc from my computer (Surface Pro) laptop with Windows 10 and downloaded the new arc from the Anthem website. Everything works fine except the charts are at 65db instead of 75db. I used my old Radio Shack meter and set the main calibration (LF), subs, speakers, etc. to 75db. I ran arc and all the charts look good but they are all at 65db. Any ideas why or is this normal?


----------



## dmusoke

Kensmith48 said:


> I've had my D2v3D for quite a few years. I deleted the old arc from my computer (Surface Pro) laptop with Windows 10 and downloaded the new arc from the Anthem website. Everything works fine except the charts are at 65db instead of 75db. I used my old Radio Shack meter and set the main calibration (LF), subs, speakers, etc. to 75db. I ran arc and all the charts look good but they are all at 65db. Any ideas why or is this normal?


Unfortunately, that's a problem we've had here for quite some number of years. No consistent solution is available except that Anthem said it was a display issue only, IIRC.


----------



## Kensmith48

dmusoke said:


> Unfortunately, that's a problem we've had here for quite some number of years. No consistent solution is available except that Anthem said it was a display issue only, IIRC.


Thanks for the info. Seems like the last time I dealt with ARC I had the same problem. I saw that there was a new update and hoped Anthem would have fixed it.


----------



## Mp0wer

*D2v*

Is there a way to do a Hard Reset ?


My speaker trim levels all of a sudden don't work on remote and front panel, I tried resetting factory defaults...no go 



Any idea what's going on ?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Mp0wer said:


> Is there a way to do a Hard Reset ?
> 
> My speaker trim levels all of a sudden don't work on remote and front panel, I tried resetting factory defaults...no go
> 
> Any idea what's going on ?


First, how do you know they don't work? Are you not hearing the change when you make it? Keep in mind that adjusting these "temporary" speaker level settings will *NOT* change the values in the Setup > Level Calibration menu. Nor will it alter what you hear when playing the built-in level test tones in the Anthem.

Next, these "temporary" level settings are remembered on a per-audio-input-format basis. So, e.g., a "temporary" level change you make while playing DTS Bitstream audio won't apply when you play stereo LPCM audio. This also means you have to be playing the same type of audio to check whether a change you made is actually in place.

If you get confused about which "temporary" changes you have made across the different audio formats you can delete them all in one fell swoop as follows:

Save User Settings
Reload Factory Defaults
Reload Saved User Settings

The "temporary" settings are not saved, so this resets all of them.

--------------------

Reset Factory Defaults is the correct way to do a reset on the Anthem. Try doing a Reset, and then -- while still on the factory settings -- see if the "temporary" level changes now work. If so, it is possible your current, personal settings are corrupted. You can write them down and re-enter them manually after the Reset rather than reloading saved settings.

If that doesn't do the trick for you -- i.e., still no luck using the "temporary" level adjustments on the Remote and Front Panel -- the next step up would be to re-install the firmware. Remember you must do a Reset Factory Defaults before doing the install.
--Bob


----------



## gerard1meehan

*4k Blues!*

So I have finally taken the 4k plunge. I purchased a 4K projector and an UHD player. 

I am running the UHD into a HD Fury Vertex and that gives me one feed at full 4k for the projector and 1 at 1080p to run with the anthem with the full lossless audio. I did it this way as I wanted a 1080p signal as I have other TVs hooked up to the D2 

The fact that Anthem has not, and from what is being talked about is not making a new high end processor is just so frustrating. 

My AV supplier is actually talking up the new Emotiva. Any one actually audition this? Is there another Pre Pro in the 5-10K area with great two channel analog? The AVM 60 from what I can see is nowhere near the level of audio quality I want.


----------



## AVfile

Bryston SP3 has a 4K compatible HDMI board and top-notch two-channel sound quality.


----------



## Apgood

gerard1meehan said:


> So I have finally taken the 4k plunge. I purchased a 4K projector and an UHD player.
> 
> 
> 
> I am running the UHD into a HD Fury Vertex and that gives me one feed at full 4k for the projector and 1 at 1080p to run with the anthem with the full lossless audio. I did it this way as I wanted a 1080p signal as I have other TVs hooked up to the D2
> 
> 
> 
> The fact that Anthem has not, and from what is being talked about is not making a new high end processor is just so frustrating.
> 
> 
> 
> My AV supplier is actually talking up the new Emotiva. Any one actually audition this? Is there another Pre Pro in the 5-10K area with great two channel analog? The AVM 60 from what I can see is nowhere near the level of audio quality I want.


You talking about the Atmos capable 16 channel Emotive RMC-1? If yes then I'd check the thread here on AVS as well as the emotive lounge. It has quite a few teething problems. 

There should be a few more options coming out this year (e.g. ATI 16 channel processor).


----------



## EricE

gerard1meehan said:


> So I have finally taken the 4k plunge. I purchased a 4K projector and an UHD player.
> 
> I am running the UHD into a HD Fury Vertex and that gives me one feed at full 4k for the projector and 1 at 1080p to run with the anthem with the full lossless audio. I did it this way as I wanted a 1080p signal as I have other TVs hooked up to the D2
> 
> The fact that Anthem has not, and from what is being talked about is not making a new high end processor is just so frustrating.
> 
> My AV supplier is actually talking up the new Emotiva. Any one actually audition this? Is there another Pre Pro in the 5-10K area with great two channel analog? The AVM 60 from what I can see is nowhere near the level of audio quality I want.


I did the exact same thing as you. Bought the Vertex and used it with my D2V for a few months.
Everything was fine and working as I thought it would but then I found an amazing deal on a Marantz 8805 pre/pro

I thought I would never get rid of the D2V as I also run Anthem amps for the 7 bed channels. As soon as I swapped in the 8805 I could tell that the audio 2ch side was warmer and more fleshed out yet I could hear more details and depth from the music.
On top of that since the unit is fully 4K compatible, I only need to use the Vertex on the second monitor out to downconvert 4K to 1080p for when I don't need to use the projector.

I too was scared of losing the sound quality of the D2V but imho the new Marantz has finally surpassed it.


----------



## gerard1meehan

EricE said:


> I did the exact same thing as you. Bought the Vertex and used it with my D2V for a few months.
> Everything was fine and working as I thought it would but then I found an amazing deal on a Marantz 8805 pre/pro
> 
> I thought I would never get rid of the D2V as I also run Anthem amps for the 7 bed channels. As soon as I swapped in the 8805 I could tell that the audio 2ch side was warmer and more fleshed out yet I could hear more details and depth from the music.
> On top of that since the unit is fully 4K compatible, I only need to use the Vertex on the second monitor out to downconvert 4K to 1080p for when I don't need to use the projector.
> 
> I too was scared of losing the sound quality of the D2V but imho the new Marantz has finally surpassed it.


MY AV8805 arrives on Saturday.

The Anthem moves to my living room.


----------



## dmusoke

In general, are there better sounding room correction algorithms than ARC/ARC2? Has anyone compared Dirac to ARC?


----------



## Xyrric

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Try this:
> 
> Zero out *ALL* the Level Calibration settings, including Test Level. Play a calibration track -- I recommend the LPCM 5.1 Channel ID track from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray. Leaving ALL The level trims in the Anthem at 0dB, find the Main Volume setting in the Anthem which produces 75dB SPL from Left Front. Don't worry about the other main speakers at this point.
> 
> Using that same Main Volume setting and test track, now adjust the Volume knob on each Sub itself. Do this by powering only one Sub at a time and setting each Sub to produce 72dB SPL. (With both Subs powered, that will yield close enough to 75dB SPL.)
> 
> At the end of this all of your level trims in the Anthem, itself, will still be at 0dB.
> 
> Now, with both Subs powered, run your ARC setup and see what you get for levels. ARC will upload the new levels into the level trims in the Anthem as part of uploading the ARC solution.
> 
> ------------------
> 
> There's another piece you haven't discussed: When you are using more than one Sub you must take steps to Phase-match the two Subs *BEFORE* doing your ARC Measurements. Since ARC hears both Subs playing together during the Measurements, the Phase relationship between them affects what ARC will hear. This is unlikely to alter your issue with the resulting levels, but it will alter what you hear as the resulting bass.
> 
> For more, see my Blog post here:
> 
> Adjusting Subwoofer Phase
> 
> --------------------
> 
> It's also possible to get wacky results if you have some "temporary" speaker trim settings in place which you've forgotten about. These are the adjustments you make using the buttons on the Remote (as opposed to in the Level Calibration menu of Settings). It is easy to forget about these because the "temporary" trims are remembered separately for each type of audio format.
> 
> The easiest way to deal with this is to erase ALL the "temporary" trims at one go. To do that:
> 
> 1) Go into Setup and Save User Settings
> 2) Reload Factory Defaults (if you lose video at this point, you can continue using the messages in the Front Panel Display)
> 3) Reload Saved User Settings
> 
> The "temporary" settings are not Saved, so this resets all of them.
> 
> --Bob


Hi Bob. Thank you for your detailed and thorough guide to helping me sort through my issues.

I have been away on business for a few months but have recently had a chance to follow your suggestions and received much improved results. Your help is much appreciated.


----------



## Xyrric

I have another question I would like to ask as I can't seem to find an answer.

A friend who is going away has offered to loan me a Lyngdorf TDA 2170 so that I can assess RoomPerfect room correction. I would like to do this within my 7.1 system. He has suggested I follow the scheme below to achieve this. 

_1. Set up the TDA connecting to the main stereo speakers and sub or subs.

2. Run RoomPerfect for these speakers and subs.

3. Connect the TDA to you Receiver’s main pre-outputs.

4. Set up your Receiver and be sure the main speakers are set to “large”.

5. Additional subwoofer can be connected to the Receiver if required.

6. Do not use the Receiver’s room correction for the main speakers

7. Connect a 12v trigger cable between the Receiver and TDA

8. Set the TDA to HOME THEATRE mode

Now, the TDA doesn’t need to be touched by the user and will act as a slave amplifier but with all the benefits of RoomPerfect and its exceptional amplifier quality_

Can the above actually be done with the D2V? In particular is it possible to implement point 6? Is there a way to have ARC not applied to the front left and front right while being applied to the other speakers?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ No. ARC is not enabled on a per speaker basis.

However, if you set up your external correction first, and THEN do your ARC setup, ARC will hear the already corrected audio during Measurement and find it has little or nothing to do for the front speakers. Nevertheless, the Sub output may still be modified a bit to get the best blend between the Sub and your OTHER speakers.

--Bob


----------



## Xyrric

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ No. ARC is not enabled on a per speaker basis.
> 
> However, if you set up your external correction first, and THEN do your ARC setup, ARC will hear the already corrected audio during Measurement and find it has little or nothing to do for the front speakers. Nevertheless, the Sub output may still be modified a bit to get the best blend between the Sub and your OTHER speakers.
> 
> --Bob


Thanks Bob, a gentleman as always.


----------



## a1usedcomp

Sorry if this is not the place to ask , if not please link me to the correct thread . 

My question , I have a current 2 ch setup using a Luxman C-900u preamp and Luxman M-900u Amplifier . I would like to add a center channel and rear surround speakers and subs . I know my luxman can’t do this . I found a d2v 3d and I’m wondering if there is a way to use both the anthem and luxman ? I afraid if I replace the luxman with the anthem my sound quality in 2 ch might suffer . Thoughts ?


----------



## Mp0wer

a1usedcomp said:


> Sorry if this is not the place to ask , if not please link me to the correct thread .
> 
> 
> 
> My question , I have a current 2 ch setup using a Luxman C-900u preamp and Luxman M-900u Amplifier . I would like to add a center channel and rear surround speakers and subs . I know my luxman can’t do this . I found a d2v 3d and I’m wondering if there is a way to use both the anthem and luxman ? I afraid if I replace the luxman with the anthem my sound quality in 2 ch might suffer . Thoughts ?




If the Luxman preamp has Home Theater Bypass you can add a center and surrounds with the anthem or any home theater receiver or processor and still have your current luxman 2ch setup.


----------



## a1usedcomp

Mp0wer said:


> If the Luxman preamp has Home Theater Bypass you can add a center and surrounds with the anthem or any home theater receiver or processor and still have your current luxman 2ch setup.













Guessing this is what you mean ?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## a1usedcomp

a1usedcomp said:


> Guessing this is what you mean ?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mp0wer

a1usedcomp said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Im not familiar with that preamp, I would call Luxman and find out if that preamp offers a home theater bypass option.


----------



## AVfile

a1usedcomp said:


> Guessing this is what you mean ?



That’s it, external preamp is a bypass input where you would connect the FL/FR output of the D2v.


----------



## a1usedcomp

AVfile said:


> That’s it, external preamp is a bypass input where you would connect the FL/FR output of the D2v.




thanks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mp0wer

Does anyone know what model DAC is in the Anthem D2v ?


----------



## MitchPope

Mp0wer said:


> Does anyone know what model DAC is in the Anthem D2v ?


If it didn't change from the D2v to the D2v 3D, they are:

DACs: AKM AK4395 24-Bit/192kHz Delta-Sigma

according to Secrets of Home Theater


----------



## dweltman

I posted my D2V for sale in the classifieds if anyone following this thread is interested.


----------



## ANSEK

I have a D2 from 2007. I've been using it on my original setup ever since. I recently experienced an electrical storm where lightning struck the cable TV lines resulting in an electrical spike through the HDMI. As a result, my D2 and Denon AVR 3310CI were damaged. The resulting damage only affects the video stages of both devices. For my D2, none of the HDMI inputs produce video but they do produce sound (I only used HDMI in my setup with audio over HDMI). While an HDMI input is connected there is no video output to the screen just blackness, including the D2 overlays. When you disconnect the input HDMI the D2 overlays work and there is a blue background instead of black. This is the result for all HDMI inputs. 

A couple of questions, any thoughts on the issue? Is it worth sending to Anthem to get repaired or should I say goodbye to my old friend who I loved and move on to something new? This unit is in my family room controlling a 5.1 setup which will never get upgraded to Atmos (my dedicated Theater up stairs has the Atmos setup.)

Lastly, if I do go the route of sending it back to Anthem, can I contact them directly or do I have to go through a local shop. The local shops where I live are crooks who grossly overcharge the extremely wealthy people who live in the surrounding communities and expect everyone passing through their doors has tens of millions in the bank. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ANSEK said:


> I have a D2 from 2007. I've been using it on my original setup ever since. I recently experienced an electrical storm where lightning struck the cable TV lines resulting in an electrical spike through the HDMI. As a result, my D2 and Denon AVR 3310CI were damaged. The resulting damage only affects the video stages of both devices. For my D2, none of the HDMI inputs produce video but they do produce sound (I only used HDMI in my setup with audio over HDMI). While an HDMI input is connected there is no video output to the screen just blackness, including the D2 overlays. When you disconnect the input HDMI the D2 overlays work and there is a blue background instead of black. This is the result for all HDMI inputs.
> 
> A couple of questions, any thoughts on the issue? Is it worth sending to Anthem to get repaired or should I say goodbye to my old friend who I loved and move on to something new? This unit is in my family room controlling a 5.1 setup which will never get upgraded to Atmos (my dedicated Theater up stairs has the Atmos setup.)
> 
> Lastly, if I do go the route of sending it back to Anthem, can I contact them directly or do I have to go through a local shop. The local shops where I live are crooks who grossly overcharge the extremely wealthy people who live in the surrounding communities and expect everyone passing through their doors has tens of millions in the bank. Any help would be appreciated.


You can get service direct from Anthem.

If you are lucky, the problem due to the electrical discharge can be fixed by re-installing the firmware in your D2, so you may want to try that yourself.
--Bob


----------



## ANSEK

Bob Pariseau said:


> You can get service direct from Anthem.
> 
> 
> 
> If you are lucky, the problem due to the electrical discharge can be fixed by re-installing the firmware in your D2, so you may want to try that yourself.
> 
> --Bob




In a funny not I’ve never been able to successfully apply a firmware up but I’ll give that shot tonight. 

P.S. thank you Bob for your continued support! You helped me with my initial setup and I’m glad you are still helping the community.


----------



## ANSEK

Bob Pariseau said:


> You can get service direct from Anthem.
> 
> If you are lucky, the problem due to the electrical discharge can be fixed by re-installing the firmware in your D2, so you may want to try that yourself.
> --Bob


I got my new USB to Serial adaptor today successful re-installed / upgraded my firmware. It seems to be a 99% solution. I'm noticing some odd HDMI audio issues. Specifically, my Apple TV and ChromeCast Gen 2 both show PCM Stereo output for 5.1 Netflix content and Apple store movies. I checked the settings but given the consistency across the two devices if feel it is the D2. The good news is your suggestion got things working again.


----------



## runninkyle17

Bob Pariseau said:


> You can get service direct from Anthem.
> 
> If you are lucky, the problem due to the electrical discharge can be fixed by re-installing the firmware in your D2, so you may want to try that yourself.
> --Bob



This is great news. I hadn't even thought of trying this. I am going to give this a shot once I get my D2v unpacked (recent move). 



Also, since I did recently move my setup has changed and I will be using the D2v now with a 4k TV. As I understand, the best/cheapest way to have 4k video and use the D2v for audio is the HD Vertex Fury. Any other options that people have found?


----------



## fmzip

Re-ran ARC in our new home for the first time. Here are my results, any comments, suggestions etc?


----------



## AVfile

fmzip said:


> Re-ran ARC in our new home for the first time. Here are my results, any comments, suggestions etc?




That looks awesome! Not sure I would change anything.


----------



## fmzip

AVfile said:


> That looks awesome! Not sure I would change anything.



Good to hear since it sounds good too!

Looking forward to some reference level auditions with the wife out of the house!


----------



## AVfile

fmzip said:


> Good to hear since it sounds good too!



If you feel like tinkering, open your existing measurements on the computer and play with the targets (don’t bother remeasuring). Leave the “movie” config at the ARC defaults, and make any changes to the “music” config before recalc & upload. 

You can set the sub to flat (assuming it is a modern sub with overload protection) and push the cutoffs for your main L/R 10 Hz lower and/or 5k higher, for example. By uploading a different music config you can compare the two solutions on the fly, from the Source Setup menu. If you start to see anomalies in the calculated response (green line) then back off one or more changes before uploading.


----------



## ST Dog

Agree. Sub looks capable of running flat.

Even then, the calculated line isn't rolling off like the target line below 30Hz.

Does the new ARC allow setting the LF roll off? Can easily go to 20Hz instead of rolling off at 50Hz.

Also, what the crossover freq? Sub can easily go to 120 Hz and it'll probably make the others sound better if you pull that load.


----------



## M49r

bohai said:


> Hi all. D2V owner here. My remotes have been in a drawer for the past 5 years and we are preparing to move houses. When I retrieved the remotes (2) they are extremely sticky. What caused this and can it be removed? Sorry if this is the wrong forum but I find this site extremely hard to navigate.





I just found this thread and read the last several pages. I've had a couple of Anthems over the past few years. The solution for sticky remotes is to rub powder into the surface. The powder sticks and the remote is smooth again. It is a common problem with some other high dollar brands' remotes too.


----------



## bohai

I am considering selling my D2V 3D About six years old, maybe 7. No more than an hours usage per night. Still has box and two remotes. Great condition. ARC included. Anyone have a suggested price that these are worth? We are building a new house and this doesn't allow 4k video to pass thru.

Thanks


----------



## runninkyle17

bohai said:


> I am considering selling my D2V 3D About six years old, maybe 7. No more than an hours usage per night. Still has box and two remotes. Great condition. ARC included. Anyone have a suggested price that these are worth? We are building a new house and this doesn't allow 4k video to pass thru.
> 
> Thanks



Unless you just want to sell it to upgrade you can still use the D2v 3D for audio processing by getting an HDMI scaler (like the HD Fury Vertex or the gofanco Prophecy Intelligent). The reason I mention the gofanco is that I just bought one recently and it is working perfectly. The HD Fury has more features, but many that I would not use.


----------



## fmzip

AVfile said:


> If you feel like tinkering, open your existing measurements on the computer and play with the targets (don’t bother remeasuring). Leave the “movie” config at the ARC defaults, and make any changes to the “music” config before recalc & upload.
> 
> You can set the sub to flat (assuming it is a modern sub with overload protection) and push the cutoffs for your main L/R 10 Hz lower and/or 5k higher, for example. By uploading a different music config you can compare the two solutions on the fly, from the Source Setup menu. If you start to see anomalies in the calculated response (green line) then back off one or more changes before uploading.


Thanks for chiming in. So I understand what you are saying, here's a screen capture. 

Change the L/R to 50 or 55Hz on the music side, what do I change the 120hz on the sub to? It's a brand new modern sub, SVS SB-16. This is a bit Greek to me, the sound does seem a bit bright so I should cross the L/R lower, correct?


----------



## ST Dog

Look under advanced to set sub to flat.

Don't change the 120Hz setting.


----------



## fmzip

ST Dog said:


> Look under advanced to set sub to flat.
> 
> Don't change the 120Hz setting.


Will do... What does it do soundwise by setting it to flat versus what I have now?


----------



## AVfile

fmzip said:


> Change the L/R to 50 or 55Hz on the music side, what do I change the 120hz on the sub to? It's a brand new modern sub, SVS SB-16. This is a bit Greek to me, the sound does seem a bit bright so I should cross the L/R lower, correct?



You can make ARC go lower but it probably won’t make it sound less bright. The numbers ARC chose look pretty good, except that a Room Gain of 0 is very odd (it should nominally be 3.94). I think this is your problem. 

You could also try raising the Max EQ freq from 5k to 10k.


----------



## AVfile

fmzip said:


> Will do... What does it do soundwise by setting it to flat versus what I have now?




Subwoofer HPF: “Auto” engages a high pass filter so sub-sonic frequencies are rolled off. “Flat” allows the sub to get the full range so you feel more oumpf if the movie has bass below 20Hz.

Sorry I didn’t notice this before but your room gain is missing (0)! This will make it sound very lean. I’ve never seen ARC do this but I recall this being discussed in this thread before (try search). You can override the value and you’ll see a bump in the bass region of all your charts. Small numbers make a big difference here (try 3 or 4 max).

Get these settings sorted and do some listening tests before playing with the other cutoffs I mentioned. I suggest clicking Auto Detect to go back to ARC’s recommended values first.


----------



## fmzip

AVfile said:


> Subwoofer HPF: “Auto” engages a high pass filter so sub-sonic frequencies are rolled off. “Flat” allows the sub to get the full range so you feel more oumpf if the movie has bass below 20Hz.
> 
> Sorry I didn’t notice this before but your room gain is missing (0)! This will make it sound very lean. I’ve never seen ARC do this but I recall this being discussed in this thread before (try search). You can override the value and you’ll see a bump in the bass region of all your charts. Small numbers make a big difference here (try 3 or 4 max).
> 
> Get these settings sorted and do some listening tests before playing with the other cutoffs I mentioned. *I suggest clicking Auto Detect to go back to ARC’s recommended values first.*


Thanks for the the help. I had already recalculated and uploaded the earlier suggestion, bumped the curve down by 10hz, recalcuted, then hit upload. I see the autodetect button, do I know have to have to remeasure the room after hitting this button?

Could it be that my room gain is at zero since the subwoofer is just 5 feet behind my main listening position? Would increasing also bloat the subwoofer sound?


----------



## AVfile

fmzip said:


> Thanks for the the help. I had already recalculated and uploaded the earlier suggestion, bumped the curve down by 10hz, recalcuted, then hit upload. I see the autodetect button, do I know have to have to remeasure the room after hitting this button?
> 
> 
> 
> Could it be that my room gain is at zero since the subwoofer is just 5 feet behind my main listening position? Would increasing also bloat the subwoofer sound?



You don’t need to remeasure unless you move a speaker or large furniture in the room. If auto detect keeps setting room gain to 0 it might be worth remeasuring to see if that changes. For now you can just manually increase room gain and see if you like the sound.


----------



## Beattles

First post in a while. i recently got an Anthem AVM-50 to replace my Outlaw 950. I am running a 7 channel Outlaw amp as primary and a McIntosh MC-240 as a music only amp. I was running the Mc off of Zone 2 on the 950, but when I switched to the AVM-50 the output is limited by the AVM. Is there a way around this via Software upgrade (Current V 1.33) or other suggestion?

Thanks!


----------



## NutmegAbuser

I’m eyeing off a second hand avm50v and have a couple of questions!

1. How do you set customs output resolutions? The manual makes a vague reference to some kind of disk. Need 1365x768 for a NEC plasma display
2. Does the video processor add any lag? I do a lot of console gaming.


----------



## AVfile

NutmegAbuser said:


> 1. How do you set customs output resolutions? The manual makes a vague reference to some kind of disk. Need 1365x768 for a NEC plasma display
> 
> 2. Does the video processor add any lag? I do a lot of console gaming.



1. I’ve used the program provided by Anthem called LVSE. I don’t recall if it was on the original disc but you can download it. However you probably won’t need it as 1366x768p60 is one of the predefined modes the unit supports. 

2. I haven’t used mine for gaming but others have, and I don’t recall any complaints here about lag over the years. You can try the thread search.


----------



## isopoda

New to AVS Forum, a great resource.

Recently purchased a used Anthem D2. Not sure how old but SN139355?
Installed it but HDMI does not work. Can only see OSD if I select Component vs HDMI output.

Verified D2 output settings as 720p for my display but no signal.
HDMI cable tested and operational, display was tested with another HDMI signal as operational.
Visually verified that D2 HDMI output connector pins are not damaged or broken off.

Read previous posts so reloaded the v1.33 firmware successfully , but still missing HDMI output.
I think I have done what is necessary, any thoughts before a service episode?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Prior to installing the firmware you need to do a Reset Factory Defaults on the D2. If you did not do that, try the reinstall again. 

The only other thing you can do prior to seeking service is to recheck the HDMI cabling. Ideally it should be a new, “Premium Certified” cable, six feet long, direct to the display without any adapters, wall plates, daisy chained cables, or other HDMI gizmos in the signal path. Such cabling need not be expensive. Make sure the plug at each end is fully inserted straight into the socket. 

For more info, see my Blog post here:

HDMI “Premium Certified” Cables

—Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^ Also try 480p video into your display over HDMI. 480p (not 480i) is the simplest HDMI video signal. 

If 480p works, you know the HDMI hardware is live. Meaning your problem at 720p is either cabling or settings. 

Keep in mind when you change the video output settings of the D2 you must confirm the change before it takes effect. 
—Bob


----------



## isopoda

Thank you Bob.

Yes, a reset to factory default settings (using front panel setup access) preceded the successful v1.33 firmware re-install.
I tested it today with video output set to 480p by HDMI and again no OSD signal was displayed.
Will pickup a new 6ft certified cable to re-test before I visit Paradigm/Anthem in Mississauga.
Thanks once more for your advice.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

isopoda said:


> Thank you Bob.
> 
> Yes, a reset to factory default settings (using front panel setup access) preceded the successful v1.33 firmware re-install.
> I tested it today with video output set to 480p by HDMI and again no OSD signal was displayed.
> Will pickup a new 6ft certified cable to re-test before I visit Paradigm/Anthem in Mississauga.
> Thanks once more for your advice.


Are you getting content video, but just no OSD? Probably need service. 
—Bob


----------



## isopoda

To clarify, there is no source content (video or audio) or OSD coming from the hdmi output of D2. Thanks.


----------



## isopoda

Bob Pariseau said:


> Are you getting content video, but just no OSD? Probably need service.
> —Bob


Yes unfortunately, no video (or audio) content is displayed from the D2's HDMI out port when selecting any DVD / TV connected source or from the internal OSD.
I also took care to assign these DVD and TV source inputs correctly.
Thanks sincerely for your assistance.


----------



## fmzip

Bob Pariseau said:


> Use "Fixed" Volume output on the 205 and then check for Clipping when playing loud passages through the D2v that way.
> 
> *The easiest way to check for Clipping is to use the built-in level meter in the D2v.* To do that you must (temporarily) establish ANALOG-DSP on that Analog Input. Then start playing content and go to the Setup > Analog Input Levels menu. Select the Input and you'll see a live, vertical bar showing the input level. The top of that bar includes a Pink level and then a Red level just above it. Adjust the Analog Input Level trim for that Input until the loudest passages cause the Pink level to light up briefly, but the Red level to NEVER light up. You'll need content that runs full scale to test this. For example, I like to use the Telarc CD of Bach's Toccata & Fugue in D Minor, which includes some full scale passages both at the beginning and near the end of the track:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Bach-Toccata...ywords=telarc+bach+toccata+&+fugue+in+D+Minor
> 
> But of course you can use whatever content you like.
> 
> With the 205 connected to my D2v / 3D I found a level trim of -1.0dB worked best for RCA input (both Stereo and multi-channel) and -7.0dB worked best for XLR Stereo input. This makes sense since XLR signals are, by design +6dB hotter than RCA. Again these are trims in the Analog *INPUT* menu of the D2v -- with the 205 set to "Fixed" output.
> 
> After picking the level settings that seem to work best in your D2v, you can then switch the D2v back to ANALOG-DIRECT if you prefer. Those Input attenuations you've set will still apply. You just can't see the live level bar in Direct mode.
> 
> By the way, I suspect that the reason for the -1.0dB adjustment here is that the live level bar in the D2v is a bit conservative by design. I don't actually hear any Clipping with the attenuation at 0dB for RCA Stereo Input, for example.
> --Bob
> 
> [Edited to clarify the last sentence is for RCA input.]


Bob, great post as always. Does this feature work with the D1 as well or is it D2 specific?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The real time Analog input Level bar graphic is available in the Analog Input Level setting menu for the D1, D2, D2v, and D2v 3D. See the Manual page for that menu.
--Bob


----------



## fmzip

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ The real time Analog input Level bar graphic is available in the Analog Input Level setting menu for the D1, D2, D2v, and D2v 3D. See the Manual page for that menu.
> --Bob



Thanks Bob!

Question for target customization....

If I change the L/R/C from 60 to 50, does that make it a brighter sound, or deeper sound? Also, is zero room gain ever a normal setting? I have a wide open large floor-plan if that makes a difference.

My center channel range is 49-20hz, mains go 45-20hz so I assume I'd use the same number in this window if I wanted to play around?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Normal values for Room Gain are in the range 2-4dB. Larger rooms, particularly when treated for Bass would exhibit the lowest Room Gain. However a result of 0dB usually means ARC has spotted a dip in the critical frequencies (near and below the Crossover) which make it look as if the room has a negative Room Gain. Since negative Room Gain has no physical meaning ARC uses a 0 value instead. Typically you would raise that result to 1 or 2 dB and check whether problems show in the chart. 

Changing Crossover frequency simply alters the range of Bass sent to the Subwoofer rather than retained in the regular speaker channel. The effect that has in the sound depends on the capabilities of your regular speaker(s) involved and the Sub itself. 

With the Center rated down to only 49Hz, a 50Hz Crossover for Center is definitely too low. A 50Hz Crossover says Center is expected to produce quality audio all the way down to 25Hz! 

Even if your Fronts are “full range” designs. Odds are they can not produce quality bass AT VOLUME down to 25Hz. A decent Sub will likely be better down there. 

For the full story, see my Blog post here:

Choosing a Crossover Frequency

—Bob


----------



## fmzip

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Normal values for Room Gain are in the range 2-4dB. Larger rooms, particularly when treated for Bass would exhibit the lowest Room Gain. However a result of 0dB usually means ARC has spotted a dip in the critical frequencies (near and below the Crossover) which make it look as if the room has a negative Room Gain. Since negative Room Gain has no physical meaning ARC uses a 0 value instead. Typically you would raise that result to 1 or 2 dB and check whether problems show in the chart.
> 
> Changing Crossover frequency simply alters the range of Bass sent to the Subwoofer rather than retained in the regular speaker channel. The effect that has in the sound depends on the capabilities of your regular speaker(s) involved and the Sub itself.
> 
> With the Center rated down to only 49Hz, a 50Hz Crossover for Center is definitely too low. A 50Hz Crossover says Center is expected to produce quality audio all the way down to 25Hz!
> 
> Even if your Fronts are “full range” designs. Odds are they can not produce quality bass AT VOLUME down to 25Hz. A decent Sub will likely be better down there.
> 
> For the full story, see my Blog post here:
> 
> Choosing a Crossover Frequency
> 
> —Bob



Hi Bob,

I read your blog but I am a bit lost.

I don't know what my charts mean. Someone suggested upping or lowering by 5-10hz to see if I liked the sound. I assumed the "60" is what ARC had calculated, I did not put that number in there. Is it not what ARC calculated? I assume the zero gain is also what ARC calculated? I assumed everything in this window is what ARC came up with, it's not? 

If I go into this tab, I have to plug in numbers in all categories. I can't simply put "1" in the room gain setting without changing the default 60hz setting? Do I base the crossover numbers by looking at my chart readings somehow? Or do I simply double my fronts to 90hz and the center to 98hz. I have large front floor standing and large center channel speakers and a new SVS sub. I do not want to lose my front sound stage completely to the sub particularly on music. The sound after ARC sounded a bit thin which is why I was fiddling. Any suggestions would be great. Also, what would odd things showing up in my chart actually look like?


----------



## ST Dog

Yes, 5hw 60nis what ARC calculated.

You can move that up or down to see if it improves. You can do front different than center too.

The zero room gain is probably wrong. Bob explained why that can be miscalculated.

Yes, you can just enter the room gain in that window. You don't have to change anything else.

After changing you tell ARC to recalculate, download to the unit and listen.

I'd fix the room gain first. Then depending on how it sounds, try adjusting the crossovers.


----------



## AVfile

^ Agreed.

@fmzip When I first looked at your charts I could see that your speakers are doing a fine job. When you commented that it sounded thin I had a second look and noticed there’s no “house curve” (warmth) and room gain was 0. I suggest pressing the Auto Detect button in case the field was inadvertently set to 0. 

If ARC keeps it at 0, I would definitely increase it 1 dB at a time until you get a decent amount of mid-bass energy in the room (by ear). Then we can talk about making other minor tweaks.


----------



## fmzip

AVfile said:


> ^ Agreed.
> 
> @fmzip When I first looked at your charts I could see that your speakers are doing a fine job. When you commented that it sounded thin I had a second look and noticed there’s no “house curve” (warmth) and room gain was 0. I suggest pressing the Auto Detect button in case the field was inadvertently set to 0.
> 
> If ARC keeps it at 0, I would definitely increase it 1 dB at a time until you get a decent amount of mid-bass energy in the room (by ear). Then we can talk about making other minor tweaks.



Thanks for the suggestions...

I had ARC do a redo all together, now it has a room gain of.89


It’s certainly not lacking basss. . On the subwoofer page if I set the bass to flat on movies, should it also be set to flat for music? Or should it be set to auto for music? Any other suggestion.

Also, if it sets my mains for 60hz, would setting it 55hz send less bass to the sub?


----------



## AVfile

fmzip said:


> On the subwoofer page if I set the bass to flat on movies, should it also be set to flat for music? Or should it be set to auto for music? Any other suggestion.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, if it sets my mains for 60hz, would setting it 55hz send less bass to the sub?




Go ahead and set both to flat. 

Unrelated to the sub settings, but if you still find it bright increase room gain. 

When you change the cutoff frequency for the mains in the ARC software it usually moves the crossover frequency in the Anthem speaker setup menu to match. (You should not touch anything in this menu or you will break the ARC solution.) Like Bob said there is probably no point in lowering the cutoff if you have a good sub. This will put more bass requirement in your mains and yes, to answer your question, it will send less to the sub. It won’t affect the LFE channel; that always goes entirely to the sub.

In my system lowering the mains cutoff actually had the opposite effect I was expecting: it made the bass more boomy instead of tighter.


----------



## fmzip

AVfile said:


> Go ahead and set both to flat.
> 
> Unrelated to the sub settings, but if you still find it bright increase room gain.
> 
> When you change the cutoff frequency for the mains in the ARC software it usually moves the crossover frequency in the Anthem speaker setup menu to match. (You should not touch anything in this menu or you will break the ARC solution.) Like Bob said there is probably no point in lowering the cutoff if you have a good sub. This will put more bass requirement in your mains and yes, to answer your question, it will send less to the sub. It won’t affect the LFE channel; that always goes entirely to the sub.
> 
> In my system lowering the mains cutoff actually had the opposite effect I was expecting: it made the bass more boomy instead of tighter.


Thanks for the reply.

When you say "(You should not touch anything in this menu or you will break the ARC solution.)" which menu shouldn't I touch? The one I was referring to? The one you mentioned had exact opposite results?


----------



## AVfile

fmzip said:


> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> 
> 
> When you say "(You should not touch anything in this menu or you will break the ARC solution.)" which menu shouldn't I touch? The one I was referring to? The one you mentioned had exact opposite results?



If you’re using the ARC Software to upload settings to the Anthem, do not mess with the settings in the Anthem speaker setup menu.


----------



## runninkyle17

Well I thought I was ready to be done with my D2v and tried my hand with a Denon 4k receiver. Needless to say I was disappointed royally in the Denon and it is going back. Now I have to decide if I want continue with the D2v or look at other processor options. Seems like the only thing that will keep me sane is to get an HDFury Vertex so I can have proper 4k and HDR signals as I use Kodi as my main source for movies plus my PC games go through the D2v currently. 



I tried to live with the optical audio output from my 950G to the D2v, but that isn't going to cut it. So anyone have an suggestions or should I just spring for an HDFury Vertex until my next processor upgrade?


----------



## ST Dog

HD Fury is best bet.
Next would be a used Anthem AVR to use as a preprocessor.

I'm really tempted to get an HD Fury and 4k HDMI switch and go back to my MRX-300 (only 4 HDMI and no 4k),


----------



## fmzip

Question,

I have a D1 with the ANthem ARC kit.

If I were to buy a D2V without the ARC kit, would I be able to use the mic from the D1? If so, how would this work since it appears the mic is matched to the D1?


----------



## AVfile

fmzip said:


> Question,
> 
> 
> 
> I have a D1 with the ANthem ARC kit.
> 
> 
> 
> If I were to buy a D2V without the ARC kit, would I be able to use the mic from the D1? If so, how would this work since it appears the mic is matched to the D1?




The D2v should come with an ARC kit, unless they lost it or decided to keep it. 

But your mic only needs to be matched to its calibration file, which you already have installed with your current ARC software. You should be able to run your software and have it connect to the D2v and your old mic without changing anything.


----------



## fmzip

AVfile said:


> The D2v should come with an ARC kit, unless they lost it or decided to keep it.
> 
> But your mic only needs to be matched to its calibration file, which you already have installed with your current ARC software. You should be able to run your software and have it connect to the D2v and your old mic without changing anything.


Thanks for the information, as I mentioned it does not come with it


----------



## fmzip

I am upgrading my D1 to a D2V. Is there any way to export all my existing settings? I assume I can just upload my last room correction to the D2V as the measurements wouldn't be any different from the D1. Is that correct? But can I save anything else?


----------



## fmzip

fmzip said:


> I am upgrading my D1 to a D2V. Is there any way to export all my existing settings? I assume I can just upload my last room correction to the D2V as the measurements wouldn't be any different from the D1. Is that correct? But can I save anything else?


The answer is NO!


----------



## fmzip

Does there happen to be a list of IR remote hex codes available for the D2V?


----------



## fmzip

Just upgraded my D1 to a D2V.....


All I have to say is WOW! Two channel listening is far superior than the D1, just mind blowing good.

I thought the D1 was really spectacular but this unit is on a whole other level.


----------



## Kensmith48

I had a lightening strike on my outdoor antennae. I think the current went through the FM coax and into the hdmi input on the d2v. I get no picture or sound using the dvd player. I get sound on the FM radio though. I was checking the hdmi cables and the connector on the #1 input was hot to the touch. The cable is used only on the audio out from the Oppo 203. The dvd player probably needs repair but Im going to try a known good player and see what happens. Wondering if doing a reset would help or do I need service?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Kensmith48 said:


> I had a lightening strike on my outdoor antennae. I think the current went through the FM coax and into the hdmi input on the d2v. I get no picture or sound using the dvd player. I get sound on the FM radio though. I was checking the hdmi cables and the connector on the #1 input was hot to the touch. The cable is used only on the audio out from the Oppo 203. The dvd player probably needs repair but Im going to try a known good player and see what happens. Wondering if doing a reset would help or do I need service?


Odds are it needs service. But if you are very lucky you can cure this by doing a re-install of the firmware (which also requires a Reset). 

Also swap out the HDMI cables. 
—Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks Bob. I tested the dvd player on another source and it's good, but the inputs on the projector won't receive a signal. I by-passed the Anthem and went straight from a source to the projector and I get nothing. I'll be sending that in for a repair. I'll try reinstalling the firmware and swapping cables. At least the ATI amp didn't take a hit. I ran the ghost noise from the Anthem and the sound came through all the speakers.


----------



## AVfile

Kensmith48 said:


> I think the current went through the FM coax and into the hdmi input on the d2v. I get no picture or sound using the dvd player. I get sound on the FM radio though. I was checking the hdmi cables and the connector on the 1 input was hot to the touch.



Not clear but I assume you tried different HDMI inputs?


----------



## Kensmith48

Yes I did. I think I used #1 through #4 . I also bypassed the Anthem and went straight to the projector with no results. I also didn't get sound with anything when using the Anthem.


----------



## Kensmith48

Bob Pariseau said:


> Odds are it needs service. But if you are very lucky you can cure this by doing a re-install of the firmware (which also requires a Reset).
> 
> Also swap out the HDMI cables.
> —Bob


 I haven't done any firmware re-installs since the 1.33 version. Do go to the Anthem site and download the version 3.10? I did the 3D upgrade a few years ago so it already has the 3.10. I so just do a re-install correct?


----------



## AVfile

Ken since you have a 3D model with the HDMI mezzanine board please try inputs 5-8. There is a small chance only 1-4 are fried. 

You can download 3.10 and reinstall firmware if you want but I would first try factory reset and then redo SOURCE SETUP.


----------



## Kensmith48

AVfile said:


> Ken since you have a 3D model with the HDMI mezzanine board please try inputs 5-8. There is a small chance only 1-4 are fried.
> 
> You can download 3.10 and reinstall firmware if you want but I would first try factory reset and then redo SOURCE SETUP.


I reset the factory defaults and ran some tests. Hdmi [URL=https://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1]#1 -[/URL] #4 don't work. Hdmi #5- #8 work. HDMI #1 Output works but #2 HDMI Output doesn't. When I try to access the setup menu by pressing the menu and sub buttons for 3 seconds it doesn't work, but pressing the status button the Anthem does.


After doing all the mentioned things I thought I might as well try re-loading the firmware v3.10. Said it successfully uploaded but now all the above don't work.


I think I'll be calling Anthem in the morning and arrange to send it in.


----------



## AVfile

Interesting. Keep in mind no OSD on Output 2 is normal.


----------



## Kensmith48

AVfile said:


> Interesting. Keep in mind no OSD on Output 2 is normal.


 I realize that no OSD on #2 is normal.
I was doing tests with an older 983 Oppo player. Trying to be as basic as possible.


While testing I noticed sometimes an input or an output would work intermittently. I would swap cables out. Sometimes they would work and sometimes not. Anthem has a mind of it's own. After the firmware upgrade though, nothing works. Maybe the Anthem just got worse with use?


----------



## Kensmith48

Sent my Anthem D2v in for repairs. They said to send it to Anthem in care of Sam-Son Distribution. (To take it into Canada). All I can do is check on the tracking # and it says it arrived in Buffalo, NY on Sept. 18. How long does Anthem take to do a repair? I tried e-mailing Anthem but got no response.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Kensmith48 said:


> Sent my Anthem D2v in for repairs. They said to send it to Anthem in care of Sam-Son Distribution. (To take it into Canada). All I can do is check on the tracking # and it says it arrived in Buffalo, NY on Sept. 18. How long does Anthem take to do a repair? I tried e-mailing Anthem but got no response.


Repairs at Anthem are quite quick once they receive the unit. The Customs delay going into Canada and back out again -- along with transit time in shipping -- is usually what takes longest. Anthem does this a lot, so they've got the Customs part down to as fast as possible.
--Bob


----------



## Kensmith48

Will they notify me when they receive it and keep me updated? Living in Michigan, I thought it would be quicker. 
I just got back a blu ray player from Oppo and their service was excellent. Kept me informed of everything.


----------



## Jedirun

I just joined the Statement D2v club. I upgraded from a Onkyo PR-SC885. 

My old Audiosource Amps failed after my son left them on all day in a closed equipment closet. So I replaced them with a used Anthem PVA 7. Even though the PVA 7 was rated as having less power than the old amps it had more gain and were dead quiet. This got Anthem on my radar. I was eyeing the AVM 60, but after a lot of research and the realization that I was not interested in running speaker wire for more speakers or upgrading to a 4K projector, a used D2v started to look really attractive. 

I found one for $1100 delivered which is roughly half of what I would have paid for an AVM 60. It was a little bit of a pain in the butt to get the parts and pieces I needed to run ARC, Kit on EBay, serial to USB adapter, but it was worth it as the results are awesome. 

I am only running the EQ up to 500 Hz. The bass is great. Good punch without sounding boomy and my speakers (JTRs) sound the way they did when I got them. With Audyssey I had the choice of boomy bass or veiled sounding speakers. It is amazing to not have to make that choice. 

One of the weird things is that my 1080P video seems to look better. I can’t figure out why as I assumed that just letting it pass through the Onkyo was the best option. 

I haven’t even messed with the video settings. I guess the video processing is the D2v really is a step above the equipment I am used to.


----------



## Jedirun

My D2v came without a remote. Using the Harmony Hub remote is lacking. 

Specifically I can’t get into the setup menu and there is no back button. 

Without having the original remote, I can’t teach these commands to the hub. 

Does anyone have a solution or an idea of where to get a replacement remote?


----------



## drhankz

Jedirun said:


> My D2v came without a remote. Using the Harmony Hub remote is lacking.
> 
> Specifically I can’t get into the setup menu and there is no back button.
> 
> Without having the original remote, I can’t teach these commands to the hub.
> 
> Does anyone have a solution or an idea of where to get a replacement remote?


Most Owners got TWO REMOTES when their D2 arrived 

You could post an ad on here looking to buy a spare remote


----------



## Jedirun

drhankz said:


> Most Owners got TWO REMOTES when their D2 arrived
> 
> 
> 
> You could post an ad on here looking to buy a spare remote




Thank you. I had forgotten that I read that it came with 2 remotes. I will put a post up. 

I am getting annoyed with having to go into the closet every time I need to change a setting.


----------



## Jedirun

By the way, am I fooling myself that the video is improved by being processed by the D2v?

Could it be the the Sigma Designs VXP is that much better than the Silicon Optics Reon HQV video processor in my Projector?

This was not scaling anything. Both processors were being fed 1080P over HDMI. I could expect a difference if I was upscaling SD video, but I don’t know why HD would look any different unless it has something to do with the color space. 

This was not something I was expecting or looking for, but there seems to be a difference. Maybe I am just imagining it.


----------



## Kevin Rhymer

Hello everyone,

I recently purchased an Anthem AVM 50 (unfortunately not the v or 3D model) and I realize that it is an older model. I use this primarily for 2 channel audio but do have 2 video sources going through the unit (one PS2 game console connected through a composite video connection and a tv provider set top box (which is not 4k capable)). Both of these devices are output to the tv through the HDMI out on the AVM 50 and connected to a 4k 65" tv. 
When I first purchased this unit I was able to enter the setup and see it displayed on the 65" tv along with the Anthem startup logo and the information bar at the bottom of the screen (volume, source, levels, etc). Now for some reason I am unable to see any of that on the tv. The screen stays blank or there is a box centered on the screen that shows vertical moving lines. Even when pressing the "7" key on the remote to enter the video setup option.
So far I have tried the following:


----------



## Kevin Rhymer

Sorry about that... my keyboard is doing strange things... 

- I can enter the configuration screen but is only visible on the front of the unit.

So far I have tried the following steps:
- Changed HDMI ports on tv
- changed HDMI cables (tried older HDMI and new HDMI 2.x cables)
- verified settings in the video configuration (from main setup screen). 
- output is set to HDMI preferred,
- Native Resolution is currently set to "Auto" (have tried 1920x1080p 60 and 720x480p 60)
- Color Space is set to HDTV
- Data is set to "Auto"
- Tried an older 1080p tv and not able to get the setup/ configuration/ information screens to display

Still not getting a display on the tv for the setup or video configuration screens.
- factory reset AVM 50 through the menu

Still no change
- Turned off the A/C switch for approximately 30 minutes
When powered back up the front display shows "Power Interrupted: Check Current Time". I have not been able to locate any option to check the time on this unit

I was able to get the start up logo and information bar to show up. Turned off the unit by using the remote when I went to work and am back to the same issue. I have factory reset the unit again (powered off after the reset and restarted) and am unable to get the startup logo, setup screen, video configuration screen or information bar to display again.

Overall I do really enjoy the unit and am impressed with the audio quality. The video passthrough and upscaling are working great. I would like to be able to get this unit setup to maximize it's capabilities. 
Any assistance would be appreciated

Kevin


----------



## Kensmith48

Next set the sub volumes separately. Turn one sub off (at the sub itself -- unplug it if necessary). Go to Setup > Level Calibration. Zero out every line in there. Then set Noise Level to produce 75dB SPL (the LF speaker will be the one playing). Then scroll to either sub line and, leaving that line at 0dB, adjust the volume knob in the still powered sub to produce 73dB SPL (not 75dB). Turn off that sub and turn on the other sub (again, at the subs). Adjust it's volume knob to also produce 73dB. You are done. In combo they'll produce roughly 75dB and they are balance with respect to each other. "Roughly" is close enough.

3) Next set the phase for each sub separately. With only one sub powered at a time, adjust the Polarity/Phase for that sub to best match the LF speaker. Use the phase/polarity controls on the sub itself. You'll need the phase adjustment tones on a calibration DVD -- details are in those post links in the first post of this thread. When both subs are in phase with LF then they are also in phase with each other.


I did all the above but when I play a calibration disc (Avia) the volume is too low. Since I set the Noise Level and the sub in the Level Calibration for 75db should it play that loud or do I have to turn up the volume on the Anthem to 75db using an SPL Meter to hear the dvd at 75db? I also have another disc called AIX. Is this one better than the Avia?


----------



## AVfile

Kensmith48 said:


> I did all the above but when I play a calibration disc (Avia) the volume is too low. Since I set the Noise Level and the sub in the Level Calibration for 75db should it play that loud or do I have to turn up the volume on the Anthem to 75db using an SPL Meter to hear the dvd at 75db?



The 75 dB is arbitrary but a comfortable level for calibration. Once you exit the calibration menu you can turn up the volume as much as you want. It depends on what level the test tones on disc were mastered at. Same with movies, they are mastered at various levels.


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks, Kind of what I thought. I was trying to dial in the phase and I couldn't hear any difference from 0 to 180. Now I'm wondering what is the purpose of setting the noise level at 75db?


----------



## AVfile

It’s to set the gain on the subs to a nominal level so that ARC can fine tune levels without being burdened with gross adjustments. That keeps the software happy.


----------



## ST Dog

AVfile said:


> The 75 dB is all arbitrary. You can turn up the volume as much as you want. It depends on what level the test tones disc was mastered at. Same with movies, they are mastered at various levels.


No entirely arbitrary. For a specific/reference input volume the output should be a specific/reference SPL. 

While ARC will adjust the balance among the different channels (front, center, sub, etc) it has a limited adjustment range. So you really want the sub amp(s) close to the reference so as not to run into the ARC limits as it tries to balance. 

Also if ARC has to cut the sub a large amount to balance, it can cause the sub to shut off during quiet passages


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Kevin Rhymer said:


> Sorry about that... my keyboard is doing strange things...
> 
> - I can enter the configuration screen but is only visible on the front of the unit.
> 
> So far I have tried the following steps:
> - Changed HDMI ports on tv
> - changed HDMI cables (tried older HDMI and new HDMI 2.x cables)
> - verified settings in the video configuration (from main setup screen).
> - output is set to HDMI preferred,
> - Native Resolution is currently set to "Auto" (have tried 1920x1080p 60 and 720x480p 60)
> - Color Space is set to HDTV
> - Data is set to "Auto"
> - Tried an older 1080p tv and not able to get the setup/ configuration/ information screens to display
> 
> Still not getting a display on the tv for the setup or video configuration screens.
> - factory reset AVM 50 through the menu
> 
> Still no change
> - Turned off the A/C switch for approximately 30 minutes
> When powered back up the front display shows "Power Interrupted: Check Current Time". I have not been able to locate any option to check the time on this unit
> 
> I was able to get the start up logo and information bar to show up. Turned off the unit by using the remote when I went to work and am back to the same issue. I have factory reset the unit again (powered off after the reset and restarted) and am unable to get the startup logo, setup screen, video configuration screen or information bar to display again.
> 
> Overall I do really enjoy the unit and am impressed with the audio quality. The video passthrough and upscaling are working great. I would like to be able to get this unit setup to maximize it's capabilities.
> Any assistance would be appreciated
> 
> Kevin


First make sure you are using the Main HDMI output socket on the back of the Anthem. The on screen display stuff is only present on that output, not on the 2nd HDMI output just below it.

If that's not it, get in touch with Anthem tech support. They will likely recommend you do a re-install of the firmware (which starts with doing a Reset Factory Defaults on the unit). They can walk you through that.
--Bob


----------



## AVfile

^ I think AVM-50 only has one HDMI OUT.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Correct. I missed that his unit was that vintage. 
—Bob


----------



## kajtarp

Hello,


question, is it possible to use rca and xlr connections mixed with the d2v3d? I currently have all my power amsp and subs connected with RCA. But i have bought a pro cinema subwoofer with an external power amp that only has xlr and trs inputs. So question is, should i use rca to xlr, rca to trs connectors or i can use XLR connection straight into the power amp? What would be the most beneficial ?


Regards
Peter


----------



## Bob Pariseau

kajtarp said:


> Hello,
> 
> 
> question, is it possible to use rca and xlr connections mixed with the d2v3d? I currently have all my power amsp and subs connected with RCA. But i have bought a pro cinema subwoofer with an external power amp that only has xlr and trs inputs. So question is, should i use rca to xlr, rca to trs connectors or i can use XLR connection straight into the power amp? What would be the most beneficial ?
> 
> 
> Regards
> Peter


You can use XLR to the Sub. Be sure to check the Sub's own volume level is set correctly. Use a calibration track and an SPL meter.
--Bob


----------



## dfaith

Oh learned ones, Help.
I have my HTPC connected via hdmi, the desk top is too large for the screen. I've searched and can't find how to reduce the size to fit the screen. 
Hoping someone can help me out.
Thanks


----------



## ST Dog

dfaith said:


> I have my HTPC connected via hdmi, the desk top is too large for the screen. I've searched and can't find how to reduce the size to fit the screen.


What OS is on the PC?
Do you have a mouse and keyboard for it?


----------



## MitchPope

dfaith said:


> Oh learned ones, Help.
> I have my HTPC connected via hdmi, the desk top is too large for the screen. I've searched and can't find how to reduce the size to fit the screen.
> Hoping someone can help me out.
> Thanks


Do you mean overscan? Like there is a border missing around your desktop? What kind of TV do you have?


----------



## dfaith

Yes over scan. HTPC hdmi to Anthem then HDMI to projector


----------



## ST Dog

dfaith said:


> Yes over scan. HTPC hdmi to Anthem then HDMI to projector


You still didn't say what OS.

You need to adjust the PC setting to the correct size. How you do that depends on the OS.

Neither the display nor the preprocessor have screen size adjustments. (Old CRT monitors did but I haven't seen such in digital(LCD/LED) displays)


----------



## dfaith

Thanks for jump starting my brain, it's a computer display issue. Found the screen adjustment reduced H and V to 60% and I'm good to go.
All the best


----------



## neb04

Hi guys,

The last time I did an ARC measurement in my room was almost 3 years ago, so thought it's high time I do another one. Connected up everything, zero my FL and Sub, set noise level to 75dB, and started the program. It found my D2v3D alright, but then keep telling me "Measurement procedure failed - Failed to initialize audio capture device."

Can anybody advise me what is happening? Is something broken in my D2v3D? Thanks.


----------



## ST Dog

Capture device would be the microphone.
Sounds like your computer isn't seeing the mic.

Is this the same computer you used 3yrs ago?


----------



## neb04

ST Dog said:


> Capture device would be the microphone.
> Sounds like your computer isn't seeing the mic.
> 
> Is this the same computer you used 3yrs ago?


Ok, I just remembered that I turned off the microphone app permission in the PC Privacy Settings. Turned it on and everything is fine now.

Thanks for jolting my memory. I needed that.


----------



## doubleroll

Can someone help me analyze these latest ARC results? Also, any suggestions for a music mode and what parameters I should tweak? Thanks!


----------



## doubleroll

*ARC calibration help*



doubleroll said:


> Can someone help me analyze these latest ARC results? Also, any suggestions for a music mode and what parameters I should tweak? Thanks!


Did some reading and found a post from Bob Pariseau about music mode which says basically ARC does exactly the same as Movie and only use to add/remove speaker settings if needed. Since I also listen to MCH music I will leave them the same.

One thing that is interesting is the subwoofer xover at 120Hz...the other at 60Hz and 65Hz seem ok. I will have to dig up an older calibration and compare but I thought it was at a lower point last time...

I guess everyone has moved to Genesis ;-)


----------



## Kensmith48

Your graphs look good except for the sub. I would move it around and use the Quick Measure for the best spot. Try to get as close to the green line in your chart.


----------



## doubleroll

Kensmith48 said:


> Your graphs look good except for the sub. I would move it around and use the Quick Measure for the best spot. Try to get as close to the green line in your chart.


Thanks I really appreciate your response on a super old thread! Do you think adding a second sub would help here in addition to placement. Thx again...


----------



## AVfile

doubleroll said:


> Thanks I really appreciate your response on a super old thread! Do you think adding a second sub would help here in addition to placement. Thx again...



You might be at the limits of your sub but the LFE could use a stronger response at 20Hz. My old sub had worse peaks than yours and much less upper-bass energy than yours, so I switched it with two new subs and it’s been great ever since. The room still causes some fundamental peaks and valleys no matter where I put the subs. 

That extra upper-bass is not a bad thing. ARC is having no problem rolling it off and that is what the 120Hz LPF filter is for (not HPF). So the 120 is a good sign that ARC likes your sub and you’re getting the full bandwidth of the LFE channel, except for the reduced subsonics. 

Assuming your sub is up to task and you manage to gain some more LFE via placement, in the Advanced window you can set the Subwoofer HPF to FLAT instead of Auto. This prevents ARC from rolling off the subsonics. 

Any tweaks like this can be made in one memory (movie or music) while preserving the original ARC settings in the other memory. The beauty is you don’t have to remeasure, just recalculate after tweaking and upload. 

Bob’s posts were assuming ARC knows best and you would never want to second-guess ARC settings and tweak! Just remember to go into SOURCE SETUP and select the Movie/Music EQ as the mood strikes.


----------



## NIAVANNA

Hi, guys. anyone here use two center speakers, and turn the "DOBLY VOLUME" on to get stronger dialogue sound ?


----------



## doubleroll

AVfile said:


> You might be at the limits of your sub but the LFE could use a stronger response at 20Hz. My old sub had worse peaks than yours and much less upper-bass energy than yours, so I switched it with two new subs and it’s been great ever since. The room still causes some fundamental peaks and valleys no matter where I put the subs.
> 
> That extra upper-bass is not a bad thing. ARC is having no problem rolling it off and that is what the 120Hz LPF filter is for (not HPF). So the 120 is a good sign that ARC likes your sub and you’re getting the full bandwidth of the LFE channel, except for the reduced subsonics.
> 
> Assuming your sub is up to task and you manage to gain some more LFE via placement, in the Advanced window you can set the Subwoofer HPF to FLAT instead of Auto. This prevents ARC from rolling off the subsonics.
> 
> Any tweaks like this can be made in one memory (movie or music) while preserving the original ARC settings in the other memory. The beauty is you don’t have to remeasure, just recalculate after tweaking and upload.
> 
> Bob’s posts were assuming ARC knows best and you would never want to second-guess ARC settings and tweak! Just remember to go into SOURCE SETUP and select the Movie/Music EQ as the mood strikes.


Great information! I think you nailed it, my sub may be at its LFE limit. It’s a 12” Linn Sizmik in a large multipurpose room, living, dining, kitchen open floor plan. I plan on playing around with placement a bit more but looking at adding a second or larger Sub in the near future...

Thanks very much!


----------



## Kensmith48

The size of your room plays a big part. My theater room is 15x29. I recently went with SVS subs. Before purchasing I sent an e-mail to them asking what subs I should use. They recommended the Ultra 16". I bought 2 of them and they are placed next to my main speakers. Couldn't be happier.


----------



## sjcruiser

Hi all,

I recently tried to carry out the FW update on the D2v from 2.08 to 3.09 version.

The update process went fine for the first few minutes. However, it seemed to take a long time at "Uploading video processor uC Flash programmer...Please wait", then ultimately failed to "Video processor reset failed".

My serial connection was set to 19200,8N2; and I'm using a Dell XPS laptop with Windows 10 to perform the update using the USB to serial dongle (19HS).

I've retried many times - yet seem to get to the same point every time. The unit did not have any issues besides the usual squirks older FW.

Please help - thanks in advance!
Frank.


----------



## MitchPope

sjcruiser said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I recently tried to carry out the FW update on the D2v from 2.08 to 3.09 version.
> 
> The update process went fine for the first few minutes. However, it seemed to take a long time at "Uploading video processor uC Flash programmer...Please wait", then ultimately failed to "Video processor reset failed".
> 
> My serial connection was set to 19200,8N2; and I'm using a Dell XPS laptop with Windows 10 to perform the update using the USB to serial dongle (19HS).
> 
> I've retried many times - yet seem to get to the same point every time. The unit did not have any issues besides the usual squirks older FW.
> 
> Please help - thanks in advance!
> Frank.


Do you have any USB2 plugs on your laptop? I vaguely remember people having issues with USB3 (the blue ones). Do you have the latest drivers installed for your Keyspan? I did have the same problem as you for a while, but I did get it to work eventually. I can't remember what I did. Also make sure the FW update is the only thing running on your laptop. It is very temperamental. I may able to find a copy of the beta firmwares for 3.09 ("j" I think) if you want to give that a shot.


----------



## AVfile

MitchPope said:


> Do you have any USB2 plugs on your laptop? I vaguely remember people having issues with USB3 (the blue ones). Do you have the latest drivers installed for your Keyspan? I did have the same problem as you for a while, but I did get it to work eventually. I can't remember what I did. Also make sure the FW update is the only thing running on your laptop. It is very temperamental. I may able to find a copy of the beta firmwares for 3.09 ("j" I think) if you want to give that a shot.



Yes, I recall people having trouble with USB3 but that might have been with the ARC mic. Still worth trying a USB2 port, or real RS-232 serial port if you (sjcruiser ) can borrow an old PC. 

Note: I can’t find any documentation about the port settings in the manual or firmware readme file, so I checked my old PC and I have Com1 set to: 9600 baud, 8N1.

I agree that firmware 3.09j is a good idea. It has some very important audio fixes for the 50v (and some more minor fixes for the D2v) so why Anthem never made an official update for the non-3D hardware is beyond me!


----------



## AVfile

sjcruiser said:


> The update process went fine for the first few minutes. However, it seemed to take a long time at "Uploading video processor uC Flash programmer...Please wait", then ultimately failed to "Video processor reset failed".


You should contact Anthem if this persists but the first thing they will say is to do a factory reset before uploading the firmware.


----------



## sjcruiser

Here are a few things I've tried gathering tips on this site:

. Used an old Dell Latitude with USB2.0 ports --> still get "Video processor reset failed"
. Used an old Dell workstation with native serial port direct connect to D2v without the 19HS Keyspan dongle --> same error

Power on sequence shows that the FW is 3.09 - However, the video inputs/outputs are no-functional (verified on port1 and port5) - though I could get audio output via headphone jack (removed D2v from rack to bench). 

Is there anything else I could try? Different baud rate, flow control settings, or any other tools? (I sense that 2 stop bits is imperial). I work on cloud infrastructures' FW updates on a daily basis and would like to get this resolved before resorting to sending it in for service.


----------



## sjcruiser

AVfile said:


> You should contact Anthem if this persists but the first thing they will say is to do a factory reset before uploading the firmware.


Yes, first recommended action was to factory reset the unit through the screen menu

Second recommended action (as the issue persists) is to send the unit in for service (which shocked me quite a bit as I literally update thousands of various FW sets daily for a living and haven't seen instability like this)


----------



## MitchPope

sjcruiser said:


> Yes, first recommended action was to factory reset the unit through the screen menu
> 
> Second recommended action (as the issue persists) is to send the unit in for service (which shocked me quite a bit as I literally update thousands of various FW sets daily for a living and haven't seen instability like this)


I hope you figure it out before you have to send it in. I think it took me 4 or 5 times before it actually worked. I was just using the default COM settings that worked for ARC.


----------



## AVfile

sjcruiser said:


> Yes, first recommended action was to factory reset the unit through the screen menu
> 
> Second recommended action (as the issue persists) is to send the unit in for service (which shocked me quite a bit as I literally update thousands of various FW sets daily for a living and haven't seen instability like this)



Depending on who replied they might not be aware of all the options. Back in the days when Nick @ Anthem and Bob Pariseau frequented this thread there was talk about running a flash erase utility before resorting to an RMA. I don’t know if this was for the video board or the main board memory.


----------



## chileboy

*IR Codes for analog modes?*

Yes, I still use and love my AVM 50. 

Are there IR codes to select analog DSP and/or analog direct modes? It seems the manual shows MODE or THX + 2 digits to select every sound format except these - if I want to switch I have to go into source setup which is obviously a pain.

I'm thinking the answer (which may be "no") is buried somewhere in this thread, but I gave up trying to find it tbh.

Thanks,

- Mark


----------



## bigdaddy999

I have a D2. I'm trying to figure out a way to turn it on/off as a toggle instead of the separate controls for On and Off. I have an Amazon Fire Cube which will turn on both the TV and the D2, but will not turn it off. Is there a setting to control if on/off will toggle? Thanks!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Power Toggle is a 3rd remote code distinct from Power On and Power Off. I’m pretty sure this can be found in the Anthem docs for the D2, but I’ve no idea how you can get the Cube to use it. 
—Bob


----------



## barhoram

Hopefully some of the D2V gurus are still looking at this thread.....I just upgraded to a projector than can do 3D, but my D2V is not the 3D model. I'd like to try a few 3D Blu Rays in my Oppo 103D player. Is it correct that I need to completely bypass the D2V for video, and only route the audio to the processor? So output 1 of the Oppo would go directly to my projector, and output 2 of the Oppo would go to the D2V for audio only? Is that the correct (and best) way to accomplish 3D?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

barhoram said:


> Hopefully some of the D2V gurus are still looking at this thread.....I just upgraded to a projector than can do 3D, but my D2V is not the 3D model. I'd like to try a few 3D Blu Rays in my Oppo 103D player. Is it correct that I need to completely bypass the D2V for video, and only route the audio to the processor? So output 1 of the Oppo would go directly to my projector, and output 2 of the Oppo would go to the D2V for audio only? Is that the correct (and best) way to accomplish 3D?


Yep!
--Bob


----------



## barhoram

Bob Pariseau said:


> Yep!
> --Bob


Thanks Bob. If I run a second HDMI cable to my projector, is there a way I can connect everything so I only need to change inputs on the projector for 3d viewing (without adding a splitter)?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ The easiest solution is to play EVERYTHING from the player via that direct connection to the TV, not just 3D content. Meanwhile use a 2nd input on the TV for other sources you’d like to play through the Anthem.

The main thing you’ll lose is on screen displays from the Anthem (such as Volume) when viewing the disc player.

Note that depending on how the HDMI Inputs are implemented in the TV, you may run into a problem when using the disc player because the HDMI handshake is reaching the TV on two different inputs — one direct from the player and one coming via the Anthem. If that happens consider a remote controlled HDMI switch to automate disconnecting the HDMI from the Anthem to the TV when viewing the direct connection from the player. 
—Bob


----------



## Cinder11

I have one of the original AVM 50's that I pair with my 11 year old 65" Panasonic TV. (which is still working and has bee a great TV) I am in the process of researching 85 inch TV's. Will the AVM 50 still work with the new TV's? I am not much of a techie and just wondering if I have to upgrade the receiver also (which is still working great too).


----------



## AVfile

Cinder11 said:


> I have one of the original AVM 50's that I pair with my 11 year old 65" Panasonic TV. (which is still working and has bee a great TV) I am in the process of researching 85 inch TV's. Will the AVM 50 still work with the new TV's? I am not much of a techie and just wondering if I have to upgrade the receiver also (which is still working great too).


Yes, but you won’t be able to pass 3D or 4K through the AVM. Details on the workarounds are in the post previous to yours.


----------



## Cinder11

Thank you. Glad I can still use the AVM 50. When I decide on a TV I may have more question on the best way to set up the cables.


----------



## RGauld

Hi everyone! This is my first post here as I've recently acquired an Anthem AVM 50v... I have many, many questions regarding this unit as it is quite complicated to setup when I've been used to running Yamaha receivers previously... I guess I'll start with my latest ARC setup... I was wondering if someone could look at my setup and give me any pointers? Also, some of the settings on the AVM50 are confusing... I've spent a lot of time in this forum reading about running ARC and setting up the AVM50, so I guess my first question is:

1) I followed the recommendations as to setting up the AVM50 levels prior to running ARC, and I was unable to adjust the sub's polarity and phase settings... when I highlighted them, it wouldn't let me change the settings, and yet after uploading the ARC to the AVM50, I see that the settings in the AVM50 have indeed been changed... I thought ARC didn't modify these settings...

2) I can't seem to get the AVM50 to pass a 23.976 frame rate to the TV... when I'm playing a mkv file from my media player, the file is being output at 23.976fps, yet when I check the info on the TV, it shows 60fps... I don't know what I'm doing wrong....

I have many other questions, but these two are a good start...

Thanks in advance...


----------



## AVfile

RGauld said:


> 1) I followed the recommendations as to setting up the AVM50 levels prior to running ARC, and I was unable to adjust the sub's polarity and phase settings... when I highlighted them, it wouldn't let me change the settings, and yet after uploading the ARC to the AVM50, I see that the settings in the AVM50 have indeed been changed... I thought ARC didn't modify these settings...


Hi and welcome to the club!

Do the recommendations say to adjust sub polarity and phase in the Anthem or on the sub itself? I know the user manual pp.25-26 says you can but I have never touched these settings. I use ARC Quickmeasure feature to set my subs’ phase controls manually before running the full ARC routine. The fact that ARC uploads its own settings here is a good indication not to mess with them after. 



RGauld said:


> 2) I can't seem to get the AVM50 to pass a 23.976 frame rate to the TV... when I'm playing a mkv file from my media player, the file is being output at 23.976fps, yet when I check the info on the TV, it shows 60fps... I don't know what I'm doing wrong....


This is where the old Anthem video processor isn’t great. You need to setup two sources, e.g. DVD1 and DVD2 with the same input. Then set two video output configs, 1080p60 and 1080p24 as per p.17 on the user manual. Set DVD1 to use Config1 and DVD2 to use Config2. When you play a disc or file you just have to remember to select the appropriate source to match the frame rate. You can rename DVD1 to Media-60 and DVD2 to Media-24 or whatever to help you remember. 

What firmware version do you have?


----------



## RGauld

AVfile said:


> Hi and welcome to the club!
> 
> Do the recommendations say to adjust sub polarity and phase in the Anthem or on the sub itself? I know the user manual pp.25-26 says you can but I have never touched these settings. I use ARC Quickmeasure feature to set my subs’ phase controls manually before running the full ARC routine. The fact that ARC uploads its own settings here is a good indication not to mess with them after.
> 
> This is where the old Anthem video processor isn’t great. You need to setup two sources, e.g. DVD1 and DVD2 with the same input. Then set two video output configs, 1080p60 and 1080p24 as per p.17 on the user manual. Set DVD1 to use Config1 and DVD2 to use Config2. When you play a disc or file you just have to remember to select the appropriate source to match the frame rate. You can rename DVD1 to Media-60 and DVD2 to Media-24 or whatever to help you remember.
> 
> What firmware version do you have?


Thanks for the welcome! The recommendations say to adjust it in the Anthem itself... as I said, when I went to those settings in the Anthem, it wouldn't allow me to adjust them, or at least it didn't appear so. However, after uploading the ARC file, I wonder if it just didn't actually show me they were being adjusted (as the Anthem can be kind of slow to respond to the remote button pushing),
and showed me afterwards that they in fact had been adjusted by the remote... (confused? I know I am!) Several posts here say that those settings aren't changed by ARC, hence my question....

I see that looking at the manual on pg. 17 also says that "The AVM 50v allows four processed video output configurations, or Through (section 3.6)". Should I not pick "Through" if I want to pass whatever signal the media player is playing to the TV? Looking at page 33 (section 3.6), I see that if I pick "Through", I won't have any on-screen display...

The firmware version is another story.... I purchased the AVM 50v used, and when I connected it, it was v2.11. I tried contacting Anthem service to find out if it was the 3D version preamp (serial number 148120, see attached image), but they couldn't tell me by the serial number what version the AVM 50v .2 is... 3D or non 3D. So, to be on the safe side, I was told to upgrade the firmware
to v3.09.

Thanks for all your help! I hope you don't mind, but I will have many more questions... I do love the unit, however! I'm running it connected via xlr cables to an Anthem MCA 20 and MCA 50....
The sound quality combined with my Polk RTiA9's (mains), CSiA4 (center), Paradigm Millenia ADP's (surrounds) and Paradigm Sub15 is nothing short of awesome! Again, thanks for your time!


----------



## RGauld

Also, I should have asked... is there any way to tell if the unit is in fact the 3D version?


----------



## Kensmith48

When the unit is turned on it should say 3D in the display window.


----------



## AVfile

RGauld said:


> Also, I should have asked... is there any way to tell if the unit is in fact the 3D version?


I didn’t suggest using the Through option because I thought you had a non-3D model. When it powers up or if you press select to bring up the status it will say “AVM 50v 3D v3.xx” on the front panel and OSD if it is.

If not the best firmware version for the original “AVM 50v” is the 3.09j beta. It has some important fixes that the 3.09 release didn’t have.


----------



## AVfile

RGauld said:


> when I went to those settings in the Anthem, it wouldn't allow me to adjust them, or at least it didn't appear so. However, after uploading the ARC file, I wonder if it just didn't actually show me they were being adjusted (as the Anthem can be kind of slow to respond to the remote button pushing),
> and showed me afterwards that they in fact had been adjusted by the remote... (confused? I know I am!) Several posts here say that those settings aren't changed by ARC, hence my question....


I just checked mine and it allows me to change any setting in that menu. It is true that ARC does not set phase. I think the manual is correct when it says you can use these settings as a more convenient way of setting phase, I just forgot about that. So you should be able to play with that after uploading the ARC parameters without breaking the ARC solution. 



> Should I not pick "Through" if I want to pass whatever signal the media player is playing to the TV? Looking at page 33 (section 3.6), I see that if I pick "Through", I won't have any on-screen display...


If you have the option you can. I find the lack of OSD a problem and there are some quirks with the Through setting. I found HDMI output less stable without the Anthem video processor in the loop, at least with my projector, so I only use it when I have to for watching 3D.

If your unit came with v2.11 it is very unlikely you have the 3D board. That firmware is about 10 years old. When the 3D board was installed they would have installed v3.xx to complete the job.


----------



## RGauld

Kensmith48 said:


> When the unit is turned on it should say 3D in the display window.


The display window of the unit itself? I don't think it does... dang!


----------



## RGauld

AVfile said:


> I didn’t suggest using the Through option because I thought you had a non-3D model. When it powers up or if you press select to bring up the status it will say “AVM 50v 3D v3.xx” on the front panel and OSD if it is.
> 
> If not the best firmware version for the original “AVM 50v” is the 3.09j beta. It has some important fixes that the 3.09 release didn’t have.


Ok, how do I get v3.09j beta? it's not on the Anthem website, and I asked the folks at Anthem if there was a beta firmware available... they said no...


----------



## RGauld

AVfile said:


> I just checked mine and it allows me to change any setting in that menu. It is true that ARC does not set phase. I think the manual is correct when it says you can use these settings as a more convenient way of setting phase, I just forgot about that. So you should be able to play with that after uploading the ARC parameters without breaking the ARC solution.
> 
> 
> 
> If you have the option you can. I find the lack of OSD a problem and there are some quirks with the Through setting. I found HDMI output less stable without the Anthem video processor in the loop, at least with my projector, so I only use it when I have to for watching 3D.
> 
> If your unit came with v2.11 it is very unlikely you have the 3D board. That firmware is about 10 years old. When the 3D board was installed they would have installed v3.xx to complete the job.


Ok, thanks! I guess it's just the plain old non 3D version... dang!  So I guess my only question now is how do I obtain the v3.09j beta firmware if it's not on the Anthem website? (and also, why would the folks at Anthem service say there wasn't a beta firmware available?).


----------



## AVfile

RGauld said:


> Ok, thanks! I guess it's just the plain old non 3D version... dang!  So I guess my only question now is how do I obtain the v3.09j beta firmware if it's not on the Anthem website? (and also, why would the folks at Anthem service say there wasn't a beta firmware available?).


PM sent. 

Depending who you talk to at Anthem they may not be aware of the version history. There were several beta versions between 3.09 and 3.10 that worked with the non-3D model but they were focused mainly on fixing software bugs for the new 3D model at the time. At some point the code had to branch for the two models and 3.10 was the next full release with all the fixes but only works in 3D models. 

The non-3D model was discontinued so they obviously chose to abandon the old branch of software, with 3.09 being the last formal release. I was surprised they took down all the beta versions but it was obviously a management decision.


----------



## RGauld

AVfile said:


> I just checked mine and it allows me to change any setting in that menu. It is true that ARC does not set phase. I think the manual is correct when it says you can use these settings as a more convenient way of setting phase, I just forgot about that. So you should be able to play with that after uploading the ARC parameters without breaking the ARC solution.
> 
> 
> 
> If you have the option you can. I find the lack of OSD a problem and there are some quirks with the Through setting. I found HDMI output less stable without the Anthem video processor in the loop, at least with my projector, so I only use it when I have to for watching 3D.
> 
> If your unit came with v2.11 it is very unlikely you have the 3D board. That firmware is about 10 years old. When the 3D board was installed they would have installed v3.xx to complete the job.


So, should I reset the settings in the Anthem AVM 50v back to default for the sub phase and polarity?


----------



## AVfile

RGauld said:


> So, should I reset the settings in the Anthem AVM 50v back to default for the sub phase and polarity?


Set them by ear or SPL meter as per the manual. But not being able to set them or having them change later is weird. Maybe reset everything to default for now then try again after fresh firmware update.


----------



## ravichopra

I just picked up an old D2 for a nice price. Naturally, the wing-handles make it 0.25" to wide for my cabinet. Anyone have any tricks or tips for pulling the handles off? I don't want to disassemble more than I have to so if anyone has done this before and has thoughts, would appreciate it.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ravichopra said:


> I just picked up an old D2 for a nice price. Naturally, the wing-handles make it 0.25" to wide for my cabinet. Anyone have any tricks or tips for pulling the handles off? I don't want to disassemble more than I have to so if anyone has done this before and has thoughts, would appreciate it.


There are two, hidden Allen screws on each side -- only accessible from the INSIDE of the Front Panel.

Basically you have to take the cover off and then partially remove the Front Panel to access them. Good luck!

By the by, one of the reasons those wings were "standard" was to force some ventilation spacing between the sides of the D2 and the cabinet around it. If your cabinet space is too narrow to accommodate the side wings, think about whether you'll actually have enough ventilation space around the unit. For example, extra space above it (and open to outside air) to compensate for tight spacing on either side.
--Bob


----------



## jo5507

I removed the wings on mine several years ago. As Bob noted, you need to get at the hidden screws after the cover is off. I don't recall the specific steps, but it wasn't difficult.


----------



## ravichopra

Bob Pariseau said:


> There are two, hidden Allen screws on each side -- only accessible from the INSIDE of the Front Panel.
> 
> Basically you have to take the cover off and then partially remove the Front Panel to access them. Good luck!
> 
> By the by, one of the reasons those wings were "standard" was to force some ventilation spacing between the sides of the D2 and the cabinet around it. If your cabinet space is too narrow to accommodate the side wings, think about whether you'll actually have enough ventilation space around the unit. For example, extra space above it (and open to outside air) to compensate for tight spacing on either side.
> --Bob


I get where you're coming from. I'm pretty sure I'm OK, though. It's only 1/4" too narrow for the wings and the space has happily housed an AVM-50 for over a decade with no issues.

BTW, do you know if Anthem's beta firmwares are archived anywhere? I see 1.33 is the last "official" version for the D2 like it was for the AVM-50, but at one point early on I installed 1.47f on my AVM-50...


----------



## ravichopra

ravichopra said:


> I get where you're coming from. I'm pretty sure I'm OK, though. It's only 1/4" too narrow for the wings and the space has happily housed an AVM-50 for over a decade with no issues.
> 
> BTW, do you know if Anthem's beta firmwares are archived anywhere? I see 1.33 is the last "official" version for the D2 like it was for the AVM-50, but at one point early on I installed 1.47f on my AVM-50...





Bob Pariseau said:


> There are two, hidden Allen screws on each side -- only accessible from the INSIDE of the Front Panel.
> 
> Basically you have to take the cover off and then partially remove the Front Panel to access them. Good luck!
> 
> By the by, one of the reasons those wings were "standard" was to force some ventilation spacing between the sides of the D2 and the cabinet around it. If your cabinet space is too narrow to accommodate the side wings, think about whether you'll actually have enough ventilation space around the unit. For example, extra space above it (and open to outside air) to compensate for tight spacing on either side.
> --Bob


So I finally got the things off! So many bloody screws. For future reference, if anyone is trying to figure out how to take off the Anthem Statement D2 wing handles, here's what's necessary.

0.5) First - you'll be exposing the circuitry. Take all normal static precautions to avoid destroying your expensive toy.
1) Take out all the phillips head screws holding the shell on - they're on the top and sides. There are a lot, remove them all.
2) Look at the outside, bottom near the front lip. There are two phillips head screws that need to come out.
3) Look inside. You'll find 4 silver phillips head screws, 2 on either side of the front of the shell attaching the faceplate to the steel frame. Remove them all. Be careful, they all have locking washers behind them. The ones on the right (when facing the front of the unit) are hardest to get out because of a heat-sink on outside of a board on that side.
4) Look inside the top front lip. There are two small black screws which are a bit harder to see. These are the same as the ones attaching the board with the buttons and such to the front plate. You can take them out with either a square-head driver or a flat-head. Again take care - locking washers behind these as well.
5) Look behind the faceplate - you'll see s short wire-harness connecting the faceplate to the bottom circuit board. You may want to disconnect this. It comes out easily.
6) The faceplate should come off easily now.
7) On either side, you'll see 3 large phillips head screws holding each handle on. Each has a locking washer. Remove them and the handles come off easily.
8) Reverse everything to reassemble the unit.

-R


----------



## ravichopra

Does anyone have experience using the rear IR receivers on the D2? I just recently cut off the IR flashers to use the rear connection. Seemed to work well on my AVM-50, but switching the block to the back of the D2 I'm getting inconsistent response to remote button presses. I'd have thought with a hard-wired connection it would be more reliable than going through a flasher and receiver, but definitely acting funny. Does signal strength play strongly into response at the D2? The sending unit does have variable strength outputs, though I'd thought that was more important for IR to avoid overwhelming/underwhelming the receiver...

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Check the format your repeater is sending to the D2. There's more than one way to transmit wired "IR".
--Bob


----------



## ravichopra

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Check the format your repeater is sending to the D2. There's more than one way to transmit wired "IR".
> --Bob


Bob, I feel like I owe you sincere thanks. It's not just now, but repeatedly through the years working with my AVM-50 you've been repeatedly, directly and indirectly, exceedingly helpful. Your generosity is overwhelming.

I do have one more question I hope you (or someone) can help me with.
I've replaced an AVM-50 with a D2. I just reloaded my ARC settings that I'd used with the AVM into the D2 and it seemed to work fine. I then found instructions stating that each mic only worked with one pre-pro. The CDs with the ARC software have both mic and pre-pro S/Ns.
I then just replaced the two files with the mic & D2 s/ns on the PC I use for ARC. I only replaced those as the version of ARC on the D2 disc was older than the version I had with my AVM (which itself is only v 2.4). I reran the sweeps with the mic that came with the D2 and loaded them, all seeming to work OK.

My questions: 
1) would it have been OK to keep the original ARC adjustments I'd used with my AVM-50 or does the pre-pro unit itself really make a difference?
2) Is it OK just to replace the 2 files with the serial numbers (as well as using the matching mic), or did more need to change?
3) Is there any benefit to rerunning with the latest version of ARC-1 (3.0.4)? I've tried downloading it, but there seems to be a problem at the Anthemav download site where it's not allowing you to download the latest version. I do have a question in to Anthem on that front.

Best regards, 
-R


----------



## ravichopra

ravichopra said:


> Bob, I feel like I owe you sincere thanks. It's not just now, but repeatedly through the years working with my AVM-50 you've been repeatedly, directly and indirectly, exceedingly helpful. Your generosity is overwhelming.
> 
> I do have one more question I hope you (or someone) can help me with.
> I've replaced an AVM-50 with a D2. I just reloaded my ARC settings that I'd used with the AVM into the D2 and it seemed to work fine. I then found instructions stating that each mic only worked with one pre-pro. The CDs with the ARC software have both mic and pre-pro S/Ns.
> I then just replaced the two files with the mic & D2 s/ns on the PC I use for ARC. I only replaced those as the version of ARC on the D2 disc was older than the version I had with my AVM (which itself is only v 2.4). I reran the sweeps with the mic that came with the D2 and loaded them, all seeming to work OK.
> 
> My questions:
> 1) would it have been OK to keep the original ARC adjustments I'd used with my AVM-50 or does the pre-pro unit itself really make a difference?
> 2) Is it OK just to replace the 2 files with the serial numbers (as well as using the matching mic), or did more need to change?
> 3) Is there any benefit to rerunning with the latest version of ARC-1 (3.0.4)? I've tried downloading it, but there seems to be a problem at the Anthemav download site where it's not allowing you to download the latest version. I do have a question in to Anthem on that front.
> 
> Best regards,
> -R


Ugh, one more weird one.
I'm feeding the output of an OPPO BDP-83 to the D2 via HDMI. OPPO is set to HDMI out, PCM, LPCM, decode HDCD yes, and prefer Multi-channel SACD. Output resolution is set to 1080P (though I've tried Auto, 1080i, and native out).


ravichopra said:


> Bob, I feel like I owe you sincere thanks. It's not just now, but repeatedly through the years working with my AVM-50 you've been repeatedly, directly and indirectly, exceedingly helpful. Your generosity is overwhelming.
> 
> I do have one more question I hope you (or someone) can help me with.
> I've replaced an AVM-50 with a D2. I just reloaded my ARC settings that I'd used with the AVM into the D2 and it seemed to work fine. I then found instructions stating that each mic only worked with one pre-pro. The CDs with the ARC software have both mic and pre-pro S/Ns.
> I then just replaced the two files with the mic & D2 s/ns on the PC I use for ARC. I only replaced those as the version of ARC on the D2 disc was older than the version I had with my AVM (which itself is only v 2.4). I reran the sweeps with the mic that came with the D2 and loaded them, all seeming to work OK.
> 
> My questions:
> 1) would it have been OK to keep the original ARC adjustments I'd used with my AVM-50 or does the pre-pro unit itself really make a difference?
> 2) Is it OK just to replace the 2 files with the serial numbers (as well as using the matching mic), or did more need to change?
> 3) Is there any benefit to rerunning with the latest version of ARC-1 (3.0.4)? I've tried downloading it, but there seems to be a problem at the Anthemav download site where it's not allowing you to download the latest version. I do have a question in to Anthem on that front.
> 
> Best regards,
> -R


Ugh, one more weird one.

I'm feeding the output of an OPPO BDP-83 to the D2 via HDMI. The OPPO has the beta firmware which addresses HDMI issues when connected to HDMI 2.1 TVs. OPPO is set to HDMI out, SACD > PCM, HDMI > LPCM, decode HDCD yes, and SACD priority Multi-channel, LPCM output - tried all 3 rates. Output resolution is set to 1080P (though I've tried Auto, 1080i, and native out).

The D2 is inconsistently NOT playing 5.0 sound, but DOES play stereo with multi-layer SACDs. Problem is consistently with Kind Of Blue, where it will play sound when playing the SACD Stereo (definitely playing SACD, not CD) layer, but when playing the 5.0 multichannel layer (which the player absolutely is playing) the D2 produces no sound. 

I've tried all different output video resolutions. I've tried SACD set to both PCM and DSD (stereo works with both, MCh with neither).

Now here's what's strange. The D2 produces sound just fine with MCh on other SACDs (e.g. Warren Bernhardt "So Real").

Driving me bananas. If anyone has any ideas I'd be grateful.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ravichopra said:


> Bob, I feel like I owe you sincere thanks. It's not just now, but repeatedly through the years working with my AVM-50 you've been repeatedly, directly and indirectly, exceedingly helpful. Your generosity is overwhelming.
> 
> I do have one more question I hope you (or someone) can help me with.
> I've replaced an AVM-50 with a D2. I just reloaded my ARC settings that I'd used with the AVM into the D2 and it seemed to work fine. I then found instructions stating that each mic only worked with one pre-pro. The CDs with the ARC software have both mic and pre-pro S/Ns.
> I then just replaced the two files with the mic & D2 s/ns on the PC I use for ARC. I only replaced those as the version of ARC on the D2 disc was older than the version I had with my AVM (which itself is only v 2.4). I reran the sweeps with the mic that came with the D2 and loaded them, all seeming to work OK.
> 
> My questions:
> 1) would it have been OK to keep the original ARC adjustments I'd used with my AVM-50 or does the pre-pro unit itself really make a difference?
> 2) Is it OK just to replace the 2 files with the serial numbers (as well as using the matching mic), or did more need to change?
> 3) Is there any benefit to rerunning with the latest version of ARC-1 (3.0.4)? I've tried downloading it, but there seems to be a problem at the Anthemav download site where it's not allowing you to download the latest version. I do have a question in to Anthem on that front.
> 
> Best regards,
> -R


When you swap hardware models you should definitely redo the ARC setup. The units do not have identical hardware for processing the ARC parameters. The ARC software on your computer builds a solution intended for use with the Anthem unit you used during the Measurements.

Swapping in the correct, two files -- matching the mic you are using -- is the correct thing to do. The licensing restriction was relaxed by Anthem once ARC came bundled with everything, but you still need to have the correct mic calibration file in place.

Note that not every Anthem mic will work with every hardware unit. Some mics are too new to use with older hardware. Some mics are too old to use with newer hardware. Use the mic that came with the D2, or check with Anthem whether the mic serial number you have is OK to use with the D2 serial number you have.

I've not been tracking what's up with Anthems downloads recently.
--Bob


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^^ Typically loss of sound like this would mean the player isn't happy with the Copy Protection check, so it is Muting its output.

Get in touch with OPPO Digital Tech Support (use the Email Us link on their Support page for the player), and see if they have any history on this particular SACD disc.
--Bob


----------



## AVfile

ravichopra said:


> I've tried all different output video resolutions. I've tried SACD set to both PCM and DSD (stereo works with both, MCh with neither).


That’s odd, the D2 definitely does not support DSD. I don’t remember if the BDP83 has DTS NEO. Make sure it is not trying to upmix to 6.1 or 7.1. The D2 (original non-v version) is limited to 5.1 LPCM, although I don’t know if the symptom would be no sound at all. 

You might find this comparison chart helpful:



https://www.anthemav.com/downloads/avm50_ComparisonChart.pdf



I sometimes get no audio issues when playing a SACD with the TV/projector off. The Anthem video processor likes to have a display connected, at least initially when you start playback it seems to keep the HDMI gods happy. 

PS: The comparison chart also shows the AVM-50 (non v-version) has a weaker DSP than the other models. The D2 has the more powerful one like the D2v, which is why Bob recommended rerunning ARC in your case.


----------



## ravichopra

AVfile said:


> That’s odd, the D2 definitely does not support DSD. I don’t remember if the BDP83 has DTS NEO. Make sure it is not trying to upmix to 6.1 or 7.1. The D2 (original non-v version) is limited to 5.1 LPCM, although I don’t know if the symptom would be no sound at all.
> 
> You might find this comparison chart helpful:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.anthemav.com/downloads/avm50_ComparisonChart.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> I sometimes get no audio issues when playing a SACD with the TV/projector off. The Anthem video processor likes to have a display connected, at least initially when you start playback it seems to keep the HDMI gods happy.
> 
> PS: The comparison chart also shows the AVM-50 (non v-version) has a weaker DSP than the other models. The D2 has the more powerful one like the D2v, which is why Bob recommended rerunning ARC in your case.


Yea, I thought that was strange also. I knew DSD should NOT work with the D2, but was just flipping different settings to see what results I got to try to sort it out. DSD SACD setting on the OPPO absolutely 100% definitely plays through the D2 on stereo, but not multichannel. I'm guessing it must be some sort of firmware glitch. Regardless, MCh doesn't play through the D2 on either PCM or DSD. Working with OPPO to sort it out.

Thanks for the note. Helpful.


----------



## ravichopra

Another tip for people with legacy Anthem tech looking for help. This time on downloading the latest ARC-1 software.

1) First, there was apparently was a substantial change between 2.4 and 3.0.4. They specifically recommend rerunning ARC measurements after the update. If you buy a used unit and it comes with a CD with the ARC software, check the version, you may have an older version, in which case you'll want to download the last version of ARC-1 released.

2) The webpage (https://anthemarc.com/downloads/index.php) specifically says to enter the microphone s/n to download the software. This does NOT work. Enter the pre-pro or receiver s/n and it downloads fine with the correct calibration files.


----------



## ravichopra

ravichopra said:


> Yea, I thought that was strange also. I knew DSD should NOT work with the D2, but was just flipping different settings to see what results I got to try to sort it out. DSD SACD setting on the OPPO absolutely 100% definitely plays through the D2 on stereo, but not multichannel. I'm guessing it must be some sort of firmware glitch. Regardless, MCh doesn't play through the D2 on either PCM or DSD. Working with OPPO to sort it out.
> 
> Thanks for the note. Helpful.


So here's the latest on this issue:
OPPO BDP-83 disc player connected to the D2 via HDMI. The D2 is on firmware 1.47f, the OPPO is similarly running it's most current firmware. The OPPO is set to output LPCM via HDMI, to decode HDCDs, and to output SACD via PCM (as I know the D2 can't decode DSD). I'm having a strange situation where a number of dual layer SACDs are seen by the D2 correctly as PCM out when playing the stereo SACD layer, but reads "Digital" on the D2 front panel when switched to multichannel and produces no sound.

Occasionally, if playing MCh when first started up, the D2 will see the multichannel output as PCM and will put out sound normally, but most of the time it shows "PCM" for a moment, then switches to "Digital" on the display. As a result, it would seem that the OPPO is in fact putting out PCM for both, but that there's some problem with the D2 recognizing and locking into the PCM signal with multichannel output for some reason I have not been able to sort out.

The video output from the OPPO shows both streams (stereo SACD and MCh SACD) as PCM output, so the disc player certainly believes it is sending out a PCM signal as well.

This behavior has been observed on David Chesky "Area 31", Dave Brubeck "Take Five", Miles Davis "Kind of Blue" SACDs. All playing fine on stereo, but failing on multichannel.

Strangely, Warren Bernhardt "So Real" works correctly with both stereo and MCh playing correctly through the D2. Multichannel DVD-A discs appear to work correctly as well.

Have been back and forth with OPPO support (who, incidentally, are amazingly responsive despite the fact that they effectively don't exist as an A/V company any longer). Their opinion is that if it's not isolated to one disc, the problem would appear on ALL discs - "So Real" breaks that. The fact that the Anthem will on rare occasion lock onto PCM with MCh along with the consistent OPPO indication that it's sending PCM seems to support that as well. I've put the question to Anthem & hoping to get their thoughts back soon.


----------



## AVfile

ravichopra said:


> The OPPO is set to output LPCM via HDMI, to decode HDCDs, and to output SACD via PCM (as I know the D2 can't decode DSD).


This won’t be good for blu-ray playback on your D2, but try setting HDMI Audio to Bitstream and keep SACD Output as PCM. Secondary Audio should also be Off. This will ensure the Oppo decoder is not messing around with the signal prior to output.


----------



## ravichopra

AVfile said:


> This won’t be good for blu-ray playback on your D2, but try setting HDMI Audio to Bitstream and keep SACD Output as PCM. Secondary Audio should also be Off. This will ensure the Oppo decoder is not messing around with the signal prior to output.


Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately no luck with bitstream. Secondary Audio has been off the entire time, so that's not an issue. Also tried swapping HDMI cables because why not. No luck with all.


----------



## AVfile

ravichopra said:


> Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately no luck with bitstream. Secondary Audio has been off the entire time, so that's not an issue. Also tried swapping HDMI cables because why not. No luck with all.


This is truly a bizarre problem. Did you try with TV on/off to see if there’s a difference?

The only other thing I could suggest is going back to the official (1.33?) firmware.


----------



## ravichopra

AVfile said:


> This is truly a bizarre problem. Did you try with TV on/off to see if there’s a difference?
> 
> The only other thing I could suggest is going back to the official (1.33?) firmware.


TV on/off no diff.
Rolling back is an interesting idea. Original reason I went to 1.47f a million years ago was to address video issues which aren't really relevant now.... Will probably wait to hear back from Anthem. Betting they suggest the same thing, but hoping for a better answer that doesn't require me to reconfigure everything again.


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## ravichopra

ravichopra said:


> TV on/off no diff.
> Rolling back is an interesting idea. Original reason I went to 1.47f a million years ago was to address video issues which aren't really relevant now.... Will probably wait to hear back from Anthem. Betting they suggest the same thing, but hoping for a better answer that doesn't require me to reconfigure everything again.


Should note I didn't have this issue on the AVM-50 on 1.47f.


----------



## AVfile

ravichopra said:


> Should note I didn't have this issue on the AVM-50 on 1.47f.


That implies it is settings related (or a hardware problem with the D2). You can save user settings to memory and do a factory reset.


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## ravichopra

AVfile said:


> That implies it is settings related (or a hardware problem with the D2). You can save user settings to memory and do a factory reset.


I just got this D2 and updated to 1.47f which returned it to factory settings. I've done very little apart from running ARC and some very basic setup as I use it only for audio. If I reset it again I'd just repeat the same basic settings, so I'm a little reluctant to go that route...

I'm hoping Anthem has some ideas.

I do appreciate you thoughts though. People in this forum are remarkably generous.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ravichopra said:


> So here's the latest on this issue:
> OPPO BDP-83 disc player connected to the D2 via HDMI. The D2 is on firmware 1.47f, the OPPO is similarly running it's most current firmware. The OPPO is set to output LPCM via HDMI, to decode HDCDs, and to output SACD via PCM (as I know the D2 can't decode DSD). I'm having a strange situation where a number of dual layer SACDs are seen by the D2 correctly as PCM out when playing the stereo SACD layer, but reads "Digital" on the D2 front panel when switched to multichannel and produces no sound.
> 
> Occasionally, if playing MCh when first started up, the D2 will see the multichannel output as PCM and will put out sound normally, but most of the time it shows "PCM" for a moment, then switches to "Digital" on the display. As a result, it would seem that the OPPO is in fact putting out PCM for both, but that there's some problem with the D2 recognizing and locking into the PCM signal with multichannel output for some reason I have not been able to sort out.
> 
> The video output from the OPPO shows both streams (stereo SACD and MCh SACD) as PCM output, so the disc player certainly believes it is sending out a PCM signal as well.
> 
> This behavior has been observed on David Chesky "Area 31", Dave Brubeck "Take Five", Miles Davis "Kind of Blue" SACDs. All playing fine on stereo, but failing on multichannel.
> 
> Strangely, Warren Bernhardt "So Real" works correctly with both stereo and MCh playing correctly through the D2. Multichannel DVD-A discs appear to work correctly as well.
> 
> Have been back and forth with OPPO support (who, incidentally, are amazingly responsive despite the fact that they effectively don't exist as an A/V company any longer). Their opinion is that if it's not isolated to one disc, the problem would appear on ALL discs - "So Real" breaks that. The fact that the Anthem will on rare occasion lock onto PCM with MCh along with the consistent OPPO indication that it's sending PCM seems to support that as well. I've put the question to Anthem & hoping to get their thoughts back soon.


Check to see what _VIDEO_ resolution the OPPO is sending when the audio fails. You need to send 720p or higher to get the multi-channel LPCM to work. (HDMI audio is always embedded inside an HDMI video stream, and video below 720p resolution does not provide enough space to send higher bandwidth audio.)
--Bob


----------



## ravichopra

Bob Pariseau said:


> Check to see what _VIDEO_ resolution the OPPO is sending when the audio fails. You need to send 720p or higher to get the multi-channel LPCM to work. (HDMI audio is always embedded inside an HDMI video stream, and video below 720p resolution does not provide enough space to send higher bandwidth audio.)
> --Bob


Bob, when I said you've been of help to me directly and indirectly, I meant it. I read a post of yours from years ago to that effect. I've had the OPPO set to an output resolution of 1080p (also tried 1080i). I actually mentioned it a few posts back.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

ravichopra said:


> Bob, when I said you've been of help to me directly and indirectly, I meant it. I read a post of yours from years ago to that effect. I've had the OPPO set to an output resolution of 1080p (also tried 1080i). I actually mentioned it a few posts back.


The most likely problem, then, is that you are getting a Copy Protection failure during the HDMI handshake, which results in the audio output being muted. (The D2 may show Digital instead of No Signal when this happens because the video stream is still present on the HDMI cable.)

The most likely cause of a Copy Protection failure is a marginal HDMI connection -- i.e., the cables. Even if you are using new cables, the ones you got might be faulty, or kinks in the newly unpackaged cables may be tugging on the plugs.

First, HDMI is only friction fit, and it just takes a small shift of plug in socket to screw things up. Start by unplugging and re-plugging each end of each HDMI cable. HDMI is an end to end protocol, so do this all the way from the player through to the TV. When re-plugging the HDMI cables, make sure they are each fully inserted, straight into the socket, with nothing (e.g., cable weight or kinks in the cable) tugging on the plug in any direction. Then test again.

If that doesn't fix it, then replace all the HDMI cables in the signal path (i.e., including the output cable from the D2 to the TV). What you want to get is cables labeled "Premium Certified" -- they will feature a fancy hologram logo also saying just that. These need not be expensive. See Monoprice.com for example. Accept no substitutes! For example, cables labeled "High Speed" are not the same thing.

For best results each cable should be 6 feet (2 meters) in length, _EVEN IF_ you don't need a cable that long for a given connection. The cables should be connected directly between each pair of devices, with nothing else in the signal path: I.e., no short length "port savers", no daisy chaining of cables, no adapters, no HDMI switches, no HDMI gizmos of any kind, and no "wall plates" -- the things used to tidy up the ends of cabling running through the walls. If necessary, bypass any such things while testing and see if that fixes your problem (using the new cables).

If still no luck, try this: Physically disconnect the HDMI cable from the D2 to your TV. Also try a different input on the D2 from the 83. Test your 5.1 SACDs using the front panels on the 83 and D2 for guidance (since you won't have TV video).

--Bob


----------



## ravichopra

Bob Pariseau said:


> The most likely problem, then, is that you are getting a Copy Protection failure during the HDMI handshake, which results in the audio output being muted. (The D2 may show Digital instead of No Signal when this happens because the video stream is still present on the HDMI cable.)
> 
> The most likely cause of a Copy Protection failure is a marginal HDMI connection -- i.e., the cables. Even if you are using new cables, the ones you got might be faulty, or kinks in the newly unpackaged cables may be tugging on the plugs.
> 
> First, HDMI is only friction fit, and it just takes a small shift of plug in socket to screw things up. Start by unplugging and re-plugging each end of each HDMI cable. HDMI is an end to end protocol, so do this all the way from the player through to the TV. When re-plugging the HDMI cables, make sure they are each fully inserted, straight into the socket, with nothing (e.g., cable weight or kinks in the cable) tugging on the plug in any direction. Then test again.
> 
> If that doesn't fix it, then replace all the HDMI cables in the signal path (i.e., including the output cable from the D2 to the TV). What you want to get is cables labeled "Premium Certified" -- they will feature a fancy hologram logo also saying just that. These need not be expensive. See Monoprice.com for example. Accept no substitutes! For example, cables labeled "High Speed" are not the same thing.
> 
> For best results each cable should be 6 feet (2 meters) in length, _EVEN IF_ you don't need a cable that long for a given connection. The cables should be connected directly between each pair of devices, with nothing else in the signal path: I.e., no short length "port savers", no daisy chaining of cables, no adapters, no HDMI switches, no HDMI gizmos of any kind, and no "wall plates" -- the things used to tidy up the ends of cabling running through the walls. If necessary, bypass any such things while testing and see if that fixes your problem (using the new cables).
> 
> If still no luck, try this: Physically disconnect the HDMI cable from the D2 to your TV. Also try a different input on the D2 from the 83. Test your 5.1 SACDs using the front panels on the 83 and D2 for guidance (since you won't have TV video).
> 
> --Bob


This is EXTREMELY helpful! I already have both a new cable (Monoprice 8K certified) on the way to test, as well as another SACD player to see if the problem repeats with a different unit. While I'm waiting for those, I'll try swapping around the cables I do have and checking the integrity of the connection.

Still it seems strange that I wouldn't have this problem at all with one disc (which I've tried repeatedly, flipping back and forth between stereo and MCh), but do see it with others. If it was a physical connection issue I'd expect it to happen with all discs, not just certain ones.

If it isn't something funny with the D2 (Anthem basically said it should be working and they've got no suggestions), I wonder if the BDP-83 could be acting goofy. It's an old disc player and the tray has been acting janky. Hopefully trying a different universal player (Sony X800M2) will reveal if the D2 or Oppo is the culprit if cable swapping doesn't fix it.

Regardless, my sincere thanks again for the detailed help.


----------



## ravichopra

ravichopra said:


> This is EXTREMELY helpful! I already have both a new cable (Monoprice 8K certified) on the way to test, as well as another SACD player to see if the problem repeats with a different unit. While I'm waiting for those, I'll try swapping around the cables I do have and checking the integrity of the connection.
> 
> Still it seems strange that I wouldn't have this problem at all with one disc (which I've tried repeatedly, flipping back and forth between stereo and MCh), but do see it with others. If it was a physical connection issue I'd expect it to happen with all discs, not just certain ones.
> 
> If it isn't something funny with the D2 (Anthem basically said it should be working and they've got no suggestions), I wonder if the BDP-83 could be acting goofy. It's an old disc player and the tray has been acting janky. Hopefully trying a different universal player (Sony X800M2) will reveal if the D2 or Oppo is the culprit if cable swapping doesn't fix it.
> 
> Regardless, my sincere thanks again for the detailed help.


I'm now convinced the problem resides in the D2. My old OPPO has been acting a bit funky (tray issues), so I picked up a Sony UBP-X800M2 - brand new, fully updated. 

Exact same behavior. 

Sony is set to output PCM via HDMI. Stereo SACD layer picked up as PCM by the D2 & play fine. MCh reads digital and no sound.

The Sony is connected via 2 different HDMI cables - 1 video to the TV, a separate one to the D2 with the D2 completely disconnected from the TV - only taking sound in. I've tried reseating the HDMI cables, swapping out different ones, and switching to a different D2 HDMI input. Same behavior.

Is there any chance it could be the 1.47f firmware? Worth rolling back to 1.33?


----------



## ravichopra

ravichopra said:


> I'm now convinced the problem resides in the D2. My old OPPO has been acting a bit funky (tray issues), so I picked up a Sony UBP-X800M2 - brand new, fully updated.
> 
> Exact same behavior.
> 
> Sony is set to output PCM via HDMI. Stereo SACD layer picked up as PCM by the D2 & play fine. MCh reads digital and no sound.
> 
> The Sony is connected via 2 different HDMI cables - 1 video to the TV, a separate one to the D2 with the D2 completely disconnected from the TV - only taking sound in. I've tried reseating the HDMI cables, swapping out different ones, and switching to a different D2 HDMI input. Same behavior.
> 
> Is there any chance it could be the 1.47f firmware? Worth rolling back to 1.33?


So things are now stranger.

I picked up a Thenaudio Sharc eARC converter to allow me to get full 5 channel audio from other sources I'm running to the TV directly (LG CX). This thing is terrific and seems to work perfectly with audio from a TiVo and Chromecast run through the TV.

I decided to give it a shot with the SACD audio run through the TV (which is outputting eARC PCM audio through HDMI).
Both Stereo AND multichannel play through the D2 this way. I probably have some setting in the Sharc wrong as it's quiet and there's a ton of base-level staticy noise, but the Multichannel audio DOES play through the D2 when it gets to it this way.


----------



## ravichopra

I'm trying to downgrade a D2 to V1.33 firmware (from 1.47f), but I'm getting a "Cannot connect to DKI boot loader error". The video settings editor connects just fine as does ARC when uploading settings. Apart from the problem recognizing multichannel SACD PCM signals it's working correctly.

Any thoughts? I figured it was worth a shot going down to the official firmware to see if that addressed the issue, but I can't get past this error.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Talk to Anthem. They can give you a Windows utility program which will force the hardware into a state to accept the firmware install. 
—Bob


----------



## ravichopra

Bob Pariseau said:


> Talk to Anthem. They can give you a Windows utility program which will force the hardware into a state to accept the firmware install.
> —Bob


Does anyone have this utility program handy? They're saying their units' firmware can't be downgraded.


----------



## ravichopra

ravichopra said:


> Does anyone have this utility program handy? They're saying their units' firmware can't be downgraded.


I pressed them on it. They insist that no such downgrading software exists.


----------



## AVfile

ravichopra said:


> I pressed them on it. They insist that no such downgrading software exists.


I thought the day would come. Support folks at Anthem probably haven’t been around long enough or have such great memory as Bob! 

I never had to use the FLASH ERASER utility so I don’t have it, sorry. But I do recall people in this forum using it in the past, when they had bricked units due to failed firmware updates (I think). It’s not specifically for “downgrading” but more of a rescue tool that zeroizes corrupt memory.


----------



## AVfile

Nick @ Anthem said:


> ^ Any recollection of the error message, e.g. failed eeprom programming?
> 
> 
> Knowing it would really help but if you don't remember, try Flash Eraser. It's on the same page as the beta software. Download Data Analyzer too in case it's needed later. Then try v2.14d again. If Flash Eraser doesn't unlock it, send an e-mail to [email protected] and further instructions will follow.


Hey Nick, we need you!


----------



## ravichopra

AVfile said:


> Hey Nick, we need you!


I remember Nick! He was incredibly helpful to me when I first bought my AVM-50 from a local dealer (now closed) some years ago.

A good fellow on the forum was kind enough to forward me a copy of "Flash Eraser v2.3 (AVM 20-HD and up).exe". Hoping this is the right answer. I would assume this would delete my saved settings, but that's fine if it gets me back to a state where I can install 1.33 (or whatever I wanted).


----------



## ravichopra

ravichopra said:


> I remember Nick! He was incredibly helpful to me when I first bought my AVM-50 from a local dealer (now closed) some years ago.
> 
> A good fellow on the forum was kind enough to forward me a copy of "Flash Eraser v2.3 (AVM 20-HD and up).exe". Hoping this is the right answer. I would assume this would delete my saved settings, but that's fine if it gets me back to a state where I can install 1.33 (or whatever I wanted).


Anthem tech support is claiming a special cable is required to use Flash Eraser. As it looks like it used to be distributed on the beta software page this doesn't sound right unless it's a serial cable, in which case it's more obsolete than "special". I have an old laptop with a serial cable I use for this sort of stuff. Does anyone know for certain here? 

The help is, as always, deeply appreciated.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Flash Eraser does not require a special cable. There was ANOTHER software tool needed if the problem was that the video board was not responding, and THAT tool required a special cable connected directly to the video board -- i.e., open up the chassis lid and pray....

Flash Eraser does erase your Saved settings.

Flash Eraser forces the various parts of the Anthem -- separately updated during the firmware update -- into a receptive state for a firmware install. (With the exception of that persnickety problem which could occur with the video board, just mentioned).

Now, I've not had a D2 for a LONG time, and I've not had to use Flash Eraser with my D2v 3D for almost as long. So I've no idea whether the Flash Eraser you have will actually work under the current version of Windows.

Also note, the Rule of Thumb with Flash Eraser was to run it 2 or 3 times, "to be sure".

--------------------

Before trying Flash Eraser, make sure you are doing the firmware install correctly. In particular, do a Reset Factory Defaults on the D2 before attempting to do the firmware install. Among other things, this forces the RS-232c port on the Anthem into the proper configuration to work with the firmware install.
--Bob


----------



## ravichopra

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Flash Eraser does not require a special cable. There was ANOTHER software tool needed if the problem was that the video board was not responding, and THAT tool required a special cable connected directly to the video board -- i.e., open up the chassis lid and pray....
> 
> Flash Eraser does erase your Saved settings.
> 
> Flash Eraser forces the various parts of the Anthem -- separately updated during the firmware update -- into a receptive state for a firmware install. (With the exception of that persnickety problem which could occur with the video board, just mentioned).
> 
> Now, I've not had a D2 for a LONG time, and I've not had to use Flash Eraser with my D2v 3D for almost as long. So I've no idea whether the Flash Eraser you have will actually work under the current version of Windows.
> 
> Also note, the Rule of Thumb with Flash Eraser was to run it 2 or 3 times, "to be sure".
> 
> --------------------
> 
> Before trying Flash Eraser, make sure you are doing the firmware install correctly. In particular, do a Reset Factory Defaults on the D2 before attempting to do the firmware install. Among other things, this forces the RS-232c port on the Anthem into the proper configuration to work with the firmware install.
> --Bob


Thanks again for the help as it appears Anthem is ducking out on this saying "we cannot help you with this."

Disappointing from them, but very encouraging to know there are so many helpful people still on this forum.


----------



## RGauld

I'm having a very perplexing issue with my recently acquired AVM 50v.... I had it running perfectly with no issues and then I changed the furniture it was on.... This of course required disconnecting everything and moving all the equipment, and then reconnecting everything... Somehow in that process, the HDMI output(s) on the AVM 50v have become almost unusable now... I often get no signal to the tv at all, and after unplugging the HDMI output and plugging it back in several times, I can sometimes get a picture... I've tried changing cables, using the zone 2 output, etc... nothing.... I also noticed that if I very slightly wiggle the cable on the HDMI output on the back of the AVM 50v, the TV will sometimes go all purple, or red, or blocky images... after several attempts to isolate the problem, I can't seem to find out why it's doing this... frustrating to say the least as it was working perfectly before I moved it.... Any help would be appreciated.... Could it be a firmware issue? if so, how do I go about getting this flash eraser utility so I can make sure the AVM 50v is in a state to accept the v3.09j firmware if I have to re-flash it?


----------



## MitchPope

RGauld said:


> I'm having a very perplexing issue with my recently acquired AVM 50v.... I had it running perfectly with no issues and then I changed the furniture it was on.... This of course required disconnecting everything and moving all the equipment, and then reconnecting everything... Somehow in that process, the HDMI output(s) on the AVM 50v have become almost unusable now... I often get no signal to the tv at all, and after unplugging the HDMI output and plugging it back in several times, I can sometimes get a picture... I've tried changing cables, using the zone 2 output, etc... nothing.... I also noticed that if I very slightly wiggle the cable on the HDMI output on the back of the AVM 50v, the TV will sometimes go all purple, or red, or blocky images... after several attempts to isolate the problem, I can't seem to find out why it's doing this... frustrating to say the least as it was working perfectly before I moved it.... Any help would be appreciated.... Could it be a firmware issue? if so, how do I go about getting this flash eraser utility so I can make sure the AVM 50v is in a state to accept the v3.09j firmware if I have to re-flash it?


You can just re-flash the firmware, you don't need the flash eraser utility unless it bricks. The important thing is doing a factory reset before you start the process. Reflashing my D2v helped with some weird video issues I had when my menu stopped coming up on screen, but yours almost sounds like a loose HDMI connection. Maybe the board inside shifted a bit when it was moved??


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RGauld said:


> I'm having a very perplexing issue with my recently acquired AVM 50v.... I had it running perfectly with no issues and then I changed the furniture it was on.... This of course required disconnecting everything and moving all the equipment, and then reconnecting everything... Somehow in that process, the HDMI output(s) on the AVM 50v have become almost unusable now... I often get no signal to the tv at all, and after unplugging the HDMI output and plugging it back in several times, I can sometimes get a picture... I've tried changing cables, using the zone 2 output, etc... nothing.... I also noticed that if I very slightly wiggle the cable on the HDMI output on the back of the AVM 50v, the TV will sometimes go all purple, or red, or blocky images... after several attempts to isolate the problem, I can't seem to find out why it's doing this... frustrating to say the least as it was working perfectly before I moved it.... Any help would be appreciated.... Could it be a firmware issue? if so, how do I go about getting this flash eraser utility so I can make sure the AVM 50v is in a state to accept the v3.09j firmware if I have to re-flash it?


Sounds like either a faulty HDMI cable or you've managed to damage the socket.

Trying new cables is easier. Be sure to get Premium Certified cables (with the fancy hologram logo saying just that). "High Speed" is not the same thing. These need not be expensive. See Monoprice.com for example.

Make sure the HDMI plugs are fully inserted straight into the sockets, with nothing (e.g., cable weight or kinks in the cable) tugging on the plug in any direction.
--Bob


----------



## RGauld

MitchPope said:


> You can just re-flash the firmware, you don't need the flash eraser utility unless it bricks. The important thing is doing a factory reset before you start the process. Reflashing my D2v helped with some weird video issues I had when my menu stopped coming up on screen, but yours almost sounds like a loose HDMI connection. Maybe the board inside shifted a bit when it was moved??


That is my fear, that somehow the HDMI connection is damaged, although I don't see how... I'm always extremely careful plugging/unplugging HDMI cables... I have done a lot of reading on the firmware update procedure, and I think I want to completely erase the firmware first before I try re-flashing it again, as the last time I upgraded to v3.09j, I had to try several times before it went through... maybe something happened then?


----------



## RGauld

Bob Pariseau said:


> Sounds like either a faulty HDMI cable or you've managed to damage the socket.
> 
> Trying new cables is easier. Be sure to get Premium Certified cables (with the fancy hologram logo saying just that). "High Speed" is not the same thing. These need not be expensive. See Monoprice.com for example.
> 
> Make sure the HDMI plugs are fully inserted straight into the sockets, with nothing (e.g., cable weight or kinks in the cable) tugging on the plug in any direction.
> --Bob


As I said, I've tried 3 different cables, all have the same issue... The thing is, it was working perfectly before, so I'm pretty sure it's not the cable...


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RGauld said:


> As I said, I've tried 3 different cables, all have the same issue... The thing is, it was working perfectly before, so I'm pretty sure it's not the cable...


You'd be surprised how easily a working HDMI cable can "go bad".

If you are convinced it's not the cable, then get a flashlight and take a good look into the socket checking for bent pins. That, and opening up the chassis to see if the HDMI supply board still seems to be attached properly are really the only things you can do yourself for a "bad socket".

Keep in mind HDMI is an end to end protocol, so EVERYTHING in the HDMI signal path from the source device, through the Anthem, to the TV should be suspect. That means the full set of cables end to end, plus anything else in the signal path such as shorty port savers, adapters, switches, or wall plates (used to tidy up the ends of in wall cabling) should be suspect.

The fact that you can alter the HDMI signal by wiggling the cable near that socket certainly points to a plug/socket problem at that point, but doesn't eliminate the root cause being elsewhere. HDMI is just friction fit, and it only takes a small shift of plug in socket to screw things up. So your wiggle test may just be indicating a poor mechanical fit of that plug in that socket.
--Bob


----------



## RGauld

ravichopra said:


> Anthem tech support is claiming a special cable is required to use Flash Eraser. As it looks like it used to be distributed on the beta software page this doesn't sound right unless it's a serial cable, in which case it's more obsolete than "special". I have an old laptop with a serial cable I use for this sort of stuff. Does anyone know for certain here?
> 
> The help is, as always, deeply appreciated.


I'm having the same issue with Anthem service... Their reply was:
"We do not have a flash tool to send out, we have a specific OEM cable and procedure we do here."
Is there anyone here on this forum who has access to this Flash Eraser software?


----------



## RGauld

Bob Pariseau said:


> You'd be surprised how easily a working HDMI cable can "go bad".
> 
> If you are convinced it's not the cable, then get a flashlight and take a good look into the socket checking for bent pins. That, and opening up the chassis to see if the HDMI supply board still seems to be attached properly are really the only things you can do yourself for a "bad socket".
> 
> Keep in mind HDMI is an end to end protocol, so EVERYTHING in the HDMI signal path from the source device, through the Anthem, to the TV should be suspect. That means the full set of cables end to end, plus anything else in the signal path such as shorty port savers, adapters, switches, or wall plates (used to tidy up the ends of in wall cabling) should be suspect.
> 
> The fact that you can alter the HDMI signal by wiggling the cable near that socket certainly points to a plug/socket problem at that point, but doesn't eliminate the root cause being elsewhere. HDMI is just friction fit, and it only takes a small shift of plug in socket to screw things up. So your wiggle test may just be indicating a poor mechanical fit of that plug in that socket.
> --Bob


Well, I have replaced all the HDMI cables using the Monoprice certified cables.... same problem... I can use the zone 2 hdmi output (works, but no on-screen display), but the HDMI 1 output is non-functional... I guess I will have to send it to Anthem for service, which is unfortunate, as it will cost me a fortune in both repair costs and shipping...


----------



## AVfile

RGauld said:


> Well, I have replaced all the HDMI cables using the Monoprice certified cables.... same problem... I can use the zone 2 hdmi output (works, but no on-screen display), but the HDMI 1 output is non-functional... I guess I will have to send it to Anthem for service, which is unfortunate, as it will cost me a fortune in both repair costs and shipping...


What about Bob’s second paragraph where you inspects the pins and lift the cover?


----------



## stoyan1508

ravichopra said:


> I remember Nick! He was incredibly helpful to me when I first bought my AVM-50 from a local dealer (now closed) some years ago.
> 
> A good fellow on the forum was kind enough to forward me a copy of "Flash Eraser v2.3 (AVM 20-HD and up).exe". Hoping this is the right answer. I would assume this would delete my saved settings, but that's fine if it gets me back to a state where I can install 1.33 (or whatever I wanted).


hello, did you find a solution to your issue?
also, would it be possible to get a copy of the Flash Eraser file please?


----------



## RGauld

AVfile said:


> What about Bob’s second paragraph where you inspects the pins and lift the cover





AVfile said:


> What about Bob’s second paragraph where you inspects the pins and lift the cover?


I'm afraid my eyes aren't what they used to be... even with reading glasses, not sure if I could
see if any of the pins were bent... and as for taking off the cover, what would I be looking for?


----------



## RGauld

stoyan1508 said:


> hello, did you find a solution to your issue?
> also, would it be possible to get a copy of the Flash Eraser file please?





stoyan1508 said:


> hello, did you find a solution to your issue?
> also, would it be possible to get a copy of the Flash Eraser file please?


no reply from anyone regarding the Flash Eraser utility... I still don't have it...


----------



## Kruginator

RGauld said:


> no reply from anyone regarding the Flash Eraser utility... I still don't have it...


I have a Flash Eraser for the D2. PM me and I'll email it to you.


----------



## AVfile

RGauld said:


> I'm afraid my eyes aren't what they used to be... even with reading glasses, not sure if I could
> see if any of the pins were bent... and as for taking off the cover, what would I be looking for?


Bob has already explained. Now it is up to you to grab the bull by the horns.


----------



## Soundsandbytes

Hope someone can help. I have been a longtime follower (I've owned an MRX700 for years), and just bought a used Statement D2. This is my first post/question pertaining to the D2, so here it goes.

Despite not having the remote, I have managed to make adjustments to the audio aspects of the D2, but I cannot find a way to enter the Video Adjustment Menu. I have searched for days, and all I've been able to find is "press and hold the 7 key on the remote until......". I cannot find any mention of being able to get to the same menu by using the front panel of the D2.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Soundsandbytes said:


> Hope someone can help. I have been a longtime follower (I've owned an MRX700 for years), and just bought a used Statement D2. This is my first post/question pertaining to the D2, so here it goes.
> 
> Despite not having the remote, I have managed to make adjustments to the audio aspects of the D2, but I cannot find a way to enter the Video Adjustment Menu. I have searched for days, and all I've been able to find is "press and hold the 7 key on the remote until......". I cannot find any mention of being able to get to the same menu by using the front panel of the D2.


The answer to this is actually in the Manual (page 65): Press and hold "Display" on the Front Panel for about 3 seconds. The Front Panel "Display" button is in the middle of the right hand set of buttons along the bottom of the D2's Front Panel.
--Bob


----------



## Soundsandbytes

^^^
Bob, thanks for the prompt response! OK, I am aware of that setup menu, and have been using it to setup thus far. I must have some setting somewhere that is preventing me from seeing the Video setup that pertains to the test patterns, video adjustments to gamma, etc. So I take it from this response, that is the only setup menu the D2 has?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

Soundsandbytes said:


> ^^^
> Bob, thanks for the prompt response! OK, I am aware of that setup menu, and have been using it to setup thus far. I must have some setting somewhere that is preventing me from seeing the Video setup that pertains to the test patterns, video adjustments to gamma, etc. So I take it from this response, that is the only setup menu the D2 has?


The "Display" button is used to bring up the Video Source Adjust menu, which is the menu that contains the test patterns. The Video Source Adjust menu is only visible on screen (not on the Front Panel display).

If you can't bring up that Video Source Adjust menu at all, or if scrolling right in it to the Patterns tab doesn't allow you to select and see test Patterns, then it is likely you have the Video Output settings (found in the regular Setup menu) set to something your display can not handle.

Try changing the Video Output settings to 480p or 720p.
--Bob


----------



## gjwAudio

Hi Fellow Anthem Enthusiasts - it's been a very long time since I've had to ask for help here, but I'm hitting a brick wall with this problem. Maybe there's a Wise Owl who can point me in the right direction.

I have a D2 that is "suddenly" refusing to display the OSD when I enter the Setup menu. Curiously, the info overlay shows up OK whenever the volume is adjusted, or the Status info is invoked. Using the original remote (only mildly tacky to the touch), I press and hold the Sub/Setup button, the TV shows the subwoofer adjustment overlay, and then when it should switch to the Setup Menu, nothing appears on the TV screen - completely blank.

The D2's display window shows the normal Setup info, and the processor will accept changes - it's just the OSD is missing in action.

I did try a "Load Factory Defaults", followed by "Load User Settings" and the problem still persists.

BTW, this D2 is running on v1.33 firmware (and has been for years). I have a Beta version - v1.47f - which I've never installed, and hesitate to jump from "official" to "beta" firmware unless there's solid technical advice to do so.

Can anyone recall this problem from the past, and what was done to solve it ?

Thanks so much for any help you folks can offer.


----------



## MitchPope

gjwAudio said:


> Hi Fellow Anthem Enthusiasts - it's been a very long time since I've had to ask for help here, but I'm hitting a brick wall with this problem. Maybe there's a Wise Owl who can point me in the right direction.
> 
> I have a D2 that is "suddenly" refusing to display the OSD when I enter the Setup menu. Curiously, the info overlay shows up OK whenever the volume is adjusted, or the Status info is invoked. Using the original remote (only mildly tacky to the touch), I press and hold the Sub/Setup button, the TV shows the subwoofer adjustment overlay, and then when it should switch to the Setup Menu, nothing appears on the TV screen - completely blank.
> 
> The D2's display window shows the normal Setup info, and the processor will accept changes - it's just the OSD is missing in action.
> 
> I did try a "Load Factory Defaults", followed by "Load User Settings" and the problem still persists.
> 
> BTW, this D2 is running on v1.33 firmware (and has been for years). I have a Beta version - v1.47f - which I've never installed, and hesitate to jump from "official" to "beta" firmware unless there's solid technical advice to do so.
> 
> Can anyone recall this problem from the past, and what was done to solve it ?
> 
> Thanks so much for any help you folks can offer.


I've had that before. I re-flashed the firmware and that fixed it for me.


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ What he said.
--Bob


----------



## gjwAudio

Mitch/ Bob

Thank you Gentlemen for your replies - I'll roll up my sleeves, break out the laptop and report back.

Cheers,
Grant
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2021-09-30 Report:

I reflashed my firmware to v1.47f - all went well until the video processor OSD step:










I dutifully clicked the retry button, the flash process reran from the top and failed at the same stage. Hmmmm.

A late afternoon call to Anthem Support confirmed the worst - this section of the video board has been known to die in the past -and- Anthem has none of these boards available. Curiously, it appears that the video board for the D2 and AVM50 share the same part number. Given the different capabilities of these two units I'm surprised to learn this.

There is an outside chance I may get my hands on an AVM50 as a parts donor. It was working "fine" in my home back in January of this year (2021) - including the OSD for the Setup menus.

The alternative to a scary transplant operation, is to content myself with the cumbersome 2-line display on the front of the D2 every time a change is required - and keep a full printout of the menu pages handy !

Perish the thought of giving up the stellar audio reproduction this Anthem delivers, when fed a quality input stream. The Horror, The Horror.


----------



## RGauld

I recently purchased an AVM50v 3D to replace my older AVM50.... Anyone know if there is a beta firmware available for it? It's currently running v3.10


----------



## AVfile

RGauld said:


> I recently purchased an AVM50v 3D to replace my older AVM50.... Anyone know if there is a beta firmware available for it? It's currently running v3.10


No


----------



## fmzip

My D2V developed an issue. Suddenly I noticed the right channel was not playing audio via balanced output. Plugged in a line level output instead of blanaced, music returned. Swapped cables, both balanced and RCA with the left channel, confirmed right channel was indeed having issues.

Switching the unit on and off, I can hear the right channel turn on for a split second, then there is no audio. It doesn't matter what the input is on, same issue. HDMI, balanced input, 6 channel Analog, optical input....same audio issue. HDMI video is perfect

The center channel started to lose audio as well. I can turn the unit off for the evening, in the morning, it will play fine for awhile. I really love my D2v, I'm just running a3.1 setup and I really don't have any need to upgrade. Does anyone stateside repair these units? Any thoughts on what may the culprit?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ First check the problem is not in your power amp. Temporarily cable the problem outputs of the D2v to known working inputs of your power amp.
—Bob


----------



## fmzip

Definitely not the amp as I have separate monoblock amps for each of the three channels....


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ It’s still wise to check as the problem may be on the output side of the amp (speaker wires shorted).

If that’s not it, the only other thing you can do yourself is re-install the firmware in the D2v.

As far as I know, only Anthem is set up to service these. 
—Bob


----------



## fmzip

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ It’s still wise to check as the problem may be on the output side of the amp (speaker wires shorted).
> 
> If that’s not it, the only other thing you can do yourself is re-install the firmware in the D2v.
> 
> As far as I know, only Anthem is set up to service these.
> —Bob


Thanks Bob. Would make sense if it was limited to one channel. Now that the issue wandered to the center channel, something is definitely up


----------



## gjwAudio

Spoiler: previous report (2021-09-30)






gjwAudio said:


> Mitch/ Bob
> 
> Thank you Gentlemen for your replies - I'll roll up my sleeves, break out the laptop and report back.
> 
> Cheers,
> Grant
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 2021-09-30 Report:
> 
> I reflashed my firmware to v1.47f - all went well until the video processor OSD step:
> 
> View attachment 3180868
> 
> 
> I dutifully clicked the retry button, the flash process reran from the top and failed at the same stage. Hmmmm.
> 
> A late afternoon call to Anthem Support confirmed the worst - this section of the video board has been known to die in the past -and- Anthem has none of these boards available. Curiously, it appears that the video board for the D2 and AVM50 share the same part number. Given the different capabilities of these two units I'm surprised to learn this.
> 
> There is an outside chance I may get my hands on an AVM50 as a parts donor. It was working "fine" in my home back in January of this year (2021) - including the OSD for the Setup menus.
> 
> The alternative to a scary transplant operation, is to content myself with the cumbersome 2-line display on the front of the D2 every time a change is required - and keep a full printout of the menu pages handy !
> 
> Perish the thought of giving up the stellar audio reproduction this Anthem delivers, when fed a quality input stream. The Horror, The Horror.






UPDATE As of today (2021-10-28):
The video board transplant went successfully ! D2 settings were saved using the Anthem utility (and painfully recorded in a spreadsheet for redundancy). Physical swap is/was pretty straightforward. On first power-up the HDMI output is unusable (declared as 240p on the D2 info panel). Firmware flash brought everything into alignment, and restoring of previously saved settings... WORKED !

All good, in that OSD display for the Settings menus is back. Phew, a close call - and beverages were quaffed in celebration.

HOWEVER, *it was a mistake* to use the beta v1.47f D2 firmware . Two undesirable things I have now noticed about this FW version:

1) the audio sample rate indication for PCM input is stuck at 48 kHz - no matter the actual incoming rate (ie: 44.1, 96) the info display shows as 48. I frequently check this (doesn't everybody ?) and so this bug is annoying.

2) output muting fails (sporadically) when the audio input format changes, resulting in a moderate click/thunk being sent to all the speakers. Not good, for obvious reasons.

During the first re-flash-after-transplant, I used the official v1.33 FW, but the process halted with a fatal error. It would seem there's a check in the update program preventing rollback to a previous FW level. A little pondering of the issue, and I then tried the same v1.47f to reanimate the newly installed video board. That worked.

This is a call out again to the Wise Owls monitoring this thread: *is there any way to roll back the firmware on the D2 ?* Does somebody have a modified updater program that permits this ?

Having come this far saving the machine from the scrap heap, it would be a shame to live with these bugs for the rest of its (hopefully) long life.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

To answer to the inevitable question "Why v1.47f BETA"... the nice fellow at Anthem Support told me it should work OK. This was done before the transplant was contemplated. More fool me... OK+a few beta bugs is more like it.

On the Good News side:
While the case was open and we were poking around, I couldn't resist giving all the ribbon cable connections a treatment with Stabilant22a. Yea... glad I did, because a small but discernible improvement in audio playback is what I got for my trouble. Two clicks on the _Better Knob_. Completely subjective I know, but "_in my system, in my room..._" you know the rest. For those who care about this, give it a try.

Thanks for playing along, and I _r-e-a-l-l-y_ hope there's a way to undo my Rash Flash.


----------



## fmzip

fmzip said:


> Thanks Bob. Would make sense if it was limited to one channel. Now that the issue wandered to the center channel, something is definitely up


You were actually correct Bob...loose 12v trigger wire


----------



## Bob Pariseau

^ Suddenly! As if by Logic!


--Bob


----------



## fmzip

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ Suddenly! As if by Logic!
> 
> 
> --Bob


Really odd...I even bought a new preamp which is how I finally figured it out!


----------



## RGauld

Anthem AVM 50v 3D recently purchased works like a charm, however when ever I go into the settings menu, instead of that nice blue background, mine shows as kind of purple or pink...
Any ideas / thoughts as to why this is?


----------



## Bob Pariseau

RGauld said:


> Anthem AVM 50v 3D recently purchased works like a charm, however when ever I go into the settings menu, instead of that nice blue background, mine shows as kind of purple or pink...
> Any ideas / thoughts as to why this is?


This is a type of HDMI handshake failure. The Anthem and your TV are confused as to whether RGB or YCbCr data format is in use at the moment. You get either Shocking Pink or Ghastly Green depending on which way around the confusion happens.

Check / upgrade your HDMI cabling.

Note that handshakes and actual audio/video transmission use the HDMI cabling two different ways. So it is possible to have bad handshakes and still get “good” video.
—Bob


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## stratfordguy

Just bought an old D2. Two things here. Cannot seems to make Dolby True HD 96/24 work as PCM out of a PS4. It sees it correctly but sounds all mess up like it is not decoded ok. The other thing is that I do not have the original box of my arc kit (no cd) and my mic serial starts with a 1 which is probably an old one and I am unable to download the cal file for it. Anthem/paradigm where no help on both issues. Suggest me to use my PS4 with the codec which would lead me to Dolby Digital Core and told me to buy another arc mic kit. Any help and contact there that would know more would be very helpful. Thanks 😊


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## Bob Pariseau

stratfordguy said:


> Just bought an old D2. Two things here. Cannot seems to make Dolby True HD 96/24 work as PCM out of a PS4. It sees it correctly but sounds all mess up like it is not decoded ok. The other thing is that I do not have the original box of my arc kit (no cd) and my mic serial starts with a 1 which is probably an old one and I am unable to download the cal file for it. Anthem/paradigm where no help on both issues. Suggest me to use my PS4 with the codec which would lead me to Dolby Digital Core and told me to buy another arc mic kit. Any help and contact there that would know more would be very helpful. Thanks 😊


The original D2 only accepts HDMI LPCM up to 5.1 channels, so if you are playing a Dolby TrueHD 7.1 track the player will need to down-mix to 5.1 (Rear channels folded into Side channels). This should happen automatically (it's part of the HDMI spec), but the PSn players are, umm, weird, and I forget if they have any setting that could screw this up.

There is an oddball setting in the original D2 called HDMI Channel Map. This was intended for use with HDMI LPCM audio from DVD-Audio discs, where the incoming HDMI LPCM channels might be in other than the normal order. If what you are hearing is audio apparently coming out of the wrong speakers, check that you haven't accidentally got this Channel Map set differently from the default.

Buying a replacement ARC mic kit may be your only option if you can't get the original ARC install disc from the seller. Alternatively, the seller may still have the ARC license and calibration files (2 separate files) on his computer, and can zip them up and email them to you. The two files will be in the same folder in Windows Program Files where the ARC application got installed. They will have names made up mostly of numbers. The numbers are the Serial Number of the D2 combined with the Serial Number of the ARC mic. If you can get them that way, simply copy them into the folder where The ARC application itself got installed in Windows Program Files.

Note that if you _DO_ manage to get the install disc, you should _NOT_ use it to install the ARC application on your Windows PC. The installer on that disc will not work with modern versions of Windows. Download the ARC application installer file from the Anthem web site and use that instead -- adding the above two files yourself.
--Bob


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## stratfordguy

Bob Pariseau said:


> The original D2 only accepts HDMI LPCM up to 5.1 channels, so if you are playing a Dolby TrueHD 7.1 track the player will need to down-mix to 5.1 (Rear channels folded into Side channels). This should happen automatically (it's part of the HDMI spec), but the PSn players are, umm, weird, and I forget if they have any setting that could screw this up.
> 
> There is an oddball setting in the original D2 called HDMI Channel Map. This was intended for use with HDMI LPCM audio from DVD-Audio discs, where the incoming HDMI LPCM channels might be in other than the normal order. If what you are hearing is audio apparently coming out of the wrong speakers, check that you haven't accidentally got this Channel Map set differently from the default.
> 
> Buying a replacement ARC mic kit may be your only option if you can't get the original ARC install disc from the seller. Alternatively, the seller may still have the ARC license and calibration files (2 separate files) on his computer, and can zip them up and email them to you. The two files will be in the same folder in Windows Program Files where the ARC application got installed. They will have names made up mostly of numbers. The numbers are the Serial Number of the D2 combined with the Serial Number of the ARC mic. If you can get them that way, simply copy them into the folder where The ARC application itself got installed in Windows Program Files.
> 
> Note that if you _DO_ manage to get the install disc, you should _NOT_ use it to install the ARC application on your Windows PC. The installer on that disc will not work with modern versions of Windows. Download the ARC application installer file from the Anthem web site and use that instead -- adding the above two files yourself.
> --Bob


All is working fine except True HD 96/24 even in stereo so pretty sure that is not it  As for ARC, previous owner did not even used it so no files whatsoever. Will probably try it with a generic serial just for fun.


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## RGauld

Bob Pariseau said:


> This is a type of HDMI handshake failure. The Anthem and your TV are confused as to whether RGB or YCbCr data format is in use at the moment. You get either Shocking Pink or Ghastly Green depending on which way around the confusion happens.
> 
> Check / upgrade your HDMI cabling.
> 
> Note that handshakes and actual audio/video transmission use the HDMI cabling two different ways. So it is possible to have bad handshakes and still get “good” video.
> —Bob


I'm using the cables you recommended... Monoprice certified HDMI cables throughout....


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## MitchPope

RGauld said:


> I'm using the cables you recommended... Monoprice certified HDMI cables throughout....


If it is like the D2v, you should be able to go into the video setup menu and force a colour space, one of the options should get rid of the magenta background.


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## AVfile

RGauld said:


> I'm using the cables you recommended... Monoprice certified HDMI cables throughout....


Check all video output configs 1-4. If the RGB/YCbCr setting is not the same for all you may trigger the problem simply by scrolling through the menu. 

Also find out which setting your TV prefers.


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## RGauld

AVfile said:


> Check all video output configs 1-4. If the RGB/YCbCr setting is not the same for all you may trigger the problem simply by scrolling through the menu.
> 
> Also find out which setting your TV prefers.


I'm going to assume if it's set to "Auto", it should be changed to "YCbCr"? (I have an older Samsung 50" LED...)


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## Bob Pariseau

^ I’d recommend doing that. Setting a specific output format simplifies the HDMI handshake — more likely to work.

Some older TVs have a setting for whether the TV expects to receive RGB or YCbCr. If your TV is like that (uncommon these days), set the TV to expect YCbCr too. 
—Bob


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## RGauld

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ I’d recommend doing that. Setting a specific output format simplifies the HDMI handshake — more likely to work.
> 
> Some older TVs have a setting for whether the TV expects to receive RGB or YCbCr. If your TV is like that (uncommon these days), set the TV to expect YCbCr too.
> —Bob


There are 2 YCbCr settings... not sure which one to use... YCbCr 4:2:2, or YCbCr 4:4:4


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## AVfile

RGauld said:


> There are 2 YCbCr settings... not sure which one to use... YCbCr 4:2:2, or YCbCr 4:4:4


You can try both without harm and see what works best for your TV. To find out the “optimum” setting requires YOU to do some research on your TV.


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## Bob Pariseau

RGauld said:


> There are 2 YCbCr settings... not sure which one to use... YCbCr 4:2:2, or YCbCr 4:4:4


YCbCr 4:4:4 is the "normal" choice.
--Bob


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## AVfile

Does anyone have instructions for installing the “3D upgrade” kit?

I may need to swap HDMI boards from my 50v 3D to a backup unit D2v (assuming they both use the same board). I have all the software, just need the hardware instructions.


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## neb04

AVfile said:


> Does anyone have instructions for installing the “3D upgrade” kit?
> 
> I may need to swap HDMI boards from my 50v 3D to a backup unit D2v (assuming they both use the same board). I have all the software, just need the hardware instructions.


Hi AVfile, just saw your request. Just in case you still need it, here it is.


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## illini_skn

All,
I was able to purchase a Statement D2 (not D2V) and it is a serious improvement over my Anthem 20. The issue is that it did not come with the ARC system. I notice that there are a number of ARCs available on the popular auction site. However, I can confused on which one to purchase. I see many ARC-1M packages as well as the older ARC-1. There is a huge price difference between the two. Would either work with the D2 or do I have to purchase the more expensive ARC-1? Thanks in advance.


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## Kensmith48

Either one won't have the microphone that will work with your D2. The microphone serial number has to be matched with serial number of the D2. I'd contact Anthem and see what can be done. Then there is a Keyspan adapter that has to be used also, which connects to the D2.


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## Bob Pariseau

^ I don’t believe the ARC app for Windows which works with the D2 actually enforces the unit serial number match any more. You still need the calibration file that matches the serial number of the mic, though. 
—Bob


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## illini_skn

Bob Pariseau said:


> ^ I don’t believe the ARC app for Windows which works with the D2 actually enforces the unit serial number match any more. You still need the calibration file that matches the serial number of the mic, though.
> —Bob


Thank you. I did contact Anthem and they said to purchase the ARC from the auction site. It looks like you can download the calibration file from the website. Still confused on the difference between the ARC-1 and the ARC-1M.


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## AVfile

illini_skn said:


> Thank you. I did contact Anthem and they said to purchase the ARC from the auction site. It looks like you can download the calibration file from the website. Still confused on the difference between the ARC-1 and the ARC-1M.


Ask the seller for the serial number of the mic first so you can confirm that. However if it’s a complete kit it should also come with the calibration file on a CD-ROM. 

Back in the day it was just called ARC. When the MRX line came out they may have started this ARC-1 / 1M business. Anyway you can ignore the latter.


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## Kensmith48

I have both. The D2's is just called ARC. The one that came with my MX-520 is ARC -1M


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## Bob Pariseau

^ If you DO get the original ARC install CD-ROM, do _NOT_ use that when trying to install the ARC app on your Windows PC. 

The installer file on that disc will not work with current versions of Windows.

Instead, download the installer file from the Anthem web site and use that to install the app.

The mic calibration file on the disc will work just fine, but it is probably easier to get that with the installer file from the Anthem support page. 
—Bob


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## zardwin

Bob Pariseau said:


> ou can get them that way,





Bob Pariseau said:


> The original D2 only accepts HDMI LPCM up to 5.1 channels, so if you are playing a Dolby TrueHD 7.1 track the player will need to down-mix to 5.1 (Rear channels folded into Side channels). This should happen automatically (it's part of the HDMI spec), but the PSn players are, umm, weird, and I forget if they have any setting that could screw this up.
> 
> There is an oddball setting in the original D2 called HDMI Channel Map. This was intended for use with HDMI LPCM audio from DVD-Audio discs, where the incoming HDMI LPCM channels might be in other than the normal order. If what you are hearing is audio apparently coming out of the wrong speakers, check that you haven't accidentally got this Channel Map set differently from the default.
> 
> Buying a replacement ARC mic kit may be your only option if you can't get the original ARC install disc from the seller. Alternatively, the seller may still have the ARC license and calibration files (2 separate files) on his computer, and can zip them up and email them to you. The two files will be in the same folder in Windows Program Files where the ARC application got installed. They will have names made up mostly of numbers. The numbers are the Serial Number of the D2 combined with the Serial Number of the ARC mic. If you can get them that way, simply copy them into the folder where The ARC application itself got installed in Windows Program Files.
> 
> Note that if you _DO_ manage to get the install disc, you should _NOT_ use it to install the ARC application on your Windows PC. The installer on that disc will not work with modern versions of Windows. Download the ARC application installer file from the Anthem web site and use that instead -- adding the above two files yourself.
> --Bob


Dear Bob

I am struggling with ARC running on my D2, it would be great if you point out what I doing wrong.
Since My ARC installation CD is missing, I downloaded the ARC3.0.2 from Anthem website. Anthem's technical support kindly mailed me Mic calibration file, but told me no one knows about the "ARC license file"(what the file name would it be?)
I tried to run ARC without ARC license file. ARC can find and turn on D2 correctly but pop up an error message "Failed to pre-open calibration file(s). (code=0x01)" then turn off D2. Is it because of no license file exist?

Appreciate if any input. 

My hardware:
Mac book pro running WinXP through VirtualBox VM
(tried backup D2 config. through USB to RS232 successfully, the linkage should be ok)
Statement D2 with ARC upgrade kit


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## Bob Pariseau

zardwin said:


> Dear Bob
> 
> I am struggling with ARC running on my D2, it would be great if you point out what I doing wrong.
> Since My ARC installation CD is missing, I downloaded the ARC3.0.2 from Anthem website. Anthem's technical support kindly mailed me Mic calibration file, but told me no one knows about the "ARC license file"(what the file name would it be?)
> I tried to run ARC without ARC license file. ARC can find and turn on D2 correctly but pop up an error message "Failed to pre-open calibration file(s). (code=0x01)" then turn off D2. Is it because of no license file exist?
> 
> Appreciate if any input.
> 
> My hardware:
> Mac book pro running WinXP through VirtualBox VM
> (tried backup D2 config. through USB to RS232 successfully, the linkage should be ok)
> Statement D2 with ARC upgrade kit


You no longer need the license file. Once Anthem started bundling ARC with all the hardware models, they removed that requirement.

As for the calibration file, likely the problem is that you are putting it in the wrong place. Over time, Anthem changed the folder where the installer places the ARC app.

Go into Windows Program Files and hunt around a bit to find the folder containing the installed ARC app's .exe file. Copy your mic calibration file into that same folder.
--Bob


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## zardwin

Bob Pariseau said:


> o Manual and if things are fixed then you should hear different frequencies of test tone when you adjust Test Frequency. If things a





Bob Pariseau said:


> es itself over the USB cable as an "ARC-1" microphone -- *AN





Bob Pariseau said:


> You no longer need the license file. Once Anthem started bundling ARC with all the hardware models, they removed that requirement.
> 
> As for the calibration file, likely the problem is that you are putting it in the wrong place. Over time, Anthem changed the folder where the installer places the ARC app.
> 
> Go into Windows Program Files and hunt around a bit to find the folder containing the installed ARC app's .exe file. Copy your mic calibration file into that same folder.
> --Bob


Hi Bob

Thank you for the explanation! Seems I don't need to bother Anthem guys for licensing file again. 
I'm pretty sure the calibration file should be in the right place because the installation program copy it into Windows Program Files folder automatically (I put .cal file into the same folder with setup file as requested in read me)
I found an interest thing, the error message changed after I renaming the cal. file.
Maybe it's the file name issue? (My ARC is upgrade kit not bundled with D2, so different serial no. to D2)

I've tried below combination but not success yet.
mic serial_D2 serialAnthem.cal --> Fail to pre-open calibration file
mic serial.cal --> Fail to find microphone calibration file for unit = D2 serial
mic serial_D2 serial.cal --> Fail to load calibration file (Invalid security file)
D2 serial_mic serial.cal --> Fail to load calibration file (Invalid security file)


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## MitchPope

zardwin said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> Thank you for the explanation! Seems I don't need to bother Anthem guys for licensing file again.
> I'm pretty sure the calibration file should be in the right place because the installation program copy it into Windows Program Files folder automatically (I put .cal file into the same folder with setup file as requested in read me)
> I found an interest thing, the error message changed after I renaming the cal. file.
> Maybe it's the file name issue? (My ARC is upgrade kit not bundled with D2, so different serial no. to D2)
> 
> I've tried below combination but not success yet.
> mic serial_D2 serialAnthem.cal --> Fail to pre-open calibration file
> mic serial.cal --> Fail to find microphone calibration file for unit = D2 serial
> mic serial_D2 serial.cal --> Fail to load calibration file (Invalid security file)
> D2 serial_mic serial.cal --> Fail to load calibration file (Invalid security file)


I'm not sure if this will help you or not, but I just checked my ARC install (I put it into a Dropbox folder, and ran it from there, so I knew everything was in one place.) and I have a mic-SN_D2v-SN.cal file and a mic-SN_D2v-SNAnthem.file file in that folder.


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## zardwin

MitchPope said:


> I'm not sure if this will help you or not, but I just checked my ARC install (I put it into a Dropbox folder, and ran it from there, so I knew everything was in one place.) and I have a mic-SN_D2v-SN.cal file and a mic-SN_D2v-SNAnthem.file file in that folder.


Hi Mitch

I don't have the second file, I think it's the licensing file? 
Do you use the the ARC v3.0.2?
It would be great if you can remove the second file and run ARC, 
if show the same error message as I do, then the licensing file is still requested.

Thanks~!!


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## MitchPope

zardwin said:


> Hi Mitch
> 
> I don't have the second file, I think it's the licensing file?
> Do you use the the ARC v3.0.2?
> It would be great if you can remove the second file and run ARC,
> if show the same error message as I do, then the licensing file is still requested.
> 
> Thanks~!!


Sorry, I don't have the D2v set up any longer. I was using 3.0.2. I would try a clean install to a USB drive or online drive and try to run ARC from there. It may just be that it doesn't like the virtual machine. I think I tried using Parallels, but ended up using my PC work laptop.


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## zardwin

MitchPope said:


> Sorry, I don't have the D2v set up any longer. I was using 3.0.2. I would try a clean install to a USB drive or online drive and try to run ARC from there. It may just be that it doesn't like the virtual machine. I think I tried using Parallels, but ended up using my PC work laptop.


Hi Mitch & Bob
Thanks for your kindly help & suggestions.
After an earthquake for all my CDs, I finally found my ARC installation CD.
It contains mic-SN_D2-SN.cal file and mic-SN_D2-SNAnthem.file. 
I copied these 2 files into ARC v3.0.2 setup folder then ran setup, and it worked!!!
The conclusion is, for an old model, licensing file is still needed even for the latest version ARC software.
Thanks again for all of your help


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## Svene

Hello, new to this forum. I am thinking on getting a used D2v for my system. Have searched this thread for some info but still have a few questions. For reference I only have front L+R and center speaker. No surround or subs.

1. I have tried different AV-receivers through the years and found that the room-EQ never gives a good result for stereo (music). So I always run the amps with «pure direct» mode for stereo listening. I can not find any detailed info on this for the D2v.Is there no «pure direct/pass through» mode that bypasses the surround circuitry (ARC) and only sends the audio signal via the DAC? The input signal will either come from HDMI or digital optical input.

2. If there is an audio-bypass mode, can it be toggled on/off easily?

3. If there is no audio-bypass mode, will the ARC-flat setting be the closest thing to use?


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## Orbitron

Svene: ARC can be set to On or Off in the menu settings.


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## Svene

Good, thanks for the quick reply.


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## gjwAudio

@Svene 

If you wish, there is "Analog Direct" mode, which bypasses all DSP and connects your analog 2-ch source directly to your main L/R outputs. In effect, you are using a simple, pure analog signal path, bypassing the internal ADC stage that all analog signals usually go through for further processing.

In your case - if you are injecting digital signals to begin with - then yes, you can disable ARC as Orbitron mentions above.

Download the manual and spend some time to understand the options (perhaps before you make your purchase). The D2/ D2v processors are _very_ capable audio performers.

Recently I discovered how good the internal DACs can perform when fed a HQ digital signal. Putting a MUTEC MC-3+USB re-clocker between my 2-ch digital source(s) and the D2 made a huge improvement in the sound in my room. In my case, the AES/EBU connection into the D2 sounded best, compared to S/PDIF on either coax or optical. This move saved me the folly of chasing after a "better" DAC.

For MCH input (over HDMI) I was surprised and gratified to get a marked improvement when I switched out the old, humble Monoprice Redmere cable for a "99.99% pure silver" HDMI cable from AliExpress. WOW... I will say no more .

Good Luck and I hope this helps.


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## Svene

So I ended up with a used MRX 310. Spent the last few days trying to get everything set up properly. This is not an east amp to configure! I can not get video over HDMI from my TV-box via the 310. I just get audio and a black picture… Even went out and got a new 4k-highspeed special HDMI cable. No video… tried every setting there is but no luck. My Chromecast Ultra works just fine on the same inputs I have tried. So there is nothing wrong with the amp. Ended up with HDMI from the TV-box to the TV-set and then optical out to the 310 for sound. ARC out from the TV gave no sound. Tried every setting there is..

Sound quality on stereo music is just excellent. This is levels above the Yamaha I have. Tighter and more punch in the bass region. Midrange is more open and the tweeter stopped screaming. Only using it as a pre though so I have not tested the internal amps. I am pretty sure some of the improved sound is due to the higher level on the pre-out from the MRX-310 (compared to the Yamaha). So I can drive the poweramps better without the pre hitting the roof and starting to get nosiy and distorted. The Yamaha only puts ot 1.2-1.4V max while the MRX-310 is in the 3V area.


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## barhoram

Long time D2V Owner. 

My 7 channel Sherbourn amp just died, and I am looking a replacement. I found a good deal on another 7 channel amp, but it does not have balanced inputs. RCA only. 

Will I need to re-run ARC if I change over to a new, non balanced AMP?


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## Bob Pariseau

barhoram said:


> Long time D2V Owner.
> 
> My 7 channel Sherbourn amp just died, and I am looking a replacement. I found a good deal on another 7 channel amp, but it does not have balanced inputs. RCA only.
> 
> Will I need to re-run ARC if I change over to a new, non balanced AMP?


You should rerun ARC just in case the new amp has a different audio signature. The RCA vs Balanced won’t affect that, but XLR is 6dB hotter than RCA so your levels will be lower. And in particular the relative levels between mains and your Subwoofer will likely be off. 
—Bob


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## barhoram

Bob Pariseau said:


> You should rerun ARC just in case the new amp has a different audio signature. The RCA vs Balanced won’t affect that, but XLR is 6dB hotter than RCA so your levels will be lower. And in particular the relative levels between mains and your Subwoofer will likely be off.
> —Bob


Bob, As Always--thanks. It's going to be some time before I will be able to run ARC again....a couple of questions:

Sub does sound a little hot compared when it was connected via balanced. Its currently set at a level of -1db. Is there a ballpark adjustment to the sub level take into account the 6db difference until I can run ARC. 

I'm not sure i still have the PC i last ran ARC on. I know there is a mic calibration file. Is that downloadable from Anthem per the mic serial?


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## lthelipper1767

I recently purchased a pre owned D2V in immaculate condition. It came with all the required accessories as well. It is also up to date with the newest software configuration. After many trial and errors, I have finally worked out communication between the laptop and the processor and it comes up as recognized. However, once I run automatic (or manual for that matter) it comes up with an error that states it can not find the microphone calibration file. I am now stuck again. Where do I find this file and what is the process to enter it ? I tried putting the serial number in for the file on the mic calibration download tab and it does not seem to work properly. Any help would be enormously appreciated.


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## Bob Pariseau

lthelipper1767 said:


> I recently purchased a pre owned D2V in immaculate condition. It came with all the required accessories as well. It is also up to date with the newest software configuration. After many trial and errors, I have finally worked out communication between the laptop and the processor and it comes up as recognized. However, once I run automatic (or manual for that matter) it comes up with an error that states it can not find the microphone calibration file. I am now stuck again. Where do I find this file and what is the process to enter it ? I tried putting the serial number in for the file on the mic calibration download tab and it does not seem to work properly. Any help would be enormously appreciated.


What does "not seem to work properly" mean? Did it not find a calibration file for you?

If so, get in touch with Anthem Tech Support. It is possible the mic you were given with the used D2v is a newer version of the ARC mic that can not work with the original ARC app (for the D2v).

Do not use the disc that originally came with the D2v to install the ARC app. It won't work with newer versions of Windows.

Instead use the OTHER link on that page you found to download BOTH the ARC app installer and the calibration file matching your mic's serial number (on the barrel of the mic).

Use Windows Add/Remove programs to delete your current ARC app install. Reboot the computer. Then use the install file you downloaded to re-install the ARC app. The installation process will also move the mic calibration file where it needs to go (in the same folder where the ARC app gets installed).

Reboot again (always a good thing to do with Windows after you install or uninstall stuff).

Run the ARC app, and when you go to do a Measurement it will list the mic calibration files it finds (in the app's program folder) and ask you to select which one matches your mic.
--Bob


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